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IZLAND "SIANPORD dVNIOR^VMVERSIlY
GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL ADVERTISER.
Just pubUahed, in Two Volumes royed 800.,/aQ-iound eloA, mth ddbortUe
heraldic hoardsyjprice £1 le.
The Historical Atlas.
VOL. I.
ATLAS ARD JUDEX.
VOL. IL
VOTES TO AOCOMFAITT ATLAS AID ^ALTTICAL UDEX.
148 pages.
LIST OF VAPa
Map
Ungland (Britannia),
Romans.
nnder the
2. Bootland, nnder the Bomans.
3. Qallia (Boman Period).
4. England (Saxon Period).
5. Scotland (Saxon Period).
{France, North Part (Saxon-Norman
Period).
Ireland (Tndor Period).
7. England, and part of Scotland (Nor-
man and Plantagenet Period).
8. Eorope (Norman and Plantagenet
Period).
9. Europe, during the time of the
Cmaades.
10. France (Norman to Tudor Period,
illuatrating the French and
English Wars).
11. England, and part of ScoUand
(York and Lancaster Period).
12. England (Tudor Period).
13. ^Europe, during the time of the
14. / Befoimation.
15. Scotland (Tudor Period).
16. England (Stuart Period).
17. Scotland (Stuart Period).
18. Ireland (Stuart and Brunswick
Period).
Map
19.\Eurq)e (1600 to 1714), including
20. / Thirty Years' War.
21. World, showing DisooTerics from
XV. to XVI. CJentury.
22. England (Brunswick Period).
r Europe, from 1715 to 1830, illns-
23. trating the Ware of the French
24. Revolution, and Wars of Na-
poleon.
25. Scotland (Brunswick Period).
26. North America, illustrating the
Conquest of Canada and the War
of Independence.
27. Europe (Central), at the height of
Napoleon's power, 1812.
28. Indian Empire, from its foundation
in 1757 to 1870.
29. Part of Buasia, to illustrate the
Crimean War and the operations
in the Baltia
30. Central Europe, illustrating late
Continental Wars, 1848-71, in-
cluding recent changes on
Fraaoe.
81. World, showing British Posses-
sions and Dependencies.
82. Turkish Empire (1877 to 1878).
33. Turkey in Europe, Cyprus, etc.
(1878).
34. Europe in 1878.
Index to Geographical Names.
W. & A. K. JOHNSTON,
EDINBURGH; xm 6, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON, EC.
A
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ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.
VOLUME THE FOETY-NINTR
1S79.
EDITED BY THE ASSISTANT-SEOEETAEY.
LONDON:
MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
212771
FBOrrEO BY VnUJAM CIX>WES AND 80X8, LIUITED,
RAlirOBO STBEBT AXD CBABIXO CB<M$.
( »i )
CONTENTS OF VOL. XLIX.
PAOB
CouQcil Beport, May, 187U, and Balance-Sheet for 1878 t
List of Council, Officers, Honorary and Honorary Corresponding
Members, and Fellows xvit
List of Public Institutions, &c., to which copies of the ' Journal ' and
' Proceedings * are presented cxvii
Individuals to whom the Royal Premiums, &c., have been awarded .. cxx
[K.B. The Aatbon are alone responsible for the contents of their respective paper*.]
AltTICLES. PACK
1. — Itineraries of the Second Khedivial Expedition : Memoir explaining
the New Map of Midian made by the Egyptian StafT-ofQcers. By
Richard F. Bubtom 1
2. — A Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa. By R. F. Bubtos 151
3. — An Account of the Country traversed by the Second Column of the
Tal— Cho'tia'li Field Force in the Spring of 1879. By Lieut.
R. C. Temple, f.b.o.8., m.b.a.8,, &c., Bengal Stafif Corps ; lately
attached to the 1st Goorkha Light Infantry 190
4. — The Modifications of the External Aspects of Organic Nature pro-
duced by Man's Interference, By Professor George RoLiiESTos,
F.B.8., Oxford 320
5. — Notes upon some Astronomical Observations made in Kordofan and
I^rfur. By Major H. G. Pbout, Corps of Engineers, Egyptian
General Staff 392
<3. — Zeno's Frislanda is Iceland and not the Fa3roes. By Admiral
Ibmimoeb 398
7. Zeno*s Frislanda is not Iceland, but the Fieroes ; an Answer to
Admiral Irminger. By R. H. Majob, f.s.a., Secretary b.g.b. .. 412
a 2
( iv )
FAGB
8. — ^Approximate Determioation of Positions in South- Western China.
By Gr. CoLBOBNE Baber 421
Index
484
ILLUSTEATIONS.
L BuBTOH .. .. Land of Uidian iofuce 1
2. Tejiplk .. .. Tal—Cho'tia'li Route, from Candahar to India „ 191
3. Pbout .. .. Eordoian and Darfur „ 393
4. Ibmikgeb .. Iceland „ ZW
1879. **\-
EEPOET OF THE COUNCIL,
Bead at the Anniyersabt Meeting on the 26th May.
The Council have the pleasure of laying before the Fellows
the customary Annual Beport on the financial and general
condition of the Society : —
Members. — The number of Fellows elected during the past
year (ending April 30th, 1879) was 170, besides two Honorary
Corresponding Members. In the previous year, 1877-8, the
total elections of Fellows numbered 187. In 1876-7 the
number was 292, and in 1875-6, 266. The losses in the past
year have been, by death 80, by resignation 54, and by default
of subscription 34, making the net increase for the year, two.
In the year 1877-8 the net increase was 49 ; in 1876-7, 138 ;
in 1875-0, 149 ; and in 1874-5, 202. The Society has also lost
by death three Honorary Corresponding Members.
Finance. — As will be seen by the annexed Balance Sheet,
the total net income for the financial year ending 31st De-
cember, 1878 (exclusive of balance in hand), was 8124Z. 10*., of
which 6017Z. consisted of entrance fees and subscriptions of
Fellows. In the previous year, 1877, the total net income was
7950/. Is. lid., and the amount of subscriptions, &c., 6099?.;
in 1876, 8611/. 11«. 8d. and .7109/. lU. The amount of total
net income just stated for the past year included a legacy of
540/. from the late Admiral Sir George Back. A legacy of
500/. formed also part of the stated income for 1877.
The net expenditure for the past year (exclusive of invest-
ments and balance in hand) was 6361/1 9s. Qd. ; which includes
fTi ■'-.' '"'Royal Geographical Society.
a grant oC.fiQW. to the A f dam Exploration FiuiJ. TLe net
expenditJj'ro^m 1877 was 51140/. 17a-. Ik/.; in 187(), 0870/. IS,*. Id.,
and in ISTS, 508.1/. As. \{\il The sujii uf ^JOOOZ. was invested in
^ConsoIJS dnrlug the ycur,
^Ije Finance Committee of the Council have held, as usual,
lylorilhly MeeLiugs during the year, supervising the accounts of
tlijc -.Society. Tht- Annual Audit was held on the IGth of April
•■."last, the Auditors heing, on behalf of the Council, Sir Uawson
■ W. Kawaon and Sir Ilcnry Burkly ; and on behalf of .the
■ Fellows at large^ Sir Charles Nicholson, Bart., and S, P. Low,
I Esq. Tho cordial thanks of the Council and Fellows are due
to these gentlemen for having freely devoted their valu;il>le
time to this important task. At the end of their hibours the
Auditors drew up tho following Report to tlie Council : —
** The Auditors appointed for the examination of the Accounts
" of the Koyal Geographical Society for the year ending 31st
" December, 1878, beg to report that they have examined the
" Balance Sheet submitted to them, and compared it with tlie
" Cash Book, Bankers' Book, Petty Cash Book, and other books
" of account kept by the Society, and have verified the Balance
" in the Bankers' Pjiss Book, checked the entries in the Cash
*' Book, and examined all the voucliers for payments made, ami
" that they have found the same to be correctly stated, and
" Buflficiently vouched.
*• They have also bar! produced to them a letter from the
" Chief Accountant of the Bank of England, and from Messrs.
" Cocks, Biddulph, and Co., Bankers, showing that the folhiw-
*' ing investmenta were standing to tho credit of the Society on
" the 31st December, 1878 :—
£ t. (T.
" India 't per cent. Stock . . . . . . , . . . lOtiO 0 0
" Great Western Eailway A\ per cent. Debenturo
♦' Stock . . . . 1800 0 a
" London and North-Westem Railway 4 per cent,
" Debenture Stock lOOCt 0 0
" North-Eaatem Railway 4 per cent. Debenture
" Stock . . . . . . 4000 0 (>
" Great Indian Peninsula Railway Guaranteed
" 5 per cent. Capital Stock 40OO 0 0
s.
d.
0
0
0
0
G
4
Report of the Council. vii
£
" Ittarch Exchequer Bills 1000
" Caledonian Railway 4 per cent. Preference
" Stock, No. 1 2000
" Consols (Lambert Donation) 52b*
« Consols '3142 15 10
" The Subscription Kegister, showing the sums payable by
" the Fellows of the Society, has been duly kept up, and the
** arrears outstanding at the close of the year were 1517/. Of
" this amount the sum of 192Z. is irrecoverable, and the Auditors
*' include the balance of 1325/. in the assets of the Society as
" worth 612/. 10«.
** The Investments and Assets of the Society on the 31st
" December, 1878, exclusive of the Map Collection and Library,
« amounted to 37,101/. 16^. 9d.
*' The Auditors have much pleasure in certifying that the
" accounts, books, and vouchers have been so kept as to render
" their duties much lighter than usual, and they feel bound to
" record their appreciation of the great assistance they received
" from the Chief Accountant.
" Rawson W. Rawson,
"Henry Barkly, V j /7v
« Charles Nicholson, ' ^«^«°**^-
« S. P. Low,
« 2l8t April, 1879."
VUl
Royal Geographical Society.
Receipts.
BALANCE-SHEET
1878.
£ (. d.
£ •. <L
Ditto
IC 7 1
Balance in Bankers' hands Slat Deo. 1877'! 2 240 17 0
Cdedocting Cheque not presented) / '
Ditto Aocoontant's
Subteriptioiu .*— >
For the current year ..
Paid in advance
Airean
Entrtmee Fees
Life Compontiotu
Subtcriptiofu jmi in emt
Legacy bj Admiral Sir Geoi^ge Back .. ..
Parliamentary Grant
Jtoyal Premium
Amt 0/ £%op and Cellars
PMieatione, Sale of, and AdTertiBements ..
Dividends .- —
North-Eastem BaUway 4 per Cent. Debenture\
Stock 10002./
India 5 per Cent. Stock lOOOZ.
Oreat Indian Peninsula Bailway 5 per Cent.\
Stock 4000L/
Great Western Bailway 4} per CenL\{
Debenture Stock 1800L/I
London and North- Western Bail way 4 per\|
Cent Debenture Stock 10002./
Exchequer Bills lOOOZ.
Caledonian Bailway 4 per Cent Preference"!
Stock, No, 1 20001./
Consols 36692. 2«. 2d
2,257 4 1
3,820 0
0
522 0
0
594 0
0
4,936 0 0
531 0 0
*
550 0 0
74 2 0
540 0 0
500 0 0
52 10 0
140 0 0
196 5 8
39 8
4
49 3
4
236 3
4
75 7
8
39 8
4
24 12
0
78 15
8
CI 13
8
604 12 4
£10,381 14 1.
BEQIXALD T. OOCKS.
Trtanrwr.
Report of the Council.
iz
FOE THE YEAE 1878.
Expenditure.
1878.
£oiiw:— Taxes and Inaaranoes, Bepairs, Im-j
proTements and FDrnitnre, Coalf Gas and>
Watar-rates, &C. )
Ofiee : — Salaries and Gratuities, Stationery and)
Printing, Postages and Parcels, &c /
Xi^rary .-—Salaries, Books, ftc.
Map-Boom : — Salaries and Gratuities, ka.
MeeOngt ,
Sdentifie Purpotet Chrant : — Lecturers* Fee$, die.
JfoZnb and other awards
PublieaUoiu: — ^Printing Journal and Pruoeed-l
ings, liaps and Illnstarations, ftc /
Payment in error returned
Eiqpeditiotu: —
Donation to the African Exploration Fund .
JnoetfoieHte:— Furchaseof 8142Z.152. lOd. Consols
Bdlanee in Bankers' hands Slst Dec. 1878^
(excluding draft not presented) /
Do. Accountant's Do.
£ «.
d.
' £ >, d.
502 8 5
1,712 18 0
503 2 8
858 15 7
.. ..
285 6 0
175 0 0
106 12 0
1,742 12 8
25 0 0
.. -
500 0 0
8,000 0 0
999 13
0
20 11
7
1,020 4 7
£10,381 14 1
^vdiUd andfamd eomct, (A« 16M day </ AprO, 1879. RAWSON W. BAWSON, 1
CHA8. NICHOLSON, I .^{i,^
S. H. LOW, I ■^*^"^-
UKliB7 BARKL7, J
Royal Gcoffraphical Society.
Statbmekt showing the Ehjktpts and ExpENDiroaE of the Society from
the Year 1848 to the Slat Dec., 187S.
In 1856 ft Treasury Grant of
moot, for tbo East African
Expedition recciTed.
In 1 860 a Treasury Grant of
25001. for tlic East African
Expedition received.
In 18G9 Legacy of Mr.
Bcujnroin Oliveini, 1500/.
17«. 1(/.
In 1870 Legacy of Mr. Al-
fred Davis, 1800^
In 1871 Legacy of Sir Ro-
derick Murchison, 1000/.
In 1872 Amount of Sir.
Jumcs Yoang'd Gmnt for
the livingatono Congo
Expedition, 2000f,
In 1874 Amount of 5tr,
Jiimcs Young'* Gmnt for
the Livingntono Congo
Expedition, 104H. 14».
In 187G Special Parlia-
luentary Grant of 3000/.
towatdii the Expenses of
tbo CamcroD Expedition.
In 1877 Donatinn of 5001. hj
Mr. C. J. Lambert in car-
rying Out the provisions of
hid futher'a will.
In 1878 Legncy of Adiioirul
Sir George Back, 510/.
Tev.
CMh
vrilhin the
Ve»r.
Cftih
AmonnU
Inrcsted in
Fund*.
Amonnu
iDTcsted ia
Foods; actDii!
£xpeDdiIurt!
£ 5.
«f.
£
*.
d.
£ ». tt.
1848
696 10
5
.^
755 6 1
1849
778 3
0
,.
1098 7 6
1850
10.36 10
5
,,
877 2 10
1851
1056 11
8
,,
906 14 7
1852 '
1220 3
4
, ,
995 13 1
1853
1917 2
6
^ ,
1675 6 {>
1854
2565 7
8
, ,
2197 19 3
1855
2584 7
0
, ,
2636 3 I
1856
8372 5
1
533
lo'
0
2814 8 1
1857
8142 13
4
378
0
0
34S0 19 9
1858
3089 15
1
, ,
.,
2944 13 6
1S59
3471 11
S
950
0
0
3423 3 9
1860
6440 12
1
460 17
6
5406 3 7
1S61
4792 12
9
1358
2
6
3074 7 4
1862
4659 7
9
1389
7
6
3095 19 4-
1863
5256 9
3
1837
10
0
8655 4 0
1864
4977 8
C
1796
5
0
3647 7 10
1865
4905 8
3
IMl
5
0
4307 4 5
1866
.1085 8
3
1028
13
0
4052 15 0
1867
5462 7 11
1029
0
0
3943 17 4
186S
5't91 4
U
18.57
3
9
4156 17 10
1869
6S5S) 10
0
2131
5
0
4C4G 0 S
1870
8042 6
1
S802
6
0
3845 10 t}
1871
6637 3
7
1000
0
0
372G 4 4
1872
8119 7
9
1999
4
6
5871 13 2
1873
7761 18
10
2015
1
8
6697 12 6
1874
ST-^a 'y
10
499
0
0
7876 2 3
1875
7934 15
10
2002
7
6
5683 4 10
187G
ll,«ll 11
8
. ,
, ,
6870 13 1
1877
7950 1
11
2538
2
0
8940 17 11*
1878
8121 10
0
3000
0
U
6301 9 6
• TJiis sum iticluik-i the Special Parliatnontary Gmnt transferred to
Camtrou E.X[i«litiou Fund in Feljruiirj-, 1877.
Report of the Council. xi
STATEMENT OF ASSETS— Slst December, 1878.
Freehold House, Fittings, and Faniitnie, estimated I '
(exclusive of Map Collections and library in- > .. 20,000 0 0
sored for 10,0001) )
InTestments (amount of Stock), as detailed in the\ , . ^«> „ „
above Beport of the Auditors / " i3,*o«' ^ ^
Anears due on December SI, 1878 .. £1517
Less, irrecoTerable .. .. 192
£1325
Estimated at .. 612 10 0
Balance at Bank 999 13 0
„ in Accountant's hands 20 II 7
1,020 4 7
Totul £37,101 IG 1>
PuUicafions. — A new form of publication of the * Proceedings '
of the Society was commenced in January of the present year,
the old * Proceedings ' terminating with the 22nd volume. The
new series is a monthly publication, containing besides the
chronicle of the proceedings of the Evening Meetings, numerous
maps and a record of Geographical events throughout the
world, together with notices of new books and maps published
in various countries. The numbers have hitherto been issued
with punctuality on the 1st of each month, and at the end of
the year the twelve parts will form a large volume, a complete
Index being issued as soon as practicable after the last number.
Although attended by a considerably increased expense, the
Council have felt assured from the commencement that the
new publication would meet with the warm approval of the
Fellows. The expense is counterbalanced to a larger extent
than was originally estimated, by receipts from advertise-
ments and from sales to the public, upwards of 800 copies
being subscribed for by persons who are not Fellows of the
Society.
Expeditions ; Grants of Instruments to Travellers. — ^A second
grant of 500Z. was made during the year 1878 to the African
Exploration Fund. — ^Instruments at a total cost of 357Z. 18*.
have been supplied to travellers as follows : — Mr. Keith
Johnston (for the East African Expedition of the African
Exploratiou Fund), a complete set, value 170Z. ; 3Ir. Henry
Forbes (for liis journey to Celebes), iustrumeuts, to the value
of 07. ; Bfr. Simons (for the Exploratiou of the Sierra Nevada
of Sautft Martba), iustrumeuts, to the value of 1 "j/. ; J[r. Comber
{Expeditiou to tbo Cougo), iustrurucuts, to the value of r>7Z. ;
1)t. Mullens (for Luke Tanganyika)^ iustrumeuts, to the value
of 101/. ; Captiu'u A. H. Markham, r.n. (voyage to Nov* Zemblu),
instruments, value 5/, IS*. The iustruraents lent to Mr. Craven
(I'^ust Africa) iiud Lieut. Cougreve (Paraguay) have been re-
turned into store, on the termination of the journeys of these
travellers.
Annual Grant for Scientific PurjKtses. — The science lectures
appointed by the Committee charged by the Council with the
admiuiiitratiou of the annual grant of MOl. for scientific
purposes, have been continued during the past year ; but only
a l>ortion of the grant, viz. 1 75?., was expeudcHl. The following
gentlemen were cliosen to deliver the three lectures for the
Session 1878-9 : — Professor A. Geikie, subject, ' Geographical
Evolution ' ; Professor Bolleeton, subject, ' The Mmlifications of
the External Aspects of Organic Nature produced by ]\fan'B
Interference'; and J. liall, F.iis., subject, ' The Flora of the
European Alps and its connection with that of other regions of
the Earth.' Tlic largo MS. Map of Equatorial xVfrica, with
Bibliographical list of authorities, the compilation of which was
outnisted by the Committee to the well-known geographer,
Mr, Raven"»tein, is milking steady progress.
Library. — U41 books aud pamphlets have beeu added to the
Library during the past year ; 473 (including aU the pamphlets)
being donations, and IGS purchased. Besides these, and
without reckoning such publication* of general interest as the
' Athenajum,' «fec., 1102 separate parts or numbers of periodicals,
* Transactions,' iVc, have been received (including those obtained
by gift in or towards completion of defective series), many of
ivhich complete annual or other volumes.
136 pamphlets and small works have been put into covers on
the Society's premises, and 263 volumes have been bound
during the past year.
I
Report of the Council. xiii
The sniu of 136/. ITs. 5<2. has been expended in purchasing
books, and the farther sum of 87/. 0«. Qd, in binding.
Among the more important accessions are: — Qaimard's
* Voyage en Laponie ' and * Voyage en Island * ; and Du Petit
Thouars's 'Voyage de la Venus,' with Atlases complete ; Btosset's
* Description' and * Histoire de la Georgie' ; Texier's * Description
de TAnndnie ' ; Cartas de Indias (presented by the Conde de
Toreno, through H.E. the Spanish Minister); Vander Aa's
Collection of Sea and Land Journeys in the East and West
Indies, in Dutch, 27 vols, (presented by C. R. Markham, Esq.) ;
Juan and XJlloa's * Observaciones Astronomicas y Phisicas ' (pre-
sented by J. P. Gassiot, Esq.) ; Sir J. Maimdevile's * Voiage ' ;
G^rritsz's * Detectio Freti Hudsoni ' ; Bruce's * Annals of the
East India Company*; Heeren's Political and other Works;
the continuation of Burgess's ' Archaeological Survey of Western
India,' and Bice's ' Mysore and Coorg,' with many other official
publications referring to India (presented by Her Majesty's
Secretary of State for India) ; * Encyclopaedia Britannica,' 9th
edition, vols. viii. and ix. (presented by Messrs. A. and C.
Black) ; ' (Eavres de Champlain,' by Laverdiere ; Wild's * At
Anchor * (presented by Messrs. Marcus Ward and Co.) ; a
collection of the chief works referring to Arctic Voyages (pre-
sented by the Rev. H. Back) ; a collection of Dutch writings by
Professor Veth on the Indian Archipelago (presented by the
Author;, per P. Bicker-Caarten, Esq.) ; a collection of Geo-
graphical Addresses by the late Sir Roderick Murchison
(presented by Kenneth Murchison, Esq.); Kanitz's *Donau-
Bulgarien ' ; Paz Soldan's * Diccionario Geografico del Peru,'
with various writings on South America, by VicuHa-Mackenna,
Baimondy, &c. (presented by SeHor M. F. Paz Soldan) ; the
completion of Sir H. Lefroy's * Memorials of the Bermudas '
(presented by the Author, per Messrs. Longman) ; Fouque's
' Santorin et ses Eruptions * ; Thomson's * Through Cyprus with
the Camera ' ; the current reports and other publications of the
U.S. Geographical Survey under Professor F. V. Hayden (pre-
sented by him) ; various publications of the Egyptian General
Staff (presented by General Stone) ; the continuation of the
Memoirs and other publications of the Geological Survey of
India (presented by the Indian Government, per Dr. Oldham) ;
the continuation of vol. iii. and the whole of vol. iv. of Eeclus's
Geographie Universelle (presented by the Author) ; and all
as yet published of St. Martin's ' Guographio Universelle.'
The Library continues to be much consulted by Fellows of
the Society and officers of public departments. Reference is
also constantly being made to it by students, authors, and
artists connected with publishing establishments.
Majp-Room. — The revision of the classified Register of Maps,
and the preparation of an alphabetical catalogue of all the 3Iaps
in the Society's Collection, with an index of authors, were
tlecided upon at the Council Meeting of June 3rd, 1878 ; since
which time considerable progress has been made in this work,
and the new catalogue is being pre]>ared with a view to
its being subsequently printed.
The Coimcil have voted 50/. per annum, for four years, to
be expondoil in putting the bituliugs of the Society's Atlases in
good order, and the shelves on which the Atlases are kept have
been covere<l with sliding sashes for their better preservation.
Tlie ofler of Messrs. Limd and Bloekley, to provide the Maj)-
Room with a Synchronizing time current has been accepted
by the Council, and an hourly mean time current is now
received in the Map-lloom. A case containing a set of
traveller's instruments (such as the Society recommend) has
been placed in the Map-Koom.
Great interest has been evinced by the Fellows of the Society
and the general publie in the Maps of the Seat of War in
Afghanistan and South East Africa. Public officers, students,
and the public have made frequent use of the Blaps in the
Society's (Collection. The large Maps have been lent during the
year, for the purjMjse of ilhistrating many Geographical lectures
in different parts of the kingdom.
The accessions to the Map-Room Collection since last
Anniversary comprise 408 3Iaps and Charts on 1426 Sheets;
24 Atlases containing 790 Sheets ; and 132 Photographs. Of
these 50 Maps and 4 Atlases have been purchased. 5 new
Diagrams (Cyprus, South East Africa, Soutliern IJsambara,
part of Midiau, Cameroons Mountains, and Lake Nyassa) have
been constructed on the establishment, and several others have
■
Report of the Council.
Xt
>eea corrected. Three large diagrams (Afghanistan, Africa, and
Asia) have been purchased. The accessions of the presunt year
are in excess of those oF last year by 17 Maps und 19 Atlases
on 564 Sheets.
Among the most imiwrtant additions to the ]\rap-Room
are : — 308 Sheeta of the Ordnance Survey of the British Isles on
I various scales (presented by the First Commissioner of Works,
through the Director-General of the Ordnance Survey). 201
Charts of the British Admiralty, 1 Atlas of Index Charts,and an
! Atlas of Pilot Charts for the Atlantic Ocean (presented by the
Lords Commissioners of the Admirnlty, through the Hydro-
pmpher). 95 French Admiralty Charts (presented by the
I Dep6t des Cartes et Plans de la Marine). 4 Sheets of United
' States Charts, and an Atlas of Meteorological Charts of the
Pacific (presented by Captain S. K. Franklin, U.S.N., Hydro-
grapher to the Bureau of Navigation). 178 Sheets of the
various Indian Government Surveys (presented by Her
j\[ajesty's Secretary of State for India, through the India
Office). 47 Sheets of Maps, including 21 Sheets of Major
Wilson's Map of Afghanistan (presented by the Quartermaster-
General). 12 Sheets of the Topographischer Atlas der
Schweiz (presented by the Chief of the Federal Survey,
Berne). 1 Atlas over Kongeriget Denmark (presented by
Rear- Admiral C. Irmiuger), 5 Sheets of the Kaart over
Jydland (presented by H,E. the Danish Minister), Geological
and Topographical Atla« accompanying the Keport of the
Geological Expedition of the Fortieth l*arallel, U.S.A. (presented
by Clarence King, u.s., Geologist-io-charge). Geological and
Geographical Atlas of Colorado, and an Atlas of the Geological
Survey of Wisconsin (presented by Dr. S. V. Hayden). Map of
the Turkestan Military Province, constructed by the Turkestan
Military Topographical Department. Map showing tlie Ex-
plorations of H, M. Stanley (presented by Edward Weller,
JBsq.) Map of Madagascar (presented by Dr. Mullens).
16 Sheets of MS. Tracings of the Nile Surveys (presented by
General Stone). Adolf Stieler's Hand Atlas, Parts i. and ir.
new edition (presented by Herr Justus Perthes). 15 Sheets of
Maps, including two General Slaps of Australia, and four of
the Colony of Victoria (presented by the Honourable Graham
xvi Royal Geographical Society.
Berry, Premier of Victoria). 1 Atlas of the Soutbem portion of P
the Province of South Australia (presented by Sir A. Blyth). I
120 Photographs taken in Damaraland and East Namaqualand,
by Mr. W. C. Palgrave (presented by Sir Henry Barkly). A
MS. llDtp of the Nile between Assouan and Wady Haifa (pre-
sented by G. Kilgour, Esq.) 40 Sheets of the Special-Earte
der K. n. Osterreichisch-IFngarischen Monarchie. 17 Sheets
of Norwegian Surveys (presented by Lieut.-Colonel Sejersted).
17 Sheets of French Grovemment Survey (presented by the
D^p6t de la Guerre).
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.
patron.
HEB MAJESTY THE QUEEN.
Ttc(«yatran.
HIS ROTAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCE OF WALES, K.G^ K.T., K^^ QJCJB^
ills R07AL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH. K.G., K.T^ G.CJS.1., Itc, be.
COUNCIL.
(ELECTKD 3UT MAT. 1880.)
Abcrdabe, The Right Hon. Lord.
Galtos, F., E«q., F.RJ3.
Rawuhson, Major-Gen. Sir Heuy C.
K.C.U., F.R^.
Aux>CK, Sir Rntherfbrd, K.C.B.
Bamclt, Sir H,, G.C.M.G., K.C.B.
Ellis, Sir Barrow H., K.C.S.I.
Etasb, Capt. F. J., R.N., C.B., F.R.S.
Cnauraur.
CkMXB, Reginald T., Ewj.
Cntsttes.
HoiTQHTOM, Lord, D.C.L., F.RJS. | LOBBOCK, Sir J., Bart., M.P., F.R.S.
SitattwAts.
MaBSHAM, Clements R., E«q., C.B., F.R.S. || MaJOB, Richard Henrj, Em)., F.S.
^foreign Secrttaig.— Rcbsell, Lord Arthur, M.P.
Prmbcrs of (Dotmcil.
Ball, John, Esq., F.R.S.
BarrON, Sir T. Fowell, Bart.
CuST, Robert Needham, Esq.
FsBaDgaOK, Jamee, Esq., F.R.S.
FOBSTTH, Sir T. Douglas, K.C.S.I., C.B.
Fbeshfield, Douglas W., Esq.
Goownr-AuBTEK, Lieut.-CoIonel H. H.,
FJt.S.
LaoaHTOK, J. K., Esq.
Lbfbot. Gen. Sir J.H., R.A., K.C.M.G.,
F.R.S.
Mbbewether, Col. Sir W. L., K.C.S.I.,C.B.
MiLHE, Admiral Sir Alex., Bart, G.C.B.
Naees, Capt. Sir G. S., RJT., K.C.B.
OmiAMNET, Admiral Sir Erasmus, C.B.,
F.R.S.
Pellt, Col. Sir Lewis, E.C.B., E.CJ3.I.
Reat, Lord.
RiQBT, Migoi^eneral C. P.
Silteb, S. W., Esq.
Stbachet, Lient.-Gen. R., R.E., C.S.I.,
F.RA
Temple. Sir Richard, Bart., G.C.S.I.
Thdillieb, Lienb-Gen. Sir H. E. L,,
R.A., CSJ., F.R.S.
Vebhbt, Sir H. C, Bart., M.P.
^mtisat SmxtBis uvUi (BltUor of Snrasactions.— bates, h. w., Esq., F.L.S.
C^f Clerk TXtlii ^Otmtant.— Jokes, £. Duffield, Esq., M.A.
librarian.— Rte, e. c, Esq., F.Z.S.
SP^ap Cttrator.— €OLES, John, Esq., F.R.G.S.
}^mhtX9,—Mttm. COOXB, BiDSULPH and Co., 43. Charing Cross.
TOL. ZLIX. b
H. I. M. Dom Pelro 11., Emperor of Bmxil.
H.M. Dora Luir I., King of Portugal.
II.M. Leopold II., King or the Bi'lgimis.
H.I.H. the (iraud Unite Constaiitine, I'res.
of the Imperial Geogroptviuii] Society of
tit. retersburg.
HONORARY CORRESPONDING.
Abich, Dr. Win. HermaDn, St. Fet«rsburg
ALMEIDA, Dr. Candido ilendea de.
UAi.ni, 51. Eugfene do Paria
Uastian, I'r. Adolph Iin»in«n
HtiROilAUS, l^rof, Heinnth .. .. llerlin
liuiiMKisrEa, Dr. HerniiLnn, DueniM Ayin
Chaix, Prof. Paul Geiievn
COELLO, Don Kranciaoo .. .. Bladrid
C'OliA, Signer Guido, 17 Via Pi-ovidenu,
Turin
CORVO, Hia Excellency Seahor Joa& de
AndrAde .. .. .. .. Lisbon
Dana, Profeaior Jamea D., New iisTcn,
Counectjcut
DovRriUEB, M. Henri .. .. Paris
Faidhrrbe, General L France
KiQAM^RE, CocnmaDder Jorge' Cemr,
Lisbon
FORCJUIAMMER, Prof. P. W Kiel
Fremont, General.
GiOLlOLi, ProC.CavaliereEjirico H., Florence
Gordon, Colonel C. G., r.k„ c.u.
GoTOT, IVof.,LL.D., Prinoclon, New.Ieisev
IIauslad, General .. .. .. Vienon
Ha YUEN, Dr. F. V Wn*biiiglou
HocilSTETTER, Dr. Ferdinand toji. Pies,
imp. Geo^ntph. Society of .. Vientu
Irminokr, Ucas'AdmiriJ C. L. C, r.d.k.,
Copenhngcn
Jaksex, Captain M. H., D.n.N., The Hngniv
Hollaad
KENNELLT. D. J. Esq., F.R.A.8.
KiEPERT, Dr. H. .. .. .. .. B«rliD
Lkal, JoMi d» Silra Mendas, Portu{raea«
Sig. .. Piirit
LiNAHT, PaUw Aleiaodria
LtJTKE, Admiral Count K.B.. St. Petersburg
Malte-Bron, M. V. A., Hon. Sec. Geogr.
Soc. of Paris
MlBZA Malooh KhaW, His Eicelleary.
Kbort, Chevalier Cristoforo, (Joutiiula San
Fraoceso) di Paola, Ko. II , P. 3 Torino
NoRDESSKtOLn, Raron A. E. .Stockholm
NoiTHY, \'Jee-Admiral Baron dc la Iton-
ciiii", le .. .. Paris
NuUAit PACitA, His EicellencT .. Cairo
OaTiU< Sacxek, HaroD Fr. von der,
.St. Petcnbtti^
Paz Soldan, Don Maiimo Keli|>e Lima
PiiiUPiT, Dr. Uodulfo Ammnil" ,. Chili
Platen, His Escelleucj Count.
Kaeiavd, Alfred (Pres. Geogr. Soc. Mv-
se)lle»).
Raimo.ndi, Don Antonio .. ., .. Lima
llictmiOFEN, Baion von (Piej. Derlin
Geog. Soc.)
RtlKPELL, Dr. E., For. M.L.B. ..Frankfort
Salas, Don 8aturnino, Pre*. Topogr. Vt-
part., Argeoliue [{epublic, Buenos Ayrea
SciiEBZER, Dr. Karl too.
ScnUTLKB, ElJOENE, Sec, v. i>, Legntion,
Coustautiuople
SoMtLAR, M»jor-General the Cher, dc,
Wiener NeLisladt Vienna
Stanley, Henry M., Enq.
Stone, Gen. C M. P„ Chief of the General
Stuff, Egyptian Army Cairo
Stkuve, Prof. Otto .. St. Petersburg
TciiniATCHEf, M. Pierre de .. Florence
TsciiODi, Herr T. T. von .. .. Vinoa
Vamdsry, Professor Arminius .. Peath
Vasooncellos e Silta, Dr. Alfre<1o Cari-
miro de Kio de Janeiro
Veth, Professor (Pres, of tlie Dutch
Gro^ph, Soc.) I.eyden
Wheeler, Lieut. G. M. Waahingtoo, U.S.
Whitney, J. D., F.8<|. (SUte GeoiogiM for
Califoi-nia),Can]bndgc,MaHnchujetts;,DjS.
WiLCZEK, Count Vienna
Ziegler, M. J. M. .. .. .. IWlo
( XIX )
FELLOWS.
(July 1880.)
EXPLANATION OP THE LETTEBS ATTACHED TO THE NAMES.
Prbb. =: presoit or post President.
C = present or past member of ConnciL
e - Gold Medal.
C = Testimonial of any other description.
0 = School prize medal.
p = anthor of a Paper published in the ' Journal,' or ' Proceedings ' of the Society.
* = Life Compounder.
TMTOf
1876
1878
1868
1863
1859
1851 i
1876
1865
1878 ,
1872
1861 I
1874'
1873
1873
1878'
1877
1873 1
1879
1876
ISliO
1876
1859
1860
VOL.
XLIX.
Abbott, Major-General Saunders. 2, Peters/tain-tcrrace, Queen' it-gate, S. W.
Abbott,* William, Esq. 10, Tok«nh<nue-t/ard, E.G.
Abbott,* Wm. S. D., Esq.
Abdy, Rer. Albert, H.A. St. Martin's, Stamford; and United University Cl>d>, S. W.
Aberdare, Right Hon. Lord, f.b.8. 1 , Queen' s-gate, S. W, ; and Dvffryn, Aber-
dare, Olamorganshire.
Abinger, W. F. Scarlett, Lord. Guards' Club, S.W.
Abrahams, Isi-ael, Esq. 56, Suasell-square, W.C.
Acheson, Frederick, Esq., C.E. Woodm Bridge, Co. Wicklouf.
Adand, Rer. Chas. Lanrford. Jioyal Orammar-scliool, Colchester.
Adand, Dr. Henry, r.R.S., D.C.L., m.d, Oxford.
Adand, J. Barton Arundel, Esq. Mount Feel, Canterbury, New Zealand. Care
of A. Mills, Esq^ 34, Hyde-park-gardens, W.
Adand, Sir Thos. Dyke, Bai-t., h.p. Killerion, Exeter ; and Athenwum Club.
Adand, Dentenant \V. A. Dyke, e-n. Care of Dr. H. Acland, Oxford.
Adams, Fras. 0., F<sq., C.B. (Secretary of Embassy). Paris.
Adderley, Augustus J., Esq. 46, Park-street, Grosvenor -square, W.
Adeane, Capt. E. S., E.S. 28, Eaton-place, S. W.
Adkins, Thomas, Esq. Bishopton, Stratford-on-Avon.
Adye, Lieut.-General Sir J. M., k.c.b. Boyal Military Academy, Woolwich.
Agar, A. P., Esq. Care of Messrs. Grindlay and Co., 55, Parliament-street, S. 11'.
Ainsworth,*W. F., Egq.,FJ.A. Ravenscourt-villa,New-road, Hammersmith, It'.
Aird, David Alfred, Esq. 2, Sussex-gardens, W. ; and 7, Fig-tree-ct., Temple, F.C.
Airlie, Right Hon. Earl of, K.T. 36, Cheshtm-place, S. W.
Aitchison, David, Esq. 5, Pemhridgc-square, Baysicatcr, W.
23 c
XX
^^^^^lAttq^^llow^^th^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
TCATOf
Klactim.
1873
Aitk*n, RoKsclI, E»q, 36, Gnat Qeorge-street, S.W.
1830
Albemarle,* Right Hon. Eurl of. 29J, Gronmor-aquare, W,; Quiddenham-
hall, Larlingford, Norfolk ; cmd Elvtdon-hall, Suffolk.
1862
PaES.p.
S. W. ; and AthctKium Club, S. W. i
1838
.\ldani,* William, Esq. Frichlty-hall, near Doncoiter, ^^M
18C5
1
1
Aldom. Joseph R. Esq., lf.A., PH.D. Salvay-htMatt Leylon, Euex. ^^|
1857
Aldrk'h, Cftptjiiij Robert D., R.N. TTiWrniVf-ronJ, Croydon, Surrey.
1830
p.
Aleacaiider, General Sir Jas. KJ., K.C.L.S., F.U.AJ3., r.E.S.u:., &.c. (14th Regt.>
CTnited Service CM, S. W. ; and Wetterton-hoHK, Bridge of Allan, X. B.
1873
Alexander, W., Esq. i
1874
P-
Alesandenon, Capu Carl. 25, Camden-strtet, N. W.
1870
Alford, Lewis, Esq. 79, Gloucester'terixux, Hyde-park, VT.
1880
Alford,* Robert G.. Esq. ffong Kong. Care of Rn. J. G. Alford, The Old
Deanery, Collegt-graen., Briitol,
1878
Altoon,* Jame*, E*}. Devonthire Club, St. James's, S.W.
1857
Allan, G. W., E»q. Moss Park, Toronto, Canada. Care of Major Aybner, 50,
Jermyn-street, S. W.
1871
Allcroft,* John D., Ejq. 108, Lancaster-gate, W.; ffariington, Middlfscz; and
Stokeaay, SAropsltire.
1874
Allen, C. F. R., Esq., H.M. Vioe-Coiua], Stuinghai. Cart o/ G. B. Allen, Esq.,
4, Paptr-baildings, Temple, E.C.
1864
Allen, C. H.. Esq. 1, Weit-hill, IlujhqaU,
187(1
P-
kWm,* Herbert J., Esq., H.M. Consul, Chinkiang. 10, The Korton, Tenby.
1873
Allen, John. Seymour, Esq. Woodfeld, Pembroke ; and Balliol College, Oxford.
1879
Almnck, Edward, Esq. King's College Hospital, Lincoln' i-inn, W.C.
1862
Almedo,* Emanuel de, Esq, \\, Hyde-park-gardens, \V. ^^m
Algtooe, John, Esq. Western-road, Fortls-green, K. ^l^^l
187tf
1877
Alt,* W. J„ Esq. 3, Holhnd-park-gwrdens, W. ; and T/mlched House Clvth,
St. James' t-ttreet, 8, W.
1874
Alucliul, Dr., U.A., F. It. HIST. 8. 9, Old Band-street, W.
187S
Ambler, Vincent, Esq., h.d. Colcille-ftouse, ColvUk-square, Bayswder, IV.
1874
Ames, Capt. Lionel Neville Frcderidc. 77i0 Hyde, Harpenden.
1875
Ameunej, Professor Antoniiis, r.R.A.B. 87, Seymour-strtet, Hyde-jMrh, W.
1880
Amherst, W. A. Tjssen, Esq., m.p. Dcdlmgton4iall, Norfolk ; and Brook-atrecl, W.
1854
A noons, J. S., Esq. 8, John^street, Adelphi, W.C.
1874
Anderson, Alex. Dunlop, Esq. Ardsheal, Ballachulii/i, Argyleshire. ^_
1874
Anderson, Geo., Esq., Deputy Inspector-General of Annj Hospitals ^""^^l
Sii' Charles iPGrigor and Co., Charles-street, S. W. ^^M
1871
Anderson, Sir Jnmes. 16, Warring ton-crescent, W. ^^H
1863
P-
Anderson, James, Esq. ^^^|
1876
Anderson, R., F.s\. 58, Lombard-street, E.C. ; and Hankow, China. ^^f
1876
?'
Anderson, Cnpi. S., U.K., c.SLO. Bone-Guards, Whitehati, S.W. ; and yuniiorj
United Service Clu>>, S.W. J
J
Royal Geographical Society.
XXI
1870 '
1873
1876
1858
1867
1866
1875
1877
1868
1875
1879
1872
1879
1873
1874
1858 !
1862
1876
1880
1W2
1870
1855
1858
1863 !
1867 •
1857 ,
I
1875
1875
1876 ,
1863 ;
1872!
1879 r
f
18^9
I
1
1877 !
Andenon, Wm. Jas., Eeq. Sana Souci, Newlands, near Cape Toum, Cape of Oood
Hope. Care of Meatrt. Sinclair, Hamilton and Co., 17, St. Helen't-place,
KG.
Andenon, General W. W. 18, Eaton-rite, Eating, W.
Andrew, Capt. Chaa. W. 286, Keimingion'^park-raiul, 8.E.
Andrew,* William P., E«q. 2fl, Bnjanston-sqiiarc, W.
Andrewa, G. H., Ewj. The Cedars, New Brentford.
Andrewa, John R., Esq. 14, Bnjiinston'iqfirire, W.
Andrtws, Thomas R., Esq., J.P. 36, Devonshire-place, W,
Andrews, Wm., Esq., c.E. Care of E. Andrewe, Esq., Strand'On-the-Giten^
CMswick, Middlesex.
Angaa, George F., Esq. 48, Mrland-iqiwre, BoUand-park, W.
Angier, F. J., Esq. 79, Gmotvhurch'sired, E.C.
Annesley, A. A., Esq. (H.M. (.Consul At M€vmion'), Care of W, B. Barrett,
Esq., 88, LansdowiUi-road, Ifottin^-Aill, Tf!
Ameli, Msartce^ Esq. Hanvver-sqiKire Club, Sanoeer-square, W.
Anfted, Geoi-g« L., Esq. Coquimbo, CkUi. Care of H. Q. Botesell, Esq., Z9,
King-street, Chet^pside, E.C.
Anstejr, George A., Esq. Windham Club, 8. W.
Antrim,* Wm. Roodal McDonnell, Earl of. Olenarm-oastle, Lame, Co. Antriat.
Arbothoot, George, Esq. 23, ffyde-park-gftrd^s, W,
Arbathnot, ljeut.-Col. George, E.U.A. S, iSBft^raus-pfacc, S. W.
Arbathnot, H u gh I,., Esq . 6 9, jETo ton-sqtitff-e, S, W.
Arbnthnot, William R., Esq. Flaitf-Aatch, East Orinstcud.
AnhiiM, Wm, Fredk. A., Esq. 3, Amershmn-road Putiiey, S. W.
Ardagh, Hnjor John C, C.B., R,e, Junior Uniied Sercice Club, S,\V.
Arden,* Richard Edward, Esq. East Burnhatn-fiouse, BuckinghamiAire.
ArmistKid,* l:ev Charles John, H.A.F.S.A., Utiited UnioertU;/ Club, S.W.
Armitage, Edward, Esq. 3, HaU-road, St. Joftn's-irood, N. W.
Annitstead,* George, Esq., m.p. Krfohpurk^ Errol, 2*'. B.
Armstrong, Sir Alexander, K.C.B., LUd., F.R.S,, Diiectar-Geueml of the Narj-
iS&lical rk'jBituietit, 2d, Albany, W. and Junior United Senice Club, S.W.
Arnold, Edwin, Esq., C.8.I. ' Daily Telegraph O^ce, Fleet-street, E.C.
Amot, Hon. David. Esidaie, Albunia, Griqvaland Wesl, Care of Messrs.
mn'ie |- JhtmeSj Mildmaij'-chiimbers, 82, Bishopegate-street-tcithm, E.C.
ArrowjmiUi, IE,, Esq. Chiltem, Victoria, Australia. Care of D. W. Kettle,
Esq., 53, Fleet-strrtt, E.C.
Arthur, Captain William, R.N. British Legation, Washington.
ArtiEgstall, Geo,, Esq., J.P. Latchford-house, Warrington.
Arundel, John Thomas, Esq. Care of Messrs. Houlder and Co., 146, Leadenlutll-
street, E.C.
Ashbee, Edmund Wm., Esq., faa. 17, Momington-crescent, Eegent's-parkr
N.W.
Ashley, Hon. Cecil. 24, Groscenor-square, W.
91 C 2
xxii
Xmrvt
List of Fellowt of the ^^H
1
1870
Ajihton,* Chu'Ies, Eix\. Delrow, Wat/ord. J
lb6i
A»hton,» H. J., Esq. Crotnn-court, Old Broad-ttreet, E.G. M
1873
Aibton,* CtpUin Samuel Tudor. 7, Faimeira-aquare, Brighton. ^^|
1853
Ashwelt,* James, Esq., U.A., F.a.s. 11, Broch-atrwt, Bath. ^H
11)30
Atkint,* John Pellj, Eiq., f.s.a. Bahted-plaee, near SmmuiaJit. ^^^
187i
Atkin»on, Alntnti, E«q. ^^1
1876
Atkinson, E. T., Accoantanfc^eneral. Allahabad, N.W.P., India. Cora of \
Miss Atkinson, 44, Church-road, St. Leonarda-on-Sea. 1
1870
1
Atkbuon. Willinm, Esq.. r.L.s., &c. 47, Gi>rdon-sqvare, W.G. ^^m
i8e»
AtlM, CbaHcs, Eiq. The Park, Ealing, W. ^^|
I860
AttweO, Professor Henry. Burws, S. W. ^^^
1859
C.p.
Auslcn, Colonel Henry H. Godwin (24th Foot, B«iigal Staff Corps). Junior J
Umted Servict Cl«b, S. W. J
1863
Aurtin, John G., Esq. 71. Ilarcowrt-ttrrace, S.W. J
1880
Ayliaer,* G. P. V.. E«q. Walworth-cajtU, Darlington. ^^1
1854
Ayrton, Right Hou. Acton S. J, Cowrtfield-g^irdsna, S.W. ^^M
187*
Baber, E. Colborne, Enq., H.M. Cons. Sen-., China. Care of Foreiijn-cfficc, S, W.
1866
Babington,* William, Esq. 7, LtfamiHgton-villan, Avion.
1876
Backler,* Hy. McL., Ewj. Vtmon-lumse, Lordihifh-lane, Duiwich, S.E.
1866
B»coii.» Geo. Washington. Esq. 127, Strand, W.C.
1864
?
Badger, Her. G«o. P. 21, Leamingtoiirroad-inllai, Weitbour7ic-p(trk, W.
1880
Bailey, Capl. F., R.E, Dehra DitH. ^
1878
Bailie, Alex. Cumming, Esq. Sorreyor-Genonil. DiamotuI Fields. ^H
1879
Baillie,* Kar. Lieut. Cha». W. Cart of the Hydrographio-office, Adtniro^^
S.W. 1
1857
B«illie» Major-Genenil John (Bengal Staff Coi-ps)- Care of Mesirs. Grin^oA
and Co., J'artiaiiicnt-street, S. W. 1
1872
Baillle, Capt. Wm. Muut*r. 43, Jforfolk-tquare, W. 1
1878
Bain, A. J. G.. E<iq. Ulaimaim, BMenabwijh, If. B. ^^fl
1879
Bain, David, Esq. St. Bridal Schools, Gretfilrget, Liverpool. ^^^|
1875
Bain,* Sir James, Knt. 2, Park-terrace, Glcugoto. ^^^M
1873
Baines, W. Mortimer. Esq. Bell-hall. York. ^^M
1878
Baker, Edwin, Esq. Bruce-castle, Tottenham. ^^^^M
1875
Bakar,* Geoi^ Eaq. 66, Mark-lane, E.G. ; and Sncue^rook, ^^^H
1861
B«k«r,* John. Eiq. ^H
1865
«.Cp.
Baker, Sir Sam. White, Pasha, F.a^. Sandford Orleigh, nr. Nmcton Abbot, Devnlum
1877
Baker, Hev. Sir Talbot Haatings B., Bart. Baitxton, near Blandford, Dorset. 1
1876
Baker, Colonel T. D., C.B. Army and Xavy Club, Pall-mall, S. 11', 1
1877
Baker, Rcr. Wm. 4, Claplon-siuare, Hackney, ^^^^M
1855
p-
Baker,* Major W. T. Junior United Service Cltib, S. W, ^^^|
1876
BaUwin, A. Chas., Esq. ^^^H
128 ^H
M
Royal Creographical Society.
xxui
1853
187«
1&60
1876
1873
1853
1873
1878
1880
1872
1874
1 1869
1879
1873
: 1870
; 1863
1835
1870
1862
1868
1871
1867
1870
j 1873
I 1875
i 1859
I 1867
1833
isn
1878
1863
1857
1879
C.p.
Cp.
I
Balfonr, Colonel David. B<dfmtr-ecutle, Kirkwcdl, N. B,
Balfoar, Frederick Henrj, Esq. Shcaighai,
Balfour, Gen. Sir George, R.A., s.c.B., h.p. 6, Ckvekmd-garderu, Hyde-park,
W. ; tmd Oriented Club, Banover-aquare, W.
Balfour, Jobn, Eaq. 13, Queen' a-gate-plaoe, S.W.
Ball, Arthur Edmund, Eaq. Tyne-vUla, TV Platt-Jield, Putney, S'.W.fOnd 7
and 8, Honey-lane-market, Cheapaide, E.C.
Ball, John, Eiq., r.B.8. 10, Sottthwett-gardens, South Keneiiigton.
Ball, John B., Esq. CariOtrooke-lodge, St. J<An'»-road East, Putney, S.W.
Balls, W. H., Esq. 20, Anerley-road, Aneriey, S.E.
Bancroft, CoL W. C. (16th R^). Barraakn, Fulwood, Preston, LancasJiire.
Bandini, His Highness Prince Giastiniani. Pome. Care of Messrs, Baring
Brothers attd Co., 8, Bishopsgate-street-within, E.C.
Banks, Henry B., Esq. 2, Bue Beavaxdlet, Baore.
Barber, Elijah, Esq. 50, Ella-street, Leeds.
Barber, Wm. Cambridge, Esq. Crossley Orphan Some and S<Aool, SavUe-park,
Halifax.
Barbour, W. Bojie, Esq. Springvale, Hilton-lane, Prestwich, near Manchester.
Bardiard, Francis, Esq. Horsted-place, Uckfield.
Barclay,* Charles Arthur, Esq. Hutfield-court, Nutjield, Surrey.
Barelaj, Hugh G., Esq. Ihorpe, Norwich.
Baiday, Wm. L., Esq., B.A. The Briars, Beigate, Surrey.
Barford, A. H., Esq., H.A. 1, ComioaU-terrace, Begenfs-park, X. W.
Baring,* John, Esq. Oakwood, Chichester.
Barkly, Sir Henry, O.C.M.O., k.cb. 1, Bina-gardens, South Kensington,
8.W.
j Barlee, Frederick Palgrave, Esq., CM.G. (^Gowmor of British Honduras). Care
I of O. Lawrence, Esq., 12, Marlhorough-road, Lee, 8JE,
I Barlow, Frederick Thomas Pratt, Esq. 26, Rutland-gate, S. W.
I Barnes, Robert, Esq., II.D. 15, Harley-street, W.
Bams,* John W., Esq. 18, Clarendon-place, Citadel-road, Plymouth, Devon.
\ BaiT, Edward G., Esq. 76, Holland-park, W. ; and 36, Mark-lane, E.C.
, Barrett, Benjamin, Esq. Albert-cottage, Framlingham, Suffolk.
I Barrett, Howard, Esq., M.R.C.8. 3, Tooistock-square, W.C.
'■ Barrington, George, Viscount, K.P. 19, Hertford-street, W.
Barnngton>Ward,* Mark J., Esq., H.A., r.Lja. (Her Majesty's Inspector of
Schools). Salwarpe-end, Droitwich ; and United University Club, S. W,
Barrow, John, Esq., F.B.8., F.S.A. 17, Hanover-terrace, Regent' s-park,
N.W.
Barrow, Reuben Vincent, Esq. Sydney-lodge, Croydon.
Barrow, Samuel, Esq.. jnn. Lome-house, Red-hill, Surrey.
Barry, Alfred, Esq. St. Bride's Office, 33, Mark-lane, E.C.
Bartholomew, John, Esq. 17, Chambers' -street, Edinburgh.
Bartlett, Edward J., Esq. St. Helen's, Cazenoce-road, Stamford-hill.
164
xxiv
List of Fellows of the ^^|
eiaoUia.
4
1862
P-
Burton, Alfred, Ei>q^ ii.D. Orimtal Club, W. ; and My»kyns, Ticehtirst, Eairk- 1
hurst. 1
1880
B»rtrnm,» Lient. George W., r.e. Bockltvtds, Tunbridge'tccllt. 1
lg37
Bateinaii,»Jaine«, Esq., F.U.S., F.L.s. 9, Uyde-park-fjaU South, S. W. ^^1
1870
BaUmon, John, Ea^. ^^H
1859
Batcman, John F., Esq., O.K., r.R.8. I6,0reat George-ttreet, Watmiutrr;
S. W.
1875
Bates. Major C. E. Care of Mean. Ormihi/ and Co., 55, PaHiamentstiwt,
S.W.
1873
BatiM, General Sir Hen 17, K.ca 2, Sussex-place, Hyde-park, W.
1879
Data, Rev. J. C, The Vicarnge, Castleton, near Manchetter, ^^™
18S«
Batewn-d«-Yiirljui^b, Geoi-ge, Eitq. HesliTigton-iiall, I'ork. ^^^H
1880
Batlejr, George, Esq. Fcrii-lHink, near Ilastinijs. ^^^M
1877
Bntt, Edward W.. Esq. 20, Great Wincf tester-street, E.C, ^^^
1873
Batten, Henry Howard, Esq. 11, Scarsdale-vUlas, Kensington, W.j aiKf 1
Junior Carlton Ciub, Patl-imlt, S. W. J
1866
BatUo. John U., Esq. 5, Afansten-terrace, Heavitree, Exeter. 1
1858
Baxeodnlc, Joseph H., l]a^. WorpUsdon, GuUdford. ^^1
1879
Uaxt«r, William f^lwin, Esq. 7, Chwnjh-roic, Stoke Newin/jton, N. ^^^k
1863
Boyley, H., Esq. Peninsutur and Oriental Co., Leadenhatt-slreet, E.C. 1
1873
Baylls,' Mftjor E. W. D. Guildford-villa, HUborough-crescent, Southsca, Uauis. J
1862
Bayly, Maj.-Gen. John, u.E., o.B. 68, PalmersUm-place, Edinburgh. 1
1872
•
Biiyn**,* A. Henry, Esq. 19, Castle-streai, Holbom, E.C, ^^H
1878
Bayuea, DontilJ, Esq., M.D. \h, Bridge-street, Canterlmrii. ^^|
1873
Baynea,* Wm. Wilberforee, Esq., D.L. Campbelton'houae, Croydon, ^^|
1868
BajntoD, Captain Edwnrd. Trqfnigar-lodge, Shirley, Southampton. ^^H
1874
Beach, SV. J., Etq. 50, Chun^-road, Kichmond. ^H
1874
Bcall, Geo., Esq., Secretary Local Murine Board. Liverpool, ^^H
1874
BwnJraoi*, N'athnniel St. B., Esq. 30, Great George-street, S.W. ^^|
1872
Bwtoii, Capl. John. 13, Palace-gardens-terraoe, W. 1
1854
Beaufort,* William Morris, Esq., r.&.xJS., r.t..s., fas. 18, Piccadilly, W, ^J
1875
BeauinoDt, A. R. de^ Esq. 19, St. John's-park, Uigligale, if, ^H
1877
Beautnont, ComniAnder Lewis A., B.K. JI.M.8. •' Excellent," Porttmouth. ^^M
1870
Beaumont,* Somerset, Esq. ffurstoote, Shere, near Guildford. ^^H
1851
Beiumont,* Wentworth IV, Esq., m.p. 144, Piccadilly, W.
1872
Eeavaii, Lieut. Ilegiaald. Messrs. Grindlay and Co., 55, Partiammtt-^treetf
S.W.
1867
Beuelfy,* Michael, Esq., m.i.c.e. Care of J. D. Campbell, Esq., 8, Store:/'*-
gate, S.W.
1871
Bcadej, Uajor Geo. G. (Hrtiil Regiment). Army and Kavy Club, S. W.
1866
Bebb, Homtio, ISaq. Mamliead, Exetei:
1880
BMher, Henry C. W., Esq. Lnndon. Canada West. Care of Mc^or J. -^i^^fl
Wood, 11, Prince's-sgwtre, Baysteater. ^^H
loo J
Royal Geoyraphical Society.
zzv
Sm*1\
Bective,* Thomas, Eu-1 of, m.p. Uhderley-hall, Kirkby Lotudale, Watmoreland,
Bedbrook, W. H, Esq. Blenheim-house, Wimbledon, S.W.
Bach, Geo. MttUer, Esq. Care of George KoMe, Esq., 100, LetUhaU-road,
JDai$ton,E.
BigUe,* James, Esq. 2, Eaat-Indiaf^f)emte, Leadenhall-street, B.C.
Begbie, Thomas Stirling, Esq. 36, Wallbrook, E.G.
Belcher, Rer. Biymer. St. GabrieVs ; and 32, Warwick-tqiutre, Pimlico, S. W.
Bell, H. Doaglas, Esq. 6, Marie-terrace, Eaateliff, Folkestone.
Bdl,* Joshna P., Esq.
Bell, Thomas, Esq. 15, Upper-park-road, Haeerstook-hUI, N. W.
Bell, Wm. A., Esq., B.A., M.D. New Unitersity Clvb, St, Jamet't-streel,
8.W.
Bell, Major W. M. 40, PaU-mall, S. W.
Bell, William Moore, Esq. 37, Charterhouse-square, B.C.
Bellamy, Edward, Esq. 14, Buckimiham-street, Adelphi, W.C,
Bellrille. Rev. Alfred. 20, Pennrroad-mllas, HoUoway, N.
Belroore, Right Hon. The Earl of, k.ch.O. 95, Eaton-place, S. W.
B«ijamin, Horace B., Esq. 169, New Bond-street, W.
Benjamin, Joseph, Elsq.
Bennett, J. lUsdon, Esq., UJ> 23, Cavendish-square, W,
Benson,* William, Esq. Langtons, Alresford, Hants.
Bentham, George, Esq., Pi-es. L.s. 25, Wilton-place, 8. W.
Bentley, George, Esq. Upton-park, Slough.
Benyon,* Wm. H., Esq. West-lodge, liipon.
Berens, U. Hulse, Esq. Sidcross, Foot's Cray, Kent.
Bernard, P. N., Esq, 37, Connaught-square, Hyde-park, W.
Bemays, Louis A., Esq. Care of A. FitsGibbon, Esq., The Rookery, Stanmore,
Middlesex.
Berridge,* Robert, Esq. 15, Highhwy-grotie, N.
Berryman, Edwin W., Esq. 27, Leadenhall-street, E.G.
BertLon, Peter Hy., Esq. 20, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square, W,
Best, Coromr. Jno. Chas. PUts-yn- Vivod, Llangollen.
Bethune, Alexander M., Esq. Otterbum, Hamlet-road, Upper Norwood; and
122. Leadenhall-street, E.G.
Bethnne,* Adm. C. R. Drinkwater, c.B. 4, Queenaberry-place, S. W.
Betts, John, Esq. 21, Freegrove-road, Camden-road, N.
Beran, William, Esq. 12, Bolton-gardens, South Kensington, S. W.
Beriogton, Henry Geo., Esq. Ferndale-house, Lee, SiE.
Bevington, Herbeit S., Esq., B.A. Femdale-liouse, Lee, S.E.
Bianchi, The Marchese. Padova, Veneto, Italy ; and Hanover-square Club, W.
Bibby,* Edward, Esq. Care of John Bibby, Esq.\ Hart-hUl, Liverpool,
Biclcer-Caarten, Peter, Esq., Corr. Mem. and Agent Geogr. Soc. of the Nether*
lands. 30, Northumberland-place, Bayswater, W.
238
xxvi
llteHii>.
List of Fellows of tlte ^^^^^^^^H
1
1875
Bickers, Edward. Esq., J.p. Care of Mesirs, King and Co., Com/iiil, E,C. 1
1870
Bickerstajr, W. M., Esq., J.P. 13, Highbury-terrace, N. J
1871
Bickersteth, The Very Re\-. Edwtml, D.D., Dean of LiohHelJ. The Dcantf^^^
Lichfield. ^H
' 1879
Bickford-Stnith,* W., Ejq. Trevarno, ITelston^ Oormcall. ^H
1608
P-
Bickmore,* A. S., £«]., m.*., ini.D., Superintendent of the Aneiicati MuMum i^^
Natoral Hiutory. Central-park, Neu> York. 1
1866
Bicknell, Algernon S., Ewj. 23, Onshvc-garderu, South Kensijujton. 1
1880
Bidder, B. P., Esq., jj.i.c.e., &c. Dcecfi-fmise, Loutfhton, Essex. ^^M
1871
Biddulpb, Geo. Tonraax, Esq. 43, Charinff-croti, S.W. ^^H
1874
BiJdulph, Joho, Esq. Swansea, ^^H
1879
Biddulph,* M.-ijor-Geuei-nl Sir H., k.c.h.o. Gooemor of Cj/prui. ^^H
1865
Bidwell, ChiuW lull, Esq. roreijn-<jfficei, S.W. ^^H
1859
Bigge, Frederick \V., Esq. Wavendon-lioust, Wobum.^ ^^|
1868
Biggs, C. H. Walker, E&q. 7, Freelandt-rood, Bromlty, Kent. ^^|
1876
Biggs, Jas., Esq., R.1I. 15, Thurloc-jUace, S.W. ^^M
1876
p.
Btgg-Wither,» T. P., Enq., C.K. Belmont-lod-je, Wray-park, Heigaie. ^^|
1850
Bigaby, John J., E»q., M.D., F.R.S. 89, Gloucester-place, PoHman-tqtuMre, W^^l
1858
Birch, John WUliam, Esq. 27, Cavendish-aquare, W. 1
1862
Birchill.* Cnptain B. H. H. Junior Carlton Club, S.W, 1
1872
Bird,* Rkhjird, Etq. Jloit-house, Fulham, S,W. ^^
187D
Bird, Thomnii, Eiiq. 36, Brook-street, W. ^^M
1874
Birdwood, Geo., Esq., M.D., C.S.I. Acton, W. ^^H
1675
Birkbeck, Edw., Esq., V.p. JJorttead-hall, Norviieh. ^^M
1878
Birka, Harry William, Esq. \6l, Brecknock-road, Tufnell-park, N.W. ^^M
1667
BiMihoff»heiin,* Henri Louis, Esq. 75, South Audley-street, W. ^^^
1858
Bishop, George, Esq.. F.R.A.8. Union Club, S.W.; and The MaaJort, j
l\ciekenham, S. W. J
1861
Bishop, James, Esq. .J
1876
Bishop, James, Est]. JTar court-house, Leytonstone. ^^H
1870
Biahop, Wm. Henry, Esq. Culterdtn^loJge, TuiArid.je WHls. ^^M
1867
fiisson, Cnpt. Frederick S. de Cartent, 70, Bemert-street, W. ^^|
1870
Black, Andiew H., Eaq. Kingston, Qlatgoa. ^^|
1860
Blade,* Francia, E$q, G, Nort/i-briJge, Edinburgh. ^^H
1878
BUck, Mnjor Geo. Robt Stewart, lioreth, Harroui; and Junior UniUd Strtief
CliA, Char lea-street, 8. W.'
1849
Blackie, W. Gi»han», Eaq,, ph.d. 17, Stanhope-street, Glasgow.
1862
BInnkBtoDt,* Frederick Elliot, Esq., D.C.L. 2, Caroline-street, Bedford-squjrtf
W.C.
187&
Blagden, Rohert, Ejq. Junior Carlton Club, Pall-mall, S. W.
1869
Blaine, Heniy, E«q. 1 1, Qledhou-gardens, South Kensington, S. W.
1874
Blair, Major H. F., R.E. 1, Clarendon-place, Hyde-park-tjardens, W.
1865
Blake, Brig.^en. H. W. \{>, Stanhcpestrett, Ugde-park-gardens, S.W.
a76 H
Royal Geographical Socitiy.
xzvii
TawW
1857
1872
1861
1876
1868
1857
1868
1873
1857
1839
1875
1866
1868
1872
1837
1863
1878
1871
1868
1871
1858
1874
1877
1861
1861
1858
1865
1866
1876
1879
1878
1875
1879
1845
1878
6. p.
P-
Biake,* H. Wolkston, Eaq., r.tus. 8, Devonshire-place, W.
Blakemore, Ramsey, Esq. Woodlcmda, GkM«hurtt, Kent.
Blakenej,* William, Esq., B.N. Secretary to Hydngrapkie-office, S.W.
Blakeney, Captain W. A. F.
BlakistOD, Matthew, Esq. 18, Wilton-creKent, 8. K.
Blaidston, Captain Thomas, K.A. 18, ViVUm-crescent, 8. W.
Blmc, Henry, Esq., H.D., tie. Care of Mesara. H. 8. King and Co., 45,
PaU^mall, 8. W.
Blanford,* W. T., Esq., F.a.S. Oeologioal Survey-office, Calcutta, Care of Meesrt.
TriSmer and Co., Ludgate-hiU, E.C; and Arte Ctvb, Hanotxr-aquare, W.
Blanshard, Richard, Eaq. Fairfield, Lymmgton, ilanta.
Blewitt,* Octavian, Esq. 10, John^reet, Strand, W.C.
Blount, Edward, Esq., C.B. 28, Old Burlingtoa-atreet, W.; and 61, Hue de
Oourcellea, Paris.
Blow, William Wootton, Eaq. Oak-lodje,J{yden'3-road, Walton-on-Thamea.
Blomberg, George F., Esq. Manafield-houae, Clifton-gardens, Ifaida-vale, W.
Blundell,* Charles Weld, Esq. Ince, Blundell-hall, Great Croaby; and Brookis
aub,8.W.
Blunt,* Job., Esq.
Blunt,* Wilfrid S., Esq. Crabhet-park, Crawley, Suaaex ; and 10, Jamea-atrect,
BucHnghcun-gate.
Blyth, Sir Arthur, K.c.H.o. (Agent-Gen., South Auatralia'). 51, Linden-gardena,
Kensington, W.
Blyth, Henry, Esq. 53, Wimpole-atreet, W.
Blyth, Philip P., Esq., j.p. 53, Wimpole-atreet, W.
Bodenham,* Cbas de la Barre, Esq. Bothenoaa, Hereford,
Bohn, Henry G., Esq. 18, ffenrietta-atreet, Covent-garden, W.C; and Korth-
end-houae, Twickenham.
Boileau, Colonel G. W. Stanfield-hall, Wymondhcan.
BoIt(»,* John, Esq. 13, Long Acre, W.C.
Bompas, George Cox, Esq. 15, Stanley-gardena, KenaingUmrpark, W.
Bonney, Charles, Esq. Adelaide, Auatralia.
Bonnor, George, Esq. 49, Pall-mall, S. W. ; and 2, Bayawater-terrace, Ken-
aington-aquare, W.
Bonwick, James, Esq. 2, Balmoral-terrace, Acton, W.
Booker, Wm. Lane, Esq. (H.B.M. CoDsulate, jS^an Francia<xt). Care of Mcaara.
King and Co., 45, Pall-mall, S.W.
Boor, Geo. C, Esq. Leonard-houae, Green-lanes, Stoke-Nevoington, N,
Booth,* Sir Henry Gore, Bart. Lisaadell, Sligo.
Booth, Ste{^en, Esq. 18, Blomjield-atreet, Upper Weatbouma-terrace, W.
Borlaae, Capt Jno. 2, Upton-tfUlaa, ffavan-green, Ealing, W.
Boiman, Allan W., Esq. Oloucaster-kouae, Lime-grooe, Uxbridge-road, W.
Borrer,* Dawson, Esq. Altmont Ballon, Co. Carlow, Ireland.
I Bote,* William, Esq. Whitehall-yard, Woodford, Esaex.
3"
xsviii
Elmk.n.
187n
k^^^^^H
r List of Fellow* of the ^^^^^^^^^^|
Bourne, Gen., Esq. Brifbane, Queensland. Care of Mr. John Taylor, 110,
FencliUrch-atreet, E.C.
1671
Qtfume, Jobo, Esq., c.e. 21, Biditnond-road, Saytwattr, W.
1B74
Boump, Robovt, Esq., j.p. Gra/ton-tiutnor, Bromtgrme.
1872
Bousfield. Williajn, Esq., M.A. 33, Stanhope-gardm, Quem't-gale, S.W.
1860
Bou.stead, John, E»q. 34, Craven-<ttreet, Strand, W.C. ^^H
1866
Boulcher,* Emanuel, E.'tq. 12, Oxford-vpiare, Hyde-park, W. ^^H
1865
Bourerie, P. P., Eiq. 32, Hill-ttreet, Berkeiey-sqitare, H'. ^^M
187'^
Bowden, A., ¥m\. Badcliffe Observatonj, Ox/urd. ^^H
1867
Bowell, llev. Wm. C/ianJos-fiouse, Hereford, ^^H
1861
Bowen,* Ctuorleu Christopher, Esq. Cfuistchurch, Cantsrbury, Ken Zealand. '
Care of Messrs. H. S. Kiiuj and Co., 65, ComJiilt, E.C.
1854
P-
B«wet>,* Sir Georg« Ferguwin, O.C.M.O., m.a. (Corcfmor of Maurilitts). Can of
Meaari. Cochs, BidduJph and Co., 43, Chariiuj-cros% S.W. ; and Athmmm
CtHb, Pall-mall, S. W.
1571
Bowen,* OipUin Alexander. Care of Messrs. Fr<xaer and Co., Penang. ^^M
1871
Bowes, John. Esq, Warrington. Lancashire, ^^H
1802
Bowie, John, Esq. CmservaUce Club, 8. W. ^^\
t86»
BowkcTt JartiM Henry, Esq. Basutoland, Smth Afrioa. Care of Mfttsra, King 1
ar>dCo.,ComhUl,E.C. 1
1878
Bowie*, John, Esq. Landport, Portsmmith, ^^^J
1868
Dowly, WilUnm, Esq. Cirencester, ^^^^M
1876
Oowman, Wm., Vjiq., F.n.a. 5, CUfford-street, W. ^^^^H
1305
Dowring, John Cliarles, E«q, Forest-farm, Windsor Forest, ji^^^^l
1 Still
Bowring, Sikmuel, E<q. 1, Westbounu-park, W. ^^^^H
1868
Bowser, Alfred T., Esq. Simnyeide, KenninghaU-road, Upper Clapton, ^^^^H
1845
Boyd,* Edward Le&nox, Esq., F.S.A. 3,^, Cleveland-square, ffyde-park, W. 1
1876
Boyd, Nclwm, Es(}. 7, Westminster'-chambers, S. W. ^J
1877
Boyd, Dr. R. Sotdhall-park, Middkttx. ^H
1874
Boyd, Wiilfam, Esq., M.A., F.tt.B.E., F.8.I., &c. Peterhead, Aberdeenshire.
1876
Boyer, Geoi-ge Phelpn, Esi^. 8, Wanciek-creKent, Maida-hill, W.
1869
Boyle:, Kichard Vican, Esq., cs.i. (Engineer in Chief to the GovpiTUnent
RjulwBjs and Telefjnifibf Japan), Care of Messrs. Qrindlay and Co.f
55, Parliament-street, S. W.
1874
Doyson, Ambrose P., Esq. East-JiUl, Waadsuforth, S.W,
1879
Brwlfield, Johu Linden, Esq., M.i,.*. Cape Colony. Care of Messrs. A. White
and Co., 17, Dloomfield-street, B.C.
1870
Biadshaw,* Siirg.-Mnjor A. F. Simla, India. Care of Messrs. Holt and 0*.,
17, Whitehall-place, S.W. ^M
1870
Bmgge,* William, Esq., c.E. Shirle-hill, Hamstoad-road, Birtmnffham, ^|
1802
Braithwnit«, Ismi:, Esq. 27, Austin Friars, E.C.
1880
Braithwaite, Stejiheo Nelson, Esq. 73, Qloucesler'place, PorimaHS>jiiitie, W. j
and 25, Ttirfyjmorton-ntrect, E.C.
18G3
Bnunley-Mooic,* Joliii, Esq. Langlcy-M<je, Gerrard'i-croas, Bucks.
L
1
Royal Geographical Society.
XXIX
1859
1878
1874
1872
1867
1876
1878
1874
1875 i
1877
1871
1874
1859
1875
1874
1834
1876 j
1876 {
1867 {
1874
1
1876 \
1873
1853
1877
1880
1852 I P*
1865
1861 i P*
1868
1860 I
1876 '
1854 I
1856
Brand,* Jama, Esq. 109, Fenchureh^rtet, E.C.
Brand,* James, Esq. Bedford-hiU, BaUum} and 37, Neva Broad ttreet,
E.C.
Brand, Jno. H7., Esq. President of the Orange Free State Republic, S. Africa.
Care of Henry Blyth, Eaq., 53, Wimpole -street, W.
Braoder, Captain William M. (24th Foot). Army and Navy Club, Pail'mall, S. W.
Brandis, Dr. D., F.us. Director of Eoresta, Oaleutta. Care of W. H. Men,
Esq., 13, Waterloo-place, S.W.
Brandon, David, Esq. 24, Berkeley-square, W.
Brandreth, Edward Lyall, Esq. 32, Elvaston^place, Queen's-gate, S. W.
Brandreth,* Hy. P., Esq. StandishHreetory, Wigan, Lanoashire.
Branson, W. Powell, Esq. 23, Rectory-grove, Clapham, S. W. ; and 155, Fen-
church-street, E.C.
Brass, Emil, Esq. Care of Messrs. Blatzpiel, Stamp and Heaoook, 38, Knight-
rider-street. Queen Victoria-strett, E.C.
Bnusey,* Thos., Esq., if .p. 24, Park-lane, W. ; and Normanhitrst-oomi, Battle.
Bray, Joseph, Esq., O.E.
Brayfarooke, Philip Watson. Studley, Bishop's Down Park, Ttmbridge
WVU. *
Bracza, Pierre SaTatyian de. Paris.
Brent, Algernon, Esq. Audit-office, Somerstt-^otue, W.C.
Breton,* Commr. Wm. Henry, R.N., F.0.8. 15, Camden-crescent, Bath ; and
lie Beoiory, Quxrmoath, Dorset.
Brett, Right Hon. Sir W. Baliol, Knt. 6, Ennismore-gardens, Prince' s-gate, S. W.
Bridal, Walter Geo., Esq. 46, Fentiman-road, Clapham-road, S.W.
Bridge, John, Esq. Heatley-house, Beatley, near Warrington.
Bridgeman, Granville, Esq. Holme-lodge, Bdlham-road, Upper Tooting; and
Junior Conservative Clvb, King-street, St. James's.
Bridger, R. Lowther, Esq. New Univenity Club, St. James' s-street, S.W.
Bridger, Captain W. Milton, H.ir. St. Stephen's Club, Westminster, S. W.
Bridges, Nathaniel, Esq. Blaekheath-park, S.E.
Bridge*,* Commander W. B., r.n. H.M.S. " Wolverine," Australia. Care of
Messrs. J. W. Bridges and Sons, 5a, Wamford-court, E.C.
Bridgford, Major Sidney Thomas, r.u.a. Army atid Navy Club, PaU-mall, S. W.
Brierly,* Oswald W., Esq. 38, AmpthUl-square, N. W.
Briggs, Colonel J. P. Bonjedieard-house, Jedburgh.
Bright,* Sir Charles T., F.E.A.8. 20, Bolton-gardens, S. W.
Bright, Henry Arthur, Esq. Ashfield, Knotty Ash, Liverpool.
Bright, James, Esq., M.D. 6, Holyrood-place, Plymouth.
Bright-Smith, Rev. G. Aug. Buscot-lodge, Maida-hill, W.
Brine, Colonel Frederic, R.E., k.t.s., Assoc. Inst. C.B., F.z.8. 45, Vicioria-
street; Army and Navy, Athenaum, and United Service Clubs, S.W.; and
Garrick Club, W.C.
Brine, Captain Lindesay, R.N. Boldre-house, Lymington, Hants; and United
Service Club, S. W.
37»
P"
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^H
■BS
Bfistowf, Henry Foi, Esq. 22, Old-$quare, Lincoln's-inn, W.C. ^^H
1875
Broftdmend,* Jjis. B., E»q., B.a. , 27, Wtinckk-aquare, S.W. ^^^
1861
Brodie, Walter, Esq. Ortett-Aouie, Oi-aett-tetracet Hyde-park, \V. ^^|
1861
Brodie, WilUatn, Esq. Eastbourne, Suaux. ^^%
1874
Bm-liibb, Willinm Adams, Emj. Care of Rtv. W. K. SrodrMf St. ifartm's J
Church, liriijhton. 1
1863
c.
Brodrick,* Th« Hon. George C. 32a, Mount-ttreet, W. ^J
1874
Brogden, James, Caq. ^^H
1878
Brooke, Commr. A. T., R.:«. Ashbrooke, BrooHnro', Litnas/iea, Ireland. ^^H
1874
Brooke. Ckas., Enq. {Eajah of Saravak). ^H
1879
Brooke, Cipt. Charles K. (tSth Regiment). 3, Qordon-tqwtre, W.C. ; and Army
and Xary Club, Pall-mall, S. W.
1864
Brooke,* Sir Victor A., Burt. Colcbnoke-park, Co. F&rmanagh, Inland,
1875
Brooke, Capt. W. Saurin (Bctig. Staff Corps).
1872
Brookes, Ciifford J., Etq. Ttie Grange, Nightingale-lane, Clapham-common, S. W.
IfiM
Brooking,* Slannaduke Hart, Esq. 11, Montagu-place, Montarjus-iuare, W.
1877
Brooks, Joseph, Esq. Survey-office, Adelaide, South Australia. Care of J/csiri.
Johnrm and Archer, 147, Fcnchurch-stre«t, E.G.
1876
Brooks, Robert Aleiaoder, Ecq. Coniercatioe Club, St. James s-ttreet, S. W.
1870
Brooks,* \Vm. Cnnliflc, Esq., M.J'., m.a., r.S.A., &c. 5, Orosvenor-fquare, TV. ;
BarloiD-hall, near Manchester; and Forest of Olen-Tanar, Aboi/ne, Aber-
deenshire.
1863
Broughall,* William, Esq. 8, Great Winchester-ttreet-biiildings, E.C. ^_
1880
Brown, Cluu-les Georgp, Esq. Orpington, Kent. ^^H
1856
Browi),* Daniel, Esq. ^^^^H
1868
Brown, Colonel D«vid (Madnu Staff Corps). India. ^^^^B
1877
Brown, E. A,, Esq, Burton-on- Trent.
1877
P-
Brown, Rer. Ciieorg^. Care of the Wcsleyan Missionary Society, 17, Biihopt-
gate-atreel -within, E.C.
1877
Brown, Henry IJowlnud, Esq, 56, Lincoln's-inn-Ji^ds, W.C. ; and Oxley-grwe,
Stanmore.
1874
Brown, J. B. Esq. 90, Canmm-strect, E.C; and Bromley, Kent.
1865
Brown • Jnme* R., Esq., f.r,8.s.a., Copnihngm. 14, Hilldrojt-roiid, Camden-
road,N.
1881
Brown," John Allen, Esq. DaMieell-lodge, Kent-gardens, Ealing, TV.
1867
Brown, Richnrd, Esq., C.e. 115, Lansdoune-road, Notting-hill, W.
1867
P'
Brown, Robert, Esq., 11.A,, PII.D., F.L.S., &c. 26, Guilford-road, Albert-
square, S. W.
1858
Brown,* Thomas, Esq. 8, Uyda-pari-terrace, Hyde-park, W.
187G
Brown,* Rev, Thoe. E. Clifton-college, Bristol. i
1859
Brown, Williun, Esq. Quarry-hiU-house, Tonbridge, KcTtt, ^^^
1879
Brown, William, Esq. Thllington-park-college, Hollowiy, N, ^^fl
1879
Browne, Capf. Eilmund C. Cireof T. D. Sullivan, Esq., Royal United Serrlet J
Inat, Whitehall-yard, 8.W. ^^
411 ^^^M
Royal Geogrc^hical Society,
XXXI
Tavor
1864
1863
1858
1869
1874
1877
1838
1869
1853
1856
1863
1873
1879
1856
1867
1874
1874
1869
1876
1863
1867
1868
1865
1869
1875
1863
1879
1860
1839
1863
1866
1875
1871
1864
1872
1878
C. C.
Browne,* CapUin E. P. Wade. Care of Colonel Hall, Ueighington, Darlington.
Browne, H. H., Esq. Mw-clotef Sinfield, Bracknell.
Browne,* John H., Esq. Lauritton, Sollington-park, St. LeonanTs-onSea.
Browne, Samnel Wooloott, Ecq. 58, Porchester-terrace, Hyde-park, \V.
Browne, Walter Raleigh, Esq., aE. 38, Belgraoe-raod, S.W.
Browne, Rer. W. E. West WalUm, Wi^ieach.
Browne, William J. Esq. 7i, Gloucester-road, South Kensington, S. W.
Browning, G. P., Eaq. The ChAlet, Kingswood, Dulteichtoood-park, S.E.
Browning, H., Eaq. 73, Orosvenor^treet, Grosvenor-iquare, W.; and Old
Wardenrpark, Biggleswade.
Browning,* Thomas, Esq. 6, Wutehall, S. W.
Bnmton, John, Esq., 11.1.0.E., r.o.s. 13a, Oreat Qeorge-street, 8. W.
Brunton, R, H., Esq., y.OA, &c (Young's Paraffine L^ht Co.). Bathgate,
Sootland.
Brjans, Capt. James W. 10, Ingles-park-road, Foihestone.
Bryant, Walter, Esq., x.d., F.R.C3. 23a, Sussex-square, Hyde-park-gardens, W.
Bnodench,* His Grace the Dolce of, K.a., f.r.8. Daikeith-paiace, near Edinburgh ;
and Montagu-house, WhOehaH, S. W.
Buchanan, B. Dmilop, Esq. 50, Old Broad-street, E.C.
Badianan,* Thos. Rybam, Esq. All Sovlf College, Oxford.
Buckley, John, Eaq. 16, Jolimont-street, Jolimont, East Melbourne, Victoria.
Care of Messrs. Daigety, Da Croz, and Co., 52, Lombard-street, E.C.
Bw^ley, John, Esq. ITte Academy, Weaver-view, Winsfurd, Cheshire.
Budd, J. Palmer, Esq. Tnisdaren, near Swansea.
Bulger,* Lieut-Colonel George Ernest, F.L.8., F.M.S., CMjz.s., &c. (late 10th Foot).
Care of Messrs. Wheatley and Co., 156, Leadenhall-street, E.C.
Bull,* William, Esq., F.us. King's-road, Chelsea, S. W.
Boiler, Sir Edward M., Bart., K.p. Dilhom-hall, Cheadle, Staffordshire.
Buller, Walter L., Esq., C.U.a., F.L.S. 7, Westminster-chambers, l^oria-st., S. W.
Bullinger, Rev. E. Wm. Walthamstow, Essex.
Bullock, Captain Charles J., r.n. Foroshi-house, Woolwich.
Bulwer, Major-Generol E. G., c.B. 6, ifontagu-square, W.
Bunbury,* Sir Charles James Fox, Bart.,F.B.S. Barton-hall, Bury St. EdmunuTs.
Bunbury, E. H., Esq., m.a. 35, St. James' s-street, 8. W.
Bnndock, F., Esq. Buckland-abbey, Horrabridge, 8. Devon.
Burgefli,* James, Esq., 11.R.A.S. (Archaeological Reporter, &c., to Government,
Bombay). 8, Merohistoti-terrace, Edinburgh. Care of Messrs. TrQbner and
Co., Ludgate-hiU, E.C.
Burgoyne, John, Esq. Woodthorpe, Stoneb ridge-park, WillesJen.
Burke,* Samuel Constantine, Esq. 21, Leinster-square, Bayswater, W.
Bum-Blyth, Robert, Esq. 5, Clifton-place, Sussex-square, W.
Bume, Colouel Sir Owen F., K.c.s.i., CLE. India-office, 8. W. ; and Heatherha*
Albuny.
Burnett, Jas. Compton, Esq., m.d, 4, Harley-pUxce, Uarley-strcet, W.
44»
xxxi:
Yffaraf
Lita of Feilowa of the ^^^^^^^^|
drClUMI.
^^K^^k
1871
Bnrn#y, Commr, Ch«s., K.N., Sup^ninU'ndent Greenwich Hospital Scho6lt,a!^^^^
18tf3
Bums/ John, Esq. Castle Wemya, by Greenock, X. B. 1
1861
Burr,* lligford, Es<i. 23, Eaton-plane, S. W. ; ami Aldemuatot^-eourt, Berkshire. 1
1657
Burstal, Captain E., R.N. 9. Park-villcu, Lover I^onoood, SJE. ^^M
1872
Burt, Chorlet, E*q. Hill-side-hnuse, RicKmomd, Surrey. ^^H
1878
Burt, Frederick, Esq. 71-2, ComAill, E.C.; and Woodstock, Crescent-nnti^^
Crouch End. 1
1B33
Burton,* DecimuK, Esq., r.K.8. Ij Olowoester-houtes, GlonKester-orescent^ W, 1
1859
(5. ]\
Burton,* Capt. lUihard Fras., H.U.M. Consul. Trieite ; and Athenceum Ct»l>. ^J
1861
Bush, Her. I'obcrt Wheler, M.A. 29. Miltter~a(]uare, Islington, If. ^^H
1874
Biuhell, Dr. Nathaniel. Basa High-school, near Bury, Lcmcaihire. ^^^H
1874
\>-
Bushell, S. W., E»q., M.D. Care of R. Mailteat, Esq., Biekley, Kent. ^H
1873
Buak, Capt. Hans, D.L., I.L.D., P.H.S., Hod. D.c.L. Oxfonl. 21, Ashhy'plact,
S. W. ; and United University Club.
1»(]8
Busk, William, Esq., U.C.f., tic. 28, BeashorOvbj?i^ardens, S. W.
1880
Hussell, l!eT. James. Lit, Jnstitut, Breidenstcin, Grcnchen (/.'f. .So/oMnm),
SwUserland.
1801
butter, Charles, Esq. 3, Connetught-place, Hyde-park, W.
lSt>7
Butler, E. Dnndaii, K*q. Geographical Department, British Mtuetim, W.C.
1878
Butler, Frank Hedges, Esq. Hollywood, Wimbledoti-park, S. W, ; ami 14, Nevs
Bwlitujton-slrcet, W.
1878
0.
Butler, George Grey. Ea]. 257, Brompton-roaJ, S.W.
1878
BuUei* Lieut.-Colouel HeniT Thomas. 66, Prince' a-gate, 3. W. ^^J
1860
Butler, Rev. Thomas. Wilder hope-house, Shrewsbury. ^^H
1871
Butler, Lient-Coluiiel W. F. (69th Hagimeot). 3, Tregunterroad, S. W, ^^M
1870
Biprton, Francis \V., Esq., M.f. 15, Eaton-plaoe, S. W. ^^H
1869
Buxton, Henry EdmuiiJ, Es-j., ii.A. Bunk-house, Great Varmouth, Norfolk.
1873
Buit<:.n,* John H., Esq. llreirery, SpiteUfields, E.C.
18A8
C".
Bujtion,* Sir Tliomns Fowell, Bnrt. 14, Qrost:«nor-cr«3(xnt,S.W. ; and Warlie*,
Waitham-nUiey, Essex.
1861
Calthorpe, The Hon. Augustus Cough. 63, Itulland-gaie, S. W. ^^H
* 1855
Calthorpe,* F. H. Gough, Lord. 33, Groirenor-square, W, ^^|
1854
Calvert, Frederic, Esq., Q.C. 38, Upper Grovcenor-street, W. ^^|
1871
Cama,* DorabJM Pestronjee, Esq. 3 and 4, Winchetter-ttrtet'huildinijs, E^C.
1801
Cameron, Donald, Esq., M.P. Avcknaoarr^j, Intemess-shire.
1672
Cameron, >tajor Donnld R., n.A., c.»,G. Matta. Care of Messrs, Co* and Co.,
Craig's-cwrt, S. W.
1858
Cameron, Lient.-General Sir Duncan Alexnnder,a.c.B.
1864
p.
CRmeron, J., Esq.
1878
Cemeron, Italph Abercrombie, Esq. 3, Oranvilk-phtce, BlackUath ; and Juaier
Carlton Ckb, W. ^M
^ 1
Royal Geographical Society.
zzxui
1866
1876
1871
1873
1866
1878
1844
1878
1857
1834
1863
1869
1872
1872
1856
187G
1876
1866
1864
1877
1880
1877
1873
1853
1863
1873
1879
1869
1872
1862
1863
1873
1858
1876
S. p.
Cp.
Cuneron, R. W., Esq. Clifton, Staten Island, New Tark. Car« of Messrs.
Brooks and Co., St. Peter' s-Otambers, ComhUl, E.C.
Cameron, Commr. Vemey Lorett, B.N., C.B. Shoreham-vicarage, Sevenodks.
Campbell,* Allan, Eiq. Melbourne Club, Melbourne.
Cunpbell, C. H., Esq. 64 Cromieell-road, S.W.
Campbell, Sir George, K.c.s.1., m.p., d.c.l. 13, ComwaU-gardens, South Ken-
smgton, 8. W. ; and Atkenaum Club, S. W.
Campbell, Geo. W., Esq. 22, Queen' s^ate-gardens, S.W.
Campbell,* James, Esq. Park-farm, Hendon, Middlesex; and 37, Seymour-
street, W.
Campbdl, James, Esq. 17, Queen's-gate, S. W.
Campbell, James, Esq., Surgeon R.N. The Grange, ChigweOrrmo, N.E.
Campbell,* James, Esq., jim. Cawley-priory, Chichester.
Campbell,* James Duncan, Esq. Peking. 8, Storey' s-gate, St. James's-pai-k,
S.W.
Campbell, Robert, Esq., J.p. Buscot-park, Lechlade, Gloucestershire.
Campbell, Robert, Esq. Lednock-bai^ Comrie, Perthshire.
Ounpbell, William, Esq. Care of Mr. Provan, 69, St. Vincent-square, Glasgow.
Campbell-Johnston, A. 1\., Esq., F.R.S. 84, St. Georges-square, S.W.
Campion, Frank, Esq. The Mount, Duffield-road, Derby.
Candler, Samuel Horace, Esq., B.A., LL.B. 23, Essex-street, Strand, W.C.
Cannii^ Sir Samuel, C.E. 6, Horbury-road, Notting-hill, W.
Gannon,* John Wm., Esq. Castle-grove, l\iam.
Cantlejr, Nathaniel, Esq. Botanical Gardens, Pamplemousses, Mauritius. Care
of W. Coghill, Esq., Police Magistrate, Thurso, Caithness.
Capper, Robert, Esq. Swansea-harbour, Swansea.
Cardi, Cbas. Napoleon de, Esq. 78, Tower-buildings, Water-street, Liverpool.
Cardwell,* Edwai-U H., Esq. Ilillside, West Ilorsley, Surrey; Oxford and
Cambridge and Garrick Clubs.
Cardwell,* Right Hon. Viscount. 74, Eaton-square, S.W.
Carew,* R. Russell, Esq., J.p. Carpenders-park, Watford, Herts ; and Oriental
Chb, W.
Carey, Lieutenant H. C. (late i.N.). Alma-road, Southport.
Cartj, John James, Esq. Jndore, Central India. Care of Messrs. H. S.
King and Co., Comhill, E.C.
Carey, Rev. Tupper. Fifield, Bavant, Salisbury ; and 15, Hyde-park-gardens, W.
Gaifrae, John, Esq. 28, Norfdk-road, St. John's-wood, N.W.; and Junior
Conservative Club, King-street, St. James's.
Cargill, John, Esq. Dunedin, Otago, New Zealand, Care of Messrs. Cargill,
Joachim and Co., 1, Great Winchester-street, E.C,
Cargill,* Wm. W., Esq. Lancaster-lodge, Campden-house-road, W.
Carillon,* John Wilson, Esq., F.S.A., F.S.8., &c. WormhUl, Buxton.
Carlingfind, Right Hon. Lord. 7, Carlton-gardens, S. W.
Carlisle, A. D., Esq. Haileybury-collcge, Hertford.
516
xxxn
Yi«r<Kf
ElMtlUB.
1664
r
List ofFelJovDs of the ^^^^^^^H
Cnrmichael,* Capf. L. M„ M.A. (.ith Ijinecrt). Athenmim Club. PaU-maJl, S. W. f
and 17, \\e$t Cromwell-road, S. W.
I8S5
Carn^e,* Duvid, Esq. Eattbbiry, by Watford, Herti. J
1863
Carnegie, CoraRiandei- the Hon. J., R.N. 26, Pall-mall, 8. W. J
1876
Carr,* \Vm. Wnrd, Esq., M.n, 6, Lee-Umne, Lte, 8.E. ^^|
1879
Carr-Gomm, F. Culling:, Esq. 10, Nete-atrtet, Bpriruf-gardent, S. W. ^^
1861
Carter, Lieut.-CoIcinHl Hugh Boahani- (Coldstream Guards). GmnU' Club, S. W.j
and 51, Victoria-street, S. W.
1868
Carter, Mnjor Thomas Tupper, K.E, Care of MItttrt, H. S, King and Co.,
45, rail-mail.
1873
Carter, Theo<lore, K»q. Mapperley-house, Bumt-ash-hUl, Lee, S.E.
1857
Cartwright, Col. Henry (Grenadier Guardii), ¥.P. Eijdon-hall, Banbury,
1874
Cartwright, William, Fisq. Can of Office of Chincae Customs, 8, Storey' a-gate,
St. Jamea'a-park, S. W.
1860
Carver,* Kev. Miv^l .t., D.D., Miwter of Dutwich College. IhiUich, S.E.
1869
Caabcrd-liotelef, Commr. \S. J., R.x. The Elms, Taplotc ; and Xaval ttHd
Military Ciuh, I'iccadUly, W.
1858
Casella, Louis P., Esq. 147, HotbornJnrt, E.G. ; and Sovth-grove, HigltQitte, If.
1875
Caaselt, Andrew, Esq. (Member of Council of India). 51, Clneland-^tare,
Hyde-park, W.
1874
Caaiiaai, Chaa. Joaeph, Esq. 12, Oeorge-strcet, Portman-square, W,
1877
Catea, Arthur, K»i\. 7. WMehall-yard, 8. W. ^^M
1673
Oatbcart, Mnjor Anitrew. 16, Grosvenor-street, W. ^^^M
1872
CatoD, R. I!c<lntr.inl, Usq., i-.s.A. Unioit Clvb; and Binbrook-Jiottse, Marhti-
liasen, Lincolnshire,
1872
Cattlej, Edward, V.v\. 98, Doter-roiid, Folkestone, Kent; and St. Petcrdmrg,
1879
Caudwell,* J., Esq. Spenoer-park, Wandsvorth-common, S. W.
1800
CaTS, Amos, Esij. G rote-house, Cromwell-road, Brixtvn-rise, Svrrey.
i876
Care, Colonel Edward. East India United Service Clvb, 14, St. Jamet't-
agiiorv, S, W.
18A7
Care, Captain Laurence Trent. 13, Loumdes-aquare, S.W.
1874
CaTe-Browne, Rev. J. Detling-vicarage, Maidstone. ^_
1869
r-
Cnjriej, Dr. Henr^. 3, All Saints' -road, Qifton, Bi-istol. ^^M
1873
Chad wick, Jeiae, Eiq. London-road, Derby. ^^H
1874
Chadwitik, .Ido. 0., Eaq. ^Q, DoUon-road, SU John'a-vood, N.W. ^^H
1863
ChalHn, John Henry, Eiq. Reform Club, S. W. ^H
1871
Chalmer,* Capt, Reginald (60th Royal Kifles). Peshatour, East Indies. ^B
1880
Chamberlaiiie-Bey, Cliarle* de T. 31, St. Charlea'a-tquarr, N. Ken»i»gionj W.
1874
Champain, Major J. U. Bateman, b.e. Chiaholm-hdge, Queen's-road, liick-
mond.
1858
Champion, John Fmncis, Esq. Iligh-street, Shreirsbnry.
1876
Chumpnejr, Chas. E., lisq. Bank rteld, Halifax. i
1866
(B.r.
Chandlflsa,* WiUiam, Esq. 5, Poriman-ttreet, Oxford-street, W. ^|
1875
Chajielle, Count de la. \, Rue Godat de Mauroi, Paris. ^^|
L 1
Royal Gtograpkical Society,
XXXV
1873
1855
185S
1876
1870
1858
1856
1878
1S57
1869
1880
1874
1877
1872
1872
1880
1878
1871
1830
1849
1856
1870
1863
1870
1872
1873
1S68
1862
I
VOL. XLIX.
Chapman, Liettt.-Col. E. F^ r.a. FairMma, Wimbledon, S. W.
Chapoun,* Spencer, Esq. Soehan^don, S. W.
Charlemont, Right Hon. The Earl of, K.P. 1, Matufield-street, W.
Oiamock, Richard Stephen, Esq., pild., rjB.A. Jwuor Oarrkk Ctvb,
AMphvierraoe, W.C.
Chater, Geo., janr., Esq. 41, Porehegtersqucure, Byde-parkf W,
CSiatwood, Samnel, Esq. 5, Wentworth-place, Bolton.
ChauTin, George Ton, Esq. 100, Qreaham-houae, Old Broad-atreet, E.C,
Cheadle, Walter B., Esq., B.A., 1(.d. Camb. 2, Hyde-park-plaoe, Cumb«rland-
gate, W.
Cbeetham, Samoel, Esq. II, Bvmiford-plaoe, Lwerpool,
Cheshire, Edward, Esq. 3, Vanbrugh-park, Blackheath, 8.E, ; and Contervatite
Cltd>,8.W.
Chetwode, Angnstiu L., Esq. 3, (^arle$'$tregt, Lovmdet-tqvare, 8. W. ; and
C^Stoa-kouie, Utame, Oxfordthire,
Chcjne, Captain Jno. P., jus. 1, Westgate-terraex, W. Brompton, S.W.
Chichester, Sir Bmoe, Bart. Arlington-coitrt, Barnstaple,
Childers, Right Hon. Hugh C. E., H.p. 17, Prmce's-garden$, S. W.
Childen, John Walbanke, Esq. Cantley-hall, near Doncatter.
Clulds, Capt. Geo. Conlaon (Acting Col. Secy., Accra). II, Finsbwry-phce
South, E.C.
Chinuno,* Captain William, B.K, Westdowne, Weymouth.
Chinnock, Frederick George, Esq. 86, ComuiaU-gardem, Queen's-gate, 8. W.
Chimside, Andrew, Esq. Care of Messrs. Dalgety, Du Croz and Co., 52,
Lombard-street, E.C.
Cholmley,* Harrj Walter, Esq. Hoxosham, near York.
Christie, Edward Richard, Esq.
Christie, James Alexander, Esq. Plymouth.
Christie, T. Beath, Esq., K.D. Ealing.
Christj,* Thomas, Esq. Malvem^hovae, Sydenham, 8E.
Church, Capt. Edw. John, ii.N. Bayat Naval Coliege, Greenwich.
Church, Colonel Geo. Earl. Care of W. W. Wynne, Esq., 40, Chancery-lane, E.C.
Church,* W. H., Esq.
Churchill, Lord Alfred Spencer. 16, Rutland-gate, S. W.
ChnrdiiU, Charles, Esq. Weyhridge-park, Surrey.
Clapton, Edward, Esq., H.D., &o. St. Thomases-street, Southmtrk, S.E.
Clark, Lieut. Alex. J. 33, Springfield-road, St. John's-wood, N.W. : fwl
14, St. James' t-square, 8. W.
Clark, Charles, Esq. 20, Belmont-park, Lee, Kent, S.E.
Clark, George Thomas, Esq. Dowlais-house, Dowlais.
Clark, Sir John, Bart. Tillypronie, Tarland, Aberdeenshire.
Clark, John Gilchrist, Esq. Speddock, Dumfries, Dumfriesshire.
Clark, J. Latimer, Esq. 5, Westminster-c/uimbers, Victoria-street, S. W. : and
Beechmont, Dulwich, S.E.
587 a
^^^^^^^^Bm
Lixi of Fellows of the ^^M
Taw or
hmmob.
1B79
awk, >I«l«o, Eaq. Cart of Frmcltco Tbmme, Biq., 4, Jeffnyt-^jmrtf
St. Mary -axe, K.C.
1874
CUrk,* Mftthew E., Eiq. 18, OrancUk-place, Portman-ifjMare, W,
1870
Clark, Robert, Iwq. 40, Chepstoie-vilht, Daysicuter, W. .^
1878
Clark, SUplieo, Etq. I, Luvmdcr-viila, Wood-§treet, Bamtt. ^^M
1868
•
Ctark, Willlftm, £jq. ^H
18«5
Chrlc, W. H., h:ii|. 6, LeinsUr-terraee, Hyda-park, W, ^^|
1874
Clark-Kennedfj* Capt. Alrxnmler W. M., r.is, (Lite Colibtreun Giunh).
Quatdi' Club, PaU-maU, S. IV'.
1875
Clarke, Areliib«tld Hy., lisq. Sotah-hill, Puigittou, Dtwn.
1859
Clarke, Col. Sir A., B.K., K.C.M.O. Arm;/ and Xaty Club, B.W.
1874
!'•
Clarice, Major F. C. H., n.A, c.m.o. Adatr-KouM, St. JatMt'»-tqwr«, S.W.
1872
CUrke, Josepb, Erq. North-hill-vUh, Highgatc^ N. ^^H
1879
ClAUion, Charlec, Esq. 100, Fmohwi^strwt, E.C. ^^f
1863
Clayton, Cnptnin John W. (l*t« IStli Hussars). \^, Portmansqitart, W, |
186C
Cleghon:,* Hugh, Esq., K.D. Stratithy, 81. Andrew's. ^^M
1871
l*-
Clegbom. John, Esq., U.S.8., U.S.A., ite. 3, Spring-<jardmt, S.W. ^^M
1879
Clement, Mnjor Reynold Allcyoe. Datchet, Bucks. '^^1
18ti3
Clements, Rer. H. G. Vicara<je, Sidmouth ; and Unittd Unheraily Club, S, W, J
1870
Clements, Robert Georg*, Eiwj. 97, Victoria-park-road, E, I^H
1880
P- '
Clerk, Cnptoiii Clnude. Hyderabad, E. Indies, ^^^M
1858
Clermont, Thomas, Lord. 35, HUl-slreet, Berkeley-tgmrt, W.; md '^'■^^1
dah-park, Newry. ^^1
1845
Clereland,* His Grace tBe Duke of. CIevel<md-/M\ue, 17, St. Jcatm'i-*qwir4, J
S.W. jim
1881
Clifford, Sir Charles. Hatherton-hall, Cannock, Stafordihire. ^^M
1858
Clifford, Charles Cavendish, Esq., k.p. House of Lords, S. W. ^H
1871
Cliffonl, Henry, Esq., G.E. 1, Lansdoien-plaae, Blackhtatik, S.E. ^^|
1868
Clinton, Lord Eiiward. Amy and Naty Clvb, S. W. ^^M
1875
Clirehugh, W. P., Esq. 14, Ladbroke-terroM, Xotting-kill.
187!>
Clive, Colonel Edward H. (Grenadier Guards). 15, Ennisiitorc-ifardtns, Princ/*-
,jaU, S. W.
1883
Clowes, E., Esq. Salisbury-squart, Ftmt'ttreet, E.C.
1874
Clow«, Capt. Frederic (30th RegimtBt). 61, Qlcmccstc-.Urntce, Hyde-park, W.
1854
Clowes, George, Eaq. Duke-ttrett, Stamford-atrMtt S.E.; Oiaring-ore*$f,
S. W. ; and Swbitan. Surrey.
1854
Clowes, William, Esq. 51, Glauccster'terrace, Hyde-park, W.
18G1
Clowes, William Charles Knight, Eaq., M.A. DHhe-strtet, Stamford 'itrtti,^
S.E. ; and SHrbiton, Surrey.
1874
Coard. Philip Aldridge, Esq. 13, St. Mark't-sqwxre, Sixndringham-rood, Wtst
Haoknty, E.
1877
Cootc, James, E«q. 41 amd 42, Luk-atrect, Leicestcr-tqiuvx, W.C; and
Chard, Somersetshire,
1875
bmites, EdraunJ, Esq, 8, Daker-itivd, Portman-sqiuu-e, W,
6ji jj
J
Rcyai O«ographicdl Society.
xzzvu
T«r«r
1877
1875
18S3
1859
1878
1888
1869
1862
1862
1876
1859
1865
1841
1876
1871
1873
1872
1857
1861
1876
1865
1879
1875
1868
1876
1867
1841
1854
1848
1876
IS7S
1835
1872
1878
1866
1855
e.c.
Ctmim, Walter Sw, Esq. 2, Mcdvem-vilhu, Btlgraee-road, Bath.
Cobb. Jub Francis, Esq. The Brake, Torquay, Dewn.
Cbbbold, John Cheralier, Esq. Athenaum Club, 8. W. ; mtd Ip$wioh, Suffolk.
Oochrane, Bear-Admind the Hon. A., c.b. Junior United Senioe CM, 8.W,
Cochrane,* Kenneth. Esq. Elmbank, Oakuhith, N. B.
Cock, Edward, Esq. Eingtton-on~Iltamea.
Cockbom,* Major James George (6th R^meat). Braoondale, Norioich
Cockerton, Richard, Esq. Cornwall-gardens, South Keneiiigton, S. W
Cockle,* Captain George. 9, BoUon-gardena, South Kentington, 8. W.
Cocks,* Alf. Heneage, Esq. Thames Bank, Great Marlow, Bucks.
Cocks, Colonel C. Lygon (Coldstream Goards). li^everbyo'Vean, Liikeard,
Comwatt,
Cocks, Major Octayios Torke. 86, Parh-street, Qroavewr-square, W.
Cocks,* Ranald Thistlethwajte, Esq. 43, Charing-cross, S. W. } and
29, Stanhope-gardens, South Kensington, S. W.
Cocks,* Thos. S. Vernon, Esq. 43, Chariitg-oross, S. W.
Cockahott,* Arthur, Esq., ila. Eton College.
Codringtoi, General Sir William, g.c.b. 110, EatoU'^juare, S. W.
Coe,* Rev. C. C. SighfiOd, BoUon-le-Moors.
Cog^ilan, Edward, Esq. l\raining-instUution, Gray'a^nn-road, W.C,
Co^ilan, J., Esq. (E^gr.-in-Chief to the Government, Buenos Ayres). Care of
H. C. Forde, Esq., 6, Duke-etreet, Adelphi, W.C.
Coj^ilan,* Sta£r.>Commr. Jas. £., rjt. Care of Hgdrographie-office, Admirvdtgy
S. W. ; and East India United Service Club, St. James' s-square, S. W.
Colchester, Reginald Charles Edward, Lord. Kidbrooke, East Grinstead.
Cole, Alfred Clapton, Esq. 64, Portland-place, W.
Cole, Geo. Ralph Fitz-Rojr, Esq. Queen Annel's-mansionj Westmijuter, S.W.^
and Wanderers^ and South American Clubs, S. W.
Cole, William H., Esq. 64, Portland-place, W.
Cole, Wm. Hammond, Esq. Great Plumstead, near Norwich, Norfolk.
Coletwook, John, Esq. 17, Walton^lace, Chelsea, S. W.
Colebrooke,* Sir Thomas Edward, Bart., Ii.p., F.B.A.8. 37, South-street, Park-
lane, W.
Coleman, Everard Home, Esq., F.R.A.S. Registry and Record Office, 82,
BatinghaU-street, E.C.
Colca, Charles, Esq. 86, Great Tower-street, E.C.
Coles, James, Esq. 26, Maloem-road, Beeston-tuU, Leeds.
Coles, Jno., Esq. Mitdusm, Surrey.
Collett,* William Rkkford, Esq. Carlton Clvb, S.W. •
Collingwood, Lieat W. India^ffke, S. W.
Collins, Wm., Esq. 3, Park-terrace East, Glasgow.
CoUinson, John, Esq., C.E. 13, Palace-gate, W.
Collinaon, yioe>Admiral Sir Richard, k.c.b. Haven-lodge, Ealing, W'.; atxt
United Service Club, 8. W.
6S8 d t
xxxvi
List of Fellovcs of thB ^^^^^^^^H
mmtiaa.
1871
CollU,* Capt. GusUvtti W. Berry (6th Rojal Regimnt). BarUm-terracet
Daalith, Dmon,
1878
Colomb, Captaia J. C. R. DrovanqniMM, Kenmnre, Co. Kerry; and Junior
United Service Club, S. W.
1862
Colqulitoun, Sir Patrick M. d«^ q.c„ LUd, 2, King's- Bgitch-aatk, Tempk, E.G.
1869
P-
Col»ill, Surg.-MBJor Wiltiam H., Ind. Array, BagfuLtd, Turkish Arabiti, Care
of Messrs. Gellatltf, Hankey and Co., 51, PalUmaU, 8.W.
1861
ColTille,* liight Hon. Lord. 42, Ealm-place, 8. W. J
1865
Colvin, BinDf J., Eiq. 17, Elvaston-ptace, Q\uen'a-giite, S.W. ^^J
1868
Colrin, CapUin W. B. (Royal Fusiliers;, ^^M
1868
Combe, Lieut, B, A.
1871
Comber, Colonel A. K. ( rt^p.-Commluioner of Assam, Ooalpara). Cart of
Messrs . Woodhead and Co., 44, Charing-crost, S.W,
1879
P-
Comber,* Rev. T. J. Care of A. If. Baipnes, Esj., 19, Castk-tlreet, Botbon,
E.G.
1864
Commerell, Admiral Sir J, E , v.c, K.c.n.
1876
Congr«T«, Ch»s. R., E»q. Care of R. J, Omgme, Esq,, Qir/»i»"w*i Cistt*"
DwgUts, N. B.
1876
Conlan, Geo. Nugent, Esq. Titdi-houK, Kingstown, Co. IhMin. j
1878
Ceode, Sir .lohn, Knt., c.i:. 35, Xorfolk-ixjiiare, Hyde-park, W. ^H
1872 1
Cook,' F. L., Esq. 24, JTyde-parh-gardens, W. ^^^
1808
I'. 1
Cook, H., Esq., M.D., &c. ^^M
1859
Cooke, Lieut. -Col. A. C, n.E. Ordntinae-hotue, Soutfutrnpton, ^^H
185()
Cooke, Jolin George, Esq. ^^^|
1852
Cooke. Robt. F., E«q. 50, Alhemarle-streH, W, ^^|
1860
Cooke, Willljim Heary, E»q„ Q.c. 42, Wimpole-street, W. ^^|
1874
Cooke, Cipt. W. S. (22nd Regiroeot). Malta. ^H
1872
Cookson,* F„ Eskj. 35, Grand Parade, Brighton. ^^1
18:^0
P-
Cooley, William Desborough, Esq. 55, Croiendah-road, Camden-tovm, ll.W, J
ie7»3
Cooling, Eulnrin, Esq. Mile Ash, Derby. I
187S
Coombe, Edward, Esq. 25, Tlte Terrace, GreenhUhe, Kent. ^J
1373
Cooper, Alfred, E»q. 9, Henrietta-street, OavemUah-aquare, W. ^^M
1872
Cooper, Commr. B. J., R,N. ^^M
1877
Cooper, Charles E., E«q. Obtervatory-Kouie, Kingsdown, Bristol. ^H
1862
Cooper, Sir Daniel, 6, De \'cre-gardcns, Kensington-palace, W.
1856
Cooper, Lieut.-Col. Edward H. {Grenadier Guards). 42, Porlman-Sqruare, W.
1860
Cooper, Lient,-Col. Joshua H. (7lh Fuiiliers). Dvaiboden, MuUingar. J
1878
Cooper, Percy H., Esq. Bulliretl-halt, Nottingham, ^^J
1874
Cooper, William White, Esq. 19, Berkeley-square, W. ^^M
1876
Coote, Algernon C, P., Esq., u.\. L<furel-hdje, Bamet, ^^H
1857
Coote,* Vice>Adrairnl Robert, c.B. '^Shales," Bitterne, Sovthatr^on. ^^H
1878
Coplaud-Crawford, FitxgerolJ Haniltoii, Esq. SudbHry-lodge, Harrow, |
1874
Copland-Crawrord, General R, F., R.&., f.o.b. Svdbury-Mge, Harrow, JAddZfl
69S ^J
^H
Botfol Oeoffraphieal Society,
xzxix
1853
1868
1868,
1860 i
1877
1868)
1873*
1874
1869
1853
1875
1876
1875
P-
1856
C.
1873
1877
1873
1874
1875
1875
1862
1857
1854
1S71
1879
1874
1865
1870
1875
1867
1873
1857
1875
1848
C.
1879
Coplej, Sir JoMph William, Bart. Tiraeellerf aiA, Pail-maU, 8. W.
Cork, Nathaniel, Eaq. Ontaul-lunM, Sutton, Surrty.
Comer, William Mm*!, Eaq. " Smnynde," 1 9, LmtgUm^nM, Upper Sydenham.
Comwell, James, E*}., ph.d. Pwbrook, Crescent-wcod-nad, Sydnham-
AiU,S^.
Corscaden, John F., Esq. 24, SbOand-park, W.
C<n7, FmJeric C E«q., m.d; PoHlcmd-tUk^ BtKihunt^iU, Euex; and
Sauau^actf Ooatmercial-rcad, E.
CoewD, Capt. Znjiliua Albert de. Fyi-arnft-hoiW!, Chertaey, Surrey.
CtHoa,* Bnrpoiic Pyrav/t-houst. Cherttey, Surrey ; and 38, But St. Doming,
3t, ffermflin, Paris,
Coiter. GuiUaoiDe F., E*q. 11, Park-cre$eent, Begenet-park, N. W.
Cmwst,* Winrnm Halliday, Eaq.
Cotes worth, Wm., Eaq. QKBdenknmees, BoxbwghMhire, N. B.
Cottarill, ReT. G. E. 5. Arlington^Oai, Brighton.
Cotterill, H. B., Eaq., b.a. 10, S<;hii:ehet-ttrm!ie, Dreadm.
Cottwiw, Right Hon. Lord. 20, Eaton-place, S.W. ; and Swanboume, Window,
BvdmgJKitnshirf,
Cottrill, Kolm-t AitV«l, Eiiq. Sptith&rw-grtme, Suiilmry, Middlesex.
Couch, Rij^t Hon. Sir Richard, KiaU 25, Lindm-j^r^ma, B<^/$water-road, W.
Courtenaj, J. Irjing, Esq. 3, Pbucdm-buiUings, Tempie,E.C,
Courtney,* Heaty NichoU^ Esq., b.a. % Little SU>nhope>^treet, Muyfair, W.;
tmd National Ulabf Whitthall-gardena, 8. W.
CorlogtoD. R«T. W., Vicar of St. Luke'a. The Vioarage, Brampton, S. W.
Coward, Dr. John W. S. Care of Messrs. Hollams, Son and Covard, Mincing.
lane, E.C.
Coward, Willwra, Eaq. 41, Pen^yHeem-road, S. Kensington, S. W.
Cowdl,* Lieat.-Col. Sir J. C, r.k., k.c.u, BucHdngham-paiaee, S. H'.
Cowley, Norman, Esq. 4, Montagu-piaci, Montagu-equare, W.
Cowper, Henry Ang. (CoiuQl-GeaenJ at Cuba). Care of Messrs. Woodhead
and Co., 44, C/uirintj'Cross, S.W.
Cox, Slajor-Geaeml Jshn William, c.B. ffuntlfy-lodge. Queen* s-place, Southsea.
Coioo, Samuel Bailey, Esq., f.qa Usworth'hall, Durham.
Coyah, John S., Eaq. 21, Linden gardens, W.
Cracroft,* Bernard, E*|., m.a. Tnn. Coll. Camb. Oxford and Cambridge Club,
S.W. ; and 1, Stanf mi-row, Scuth A'ensit^ton, S. W.
Cragoe,* Thos. Adolphus, Esq. Wocdbtiry-rUla, Jhtro.
Crane, Leonaitl, E«q. u.D, 7, Albemarle-strcet, W.
CnoAird, George Ponwnby, Esq. Buenos Ayres; and Thxetilerf Club, S. W.
Craafiird, Lieut.-Geiversl James Robertson (Grenadier Guards) Traeellers' Club,
8. W. ; and 36, Pritus^s-gardms, S. W. *
CraTcn, Alfred, Eiq, Bro&h/ield-hoHse, Folkestone.
Crawford, Robtrt Wigrsni, Esq. 11, Wanoick-square, & W.
Crawford, Major^Genend S. Wyiie. Union Club, New York.
730
lUaaCioo.
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^H
1876
Crawk-y, Wm. Joliti Chetwode, Esq., LUa, F,G.S., &c 3, Ely-place, Dublin.
187 3
Cneswell. Alf. Aug,, Esq. 12, Segent's-park-road, JV.W.
1861
Ci-Mwell, RsT, Samuel Francis, D.D., F.K.AJ. Northrtppt^reclonj, Norvkh,
1880
Cn«re, Hugo Harpur, Esq. CM«-abbcy, b«rhyshire.
1859
Creyke,* Captain Itkbard BoTntoo, B.N. Grint/Urpe-hall, FU«y, TorkAire.
1877
Ciitpc, James, Esq. Ixatherhead. ^h
185,6
Croker, T. K. DilloD, Esq. 19, Pelham-plaoe, Brompton, S, W. ^^|
1864
Croll, Col. A. A., C.E., F.aj., NeUierUnds. Oranard-lod'je, lioeftampton. 1
1868
Croll, A lei., Esq. Mavi$4ank, Orange-road, Upper Norwood, ^^J
I860
Croakef ,* J. R»iD«]r, Esq. 9, Portidovm-road, Maida-wile, W. ^^|
1877
CroeM, Captain Arthur T. (52Dd Regimeut). Alderahot. ^^^
1862
CraMaum, Junes Hi scutt, E*q. Zl, Ciirxon-atrcet, J^fay/nir, W. ^^H
1875
CroKtnan, Lieut-Colonel W,, R.E., c.M.a. 30, Jfarcourt-ttrraee, BedcUife-
tqmre. S. W.
1879
CraUierB,Wni. Edmund, Esq. 47, VMoria-aitrctt, Belfast; and BotcaiiXiMniU,
Bel/ait.
18t!3
Crowder,* Tho^ Mosley, Esq., K.A. Corpus Christi ColUye, Oxford.
1874
Crowp, Frondo, E^„ IX.D. 22, \Ve$tboume-park-r<xid, V>'. ^h
Cruikshank, Dotutld, Eiq. Bmcontfield CM, BaU-mall, S. \V. ^H
1872
1859
Cull, Richiird, Esq., fj.a. 12, Taviatockstreet, Bedfordsquarf, W.C.
1874
Cummiog, Chas, Lennox B., Esq. (Mndni» Ciril S«n'ice). Care of Mcurt,
Forfm, Foi-bet and Co., 9, Kity WHliam-atreat, E.G..
1857
Cummiug, Uilliaiu FiillAitoo, Esq.* m.d. Athenmtm Club, S.^V. ; and
KinelUm, Edinburgh.
1877
Conha, J. G(»w>n da, Esq., U.D. Boyal Asiatic Socitty, Bombay,
18«0
CuuJifli", Itoger, HJsq. 10, Qu^en's^gate, S. W.
I8.i3
Ctinninghnrn, John Wm., Esq., Sec King's College. Sonurtet-houK, W.C. ; amd
Marrow.
1862
Cuaynghanw,* Gen. Sir A. T., o.cj. 10, Eaton-terrace, Eaton-iquare, S.W.
1872
Culling, Rfv. J. Jas. Cara of Sir Bryan Bobinton, 9, Gordon-place, Campdetk- '
hill, Kensington, U'.
1877
Currie, Donald, Esq., c.Ji.c, M.P. 13, ffyde-parh-place, W.
1877
Cnrrie, RiUkea, Esq. Jlinley, Uampthire. ]
1843
Canetjee,» Manockje*, E«(., r.s.8.M.A. Villa-BycuHa, Bombay. ^^M
1839
Curtb,* Timothy, Esq. ^^M
1872
C.
Cost, Robt. N««dhani, Esq. 64. 81, Georg^t-tquare, S.W. .^^^
18«7
Cuttance, John' Fnw. J., Esq. Cleveland-house, OreviHe-road, Kilbttm^t
N.W. 1
1873
CMmikow, C«s«r, Esq. 29, Mincing-lane, E.G. 1
751 ^J
Bcyal Geograpkhal Society.
xli
Ta*«r
1859
1871
1878
1877
1874
18S8
1877
1879
1863
1873
1869
1873
1879
1866
1866
1875
1877
1846
1874
1875
1840
1879
1877
1875
1877
C. p.
Dukm, Arthur Ja&, Eiq.
Dde, Langham, E<q. Dept. of Public Edvoatm, Cape Zbtcn. Care o/Mmn.
King and Co., Cornhill, E.G.
Dalgety,* Fred. G., E»q. 16, Hyde-park-Urrace, W.
Dallas, Sir Geo. £., Bart. Foreign-<^ffice, Douming-ttreet, S.W,
D' Almeida, W. B., E«q. 19, Oreen-park, Bath.
Da]t<m, Charles, Esq. Percy-house, Tmckenham^park, S. W.
Oaltoo, D. Foster Grant, Esq. 8hank»-hoiue, near Witcanton, Somenet.
Dalton, HajoT^eneral Edw. T., CAi. Queen Anm/^a-manaiaM, 8.W.
Daly, Chief Justioe Chas. P., ll.d. (President of the American Geognrpliical
Sodatjr, New York). 84, Clinton-place, New Fork.
Dalyeli, Sir Robert Alexander Osbom, Bart. Traveller^ Club, PaU-mall,
8.W.
Ikniell,* Colonel E. Staines. HamUton-houae, Odiham, Hampthire; and East
/ndui United Service Club, 14, St. James'tsquare, S. W.
Danaon, William, Esq. 2, Eton-road, Haterttock-hUl, N. W.
Darbishire, Godfrey, Esq. Victoria-park, Manchester.
Darroch, Geo. Edw., Esq. 40, Stanhope-gardens, S. W. ; and Oxford and Cam-
bridge Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
Darwin,* Charles, Esq., X.A., F.R.8. Down, BeckenJuan, Kent.
Darenport, Samuel, Esq. Care of H, D. Davenport, Esq., The Orange, Ealing,
W. ; and Beaumont, near Adelaide, S. A.
Daries, Rev. Edw. Aug. Shady-tree-house, Middleton, Lancashire.
Daries, Sir R. H., K.cs.i. Care of Messrs. Twining, 215, Strand, W.C.
DaTies, Rer. R. V. Foithfull. Trinity-college. Eastbourne.
Daries,* Robert E., Esq., J.p. Cos/iam-house, East Coshain, Hants.
Daries, W. Hy. Esq. 51, Tregunter-road, South Kensington, S.W. ^
Daris, Rer. Charles. 10, Cromwell-street, Gloucester.
Daris, Edmund F., Esq.
Daris, Frederick £., Esq. 20, Blandford'Sq^tare, N. W.
Daris,* Commr. Hugh, R.K. Army and Kavy Club, Pall-mall.
Daris, Israel, Esq., m.a. C, King's-Bench-walk, Temple, E.C.
Daris, Sir John Francis, Bart., K.C.B., I-.B.S., f.e.S.n.a. Atkenavm Club, S.W. ;
and Hollywood, near Bristol.
Dawes, Edwyn, Esq. Heathjield-lodge, SurbHon.
Dawnay,* The Hon. Guy C. 8, Belgrave-square, S.W.; and Bookham-grove,
Leatherkead. '
Dawnay,* The Hon. Payan. Beninghorough - hall, Newton -vqpon- (hue,
Yorkshire.
Dawson, Lieut. Llewellyn S., Bjr, Hydrc graphic-office. Admiralty, S.W.
Day, Freiterick, Esq. South Molton, North Devon.
Daymond, Rer. Charles, M.A., Principal of St. Peter's College, Peter-
borough.
Dean, F. J., Esq. Sutton-place, Sutton-at-Bone, near Dartford.
796
sUi
Liit of Fellow* of the
1
rmtol
1879
1878
1865
1866
1874
167&
1870
18S6
P-
1870
166&
1869
187»
1882
P-
1860
1876
1875
1876
1879
1874
1872
1871
1853
C.
1877
1875
1875
1872
1874
1674
1877
1187
1659
1877
1872
1670
1670
1862
1866
Deone, Lieut-Colonel Bonu-. 81, Dcnbijh-slreet, Belgrate-road, S.W.
D«*de, Joho Richard, Esq. Care of Messrs. H. S. King and Co., PaU-maU,
S. W.
Hetary, Her. TJiorawi, M.A. Alhencewn Club, Pall-mall, 8, W.
Debenham, Willifun, Ecq. 41, Grom-tnd'road, Si, John's-tnood, N, W.
De BtaqHiire, Capt. Lord, R-X. Scicntifio Clvb, 7, Savik-rovo, W. ; and Spring-
fild, Crawley, Sussex,
I)e Bourgbo, Thomas J., Eiq. 161, Brtcknock-nad, Tufticlt-parkt N, W.
De Cretcpigny, Aug. C, Eaq. London and County Club, Langham-place, W.
De Crrspigtir. Lieut C^ ii.N. Care of Messrs. King and Co., c>5, CornAill, E,
DekcjKT,* P., Etq. Chatham-hovse, Orove-road, Ciapham-park.
Dt L«iki,* A., Esq. 2, Adelaide-oretoent, Brighton.
De LeoD, Dr. Haoanel. 26, Redclifft^ardent, West Brampton, S,W.
Detmege, Antliony A., E»q. 17, St. Jlelen's-ptace, E.C.
Deaham, Vioc-A>lm. Sir Henry Mangles, r.R.8. 21, Cartlon-road, MaSAt'tdk, W,
Denison, Alfred, Eim|. 6, AUtemarle^street, W.
Denman, Hon. Geo. 11, Palace-gate, Kensington, W.
HtDBj,* £<iwnrd llaynard, Eaq. 55, Manchester-street, W.
Detinj, Thoraaa Anthony, Esq. 7, Cwnaught-phoe, VK; and BwdingtcooJ,
Ifortham.
Dent,* Alfred, Esq. 29, Chesham-slreet, S. W.
Dent, Cliuton T., Eaq, 29, Chcsham-street, S.W.
Dent,* Edward, Eiq. Femacres, Palmer, near Slough, Bueki.
Dentry, James, Esq. T7te College, Margate,
Derby,* Right Hon. Edward Henry, Earl of, P.C., LL.D., D.C.U 23, St. Jtunes'^
tquart, 8. W, ; and Knowsky-park, Prescot, Lancashire.
Deny, Fradericic, Esq. 31, Upper Uocktey-street, Birmingham,
De RiccI, UoD. Ju. H., Chief Justice and Preaident LegisUtive Council, Bahaauu,
Care of the Coloni,d Office, S. \V.
De Salit, Wm, Fiine, Esq. Dawtei/'COurt, Uxhridge,
Dennond, Rer. H. M. Egan. 31, Beltiie-park, X',W,; and London ami
We^minster Bank, I, St, James's-square.
Deras, Thonuis, E»q. Mount Ararat, Wimbledon,
Derereiu, W. Coi>e, Esq., n.N. The Anchorage, Chislehvrst.
De Vitre, Rev. George, U.A. Keep Hatch, WohiDgham, Berks.
Derooshire,* Hi* Grace the Duke of, K.<i., i.L.t)., D.C.L., r.R.8. Dnonihirt
house, PiccadUly, W. ; and Bardwicke-hall. Derbiishirc.
De WeMlow, Lieut. Prai. G. Simpkiiuon. 67, Vtctoria-slreet, S. W.
Dewdncy, George, Esq., B.A. Btlle-nu, Chepstou.
DhnlMp^iogh, Hit HighneM the Maharaja. Elvedon-kaU, ntar Tftet/ord.
Dibdin, Charlea, EUq. 62, Torrington-equare, W.C,
Dibdin, Robert W., Esq. 62, Ibrrington-sqxiare, W.C,
Dick, Captain Charte* Cramcnd, St. Stephens Clvb, Westminster, S. W.
Dick,' FlUwilliaiD, Esq. 20, Cureon^treet, Matjfair, W.
833
4
Boyal Geogntphieal Society,
zliii
1875
I860
1859
1860
1859
1856
1879
1880
1873
1872
1878
1880
1873
1877
1873
1876!
1854 !
1876 '
1870 !
1876 1
1873 1
1868
1870
1868
1875
1871
1879
1879
1874
1871
1878
Didc, Robert Kwr, Eaq. (Bengal Ciril Senrice). Oriental Chb, W.
Diddnson,* Frands Heniy, Em}., tj.a. 121, St. George'$-iquare, Pinilico,
8. W. ; and Ki»giM$t<m-park, Somerset.
Diddnson, Thomas B., Esq. 19, Chethamrroad, Brighton,
Didcson, A. Sanson, Esq. 12, Old-»qtiarg, LiMooht't-im, W.C.
Diduoa, John, Eaq. Seyrout. Care of 0. C. Shaw, Eaq., Ut^on Bank cf
London, 2, Prinoea-ttreet, E.C.
Dickson,* Oscar, Esq. StoekMm, Care of Messrs, Dickson Bros., 6, Moorgate-
street, E.C.
Diets, Bernard, Esq., of Algoa Bay. 3, Dorset-square, W.
Digbj, G. Wingfidd, Eaq. Sfterbome-castle, Dorset.
Digby, Lieat.-Cdonel John Almeroos. Ckabnington-house, Cattstock, Dorchester,
Dilke,* Sir Charles Wentworth, Bart, M.p. 76, Sloanestreet, S. W.
IMllon, Viscount. 113, Victoria-street, S.W.
Dfanmer, Augustus Henry, Esq. Ormonde-house, Byde, Isle of Wight.
Dimsdale, Joseph C, Eaq. 50, Comhill, E.C.
Dineen, Thonoas, Esq. 17, Queen^treel, Leeds, Yorkshire,
Dirett, Edwd. Ross, Esq. Beform Club, S.W.
DixoD,* James, Esq., Jan. Kingswood, Clapham-park ; and 81, QraoechuriJi'
street, E.C.
Dix<m, John, Esq., C.K. Chouhra, Surbiton,
DizoB, Joseph, Esq. HilUbn;f-hall, Sheffield.
Dobaon, George, Esq. Oakfield, Bomilly-road, Cardiff.
Dodd, Jno., Esq. Tamswi, Formosa.
Dodson,* Geo. Edward, Esq. Ravensknotole, Anerley, S,E.
Dodson, Right Uaa. John George, m.f. 6, Seamore-place, Mayfair, W.
Doran, Colonel John, c.n. Percy-house, Leyland-road, Lee.
Dorchester, Dudley Wm. Cnrleton, Lord. 42, Berkeley-square, W.
Dwe, Henry J., Esq. 38, Bruton-ttreet, W.
Doria, Harchese Giaoomo. Oenoa. Care of Messrs. Kirkland, Cope and Co.,
23, Saliabury-Hreet, Strand, W.C.
Donglas, John, Esq.
Douglas, Hon. J.
Douglas, Captain Neil D. Cecil F. 1, Morpeth-terrace, Victoria-street, S. W, ;
and Guards' Club, S.W.
Douglas, Lieat.-General Sir Percy, Bart. Henlade-house, Tatmton, Somerset.
Doughu, SUwart, Esq. Oriented aub, W.
Douglas,* W. D. U., Esq. Or<Aardton, Castle Douglas, N. B.
Douglas, William, Esq., M.n. Care of James Ogston, Esq., Messrs. D. and C.
Mcltet's, 8, Water-street, Liverpool.
Dovling, Edward Samud, Esq. 14, ffoUand-villas-road, Kensington, W.
Down, J. H. Langdon, Esq., I1.0. 39, Welbech-street, W. ; and Xormantfield,
Hampton Wick.
Downer, lUdiard Clarke, Esq. Falcon-house, Gough-square, E.C.
869
xliv
Litt of Fellows oftlie ^^^^^^^^^H
BbcUoL
187»
Dowson ,♦ Pliilip Septimus, Ewj, Cardiff, South Waits.
1653
Dojle, Sir Francis IIa.<tingst C, Hurt, Cuatom-koatt, E.C,
1872
Drew,* Frederic, Kuq. Et<m College, Windtor. ^^H
1878
Dnijtt. ThM. Wjard, f^q. 66, Chariwj-eroas, S.W. ^^H
1869
Dnimmond,* CNptAiD Alfred Miioncni. Army and Naty Clvb, S. W. ^^H
1865
Di-umiDoad, G. A^ ILsq. Cadlunda, near Soutltampton. ^^^M
1846
Drury, Vice-Adralr»l Dyron. 4, Cam/jridge-vilias, CMietiham, ^^H
1677
Diyland, William, Esq. 38, Brooi-atreei, Grosrenor-sqwtre, ^f. ^^H
1851
Du Can*,* Mnjor Fraiicit, R.E. 2, /fardwick-f^id, Eastfjourne, Sutter. ^^f
1851
c.
Ducie,' Right Hon. Ilenrf Joba, Enrl of, F.B,8. 16, Portman-squart.W.
1875
Duckham, Joseph Hy., Esq., U.S., Dockmaster, West India Docks, Liaultontd
Entrance, E.
1875
Du Faar, Eccleston, Esq. Sydney, Xcw South Wales. Care of ilin Da Faur,
74, Lantdowiu-road, Keiuington-pork, W,
1860
c.
Duff,' Kight Hon. Mountetuart Klphinstone Grnut, M.P. Tork-Aoiue, Taiekm-
ham.
1868
Bate, Wm. Piiie, E»q. Cedcutta. Care of Messrs. JqIm WaUon and Co., 34,
Fencfiurch-sireet, E.C.
1857
Ptnt.
DulTerin,* Kight Hon. Frcdk. Temple Hamilton-Blaclcvrood, Earl of, K.P., GX.11.6.,
ILO.B., F.R.B. Clandeboye, near Belfast, Ireland.
1866
Dagdale,* Captain Henry Charles G. Meretalc-liall, Atherstcne, Waneiok.
1M7
Dugdala,* John, E»q. 1, Hyde-park-gardens ; and Lltcyn, Llanfyllin, Otteutry.
1868
Dunbar, John Samuel A., Elsq. 3, Edith-villas, W. Kensington,
1863
Dancaa, Major Fraiicu, R.A., U.A., D.C.L., LL.D. Soientifio Clvb, 7, Sofik'
row, W.
1861
Dtincan,» George, F.sq. 45, Gordon-*quare, W.C.
1875
Dattcaii, John, Esq.
1878
Duncan, William Aleiander, E»q, Herbert-terrace, Fallovfield, near Uan-
Chester.
1877
Duncan, W. H. G., Esq. Cor* of Meurt. Anderson Brothers, 16, Philpot-tans^
E.C.
187B
Dunkley, Wm. W., Esq., «.D. FJethill, Coventry; and 7, Weslminslfr-
chambers, rictoria-strret, S.W.
1873
Dunlop, Alexander Milne, Esq. 3, OU Palnce-yard, Westminster, S.W.
1875
Dnnlop, Hamilton Gnint, Esq. 11, Rockstone-place, Southampton; and Junior
Carlton CliA, S.W.
1859
Dunlop,* R. H. Wallace, Esq., C.B. (Indian Cirll Service). 12, Kenl-tjardent,
Castle-hill, Enling.
I860
Dnnmore,* Highl Hon. Charle* Adolphus Murray, Earl of. 109, Crntnieett-
road, W.
1875
Dunn, John M ., Esq. 30, Claverion-strret, St. George" s-square, 8. W, ^^—
1674
Dunn, Wm., Eiq. 95, Biskopsgate-atreet-itilhin, E.C ^^H
1867
DnnniTen, Right Hon. Wyndhara Thos., Earl of, CoonAe-wood, Kingaton^^M
Thames. 1
1875
DoDitone. J. John, Esq. 6, Brighto*r4»rrao«, Govon, Glasgow. 1
M
L .1
Royal Geographieal Society.
xlv
1870
1871
1878
1877
1869
1857
1876
1863
1864
1866
1876
1875
1861
1862
1879
1879
1858
1863
1866
1871
1868
1865
1861
1871
I860
1853
1868
1863
Daprat, Le Vioointe. Qmsal-Q^ttiral da Portugal, 10, 8t. Mary-Axe, B.C.
Darhara, Edward, Esq. Oitif'house, Little Ghetter, near Derby,
Dathie, C^ W. H., sa.
Datton,* Frederick H., Eiq. Palace-hotel, Bwshmghamrgate, 8.W.
Dyuon, John Saoford, Esq. 12, Boecobel-gardena, Jf.W.
Dykaa, William AUton, Esq. (Provost of Hamilton). The OrclMrd, Hamil-
ton, N.B.
Djrmes, Daniel David, Esq. Windham Club, 8. W.
Earie, Arthor, Esq. Childwatt-kdje, Waeertree, near Liverpool; and Wind-
ham Clvb, S: W.
East, George, Esq., F.z.8. 25, Hyde-park-phee, W.
Easton, Edward, Esq., c.E. 7, Delakay-street, Westnunater, S.W.
Eastwick, Edward B., Esq., F.a.8. 54, Hogarth-road, 8. Kensington, 8. W.
Easiwick, Captain W. J. 12, Leinster-gardens, Hyde-park, W,
Eaton, Commr. Alfred, S.N. Brook-house, Melling, near Liverpool.
2a,Um,* Henrf William, Esq., x.p. 16, Prince'e-gate, Hyde-park, 8. W.
Eaton,* William Heriton, Esq. 16, Prince't-gate, Hyde-park, 8. W.
Eatwdl, Surgeon-Major W. C. B., m.d. 69, Inverness-terrace, W.
Ebden, Alfred, Esq. Care of James 8earight, Esq. 7, East India-avenue, E.C.
Ebden,* Charles J., Esq., b.a. Coghurst-hall, Hastings.
Eber, General F.
Ebury, Right Hon. Lord. 107, Park-street, Orosvenor-square, W.; and
Moor-park, Herts.
Eden, C. H., Esq. 16, Warrcick-square, S.W.
Eitsi, Ber. Robert, Hotel Beau Rivage, Ouchy, Switzerland.
Edge, Ker. W. J., 1I.A. Combe-Martin-hause, Upper Tooting, 8. W.
Edgeworth, M. P., Esq. (Bengal Civil Service). Maatrwv-hause, Anerley, S.E.
Edwardes,* Thomas Djer, Esq. 5, Hyde-park-gate, Eensington, W.
Edwardes,* Thomas Dyer, Esq., jun. 5, Hyde-park-gate, Kensington, W.
Edwards, Rev. A. T., u,A. 39, U}y>er Kennington-lane, 8.E.
Edwards, G. T., Esq., M.A. 7, Queensborowgh-terrace, Kensington-gardens,
W.
Edwards,* Henry, Esq., m.p. 53, Berkeley-square, W.
Edwards, James Lyon, Esq, Holmxcood, Kingston-hill, Surrey.
Edwards, Colonel J. B., B.E., c.B. United Service Club, S.W. ; and ShorncUffe
Camp, Kent,
Egnton, Rear-Admiral the Hon. Francis, X.P, Devonshire-house, W.
Elder, A. L., Eaq. Campden-house, Kensington, W. ^
Elder/ Geoi^e, Esq. Knock-castle, Ayrshire,
935
LU^ Fellows of tfi€ ^^^^^^^^^^^B
1
1878
Elder. Sir Thomas. BirkijaU; Adelaide, S. Australia. Care »/ A. L, Elder, 1
Esq., Ciunpden-hDwe, Keiisinfftvn, W, I
1S«7
EJcf, OiArles John, Esq. b, Pelftam-place, Ketufltgton, S.W. ^^d
1865
6. p.
Ellas, Ney, juD., Esq. 33, Inr>emeas-terract, Bayswater, W. ^^^
2870
Ellenborongh, ColoDel Loni. ITolly Spring, Bracknell, Berks ; and 44, Eat^-
place, 8. W,
1876
BUei, JamiHon, Esq. Wimbtcdim-commoii, 8.W.
1876
Elles, Li«ut,-Col. Wm. K., C.n. Narse GiUirds, War-cffice, rail-mail, S.W.
1875
Elliot,* Colonel Ch«., C.n. WaUrimjbury, Maidstone, Kent.
1860
Klliot, G., Esq., C.K. The hall, Houghton-ie-Spring, necur Fence Bousa,
Dtirham.
1857
Elliot,* Capt. L. R. Zi MnUlorai/e-eur'Seine, Seine Jnferieitre, Care of J, L,
EOiot, Esq., (74, Albany, W.
1871
ElUol, Willimn, Esq. Care of Dr. Elliot, 93, Denm trk-Aill, S.E.
1878
Elliot, Lieut The Hon, Williani FitJwilliwD. 48, Eaion-sqtiare, S. W. ; md
Minto-houu, Httxcick, N. B.
1875
C.
Ellia, Sir Barrow H., K.C.S.I. (Mem. Council of India), 69, Crom\BtU-rwid„
S. W. ; and Indv-i-offict, S. W.
1873
Ellis, Hon. Ert-lfn H. Raleigh Club, Regent-street, S.W,
1876
Ellis, Philip, Esq, Wilfurdijrove, Nottingham.
1865
Ellis, W. E. H., Ek], Hasfield-rectory, W, ; and Oriental CM, Glouoetier
Bi/CHlla Oub, Bombay,
1871
Ellis, Walter L. J., Esq. 7, Brunsicick-place, Regenf^parh, N. W.
1874
Elmslie, Jbs. A., E»q. Crosoalt-Mije, Bedford,
1858
Elphinstone, Msjor Sir Howard C, r.c, R.E., KX.B., C.U.O. Buckingham-pttlai r,
S.W,
1875
Elsej, Joo, Green, Esq. Aforant-houst, Addison-road, Xensington, W. ^^
1872
Elwell, W. R. G., Esq. BatKutst-lodge, Spring-grme, Islexoorth. ^H
1868
Elf. John Henry Welliti;;tmi Grahnin Lofttw, Blnrquis of. 9, Prince's-^l^
S, W.; and Ely-caftte, Fermanagh.
J 877
Emery, John, E«q. J 5, Dugnall-park-vUlas, South Korunod.
1877
Enctand, Capt. W. G.. r.x. St. George' s-lodge, Ealing, W. ; and UniUd Sercio*
Clvb, Fali-mall, S. W.
1863
Englcheart, GardMr D., £«q. Duchy of Lancaster Office, Lancaattr-pttet,
w.c.
1876
Erringlon. Geo., Esq., M.P. 16, Alhan<j, W. ^J
1876
Erskine,* Hon. Chns. H. S. Alloa-park, Alloa, A. B. ^^M
1870
Eiikine, Claude J„ Esq. (Bombay Civil Service). 87, BarUy-itrnt, W. i^^
Athenctwn Club, S. W, ^^
1852
P-
Erakine, Admiral John Elphinstoae. I L, Albany, W. ; and Zoc/ifflk/,1
Stirling, N. B. I
1877
F*nntt, T, H. S., Esq. 38, Bnmpton-creKent, S, W. 1
1857
EsmeaJe,* G. M. M., Esq. 50, Park-street, Qrostenor-sqytare, W. ^^m
1877
Estoclet, Alphotts?, Esq. St, Manfs-cottege, ffaiiorer-pai-k, Peckhatn. ^^H
* I87i
Evana,* B. Hill, Esq. Devonshire-chambtrs, 17, Bishopsgate-ieithotU, RC 1
. g
L M
Jioyal Geographical Society.
xlvii
TwoT
1870
1877
1876
1857
1857
1830
1865
1867
1861
1851
1830
1865
1874
1873
1856
1857
1861
1856
1880
1873
1870
1869
1856
1870
1838
1857
1871
1879
1879
1855
1878
1874
1873
1874
1868
€t. p.
Etboi,* Edwsrd Biekerton, Etq. WhMovrns-AaU, tuar Worcesttr.
Ema, Edward Prichard, Esq. 21, Primme-hiU-^roadj Begmft-park, N. W.
Etiu, Colonel E. L. U. EaH India United Service Club, 14, St. Jamet's'
tquare, S. W.
Erana, Ckptain F. J. 0., R.K., aiL, F.BJ., F.R.AA Hydrographiooffice, Ad-
mindty, S.W.
EnoM, Thoi. Wm, Esq., us. Atteatree-iaUf Derhy.
Etnh,* W., Eiq.
Eraaa, Colonel William Edwyn. 55, Seymam-ttreet, Portman-tjuare, W.
Erana, W. Heritert, Esq. Forde Abbey, Ckardt Sonet.
Erdjm, Lieat.-Colonel George P. ffariley-memor, Dartford, Kent.
Erdyn,* William J., Eaq^ TJt.x. Wotton-houte, WUUm, near Dorking.
BTeratt,* Jamca, Esq., r.8.A.
Eforitt, George A^ Eeq, Knowle-hall, Warmckihire.
EtiU, William, Eeq. Claeertonr-house, Worcester-park, Surrey.
Ewart, John, Esq. 46, Longridge-road, Hart't-court, S.W.
Ewing, J. D. Cnun, Esq. FencAvrch-aeenve, City, E.G.
Ejre, Edward J^ Eeq. The Orange, Steeple Aeton, Oxford.
Ejn, George E., Eiq. 59, Lovndee-tquare, Brompton, S, W.
Eyre, Major-Gen. Sir Vincent, K.OJ.I. Athenamm Club, S.W.
Fagan, Capt C. S. F., B.i(.L.i. South Barracks, Wahner, Kent.
Fair, John, Esq. 50, Hamilton4errace, St. John'neood, N. W.
Fairbridge, Charles, Esq. Care of Ree. J. S. Itat, Balscott, near Banbury.
Fairfax, Captain Henry, B.N. Army and Navy Club, 8. W.
Fairholme, George Kn^(ht, Esq. Care of Mr. Bidgway, 169, Piccadilly, W.
Fairland, Edwin, Esq., M.o. (Surg. 21st Hussars). Lueknow, Oude.
Falconer, Thomas, Esq. U»k, Monmouthshire.
Falkland, Right Hon. Lucius Bentinck, Viscount. Skutterskelfe, Yorkshire,
Vaae, Edward, Esq. 14, St. Jameis'Square, S. W.
Fane, Henry Prinsep, Esq. Fulbeck-hall, Orantham.
Fane, Wm. Dashwood, Esq. Melboume-hall, near Derby.
Fanahawc,* Admiral E. G., c.b. Portsmouth.
Farler, Ven. Archdeacon J. P. Magila, Zanzibar. Care of Messrs. 0. C. Scrutton
and Co., St. Dunstan's-house, Idol-lane, E.C.
Fanner, Edmund, Esq. 10, Southwick-plaee, Hyde-parh-square, W.
Farmer, James, Esq. 6, Porchester-gate, Kensington-gardens, W.
Farquhar, Walter, Esq. Care of Messrs. Forbes, Forbes and Co., 9, King
WiUiam-street, E.C.
Farquharson,* Major-Gen. G. M«B. Breda by Alford, Aberdeenshire; and
United Service Club, Pall-maU, S.W.
I003
xlvlii
List of Fellows of the ^^M
TWkT of
ElacUoo.
1875
Fairer, Hy. Richd., Esq. 46, fdfon-pbcv^ S.W.j and Green HammcrUM-hdl,
York.
1863
F«rr«r,» W. Jm., Esq. 18, Upper Brooirttreet, W.
1876
FanuuiA, Minra lahim. (Teheran.) Care of Messrs, Grindh'j atui Co.,
55, Fariiaaient-street, S.W.
1877
Faulkner, Joseph, Esq. 101, Asylum-road, S.E. ^^J
1863
Faunthorpe,* Kev. J. P., u.A. WJiUelands Trainmg-coilege, Chelsea^ ^^M
1869
Kawcett, Captain K<iwtiiil Uoytl, Mji, 3, Dampark-terrace, Teignntouth, -DitiffU
1874
FnwKsett, Frederick, Esq,, M.u. WesUjate, Louth, Lincoljuhire. ^
1859
Fayrer,* Sui-geon-General Sir Joaepb, K.C.s.i., m.d. 16, OrantilU-place, Port-
jiiat^-square, W.
1875
Feiliien, Cnpt. Hy. WemvN, R.A. Soppijnden, Burwask, Sussex.
18T6
FeilJeu,* Lieut.-Col. 0. B. (7«lli Highlanders). 7, Sassex^ardcHS, Hijde-parh, W.
1880
Fclkin, Robert W., Esq. Etmjle-iutase, Fcnnfields, Wuioerhumplon.
1866
FelkiD, William, £m]., jun^ r.zji. Care of Mrs. H. Davmm, 8, Slrat/ord-
square, Nottingham, ^^^
1872
Feiiner, Willinto A., Esq, ^^H
188U
Fitet, Chiirjes Jnniesj Esq. 49, Edith road. West Kensinifton, W. J^^|
1875
Fei^piBon, Jdo., Esq. 10, Stapte-inn, W.C. ^^^H
1840
C.
Fergusaon,* Jamea, Esq., P.K.8., D.C.L. 20, Lanijham-place, W. 1
lB7f>
Fergusson, Hight Hon. Sir Jnmes, Bai-t,, K.C.U.Q. £ilkerran, Mai/bole, N, C ^J
1870
Ferris, Colonel W. Spiller. \, St. Michaers-gardens^ NoUing-ltiU,8.W. ^H
1871
Featiag, Major lioberl, R.E. South Kensington Miiseum, S.W. ^^|
1876
Few, Robert Hamilton, Esq. Souihiry-ij range, Litajjield-road, WimbMoH. ^^M
1874
Fielilen, Joslnia, Esq., ii.p. Nutfidd-priorf/, L'edhill, Surrey. ^^M
1878
Fielding, Cliailfs, Esq. 9, Cullum-atreei, E,C. ; and T «ru/am C/tt& «^^|
1875
Figgis,* Snmuel, Esq. Tlu) Lawn, \0h, Tulse-hUt, S.W. '^^M
1877
Finch, Jonndab, Esq. AJma-Awse, Willetden. < ^^^M
1877
Findlay, John, Esq. 24, Pr.itt'9-roail, Clapton-park, E. ^^^|
1879
Finky, Colonel J. B. ^imr// CM, 316, Regent-street, W. •
1877
Finn, Alexander, E«q. Teher(m. Care of Messrs. 1/khie, Jiormtm and Cff.f
Waterho-pLtce, S. W.
1874
Firti, Fras. Helme, Eaq. 25, Cockspur-street, S. W.
1870
Firth,* John, Eaq., J. P. Care of Messrs. R. Buckland twd Son, llop-ijardtnf,
St. Martin's-tane, W.C.
1869
Fitch, Frederitk, E»4., F.R.M.S. Hadleigh-house, Birfhburij^netc-park, N.
1876
Fit»-Adain,* John T., Esq. 5, rhillinwre-gardens, Kensington, W.
1857
Fitzclarence,* Commander tlie Hon. George, n.K. I, Wancick'Square, S.W. ^^
1872
Fitzgerald, A., Esq. Verulitm Club, 54, St. James's-street, S.W. ^^M
1874
Fttzgemld, G. V. S., £<.q, India-office, S.W. • ^^|
1861
Fitigerald, Captain Keane. ' ^^^|
1873
FiU-Gerald, H, U. Penrose, Esq. 110, Ealon-nptare, S. W. ^|
1873
FitJ!-Jame«, Fnmk, Esq., c.E. Benares, Care of W. Whiteky, Esq., Wttt^ 1
boumt-jrote, Baysusaler. 1
I0J9 ^^J
Roytd Geographical Society.
xlix
Tar of
1S74
1857
1837
1863
1861
1878
1865
1853
1857
1878
1879
1876
1877
1876
1877
1873
1864
1876
1874
1879
1861
1874
1874
1867
1873
1874
1876
1860
1873
1879
1869
1875
1874
1874
1872
1876
1872
£r. p.
Fits Roy,* Opt. Bob. (yBrMH, bj(. Uitited Service CM, PaUtnall.
Fitxwilliam, The Hon. C. W., M.p. Brooks's Club, St. JameiTtstreet, S. W.
FitswiUiam,* Williui Thonus, Earl. 4, Grosvettor-square, W. i and Wenbeorth'
home, Botherkam, Yorkshire.
Flemii^, 6., Eeq. Cathoart-lodge, l)/rvhitt-road, St. John's, 8.E.
Fleming,* John, Esq., cs.i. Wych Elm4odge, Cottege-road, Dulvcich.
Fleming, Swidfbrd, Esq., C.H.a., F.O.S. Ottawa, Canada,
Fleming, Bev. T. S. I^ Vicarage, St. Clements, Leeds.
Flerayng,* Rev. Francis P. Sgor Bheann, near Dtmoon, Argyleshire.
Fletcher, Thomaa Keddey, Esq. Unionrdoek, Zimehouse, E.
Fletcher, W. Henry, Esq. Park-4odge, Blackheath-park, SJE.
Flint, Montague J. M., Esq. Sutherhnd-house, Gunnenimry.
Flocraheim,* Lonis, Esq. 11, Byde-park-street, W.
Florence, Ernest Badinius, Esq. 9, Prince' s^ate, Hyde-park, S.W.; and
5, Pump-court, Temple, E.C.
Floyer, Ernest A., Esq. Care of Mrs. Flayer, 7, The Terrace, Putney, S.W.
Foggo, Gee, Esq. Oriental Otib, W.
Fogo, J. M. S., Esq. (Soig.-General). Army and Navy Clvlb, Pall-mall, 8.W.
Foley, Lieat.-Gen. the Hon. St. George, c.B. 24, BoltOHrstreet, W.
Foljambe,* Cecil G. S., Esq., u.r. Cockglode, Ollerton, Neitark.
Folkard, A., Esq. Thatehed-House Gub, St. James' s-street, S,W.
Follett, Charles John, Esq. 19, Queen' s-gaU, 8.W. !
Foord, John Bromley, Esq. May-viUa, Bexley-heath. '
Foot,* Capt. C.E., B.W. Care of Messrs. Woodhead and HOdtysth, 44, daring'
cross, S.W. ; and United Service Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
Forbes, A. Litton A., Esq. 53, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square, W.
Forbes, Geo. Edward, Esq. New Club, Edinburgh,
Forbes, General Jno., o.B. Invereman, Strathdon, Aberdeenshire; and Messrs,
Ibrbes and Co., 25, Coekspur-street, S. W.
Forbes, Major Jno. G., n.E. Care of Messrs. Orindlay and Co., 55, Parliament-
street, S. W. ; and U, St. James's-square, S. W.
Forbes, J. S., Esq. London, Chatham ^ Dover Railway Office, Vktoria-stat., S, W.
Forbes, Lord, U.A. Castle Forbes, Aberdeenshire.
Forbes, W. ¥„ E^. Loch-cote -house, Bathgate, N. B. ; and Castleton.
Forbea-Mitdiell, J., Esq. Thainstone, Kintone, Aberdeenshire, N. B.
Ford, Major-General Bamett (late Governor of the Andaman Isli^ids). 31,
Queen^orough-terrace, Hyde-park, W.
Fold,* Francis Clare, Esq., C.B., C.m.g.
Forde, Henry Charles, Esq., C.E. St. Brendan's, Wimbledon, S. W.
Forkmg,* Major-General J. G. R. (Madras Staff Corps). Chartered Mercantile
Bank, 65, Old Broad-street, E.C.
Forrest,* Alex, Esq., Surrey Department of Perth, Western Australia.
Forrest, James, Esq. Kirriemuir, N. B.
Forrest,* Jno., Esq. Perth, Western Australia.
1076
LiMt of FellowM of tiS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
]a*nj..n.
1874
toruman, Commr. 0. A. (Consul for P«>rtupil). PotMhefstrvom, jyannaai
Bepublic, S. Africa. Care of Vicomte Duprat, 10, St. Mary-Axe, E.C.
1S6S
Foreter, Hoo. Aothoiiy. 5, AngU*«a-terrac«, St. Ltonardt-ott-Sea,
187fl
ForaUr,* John, Esq, Oriental Club, Bamner-mjuan, W.
1839
Fcirtt«r,* Riglit Hon. William Edward, m.p, 80, Ecclestm-sqwtre, 8,W.; and
Bwriey, near Otley.
1867
C.p.
Forsyth, Sir T. DougUs, E.C.S.I., C,B. 76,]On»tovc-gardefu, S. Kensington, S. W.
1661
ForsfCli, William, Em|., M.P., q.C. 61, Rutland-gate, S. W.
18t>l
ForteKue,* Hon. Dudley F. 9, ffertford-dreet, May/air, W.
1873
Foss, Edn-ard U'illi.-iin, Esq. Frentham-Zuntie, Croydon. ^^^M
1880
Foster, Major-(jeiieml Charles, C,B. 7, Montagu- s/juare, W. ^^^|
188fl
Fostor, Edmond, Esq., jun. loO, Lexham-road, CromKeU-rwid,W, ^^^|
1878
Foster, Non-is T„ Esq, Adolaide-atrect, Vauxhall, Birmingham, ^^^|
187<3
Fostir, n. G., Esq. 4, St. Jainea' s-place, Gloucester. ^^H
1870
Foulkes, Rer. John, Bangalore. Care of Messr$. Orindlay and Co., 55, Par-
Itamentttreet, S. W.
187a
Fowler, A, Grant, Esq. Care of Alex. Denoon, E$q., Beckenham, Kent.
18153
Fowler,* J, T„ Esq. Care of Rev. A. WiUrn, M.A,^ National Societi/s Dep6t,
Sanctuary, Wettminater, S. W.
1872
Fowler,* John, Esq., C.E. Thomwood-iodge, Campden-hUl, W, ^_
185U
Fowler,* Robert N., Esq., K.P., U.A. 50, Comhill, E.G.; and Tottmkaiti^^^
1866
Fox, D, If., Esq,, Chief Eng. Saatosand St. PaulQ Railway, 8t. Panh, BnuST
Caro of G. If. Ilittier, Eiq., Ill, Gresliaiifhoute, Old Broad-ttreet, E.C.
lBtJ4
Vol.* Fraoi-ia E., Esq., B.A. Uplands, Tamerton Foliot, Plymouth.
1870
Fox, Francis Wm„ Esq, Dmomhire C/ui, St. Jameia-itreet, 8.W.
187*>
Foi. Lieut, T. A., tt.N,R. Care of Messrs. U. S. King and Co., 65, ConSm,
E.C.
1879
Francis, Fi-ederick, Esq. iQ, Courtfield-gardent, Sauih Ken»ngtm, S.W,
1865
Fninlcg,* Aug. W., E^. 103, Victorvt-atreet, 8.W. ^H
1860
Franks, Charles W., Esq, ^^H
1862
Fmser, CapUin H. A., l.N. Zanzibar.
1874
Fraaer, Jm. Grant, E«q., C.e. 9, Great Queen-Street, Wettminster, S.W.
1866
Frwer, Captain T. Care of Messrs. Orindlay and Co., 55, Parliament-stroetj
S.W.
1868
Fm.Ur, Alex., Esq. H.M. Consul, Tamtuy, Formosa. Care of James FixUcr,
Esq., Tovn'house, Aberdeen.
1879
Vmxtr, John, Esq. Sydney, Nete So^k Wedes ; and T2, Cbrnhilf, E C.
1872
Fredrichsen, Aug. Daniel, Esq. St. Huberts^ Eayne-road, BechenXj^^M
1873
Ffwiand, H, W., Esq, ChicAester; and Atkenaum Cliib, Pall-mall. ^H
1878
Pre«liog, Sir Sonford, K.C.M.G. (Governor of the Gold Coast Colony). 2, T'yeydl^l
terrace, Clifton, near Bristol, 1
1868
Freeman. Henry W„ Esq, Thirlestaine-hall, Cheltenham. 1
1869
Fieke, Thoma* George, Esq. 1, CromvelUiuuses, Kensington^ S.W. ^M
^H
J
1843
1877
1830
1867
1869
1873
1877
1874
1876
1876
1863
1865
1860
1868
1878
1866
PRE8.p.
Cpu
1863
1875
1878
1878
1877
1872
1855
1869
1873
1848
1850
1871
1854
1877
VOL.
G.
C.
C.p.
XLIX
Royal Geographical Society. li
Fiemantle, Captain Hon. Edmund Robert, B.x., C.B., c.u.6. 20, Eatonr-place,
S.W.
Frere, Lieut. Bartle C. A. Care of Messrs. Cox and Co., Crau/»-cavrt, S.W.
Frere, Bartle John Laurie, £aq. 45, Bedford^uare, W.C.
Frere, Bight Hon. Sir Hj. Bai-tle Edw., Bart., P.O., O.C.B., O.C.8.I., D.C.L.
Athenaim Club, PaU Mall.
Freshfidd,* Douglas W., Eaq. KiJbrooke-park, East Orinatead ; 6, Stanhope-
gardens, S. Kensington, S. W. ; and United Unioersity Club, S. W.
Freahfield,* W. Dawes, Eaq. 64, Westhoume-terrace, W.
Frewen, Bichard, Esq. Care of Messrs. Castle and Lamb, Fleet-street, E.C.
Frith, Rer. William. 3, Brunswick-villas, Cambridge-road, Tumham-green.
Fry,* Frederick Morris, Esq. 14, Montague-street, Butsell-square, W.C.
Fry, Rer. Henry John. 57, Vincent-square, S. W.
Fuidge, William, Esq. 5, Fark-roa, Bristol.
Fuller, Thomas, Esq. Trayton-house, Bicftmond-hill ; and United University
aub, S. W.
Fussell, Rer. J. G. Cnny. 30, Pembridge-gardens, Bayswater, W. ; and
XUoskehane-castle, Templeinore, Ireland.
Fyfe, Andrew, Esq., M.D. 112, Brompton-road, S.W.
Fynney, F. B., Esq. Maritzburg, NataL Care of B. J. Mann, Esq., 5, Kings-
domk'XnUas, Wandsvcorth-comman, S. W.
Fytche, Lieut-General Albert, cs.i. Pyrgo-park, Havering-atte-Boicer, near
Bomford, Essex; and Reform Club, S. W
Gabrielli,* Antoine, Esq. 21, Queen' s-gate-terrace, Kensington, S.W.
Gahan, C. F., E^q. Royal Naval Hospital, Qreat Yannouth.
Gahan, Frederick, Esq., CE. Maherabeg, Donegal, Ireland; and Irish Church
(Sub, Dublin.
Gatbraith, James W., Esq. Care of Messrs. Patrick Henderson and Co., St.
Vincent.place, Glasgow.
Galbraith, Wm. Robert, Esq., CE. 91, Finchley-road, N. W.
Gale, Henry, Esq., CE. Care of Mr. A. S. Twyford, 5, Southampton-street,
Bloom^mry, W.C.
Galloway,* John James, Esq.
Galsworthy, Frederick Thomas, Esq. 8, Queen's-gate, Hyde-park, S. W.
Galsworthy, Robt. Herbert, Esq. 61, Gloucester-place, Portman-square, W.
Galton,* Captain Douglas, r.e. 12, (duster-street, Oroavenor-place, S. W.
Galton,* Francis, Esq., m.a., f.b.8. 42, Rutland-gate^ S.W.; and
Athenaum CliA, S.W.
Galton, Theodore Howard, Eaq. Hadtor-house, Droitwich,
Gammell,* Major Andrew. Drumtochty, Kincardineshire, N. B.
Gardiner, Chas., Esq. The Temple, Coring, Oxford.
1140 Q
m
KUilM
^
^^^V List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^M
1873
Gardiner,* H. J., Esq. Huntmead, EUham, S.E.
1869
^
Gardner, Christopher T., Ya(\. (H.lf. Cotustil, Kiungchota, China). Cart of Joi$t
Gardner, E»q., SabiaO'i-iodje, Eoehampton-loM.
1865
Gaitliwr, Reuv-AilmirBl G. H. Woodside, EUhatn.
1876
Gardner, Henry Dent, Esq. 25, Northbnok'road, Lee. ^^|
ISrifi
Gardner, John Dunn, E*q. ^^H
187tl
Garragh, Lon], 31, Portman'iqwve, W. V^H
\m-6
Gascoigne, Frederic, Esq.
187n
Giiskin, Iler. .loaeph. Chateau. Belle Assise, Boulogite-sui^Mer. Care of
J. H. Oaaltm, Eiq., Ifoine-office. Whaehall, S. HI
1859
G«»iot," John P.. jiin., K»q. The Culixrs, Ciirthahon, Suneij.
1866
ijiiBtrell, Lieut.-CoL .Umts E. (B«nj;. SUflCorps). 7, LaiudoKne-rd., Wimbledon,
1866
Gattr,* Chorte* H., K«q^ M.A. Fetbridge-jiftrk, East Grintte(td,Suitex.
1880
riaviii. John, Esq. 27, Leadenhall-street, E.G. ^j
1873
(Tnwl«r. Colonel J. C. Towr of London, E.G. ^^|
1875
fiiiyfcr, Win., E«q., U.A., LL.O. Middle-<las$-schoftl, DronJfy, Kent. ^^M
1879
Gedgc, Sidney, E«q. Mitchamnliall, Mitchnm, ^^H
187;J
Geiijei,* Jno. Lewis, E»q, 75, Onsba-gardenn, South Kensington, S.W. ^^m
187S
Gell, Hcv, A, Hamilton, ¥.A. 4i, Enlon-square, S.W. J
1870
OellRtlj,* Kdwnit), Kaq. Uplands, Sydenham. ^^H
1665
George, Kev. H. B. N'eto College, Oxford. ^^|
1876
Ghewj,* Albert Brovra, E»q., c.EU ^^M
i8t;<s
Gibb,* George Heiiderwjn, Esq. l'^,Vict'Jria-3lre«t, Westminiter, S.W.
1878
Gibbons,* Chas. Cockbum, Esq. (H.M. Vice-Consul, Ponce, Portu Rico). Care
(if Messrs, Wood/ieaJ and Co., 4-4, Charini; -cross, S. W.
1859
c.
GiUis,* H, Hiiclts, Esq. SI. Dunatan's, Jifgnifs-park, A.W.
1873
GlbUs, James, Eiq,, cs.i. 42, Lonf/riJije-romd, South Kennmjton, S. W.
1873
GibU, Jno. Dixon, E»q. Consenatioe Club, St. James's, S. W,
1870
Gibson, Jiune» Y„ Esq. Care of Messrs. ]Yilliame and Jforgate, Hmrietlw-
street, Coeent-Oarden, W.C.
1877
G. |«.
Gilci, Ernest, Esq. Care of 0. A. Gill, Esq., Clarmmt, Stwlley-park, Mtt-
bourne, Victoria. J^H
1877
Giles, Rev. Win. TlieophUu.«, h.a. NetheHeUjh, Chester. ^^^
1877
Gilford," Rear-Admiml the Right Hon, Lord. 8, Hereford-<jardens, W. f ^H
Admrcdty, Whitehall, S. W. ^^
1874
P-
Gill, CapUinW. J., iue. 1, Edinhwrqh-mnnsians, ViotoriO'Street } ami JiMiiarl
United Service Club, Charles-street, S.W. 1
180$
GiUeiple,* WUliam, Esq. {of Torbane-IM). 46. Melnlle^treet, Edinburgh, J
1868
GiUctt,* Alfi^, £tq. ^H
1863
Gilletl," William, E«q. 6, William-street, Lomdes-sqvare, S, W. ^H
1868
Gilllat, Algernon, Esq. 7, Lancaster^ate, W.
18«3
Gillies.* Robert, Ewj., C.K. Care of JUessrs. Reilh and Wdkie, Ihrnedin,
Oiatjo, A'. Z, Per Messrs. Sampson Low and Co., 188, Fleet-street, E.C,
1674
Gilnun,* Ellis, Esq. BcrAcle^/'mansiMs, 64, Seifmour-streel^ W,
L J
Royal Geographical Society.
liu
1874
1863
1878
1874
Gisborae, Thomas Matthew, £iq. 4, Upper St. QermakCa, Blackheath, S.E.
Gladctone, George, Eaq. 31, Ventttor.mlUu, CltftonmUe, Brighton.
Gladstone, J. H., Eaq., PBJ>. 17, J>embridge-$qiiar€, W.
Gladstone,* Robert Stuart, Esq. Windham Clvb, S. W.
GlanriUe, SUraiiiu Goring, Esq. Stafford-villaa, Lewiaham High-road, S.E.
Glass, H. A., Esq. St. KUda, Vanbntgh-park, Blackheath, S.E.
Glass, James George Henr^, Esq. 28, London-street, Edinburgh. Care of
Meaere. H. 8. King and Co., 45, PaU-maU, 8. W.
Glen, Joseph, Esq., Mem. Geogr. Soe. of Bombay. Oriental Club, W.
OloTcr,* G. B., Esq. 8, Store/a-i/ate, 8. W.
I Glorer, Capt. Sir John H., R.N., O.CH.o. 27, Bury-atre^, St. Jamea'a, S.W.
I Glorer, Robert Reavelef, Esq. 22, Great St. Helen's, E.C.
I Glcver, Colonel T. G., R.E. Banoood, Heraham, near EAer, Surrey.
: Glyn, Sir Richard Geoi^, Bart. Army and Navy Club, S.W.
\ Goad, Thomas William, Esq. Care of Messrs, Coutta and Co., Strand, W.C.
Godman,* F. Da Cane, Esq. 10, Chandoastreei, Cavendiah'aquare, W.; and
Chad Okeford-houae, Blandford.
Goldsmid, Bartle, Esq. 16, Queer^-gate-terrace, 8. W .
C. p. I Goldsmid, Maj.-Gen, Sir Frederic John, k.c.s.1., C.IK 3, Observatory-atenue,
EenaingUm; and United Service Clttb. S.W.
Goldsmid, Sir Julian, Bui. 105, PiocadMy, W.
Goldsmith, Staff-CommaDder W. B., b.n.. Royal Yacht < STfin,' Portsmouth.
Goldsarorthy, B. Tuckfield, Esq., O.H.O. Army and Navy Club.
Gooch, Thomas Longridge, Esq. Team-lodge, Saltwelif Qateahead-on^Tyne.
Goodall, Abraham, Esq., F.B.C.8., Inspector-General of HosjMtals (Eietii'ed List),
4, Eloaston-place, QueetCs-gate, S. W.
Goodall, George, Esq. Junior Carlton Chib, S. W.
Goodenoagh,* Colonel \V. H., r.a. 49, Weymouth-street, Portland-place, W.
Goodhart,* Joseph Henry, Esq. Manor-house, Tooting, Surrey.
Goodinge, Jaa. W., Esq. 18, Aldersgatestreet, E.C.
I Goodliffe, Fras. Gimber, Esq, Cape of Good Hope.
j Goodliffe,* Henry, Esq. Junior Athenaeum Clvb, W. ; and Admiralty, S. W.
Goodman, Alfred Wm., Esq. Heath-house, Belvedere, Kent.
i Goodwin,* William, Esq.
Goolden,* Charles, Esq. United University Club, S. W,
Goolden, Joseph, Esq. 18, Lancaster-gate, W.
Gordon,* General the Hon. Sir Alexander H., K.C.B., M.i*. 50, Queen's-gate-
gardens, South Kensington, S. W.
Gordon, Major Edwaixl Smith, R.A. Royal Carriage Department, Royal
Arsenal, Woolvnch ; and Naval and Military Club, Piccadilly, W.
Gordon, Rev. Geo. Maxwell. Care of Major Gordon, r.a., Woolicich.
I Gordon, J. Kewall, Esq. Morro Velho, Minaa Geraea, BraxU; and 49, George-
I atreet, Portman-square, W.
; Gordon, Bobt, Esq., C.B. Care of Mr. D. Kutt, 270, Strand, W.C.
"'3 e %
liv
Eleelloo.
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^^^^M
1870
Qordon, RumcII Mannem, Esq. Cttre of Mtttrt, SobarU, LMxi and Co., 15,
Lombard'itreet. E.C.
18€6
Gor«, Colonel Augustus F. Care of Mettrt. Hallett Md Co., 7, St. i/iirtrnV
place, W.C.
1853
Gore, Richard Thorofts, E»q. 6, Qutet^^qtiare, Path.
1874
Gore, Lieut. St. fleorge C, b.e. Care of Masrs. Grindiay and Co., 55,
FarlianuiU-strect, S. W.
1879
Goren, James Newton, E«q. 6, Slone-iuildiiufs, Liutaln't^nn, W.C. i
1859
Gosling, Fred. Solly, Esq. 20. Spring-gardens, S. W. J
1875
Gotto, Hjr. Jcalcin, Esq. Croft-iod'je, Highgate-nad, ti. W. ^H
1868
Gough, Hugh, Viccount, F.L.S. Lovtgh Cvtra Cattle, Oort, Co. Oalway. ^^M
1876
Gould,* Abraham, Esq. Someraet-lodge, l\l, Adelaide-mul, N.W. ^^H
1873
Gould, Rev. Jns. Aubrej. L 4, Albany, W. ^*
1846
Gould, John, Esq., F.R.S., P.L.s. 26, Charlotte-st,, Bedford-aquare, W,C.
1867
Gmbham, Michael, E*i., u.i).
1868
Graeme. H. M. S., Esq. Care of Mean. Orindtay and Co., 55, Partiament-
ttreet, S. W.
1869
Graham, Aoircw, Esq. (Stftff Surg. tt.N,). Army and Navy Club, S. W. ^_
1858
C.p.
Graham, Cjrit C, Esq., O.M.O. ^^M
1880
Graham,* H. R., Esq. 8, Ihjde-jMrk-sqmre, 8. W. ^H
1871
Grntuim, J. C. W. Paul, E*q. Brooks's Club, St. .lames' S'Street, S.W. ^^|
187H
t
(Jraham,* Jame». Esq. Hicjhwood-honue, Kingston, Surrey.
1874
Graham, James Kenrj Stuart, Esq. 1, Belgrave-road, Shepherd's-buah, W,
1875
Graham, Robert Geo., Exq. St. Alban*, Hamptcmron-Tliitiaea.
18(W
Graham,* Thomas Cuiiinghame, Esq. Carlton Club, 3.W.; and Dw\lop-h<mt*,
Ayrthire.
1870
Grant,* AndreK-, Ek[. Invennay-houae, Bridge of Earn, N. B. ^^H
1663
I''
Grant,* C. Mit4;hel], Esq. ^H
1861
Grant, Daniel, Esq., H.r. 12, Clevcland-gardetu, Hydo-park, \V, ^^|
1665
Grant,* Francis W., Esq. AO, Pall-mall, S.W. ^^
I860
ffi. C. p.
Grant, Lieut.-Col. James A., C.n., CS.X., P.R.8. E. India U. 8, Club, S. Wl ; 1
1S», Upper- Grosvenor-street, W. ; and llousghUl, N,tim, N. B.
1675
• •iTuit, Jno., Esq. Qrampianrlodge, Putney,
1878
Grant, Lieut. John i]acpherson^(92nd Highlanders). The Castle, Ballindalloch,
N.B,
1879
Grant, W. J. A., Esq. ffHUidon, Oollunpton.
1876
GratUn. Edmund A., Esq. (H. M. Consul, Antwerp). Scientific Cfufc, Saiil*-
rtw. IF.
1873
Gray, Andrew, Esq.
1876
Gray,* ArehiUlil, Esq. 37, Holland-park, W. ; and 13, Austin Friars, E.C.
1871
Gray. Matthew, Esq. St. John's-park, Blackheath, S.E.
1875
Gray,* Matthew Hamilton, Esq. Si. Johns-park, Blackheath, S.E. ^
1873
(^ray, Koberl Ksiye, Esq. St, John'i-park, Blackheath, S.E. ^^^
18^8
Gnj, Lieut,-ColoDel WiUiam. Ihrley-hall, Beading. ^^^H
M
Royal Gec^aphical Society.
Iv
Tavar
1863
1876
1871
1876
1879
1868
1869
1879
1874
1857
1870:
1858
1858
1860
1872 '
1857 ■■
186p;
1830
1877
18B6
1837
186i
1876
1874
1878
1877
1861
1872
1877
1855
1872
1861
1876
1877
1876
1879
Greavea, Iter. Richard W. 1, WhUekaU-gardeni, S. W.
Green, Geo. P. E., Esq. 100, Qoicerstreet, Bedford-square, W.C.
Green, J<Mq>h E., Esq. 12a, Myddelton-^quare, B.C.
Green, Colonel Malcolm, C.u. 78, St. Qeorge't-road, S. W,
Green, Samuel, Etq. Wardletcorth, RochdaU.
Green, Rev. W., H.a. Chaplain to the Tower of London,
Green, M^or-General Sir W, H. R., K.C.8.I., C.B. 93, Belgrave-road, S. W.
Greene, Thomas Parnell, Esq. Poulton^ouae, Hampton, Middlesex,
Greenfield, Thomas Cballen, Esq. Perq/-Aouae, Canning-road, Croyd<M.
Greoifield,* W. B., Esq. 35, Olouoester-sqvare, Hyde-park, W, ; and Union
Clvb, S. W.
Greenup, W. Thomas, Esq. The Leys, Cambridge.
Gregory,* Sir Augustas Charles. Surveyor-General, Brisbane, Queensland,
Australia,
Gregory, Charles Hutton, Esq., c.E. I, Delahay-street, Westminster, S. W.
Gwgorj,* Francis Thomas, Esq. Queensland.
Gregson, Geoi^e, Esq. 63, Harley-street, Catendish-square, W,
Grellet,* Henry Robert, Esq. Care of M. Miaa, Esq., 41, Crutched Friars,
KC,
Grenfell, Henry R., Esq.,if.p. St. Jameia-place, S. W.
Grenrel),* Rer. Richard, V.A., F.B.S. 39, St. Giles' s-ttreet, Oxford.
Grey, Albert, Esq., Bji. Dorchester-louse, S. W.
Grey, Charles, Esq. Th» Cottage, Staines.
Grey,* Sir George, K.C.B.
Grieraon, Charles, Esq. Care of Messrs. Hamilton and Co., 32, Paternoster-
row, E.C.
Grienon, J., Esq., H.M. Consul, Coquimbo. Care of Mrs. G. J. Cruikshank,
Clair-vina, Saughtree, Dumfries.
Griesbach, C. L., Esq. Care of Messrs. H. S. King and Co., 65, Comhill,
E.C.
Griffin, Colonel James T. Seaton-house, Adamson-road, N. W.
Griffin, John, Esq. Dunster-house, Mincing-lane, E.C.
Griffith,* Daniel Clevin, Esq. 20, Gower-street, W.C.
Griffiths, Arthur Edward, Esq. 25, Talbot-square, Hyde-park, W,
Griffiths, Rer. John, U.A. Belton-rectory, Grantham.
Grindrod, R. B., Esq., m.d., ll.d., f.1,.8., &c. Townsend-house, Malvern.
Grinlinton, J. J., Esq. Colombo, Ceylon. Care of Edicard Woods, Esq., OX.,
3, Great George-street, S. W.
Grosrenor, Lord Richard, m.p. 12, Upper Brook-street, Bond-street, W.
Grove, George, Esq. Lower Sydenham, S.E.
Grover,* Major George Edward, B.E. 28, Collingham-place, Cromwell-road,
S.W.
Guillemard, F. H. H., Esq. Eltham, Kent.
Goinee, William Bernard, Esq. 7, New-inn, Strand, W.C.
1385
Ivi
Vlut of '
■
Lilt of Fellows of the ^^M
187S
Gaianets, Cecil, Eiq. Venilam dub, St. James's, 8.W.
187(J
Gunn, Arthur, Esq. 4, Oak-villas, ffampstead, JV.TT.
1861
Guanell, Ciiptnin Edinumi H., R.N. Armtf ami A'oty Club, S.W. ; vmJ
21, Argj/ll'tvad, Catnpden-hai, W.
1859
Gurney,* John II., E»q. North Iiepp», Sorwioh.
1857
fi limey, Samuel, Esq. 2(i, Hanoter-tfrr ace. Regent s-parh, X.W. ^^H
1874
Gwynne, Fms. A., Esq. \b, Bwry-street, St. James's, S.W. ^^H
1872
Gwynne,* .Inmes Eglinton A., Esq., c.K., F.s.A,, J.p.,&c. 97, HarUy-slreet, W.i 1
and Cliff-hoiise, Dovercouit, Essex. 1
1876
Gwynne, Samuel G., Eiq. S/unil'/iUI-coilege, Cannock, Stafford. 1
1865
" 4
1870
Hulicht, Claudius Eilwnrd, E$q. 23, Tttrfrness-tert^ce, Baysvattr, W. ^^M
1878
llwlwen, John Henrj-, Ea^. Park-road, Wandstcorth. ^^H
3880
Haggaid,* Edward, E»q. S. Orent Cumb^-land-place, W. ^^H
1877
Haines, C. Hcniy, Esq., K.D. t, ScMth-terrace, Cork.
1874
Hairby, Edward, Efq, 22, Vicloria-txllas, King EdwarcTs-road, S. Baokneif.
186ft
P-
Hale. Ker. Edward, M.A. Eton College, and United University C/m6, S.W.
1877
Httlford, F. B., Esq. 26, Cleceland-gardats, Hyde-park, W.
1853
Halifiut, lUght Hon. Viscount, G.C.B. 10, Bel^jroM^tqwire, S.W.; and
Hickleton, Torkshire.
1853
Holkett,* Rev. Puabar S. LittU Bookhom, Smrty.
1853
Haikett,* Commnuder Peter A., RJt.
1874
Hall, Alex. Lyon», Esq. LyoiuKourt, Ladhroko-road, Holland-park, W.
1876
Hall, Ed. Alg., Eaq. 131, Piccadilly, W, ^H
Hall,' James MitcAlester, E»q. Kilkaii-house, Tayinloan, Anjyleshire. ^^
1869
1862
Hall, JamM Tebbutt, E«q. Eastcot-lodge, Cktvcndish-road, BrotidtAury, N.W.
1671
Uall, Admiral Robert, C.B. 38, Craven-hiU-gardens, W. ; and Admiralty,
8.W.
1880
Hall, Russell King, Esq. 6, Elgin-road, Kemingtm, W.
1863
Hal), Thomas V., Em^,, f.cs. EJittgkam-house, near Ltaiherkead.
1876
H»U, Wm. Ed., Esq, Care of Hon. Sir W. S. Grove, 115, Harlty-st^tet, W.
1879
Halligey,* Kev. John Thos. FreiJk. 23, Bclmont-road, Exeter.
1878
Hallowes, Frndcia, Esq. 7, Savilc-row, W.
1873
HalpiD.* Capt. K. C. 38, Old Broad-slreet, E.C.
1871
Hamilton," Lieut. Andrew (I02ud Itegiment). Tlie House of Falkland, Fifsf
and Naval and Military Club. W.
1316 J
^
Royal Geographical Society,
Ivii
Immtt
1862-
1877
1861
1876
1869
1861
1863
1872
1846
1876
1880
1874
1876
1853
1860
1874
1879
1866
1861
1874
1870
1857
1837
1874
1859
1875
1840
1864
1864
1864
1877
1875
1871
1874
1873
1868
1871
Hamilton, Archibsld, Eiq. South Barrow, Bromley, Kent.
Hamilton, ChariM Edward, Esq. Aptky-house, WMtchurch, Monmouth.
Hamilton, Loi-d Clande. 83, Portland-place, W.; and Barons-cowrt, Co.
Tyrone.
Hamiltoq, Jao. 0. C., Esq. 54, Eaton-place, S. W.
Hamilton, Admiral Richnrd Veer. AJmiralty Office, Queemtown.
Hamilton, Col. Bohtn Wm. (Grenadier (Joardb). Ouardt? <3u6, Pall-mall, S.W.
Hamilton, Rowland, Esq. Oricnt'il Hi A, W.
H^unilton, Walter, Esq. 21, Magdalen-ierrace, 8t. Leonard" a-on-Sea.
Hamilton, Rear-Admiral W. A. Baillie. Macartney-houae, Blackheath, S.E.
HaroiBofld,* Nnvig.-Lieut. G. C, Bjr. Care of the Hydrographic-ogke, Ad-
miralty, S.W.
Hammond, H. Alfred, Esq. Aldenham^hotue, S»i»iton-hiU, 8.W.; and Royal
Ex'.hfm^e^ E.G.
Hanbury, R. W., Esq., if j>. Jlam-haU, AsMioume, Derbyahure,
Hancodr, E. H., Esq. Leigh-villa, The Avenue, SutHion.
Hand,* Admiral Gforge S., C.B. U. S. Club, S.W.
Haadlfy,* Benjamin, Esq, 5G, ElaivUroad, LcwTuter-ftili, 8.W.
Ilandky, CaptAia Francis (late I.N.). Brighton Club, 55, Old Steine, Brighton.
Hanham, Sir Jno. A., Bart. 55, WUton-road, S.W..; and Dean's-court,
Wimbome, Dorset.
Hanham, Commr. T. B., B.K. Mantton-houee, near Blandford, Doriet.
Hankey,* Blake Alexander, Esq.
HatJcey, Iteginald, Esq. 71, Chester-square, S.W. ; and Ar^ur's Club, S.W.
Hruikfy,* lEodolph Alexander, Esq. 54, Warwick-square, S.W.
Hankey, Thomson, Esq. 59, Portland-place, W.
Hanmer,* Lord, F.n.s. 59, Eaton-place, S.W.; and Hanmer-haU and Bcttea-
fieid-park, Flintshire.
Hanmer,* Philip, Esq., b.a. Chrietchurch, Nev Zealand.
Hansard,* Henry, Esq. 13, Great Qacea-sirtet, W.C.
HsuBop, R, B., Bsq,,H.A, St,Saeiour's Qrammar-school, Southaark, S.E. ; and
Surrey CtmiOy Cliib, Brixton, S. W.
Hajpourt,* E^rton V., Esq, Whitir^U-hatl, Fork.
Hardie,* GaTin, Esq. 5, Queen-street, Mayfair, W.
Harding, Major Charles. Orafton Club, 10, Qraftonrttreet, Piccadilly, If.
Harding, J. J., Esq. 1, Esmthunj-park, hlotgton, N.
Hare, ETan Herring, Esq. St, Jofin'a-prtcincis, Putttey, S.W.
Harford, Ufvi. 1 leafy Charles (99th Regiment).
Hargravc,* Joseph, Esq. Fort Garry, Wmnipeg; Manaoba, Canada. Care of
the Hudson's Bay Company, 1, Lime-street, E.C.
HargTciiYes, Wtlliam, Esq.
Harley, Colonel R. W., c.B., c.M.e. Junior United Service Club, S.W.
Harper, J. A. W., Esq. 9, Cairqfden-house-road, S. W.
Harris, Edw„ Esq. Bydal-viUa, Zongtcn-groce, Upper Sydenham.
1353
Y«ftr of
■
List ofFelhtDs of the^^^^^^^^^^^^M
Ktt€Mm.
1
1853
IlArrU, Admiral th« Hon. Sir E. A. J., K.C.tt. (H.B.M. Envoy Extraoniinary '
<ui<l Uioiiter t'leni^leDtiary, TfteJfajue, Holland). Mcssra.Woodhead and Co.
1859
Harris, Capt. Henry, }l.c.S. Sh, Glow:etter't«mKe, Hyde-park, IV. J
1879
Harris,* Ttiwxlore, Esq. The Cedars, Leighton Biutard. J
1868
HoiTtMa, Charl««, Esq. 3, Oreat Ibuw-streel, E.C. ^^H
1870
Hanuon, Ciwrle«, Etq. 10, Lanoaater^ate, W. ^^H
1877
Horriwn, Wm. Artiiur, Etq. 27, Wesley-street, Waterloo, Liverpool. ^^M
1838
c.
Harrowby, Right Hou. Dudley, Earl of, F.RA Sandon-henue, Lichfield; am^^m
Norton, Gloucestershire. J
1873
Hart, Heory Neville, Esq. 107, Harley-street, W. |
1875
Hiirt, JarriM, Esq. Winslow-house, South Nonoood. ^^m
18»8
Hurt,* J. L., Eiq. 20, Pembridgt-sqvare, W. ^|
1879
Hart, Lionel, Esq. Care of Mettrs, Samuel Dohree and Co.^ 6, TokenhiM^^%
yard, E.C.
1879
Hwl, Montagu P., Esq. 14, St. Geonjc's-t'jwire, S. W.
1854
Httrttand,* F. Dixon-, i-jq., M.P., F.B.A., &c. 14, Chcaham-place.S. W. ; and the
Oaklanda, near Cheltenham.
1874
Hartley, Sir Chas, Aug., P.B.S.E., &o. 26, Pall-maU, S.W.; and Reform
CM, PalUmall, S. W.
1874
Hartnell, I!ev. Bedford, M.A. Clifton-college, Bristol.
1875
Harvey, Alcjc. S., Esq. 9, HaV^erley-grovt, Weslhourne-grooe, W.
1878
Harvey,* Sir Gi«r]e«, Bart Rainthorpe-hall, I^ng Stratton. -^^M
180:^
\ Harvey, Charlet, Esq. Raihgar-cottage, Streatham, S. W. ^^H
1867
Hmrey, James, E»q. E*h-*treet, TmgrcargUl, Southland, Nevi Zealand. Care 1
«/ the Colonial Bank of Ntte Ztatand, 1 3, ifooiyatestrtet, B.C. j
1864
1 H»n'«7, John, Esq. 1
18S(J
; Hiu-rej-, l;icluird M., Esq. \S, Devonahire-etreet, Portland-place, W. j^H
1877
; Harvey,* Wm. C, Etq. City Liberal Club, Walbrook, E.C. ^|
1871
Harvie,* Edgar Christmai, E«q. CUy of London Club, Old Broad-street, 1
E.C. ^J
1873
Harwood, S., Esq. namillon-home, Leamington. ^^^^
1879
Harwood,* William, Esq. 31. Lombard-street, E.C. ^^^^
1875
Haskm, Aug. Fred., Esq. 14, Lavm-road, Haverstoch-liill, N.W. ^^^^|
1873
Hatliertoii, Lord. Teddesley-park, Penkrxdge, Staffordshire. ^^H
1875
Uavilland, Rcr. C. R. d^. Iter, near Uxbridge, Bucks, ^^^
last)
Hawker, Edward J., Esq. 37, Cadogan-place, S. W.
1873
Hawker, Geo. C, E»q, Can of A. Scott, Esq., Messrs. W. Jackson and Co.,
6} Austin Friars, E.C.
1876
Envkintk, Alf. Tcrapleton, Esq. 35, ^ftring-gardens, S.W.
1840
Hawkins,* John, Esq.
1658
Hawkins,* Lieut.-<Jeii. J.Summerfield, n.E. St, Leonards, St.James's'rd., Malvern.
1876
Hawkins, ReT. Joshua. The A'est, Hoviard-road, South Norwood.
1873
Hawkins, ReT. W. Bentijiok L., r.BJ. 33, Bryanston-aquare, W.
1876
ll.iwkslinir,' Sii Jolin, c.r., r.iw. 33, Great Oeorgc-itreet, S.W. ^^M
1389 ^M
I J
Aoycd GeoffraphictU Society,
lis
1861
1877
1871
1863
1853
1877
1872
1872
1874
1879
1870
1864
1871
1871
1880
1876
1878
1863
1880
1878
1861
1877
1873
1876
1871
1872
1871
1874
1853
1874
1866
1876
1875
1860
a
Hawkslej, Thomas, Esq., o.e. 14, PhUlimon-gardms, KmringUm, W.
Hazell, E. Nelson, Esq., f.o j., Netherlands. Lewgar$, Kittg^ry, Middleaex.
Haj, Andrew, Esq. Oriental CM, Hanoversquart, W. ; cmd Bombay,
Hay,* Bear-Admiral Lord John, M.p., C.B. Falmer-plaoe, Slough.
Haj,* Rear-Admiral Sir J. C. Dalrymple, Bart., C.B., r.B.s. 108, St.
Otorg^a-aquare, S. W. ; U. S. Club, S.W. { Jhmragit, Olenluce ; and Harrow-
<M-th«-kill, N.W.
Haj, Gapt. J. S. (Inspector-General of Houssa Forces). Cape Coaat Cattle.
Care of Sir Hector Hay, Bart., 2, Carlitle-plaoe, Viotoria-etreet, S. W.
B»Y, Jno. Ogilry, Esq. AAycA, Arrakan, India.
Haydon, G. H., Esq. Bethlehem Hospital, S.E.
Etjet, A. A., Jan.,' Esq.
Hayes,* Henry, Esq. Exeter Ccilege, Oxford.
Haynes, Stanley L., Esq., m.d. Malvernrlink, Worcestershire.
Haysman, James, Esq. Bwrgess-hSI, Fmehley-road, N.W.
Head, Geo. T., Esq. East-ctiff-house Orammar-school, Margate.
Head, Henry, Esq. Stamford-hUl, N.
Head, John Merrick, Esq. Belle^vue, Reigate, Surrey.
Headley, Robert, Esq. 44, Walham-grove, S.W.
Heane,* Lieut. James L., B.ir. Alte Burg, bei Aerzen, Prov. Hannover.
Heathfield, W. E., Esq. 30, King-street, St. James's.
Beaton, John, Esq. Qarden-villa, Dodvoorth, near Bamsley.
Hearen, Rev. Charles^ M.A,. l%e Vicarage, Horley, Banbury ; and Beacvns/ield
Clvb, Cattle-street, Birmingham.
Hector, James, Esq., F.E.8., H.D. Care of Agent-Qeneral for New Zealand, 7,
Westminster-chambers, Victoria-street, S.W.
Hederstedt, Henry Burdett, Esq., c.E. 72, Lancaster-gate, W.
Heeley, W. E., Esq. Cktre of S. S. Geard and Son, 3, Guildhall-chambers,
Batbttghattstreet, E.C.
Hegan,» Chas. John, Esq. Oxford and Cambridge CIvh, Pall-mall, S. W.
Heinemann, N., Esq., PH.D. 80, Uj^r Gloucester-place, Portman-square, W.
Helme,* Richard, Esq. Walthamstow, Essex,
Henderson,* 0., Esq., H.D., F.L3. Care of Messrs. King and Co., Pall-mall,
S.W.
Henderson, Henry, Esq. 24, Huntley-road, Elm-park, Liverpool,
Henderson, John, Esq. 2, Arlington-street, Piccadilly, W.
Henderson, Lient.-C!olonel K. G. Care of Sir C. M'Origor, Bart., and Co.,
25, Charles-street, S.W.; and Naval and M^itary Club, Piccadilly, W.
Hendeiaon, Patrick, Esq. Care of George Reid, Esq., 11, Crooked-lane,
E.C.
Henderson,* P. L., Esq. 14, Fenchurch-street, E.C.
Henei^, Charles, Esq. St. Jame^s Club, Piccadilly, W.
Hennessey, J. B. N., Esq. (1st Atst. T^ig. Survey of India). Dehra Dhoon. Car
of Messrs. H, 8, King and G>., Comlull, E.C.
I41J
^ ^ 3^^B^^^9^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^|
BlRitcw..
Lixt of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^H
1875
Hmriques, Alfred G., Esq. 96, Glouceittr-terraat, IJyde-jxirh, W.
1838
Henry,* \Ym. Clina., Esq., M.O.. F.tt.s. JJn^tlJ, tteur Letlbwy^ Herefordskve.
1861
Henty," Douglw, Esq. Cfiichetitr.
1872
Herbert, Chvles E., Esq.
1875
Herbert, Homce Aug., Esq. Care of Mesata. H. S. King ^ Co., 43, PaU-mall,
S.W.
1876
Merries, Edward, Esq., aB. Athmaum Club, Pall-mall, 8. TV'.
1858
Hcrtilet, Sii» Edward, en. Librarian, Foreigri-c^e, S.W.; and Betie^ntf-
hotue, ladammd.
1871
Hertslct, Geo. Thoi., Esq. Lord Chambeilain's'afficc, St. Jamafs-palaoe,
S. W.
1876
Herrey, Lord Francis, m.p. 3, Spriag-gardtM, 8. W.
1877
Herx,» Dr. Comclins. San Francisco. Care of W. F. A. Archibald, Ftq.^
2, TempU-tjarden$, E.G.
1877
Hctherington. J. Newby, E«q. 62, IIarley-str«ett W.
1861
Heugh, John, Esq. 110, Cannon-strtet, E.C. ^J
1873
Hewitt, Richard, Esq. Eimfeld, Ether, Surrey, ^^|
1840
Heywood,* James, Esq., F.R.S. Athcnxum Club, S.W. ; and 26, Kenthgm^
palace-gardens, W.
1869
Heywood, Samnel, Esq. 171, StanliOj>f -street, Ilainpsttad-road, N.W.
1860
Key woilh. Liecit.-Col. Liwrence. IViji'/i Fnirr, near Iftuipori, Montnouthahire.
1878
Iliukie, CXuiiel, E»q. 23, Queen Anms't-ffite, S.W.
1878
Hicks, Alfred, Esq. 74, Oreut RuMll-ttrtet, W.C. ^J
1867
Iliggiiu, Edinond Thomas, Esq., 1I.R.C.S. 13, Dloomtbvry-ttrtet, E.C. W^M
1877
Hight, Copt. Edward. Care of Messrs. F. Green and Co., 112, /VncAu>^^
street, E.C. 1
1856
Hill, Arlliur Bowdler, Esq. Sotdh-road, Clap/^am-park, Surrey, S. W. j
1872
Hill, CI emeu t L., iisq. Foreign-office, S. W. ^^J
1880
Hill, Fretlcrick, Esq. Ilantston, Bedford-park, W. Cnffdon. j^j^H
1873
P-
Hill, Henry, Esq. 122, LeadenkuU-street, E.C, ^^^
1874
Hill, Capt. Juo.. B.E. {SunMy of India). Calcutta ; and Artny and Navy Club^
S. W.
1873
Hill, Samuel Thonua, Esq. Mile End Commerdal-ichooU, Stepney-green, E,
1854
Hill, Colonel Sir Stephen J., k.c.m.o.. c.d. Arm^j and Naxy CM, S.W.;
and Drosford, Bishop's Waltfi'im, Hants,
1874
Hills, MsjoT-Geueral Jamc*, v.c, n. a., c.b. Care of Massrt. H. 3. Kimj and Co.^
ComhiU.E.C.
1858
Hiochliff. T. Woovlbine, E*i. 64. Lincoln' s-inn-fields, W.C.
1862
Hinde,* Samuel Henry, £«]. Ifimttam Chtb, 8. W.
1878
HlppUlev, Alfred Edward, Esq. 8, Store ij's-<jate, S. W. ; and ITtatehed-ffim*
Club,' St. Jatnes'sstrect, S. W.
1873
Hirst, William Henry, Esq. 103, Mottratn-road, Staleybridge, Cheshirt.
1873
Hirth,* Dr. F. Imperial Maritime Cvstoms, China } and 8, Slcreif t-gatt,
S.W.
14S6 J
M
Royal Geographical Society.
Ixiii
Tar of
1873
1880
1876
1857
1875
1873
1876
1877
1877
1875
1865
1875
1838
1877
1873
1877
1874
1876
1875
1874
1879
1880
1872
1876
1877
1872
1871
1871
I 1872
! 1864
1877
1870
1879
1869
1860
1874
C.
HndMn,* John, Esq. Clyda-houae, Redhai, Surrey.
Haggins, Hiutings Charles, Esq. 1], Kxldare-fjardem, W.
HughM, A. \V., Esq, Care of F. P. Baher, Esq., 4, Bmd-court, Walhrook, B.C.
Hughes, Captain Sir Frederic. Pole, Hole, Wexford.
Hughes, J. Wm., Esq. Bangor, CamarwRshire.
Hoghei, James, Esq. 328, Camden-road, N.
Hughes, Joseph, Esq. Lamboum-lodge, South-vale, Upper Noricood, S.E.
Hughes, Pringle, Esq. Middleton-hall, Wooler, Northumberland.
Hughes,* Thomas Franc's, Esq. Chinese Maritime Customs, 8, Storey' s-gaie, S. W
Hughes, Capt. W. Gwjmne. 14, Si. Jame^a-square, 8. W.
Hughes-Hallett, Major. Junior United Service Club, S.W.
HiUl, Staff-Comm, Thos. A., B.H. Noo Wook, Wimbledon, S.W.
Hume,* Edmund Kent, Esq.
Hume, Lieut-Colonel Gustarus. 115, St. Oeorge's-square, S.W,
Hunt, John, Esq. 22, Lancaater-gate, ITyde-park, W.
Hunt, W. G. Francis, Esq., Kji. 8, Duke-street, St. James's ; and Naval and
Military (Sub, Piccadilly, W.
Hunt, William Thomas, Esq. 1, Pemhridge-villas, Bayswater, W.
Hunter, Major F. M. (Bombay Staff Corps). Aden. 60, South-street, St. Andrew's,
Fifeshire, Care of Messrs. H. S. King and Co., Comhill, E.G.
Hunter, John, Esq. 9, Nevs-square, Lincoln' s-inn, W.C.
Hunter, Capt. J. Edward, R.N. Wenslcy-rectory, Bedall, Yorks ; and United
Service Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
Hunter, Colonel Mmitgomery (Bengal Staff Corps). DeOii.
Hunter, William Ley land, Esq. 26, jMrkhall-rise, S. W.
Hunter, W. W., Esq., B.A., LL.D., C.i.E. 9, Douglas-crescent, Edinburgh.
Huntingford,* Lieut. G., k.n. Ellacombe, Cleveland, Somerset.
Husband, John, Esq. QoulUm-road, Clapton,
Hnson-More, James, Esq., MU. 2, Brook-street, Cheetham, Manchester.
Hntdiins, F. Leigh, Esq. 22, Queen' s-gardens, Hyde-park, 8. W.
Hutchinson,* Colonel Alexr. Hadden, R.A., F.0.8. TetAy, 8, Wales.
Hutchinson, Edward, Esq. 8, Sumner-place, South Kensington, 8. W.
Hutchinson, Capt. R. R. Verulam Ctub, 54, St. James' s-street, 8. W.
Hutchison, John W., Esq. Balinaghie, Castle Douglas, N. B. ; and Conservatice
Club, S.W.
Hutton,* Charles W. C, Esq. Belair, Duiwick, S.E.
Button, Wilb'am Pepperrell, Esq, Kitnberley, Griquakmd West.
Huxley, Prof. T. H,, f.r.8. 4, Marlborough-place, St. John's-wood, N, W. ; and
28, Jermyn-street, S.W.
Hyde,* Captain Samuel.
Hyndman, Hy. Mayers, Esq. 10, Devonshire-street, Portland-place, W.
1565
Ixiv
List of Fellows oftlia ^^^^^^^^^|
lUwUott.
1879
Ibrahim, Helmy, P«uh». 3, Champiun-terrace, fferiert-roadf PlvauLead.
1852
llliiigworlh, lUchard Slonhcw«r, Esq, ?, Norfotk-cresctnt, Hudt-park, W,
1850
liuraf ,* Jamef Fi-e(lrrick» Km). 89. Minorits, E. ; and Beckmham, Kent.
1878
loot, Thomas Henry, Esq,, P.Z.S. Elth<nn-loJ<je, 191, JfuAfa-cofc, N. W.
1861
Ingnll,* Samuel, E-iq. Farait-liiU, Kent, S.fJ.
I8&1
ffi. C. p.
Ingleti«ld, Admiral Sir Cdward A., CO., f.r^. United Service Ciub, S. iV. f uud
99. Qu«en's-gat«t S. W.
1880
I&glis, Colooel T., R.F,. ], TaVjot-ptace, Dlackheath.
1846
lagraai, tlughes Francis, Esq. Vnivertity Clvl>, S. W.
1800
Innkip,* Cnpt. G. H., k.n. 1, ffuntiacmnbe-place, ^'orth^■roaJ, Plymouth.
1852
Inskip,* Iter. Robert Mills. o.B. 1, ffmtuoombe-ptaoe, Nort/t-roadf Ptsfmoutk.
1877
luveraritf, Geo., Esq. 13, Slanhope-(jarden$, S.W.
1870
Irvine, Jntncs, Esq. 13, Deciinshira-road , Claughton, ChetKire.
18ti4
Ir\ing,* Juliu, Esq,
180 1
Irwin, jAines V. H.. F-^. 13. n»utridge-tUlaa, St. John'i-textd, X,W. ,^^
1877
hbister. William, Exq. 56. Ludgatt'hUl, E.G. ^H
1879
Isnaoou,* F. Wootlon, Esq. \h1, Harley-strtet, "W. ^^^
1877
Jack, R, L., E$q. ^H
1873
Jackson, F. U. Wanl, Fjiq. 9, AlbitM-iireet, Hyde-park, W. ^^M
1871
Jrurksoii, Henry, E>q., Lieut, late tjs. (Chief Surreyor of the Prorfnoe ofl
Wellingtoa). H'ew Zealand. 1
1880
Jackson,* James, Esq.* 13, Acfnu4i du Bait de Boulojtm, Paris. 1
1871
JackaoD, Richd. Belgrare, Esq. 10, Leonw-d-place, Keiitington, W. .^J
1866
Jnikson. liobart Waixl, Eaq. 13l>, fticerneu-terrace, Hyde-park, W. ^^|
1871
Jidcson, Thoi. Haghes, E«^. Manor-house, Birkenhead. ^^H
1855
Jackson, William, Esq, 44, Purtiand -place, W. ^^M
1871
Jackson, Wm, Cha«„ Y.m\. 9, BaMfnAitry, E.C. 1
1862
Jnoomb, Thomas, jun., Esq. WoodcnJ, Holiirtgton, St. Letmarda-on-Sea. ^^M
1875
Jagg, Eer. F. Charles. Luddmham-rectory, Fatersham, Kent. ^^M
1878
Jngo,* Lieut.-Coloiiel Joha. Penang. Care of Mettrt, Ob^ and Co.» CraifS^
ouurt, S. W.
1880
Jama:, John 0. N., Esq, Siircei/or-Oettcral's Office, Calcullu.
1877
James, Walter Knight, Esq. Normal CvUege, Colombo, Ceylon; and 22,
Pelham-street, yottin>jltam.
1870
James, William Monis, Em). 8, L\jndhurd-road, Hainpalead, K.W.
1878
Jaiuieson, Capt. A. Wm, (*th N. I., Lucknow, Upper India). OakftUt, near Bath.
1868
Jamicson, Hugh, Ksq. Junior Carlton Club, S.W.
1877
Janrrin, A. F., I'>i. 40. Pall-mall, S. W.
1880
Japp, Alexander Hay, Esq, 13, Albiou-gquare, Dahton,
i6oo 1
I
T«ra(,
1862
1863
1863
1875
1871
1876
1879
1865
1876
1875
1854
1837
1877
1880
1874
1875
1854
1876
1880
1874
1860
1878
1873
1870
1864
1874
1878
1876
1873
1879
1876
1876
1876
1866
1873
1879
Bot/al Geoffraphieal Society,
Ixv
8C. p.
Jiiques,* Leoiuurd, Eaq. Wentbridge-hoiue, PonUfract, Torkikii-e.
Jardine,* Andrew, £«q. Lcmrick-cattle, Stirliiuj,
Jardine,* Robert, E«q., M.P. Caatlemilk, Lockerby, N. B,
Jardine,* Robert, Esq. 21, Queensbury-place, South KeiuimjUm, S.W.
Jarrad, Lieut. F. W., R.M. Care of Edw. M. Soe, Etq^ Royal Hospital
Schoolt, Greenwich.
Jetkei^ Rer. Jiimes. 54, Argyll-road, Kensington, W.
Jeffery, William Jamn, Esq, Grammar School, Bideford, Devon.
Jeffirevs, J. Gwyn, Esq., ll.d., f.RJ. Ware-priory, Herts.
I Jefiries, Wm. H., Esq. Ill, Southgate-road, Islington, N,
Jeffis Richard, Esq. 244, Eegent-street, W.
Jellicoe, Charles, Esq. 12, Catendish-pkKe,W.
Jenkins,* R. Castle, Esq. Beachky, near Chepstoui.
Jenkins, Commander R. P., R.N. 2, CambriJge-villaa, Oakfield-road, Croydon.
Jenkiuson, Edward, Esq. Admiralty, 8. W. ; and East India United Service
Cbib, St. James's-sjuare, S, W.
Jenkinstm,* H. Irwin, Esq. Keswick, Cumberland,
Jeniungs, Samuel, jun., Esq. 58, Granville-park, Blackheath.
Jennings,* William, Esq., M.A^. 13, Victoria-street, Westminster, S.W.
Jephson, Mountney, Esq. Garrick Club, Garrick-street, W.C.
Jephson, N. A., Esq. 66, Portadmcn-road, Maida-vale, W. ; and County Club,
44, Albemarle-strcet, W.
iefi^, Le Cheralier Fred. Care of S. W. Silver, Esq., 4, Sun-court, ConAill,
B.C.
Jermyn, Rowland Formby, Esq. War-office, S.W.
Jerrois, Major-Gcneral Sir \V. Drummond, G.C.u.O., C.B. {Governor of South
Australia).
Jervis, Theodore, Esq. 66, Denbigh-street, S. W.
Jessop, Captain Thomas. Honlcy, Huddersfield.
Jeula,* Henry, Esq. Lloyd's, E.C.
Jeune, Fras. H., Esq. 140, CromweU-road, S. W.
Jinman, George, Esq. 110, CoMwn-street, E.C.
Joaquim, J. P., Esq. Care of W. B, D" Almeida, Esq., 2, Pwnp-court, Middle-
Temple, E.C.
Jocelyn, Hon. W. Nassau. Care of Foreign-office, S. W.
Johns, Edward Wildy, Esq. 41, Petherton-road, Highbury, N.
J<dinson, F. Bulkeley, Esq. 5, The Mount, St. Leonards-on-Sea ; and Devon-
shire Club, St. Jame^s-street, S. W.
Johnson, Joseph, Esq. 89, Carletotk-road, TufneU-park, N.
Johnson, Murray, Esq. 20, Austin Friars, E.C.
Johnson, W. H., Esq. (CiTil Assistant G. T. S. India).
Johnston,* A., Ebq. 6, Paternoster-buildings, E.C.
Johnston, Andrew C, Esq. (Surgeon, r.n.), ii,k.q.c.f. Salen, Loch Sunart,
Fort William, N. B.
1636
H^^HRHII^^^H
Y«»of
^^^^B List of Fellows of f he ^^^^^^^^^H
1876
Johnston, Chas. Edwd., Esq. 10, Hyde-park-gate, Kenslm^iony S.W.
1878
Johiulou, Geo., Esq., m.d. 15, St. Stephm't-grem, LHiJblm.
1874
Johttston/ Capt. H. B. United Senict Club, Dublin ; and Jmior Carlton Clu\
PaU-maU, i". W.
1857
Jobnttoa, J. Brookes, Esq.
1875
JohnstoD, Robert, E«q. WoodlandSf MoniBtowHf Dublin.
1871
Johiuton, T. B.. Eiq., F.n.8,E. 16, So»ih St, Andrtic-atreet, Edinburgh.
1866
Johnstone, General H. C, CD., F.n.A.s. Huttcn-lodge, Aldridije-road, West'
boum«-park, W.
1867
Johnstone,* John, Etq. Castelnau-hmiw, Mortlake, S, W.
1873
JoliMtone, \V. Wood*, E«j., M.D. 44, Prince i-»quare, W.
1872
Jolley, Rev. William Rowc, u.a,. Moo. Chapluin to the Qaeeii. St. John'i
Parsonage, Birkenhead.
1875
Joaeu, Arthur W., Esq. 10, Eattm-tquare, S.W. .
1874
Jones Edwin, iiJu}. Fairlea, Bassett, Svuthttrnpton, ^^H
1876
Jones, Hugh H,, Esq. Larkhill, Liverpool, ^^^M
1868
Jones, CapL H. M., v.C. Care of Mesjre^ Bicker* and Son, 1, Leiceetcr-square,
W.C.
1857
Jon«», Lient.-G«uenil Jenkin, r.e. " Woodjiide," St. Belene, Ore, U>»tinjt,
1862
Jone», John, Esq. ZZ%, Strand, W.C.
1872
Jones, Stafl^omraander Jno., r.n. The Bine Bell, Wehhpool, MontgcmtryAirt,
1878
JooeSj John James, Esq. Behjrade-fmute, MeijneU-road, South Hackney, E.
1878
Jones Major R. Owen, R.K. Ordnance Svrvey-offke, 46, St. George' s-road, S. W,
1876
Jones,* R. T., Esq. 1 , St. Alban't-rotid, ffighgate-hill. K.
1876
Jones,* Thomas M. Rymer, Esq., C.E., Japan, Care of T. R. Jonet, Eiq^
62, Cornvall-road, Westbourne-park, W.
1876
Jone*, Rev. W. Taylor, mjl. The College, Sgdenkam.
1880
Jones, Walter Evans, Em). ffanoter'squnre Club. W. ^^M
1878
Joues, Sir WlUoughby, &.-irt. Cranmer-hall, FakenJt'nn, Norfolk. ^^H
1873
Jones, Winslow, Vjst\, Devon and Exeter fnstitulion, Exeter. ^^M
1878
Jones, W. J. Esq. Buckingham, ^^H
1878
Jopp, Capt. A. Abercrorabie, H.B. 18, Tregunter-road, South Ketuington, S. W.
1879
Jonlan, Her. Jowpli. 65, MaryOH-road, Charltou, S.E.
1867
JonJon,* Wm. Leighton, Esq. Cilre of Dr. lVt///ioA, 3, ChriatcAurch-rO'td,
\
Eoupell-park, Brixton, S. W.
1863
Joshua,* Moss, Esq. Biahopehalt, BUiingdm.
1876
J©yner,* Henry Datson, Esq., c.e. Yamato YatJuki, Tokei, Japan. Care of
H. S. J. Joyner, Eeg., Korthtcick-houee, Harrow.
1878
Joyner, Robert B«tson, Esq. Care of H. S, J, Joyncr, Esq., Northteick-hviiH,
Harrow.
1878
jope,* Jno., Esq. Lloyd's, E,C.
Royal Geographical Society.
Ixvil
Taraf
1876
1873
1868
1877
1875
1858
1876
1877
1857
1879
1873
1875
1875
1864
1879
1879
1860
1869
1873
1863
1878
1861
1877
1877
1875
1854
1875
1871
1875
1872
1874
1875
1879
1857
1864
1878
1878
TOL. XUZ.
C.
Kane, Dr. Ustthew, M.D. Lcmheme, KingOon-hai.
Kme, Dr. WUluun. Cart of M. Kane, Etq., M.D., Lankenui, Kingiton-hill.
Kantiow, Admiral H. P. de. 1, Obtgrtatory^ardewt, CatnpdcnJuK-rvati, W.
KwTiUi, Frank Oscir, E»q. Oakhurat, The Knoll, Beckenham, Kent.
KaTaaagii, T. (■'rank P,, Eaq.
Kaj, Darid, E»q. 19, Upper MilUmf/rt^Jace, KentingUm, W.
Kaj", H. C, Esq. 11, Dvrhimv'VUhM, Kentmglon^ W.
Kcane, Richard F., Esq., c.e. Berrihcen'hoate, Cafpoquin, Ireland.
Keating, Right Hon. Sir Henry Sitig«r. 1 , PritK^s-gardeHs, S. W.
Keeling, Frederic John, Esq. St. Mary'*-terreiee, Colchester.
Kaghtltj,* Alfred D,, Esq. Mitnthorpe, Penrith, Westmoreland.
Kdr, Campbell M., Esq. Oriental Club, ffanover-square, W.
Keir, Jno. Lindesajr, Esq. Fordlands, Bideford.
K«r, Simon, Esq. Conservative Club, S. W.
Kell, Robert, Esq. 53, DevmiAire-street, W. ; and Wanderers' Club,
S.W.
Kellner, Sir George, K.C.H.O. Oriental Club, ITanotxr-square, W.
Kemball,* Geaeral Sir Arnold Burrowes, K.C.B., K.C.8.I. United Sercice CM,
S.W.; and 79, Queen's-gate, S.W.
Kemp, Geo. L., Esq., Calcutta. Care of Messrs. H. 8. King end Co., 65,
Conhia, E.C.
Kemp, Rer. Henry William, b.a. The Charter-house, Bull.
KempBter, J., Esq. 1, PoHsmO'tth-plnce, Kmnimjttia'lane, Surrey, S.E.
Kendall, James, Esq. 16, Park-nfud, Wtiwhtrort/Komitvin, ■:>'■
Kennard, Adam Steinroetz, Esq. Crawl^t/^oart, Winchester.
Kennard, James, ICsq. Morton-house, Middleton, Lancashire.
Kennaway,* Sir John H., Bart., M.p. Fscot, Ottenj St. Mary, Deem.
Kennedy, John, Esq. 13, Brooklyn-road, Shepherd' s-bush, W.
Kennedy, Rer. John, mjl. 27, Stepney-green, E.
Kennedy, Renr-Admiral Jno. Jas., c.b. 39, Onslow-square, S. W. ; and United
Service Club, Pall-mall, S. W.
Kennion, Rer. George Wyndham, b.a. All Sainttt -vicarage, Bradford, Vur/ishire.
Kent, Fras. A., Esq. Kesgrate-hail, Suffolk.
Kerr, Alexander, Esq., Wellington, New Zealand. Care of Xonnan S. Kerr,
Eiq., M.D., 42, Grove-road, St. /oAn'j-wow/, N. W.
Kerr, MaJDr-General Lord Mark, C.B.
Kettle,* Daniel W., Esq. Hayes-common, Beckenham; and .53, Fleet-street,
E.C.
Key, Admiral Sir Astley Cooper, k.c.b. 5, Cranley-place, S.W.; and United
Service Club, PaO^mdi, S. W.
Keyaell, Francis P Esq. Grove-house, Cheshunt.
Kiddle,* Staff-Commr. W. W., R.K. 70, Upper Leeson-street, Dublin,
Kilgour, Geo., Esq.
Kilham, Thomas, Esq. Upper Qrosvenor-road, Tunbridge Wells,
1706 ^
^^^HHBIIi^^^H
1 Ixviii
Tw«r
BUctba.
Lilt of Fellowa of the ^^|
J
1874
KilUm, Fninl:, Ewj. T.^nnmUh, Nooa Sootin. Cire of Sfemt. T. C. Jone$
and Co^ 20, Chapel-ttn-ct, Liteipool,
186i
Kimber, Dr. E. 13, Park-viilni, ShtphtnTt-bush, M*.
1880
Kimberley, Itight Hon. The Earl of. 35, Lotendei-aquiife, S.W, ; otid Kimbaicy-
houM, W;i»tOndhavi, Norfolk,
1874
Kiiicaid, Thomas, E«{. 9, Lantdovin-cmceat, Gtaagaw.
1879
Kidg, Edwnrd, Fjq. 1, Ehaaion-place, Quean' »-gaU, i'. IV.
1875
King, E. H., Esq. Killcott, Godalitiing, Surrey. ^^^1
1872
King, Junes, Esq. 12, Clarewmt-Urracc, Olaagow. ^^H
18«6
Iviog, Johu, E«q. Compionrfield-pluce, GuiUford, Siirrtn.
1874
King, Hon. J. P. Locke. 38, Dover-ttrcet, IF.; and Livoklandt, near
Wejfiridije, Surrey.
1877
King, Joseph, Esq. Arktrrijht-ivid, Uampstc<idf N. W.
1873
Kingsley,* Maurice, E»q, Eiigitteer'a Office, Oawego, State of New York, U.S.A.
1857
KiiinninJ,' Arthur V., Lord, 2, Pal[-mall Ectt, S. W.
1875
Kiiitore, Eml of. Guthrie Castle, Arbroiith ; atul Carlton Club, Patl-maU, 3. If.
1878
Kirby, VVilUiun, E«[. 18, John-Street, Weit-cliff, W7ii"% Yorhihire.
1858
c. r- z.
Ivirk, Joliii, Esi). it.D., C.U.G. (H.M. Agent and Consul Geneial, ZamSxir).
1803
Iviike, John, t:*i. Oriental Cluh, W.
1870
KirklinJ, Major-Cen. John A. Vesey. Wfster Fordel, Milnathovl, K, U,
1868
Kisch, Dauiul Montagu, Esq. l.S, Westboume-park-temtce, \V. ^^B
1876
Kit<ili««er, Lieut. H. H. ^H
1886
IviUon,* Jame-i, jiin., E&q. Spring-lank, ITeudtajley, J.eeiU. ^^H
18418
Kitto, liidiard L. AliiMlelon, Esq. Preston-loJffc, Prettonpans, N.B, ^^H
1867
Knight. Andrew Haltey, Esq. G.2, Hotland-jMirk, W. ^^|
187A
Knight, Wni. Duncan, Esq. Atxninij-kotue, Greenhitl-park, ffttmpstead. ^^H
1862
Knolly*, Cienflml Kt liou. Sir William T., K.C.B. Blounfg-court, Jfenk:/-on-f
Thames. 1
1871
Knolly.^ Li«ut..Cd. W. W. (93rd Hightawlert). 102, Jfelijrme-road, S. W. 1
1874
Kiiowles, George, E»q., c.e. Piltiter-fiousi', Billiter-xlrt'el, K.C. J^^M
1857
Knox, Alex. A., Esq. 91, Victoria-Btreet, }\'ettminitfr, S.W. ^^H
1861
Knox, Sir Thomai G., k.c.m.o. (ll.M. Consul GcDcrai, Siam). C^re of Mestn.
U. S. King inul Co., 45, PaU-vutll, S. fl'.
1874
Koppel, S., E«q.
I860
r-
Kop«ch, Henry, Esq. Imperial Maritime Customs, China ; and 8, Stoney'n-gale,
S. \V.
1870
Kuraalkur, Abdul Hakk (Extra Asj>ist. -Commissioner, Basim, Berar, India).
1861
Kyd, Haye». Esq., u.ii.c.s. WadcbHJije, Cvmicall,
1875
Kynnstori, Rer. Herbert. MontpeUier4ud<je, Cheltenham. ^^^|
'739 1
Royal Geograpldcal Society.
lix
T«ror
Itoelin.
1859
1849
1876
1870
1879
1875
1877
1877
1878
1869
1859
1863
1877
1875
1878
1876
1861
1870
1866
1864
1859 I
1856 I
1871 I
1876 1
1861
1873!
i
1859 i
1870 1
1870 I
1860
1876
C.
1876]
1873'
1846 1
1873
1874'
Labrow, Lieat.-Colonel Valentine H., rMJL., tjOA Mitre'COurt-chamhtri,
nng>le, E.C.; md CttA-ehamben, S.W.
Laffim,* Maj.-Gen. Sir Robert Michael, R.K^ K.ax.o. Army and Navy Club, 8, TV,^
LaioM, Alfred W., Eiq. Tha Elms, Ealton.
Laing, Arthur, Eaq. 29, Mincing-lane, E.G.
Laiog, John William, Esq. Mayo Cottege, Ajmere, BajpAtana ; and New Uni-
verrity Club, St. James' s-streel, 8. W.
Laing, Joseph, Esq, 17, Castelnau^Uas, Barnes, 8. W,
Laing, Robert A., Esq. 3, 8t, Petei^s-road, Croydon,
Laing, Seton, Esq. 3, Obtervatory-gardens, Campdej^-AUl, Kensington, W. ; and
Xeform Club, Fall-mall, S.W.
L'Aker, John, Esq. Bever-lodge, Maidstone.
Lamb, Hon. Edward William. Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Lamb, Lieat. Henry, i.H. ff.M. India Store Department, Betvedere-roiJ,
Lambeth, S.E.
Lambert,* Alan, Esq. ffeath-lodge. Putney-heath, S. W.
Lambert,* C. J., Esq. 1, Crosby-square, E.C.
Lambert,* Ck>wley, Esq. New University Club, St. Jameis-street, 8. W.
Lambert, Rev. Frederick Charles, 62, St. Andrew-street, Cambridge.
Laming, James, Esq. 1, Bryanston-place, W.
Lamont, James, Esq. 4, Queen-street, Mayfair, W.
Lamploagh, Charles Edward, Esq. City of London Club, E.C.
Lampray, John, Esq. 1 6, Ccmden-sqaare, N. W.
I Lampson, Sir C. M., Bart. 80, Eaton-square, S. W.
Lange,* Sir Daniel A. Lanehurst, Albourne, Sussex.
I Langler,* John R., Esq., b.a. Droxholme, Tliurlovo-hill, Lower Noi-woo-l, S.E.
Langworthy, Edward M., Esq. Geys-house, Hohjport, Maidenhead.
■ Lansdell,* Rev. Henry. The Grove, Blackheath, S.E.
Lardner, Colonel John. United Service Club, S. W.
Large, Robert Eramott, Esq. The Elms, Portsmouth-road, Sarbiton; and 13,
South-square, Grai/s-inn, W.C.
Laraach, Donald, Esq. 21, Kensington-palace-gardens, W.
Lasseter, Frederic, Esq. 5, Porchester-gate, Hyde-park, W.
Laughton, Lieut.-Col. George Arnold (Bombay Staff Coi-ps), Supeiintendeat
Bombay Survey, Bombay.
Laughton, J. K., £lsq. Royal Naval College, Greenwich.
\ Laurie,* Peter Geo., Esq. 9, ArunJel-gardens, Kensington-park, W. ; SuUiam-
[ stead Abbots, near Beading, Berks ; and Thatched- House Club, St. James'a-
I street, S. W.
' Lavies, Joseph Samuel, Esq. 96, St, George' s-road, S. W.
; Law, Geo., Esq. 544, Oxford-street, W.C.
> Law,* Hon. H. Spencer, m.a. 36, Eccleston-square, S. W,
j Law, Jas, Esq, 544, Oxford-street, W.C.
j Lawes,* Robert Murray, Esq. 9, Clarges-streei, Puxadilly, W.
1775 j >-i
^^^^BBI^^^^H
Twrof
KUctton.
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^H
'^^H
1880
Lnwc8, Rev. William Geoigi». 3, Donnington-road, Heading. 1
1870
Lawrence, Alcinnder, Esq. Clijde-hi/uise, Tfiurlow-road, Hmnpstead, X. W, ; iijw/
11, Great mnchtater-strett, E.C.
1876
Liwrence, A. M., Esq., jun. 17, Thwlow-roai, Hampstead, N.W. ^^^
1874
Lawre:ic«, Fred. W., KIsq. Oahhiijh, Bechen)^m, Kent, ^^H
1876
Lavmoe, Lord. M, lic(tvfort-(jardent, S. W.
1877
Lawrence, Sir J. J.Trevor, linrt., m.p. 9, Prince't-gatu, S.W. ; and But-ford-
lodge, Dorking, Swrei/.
1870
L»wi-«iice,* Philip Heury, E»q. 3. Stone-huUdlngi, Limxln'i-inn, W.C. ^J
1873
Lawrence, W. F., Esq. New Vniversitij Club, S. W. ^^|
1868
Lawrie, James, E»q. 63, Uld BroaJ-atreet, E.C, ^^M
1867
Lawson, William, Ksq. 21, Wal)iam-<froce,Ftaham,S.W. ^H|
1879
Lajtton, Wm. Kr«<lk., Esq., F.8.A. 4, EsseX'Cowt, Middle-temple, E,C.; amt
Beaconsfeld Club, Pall-mall, S. W.
1869
Lay,* Horatio N., Esq., c.n. Rumleigh, Tatutock, Devon.
1857
«. C. p.
Layard, Right Hon. .Sir Austen H..c.n,u., D.c.L. Athenteum Club, PuW-wdV,
1876
Layord, CapL Urownlow E. J{orfielil-bfirr,iclii, Bristol.
1866
Layard,* Coptaiu Brownlow Viiliei-» (;iid \Ve»t India Regt.). Junior United-
Service Club; and 38, Upper Mutint-ttreet, DMin.
1863
Leaf,* Charles J., Esq. C, Sussax-place, L'e;]ent's-parh, A\ 0'
1875
Leake,* Sir Luke S., Knt. Perth, Western A^itlralia. Care of C. J. iTui*-
vrright, Ei^., EliiJturst, East End. Fincftiey, A'.
1874
t^red, Jno,, Esq. 12, Old Burlington-street. W.
1874
LearmoDth, Andrew James L., Esq. Junior United Seri:ke Ciuh, S.W. ^^^t
1876
lj»3rmoatb, Tims. Liringstotic, Esq. 4.5, Gloacater-gardens, W. ^^H
1873
Leaver, J. Criitoplier, Esq., Kostheme-house, Ccutlenau, Btirnes, Surrey,
1866
Lebour, G. A., Eaq., M.A., F.0.3. College of Phytical Science, Ne\ecaatle-<m-
Ttjne,
1853
\jt Breton,* Fmncia, Esq. 21, Stuaex-place, Begeni's-park, S. W.
1861
Lfckie, Patrick C, Esq. 7, Pitlnce-road, Boupell-park, Streatluim, S. W.
1870
Lecky, Capt. Sqtiire Thornton Stratfoi-d (Royal Narsil lte»«rve}. Fvrest-Edgty
Smay, near Lyinimjton, Jliimpshire.
ISoO
Le Cite, Henry, Esq. 107, St. Oeorge's-S'jwtre, S.W.
t875
Lea, Rev. Albert. Silk-hall, Tuckhdee, near Dariccn, Lancashire. ^—
18U8
Lee, John, Esq. Orosvenor-eotlage, VertaiJlei-road, Anerley, S.E. ^^H
1873
Lee, John Dankin, Esiq, The Oaks, Belvedere-park. ^^^|
TS74
Leeman, Georgf, Esq. 7 , Dean's yard, Weslmiinter, S.W, ^^^M
IS79
Lees, Ch.ni lei Cameron, Esq., CM. 0. \9, Pembroke-road, Ken»in;jtom, 11". 1
1878
l.«es, Eli, E«i. 102, L<incaster-gaie, W. ^J
1879
Lees, Lieut. Hasliogs I.owley, it.M. H,M.S. 'Cambridge,' Plifntouth. ^^M
1869
Le«s,* Lieutenaiit-Colonel Ndsmiu, d.C.L. Athenamm CM, S. \V, ^^M
1879
Lees, Robert Wilson, ICaq. ^^H
1865
Le F<urre, W. H., Esq., c.n, ^^M
I8ii ^H
Rotfol Geograpliieal Society.
Ixxi
Tmrtt
.
1878
1853
1863
1861
1861
1845
1869
1877
1863
1878
1874
1880
1867
1876
1873
1876
1857
1876
1869
1873
1874
1859
1876
1873
1877 j
1869 I
1879 I
1876
1872 I
1874
1852 '
1876 I
1859
1878 i
1856
1875
1880
I8G0I
C. p.
Lefroy, Anthonf O'Gitkdy, E»q., CM.o. Care of Mr. T. M. C. Vigo, 19,
AbckurcA-latu, B.C.
Lefroj, Genentl Sir John Henry, R.A., k.c.m.o., r.Rj., &c 82, QrumU-gate,
S.W.I oidAaeHmun CM, S.W.
L^iatt, Clement DaridioD, Eiq. I, Finner's-oourt, Old Broad-ttreet, B.C.
Legfa, Willuun John, E«q^ m.p. 38, Belgrave-^quan, S.W. ; and Lyme-parh,
Che$hir«.
Lchnumn,* Frederick, Ecq. 15, Berkeley-tquan, W.
Leigh, John Studdj, Esq., w.aja. 107, ffereford-road, Baytvater, W.
Leigh, Roger, E«q. Barham-court, near Maidstene, Kent.
Ldghton, ThomM, Esq. The Limes, Wed Brixton, S.W.
LeUeeoi-ier.HenryP., Esq.,GJ.i.,c.K. 2l,^anley-cresoent,Kensington-park, W.
Lepper, Chu. H., Esq. Rookvoood, Bradford, Yorkshire.
Le Pays, Geo. Renatus, Esq. 7, PorUand-terrace, Begenfs-park, N. W.
Lceslie, Ralph, Esq. Trinidad.
L'Estrange, Carleton. Esq. Carlton Club, 8. W.
Letfabridge, Edwin B., Esq. 42, G^eman-street, Brighton.
Letts, Thomas, Esq. 72, Queen Vidoria-itreet, E.C.
Lever, J. 0., Esq, M.P. 97, St. Oeorge's-equare, 8. W.
LeTcrson, George B. C, Esq. 18, Queensberry-place, Cromwell-road, S.W.
Lertnoo, Lieut. Julian Jno., ile. 18, Queenaberry-place, Cromwell-road, S. W.
Lereion, Edward J^ Esq. Cluny, Cretcent-teood-road, Sydenham-Jiill, 8.K.
Leri, Professor Leone, F.8.A., &c. 19, Richmond-cretcent, Bam^ury, N.; and
6, Crovn Office-row, Temple, E.C.
Levin, Nathaniel, Esq. 44, Cleveland-square, W,
[.evinDohn, Louis, Esq. Vemon-house, Chrendon-gardens, Maida-hUl, W.
Levy, B. W., Esq. 19, St. Helen's-place, E.C.
Lewin,* Frederick Dealtry, Esq. Morelands, St. John's-park, Blackheath, S.E.
Lewin, F. Geo., E«q. 4, Lombardian-villas, St. Mary's-road, Peckham, S.E.
Lewin,* Col. Thomas H. (Beng. Staflf Corps). Oarden-comer-house, Chelsea
Embankment, S. W.
l^wis,* Edwd. Wm., Esq. Beaudesert, Leighton Buzzard.
Lewis, Francis T., Esq.
Lewis, Jos., Esq., R.N. 25, Duke-street, Orosvenor-square, W.
Lewis, Rev. R. C, U.k. Streathamrcommon, S. W.
Leycester, Captain Edmund M.. R.M. White-place, near Maidenhead, Berks.
Leyland, R. Watts, Esq. 17u Exchange-buildings North, Liverpool.
Lichfield, Right Hon. Thomas George, Earl of. Shugborough, Staffordshire,
Lienhardt, Chas. Eugene, Esq. 4, East India-atenue, E.C.
Lilford,ThomasLyttletonPowjs,Lord. Lilford-park, Oundle, Northamptonshire,
Lillingstoo, Lieutenant F. G. Innes, r.n. CoUlemore-house, Loohalsh, Boss-sliire.
Lindley,* Robert Searles, Esq., as. 29, Blittersdorffs-platz, FratUtfort-on'
Maine.
Lindsay, H. Hamilton, Esq. 14, Windham-plai^, Bryanston-tquare.
1849
Ixxii
Te«Dl
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^M
1870
LindMf, Loid, Uj-. 47, Brook-itrett, Grcnenor-vptan, W.
18tJ7
VmAuLj* Colonel Bolwrt J. L., V.C., M.p. iMckinge-houK, Wantage, Berkt ,
and ■!, Curlton-gardens, S. W.
1669
Liodsey , Mark John, Esq. 32, Ludgate-fiill, E. C, ; and Bumi-nstt-lane, Lee, KmC
1877
Lisui, Joseph Isiiao Coh«n tie, Esq. Port Louie, MnttritittS.
1875
Llater, liaac S., Ebq. The Heath, Hampsleuil, N. \V.
1866
Little, Archilmlii J., Esq. Shanghai ; and 18, Pafhttreet, Gromenor^tquart, W, '
1871
Little, Simon, Esq. Calantra-hotisa, Wexford, Irehind. 1
1876
Ltttledale, Clement St. George, Eiq. JJighJield, near Liverpool, ^^J
1870
Littleton, Th« Hot]. Henry S. Teddexletj, PmArtd<fe, Staffonbhtre. ^^M
1875
Littleton, Hon. Wm. K. ^^
1877
LiversiJge, Archibald, Esq., 7.0.B kc Ciire of Messrt. TiSlmer mid Co., &7, 1
Ludijatc-hill, E.G. d
1878
Lloyd, Alfied, Esq. Push-lane, Camon-ttreH, B.C. i
1875
Lloyd, Capt. C. Henry. Care of M«Mtra, Jno. Jupp and Co., 113, Fettchnrch'
street, E.C.
1874
Uiijil, Fmnci* Aylmcr, Esq. 2, Saint Charlet-sqnare, Nottmg-hill, W,
1857
Lloyd,* Hon. Geo. A. Sydney, N. S.W,; and 3, Geortje-yard, Lomhard- street,
E.C,
1880
Lloyd,* Percy, Esq. Gardcn-cottaife, Lo'cer SoncooJ, S. W. |
1804
Lloyd,* W., Eeq. M'jood-housc, Wcdneslmry, Staffordshire. J
)8G7
P-
Lloyd, Ilev. William V., M.a. g^^B
1861
Lluellyn, Major Uicluu-d. Army and Navy CM, S, W. ^^^H
1869
Lluellyn, Major VVtlliam R., S.A. Plytaouth. ' ^^M
1877
Lobb,*John, Esq. Dursley-villa, 16, Cramleij-foad, Victoria-park, E. ^^B
18438
Lobky, Jameii Logan, Esq., v.as. New AUwmmm Club, Suffoik-itreet, Pall mall, .
S. W.
1859
Loch, Henry Brougham, Eaq. Gotemmeni-houte, Isle of Man.
1857
Loch, William Adam, Ii*q. 42, Bedcliffe-<}(u-deni, S. W.
1874
Lock, Alfred G., Efq. 89, Mostyn-roaJ, Brixton, S.W, ; and Roaelandi, Jtilt'
brook, Southampton.
ys>A
Locke, John, Esq. SI), Addison-road, Kensington, W, ^^H
1858
p-
Lockhai-t, Willi-ira, Esq,, F.R.C.8. 67, GranvUle-park, Blackheath, S.E. ^H
18ft8
Lockhart, Cnptdii Wtn. Stephen Alexander. j^^H
1874
Loder,* Edmund Gilc«, Esq. 42, Qrosvenor-tqnare, W. |^^|
1880
Loewe, Siegmnnd, Esq. 3, OakUy-road, Suuthgatn-road, N. ^^^H
1872
Lognn, .Sir T. G.-ilbwith, K.C.B., M.D. 40, Hyde-purk-square, W. ^^k
1868
LomooosaofT, M. Alexis de. Astiat.'Sec. Geographical Sooiety, St. Pcttnbiirff»M
Care of Messrs. Hamilton and Co., 32, Paternoster-row, E.C. 1
1860
LondesborouphfWm. Henry Forester, Lord. 'Ah, BerkcJey-sqvare, W. ^^B
1874
Long, Rcr. James. 14, Salisfmry-tqvutre, Fleet-street, E.C. ^^|
1867
Long,* W. Bi'wton, Esq. ^^1
1876
Longden, Mnjor-Gencrnl Henry Edward, c.u. 44, Lovser Leesonstreet, JfiA»m
tin ; and United Service Cluh, S, W. 1
J885 ^^
M
Boyal Geoffraphical Society,
Ixxiii
1865
1879
1870
1861
1860
1875
1874
1876
1875
1864
1879
1873
1856
1867
1875
1863
1858
1859
1879
1873
1878
1870
1873
1866
1871
1879
1876
1877
1879
1875
1871
1873
1872
1860
1860
LoDgden, Sir J. K, K.c.M.a. OooermnetU'hmiae, Trinidad. Care of Mr, J,
P. Mwrtmeau, 36, ThedxMs^roady Bedford-row, W.C.
LoagUj,* Lt^>>l. George, B.s. Care of If. Lonjlei/, Esq., 8, Lowndes-street,
S.W.
Longnun, Charles J., Esq. 39, Patemoster'rotOf E.G.
LoDgsUfi^* Lkat-Colonel JUewellTu Wood. Ridgelands, Wmhkcbm.
Lonsdale, Arthur Pembertoo, Esq.
Looker, William Robert, Esq. Melbourne, Auttraiia. Care of Mr. Ashhiu-st,
9, FeM^uirch-areet, B.C.
Lord, W. Barry, Esq. Downshire^ill-cottage, Sampttead, j\'. W.
Lome, The Most Hon. the Marqais of, K.t. Canada.
Lort, William, Esq. Firon Ooch Satt, Llardlugan, Vid Berriew, Montgomenjsliire.
Lothian,* Maoiice Jno., Esq. Wooda>te-^park, BlackahieU, N. B.
Lothian, Most Hon. William Schomberg, Marquis of. Nev^ttle-dljbey, Dal'
keit\N.B.
Louis, Julian A. H., Esq. Wincheater-rMtage, Chancellor-road, West Duhcich.
lorett, Lieut. -Colonel Beresford, B.E. The Rectory, Pickweil, Oakham.
Lovett, Phillips Cosby, Esq. Liscond>e-fiouse, Liaoombe, Leigfdon Buzzard,
Low, Alex. F., Esq. 84, Westbourne-terrace, W.
Low, Cbas. R., Esq. (Lieut, late l.N.) 82, Eliham-road, Kensingtm, W.
Low, S. Pn Esq. 55, Parliament-street, S. W.
Lowden, Rev. George Rouse. St. Leonard-viUa, HanweU, Middlesex.
Lowe, Captain W. Drury. 19, Portman-aquare, W.
Lowenstein, C, Esq. Loughborough Oraminar School, Lotighborough, Lclcccter'
ahire.
Lowther,* Capt. Marcus, R.N. j[h>mton, JSyde,
Loyd, Lieut. Lewis Vivian (Grenadier Guards). 16, Grosvenor-place, S.W.
Luard, Captain Charles Edward, r.k. Portsmouth,
Luard, Major-General K. G. A. 8, Albert-villas, Clifton, Bristol,
Luard, Wm. Charles, Esq. Uandaff-house, Card&ff ; and Athencsum Club, S. W.
Lubbodc,* Sir John, Bart, u.p. F.R.8., &c. High-elms, Beckenham, Kent.
Lucas, Alfred Walter, Esq. Queen'a-park, Chester.
Lucas,* Arthur, Esq., c.E. 15, George-street, Hanover-square, W.
Luck, F. G., Esq. Tlie Olives, Wadhurst, Sussex.
Lock, Harry Courtenay, Esq. 138, Stamford-street, S.E.
Luckman, Alfred, Esq.
Lndlow, Edgar John David, Esq. Care of Geo. Perry, Esq., 67, Charlciiood-
street, St. Oeorg^a-road, S.W.
Lugard, General Right Hon. Sir Edward, o.cb. 10, Albert-place, Victoria-road,
Kensington, W.
Lnmaden,* Colonel Sir P. S., k.c.b., c.b.i. (Quartermaster-General, Bengal Army).
UniUd Service Club, Pall-mall, S. W.
Lumsden,* Rev. R. C, V.A., f.b.a.8. Maidenhead.
Lush, Hon. Sir Robert, Q.c. Balmoral-house, Avenue-road, Regent' s-park, N. W.
1921
ITa&r of
List of Fellows of the ^^^^B
KkMOoa.
1873
LushiagtoD-Tilion,* Rer. W. R. Tilacm Maith, m.a. Oxford and Cambridge
Club, S. W. ; Cansertatice CMj, S. W. ; and Strethm Manor, hie of Ely.
1877
Lutley, Itobert George, E«q. Care of Mn. Lutlnj, 11, Daring-cretcoit, ExeUr.
1876
Luttrell,* Lieut, Alexander Fowiiea (Gren, Guards). Guardi Club, Pall-mall,
S.W.; and Dunster-castk, Somerset,
1873
Lycett, SU- Frsnci*, K.cb. 18, Hijhburifgrore, Highbury, A', J^J
1866
Lydali, J. H., Esq. 12, Southarnpton-buildings, Chancerylane, W.C. J^^k
1873
Ljrilgate, Bobert, Esq. Upper Sc/tool, PecUam, S.E. ^^M
1873
Ljdghie, Wm., £«q. The Castle School, Guildford. ^^M
1869
Lye, John Gaunt, E*q. H, Eenaington-gale, Hyde-park-south, W. ^^H
1877
Lyell, Fwnds H., Esq. St. Heliers, Bickley, Kent. ^H
1861
V-
Lynch," Thunuu Kerr, Eitq. 31, Cleveland-square, Hyde-park, W. ^^M
1858
Lyne, Knincis, Esq. 5, Seayrave^laee, PiUvUle, Cheltenham. ^^H
1875
Lyne, l!obt. E., Em. Royal Dublin Society, Dublin. ^^H
1879
Lyioiu, General Sir Daniel, k.c.d. 9'.', St- Gemy^s-aquare, S. W. ^H
1879
Maberlcy, Alf. Wm., E«q.,c.E, ExeUr-hall, Strand, W.C. ^^|
1877
MacalisUr,* James, £«{. 95, Bithopigate-ttreet-vfithia, E.C. ^^H
1675
Uacftulay, Jame«, E«q. 7, Albemarlt-aireet, ^V, ^^H
1863
UAcbraire, James, Esq. Broadmeadows, BerwicA-on-TiceeJ. ^^H
1876
Mnodona, G. da Laudre, (Ltq. nUbre-home, West Kirl/y, CheMte. ^^H
1875
MociJounld,* J Ames, Esq. 17, Kuasell-squai-e, W.C, ^^H
1873
MaodoQflId, Goloael John (Beng. SUff Corps). Care of Messrs. Oriudi'ay and
Co., 55, I'arliumcnt-street, S. W,
1871
MaodoimM, Wiltinm, Esq. Yokohama, Japan.
1879
MuodwwlJ, MAJui-Gencr.il W. C. R., CD. UniUd SerxUse Clu!>, Pali-tnalt, S. W.
1877
Mnodonald, Wm. M., Esq. St. Martin's, Perth,
1843
J'-
Macdonnell, Sir Richard Grave*. K.c.m.O., CD. Athenceum Club, Pall-mall, 8.W,
186S
MacCu-lao, John G., Esq. The Tower, Richmond-bridge.
1876
Mntifkrlane, DoimM, Esq., k.d. 17, Westboume-park, W. ; and East India
PI S. Club. St. James's-tqvare, S. W.
1874
Hacfarlane, Donald H., Esq.. u.p. 62, Porlland-phoe, W.
1879
MaoGregor, Alex., Enq., c.E. 6, Charles-street, Serkeley-gqvare, W. ^^M
1868
Mat€regor, Li«ut..C«l. C. JI., CD. ^1
1855
MacGregor, Duncan, E&q. Athentsum Club, S. W.
1872
MacGregor," John, Esq., M.A. 7, Vanbntgh-park East, Blackhsatk ; and Athcnmmn.
CM, S. W.
1879
Macinlyre, ColoDel Donsld, v.c. Eaut India United Service Clwb, 14, St. James'i-
square, S.W,
1845
Madntyre,* Patrick, Esq., f.s.A. 1, Maida-vale, W.
1859
Mndmy. Rev. AleianJor, lud. Proepeet-honue, Orote-roaJ, Ventnor, lite e^
Wight.
I9$5 ^^
J
Royal Geoffraphical Society,
Ixxv
1870
1873
1877
1878
18S0
1873
1864
1862
1867
1878
1865
1872
!861
1860
1873
1871
1871
1860
1859
1855
1861
1879
1861
1874
1871
1874
1678
1870
1878
1873
1873
1875
1863
1867
1872
1880
Mackaj, Nerile F., Esq. 3, Salter*s-hall-couri, Cannon-itreet, E.C.
Madcelvie, Jm. Tsiinodc, Esq. 21, Vkioria-at., S. W.; and 7, AOemarle^U ^''
Mackenzie, Capt. Colin (78th Highlanders). Naval and Military Club, Fioca-
day, W.
Mackenzie,* Colin, Esq. Care of Mestrs, J. BramHey-Moore and Co., Liverpool.
Mackenzie,* James T., Esq. Hatchford, Cdbham, Surrey.
Mackenzie, William, Esq., K.D., c.B. 2, Olouceeter-houaea, Oloucetter-creacent,
8.W. ; and East India United Seroioe Club, S.W.
Mackeson,* Edward, Esq. 13, Hyde-park-aquare, W.
Mackinlaj, D., Esq. Oriental Club, W.
Macldnlaj, John, Esq., J.P., m.i.g.e. Percy-houte, 15, Percy-drcua, W.C.
Mackinnon,* Rer. Donald Dimsdale, h.a. A'ew Univertity Club, St. Jamea's-
atreet, SW.; and 8, Montagnstreet, Portman-equare, W.
Mackinnon,* W., Esq. Tarbert, Lochfyne, Argyleakbre ; and 7, Lothbury, E.C,
Mackintosh, Alex, Esq. 9, Talbot-sqmire, Hyde-Park, W.
Mackintosh, Alexander Brodie, Esq. Oriental Club, W. ; and Dunoon, Scotland.
Mackirdy, Gen. ElUot (69th Regiment). U. S. Club, S. W.
Macklej, Thomas Cole, Esq. 12, Mark-lane, E.C.
Maclagan,Gen. Robert, U.E. 37, Lexham-gardena, Kenaingtan, W.
Maclaine, Murdoch G., Esq., of Lochbny. Oban, Scotland.
Maclean, William Crighton, Esq., r.o.s. 31, Cait^)erdown-place, Oreat Yarmouth,
MacLeajr, Sir George, K.C.M.O. PendeU-oourt, Bletchingley.
Madure, Andrew, Esq. Meaara. Maclwe, Macdonald, and Macgregor, 97,
Queen Victoria-atreet, E.C.
Madura, John William, Esq. 4, St. Jame^s^lace, S.W.; and Tlie Home,
Whalky-range, Manchester.
MacMahon, Colonel Charles. Marlow-road, Kenaington, W.
Macmillan, Alex., Esq. 1, Bedford-atreet, Covent-garden, W.C.
MacHurdo, Lieut.-General, C.B. 36, Queen'a-gate-terrace, South Kensington.
Macnab, Duncan Macpherson, Esq. Umon Club, S. W.
Macnamara, Surg.-Maj. F. N., M.D. (Indian Armj). 28, Palace-gardena-terraoc, 11'.
Macndll, Duncan, Esq. 7, Lothbury, E.C.
Mactnrk, John, Esq. 8, Hillhead-gardens, Qlaagow.
McAlister, Alex., Esq. 242, Hicftmond-road, Hackney.
McAlpin, Donald A. L., Esq., r.k. I, Llanion-terrace, Pembroke Zhck, South
Wales.
McAlpin, Kenneth W,
Walea.
HcAndrew, Maj.-Gen. G. (Bengal Staff Corps).
Co., 55, Parliament-street, S. W.
McArthnr, Alex., Esq., h.p. Raleigh-hall, Brixton-rise, Brixton, S.W,
McArthnr, William, Esq., M.p. 1, Gwydyr-houaes, BrietoTi-riae, S.W.
MoCall, John, Esq. Cxre of J. Walker, Esq., 351, Brixton-road, S.W.
MoOarthjr, Desmond, E«q. Lagoa, West Coast of Africa.
199 1
A. G., Esq. Llanion-terrace, Pembroke-dock, South
Care of Messrs. Grindlay and
Isxvi
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^|
T«kr of
J
1879
McCktchie, H, P*rket>, E<q. j^M
1876
McClean, Her. D. Stuart. Norwcod-rectori/, SoutMl, Middieux. ^^M
1808
M'Clejin, Frank, Esq., M.A., C.E. Femcliffe, Tur^ndge Wells. 1
I860
«5.C.p.
M'Clintock, Admirnl Sir Frmicb Leopold, f.K.S. United Serviot Club, S.W, 1
1879
M'Clintock, Cnpt. William, R.S. Ordnanix Factory, Enficld-lock, Middletex. J
1871
McClure,* Joseph Henry, E»q. Bcacoruficld Club, Poll-nialt, S. IF. ^^J
1870
McConnell, Jas. Edw., Ksq., C.E. 2, Dean'g-jfard, WettmiTulur, S.W. ^^M
1861
McConnell,* W. R., Esq. 12, Kmg't-Bench^Kcili, Temple, E.C.; and duirlnilU,
Belftvst.
1862
P-
McCosh, JohD, Esq., M.D. Jioiior United Service Club, S.W.
1865
McEuen, D. P., Esq. 24, Pembridgesquare, BayitBaier, W.
1877
M<:Rwin, John Thomas H., E»q. Care of W. T. Ogdetk, Esq., Ca, Austin
Friars, B.C.
1874
lIcGuvio, Alan Lawrie, £s<]|. Cordon-lodge, Wanttead; and 2, Bartfe-yard,
Viotoria-street, S.W.
1867
McGregor, Duncan, E»q. Chjde-flace, Olaagoto. ^^
McGrigor, Alezander Dennett, ISitq. 19, Woodiide-terraee, GlatQwa. ^^H
Ucllwrnith, Robert, Esq. 45, Bedford-gardens, Campden-hill, W.
1869
1874
1880
Mcllwr.iith, ThuDiiis, E>q. Queensland, Care of Mcisn. McItxraUh, ilcEndutn
and Co., 34, LcadcnfutU-nlreet, B.C.
1878
MeKenna, I.eopoM, Esq. BavenibourM'park, CatfordJiridge, 8.E.
1873
&IcKerlie, P. H., Esq., FJB.A. Scot., ijc. 26, PetiJbridge-tillat, Baysumtor, TV.
1867
McLean,* Hon. John. Oamaru, New Zealand. Can of Afetsrs. Rtdftm^
Alexander, and Co., 3, Great Witichester-street-buildingii, E.C,
1876
McLean,* Robert AlUin, Esq,, r.8.8. Dmrt-houee, The Atenve, EltlMin-road,
Lee, S.E.
1874
McMahou, Colonel A. Care of Messrs. ff. S. King and Co,, CwnAtf/, E.C.
1876
McMftster, James, E«q. 1, Stanhope-gardens, Qwen't-gate, S. W.
1866
McNair, Major Jobn F. A., R.A., c.M.G. Care of Messrs. Codd and Co.,
■6b, Craven-street, W.C.
1839
C.
M*Neil, The Right Hon. Sir John, O.C.b. Bwnhead, Lihertan, Edinburgh.
1876
McNeill, Colonel J. C, V.C, C.b. United Semice Cluh, Pall-mall, S.W.
1873
McVean,* Colin A., Esq., Care of Bev. D. McVean, Bunestan, Scotland.
1875
Madan, liev. J. R.
1872
Moj^rith, Colonel John R. (Madrw Artillery. Bet). Murhill, near Bradfwd-
on-At^n, Wilts; and East India U. 8. Club, 14, St. Jamei's-square, S.W.
1877
Uair, G. J. J., Eskj.. f.b.a. 41, Upper Btdfard-jOaoe, Bussell-square, W.C.
1874
Maitkod, Rev. A. Gray. Woodford, Esttx.
1845
C.p.
Major,* Richard Henry, Esq., F.8.A. Atheneeum Ctnb, S.W.; and British
Museum, W.C.
1868
Makins,* Henry F., Esq. 8, Palace-gate, Kensington, W. ; and Eeform CM, S. W,
1858
Blalby, John Walter, E»q. 135, Seven-sisters' -road, IloUowag, K.
1862
Malcolm,* Major Edward Donald, R.E. Clifton-house, I'ork.
1843
Malcolm,* W. £„ Esq. Bumfoot, Langholme, near Carlish. ^^^|
20 16 ^^H
Royal Geographical Soci^y.
Isxvii
1876
1872
1853
1876
1880
1877
1870
1872
1872
1874
1860
1866
1879
1866
1874
1864
1869
1859
1873
1869
1871
1872
1874
1873
1854
1877
1857
1879
1876
1862
1873
1876
1859
1875
1877
1874
C. p.
Haldol, B. Jno., Esq. 14, Oreat Conm-street, Bussell-aquare, W.C.
Malleson, Colonel G. B. 27, West CromveU-road, 8. KensiHgton, 8. W.
Mallet,* Chas., E»q. Audit-cffice, W.C; md 7, Qtuembn'-terrace, Bayt-
waUr, W.
Maltby, F. Cecil, £aq. Ihatched-House ChA, St. Jatnet't^reet.
Man,* Edward Horace, Esq. Fort Blair, Andaman Iilanda.
Han, M^.-Gen. Henry (Madras Staff Corps). 2, Palace-road, Sarbiton.
Han, Captain J. Alezando- (Imperial Haritime Cnstoms, China). Junjpr Unitfl
Service Club, 8. W.
Man, Captain William. Woodbridge, Suffolk.
Han, William, Esq. Woodford, Eiaex.
Mann, H., Esq. Belgrave-^mantions, 8, W.
Mann, James Alexander, Esq., M.R.A.S.
Uann, Robert James, Esq., H.D. 5, Kingsdown-villas, Wandawwi/i-comnum,
8.W.
Mann, Ber. Thomas. Sunnyside, Troubridge, W^ts.
Uanners, George, Esq., fj9.a. Lansdovme-road, Croydon.
Maaoers-Sutton, Hon. Robert Henrj. 12, QueetiAerry.place, S. Ketismgton, S. W.
Mansell,* Captain A. L. Chalus, Eubcea, Greece.
Mantell, Sir John lies. County Folice-cowt, Strangeways, Manchester.
Mantell, Walter Baldock Dorant, Esq. Wellington, New Zealand. Care of
A. J. Woodhouse, Esq., 1, Hanoter-tquare, W.
Mantle, Wm. John, Esq. 7%« Orove, Lincoln.
March, Edward Bernard, Esq. (H.M. Consul, Callao). Care of Messrs. King and
Co., Ah,.Pall-maU, 8. W.
Margetts, William G., Esq. 29, Charleville-road, West Kensington, S. W, ; and
St. Stephen's Qub, S. W.
Morgoschis, John Thomas, Esq. Cure of Mrs. MargSscftis, Brodic^iila,
I^eamington.
Marjoribanks, Edw., Esq., si.P. 134, Ptccadilly, W,
Markham, Captain Albert Hastings, k,n, 21, Eccleston-^quare, S.W.
Markham, Clements Robert, C.B., f.r.8. 21, Eccleston-sqtiare, S.W.; and
Athenceum Club, S.W.
Marsh, Capt. H. C Care of Messrs. H. 8. King and Co., 65, Cornhill, E.C.
Manth, Matthew Henrj, Esq.
Marshall,* Alfired, Esq. Laurel-hank, Waltftatnstow, Essex.
Marshall, Horace Brooks, Esq. CliftonHcilla, Brixton.
Marshall,* J. G. Don, Esq. Eurst-lodge, Tvcyford, Berks.
Marshall, John, Esq. Auckland-lodge, iiueen's-road, Richmond.
Marshall,* William, Esq. 37, Norfolk-street, Strand, W.C.
Marsham,* The Hon. Robeit. 5, Chesterfield-street, Mayfair, W.
Marston, Edward, Esq. 188, Fleet-street, E.C.
Marten, Chas. Henry, Esq. Combe-lodge, Blackheath, S.E.
Marten, C. Rous, Esq. Wellington, New Zealand,
ae>63
Ixxvi
ii
Liat of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^M
bUetlon.
1871
Marten, Elliott, Esq. (Vice-Con»Ql, Sarawak). Cart of W. T. JIarten, Etq.,
30, Great St. Helm' 9, R.C.
1»61
Martin, Henry, Ekj. S'lssfX'/iOMe, Highbury-ngre-park, K,
1860
Martin,* RicharJ Eiddulph, Y.s(\., M,P. Chislehurtt. ^^
1862
Martin, ThoniM, Esq. Betchvood, Wthdean, near Brujhto*. ^^H
1880
Miivm, Lieat. A. H., r.e. 52, RuueU-»quare. W.C. ^H
1»75
Masoo, Dr. Samuel. 44, Finafturyctnctu, E.C, ^^H
1871
Master, Cbas. Hoikiiu, E»q. BarroxB^rem-lioutt^ OxUd, near Goditone, ^^
Surrey. 1
1870
UMtcmvin, Edward. Eaq. -30, ThreadneedU-4treet, B.C. ; and 27, Ctemmff
Imu, Lombard-ttreet, E.C.
1B70
Mtutermon, Edward, jun^ Ecq. 57}, Old Broad-tt., E.C. ; and W'aHha»\$tow.
IB6«
Mathenon,' Alexander, Esq., M.p. 38, S<mtk-Ure<t, Park-lane, W. ; and
Ardroti-castle, Ross-ihire, N. B,
1874
Mutheson,* Hugh Mackay, Esq. 3. Lombard-street, E.C.
1874
Mathews, Chas. Edward, Esq, Oakgate, Autjustui-roaJ, EJgbatton, BirminU'
ham ; and Art* Club. W.
J&80
Mathews, Gerrais K., £m). Instov, Xurl/t Devon.
1872
Mathews, Williani, Esq. Jl.A. 60, J/aHtome-roaJ, Birmingham.
1858
MitJiiF'on, Jnme* Ewicg, Esq. 77, Lombard-street, E.C. ; <tnd HVrf-ZiciM-
ludije, Ilampftead, N. \V.
1878
Jlntuiin, Win. Henry, Esq., CD. 5, Courtjield^ardent, South Sauiuj/tvn,
S. IV.
1873
Mnude, Colonel 0. A. Royal Mates, Pimlioo, S, W.
J 875
MftudsUy, Atho], Esq.
1875
Mauley Geo. Norrnoij, Esq, 1, Hare-court, Temple, E.G.; and Unitertity Club^
s. \y.
1872
Klntwell, John, Esq. Lichfield'houu, Richmond.
1879
Mjiswell, Major Hubert James. 35, Thurhe-square, S. W.
1853
!'•
May, .stnlT-Comrar. Daniel John, k.n. Care 0/ Messri. Caaa and Lovdenaaek,
I, Javici-itreet, Adelphi, W.C.
1879
May, Kev. J, C, Sierra Leone. Care uf J. R. Liinjier, Esq., lirnxholme,
Thurhir-hill, Loicer Sfoncood, S.E.
1876
May, Wm., Esq. St. Mary Cratj, Kent.
1858
MHycr, Jo»rph, Esq., r.8.A. 68, Lord-street, Liverpool.
lBt}2
p.
Mayne, Renr^AdmJml Richard Charles, O.B. 101, Qtteen'e^ie, S.W. ^^H
1858
Mayo, C«]>Uin John Pole. Army and A'avy Clult, S. W. ^^M
I8JJ7
MaysoD, John S., Esq., J.P. 5, St. Jamea't-ttjvare, Manchester, ^^H
1863
Meode. The Hon. Robert Henry. Colonial-office, S.W.; and 32, Belgr^tM^
square, S. W.
1874
Meadows, Dr. AHVeiU 27, Gcorye-street, Ilanover-sqwtre, \Y.
1875
Meakin, Edw. E., E«q. RosenfeU, Red-hill, Surrey ; and 22, FenehurcK-stixel,
E.C.
1879
Means. Rev. Dr. J. 0. (Secretary of American Bo ml ofForeigu Missions). Beaoaa-
street, Boston, U.S.A.
1094 ^J
1
Roycd Geographical Society.
Ixsix
T«w«f
1872
1871
1862
1876
1874 I
1854
1838
1877 ,
1875 j
1875
1868 I
I
1871 :
1866
1871
1867
1874
1871
1837
1865
1879
1863 I
1873 :
I
1848 I
1870 I
1868
1879
1872 '
1876 \
1874
1861
1868
1853
1861
I Measom, George Samuel, E«q. St. Margaret's, TuickenAam.
p. I Medhnwt, Sir Walter H., Knt. AtJuncnm Clvb, S. W.
I MedljrcoU,* Commander Merrjm B., R.N. Care of Messrt. Woodhead and Co.
44, Charmg-cnu, S.W.
^eiggi,* John G., Esq. 19, Oreat Winchester-street, E.C.
' Heinertshi^n,* Daniel, Eiq. 10, RutUmd-gate, S.W.
Melrill, Major-Generml Sir Peter Helrill. 27, Palmeira-square, Brighton.
I Melvili, Philip, Enq., r.K.A.8. Ethy-house, Lostmthiel, Cornwall.
' Mendel, Samuel, Esq. Chislehurst, JCent.
Menzies, Jas. Irvine, Esq. 76, Stamford-street, S.E.
Mercer, Thomas, Esq. Uxbridge.
C. Merewefher, Colonel Sir William Lockyer, K.C.8.I., C.B. 31, Linden-gardens,
Kensington, W. ; and India-office, 8. W.
Merritt,* Douglas, Esq. Leaoote, Ehinebech, New York. Care of H. L.
Sherlock and Sons, 9, Canning-place, Liverpool.
Messiter, Charles A., Esq, Barieick-hovse, near Yeor>3, Somerset.
Messum, Josiah Toung, Esq., r.n., F.R.a.8. (Controller of H.M.'s Packet
Services). Oeneral Post-office, E.C; and Bedford-vUla, Sydenham-road,
I Croydon.
Metcalfe, Frederic Morehonse, Esq. Wisbech, Cambridgeshire.
Methuen, Capt. Hon. Paul (Scots Fusilier Guards). Ouards' Club, Pall-mall,
■j 8.W.
I Mathven, Captain Robert. 54, Scarsdale-villas, Kensington, W.
Mexborongh,* Right Hon. John Chas. Geo., Earl of. 33, Dover-street, W. ; and
Methley-park, near Leeds.
Michell,* General J. E., R.H.A. Care of Mrs, Bus<A, 45, South Audlcy-
street, W.
Michell, R. H., Esq. 130, T/te Grove, Hammersmith.
Michie,* A., Esq. 1, Jeffreys-square, St. Mary Axe, E.C.
Michie, Sir Archibald, Q.C., K.c.M.a. 8, Victoria-chambers, Victorui- street, S. W. ;
and Reform Club, S. W.
Middleton, Rear-Admiral Sir G. N. Broke, Bart. ShnAland-park, Necdliam,
Suffolk ; and 35, Alhemarlc-street, W.
Midwinter,* William Colpoys, E»q. Junior Carlton Club, Pall-mall, S. W.
Miers,* John William, Esq., C.E. 74, Addison-road, Kensington, W.
Miles, Capt. H. S. G. (108th Regiment). Naval and Military Club, Piccadilly, W.
Miles, Lient.-Col. Samuel Barrett (Bombay Staff Corps), H.M. Consul-GenemI,
Baghdad. Care of Mrs. Miles, 8, Edgar-road, Winchester.
Miller, Chas. A. D., Esq. Sherbrooke-lodge, Brixton, S.W.
Miller, Rear-Admiral David. United Service Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
Miller,* Captain Henry Matthew, tt.X. United Service Club, S.W^., and Fern-
side, Sevenoaks.
Miller, Robert Montgomeiie, Esq. Ctdverden-grote, Tunbridge Wells.
Miller,* Admiral Thomas. United Service Club, S. W.
Miiligan, Joseph, Esq. 6, Craven-street, Strand, W.C.
2I2^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^u^^l^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l
Ixxx.
Li'at of FeUoxrs of the ^^^^^^^^^|
Tear of
1857
Hills, Arthur, E^i. 34, I{ijde-[jark-g<irdens, W,
1S80
Mills Capt. Charles, C.M.O. Cape Toum ; and Wandern'g Cltib, PalUMxH, S. W,
1380
MilU, Frederick Churles, Esq. Oxfoi-J and Cavihriclge Clu^ S.W.} and 106,
Jermijn-ntratt, S. W.
1877
Mills. Jno. ElSioit, Etq. Care of W. II. Plaiater, Enq., Tht Sycamorn, High-
road, Tollenham.
1877
MiUward, Victor, Esq., j,t». Fair Vieir, SeddUch, Wctnxstershire.
1860
Milman, Ueut.-Col. Everanl S., Go^-emor H.M.'« Priuon, Hollowaij, N.
1866
C.
Milne, Admintl Sir Alei., Bart., g.c.b. 1, Lowtuks-itreel, S. IV'. ; and
Inveretk, Husselburjfi.
1879
Mibe, J. V^ E«q, Henley •tiovae, Mortimer-road, KUhttm, N. W.
1867
Miltier, Rer. John, BJL The Rtetonj, MiddletQn-in-T«e»dale, Darlingtotu
1872
Mitchell, Willinm Aug., Esq. Botcoltel, Park-place, Leyion.
1874
Slitfovil^ Col. Juo. Philip Osboldeiton. Mitford Castle, iforpeth, Nartkiunltcr-
land ; and .irmy and A'avy Club, S, W,
1879
Mobcrly, )lnjor-Geneial Fr&iieu John, n.K. 50, Sut/ierlaHd'gardena, Barrov
road, W,
1851
MocatU,* Frederiek E)., Esq. 9. Connaught-place, W. ^^
1873
r-
MolTat,* Kev. Dr. Robert. Park-cottaijc, lAngh, Tunbridge, Kent. ^H
1879
Moffat, Roht. Jno., Esq. Oreat SMford, Cttmhridijeithire. ^^^k
1873
Slol«j-n», Mrtjor T. A. de, r.a, .'^3, Seymowr-atreH, Portman-sqUMV, Wi ^^|
1879
Miiller, Ole Peter, I-iq. 15, The Terrace, Blackheath. ^H
1879
Sloloney, Ciipt. A. C, Care of Messrs. Cox and Co., Craiift-oourt, S, W. ^^H
1876
Mol)-Deui, Major W, C. F. Zrd Brvjade Office, Aldsrdwt ; and Junior United
Service Club, S. W,
1$70
Moncta, \)oa Ponipeio, C.E.
1877
Moncj, Lioutonant-Coloiiel Gcmnl Noel (Pien;j.il StalT Corp«). Stodhanp-park,
Petersfield. Care of Messrs. If, S. Kimj and Co., 65, ComJiill, E.C.
1871
Montagu, Jno. M. P., Esq. Dotcne-luiH, Bridpnrt, Dorset, atui Union Ctitb, S. W.
1862
M«jtagu«,» Lieul.-Coloiiel Horace. 6a, W^tterloo-place, S. W.
18S0
Muut«fiorr, Jacob, Esq. 35, Jfyde-park-tqwuv, W.
1830
Motitcfiore,* .Sir Mose«, Bart., F.ii.s., F.R.S.S.A, 7, Grostienor-yate, Park-lme,
W.; and East-cliff -lodtje, iiainsijate.
1870
Mont'^mery, Jno. B. H., Esq. 33, Mount-street, Grastenor -square, W,
1878
Montgomery, Percy Hugh Seymour, Esq. Grcj Abbey, Ireland.
1860
MoiitRomery, Robert Mortimer, Esq. :i, Porohester-plaoe, Oxf»rd-aquar«, W,
1865
Moutgomery, Sir Robert, g.O^.i., E.c.n, 7, Cornicalt-jardens, Queen's-<jate, S, Vl'.
1874
Moodie, G. P. H«q, Care of J. J. Pratt, Es<].. 79, Quecii-ttreet, Cheapside, E.C-
1838
Moody, General 11. C, R.K. Caynham-ftoiise, near LtMjtr, ,vhro]»/iire.
1857
Moor,* Rev. Atlcu P., m.a., F.n.A.s. St. Clement' s^icar aye, Ti-mto.
1874
Moore, Adolphus W., Elaq. India-office, S.W.
186t
Moore, John Cardcfc. E.^q., F.a.5. Co'skoH, Wigtanahire ; and 113, Eaton'
square, S. W.
1870
Moore, John, Esq.
ai6j ^J
Royal Creographieal Society.
Ixxxi
1877
1868
1871
1880
1871
1858
1858
1878
1874
1867
1877
t
Moore,* Joacph, Esq. Sydal'mmmt, Champianrhill.
Mooriiead, A. B., Esq. 8, Si^m/s-gals^ S.W.
Monnt, John H., Eaq., o.E. 10, Victoria'tg/race, Weymouth.
Morant,* Mnjor J. L. L. (R. If ad. Eng.). Mountttvutri, Ootacamund, NcUgkerriei,
Madras Fraidenoy, Care of ifestrs, John Oladding amd Sons, 28a, Pater^
noster-roif, E.C,
Mgre, K. Jit3per, Es]. Linley-haU, Sahp.
Uor^n* Delmnr, £iq. 15, £oland-gardgna, South Kensington, S. W.
Morgan, D. L„ Esq. (Deputy Inspecto^^eneraI, R.N.).
Morgan, Junius Speocer, Esq. 13, Prince' s-gate, Hyde-park, S. W.
Morltmii,* Lieut. "Rtarj, late LN.
Marris,* Cbnrlei, Esq.
Morris, Edw. Ellis, Esq. Care of H. Morris, Esq., Eastcote-house, St. Johns-
park, £lackheath, S.E.
Morris, Edward F. Esq. Wanderers' Club, Pall-mall, 8. W. ; and Pontamman,
Cross Inn, Carmarthenshire.
Morrison,* Alf., Esq. 16, Carlton-house4errace, S. W.
Morrison, Colonel J. C. D. United Service Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
Morrison, Penrson, Esq. Care of John Hockin, Esq., 8, Tohmhouae-yard,
iMJJmrij, E^C.
Morsoa, Thotime, Esq. 124, Soutlian^cm-row, Russell-Square, W.C.
Mortimore, Foster, Esq. 78, Scclestm-s^tare, S. W.
Mosenthal, Adolph, Esq. 23, Ftmbridiie-ajsuiir, W.
Moser, Robert James. Esq. 45, Bedjord-square, W.C,
Moses, Marcus Tertius, Esq. Eberton-Leison-park ; and II, Eustace-street,
Dublin.
Mott, F. T., Esq. 1, De Montfort-street, Leicester.
Mott, ilarcus William, Esq. Oriental Club, Jlanover-sqwire, W.
Moudt,* Frederick J Esq., m.u. (Surgeon-Major and Inspector-General of Prisons,
Bengal Army, &c.). \'2, Durham-villas, Kensington, W,; and Atlienacum Club,
S.W.
Moansey,* Aug. Henry, Esq. (British Legation, Yedo.) Care of It. II. Mounsey,
Esq., Castle-street, Carlisle.
ISIowatt,* Jitmes, 1^., M.A. 5, Kotting-hill-square, 11'.; and Caius College,
Cambridge.
Moxon, Henry James, Esq. 9, Compton-terrace, Hijhhary, K.
Mozley,* H. W., Esq., M.A. Eton College.
Mudie, Char](>£ KJvciirJ, Esq. Muswell-hill.
Muelter, Sir Ferdinand, e.o.m.g., m.d., ph.d. Director of the Botanical Gardens,
Melbourne. Care of Messrs. Dulau and Co., 37, Soho-square, W.
MnggBritJge, W. H. Ei»q, Jiai/iurst, BsvQnshire'road, Wandsworth-road, S.W.
Muir,* Hugh B., Esq. 26, Old Broad-strett, B.C.
Muir,* Thomas, Esq. Madeira ; and 24, }%rk-t<irrace. Regent' s-park, N. W.
Mullens,* Josiah, Esq. 34, Hunter-street Sydney, New South Wales. Care
of Messrs. Browne, 263, Metropolitan Market, E.C.
3195
Tarol
187S
1875
1873
1806
1859
1830
1878
1872
1B68
ISIJO
1872
1876
1670
IBSO
1870
1876
1876
1865
1868
1876
1861
1871
1875
1873
1857
1875
1869
C.
C.
JIulliner, Robt. Bouwrie, Esq. GtHKe-houte, Oroce-pa/h. Chisirici.
Munro, Dr. U , Fark-lane, W.
Munster, His Excellency Count (Am'twasador of the Gerni&n Empire).
Embassy, 9, Cio-Uon-housc-terrace, S. W.
Mnnton, Fraods Kerridge, £»]. Gtouveater-house, Slcn^ridge-park, Willctdfn,
Mutxihison,* John H., E<q. Jnnior Carlton CM, S. W.
Murehison. Kenneth R., Esq. 24, Chapel-street, Park4aru, W. ; and Bmokf'
hwst. East Orinstead, Sussex.
Munlodi,* Sir Thomas W. Clinton, K.C.M.G. 8, Park-street, Westminster,
S. \V. ; anJSS, St. George' s-sqmre, S.W.
Murray, A. H. Hullam, Esq.. b.a. 50, Alhemarle-ttreet, W.
M urmy,* G. S. D., Esq. 118, Pall-maH, S. W.
Murruy,* Henry, Esq. Garrich Club, Gar rick-street, W.C.
Murray, John, Esq. 50, Albemarle-street, }V. ; and Neurstead, WiiMeduii,
S.W.
Murray,* John, juo., Esq. 50, Albemarle-street, W. ; atsd Neicstead, WimbieduH,
S.W.
Mmmy, Lieut. John Geo., k.a. Lisnamavdre, Crossdoney, Ireland.
Murray, T. DouglM, Esq. 34, Portland-place, W.
Mormy,' Miijor W, G, (Beng. Stuff Corpn). Care of Messrs. Sctcetl ait«f
Croictker, 18, Cockspur-street, S.W.; and Portigliolo, AJaccio, Corika.
Marniy, William Vaughan, Esq., M.tui., tm. 4, Weatbourne-oretcenl, JI\/de-
park, W,
Care of M. Xagasaki, Esq., 9, Kensimjton-park-^rdns., W.
Esq. Care of M. Sagasaki, Esq., 9, Kensington-park-
Care of .}fessrs.
NagnobA, M. J., E>q.
NahiBhimn,* N. H.,
gardens, IF.
Nainie, P. A., Eh). 2, Grove-hill, Catnbervell, S.E.
Napier cf Magdalu, Rt. Hon. Lord, SX.D., G.CB.t., r.K.S.
CotUts and Co., Strand.
Napiei-, Miijoi- Hon. Geo. 21, Orottenor-street, W.
N'apier, Willinm, Esq,
NatTx, Cnptniii f^ir George S., n.2«., k.cb. 23, St, Phi^'s-road, Surbiion.
Needh*ni, S. H., Esq., P.O.S. 5, Mecklenburg-street, Meoklenburg-square,
W,C.
Nelson, George Henry, E«q. Wyggeston's llospUat Soys' School^ Leicester.
Xesbitt,* Henr)-, Euq. 12, Victoria-tillas, Kilbum, S. TV.
Neebitt, William, Esq. Junior Carlton Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
XeriUe^ lJettt.-Col. Edward. 0, Bolton-gardms, South Kensington, S.W
3233
Hot/al Geoyraphical Society,
Ixsxiii
1876
1867
1876
185«
1873
1872
1870
1870
1865
1856
1875
1868
1869
1877
1871
1836
1878
1858
1874
1837
1876
1865
1877
1876
1872
1860
1878
1861
1879
Cp.
Pbes.
1865
Toil. XLIX
Newall, Uqor-Generel David J. F. Beldorme-toicer, Ryde, Isle of Wi'jht.
Newall, Wm. Johnstone, E«q. 6, South-street, Park'Uxne, W.
Xewbott, Benjamin, Esq., VAS., &c. 7, Vicarage-gardens, ,Cnmp<icn-
hitt, W.
Newby, Edwin H., Esq. Cluaham^lfuildings, New-bridga-street, E.C.
Newdigate, Lieut-Col. Francis W. (Coldstream Guards). 26, SeyTnour-street,
W. } and Byrkky-lodge, Needicood Forest, Bwton-upon-Tretd.
Newman, Geo. G., Esq, 75 and 76, Comhill, E.C.
Newman, Thomas Holdsworth, Esq. 9, Gt. Cumberland-place, Hyde-park,
W.
Newton, Alfred P., Esq. 15, Sheffield-gardens, Campden-hill, W.
Newton, Wm., Esq. II, Mitre-court, Temple, E.C.
Nicholaa, W., Esq. The Drive, Walthamstow.
Nicholl, Henry John, Esq. 16, Hyde-park-gate, W.
Ni«shol»,» Robert C, Esq. 5, Sussex-place, W.
Nicholson, Sir Charles, Bart., D.C.L. T/us Grange, Totteridge, Herts, X.
Nicholson, Robert, Esq. Loan End-house, Sorham, near Bcnoick-on-TueeJ,
Northumberland.
Niool, Geo. Wm., Esq. 312, South Lambeth-ro.id, S. W.
Nicol,* Robert, Esq. Seform Club, S. W. ; and Westminster-palace-hotel,
8.W.
NicoUe, Wm., Esq, M.A. 107, Lansdowne-road, Xotting-hin, W.
Niools, Arthur Robert, Esq. 11, Church-row, Hampstead, N. W.
Nieolsan, Vice-Admiral Sir Frederick Wm. Erskine, Bart., CB. 15, William-
street, Lowndes-square, S. W.
Nightingale, Percy, Esq. 29, St. James*-road, Tunbrijge-wiells.
Nix, John H., Esq. 77, Lombard-street, E.C.
Noldwritt,* Jno. Spencer, Esq. 44, BenhUl-road, Brunsvnck-square, Cain-
herwll, 8JS.
NoUoth,* Admiral Matthew S. A \2, Albany, Piccadilly, W.; and United
Service Club, S. W.
Norman, Capt. Charles B.
Norman, H. J., Esq. 4, Halkin-street, Grosvenor-place, S. W,
Norman, Lieut-General Sir H. W., E.c.B. 27, Lexham-gardens, Cromwell-road,
S.W.
Normandy, Franlc, Esq.
Norria, Charles, Esq. 124, Wood-street, E.C; and Marischal-road, Lee,
Kent.
Nonia, Harry, Esq. 38, St. James' s-place, S. W.
Norrji, John, Esq. Tanshelf -house, Pontefract.
North, Alfred, Esq. 23, LaJisdowne-crescent, N<riting-hill, W.
Northbrook,* Thos. Geo. Baring, Eail of, o.c.S.i., d.c.l., &c., &c. 4, Hamilton-
place, W. ; and Brooks's Club, St. James' s-street, S, W.
Northumberland, Algernon George, Duke of. 2, Grosvenor-place, S. W.
5356 ,,
Ixjcxiv
Ttuor
w ^^^^H
List of Fellows of (he ^^^^^^^^^H
1875
Kortan, Geo., Emi., m.a. 22, Great Oeorge-drwt, S. W.
1877
Norton, Henry Turtoii, Esq., M.A. 33, ConncaU-fjardnu, Qnttn't-gate, S.W,
1862
Notman, Henry Wilkes, K«q. Choimlty-hdge, Wat-<fnJ, Kilbum, N. W.
1863
""""'* """'■ t
1879
1
Oftke*, William John, Esq. 54, Leren-ttrett, WestmuutfT'road, Liverpool.
1875
Dates, Wtn. Edward, Esq, Mfantcoodskle, neat Leedt.
1858
Ogilrie. Edward D, E«q. Tid^iUar, Clartnce-riter, New SouUi Wales.
1875
Ogilvi«, G«). M., Esq. 14, St. James's-square, S.W.; and Raleigh Cluh,
liegent-itreet, S. W.
1877
O'HaJlomn, Jobejih Sylvester, E«q. \, WJiitehall-gardenB, S.W. ^^
1876
O'Kwffe,* Commr, YelTerlon, r.n. 14, Aving ton-grove, Penge, S.£. ^^M
1873
Older, W. Aug.. Esq. Carrifigton-lodge, Richmond.
1861
Oldershnw, Cupl. Kobert Piggott. St. Leonard' t-lodge, Bedford-park, CrvydoH.
187i
Oldhani, Surgeon-Major C. F. Care of Meters. Qrindlay and Co., 55, Parliainent-
ttrwt, S. W.
1870
Oldham, Henry, Esq., M.D. 4, CavertdieA-place, W,
1855
C.p.
Oliphnnt, Laurence, Eoq. Atherutum Club, S.W. ^^J
1878
OliTer, George, Esq. 10, Mincing-lane, E.C. ^^^^
1866
p-
Oliver, Capt. S. P., a.A. 2, Euttem-vUUu, Anglesey, Gotport, Hants; 4^^|
Scientific Club, 7, S,tvile-rov!, W. ^^
1879
Olsen, Ote Theodor, Esq. 40, Cktihorix-road, GtimAy. 1
1877
Oninianney, Major E4lward Lacon (Bengal .Staff Corp*). WoodsilU-liovae^
Shooter' s-hill-road, BUickhaatk, S.E.
1S45
C.p.
Ommanney,* Admiral .Sir Erasmus, CD., r.R.s., f.ila.S. The Totctr»,
I'armoiUh, Isle of Wight ; and United Service Club, S.W.
1867
Ormnthwaite, John Benii- Walsh, Lord. 2&, BerJceleysijnare, W.
1873
Ormeiod,* Hoiiry Mere, Esq. BroaghtoH-park, Manchester.
1873
Oxpen, F. H. S., Esq. Barkly, Grigualand West ; care of Messrs, Satitge ami
Hill, Pattnersion-bvildingt, Bisfi^piyate-street, E.C.
1875
Omed, Chaa. F. d'Angera, Esq. 4, Albert-mansions, Viuloria-sireet, S. W.
1853
Osboro, Sir George K., Bart. Travellers' CM, S. W.; and Chiokiand-priorji,
Beds.
1861
Osboriie,* Lieut.-Col. Willoujfliby (Political Agent, BItopal, Scftira, India).
1875
Osbonme, Jno. Smyth, Esj., jun. Heat/i-houte, Stapleton, Bristol.
1852
c.
Otwell, William Cotton, Ekj. Groombridge, Kent,
1877
p-
Otter, Baron Fnsderic voa (Minister of Marine), Care of Mr. Thortten iVor-
denfelt, 1, St. Swithin'slane, E.C.
1874
Overall, Wro. Henry, Estj., F.s.A. Guildhall, E.C,
1670
Orerbeck,* Baron dc. Honj-Kong, Care of Messrs, Sing and Co., Bb^
Comlull, E.C.
»37 ^J
J
Roycd Geographical Society,
Ixxxv
1873
1875
1868
1874
1879
1873
1878
1877
1878
1878
1876
1880
1879
1865
1870
1872
1873
1838
1869
1870
1865
1863
1876
1849
1833
1874
1873
1866
1875
1873
1850
1873
C p.
C. p.
Orentone,* Samuel, Lord, U.a., h.RJ. 2, Curlton-gardens, S.W.; and
Wickham-pari, Surrey.
OxaihaiD, Edward Larington, Esq. Nutcomhe'hovtaef Weyhridge, Surrey.
Oxley, Fredk^ Esq. 23, Obucester-creKetU, Hyde-park, W.
Owden, Sir Thomas S., Knt. Mouni-phaaant, PkUip-Ume, ToUmJum,
Packe, William, Eaq. 1, Cavendish-square, W.
Pkiddoii,* Jno., Esq. BarUy, Oriqualand West. Care of Metsrs, Savage and
Mil, Pabnenton^ntildings, Bishopsgatestreet, B.C.
Page, George Gordon, Esq., c.E. 4, Great Jamga-^reet, Orai^S'inn, W.C.
Page, Henry, Esq. Jhdwich-common, S.E.
Page, Wn). Irring, Esq. Wimbledon-common, 8. W.
Paine, Geo. Wm., Esq. Cotsioold-lodge, Farqulutr-road, Dulmch-vmod-park,
Upper Norwood.
Palgrave, Vf. QiSord, Esq. Care of Messrs. H. S. King and Co., Comhill, B.C.
Pallett,* Kobt. Hy. Chas., Esq. Theydon-hall, TKeydon Bois, Essex.
Palmer, Charles James, Esq. 5, MomingUm-viUas, Wanstead-park,
Palmer, George, Esq. 58, Ebury-street, S. W.
Palmer,* Captain George, B.K. Midgard, Hawick, Boaebttrghshire.
Pklmer,* John Linton, Esq., Surg. R.K. 24, Rock-park, Rockferry, Cheshire.
Palmer, Rer. Joseph, B.A., &c. Wells, Somerset.
Palmer, J. Horsley, Esq. 56, Cromwell-road, QueerCs-gate, S. W.
Palmer,* Samuel, Esq.
Palmer,* T. G. A., Esq. 5, Paper-buildings, Inner Temple, B.C.
Pannel, Charles S., Esq. WaitonAodge, Torquay.
Papengouth,* Oswald C, Esq., c.E. Care of W. Homibrook, Esq., 6, Regent's-
square, W.C.
Paris,* H.R.H. le Comte de.
Pimsb,* Chas. Woodbine, Esq. Quarry-house, St. Leonards-on-Sea,
Parish,* Admiral John E., R.N. 6, Bina-gardens, S. W.
Parish,* Sir Woodbine, K.C.H., r.R.S., &c. Quarry-house, St. Leonards-o^-Sea.
Park, Abraham, Esq. Warrington-terrace, Ashton-under-Lyne ; and Morning-
dale-house, Renfrewshire, N. B.
Park, James Dickson, Esq. 48, Queen' s-gate-gardens. South Kensington, S.W.
Parker, Capt. Frands G. S. (54th Kegiment), r.O 8., A.I.CB. Westbere-
house. Slurry, near Canterbury.
Parker,* Honourable Francis. 94, Eaton-square, S.W. ; and 9, King's-Bench-
walk, TempU, E.C.
Parker, James, Esq. Care of Messrs. H. 8. King and Co., 45, Pall-mall, S.W.
Parkes, Sir Barry S., K.C.B. (H.M. Minister Plenipotentiary, &c., in Japany.
61, Rutland-gate, S.W.
Parkin, George Lewis, Eaq. 22, Park-lane, W.
33» g 1
i
Lisf of Fellowt of the ^^^^^^^^^H
KlRMK
1
1877
Parkin, Thomiu, Etq., v.A. 39, Boulevard ffauumanti, Parit. Care of Ber.
' Jolm Piirkiti, ffttlton-ricarage, Hastingi.
1850
0. J..
Parkyns,* Mftiufield, Esq., F.Z.8. Arthurs Clvb, St. Jame$'i-street, S. W. |
1876
Parluie, Ju., Esq. Appleby -lodiie, Jiiisholme, Manc/tetter. J
1877
Paj-r, Comnmader Alfred A. Chaw, r.n. Powya-lodge, BiMey, Kent. ^^|
1872
Pan7, Edward, Esq. 290. Catnden-road, X. IK ^H
1872
p-
Parry,* Francu, Esq. 2, SUnhope-gaardent, Cromteell-road, S.W. ^^|
1880
Paimos, Philip, Esq. 2, Cli/dc-villaa, Croxted-road, DulwicA. ^^^
1873
I'uco, CapUin Crawford, r.n. Care of Messrs. Case and Loudensack, 1,/anfiB
street, Adelphi, W.C. ^H
1874
Pass, Eliiu A. d«, Esq. 7%e Lodge, Bemhrldge, Isle of Wight. ^^|
I8S9
Pasteur, Mam Menry, Esq. 38, Mincing-lane, E.C. ^^H
1867
Paler«oo, Jolin, Esq. 7 and 8, AustraHan-avenue, E.C. ^^1
1S7I
I'atteiison, Jas. Wilson, Esq. lioseland, Waverlcy, Baltimore Co., U,S,A. Cure ]
of Messrs. Brown, S/iiplcy and Co., Lot/ibw;/, E.C. 1
1875
Pattenon, Wylea, Esq. 28, Gloucesler-place, Ifyde-park, W. ^J
1876
Patterson, Maj..Gen. Wm. Tboa. Laird. 6, Spring-gardens, S. W. ^H
1863
PattinaoQ, J., Esq. 21, Bread-street, E.C. ^H
1868
I'aul, J. H., Esq., U.D. The Terrace, Cambeneell, S.E, ^H
1876
Pauli.Cart. W. B., R.N. (U.M. CoMul, Porto liioo). Care of Mesira. WoodheS^
and Co., 44, Cfiaring-cross, S, W.
1874
Paulion, W. H., Eiq., B.A. St. Lawrence-viaarage, Bamsgate.
1873
I'aztoii, Robert Clias., Esq. 24, Stafford-terrace, Phillimore-gardeni, W,
1877
Payne, Lieut.-Col. Geo. Ma^sey. East India United Service Club, 14, St. James's-
square, 8. W.
1847
Paynter,* Willinm, Esq., r,R.A.8. 21, Belgrate-sqvuire, S.W,; and Cajnbome-
hmse, Richmond, Surrey. ^^M
1853
Peacock, George, Esq, Starcrots, tuar Exeter. ^^H
1879
I'eal, Snmuel E„ Esq. Care of S. E. Peal, Esj., K-rnAwit, Mattock-hmt, 1
EaliiKj, W. 1
1876
Penrcj, .losepli, Esq. XTl , Englefield-rood, Ialinot<m, K. ■
1877
Pearson, Arthur A., Esq. Coloniai-offioe, 8. W. ^^J
1874
Pechey, J. T. Pi-imrose, Esq. Leytonstone, Essex. ^^H
1853
I'cckover,* Alexander, Esq., r.L.8. Wisbech, ■
1879
Pedder, W. G., Esq. 25, St. Stephen' s-sqtuire, W. ; and India^office, S. IV. ^J
1875
Peek,* Cutli bert E., Esq, II iiixbledon-l^ouse, S. W. ^M
iseo
Peek,* Sir Henry William, Bart.. v.P. Wimbledon-hoiw, S. W. ^H
1872
Peel,* Captain Franci*. Boxted-hoiue, Colchester. ^^H
1858
Peel, Right Hon. Sir Robert, Bart., «.c.n. 4, Wliitchall-jiinleHS, S. W. ;
urtJ l>raijton-inanor, Tamtcorth.
1874
I'elham,* lion. Arthur L. Stanmer, J^res, Sunex.
1875
C.p.
Pelly,* Colouel Sir Lewis, K.c.n., K.C.8.I. Athenaum CM, Pall-mall, S. W.
1875
Pelly, Capt. Richard W., R.Jf. I^inity Hone, Tavier-hiU, E.C, ; and IMne-
croft, WaUhainatavs, E,
1155 1
Royal Geograpkical Society.
Ixxxvii
1875
1874
1868
1879
1863
1859
1874
1860
1865
1878
1859
1865
1876
1857
1879
1860
', 1879
1871
i 1866
\ 1867
:j 1862
' 1879
1873
1660
1872
1872
1857
1859
; 1878
i "^
I ism
1873
C.
Pembroke, Right Hon. George R. C. Herbert, Earl of. Wiltott-Iwuse, Sitliabury ;
and 10, Vktoria-aquare, Pimlico, S. W.
Pender, StaflMJomm. D., B.lf. Admiralty, Whitehall; and Eaquimalt, Thnmton'
Mil, mnMedon, 8.W.
Pender, H. D., E«). 18, ArlingUm-ttreet, S. W.
Pender,* John, Esq. 18, Arlington-street, S. W.
Pengelly, Thonuu, E«q. Bodriggy-villa, Hayle, Cornwall.
Pennant,* Colonel S. S. Douglas, Penrhyn-cattle, Bangor,
Penrhjn,* Lord. Penrhyn-caatle, Bangor.
Pepjs, Hon. Walter Courtenay. Windham Club, St. James's-tquare, S. W.
Pereira, Franciico E., Esq.
Perkins, William, Esq. Rosario, Argentine Republic.
Perry, Right Rev. Charles, 32, Avenue-road, -V. W.
Ptrrj, Sir Erskine (Member of the Council of India). M, Eaton-plaee,
8.W.
Perry, Gerald R., Esq. BritiaA Consulate, Cadiz,
Petch, Richd., Esq. 16, Wes&oume-park, Hyde-park, W.
Peters,* William, Esq.
Petherick,* Edward Augustus, Esq. 56, Geneva-road, Brixton, S, 11'.; awf 17,
Warwick-aguare, E.C,
Petherick,* John, Esq. 66, Tavistock-crescent, Westbowme-jtark, \V.
Petler, Naval Lieut Eaton W., R.y. Calcutta.
Petter, G. Wm., Esq. Streatham-grove, S.W.
Pharasyn, Robert, Esq. Wellington, New Zealand. Care of Messrs, Scale
and Rogers, 9, Fenchurch-street, E.C.
Phayre, Lieut-Gen. Sir Arthur, C.B., K.C.8.I. Care of Messrs, H, S, King
and Co., 45, Pall-mall, S.W,; and East India United Service Club,
S.W.
Phen^,* John Samuel, Esq., I.L.D., y.s.A., F.a.S. 5, Carlton-terrace, Oakley
street, S. W.
Phibbs, Owen, Esq. Care of W. Phxtbs, Esq., Seafield, Co, Sligo, Ireland.
Philbiick,* Frederick Adolphus, Esq. Lamb-buildings, Temple, E.C.
Philip, Geoi^e, Esq. 32, Fleet-street, E.C.
Philippe, Herbert Rees, Esq. India-office, S, W.
Philippe, Sutherland Rees-, Esq., M.D. Wonford-house, Exeter.
Phillimore, Rear- Admiral Augustus, ShedfielJ, Fareham, Hants; and India
United Sereice Club, S. W.
Phillimore, Charles Bagot, Esq. Hurley Manor-house, Great Marlow; and
Indithcffice, S. W.
Phillimore, Rear- Admiral Henry B., C.B.
Phillimore, Captain William Brough (Grenadier Guards). 7, Hyde-park'
gardens, W.
Phillip*, Edw. Ang., Esq.
Phillips, Geo. Esq. (H.M. Consul, Kiukiang"), Care of Jno. Marsh, Esq., 29,
High-street, Maidstone.
3j88
'iii
L iat of Fellowt of the ^^M
1
laso
I'hiliips, Noblet, E*|. 31, Cambridge-gardens, NoUing-hill, W. ]
1877
Phillips, Thonans Eraest, Esq. St. Mary's School, Seymour-atreet. Kuiioii- ]
*quare, N.W.
1873
l*hillin«-Woll«y, C. L., Y.v\. Morgan-halt, Fairfonl, Ol<Mce$teriMre.
1873
['hilp.Cnpt.Fiiu. Lamb ([{ojnl Scots Gray*). Pendoggett, Ttmsbury, near But h ;
atid Armtj and Kavy Clnb, S, W.
1S71
Philpott, Edward P.. Esq., M.D., LL.D. Poole, Doraetthire.
1878
PhlpMn-WybninU, Capt Temple Leighton, J.r. Dunlow, Moy, Co, T)/n»u;
Ireland,
1872
Pickering.* Joha, E«i. The AbwUe, Mount Preaton, Leeds.
1871
I'ickersgill, VVm. Cnnliffe, Fsq. 58, Primce'a-gaU, S.W,
1878
I'iei-ce, Edwin, Esq. Gwadur, Pei-sian Gnlf. Core of Metsrt. King and Co., ,
fl5, Cornhill, E.G.
1876
Pierce, John Timbrell, Esq. 3, Middle TempMaw, Temple ; FrettOM, Danbwri},
Chelmsford ; and Reform. Club, S. W.
1871
Pieiw, Josinh, Etsq. 1 2, Beaufort-gitrdent, BrompUm-rond, S. W,
1870
I'igott, Halt. Tiirtlp, Eiq., DXI.U Manor-park, Lee, Kent; and 86, JoutAomptoM-
ati-eet, St,-and, W.C. ^_
1874
Pigott, Tboinn» Dighj, Eoq. 5, Ovingtm-gardena, S. \V. ^^M
1864
I'igou,* F. A. P., Esq. Dartford, Kent. ^^M
1853
Pike.* Captiin John W., r.n. 1 16, Bblland-nad, Kensington, W. ^H
1855
PllkiDston, James, Esq. Bltickbum,
1852
p-
Pirn.* CnptAtn IJedford C. '1'., r.». Leaaide, Kingavcccd-road, Ujtper JW-
wood, S.K.; 2, Crown-office-row, Temple, E.C.; and Senior and Junior
United Service Cluba, S. W.
18T0
Piniblett, liev. Jiune*. 26, Qreat Avenhain-atreet, Prtiton.
1880
Piue, Sit B«iijiit»in, k.C.m.o. Orient<jl Club, Ilanover-ajuare, W. ^^M
1859
Pinney, Colouel William. 30, Berkeley-square, W. ^^M
187&
Pirkit, Albert £., Eiq. Penlee, Richmond, Surrey. ^^|
1879
I'trkis, Fnsdk. E., h.k. I'enlee, Richmond, Surrey. ^^H
1877
,
I'itrann, C. E., E«q. milside, GuiUforJ. ^^M
1872
PUuter, W, H., Esq,, M.R.C.8., &c. Tottenham, Middlesex. ^^M
1871
Piatt, Colonel Chu. Rowley. 4, Solton-atreet, Piccadilly, W, ^^H
1865
Player, John, E«q. 22, Carpenter-road, Edgbatton, Birmingham.
18tf0
!'•
E'lsyfkii-, Lieut.-Col. Robeit l.ambert (H.B.M. Couaul-GenerB), Algieri), Care
of Messrs. ff. S. King and Co., 45. PaH-m>dl, S. W,
1880
Plow den, Trevor, Esq. {H. B. M.'« Consul-General, Bagdad. Turkish Ambia).
\Si6
PIriwes,* John Henry, Esq. 39, Fork-terrace, Hegentt-park, K, W.
1880
Plunked Hon. Francis. Tracellera Club, Pall-mall, S. W. ; and care of FortiifH-
office, S.W.
1875
Plankett,* Cupt Geo.T., R.E. Chatham. Care o/Mettra. Cox and Co., Craiff'^m.
court. S. W.
1878
PoUnd,* Jno., Esq. Eliot-vale-IuMae, Blaoklmath.
1873
PolUrd, Henry Thos., Etq. 4, Threadneedte-atreet, B.C. ^J
34JI ^^
M
Roy<d Geographical Society.
Ixxxix
Tmttt
1855
1866
1835
1877
1857
1874
1871
1877
187-I
1878
1867
1861
1862
1878
1864
1859
1868
1864
1870
1879
1873
1873
1868
1S69
1869
1852
1873
1876
1878
1860
1868
1879
1877
1873
1865
1879
1878
1855
1866
PoUezfen,* Captain J. J. India.
Pollington,* John Horace, Vucount. 8, Johnstraet, Berkeley-Square, W.
PooMnby,* The Hon. Frederick G. B. 3, Mount-itrett, 6ro$r)enor'4quare, W.
Poole, Major Wm. John E. (60th Bojal Rifles). Southamptm.
Pope, Captain Wm. Agnew. Union Club, TVafalgarsquare, S.W.
Porgei,* Theodore, Esq. 11, £ue Montalivet, Paris.
Portal,* Wm. Richd., Esq., h.a. Tmge-houie, Lou>er Norwood, S.E.
Porter, Henry, Eaq. 181, Strand, W.C.
Potter, Richard, Eaq. Stcmdisk-house, Stonehouae, OUmcttUnhirt.
Potter, ReT. Wm. Enurald-hiU, near MettxmrM.
Potter, Wm. H., Eaq. Care of 0. T. White, Esq., Kixrara, Toottng'Common.
Pounden,* Captain Lonadale. Junior United Service Club, S. W. ; and Browns-
wood, Co. Wexford.
Povah, Rer. John Y., H.A. 11, Dawson-place, Pemhridge-square, W.
Powell, Frederick, Eaq. The School-house, Bahewell, Derbyshire.
Powell,* F. S., E«q. 1, Cambridge-square, Hyde-park, W.
Power, E. Rawdon, Esq. Heywood-lodge, Tenby, South Wales ,* attd Xhatcfied-
Bouse Club, S.W.
Pownall, John Fish, Esq. 63, Russell-square, W.C.
Powys, The Hon. Leopold. 16, Queensbery-place, S.W.
Prance^* Reginald H., Esq. Frognal, Hampstead.
Prater, Lieut. Charles Golding, B.N. Kincora, Torquay.
Preedj, Col. H. William. The Chantry, Fladbury, near Pershore, Worcesterthuv.
Prevost,* Admiral J. C. 44, South Eaton-place, S. W,
Price, Charles S., Esq. Bryn Dervcen, Neath.
Price, F. G. H., Esq. 1, FUet-street, E.G.
Price, James, Esq. 53, Reddiffe-gardens, South Kensington, S.W.
Price, James Glenie, Esq. 14, Clements-inn, W.C.
Price,* J. M., Esq., aE.
Price, Sir Rose Lambert, Bart. Naval and Military Chib, PiocadUly, W.
Price, Thomas Phillips, Elsq. TrUey-court, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire,
Prickett,* Rev. Thomas William, U.A., f.s.a. 11, Lypialt-terrace, Cheltenham;
and United University Club, Pall-mall East, S. W.
Prideauz, Colonel W. F., Bombay Staff Cor]>8. 2, SicUaw-terrace, Bognor, Sussex.
Pridham, Wm. J., E^. St. James' s-school, Teignmouth, Devon.
Prince, John, Eaq. Devonshire Club, St. James' s-street, S, W.
Prince, John Sampson, Esq. 34, Craoen-liill-gardens, Eyde-park, W,
Pringle,* A., Esq. Tair, Selkirk, N. B.
Pringle, Edw. Hamilton, Esq. Care of Messrs. Wheatley mid Co., 156,
Leadenhall-street, E.C. ; and Scientific Club, 7, Savile-row, W.
Pringle, Major Sir Norman Wm. Drummond, Bart. (38th Regiment). Malta.
Pringle,* Thomas Young, Esq. Reform Club, S. W.
Prinsep,* Edw. Aug., Esq., B.CJ. (Commissioner of Settlements in the Panjaub,
UmriUur). Care of Messrs. H. S. King and Co., 65, OamAiK, E.C.
?46o
"^^^^^^^^^^^^^1
Y«w«f
XlMlaa.
Liri of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^^|
Ifl6«
Pritohard, Lieut.-CoI. Gordon Dougliv, B.E. Montagve-nad, Itichmond; and
United Sereke Club, Pall-mall, 3. W.
t87i
Probyn, Jlaj.-Owieral Sir Kghton JIacoaaghten, V.C, K.CAU, C.B. The Oc^dm-
majiiicns, Queen Annes-{iate, S. W.
1874
Procter, Juo., Esq. Croinwtll-hotiac^ Lonj PratUm, Leed* ; and 2, Crcvtuffic^
row. Temple, E.G.
1872
Proctor, Samuel, Eiq. (Hen<l Slj>st«r, Borough Schools, Sao Fernando, Trinidady.
Care of E. 11. Pennen, Esq., 17, Lime-itreet, E.C. ^h
1866
Proctor-Sims,* Hichard, lLn\., c.k. (Kxfc, Engineer, Bhowouggar, JTattytKB*)^^!
Care of J. S. Manning, Esq., 7, Weatnunater^lian^ra^ S. W. ^^H
1861
Prodgen .♦JiilwlD, E»q. 27i« Rectory, Atfott St. Peter'e, HerU. ^^^
187*
Proth«ro«, Cnpt. Montague. Care of Meatra. Grindlay and Co., 5b, Parltamm^^^
Bireei, 8, W. ; and Junior United Service Cluh, S. W. ^1
1874
Prothenw, P17W, Eaq. Gothk-cottaije, Adelaide-road, S»rf»t(m.
1877
imitk, VV,
1852
Prout, John Willtara, Esq., M.A. Athenamm Club, S.W. ; and I^eaadom,
MiddUsei, N. W.
1878
Prycc, Cnpt. Chas. L. (Sopt. lionrd of Tmde). •• T)ie Park," Hull.. ^^1
1875
Pry or, Kev. J no. Kade. Bennington-rectory, Stevenage, Herts, ^^H
1878
Puckk, Major-Gcnend Jame*. 2, The Terrace, Church-road, Upper Koncood. 1
IflSt!
Puget,* Li«ut,-CoItiiielJ, 8, Cambridge-gate, Begent'i-park, A',W. ^^M
187'J
PulMton, John H.» Etq. 2, Dank-buildingi, Princei-etrect, E.C, ^^H
1860
Puller. Arthur Gileii, K«j. Atherueum. Club, S.W. ; Arthur's Chib, S.W.; ani 1
i'oungsbury. Ware. 1
1876
Pullinau, Henry, E«q. "Normandy," Kev-road, Pichmond. 1
1876
Pullinan, Jno.. Ym], Grme-end, Chisvick. ^^M
1872
Pun<r«r, Wm. B., Etq. ^^H
1B69
Purdon, Lieut. George Frederic, R.N. Tinenara, Kitlaloe, Co. Ctare. ^^M
18C5
Pusey,* Sidney E. Bouverie, Esq. ^^H
1870
Pycroft, Sir Thomaa, K.C.8.I. 17, Clereland-gardent, Hyde-park, \V. ^^|
1861
Quin» Lord George. \b, Belgrave-ntjwire, S.W. ^^^
1879
Quin, Geo., Esq. Woroe*ter, Capc'tovn. Core of Aftasri. White and Nobnra 1
20, Mildmay- chamber I, Biahopagate-street-withiH, E.C. 1
1862
Quin, John ThonMtf, Esq. Care of Mr. Jno. B. WUliama, 101, Highbury- 1
hiti, N. J
1871
liadctiffV, Sir Jotrph P., Bait Budding park, Enarrahorough. ^^^^M
18:'K
Ri«d>tock,* Gninrille AuguMun, Lord. East She^, S.W. ^^^^H
ltS(i9
Kac, Ed Will (i, Ktq. Bed-court, Dirkfnhcod. |^^^^|
3488 ~^H
■
Royal Geographical Soeidy.
xci
1876
1862
1853
1870
1871
1871
1873
1866
1867
1875
1880
1867
1869
1878
1874
1880
1868
1866
1876
1869
1859
1861
1873
1859
1875
1875
1861
1844
1874
1876
1838
1875
1869
1872
€1. C. ^
Pres.
€r. p.
Rae, Henry, Esq. 15, Okl-tquare, Lincoln' s-inn, W.C.; and Oxford and Cum-
bridge Club. Pall-matt, 3. W.
Rm,* James, Esq. 32, Phillimore-gardens, Kensingtm, W.
Bae, John, Esq., M.D., LUD., F.R.S. 4, Addiaon-gardena South, SoUand-vOlat-
road, Kensington, TV.
Raikes, Francis Wm., Esq. Junior Carlton Club.
Ralli, Eusti-atiuit, Esq. 93, Lancaster-gate, W.
lUlli, Pandeli, Esq. . 17, Belgrave-square, S. W.
ISamUut, John, Esq., M.D. The Grange, Qodatone, Surrey.
Ramsay, Alex., Esq. Kilmorey-hdge, Caitlebar, Ealing, W.
Ramsay, John, Esq. lalay, N. B,
Ramsay, Major John. Stralooh, Aberdeenshire.
Ramsdeu, Sir James, Knt Barrwo<n-Fumes$.
Ramsden,* lUchard, Esq., B.A.
Randell,* Rev. Thomas, b.a. 28, Friar's Entry, Oxford.
Randolph, Vice-Admiral George G., c.b. 70, Brunsicici-place, Brighton; and
Unitad Service Club, Pall-mcUl, 8. W.
Rankin, Capt. Fras. W. Worcester-park, Surrey.
Rankin, Lionel Kentish, Esq. Norihicick-villa, Clifton.
Rankin, William, Esq. Tiemaleague, Camdonagh, Donegal.
Raaiom,* Edwin, Esq. Kempstone, near Bedford,
Rapier, Richard C. Esq., C.E. 5, Westminster-chambers, S. W.
Rassam, Hormozd, Esq. Nineveh-house, Spring-grove, Isleworth.
Ratdiff, Colonel Charles, F.8.A. Athenceum Club, S. W. ; Edybaston, Birming-
ham ; and Downing College, Cambridge.
KmU, Lachlan Macintosh, Esq. 9, South Audley-atreet, W.
Rarenscroft, W. H., Esq. Care of Sir C. M'Grigor and Co., 25, Charles-
street, St. James' s-aquare, S. W.
Ravenstein, Ernest G., Esq. Alpha-cottage, Lorn-road, Brixton, S. W.
Rawlings, H. D., Esq., P.Q.8 , Netherlands. Chnlk-hill, Kingsbury, K W.
Rawlins, William Donaldson, Esq., m.a. 4, Wimpole-street, Cavendish-
square, W.
Rawlinaon, Sir Christopher. 89, Eaton-square, S. W. ; and The Lawn,
Swindon.
Kawlinson,* Major>General Sir Henry C, K.c.u., O.C.L., ll.d., f.R.8. Athenteum
Club, 8. W.; and 21, Charles-street, Berkeley-sqiuire, W.
Rawson, Christopher, Esq. KingMorpe, Castle-road, Soiithsea, Hants.
Rawion, Philip, Esq. Woodfturst, Crawley, Sussex.
Rawson, Sir Rawson Wm., k.c.m.q., c.u. Drayton-hoiae, West Drayton,
Middlesex.
liawson, Lieut. Wyatt, tux. Kingsthorpe, Castle-road, Sout/isea, Hants.
Ray, Major Alfred William. 27le Lodge, Brixton-oval, S. W.
Ray, Surgeon-General George H., x.D. Hamam-chambers, 76, Jermyn-s^eet,
S.W.
2f32
xcii
Li»t of Fellows of the ^^|
1
1874
RjiyJeigh,* Loi-d. Terling-plaoe, Witham, Eaex. 1
I8T3
Read, Frederick, Etq. 45, Letmtcf'tquare, W. '
1874
Read, F. W. C, E«q. 17, Colcherne-roiid, S. Kantingtm, S. W.
1877
Head, Gen. John Meredith (Mioitter of the U.S. in Greece). Atltciu. Care of
li. F, Stevens, Etq., 4, Trafatgar-sqitare, S. W.
1879
Rear, Loiil. 0, Great Stanhope-street, \V.
1865
Redhead, H. ^[ilne, Ksq., F.L.8. Springfield, Seedley, ManohaUr; Cmtenatie*
Club, S.W. ; and Junior Carlton Chib, S.W,
1868
Redman,* John B„ Esq., c.E. 7, I.UlU Queen^trett, Weetmituter, S.W.
1871
Reed, Andrew Holmes, Esq. Strat/iem, AmAurst-park, Stamford-hill.
1877
Reed, John ^^'i)liaIn, Esq. 27, Clarenccstreet, hlington, y. ^^H
Rehden,* George, Esq. 15, Richmond-terrac«, Clapham'road, S. W. '^^H
1866
1877
Bind, Alexander, Esq. Georgetoten, British Guiana. Care of the Cotmlal
L'ank, 8, Bishopsgale-streei, E.C.
1861
Reid,» DnvJd, E»q.
1861
Reilly, Anthony Adanu, Esq. 1, Paper-buildiHgt, Tetnple, E.C: <tnd OMri^
broohf, Del'jany, Ireland. ^^|
18B9
R^«,* Jaraea, Esq. 7, Cromicell-road-hoiiset, Souih Kan$iiujton, 8,W. ^^M
1877
Remfry, Frederick Ernest, Esq. Firsleigh, Torquay. ^^H
1872
Renifrj, Jdo., Esq, The Grange, Sightingale-lafie, Clapham-common, S, W.
1866
Kennie,* John Keilh. Esq., m.a. Camb. 2, EcckHon'syuare, S.W.
1877
Kennie, Joho Thomson, Esq. 6, Eatt India^oenru, E.C; and Deenwunt'
houte, Aberdeen,
1834
Rennie,* M. B., Esq., c.z. Care of Jamet Rennie, Etq., 9, Motcoiftb-^ireftf,
Belgrave-aqitare, S. IV. 1
18rt4
Rennie, W., Esq. 6, Great Cumberland-place, W. ^J
1877
Rnniihaw, Chos. B., E5q. Eldtrtlie, Renfrewshire, N. B. ^^|
1830
Renwick,* Genei-al VV. F., n.E. 21, Dauett-road, Notling-hill, W. ^^|
1861
[tenter, Julias, Baron de. Keixaington-palace-gardent, W. ^^H
ISJVS
Reynardaon, Henry Birch, Esq. Adteell, near Teteworth, Oxfordshire.
1872
Reynolds. VVilliam Henry, Esq. Care of Messrs. King and Co., 65, ComhiU, E.C,
1867
Ethodes, Arthur John, Esq. Sunnyside, St. Albans,
1874
Rhodes, Hon. Wm. Barnard (Mem. Li^is. CooDcil, New Zealand). WelUtiQtoti^
New Zealand. Care of Messrs, Jas. Morrison and Co., 4, Fenchurch'St., E.C,
1863
Ricardo-Searer,* Major F. Ignncio. Consereaiive Club, St, James's^ 8. W.
1870
Rice, Wm., Esq.
1868
Richards, Alfi'ed, Esq. Tetckesbury-lodge, Forest-hilt.
1874
Richanls, Cnpt. F. W., R.S., c.B. United Scrcice Club ; and H.M.S, * Deuaio'
turn.' Channel Sijuadron,
1857
C.p.
Richards, Adiniiitl Sir Georg* H., C.B., fM.s, VimcowrrJu>fue, Fornt-hill, S.S,
1874
Richards, M. \V., E*q. Shore-road, S. Ilachiey, E.
1877
RtchardMn, Edwin J., Esq. 28, IMke-street, Manchester-square, W.
1864
Richardson, F., Esq. Juniper-hall, Mickte/tam, Dorking, ^t
188<'
Richca,* Arthur, Esq. Brunswick College Schfiol, Leamtngton. ^^M
3S58 ^H
M
Royal Geograpldcal Society.
xciu
Ikwaf
1875
1873
1876
1877
1864
1864
1874
1875
1862
1868
1879
1860
1853
1874
1859
1877
1876
1868
1875
1874
1860
1875
1861
1877
1870
1863
1873
1880
1870
1875
1873
1872
1859
1878
1864
1874
1865
1862
1860
C.p.
Pbes.
Bider, T. F., E«q. 25itf Grova, Ck^p/utm-road, S. W.
Riddell, Lieat. H. S. Hatton (2Dd BrvtLilLo» Wih Rifles). Afeervt.
Rideal, John, £«q. Deoon-lodge, Mayov!~road, Foreii'hiU.
BU^tij, John Ambroae, Esq. Foundatbm School, Beverley,
fOUey, F. H., Esq.
Rkllej, George, E«q. 2, Charles'Street, Berkeley-square, W.
Ridpath, Junes Lionel, Esq. 2)0oo»4a«on, Wimbledon^parL
Ridpath, Thomas Alex., Esq. 9, Eelsize^pafk, Sampstead.
I^igh/,* Mujor-Geoera] CSiristopher Palmer. Oriental Clvb, W.; and 14, Man*-
fieU-atreet, W.
Mej, Captain Charles Henry. Junior United Service Club, 8. W.
Himnwl, Eug^ns, Esq. Strand, W.C.
Rintottl, Robert, Esq. Windham Club, S. W.
RipoD, Atofit Hon, Geo. Fredk. Sam., Marqais of, K.a„ F.B.8. 1, Carlton-gcarJens,
8. W. ; and Studley Boyal, Ripon.
Ritchie, Her. George St. Martin (Chaplain to the Forces).
Rivers, MajoivGen. Pitt 19, Pen-y-icti-n-Foad, South Kensington, 3.W.
Robarts, H. C, Esq. 41, Z<mmdes-iqvare, S. W.
Roberts, Rer. Chas. M. The Oramjuar-sch&ot, Monmouth.
Roberts,* Charles W., Esq. Penrith-house, Effra-road, Brixton, 8. W.
Itoberts, W. C, Esq. New Zealand.
Robertson, A. D., Esq. 53, Qveen's-gate, S. W.
Robertson, Sir D. Brooke, c.b. AtAencsttm Club, S. W.
Robertson, 1>, 1. U., Esq. 174, Chatham'Street, Falkner-square, Liverpool.
Robertson,* Graham Moore, Esq. 21, Cleveland-square, Hyde-park, W.
Robertson,* Henry, Esq., ii.p. 13, Lancaster-gate, W. ; and Pali-hall, Corwcn,
a\' Wales.
KoiKTbtati,* Jivmes Nisbet, Esq. Fewlands, Banstead, Surrey.
Robertson, R. B., Esq. (H.M. Canaul, i'okahama, Japan).
Robertson, M^r Wheatley. 35, Qv4sen'»-gnrdens^ W.
fobiD,* Charles Jimvrin, Esq. United Uainersity Club, Pall-mall East, S.W.
RobiosoD, Alfred, Esq. Elm~baf»&, Jlwklcrsficld.
Robin»on,* Arthur M., Esq. 32, Bmonshire-road, Claughton, Birkenhead,
Robinson, Capt. F. C. B., R.K. Care of London Joint Slock Bank, Pall-mall, S. W.
Robinson, Henry, Esq., m.LC.e., f.O.S. 7, Westminster-chambers, S.W.
Robinson, Sir Hercules G. R., g.c.h.o. Messrs. Burnett, 17, Surrey-street,
W.C.
Robinson, James, Esq. Bulwich-college, Dulwich.
Robinson, John, Esq. Care of Messrs. Street and Co., 30, Comhill, E.C.
Robinson, John, Esq., C.E. Kingscote, East Grinstead.
RobinKm, J. R., Esq., LL.D., F.S.A. Scot., F.0.8. Edin. 597, Weitgate, Devs-
bury.
Robinson, Colonel Sir John Stephen, Bart Arthur's Club, S.W.
Robinson, Mr. Seijeant (B.C.). 43, Meeklei^mrgh-square, W.C,
3597
xciv
YhtoI
Uictkin.
List of Felloti's of the ^^^^^^^^^H
187^^
Robinson, Vincent Joseph, Esq. 34, Wi^yimtuth-strcet, TA'.
1850
Robinson,* Captain Waller ¥., B.S. Cure of Dr. Addison, 10, Albert-mad
Brighton,
1872
Robinsou, Wm., Esq., CM.a. Colonial-cffice, 8. W.
1870
li«l.in»on. Sir W. C. F., K.c.u.o., Governor of W. Anstralio. Ccwt of Cobmiut-
ofice, S. W.
1880
Koclicr,* Einile, Esq. 8, Storey' t-gate, St. Jameift-park, S. W.
1858
Roch(.-i;t«)', [tight Her. A. W. Tborold, Bithop of. Sehdon-park, Coydon; cmJ
At/icncnm Chtb, 8,W.
1830
RoJd,* Jame* Eenaell, E«q. 20, Btta^ort-gardent, S.^V.
1879
Rodil, W. Henry, Esq, Ltakinuiick, Peiuance,
1874
Rogers, Major Ebeocier, G ailing-house. Great Che«tham-street, Manchester,
1877
Rogers, Edvsad C, Esq. Thrtt Ccmtia Asylum, StUfold, Baldock. ^H
1863
Roger*, John T., Esq. River-hill, Stvenoaka. ^^H
1874
Rogenton, Geo. KusselJ, Es(i., F.B.A,8. Beech-cottage, Calderttone'road, Allerton, 1
•MOT Literpool. J
1861
Rollo, Lor.i. fhinwrieff-castle, Moffat, N. D. 1
1860
p-
Rooke, Mnjor W„ r.a. Fortnosa, Lyminglon, Hants, ^^H
1871
Hooks, G«o. Arthur, Esq. \2, Bloomsbury-aquare, W.C. ^^H
18G8
Ro«e, Henry, E»q. 8, Porchester-tqwire, Hyde-park, W. ^^H
1872
Rose, H. Cooper, E»q., m.d. ffampstead. A'. W. ^^
1861
Rose, Ju. Anderson, En], Wandsworth, Storiiy, 8.W.; and 11, SaliiiM'^j-
street, W.C.
1870
Rose, The Right Hon. Sir John. Burt., K.c.M.a. 18, Quenfi-giie, Jfyik-
park, S. IV.
1857
liojie,* Colonel Sir Win, Anderson, AldermaD, F.IU,L. Carlton CV«6, S.W.;
66, Upper Thames-street, E.C. ; and Upper Tooting, S. W.
1878
Kosenthil, Alfred Ephmim, Esq. Care of J. D. Bosenthal, Esq., 10, Suffolk-
street, Dublin.
1876
Rosenthal, L,, Esq. 10, Delamere-terrace, N.W.
1876
V-
Ross, Lieiit.-ail. E. C. Care of Messrs. Qnndlay and Co., bb. Parliament-
street, 8. M'.
1870
Rom, Capt, Geo, Ernest Auguftu*. Forfar-house, Cromieell-road, South Ken-
sington, 8. W.
1879
Rost of BUdensburg,* Lieut. Johu. c.o. 27, Wesibaume-ptaoe, Eaton-sqitarst
8.W.
1878
lioM, Rer, Geo. Gonld, 8t. Andrew's College, QrahamstoMm,
18*54
Roundelt,* C. S„ E»q., H.p. 16, Cursonrstreet, Mayfair, W.
1864
Routh*, E. J,. Esq., M.A., P.R.S., F.R.A.S., fcc. St. Peter's College, CanAridgt.
1874
Itoutledge, Etlmuud, Esq. 40, CUinricarde-gardens, Baysicater, W,
1876
Routledge, ThomM. Esq. Claxheugh, Sunderland.
1872
Row,* A. V. Nursing, Esq. Daba-garden, Vitagapatam, India, Care of
Messrs. King and Co., 65, Comhill, E.C.
1868
Rowlands* Percy J., Esq. In<iia-office, S.W. ^^^
1863
Rowley, CaptAin C, R.M. i\ Cadogan-place, S.W. ^^^H
Royal Geographical Society.
xcv
tteraf
c.
1873
1852
1875
1874
1373
1874
1367
1862
1863
1867
1868
1869
C.p.
Rojds,* Geroent M., Esq^ J.P. QremkiU, Bochdala, Lancashire.
Rocker, J. Anthony, Esq. Blackheath, 8JE.
Radge, Wm. Newland, Esq. 17, S(ndh Avdley-ttrtet, W. ; and EthyNaan,
Torquay, Devon,
Rambold,* Charles James Augustus, Esq. 5, Percivai-terraoe, Brighton.
Rumbold, Capt. H. E, W. Junior United Service Club, Charkt-strett, 8.W.
Rambold, Thomas Henry, Esq. 38, Sustexsquare, Brighton.
Romley, Irlajor-General Randal. 16, Eaton-terraoe, Eaton-square, 8. W.
Rasden,* Geo. W., Esq. Care of R. B. Ottley, Esq., 39, Ladbrohe-square, W.
Russell,* Lord Arthur, x.P. 2, Audley-square, W.
Russell, George, Esq., h.a. Vitwfield, Southfiekb, Wandsteorthi and 16, Old
Change, St. PauTa, E.C.
RusadI, Peter N., Esq. Junior Carlton Club, Pall^mcdl, S.W.
Russell,* Robert, Esq. 42, An>emarle-street, W.
Russell, Thomas, Esq. Baremere-hall, ffurstgreen, Sussex.
Russdl, Thomas, Esq. 22, Eenaington-palace^ardena, W.
Kiissell, Wm. Howard, Esq., ll.d. Carlton Club, 8. W.
Rutherford,* David Grelg, Esq. Care (/ Bev. P. Rutherford, 34, Grey-street,
Park-grove-place, Glasgow,
Rutherford, John, Esq. 2, Cavendish-place, Cavendish-square, W.
Rutson, Albert 0., Esq. 7, Half-Moon^street, W.
Rntson, John, Esq. Newby Wiske, Thirsk, Yorkshire,
Ruxton, Captain W. Fitzherbert, R.N. 41, Cornwall-gardens, S, W,
iJyder,* Admiral Alfi-ed P. Admraltij-house, Portsmouth,
Ryder, G., Esq.
Sabel, Ernest E., Esq. 185, Maida-tah, W,
Sabine, Lieut-General Sir Edw., R.A., K.C.B., F.R.A.8., &c. 13, Ashley-ploc;,
Victoria-street, Westminster, S, W.
Sadgrore, Arthur William, Esq. 64, Mark-lane, E.C. ; and Elt/iam, Kent,
St. Albans, His Gi-ace The Duke of. Bestwood-park, Arnold, Notts,
St. Clair, John, Esq. Newton Stewart, Wtgtonshire.
St. Jean, Le Vicomte Ernest de Satg& Makem Wells ; and Junior Athenaum
Club.
St John, Major Oliver Benucharap Coventry, R.E., c.s.i. (H.M. ConsiJ,
Asterabad), Care of Messrs. II, S. King and Co., 65, Comhill, E.C,
St. John, Spenser, Esq., British ilinistei- I'ur Peru. 150, Cambridge-sti'eet,
Piirdico, S. W.
Sale, Captain M. T., R.E. 6, Albemarlc-street, W,
Salkeld, Colonel J. C. (H.M. Indian Forces). 29, St, James' s-street, S, W.
Salles, J. de, Esq. 59. Stanfiope-gardens, South Kensington, S, W,
Salmood,* Robert, Esq.
3664
Vnrof
ElMSdOO.
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^^^^H
1875
S»]oraoo»,* Sir Da^-id, Bart. Sroovt-hUI, Tmbrid<je Welh; and 46, Ufpcr
Berktley^treet, W.
1 18R3
Salt,* Henry, Esq. Egremont, Bournemouth.
1875
Selthonae, Kev. Robert. St, Jamea's-parsottage, Wsit Derby. .
IBiil
Saodbftch,* Wro. KobcH«>», Esq. 10, Prmot^a-gatt, Hyde-parh, S. W. ^H
1867
Snudeman, CAptaiu [)arid George. ^^^
1877
Saademan,* Kleetwood, Esq. 15, Hyde-park-gardens, W.
1874
SwuiersM, Rev. Edwai'd. 2%* Vkarage, High Hurst Wood, Vckfeld
SmKJc.
1879
Sinderaon,* T. U-.^EBq., c.B. 65, Wmp<Je-etr«!t, W.
1877
SAtidiknds, John Alejander, Esq.
1680
Sanford,* Lieut.-Colonel George Edwanl L. S. Qmritrmaaler-GeneroTs-ofict,
Fort William, Calcutta.
1862
Sanford, Lieut. -Colcuiel Henry Ay»hrord. 29, ChcMttr^trtet, Grotvmor-piact,
S. W. ; and Nynehead-couri, Wellington, Scmertcl.
1870
Sanford, W. Ayshford, Emj., f.r,3. Nynehead-cowt, WeUington, Somen^,
1878
Sapp. John Joine*, £^. Fahnerston-roud, Soutliaea.
1860
h
Sarel, Majnr-Grneral H. A., C.B., Rolleshy-hall, Great Yarvvinth ; and Unittd
Service C7u6, Pali-inatl, S.W.
186»
Sarll, John, Eaq. Beautxn'r-houte, ffMngton-park, St. Leonardt-on-Sca.
1860
Sartorii, Alfred, Ekj. AbboHttcood, StouHm-the-Wotd.
1862
Sautnarez, Heiu>Adintral Thoraaa, c.u. The Fire, Jersey. ^^H
1874
Sumider*, Fnu., Esq. 6, LitnetijrOM, Leteisham, S.E. ^^^M
1674
Saunder«, Ifoward, Esq. 7, Budnor-place, Gloucestcr-tquare, W.
1866
Sounder*, James Ebenexer, Esq., F.L.8., T.QS., r.S.A.E, 9, Fintbury-circut ;
and CMtistone, 36, Ue-lcrra>ie, BlackhtatA, &j:.
1879
Saurin, Dudley E., Esq, 37. Prince' s-gate, S. W.
1878
Sarory, Major H. B. Navai and Military Club, Piccadilly, W.
1863
Sawyer, Majnr-Geneml Charles (6tbjDnigooii Guards). 20, Botand-gardene, S.W.
1875
Schafer,* Wm, Kredk,, E»q, Lydetep-hmue Highgate, K.
1874
Schalcfa, Vernon Itotlulph, Esq. 29, DorteUtijuare, N. W.
1678
Scluff, Alfred G., Esq. Santandrea, Cranford, near Ilomelov, MiddUux.
1874
Scholfield, William F., Eeq. 55, Onsloto-gardens, S.W.
1878
Sohon, lieT. Jame* Fr<^erick. Palm-hotue, Chatham, Kent. ^^H
1880
Sclater, P. L., Eiq., F.n,8. 11, Hanorer^siptare, W. ^^H
1870
Scobell, Sandford Geo. T., Esq. Doien-houte, Bed MarUy, Glouceiter. ^H
1875
Sconce, Gideon C, Esq. 14, St. Jame^s-iquare, S. W. ^^H
1872
Scott, Abraham, Esq. ^^^|
186C
Scott, Adam, Esq. 10, Knatchbull-road, Cambericell. ^^H
1866
Scott, Arthur, Esq. Botherfietd-park, Alton, Hants; and Traicllerif (^^|
S.W. ^H
1879
Seott, Sir A . D., Bart. 97, Eaton-iquare, S. W. ^|
187!*
Scott, • Dugald, Esq. The Moorlands. Kersal-edge, Manchester. ^H
1878
Scott, Miyor-General Edw. W. 33, Brunsicick-gardens, Camjiden-hiJl, W, ^^m
2701 1
d
Royal Geographical Society.
xcvu
1876
1862
1861
Soott, Lord Henry. 3, TUney-ttnet, Park-lane, W.
Scott,* Herculec, Esq. Brothertm, near MontroM, N. B.
Soott,* Junes Benjamin, Esq. 32, Coal Exchange, City, E.C. ; and Walthcmxtow,
Soott, John Charles A., Esq. 6, Cambridge-gate, Begenfa-park, N.W.
Soott, Capt. P. A., R.H. Care of W. T. Littlejohns, Esq., Boyal Xaval
CoO^e, Greenwich, S.E.
Soott, Wm., Esq. 6, Chepstouh-place, Baysicater.
Scmtton, Alexander, Esq, 2, Upper St. Johns-park, Blaokheath, S.E.
ScoTsll, George, Esq. 25, Qrosvenor-place, S. W,
Searight, Hugh Ford, Esq. 7, East India-avenue, E.C.
Searight, James, Esq. 80, Lancaster-gate, W.
Seaton, George, Esq. East London Water-wyrka, Old Ford, E.
Seaton, Maj.-Gen. Lord. i>3, Albany, W.
Sedgwick, Jno. Bell, Esq. 1, St. Andreu^s-place, Regent' »-park, N.W.
Scebohm, Henry, Esq. 6, Tenterden-street, Hanover-square, W.
Sedey, Harry G., Esq., F.L.8., F.G.8., &c. 61, Adelaide-road, N. W.
Seely,* Charles, Esq., jnn., H.p. 7, Queen's-gate-gardens, South Kensington,
8. W. ; and Sherteood-lodge, Nottinghamshire.
SegiaTe, Capt. W. F. (H.M. Consul, StodUu^m).
Serooold,* Charles P., Esq. Brewery, Liqvorpond-street, E.C.
Serem, H. Augustus, Esq. 9, EarTs-cowt-square, & W.
Serin, Charles, Esq. 155, Fenahurch-street, E.C.
Sewell, Stephen A., Esq. .56, Kensington-gardent-square, W.
Seymour, Alfred, Esq. 5, Chesterfield-gardens, May/air, W.
Seymonr,* Admiral Sir F. Beauchamp, k.cb.
Seymour,* Majoi^eneral W. H., C.B. United Service Club, PaU-mall, S. W.
Shadwell,* Admiral Sir Charles F. A., K.C.B., F.B.8. Meadmo-bank, Melksltam,
Wilts.
Shadwell,* Lieut-Colonel Lafrrence.
Shanks, Major Joseph G., B.11.L.1. Plymouth, Deton.
Share,* Staff-Commander James Masters, fua. Mvtley-park, near Plymaeih,
DevonAire.
Sharp,* Colin Kimfaer, Esq. Belgrave-mansions, Grosvenor-gardens, S. W.
Sharp, Captain Cyril. 7, Ihurloe- square, S. W.
Sharp, Henry T., Esq. 8, Park-lane, Mayfmr, W.
Sharpe,* William Jdin, Esq.
Shaw, C. Bousfield, Esq. 25, Charles-street, St. Jame^s ; and 2, Esses<owt,
Teti^le.
Shaw, Geo., Esq. 7, Garrick-street, W.C.; and Oakwood-house, Bostrevor,
Ireland.
Shaw,* John, Esq. Finegand, Otago, New Zealand. Care of Messrs, Beith
and WWeie, Dunedin, Otago, N.Z. Per Messrs. San^son Low and Co.,
188, Fleet-street, E^).
Shaw, John Ralph, Esq. Arrowe-park, Birkenhead.
»737
XCVlll
Lht of Fellows^^h^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^M
T«*r of
n«Uun.
1
187«;
Shnvr, W. Otho Nicbolns, Eaq. J
1879
Sheaa, Arthur Willmm Chules, Eaq. 18, Fituburif-circM, E.C. 1
1870
Shcamie,* EdwKid, Esq. 94, Jlegent't'park-road, N. W, i^^H
1874
Shelley, Edward, Ew}. Avington, Winehester. ^^H
1868
Shelkj,* Cai>Uiu G. Eruest. ^2, CheaJtam-place.S.W. ^^M
1807
Shepherd, Chaa. Wm., E»q., U.A., F^.s. Trotter icligty Maidstone. ^^^
1878
Shepherd, jHtne*, Esq. \\i, LcMOOMttr-gate, W. ^^|
1879
Sliepherd, dipt. Willian), R.E. Brompton^rracka, Chnttuim. ^^H
1860
.Sheridnn, H. lirinAley, K«q., M.P. 6, (kUville-gardens, KenaingUm-pfirk, W, ^^H
1863
Sheridan, Iliclidrd B., Esq. 119, Grosvenor-phce, S.W.
1857
Sherrin, Joseph Samuel, Esq., Ui.d., i>h.d. St. John'a-oottege, Tafnett-park, N.
1877
Shtllinglaw, John Joseph, Esq. Melbourne, Victoria. Care of Cashel Jloey, Eeq,,
o^cf of Aijent-Oeneml of Victoria, 8, WeitmintteT'chtin^n, S,\Y. J
1858
.Shipley,* Conway M., Esq. Twyford-tnoors, Winchester. 1
1868
Shirl«y, Lionel H.. Esq., C.E., ic. Windham Club, 8.W.; and iO, Great 1
Georijfitreei, S. \V. J
1871
Shoolhred,* Junies, Eiiq. .18, Lancasier-gate, Hyde-park, W. 1
1873
Short, Robert, Ejq. Duf/iton-Iodge, Hujhhury'newpark, N. ^^1
1872
.Shuter,* Willmm, Eiiq. 66, Beleize-park-gardens, Ewoerttodt-hiU, N,W, ^^|
1876
Sibley,* George, Esq., C-E. The Mount, WTiilehiJI, Caterhcim, Surrey. 1
1879
V
Sibree, Rer. JamcB. Otre of T. II. Richardson, Esq., Vork-villa, WeHhail-nc^^
Lordth'p-lanc, Dulurujh, S.E. ^^H
1876
.Stduey, Capt. Kreil. W., r.n. ^^M
1871
Silb,* Wm. Dernai-d, Esq. ^^M
1B77
SilUer, John, Esq. 4, Cronucell-houaes, South Kensington, S.W. ^^H
1865
SilvB,* Frederic, Esq. 97, Westboume-terraoe, hyd<hpark, W. ^^^
1850
Silver, the Kev, Fred., m,a., F.R.A.S., p.oji., f.l.s. Beetory, Norton-iH-ITaIe»,
Market Driiyton, Salop,
1859
c.
Silver,* Stephen Wm., E«q, 66, Cornhill, E.C. ; and 3, Fork-gate, Begent't-
park, N. W.
1878
Sim, Lieut-Colonel Edward CoysgarDe, B.E. Vmted Seniee Clvb, Pall-matt.
B.W.
1863
Simmons, Edw. R., Esq. NevUl-houte, Belgrave-terrace, Brighton.
1848
Simmons,* General Sir Jolin L. A., r.e., q.c.b. 36, ComttaU-gardent,
Kensington, S. W.
1866
SinKHW, Henry M., Esq. Ty«rtaU-cre$cent, Wood-road, SydenA»m-)till,
S.E.
1879
Simpson, Arthur T., E*q., C.E. 5i, St. George' gtquare, S.W.
1864
SimpaoD, Fmnk, Esq. ^^^^^|
1863
p-
Simp!M>n,* Williiim. Esq. 04, Lincoln' a-inn-flelde, W.C. ^^^^H
1878
Siimon,* Alfre<l, Esq. 4, Fuirlie-place, Calcutiu. ^^^^H
1879
Singleton, Ju. Edw„ Esq. ;U», Lord-street, Bwrow-in-F\imea. ^^^^^
1858
Skelmei^idale, Right Hon. Edward, Lord. Lathom-park, OmiMkir/:, Latua- J
Mre. 1
277' ^1
L J
Royal Geographical Society.
xcix
Twrof
1875
1873
1866
1863
1871
1870
1861
1872
1865
1871
1880
1860
1875
1876
1871
1859
1877
1873
1878
1871
1873
1865
1861
1876
1879
1S6I
1857
1874
1868
1874
1841
1859
1859
1875
1875
1857
1869 :
1809 I
VOL.
C.
XLIX.
Skertdily, Joseph A^ Esq. 189, Qlenarm-rwtd, Cltq>ton-park, E.
Skilbeck, Jno. Hj., Esq. The IfoUiea, Snar^j^roo^, Leyionstone, E,
Skinner, John E. H., Esq. 3, Dr. Johnson't-buHdings, Temple, E.C.
Skrine, Henry D., Esq. Warleijh'-manor, near Bath,
Slade, Henrj, Ks<|., Fleet-Sutgeoa, R.rr. Army and A'avy Club, S.W.; and
Hoffsi Western Tacht Clab, Phjmotdh.
Sladen, Col. E. B. Care of Messrs. Orindlay and Co., 55, Parliament-street,
S.W.
Sladen, Rev. Edward Henry Mainwaring. 2%e Core, Bournemouth.
Sjmie, Sir John (Chief Justice, Bong-Kong), 45, Abingdon-villas, Kensington, W.
Smedley, Jowph V Esq., m,a, Oxford and Cambridge Club, 8. W. ; and 34,
St. Georf/e's-road, Kittmm.
3m«tbam, JaliD Oftbome, Esq. Kin^s Lynn, 2forfolk.
Smith, Alfred John, Esq. 94, Lamdoiene-riyid, South Lambeth, S.W.
ftinith,* Augustus Henry, Esq. The Midge, Bittenu;, Southampton.
Smith ,♦ B. Ldgh, Esq., M.A. Oxford and Cambridge Club, Pall-mall, S. W.
Smith, Bridgman, Esq. 27, Lloyd-square, W.C.
Smith, Mftjor C, B, Kuan, C.8.I. (H.M Consul, Miiscaf), 14, St. James's-square,
3. W. Care of Messrs, King and Co., Comhill, E.C.
Smith, Edward, Esq. Windham Club, S. W.
Smith, E. Louis T., Esq. RichnKmii-hovK, S<mnsh>a!,
Smith, F. Porter, Esq., m.b. Skepion Mallet, Somersetshire.
Smith,* George, Esq., ll.d. Serampnre-heiiK, Napier-road, Edinburgh.
Smith, Geo. Feredaj, Esq., M.A., J.P., &c. Grotehurst, Tutibridge Wells.
SmiUi, Griffiths, Esq. 7 E-rtiiileigh-slri'H, Tavistock-sqvare, W.C.
Smith, Guildford, Esq. 63, Charing-cross, S. W.
Smith, Jenroise, Esq. 47, Beigrate-stjntire^ S, W, »
Smith, J. L. Clifford, Esq. 9, Amifand-parh-roiid, Tuickenham,
Smith, John, Esq. Oravel-mount, Betford, Notts.
Smith,* Joseph Trayers, Esq. 25, Throgmorton-street, E.C.
Smith, Colonel Philip (Grenadier Guards). 6, James-street, BuckingJuim-gatc,
S.W.
Smith,* R. Barr, Esq. Torrens-park, Adelaide, S. Australia.
Smith,* Major Robert M., r.e. Teheran.
Smith, Rupert, Esq. Highfield, West Bromtcich.
Smith,* Thomas, Esq.
Smith,* W. Castle, Esq. 1, Oloucester-terrace, Eegent's-park, N. W.
Smith, Right Hon. William Henry, M.p. 2, Hyde-park-street, W.
Smith, Wm. Hy., Esq. Care of Messrs, Allan Bros, and Co., James-street,
Liverpool.
Smith, William Howarth Glynn, Esq. 46, Parliament-street, S.W.
SmJth-Busunquet,* Horace, Esq. 38, Queen's-gate, South Kensington, S, W.
Smyth, Colonel Edmund. Welwyn-grange, Herts,
Smyth,* Warington, Esq., F.K.S. 5, Imerness-terracc, W.
zZio \x
c
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^^^^|
Tftdrcif
KInHloa.
) B60
Srortlie,* Lieut .-General WilliBtn J., r.a., T.Vls. Atfienirum Clvb, S,W.
1872
Snoake, William, K,m{. 20, Northamptott-park, Cunonbury, N,
1876
Solbe, Kdvrard, Ewj. Broomfield, Fraeland-rwvi, Bromley, Kent,
1379
Solomon, C. E-lwarJ, Esq. Gire of Metirs. While and Holmetf 20, Mildinay-
chainbert, Diihopsgale-etrett, E,C.
1865
Solomons,* Hon. George. Jamaica.
1839
c.
Somers,* IJight Hon. Churl.>s, Earl. 4, Cheslerfkld-gofdma, W,; Eadnor-
caatie, Herefurdihire ; mid The Priory, Reigate, Surrey,
1862
.Somerset, Capt. LercEoii E. H., B.Ii. Care of ifcurs, Cftard, 3, Cl^ord't-inn, 1
FUet-itreet, E.C.
1876
Svm«rviile, Dr. Tbomax, ll.d. HawthomrhaU, WUmilcWy ChetMre.''
1878
Soulsbj, WiUiain jKineson, E»q. Uantion-AtMse, E.C.
I8«0
p-
Southwk, Jamn Ctrnegie, Earl of, K.T. JiinnairJ-oaitle, Breehin, X.B.
1H6U
Souilier,* Jnmea Lowther, Esq, II.M.S. ' Crocodile' Porttmmtth,
1872
p.
S|«lt{iu^. Mnjior M. <104th Re^ment). ^^H
ISttJ
S[>!il>ling, .Samuel, Ecq. South Darenth, Kmi. ^^H
187-J
Spdrrow, Wiltfum, E*]. AU>n>jht<m-haH, Skrevisimiy,
1873
Silence. Jno. Berger, E»q., r.0.8., tec. Erlington-houx, WhaHey-rnnjt, Man-
cketter.
1870
Sl«ncer, Admiral the Hon. J. W. S. 5, PoHman-atreet, W.
1874
Spencer, Waller, Ebij, GrovC'^nd-lodge, ffiijhriate-road, N.W. J
1878
Spice, Robert Paulson, Esq. 21, Parliament-street, S.W. ^^M
1867
Sp|c«r, Edwvixl, Esq. 19, A^ew Bridge-street, E.C, ^^H
1874
Spioer, Jas., Esq, The Harts, Woodford, Esmx, ^H
1874
Spicer, Cnpt, Richard W. 3, Chefhain-place, Beltprave-tquare, S. T1 .
IStiS
Spiokernell, Dr. Geo, E„ Piincipal of Eiutman's Royal Nav.at EsUblUhmt'Ot,
Eaatcm-parude, Southiea,
1830
SpiUlf, John Henry, tJiq. 9, Orange-nad, Canonb\iry, N.
J855
C.p.
.Spottwtt'oode,* WilliBm, Esq, P.R.8. 41, Grotvenor-place, S,W,
1859
r-
Spralt,* ReKr-Admirnl Thos. A. B., C.B., r.R.6. Clare-lodge, Kevill-park, Tm-
briJije Wells, Kent.
186G
[■■
Spruce, Kichanl, Esq., PH.D. Coney sthorpe, Malton, Vorkt/iire.
1879
Spuhler, Lieut. Frucoii Alphooie. Care of li. Martineau, Esq,, 37, Regent's'
park-road. N.W.
1871
Square, William, E«q., r.E.C.S. 22, Portland-square, Ptyvumtk. 1
1879
Stafford, Cromartie Lev«8oD-Gower, Marqiiii of, K.T. Stafford-houie, St, famnUp |
8. W. ; and Dunrobin-castle, Oohpie, Sutherlandihire. J
1853
Stanford, Edward, Esq. bb, Charing-crou, S.W. 1
1877
Stanford,* Edward, Esq., Jan. 17, Spring -gardens, S. W, ^^^|
J8tJ0
Staiihoj*,* Walter Spencer, Esq. Cannon-hall, Barmley, TorieMre. ^^|
1870
Stanley, Stail-ComnuuidiT Henry J., R.N. Admiralty Survey, MeOtOUrtu; tutn
Hydrographic-o^ice, Admiralty, S. W. I
1872
Stanley," Walmsley, Eaq., C.E. Albert-houu, Wett End, EaKer, Surrey. 1
JSilO
Stanton, Charles llolbrow, Eitq. 65, Bedcliffe-gardens, S.W. ^^M
^M
M
Royal Geographicgl Society.
ci
1875
1863
1871
1870
1868
1863
1869
1880
1879
1867
1868
1876
i»71
1870
1880
1879
1874
1880
1870
1876
1857
1866
1877
1869
1874
1880
1876
1877
1874
1869
1874
1876
1871
1866
1860
1874
Staoton,* Edv. Wm., Esq., M.A. 5, Veruhm^MOdingt, Oray't-iM, W.Ot
Steaton, Georgs, E»q. Coim-kia, Sftrewtbury : fmd Conaenatiw Gub,
8.W.
Staijc, Wm. Smvj, Eiq. Bydal^lodge, New-parkHrqtd, Brixtm-hUl.
Starling, Jonph, E«q. Btreaford-iodge, Dykt-road,, Brighton.
Stareley, Major-Goi. Sir Charles, k.c.b. United Service Club, S.W.
Stavelfjr,* Mijw. &iq. Old ^eningford-AaU, Sipon.
Stebbtng, Edward Charles, Esq. NaUonal Dt^t Office, 19, Old Jewry, B.C. ; and
The A^ent, Sunbury.
Stednutn, John, Esq. 4, Thomhill-equare, N.
Steel, Major-General James A. 73, CqmbriJge-terrace, Hyde-parh, W.
St«el, Major J. P., B.E. Simia. Care of the Oriental Bank,AO, Utreadneedle-
ttreet, E.C.
Sied, WiUiam Sttpag, Esq. 65, Lcmoatter-gate, Hyde-park, W.
Steele, James Dickson, Esq. H.M. Female Convict Priton, Woking, Stirrey,
Stein, Hon. Robert. Port Louis, Mauritius. Care of Meatrt. Stein, and Co,
22, BaeinghalMreet, E.C.
Stenning, Charles, Esq. 3, Upper HamiltoR'terrace, Jf.W.
Stephen, St. John, Esq. 16, Colmlle-terrace, Bayswater, W.
Stephens, Daniel Woolcott, Esq. Truby-house, Woodford, E.
Stephens, Harold, Esq. Finchley, N.W.
Stephens,* Henrj Charles, Esq. Avenue-house, Finchley, N. ; and Scientific CM,
Savile-rov, W.
Stephens,* Thonias Wall, Esq. 112, Queen's-gate, South Kensington, S.W.
Stephenson, Jno. Hunter, Esq. 3, Newman' s-court, Comhill, E.C.
Stephenson, Sir H. Macdonald, C.E. 72, Lancaster-gate, W. ; and East-cottage,
Worthing.
Stepney, A. K. Cowell, Esq. 6, St. Qeorge's-place, Knightshridge, S. W.
Stemdale, Robei-t A., Esq.
Steuart, Colonel T. K. (Bombay Army). 31, Linden-gardens, Notting-hill, W.
SUnrens, George Richard, Esq. Kurraljeen, Hong Kong.
Stevens, S. W., Elsq. Oioucester-house, Highgate.
Steroison, Capt. Geo. St. Claire. Waterden-Toad, Guildford.
Stevenson,* James, Esq. Broomfield, Largs, N. B.
Stewai-d, Major Edward H., R.E. War-office, Whitehall, S. W.
Stewart, Major C. E. (Bengal Staff Corps). 51, Redcliffe-square, S. W.
Stewart, Gilbert McLeod, Esq. Palace-chambers, St. Stephen's, S. W.
Stewart, H., Esq. 39, Bruton-street, W.
Stewart,* Major Herbert (3rd Dragoon Guards). Binficld-house, Bracknell.
Stewart, Rev. Dr. James. Looedale, Alice, South Africa. Care of Robert
Young, Esq., Offices of the Free Cliurch of Scotland, Edinburgh.
Stewart,* Major J. H. M. Shaw (Royal Madras Engineers).
Stewart, Robert, Esq. Port Elizabeth, Cape of Good Hope. Care of the
Standard Bank, 10, Clement' s-lane, Lon^>ard-streel, E.C.
2881
cii
Unition.
■
List of Fellows of the ^H^^^^^^f
1877
Stewirt,* Robert, E»q.
1873
Stewart, Admiral Sir Win. Houston, K.CA 50, W<meick-tqvarCt S.W., mi
Admiralty, S.W.
1870
StUwell, Henry. Esq., M.D. Moarcnjt, n<Hi»gtm, Uxbridge. ^^J
1879
Stitw«tl, James, Eiq. Victoria-park, Doner. ^^H
1875
Stirling, Arthtir V. G., Esq. Oxford and Cambridge CVufr, £. W. ^^M
1875
Stirling,* J. Carohn, E»q. 79J Oracechurck^ired, E.C, ^^M
1863
SU'rling, Sir Walter. Bart. 36, Portmm-tquare, W. ^^M
1878
Stock, CoUiufd J<>«*ph, Enq, 2\, Orovfroad, Eigkgate-foad, N.W. ^H
1880
Stock, Eugene, Etq. 12, Miiner- tquant, N. ; and^Church Missionartf Socielt/f
Salisbury-square, E.C.
1860
Stocker, John Palmer, Enq, 93, Oxford-terrace, Hyde-park, W.
1879
Stockley, Henry Curti*. Esq. 78, Gordon-road, Clapham, S. W.
1845
C.p.
Stokea,* Vice-Admiral John Lort. United Service Club, S. W. ; and Sootchvellf
Haverfordicest, Wales,
1868
Stonf, Dttviil H., E^m^., AldeiTnaa. 7, BwsklerAury, E.C. ^—
1874
P-
Stone, Octaviua C, Ecq. Stofuygate-grotx, Leicester. ^^H
1867
Story,* Edwin, E«q., u.A. 88, Oldjieid-road, Stoke Jfevitigton, N. ^H
1877
Stott,* Rer. S.%ninel Walter, B.A. York. ^^|
18(>8
Stovin, Rev. Cluirlea F. 59, Warvick-s<tMare, S. W. ^^|
1873
Stow, Geo. W., E«q. Qveen't Tovcn, S. Africa, ^^1
I86e
C. |..
Strachey, Slnjnr-GencTRl lUcbard. R.&., O.S.I., r.HJi. Stmeey-house, Clapham-
common, S. W. ; and India-office, S. W.
1880
Stratford, Martin, Esq.
1858
Stratfonl de RcdcliflV, Right Hon. Stratford Canning, Viscount, K.O., G.C.B.
Frant-court, Titnbnd/je Weils.
18C4
Stratoii, Rev. N, D, J, The Vicarage, Wakefield.
188(1
Sti-aube, Albert A. L., E«q. 63, Soutli-hill-park, Uamptlcad, N, W. ^_
1870
.Street,* E<lmiind, Esq. Mill field- lane, Highgaie-rist, N. ^^|
1875
Streeler, Alfred, Enq. Fir-vithi, Cheetnut-grote, New Maiden, Surrey. ^^t
1877
Streeter,* Edwin William, Etq. The Mount, Primrose-hill- road, X.W.; and
Catlit-oourt, St. Pcter'a, Kent.
1860
Strirkland. Sir Edward, K.C.B., Commiisary-General. Care of Sir Choi. S,
APGrigor, Bart., and Co., 25, Charles-street, St. James'e-square, S.W.
1868
Strode,* Alf. Rowland Chetbain, Ecq. Dunedin, Otago, New Zealand,
1875
Strong, Alfred, E«q. 7, Bwlington-ro>id, St. Stephen' a-square, Bayswater, W.
185;;
Strutt, George H., K»q„ r.n.A.S. Bridge-kill, Belper.
1876
Stuart, AU'iiiudw, Esq, fridge-place, I/urst-green, Sussex,
1873
Stuart, I.ieut.-Gen. Chnrlea. Hohurne, Christchurch, Hants,
1859
Stuart, Lieut.-Col. J. F. D. Crichton. 25, Witton-crtscent, Belgrave-tqtmt,
S.W.
1875
Stuart,* James Molin, Ecq. OaA«n«/iaw, Upper Norwood.
1876
Stuart,* Colonel S. William. Temps ford- hall, Sand^ : and 36, Bill-ttreet, W.
1880
StuLba,* Samnel, E»'\. 263, Hatnpsiead-road^ Mornington-Cretcmtf N, W.
,., .
Royal Geographical Society.
cm
T««-f
1873
1876
1872
1872
1878
1864
1857
1873
1865
1869
1862
1862
1873
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1869
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1875
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1862
1871
1864
1852
1875
1853
1859
1879
1857
1880
1861
1877
1879
Sturgeon, Wentworth, Esq. Cocoa Tree Club, Si. Janus's-ttreet, S.W.
Stumian, Rev. M. C. T. 64, Talfourd-road, Ca/nbencell, 8.E.
Start, Henry, Esq., jun. 1 19, ffolloMd-rwid, Kensington, W.
Styan, Arthur, Eiq., r.S.A. 28, Norfolk-cretcent, Hyde-park, W.
Suche, Df. George, f.L.b,
Sudeley, Lord. Toddington-park, Wmchoombe, QUmcesienhire.
Suliran, Kear-Admiral Sir IWtlioiuitiew J R.K., k.CB. Bournemouth.
SulliTan, Sir Edw., Bart. 37 Primxi-^n^e, 8. W.
SulliTan, Henr-Admiral Sir F. VV k.c.m., cilg.
Sum tntihaj-w,* William Eiiq„M,D, Holton, Burwash, Sussex,
Surridge, Ker. Ifftiry Arthur Dillon, M.A. Bowdon, Altrmcham.
»urtac«, C^lciDcl Charles Freville. Chakott-kouse, Long Dilton, Surrey.
Sutlierland, Geo., Esq. Aj-boretvm-squore, Berbi/.
^DtherLiuii!,* Gearv« Granville William, Duke of, K.6., F.R.8. Stafford-house,
Bi. Jamgf'f-piiltKi!', S. W.
Sutherland, Robert, Esq. Egham-rise, Surrej/,
Sutherland, Thonuu, Esq. Bute-house, 167, Crom'cell-road, S. W.
Sutton, John Manners, Esq. Kilham-hall, Newark, Notts.
Sutton, Martin J., Ksij. liathtrlan'fs, Whiltfi/, ittsadiwj.
Swain, Edward, Esq. Hiree Cauntiei Astfhtmt Stotfdd, Baldock.
Swaine, Capt. Leopold \ ictor, 1 4, Qveeiih-ijute, S. \V.
Swann, Iter. P. P., h.a. Braudsby, Easingieold, Yorkshire.
Swanzy, Francis, Esq. 122, Cftnnofi-stmt, £.C.
Swart, Hon. N. J. R. Care of J. J. Pratt, Esq., 79, Queen-street, Cheapside,
E.C.
Swinburne,* Comnir. Sir John, Bart., B.N. Capheaton, Newcastle-on- Tyne.
Syme, Heniy, Esq. 9, The Drive, Ifot^, Brighton.
Symonds, F., Esq., M.D. lie'iumiml-street, Oxford.
Synge,* Colonel Millington H., r.e. United Service Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
Salumper, Jas. Weeks, Esq., C.E., F.0.8. Aberystwyth.
Tagart, Courtenay, Esq. Btform Club, Pall-mall, S.W.
Tagart, Francis, Esq. 199, Queen's-gate, S.W.; and Old Sneed-park, near
Bristol.
Tait, Matthew, Esq. Heaton, Bradford, Yorkshire.
Tait,* Robert, Esq. 14, Queen Anne-street, W.
Tadcetniira, Kiugo, 16, l/onglonijrote, Sydt^ihata, S.E.
Talbot de Malahide, James Talbot, Lord, P.Et.s. 15, Chesterfield-street, May-
fair, W. ; Athenaeum Club; and ifittahide Cattle, Co. Dublin.
Taubman, George Goldie, Esq. Naval and Military Club, Piccadily, W.
Tayler, Frank, Esq. 156, Leadenhall-street, E.C.
2953
civ
Vmor
Uactloo.
List of Fellows of the ^^^k
1
18t>l
Taylor, Commander A. I>un<lii8, i.n. (Director of Marine Survey*), CaUutta. j
Core of Meun. U. S. King and Co., lib, Comhiil, E.C. 1
1873
Taylor, Charlea, Esq. Ealmg-coOtgt, Ealing, W. J
1875
Taylor, C. A.. Em). Ihtcnltam Market. Narfolk. ^J
1878
Taylor, Rev. Charles Parbutt. Setemtide, Maiaemare, Gloucester. ^^H
1876
Taylor, Fras. Clement, Esq. Sunwierleate, East Harptree, near Bristol. ^^^M
1869
Taylor, George N., tlsq. The Mount, Sunning-hill, Staines. ^^H
18d5
Taylor. H. L., E»q. Heform Club, 8.W.; and 23, PMtlimore-gardent^
Kensington, W.
1873
Taylor, J. Banks, E«q. 25, Austin Friars, E.G.
MS65
Taylor, Rct, Jas, HndsoD. 6, Pyrland-road, Xemngton-green, N,
1871
Taylor,* John, Esq. The Rocks, Bath; and Booth-hall, BlaoUey, Lanca-
shire.
1863
Taylor, John, E«q. 110, Fenchurch-street, E.C.
1870
Taylor* John Feuton, Fj<j. 20, Kev-ttrtet, Spring-gardenM, S.W.
1854
Taylor,* John Stopford, Esq., M.D. 2, Millbank-terrace, Anfield-road,
Liverpool.
18G3
Taylor, Lieut.-Gen. R. C. H., c.B. 16, Ealon-plaae, 5.1V.; and Carltm GtA,
S.W.
1878
Taylor, Thomas, Esq. Aston liwrnnt, Tilsirvrth, Oxfordshire,
1804
Taylor, William Hichanl, Esq., Deputy-Commiawry,
1875
T(?lfer, Commander Buchaa, lUi., rjB.A. 14, Sumner-place, Onalo»-aquare,
8,W.
1876
p.
Temfle, Lient Geo. T., B.N. The Kash, near Worcester.
1879
Temple, Li«ut. R. C, B.8.C. Ferozepore, Panjab; The Nash, near Worceittrf
and Natal and Military Club, Piccadilly.
18B5
C.p.
Temple, Sir Richard, EarL, G.CA.l., CLE, The Nashy near Wurcesifr ; ittd
AtAenaiini Club, S.W.
1857
Temple- W«k, Col. T.
I860
Tcmpteton, John, Esq. 24, Budge-ivw, E.C. ^^M
1857
p.
TennaDt, ProfcMor Jame*. 149, Strand, W.C. ^^H
1872
Terrero, Maximo, Esq. 88, Belsize-jxtrk-gardens, N.W, ^^^^H
1830
Thatcher,* Colonel ^^^^B
1874
Thomaa, Cha». Evan, Esq. 98, Queen'e-g<ae, S. W.
1872
Thomas, James Lewis, Esq., rji.A, War-office, Forte-Guards ; 26, Otoucester-
utreet, Warwick-square, S.W. ; and Thatched- House Club, St. Jamcs's-street,
S.W.
1865
Thomas, John Henwood, Esq. East India Dept., Custotn-house, E.C.
18(S4
Thomas, J. R.. F^., Staff Assist. Surg. Castle-hill, Fishguard, PembrokesJtirt.
1874
Thomas, R. Gerard de V„ Esq., M.A. Eyhome-house, Maidstone, ^—
riwmtu, Wesley Hy., Esq. The Mount, Steepfiill, Ventmr. ^H
Thomasson, E. S. Esq. " OliAe" Sieel-woris, Shefield. ^^1
1875
1878
I 1876
l horopson, Major H. (Bengal Staff Corps), Care of Messrs. OHndlay and Co., J
ba. Parliament-street, S.W. 1
3986 1
L J
Royal Geoyrapkical Society.
cv
1863
1863
1866
1848
1861
1865
1868
1876
1867
1847
18^
1877
1871
1877
1859
1872
1865
1861
1874
1877
1879
1874
1878
1872
1874
1839
1873
1876
1877
1879
1865
1880
1880
P-
P-
P-
P-
Thompson,* Henry Yatea, Esq. 26a, Bryantton-sqttarc, W.
Thompson, Thomat, Enq. (H.M. Vic«-Consul, Delagoa Bay).
ThomBon, Colonel George Cadogan. 21, Jlotland'park-gardeiu, Uxbridg«-road
Baytioater, W,
ThoDMoa, James, Esq. Hevsill, Haxckhwnt, Etnt.
Thomson, James Duncan, Esq. (Portuguese Consnl). St. Peter' a-ehctmben,
ComhOl, E.G.
Thomson, John, Esq. 12, Elgm-gardens, Fffra-road, Brieton, S.W.
Thomson,* J. TombuU, Esq. (SuiTeyor-General of New Zealand). WeUmgton,
New Zealand.
Thomson,* Ronald Ferguson, Esq.
Thomson, W. T., Esq.
Thome,* Augustus, Esq. Belgrate-manskms, Onavenor-gardena, S.W.
Thomtull, Capt Jas. Alfred. Bradbourtu-mllas, Buahey-hill, Camberwell.
Thornton, Edward, Esq., C.B. Bank-house, Windsor.
Thornton, Rev. Thomas Cooke, M.A., m.R.i.a. Brock-haU, near We«don,
Nort/iamptonsfiire.
Thorold, Alexander W. T. Grant, Enq. 3, Oroscenor-gardens, S. W.
Thorpe, Geo., Esq. 20, Eastcheap, E.C.
Thorpe, Wm. Geo., Esq., F.o.S. Gloitcester-house, LarkhaH-rise, S.W.; and
Itprton'a^uae, Ipplepen, Newton Abbot, Devon.
Thring, Sir Henry, E.C.B. 2, New-street, Spring-gardens, 3. W.
Thnillier, Lieut.-Gen. Sir H. L., c.S.i., F.B.8. 32, Cambridge-terrace, Hyde-
park, W.
Thuillier, Major Henry R., k.e. 8, Montagu-terrace, Friai'a-ttile-road, Rich-
mond, S.W.
Thurbum,* C. A., Esq. 16, Kensingtonrpark-gardens, Notting-hUl, W.
Thurlow, The Right Hon. Lord. Bunphail, Forres, N. B.
Thwaites, Capt. Joseph. 5, Washington-terrace, Southampton.
Tietkins, W. H., Esq. Kiwuxird-castle, Brechin, Forfarshire.
Tillbrook, Rev. W. John. Comberton, near Cambridge.
Tighe, Col. Fred. 2%e Priory, Christchurch, Hants.
Tinunins, Samuel, Esq., J.P., F.S.A., &c. Elvetham-lodge, Birmingham.
Tinline, George, Esq. 17, Princ^s-sguare, Bayswater, W.
Tinntf,* J. Ernest, Esq. Briarley, Aijburth, near Liverpool.
Tinn^* John A., Esq. Briarley, Aigburth, near Liverpool.
Tipping, George B.,Esq. Coombe-lodge, Kingston-hill, Surrey,
Tizard, Staff-Commander T. H., R.N, ffydrographic-office, Admiralty, S, W,
Todd, Arthur, Esq. 125, Triton VUle-road, Sandymount, Dvblin.
Todd, George, Esq. Auckland-lodge, Blackheath, S.E.
Todd, Rer. John W., d.d. Tudor-hall, Foreit-hUl, Sydenham, S.E.
Tokoogawa,* lyesato. 16, Longton-grove, Sydenham, S.E.
Toogood, Octavius, Esq. 73, Comuall-gardens, South Kensington, S.W. ; and
Conservative Club, St. James's-street, S. W.
3022
CVl
List of Fellows of the ^^^^^^H
ToAr»if
XUoUoa.
1
1877
Tomlin, John Uewitt, Esq,. Weiley-terrace, DrainJeij, Leeds. 1
1853
Tomline, George, £«q. 1 , Carlton-kousc-terrace, S. Tl'. 1
1873
Tomliiuon, Jolin, K»q, Malpas, Cfieshire. ^^f
1875
Tomlinson, Walter, Esq.. D.A. 3, Richinoiui'terracs, Whitehall, S. W. ^H
1877
TomJiMon,' \V. E. M., Esq., M^. 3, Eiahmond-terraoe, Whitehall, S.W.; and
Athenaeum Clvb, S.W.
1886
Torrens. Sir Robert Richard, K.C.li.Q. 12, Chater-place, W.; and Wtf Coti,
Hdm, Mor A^bvrlim, S<mth Dewm.
1877
1 Torry,* Lieut. Harold J. B. Banover-square Club, W.
1878
TiMswIll, CRpt. Robert George Davi*. Ginterbttry, Neto Zeatatul. Care of
Vicomta />i(/wa<, 10, St. Mary Axe, E.G.
1875
TowDfhend, Capt F. French (ixA Life Gnitrds). Arthw't Clvb, St. Jameft'
street, 3, W. ^j
1859
Townshend, Cnpt. John, a,N. 2, Femside'VtVat, New WandnrortA. ^^M
1840
Tnwry,* George Edward. Eiiq. ^^H
1873
Towse, John Wrcncli, Esq. Fishmongers' -hall, London-bridffe, F.C ^^H
1858
Towson, J. 'rhoni(L<>, E>q. 47. Upper J'ariiaiiumt-street, Lirtrpool. ^^^k
1864
P-
Tojnbee,* Capt. Uoiry. 1*2, Upper Westlourne-UiTace, IV. ^^|
1863
Towr,* Iter. U. F., Mm. ExeUr College, Oxford. ^^M
1893
Travers,* Arch., Esq. 28a, Adkiison-roaJ, KensiiujtoH, W, ^^1
1876
Trnvers, Lieut. -Gen. Jametf, v.c. Care of Jkletsra. King and Co., 65, Corahill,
E.C.
1859
Tremlett, R«v. Francis W., m.a., d.c.l, ph.d. Belsiie-park, Eampstead,
N.W.
1879
Tremlett, Rear-Adroirnl FmnciscoS. Belle Vae, Tunhrldge Wells.
1865
Tneach,* Major the Hon, Le Peer, U.E. 3, Jfyds'parh-yarderu, W.; md
Ordaanae Sturey-oftce, Pia^ioo, S. W.
1863
Tiestrail. Iter. Frederick. St. Johk't-'road, Neteport, Isle of Wi>jht.
1»73
Tt«uenf«ld, Richard von F., Eaq. 12, Queen Annt^s-gate, Westminstei;
S.W.
1862
Trerelyan, Sir Charle* Edward, Bart. K.C.B. 8, Grosveaor-cresceHt, S. W.
1864
Trimmer, EdniuDd, Esq. 75, Camhridge-ierrace, Hyde-park, W. ^^B
1875
Triiider, Uj. Wtn., Esq. 135, ffarley-street, W. ^H
18tt7
Trilton, Joseph Herb«?rl, Esq. 54, Lombard-street, E.C. ^^1
1871
Trivett, Captaiu JuJm Fredk., R.N.R. The Homestead, Hackney-common^ J
1878
Trollop«, Anthcny, K«q. .S9, Montagve-tqwtre, W.C. ^^H
1876
Trotter,* CoutU, Eiq. Athenamm C7w6, Pall-rmll, S. W.
1809
tf ■ P-
Trotter, Major Henry, ii.e. Care of Messrs. Bichaidson and Co., 13, Pall-mallf
S.W.
1872
Trotter, CaptAin J. Moubray. Cora of Messrs, Huldanes and Brookman, 17,
Charlotte^treet, KditAnrgh.
1874
Trotter," William. Esq. U, Hertford-street, Mayfair, W.
1870
Trutch, J. W., Esq., c.M.G. Vktona, British Columbia. Can of Sank of 1
Uritish Coiumbia, 28, ComhUl, E.G. 1
B.
J
Royal Geographical Society.
cvn
Tnron, Obtain George, S.K., c.b. 5, Eaton-place, S. W. ; and Army and Naey
Cbib,8.W.
Tackett, Fnmds Fox, Esq. Frenchay, near Bristol,
Tuckett, Philip D., E«q. 8otitAu>ood4awn, Highgate, N.
Tudor, Edward Owen, Esq., r3.A. 1, Portugal-street, Orosoenor-square, W.
Tudor, Henry, Esq. 12, Portland^lace, W.
Tufnell, Wm, Esq. «, Eaton-aqvare, S.W.; and Satfield-place, Hatfield-
Peveral,
Tumbnll, George, Esq.,c.E., f.r.a.s. RoiehiU, Abbots Langley, Herts.
Tumbnll,* Walter, Esiq. MowU Henley, Sydenham-hill, S.E.
Turner, Lieat.-General Henrj Blois (Bomb. Eng.). 131, Harley-street, W.
Turner, H. G., Esq. (Madras Civil Service). 14, St. Jame^s-sqvare, S. W.
Turner, Jos. Edward, Esq. SO, King-street, Cheapside, E.C.
Turner, Thomas, E»i. 36, Harley-street, W.
Turtou, Lieut. W. H., bl.e. Care of Mrs. Hughes, Devonia, Lordship-lane, S.E.
Tweedie, Major Michael, B.A. 101, Belgrave-road, S, W.; and Army and Xavy
CUvb, S.W.
Tweeddale, The Most Hon. The Marquis of. 25, St. Jameis-place, S. W.
Twentyman,* A. C, Esq. Castlecroft, near WolverAatigpton.
Twentyman, William H., Esq. Eatenstcorth, St. John's-wood-park, N. W.
Twiss, Sir Travers, D.C.L., F.R.8. 3, Paper-buildings, Temple, E.C.
Twite, Charles, Esq. Castle-house, St. Agnes, Scorrier, CorweaU.
Twyfbrd, Captain A. W., 21st Hussars. Governor, York Castle.
Tyer, Edward, Esq., C.E., f.r.a J. 4, Old-street, OosweU-road, E.C.
Tyler,* George, Esq. 24, HoUoaay-place, HMnoay-road, N.
Tyler, W, James, Esq. 106, Cannon-street, E.C.
1868
1877
1844
1872
1874
1878
Ullyett, Henry, Esq., B.8C. Dover-road, Folkestone.
(Jnderiiil], Edward Bean, Esq., LL.D. Derwent-lodge, Thurlow-road, Hamp'
stead, N.W.
Unwin, Howard, Esq., c.e. Oxford-court, 109a, Cannon-street, E.C.
Vacher,* R. P^ Esq. Oak-hill, Surbiton.
Vacher,* Geoi^e, Esq. Oak-hill, Swbiton.
Vallentin,* James R., Esq. 55, Cowoross, E.C.
Valentine, William J., Esq.
Van Campen, Samuel Richai-d, Esq. 137, East 2lst Street, Gramercy-park, New
Fork, D.8.
3086
cviii
1
List of Fellows of the ^^^^H
KlMtkn.
1862
Vwder By],* Y. G., E.-^.
1876
Vanrenm, Lient.-Col. Adrian ]>ney» (Bengal SUflT Corps). 24, Zanx/oicM-road,
Notting-hiU. W.
1875
Vuis-Agnew, Robert, Esq. Carlton Club, S.W.; and Barnbamak, WigtM^
ihire, N. B.
1879
Viaghan, Right ReT. Herbert (Bi«hop of Salford). Bithop'i-htme, Salford.
1856
Vaughan,* James, Esq., F.R.O.S. Buitth, Breoonahire.
1880
Vaute, Richiird, Vm[. Durban, Natal. Care of Matrs. Wkiki and Eolmti, 20,
MUdmay-chnmhcrs, BitKnpsgate-slrwt, E.C,
1852
Varasour,* Sir Henry M., Bart. 8, Upper Grosvenor -street, W,
1855
Vavaaaeur, Janjes, E«q. EnockhoU, near Setenoakt, Kent.
1880
Venables, Gilbert, Esq., B.A, 1, Adain-sireet, Adelphi, W.C.
1871
Vereker, Lieut-Col. the Hon. Charles Sm/th. Junhr United Sereioe CM,
S.W.
1868
P-
Vereker,* The Hon. H. P. ll.d. (H.M. ComuI at Charante). 1, Portman-
square, W.
1862
Vemer, Kdword WingfieW, Ejsq,, T^^e Aike, Bray, Ireland.
1862
Veniey,* Conimr. Edmotid H., R.N. Ehuuiva, Bat\gor, North Wales.
1837
C.
Vcmey,* Sir Harry C, Bart., UJf., r.B.A.S, Travellers* Club, S.W. ; and
Ckiydon-houae, BueiM.
1852
Verulam, Right Hon. James Walter, Earl of, Gorluunburtf, near St, Albanii
BarrifkiU. Surrey ; and Messimj'fuill, Essex.
1879
Vickens, Jiunes Muscliamp, lisq. Mitcham-groee, MitcJUon.
1874
Vincent,* Cnpt, Chaa (kte I.N.). 3, Shrewsbvry-road, WeslhovrM-park, W.
1857
Vincwit, John, Esq. 2, Uttier-terrace, Regent' t-parh, N.W.
ISM
Vincent,* M. C, Esq., Professor of Economic Geology luid Metallurgy; ItUiptCtor
of Mines, &c. Cincinnati, U. S. ; and 127, Strand, W.C.
1871
Vine, Stafr-Comra. Wui. W., R.N. Care of Messrs. Hallett and Co., St. Marlin't-
place, W.
1858
Vine*, William Reynold*, E«q., F.11.AJ. Care of Sydnej/ H. Vmes^ Esq.,
Ckriifs College, Cambridge.
1874
Viney, Rev. Josiah, Femuood, Highgate, N.
1672
Virion, Hon. H. Crespigny, c.B. Foreign-ogioe, 8,W.
1863
Vivian, M^yor Qainto*. 17, Cheiham-sireet, Belgrave-sqvart, S.W.
1876
Vivian, C*pt Ralph. 24, Orosrenor^street, W.
1876
Vyse, GrifHu William, Esq. Allison-groce, Dvlm<A, SJ!.
18S3
Wade, R, B., E«q. 13, Seijtnour- street, Portman-sqiiare, W.
1863
Wade, Sir Thos. K., K.C.b., H.B.M. Minister Plenipolentiarj-, Knroy Extn^
ordinary, and Superintendent of Trade. Peking, China. Oarw of R. B.
Wade, Esq., 13, Stj/mour-street, Portman-sqwue, W,
Ji'4 1
Royal Geographical Society. cix
Wadhom,* Edward, Esq., j.p. MUwood Dallm, Lcmauhire.
Wagner,* Henry, Esq., v.a. 13, Salf-Moon^reet, PicoadUly, W.
Wagstaff,* William Bacster, Baron, h.d., h.a.
Wainwright, Chas. Jas., Esq. £lmhur8t. East End, FinchUy, N.; and 251,
HighHcibom, W.C.
Wainwright, Lieut. Laurence A. Bervnok-Basset'Victtraga, Swmdon, Wilts.
Waite,* Ber. John.
Waklej, Thoa. Finsbury Septimus, Esq., C.K. OoUege-terraoe, Guernsey.
Walbuni, Edmund, Esq., u.a,. Principal of Groerenor College. 366, Brixton'
road, 8.W.
Walkem, Hon. Geo. Anthonj. Victoria, British ColuaMa.
Walker,* Albeit, Esq. AucUand Club, New Zealand.
Walker, Capt Arthur Campbell (Royal Bodj Guard). Army and Navy Club,
FaU-^nall, 8.W.
Walker, Uajor-General C. P. Beaachamp, c.B. 97, OniJow^uare, S.W.;
md United Service Club, 8.W.
Walker, Edward Henry, Enq. (H.M. Consul at Conmnd), Care of Messrs.
Drummond, Charing-cross.
Walker, Colonel Forestier W. E., C.B. The Manor-house, Bushey, Kent ; and
Guardif Gub, Pall-mall, S.W.
Walker,* Frederick John, Esq. 27ie Priory, Bathwick, Bath.
Walker, Capt. J. Campbell (Madras Staff Corps). Care of Messrs, Orindlay
and Co., 55, Parliament-street, 8. W.
Walker,* Major^General James T., C.B., r.B.8., Royal Engineers (Supt. Gt. Trig.
Surrey of India). I>ehra Boon, India. Care of Messrs. H. 8. King and Co.,
65, Comhill, B.C.
Walker, John, Esq. 351, Brixton-road. 8. W.
yfsHlur,* John, Esq.
Walker,* Lient.-Colonel John (H.M.'s 66th Foot). Broom-hill, Colchester.
Walker,* Capt. J. B. Care of Messrs. Elder, Dempster, and Co., 48, Castle-
street, Liverpool; and Old Calabar, near Bonny, West Africa.
Walker, R. B. N., Esq. Wanderers^ Club, PalWmall, 8.W.
Walker, Robert, Esq. 39, LouAard-street, E.C.
Walker, Rer. William. 8chool-house, Beading.
Walker, William, Esq., F.8.A. 48, BUldrop-road, TitfneU-park, N.
Walker, W. Fi-edk., Esq. Moore-park^llas, Walham-green, 8.W.
Walkinshaw, William, Esq. Hartley-grange, Winchfield, Hants.
Wallace,* Alfred Russel, Esq. Waldron-edge, Duj^s-MU, Croydon.
Wallace, Rev. Charles Hill, M.A. 3, Harley-place, Clifton, Bristol.
Waller, Gerald, Esq. Hoe-street, Waltluimstow, Essex.
Waller, Rer. Horace. Ihe Bectory, Tioyvoell-by-Thrapston, Northampton-
shire.
Wallich, George C.,Esq., H.D. 8\ointon, 3, Christchurch-road, Eoupell-park,
Brixton, 8. W.
Wallroth,* Chas. Henry, Esq. Woodelyffe, Chislehurst.
3147
ex
^^^^^^^^^List^^Sow^ph^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yoar or
Elwiroo.
M
1874
WalU, WJUiain, Esq. 2, Belhaven-ttrrace, Glasgote.
1876
Wnlpole, Limt. Kol»ert Homcf, it.N. Bainthorpe, near Noneieh ; and 4, Dean'
street, Park-hne, W.
1863
1
Walpole, IlL Hon. Si«m«r, si.r., F.n.s. 109, Eaton-aqyuire, S.W.
1878
Walrofld, Sir .1. W., Bajt. 54, Grosoenorstreet, W.
1879
Walter, Capt. Fred. Edw., R.H.A. St, George's Banach, Bermuda.
185S
Walter, Henry Fnier, Esq. Papple\eick-hiiil, near Nottingham,
i87a
Waltham,* Edward, Esq. Watcom(hhoase, St. Annt^s-placsj Streatham-hitl, |
S. W. J
1863
Walton, J. W., Eiiq. 41, Great Marlborough-street, W. ^^M
Walton, R. G., Esq., C.E. Butnbay. ^IH
1864
1877
Ward, Chnrlei, Esq. Neiecastle, Natal, South Africa, Care of Dr. JL Bum, 1
Bletxhcim-lodge, Turnham-green, W. J
1876
Ward,* Christopher, Esq, Saville-place, Halifax,
1853
Ward,* George, Esq.
1S74
Ward, John, Esq. Lenox-vak, Belfast. Care of J. A. Eoae, Esq., 11,
&ilisbu>-!/-street. Strand, W.C.
1878
1868
ji. Ward, Cajitain the Hon, Wm. John, R.H., A.D.C. 44, Charimj-croas, S. W'.
1875
Waiilcn, Edmund M., Esq. Wyberlije, Bturgesa-hUl, Sussex,
l«62
Waidliiw, .liihn, I"^. 44, Prince' s-gatdens, Hyde-park, S. W.
, 187S
Warner, Rev. Geo. Townscnd. Nenton-colleje, S. Devon.
1877
Wni-ner,* J. H. B., Esq. Quorn-Iiall, Lottghboroujh ; and (ksuervotm Club,
s. vr.
1876
Warrand, Colonel W. E.. r.e. The BuglU, Inverness,
1872
Warre, Rev. Edmond, M.A. Eton College,
1869
Want-, IJent.-Genei-al H. J„ c.n.
1874
P-
Warren, [jVut.-Col, Clutrles, r,e., c,».o. Brompton4'it racks, Chut/uim.
186fi
Warren, Charles, Esq. 17, Hanover-street, Peckiuim, S,E,
1862
1 Warren, Miij«r Kichaj-d Pdhanx. Wurtiruj-houaef Basittgstolie.
1876
Wnterfield,* 0. C., Esq. Temple-grove, East Sheen.
18&7
1 Wnterhousc, George Marsden, E«q. Cure of Messis. iIonv>nn and Co,, 4, Fern"
church-street, B.C.
1874
Waterbouae,* Sfajor Jaa., Bengal SUfT Corps (Anistant Surrejror-Genvnd of
India). Sunxyor-QeMraPt-office, CalcrUta. Care of Messrs. TriUma- and
Co.. 59, Ludgate-hill, E.G.; and 40, ffamiUon-terrace, KW.
1875
Watei?, J. H. Ernest, Esq.
1874
Waters. T. J., Esq.
1874
Wntherston, Rer. Jno. Dnndns. V'e Lecturer's House, Mon$nouth.
18«3
Watney, John, Esq. 4, Ironmonger- lane, E.G.
1B7S
P-
Watson, Capt. Chns. Moore, R.E. 25, Fitttcilliam^laoe, Dublin.
1859
Wataon, Jninea. Esq. 24, Endsleigh-street, W.C.
1660
Watson, James, Esq. Langleg^house, Langley, Bucks.
1874
1 WatMii, Sir Jnines. 9, Woodside-terraot, Ohugow. 1
]<8} 1
\
Royal Geographical Society,
CXI
C.
Wataon, James L., Esq. KUlinghall, Sipiey^ Yorkshire.
Wataon, Joo. Gibson, Esq. 20, Clanricarde^ardens, Hyde-park, W.
Watson, John Harrison, Esq. 28, Queenaborough'terrace, Kensingtonrgardem, 'W,
Watson, Lieut. Joseph, R.H.B. 22, BancrofUroad, Mile-endrroad, E.
Watson, Kobert, Esq. Fcdcott-house, Nortk-hiU, Highgatt, N.
Watson, Robert Spoice, Esq. Most Croft, Qateshead-on-Tyne,
Watson, Tbos., Esq. (Portuguese Vice-consul, Cape To\Bn). Care of J. R.
Thomaon and Co., St. Peter' s-chambers, E.C.
Watson,* William, Esq., F.lf.s. Care of Capt. Inglis, 8, Water-street^ Liverpool.
Watson, Wm. Livingstone, Esq. Oriental Club, Hanover-square, W,
' Watt, Robert, Esq., C.E. AsMeij'avenue. Belfast.
I Watts, Rev. Arthur. Training-college, Durham.
; Watts, H. Cecil, Esq. Lindfield-house, Lindfield, Surrey.
I Watts, John, Esq. Eastington-house, Stonehouse, GloucestershUe.
I Waugh, Fras. Gledstanes, Esq., M.A. Oxford and Cambridge Club, Fall-mall,
I S.W.
j Wavell, Lieut-Col. A. H. 102, Piccadilly, W.
. Waveney, Lord, 7.R.8., &c. 7, Audky-square, W. ; and Flixton^tt, ffarieston,
I Webb, Geo. P., Ek}. Junior Athenaum Club, PiccadOly, W.
Webb, Captain H. G. Norton-barracks, Worcester; and Army and Navy Clvb,
8.W.
Webb, J. C, Esq., M.D. 42, Lcmer Belgrave-street, 8. W.
Webb, Locock, Esq., Q.C. 1, Hanover-terrace, Notting-hUl, W.
Webb,* Capt. Sydney. Riversdale, Twickenham.
Webb,* William Frederick, Esq. Newsiead Abbey, Notts ; and Army and Navy
Club. Pall-mall, S.W.
Webster, Alphonsas, Esq. 44, Mechlenburgh-sqiMre, W.C.
Webster. George, Esq.
Webster, James Hume, Esq. 14, Chapel-street, Park-lane, W,
Webster, Robert G., Esq. Library-chambers, Garden-court, Temple, E.C.
Wedd, George, Esq. .51, Queen' s-gardens, Hyde-park, S.W.
Weedow, Joseph, Esq. Damlioll Grammar-school, Winsford, Ches/iire.
Weguelin, Thomas Matthias, Esq., M.P. 57^, Old Broad-street, E.C.
I Wdse, Jno., Esq. 103, St. George' s-road, Pimlico, S. W.
I Weiss, Foveaux, Esq. 33, Chester-terrace, Regent' s-park, N. W.
I Weiss, Hubert Foreauz, Esq. 33, Chester-terrace, Regent' s-park, N. W.
. Welby, Reginald Earle, Esq. 95, Jennyn-street, S. W.
VVeller, Edward, Esq. 34, Red-lion-square, W.C.
Welling*, Henry, Esq.
Wellington,* Arthur Richard, Duke of, Major-General, K.O., D.C.L. Apsley-
house, W. ; and Strathjieldsuyc, Hampshire.
Wells,* Arthur, Esq. Nottingham.
Wells, Sir Mordaunt, late Chief Puisne Judge, Bengal. 4, Victoria-sirjct,
S.W.
cxii
Xtmrai
l:>mai<m.
■
Lia of Fellows oftlie ^^^^^^^^^^H
1
1870
West, linymond, Esq. (Bomb, Civ, Sei-vice). 1
1373
Wwt, Williftra Nowell. Esq. ;(0, Montvju-itreet. RvmelUqwire. W.C, J
1872
Westeodju-p, Cliaj le* U., Eiq. 1 9. Stantei)-crescent, Ketuingion, W, ri^H
1873
Western, W. T., Esq. 11, MotUatfue-viUas, iCichinond. ^^H
1875
Weslgarth, Win., E«q. 10, Bolton^janleiu, South Kenttngton, S.W. ^H
l»<i3
Wcatlakc,* John, Ksq. lU, Oxford-sqiMre, W. ^^^|
IB6»
Westniiu-iitt, At'Lhur, Ecq. AthtnoBom Club, S.W. ^^|
1874
Wfttttnacott, E. Vctev, Esq. Haddmham^ Ely. ^^|
1852
WestoD, Alet. Auderdoii, Esq., K.A. 74, Queen't^att, S.W, ^^H
1863
W«stwood, John, Esq. ^^^H
1830
Weylaiid,* John, E»q., r.R.8. WoodfUing-hall, Norfolk, ^^H
1878
Whalley, Daiiiel, Esq. 62, nreadneedU-strMt, B.C. ^^^
1860
c.
VVhimidiffe, Right Hon. The Ei\rl of. 15, C»rion-s<r«f, W.
184il
Wharton, Kec. J. C. Junior Atlktnaeum Club, FiceadUhj, W.
1874
Wharton, Kobeit, E*]. Hurley, Great iiarlow, Bucks.
1876
Whartott,* CDtmni. Win. Jm. Ll..yd, u.N. If. M.S. ' faun.'
1838
Wlieatlej-, G. W., Esq. 156, Ltadenliall-street, E.C.
1879
Wheeler,* ICdwaid, Esq. Care of A. "Wheeler, Esq., Worcester-park'-houie, Swveif,
1880
Wheeler, Stephen, Esq. AUatmhad, Care of Mettra. Allen, Brother* and Co.,
12, Albion-place, london-uiall, E.C
1869
Whichelow, Ker. James .Shenrcr. 13, Gorecretccnt, Victori(hpark, If.
1853
Whinfield,* Edward Wrey, E«q., B.a. Secem-gramje, Woroetter.
1887
WhiUker, Thomas Stejitien, Esq. Evei-thorpe-haU, East VorfuMn; attd Cb»<
scrmtict Ctitb, S. YV.
1868
Vn>itby, Ret. Tliomos, M.A., Sec. Christ Chwvh-vicaro'je, Plymouth.
1857
Whit*. Arthur D., Esq., M.D. 56, Chancer^i-lane, W.C.
1879
White, .Augustus, Esq. " Whitetille" Fortis-green, Finchlet/, N.
IS73
White. Krancis W., Esq. Hankow, Chinn. Care of If. C. Batchelor, Esq.,
110, Cannm-strett, E.C.
1878
White, Uer. G. Cosby. Newland, near Halvem.
1875
White. Geo. V„ Esq. 1, Porchester.'jale, llijde-park, W,
1857
White, Henry. Esq., F.a.A., J. P. 96, Queen' »-gate, Hyde-park, S.W. ; and
The Lodije, nUiiagdon-heath, near Uxbridge,
1862
White, Jas. Thoa., Esq. 4, Clarmdon-phce, Hijde-p'trk, S.W.
1874
White, Owen, W„ Esq. Pie>sfielJ, South Streatham,
1879
White, Kdbert, Esq. " WhitevUle" Forlie-green, FincIUey, If. ; and JftUmgr-
diamfiers, 8J, Bishopsgate-itreei, E.C.
1869
White, r;obert Owen. Esq, The Priory, Lexrialum, S.E.
1806
While, W. A., E»q.,c.B., H.M. Minister, Bucharest. Care of G. C. Bowtmi^
Esq., Librarian's Dept., Foreign-office, S. W.
1803
White,* Wm. 0„ Esq. 10, Limc-st., E.C. ; and Bamsfield, near Dartfard, Knit.
1873
Whit4!heiid,* Chas., Esq., f.s.a. Banninj-Iiouae, Maidstone.
1874
Whitehead. Colonel P. George. 14. Eetn Cavendish-street, W,
1873
Whitfori, John, Esq. 21, Alfved-Hred, Liverpool.
m9
u J
JRoyal GeographicaJ Society.
cxm
r«tfar
1867
1878
Whitmee, Rev. S. J. 11 , Leintter'sqware, Ratkmiatas, J>Mi%,
Whittingham, W. B., Esq. North View, The Driw, Walthamstow; emd
91, Qracechvrch-atreet, E.C.
Wbymper, Edward, Esq. Town-houae, ffaslemere.
Whyte, Jas., Esq.
Whjtt, Ebenoter, Esq. The Orote, Higigate, N.
Whjtt, P. Falconer, Esq. The Grope, Higbgate, IT.
Wickenden,* Geo. Thos., Esq., f.z.8. 9, ComKoll-residenoes, York-gate, N.W. ;
and Hanover-equare Club, W.
Wiggins,* Joseph, Esq. 4, The Elme, Sunderland.
Wild, Dr. John James. 21, ffayter-road, Brixton, S. W.
Wilder, Frederick, Esq. Furley-haU, Sending.
Wilkins, J. E., Esq. 4, Paper-buildings, Inner Temple, E.C.
Wilkinson,* Major A. Eaatfield, B.A.. Oiidh Commission, India ; 7, Cavendis/i'
place, Brighton; and Army and Navy Club, 8. W.
Wilkinson, Edw., Esq. 10 Neva-square, Lincoln' a-iun, W.C.
Wilkinson, Dr. G. 4, 8t. John'a-vood-vilUta, St. John's-*Dood, N. W.
Wilkinson, Capt. J. Fenwick. 2, Wilton^vUlas, Codrington-road, Bamsgate,
Wilkinson, J. J., Esq. 3, Victoria- street, Westminster, 8. W,
Wilkinson, John Sheldon, Esq. 4, St. James' s-place, 8. W.
Wilkinson, Joseph, Esq. York.
Wilkinson, Col. Joaiah. Ilighgate, N.
Wilks, Ezra Tompkins, Esq. Mayfield-road, Dalston ; and 6, Coal-exchange, E.C.
Willans,* John Anderson, Esq. 6, Vincent-square, Westminster, 8. W,
Willana, William Henrj, Esq. 23, Holland-park, W.
Willcock, J. W., Esq., q.C, Woodside-house, New-haw, Weybridge, Surrey.
Williams, Chailes, lisq. 22, Bedford-street, Covent-garden, W.C.
Williams, Conyngbam 0., Esq. New Leeds-college, Leeds.
Williams, David, Esq. Pateleij-bridge, near Leeds, Yorkshire.
Williams, Frederick G. A., Esq. Chapel-stairs, Lincoln' s-iim, W.C.
Williams, Henry Jones, Esq. 12, Hereford-gardens, Park-lane, W.; and 82,
King William-street, E.C.
Williams, Henry R., Esq. 183, Camden-road, N.W.
Williams, John, Esq.
Williams, John Robert, Esq. Junior Carlton Clvb ; and Fir-grove, Bront-
borough, Cheshire.
Williams,* Michael, Esq. Tregullow, Scorrier, Comwail.
Williams,* Montague, Esq. Woolkmd, Blandford, Dorset.
Williams, Sparks H., Esq., F.s.^ 8, Holland-road, Kensington, W.
Williams, Rev. Wjitkin Herbert. Vicar of Bodelwgddan, nr. St. Asaph, N. Wales.
Williams, Major-General Sir Wm. F., Bart., O.C.B., d.C.L. Army and Navy
Club, 8. W.
Williams, W. Rhys, Esq., M.D. Boyal Bethlehem Hospital, S.E.
Willis, Chas. E., Esq. 14, John-street, Mayfai>; W.
3J97
cxiv
Ttwot
EhwtiBB.
■
List of Fellows of ihe ^^^^^^^^^H
1873
Willis,' Mnjor-Gencral G. H. S., c.n. United Stnice Clvb, PM-mall, S. W.
1859
Witloughby, Henry W., Esq. 32. Montoffu^-iquare, W.
1870
Wilis, Peler Turner. 2, mttle Lore-J.me, Wood-ttreet, E.G.
1867
Wills, William Henry, Eiq,, m.p„ j.p, FroijnaUriie, Bampttead, KW.; and
Hawthomdm, Clifton Do\en, Bristol,
1876
VVIlmot, AIm. E»q., j.p. Port Eldnhcth, Aljoa Bay, S. A. Care of Ji. White,
Eaij,, Mildntay-dumlxira, 82, Biahopagate-street-within, E.C,
1868
WIIkoo, Alexiuider, Eeq. Qatewick-hovac, Deckenhcan,
1875
Wilson,* Capt. Chai. P. Marine Deparltnent, Board of Trade, St. Katharhu'i
Dock-hmae, Toirer-hill, E.
1880
Wilson, Kev. Chnrlcs Thomns. Pavmfiam, Bedford,
1809
C. 1..
Wilson, Lieut-Col. Charles William, C.n., RE. 5, Lanadowne-terrace, EodwtH,
Weymouth.
1675
Wilson, £dw. D, J., Esq., U.A., in:. Airlie-huuse, CamherwM-grott, S.E,
1875
!»■
Wilson,* Dr. John Smith. 3, Woodberry^illaaj Seven Sitters'-nad, St. Ann »-
road, Siamford-hill.
1877
Wilson, Majcr-Geueral J. 14, 5*. Jameit t-aqvare, S.W.
1872
Wilson, Kobert B. W., Esq.
1862
Wilson,* Eolart Dabie, Esq. 15, Green-^traet, Groaoenor-iquare, W,
1869
Wilson, Samuel King. Esq. 3. Portland-terrace, Segent't-park, N.W.
1879
Wilson,* Sir Samuel. Melbourne,
1S54
Wilson,* Arlmiral Thomas, 4, Royal York-crescent, Clifton, Bristol.
1 1872
Wilson, WiUiana Tliomns, Esq, Veutz, near Cologne.
1S6G
Wiltshire. Kev, Thomas, M.A„ F.O.S., F.L.s. 25, Granville-park, Lewiiham, S.E.
1866
Winch.* W. Hichnrd, E*q. North Mi/tmnit-park, ffatjield.
1870
Winchester, C. A., Esq. Oriental Club, W.
1875
Winchwter. The Most Hon. the .MwquU of. iK, Albany, TV.; and Ampwi St.
Miiry'a, Andocer.
1873
Windraro, JAine«, Esq.
1863
Wingate, J. F., Esq, 18, Allnon-street, ffyde-park-stputre, W,
1876
Wiuser, Tiiotnns Boormau, Esq. Shooter'a-hilt-road, Blackheath, S.E.
1 1870
Wiseman, Captain Sir Wm.. Bart., R.N. Care of Meaan. Caae and Zoudenanelty
1, Jamea-ftreet, Adelphi, W,C.
1874
Wodehouse, H. E^, Esq. Jlam-hill, Worcester,
1864
Wodchouse, J. H., Esq. (Il.M.'s Commissioner and CoD)iul-Geaeral for the
Sjnd'cich latanda).
1870
WodehouM, His Exoelteucy Sir Philip, k.c.b. {Governor of Bombay). Qiteen
Afuta'a-maitaitina, S. W.
1866
Wolff,* Sir Henry Drummoud, O.CM.o., «.P. Athenaitm Club, W.
188C
WolMley, Lieui.-rienerrtl Sir O.-truet J., o.c.x.o., E.c.B. AthenoHm Club, S.W.
1U73
Wonnacott, Jno., Esq., r.c.s. Sx, Wadhtitn.houae, Liakeard.
1873
Wood, Captain Alexander (BomliAy SufT Corps). Uealh-lodije, Ahbey-\r\Kjd,
Kent; and 14, St. Jatnea'a-square, S, W.
1673
Wood, Chas. M,ilcolm, E<q. HeatK-lod'je, Abbey-icood, Kent; and Jnnioe
.llhintiuiH Club, .^■. ir.
>ut 1
J
( cxvii )
LIST OF PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, &c..
TO WHICH COPIES OF THE * JODBMAL' AMD ' PB0CE8DUI0S ' ARK PRESEHTKD.
[Thow mutad wtth an wterfak * nc«lv« ihm lYnrwrltiji onlj.]
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND.
LlBKABT OP Hbk ILUSRT THE QOKBM.
A.OMIKALTT (Uydrognphie Office)
A.aRico(.TOsAL SociETT (lloyal)
AjrraBOPOLooicAi. iMmroTB
Antiqdabibs, Socibtt op
Architbcts, I21ST. OP BsiTiSH (Boyal)
Abts, Sociktt or
Asiatic Societt (Boy*!)
AsTRQfMOMICAL SOCIBTT (Roykl)
ATHEHiBOit Club
BRirroL MoBBCM ard Library
BsiTua MusBOM, Library of
—^—^-^— , Map Departmett
CAMDRioaB nmoN Societt
— UmyEBSITT LlBRART
COLOHIAL OmCE
DOBUH, ROTAL IrUH AcaDBMT
^1 TRimTT CotABOB LlBRABT
BoTAL Geouxsicaii Societt
(Trin, CoU.)
EDiHBORoa, RotalSocibtt op
, The Library op Advocates
— — , BoTAL Gbouxsical Societt
OP
EdUCATIOH DBPABTltEirr, LlBRART OP
EitoiHEERs, Irstitdtiom op Civil
Exeter, Albert Memorial Museum
FOBEIOR OppICE, LlBRART OF
Geouxsical Societt
Geoloot, Mosbum op Practical
Glasooit, Natural HmoRr Societt of
, PaiLOiOPHiCAL Societt (Cob-
FORATiOR Galleries)
Horticultural Societt (Royal)
HoDsoif's Bat Company's Librart
Hull Literart axo Philosopbicai.
Societt
India Office, Librart op the
IirrELLioENCB Bbahch, Q.M.G.'s De-
pabtmekt
Lahcasuirb akd Cdesribe, Historic
Societt of
LimiEAM Societt
LiTBKATUBE, BoTAL SoCIETT OP
Liverpool Lreeabt anu Phiumopui*
cALSocnrrT
*LlVEKFOOL MERCAimLB MaBIHB AM0>
CIATIOM
*LoVI>Oli LnBART, THE
Mahcmesteb, CarmAM's Librabt
— ^— — — Fbbb Libbart
• LlTEBABT ARD PHILO-
SOPHICAL Societt
Metborolooical OmcB
NEWCASTLE-UPOR-TTlfE LTTBBABr AMD
Philosophical Iiistitiitior
OxFOBD, The Boolbiar Libbabt
• , Radclifpb Obsebvatobt
vPosT-OppicB Librart abd Litebart
Assoclatiob
BoYAL Artillebt iMSTmmOB, Wooip
WICH
■ Librart, Woolvicb
Royal Colonial Irstitotb
RoTAL Dublin Societt
RoTAL Enoimebbs' Libraries (6 eo^es)
Care of War Office, Whitehall, S. W.
RoTAL Institutiom
Societt
Salpord Rotal Museum ard Librart,
Peel Park, Salpord.
Scottish Meteorological Societt
Societt of Biblical ABCR.«OLoaY
Sooth Kersinoton Museum, Eouca-
TIORAL and SCIERTIPIC LlBRART
Staff College, FAR!<BORonaH Statiok,
Hants
Statistical Societt
Trade, Board of, Librart of
Travellers' Club
UinTED Service iRSTrruTion (Royal)
Universitt of London, Lirrabt ofthe
ViCTORLA Institute, 10, Adelphi terrace,
W.C.
Zoological Societt
EUROPE.
Amsterdam,
Antwerp.
Athens .
Berlu .
AardrijkBkandig Genoot-
■ehap
, K. Akademie van Weten-
sehappen
. Soci^te de Geographie
, University Library
. K. Preussisehe Akademie
der Wissensohaften
. Gesellschaft fUr Erd-
knude
Bordeaux . SocietedeGrebgraphieCom-
merciale.
Bremen . . . Geographische Gesellschaft
Brussels . . Aoademie Rovale des
Sciences de Belgiqne
. . . Sooi^te Beige de G^
graphie
Bucbabest . Sooietatea Oeografica Bo-
i 1
CXTiii Itutitutions presented with ' Journal ' and • Proceedings*
'EUROPE— continued.
CnHiariAitiA .
CUFENUAGKN.
Darmstadt .
Dijon . .
DxesncN
FsANKroItT
GSHSVA .
GZHOA
Goto A
Uaqde (tug)
Haiui
Hai.i.b(an di:r
Salle) . . ,
Uamburo . . .
•Jewa
Leipzig ....
LiaaoH . . . .
•LroHi. . .
Madrid. .
MAIt|EIl.I.Ea .
3iii.A!r . . . ,
MuMicu . . .
Pabii
K. Norske Frederilu
Dnivcnitet
Ilydrcigraphlc Office
Dbnske Gradmji&lini;
K. DanHke Vldcnskaber-
nen Selitkab
K. Nordislt Oldskrift-
iflelskab
Vcreiii fiir Erdkund«
Acftdemie de« Sciences,
Arta ct BclloB-Lcttrei
Statistical Society
Vtrfiii fur <Jeo({rarhio
Suciele de Gengraphie
Socierc de PJiyiique- ct
d'bliHtoiro iiaturolle
Miueo Civico di Storia
naturale
Jiutuf Perth et' geogra-
p^l«cbo Anstalt
K. Itistitnut voor de
Toal-, I^aad-, en
Vnlken • Kunde van
NcJerlandsch indio
Verein fiir Krdkundc
fDeuiBche Morcenland-
^ iiche Gescllachart.
Geogr»phi»che G«»cU-
ichafl
UniverMty
Vercin fur Erdkunde
ComrniHilo Cenlrai p«r-
inanent« de Gci)|;raphi*
Acadcmia UcaL das
ScienciBS
Soci«tc de (ioographie
Ileal Academia de Cicn-
olu
Sociedad OeoKrdfira
Societe deGeot^raphie
R«a)e Entitulo Lombardo
Bibliotheque Ceotrale
Mill (aire
Gengraphiscbe GcsclU
Bchall
K. ilof- und Stuti< Bib-
liothclc
Institut National
Academie dcs Sciencps
Annates de I'AKricullure
et dea Kcfclons Trnpi-
oaJe«(Mndinier. .M.}
Bibliotheque N&tiiiriale
. Oeput do la Guerre
Paku
PejTii . . .
•PllACUE. .
ItoMK ....
St. PETEBSnunG
Stockholm
STRAaSBUHO ,
Tub lira EN
•UTnEcirr
V'emiob . .
VrE!*NA .
ZtlBICU
D^p6t de Ift Marine
Ministcre dc la Marine
et del Colonies
, Societe ARiati()ue
Societe d'Ethnograpliie
<irienlale ct Anjeti-
cainc
Societe d'Encoarajje-
ment poar I'Induatrte
Nationale
Societe de Geographie
A Magyar tudomun^'us
Akadcmia
Bohemian Royal Museum
K. .\ccBdeniia dci l^ineei
Sociela geogrnfica lla-
liana
Library of the Miniatry
of Puttlic Instructiou
National Library
Academie I m peri ale doa
Scieiu'irs
Iinperaiiinkn e Routs-
knye Cilieoin'apbitcli>
cskoye Obstchcstvo.
Byr&n tlir Sverijfp* I Jco-
lopiska Underhukuiiii;
Mautitk Mcteurulogiska
Byrin
K. !:^venskaTetenfkapi-
Akademi
Municipal Library
Suciele dc« Sciences na-
turi>lleB
I'nlveraity Library
K. Nederlandscb Me-
teorologiacii Inslituut
. The ArmeDian Insiitu-
tir>n and Academy of
St. Lasaro
K. Akademic dcr AVis-
senachafien
K. K. geographiicha
Gesellachaft
K. K. K^nlogiicho
Kelclisanstalt
OesicrreJchiscboGesell-
■chafi fiir Metcoru-
lopie
Oriental ische Ma»runi
Antiquariache Gcsoll'
schalt
, Naturfor»cbende Ge-
aellachaft
ASIA.
Calcutta .
Dkbra Dkoon ,
JAfAK . . , .
Asiatiii Society of Bengal
Geological Surrey of
India
Public Library
Great Trigonometrical
Survey of India, Li-
brary of
Afistjc Society
KURBACMEE
Madkai , .
Shakgrai
St 31 LA ,
General Library and
Muaeuin
Literary and Philoaoph.
Society
Boynl Asiatic Society
(North Cbina Branch)
, United Service Institu-
tion of India
InstUutiont presented vnth * Journal ' and * Proceedings^ cxix
AFRICA.
Cairo Sodettf Kb^dlviale de G^gnphia
Cxrc Town . . The Public Library
AMERICA.
Ai.ba:«t .... New York State LI-
brary
American Society of Arts
and Sciencea
Maasaehusetts State Li-
brary
Public Library
Society of Nat. History
liistorical and Geogra-
phical Institute
Academy of Sciences
, 'i'he New Library
Sociedad de Geografia y
Estadistica
Tale College Library
American Journal of
Science and Arts
, Geographical Society
(Cooper's Institute)
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AUSTRALASIA.
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gislature
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Institute
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Representatives
Mr. Richard Lander — Royal Medal— for the discovery of the
a>uisB of the Kiver Niger or Quorra, and ita outlet in the Gulf of
Benin.
Mr. John Biscoe — Royal Medal — for the discovery of the land
now named "Euderhy Land" and "Graham Land, in the Ant-
arctic Ocean.
Captain Sir John Ross, b.n.— Royal Medal— for discovery in
the Arctic llesions of America.
•Sir Alexander Bumes — Ro3-aI Medal — for the navigation of
the Itlver Indus, and a junmey hy Uiilkh and Bokhara acro^B
Cent ml Asiii.
•Captain Sir George Back, b.n.— Royal Medal — for iho disco-
very of the GrenL Fi.sh Stiver, and its navigation to the 84ai on the
Arctic Coast of Anienca.
'Captain Robert FitzRoy, ilk. — Royal Medal — for the survey
of ihu Sliort'8 of ratnguiiia, Chile, and Pcni.
•Colonel Chesney, r.a. — Hoyal Mwlal — for the general conduct ol
the "Euphrates Expedition" in 1835-0, ntnl for accessions to the
pL-o'^raphy of Sj'ria, Me80|>otamia, and the Delta of Susiana.
Mr. Thomas Simpson— Founders Medal — for the discoverj
and tracin<!, in 1H37 and 1838, of about 300 miles of the Arctic
shores nf America.
Dr. Edward Rlippell — Patron's Medal — for hia travels and
researches iu Nubi.i, Kordofan, Arabia, and AbysMinia.
Col. H. C. Rawlinson, E.t.c. — Founder's Medal — for his travoU
and researches in Susiaua and Persian Kurdistan, and for the light
thrown by him on the comparative geofirapby of Western Asia.
Sir R. H. Schomburgk— Patron's Medal — for hts trnvdB and
researches dnriuj; the years 1835-9 in the colony of British Guayaua,
and in the .adjacent part* of South America.
1841. — Lieut. Raper, r.n. — Founder *a Modal — for the jiuhlication of his
vv'ork on * Naviiintion and Nautical Actronnmy."
Lieut. John Wood, i-x. — Patron's Medal — for hia rorvey of the
Indus, and rL'-dtscovcry of the source of the River Oxua.
1842. — Captain Sir James Clark Ross, b.n. — Founder's Medal — for
his discovt-rifs in the Antarctic Ocean.
Rev. Dr. E. Robinson, of New York — Patron's Medal — for his
work entitled ' Biblical liescarchea in Palestine.'
1843.— Mr. Edward John Eyre— Founder's Metlal — for his explora-
tions in Australia.
Lieut. J, P. A. Symonds, h.b. — Patron's Medal— for his survey
in Palestine, and levels acrosti the ormntry to the Dead Sea.
i832.-
1833.-
1834.-
1835.-
1836.-
1837.-
1838.-
1839.—;
1840.—
Award of the Royal Premiums,
oxzi
1844. — Mr. W. J. Hamilton — Pounder'* Medal— for hU rcsesrcheB in
Asia Minor.
Prof. Adolph Ennan — Patron's Medal — for hi« extensive goo>
graphical labours.
1845. — Dr. Beke — Founder's Medal ^^ for his extenaive explorations in
Abviwinia,
M. Charles Ritter — Patron's Medal — for bis important gec^gra-
phical workii.
1846.— Count P. E. de Strzelecki — Founder's Medal — for his explo-
rations and discoveries in the bouth-Eoatern portion of Australia,
and in Van Diemen'a Land.
Prof. A. Til. Middendorff— Fatron'a Medal — for his extensive
explorations and ai.'^covericH in Northern and Eastern Siberia.
1847. — CapL Charles Sturt — Founder's Medal — for his varions and
extensive i'xpluratktus in Australia.
Dr. Ludwig Leichhardt — Patron's Medal — for a journey per-
formed from jM(jretoQ Bay to Port E88!n<j;ton.
1848. — Sir James Brooke, llajah of Sarawak and Governor of Labuan —
Founder's Medial — tor his pxpedition to Borneo.
Captain Charles Wilkes, u.8.n. — Patron's Medal — for liis
Voyii^if of liiscovery in tiio S. Hemisphere and in the Antarctic
Kcgions, in the years 1838-42.
1849.— Austen H. Layard, Esq., d.o.l. m.p. — Founder's Meikl— for his
oiiUributiuriH to Asiatic geography, reseaicbes in Mesopotamia, and
discoveries of the remiiias of Nineveh.
Baron Ch. Hugel — I'ntroa's Medal — for his expirations of
Cufihincru and aurrnimdtnj; countries, communicated in his work
entitled ' Kashmir uml das Reich der Siek.*
1850. — CoL John Ch. Prfimont— Patron's Medal— for his successful
explorations of the Kocky Muuntaiiis and California j and for his
nunieroua Di-saiveries ami Astronomical Observations.
The Rgv. David Livisqstone, of Kolobenp — a Chronometer Watch —
for his successfal explor<ttion!i of Suuth Africa.
Dr. GeoROG Walun, of Finland — 25 Guineas — for hii TrareU in Arabia.
Mr. Thomas Urukxer — 25 Guineas — for his exploratiosi in the MiJdU
Island of New Zealand.
1851.
1852.
-Dr. John Rae— Foumlcr's Medal — for his survey of Boothia and
of the Ct^j«t.<« of Wollaston and Victoria Lands.
Captain Henry Strachey— Patron's Medal— for his Surveys
in Western Tibet.
1853. — Mr. Francis Gal ton— Founder's Medal — for his explorations in
Southern AfricJi.
Commander E. A. Inglefield, r.n. — Patron's Medal — for his
Survey of the L'oasts of Batlin Bay, Suiitii and Lancaster Sounds.
1864.— Rear-Admiral William Henry Smyth— Founder's Medal —
for his valualijc Surveys in the Mediterranean.
Captain Robert J. M. M'Clure, b.».— Patron's Medal— for his
discovery of this North-West Pas.sa'^e.
1865.— The Rev. David Livingstone, m.d., «Src.— Patron's Medal—
for his Scientific K.xpJoratidtis in Central Africa.
Mr. Chaeles J. Andehsson — a Set of SurreyiDg InBtraments^for his
Travel* in South-Westem Africa.
CXXll
18o6.' — Eliaha Kent Kane, m.d. — Fouader's Medal — for his diaooreriM
in the I'otar li<:'j:i(iTis.
Heinrich Barth, full. db. — Patron's Medal — for bU exploratiotM
in CV^mral Afrio.
Cor|itiriil J, F, Church, of the Royal Engineers — »W»tch and Chain —
foe lii.i icientilk obserratioas wliilr attached to the Mumuji id Central
Africa.
l.M*,7. — Mr. Augustus C. Gretfory — Founder's Medal — for his explora-
litiiis ill Western and XurifuTii Aiihti-alta.
Lieut - Col. Andrew Scott Waugh, Bengal Kn^ineers —
i';itrt.m's Medal — for the Great Tiigononictricat Survey of India.
18.>S. — Captain RichEird Collinson, k.n. — Founder's Modal — for his
Disctivories in tiie Arctic l!eai"-'i)s.
lb5S. — Prof. Alexander Dallas Bache, Superinteadent U. 8. Coast
Survey — I'atrou's Meilal — lor his cxttfiijivo Surveys of America.
1859. — Captain Richard F, Burton — Founder's Medal — for his ExpJo-
i-aiioiiB iit Kasterii Oiitnil Africa.
Captain John Palliser — I'iUron's Medal — for his txplorationR in
lintish Xuith America and tliu Ivccky Mouutaiiis.
Mr. Joiix MAcnoUAt.L Stdaht — a Gold Watch — for hij Ducovcrics in
South and Central Au»tnilia.
1860. — Lady Franklin — l'\>uuilur*8 Modal — in commemoiation of the dis-
c<>verie8 nf Sir .1. Franklin,
Captain Sir F. Leopold McGlintock, b.k. — Patron's Medal
— for his Disooveries in the Arctic llegions.
18»»1,— Captain John Hanning Speke— I'oundcr's Medal— for the
iMsciivm" of tlie tireat Lal.i- Vii:titri:i Kyaiiza, K:i8t<'m Africa, &c.
Mr. John Macdouall Stuart— Patron's Medal — for his Esplo
nitiiHi^ in tli(> Interior of AuKtinlin.
1^02.— Mr. Robert O'Hara Burke— Founder's Medal— for his Explo-
nitioii'. in Aii-^tnitiji.
Captain Thomas Blakiston — Patron's Medal — for his eurvey
of tlie Kivor Yaiig-t.sz('-kiaii;i.
ilr. Jijiis KisG — a Gold Walth — for hU meritortous conduct while
fittaolied to the Exjiedition uuder Mr. R. O'Hnrn Uurke.
18G3.— Mr. Prank T. Gregory— Founder's Medal — for his explorn-
tiuus in Western Anstrnlia.
Mr. John Arrowsmith— Patron's Medal — for the very important
services he lias rendered to Geographical Science.
Mr. WiLLlAK LANWDOHO0GH— n Gold Watch— for «aoce«sftil Eiplora-
tioni in Australia.
Mr. John M'Kinlay — a Gold Watch — for snccftssful Eiplorationa in
Auiitralltt.
Mr. KRKDKaicfC WA.LKER — ^aGold Watch — for soeceasful Explorations
in Aii>trnlin.
18G4. — Captain J. A. Grant— Patron's Medal — for his journey from Zan-
ziUir Bcms* Kastern Equatorial Africa to Egjpt, in comixiny with
Captain Six'kc.
Baron C. von der Decken— Founder's Medal — for bin two
tii-osrapliical Snrvey«of the lolty Movtntnins of Kilima-niaro.
Ucv. \V. GiFFORD Palgravk — the sum t«f 2.'^^ Guinea*— for the pnrchaM
of :i Chronometer or other Testimonial, for his eJrentaroaa Joamey
in iin'l ncrusa Arabia.
ISGT},— Captain T. Q. Montgomerie, r.k. — Founders Modal— for hi*
'rrijronoTiittrical Survey ol Nurth-West India.
Award of the Boj/al Premiums. cxxiii
Mr. S. W. Baker— Patron's Medal— for bis relief of Gapts. Speke
and Grant, and bis endeavour to complete tbe discoveries of those
travellers.
Dr. A. VJbsBixt — the Bum of 40 Ponnds — for his Traveli in Central
Asia.
1866.— Dr. Thomas Thomson, m.d. — Founder's Medal — for his Ee-
searches in the Western Himalayas and Thibet.
Mr. W. ChandleSB— Patron's Medal — for his Survey of tbe Biver
PurQs.
M. P. B. no CHAILL0 — the sum of 100 Goineas— for his Astronomical
Observations in the Interior of Western Equatorial Africa.
MooLA AnouL Medjid — a Gold Watch — for his Explorations over the
Pamir Steppe, &c.
1867.— Admiral Alexis Bontakoflf— Founder's Medal— for being the
first to launch and navigate ships in the Sea of Aral.
Dr. Isaac L Hayes— Patron's Medal — for his memorable expe-
dition in 1860-61 towards the open Polar Sea.
18(>8.— Dr. AagOStUS Fetermann — Founder's Medal — for bis zealous
and enlightened services as a writer and cartographer in advancing
Geograpltical Science.
Mr. Gerhard Rohlfs— Patron's Medal— for his extensive and
important travels in the interior of Northern Africa.
The Poxorr employed by Captain T. G. Montgomerie — a Gold Watch
— for his route surrey from Lake Manaarowar to Lhasa, in Great
Thibet.
EoocATioNAii Prize: —
Mr. JoHX Wilson — the sum of Five Pounds — for successful competition
in Geography at the Society of Arts examination.
1869.— Professor A. E. Nordenskiold- Founder's Medal— for the
leading part he took in the recent Swedish Expeditions in tbe North
Polar Region.
Mrs. Mary Somerville — Patron's Medal — in recognition of the
able works published by her, which have largely benefited Geogra-
phical Science.
Schools' Prize Medals : —
Political Geography. — Hr. G. Richuond, Liverpool College (Gold Medal),
Jas. Dearden Wilde, Manchester Grammar School (Bronze Medal)
Physica! Geography. — Wu. Grumdv, Rossall School (Gold Medal).
Geo. Wm. Gent, Rossall School (Bronze Medal).
Educational Prize ; —
Mr. John Kidney — the sum of Five Pounds — for successful competi-
tion in Geography at the Society of Arts examination.
1870.— Lientenant Pras. Gamier (of the French Imperial Navy) —
Patron's Medal — lor his survey of the course of the great (Cambodian
River during the years 1866-8.
Mr. George W. Hayward — Founder's Medal — For his explora-
tions in Eastern Turkistan.
ScnooLs' Prize Medat^s: —
Political Geography.— Geo. Wh. Gent, Rossall School (Gold Medal).
Jas. Hr. Collins, Liverpool College (Bronze Medal).
Physical Geography. — Geo. Gret Botler, Liverpool College (Gold
Medal).
Martin Stewart, Rossall School (Bronze Medal).
Educational Prize : —
Mr. Thomas Richard Clarke — the sum of Five Ponnds — for success-
ful competition in Geography at the Society of Arts examination.
Award of the Royal Premiums.
1871.— Sir Roderick L MurcMson, Bart. — Founder'a Medal — in
recognition ol' the ennnoDt services lie has rendered to Geography
fhinn^ hia lont; connection with the Society.
A. Keith. Johnston, li-.u. — Pution'a Medal — for his long-con-
tiiuiLil and 8ucci'ssr«l services in advi^iicinp Geography, and especially
fur his merit ia «»rrying out hia scheme of Physical AlUses.
Schools' Prizk Mepals: —
Politicnl GfiMjriip/tt/.— Geo. Hoqbex, Univemity School, Nottiagham
(Gold Medal)."
RiCHD. Navloa Arkle, Liverpool College (Bronze Medal).
Phytical Otography. — Dadiel McALin'Kit, Lirerjiool Institute (Gold
Afedal).
Wm. OtiRSitOM COLI.INOWOOO, lirerpool College (Bronze Medal).
Educational Prize: —
Mr. John Aiuistrono — the «um of Five Ponnds — for successful com-
petition in Geography at the Society of Arts cxnintnatioD.
1872. — Colonel Henry Ynle, c.u. — Founder'H Medal — for the eminent
M'rvice« hes liaii rendered to Geography in the publication of his
three great works, 'A Mission to the Court of Ava," Cathay, and
the Way Thitiier,' and * M.arco Polo.'
Mr. Roioert Berkeley Shaw— Pa iron's Med nl — for his Joumeys
in East'Cra Tiirkistau, and for hia extciiKivc series of Aatronomical
and Hypsomctricd Uliservations, which have enabled ns to fix the
longitude of Yarkand, and have given ns, for the first tiine, the basis
of a new delineation of the countries lietween Lch and Ka.nhgar.
Li«ut. G. C. Mdsteks, ELN. — a Gold Walch — for lits adrenturoiis Journey
in Patagonia, through 9iI0 miles of latitude, ol which THO were pre-
Tioudy unknown ta Euro{«ans,
Kaill Mauch — the turn «f Twentj-fiTe Pounds in ncknowledgment of the
■cal and nhility with which lie hni devoted himself, fur a aeriea vf
year*, to the Eiploration of South-Eastern AfiJL'a,
BcHooLB* Prize Medais: —
Phytical Geography. — S. E. Si-ri.\o Rice, Eton College (Gold Medal).
A. S. Bdtler, Liverpool Collesie (Brunze Medal).
Political Qeoijraphy. — W. G. CoLLlWowooD, Liverpool CoUm (Gold
Medal).
W. C. Graham, Eton CoUe^ (Dranxe Medal).
Edtjcationau Prize; —
Mr. Geo. M. Thomas — the sum of Five Pounds— for snccesaful com*
petition in Geography at the Society of Arli Eiamination.
IBTS.^Mr. Ney Elias— Founder s Medal — for hia survey of the Yellow
Hivcr of China, in 1868 j and for his recent journey through Western
Mongolin.
Mr. H. M. Stanley— Patron's Medal— for hia discovery and relief
of Dr. Livingstone.
Mr. Thomas Uaixks — a Gold Watch — for bii long-coDtiuued serrices to
GeogTaphr, nnd especially for his joumeyi in Soulh-Western and
South-Eostem Africa.
Captain CAKLStN — a Gold Watcli — for his discoveries in the Arctic
Seas, and for having drcumnavigatcd the Spitsbergen aa well as the
Nova Zembla groups.
Schools' Prize MEDAiii : —
Physical Geography. — W. C. Hii>80N. Liverpool College (Gold Medal),
W. A, KoRH^:s, Winchester Collefce (Uron« WediJ).
Political Geography.— &. E. .SpltlSO TUcE, Eton College (Gold Sledal).
A. T. KUTT, University College School (bronze Medal).
i
Award of the Royal Premiwm, cxzv
1874.— Dr. Qeortf Schweinfarth— Founder's Medal— for his discovenr
of the Uelle Biver, heyond the South-western limits of the Nife
hasin ; and for his admirable work, * The Heart of Africa,* in whidi
he has recorded the results of his travels.
Colonel F. Egerton Warbnrton — Patron's Medal— for his
journey across the previously nnknown Western Interior of Aus-
tralia ; from Alice Springs, on the line of overland telegraph, to the
West Ckiast near De Grey Biver.
Schools* Pbize Medals : —
Fhytical Qeography. — Louis Westoh, City of London School (Gold
Medal).
Fbancis Cuables MOStaque, UniTcrrity College School (Bronse
Medal).
Politioal Qeography.— 'VvLUiM Habbt Titbtoh, Clifton College, Bristol
(Gold Medal).
Lionel Jacob, City of London School (Bronze Medal).
1875. — Lieut. Weyprecht — ^Founder's Medal — for his explorations and
discoveries in the Arctic Sea between Spitzbergeu and Nova
Zembla.
Lieut. JtlliUB Payer — Patron's Medal — for his journey and dis-
coveries along the coast of Franz-Josefs Land, between tipitzbergen
and Nova Zembla.
W. H. Johnson — Gold Watch — for wrvices rendered to Geography
while engaged in the Gi«at Trigonometrical Surrey of India among the
Himalayas.
Schools' Pbize Medals : —
Physical Geography. — Henbt Alexanoeb Miebs, Eton Coll^ (Gold
Medal).
Abchibald Edwabd Gabrod, Marlborough College (Bronze Medal).
PolUical Geography. — Sidney H. B. Sacndebs, Dulwich College (Gold
Medal).
Wm. C. Grahah, Eton College (Bronze Medal).
1876. — Lieut. V. Lovett Cameron^ b.n. — Founder's Medal — for his
journey across Africa from Zanzibar to Benguela, and his survey of
tlie Southern half of Lake Tangacyika.
Mr. John Forrest — Patron's Medal — in recognition of the services
to Geographical Science rendered by his numerous successful explora-
tions and route-surveys in Western Australia.
Schools' Pbize Medals :—
Physical Geography. — John Wilkif, Lirerpool College (Gold Medal).
Walteb New, Dulwich CoUege (bronze Medal).
Political Geography. — TuoMAS Knox, Haileybnry College (Gold Medal).
W. M. H. MiLNKB, Marlborough College (Bronze Meikl).
Cahbbidos Local Examinations Pbize Medal : —
F. H. Glanvill, Devon County School (Silrer Medal).;
OxFOBD Local Examinations Pbize Medals : —
John Wilkie, LiTerpool College (Silver Medal).
H. M. Wabd, Bridgnorth Grammar School (Bronze Medal).
1877. — Captain Sir George S. Naree, b.n., k.c.b. — Founder's Medal
— for having commanded the Arctic Expedition of 1875-6; also
for his Geographical services in command of the Challenger Expe-
dition.
cxxvi Award of the Royal Prcmnwis.
The Pxmdit Nain Singh— Putron's Metkl— for hU great
jounicys siml surveys in Tibet and along the lT))per BrahniEjtutra,
during which he (ietermitied the position of Lhdsa, and added
liir^ely to our poeifcive knowledge of the Map of Asia,
CiipUiii A. H. Markiiam, r.m. — a Gald Watch — for haring commMKied
the Nortliers Din«ion of sledges io the Arctic E«p»dition of 1875-6,
ADd for hrtvitig planted the Union Jacic in 83*^ 20' 2(J'' N., a higher
latitude tluiD had been reached by any previous Ejpedition.
Bcnoou' Pbizk Medals: —
Phyiicul Qtograpkii. — ^Walter New, Dnlwidi College (Gold Mednl).
ARfiiun .Smyth Flower, Winchester College (Hronzo Metkl).
PoliiicAil Geograph'/. — William John Newton, Liverpool College
(Gold Mediil'j.
JOJIS WlUtiE, LireijKiol College (Bronze Sled^I).
Cambridue Lopai. Examination's Prize Mkdals: —
II. C, TsarLE, UrigflitoTi Gmmnuir iikjhool (Silver Medal for Physical
Guogmphy, and SiIvlt Meilal lor I'olitical Geography).
Oxford Local Examinations Prize Mebai^: —
John ItiDWARD Llovd, Cliflihnm Institute. Liverpool (Silver Mednl).
Jaues Epwik Fortt, City Middle-Clius School (BroDse Mednl).
1678. — Baron P. von Richthofen — Founder's Medal — f<ir his exten-
sive travels niid scioiuilic txj»li>i!Uioiis in China ; also for his great
work in which the materials aecumnlatcd during Ida long journeys
arc clahoratfd with reraarkahli^ lucidity and complctencsa.
Captain Henry Ttotter, R.E.— Patron's Medal— for his ser-
vicfs t") tij-iijiiraphy, in havins conductecl the Survey operations of
th« Ititt- Jlissioii to Easteni Turkistau. under Sir Douglas Forsyth,
wliicli nsiiltfd in the connwtion of the Trigonometrical Survey of
India with Ilussian SiirvL-ys from Siberia; a:id for Imviag further
greatly improved the tnap of Central Asia,
Scnooi-s' Prize MEnAi.s: —
flnjukiit Geo^rapkii. — WiLUAU JoitN Newton, Lirerpool College
(Gold Medah'
Ciikistophcr JfouwBev Wrtsos, Clidon Collejje (Sjirer Wednl).
PoiUioal Oeoipnphij. — William Wallack Ord, Dulwicli College (Gold
Medal).
George Abxulo Tomkinson, Haileybury College (Silver Metbl').
CASiBacDGE Local Examinations Pbizk Medals: —
I'. W. KvA»8, Cardiff (Silver Mednl for Physical Geography).
.1. IIaVHES, West Auckland (Silver Medivl tor rolitical Geography).
( 'XFORD Local Examinations Prize Mkdai^ ;—
AHTJiiR Edwin Kci.TA!UCK, North London Colkge fuhcKil (Silver Medal).
Fbkoluick William Ku.LETT, KingAwoodand WoodhouM Gtore School
(Bionze Mednl).
1870.- Colonel N. Prejevalsky— Patron's Medjil— for his Buocessire
Exijwlitions, route-burveya, in the years 1870-3 to Mongolia and the
high plateau of Northern Tibet — unexplored country; also fi>r his
jouniey from Kulja to Lob-Nor in 1876-7, and fm' his published
narratives of his travels.
i
Award of the Royal Premium*. cxzvii
Captain W. J. Gill, B.E.— Founder'* Medal— for the important
Geographical work along the northern frontier of Persia in 1873,
and in Western China and Tihet in 1877 ; and especially for the
traverse-sorvey made by him during the latter journey, and the
▼ery complete maps of his route.
Schools' Prize Medaxs : —
Phytkal Qaography. — Matthew Geoboe Gbant, Liverpool College
(Gold Medal).
Frank Taylor Suarpe, LiTerpool College (Sllrrr Medal).
Politioal Geography. — David Bowie, Dnlwich College (Gold Medal).
Clacob L. Bicknell, Harrow Sdiool (Silrer Medal).
Cambridge Local Examtsatioxs Prize Medals: —
J. R. Davis (Silver Medal for Phywcal Ge<5gmphf).
Mias Helen Jones (Silver Medal for Political Geography).
Oxford Local Exahu;ations Prize Medals: —
Allan Danson Riobt, Liverpool College ^Silver Medal).
Ernest Edward Kellett, Kingswood Sdiool, Bath (Bronze Medal).
1880.— Lieut. A. Louis Palander— Founder's Medal— for his services
in connection with the Swedish Arctic Expedition, under Prof. A. E.
Nordenskibld, in the Vega in 1878-9.
Ernest Giles — Patron's Medal— for his explorations and surveys
in AustrRlia in 1872-6.
Bishop Crowther — Gold Watch— in recognition of his services
to Geography on the River Niger.
£. H. Bunbury— Vote of Thanks hy the Council in acknowledg-
ment of the value of his ' History of Ancient Geography.'
Schools' Prize Medals : —
Physical Geographi/. — David Bowie, Dulwich College (Gold Medal).
Albert Lewis Huhphries, Liverpool College (Silver Medal).
Political Geography.— Fa,SDKRiC& James Naylob, Dulwich College
(Gold Medal).
Theodore Brooks, London International College (Silver Medal).
Cambridge Local Examimatioks Prize: Medals : —
Miss A. S. Westbury (Silver Medal for Physioil Geography).
W, Hornby (Silver Medal for Political Geography).
f
•'■'/;.
JOURNAL
OF THE
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
FOR THE SESSION 1878-79.
V0L.XLIX.
[Published Septembkb 2Ot0, 1880.]
I. — Itineraries of the Second Khedivial EzpedUion: Memoir
explaining the New Map of Midian made hy the Egyptian
^ff-officers. By Kichard F. Burton.
[With Map.*]
** Tanta ad pericala et impendia satis fuit causa sperare qnod cuperent.'* —
Pliny, 'Nat. Hist.' xxxiii. 21,
Part I.
The Betwm to North Midian, and Cruise in the Chdf El ^Ahdbak.
Introductory Bemarks. — In the following pages I offer to
the Royal Geographical Society the Route-book and Itineraries
of the Expedition of 1877-78, in its threefold division, which
formed our second journey to Midian ; and here it is proposed
to dwell especially upon the lines of road ; the positions, the
geography of the country ; and, briefly, upon all that constitutes
{)ure topography. Thus the present Journals will serve as
etter-press to the map drawn up from the flying surveys of the
three Egyptian Staff-officers who were detailed by the Khediv
of Egypt to lay down the limits of His Highness's eastern-
most provinces. The papers, therefore, will in no wise assume
the character of a popular volume.
A popular account of the First Khedivial Expedition has
already appeared in ' The Gold Mines of Midian,' &c. (London :
C. Kegan Paul and Co., 1878). The ethnological information,
such as descriptions of the tribes collected by the second,
has been reserved for future publication ; the notes upon the
little collection of antiquities and human crania have been
♦ From ' The Laud of Midian (Revisited),' C. Keg-xn Paul and Co., 1879.
VOL. XLIX. B
2 Burton'* Itineraries cjmeSecond Expedition xnto
forwarded to the Anthropological Institute ; and the coins of
Blidian to the Ilfiyal Asiatic Society. * Th6 Laud of Midiau
(Revisited),' my last two volumes (Loudon : C Kegau Paul & Co.,
1879), contain a relation historiqite, a, general account of our
last journey, witliout, however, entering into scientific notices
or topographical details.
A nd, first, a few observations upon the country which haa, I
may say, been explored by the two Khedivial Expeditions of
1877 and of 1877-78.
The Land of Midian is by no means one of the now numerous
" geographical expressions. ' The present tenants of the soil
give a precise and practical definition of its limits. Their
" Arz Madyan " (^,j^< ^ \) extends from El-'Akabah north
(Raper : n. lat. 29° 28') to El-Muwaylah, with its Wady, El-Surr
(X. lat. 27" 40'), a total latitudinal length of 108 direct geo-
graphical miles.* South of this line, the seaboard of north-
western Arabia, as far as El-Hijaz, has no generic name. Tho
Bedawin are contented with such vague terms, derived from
some striking feature, as " The Lauds of Ziba," of "Wady
Salma/' of ''Wady Daraah," of "■ El -Wijh,"— to denote the
tract lying between the parallels of El-Muwaylah and of Wady
Hamz (^^.rk,*^) in N. lat. 25*' 55' 5". Thus the north-south
length of the southern moiety would be 105 direct geagraphical
miles, or a little less than tiie northern ; and the grand total
would be 213 miles.
The breadth of this oaetermnoat province of Egypt is the
distance from tho sea to the maritime moinitains. Li
■" Madyan " (proper), the extremes would bo 24 and 35 miles.
For the southern half these distances may be doubled. The
Bedawin are here again definitive in their limits: all the
" Tihamah," or lowlands and their ranges, belong to Egyj)t ;
east of it, the Daulat Sham, the "Govornment of Syria"
claims possession.
I have taken tho liberty of calling the whole tract Midiau :
the land above El-Muwaylah (Madyan proper) I would term
« North Blidiaii," and that below it " South Midian." In the
days of the ancient Midianites the frontiers were so elastic
that at times, but only temporarily, they embraced Sinai, and
ivero pushed forward even into Central Palestine. Moreover,
• L«t me prote«t at once ngaraat tho oflsertion contained in on nble review of
" The Oold Mines " (' Pall-Malt Gnzctto,' June 7, 1878). Tho writer makes nncicitt
Million "ixtend from tho north of Lhc Ambic tiulf (El-'Akultiih ? ) nuil Arat)ia
Felix (which? of tho clasaica or of the u»oilcm8?)to tho {>luius of Mouh" —
exactly where, if it ever did, it aaguredly does not now extend.
Bdrton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Rlidian. 3
I would prolong the limits eastward as far as tlio Damaaciis«
Medinah road of Sultan f^ulayman the Magnificent. This would
be politically and ethnologically correct. With the exception of
the Ma'azah country, the whole region l>elong9 to Egypt ; and all
the tribes, formerly Nabathojan and now more or less Egypto-
Arab, never question the rights of His Highness the Viceroy,
who garrisons tlve seaboard lorts. Of the other points, historical
and geographical, I am not so sure. My learned friend, Aloys
Sprenger, remarks : " Let mo observe that your extending the
name * Slidian * over the whole country, as far south as the
dominions of the Porte, ajtpears to me an innovation, by which
tl»e identity of the race along the shore of the Gulf of 'Akabah,
and of the coast down to Wajh and Hawra, is prejudged*
Would it not be better to leave Midian whore it always has
been, and to consider Bada * the centre of Thamuditis, as it
vras in the time of Pliny and Ptolemy, and as it continued to be
nntil the Balee (IJaliyy), and other Qodha'a (Kudd'a) tribes, came
from Sonthem Arabia, and exterminated the Tbamudites?"
This is, doubtlatss, a valid objection ; its only weak point is
that it goes too far back. We cannot bo Conservatives in
geography, nor attach mucli importance, in the nineteenth cen-
tury, to a race, the Beni Tamud, which had wholly disappeared
before the seventh. On the whole, it still appears to me that
by adopting my innovation we gain more tlian we lose ; but
tlie question must be left to a higher tribunal, the geographical
world.
In our days two great Sultanis (" highways ") bound Madyan
the less and Midian the greater. The western, followed by the
Hajj el-Misri (Egyptian caravan), dates from the age of
Sultan Selim Khan (ob. A.D. 1520), El-Fatih, or the Conqueror,
who, before making over the province to the later Mumliik
Beys, levelled the rocks, cut through ridges, laid out the track,
dug wells, and defended the line by forts. Before that time
the road lay, tor convenience of water, to the east or inland ;
it was, in fact, the old Nabatbaian highway which, according to
8trabo, connected the southemmost port, Leukfe Eome, with
the western capital, Petra, Farther east, and far beyond the
double chain of maritime mountuina, runs the highway followed
by the Hajj el-Shami (Syrian or Damascus caravan), which
seta out from Constantinople, musters at Damascus, and repre-
sents the puissance of th«!^ Porte, According to the Akhbdr
el-Duwal (* Notices of Kingdoms' t) by Ahmed el-Dimisldd
• See chap. IT. of the • Land of Midian (Eeviaited) ; ' and Part HI. sivt. 3 of
this puper.
t Not " tilling.* of climip:os nf frirtDDCs,*' aa interprclod in tlio ' Journul of tbo
Aajrul Ueo^mpUical Society,' vol. xx. p. 31S».
B 2
4 BuRTOK** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
(finished a.h. 1008 = a.d. 1599), the successor of Sultan Selim L,
Sultaa Sulyman Ivlian (ob. 15GG) laid out this road, built tho
castle of Tabiikj nud placed there a guard of twenty jauissuries
to protect the spring from the Bedawin. On both these maia
lines water is procurable at almost every station, and to them
military expeaitions are perforce limited. The parallelogram
between the two, varying in breadth, according to Wallin, from
90 to 120 miles (direct and geographical), is irregularly supplietl
with fountains, wells and rain-pits, which can always be filled
up and rendered useless by the Bedawin.
I now proceed without further preamble to our march.
I. Departure of the Expedition. — On Wednesday, December
19, 1877, the second Khedivial Expedition to the mines of
Midian Innded from Ilis Highness s gunboat the Mukhhir
(Capt. Mohammed Siraj), at a gap, called a port., in the reef of
EI-Muwaylab (v. lat. 2T :J9', aud e. long. 35° 28'), This fort
and station of the Egytian na|j ("Pilgrim caravan") was de-
scribed some 31 years ago by that excellent Arabist, the late
Dr. George Aug. Wallin; he travelled in 1847-48, and he pub-
lished in tho ' Journal ' of the Royal Geographical Society, vol.
xr., 1850. As will he seen, he is in error when " finding no
mention made of Muweileh (El-Muwaylah) in Arabic manu-
scripts, nor any traces or traditions among the existing gene-
ration in the land, pointing to a high antiquity," he professes
himself *' inclined to consider it a town of modern origin " (loe.
cit. p. 300). Equally mistaken, I bolieve, was tho learned
Vincent (Periplus, &C.), who attempts to identify it with the
great naval and commercial station of Leuke K6me, a term
applicable to almost any settlement on this coralline coast.
The "White Village," however, lies, as will be seen, much
farther south.
Before leaving tho coast I must briefly introduce the second
Khedivial Expedition to tho reader. The personnel, not
including the Commander, was composed of eight Europeans :
M. George Marie (engineer) ; Mr. uharles Clarke, Telegraph.
Engineer (commissariat officer) ; M. Lacaze (aHist and ])hoto-
grapher); Mr. David Duguid (chief engineer of the gunboat),
temporarily attached to us; and Jllr, Philipin (smith), with
three Greeks — at least two too many : — Anton (dragoman),
Giorgi (cook), and Petros (waiter). There were five Egyptian
officers — Ahmed Kaptan Musjdlam, Commander Egyptian
navy (astronomical observer) ; and two on the staff {Arhan-
Marh) ; Lieutenant Amir, who had accompanied tho first
Khecfivial Expedition, and Lieutenant Yusuf Taufik (mupj)eri
and surveyors) ; Darwaysh Effendi, Lieutenant in the Piyadah
(line), commanded the escort; and sub-Lieut. Mohammed
«
BuRTOX* Itinerariea of the Second Expedition into Midian. 5
Faraliat> the Ma'adanjiyah and Haggarah (sap[er8, mmere and
quarrymen).
The mea were three privates of the staff, including AH
'Brahim, a hard-working and valuable servant; and Yiisef el-
Fazi, his mate, a quartermaster, lent by the gunboat; the latter
was generally useful as uti English sailor. The escort, under
an Egyptian sergeant and four corporals, was coin[>osed mostly
of emancipated negroes, with a few Sudanis <-ollected from
every tribe in the Ijfu^iti of the Upper Nile. These men were
armed, with Remington?, except the trumpeter, who carried a
navy Colt; and they numbered twenty-five, not including the
pistoleer or the Buluk-amin (writer). I alsu engaged five
Bash-Buzuks from tlie little garrison of El-Miiwaylau, because
the irregulars are familiar with the country, and friendly with
the Bedawin. The sappers, miners and quarrymen, who were
unarmed, amounted to thirty-three, without reckoning the
sergeant, the corporal and the carpenter. Tims the total was
sixty-five men, or seventy, including officers.
The Ras el-Kafilah, or commander of the caravan, was the
Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahim, who escorted us during; the first journey ;
and he generally had with him, besides my oUi friend, Haji
Wali of Zagazig, three Bedawi Shayks ; for escort and
service the latter received each au honorarium of one dollar
per diem. The camp-followera were few : a iSais or groom, who
superintended the care of our ten mules; AH Mullah, a Barbari,
servant to Ilaji Wali; Ilusayn (reninahj a boy who waited
upon Lieutenant Yusuf; and "Ilamai]," an itinerant coffee-
vendor, who attached himaelf to us at El-Muuaylah. 1 hardly
need notice the cameleers and tlieir varlL49, who were always
being changed.
The transport difficulties were increased by the rivalry of
the two tribes that contended for the hnnrmr and profit of
fleecing us. The first were the Beni 'Ukbih, or "Sous of the
Heel," who claim, after Arab fashion, the land on which the
fort El-Muwaylah is built. Their Sliaykh. Hasun ibn Sallnx
el-'Ukbi, who had been honoured with an order from the
Government of the Viceroy, declared himself willing to supply
any number of camels at the rate of 1 dollar a-liead for the
four very short marches between EI-Muwuyluh and the Jebel
el-Abyaz, my present objective. But a former einployot 'Abd
el-Nabi of the Tagaygat clan of the great Huwaytat tribe,
refused to march with t!ie Beni 'Ukbah ; demanded a third
more pay; and, professing readiness to carry me and mine
gratis, would not move under 1 dollar 25 cents. In April
1877 he had proved himself a manner of noble savage, a good
man and true. But my kiudness had spoilt him; and the
G Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
only remedy was to send him about his business as soon a»'
possible.
It is usual in Arabia to engage camels by the stage, not by
the day. For instance, tlie pilgrims pay accordiu^ to tariffj
1 dollar per long march of 12 huur;^, and tiio same is the hire I
for a dromedary post. But this would have been hardly foirj
to the Arabs, when we intended to make weekly and evedj
longer halts. At last I agreed to hire each camel for 5 piastres'
on idle and ten on working days : the piastre being assumed at
9'7"2U = 1 sovereign.
II, Itinerary from El-Muwaylah to Magliair Sliumjh. — Decern
her 20ih, 1877. — The day was spent in starting a dromedary-|
post, in housing and ticketing our stores entrusted to a maga-^
zine-man at the Fort of El-Jduwaylah, and in settling various
disputes,
I)ec. 2l3i. — The large, straggling and most disorderly cara-
van, carrjing 20 tents and 50 large boxes, required about
80 animals, without counting a certain number of dromedaries]
(Hijn) for riding purposes. The hali-loads. brought up the
total to 106; and the greedy drivers demanded pay for 120.
It would irk the reader to recount the normal troubles of such i
marches. fcJuflSce it to say that the men were as wild and un-j
manageable as their beasts ; that the latter were half-starved ; j
that nothing could be worse lliaa their gear, and that thef
caravan for the first four days was the most disorderly mobj
that I have yet seen. Of course it gradually improved, and at]
last we could load in fifteen minutes; this day the prucesS'
had wasted five hours.
The trumpet sounded the " General " at 3 A.M., and tha
start took place sometime about 8 A.M. We marched past thtf-j
old tomb of Sluiykh Abdullah by the way of the Egyptian]
pilgrimage along the sbore. After 2 hours the road forks; t
wanted to take tho left, but was led to the right: despite my
express orders to encamp for the night near the seashore ruins'
of Tiryam, we were guided to its nakhil or ixdmetwn, distant
1 hour 30 minutes walk up tho valley, and described during
my first expedition.* There is nothing Arabs and Egyptians^
will not do in order to pitch tent as near water as they safel]
can. Tho broad dusty track, laid out by camels* feet, sub-J
tended the long projection Has Wady Tiryam (Lead of the
Tiryam Valley), shown in the Ad. Chart : it rests upon a base
of knobby hilts and hillocks from 50 to 150 feet high, dirty-
yellow grit of modern formation, scattered with sand and
metalled with rusty ironstone, which here and there appears
•The Gold Uinefl of Midian,'p. 272.
I
in blotches. Despite the heavy rains of December 9-10, 1877,
the land was utterly dried up : we saw a single troop of
l^azelless, a few sea-fowl, nnd a little loug-eared hare lite a
lejwride, now in the British Museum. Tlie hardy thonis,
acacias and mimosas ; the juicy salsolac^ie and su.x'die, sali-
comifiB (jjer/oliata), and Bcelhnlhvis {quadra ff onus) ; thecentawrea
and the Statice pruinosa, or Bea-lavender, were the only vegeta-
tion which liad resisted tlie long droup;ht. Beyond the point
we turned abruptly towanls the sea, thus taking 5 to do the
work of 3 hours. The distance by the Ad. Ctiart is 11 direct
geographical miles : \vo estimated our detour at 15^ slat. ;
and the odometer, an Austrian messrad or wheel (Willmann,
Wien), which lost no time in breaking down, sbowed 22 kilom.
70() metres. Most of the instrument?, I must here explain, were
bought at Cairo, which appears to be the general receptacle of
European rubbish, all sold at double the Paris prices. Con-
sequently tliey were as useless as they were costly. The mercu-
rial barometer (Elliutt Bros. 24) lent to ua by General Stone
(Pasha), Chief of the Staff, Cairo, when opened contained
amalgam, not mercury ; the harotneire aneroide was found in
its box with the chain-hook broken ; the maxima and minima
thermometers were absolute trash, and the two watches,
" Dents " made nt Ueneva, presently refused to go. ' Fortunately
I had my little travelling set by Casella; aud even his
maxima and minima were too delicate to resist camel-jolting.
General Purdy Pasha of the Egyptian Staff, who remained
upwards of two years surveying Dar For, found, after many
a trial, that chrouomelera in those countries travelled best in
panniers on donkey-backs. In India we sling them, Banghy-
ushion, over men's shouUlei-s; but hero and in Africa, the
patient coolie's [tlaco is taken by a rough aud reckless article,
utterly unworthy to be trusted with anything more delicate
than a cooking-pot.
Lee. 227id. — Of the three first marches I have little to say :
they are already described in ' The Gold Mines of Midian. *
We spent the early morning in digging at the small s<|Uare
fort which occupies rising grouud on the left j<uv of the Wady
Tiryam, and which protected the townlet to the north. These
ruins, like most others in Midinn, are denoted by pottery, coarse
and fine, which may be of any age, and by scatters of blue-
green glass, thick and thin : the latter is comparatively modem,
and very different from the almost decomposed fragments,
iridescent with damp, which are found below ground. The
* For the futoie I aWll c&ll it vol. i., and my seoond work voU. ii. ftod iii.
8 BubtonV Itineraries of theSecoTuI Erpedition into Midian.
tliggings showed stony substructures, but their produce did
not explain whether the enceiute is old or medieval, one of the
fortlets thrown up to defend the Hajj route.
Tho Expedition left Tiryam at noon, following the Pilgrim-
Irack, and, after 35 miles, passed on the right a low range of
Bandstono-hillB, the Jebel Eazi ( J^ ) : the broad-mouthed
Fiumara of the same name supplies, near the sea, a pit of
sweet water. As usual along I lie whole foastof Madytm (north
Midian, or MiiUan Propoi), except in one place where the
mountains fall sheer into the Gulf of 'Akabah, the surface
shows much more Wady-Iand than divide, and some of the former,
like the "VYady Garagarah (j ^^^ ^* are of great width,
measured by miles. Wady Sharnia appeared from afar black
with thorn-trees and 'Abal ( \ _>)t {Suaeda montica?), a salt-bush
eaten by camels. AH these settlements being apparently laid out
upon oue plan, maritime " residences " for the rich, and inland
quarters near sweet water for the slave-miners : 1 hoped to find
ruins at the i?haruitt Valley-mouth distant 7 to 8 winding miles
from tho date-grove at the gorge. Accordingly, the Shaykhs were
directed to muich towards the shore. As yesterday they had dis-
obeyed, so to-day they obeyed orders, much to our detriment;
and, after a lung and weary round, when already nearingour des-
tination, they all assured rae that there were no remains on the
seaboard. I .sent MM. Clarke and Duguid to ascertain tlie truth,
and they found only a lino of high loose «indy dunes. If the
Sharmaites built anywhere on the coast, it must have been on the
south-eastern side of tlie great 'Ayuiinah JJay, the place called
Mu.sa>'bat Sharnia, provided with a brackish ttell, and some two
huurs' distant from sweet water. The march tu tiie *' nakhil,"
or Date and Dora-grove of iSharma, which does not appear
in the Admiralty Chart, occupied 4 hours, 3 hours being the
number assigned to the pilgrims. The distance, assuming
the nndes to walk 3i^ stat. miles lor the first half and 3 for the
second, would represent 13 stat. miles.
Bee. 2drd, — We set out late this morning in consequence of a
visit to the foot-hills behind the sea-clitf, which showed a pmall
outcrop of copper. The swampy Wady Shiirma, whose gap is
about ^rds of a mile wide, cannot be ascended by camels; and
the same is tho case with the Wadya 'Aynuiiah and Maknd. On
• Plural of "Jftrjiir," n lurjre, bullcy or big-Mlied pamel.
t '^'Abal " iu daasicul Amliic means a plant with gleoder eprigs, twisted or im-
bricated k'BTes, " AMI " is the mouDtain-roso, egluatino or »wett-brixir : ocooid-
iog to tome, the rod of Moses vas au " abalah."
BuBTOJj'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
the return march, Mr. Clarke and Lieut. Amir went directly
down the gorge, finding, after 20 miles ride, an S-ahaped
channel, with water at the head, risinf» from under tlie rock, and
producing a fetid growth of sedge and the rushes called El-
Kasbdi, f\ ..^*) i^Arundo do^iax) and El-Birdi (a flag). Farther
down, the line is choked with palm-trees and their dry fronds.
The travellers came in, after half an hour's wade, wet through,
and dragging their dromedaries, which had much trouble to
follow them. Perhaps tho most effective of JM. Lacaze's
sketches, and certainly those most admired at the little exhibi-
tion which was opened at the Ilippodrooie, Cairo, was the
water-scenery of Wady Sharma. It was a surprise to all, and
a practical rout of all preconceived ideas upon the subject of
arid Arabia.
There are two camel-roads from Sharma to the Jebel el-
Abyaz, the focus and centre of the quartzose outcrop in this
part of Midian. The southern was inspected by M. Philipin ;
it runs over parti-coloured hills, black and white, rod and
green ; about hidf-way is a well, but the total distance measures
t> instead of 4 hours' march. Tlve northern and best road,
which wo now took for the second time, crosses the two bi-anches
of the Sharma water, ascends the right bank, and loaves to the
left an ancient Bedawi cemetery, with the ruins of a heptangular
demilune, possibly intended, like those above Wady liryam, to
defend the western approach. Flying surveys of the lower
and the upper fort were made by Lieuts. Amir and Yusuf,
wJio alone are responsible for their correctness. The former
measured in circumference 20S5 yards {not several kiloms.,
vol. i. p. 2(i.9). The north-east part of the enceinlo showed
signs of metal-working, and here desultory digging yielded
ashes, charcoal, and broken pottery.
After 35 minutes* riding along the seaward face of the coral-
line herge which forms tho old coast-line, and which from afar
looks regular as artificial earthworks, we turned to the right
through a " Bab," or gate, measuring 70-80 yards {not " 200
metres "), cut by a torrent which evidently has not flowed for
years. Once it must have dischargeil into the splen^lid Bay of
'Ayminah, which, nameless and placeless on the chart, was so
scandalously libelled by the Greek Agatharkides, as preserved
in Dio<lorus Siculus and Photius.* The western spit is called
El-MaUdhah (•' of the salinas "), salt being still washed there.
The anchorage behind it is the Musaybat Sharma. By this
10 Burton V Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
way, doubtless, ancient Sharma commmiicated with the G&d
(^\jj^)* or Marsa Khuraybeb, under the eastern spit, before
noticed as the maritime settlemeat of *Ayuunah. It is open
only between the west and the north-west ; here, too, reefs and
shoals allow only a narrow passage, but admit the largest craft.
Its breadth across tbo mouth measuros over 3 miles, and the
depth inland, useful for refuge, is very nearly *2 miles. When
the silver-ores of the country about the Jebel el-Abyaz shall
be exported, this fine port will be the terminus of the tramway.
The depth may average 10 fathoms; and our Sambulc, El-
Musahhii (Rais liamazau), a native boat of 50 tons, which acted
tender to the Miikhbir, rode in perfect safety dose to the shore
of the Musaybat Sbarma.
The tram should be simple and economical, like "The
Economical," proposed by Mr. Russell Shaw, or " The Pioneer,"
invented by IVlr. John L. Haddaii, M.Inst.C.E. It must be able to
turn sharp curves and follow the valley-lino now to be described.
We wound up the gut, whoso bright yellow sands were set off
by the bouudiug hills and hillocks of gloomy bottle-grefu por-
phyritic trap which, throughout this part uf Midian, cuts through
every kind of rock, quartz-veins included. After an hour aud a
half 8 ride, ruddy porphyritic trap and pink grits, an old de-
composition, begin to prevail, and give a somewhat livelier
aspect. In places there are outbreaks of syeuite-like granite,
rich in orthose aud poor in mica. Here is " El-Muhasir,"! a long
oval basin measuriug some 5j^ bv 1:1^ miles, between north-son tii
(160°-340" mag.) and east-west (30" -250°). It is the head of t ho
Wady Sharma proper ; and the tail of the Wady el-Maka'dah
(i>jotL<)» "^^ ^^'^ sitting-place"). At this point both water-
courses anastomose with the Wady Umm Niran and the Wady
'Ayniinah ; in fact the whole country is a network of theso
fiumaras and nullahs, dried-up river-fissures, watercourses, and
torrent-beds. The cumpass showed the head of El-MtUlah at
250' (mag.), and that of Shanna, distinguished by a long line
of i-eddish sand, bearing IGO"^ (mag.). Here vegetation—
Artemisia, CaiJbeja, Centaurea, &c. — was more abundaut, aud
we found a small flock of sheep and goats, the Bedawi in
charge asking Cairo prices, $3.50 for a mere lamb.
From El-Muhtisir we entered the Wady el-Jfaka'dah that
leads to our destination. Now the light-red and dork-greeu
* " Jttdd ** wonid meaA land or palm-groToa worth ao mucL. " Jiiddah " u the
beftten part of a ronJ or u hif;h rond.
t Meaning •' the U-aiegcT," or one that sarrounds.
•
I
sides, often clift'y, of the great Wady are varied by grey granites
of fine and coarse elements, profusely streaked with white
quartzose veins; whilst the " liard heads " and bonlders, in and
near the bed, are weathered iiitoqimint shapes of skidls, human
and bestial. On the left bank whs El-Dabbah, a remarkable
rock, looking like a mined tower. We observed that the
hillocks beyond the right bank shoAved sundry onterops of
snowy quartz, and a lump rose in the valley-side aL»out an hour
from our destination. The Bedawin caU this rock Mani •
(• yxit hence the Jebel " Marwah," near Meccah, and the famous
old Marwah gold-mine, which we shall inspect at the end of the
journey. The whole formation, of which the Jebel el-Abyaz is
thepivot, must be wiled the Jibal el-Bayza (White Mountains).
The heat of the sim became troublesome, where the abrupt
bends and the long legs of the Wady excluded the sea-breeze
so pleasant near the mouth. The ride, however, was cheered by
the noble background of the jiicture, the Jebel Urnub.t This
sharp-edged main wall is cap2>ed with what w© called "the
Pinnacles," fiuger-liko projections, finials to a huge slab, with
an eastern face absolutely perpendicular, and measuring by the
eye at least 1000 feet. South of it appears a great nick, the
Wady Siniakh (of 8umach ?), with its huge valley seaming the
plain ; and yet farther south are " the Buttresses," three enor-
mous flying ares-boidanis, with capped heads like logan-stones ;
they seem to support tlie rampai-t, and make a splendid show.
The Wady was bare of grtiss, which does not begin to clothe the
ground till February. In one place the rain had formed a
Teinlet in the lowest part of the sole, and everywhere the sand
was damp a few feet below the surface. Uad I received the
Norton's Abyssinian pumps applied for at Cairo» wo doubtless
should have struck water; two pits (> feet deep yielded no
results, and yet in most Wadys a tenacious clay, well fitted for
building purposes, underlies the sands. After 4 hours' rido
(=12 stat. miles), we camped upon our old ground at the head of
the Wady el-Maka'dah, i:>U0-900 feet above sea-level, the mean
of 19 aner. obs. (Dee. 23-30) giving 29-10 for the alt. of the
camp. We are now on the north-eastern face of the Jebel
el-Aoyaz, or ** White Mountain," described in my first volume
• ♦* Mftrw " (Arabic and Poraian), according to the dictionary, is a spccioB of
hard white flint full of fire. The form " murnat " applies to a aingle piece ; it is
alao the name of u hill in Mecouh.
t All the Bedawin thoa pronamtce thia niune ; but it may be a oomiption.
Araab (wJ jU ^^ Arabic In a here or a loag-tail&d field-moiue: and these trivial
tonoB ore popularly appliwl to tlie largest natural fomif). So Camarones, " the
Shrimp tuounLain of old, tbo " Tbeon Oobetna," in West Africa.
12 BunTON'i Itinerarieji of the Second Erpedition into Midian,
(chftp, via.). Its distance from the port, with a most liberal
allowance, would not exceed 14 stat. miles.
We staved six days (December 24 to December 30, 1877),
at the Jebel el-Abyaz, and water was a serious difficalty for a
caravan numbering a hundred mouths, all included except the
mules. None was procurable nearer than the great Fiumara
Simakh ; an hour and a halfs march for camelB. The gorge
is called EI-Asaybah (a^^^U* ' the rhumbs to it from camp
were 120^ 90°, and 20°, with a short climb to 120'' (all mag.).
Under the circuriistauces the supply, merely raiu-water, was so
scarce that we could not wash our specimens before returning
to Wady Shiirma. Flocks of sheep and goats suggested that
there were pools or springs nearer camp ; but if so the secret
was well kept. At this season the Bedawin content tlvemselvea
with " Themail," temporary deposits formed by the showers ;
and, moreover^ like tiie North American " Indians " of the
Far West, they cunningly hide their treasure. The very
cljildren instinctively affect ignorance of water. The reader,
however, must not confound with the true Bedawin these ignoble
half-Fellahs, these ''jumpers of wulls" {Nuttdt el-Jtayt.)
The scarcity of water, so common in mining regions, should
present no difficulties at a distance of 14 miles from the sea.
The poorer ores i;ould be washed in situ by the criUes coiiiinv.es
a grilles jiltrantes (MM. Iluet et Geyler), which uses the same
fluid Hgain and again (pp. 3178—382 ' Geologie Appliouee,* by
M.Amedee Burat: Paris, Gamier, 1870); while t!ie richer, that
are worth transport, could be " tram'd " down to the sea.
The delay gave us time to correct the errors of our flying
visit, aud to collect the quantities of specimens required by
H. IL the Viceroy. The Jebel el-Abyaz, a saddle-back with
pommel and crupper disposed east-west, is 250 feet (not
metres), above our tents at tlie foot ; the anernid below, showed
29-10, and above, 28-85 (to 28-90), diff. 0-25. The vein of
orgeutiferou.i, cupriferous, and titaniferous iron, forming a con-
spicuous black notidi on the western side, does not bifurcate, as
we supposed, in the interior ; the fork which appears in the
hinder part is of green purjihyritic triip, heavy and also appa-
rently metalliferous, when in contact with the granite. Tnia
Grand Filon, as we had called it, was analysed at Cairo by
M. Gastinel-Bey ; and the results per cent., were —
(Titaniferoas) iron , 8G'50
Silica .. .. 10-10
Copper 3-40 (2 i percent)
And Bilver-p^, that is from 10^. 10«, to 12/. jwr ton.
* " IsuU,h," ia Arabic, would meou fiJUag a well or elstem.
I
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 13
The Jebel el-Abyaz, the type of the many detached forraa-
tioDs scattered over the slopes between the sea and the Ghats
(maritime mountains of Jlidian), k composed of coarse grey
granite, everywhere t-ut by jUons and filds, primary and
secondary, of amorphous quartz, with a brilliant snow-whit©
fracture, varying from a thread to many yards in thickness.
Standing upon tlie crest, which runs west-east and then
bends southwards^ you see five dykes or outcrops of dull-^reeii
porphyritic trap to the east and one to the west, cutthig right
through the hill from north to south ; and showing upon their
decayed crests concentric circles like ropy lava, Tlie sand-
stones of the middle height aro superficially revetted with
iron; and about the base fragments of hard felspathie stone
and lithographic culcaires are rich in dendrites.
The complication of the country is everywhere so great that
each day brought its novelty ; and months would be required
to exhaust the study. As the subject is rather geological and
mineralngical than geographical, I sliall not attempt a detailed
notice, but simply extract from my diary notices of the minerals
observed at the " White Mountain.*'
Christmas Day. — Carbonate of manganese ; quadrangular
crystals of carbonate of lime ; copper-ore from the hillocks to
north and south-east of camp.
Dec. 2Gth. — Ahmed El-'Ukbi brought in fine specimens of iron-
ore (hematite) from between the Jebel cl-Abyaz and the Wady
Gharr or Upper Wady Sharmn. M. Philipin also collected at
the head of the Wady Simukh a heavy» course, black sand, par-
tially crystalline with yellow-brown quartzose fragments. Our
engineer vaiidy attempted to analyse the metallic residue. We
aftenvards found it in almost every Fiumnnt-niouth, between
the coast-raage and the sea; and running north as far as El-
'Akabah, whilst, witli tew exceptions, all our washings of red
earth, chloritic sand and bruised conglomerate, supplied this
and nothing else. It is equally abundant, they say, in Africa,
opposite Arabia. We could only suspect that it was the produce
of the granites and syenites, especially the former. Colonel
W. A. lioss {author of ' I'yrology ) presently determined by the
magnet and blowpipe that the mineral is iserine, or magnetic
ilmonite (titauiferous ironsand), containing about 88 per
cent, of iron (magnetic and sewpiioxides), with 11 per cent,
titanic acid. Other assaycrs have susjyected a trace of lead.
Dec. 21th was a day of discovery. We all mounted mule to
inspect the site whence some specimens of pavonine quartz ha<l
come into camp. Following the Wady 'Efriya (\j Jlc)* roun-i
• " Ifnynlj ' means a lioa'a mane, a cock'a hackles, or o bad violent man.
14 BuKToyi^slttneranesqfthe
Expedition into
tbe north and east of tlie Jebel el-Abyaz, and leavinj? to the
left the Jebelayn, or " twin-peaks " of grey quartz, which bear
from the pivot 71* and 96'^ (™ag.), we fell into the great Wady
Siniakb, that drains the gap or cut between "the Pinnacles '
and " the Buttresses " of the Urnub Kange. After riding some
2 miles to the south-east (123''-129° mag.) wo hit upon two
wall-like fragments of dark, dusty, iridescent and metallic
quartz, emerging from the plain, and bearing 324*^ from each
other, that is north-south — an important point according to
some miners — with 3G^ of westing. The dip was western,
15°-20°. These are the conditions whinli, I believe, Australia
loves, and which enabled Ballarat to make her fortune. The
veins break out of the normal grey granite dyked by porphyry ;
and even superficial specimens show a fine coppery and pavo-
nine lustre. Half a mile beyond it lie two other Jiloris, the last
bearing 307"^ from the Jebel el-Abyaz, 317^ from the two wall-
like fragments, and 224'^ from the Jebelayn (ull mag.). These
outcrops suggest that the whole plain is xmderlaid by qiiartzose
dykes and veins. On fiur returu to Sharma, M. Marie took from
one of the geodes a pinch of dust weighing about half a gramme
( = 7| grains), and cupelled a bright pin's-head not less than
two centigrammes. Incontinently pronounced to be silver, it
might have been antimony or some similar base metal. On
the other hand, the silver discovered in the Grand Filon by so
careful an experimenter as Grastinel-Bey ; and the fact that we
are here on im same line of outcrop, and at a horizon at least
."jOO feet lower, are distinctly reassuring. These considerations
induced me to call the vein Filon Husntjn, after the Prince who
had 80 greatly favoured the Expedition.
At this centre wo had apparently hit upon the Negros, or
quartzose formations in which silver appears as a sulphure;
and in the geodes we had found the Colorado^, or argillaceous
deposits that produce the metal in the form of chlorure,
bromure and iodure. Such is the distribution of silver in
Mexico, according to M. Guillemin, C.E., in his comfte rendu to
the Exposition of 18(57.* The former is everywhere found in
Midian, but it would require shaft-sinking for several hundreds
of feet. Here and there the accidental exposure of the veins
at a plane far lower than our means and appliances could
roach, showed the extent and quality of the outcrop. Below
the iridescent rock I should expect to find virgin silver in the
* This u qaotcd (p. 229) by M. Ame'dee Barat (sklreody noticed) : the latter,
however, places Mexico in FAmMque du Sud. The voluuo is n uaefal vade-
mecnm, although old-fushioiuMj, and even obsolete, in ccrtmn detail^ For
inst&QOe, Uie " frust of the tiirlh ;" Iho great " oontrul fire ;" and the gmnitcfl
bcin;;: the base upon which the stratft were Inid down ; consequently, the earliest
o£ ali rocks, whea la many pkccd they are the laost modem.
BcrTON'* Itinerartes of the Second Expedition into Midian, 15
arborescent shape. Above its level, as on the summit of the
Jebel el-Abyaz and generally in the "Mani" hills and hillocks
of Midian, the quartz is comparatively barren, showing gpecks
of copper, crystala of iron pyrites in little blocks, and dark
dots of various metals that still await tinulysis,
Dec. ISih. — MM. Marie, Clarke, and Philipin rode on drome»
daries 10 miles north to near the foot of the Jebel Zahd; the
only ores brought back wero iron and nianj^anese.
I at once suspected and afterwards ascertained that the
quartz of the Jibal el-Bay24, the collective name of this out-
crop, is not a local peculiarity, but that it eYsrywbore bursts
the maritime plain and the foothills of the Ghats or coast-
range. And here we have a solid square of 12 (4 x 3) miles,
where the quartz appears in hills and hillocks, whilst the plain
is probably underlaid by veiuH and veinlets of tlie same metal.
The "Mani" accompanied lis to oiir farthermost southern
point, where we found undoubted proofs that the iridescent
variety had been carefully worked by the old miners.
The health of the Expedition became seriously affected by
tent-life; by the variations of temperature, ranging between
92^^ during daytime and 45'' (F.) at night, GO'' being often a
piercing cold in the desert; by the excessive diyneas of
800-900 feet above sea-level ; and, perhaps, by the water
charged with mineral matter. The officers who visited the
Wadys at the foot of the main chain complained of being
frozen when exposed to the wild gusts which poured down the
gullies. As soon, therefore, as we had finished collecting
specimens (Im. 50x2m. xlm. = 4 tons) from the Jebel
el-Abyaz, and the same quantity from the Fihii Htisayn, we
left this tine mineral tract. We reached the mouth of the
fcjharma Valley on December 30.
The Expedition remained at SharraA during the week ending
with January 7, 1878. Our work chiefly consisted of washing
the black, red and yellow sands in a rough trough; camels
were sent to bring down the metal from the Jebel el-Abyaz ;
and we made frequent excursions into the interior, everywhere
finding »i«fjr)-o-quartz and traces of copper, raw aud worked.
On New Year's Day Lieut. Amir, with our guide Shaykh
Furayj and some soldiers and quarrymen as escort, set out on
dromedaries to survey the line of route abutting upon a mountain
of "Marii" (quartz), of which we had heard at the Jebel el-
Abyaz. The way ran to the south of the swamp that forms
the Sharma "Bab," and the Wady proved to have four distinct
names: Sbarmd, near the sea; Gharr or Ghurr,* ( ^) also
•
16 Bdbton'j Itinerariet of the Second Expedition into Midtan,
el-Daum from itg "Theban palms," on the meridian of tlie
Wbite Mountain, and Uraub (of the hare?), where the pin-
nacled and buttressed ranges allow it passage; while the whole
is called El-'Arar, after a sub-tribe of tlie Beni 'Ukbah, its
former owners.* Higher still, the Fiumara becomea the
Wady el-'Ahx3 ( ^£J^^:)' ^''^^ under this name drains the hills
below the western Hisma (\ ^ .^ . ^ ) : it ie then a mere gorge
with ronds-points — wide bulgings in the bed.
Travelling 7 hours at the rate of 3 miles each, with a long
leg in an eastern direction, Lieut. Amir and his men camped,
about 4 P.M., in a Fiumara, the Sayl Wady Nakhlah. The
upper bed is said to boast of palms, thorn-trees, and grass ;
tlie little party had water in barrels, but they were incom-
moded, despite a largo lire, by tlio intense and bitter cold,
while the boisterous wind blow down their tent. Five hours'
niareh on the next day Hnished the mountain-j>ass ; and, turn-
ing to the E.S.E., the path placed them at El-Jalid (of ''strug-
gling," of "overloading"! where stood their destination, the
"Maru." This was a solitary long-oval, four or five times
larger than the Jebel el-Abyaz ; audi of the same formation, as
the speeimens of quartz and grey granite showed. It had
a broken outline, with four great steps or dykes which had
apparently been worked. Here tire inland parallel range was
seen for the first time. Tbe Bedawiu as well as the citizens
make a distinction between the .Fibal el-Tihamah, the splendid
range towering above the coast ; and the Jibdl el-Shafah
(ao * )t or Lip Mountains — not El-Shifah ( "Ili *.) of healing
— which lie behind and east of them. In the valleys at the
base, and spread over tlie land general ly, was found a heavy
yellow sand, calcareous and full of silex, which the people
called "Awwal Hisma," or the beginning of thellisma. This
discovery prolongs the visible quartz formation to 2^25 direct
miles soutli-east of the main outcrop.
flaring cut their shoes in securing specimens, the party
remounted ; and, taking a Hue parallel to the furraer march,
more southerly and more direct, they rode in two hours and a
half to a Bughoz or ("gap") called El-IIallikah.t the Huleika
of Walliii's map. Here water was wanting, and all went
supperless to roost. In the Wady Urnub the Ma azah, of the
♦ See cbap, vi. of my vol. iL
t Alwayu i»o jironouurud : in classical Arabic Slufab (plur. Slu'ftlb) w a, lip,
Sliifa ih healing;, im«l Hliifii'flli iotcrcossion.
J "Halik" Jtiny Ik- ili-rivod froiu " H;ilk," tlie natno of a moilicinBl tree, or
fix)ai " Hulk," the fauces, uarrowa. " Uulujluih " vrowU lio tlic tlini. form.
Bdrton'^ Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 17
clan Salfmat, received the (strangers with outward kindness,
inwardly grumbling at their spying the land; and especially
welcomed Shaykli Furayj, who, being a brave soldier, is alsn
noted as a peace-maker. All the men were armed like, aud
wore the same dress as, the Hiiwaytat; also breeding camels
and asses, they are not "Cow- Arabs."
About three hours (=11 miles) from Sharma camp the
guide pointed out in the Wady Kiitiyah some pyramids of
sand: the Bedawin call them Goz el-hannan (meaning butte)*
and declare that wht-u the Hay caravan posses, or rather used
to pass that way before a,d. 1520, a Naubah or orchestra would
sound loud within its bowels: the same is said tjf other plf.c^i,
especially of a stony buttress near the glorious .Sharr. The
legend remiuds us of the Jobel el-Nakus or BeU-Mountain in
the Sinaitic peninsula; not to mention the roaring of ihc Irish
Lia Fail ("' Stone of Destiny "); the Reg-i-rowan of Afghanistan ;
and many similar phenomena. As the Arabs perform vi.sjtation
and sacrifice lambs to the '* Moaning-heap,' the superstition
probably dates from ancient and pagan times.f Ruins are
reported to exist on the Jebel-Fas (of the hatchet), the southern
boundary of the Uruub Valley ; and I was told by some Arab,
whose name has escaped me, of a dolmen, mounted upon three
supports, lying farther south, on the Jebel el-Harb. Ijirut.
Amir also brought copper-ore from the Wady Urnub ; and
from the Ras Wady el-Mukhbir specimens of a metal which
the Arabs declare serves them as kohl, stibium or collyrium.
It proved to be not antimtvny but iron. The latter is every-
where abundant, despite the tradition of the classics ;J even the
carbonate of lime was found, here and elsewhere, inriltrated
with carbonate of iron.
At Sharmd I resolved upon dividing the camp ; and leaving
there Lieut. Yusuf, MM. Duguid and I'hilipin, the dragoman
and the waiter. Tho quarrymen and miners were charged
with washing the several earths and sands, with hunting for
specimens, and with transporting sundry tons of the black sand
to the Sambuk stationed at the Musuybat Sharma. This done,
they were to rejoin us at the next pilgrim station, Maghair
Shu'ayb.
Jamuity 7th, 1878. — A walk of 2 hours 40 minutes (=7 miles)
northwards, by the Hajj road, and mostly along the shores of
the glorious bay,§ transferred us to well-remembered 'Ayuimah.
* " Eanz." here pronounced goz, ia a round hoap, Iiiil or high tract of sand,
t See my toI. i. p. 182, for the heathen ftme and its healing waters,
i Vol. i. p. 258, note J.
§ Borckhardtand Riippell, in part followod by Beke (' Sinni in Arabia.' London :
Triibner, 1878), wxito Aiyiinali, Aiuno and Ayoun, idl iiici.rrect. The 'Sailing
VOL. XLIX. C
18 Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Ejrjieditton into ]\Iidtan.
In places tlie sea wAahed over slabs of the fine old conglomerates
whicli, in this country, line the jawfi and solos, the banks and
sides, of all the greater Wndys : it is the Portuguese CascaJho,
a puddinp; of pebbles, M'ater-rolled stones of eveiy size tmd
kind, basalt alone excepted, compacted by a hard silicious
paste, which is, in the Brazil, pounded for met«l. In front ex-
tended far ijito the blue sea a long yellow point, Ras Jiyal
or "circumambnlation" ( Vl^^.), pronounced "Giyal," where
we heard of palms and brftckish water. It was afterwards
visited by Lieut. Yusnf. W*^ then turned to the right, crossed
the dark-brown foot-hills of the ttid coast, and presently saw
the grey-green palms, and the " gate " of 'Ayminah, light
yellow with corallinp. The whole distance from El-Muwaylali
to 'Ayminah is covered by tho llnj^j-caravan at one heat in
12 hours : the pilgrims start about 2 P.M., and they reach the
camping-ground early next morning.
Jan. iifh. — We gave one day to working and inspecling a vein,
Jebel el-Fayniz ("turquoise hill"), us the Arabs ciilled it; of
whose copper silicates, promising specimens were brought by a
Bedawi, 'Ayd of the Tagaygut-Huwaytat clan. Ahmed Kaplan
presently visited it, and found the site 3 miles from camp, and
bearing 102° (mag.). He crossed the Uram Niriin Valley,
the general recipient of Nulhihs on this line, and made three
legs, 1, to 135° (1 mile); 2, to ISU" (imile); and 3, to 145"
(Ih mile), ending at the site called Jebel el-Fara' ("of
climbing "). This hill, bearing the chr}'socol]a,* is bounded
southwards by the Wady el-Fara', and north by the
Wadya Marikhah f and Umm Niran. It is an oval about
120 feet high, and 1920 yards in diameter from N.N.w. to
8.S.E. I afterwards despatched Lieut. Yusuf to make a detailed
survey of the spot ; and otlier particulars will be given
further on.
Jan. 0th. — We left 'Ayminah at 6.45 A,Br. by the Hajj route
winding between the old sea-cliffs and the shore. After one hour
(=3 miles) we took a short cut, turning to the right up the
Wady el-Mukhassib (i»-v»iaj^-c) (" the fruitful or rich "), whose
few yards of *' wa'r," or strong ground, render it unfit for the
Directionfi of tlie Rod Sea* (p. 136). repetkting Welletcd, gives the right deUila.
X>r. Beke'a idiclek (p. 327 j makes the tenU far t«) urorninint a feature . and dws
not pre»erve the chanictoristic formB of iLe moantuiiis in tlie ijnokpoiniJ.
* The chr^aocoUa of tho ancieuta is, striotty BjiettkiDg, a airlxiautc (not a
eiljeate) of copper.
t "Markb. here ffeneially pronounceii mardhli, is given in tlio dictionaries
as s " kind of Arabian tico Vhicb emita fire vhea rubbod by another, called
•attr."
Burton^** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
Takhtrawan (" litter ") and heavily-laden animals. Ou the left
stands the quarry-hill of the some name, and further north its
" hamirah/' or red attachment. Higher up, the gorge is of
loose sand; the walls are grey granite and green porphyritic
trap ; and water must be near, as we found Arab tents at the
head. \\c then issued into the open, and came upon tLo
great caravan track, which, running in a general north direction,
is distinctively marked by wavy parallel lines of white sand in
the brown-black metal overlying it.
The view was now familiar. Fronting us the northern horizon
disclosed the wcll^remembered forms of fayyib Ism* ("good in
.Dame "), backed by the far grander Mazhafen.t rising abrupt from
[the Gulf of 'Akabah, and both trending inland towards their
lighest points. This mountain apparently is llie Jebel Suwckhed
f Dr. Beke's map. To the north he places a Jebel Tannin, whose
le was not heard ; it belongs to the days of Robinson, and
the caiion-like gulch identifies it with the Jebel Tayyib Ism
of the Arabs.l On our right swelled the unnicturesque
Ljnetalliferous heap of chocolate-coloured Jebel Zahd ('• of devo-
"tion "), whose " nick," or Brcche de Roland, seems to show from
every angle. Behind it, the second distance consists of some
pale-blue forms, the Jebel cl-Lauz (Almond Mountain), evidently
the "Tayyibat Ism" of the Admiralty Chart: it is said to take
its name from the trees growing, we were told, high up in the
'clefts and valleys ; § they are probably bitter, like those which
flourish in iroal> and at 8t. Catherine's, 8inai. Between the
Lauz and the Jebel Muniah (" the exalted "), its northern pro-
llongation, is the Sha'ab Ilurub (,__»-^_), where the clan
Amirat (sing. Amf rf) camps and finds water some 2 hours' march
from the road. The regular cone, El Makla (^Lii^), ends
the prospect to the north-east — I could not find the meaning
of the word. || To the west, marked by the chaos of mountains
composing Sinai, rose the azure middle knob of thrco-hea<led
"Tayyibiit Ism " in my first volume was a mistoke : purists, like mir friend
»Fhnykl] Furayj, avoid it. Tht^rc is n Nakb-Tayyibat el-Ism fnrtlier south, and in
I -the fiuLityrah province of Egypt Lt u. hill ;and villago ?) entitlud Tayyibut el-Ism,
fiom ita cxoellont air.
t Probably ao-called because it "yazhaf" ((..ji^-jj), i.e. advances gradually
ftipon the sen.
X Pee vol. i. p. 329.
§ Conceniiiig thaao nlmonda, sec 'Notea on a Collection of PInuta trnnsmittiHl
Pby Lieut. J. 11. WelUtwi' By John Liudley, E*i., r.^.^., &c. Appendix,
vol. ii., Wellstcd'a 'Travels in Arabia.'
I Makli (^ULo ) ligulflca the rougel, harhone, or red mullet.
c 2
20 Bdrton'j Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian,
Tiran IjilanJ ; the broken crests of the " Ked Hills " behind
Makna, and the dark peaks of the Kalb (t^^Jj) el-Nakhlah :
the two latter look like reefs or islands of blitck and purple
hue swimming in a eea of gref-nish-yellow secondaries, earbo-
natps and sulphates of lime, t^ypsum and coralline.
Passing El-8uwayr ("the Httle wall"), a flat where canap the
Magtirabi pilgrims, we entered the Wady el-5Iarakh, one of the
many of that name, derived from a plant loved by camels This
watercourse is an old friend that drains the seaward face of
El-Zahd, or 'Ayniinah Mountain, and whit'h joins the Finmara
of Magliair Shu'ayb. The mules' hoofs, piercing the supertieial
sand, showed bri«;ht red earth, which is supposed to come from
the Hisma, We saw on the left a knot of low ruddy hills, the
Turab el-'Usaylah (a\_^.^.j-.).* It is so-called from a ghadirf
" hollow," where the sinking of water produces a bald ppot,
circled by shnihhy trees, suhcutaceous and metal-green, eaten
by camels but rejected by our mules. Here, again, where
muddy patches curb the ground, the pump would have done
good service. For this Ijalf-niarch of 4 hours ( = 11 stat. miles) we
cari'ied water, and as there was no drink, so there was no game.
Jan. lOih. — At 6.15 a.m. we attacked the last and lonper
part of the second Hajj stage from E!-Muwaylali. Crf)S.«ing the
Wady El-Koz after 1 h. 15. m. (=*^| miles), we passed on the left
a low, chocolate-coloured block, Umm Kujaym ("mother of the
little stone-heap"), which is the true half-way station. Our
Arabs, bent upon converting a two days' march into tliree days'
work, punished us by grazing their camels on the road, and by
not arriving till the evening. As before, there was no pame till
we approacheil the springs, but a clump of large tamarisks and
iv&ks {Oa2)fans spinosa) on the right, and a huge sainur acacia
(luffa uriffvig, Forsk.) on the left, looked well ciipable of shel-
tering it. We now began clearly to see our destination, palms
and tufty trees at the mouth of a masked Wady running between
a background of reddish-brown rock, the foot-hilts and sub-
ranges of the grand block El-Zatiah (jj\^, ''of the camcFs
nosebag ") to the north, and a foreground of pale-yelh>w,
barren gypsum, apparently tongue-shaped. Above the latter
towered two quoins of ruddy material, '' El-Shigdawayn '' f
(/j->5fcX:5^^)» which others called " Umm Jarfayn."
• 'Asul in lilt iliclioimrteB ia explninetl aa a tree wLich purgeF cnmels, the
rho<l<i<1aphno liiurt'l roae, oI<jander). ForskSI ('Flora JEgyjito-Arab.,' pj). cxiv.
and llOj applii tt it to tlj<^ Ocymujn MrpyUifiAium.
t TLt> siligiikr ojijit'toni to be S'higd, •jnonjnMma with "Sliilik " (j_jLi fiMure,
Hl'utonV Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 21
After ail bout's halt iu a cool breeze under a thorny tree, we
pnsaud the Ghadir, or bas'm, El-Nukrab (^ Jjj), " the hollow ").
Resembling that of El-'Usavlub, it is one of tlif round sinks so
coniuiuu ill Arabia, with a bright green growth of grass and
ehrubs springing from a soil superficially red. Thence, leaving
on the left the TJmm Gaf4 ('ui}), the " Mother of the Neck-
nape"),* a tall cliff of dull brown, with a white gypseous scar
uiKjn the cheek, we fell into the Wady 'Afal (*■ of the rupture " ?).
This is the Fiumara of Maghair .Siui'uyb, which rolls a torrent
once iu every ten years or so to tlie sea between Ras Jiyal and
'Ayuiiiidh Bay. At the mouth is the M'inat El-'Ay'anat
(cjULj:» " of the look-out "). This little i)ort for " Sambiiks,"
was afterwards surveyed by Lieut, Yusuf. We hit it at a bend
some 220 yards wide, called Ariz ( ^ ^) el-Sidrah, or
"Broad of the Jujube," from one of the splendid secular trees
which characterise tliis part of Midian.
Uere we found both banks of the Fiumara lined with courses
of rough stone, mostly rounded boulders. These arc evidently
the ruins of the water conduits whiob served to feed the ricn
growth of the lower valley. Then the vegetation of the gorge-
mouth developed itsolf to date-trees aud dauma, tamarisks, and
salsolacete, especially the 'Abal-bush, out of whieli scuttled a
troop of startled gazelles. We turned the right-hand jamb of
the "gate," and found ourselves at the water and camping-
ground of Maghair Shu'ayb. The march had occupied tl hours,
wljikt tlie caravan took t*^, and we set down the distance at 18
miles (sUit.) or 29 IVom 'Aymiiiah.
The ancient Ptoli'meiau cltv of MaSi'a/ia belongs rather to
the domain of architecture and archa?ology than of geography ;
and I have elsewhere published a full description of the ruins.f
It is described by Kiippell (Dr. Eduitrd) * Reisen in Nubien' &c.,
Frankfurt am Muin, 1?<29. He gives it, however, only a couple
of pages (pp. 219, 387), and an illustnttion of two catacomb
facades (p. 220). The true latitude would be 28^ 28', and thus
the old Alexandrian geographer is not far wrong with hts
28' 15'. As regards the name Miigliair, "caves," i.e. catacombs
of Shu'ayb, i.e. Jethro; it must not be put in the singular
^roviee, alsio the must piTHiiineiit purt of n mountain) ; the thial would be '' Bhik-
kayo," but the BecLiwin convert it to 8bigdaWBya. Such, ut luoiit, iu tUe only
cxplaoatioQ whlclt I could ubLuiu. Uuuu Jarfaya would meao " mother of tho
two ledges.'*
* A name p\7en to tiilla and mouutaina with loDg aloping baclu.
^ Vol. ii. chap. lii.
22 Burton'* Itineraries of t fie Second Expedition into Midian.
" Urajrliarut ; " * nor is there any cave in which that holy man
who, l3eda\vi-like, had his beat between 3Iakua and this place,
was wont to pray. Tiie oataeombs are also called in local dialect
Bihiin, or " doors." Wellsted ('Arabia,' vol. ii. p. 123) hud not
visited the place when he wrote " at Maiuirehi Shoaib, and at
Beden, the former estimated at oj, the latter 7^ hours' journey
(from Makna), there are other ruins," Beden (an " ibex ") is an
error originally made by Eiippell for Ead'a, an " innovation," a
"novelty," because a Maglirabi pilgrim here dug a now well.
Wady el-Bad'a ( -, ^xj ) is the name of the short section of the
Wady 'Afdl occupied by the palm-groves. The Jihan-numa
(p. 541) of Haji Khalifah, a^/'fus liatib Chelebj, who died in a.H.
1068 = A.D. 1658, thus notices it: " Maghair Shu'aylt.f There
is sweet water in its pits, a palm-grove, and many athl (tamar-
isks) and mukl, or daum-trees, like those that grow near the
River Nile, There are here also inscribed tablets (Kmvtmt =
tdkak) on which the names of kinps are engraved." +
The ruins of Bladiama mav be aivided into four main blocks,
two on each side of the I^^iumara. Uppermost, on the left
bank, appears to be a fortified hauteviUe on the Jebel el-Safrd,§
a double tjuoiu of coralline and gypsum striking to the north.
Before the western ilank wixs brf>ken down by time, tho
buildings, as in the Syrian town of Safct, ran up the slope,
forming steps, descended the now precipitous eastern flank, and
covered the gorge between the " Yellow Hill " and its neighbour.
Foundations of houses run along the low level of the left bank
for about jfrds of a mile ; a number of yawning graves are sunk
in the gypsum, and the remains include furnaces and a smelting
place. The only sign of st^mding buildings — all the rest being
mere basements — are a lloslem fort, two largo Sdkiyahs (or
•* draw wells "), a conduit of coarse grit, and a fine Hauz
("cistern") of cut sandstone. The group is called Bir el-
Sa'fdani, from its builder; and the tradition of the Arabs, here
very much at fault, tleclares this to be the old original settle-
ment, before the " innovating " spring Avas discovered by the
Maghrabi magician.
On the right " Jarf," or raised bank of the valley, are the
foundations of a large town, built mostly of gypsum, which has
turned snow-white with age. Hence scattered ruin-heaps run
* This iniEtiLke has hvcu niado throughout my firet voluiae, and it ia copied In
Dr. Beie's * Sinai in Arabia.'
t See ' Haji Khalifah's Roate of the Pilgrims,' at the end of thi« paper.
i Oiily three of tbo oatacombB bore i1l^<(.■ription8, vliioh appeared to be Nabat
(NuhathicaD) : sqoeezGa wcro uiadi- from boUi.
§ Thia in the general native name for the tight yt'Ilow coralline and g3fpBiun :
opposed to the Jlamni or UamimL, the re<i porphyries, syenltea and Iropu.
i Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 23
some 2 miles down strejtm. They are isolated by the lateral
txirrenta which, no longer under man's control, swoop down to
the main Wady 'Afal. In the hollows formed by the vagaries
of the bed antiquities are sometimes picked upj stone weapons,
coins of gold, silver and copper, bits of metal, steatite pots,
mortars, grinding stones, glass and pottery, beads and similar
articles. The three lateral gullies which fall into the right
bunk contain tho catacoiabs that have given the place its
modern name — tiiey were first visited by Kiippell (1822). The
** Tombs of the Kings " * are in No. 111. valley ; above it is the
diff-top called the " Traying-place of 8hu'ayb." Here the
aneroid (corrected) stood at 28'94, while it was 29'40 below,
(diff. 0-4G0). Yubu* island bore 173' and Shu'shii' 19G° 30',
•while the campiug ground lay at 45" 30' (all magnetic). In a
fourth gully, somewhat further down, are specimens of inferior
art in a ruinous state.
III. From Maghdir ShiCayh to Makna. — During our fortnight's
halt at Slaghair 8hu'ayb we failed to make arrangements for
viaiting the Hisiua ; but reeonnaissixncea were pushed to the
neighbouring mountains. On Jauiiury 17, the Egyptian Staff-
officers rode up the Wady 'Afal aud, within a distance of 3 miles,
they found two mining establishments. The broken white
quartz, scattered round the furnace, argued that the rock could
not be far distant. On Monday, January 21, M. Marie and
Lieutenant Amir set out to explore a '* White Mountain " of
which I had heard chance reports. Leaving the Wady 'Afal to
the right or o^st, they skirted to the left, after 1 mile, the Jebel
ol-fc>al'ra. or (northcru) ''gypsum mountaiu," which bisects the bed
of the Wady Makna ; and fur 2 miles they struck northwards
with 5" of westing (mag.) up the Wady el-Kharik ( . o »ik.}.t
whose bed had already begun to bcEir grass. The route then
ascended the Wady iSabil ("of the path"), a Fiumara about
one-tliinl of a mile broad, bounded by low hills : after a total
of 3 miles large rocks appeared on tho left bank ; the Samur
thorn bcciiiue common, and the herbaceous growth more luxu-
riant. Alter lialf a mile riding to 345" (mag.) they changed
rhumb to 5' west (mag.), where small hills again bounded the
Wady. Presently (1^ mile) the Wady Umm 'Arkubt {^^^ ^ ' )
— • V-- ' ,
• The nnme ia oar own. For u description of Ihem aee ' The Land of Slidion
(Reviaitt'd;,' vol. i. rhnp. iii.
t '* Kbarit " in Arabic is a word of mnny m«ining8 — " loTel g^roimd growing
Tegetation :'' a " cold wind,'' a " slinllow canal amongst trees," and "thcextmrnity
of a Talley opening out."
J A narrow mountain-pass, or n track winding through a valley. The cliuiHical
form in " 'Urkub," and its general me-aning id tho Tendon Achillea.
24 BtTBTOn's Itineraries of the Second Erpedition into Midian.
fell ill from the east ; and opposite to it, or westward, the Wady
Sabil forked. Another mile and a third ended the latter ; and
the travellers attacked the divide over the Jibal el-Sabil.
Crossing a small watert'ourse trending east-west, they entered
a plain bounded by the Jibdl el-Kuraybeh ( a . > s^). *' of
ploughed land " ; * and, after { a mile bending west (mag.),
they entered an ugly Nakb or rocky pass, running, with many
angles and zigzags, due north for about a 1| mile. On this
line there is no other road ; camels can manage it only with
half-loads; and even mules found it difficult. U'Jie gut abutted
upon the Wady Murakh (or Marakh) ; this Nullah runs from
north-east to south-west, and falls into the 'Akabah Gulf near
the well-known mountain, Tayyib Ism. The line is easier;
and, when the White Mountain comes to be worked from Makna,
there will be fewer diflficulties of transport. After \ of a mile
the direction changed to north-east (60' mag.); and after
another mile, making a total of 9 miles (3 hours) in a general
northern direction, tbey came upon the wis^hed-for " Mount
Marii." It was backed by the tall, dark and dome-shajied Jebel
Zanah ( jij\^) the " Dhana " which, together with the " Djebel
Hesma," were seen by Burckhardt as he travelled down the
Wa-ly 'Arabah en route to Suez. Nearly visible from Maghair
Shu'ayb, thia remarkable block appeared to me the tallest that
we had yet seen : with its eastern prolongation the Lauz, it
is probably the "Tayyibat Ism" of the Admiralty Chart.
About 10^ (mag.) west, near the Sharaf Taur t el-Hisma (the
height of the inaccessible side of the Hismd), stood the Jebel
el-Muk. Thus they had crossed three several ranges; the
Sabil, the Kuraybah and the Murakh, all outliers of tlie great
2<auab.
'J'he Wddya—Jtuvii fluvia geniti — already waxing green,
supplied a quantity of trees, shrubs, and plants. Two are not
eaten by camels : —
1. El-Kay il ( Ij ) or Hay I {Mrua Javanica).
2. El-Mashtah (aU * ^), the "Comb" (Oleome ckrysantha),
whose juice is applied to snake-bites.
The 18 cliief kinds, mostly perennials, and all used as fodder,
are: —
• Others railed it Kabaydah (af the " little liver ").
t TLia word (jfcj) ia generally known in the souao indlcalcd. The root
vouM bo Tarn = "it Lccamo roiscrl nr Bprend,"
J
Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 25
1. El-Lussak ( "\^J) or Caidheja adherens (For$Jc<ilia Una-
eissima, Linu.); not to bo confounded with El-Lusaf f^^^a-^J),
the only plant {Cajmiris spinosa) whose fleshy leiives in bright-
green tufts veil theuald and ghastly gypsum, 1 brought home
speciinena of its gourd-like fruit and its fat foliage.
2. Abu (or E1-) Zafrah (^v jilj) ; in the dictionaries it is ex-
J)lalned aa a ** biting plant, good for warts and ulcers." Here it ia
Iphiona scabra.
3. El-'Aushaz (♦*4x.)i properly written *Auaaj (Lycium
Europeeum).
4. El-Natash.
6. El-Sill ( L^) ; in the dictionaries the " name of a herb.**
6. El-Zanaban (Reseda eati^eena).
7. El-Girzi ( ^s ysJ > *^^ "Gurdhi shrub— a Resedaeea
(pchradsfiushaccJiah's)" of Schweinfurth{?) and the * Athenaeum,'
July 6, 1878.
8. El-Bayaz (^L>).
9. El-Shauk ( :^ ), a generic term for thistles, applied
especially to the Shauk el-Jemel or camel-thorn {Blepharis
&ialis, the Echinops sphairocephahs of Forsk.).
10. El-Siyal ; tne well-known Acacia Siyal.
11. El-Shnuhat (\^^ . A 1. " a tree whence bows are made,"
often mistaken by us for the 'Arak (Capparis).
12. El-Yesar or Yesur [Moringa. aptera), a tree resembling
the athl or tamarisk.
13. El-Warak.
11. El-Zaytah (jcj* )> a iavantJuZa, with pretty blue flower,
giving no sign of oil (Zayt).
15. Kabul ( V> V* Ptdicaria undulata, a clirysanthemum
with a yellow flower, much relished by camels both in Egypt
and in Midiun. I carried back four bottles full, two preserved
iu oil, with the hope of bringing out an "■ Essence of Midian."
16. El-Sakrau l^\ Xij\, or Saykrau / \ C^ ,). said to in-
* Fi>rbk4rs * Fion ^gypto-Arab„' p. IxxiT., girOB Babad .Xji = -OupA^almum
grateolen*.
26 BtntTON'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
toxicate thoso who eat it; the JJyoscyamus ^tuiUtta of L.
I crmlil not 8oe the flower. In Efrypt the word is applied to
the Phjsalis somnifera ; in Ambia to the Ht/oscyamus datura.
The word is identical with tlie Sekheraa (a kind of mallow),
noted by Professor I'alnier in the ' Sinaitic Teninsula ' (vol, i.
p. 23) : this certainly would have nothing intoxicating in it
save the name.
17. El-Kaysaniyyeh ( . -''Lry*,)- 'ised by women as a yellow
dye for woollen stuffs ; and
18, El-Kallum ( Jjj), a prime favourite with camels.
The " White Mountain " under Zaiiah, risinp; about 1000 feet
above S. L., and 100 over its surrounding valleys, commands a
fine view of the sea as far as 'Ayniiiiah. It is a long oval witli
the major axis disposed to ISfj" (mag.) : the circumforenco may
be 400 feet, and the regularity of its contour is broken to the
1
south. The surrounding
ts and Wadys, often glittering
with mica, contain smaller veins : the travellers brought home
specimens of orthose adhering to quartz and mica, flashing in^
tne sun, from the eastern side of the Wliite Mountain. The.
quartz was sparkling and snowy, like that about Sharm^ ; the
country, however, 8U|q)lit'8 all kinds of varieties, waxy, amor-
phous, crystalline, opatjue aud hyaline, amethystine, smoky and
ribbed (jjetrosilex) ; heut-altered and chalky, pink, yellow, and
slate-coloured; one piece showed a curious tranBitimi from the
opaque to the transparent " rock crystal," easily mistaken for^
glass. The engineer thought that this time he had struck
gold ; aud a speck was the result of using mercury. But I
was haunted with fear aud dread of the pyrites, or " crow gold,"
which hns played so many notable tricks on travellers ; and,
after a few days, the ttirnishing of the speck justified my
suspicions.
At Maghair Shu'ayb the camp had been much exercised by
Bedawiu reports of the Avondere ibimd in the lands to the north
and the north-east. On January 24 I ordered a Tuyyiirah, or
flying-coravan uf dromedaries, guided by 'Bmhiui bin IVIakbiU,
the Amrani-Huwaytdt, who had come into camp \vith his brother
Khizr, chief Sluiykh of the clan. Mr. Clarke and the two
Staff-lieutenants were directed to ride to El-Kijm (the " stone-
heap"), the next station of the pilgrim-ciiravan ; and to bring
k sKetohes of a Hajar Jfasdud * (a " stone set in anotLor ") from
baok:
the Wady Zarafah (^j^ «s)» ^^'^ *^^ •*• tablet adorned with a
dragon and other animals. Starting at 7.45 a.m., they rode up
Literally, " shut, corke<l, plugged."
Burton's Itineraries of the SccoTtd Expedition into Midian. 27
u
the Wady 'Afal, passing, after 3 miles, the furnace and the two
t3 uf ruins before mentioned, and covering a total of G miles
1 hour 45 minutes. This was not fast work ; the Bedawin
object to pushing their dromedaries beyond 'A^-A miles an hoar
during the starving season ; and they are right : I have seen
many falls, the result of mero weakness after trotting a few yards.
Red conglomerate appeared on both sides of tho bod. The
travellers passed the Wady el-Tawileh (" Long Vale ") on the
right hand; and at 9.i3L) a.m. tliey came upon the ruins of a
boulder-built atelier, with what appeared to be a Burj (•' tower "),
and a Fiskiyydh (" tank ") called " IgAr Muds " ( \ ^ L?;^).
After the delay necessary for sketching and surveying, the
party remoimted, and rode up the Wady, bending from north-
east to north : at 10.50 a.m. they reached the mouth of the
Wady Kuliil, where the aneroid showed an altitude of 1*200
feet (28-80). They had now made 10;} miles (Mr. Clarke
boldly said 12) in 3 hours, halts not included ; and they were
unpleasantly surprised when asked '* why they had not brought
their tents ? " It was then explained to them that they were
still one hour short of the half-way point to El-E.ijm ; whilst
the dragon inscription could not be reached under a "^vhole day.
Totally unprepared for a wintry night in the open at such an
nltituile, they returned re infedd; Khizr and 'Urahim iucon-
tinently disappeared, and we desisted from reconnaissances to
the north of Maglntir Shu'ayb.
Jayi. 2iith. — At 7 a.m. we left JVtaghair Shu'ayb and took the
road to Maknd, along the fme valley of that name. At 7.45 a.m.
the mule-riders crossed the low stony divide separating the Wady
'Afal from the Wady Makna ;* of old culled Wady " Madyan."
The valley, here very well define<I, winds left or west of the
well-known ridge Umm Kida el-8ainra. ** Brown" aa the
name denotes, is a lump of chocolate-coloured carbonate of
lime, the weather-gashes disclosing upper white strata (gyp-
sum) : and below them, red rock, probably grit upthrust by
the plutonic formations. In this region Kl-Safrii is the generic
name of the yellow formations (coralline and gypsum) ; El-
Hamra, Hamfrah or Humayrah of detached ruddy hills, and
El-Ash'hab (femin. Shidiba — \ ,« . ). of the grey or ash-
*■ The word ( [jji^ ) mconiDg a place where ihe aun ubinca not, ends with an
Alif, and was ado|ited from the Arabic by Ptolemy. It Tras first •written with
an Ayn by the learned Burckhardt, who Beldom makes anch mistakes. Thu hard
Kit (o) pronounced with a "g" (in gorgu) by tlie Arabs, oocoimls for tho
popular form " Mugna ," and, worse still, " Mugaah " as on the Admiralty Chart
28 Burton'5 Itineraries of the Second Erjicdition into Midian.
coloured as granite. On the rifjbt bank we eaw the gape
of the important Wady Sukkeh. At 10.10 A.M., after 3 hour8 =
8 miles, we halted for rest under a bay or hollow in the
cliff-wall called El-Humayrah ( y .^^ ). where the strata of
pebbles reminded me of those which in Brazil accompaQy the
diamond.
K^^snming our route at noon we entered a sensational gorge :
its tall walls, larap-black and blood-red, are called the 'Alidayn,
or two slaves. After one hour and a half we issued from the
gully and recognised the coast features. On our right (north)
was t!ie gypsum mound Raghainat-el-Margas, forming the
staple of the gate ; whilst to the south was the Kughaymah (or
"little gypsum-hill") amongst the Jibiil el-llamra.* At
2 P.M. we tumed to the right of the 'Wady, whose broad bed
is made impracticable, near its "gate," by rocks and palm-
forest. Here we inspected the Musallat Mtisa (oratory of
Muses), and at 2.30 p.m., after a spell of 2 h. 30 m. = 7 miles,
we sightt'd
•' The shifting waste of diin-hluo hrine
And fading olive hyaline."
The camp was pitched upon our old gi-ound. The total of
this march had been 5 h. 30 m. = 17^ miles. I have described
it at full length in Chapter V. 'The Land of Midian (Re-
visited)'; and the western section between the sea and the
"Red Hills " in ' The Gold Mines of Midian.' T
The statioua on our northern liuo of march were: —
1. El-Muwiijiah to Wady Tiryam .. 5 hours. =: I5i miles.
2. ToSharaia 4 „ „ 13 „
3. „ the Jebcl el-Abyaz 4 „ „ 12 „
4. „ SlinTmi (return) , 4 „ „ 12 „
i5. „ 'Aynunah 2h. 40m.„ 7 „
6. „ El-Usaylah 4 „ „ 11 „
7. „ Mftgliair Shu'ayb 6 „ „ IB „
8. „ Makni 5h. 30m. „ 17J „
Total 35 hours ,,106 „
Thus the average rate of progress would be 3 miles an hour,
halts not inrluded.
At Makna we were pleased to meet the gunboat Miikhbir
and the Sambuk, carrying our stores and rations for the men
and mules. I found the place charming, and stayed there a
week (January 25th — Febuary 2ud) to explore its mineral
• gee vol. i. p. 349.
t In thi^ vol. i , p. 335, 1 made the distance " seven hours by dromedary or tea
by oaiutl = 25 imlii».''
Eurton'x Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian, 29
wealtb, by far the most important we liad yet seen. It is the
very place for a mining settlement: with plenty of wood,
and water snificient for washing oiy^s as well as for cultivation ;
with regular winds blowing strongly from north and south ; a
rise of the tide about iive feet high — this forre cnuld easily bo
applied to boats as on the Danube and the Adige — and a port
open only to the west. The harbour, al.so deserihed in my
first volume, has two natuml piers partly worked by the
ancients: protected by hills in front and behind, it is safe from
the northern and southern gales ; and it would easily be defended
against the rare but dangerous Gharbis (westers).
The delay again euabled us to correct the errors of our flying
survey, and to make a careful reconnaissance of the neighbour-
hood.«. For the first time 1 heard the term Jebel el-Fahisat*
applied to the dwarf metalliferous range subtending the shore:
it had been miscalled in vol. i- I was also puzzled by tlie
presence of porous basalt whicli had supplied the first Expedition
with a veinlet of natural " electron ' — gold and silver mixed.
Completely wanting in tlie Wady Makna, it appears in scatters
along the shore to the north. Our guide, Shaykh Furayj,
knew nothing nearer than the Ilarrah or volcanic tract bound-
ing the Hisma on the east. This was going too far, at least
five days' journey; and broken querns "t were found in the
haute vUle uf Makna. Moreover during hist spring 1 had heard
of raininjj ruins in the mountain TayyiU Ism.
Accordingly, on January 27th, Lieut. Amir was des-
patched northwards witfi a small dromedary-caravan under
Shaykh Furayj. He wound along the .shore where the weathered
coiallines, grit.^, and limestones, form the quaintest features,
giant pixies and mushrooms, columns and ruined castles. After
an hour's ride he crossed the Wady Halifah (joLJl^)» ^^
tall and well-defined banks of this broad valley, which
drains the northern ilank of the Rughatnat Makna, are of sand-
stone-2;rit, imbedding a whole geological museum. The line
is said to supply brackish water? none was seen, but there are
dute-trecs in the sole, wldlst others cling to the steep banks,^
About one mile beyond it is the Wady el-Duwaymah (" of the
little Daum-tree "), with a clump of the Crueifera Thekiica close
" The root appears to be " fahia" — bcUy, tripe, ponch.
t Only one «liapo was found ; the " pot-quern" of the British lalea ie appBiimtly
unknown in Midian,
I After this point all the information \a Iwrrowed fri3m Lieut. Amir's jtkctchea
and route-book : of cour.te I am not unswcruWc for their corrcetneas. Wo had
inten<led to Iniid at El-Uiikl and to inspect the line, but the heavy weather ia
the (iulf of 'Akaboh inter{>o»ed ita veto.
30 Burton'* Itineraries of ttie Second Expedition into MJdian,
to the sea. Another mile and a third led to the Wady Abi
Nakhlah, owning a single burnt or blasted date-tree, and a
little beyond it the coast bends from 25° to 30° (both mag.).
The fourth " Nullah," \N'ady KaBarah (^ LcJ " l>eing sbort "),
distant about a mile, shows in two places ranges of stones
which beiir the semblance of ruins. On the right or east
rose the Itght-colonred Jebel Sukk, which is seen from the
heights above Makna ; and on the southern bank of the Wady
Sukk (" the closed road "), wbich drains it to the sea, appeared
a hill of porous basalt, bore called b)' the Arabs Hajar el-
HarraL. The specimens brought home, if they be hond fide,
prove that volcanic outbreaks, detuched, sporadic, and un-
expected, occur in Midian, as in the limestones of Syria and
Palestine, even near the shore. It would be interesting to
ascertain their eonntction with the great volcanic lines in the
interior, the Uauriin and the Harrah.
Crossing the Wady Sukk, the travellers liad on the right
hand the Jebel Tayyib Ism. From our camp this chocolate-
coloured mass, studded with small peaks, appears a southern
outlier of the great blue wall EI-Ma^hafeh, bounding the
northern horizon. For a short distance a bad, rough path leads
along the " Good Name " — no one ean explain the cause of its
being so-called — and then the clifls fall sheer into the sea,
explaining why the caravans never travel that wav. Thus
compelled, the track bends inland to 65'^ (iniig-) ^^^ enters a
Nakb or pass, a gash conspicuous from the gulf, an immense
canon or couloir, looking as if emptied of its dyke or vein.
Curious to say, its south-western prolongation cuts the cliffs near
Marsa Dahab in the so-called Sinaitic peninsuht. The southern
mouth bears signs of habitation : a parallelognim of stones, 120
paces by 91, has been partially buried by a landslip ; and
there are remnants of a dam measuring over a hundred yards in
length. About 300 yards higher up, water appears in abund-
ance ; and 25 to 30 palms grow on both sides. Here, however,
is not a trace of man ; the winter-torrents must be dangerous ;
and there is hardly any grass for sheep. The gorge now
becomes very wild ; the pass narrows from 50 paces to 10, and
in one nlace a loaded camel could hardly squeeze through ;
whilst tlie clifl'-wallsof red and grey granite (?) tower some 2UO0
feet above the path. The same altitude is given by l>r. Beke
(p. 533) ; but be did not remark the prolongation of the couloir
in the eastern rim of the Sinaitic peninsula, Water, which as
usual sinks in the sand, is abundant enough in three other
spots to supply a large caravan; and two more date-clumps
•Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 31
■were passed — hence, if all here told be true, the "Nakhil
Tawio Ism " reported to me last spring.*
I'he total ride occnpied 5 Jiours (= 16 miles). 8till the tall
blue range peaking to the oftst, and throwing out a long western
slope to the eea, was far off. The caraTan had not covered
more than half the distance to the Bii* ol-Mashi, where a small
Marsa, or anchorage-ground, called El-Suwayhil ( W^^)?
the " Little Shore," opens to the noilh of the Mazhafeh block.
From this " Well of the Walker " a pass leads to the Wady
Marsha : in it we had been told of extensive ruins and Bibdti
(" doors " or catiicombs), but tbe whole was inveuliou. Our
Sayyid bad ridden througb it eii route from Maghair Shu'ayb
to El-Hakl, and found notliing.
The second excursion took place on Monday, Jan. 28. The
son of one of the guides, Gabr " Kazi of the Arabs," bad brought
in fine specimens of quartz from the eastern liills, and offered
himself as a guide. At 7.1a Mr. Clarke and Lieut. Yusuf set
out to collect exact details of the find. They walked up the
Wady Makua, hauling their mules after them ; here the low-
level fountain 'Ayn el-Fara'i j breaks out from lj<jth banks,
unites in a single stream, flowing under the tall right side of
carbonate of lime, now bare, then capped by conglomerate, forms
deep pools among buge boulders of grey granite, and finally
siuKs before reaching the shore. Higher up the side is a second
water, 'Ayn el-I'anah ( jj [^^ " of spying "), springing from
the sands under the date-trees that line the right and left
flanks. Apparently it is tlie drainage of a gypsum "hat"
called El-Kulayb (c^) ; and, above the " httle dog," the
right bank is occupied by a " Goz," or inclined sheet of
pure, loose, and rippled sand. Opposite these two features the
left bank of the Wady Makoa receives the "torrent of the
Quartz Mountains," concerning which more will be said ; and
higher up, the huge watercouree known as Wady el-Kharaj X
(o/w Akhraj), threads the gypsum cliffs. It rises in the south
near Umm Giyal, and drains the Kkaht or Klwhai (i" .L )
lands, meaning a low place or plain where trees are beaten for
camel-fodder.
Leaving the Wady el-liharaj to the right, and still striking up
the Wady Makna, the travellers, marching towards the "lied
• VoL i. chap. xii. f Fara'f would mcnn " derivative " or •* desccndlDg."
{ Mcauing " a mixture of black aad white,"
32 BrmTON'* Itin/raries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
Hills," reached tLo Wady Mab ug (oblique or crooked valUy)
Doeutioned in my first vohime.' This large feature, draining a
mountain of the same name, is said to supply bitter water. A
bottleful had been brought to us with much ceremony, and
tliose who tasted it were uncertain whether the flavour was sul-
phureous or ammoniacul. Wishing to have some report about
it, I had directed the explorers to ride up the sandy bed till
they found the spring. Presently, leaving their nuiles, they
turned off i^harp to tlie right, descended a steep ineline, and.
suddenly entered a chasm in the rocks which here rise about
200 feet high. After a total of two hours' walk and ride, they
came upon n. pool of rain-water, some 4 to 5 inches deep ; it
was evidently visited by many animals, camels included, and
hence its peculiar flavour.
They then retraced their steps, crossed the Wady lyiab'tig, and
going north came upon the " Marii." This network of quartz-
veins in sandstone grit (?) was found in the Jibal Umm Lasaf.
The block lies behind or east of the Jibal el-Hamrd, the Red
Hills to which tlie first exjiedition had been altraeted by the
two pale leprous patches, the Rxujiuujmeh, or smaller g)'pseous
forraations.t No. 2 excursion was interesting : it proved that
tlie " white stone" is found to the east as well as the south of
Makna.
A Bedawi named Jazi had brought us fine specimens of brim-
stone, pure crystals adhering to the gypsum, and possibly formed
by decomposition of the sulphate of lime. If this be the case
we may expect te find the niincrul generally diffused throughout
the Secondary formation. Naturally it will be richer in some
idnces and in others poorer. Further investigation in Midiau
mtrodueed ua to two other depohits; making a total of three,
without incluJing one heard of in Northern Sinai, and thus
rivalling, if not excelling, the riches of the opposite African
shore. I need hardly dwell upon the importance of a brimstone
much resembling that of Sicily : its price seems steadily to
rise, and it is held to bo worth importing from distant Iceland.
Strange to say, the Bedawin of ]\Iidian buy their suiplmr frum
the •' Barr el-'Ajam " (Egypt), and thus the diggings will be
found virgin.
On our lirst visit, we had heard of a Jehel el-KihrH (*' sulphur
hill ") on the road from Makna to 'Ayniinah, but there was no
one to show (he place. This time 1 was more fortunate. On
the morning of Jan. 26th a caravan of four camels, for the
two quarrymen and the guide, set ofl* with their sacks and tools.
They did not return till the morning of the third day, having
• P. 851.
t ToJ. i. p, 349.
lost the road. Of course they could not ascertain the extent
of the suljihur deposit, but tliey brougrht buck rieh specimens,
whicli determined me to iiave tiie place surveyed, 'i'iiis giivo
abundant troable, as will appear in duo time; the second
attempt was a dead failure, and it was not till February l8th
that 1 could obtain a satisfactory jdaa of tlic jdace.
Meanwhile we were working hai-d at the discoveiy of the
iiorthoru nuircli. A full account of oar ludicrous disappoint-
ment h;i3 been given in the ' Land of Midiau (Revisited).'
Suttice it here to say that a quartz vein emerging from and
in close coatact with the green and red porpliyritie traps and
plutonic outcrops of the Jebel el-Fahisat (^-^ i\*. ,'-<;^) yielded
to the rudest cupellatiou some 2S per (lent. of metal, whicrh
proved, however, to be iron not silver. But the block contains
other ores; and it is in the most favourable condition for
working: water and wood abound; the winds and tides are
regular euough for mills, the distance of the quartz crest is
hardly two miles from the little port, and a ht/t-hahn, or air-
tramway, would discharge the ore into the ship's hold. In my
lirst vohmie (cliap. xii.) I have incorrectly railed the "Jebel el-
Fahisat," confounding it with a small red hill to the north uf
our camp, El-Muzaydni, and this also is an error for El-Muzeudi
( -^j -J -l U. The fonner, a long dark block running parallel
with the shore, is flanked to the east by the Secondary
formations, the Jebel el-Khuraj and others; beyond them, hoiv-
ever, lies the similar plutonic formation, the Kalb el-Nakluh;
and, still farther east, anotlier rises — the great maritime ivall
of the Jibul el-Tihamah. The Fahisat seems to abound in ull
manner of metals. The quartz form pushes northward veins
distinctly cupriferous^ imbedded in grey granite. To the east
of the block, distant about a mile, a|)peured tine micaceous
iron, and more green quartz, of which a third deposit was
found within a mile farther south. On the day before we left
Makna (February 2). the Arabs brought in heavy masses of
purple-black metalliferous rock scattered over the southeni
gorges and valleys, while others dechvred that they could point
out a rein in situ. Finally, red marUs in the stones suggested
cinnabar.
Jan. 26th. — At 11 p.m. set in a furious norther, locally
called El-Ayli ( \J\), the 'Akabab - Aylah wind; whose
efi'ects have been well described in Wellsted'a second volume.
The storm began with a rush and a roar; tlie gravel striliing
VOL. :;i.ix. n
34 Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Alidian.
tlie canvas sounded like heavy rain-drops, and it instantly
levelled the two large tents. This gale makes the nir excep-
tionally cold and niw before dawn ; it appears to abate between
noon and sunset ; it either iiicrenses or lessens in turbulence
with moonrise, and it usually lasts from three to seven days.
The {riinboat Mukhhir fjot up steam by way of precaution ; but
she rode out the 8torin in safety, as the northern reef and the
heodhmd l\as el-'L'arah (the " surrouuder ") form a complete
defence against " El-Ayli," whilst the natural pier to the
south would have protected her from the Azyab.*
It would have been fur different had the storm veered to
the west and the terrible Gharbi set iu. The port of Makna,
described in my first volume, can hardly bo called safe; on
the other hand, its bottom has not been surveyed, and a simple
breakwater — bundles of tree-trunks clamped with iron bamls,
connected by strong rings and staples, and made fast to the
bottom — would convert it into a dock. At any rate, on the
opposite Sinaitic shore, at the distance of 13 knots, there is, as
will appear, an admirable harbour of refiif:^e.
The three normal days of El-Ayli had come and gone ; the
storm continued ; yet the cloud-veil lifted, and the mountains
of Sinai and Midian, which before had been hidden as if by a
London fog, again stood out in sharp and steely blue. The
sea, paved with dark slate, and dometl with an awning of
milky-white clouds, patched here and there with rags and
slireJs of black nimbus-mist tluxt poured westward from the
Suez Gulf, showed us how ugly the '* Birkat'Akabah "can look.
Meanwhile I boated ofl" to the MuMibir all the specimens
brought down by the Expedition, and drew up instructions for
Lieutfuant Yusuf und M. I'hilipin,
At last, about midnight (Feb. '2), the tempestuous northerly
gale, which had now lasted four days and four nights, ceased
nlmost suddenly. The change was bailed with general joy.
The travellers looked forward to ending their peregrinations ;
while the voyagers, myself included, hoped safely to circum-
navigate the Gulf el-'Akabah, and to trace, as correctly as
possible, the extent, the trend and the puissance of the quarta
formations. I have reason to think that large bands of " Mani "
vein the " Old Red " of Petra, and that they may possibly extend,
tmdcr the waters of 'Akabah, into the peninsula called .Sinai.
IV. Bound the 'Akabah Gidf to El-MuwatdaL—Feb. 3rd.—
Nothing becomes Makna better than the view on leaving it;t
* In clasaical Arabic "Azyab" means calamity, a south wind or a sotith-oostert
t In ' The Land of Midian (Reviaited),' a foil description of tlie scenery ia
given in chap. \'ii.
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 35
nor is there any better place for stadying the general aspect
of the great gypsum formation. The Secondaries, before being
upthnist, pierced and isolated by the later plutonic rocks,
especially porphyritic trap, once extended over the whole
region ; and formed dry land where sea and reefs now are.
Here we see them in the whole segment of the circle, trending
from El-]MiiW(iylah thronifh the scatter of ishuids to Makua,
and thence to the north-eastern base of the Sioaitic peninsula.
Thus the Gulf El-'Akabah, a depression probably caused by
the upheaval of the igneous mountains, was in early ages a
■VBSt level plain with broken platforms of gypsum, crossing
diagonally from north-west to south-east, the northern third of
the great inlet. M. Jilario (Keport) assigus four several epochs
to the coast of Midian: 1. The primary, when the earth's
surface, affected by secular cooling and eontraetiou, assumed ita
present shape. 2. Secondary, sulphates and carbonates of lime,
gypsum, chalk, plaster of Paris, marble and alabaster, rising to
a maximum (?) of 120U feet above the surface. 3. Plutonic
injections of red felsite, jasper and green porphyritic trap in
solid masses and veins of all sizes cutting througa the granites
and syenites ; and lastly, 4. The comparatively recent upheaval
of the Ghats or coast ranges.
In this part of my paper I shall dwell chiefly upon the
changes to be made in the Admiralty Chart (Red Sea, Sbeet 1).
It is incorrect to the last degree \ especially ujron the Siuaitic
side, and its erroi-s have extensively infected popular works.
The coast line peems to have been laid down from a Hying
fturrey ; of course tlxe names are all wrong ; and, worst of all,
the barbotirs are cither unmarked or wrongly marked. The
naval oflicer, Ahmed Kaptan, who had been sent with us to
take astro nymitial observations, unfortunately fell so ill that he
was compelled to lay up. A correct survey of both cotists will
bo a »iiie qua non when the mines an^- worked.
At 9 A.M., after a long delay in fishing up the anchor, and
in persuading the rotten old boiler to work, we stood over for
theSinaitic shore, distant IS railed (direr-;! geog.); and we made
Id three hours the Mai"sa or M'inat el-JJahab, the "golden
anchorage " or " port of gold." This name is applied by the
pilots, as by Burckhardt, only to the mouth of the Wady el-
l)ahab, which above its gate becomes Wady el-Ghayh, draining
the eastern flank of the so-called I\lount Sinai. It is a
shallow sag, with a central line of [mlms, the usual branch
huts inland, and wells of brackish water: it is afl'ected by
. mftriners during southerly gales, because it is protected by a
projection and a ledge of reef. Eiippell calls it " Minna;" he
was then a sucking Arabist ; but his map, all things considered,
D 1
36 Burton '« Itineraries of tfie Second Expedition into Midian.
is wonderfully correct. What the chart calls " Dabnh, gcKjd
anchorage, sheltered from all winds," is known to all as M'inat
Ginili ( Al^*** 80 called after the black mountain of
}iorpl)yriti(! ti'ap rising ahnjptly behind it This dock ia
defendf^l to seawards by a " sandy nook," a spit, curling like
a shepherd's crook, that sweeps round from the east U> the
Bouth-west, giving shtdter to tlie many Sambuks which frequent
it during thc5 season wlum pearl-oysters are fished. All alou*]j
this coast simikr coralliuu reefs serve to build the bvnd ; they
are gradually covered with conglomerate, and converted into
terra Jirma by the rubbish shot and shunted from the wady
months — a process still actively carried on.
Feb. 4if/t. — We set out northwards at 7 a.m., when an Azyab, or
southerly wind, threatened a blow. After steaming two hours
( = 7 knots) we landed a party at the Wady Umayyid (^y ^p
" of the little pil!ar ") to inspect certain patches of whitish stone,
of which a specimen had appeared above the black porphyritic
gorge in the Jebel el-Uindi. Already in the Wady el-Dahab
we had found watf-r-rolU'd pebbles of quartz, including the
crystallised and the green or copper-stained; but not the
immense variety common to the Arabian side ; nor could any
veins be traced in the rocks. A fragment of liuiestonc, witii
sharp angles, showed that its origin could not be fur distant
The Bedawin, like those about the Cair^'ue pyramids, ignore
the Midianite terms '' Marii " uuJ " ^larwah," t culling the rock
Sntcan, properly speaking syenite, but popularly aj)plied to
any hard stone, especially silex. Water-rolh^d fragmcnls were
again found in this large Wady Umayyid, which extends a whole
day inland ; but the white sheets^ flecking thu hills here and
elsewhere, proved to be light-coloured chlorites and serpentines.
From the mouth of the ]\[arsa el-E)ahab (proper) to tho
Wady Wati'r (" of thu llill-truck "), the maritime range of Sinai
is known as the Jebel e!-8amghi. And now the errors of the
chart amaze us. The Ras "Arser," — what a name for a
headland! — should be Htm Kusayr ( ^^j>^ tlie small fort.
"Cosseir"); moreover, it wholly wants that safe-looking land-
locked nook to its north. The reality, a trifling projection,
which is passed without remark, is backed by a mere rent in
the hills, a short broad Fiujuara, called Umm ei-Afa'i (the
" Mother i>f Vipers "). Bi.-yond it we passed at 12.30 P.M.
(3 hours 20 minutes = 12 miles) a yellowish little buttress, the
* From Juniia, boiug huuciibackecl, gibboue,
t Si'ti put i, sect. iL
M
Bttbton'^ Itineraries of the Second Exjtcditton into Midian. 37
Tarayf el-Rih ("Little Facer of tlio Wind"), and ODother
similar bluff lump of rook, whieli ako breaks the line. The
larger of these two features is tho third and siMitbeminost
projection of the western shore seen from the northern end
of the Gulf.
About 2 P.M. we were abreast of the line of palms, and the
deserted huts which form the southern Nuwaybi' (•„,-, i^Qt
meaning tho little Naba' {" Spring "), Biirpkbnrdt (' Arabia,'
p, 516) writes "Noweyba," without bis usual accuracy. Evi-
dently this is the phice which the chart, callitis: it " Wasit,"
thrusts some 10 miles south of its sinjijlo " Nawibi ; " and
where it shows an anchorage (/) of 12 fathoms, defended on
the north by a projection of the coast. The water-pits and
date-trees owe their being to the anast-omosis of two ivell-
defined sandy Wadyp, issuing from their resjiwtivo gorges, the
northern and the southern Wady el-Sa\leh. 1 he Jebel el-Su'deh,
separating the two like a wedge, shows at its seaward base
blots of manve-red <>\'orlyiiig dead-white clay (?). They extend
along the left baidc of tho valley to the north as far as the
foothills facing the shore. These are the first indications of
the Secondary formation in " Sinai " ; farther north they
appeared in force.
After passing the southern Nuwaybi' we doubled a long
sandspit, projecting far eastward, with a line of light-azuro
wat^T, showing shallows at the apex. It protects from the south
a fine deep buy, which is also well sheltered from the north by
several lines of shallows. The loose sands, spn^ati over the
reef, are so light and subtle that they are moved by every stray
breath of wind. They liim the groimd, and liide the hills like
a dust-storm in Sind. As usual in 'Akabah Gulf, tho water is
so deep that a ship may ride within a few yards uf tho shore.
This anchorage is called by the pilots "VVasit (Isu^liy the
** Middle"), and it occupies the sontbern half of the bay; the
northern moiety, witli its little creek and line of palms, being
called the " Upper Nuwaybi'." The vegetation is fed by the
large Wady MuzajTig (^(j ^ l^),* which vomits an exceptional
mass of arenaceous matter to tho nortli. Tho chart places tho
anchorage (10 fathoms) south of the main projection, when it
lies on tlie other side. Wellsted (ii. laO) imperfectly describes
'' Naweibi," one of his stations, as " a narrow slip of land
• For Miizoyrij (short Towel), dim. of Mftzraj, to c. form of Zwj, « tumoU.
Qoiao of horav'S.
i
38 Rtthton'* IHnerariest of the Secovd ETpedi'tion into Midian.
covered with date-trees. Beyoud this the country rises with
a gradual sandy slope to the uistunce of 2 miles, wliea it meeta
the lower undulations of the mountains."
About Wasit thu palms are scattered, and the large saud-
monnds threaten lo bury them ; already aeveral are waist-deep
in it. Behind the hay, and distinctly visible from the other
side of the Guli', is a great gash, the Wady Watir ( Ai.) ;*
by which Syrian and other Christian pilgrims to Sinai make
the monastery, Kiunding on camels the danf^erous northern
third of El-'Aikabah. Tliis valley reeeives from the south, and
distant one day's march, the Wady el-Hazrah (Hazeroth),t " the
most beautiful and romantic landscape in the Desert" (Palmer).
Prom the north it ia fed hy the Wady el-'Ayn, which can be
reached in half a day ; at least so said the guide, Mabrilk ibn
Suiayyira, the Muzayni, whom we had shipped at the last
laudinjr-place. I was careful to check his information concern-
ing the coast by making general inqoiries, and he was not found
wanting. These valleys arc imperfectly shoivn in the chart ;
bettor by Professor Palmer (' Desert of the Exodus '), who
visited and described them.
Anclioriiig under the Wasit sand-heaps at 3.30 p.m. (G hours
30 minutes = t]0 miles), we made certain that the "Nawibi" of
the chart utterly wants the cover of the northern sandspit,
which, as has been said, Hes south of it. The Bedawin of all
this coast are of the Muzayni tribe, a miserably poor and
wretched, degi-aded lot. They live, like savages, on lish
and Hh»'ll-tish, use catamarans of untrimmed palni-truuks ;
drink briickish water, and sleep under the trees rather than
repair the huts. Of coursi^ thoy are desperate beggars, as
they are greedy,' idle, ami worthless. The twtt nieu and three
women, who were waiting upon their few camels — no sheep
were to he Irad — refused, without initiatory " bakhshish," to tell
the site of ceilain rains in their hilLs, concerning which they
discoursed or romancerl. JrJeyond Nuwaybi' to EI-'Akabah there
is absolutely no population on the " iSinaitie " shore.
Fth. ^tth. — At 6.30 A.M. we stood eastwards, to avoid the
♦ "A iieeosKiiry " (tLiii;;) : " vvjitiru.t" woulil im-an a iniumiT, tnodit or woy,
t The Itev. Mr. Hollaiiil (Pupur at i\w BrUi*h Aswwiiitiini mfeliuj; of 1878).
•who biid walkc<] from W, Watir to R<w Moliaramed. disputes tho idftitity of
Hozeroth and W. cl-HuzniL (of tliu "pursuer," or of "settled ubodea").
Ifo dcK.-8 not " believe it poaaiblo for tbi' lar^o Lost of tlie iHnioliteH to have
travf>lk'd this way." The fuiiie may I'ti siiid of tiliuoat tliu wholn xoato during the
lilxtxiiiii und tike wiuiderings : on tlie oue Imiid iha iigureij ((iO(J,OUU men, &c.) are
amenoble to n very largo reduction. If two inilUrms of souls aro to trBVul
through a desert without nturvution they (ravel by a. luimole, jiotbing Iuhs; aud
it muttera nought whether tlie ro«ul f)e " piwisible '* or not. Hhould ruusson Iw
lulmitted, wo rwluce at oacu tliu two millionii to twenty tlnjaeaQd.
Burton'a Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Afidian, 39
northern reefs and shallows, which had defended us during
the night, and we passed the northern Nuwaybi', the little
creek to the north-west of Wasit. From this {wint to the
Gult-hetid a continuous Hue of shoal-water, subtcmding the
coast, and coinpelliuj; ships to stand comparatively far out, is
rightly set down on the chart. Presently the western seaboard
entirely changed its dull, desolate, monotonous aspect. The
view becjime essentially "Siuaitic," and unlike auytluu<^ I had
seen, save and except only Iceland — to compare tAVO extremes
that attempt to meet. The eye rests upon a screen showing
one or more jilanes of bare and barren njcky walls and peaks,
dim-brown and lifjlit-yeliow, contrasting strongly witn the
bright bine sea. Its charms aro not those of the horizonless
golden Desert ; of the fertile valley, of the fair iield. Neither
stream nor forest diversifies it : " The tints aro thost; of sun-
light on the i-olonied stones, and the outlines are the contours
of tlie ro<.*k8." In the lowlands, and forming small sea-facing
bliifl^, gleam rainbow lines, red and yellow, nianvo, purple and
dull-white clays, the Brazilian Taua ; while inland, parallel
with the shore, and peering above the granites, the syenites,
and the porpliyries of the coast, rise the pale forms of the
" Sinaitic " Shafah, the " Lip Mountains.'' Tlie name, unknown
to the chart, is given to that section of the Eastern (" t^iunitic")
Ghats which, begiiuiing at Wady Watir, passing the Jibal el-Sam-
ghi northwards to the llajj-road, and even beyond El-'Akabah.
The naked, squalid, ghastly hues, and the peculiar quoin-
ahapes, at once disclosed the familiar Secondary fonuation of
Miaianitish Makna. The guide called this ?ypsum by its Ara-
bian name, EKt^ham* in opposition to El-Hazb, the sandstones.
The latter word is explained further on. 1 was not surprised when
shown a Jebel el-Kibrit, a taller form than its neighboure. It
is probable that the brimstone deposits, like the copper silicate
and the turquoises of Ziba, rounding the head of El-'Akabah, ran
down the Arabian shore parallel with the African seaboard.
After 1 hour (= 3^ knots) we passed the utiiraportant Has
el-Mttlihah {*' 8alt-head "), sheltering to the north a little creek,
and forming the southern buttress of a short, broad valley; up
the latter, after an hour's walk, palms and a well of brackish
water are said to be fouml. This is })robably the '■■ Amhaid," a
name unknown to the pilots, which the chart places some five
miles north of its " Nawibi." At 9 a.m., after 2 hours 50
minutes from Wasit ( = *'^ knots by dead reckoning), we passed
Bas el-Ramlah, the '* Sand'head " (not Abu Eamkh), a ruddy-
* Bagbdm in oloasic Arabic means eoft aoil mixed witU tuind ; Ruklidni ie the
muciu of ttUceiJ.
40 Burton'.? Itineraries of the Second Fxjiedition into Midiatt.
faced bluff with a cmvat of loose drift, covering the neck and
making this second great projection from the western shore
equally conspieuoua from the north, the south, and the western
siaes. * Behind it lies the Wady Suwayr, which leads dii'ectly
up to the Sulphur Mountain.
Beyond the *Sand-head the '* Sinaitic " flank shows a novel
formation, the hills of Abn Mogbra {] Ji^).* The word in
Egypt means a ruddy or ochre colour ; it is especially applied
to the horizontal bauds of red paint which alternate with white
circles in the mosques and minarets of older Cairo — survivals
of the brick courses still used to bind the stones. Abii
Moghra is a wall of broken crests, red as tiles, and looking as
if built up. Giude Mnbnik compared this " Hazb " f, w'ith the
Hisma rof-ks, which are nothing but New Red Sandstone. A
tall quoin of gypseous matter shows where the Egyptian Hajj-
caravan, after rounding on retuni the northern end of the gulf,
nighta at the 'Akabat el-JIisriyveli or Egyptian steep. This
gap in the western wall of the Wady el-'Arabah is so called to
distinguish it from the 'Akabat el-Shilmivyeh (Syrian steep), a
similar formation on the Uaniascus-Medinah road, t»(> miles
farther east, described by Burekhardt (Appendix III, ' Travels
in Arabia,' " The H ad j -route from Damascus to Mekka"). The
2sakb or Pass used to be dreaded by camel-riders before it
! was repaired by Abbas Pasha. The Princess-mother of the
first Khcdiv wjis the traditional " Pasha " who first mnde
the pilgrimage in a carriage; but, according to accinints, tlm
vehicle in many places was carried upon men's shoulders. f The
Bedawin deny that the town "jVkabat-Aylali (Ehith) and the
Gulf el-'Akabah t^ke their name from this feature : the words
mean, they say, that the Red Sea "heels" (Ya'kkab el-Bahr),
that is, comes to an end.
Ahead of us, on the western coast, we saw upon the chart,
exactly what is not in nature. The northern horizon, by no
means a straight and almost unbroken line, is buuntled by a
long white gypseous projection, the Ras el-Talxd»ah, which some
call Tabakah and others Tabah. It completely hideu the Gulf-
•
* From Magbor, a dark opaque rcddiah ooloor.
t In classical Arabic Hazb (, ntri^^ wonid be the plural of Hazbat, a rangs of
mountains or hilLt, a Li^li steep, isolated ridge or cone, or a larpj projectinp rock.
Here il weiun t«i be appliwl tn tlio n»d and ruddy sondHtonea fiuzaybat (Hudiiy-
bat, Iho diminutive fomij muanii a " hiliot'k" in " Sinai " as well as in Midian.
t A careful descTiption of the linw ia given iu Dr. fioke'a rotum journey fram
"Sinai in Arabia." Tlio veteran travclltT and Lia ooinpaniou, tiowever, paid no
attoution to Uio antiquitios on litlior >»ide of lUeni.und they passed by El-HawduH
("* The BuiaH ") witbont even int^uiring tlie mt«niog n.f tlio word.
BuBTON** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into J^Iidiatt. 41
head ; and to the south of it projects a smaller point, also white
and gypseous, known as El-Tuwaybah, the "little Tabah."
There was scanty sign of the *' White C'ape," which on the chart
is no cape at all. except a brown heatiland — perhups it may
gleam bright in the sun — forming a eballuw bay, bounded north
of the Ras el-Tabehah. 'Akabah ttuvn now appeare ofif tho star-
board bow in the nsual phuj^e of a long line of pnhns. The
guide gave tho nanieJelje! and Watly Unina el-Hay3'ah (*' Mother
of the Snake ") to a heap and a watercourse on the left shore. At
11.30 we steamed by the Wady El-Mukabbilah (^J^Ji^)?
whose broad shunt is literally garnished with thorn-trees, and
whose Ras or headland lurnis the fir-it great projection of the
western coast as viewed from the northern Gulf-end.
At 12,30 P.M. (0 hours = 22^ knots) we aTichored in the deep,
narrow channel separating the "8inaitic" mainland from the
northern one of tlie two island-^ in the 'Akubah Gulf, Strange
to say, neitlier uf thcni appears in Keith Joiniston's folio.
This scrap of rock is known to tho maps as Jezimt Fara'im,
possibly from Senaferu of the First Dynasty, who conquered
Mafkadand — the Cnuntry of the Turf|uoise — or ''Sinai"; and
the moderns still preserve the Pharaohnic tradition. The vulgar
term is Jebel el-Kahi'h, "Fort-liill;" Burckhardt {' Arabia,'
y. 511) calls it Koreye ; Schubert, Kurayyah ; and Arconati,
ezirat el-Qoreieh, evidently all corruptions of Kala'li. Schubeit
also would here phiee mysterious Eziougeber. Riippell, who
first Tisited El-' Akabah town, wliich many others, liurckhnrdt
included, had faili^d to reacli, v^ivea '' Enirag," doubtless for
Marakh, the name of a large Fiiunara on the western mainland,
lying a short distance to the south. Beke (p. 350) has a fair
sketch of his " Jesirat Fir'on," and quotes the Sailing Directions,
which here may be trusted. I need not repeat my long de-
scription of this lump of granite and its Mosfemised Crusading
castJe; the latter possibly built upon older foundations.*
Feh.G, — x\. day occupitiil in tinkering our tubes, and in survey-
ing the castle, Avhich is much more ruinous than whcji sketched
by Riippell in 1822. Wellstal's short description (' Arabia,'
vol. ih chap, ix.) is still correet, as it was in 1838.
Feb. 7. — We got up steam at 9.15 A.m. without an accident —
very unusual ! Running up the deep, narrow channel, which
must ho an excellent harlx>ur of refuge in the wildest weather,
we rounded the nortliern end of the islet-rock. On the shore
to port were the Tuway hali and the Tabehah Points ; the latter is
faced by Daum-palms, and up its bed are said to be water and
* See 'Tho Land of Midiaa (Bevisited),' okap. vii.
42 BUBTON** Itineraries of the Second E.rpf>dition iido Midian.
date-clumps. Then came the broad mouth of the Wady el-Misri
(Egyptian valley), at whoso hRud is the Nakb el-'Akabah. This
is the Wady el-Musry uf \\ni chart, which Beke (p. -^(50) has
called the Wady el-Mahascrat — raeaniDc; of '* hemmiupj in,"
or "driving into a comer" (p. 491). Tn its liraestone holes he
found reason to identify it with thcExodieal statiou Pi-ha-hiroth,
or "entrance to the eaverna," Wo thence .struck across the
Gulf-end, and at 10.50 A.M. {— 1 hour 3.5 minutes = 7 miles),
we ancliored in twelve fathoms water off the Fort el 'Akabah.
Mr. John Milne, k.g.s, (p. 5:17, Geological Notes, &c.,
Appendix to Dr. Beke's * Sinai in Arabia '), Ims the follow-
ing: remurkii upon the subject of a canal between 'Akabah
and tLe Dead hsea. "Should this ancient Gulf be restored
(vvliich would apparently be an eni^rinecring work far less
difficult than the recently-constructed treneh between Suez
and Port tSaid), Jerusalem, Damascus (?), and other Syrian
t^iwnR wouhl again be in commuiiiratioii with the Indian
Ocean, and ileets like those of Suluinon {]) might, ply up and
down the now entirely deserted Gulf of Akaba," Does this
savaut reflect that he simply proposes to swamp the whole lower
Jordan? to bring Tiberias iind its hike about ti20 feet below the
sea surface ? in fact to over\s-helm half the " Huly J^and " in a
nineteenth-century deluj^e ?
The rest (»f the day was passed iu receiving visits from
the oiticials, including Mohammed bin J^d el-'Aluwi (of the
'Alawiyyan-lluwaytat) who styles himself *" Shaykh of El-
'Akabah," and whose tribe is recognised as the lawful owners of
the laud upon which Sultan Selirn Khun el-Fiitih (the Con-
queror) built his ibrt. Uuder his guidance we taudrd at the
mouth of the bay, where ruins still show the site of ancient
Elath, the port of the Nabathiean capital, Petra, distant up the
Wady ol-*Arabah only two days of dromedury-riding. The
people declare that the old city extended all round the Gulf-
head front north-west to north-east, where the modern settle-
ment lies. Linant and Laboi-de (' Voyage de i'Arabie Petree,
&c.,' Paris, 183H) confine it to the western shore, and, like
Schubert, place Eziongeber facing it. Amongst the tumuli we
found scoria;, old and new, showing that metal was also worked
here ; and a fine specimen of " Maf ka " or copper-silicate from
the " Sinaitic" Wady Raddadi ( ^-^^^ ,) suggests the kind of
ore treated by the Mutakaddimin, or " IMen of Old."
And now to tell the tale of the *' true Mount Sinai." On the
eastern shore of the gull, south of the town, the two-fold chain
** Jebel el-Sharaf," uuder whose jagged crests the Hajj-Caravan
weuds its painful way to avoid the mountains Tayyil* Ism and
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 43
El-Mazboi'eh, that sit with their feet in the sea, sweeps round
from 8.S.E, to N.N.w. and c;oah)sce8 into a single range. This
line, the Jfbdl el-Shura' ( - \ *_}, the Mount Seir (the
Rugged) of Hebrew Writ, trending iiortliwards, presently
becomes the huge eastern wall of the \V' ady el-'Arabali. A little
beyond EI-*Akubah, and draining through the settlement, is
the Wady el-Yitm ( ^^)' a corruption of " Yatm " or " Yutm "
(solitude, orphanage, separation), which allows easy access
to the Hisma. Burckhardt, usually so correct ill his names,
first miscalled it (^\ . ^^L) "Ithm" ('Arabia,' p. 511), and
described it as " leafling eastwards towards Nedgod." Walkn,
as will appear further on, preferred " Wadi Lithin," another
evident error. Its right-hand buttress, the Jebtd el-Yitm, forms
the apex of this part of the chain. It is a remarkable fpiiture,
not only for its height, commanding, they say, ft view of Mounts
Tor (" Sinai ") and Ilor (Aaron's lomb), but also for its threefold
finial of domes and pinnacles. Hence the Bfidawin, who always
Bttach some modern legend to places wliich strikti the eye,
jdimb it at certain times and make sacrifice at the tomb of an
obsc^ure sunton, Shaykh Bnkir (" wiio rises betimes ").
" Hither," said Mohumraed bm Jad, " came an old man and a
young man, in a steamer belonging to H.M. the Kbediv. The
former told the Arabs that in his books the Jebol •■l-Yitni was
called in his books the Jebel el-Xiir, or the Mountiiiii of Light,
and the latter climbeil to the mountain-top. After which thoy
posted away."
1 quite agree with my lamented friend, Dr. Beke, that we
have still to find the " true Mount Sinai." If anything of the
kind exists, it is probably some mount or hill in the Nejeb
(Negeb), the south country of the days of Abraham or still
farther south, near the base of the Sinaitic Peninsula, the desert
calk'd, by moderns, after the " Wandfrings."* The pro-
loundest Egyptologist of our day, Dr. Heinrich Brugsoh-Bey,
observes that the recognised site lies south of, and far from the
line taken by the Bene Israel; and that the papyri show no
regular route leading anywhere iu thnt direction. Many, also,
have remarked that the Sinai of the Exodus is a single isolated
mountain or hilknotone projection from a long range of heights.
I would further suggest tliat the beat proof of how empirical is
the present identification will be founrf in the fact that neither
the old Israelites nor the modern Jews have ever visited, or
• See note at the end of this section.
jUBTOnV Tiinsraries of the Second Erpedition into Midian,
now make pilf;rimu2:e to, tlie spot which ought to be one of
their Lolieat ot " Holy Places." It is evident that Jebel Serbul
dates its honours only from the earlier ages of Koptic
Christianity (fourth wntury) ; whilst its Greek riyal Jehel
Miisa, the moutitidn uf Mosps (the Bishop?) is even younger.
The :i[»ptMil to tnulitinn must he viiiu when the oriler nf eiie-
cession luul "uiii^ratiou of holy places" is: 1. J. Serial (Copts,
IJurckhardt, Lepsius) ; 2. J. Miisi'i (Greeks, Helena, Justinian) ;
n. J. Kateriim (Biippell ILtth eentury) ; 4- J. Safsafah (Robin-
son, tlitto). The Great Law-giver prohahly marehed his few
familiw of fn;ritive slaves over the phiius of El-Tih north nf
the so-ealli'd 8inai, and up AVady Yitui to tlie Nejeb or south
country, in small divisions Idee tliose of a modern Bedawi
tribe ; and wo knoiv from the latest surveys that the land, now
u fiery ami frozen wilderness, w»is once comparatively well
supplied with vvt)od and water. Dr. Bcke is right in denying
that the 'Olouutaiu of the Law" is the site at present chosen
for it, hut I caunot believe that he has found it in the Jebel
ol-Yitm near 'Akabah.
A few words concerning this Yitm, Walliu's " Wadi Lithm."*
He makes it a cross valley opening through the maritime
chain at about S hours = 24 miles, north of E1-' Akabah: the
mouth is hardly a mile north of the fort, and the distance
to the h(Mid in the llisuiii. is two t.hoit stages. He is right in
stating that the mountuiii-range from the Yitm to -Syria,
fornaing the eastern wall of the valley El-'Arabah, is universally
known as the Jebel £l-J^liara; the 8a'ar of the hieroglyphs
and the JFoDot Seir of tiie Hebrews. But he is wrong in
supposing (p. 'AiH')) thu coast lowlands of jVCadyan Proper (north
Hidian) to be '' knewn l>y ui> other name tlian that of El-Sahil,"
the shore. All the Ik-dnwin use tlie term "Tiliainat Madyan,"
The former word nuians a country enclosed by mountains, and
geuerully with an uidiealthy and oppressive climate; while
TahamJih, in these lands at least, is a modifir-ation confined to
the Ulaazah tribe. In the Kannis, of Firozabadi (nat. A.D, i:l28,
ob. A.D. 1414), "'iahnia" or '" Tuliiimuh '' is translated "land
sloping towards the sea," opposed to "Tihiimah," or lowland in
general. Th<> word therefore is classical, and Wallin seems not
to knew that when the Hedawi of Taif tohl him the inhabitants
call "Tiljiiinah " what other Arabs call *' Ilijdz " the inl'ormant
alluded to the "Tihamat el-Hejaz," or maritime lowland of tbo
Hejaz,
El Madaini informs us that the whole mountain-chain, ex-
tending JVinu Yemen idong tlie Bed Sea to }>yria, in fact the
western Gliats of Atubia, is called El-llejaz. Tlie term ailopted
*
• See ' Journel Roynl Geograpliicat Soowty,' vol. x.\., 1850. pp. 302. 30G.
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 45
by Goli'ns (Notse; p. 98); by Niebiilu- (Description, &c., p.
160); and by Caussin de Perceval {Essai mr ruistoire, ^c) ;
is utteiiy luikiiuwu to modern Arab usage. Similarly Ibn
Ayas names the range " El-Shera " through its whole extent.
Wallin may be right in making the eastern boundary of El-
Hejiiz a lino drawn from Tuif, via El-Medinah, to El-IIijr (or
rather the Wady Hamz) ; but he is wrong, at least regarding
present cu-stoni, to exelude I'roiu it tht? twu lirst-nauied towns.
Aguio \lv is mistaken when he asserts "if the line be continued
northwards from El-Hijax, alung the course of the eastern
parts of the Shefah chain as far as Wadl Ijithm (Yitm), it will
mark the eastern limit of the land to which the Bedawin now
give the name of El-Talianitih." The Bedawin draw the Hue
carefully between the Shafah and the maritime range; and thus
the sequel from the Coast eastward would be ; —
1. El-Sahil, or El-Tihamah, the coast plain.
2. .Tibal .jl-Tihamah, the "Ghats."
3. Kl-8haJal(, boundtiig the Tihilmah to the east.
4. El-Hismd, the eluvated strip of sandstone plain.
5. El-Harrah, the line of plulonic action.
Finally Wallin is quite right when he asserts that El-Hejaz,
El-Tihiimah and El-Shura "were originally specific names for
differ<nit parts of this region, and that they have been extended
by dilferent authors to the whole of it."
Whilst we examined the Fort, Mr. Clarke and Ali Mario
busied themselves with buying up such st<.ires as El-'Akubah
contains. I also made arrangements for u <lromedary-post, and
MTOte oflicially to Prince llusayn requesting that 11.11. would
exchange the Mukhhir for a steamer less likely to druwi» herself.
Moreover the delay at Maghair iShu'ayb bad exliaiisted our
resources ; and the Expedition urgently wanted a mouth s
additioual rations for men and beasts. The ap[tiication was, it
will be seen, granted in the most gracious nmnner; and the
orders were carried out with as little deluy as possible. Messrs.
Voltera Brothers were also punctual and satisfactory in for-
warding another instalment of necessaries and comforts. For
this postal service and by way of propitiatory gitts Shaykb
Mohammed received !^1U, of which ip'J. were probably disbursed ;
consequently we parted fast friends, ho giving me an especial
invitation to his house in the Hisma, and I accepting it
with the firm intention of visiting hun as soon as can be
managed. The officials of the Fort, who stayed with us to the
last, were profuse in kind expressions ; and in little gifts which,
as usual, cost us double their ^vorth.
I now resolved upon hastening back, with all speed, to El-
46 liURTON'^ Itineraries of the Second ETjmUtion into Midian.
Muwaylah, tinishing by the wav our hitherto successful task of
qnartz-prospectiug on the 'Akabah Gulf. We had already twee
heeu prevented by circumstance's from visiting the Hisma, and I
was detennined to devote all our energies to the exploration.
Feb. Sih. — The morning was floudy, misty, rainy : to the
north-west and south-west we saw — rare thing in arid Arabia —
two rainbows at one time. We set oiT, at 7.30 a.m., along the
Mjuuntain-wall of El-8harii, which, alter about three railed, trends
away to the south-east ; tlius difiering from the 8inailic side
where the roek-curtuin liugs the shore. The interval is a
broad and sandy tilope, here and there streaked with dark ridges
extending from tbe Gulf to the highlands. For the " elevated
stony plain grudiially rising from tlie sea" of the chart, read —
•' sandy ledge and occasional outcrops of rock, cut by a network
of huge W'adys which unite near the shore, declining from the
Jebel fl-Sbarii, and from those of EI-Tihamah." Evidently
the highlands aro primitive, but a wliito and jiurplc patch seen
from alar suggests a remnant of the Secondary.
After 2 hours 45 minutes, steaming at the rate of 4h knots
an hour, we ran (10.30 a.m,) into the fine-looking but open
and treacherous bay of Hagoul (Hakl Ij^).* 13 direct
geographical miles from El-'Akabah. This is the ^AyKoKij,
which rtoh^my (vi. 7. 2) places amongst his oppida mediter-
ranean in N. lat. 28^ 45' (true 29° 13'), between Madiama
(MaSu//ia) or Ulaghair Shu'ayb, iu N. lat. 28° 15' (true 28'' 28'),
and MuKva, the modern Makna or Madyan, in 38° 45' (true
28*" 24'). We had lieard of ruins iu this place, and a '' written
stone" to the south; but we could hardly expect anything
more int*?resting than at El-'Akabah ; and the M-idchhir was so
handled that she appeared to have every chance of scraping
acquaintance with the reefs and shores. I therefore ordered
the »>arobuk to touch at Makna, and to embark the specimens
left by Lieut. Yusuf on the shore ; whilst the steamer continued
her voyage southward.
The Arabian coast-line is here simpler than that of Sinai,
and, consequently, the chart had a better chance in all things
" barring " philology. A rounded projection separates El-Hakl
from tLe Mai'si'i ei-Humayzuh (a J^ .^^ ). so called from a
grass eaten by animals, and not to he couibunded with Humayz
( 1 -1'^) > the Egyptian form of fiummaz { ^\ . ^)> wild
florrel. It is entitled El-Kabir (the Great), in order to dia-
* In Arabic the word moans rich arablt land, or tilling the land — lienoe the
corrupted Greelc '' Anmilf ."
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. Al
tingiiish it from anotlier feature to the south. Thti broad
month of the Wady shows two lines of palms, one near the
right bonk, uud the other iu the middle, where the froud-huts
stand. After 6 J miles from El-Hakl, and nearly 20 from
El-'Akabah, we steamed along the islet El-Humayzah, which the
siirveyore have ahoniiiiably perverted to "Omeider:" from it
the lias el-Kamlah beara 273' (mag.).
South of tlie islet, and separated by a point of yellow sand,
is an «?xteasive inlet, the Ghabbat Humayzah : it is not on the
chart, although Wellsted (ii. 138) speaks of the "capacious
bay of Goohut HomaJdah " The black trap hills of the shore
here form a broken circle, wdiieh, on the up-voyage, we had
taken for a volcanic crater ; and the valleys of the Arabian
interior seemed from the ship to run 110" (mag.) ; * whilst those
of Sinai trend to 1;J0 . Beyond this outbreak, again, two wady-
mouths form shelters for native craft; and innumerable dry
Finmaras meet and intertwine, dotting the sand with shrubs,
whilst a mass of reefs outlies the shore. By day this Sahil
("shore-traet") is dr}', dusty, and ghmng enough; only for a
few minutes at even-tide it becomes a beautiful 8j>ectaele, an
enchanted scene, when the setting sun stripes it with broad
bars of purple and gold. Farther south, as wo approach tho
Slace of the Bir el-Mashi (" Well of the Walker "), where a
esert-track leads to the Wady Marsha, the hills become smaller,
and, approaching tlie sea, directly discharge into it their
rubbish. Tlie next feature is tho grand massif, the Jebel el-
Mazhafeh, whose length is appunmtly disposed perpendicular to
the coast-line. Its Hve blocks, becoming taller and larger as
they run iuland, •■iilminate in a topmost pinnacle to the east:
the lower cliffs fall clear into the sea, forming quaint black
gorges and ugly caverns, like those which break the precipices
of the Northern Ocean.
We passed an ugly night, onr third since leaving Suez, and,
of these, two were, under the circtirastances, really risky. At
4 P.M., the norJher again began to show its nasty tenijuT, and,
about an hour aiterwards, the speed was reduced from 4J to
3 knots, lest we should reach the Bughaz, or Straits of the
'Akabah Gulf, Ijefore dawn. At 7.30 p.m., we could see, under
a moon :»pproaching iier first quarter, the Smvayhil (" Little
Shore "). and its ancliorage-ground, in the sund-tract vomited
by the Wady that divides Tayyib Ism from El-Mazhafeh. Finally
about midnight it was necessary to turn the gun-boat's head
northwards, in order to ride out the furious gale-
the gnii
J"), but
tain of Gr»pe8 "), rnit wh coiilf) not lay dnvm its adte.
48 Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
Ffcl). 9tk. — Despite the storaiy weather, we passed safely out
of the 'Akahiih gate, and atiehored under the southern side of
the Tiraii Islaml.
Feb. liUh. — We examiDcd Tirsin Island : a ver)' curious
formation.*
Feh. llfh. — After Ihe narrowest possible espnpo from ship-
wrwk, wo run into the line natural hurlx)ur of Sinafir Island.
Feb. 12/'//. — Th<.' gale coutiuuitiir, we s1iu:k to Simitir.
Feb, 13f//,— We ran i'roni Sinallr to El-Mnwayluh, 50 knotSj
and 5 to G more to our old unfhorajjp, the Shartu Yuliarr, a total of
10 hrs. Concerninrj these five days nothing more need be said ;
the events were personal ; my little geography was done, and
the return is described, at full length, in my last volume.
Our journey through North Jliihan ('.Miidyan Proper) had
lasted f>4 days (Dcceml.ier IS), 1877, and Felmiary 13, 1878).
During nearly two months the Expt- fiition had coven-d only 106
miles of ground ; this, however, does not include the various
by-trips made by the members, which would more than double
thn total, nor the cruise round the villainous Meer-biiseii. of
'Akabah, The number of camels varied from 10-1 to 60, and
the total hire, including " bakhshish," amoniiteil, accoriling to
Mr. C Ularke, our muuagiug luau, to a total of 3l\iL 148. od.
Note on tiie "True Mount Sinai."
After these pages were written, I rend extracts from an
interesting paper published in the Jewish Monatschrifi for
August 1878. Dr. Graetz, the author, li«.s attempted to deter-
mine the site of Sinai and Uoreb by argiimenta j>urlly Biblical
and partly topographical. He observes that the texts (Deut.
xxxiii. 2; Judges v. 4-5; and Hiibak. iii. 3) distinctly point to
i>eir, or Edom, rather tluin to the peninsula now called Sinai ;
uls<^i that the first of tlie stuttons after leaving " Mount 8inai "
was the wilderness of Paiuti, in which lay Kadesh (Deut. xxxiif.
2). The Hebrews, when asking leave of the Pharaoh to go
and worshij) theii- God, specified three days as the length of
the journey. Dr. Graetz fixes the "Mountain of Law" on
Jebel 'Aniif, '* which out-toiis all the other mountains of the
neighbourhood : it is surrounded by table-hiud, and there are
traces of the Ibnced inclosures of a primitive people, probably
the Amalekites" (Palmer), No wells were found, so that the
Israelites at the neighbouring llephidim might easily sufiTer
from thirst. In Judges v. the poet speaks of Sinai as if it
were known — "This" (or yonder) -Sinai." The prophet
I
See 'The Laud uf Mldinn (l(ovij»iU'i!),' uhHji. viii,
is represented as readily reaching it from Beersheba
and Kadesh. I>r. GvixetT. makes the Yunim Suf (Sea of Weeds
or papyri), not Sirbouis (Brug^ch), nor 'Aliabab (lioke), but the
Timsah water or the Bitter Lakes, in early ages the undlonbted
head of the Gulf of Suez; and thus his Exodus would lie to
the N.N.E, of Egypt, The wbole paper should be read, as
the author inn^eniously accounts for tne topographical errors of
Biblical students which have lasted for bo many generations.
The subject has been exhaustively treated in ' The Hebrew
lligratioti from Egypt' (London, Triibner, 1879). A good
Tesult to be expected from these various opinions is that
presently " Mount Sinai " will disappear into that region of
myths, the land of Meru and Olympus and Meroe, from which
it emerged during the first centuries following the rise of
Christianity.
Part U.
TJie March through Eastern or Central Midian.
1. Work in and around El-Muwaylah. — At Eblluwaylah,
where the Expedition found itself onee ninrn united, I lost no
time in receiving the reports of Lieut. Yusuf, M. Philipin and
Shaykh Furayj, concerning the soutliern Jebcl el-Kibrit, and
their march from Makna. Tlioir details of tlio Sulphur Hill are
not worth chronicling, but tho itinerary is.
About 8 A.M. (Feb. (J) the camp set out from tlie old town of
"Madyan," with all the Shaykbs whose presence was tifljrially
required by tlie Ha[j-caravau at the I'ort. A total of 34
camels was charged for, if not employed. Tho line led up the
Wady Makna, before described, and presently struck the Wady
Mu'aytan ( A^jc^) between the Jebel el-Mab'iig east, and
the Fabisat Rock on the other side. In tho flanks of the
latter, as has been said, they found fine micaceous iron, and two
deposits of green " marii," showing copper. The quartz,
indeed, lasted the whole way to the Soufriere; and hills of
white gypsum were seen all along the road. After a total of
2^ miles they struck the great Wady el-Kharaj, before men-
tioned as bounding the Fabisat block to the east. At 9.17 A.M.,
after a total of 3f miles, they left it on the north, and turned into
a branch, the Bark el-Jemel ( \ ^-ciU ^ j), or " Surprise of
the Camel." A few minutes more led them to the Wady and
Jebel el-Ivish, alii Kiahuh (" of the Feather," here not an unusual
VOL. 3ULIX. E
50 BdetonV Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
name) : it is a collection of various-coloured liillocks described
as plutonic, risinjG^ out of the Secondaries: possibly it may be
88 rich as the Faliissit, After 1 hour ( = 2| miles) up the Bfsh
valley, they left the caravan to take the direct road to
'Ayminah, ascended the Wady Musayr ( ^^^.^). and again
turned off into a branch Shn'b, or Nakb. This ugly, narrow pass
placed them at their destination aboiit l.UO p.m., having tra-
velled 4 hours 20 minutes (-9 miles).
They ascended the bill after tithering their animals so
badly that Furayfs dromedary broke loose, and 3[. Philipin's
mule at once followed its example. Specimens were nur-
riedly collected, and the inspection lasted only ten minutes.
They then left the place at 2 p.m., and hastened to follow the
caravan, fearing^ not to catch it bi-fove nightfall. Pureuing
their way up the Wady Musayr, whose head was reached in
an hour, they crossed a broad Fiumarn, the Wady el-Wagab
(i__^ ), numing south-west to the sea. Then passing over
to Wadv Nakhil, and other beds, they camped at G P.M. in the
Wady Abii Zufrah ("of theZafrah plant " = Iphiona iwahra).
On the next day (Feb. 7) they feil into the Wady Jiyal
( U ^>s^ , that is, " of Circumambulating "), a kind of sink, whose
pahn-grounds extend about a quarter of a mile, and whose wells
and rain-pools are too brackish to drink. 11 J miles distant
from 'Aynunah, it looks from that station like a long, thin
tongue of sand. This is the Brumien el-Gear, which Euppell
(p. 231) places 4 stuiule (?.s.w. of his Thai Beden. Thence they
passed into the Wady 'Afal, whoso af<|uaintanco we had made
at Mnghair Shu'ayb; and, after marching over a low, sandy,
and nul!ah-cut maritime plain, they struck the Hajj road.
'Ayniinah was made in 4 haurs 40 minutes, a total of 9 hours
from lilakna. The general diroi-tion of the march lay to the
B.s.K., and the vSulphur Ilill w<\s to the west of it.
This work was very <-arelessly done. Ten minutes do not
suffice for a detailed plan. Moreover, I learned nothing con-
cerning the extent of the deposit ; the existence of wood and
water ; the distance from the coast ; and the best harbour of
exp-irt. I also wanted sj>eeiniens from the Jebol el-Fayniz, the
so-called turquoise-hill, to which a flying visit had been made
by Commander Ahmed during our northern march; so Lieut.
Yusuf was again sent northwards, with orders to bring home
careful ly-drawn maps, plans, and sketche:?. His party, cou-
sisting of three soldiers, three quarrymen, an Arab guide,
Jazi, and eight cnmels, left El-Muwayluh early on Feb. 18,
r
BdbT0N*5 Itineraries of (lie Second Expedition into Alidian. 51
and ia 11 hours reached the .Tebel oLFara', or northern
" Turquoise "-hill of the Arabs. He there passed a day, sprang
two mines, made a plan of the diggings, and generally eonlimied
the report of Ahmed Kuptan, except that no signs of work were
found. These veinlets, scattered at uncertain intervals in
the rockj confirm tbe idea that the material is silicate of copper,
certainly very rich, as some epecimens, when tested, yielded
40 per cent. ; but probably limited in extent. Finally, two
camel-loads (four sacks) of the malachite-like rock were sent
under the charge of a soldier to the Fort el-Muwaylah. It
ia possibly the "Snianigdus Cyprius" which Thoophrastiis
mentions as being found ia the copper-mines of our latest
acquisition, Cyprus.
On the next day (Feb. 21) Lieut Tusuf struck the Wady
'Aynooah after 2^- miles; and, turning to tlie left, or west, of
a straight line drawn thence to Makna, entered a country new
to travellers. Leaving to the right the Wady Mukhassab
(i^^^^i^), and its llamirah or red hill, be crossed the
plain subtending the seaboard, here a succession of broad
watercourses, the Wudys El-Huraybah i^Jb)' "^^ ^« ^"^^
War," Dakk el-'Erin ( .,jt]\ ;3), the " Pounding of cooked
Meat," and Abii Kusaybah (a ■■,^<). "of the Reedlet." Ho
found the great Wady 'Afal disem boguing into a portlet, the M'inat
el-'Ayanat (,^\j\_^), "of springs," useful to Sanibuks; it has
a sickle-shapxl natural breakwater like that of Siuaitic Mar.sa
Ginai, curving from west to south, and resembling the
curious features so common on the north-western coast of
Iceland. He then crossed the Wadys Giyal (Jiyiil), before
described, the Zaramah (^^ ^), " of the Lavender," the Abu
Zufrah (^v ^), "of the Iphiona," and the 'Ishsh ; nighting at
the latter after a march of 7 hours 40 miuutes ( = 23 miles).
On the next day (Feb. 27) the travellers, starting early.
crossed the Wadys Sanam i V. ) el-Hamar, and Wagab
(Wajb), about which is the oft-mentioned Klinht or grazing-
gTOuncl. From the last-named watercourse they entered a
detile, devious, barren and rocky ; the diflieulties of the camels,
however. lasted only for about 10 minutes, and the impedi-
ments were easily removed by the soldiers and the miners.
An hour of this pass placed hini at the Jebel el-Kibn't after a
E 2
52 Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
march of 5 hours 35 miautes (= 16f miles). The total distance
from 'Aynunah was thus 39f miles in 11 hours 15 minutes,
which appears to me excessive.
Lieut. I usufa two joumala, checking each other, his survey
and his specimens eaublo me t^D describe this Soitfriere with
more or less accuracy. The hill is a long oval of 440 yards
(east-west) by a maximum of 200 (north-soutli) : the first plan
gave it a diameter of only 130-1 GO yards. It extends, how-
ever, branches in all directions; the mineral was also found in
a rounded pifon, a knob in tlie Wady Musayr attached to the
north-eastern side. The flattened dome is 50 fiO feet hijsrh,
and tlie 2«<o« 110. The metal, imdei'lying a dark crust, 5 or
0 inches thick, appears like regular crystals and amorphous
fragments of pure brimstone in the chalky sulphate of lime.
This gypsum was ascertained to extend all over the adjacent
hills; and the important point, which now remains for de-
termination, is whether sulphur-veins can bo f<jund diffused
throughout this non-plutonic formation. No blasting was liere
required ; the soft rocks yielded readily to the pick.
Lieut. Ynsuf fixed his position by climbing the adjacent
hilla Thence Sinafir ♦ bore 190", and Shu'shu' • 150^ (both
mftOTetic). Greater elevations to the west shut out the view
of lofty Tin'tn, and even of the iSinaitic rauge ; but he had
roasou to think that the sea-shore to the south lay at a distance
oi only 3-4 miles (geographical). The nearest water reported
to bo in the Wady el-Nakliil to the north-east, was at 2 nours'
march (=5 miles) with loaded camels.
On Feb. 23 the party set out for the M'inat Hamdaa
( . i^iX*^.)) b'"^8 between Makna and Dabbah : the distance is
9 miles; and 35 minutes were occupied in threading an ngly
rocky pass. The cove is a port for ^ambuks; defended, like,
the roadstead of " Madyau-town," by high ground to the
north. Thence the road led southwards along the shore for
1 hour 5 minutes ( = 3^ miles) to Sharm Dabbah, the "Sharm
Dhaba, goo<l anchorage," of the chart. Possibly one of the
many excellent pjrts mentioned by Procopius,! it is now
barren and broken by masses of reels and shoals. The head
receives the Wady SLa'ab el-Gann ( ,\mj), "Watercourse of the
Ravine of the Jinns," flowing from a haunted hill of red stone,
near which no Arab dares to sleep. From that point the travel-
• In Arabic "Suuifir" would be " pure" or '■ unmiiod" ; but I prefer referrinr
tbe name to Pbaraoh Sesoferu. Sbu'ahu' ia npitareatly corrupted from Sba'aLa ,
tbe "long (tttl&udj."
t See vol. i. p, 323.
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian, 53
lera struck south-east for 9^ miiea to Ghubbat Suwayhil, the
"Gulf of the little Shore," Tliis roadstead, also useful only
to small native craft, lies eastward of the lonj^ point, Kas
fcshaykii Ilamid, the " Ras Fartak " of the chart, which forms
the Arabian staplo of the 'Akabah " gate," and whore the coast-
line of north Midiau bends at a right an^Ie eastward. Adjoin-
ing it to the east, and eeparated by a long thin spit, ie the
Ghubbat el-Wagab (Wajb), the mouth of a watercourse simi-
larly named: it is also known to the Katirah, or smaller
vessels, smd about a mile up its bed, which comes from the
north-east, there is a well of potable water (?). According to
Jazi, the guide, this " ghubbat, ' distant only 4--5 hours of slow
marching from the Sulphur llill, would bo tho properest place
for shipping produce. Such details will prove useful when
the Eulphur-mines of nortli fliidian shall be ripe for working.
From the Ghubbat cl-Wagab the track, easy travelling over
flat ground, strikes to the uorth-east ; and, after 14^ miles, joins
the 'AjTuinah Suhani or highway. On February 2dth, at the
end of nine days' work, Lieut. Yusuf returned to EI-3Iuwaylah
with two eacks of sulphur-bearing chalk, justifying his former
report. As will appear, the main body of the Expedition was
still travelling through the interior. Having halted for rest at
El-Musvaylab, he rejoined us on the route from Ziba; and I
again found occupation for him.
At the Sharm Yabarr, immediately upon our happy return
(February 18th), preparations began for a march to the Hisina.
'I'his word, which will often recur, in pure Arabic ends witli
** Ya-alif," and means a plain in the desert whose mountains are
rarely free from dust. The Shaykhs and the carael-men, how-
ever, dreading a rough reception from their hereditary foes,
the Beni Ma'azah, threw in my way a variety of small obstacles,
which were not removed without time and trouble. Meanwhile
we carefully examined our harbour of refuge. In its northern
feeder the Wady el-Harr (" hot Water-course "), of which possibly
Ydbdrr is a corruption, we were shown some fine specimens of
oligistic iron and admirably treated modern (?) slags : evidently
some gypsy-like atelier must once have worked here. The
obsidian also has apparently been subjected to artificial heat ;
and a splinter of it contains a faHldte of free copper, Tw«
beds of oysters were discovered ; and, armed with tnis know-
ledge, we afterwards found them in every bay. A small col-
lection has been thrown by my gallant and lamented friend the
late Admiral McKillop (Pasha) into the port of Alexandria,
where, let us hope, they will become the parents of a fine large
family of " natives."
1 now applied myself to working the central Jebel el-Kibrit,
a
54 BtrRTON'-i Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Altdian^
which had been superficially explored by the first Xhedivial
Expedition. The shortest cut from the " dock-harbour " lies
up the southern Wady Harr. An important divide separates
it from the Wady Jemayyis (
t^fS*--*^
),* over which winds the
broad track of the Pilgrim-c-aravan. Thia watercourse ends,
like most of its neighbours, in a reef-barred creek of lapis-
lanuli coloured sea-water. Tbencc the track fell into the Wady
Khirgeh {.Xji^^^}, where we found large blocks of the hydrous
silicate, a Berpentiue coloiii'ed deep olive-green. It passed
forwai'd into the Wady el-Bayza ('* White Nullah "), which turns
abruptly westward, and enters a second reef-closed biglit: thia
valley was gay with the light-green foliage of the 'Amk ; and
Already tender floweret.s were beginning to sprout from the
sands. Lastly, after 1 hour 15 minutes of sharp walking, we
entered the broad Wady el-KibHt, wliich comes from the south-
east, and whose bed supplies drinkable water at no great
distance. It rounds the Sulphur Hill to the south-cast ; and
feeds the Wady el-Jibbah, itself a feeder of the Sharm Jibbah.
In my first volume I erroueously wrote " Jubbab," like the
" Joobbah " of the chart.
This central " Suljthur Hill " is an isolated knob rising
abruptly from wady-ground ; measuring in height some 240
feet (aneroid below, 30' 14, and on top, 29-iJO) ; and about 960
yards in diameter, not including a tail of four vertebrEc which
sets off from north-west to soutli-east. Viewed from the north,
it is, as the Egyptian officers remarked, a regular Haravi
^Pyramid), with a imiform capping of precipitous rock. It
oiners essentially from the otht!r two deposits, the northeru
near Makna, and the suutheni near El-Wijh, in being plutonic
and not sedimentary; and yet there is a mound of gypsum
to the south-eiist. The altered condition of the granite, the
greenstones and other adjacent rocks, suggests that it may be
an igneous vein thrown westward by the great volcanic line,
El-Harrah. In parts it is a conglomerate, where a quantity
of quartz takes the place of chalk and plaster. Other deposits
are iron-stained, and have the ajtpearauce of decompused iron.
pyrites, an ore which abounds in the neighbourhood. Usually
the yield wears the normal brimstoTie-yelluw ; yet some of the
beds show the deep ochreous red, so common iu the solfataras of
Iceland, and supposed to be the result of molecular change,
perhaps of longer exposure to the atmosphere. At Cairo I have
'
From Jams, a kind of plunt.
Botiton'* Itineraries oft/ie Second Expedition into Midian. 55
heard of botli varieties being fouud in tlie old sea-clifT, the
Jebel Muknttam.
M. Philipiu and a small party, one sergeant and nine quarry-
men, were directed to sink wells, 40 feet deep, round the
Eyramid, wherever surface indications suggested : old ex{>erieuce
ad taught me that snch depth is necessary to strike brimstone-
beda like those of Sicily- The borings brought up sulplnir
from 4(3 feet ; six more were pierced, but they yielded
nothing. During his sixteeu working-days he sank five pits
in and around the pyramid ; the northern tuost shaft, halfway
up the hill, also gave crystals of the purest sulphur. And if
the depth be not great, the surface extent is. The pyramid
evidently forms the apex of a large vein trending north-south.
The field consists of this cone and its dependencies, especially
the yellow cliffy to the north and the south, facing, in the
latter Jirection, a large j)laiii cut by the Wady el-Kibrit ; while
a vein of the red variety, nearly .3 miles long by 25—30 inches
broad, lies to the south-east near the gypsum-hill. The
latter, again, yielded the crystalliaed salt which so often ac-
companies sulphur t the Bodawin brought in small specimens
of rock-crystal and fragments of neyro-quortz, apparently rich
in metal, I'rom the hill-masses to the east and south.
Feb. 11 th. — At o P.M. we left the gunboat MaJchhir for
the camp at El-Muwa_vlah. The path from Sharm Yabiirr, now
well-trodden, crosses a sandy plateau, metalled with the usual
dark stones and silexes of the Desert. The horizontal lines of
the wady buttresses argue submergence, emergence, and, l.-istly,
the cutting out and fasliioniiig of the torrents. The plain is
deeply gashed by twt) short, broud and sandy gullies ; where
cliQ's of coralline and sfindstone-couglonieratc*, resting upon
unsolid foundations, oiten cave in. The Hajj mad, running
farther east, heads tJiese ugly nullahs. The third valley is
the great \Vady .Surr ('* making glad "), the de facto southern
frontier of "Madyan Proper" (North Midian) : we shall trace
it to its head in the Hi^mn. Here, near the mouth, it is at
least a mile and a hijt' broad; the torrent, which flows only
after the heaviest rains, swings to the southern bank away from
the palm-orchai-ds. On the right side are the gtu'den-plots of
vegelatioD, and the tobacco cultivated by the garrison.
Feb. lS//i.— We visited and planned the ruins called Abu
Hanawit (kj-W).' of the "Father of (dwelling) Walls,"
described in * Tho Laud of Midian (Revisited).' These remains,
• I presTune tho word to be a local and peculiar plural of " HiUt," trhich gene-
nlly forms " llUdu " and " Hiynt."
■
and the vestiges of furnaces lying near tlio north-eastern tower
of the Fort, prove that, despite Wallin (p. 300), EI-Muwaylali
is an ancient Bettlt-nicut. Possibly it is the "Itttto*? Kw/ii;, tlie
Horse Village {and fort?) which I'tolemv {VI. vii.) places in
N. lat. 2fr 40' {true 27" 39'); whilst his ''Itttto? opo<: wonld be
the glorious Sharr, to which ho almost correctly assigns K. lat.
27" 20'. Wo vainly asked, however, about the Wady Maktub,
the written or inscribed valley, placed by Kiippell two days east
of El-Muwaylah.
JI. In fJie Eisind. — The exploring party was now ready for the
most serious part of its undeilaking, a journey to the eastern
regions, where the comparatively quiet and submissive tribes,
subject to Egypt, encounter the robber-races that levy tribute
from, instead of payjjig tribute to, the equally despotic and
detestable Turkish Government of Syria. The expedition was.
divided into four. As has been said, Lieut. Yusuf was sent
north and M. Philipiu wiis stationed south ; while the Greek
dragoman and hi.s a.ssistant remained as n^agazine-raen at th&
Fort el-Muwnylaii : here also were left bphind the sick officers-
and men. The main body consisted of Mr. Clarke, MM. Marie
and Lacaze, Ahmed Kaptiin, and Lieut, Amir; of two sergeants
commandmg the ritlemen (Eemingtuns), with an equal number
of quarrymen ; the whole escorted by the Sayyid and by the
three salaried isliaykhs, including our friend Furayj. Thia
reduced the number of camels to sixty-one, and greatly facili-
tated marching.
Feb, lfl<?i,— At G.30 a.m. we left El-Muwaylah, riding up
the Wady Surr, and 1 hour 15 minutes (=3 miles) led uft
past the Abu llawiiwit ruins before mentioned. After travel-
ling a total of 2 hours 45 minutes we found the Wady Burr
becoming the gorge of the normal type ; it is walled by old
conglomerates of large elements forming dwarf preci pices, some
40 feet high; and it receives a multitude of sandy influents,,
many reported to contuin drinkable wrater. The principal
features with name.s on the right bank arc ; the Sha'ab el-Jeoel
^oilih (^^iJ^^), a nullah about a quarter-mile broad ; the Jebel-
el-Najil(, Ij^nj);* the Wady UmmShek/ik(;\Jij^), or "Mother
of Clefts," and the Wady Umm Muzayrikat ( (jj\3 ^ • <), dis-
tant about 2 miles from the Najil. The left bank showed the
Wady and Jebel Zalilattah (*0cl:5^-o)> *^^ Jebel el-Hummah
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 57
(a ^^), " of great beat," and tlie red pile of Jebel Sraysarab,
whose watercourse also feeds the Surr. After 3 hours 15
mioutes (= C very slow miles) of actual tnarchiog and much
dismoiintiDg, we halted for rest and refloctiou at a loug piece
of water in the section of the Surr wliich receives the Wady
el-Najil. TLe pits proved that the sands rest upon tlie usual
tenacious clay ; hesides flocks of sheep and goats, game — bare
and partridge — was found ; and a thorn-tree on the upper
heights, instead of in the valley, was a pleasant and unusual
spectacle.
We resumed the way about noon, remarking that the cha-
racteristic trap and porjihyries now formed in the granite
great veins, which dwarfed by comparison thuBe of the quartz ;
whilst the sole was scattered with bard water-rolled serpentines
and felspars, whose dovc-coloured surfaces showed silver-white
fibrils. Riding another hour (=4 miles) to the eastward— ft
total of 4 hours 15 minutes (^ 10 miles) — we suddenly saw our
tents pitched in a widening of the Surr bed kuoi^n as El-Safh
fthe level of) Jebel-Maluyh : the latter word is the Doric
Bedawi form of '' Blulib," a hill which we shall afterwanls visit.
The wide and almost circular btisin receives and collects the
produce of many large nullahs. To the north is the Wady el-
Guwaymarah dy^Ji)', to the north-east the Wady "Ma-
layh;" to the east the upper course of the Wady Surr, and to
the south-east the Wady iiusayb. The Surr gurgc here shows
gloomy and precipitous walls of dark and polished trap, con-
trasting strongly with the glaring yellow sole of stone, gravel,
and sand ; and, about a mile up it, drinkable water and palm-
bush appear. The Wady Kusayb was reported, falsely as we
afterwards found, to contain '• Hawawit " (rains).*
Feb. 20lA. — Yesterday wo had come out of our way to inspect
the Surr, that is, we Lad travelled eastward instead of north-
eastward. ConsequeiUly the whole of this march was northerly,
in order to strike the main commercial road connecting EI-
Muwaylah with Tabiik.f From the sea-board the Surr, which
drains the northern and eii-stern flanks of the Shdrr mountain-
block, appears the directest lino into the interior; we shall
Eresontly see the reason why the devious upper line is preferred
y the trader.
The usual road lies up the Wady Guwayraarali, whose eastern
bank shows extensive gneiss and schistose formations. From
this point the little detached rock, Umm Jedayl, with grey
* March H proved that tlie informnnta hod drawn upon tlieir fancies,
t Vol. i. chilli. *•
58 Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midiaju
granites gleaming white over tlie dark-red and brown foot-hills,
assumes the shape of a saddle-back : its crupper was pointed
out to us as the site of a ruined citj> " El-Khulasah " ( jl-./^I^).*
After walking about half uii hour, wo turned eastward into the
Wady el-lihulasah, whoso vegetation was charming alter the
sterility of the coast. Our guide led us towards the Sharr,
that is, with our backs turned to this day's cauiping-ground ;
and, when we had walked 1 hour oO minutes (=4^ miles),
he confessed that El-Khulasah was unknown to him. He added
that the site of auotlier ruin, Ei-Zubayyib, was about 2 miles
distant, a little beyond a bright red peak " Aba '1-bat id " on
the left bank of the Khulasuh Fiumara. The Bedawin of
Midiau universally use the ftccusative (Aba) wlien others would
prefer the nominative, Abii: apparently this change takes
place before the article as "Aba 'I-Mani;" not when it is
absent, as in " Abii Hawavnt."
Mr. Clarke rode off with the guide ; and, instead of hugging
Aba '1-barid, behind which a short watero<jui'se was the
straightest way, ho stmck to tlio right of tbe Khulasah,
crossed a rough divide, and fell, after riding some C instead of
2 miles, into the upper section of the Wady Surr. On its right
bank he found the ruins which we shall presently visit, t
Meanwhile we retraced our steps dowu the Wady, whose
Jebel (El-Khulasah) lay now to our left. The lower valley
shows a few broken walls, old Arab graves, and other signs of
ancient habitation ; but I am convinced that, despite all our
exertions, we missed the ruins whleli lay Bomewliere in the
neighbourhood. Presently on our left tlio Wiidy K hind rah leaves
the Wady Kuwaymarah, and falls iuto the seu 1 mile north of
" Shaykh Abdullah," patron saint of El-Muwaylah. To the
right lay the western foot-hills of the Umni Jedayl, especially
the Jebel ol-Ramzah, with its red crest and veins. The path
ran over granitic gravel, strewed with quartz, whole and broKen,
like the land about the Jebel el-Abyaz ; much of it seemed to
come from the Wady Umm Jedayl el-Atshau ( \ z-)^^). the
" Thirsty," as opposed to EUKawivan, the " Oowiug." We
advanced to a fine valley, the Sayl Wady el-Jimm ; and now I
learnt, for the first time, that El-Jimm { ^-^^ is the name
not of a height, but of a Shu'b or gully in which water collects
(x-*j3^L>)' I" "^y ^^^' i-. t^hap. v., where occur several differences
• The celebrated idol of tlie Aden Arabs was called El-Khalasat.
t See part ii. sioct. v., Murch 1.^.
of nomenclatare, the Jcbel el-Jimm was mentioned as the
mountain of the truncated tower, when the latter is a mere
saddle-back in the Dibbagh (^3) block. The Wady « Zojeh "
(p. 128) should be Wady Klishahriyyah. As regards the names
"Fara' el-Samglii "' and "Abu Zayn" (ibid.), I could learn
nothing : in p. 129, tiie dome-capped rock is wrongly called
" Abu Zayn,' instead of Jebel Harh. For the latter, «liich is
ignored (note, p. 128), see chap, xiii., ' The Laud of Midian
(Bevisited).' " Sadr," also, is made a mountain, instead of a
great wady.
The Eastern Ghats now show a break in the line of axis
separating the Umm Jedayl from its northern neighbour, the
tower'd Dibbagh. It is generally known as the Wady Kh'shab-
riyyah (^ \ ^.>^.L ). after its Jebel of the same name, a
remarkable peak which it drains to the "Wady Sadr. The valley,
apparently a fine road, is, they say, closed to camels by Wa'r,
or stony ground; of its ruins we shall presently hear more.f
W^e drank the Avater of the Sha'b Eidayh {^^^ X The total
march occupied 4 hours (= 10|- miles), and the rhumbs were
north, north-east, west, and again north.
Feb. 2\st. — We set out at G.30 a.m. across the broad Sayl
(torrent-bed) towards a bay in the mountains bearing n.n.W.
This is the mouth of the Wady Zamuirah, which, after running 2-3
miles falls into the Wady Tiryam. -:Vfter walking 30 minutes we
entered its eastern branch, the Wady el-Liw<5wi {^^S),X the
« Weiwi " of Wallin (p. 30-1). We passed east of the Jebel of
the same name; and a short cut, the 81ni'b el-Li wewi, led over
a groat northern bend in the bed. The path was uild riding and
very winding, at times turning almost due east when our general
direction was n.n.e. Ketui-uing to the Wady Liwewi, and ascend-
ing it for a few yards, we began the second short cut of 5U minutes
to save a 2 hours' bend ; tlie deep drops, and the narrow gutters
in the quartz-veined granite, compelled even the Shaj'khs to
dismount from their dromedaries during the descent. This
section is called the Wa'r el-Ga'gah («i^js-ot^)§ cdio-& Sa-
wawin, the latter also the name of a valley farther on.
After a ride of 3 hours 10 minutes (= y miles), we baited
* See, however, part iL sect v.
t Part ii. sect. v.
j Liiwii vould ineno winding (b rnlli'j).
§ In pure Arabic Jn'js' would be rough groand, a bad defile.
Burton'* Itineraries oftlte Second Expedition into Midian.
at the conjunction of the Wady Liwewi with the Sadr (the chief
or pre-eminent). The latter is the upper course of the Wady
Tiryam, and we shall follow it to its head. The Wudys Kahlah
ancl Zamahrah, which, during our first journey, had hcen
described lo us as the main passes over the eastern range,
pnjved to be mere secondary branches lying north of the Wady
Sadr. \V''alltn, whose line was a little north of ours, calls the
first " El-Kahale " (i.e. of the Echiutn or borage-plant), and
traveUed up it, for 1 hour 20 minutes ; its north-eastern pro-
longation, " ^Vl-HuleikS, " (El-Hulaykah, tbe "Little shaven "),
separates the Fas and the Harb blocks ; and I heard also of a
Nakb el-Hulaykah.
At the junction of the Liwewi-Sadr we were joined by the
caravan, which had made three long legs, to north, to north-
east, and to east. We now struck up the W'ady Sadr, a scene
wild and weird enough for Scotland or Scandiuavia. Ou the
right or southern bank towers the great Ilarb mass, whoso
dome, single when sighted from the west, hero shows three
several heads. Opposite it, at the northernmost end of the
Dibbagh block, rises the huge tower conspicuous from the sea-
board : a little farther eastward, it will prove to bo the
monstrous pommel of a dwarf saddle-back. As it has apparently
no name, we called it the " Burj Jebel Dibbagh."
The Wady Sadr was deserted nf man, altliough the Ma azah are
not far off. The Beni 'Ukbuh had temporarily abandoned these
grazing grounds for the Surr, Passing the Sha'b Turbau, a
cleft in the Dibbagh, said to contain rain-water, after another
hour ( = .1 miles), and a total of 4 hours lU minutes { = 11 miles),
we halted for the night at the mouth of the Sayl el-Nagwah
{it^:^iS), of " High Ground." This torrent-bed lies at the foot
of the granite block, an outlier of the Dibbagh, similarly
named (from tanning?). Its gap, the Sha'b el-Murayfaf,
supplied us with tolerable rain-water. The sole of the Sadr
was parti-coloured. The sands of the deeper line to the right
are tinctured coo! green by the degradation of the porphyritic
traps, here towering in the largest masses yet seen ; whilst the
gravel of the left bank looks warm with red grit and syenitic
granite.
Feb. 22nd.— \Vo left the NaOT-ah at 7 a.m., and passed on
the right a granite outcrop in the wady-bed, a reduced copy of
the "Burj." After an hour's slow walk ( = 2^ miles), we were
led, dismounted, to a rock-spur projected northwards from the
left or southern bank. It separates two adjacent " Sayls," mere
bays in the Dibbagh block, the western Sha'b Burayrig
(Burarayg ?), from tlie Eastern Sayl Umm I^aban : they front
Bdrton'* Itineraries of the Second Erpedition into Mulian.
the Sha'b el-Nararali (of the " she Leopard ") on the northern
bank, a Hue which is said to contain water and palms. Upon
the rock-spur we found spalled quartz, traces of a zigzag road,
jvnd signs of an atelier ; but the settlement, if there ever was
one, hatl entirely disappeared.
Reauraing our ride, we dismounted after 1 hour 15 minutes
( = 4 miles) at the half-way JIahattah (halting-place), a rond-
point in the Wady 8adr, marked from afar by a tall blue
pyramid, the Jebel el-Ga'lah (jjjts^).* We spent some time
examining this interesting bulge. Here the Jibiil el-Til»Amah
end, and the eastern parallel range, the .Jilwl el-Shafalr, begin.
The former belong to the Huwaytat and to Egypt : the latter
to the Ma'azah and Syria. The Irontier is well defined by two
large watercourses, running ne^irly on a meridian, and both
finding the main drain, the great Sadr-Tiryam. Tlie northern
branch, Wa*ly Sawadah, divides tlie granitic group from the
porphyritic Jebel Sawidah; the southern, Wady Aylan ( ^W'
separates the Dibbagh from the Jebel Avian.
The rest of our march eastwards will now lie through the
Shafah liange. It resembles, on the whole, the Tiljamah
Ghats ; but it wants their charms. The granites which farther
west pierced the traps, Wallin's " dark brown sandstone "
(p. 305), now appear only at intervals. This I urn told is the
case throughout the northern prolongation of the '* Lip Itange :"
for instance, in the Wady branch separating Jebel Urnub from
its southern neighbour, the Jebel Fas; and in the Wadv el-
Halaykah, the watercourse immediately south, feeding the Wady
el-Kahlah. In the southern "Shafah" we saw it for ourselves.
At the same time there is no distinct separation, no wide plain,
between the two parallel ranges, the maritime and the inland.
They are topographical continuations of each other.
At the halting-place, we first made acquaintance with the
Ma'dzah, and the meeting was decidedly uuplea.sant. About
11 A.M. wo remounted, crossed a Wa'r to save time, and again
fell into the upper Wady Sadr. Here the right bank receives the
Wady Sawawin (Suwaywin), draining the eastern mountains.
Wallin (p. 305) ascended its " difficult track," and found it
encumbered with huge stones and detritus from the adjacent
blocks. Its pass, the "very steep defile," Nakb el-Sav\iwin,
placed him at Wady Rawiyan, beyond the crest of the Ilisma
plateau.
From the right bank of the Sadr, the branch Wady Sahliilah
* Ga'Iab moans cither u worthless palia-trec, wboae Crait CftQBot be plucked,
or a young palm-bUoot.
■
i
(tOiijL-o) ^^"^ to the Wady and Jebel Gahil (JaLd,
Struggling"), the quartz-region before explored by Lieut.
Amir. AVe followed various beads to the south and the south-
east, with a general south-south-eastern direction, the Jibal
'Azzazah {y\ * r,) being on our right. The plains were scat-
tered with women tending aheep and goats ; the former bare
a fine "tog," and sell tor §3;^. At last we came to another
Wa'r, and, on the right side of the rooky tongue, where the
nortliern face falls pretty stifl3y into the valley, we found a pot-
hole of rain-water rejoicing in the grand name "Muwah (for
Miyt(h) el-Rikab" — ^the " Waters of the Caravan."
After a second spell of 2 hours ( = 7 miles), and a total of
5 hours 15 minutes ( = 13^ miles), we again camped in the Sadr
Valley. Tho altitude was about 3200 feet (auer. 27-80) ; and,
thougli tho thermometer showed UC (F.) at 5 P.M., fires inside
as well as outside the mess-tent were required. A wester
(sea-breeze), deflected by the ravines to a norther, was blowing
hard ; and in tliese regions, as in the far north of Europe, wind
makes all the difference of temperature. During the evening
we were visited by the Ma'azah Bedawin of a neighbouring
encampment : they began to notice stolen camels, and to
wrangle over past times — auotlier bad sign.
Fei. 2'3rd, — Setting out at 0.45 on a splendidly clear
morning, when the towering heads of ilarb an<l fJibbagh
looked only a few furlongs away from us, we imprudently
preceded as usuah the escort ; an excessive timidity on the
part of our men had made us rash. "Walking 30 minutes
( = 1§ mile) we passed some black tents on tho loft bank, and
the Ma'azah, at once lighting their matchlocks, maimed a
rocky narrow in the upper bed, and set up their war-song.
We were advised to halt till our soldiers and Arabs came up
with a run, and then it tunied out that "tliere had been some
mistake." But as the women, children, and animals remained
in the tents instead of flying to tho hillK, I felt convinced that
tho demonstration had been ordered from head-quarters, with
the object of infusing into our spirits a wholesome awe. I
ended by taking a Ghafir, or ''guide," and both parties went
their ways rejoicing.
The upper Sadr, winding through the usual red and green
lulls, showed a much finer vegetation, the eftVict of inereewing
altitude. The chief |>lants were the thorny Kidad (Astragalus
ForsMhlit) ; the purple huglose, El-Kuhh'i {Eehium) ; the Jarad
thorn, the wild hyacinth; Lavandula, t:?alvin. Verbena, lleseda
{canescensf), Tribulus (teirestris), and the red and yellow
■
BtTBTON'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 63
Bromus grass; with tlie familiar Cassia (Senna), Artemisia
and Cncumis (Colocynthua) ; the Genista, or broom, Katama (B.
BcUama),* and the Cytisus, vnth. goUk'H bloom. Presently it
opened upon a large basin, the Ifas (head) Wady Sadr : this
is the second Arab stage from El-Muwaylah. In iront of ujs
the Jibal Sadr extended far to the right and left, a alight
depression showing the Khuraytat, or Pass, wbich was to be
ascended on the morrow. To the left (north) appeared the
Jebel and AV^ady el-Safra, discharging a quantity of (jjUartz and
syenite. At the mouth of this " yellow " watercourse stood
a knob of hill, the Jebel, concerning which the wildest tales,
golden gleam by day, and fire by night, had been told to us.
We reached our tents in 3 hours ( = 9 miles), travelling gene-
rally to the E.S.E., and found them pitched below the Jebel
Kibar ( A^), whose Sha'b lay to the sonth. From this
point the Harb apex bore 303°, the Dibbagh 285^ and the
Sahhdrah, a blue peak visible from the sea, 274'' (all mag.).
We were remounting to ascend a neighbouring hill which
commands a prospect of the Ilisma plateau, when we sighted
from afar the Maazah chiefs riding in to meet us. They num-
bered five, viz., the head-Shaykh, Mohammed bin 'Atiyyuh ;
his son Salira; his brother, the wrinkled Sagr (Sakr); and his
two nephews, 'Ali and 'Abayd. Everything went off well at
the formal reception, and they agreed to escort us up the Pass
on the morrow. The aneroid showed a height of 3000 feet
(2ii"91, the mean of three obs.), and the violent wind at mid-
night sank the mercury to 38^ (F.). It wtis intensely cold.
Feb, 24ith. — Overcoming the last objeetions of our uidiitppy
Huwaytat, who felt themselves lieing led into the lion's den,
we struck tents and set out at 7.15 A.M. About 1 hour
( = li mile), over rough and rocky ground, leads to the
northern pass, called Khuraytat el-Hisma, or El-Jils ( ^^j^)?
JuU meaning in classical Arabic " a higli hill, a hani imd
broken surface." Thus it is distinguisheiifrom the Khuraytat
el-Ziba (the " Ziba-pass "), because leading to that port ; ulias
Khuraytat el-Tehiimah, the ila'azi pronunciation of "Tiha-
mah." This was remarked by Wallin (j). 305), who wrote
"Al-Taharaa."
The zigzag path now ascends a ladder of rocks, following the
line of a mountain torrent, the natural pass, crossing its bed
from left to right; and again from right to left. It is the
nidest of eomicJies, worn by the feet of man and beast, and
• Tbia Dame for the Spartiam ia puis Hebrew (On*l).
64 Bcrton'j Itineraries of the Second Ejqmlition into Midian.
broken by ugly abrupt turns. The absolute height was about
450 feet (aner. 2(j*70- 20-25), the length half a mile, and the
general direction lay, like the day's march, due east (mag.).
The ground, composed mainly of irregular rock-steps, offers
little difficulty to horse and mule ; but it was a marvel to me
how the laden camels ascended and descended without acci-
dent.
We halted on the Saf h el-Nakb, the " Level (summit) of the
Piiss," to await the caravan, an<l to prospect the surrounding
novelties. Heaps of dark trap dotted the lip, like old graves;
many stones were inscribed with Wusiim (^-^,), or tribal
marks; and two detached pebbles bore | H ^"^ V L which
looked exceedingly like Europe. Some of the piles were
capped with suowy lumps of quartz, to serve as memorials,
a common practice iu these regions. We picked up copper-
stained quartz, like that of 'Ayuiiuah ; fine Hpccimens of iron
and dove-coloured serpentine, witli silvery threads and streaks.
We then ascended the Jebel el-Khuraytah, a trap hillock
some 120 feet high, and had a fine vie^v westward through the
inverted arch formed by the two staples of the Pass, and down
the long valley (Sadr) which had given us passage. Hence the
Harb dome bore 3(.KJ\ the Dibbagh apex 280", the Umra Jedayl
268'', and the middle fcsharr 240" (all mag.). The eastern faces
of these coast giants appear well above the Shafah range, and
our attitude, some 3800 feet, gave us, to a cei-tain extent,
a measure of their grand proportions. Down the Sadr the
eye distinguishes a dozen distances, whose several planes are
defined by all the shades of colour that the most varied vege-
tation can show. And hero I must delay for a time, to explain
the change of scone and region.
We now stand upon the westernmost edge of the great cen-
ti-al Arabian plateau known as El-Nojd, the higliland, opposed
to El-Tihainali, the lowland, regions. In Africa we shoula call it
the '' true," subtending the " false " coa.'it ; beautiful Dahome
compared with liideous Lagos. The Arabian geographers justly
observe that the valleys of the Tihiiinah descend westward to
the sea, whilst those of the Nejd drain eastwards to inner
Ajabia. Again they distinguish tlio flora. The former pro-
duces the Mimosa iSamur)* the Acacia (A. gnmuiifera), and
the Tamarisk {ABalX)^ whereas the latter grows the "shrub
called GhadA."
• The botanists have adopted tiie pluml of the " Samanit " na a singulnr.
t Mr. AyrUiii, in hia notes in ' Wallin' (ji. 306), tranBlotes "Asftl" (A till) by
"tmeciea.or Acacia." The Aiab namo of the Tamanx orienUiiit ia puro
Hebrew (70K).
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 65
This upland, runuing parallf-'l with the Lip-ranf:e and with
the maritime Ghat", is the far-famed Hisma. It probably
represents a remnant of the old terrace which, like the secondary
gypseous formation, has lieen torn to pieces by the volcanic
region to the east, and by tlie plutonio upheavals to the west.
The length may be 170 miles, the northern limit is either close
to, or a little south of, Fort Ma an ; * and we shall see the
southern terminus of the Hisma proper shar]»ly defined on a
parallel with the central Shavr, but not extending, as we had
been told, to the latitude of El-Wijh. The latter, however,
would not be far out, if tho *' Jaww"t lie coiisideroil, as certain
of the Bedawiu say, a cotitinuatiun of tho Hisum, under auotlier
name. An inaccessible fortress to the south, it is approached
on the south-west by difiicult passes, easily defended against
man and beast. Farther north, however, the Wadys 'Afal
(about El-Sharaf), El-Hakl (Hagnl).andEl-Titm, near i:i-'Aka-
bah, are easy lines without War (stony ground), or Nakb
(ravine-eols).
The Hisma material is a loose modern sandstone, showing
eveiy hue between blood-red, rose-pink and dead, dull white :
again and again fragments had been pointed out to us in
ruined biiildiiiga and in tho remains of hand-mills and nib-
stones near the coast. Possibly the tnie coal-measures may
underlie it, especially if the rocks east of Petra be, as some
travellers state, a region of the Old, not of tho New Red.
According to my informants, it has no hills of quartz, a rock
which appears everywhere except in tho Hisma ; nor should I
expect the region to be metalliferous.
On the summit of the trap-hillock Jebel el-Khuraytat, the
southern jamb of the Khuraytat gate, we found a ruined
" Burj," measuring 40 feet in diameter. This commanding
site gives a splendid and striking view. After hard, dry iiving
on grizly mountain and unlovely wady, tho fine open plain,
slightly concave in the centre, was a delightful change of diet
to the eye — the first enjoyable seustitiou of the kind since we
had gazed lovingly upon the broad bosom of the Wady el-
'Arabah. Tho general appearance is tiiat of Eastern Syria,
especially the Haurau. At tho present sexison all is a sheet
of pinkish-red, which in March will turn to lively green. On
* As ho3 been shown, tho Betlowi Slmykh of El-'Aknbfth pliiccd tho northern
limit ono march soatli of El-M«'ati (tLo Waters), while Wallin (p. 308) makes it
huBil at that Btttlfimt'nt and ciidi iit Taljiik, ia tbo souUj. His words nre, '*Tho
JiL&l el-Harrah advances in a nnrth-eastcrly dircctiun, till it gnkdualiy aiokti
into irrcgolor hillookB in the neighbourhrxHl of Tabiik."
t Meaning air, sky, low gr^juiid, or open space : it \« also an equivalent of tho
old term Yeinuninh. which coinpiiuhvudud El-Nejd, El-Tihumah, Bolirajn, and
Oimin ; in fai:t, Nortlicru Arubia.
VOL. xi.ix. r
i
66 Buhton's Itineraries of flte Second Expedition into Midian.
this parallel the diameter does not exceed a day's marcli, bat we
mo- it broadening to tbe north. Looking in that direction, over
the ghioniy nietallt'd porjiliyritic slopes u[ioq wliirli we stand,
the frhuice extends to a sen-horizon, while the Sfvcrwl plains
below it are dotted with iiills and hill-ranges, white, r(.!(.l, and
black: all are distance-dwarfed to the size of thinjldes and
pincnshions. The guides especially pointed out the ridge
El-Mukaykam, a red block upon red sands, and a far-famed
rendezvous for raid and rnxzia. Nearer, the dark lumps of
El-Kliayrani rise from a similar surface ; nearer still lie the two
white dot-!, El-Kakhatuatayn (thf* '* Two Vultures "), and nearest
is the ruddy ridge, " Jebel " and " Jils el-Kavviyan,'' con-
taiuiiijsr, they say, niins and inscriptions, of which Wallin did
not even hear.
The eastern versant of the Hisma is marked by long chap-
lets of tree and slirub, disposed along: the solrafje of the water*
courses ; and the latter are pitt<<l with wells built up after the
fashion of the Bedawin. In this rlninili the horizon is bounded
by El-Ilarrali, the volcanic region, whose black, porous lavas
and himey combed basalts, often charged with wuito zeolite,
ere still brought down even to the coast, where they serve as
mortars and haml-raills. The profile is a long, straight, and
Tegulur line, as if formed under wiiter, capped here and there
by a tiny liend lik«.' the .Syrian "Kulayb Hanrtiu." Its jiet-uliar
doreum makes it distinguisliuble from afar, and we could easily
trace it I'rom the upper heights of tlie Sharr. It is evidently
a section of the mighty plutonic outbreak, which has done
so much to change the aspect of tbe parallel Midian sea-
board. AValliu's account of it (pp. 307-309) is contined to
th<! place whei'e he crossed the luva-flood. I believe him to
be wrong where he tells us {\^. 3UU) that the southern boundary
oi" the ilismti plain, is " liirmed by the steep front of a
lateral chfuu of hills {El JIarruh) which branches out at an
acute angle from tbe Shafah chain." The two formations —
Shafah and Harrah — are palpably and completely distinct.
Again he says, "From the acute angle, named a!-Zawii6
(El-Zuwiyub, the Curnfr),* thus formwl between tbe iSbafah
chain and its lateral branch of Jlnrril, the land of al-ilisma
gradually oj^ens out into an extensive plain." But the Hismii
extends iar southwards, forming the *' Jaww," and the Harrah
even further. Finally, he lenders " El- Harrah," which, in
Arabic, always applies to a burnt region, by " red-coloured
sandstone."
The Bedawin far more reasonably declare that tins Harrah
* Also mcAniog a cell. 'Hie " JilxLI cl-Zdvijah " vill b» noticed furtliar on.
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 67
is not a mere patch, as it appears in Wallin's map. My worthy
predecessor made it a narrow oblijn;^ not exceeding 60 njiles
(N. lat. 27°-28"), and disposed diajronally from north-west to
south-east ; wliile (p. 323) he considers it " as a rhomboid, with
its angles facing the four cardinal points." According to the
people^ it is a region at least as large as the Jlisma: and it
extends southwards, not only to the parallel of El-Medinah,
but to the neiglibourhood of Yambii (V). Tho upper region
has two great divisions ; the Hurrat-Hisma, or The Harrah }iar
excellence, whieh belongs to the ^la'iizah, and which extends
southwards through El-iSulaysilah as far as tho Jaww (.^ )•
This latter region, a tract of yellow sand, dotted with rudrly
hills, apparently, I have said, a prolongation of the Hiiima,
separates it from the Harrat el-'Awayras: ( ^ ^j^), in which
the Jeljel ol-Muharrak lies." The line of vulcanism is con-
tinued south by tho Harrat cI-Mushrif (P. N. of a man) ; by
the Harrat Sutiih ( .••. .^J Jayda;t and, finally, by the Harrat
el-Buhayr ( «c:l)). The latter rises close behind the shore at
El-Haura, where it is in the same latitude as El-Medinah,
and where we shall presently sight it. There is gi-eat intprest
and a genuine importance in this large ot)a3t-snbtending
eruptive range, whoso eastern coimterslope demands ciirelul
stuay. The " Jaww " has not yet been visited by Europeans ;
but tiie country, lying through the lands of the j)eac«ful Baliyy,
ofiera no difficulties.
Sweeping the glance round to south, we see the southern
head of the " Jilsayn," two tall mountains of horizontal strata,
with ironstone in harder lines and tinial blotrks. This is the
Jils el-Daim," so distiuf^uished from tlje lujrthern Jils cl-
Hawiyau. The lower ed<ie of the Hismii cliffs rises in red and
quoin-like masses, the Jibal el-Zuwiyah ; and then fulls suddenly,
with a succession of great breaks, into the sub-maritime levels.
During our next ten days' travel we sliall be almost in con-
tinuous sight of its southern ramparts and buttresses. Far
over tho precipices stretch the low yellow iiantis of tho Kahabah
{,i^^,j^ ), alias the Wady Damah; and behiud it towers the
♦ For notices of this " Burnt Mountain," bo well-known at El-Wijh, we ' Tiie
Land of jlidittn (Revisited),' ebftp. xviii.
t Sutiili Jaydii would mean tbc '* flats of tho fine-neckai' (womnn, maro
camel).
F 2
skyblue mountain-blockj, which takes its name from the ruins of
Sha^hab and Sliuw&k.
When the caravan reached the pass-summit, we accompanied
it to the nearest camping-groaml, ;i.boiit 30 uiinutos (=1 mile)
from the Col ; and thus giving the day a total of 2 hours
( = 3 miles). It lies to the west of the red Jits el-Rawiyan, and
is supplied with excellent drinking-water by the Miyah el-
Jedayd, lying about 1000 yards to the south-east. On the other
baud, fuel, here a necessary of life, was wanting, nor could the
camels find forage. Luckily for ourselves, we bad camped upon
the very edge of the Hisma ; and the Ma'azah Sbaykhs showed
much disappointment at our not making their quarters on the
far side.
In the evening matters assumed a threatening aspect. It
was rumoured that the Ma'azah, refusing to allow the Huwayti
camels to cany us, had sent messengers to collect tbeir own
animals ; and this of course was interpreted to mean a gathering
of the tribe. Besides the want of fuel and fodder, the Shaykhs
and their followers were eating us uji, and began to debate
wbetber they should cbarge us as blackmail for fi^e-passage
$100 or $200 per diem. And, worst of all, quarrels about the
past were begin inng amongst the camel-men.
I was sorely disappointed for more reasons than one. The
cbief object of this march was to investigate the inland depth
of the metalliferous deposits ; their extent from west to east ;
and our only chance of finding a virgin California wttuld be in
the unknown tracts lying to the east of the " Ilarrahs," More-
over, all manner of arcLiuological remains were rei>orted ; the
Jils el-Rawiyau famed for " Hawawii f the ruins of El-Buafi
almost in sight ; and Karayya, on the Damascus road, which
Wallin (p. 316) was unable to visit. Lastly, wlien too late to
inspect the place, I secured a fragmentary Nabathajan inscrip-
tion finely cut in soft white sandstone, loo bad to have every
object thwarted by the exorbitant demands of a handful of
tbieves I
Yet a retreat was, under the circumstances, necessary. I
will not trouble tlio reader with my reasons; he will readily
believe that none but the most urgent compelled me to take
such a step.
Feb. 25th began with a violent discussion, which ended
with my Laving to pay at the rate of ^100 per diem — $200
into the bands of the Shaykh, Mohammed bin "Atiyyah. After
this avanie, we were escorted with due civility by our plun-
derers. We reached tbe foot of the Kliuraytat el-Jils in
26 minutes, and, after a short delay to collect tlie caravan, we
BuRTOJ^^« Itineraries oft/ie Second Expedition into Midian,
began to tlesi'oinl the Southern Col, the Khuraytat el-Zibi.
Here the watershed of the Wady Surr (of El-H[uwaylah) heads ;
and merchants object to its shorter line because their camels
must eliinb two ladders of rock instead of one. Tlie descent
was much longer, and but little less troublesome than its nor-
thern neighbom* ; tlie formation was the same, and 45 minutes
placed us in a sandy gully that presently widened to a big
valley, the \\'ady Dahal ( V^^i j o^ the " Water-holes ") or Wady
el-Khuraytat. W^e reached the camping-place at 12.30 r.M.,
and laid down the march from the summit of the Northern
Col at 3} miles.
That night was passed at some distance l:>elnw the water of
the AVady Uahal. The place is known as the Jayb el-Khuraytat
("Collar of the Col "). The term "Jayb," meaning a broader
and larger feature than a wadv, and in pure Arabic (lenoting the
entrance inio a countiy, is locally applied to two places only;
the other is the Jayb el-Srt'Uiw«ah, which we shall presently
visit. A\'p are now about 35^ direct geographical miles from
El-Muwaylah, east with a trifle of northing ; a march of 12 hours
for dromedaries. Thus the distance from the Port to the
Hisma wonld measure by this road a little under 4U miles.
III. To the ruins of ShaflJuih and Shtiwdk — We have now left
the region explored by Eurofjeans, andour line, to the south and
the south-east, will lie over new ground. The laud in front of
us is no longer " JIadyan" : we are entering the South Midian,
which will extend to El-IIejaz, of which, according to some of
the Arabian geographers, it forms a part,
Feb. 2(ith. — We set out at 0.15 A.M., down the W^adya Daluil
and Aflau ( . ^\^ P. X. of man), and made a considerable
round between s.s.e. and s.e. to avoid the stone-torrents dis-
chai'ged by the valleys and gorges of the Shninh liange ou
our left hand. On the right (west) rose the Jebel Sula (ni^)
and other outliers of the Tihamah Mountains, above whose
nearer heights towered the pale peaks of the Sharr. Between
the two is a network of nullahs, the upper branches of the
Wady Sa'liiwwah (o Ax,^)' 'I'liis well-wooded Fiumara runs
nearly southwards, passes along the mountain of the same name,
and feeds the great Wady Dam ah (^^^3).
At 9 A.M. we leit the Sa'luwwah, and turned abruptly east-
ward up the W^ady el-Sulaysalah, whose head, draining the
Hisma, falls sharply from the Sliafah Ilange. The ground is
70 Eurton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
still tliat of the plateau, red sand with blocks of ruddy grit;
aiid, aocordinfc to Shaykli Furayj, it forms the south-westera
limit of the Harrah. The surface is honoycoiubed into man-
traps by grouiid-rats and lizards. The former, called Girdi
(iC^ ^), in classical Arabic "Jirdanu" ( .,^^), means a
groiind-rat or field-mouse. Like the Jerboa it must be noo-
tunial, for we never saw during the day a live sfiecimen.
We then ascended the rough and roi-ky divide known as the
Tala't Majra lluways^ " Rise of the Watershed of llnvvays."
The MidJaaite Bedawin pronounce Majra \\ ^s-K^> literally, a
place of flowing, a watershed (wasserscheide), u versant, as if
it were written Maghriik \^Si^^)\ hut the latter is not
known to the dictionaries. Prof. Palmer (' Desert of the Exod.'
Appendix E) translates the Siuaitie " Magnih, or Majiah," by
"a hollow or depression in wiiich rain-water collects." He
also finds in the Nejeb (Negeh) a Jchal Magruh ; the Rev.
William Holland writes " Jebal Mugrah, never before pene-
trated by travellers, and far from correctly laid down in the
map " (Brit. Ass., Aug. 15, 1878). My learned friend Spreuger
thinks that the two words, Jlf«;'m and ii/n^'i<A, may be identical;
but as Arabic dictionaries are, at the best, imperfect, he advises
me to write the word as it is pronounced.
On the right of the track lies the ugly tormented ridge El-
Euways \^,^,^^J ; to the left the queer isolated lump Jebel
el-Muraytbah ( ij^ ^), of the " Sweet Well "). • The latter,
grey granite of coarse elements, has upraised and imbedded ia
its substance the more ancient traps ; in its turn it has been
cut by long horizuntal dykes of the hardest quadrangular
basalt. After this point the rcgiilar granite sequence dis-
appears, nor will it again become visible till we reach Shaghab
(March 2).
As yet we had only ridden 4 hours (=11 miles), and we had
remounted, after noon, for a long *ipell, when the cry arose
that the " Water of El-Muraytljali " was dried up. It is not a
rain-pool, but a spring rising slowly in the sand-sluflnig of three
fissures in the granite, lyin^ parallel with oae another, and at
diflerent levels. The highest and principal crevice, easily
cleared out, produced a supply potable but slightly sulphurous
I
♦ lUrtahab ia a sweet (wfll) lying between *aline (springs). If written witk
the firat " t " the word would mean " of the little steps."
Burton'j Itineraries of the Second Ejcpcdition into Midiari, 71
and chalybeate. The delay, however, brought this day's work
to a close. The Shnykhs will now tight hai-d for 4-hour
days.
Our evening was cheered by the sight of the Hismd. We
forgot the hut unlively march, the thirsty mules, and the insect
world that persecuted us, in I he presence of the weird and
fascinating a8[)ect of tlie southern plateau-wall rising opposite
the camp, and distant alwut a mile from the dnl! drab-coloui'ed
basin El-Mugnih. Baaed upon miglity and massive formations
of brown and green trap, the undulating junction bein^ well
defined by a horizontal white line, the capping of sandotone
rises regular, as if laid in coursos, with a huge rampart, the
Taur ( X') el-Shafah, or *' inaccessible (part) of the Lip
Range," falling perpendicular upon the natural sIoj>n of its
glacis. Farther eastward the continuity of the coping is broken
by what the Bedawiu here call El-Giragir ( ^ y^)' ^®
most rcTnarkable of castellations. As we progress south-east-
ward, we shall find them (.mrving frum north-east to south-east,
in a manner of scorpion's tail, with dctaclipd vertebrre, torn and
wasted by the adjacent plutouic rocks. Viewed from the west,
the Girugir look Uke rud reefs and islets rising above the great
gloom V waves of trap and porphyry ; and in places they are
backed by the horizontal lines, lavas and basalts, of the straight-
backed Harrah. From the Diimuh wat<'rcour3e the castled
crags appear art-like enough to suggest haunted ground, a
glimiTse of the citv of Brass built somewhere hereabouts by tha
olden king, Shaddad ibn 'Ad.
Fti), 21ih. — At 0 A.Tir. we began the march by striking east*
ward over the rim of the dull basin. Here is an old made road,
a cornice about 1^ mile long, cut in the stony Iknks of a hill
whose head projects southwards into the broad Wady Hujayl
( V..^^, "the Little Partridge"). The latter seems to drain
inland ; presently it Iw^nds round by the cast, and feeds the
main artery, ^V'ady Damali. Ruin must have fallen, for we
found many plants flowering, especially the Hargul ( Va^ .^ )i
a Bhazya (stricta), which tills the air with its lavish fragrance,
and the distafl-liko " Masuur " (Fuiif^us melitc)m$. or Gynomo-
rt'ttm coccineum). of wliitdi the Arabs " cook broad." Yellow is
the prevailing tint of the vegetation throughout Miiliun, often
* Jurijir would mean Doiiily rasliiiig water, from Jarjor, a word aimilar to our
" gurgle."
suffgestiiig the careless wheat-fields of England, in which " abil-
locK," called wild musturd, abounds; and here we miss the
lovely anemoneSj the papuvers, and the mauve and white cycla-
mens of Syria. Future collectors of botany are warned that
the vegetable follows the rule of the mineral kingdom : every
march exliibits something new, and he who neglects to gather
specimens in one valley, will often miss them in its neighiwurs.
A denser line of trees down the Wady Hujayl showed the water
of Amdan ( .^\j^^\), which others called "Mfddn;"* represented
to be 6 hours distant from our last camp, it was passed after
1 honr 30 minutes. To the lei't, and facing us, rose the GIragir»
all decayed Hisnia, blurred and broken by the morning mist.
Presently turaing to the south-Oiist, we struck across a second
wild divide intu the Wady el-Anlish / jix\ \), another feeder
of the Wady Ddmah nnining southwards. Like yesterday, the
loose red sand i>^ Ilisniil-groundj and it is scattered with blocks
of the Harrah-lava. The walls are burnished fclsite and green
porphyritic trap, a barren ugly formation which will hauut us
for several marches.
After riding 4 hours (=12 miles) we halted in a short
"Watercourse, the Wady el-Giragir. Hero we could prospect the
northern basin of \\n'^ great Wady Damah, whose plain in
also known ha EJ-lIahabah, the ojien (abode) — the Rahab or
Rehoboth ("Spaces") of the Hebrews^ the' TrXareJa of the
Greeks. In Arabic it applies esjiecially to valleys over whose
every part water flows. Damah is probably a corruption of
Daama, the liole of the jerboa, or the tield-mouse. Tliis
notable feature. Jnmed as an Arabian Arkadia, is a " Haddii-
dah," or frontier <ltvidc, whii-li in days of yore separated
the " 'Ukbiy vah " ('Ukbi-laud) to the north from the " Cala-
wiyyah " (liali-land) south. The latter tribe still claim it as
a northern limit. The author of the ' Masiilik el-Absar-ii
Manmlik el-Amsar't (the ' I'utlis of Clear-seeing in the Domi-
nions of Cities') says, "Their abodes are now in Damu, which
is the land between the Uyiia el-Ivftj>ab ('Aynunah) and El-
Akra, at the mouth of the Mazfk (defile>." Now, however,
the intrusive lluwaytat have pushed their way far beyond
this bourne. The actual owners, tbe Sulaymiyyin, the 8ulay-
mat, the Jernfiu, and other Hnwayti tribes, are a less turbulent
rae<i than the nortiiems, because they are safe from the bandit
Ma'azah and they live in the presence of their brethreu. Tha
• In Arnbic " iuinii<ljin " means iurfacc-watcr.
t Tlie worJt if (Abil'l 'Abbus ShiLiib el-Din) Alimed iba Yahyi in the earlj
pari of the foiuteentli ccntiirj- (nat. a. u. 700, ob, liS),
^
^
Burton'* Itineraries of tJie Second Expedition into Midian.
Damah head is a great bay in the Jlisma-wall to the east, and
below Ziba we sliall steam across its nioulh. The valley is
equally abnndiiut in herds of camels, Hocks, and vegetation ;
in places it is, adorned by trcc-cluiups and a thin open forest.
The broad hwse sole of ruddy sand is fearlully burrowed and
honeycombed; and, like its sister the Wady Saclr, it is exposed
to the frequent assaults of the Zauba'h (^oo** )*» ^^ dust-
" devil." That it is plentifully supplied with water, wc learn
from the birds which muster in force : the Caravane, or " kuock-
kneed plover;" the Egyptian liakham (NeopJiron pei'enopterus) ;
the lovely little "Simoird" (Nedarintu Ose^v) ; the brown
swallow of the A'iie banks, and flights of ravens {Ghurab el-
Bayn), highly intelligent animals which are as destructive as
falcons.
We rode on for 1 hour 4.5 minutes ( = 5 miles) and a total
of 5 hours 45 minutes { = 17 luiles) ; crossed the '' Thalweg " of
the Damah, and camped on its !et"t bank, near the Jebel el-
Balawi. The water known as Mayet el-Jibsiyl (" of the Hil-
lock ") lay about 30 miimtes ahead in a lone rocky snout.
Betore sleeping we were visited by an old Bedawiyyah
(woman), who brought a goat for sale ; she had a long tale to
tell of neighbouring ruins, especially a well witli steps, into
which the Arabs had descended some seven Karnat ("stattires,"
i,e. fathoms). Presently they found liouses in the galleries nt
the bottom and fled in terror. The legend is common throngh-
out Midian ; but we could not trace its origin,
Feb. 2Sfh. — Lieut. Amir was sent to sketch and survey the
reported remains, under the guidance of a Sulavmi Bedawi,
Said ibn Zayfulhih, who, according to his own account, must
have been a centagennrian. He named the ruins Dar
('* house ")f or Divar ('' houses "), El-Na.sara ; that is, of the
Nabathfeans. The former term "of the Nazarenes" is herv^
retained by popular tradition, while the Nabat are clean
forgotten : the same is the case in th^ Sinuitic Peninsula which
Dr. Beke calls of Pharan, Biding south-west down the Daraah,
the party came upon the 'Ayn el-Bada' (rtX))* ^ spriog'
in a stone- revetted well (?) near the left bank. The strew of
broken quartz arouud it showed an atelier; and specimens
of scattereil fragments, glass and pottery, were added to the
collection. The settlement-ruins, which the guide called El-
Kantarah (the " Bridge " or the " Arch "), lay farther down,
* The olHssical teim U Abil (or Umm) Zauba'at, "Father (or mother) of (Iho
demon) Znuba'uh."
Bubton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
upon a southern iufluent of the main line of draiuaf^e : they
were divided into two blocks, one larjjer than the other.
Lieut. Amir tiien jmsheil forward by ft direct road lying west
of that taken by the caravan. The latter travelled up the
broad open sole of the Wady Shebaykah (uiC*.ii' ^^ ^''"3 " Little
Net"), which gives its name toanadjoiniiij,' mountain : it is the
recipient of the Wady Shuwak. The longer road was good,
but it occupied the camels 12 hours.
liy way of exercttation, ive had all laid dovru from Arab
information the bay of iSliaghab and SImwuk ;' and nothing
could be more ineuugruourf when the sketch-muiis came to be
compared. This arose from the route foLlowinf; the three sides
of a long parallelof^rani, whose fouiili is ljii?ed upuii the Wady
Ddmah, causing considerable complication. And, the " ex-
cursus" ended, we were all convinced that we had made much
southing, whereas our farthest point was not more than five
miles below the parallel of Ziha (n. kit. 27° 2U').
Lcavii>g the great valley at G A.M., we struck up a southern
influent, the Wady iSiiuwak. On the rocky ground of the left
bank we passed circles of stones {Hu/rah, '' Water-pits "?) and
skirted the low tongue of rock whose folds had .supplied us
yesterday with drink. Our course zigzagged to the south-east
over ground alternately sandy aud stony : east of it rose the
mountains Abu Shimin ( , \'. *, of the " Wild Leek"), and
Fujaymah (a ^^.-^t*^ ; and west the Jebel Sula' (jtLo)t Ei-
Humr.
After 3 hours' marcliing ( = 6 miles) we turned up a branch
watercourse on the Wady yimwak's left bank ; a " short cut "
Rensibly avoided by the caravan. The gorge showed at once a
total change of formation. Crvstallised lime, clays of variegated
Lues, and large-stoned conglomerates compacted by a hard
siliceous paste of dark mauve, as if they contained manganese,
painted in fresco, the sides and the floor. Apparently this
gully is a favourite with birds. For the tirst time in Midian
we saw the partridge, called here, as in Sinai, "Sbinnar"
\ \. » =Caccabis): the noble species {C. mdanocephala)^
common in Abyssinia, is nearly as large as a pheasant, and
tastes much like the immigrant from Phasis. Besides this,
• The latter tenn^ from which Ptolemy borrowed hia " StJaka,' ia connected
•with Hhakf, i.e., tall, loftv (mountain). " Shtigbnl) " w« sliiiU see was formerly
" Sbaghbd."
t Sulla' would mean a broad bard stone, or a piaco pruducing no verdure.
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 75
were the qaail, the Ilajl (Hey's or desert partridgi?. Ammoperdrix
heyi); the ringdove, the turtle and the fierce little butcher-
bird.
Farther on, the patli, strikiiii}^; over broken divides and long
tracta of stony 2;i'ound, beciime rough riding. It is flanked by
the usual mehmcholy monotonous hills of reddish folsite and
greenish trap, whose mouldering, slaty and schist-like edges,
ia plai-es stand upright. Uj>ou the summit ut' the last Col
nppt>ared the ruins of some work, a largo s<jaare of boulder-
stones. After 4 hours' riding ( = 10 slow miles), in a general
south-eastern direction, hiy mapped before lis the pink sands,
the Daum-trees and fan-palm bush ; the arboreous Asclepias
(YA-lJshT = C(iUofrojn3 procera), and the secular jujubes of
iiir Wady Shuwjik. It is backed by the Jebel el-»5ani'
(nj\^^), the "Mountain of the Maker" (or artificer); that
is, the blacksmith. The name derives from a traditional
brother of Weyland Smith, who lived and shod animals there
in the olden time, possibly iHjfore the sixteenth century, when
the maritime road was laid out. The block is split into twin
the higher, and
lying
heads, El-Naghar ( «^) being the higher,
east of its neiglibour El-Niujhaijr. 'i'iie peaks arc excellent
landmarks, seen fur many a mile ; and the Bedawiu declare
that there is a furnace near the summit.
Shuwak ( s^fci) which, by Lieut Amir's dead reckoning,
lies in n. lat. 27'^ 15', can be no other than the 'S.oaKa placed
by rtolomy (VI. viL) in N. lat. 20" 1;3'. If this be so, we must
add an average 1° to his latitudes, which elsewhere, also, appear
too low. This addition would give : —
Hippus Vicus (I'tol. 20^ 40) 2V 40', the exact latitude of
El-Muwavlah.
Phoenfkon Vicus (Ptol. 26° 20') 2T 20'. the latitude of
Ziba.
861ma (Ptol. 26°) 27° 20', the Mediterranean village on the
Wady Sahna (?).
Bada (Ptol. Badais, 25" 30') 26" 45' 30".
Marwah, or Aba 'l-JIani (Ptol. 3l6ehuura, 24'' 30') 26° 10'.
There is nothing violent in this change. On the East
African coast Ptoiemys Aronmta Promuntorium, which can
only be Jard Hah'ui, or " Guardafui," is placed Ijetween N. lat.
5^ and 7', wherens it lies in N. lut. 11° 41' 4".
According to iSjtrenger (' Alt. Geog.', p. 25), Sdaka and Badais
76 BuilTON'i Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
do not fit into any of the Alexandrian's routes ; and were con-
nected only witb their ports Khaunathos (Mjirmah ?) and
PLoenikon Vicus (Ziba ?). But both these cities represented
important stations, both of agriculture and of mineral industry,
on the Nabathman overland between Leuke Kome and Petra,
a line kept up by the Moslems till Sultan Selim's route
superseded it.
I will here describe only the site of Shuwak, consigning to
another place* details concerning its ruins, a subject not
strictly gfOf^rapliicah It lies upon a long narrow riverine
island, iu the broad sandy wady of the same name. The
*' Thalweg " has «.'vidently shifted again and again ; now it
hugs the left baak under the Jebel el-Siuii', whilst a smaller
branch, on the northern side, is subtended by the stony divide
which we have just crossed. At the city the trend of the
valley is from north-east to pouth-west, and the altitude is
about 170U feet (ancr. 28-28, the mean of G obs.). The head
still shows the sandstone castcllatioiLS of the Hismil, Looking'
dowTi stream, beyond the low dark hills that divide the basin
from the adjoining southern wady, we see the tall grey heads
of Jebel ZiglAb {^\^-), and of the Shahbd Giimirab
(i y^l^. L-ft-i;)' the " ashen-coloured (peak) of Jamirah/' the
P. N. of a valley. Both gleam white by the side of the gloomy
traps; and they mark the granitic redon, lying south and
seaward of the more modern plutonic rocks.
At Shuwak we allowed our camels, but not ourselves, a day
of rest. The ruins are in the usual melancholy state, much
like the broken heaps and cairns which are found in the Nejeb
or " South Country." Traces of solid wails, forming huge
parullelograrae, are divided by tumuli of loose friable soil
efflorescing with salt— the mmintures of what arc seen at
Babylon, Nineveh and Troy. The arrangements for smelting,
and for wuter-sufiplyj furnaces, wells and cisterns, b<«rrage8 and
aqueducts, apjiear to have been ou a large scale. One conduit,
built of untrimmed stone, ami channelled with rougli cement
overlying a finer concrete, can be traced for a mile and a
quarter along the left bank. Tlie circular furnaces, measuring
some 2 feet iu diameter, were built of lire-brick; and uf the
Hisma sandstone, which moulds itself into a natural open
lateritimn. We dug into several of them, but so carcfid had
been the workmen, or perhaps the " treasure-seeker,'* that not the
smallest bit of metal remained — nothing was found save ashes.
■ Tlifi lymd uf MidioQ (Beviaited)/ dutp, xi.
Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 77
pottery auid stones. Perhaps our most interesting discovery
was of the catacombs, proviug a civilisation enalof^ous to that
of Maghair Shu'ayb, but ruflor far, because more distant from
the ethnic centre.
We left Shuwak considerably perplexed by what it had
shown us. The city proper is 1^ mile long; and it could
hai-dly liave lodged less than 20,000 to 25,000 souls. The
evidences of immense labour were the more surprising when
compared with the utter absence of what we c&\\ civilisation.
Not a coin, not even a bit of glass, had been picked up. Tho
Greek and Latin inscriptiuns of the Hauranic cities declare
their origin. These Midianitiah rains, absolutely analphabetic,
refuse a single hint concerning tho mysterious race wliieh here
lived and worked, and worked so nobly. Again, who were the
3Ios]ems who succeeded them in a later day, when the Hajj-
Caravan, some 3^ centuries ago, ceased to march by this road ?
How is it that the annalists say nothing of them ? that not a
ve-stige of tradition remains concerning any race save tho
Nazarene ?
March 2nd. — From 8huwak to the Wady Damah are two
roads. The direct turns to the north-west ; the other, which
passes tho ruins of El-Sliag!iab, forms two legs, due south and
suuth-west. Setting out, at 6 a.m., down the left or southern
side of the Shuwak Valley, we passed some immense basements
of constructions lying alxjut a mile below our camp ; the total
length could not have been loss than 4 miles. One is a wall
of over 1000 yards, ending in what appears to be a square
cistern, 48 paces each way. On the east rose the Jebel
el-Wasaydah (^j^,), fronting the Jebel el-Wasayddt
icJ^^^- We then left the Shuwak Valley to the right,
and stnick over a rough and stony divide, with a narrow pass
formed by the Jebel Hashim on the north, and the Jebel Ghurab
on the south. The pass was marked by Bedawi tombs, garnished
with the usual rags and tatters. Beyond the pas.'-", quartz once
more appeared in large quantities.
After marching 2 hours ( = 7 miles) we saw uniform heaps
to the left; and another 30 minutes showed us a range of
boulder-circled pits on the right; their clay soles were of
brighter green, and the Arabs called them Hufrah (3 ij^),
the "artificial," opposed to Temdil el-md ( \j\^), "natural
water-holes." We are now in another hydrographic basin ; the
southenimost yet visited. This Wady el-Shnghab flows south-
78 Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Afidian.
westward to the Wady Aznab (the "fat"), whose embouchure
we Bhnll pass on the way southwards.
After a total of 3 hours ( = 10 miles), we sighted the large
and important remaius of Shaghab (^_^^W * ). It is probably
inclurled by Ptolemy under the name Softkai and it is evi-
dently the Shughbii, whitib tiie j^en^rnipher Yakut (iii. 302)
places one day's journey from BitiM. Tlie ruins of iShajibab are
Itiu'It upon moro foninlicated ground than those of Shuwalc.
Tht; Wady Shaghab, tiowing southwards, here spreads out into
a broad bulge or basin ; it contains rude Arab wolls ; and its
characteristic rock is the ranuve-eoloured conglomerate before
notit'fid. Looking down-stream wo see a " gate," formed by the
moeting of two rocky tougue-ti[»s, both showing large works:
beyood thesis ]iarro>is nothing is visible. The mass of the
city lays on the left bank, where a high and artififial-Iooking
remblai of earth masks the mouth of an influent from the east,
the Wady el-Aslah {^\), or of the "Kali Plant," which, with
the Wady 8hagbab, feeds the Aznab. It drains the Jebels Aslah
and Ziglab, the cones of pnl^ granite visible from 8hnwak ; and
the old SL'ttloment stood a cheval upon its broad lower course.
Slightly east of north the twin peaks Naghar and NughajT,
combining to foiTu the " Mouutain of tiie Maker/' tower profiled
in the shape of a huge pyramid. A little north of west springs,
also in profile, the great ShdiT of Kl-j\luwaylflh ; no longer a
ridge, but a tall and portly blwk. Lastly, a re;;u]ar ascent, the
]\lugrah el-Waghir (of " Fretting '") fronts the eity, sloping up to
the W'.N.W. ; and disclosing a view of the Jibal el-Tihuuiah. This
broad incline was, three centuries ago, the route of the Hajj-
Coravan,
The ruins, which are not a quarter the size of Shuwak,
show the usual succession of huge parallelograma. The only
peculiarity is one of the mf.ny aqutiducts which, after Greek,
as opposed to Roman fashion, has been run underground to
pierce a hdlock. Near the remains of a fort (V) wo found heaps
of hind-sholls : they are rare in this i-egion, and durmg our
four months' march \\c secured only two species. Shaghab
removed some of the difficulties which had perplexed us at
Shuwak and elsewhere. In tlie northern country signs of
nietal-wt)rking, which was mostly confined to the wadys, have
been generally obliterated, either washed away or sanded
over. Here the industry revealed itself without mistake. The
furnaces were few ; but around each ai*e long heaps of neffro
and copper-green quartz, freshly fractured ; while broken hand-
I
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 79
mills of bosttlt ami lava, different from tlio nib-stoues and the
mortiirs of softer subst-ance, told their own tale.
At Shaghab tlien, the nietAlliferous rock, brouj!:ht from the
adjiicent njountains, was crushed aud probably ti-uu.sported for
washing and roasting to Shuwak, wheie water, tlie priiue
necessary, abounded. If in early days the two or rather tliree
settlements formed one, their sontli end would have been the
bead-qnarters of the wealtliier classes. Henco the Bedawin
always give it precedence—" Shaglutb wa Shuwak." Moreover,
we remarked a better style of buihling iu the former ; aud we
picked up glass as well as pottery.
The glass fragments found in Midinn generally are of two
distinct kinds. The modern is the thick buttle-green and
Llueish materia! wJiich Hebron still produces. The aneicut,
Srocured by digging, is so much degraded by daujp that iri-
escence has supplanted the original texture. Amongst the
Greeks of the classical age there were many varieties of colour.
The doep-grecn or black-brown were made from tiie obsidians
of Thera, Mylos, &'c., treated with soda, potash and oxide of
lead to make it flow readily. The opaque yellow was abiiwina
mixed with iron oxide; and oxide of copper or, possibly, mala-
chite, was ailded to form the blue variety.
IV. The return to El-Mumujlah via Ziba. — Leaving liient.
Amir to map and plan the ruina, we followed the caravan up
the Magrah el-Waghir, the long divide whose film of forest-
trees, each separated by a few yards from its neighbour, some-
what reminded me of tlie Anti-Libanus about El-Kuaaytanih.
Theref liowever, thick-leaved terebinths and holm-oaks, here
thorny acacias and mimo&is form the staple. On our right
stood the dull bare block Jebel Muwayrib (i^^ yj^^) l aud,
farther north, the Jibdl Abu Tinah (Ai^,"of clay"). Behind
these two the tall Jebel Tulayh i,„^ of the "little Talh-
thorn**) buttressed the right (northern) bank of the Wady
Damah ; awl, still farther, stainetl faint blue by distatire, rose the
familiar Tilmmah range, a ridge now broken into half-a-dozcn
blocks. About the third mile we passeil, on the left, rutn.s of long
walls, memorial stones, and signs of Arab " Wasm." 1 had
ordered the camp to be pitched upon the Tuwayl el-8uk;
despite which, in 1 hour 15 minutes ( = 4 miles), and a total of
4 horn's 15 minutes ( = 14 miles), we found the tents standing
some 3 miles short of it, on a bleak ugly aud waterless ridge of
the W6ghir (^1,)- The Shayks swore by Allah that tliis
*
80 Burton'« Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
the Jebek el War, Haraymal ( \_^
was the veritable Tuwayl; and a Bedawi, who knew where
water lay in the neighbourhood, refused to show it without the
preliminary " bakhsliisli."
March 3rd. — At <i A.M. wo spt out down the ri«;ht bank of the
Wady el-KhaiulakJ, which runs north with westinjsr. lieyond
its depression lay the foot-hilts of gloomy trap leading to the
Jebel el-Raydan ( , 3 Jo , ) ! t^*' litter is a typical granitic form,
n short dcmipique-saddlo with inward3-.sloping pommel. Tho
Tiiwayl el-Suk shows mHhing but an open and windy flat,
where the Hajj-Caravan used to camp ; the Hamra el-Tuwayl,
an adjoining ridge, is scattered with spalled quartz, " Wasm,"
and uiemorial stones. Here the principal formation is the
mauve-coloured conglomerate.
Begiuuing from the suuth, the left bank is composed of
,^, 80 called from the
Teganum, a perfumed shrub), Marwuh aud El-Khandaki. Ou
the right or east the broad valley is bounded by the Jebels el-
Zama (L^, of " being thirsty"), Umm Kamaya* i^^.^ ), and
El-Nabi'.
After riding 2 hours 30 minutes (= 9 miles) to the north,
with westing (300^ mag:.), we came unexpectedly upon a large
and curious ruin backed by the Wiuly Damuh ; f a pair of
parallel walls, sumo <*15 feet apart, and about 1000 yards in
length, formed the chief feature. For want of a better name
I called this old settlement Khart'ihdt (ruins of) el-Khandaki,
and greatly regretted that we had not time enough to march
down (he whole line of the Damah.
Half an hour more placed us at the junction of the Wadys
el-Kliauduki aud Damah. Here is a well, the " Bir," or
"Mayet" el-Nabi' (^j!j)i ^^^ "Bursting or Overflowing";
and the" Hufruhs"of the Arabs everywhere supply sweet water.
The characteristic vegetation is the hardy tiimarisk, whoso
grey-green clumps shelter goats, sheep and camels. Our
mules now revel on green-meat ; Aristida -grass, Panicum,
liordeum (^murinum), and Bromus of several varieties. lu front
rise the twin granite-peaks of the Jebel Mutadan ( l^xi^,
* The dim. form of Binu, a tree and n kind of forage eaton by camels. Laaa
{tub voce") describes it fla roacmbling a dwiuf totnarisk. Like tho Ghoza plant, it
is ii^ed for makitig ulknli.
t Seo ' The Land of Midian (Revisited),' chap. xii.
Burton'* Itineraries of the SecoJid Expedition into Midian. 81
i.c. "near or adjaceDt "), one with a stepped side like a pynimiil
lacking its casing. Thty are separated from the Wady Damali
by a rougli and stOTiy divide ; and ruins with fnrnaces are
reported to l»e found in tlieir wady, vvliich feeds the great
"Wady 'Amiid. From the sea they also show two ridges of grey-
white granite.
At 11 A.M., after riding 5 hours (=16 to 17 miles), we halted
near a water called El-Ziyayh (^ ^. ) : slightly brackish, hut
much relished by our animals. It lies opposite the Jebel Tulayh
on the north bunk. We then resumed our way towards a lone
peak, the IiLhang (-xLs*.) el-Karin — these South Midian
names have a truly barbarous twang. Sundry bends in the bed
occupied 1 hour ( = 3 miles). We then left the Wady Dumah,
and turned up a short broad Fiumara, the Khuraym ( • ^}
el-Asirah. The W^ady Sa'Iuwwah to the left showed a barley-
field, the proi)erty of some excejutionally industrious Bedawi of
the Jerafiu-PIuwaytat clan. On our riglit rose a block of
syenite ruddy with orthose ; the surface was formed by rounded
lumps and twisted finials. We rode two more hours ( = fj miles),
a total of 7 hours ( = 22 miles), much to the disgust of tho
camel-men ; and lastly we camped at the Jayb el-Sa'liiw^vah,
also known as El-Kutnyyifah (tSoLAsJ')- 1 "^'"^ P*'"* ^^ *^^
divide is near a fold in the syenitic mountain, the Sha'b el-
Burayrfj (,,,(0,jp)' whoso stony flanks supply fresh rain-
water from the rock.
In the western hills that bound the broad slope, the remains
of a made road lead to an aielier, where large quantities of
quartz had been broken in situ. Some specimens wore a light
bluish tinge, as if stained by cobalt, a metal found in several
slags; and there were veins of amethystine quartz-crystals
nestling in their agaty beds : the engineer suspected that they
were coloured by chlorure of silver (?). The jxlons and jUets cut
the granite in all directions ; and the 6ery action of frequent
trap-dykes had torn the grouud-stono to tatters. Here a
Bedawi hud volunteered a grand account of ruins and iuscrip-
* Ebnnn, in tLe dictionary, is the brow or projectiag Bammit of a mountain i
the Arabs of Midian boeui to denote by it a hollow, or cavity,
t Meaning the " littlo Katifiib," tuantle or foldod garment
VOL. XLIX. O
•
tions to be seeu on our nest day's march. We took aluindatit
truuble to visit ail tho places, and found simply nothing. The
guides also reported, when too late, tliat to the w.s.w. of El-
Kuta^Tifah lies a Nakb called Aba "1-Marwali, the " Father
of Quartz," whose waters flow via the Mutadiia to the Wady
'Am lid.
March Ath. — From this divide two roads lead to the ruins
of Umm Amil. One goes direct, crossing an ugly pass; the
other avoids it by a couBiderable detour, via the circuitous
\yady Iluwaya d^ ,, >. ). At G a.m. we struck westwards down
a slope some 5 miles long; and then Jtscended a wady bounded
on either side by a cons]>icuous red hill. A few minutes led us
up tho Fiumiira, whoso bfd, cmnberfd witli boulders, had cut
deep below the stiff clayey Jarf (" raised banks ") : the ascent
presently placed us on a broad open pJain, some 2100 feet
above the sea-level (aner. 28 "85), and forming a water-parting.
On the left a square stone work seemed to have been intended
lor defence.
A few fiu'Iongs down the broad and smooth ^Vady Ruvvays
Ijrought us to a halt near a large nfdier on tho left side.
Its sole i>of'uliarity was the beauty of the Imiidmills, made of
the hardest and finest grey granite?. We tlien struck over a
stony divide to the left, separating tho Wadys Iluwaya and
Umm Amil. Here lay signs of another Mashghal (atelier).
In front rose a fine landmark, the Khnrm (top) e!-Badarf)'^'ah
(*)0 kX*i\ A »ik,)- A tolerable track led to the summit of the
-J ' i ^^
Col at 9.45 A.M. ; and a vile descent presently landed us in the
Wady Umm Amil. The left bank of the hideous narrow gorge
showed a lino of water-pits, attributed to the Mutakaddimin —
the ancients. Crossing the torrent^gully, we left on ita right
bank tho foundations of large works. After a total ride of
4 houre (= 13 miles), and a morning spent in chasing the wild-
goose, we halted opposite three coutbless heaps of rolled stones,
surrounded by fine quartz. This " town*' had been grandiosely
described to the tirst Expedition by the citizens of Ziba, who
declared the distance to be 4 hours instead of 7 hours 30
minutes. The Bedawin, on the other han<l, assured us that the
stages, Shaghab — Umm Amil and Umm Amil — Ziba, were the
same measure ; when the former occupied 12 hours 15 ininutes,
and the latter 7 hours ^0 minutes. Ihe iSuyyid suggested that
the name " Mother of the (fellow) Workman ' is a corruption of
Mu'amil (one who laljoura with others). I would also conjecture
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
that here the slave-minera were stationed ; olrl Ziba being the
masters' abode. At the const-town we found some specimens of
fine and heavy red copper, which had been dug out of a ruined
furnace in Umm AmiL
At noon we rode down the ugly rocky watereoiirse. both of
Avhose banks showed long lines of razed and broken building.
Presently, crossing a divide marked by two stonedxeaps, we
fell into the broader but equally unpicturcsque Wady 8almd
(IJl-j)-* It lies in about the parallel of Ziba (n. lat. 27° 20');
and we must add 1^ 20', instead of 1', if we would connect it with
Ptolemy's Mesogaian Kutfirj, tMillcd ^a\^a (VI. vii.). Wady
Salma is the smalleKt, and the northernmost of the three basins
which we have just visited ; the central being the Wady
Damah, and the southern Wady 81iaghal*-Asliih-Aznab.
We presently passed on the left b;ink the delxjuchure of the
Wady llitways. After a hot ride of 1 hour 45 minutes ( = 6 miles),
and a total of 5 hours 4.j minutes (= U> miles), down the dull
line, we camped on the iloor of fine Siinds, hemmed in by tall
musses of monotonous trap. The adjacent scatter of Arab wells
in the bed is known as the Ma el-Badi'ah (josjJO the "Water
of Wonders "). I carefully asked aljout ruiua in tho neighbour-
hood, and we climbed the torrent-sides io command a bird's-eye
view of the adjacent liill-chaos. According to the guides, there
are no remains of the "old ones" nearer tlian those uf Umm
AmiL
March 5th. — Wo set out at 5.45 a.m. down the Wady Sabn4;
and half an hour showed us its lower course constricted to
a mere gorge by two opposite rocks. On the left bank lies a
group of Arab graves, which may have taken the place of
Rome ancient atelier. The right bank here receives the Wady
Haraimil, as the broad-apeakmg Bedawin pronoimce *' Haray-
mal ( \l ^ the " Little Peganum) ;*' and we struck up the
Shatiu {^^J^j^)f el-Hnraymal, or (Water?) parting of the
Haraymal. Then we fell into the Wady Aba Kikavy (of Wells), J
remarkable only for the quantity of its brackish water.
Below, it takes tho name of Wady Kifafi (not Kafafa), and dis-
charges into the sea north of the Wady Salma (Ad. Chart,
* Balma (codiDC viib tbe Ya-aliO i<i tlio aotno of ft tribe, b \roman, and a
tnouittain, also of the south wind.
t Shikjtn, the root, loeans opfio^ition ; hcacc 8hHyt£n = Satan.
I Raki'y, Id pure Arabic, the plur. of Kakiyat, a (cluan) 'woU or water-pit.
a 2
84 BlTtTON'a Itineraries of the SecoJid Expedition into MIdian.
27° 18'). It has been erroneously connected with the latter, as
in Niebuhr's " Sulina ukesale," which Spreiiger (p. 24) forrects
to Selma \va Kiifafa.* A third divide to the north led along
the eastern flank of the Jebel Ahii Rish, whii-h is visible from
the otKng ; and, reaching the Ool, we saw the lied Sea about
Ziba.
The track then deso&nds into the Wady Sidrah (of the Single
Lotus-tree), whose lol't bank is Jbrmed by the HalVa Ziba, the
"yellow (hill) of ZiUl," a name which well describes its citron-
coloured complexion. Here we fosind only blue tpiart^ stained
with carbonate of copper. The " Ytxiloy ol tlie (one) ZizyphuB,"
after narro^ving to a stony gate, suddenly flarea out as it falls
into the Wady Ziba ; and we reached the far-famed wells after
4 hours (=11 miles). In my vol. i. p. 31J7, 1 confounded the
" Sultan's Wells," the Birket, and the " Euntich's Grave,'' in one
glorious blunder.! The Hat surrounding the cove-head is
remarkably well grown with the two common varieties of palras,
the Date and the Dunm: it still deBervea the title "Plioenikon
Konie." I have already protested (vol. i. chap, xi.) against the
derivation of the word, and the identilication with '* Jlippos," pro-
posed by my learni'<l fi-icnd Spreuger {" Alt. Gcog.', p. 24), His
theorv was probably suggested by Yakut (iii. 4(34), who writes
Dhablja, and places the post 70 miles from Bada. The people
universally spell the word with a zad (\ ,^) ; and never with a
za (ij) which would make it signify *' gazelles ;" and lastly, the
terminal aspirate (tv*/. Zibdh) is unknown to tlieni. Older
names are Bir el-Sultdni, and Kabr el-Tuwiislu', for which see
the Haji's route. The single well of Sultan Selim (?) has now
grown to four, alt large and stone-lined.
We found the best pitcliing-ground to be on the site of old
Zib;i, a strip of sand sheltered by the tall soa-elin', and forming
the northern shorts of the inner cove, behind the new town.
Hero the stones, buried for ages under the sand, are now dug^
up to build its successor. This second visit made me think
better of the settlement, and of the harbour, concerning which
VVellstcd (ii. 181) wrote, *' At Sherm Dhoba the anchorage is
small and inconvenient, and could only be made available for
boats or small vessels." Dredging the sandbar, and cutting the
soft sandstone, will give excellent shelter and, some say, a depth
* For the derivation of the name see the Houtc-liuc of iraji Khalifalk at the
end ol' tbU paper.
t See * Thu Land of Midioa (BeTiaited),' chap, zii,, and the Boute-line at the
end of this paper.
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 85
of 17 fathoms. The settlement is far superior, especially as
regards potable water, to El-^[uwaylali ; it exports charcoal in
large quantities, and it drives a thriving business witli the
Bedanin. There are beginnings of a pier, and a mosque is
building. The fish is excellent and abundant ; lobsters are
caught by night near the reefs, and oysters iu the buy when the
tide is out» Shoes are to bo bought : * as at El-'Akabah,
"Hashish" may Iw found in any quantity, but no " 'Knki ;" and
yet one of the chief traders is a Copt, who finds it convenient to
become a Moslem.
Some of our first inquiries were concerning the Jebel el-
Fayruz (*' Turquoise hill''). I had seen during our provions
expedition a splendid s{>ecimeu of this gem ; and all the coast-
people described the lapis Pharanites of ZiIki as the Ijest they
Knew. The immediate result of qnestioning wsis a general
denial that anything of the kind existed. Fnrayj, however,
engaged as guide an old Cedawi, Sulaym el-^fakrati ; and his
aon was sent on to gather all the " Fayniz " he could find.
Here also we collected notices concerning the ruin " £1-
M jirmah," which has been identiOed with ihe 'VavvdOov Kwfirj
placed by Ptolemy in n. lat. 25^ 40'. The site is said to l>e a
branch valley of the Wady Azlam, the first of the three pilgrim-
marches between Zibsi and El-W'ijh. This watercourse shows,
above the modern Uajj-station, the ruins of a fort built by
8ultan Selim. Wellstod also mentions (ii. 183) a castle lying
three miles inland. The {)eopIe describe Jljirmah as an ancient
gold mine (?) ; and the house-foundations anri a " well with
steps " still, they say, remain. Our day of rest (llarch 6)
ended at 7 p.m. with a heavy storm of wind and rain from
the north.
March 1th. — The caravan marched straight northwards along
the shore, by tJie Ilajj-road, to its eauiping-grouud in 2 houra
{=5 miles). Meimwhile M. Marie and I, ae(!on)[)anied by
Furayj and the old Bedawi, set off for the tiuvjuoise-mine. At
6 A.M., crossing the broad pilgrim-track, we struck eastward at
» place where the seconflary gypsTini subtends the coralline
Jblaise. After 45 minutes we traversed the Wady Zahakan.
( . ilSCs-^)' ^^6 southernmost pass over the Slnirr (proper) ; and
presently we ascended a brancli that falls into the right bank.
As we advanced it became a rock-walled stone-soled tunnel,
very interesting after such dull tlat breadths as the Wady
Salma. The overfulb of rock, and tho thorn-treee, which iu
* B6C ' The Land of Midian (Revisited;,' chap. xii.
86 Burton'* Itineraries of the Secortd Expedition into Midiaji.
places occupy singly the whole had, nerfissitnted, a» usual in
such narrows, frequent zigzags up and (luwn tho rooky bunks.
Altera nmuber of divides, we entered the W'ady Hashsliah. witle
and good for riding ; and, at 8.30 A.M., we passed into tJw Wady
Umra Jirmah.
Here immense quantities of broken quartz, distinguished by its
pretty pink colour, denoted the Mashghal (atelier). The rock
appeared in large ramifications, mostly striking east-west, and
in little 'pitons dotting the wady's sole and sides. After another
half-houl- we dismounted at the watershed of the Wady el-
Ghal ( Vvi),* where the greybeard guide lost no time in losing
his head. The Jebel el-Glial, whoso folds fall into its watetv
course, is a dettiched block rising nearly due south nf southern
" Sljarp Peak " in tho Admirahy Chart ; while the mouth of tho
Ghal Cove, breaking tho soa-elilT, bears 270'^ (uiig-) from the
summit. It lies 3 hours {= 1(J miles) n.n.e. of Ziba, and it
rises 350 feet above the sea-level (aner. 29 "75). The mass is
composed of porphyritic trap, and of the hardest felspars, veined
with chocolate-coloured granite, the latter being the true
fangue. We failed to find the precious stone, and accordingly
determined upon another attempt.
After buikliug a " stone man " on the finial of the Jebel el-
Ghtil, wo reraounted and struck seawards. Some ugly divides
led us, in half an hour, to a broad Fiuraara well-grown with
palm-buBli, the veritable Wady el-Ghal. From this point a total
of 1 hour 1.") minutes ( = 4 miles) to the west, and a grand total
of 4 hours ir> minutes ( = 14 miles), placed us in camp. It had
been pitched at tho Mahattat el-Ghul, on the nortli bank,
where the " winter-torrent," falling into the sea, has cut a cove
in the cliff.
Here the best of news awaited us. Lieut. Yusid", who this
morning had rejoined the Expedition, reported that all my
requests had been granted; that our friend the Sinnm- was
to take tho place of the lively Mukhhir, and that ratious and
stores were on the way. I felt truly grateful to his Highness
and to tho Prince Minister for the gracious interest they had
taken in tho Expedition.
During the day a Jerafin Bedawi, Selim ibn Musallim,
brought in scorim of copper and iron ; and, on the morrow, I
sent him as guide to Lieut. Yusui^ with an escort of two
soldiers and eight quarrymeu on seven camels. After three
* Oh&ll me&n^ thtf gi-ound producing the thorny Salam-troe ; it is also a namo
of the targe Ambiao lizard.
Bubton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 87
days' fibsence (March 8-10), the officer rejoined us and reported
as follows : —
T/eaving the Mahattat el-Ghal, he struck up its watercourse,
and then turned suuthwards into the long^ Wady Unim Jirmah.
A ride of 7.J miles ( = 5;i direct) placed him upon the Jebel
el-Fayriiz, a rounded eniiuencki ot no great heiji^ht, showing
many signs of work, especially 3 or 4 cuttings some '2U inches
deep.
Here a Lilloek to the north-west supplied the scoriae before
mentioned, Lieut. Yusuf blasted the chocolate-coloured quart-
zoso rock in four places, tilled as many sacks, and made the pil-
grim-road in the Wady cl-llu'arrash (^a jt.^), leaving to the
left its red block, the " Hamra el-Mu'arrash." flia specimens
were very satisfactory, except to the learned geologists of the
citadel, Cairo, m ho pronounced them to be carbonate of copper.
They evidently ignored the difference between silicates and
carbonates.
I made many inquiries, but could hear nothing, of the
" Jamast." Tlio dictionaries describe it as a blue gem
(turquoise (?) Ibimd near El-Medinah. It is made into cups
(for Raki), which "have the singular property of preventing
those who drink out of them from being intoxicated, and also
of causing pleasant dreams," Meninski (sui voce) writes
Gemset, makes the colour violet or red, and derives it from
diggings distant three marches from the city of the Apostle.
March i<th. — Our t^outhern journey ended with a dull ride
along the Haj_j-road northwards. Passing the creek, Abii Sharir,
which, like many upon tliis coixst, is rendered futile by a wall of
coral-reef, we threaded a long Hat, and in 2 hours ( = 7 milesj
we entered a valley where the Secondary formation again sbowea
its debris. Hero is the Manattat el-Husaa (the " Stallion's
Leap"), a large boulder showing hoof-prints. The horse, '' El-
Ma«hhur," lived in the Days of Ignorance, others add when the
Beni 'Ukbah were warring with the Baliyj'. It torajiorarily
saved its master's life by alighting upon this boulder, «hich
then fillf d the pass. A similar story Mill be found in Palmer's
' Desert of the Exodus ' (p. 42) ; and both show that a noble
breed has existed where nothing but a donkey can now live.
Perhaps, also, the Midianite tradition may descend from a
source which, still older, named tho"l7r7ro? Kotfitj.
We then fell into the Wady Jibbah, passed the JL-bel cl-Ivibrit,
examiuml M. Philiptn's work, and, led over a vile and very
long *' short-cut," found ourselves once more on board the
MiUihbir,
88 Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Erpcdition into Midian.
4 li. 15 111,
= 10 slow miles
4h.
= 104 „
4 li. m m.
= 11 „
5 h. 15 m.
= 13i „
3h.
=* 9i „
1 h. 30 m.
= 3 „
2 h- 15 m.
= 5i „
4h.
^11 „
5 h. 45 xa.
= 17 „
4 b.
= 10 „
4 h. 15 m
= 14 „
7h.
= 22 „
5 h. 45 ro
= 19 „
4li.
= 11 „
4 h. 15 m.
= U „
4 h. 15 m.
= 16i „
67 h. 40 m.
= 1971 »
The following is a synopsis of stations and dates : —
1. Fcl), UK El-Miiwnykh to the Safh ..
2. „ 20. To the Hayl Wady cl-Jimm
3. „ 21. „ El-Nagwah
4. „ 22. „ MiyAh el-Rik4b .. ..
5. „ 23. „ Itas W.idy SM.lr .. ..
: 6. „ 24. Up tbc Pa«H to the Hisiui ..
7. „ 25. To the Jayh el-Kburaytat ..
8. „ 26. „ the MiijiA el-Ruways
9. „ 27. „ Wady Ddniah
10. „ 28. „ Kuiijs of tShiiwak
11. Mar. 2. „ Phai;hab and Magrdh cl-Waghir
12. „ 3. „ El-Kut!iyyifiib
13. „ 4. „ Umm Ainil and Ma cl-Baili'kh
14. „ 5. „ Zib4 ,
15. „ 7. „ J. and W. El-GhAl
16. „ 8. „ Sharm Ydbarr ,
Grand total ..
Here my distances are somewhat understated, as they would
give a rate of less than 3 miles (statute) per hour. Lieut.
x\jniir'8 estimates (222 miles), laid down upon the map, repre-
sent a fraction more.
V. Ascent of the Shurr Mountain. — For long months the Jebel
Shdrr, the grand block which baciis El-^ruwajlah, liad haunted
118, starting up iinexpcctedly in all tlirections with its towering
heads, that sbiftod shape and colour from every angle and
with each successive cliango of weather. We could hardly
leave unexplored the classical " Hippos Mens," the Moslem 8
El'Isht'trah (the " Landmark ")j and the " Bullock's lloms" of
the prosaic British navi_s;ator (L-win, 1777); while the few
vacant days, caused by the non-arrival of the SinnAr, offered
an excellent opportunity far studying the "Alpine ranges" of
Sfaritime Ulidiau. Niebuhr (Flora /Eiji/pt.-Arahica) justly says
of this coast farther south, "Altitudiue prodigiosa et prse-
mpta eminent montes, liaud pauci sublimern atniosphecra) regi-
onera attigentes .... liceat montes istos Alj'es nominare vel
cum Alpibiis conferrc." Bo it so! but, hh Sir Frederick
Henniker remarked, they are " Alps unclothed."
The atony height-* beyond El-^^uwaylal^ contain, they said,
wells and water in abundance, Avitb palms, remains of furnaces,
and other attractions. Every gun was brought into requisition
by tales of leopards and ibex, the latter attaining the size of
bullocks (!), and ncrasionally iiudini^ their way to the Fort.
1 was anxious to collect specimens of botany and natural history
from an altitude hitherto unreached by jiny traveller in this
part of Western Arabia, and, lastly, there was geography as
well as mineraloL'v to he done.
J
The Hydrographic Chart gives the mountain a nQaximum of
9000 feet, evidently a clerical error often repented. Really
thejse Admiralty gentlomeu are too incurious ! Their careless-
uesa has im[X)8ed upon so careful a workman as the late
Lieut. Raper, p. 527, * The Practice of Navigation,' sixth edi-
tion. Wellstetf, who surveyed the Sharr, observes (ii. 176),
"The height of the moat elevated peak was found to be
6500 feet, and it obtained from us the appellation of " l^Iovvilahh
High Peak," whereas there are native names for every hend.
We had been couvincL'd that the smaller is the correct measure
by our view from the Hisma plateau, 3S00 feet above sea-level.
Again, the form, t!ie size, and the inclination of this noble
massif are wrongly laid down by the Hydrographers. It is a
compact bk)ck, everywhere rising abruptly from low and sandy
watercourses, and comjtletely detached from its neighbours by
the broad wadys, the Surr to the north, and southwards the
fiuTvayd and the Zabakan. The huge long-oval prism measures
19^ miles by [y ( = 97^ square milea of area), and its lay is
320" (ma^.), thua deHocted 40" westward of the magnetic
north. The general appearance, seen in profile from the west,
is a central apex, with Iwn others on each side, tossed, as it
were, to the north and south, and turning their backs upon one
another.
Moreover, the chart assigns to its "Mount Jlowilah" only
two great culmiimtions — " Sharp Peak, 6330 feet," to the nortli,
and "High Peak, 9000/' south of it Some careless coufusiou
has also introduced a second *' Sharp Peak " much farther
north, with exactly the same altitude (6330 feet) : the latter is
probably the Jebel el-Sbati ( A^tl;), in the Urnub block.
The surveyors doubtless found difficulty in obtaining the Be-
dawi names for the several features, which are unluiown to the
citizens of the coast, but they might ciisily have consulted the
only authorities, the .1 eratin-Huwaytat, who graze their flocks
and herds on and around the mountain. As usual in Arabia,
the four several main " horns " are called after the Fiumaras
that drain them. The northernmost is the Abu Gusayb
(Kusayb), or Raa el-Gusayb f: . ^'iy the "Little Beed,"
a unity composed of a single block and of three knobs in a
knot. The tallest of the Tatter, especially when viewed from
Che south, resembles an erect and retlexed thumb; hence our
'* Sharp Peak." Follows Umm el-Funit (i?. ^), the "Mother
of Plenty" (or "Superiority"), a mural crest, a rjuoin-shaped
vail, clitliug to the south. The face, perpendicular where it
i
90 Bdrton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
looks seawnrds, bears a succession of sears, upright gashes, the
work of wind and weather; and the body which supports it is a
slope disposed at tlie natural angle. An " inuoiniuatus/' with
the semblance of a similar quoin, is separated by a deep Col,
apparently a torrent-bed, from a huge Beco de papagaio, — the
"Jrarrot's Bill," so common in the Brazil. Tliis is the Abu
Shenazir ( SI-. v.)/ orShaykhaiiib ((^j'j;^:; .^*,). the "Father
of Columns,"! the " High Peak " of the Ad. Chart. It is the
most remiirkiible tVature of the sea-fa<^e, even wLon it conceals
the puif of towering pillars that show consspicuously to the
north uud south. From the beak-shaped apex the range
begins to decline and fall to the south. There is little to
notice in the fourth horn, whose unimportant items, the Ras
Lahyanah (^'u:^ij),t the Jebel Malih, and the Umm Gisr
( ^..^ ), end the wall. Each baa ita huge white wady,
striping the country in alternation with the normal dark-broivn
divides, and trending coastwards in the usual network.^
The materia! of the four crests is the onlinary grey granite,
lumpy masses of immense size, rounded ofl* by scaling and
degradatiou ; all chasms and naked columns. Here and there
a sheet burnished by tlie action of catiiracts, and a slide
trickling with water, unseen in the shade, and flashing like
crystal m the sun, broidc its uniformity. The gi-anite, however,
is a mere mask or excrescence, being everywhere based upon,
and bucked by, the red felsite and the green plutonic traps
which have enveloped it. And the prism has no easy sIoi>e,
eastward or inland, as a first glance suggests : nor is it
the sea-wall of a great plateau. It fails almost as abniptly
to the east as to the west ; the country behind it being a per-
spective of high and low hills, lines of dark rock divided from
one another by wadys of exaggerated «ize. Only one of these
minor heights, the Jebel el-Sahb^rah (^ \.;s;Uw)j looks down
uix>n the sea, rising between the Dibbagh-Kh'shabriyyah block
to the north, and the Sharr to the south. Beyond the broken
eastern ground the ruddy Ilisma and the gloomy Harrah form
the fitting horizon.
The following section will treat mainly of the routes along
* " Bhanzarat " in dictionary Arabia means ruggednesa, or the being rti^ed.
t And. as if two natiica did mot Builico, it has n tliird, Bat el-Uuxtays ( .
of the ■' Little Cistern "). \>JP^.i=*^
X Lihyiin la ii f,iilly, gutter, or furrow ma^le by n torrent.
§ On tho return march (March 18th) wo crossed the Wadys Umm Giir
MaliL, Lidtyaaah, Cayza, and Umuiayyaz el-Bayza.
IiuHTON'i» Itineraries of the Second Erpedition into Midian. 91
and around the Sharr. I have pubh'shed elsewhere * a descrip-
tioa of the Monarch of Midianite mountains in his picturesque
form.
MarchVdth. — The camels came late from El-Muwaylah ; and it
was nearly 9 a.m. iKjfore we left the Miikhhii\ landed at the head
of Sharm Yiiharr, and marched up the slinrt AA' ady Harr. TLis
watercom-se drains the tallcHt ol the hillucky siil>-ntnge:^, the
red rock " llamra el-Maysarah " (** of the Jlaysar plant "?) Our
guides, two sturdy mountaineers of the JeniJin-Iliiwaytat, then
atmek eastward over a short divide to the Wady Sanawiyyah.
It ia a vulgar valley witli a novelty, the Tamrat Faraj. This
buttress of brick-coloured boulders, blocking the riglit bank,
has or is saitl to have the meninonic property of emitting
sounds — yarinn ( .,^) is the JJedawi word. The valley -sides
of dark trap are striped with white veins of heat-altered
argile, the sole with black magnetic sand ; and patches of the
bed were buttercup yellow with the dandelion ( \ . ), the
Cytisiifl and the '' Zaram " \^^ = Panicum turgidum)y
loved by camels. Their jaundiced hue contrasted vividly with
the purple and mauve blossoms of the bugloss (El-Kahla
\^^\ the blue flowerets of the lavandula (El-Zayti) and
the delicate green of the useless asphodel (El-Borag ^ . o)
"which now gave an aspect of verdure to the slopes. Although
the rise was inconsiderable, the importance of the vegetation
palpably decreased as we advanced inland.
In 1 houi* 30 minutes ( = 4 miles), we reached the wady-
bead, and wjisted a couple of hours (10,15 a.m. — 12.30 p.m.)
awaiting the caravan. The path then struck over a stony
waterparting, with the " Hamra " to the left or north ; and, on
the other side, the familiar Jebel el-Mu'arrash. The latter ends
in an isolated peak, Jebel Gharghur ( ,J; ^) ; which, on our
retm-n, was mistaken for the Sulphur Hill of Jibbah. We then
renewed acquaintance with the Wady el-Dayzii (" White
'Nullah"); hero it is a long, broad and tree-dotted bed, glaring
withal, imd subtending this section of the Sharr's sea-faciug
base. We reached, after 1 hour 15 m inutes ^ = 4 miles) and a total
of 2 J hours ( =8 miles), the Jibal ol-Kawaim, or *' The Per]ipn-
diculars," one of the features which the Bedawin picturesquely
• * The Land of Midimi (Kevisitetl),' clmp. xiii.
&2 Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
call the AvJdd el-Sharr ('* Sons of the Sharr "). The three
heatls project westwards from the Uinni Fuiut Peak, and then
trendiug northwards, form a picturesque lateral valley known
US Wady el-Kaiinnli, The profile of No. 3 peak, the Kaimat Abii
lit'tki', Hhows a snub-nosed face in a judicial wig. The Wew was
charming ; especially so long aa lasted " The pathos of the
■after-glow."
Our catupiiig-r!;round was the Safli el-Sharr (" Plain of the
Shan* ") ; and the lateial valley was strewed with quartzes,
white, pink and deep-slaty blue, which the guides derivfd from
a " Jebt'l cl-Miiru." The night wiis still and warmed by the
radiatjou of heat from the huge ruck-runge behind us. Dew
fell like thin rain ; we now remarked this meteor for the first
time; and the guides declared that this efl'ect of humid at-
mosphere would last during the next three mouths. Wallin,
writing from the Hisma, in February (2t3th, 184r&), notices the
nightly dew, wliieh he had obs<-n-VHd in the deserts near the
Nile, and (m the lied Sea coast, but never iu Arabia* Thus he
explatus the instances of chest disease which, very rare amongst
the Bedavvjn of the interior, are found on the north-western
e<lee of El-Nejd,
march l\th. — At G a.m. we ascended, by a long leg to the
south-east, the Wady el-Kaimah in search of the Quartz Hill.
An abrupt furn to the north-east thcuoe h'd over rough ground,
the lower folds of the Umra Funit, where a great gnuiite gorge,
the Nukb Abu Sha'r, ran up to a fleprefiHinn in tho dorsum, an
apparently practicable Col. Suddenly the rocks assumed the
strangest hues and forms. The qmirt/,, sluty-blue and black
below, was here spotted and streaked with u dull dead while,
as though stained by the droppings of luyrJad binls : there it
lay veined and marbled with the most vivid of rainbow-colours,
reds and purples, green.s and yellowK. Evident signs of work
were remarked in a made mad, runniJig up to the "Jebel
el-Maru " (pru])er), whose strike is 38'^ (tnag.), and whose dip
is westward. I have elsewhere t described this aretCt thie
cockscomb of snowy quartz, some GO feet high by 45 of basal
breadth.
lleturning to our old camping-ground, having ridden 3 hours
30 minutes ( = 9 niilps), we crossed a divide to the Wady el-
IWdlihah (the "Salt Valley"); and another to the Wady el-
Kusayb, where a few formless heaps represented the ruins Bo
grandly reported to us (February 19th). AVe encamped after
1 hour clO minutes ( = 4^ luilos), making a total of 5 hours
* He ulludcs to hk first joarney (IS45), from the loutberD extremity of the
Dciid Sift to tlio Jebel Sbniiiiiuir.
t • Tlio Land of Midian (Uevisited),* chap. xiU.
Burton'/s Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 03
( = 13^ miles), on a "8afh," the hiprh bouldery bank of tlie
Wady Snrr, where it receives the W'ndy el-Kuswb ; and we
passed the greater part of the night battling with the warm,
gusty and violent north-easter.
March loth. — Sending the caravan up tlio Wady Surr, we
set out at 6 a.m. up the "Wady '' Alalayh " (Jralih), the north-
eastern branch fulling into the rond 2>oiHt' whero we had nif^hted
on February 10th. Passing u few Arab tents, we Ldimbed
across country to the Jebel Mah'h, of whose inf^tallic wealth I
had received notable reports ; and from which accordingly 1
expected mighty little. We found literally nothing ; but a
few days afterwards, splendid sjM.'cimens ot cast copper were
brought from it by a Bedawin. In the wady below is a large
puddle of brackish water: hence probably the nunu' — ''salt"
(Malih) not "pleasant" (Malih) valley. The element here is
abundant, the thrust of a stick in the sands of there-entering
angles is followed by the reappearance of stured*up rain. It
may also have been called after the Malih plant {Lindenhergia
Sinaica).
Eesuming our ride up the wady-bed, and crossing a divide
to the Wady Daumah (of the "one Daum "), we drugged our
mules down the precipitous left hank, a ladder of rock and
boulder, and presently found ourselves in the upper Wady Surr.
!Broad and well-grown Avith vegetation, fan-palm and thonis,
it definej^, sharply as a knife-cut, the northernmost outlines of
the mighly ISharr; whose apex, E!-Kusayb, towered above our
heads. Farther on we came upon what seemed to bo a ilowing
stream : the guides, however, declared that it rolls nothing but
rain, being bone-dry in summer. There the rocky bed made a
sharp turn from east to south ; and its *' gate " opened upon
another " broad," formed by the meeting of four wadys. Alter
riding 3 hours ( = 7 miles) wo dismounted to inspect the rude
ruins of El-Zebayyib whieli Imd been visited by Mr. Clarke.*
This site is interesting, and yet, curioius to say, it shows no
signs of water nor of pahii plantations. Here the Wady JSurr,
sweeping from the south and bending abruptly to the west or
seaward, receives a northern influent, the short watercourse
draining the ruddy Aba 'l-burid peak. The ruins stand a cheva?
npon another and eastern feeder, the Wady Zubayyib. Nearly
opposite it, the Shiirr bhjck is broken by the Sha'b Makhul,
the eastern versaut of the Nakb Abu Sha'r ; but instead of the
fairy wall of creamy and snowy quartz, there is a corresponding
crest of gloomy black plutonic matter, ugly and repelling as
gnome-land. The Bedawin distinguish between the eastern and
• See, ante, p, 58, and * The Land of Miilitto (Revisited),' chap. x.
JuBTOX * Itinrraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
western faces of the sarae block, and also between the wadys
of the scarp and the counterscarp : for instance, the oriental
front of the Ras el-Kusayb is called Alni Kurayg (^.^ C/- This
is nataral, as the formations, often of a totally difierent ma-
terial, show contraatinn; features.
Still ascending the Wady Surr, we passed on the right bank the
Wady el-Hamah (a.^'l:s;0\)» which receives the Wudy KL'shab-
riyyah before noticed. The latter, bifurcating in the upper bed,
drains the Dihbagh and the Umm Jedayl blnck.-i, and in the
fork lie, we were told, the ruins of El-Fara', some 5 hours'
inarch from this section of the Wady Surr. The ward means
*' the upper part of a valley ;" and hence possibly the mysterious
" Fara' el-Samghi" which appears in my vol. i. p. 129. After
marching 1 hour (=3 railce) more, and a total of 4 hours
30 minutes (= 1 IJ^ miles), the guides made us camp at the foot
of the ascent to bo attacked next morning They declared
that the Sha'bs (Cols) generally cannot be climbed, even by
the Arabs ; I have reason to believe the reverse. Our ground
was called Safhat el-Wu'ayrat ^^^ t-^5)' **°^ ^^^^ ^''^^^ Wa'r,"
from a slaty schistose-trap hill on the eastern bank of the
Wady Surr: here also stood a "Mashghal" where copper was
worked. Ureat excitement at night, when the Bcdawiu brought
us in live specimens of that metal, incontinently declared to
be gold !
March IGth. — At 6 a,m. we attacked the Sharr, in a general
direction from north to south. On the left bank of the water-
course rises a porphyritic block; an easy slope, dotted here and
there with natural pilings of black rock, which look almost
artificial. The sum nut is a horizontal crest, a broken wall,
above which, on a more distant plane, rise the Shendzir, or
" Pins," the two granite columns which an: visible as far as the
Sharr itself. This lower block is bounded, north and south, by
gorges, fissures that date from the birth of the mountain. In
the former direction yawns tlie ♦Sha'b, technically called the
Eushih ( . *■ ) Ahi TiTMZtb (^^^l'.\^). " Droppings of the
Father of the Tanzub tree " (Sodada deeidua). Southwards
the Sha'b Umm Kharjah ( ^k,^^ \^ ) defines the outlier.
The ascent of this foot-hill occupied three very slow hours,
and at 9 a.m. we stood 3200 feet above the sea-level (aner. 26*79).
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Mitlian. 95
The only semblance of a climb was at the crest-wall of brown,
burnished imd quartzless traps. What most struck me was the
increased initiortaiioc ol" tho vopjetation, evidently the result of
more rahi^ dew and cloud-shade. Here, besides Rumex and
Turcueacum, appeared the strong-smelliog Ferula, the Sarh
(^ ,^)>* attaining the stature of a tree, and the homely
hawthorn ( ^^ wC. Cratoetpis). The Arab word ckissically means
the cypress or the juuiper-tree ; in Jeremiah, where it occurs twice
(xvii. 6 and xlviii. 6), the Eng. version renders it by " heath."
It is now generally translated " savin " [Junij^rus Sahina),
a shndt whose jnirple berries have a .strong turpentine flavour.
The wliole of the upper granite must have grown, in sheltered
places, fine junipers, locally called StbiiaA (jt,^^.,,^^^); the few
that now remain are as thick as a man's liody. There are
some signs of the ibis, hyaena and leopard ; of the eagle and
the 8plendid caccabis (El-Shinuar)^ of white and yellow but-
terflies, of ladybird-like Bavzahf of the wild bee and of the
common housefly ; the latter is very abimdant in Midian, even
when " organic matter " is apparently wanting.
The summit of the outlier is an inverted arcli, with a hill,
or rather a tall and knobby outcrop of rock, springing from
either flank uf the horizontal key. The inland (east) view was a
panorama of the region over which we had travelleiJ, a network
of little chains, mostly nmning parallel with the Great Range ;
and separated from it by lateral, oblique, and perpendicular
wadys. Some of these torrent-beds were yellow, others pink,
and others faint, sickly green, with decomposed trap : all
carried a fair growth of thorn-trees — acacias and mimosas.
High over and beyond the Monarch of the Shafah Mountains,
Jeliel Sahharah, whose blue poll shows far out at sea, ran the
red levels of the llisma, backed at a greater elevation by the
straight lines of the black Harrah. The whole Tihainah range,
now so familiar to us, assumed a novel expression. The staple
material proved to be bltx'ks and crests of grumte protruding
from the younger plutunics, whicli enfolded and enveloped their
bases and bucks. The solitary exception was the dwarf Umm
Jedayl, a heap composed only of grey granite. The Jebel Kli'sha-
briyyah, in the Dibbugh Block, attracted every eye ; the head
was supported by a nock swathed as with sm old-fashioned
cravat.
Where the outlier-top is tolerably level, the shepherds had
• The pure Arabic " Sarli " means tall, largo trees, eapecklljr thuoe free from
tbonu.
1
96 Bueton'j jmntfTonV* ^the Second Expedition into Mtdian.
built small hollow piles of dn' stone, in which the newly-
yeaned are sheltered from the rude blasts. The view westwards,
or towards the sea wliich is not seen, almost justifies by its
Feculiarity the wild tales of the Bodawin. Our platform is, as
suspected, cut oil' from the hij^lier plane by a dividing;-g(irge
some 300 feet deep, but it is bridged over by a ridge. Beyond
it rises the great granite mask forming the apex, Down the
northern sheet-rocks trickled a thin stream that caught the sun ;
and thus the ravine is well supplied with water h\ two places.
South of it lies a tempting Cul with a slope, upparently easy,
which sepamtes a dull mass of granite on the right trom a
peculiar formation to the left. Tiie latter is a dome of grey
granite, smooth, polished, and sliitpery, evidently impleasant
climbing ; and from its landward shipe rise abrupt, as if hand-
built, two isolated gigantic "Pins," which can hardly measure
less than 400 feet. They are the remains of a sharp granitic
comb, whose apex was onee the Parrot's Beak, The mass,
formerly mammilated, has been broken to denticulations by
the destruction of the softer strata: already the lower crest,
bounding the 8ha*b Umm Kbargah, shows perpendicular
slicings, which will form a new range of pillars when theso
huge columns shall have been gnawed away by the tooth
of time.
MM. Clarke, Lacaze, and Philtpin, set out at 11 A.M., with
n small party of quarrvmeii, to climb the Col, and lost no ti«no
in falling asunder. TLe latter made straight for *' The Pins,"
and, reaching a clump of smull junipers, was arrested by a
herffschnmde which divides this second outlier from the apes of
the Sliarr — the Dome and the Parrot's Beak. Consequently he
beat a retreat and returned to us after 3 hours 30 minutes of
exceedingly thirsty work. The Egyptians, of course, shirked,
enjoyed a sound sleeji, and sauntered back, declaring that
they had missed the " Effn-mdis." M, Philipin brought with him
an ibex-liorn still stained with blood, and a brancfi oi' juniper,
straight enough to make an excellent walking-stick.
The other two struck across the valley, and at once breasted
the couloir leading to the Col. They found more climbing than
they expected, and reached the summit, visible from our halting-
place, in 2 hours. Here they also were summarily stopped by
a crevasse shedding seawards and landwards. Unfortunately
they went without an aneroid. The time employed would give
about 2O00 feet; and thus their highest point could hardly
be less than 5200 ffot. Allowing another thousand for the
apex, which they could not reach, the altitude of the Sharr
would be between COOO and 6500 feet. They came back at
4 P.M., triumphant with the spoils of travel— a venomous snake
Burton'* Itineraries of tlic Second Expedition into Midian.
found basking near a trioklo of water* juuiper-leaves anJ berries
which seiT6 to ideritii'y the species ; a small helix picked up
near the summit, aiul sundry Alpine plants. Before the glootna
of night had set in we had descended, and were once more in
the tents.
March \lth.—y^e left Ei-Wu'ayrah at 6J5 a.m., riding, still
southwards, up the Wady Suit. TIh; stony broken surface now
showed that wn were fust approiichinjr its head. Beyond the
Umiu Khargali gorge, in the western block, rises the tall Itas
el-Kukabiyyali, and beyond it is a ravino in which palms and
water are reported. The o])posite (east) side is a monotonous
trap-curtuin, whose chief prnjectious are the Jebels el-Wu'ayrah,
el-Mu'fn, and JShahitah (a^>i.^\ * )■ A little beyond the
latter debouches the Darb el-Kufl (** Road of Caravans"), alias
EI-Ashan'f ('*uf the Sherifs"), a winding gap, the old line of
the Egyptian Pilgrims, by which the Beduwin still wend their
way to Suez. The broad mouth was dotted with old graves,
with quartz-capped memoriid cairns, and with blocks bearing
tribal marks.
After 2 hours HO minutes ( = 7 miles), we sighted the head
of the Wady Surr proper, a cluinning halting-place. Here the
amount of green surface, tlie number of birds, and the open
forest of thom-trees, argue that water is not far off. Our Arabs
determined to waste the rest of the day \ but we pushed them
on, and follovred iit 11 a.m.
The track led up a short, broad wady, separating the soutlieru-
most counterforts of the SLiarr from the north end of the .Jebel
el-Ghurab. This "Raven flluuntain" is a line of similar but lower
formation, wliicb virtually 2)rnking3 the great " Landmnrk."
Farther south lies, they say, a facile pass up the Wady Oujah
( i^^^ J ), an influent of the Wady Zahakan, near Ziba. The Col
el-Kuwayd \„^^), appeared one of the easiest we bail yet
seen, and we reached the summit in 40 minutes. The seaward
slope is a large outcrop of quartz in s//u, a dull, dead, chalky-white
variety, looking as if heat-altered and mixed with clay. The
rock-ladder, leading to the lower \\'ady Kuwavd, which has an
upper branch similarly named, offered no difficulty, and its height
proved to be 470 feet (aner. 28-13-28-50). Having marched
1 hour 15 minutes ( = 2 miles), or a total of 3 hours 45 minutes
( = J> miles), we found tiio caravan camped at the nearest ix>ol,
19i miles (dir, geog.) from our destination. An ugly Kham-
sin, togetlier with the heat of the enclosed valley, made sleeping
well-nigh impossible. This Sciiocco is locally called El-Du/un,
VOL. XLIX. H
■
i
98 Bubton':? Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
in full Duftm elSuray^d (of the Pleiades) : in classical Arabic,
as far as the tlietioimries f:;o, Dufun would derive from a root
meaning simply " burying."
MarcJi ISfL — We began our only long ride at 4-20 A-M., and
finished the monotonous W:uly Kuwayd, whicli mouths upon
the rolling ground falling coaatwards. The track then struck
to the north-west, across, and sometimes down, the network of
watercourses that subtends the south-western Sharr ; their unin-
teresting names have ab-eady been mentioned. After a total
march of 7 hours { = 22 miles), we debouched upon our old
Sharm, which showed, for the first time since its creation, two
wur-steamers with their "tender," the Sambuk. We were
delighted to tread once more the quarter-deck of the corvette
Sinn/ir (Capt. Hasan Bey), and all felt truly thankful to the
Viceroy and the Prince who had bo promptly and so con-
siderately supplied my various requisitions.
This march round the 8harr hud lasted six days (Jlarch 13-
March 18), The distance covered from the ship and back was
in ruund numbers Go miles : Lieut. Amir's map prolonged the
figure to 5!)|, The following is a list of stations and date^s: —
1. March 13. Shann Ydhilrr to the Eawaim .. 2 h. 45 ro. = 8 miles.
2. „ 14. To the Wttdy Surr 1 h. 30 m. = 41 „
3. „ 15. Sftflmt d-Wu'ayroh 4h. 30 m. = 111 n
4. „ 17. To iho Wady el-Kuwayd .. ., 3h. 45in. = 9 „
5. „ 1«. „ Sharm YAhirr 7h. 10ra, = 22 „
Totals .. .. 19h. 40m. = 55 „
The distances are probably too short, and Lieut, Amir's total,
5f)§, must be preferred, giving an average of a small fmetion
under 3 (stat.) miles [ler hour.
Our journey through Eastern or Central Midian thus lasted
18 days (Feb. liJ-March .s), including the halts (March 1
and 6). It concluded with an excursion of a short week
(March 13-18) io the apex of the country, the great Sharr.
Despite forcibly slow marches at the beginning, we covered in
round numbers, according to my route-book, 107^ miles ; Lieutw
Amir*8 map gives a linear length of 222 miles, not including
the ofisets. The second part represents 55 miles, besides the
ascent of the mountain to a height of about 5000 feet. The
mapper also increased this figure to 59^ ; and thus the route-
lino shows a grand total of 252j^ to 281^ statute miles. The
camels engaged Jroui Sliayhks 'Alayan and Hasan numbered
61, and the hire was 1-17?. (is. 6c?., without inclmling either 40Z.
of which we were plundered by the Beni Ma'azah, or the cost of
ascending tlie Sharr. The latter item (40/.) would raise the
grand total to 187?. Q». 6(1
I
This soiitliern journey proved by far the most interesting of
the three. Tbe refjion difters essentially from the northern,
wliieh had oeciipiod two months, mostly wasted. Had we
known what we do now, I should have begun with tbe end ;
and should huve devoted to it the greater part of our time.
The whole eastern countcrslone of tlie outliers, projecting from
the Gbsit section kuowu as tuo Jibal Tihamat Balawiyyah, is
one vast outcrop of quartz. The parallelogram between n. kt.
26'° 0', including the mouth of the Wady Hamz ( A ^«^)« and
3J. lat. 27'' 0', which runs some miles north of the Bada plain,
would form a Soutliern Grant sufBeiently large to be divided
and subdivided as soon as judged advisable.
The characteristics of North Midiau (Madyau proper) are
its argentiferous, and especially its cupriferous ores. South
Midian worked chiefly gold and silver, both metals being
mentioned by the meflireval Arab geographers. Spangles of
gold were noticed by the Expedition in the rosy micaceous
schistfi veining the quartz, and in the chalcedony-agate which
parts the granite frota tlie gneisa. The argentiferoua Neffro-
quartz everywhere abounds, and Bada showed strews of spalled
*' Marii," each fragment containing its block of lead almost
pure. Saltpetre is plentiful, and a third sulphur-hill rises from
tlie maritime plain north of the Wady Hamz.
I. Cruise io El-Wijh; March 21st. — At Sharm Yaharr two days
were employed in settling for post services, and in preparing for
our march. The whole Expedition, except only the sick left
at El-Muwaylali, was now bound southwards, "the Sayyid and
Shaykh Furayj accepted formal invitations to accompany us,
and the Bsish-BuKuks, Bukhayt and Husayn, were shipped as
their henchmen ; wliitst a score of soldiers and quarrymen
represented the escort and the working hands.
At G.30 A.M. the Sinndr, dashing into the dark and slaty sea,
tumbled by two days of equinoctial weather, stood to the south-
east. The Sharr loomed largo tlirough the mist, and the air
was 80 damp that our dry and wet bulbs showed a diftevence of
only 4^-5'', We noted the Eas el-Mu'arrjish (not ^laharash as
the Ad. Chart has it), and the lias Abu Shiirirah (not Abvr
sharirah)^ mere san<ly points with little projections of profile.
After the gap of the Wtwly el-Ghal, we passed, at 10 a.m., Ziba
with its dumpy tower. The high coralliQe bank, which forms
the "Bab," runs some distance down shore, allowing passage to
our ugly old friend, the Wady Salmd. Beyond that point the
H 2
100 Burton'* Itineraries ofiJve Secotul Expedition into JUtdian.
Wady9Rank( ij , "of turbid Water "), 'Amud (^.^1:1 "of
the Pillar "), ami El-lJuLarali, none of them found on the chart,
meander in usual Arabian fashion over all the land.
Off the northerD Wudy 'Amud,* the recipient of the Aba
Marwah gorge,! and by far the most important of these
features, lay two Sarabuks at anchor, and a long line of vegeta-
tion decks the shore. I cannot help suspecting that it is the
Wady 'Aunid ( ^x-J-j::) of geographers, a name utterly unknown
to the Arabs of those parts. El-Tdrisi can hardly be mistaken
when he says (iii. p. ^) "Theu> utter 'Akabat-Aylii, you eome to
El-'Aiinid, a liavon with notable water ; and fronting it is the
island EJ-Naman (read Ku'man), 10 miles from the shore,"
El-Mukaddasi adds (i. p. 101), " El-'Aiiuid lies on the coast of
Korh ( , *}>)>+ ^6ar Hijr, a flourishing city, producing much
honey and possessing a fine port." Can Hijr here lie Hajar,
"the Village," the port of Strabo's Egra, the modern Wijh,
and Korh the great Wady liurr ( j) to the south of it?
Sprenger (Alt. Geog. p. 24), induced it seems by the similarity
of sound, would derive the 'VawaBav KtatiJ} (Rhaunathi ricufl),
whicli Ptolemy places in N. lat. 25' 40', from 'Aiitifd, justly
observing that the Arabs often interchange the *Ayn and the
Ghayn (Gluiunid^ Rhaunathus), while the Latins convert the
hitter to "It," as "Razzia" for Ghazweh. Yet it is my belief
that the true ^^'ady 'Aunid is the Wudy 'Uwayidd. farther south.§
Below the Wady 'Aiinid, the Wady Dtltimh, halt\vay to the
Wady Azlam, falls into the sea north of Abii JIasarib (^_* \ .. ^
** of Pastures "), which the Ad. Chart calls Massahrib, and
Sprenger Mazarib. This lung thin point, aceording to my
frieud, represents the \ipa6vvr}<jo<; "Axpa (Chersmesi extrema)
■which Ptolemy places "jpc" the parallel of Khaunathus. Here
the coast-range, Jibul Tibaniat Calawiyyah, now distinguished
as the mountains of the lowlands of the JJaliyy-land, begins to
recede from the sea, and becomes mere hills and hillocks ; yet
• Thoro is a soutbeni Wady 'Amud, distinguished na the 'Amild Zafar / • •\
yihoao blue LIIIh we Bhall seu from SIiotdj Dumoyghah. \J**^/i
i Seo Pnrt II. SGcl. iv,
X " Kurlj" with tUo short vowel would incftu water gushing fmm a well.
§ Seo Fart II. 8ccl.iii. The 'Ayii ia tlit^ llch. Oin, and the Ghoyn is not foaiKi
in that dtaluct; licuoo "Oreb"(a luvcu) bocomcv in Arabic ''Uburib," aud eo
forth.
■
Bukton'^ Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Afidian.
the contiuuity of the cbaiu is never completely tjcoken. At
noon we slipiwd iato the rtmnnel, about 1^ (n</f.' 10 nor GO)
mile broad, between the mninlaiul and the islet kiloiTn tis the
Jebel Nu'nifin ; eimilarty, Hiussiuii, island, is called Jq.\>61, a hill,
and never Jezirat, an island. This fcuture has a Vofig lean
tail, a Bandy flat which projects far to the iiurth-west several
parallel lines of rainbow-green reef. It first ajipears ^a^'a
narrow depressed quoin, 3 to 4 miles long by 1 broad ; its.
Jebel 18 composed of two dwarf hillocks, one rounded, the otlyei","-
flattened. lloth rise a little above the dorsum of desert-like-;
material : yellow sandstones and corallines, whose ctark-metalled
snrfiice is dotted witli shrubs. We did not, however, find the'
Nu'man plant {Eujihorbia retusa\ which is supposed to have
given it a name. The rock gains height to the south-east, /'I
and forms four blufls with horizontal iuul jnirallel stratification,
mueh worked by wind and water. Two fine bays, faring the
mainland, afforc! excellent anchorage. The northern showed
a Sumbuk hauled down for cleaning, a fishing-eanoe lurking
near the shore, and Arab tents on the plateau behind. The
other, adjoining it to the south, is of larger size, not a littlo
resembling Sinafir : at its bottom, behind the sands, rises a rod
piton, possibly the core of the islet, with a fiidal rock not unlike,
from our rfLnge of view, a gigantic " Krupp."
During the return emise we landed upon Nu'man, and
examined it carefully. like the Dalmatian Arehijteiago, it
was once mainland, probably separated by the process that
raised the maritime mnge. The rolling sandy platform and the
dwarf wadys are strewn witl^ trap and quartz, which were never
prodticed in siiti, on this bit of rock. During spring-tide the
Hnwaytilt transport their fiocks in the light craft called
" Kati'raLs," and keep them wliile the pastures last. We made
extensive inquiries-, but we heard of no ruins ; and yet Sprenger
wouhl here locate the 'Ytfiayevov; w)o-o? {Tinrngenia insuJa) of
Ptolemy. If such be the ciise, either the Alexandrian or his
manuscripts must greatly err. He places the bank in N. lat.
25"^ 45', whereas its centre lies in N. lat. 27' 5', a diflerence of
1° 25'. His GO miles of tlistance from the coast, evidently tiic
blunder of a copyist, must also be reduced to a maximum of
three.
Passing the W'ady Surayya, and another old friend, the
Aslah-Aznab, down who.se head we had ridden to Shaghab, we
croBsed at 2 p.m. the mouth of the Wady Azlaiu ("of the Moun-
tain Goat"), the " Ezlam " wliich Wellsted (ii. 183) unduly niakea
the southern frontier of the Huwaytat, ami the northern limit of
the Baliyy tribes. Here the Jibal el-AzIani trending from the
north-east, abut upon, and run parallel with, the sea, i3eyond
i
BuetonV "ptntfrariw of the Second Expedition into Midian,
them lies tlve-^tarm Jezai ( \ i^, not Jizzeh nor Jezzay), a
white gap -in the line of dark-brown trap hills. Then comes
the similar" mouth of the ouce-populous Wady Dukliaa (of
"(SmoljfeT), faced by o large sphiy of tree-grown sand; on the
opposttfi*'Atricau shore the name always denotes places where
firr<iace8 have been at work. Follow tbo coast-ishinda of
]y^ars& Zubayduh (not Zehaider), connected by fords with the
jftlijjr-e. Here the sea is bordered by the red-yellow coast range,
,», Whose fretted sky dine of peaks and cones, "horses" and
'•^liogs'-backs/' are cut by deep wadys, and drained by dark
,*,"'* gates." The background is a long regular curtain vf black
'• hills, whose white sheets and veins may be granites and quarts.
We then passed the little creek Mfnat el-Marrah, one of the
many openings grown with vegetation; here the ruins El*
Nabagah (Ij^'y ** of the Single Lote-tree "), are spoken of. At
4 P.M. we doubled the Ras Lebayyiz ( L\t not LehayJiad),
a long flat tongue projecting well from the coast-range and
defending its valley, wbich lies to the south. In the Far'tit
(" upper part "), some five hours' mareli from the mouth, lie
important remains of the '• Mutiikaddimin," tall furnaces and
scorije ; an *' irregular" militimt at El-Wijh confirmed this
report. Tlie Wady Lebayyiz nearly fronts the Nabakiyyah
Island, a more raised reef, with the sea breaking around it :
here lay two fishing KatiVahB, hunting mother-of-pearl. The
Shakk el-'Abd (" 8hivi/s Cleft ") is another small Miiiat (refuge-
harbour), a break in the shore between the lias Lebayyiz and
the Has Salbah (()t_Jj, not TelbaJi)^ And now the coast-range
retreats far to the east, while it5 continuity is completely broken
up into a multitude of dwarf cones^
The next important feature is the Wady Salbah, also lying
south of its headland : we shall have much to say concerning
its inland continuation, the Wady Nejd. On the dark bills of
Salbah, the gloomy range ahead of us, appear the granito
peaks and " pins " of Jebel Libu, gleaming white imd pale iu
the livid half-light of a cloudy sunset. After 12 hours' steam-
ing over 70-72 knots of reefy sea, we run carefully into the
Sharm Dumayghuh, which my 'rilgrimago' (I. xi.) called
Damghab, one error amongst many rectified in my last volumes.*
This lake-like, land-locked cove is by far the best of the nmny
good dock-harbours which break the Midian coast.
I resolved to pass a day iu surveying the port; the Hydro-
» ■ I ;..• Luii.l ..r Mi«li:i'i i,!! v i,:U(3),' chap. liv.
■
'« Itineraries of the ISeeond Exp&lition into Mulian, 103
i^'raphers give plans of Yahdrr and Jibbab, ignoring one iax
more innwrtant. Distant only 30 miles of easy and safe coast-
ing navigation, it is the harbour for the pilgrim-ships which
El-Wijh endangers. The work of the P^gyptinn officers shows
on the map an oval, about 1 knot in length, disjiosed north-
west to south-fast, witii four bulgis on the northern shore: the
breadth tuav be 1200 yards. It appears to be the embouchure
of the Wady Dumayghab, which falls into its head, and which,
in the days of forest-^, must have rolled a large stream. The
entrance is defendetl by a feature common on this coast, a
natural breakwater, denoted by a dot upon the chart; it
measures 340 yards by half that width, and it may be the
remains of the coralline bod in which the torrent carved out
the port. The northern inlet is a mere ford of green water ;
the Bouthem, 25 fathoms deep, has 160 fathoms of clear way
between the reef and shallows of either side. The bay shoals
to the south-east, and the best anchorage for ships lies to the
north-west, almost touching land : a reef or rock is reported to
be in the mi<ldle ground, and native craft usually make fast
to a lumpy natural mole of sandstone north of the entrance.
AVe landed to iusnect the countrvi whii.'h belongs, not to the
Juhaynah, but to the Baliyy, mixed with a few Kura'an-Hu-
waytit and Kaiaizah-Hutaym. Most ot the shells were broken,
not including, liow ever, tSic oysters ; and the usual eight-ribbed
turtle appeared tn be comuHja. i\r. Laaize ]»icked up, on the
northern sartds, a large old bleached skull, which went into my
collection. We failed to find any neighbouring burial-place:
striking, however, inland, towards tiie " Fort (Ruin) " of the
Chart, we came upon an old cemetery to the north of ttie bay,
and conchi'Jed that the graves had originateil the mistake.
The Jibal el-8albah, and its wadys to the cast, showed the
familiar low-level conglomerntes, and quartz-spumed high ranges
of dark traps. The month of the iiorthern gorge is blocked uy
a vein of (inely-cry&ttdlised carbonate of lime, with an astrin-
gent taste, possibly resulting from the presence of alumina.
Signs of Arabs appeared everywhere, but we were unable to
ascertain the extent or even the existence of water, an im-
portant consideration if this is to become the port of El-Wijh.
The Ilajj-road, running some miles inland, isduubtless supplied
with the necessary, and these Bcdawiu could hardly live without
it. Shaykh Furayj pointed out to us, far in the north, the
blue peaks of the 'Amiid Zafar, in whose bi^anch-wady stand the
ruins of M'jirmah. The day ended with a sudden trembling of
the ship, as if straining at anchor ; the apparent direction of
this earthipwke, or rather waterquake, was from north to south,
time 9.10 p.m., and duration 20". According to the Arabs, the
ruotiou is not uncommon in jridiaii, especially about the vernal
equinox: on the present occasion it ended the spell of damp and
siiltr}' weather, which began on March Ki, and which may have
been connected with it.
March 23rd. — The soundings were not fiuislied before 7.40
A.M., when the old corvette resumed her rolling, rollicking way
gonthwivrd ; ns usual, she was without ballast. After steaming
1 hour ( = 7 tniles) we sighted the green mouth of the Wady
'Antixr, in whose Istabl, or upper valley-course, the pilgrims
camp. It drains a small inland range to the nort!i-east; this
feature bore 80^ (mag.) when we were 2 miles south of Dumay-
gliah, and it was then hidden by the taller block to seaward.
The Ad. Chart, besides confounding the two, lias applied
" Istabl " to the height instead of the hollow. Jebel Libn,
vulgb " Libin," suggests grey granite and white quartz ; hence,
j)rnljnbly, the name, identical with Lebanon and Libanus, the
" Ulilk-mountuin." The Bedawin have, doubtless, their own
terms for every feature: the citizens divide it into two, El-Ali
(the "upper ") being its southern, and El-Asfal (the "lower")
its northern section. It is a little brother of the Shdrr, measur-
ing 3733 instead of 6000-6500 feet. We first see from the
north a solid block, capped with a raural crown of three peaks.
When abreast of ua, the range becomes a tall and fisstired wall,
perpendicular to the west : it reposes ujjon a base which slopes
at the angle of rest; and it fails into the sniidy environing
wady. To complete the resemblanrc, even the queer "pins"
are not wonting. It is said to abound in water ; and a Nakhil
("date-grove") is described as growing near the summit. The
tribe which owns the most of it, the despised Ilutaym, claims
the negro hero, roet and lover, 'Autar, as one of their ancestors
— hence, probablv, his connection witli the adjoining mountain
and "the Stal)le.'''
I will hero briefly consider the Rtatus and the relations which
this block bears to the western Ghiits of Northern Arabia. The
" Jebol Libu" is the great feature of the Tibamat Balawiyvahi
for many days it will appear to follow us, and thi.s is the proper
place for assigning its site and status to it. We have prospected
about El-'Akabah, the northern head of the Cihats or coast-
ranges, the wangle chain of Jebel Sliara, the " fSa'ar of the tribes
of the Shasu" (IJedawi)* in the papyri ; and the Hebrew Mount
Soir, the *' rough " or " rugged." Farther south we have noted
how this tall eastern bulwark of the great Wady el-'Arabah,
bifurcates, forming the Sliafah chain to the east ; and westward
of it, in Madyan Proper, the Jibal el-Tihamah, of which the
• See Doy vol. L chap. vii.
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 105
yiiatr is perhajM! tli<? culmination. We hare noted the accidents
of (he latter as far as Duraay';ha!i Cove ; and now we descry in
the offing the misty and distanci'-dttarfetii forms of the Jebel el-
Ward, the Jibal el-Safhah Ki^yii^), the two blocks south of
the Wady Ham z, known as theJibilayn el-Riil, and their neio:h-
bours, still in the Tiliiimat Bahiwiyyah. Lastly we sliall sight
behind El-Hanra the AbuGhurayr,* and a number of detached
blocks which, like the former, are laid down, but not named, in
the Admiralty Charts.
Beyond El-Haura the chain still stretches southwards its
mighty links with smaller connections. The first is the bold
range Jebel Hailwah, the '' Yambo Hills " of the British sailor,
rising some 6000 feet high, and lying 35 miles behind the new
port.t Passing it to left on the El-Medinab route, I heard the
fables which imposed upon Abyssinian Biuce ; *' all sorts of
Arabian fruits grow in perfection on the summits of these hills;
it is the paradise of tlie people of Yenbo, those of any substance
having country bouses there;" and so forth. This was hardly
Erobable in Bruce 's day, and is now impossible: the mountain is
eld by the Beni Harb, a most turbulent tribe, for which see my
• Pilgrimu"©,' vol. i, pp. ^G4-5. Their head-shavkh Sa'd the
Robber, who still flourished in 1853, is dead, and 1ms been suc-
ceeded by one of his sous, Shaykli Hudayfah, who is even worse
than the sire. Between these ill-famed haunts of the Beni
Harb and Jiddah rises the Jebel ^ubh, which llaper (p. 527)
calls Jebi'l 8oubah, It is *' a mountain remarkable fur its
imignitude and elevation " (4500 feet), inhabited by the Beni
fSubh, a tightiug clan of the " Sons of Battle."
The largest links of these west Arabian Ghilts are composed
of white-grey granite, veined and striped with quartz; and they
are subtended inland by the porphyritic traps of the Jib^l
el-Shafah, which we shall now trace in the parallel of El-Hamz,
the end of Egypt. 1 cannot, however, agree with Wcllsted
(ii. 242, 3) that the ridges increase in height, as they recede
from the sea; or that tJie veins of quartz run horizontally
through the '* dark granite." The greater altitudes (3000-6000
feet), visible from an offing at 40-70 miles, are connected by
minor heights : some of them, however, are considerable, and
hero and there they break into detached pyramids. All are
maritime, now walling the shores, like the Tayyib Ism and
* Perfaapa from Gliuroynl, the nnme of nn Rromatic plant,
t The md being the clasaical 'lo^^fa «w^tt {Jmnhia rieiti), now YamW el-
Nnkhil ("Spring of the Palm-tK'u"), in Ptoleroy's tirae a sf u-i>ort, nt presfenl
15 nnlcin to tlie rKU-lli-caHt (n. Int. 24- 12' 3?) of llic ni'ulfm town in s. iut.
24° Ti' 30*' (WeJlsted, u. 220). Acconling to the AtiiLtt it lica G Loan* murcU from
(liu acsL
i
lOB Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
Mazliafeli, then shearing away from it, as about the Eal, where
a broad " false coast " lias been built by Time,
These western Ghats, then, run down either in single or
in double lines the whole length of occidental Arabia, and
meeting a similar and equally important eastern line they
form a mighty nucleus, the mountains of El-Yeraen. After
carefully insjiectiug, atid making (^lose inquiries concerning, a
section of some 506 miles, I cannot but tliink that the mines of
1)reciou8 ore, mentioned by tlie medieval Arabian geographers,*
ay in offsets from the flanks either of the monntniiis or the inland
chain ; that is, ttiey are either on the Tibamali, the coast low-
lands, or in El-Neju, the highland plateau of the interior.
What complicates the ground is the long line of volcanic
action which, forming the eastern troutier of the plutonic granites
and of the modern grits, may put forth veins extending even to
the shores of the G-ulf of 'Akabah and the Ked iSea.f The length,
known to me by inquiry, would be about three degrees between
N. lat. 28' and 2rf, the latter being the parallel of El-Mediiiah :
others make them extend to near Yunibn in N. lat. 24" 5'. They
may stretch i'ar to the nortli,and ('onnipct, aft has been suggested,
viiih the Syrian centres of eruption, discovered by the Palestine
Exploratiou. I have already explained % how and why we were
unable to visit the " Harrah," lying east of the Hisnia; but
we repeatetlly sighted its outlines and I determined that its lay
is from north-west to south-east. Farther south, as will 1)6
Been at El-Ilauni, the vertehrfn curve seawards or to the south-
west, and socra to mingle with the main range, the mountains
of the TihamatrJahaniyyah, of the Juhayui. Thus the for-
mation assumes an importance which Inis never yet been attri-
buted to it, and the tive several " Harrahs," reported to me by
the Bedawin, must be studied in connection with tlie minera-
logical deposits of the chains adjoining them. It must not be
forgotten tliat a fragment of porous basidt picked up by the first
Expedition near ]\lakna yielded n small button of go!d.§
Dreadfully r^dled the Sinnar before the long heavy swell
from the nortb-west. It was a bad time off the l>abbat (" high
land ") |l ol-Marga'h (" of Ilefuge," not lias Mar<jah) ; a little
relief, Jiowever, was felt when running down the channel
between the mainland and the reef Kata' cl-Iias (, ^\ S\ *.U ■) '
LJ*'^ W
• See my vol. i. cbap. ix.
t ' The Land of Miaimi (Rcvkited),' obap. vi., deaoribcs one of theac Bponulic (?)
outcrops ncflr Tnvyib I»m ; and chRp. Ix. notices the upparently volcanic sulpbur-
monat near El-Muwaylah.
J Vol. ii. clmp. X. § See my vol. i. diap. xii.
11 Dttbbat properly means n sand-hill or heap.
u
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Mulian. 107
the chart does not name it, but notes " j^ood anchorage on the
east side of these shoals." The long, 4(jw island of Ilaykliah
(j'^^:\j , "the loose or straddling"), to the w.s.w. of El-Wijh,
may protect the port in that direction, and fonn, as Wellsted
says (ii. 185), an " excellent mark for entering," but it did us no
good. The nuisance returned in force as, doubling the Kaa
Muraybit ^\^^ > ^, not Marahnt\ we sighted El-Wijh. The
gape of its wady is backed by the Haniirat, or " Red Range,"
and fronted by its two towers, the round Eurj and the cubical
lighthouse. And we were quiet once more when the Sinndr,
at 1*2.15 P.M., having covered lier 30 miles in 4 hours 30
minutes, cast anchor in the usual place, south-east of the
northern jaw. The log showed a tot^»l of 102 miles between
the Sharnis Yiih/irr and El-Wijh, or 107 from tlie latter to
El-Muwayhih.
El-Wijh,* meaning the "Face," an abbreviative form of El-
Wijh el-Bahr (the "Face of the Sea "), lies in N. lat. 2fi^- 14'.
It is eviilently an old site, although the ruins have been buried
under generations of modem huihliugs; Sprenger (p. 21) holds
it to be the seaport of " Egra, a village in the territory of
Obodas," a corruption of the Arabic El-Hajar, the town or
townlet. Hence, according to Strabo (xvi. cap. iv. § 24) ^'Elius
Gallus embarked his baffled troops for Myus ilonnue.f Pliny
(vi. 32) also mentions the " Tamudwi, with their towns of
Domata and llegra, and the town of Badanatha." It is generally
remarked that "Egra" does not appear in Ptolemy's lists, yet
one of the best texts (Carolus F. A. Nobbe, Lipsiio, 1843) reads
"Erypa, instead of the Nogran (Nejran), which Bilibnldns
Pirckheymenis (Lugdimi, mdxxxv) and others jtlaced in
N. lat, 26° 0'. Sprenger formerly believed El-'Amiid to be
Strabo's " Egra," the haven for the northern ; as El-FIanra was
for the southern, and El-Wijii fur the central regions.
I have no intention again ix) describe El-Wijh, J except as a
?[narantine station coTuiocted with the Pilgrimage-Caravan.
t has been admirably ailapted to such purposes, after laying
out much money in a lighthouse, a masonry landing-pier,
doctors' quarters, guard-houses, bake-houses, and an establish-
ment for condensing water. It has been abolished, very
unwisely, raethiuks, in favour of "Tor Harbour." Tlie latter,
inhabited by a ring of thievish Syro-Greek traders, backed by
• In clfueical Ambic Waih is a face, and Wfjii a side.
t See my vol. i. chap. viii.
J S4S0 ' The Loud of Midian (BoTiaited),' chap. xiv.
108 Bdrton'8 Tttncraries of the Second Erpcdition into Midian,
a wretched samly wild, comfortless onougli to make the
healthiest lose health, 'is — worst of all — bo near Suez that
infection can travel easily. A wealthy pilgrim has only to
pay a few gold pieces ; hig escape to the mountains is winked
sit, and thence he travels or voyages comfortably to Suez and
Cairo. Even without each irregularities, the transmission of
contaminated clothing or other articles would suffice to spread
<!]iukT!i, typhus and small-pox. Tor is, in fact, an excellent
medium for focussing, anti for propagating contagious disease;
and its vicinity to Kgypt, and consequently to Europe, demands
that it should at once be aliolished.
The objections to El-Wijh are two, both equally invalid.
The port is dangerous during westerly winds; aiul pilgrim-ships
Lank their fires ever ready to put to sea. True ; but, as has
biicn shown, Sliarni Pumayghab, the best of its kind, lies only
30 knots to the north. The second, the want of water, or of
good water, is even less cogent. The sL'ahfnird widls supply
the poorer classes and animals ; and we shall presently see the
Fort wells, which in their day have watered from 20,000 to
30,000 thirsty men and beasts. So far from the condensers
being a faiiuro, the tank still holds 20 tuns of distilled water,
allhuugh it gives drink to some thirty mouths composing
the establisliment- Finally the tanks of the old paddle-wheel
steamer, moored off the town, have done goo<l ^vork, and are
ready to do it again.
Thus the expense of laying out tho quarantine ground at
Fl-\Vijh hits been pitifully wasted. That, however, is a very
small matter; tho neglect of choosing a projtor position is
serious, even dangerous. Unlike Tor, nothing can Le healthier
or freer from fever than the Pilgrims' Plateau. From El-Wijh.
too, escape is hojM?!ef;s ; if a pilgrim left the caravan a Bedawi
bullet would soon persuade liim to stop. Here, then, should
be the first long halt for the " comnronnsed " travelling north-
wards. When contagious disease bas completely disajvpcared,
the second precautionary stoppage might be either at Tor or,
better still, at the 'Uyiiu Mu^a (Moses' Wells) near Suez ; where
sanitary conditions are far more favourable, and where supplies,
including medical comforts, would be cheaper as well as more
abundant. Briefly, it is my conviction tnat, under present
circumstances, " Tor " is a standing danger, not only to Egypt,
but to universal Europe, and that its only remedy would l>o
El-Wijh.
II. T(f the ^So^(thern Sttlphtir Jlill and Crum to EI-Haitrd. — At
El-Wijb I again divided the party. MM. Marie and Phib'pin,
with Lieut. Yusuf as surveyor, were directed to march south-
wards to inspect a sulphur-bill, and to report upon the "Wady
Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
Ilamz and a ruiu near its bauks. Meanwhile the rest of us
would proceed in the Sinmr to El-Haura, a roundabout cruise
of 100 miles or so southwards.
There is no need to describe "M. ^larie's march, which covered
ground afterwards travelled over by the united Expedition.
He was successful in disooverinj; the sulphur-hill, tho third now
kuown upon the Mi<lian c<jast. Alter ridiug 5 hours 40 minutes
(=17 miles), the jmrty reached the base of the Tuwayyil
el-Kibiit, the *' Jjittle loivg (Ridf^e) of Brimstone." It appears
from alar a reddish pymmid, rising about 2 miles inland of a
fine inlet, which is anid to be sate navigation. Thus far it
resembles the Jibbah fiud ; on the other hand, it is not plutonic
but chalky, like those of jMaktiii and "Sinai," the crystals being
similarly diflused throup;hunt the matrix.
The travellers slept at the base of the " Tuwayyil." Next
morning M. I'hilipin proceeded to collect specimens of the
sulphur and chalcedony-agate strewed over the filuin. HI. Marie
ana Lieut. Yusuf rode on to the banks of the Wady Hamz, and
in S hours ( = 0 miles) they eamo upon the ruins of a Gasr
(" CAStle ") that uiiexpoetedly turned up trumps. I had care-
lessly written for them the name of a niiu which all believed
wouUl prove to lie one of the normal barbarivus, " Hawawit."
They brouji'ht Imck specimens of civilised architecture; and
these at once determined one of the objectives of our next
journey. On Marcli 2iSth the party returned to El-Wijh in the
nishest of spirits, after a successful trip of more tlmii 5U miles.
Meanwhile I steamed southwards, aci-ompanied by the rest
of the party, itirluding the Sayyid. Furayj and Jtuhiinimed
Shahaduh, ex-wakil ('' agent ") of the Fort el-Wijh, a prosperous
merchant much trusted by the Bedawin. He brought with
him, by way of (Ihafi'r, or '• guide," one R/ijih ibn 'Avid of the
Fawd 'idah-Juhaynah; and tlie feliuw was not a good specimen
of his ill-favoureil anrl ill-famed tribe.
March 2Uh, — We sot out at 4.30 p.m.; find steamed due west
till we hatl rounded the northern end of Hay k hah Island. Wo
then went to the south-west and passed to port the white rocks
of Mardiinah island,* capping the ugly reefs and shoals that
forbid ships to hug this section of the snore. The patch fronts
the headland llus ol-Ma'allah, where, as at El-'Akabah and
Makna, 8weet water springs from the salt sea-sands — a freak
of drainage so common on the dismal Somali coast. We then
ran along the Sharm Hahhdn (not '*Abban"), and the Ras
Munaybarah (^ -1-^) ; and before nightfall we had sighted
Mftzdtiu ia the dictionaries u a kiud of waap.
110 BunTOK'jT la^^K^ofthe Second Expedition into Midian,
18 Kurknmah \c..^^\ which Keith Johnston ^vrites "Ras
Ghiirlcuma." This yellow point, so called from its " curcuma "
(turmeric, saffTOn, diosoorides), here faces the islet-tomb of
Shaykh Alarbat (^-j ^), not " Shaykh Hasan e\-Mardb%t
(' Pilgrimage,' I. xi.), nor Morcihii (Wellsted, ii. 183). Upon
this part of the shore, I was afterwards told, are extensive
ruins, not visited by Europeans on account of the dangerous
Jiihaynah. The south-eastern background is formed by tall
and misty highland blocks, the Ghats of the Tihamiit-Jahaniy-
yah. Morthernmost, and prolouging the Libn, runs the regular
wall of the Jebel el- Ward ; then rise the peaks and pinnacles of
the Jibal el-Safhali ; and, lastly, the twin massifs, El-Kal. Faint
Wesemblances of these features sprawl, like huge caterpillars,
over the Adniiralty Chart, but all sprawl nnuamed.
March 25ih. — The consequence of yawing aud of running
naif-speed by night was that we reaehed Jebel Ilassani just
before noou, instead of at 8 a.m. The island is a long yellow-
white ridge, a lump of coraliine 400 feet high, bare and water-
less; yet at certain seasons it feeds the liedawi flocks.
Buttressed and bluff to the south-west, whcuce the strongest
rjwinds blow, it is prolonged by a Hat spit to tlie south-east, and
by a long tail of two vertebne trending north-west. Thus it
gives safe shelter to Arab barques, as notieed in my ' Pilgrimage '
(I. xi.), whore, however, it is erroneuusly called " Jebel Hasan."
Its parallel is a few miles north of the •' D.-edalus Light "
(n. lat. 24' 55' 30") to the west; and it lies n little south of
'El-Haunt on the coast (n. lat. 25' H'), mid of El-Medinali,
distant about 130 direct miles in the interior. If Ptolemy's
latitudes ai-e to be consulted, J. Hassani will be the "Island
of Timagines " in n. lat. 25" 40' ; while the Chersoneeus Point
(also in N. lat. 25^' 40'), " Jambia," being in N. lat. 24' 12', would
Loe represented by the important and well-marked projection
of "Abu Madd" ("Father of the Flux" or high title), which
intercepts the view to tho south.
Kouudiug the southern spit we turned to north-east and by
east, and passed, with a minimum of 7 fathoms under keel,
between J. Hassani and the flat Utnm Sahr ( ^jr^LM*) ; this
" Libnah " of Wellsted (ii. 195) i.s a sandbank hardly visible
from the shore, and deserves its name, " Mother of Deception."
Here lies the only good approach to the suline and spacious
bay, on which was built the southernmost Nabatheean port-
town; all the others either renuire skilful pilots, or they are
t sealed by reefs and shoals. ^V ith the blue aud regular-lined
•
Bcbton's Itineraries of the Secoiul Expedition into Midian. Ill
curtain, Abii '1-Gburayr ( ^ ^), in front, stretching down
coast to Ras Abii Madd, we bent gradually round to the
north-east and east. We then loft to starboard tko Buttlement
El-Amlij („*A^U/ & scatter of the usual dull, durk-brown
huts. We ran for aafety \^ mile north of the exposed Raa
el-Hauva; and at 1.30 p.m (=21 houra) the /Smnar anchored,
in 9 fathoms, under the protecting Bhallows Kata 'at El-Wazamah
El-Haura is not found either in the charts or in Ptolemy's
and Spreuger's maps. It lies in n. lat. 25" 6', about the same
parallel as EI-Medinah ; and in e. long. (Gr.) 37' 13' 3U".
For these observations, which were taken by Nasir Effendi
Ahmed, First Lieutenant of the Sinmh; I am not auswerable,
although the latitude cannot be far out. Thus the latitudinal
distance between El-Haura and Ei-Wijli (n. lat 26' 14') would
be 68 geographical miles. Wellsted (ii. 195) heard of, but
never saw its ruins. He greatly errs when he makes this
station, or its neighbourhood, the frontier of tbe "Bili" and
the " Joheinah": tbis line, jxs has been seen, lies nearly 50 geo-
graphical miles farther north. He also translates the word
(ii. 461) *' the bright-eyed girl," instead of the White (Village),
AUrus Vicui. He ignores, again, its other name Dar el-ishrin
('"No. XX. Station"), so called because tbe Cairo caravan
ionnerly reached it in a score of days, now reduced to nineteen.
According to fcspreuger. the White Village, or Castle, was a
Nabathjean, not a Tharaudite port. Here ^lius Gallus dis-
embarked his troops from Egypt. Strabo (xvi. cap. 4, § 24)
shows that Acvkt) KWfir} was the starting-place of the caravans
which, before the Nile-route to Alexandria was o]>ened, carried
the merchandise of India and of south Arabia to Petra. Thence
the imports were passed on to Pbceuicia and Egypt, and these
pages nave shown why the journey would be preferred to tbe
voyage northwards. He is contirraed by the Periplua (cap. six.),
"from the Port and the Castellum of Leuke Eome, a road
leads to Petra, the capital of the Malicha (El-Malik), King of
the Nabathjeans ; it also serves as an emporium to those \vho
bring wares in smaller ships from Arabia. For the latter
reason, a Perceptor, or Toll-taker, who levies 25 per 100 ad
'?;a/ore»i, and a Hekatontarchus (centuriim) are there stationed."
As the Nabata^ were vassals of Home, and the whole region
had been ceded to the Komans (Byzantines) by a chief of the
112 Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedilion into Midiart.
Beni Kuda' tribe, this Yuzboshi, ov military commandant, was
probably a Roman.
El-Eaura, like most of the old coast-settlements, shows two
"quarters," a liarbour-towii, and what may bo called a country
town. The latter is built upon a long tongue of land backinj;^
the slope of the sea-cliflT, and attached to the low whitish
hillocks rising down south ; it is now a luxuriant orchard of
emerald pulms forminp; three large patches. Behind it swells
a dorsum of golden-yellow sand, an<l the horizon is closed by
ranges of bills and highlands, red and white, blue and black.
The region is far more riant und ameue than that higher up
coast; and the whole shore-litie seems to be broken with
verdant valleys. The Wndy el-'Ayn with its many branches
beautifies the north ; aad, in the southern part, the Wady el-
Daghaybij {^j,,^^ij )* supplies water between its two paps.
Before the evening we landed at a shallow bay bearing:
30° (mag.) from the corvette's anchorage. A few yards walk
iuland led to the imimportiknt Wady el-Saranah ( jL'.^.J.t drain-
ing low hills of the same name. The loose sand is everywhere
strewed with bits of light porous basalt, which comes from
the Harrat el-Buhayr ( -s4j)» a bluff quoin to the north-west.
About El-Faurd, I have said, the volcanic formations, some
60 miles inland on the parallel of El-Muwaylah, approach the
coast.
We were g^iiiled to the ruins by the shouts of sundrj- Arabs
defending their harvest against a dangerous eaetny, the birds :
— rattles and scarecrows were anything but scarce. Apparently
the sand contains some fertilising matter. A field of dry and
stunted Dukhn (Holms Dochna), or small millet, nearly covers
the site of the old CastiUum, whose outline, nearly buried
under the drift of a^es, we could slill trace. There are two
elevations, eastern and western ; and a third lies to the north,
on the right side of the W^ady Samnah. Scatters of the usual
fragments !ay around, and the rooks of white coralline explained
the old name — "Whitby." The Bedawin preserve the tradition
that this was the most important part of the settlement, which
extended nearly 4 miles southwaros. The dwarf valley-mouth
is still a roadstead, where two small craft were anchored ; and
here, doubtless, was the hive-coraer allotted to the community's
working-bees.
• Diiglibujut uiLuiiii tiriving to tvater every day.
t Suiunah, the gmina of u sluub like pepper, made into a &tteiung medicine
Tor women.
Bu nTON'jf Itineraries of ttie Secoiul Expedition into Midian. 113
March 2Qtk. — We set out shortly after dawn, with a strong
parly of marines, to visit tho south end of Leuko Korne. A
mile's row to 127' (mag-) lainled us at a mudera ruio, the work
of a Yambn' merchant wlio hail liere failed to establish a store.
Thence a few minutes' walking over loose sand, led to the Hay-
road ; it is pavDil, like the shore, with, natural slabs and ledges
of soft raodem sandstone, which, being foot-worn, makes good
"metal." The broad highway, seattered with quartz and basalt,
greenstone and serjientine, crossed a branc}i of tlic Wady el-'Ayu,
whose rich anrl saltish sand grow "Duklm" and the Nilotic
Haifa-grass {Ci/nosurini diirus), tamarisk-thieket and tufts of
fan-palm. On its left bank a lamp-blaek vein of naked basalt,
capped by jagged blocks, ran down to the sea and formed a
conspicuous buttress. The guides spoke of a similar volcanic
outcrop above Point Abvi Madd, and of a third close tu Yanibii'
harbour.
A slow hour showed u.s the Hret ruins; wall-bases built with
fine cement crowning the siunmit of a dwarf mound to the left
of the road. We then entered the palm-orchards fenced with
thorn, tamped earth and dry stone : young trees had been
planted; and Dukhn-fields gave an agricultural touch to the
scene. The high-road path to the Wady Uatira {\ ^ -^), where
the caravan camps; it still shows all the requisites of an
"eligible position.' a quarter iuhabttod by rich citizens.
At the third or southern palm-patch we found remnants of
the only pnblte works still visible. This Karfz, or underground
aqueduct, conducted towards tlie sea the drainage of the
Jebel Turham ( ^ J), a round knob shown on the Ad. Chart ;
which bears 121^ (niag.) from the conduit-Lead. The line
has long ago been broken down by the Arabs; tlie 'Avn
(" fountain ") may be seen issuing from a dark cavern of white
coralline ; it then hides itself beneath several pittiugs that
represent the old Najwah (air-holes) ; and, after Auwing under
sundry natural arches, the remains of the conduit-ceiling, it
emerges in a deep fissure of siiline stone. Fruin this part of its
banks we picked np fair specimens of saltpetre. The lower
course, abounding in water-beetles and chokeu with weeds, ends
in a shallow pool grateful to birds.
The tuibulent Jnhaynali were mostly in the upper country ;
a few wretched fellows, however, assembled and began to
squabble ulxiut the right of leading strangers into our country
(hildd-nd). They and the guides gave us discouraging details
concerning a ruin represented to lie aome hours ofl", in the
VOL. XLIX. I
114 Bukton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian,
nearest of the southern Ilarrahs. According to them the Kasr
el-Bint (" Maiden's Palace ") was in the same condition as El-
Haum; showing only a single pillar, j>erhaps the " Columns "
to which Wellsted alludes. The young person whose Tague
name it bears was a sister of the well-known Warakat iba
Naufal
(JV
tv*^
the former settled
upon
the
mainland, while the brother built a corresponding castle upon
Jebel Hassani. Neither hero nor elsewhere could I leorfi any-
thing concerning the human skeleton which Ibn Mujawar, some
000 years ago, found imbedded in a rock near the sea-shore.
A few words concerning the "Harrahs" of this part of
Arabia. The author of the Kitab Futuh el-Uuklan ('The Con-
quests of El-Isliim ') states that the land>i known to Arabia as
Ef-IIarrah are eight; of these he and Ibn Klmldun (El-'Ibar)
mention two — 1. Harrat Beni Sulaym. from a tribe now van-
ished; nnd, 2, the Harrat el-Niir, lying between Tayma and the
Wady fd-Kuni (the Wady Hamz 7). The learned Dr. Wetzstein,
in the Appendix to his * Reisebericht,' tSrc./ records a conversa-
tion with A. von Humboldt and Carl liitter (April 1859), respect-
ing the specimens wliich he had brongiit from the classical
Trachoniti?. Their fresh texture and appearance led tlio latter
to question whether the latest eruptions of the Harrat Eiijil, as
it is called from a neighbouring wady, may not have taken
place during the historic period, and ho referred to I'salm xviii.
as seeming to note the occurrence, during David's reign, of such
a phenomenon in or near Palestine. Humboldt deemed it pro-
baole that the Koranic legend (cap. cv.) of the Abyssinians
under Abraham being destroyed by a shower of stones baked in
h(dl-firc, referred, not to small-pox.t as is generally supposed,
but Ui an actual volcanic eruption in Arabia.
" With what interest would that great man liave learned,"
writes Wetzstein, ** that as I was turning t»ver the leaves of
Yakut's ' Geographical Lexicon,' I foTmd no less than 28 differ-
ent volcanic regions between Haui an and 1 >al> el- ■\Iandeb known
to tho Arabians!" J^ater still Dr. Otto Ijoth published an
elaborate paper " On the Volcanic. Regions (Ilarras) of Arabia,
according to Yakut," in wliich these eruptions are nearly all
identified and described.
* This ifl the volnnse wbich I havo tntnsLat^d. See also Dr. Bt^ke's rApera in
the • Atheiiwiim ' (Felt. 8th ntiJ l5Ui, 1873), his 'Mount Biiiiii a Volcano,'
{pafllm); and hia ' Siiini in Arabia,' p. 5il5.
t ThcTo are, as fbr ita w(> know, two great centres wbencc this foul disraec
ffprcB<l. Tho castcni ia Mongoliiui-China, which retains trailitioiis of it iu
n.o. 11*22 ; tho western, i a tt-r Ironical Africa: from tlie latter it ia supposed to
have invaded Europe in tlie sixth century.
Bchton'* Itineraries of tite Second Expedition into Midian. 1 1")
" Among the immerous volcanoes thii8 found to exist within
the Arabian r«?iiinsuhi," remarks Dr. Bcke, " the only one
ref'ordecl as havinp: been in activity within tho historic period is
the Harrat el-Nar* (Fire llarrah). situate to the north-east of
3[«Hlina, in the neij^hbonrhood of Ivliaibur (Khaybar), in about
*2Q° 30' N, lat. and 40" k. long. ; which, beinj:^ traditionally said
to have befn in an active state six centuries before Mohammed,
had actually an eruption in the time of the Prophet's successor,
Omai". To the north-west of this * i'ire-IIarra' lies that known
as the ' Harra of (the tribe ot) Udhra ' (El-Azra) ; again to the
north of this is * Harra of Tahiik,' so calied from the station of
that name on the Uadj road from Damaseus to ilekka, the
position of which is in about 28" 15' n. lat. and 37" e. lonji;., and
beyond this last, farther to tlio north, and consequently between
it and the norlhernmust Hurra of the Ivadjil, or Traehoiiitis, is
the Harra Karljla.f ... Its desiguatioD, which means • rougb,'
' pathless/ seems to indicate its peculiarly rugged suri'ace, and
to lead to the inference tbat it is an immense field of lava."
Hence my lato friend coticluded that his " true Mount Sinai "
was the focus and origin of this volcanic region ; and that the
latter was the '"great and terrible wilderness " (Deut, i. 19)
through which tlie children of Israel were led on their way to
mysterious ** Kadesh-barnea." Thus, too, he explained the
"pillar of cloud bv dav " and the " pillar of fire by night ''
(Exod. xiii. 20).
Il<vtnrniug along the shore, we embarked and bade aditu to
Leukt! Kome. 1'he old corvette made the usual semicircle, l>ut
the sea had subsided to a dead calm, and we reached El-AV'ijh
in 18 hours 1;"} minutes.
HI. The March to the Gold Mines. — The preliminaries of our
journey were soon settled at El-\Vijh ; and the Baliyy tribe
made no dilliotdtios. We were to be escorted by old ISiiaykh
3lohamraed 'Afuan, his son Sulaymau, his two nephews,
Hammad and Naji, his factotum, the mulatto Abdullah, and his
wakil ('• agent ") the big bhick slave, Abdullah Muhaninied.
The immediate objective of this, our last march, was the Bada
plain and the Mochoura of the ancients, the mediieval Marwah
or m Marwah. I also determined to visit a traditional coal-
mine ; and, linally, to return to Kl-Wijh vui the Wady Hamz,
inspecting both it and the ruins first sighted by MM. Marie and
Phi I i pin.
March 29. — At 1.45 p.m. we left El-Wijh, with 58 camels, of
%vhich 7 were intended to carry water — as will be seen, they
• Sc« Wallin, p. 327.
t Rajlii in Arabic rocRns rcmgh and stouy jsn^and = TraohomUa. Rrijil ia a
well-girt wiilktr.
I 2
116 Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
were necessary. The afternoou was liot ami unpleasant ; iu
later March the Harwa el-'U\vwali,* a violent sand-raising
norther, sets in and lasts a fortnight. It is succeedotl (early
April) by the calms El-Ni'aml" the Blessings "), which, divided
into tSie Greater and the Less, last 40 days. Then the summer.
From the raised and metalled bank where the Burj stands, we
rodo down to the broad mouth of the Wudy el-Wijh, draining
the low, blue-brown hills that form the eastern horizon. Ou
our left opened the dull eniboucliure of ^^'ady Mansa (U©^^) :
and to tlje right lay el-Mellahah, the Salina, distant about a
mile from the (own. It is an oval of some 180U yards from
north to south ; uud tlie banks are padded with brown slush
frosted white, which in some places "boffs" men and aasea.
Beyond it are sparkling, glittering, dazzling blocks of pure
crystallised salt, and the open water in the middle is tenanted
by wild-fowl. At the lower or northern end, a short divide
separates it from the sea, whieh during westerly gales runs
far inland : it would he easy to open a regular channel between
the harbour and its saltern. The head is formed by the large
Wady Hurrah, whoso many feeders at times discharge heavy
torreutj!i. The walls of the valley-mouth are marked, somewhat
like the Wady llarr, with caverned and corniced dill's of snow-
white, canary-yellow, and rose-pink corallines.
Ascending the Wady el- Wijh, we left to the right the two brack-
ish pits or vrells, Bir el-Isma'it and El-Sannusi (. . » ^-).
which supply the poor of the port. After 1 hour 15 minutes,
we pissed tlirougli a " gate " formed by the " Hamirat-Wijb,"
the Red Hill, noticed when we approached the town. Here
the gypsum, white ami black, ruddy and mauve, overlies rounded
masses of gmnite ; and the Secondary formation is succeeded by
the usual red felsites and green traps — a coj)y of the Wady .Sadr
in the northern Shafali range. A fine vein of sugary quartz
also trended north-south. After 1 hour 45 minutes ( = G miles),
■we suddenly sighted the inland furt, whose littered environs
show the camping-grcmnd of the Pilgrim-Oaravan. Here we
were welcomed by its commander, Lieut. Nassiir Ahmed, whose
garrison, lo regulars, looks clean and healthy, and who keep»
his castle iu excellent order. It is the usual square, straight-
curtained work of solid masonry with a circular bastion at each
angle. The northeni face is subtended by 3 large cisterns,
all streugthetied at the inner angles by the stepped buttresses.
* 'A w wii in Arabic is tlio name of the thir teenth mannion of Uie mooD, or I
live elais in Virgo.
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Kj-j>editioii into Midian. 117
first noticed among the ruins of Jlnpflmir SIm'ayb. TUe only
object af interest in the fort is the inscription uith au illegible
• liite, bearing the nunie ot" Ahme*l ibn Tuyliin, who tbunflod his
dynflsty in a.d. 868. This is another proof tlmt the Mamhik
8oIilans were lords of the soil, and that Sontli IMidian wan, even
in tlie ninth etntury, a dejientlency of J'^pjypt.
Up the valley, mid iiorth-east of the Fort, lie Iho palm-]>lan-
tations, the kitchen-gardens, and the ikr-famed wells of El-Wijh.
The sandy bed, disposed east-west, is streaked, dotted, and
barred with outcrops and walls of the hardest green stone ; and
those disposed nortfi-sonth mnst arrest, like dykes, the sub-
tprrnnean flow. Of the six niftsonry-revettcd pits four, including
El-Tuwilah, the deepest, supply bnu^kish wati-r, and the same is
the case with a fifth inside the Fort. Tlie sweet wells are
the Jiir el-Za'faraniyynh ('' of iSaftron "). and its eastern neigh-
bour EI-'Ajwah (the " Date-paste "). The latter measures 4-5
fi^thoms, and water appears under a boulder in situ, projecting
from the southern side. Higlier up the wady, a reef is labo-
riously scraped with Uedawi " W'usum '" and with Moslem
inscriptions oompuratively modern. Jlernabouts, and to the
north-east of the Fort, we picked u})Dld and well-treated scoria-,
suggesting a more ancient settlement. Perhaps it was the
hx'ale preferred by the owners of the slaves, who worked the
inner mines hidden from view and from the sea-breezo by the
hills.
Marrh ^Oth.— We set out at 't.-'JO in disorderly "starting" style;
itnd struck up the A\ady el-Wijh, which miw bewmcs narrow
and gorge-like, with wells and water-pils, oM and new, dotting
the sole. Half an hour's walk led to the fumous " written rock,"
which none of our guides seemed to know. \\' ellsted (li. 18!t)
erroneously calls the place ** Wadt-l-Moyah " f Sfayah), the name
of a feature farther south. Moreover, he has copied the scrawls
with a carelessness so prodigious, massing, in a single woodcut
(p. 189), what covers many square feet of stone, that we failed
at first to recognise his original. I deeply regret having re-
published this rubbish in 'The Gold Mines,' A'c, p. 213. We
(M, Lacaze and I) drew the inscriptions and the rnde pictures
Jis carefully as we could ; and the former, on April lU, wa.s sent
back to jihotograph them.
Presently leaving the Wady el-Wijh, which extends for some
2 hours eastward, we struck rs.e. up the left bank of the Wady
Zurayb (^^j ■ , of the " little Sheepfold"). This ugly rocky
torrent presently abuts upon an undulating plateau with 1o\t
rises, almost bare of trees, bone-dry and utterly waterless.
Raise it from 500 to DOUO feet, and it would be the model of a
118 Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Alidiuji,
Peruvian cerro. The raaterial, poq>byritie trap, everywhere
showed scatters ami lurpe veins of quartz, mostly rnnnrnfr
jiorth-south : large trtniehes. dug by the ancients ; and small
cairns, modern work, were also pointed out to us. Crossing tbo
heads of the Wadys el-'Araylcalt (^_^jij - )* and Fishayk
( ■; ..'■ »). Avo fell into the Wady Umm el-Kariiyat (** Mother of
the Villages"), also called Uram Kanlyat ("Mother of Villages").
Kar ("town") appears in the classics, at least if " Car-thago "
be conipoimded of it ; aiul Kuryat, or Kiryat (y)lur. Kura and
Kaniyat) is still used throughout Egypt and .Syria, or, rather,
wherever Arabic is spoken.
This wady begins, as is hero the rule, with a gravelly bed ;
it tlien breakti into ugly rocky drops and overralls; and, tiually,
the mouth becomes a miitured copy, on a larger settle, of its
head. Immense blocks of <]iiarlz garnish its liase at the left
bonk. Presently a great white heaj), some 200 feet high,
capped and strewn with snowy boulders, rose above us ; and in
the watercourse at our feet lay the dark oblongs denoting the
house-foundations of porphyritie walls. We had reached the
celebrated Unim ol-Kaiuvat, little expecting to finish the 4 miles'
march of tlie guid<>s in 'Z hours l.'j minutes ( = <i| niilfs).
The .Tebel el-Mani (cpiurtz-hili) showed, tor the first time
during the whole joiiniey, signs of systematic an«l eivilis<:-fl
work, shafts and air-iiolts, tunnels and galleries. The labour
suggested Pliny ('Nat. Mist.,' xxxiii. 20), "Tertia ratio oiiern
vicerit pigantuni. Cuiiiculi« (gjiUcriefi, tunnels) per magna
spatiaactis, c^ivanttir numtcs ad lucernarum liiniimi," &c. Instead
of being a regxdin* riMUid-headed ooncj like the Jebel el-Abyaz,
for instance, the samniit is distinctly eraterij'orm, the apex
having *' caved in," or rather, having been carded off bodily to
be worked. iVe^ro-quartz was abundant, but we came to the
conclusion tlnit the rock mostly tri;ated was, like that of
Shuwak, a very mauve-coloun d schist, with a deep-red fracture
and pleasing tender coloui's before they are oxygen-turoished.
It abounds in mica which, silvery as tisb-scales, overspreads it
in patches ; and the precious metal had probably been sought
in the veinlets between the schist and its quaitz-walling. Two
pieces sliowed specks, or rather j^iUetks, lightly nnd loosely
adhering to the " Uliini" — so liglitly, indeed, that they fell off
when careloi-sly pocketed.
Leaving the mining details for another plftce,t I will notice
* It would bo the dinimatire of TTrkab, ^bich means bcaidea the tendon
Achilles, r windiTig track tlirough a tqUov. or « narrow muuDluiii-pnBS. ,
t !?e<} 'Tlie LoTiil of Jlidiau {Kcusitcd),' uhiip. xvi.
BtTRTOK'i Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 119
the topographical details of the " Mother of the Villages." A
view from the sumniit of the decapitated, honeycombed tnoxind
gave us at once the measure of the past work, and a most
encouraging; prospect for the future. All around us lay a true
qnartz-regiou. The main kill projects a small southern spur,
also showing traces of the miner ; and tlte same is the case
with the quartz-veined block of green trap to the south-west.
There are detached white-yellow pitons to the north-east, the
ea.st aj\d the south ; wliilst a promising hillock is appended to
the north of the main outcrop. All have rounded conical
summits and smooth sides, arguing that tUey are yet virgin ;
and here, perhaps. I should prefer to begin operations.
This Jebel el-Mani rises from the left bank of the wady,
whose short gravelly reach is disposed north-west-south-east.
The ruitis, in n. lat. 26^ 13',* lie upon a fork whore two gorges,
ruiming to the east and the north-east, both fall into the
(northern) Wady el-Khaur ( ^, " of the low ground ") : our ca-
ravan ascended this line to-day, and to-morrow we shall descend
it. The remains on the upper or eastern brandi-valJey show
what kind of work Avas done, by a number of grinding imple-
ments— the common Mahrdkuh (ji^\^u-c) ^^ rubstone, and
the handmill, large andsmall, coarse and fine, all violently broken.
In the south-western, which is the main vjxlley, are the prin-
cipal ruins, forming a rude ]inrn]]e]ogram, disposed nortb-cast-
south-weat. The ground-plan presents the usuiil formless heaps,
squares and oblongs of stones and pebbles ; and the general
appearance is that of an ergastidum. Here perhaps the rock
was crushed and smelted, especially that which was not worth
sending down the wady, to be worked by water whore the inland
fort now lies.
Dnring the day Lieut. Amir, guided by Niiji, set out to
inspect sonxe rains to the south-west (2!0' mag.). After a
mile's ride, rep(irt«'d to bo a dozen, !ie fuuml a long-mouthed
pit sunk some 4 fathoms in the trap hill-skipe. Eastward of it,
and at the head of the Wady Shuwaytanah (jciajt-t;' ^^®
" Devilling "), lay a square ruin like a small ** Mashghal." Here
also were three stones^ scribbled in a modem Ivufic with pious
formnhe. The southern Wady cl-Kbaur was alterwards visited
on April 9,t
I lost all patience with Wellsted, whose blunders became
• The ohserrations are nil bv ALmed KapUn.
t Bee Part III. sect. vi.
Burton'* Itineraria of the Second Expedition into
infxfusable. He niftkes (ii. 185) the inland fort "about three
miles in the interior," wliereiis tho distunce is double. At
{>. 187 it becomes " five miles Irom the anchorage." He reaches
thcae ruins after 10 miles from the Fort, whilst they lie 12 to 13
miles iVom El-Wijh. He calls the porpbyritic trap "dark gra-
nite," notioiiifr " the thin and shining white veins, which run either
vortically or <liaf;onaUy between the masses." But the gmnd
quartz-formation is clianged to " limestone." He descends the
•' caves" with ropes and lights ; and lie fails to understand that
they are mining' sliafts and tunnels. The Ad. Chart, just as
bad, after correctly placing the inhiiid fort 6| miles from the
anchorage, thrusts the mine lOj miles eastwards from the Fort.,
when tlie latter distance is about the same as the farmer.
Moreover the ruins are laid down a little to the north, whereas
they lie ono mile south of the latitude of El-Wljh. It ignores
the porpbyritic sub-range, in whidi the '' Mother of the
Villages" lies; and it brings close to the east the tall peaks
of the Tihamat Balawiyyah, which, from this point, rise like
azure shadows on the far horizon. Lastly it corrupts Umm
el-Kaniyat to " Fayrabat."
In Hitter's 'Erdkunde' (von Asieu, Edit, of 1847, West
Asien, IV. Abtheihmg, § 78, vol. iii. jip. 27G-277) I find that
the celebrated French Arabist, Fnlgence Fresuel, afterwards
Consul de Franco at Jeddidi, visited '* Wed jh-Albahr (Wijh el-
Hahr), on April 28, 1S44, long enough after WelLsted to have
read his work.* Accompanied by the tShaykh ot" the "Beli"
(Bidiyy), whom Rittcr calls "Bily," a man who had guideil
Wellsted (?), be visited tJio ruins miscalled in the Admi-
ralty Cliart " Fayrabat " (our Umm el-lvaraviit). Fresnel
calls them Umm Foukhayyerat, which again he holdsi to be an
inveraion, more Arahico, for Uhoufayijtmt ("excavations"), a
dintinutive form of "Hafirat." He also calls the valley Wady
Fushaygh, the diminutive of Fnshagh, a mistletoe-like plant
which acts parasite to the mimosa. The Shaykh, who, like
other Bedawin, feared evil spirits, asstired him that tho English-
man had descended the mine, and had carried oft" a human skull
wrapped up in a cloth. All were careful before going down to
show conteniiit for the ghosts by spitting over the left shoulder.
Fresnel did not remark any signs of architecture, or of ruins,
nor was a single hewn stone found near these caA'es (mines) ; but
he observed the normal fragments of coarse glass like that of
our bottles, and tho many slags (>«chlacl-cu), which seemed to
show that here had been some mining-huts.
* C»r1c88 " Blemoir,*' * Proceedings Bombmv Oeograjiliical Society.' Bomb«v,
1837. Wellsted'a visit was in 1838.
*
In the Wady Zarayb (pv Az-Zourayb), not far from the Hajj-
station, Fresnel found the inscriptions which, I have shown,
Wellsted places in the AVady el-Moyuli, and Hitter seems
(p, 277) to be puzzled by this difference of uiimest. Ho locates
them together upon a naturul slab of rock extending 40 to 5U
paces ; they are either roughly scratched in or cut into the
"granite" by hard stones like quartz. The characters number-
ing from 3, 4, to 12. refer apparently to one subject; some are
disposed in straight perpendicular lines, or, where the rock
did not give space, obliquely, and even horizontally, ranged one
under the other. In the setection copied by Fresnel. each row
separated by lines is complete in itself:* the whole is accompani^xl
by rude figures with horned beasts, as gazelle and ibex, like
those brought from Sinai by Niebuhr (vol. i. Plate L.). The
traveller seems to have thought that the characters are old-
Phteuician or Nabathaean, He returned to El-\\'ijh without
going farther inland.
March 31sf. — We sot out, at 5.10 a.m., in puffs of a warm
wind that promii!ed three days of the '' Dufnii ■" and, leaving El-
Karayat by the upper (east) valley, fell into and descendetl its
recipient the Wady el-Khaur el-Shimali (of the north). On the
right bank of this broad Fiumara rose the lesser *' Mount of
Quartz;" and for the next 2 hours ( = 7 miles) we saw on both
sides immense veins and outcrops of " Maru." Presently these
made way for a yellow-white heat-altered clay, often revetted
with iron. The hills on either side of the valley form no
regubr line ; they are detached pyramids of black, red, and
rusty traps, here and there eliffing, as if in presence of the sea.
With our advance the vegetation improved; the trees were no
longer bhick and leaf-stripped, and the familtnr growths pre-
sently reappeared. Shepherds' tents and flocks showed that
water was not far oft'; and the young Baliyy women seemed to
have no fear of the w hite face.
After a slow dull ride we crossed the head of our ugly
acquaintance W'ady Zurayb, did the same to the Tala' el-Nimr,
and entered the Wady el-Kubbah (" of the Uome "), which finds
its way through the Wady Za'im {^\\) to the sea. Before us
rose a grizly black saddle-back ; and upon its tall northern end,
the pommel, stands the promised "cupola." Eouuding the
block to the north, we followed the wady to the Mtiyat el-
Kubbah, water-pits in the sand, whose produce had been truly
reported to be salt, scanty and stinking. The path then turned
• Under B, Fresnel gives the only two-UnfJ porpendiculaT inscription : Ihoso
labelled A aud O nre taken by WvllsttKL
122 Bukton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian,
up a short broad brancb-valley, runuiiig south-north, and
entering the left bank of the main line: a few yards then
brought us to a halt at the mines of El-Kubbah ; and our
niorniug'g ridr liiid histed 4 hours (=13 miles).
The ruins lie in the uneven quartzose basin at the head of
their iiullali, and the only pccuharity of tlie place is a broken-
down tSiikiyah (" dra\v-\vell ") with a basin of weathered alabaster.
The rocks here worked were apparently the iV<v/ro-t[uartz and
the rosy micaceous schist. Meanwhile the juniors ascended
the Kubbah-hill (aner. 'JO •34) about 120 feet above the sole
(aner. 29 •4t?). Tho "dome" was notliiug Ijut a trimcated
circle of wall, porphyry and cement, just large enough to hold
u man ; and adjoiuiug it was a rock-cut pit, some 15 feet deep.
These look-out places are peculiarly Arab.
The caravan was sent forward to reach the only good water
reported to be distant. We followed it, and, after half an hour,
were led out of the Wady ol-Kubbali, whose head, nur proper line,
lies to the north, with an eastern influent, the Wady el-Dasnah
(«\lJjj ^^ "little water"). Here we found the tents pitched
near a large pit> the Mayat el-Dasnah, which lies in n, lat,
2(1' 23'. Our afternoon's ride was of 4.") minutes (=2^ miles);
and the tot^l was 4 hours 45 minutes (=15^ miles), another
duy nearly half wasted.
Aiyril \st. — The pn>verbial Fools'-day was a second that
<les<n-ved marking with a white stone. AVe set out at 5.10 A.M.»
exjiecting to make the Umm Gezaz pits; but Inckily I had
ordered the water-camels to be loaded. From the \\ ady el-
Basuah we struck north, over the rim of low trap-hill, by a
short cut, evidr-ntly artificial, and regained the Wady el-Kubbah.
In 1 hour ( = 4 miles) wo reached its head, a fine round plain
Komt' 2 miles across ; girt with red, green and black In'ghlands.
it was a replica of the iSadr basin. There was even a Khurtiytah
at the northern end, but this Col is a mere " bogus" pass, not
leading to a raised plateau.
An easy metalled [)ath crossed a shallow prism, and presently
fell into the feeding-basin of Wady Musayrih (^.j^ . ^. ^). The
latter led, by an ugly little gorge, to the broadest Fiumara we
had yet seen, the Wady Sirr ( .),* which, though far from its
mouth, took us 45 minutes ( = nearly 3 miles) to cross. We
are now in the hydrographic area of the Wady Nejd, which was
BuBTON'jf Jtineraries of the Second Expedition into Alidinn. 123
confounded by AVallin with the Wndy Hamz some 40 milea to the
south. Numbering influents by the dozen, it falls into the Wady
iSalbah (^v^) ^^^^' ^^harm Dumayghab. The guides call this
Sirr " Asl el-Balnwiyyuh " (the old borne of the Baliyy tribe).
The view from its bed is varied ajid oxtt-nsive. Westward lievS-
the Tihamat iSnlani'yyah, the equivalent of the Gbata of North
JVIidiuii between El-Zahd and El-Slui'rr ; the items are the little
Jebel 'An till- and the big Jebcl Libu. In front ( east) rise the pde-
blue heights bordering the Wady Nejd to tlie north-west, and
apparently connected with the Jebelayn el-Jayy ( -vO^ )' ^"^^ ^^
tlie north (30'^ mag.). To the north-east the view is closed by
the lumpy Jebel el Kurr (the Qorh of Arabian geographers?),
followed sontliwarth by tiie \\'ar<l and tlie Suf hah. For the last
18 miles wo had seen no quartz, but now the Sirr-solo appeared
streaked with snow ; the stones aro nio:^tly water-rolled, the dis-
charge of the watercourses. The ground was uui)lea5antly pitted
and holed ; and the camels, weakened by semi-starvation and
the south-wester, kept tlieir leg*! Avith difficulty.
Presently we stnuk up a short divide beyond the far bank of
the Wady MiiT. It is strewn with glittering mica-schist that
takes the form of rotten woiid, and with purple-blue ehiy-slates,
looking as if they liad been worked. A countersloi^ of the
same material plaeed us in the Wudy Rubayyigli (" the little
Itabigh." the ** luxuriant in herbage," or ''a green-grown
spring "), a short broad branch draining to the Wady Sirr. IIiTe
large outcrops of quartz mingled with the clay-slate. A few
yards farther, it abutted upon a small gravelly basin, with
mins and a huge white reef of " 3Ia:-u/' which caused a ])reci-
pitate dismounting. We had marched only 4 hours ( = 13
miles), and the Arabs congratulated iis upon reaching a part of
their country absolutely unvisited by Europeans.
The site of our tind uas the water-parting of the Wady Eubay-
yigh with the Wady Kabjgh, both feeders of the Wady Sirr — this
to the north, thut to the south. The ruins are knovvn as Umm el-
Ilarjib (, ;\ ^^) J in classical Ambic this would mean "Mother
of the War," of Desolation ; but the Arabs seem to understand
by it '' Mother of Nutoriety." They are the usual basements,
almost bmied and swept away, occupying an utterly waterless
basin, that lies west of the White Reef, Manx Rnbuyyigh. Tliey
bear neiirly north of Uuim el-Karayat, in N. lat. 20" 33' 30" ;
and the altitude, by a mean of three observations, is upwards
of 1000 feet above the sea-level (aner. 28-92).
At Umm el-Harab we see, fur the first time, an open mine
■
124 BoBTON*j9 Itineraries of the Second Expedition into 3Iidinn.
wientifipally Avorked by the men of olJ. I must again quote
Pliny (loe. cit,), whose valuable chapter is an epitome of Roman
mine-cnift : " Kelinquimtur itaque ioruiues (aruhes) crebri mou-
tibns sustinrnclis," &c. The workmen ehoso a pear-shaped
quartz-reef, the upper dome exposed, the couvergin;^ s^lopes set
in green trap to the east, aad the invisible stalk extendiniij
downwards, probably deep into earth's bowels. They began by
sinkinfr, as we see from certain rounded apertures, a line of
shafts striking N.N.E. (45''-30^ mag.) to s.s.w., across the summit,
which may measure 120 yards. The intervening sections of
the roof are now brolcen away ; and a great yawning crevasse in
the hilltop, a saddle-back of bare cream-coloured rock, gives it
the semblance of a comb or rresting-reef. For the details of
the work ; for the use of fire and water, which here took the
place of the classic vinegar ; and for the fine granite mills here
used, the reader is referred to another volume. *
In tho evening we ascended the porphyrittn hills to the north
of the little camping-basin, and found the heights striped by
two large vertical bands of quartz. The eastern bad a north-
east-south-west strike (45" mag.), like tho Jebel el-Mani ; the
western ran east-west with a dip to south. From the summit
we could also see that the quartz mountain, as usual an
exaggerated vein, was hemmed in on both sides by outcrops
and nills of trtip, black, green, and yellow, which culminated
eastwards in the Jebel el-Giuiib (^_j^ ^). We had a fine view of
the Wady Eabigh, and of our next day's march towards the Shafah
mountains : tho former was white with quartz, as if hail-strewn.
Far beyond its right bank rose an Ash'hab (^_<i * \). ash-
coloured, or "grey-head," which apparently promised quart-
zose gi-anite — it will prove an iraj>ortant feature. Before
sleeping, I despatched to El-Wijh two boxes of micaceous
sehist, and two bags of quartz, lends for a pair of camels.
IV. To EI'Badii. — Alter tho exciting R-ones of the last two
days we shall have some dull riding, and consequently, 1 fear,
dull writing.
April 2nd. — At 5,10 A.M. we set off afoot down the rough
lino of the little watercourse draining the " llarii Rubayvigh"
to the Wady Rabigh. Wo then crossed ttie latter, anotfier of
tlie short l>ruad valleys which distinguish this aeettou nf South
3Iidian, The bed-sides, especially the right, showed heaps and
mounds of snowy quartz, with glittering crowns of roclc and
boulders, veins in the grey granites, whose large coarse ele-
BcBTOx'i Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 125
ments htid been decomposed by weather. The aspect wa«
]ieiL'uli(ir; tliey seemed ti) pour from the dark rocky masses
bordering the bed, and they looked like Got. (" saiid-henps ")
banked up by the wind. We then entered a lateral valley,
Kkurni (^\o\e oi) el-Maluish (/*\,^Uc) ; and a short divide led
to El-J3ahrab (^ ^^o)» * basin feeding the Wady Sirr.
Then began a long up-slopc, with a longer counter-slope, the
Wady Mulaybij („>(_*Juc)> ^^'^^i'-li gave us a prospect of Jebel
Raydan, with its familiar head and dorsum. The watercoui'se,
after forming a " round jwint," narrows to a gut, and presently
debouches upon the broad Wady el-Gbami's ( - ,g.)- We
crossed the latter diagonally, and fell into the equally wide
Wady Aba '1-Gezaz (■ \*j); the name, probably a corruption
of Zujaj ( \_a^' ), would mean " Father of Glass," either
from the ruins on its bank, or from the strews of quarts. This
tributary of the Wad}' Sirr reminded us of tlie ]>amah, with its
fine vegetation of fan-palm, Daum-trees, asclepias, tamarisk,
and wild castor-plant, whose use is unknown. Yet the Arabs
complained that their camels found no forage. Water wells up
abundantly from a dozen shallow pits, old or now, in the sand
of the S(juthern (left) bank. Here the flow is arrested by a tall
rocky buttress,
Eliding our short march of 4 hours (=12^ miles) we camped
to await the caravan, which had gone round by the Wady
llabigh, and for the benefit of the mappers. This place forms
an excellent connecting-link between north and south. In the
former din'ctiou we see the ZigljJb-block of JSbagLab bearing
nearly north (350'' mag.), and the adjoining Jebel el-Aslali,
also a blue cone on the horizon, about 352" : to south-east lies
the Jebel el-Kurr ( ^), along which we shall travel. ^H
In the evening we found an atelitr adjoining our camp, '
but apparently unknown to the guides, and we called it
" Masbgal Abii 'l-Gezaz. " The site is the slope of a trap-hill
facing the Wady el-Ghamis and the "■ mesopotamian " plain
below. Both highlands and lowlands are white-patched with
mounds, veins, jmd scatters of quartz. This great line of valley
was probably occupied along i<s whole length by many a settle-
ment, whose very names are unknown. The same was remarked
i
12G Bueton's Itineraries of the Second £xj)edttion into Midian.
of the Wady Damah. Here we are about a day and a half-s
march from the sen.
April ^rd. — At 5 a.m. we struck up the Wady Aba '1-Gezdz,
loose sandy soil, so honoycninbcd that noither man uor beast
could tread with safety. Auiiual life wus unusually abundant,
wolf, hare, porcupiuo and hedgehog ; hawks', owls, and crows ;
pigfeona and ringdoves, swifts and swallows; the water-wagtail
uud the mero})s ; the hoopoe and the butfber-bird. Charred
circlets in the sand sliowed where alkali had been burnt for
shipping at El-AV'ijh.
After 1 hour ,'>0 minutes (=5 nules> the *' Father of Glass "
changed his name to Ahil Daumnh ("Father of the single
Daum-palm "). Porphyritic trap lay on both sides of us. To
the right rose the Jebel 'Ukbul f \oj-A. whose grey head
(El-Ash'hab) we had seen yesterday; tlie four cones forming
the south-western vim of the Bada. saucer are known as El-
'Akdbil. Below those blocks tho wady-sides are cut into
buttresses of yellow clay, powdered with iSabkh, or impure salt.
The water, when there is any, swings under the Id't bank, and
forms two ]iriiicipal pools or holes. The Bodawin, failing to
make us halt, declared that the pits had btifu buried, hut the
escort soon found them out. The Arab over loves the night
journey, enabling the camel to work in the cool hours, and to
graze during the day: moreover both wild men and citizens
are equally fond of "sitting up" and talking iuterminablo
"shop." The Mahattat (c-A2l>^w«) el-'Orban, " the halting-
place of the Arabs," is determined by water and forage, so as
to vary from 5 to 25 miles. Consequently the Baliyy would
reduce our stages to four hours a day, and they hate the
regularity of our work.
Hitherto we had been marching south of east. Presently,
where the pretty green Wudys el-Sunim (|*i)j— j) and el-
Marwdt fall into the left bank, we turned a corner, and saw
before us (north) the great plain EI-Bada. It is backed
by a curtju'n so tall that wo seemed, b)^ a common optical
delusion, to be deseeniling, when wo wore really rising rapidly.
The black range, EI-'Alcabil, had projtxted a, loop of some
10 miles to be rounded, whereas a short cut across it would
not have exceeded three. And now the wady abruptly
changed formation, the red and green traps of the right side at
once made way for grey and quartz-veined granites wcatherefl
to the quaintest forms. The basin is soled with sides comfort-
ably metalled, and with falls of sand unpleasantly loose and
BuRTOJJi Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian, 127
honeycombeiJ. After a total of 4 houra 45 minutes (= IG miles)
we dismounted at the celebrated palm-grove of El-Badu (^ jo)*
The next day was devoted to inspertin;:^ tho Biijat-Bada (the
**wide plain of Brt<la"), as this cboive siti' is distinguished by
the BedawiTi. It fultila all the comlitions required by the
centre and head-quarters of Tharauditis. The position, topo-
OTaphically speiiking, is a bul}2;e in the Wady Nejd, bet'ore it
becomes the \Vady Abii Daumah, between theShafah Mo«mti>in8
to the east, and tho Tihamah range seawards. The latitude
(Ahmed Kaptan's observation of Polaris) is 2GM5';30", Ptolemy
being as usual low (n. lat. 2.j' 30"): thus it is 0' 31' 3U"
north of El-Wijh. From a little way south of our camping-
ground the Jebel Ziglab bears 32", and the Aslah cone 30' (botli
mag,). It lies, therefore, south of Shuwak, with a little westing,
and Yakut (iii. 302) makes it one day's march from '' Shaghba"
(Shaghab). The altitude is upwards of 1200 feet above the
sea (aner. 28*72, the mean of six obs.). The size of the oval
is about 9 miles (statute) from north to south, by 12, an area
of some 108 sqmire miles. The general aspect of the plain
suggests that of El-Hawra. The growth is richer than the
northern, but not eciual to that of the southern country. The
ruins belong to the Bfagh^ir Shu'ayb categor}', and the people
compare the "Hawawit" with those of Maduiu Sulili. Such is
the great station on the Nabatha3an highway between Leuke
Kome and Petra ; the commercial and industriah the agricul-
tural and mineral centre which the Greeks called Be^aw, and
the Kouians Baihmatha. In the days wli(:'n the Hajif -Caravan
used to descend tho Wadys Nejil and the " Father of dlass," it
was known to Arab geographers as the Bjulti Ya'kub, that now
forgotten patriarch being supposed to have visited it from
Egypt or Syria.
The Biijat Bacia is fioored with grey granite, underlying
a modern sandstone, which, not mxlike cural-rag, served for
building purposes. Through this crust outcrop curious hillocks,
or rather piles of hard, dark-rod and iron-revetted rock, with a
white or a rusty fracture. They form the characteristic features
of the basin. Tbe lower levels are furrowed, as usual, with thin
threads of sand by the rain-torrents discharged from the
mountains. The Shafah curtain to the north breaks into a
number of peaks named after their ^vadys. Beginning from
west are Jebels Sehayyir ( ^<<^..J. 'Unka (lu'.-,theGriflin\
Marnkh (P. K of shrub), Genayy ( •^), El-Hazzah C^^s^).
El-Madhanah (jCjbji^)* Buza'mah (:.^^,^ \), and Umuwah
i
130 BuetON'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
a Pool of Bethesda for suffering Arab humanity. Shaykh
'Afniin, whose tents are pitched one day aliead of us, confirmed
these statements, adding that the Shafah Mountains are a mere
ridge, not the seaward walk of a plateau ; and that the land
east of them is exactly that which we have already traversed.
He spoke of brimstone being picked up on the hill-flauks,
and he had heard of El-Kobl (Stibium or Collyrium) being
found about El-Muharrak. At Waily Aba 'I-Gezil/, Mohammed
destroyed all our surviving hopes by picking up a black stone
which, he said, Avaa the object of our search. Schist Mith a
natural fracture not unlike coal, and weathered into tlie
semblance of wood, it unfortunately did not contain an atom
of bitumen. I have too much faith in Arab acumen to reject
the lesson.
April 5th, — At 4.45 A.M. we took the track which crosses the
Biijat Bada to the south-east. Fctr a few yards it is vilely i"at-
eateu ; presently it issued upon stony ground ; and, after
1 hoiu" 15 minutes (= 4 miles), it enlcrcdtbe Wady el-Marwat.
a vulgar gorge, broad, rough, and uupicturesque, marked by a
round head to the north. Jebel Wasil ( V-c\,), "that joins or
connects." The sole shows several dry-stone piles, ruins of
*' boxes " in which the Arab traveller passes the night, wliilst
his camels are tethered outside. Crossing the mouth of the
Wady Nakib e!-'Arus, which drains thf hill of the same uame, to
the Wady el-Marwat. we entered the upper course of the latter.
After a total ride of 3 houi"s 45 minutes ( = 11 miles), we reached
its head, a "Khuraytah" rising some 2100 feet above the sea-
level. " Marwat," as the Baliyy called it, shows worked veins
of snowy quartz, a few ruins which supplied me with a Kutic
inscription, and a fine reef uf '" Mani," b feet wide, and trending
332° (mag.).
From the Col two i-oads lead to our nigh ting-place. Ee-
jecting, on account of our unshod mules, the short cut to the
right, reported as rough and stony, we followed tholong slope that
led to the Wady Zikah (jjl.^), and eventually to the Wady
el-Kurr, draining the block of that name to the Wady el-Miyah.
Despite the many Zawabahs (dust-devils) we pushed on for
another 1 hour 30 minutes { = 'ik miles), and a total of
5 hours 15 minutes (= 15J miles), before halting to break our
fast. Resuming the way after the usual hour, we rode down
the valley, meeting only a few men driving asses; and pre-
sently we sighted the gnmd '• Gate " of the reach, here running
north-south. The material is porphyritic trap, red, green,
yellow, and white, with argi]c, almost enveloping the rounded
Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into 3Iidian. 120
Huzaybat (1 . ,.^i». or isolated liillock). On tlie plain to
its north ore niins, probably of a work intended to defend the
eastern approach, »nd to the Bouth appear the usual signs oran
atelier.
To conclude- The beautiful Eiijat, IJada has, according to
the Baliyy, seen worse days. About tvventy years ago, how-
ever, the wells wore reopened, nn<l tlio dat'-trees were replanted.
As for its future, we may safely predict that, unless occupied
by a civilised people, the fair basin will again come to grief.
Nothing would be easier than to rebuild the town and to pre-
pare tlie ]ilain for cultivatiou, but destruction is more in the
liedawi line.
V. To Marivfif and the Wadtj JIamz. — Before leaving EI-
Bada I was canful to make all manner of inquiries coucerning
8toue-coal ; and the guides confirmed the suspicions which bad
long suggested theniselveg. It is an old story. El-Mukaddnsi
(p. 103) liivs tlio following passiige unconnected with tbosc
which ])recede and follow it. *" A tire arose between P^l-SIarvvat,
and EMTaura; and it burned even as oimrcoal {cl-fahm) hwrw^y
Proj". Sprenger— who, by-the-by, lirst brought to light the flLS.
published by Prof, de Goeje in bis ' Bibliotheca Geograpbarmu
Arabicorutu' — probably read "and it ftbe stone) burnt^d ai
charcoal bui-us;" suggesting that the nouses and huts were
built, of some inflamraable material, like the bituminous schihit
of the Brazil ; and that the Arabs were surprised to see thf?m
taking fire. Evidently, however, the text refers to an eruption
in one of the uutny volcanic districts {^Harrahs). My learned
friend writes to me iu June 13, 1877, *' it is likely that west of
Marwa. on the way to Ilawrd (which lies ou the seashore), coal
is found. I confess that the proiipect of diseoveriug much coal
in Arabia does uot appear to rae very great; still it woidil be
worth while to make inquiries." Subsequently (December 8,
J877) he gave up all hopes of the pure mineral; but he still
clove to inflammable matter.
At El-Wijb, I consulted the VVakil Jlohammed Shahddah.
In past times he bad sent for a camel-load of the stuff; but, ho
declared, it would not take lire, lie then travelled in person
to the Jfbel el-Muharrak (" burnt iMouutaiu '*), whicli he places
5 short marches iuland from El-Buda, and behind its northern
curtain, the Jibal el-Shafah. According to him, El-Muharrak
is part of the great Horrali; and El-Jaww, which stretches
north (?) of it, is a prolongation of the Hisma plateau, here
belonging to the Baliyy. The mountain is tall and black ;
near its summit lies the Bir el-8hiia (" Well of Healing "), a
pit of cold sulphur-water, excellent for the eyes and generally
VOL. XLIX. K
132 Bukton'5 Itineraries oftJua Secoiul Expedition into Midian.
Leaving tho curious wLito divide, wo file into the Wady
Gamimh {^ ^W)> with the dwarf range of the same name ou
the rii^ht buuk ; it i.s also an influent of the Wady el-Miydh.
After 1 hour 45 minutes (=4 miles), we halted for rest, resum-
ing our march at 11.45 a.m. down the bed. A short divide then
placed us iu the Wady Saniacl, which belongs to the same basin.
The Shaykha t!ieu led us over another water-parting to the
Wady el-'Laylab, uhieh drains both the Sliafah and tlu> Tihamah
ranges : the Jinu lies too far east ; we should liave followed the
western Wady cl-Tufayyah (jt^^ji^),* in which ruins are said ta
exist. However, we had no reason to repent. Hilla of " Mani"
now appeared ou either side, creamy-coated cones each capped
by its own sparkle, whoso brilliancy was set oflf by the gloomy
traps which they sheeted aud tupped. In some places the
material may have been the usual hard, wliite, heat-altered
clay ; but the valley-sole showed only pure quartz. The
heiglit of several hills was nearly double that of the northern
Jebel el-Abyaz, and the reef-crests were apparently unwnrked.
We rode on for 2 hours (=6 miles), making a total for that
day of 7 hours (=18 miles), when we were begged to halt in
the broad, open, aud waterless Wady Laylah.
April 1th. — At 5 a.m. we resumed our way up the Wady
Laylab, which here makes a largo bend to the north, whereas
our direction was to the south-west. Having heard of a short
cut to the west, a eontinuatiou of the Wady Tufayyali Hue, I
set out ou foot in the iattej direction ; Abdullah, the Mulatto,
shouted ■' Wa'r" ('Ware rocks !); but this was " crying wolf"
for the second time. After a steep descent, without difficulty
to loaded camels, we hit the little Wady Zuraydlm ( .jo • )> *
feeder of the Wady Laylab. Here the line forks. I tried the
southern section or up-stream, which would indeed have been a
short cut : unfortunately it ended in a wall of rock, the Sha'ab
Abu Siyal, A water-pool explained the meaning of the broad
footpath which had deceived mo. After losing 10 minutes, w©
retraced our stops, and, following tlio northern fork, at G.30 A.M.
(1 hour 30 minutes = 0 miles), we regained the \\'a(Iy el-Laylah
in time to see the caravan, which had taken the longer line,
pass in review before ua.
At this point the Wady el-Laylah changes name to the Wadv
el-Bu-kah (" of the Tank ") ; and we shall follow its course till
* Tlie clasaical Tufynli ia n " mulignant ecrpent, marked on the back with two
black lines,"
Bubton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 133
received into the mighty arms of the "Wady Hamz, some 3 miles
from the sea. This upper part commands fine views of the
Jibal el-Safhah (A-<i,Q^^).the " Mountains of the Plain," so-called
from their rising suddenly out of a dead level. Seen beyond
the dull traps that hem in our wady, the noble blocks, espe-
cially the lower features, the mere foothills, assume every
quaintest variety of hue and form. The fa^vn-grey ground-
colour of the granite, here shining as if polished by "slickensides,"
there dull and roughened by the rude ungentle touch of Time,
is a neutral tint that takes every glazing with which sun and
moon, mist and cloud paint the world. Changeable as the
chameleon's, the coating is never the same for two brief hours.
The protean shape, seen in profile and foreshortened, from the
north or south, appears as blocks bristling with "pins" and
points, chimney-tops, horns, and beaks. Viewed from the
east the range splits into a double line, whose ranks have never
been " dressed " nor sized ; whilst a diagonal prospect so alters
their features that they seem to belong to another range.
After much time wasted in ascertaining the names of the
several items, I give them as they were told to me, declining,
however, to answer for their correctness. The principal blocks
number three ; the two first are in the Saf hah and the third
lies south of it.
1. The Jebel el- Ward, a white-streaked and regular wall
visible from the sea. It is separated by a broad valley from
its southern neighbour ; and its outliers are the pale-white and
jagged Jebel 'Afayr ( ^x) * ^^^ *^® ^^^S ^^^ lumpy, low
and dark Jebel Tufayyah.
2. The GJialab (^J^) or Ughlub, a monstrous " Parrot's
Beak" of granite, continued by a long dorsum to the south.
Its four outliers are the Jebel Natash ( /■••.\).t perpendicular
buttresses pressed tightly together ; the Tala 't Muhajjah
i^i^ssAj^ C-'Jtiis)' * broken saddle-back with two monstrous
towers; the Jebel Umm el-Natakah (^jj^O, all blocks and
blocklets, bristling like the fretful porcupine ; and lastly, the
Jebel el-Khausilah (aJuj ^ii.)* ^^ appearance thoroughly archi-
tectural.
* El-Ufayr was the name of the ass ridden by Mohammed,
t The dictionaries explain Natash as tlio •' herb gromwell."
134 BurtonV Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
3. The Jihilayn el-Rdl are separated from the Khaiisilah by
the AVady Haraz ; tlieso two conical peaks aro divided and
drained by the broad AYady el-Sula' (^i^^^), down which the
E^7)tian Hajj, returning northwards from ]']1-Medinah, de-
boiicncs upon the TOaritiine pkin uf iSouth Ulidian.
Presently falls in a remarkable influent iVom the left or
east, the Wady el-Nabi' (nj\j), g^ai-nished with a long line
of Daum-palma, and the main lino benda from north-east to
sonth-west. After riding about 3 liours 30 minutes (=8 miles)
we reached the BJrkah, where the great wady narrows and
forms a river-like run about 1^ mile long. The large blue-
green pool on the rip:ht side is act in dense beds ol nishes,
which shelter a variety of water-fuwl ; about the run are
dwarf enclosures where even water-raolons have bef^n sown.
Whilst the camels drank, we halted ibr a few uiiuut<.'S under
the masses of trap which widl in the loft bunk ; and then we
pressed forwards down-stream, following the tlireads of fluid.
Farther on was another liu<! '' Gate," whose right jamb was the
Jibai el-Tibgh, fronting the AVady M'jirmah. The narrows
showed two Arab wells; and there was no break in the con-
tinuity of the quartz. ITaving; travelled down sundry bends,
■Re halted uadar the usual thorn at 11 A.M.; thus ending a
second stage of 2 hours (=6 miles), llere a fine Cerastes was
brought to me.
The hshaykhs were anxious to push on for another 30 minutes
to a rain-pool which they reported in the ravine Sha'b el-Kahafah
{^9J^> ; but we had been told of another in the Sha'b el-
Harr, which might serve our photographer. The result is
curious, showing how jenlously water-secrets are kept in these
lauds. The next thing I heard was that the water had waxed
salt, then it had dried uji ; and, lastly, it was in the best
Eossible condition, the truth beiug ihat there ivas none at all.
'onsequently we were oliliged to send back four camels and
two men from our next camping-ground to the Sha'b el-
, Kahafah. Kesuming the road at 2.30 p.m., we entered the
western Wady el-Birkah, wliich here, finally, becomes the
Wady el-'Ajaj ( \^^i " of Dust "). In 2 hours 15 minutes
( = 6 miles), and a total of 7 hours 35 minutes ( = 20 miles), we
camped at a noble reach and enjoyed a glorious night.
April Sth, — There were tliflferences of opinion concerning the
stage ahead. Lieut. Amir's map made it 11 geographical miles
Burton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian. 135
long; the Arabs said 4 hours; the Frenchmen 10 hours,
and the moderates 6 hours — even they were 45 minutes too
dow. Setting out late, at 5 a.m., delayed by the Shaykhs and
too much whisky, we reached in 30 minutes a lower and a
larger bulge of the bed, whose water is 'known as Mdyat el-
Badi'ah (<)jtjjO. ^^^ " Wonderful "). At G a.m. (1 hour=3i
miles) we ended the hilly encasement of the Wady with
El-Adra (\ j^, the " Rainy "), a red hutte to the left, and,
on the right, a quartz-veined green knob, the J. el-Yakhmiim
{^».^^\j)' Though 400 feet above sea-level, the land com-
mands no sea-view, and yet there is nothing monotonous in it.
To the south lies the boundary line Ras Kurkumah (•* Turmeric
Head ") ; the Jebel el-Birakh rises to the left beyond the raised
bank of the great Wady Hamz, which, sweeping with a mighty
curve from north-east to west, stretches across our path.
Knobby hills are scattered over the plain; and on our right
appears the Jebel el-Juwayy / ^^\ the " unwholesome "),
a black mound with white-sided and scarred head, whose
peculiar shape — a crest upon a slope — represents once more
the familiar Secondary formation of north-western Arabia.
Thus the gypsum has been traced from the Sinaitic shore
as far south as the Wady Hamz,'and doubtless it does not end
here.
At 7.35 A.M. (2 hours 35 minutes = 8 miles) we crossed a
winding, broad and spreading track, the upper road by which
the Egyptian " Mahmal " passes, when returning via the
Wady Hamz from El-Medinah. A few yards farther on showed
us a similar line, the route taken by the caravan when going
to Meccah via Yambii'. The two meet in the Wady Wafdiyyan
(<XjjJ.),* to the north-east of the site which we shall visit
to-morrow.
A little past 10 a.m. (5 hours 15 minutes=16i miles), we
crossed the deepest vein of the Wady Hamz, and reached the
Gasr (" Palace ") of Gurayyim Sa'id — Sa'id the Brave.
Our march to the farthermost southern point of Egypt-land
had lasted 11 days (March 29-April 8) without includ-
ing the single halt (April 4), and the two days* march re-
' Wafcl " is the summit of a sandy hill.
136 Bdrton'* Itineraries of the SecoTid Erpcdition into Midian.
tinning to El-WijU. The following is a list of stations and
iliitt'S : —
i. March 2i). El-Wij)i to Inland Fort 1 h. 4ym. = 6 mil«.
:i. „ 30. To Uinm el-Kanlyat 2h. iom. = 6} „
U. „ 'i\. „ Mayat t'l-I>a8iiiih 4h. 4om. = 15^ „
4. April 1. „ Umm el-Uftr.ib 4h. Oni. = 13 „
5, „ 2. „ AM'l-GosLiiz 4h. Om. = 12| „
0. „ 3. „ El-Ba.W 4h.45ui. =^ 1<; „
„ 4. Halt i\t El-Badil.
7. r >• 5. To Marwat and 'Ayn el-Kurr .. 7 b. 0 m. = '1% „
ti. „ 6. „ Wady Liiylah .. 7 h. Om. = IS „
y. „ 7. „ Wady ol-'Ajaj 7 h. Sfi m. = 20 „
10. „ 8. „ tbc Gft.sr (Wady Hntnz) .. .. 5h. l.o in. = 104 „
Totals ,. .. 4S h. 20 m. = li4i „
VI. Tlie Palace of Saul the Brave ; The Mine of « Martvah"—
For architectural details concerning the " Gasr," I must refer
my readei-8 to auotlu-r place.* Here its gcograpliieal position
only will bo iloseribf il.
The site of this classical bnihling, the sole remnant of its
kind found during tho four months of exploration, lies in
N. lat. 25" 55' 15" (xVhmocl Knptaii's solar ouservation) ; and
the centre of the " Libn " hlot-k bears from it 3^0" (mag.). It
stands upon the very edge of tho Wady llamz's left bunk, a
clifilet Fome 2'> feet high, sloping iahiml, with the usual dark
metal disposed upon hiose yellow sand. Thus it commands a
glorious view of the tree-gruuii valley, or rather valleys, be-
neath it; and of the picturesque peaks of tho Tihamat
Balawfyyali in the buckgrcniud. The distance from the sea
is now a little over three miles — in ancient days it may have
been much less.
The condition of the digging proves that the remains have
not long been ojwned : the fialiyy state less than Lalf-a-century
ago, but exactly when, or by whom, are details apparently
luiknown to them. Before that time tho locale must have
shown a mere tumulus, a nmund somewhat larger than the
mauy which pimple tho raised valley-bank liehiud the building.
As at Uriconium, a wall is said to have projected above ground;
this may have suggested excavation, besides supplying material
for the Bodawi cemetery to the suutL-west. The torrent-wators
have swept away the whole of the northern enceinte, and the
treasure-seeker has left his mark upon the interior. Columns,
and pilasters, and cut stones, morticed and bevelled, have been
iiurled into the wady below ; the large pavement-alabs have
* Boo ',Tho Lftod of Midian (Kerisited),' obap. xix.
Bdrton'j Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
been torn up and tossed to a chaos ; and the restless drifting
of the loose desert-sand will soon bury it once more. The
result of all this ruthlfss ruin wjis simply nil ; the imaginative
Naji declared that a "stone-dog" had been found, but what
bad become of it nobody knew.
The " Palace " is a Eomiin building of late style, but whether
Nymphseura or Ileroon, temple or tomb, we had no means of
ascertaining. It must Lave been a bright and briliiant bit of
Colouring in its best days : hence possibly the local tradition
that the stone sweats oil. The Ualiyy declare that the quarries
are still open at Abu Makharir under the hills embosoming
Abd *1-Marii : the whulo ruin, froru pavement to coping, a
square of 27 feet, is of alabaster, plain white, and streaked
with ruddy, mauve and dark tints, whose mottling gives the
effect of marble. Although the JMeccan Ka'bah is, as its name
denotes, a cube, the workmanship of this square box is too care-
ful to suggest either Arab or !Nnbathiean origin. Perhaps an
investigation of the ruins ut lias Kurkuuiah, and the remains
of Madain Siilib may throw some light ujiun the mystery. At
present 1 can only suggest that it is a Kau<i or shrine, evidently
a remnant of the days when the liomans held the whole
country as far south as E!-llaura.
The town probably stood on the left bank of the Wady Hamz,
to judge from tlie many mounds which rise behind the "Gasr."
I opened one of these lumidi, and found the interior traversed
by a crumbling wall of cut alabaster — regular excavation may
some day yield important result-^. A Bedawi cemetery, adorned
Avith tilt; mutilated spoils of the classical building, adjoins it,
and here we picked up two imperfect skulls and four fragments.
Kot a word of inscription, not a mason's mark was to be found,
A little to the south-west lies a manner of ossuary, a tumulus
slightly raised above the wavy level, and showing a central pit
choked with camels' bones. This is a memorial of a certain
Sa'id, sumamed El-Gurayyim ( ;), a word derived from the
root Garam (Karam), i,e. " having an insatiable appetite for a
flesh diet;" the vulgar understand by it a stout fellow, a brave
fighter. At first I thought it was derived from Jarim ( • -^),
a large-bodied man, but no one wrote it after that fashion. This
negro was promised Ids owner's daughter in marriage byway of*
reward for some doughty deed ; when diftaculties w^re made he
carried oft' the girl, and built this " Palace" by way of a home.
He scaudabsed the neighbourhood, however, by plundering the
■
138 Burton'^ Itinci'aries of the Second Expedition into Midian,
herds and eating a camel every day, till at last he was slain by
the Ibliowers of Diys'ib ibu Ghauim, one of the notables celebrated
in a romance callct! ' Sirat Abu Zayd.' *
Aiyril *Mh. — On tho finest possible morninjr, when the world
was uU abhxze with living light jwnd rosy llame, we walked
down the immense watercourse known universally in these parts
as the Wady Hamz ( A.^^)- The root has a signification
of " sourness," and gives origin to such biancboa as Humayzah
("Sorrel") and so forth. The watercourse, which has already
been mentioned as the southern frontier of ICgj'ptian Midian,
and the northern limit of the Ottoman Hejaz, is the most
notable feature of its kind upon the north-western Arabian
shore. Yet Spronger clean ignores the name, although he
mentions its branches ; and, of course, it is utterly neglected by
the Admiralty Chart. Wallin has unjustifiably described and
inscribed it " Wady Nejtl/' t confusing it, as we have seen^
with a northern basin, whose mouth the tSalbah (Thalb^h) we
passed before reaching Sliarm Dumayghah. His account of it
([)p. 1121-23) is marvelluurt, but excusable because he derives it
from the Bedawin. In tliefir.st place ho describes it as a "large
valley which, continuing in a south-Civsterly direction, descends
towards the interior of Arabia," in fact iluvviug upwards.
Secondly he rejKtrts it as "descending in a "lirectiou to Wegh
(El-Wijh), and in another towards Mediu a," thus half flowing
one way and half another; pnidently ailding, "not liaving
visited tlnit part myself, I cannot accurately define its course."
He also makes it " run along the southern si<ie of the Harrah
Mountains," which extend nearly a hundred miles to the south ;
and he depicts "Al-(iuww" (El-Jaww) as an "extensive plain
of satid like the Hisma" (true), but also "the southern and
almost only inhabitable part of the Harrah " — confusing a
sandy with a volcanic tract. Afterwards ho determines the
AVady el-Kuru, concerning which Arab geographei's give such
discrepant acconuts, to be a valley " whose mouth is at Ei-Wijh
and its head at El-Hijr;" and such garbled description can
apply only to tlic Wady el-Hamz.
This niaio approach to the Arabian intf-rior is not a fissure,
like tbe vulgar wady, but rather a broad campo opening to the
north-east, where the maritime chain breaks to tlie north and
soutli of it. Distant one long or two short marches from El-
* For fi u&dly superficial accouot of the latter eee Lane's * Modem Egyptians,*
III. chnp. xxL
t Ikaitlua oiur Wady NejJ. DiiickliBicIt (p. 418, ' Travels in Syria,' 4-c.) describes
a nortliern feature of tbe sftnic name near Shobak. Tlie term is common enough
in Axftbiiv, Uiinuing tlie " wutcrcoursf tUat drains the Ntjd or uplands."
J
Wijh, its mouth is in N. Int. 25° 55', mid it is said to head
fifteen days inknd, in fju.-t In-yuud El-^IediJiah, from which it
curves with a south-westeiiy beml. It receives a multitude of
important secondary valleys. Amongst them is the Wady el-
'Uwaynid, universally so pronounced, I cannot help thinking
that this is El-'Atiufd of El-'JIukaddasi, which El-Idrisf (er-
roneously ?) throws into the sea opposite Nu'inan Island. If
ray conjecture prove true, we then have a reason why this im-
portant lino has been inexplicably neglected. •' El-'Uwaynid "
13 not an un(;ommon name in this part of Arabia. Wallin
(p. 311) describes a "Wadi 'Uwoinid" which deboudies upon
th',^ Hisma plain: here he found sundry inscriptions (see my
Vol. I. p. 210). Another branch is the Wady el-Is (, ,..^),
Sprenger's " Al-'Y? " (pp. 28-20), which he calls "a valley in
the Juhaynah couutry," and makes the northern bouudaiy of
that tribe. The wttrd is written with a " Sin " and not with a
'SSad " ( .!•.). and pronounced like "Greece" without the
Gr. Klingt fiir den Freniden Ayz, says Sprenger (p. 154),
speaking to the German stranger. He mentions two others of
the same name, one in the yambii' country, not far from the
lied Sea, and connected by history with t!ie Apostle of Allah ;
and the second (No. 3) in the Lands of the Sulaym above
El-Suwarkiyyah.
Ethnologically considered, the lower Wady Hamz is now the
Bouthem bnundary of the Balawiyyah (Baliyy t'ountry), and the
northern limit of the Jabaniyyah or Juhaynah-land, the latter
popularly doscribeil as stretching rlown const to Wady Burmah,
one march beyond Yambii' (V). Higher up it belongs to the
"Alaydan-'Aiiezahs under Shaykh MutUik — these were the
Be<ltt\vin who, duriug our stay at the port, brought their
caravHD to El-Wijh. Jioth tribes are uusale, and they will wax
worse as they go south. Yet there is no difficulty in travelling
up the Hamz, at least for those who c:m aftord money and
time to engage the escort of Shaykh Muthik. A deluy of
twelve days to a fortnight would be necessary, and common
prudence would suggest the normal precaution of detaining one
of his Alaydiuis as hostage in the seaboard settlement, Wallin
docs not mention this clan ; be writes only the Wuld Sulaymau ;
the lii.shr and the Wuld 'Ali; who, with their chief sept, the
Beni \\'ahab, occupy the country between Ilijr, Tabiik, 'I'aymd
and Khayltar. ^Vater is to h*^ found almost the whole way,*
and the usual provisions ai'e to be bought at certain places.
I
* From '11a to Taymiii, meaning a M^litude or deaert, 2J days in a north-
etistcrly diicctton, there is said to be no water, except in rain-pools mid cistema.
■
140 BunTOH'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Alidian,
The following notes iipou the ruins of the Wady Hamz were
supplied to me by the lialiyy Bedawin, and the citizens of El-
W'ijlj. Six stages up the "luwer valley, whose direction lies
nearly north-oast, lead to El-'rid(N\^),WalIin'8 "Ela," Niebuhr's
'Ola, and Burckhardt's El 011a. TLe place, which belongs to the
'i\_uezahs, is described as resenabling Tabiik on a small scale,
many of the pouplo being mulattos wlio trade with El-Wijh,
El-]iledinah, and Yaiiibu'. According to Ahmed el-lHmishkf
(Akhhar eI-J)unal, the "Notices of Kingdoms,"* finished in
A.H. 1U08 = A.D. l.'JJijl), it is a village im the Syrian pilgrim-
road, five days' march from El-3Iedinah, and situate in a wady
possessing date-plantations, and a spring of running water.
Now, however, the highway runs about (i hours ( = 18 miles)
to the north-east of tlie settlement. Bnrckhardt {loc. cit.^
Appendix iii. p. IJ(JO) notices only " its rivulet and agreeable
gardens of fruit-trees,"
From El-'Ilil a short day to the north, with easting, places
the traveller at E[-IIijr on Madaiu (not Madyan nor Mediuat)
tSalih, the fourth pilgrim-station from Tabiik. The site of tho
city is described to be somewhat oft' tin? main valley, which is
heio broken by a"Nnkb " (?); and those who have visited kith,
4loeliire that it exactly resembles Nnbatha?un Magli^ir i^hu'ayb
in I'Stcnsive ruins and catacombs covering tlie hill-sides. The
naine Madaiu (** cities") is a plural of Midyan, more commonly
Muilmali- not a dual as some travellers make it; and it re-
miuds us of the title given by Mesopotamiau Arabs to the twin
settlements Madiiin el-Kisra (the cities of Chosroes), Seleucia
and Ctesipbon on Ti;j;ris' banks.
Ali^o called El-Hijr, this city is made by Spreuger (p. 20) the
cupiliil of "i'hanuulitis. The latter province was the head-
quarters of the giant race called the '* Sous of Anak " (Joshua
xi. 21); the Thamudeid and Thamud/e of Agarthfirkidea and
Dioilorus; the Tamudiei of Pliny; the Tbamydita; of I'tolemy,
and the Arabian Tamiid (Than>iid) who, extinct before the origin
of El-Islam, occupied tho seaboard between El-Muvvaylah and
El-Wijh. Their great centre wa^^, I have shown, the plain
El-Baila, and they were destroyed by a mysterious and terrible
vox h-om heaven, the Belh-Kol of the Hebrews, after sinfully
slaughtering the miraculously-produced camel of E!-Salih,t the
lughteous Prophet ( Koran, cap. vii.). The exploration of 'SSalih's
• In the "Note* to Dr. WaUin'« Boute in North Anihia." ' Journol R. G. S.'
vol. XX. p. H-13, the title is tninslatcd ' Thr History of the C!iatigi?s fif Fortune.'
t Pfof. Pahner (Joe. cit. p. 5!i)** fancies,' and with cunaidt'inlilu power of fancy,
that "wo may recognise in tbo tradition '^of the she-cumfl pnxiuivil from tho
rock) a diatortid nukiuiaccnce of Itio hbtory of tlio Ii«rLioltti:ili law-givc-r Limaclf."
BurtonV Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian, 141
cities " will bo valuable if it lead to the collection of inscriptions
BTifiii'iently numerous tfi fletermine wb^lher the Taraiid wore
£domites or kin to the Edomites ; also, wliich of the two races
is the more ancient, the llorites of Idiimsea, or the Horites of
El-Hijr.
Between the " Palace" and the sea, tho Wady Hamz is liberally
supplied with water: the whole vein [Thalweg) subtending the
left bank would yield to tupping. Tlio well " EI-Kusayr/' jnst
below the ruin, contained till late years a large quantity: about
half a mile to the westward is, or rather was, a saltish " Hiifrah "
surrounded by four sweet pits. Almost all are now dry and
filled up with fuel. A sharp walk of 45 minutes leads to the
Bir el-Gurnah (j^ 'iV or "Well of the Comer," in a district
of the same name lyinp: between the ruin and the shore. It is
a great gash in the sandy bod ; the taste of the turbid produce
is distinctly sulphurous ; and my old white mule stedfastly re-
fused to touch it. The distinct voice of the lied Sea told ua
that its shores were not more than a mile distant.
From the well wo struck north-rjast over the Sabkhah, or
salt maritime plain, white with efliorescence ; grey where dry,
and chocolate-coloured where damp. Hard on our right was
the well-wooded Wady el-Ziihayr ( g_,^^), which flows to the
sea united with its northern neighbour Wady el-Marrah. To
the left was a sand-strip profusely ^'rown with the piidv and white
fiea-lavendor (Skdice), and with clumps of the salsolaceous tree,
enjoyed by camels : the Arabs call it Shord, or Ishrirah
(^ . *\); and here, like the African mangrove, it forms
regular " forests of the sea." We then entered the fine Wady
Umm Gilifayn ( ^.^y y^ ). which rises from the seaward
base of the Aba 'l-Marii hills and Idlloeks; and whose mouth
has a good Marsa (anchorage-place) for native craft. North
of it, and about 2 miles uiland, rises the Tuwayyil el-Kibrit,
the third or southern sulphur-hill before alluded to.* The
Secondary formations and the conglomerates of the adjoining
cliffs and hills take all shades of colour, marvellous to behold
wlien the mirage raises to giant heights the coast-banks patched
with pink, red, mauve, and dark brown. Here, too, are the
quarries of mottled alabaster which yielded material for the
" Palace." jVmong the many thorn-trees of the wady we saw
Bereral small troops of gazelles.
• Part 111. sect. ii.
After riding 2 Lours 40 mmutcs ( = 8 miles), we entered a
safe gor^e, rlniiniujr a dull-looking uupromising block, the hills
of Aba l-Marii. A\^g at once found in situ cbalcedony-agate
■which strews the seaboard flat. The veins, varying in thick-
ness from an inch to several feet, and mostly striking east-west,
overlie the grey granite and underlie the supcriicial strata of
schistose gneiss. The latter, comprising the greater jiart of
these hilts, is striped and banded yellow and dark brown ; and,
in places, it looks exactly like rotten wood. A small specimen
of chalcedony in my private collection was examined at Trieste,
and contained dendritic gold, visible to the naked eye. Un-
fortunately M. Marie, the engineer, had neglected this most
important rock ; and onlv a few ounces of it, instead of as
many tons, were brought back for assay.
A short and easy ascent led to a little counterslope, the
Magrah Mujayrah ( ^ ^_J^.,^ ^ Ju<i)> whose whitening sides
announced quartz. We rode down towards a granitic island
where the bed months into the broad Wady Hismah ( \^. ,^)i
a feeder of the Wady 'Argah («it.^ ^)- Here after 3 hours
10 minutes ( = 10 miles) from the well, Nagi, the guide, who
thus far liad been very misty in the matter of direction, sud-
denly halted, and pointing to the left bank of the "Magrah,"
exclaimed in his showman style, " Behold Aba 'l-Marii I" (the
" Father of Quartz"). It was another surprise and our last, this
snowy reef with jagged crest, at least 500 yards long, forming
the finest display of an exposed Jilo7i we had yet seen ; but the
first glance told us that it had been worked.
• The caravan did not come in till very late : the guides
having taken the wrong pass down the Wady Mismfxh. My first
step was to cimucct our site with the Uniui cl-Kurayiit ; and
at 11. Ho A.M. Lieut*. Amir and Yusuf were despatched on
dromedaries under charge of 'Abilulluh the mulatto. They rode
down the Wady Misraab lor a few yards, to the mouths of the
Wady [Musjiymit " Khuwaysbab (^> ^^;^ ij;,.^^-**--^) ^^^ ^®
Wady Musaymit el-'Atd, till they entered the Wady el-'Argah
ruiming ' nearly north (330^ mag.). On its left bank they
found a large vein of quartz ; and in a total of 1 hour 30
minutes '( = 6 miles) they reached the ruins of the Mjini el-
Khaur el-Kibli. also on the loft side. This dependency of
TJmm el-Karayat bears nearly due south (340° mag.) from the
• Otbera prauoonce the word ** Muaaymiyyut ."
Burton's Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Mid tan. 143
pit and walls visited by Lieut. Amir on March 30tli ; the in-
terval between tiie two being about 4 miles. Lying to the
N.N.w. of our camp, the atelier showed two larger lieaps of
quartz to the north and tf) the south-etist of the irregular
triangle of ruins, whose blunted apex faced north. To the
south-east an irregular Fahr (^•^), or pit, in the Mard«
leads to a number of Httle tunnels and naileries.
When the violent dusty wester, a sea-breeze which had nearly
blown down our big tent, and which made tiie vegetsition look
dead as chaff and timber, bad somewbat subsided, wc sidlied
forth to study the quartz-reef. It is the normal v<;m, in grey
granite, ninning south-north, and falling, in the latter direction,
to the valley-plain. Here is a email wiiite outlier, where the
quarrymen were ordered to spring a couple of " lagham "
(mines) ; but the snowy stone looks barren. Proceeding north-
wards the vein disappears below tbe surface, rising in Jilds
upon the farther side of the W. Mismah. 'j'he dip is to the
east, where a huge strew of ore-mass and rubbish covers the
slope that serves as baa© to the porpemlicular reef. The Negro-
quartz, which must have formed half the thickness, had been
carried bodily away : if anything has been left for [losterity it
lies below ground. Not the least curious part of this outcrop
is the black thread of iron silicate which, broken in places,
subtends it to the east. Some specimens have goodos yiehling
brown powder, and venous cavities lined with botryoidal quartz
of amethystine tinge. In other parts of the hills we found,
running along the (inartz, double as well as single lines of this
material, which looked uncommonly like clay.
Continuiug our walk up the " Magrah," we hit upon a
variety of quartz-veins, showing the same strike as the monster
below. Returning to camp we ascended the Wady Mismah to
the east, and inspected the ruins of a large settlement, which
extended right across the big Fiumara, and up a minor feature
on the southern or left bank. As the guides seemed to ignore
its existence, I took the liberty ot naming it " Khariibat Aba
'l-Marii" ; and next morning the two Lieutenants were left to
survey it. Some of the niins are on a large scale ; and one
square measured 20 yards. Here the solo peculiarity was the
careful mining of a granitic hill on the southern bank. The
whole vein of negro and white quartz had been cut out on the
northern, southern, and western flanks, .suggesting the idea
of catacombs ; farther west another excavation i»f the same
kind of rock was probably tbe town-quarry. Again, do^Mi the
watercourse a .clump of smaller remains is reported on the left
bank.
•
144 Burton** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
Here I would place the Moyoypa (Mdelmura), which Ptolemy
locates in n. lat. 24^ 30' instead of about N. lat. 20" ; and here,
assuredly, is the famous miue railed by the medifeval Arab
geographers, EI-I\Iarwah or Zii 'i-^farwah. P'rom EI-]\Iiikad-
dasi* (vol. i. p. 101) we learn *' between Yambii' and EI-
Marwab are mines of gold." He adds in his Itinerary (I. 107)
tlie followinw' roiite-clirections. "And thou takost from El-
Badrt to El- Yatnbu 2 Ktai^es ; thenee to the Ras el'-Ayu (?) %
1 stage : again to the Ma'dan (the Mine, i.e. of Culd) 1 staire :
and lastly to El-JMarwah 2 stages. And tijou takest from El-Badr
to El- Jar § I stage, thence to El-Jahfah (jsji^^A.'') ^^ to ^l-
Yamhii' 2 stages each. And thou takest from El-Jiddah
(Jeddah) to El-Jar or to El-Siu-rayu (?) 4 stages each. And
tliou takest from El-Yasrib (Jatiippa, now El-Medinah) to
Kl-Suwaydiyyah (?) or to Ratn el-Xakhil (?) 2 stages each ;
and from El-Suwaydiyyah to El-Marwah are equal distance
{i.e. 4 marches) ; and from the Batu el-Nakhil to the mine of
silver, a similar distance. And if thou seek the Jiiddat Misr,||
then take from El-Marwah to El-SukyaH (l ,o^ H ; and
thence to Badii Ya'kiib 3 marches ;** and thence to El-
'Aum'd (oJjfci:)tt 1 march." Hence Spreuger would place
'An 1-]\rarwah "four days from El-Hijr on the western road to
Medina ;" alluding to the western lino from Syria, now disused.
It ran between the Wady el-Kura ( ^ ^), that is, El-Hijr, alias
Madain Siilih and El-Medtnah. The modem line of El-Hijr
runs farther east, about 15 miles from Khaybar.
We have now seen, lying within short distances, three several
quartz-fields known as : L Marwah, i.e. the single bit or hill of
*• Maru " (quartz). 2. Marwdt (in the plural), the places of
"i^Iaru," and 3. AM 1-Marii the "Father of Jlani^' ; not to
* Tho passage v,aa copied for mo by my learned friend the Aulio Oouudllor,
Bitter Alfred von Kretni'x.
t EI-Badr. meaning the " fnll moon," is a common nRme of Arab si^ttlementa.
Thftt in the tejtt liea on the western or maritime roftd between Mcccah and Kl-
Medinah; it is oelebratod for the Apostolic battle which took place tbero in
A.H. 2.
X TliG namos marked with interrogutions are unknown to the Arabs whom I
consulted : they are [irolably obsolete.
§ Identified by Niebuhr and Wellstctl with certain ruina sontb of Yambif.
See ' The Land of Midinii (EoTieiteil),' chap. iv.
II Mianing the straight [mtb, the highway to Egypt or Cairo, via Suez and the
old railway line.
% Elaewhtre called Sokyat-Yezfd, a name now forgotten.
** As has been eaid, tho Patriarch has fallen into oblivion. See part III. Bcct iv.
ft See part III, sect. i.
Jl.
BCBTON** Itineraries of the Second Expedition into 3Iidian. 145
speak of a Nahh Aim Marwali furtlior north, or of a multitude
of outcrops locally termed "Jebcd el-Ma rii": "Jeltel el-Abyaz/'
and so forth. The conolusioa forced itself upon me that the cele»
brated Arab gold mine, El-B[ar\vah or Zu 1 -Marwali, apj)lied to
a whole district in Houth Midian ; and then came to denote the
chief place and centre of work. To judge from the extent
of the ruins and the signs of labourj this focus was at Umm
el-Kaniyat, the '' Mother of the Villaj^es," which, as has been
shown, is surrounded by a multitude of miner-towns and ateliers.
And the produce of the "diggings" would naturally gravitate
to El-Bada, the great commercial station upon the Kabathroan
" overland " and highway.
Thas El-Marwah would signify the **Hill of Mani" or
** Quartz-land "; even as Opliir means " Red-land." A re-
viewer of my first book on Miuiau objects to the latter derivation,
"as Seetzeu, among others, has conclusively shown that Ophir,
the tnie translation of wliich is * Riches/ is to bo loolced for in
SonthcTn Arabia," I question the "true translation"; and,
whilst owniog that one of the many Ophirs, or Red-lands, lay
in the modern Yemen, somewhere between Sheba (Saba) and
Ilavilah (Khauldn), I see no reason for concluding that this
was the only Ophir. Had it been a single large emporium ou
the Red Sea, which collected the produce of Arabia and the
exports of India and of West Africa, the traditional site could
hardly have escaped the notice of the enquiring Ai-abian geo-
graphers- The ruins of the port would have remained, and wo
should not be compelled theoretically to postulate its existeuee.
VIL Return to El-Wijh. — We had done our work, "and
now the bills stretch home." Nothing rctnained but to escape
as quickly as possible from the ugly Wady Mismah, with its
violent dusty gale, and its blinding glare, reflected and re-
verberated by the snowy quartz. The last of our marches
was on : —
April 10. — The camelmen, reckless of orders, began to load
and shp away shortly after midnight ; even the bugler sonnded
the reveilU of his own accord. M&I. Liieaze and Philipin were
sent by the round road, via the inland fort, which adiled 1 hour
30 minutes to thL^ir hibonr ; a guide was directed to accompany
them, but all shirked the task. Even the mules, now become
terribly intelligent, seemed to guess that they were going home-
wards. In fact it was a general sauve qui pent. The caravan
had been marching only 13 days, and yet it was like a herd of
asses returning to the stall and stable. ' Setting out at 445 a.m.,
we took the medial lino between the inland route and the
iSecondaries and the conglomerates of the coast, where I^icut.
Yusuf had surveyed the route. Descending the Wadya Mismali
VUL. XLIX. L
lAi
146 Bubton'* Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Alidian.
and Musayinit, after 1 hour 15 minutes ( = 5 miles), we crossed
the bead of the Wady el-'Argnh. Lower down this bed, and on the
north-east side of a hill fueiiiy the valtey, the detachment under
M. Marie had come upon a rock scrawled over with the normal
religious formulm in a comparatively modem Arabic character.
The inscriptions lie at some distance to the left of the shore-
road and to the right of the pilgrira-lagh way, thus showing that
minerfi, not passing travellers, have here left their marK. I
did not think them worth a visit.
We now traversed the mid-viilleyf, whose upper courses had
become familiar to us : here the exceedingly broad beds were
divided by the usual long lines and waves of Nature-metalled
ground. The line was one mass of quartz in veins and scatters
proceeding from the hills to the right and left. The principal
lieighta ore the Jebels Ei-Misayk (i^<C .. ^), " of hard waterless
ground;" El-Fishaykh (y * u) : El-KLardwah GJ^); and
El-Hashiraah further east. In fact the whole world was
white as we had seen it at the " Divide of the Ram ;" and it
surprised not a little those who, haring travelled along the
coast, never suspected the existence of quartz. Presently on
our left rose the Hamfrat Htibbdn,* a Mismar (*' nail "), as the
Arabs call theso detached laioba. According to Lieut. Yusuf^s
plan it gives birth to the Wadys Habban, Habibayn, Abii
Markhah, Abii Mardkhah and Abu Ytibit. To the north-east of
this red hutte are the Jebel and Wady E!-Kurr,'the latter an old
acquaintance. Then come successively the Wady Uabibayn
(/.t-ww-*a»)j ^vhich anastomoses with the Wady Abd Markhal^
(*!s^ ^) ; the small Abii Yabit \^J^j\j) j and another familiar
form, the huge Wady El-Miyah, whicb has a brackish well near
the sea.
Presently appeared on the left the second of the Hamfrahs, a
granite mass somewhat resembling those which we had noticed
m the Wady El-Wijh ; it is distinguished as the " Hamirat el-
Nabwah" (^^*); we then suddenly began to tread upon the
Secondary formation of the shore-Hne. After quitting the Wady
el-Mukhayt Oa^^]^), and leanug eastward the third *'Ha-
mi'rab," El-Snrrah (^ ^), we entered the great Wady Surrah.
* WoUsteil (ii. 1D4) speaks of Iho "Shivrni 'AVbdn (for Udbbtin) as a good and
innd-locktHl oDchorugo for tLroo or ibur vesauls, lying oaat of Murduimh Island.
BoRTON'a Itineraries of the Second Expedition into Midian.
This feature is described by the Arabs as draininfj thellainiratayn,
or "Two Reds" (Nos. 2 and 3). Its proper and direct month
would be the WadyEl-Ga'h(j^!3 = Kah, /.e. the hall) ; but it
winds northwards and forms the Mellahah, or Salina.
Our last stage ended Impjnly. At 10.15 a.m., after riding
5 hours 30 minutes (= 17 miles), we found ourselves once more
upon the seaboaixl. Onr kind host, Captain Hasan Bey, com-
manding the Sinndr, came out to meet us in his gig. The
quarter-deck was dressed with flaga as for a ball ; and, before
twelve l>ells had struck, we had applied ourselves to an excellent
breakfast iu the gunroom of our old lodgings.
We had left the Sliarm Yiiharr on March 21, and returned to
it on April 13, a total of 34 days. The actual march through
South Hiidian, which had lasted 13 days (March 29-ApTil 10),
described a semicircle with El-Wijh about the middle of the
chord. The length is represented by 170 miles iu round
numbers; as usual, this does not include the various offsets and
the by'paths explored by the merabers ; nor do the voyages to
El-Wijh and El-Haura, going and coming, figure in the hne of
route. The number of camels varied from 58 to 64, when
specimens were forwarded to the harbour town. The expendi-
ture amounted to 92?. I'Sa., including pay and " backhshish " to
the Baliyy Shaykhs.
CONCLUSTON.
I shall hurry over our last proceedings in Arabia, which have
no geogi'apbical interest. We tarried at El-Wiih long enough
to pay our debts and sliip the men, mules, and the material
collected on the southern march. The venerable 'Afndn and
his Baliyy were not difficult to deal with ; and they went their
way homewards fully contente<l We exchanged a friendly
adieu, or rather an aw revolr, with our travelling companion
^Mohammed Shabadah, ex-Wakil of El-Wijh ; and I expressed
my sincere hopes to find him, at no distant time, Grovernor
of the restored Quarantine Station.
On the morning of April 12 we set out early, and passed the
night in one of the snug bays of Jebel Nu'man. The next day
E laced ns at Sharm YaLuirr, where the process of general distri-
ution happily ended. Shuykh Furay] at once set out to rejoin
liis tribe up the country ; while the Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahim
gallantly stayed with us till the end. These men had become
friends ; and our sorrow at parting with them was softened only
by the ]5rosi)ects of presently seeing them again.
The Expedition in its urgent desire to return northwards was
not seconded by weather. Despite an ugly gale, the Sinmr
L 2
boldly attempted giving; tlie slip to Arabiii, on April 16 ; but
she was beaten back before she roacbed El-lluwaylab. ^Vfter
another stormy day, we nf^am got up steam, and, lighting hard.
aL'ainst adverse winds and waves, we reached Suez on April 20.
The followin",' list of stations between El-'xVkabah and El-
llaura, our fxirthest northern and southern paints, is taken
from the 'lloute of the Pilgrims from Cairo to Jleccah,' p. 541
of the Jihan-nnma, or Spentlum Mundi. The author was Haji
KhuliTah, wliom Joseph Hammer ('Aneient Alphabets,' &c.,
I.omloii, Nicol, ISUlJ) eulls " Chalabizaade Ha<lshi (Hiiji) Khalfa,
encyelopa'dist and biblio^jrapber." He is also known as Katib
Chelebi. He died a.h. 10G8 (= a.d. ItJoS) ; Fliigel adds ia
the month of September.' The chief interest of his itinerary
is that it describes the modem line laid out by 8ultan Selim.
The older route lay further east and inland ; passing via the
Ixoz el-IIannan, Zebayyib (AVady Surr) Tuwayl el-Suk and the
ruins of Shuwak and Shaghab.
" Sat'h el-'Akabah (the plain, or the summit of the ascent ),
i.e. the 'Akabah (ascent) of Allah (Ay lab), where there was
aiieiently a larc;e town, now in ruins. In a low place near it
there is a well lined with stone, tiie water of which is sweet, in
a palm-grove. Ttie Arabs settled there are those of Howeiit^t
(Hu way tat).''
'■The next station oompletes the first quarter of this route.'
Its water is sweet and plentiful. It (i.e. the road) all passes
alonpj the sea-shore. On the left* side is Mount Tor, stretching
out for a space of several miles in extent. In the latter part of
it there are two descents and narrow gorges (boghaz), in which
are pits with wells of sweet water. Thence there is au ascent
to the :—
" Dhahr himar {" Ass's Back "), a rocky acclivity.'' Thence
to;—
" Jurfeiu (« the two Gullies ")} Thence to :—
" Sherfclii Beni 'Atiyeb (" the Turret or Watch-tower of the
Children of 'Atiyeb"), where there is much wood.' Thence
to:—
* The tranBlatioii ia taken from Lieut. WtUsted (toI. ii., Appendix). The few
notes with numerals are my own.
* Tiie " plain " uiludeB to the head of iLu pass ; wliereoa th© ruined town is at
the luoutb of tbo valley bul<;w. Thv "luw ploco" i^s the site of the present
Bfitlemcnt. Pee ' Tbo Laud of Midian (Ruviaited),' eLa[i. vii.
* I.e., from Cairo to Meccali.
* That is, going from Mecwh to Cairo.
' So colled firom a rise in the eoath. Tho modern station id £l-ilagal (Hakl).
tl»e Ancale of Ptnlpmy. Sec chap. viit. loc. cit.
* " Rather the " two Iiigh uullfth-bunka ; " tho place ia generally called Umm
Jarfayn.
' '* Shamf Bcni 'Atiyynb," Ibat ia the bigb-placo of the tribe now called tbo
1
Burton's Itineraries of the Secoiul Expedition into Midian. 149
•* Maililt (" the salt Slonf»h "), between two moiiQtains. Here
is the pcrmanont nliodr^ fit' the Beni Ldni," Theiife to : —
" Magliiirehi Sho'tiib (the Ciivo of Sho'aib, fiither-iii-law of
Moses). There is sweet water ia its pits, a palm-grove, and
many ethl (tamarisk) and mnkl (or iliira) " trees like those that
frtow near the river Nilo.^'' There are here also inscribed tablets
(alwiih = rock-fares) on which the names of ancient kings are
engraven. Theiiee to: —
" Kabr-el-tawdshi (" the Eunuch's Grave ")." Thence to : —
" 'Uyuu Kasab ('' Keed Springs ''). It is a watery, rushy, and
excessively hot valley (waJi). In summer-time many persons
die there sndiJenly.^^ The grave of the chjhlren of Abraham,
near the sea there, is a place of pilgrimage (ziyareh). Thenco
to:—
"Sherra ("a Creek ") near the sea ; on the left of it there is
a mountaifi cullerl Ishiireh (" the Mark ").'^ Thence to : —
" Slowilahh, on the seashore : there is water, but it is ran-
cid.'* Thence to : —
*' Dar Kait-Bi'd (Kait Bai's House), so named from that
sultan having stopped there wlien jieribrming the pilgrimage ;
before tliat they used to stop at Bsitn Kibrit (" Sulphur Belly ").^'^
a narrow, stony place. Thence to : —
Beni Ma'iizah. The site is impiilarly knowra hs El-Bharaf. Caravans bait ut
El-Kijm, the " Heap of Btonc^," iibuiit I hour 30 niiniitea to the aoiith, mid timl
water The 'liatatice to Magbiiir Shu'ayh ia thti iiormul ntngo of 12 alow hours.
* The iiume " Mnlliif is unknown, ftntl tin; Ftt-ni Liim of Miilinn snrvivu only
uil» pruTt-rb Kati'ftt Iteoi' Liiiu (the " Cutting off of Iho Ueui Liim "), said wIimi ii
thing id dean pone. 'I'he trik-, however, in still great and iwfferful in Jltaopo-
tutnia between Bagluhkl untl the Pereina Gulf.
• Cfucifera Thehaica, or bifurcAte piilm, the Palnia Thebaiea of the ancienfa.
'• Alaghiiir is u plural, " caves" (cntacomba). " Mukl " («'-''. bdellium- tree) ia
a wonj unknown to the modern Midiuuites, who eat iho fruit (Wajjul = Wajnl) of
ll>e Pulmn or Cruciffra Thebaicji. Thia fan-palm, when young and busby, is cnllod
Satir ( ,fc<«?)- Id I'll*; Soudan it is one of the inobt neeful of gfrowths, and aupjilic*
everything from tnudals to diiiiking-cups.
" The Eunuch's ^rave ia still eeon ut the head of the Zib& Core. Bee chap. xif.
of the ' Land of Midian (Ktvinitod).*
'- This deacriptioii of 'Ayniinah m not borno ont by the ocwmnts of the Bodawin,
who prai.fo Ixitli its water and its air. Tlio viHitatiuii-pWo tn<<ntion(.>d in the text
ifi wholly forgotten, and tho nojirest s[K3t held holy by thy Araba ia the Goz el-
IIiinniLiii ( the " Moaning Sandhcuj) ") onst of Sharmi. Sec chap. ii. hic- cit. Either
oiiti or b«jth of them may Iiqvo inlitritcd the honours of the aneiout pilgiinaage to
the '' G«d» of the Grovo " (* The Gold Mines of Midian,' p. IH2).
" The Wady and its ruins are called Sharmri, an Arabic word showins; that
the claMiical name ia forgutttu. TJie '^ Aloniitaiti I.^hurah " ia the modern Hhtirr.
tfee chup. xiil.
" Ilciid " unwholesome," fever-breeding.
" The meniory of the Circjuiaiun Maiuliik Fuldan, El-A.4iraf Abii'l-Niisr KiLi'd
Bey td-Ziihiri, wlio, ufter a successful cnuiimign agniu.st the Tujks, made ptaco
with them in a.u. H'JO-91, is now forgotten. The "Sul]iliur-belly," which sliouhl
be rendertti "hollow ln-lov* the sulphur-cone," is our "Sulphur-hill " (Tuwtivyil
cl-Kibnt), ut the head of the Jibbuh Creek, whtro the earavaa uuw encumjjs.
■
i
Expedition into
'< Kabr Sheikh el-Kefafi. Sheikh el-KefaS having been killed
by a 8|)ear, was buried there, and his grave i;j a place of pilgrim-
age.'° Thence to : —
" Azlam (a very smooth Arrow). The second quarter [of the
whole distance] a salt, marshy place^ without any herbage, and
having water which is stilt. Jii the midst of these mountains
there is a desert plain (Sahra). Mecca senna is found here.^^
Thence to : —
" Siraak (Sumach), also called Eakhanin ;^* it is a valley (wadi)
in which there are many thoros. After passing it is : —
"Istabl 'Antar (Antar's Stable), an open plain umtmg the
inountaJua, where Arak [Salnadora Persiea] is found, and on
the borders of it there is 8wcet water,^^ Thence to : —
'• Shereubeh (the thick-pawed Lion),'" a mouutam cape.
Thence to : —
" Wejh (the Fact?) a valley (wadi), in which there are wells
of sweet water. They were reae\ved by Ibrahim rashd, in the
year 1)30 (a.d. 1524), and ai'o supplied by rain and torrents.^*
Thence to: —
'* Bir-el-Kurawi (" Villagers' Well). Thence to :—
"Harireh ('milk Porridge '). Tlience to : —
" Haurd (' the black-eyed Girl ')," where there is water, but
it is bitter."
" Soe chap. lii. ' Midian (EeviMiteiij.' Tho tomb still axisU between Wady
Kifrtfuli (NortJi) tiriil W. Helinii (South).
" From Zibii (Eunucli's Tomb) tlie firBt mnrch is to the Wady Azlam, where a
ruinol fort aad two weila of bniokiali wnkT aro found. See chap. xiv.
>* I^Iity bo the Wady Duklito, or Abii Dukh^, wbidi ooutuins ruinn. Bee
ohnp. xiv.
" The sccouil rampinp-plaee' from Zilri. Tl»it> " wady " dmiita the little Jcbel
'Antur, a ruiigc rising north of tlio gri-rit Jcbcl Libiii (or Libit), and it is toippoeed
to be tlic «ile uf the aucii'ut Khauiiuthoe. Far the errurs uf the Admiralty Chart
BOO chAi>. xir.
»" Humnynit el-Bhununijah (the " Rwl Ilills uf Shurumbdh ") is tlio iiflmc of
certaiu wuterk'«8 hillocks sooth of El-Wijb| here called Wejh.
*• Bee oliap. xvi.
** I cannot uiidtrafand why Prof. Pulmcr (' Do^^rt of the Exrxlus,' p. 319) eaya
that ** Kl-lhiuni " in tliu Negoh had " sdme euch priuiiiry si{fiiilk"iitiou aa City of
Ct*tertn>. Tlie word, whioh ia tho feiuinino of Ahwar, siiiiply tnoatu " Pikgos
Albu.i." Whilhy. Tho Wady el-'Ayn, ia which the caravan camps, flupplies
exooUcut water.
Note. — The map which aoooinpanieR this paper hoa been reduced from the
origianl drnwiug exeeuted by the oflicers of tlio Egyptian Gcneml Stuff cnguged
In tho Survoy of tlie cjuntry ; hut it will \w nntici'd that it diflVrs very ranterially
in Bcvcrul ]dacca from Captain liiirton's Dnrralivc, besidcH l<«ing detlcicut iu
marking many prominent Caatuiea which he deacribea. — W. J. T.
Pakt I. — Lisaa.
Issk of the classical, Lissa of our modern day, to the hia-
torian. perhaps, the most iniportiint, wliilo phyfiiojilly one of the
smallest, itud the westernmost, that is the furthest from land,
of all the main features formiug the Dalmatiati Archipelago,
had again and again tantalised me with a distant view. From
south as well as from north I had sighted the tall *' Monte
Hum" projecting two tongues ejistward and westward; the
former long, the latter short, and both outlined in regidar series
of gentle ('unvexe.s and concaves, domes and breaks, with the
last and lowest sinking below the blue Dalmatian Sea.
Three years, iiowever, passed before September 1876 af-
fordal me tiie opportunity of inspecting the new Vice-Con-
sulate, and the graveyard of our gallant countrymen who fell
iu the naval action of 1811. Jly excellent friend M. Alber,
Kitter von Ghinstiitten, President uf the Maritime Government
at Trieste, an ofjii-ial whose name will ever be remembered on
the Istrian and Dalmatian shores, was sendiug the I. 1{. S. S.
La Pelagosa (Captains Liisina and Zudenigo) with a "Col-
laudo " or coiumissiou to audit the accounts of a uew light-
house; and, as visits to isolated ronks liave tlieir dithculties in
these seas, 1 felt grateful for bis permissi<.>n to Ibrm one of
the party. It consisted of the Councillor Klose ; Cuv. Pietro
Accerboai, I. R. Inspector of Lighthouses on the Austrian
Littoral, and Hcrr Oheringenieur Richard Hani.sch, the Govern-
ment Engineer of the works : with the contractors M. Antonio
Topich and Itis eldest sou JI. Serafino. The " iScietititic Com-
mission " was composed of Dr. Carlo de Marchesetti, Custos
of the Civic Museum, Trieste; and Sig. Michele iStossich, a
student of Natural History, son of the respected Professor of
Botany at the Scuole Reali iu the capital of the "Coast-
land."
On Sept. 22, shortly after midday, when every item of
nature looked its best and brightest, from the clear green of
the shal.jW watem to the deep blue of the sky, we ran past
the two sun-bleached rock-lumpSi known as the "Manzetti"
(bull-calves), and presently found ourselves in the uiagniticent
Porto di San Giorgio di Lissji. where an Englishinun still feels
at home, and where English feeling is wanner than in many
of our colonies. The liarbuur is one of the U^st in the region
of admirable " Zutluchthafens," landlocked and free from rocks
and shoals; easy of access, and extending about one mile deep
by half that average breadth.
■
152
BuBTON*s Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
Ou tlie seftward brow of the nnrtli-western ridge that bcauds
the bay, rises Fort Bcnting* (Bentinck), an artless round
1 tower, lately repaired and resembling its neighbour. Fort
Robertson; both remind us of the engineer's maxim, "small
work, bad work." The latter leada down to the larger square
del'eiice, called by the people Forte di S. Giorgio, and by us
Fort York ; it now serves as a Ciiatello d'acqua (water reservoir) ;
and it can cross fire witli Fort Smith upon the other side of
the harbour-mouth. The Forto veramente teatrale (t'ortis) is
defended to the n.n.w. by a natural breakwater, the Sooglio
"Oste" or "(Jsti," in which we recognise (Commodore Sir
"William) "Boste IsIaLni;"t tho bare and glaring Lit of lime-
stone has chauged its two old Intteries and its ruined barracks
for a trim, new green-capped lighthouse4 Complete defence
against the sea is secured by a i-onky prong projecting from
the eastern jaw of tJie harbour. Here Fort Schmidt (Smith),
backed by Fort Wellington on the ridge-to]i, the most elevated
of the three martcllo- towers built by the English, crosses fire
with Yoti York, and witli two more modem batteries, tiw
Seppurinas (Znparinivs), upper and lower ; the former generally
known as La Munula, after a former Governor-Genend of the
Dalmatian Kingdum. Lis^^a, condemned by the Eeichs Befesti-
mings Commission of 1870, was formerly defended by alHiut a
hundred guns ; all were removed in 1873, and the works aro
made over to a ftnv care-takers.
It ia almost incredible that this western ''Cavalier" of the
bastion of Central Dalmatia between the Rivers Kerka and
Narenta; this natnrnl fortress, distant only 150 direct geo-
graphical miles from Poht, and 130 from Cattaro, communding
the weiiteru terminus of the 3Ioatar-Serajewo-Nisch-Adrianople-
Stambul Line, the inner navigation-canals of the kingdom;
and, itklocd, ihu middle section of tliu AdrJatie Gulf should
thus be abaudoned. Despite the exiimple of the English, who,
in" 1810, thoroughly appreciated its value, the opinion of
Tegetthoff hns })revatlet]. The " Austrian Nelson " held that
the isolated work must fall unless jtrotected by a fleet, and,
therefore, that the latter deserved all his care. tJnder present
circunislanees the peril of inviting hostile occupation is recog-
nised, and Austria j^roiJOses to convert Lissa into a fortress of
tlie second rank, with a circidar tramway ; platforms for guns
• T quote from thf latetst Austrian lijrdrojjmpliic jUBp, 'Kiitrti'iilund, Liaso,
No. 19, tlw HclniiraMo work of my friend the Fregatteu Kuiiiliiii, T. Oeaterreioher,
AufudhmB-Direftor im Johr. 1869.
t Ttjnru is imotlier " Hnstn Island "' near the Tierra del Fuego.
% Not tu be confourrded witli tlie outer lightkousu, irliich we sball pass on oui
way to Polagosa Island.
Burton's Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
153
I
and mortars at the cnicial jwints, and a cistern at each front.
The whole would be supported by a coast-guard of 7 or 8
monitors stationed in Port kS. Giorgio ; and in these days torpe-
do8 will not be forgotten.*
As we steam onwartis we leave to starboard the " Porto
Inglese," covered by its own batteries, and marked by a small
white-washed coal depot. The south-wast end of the port
known as the " .Sttiuza " {8tatio„ i. e. vavalis) forms a " Rlon-
dracchio," dock or inner Imrbour, protected by a sjiit jutting from
the western jaw, the Point of J^. Girolamo. And hero we anchor
ofi* Lis!?a, the city whose age has not yet reached the fourth
century. It is a long narrow lino occupying a ledge faced by the
atill waters, and backed by hills rising some 300 to 700 feet;
the latter are here fawn-grey with stone-heaps collected to
clear the ground; there dark with the scrub of myrtle, janij^er
and terebinth ; aud everywhere dotted with patches of the
carob {CeratontK siliqua), whose deep metallic green is lit up
at this season by points of burning red.t The place, like all
the picturesque island-settlements of its date, wears a distinctly
Venetian aspect ; we see the ex-Queen of the 8ea in its many-
gabled houses of stone and litiic, capped with rusty tiled rools;
its small barretl windows and its huge balc<:tnies supported by
proportionate corbels : a few of the J'ufades are tinted red, but
the blues and yellows of the Dalmatian mainland ajipear not
to be in vogue.
Lissa city falls distinctly into three parts. The easternmost
is the Kut, angle or corner,| which some derive from an English
name — Coutts. It o<jntaius the Palazzo of (he old Venetian
Counts Gariboldi, and the lodgings of the English governor
are still shown: here too is the solid steeple oi' 8, L'ipriano,
which, from a lishermau's cliapel built in the thirteenth or
fourteenth century, became the point of attraction for the new
settlement. '\\\f; Cuukovica gorge, descending from the Alti-
piano, or plateau of the islana, and crossed by a solid single-
arched causeway (P^t od Cuukovica), separates the Kut suburb
from the main body, whicli bears the name of Laha, or the
Bay. The latter hegins with the Batteria Madonna, so called
from the parocbial church whose skeleton belfry suggests peril
Two excellent jiapera by Colonel M-
-, on tho ' StmtegUclio Bcdeutung
von LIkbo,' appeaivHl in the ' FeuiUetoti of the Trieater Z«ituug,' Dtccuilii'T 5-6,
1876.
t The Algorrobo, or Joliaiininbrod, fui the Germiin tiieori«t boldly calls it, ia
about to ba planted in ludiii, where, ii' it flouriiih oa iu Syria, it will bu a Yaluublu
aoquitiitiun.
X Compare the Sonsk. ^7, to moke rtookcd.
of earthquakes : this open work, together with the Wellington
Martello,* did considerable damage to the Italian ironmds,
Formidable, San Martino and Cuateljidardo, armed with 300-
pounders, and compelled them (u retire. The Madonna is now
fronted by a shady Marine Promenade; the normal yellow
yanita (liculth-ollice), bearing the brilliant Austro-Hnngarian
flag, laces the dwarf Mole j and the neat Marina or fjuay of
cut stone is broken witli hmding-steps, and garnished with
cannon to make fast hawsers; the guns of Dubonrdieu'e ship
La Favoriie having thus been utilised. This broad and open
esplanade, the glory of Dalmatian towns, forms a cnrious
contrast with the single longitudinal alley-street and the cross
lanes which certainly were not built to accommodate the coach
and four. The Liika ends at its Castello, a sturdy three-
storied square tower with two angle-turrets or 8eutry-lx>xes
projecting froin the battleniented parapet: once useful to keep
Saracen and Turkish niratt a at bay, it is separated hv a wide,
clear space frum tliu Mala Buuda (Bauda Piccola). 'l\m west-
end occupies the buttom of t lie bay: its main features are the
Chapel of Santo Spirit), the old Government House now
occupied by iti* owner ; tlie furogrouiul of boats in the caiilkers'
hands, and the backgrnuud of tenements creeping up the
Bandarica hill. Ijeyond the western suburb begins the ajiti-
quariun interest of the bay; the Gradiua, or old town (Issa),
which we sludl presently inspect. The island of Lissa, the
Via of the Slavs,! is so rarely mentioned in later works of
English travel that, before proceeding to its antiquities, I aak
leave for a few lines upon its tojtography and its annals. - It is
the westernmost of the great gi'oiip wliich. disposed almost
upon a parallel, cuds the Dahnathin xVrchipehigo to liie situth;
tlie latitude of the a]K'X is ^. 4'.f V 4:3" ; its long. E. (Gr.)
IG' U' 54"; it lits 12 direct geographical miles to tlie south-
west of Lesina, city and island ; otj from the Dalmatian con-
tinent, and do from Monte Gargano- The leugtli from east to
west is 0 miles; the muximum breadth 4, and the circum-
ference about 2'3. The disttibiuinji is into the " Cemcinde *'
,(^Communes) Lissa or Vis, and Comisa or Koniiza, uhnse head-
quarters are united by a good roud, easily covered in 2 hours.
The former contains ii540 souls, of whom 31)13 occupy the
town ;X and the whole island is rated at 8000 : there is a single
• Armed ■willi three (:0-|x>utidt'rs aiifl onn SO-ponndcr mortar.
t VU would menti a hi.-i>^lit or a ui>>iiiit:iin-top: it ia aaotLor iuatiuico of the
corioii» fni-itity witli wiiiclx the Slavs corrupt clasBiciil tt-rms, retaining tba
general form of the origixiul and uddin;: h lucuning of their own.
J The pt'i.plc, always npt to cxaggcrftte in these inntt^rs, pn-fer 4500 for the
capital. I liorriiw my fif;urcii from tlio ' AllcrhochBto KuisiirreUf ' Ac, Vieunot
1875, by ii)y IcajTved friend. Dr. (.rrofegaor) Franz Coglicviua of Chprso.
Burton'* Visit to Lissa and Fdagosa.
Volkschule (Scnola Provinciale) and a Kuiatstatiou (Carate-
Station) at Lissa city.
The shape of tlie island is a long parallelogram witli two
breaksj the Porto di S. Giorgio on the eastern short side, and
the Vallone di Comi'sa, contained between two long prongs
stretching duo west and south-west (mag,) The outcp walls are
stony ridges rising ironi 470 to BIO feet above sea-level and
declining qnaquaversally to the lertile plateau which, averaging
400 feet high, forms the body of the i&land ; the valleys are
rich, but the uphiuds in geneml want water. The necessary is
poorly supplied by a cistern ; the single spring near Comisa is
reported to be brackish. The apex is " Monte Hum,* a bald
and flattened cone, numbering 1868 (Austrian) feet, on the
soullx-west of the itihmd.
The history of Lissa has hardly been treated as it deserves.
About the middle of the last century a litorato belonginf; to
the now extinct house of Caramaueo (Slavice Karamanovieh)
made extensive studies. He fell into bad odour for jiroving,
in a learned dissertation, that the relics of Saint Domnius at
Spalato have no just title to honour; and his manuscripts are
DOW, I am told, scattered amongst the descendants of his tellow-
citizens. In 1772 the Abatts Fortist seems to have found the
Weather too liot fur studying the Yestiijj )niserahili, whilst he
notices at Zara (I, i. § 5, p. 17) three Greek tables from the
island, apj>areutly part of a Fesphisraa, Avith fragments of
the senators' subscriptions. Notes have also been published
by Major Cataliutch, of Zara, in his ' Storiii della Dalmazia,'
and by Professor Weber; but I was unable to lind their works.
The readiest source of information is the * Munuale del Regno
di Dalmazia,' annually published, since 1871, by tSigiior Luigi
Maschek4 Councillor tu tlie Luogotenenza of Zara. He borrows
lar«^ely from the ' Prusfietto Chroiiologico della Storia della
Dalmazia,' and Irom vol. i. of the ' Memoria sulla Dalniuzia,'
by the Aw. V, Lugo. His historical and ebitisticul thitails
concerning the coast and the archipelago will be valued and
acknowledged whi.^n the increased visits of strangers from the
North shall call for a * Handbook of Dalmatia.' Finally, I am
* "Mouto Hum" and our "Mouat Hum" are pleonasms. "Uuiu," literally
a Lillock, ftiul utidcrstooil as Sommila, is Rlmo.st a geiierio nnmo with (.ho Mlyriaii
Blavs, tm Monto Magm'ioro witli the Italinua. Thus, llicro is a ''Hum*' in f^iib-
vioneillo, Let>iniL, Lagustu, Braz/a, Muiiteiie^Tti, uiid other udjoiuiiig |jl*e< 8 Tho
mlgnr somttimca pronounco tho word like " (ihiini," with thu Arahic "Ghayu."
t 1 have uotic*d his uu-ritorious labuura (Viaggio in Daliiiazin) in my jmjitT
on the ' Long Wall of Salona,' 4c^ Aiitiiiop. lu^t., 1875. Ho vroa translated
into English and printed by J. RobBon, MDCCLXXVII., in a folio of 584 pagea;
with the map and illuutrtitiouaof tho original, ami like it, witliout an index. Tho
pagca ia the test refer to the Venotian folio of 3IL1CCLXXIV.
X In my paper on * Baloiia ' (£>. 2Tli), tho Damo wa/i iaiii[>riuted M(t»cheU.
■
assured that the Abate D. Apollonio Zanello, of Bergamascan
family, now of Lissis, a good Latin and Greek scholar, aud a
diligent student, wlioso fortuuo allows him to exchange paro-
cLial for literary labour, is preparing an exhaustive history of
the classical island.
The glorious harbour of refuge, the amenity of the cliniate,
and the fertility of the soil, nmst have attracted immigrants to
Lissa before the dawu of history. Signor Lugo shows that a
colony of Pelasgi, or Archaic Greeks, I'rom iEgeim Issa, or
Isse * (Lesbos), lirst occupied and named the island in memory
of their old homes. Presently uniting with the Liburnians, the
most posverful tribe of the "northern mainland, f anil associating
with the Etruscans of Adria, they called that part of the
Adriatic the Libumian Sea. Its autouomy was subverted by
the Tyrants of Syracuse. About U.c, 402 Diooysius the Elder
occupied it by a colony, and gave it a place in authentic
history. Between b.c, 384 and 380 these newcomeVs threw off
the yoke of the old country ; and. aided by tlie Issan", defeated
the lllyrians, especially the Arditei, whom Strabo § (vii. 5) calls
Vardan, aud Ptolemy (ii. 10, § 8) OvapBatoi; and sliortly after-
wards they founded Epetium {hod. Stobrez), Tragurium (Trau),
and Lissus (Alessio), on the mainlnnd. Uuring the First
Punic Wiir Duillius gained his naval victory with the assistance
of the Liburnhms and of the " Lembi Issaici," manned by a
brave and hardy race of seamen, by no means extinct. In
B.C. 240 Agron, son of Pleuratus, king of the Illyrians, and his
allies the Liburnians, successfully opposed the Is^a-i of Tragu-
rium and Ejietiiim, who attempted to annex the bro4\d lands
boundctl by the Titius Kiver {hod. Kerka) to the north, and by
the Tihinis (Cettina, or Rivt-r of Almissa) to the soutli. He
was, however, unable to subjugate the island which the Pomans,
after conqueiiirg Sicily, in token of gratitude, had taken under
their protection (B.C. 242).
In B.C. 22!) Issa was blockaded by the fleet of Teuta, widow
of Agron, whn governed in the name of her stepson, Piunes,
a minor; and, ten years afterwards, it was occupied by Ueme-
* Stmbo, j. 3. LobIxjs aflerAK^arda tonic the n&ma of Mitylftio from its chief
city, iind retains the word in b comipted form. Tlie oldest name tliUB appears in
Lycopliroa (CufBaadrn, 219-20) : —
'itTirtf fvTtvacu tucfitiir woBTD'i'Djy.
Thus rendered by Job. S<?aliger : —
Atqne utinaui in Isaa te (Prylin) Camillns ineulii
Nun pnxTeassfct, hostinin nojtrutn clucem.
Bee vol, iii. p. 1129. Miiller, Lipsiw. MDCCCXL
t Iviburnia I'Cj^an i^t the Arwia; flurneu (hod. Arsa) of Istria, Qud ended wi
the Rivtr Tiliiis, now tins Kerka of Sctn-nifo.
trins, Tyrant of Pharos, acting in the name of the Dlyrian
queen.* When the latter, beaten by the Great Eepublie,
became a suitor for peace (n.c. 2}d), the Issaji wore freed from
paying tribute to her. They again assisted Itomo in her
struggle witik Philip of Macedon, son of Uometrius (n.c. 200-
197); and, as her friends and allies they retained their auto-
nomy, despite the efforts of Gentius, the last king of lllyris,t
who, in B.C. 167, after a month's war, surrendered himself to
the all-absiirbing llepublic. Is.sa, the city, was an important
place in the days of Csesar, and at that time, as now, the i.sland
had two principal settlements; one bearing its name, and the
other called "Meo," wliieh is probably rejvresented by the
modern Comisa. Finally, in a.d. 42, M. Furius Camilhis
Scribonianus, proclaimed Imperator by the Dalmatians in
opposition to Oiaiidius, but disowned by the legionaries whom
he commanded, took refnge in Issii, where he was killed hy the
soldier Vohiginins, in the arma of Claudia his wife.J For
many a generatiou after that event Issa almost disappears
froni history.
This active alh'ance with the Romans, and perhaps her
excellent growths of wine, recommended Issa to the notice of
the classical poets and geographers. Scylax Caryandensis
(filth century u.C.) mentions "lo-o-o i/f/o-o? koI TroA-ft? *EXXe-
vlBc^ avrai. after <t>dpo<; (cap. x.xiii.). ApoUonius Rhodius
(^ Af>yovavTiKa}if A, ;'>G3-5) writes : —
Tiis 8' diTfkfinov oaai RA;^oiit( irapoi6tv
'K^fiTjt 7r\r)0otrra M0v(ivi&is tlv dXi i^coi
Icrtrii rr AvarKfXaios^ re cat Ififprfj Dtriyfia.
* The four prinoijMil epoolis of Isaan and Liaaan hiatorj, aro —
Ist. The blotkaJu by Quteu Teuta (b,c. ^29).
2mi. Tbc occapation by Di;inetrius of Pharoa (B.a 219).
3rd. The oocufmtioa by Englaad after Uie cxpulaioQ of tho French (a.d.
1812-15;.
4th. The attack of tho ItalinD fleet, which ended in the naval victory of
Austria (Jidy 20, 18GG).
t The hiBtorinn Mr, E. A. Freeman, has adopted tho general opinion thnt the
lUyriana are represented by the jpeople of Albatiin, " one of those iil-fated
portions nf earth," saye Amokl, " which, though placed in imiiiodiate contact with
civilisation, hnj» remained perpetually barburiua."
J It is said that iiia sepulebre wiw found iii 1710 ; but 1 failed to procure any
information nbout it.
§ In my paper on 'Solona' (p. 280), I have mcutioued the nstml interpretation
of At/(rK<'\afios. But may not IIih epithet ''hanh-Bounding" better apply to the
neighbouring Island of Pfdago^a, whotKa roaring and spouting cav*m8 resemble
those of MfKirri {hod. Mi-ledflj? The latter have been the subject of n modem
vohitin', ' Bt'rioht iiber das DetonationB Ph'iDomen anf dcr Insel Mtleda,' &c.,
Ton I'niil Purtach, Wien, Heubner, 1826. In pp. 101-102 the learned author
quotoB fifteen publicationB upfm the enhject : he approves of Horr Littrow, and
he ia aevoro apon Herr Stcrlin. Finally, he adopts the " Einsturz-Hypotesic,"
rooks falling m tho hollow LowoU of the earth, ae the general cau«e of the
my&terioua Bounds.
158 Burton's Visit to Lissa end Pelagosa.
*
Scymnus Chios (Bret century B.C.), in his Tlepit'iyrja-n} (413-14),
makes it the hegemon of the Illyrian Archipelago: —
N^troc icaT avrovs 6 tariv Itr<ra Xryofiivt]
'SvpaKoiriuv f^ovira rfjv njroiKiav,
Strabo (ii. 5 and vii. 7) places it correctly, and mentions its
colony, Tragiirium. Not so Poraponiu.s Mela (ii. 7, Mediter-
rfuiei Maris InBulae), who, nearly a century after the geographer
of Fontus, throws the iVrchinelai^o into complete and inex-
tricahlo confusion,* Pliny (S'at. Hist. iii. 2(5, &c.) correctly
places Issa opposite the mouth of the Iinler, or River of Salona,
and mentions the Issaei and. the Epetinea, "nations inhabiting
the islantls, the former having tho rights of liomun citizens."
In Ptolemy (ii. 1(3, § 14) wc have the following table of lougi-
tades and latitudes : —
Tfj a AaA/MiTif I'^croi irapditfiv rat
Itrmt Kal ir<{X«f . . . Long. Jlji y (4*_'^ 20') . . Lat. Py (43° 15').
Tpayovpwv k. ir. . . „ Jiy (4ct'^) . . „ /ai^ a' ^ (42^ 4o ).
*a/ufl K.TT „ hy ('^3'') . . „ ?^ y (42^ bOf).
YiopKovpa fj fifKatm . „ Jld (44') . . „ Jkt a 6 (41^ 45').
MtXtrtpf) vfitTot . . „ "jld <r' (44'' lO") . . „ fiay' (41' SC),
Here his latitudes are tolerably correct ; whilst he phices
Trieste (Tergestum Colonia) in n, lat. 44^ 55', or nearly one
degree too far south. Issa holds high rank in Agathemerus
(^' AyadTjfiipov TTJ? T€coypcuf>ia<; uTroTinrwcrej? iv iirno^^.
Hndsun's Geog. Script. Gr. Minores), who during our third
century made in two books extracts ifroni Ptolemy and earlier
writers. His words are EtVt Se Kal iv t«5 'ASpw. i>ri<TOL irapa
Tqv 'IWt/p^a, o)U itn<rr}p,6r€po<; \o-<rr}., koi 17 MeX,a(.^ V^opKvpa,
Kal ^dpo^, nal MeXl-n), q>v ayuout ra<; Trepifiirpovs BIBA. A'.
ir€<f). €, p. 15G, Xv\XoyT)<;, &c., by the Brothers Zozimas, Vienna,
Anz.
Issa, I have said, t almost disapi>ears from history after the
death of Scribonianus. She was alternately Romau, Byzantine,
and autonomous. As Salona and the lowland cities of Dalmatin,
the extensive commerce and navigation of the Archipelago
must have snflfered severely from the invasions of barbarous
* I[is order, or rather disorder, is Apenros (Ossero, Obeirao, Liustn lelAud),
Dy8Colndo»(Liiw»? Pelagnwa? Brezza?); Af*yTti8(Unie? Pago? oomporu 8lrabo
ii. 5),IjBia; Pityia (PityTuta or Porti3 Tolon, Suiito Andrea?): Hyurift (?), tlio
Bleotridm (cf. Pliny, iii. 3<1: wLiJo Blrabo. v. 1, donius thi'ir existciicMi nff the
month of tho Po) ; Nip^ra Corcyro (Cuziola); Tragurium (Trau); iJioniediii
^Ihe Tromiti) ; (E«triu (?) ; Suoa (Bttaeno, SoaIdo, Biuonn or Basso off titc coast
of Albania) ; and. finnUy, returning ttom south to north, rharoa (Lcsina), which is
described as " adjoining Brundusium even a« another (of the same name) lloa
near Alexandria."
t Thoae notes on the history of Liasa In tho dark ages aro taknn bodily from
M. Maachftk ({oc, cU,).
Lonles, the Ostrogoths (a. D. 393), and the Visogoths (a.d. 395);
and, pei-hapa, not less from the m^e of monachiHrn introducer!
by tho example of Saint Jerome (ob. a.d. 420) the Dalmatian.
About A.D. 449, the Bosuiac Slavs, driven by the Huns
westward from the Danube, occupied the isliind ; hence the
Slav iniieiTation of the present race. They were followed
by another " Tempest of the Tribes," as Jomandes calls it ;
incursions of the Vandals, the »Sarmatse (a.d. 457), the Suevi,
tJie Heruli, the Avars (a.d. 010), and the Croato-Serb!=i in
AJ). G4(,). About the middle of the seventh century, the island,
now Slavic, belonged to the empire of the East, as the Teutons
to that of the West ; and the cession of Dalmatia, by Carolus
Magnus, to Byzantium in A.D. 808 confirmed its position.
But darker days were in store for it, and nothing can be
more dreary or monotonous than its history : indeed the same
may be said of mediaeval Dalmatia in general. Between
A.D. 837-8C4, the iNarentnn pirates became tho pest of the
Adriatic : they made themselves the Maximi Ven^toruui emnli ;
they did muck harm to tot popuUs Sclavonic nosirie, and they
retained possossion of the islands for a century. In a.d. 867
came the Saracens, then apparently in league with their follow
thieves.
In the tenth century Venice determined to crush her piratical
enemies, and bo^r Admiral, Bragadin, recovered Lissa from the
Narentans (a.d. 996). Probably at this time, its darkest hour,
the classical city became a ruin, and the inhabitants exchanged
the coast for the interior, where they occupied detached villages.
In A.D. 1075, the Doge Domenieo Silvio utterly destroyed tho
Normanno-Narentan fleet, with all their works and establish-
ments upon our island. About the same time Zvonimir-
Demetrius, King of Croatia, permitted Lisfsa, like Brazza aud
Lesina, freely to trade with his dominions. Venice, all
powerful in a.d. 1143, allowed in a.d. 1184 her rival Eagusa to
supplant her in the protectortite of the i3land,and, in a.d. 1242,
the Commune of Lesina began to exercise a jurisdiction which
lasted till late years. In 1278 (April 1), Lissa and Lesina,
suffering from the pirates of Almissa, applie<i once more to
Venice, who incontinently occupied the two : each was ruled by
its own Provveditore, suujett to the Provveditore Generale of
Zara.
The descendants of the old Isstei, driven from the dangerous
coast to the interior, held in the fifteenth century their capital
at Velo-SeJo,* the Great Village, in contradistinction to the
* In BuBsia we find the same word, as in T3arkoo-8«Io. But the northern
dialect, whose ncccnts, irregularly <ibtribnt"?d, form one of its diGSinilties, places
the ictna on tho ultimate vowel (Selo^, wtulei the lUyrians and tlie 81oTcnc«,
minor settlements. Lpng south of the new city» and north of
a line upland plateau rich in vines, it appears ujwn llie map as
Sventinovich, a mere corruption of Svettinj, the P. N. of the
present proprietors, who* iu Dahuatia aa in Istria, often give
names to the viihxjres. The only roinnant of this rustic capital
is the chapel of the Gospa od Veloga (La Madonna del Villngio
Grande). VrIo-ScIo waa destroyed in a.d. 1483, hy Ferdinand
of Naples, and again in a.d. 1571, by the Catalonians and the
Turks, under Sultan Sulaymau III. The people have preserved
the memory of the Ottoman liaid in their ''Pisma" or songs
accompanied by the single-stringed " gviale" or the three-stringed
" Lira. ' As these hereditary legends are fast fading into
oblivion, I may be allowed to quote a specimen.
Kukuriku Velo-Selo ;
Do tri danka no veselo ;
Doci Turci, Katalaui,
Oatadeto svi pokhini.
These rhymed hectasyllabtcs* may thus be rendered : —
Aroiisc tlice, Old-Town !
WitLiii three (l.iys, to thy sorrow,
Come the Turks ami the Catalins.
All (of you) will be massacred.
'' The song, which has some eighty stanzas, and which shows
undying hate of the Turk, refers to the " atrocities " of the day
when, after vainly attaclcing Cuzzola Island, on the Fete of the
Assumption (xVugust 15, N.S.), 1571, the barbarians, headed by
their Capodan, "Uluzali," fell upon Lissa, whose two wealthy
and popiuous burghs were entirely unprepared ; and slaughtereil
the inhabitants of Velo-Selo, The words are supposed to be
.spoken hy a cock which, standing upon the belfrj'-top of the
Miulouna Chapel, vainly warned the citizens of the horrors
which awaited them.
The well-known volume of the Abate Kacio Miosic (Razgovor
Ugodni Narodu Slovinskoga, &c. Po Fra And. Kaficher Mios-
sichiu : U Dubrovniku. Po Pet. Franeu Martecchini, Edit.
of Kagusa, 1 vol. folio, 1801), also recounts, p. 177, the glorious
defence of the Cuzzolans and of their leader Pomenic. The
following three stanzas refer to Lissa ; and the old etymology
is preserved : —
Zajceedri novenselli Tiirzi
Katalani nevinji Ajdnzci
Prija zozeh k' Visu dojalrisce
Tcr bo2ato sello porahisce
jjosaiUy ftffcctod by tbe Italians, preftr aa a rule Hip penultimate (8€lo). Tbii»
our captain's nnme is Lilsina in 81av, LuBiiiu in Italinn.
• Whereas tbe old heroic songs of tbo MorlakB arc mostly in blank decn-
BvlIabicB.
BuBTON'tf Tisit to Ltssa and Pdagosa. 1 C 1
Issikowe maloh i velliko
Jer 96 turkom modadoiice uikko
Eakoaeje onda rauellilo
Ni danasse nijo naaellilo
Tub bih turkom pozlnchienn Bada
Pak odoBce de Htarogagrada
(Jtide ttirci mallo zndobisce
Vedi Varbofiku sello jxjrobisco
Thus translated by Sig. Serafino Topicb, to whose kindness I
owe the loan of the volume.
Discontented went off the Turks, (and)
The Catalans, faitliless Hayduks (i>. bandits) :
Before daybreak at Vis (i.«. Lissa) they arrived,
That wealthy HCttlement eackiug.
They cut to pieces sniall and great (».e. young and old),
These Ix'ing wholly unprc|iared ;
Th« masssacre was so complete
Tlmt, antil this day, it (the town) has not been ro-pcopled.
There the Turk* collected enormous booty, (and)
Thence they went to Citta Vccclkia (Stara-^rad in Lesina) ;
Where the Turks littk aiuld rob.
Yet they plundered Verboska village.
Shortly after this last event, tlie Lissans returned to the sea-
l)oard, and built the Borgo, which has, therefore, no pretensions
to antiquity.
In the early years of the present centurj', when Europe had
not renounced giving " letters of marque and reprisal," the re^
strictions to which foreign trade was subjeck-d by Napoleon 1.
produced an immense contraband along the Dalmatian coast
iind Arcliipelugo. Lissa, then autonomuus, ouce more became
the favourite rendezvous of privateera who differed little
from pirates, and was partisdly occupied by Ku^sia. The
demand for British produce and the central position of the
island invited England to muke it the centre of her naval and
roinniercial operations in tlie Adriatic. She delcated the
French squadron on March 13, 1811, and, on April 25 of
the next year, she took permauent i>osses.siun, establishiug at
the same time a local legislative body. On July 13, 1815,
the English cvaiMiatcd Lissa and the other islands, and, on the
general Peace, these passed under the dominion of Austria,
who, in 1848, abuliftihcd th« invidious jurisiliction of Lesina.
Finally the Ituliun Hwt attacked the island on July 18, 1866,
an<l two days afterwards was decisively defeated.
The actual trade of Lissa is chiefly contained in wine-growing
and tishing. During my visit the city was literally red with
tlie blood of the grape, even us Lesina was slippery with oil in
December, 1874. The island maintains the celebrity of which
VOL. XLIX. M
162 Buhton's Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
Atliena3us (Deip. 1) speaks in the third century, 'Ev Se "Ictrfi
rtj Korb. Tov ^Aopiau injay ^ Aya6ap'^iSr)<; <fKurl olvov 'yiveo'dac, ov
•Tract crir/Kpiv6fi€vou KaXXio) €vpic7Kea6ai ; and which was
asserted by placing the grape-buuch upon the coins, Fortis
(1772), opining thut the wiue non i> fjrurt eosa, attributed its
ueficiences to rude workmanship, or to the disappcmrance of the
ancient growth. If this be true, the island has progressed of
late. Her produce is now esteemed, and, whilst want of rain
reduces the growth of grain to a fortnight's supply aud causes
cereals to be brought from Carauiania aod the Black Sea — no
easy matter in 1876* — a fair average season, yields from 70,000
to 80,000 barrels. ^
The vines are trimmed short and supjwrted by forked sticks.
Throughout the Mediterranean regions, the old home of Bucchus,
a glance at a vineyard, its stakes and its espaliers, tells the
observant traveller where he is. The plant will outlast, in
exceptional cases, the centur)', but the usual limits of its life
are twenty-five to thirty years. The invasions of the Oidium
have been met by the sulphur cure :t here the peasants, a
frugal and hardworking race, eagerly adopt the innovations
which benefit them, whereas their congeners of Istria and
Caniiola do not; and there is a noticeable developraeut since
the Islanders were freed from the government of rival Lesina.
This superior intelligence of the peasantry explains the com-
nijinding position of their bit of island, in the days of old, when
their colonies of Tragurium and Epetiura were equally famous
for their wines.
The grape is of eight chief kinds. The fa/iile lyritmeris is the
Vngava, a name of uncertain origin, well known t-o the other
islands. This white berry ripens — or, rather, is gathered — in
mid-August; it is delicate and liable to injury, and, being
dried before crushing, the Eimer or Oma (=56 to 68 litres)
of yield diminishes, in the process of manufacture, to some
9 l>occali (40=1 Orna); hence many proprietors have given
up making it4 This wine when kejit for four or five years is
of superior quality. Next is the Rukalac, also a small sweet
white grape, yielding the *' ^Huscato," or Muscadel \ and ranking
third is the Cerljenak, a red seed. Good average wines are
made of the wliite Balbut, the Kersticevica, the Biela Loza
aud the Palarusa. The cheapest is the Plavae, a dark purple
• Tho oloiinK of thn Blaok Stia ports will i>ro1»a)ily drive tlie txade to the
Unitc<l Stiitos. Tlie briwl is the worst article on LIbsii iBlurid.
t The Islnndere have not yet had au opportunity of experimenting upon tho
lalost treatment by "mnndic wnter," the vitriolic supply of pyritic minoa.
J Thu aamo is the csso with the " Rofosoo d' Isolu, whit-h nijuirca tho g^ropo
to <lry, and all the atalks to be removed : heni-e a couaidembtc diminution.
berry, more pleasing to the eye than to the palate. The peasants
of the interior still trample their produce ; the city uses the
newest presses, and M. Sorufiiio Tupick has fttintied cenolo|^' in
the well-known establishment of Messrs. Clossmanii and Co.,
Bordeaux.
Vine-growing is the work of veterans and eineriti, whu thus
employ the year: in September and Oetober eomes the Vin-
deramia (Vendange), when eveiy able-bodied adult is engaged
in carrying his harvest ; and, at this season, five Jiorins
a-day will hardly bribe a guide to leave his work. The younger
men willingly engage as sailors, ospeoially between November
and Miiy : many have made long voyages, and not a few have
learnt Euglish and other foreign tongues. Fishing, which is
secondary only to wine-makincr, employs the months of April
and May, October and Noveml>er. The principal yield is the
Sardella (Clupea, or Ahjsa aardina), of which during a dark
summery night 00,000, 100,000, and even 150,000 head have
been taken by a single boat. A poor year proiUiees from S 100
to 15,000 barrels, each weighing between 1>Q and 100 fimti
(1-2 lb. avoir.); in 1875 the yield was about 25,000. The
other species are the Orate (Sixirus aurata), and the Dontali
(Dentex vulgaris) which, caught in Aviuter, used to be prepared
with gelatine for the Venetian market ; the Sgombri {Scomber
scomhn(s), and the Branzino (Lnhrax liiptis), which is cauglit
even in jiort. As usual oflf Dalmatia and letria, the Astice
(Ho»iarm vulgaris) is superb ; the poorest meat is the liasa
\Riija, or R. davatu), caught with tho rarrangala, or long line,
carrying 20D to 4U0 hooks. The nets are of two kinds : " La
Tratta" requires three smacks, one leading with a light in
the bows, and the others following with the net. I suggested
for economy of fuel the trial of whito-painted boards used by
the Chinese on moonlit nights. " I/a Voiga," a Dalmatian,
not an Istritui, term, is worked by a single craft with a crew
of five, and only in tho dark. Essentially a rete d'imhrocco,
in Avhich fish enmesh themselves, and a SardelUera (used to
catch sardines and anchovies), it is composed of spedoui, or
square pieces, increased to as many as sixteen if the fish be in
largo shoals, and the depth is regulated according to require-
ments.*
M. Antonio Topieh has received a medal from tho World's
Fair of Vienna for his preserved sardines, anchovies and
mackerels ; Bpecimens have also been sent to the Exhibition of
* Details concerniaj the Istrian fiaheriea will be fuiind in " Im Pi-scn lunpo Jo
Coate Augtro-Ungariche," &c.), Memnrift del CudUj Antonio Mnruzzi, lluma, 187:H),
a largo brochuro. Tla* industry iu Ii'uliiiHtia alBo bug produced ii liUlo volume
published during tho WellausBtellucg of Vienna (IST.S).
M 2
164 BurtonV Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
Philadelphia. He salts tliem to a certain extent, and then
cures tliem with the finest oils: they are packed in tins made
upon the island, with labels from \ ieniia. A century ap;o the
main difficulties were the scarcity and the high price of salt:
the necessities of the Aiistro-Hiitigaritm Empire, like those of
India, [lerpetiiate the obsolete and unuorthy gabclie; but the
fisluTUieii are favuured by Gdvemment, when they buy at
Spalato the produce of the Istrian Ssilinus of Capodistria and
Pisano. The general evil, here and in every item of the
Dalmatian Archipelago, ia the deficiency of communication :
Lis^a lies umler the shadow of a great monopoly, and is limited
to a single steamer-visit {ler week. Hence the abundant use of
the telegraph, whirh is, however, Bomewhat like living on
extract of meat instead of breed. Nor can the Islanders be
held wholly faultless ; they will not litdp themselves — they
will call upon Hercules, the Government. Pulitics run high,
and are aggravated bysueh retrogratle wJ/'ho or pig-tail (Ultra-
montane) prints as the 'Avveiiire' of Spalato, a peculiarly
vicious specimen. Loi-al quarrels are fierce : it is popularly
Srtid that two Dalmatiiins cannot live together in a town without
a quarrel ; and yet I know of no race w hich to the stranger
appears so genial and so synipathelic.
As the excellent vine is utterly neglected at Cherso, so at
Lissa the olive does not prosper; and many declare that, like
the date-palm and the cocoa, Bacchus and Minerva do not
cohabit comforttihly, as the " lamentable epitaph " says :
" Non lieno convoniunt, nee uii4 in )»fJc raorantur."
Fortis found a small trade in fruits of sorts ; apples and pears,
oranges and agrumi (lemons), melons and water-melons, figs
and j)runes, almonds, uiulberries, and cantbs : these are now
Iwirely sufficient for local consumption. The honey is excel-
lent, flespite a treatment worthy of prehistoric days; but it is
produced in small quantitiea The wool is poor, and the women
use it in making maglie or cahe (breeches). The only impor-
tant form of "la petite Industrie " is now rosemary-oil, of which
the ] feasants annually retort some 20,000 funti (1-2 lb.), each
worth from IHJ soldi to nearly a florin. AMien the steamers
touch at Lestna the pjvssengers are offered small flasks of this
essence, coating 20 soldi.*
We ctinnot, I have said, expect io find ancient buildings at
Ijissa. In the hack-streets Ixddnd the British Vice-Consulate
you are shown the Popina-Kuca.t the Popt-'s Houses, where
• The other curioeitr of IjfBimi ia a kin<l nf tiM^o mftrlc of nloe-flbTa
f Popina, tbi< local mi«proiiutuniilioti lor I'lipinn, feni. uf Pnpin, adj. Pttixil.
Ktiii, jil. of Kiicn, a liouse. lleucelLe two heretical lUissum sectd, the Popovciua
Burton's Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
Alexander III., when travelling from Rome, was received by
Kaineriiis, ArehUisliojv of Spaliito. The little row of throe old
teuenients is now tpuanteti by a Couiisa fuiiiily ot" the working
classes, niclcnamed by the people Muljat-Popiui — Muljat the
Papals. After lonvinjT^ the island I heard of a *• Phojuician
tablet" built np in the hunse-wall of a certain Sig. Rendich, at
the comer of the Piazza Opatia. The tlruwju_t^ s.-nt to nie by
M, Serafina Topi^'h shows a shiehi-ibniied liehl, 45 ceutimctres
long by 35 biodd, with a palm hearing fine Itranches on each
side, and flanked by *' Phceuician letters."' JMost renders will
agree with me tiiat the figures are more probably the armorial
badges of some barouiul house,
Th^' ruins of the classical town opposite Liasa, which we shall
presently visit, huve ]»rovC(i, like Aipiileja, a mine of antiquities.
Here was exhumed the beautilnl specimen of CI reek art, the
tombstone uhieh attracts every eye in the ^Museum of Sjialato.
According to 1). Aiiollonto Zanella, it was one of 17 ranged in
two tiers, upper and louer. The local eolleetions are all
private, and it is rcgretable that the Lissaiis have not set apart
a ro<»m or two for their :uiti<piities, which lose half their value
by trauspurtntiou. The city boasts of a reading-room, and a
raap-rooni ; but the Mn&eo, though often proposed, luis still to
be established.
At the British Yice-Consulate an upjier room has been filled
with the finds from Pelagosa, which will be noticed when we
visit the islamJ. The articles from old Issa are a massive semi-
circle of terra-cottii, like the upper vault of an arch; a corner-
stone, probably of a tomb, with tive eoloiiiiettos and six gutta&
below; and a fiuo cotta njedalliou sliowiug the head apparently
of a Juno in high relief. The Kevcrend, summoned to Zara
immediately after our arrival, could not show us his collection :
the only items wo saw were four noble specimens of the black
and coloured ware usually called " Etruscau," cenochoei of
claret-jug shape, the handles ending above in animals' heads.
The Po<Iusta. Cav, I'ietro de Dujimi, an ohl and famous Lissan
family, exhibited a large quantity of pottery, none equal, how-
ever, to those of the Abate; .sundry ettins ot IxoOian emjjerors,
and a few islanders. The moneys of the Issad are mentioned
by Fortis (ii. § 5, p. 164). In his day, however, only two types
were known, one with an amphora ami the other with a goat on
the reverse, the obverse of botli showing a hehneted head of
Pallas facing dexterwise. The Biblioteea Patria of Zara • in-
(witli prii'Btji) nnd the Beapopovifina (without priestis), iw ojiposed to the Yeress,
or imre whisinatii^s.
• P. 173, Prtntwl at Znrft in l.<<63. TI«enotir(-s dl' the coins nre by Dr. George
Pollich, tmder the librarians SS. J. DanUo uml .1. Uuglich.
166 Bcbton'* Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
forms us tliat some COO specimens, between Greek and Itoman,
had been found : amongst tlicm ei^^ht types, varying in diameter
from O'Olo to 0*023, dcnati-d those of Issa. In most of them
the obverse varies in minor points; one has a bunch of
grapes, and the reverse with a horse pacing to the right, and
the legend l£. The reverses of the rest show the stag, standing
or conrunt to right, or the goat standing and facing dcxterwise.
We were told uf a coin bearing a galley, but 1 can find no
notice of it in books ; perhaps it was struck to commemorate
some Roman victory.
There is a grand ossuarium* of full size, and the tinest glass,
with scanty iridescence, which had been found in a pot and
cnverofcoflr.se stone. The lachrymals are numerous, and the
flasklet of blue glass, with a Jlednsa's head standing in high
relief, on both sides of the k>wer and somewhat compressed
bulges, is of admirable manufacture. Another gem is a ring of
pure gold, plain and twisted above, a shape which might be
found to-day : it was taken with sundry coins from an ordinary
terra-cotta vase. In tlie fafade of the Podesta's house are set
two Greek inscriptions rudely executed.
Dr. de Dojimi, the eldest son of the family, who had travelled
as far as Baghdad, accompanied us to the westerumost point of
the Ijunda PiccoJa, where the antiquarian interest of Lissa
begins. Here the open phwc, bounded northwards by vineyards
and kitchen-gardens, licars amongst the Slav pcjpulation the
names of Mrtvila,t dead man's ground, or itrabiscie, the
graves; and here, to the south of the classical city, lay tho
cemetery, as was usual in Dalmatia. It extends to the foot of
the bulge still known as the Gradina (old town), a lump of
limestone rock,t thinly covered with fertile hnmus, divided oft'
Iby dry walls, and grov\u with many vines and a few carobs. In
a garden belonging to tho Podesia we were shown a standing
pillar, with a Greelc insoiption not easy to decipher; two frag-
ments of Latin inscriptions on broken slabs, and a large statue
of white marble, whose head had apparently been borrowed
from another.
The English visitor to Lissa will probably inspect the Ceme-
tery at the root of tho rocky headland crowned by Fort Smith,
where lie the furty-five utlicers and men § killed in action on
* Many of tlieso uma still c?ontainc^d bones almost consumed by the fire.
t Ftin. plnr. of Mrtvilo, from M&rti or Mieti, to die. In the Slovene dJaI«ct.
fiirlluT nniUi, Mi'itvih* would aigiiify " li-thurgy," or tileb|)y t.k'kn«t«8. So Grab U
a gnive, and timtijiy, or firuhljc. u gniv<'_var<i.
J Tlic lii'sl mujia and jdniis liithi-rUi j>ubti»hed depress the Gradina in fiiTOur
of tlie Bnudarico, tlie inoro aiibatarttinl I'future to the west.
§ A Inige i>ro]virti">n to tliu wounded, who numbered 145 (James), or about
1 to 4, nhowing the scvcrilj of the btniggle.
March 13, 1811. Sig. Antouio Topicli, one of the principal
citizens on the islann, has ior years kept the graveyard in
excellent condition, solely at his own expense. These memories
of English prowess are often lucally preserved, when at home,
where men have other things to think of, they fall into
oblivion. I i-ejoice to add that in 1875 her Majesty's Foreign
Office appointed the generous islander British Viee-Consul for
Lissa.
The Cemetery, which is not noticed by Wilkinson (1848), nor
by Ncale (18(31), is reached by boat in a few minutes from the
city. It ia marked by the litth^ chapel of Saint George and
the ruins of a battery. At the entrance of the masonry en-
ceinte are two inscriptions on slabs of white marble. That to
the left tells us " I freddi avanzi rpii sepolti sono dei Britanni
Eroi die in mare perirono della patria in dilesa e in onore del
Trono," The other, in Enpclish, evidently cut at Lissa, bears
the date MDCCcxv. The gate Iea*is to a central walk, metalle<i
with pi-bbles, ami bordered with the luxuriant and gmceful
American aloe. The first monument erected over officers and
men l>ears inscriptions which date Feb. 22, 1812 ; in the centre
of the walk lies a flat slab, preserving the name '* Honourable
Charles Anson," — his grandson, now in the Besika Bay fleet,
lately placed on it a wreath of immortelles, — and easternmost,
a pedestal, without date or legend, bears a scalloped cap aome-
M'hat like the funereal Turkish turban. Near the south-west
corner, three heaps of earth cover the remains of sixteen
Austrian artillerymen and infantry : they were killed on July 19,
1860^ the day before the sec'ond naval battle of Lissa, by the
explosion of the jxtwder- magazine in Fort Smith,* under
the fire of four Italian ironclads, before the latter wore com-
Eelled to retire by the Madonna Battery near the head of the
arbour.
Mv first visit to Lissa ended (Sept. 27) with a walk to the
Gradad, on the northern coast, about the middle of its length.
Guided by Sig. Serafino Topich, we passed through the Banda
Piccola suburb, remarking that, as usual in Dalmatia, many of
the houses are approached by Hights of steps. Traversing the
Grabiscie, or Grave Valley, now well grown with grapes, we
struck tJie Dol,t a longitudinal depression, which divines the
island into two systems of highlands, the southern half being
the more important. It presently becomes the Samogor, trons-
• Captain Brackenbiiry, in his nble sketch of the action ('The Times,*
August 14, 1866), calls tl»is work by its Italian mime of S. Giorgio.
t Meaning a tbUcj in geneml : the diminutive ia Dolina, a pretty word exten-
sively used.
lated " bosco isolate," * and under the naine of Valledi Koslrina
it unites mth tlie Vallone mid Port of Comisa, distant aboat
11 miles to the west. Intliis direction the depression gradually
rises some hundred feet towards the northern foot-hills of
" 3[onte Hum," and the inverted ogive is protected hy Fort
Maximilian, at the heginaing of the inrliued plane, nhich falls
tovvnrds the Western Sea. Tlie princifia! ivild growth of the
soil, whinh is reddish like that of Lstria, is the Agave Americana :
its leathery ekin, well provided with stomata, enables it, like
the cactus of Africa, to live almost by breathing, to resist
the most powerful suns, and to Hoiirish upon tiie barren rock.
This is the Maguey which supjdies Mexico with the fermented
pulque and the distilled mezcal. It thrives gloriously in it«
ishmd home, whilst iu India it loses its qiialities, its beauty, and
its majesty. The earobs had been frost-bitten. The average
maximuui of cohl is O' (K. =32' F.). but in liS75-76 the
temperaturo fell, I wjis assured, to -(i>\ aiul even - 7^ = (F,
18 '50" and 16-25°).
The peasauts were busy driving nudes, ponies and asses,
laden with large skin-bags containing gra[ies partially crushed
for closer packing; and all were exceptionally civil. The
women wear sjuhtr-hutj^, home-made of straw, and trim their
hair in a single flat curl on each temple, suggesting the English
" aggravator." Their husbands, especially when belonging to
the Slav or national party, afiect red caps, and the peculiar
Montenegrin " fez " is not wholly absent. Hard work and
harder fare have the usual eflfect: the good Mate (Matthew)
Radissio, who accompanies us, is only fifty-two, and looks
seventy. Hn quotes the proverb, "Acqiia fa male e vino fa
cantare ; ' but his untimely old age, poor fellow, owes less to
excess than to want of it.
In the Samogor we saw the inland powder-magazine, at which
many an Italian shell had been vainly directed. Most of
Persano's officers Iiad served in the Austrian navy, and they
well knew where to shoot. From that point vve turned north-
west, and followed the rough foot-track winding up the lateral
valley Drascovea. The total of an hour placed us at Zapakli-
niea,t where, according to local tradition, lay the city of Teuto,
widow of Agron, who is known to every Lissan as Kraljica
Otaka> Queen of the West (i'),! and suggests the curious ques-
* From Raiuo. nlono (eoluB?), nnd Gom. n hill or an upland wood, tlie Spnnisli
Montu. Ill 81ovL'ue Biimo would iiicftn self, e.g. '* snmoljubac," a «4f-lovcr. nii
«»golist.
t Pronounced Ziipiikllnltdn. Some dorivo tliB word from Kojutti, to dig, grub :
oUktb tmni<lat« it, at the iiUlc jiitch (>piiio hill). I'likliU wuuld nieuu to tipply
Pttkliua or pitch: Fuklft is Hull. In fact tho etymology in iluhions.
J The people tniuslivte tlie w ord Qiiul-u of the I'jist, which is Istok (Isitok)
Burton** Visit to Lissa and Pelagota.
tion whether Teura is a corruption of Otaka, or vice versa.*
The historians of Rome tell ns only tliat the first Illyrian war
was caused by the unrepressed piracy of her subjects ; that she
"vaiuly attaelied Issa (B.C. "229 ). which had placed itself under
the^gis of the great licpublic ; that she assassinated one of the
two brother-ambassadors sent by the Romans, and that sundry
defeats compelled her to buy peace («.c. 227-28) at the cost of
paying tributCj and of yielding ber tleet, together with the
greater part of her dominions. lint we are nowhere told that
tbe gallant Queen ever dwelt at Isaa.
Nothing can be ninre charming than the site of Zapaklinica.
The city, now a succrssion of small vineyards parted by dry
walls, rose at the iiead i>f a slope gently falling towards the
deep blue waters on tbe north-west. Ejistwanl, ur tu its right,
swells tbe bush-clad masiy'if ai V^issokaglavica : t it is iVunted on
the west by tbe " Kompris," banded with naked rock, and by
the " Smokvaglava '' or Figs' Head — Kaas el-Tiu — similar in
opposed to Otok, the wc«t. Poaaibly ToTitn may hnve been a royal tillc, not ft
nanie, for we find tlie first wife of Agron calkil Trittuta.
• Fortifi, when discussing the ori^n of tbe Morlulu (vol. i. c. 2, p. 45), a<lfluce»
the following 2U namca of towns, triboa, au<i persons, from the cluR'tioftl historiniis
and geograpnurs.to prove thnt the Slav tongue was ^jioken in Istria and Dalinntin
dnritg Unman domination; Prvnimn (P. N. of City. Keltic ?), Ahmm; {Iwd.
Albona, oertftitdy Keltic l ; Senia (SetioncB?); Jadera (corrupted from Dindora or
V. v.); liaiaiuuiii ; Stluiii ; Uncuna ; BUmora uud Ztvjora (lx)th aiguiflcunt in
Shiv) ; Trisltitui ; Ciahnu ; Oehra : Carjialiiif; Pleurtitiu ; Agron; '/'euca (sic) ;
Dtirdani ; TribdUi ; GrtthH (Bipnifica.nt in Slav) ; and I'iruttx. He notes thrw
Gredf aimihirities, evitkntly borrowed, viz., Spugga {(nt6yyot) ; trapeza (jpdwt^a,
like Sau&krit) ; and KiilruLi (KaOtSpa) : and ho miglit btivc luldcd GidjKid, from
AfcnrJri;!. He gives 12 Lntin R-aerablauccs : 8aZbun (Sabuinm); Knin ct Klin
(cnneuo, a wedge) ; Plaro ; flaTraa) ; Slap (lapsua aipia.', waterfall) ; Vino (viuum) ;
Capii (caput; tiogtui (ruj^uida, dew); L(pU) (li'pidus) ; Zlip (liiipus); Spartn
(aporta) ; Slirinje (dcriniuui) ; and Lu(j (bici't')- H'' quotes alse 12 Italian forms,
besides 10 Venetian wonls, which ore evidently borrowed from the Wends, viz.:
Ahbajare (oblajati), to bark; Stutlujiare («vla^iti), to strip of baggage; Harare
(vacarate or variti), to clrn^t; TarUujlvxre (turlati), to sstutter; Amnuittare, to
kill, from M05 (muc), u sword, and its derivationti, Ma^'ati (maijiti ', to fight, fence,
pnt to the sword ; Jlieco (sricbian), rich ; Tutza (yaesa) ; Coppa (Kiippa; : Danza
(tan/ii); Bi$dto, an eel. the eomiuou term \xi Istrian Ituiiun, from bixati, to run
awiiy; liraro! (Pnivo ! siino sig.); Jiriga (briga), a cpmrrul. Ho eiidj* the list
with 13 English fdroilarities ; Stina, Bt'ine ; Maif, lucnt ; McJ, moikd, honey ; Brate,
brother; S^^^tra, sl»ter ; Sin, son; Smite, gun; Smule (glass, mule?); Mlike, milk,
Sniii. snow ; Voda, water ; Grab, grave ; and Sreltm, silver.
lie also anticipates tlie learned Mr. Wward A. Freeman in noting (i. 2, p. 47^
tliat the Daeians spoke a Slav tongue. As regards tbe v<x'ables quoted above, if
the old Illyrian be represented by modem Aliianian, it probably had Indo-Euro-
jioin, anil especially Keltic iitliuitieH, and tliUsi we may cxpluin the remarkabie
family likentsa. It is much to be widlitd that tliese words should be examined
by Keltic scholars. Finally, though the Bubjcet is far too esk-nsive for anything
Ijeyond mere mention, I would express my surjirise at the modem theory of
Schleicher and otljers cmicerniug the eoinpararivf; antiquity of the Slav honily of
languages, than which nothing can bo uiofe Siiubkritio than Sanidcrit itself.
t In Il«.lifln rendered '* piccola testn altn," Jdgli little head, from Viaok, tall, and
Glavicn, dim. of QlavB, a head, u hotidland, und frj fcirtli.
<
170
BuETON** Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
form, bnt somewhat greener. In front lies the Porto Grada6,
an irregular triangle of clear bine water, edged and scalloped
with leek-green, forming a natural " Maiidracchio," or dock :
the cove is parted liv a promoiitttry with outlying ixicklet, from
its western neighbour Porto (Jhiave. Kegular excavations
have not yet been made at Zapaklinica, but many remnants
of antiquity thence liud their way to the city.
Enjoying the cool prospect of the waves below,
** A bowery hollow crowned by summer aea,"
a hu\\\ fit for Venus Anndyomenp, we wound along the western
Hhouldor of the Vi.>*sokiiglavica by uu elementary track through
the luxuriant senii-trnpical bu.sh. Jfere we remarked the
Terebinth, the ]M}Ttle, the Arbutus, and the Arum ; the Phillyrea
{nudia) and the "Divlja Masliua," or wild tdive; the pretty
heath [Erica mnliijlora), and the lentisk. which supplies the
^lilastikhe of Chios, the only ishin<l now producing the noble
gum on a large pcale ; the Juniper of the two normal species,
especially the J. vuicroearpa, with edible berries ; and the pine
(P. marithna), which towers over the humble growths.
After thirty minutes' walk we struck the nrckof the Isthmus
that forms the eastern pier of Porte (j radar ; and we rested at
the Taddeina-gradja, a line of low cattle-sheds roofed as usual
here with Zimble or slabs of fissile ]irae<tune: the place takes
its name from the family that owns it. Thence we proceeded
to tiie headland still called tiradaoski-nit* or " old town point ";
|, tphere the castle of Queen Teuta is placed by local tradition,
ind where she buried, before lier flight, the treasure vainly
f'feought by a host of gold-liiinter^. The greater length of the
little peninsula stretches to the north-west., and is cliff-bound
and precipitous everywhere save towards Porte Gradac on this
south-westem side. The easy slope shows two modern cisterns.
The lerre pleine bears evident signs of levelling, and the thin-
ness of the soil, whi(;h is not worth ploughing, lias preserved it
from disturbance. The circuit has been walled wherever acceas
was possible: in most parts the foundation is level with the
ground ; but at the neck there is a tall mound of debris which
might prove productive. Across the narrowest part stands a
fragment of wall, 15 metres long by 2-30 high and O'SO thick:
the cement contains water-rolled pebbles as lar -^ -''- - nrlg:
this defence, which, at Lissa, was described to al,
may have been built by the Venetians or even Ux t'^ .'>lavs,
possibly on an older base. The jioint com^ .v
* E&t. mcnninp; a bc«
niiiritiuic Dalmatia.
fxkj [toint, 1*
Ab in
of the beautiful islands and highlands of middle Dalmatia,
disposed iu suocessive vanishing tiers of white limestone, dyed
azure by the limpid air; utid to thu west over the deep-blue
sea, and distant sume 33 miles, lies the Poiuo-rock,* exactly
imitating a shi[i under full press of cnnvas— the tradition is
that duruig some war it was cannonaded by mistake.
From this commanding ground we could sight the spot
where the Ee d' Italia underlies 200 fathoms of water. The
second battle of Lissa was fought on July 20th, 1866, about
]0 miles north of the harbour.
"We returned to the city by a shorter cut along the eastern
flank of the ''high little head"; in full sight of the Canalo
di Lissa, where the Embatte or sea-breeze was creeping
down from the north, ruffling the waters into a deeper
blue, while t!ie smooth nznre slept near the shore. Every
bit of plain and hollow Inul been turned into a vineyard :
houses were scattered here and there, and the peasantry of
both sexes and all ages were merrily gathering their grape-
clusters. The panoramic view of Port Saint George and of
Lissa City, failed by its purjjle bay, and backed by its stony
and bushy hills, was as pretty a sight as man would wish
to see.
A third rough foot-path debc»ufhe<l upon the venerable
Gradinn, the classituil old town. The site is a bulge of ground
rising to tlie north-east of the Mrtvila flat, and connected by
a gentle t.lope with the higher hills behind on to the north.
It is separated by the covtt known as the Porto Inglese from
a similar hillock to the nortli-eaat : here they say appeared a
Latin inscription locally believed to " commemorate the defeat
of Queen Teuta by a Roman ceiiturion."t It was published by
Moromsen (I. 177) luckily before the stone, which measured
80 centimetres by 50, was broken and built up in the nearest
* In Bl:\v J;ibuka (Yabuka\ also meaning an apple. An attempt was made to
aacend it, in the epring of 1S76. by Herr Spreitzt-nlioffer, on employ^ of Govern-
ment at Viennn, acoonipoiiied by Sig. Seraflnu Topicb : the weather was eo bod that
the oxplon'ra could not even land.
t I could col jimcuri'.tHtlK'r iit T<is^a <ir at Trieste, a ropy of Mommseu's Corpns
lusrrip. Lnt. The lollowiog trantHriiition was kindly forwarded to mo by D.
ApolloDii>ZuiiL'Ilii. >v)iu docliiroii Ihut it vtta foaud (1859) iu the Qradina upon the
property bearing iiia fmnily name : —
Q. Nvsacatvs. q. r. tel (velina)
mrva. leg. patbo».
POKTlC^Um) BEPtClVNDVM.
BE. »VA. PEUVK. coEii. (curavit)
IX>EXQVE. ritOB.
Sig. Ljubio has nlso publibibod it in the Fasc. xxxi. of 'Bdd Jagoslavenko
Akademije ' (Agr-aui, ls75), ia which ho attempts to complvte l^he rarius uf the
Ptuiion, LogatcH or Licitteuuiiti! who governed Dalmatia in the Roman days.
i
172
Bdrton'* Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa.
Martelio-tower, shortly before the affair of 1866. Since the
historian's visit, some 14 years ago, the work of cicstnictiou
wns continned ; and the remains of tlie Kuman hypucauet in
the Podesta'n projierfy have been burii^d. The ground, which
doubtless still covers many a rclie of old Issa, is broken by
loose walls ioi-ming terraces for the vine : it has, I have said,
been a mine of j>lunder for collectors; and the rains still wash
from it coins in quantities, rings and scraps of corroded metal,
Cotti of all kinds and the normal cubes of coarse mosaic.
The nnly sign of actual excavation appeared in a cistern, re-
vetted witii the Unest lime-cenicnt : the ctmtents were brown
earth and dusty dobri-s mixed with broken p<jttery. The foun-
datiuns of the old walls in situ are easily recognised Ly the size
and cutting of the stones : in sundry places the natural rock
has been trimmed nnd squared ; and the superincumbent
masoury evidently bekmgs to a later date. The lowest level
was occupied, according to local legend, by the Forum : here
the inscriptiuu was Imuul, and here a worked monolith is an
undoubted remnant of antiquity.
The whole sea-face of the Gradiua is fronted Ly a modern
dry wall, within whicli are the walls of the older enceinte. To
the north-cast are two musses, apparently turrets, while various
tall outstanding buildings, mere ^shells and shreds of cut stone
and iime, ris«- from the vini'vanl tu the south. Wo noticed a
number of ancient remains built u[i in the dry wall, such as the
volutes of a capital and the jiediment of an altar. Nearly
opposite the YeUnin,* the little maritime powder-magazine,
built not by the Eugli.sh but by the Austrians, is the trunk of
a statue, fine Carrara-like marble, 0 feet 5 inches (Austrian)
in height, with toga nnd sandals, the latter ap|)arently un-
finished. It was foun<l about 15 years ago in tljo Pudestas
pruperty; and possibly it adorned the fonun or the portico
referred to l>y the insoiption. Tlie arms are broken ofl^ and
the head, buugbt with five florins, they Siiy, Avas sent to Vienna
by M, Hoflman, a classical cnptain in the army. At the eastem-
luost betid of the same wall, there is a torso of smaller size,
also clothed : its imperfect condition masks to the non-profes-
aional its style and dale.
From the Gradina we walked to the Point and CVmvent f>f
S. Girohimo, nowa natural mole projecting from north to south,
fronting the city and defending the'St^mza, or dock, to its west.
Accorditig to tradition and appeanuices, it was an island : the
narrow channel connecting it with the mainland, and once
bridged over, has been filled up by time, whilst around it there
nre traces of a similar subsidence, — a movement not confined to
Lissa. We failed to find the subrtqneous mosaics mentioned
by Fortts (IL 5, § 1, p. 102), and repeated by Ulascheic (p. 114
'' Manual for 1873 ') ; but the northern shore shows beneath
the water large cut stones, supposed to be a mole. A shell of
Roman theutre, with the arc opening southwards, forms the
terrace of the convent-hospital : the solid masonry at once
strikes the eye, and the large stones conceal a core of hard
rubble bedded in mortar. The latter was mixed with the
usual coarse gravel, and in places we remarked the bits of
pounded brick, which in England are held evidences of Itomaa
workmanship.
The convent is rich, and its tenants, the Minori Osservanti.
have large estates upon tlie island. Don Girolamo Marinkovic,
the Padre txuardiano, showed us with some pride a " veritable
pepper-plant " growing in the garden. It proved to be the
pepper-tree of Gibraltar (Schcemis moUis), a veiy different
affair, probably introduced by Bill Smith. We also visited
the monimieiits of the thirty-six artil!ery-raen and marines
killed under Tcgetthoff". The latter were covered by a
lion couchant, of tasteful work, by the sculptor Botinelli,
domiciled at Trieste. The Italians seem to have thrown
their sliells witJiotit much discrimination: several of the
missiles, still unexploded, were rolled by the eiiildren down
the hill-sides, and some fatal accidents followed the bombard-
ment.
We had not time to exhaust all the memorabilia of Lissa.
D. Apollonio Zan^dlii recommended a visit to a tumulus cixlled
Stavelo, the {J-ace of rest, on the south-eastern shore, near the
Valle Riidrt, or the Mine. He spoke also of the Cavenia
di Pretisjana, near Taleska Bay. which we shall presently
sight on the mid-southern length of the island, a double
feature, whose westtirn section may contain traces of pre-
historic man. Above that poitlet also are found, on a coniciil
hillock, scatters of cut stones, possibly balongiug to an older
<lay. Many of them were used by Signor Topich in 18ti(j, when
building the tower whicli served as a co)'ps-de-garde. For
additional information he referred us to I). Pietro Borcie»
Parroco of Comisa tomi ; to D. Simeone Pietric ; and to D. An-
tonio Mardossic. who lives upon his own property inland.
Even the vulcanism of tlie Cumisa district deserves study.
Fortis * heard of igneous matter ; the people talk about con-
glomerate of lava at the Scogbo Brusuik, alias Molisello ; and
• Viaggio (ii. 5, § 1, n. 1G<5). He mentions Donati's ' Soggio d' Istorin Naturale
^eir Admtioo,' and Iio Lore aliowa a wise scoptioal or scientific spirit.
l^sit to Lissa and PeJaffota.
my learned and excellent friend, the venerable Cav. Muzio
de Tommasini," of Triest^e, found near Cornisa a dialla^to like
that of Busi Island, and suspects trachyte. Dialla^ite is men-
tioned also by Frana Ritter von Hauer (p. 368, * Die Geologie,'
&c., Wien, i874). Finally tlie Coinisans show a deposit of
{yypsum, which may have iJeen converted by heat from carbo-
imUs into sulphate of lime.
Part II. — Telagosu.
L The Voyage ; Landing. — Early on September 23, 1876, La
Pi'la^osa steamed out of Lissa to inspect the yuimgest and the
liuest of the sixty lighthouses, with which Austria has provided,
at a considerable expense, her Adriatic seaboard. Very lovely,
even in the dimming scirocco, is the view from the mouth of
glorious St. George's harbour. In front, distant some 12 miles, is
Lesina, with its ex-French town and port, and its forts Napoleon
and Spagnuolo: here low-lying, the island towers hign and
broken to the east. Behind it rises the dark dorsum of rugged
and roaring Brazza, " CaprLs laudata Biattia ; " while the con-
tinental horizon-line shows the nick of liistorie Clissa, acro-
polis of Salona ; the pyramidal buttresses of the Mossor (Mons
Aureus), and its prolongation, the Biokovo, or White Mountain,
whose pale and tormented brow is faintly streaked with azure
light and bluer shade. When the sharp Maestrale (north-
wester) has purged the air, the sun picks out everv feature with
startling distinctness; and, as the last glories fade in the waning
grey, the mountains become the wan and unsubstantial phan-
toms of wliat they were, — imperial giants, robed in paqile and
gold. Looking huckwards we see the ridge-line west of Lissa
city, crowned by tlie two chapels of SS. Cosmo and Andrea.
The Scotchman, being the taller, has been used for an ** optical
telegraph ; " while '' AEonte Hum," the island-apex, backs, with
its naked and couthless form, the fair scene of harbour, city,
and busily slope.
Beyond the jaws of St. George we pass to port a low white
rock, "La Vacca," whose two "Manzetti", (bull-calves) wo
had sighted when making Lissa. Beyond it, to starboard,
stand Le Strazziiie, tall cliffs, jagged and abrupt, upon whose
Beadashed base, during an Ostro-Scirocco (south-south-easter),
an English man-of-war narrowly escaped wreck, ^vitb the loes
* Since these liiiee were writiteo, mj cxcoUont friend died fiill of yean and of
honouTB.
Burton'* Visit to Lissa and Pelagosa. 175
of ber masts. Between this wall and the Promontore, the
easternmost projection of the island, the inclines wear a coat of
lighter and livelier fjreen. Our Lissan companions remember
the days (July 18-20, 1866) when the hill-sides were aflame
with the shells vomited by siiips and batteries. While tho
Becond great naval battle of Lissa was fought about 10 miles to
the north, here the land preserves many a memorv of the
English victory. Beyond the Bij^ht of Stroncica,* translated the
" little Apj^yrodi)" or landing-place, we were shown the position
of the submerged rock, upon which Captain Hoste, by lx)ld jmd
skilful tactics, succeeded in grounding his dangerous enemy,
La Favorite, the forty-gun frigate of the gallant Commodore
Bernard Dubonrdieu. Here the latter, together with his
Captain and a crowd of the crew, assembled on the forecastle to
board tho Amphion, were killed by the discharge of a " brass
S^-incli howitzer, loaded with 750 balls." It is well to
"BEMEMnEH Nelson," but I hope that some future James will
do more justice to the memory of the brave French sailor.t
Off that bight, now called " Little Smokova," in Italian " Porto
Figueira," where the Torro Telegrafiea now stands, La Favorite^
commanded, after hor double disaster, hy Colonel Alessandro
Gifflengn, with an Easeigne de Vaisseau to work her, was set on
fire, and at 4 p.m. " blew up with a great explosion," Some of
her guns, they say, are stiil to be seen under water.
Beyond the fine lighthouse which garnishes the Promontore
di Lissa, and the "Great Smokova" bight, we sighted the islets
forming a false coast along the eastern and south-eastern
shores. The first is tho "Greben" {PcdinesW a name and a
feature equally common in the Dalmatian Seas; bare rocks
with comb-like crests, and bluft' to the windward where the
Si'irocco breaks. Next comes the distorted triangle Budicovac,
a two-hilled well-wooded dot tenanted by vino-cultivators : the
unfortunate Emperor Maximilian had thoughts of buying it,
and probably ho was not its first admirer, a^^ two Koman coins
liave been fuund there. One of our party, tmnslating the name
" Become thou " (budi) " a smith " (kovac), argued the presence
of metal, possibly of mines. But the learned D. Apollonio ex-
plained the title as '• La Sentinella " from buditi, to wake, to
Keep awake, either because the fishermen here postetl a man
to look out for squalls, or because the ground is high compared
with the little Zaule (Sleep I), the low rock to the west. I was
* Id Ibe Hydrog. Map also Stoni^ira, prolmblj a local corrnptioa of Stioncicii,
a. rni. <Hiii. of Strana, si'le, flank, sU>|>c.
t 'Naval Hialory,' vol. v. pp. 253-5ti und o.'il-53.
J The generic Slav word reappears in tbe ItalLin " grt'jipi," precijiitous cliffs.
*
176 Burton's Visit to Lissa and Pelagoaa,
romiuded of a great Istrian antiquary who found at Castel
Venere a stone bearing
M. M. C. P. F. ;
and incontinently rpndered it "Marcus Metallua Ciiji Filius
Fecit." It was tlie old tale of "Bill Stumps liis Mark;" a
peasjint seeing the citizen carefully copying the legend, ex-
plained it as the work of bis father, and read Mintro Marco
Coceito fese (feci, fecit) /«re.
South-west of Budicovac lies the Scoglio Ravnik ('* flat
rock "), an arid levtil whose only claim to Jiotice ia a veritable
groiia Azurra. Dr. Coglievina {loc. cit, p. 395) describes it as a
tunnel in the limestone cliff, with a two-arched entrance formed
by a natural column ; and with a remarkably regular interior
about 40 feet wide, into which the magical light penetrates by
a spiracle, opened in the dome as if by the hand : he declai'es
that in the poetic days of the Greeks this grot would have
become a bower for the Nereids, Steaming nearly due south,
we left to starboard, and south-west of Lissa, the tall islet-rock
Busi: here some 30 — 40 Corydous feed their sheep and goats,
living on milk and fish, a leprous diet^ and on bread and wine
sent by their employers. Further to the north-west, and
18 miles distant from Comisft, rises the Scoglio Bnisuik (the
Whetstone) or Molisselo, famed for u peculiar linard with a coat
like black velvet. Two and a-ha!f miles to w.N.vv. of it is
S. Andrea, possibly the Pityeia of the old Greek poet ; rich in
ilices and junipers, it still bears the Pinus maritimus. Here
also live a few shepherds, not without danger, as seveu were
carried oft' by a storm-wave on December 2, 1869. An ugly
deed is connected vvitli this skerry. Shortly after our evacuation
of Lissa (1815) an English vessel was wrecked on the Kajola
Kock olf Pelagoga, and the crew, ttiking to their boat, made
Saint Andrew's isle; where the skippers belt, supfiosed to con-
tain gold, caused the murder of all hands, except a boy, whose
witness led to detection. The criminals died in jail : " carcere
durissimo," with its bi-weekly flogging, was certain doom in the
days of the " paternal government j" and even now it seldom
outlasts the tenth year. Last and westernmost of the scatter,
12^ direct geographical miles w.N.w. from St. Andrea, is Porno,
the Apple, a barometer Avhich rises from the sea only in the
finest weather.
A glance to port shows us lumpy Curzola (Korkyra melaiue).
Hereabouts the Venetians were defeated, with the loss of 66
galleys and 7U00 men, by the Genoese (Sept. 8, 129G), when
ii certain Measer Marco Hiillioni (Milione) was taken prisoner.
Backed by the lofty and weather-beaten peninsula of Sabbion-
cello mih its Acroceraunian brow, it is protected southwards by
Lagosta and dots of islets. The most westerly of the latter is
La Cazza, the Ladle, and the name explains its(.'ir as we pass by '•
the inverted bowl is the bare and dome-shaped northern hill,
some 780 feet high, and the handle is the long low Point
Gradiska, sloping tu the south-west and endinjLr in a dwarf bulge
ujxju which a lij^hthonse is being built. A castle, mediteval and
probably piratical, has left traces upon the slope of the quartz
eminence;* and the barren-looking rock supports "pastors:"
they are jiermitted to keep their favourite goats.
We steam slowly, fur La Pdagosa, whoso maximum speed is
9-2 knots, rolls heavily imiler the Sch-oeco with sea abeam ; and
about half-way between the islands, our destination begins to
rise from the blue bosom of the waves, in the siiape of a rndi-
montal turret-ship, a lumpy line crowned by a point. Presently
it developes itself into a regular profile. l>L>ginning from the
east are the two small jagged rocks, the Kaniik Tormentone,!
and behind it tin; Scoglio Ostre (southern); further west is a
comparatively largo dome, the Mala or Piccia P«dagosa; and
westernmost, its occidental outJiers being hardly visible, rises
the Pela^ijosa, a long dorsum of dark rock, culminating, when it
faces the setting sun, in the " Castello," a tine pyramid about
lUO feet high, and cruwned with the imposing Pharos. There is
naught around it but sea and air ; notntng to give a measure
of comparison ; and, despite the Juimblo altitudes the aspect of
the "Ocean-isle" is at once grandiose and picturesque.
Before lauding, we will briefly note what has been written
concerning Pelagosa.^ Ancient history ignores it, either on
account of its situation, or, possibly, making it au outlier of the
Diomcdcao (Tremiti) group. We can liardly connect the
name with the Macedonian Pelagonis bMinding lllyria,§ nor
with our ohi friends the Pelasgi or Pelargoi (archaic Greeks).
The word suggests an Italian, not a Latin, derivation from
niiXa7o<f,|| the latter word being used in these seas; for in-
stance "fcj. Giovanni in Pelago," the miraculous island aoutli
of Rovigno. But we are unable to tix U[ion the date at whicii
it was given.
* A plan }tfu) been Htipplied k» me by the kindness of M >I. Toi>ich ; but I prefer
not to d( soribe the mtc lict'iTf making n pereondl itiafH'Cti'tJi.
t A local corruption of "* Tnimuntana,' the iinrtlj wind.
t It should rather be calUid Lc Pelnj^cwe, as tLu two main features are quite
diitinot. James {Uk. cit. ji. 2.')i!) cgjla it " Pcldgosii,'' but he also transfofius
(p. :;l(<3i PurcDZo into a feminine " Pareiizu."
§ Strabo, rii. c, 7, § 8, tc. : Livy, xlv. 29 ; Pliny, iv. 17, Jtc
II Utherwise, the form woulii bci the classical " iVIujiia " (ir«X<i>ia" or Pelagicii
(■KthayiKo.), meiiningtho Jlarimi; us " pelagia concha," the Bbell-iisb that produced
jjenris.
VOL. XLIX. • K
17S BuiiTOs'* Visit U> Lissa and Pclagosa.
Our principal modem authority is the A
§ 1, p. 162), whose de?cri|)tioji, slightly abri<lgpd, is as follows.
"The isliind of Pelagosa. lies (!() miles from Lissn, and a little
more or less from the promontory of 8. Angela in Tuglia
(Apulia).* The main rock, and the smaller features wliich rise
from the eea in its neighboiirliood, nre remains of an ancient
volcano. I would not assure you that it has sprung from the
waters like many other parts of the Archipelago, although this
is suggested by the silence of the oldest geogmj)I)ers. Ap[ia-
rently it should not have been contiiised witli the Diomedean
group (the Tremiti), distant some 30 roilea, yet this confusion
may possibly have taken pdace. The Java which forms the
skeleton of tJi^ island most resemhles the commonest matter erupted
htj Vesuvius, as far as we could judge when sailing along it,\
If some naturalist would visit its highest points we might learn
whether it has been thrown up by a snlmiarino volcano, like
the islet near Sauterini (Santorin, of uld Tliera) in our days;
or whether it was the summit of some ancient cone of eruption,
whose roots and slopes were buried in the waters when the
Strait of (Gibraltar was fortued, an invasion wliich cannot be
doubt eil by those who liave examined the bottoms and the
coasts of our seas. Tlie fishermen of IJssa declare that violent
eartliquakes are often felt there; J and this would apjiear from
the uspeet of the ishmd which is rugged, ruinous^ and broken
into trHgments." 8o far Fortis, who has teen CLtpied and mis-
copied into those mines of errors, popular Cyclopaidias and
Gazettoers.§
* The Abate loMatirea by the short Italian mile of 4000 feat, not the Austrian
of G<KiO, aud ill pun'ly tO]>ogra[iliicciI luutt^Tii he ia not nlwHVM trustworthy.
t Tlio itulira arc miiic. Aa will be seco, i\w !^igTli3 of viiK-imiMu at I'eiogoaa
nro rnthcr lait-ut than strikiug. The learned Abutu hud a iKTwmal kiiowU-dije *>t
^■e3llvitw, and, sw ho taki.s cjire to sfato, ho only tailed j.»ast Fc^liigosB. In luaKinj;
\\n6 und otlier k'-B-luri-s cninpanilivfly m(xl«.>rii, Lhut ii jifter Iho date of tbo
i|;i"ioiil j^tograjjhei^, be wfus giiidtsl by thu opinionfl of hiit duy and the eramis-
ri:r-i;.;tiod by bis Church to the "Creation."
X Wu shull SCO fiital sij^s of these niovcments the moment we land.
§ Kiii;,'lil's ■CyolciiKKlitt of Geography ' (llrudbuiy iind Kvoiiii, I8SG): J. R.
■M'l.'ullr.ck'3 ' Dictiduury ■ (Longumas, 180J), nnd ■the ICngl. Trtms. of Lnvnlk't!
(Sin/ifoid, 1KG8), olcau ignort- it. Fullarton'a ' tJazeltoer of the Wurld ' (lx>nd<Tii,
isr)(i), »fty*<, '• Pelagosa or IVIlngosa, a sinnll desert isle of the Adriatic, I'i milra
boiith-west of Liijjosta laland ; iiud 'i'Z (rtad 2€j miles from the coast of the
Ciipituiiata in N. Lat. 42° 21* 30" (read 42<^ 23* 44") und K. Lont;. (G.>
l(j'^ Id' 50". It \A siirrouiido<l (reail "l>oidi3ve<l l<» the enst, to tho west iilid to tha
Huutb, (he north btiii^' clear ") by duogerfnis recks, of whic-h the i>ribeijittl (!*•-
Imblv iho "Kajola,' Noric'a Cajohi) is iu N. Lut. \'i'^ 21' ond E. Long. 't«.)
IG"^ li)' ^Norie, N. L«t. ^^ 23' uud E. Long. 17° 22'). It ullorfl« flue nmrblo " (the
only (oarbles are a few iaii>orttil fragmuuU«). The latest reference, iu A, Keitii
Jolinijtone's 'Dictionary of Geography' (Mew edition, Ixmdon. Longmnus,
18«^), thuB runs : " I'elugtwia is a deeort island ia the Adriatic Soft, midway (»
rnngh coinpntutiou) between tho Promontory of Gargiuio, South Italy "and
Daluiatia."
Burton'* Visit to Lissa andPdagosa. 179
It may be as well here to state at once the conclusions to
whicli our researches led. Tho sea about Pelajjosa, bein^
abnormally rich in fish, naturally attracted honest labour, and
the latter, pirates and water-thieves. One of the finds suggests
that it was a battle-field and a burial-ground for men of the
Stone Age. It is not without signs of Etruscan occupation ;
and it was regularly inhabited by the Romans, Pagan and
Christian : almost all their remnants seem to be sepulchral, as
if they had converted the rock into a cemetery.* From docu-
ments still preserved in the archives of Lesina, we learn that
during the supremacy of Venice (thirteenth century), the noble
Lusignano house of Slavogosti, being exiled by the " Serenissima
Republica," took refuge in the Rock and there built a stronghold.
These fugitives practised every manner of oppression upon the
hapless fishermen till their den of thieves was razed to the
ground by the suzerain power. Probably to these days we
must refer the ten skulls and the heap of bones in the Topich
Collection. All are comparatively modem, and show the
orthographic-brachykephalic form with prolongation of the
parietal bones, except a lower jawbone f almost petrified,
with the roots of four teeth converted into a friable yellowish
substance.
When the coast was clear of Corsairs, the fishermen of
Lissan Comisa built, upon the central plateau, a rude little
chapel dedicated to St. Michele. Pelagosa was claimed by
the kingdom of Italy, which occupied it provisionally; and
retired only when the Comisani proved their rights by pro-
ducing ancient documentary evidence. The trigonometrical
bench-mark, dated 1869, shows that it is now under Austrian
rule.
After these preliminaries we . proceed to land. The usual
course lies to the west of Pelagosa, outside three detached fangs,
the Manzetti, in Slav Volio ; % and the navel-like Scoglio
Pampano or Perpak : they are separated by a deep-sea channel
from Point Kapic, on the main feature. On the south-western
flank of the Castello block towering above us, we remark a
sloping plainlet grown with Artemisia : here, as will be seen,
* The distance from Lissa and the other larger islands may suggest diffluultics :
but we arc not without example. Fortis (i. 4 § 7, pi». 1G4-65), when describing
llie Scoglietto di S. Stefano, west of Sebenico, explains tho presence of Boman
tiles, urns, and mortuary inscriptions, ono of the latter robbed of its bronze
letters, by the fact of its having been a Sepolcreto " according to the praiseworthy
customs of the ancients who, wiser than the moderns, removed far from their
Settlements the corruption of corpses and thus prevented the dead injuring the
living."
t Found in the Cava or new quarry, as will presently appear.
X Plural of Voliki, a bull-calf; from Vol, an ox.
N 2
180 BmTON'u Visit to Lisaa and Pelagosa.
•were found tmces of habitation. After 5 hours 30 minntes of
slow progress, we passed to port tlie " Zufli " (Prongs), twO'
eharp and comb-like ridges of sea-blackened limestones, trendiog^
nearly north — south, and rising Kheer from the clear depths of
blue and green. We left to starboard the dangerous Karoik,
Sasso or Stone, which, viewed from above, resembles not a little
the " Dog-rock," at the mouth of the Lycus River of Baynit.
It is also called Sika or Sikka, a corruption of the Italian
" Sicca " (shoal), and must not he confounded with the Secca
]\[ina to the south of Little Felagosa. Between the two main
islets lies " breeches rock," the Gace, or f?cogIio Braghe,* and,
finally, some 3^ geographical miles to the s.s.e., lies another
rock, awash and separated from the main feature by a clear
deep channel. This is the Kajnla, ji' Slav corniption of La
Galliola (= galiggiante, tho floating); and here the English
merchant-craft was wrecked.
To the north of the " Dog-rock " lies the southern landing
place, the Zalo,t meaning Spioggia or beach ; a strip of shingle
about 100 yards long, which can hardly accommodate more
than ten to twelve fishing-boats. They nnist transfer them-
selves to tho north-west, when the dangerous Scirocro blows, at
times raising the water 15-2 feet above its normal level; this
fierce south-easter has thrice washed away the solid bit of stone
V
landing-pier. The peouliarity of the Zulo is the perfectly
rounded sliajie of the water-wnshed pebbles : some are regular
as old muskfit-balls, and have been carried off by the fisherman
to serve as " bnccie '* or bowls.
The east end of *' the Strand " is called Pod-forano, referring
to its being under the Lusignani. Here, about a century ago,
4 or 5 smacks belonging to the rival island were drawn up, and
the crews were aslnire, when 20 — 25 of them were crushed to
death by a rock-slip, the result, they say, of an earthquake.
Since that time the people of Lesina have abandoned the Zalo
to the Comisans. Strong retaining walls of masonry have been
built to prevent such accidents ; but the cliff in places overhangs,
and we were shown a boulder which had lately fallen upon the
shingle beyond tiie defence. Nothing, indeed, can look more
unsjite than the foundation of X\m' island generally : the insecure
base, as throughout the Arcbipelngo, and many parts of the
coast, is a stratum of schist, here slalo-blue, there ochre-yeUow,
which crumbles when dry, and which melts and becomes soppy
• On tlie S. Froncisco River I Tound n cacbfieini or mpiil cal!ed Tiru-calcoen»
— i.e. " Take oft" your drawer*" (for oiisier swimmmgi.
t Po jdonounce'I and writton : a iii ire correct foriu is '/a\\ or Zalo (ZLal, ZLalo),
accflsl, bank.
lagosa.
■wlien the rains drain down to it through the fissurcs from above.
TTpoii this luoso argillacuous formation is built the totterinj^
wall of limestone aua of hard siliceous breccias. Tlie first aspect
suggests that some day Pelagosa may sink as suddeuly as it
is supposed to have risen.
We will reserve for a future day a careful inspection of the
«ite8 where the " iinils " appeared ; and at once proceed to lodge
ourselves at the Lighthouse. X zigzag of U ramp^i, the jiaiuful
and laborioiw work of the last three years, leads from the Zalo
to the summit of the cliff, and here we find the platfoitn of
.S. Ulichele, some I Go feet more, exactly ii5 metf es above sea-
level, and tlie only flat bit of building-ground on the upper
island. A few yards of strada d'accesso, or level road, lead to
the second or short zigzag of three rampa, which ascends *' 11
Castello," the turret of the "last Austrian ironclad." This was
the fisherman's nanie for the tall castellated mass which forms
the west end of. the island ; the apex of the conil) or ridge,
rising 332 feet above-sea level, bluff to the south, and of gentler
inclination northwards. It was hardly accessible when the
Pharos was planned ; and the works began by laying out tho
zigzag, and by cutting off 3 or 4 feet from the head to gain a
level. Tho material, a dark flinty limestone, was mistaken for
gneiss and granite; the fracture is subcouchoidal ; it melts in
nitric acid, leaving a residuum of silex-graius ; it is generally
nnfossiliferous, and its character suggests exposure to great
heat.
The Pharos, whicli is perliaps the best on this coast, was built
by 8ig. Antonio Topioh, a eontract^ir whose name is associated
only with hard and honest work. The engineer was M. Kichard
Hiinisch, who enlarged the plans and carried out the works pre-
pared in the oflicu of the President of the lifaritime Govera-
ment, Trieste. He began his local studies in 1874, and he
visited the island six times, some visits lasting three weeks.
The first stone was laid on May 19, 1S74, and the average number
of hands employed was about one hundred. The estimates
asked florins r)t>,000 ; but unforeseen difliculties raised the
sum to 85,000; uot including 62,000 francs for the lighting
apparatus, and 18,000 francs for its iron dome and other
necessaries. Thus the construction, of admirable strength, cost
only about 12,000/. It was first lighted on September 20, 1875 :
its orbit covers 5U0 square kilometres, and it ia equally visible
from the Pharos of Lagosta Island, and from that of Italian
Viesti upon the Promontory of Monte Gargano. The apparatus
is of the latest construction, and nothing can be more [lictu-
resque than the etyht broad rays of light cleaving, like swords,
the glooms gathered around.
Buiiton'k
The only inhabitants of the island are the employes of tho
Liphthonse, 5 assistants anil 2 women. All their siijipliea are
imported, even water: the lust item costs some 2000 iiorins
per annum. We fuuufi large and coml'urtcible rooms; and passed
thtire the four days between Saturday and Monday, whilst the
steamer retired from the open uud unsafe anchorage to Lissa,
We hud reason to be grateful to M. M. Topieb, ^vno had the
happy thought of carefully preservinpf, despite a hundred diffi-
cmtit^s, every remnant of antiquity whieh was unearthed by the
workmen, and to Sf. Hiinisi -h who, when not officially employed,
accompanied u's on our several sbort excursions, and showed the
volue of extensive local knowledge. To the lattei" jrentlemaa I
also owe fit.ime admirably drawn maps and plans; and I only
hope that he will be persuaded to lithograph his novel
and beautiful sketches ot the curious scenes wnich Pelagosa
ailords.
JI. Ohsf.rvali<mi> on Natvrul History at Pehufosa. — Pelagosa, occupying ft
neutral tract between the DaltuRtian and the Womodean Archijx'lngos, is so
little known to tlie reading world, tliat jicrhaps it will be advisable, befcav
describing its antiquarian yields, to offer tbe r^ults of onr natiinvlists' four
•lays' gleanings. The account must bo short, sn thtro are no books to borrow
from; and the ntise-en-schie may be intorestiiif;, because in many points the
islftDd is a new world iijion a small scale; exceptional, and differing in
climate, in geology, in flora, and perhajis in fiiuna, from all ita Daliuatian
neighbours.
The silflj as baa been shown, is in the heart of the Ttfmperates (n. Lat.
4ii° 23' 44"). The distance from Lissa Port is 40 direct geographical * miles,
and 37 — 38 IVoin tlie nearest soulh-wcstem point ; 291 miles {^art it from the
Italian coast (Viesti, on the Garganian prouiontory) ; 37 from the Tremiti, or
Diomedean Archipelago; and 62 from the inainlami nf Daimatia, the Adriatic
being about 80 miles brood on this parallel. The form resembles upon the
ma[i that of a rooiistroHs iiah, with the head to I he west, inclining a few
degrees nortliuanl, and a well-defined fluke or forked tail to the oa.st, with a
liltlf' Koutliing. The point of camld juucliou, calle*! " 11 Confin," is an ugly
knifeboard of crumbliug yellow rock, with a precipitous fall on either side.
The area of the larger feature is 349,000 sfiuarc yards, or 723 acres, or
bi'lfi Austrian "Jugeri Cadastrali ;" the smaller is of 41,712 square miles,
or 8*G acres, or 6'5 " Jocks." The maximum length of Great Pelagosa, from
K.8.K. to w.N.w. is 1390 rafetres. The great<3wt breadth of the b^e is 270
metrf.s, diminishing to 93 at " 11 Confin ;" aud the average height of the
jftggeil crest is between 60 and 70, rising to aliove 100 at the Caatello. The
Scirocco, tynmt of these seas, has converted the whole southern face, except
at the "Zalo,"into a stiff and broken cliiT-vvall, with dcntilatcd head, and
liicc corroded, channelled, and tunnelled into a thousanul different forms. The
northern side, seldom troubled by the Bom, is a dorsum of comparatively
gentle slope, becoming more inclined and rocky as it descends seaward, where
tbe bare fawn-coloured Calcaire is blackened by the washings of the ever-
restle»8 sea. The upjwr parts are clad with shallow brown humus, scattered
stones, and thin vegetation : the chocolate colour of the soil at once attracts
* In Austria there are 15 nteilmi to the degree; the same is the caae with tho
Germanic mile.
Visit to Lissa and Pchffosa.
notice, after the red coilb of IstriA aud Daltnatia. About the eut cad of the
island, as is also the caae in Little Pelagosa, then.* are cavea, hoilowa, atul
fis«vire«; and tliose opening with upper spiracles, when the wateru oxpH-l llie
compressed air, prixiuce ouifused nud jiruluiigod kturus, lilie the rooans u\ \m\\
— Uit^brious ncconipaiiiments to Ihc ruugU we^ithtr of a slorru-liished wintry
uight.
'ITie meteorology of the rock ttpjiears to Ix* wholly exceptional, and I have
ventured to suggest to my energetic frieud, Prosideiit Albcr, the ndvisixbility
of supplying the Liphthouso with instruments and forms for regular records.
As we approach it the air of the Mediterrancrtu apixars to lose splendour, and
the lively light is suddenly exchanged for an aahuu hue, especially about the
horizon. Too small to attract clouds, i'elagosa is, in popular laag\iagt), a
Spartivento^ or '* split-wind," like the cajx; called Clear, in cloudy Ireland. You
Bee tbe stontns furiously raging a few miles oil" to right and left, and the rains
deluging the Dalmatian and Apulian 8hore»<. You feel an absolute stillue&s^
reiuindlDg yon of the ■ndpara yairjs : —
Tpirtp Pitiful) Ptorii iriKfi iwBp^oiirtr
Ov ft^trbs, otr' hp x<'^uv vuAiit oCrt iror' ififipos
'AAA' altl 2,t<pipoto Ktyi/ nytioirrat a^at
'CKtafhs dflt\(Tiv dsa ^vx"*' dt/Optirrout. — Odys. IT. 563.
It is a surjiHsc, after the cruel climate of Trieste, which — the reverse of
Cfilifomia, whose winter is Mny, and whoso siminior is only June — combines
the winter of Iceland with the sninnier of Bombay ; wlnjse Bora, the alterna-
tive of the wet and gloomy Sclrocco, blows a hurricane worthy of Antillean
Saint Tliomas, overturning carts, and rcquirin.; ropes along the quay to prevent
the inhabitants being blown into the sea j and whose only alternatives are the
Contmste, when the north-easter and south-caster meet aud fight for mastery,
and the Provtnzn, when the weather hesitates which of the two courses to
take. Hence the annual avera:^e of morUlity rises to 40 per 1000, nearly
doubling that of Loudon.* At Pelagosa the Bora does not tyrannise over the
cold season ; and the Scirocco, after blowing for a few hours, either falls off to
the west, or becomes a gale (^/orln/m). During twenty-nine mouths only four
or five showers fell, and the dew, as iu the fabled Garden of Eden, does its
nightly duty by the ground. Even in the hot se.ison calms are rare, lasting
only for a few days ; and the inland is ever f.umed by s*jme gentle breeze. It
is a popular saying that n<ithing ever falls overboard ; some gust catches your
hat and carries it back to deck. The sick, transported from the coast, speedily
recover, and hitherto the employe's have not known what sickness is, finally,
lest eternal perfection should become hateful, the occasional thunderstorms
arc of terrible violence. The solitary rock seems to attract them, like the Oil
Regions of the Unite<l States, where the tanks are ao often stnick and destroyed,
I enclose a Memoir f and illustrations, by M. Hanisch, of a Gewittcr, accora-
I>anied by a s.s.w. gale and diluvial rain, which broke over the island at
TM. 0° 45' on April 17, 1876. The "thunderbolts," discharged with a terrible
• I know only one city in Eum|)e, Rotterdam, where this figure is exceeded,
But the olintato of Trifste is not the only fiictor in the sum ; thf others are t!»e
vile hard water charRed with lime, nud the »t«te of the old Unvn, which lins
literally no drains. Tlie former evil can hardly bo remedied : there is no soft water
in the neighbourhood. The latter can hv wholly ehungod by widening to donWe
their breadth the androne, or cuU-de-^ir, ond tlie close alloys whioh represent
streets; by laying down sewers for the impuritic? which now fester in t)ie houses;
and by the gtneral "abolition of rookeries" — the latter foul aa the "ooudemuod
loailitiea " of Birmingham.
t " Wirkuogi'n eines Blitzseblagea anf der Inael Pelagosa." Eatratto dal
'BollcltiQO dcUe Scieoze natural!,' N. 2, Annutu ii. (Trieste, 187(>)>
I
184 Bchton'* Visit to Litsa and Pclagosa.
detonation amidst a sheet of viulet-coloured flame, eeem to bare fallen in
buuches, or gerbs. The ]>luliuiim point of the lightnin2-rod, IIG mfetres
above Bca-levcl, wa« fused for Italf of it* total length (three centimbtres),
without, liowever, the rest of tlie conihictor being damnged. A fragroent
from one of tlie stone stcjw was xtruck off, and the souib-westera angle of
the two outer walls wna bored through. We were shown a>i iron-bound
deal box, npon which the fluid had described the most curious figures;
whiUt another, containing tow, was carbonised externally, but its in-
fiamniable store remained uninjured. A hammer and a hatchet showed
llic line of passage, esjieciuUy at the edges, by fusion, which partly con'
verted the straight lines into funiforni excrescences about the size of ]>efts.
More curious still, the lijilituing jiassed diagonally through some twenty
cans of jjetroleuin, placed at different intervals, and Bciittorwl the com-
btistible contents without setting them on fire. Lastly, about 10 mitres
from the latter place the " thunderbolt" had discharged itself into the live
rock of fiiliciou» limestone, cutting a cleft half a mdtrc in depth. The
whole of thi» channel was carbonised to a sooty black, as though a mine had
been sprung.
During our utay at rel.igofla the weather was mostly gloomy, ajiparcnlly
threatening a (itonn, and tlie cm])loyt^s of the Ligbthouee dcclari-d that the
first tl.ish of liglitning woald drive them to the harcicke upon tlic lower plat-
form. In April the fir.st a.ssist.niit, who was standing upon the lower step of
the main door, wjis thrown to the ground, where he remained aeniseless, and
imconscions of the loud detonation. After a few minutes ho recovered, and
felt a dull pain in the right nrm, hip and foot, whith, however, soon diaap-
IHSired. Entering the building he found the wife of one of the light-watchera
creeping on all-fours, and almost out of her raiud with friglit. She also soon
recovered. The third assistant, who w.ts in the gmnnd-floor kitchen, near the
l>elroltimi-nia;:azine, conjplaiuetl of a lancing pain in the big toe of his right
foot; and a [kaintcr belonging to the house, though accustomed to the sprin;iing
of mincN, tied to the lower ludgings, and did not return home till compelled by
hunger.
The geological formation of Pelagoea is peculiar and exceptional as \\a
meteorology, di tiering from that of all its neighbours and uf the coast; and
showing within narrow limits an abnormal annnint of convulsion. The
Adriatic, trendint: north-west to south-east in a basin of nearly eijual breadth,
whose axis is snbtendfd on either side by sinjiliir orograjihic syntema, the
J^ihurno-Daluintian chain to the east, and the A|>ennines on the west; and
thus forming a gulf unlike any other in the Meditemiuean, is usuallj' dis-
tributed into three basins. A line of rocks and shoals jasses tlirough the
"Kfljola," relagoftii, Piamisa and the Trend ti Archipelago to the Tromontory
of Monte Gnrgano, whilst there is the deeiiest water to the north and south.
Our island forms apparently pnrt of a volcmic curve, iH>s3ibly a circle, whose
plutoniajn is hardly yet exlmustcd. To the north, Lissan Comisa sliows
diallaglte, au augitic pyrogenons alliance, which jirobnbly enters into the
formation of Ihisi Islarnl, and in the Ibnner place it supjiorts gyi>suni-lnxis,
which suggest that tlio direct action of sidphurous vapinrH lias converted the
carbonate into sulphate of lime.* To tiie k.N.k. is Meleda Island, whose
detonations, esi»cially those of 1823, 1824 and 1825, are now explained by
volcanic causes; eastward is Ragusa, where a terrible earthquake iu 16G7
buried some oO^O of the inhabitants ; the neighbouring islands are also
subject to this phenomenon, and the calcareous highlands of Dahnatia
when examined carefully will proliobly, like those of Svaia, show many
detached tracts of pkitouism. To the south-west again are the Tremiti
• In the Muscft Civico of Trieste are three drawers full of fossils and geo-
logical sjieciniens, in some of which this change may be noticed.
1
:
Bcbton'* Visit to Lissa and Pelar/osa.
structares analogous with Pclagosa: liere, on May 15th, 1816, an eruption
which lasted otily seven hours, throw up pumice stoues and sulphurous laraa.
The great ccutre of the movement may begin in the Aiwuninea bebiad
iHrgano.
Dr. de Marchesetti* ih di8i>osed to date the geDcsIx of Polagoaa to the
rost-crotaoeous epoch when th;> plutonic action of the Eugtuieaus, the Emilia,
Etruria andLatium, prolonged through the eoccnic oud mioceoic periods, gave
the Italian peninsula the cocligxiration which still di^stinguisbes it. Accoi^ing
to him, the j:reat depth of water around the rock would argue a sudden rise,
like the imfietuouB emerj^ence of the Li bur no- Dalmatian rangtes in the
cretaceous ejxich, Tliis perkxl, >is its strata prove, was one ot vehement
dislocations, pRiduciny irregular fissures with extensive and profound dis-
ruption, and contrasting strongly with tbo gentle upheaval of the Apennines
ia the poat-cretaceous age.f
The stmtographical succession is readily observed in the many transverse
sections of our island, which ia utterly destitute of the granite, gucias, tufa
(volcanic) and lava which were freely reported to exist. The strike of all the
strata is from iiorth-eust to south-west, ami the dip varies from the almost
horizontal to the quasi-iM<rpendiculnr. The base, shown along the whole
southern wall and in the north-western i>ight, is a fine-grained schist, blue,
and variegated, yullow-greenish, ami someliiues ochre-coloured, with oxides of
iron; a marly clay, showing frequent fucoid impressions, and splitting into
thin lamellar atnita with signs of deoomjiosilion. In ascending order upon
this formation, e8|iecinlly on the southern |*art of the island, rest beds of
gypsum, granular in the lower, and fibrous in the higher port, the upjior
limit bt'ing uudeliued aud jhassiiiji; insensibly into the overlying maruose beds.
But the mass of the island is a calcareous breccia, a rock which suggests that
the disturbing actiun, at the cluse of ita existence, was sudden and powerful.
The fragments of the once-coutinuous calcareous strata have been comminuted
into every possible shajx.' ; and compacted by a tenacious dotomitic paste before
the angles were bluuted. This breccia, suBiciently hard to strike fire,
contains a qiiaiitity of true siles : the colour is dark brown, and the crevices
are filled with red clay ; in places there is a partial crystallization or vitrifica-
tion of the strata, which look as if revetted with obsidian. Nodules of volcanio
petinite (retinasphalte) were found both in the breccia and in the nullipore
limestones. The only fossil was an ammonite, whose septa had been obli-
terate<l, rendering the .sjwcies undeterminiible. We also collected fragments
of blue sandstone like steatite, and of sandstone enclosed in banded limestone,
the c<jmmon effect of calcareous deposition. The breccia in the north-western
boy is dyked with a line of yellow clay, like the " Cimento" of Pola.
In the central part of the ii^land, the continuity of this breccia is interrupted
by a large fissure trending cost — west aud presenting strata of different
materials. These, beginning from below, are two beds of rod schistose clay,
dipping gently from south to north, and separated by a layer of greenish
schist. They are overlaid by two strnta, as n.sual, rich in fossils. The
lower, varying from 1 to 2 metres in thickness, is an ocbraceous conglomerate
of Pleiocenic age, showing Venus, Ostrea, Pocten, and other mollusks, with
iiulli[)ore8. The upper,J measuring 2 to 5 metres, a granular limestone of
* My companion read a valuable and highly applauded paiier on Pelagtwa
Itefore the Sociela di Seionze Naturali iu Trieste (Nov. 6th, 187G), and it appeared
in extoiiso in the ' Bolkttinn' of Jim.-Feb., 1877.
t Similar signs of n riicular wave vf elevation, probably beginning at Monte
■Garguiio, are t<i ho (ouml in the stnitificatiun of Pfismnn and Zuri Islands, near
Sebeiiico, but the distimee is t<io gn-at to conuGct theso with Pula^osa.
I Xot the lower, as OAsertod by Dr. G. Stuche, " (ieologiscbe Notizen ii1x;r dio
Insel Pelagosa," p. \2'}, ' VerLandhmg der k. k. geolog. Hoichsanstalt,' 187U.
I
BxrsetGS's Visit to Lissa and Pda^oga,
chalky and tufoccoiis aspect, and coiitamlng mostly beltx, outcrops upon the
Burfiice, and we shall trace it from tho Caiiu, or quarry to tho very 1«mu of the
Oasttillo, This upper mineral, evidently much more motlum than the other,
must be referred to the diluvial e]X)cli.
The breccia which comfioses the charpenie of the island culminates in the
Castello, where it becomes darker, more flinty, and more horaogcueous. The
two lower courses of the lighthouse are built of this refractory mAterial,
which blunted the tools, nnd which proved so expensive that the Contractor
preferred importing his limestone fn>m " SjUjot" (liraziEa), the quarry used
for Diocletian's jwlace at Spalato. About the junctuj-e uf the first and seooud
ratniw of the .snort zig^a^ the breccia is traversed by a vein of the Ioobb
Eoceiiie sandstone called, in Ititria, Tnsello, Masfgno, and Crostello. Near
the aiiex the breccia becomes more jiorous, and it supplies the island with
what little i<oil it has.
Botanically considered, alw), we arc here in a Kmall new world, of which, as
yet, no satisfiictory examination ha.s been made. The first Gommiasion, com-
poscsl of the Councillor Muzio de Tommasini, Professor von Syrski, formerly
ousto.s of the City Museum, ami Si<r. Michele Stossicli," reached the island OQ
September 23rd, 1875. Dr. dc Marchcsetti's visit was in Sipteinlwr 26-29,
1876. Tims tlic favourable season was mi.>*sed on Itoth occasions ; nnd only
dilcttatili have made collections during the most propitious limes.
Briefly to sketch the broad features of the Pela,;o8!in flora. There h an
absolute want of tho trees and grejtarious shnibs of the Dalmatian and the
Diomudean iblancis : we look in vain for the ilieos and jnnipors, the Illyrian
oliveworts and arbutt (^ititcth = corhrzz'jio)f the rock-r»«ses or cisti, and the
crica.s, which form the greater Jiart of the ncigldxuiriii;^ vegetation. The
area is confined, and the flora is not easily recruited fruni abrotid ; hence the
predominance of the families best suited to tho spot, and the small variety of
forms. The rough and rijoky soil also limits the extension of gregarioua
plants; and favours the difl"uaion of growths which, desjasing such hardships
as, for instance, the spray that ilashes over the Pharos-top, can climb the rock
and thrive upon the scanty luniius of its fissures. Moreover, characteristically
poor in annuals, it is abuonnally rich in bulbe, esjiccially squills and wild
garlic : f in places where the soil favours, they grow at the smallest possible
intervals. A new species, discovered by my friend Cav, I'ommasini, wa»
named by him Ornithofjalum Visiauii (Tommasini), after the " illustrions
Father of the Dalmatian Flora," and has been described by Dr. de Marohesctti
(Joe, (it.). On the other hand, the Fl(/ra rupestn, which presents a certain
variety, is noteworthy for its alliance with the Dalmatian and Apulian
growths. An adherent white tomentum mostly clotlies the leaves, and two
Bjieciefl are e8j)ecially characterised by limited diffusion. These are (I) the
Centanroa Friderici, of which more presently, and (2) the brossicaceoii.s
AbysHum leucadeum ; the latter absent from Dalmatia, but abundant in the
Tremiti and in the adjoining mainland of Japygia (Apidia).
It may be noted that the few trees are never allowed to survive babyhood.
We found a fig rising to 6 feet on the southern shore, the true wild-olive (0/«»
EurojKm), the vino run wild, and the bay (^Laurtis nobiliti), especially in the
hoUow mouth of the Castello ; while here and there flourished a solitary bush
of blackberry {liuhm amcevus, rovo moretto, or moro spino), and a flexible
Dioecorca (tamarro = Tamtia communis). The growths which at once attract the
eye are the Absinthium (^ArtemiuM arhorescfna), congener of the Arab " shlh,"
Bweetcst of duscrt herbs, which is consiiicuous for its absence from the neigh-
* Sig. Stossieh published an " Excorsionc noli' Isola d> Peligoia," p. 217. ' Uollet.
della Sfic. Adriatica di Soienre Nut.' for 1875.
t Tho effects of eating tlie laitot are notable, as in Tibet.
bourin'^ archipelago ; and the Cap|iaris, with bloom as bright as the Passion-
tiuvver, a leaf metallic ns the l|lomcD)^ and a ruot which will split even a Roman
wall. There are also Bolitarv bushes of Itnla hntdeosa, CoroHiUa tinerna, thu
malviiceousi>'//r/t/'c/ itrlM/rra, the Convolvv' "n, the holly-like Rvscub
aciileutas, the Pistuchia hiiKscttH (rare), tli i dandruidea, imitating
dwurled Chinese trecji, au(3 tho wild kapii/. (^ii/i/vsiaj Dottn-i), bitter, but
(Hlibic when new grown and well boiled. In the hollow north ot the Pharos,
well Hhellored frouk the tyrarmical Hcirocco. our botaui8t,4> collected Stutice
CftncelhUa, Vrithinuin maritimtim, Suturda /ructicosa, Olbioiif porliihii\iUks,
and l.oluH cytiwitks, Thefreqiieiil spray-showera have thickened the jtduuclcH
of Picridiiwu viilgare, imniwliately under iho tlowcr; and the Silene inflata,
condemued to live in crevices, hius liecomo gibbous with fre<|ucut knot^ and
fleshy leaves, like one of the Cnkaulacesw, As on the other islands, the
Ceataiu-eii Ragusina lights up with its silvery leaves and golden flowers the
dull and melancholy nakcdae&s of the rock. The rich brown humus, which
clothes the gentler slojicH and cumiaratively riant tracts to the north, pro-
dncca a tail asphodel with branches like cttiulelftbrii, and yellow and rosy
corolka: tliis is the Asdyet el-llai (Shephcrd's-staQ) of the Libanus. lt«
inaicjica radicc, like that ol the aruju, is or was (n«.;cording to Fortis, II,
1, § 2) ])uunded into a farina, niakiii;^ the worst of bread, by the poor, who
also support life by Iwiled iuui]ier-lwrries. Here also were found the large-
bulbed wjuills (.S*. nviritini'i), Seuecio (cjas«(/b/i»M), n tliin Funiaria, I'apaver
(xettgi-ruiii), the Piumitio or Lagurus (^omtus), Cernithis (cwy^em), and Jii»-
quianua (nlhu»). On the more fertile imrUi sirow OhryKantheiuum {corouitiiuni),
the Mutthiulft (incniiu), n red crucifer liK.'ally and erroneously calletl " viola," •
the eternal Clyjieola (fiMittiuio), wboho white flowers even near Trieste likst
almost throughout the ye.'^r, and n little {;recn heliotrojie {H. EnroiMum,
Viir. ?), which some would identify with the aunllower of Ovid.
The want of rain limitK the variety and tie <;rowth of messes ; of these only
two were noticed — a liiirbula and a Hypiium. Ijesa nire are the lichens,
eapcciftliy the common lithophils of Istri.t and Daluiatia, e.g. Vtrrucuria
jHirpurugcms, which lights up the rock ; Uamalliua and a Kocella, the latter
abundant. 'I'he algous vegetation, nuUijiores, sarjiaasum, corallines, &c., is
well develo|)ed, as the reader will find from Dr. de Marchesetti'-s cat4ilogvie.
Rabbits have been found on Little Pelagosa; none on the main feature,
whose only mammals are im])orted rats and mice: at times a " sea-bear "f
enters the baylet to the north-west. Migratory birds liere rest for a few
hours; and, during the season, often dash themselves agtiinst the Pharos:
woodcock and quail are the roost cimmon. Of the residents we observe the
KI)ftrrow-hawk.s, called Mangia-galline (" Hen Harriera "), hovering in the air ;
a few common gulls iii the ofliin;,', and solitary stone-birds (Munticola
cyanea '{) and water-wagtails (^Mi)hwitla), Poultry apparently di>es not
thrive, piBsibly because here, as in Iceland, the cereals are absent. The only
imiwrlaut avi-fauna are the " Diomedean birds " (Strabo VI. 3, § 9), concern-
ing which fio mauj .strange tales are told ; Pliny (X. 44) calls thera
" Cataracta,** a name still a[iplied to the Skuas; and Ihey are figured and
described by Aldovrando (Uistoria, etc., Jotu-. III. pp. 57-02). But whilst
Pliny makes his Aves Diomedem % resemble coots, Ovid (Met. XIV. ^')'i,
603) declares that, though not swans they are likest white swans ; and thu8
nar rates the fate which betel the companions of famous Diomode :
* No true violet waa obaerred.
t The common seal (Phoca vitulina), by the Slavs colled Medved, and the
Italiiina Orso di Mare: in Portugiicso Madeira it bccuuies Lobo de Mar, or "sea-
wolf."
t Linnorus poetically named " Diomodroa csulans," the albatross, a bird
unknown to cloAsioul Iiter&ture.
168 BuutonV I'mt to Lism and Pdarjona
" Vox rnriter, Tocisque via e»t tenuata : comcqno
In plumaa ulx-utit : pluiuU uova coUu Icguntur,
Peoloraqtic, et tergum : mnjores bnichin ]a-nnas
Accipiunt, cuMtique levea einiiantur ia ala&
MagDA i^e^liuu «li^itua pare occupnt: oraque oorau
Iiulurutft ligeut, fiut'iuque in ucumine ponunt."
Stuffed s|ieciinens of this Lnriis (?) • were shown to us ; gall-liko Conns,
with brown contA and bent bills. Tho Italiiuia call them Gabbiani : the
Slavs ftp{>ly tlic term Kaukalc (lial. Cociile) to llie lar^^-er kind aud Uregole
to the siiiatlur bird. Their wailing cry is tluit of a child — vagitua infnutis
siniilis — and tiicy are caught by swarming up the rocks at night with
torches or limed ixiles, a dreadful trade, as is such binlin^ everywhere.
The lighthoiiBC erujtioyds produced spirit-specimens of a scorpion and a mon-
strous lizard with tbreo tails: the original ajipendago had been supplictl with
a second which had bifurcated : they had also two snakes, ooe dark brown, tha
other lit up with greenish-white, and showin'^: a triangular head, but no fangs.
This lacerlinc coluber (Cxlopeltis insignitug, Geoff.)i which some have turned
into a new species, Creloi>cltis Neumeyeri (Verzeich. p. 57, Vienna Museum)
is common in Dalinatia and Greece. The lizards, wliich are very numerous,
are supposed to be of one s[-«cie8 (L. viridis); but we noticed a second,
Apparently differing in colour and markings from the common green-yellow.
Then are sundry sjiecies of spider*, amongst which is a large Lyoosa : cen-
tipedes, beetles, and grassbop[)ers are also numerous. The ground in places
is covere<i with land-shells, esficcially Ilelix, Clausilia, Pupa, and Bnlimus.
M. Topich sent me a <<plendid sixicimeu of a fossil univalve. M. tliinisch
has collected a drawer full of "moulds"; mostly Ilolix. I have also seen
the PectuncuUis (jielosus '?) of huge size, and splendid sjiocimens of Venus.
The fish require especial study : the staple article is the Sardine, whose mortal
«aenues, t^ shark aud the dolphin, are never far oQ*.
Part III. — LMe Pelagom.
MM. Marcliesetti and Stossieb, iutent upon collecting beta*
nieal specimens, took boat from the '• Zulo," and visited Male
(Little) I'elajrosa, the seeojid largest Icature ol' the miniature
archipeliigo. TJiis lumpy dome, lying to the east of the " Velika,"
well illustrates tlie Itixnriance of local nomenclature. The Slav
and other lishermi/n have given at least a liundred names to
the whole group. The northern bay of tiie rockU^t, for instance,
is Po<l-nioIu (I'ur nialu), *' under tho Little." To the 8uuth are
the Bights of Popina, " the place of a Pope," and of Luk,t or
wild garlic. East lies Mevisdina, or ''^he-bear" (i.e. seal)
■" Bay ;" and Itasenj-rot.J or Piinto Hpiedo, projects from the
western flank. I cannot but suggest that " Bogaso Grande,"
opposite Spit-point, is the Turkish Bughaz, a pass.
* Wo neglected to borrow one, having l>eQn told that many wore in the Husenm
of Trieste, whieh pmv«d not to be tho fact. It wilt Iw snmo time before this
mistake t-an he rcpuired.
t Luk is evidently u congener of tho German " Lauch," a relation to our
"leek"
X Local misproDunciatiou for Ra2aTija-nit, or lUasting-epit PoiaL.
The only sig:n of old human occupatiou noticed by the
visitors was a vedette Hke that upon the Cjistello-tlank. The
oval of rude stones, some 6 met res by 4, and strewed with sea-
sand about 1 foot deep, crowned the central and highest part of
the dome, Attaetied to its cn^st is a trian;;uh\r offset of the
usual (erriccio nero, or dark malm, which may consist of animal
and vegetable debris : fragjmcnta of pottery nowhere appeared.
The geology and botany of the rocklet were more interesting
than the vedette. Whilst the line of outliers ranged to the
west of Great Pelagosa appear in shape and substance, dip and
strike, to prolong the main cliine of limestone, those of the
opposite flank present a notable contrast. Already in the
eastern part of the rock appears a yellow-red marne, which
splits into lamina? witFi parallel fai-es, much resembling the
Argilh scagltose of the Eroiliii, which appeara in Tuscany, and
in other parts of Itidy, but ia nowhere Known in Fstria and
Dahnatia. This formation is geueraily held, in Italy and else-
where, to be the solidified remains of the suhe, or boiliug muds
vomited by the Apennines at the end of the Cretaceous, and
before the setting in of the Tertiary, j>eriod. The distinguished
Professor G. Gapelliui, ex-Kector of the Bologna University,
refers them to a process of metfimorphism by means of gaseous
exhalations and thermal spriii;^. Their signs of vidcanism, the
want of fof^sils and of regular stratification, the frecpvent hornito-
liko openings, jxs if caused by gaseous explosions, the broken
surfaces, and their aspect of desolating sterility, are described
by my illustrious friend, now unhappily no more. Professor
G. G, Bianconi, in his ' t^toria Naturale dei Terreni Ardenti.'
Tliis eharncteristic marne i.s still better developed in the
rocks off Little Pelagosu, and renders the section of the latter
very interesting. The dorsum which culminates to some 50
metres is.comjiosod of the calcareous breccia which cluiiracterises
the whole group; whilst a fissure, varying in breadth from
30 to 40 metres, and splitting the dome from south-east to
north-west, is tilled with the porous and tufhceous, the uniform
and pnltaceous mass, of rosy ting^, containing h quantity of com-
minatcd flints and limestone flakes. The parts richest in silex,
and where its fragnu-nts are of tlie largest size, are those
resting immediately upon the calcaire : from the centre of the
rocklet, where is the greatest depression in the fissure, these
debris are almost absent.
Despite the name Lnk, plants were comparatively rare on
Ivittle Pelagosa, which showed only a modicum of wild garlic.
The rorklet, on the other liand, (;an l>oast of two spei'ies which
are distinctly its own ; and the uiarvei is that they never sought
a home on its congenial soil by crossing the few yards of sea
Temple'* Account of the Country/ traversed hy the
separating them from the main formatiou. The lii'St is the
Cenhiiirea Friilf^riui, discuvorod by rrolessor Botteri, and
named, by rmfcssor Visiani of Padna, after the late Fre<lerick
Augustus, the botany-loving King of 8uxony. It resonibloa the
Centaurea Diomedea <»f the TrHmiti, discovered by Professor
Gasparriui. It is said to be found upon the almost inaccessible
Poiuo (Jabuka) Ilo<'k ; and its leaves, like other congeners of
the Gentian subclass, suggest a superior tonic '* bitter." Again
the Anthyllis barba-Jovis is found u^-jon tho Little but not on
the Great I'olagosa ; and Convolvulus oueorum, so comiuou iu
the former. ap]>eared only in one spot of tbo latter.
After four diiys of pleasant retreat beyond wars and ruraourai
of wars, we left the lighthouse with cordial thanks to our
hospitable and attentive hosts, M. M. Topich. The only serious
fault of our second visit to Lissa was its short duration ; and
here we bade a temporary adieu to our friends, with a " Hip,
hip, hurrah" a VAngiai^e^ that seemed to revive the memories
of more stirring times. Tho good ship La Pdarjosa got up
steam on September 27, and in twonty-four hours wo had
covered the 220 miles sepiu-ating Lissa from Trieste.
III. — An Account nf the Country traversed by the Second Column
of the Tal—Cho'tiali Field Force in the Sprim/ of 1S79. By
Lieut. K. C Temple, F.n.o.s., m.r.a.s., iSrc, I5engal 8tafl'
Corps ; lately attached to the Ist Goorkha Light Infantrj'.
[With Map.]
I. — Introductory.
ScojH! of Ohservation. — As by the rules of this iSociety the
auth«jrs of papers are held solely resiHinsible for their contents,
the present writer thinks it advisable to make a statement of
the circumstances under wliich the inquiries resulting in these
notes were made. When (Tencral liiddulph wns directcfl to
return with his force from Candaliar to India by the unknown
Tal Cho'tia'li route, he divided it into three eolumus. The first
under Jlajor Keene, Lst Punjab Lifantry, with Major Sandeman
as political officer, prereded the remainder by sume diiys, and
eventually reached Luga'ri' Prn'rhltan vt'd Tal and Cho'tia'Ii
through tho Han Pass ; Major Sandenuin and his personal
escort, however, went through tlio Ma'r Pass more to tho west-
ward. The se<'.ond column, under Col. Sale Hill, 1st Ck>orkhas,
with Col, Browne. R.E., as political officer, which General
■
J
I
•'•^•**t **^* AwWVfl
'. 191
iirstas
I Bo'tai
aulang
rexxem
(B way.
>rkhas,
oppor-
jie first
. could
p sach
round.
fits for
is were
diitiec^
>iintry,
irefore,
[^ must
.cullies
^places
iations
a.ce by
I to be
tt pro-
» as it
Tillage
znitive
"by its
8 own.
to its
pecu-
ty six
name,
, lection
rict in
by its
Dnames
th the
Des is
&scer-
3 ima-
: never
tifused
r on the
: Sodety
s
d
a
A
C
C
£
ti
tl
ti
tl
o
h
fi
b
fa
CK
si
i:
ai
tt
tb
n<
r6
Tl
ui
as
ei
tfa
ea
wi
I
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tiaHi Field force in 1879. 191
Biddulpli liiinsL'lf anoompanietl, followed tlie sleiis of tlie first as
far as Baia'nrti, and then divergeil eastwards along the lio'rai
Valley, and finally reached Luga'ri' T3a'rklia'n via the Tsiimaulang
Valley and Han I*as8. The third column, imderBrigadier-GeneraJ
Nuttftll, came Itvst, following the route of the fii^st all the way.
The anthnFj. being at that time attiichcd to the 1st Goorkhas,
was with the second column, and its ho has since had no oppox'-
tunity 'of obtaining information regarding the doings of the first
and third, his notes are necessarily limited to what he could
observe during the march of the second column, and to such
information us he could pick up en route about the country round.
Seooiidly, he could not in any way make arrangements for
elaborate observations, and those embodied in these notes were
made at such odd times as he could spare from his military duties,
which, of course, on the line of maieh in an enemy's country,
were incessant. His observations and sketch-maps, therefore,
being perforce hurriedly and roughly made and compiled, must
be taken for what they may hereafter prove to be worth.
Plnee Names. — As regards place names special difficulties
were encountered, from the multiplicity of names certain places
were found to have, and the great variety of pronunciations
of the same word. The name adopted for any given place by
the writer in his account and maps is that which he fouuti to be
the most generally known according to the commonest pro-
utmciation, and the spelling adopted represents tlie name as it
appeared to sound to hiai.* The Pathau system of village
nomenclature, and for that matter the Belu'ch also, is primitive
in the exfrerae, for a viHage is called as frequently by its
owner's, or by the tribal names of its inhabitants, as by its own.
But this system, though primitive and natural enough to its
framers, is far from being simple, and to the foreigner is poju-
liarly puzzling, for a village may be, and often is, called by six
diflerent names. Thus it may be called (1) by its own name,
(2) by the tribal name of its inhabitants, (3) after the subsection
of the tribe inhabiting it, ( 1) by the name of the district in
which it is situated, (5) by its present owner's name, (G) by its
late owner's name, if recently dead ; the more specific names
being naturally known only to those best acquainted with the
village in question. Ami when to this confusion of names is
added a great variety of pronunciation, the difficulty of ascer-
taining the proper name of any paiUcular place may be ima-
gined— a ditlieulty increased by the fact of these names never
being committed to paper by their users. It is to this confused
* The filaee names otc nmro fully discuased in tho Popcr by the author on the
inhabitants of theao distrk-ts, published iu the ' Jounial of the Asiatic Hociety
of Bengal,' for 1S80.
192 TempleV Account of the Country traversed by the
nomenclature that tlie various names found on maps and ia
accounts by diflTereiit writei's for the same phice is attributalile.
Akvng t}»e border bt^tween the Afghan and Belo'ch tribes
double names are found, Afp;han and Belo'cb, for well-known
places. Thus Ka'Ii' Chuppri' (Belo'eh) and Tor Tsappar
(Patlian) are names for the same prominent peak at the head of,
the Han Pass, buth sipnilying the Black Hill.
A noticeable iwitit also ia the constant recurrence of tJie sarne
names, especially for districts and hilts, in diflforent parts of the
country. This is probably due to the fact of the places being
so named from some peculiarity or special conformation.
Uncerfainiy of Information. — The difficulties of obtaining-
correct infonnatiou were aggravate*! by the fear of the various
tribes of each other, their ignorance corresponding with th«ir
fear. And this addt/d to the well-known vagueness of a\\'
oriental information resulted in one's being seldom able to
obtain any knowledge, except of the vaguest and most uncertain
kind, of any part of the country before actually passing over it. '
Careless Nomenclature lij Explorers. — It may be as well to»j
remark here on the careless way many exj)lorers name the
places and encampments at which tliey halt — a habit that
renders the identification of places on their dilTerent routes-
very difBeult, and their information liable to be useless, as
will be seen by a rel'erenoe to Appendix D, attached hereto.
That it is not easy to avoid misnaming places in such a
country as Afghanistan may be gathered from the foregoing
paragraphs, but unquestionably carelessness us to this point
adds much to the diiticulties of geographers and othera who
have to compile the results of the accounts of travellers, or, in
other words, to make them of use. A case in point is the- :
naming by the Qnartermaster-General's Department of the
camping-ground preceding Chimja'n along the Tal — Cho'tia'li
Field Force Itoute. This is given as Oboskoi in their niap^
Now O'bushtkai (also spelt Obnski by the staff) is where tho
first column halted, and is not within 4^ miles of the point so
marked on the map. viz., where the second and third columns
halted, which was really at a place called Khw&'ra,, as shown in
the writer's map. Again the Quartermastei-General's Depart-
ment's map of tlie route shows Yusuf Kach in the llivcr Ito'd
Gorge as a camping-ground, and not I'sab Kach (or I'saf
Kach), although it had been expressly pointed out by their
own Department (^lackeuzio's Houte, in 'Central Asia,' Part
II.; 'Afghanistan,' Route No. 35) that the name was I'sab
Kach, not Yusuf Kach. The difference in these names may be
better expressed in English : thus, I'sab, I'sav. or I'saf = Esau ;
Yusuf = Joseph. Altliough the writer differs in severul
Second Column of the Tal—CUv'tidli Field Force m 1871). 193
important particulars from the Army Staff and other autho-
rities in his nomenclature, he does not pretend to absolute
correctness as to this point, but would merely put forth a claim
to carefulness.*
The Ted — Cho'tia'U B&uie considered as a route. — Attached to
this (Appendix A) will be found a detailed journal of each
day's march, and it is proposed here to discuss the Tal — Cho'tia'U
Boute only as a route. Now a route may be practicable
or otherwise according to the nature of its roads, riyers,
mountains, passes, climate, products, inhabitants, and means
of locomotion. Each of these points will be here therefore
considered.
II. Spelling of. Place Names.
System of Spelling adopted. — But before proceeding further,
and in order to render the following pages the more intelli-
gible, an explanation of the system of spelling the names of
places and foreign words found herein will be given. The
spelling adopted purports to be according to Dr. Hunter's
modification of Sir W. Jones's system of transliteration. The
Hunterian system is, however, not strictly carried out, the only
diacritical marks used being that to mark the long vowels, and
the "italic" sign to mark certain peculiarities in the con-
sonants. The object aimed at is general intelligibility, not
strict scientific spelling.
Table of Sounds. — The following table of vowel and con-
sonantal sounds will aid the general reader in mastering the
system of spelling herein employed.
Pabt I. — Vowels.
Vowels.
Sounds.
a
As in woman, or as n, in Iiut.
a'
„ fothor.
e
„ met.
o'
„ feto, or as a, in mate.
i
„ ftt.
i
„ oblique, or as oe, in meet.
0
„ opaqua
o'
„ mole.
u
„ put, or as 00, in foot.
„ brute, or as oo, in food.
u'
ai
„ atsle, or as i, in mile.
au
As ou, in bouse, or as o«r, in owl.
6
As the French u, or German o.
♦ Tlie points of difference are discussed in his Paper on the inhabv<t»xA& ^sl
these districts, publiehed in the 'Journal of the Asiatic ^\fe\^ ol 'QeiiQ^ \%^.
VOL. XLIX. O
194 TEMPLE'jf Account of the CourUry traversed hj the
Many of the vowel sounds are such as cannot be rendered in
English characters. The common termination ai is very
peculiar : it is pronounced willi a closed mouth, and sharply as
one syllAhlo, though probably it sUoidd be two distinct syllables,
a i. Many people write it ce.
Eat^i vowel syllobio should be {jronouneed, but for the sake
of clearness the distinct syllables 6 and /, when occurring as a
termiaatiou iu juxtaposition, are written 6L
Part 11, — ContonanU.
OooMHuata.
Soumit.
h
Aflinbcat
bh
„ cIiibAoUiio.
ch
„ cAarger.
d
„ doll.
dli
„ mucZ/mt
dli]
Vcrjr hard varieties of the above = the Plindoet. ^ and H^.
f
As in/onnd.
9
., fin-
glx
„ loj/Aut.
!7''
A veiy gnttural g = Arabic C.
Aa III AouBt*. w
h
h
1 A sharp finul aspirate, as la Jebova7t, usually not heard in Engliah
\ proDUDciittion.
ji
Afl in jump.
„ bri(J;/«/iead.
k
,, fcin-r.
fch
„ public/ioosc.
hh
,, GkiTnnn milcA, or Scotch lodi= Arabic ,».
„ Tnnd. *^
1
m
„ miud.
n
„ ftnw.
A
Nasal, a« in French on.
P
Ab in jjiunp.
pi,
„ tiiuii/>/miidle.
•ill
„ gwoen.
r
„ robbery ; it is always rolled.
r
A very Imrd cerebral r, almost a d = Hindost.^.
As in «in^.
a
sh
„ *rJ(OW.
t
„ funnel.
Ih
„ ra/Aole.
y
V
Very hard vaxietiefl of the BboTe=Hindoet. Cj and *^.
As ia very.
y
„ wiuff.
s
„ rebra.
ih
The French y, aa jnje=Uie rersion ».
ng
As in flinr;.
1
Bouble consonants all eacli distinctly pronounced tis in the
[talian tiitti.
CowiKirative Table of llunteriaii and Phonetic S})dling. — In
order to aid in the ictentifieation of the names occurring here
with those in other journals nud maps, a cimipanitive table is
attached (Appendix C), showing the spelling of place names
according to the Ilunterian and the ordfinary military {dionetic
gyfitems. Accentuation has not been eliown in tbo spelling, as
not being of sufficient importance, and all oriental words used
iu the paper are explained.
III. Roads.
Aff/han Roads in general. — Fii"8tly, then, as regards roads.
It is necessary before discussing them to explain what is meant
by the term " road " when applied to Afghanistan. Ruughly a
" road " may be defined as a beaten track leading to a certain
place ; and, like all oriental tracks or roads, it runs as straight
as possible to the point aimed at, without reference to gradients
and obstacles, or to easier and more practicable lines near at
Iiand. jVs the only means of locomotion, besides walking,
which the Afghans have are horses, donkeys, and bullocks, to
which may bo added, along the main trade-routes, camels, no
such thing as a wheeled conveyance being known in the
country, a mountain road or track is capable of being, and
indeed usually is, a very rough one. WTien asked to describe
the nature of a track, the local mountaineer will describe it as
practicable for sheep and goats and man only, or for donkeys
and bullocks, or as too narrow in the case of a pass for pack-
animals ; under all of which conditions a road will be considered
bad. But if a horse or pack-animal can traverse it, then the
track is called good, or, to use the local expression, " a royal
road." Now, a reference to the map of Eastern Afghanistan
mil show it to consist of mountains of considerable height,
intersected by numerous valleys of no great length or breadth.
80 that such a track as that above deseribedj from any one
distant point to another, will alternately cross a series of moun-
tain tracts and vaUeys by the shortest practicable route. And
iu travelling what one finds practically is this, that one goes
first along the bed of a mountain torreut, then over the (Ko'tal)
Eass or watershed whence it springs, then down a second stream-
ed on the opposite side, and then along a valley; which
operation is repeated to the journey's end. Sucli then is an
Afghan roafl, and, as long as a horse or i)ack-animal can traverse
it, one road is as good as another, and the only considerations
which will make an Afghan gviide diverge from the shortest
o 2
106 Temple'* Account of the Country traversed by the
way are, (I) the fear of the inhabitants, and (2) the water-
supply en route. A main rojid or line of comrauuication differs
iu no way from any other " imck-animal " road, except that it
usually coueists of Iialt'-a-dozen or bo of tracks running across ')
country in iiarallel strintTs, \j,x\% this u not always an iufalliblo
indication, us the writer i>nce fuiuid to his cost. He Btarted
with a convoy from the Kabul gate of Candaha'r for Kela't-i-
(JAilzai, and on getting clear of the broken iand imniediatch"
round Candaha'r, went along a road consisting of a quantity of
parallel tracks, which formed to all appearance the Kabul
rortd, but found they terminated abruptly at a village about
5 miles out, between whicli and Candaha'r tliere was a large
trade, and had to iind the real Ka'bu! road across country —
which, by the way, provided there are no impracticable ravines
to interrupt him, is about as good a way for the traveller to go
in this country as any. "\Mien a traveller or army has followed
any particular line, it means not that that was the best or
easiest, though it was probably the shortest, road, but that it
was the line decided on from limo to time according to infor-
mation received regarding water, people, supplies, the actusJ.
state of the track at the time, and so on.
lioada aloiiff iheEonte of ihe Tal — Cho'iia'li Field Force {second
columii), — Jlanng said this much by way of preface, let lis
discuss the line followed by the »x'ond column Pal — Cho'tia'li
Field Force with regard to its a<"tua! Btat<' and its capabilities
of improvement. Leaving Kala Abdulla/i Khn'n, thu road runs
at firrit nearly eastwards, along the north end of the Pi-shin
Ytdley to iTAu'shdil Kha'it, for about 30 miles, during which,
as it stands, it may generally be called bad in anything but
fine weather, i.e., it is a track ninning across a country for the
most part stony and water scarce, and intersected by several
streams, of \Nhicli the Kliujak, the Aranibi, the Clior, the
T6ffha\, the Muzarai, the Pishin Lo'ra, and the Barso' arc all
capable of proving formidable obstacles after rain. The country
itself is liable to be violently flooded after rain in the hills, and
in the lower lands the soil is clayey, heavy and slijipery in wet
weather. And yet the line taken by the force is the best, for
the alternate routes from A'li'zai via Bagarzai to A'Au'siidil
Khn'n runs further from the hills, and the rivers, instead of
being mere mountain-torrents with hard stony beds, have
become formidable streams, with deep, overhanging, soft and
clayey banks. There are, however, no real engineering diffi-
colties along the route, nor would largo bridges be required for
the rivers; a good road could in fact be easily constructed.
In the next 15 miles to Balozai Ka're'z the road goes over ,
Second Column of the Tal — Chdtia'li Field Force in 1879. 197
tbe Sural Pass and the hills about it. During the first clay's
march to Sharan Ka're'z it fulluws up the bed of the River
tSharan for tie greater part of the way, which is ag usual st-ouy
and hard, and not more than 20 yards wide in the narrowest
part, while the gradient is steep. Durinfi; the second day's
niarcli, till the bottom of the ]»a*8 is reached, the bed of another
stream is fullovved, the E-iver Snrai, similar in all respects to
that of the Sliaran, except that it is narrower, being ojdy
4 yards wide at the narrowest part. The summit of tiie pass,
whoso height above the head of the stream is much greater
than usual, is some 300 feet above the river-bed, and the hill-
side is steep. When the summit is passed the descent is simi-
lar to the ascent, viz., down a streann-bed into the Dof Valley,
along which the road runs for 4 miles to Balozai Ka're'z, cross-
ing the Kiver tSurAAa'b, which here is not a formidable stream
in jmy way. This road, while among the hills and where not
following the stream-beds, is rugged and hilly in the extreme,
and plainly only passable in tine weather, a very short fall of
rain rendering it temporarily impassable, A made road wimld
of course not directly follow the line taken by the army, bnt
should a ruad ever be required over the pas.s it does not appear
that the ditSculties would be great, and probably not more
than one bridge (over the River Surai, — PisLin side) would
be required. The facta that Lieutenant Wells, r.E-, made the
pass easily praclicable for camels in two days with the lielp of
some 6r/iilzai workmen at eight days' notice, and that (n-ueral
Biddul[>h on the march np to Candaha'r pfvssed ilown it without
any made road at all, would indicate that no engineering diffi-
culties need be apprehended here. After leaving Balozai Ka're'z
the Dof Valley is quitted in 3 miles, and from this point to /lAvva'm
in the Sho'r Valley, a distance of nearly 40 miles, a long belt
of mountainous country, for the greater part at considerable
elevations, is passed. Throughout this distance the road either
runs along the beds of various strcam.s, or over the hilly tracts
separating them. It traverses three passes in its course, the
Ush, the To'pobar<7/i and the Nangalu'na, but none of these are
of any difficulty. Tbe main watershed of the country is passed
on crossing the Ush Pass, /. e., all the water to the east of it
runs towards India and all to the west towards Afghanistan
S roper. The natural road along this moimtuin tract is nowhere
ifficult, and may be classed as fair throughout; but it should
be borne in mind that for the greater ]»art of the way it runs
along the beds of rivers, some of which, especially the liiver
Ro'd, are liable to sudden, high and viulent floods in rainy
weather, and are moreover of considerable length. There is
198 Temple's Acamnt of the Country traversed hy tlte
notliing apparently to prevent the easy ooiistruction of a good
road along this liue, nor wouUl niauy even small bridges be
necessary. So far the road has kept a nearly easterly coviree,
but during the next tract of country traversed its course is
about south-east, ami during the journey from Khwolro. to
Baia'nai, about 29 mile?, it runs mostly through flattisli valley
land, crossing tlio Sho'r and Mzami Valleys. In the former it
runs easily along stony ground, and the country in the latter is
luuipy, much intersected by deep stream-beds and troublesome.
The rivera crossed are the Kach, two or three times, and the
Ghv/azh, both of which, in the case of a mode road, would have
to be bridged, and the lirst is pretty broad A road along the
Mzarai Valley would also require a good many, and small,
bridges and culverts, with a good deal of earthwork and
cutting. The last 3 miles of tbe road into Baia'nai through
the Baia'nai Pass are decidedly bad, running as it does over
snijill hills or along narrow, rugged and stony valleys, inter-
sected by numberless nulhth-beds. It is doubtful, however,
whether it would be necessary to go through this pass, for it is
apparently easily turned to the east, past the villages of Kach
and Sarkai Zaugal, where the country is generally smoother
and easier.* Tbe next belt of country passed by the force is
all valley land to the Hannraba'r Pass, 50 miles; the road
running nearly due oust successively through the {?/iazgai and
Bo'rai Valleys, along which it is, for an Afghan road, good.
There are no engineering rlifticulties in the way of constructing
a made road, and the rivers to be crossed ai'O the Kach, which,
is broad, the Hanumba'r, also pretty broad, the Dargi', the To'r
A7mize, the Beh and the Lo'rat, all smidl streams. But on
nearing the Hanumba'r Pass, the meetiug-i>oint of all the
drainage of the Jio'rai Valley, tlie countiy becomes rough,
lumpy and liable to swamps, and the road along it is only a
fair-weather one. The rivera to be crossed are the Sia'b,
Marai, Sih/iM and Lo'raUxi, ail largish streams, showing signs
of considerable flooding ut limes, and in making a road hero
there would, no doubt, be some troublesome ground encountered.
From this point to the Han Pass, a distance of about tiO miles
to the south-east, the country crossed is a mass of wild njounlains
intersected by narrow valleys, and quite uniubabited. In thia
tract the road, which winds nbout a great deal, is Jaiily good in
the Hat valley lands, Init crosses several strcanjs uf the usual
description, viz., the rivers La'lci', Kutsa, Jarai, Tsamaulang,
• Id fact the beat rontc to follow from tlie Sho'r to tho Bo'iui ViJloy wotdd
a|)]iarontly Chimja'n to KacL, 15 luiles; K&ch to Kbi^'ad, 15 mOoa.
Second Column of the Tal—ChdtidU Field Force in 1879. 199
Hanokai, Kalian and Han, and is bad aod difficult in the moun-
tainous country, following as before the beds of streams. It could,
however, be made fairly passable with a few days' work any-
where, and there is nothing to prevent the construction of a
good road if necessary, but of course some bridging would have
to be done about the passes and over the rivers. The country
in the Hanokai Pass is the most difficult, and the gradient in
Han Pass is severe. The remainder of the road, which is
in Ba'rkho'm, runs into Luga'ri' Ba'rkha'u, 13 miles a little west
of south, and presents no difficulties, running along a broad,
flat valley.
The road then, as it stands, is, except in fair weather, for
the most part bud, and difficult for anything but persons on
foot or on anitnal-back, to coin a word, but does not anywhere
present any engineering difficulties, and could be matle fairly
passable without much labour.
Cotnpariaon with other Afyhan roads, — It should, however, be
borne in mind that the above description will answer fairly for
any road in Afghanistan, and that the road, for an Afghan one,
is not bad. The lino taken by the first and third columns of
the Tal — Cho'tiu'li Field Force ivill probably prove to be much
the same kind of road.
TaUe shomng State of Uoo^a.— The following table will give
an idea of the road stage by stage :—
From KALA ABDULLAIf KBX'N to
No.
8
9
10
SUgc.
Badwa'n
A'li'zoi
A'Au'ahdil Kha.'n
Shaiau Ea're'z
Bolozai Ka're'z
I'aaf Each
Ispira Ba'(7/ta
Chiiujtk'D..
Ituin'uai ..
in Slllra.
State of noail.
6
11
8§
9}
IG
I3i
6i
Bad, except in ftno vuather.
Good ill Hno wculliur, but trouble-
Bomc in bail,
lind, excejit in very fine dry weatlier.
As it ia, bttd, except in fine wciither,
but capable of being made good.
At pixBont good in fair wcatlMir
oiily, but capable of being easily
inado gixid.
GtKx!, but posses rivera liable to
Jloixls.
Fair, but requires ri guidf, and
runs along rirer liable to bigU
tloiHlfl.
Fair.
(jood and caHy.
In ttio Sho'r Valley easy ; in the
Mzarai Vallry troublesome, ■with
bad rivers; in lb»« Unia'uiii I'aaa
bad and iinpracticabk- ia any but
fine weatlier.
200 Temple** Account of the Ccnintry traversed hy th9
From KALA ABDULLAH KHA'N to
No.
Stigi".
lu Mile*.
Sum uf Uocd.
11
Ningn'nil
n
Goo«l, but requires a guide.
12
Wikrift'gai
12,
G(;od.
13
Shftmn
IC
Good.
14
Hftriiimbii'r Piwa ..
12
Fuir only in fine weather.
ir>
Tri/./i Kumm Pass
181
Good in Sarfl/inr Valley, bad eluf^
TV hcru, but c.i|)nbIo of being made
gncxl.
BimI, but cnpablo of being ea«i1jr
IC
Tsainaulang
IC
made gcKid.
17
Ba'kDhalm
11
YL'ry bud, but could be mado easy
in a lew duya.
18
Mi«Ai' Khu'i*» .. ..
IC
Steep, but Hot very diflletjU, and
caiwble of biing iiisily mode
good.
Good ill dry weullier. troiiblesoiue
19
Lnge'ri' Ba'rktia'n
I2i
in wet, being along Bon-dried,
clayey soil.
Excursions. — Ihirinp: tlic marcl* the author had three uppor-
tunitjes of making excursiona ofF the main road, and the
information gathered there supports the observations made
above regarding roads.
The first excursion was from Balozai Ka're'z southwards to
Gwa'I, 10 miles. Along this h'ne tlie road was simihir to the
above-describod valley road.s, except that it was better than
usual. It rrosscd the Gwa'I lliver, a variously named torrent
of the usual description, two or three times. The second was
from Gwa'I to U/r/nnoj?Mai Pass and A'inadu'n, 15 miles; the
object of thei-e e.xcurstims being to see if the gorge of the Kivei"
Eo'd could bi; turned tu the southwards. The route nins
through the (xuvMai Defile, i. e., along ibe bed of the river
forming it, and may bo there describud as passable, but re-
quiring engineering. As it in, it follows one bank or the other
all through the defile and is hilly and broken, in phices degene-
rating into a mcky mountain pathway, while the defile is not
more than itO yards wide in parts, and the river subject to high
floods. After this to the Vkhwutjhlmi I'ass the roa*l may bo
called fair and c!i}Kible of being easily niaile good, but it winds
about the Uiver Sugar, crossing it constantly, and this stream
is evidently cjuite capable of being an awkward torrent after
rain. The country passed is exceptionally wild, consisting of
fimall, conical, clay bills, among which the river winds with
turnings so sharp and frequent, that it is impossible to see
Second Column of the Tal—Gio'tia'H Field Force in 1879. 201
beyond a few yards at a time. After ihe pass, as. (tiv as
A'liiadu'n, ttie road is a lumyiy, but an easy one. The road
then, as a whole, is for a bridle-path fair, nnd is capable of
being ioivh a good one. It mts found, however, to be not so
good as the existing one via tlie River Ro'd.
The third excursion was undertaken from Chimjan to
ascertain the fuudttion of the roads leafling thence to the
^Ao'b Valley, and extended as far as the IVlkai Pass, north of
Chimja'n, about 8 miles. The road was found to traverse some
20 mdes of mountainous country separating tine Sho'r and
ZJw'h VaMcys, andt as usual, followed the bed of a river, the
River Znffhhin. The country passed was very rough, but the
road was, on the whole, fair. It is probable, however, that a
more praetinible line would be found along the Tarakai
Valley, leailing into the Zlio'h more to the eastwnrds.
Crons Boads. — Before leaving the subject of roads it would bo
as well to discuss the ulturnativo routes and cross roads passed
en route.
Qiu'tta, Pishin and Candaha'r Rotifes. — Numerous roads or
rather tracks, of course, lead to all parts of tho Pishin from
Quett;i, but the principal ones onJy need bo considered here.
From t^uetta a road runs, ind the Gazarbaml Pass, to (iulista'n
Ka're'z, whence roads branch oft' to the Gwa'ja, Ro^/m'ni* and
XAo'jak Passes. This is a good road throughout for this part
of the world. It is joined by a short cut from tfio JT/iOjak
Pass at Se'gai, which is also said to be an easy route. A
second road from Quetta to Grulista'n Ka're'z runs via A'Au'sh-
la'k and Shadi'zai, joining the other at tSe'gai, and turuiug the
Gaz Hills. From Qiietta also, vin /i/iu'shbi'k and No'a Ba'za'r,
an easy road runs to AVai'shdil Khor'n, which appears to have
been an old main line of comminiicaf iou.
Pishin to Zho7' Vtdle'j. — From 7i7m'shdil Khfi'n, or from
A'li'zai, via the A'Aa'nizai vilhiges in tho nortli-east curner of the
Pishin, a road runs through the A maud Klu/l and Mehtarzai
country, past Darsho'r ami jMount Kaud, into the Zho'b Valley.
This is also a main line, but its nature was not precisely
ascertained.
PiaJUn to the Eastward into the Dof and (heal I'ulkijit. — From
No'a Bft'za'r an easy practicnblo road runs over the Pinakai
Hills to Gwa'l, arid there are also mountain-roads from tho
same place to Gwa'l via the Uiver SurMa'b, and to Lu'r
Anga'ng in the Dof Valley. Also from Sharun Ka're'z the
* The Rog/ia'ai is a seldom-used pass between the Gwa'ja and tho Kho'pk
Pua8i-8,
Snrai Pass can be turned a short distanco off by roads to north
and south of it, respectively via i>n,'(jhiu and Ln'r Anga'ng;, both
in the Dot' Valley, but it does not appear that eitlier ronte is
preferable to that of the Surai I'ass. And, lastly, there is a
short cut from Tiarshu'r tu Sharau Ka're'z over the mountains,
probably by a bad road.
Fishin to Ghazni and the To'ha Country. — There is a road from
A'li'zai over the To'ba country to Ghazni, but it was not describetl
as a good one ; and the To'ba country itself is probably to be
reached via Arambi River or tlu> Ma'chka Kiver, These points,
however were not clearly ascertained.
Qtu4ta via Giml Yalhtj to Zhdh Valley. — A good easy road runs
from Quetta via JiAu'shla'k by the Gwa'l Valley, and thence
through the Dof X'alley past Balozai Ka're'z and the coimtry
about Mt. Kaud into the Zlio'h Valley, described as giving trouble
nowhere ; it also appears to have been an old line of commu-
nicatiun. The Gwa'l Valley can also be readied by a doubtful
road running east uf Mt. Tjikatu thruiij:;h the Gur/,-/tai defile.
From this a road branches off from the iSaj^arband Pass, running
to the UA-Amuj7Mai Pass, and past A'madu'n to Psaf Kueh, there
joining the main line by the gorge of the Puver Ro'd to Tal
and Cho'tia'li. This road is joined near lio'dgui by a mountain-
path running over the Dargai Hills from Balozai Ka're'z, via
Shakar.
l'khj/mgh(^ai FaM into tht- Marri Countt'i/. — From XJkh-
mu_<7/idai Pass a road, the value of which wa.s niit clearly ascer-
tained, runs past the village of Brahiina'n and to the north of
Mt. Z&vfjhu'a into the Zhnwai Valley, which is described as
being a plain like the Pishin ; a description that must be taken
at a large discount. The road probably comes out in the neigh-
bourhood of 8i'bi, or at tlio Mazpi-a'ni (IJolo'ch) countiy to the
north of it. It is also probably joined by a roa<l which is pretty-
sure to run south from Ispira tta'c/Zm between Mts. ^l&'zhwd and
»SpiusA-Aar.
Isjnra liagha to A'madu'n. — When the writer was at Ispira
R&'ffhn a clearly defined track was seen to lead west from the
camping-ground ; but, as the neighbouring country is quite
uninhabited, no information could be obtained about it. From
the map, however, it would appear that such a trade must lead
towards A'nntdu'u.
Mehtarzai Route via Mt. Sarji;htcand. — An alternative route
to that taken by the nrniy lies from Mt. Kaud, through the
lilc/itarzai country to the north of the Ko'd Kiver. viu Mt. i^nvffh-
Wiuul and the fr/itibargai couutry, into the Sho'r Valley, coming
out at Ji'/nvara, The route is not described as bad, but it is not
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'U Field Force in 1879. 203
usually employed on account of the bad cliaracter of the people
about Mt. ISury/twand. It is joined by a level road leading to
the Pa'Ikai Pass,
SJio'r VoMetj to Zho'b Valhij. — From Chimja'n a road nins to
the ZJio'b Valley r/« the Zaf//ilu'n and Pa'lkai Passes, which has
been already described, and two roads run tliroui^h the Tarakai
Valley ; that vui Khwai and Gundamarai is said to be gocKi, and
was the one by which Sha/j Jt'ha'n of Khu^no'h {Zho'h VaJley)
came when be destroyed the food collected by Major Sandcman
at Chinija'n ; but that via the GAwand Peak is only a moun-
tain-path. The Tarakai Valley road is joined at Gundamarai
by one from China'li in the Sho'r Valley. A road is also said
to lead north-east directly up the Sungalu'n Valley to the ZJio'h,
Alternative Eoute vk't Kach and Sarlcai Zangah — iVn alter-
native route to that taken from Chimja'n runs past Dargai,
China'li, Kach, and Surkai Zangal to Baia'nai ,• this would seem
to bo the better of tbe two. It appears from Ijient. AYells'
reconnaissance that this was the route actually taken by a
portion at least of the firHt and third columns of the force.
Chimja'n to Shei-in. — With regard to minor roads a doubtful
one runs from Chimja'n to .She'ri'n, probably finding its way
eventually into the Marri countr)'.
Khwvi'ra to Gurm't'. — From KJiv/anx to Gurmi' there is a road,
which 18 most likely a local one, miming towards the Baia'nai
Pass.
Baia'nai Pass Roads. — There are two roads over the Baia'nai
Pass ; the one followed by the force, and another a little further
to the south, past some springs caUed the Uchsaha'n Springs.
There is little to choose between them ; that taken is the most
direct.
To Zliol Valley front the Ghaztjiai and Bo'rai Valleys. — From
Ninga'nd in the GAazgai Valley two roads run to (?/mrat in the
Zho'h Valley, one via. the Koha'r Pass, and one via the Bo'rai
Chap; but little is known of them. And from the Bo'rai
Valley, %ua the Tor Khulm Pass, a road also runs into the ^io'b,
but traverses an inhospitable country.
Cro.s-.s Roads connecting the Bo'rai Valley tcith the Tal and
Cho'tidU Routes. — Connecting the Bo'rai and Tal Valleys a road
from Ninga'nd runs past the Dargat Springs through the
(jr/iobargai Hills to Sinza'wai : but there is said to he a diffi-
culty about water along it. Also from Waria'gai there runs a
practicable road through the Sfio'r Pass to Bay/Ki'wa. It was
along these routes and through the Koha'r and Tor Kh&xze!
Passes that Sha7< .leha'n's men came from tlie ZJidh Valley,
when they attempted to arrest the progress of the first column
Temple's Account of the Country traversed by the
at Bajr/mwa. Lastly from the Bo'rai Valley a direct road
runs tlirough the Lu'ni country to Tal, via tlic Hatiuniba'r
Pass.
Jtoads to hid ia from the Bo'rai Vallt^y. — With regard to roads
to Iiulin, two madg load directly oiust nji the Bo'rai Valley to
the ]\Iu'sa /v7(e'l ROimfry, and thence eventually to De'ra GAa'zi
Khan and De'ra Isnia'il Kh'Aii, but are both said to be bad, and
the temper of the inhabitants is said to be more tlian doubtful.
A third road, also running directly east up the Bo'rai Valley,
joins the main caravan (Ka'iila) trade-roiite from De'ra Gfm'zi
Jihixu, towards the Zho'h Valley at Me'Witai',
Roads to the BuMui'o Vail f}j, and thence to India via Viho'va, —
After the lio'rai Valley and the Hatiumba'r Pass are crossed,
all the roads running eastward tend towards the Ea^/Aao Valley
(Independent Belo'ch tribes), whence they eventually find their
way to India via Viho'va, but none of them seem to be desirable
routes.
Road3 towards Tal and Clio'tia'U. — But all roads leading west-
wards go to Tal and Cho'tia'li. A rough uudesirablG mountain-
road connects the Tsamaulang Valley with Cho'tiali, while the
main route to Cho'ttu'li from the Han Pass runs along the Ba'la
Dhaka Valley, joining the route taken by the writer at the
Ku'han Peak. Also a road, said to be impracticable for a
force, joins Liigaii ISa'rkha'n with Cho'tiii'li via the Mar Pass,
but it shuuld be remembered that Major Sandeman antl his
pei-soual escort, inchuling cavalry, traversed it without mishap.
IV. Water-Sofply and BivEns.
Waiei'-Siippljf and Rivers. — After the roads themselves, the
water-supply and rivers along a route are the most important
consideration. As might be expected in a mountainous coun-
try like Afghanistan, torrents, streams, and rivers are very
numerous, but not large, and oidy the more important ones, of
which the author iiscerfained the names, are shown on the map.
None of those that are excluded have any water in them,
except in wet weather, or after rain, and probably then only
for a very short time. As a large portion of the route lies near
the summit of the watersheds or catchment basins, much water
is not to be expneted in any of the streams, nor are many
springs to be looked for.
Fermaneni Streams. — The only streams that were found to
have a permanent supply of water were the Kho'Jak, the
Arambi, the Tuijha.], the Muzarai, the Pishin Lo'ra, the Barso',
the Sur/Jta'b, and the Lo'ra, in the Pishin Valley ; the Soi-
Second Column of the Tal — Clidtia'li Field Force in 1879. 205
hlidlh, the Eo'd, and tlie Gnr7k7(ai. between the Pishin and tbo
Sho'r Valleys, and in tbo Sho'r Valley only the Kach ; in the
Bo'rai Valley, towards the Hanumba'r Puss, the Kach, the
Hunumba'r, the Sia'b, the Marai, the Siha'», and the LoValai.
After leaviiif.' the LoValai, the Kutsa, the Tsamaulanpj, and the
Ka' han bad water pennaneutly only in deep pools, and no more
permanently runniuf? water is seen till the Mitt/ti' KIiuTh and
tlic Han are met with to the south of the Han Pass. In none
of the above streams is there any body of water, and only in
the Lo'ra, the LoValai, and the Siha'n is it more tiian ankle-
deep, the rivers generally runniuj^ about their beda in half-a-
dozen dribbling streams. The river-beds are, however, extra-
ordinarily large, even near the tops of tbo bills, and consist
usually of water-worn pebbles ancl stones of even large size,
showing that the streams are powerful torrents at times.
Kuh, ot Artificial Watercourses. — There ia a practice, espe-
cially in the more thickly-populated portions, of divertuig
streams along ku'ls,* or artificial watercourses, for irrigation,
which probably deprives the rivers of a good deal of their
natural supply of water.
Sjjrinqs. — There are not many natural springs outside the
rivcr-becis, nor is awanipy laud often seen in the valleys. The
only springs passed en route were the Mzarai, near Baia'nai,
and those near the camping-ground in the Tnlch Kuram Pass.
Others heard of were the Pla'n and the Uchsaha'n, near
Baia'nai ; the Dargat, between the Bo'rai and Lwa'ra Valleys,
near Sinza'wai ; the Cliurma, eit route to GAnrat, from the
Bo'rai Valley, and the Ma/imu'd Wa'Ii, in the .la'ndhra'n liange.
These last are said to supply a quantity of good water.
Wdh and Ka're'zes. — Wells and open reservoirs or tanks do
not seem to be resorted to by the people in this part of the
country as a means of procuring water. The only wells the
writer could hear of were at a place called Tsa'hun, in the
De'rama Hills, some eight or ten miles east of the TriA/* Kuram
Pass. And the only tanks that came under his observation in
Southern Afghanistan were in the Kadanei Valley, immediately
west of the Kbo'jak Pass, and one in the Pishin Valley, near
* A knl is an open oxtificiAl waterconrae following tliQ contonr of the bills. It
generally taps a mountain-stroam at ila herul, but frequently also a river in some
pert of iti conrtie, and Ihenno takfH tliu water to any point where it i« rcMinirai.
These ku'ls branch all over tlio vadieya iii tbo nioro civilised [jiirts, nnd tho etrcfiin
<ir river-water is turned on from time to time to thnt [wrlion of the land requiring
irrigation. Some rivers, like tbo Tamak ninr Gandnhn'r, nru almost >nado to di»-
app«3ar in this way. Ku'ls ore common all over tho Uimulayuu districts in India,
aa n'l'll aa in Afghanistan, and are uouictinies carried for many miled. Thoy aro
much Tolucd, and tiave long aiuco become n proliBe source of litigation.
Temple'* Account of the Country traversed hy the
Samalzai, on the road to iOm'shtlil KJm'n. Ka're'zes,* how-
ever, are largely used in the Pisbin Valley and the country
round, and tneiice westwards all over Southern Afghanistan.
A few are also to be seen in the Ka'kar country about the Sho'r
and Bo'rai Valleys.
Waterless Tracts. — Of course about the summits of the water-
sheds waterless tracts are met with, extending over some
distance ; and here, as elsewhere in thin portion of the Asian
continent, the distances from water to water are often serious.
These are naturally greatest in the mountainous parts of the
route. From Shudaod, in the upper Ro'd Gorge, there is no
water till Ispira EaV/Aa is reached, seven miles off, and even
then the watvr-supply is precarious, so that one would have to
be prepared to bo without water as far as O'bushtkai, in
the feho'r Valley, distant from Shudand 16 miles. The 8ho'r
Valley itself is much more destitute of water than the valleys
are usually found to bo, none being met with between Chimja'n
and the Mzanii Springs, 18 miles apart. But the main
difficulty about water is encountered south of the Hanumba'r
Pass, where there is no water after the River LoValai is left till
the TriA7i Kuram Springs are reached, i.e. for 18 miles,
and then no more till the River Kutsii, 11 miles, and not enongh
for a camp till the Tsaraaulang campLn«r-ground, 16 miles.
From this to the Enla Dhaka ground there is none for 10
miles, ami after that none, except only a precarious supply
half-way, till the Han Pass is crossed at MittJii Khu'i'n, 16
miles distant. Off the route the same thing is to be observed.
There is practically no water between tbo Sho'r and Zhol)
Valleys, via the Pa'lkai Pass, for 20 miles or so, and alon^
the A'madu'n route no water was found at one point for 10
miles.
Ariijicial Means of procurituj Water. — The above remarks
apply only to natural sources of water-supply, for there are
inuications, such as damp soil, green and iresh overgrowth,
&c.» in many parts, of the near presence of water underneath.
* A ka're'z may be tenned an underjfround ku'l, ox artiiJcial watercouree. Tbc
procfs* of constracting one ia apparently this : the course of tlia undfr^^round
water-supply liaviiig l.)cen aacertainfd, a work requiriug considtralile akill and
experienfc, wells are miak along it at a eJiort distance apart, and often to a great
depth, and tlieu connected below walcr-ltvel by tunntjLt. The whole fornoB oa
underground artificial stream or kii'l, and u c&llrd a ka'n-'z. ltd advantages ore
tUat tho watcr-Bupply la tapped at ita natural Icvol, and a great underground
cistern formtd, not subject to the rapid uvaporntion it wonld undergo at the Burface
of the aoil. Ka're'z digging appears to be an art («n6n«d to <Mirtain Tillages or
(liunliiea, and some sub-diviiiioiiij of the (r/iilzais are especially renowned as ka're'a
diggers.
Second Column of the Tal^Clio'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 207
especially abotit tbc TriA7i Kuram and Han Passes, and in
several places now described as waterless. And it is probable
that by judicious well-digging tlio country would be made to
yield water at reasonable distances all along tbe route.
Bain/ull and Wtt Seasons. — TLere is a good deal of rain,
aleet, and suow iu tlte winter niontbs, and some in tbe spring ;
but the regular rains appear tu be about July and August, as
is usual in this region. Very little rain, however, seems to fall
south of tbe Han l*asa, and what does fall comes about spring,
and then only iu showers. It is remarkable that not a drop
of tbe water falling hero and passing away in the numerous
streams ever reaches tlie sea ; that running away U) the west
is sucked up by the Belo'ch Desert to the south of Afgban-
istan, and that to the east by tiie Kaehi I^esert, or by the
san'ly wastes between the Suiima'n Range and tiie Indus.
Qiuility of the Water-mmly, — As far as the palate can test,
the water-supply is on the whole good and pleasant, but is
said generally to contain salts in soluticju, and a considerable
percentage of solid matter. In places it is brackish to the
taste, as in the GurA:/(rti River ; and in all the country between
the Tvihh Kuram and Plan Passes, and some of the rivei-s, as the
Siha'ft, the Lo'ralai and the Han, have that peculiar pale green
tinge betokening the presence of salts. In a few places, as
along the Sagar River, and about the Tri7i/i Kuram and
Hanokai Passes, much of the water is sidt and unwholesome.
V. SorPLiES.
Nature of the Supplies. — There is little to be got in the
country beyond its natural protlucts, food-grains, fruit and
live-stock ; and the only manufactured articles oftered for sale
were some rough woollen cloths here and there.* The
supplies may therefore be classed under the ftillowing beads :
(1) food-grains and farinaceous food, (2) live-stock and animal
food, (3) fruits, fresh or dried according to season.
Orops aiid Food-Grains. — First, then, as regards grains. The
cultivation of these naturally depends un the water-supply,
and, as a rule, where that is found to run short, food-supplies
(and population) are also found to fail. [Supplies are plentiful
in the Pishtn and up the Ro'd River Gorge as far as I'siif Kach,
and again in tho Bo'rai Valley and in lia'rkha'n {IJurkhijm),
but in the long mountainous belt between the Bo'rai VaUey and
* Bread, however, wu made ftt Kala AUlulloli K/uin, in Ihe Fibliin, and sugar
and molatises were procured at Bbarari, in the Uo'rai YuUey,
208 Temple'* Account of the Country traversed by the
Da'rkha'n there are no supplies at all, nnd from tlie Uof Valley
t(t the Bo'rai, all along tlie lio'd ilivor Gorge nnd tho Shor
ViiUoy, they may be said to be scarce, 80 tliat a difficult road
and ft failJn;:^ water-supply indicate a scarcity ol" food-supplies
in thia country. The crops grown are found to be much the
same throughout, viz., wheat, barley, millet, and Indian com
(maize) ; to which may be added lucerne about the Pishin and as
far as the Ko'd Gtirge, and perhaps oats. In the t5ho'r Valley
such scanty eroris as are raised appear to ho barley niid Indian
corn. About Dalozai Ka're'z and tliroiighout the 1 )of Valley there
IS a noticeable cultivation of Slauji't (madder), a plant pro-
ducing a red dye. Locally it is said not to grow elsewhere, but
it is to be seen about Candaha'r. It is grown in deejjly fun-owed
land, at a cousiderable expense of" time and trouble. Grass for
horses, mules, and cattle was generally procurable without much
trouble everywhere ; and as grass, camelthoru, and southern-
wood were abundant in most place;*, the bill or Afghan camels
had plenty to eat, but there was constant difficulty experienced
in feeding the tamarisk-eating camel of the Indian plains. Of
imported products tobacco, Indian and Kandalm'ri, wtis procur-
able everywhere, and also rice in a few places. Of grain, there-
fore, wheat, millet, Indian corn and barley, were generally
obtainable, as also were Hour, both iVoiu wheat and Indian corn,
and Bhoosa,* or chopped straw.t while rice wjis procurable in a
few places only.
Live-Stoch and Animal Products. — Of live-stock the chief are
sheep, goats, and cattle, wJiich are to be found everywhere, the
bullocks being used chielly lor carrying purposes. Donkeys
and horses t are procurable in the m/ne populous parts, and
camels iu the Pi^ihin and JJa'rkho'm. Fowls are to he bought
everywhere, uud in the Piahin the long-baired variety of tho
greyhound — known as tho Pei-sian greyhound — a very hand-
some, but somewhat treacherous and dangerous species. As
commoji animal products may be mentioned milk, ghee
(clarided butter), and eggs. Butter was procurable iu the more
civilized parts, but not easily ; and butter-milk was only sold
as such ill one place, Sharan in the Bo'rai Valley. Meat
I
• Bhoosa, or chopped atraw, is a common staple for cattlo-food througbont
Northern Iwlifi jintl Afghnnietan. Duringr tho late war the writer bought a
bullock in llio Arr|Ai^'n Volk-y that Ook kindly to no other kind of food, ohowing
that it was acmaloTncd t>i subbitt putirtly on bfiorisa.
t TLt; 8o-ealk'<I Ka'buli^, who acl! honicg all uvcr ludia, art- the Bayads of tho
Piahin, and con8e<n]eiitIy iu tlioir villii;?ea niiMi arc to be found in jdenty who have
travelled ti> all porta of tiio liritL-ih Empire in Llio Kaat, speak Uindostani liuoatly,
and ore tboruughly acquainted witk Kngliah ways,
Second Column of the Tal — Chdtia'li Field Force in 1879.
(killed) was not to be procured anywhere, and, in order to get
meat, sheep and oattlo bad to be bought and then slaughtered.
This, however, proved no drawback in a winter campaign, as
the meat was all the better for being kept for a week or bo.
Tlie only sort of meat that the writer saw offered for sale was
some dried mutton in strips at Sharan, in the Bo'rai Valley.
As animal products may be added eow-dung (go'bar), so uni-
versally used in India, but here, however, only on sale at
8hnran ; and dried curds (kurt), sold everywhere as a sweet-
meat.
Game and Wild Animah. — As regards game and wild ani-
mals, but few opportunities presented themselves of ascertaining
much. Partriuges, hares, ravine deer," and pig were fomia
en roxde at several points, while some snow-ieopaurds were seen
in the highlands about Ispira Ka'^/ja, in the neighbourhood of i
i^foimt Ma'^/nvij, and porcupines' quills were found about the ^|
TriWt Kiiram and Han Passes. ^^
Fruit, — Round every village and hamlet, even in the wildest
pai'ts, are fruit-trees to be eeen ; in places, indeed, they are
very numerous, and the main luxury of these mountaineers
seems to lie in their fruits. In the winter they are sold
in a dried state, and, with stewing, make excellent puddings
and tarts. The chief are iigs, plums, peaches, apricots,
grapes (raisins), cherries, and olives. Pomegranates also
are to be bought in the Bo'rai and Pishin Valleys'. In Ba'rk-
ho'm and the Belo'ch country the absence of the fruit-trees, to
be remarked round every Pathau village, is immediately
observable.
Fuel, — It Las been remarked ahove, that wherever the road
was difficult, and the water-supply failing, the population and
food-supplies wore also found to be scarce, but the converse
holds good as regards fuel.f Wherever the population is
scanty there the supply of fuel is moat abundant, and the reason
is not far io seek. The people hereabouts never seem to plant,
or to care to preserve, any trees, except those that bear fruit,
* A very pretty baby specimen of what waa inippoaeJ to be a ravine deer,
«aught In the Hanuinba'r Pusa, waa handut] over to the niitbor to bo taken care of.
It was aueoesBfuUy brought tu ludiu aa Tar as DJiariuHala, when it suddenly died,
seemingly of fever. It waa unfortiitiatdy too young \a be of much value ad a
zoolcigical gpecitnen, but froni its skin it was snppoiod by Dr. Anderson, 8uper-
inteDilent of the Indian bluseuni, Calcutta, to be a variety of sheep, the OvU
eijdocero*. whiob oooora in the Salt Bango of the Punjab, Afghantstan, Beluchi-
stan, and in Siad.
t Camel-dnng is a common and nfFectivo aubstitnte for wood as fuel. The dung
of other auimaU may alao be aetu preserved in the villages for the same purpose*
VOL. XLIX. P
210 Temple'* Account of the Country traversed hy the
anil the process of prociirin^ fuel and wood for buildinn; and
similar purposes is simple. They cut dowu the nearest supply
as required, and then proceed to the nest. By this means tlio
country has beconics gradually denuded of forest and wood — a
Erocess also observed in the Punjab, Mysore, and other parts of
ndia — and hence that hare appearance noticed in such places
hy all travellers.
Trees and Overgrowths, — That the country is not uatui-ally
tare of forest and wood may be deduced from the fact that in
places more difticult of approaf-li tbnn usual, as the highlands
about Jloiint Ma'^Awo, and in the portions uninluibited for any
reason, as tho debatable lands about the lianiiniba'r, Trii/*
Kuram, Hanokai and Han Passes, and iu the Tsamaiilong
Valley, wood is by no means scarce ; indeed, near the Hanum-
ba'r Pass there is a small forest. It \vas to be obserTed, too,
that uhercver the land was hilly and difHcult of access, tliough
not very far from inhabited spots, such an tho Jv/iojak, Sunii,
and Baia'nai Passes, wood was to be obtained and trees to be
seen fj;ro\ving, though not in any qnantity. As might be ex-
pected, the vegetation and natural growths were found to be
affected by locality and the very varying levels of the country.
The most persistent overgrowths observed were southernwood
and cameltliorn, which are to be found a]iparently everywhere
all through Central Asia, from the Siilinm'n Kange to the
Caspian. The fc>l lowing were the trees and overgrowths seen in
tho various localities. In tho Pishin Valley, as far as the upper
gorge of the Kiver Ku'd— altitude {iOOU feet to 700O feet —
the trees were pistachio, dwarf tamarisk, berljery, cherry and
olive ; the overgrowths were southernwood, canielthorn, gentian,
moases of sorts, gra^s, both fine and coarse, reeds, dwarf holly,
find a fragrant plant like broom, used by the natives as a
medicine, and sTuoked like tohaero. In the higher lands at the
Ush Pass, and about JMount Ma'^/iwu — altitude. 7000 feet to OOUO
feet — the trees wore wild plum (ber), juniper, conifers of sorts,
probably cedars and cypresses, and a hush like a rose ; the
overgrowths were camelthorn, sonthernwoo<l, grass, fine and
coarse, reeds, and the broom-like plant above mentioned. In
the Sho'r and Bo'rai Valleys— altitude, 7U0O feet to 4000 feet —
the trees were berbery, olive, dwtirf tamarisk, and in the lower
lands tamarisk nnd willuw ; the overgrowths were southern-
wood, cameUhoni, grass, fine, coarse, and tnfty, du'b grass
(Cyiiitdor dadtjlon), dandelions, and reeds. In the country
lying between the Ilanumba'r and the llan Passes — altitude,
4000 foet to 5000 feet — the trees were tamarisk, dwarf tama-
Second Column of the Tal—Cko'tidli Field Force in 1879- 211
risk, berbery, ber (wild plura, Zizyphu^ jujvha), babu'l {Acacia
arahim), and dwarf palms; tlie overgrowths wore grass, tliick
and fine, aud nlso rank, reedy, and coar.^o, reeds, caraelthorn, and
smithemwoofl. But in Ba'rkbo'ni, whore the general altitude
is about 3500 feet, there was seen to be a great change in the
overgrowths, whii^h now became similar to those observahle
anywhere in Beluehistun and the Indian plains about the Indus
Valley. Grass and tamarislis were very abundant in the lower
and daniper lands.
Distnnces withotit Sitjiplies. — As the distances between places,
where supplies can be procured, are a serious consideration in
snch a country as this, a statement of them will be here given.
There is no difficulty about supplies till I'saf Kach is reachevl
on the lliver Ko'd, but there are none whatever from this to
Chimja'n, a distance of 35 miles, or three days' march. And
again there are none between Chimja'n and Ninga'nd, a distance
of 30 miles, or two days' march. Such, too, as are procurable
at Chimja'n are doulitful, so that one should be prepared to
meet with scanty supplies from I'saf Kach to Ninga'nu, i. e. for
G5 miles, or five days' march. Again, from tlip. Lu'ni Valley to
Ba'rkho'm, 60 miles, or five days' march, there are no supplies
to be got of any sort. Troops and travellers, therefore, accord-
ing to the direction of their march, should lay in a stock of
provisions for five days at I'saf Kach and in the Bo'rai Valley,
or in Ba'rkho'm and the Bo'rui Valley.
Table shomtiif SiqipJies procurnhle ai Eiicampiiifj Groumh. —
The following table will show in detail the supplies procured
at the various encampments en route. It was, of course, im-
possible to ascertain the rates current in or<linary years, and
the exorbitant prices demanded from the army were paid
probably with a view to conciliating the inhabitants and
keeping them quiet, they being encouraged in their demands
by the political authoritie.^, wltose rates, according to which
the Commissariat Department and all officers were requested
to purchase, were higher than the prices that the people them-
selves ever thought of asking: —
VI- Inuabitants,
Afglmn and Belo'ch Tribes mei tnth en route. — It is not
intended here to go df-eply into the subject of AFghiin and
Belto'ch tribes and their infinite Bubdivisions;* a short descrip-
tion only of those whose territoriea w^re passed en route will
be given. The Afghan tribes met with along the line of march
were the Dura'nis or Abda'Iis.f the Tari'ns, the Ka'kars, the
Ln'nis, and the Zarkba'ns.
TJte Bura'nis or Abdalis. — The Dura'nis are represented by
the Achakznis, inhabiting the Kho'jak Pjiss and the hills nortb-
uest of the Pishin, and by a village here and there in the
Pishin, the inhabitants of which belong to the Po'palzais,
lately the ruling chm in Afghanistan through its sub-section
the Sadozais (better known by the spelling 8udosye.s), and to
the Bn'rakzais, the present ruling clan. The late ruler of the
Pishin, A7iu'shdil Khan, a near relative of the late and present
Ameers, was a Ba'rakzai of the Mohammadzai (the present
royal) sub-section. The sub-seetions of the Achakzais in the
Pishin are the Abdal?^ Ilabi'bzais, and Ka'kozais,
The Tari'ns, — The chief inhabitants of the Piehin are the Tor
* A Paper, by the author, on the inhabitants of the nnuntry paesod llirongh by
the second colnmn Tal— C'U'otia'U Field Force, ia published in the ' Jomnal of
the Aaiatic Rocioty of Bengal ' fnr 1880.
t Tli(j oii;<trml tiauie of tlio tribe wiis A1i<la'Ii ; tlic name of Dura'ni dates from
the time of Alimod KJib'h Baduzai, the hero of Pu'ninat and conqueror of {.Ahoro
and Mtilta'u, who toutk the title of Darr-i-Duna'n, tho Pearl of Pearl«, on ascead-
ing the Afghan tbrono. .
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tiaHi Field Force in 1879. 213
J'ari'ns, one of the two great divisions of the Tari'n tribe, which
is (livitled into the Spin (or white) Tari'ns antl the Tor (or
black) Taring. The former iuhubit all the country about Tal
and Chu'iia'ii, and the latter the Pishin Viillej'. The following
sections of the Tor Tari'ns were found in the I'ishin Valley,
— Batazais or Badozaie, AVm'nizais, A'li'zaia, Nu'rzais, Kula'zais,
^^lu'flizais, Haikalzaiti, Manatkais, Ma'likais, Ha'ru'ns, and
Kama'lzais. The known sub-divisions of the Spin Tari'ns are
the Sha'di'zais, llarpa'nis, Lasra'nis, and Adwa'nis.
Tlte Sai/ads of th-e Fishiv. — Occupying several villages in the
Pishin, holding a high and influential position as a sacred
class, and commanding respect from their wealth and superior
commercial qualifications, are the Sayads. They are not
Patlians, hut tire supjiosed to be of Arab descent; at any rate
they claim to be of such. However, to all intents and
purposes, they are Pathans, and have a strong national feeling
with that race. They deal chiefly in horses, and as horse-
dealers travel to all parts of India, understand Hindostani well
as a rule, and are acquainted with the ways of more civilized
lands. Isolated 8ayad villages are found throughout the
Pathan country, and even in Ba'rkho'm iind among the Belo'ch
tribes. They always, wherever they may happen to be, com-
mand the fame respect^ and are looked up to as a superior
race. They are sub-divided in the Pishin in a v?ay which
shows their adoption of Pathnu customs. Thus, into Gan-
galzais, Bagarzais, Ajabzaia, iSha'di'zais, Brahamzais, Haidar-
zais, and Ya'singzai:?.
The Kakars. — The whole of tlio country lying between the
Pisljin Valley and tlie Bo'rai Valley, including the latter, is
inhabited by the Kakai-s. They are divided into the Lo'we' (or
Great) Ka'kars, and the Kuchnai (or Lesser) Ka'kars ; the latter
in a great measure recognizing the supremacy of the former.
The country occupied by the Great Ka'kars, whose chief appears
to be Sha'/j; Jeha'n of Khf^no'h, is about the ZJio'h Valley,
and that passed by the army belongs to the Lesser Ka'kars.
The Lesser Ka'kars are divided into Sulima'n AVie'ls and
Amand JvAe'ls, oocupymg the land between the i)oi and Pishin
Valleys; Me/ttarzais, found between the Zko'h Valley and the
Ro'd River Gorge, and the Pa'nizais to the sonthwarJ between
the River Ro'd and Quetta, both these sections ranging as
lai' as Mts. M&'zh\\6 and Surf/Ziwaud ; I'sa' Khe'h in the Gwa'l
md
the
jrge; Zja/i7<pcis m tne onor vaiiey; iJuraars
about Smalan and Buffho. wa ; Utma'n A'/te'ls in the 6r/mzgai
Valley and in the west end of the Bo'rai ; and Sundar A/ie'ls in
214 Temple'* Accovmt of the Country iraversec
i\\ii Bo'rui Valley. Among the sections of the Great Ka'kars are
probably the/tA waida'ili!ftis,Mur3ia'iifi;zai8, Aktarzais and Awazais,
to whicli should be adde<l perhaps the Me/ttarzais and Siirgarais
above stated to bo of tho Lesser Ka'kars. With regard to the
sub-sections of the above, the uutlna' hud not much opportunity
of making extended enquiries ; but it would appear that the
Tra^ai-ais may be referred to the Sulima'n /t/ie'ls ; the A'di'/ais
to the Pa'ni'zais ; the Mula'zais aud Ta'ra'us to the Sara'ngzais ;
Amazais, Kauozais and Na'ozais to the Za/.7/pe'ls; tho A'ii'zais,
Shabozais, Mu'ys, Dargais and Waha'rs to the .Sandar A7ie'l6.
TJiC Lu'ni IvheZf, — To the south of the Ilanumba'r J'as.s, and
occupying all the country between that and the lielo'eh border,
are the Lu'ni Kho'h, called also commonly the Lu'ni Pathans.
They are not lui'knr.s, and claim to be of Ahda'li descent, and
call themselves Dura'ais, but are not included in any of the
lists of the Dura'ui sections. It was not ascertained tliat tbey
are sub-divided in any way.
TJie Zarkha'its. — Tho Zar7;/ia'ns occupy the liills to the west
of the Spin Tari'ns about the lluuokai I'ass aud Bala Uha'ka.
Little is knuwn of them except that they are Pathans, and
imfortuuately for themselves they are next door neighbours to
the Blarris, who have nearly wiped them out as a separate clan
by constant harrying,
Tfte Belo'ch Trihtn. — The subject of the Be'loch tribes and
their sub-divisions is almost as complicated as that of the
Afghans, aud it will be here .suflicient merely to mention
those that came under observation, lioughly speaking, the
border (to the ea-st of wliit^h lies the Belo'ch district of Ba'rkho'm,
eummonly calh d lla'rkha'u) runs along the hdk of the Ma'r
Pass, thence to the liarbu'z liills, and then ptist the Tor
Ts^ipar Peak (or Kali' Cliuppri', Belo'cli name) in the Han
Pass to the Bay/'ao Valley. Ba'rkho'm is the first inhabitf^d
district, and appears to belong to the Khe'tra'ns, sub-divided
into Khidra'ni's, Da'ma'ui's, ^Ja'iiars and Su'mi's. Several, how-
everj of the other tribes have property here, apjiurL-ntly using
it as a summer residence on account of Ihe boat expuiieucod in
their main property, whieh lies in the plain between the Suli-
ma'n range ana the Indus. These are the Luga'ri's, I'slui'ni's,
Muza'ri's, Gui-chani's, and the Lu'nds, All the lull country
from Ba'rkho'm and south of the l^athiin border as far as the
Kachi' Desert aud the P>ugti' territory, is occupied by the
Jlarris, a tribe of robbers, who are a curse unti u teiror to all
around them, Belo'chis and Puthaus,
Table of Aftjhan and Beldch Tn'bts fouiul en route. — A table
of the Ai'ghan and Belo'ch tribes above mentioned is here
given, to bring their numerous sub-divisions into one view.
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'K Field force in 1879* 215
Past I.— AraHAir Tubes.
No.
Tribe.
No.
Diviiion.
No.
Section.
No.
SniMwctlon.
I.
/Dnia'ni or
\ Abdali.
1
Zi'rak.
1
Po'palzai.
1
SadozaL
2
Ba'rakzu.
1
MohammadzaL
3
Achakzai.
1
2
3
Abdnl.
Habi'bzai.
Ka'kozai.
II.
Tari'n.
1
Tor Tari'n.
1
^Batazai or Ba-
\ dozai.
£Aa'nizaL
2
1
Lu'r Kh&'mM.
2
Dab ITAa'ntzaL
3
A'li'zai.
4
Nu'rzad.
5
Kula'zai.
6
Mu'eizai.
7
Se'gai.
Malikya'r.
8
9
Ma'ezai.
10
Haikalzai.
11
ManzakaL
12
Ma'likai.
13
Ha'ru'n.
14
Kama'lzai.
2
Spin Tari'n.
1
2
3
4
Slia'di'zai.
Marpa'ni.
Lasra'ni.
Adwa'ni.
m.
Ka'kar.
1
Lo'w'e Ka'kar.
1
2
3
4
5
6
ITAwaida'dzai.
Mu'reia'ngzai.
Aktarzai.
Awazai.
MeAtarzai.
Satgarai.
2
Euchnai Ka'kar.
1
2
8
Siilima'n Khel.
Ahmand Khe'l.
MeAtarzai.
1
Tragarai.
4
Pa'ni'zaL
1
A'di'zal
5
Ba'zai.
6
Shamozai.
7
SorgaraL
8
Mulafjai.
9
I'sa' Ehol
10
Sara'ngzai.
1
2
Mula'zaL
Ta'ra'n.
i
11
Zakhpe'h
1
2
3
Amazai.
Kanozai.
Na'ozai.
!
1
12
Diimar.
1
13
Utma'n Khel
t
14
Sandar Khe'l.
1
A'U'zai.
2 , Shabnzai
3 MuV.
4
Dargai.
IV.
Lu'ni Khdl
5
Waha'r.
V.
Zar7;Aa'n.
216 Temple'* Account of the Country traversed hy the
Part II.— Satads,
Tfil*.
Sayad.
No.
Siib-dirlfliou.
GatigalzaL
Bagarzai.
Ajabzai.
BhaMi'zai.
Braliamzai.
Haidarzai.
yn.'<!ingzai.
Ummzai.
l-AnT III.-
BEI-O'cH TBIIiti?.
Ko.
Trlbe.
No.
Snb-divliiuu.
I.
Khe'tra'n.
1
2
3
4
Kliidrn'ui'.
Dft'ma'ni'.
Na'har.
Su'mi'.
IF.
Luga'ri'.
III.
I'aha'ni'.
IV.
Gnniha'ni',
V.
Lu'nd.
VI.
Mnrri.
VII.
Muxa'ri'.
Sysiem of Government in the Pishin and Dof VaUeys.—The
Ameer's power used to extend as far as the Pisliin and Dof
Valleys, where A'/ni'shclil Khan of the royjil house was gOTernor^
having under him Nu'r Jlohamniad Khtx'it, a (Mohammadzai)
Ba'rakzai, as Naib or lieuteuant.. It does not appear tliat
JOiu'shdil Kha'yt or liis family ever resided in the I'ishin, so
that the Naib was probably supreme. The seat of government
was the fort known as A7tu'slidil Kh&'n, which is now turned
into a pommissariat warehouse (or godown) iu charge of another
Nu'r Hlohamniad Khan, a Belo'ch (Luga'ri'), who is also Na'zim
or ruler of the Pisbin under our Government.
Governmeni in Yaghiatan. — From the Dof Yalley eastward*
to the Belo'ch frontier the Ameer never seems to have had
any control, and this part of the country is locally known as
Ya'^/iista'n, or the Independent Land.* This Ya'j/Aista'n includes
• Ta'jrAi' is nsuBlly taken to mean an outlaw nr tnrbulent fellow lirjond
ordinary control, and la u«ed in a bad st^nse. In the above term Yn'^Uibta'u. ita
aigniflciitioii, Iiowpvor, .■<«■ erns to bo coiifiucd 1o mere indepcnilonci?, Imt it must I<o
remembered tliat the PathauB of this diiitiict bcnr a very bad unmo among their
felluw countrymen.
Second Column of the Tai — Chdtia'li Field Force m 1879. 217
all the Ka'kar country, as well as that of the Lu'nis, the Zar-
klm'ns and the Spin Turi'iis. The torm Ka'kurista'u is, of
course, applied properly to the Ka'kar country, but it is also
loosely used in much the same sense as Ya'j/Ziista'n. Hero the
government seems to be on the patriarchal system. Every
villaf^e has its chief or Malik, and every tribal sub-section its
Malik also, but such men as appear to be chiefs of a tril>e or
section, such as Sha7( Jeha'n oi the Zho'h Ka'kars, Gwurrat
Klitk'n of the JSaudar A7ie'l Ka'kars, Samaudar Kha'n oi" the
Lu'nis, seem to owe their position as much to the force of
personal character as to descent. There is appnrently no
Sirda'r, or head, of the Ka'kars, Lu'nis and so on, recopinised as
such, as among the other Afghan tribes. All the Malika are
styled Khan.
Internal Fiffhta and Sqiiohbles. — Every Malik seems to rule
supreme in his own sub-section or village, and fights Iiis
neighbours, on occasion, without reference to tlie rest of his
tribe, while the tribes and sections agam unite under their
chief for the time being to harry one another. Strangely
enough, this system seems to work well enough in places, as in
the Bo'rai Valley, as far as a certain rough kind of prosperity
goes, but there are many indicutions of a constant state of
petty war. And this not only in Ya'ghista'n, but also in the
Pishin, where a more settled government existed. Recent
instances are the harrying, and linal driving into British pro-
tection at Quetta, of the Malik i^ayad Sa'lo (Urumzai), with all
his villagers, by the Malik of Sayad Paind, his near neighbour
in the Pishiu; and the destruction of old Waria'gai in the
Bo'rai Valley, resulting in the removal of the village to its
present site, on account of some local squabble. And many
more could be found all over the country*.
Hatred of tavh othtr ahown h^ the Tribes. — The utter hatred
and distrust of each other exhibited by these tribes is a source
of wonder to a foreigner : even sections of the same tribe are
afraid of each other, and often there is a fear of a certain
village shown by its neighbours. Kach, in the Sho'r Valley, i-*
a village apparently much dreaded in the neighbourhood, while
Ka'kars murder Tari'ns, and vice versa. As far as one could
gather, no Tari'n will willingly visit the Ka'kar country, and
no Ka'kar the Lu'ni territory. I'sa' Khe'i Ka'kars were met with
who dreaded their brethren the I'a'ni'zais, and i^a/rApe'Is who
feared the Dumars and Utma'n Khe'ls, though they were
neighbours and fellow-tribesmen. The only persons who have
a safe-conduct everywhere are the Sayads, and even with
them there ia a danger of being mistaken for a Pathan, In
218 Temple'* Account of Ike Country traversed by the
the eyes of a Tarin, au Acliakzai or a Pisliin Sayftd, every
Ka'lvar is a cut-throat, a scoundrel and a thief, fit only for
extermination. This character of the Ka'kars also naturally
obtuius auKuig tliL' Boloeliis about Quetta: and, as we have
never previously seen anything of the Kakars and Lu'uis iii
their own territories, it would a]>pear that the bad character
they have borue with us is attributable to tliis. As fur as the
present writer could see, in their own country and away from
the border, where every man's hand is against theru, the
Ka'kai-s are no worse than any other Patiiaus ; iu fact, i«i some
lihires they are better off.
holatioii from ihc Out&r World. — As a consequence of their
independent attitude towards the government of the Ameer,
the inhabitants of Ya'y/iista'u have beeji coufiaed to their own
territories on the western frontier, while the presence of their
natural enemies the Belochis along the cast and south btirder
hjis prevented them liom penetrating beyond it, and eonse-
([uently they have become quite isolated and sliut uut from
eommuuication with the outer world, and live entirely among
themselves.
The Luleixunhnt Beldch Tribes. — The Belo'ch teiTitoiy passed
through belongs to the independent Belo'ch tribes, each under
its own Tumanda'r or chief, none of whom recognise the
authority of the Kha'n of Khela't. Their method of govern-
ment need not be here dilated on, as it is well known and
understood from their proximity to ourselves. SuflSce it to
say that up in the highlands of Ba'rkho'm they seem to live
much like their Pathun neighlniurs, idways either fighting them
or each other. Their internal cjuarrels arc not necessarily
tribal, but often extend no further than the villages imme-
diately concerned ; and the frequent occurrence of deserted
villages or of those whose sites have been recently changed,
points to a constant habit of petty war. But the pests of the
country are the Marris. 1'his tribe, which oceupie.«i perhaps a
larger territory than any other, lives professedly by depreda-
tion. They Imve only one town or village, Ka'han, and, like
tlie Zakka Khe'ie of the Xhyber, they dwell iu caves, whence
they sally fi>rth to plunder and murtier. They are a curse to
all around them, Pathaaa aud Belochis alike, and the sooner
thi?v are crushed and brouglit to reason the better for the
country.
Language. — The laoguuge spoken among the Pathaus met
with r-/i route is Pushto, the language of Aj'ghauihtaii, in several
dialects. These differ, as might be expected, considerably
as to terminations, pronunciation, and minor grammatical
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tta'U Field Force in 1879. 219
points from the Pushto of the Yu'sufzais and the dwellers in
the north, i.e. from the dialects with which Enropeans are
familiar, but Dowhere to such an extent as not to be readily
intelljffihle. Hindustani, of a sort, is spoken by the Sayads in
the Pishin, whose natural Iaii{2^age is, however, Pushto, and by
8uch Ka'kai-s as have travelled abroad. A few of these were
met with in the Dof and Gwa'I Valleys, and about the Ro'd
Kiver.
Among the Belochis of Ba'rkho'm a sort of Hindustani
(? I'ersian), with a strong admixture of Panja'bi' and Sitidhi'
expressions and words, seems to be the lanpuape current, as
they do not apparently understand the Brahoi language.
Their language is easily intelligible to any one spe-aking
Hindustani, and they readily understand it when spoken in
return.
Histoncal Remains. — As far as could be gathered from a
hurried passage through the country, the historioul remains are
very few. In tlje Pishin there is, near Sama'lzai (not far from
7^^/lu'shdil Khu'u) a small artificial mound, with the remains of
fortifications round it. It is built on the same principle as that
at Quetta, tiud probably may be referred to the same date, but
there is no local tradition regarding it. It is called Spin iiAila,
or the White Fort. No other historical remains were seen till
the lio'rai Valley was reached, where the traditions of Na'dir
Sha'/i's march by this route t« India are still strong. There is
also a mined fort of considerable size in the centre of the valley,
called 8hahv-i- Na'dir, which, like the others, is built on an
artificial mound. All over this valley, through the Haunmba'r
Pass, and along the route taken by tbe force, pieces of pottery
and of burnt bricks are found, of a njanufacture not now known
here. These the inhabitants unhesitatingly refer to Na'dir
JSlia'A, as indeed they do everything that in old ; but it is quite
possible that their presepce is due to the former pas.sage of
caravans (ka'filas) this way.* There is also a ruined fort called
Shar-y/ntln, in Ba'rkho'm, said locally to be of a great age, which
statement must be taken for what it is worth ; and near LugaVi'
Bii'rkha'u is a ruined tomb, called 8u'ra'«, of the same pattern
and build as those of the iMu-ani nionarchs at mu'ltan'. It may
Mith some cerfcitnty be referred to the time of A/<mad tSha'A,
the lirst Dura'ni ruler.
Nnmha-s and Population. — It is of course extremely difficult
* Specimens of this potterj- were sent by tbe author to the Asiatic Society,
Eongnl, but tlu! rcaulta of the invcatigutiou (if auy) made regarding them hixn
uot yet been communicated to him.
220 Temple's Account of the Country traversed by the
to judge of the density of population in such & country as this,
but guesses may be made on such data as we have. In the
Pishin Valley some fifty-three villages were passed en rotite, and
taking this number to repreeeiit ahout half that there are in tlie
valley, and the population at 200 per village, which is probably
a liberal allowance, the total population of the valley would he
about 20,000. In the Duf Valley there are twenty-three villages^
which, at 200 per village, would yield about 60U0 inhabitants.
Dawn the Gwa'l Valley, as far as ^Au'shla'k. there are probably
about fifteen such villages, yielding a popuhitiou of 3000, From
the Dof to the Bo'rai Valley the villages could not, on the
average, contain more tiiuu 100 persons, which would give us a
population of some 2000 about the Kiver Ro'd, and of about 2O0O
more as far as the Bo'rai Valley. The villages in the Bo'rai
Valley are larger, and contain, say, 200 wrsotis each, at which
eompntiition the popidation of the Bo'rai Vulley should be about
10,000. and there are probably some 10,000 more among the
Lu'ni ATie'ls, ^o that the total numbei-s of I'athans along the
route would be about 50,000, of which 20,000 are Ka'kars.
These figures would give us, as a guess, the total number of
Ka'kars to be about 50,000, and perhaps as nuany as 75,000.*
The country is, in fact, very sparsely populated, except in a few
isolated valleys, in whicb, as may be seen from the map, the
inliabitants arc fairly dense.
In Bii'rkho'm the population may be estimated at 10,000
or more.
Skiic of Civilization. — The state of civilization of the several
tribes varies considerably with the locality, and may be gauged
by the state of the dwellings and the methods of cultivation in
vogue. As might be expected, the valleys are the most
civilized, the innabitants of the mountains apparently living
chiefly by grazing sheep and goats, and cultivating grain just
sufficient for home consumption.
Dwdliuffs. — The various kiuds of dwellings met with are
illustrateil in the plate attached to another paper,! and it will
be suftifient here to briefly explain their structure.
The huts in the Pishin Valh'V diSer considerably from those
in the country to the west of the Khitjak Puss. There the
familiar Hat-topjied and domed hut of the Southern Afghau is
everywhere to Lie seen, but in the Pisliin the roof is sloped.
The l*ishin huts are built of stones and mud, or of mud en-
tirely, or sun-dried bricks. The roof is of thatch, supported
* Col. Macgregor's ' Gnzetteer ' places them Bt 72,000. See MujorMackeazio'e
'Routes in AfgliuniBtaii " — introductory iioticir on Afglianifltan.
t ' Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal," 1880.
I
Second Column of the Tal—aw'tiali Field Force in 1879.
by strong coarse woofl-work, covered over with mud, and is the
most valuable part of the structure, on account of the diflk'ulty
of procuring the beams ; and when a village from any cause
cliaiiges its position, the roofs are always carried away to be set
up OQ the new site. These huts are very difficult to destroy,
even by fire, and are, on the whole, more substantial and com-
fortable that those further west. The average dimensions are—
siile walls, 16 feet wide by *3 feet high; gabled ends, 10 feet
high by 6 feet wide. The doors (usually only one) are about
5 feet high by 3 i'eet broad. There are no windows, but usually
three small holes, about 5 feet from the ground in the gable-
enda, supply their place.
The dwelliugs found in the Dof and Gwa'l valleys are very
similar.
In the lower gorge of the RiveV Ro'd we come upon a
much rougher style of dwelling, though it is still substnutial.
It is irregular in shape, and the walls are of rough stones, built
up without cement, on the top of which is u wall of mud.
The roof is also very irregular in shape, and, as before, of
thfttch, plastered over witli mud. There is generally one hole
in the wall as an apology for a window. The general dimensions
are — walls, 10 feet to 12 feet long; rough stone-work, about
3 feet high, and mud superstructure, 1 foot to 2 feet high;
total height of wall, about 4 feet ; that of the hut being
about 10 feet to 11 feet. The door is 6 feet high by 3 feet
Ijroad, and usually stands out from the roof on the principle
of a dormer window.
In tlie upper gorge of the River Eo'd the huts are the
roughest met with during the march, being for the most part
merely a thatch of leaves and brushwood, sup[iorted on yolea
meeting in the middle in the form of a cone or pyramid. Their
usual height is about 10 feet, and their diameter at the base is
also about 10 feet. There is a rough doorway, about 6 feet high
by 3 feet broad.
The huts of the Sho'r Valley present very much tlie appear-
ance of those in the lower Ro'd River Gorge, except that there
is no mud-work between the roof and tlie rough stone-work
of the wall, and there is no window or hole in the wall to
represent one. The dimensions are — length, 12 feet; height
of wall, 3 feet ; total height of hut, 8 feet ; door, 6 feet high
by y feet wide.
On reaching the G/iazgai Valley and the territory of the
Utma'n Khu'ls there is a considerable difference to be observed
in the congtruction of the dwellings. Those are now well-
built structures of mud, every hut being fortified and having
Teifple^
a small look-out tower attiichc'd. The walls and towers are
of mud, aud tlie roof ia sloped, and is of n similar structure
to those observed in the Pishiu Valley. The doors are very
low, probably for reasons of safety, being not more than 3 feet
in height ; aud round the top of the tower is a series of loop-
holes. Diinoijsious are — length of hut, Hi feet; height of wall,
4 feet ; total height of hut, 8 feet ; tower, if square, 12 feet high
on a 6-feet base; if circular, 6 feet ia diameter; doors, 3 feet
high by 8 feet broad.
In the IJo'rai Valley were to be seen (and the same applies
to the liu'ni Valley) the best dwellings the writer saw iu the
whole of Houtbem Afghiiriir^tiin outside Candaha'r. They are no
longer hut.s, but have become house?!, with eousiderably varying
dimensions. They are built entiridy of mud, with flat roofs,
from ofl" which the water is carried by projecting spouts. They
are generally fortifietl, aud have towers attached, and usually
only one door. The bulk of the houses, however, in the Bo'rai
Valley are mucli larger than those above mentioned, and may
be described as fortified structures of mud surrounded by a mud
wjdl some 12 feet high, and covering sometimes nearly an acre
of ground. They have usimlly several towers attached and one
door. Within the outer wall aiv a quantity of fruit-trees, and
the house probably contains a whole family. Generally also
thiTO is a low 3-feet mud-wall extending round the fields
belonging to the house. Three or four of these houses often
constitute a village.
Houseless Triltes and Kizhdais. — Some of the Ka'kars, as the
Sulima'u Khe'is and Amand Elie'h, and some of the Pa'ni'zais
and ZaAVipe'ls, seem to have no fixed dwellings at all, but live
iu rough bhmket-tents, which they shift abuut from place to
place as the exigencies of grazing require. The Achakzais are
also a tribe of this nomad description, though they own some
substantial villages about the Pisliin. In the Pishin, also, the
villagers — for grazing purposes, and sometimes to avoid the
summer heats — ^go out iuto camp. The black semi-permanent
tents of the Achakzais and the inimbitants of the country round
the Pishin are called *•' ki^Adais " (and locally al::*o " kile's " or
"kire's"). A kiz/tdai is a structure of bent willow-rods or
withies, covered over with black felt-liko blankets, but some-
times the covering is of blackened matting. They are very
warm in winter, and by <:>pening out can be made cool and
pleasant in summer. There is a space in the middle for
sheep and goats, to protect thera against the Kcvere frosts of
wiuter. The usual dimensions are — height, 4 feet; length,
12 feet ; openings or doorways, 3 feet by '6 feeL
Secmd Column of the Tal—Chdtia'U Field Force in 1879. 223
Granaries, Food-Stores and Mills, — Granaries, as such, exist
only in the Bo'rai Valley, where their construction is notice-
ahh\ They are small circular mud-towel's of peculiar build,
raised on piles about 2 feet li'rom. the ground. The average
dimensions are — height of piles, 2 feet to 3 feet; height of
tovrer, 10 feet ; diameter at top, 3 feet ; at the bottom, 5 feet
to G feet.* Grain, as a rule, is stored in sacks, weighing
160 lbs. to 2U0 lbs. {'2 to 2^ maunds), which are kept in the huts.
These sacks are of strong, substantial home-make, and valued
a goo<l deal for themselves. Bhoopa (chopped straw) is storerl
in heaps covered over with niud,as are turnips, ^tc, in England.
These neaps contain as much as 4 tons to 8 tons each (lOU to
200 mds.), and concealed among the iJhoosa are often to be
found stores of grain. Grain is also kept stored underground
under tho floors of houses, or in places known only to tho
owBers, for safety's sake. Tho A'sya's, or water-mills, show
considerablo skill in construction. They are to bo found along
the line of a kul, or natural running stream, and are worked
on the usual principles ; but often, to give the water greater
power, a portion of the stream will bo banked up to some
distance before it reaches the mill. The mill itself has its roof
on a level with the banks of the stream, and in outward appear-
ance is a small hut, of the same construction as those above
described in the I'ishiu. In places, as at A'li'zai, in the
PisLin, long lines of these a'sya's and embankments are to be
seen along the same stream.
Ctdiivation ami Irrifjaiion. — Everywhere, as far as it goes,
the cultivation of tlie Futhans is carried on with some skilL
The system of irrigation by means of ku'ls and ka're'zes has been
explained already; but in places, in addition to these, a careful
and costly (as to labour) system of reclamation of rivor-lnuds
by meaug of groins and embankments, is to bo seen along the
line of the lliver Rod, and also along tho River Kach, in tho
iSho'r Valley. These groins are usually of rough stones, but
are sometimes made of the trunks of trees. They are frctjuently
turfed over, and have willows and small bushes growing on
them. In one place, also in the Bo'rai Valley, a ku'l was
observed to be carried uudcr tho stony bed of the River To'r
KhixvAfi by a syphon, showing no mean skill in its constrnetion.
As regards the cultivation itself, the ploughing ia of the same
* Tliia giTOft a cubic meBsurement of some S.** cubic feot, ond, taking grain as
weighing a cwt. per 2J cubic feet, would give ii holiling cai^acity of about \\ ton
(for about 50 mnunds), yielding, say, 1 J ton of flour (a'tta'), i.e., about 33 lununda,
or, in otlier wordts, euough for 5 persons for a calendar year ut li lb, (J Boere) per
diem, the usual ratioa oUowed by Government for a native.
224 Temple'* Account of the Country traversed by the
rough, Bcratcby character visible tluuugbout tlio East, with
a like primitive instrument, which is by no means always even
of irou. But the sowing is careful, and in some places the lines
of the crops are as regular as with us. Thu principle as to
rotation of crops appears to be to let the land lie fallow for
sonio time, bo that a much larger portion of land appears to be
under cultivation than is really so in anyone year, and they
never seem to cultivate more than suflSces for their current
uecpssities.
The Beh'ch Tem'tonj. — There is no difference whatever to
be observed in tlic construction of the Belo'ch buildings in
Ba'rkho'm, or in their method of cultivation, irom that in the
Kaclii' Desert, or among the Belochis of our own territory, so
nothing further need be said about them here.
Fi<jhii)uj Power. — As regards lighting power, the fight at
Bo<//<a'wa proved how entirely overrated were the Ka'kars in
this respect. Practically unarmed, and utterly unacquainted
with the power of modern weapons, they can hardly be looked
upon as an enemy. A very small force of armed soldiere would
suffice to keep the peace, and, beyond casual robbing, there
would be nothing to fear from them were the country opened
up for trade. That the people of tbis part of the country are
easily cowed may be deduced fnom the fact of the voluntary
submission and "coming in" of Sha'/f Jeha'u after the fight
at Baj^/ia'wa, — a submission apparently brought about from
pressure put on him by neighbouring chiefs, who feared for
tiieir own safety. It is not likely that the inhabitants generally
would remain marauders for any length of time were a settled
governmeiit instituted ; they ai'e, in fact, too well off" for any-
thing of the kind. In the mountains and passes, however,
trouble might be expected from the Zarkha'ns, Dumars,
ZaiApe'ls and Pa'ni'zais, but it should be remembered that the
presence of a small force sufficed to keep those inveterate
robbers the Harris absolutely quiet. The Belochis have no
idea of obstructing British rule, and nothing need ever be
feared from ihem.
VII. Climate and Elevations.
AUitiides.—At is a question whether the route taken by
the force would bo always passable in winter, when the
altitudes are taken into consideration. The following are
the esiimated heights of the encainpm.ent above mean sea-
level : —
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 225
No.
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
£nc«mpment.
ElevkUon
in Feet.
Eala AbdoUaA Kha'n ..
Badwa'n
A'li'zai
Kfcu'bhdil ^Aa'n .. ..
Sharan Ka're'z
Balozai Ela're'z
I'safKach
Ispira Ha,'gh&
Khv&'n,
Chimja'n
Baia'noi
Ninga'nd
Waria'gai
Sharan
Hanoinba'r Pass ..
Trifcft Kniam Pass
Tsamaulang
Ba'IaDha'ka
Mit^M' Khu'i'n .. ..
Luga'ri' Ba'rkha'n
5600
5600
5500
5600
C300
6600
7400
7800
7900
7400
6500
5700
4900
4300
8800
4100
4000
4100
3800
3100
Traffic prohaMy impossible in ordinary Winters for 60 miles. —
Now the winter during which the late campaign was undertaken
proved an exceptionally mild one, and all the heights were
easily passable at any time, but the Klio'yeik Pass, with a
maximum altitude of 7500 feet, is said to be quite impassable
for traffic in ordinary, let alone severe, winters; so that,
arguing by analogy, all the country from Balozai Ea're'z to
Ninga'nd, nearly sixty miles, must oe calculated to be under
snow for some time, and all the way more or less impracticable
during winter.* A difficulty which may be better appreciated
by a consideration of the altitudes of the passes en route, which
are estimated as follows : —
No.
PMa.t
ElevaUon
in Feet.
1
Surai
7200
2
Mo'sai
7500
3
Ush
8200
4
To'pobargfc
8400
5
Nangalu'tM
8500
6
Baia'nai
6500
7
Hanumba'r
3800
8
Trikh Kuram .. ..
4100
9
Hanokai
5100
10
Jurnai
5000
11
Ka'baD
4300
12
Ba'la Dha'ki' .. ..
4600
13
Han
4300
* But it shotild be remembered that snow never lies long at Quetta, or in its
Talley, at an elevation of 5700 ft to 6000 ft.
t The more important are printed in italics. ,
VOL. XLIX. «4
226 Temple'* Account of tJie Country traversed hy the
No dignity from Clruuite at other Seasons. — During the bulk
of the year, however, i.e., in spriufj, summer ami autuiuu, uo
difficulties need be uppreliended from climate, and with a made
road there need be none tVoiii vet weather.
Climate. — From the list of various thermometric readings
taken during the inarch to be found attached (Appendix B *),
it will he seen that the chief feature in the climate during the
spring is the great variation hctweeu the day an<l ni^lit
temp<'ratures ; but this is not su {,'^reat as is tu be observeoTin
the plains along the Indus Valley during the cold weather
months, and is characterietic of all this part of the Asian
Continent. Otherwise, especially in the higher lands, the
climate to a European may be described as pleasant, fresh and
health-giving. It is, however, extremely hot in the daytime
in the lower lands after the Sho'r Vallej' is passed, and in
summer the climate in Ba'rkho'm is described as detestable,
pi-eferable only to that of the Belo'ch plains. But though it is
said to be very hot in the Pishin and Quetta Valleys, i.e., at
about 5800 feet, in the summer, the heat can never be oppres-
sive there, and in the highlands above this elevation there can
be no heat worth mentioniug at any period of the year.
A'^III. Pbacticability op the Route.
Advantuf^es and Disadvaniages of the Route. — By a recapitu-
lation of what has been above written we find that, as regards
the actual road, it is a good one for the country traversed, and
that the route presents no engineering lUfficulties iu the way of
constnic.ting a good made road.
(2). That the water-supply is not bad en route; the main
difficulty lying in the long distances without water, which, how-
ever, can bo paitially remedied by artificial means not now
used by the inhabitants,
(3). That the food-supplies for man and beast en route are'
enough to support life without difficulty, and of sulBciontly
frequent occurrence to prevent anxiety as to failui-e, never
more than five days' supply in hand being anywhere requisite.
(4). That there is, however, a scarcity of fuel, but not a dearth
of it
(5). That the inhabitants en rotUe would requiro to be kept
in order by force if the route were opened up lor trade, but that
they are nowhere in themselves formidable.
(6). That tho main objection to the route is in the elevation
1
I
* The readlnga were, however, oeoessarily taken in a very rough-aad>teady
Tnarner. '
Second Column of the Tal^Chdtidli Field Force in 1879. 227
of a great part of it to over 6000 feet aboTe mean sea-level
thereby rendering it likely to become impassable from snow in
winter.
Comjyanson with the BolcCn Pass Route. — But, takin* the
Bola'u Pass route as at present used,* that known as the Tal —
Cho'tia'li seems to be the better in every respect. To reach the
Bola'n, a long strip, over 100 miles, of detestable desert has to
be passed, practically imtiassable for troops or bodies of men in
the hot season, or in ordinary wet weather, and troublesome as
regards water at any time ; while to reach the Siilima'n Moun-
tains there are barely 40 miks of the low laud to bo crossed.
Again, as to foot!, there are no supplies to be procuied in the
Bola'n Pass — a march of at least six days — without previous
storage, and there is uLjo always a difficulty there as to fuel and
fodder; while the road, as at present used, simply follows the
bed of the Bola'n River, and is impassable accordingly for days
together in wet weather. And lastly, as regards climate, the
Bola'n Route has tho advantJige of being only at an elevation of
some tJUOO feet at its highest point Darwa'zu, but the terrors of
the Dasht-i-Be'daulat at its summit during bad weather in
winter are too well known to need more than mere mention
here.
Considered as ati Alternative Boute to the Bola'n. — As an
alternative route to the Bola'n, both for military and commercial
purposes, tho Tal — Cho'tiali would seem to be iuvaluable, espe-
cially as we intend to hold the Pishiji, for then Quetta and the
Pishin would po longer be de|)eudent on the Bola'n Pass for
communication with the outer world. The comparative dis-
tances to the Indus are : from Quetta via the Bola'n Pass to
Sukkur about 250 miies, and to Mithanko't about 270 miles;
from Quetta via Tal — Cho'tia'li to Mithanko't about 310 miles,
and to De'ra G/ui'zi Khiin about 21)0 miles. So that for com-
mercial reasons there is not much to choose as to distance
between the routes; but the proximity of De'ra GAa'zi Kha'n to
Mu'lta'n, now about to become an important military centra
gives additional value to the Tal — Cho'tia'li as an auxihary
route.
The Zho'ft Valley Route. — According to all native authorities
the easiest and best route to India is through the ZJio'h Valley
to De'ra Isma'il Khan, but the isolated position of De'ra Ismail
KJiiin, and its distance from all existing main lines of com-
munication, makes this an almost useless line to us. Moreover,
* It is said, however, that Cfoneml Phikyrc, of the Ikjmbay Ajiuy, in choree of
the communications along the Bola'n Vasa, hm diacovered u line by which all tho
worst foatuies of the present route can be avoidtsd.
Temple'* Account of the Country traversed hy the
before it could be practically used, the Muftsu'd Wazi'ris would
liave to be crushed or civilized.
Best Trade Rouiea via Tal ami Cho'iia'lL — Supposing the
British Goverument to decide to make the Tal — Cho tia'li a prac-
ticable route for trade,* it would appear that the best line to
toko would be from Mithauko't and Ra'jonpu'r, or from De'ra
Gh&z'i Eltan and Vaddo'r, ti> Ba'rkho'm, and thence via the Han
Pass to Cho'tiji'li and Tal ; or, if the Ma'r Fana turn out not
to be 80 impraeticablo ua reported, then r/(i the Ma'r Pass to
Cho' tia'li and Tal ; theuce through the Lu'nt Valley, theuce via
the Haiumiba'r Pass throu'^h the Bo'rai Vallt-v, thence through
the ^io'b Vailoy, and finally via the skirt-s of Mt. Kaud through
the Dof and Gwa'I Valleys to Quelta ; or via the skirts of Mt.
Kand and Barshe'r to thu Pishiu Valley. A glance at the map
will bhow that villages will lie thick along such a route, and
that consequently better roads would be met with, and greater
returnd anticipated by the trader.
IX. Miscellaneous Observations.
OeograpJdcal Notes. — Certain changes in our ideas as to the
geography of thifs district will result from the march of the Tal —
Cho'tia'li Field Force.
Firstly. The long range of mountaiua to the north of Quetta,
the Eola'n and the Marri Hills, supposed to run east and west
from the .Sulima'n Kunge, does not exist. The direction of tlie
mountains is genenillv north and south, iu lines more or leas
parallel to the Sulitna ii Range.
Secondly. The Tu'bii, Ju'ba or Yo'ba Peak, to he found on so
many maps at the head of the Zlnj'b Valley, is most likely a
myth or misnomer. Nothing approaching to such a name
could be ascertained locally.
Thirdly. Mt. Kand is not nearly so far north as previously
ftlaced ; while there are some doubts as to the existence of Mt.
Jhappar, at any rate, it is not a prominent mountain, as before
supposed. It has been placed on the accompanying map,
because a round-headed snow-capped mountain was repeatedly
pointed out from the Pishin as Mt. Chappar. When, bowever,
it came to be identified from a hill above I'saf KucU, which
should have been in its neighbourhood, an apparently low hill
* The road o»cu ina<!e, perhaps the most civiliBing Agent we could employ in
Afgbiiniatan woiilil 1x> ttio use of carta and wheeled Darriugea. The manufactare
of farthing dim wnti introduced with signal uucceas into Oandaha'r duriag tha
former war : vihj uhould uot carts siiccGC-d oa well ?
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 229
in the right position was by some of the guiJes pointed out as
Mt. Chiippar, while others seemed doubtful of its existence.
And lastly, several promiucut peaks have been fur the first
time named and placed.
As regards nomenclature the name Khojeh (or KJio'jn) Am-
ra'n Kange, is a misnomer. Eanges or lines of hills, as a rule,
have no generic names in Afghanistan, the Afghan system of
nomenclature not having yet reached that stage. But nearly
every prominent or remarkable peak has a name of its own. In
this case, it/ivva'ja Amra'n is really the name of a point above
the Gwaja Pass, and not tluit of the whole range. If any name
belongs to the entire line of mountains it is licw7/(a'ni. How-
ever, as the name Kho'\a Amra'n has become popularised in
geography, it would be a pity perhaps, as well as almost useless,
to try and alter it.
The town Peshiu also, mentioned by so many travellers, does
not exist. They probably meant by the term the cluster of
Sayad and Tari'u villages about tSayad Palnj} and A'li'zai in the
Pishin Valley.
Scenery and Landmarks. — Looking eastwards from the Pishin,
there is a grand and striking view of the serie.s of mountain-
ranges commencing from Mt, Chiltau on the south, and thence
running past Mts. Takatu', Ziir^/m'u, Pi'l, and Chappar, to
Mt. Kand on the north. Mt, Takatu' is a line mountain from
any point of view, as also is Mt. RLa'z/two, of which a grand
view is obtained from Shudand in the Eiver Ro'd Gorge. Mt.
Sur^Awand is likewise a fine and striking mountain Iroiu the
north. There is also a very fine view from the Xungalu'ua
Pass over the Sho'r Valley and (r/iubiirgai country, the Chim-
ja'n Ghar Peak and Jit. Syajgai presenting a remarkable
appearance, aud there is a pretty view towards the Slje'rkai
Peak and Koha'r Hills from Baia'nai. But with these excep-
tions the countiy is too bare and broken up into small points to
be striking or pretty. Mt. Sya'jgai, an isolated square-topped
peak, in the middle uf the Sho'r Valley near Ciiimja'n, is here
a remai-kable object from ail points; but it would not be so in
India generally, where there are many like it in all parts of the
country from Ka'jputa'na to Mysore.
Heifjhfs of Mountains. — Many of the mountains rise to a con-
siderable elevation, but the heights stated in the aceomjjanyiug
list (page 230) were guessed at on the spot from such flata as
could bo obtained.
Geological Formations.* — The geological formation of the
* A Paper by the author, on the geolopicol formation of the country puaed
ihroqgh by the Second Colaran Tal — Cbo'tia'li Field Force, will he found in tho
' Journal of the Aiiatio Society of Deugul ' for 1879.
:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
Tftkatu'
Pi'l .. ,
Cbftppar
Knod . .
Sor^hwand .
SpinsAcAar .
Burlo' ..
MutAAilnr
Nn'via't
greater part of the country passed throagh should apparently
be rclerred to the Tertiary period. Messi-s. Me<llicott and
Feistmantel, of tlio Geological HaiTey of ludia, w!io kindly
examined the geological specimens the writer collected, re-
ported after a first cursory examiuation as follows: —
" The fossils are exclusively tertiary, none are post-tertiary.
They are mostly numraulitif : possibly all of that age. The
supposed lizard is a detached segment of an echinoderm. A
very large proportion of the rocks are of such limestone, sand-
stone, and sliale, as are usual in tertiary formations. There is
no fragment of granitic or nietftmorphic rock, except one which
is crystalluie limestone, but this may be a contact rock. The
same may be said of a few specimens of indurated silicious rock,
which are of the type common at the contact of eruptive rock.
Some of them are jaspidious. Of trappean rocks there are not
a few; some are syenitic and dionitic (non-quartziferous), and
some are earthy amygdaloids. Tlio erystalliuo minerals are the
comraonest forms of quartz, calcspar and gypsum ; one is clear,
white, cubical rock-salt. There is no metalliferous rock or
mineral in the wliole collection" (GUO specimens). When,
however, the specimens shall have been referred to their proper
geographical position a better idea of the geology of the country
will h« obtained.
TJie Ghuis. — l)ut the most remarkable point as to conforma-
tion to be noticed is the peculiar glacis, or slopes up to the hills
from the vulleys. And tit the risk of recapitulating what has
been pnblishotf by the writer elsewhere, a snort description of
this glacis will be here given. It is to be seen everywhere ia
AfgSnmistan proper, though not noticeable ia Beluchistan or
south of the Bola'u or Han Passes, and is said to be a common
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'H Field Force in 1879. 231
feature throughout Persia and Central Asia. It is to be seen
at the foot of every range of hills, varying in length and height
according to the elevation of the neighbouring mountains above
the valley-level. In the Kadanei Valley, where the Kho'ja
Amra'n luinge rises 3000 feet and more above the mean valley-
level, it is 15 miles long, and nearly 1500 feet in height ; while in
the narrower valleys, such as the Gwal, the slopes on either side
almost meet in the centre, leaving hardly any flat spaces at
all. One result of this glacis is that the valley-level seems
to be reached long before it really is so. Its surface is gene-
rally much water-scoured, and is covered over with stony de-
tritus from the mountains, and over it also wander the stony
beds of numerous torrents. The origin of the phenomenon
apparently lies in excessive denudation of the moimtains, caused
by the absence of forests on their slopes, and the soft, shaly
nature of many of the summits, which last, again, probably
arises from the combined action of frost, snow, and rain.
APPENDIX A.
kTINEEARY from KALA ABDULLAH KEA'N.
No.
6
7
8
9
10
il
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Stage.
Badwa'n
A'li'zai
Khu'aMil Kh&'n
Sharsn Ka're'z
lialozai Ka're'z
lat cxcureion to Gwa'l, 10 miles.
2nd excarsioD, Gwa'l to A'mada'n, 14J milos.
I'safKach
Ispira Ba'rjtto
Khwa'ra
Ghimja'n
3rd excursion towards Z/to'b Valley, 8 miles.
Baia'nai
NlDga'nd
Waria'gai
Sharan
Hanumba'r Pass
TriArA Kuram Pass
Taamaulang
Ba'laDha'ka
Mi«WKhu'i'n
Loga'ri' Ba'rkh'an
Miles.
Total
Miles.
6
12}
18}
11
29}
6i
36
8i
44}
9i
53?
16
691
18}
6}
89i
22
ill}
9i
121;
12}
133
16
149
161
12
18}
180£
16
196
11
207;
16
223
12i
235|
232 Temple's Account of the Country traversed hj the
General forward bearing, 80°.
FiBST Stage.
Kala Ahdnllah Kha'n to Badwfi'n. Ti miles.
11th March.
Kala AbdiiUiih Kha'n, 5600 feet, is a village at the entrance to the /TAo'jak
Pass from the I'isbiii side to 8, of the r>as3. It is the residence of Mi'r
Asliini A7«a'r(, Ahda'li, the Sirda'r, or chief, of the Achakzai section of the
Dura'uis. He is the soa of the late Mi'r AlidullaA Wialn. The village is
not large, say twenty houses, though it hus the appearance of being so on
account of the sera'i or fort Mi'r Asliun KJia'h has built by it. There are
some trees and a garden iu this upon which the Sirda'r has spent, he says,
Rs. 2000. The arable land between the A'Ao'j.ik stream and the village is said
to be a ja'gi'r and rent-free.
The croiw grown hereabouts are wheat, barley, millet, Indian com (maiKe),
and lucerne.
Supplies are plentiful of all the sorts generally obtaiuable iu Afghanistan,
viz., bhoosa, barley, milk, butter, fowls, eggs, and 1 saw some cloths of European
make also being sold. The supplies come from the district round, IluUi'hullah,
a large Achakiai village to s.k., furnisliiug a quantity under the influence of
the Su-da'r, who had the farming of this [art of the i'ishin under the Ameer's
Government,
There is a large siwca for im encaTiipmcrjt alon=:sido the KJio'yxk stream
(about a mile from tiie village ), which has here a broud stony Iwd like most
mountain rivers, through wbich the river winds in several streams. At this
time of the year, winter, the stream at this part is small, but clear and sweet,
with a fast current. The drawbacks as an cncamping-ground are that the
place is liable to violent winds and dnst-stt^rms, and in the winter there is
some danger of being snowed up. Wood, too, is scarce in tlie district, and
the local supply is soon used up if a force has to halt in lad weather. The
village and encampment are situated just within the range of low hills at the
enlntnce of the gorge of the A'Ao'jak struain. These hills are bnre and some-
whiit bleak, but the view is fair on the whole. There is a view n.e. into the
risliin through the outraiue of the ptiss, but it is not extensive. Mount
Takutu', 10,500 feet, is visible across the valley. There is considcrablo culti-
vation along the hill-sloi>es.
The road leads right through the A7»o'jak, River in its several beds altogether
for about i mile, then over sunje uncultivated lands for about 4 miles to
Ihilmmdil A7ia'M » vilh;ge, and then through the Arambi stream, after which
it possea a series of water channels, or torreut-bt-ds, for 2i milesi to Badwa'n,
These beds are stony and full of detritus, which is washed down in enormous
quantities from the lare hills to the n. ; in fact, the whole country between
the streams is waterwom and a{vpears to be sa)nrcd after all heavy rams. It,
with the ATAojak and Aranihi streams, is liahle to sudden floods, when the
water rushes down with great violence, but to no depth. The road is, on the
whole, bad, except in fine weather, and io bad weather, if not impassable,
would give great trouble to baggngc-animals. The higher places between the
rlvfir-bcda, where the waiter cannot scour, are usually cultivated, and tliore are
patches of cultivation along the hill-sides.
At 4 mile-s to the left, close by the road, are imss«l Rahamdil Kha'n'a
viliao;es of the Mu'sizai sept of the Tor Tari'ns, a li\rgish filiice, to the back of
which, over the low hills, lie the villages of Mi'r ICalam A'Aa'n.of the Ka'kozai
HC])t of the Achakzais.
There is an interesting a'sya', or waterraill, near this, with a raised ku'l
(ofien watercourse) leading to it, and close by is a ka'ie'z, but most of its wells
are drj*. Some distance to the right also lie Brija'n Kala, called also Auli'iL
Second Column of the Tal-^Chdtia'li Field Force in 1879. 233
Kala after its malik, of the Mft'ezai sept of the Tor Tari'ns about 4 milea off,
and Da'dgwal, of the Mu'sizai sept of the same tribe, alwiit 5 miles distant
A noticeable feature in the country is the jieculiar glacis or slope up to the
hills oa the valley-sides, which is also to be seen ou the other side of the
Kho'jak Pass in the Kadnuei Valley. The bouses also differ a goo<I deal in
build from those on the other side the A'Ao'jak, the peculiar domed roof is
nowhere seen here. ITie kile's (properly kisAciais), or black semi-permanent
tents of the Achakhais, are to be seen dotted all over the hill-sides and the
plain. Largo quantities of sheep and goats are to bo seen grazing, but not
many cattle : horses are to l>o found in the Sayad villages engaged in the
Kara'chi horse-trade.
Iladwa'n, 5600 feet, raalik She'rdil Kh^'n, is a To'r Tari'n village of the
Badozai section ; not jiaiticularly large, but strajigling, like all the villages of
the Pjshiu. Supplies were plentiful, and willingly offered — bhoosa, barley,
wheat, eggs and butter, ghee, fowls, sheep and goats, and also several Persian
greyhoun<i» were offered for sale, but all the prices asked were exorbitant ;
water is plentiful fr»jm a small stream. Trees are seen on the hill-slopes and
oa the tops of the hills, but otherwise the country is bare of trees as usuaL
The chief natural products are southernwood and a weed like an onion.
There is a fine view from the village over the valley. To the s.e. is the
(VViaz line of hillu, separating the Plshin and Sha'Iko't (Quetta) Valleys, behind
which, lying to the s. of Quetta, rises Mt. Chilian to a considerable height.
To the K. lies Mt. Takatu' and the snow-capped peaks Zar^^Au'n, Pi'l and
Kand, in succession, to the n. of Takatu'. Itehiind these ranges again is visible
the round snowy head of Mt. Cbappar in the distance. Ahfjut fi miles distant
to the E. lie the Sayad villages of Shahda'd and Sayad Paind, and beyond
them agaiuj at gome 10 miles, the Tor Tari'n village of A'li'zai.
Second Stage.
Badwa'n io AlHtai. 12\ miles. General forward bearing, QQ>^. 12th March,
The road runs mainly tlirough light sandy soil at the foot of the hills to
the N. of the Pishin for about 10 railcs, but for the last 2 miles, it goes through
torrent-scoured country, where it is stony and ctivered with detritus. In parts
it is broken by water washing through the soil and creating irregularities iu
the surface, and it crosses several small nullahs with hard windy bottoms and
steep diflicult banks. In fine weather the road is good, easy and pleasant,
but hefivy and troublesome for baggage-animals after rain or in bad weather,
especially in the stream-beds or broken ground, where the soil is liable to
become iiuicksand in places. Opposite Badwa'n the River Ch6r runs a few
hundred yards to the s. of the road. Hero its channel is very deep, and its
banks impracticable except by ramping. Alx>ut 5 miles out, to u., a mile
distant from the road, are the ruins of S.ayad Sa'lo, a large village, the inhabi-
tants of which have removed to the Quetta district. At 6 miles out, the road
passes Sayad Paind, 5 miles a. of which lies Knrl>?'ln, whose inhabitants
claim to be Sayods, but arn disowned by them. The Karbe'laa seem to bo a
sept apart, for neither Tari'ns, Ka'kars, Dura'ais or S.\vail8 care to own them.
Alx)iit ft mile off the road to Jf. lie three villages in quick succession, Haji'zi',
Shahda'd, and Gauri, the first two are Sayad and the latter an A'li'zai (Tor
Tari'n) villnge. Two hxA nullahs are passed just before reaching Sayad Paind
and the River Ch6r shortly afterwards. The villages about hero lie pretty thick,
and the land is extensively cultivated. After jmssing Gauri the road goes
through a graveyard, iu which is a mound with a Sayad Pi'r's (saint's) tomb
on the top of it. His name was Ajaiab. Shortly after this it runs past
Ajabzai, a Sayad village : to the s. of this, about i mile distant, is a copse or
Temple's Account of the Counfri/ traversed hy the
enclosure of trees, said to l«ave been the rt'sulencc of Ajaiab, tbo Pi'r above
meutioned. Ilero also to the N., about 4 miles dislant, and close under the
hills, are visible the huts of some Ka'kara of the Sulima'n Khe'l section. The
road next passea the A'li'zai (Tor Tari'n) village of Sayamiwi, and finally,
after crossing a biid nullah, roaches A'li'zai (Tor Tari'n) itself, aliout a mile
further on. All tlie villages, especially Shohda'd, are large for Afghan villagM,
and appear to bo well-to-do. 1 he inhabitants have a more civilised appearance
than I have yet seen elsewhere, and seem well disposed towards us. A great
number apeak Hindostani.
A'li'zai, 5500 feet, is a large well-to-do Tor Tari'n village. The supplies
were plentiful, principally as before, but the prices were much more reasonable.
Bullocks, horses, camels, were offerc*! for sale. I saw also largo quuntitiea of
shceji and goats and donkeys grazing, and near A'li'zai yilenty of cattle.
The country about kioks fertile, and is a good deal under cultivation. Tbo
natural products noticeable et» roidc are tumarisk, southernwood, moss,
camelthom, the onion-like weed above mentioned, ami a mossy shrub with %.
long flower-stem to it. Trees also seem more plentiful than usual, and here
and there nea» the villages are some fine ones. Near A'ii'zai there is ao
interesting seri&s of a'sya'a (w,itermiUs) along the lino of a stream, which ia
raised by embankments at the head of each a'sya', and then shot down into it
by a wooden shoot. These mills are well worked, and use»l to pay a tax of
Ks., 5i yearly to the Ameer's Govommeut.
A flue and clear view of the peaks above mentioned, Chiltan, Takatu',
Zariy/m'n, Pi'l, Chappar and Kaud is obtained here, all lying to the b. und e.,
Bud at this time of year all snow-clatl : to the n. runs u low line of volcanic
hillfi about 4 miles distant. Up to these the glacis above mentioned is longer
uud more m;irked than usual. A'h'zai lies on the slope, and from it, accord-
ingly, an exlenaive view of the Pishin is oblainetl.
Thibd Staos.
Ali'zai to Khu's7i(2i7 Kha'n. 11 miles, Q«neral forward bearing, 110".
14 th March.
The rooil at first runs through light sandy soil, more or leas covered with
detritus aad scored by the rains. After about a mile it crosses the River To'^/tai
in its scvcml branch&s, all of which have stony bottoms and no banka to
fijx'nk of, and the water is about ankle-deep. At 4 miles it crosses the River
Muzarai, a similar stream in all resjiects. At this jwiut the hills to the N. of
the Pishin approach to within a mile of the rt.>ad, and the country is mnch
water-washed and stony. The raid tiien jiassos tbrough a much broken
country intersected by dec-p mdlahs, wbit-h Would give a gootl deal of trouble
in wet weather, as far aa the 'Jth mile, where it crossefi the Hirer Lo'ra. The
soil in the broken land is clayey, and in wet weather slippery and biid for
animals. At the point where the Uiver Lo'ra is crossed the river has low and
easy hanks and a stony bijttom. Its bed is about 50 yards broad, and the
stream knee-deep. After this the road passes over a stony water-scoured
country, and crosses several streams and torrent-beds, the water about aukle-
deep, for alxjut a mile, when the River BiirKo' is reached — here of a similar nature
and dfpth to the Uiver Lo'ra — ami a mile further on, through cultivated fields^
lies A7»'uslidil Kftn'ii. As may be Kuip|K>3ed, the road winds a go<Ml deal, but
its general direction is E.8.K. It may be pronounced to be bad in anything
but very fine and dry weather, and would always be troublesome for baggage-
animals or wheeled carriages. It is, however, the beat lino to take, running as
it docs aa near the hills as practicable, for all the streams, which are hero
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 235
shallow with low banks, verj' soon eat deep into the sandy and clayey soil
formed by the wash from the hilla, and become formidable streams, with high
overhanging hanks, impracticablo without ramping, wbilo the land about them
is much broken and cat into by the annual rains. There is a short cnt &om
A'li'zai to ^u'uhdiL Kfa'n by the Tillage of Bagarzai,but it ia not a desirable
route on this very arcount.
Tbo villages arc numerous about thiR part of the valley, which is thickly
populated. From a jxiLnt on the road near the River To'i/Iiai the following are
visible. To N. Ka'kozai and ^Madat TAbdal), both Adiakzai villages— A'ta'
Moliammad (A'li'/ai) and Ikahamzai (malik, Sayad La'l). To the a. and 8.B.
Ma'likai (Tor Tari'n), Ya'sinj;zai (malik, Sayad To'ti) and Ya'singzai (nialik,
Sayad She'rbat), Sojnm'icai (A'li'xai) and two li.igarzai villages (muliks, Sayad
Paiyo and Sayad Alab). These villages vary iu distance Iroin 1 to 6 miles.
At 7 miles out, about 1 mile to n., is auolhor Brabainzai village (malik,
Sayad £AaiQa'ndai), ou a hillock, and about half a mile to s. of this is Brahamzai
proper, the malik of which is Do'st Mohammad, — by which the road poases, at
this point turning s. ; from here a garileu with trees near the River Lo'ra, belong-
ing to Sayad Faiyo of Bagarzai, is seen. About a mile s. of Urnhamzni lies
Sama'lzai (l:>ayad), through which also the road passes. Near this to 8. is the
remains of a snjuli artificial hill, apjiarently an old fort — there are remains
aboat it. It is like the fort at Quetia on a small scale. The natives know
nothing about it, but call it Si)i'n KJiila. (the Wliite Fort). The To'r Tari'n
village of Manzakai hcs .about a mile to s. on the side of a low hill. From
Samu'lzai ore visible to it., at about 6 to 8 miles distant, three Lu'r Kha'aizai
(T'or Tari'n) villages, whose maliks are Mohammad tSa'dik, La'l Mohammad,
and Vaki'l. After leaving Sama'lzai the road runs e. again to Dab Kiia'tiizai,
near which to s. is an empty fort called Zarra A7*ila, for a mile, and finally s.
for another mile to the cluster of villa^'eH around the fort of A7(u'8hdil Khu'n,
all of which are Tor Tari'n, except Allahda'd, which is Sayad. It appojirs
that one Mu'lla Allahda'tl was a Savad Pi'r (naint), and there ia a Zia'nit (sacred
tomb) to him thero. The Tor I'ari'ii villager are She'A7ia'lzai, Kanm'lzai,
Ku'rzai and Ma'likya'r, ahd near the lultcr are the remains of a deserted
vil]a;4e of the Ma'likyn'rs, who moved to tho present site not very long ago.
At the head of the valley to the N.E.,al)ont 8 miles distant, are tho remains
of the fort of Hii'ji Klm'n, the heail of the Araand A'Ae'l Ka'kars. Of these
villages only Ya'singzai, Manzakai and Ma'lky.a'r are of any size.
The country jtiissed iLruugh is similar to that previously deacriljed, and its
natural products and croi« the same. The ground near the hills is uncultivated
except in patches, but there is extensive cultivation along the Ime of villages,
except in the broken ground, which is quite bare. Water is stored in smaU
irrigation-tanks in places, and ku'ls and a'sya's are visible everywhere. There
is a newly-dng ka're'z running Iwtwecn Dab Kha'nizai and Sama'lzai, the
wells of which are very deep, small and well dug. Sheep, goats and donkeys
aro to be seen all along the hills, and about AViu'shdil Kha.'n cattle fn quan-
tities. There are trees about the villages and pistachio-trees along the hill-slopes
to tho K. of A'Au'shdil Kka'n, othcnvise tho country is bare. The people en
route appear, as before, to be well-to-do, speak Uindostani to a great extent, and
have travelled a good deal.
^iu'shdil Khn'n, 5600 feet, is now an empty fort, jartially ruined. It is
built in the usual way, and is about 100 yards square. It was from this that
tho Ameer's naib (lieutenant), Nu'r Mohammad Kh&'n, Ba'rakzai, governed,
but he fled on our a[>proach, and the place is now used as a Government godown
(warehouse), ia charge of another Nu'r Mohammad Kh&'n, a Belo'cb, in otir
employ. 'I'ho siipjilies now collected are of all stirts, and very plentifid ; but
the prices are very high. A road from this leads, vid No'a Ba'za'r (Batazai,
Tor Tari'n), to Quetta, and one is said to lead, via tho vilkgos of Mehtarzai
236 Temple** Account of the Countrt/ traversed hj the
and JiSiinjagfti, through a pass near Mt. Kand to the ^o'b valley, Tinu'sh-
dil Aliji'n is said to be the site of a proposed British cantonment. Water, a*
usual here, is plentiful and pood. There is a view over the valley to Mt.
A'Awa'ja Amrau and the Gwa'ja Pass.
FouBTH Stage.
Khu'«A-rft7 Kh'an to Sharan Ka're'z. 6i miles. General forward bearing,
108°. 17th March.
The road leads past the village of Karaa'lzai (Tor Tari'n)— over a detritus-
strewn country at an easy upward gradient, towanls the hitlfl to n.e. of the
rishin for about 3 railes, sfjinething 8. of e., after which it turns northwards
for a mile, bearing 75°. During this mile it crosses several torrent-l)eds, and
is somewhat hilly. After this it follows the line nf the Uiver Sharan, in an
easterly direction. At its entrance the gorge of the river is about 300 yards
wide, but it rapidly narrows to about 80 yards, and at imlf-a-mile from the
entrance the road descends into the river-bod, which is hard and stony. The
hills on either side are not high, aay 250 feet in the highest part, and are
c"om]X»sed mostly of a soft slaty and Blitily rock. The bed is narrow in places,
not more tkm 20 yards wide, so that ounils or l»<;gage-ftnimal8, and all
wheeled carriages, would have to go in single file. The river itself is usually
an insignificant stream, and there are no signs of its ever becoming a fonnid-
able torrent. The road up it winds a gooti deal, but the upward gradient is
not great. At about a mile from the camping-ground the road leaves tlie
river-hed, and goes over a small kotal (jmss) ; from this to the camy) the gra-
dient ia stooinsh, but the ground is lirm. Such a road must, fKtm its nature,
be impracticable during wet weather, but the stream would soon nm down
after heavy rains. It would be easy to find a line for a good road practicable
in any weather along the river-side. No villages, or even huts, are met with
after Kama'Izai.
Sharan Kn'rc'z, G300 feet. There is no viillage here, and no huts for Bome
distance ofl' the road. The hills are inhabited by Ka'kars, of the Sulima'a
Khii'\, Amaud .fl^ie'l, Pa'nizai, and Shaniozai sections, who do not hero live in
villages, and all their huts are removed some distance from the road for
rcaaons of safety. The ka're's was the property of Sayad Mu'lla A'Aa'lakda'd
( = Al!ahda'd), whoso zia'rat (tomb) ia near A7m'shdil A'Aa'ii, aud nowbelongB
to the Tari'n 2nmi'iidars (landowners) of that neighbourhood ; beyond thi«
point it belongs t«i the k.Vkars. There are several narrow, dccji wells in it,
and the water is good. The c!amj)ing-ground is hilly and on broken gronnd,
but the space is lair and the soil dry ; it is, however, liable to high winds.
The main range of the hills is about 3 miles lo the e., but points near camp,
for picquets, can easily be found, eflectually overlooking the country. There
is a fine view over the Pishin from many points near. A mountain path
leads to Barsho'r to the n. in the country about Mt. Knnd. Supplies are fair.
The country passed through as far as the gorge of the River Sharan is much as
before; cultivation near the villages round A'Au'shdil Kh&'n, and then stony
water-scoured country, crossed by many small torrent-beds, and cultivated only
in patches in the hollows. At this time of year, March, some of the wheat
was about 6 inches high. The southtrnwood and camelthorn are thick, and
the camcl-gruzing, con.sequently, is here plentiful and good. Barl»ry bushoB
may also be seen pretty thick in some of the torrent-beds. In the river gorge,
gnun, both fine and coarse, and reeds are to be found, especially al>out the
damp ground, causeil by the frequent springs in its ncighbourhotxl. Wheat is
also grown about the river wherever practicable. After the kotal the country
is very broken, but tlie natural products are the same as before, and even iu
Second Column of the Tal—Clw'tiali Field Force in 1879. 237
these hilU wheat and barley cultivation is largely carried on by means of
ku'id, or artlficml watercourses. Cattle and sheep are to be seen grazing on
the lower slopes. Trees are scarce, but a few pistachio-trees are to be seen
about tbe hills. The climate is not particularly pleasant, but not unhealthy.
Now, i.e., in the spring, the sun is hot iu the clay tinio, but frequently a bitterly
cold wind blows, and at night there Ls a hard frost. In wet, and cloudy
weather it is very cold, with rain in the valleys and snow on tbe hills, abovo
6000 feet. These remarks apply to the N. of the Pishin generally ; the eastern
alopes of the Kho'\dk are much wiirixier.
Fifth Stage.
Bharan Ka' re' s io Balotai Ka're'z. Similes. General forward bearing, 96°.
19th March.
The road leads towards the Sural Pass, general forward bearing, 108°, at
firet through very wild and broken country, with sharp ascent* and descents
in rapid succession, but after a few hundred yarda it follows the flat |>ebbly
bed of a mountain-stream, the River Surai, which is about 70 to 100 yards wide,
with a general bearing of 110** from Sharan Ka're'z. The iiradient is at first
easy, but after about a mile the ascent becomes considerable and very trying
for baggage-animals, and the river-bed gradually narrows to 30 yards after 2
miles, and to 15 yards after 2i miles. The stream is usually dried up, only a
little water being found trickling in places from springs in its bed. At one
point, 2i miles from where the road enters the nullah-bed, a short zigzag, with
a 12-feet road, has beeu recently made, to avoid a narrow place which is only
4 feet wide. After this tho roatl in the stream is the reverse of good, being
f) to 13 yaniswide, with a considerable ascent. At about half-a-mile from the
top of the Surai Pass, which is reached in 3i miles from Sharan Ka're'z, a
very winding zigJtag has been recently constructed, at a fair gradient, with a
6-feet road. The aaccnt over the pass is about 300 feet. 1 ho descent into
the Dof Valley is at first very rapid and winding down a recently made road,*
and then for a mile down tho bed of another stream, also called tho Uivcr Sural,
which is similar in all respects to its namesake on tho Pishin side. The
general bearing forward of the deacent u about 1C7°, or nearly s.E. At the
point where the stream debouches on to the valley the road to Balozai Ka're'z
turns northwards across tho Dof Valley (general forward bearing, 80*^) till the
village is reached about 4 miles further on across the River SurAAab; here a
dry insignificant torrent-bed, about 50 yards wide, with a stony bottom, and
banks from 2 to 5 feet hijth, easy and jjracticable in any weather. The road
as at present used is one only practicable in fine weather, but there is nothing
great in the natural difficulties of the pass, and a little engineering should
render it an ea.<sy one and always practicable.
A bridle-path leads from Sharan Ka're'z to Sa',9Aai, over a bill about 300
feet higher than the Surai Pass, capable of being rendered practicable for
troope. Another bridle-path leads from tho bottom of tho zigs^g in the Surai
Pass to Lu'r Anga'ng, and another again from that place to No'a Ba'za'r in
the Pishin, via the A'Aarzaii^ai Pass. A main road leads B. from the Dof
Valley to Quetta, ma Zary/m'ti Ka're'z and A'Au'shla'k, and another u. to tbe
Zhct'h valley, via A/mnch:igai on the Eloi>es of Mt. Kaiid, And lastly there is
a eattlo-track near the village of Shakar into the Pi'l country to b.e.
The country about the Surai Pass is very wild and broken, com]>osed prin-
cipally of a series of conical hills, of a soft ahaly and slate rock, which main-
All coostruoted, I believe, by Lieut. Wells. B.E.
238 Temi^le'^ Account if the Country traversed h/ iJie
tegrates on contact with the nir. The ovei^otvths are 8ontberu\voo«i, camel-
thorn, and coane grass in tofts, and dwarf tamarisk and barbary bushes are to
be found in the river-beds ; some Sharwa'n or Shnai (? [listachio) trees also
grow on tho hills, and I saw one chen-y-tree. Towards the summit of the
pass there are some oUvc-trecs, a fi-ai;rant bush, something like broom in
appearance, and a plant like a dwarf holly.
At the top of the pass there is a fine view over the Piahin, but no cmlti-
vation is to l>e seen anywhere about it.
I'he I^f Valley is an upland valley at a great elevation, 6500 feet. It is
about 15 miles long by about 8 broad, and ita general direction i.s from b.n.e.
to 8.S.W. It is closed at its s. end by the gorge of the Kiver Suri-Aa'b, and at its
northern end by some low bills. The valley is drained by the Biver Sur^-Aa'b,
into which nin two smaller streams, the Kiver Bo'd and the llivcr Nari'u. The
remarkable glncis \-isible in the rishin is also to be observed here, and tlio
water-scour is also considerable. Cultivation by means of ku'k and ka're'iea
is carried on by the river- banks and in the hollows as usual. Wheat, millet,
Indian com, and barley are the crops grown. Where not cultivated, the
country is bare of trees, except about the villages, and covered over with a
tliick growth of camelthom and southernwooii. The soil is light, san<ly, and
friable, and not nearly so good as in the Pishin, Ka're'zes are esj-Hcially
numerous, being dug to a considerable depth, ami there seems to be no lack of
water. Sheep and goats and cattle are plentiful, and supplies of the onlinary
kind obtainable everywhere.
The valley is well jiopulatwl ; tlio nnniber ofvil!a]:;e5 being no leas than
twenty, but nono of them are large, excepting Balozai Ka're'z and jST^'iuui
Ka're'z. All the inhabitants are Ka'kars, anil appear quiet and well-to-do,
despite their bad name, exceyiting those about the Sural ra.ss, who have a
Mverty-atrickcn appearance. The villages are, going up the valley from the s.,
Ku'zanga'ng, Lu'ranga'ng, Mohammad Shari'f, KshoT Ka're'z, Zarghu'a
Ka're'z, Shakar, Kha'mzai Ka're'z, Me'ldia'u, Sa'yAai, Pharaa'vvan, Balozai
Kare'z, Woclmi^Ia, Do'wad, Dilsho'r, Mur^/mi, Nari'n, Tlarai, Baipii,
Tlarai (2), and Ka'hsn.
A view of Mts. Kand and Takntu' is to be obtained anywhere in the vall^,
and also of Mt. Sur£//iwaud, an isolated peak to the E.
Tho climate at this lime of the year, spring, is pleasant^ the thermometer
ran^iug from 75^ in the day to 25" at night, and the cold wind of the FiaLin
is shut out by the surrouudiriL; hilLs.
Llalozai Ka're'z, 6G00 feet, is a Ka'kar village, of the Pa'nizai section, and is
situated in the centre of the valley on the River Ro'd, near' some low isolated
hills. It is of some size. Supplies are of the usual kind and plentiful, prices
being high, as elsewhere in this part of Afghanistan, though not so high aa
placed by tho 2x>litical authorities. The camping-ground is about a mile from
the village, on the sloyics of a low hill. The s^iace is large and the natural
dnuDage good ; water is near, plentiful, and good.
PiBST ExcDBSiON. — BoloMi Ka'rt'z to Owa'l. 10 miles. General forwiunl |
bearing, 220°. 21st March.
The road leads offs.E., past the village of Khu'uizai Ka'rt'z, through a culti-
vated country for about three miles, when it nears tlie Pinnkai Hilb, It hero
enters a small pass or gap in the hills by an insignificaut tnillali-btd. It then
passes along the Bouthem face of the hills for about half-a-mile, and then
enters another similar small \^&s or gap. Here it is somewhat difficult, and
the descent is steepish, about 4"^, followmg a nuUah-bed for about 400 j^ards.
The nulkh is about 10 yards wide, and would have 3 feet of water in it alter
Second Column of the Tal — Cho'tidli Field Force in 1879.
rains. Doth these passes can, however, be easily turned by following the bed
of the River (V/iobarga. Alter the second piiss the road d<^boucheB, ojnioaite
Zurghu'a Ka're'z, on to the narrow valley called the Gwa'l Valley, which is
about ihrcu uiikvs wide, and loUowa down the centre of it in & 8.E. direction.
Ileru it is stony aud firm, and, for an Afghan road, good. It crosses several
small torrent-beds, and two streani-l)eds, viz., the Biver O/iobarga and the
Biver Dargai, neither of which would be formidable in any weather. These
join about 2i miles from Gwa'l, and form the Gwa'l Kiver, which about Gwa'l
is a \m>ad torrent-bed. The average gradient of the rood is about ijO', or one
in 100. The Gwa'l Valley, down which these two slrejuus drain, runs along
the base of Mt. Takatu' into thcSha'l ValUy, say some 20 mile*. The road may
be pronounced good for Af^hauistau, and should give no trouble at auy timo,
except fur the first three miles, when it wuuld be troublesome iu wet wtuther.
The country in the Dui Valley is as before mentioned. Ku'ls and ka're'zes
abound everywhere, the wells iu the latter being very deep. About A'Aa'nizai
Ka'rc'is, manji't, called locally mant't, is cultivated for dyeinf; purposes, giving
a bright re^l dye. It is said locally to grow nowhere else, but I have seen it
about Kandaha'r. The cultivatitju is costly and troublesome a}»parently, as it
is growTi, like celery, in deeply furrowed land. The value of the crops in the
valley is siud to bo Rs. 1000, and they bt4ong to u good rnauy owners. Where
not cultivated, the land is water-scoureil and stony. There are a good many
fruit-trees about the village. The Pioakai Uiils are water-scoured, undu-
lating and atony, and appear to he formed of conglomerate. There is some
cultivation along the fiats at their bases. The Gwa'l Valley has much the
same a|ipearanoo as the other valleys in tliia country, cultivated in patches,
but generally stony and covered over w^ith a growth of southernwood and
camellhom. On the w. side are the Pinakai Hills, of no great height, fonning
a much broken hilly country between this valley and the gorge of the Sur-
A'Aa'b, and on the k. side are the Darg.'ii Hills, rising to a considerable height,
cidminating in the peaks called UsAdy, Hurana', and Mu'llaba'ri. The glacis
observal)le elsewhere is also to be remarked here. The soil in the valley does
not apjjcar to be deep, about 2 to 2i loet over conglomerate. It is very light
and friable. Water seetns to Iw abuaiiant everywhere. Sheep and goats, but
no cattle, were seen feeding in quantities. There are a good many trees on
the hill-slopes about Gwa'l.
The villages passed were ^/m'nizai Ka're'z, a large Pa'nizai (Ka'kar)
village, with a kind of mud bastiuued fortinit,andZar,9(^u'n Ka're'z (Sara'ng-
zai, Ka'kar), and Jvsho'^i Ka're'z (I'sa' iiAc'l, Ka'kar), both open vilhiges of a
fair size.
Gwa'l, 6100 feet^ is a long straggling open Pa'tiizai (Ka'kar) village of some
size. Sufipliea are sufficient : bhoosa, barley, grass, firewood, milk, eggs, fowls,
goats and sheep. Prices are nut quite so high as usuaL The camping-ground
is in cultivated land, but the 8{sico is large ; water, near, good, ami plenlifuL
There is a fijie view of Mts. Takatu' and Zar<//>u'n from the villiige, and from
the Pinakai Hills to the rear, of the Shargaudai Peak to the v., and of Mts.
Sur^/*wand and Tsa'ru to n.k. A i»th leads n. into the SurA-Aa'b Valley
over the Pinakais, and these hills can be turned by an easy road a little to the
s. into the Piahin valley towards JSTAu'hadil AVia'n.
SitcoKo ExcTJKSios.— Gwtt'Z to f7khnjttgh</oi Pa$$ and A'vuidu'n. General
forwanl hearing to Pass, 130°; to A'madu'n, 107° j to Pass, 91 miles; to
A'madu'n, Hi miles. 22nd March.
The rood follows the Kiver Gwa'l for about half-a-mile, and then turns across
the valley to the eatraooe of the Guri/mi Defile iu the Dargai Hillsj which is
I
240 Temple's Account of the Country traversed hy the
reached in three miles, bearing from Gwa'l 188% or 8. So far it is easy, and
would present no difficulties at any time. At the entrance to the defile, whidi j
is in fact the gorgeof the Kivcr Guri/*ai, the river is crossed. It is there aoma
30 yards wide, but the banks are easy and firm, the bottom stony, and tbe^
stream usually insignificant. After entering the gorge the river has to be
frequently crossed, its bed being from 20 to 30 yards wide, the stream small
and rapid, bottom stony, and the banks nowhere difficult. It seems, howeveiyi
to be capable of swelling to a depth of 5 or 6 feet in the rains. The roMi
follows one bank or the other all through the defile, and is hilJy and broken,
in places degeueraling into a rocky mountain pathway. The defile varies
considerably in width from 50 yards, in places, to 500 yards. It is abf>ut 2i
miles long, with a general forward beiaring of 13S°. The rocks are precipitous
where the defile is narrow, and several hundred feet high, while the broader
places are very Iiilly and broken. The average gradient of the river-bed is
about 1° 30'. The road in the defile may bo pronounced passable for camels
in ordinary weather, and with engineering mittht lie easily made good, and, if
bridged, practicable and e-isy in any weather, tliedifliculties being insignificant.
At 5i miles the Sagarband Pass is reached. This is a narrow entrance at the
top of the defile,after passing which th« roiul entws the Sagar country, a kind
of valley in the hills, running [mrallel to the Zi\x<jh\x'n range, but presenting
as wild an appearance as can he well imagined. It is one mass of smMJl,
oonical clay hills, amid which the road winds, following the Iliver Sagar, which
it constantly crosses. The River iSagar i.s a small mountain-stream, with a
sandy bottom and soft clayey banks, which are in places steep and several
feet high. It is usually dry, but is capable of becoming an awkward torrent.
The windings of the road are so sharp and frequent that it is impossible to i
beyond a few yards at a time. Towards the head of the stream the road
enters a narrow gorge some 10 fet't across, the ascent, which is usually slight,
btong here considerable. After this it crosses a small valley about half-a-mile
E. to w., and a mile N. to B., at the end of which is the UfcAmu^Adai Ko'tat.
'ITie ascent of the ko'ta! is very steep for the last hundred yards, the angle
being about 16°, and the road, which has been hitherto soft and easy, though
hiUy and winding, is here stony and Loil. The total distance from the
Sagarband Pass to the U/ir/anuv/'dai Pass is 4 miles, and the general forward
bearing 100". After the ku'tal is crossed, the road turns southwards 5 miles^
bearing forward 60° to A'madti'ii, a largish A'dizai (Ka'kar) village in a lumpy
valley called the I(?Abarg, The road here presents no difficulties. Taken as
a whole, the road may be called fair, and could be easily made good, but could
be used only when the country was quite settled, as the excessively broken
character of the Ss^r country would render it a sure hiding-place for thieven,
dacoits, and bad characters. Water is not lacking fti route. At A'mndu'n it
is good, but salt and unwholesome in the Sagar and brackish in the GnrA:Aai
defile.
The country passed in the Gwa'l Yalley is similar to that before passed and
described. The I'sa' Kfm'l village of Wulgai, 24 miles, and Kha'nai, 6 miles
distant, are to be seen across the valley in the Pioakai ilills from the entrance
of the GurMai DeBIe, Between Gwa'l and Wulgai is to be seen a mountain-
path leading to Nu'a Ba'za'r in the I'ishin. The Qur/c/iai Defile, where narrow,
nas very high precipitous sides of grt;y limestone rocks, and in the wider places
it is broken up by small hills of soft red and grey clay. A path leads off to I
the right to Quelta, about half-a-mile from the Sagarband Pass. The Sagar
country is principally composed of these low, clayey hills, and in places of
soft disintegrated slate or ehale. The soil varies greatly in colour — white,
grey, yellow, and a bright red in the clay, and bluish m the slate hilla. Trecaf
are scarce, except on. the snowy slopes ol Mts. Pi'l, Maugal, and ZaryAu'n, vaA\
Second Column of the Tal—Ckdtia'li Field Forat in 1879. 241
the overgrowths are rs before observed : no nigna of cHltivatiou anywhere, or
even of huniAn habitation. Despite its broken character, the country is not
difficult to sketch, the essential Ix-arings being obtainable from any of the
higher points in it. Mt. Takatii' presents a magnificent front, and Mts.
Zwffku'n, Mangal, Pi'l, Surana', and Sur^/iwncd can all be seen clearly from
the UA/imujAdai Purs. Beyond Iho Ko'tal, 2i miles, btMirin^ 145^ across tlio
Iy/*barg Valley lies the Pa'ni'zai (Ka'kar) village of Bra'hima'ii. From this a
road is said to lead across the 2^7<awar PlHin, duj^iribed as being like the Pishin
In size and appearand', into the Marri (Bolo'ch) country. l"'roin A'niadu'a
(A'dizai, Ka'kar) a road leads throush a jiass to Kiidi'n, on thcTal — Cho'tia'ii
road from Balozai Ka'rt'z, via Go'gai, 5 miles, and PioMf^ai, 20 miles on.
The whole country in these mountains is held by Pu'ui'zai Ku'kars, but in
A'madu'n there seems to be a considerably mixed population.
The barometer at Owa'l is 24*3, and at UA7imu£//idai Ky'lal 23'4, which
makes the latter place level with Balozai Ka're'z.
Sixth Stack.
Balozai Ka're'z to raaf Each, flj miles. General forward bearing, 108°.
U^tli March.
The road runs along the bed of the liiverRoM for a mile-and-a-half, the bed
of which is broad and stony, but the stream usually iuBiguificaiit. It then
goes through some cultivated laud for uljout a mile, when it enters the hills,
after which it is gooilaiid clearly marked, but the ascent is steepLsh, about .34^.
At al)OUt 3J miles a small gap in the hills is reached, and the road follows the
bed of another stream, the River Z.-ulu'u for 2 miles. It is winding and atony,
but nowhere difficult, though the ascent is again considerable. After this a
graveyard and some huts, at a jflace called Mo'sai, are reached, being the
highest [loint on the road, which then descoivds again to the bed of the Kiver
Ho'd, running over undulating swridstone hills for 2 miles. Tlio river is here
still broad, but the stream is small and the banks caay. After this the road
either follows the river-banks or its bed to the camping-ground, which is alxiut
half-a-mile beyond the village of I'sjif Kaoh. The gnidieut of the bed of the
lliver Ro'd is about 1 in 80. There are no engineering difficulties cm this road,
and, considering the mouvitainous nature of the country traversed, it is good,
and, excepting that the rivers passed through are liable to floods, it should be
passable at any time.
There is nothing fresh to be noticed about the country passed through in
the Dof Valley. The villages i)a&sed en route were Dilsho'r (Ba'zai, Ka'kar)
and De'wad (Mehtnrzai, Ka'kar). After the hills are entered, the country is
hilly, but not J^articularly broken. The soil and bills are mostly composed
of soft clayey shale. The overgrowths are as usual, and there are no trees.
In the gorge of the Kiver Zadu'n, varying in width from 100 to 800 yards, the
country is broken, and the hills somewhat bare, their appearance being very
much that of those in Sagar^ above described, and the same remarkable occur-
rence of red, yellow, and grey clays is to be observed. There are a few trees
about. At and after Mo'sai the hills as far as the lUver Ito'd become undu-
lating, and are apparently of sandstone, and trees become more plentiful. Up
to this point no cultivation is to be seen after the hills are entered. The
gorge or valley of the Iliver Ro'd is about half-a-mile broad, the country here
becoming mountainous nither than hilly. There is considerable cultivation
apparently of wheat and Indian corn, along the river-side by means of ku'ls.
The principal points noticeable are the trouble taken to keep tiie river in its
place by means of atone groins aud walls, and the pUmting of mIIIows along
VOL. XLDL U
these, by which means arable land is reclaimed from the river; and the change
in the structure of the houses. The wulU are of mtid over etono from tlic
river-bed, and the root is of thatch, plastered over with mud. Their appear-
ance is much rougher thau th-it of the huts iu thu Pishin. There are a good
many fruit-trees (apricots and ]ilntiis) alwut tlie villsiues, and trees on the hill-
sides. The villages paiwieil are I'.saf Kach (Sharaozai, Ka'kor) and Ko'sb Each
(Ba'zai, Ka'kar), near each other. They are not large.
I'saf Kach camping-ground, 7400 feet, is iu a wide place in the gorge of the
river, overlooked by high hills. There is room for about a brigade. The soil
is sandy, but the natural drainage is good. A ruad runs from this point up
the River I'iuakai, via A'madu'n and Sa;:ar, to Qiietta. From the hills at the
back of the camp a view southwards of Mis. Takatu', ilangal, Zarghu'o,
and Ma'r/iwij is to be obtained. Mt. I'i'l is not far to the s., and a peak Is
pointed out a.s Chafiar, to tlic b., but this is doubtful. Mt. Surf/Awand is
to bo seen to the e, and Mt. Kand to the N. The iuhabitauts arc all Ka'kars,
principally of the yara'ngzai section.
Seventh Stage.
From I'saf Kach to lapira i?a'gha. IC miles. General forward bearing, 116®«
25th March.
The road follows the winding bed of the River Ro'd almost as iaras the n«h
Ko'tat, 12 miles. Its general direction is here easterly, but there are two
sharp tunis to the b. at the 4th und 7th miles. The river-l>e<l is stony, but
nowhero diflicult, and the stream iiiaignificant. The gorjie of tjw stream is at
first alwut yOO yards wide, narrowing to 400yards at the 7th to the 8th mile,
aud the hills on either aide lofty. At the 10th mile the hills and the river
V^egiu to disappear, and the country to get more open. As the Ush Pasa is
neared, the road passes through a lumpy somewhat liroken country, but \a
easy. As far as this Iho road in ordinary weather is, for a mountain-road, easy
and gootl, the ascent being slight, alwul 1 in 65. The ascent of the kotal is
short and not difficult. When this is crossed, the descent is somewhat sharp
down tlie bed of a narrow movmtsin-stream, the River Ush, winch the road
follows for a mile and then nius for two miles down the bed of the River \kh-
barg soutliwards at a considerable incline, llie river-bed is stony, and a1>out
100 yards broad, and the stream slight After about 3i miles from the Uah
Pass, the Ispira B%/>a plateau is seen to the right, almost due w., and a
detour from the road onwards, which runs nearly due e., is made for half-a-
milc to obtain a camping-ground. The road is nowhere difficult, being hilly
only at the Ush Pass, and at the points between the River Ush and the River
I/:Abarg. Guides, howevex, are necessary, as it would he by no means eas)' to
tind the way without them, and wrong turns might easily be taken in the
Ro'd gorge as well as in the more open hilly country above it. It should be
reinemljered that the River Ro'd is liable to floods over 6 ft deep, and that the
River U'^barg also bears signs of being deeply flooded at times. Good water is
plentiful overjwhorei, being wanting only for n mile about the Ush I'ass.
There is room for a brigade, or even a division, to encamp in some open grotind
at Sra^Aar, about a mile beyond Bhudaud, and smaller bodies coold easily
encamp in several places en roide.
A series of small hamlets rather than villages are passed in the Ro'd goiige,
all within a mile or ho of each other, as far as the ninth mile ; they belong to
all kjmla of sections of the Kak'ars, but sear Kudi'n up the River Sa'bonai about
3 miles, is Saj/Al'n, a Sayad village.
Four streams, the Rivers Wari'a, SalMnai, Wargu, and Shodand, run iuto
Second Column of the Td—Cho'tiali Field Force in 1879. 243
the River Ro'd on the right bank, but none on the loft. After the ninth mile,
at Shiidand, there are no signs of cultivation, or even of human habiUitioD.
The country at first is as b'jfore described— lofty hills on either side of the
gorge of the Kiver Ro'd. The main differences noticeable l)eiDg the larj^e number
of willows and fruit-treea about the villages and along the river-banks. Cul-
tivation in terraces is considerable — wheat, millet, Indian com (maize), barley
(and ? oats al.so) and lucerne, being raised. The practice of reclaiming laud
by groins run in to the river-bed before described is to bo observed also hero.
Sheep and goats also alwuud. The houses or huts l)ecome rougher as the
gorge is ascended, degenerating into mere grass and wixxi huta, the sides of
which are sometimes 8coo|»ed out of the hill-side. The inhabitants are Ka'kars
of all Bection.s, bat Pa'nizais predominate. As the greater heiglits are reached,
the hills become wooded, and, after Shudand is passed, the country becomes &n
nninh.<ibited mountain tract, ])rodncing only timber. Besides the usual over-
growths, plum (be'r) trees, junipers, and conifers (proliably cedars and
cypresses) are to l>e seen along the hill-sides, and a bush like a rose. A
broom-like plant also grows here which the natives use as medicine, smoking
it like tobacco.
A grand view of the snowy range of Mt, Ma'zAwii is obtained to the 8. from
many jjoints, and on the whole the country is pleasantflr to tuck upon than is
usual in Afgiianistan, despite its wildness. The cLimalo at this time of year
(spring) is charming.
Tlic hills appear to be comj>ose<l, as usual, of sandstones and clays of various
colours, slate and shale.
l^pira RaV'a, 7800 ft.., is merely the name of a phitean in the wild hilly
country to the n. of Mt. MaiAwu. There is room for a brigade to encamp
with comfort. No supplies can he prociu'cd, and there is no habitation within
miles of the place. Water is obtained near from the River ho'ghan. There is a
fine view.
Eighth Stage.
Ispira l?a'gha io "Khvm'm, 13} miles. General forward bearing, 86*.
26th March.
The POftd runs back for a mile along the f^ld track, after which it runs
straight on due k. thnmgh the narrow mountain valley of the River To'pobarjA
for half a mile till the To'ifoharr/Zi Tass is reachc*!. The ko'tal is barely per-
ceptihle, and the ascent in very slight. After this the road runs along the
vadley, or rather upland plateau, drained b^' the River Mo'mand at the foot of
Mt. SpinsA/Mir. The ascent is gradual as far as the Nangalu'na Tass (8500 ft.},
which is four mites out. After passing this, the road gradually descends in an
E. direction ^owu the river known successively as the Nangalu'na, O'bushtkai,
and KfiWA'fA. Like the ascent, the descent is gradual and easy. The road is
throughout easy, gocxl, and well marked. It is somewhat Mly and rocky
about the passes and river-heads, but would nowhere give difficulty.
The country passed through is at first hilly and fairly open, and in general
api^arance like that describt^d about Ispira Ra'jAa. After the To'pobar*//*
Pass there is a widish hilly plateau for a couple of miles, and just about the
Nangalu'na Pass the country is broken and hilly, and somewhat rocky. After
this second pass there is a wide plateau, with curious low flat-topped hills
running across it n. and 8. This plateau is bounded by the tipinsA/iar,
Surlo', and fiZtargai ranges to the 8., and by the Nangalu'na Hills and the hill
lands of GAobargai to the n., beyond which lies the ^Ao'b Vallcv in the
It 2
244 TEHrPLE** Account of the Country traversed hy the
diBtancc. To tlio E. is the rciuarkaldc tabk-Iike Lill Mt. Syn'jgai, and the
Chinija'n <?/mr Hills.
The river-beds are broad and stony aa usnal, luit have a slight gradient.
They arc usually dry, and, thou^lj the springs arw not far ajjart, wat«r is
rather scarce. Tlicrc aro no sifins of habitnlion till the eighth mile is reached,
■where there is a graveyanJ at Nasrat, n«ir which, in the hills, hut not visible,
is a village calle«i Ra'dingzai (Duniar, Ka'kar). At ten milea is the village of
O'bushtliai (Dumar) on the road-eide — a wretched little hamlet. Soon after
this, signs of wheat-cultivation hy means of ku'ls and kare'ze's arc api>arent, artd
in the hills are the villages of Gurmai and Kurbi (ZiiiApe'l, Ka'kar). There
is a Y&t\\, said to he bad, leading from Gurmai, fyast Ml. Surj/iwand, as far as
the Mchtarzai country alxmt Mt. Kand. The inhabitants are oil Ka'kaT8,and
h.ave a wild, 8<|ualid appearance. After the eighth mile trees begin to di»-
nppear, and the coiuitry to bear that treeless appearance so noticeable in
AfghanisLiii. The overgrowths are a>^ usual. The composition of the hills is,
as iiHunl, of clays and sandstones of sorts, but gneiss and schist are also found
in places. About ATAwa'ra there are a good many fossils. There is a fine
view of the snowy ranges of Ma'sAwO, SpinsAAar, Surio', and /f/iargai to the
8., and to the n., of Nanalu'na and the broken country of <i/tob«rgai. Mt.
Sya'jgai is very yicculiar, and wmiM bo a landmark from any point. The
country is pleasant to look at, and the climate now (spring) charming. Mta.
Suk/7/avntia, Che'sha'*!, Uhiraja'D Qhw, and MatitAilar are also viaible, besides.
those mentioned alrcidy.
/T/twa'ra, 7900 ft., no village — a convenient spaciotis cncamping-grouud oti
the banks of the Itiver A'Awa'ra. No supplies, tut water is suifficient.
NiSTH Staqe.
KXvtfa'ta to Chimja'n. Gi miles. General forward bearing, 89°. 27th March.
The rood follows the line of the variously named river mentioned in the
last stage, and now called the Chinija'ii. It runs along its bod, now broad,
or along the valley on its banks. Where it follows the bed it is stony, but
easy and level, the descent buiug almost imixTceptiblc, and in the valley it i&
sometimes a little hilly. It is good and easy throughout. There is water in
places iu the river-becl, but it is nowhere troublcsoinc. The country presents
the same treeless, water-scoured, stony nppearance frequently noticed l^efore.
The overgrt>wtb3 arc the same aa usual — catntjlthoni tuid southcruwood, and
fruit-trees about the village. Cultivation is carried ou in i^tehes by the river-
banks. At this time of year (spring) there ia green wheat to be seen nlvjut ;
barley and Indian corn are filso raised. The country is thinly populated by
7iAkh\yo'{ Ka'kars and some Dnmar Ka'kars, and only one village was passed
en route, Sa'la'^/i (ZaA7i[)e'l). The huts arc lietter, being the same as those in
the lower lU/d Valley alwut I'saf Kach. Cattle, sheep, and goats are to be
seen feeding in pLices, and, as okserved in the Eo'd Valley, there aro signs of
embanking the river to keep it witliin itjs bed.
The valley becomes wider and more 0|ien as the river flows dowaward, and
there ia a line view down towards Smalan, k.s.e, The most remarkable
feature being the isolated Mt. Sya'jgai above mentioned, which stands out in
the nnddle of the v:diey.
Chimja'n. 7400 ft., j.f a ZaA/ipe'l (Ka'kar) village of some size at the foot of
the Chimja'n iSh-ar Hills. Supplies are fair, but limitcil ns to choice — bhoosa,
firewootl, grass, lucerne, sheep, and goats, btit hardly anything else. A rood
leads N. from this, via the Zay/du'n Pass, to the ZAo'b Valley, and another k.k.,
along the valley to Dargai and China'li. The can) ping-ground ia along the
river opposite (s.) the village. It is sp.icious, hut very stony.
TmaD ExcuRHoy. Chimja'n toxnarda Zho'b Viilley. Pa'lkai Ko'taf, 8 miles.
General forward beariug, 341.° 28tli March.
ITiia excursion wns imdorlaken to ascertain the roads leading; to the Zho'h
Valley fmra Cliioija'u. The road leails at first thronah the Za/jhhx'a Pass for
u mile. The 1'as.s is a narrow trsij) between the Ba'sbal and Chitnja'n fc'Aar
Peaks and is ahuost duo n. of Ciiinija'n. It ia about a rnilc long, being formed
by the Zaj/ilu'n Uivfir. Tlic roaJ follows tlie river-l)ed, which is about 50 to
100 yards wide ami very stony, but Ihe ascent is slijiht and the stream small.
The general forward bearing is about 335°. Afttr the Pass the Tarakai
Valley is reachtd — nn undulating plain about two miles wide between almost
jiarallel lines of hills runnin;; B.w, to U.K. Those to the n. are called sticcos-
8iv(!ly eastwards, Pla'uj/iara and (VAwand, those to the a. Zwaisha. Au
npiierently .i^ootl nwl leads to the ^Ao'b Valley, iiast the WaltoT Peak in a n.e.
direction (ulxjut i^fj'^). There arc two Ka'kar villa;;cs, A'Awai ( A7iwaidA'dzai) and
Guudaiuarai (Mursia'n^^zai) en route ntar tins hill. A jeithway leads X. to
the Chnniiai (Ka'kar) country ]Mist the (?Awand Peak. The roail on to
Hindu* l\a.'tjk in the Zhub Vallc}' leads through another ]ia.ss or gorge I'ormod
by the River Za//Alu'n in the Pla'n^/iara tlills, called the Kjii'r Taugai Pass.
The bed and gory;e are here rather wider than before, and the road easy, with
a slight ascent. It is almut half a milo long, and the p;entral forward bearing
'20'^. After this a shut-in hilty valley is reached, about a mile wide, between,
hilly ranjies almost parallel running; w. to E. Through this the road follows
{ he KiverZa^r/ilu'u at a general forward Ijearinj; of 322^. Uthen jMUises through
a third short and widish gorge, the Tu'r Tangai Pass, in the Siirmastaili Hills,
at a general forward bearing of 330", and then ofKmsonto a third hilly valley,
about half a mile wide, callcfl the La'ndai Siirai Valley, l>etwecn tho
Surmaataili and Mali'v Tarkai Ilills, but tliu country now as.sumes a more
moimtainousaiiix-araucc, and tiie ai^ccnt of the river-bed is sharper. A road
leads w. from the La'ndai Sunii Valley to tlifMo'inand 8nra'i' country, to the
V, of Mt. Suriy/nvand, in the direciion of Ml. Kand, which it probably eventu-
ally reaches. After this the country becomes a mass of mountains, through
which tho road winds, following the river-bed, at a general forward Ix^aring of
305", as far ns the Pa'lkai Pass, S40O ft., wliich is reached in 8 miles. From
this a glimijse of the Zfto'b Valley is obtained abont 10 miles distant, and
Ijcarings were -.'ot on to Hindu' IJaV* (Surgarai) and Warghas (Mchtarzai),
Ixjth it» tlio Z/io'b Valley, Mt3. JSurv/amnd, Kami, and Ma'sAwg, besides
lipiusAr/iar and tho.se to the s , are visible from the I'n'Ikai Pass. At the top
of the Pass is Tlarai Skobai, a graveyard and holy place. The road is as far
as the Ko'tal not bad, but it is not uuite<l as a lino fur a highroad or railway.
The country passed through is remarkable for the five almost parallel lines of
hills crossed. Tho rocks api^-ar to Iw principally limestone and trap, and in
the gorge the strata is very faulty. The whole district has a wild, bare, and
rocky appearance, and the hills are in pluccs precipitous and rugged, while tbu
valleys are broken, hilly, and covered with stones. There are no trees, and
the overgrowths arc scanty — grass in tufts, camelthorn, southernwowl, and
dwarf tamarisks. Water is scarce, and human habitations few. A few gosita
and catt5e find grazing in the lower lands. After the La'ndai Sural Valley the
country is rugged and mountainous, but Ibeyoud the Pa'lkai Pass tho hills
nssumc more tho appearance of rolling down, the more noticeable jwints being
the Peaks Tung Tot, Suriak, and Malewa. The inhabitants are principally
Z&khjn'i Ku'kars.
246 Temple** Account of the Country traversed hi/ the
Testh Stage.
From ChimjoL'n to Baia'nui. 22 miles. General forward bearing, 12CP.
20th March.
The road leads close under Mt. Sya jjs»i, ranning along the bed of the rivw
80 variously named, but now called i«nnaneutly the liivcr Kach, pout uome low
hilla, caUeil the Zfita Hills, at the dM of Mt. tJya'jgai. It is here good, dinicf
and easy, but a little rough aud stony ia the river. After passing Mt. Sya'j
7 miles out, it nins in ii 8.E. direction (115°) straight across the Sho'r Valleyj
towards the ZAarubiuid Peak, which is remihed at the 13lh mile. The Itiver
Kaoh is crossed at the 10th mile, here a brtad torreut-bed n quarter of a luilo
across, but griving no trouble. The road so far ia fairly level and easy
throuiihout, though stony. There are a few ea.sy nullah-l)eds about Mt.
Sya'jgai and the hills to be crossed. After reaching; and ]>a8sing the Zharu-
bacd Peak the road runs actoBS a small valley called the Mzami, in a more
aouthcm dlR'ction (135°), to some spring called the Mzarai Springs. It is here
Btony and hilfj, and crosses frequent nullahs and streams, several, especially
the Kivcr GAwa*A, have bn<l btinks, aud would, when flooded, bo formidab
, obstacles. After the Mkju^I Kprin!:^ art) passed tho road leads over a amatl
and easy ko'tal through Ihe 67iu!to'i Hills, across a hilly valley, and tlien over
another similar ku'tal through the Mzarai llills into the Baia'uai Valley, which
it follows in an e. direclioii for a couple of miles, and tlien, by a shaqi turn 8.
through the liaia'nai Hills, to the village of P.aia'nai. After passing the
Mzarai Springs the road is bod, stony, hilly and ru|i;ged, passing uuuiberluss
jiullah-beds. It is, in fact, a fair-weather road, aud it is doubtful whether it
.would be practicable in bad weather. This latter jmrt of the country is called,
aa A whole, the Baia'uaj Pass.
Tli(> country passed is singularly barren of human life, anil has a deserted
appearance, there b*nnp no signs of cultivation anywhere en route. Water
alao-ia scarce, being obtainable only at the Fla'n, Mziirai, and Uchsaha'n Springs,
but there are no villages by them. The Sho'r Valley is a wide and somewhat
fiat valley, about 10 miles wide, but quite Irnrc, except of tufta of grass and
camelthom, and very stony. To the n.e, runs the Sungalu'D Valley, some-
what similar to it. In this there arc two villages, Dargai and Chiua'li (both
Za^Ape'l Ka'kar), about which there is some cultivation. Kach, an Amakzai
(Kaluir) village, lies among some hills to the e. llie country in the Mzarai
Valley is very similar, hut there is more grass there. The Mzarai, GAulto'i,
and Baia'nai Hills are of whitish limestone and the country through the
Baia'nai Pass is wild and rugged and much cut into by nullahs, the bods of
which are full of limcslone chips from the hills. There is a good deal of
gross in the Diua'nai Valley, alj»o barberries, olives, camulthorn, aud a few
trees also aUmt the slopes of the hills iu the .Sho'r Valley. There is swampy
aud green liuid about the Mzarai Springs. The glacis olieerved before is to
be remarked in the Sho'r Valley. The peculiar feature of the country is the
number of well-worn tracks and jMithways met with. These are very
numerous, aud run iu all directions, as will l:e seen by tlie maps; they give
tbo country an appearanc'S of having on amount of tniQic over it not war-
ranted by its sparse population. A good many arc said to lead to places
where wood is got in the hills. The parallel nm of the hills noticed to the s.
is aUo to be observed to the a. of the Sho'i Valley, There are line views of
the many hilla surrounding the v-alley-s from all points.
Baia'nai, GoOO feet, is a sm.ill Dum.'tr (Kakar) mud fort and village, ia a
narrow secluded valley running w. to e, into the Bo'rai Valley, over which
there is a fine view towards the Slie'rkoi Peak and the Koba'r Hills. Supplies
I
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 247
are next to none, but water is iikntiful wad good. The camping-groutid is
spacious but stony, oiid its natural dniinago is good. Tiie position is some-
what dangerous fur troo]>s in un enemy's country.
Baia'nai to Ningand.
Elevesth Stage.
9i miles. General forward bearing, 80*.
30th Marck.
The road leads nearly e, over the (?/iazgai Valley, a rolling hilly valley, at an
eaay general downward j^radientfand, thouiili stony, it is good. About 2 miles
out a little cultivation at a liamliet called (i7ii'r/i:/(\va'(Na'oiuii, Ka'kar) is found,
the wheat being now (sj)ring) green, and a little beyond this the River Dargi' is
crossed, a narrow stream with stony bed and steep lianks. Alter this the road
follows a hollow part of the valley in a more northerly direction, till the
Kiver Knch is again met a mile from Niuga'ud — now a wide stony river-bed
some GOO yards in breadth. The left bank is rather steep, but would give no
difficulty, and tlio river shows no signs of ever rising beyond 4 feet. The road
may be cjdicd good, but u guide is necessary, as there arc sudden and deep
nulliths ruuiuDg into the Kiver Knch from the low hills in the valley.
The country ijasscd is somewhat open, and the overgrowths arc the same as
usual, but thicker, and the lower laiids seem capable of e.isy cultivation.
There are no trees except on the hill-sides. Ilie population, Utma'n Khe'ls,
is very sparse, the only village seen en route being Sarkai Zangal, but there
are signs of there having lieea a thicker populatiou formerly. Numerous
pHthways lead acro-ss the valley to the mountains oa either side, said to be
used by shepherds only. Cattle, sheep and goats are to be seen grazing;
ku'la and ka're'zcs also exist. The (7/jazgai Valley is bounded by the
Samsar Hills tt> the a., and the Naraii/Abarg and Koha'r to the n., behind
which run the ypin Ohvuizh Hills iu a parallel direction. There is a road to
Kach via the gor<;e of the lliver Each in the Spin (//iwasA Hills, another to
G/»urat vid the Koha'r Pass, and a third to the Zho'h Valley eastward viii
Bor'ai Chap. The climate is much warmer than hitherto.
Ninga'nd, 5700 feet, is an Utma'n Khe'I village on the Kiver Kach. Supplies
are scarce, but water is plentiful and good (rum ku'ls. There is a large and
good space for a camp, and a fine view over the I5o'rai Vnllcy. The main
feature to notice is the change in the houses. Every hou.sc is a fort iu itself,
and the village has, liesides, a small sqiiare fort with four small towers. The
houses are of mud, with Ihatcliwl roofs covered over with mud, and there is a
mud tower at one end. The height of the houses is about G feet and the
towers about 12 feet.
Ifinga'nd to WaTta'gui,
Twelfth Stage.
12i miles. General forward bearing, 110".
Slat March.
The road leads off 8.B., following the direction of the River Kach through
cultivated land, and is good and firm, till a swamp (probably not permanent),
formed by the overflowing of a ku'l, is reached, about 3 miles out. Tiiis is
avoided by going into the river-bed. From that point to Shaka're'z via
Shaida'n — a burial-ground — the road runs partly through cultivated land It
la there pleasant walking in fine weather, other^visc the road is stony as usual.
From Shaka're'z to old Wuria'gai it is good, and from tliat point on it runs
through cultivated land. It is easy and good throughout, and the downward
gradient hardly perceptible. The cullivat«l ground would of course be trouble-
I
I
248 Temple's Account of the Country traversed hj the
some in wet weather. The River Hantiraba'r, a browi, stony, dry torrent-bod,
is crossed after Old Waria'gai, The left Ixtink is rather steep. The road is said
to run parallel to that runniug from Dain'nai via Smalan and Baiy/m'wa to Tal.
The cunutry jasaetl through has lost ll»e depopulated aj)pearai)ce so remark-
able in tbe upiier Irtada. There is extensive cultivation carried on all over the
valley and alongside the rivers, and ihc soil ajijx'ars to be .[;oo*l and carefully
cultivated. Wheat, hurley, Indian corn, and millet, are thecrof* grown. The
67jazgai Valley cxtcnils aa far as the Wana'gai Peak, and from that point
coniniences the Ro'rai Valley, rnnnin;^ up in an eAstem direction. The former
is some G, and the latter some 15 miles bread. Aliout Wana'gai Fort, aad
within 10 miles, there is a cluster of villages; those on the River Kach being
Utma'n AVie'l, and those on the Itivcr Hauuinba'r Sandar A7«e'l — viz., oa the
1-liver Kach, Nunia'ra', Jalka're'z, Slinka'rez, Pio'dii'n, Lashtai, Arbasi'D,
BaA^^ma'; on the Tlivcr Harminl>a'r, Wana'gai, and Lhc c.lu.slt'r of three called
collectively A7ianliai,and Zaiigiwa'l. Further lip the lio'rai Valley aro Dargu
and Shabozai. Tin.' \alleys, jus regards ve;;c£alion,have the same appearance, but
grass is more plentiful and better. The glacis about the hills is still observ-
able, and these api^ar to be of limestone and vcrj' broken in strata. There
are a great many fruit-trees about the villages, ami vvillows ({xiUard) about ths
stream. Water is abumdant, and through Old Wa;ia'gai tbero is a purgling
brook running. Ku'ls and ka're'ze's are met with iu several phices. Js umeroua
tracks run acros.-* the valleys. One from Ninga'nd goes through the G'Aobargai
Hills I'l'd the Dargjit Springs to Siuza'wiii in the Lwa'ra Valley on the Tal
liuKil, and another from Shaka'rfc'z imu Ku't rind tbe Sho'r Pass to Baj/A.Vwa
on the Tal r<»iito. Old Waria'gai is an A'li'zai (iSanrlar A'Ae'l, Ka'kar) village
deserted 5 years ago on account of a tribal quanx;l. The climate is much
warmer than of lue, and the Mason more forward. Much of the wheat nud
grass is green, and several of the fruit-treos in blossom, nnd the flowers all
lioginning to cuino out already (end of March). The inhnbitanta have a
Mo'ch cast of feature, and areof amucli less wild appearance than of late, and
their houses arc letter; but still every bouse is a tort, showing an unsettled
stale of atTairs in llie country. The hnuses aro of mud, and nearly all have
towers, and generally also a courtyard in which is cultivation, Tiie grain is
storeti ill small towerlike mud Blruclurcs on low piles.
Waria'gai, 49rX) fijct, is a small village near the Wana'gai Fort, a square
ruineil fort of some size, with numerous towers. The cluster of villages called
A7»ankai is aUj close by, so that sup(ilics could be made plentifuL The
camping-ground, though spacious, is un cultivated lields.
Thiuteesth Stage.
Waria'gai to Sliaran. IG miles. General forward bearing, 90'^. lat April.
The road runs along the Bo'rai Valley in a generally due e. direction, partly
through cultivated Ltnd, and junrtly along the glacis of the Tor A7iaiz«' Hills,
and is there stony, otherwise it is jileasiuit and easy. Alwut the beds of the
Rivers Tor ATtaize', Da'h, and Lo'rai, the ground is somewhat broken.
Besides these streams several nullah-hca^^U have to be crossed, giving a little
trouble, and also numerous ku'K which are troublesome to camels. There \a
a sli^'jit fiscent for the first 5 miles, but after that a steady descent all the
way. Near the village of Navgivya'la, the River Lorai has sleep and nasty
banks and a narrow Ixxl. The country passed through i.i the Bo'rai Valley,
which is from H to 10 miles wide, nmning in an easterly direction, bonndeti
by the ^5piTl, Waha'r, and Ku'rti' Hills to the 6., and Waria'gai, Tor A7jaizc
ami Mu'r Hills to the s. It is full of viUnges of the Sandur A'l^e'l Ea'kais,
eome of whicli are large ami prosperous, such an Dargai and Shabozai, and is
cxtenaively cultivated. Fruit-trees are very numerous, and water is plentiful
everywhere. In the uncultivated [arts there is a quantity of Dn'b grass in
places, and camelthom and southernwood are ahundiint ; dandeliooa also aro
to be seen in quantities, but, except where |>laatcd, trees are, as usnal, absent.
Parts of the valley show signs of water-scour, and in places the ground is
soniewliat cut up by nullahs. On the whole, however, it is the most proB-
peruus part of Afghaaistan I have yet seen. The villages aro collectionB of
well-boilt fortified houses of considerable size, and extend over a large extent
of ground. Orchards are to be seen round each, nnd in some plixces largo
trees, and at this time of year (April), when the wheat is sreen, the villages
look really pretty. There is an air of Buhstantial comfort and prosjierity about
them not often seen in the East. The inhabitants seem well off and oontenteil,
and supplies are as much as could be wished for. The cultivation is cartfulty
carried on, the fields being allowed to lie fallow for some years in their turn,
the laud being carefully ploughed and the seutl put iu in drills ; and I saw a
kill carried under tho bed of the lUver Tor A'Aaize' by a syplion, showing cou-
hiderable skill iu construction. A mad leads through the Tor A'Aaize' Pass,
via the Churma Springs, through tite Awazai (Iva'kars) and Aktarzai (Ka'kara)
country to the Zho'h ValJey, and two roads up the valley to the Mu'sa A'Ae'l
country, that to the N, via the Me'ud P;iss, reiiched in four marches, and that
to the 8., via the Tala'o Pass to Ba'za'r, in fmir marches. This last mad ia
said to lead Ui Dc'ra 0/ia'zi' KIia'h, in ei^ht marches. Both tinjsc roads aro
said ti» be Ixid, A road leads 8. through the ILinumba'r Pass to the Lu'ni
Kht'l country, and tlience to Tal, iu three marches. 'J'bis valley was the
acene of one of Na'dir Sha'A's expeditions ; and he has left behind him a fort
called Sbahr-i-Na'dir, in the middle of the valley near Sharan, on an artificial
mound, on the same principle as that at Quetti.. It is of some size. Small
pieces of goo<J foreign pottery are to Ix? found in quantities all over tho valley,
which are said to be also relics of Na'dir's occupation. A houso in the Bo'r&i
Valley is a fortified structure, surrounded by a wall about 12 feet high, and
covers aliout an acre of ground. There are usually several towers to it, and
one door. Within the outer walls are genemlly a quantity of trees, and tho
house (>robably contains a whole faiuily. At any rate there are a quantity of
people iu each house. Generally also there is a low 3-feet wall, cxtuuding
round the fields, belonging to the house. Three or four such houses frequently
constitute a village.
Sharan, 4300 teet, is a Bo'rai village of the usual type, but not large. It i«,
however, close to a large cluster of other villages, of which there are a great
number in the valley, 27 being counted from a small hill near Sharan.
Su]>plie« of all sorts are abundant, and prices arc fairly cheaji, and tho {ieoi)lo
willing to sell. Water is good and plentiful. Camping-grounds arc in culti-
vated lands, but spacioiu.
FOURTEEKTH StAGK
Sharan to Ifanumba'r Pass. 12 miles. General forward bearing, 129^.
2nd April,
The road rans across fiat putt* for some distance, to China' Ko't, goln^
close under the fort. It then runs in a h.k. direction, jmst Waha'r ana
Naigwa'l, as far as the bilia forming the Hanumbii'r Pass, which are reached
* Putt is hard anu-dricd mud found in all the lower li^nda about Ccntnil iTidin,
or wherever tho sun beats with great force. These lunds are generally awampa
in rainy weather.
■280 TempleV Account of the Country traversed &v fJie
in about 9 milea, and after the pasa is entered it follows the beds of
several rivers joining there, taking a turn sonthwards to the camping-ground,
which is in the niidtllc of the pass. This road goes through various kinds oil
ground: putt, cultivation, and rough, stony, water- worn places. Several ka'U/
and ka're'zes are met en route ; and the bods of the Rivers Si'a'b, Marai^ i
Sihft'n, and I^o'ralai are crossed, or followed for some distance. The Si'a'b ha»
much broken ground about it, and bad banks ; the Marai has signs about it
of beia^ a violent torrent at times, running with a broad bed over tongli^meratc,
but its Danks are easy. The Siha'u has a broad stony bed, and the Lo'ralai,
into which the other three run, has a be<l about half-a-mile wide. There is
a considerable stream, nearly kneo-deep in the llivers Siha'n and LonilaJ,
but that of the other streams is insignificant. From the above deecriptiou it
will be seen that this road, though a good and pleasant one in tine, miuht
easily become bad, if not itnpmcticablo, in bad, weather. The country i^atscd i
through as far as the pass is the same as that of the previous stage, prosperous
and populous. lu the pass it is wild and billy, and much the same as in
other similar jwrts of Afghanistan. About the rivers, rushes, tall 0(«irce
grass and Du'b grass, in large quantities, tauiiu-isks, willows, and plum (Be'r)
trees are plentiful, iiud stunted trees grow in |iatchcs along the slopes ot' tlie
Gadiwa'r Hilln. The lianunrtbii'r Puss is a flat ojten ]iassagp, aliout a mile
wide, between the Gadiwa'r Hills and the Ku'ni' Peak, following the line of
tho Kiver Lo'ralai ; general forward bearing, 170°. It is the boundary line of
the Sandar Khe'l and the Lu'ci A^ic'L Chips of pottery are found through-
out the valley and tho pass, due either to the former passage of Ka'filas* this
way, or to Na'dir Slia'A's occn|»tion, as the inhabitants say. Roails run
through the pass and near its entrance to Me'A^ifcar (e.), which is reachetl in
two marches. Mc'AAtar is a point passed at present by Ka'filaa. The climate
is much, hotter thau hitherto, and the presence of putt itoints to a consider-
able summer heat. S|>ort, which is fairly good along the route, is especially
good in the Hanumba'r Pass. A boar was killed by the cavalry of the
advanced guard ou the march, and a hare was captured in the encamping-
gronnd.
Hanumba'r Pass ; merely an cncam ping-ground by the River Lo'ralai. The
ground is stony, but of large size. Water, grass, nod firewood are good aud
plcntilul. Hu supplies. There is a view e, through the pass, over some low
hills on to the hills in the Marri (Belu'ch) country.
Fifteenth Staue.
Hanumlu'r Puss to Tr/kh ICuniin Pass. IBJ milea. General forward
bearing;, 121° 4th April.
Tho roail nms along the River Lo'ralai, through wooded land for aboat
4 miles, and is easy on the whole. It is, however, broken in places, and some
torrent-beds have to be crossed ; and it would be very easy to lose the road
without a guide. After this the road runs through an open plain, called the
SaryAar Valley, for about 10 miles. It is here easy and good, lieiug on hard
putt meet of the way. A river-bed, the River La'lu', with steeiJish banks 1
and sandy bottom, is crossed about 8 miles out. After tlua the Tumbe'l II ills
are entered, and the road then becomes stony, hilly, and l»ad, frequently
crossing nullah-beda,somo of which have steep banks and deep 1k;<U, and there
is much broken ground about. The jxiasage through, or rather over, the hills
is known as the TriA-A Kuram Pass, and the general ascent up it is coosider-
* Colled Dsuolly, in English, caraTans,
Second Column of the Tal — Clio'tiali Field Force in 1879.
able. Tha road is, as at present used, essentially a fair-weather road, but so
far there seetnH no reason wLy a <;ood one should not l>u made. The advau-
taf;o is that, some 40 milta towards Vata'kri are saved by it. The disadvantage
is the want of water, but this want could be remedied by digging wells, water
lieing easily obtuned at no great depth iu many places.
The country passed throuii^b varies considerably : at first it is forest-land,
the trees being thick and close, mostly Bo'r and Ba'bul. There is no cultl-
vutiou or habitation now, but there are abundant signs of a former population.
When the forest is passed, a flat grassy valley, known as the Sarj/Aiir Valley,
is met, running in a general direction s.w., o[wn at the w. end towards the
Lu'ni Valley and Tal, and closed up apparently at the eastern. In the lower
lands there is a fairly thick tamarisk jungle. The River Lo'ralai takes a
shiirp turn to the w., alxiut 5 miles out, and, after it is left, there is no water
for nearly 15 miles, till the TriM Kuram .Springs are met, in the Tumbe'l
Hills- Vill.iges of the Lu'ni TlAc'I (Patba'us, but not Ka'knrs, and claiiuing
to be Dura'nis) are visible along the Rivet Lo'ralai to the w., but no sign of
present habitation is seen en route. Abundant signs of a former iwpulation
are seen everywhere in ruined villages, one of which, Taind A'Aa'n Ko't, is
still in gooil preservation. Former cultivation is visible in many places. It
is said local wars art- the cause of the depopiilatiou. Tite land nominally
belongs to the Lu'ni Kim'], biit the country is really debntablo land. After
the Tumbe'l Hills are entered, the country is wild and billy, but grassy and
fairly woixled. Be'r, Ba'bul, tamarisk and, a new feature, dwarf-palms, in
quantities. There ia no sign of human babitatrou in these hiils. 'Ibc Lu'ni
Valley to the w. is thickly jxipulated, and there are broad wcll-dcfine<i tracks
leading ».e. towards Viho'va, and thence to India. A noticeable point, as
indicative of a change of climate, are the enormous number of flies found.
Tnich Kuram Pass, 4100 feet. A campiug-ground in the Tumbe'l Hills by
some water. It is a hilly and irregular place, surrounded by hills of some
height, and is not a desirable situation for a military camp, on the whole.
There are no supplies ; wood and grass are plentiful,
StXTEKjKTH Stage.
2V»kli Kuram P<us to Tsamaulang. 16 miles. General forward bearing, 124°.
5th April.
The road on leaving; camp runs iu a s.B. direction for about a mile, when it
runs E. as far as the Ko'tal of theTriM Kuram Pass, which is passed in about
4 miles. It is here a good deal broken, and partly follovra the be<l of a moun-
tain-torrent. Tha pass itself is about 2 miles long, and the country in it is
broken and hilly. After the De'rama Valley is reached, a fairly open upland
plateau, but much intersected by stream-beds ; the road, as it stands, is not
good, but is capable of lieing easily made so, {)art of it running .across fairly
flat putt. At tJj miles a graveyard, called Chartanak, is reache<L and another
valley, the Kutsa. 'Hie rood here is fair, but streams, with bad banks, are
crossed. At 13 miles a low Ko'tal, the Jnrai Tang Pass, is crossed. Hero
the road is very bad and rocky, but the pass can bo easily turned by follow-
ing the River Kutsa. For the next '2 mibs the ground is rough and bad,
and a stream with nasty banks, the River Jarai, is crossed. Alter this the
road runs s. aloug the Tsamaulang Valle)', on putt, the camp being reached
in IG miles across the River Tsiunaulaug, which Los a stony bottom, but bad
sandy banks. The road as it stands is a bad one, but d^ics not present any
engineering difficulties at any port. Tiiere is no water for 11 miles, but after
that, water is plentiful and good, being foimd in deep pools in the river-beds.
252 Temple's Account of the Country traversed hj the
As fur lu the Ko'Ul of ilie TriA-A Knram Pass tho country is, as before
described in the ^>ftss it«olf, wild, hilly, and much broten, but fairly open.
It is fairly wo<xled,aud caiueltboru is abundant. Grass is jileutiful tliroughotit
the march, and in places it is thick and rank. The De'rania Valley is an
oj^en, fairly fiat, i;rassy upland plain, some 5 miles long by as many broad.
It is thinly worxled. Jn the Kutsa Valley ihe trees arc thicker, especially the
dwarf palms, aud in this and the Tsaiiiaulaiij;; Valley wild aspara;;iis aboands.
Tho Tsjimaulaiij; Valley has much tlie apj)earance of the last, except about tho
Jar&i Tang Pass, where it is stony, broken, and covered with boulders. Tb«
graBS in it is esjwcially thick, and tliere are many tamarisks. It is about
7 miles wide, and appears tn he 40 miles or so long. Hilly as tho country is,
there is but one prominent hill, tlic Dad.ir Peak. It is entirely uninhabited,
but is claimed by tho Lu'ni.s, who graze it. Wild animals seem to be abeent,
but I found some porcupine-quills in the Kutsa Valky. Three roads lead to
BflyAa'o, from the TsamaulanL; Valley, Clue duo k. over the A'Aarla'k Range,
which is said to be bad, another tnrris the range nurlluvards, but i.s said to bo
waterless, while the third turns it to tlie south, via tho CxuiTnu'u Hills. This
is said to lie a pood road. A ruad leads over the Tnrwai llills, s.w., via tho
Tonji Puss to 'J al, but it is a more phceji-track.
Tsaniaiilang, 'JfXX) feet, i.s a camping-ground, by the river. Water, grasa,
and wood plentiful ; tho ground is sjmicious. No supplies. There is some
danger of fire when the long grass of the valley is dry.
Sevesteenth Stage.
Tsamaulang to Da'la' Bha'ka. 11 miles. General forward bearing, 178*.
tith Apri!.
The road runs along the Tsamaulang Valley for a couple of miles, duriog
which, as bclbre, it is over level putt, but piasscs some broken <jrouud about
a torrent-bed, about li mile out. For the uc.\t 2 rniifs it runs through tho
low bills at the s, end of tho valley, and is there hilly and uneven, but not
bad, except as re2.ardR nullahs, which are nutnerons and deep. Tho road then
enters the Hanokai Hills, following the gorge of the River Hanokai for a mile,
during which it is broken, winding iind nunow, crossing the river frequently,
which has high soft rceily lianks. The gorge is narrow, and the sides precipi-
tous. The road hiTC, a.s now used, is bad, but is cnpablo of being made good,
especially if a bridge were thrown acros-n the gorge at the worst jwint. After
this the gorge w-ideiis to alxiut half-a-milc, anil the road is at first fair, but
crosses some Iwid nullahs. The gorge then becomes very wild, and full of
conical hills, ninid which the rwid winds at a coiisiderablo upward gradient,
culminating in a j^hnqi ascent, after which it is lumpy aud uneven, and very
bad and trying to camels. A nullah, with soft precipitous hanks 15 feet deep,
follows the roikd to the ii;:ht. The Ko'tal of this jiflsg, the IJanokai, is reached
in fJJ inilos> iit which point there ia a suiall grassy plain, the descent from
which, down the Juruai Pass, is very bad and lumpy. After this the Jurnai
V.illey 13 CTOSstsl, the ro.id running more easily over uneven, hilly, ground,
and following the Kn'han Pass, where it ia hilly, stony, ami narrow. After
this it tak«s a sharp turn toN.E., along the Ba'la' Dha'ka Valley to the camp-
ing-gronnd, where it is easy and good, 'ihe road, t»n tbe whole, as used now,
is very l»ad, liut could lie made practicable and ea.sy lor ordinary weather in
about two daj-B or so. Tho country in the Tsamaulang Valley is much as
before, over a grassy fairly wooded plain, and the low liills at the s. cnd*of it
arc grassy and fairly wooded, but stony in places. The country in the passes
ia very broken and w^ild, but grass, some of it coarse and reedy, soutlicm wood.
J
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 253
ftnd t&marisk, are nbiindant. These are, in fact, atwndaut throughout the
•liatrict, u'hicla appeiirs lo bo a scricH of nnrrow jtanillcl vi»lleyH, having much
the Kimc apiicarance as thu Tsdinaulnnj;. Tlierc arc no iiiliabitant«, and no
signs uf ixjfinlalion, but the roadways are well-defined. Any quantity of
tertiarj' fussils (sea-fish, &c.) arc f«nind in [ho Jumai Kills. Tltc water in
the Hivcrllacckai is salt and midrinkable, and there is mi more till the River
Ka'han, where it is ^o<h1 iiiid abumlunt. A road leads over the Turna'I Hills,
by a IrtJ {«isg, called the Tanr;, to Tal, and another from the Hanokai Pass to
Jiafjha'o. When the Ba'la' Dha'ka Valley is reached, the main road from Tal
and Cho'tia'li into ISa'rkho'm, via the Haii Pass, is joined.
Ba'la' Dha'ka, 4100 feol, is a burial-ground in the valley, and the usual
encampment. Grass, wood, and water are abundaut. No supplies. As on
the TBamauluii;; gronml, care must be taken to protect the cinip aj^ainst fire.
The ^ix>imd is Kijueious and flat.
EiQUTEENTH Stage.
Ba'la' Dha'ka lo Mili\\i' KJitt'i'a. IC miles. Gcnernl forward bearing, 144°.
7th April.
The road at first fullowa the Ba'la' Dha'ka Valley, and is there easy; it then
runs llirough hi;;b ruUin;; hills, willi deep ravines, but is still easy on tlie
whole, thou«li a little brukeii iu places. At 4 miles the Ba'la' Dha'ki' Pass is
entered, and here the ground is very broken, and the roadway narrow, follow-
ing a stream with high reedy l>anks, but having a sandy, vixsy bed. ITie width
of the poss is variable, from 10 yard.s to fairly ojicn sjpac^'s. Ai the 5lh mile
tho ascent is severe, over a somewhat opiii and hilly Ko'tal, but the roatlway
is not difficult. From this poijit the descent is sharp, and the road very
rugged and stony. Tlio imd then runs over the Paste' Valley, an upland
plain, flatter than usual. Here it is eaj^y. At 8 mih-ti, after running easily
over a hilly country for a mile, the Ko'tal of ibo Hau Pa.s3 (properly the
Hankai Pass, but known peo^jrapbically as the Han Pass) is reached. The
descent is sharp, over very broken cuuulry, and the n^d is Jiarrow, very stony,
and uneven, btit not so bad as the country passed through would make one
conjecture it (o lie. At 10 miles tlure is a very severe ziuzag descent, after
which the road fuUows and fieqiiently crosses the Iliver Han, which is very
narrow in places, but makes an easy roadway on the whole. At 13 miles the
entrauce tu the [jass is reached, and the Hankai Vnlloy crosseil, aloti^' which
the road is billy, but easy, crt*sitj<5 the Iliver Hun, now a tolerable lorreut-
Ixid, generally quite dry, with steei) and sandy, but not dillitult, lianks. At
14 miles a very narrow ravine, the Cho'r Taraji, is pa.Mscd. It is alxaiL 10 to
60 feet wide, and about 2(X> yanla long, the river havirii^ apparently cut its
way Bbeer through a limestone hill. At IG miles the camping-ground is
reached, at iho entrance lo the Hankai Valley. The natural road over the
paas ia not diillcult, con.sidcrinf; the country, and is cajKiblo of being easily
mode good and practicable. The steep ascent from the Ba'rkho'm side would
always be an obstacle, but the chief difliculty, want of water, could apjiarently
be remedied in roany pluces bydi^gin^, without much trouble.
The cuuntry in Ba'la' Dha'ka is grassy and hilly, but, excepting barberry
bushes, other vcRetation is scarce. In the Bii'l.i' Dha'ki' Pass the hills are
rocky and precipitous in places, but giass is abundant in the less steep places.
The whole of tho country seems to be of limestone formation (tertiary), and
tho hills may be descrilied n.H consisting of ono mass of fossil sladls. The
IVste' Valley is grassy, but trets arc sparse. The Hiui (or Hankai) Paas runs
ihicugh a very wild, lumpy, broken, country, somewhat bare of vegetation,
Teuiple** Account of the Country traversed by the
bat in the lower part trees of the usual type are abundant. The Hankai
Valley is a grassy valley, fairlj- woode<J. The most remarkable feature is the
Cho'r Tarap Ravine: it Ie a shaqi cut, narrow defile in a line of hilU. A
similar one is visible a little distance to tlie w. TLo scenery in the \yaaa is
wild and nigged, but except Tor Tsappar Peak (called Kji'li' Chuppri' by the
Belo'cbi's), there is nothing striking about it. lleiug debatable land it is
entirely uninhabited. Patha'ns claim it n& far as the N. of Tor Tsappar, and
the B<;lo'chi'8 from the s. of this peak,
MiW/ii' Klm'iV, 3800 feet, is a camping-ground at the entrance of the
Hfknkai Valley. No supplies, but the Klie'tra'a (Bolo'chi') village of Uasni'
Ko't is only 2 miles distant. Gra.ss and wood are plentiful, so also is water,
from a stream called Ba'bul jR7ia'H kn' Khu'n.
NlSETKENTH StAOE.
Jlftttht" Khu'i'a to Lvga'rf Ba'rkJia'n. 121 miles. General forward bearing,
210°. 8th April
The road at first follows the lUver 11 an, now a broad, stony torrent-bed,
through the gorge formed by the Tlia'udra' and Chap]»ar Hills into the Lu'ndia'n
Valley ])nrtian of Ea'rkho'm (iisaally called Ba'rkha'n by Europeans, and so
spelt on the maps). The gorge is about 200 yards wide, and the road, though
it is not difficult, is ver\' stony. It next runs along the river-bed as far aa
Uasni' Ko't, a deserted village about 2 miles out, after which it runs south-
wards, or nearly s.w., along the middle of the valley past Dsi'm&'ni' Ko't,
8 miles, to Luga'ri' Ba'rkha'n, which is reached in 124 miles. Along the
plain it is easy and good in dry weather, but dusty along the putt, but would,
like all putt ronds, bu troublesome in wet weather. A little trouble, lioweTcr,
would make it verj' easy. There is a little broken ground about i>a'ina'ni'
Ko't, auil the Itiver Han is crossed twice, but is an easy river.
When onco the Lu'ndia'ji Valley is fairly entered, a great change is observ-
able in the couiitrv. It, like the inhabitants, becomes Belo'chi'. The glacis
BO remarkable in Arghanistan disappears, and the hills stand ont of a flat
desert-like valley, in which the vegetation is in isolated tufts, and has the
same character as that observ.ible anywhere about the Belu'chista'n Plains.
In the lower lands about Luga'ri' fk'rkha'u there is a goixl deal of grass, and
tamarisks are abmidaut. Water is abundant in the valley, some very Rood
and plentiful water being obtained from JIn/»mu'd Wa'li Springs in the Ja'n-
dhra'n range, about Smiles from Luga'ri' Barkha'n. There is also a fair
amount of good water in the River Han, and some 9i)ring8 near the fort at
Luga'ri' Ba'rkha'n. The valley is extensively cultivatwl, the wheat at this
time of year, April, being in car, though still green. The season is therefore
far in advance of that in Afghanistan. The general run of the Lu'ndia'n
Valley is about n.e., and its breadth varies from 5 to 20 milrs or so. To the
N, are the Ja'ndhra'n an<l Jaral Hills, a fine range, under which is a lower line,
the Uha'm, and to the s. the Dhaula, Ka'ldhrai, and Virida' ranges, behind
which towers Sha' Ko'h (or SiaVi Ko'A) in the distance. To the w. the valley is
shut in tlie Durgara'ch and Bie'r Hills, under which are the Ka'ldra', a low
range, and to the k. lie the Muza'ri' Hills. The Aro'kha'n iJills lie in the
valley, ami Han Mina'ra' is a pocnliar to^rcr-iike peak, as its name signifies.
The views are somewhat fine, A road runs past the Bie'r Hills t'l'iJ the
Ma^imarai Valley, and over the Wa'c Pass, leading to Cho'tia'li, but the
pass is a bad one. The inhabitants are Belo'cbi's of various tribes, but
the country seems to belong to the Khe'tra'ns, who occupy a great many
villages in this district. Several of the Bo'lo'ch tribes are, however, rcpre-
Second Column of the Tal-—Cho'tidli Field Force in 1879. 255
scnted, and the Luga'ri's seem to claim sovereignty, their presait Tmnanda'r
or chief, Jamal Kh&'n, having been bom in the fort called Luga'ri Ba'rkha'n,
but I could not ascertain that they owned much property ■ in the place.
Lu'nds and I'sha'ni's are found in the valley itself, while Moza'ri's and Gur-
cha'ni's are not far o£f ; these tribes seem to use the uplands as a summer
residence. There is one Sayad village in the valley, and the Sayads have, as
the Pishin Sayads appear to have, a semi-religious character.
There are signs of a much more extended population in times gone by, and
the people seem to live in a very unsettled state, being harassed by the Lu'ni
Patha'ns and the Marris, those pests of this part of the world, and by quarrels
among themselves. Villages frequently change their sites. Old i>a'ma'ni',
old Khidra'ni', and Hasni' Ko't are all cases in point. This last was deserted
30 years ago, on its being harried by the Lu'nis. Everywhere over the valley
are signs of former cultivation, and there was a canal at one time nmning near
Hasn'i Ko't. Even in January last (1879) there was a fight close by Han
Mina'ra', between the Lu'nis and the people of Cha'he'n, in which the former
seem to have been victorious.
Near Luga'ri' Ba'rkha'n is Su'ra'n, an old Muhammadan tomb of pakka'
brick and enamelled tiles (blue and white), like those at Mu'lta'n ; and Shar-
<7/tala', near Hasn'i Ko't, is an old deserted fort of unknown date.
A village in the Ba'rkho'm district is a square enclosure with two to four
towers in a 14-feet wall, all of mud bricks. The walls are 100 yards long and
upwards. The houses are all inside.
Luga'ri' Ba'rkha'n (called also locally Bangala'), 3100 feet, is a small fort on
a low hill in the middle of. the valley. Supplies from the villages round are
numerous. Water is abundant The camping-ground is spacious, but rather
low and damp.
and Beharks oa
-Cho'tia'li Fieu)
Table of BABOHExaic and Theumometbio Keadikgs
Weather during tbo Maqcu of the 2nd Column Talt
FoBCE. Spring of 1879.
NB.~-All tbe HeaJiop were perforce taken in a rough and ready manner. Thermo-
moter Fahrenheit in the shmle; Biirometer Anervjid.
Puce.
Kala AbdiiUa/i Kha'n
Bad\ni'n ..
A'li'zai ..
Khn'ehdil XAa'n
»i
Bkaraii Ka'rc'z
Iff
BtiTai Pius
Balozai Kit're'z
Gwa'l
VkhmxiiihAal Pass .
Balozai Ka're'z
I'aaf Kuch
Veh Pass
Khwvi'n .
Cliiuija'n
Baia'tiai ..
Niiiga'nd
Waria'gai
Shctxan ..
Uanumba'r Pass ..
TriWi Kuram Paas
Tsamaulung .. ..
Hanokai Puss
Bu'la' Dha'kii ,.
Mii^AI' Khu'i'n
Luga'ri' Bu'rkha'n
Tbtmiomc'tric
Bammctrlc Rnulinri.
i
s
i
c
i
1
■5
il
K E
s
a H
E-
7/3
8/3
9/3
10/3
11/3
12/3
64
GO
48
5G
Gl
60
51
54
58
59
GO
73
70
71
13/3 45
15/3 54
lG/3
17/3
18/3
ia/3
19/3
20/3
21/3
22/3
22/3
23/3
24/3
25/3
25/3
26/3
27/3
28/3
29/3
30/3
bl/3
1/4
2/4
3/4
4/4
5/4
6/4
G/4
7/4
8/4
9/4
51
50
44
30 45
Not takes
31 4G
W&t.raKK.
24 -Go
24-65
24-70
24-35
24 -CO
24-35
22 35 24-27
W'trai^'^-'^
2fi 39 24-40
39
40
42
24-50
23-80
23-80
Not taken ,, 22-80
30
33
41
38
Not taken
68 40 I 55
45
60
50
53
G5
i
CO
61
58
59
C7
70
SC
80
88
94
95
94
1
95
96
95
86
28 41
Not taken
22
27
30
39
33
40
3G
39
51
53
52
49
Not taken
44
52
51
40
40
44
44
43
50
55
CI
GO
69
74
73
71
G9
74
73
66
23-35
23-30
24-00
24-15
2;i-40
23-40
22-55
22-00
22-30
22-25
22 -03
22-65
23-35
24-15
24-85
25-30
22-75
25-75
25 -GO
25-70
24-60
25-50
25-75
26-20
2G-25
3 P.M.
11 A.U.
11 A.1I.
9 AJf.
2p.if.
3r.x.
11 A.lf.
4p.ii.
Noon
9 p.m.
2 r.M.
4 r.M. I
1 P.M.
G P.M. ,
5 P.JJ. I 56
7 PJI. GO
7 a.m., 51
1 P.M. 60
4p.k. 60
50
50
32
54
53
GO
43
6p.if.
1 P.M.
3 p.m.
5 P.M.
Noou
6f.».
5 P.H.
3r.M.
2 P.M.
5 P.M.
2 P.M.
8 a.m.
4 P.M.
G P.M.
Noon
4 P.M.
7 a.m.
6a.m.
8 A.M.
Close and doodj.
Showery.
\ Btorrofl.
{Showery aad
atormy.
Cloudy.
(Cloudy and
( showery.
45 Wet
mmI
Fine.
[Cloudy and
[ Showery.
Cloudy.
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Cloudy.
Cloudy with nUo.
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
I Showery
t atonuy.
Fine.
Fine.
Showery,
Showery,
fCloudy with
[ drizzle.
Showery.
Stormy.
Fine,
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Fine.
Stormy.
Fine.
Fine,
Temple*« Account of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Route, 257
APPENDIX C.
Meuobanouk.
Spelling of Place Names occurring in the Sketch Map of the March of the 2W
Cho'tia'li Field Force (Spring of 1879). Compiled by Libut. R. 0. Temflb,
B.S.C., 1st Ooorkha L.I.
1. In the first columD of the accompanying list of place names the spelling
puqwrts to be according to Dr. Hunter's modification of Sir W. Jones's system
of transliteration. The Hunterian system is, however, not strictly carried
out, the only diacritical marks used being thosu to mark the long vowels, and
the " it<dic " sign to mark certain peculiarities in the consonants. The object
aimed at is general intelligibility, not strict scientific spelling.
2. In the second column the words are spelt in the Persian character.
Except in certain instances of well-known words, such as Muhammad, the
spelling is phonetic, as the author was not able to ascertain what the local
mode of spelling really is, and it should be remembered that in such a primi-
tive country as that under consideration local names are probably never com-
mitted to pai)cr, and so have no fixed or customary spelling. This column is
merely meant as a guide to the first.
3. The third column is written according to the phonetic method of spelling
usually adopted by military authorities, and is intended to help in recognizing
the names of the places in other journals and records.
4. As the names found in the accompanying list are mostly new to geo.-
graphy, and as place names are found locally to vary greatly in pronunciation
in Afghanistan, the writer wishes it to bo rcinemboretl that he does not
vouch for the absolute correctness of the names found in his list. They merely
represent the names as they appeared to sound lo him. Also the same place
has frequently several names, and the name adopted in his map is the one he
found to be most generally known. The writer has gone as deeply as the
hurried nature of his notes will admit into this important ethnolc^ical point in
his notes on the inhabitants of the districts passed through, which will bo
published in duo course in the ' Journal of tlio Asiatic Society of Bengal.'
Spelling of Names of Flaozs.
HUNTEBIAN.
Febsiak.
PHOHipno (Mujtabt).
General.
Tal
Cho'tio'U
Kala AbdullaA JOa'n
Kho'jak
Luga'ri Birkha'n .. ..
TuU
Chotialee
Kulla Abdoola Ehaa
Khojuck
Loogarree Barkhan
VOL. XLI3C«
258 Temple'x Account of the Country traversed hy tlie
Spklling of Namks of PiiACES— con/inwcrf.
IIUKTEBIAN.
Itt Stage.
Klio'jak..
Ma'chka
Httbi'bnUii7t
Habilizni
Shu'l
Tangai
JKftva'ja Amra'n .
Gwa'ja
Bahamdil KAa'n.
Golista'n Ka'rc'z ■
Febsian.
Achakzais
Lo'ra
Arambi
Mi'r Ealam £7ta'n
Twckhbl
Briju'a Kala
Auli'aEalti
^b'
PUONETW (MlLITABT>
Khojuck
Maiclika
Hubccboola
Hubecbzjo
Sharlo '
Tungye
p^\ ^ys^
KLwarja (Kbdjoli) Amnn
^\/
Gwnjjtt
J^ Jo^
Ituhumdill Klian
j^lT ^,\:i^
Goolibtan Knrezc
Acbuckzyea
^J
Lora
Li^J^
Animbec
^J^ ^ j^yt
Mccr CuUum Kbao
'd^J
Toorkbcyl
^ aW^.^
Brijnrno Kulla
^ Uj\
Owleea Knlla
Second Column of the Tal—Clio'tia'H Field Force in 1879. 259
Spelliho of Namib of Places — continued.
HUMTXBIAV.
Pebsian.
Phosetio (Militabt),
1st Stage — continued,
Da'dgwal
Bodwa'n
Skan
Popalzai
Asad£7<a'n
To'ti
Dardgwnll
Budwaino
Scaun
Popolzye
Ussad Khiin
Totee
2nd Stage.
Chor
SayadSa'lo
Urarazai
Haji'zi'
Sayad Paind
Sa'yadfl
Se'gai
Sha'di'zai
Bha'di'zai Lo'ra
"V
*
*
Chorr
Syed Sarlo
Ooroomzye
Hujeezee
Syed Pyne
Syeds
Saygye
Shadeezye
Shadcezye Lorn
8 %
260 Teuple'x Account of the Cowniry traversed by the
SPEUiiNa 07 Nahes of Flacbs — cofUinued.
HtmrsBiAN.
2nd Stage — continued.
FlshinLo'ra .. ..
TTnikBlTai
Earbe'lft
Sh&'h Da'd
GoQgalzai
To'ba ..
Ea'kars..
fiayamzai
Ajabzai
A'li'zai ..
Sire'Ehila
Gas
Persian.
PnoMEno QSxsjxxKt).
Pisheen Lora
Hyekalzye
Eorbeyla
Shabdadd
Gungnlzye
Toba
Eaken (Kakara)
Syemzye
Ujjabzye
AUeczye
Sirmy Khila
Goz
Srd Stage.
GAazni
Madat
A'ta' Mohammad
Ghuznee
Mttddnt
Atta Mahommed
Second Column oftlie Tal—Clto'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 261
SPELiiiKG OF Names of Places — continued.
HUNTEBIAN.
'Srd Stage — continued.
Ka'kozai
Brahamzai
SayodLal
To'flfAai
Ma'likai
Sopa'nzai
Mazarai
£Mma'ndai
Do'at Mohammad
Soma'lzai
Spin Khila
Bagarzai
Say ad Faiyo .. ..
Sayad Alab
Ya'aingzai
Sbo'rbst
Ma'likya'r
Pebsian.
iii
ur-'
♦• » *-
Phosbtio (Militabt).
Brahamzye
SyedLoU
Toghye
Mallibye
Soparnzyo
Moozzarye
Ehamandye
Dost Hahommcd
Samarlzyo
Spin Ehila
Buggurzyo
Syed Pyo
Syed Ullub
j\^^
Sberebutt
Morlikyar
262 Temple'* Account of the Country traverse by the
Spellino op Naxks op Places — continued.
IIVSTCRIAy.
3rd Stage — confinued.
Sftyad To'ti
SurMaT)
Zaia Khila
Manzabd
Ku'mil Kha'n
Xo'a Ba'za'r
Amand Khels
Kand
A7iunjagtti
Me7iturzai
Lu'r A7tu'nizais
Lnl Mohamiuad
Vukil
f[a'ji' Khti'ii
Mohammad Sa'dlk ..
Dab A7<a'iiizui
Barso'
Zhol)
Pebsiax.
PnosETic (Milttaby).
i^J^ »^Tf^
Syed Totco
L^\Lj^
Soorkhab
"^ bj
Zorra Khila
^y^
Munzakyo
J^ l)-^
Kammil Khan
Jj^ =9
Noa Bnznar
L^ tX^^
Ummund Khoyls
^
Kund
J^:=r^
Kliooiijergye
t/lir^^
Mohtcrzyea
</b^^ J^
\xMt KbanizycB
jc^r^^ J^J
Loll Mtihommed
d^j
Vakeel
yU. ^_^'>J.
Hajjco Khan
jJt>U£> tX-^rsA^
Mahommcd Sardik
j^\ylL L->o
Dubb Khanizrt-
^y
Burso
-r^V
Zob (Job)
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'H Field Force in 1879. 261;
Spellino of Names of Places — continued.
Hdntebian.
Febsiak.
Phonetio (Militabt).
3rd Stcuje— continued.
ShoA-Aalzai
AllftA Dtt'd .. .
Ivhu'shdil Khi'n.
Nu'rzai
Kama'lzai ..
Pil
Za,Tghn'a
Takatu'.. ..
Gwal .. ..
Quctta (Kwatta)
Chiltan .. .
To'r Tari'ns .
rUbin ..
Shalko't
J/
Sheykhalzye
TTlla Dad
Kbooshdill Khan
Noorzye
Eamallzye
Pool
Zurghoon
Tuckatoo
Gwall
Quctta
Chiltan
Tor Tareens
Pishcen
Shallkote
4^ and Sfft Stages.
Sharan Ea're'z ..
BuBho'r
Shmran Eareze
Shnrrtm
Bnnhoie
204
TiiMPLE'tf Account of tlic Coantry traversed by the
Spklling of Names of Places — continued.
RnrrmiAs.
Peibu^.
rjioMEnc (Hilttait).
ith j| 5th Stage* — eoniiuued.
flUTBi
SnUma'n Alicia .. .. ..
Ln'r Ang&'ng
BbaFgnndal
Eu'zanga'ng
MahamnuM] SImri'f .. ..
XAa'aiiai Ka'ro'z ., -.
imoeai Ea'rcs'z
Sa'fffcfli „ , •>
Do( .. ..
SOOI79
Soal>-man KltejlB
Lcpoc Uogong
Bliurgondjo
Koozungong
Slaliommed BberDtr
KUomLcje Earozc
BuHuzfQ Enfezc
gftTghye
Doff
Gth Stage.
Nori'n
Shanm
/TAnnehiipfai
Kalian
Tlarai ..
Borgai
Narcen
Shurrun
Khoonchagyc
KaLan
Turryil
Burgye
Second Column of the Td—Qto'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 265
Spblliro of Naxxs 07 Places — continued.
HcirrEBiAN.
atk Stage — continued.
I'aa' Khel
Morgkai
Dilsho'r
Rod
WochaAWa .. .
Me'Wia'n .. .
Sbakar
GhobargSL .. .
Zar^ftn'n Ka'rc'z.
Ksho'i Ka're'z .
Dargai ..
Gwal ..
Wulgai ,.
Kh&'rud
Khn'OiWk
GnihhtLi
Manzakai
BafftAa'n Eain
PutsuN.
■Jl/
Phonetic (Hiutabt).
Eeasar Eheyl
Moorghye
Dilshore
Boad
WochukUa
Maykban
Shukknr
Ghoburga
Zurghoon Karezo
Esboee Eareze
Durgye
Owarle (Ovall)
Woolgye
Ehanye
Khooeihlark
Goorkhye
Manzakye
8nfkha Eolla
2(56 Temple'* Account of the Country traversed hy the
Spsllino of Names or Placbs — eoniinued.
HriTFEBIAN.
PEnSIAK.
PaONETIO (MnJCTAXX).
Cth Stage — continued.
Ghaalcul
Bo'sta'n..
Baio'h .. ..
Ka'sam Khila
AKAnndza'da Go't
Jtt'fir Go7 .. ..
Bola'n ..
Sagar ..
Mangal ..
Btobima'n
Zhawar
Sagarband ..
UA-7tmnghdai
A'mada'a ..
Ztiizha, Tangai
Cbapar (Chappar)
Go'gai
J.
L^^/
Chowkoul
Boston
Snddoh
Easiiiln KhUa
Aklioonzada Goto
Jaffir Gtoto
Bolaa
Suggur
MuDgnl
Brahiman
Juwwar
Suggurband
Ookhmooghdye
Armadoon
JijjatuDgyo
Chnpper
Gogye
Second Column of the Tal—Cko'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 2G7
SpkIiLIxg op Names of Placks — continued.
Ya'j//<i8ta'n
Srn[/iar
Mo'tai
Ko'sb Each
I'saf Kach
Su'r ..
Pi'tol ..
Sur Kach .
HLNTEniAS.
Pebsiak.
PnOSBTIC (MaiTABY).
Gth Sta:e-
—continued.
Boadgyo
U:Ado
Oojdoo
Tsa'ru .. .
Tsarroo
Surana' . .
Sooranor
Sara'n^au .
^\^\j^
Saramgzyes
MuUaba'ri'
ijj^^
MooUabarree
7th
Stage.
De'wud ..
OjJO
Daywod
Pa'ni'ziiis
(^y^
Panneczycs
1
1-. ■ ■ ■ CM I TargbiBtan
jX'j.m) Sruggur
^U*»^< Mosye
<:_
L°u
Koaah Eatch
Eesuf Eatoh
Soor
Peetul
Soor Eatoh
268 Temple'* Accwnt of tlie Country traversed by the
Spellino op Names of Placm — continued.
HUNTEBIAN.
8(h stage.
Ta'zi' Kaoh .. ..
Shnagal
Sara'ngzai ..
Mnla'zai v •'
Zogan Kaoh.,
Wari'a Each
Wari'a .. .,
Eaohlara
Eodi'a .. .
Sa'bonai
Woigai .. ..
Adak Tangai
Sbudand
SnyAar .. ..
Mi'r Kha'n ..
Ka'mm
Persian.
Fboitbtio (MiutastX
^
(^IijLj
p
K
TaraeoKatch
Shnagall
Sararngzye
Moollaizye
Zaggan Kutcli
Wareea Kntoh
Waieea
Koochlam
Koodeon
Shagoen
Sorbonye
Wurgyo
Udduek Tungye
Shoodand
Sniggur
Meer Khan
Karroom
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 269
Spkllhtg of Naiibs or Places — continued.
270 Temple'* Account qftlte Country traversed by t/ie
Speluno of Names of Places — contirmed.
IICKTEEIAS.
Persiak.
Phoketic (Miutabt).
9th stage.
NftBrat ..
O'bnshtkai
Surlo' ..
Kluagta.
Kbvr&'n
/lAobargiii
Zu7;Apo'l8
I Nusrut
i
I Oaboosbtkje (Obuaki)
Soorlo
Kburgye
Kbwam
Ghoburgye
Zukhpeyla
10</t Stage.
Hindu Ba! gh
"Wuighae
Tang To'r ..
Male'wa
Soiiok .. ..
Tlarai Skobai ..
Palkai
Muli'v Tarkai.. ..
La'ndui Snrai ..
Sormasiaili .. ..
pb j^\.i>
jy
: Hindoo Bagh
I
WurguM
I Tung Tor
Malliwa
Soortokk
Tlurye Scobye
PoUkyo
Malccve Turkye
Laradye Sooryo
SoormuBtyleo
Second Column of Hue Td—Cho'tiaili Field Force in 1879. 271
SpELLDfo OF Names of Places — continued.
HCNTBBIAN.
lath Stage — continued.
Tu'r Tangai
Pla'nzAara ..
Spi'r Tangai
Churmai
Walto'i .. ..
(j&wand
JET/twai .. ..
Gtindamaiai..
Tarakai
Zwoisba..
Chimja'n Ghsa
Z.i^AIu'd
Zharpitem
Ba'ahai ..
Diirgai .. ..
Chimja'n
Syji'jgai.. ..
Pebsias.
^ V
^^^^
Phonetic (Miutaut).
Toor Tnngye
Plarnjara
Speer Tungyo
Clioorma
Woltowy
Gwnnd
Khwye
Goondamaryo
Turrakye
Zwrsha
Cbimjam Gbar
Zughlx>n
JurpitoY
Barsliye
DuTgye
Chimjann
Syurjgye
272 Tehfle'x Account of the Country traversed hj Hie
Sfelung or Nahis or Fi^cks — continued.
HvnTEBUir.
L&'QdAl
Ewo'i
PaoifEno (MiuTABT).
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 273
Spelling of Names of Places — contitmed.
HtniTEBIAN,
"Saiaighhaig
Koha'r
Sarkai Zangal
Dargi'
VOL. XLIX.
Phosktic (Military).
274 T£MPL£*« Account of tJis Country traversed hy tlie
SpEUJKa 07 Nahes of Pj:.aoes — eontinued.
Hl'NTEBIAN.
12ffc Stage — continued.
Ninga'nd
Saptirai..
(77iazgai
GAi'rMwn'
Samaar ..
ShabliOc/t
6Aobargai
Pebsian.
PHOJrenC (MlLITABT).
Ningand
Sappooiye
Gecrkwar
^y^j^
\^
d^ji^
Sumsur
Shubblukh
Ghoburgj-o
13<7» Stage.
G/m'nit ,
Bo'rai Chap.
Sho'rkai
Shaida'n
Jalka're'z
Waria'gai
KAankai
BtJthtaa!
Arbosi'n
cISj.
Ghoorrut
Bori Chup
Sherrkye
Shydann
Julkareze
Wurriargyo
Khunkye
Bukhmar
Urbasecn
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'K Field Force in 1879. 27c'
Spellino of Naxes of Plages — continued.
T t
216 Temple'* Account of the Country traverted hy the
SpsLLiKa OF Names of Places — continued.
HCKTSBUS.
14(A 8tar^.
Aktanais
Chnnna..
Awazaifl
To'r ATiaize'
Zangiwal ..
Cha'goi .. ,.
Bo'rai .. ..
Sandiir XhclB
Sagnr .. ..
Spin
Dorgni ..
Nttvgivyola ..
Tin'h .. ..
■Lanuft .. ..
Moltat .. ..
Lo'rai .. ..
]>i1ai .. ..
PEBaXAX.
PnoN-Eno (Militabt).
J/Vy^l
Uktnrzyes
^J?~
Choorma
'/b^^
Uwwazyes
Tor Khyzay
^^^j
Zimgiwall
^iru
Chargye
t?!^ ■
Bon
Sunder Kheyla
>
Saggar
LJt^
Spin
^\SjO
Durgyo
6^}^y^y
Navgivyalla
ib
Bar
ji^
Lahore
C^y%
Mooltntt
s?y
Loryo
(^ILo
Deelyo
Second Column of the Tal—Cko'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 277
Spbluno of Nakbs of Flacks — continued.
278 Temple'* Account of the Courdry traversed hy the
Spbllinq of Names of Places — continued.
HirifTEBIAN.
PtBflUS.
PhoSETIC iMlLlTAl.T -
lUh 8tagt.
Mora
^jK*
Hurra
SlolM'n
c-VI^
Bhtaima '
Smkn're's ..
y^^^
Surkaiew
2Sand > ..
Murrj-o
Sbftran Ka're'z
yj^ ^^
8buTniii Kftrcsee
Jiiich
t
Kntch
Cbim' Ko'(
o/" i-^.
Cbinat' Kote
Chi'nai ..
t/W
Cheenye
Navgivyft'ltt ., .. .. ..
is^Xjy^y
Nuvgivyalla
' ur
Kaoar
Sat/ftarai
ij\^
Suggaryo
Kachai
j^
Kutchje
Lo'waha'r
^Uy!
Lowahar
Xaigwal
Jl^
Nygwall
Kaun Wahar
J^J ^
Kown Waliar
Ba'za'r
J^^
Ta'Ia'o
JUU
Tarlow
Me'Htar
J-^'^
Maykhtar
Second Column of the Tal—aio'tia'li Field Farce in 1879. 270
Speluno 07 Names of Places — contiimed.
HVKTERIAK.
15<7* Stage — continued,
Siha'ii
To'ra ..
Sapnrai..
Hanamba'r
Ku'ru' ..
Gadiwa'r
Mutwar^/t . .
Sarr/ftar . .
Ln'ni Khe'Is
Lo'mlfti .
Ba>/7iurai
Lu'ui . .
Snrf/7tar
Paind Kha'n Ko't ..
Saiuandor Kh&'n
La'ki'
Lashkar Eha'n .. ..
Spc'raj/Aar
Pebsias.
Phonetio (Milttaby).
cV- j
Siham
*jy
Tora
i/iw-'
Snppoorye
jW^
Hannoombar
jj/
KOOTOO
j\j^
Gaddiwar
tjr^
Mootwnrkh
jh-'
Snrghur
(J=^ ^j>
Loonee Khcyls
••
Loralye
ij\^
Bnggaryo
LooDce
. Ar'
Surghur
Cj>/ J<^ jc-j
Pynd Khan Koto
(J^ ^iX-*--
Samundor Khan
Lakkco
^j^j:^
Liiflhker Khan
J-j^^
Speyiaghur
\
280 Temple « Account of the Country traverted by tJie
Spkluno ov Namks of Places — emtinued.
HnmsBiAK.
\ith 8tag«— continued.
Nu'r Kh&'n
Shau'gwal
Alab ..
Miari' ..
8aragi' .. .
Sobii't .. .
Chi'nai .. .
Spin Tari'ns
Tal .. .
Cho'tia'li .
Kolu ..
Zar/.'/ia'ns
Slarria ..
Ka'ba .. .
Kowa't
Viho'va .
Ba^7(a'o
Pebsuk.
•t
\3
Phonetio (Miutabt).
! Chotiallee
kjk^ ! Koloo
Noor Khan
Showgwull
Ullub
Miaree
Saraggco
Sobarte
Gheonyo
Spin Toreens (^)entereeitt)
Tull
^\
'J
Zurkbans
Murrecs
Balia
Kowarto
VihoTa
Bagbao
Secorul Column of the Tal— C/io'tia'Ii Field Force in 1879. 281
Spklliko of Namks oi" Places — continued.
HUKTEIUAX,
loth Stage — coiUinued.
Ttihh Kuram
Tumbe'l
Phojobtio (Miutabt).
Trikh Koorom
Toombeyl
Lakkyo
Doddor
Barghoo Tor
Churtanokk
Deyrama
Kootaa
Tsarhon
Lark
Tfamowlnng (Samalang
Cbimalang)
Jurrye
Jnrrye Tung
Toorwall
Tung
Ebnrl&rk
2S2
Te3[PLE*« Account of the Country traversed hy the
Sfelliko or Names of Places — continued.
IICKTERIAN.
nth Stage.
Oghharg ..
Garmu'u
Bagh&'o
Ilanokiii
Sha'bia'n
Narwal
JiiTDai
Brahamzai Kbelu't
Pa'rai
Balund Knud
Ka'lian ..
Ba'la' Dha'ka'
Barbu'z
Persian*.
PuOXEnO (MUITABT).
4^1
Oghbuig
CJ>^
Goormoon
J^
Baghao
lj^_^
Hunnokye
olX^
Shakkyaa
^y
Nurwal
i/^
Joomye
C^ L?l>»^
Brahumzye KLelat
'/bV
Pfirrye
i-Jo^.'^ I Kahnn
I
• ^ \ I Burbooze
ISth Stage.
Ba'la Dhalii' ..
Lowa'rki'
Ball! Dliakkec
Lowarkeo
Paste'
Pustny
Second Column of the Tal—C/to'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 283
Spelling of Names of Places — continued.
HUSTEBIAN,
ISth Stage — continued.
Tor Tsappar
I9th Stage,
Han Mina'ra'
Hasni' Ko7
UurcLa'nis
Belo'chia
Muza'ris
iluza'm . .
Sharbi'ni
Da'ku
PsaaiKS.
Fhokeito (Miutabt).
««
Hann Minana
Husnee Kote
Goorchanneca
Beloochees
Muzarrces
Moozarra
Shnrbeenee
Dakkoo
284 Temple'^ Account of the Country traversed by the
Spelling of Names of Places — continued.
"Bmnsak^,
19/ A StaQt—eoKlinu^,
Oa,'nuiki'n .. ,, ,, ,,
Jaklia'ai .. .. ., ..
DhRnlft'
KflldhiAi ,, .. ,. ,,
ShaJf^Aflla ■> .. *.
Cliu'hank' Ko'f
I'dip'ni'e
Cha'he'n .. .. .. -
Ara'hfta'n .. .. >. ..
Miborba'n
Sba'do
Ahi'mro'd
Su'mi's
Ja'ndra'
Na'har Ko'f
Nalian
Ka'ndha'
Psneux.
Lotzna'
II
PUOHCTIO (MlIJTJl»T>
Gftimnkoisi
Jullarbonaoo
Euldlirfe
Choolmrda Koto
EcBhanDQca
CliAhcuQ
Arokb&a
Mihnrbann
Sbaddo
Abeomradd
i Soomccs
Janndra
Nahor Koto
Nahor
Xanndha
Lotma
Second Column oftlie Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 285
Spellino of Najies of Places — continued.
HCKTEBIAN.
Pebstax.
Phomztio (MiUTAav}.
\Wi Stage — amtinwd.
Khidra'ni'
Da'ma'ni' Ko'f
Da'ma'ni's
Maftmu'd Wali'
Dha'm
Ja'ndbra'n
Jaral
Sayad
Lu'ndia'n
Lu'nds
Lu'ga'ri' Ba'rkha'n .. ..
Bangala'
Bie'r
Masr^marai
Virida' ..
Kaldra' i
Dnrgara'ch
Ehidrannee
Dammannee Eote
Dammannees
Mahmood Wallee
Dbamin
Janndhrann
Juiral
Syed
Loondcan
LoondB
Looggarree Borkhan
Bnogala
Byeyre
Magmaryo
Yiirida
Kalldia
Doorgarach
286 Temple'* Account oftlte Courdry traversed by the
Spellinq of Nambb of Places — caatintted.
HuirrEBiAH.
19th Stage— ooniinued.
Vatalcri
Kaliaii ..
Sha'ko'A
Bn'rklio'iu
Khe'tra'ns
Pebsiak.
FhOSETIO (MlLITABY).
Lf/\h
Vatakree
/.y&u j Kahua
I
dji \JL Shnlikoh (Siubkoh)
I
^•jO » w i Barkhom (Barklian)
\ - g\' Ehetran (Klieytrann)
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'H Field Force in 1879. 287
APPENDIX D.
Memobakduu.
Lhntificatlon of Old Routes ; with the Roads, Places, &c., found on Lieut.
Tcmi^Ws Map of the March oftJie 2nd Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field
Force.
1. The Routes herein found are taken from * Boutes in Asia : Section 11.,
Routes in Afghanistan,' by Major F. J. N. Mackenzie, Bengal Staff Corps,
1878.
2. Only such extracts from Major Mackenzie's book are taken as are
necessary for the identification of the places found therein.
3. M. stands for Mackenzie, and T. for Temple, in the following pages ;
and when these initials arc found after a name, it means that the name in
question is so spelt by Mackenzie or Temple, or that the name is fonnd
only iu their works.
288 Tehple'x Account oftJie Country traversed hy the
I
o
>i o r A o e
.2 ■•* * s s ■'^
»J'
(S3
=§1
s
M
^
s-^
-<
§
ja-i
1*
i:5
(T?
3 3
• —
^6
S3H
2 d « cs M!_;^-
«: •<3 (^ a .5 ^ s •
bd-5- e S"-53
I M £>' &^ I
1
-a 2
g
^5
a
3^
X
Ui^
-<
V5
^•^
•Xjiioq>nv
■Xunixiax
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tiaHi Field Force in 1879. 289
.a g M-a
— a a. ion^
£ S±>
'"111
w
s s
tf e eS
\2^
8§
g S a !>0
1.
>.s
- a
1=^
S
M.3
tJ o
5 "52
-JO
CO V,
I la
Ml
•S^ a
S ® **
fl o a
S «
H la
S^g 60-5
S3^
a I H £,.H S
.2 fc
o
eTJd
«<1
sa-i
a^
ill
It's*
•
J
•
1
: : : :
U
00
:
:
:
:
:
•
to
CO
1-^
:
•
a-?
eo'
a
k
•H-red
•jaa»»9ZBo
+-uw?aqa:
Vtuai
VOL. XLIX.
288 Temple'^ Account qftlie Country traversed hy the
a a-a p_H c
WBl|gS
O b ^ o
^
o
3d
a
;;
u
a •a o a
Eh
-S? .a a 2 d a e! M_j _:;
4,!^ □ „«-5-H S-53
-
!9
1
§
7
S
1-
9C'
;
*«tlM
a
3
otiinv
■iflj
1 1JUJ 'JOOTJOCTO
■iiotvuox
VWMjoqjI
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 289
g ",« i^ 3-5
c S -*^ "^ 13 ^
S±;-s ,.2 5 8
^ 3 *) ti
3 II 0=3
00 "2 *a ■**
r- 2 s s
-0» 602.3
o S P
i a M 3)
g d 11 a
•*<>S 2 5*
-TO
^ a
^a§
"-•^ "S
«) o "
"^ (o a
bo«t
<D ^5
S «^
.35^113
.2 d
3^
15 - a-^ ^'^
■^Ti 5 2 ta «
-3 "^ c H
53 S H ^ 1- T5 flS
.S ft
:§«
II
-So .
I'
fa b
hi /-\
CCi g
Si
1^
vi
I V^d •t99}%9Z9Q
i'mx\9tiji
i'lvmri
III
VOL. XLIX.
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 293
a
O
<
»
O
M
•<
a
H
H
O
M
z;
M
-luiAia
'JBi
•»11K
•xnj
■»1IH
-ijlioqjiiT
■iffllfiisj,
S
wi
S
h J? jj 'H "S
"'s2 8 2
ill
E * S
a =1 c
■I VM M33^|OT«0
■U«pq5-4J«^H
•3
a
H
2
11
Q S O
292 Temple'^ Account of the Country traversed ly the
0
O
u
■*»
o
a
eS
3
n
•<
o
K
g
J
2
i 6 e:
- i o
S
J. c « d
En M ^
c, I^ Q
H d
■a
4.:= "Si
&— .3 »p^ ■
P o c ^ -
^
■JltlJoqiDV
■Jx»)lii81
rf S 8 Si
s 2 p Si s3
i-« ei « ^
"I ^J ■JM^jnjog
4.*8tnttUtJB7— mq»inuTi9j y
&
S-S
S e
2e
a fcp
ail
•*= b-
« g-5.
a-
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 293
<
a
<
a
3
-<
n
o
is:
M
H
P
O
N
1^
a. J
3 S.'S S i
:J
a=3
I
9
o
■BMAia
■inj
■MI!K
-Xl]j«iiQT
-£ioi)±uX
■* e5? .-3
55
■a
m p e 5 a
3*0 p«ft.w
— "<2
IB o
2g?3
-illl
e « 3 B
*| tl«d[ 'J33(Y;99rac)
'BMiairg— liBiprH
u
a
■3
5
3
i:
5||
■
■ ^
1
at
g
Temple's Account of the Country traversed by the
i
a
o
1
'3
3
S
1
s
"=
1
s
a
a
a
-fa
,= s
4«
^1
c
M
i
<
t>
1^
2,
<
g
cq
o
t-H
c
J?
K
b
o
cc
E
i
■<
i
1
a
3
4
5
•«j»Am
a""
■ 0
i *
. s
X *
— 5
1
1
•iiy
•«nw
i
1
o
a
1
i n 1 11
•X)}j«niiT
•IVM -raawoBso j
■jCiotixiax
4.'aBX|aq3 — pitii — itq«3— •jaa'j
Second Column of the Tal—Cho'tia'li Field Force in 1879. 295
>
p
e
(14
<
o
g
o
p^
00
'«
!«
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( 320 )
IV. — The Modifications of the Exienial AspecU of Organic Naiit
produced btj Man's Interference. By Professor Gi
liOLLESTON, F.R.S., Oxford.
[A Lecture delivered at Ibe Evening Meeting, May 12th, 1879.]
The mollifications of the external aspects of organic nature pro-
duced by man's interference form so large a part of the results
of all human activities whatever, that the very firet tiling to l>e
said in a single evening's lecture on tlie subject should consist
in a specification of the particular spots in that vast area whic
the sfteaker proposes to touch upon. I propose, then, wif
your permission, tirsitly, to glance at certain of the alteratioz
positive and negative, in the landscape of our own counti
which we ourselves and our fathers before os have intentionally
or unintentionally produced ; secondly, to notice a few of the
many alterations produced by disforesting in our own and
other countries ; ivnd thirdly, to show what our knoAvledge as
the localities to which the parent stocks of the majority of oi
domestic animals and of oiir cultivated plants may be assignc
implies, as Ut the moditicntions of otiier regions of the work
surface which nnm hiis produced by his processes of irnportatic
and acclimatization. A few sj)eculatious as to the future uii
perhaps be found room for after these details as to the past ac
present.
I do not propose to enter into the large question of the extent
to which man may, with any propriety, be spiiken of, as he has
been, as a "geological agiiucy,' a "telluric" or a*' cosmic"
agent; and I will at this very outset of my lecture profess tliat
I think man's power of modifying the tdimate (jf the oartU upon
which he lives must be considered,* when all the facta of the
♦ U|ion tliir* Iiirgo qufslion. one only of iimny large qui'.stinns which tho varinus
dttails of ih\9 Huijjuct suggeat. uml liy which, even wi»<;ii m<«t iu the cniic- ■
they I'Xi'ite gfiicrul interest, it in well to litar Mr. Huliert lluwltiibon im hi
ill a lecture on Mctcorolojjy, delivoitd NovutJilKir 18G8, befor« tlie l£i>yiil Ku^^i :
ut Chatlium ^p. 7) :—
"U i^ certainly true tlssit mnn uwMlifieB clinjate over tracts that have hcea
cultivated ; hut it ia ivswerloil, fnrther, thnt in various fmrla of tlie world, through
tutting down foruste, and in consfqucneti of nther oiivrHtions, the works of nuui.
climnte hue hcen to far inudifitd iis Ui hiive hail ita ohanicter absolutely chnr: j-i 1
' The Thfttncs is not naw frezen over n» in tinu'H jtu-tt,' one place has tiU'V'
Ihnn lornii-rly, unnthcr fVlriee h'ss, ntid ho oh. Ifljy lus^^rtioita liuoli as tlusL
inteuiled til \ni implied Ihnt nny work* of hnmnn hiiinl.n have actually altvred tlie
enrreiit course of iinturc, I nniat meet such nllif^atiuii withu positive denial. Tlie
UK>8f s-tuiK'tidoiia of hnnmn workri enn ntJeet. only the compurfilively f^iuall »n<!
nftrrriw sjiiiee of (he e-nrtlia ."iirfiu'e npnii which they may have been fxecwtcd.
EvfH«iratiou hu.s only an iutlircet and iiieidunlnl refeienet' to the Inud — ita roil
l{/jLLE8r0X on ModiJicatioHS of the External Aspects, ^'c. 321
case are taken into account, to be confined within much nar-
rower Lounda than some writers are willing to admit. It isi
possiLile to overstate the extent to which man can gt5 in the
direction of exhausting the soil by wasteful or neglectful agri-
culture, and to fall over-easily, not to say over- willingly, into
despair as to the restoration to fertility and political considera-
tion of countries so mismanaged. And if it is possible to ovei^
state man 8 iutluence upon the iky land and its inhabitants, it
ia necessary to bo very cautious as to asserting for him any
power of altering, except iufinitesimially, the vast area of marine
life. Now, as the surface of tlie sea is to that of the land as
four to one, and as I feel somewhat desirous of showing that the
extent of the subject I have chosen is not quite so dispropor-
tionately large in relation to your time and my abdities as the
mere words in which it is announced might seem to indicate, I
should like to dwell a little upon this delimitation of it before
entering upon the subject itself.
For one of those striking suggestions qui font petuer ai ellet-]
■tie font pas croire^ has been made to the effect that man's inter-
ference has been potent, even over the sea, to an extent which men
of science have not usually claimed, and poets have denied to bo
possible. Mr. O. IVMarsh, the author of a well-known work on
* The Origin and History of the Euglish Laoguage,' 1862, as
well as of the liighly interesting work on physical geography
which appeared in 18(>4, under the title of ' Man and Nature, or
Physical Geography as modified by Human Action,' and as a
second edition, ten years later, ujider the title of ' The Earth as
moditied by Human Action : a new edition of Man and Nature,'
suggests in this latter work that the phosphorescence of the
Mediterraneaa, unknown to, or at any rate scarcely noticed by,
the ancient writers, may have been greatly increased since their
days through human action in the way of extirpating the whale.
dcpendcnoe being on tho great ocean and tlio greater sua. And so, vhile tuan
may exert an innaenco upon climate over tho little area of bia operationa, hxa
worka can avail nothing to afFeut the grand features of nature even uver that
email area, or to disturb the mjijestic scale on which she aooompliaiics her
purposea. Coamical meteorology is unaffected, and must continue to be utj-
uffecteii by huinau agency. Thu powers of inati can never st.'rioualy modify the
bent of the sua, cloud, ruin, or climnte, ua thoj»e have reference to tiie world at
large: all stntementa, therefore, vvhiiVli would ititsign ctintniM I atmospheric effect
to thi! cutting <lown of forests, to Und draiimgo, land cuhtTBtion and such like
agencies, must bo treated with pmeticil disregard."
For other discussions on the siimo subjnot. see Rnclus, 'The Ocean,' aect. ii.
pp. 93-95, ibique cifata : Ungor, as regards Egypt, ' Sitzungsbcricht Akad. Wits,
Wien,' xixviii. pp. 89-93. 18.i9 ; De CandoUe, ■ Hist, des Sciences,' 187S, p. 412 j
Unk, • Urwelt ond Alterthum," ii. pp, 128-100, 1822.
TOL. XLIX. Y
322 KOLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspects of
" la it not possible," writes Mr. Marsh,* " that in modem timt
tho auimalcula which produce it (the phosphorescence of the
Mediterranean, the most beautiful and striking of maritime
wonders), may have immensely multiplied, from the desstrnc
tion of their natural enemies by man, and hence that the git
shot forth by their decomposition or by tlieir livinp pre
is both more frequent and more brilliant than in the daj
classical antiquity." In a more utilitarian sjwrit Middent
in his '.Sibirische Rei8e,'t points out that a continuance of thj
wasteful destruction of the whalebone whale in the northeri
seas will render it impossible to utilise for man's profit thi
innumerable small cnistacea and mollusca of the Polar
wliifh that wliale converts into train oil ! The profligate incou-
siderate slaughter again by the Kolushes of the sea-cow, Bi/titt
SteUfTi, a sirenian '' whale " of the region of IJehring's Strait
which lived upon ee-a-weed, has reduced these savages to tli<
necessity of using this self-same sea-weed for manuring theii
potatoes, which useful vegetable, however, gives them a nincl
less savoury and sustaining food than was manufactured, so
say, for their forefathers in the organism of the sea-cow thej
extirpated. It is perhaps a little ungracious to point out that
the most elegant of these three correlations and interdepen-
dences is not so definitely demonstrable as the other two.
the first place, it may be objected as regards Mr. Marsh's snj
gestion, tnat the Meditorrauean whales, $ not comprehending
their number the right whale, Balmna, mysticefus, are not whah
which would either themselves prey so largely or excliisivelj
upon the small invertebrata alhidcd to by Mi<ldendorfl", to saj
nothing of those very much smaller, upon which the phenc
menou of phosphorescence so much more largely depends ;
be themselves so unrelentingly pursued by man for the sake
their oil. And secondly, witbout dwelling upon any such qua
titAtivo relations as the size of the microscopic " auimalcula
just alluded to may suggest, it is clear that the square area o
the lilediterrauean mjikes up a space for the extirpation froi
which even of so large an animal us a " whale," a very considei
• Loe. ci7.., let e>\. p. 114; 2nd ai. p. 104.
+ B^ind. iv. 2 L p. 848. 1867.
X The priiiciptil lurgtr cetacea of tlie Mediterranean are piacivorotis dolphiiu^^
such iiB Dt'lphinu* (uri'M*, IMphinug globicepf, JMphiiMt orea ; it iaat lua«tupen (
doubt whctlior fiucU wbaks ua the Itkilmiioptorio iind the gperm whole cnii bv
sid( rod (bt uiiything more tban oocnAloual visttaiits of Mediterranean watcri.
Wajrncr, "Die (iiogmphiscbe Verbreitunjf der Siiugfthiere," 'Abhaadl. d.
Cluesu d.Ak. d. Wisa. MiincliLU,' iv. Bd^ Abtb. i. ; t»nd Suudcvall, ' Die Tliienuteii^
des Ariatotolefi,' 1868, p. 88 ; * Aristutelei)' Thierkusde,' Aubert uiid ^iauoer.
Bd. i. pp. 7»-74, 1868.
Organic Nature produced by Mans InlcrffTcixce. 323
able fleet would have been required. We know the numbers
and tlie tomiagp. of the ships wbieb, till the discovery of peti'o-
!eum * in large and ftvailiible qiiaQtities, formed the whaling
fleets of quite recent times, 1849 -1850, the American whalers
in the Sea of Okliotak alone numbering 2501 three-masted
vessels, with a minimum tonnage of .500 tons ; but of any such
whale-slaying machine havino^ever existed in the Mediterranean
wo have, within my knowledge, no record whatever. Now the
capacity of the ancient writers for *' not marking withal " mat-
ters of interest t« the modem naturalist, can scarcely be over-
rated ; but it did not afiect matters relating to war and the
chase so much as such trifles as 8tonebeuge and the peaceful
though coh.»3sa! aqueduct near Kimes^ And as a matter of
fact, we find in those writers nbundanco of references made to
the mcAus employed for the capture of the tunny, a form of tljo
chase which is in no way more esxeiting, more useiul for illus-
tration and metaphor, nor even more lucrative, than would that
of the M'hale have been if it had been carried on to any appre-
ciable extent in the large sea on the shores of which so murii
of the history of the world has lw?en written and acted. Thi^
Greek word Kijreia means a fishery, not of Cetacea, but of
tunnies.
A story relating to the natural history of these true " fishes"
will show, in the way of a paridlelism, the facility with which
mistaken views may obtain currency, si modo imaginationem
firiant ant intellednm rnhjarium notionnm nodis astringant,
quantitative measurements, statistics, rehitive proportions of
masses to other things, and even literature itself, notwitlistand-
ing. In the Oxford tlnivoraily Jfuseum we have a large skeleton
of a tunny [Scomher thynnus), brought from IMadeira, before my
time, by my friend, Dr. Acland. A foreign naturalist, whose
name, under the circumstances, I think well to withhold, but
whose reputation is commensurate with Ids very extensive per-
formance, going over the Slusruni with me one day, remarked,
after paying a not undeserved compliment to the 8kelet<JD,
"That fish never came from the ^Icditorraiiean." I answered
that, as a matter of fact, it had belonged to an ocetm-going
individual ; but I also asked how it was possible to difierentiate
a Madeiran from a Mediterranean specimen. My friend
answered, "The Mediterranean is too closely fishetl by man to
allow of any tunny attaining such dimensions." I was silent,
though very vivid recollections of long, however pleasant, days
♦ Sec Mnrali, ' The Earth u imxlified by Jlan'a Action," 1874, p. 108.
t Heo Middcudorff, I c, p. 84!>.
X Har8b,1.0., pp. 42^-427.
^ 1
324 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspects of
of coasting ou those shores, without meeting any considerable
number of vessels, or passing, as on the south coast of Asia
Miuor, any considerable towns except in iiiius, mi^ht have con-
spired with my recollections of St. Paul being driven np and
down for fourteen nigUts in Adria, to make mo question this
explanation. Some time after, I found that Cetti records
tunnies of no less than from 1000 to ISUO lb. as bemg caught
now-a-days in the Sardinian fisheries ! *
The results of investigation into the extent to which man's
interference may have told injuriously u|)ou the propagation of
fish smaller in size, if not smaller in iuii«rtance, such as the
herrit)!^, may jjossibly show us that here too we have exsiggerated
our own powers for mischief. Not only is the sea a large field,
but cyclical oscillations in the " Freqiienz '" of its inhabitants
are at least as possible, irrespectively of our interference, as
are the similar variations observable in air-breuthiug animals ;
and many an animal, as, for example, the horse in South
America, has become extinct oven in recent, not to speak of
earlier geological times, owing to quite other than human
agencies. Man has no monopoly of destructive agencies,
neither, if he had, would that, as it seems to me, prove that
" thought living in physical nature he is not of her, that he it
of more exalted parentage, and belongs to a higher order oi
existences." He is not, in strictness of langxmgc, a " cosmic,"
a *' telluric," a "geological," nor a "supernatural agency." He
may ultimately obtain, as projihesied oy Mr. Wallace, J such a
mastery of the dry laud as to supersede ou that portion of the
worhrs surface the agency of natural selection; but he cannot
even there effect cosmical changes in the climate, and aa,
; j'egards the sea, it is possible enough, as Mr. Moseley has si _
gested on the two conchuliug pages of his ' Notes by a Naturalist!
on the ChaUe)t,tj(^\ that when the present races of auimalSy
plants, and men shall have perished, the deep-sea animsils, at
least, if not those of higher levels, " will very possibly remain
unchanged from their present condition."§
* fyuo Lctiz, ' Zoologii) der ultea Qriechen tmd Bumor,' 1856, p. 485.
+ Marab, I. c, p. 34.
i ' Natural Sck-cliyo,' p, 328.
§ Hiivitig been compelled to express diasent from Mi. Marsh's sD^geetiob ng ifi
iliQ [ihoaphoreso^nco of the MeditemDean hBTiiig been s less strilung pht^Qomeooaj
jn uiiciout than it is in modem timet, I cannot forbear to pay my poor meed ofl
tlrnnks to tbia writ<^r for the pleasure and instruction which his works batSj
aft'onled mo. Tlie * Kulturpaanscerj urni Hnusthiere,' of Herr Victor Uehn
leaemliloa Mr. Marsh's work in dealing with tho subjeot of man's action cnx^
organio nature in a way which attracts vie uttention and stimulates the thought]
at once of the politician, of tho literary man, and of the man of science. I '
ezpretwd my opinion upon the merits of the first edition of this work in the
Organic Nature produced by Man's Interference. 325
Beginning at home, let us consider first of all what are the
most prominent changes which man has effected in the land-
' Academy 'of August 15, 1872. A lliirJ ttlitiou of it opi>c(iri>il in 1877, ooii-
■iderablyenlAiyed iind improved And it lusiy bo ol>aerve<l tliftt, for ileiiling at all
adeqo&telj witli this suli^jet^t. and indued Rir avoidinjL; vory gruss Ijluudexiag in bo
dealing with it, a iiuin must have some knowledge not only of puwiy scientific
BubJGcts, of the facts of lii»tory on the largo scale, and of tlio reaulta at least of
pliilological incjuiry, but also of die power wbich cominereial K'gibluUou and com-
tuQrcial unterjirise have for altering tLe diBtribution of tljf vunoua vogutablo and
animal ortiidea of trade ; otUerwiHo lie may ffdl, as some bavo fallen, into the
error of t»upix}Bing commf-rcinl results tn liave been praluccd by changes in the
laws, not of man, but of clinmtc. I make thu rcmaric for, nmong other porposes,
the purpose of introducing another rvmiu-k to thu tflbct thut it iB much to bo
tegrettud a freyli edition of Dnreuii dela Molle's' Cconomie Politique desBomains'
ehoiikl not Ik; brongJit out in tJit-ac daya : it is a work of [lermaDpnt value, though
it beara the dati' of IBIO. Aa works of a, more excluaively acientifio character, but
still intcUigibk easily to pcrsoos jKissessed of a mastery of the rudtmentii of botany
and zoology, and of cardinal tmportanco in roaoarches ciuch oa these, I will
Hpeeify : —
De Candolle,' Geographic Botonique raisoon^,' 1855.
Un^^er'a " Dotanischo Streifziigc,' in the ' Sitzungsherichto ' of the Vienna
AciuJemy from 1857 to lK:VJ iuclunivoly.
Isidore Geoffroy St. Hihiire, ' Hiatoiro Natunsllc Gi5ui!rale dos R&gnoa Orga-
itiquea," lorn. iii.. 18<j2.
K. E. Baor, ' Reden und Studien au» dcro Gebiote der Naturwissenschaften,*
four octavo volumes which njipearetl in the years 18tM, 1873, and 1876, and
ooubiin much of geographical a.s well ua of other interest. Thid iUostrious Bcientist
was for Bomo years from IHSD onwards coaeerued, together witli v. Holiiieriteu, in
brioffing out at tho &ist of the SL rcteraburg Academy, a periodical. ' Ikitriige
i!Ur Kenutnisa dta liussiBchcn Eeicbcs.' In one of tlie volumes (xviij, 1856,
pp. 111-115) of this iieriodical, n short paper by v. llacr appears, the purport of
which if) shown by it« title, " Die Urullo WalilloBtglteit der Sud-rutteiticheu Sleppe,"
" The Alioriginal want of Wood on the South Riuaiun Stepi>e."' This [myiit was
written in snpptemontation of a paper which had appcarc4l iu the fourth volume
of the same periodical, 1841, pp. Iti3-198, with the wimo object of doprtM^ating a
useless and es«L'ntially tiugatorj* attempt to inuko those Bl!eppe8 tuubir- bearing.
Froui it I will give au extract, jiartly because it is so characteristic of the manner
of the great bkilogi.^it, and partly or mainly becan.'ic it shows how pure natural
hi£t(jry cuu Ik; bnmght to bear ujion [mlitical questioDH and may save a Govern-
ment from cngiiging at groat exixinse in chimerical uiidortakingn. V. Baer says,
I.C.: — "At that time (1841 J I had forborne to bring op a piece uf evidonoo in
favour of the 8outh 8tepf>c never having been woiitied) which in much older than
Herodotus ; and the present conimunicatinn Ims only just the jmrjxMM! of putting
out thifl evidence, for doing which I liuvu bad no earlior opportuoity. This piece
of evidence ia funiiahc*)! by the snuimla. They are fouuil throughout the Russian
empire, so far as txeoa iu"l> found to grow, even in the Caucosuri, but with tho
exception of the Crimea and ICamlclkatka, idthough both these |K;niiiau1as have
the food which the squirrel wants, and the s'lUtb coast of the Crimea bus it in
great abundance. Now from thoau facU the following conclusion can clearly be
drawn, namely, tJint when therie aniiiials ri'fiched tiie bouthern borders uf tliu
forests in South liushia, nad the eftst^^ro borders of the forests in Siberia, tho wido
expanse of the open (suittli nniaiaii Mte]>pcs and also the bare levels northward ia
Kamtchatka were already in oxistcncc. Whcu. waj* it, it may be asked, that the
squirrels came to these ixtrdcra of the forests? I don't know, but thut they did
conic to them before any lustoricol jieriod nobody will lie inoUned seriously to
dispute."
Usx!ur Peschol, in his *Xeuo Problemo der vergloichende Erdkunde,' 1876,
p. l&Sl, adds in explanation of this curious and conviuciug argument, ** A climh'
tOLLESTON on ModificatJons of the ExUrrrtM
scape, so far as tlie landscape is made up of organic elements,
of our owu country. I have not undertaken, and shall not
ing animal dependent for fowl upon seeds of the trees could not of coam ti»vt«l
aeroBB the j-unny j)l:un!i of gmss : nnd con8(M]ucntly the South Russian districta in
[<ineBtion luiist Uave bceu treeless ever sinot) there were squirrels •■" <'■
lK)undary of the Bnaaian forestx ; and Uiero can Bcorcely li« any > 1
wero thero tlioneands of years b<?fore the liino of Herodotus." Osc ir
no DpMific refereniM) to v. Baer's works: and v. Boer liimBclf. or L:
onriously, a wrong ono in Lis ' Autoljiograpby.' p. ti44. Nor haro I i
refcrfMce to it in FrofcBaor Stiethi'a 'Karl Ernst tou Bner, cine biognij'iiiwiic
■BkizzcV 1878. I have therefore iinofher jusfifieation for the giving <if thc<e
details, and am glad if I liuve thus saved others tronhlo whioh I hiul %■< ' -l-' f,.r
myself^ not unhdped, however, Lorein, by the stafl'of the Bodloimi libm
If Osoar Peached has made one trilling omixaion, he liMpcr toi,lr,i i
of the most iiuportiuit additinuH to geographicftl and lujthropologi
separately and combined, which haro oeon made niucti the tiu^^
nefd ecarcely specify hia
• Viilkerkundc,' 1874.
• Abhamiluugen zur Erd- und Viilkerkundc,' 2 vols., 1877-1878.
'Pbyaischc! Krdkuade,' of which three fascicles have appeared in the present
year.
The goncml jirinft)iki4 to be found expounded in the worksi above cpecifled,
have fonud a praoticid iipplication in the particular question. Are the oouotties
nlouf; the ."iiurcs, und ctiiieciiilly the e.-iHtoni shoreH, of Iho Mediterranean to he
looked upon ati naviug been exhausted by man'ij interference with them in the
way of ttgriculluro, and so roblxd of any chance of political rejuvenescence ? Andj
with tliia qiK-stirin is coimc'Ct«d that which asks wucther any ])crc<-ptlble cht
of climalu has been cflectid in tlio same regions by the 8anio agency,
literature of thin ctujttoversy. which baa beeu carried on obviouuly euongli
partisans filled ut least on oiio side with political bios, is, if we give only the ;
important uiciuoira, not very exteniiive, and may perhaps uscfolly find a place
here.
C. Frana, in liia ' Kliran und Pflanzenwolt,' 1847, takes tho pessimistic view,
which
J. P. FHllmerayor, in a review published in the same year apparently, and
repnbliehed in hia 'Gesanunelte Wt^kc,' 1861, iL 462, endonea with a bitter
imdinesB.
C Fraiis, in tho * Goschichtc der I.andbnu und Forstwhtsonacliaft,' MiincJMn,
1865, had the oppi^rtunity of again erponnding his views. j>. 350 tl patnim, in Ms
aecoant of Liebig'rt viewn. TlioHO view8 uro to be found in
Licbig, ' Natural Laws of Huabnudry,' Eug. Trnua., I860, and in his * Chemieob«
Briofe,' the ninth edition of which biiire date 1S78.
Oicar F'rans, poaaibly or prcsnmnbly a relative of C. FraaB, from certain pos-
mges in his ' Aus dem Orient,' 1867-1878, would appear to 1)6 of similar views
to thc«e of hirt naniewiko ; he ii[»eHka (vol. i. p. 218) in defiance of Arago'a views, M
exjiounde<l in • Qiuvres,' vol. viii., * Ncticoa Scientiiiques,' vol. v. ed. I8fl9, p, ^mS,
of ft " veranderted Clinm der Nilliindnr," and waya (11. 'il5), what wi^' '■'■ -'-I ■-■"•'•
ijnme surjjnso by Indinn olticiaLs, •' HeutzuUige erinhint die En* 1
kxuftigeu Eariqiker'B untcr der Sonue von Egyptea . . . man . : , 1
triige und faul, mau fangt an xa hummeln I ' An exi-ellent answer to ail this is
given by
Theobald Fiwhcr, 'Boitrtige aur Physischen Geograpbie des Mittohneerrunder,
beaondtTu 8icilienn,' 1877, ji. IM, u$4}ue adjiuem lUtru p. *fi7.
Fr. UugiT, in his ' WiHscnschaftliclie Ergebnisse oincr Beiso in Griechenland.'
18C2, bus dealt aimiinriy with this quebtion nt the couoh)»ion of his mimll but
excellent memoir, pp. 187-'.^U.
The views of Victor Hehn. and those of tho recently doceu6e<l botanist and
author of an authoritative work, ' Die Vegetation uuf die £rile,' 1872 (traiulaUd
ottempt to speak of sucli clianf^es as those which the embank-
raent of our rivers has effected, referring those of my hearers
who may feel an interest in this partieuhir oliange, to Sir
Christopher Wren's disquisition upon the subject, which may
be found with very muen else very well worth reading in the
* Parentalia,' p. 280. Bat I have to say that changes of propor-
tionately equal magnitude have been effected in our landscape
by the iuterpositiou of man in the >vay of introducing iuto it
trees which, thoujrh now naturalised, are demonstrably not
indigenous to our soil. The most striking of these changes are
those which have been effected by the introduction of the
common elm, Ulmits campeslris ; next, if indeed not equal in
magnitude, those effected by the introduction of certain eoui-
ferro ; find tlien, at a long distance behind as regards numerical
importance, those effected by the introduction of the hoi'se-
chestnut and the sycamore. I do not of course forget that such
trees as the walnut, and a host of other trees which are now
entering into the jjicturesque, if not into the economical aspect
of Great Britain, are as foreign to our soil as their names
remind us they ore; but I am not delivering a treatise upon
our forest trees, and I shall confine myself within the limits
which the three or four trees or orders of trees specified in the
preceding sentence maik out for me. Let roe begin with the
simpler cases, those of the horse-chestnut and the sycamore first.
I should indeed be ungrateiul, living as I do within such easy
sight of the beautiful, jf not unrivalled, horse-chestnuts of Now
College Gardens, if 1 did not express my sense of gratitude to
the men who introduced that tree into England. There is, of
course, as little questioo as to its non-iudigenousness as there
can be as to its beauty. Botanists, however, differ as widely
into Frenob in 1877 by TchiUatclieflD, viz. Gri«Gbach, may bo given in the words
of the latter, when roviovring tlio former in tho ' Outtingcn gt^lchrto Anzeiger,*
1872, xlv. p. 17<j7. With tke«i' views wo ajjreo. TLey run thus : — " Mit Reobt
verwirft or die M<i>iniing i\asn die klnasiseiietj lAndfr orRchi'ipl't sciicn and ciner
EmeuBmng ihrer ehemaligan BKithe kcine nfttiirlicho Grundlogon inchr huten.
Er trifft das Wi-ecn der Sarlii;, indent cr SAgt, diui8 ihr Kliino, im GrcwBen
aufgefjufflt, nicht vom Bodon und seiner Vfgetntion, sondom von ' weitgreifendon,
meteoroloj^ischen Vorj^ngen' abliiiDgo, dio dnrcL ibre geograpinsi'lie Loge
beatimmt, 'von Afrika und dem atlimtu+chon Jtcore liis znm Amlen nud Siberien
reichcn.' Ebi-nso niUB8 nmn sein pingcbeiidt.-s ViTrilundniss diesor Frftco
anerkennen, wenn er ini lU-reich der AgrikultiLr-Chciaii' nieb j;egen die AnfiicLt
aussprioht, daas der Boden Siideuru]ia8 durch seine alto Knltur an mineraliacben
Nahrungsatoft'ea eracbiipft wi Wie dit^ loiuburdirioba Klxne dutch dio AlpenSiiaee
mit fri.sohen 8iiioaten und Kiilk^dzcn geBpeiat wird. bo liel'orn die bo manigfaltig
geglicdcrtou Gebirgekotten, welcho die lilndcr nm Miltelmcori' erfullcn, aiu dam
Iiuicrn ilircr FeUnuwAcn iiDerscbi">]ifliehe und duri^h daa lliett»r:n<le Wasser stedg
ausgebrcitetti Vorriithp, nni din Erdkriuucn der Thdlen und Tiefebeneu immor
wieder auf Neuc zn befruohten."
i
328 EoLLESTOX on Modifications of the External Aspects of
as possible as to what its native land raay have been. I have
not been able to satisfy myself that Hehn, ?.c., pp. 348 and 4ii7,
is right in saying that we owe the introduction of this tree into
Europe to the Tiirks. All hut oertaitily this was not the cas<s
if 1>. Hawkini?, as rited by Fiedler in ' Keise durch alle Theilej
des luiuigreiches Griefhenlands/ 1840, vol. i, p. 649, is rightj
iu saying that this tree grows wild on Tindus and Pelion.
There are not wanting species on either side of the Greek Archi-
pelago which no natnralist would divide or bifurcate, nor, I
imagine, has the Greek Aniliipelago existed iu its disconnect-
ing dist'ontinnity as loijg tis the sjiecied JEscidxis hippocttstanutn.]
The sycamore is another nndoiibtHdly uou-iudigenoua tree,]
bnt it is thoroughly iiaturalispd and abuudniit in certain partii]
of England ; and notably in tlie Lake District it forms a very I
characteristic feature of the landscape, when it is massed roundj
the ef|ually distinctive old farm-houses. In the Lake District!
its leaves have assumed a somewhat darker colour than tbeyj
ordinarily bear in the southern and midland counties; and it«j
bark ol'teti exhibits wliat >^ome naturalists would call a mimetio'*
analogy to that of its fellow-couutrymau the Oriental plane.
The sycamore has -yet other claims upon our attention, as the
readiness with which its seeds take root might have loni '
ago destroyed, even to the eyes of the least observant, tbi
i(hlon theatri molestiasirnvm et iiuqdiasimum which taught i\
if a jJant could be proved to l>e non-indigenous in a country it
was useless to expect it to tlourisli there."
I will now tuin to the Couifera>. In another place,t I drei
attention to the well-known and universally accepted fact, thi
till comparatively recent times the tScolch lir (P/»«s sylvestrig)
the yew [Ta.nt3 haccafu)^ and the juniper (Juniperus communis)
had been the only representatives in tliese islands of the natural]
order Coniferai. 1 did not dwell then, and 1 will not dwell noWpl
upon the greatness of the difl'erence which has, in the last]
three hundred years, been effected iu the general aspect of oui
country by our successive importations of the spruce, the larch,
and the silver fir from other European countries, and the multi-
• For an example of tlie operation of tliia notion, so opposed to the most obviois ^
facts, aec ' Viti (Fiji), by Ik-rtholJ HcDiimnn,' p. 4'2C, wliere, niiropos of tho eitat
ment " tlie cotton jiJuut is tirjt indigonous in Fiji," wo hnvo tbc foUowing note :-
"Mo^t bf tlie neW!i{>u]K:-rs took \\\\i fact to ha a fterinuH drawback to tltO'^
Buccfssful cultivation of c-ottori, ((uito forgettin^r that cntt/m is not indig«nuiis to'
tLe United 8tut<.'si and uiniij otiier countries in which it llourighoa. I made
csactly thu sonii' Htatciupiit (cotlou is not iiidigenons in Fiji), but ailr]e<l that not-
xrithstiindirig, it hail bftviniH ahiii'i>>t ivild in some purte, bo well 13 the ooiiE
adaptai for it« (jmwth. — B.8.'"
t ' Bjitish B;«rrow*,' p. 721.
Organic Nature produced hy Man's Inlerference. 329
tudinous trees belonging to tbe same order from North America,
from North India, I'roui California and Mexico, from Japan,
from China, and from Cbili,^the names of vvhicli " plants oi <he
fir tribe suitable for the climate of the United Kingdom, culti-
vated by ... . nurserymen and seed merchants," fill up some
sixty-six pages in a sale cataluguo now before roe. Any
traveller, by rail or otherwise, can appreciate the greatness of
the alteration wliich has been effected by man on natm"e, if he
will but bear in mind the three trees just specified, and
recollect as he sees the silver fir s|ireft<ling out with its airy
interspaces in the sky-line, and the larches and sjiruces clothing
the hill-side in acres uooa acres, that these trees were as little
known to the untravelled Englishman of the times of the
Tudors as were the " Weymouth " pine, the Deodara, the
Wellingtouia, or the Araucario;. The statesman, indeed, can
read something of the political and commercial history of this
kingdom in the trees which speak of the various coiuitries,
further distant apart from each other than are "China and
Peru," with which Eughiud has successively come into rapjiort;
and tlio changes uhich he has suggested to him are scarcely,
if at all, less complicated than those which the naturalist can
show to have been similarly set up in the world of lower life
represented by birds and insects, yince I wrote as above (I. c.)
I became ac(]uai[rted with an article on "Coniferous Trees" in
the October number of the ' Edinburgh Review ' for 18U4, to
which I would beg to refer my hearers for a detailed juid very
interesting account uf the successivo successful acclimatisations
of members of this natural order ; and upon the ground thus
sufficiently occupied I will nut encroach. It is not unin-
teresting, and not entirely irrelevant eitlier, to observe that
Great Brjtain and Ireland wore both riclier in Coniferae in
recent geological periods than they have been since those times
down to those of the .Stuarts. In the sunken forest at Cromer,
in Norfolk, in a depos^it" of a period immediately preceding
the glacial, we find the spruce fir represented, together with
nearly all the rest of the scanty list of really indigenous jMjst-
glacial J'jiiglish trees. In the Cromer forest we find the spruce
represented, together with the Scotch fir, the yew, the oak, the
elder, the birch, and the blackthorn. The ash has somehow
failed to join itself on to tliis company ; but we see it ibrming
one of it, though the spruce in its turn is absent as well as all
other trees, in many small copses or thickets in out-of-the-way
330 EoLLESTON 071 Modificationa of the External Aspects of
parts of this country. Such, for example, ar6 many motintain*
lime-stono headlands in parts of the Principality, where the
Welshman — in spite of the traditional hatred for trees which
his race, like Kome other ancient races, as, for example, the
►Spanish, is said to entertain — has allowed the ancient flora to re-
main, and left it unmixed with foreign imjiortdtions. The inter-
vention of the glacial period will easily account for the wiping
out of the spruce from the list of pist-"lacially indigenous
British trees ; but it is not so easy to explain how it has been
that the silver fir {Ahies pectinata), which is found in the
Scottish pent, was absent from at least historic Britain till
the year 1GU3 ; and that the Fimts mufjhus, the T/eda of the
Bomans» should be found in the peat-bogs of Ireland, and
should subsequently have become as thoroughly extinct there
as the Irish elk, Cervus megaceros. On the other hand, it is
not difficult to understand how it has been that the Scotch fir,
with characteristic pertinacity and hardiness, followed up the
retreating glacial forces moro closely than even the "Norway"
spruce ; for at this day it propagates itself, either by self-sown
or by squirrel-sown seeds, much more surely and widely than
does this equally or more than equally hardy tree.
I must nut leave the subject of the Scotch fir withont rectify-
ing an error relating to it which various writers,* from the time of
Cossur's Greek translator down to those of Evelyn and of nayseJf
inclusivoty, have fallen into when writing iilunit it. Julhis
CiEsar, in an often-quoted and as often mistranslated paspnc" *
says of Britain, " Mateiia cuiusque generis, ut in Galli;
preeter fagum atqne dbietem;' and these words are ordinarily
taken to mean, " There is wood of all kinds to be found in
Britain, as in Onul, except the beech and the tir." Poor old
Plunudes of course blundered, as a Constantinople monk of the
fourteenth century was sure to blunder, " reaping," as Mr, Philip
* Planndes &, 1327 a.d. See p. 4G of Appendix to Gsmbridge edition oidaau't
Woi-lta, i70B.
Evelyn, ' Silva, a Discourse of Forest Treea delivered in the Royal 8o^i(|r.
Oct. ly, IGG'i," EiJ. llunler, 1776, i>. 139. ^^
llastud, ' riiil. Trana.,' vol. bti„ for year 1771, pt. 2, 1772, p. 106.
Do L'aiidrillc, 'Owipr. Btjtuiiimie,' pp. 154, 089. 1855.
JriiinK, ' Forest Trcua of Grait Brituiii,' p. ■i'l.
Kollettou iu 'British Bariowi!,' p. 722-724. To do myaelf justice, I did not en
so widely ns my oonipnninns in this matter. I waa as ijjjnoraiit of Latin as they ;
but I actUBod Jiiliiia of only one bliimUT. while they accused him of two. If I had
rooLy bcliuvixl that " Cfleatu' dotti not wrong but with good caust^ " it would hoTo
been better for mo. As it was I made a jMKirish "cxphmiition" for Joliua as
regarded the ahiet, bat confessed that I felt Bomo doubt U3 to the accuracy of hif
statenuMit aa to tlio beech.
t De BcUo Gallico, T. 12.
'Smitli has remarked apropos of his edition of the Anthology,
"the reward which often crowns <ho lahours of bad editors ^vho
undertake great works;" and the words of JuHus appear, L c,
in the following Greek dress: irdv ilBo^ Be BivBpov Trap' aurot?,
,a)« ii> TT} TaXaria trXrjv <f>riyov re Kol TrevKrjt, ^verai. EvelvD,
speakiug of the tir (p, ld9, I. c), uses the following words;
*' which with this so iMjmmon tree (the beet-h) the ^eat Ca?sar
denies to be found in Britain; .... but certainly from a
grand mistake, or rather, for that he had not traveHed miieh
up into the country." Hasted (?.p.), iu 1771, translates the
words thus : " This island lias every kind of tree the same as
Gaul excejit the fir and the beech. Some scholar,^ hold still
that this is the right way of translating the words. But my
friend Mr. J. V. Muirhead, the author of the Life of James
Wutf, pointed out to me that prtvteTf in the language of Julius,
does by no means always mean except, but means sometimes
simply besides. For example, when * Ariovistus stipulates that
Caitfur and ho should meet and confer on hi>rseback, each
briuging ten assessors with him, Ciesai-'s words run thus:
*' Ariovistus, ut ex equis colloquereritur, et pvieter se, denos ut
ad colloquium adducerent, postulavit." And we may learn
froju this single passage that it is as well to be quite s\ire nf an
author's meaning before we impute ''a grand mistake " to him,
espumlly if he happen to he really a grand man, I may add
that Cicero, in a single passage in the same counectiou as one
which I shall have to refer to shortly for another purpose,!
uses the word frttter in both the senses, except and besides. His
words, telling us how Verres bestowed himself, sumni, vitu,
dujrri, plenus, run thus : " Vir accumheret nemo prietet- (oicept)
ipsum et praitextatum filinm; tametst recte dixerim dne e«r-
cepliviie viriuu quum isti essent neminem fiiisse .... Mulieres
! autem nuptai uobiles j^^rftfer (beside?) unam niinorera Isidori
I' filiam, &c. iSrc. Erat Pippa qutedaui uxor .... Erat et Nice
foemina." My own natural history studies had familiarised me
with the line of Plantus, Stich., 3, 460 : —
'•Mustt'ln murem tit absttilit prmter pedoa " —
and should have shown me that the heal moaning of prxter is
also its fjerwral moaning, and that it retains the idea of "by
the side of," even when by the aid uf a negative, expressed or
implied, it comes to he more ronveniently translated by the
word '* except."
It would oe perlmps showing as much over-anxiety to vindi*
* De Bello Gnllioo, i. 43. t X. in Vcrrem, Act li. Ub. v. 31, 81.
1
334 EOLLESTON on Modif cations of the External Aspects of
more of the previously barren, sbifting, sandy waste, received
great impulse, as did many alien interests, by tbe interniptioi
to -Vmerican imports caused by their great Civil War,* ant
they occupy a large space in some of our various public er-^
hibittons of economic products. Some little uncertainty appeao
to hang about the question as to the person to whom the ehi<
credit of this work, which has been compared, and not unjustlj
with that of the recovery of Holland from the empire of the s
is really due. The ' EHinbnrgh ' reviewer assigns it, apparenth
with good groimds for so doing, to M. Bremontiex, and to
periwi beginning with the y«ir 1789, Professor Koch,t whils
mentioning {I. e. p. 293) Br^'montier, couples with his name thai
of M. Desbiry, but adds thsit the greatest credit of all is due tq
M. Ivry, of Bordeaux, whom he visited himself in 1864, ou hifl
own plantations at Piau, and foimd to be still a vigorous mi
though eighty-six years of age. Professor Koch pays a met
of praise to the late Emperor Louis Napoleon for his exertioi
in the same direction and locality; and it is, I tliink, to anoth*;
name connected with the Second Brnpire that the credit it
rightly or wrongly ,t assigned, of having enabled the wastes oi
Griiscony to produce and to boast of the hetero";eneou8 multitude
of useful products displayed in our industrial exhibitions as
being now manufactured out of the pine imported thither from
Corsica.
aa it did in the Cir-off tiiiios when tho [iriscon inhabitaata of Sicania fed optrii i(
roota, ai Ciooro (X. in Vorrem, Ant. ii. Mb. v. 38, 30) suggested tlioy did bef(i|(
Ceree gave tliem in thut very island tbe gift of Orealia. and as it did in tho mii«
later dftys when VerroB, by malTereation and mtUndministratioD, reduced Ronu
tnilora on the sborca of what was oollLtl tho grnnnry nf Rflmo, and was bnt a fq
days' sail from Rome, once again to j^uoify hunger by feeding on tlmtchamctcrist
Mediterranean ]>lQnt. The imiwrtanoe which plants imi»orted from tlie No
World hoToaBsnme*! in tho Old, fornis a subject by iL«elf ; of the two just »nt5ci
besides their othi-rupplications. \vc learn from Admiral Smytli's utill iinsinpMfl
'Memoirs of Sicily and its Islunds,' 1834, p. 17, thnt tlity "form im|K-n«
palisades for fortUicatioiiH, ond in thu plains theyjiresent very serioos obst
to the operutious of cavalry."
• Lavergne's ' jficouomie Riunlo de la Franco,' cd. iv., p. 29G.
t PpofesBor Koeh, of Berlin, who 6i«tua to consider the planting of the yinel
be the climax of attainment in tlio way of utilising a proviuaaly dcaolate
writes thus of it, after visiting Ibc niMit : " Weuigor milohte ca bekannt i
onsero beliebten rothen Burdtftux-VVeiue oboufalls in dicsom DeparteL_
Hoiden wacliscn, raid divsa dcr Bodcn vor nicht sehr langor Zeit hier eret l_.
Weinfolder urbar g^-tnaebt wurde. Die guten Woino wurden friiher ouf
gegenttberliegenden Ufer dor Giroude gewonuen," p. 234.
6«o also GIsTt^, ' fitndes but rficonomio Foresti^ro,' 1862, cited by
Marsh, I. c, pp. 505-006.
Bcclna, ' EoitTi,' Eng. trajas., i. 82.
Edmoud About. ' Le Progrfes," chap. ril.
I^vergnc, ' fioonomic Romlc dn In Prance,' 1877, p. 297 seqq.
X Wroncly very likely— in England we are content to ascribe tho ioTeation (
tho ufcty lump to Gcorgo BtephetiBon.
I
*
resinous and other products of this plantation form now an
important article of commerce ; their sale and the planting of
they were intended to make inttlligiblQ to the eyes, thtn.by sparing the eara, of
those who honmirod iiic liy conaing to iiiy lecture. I had willi ine —
Firstly, tho ]>icturo jubt rofcrred to, wliicli was inteiidt^ juiiiinrily to illnstratc,
as were some of the othtr pietureti, the iiiiBchievous notion of the gout, umkrwood
being almost entirely nbacut ; two goata being drawn browsiag upou Huch shrubs
aa were left, niid keeping them down to a line oorresponding with what Hueikin
calla in this cnuutry, where tho old legal rule, bidentibut ejeejitw, Ktill biipjiily
holds good in practical pOBturage, the " «?attle Imo." Tlii> great moss of the pieturo
waa ocoapied by the tall pinea in ijucstitni, mid tho ban', burreii, and Bunburut
Dative rocks, which irrigation and tho prohibition of gnats raigUt cover with tlga
and olives.
Secondly, two pictares from Ixtpeiiis'H Egyntinn ' DenlvDJiiler,' Abtheil iii. 46,
iv. 3, and iv. lit!, reprcBcntcd goata and menollitd in tho unbiJy task of destroy-
ing tlie polm-treeu of an eneniy's country. In one ofllicsc* pictiirc« tho goata had
R8aum<;d the same arboreal liabitjs which they are drawn as exliibiting in Llookcr
ond Ball's * Marooco,' p. D7, in the argtui true. This picture was also ehowa
enlarged by permiiwion of Sir Joiieph Hooker. One of the pictnreH from the
Egyptian monuments wna of the tiiuo of tho 12tb ilyniisty, and thoreforo. Pro-
fessor Rawtinson informa me, as early, aivording to Wiltiinsun, as from b.o. 2020
to B.C. ISWI, or even, according to Brugach, as from b.o. 2378 to d.v. 2200. It is
of oourso important to know that Iht^ [iidru Wiw su untly as this a familiar object
to Egyirtittu eyes, when, as I furthir learn from I'rofessor Rawlinson, " the earliest
<late-polma represented on Assyrian monnmonis belong" to no earlier a date tlian
n.O. 833 to lix. 858 ; and that even in Babylonin, where tlicy now flourish far
more tJiaii in the region corresponding to Assyriu proper, the jmlin-treca Ijiivif not
Ukonunientiil evidence for an earlier date tliun B.C. 150O. A cylimlor from
Babylouiu, of uucertain but not earlier date than this, is figurud in I'rofessor
Rawlinhon'a ' Ancient Monnrehina,' vol. iii. p, 23, 2nd edition. These dates
furnish something uf an argument in favour of Ungcr's siiggeetion tliat Hie palm
may have had its original homo in Upper Egypt ; and may muko it seem more
firobablc that tho Assyriana learnt from the Egyptmns, than the Egyptiuus frum
them, tlie art of cultivating this tree. Kiiuipfer (' AnKunitates Exoticas,' p. 714),
declares hiniftelf to be, as indued the inhabitants of Egypt tliemsclvos were, of
opinion that Arabia was tho native homo of the palm, and be dismisgcs tlio claims
of a more westerly origin in tlie four plain words, uani Ajricam tioii mr/ramur.
Wc shall, however, go liereufter in detail into the claims of the " Hark Continent."
Thirdly, a picture of the gnltieriug in of tht date harvest in Persia, taken from
KiMnpf*rs book just rtf erred to, whiuh wus ustul to illustratti in connection with
certain reports of Ihe formation in Algeria of djite plantations in regions previously
barren (see lieclus, ' Earth,' i. p. 98, Eng. trans., lS7i ; Laurent, ' Me'moires sur
le Snhara,' p. 85. 1859, eit. Marsh, L c. p. 482) the power of man for producing
happiness and enjoyment in localities previously but sfnidy, thirsty deserts.
Fourthly, a picture enlarged from one given in Martius' ' Uistoria Xatuialis
Palmanmi,' iii. 182S-I650; vol. iii pi. 120, of tho rnins of the ancient Agrigentum,
with their modem surroundings. It is tlius described by Martius himself, p. 249,
note: — "Chamiorops humilis, alia (k^nressa, alia data ootodeoimpedalis, in agro
Agrigentino, antiquissLmis minis celcbri, depicta u CI. Frid. Gacrlner, arohitecta.
Muros conspicis magniiici tenipli quod Jovi Oljinpio olim eoiisecratum, nunc
inopia palmnj, opuntio?, et agaves doiiiiciliiiun factum «st. Junouis Lucinm, Gon-
oordin et Uerciilis tomplu cUruta remotiores tenent colles. * It would be difficult,
except possibly by tho introduction of the orange and olivo into the picture, to
cive A more instructive view of u Moditt-rraneau lundscai)e as altered by man's
iDterfereuce. Tho ruins of what Pindar ealknl the faire«t city raised by earthly
men, of what Virgil called " maxima longi; nMEnin,'" speak to man's power for
flestruotion ; the agave und the prickly i»ear tell of his discover; and utilisation
of America : the fiw-palm with its spreading, far-reacluDg roots and suckers stands
336 RoLLESTOX on Modijicatiims of t lie External Agjiects of
which Feeble and Wart, even if they were not their "craft's
masters," coiiLl, under tlie supervision of that admirably qtiah'-
tied musketry instructor " Master Cur|)orato " Bardolph, learn
in a few weeks to use with as much effect as the most stalwart
of tournament champions, disphiced the bow and arrow, though
not entirely till after the wars of the ItoseB. This displacement
seems to have entailed the disappearance from many and many
a locality of lines and avenues of yew-trees, of which here and
there we still have a few representatives left us, and which, in
eucli places as the combes in chalk districts, form in the way of
contrast, and iudeed also intrinsically, such a pleasant and
interesting feature of the landscape.*
Of the vastnees of the change which the introduction of the
common elm {Ulmus ca7npestris) into Britain has produced in
the landscape, any one who will count and compute tlie numbers_
of the trees visible in any one of our midland counties at
view will readily convince himself. It has, I think, been
already by some one, and may now be said again, that pre-
viously to the development of our railroad system all the
experiences and sensations of the great majority of our rural
fellow-countrymen were gained within an area limited by a
horizon bouruled by an uninteresting^ row of these hedgerow
trees. Of the evidence for the belief that this tree was really
imported by the Komans, and not known here previously by
the Britons, however familiar it be to us iSaxons, I have spoken
elsewhere.t To the grounds for that belief, there stated, let
me here add the authority, fir.5tly, of the Cromer forest, in
which no elm (not even the wvch elm, of which 1 do not here
speak) was found ; and secondly, of Mr. Bentbam, J who says of
it : "In Britiiin it is the most frequent elm in central, southern,
and eastern England, but in tho north and the west only where
planted. It is, indeed, doubtful, whether it be really indi-
genous anywhere in Britain."
Man's increasing command over the inorganic world haa, in
yet another way and in another time, and that our own, very
powerfully modified tho botanical world aroun«l him ; and
* Uflvisg above 4]Uoted Mr, Hasted to his duBadvantage, I wish to make i
oompciisation to hia memory by here quotiug a sentenoe of Lia with which 1 1
tirely agree, but which 1 had not read wfauD I wrote as I have done in the tu^
relatiTdy U> the yew. It ia the couclu<Iing aenteoce of the abready quoted paper
Id the ' Philosoiihieal Transactions' of 1771, and runa thua : " Whoever baa beea_
much aoauaiated witli tlio woods and tracts of groiuud lying on our chalky M.
will surely never contend that the yew ia not tho indigenoua growth of '
eotmtry."
I ' British Barrowa,' pp. 721-722.
I ' Handbook of tho Britiah Flwra,' p, 7-16.
Organic Nature produced by MarCs Interference. 337
I
! iiavticular instance of the efficiency for good and evil is a
matter of some pruetical eousequenee, and one which is still a
subject of discussion and comes into the spliere of legislative
interferenco, I will mention some of tlio facts concerning it.
1 refer to the effects which the by-products of certain manu-
factories exerciso upon the ve.i;;etiition of the districts in which
they are situated. One of tlie most intorostin«^ papers I have
ever had the good fbrtime to list<m to ^vas one mad by my
friend Mr. Robert Garner, f.l.s., at the British Association
meeting- held at Newcastle in the year 1863, and printed in the
I{e[>ort for that year at p. 114, as also in his *Nortli Stafford-
shire Trai'-ts,' p. 10, roprintt^d from the 'St^ifTir^rdshire Adver-
tiser' of 1871. His wonh rim thu*:* "With respect to
chemical impurities of the air, diflerent plants have different
susceptibilities for such infiueuce, and the greater or less im-
purity of the atmosphere may indeed be shown from {ho effects
on plants. Thus the rhododendron will ilomish in an air fatal
to the common laurel ; wheat will luxuriate wliere a holly or
oak will die. 8onie plants which appear naturally to luxm-iate
in the coal strata— as the oak, li<dly, or some ferns — die when
the mines begin to be worked. Fortunately, annuals aufter
least ; I'ur instance, corn and wheat do well where nothing else
can, and perhaps the exhalations in question may even tend to
ripen them. An increasing deterioration of the atmosphoro in
towns and mining districts may be estimated by means of plants
as follows; — 1. In the smallest degree of impuri!ty, trees are
destitute of the leafy lichens, and Erioa>. the f^cotch Wr, and
the larch die. 2. Next, the common laurel, tlie Deodara cedar,
the Irish arbutus, the iaurustinus, and the yew die, 3. The
arancaria, the thuia, the common cedar, the mezereon, and tho
Portugal laurel <lio. 4. The common hollj', the rhododendron,
the oak, and the elm die. 5. Annuals still live, and the almoud,
poplars, and many roses thrive, fruit-trees are barren, peas
unproductive, d. Ilieracia, Beseda hitea, the elder, some saxi-
frages and SLHlums, with many syngenesious and cruciferoua
weeds, still luxuriate."
The mountain and moorhmd plants are most, just as the
nettle, tho elder, the shepherd's purse, the sow-thistle, are leixst
susceptible of antihygienic iniluences ; the former as well as
the latter set of organisms showing the iuHuence of habituation,
both alike being unable to "leave their place of birth; they
cannot live in other earth," or rather air. The presence of the
VOL. XLIX.
* British Associutioa Beport, I. e.
338 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspects of
former would be an infallible sign on the hygienometer ;
presence of the latter encourages us not to despair.*
♦ That mnn bus Bomt'limcs the power of undoing the tniBChief he has doi
even by the somcwhtit perilous, and ofteu miflckievous, action of k^gislulion,!
prici* of the t'Vidpuo*; taken und given liofore Ho3-al Comrnijsions on iioxii
vnp«nir8, ond piubodiud in a Blue Book ofla.'d yotir's '1ST8) date, will abundaut
•how. Tliifl prc'cii I take from ii tetter sig:ni<d " Edwurd Sullivan," in the ' Tir
December 2, 1878. In this Iptter Mr, Sullivaa says, in sumining up for
defence of the alkali miiuufaetiirers : —
"As rcfrords tlio injury »lono to tlio picturesque value of land by alkali i
iocturcrs, I aru ulraid thBre is no dcmbt tlicy must plond guilty. In some
fsptfinlly in that of Sir Iticliaid Brooke, the dama)j;o is most distressing:
tliero iii (I concurreTice of evidence from Widnes, Weston, Runoom, Bt. Heleru^
Flint, ami Hehburn, thnt during the last four j-eors, since the passing
Alkidi Act of 1871, the dnnin;;ti hna very much diiuiiiiiihed, and that in 4
where the uuiaber of works has not increased the present donmge
preciabfb.
"At page 10 of the Ilo{»ort, Major Crosa states he lives a mile »nd a half
the centre of Widnes. Since the iiassing of the Act of 1S47, ho bad a fait orop^
fruit, and i-o-sert mid flowers grew liixurinntly.
*'i*iig« U (Runcorn). Mr. Wigg 9tiit<'d \w Imd )>lnnted 1800 trees round
house, about u mile aud a half from Uiu nearest works, 'which Tfero all grwinag
very well indeed."
" Pago 1 1 (St. Uekii'a). Mr. Giimhlo produced two nhotograplis of n plant»tiao
1000 yards fmni i\\v< work«, one tuken hi 18(32 for tiio u.sc M the Lords' Cont^
mittee ; the otlicr. taken iti ]S7<> at the same spot, showing n manifest impn>|
mcnt in growtli ami c<indition of trees.
"Page 11 (Flint). Mr. Musjiratt .itafed thnt mihsequently to the Act of IS
Tegetation wos not aftVcted at a prater distanoo than 200 yurda. Ho tiuitAnccd
gardens containing elra.i and other trees lloiirisliing within 500 yarda, and
oaks growing luxuriantly witliin n mile of liis work.s.
" As regards the depreciation in agriculttiral value caused by alkali worl
great deal is to Ixj «aid.
" Pag^ 8 and fl of the Report. Major Cross, ' for seven years a aeml>er of
Widnes Local Board, and tivo years its chairman,' slates the averago selling^i
of land in and (dioiit the present site of Widnes in IS'il not to have exc
50/. per acre. The greulej- part of the site of the town and works of \Vidnoa
bonght in 1860 at from 30/. to 40f. per acre. Since that time favourable sites
within half a mile of Widuos have been snid at the rtite of 160tt/-, 2400L, onil
■48001. per acre.
" Lund at Dittou, a mile and a half from Widnes, which in 1858 was not worih
602. per acre, was sold for 3007., and of late particular Iot« in Ditton and Gnmtol^
tbo one bcitig two miles and a half, the other three and a half, from Widae^
were sold ut OOOf. pcjr acre. Tlic»e pnrcha.ie.'j were made for building
Tillas, &e. As regards letting laud for agricultural i)ur])«iea. Major Cross i
several extmets from the poor-rate bfioks, showing thnt the estimated
land situated near the works hofl steadily and often largely incr
instance, at Cuertiley, on wliieh the i>rineipnl Widnas works are built, and which
contains 1573 acres, mainly the property of Sir Richard Brooke, the estinuited
Talae of agrieullunil hind i»er acre was, in IStJl, M. \'2». 7d. ; 1871, 1/. 16#. dd.',
1857, 2f. 'if. At Ditton the value of laud for agricultural purposes bad
dnring the same peritid from \L I'M. per acre to 3J. 5». "d. (page 9),
" Major Cross meets the allegation of the deieriomted value of farm pioda
hf stating that in the near neighbourhood of Widnes milk sella at from ScL to <
ft quart; hay at from lU. to HI. per ton. He states ho has known htxf and st
grevm within a mile of Widnes fetch the highest price in the Liverpool
and that in lS7a the Maacheattr and Liverpool Agricultural Society gave to 1
Organic Nature produced hi/ Man's Interference, 339
M. de Lavergne, in his work on the • Economie rurale de la
France depuis 17ii9»' does not mention the name of any indi-
tenaiitd of a fanw of 80 acreu within two miles of Widnos the prize for the best
cultivated Iftnd.
"Page 10. 'Mr. Wigg. while ndimttin^ the ilainage done in pnst times U)
Sir R. Brooke's eatato, oaaerted tliat the value nf hiu r>ro[>erty, throiijjli the prox-
imity of tlie alkali works, liad enormoualy increasetl,' That oflt^itc consists of
1200 ncrea on the Lancashire side and 5000 on the Cheshire sidej and Mr. Wigg
.statoii his reason for belie-i-insi tlmt tlie stllmf: value of the Lancashire estate wa&
ut thiii moment greater than that of the two estates tngether in 1860.
" 3Ir. il. Heswiok and Mr. 11. Liiuiker, both ugonts to important efltates near
the wrirks at Riinrom, Weston, and Widnca, and long and intimately connected
with the district, Imre witness to the name effect aa Major Cross. Both, while
admitting t«casioual visitations from gas, and conse<]ucnt injury, di.*lare that
they have ncTer had any ditiiculty in liudins: suitable tenants at invariably
increased rates. '1 can more readily,' «ay« Mr. lio^wiek, 'let land at letter
rents within 5 or 6 niihs of Kancom than I can on other i)f(rtion.s of Lord
ChoUnoudelcy'^8 estates 20 mCea awny. . . . Within tlie last few years I have
refused 4L a statute aero for land for agricidtural purposes close to Widnea M'orks.'
' The rentjds on tlie property in the neighhourhoiid of tlio works under my care
have gradually inereased during my time, Lut they have inereaacd more rapidly
during the last few yeare. The rental of two farms at Rock .Snvage, near to tho
"Weston works, hnn increased from 1013/. in 1863 to 1503/. in I87G and 1877. I
regret that 1 cannot say the some for estalea under my care at tho distance of
20 miles." (Pago 11.)
" I think, therefore, I may fairly assert that when tho Kei)ort on Noxious
Vapours, 1878, ooinea to 1» fairly oxamiued and rliscu&sed. as most ocrtainly it will
be where so extensive uu industry is at stake, it will iiroyu that, great as may be
the nuieanoe complaiuod of by the landowners of Luncasliire, they have in tho
great majority of rases receivi;d u very snhstantial aet-otf in tho increasiDg value
of their land, both for reutui aiid for sjde.
" Tin' alkali industry is a nece-ssity in a manufacturing country. If it \h an
eTll, it i;* a necessary one. Sulphuric acid, tlie lm.<o of all alkali pmduets, may
be calletl the heart of nil uiautifacturing iudtidlries. The consumption of it is
the surest gauge of their condition. There is scarcely a manufactured article
in daily usti that is not more or leas dependent on it. To enhance the cost of
its prtKlnotion by hasty or ill-judged legislation, would enhance tho cost of
half the industrial protlucts of the country. It is not tho greod of mann-
iaclurcrs that has increased tho numlxr of alkali works, but it is the increased
trade of the country that has dcmatided an increased snpply of an indispensable
element of j)ro<iuetion.
" If new works had not spmnp tip at Widnes or St. Helen's, they would certainly
have sprang up el.«ewhcre. It is to bo regretted that so many works liavc con-
gregated ut Widnes and St. Helen's. The consuMiptiou of coal alone, a million tona
at tae former and u million and a half at the latter annually, would of itself cause
great nuisanw! to the neighbouring districts ; but who, pray, is to blame for this
evil? Not, certiiinly. Ihe manufacturers who bouglit and leased the land offered
them by the landownora, but the landowners who nffor«i it.
"Coiuj)kitit3 of injury done to trees, to the picturesque value of ornamental
property, do not (>ome with very good grace from tho very proprietors who have
sold and leasefl eontignous land at very high prices, for the expressed and avowed
object of erecting and extending the works they now wisli to ilestroy.
*'8ir Iticbard Mrookc, whoao name most frequently occurs in the report, and
who is undoubtedly the greatert sufferer in the picturesque value of his estate,
has within the last few years leased land immediately opposite his house, at a
very high rental, for tho erection of alkali works arid tbe deposit of alkali waste;
and, 1 understand, baa hundreds of acres more to be let for tho same purpoio : nor
z 2
340 HoLLESTON on Modifications of iJie External Aspects of
vidnal as lmviiif|; been spcciully concerned in the great
Ruecessful undertaking of rcdeeminn; the Bordeaux Landc
But his remarks upon it * have so much of vahie in them, and
touch upon 80 many of the multitudmous sides — historical, poli-
tical and cconomicul — which this enterprise, and other State-
BUpported enterjirises, present to us Avhen we study them in
their entirety, that I think I may be allowed to quote them as
they stand. After touchinii on t!ie daugera which pines more
than other woods are exposed to from the sparks which the
railway train so readily and so fatally scatters in such dry and
parched districts; but omitting the not inconsiderable, even if
not complete, safeguard which the planting of lines of the
Eohifiia 2^seu(laeacia on either side of the railroad would furnish :
which ho might very well liave added, as this tree does such
good service in this way in other parts of France: he dwells on
tho cost and the necessity of wells, and the State help in the
way of subventions for this purpose ; he alludes with eomo not
unjustifiable bitterness, detect ible again at pp. 453-461, to the
" lost opportunities " for good in the way of developing the
resources of the Landca which the warlike folly of expenditure
in Algeria lias entailed ; and finully,, his allusions to the un-
happy relations into which the J\loors were successively brought
with tho Spaniards, with the Frencli, and lastly with tho Turks,
are not without a singular interest and instructiveness. But
M. Iiavergne shall speak for himself and in his own lan-
guage :—
"ITn pen avant la revolution de 1789, au moment on tout
s*^veillait a la fois, do grandes compagnies dc dol'richement ee
foudcrcnt, mais sans succes, pour avoir voulu aller trop vite :
d'autrea epais du meme genre ont echoue plus recemment par
la meme cause. II n'en a pas etc de meme dos tentatives par-
tielles faites en plcino connsiissance de cause par le.s ])roprietaires
du jiays: plus d*une sfieculation prolitable s'est realisee sans
bruit Bur des points isoles.
"Le chemia de fer de Bordeaux a Bayonne traverse main-
ia he by any means the only landowner who has let and sold load cxpieatly fir
the eroctiou of alkali workt$.
"There is a geuonil dcBire amons alkali inanuriioturers to minimise tl*
nuifiance and injury cauacd liy tliwu works. Recent logislution has iiinlc-f''-''
tenJeil to t!mt rcBuU, and any further legislation in tho siiux" direction •
rensoTiftblc and prncticablo will, 1 know, receive their hearty Hiipjjort; but •
he a fatal mistake if a sriinewlial onesided sfcilement of local griovonwh
caiiBe tiny hnaty lo^^'iMlatioii that wouhl de»truy au industry that is aLs .
indisjiensablo to the manufacturing prosperity of the country."
♦ Tuges 237-auO.
Orgar.ic Nature produced hy Mans Interference. 341
■tenant les Landes daus tonte leur longueur, et y apporte la
puissance <le riinlustrie nioderne. La valcur des teiTes ix
imnieiiiatemont doulile, tnplo nicino, !o loiij:^ do la ligne, et tout
le luoude cnmprend (\\\\i la 6(>latinii dn prohleme n'est pins
qu'une questiou de temps. Eien n'etait possible dtina un pays
sons chomins ot siins eau : la compflgiiio du cliemia de fer s'est
engagtSo a ouvrir sur plusfeurs points des routes munifs de rails
en bois, et si en mr!me teiiipg on jmrvient a creer de Tcau salu-
bre, soil au nioyen de puit*} on do eiternc^," soit au moyen de
canaux derives dea etangs, le plus diflicile sera fait; le rests
viendra do soi. La plus gruude partie des terres incultes sera
sans douto semee en pins, cheues ct (.■benes-licges, et pour acce-
lerer cette transformation, una loi recemmont rendue perraet a
r£tat de boiser les terrains communanx juscju'a concurrence de
8is millions tie francs. Les aiitrcs bnuiches de la culture no
doivent cependant pas tVro nef^ligCL-s, et il faut leur faire aiLSsi
leur part, car lo danger des inceudies, si gniml pour des bois
resineus sous un soleil ardent, ne permet pas de courar le sol
d'une foret inimensG et continue : uuo simple etincelle du
fdietuin do fer suffirait pour niettro le feu de Btjrdcaux d
Bayoune,
" Les Landes peuvent etre nussi productives quo quelquo
eontice que ee soit, lojiis olios eonserveront tonjours un caraetere
special. La siiigularite de cette nature sera uu de ses cluirnies.
Les regions inhabitees ne se pretent que lentement a I'liabita-
tion de I'lioranie, et lo regime pastoral, qui nniitiplie les ani-
maux, et par eux les eiigrais, y sent longtemps, avec le regime
forestier, le ])riucipal iustruuient du progres. Qnaud on nicsuro
par la peiisce cette vasto solitude, qui s'ctend jusqu'atix portes
d'une die nos plus graudes villes, on s'etonne que fa France ait
pu songer a coloniser des pays lointains, au lieu de porter ses
eflforts sur elle-meme. Si le dixieme de ce qua coiitc TAlgerio
avaltcte depense dans les ]iaudes,ou atiraitobtenu de rneiiteura
rusultuts, et Ton aurait epnrgne bien des tlots d'un sang gcne-
reux ; mais les sterilcs cunquutcd do la guerre imus ont toujours
bt'aueoup plus seduits que les crcatious fccoudea do la paix.
L'arrondissenient de Mout do Jlarsun, bien qu'il renfermo le
ehef-liou du dcpartement, ue coutiont pas plus de 1(J0,0(J0 habi-
tants sur 5U0,O00 hectares, com me le Tel africaiii, et il a'y
trouve plusieurs parties deja tres-peuplees et tres-cultivees ; dans
• " n eiiRit, pour avoir do Tcau potable, <Ie rreuacr <les paits do cinq ii six
mttrea do profondeiir, uvec des pftrois ijni)oritn.'aljles, t-t d'y iiitroduiro une coacbo
do gruvier. Clmcun do ccs piiits codto UOO fnitics. Lf s LandeB pn poBSiJ»doi)t
d«'ii\ uiio cinquanloine, ot on <*ulculo qii'il auJHraJt do 10(1,001} franco pour en dotcr
toutoa les communoi qui en luuiiqueut."
842 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Axpectx of
la Lande proprement dite, il n'y a pas plus de 10 liabitants
100 hectare?, tt quels habitants ! Uette terre, ipii sera un jc
popiileuse et floris^^ante, n'oftVe a iVeil qu'un spectacle de ties«>
lation : c'est le desert tel qu'on va le cJierrher au dela des me
avec son triste eilenc^, sa vegetation chetive et &es horia
" La tradition mcoute que, quand les Mores furent cl
d'Espagne, a la fin du seizieme siecle, ils demanderent a s'ef
blir dans les Landes, avec I'esperance de les fertiliser. Les p^
jug-e3 politiques et roligieux no le permirent ptia. Nou moil
civilised ai cette epoqiie que beaucoup de peuples chretif^ns.
Mores connaissaient d'excellents precedes de culture qui mi
![uent encore leur passage dans les plus riches provinces de
*eninsule. Les Landes seraient probablement devenues pr
ductives entre leura mains, et co qui leur restait de la barl
musuluiane auruit recule devant les idees modemes de tolerat
et dY'fralite. yils out t«nt dt^genere en Afrique ou ils se sol
refugietj, c'e&t qu'ils y onl trouve h« Turcs, le jilus destructei
de tons les peuples ; cette eivilisatiou a peri tout entiere faui
d'uu asile oil elJe piit se developper. Mais le royuume qui derail
bientot revoquer 1 edit de Nantes et expulser de son sein d( '
Chretiens et des Franfais, ne pouvait s'ouvrir a des enfants
rishim etrangers et persecutes, et ee qui a puissaminent contribi
h, miner I'Espagno ne pouvait contribuer a enrichir la France."
Leaving now the subjects of the introduction of foreign tr
and that of the unintentioniil destru<-tion of our own, ax.
taking u|> the subject of disforesting generally, I have to
that the literature of it has in these latter days become all bi
coloasiil ; and that the moral of it all is just tlie reverse of thi
of the capitulary of Charlemagne," whore it is ordained tlx
wheresoever any good men and true are found to be availabi
they may have lorest hmd given them I'ur i^learing: vhieut
invenient utiles nUos homines lis ddiir silva ad e.ctirpa>ulum. T«
hundred and fitty }>ages of the second edition of Mr. Marshi
excellent work, ' The Earth as modified by Man's Action,'
devoted to this .subject alone ; the bibliography extending ove
nine pages, pretixed to hia work, is veiy htrg(dy made up of
the titles of works bearing upon it ; and I hold in my hand a
sraidl, but closely printed, Gormaji octavo, wliich Ims some
280 pages devoted to the purpose of specifying the names and
giving a few lines as to the scope of such works. Its own title
is 'Die Bedeutung und Wichtigkeit des \\' aides, Ursachen und
* Cap. sccund. Anni SIR, nhn Capitnl. ssi. od. Btephun. Baluzios, 1677. toOB. {
p. 51(1, De Villicis regiia quod faoero dtbeat.
Organic Nature produced hy Maiis Inierjerence.
Polgen der Entwaldung, die Wiederbewaldung, mit Riicksicht
auf rflaiizenphysiologic, Klimutologie, Meteorologie, Forststa-
tistik, Fiirstgeograpkie uiul die Forstlicben Verhiiltnisse aller
Liiuder, Jiir Furst- uud Luudwirtlie, National-Oekonomeu uud
idle Freuiide dua Waldes, aus der einscldaj^enden Literatur
Kysttmiatisch uiul kritiseh luieliirewiesen iiutl bt'tirbeitet von
Friedrich Freihcrni v. LotTulliolis-Colberg, koiiigl. bayer. Ober-
I'drster.' Leipzig, 1872,
But in Herr v. Loffelliolz-Colberg's list "aller Ijiinder," there
is uo mention of India uor uf its forest or otlier departments,
nor of tbeir anmial reports, nor ol' tbe names ot (1) Balfour, of
Birdwnoil, (2) of Cleglioni, (3) of I>idzcll, (4) of Danvers, (5) of
Bramlis, of J. L. Stewart, (ti) of Colonel G. F. I'earson, or of
Beddome, to each of whom, though unknown to me personally,
I feel myself personally indebted. And extensive as is his
bibliography, it admits of being supplemented by the specifica-
tion not only of works which have appeared later, and in India,
but of some of considerable importance which appeared earlier,
and some of them in Europe of earlier date.*
• For the Memoirs of the Indian antliurities named above see : — (1) Revenue
Deixirtint-ut, No. 981, 1848; (2) Catalogne Bombay Producte, 18G2, and Journal
Society of Art», Feb. 7. 1879; (3) Sind Forc-at Reports, 1858-18C0; (i) Jcmnial
Bocioty of Arts, May 24, 1878; (5) Ocean HigiiwuyB, Oct. 1872, and Systematic
■Works, p. 2U4: (G) Keport on Forest Departments of India, 1872.
As rcignrde other memoirs I find no mention of t. Bticr's papors u;ion thi8 VE^ry
cKune question of tlio relation of woodfi to rainfall already referred to sujjra, in the
'Boitrige. ziir Kennlniss dcs Russiscben Keichcs,' iv. 1841, p. 190, xviii. p. Ill,
1850. From the former of tlies*' two pap<>.r8 tlie followiag Bentencta may with
Bomo wivanLttgo be qiirjte<l, pp. lUO-iyi : — " Noch viel weniger darf man glaubcn,
dou nach dem Yerhultni:»e der Waidnbnnhme eioes Luudes (lueh die Waaaer-
mengcn in eeineu Fluiideu ahnehmeu wiitwe. Ek ijst uichl unbcr Alwicht den
Einfltigfi gunz luugneu zu wolka ; nllein wir wolleu uaclidrilcklieh durniif anf-
nierkiviin rmwhen, doss dio Niedertehltigc aus dor Luft iiiolit von den kleinem
nnter ibnen liegendeu Localitiiteu abhuugen, Hondern von grossou au«g(;dehnlen
VerhiiltnisR-n, von vorherrsclionden Luftziigen von der Quantiliit P'euchtigkeit
welche diesc LtiftKiJgc milbringen, von der Differenz zweier einander beriihrender
LnftmaBSi-n, linsa die»e Nietlernohlajre en sind, die unaern FiiisHen Niihrunc geben,
dusa in uniiiem Breitea aie irt Vonn dcs Sehuces mehrcrc Monate hindurcli nufge-
Kpeichert werden uud eiidlicb, diiBii in ciucui 6u Hochen Lande wie ICussluud die
Feuehti(;kcit welcLe in Form von Kesen und Sehnee niederfallt, nu* uehr weiter
Feme kumiuen kann. Dasa iimsere Fliituse und beoonders daa Oeliiet dor obern
Wolga in tnjckenen Soiuuiern wenig \Vas»er habon, hat seinen tjniud vorziiiflieh
darin, dnes bier kein Oebirgc Let, an welehcm Nic-dersohlago dus gauze JaUr
biudurch nuthweudig crfulgeu uud cben deshalb hnt os ohne Zweifel von jeher
einzehie Soinnier gegeben, in denen das Wa^iaer ungewohnlich niedrig atand.
Wir kcnnen Zeuj^nissc liierliber aunderZeit Peters desGrosBcn, und ohuo Zweifel
wird man sie aus n<ioh friiherer Zeit iinden wenn man durnnch sneht."
And to siipph-meut a second time the bibliography of Herr Lofl'elliolz-Colberg,
I will say tliat the following quotation from tlio woU-known and aceomj>Ui»hed
writtir of tlio iiixteontb ecutury, Beruardi I'atiMy, may fairly take ita place with
the foregoing more Btrictly scientific opini<in of von Baer. Mr, Murab shall intro-
duce it for us (J. c, p. ;{03) ; — " In an imaginary dialogue in the ' Keccpte
Veritable,' the author, Pulistsy, having expres^d hit) iudignatiuu ut the fully of
i
344 EOLIESTOX on Modifications of the Ertemal Aspects oj
I show you yet another work, an English Parliament
Eeport. of date 1875, Fob. 1, rospeotiiig the Production anti'
Consuniiition of Timber in Foreign Countrii^s, frum which a
very large amonnt of most useful infonimtion ean be procured
for the very moderate charge of llti., one penny less than one
men in destmying Ihe woods, his interlocutor defends the policy of fellinpr t}i«n
by citin>^ llic txnmplfi of divers bishops, airdiiinis, priors, obbots, moakn-rips jiu«l
clinpter?, ■wbo by oulting Iheir woods liavo lufidc tbri'e pro/its, tbo sale of tho
timoer, the rent of tho grtiuiui, and tlio 'g<:)od {Kirtion ' tliey received of the giuia
prown by tho peas^auta upon it. To this argument Puliasy replies : ' 1 caunot
enough (k'Unt i\m tliinp^, and I call it not ati error, bnt a ciirxc nnd a cnlamitj to
all Franre ; for when roroats shftll be cut, all arts slirill coast', nnd they who pnwv
tiae thum hba!! be driven nut to eat grass with Nc-bucliadiiezzar and the beasts of
the Held. I have divers tiuio.t thought In set down ia writing the arts which
shull perish when thoie ehall bo no more wood ; but when I had written down A
grout nuiuber, I did pereeive that there could lie no oiid of my writing', luid
having diligently coBsidered, I found there was not any which could Iw foilowi-d
without wood .... And truly 1 eould well allogo tu thee a thousand rcasona,
but it ifl so cheap a philosuphy, llmt the very chttinber-wonehes, if they do but
think, nijiy sec that without wiod it is not i»oBsibIo to exertise any maunor of
InimHU nrt<ir eiiniiiiig;.'" — '(Euvres do Bernard Piiliitiy,' Paris, 1844, p. 82, Bnt
pnblishc'il in 15(>3.
1 may do well to ntglect chronologiwil order and mention tlio work by Dr. J.C.
Brown, a Fellovyr of tbo Royal Oeogniphical Society, which nppearwl iti 1876
under tho title, ' Rohoisement in Fniuco ; or Records of tho Replunting of the
Alps, the Cevennes, nnd tho Pyrenees wifli Trees, Herbage, and Du»h. with a
view to ftrrrsting and prf^venting the des-tmctivo eonsofjuencea and ellLt-'ts of
Torrents." Dr, IJrown Inw besides this nnd other works on kiudretl or on the
flame subjoets, given us a work on ' The Hydrttlngy <if Soiitii Africa, or DetaiU of
the former Hydrographic Condition of tho Cape of Good Hope, and of Caiuea of
its present Aridity.'
Professor Ernst Elwrrnayer's work, ' Die Phy»ikali.«"hcn Einwirkungen d««
Waldes," being the ' RcsultHto der forstliehen Versuelia-Stationen im Konijireich
Bayern,' Aschnffcubiirg, u of Ititer date (187.^) tbim tlie bibliographical predt
LoflTelbnli-Colberg, and wt<uld not Ihi-refun- htivt- been reFerri-<l to by that
as it ought to bo hy bU aubseinient writirs on the same bubjcet.
Professor Karl Koch's • Vrvrlesungen tibfT Dendmlogie," one-third port of vrliirti
is devote*! in the subject of the '' IiiHueuce of WfKxis on the Htaltli ff Men, and
on Clituute," is similarly of later dnto (1875) than tho lost edition of "ilr, Marsh's
• The Earth as modified by Man's Action.'
Latent in onler rf time, out by no loenus last in order of merit, I miint pb
ProfesMor Wellington Gray's 'Notes on Tree-Plnnting nnd the AVater Supply
the Deer^n,' Aug. 1877, eoiittiined in the txeellent \'Mh Annnnl Report of X'
Sanitnry Comniissionor for Bi'inbay, Dr. T. G. Hewlett. The iufiueftoe
climate of eoftniical as comparHl with loenl ngeiiejea; of mountAin and mom
that is, us eonipared with nnin'a jdantations; and on the ullier, tho iiifluencej
the brute popuhitkm of IthHii, tlie gouts niid tlie camels, as lYunjmred with
agency nf the Inmian iuhabitnn1.s, who besides enijiloying the two orgnnic mc
for destruction just nove luentioued, also "hack, cut, nnd burn," will ho fntrn
instructively, though brielly, dirtiussed in this essay. I take Uiis opportunity i
fulditig to this bibliognTi>hy tho names of tliree books with tlio couteuta of w^ich
I was not act]uainted when I wrote as above. They arc: —
'Wtttd, Klima, und Wa.'jser, von Dr. von Liburniiu,' 1878. Tliis little octavo I
one of tho Munich series of Scieneo Primers, bting lid. .\xix. of' Die Nntorl
cine Nnturwifcseneehiiftliclie Volksbibliulhek.'
' Die fflrstlichcn Vorhiiltiiissc Froukreichs. von Dr. A. v. ScckendorflF,' 1879.
•Dcr Wald im Nationnien Wirthschnftslebtu, vou PL. Geyur,' 1879,
*
Organic Nature produced hy Mans Interference. 345
shillinj::; — a fnct which would have rejoiced tlie heart of the Iftto
Mr. Joseph Hume, ll'iti a(Ulition to tliis work we had rendered
availaljle to its the usutVuL-t of the viist experience recorded in
the Bhie J3ooks ol' the Jmhaii Forestry and Sanitary Depart-
ments, in a volume of aiiythiug like the same size, 1 do not 8uy
of anything like the same price, the India Oth'co would add
considerably to iho very large claims it has established upon
the gratitude and acknowledgments both of men of scienco
and men of action by the publication of those iuvaluable
volumes,
I do not propose, indeed I do not dare, to attempt to give a
summaiy of the refiults of the very many volumes here alluded
to, pleasant and even absorbing reading though many of them
have proved themselves to be. I will not discuss the curious
belief still prevalent in Spain, to the efiert that trees breed
birds, though somewhat similar articles of faith are not without
adherents nearer home, merely observing, so that I may
afiront no one, that it would be truer to say that the destruction
of trees leads to the haniahment of birds, and thereby to the
sexual, and in that sense gpontaneous, generation of insects.
Nor will I speculate as to whether the hatred of a tree, which you
will be told in travelling in countries and districts at home and
abroad (even in Sicily, see Fischer, /. e, p. 135), where the Celtic
or other pristine ethnological clement is still strong in the
natives, is due to a hereditarily transmitted recollection of
the days when, as the capitulary just quoted shows, man had to
wage war against the forests, or a f.imilarly transmitted recol-
lection of the much moi*e recent forest-laws and the feudal
state of things contemporaneous with them. Neither, on the
other hand, will I content myself with simply rejieatiiig Jlr,
Marsh's summing up of tlie matter in the short way which long
words so often (literary critics notwithstanding) enable us to
sum up tiie results of a long investigation, and saying with
him that (p. 300, /. c) the forest's "general effect is to equili-
brate caloric influences and moderate extremes of temperature."
But I will firstly, upon this occasion, repeat what 1 Imvn often
heartl my late and much-lamented friend, Mr. Wm. Menzies,
the author of tlie sideudidly-illustrated book, ' Forest Trees
and AVoodland Scenery as described in Ancient and Modern
Poets,' say, to the effect that England is alter all as well wooded
a country as probably any other civilised one in the world,
adding that Sir John Lubbock has, as I think, either in some
volume which ho has contributed to science, or i)i some return
which he has extracted from i'arliomeut, established the same
fact And, remarking that if we couple with this fact the
I i
346 RoLLESTON on 3fodifcations of the External Aspects of
consideiation that tliis favourable numerical repi-esentation
trees is not due to the existence of large forests, we find tiiereit
an illustration of the working of certain peculiarities of our social
ami political condition as compared with those of other countri<
which I leave to your consideration ; I pass on, secondly, to saj
a few words as to the influence which trees exercise in the waj
of modifying climute locally by means of theii- leaves. Cle&rlj
this comes fairly under tho title of my lecture, llau can cut
down " the goodly fir-trees" and other trees too, " Laubholzer''
us well as " Nadelholzer," of an entire country ; he can bi
them, and by his domesticated goats and cows and camels he
can prevent their suckers and their seeds from replacing them.
by fresh plants. What consequences follow when tho squat
area which a tree in full leaf represents is abolished ? Firstlj
whatever else may bo disputed, there can bo no doubt the Ic
of this square area means th(! loss of a very considerable area
upon which dust and partictilate matter can be caught and
jBitered out of the atmosphere. The more sticky the leaves,
course the more perfect the interception. And as moder
investigations, such as those which Mr. John Simon, C.B,,
to have carried ou whilst in the Medical Department of thd|
Privy Council OJBce, have taught all those who have ears
hear, even if not also eyes to see, that the germs of many or
most infectious diseases are iKirtindate* we can understand how
• We have Bucb acctiunta from Hiivennn and Bcyrout ; from the Eaat iwd it
West Indies, and! from Guioim. Lord Mark Kf^rr (see ' Roport on Meagnr
adopted for Stiuitary IraprovemenlH in Imliii for Jane 1871 to June 1875
p, H) did macb planting in Delhi in 18t)4, uud, on roming eight ycara later
take stock of tbu effecta of Lis Jivs^icnif work, was ablo to persuftde hiiusclf
the qIdiuhI entire diMippeamuoe df the Delhi iwiil woa du<:> to tliis pfirtii.-ular cat
But the Indiiiu Oloverninent had to rc{)ort in the succocdiuf; year's volume of
same scries, p. 17, thnt they hiid not rve«ived from the uuthorities they had
soiled, •rt'luabie datn to wnrrant any general couehisions Leiiig dmwn as to tl
offoct of trees uiid ve^'httion on those sores." Slill they prop<*ied '* to ttiatitate
more particular ir^qiiiiy into the uiattcr, and to suhudt n Ite^iort on the inrcNst
gntioQs in due eonr.sc." Upon thia subject sotuethiDg muy bo found in Mn|
Menzies' ' Forest Troes and Woodland Sct-aor)',' 1875, ji. lol, u. t. thique ah ijn
nuctore necnon a me cilata. Since the ap]>earance of Mr. Sleiizies' work tb
literature rclatinfj to tho Eucnlijplw ifkibtdti* as an agency for "purging
unwholesome air" has attained a groat devclopnjeul. Espt.-cially to be reci
meoded is a paper, 'The Eucalyptus neui Home,' by Dr. K. Angus .Smith, F.R.fi
published in the ' I'roceedings ' of tho Liteniry and PbUosophical Society i
Mauube8ter, vol. xv., No. i), p]t. 1 '»U-]&4, 187ti, us a\m some |.tn|M>ni i» tha ' Edil
burgh MLMlieal Joonial.' Fobrunry 1S7H, and Miiy 1879, pp. 1052-1053, by ~
Bell. Aud wbut is better even tbun (rood luemoLrs, good progress has boeu m;
in tho way of nctually plnntiiig' this tn^o by no leHs oonripicuou.t warriors tha
Garibaldi in the Komnn marshes, and by Sir Garnet Wolseley iu Cyprus. I hat
not, however, heard at any fiather developnieut of the uao of tiie Uetianth*
annuiM as an anti-nialarious agent, uor of the ndojitiuu of IkLr. Iklcnzics' recnit
mesdittions of the eiuploynieul of the hnrseK:hestTJut, the sycamore, or the balsa]
poplar and white fjoplar for the same puipotte. To the Tefbrenccs given L c. um
Organic Nature produced hy Man^s Interference. 347
it is that from so many quartei-s of the world we Lave more or-
less well - eatablislied histories of belts or cm-taius of trees
protecting: towns from malarious and anti-sanitary influences.
Secondly, though doubt niny be raised {e.g. by M. .l.Uellucci
dt. ' Atlionauim,' March 14, 1874, p. 3(j0) as to the giving oft' by
trees of ozone into the air, there can be no doubt as to another
mechanical eft'ect besides the one already dwelt upon in the way
of breaking the force and the fall of raindrops, and thereby
preventing, pro iantOf the over-rapid flowing away of such raiu
and the over-violent washing away of the soil. Simple as this
action is, it is, when coupled with the action of the roota and
their spongioles tu which it gives a fairer chance of coming into
play, one of the most important which a tree in leaf exercises.
Finely divitled rain sinks into the soil, whilst rain which falls
in larger masses runs ofl" and forms torrents. The roots making
up an interlacing fibrillar mass by their multitudinous divisions,
entangle and detain the moisture which comes to them in
capillary columns ; and from the loaded sjiongo which they
thus como to represent, they dole or issue out in rations the
supplies necessary for keeping springs and streams iu constant
and perennial volume.*
It is, I must say, a considerable marvel that upon a third
function of that part of a tree which man can affect, either by
his own bands or through the intermediation of his domestic
animals with tlie greatest results in the way of mischief at the
least cost of labour to himself, so much room for dispute and
doubt should still be left open by the botunists. Lpon this
be adtled, aa Hpcftlring in tlio same wnw, Hfoijuerel, ' Mem. Institut,' xxxv., I866»j
p. 444, and Uumlin, ' Geographic et i>tiitiHtinue Me<licales,' vol. i. \). 219. Muc"
has been written Ly the two last-nnnied writers on tlie electrical action of treeai'
1 will ijuute thct following w^nteuces from the latter of the two, I. c, " Enfiii le
delxjisemeiit <lo!t etro coiisi(l(?re oomme equivalvnt it la tlentruction d'uii tiombre
de pamtonnorres egal an nombre d'arbrcis qn'on abat ; c'est la modificutioQ de,
I'fitut electjiqiie do tout un pays ; c'eiit racouniulation d'un des c'leruenta indii
pensubleH a la formation Ac la grclc dann uno localitc oil d'ubord cet clement sq
oiBHipait iDcvitublcmcnt pur raction siloneit^'uso et iBccsaante de^ arbrca. Lea
oboervationg vieniuuit a I'appni de oeti deductions tbe'oriques."
• It ia of course jxissible to c-xaggernto, tho preventive power of arboriculture, aa
of other beneficial o^nciea. If a uiouutuin is sufficiently high, ami can be blown
upon by at« breezes as yet uodcprivcd of Uic full iiro|K>rtion of moisture which a
warm latitude can (»ivo them, you will bnve /roin thne to lime destructive toTrcnts
nuhiug do^vn their sides, however well wooded they may be. But what is an
oooaaional oceurreuce only in a well wiMxled mouutuiiious couutry, is a very common
one in & district whero the charcoal buruer, Iho wood mcrchunt, and the goat,
have been allowed to have their waiiteFiil will uuchecked. Homer's Huob, II. li, j
492—195, show that however stiiking tho pbenomcTioii he describes, it waa nercT" ]
thcleas not eo very common aa the complaiiUs with which so many of the lieporti i
I have referred to pmve it to be now iu so many conntriea in Kurope and
elsewhere.
348 RoLLESTOy on Modifications of tJte External Aspects of
third fuuction of the leaves, their power as evaporators, thj
most important perhaps of all their I'linctions, both as regarc'
the tree's own ecuiioniy ami as re.sjanls ours, it is little less thi
raarvellous tliat u Professor of Uutiuiy should have to writ<
thus in 1875. Professor Kocli, however (' Vurlesuiigen iiber dii
DeudroIofficV 1875, p. 2S-lj, fullowiD^ Eberniayer, /. c, p. 18<
says: "The question of the evaporation of water through tlu
tissues of a plaut is very like the rjuestion in medicine of th<
treatment of diseases. Tlio more there is written about
disease, and the in<jre we have so-called infallible reniedic
rt'oouunetuKd for it one after the other, tJie less do we get of
any real kuowied^e of it. There ia scureely a single point in
the life of a ]ilant on which so much, and in<leed often so much
that is intrinsically self-contradictory, can be specified as having
been written, as this [loint of evaporation. Whilst Unger, an<
indeed eertijinly with right on his side, owns that a surface oj
(so much V) water gives oft" by eva[)oration three times as mud
as (nn equid surface of?) a tree, Bchleiden says that ou tharj
contrary the tree gives off three times as much as the opei
surface of water." *
It is trae that Professor Koch goes on to say that nevertheless,!
as Sachs also lias said, siicli observations and tlie results deduct
from them iuive a scientific value. As it seems to me, thej
have not only a scieutiiic value, as all observations which ar«
reducible to weights and metisures have, but that they havi
also a very distinctly appreciable practical value and applii
ability.
Anybody who will read the account given by my friend tbi
Rev. Richard Abbay in ' Nature,' May 18, L876, of the formatioi
of a lake in a district in Australia, 150 miles from Sydney^
and 2U0U' alove the level of the sea, eubsequently to the deJ
structiou of the wixxJlandti round about a particular area of
depression, will bo convinced that this occupation by water of
what had been habitable land was not only posterior to, bul'
caused by, the disibresting operations of the various agent
• The Gtrinun words, wliioh I linTe not uttcmptwl to tmnBlate quite lit
are as follows: —
" Mit tlix Vordunstiing dcs Waasera durcli die Pflfinzc geht e«, trio in
Mtdizin niit din KianklK'itun. Jc meiir iilxT i;ino Kruiikheit geachricbeii
and je melir iiiirh uriJ niicti sofjcnaDnto iintructliclii- MitU-l tiiipfohlen wiirdeu, UJ
80 weiiiger iat sie erkaunt. Kaiim mijclito iiber t-iuuu Gc;:;euatnrid iiu lelx'udell
rnunzu to vii'l, uiid zwiir oft utttaiidfT wifiiirspni-hfiulfis gi'soliriobcii wonld
sciti, aU iii)iT dio Verdun.Htuiig. U'lilinnid Ung:t'r, uiid zwur wold mit Heciit
liehiuiptet, daiw tine WHancTflticlie drei Mat so viel vcrduuB-tet, ala der Baum, s»g
SL-lilridoTi, da«8 uiijgc'kchrt dioser drei Mai so viel vcrdunalo uls die olT
WuBsc-itliiche."
Organic Nature produced by Mans Interference. 349
spectfietl, namely, squatters, grubs, cattle, sbeop and opos^nms,
not imairk'd by (lisensc of the- trees themselves. The surphis ot"
water Ibrming the hxkc corresponds to the enormous quantita-
tive disproportion between tno evaporatinq; surface whieh it
exposes when thng collected, and that which it would have
exposed when dispersed througli all the myriads of leaves which
mail and liis allies had destroyed.* It is not, however, neces-
sary to take such a long voyage as that to Sydney to get an
unraistnkeable ilhistrution of the evaporating power of leaves.
This power can be illustrated e contrario by ubscrving the cou-
stmctioa on the treeless Yorkshire or other English wolds of
the perennial so-called " di'wpouds." It is not even necessary
to travel as far as the nearest down or wold to make this obser-
vatJOD. and fill in the necessary (Jetails as to extent of feeding
ground to catch, an<J puddled ground to hold, the rainfall. A
Terv simple experiment with plants no farther to fetch than
cabbages, will show, as Professor Welliugtoa Gray tells us {I. c.
awpra, p. 10), that3U0O square, inches of their succulent leaves
will give olT iis much a-s a pint of uater per diem.
It may, however, be fairly ubjected that the rate of evapora-
tion observable in an isolated mass of loaves, or in a single
isolated tree, does not give us a measure of the mte at which
the same process will go on in a wood when the exposed and
evaporating surface is relatively so much smaller. And this
difliculty, whieli lies in the geometrical nature of the case, may
account for the great discrepancies in the estimates which
various writera have given of the amount of watery vapour
given off by masses of wood.t
* See also EWennayer, /. c. pp. 184, 1S5.
t Professor PfuU", for csamiilo \cit. Ebermaycr, 2. c, p, 18G), pivos us 120 kilo-
cnunmes as Iho cntiru amount cn'ti}HirntL>d by ati oiik with TOO.UOO leuvea, each of
s squRic surface of 2325 djiIK dnring the periorl from Miiy 18 to Octnlx-r 24.
Vaillant (ci<. I'twt) givea tho amount of watery vapour piven off by an ouk of
21 iiii'trc'ij huiglit aiul 263 metres girth ut a iieight of 1 metre obove the gruiuid,
a& liO(JO kilogmmnns ou u line day.
Ilartig (<•<■<. ihid.), tlio uuthorof a ' Lc»hrbudi fiirForster,' Stuttgart, 1861, colcu-
latfn that a Ctcrioan morgeii (— 2-3S95 acred), curryin;; a thnuannd treca of nine
diflerent kinda of conifers and broad-lmvod trwa of twenty years planting, exhales
daily during the period ofTcyetation at 3(M>0 pnuuds weight of water.
Profeasor Preatwicli, in hid ' Wutcr-benrin-j Strata,' 1S51, p. US, gives u.s ns au
mtininto for tho amount of watery vapour given ofT by tbo leaves of "a tree of
Bverago size" two aud a lialf gallons per diem.
Mr. Lawea (cH. in loc.), from ' Juiinml of liorticultuml SocLcly,' vnt. v. pt. i.,
1850, givea lu as a foundation for u.u estiuiatoof tho relutiuna between the amoant
of water taken in by vegetable organiHrna, with tho matters it held in 8<jI«tion,
and tho solid residue thence extracted and retained by the plants for its uses or
for oure, a stateiuent to tho elfeet that three plants of wheat or hurley gave off
1 J gallon, 250 grains of water for evei7 grain of solid residue in the adult plant.
Hellriegel, on the other hand \cit. Eboriuaycr, I. c. i>. 187), givea us aa Ids
350 EoLLESTON on Modifcations of the External Aspects of
It must, however, be allowed that the cases in which tt
cutting down of trees, and the consequent putting into abeyanc
of tlie iuuctions of their leaves, have been followed by ill
drying up of apriups, are much more numerous, even if they ai
not better established, than those iu which the reverse eflV
has been recorded, as by JMr. Abbay, The explanation of
apparently self-antagonisiug or capricious operation of the sai
primary cause is not far to seek. When a tree is cut down, tl
area once protected by its leaves is exposed to the uncount«:'i
acted action uf the summer sun, and rainfall may run off
when thus hardenetl, just as it runs off an imperfectly tha\v<
surface in the spring, or may sink away into chinks and tissui
which that exposure may, and very often dues, produce, and
cither case sueii rainfall is lost to the summer-dried fountaii
If the water thus thrown upon the surface, thus modified, line
its way into a basin properly proportioned as to cubicnl, as U
square area, and as to water-holding power, we may have ai
lalie formed, as in the ease related above by Mr. Abbay. It is,
of course, more usual to find one or other, or two or all, of.,
these favourable conditions wanting, and in the more numeroii
class of cases we timl that the diminution of wood and thi
diminution of water go hand in hand. I would go further thar
this, and aver that tho diminution of wood and the dimir
nution of water in the shape of ice may not only also go h&nc
in hand, but may also be connected as cause and effect. M,l
Viollet-le-Duc, in his debghtful work on ' Mont Blanc,' 1877J
(translated by B. Bncknall, pp. 341, 353), tells us that
'"although the glaciers have been tending to diminish for the
last forty years in a somewhat rapid ratio, which ivould seem to^
indicate an elevation of the mean t(?mperature, the forests are
quitting the heights where they still lingered, to take a lower
position. la there any connection between these two results ?
\Ye shall not endeavour to solve the problem." It is a little
presumptuous to address one's self to it after this deterrent
warning. Still M. Viollet-le-Duc has {L c. pp. 339, 377) shown
us that the destruction of the forests is abundantly explained
irrespectively of any inorganic agency by t!ie mischievonfJ
action of man working as a goatheixl and a woodcutter,
descriptions of these operations are couched in language of res
pathos and eloquence, but scientifically it shows us that w€
need not look for any other cause for the disappearance
CTtimato that for tlio production of 1 lb, of dry barlejcoma, 700 lb«. of «
inrlusivo of the wnter evtipumted from thei Boil, aro all tlml ia noeossnry, and
other certalia tiavc thoir demnu'ld limikd witiiin aouitwbut iiimiJar propor
Jnlercalla videa humani commodii.
I
9
Organic Nature produceti by Mans Interference. 351
shrinking yf the limits of the forests. Tiie spruces and the
lurches, for such arc the trees, being thus destroyed by the
" esseutially destructive power" of raau, how can their destruc-
tion be shown to entail the diminution of the glacier? I think
the loss of these trees as evaporntinfr ageneios may be taken as
a vera ac sujjiciens causa for the diminution. A great deal of
great interest lias been written * upon the difference in the
amount of watery vapour given off" by various trees and by the
cerealio, •*vhich last, ancl amongst which last, as might be
expected from their deep roots and the amount of their
Stofficechsel, wheat-plants stand quantitatively pre-eminent. But
for our present purpose it is suflicient to jmint out that the rays
wliii'h strike on the mass of a glacier are, to say nothing of the
other conditions of disadvantage whicli such a mass opposes to
them, enornmusly outnumbered by the rays which strike on the
needle-shaped leaves of an adjacent wood of ordinary acreage,
made up of such trees as tiio spruce or the larch ; and the vapoi
which is thus set free into the entire circumambient atmosphei
alike of glacier and of woofl, {icts most potently in several ways
in the direction of saving the glacier from wasting.
On the other hand, great as the intliieuco of the evaporating
power of trees and forests may be shown to be hi some direc-
tions, it is possible enough to overrate it as regards such more
than localised matters as the increase of the rainfall. " It is,"
says Dr. Brandis ('Ocean Highways,' Oct. 1872, p. 204), "a
widely spread notion, entertained by many writers who are
competent to judge, that forests increase the rainfall, and that
the denudation of a country in a wai'm climate diminishes its
moisture. Much of what is known regarding the liistory and
the present state of the countries nnind the Mediterranean
Beems to support this theory, but it has not yet been established
by conclusive evidence." The important point seems to be thav
in moimtmns this intlnence may count for something consider-
able, whilst in the plains, howsoever well wooded, trees can act
only as do other good radiators in the way of precipitating not
wind-borne moving vapour, but simjily dew.
Mr. N. A. Ualzell, in the Report on the Sind Forest for
1859-18ti0, observes (par. 31) : " Although it would be too hardy
an assertion to say that tlie existence of forests in Sind causes
any increase in the fall of rain, they certainly do so on the
summits and tops of mountains ;" and par. 35 : " In enumerating
the benefits derived from forests, I make here no use of the fact
that forests attract rain-clouds, because I do not tliink it appli-
352 KoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspecia of
cable to plains, and lecause it is not yet clear that causes
not mistaken for effects, tliat is, wtietlier it is the rain produt
forests, or forests which prodjice rain ; and certaiidy no inht
bitant of Sind would consitler it legitimate to decide tiu
because a country is covered \\ith wood, therefore it is wet,^
It is satisfactory to be able to add that tlie resnlt of Profes
Ebenuayor's prolonged observations in Bavaria has brought
him to the same coiiclusioiis as those of Dr. Dalzoll, carried ou
in the very alien surroundings of 8iiul. Dr. Eljcrmayer's woi
on this subject, used in summing up the restrlts of his researche
are (/. c, p. 202) : *' Auf Urniul unserer Untersuchuugen, glaubed
var daher hesuchtigt zu sein anuehraen zu diirfen, dass
Ebeiien von gleichern allgeuieioeu Ctmrakter der Eintlusg d(
Waldes auf dio licgenmeiigo jedetifalls schr gering ist, und di
or auch auf dieproccniische Kegenvertheilung kcine Einwirkun^
hat, Mit der Erliel)iirig Uber die Meeresoherfliiche niuinit die
Bedeutung des "VValdes beziighch seines Eintlusses auf die Re-_
genmenge zu, er hat desshalh im Gebirge einen grossereu Wei
ttls im Ebenen. Ira tSommerhalbjahr ist die Eiowirkung dt
Waldes aufdie Regeumenge viel grosser als im WinterhalVjjahr.l
VVhiitcver the jihysical principles involved are, anybody maj
find biautifal illustiations of theni, who will observe in
mountainous district how —
or how
'* The Hwiiiimiiii; \'ft])our elopeu athwart IJie glen.
Puts forth nil urm ond crwpa from pino to pine,
And loitera «]owly drawn," •
"The light cloud smoulders on tho summer crag."t
recollecting that the phrase "Rauchen der Walder" is use
lor the similar phenomenon wlien pmduced by trees, or wh<
will linally in a Juwlaud or other country stand and study th^
frost as it hangs itself on to such a tree as tiie birch often long
before it has iM^gun to whiten the ground around it.
[tSince writing as above, the ' Observations Meteorologiques
faites de 1877-1878,' by M. Fautrat, published by the French
" Ministere de I'Agriculture et du Commerce : Administration
des Forcts," 1878, have come into my hands. This author,
M'ith the results of M. Mathieu's eleven years' observations at
Nancy (for which his *Me'teorologie Comparee Agricolo et
Forestiere,' published under the same auspices, February 1878)j
before him, as also the results of four years* observations in the
I'orcst of Hnlntte, and of three years in the pine-woods
ErmcnonviUe, has come to the following conclusions.
• Tcnayson, ' CEnone,'
t Tennyson, • Edwin Jlorris.*
Organic Nature prorluced by MaiCs Interftrence^ 353
i. Tliat whea it raius more rain falla over a wooded than
over a non-wooded area, and that wldlst trees of all kinds
possess tho powers of condensing vapour, broad-leaved trees
produce less effect than is pi-oduced by tho narrow-leavetl
Coniferaa (pp. 14 and 10).
ii. That us re;^ard8 tliu hygrometrie condition of the air, the
air over a wooded arwi eojitains more watery vapcmr (p. IS)
than an unwooded aren, but that tho conifera? Iiave more
watery vapour in their circuinarabicnt atmosphere than the
broad-leaved trees. M. Fautrat expresses, or rather expands,
this fact in the foUowinp; words: — ''If the vapour dissolved in
tho air was visible as are mists, we should see the forest-? sur-
rountlfd with a vast screen of moisture, an<l around the
Coniferte this envelope would be more marked than over the
broad-leaved trees. What is tho source of this vapour? Does
it come from tho soil; is it the result of evaporation from
the leaves, or is it duo in the Coniferto to the action of the
thousands of points which the whorls of their leaves <levelop
every year ? 'Slds is a complex quedion which the present data
of physical science do not emihle ns to answer. Ona thing one
can say, and tiiat is that tho transjiiratioa of the leaves cannot
by itself produce this ])henomenon. For, as a matter of fact,
the transpiration in Couiferss is less active than it ia in broad-
leaved trees. Tliis fact has been made clear by M. Grandeau
in his ' EHsats historiques et critiques BUr la Theorio do la
Nutrition.' (M. Ftuitrat might have added, "as also by Hales
cit. Boiissingault, 'Ann. Chim. ot Phys.' s6r. v, torn. xiii. 187S,
p. 314, and Sachs, 'Iliuidbuch Exp. I'hysiologio Pflanzen,' 1865,
p. 225.") It then follows that if the vnpour of water dissolved
in such great abundance in the atmo.sphere enveloping the
pines was the result of the evaporatitui of the trees, this
phenomenon ought to be much more striking over the mass
made uj) by the broa<l-loaved trees than in that made up by the
Coniferre, whilst observation shows that exactly the contrary is
the actual fact. We must therefore ascribe to tiie soil and to
other unknown cavses this remarlcable property which pines have
of attracting watery vapour." If it had appear^'d from j^l.Fjuitrat's
tables that this excess of watery vapour was more marked in
rainy than in dry times, it would have been easy to explain tho
fact by figaring to ourselves the all but infinite area which tho
fine films of water clotliing every needle-shaped leaf of a
coniferous tree would make up and ofier for evaporation.
For tho leaves of our common Couiferffi wot readily ; and it is
owing to this property I apprehend that tliey iutercejit &s
much as one-half the rain which falls ujion them before it
VOL. XLIX. 'L Js.
354 RoLLESTON 071 Modificaiions of the External Aspects of
He
reaches the ground, whilst brond-leaved trees intercept
one-third. But, as it ajij^ears, the Coniferte possess the aj^
metric advantage independently of the rainfall. And I hai
to say that the phenomenon in question needing, a^i it tht
confessedly does, some additional explanation besides ane
beyond that which our usually stci^epted vi«'W8 furnish, appears j
to me to become nioro intelli«:jible by reference to the tlieoi^H
as to *' The Cuusid of Kuin aiul its Allied Plienoniena," whic^H
was put before the world in 183t>, and subsequently published
in a separate volume twenty years later by Mr. G. A. Row«
This theory may I think be stated as follows, the author of
having slightly modified it in 1872, and restated it in a 'Bri
Ifesay on Meteorulogiiml Phenomena,' published in 1875, He
supposes that the molecules of watery vapour are completely
enveloped in a coating of electricity to which they owe the
buoyancy. This coating and this buoyancy he supposes
increase and decrease in ratio witli tlie temj)erature of tlief
molecules. Efficient conduction therefore of electricity will snlhoe
on this theory to preL^ipitato watery Viij>onr either as rain, <^^d
as dew, or as mist. And I apprehend that Mr. Rowell wouI^H
in accordance with his own theory, look upon a fir-tree wheii
shrouded, as M. Fautrat has described it, with a differentially
thick envelope of vapour, as having thus clothed itself by
virtue of the attractive etTect of its myriad jtoints. For
electricity tending constantly to an equal <li»tribution, so fast
as the surcharge of electricity on the particles of vapour nearest
the trees was carried away, so fast would tlie balance be rei
dressed by su|)ply from the particles more distally placed.
tlius in accordance with this theory, particles of watery vapo'
would be constantly setting in the direction of the conduc '
and attracting leaves and twigs, Becquerel's view, already
quoted, according to which tho plague of hail which has 9o
often • been ol.iserved to follow upon the destruction of the
woods of a country, is to be ascribed to the loss of the ligjht^
ning-conductors which the cut-down trees represented
standing, and to the absence consequently of the in
* See a really patbctic occouut of tLis (j^iven as baring been prodaoed dar
his Heven years* ubscnce from TliiiriuKeii by Fisolitr at p. 1G4 uf hia cbftrmina
'Beitriige zur phyeiBchen Gpogr^p')'*^ *J"r MitU^lineprlaiuIcr,' 1877. Ilaiu tak
hail-uturmB Lad Ik'Cmiijo frequoot, und tho fiiiLiag brook bad dboppoorod togvtlut
witli tlio worn! of his boyhood, lie adda: —
" Icb will gewi.sa dumit nicht sitjeii, daHS in joiicn ^i. - - ' ' 'rt ni
ein Troffebeii Itepeii wciiiger fiiUe uf* friihir, obwol audi moa
wahrscheinlich ist, alwr der Vcrtlitikr imd Bewnlirer >! . i. . ..liffke
und 80 konnen localo Ursnclitn zeitweiliij Wjrkung halion, die in 8ud-
allgcuieiuen kosniiciclieu, al>er durrb iirtliclio Tcrsttiirkteii zn zusdireiben e
wurde recbt lebbaft an SicOieo eriuncit, aue dem icb oben heimkehrtc"
irest
poiM
3ad^^
Organic Nature produced by Man^t Interference. 355
thongbi insensible dissipating agency of the trees, appear to me
to sliuw that be at least would have allowed that Mr. Howell's
tbeory oontains some, at least, of the elements of the true and
complete tbeory uf rain. It is not for me to meddle with
meiiioirs in wliieli neither living animal nor living vegetable
organisms are concerned, otherwise I might have referred to
Ijord Kayleigh's j>aiier in 'The Proceedings of the Koyal
Society,' 'March 13th, 1S70, pp. 40G, -iOih But as regards
the views they brought forward, and to a considerable extent
as regards the whole ouestion, I scarcely feel myself to bo in
a position to give any decided ^jpiuion.
That trees, like otlier bi-nellceut agencies, do not fail to
benefit themselves whilst thus benefiting the world at large,
may be well gathered from the following passage from Professor
Grandcau's work now in course of publication, " Chimie et
Physiologie appliquees a TAgricuUnre et a la Sylviculture,
1879, Pt. I, la nutrition do la plan to," In summing up at
p. 34U the results of liis experiments, and after saying that the
simplest and at the same time the best way of isolating a plant
for purposes of experiment from the action of electricity, is to
place it either under a metallic cage with large meshes, or
in the perimeter of a tree ; M. Grandea\i proceeds as follows :
'* 2" Les veg^taux et en purticulier les arbres, soutirent a leur
proiit I'clectricite atraosplierique et isolont aussi completement
cju'une cage metalliqne la plaute qu'ils domiuent.
"o" L'isohition produite par un arbre eleve peut s'etendre
notablement au deJa du perimetre foliace de I'arbre.
"4° Une planto soustrait.*; a I'inHuence de I'electricite
atmosphiriquo subit, dans son evolution et dans son devoloppe-
mcut, UE retard et une diminution tres notables. Dans mes
experiences, les quantites de subst«mce vivante produite par
les vegetaux isoles ont ele inf^rieures de 30 h 50 \\ lOU a la
]troduction a I'air libre. La trausformation du protoplasme
chlorpliyllieu en glucose, en amidon, etc., parait etre tout
particulieremeut inlluencee par 1 olectricite atmospherique.
" 5" La floraistm et la fructilicatiun subisseut des modifica-
tions non moins graudes ; sous cugo isolaute et sous les arbres,
le uombre des fleurs, des fruits et le poids des graines ont 6tl^
inf^rieurs de 40 a 50 p. 100. L'arret dans I'assimilatiou
semble porter tout d'abord sur Telaboration dea princijws
hydrocarboues.
*' G^' Lo taux centesimal tie substance secho et le taux des
cendres sent plus elev4s en I'absence de lY'lectrieite, les
T^g^taox qui croisi^ut hors cage s'^tant coustamraent montres
2 A 2
356 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspects of
plus riche en eau et plus pauvres en matieres minerales que la
planfe de meme espece sous cafje isolnnte." ~
M. Cell's udaptation of our of 8ir W. Tliomson's apparatn;;
as an " Appareil pour exp6rinienter I'uction de Telectrioite
les plantes vivantes," cit. and figured by M. Grandcau in h
from * Annales de Chimie et de Physique,' ser. v. torn, xt
October 187S, is well worthy of ins|iection in this connection-]'
The next j)art of my Lecture will bo devoted to showing bv_
the aid of three maps and oue statistical table, how greatly nil
has modified the external aspect of the world lie lives in
the introduction into the several parts of it of cultivated plai
and domestic animals, previously, of course, unlniown oven
the wild state, to such areas of its surface. The maps by the
colours show the areas on which the parent stocks of the mc
valuable and uo^v mo&t widely spread of the^e acquisitions havj
with nmre or loss uf a|)pr(>ach to demonstration, been showij
be indi;4i.'nuus. The slioil talde of statistics tells you in ii
second line that one-half of all of them came from oue singi
"quarter" of the globe, or in the latignago of modern zoo«
graphers from one single zoological " region." The table
the maps taheu together show us hosv largely some quarters
the glolte have been beuefi[e<l by bon-owing from otners, or ii
the hingiiage of my subject, how largely they have be
modilied by man's interference.
The first of these maps is very closely similar to the
which shows on Mercator's projection tbe now more or h
generally accepted zoogeogrnphical regions of the eartiil
surface, the Pata'arctic, to wit, the Ethiopian, the Oriental, ll
Austraiinn, and the two regions of tho New World, the Nearcl
Aud the Neotropical ; as given liy Jlr. iSelater, and in Wallacfti
great work on Geographical Distribution.
The second of these maps is an enlargement of that given
Professor Huxley in tho ' Journal of the Ethnological Societ
of London,' June 7th. 1870, to illustrate and embody
views on the distribution of the jirincipal nioditicalious
mankind. This map, besides other useful purposes, serve
epecially that of limiting ofl", by a special colouration,
particular portion of tlie vast Pahearctic region which
specially important to the subject in hand, as it was eithi
aetualiy upon it, or upon regions chwely adjacent to it withij
that region, that the parent stocks of the moiety of our cull'
vated jdants and domesticated animals may cither bo four
still living or may reasonably bt; supposed to have exists
formerly. The particular subdivision of tho Pala'arctic Kegic
^
I
'11 coloured in i
so as to indicate tliat n\
vuriety of our spocies was living not iu perfect purity of stoclc,
but more or less peacefully intermingled with the Mongoloid
jmd with his " Xantbochroic "or fair-white varieties. The area
thus occupied occupies itself on the map a district something
of the sluijie of a tuning-fork, the two arms of wlii<'h wouLl
form the uoi them and soiUherri honridnries of the Jlediterrauean
eastward from the longitudes of Alhnnia and Tripoli; and
would be carried by a broad biise extending from the Caucasus
over Syria and a part of north-west Arabia to the Ited Sen,
whilst its stem would cover Kurdistan, Khorassau, and North
Persia, and end by bifurcating at a spot near Feshawur. The im-
porUmco of this area is illustrated by the fact that a region very
closely corresponding, if not quite coincident with it, is marked
out upon quite diflerent principles in the next map. A co-
incidence of much less intricacy, and therefore of much less
cogency, though still not without a certain curious significance,
is furnished to us by the fact that a certain island of blue
colour, placed by Professor Huxley in the '■ Dark Continent "
of Africa to indicate the presence in Upper Egy[)t, Nubia, and
Abyssinia, of some traces of the xVustralioid type, correspoJids
wit!i the area in that continent whence most or all of her few
gifts of valuable cultivated plants and valuable domesticated
auinmla have come to us, viz., the cotton plant ; and, very pro-
bably, the cUite-palm ; the ass, from the native stock Atn'nus
tseniojHut; and the cat, from the native stock Felin manictilata.
Of the two arms, into which tho eastward end of this area
bifurcates, the upper or northward one, would correspond with
the Kuenluu ran^ej and the southward with the Himalayas;
Ladak, and part of the table-land of Thibet, lying between
tliem. It is in the Kueulun range that Jade mines are found.
The third map, being one of Johnston's charts of the World
on blank Mercator's Projection, has hecn coloured *so as to
illustrate the following facts iu the distribution of certain plants
and certain minerals connected with the ancient development
and subsequent progress of Imniau civilisation. One region is
coloured as it is iu the ' Plant egeographisk Atlas,' tav. ii., of
Professor Schouw, Copenhagen, 1824, so as to show (he distrilu-
tion of the Vid'a vitlfera oyer the countries forming tho northern
and southern chores of the Mediterranean and Black Seas, over
Asia Minor, Palestine, and Mesopotamia, over the lowlands both
of Astrakhan and Turan, and along the southern slopes of the
Himalayas, so as to end at tho eastern extremity of that chain
In nearly the same latitude as that eastern extremity, and
858 RoLLESTOTT on Modifications of the External Aspeett qf
about in the same longitudinal Hue as the long axis of t
Peninsula of Malacca, a spot of another colour marks t!
situation uf the amber mines of Burmah,* while four spots
yet a third colour iu British Burmah, Banca,t Celeb^> an
Kliorassan,^ respectively indicate localities in which copper and |
tin are still found in such proximity to each other and in such
accessible abundance as to suggest that it is not improbable ,
that in some one of those districts prehistoric man may have
come upon the invention ni" bronze. A fourth colour marks the I
position of the Kueulun Jado mine8,§ whence, in still earlier
than bronze times, stone weapons may with great proba!
be supposed to have been procured by msm before be migi i
into the jacleless regions westward. ^M
The New World was coloured as it is in Schouw's tav. viii. I. r.J^
to show the area of distribution of the Cactacea.*, a region com- ,
prehending iSouth America north of the Tropic uf Capricorn, the
Isthmus ul' Panama, the Puuinsulu of CalifoiuiH up to 30^ N. bit,, |
the W^st Indian Archipelago, the nortljern shores of the Gnlf
of Mexico, and the strip of gulfstream-washed North American
coast between the Allegbanics and the Atlantic up to about
40^ MT. lat. From this area more than 2o per cent, of all our
cultivated plants have been iirocured, as the annexed table
shows; and, of course, since the time of Columbus,
Tliis table (bused, so iar as it deals with the vegetable
kingdom, mainly upon De CandoUe's ' Geographie Botaniqu
pp. [i8G-!J87) gives approximatively the proportions in whici
the several " regions " of the globe established by that phyto-
geographer and by several zoogeographers, have coutributivl
to make up the lists of such cultivatt^d jdauts and domestical. J
animals respectively as are of considerable, even if not alwa
of cosmopolitan, importance.
• For the Amlicr mines oF Barmah sen Bulfoor's ' Indian Cyclopjodl*,' iLi
1871: iiud Keith JoliiiKtori's ' Unval Atlim,' nuip 28, in htro hit. 2tr 20'.
t Fur the existiMicu of tin toj;etlior willi ccjijwr in Burniuh see Mortil
' He'rue d'Autkroiologie/ i. 187.i, p. 653.
X For the Bimilar collocation of tho two metala which when combiued
bronze iu Kliomssiui and t'lscwLcrc iu Cetitinil Aaia south of the Ciwpian,
T. Raer, ' Arcliiv fiir Anthro}M)logit\' ix. 4, p, 2G2. 1877. '\Vg know from the t
irrffmgable autlinrity, Bulletin Acnd. Sci- St. Petershourg, tnm. xvii. p. 417-
185U, and toia. i., IH(H). pp. 3.1-37, that tin- dnte-pMbn is still roprcsenttd a litll
to the mirth *>f those dcpusits of tin and copper, nt Hari, in the as yet Petbil
province of I^fazuudcrau on tho HOittli shurc of llm Cu^piaii. This tree is suppoted
to baTe iMicn carried thither, as to so many other places, by the Arabe dtuiu^ ttK '
career of conijufst, wljieli cnntTngts to bucIi advantago OBd in so many wayBtRJ
that of other Mussulmuii citnqucrors.
§ For an niH^niuit of tho Jnde mines in the Kuenltm Range »ce Cajl
'Mocniillan's MaRm/iiie,* October 1871; and for Jade gonertdly, Itr '
' Popular bcience Boview,' October 1879.
Orfjanic Nature produced by MarHs Interference. 359
0/ (apjproxiwaiivdif) 160 Cultivated
Plants,
Of (approximaiively) 21
Domestic Mammals.
IVrcent,
I'er cent.
The Palienrctic species aro
. 50
50 aro PaUearctic.
„ Oritntal.
25
14 „ Oriental.
„ Afrioui
25
14 „ African.
„ N*«rctic
2-5
0 „ Nearctic.
„ Ncotro jical
25
14 „ Neotropical.
,, Autitniliau
0
0 „ Auslraliiiu.
Of some of the great facts which these maps and this table
ptit before you, half diagraiumatically, the anthropologists,
zoologiste, and geographers* of the lost quarter of the last
* Fotlos, Betnichtnngen iilKT die BMcbaffonlioit der Gehirjfe : an Address
delivered Jan. 23, 1777. Zimmermann, ' Geogranhi'tcho Geschichte,' Bfl. i.
p. 114. 1778— Btl. iii. p. 250, 1783. Link, Die Urwelt nnd das Alterthuin,
i. p. 243«<v/y. 1»21.
There is iKrliaps no nned for nio to apologise for quoting the- exact Trords of
Fallaa's Dit«i'ourav, the lend so asi, iliough it appeared m two funiia, one German
the other Frenoli, within iv year of its being delivt-red, it ia not, I think, a very
common book. 'Hio ii*»ut« wLich I ijnote from \s tlmt of 1778, tho year iu which
his Snrw ISpeeii;* <,ltrium appcand, six years hitor than the year in which the
eccoucl volume of liis Spicilfijia vrith its wonderful Faticicuiut XI. was published.
Thf tliflieulty in retuliny; Pulla.i u tu utidiTstJiiid how his writings can bear the
dote itiey do. But he fthall spi^nk for himrif"lf: — "In den mittiigigen Thaleni
ditises altuii Landed muss man dua vnie Vatcrliiiid di'S mc-nach lichen Geechlochta
imd dc» WL'iascii Munai'hen aucheii, die von dort in panzcn Natiorien die jjliicklichen
Gegfnidi-n von i^bina, PcrBien nnd besoiiders Indien bcvolkert habon, dcssea
EinwohuiT iiacb deni allgenielnen GeKtundiii«8 uuter alien Natiouen die erst«n
geaitletou wurcu, hikI wo nmu vielleicbt <lie Stiunmwanselu der eraten Wpracheu
lu Asia nnd Europa aiichou muss. Belb.->t Tybct, oino der hoohaten Gcgenden
Asicna desson Einwohnt'r,ihrem Vnrgeben nwyh, von cincrCrt Aflbn welohe dieses
Land zuerat bcwohntem, abiitmniJien (mit welcho sie n^icli nhiiedtun einigo Achn-
licbkeit Imbon) Tyljct bat die Verfeinerung seiner Sitten jenem Ijciirem zn
danken, die- mis Indien diihin kameu." Pullud ad<L« ad u note tu this piissuge,
" Ich knnn iiicht umhin, hicr zu benierkcn, dass alle, so wuhl in den nordisohcn,
ols in den uiittiigigen LiiDdem von dem Mi-mti-hL-u zu Mausthieri-n i^uzitmte
Gattungen, in dun gemusta^tcn Erdstrichen des njittiuru Aiiien.4 urspriinglich wild
gefmideu wareii, das einige Karaeol au^gtmommen desaen bpyden Abartungen nur
in Africu gut Ibrtkonnnen." Pallas then procaedn to instance the wild ox, tho
bnfialo, the wild sboep. tho Bozoar goat and the Ibex, from a crossing of which ho
BuppOfii>> our common domestiu goat to have arisen ; the wild bour and, as 1 believe,
incorrectly, tlio wild cat { Frli» cntun), as being the parent stocks of their domesti-
cated nontesakfii, and having their original liomcH in tho mnuntaina which rx-eupy
Central Asia and ti part of Europe. He addit, " Dua zwcybuckelige Kumeel ist
in den groasen Wiiaten zwisohen Tybet und China noch wild vorhanden."
Prejevaldcy's "Prom Kulja across thu Tiun-Shun t« Lobnor" will be familiar in
its Kuglish translation to most of us; his ncouiint uf the wild enmel is not moro
intcroHting as compared with this remark of Prdlria' ttion in his aci'oimt, p. 38, of
thu devouring of apples and apricots on tlie northiro tilopea of Die Tinn-Shan by
wild boars, goats und ilecr, when conipan d with Touriu fort'.s words (' Voyage du
Levant,' Amsterdam. 1718, 4, t. 2, p. 129, cited by tho Bntnni.-*t Liidc. i. c, p. 234)
describing a eountry wbicli he viKittnl and fonnd tn bo " Ein l^and erftillt niit natiir-
liL-lien VS'einliorgen imd Uliatgitrten wo Nusabitume, Apriko6etibt^ume,I'tir8icbbtiume,
Birnhuumc und Apfelbdumc von SL-llMit wuchstn. Kr Bctxt binzu,muu kunu nicbt
zweifeln, dass hier oincr von den Theih-n Georgiens ist, wo, nach ^trabo, ullu
Artenvou Fruchtou in Ueberdusa sind, weicbe die Erdeohne Cultor henorbringt."
tOLLESTON on Modtjicatiom of tlte External Aspettt of
lusist
Asia
century au<l the first tbird of this harl po-ssessed themselve«j
mid following, at whatever dietfince, the great Pallas, thet
uixm the stren^^th of the claims of that jiortiou of Ceutrd
whence issue the great rivers Ganges and Indus, Tigri|
nnd Euphrate>% and which they speak of ns " den grosse
IJuekel Asiens," to he considered as th<j primitive home of man,
mainly as it vviis, aceordin;2: to them, the orij^inal home of
our domestic aniiuals and so many of our cultivated food-plant
These writers and discoverers slightly overstated their en
i\Iieu they said that all our domestic animals could he referred _
to parent stocks iuiligenous to that region, tliougli, as will be
shortly shown hereafter, it woukl have been Jittle beyond
the truth if, instead of saying ail the domestic animals
ahsoiubdy, they had said all the domestic animals which are
ahsolutehj xndispe)is(tUe to modern man'it comfort and progress.
But their cjise for tlu^ir particular thesis wttuld have been
greatly strcugtheiied if they h;id known that jade in the form
of stone impJemeuis had acc(>nipaiu<^d man together with the
goat into We-stfrn Europe, and was found no nearer to the
Swiss Lake Dwellings, tliau are tlif Kueulun mines pointed oi
on my map; if they had kuovvn that copper and tiu could ha^
been smelted together into bronze so readily either in Kborass
or in liurmah; if, to put however injudiuioiisly, my weakej
point last, they Imd also known that aiuber — sueh a frequei
accnmpnniinent of jireliistoric man — ulso hiy within easy reaci
of his curious hitnds in tliis latter country. But prehistoi
archicology has till lately made but little advance since ll
time of Lucretius. DeeandoSlo (' Hist, des Sciences et d«
Savants,' p. 2G3, 1873), indeed, classes it as a discovery as ue«
and as great as live others of the twenty or thirty years pre
vious to 1^73, viz., spectrum analysis, convertibility of force, tl
greater extent of glaciers in geoiogical times, natural selectioi
and the alternation of (animal) generations; and the writers
ferrcd to kuew not, and could not have known, the wliole stren^
of their position. As regards my jncseiit [turpose it is, in the
but little later days, superlkious to jtoint out how the <liscovei
of mines whence j ire-historic man must, or at least might, hai
furnished himself with his weapons, innili-mi'uts, and ornament
actually U[)tjn or along the same mouutaiu ranges, spurs, and
valleys in whieh he must, or at least might, have foand in
wild state the animals whieh ho has now around him as neci
Georgia lies some distance away from Lobtior, but botli alike lio well within
jtrinit mimiitniii s}'f>tKm with its outliers whifli is cnlUjil **A8ii«ii8 Bnckcl'*
tlie iitiier writerti, ud uLn 1 upprivbeud within tho iuudL<rn " t^tepptoDgubief*^
GriBel>acli.
I
Organic Nature produced hy Man*s Interference. 361
Fary and nuiversal elements in Iiin own social litV, bears npoii
tlio extent, us measdrod by latitude mid longitude n» well as
hy othei" {jraiigee, to wLicli the world has beeu moditicd by bis
migrations and inijjartations.
Let me now enumerate tlie twenty domesticated mammals
whicli we possess, and which fur practical purposes may be
taken as making up a tale of about twenty or twenty-one;
let me speeify which iimongst them belong, as regards their
origiij, to the PaL-earetie region, and to the restricted portion
of it tdready dwelt upon and defined, as tho maps show you ;
and thirdly, leaving considerations of locality and of number,
let me contrast the value of tho nine, ten, or eleven mammals
which man domesticated in that district with t5iat of the others
acquired from" or contributed by all the other regions of the
globe tidion together.
Our twenty -one chief dumosttcated mammals may bo enume-
rated in something like order of merit and necessity to us as
follows : tho dog, the cow, the slieep, the pig, the horse, the cat,
the goat, tho ass, the came3» the dromedary, the buffalo, the
alpaca, the vicugna, the reindeer, the j^ebu, the bauteng, the
yak, the ferret, the rabbit, the mongoose, and the gninea-pig,
omitting some few species the importance of which as being
locally limited to very small areas, and as consistingof individuals
numerically few, is too small to make it necessary to notice
them. Representativti-s of more than one-half of this list can
be fairly fdaimed by the Palfoarctic centre of creation as owing
their parentage to stocks native to its soil ; this lialf consisting
of the dog, the cow, the sheep, the pig, tho horse, the goat, the
camel, the dromedary, the reindeer, the ferret, and tlje rabbit.
1 have said "representatives" of one-half of this list because it
is more than probable that some of our breeds of domestic dogs
and of pigs may have bet-n reclaimed from wild parent-stocks
in other regions of the world. There can, however, be no
reasonable doubt that the great majority of the domestic breeds
known till comparatively recent times in Europe, of each of
those two animals, the <log and the pig, were drawn from paront-
stockB living in the Palfearctic liegion, and this is all that ia
necessary for my present argument.
* It is a curious ]ioint. in luythulngy tkAi, ao far fts my memory sorres me, no
god nor demigod filioulil Imvc tlie cntlit OHsigned him of hariug- domeitioaled
nuy imimai except thi.- LorBf. (Jf eourtc tliia fuct, if fact it be, uhowa two tbiagB
with nioro or leim probnbility,- firstly, namdy — tliat these acnuinitioua were anado
in vury far-<iff times, not merely in " tho agon before morality but in those much
earlitr oned, " the uges before history ;" uiid nwondly, that tho nc<|uiciitioii of tho
horse waa made iii hitcr Uuy^ thau thu dumchticatiou of the other auiiuahi la
qoention.
I
l62 RoLLESTOK on Moatjicahma of the External Aspects
As regards the ox, the sheep, the horse, aud the goat, I cannot
think that with our present knowledge of zoogeography th*
can be any question that their parent-stocks were rauei
animals ; and I am fartlier prepared to express my belief ti
further investigation will render it highly probable that it
in that particuhir though very exteiiaive part of the Pala^ar
Region spoken of vaguely as " Asieiis Bnckel," or " Hoch Asit
and comprehending portions of all the great mountain ranges from
the Caucasus proper to the northern side of the Hindoo Kc
and from the Taurus to the Altai Mountains, that these sevei
parent-stocks were brought imdor the influence of domesticatic
WiJd animals are still to be found in some one or other or
several spots witliin that area from which we have no d prii
reason for doubting that man might in the course of ages hai
educed the three last-named of the four domestic animals, the
ox, the sheep, the horse, and the goat ; and that a wild ox
existed in the regions in which the Old Testament writers lived,
not only their writings, hut the Assyrian sculptures, aud not
only the Assyrian scuiptures, but geological remains testify.
The case, however, for the ox, having been iirst domesticated
in Central Asia, is the weakest of the four, and it may be well
to take it Iirst. The Rev. Wm. Houghton has in his memoir
on the domestic mammalia of the Assyrian sculptures (' TruDg.
8oc. BibL Archeology,' v. i.,st, i., p. 2, 187C, aud ibid. 1877, p. 54)
given Us a very npirited drawing from one of tiie .Vssvrian
sculptures representing the hunting and the killing of the' wild
ox. What is of special value in tliis sculpture is for our purpose
the presence between the shoulder-blades of a hump, wliich is
present in so many other of the larger liumimuitia, but which,
as Mr, Houghton remarks, reminds us of the Indian zebu, aud
of the fact that there are no specific diflerences between tht'se
two oxen underlying their soft parts. There can be no doubt
tbat the figure is intended to represent a wild animal. The
Accadians, who were in the habit of gi\'in^ names to animals
which referred to the countries whence they obtained tlnfu.
gave names to the ox, ivbich Professor 8ayce thinks must r^ter
to the country between the Eujiluates and Syria and to
Phd'nicia. The bulls of Bashan, and possibly of the Taurus
range, may be rightly recalled to our memories by these
names. The European names for the ox, on the other li -: ^
are said by M. Joly {ciL Isidore hft. Ililaire, 'Hist. Nat, '
iii. p. 8i>) to have an Asiatic origin, and M. A. Pictet ('i)u>
Originoslndo-Europeennes,' pp. 380-343) has declared his views_
to the same effect. This, however, is only what would hat ~
been expected iu the European languages of the Aryan diyif
Organic Nature produced hi/ Mans Interference. 363
>
b
What is of importance oa regards the domestication of the ox
is to note that though such languages as the Finnic may use
loan words taken from Aryan tongues to express the general
idea of Ox (= Bovine animal), they frequently have true Turanian
vocables to denote such particnlaritiea as we have in view
when we speak of heifers, calves, cows, bulls, and the "ox,"
sensu stricilori, confirming in the last matter the statement of
.Strabo (vii. 4, 8) that eivstration was learnt from the eastern
Europeans and Sarmatians. There is in fact a good deal of
evidence for a view which should hold either that the Turanian
races domesticated the wild ox, or ratber the wild calf, in-
dependently ; or that the human species did this great work
before thi." differentiatiou into Arj'au-speakiug and Turaniau-
speitkiug men was carried out. That the fcicythiaii breed of
C4ittle should have been hornless in the time of Herodotus
(iv. 29) a])pears to me to be explirable, not on the hypothesis
taken up by later observers tbat it is an effect ol' cold, but as
being a result of long-sustained domestication ; and if what Hehn,
p. 413, /. t'., suggests as to tlie i>outli Russian breed of small rod
steppe cattle being desccmlauts of those Scythian oxen is true,
we sliould have a further oouiirmation of this view furnished in
their persistency. There is, at any rate, another breed of cattle
in the South Ilussian stoiipes, which gi^es by the name of the
" Kalmuc " cow, and is supposed to have accompivnied the
Mongolian or Tartar hordes in their invasion of Europe.
Some writers, in defiance of the arguments that have just
been glanced at, and of many others, have advocated the
claims of Africii to be considered the parent country of the
domestic ox. The main fact, as it seems to me, wliich has
induced or seduced tliem rather into tins conclusion, is the
great extent to which boviculture bos developed itself through
the length and breadth of the *' Dark Continent." But without
wasting words in pointing out the curious conclusions to which
tliis reas<jning would lead us in <jtl)er cases, I would refer such
persons to Middendorli's account of the development which
tiiis samo boviculture has attained in Siberia, ami to his state-
ment that not only have tho nrmiads of the southern steppes,
the Burats, tlie Mongols, and the Kirghiz, herds numbering
thousands and tens of thousands wintering out in the open, but
that even the Jakuts by, it is true, taking more care of their
cattle, have, from being simply nomads, become a pastoral
people of distinction, and even "improved cattle-breeders!"
('Sibirische Keise,' iv. 2, 2, p. 1323.)
Coming, in the second place, to the consideration of the sheep,
I must allow that considerable hesitation has been expressed by
364 RoLLESTON on Modificaiiom of the External Aspects of
many writers as to the question of its pai'ent-stock ; and that
doubt may bo not alto<^ether unreasonably felt as to whetl
thtit stock may not have became extinct, as the parent-stock
tli(? cow has all but entirely done. But what I know of
decrlike agility and 'natclit'uhiess of some of our Kuroj
mountain breeds of sheep, and in the second place what
of the snialU'r size of the animal as giving it a less severe batt
to fi^Lt far its survival, makes mo slow to tliink that their parent-
stock npeil be thoui^ht likely to have perished as has that of the
larger ruminant. And setting this view aside, we may say that ;
either the Hloutlon {Ovis muMmon and cyprins), with a ^aug^l
from SlajoTca to Cyprus, and not without footings, occupied 0^^
such varieties as Om» orienfaiis, and Ovis Vignci, on the main*
land on various points of the moimtain-ranges of the Taui
and of Armenia to Xhone of Tibet; or the Argali, Ovis fei
Sibirica s. Oois Ari/ali, with an all but equally extensive ran|
from the Pamir range just above 8araarcjind and Bokhara
the Sea [of Okhotsk as Ovis nivicola, or Ovis polii, must
credited witli having given to the worH this inestimable gi
If it shall really turn out to be true tbat a true Argali, that is
to say a variety of wild .«lieep, in which both sexes carry horo^H
had been found in the Taurus, as Ainsworth (cit. A. Wague^H
'Die Geographische Verbreitung der Siiugethiere,' Abhandl. d. ir. '
kl. d. Ak. d. Wiss. Jliiuehen iv. Bd. Abth. i. p. 139), and Ritt
{' Erdkunfle,' xi. 50(j), have averred is the case, the claims
the Argali would to some persons, I apprehend, appear to
stronger tlum they may ilo if its range should, as I incline '
think it will, be shown to be confined to the more eastei
limits just given. But under any antl all circumstances, tl
fact that the female Moutlons have no horns, whilst the femji
Argalis have them, though smaller in size no doubt than the
of the male, when coupled with the fact that in the older bi
of domestic sheep both sexes carry horns, appears to me to
conclusive in favour of the Central Asiatic Wild ISheep.
reganls the Natural History argument;? I shall contetit myse
and I daresay others also, by referring* to the already quot<
eleventh fascicle of Pallas's ' Spicilegia,' and to Isidore GeoflVoy
* I may add a few words from tliD iilrcncty quoted memoir by Andrcoa Wagnor,
I. c, p. 137. •• HochaBioii i«t rcelit fij;eiitli<-h ilas Vatorlond dw Wilditcha/e nj
WdfLicge, dk- hier in zaldreiclitT Mengo uiid iu atlir versdiicdenen Foruicn v<
haU(li-M RJnd. Ob dii-w< ntio gi'StiiidcTtc Arten oder niclit vielmelir vide vj
ihnt-ii nur Kasscn vni» Hauplartcn ftusraacliun. ist pino Frago die noch Ion
nidit beuutwortet cat." Mr. Wnilucc's 8ii«;gcstion (• Gcograpliical Di^tributia
to), i, p. 232), thut Itje va^i plateau of Central Abia may, in compnxatively imm
geological titncs, Imve been iniirh Icaa elevatc'd, niid luay then haxo been ms
more feilile than it In now, deserves more than tliia simple montioD.
Organic Nature produced by Man* Interference. 365
*
St- Hilaire's ' Histoire Xaturello,' iii. pp. 8G-87, ibiqite cUata, but
I would add a couple of facta from tiie liiif^iiistic side of tlio
mass of arguments available for deciding tlie question. The
first of these is as follows : — ^Tlie early Aceadiau inliabitanta of
the plains of Babylonia, when they gave an epithet to an
animal, very frequently chose it from the locality whence they
supposed the animal to have been derived. And the ejnthet
which they bestowed upon the sheep was " uuni," or •' numnia,"*
which means " the hifrbhinds," and which, 411H applied by people
living in those wide plaius, and as being applied !ty them to the
wolf also, has a very obvious significance. It is true, as any-
body may convince himself by consulting Bocbart's * llierozoicon,'
ii. 2, p. 516, that poets and other writers, Aryans aud Semites,
(ireeks, Romans, and Antbiang inditlerently, have connected the
sheep, as they saw its habits, with mountainous scenery and
surroundings; what is of special importance in the epithet as
used in the Aceadiau column of Ihe bilingual Assyriiiu inscrip-
tions is, that it was used in such a country aud in such early,
not to say such unpoeticat, times.
My second linguistic fact tells, as it seems to me, strongly in
favour of not merely the Asiatic but «>f the Mongolian origin of
the domestic sheep ; it appears, I nu^au, to point to a more or
less limited area in the wide field of Asia as having been the
particular spot, or at any rate one of the ptu'ticular spots, where
a wild sheep was brought under domestication. This fact as
given by Ahlquist in his interesting work, ' Die Kulfurworter
der Westiinniscben Sprachen,' 1875, p. 11, is to the eflect that
the Tatars, by which word he means prusuniably Turkic and
Tungusic tribes, in the neighbourhood of the Lake Baikal, have
words of their own for ram aud ewe, tiikd, to wit, and sarik, which
the Tsclieremi«sians, who live now as far away from that lako
as is the river Volga, use as loan words. It is, 1 submit, not
easy to imagine that a word would have maintained its life thus
intact and vigorous if the thing which it represents had not
been part of the national life of the tribe using and retaining
it. And tliis suggestion gains in force when we learu from tlie
gome authority, L c, that the Hungarian language has adopted
Shwonic words for the ewe, the ram, and the hunb, and find
him deducing from this the conclusion that the Hungarians,
albeit a steppe tribe, had not been shepherds before they came
into relation with tlie Htavs. It may have been due to this,
but it may also have been owing to a prepotency either in the
• For those facta ece the Rov. W. Hmightoa ' On tbu Mammnliii of the Ai<ejriaa
Sculptures,' Trans. Soc. UiWieul Aroha>ology, v., I, 1876, j)p. 3-7, ibid. 2. 1877,
p. 42, ' Gleanings from tUe Nutiiral Hutor}- of the AncieulH,' 1879, pp. 12-89.
366 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspects of
Aryan Innguago or in the pastoral craft of the Slav race. F^
except upon one or other of these latter hypotheses, it is diffici
to see why the Tcheremissians on the Volga should have retaiue
their Mungolian names for the ewe and ram, whilst not only
the Hungarians but the Ostjaks, the Vogals, the Slordvins,
Syrians, and the Wotjaks, from the Volga to the Irtisch, shoi
be using more or less mo*h'fied Slavonian wonis for the sat
things. Anyhow, that a lowly, organised language, such as
Tataric, should have words of its own for the domestic ewe ai
ram, is a point of great significance, especially when we
sider that these Tatars live<l around the spurs of the Alt
range on the lower and middle zones of which the Argali
thi'n, as now, available for the purposes of domestication.
Thirdly, of the horse. The fossil or semifossil bones of tl
horse, Eqnus crihaUus, are found in ihe lower Thames valh
gravels under our feet, and from this area of the world's snrface
all the way to the regions round the J^ake Baikal ; and in th
latter district tlie horse is found, as I think may be safely sai^
in a wild state at the present doy. It is true tliat a very larg
number of naturalists of the first rank, such as Mr. Darwin ar
Mr. Wallace, have acquiesced in the view which teaches that th~
so-called "Taqiau" is but a " fcraJ " animal, the oflFsprinff qf_
runaway stallions and mares from the steppe droves. But it
also tiue that the small number of naturalists of the first
who have travelled over the Human dejypes, viz. the youn|^
Gmelin, Pallas, and Middendorff, are of the contrary opiniot
and that whilst acknowledging that the steppe horse, like, pe^
haps, all other domestic animals except the sheep, may laps
into feral habits, they hold to the view that the true ''Tarpan'
is a descendant of the prt.-^tine wild stock, whilst the " Musin'
is but a steppe horse run wild.*
• Sep Middeniiorff, ' Sihiriaclie Reise,' iv. 2, 2, pp. 1308-1321. Gmelio, • ;
durch BuBslaiifl,' i, 15, 1770, and fnr drawing Tub. iz.
It amy im well, for several reasons, to pive the exact fiicte as to the
vhich Pallns held at varioo* times respecting the feral or the truly an«3
ginally T^ikl chamcter of the so-called wikl iiorsc of tiio Steppes. Id 1769 1
' VoyagPB rlt" I'ulliiH,' Frcnrh tmiiHliition, 17S8, vol. i., p. 324) rnUas incl
the view of the Torpan being simplv a ft-ml rnce; ond he repcutcil Miis i
in 177;J (Hee I. c, vu\. v. p. yO). but in 177G. in the olovc-nlL IVuiriolo
' Ppicilegift Zoologica,' p. .'>, he esprcsists himaolf to the following effect : '
ftri in cnmpis Bessorabici^ circaqne Tunam ct i>er omncm Totnriuin vai
in desertifi vag^antur prcgntim, magnnm quIJein partem fun^tivis Nnmiulimi ei|fl
pennixti atqae muItipUoati ; idco([uo Tci^icolores ; ali4pii tnmev habilu tvU>
dcuratit adeo ditcrepaides ul j/riim7<rrt de »lirpe frrog etre dttbitnri fix. pottL
Ceuf. de iij* qui nd Tiinain atqnt^ in ereino inlor Vwlsrain ft Jaikiini habcnlur'
S. G. niiH'lin (the yonnger Gmelin), 'Reisen dureh KusHland.' vol. i., p. 44 i
et Ilinerarij nofttri, vol. i. p. 211 ; et vol. iii., part ii., p. 510." Stc nlto
poathamously (1831) putilished ' Zoographia Koaao-Aaiittica,' vol. t p. 2C0.
To these references I would add the ' GeogrnphiachcGcschicbte,' i. p. 181, 11
Organic Nature prodvuxd by Mar^s Interference. 367
The main argament for the descent of the wild horses of the
steppes i'rom tlie domestic or serai-doiuesticated stocks of the
Turaaian nomads, rests on the fact that a great variety of
colour is observed to exist in the free droves. This, lio\vever,
appears to me to prove nothing more than that the tame and
wild varieties breed freely together.* I myself, long ago, suc-
ceeded in maintaining numbers of feral rabbits, parti-coloured
with white, im an area already occupied by the ordinary Eng-
lish wild rabbit. The feral rabbits never attained an equality
in numbers with the gray stock, but being spared in shooting,
•whilst the wild stock was not, they maintained themselves for
a considerable number of years in what was for themselves as
against predatory attacks of various kinds an only too con-
spicuous prominence. But nobody would have argued from
this that no wild stock could be Jheld to exist on that area.
Still though we may follow the highly trustworthy naturalists
and travellers just mentioned as to tlie persistence of the ab-
original horse in a wild state on the Turanian steppes, we have
yet to show that it is probable that it was on those steppes
rather than iu any other part of the wide area over which tlie true
wild horse once ranged that it became reduced to domestication.
And here again the Accadian inscriptions come to our assistance;
the horse being called there (see the Rev. Wm. Houghton, I.e.
1870, p. o), " imiru Knr-ra,'* *' the animal from the East." We
see fnjm this that these ancient Turanians claimed, and had
their claim nclcnowledgeJ, that the taming of the horse was an
achievement wrought out in the cradle of their race. I have
sometimes thought that the ascription by the Greeks of this feat
to Poseidon may be similarly taken to indicate that they had
some sort of dim conviction that the horse had come to them
from the countries beyond the Egeati. This, however, may
be an oversti'aining of the value of such hints. l»ut the history
of the horse, whether dug out of Pile-dwellings and Neolithic
interments, or out of records such as those in Genesis and
Exodus, show that it came comparatively late into use, as a
domestic animal at least, in the regions to the west of the
Central Asiatic plains,!
of Iho zoolojTiiit Zitumerniaiin. Writing only two years after the nppearanca
of Pallau's Memoir just cited, Zimmermunn not only entirely accepted the view
given above iu italics, but I. c, p. 204, speakB in not exaggerated terma of Polios
as " dor er«to allor von mir gukuonten Reisenden,"
* The Mongola and Knlmuoka, from supc^ratittuus motives, take grent pains to
secure various colours for their domestic hdrsesi, shet]), mid gonta. H<<iico some of
the viirioty in the feral borsc^fl. Sec Pallas, ' Mongol. Volk? i. pp. 117. 178. 179.
t Sec furtbcr, Ltnorumut, ' rremicres CiviliBfttions.' toiu. i. p. 322; Ahlquiat.
^^ ' Die Kulturwijrtcr dor We»tfiuniachea Spraehon,' 1878, p. 9 : ' Spectator,' April
m
0
^
368 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Atpeets oj
TLe fourth of the domesticated animals, which I have spoke(
of as ha^n'ng in great probability had a Central Asiatic origii
the goat, namely, has its claims, supported by the vast niajoril
ijf naturalists without any hesitation. The wild Capra aiga^r
of the Taurus, of the Caucasus, of the rersian mountains, ox
of Kirghiz and Tatar districts, '• jmssibly mingled," says M
Darwin, ' Domesticated Animals and Cultivated Plants,' i. p. IC
*' with the allied Indian species, Capra Fakoneri" may
safely taken as the parent-stock of this animal. The Til
and Angoran varieties of the goat, by their well-deserved repi
tatioii, may seem, even in these days and under the light throv
on the subject by the book just qnotetl, to lend some sujiport
Col. Hamilton Smith's jtrinciplo," that where the largest ai
most energetic breeds of a race exist, there we may look fa
their original liabit^tion.
It is tlius seen llutt four out of the twenty-one domesticat<
raammulia may, with very considerable probability, besuppost
to have been Hret domesticated in Centml Asia, and thongh tbf
non-eosmupolitanism of the two camels, Camelus kiclriam
and Cttmdiis dromedaritis, renders tliem less available for mjj
present purpose, that, viz., of pointing out the great change
which man lias effected in transporting into all parts of
world what he fouud only in some more or less circumscril
tortious of it, the facts of the Central Asiatic origin of the tw<
uraped variety or species, tuid of the Soutli-western Asiatic,
at least Arabic, origin of the oue-humped dromedary, bear nc
a little on the whole question.
I do not omit the dog and the pigf from the list of the nni-
• ThtMio nil? Col. Hamilton Smith's views (Nut.LiLniry, " Doga." vol. ii., p. 1(
cit. Rev. Wra. llougliton, /. e.). BjwftUing of the iMssiblo derivation of tho grt
hound frotn an AMiatic homo "somewlicrc to the Wi-ntwiwl of Uio great Alaat
tnniiTitain chnina where the easternmost Baotriiku ami I't-rsiiun pilains coiumetK
niiol whore- the steppes of tho Soythie nations Hprond towards the north," OjIqp
HuiaiUon Smith says, " wlien ivc look to Uio present jiroofs of this concliuii
auumri that where tho larj^cst and nmat erierf^etic breetid of the raeo exist
may wo h«ok for their original imbitatinns, we then tind, to the east of the
the very Inrge Rreyhoimda of the Deccan, to the west of it tho powerful Perst*
breed, and to the north of the CnflpiQn the great rough greyhound of Tort
ItuB^in, and thence we may infer that they wore carrieii by the migrating c
westward across tho Helle^iioiit, and by earlier Celtic and later reutoniol
along tho levels of Nitrthi-m Oeniiany as far as Britain," It ia curio>iU
Colonel H. Smith sboulil not in tliia conneetioti have monfionod the Thibob
dog, figured by himself, /. c, with the tan-colmired aiipra-orbital stripe, cxims
BO Bignilicativt'Iy to this variety aiui to the Mexican Alco. For the ThibotAU
mftstiti' has long been known to bo one of tho largest varietiea of tho apoeiee,
and quite reccatly fsee 'Times,' Dee. 2'j, 1870) Mr. haber, the consular reaidiat
at Szechnon, is reported ua writing of them as tlie largest (logs ho had ever i
t Thnt the Central Asiatic wild lioar len<l8 iltolf r^ iidily to dnincstic
thus i'S[ircB»ed by Paljiis. ' /of>gmi>hin RoEso-Asiatica,' p. 209, " Porcc
niri oBaueseunt facile ct cum domcsticis gcuorant." And Kaddc'a words Q\
raals which there ia good reason, to my judgment, for thinking
were domesticated in Central Asia, because I do not think they
were <lomestifnted within that area, but because, I cannot deny,
that it is probable they were also domesticated elsewhere. But
it may feirly be suggested that the art, skill, and craft of
dnmesticati lie; these and the other six animals havinnj l)een firat
learnt in Central Asia, sjiread thence ; and that tlnis all or nearly
all the acquisitions which man has made? in the way of domesti-
caiioD, may thus owe their origin, if not in tiie way of actual
blood-lineage, yet in that of being the fruits of man's experience
acnnired tliere, to tlie district in question.
I J1115S by a natural transition to point out very shortly, not
the cardinal necessity of the possession of the sheep, goat,
01, horse, camel, pig. and dng, for food and clothing, for loco-
motion, iind for carrying on the processes of the hunting, of the
pastoral nnd of the jigricuUnral lifo; but how that necessity hag
b<icn nncouseiously ri eognistd by man in certain i>t his earliest
institutions.
Of thpRt< seven mnmniab', six are now distributed over the
face of the whole habitable world ; but long before this had
become the case with any one of them, except possibly the dog,
man had expressed unconsciously, if not quite inarticulately, his
rerognitinn ol' their value by using them in one way or another
for one or aunther of his most sacred rites and ceremonies. The
singJc T.atiu word Suovetaurilia denoting a particular kind
of sncriliee of the swine, the slieep, and tlie ox, which is figured
on many a tablet fonnd in this as in other countries, and was
performed at great crises of Rome's fate, may suffice aa regards
the three animals which s[)eak so plainly to our eyes in those
sculptures. To Eii^t^rn nnd to \Vestern people it was indif-
ferent (see Kxod. xii. 5, ]*s. ). !l, nnd classical writers pasiiim)
whether sheep or goats were taken out of the fold tor this
purjjose. As regards tlie dog, Livy (xl. 0) tells us that in the
Purification of a Macedonian army the tivo halves of a dog's
in Siid«»n von Ost-SiLiricn,' 18C2, i. 230) are ns much or more to the point, aa
tliey apply to adult aoiniak : " no m\ii» ich gestelicn, diiss bio selir friedlicher
Nntur Bind uud ox mir melirmalA pa.s.sirto mittolaltc Wildschweine sich mir bifl
!iuf vi<-r Fiiiien weitu imbtrn 7.11 MtiifU." If tlw so-rnlletl " wild*' boar is tm tttuie an
to allow this so uiniiy cunturies after the invention of gunpowder, it is «»iay to tinder-
t<tand that it may have bt.t.'ii tmii'h more oiiicnublo to man 'a iMflnuncethuiuauds of
yt-urH befiirii (liat <li»covery. As reganU the dog, it «eeniB f trohal)!*^ that even within
tho liiiiit'^ of the Central Asiatic region wo are dealing with, two very distinct
wild Htocks may huve furnished corresjxtnding tame ones. The large Indian dog,
or IlyrPtmipn don of the Piicients, may very rcas-nnubly Ik? siippogod (n» augge«teil
by I'^itziiiRcr) to btivo been the pareiii-sltiek of the iiiudeni ThilHslaii nmsitifl',
whilst Pttllttd gays that the Knlniiiek domestic do-^ is ho like the jru-kid of tho
Mumo region that it ia imposaibic not to consider them identical, ^e ' Spicilegin
Zoolojica,' Fasc. xi.
VOL. xux. 2 ^
370 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Atpects of
body were placed, one on one side, one on the other, of tUe
road alonfj which the soldiers were passed. Similarly, we are
told by the Arab Abmed Jbn-Fozlan, who must have witnessed
the proceeding with a good deal of repulsion, that a dog vrag
cut in half and put into the ship in which a Norse chiet' waa
burnt in the tenth century on tho banks of the Volga (see
Anderson, 'Proo. Scot. S(>e. Antjq.,' May IM, 1872, p." 522);
and I have myself taken up, nut without some effort in over-
coming a certain reluctance, tlie bones uf a dote who wus keeping
hia mistress faithful company in a grave imdoubtedly of the
earliest Neolithic period in England.*
As regards the horse, Achilles, fresli from his conversation
with Xanthus and Balius, tells the Trojans (II. JLxi. 132) tlutt
even their wonted sacrifices of horses will not profit them ; the
Mongols (see Hownrth's 'History of the JbmgoJs,' i. 2fi2, 26'J;
and Yule's ' Marco Polo,' i. 205, eii. in loco), the Lusitanians
(Livy. Epit. 4'J), and the Norsemen (see Ibn Fozlan, I. c.), all
alike sacrificed hoi*ses on great occasions.
I have not found, nor did I expect to find, any account of the
sacrificing of the camel, either in {Semitic or classical literatiure;
if, however, it be a sound principle that races as yet uncivilised
■would be likely to sacrifice or otherwise deprive tbemgelves
upon great oceasious of the services of their oldest and most
valued domesticated anima]s,t we ought to be able to show
• See * Britiali Barrows,' p. 518, 1877; 'Jounml Anthropological Iiutitiitck'
October 1875, p. 157.
t Aa I Rm speaking of animuls dorocsticiated in Central Asia, I have not isem-
tionod the ftsa which, us Dr. Scloter hoa shown (' I'roc. Zool. Soo.' 1862, p. ItMk
owns R« its part^iit-.stock tho Agintm tmniopwn of AbyBsinia, Its liistory citc,
howe?er, an itluBtration of the principles ununeiatCMl at.>nve at least a.- -
as tboee of any of the eight AKiatic niiiTQiuuls judt sjwoifled. From the r.
inailc to thtH animal in tlio Puutati-ucli, it would ajipmr to have been dnme«ui-ni'<j
in the region Llier^ treated of before eitlier horeo or camel, thougU Bubtwqocnllf
to the ox, Piiidiir's rcff renoe to it as usfd for Haorilicfl by tlio U jpeirbarMai
(Od. PytU. X. I. 52) will be to perAniis who will bear in mind its African oiigia
almost ail couriiiciDg fvidcitico of thegreatantiquity of tbedateof its domesticatioi
UH its appi>araneo on tlio oldejit Egyptian monuments of the Fourth !• •
Hecatnmbs, such aa Pindar spi'akd uf, are, numerically, flgiire«l on on. '
reproduL«ed for uh by LepBtuH. That the ass aUoul<i so early have bet ; . ^ .i
into lIyper1x>roan r<-g\(>n* nven by a poet is a litlk* Murpri^iug, con .»(
tho hor<*, wbicli in 80 mni'li bettor muted for w.ieli olitualcs, was alrcu . . ., «
there; but beaideH being surprising it id also nignilicaiit. For tho suci-itj
oeremooial iwo of this animal. «bo OrttUi's ' KxourtJiw ad Tacit. Hint.' v. i;, .
1848, of hia edition of the p-eat historian, ibiquc citala. Dean Hbmloy's ' JtthiM
GJiurch,' i. 96, ibiqne cilatit. ' Piiular, ed. Disimn and Sohuoidewio,' #»■«< iL
1847, p. 353, ihiquf citnta. For tho lin;:;ui*ti(' Pala'ontology of ri
Leuorinuut, ',0rigint»9 do Civilisation,' i. 319. For tlie use of Ibo u
modern Hyperboreans .^eo Middiondorff, 'Sibirisclio Roiae,' iv. 2, 2, j.
however, that great naturalist albeit reckoaiug " Pferdekcuntnigs uu. j
als Bfiiaer Spedalitat," or ou6 of them, Itiavea the difficulty abo\
unexplained.
k
that the Central Asiatic nomads did so by the "ships of their
deserts." And I find in Mi-. Howorth's vahmble 'HiBtory of
the Mongols/ i. p. 42G» the fallowing passage : —
" Ssanang Setzen now goes on to tell it story which crystal-
lises for ns a very corions phase of old Mongol manners. Altan
Kliukim had a son called Pubet PaJdshi. The young man died,
and his mother (leterniined to kill 100 hoys and 1(R) foalfi of
camels, which were to lie buried with luiu. and to accompany
him as aa escort to tho otiier wtjrld. Sho had killed over forty
bovs when a tumult arose among tbe people." j
Here I think I may leave this part of my subject, the signi-
ficance of this series of facts being Bufliciently self-evident.
For as against these seven domesticated mammals which Central
Asia may with so much probability claim as being her gifts to
mankind, inasmuch as she either hereelf furnished their parent-
stocks, or at any rate furnished the necessary opportunities for
gaining the knowledge subserpjently used in domesticating
similar stocks elsewhere, what can all the rest of the habitable
globe set either as regards cosmopolitanism or as regards
importance? As regards importance the other thirteen are all
but insignificant; as regards cosmop)!itanisin, universal impor-
tation, that is, either for purposes of practical utility or animi
volxiftatisque ca-iisaa, as Caisar put it, we can mention but the
African cat and the African ass.
I come now to the consideration of the facts and v-iews with
which liotanists have supplied us as to the original homes of
our cultivated plants. Oiu* own inspection and recollection
of the landscapes of the various countries in which we have
travelled will enable us to estimate the greatneas of the change,
which man's migrations and transportations have effected in the
sphere of all his labour under the sun. And I will begin what
I have to say under this bead Ly the apparent paroflox that the
argument which our cultivated plants funiish us with for deter-
mining the locality whence man issued to occupy the world and
subdue it, and alter its external ap^>earance, would, like some
other arguments, have appealed with greater force to one of the
civilised races of auticjuity than it does at first sight to us. It
is, herein also like some other arguments, cogent for all that.
Let us stiite it. Fifty per cent, of our cultivated plants have
been shown by Do CandoUe,' Geographie Botanique,' pp. 086, 1)87,
and by Elisee Reclus, 'The Ocean' (English Trans, ii. chap. 27,
292), following him, to belong to " Europe " and '* Asie septen-
trionale et occidentale," that is to say, to the Paliearctic Region
of Zoogeography. So fur the figures are equal for cultivated
plants and for domestic animals, and I do not feel it necessary
2 B 2
372 EoLLESTON on Mudificafionis of Uic External Aspects of
to dwell upon tho differences wliieh the other propoitional
numbers sLow as rep^anls Africa proper and South Ameriofl
What is nf itupoitance, however, to point out^ is that to
body liviDp, not merely before the time of Columbus, wh<
discovery Ims been said to have >icted upon the Old AVc
much as the approximation of a new heaveuly body, plauet^ i
other, mi<:^ht act upon the whole earth, but before the time,
of Tacitus and Agrieola, what Africa and ludia had given
in the way of eultivjited phiuts, would have seeruedjust as ins
nificant as whiit^ puttini> the ass and the fiallina<.'ean birds
of sight, they had given liitu in the way of domestic animals.
He might, if living in Italy, have said, as did Columella (iii. ,
6, cit. llehu, p. 42: J I. c), '* Curte uiortalium obsequeutissima
Italia, qua; paene totius orbis fruges adhibito studio colonoi
ferre didicit," and pointed out beforehand the airy inaccui
of Goldsmith's apostrophe to that country in his ' Travellc
He might, I am iucliued to think, with the evidence avmlal
to Lim, hnv<i ptdnted out, and correctly, that the middle zoij
of deciduous trees which girdled then, as now, so many of
Italian hills with a belt of chestnuts, and much, therefore,
its distinctive cliaracter, was due to the intercourse of Hoi
with I'ontus and Galatia in pre-C'hristian times. And he mij
have drawn thence tho same conclusions which we may, I thir
aIho draw as to the area on tho world's surface whence
set fortli wcKtward on his career of ottcujmtion, having, as
had, avaiJiihlo for his wants, vegetables, phiutij, and tref^s of
less value, and of nu less prominence in the laudscajie, than
these ef Pahi'arctic, thougli not of Italian, origiu, viz., wht
barley, rye, oatH, spelt, huckwlieat, millet {Panicum), pe
beans, hemp, flax, ctibbage, tumip, plum, walnut, vine, ohe
olive. Of tea, cofl'ee, sugar, even of rice, of oranges, and
several other of the gifts of the Indian region ; or of coffee,
any one of the three, or four if wc include Mu^m. nixsnte^ nc
flourishingly growing in Sicily, gifts of Africa proper, a mt
living at that time had as little knowledge as ne could bai
bad of the gifts to come from the still undiscovered New Worl
of the potato, of maize, of the pineapple, to which his all ali
stone pine was to lend its name, of the equally incorrectly
named artichoke, of the tomato, now Boniewhat variouslv obtrn-
sive or intrusive in Mediterranean regions, or of tobacco, or
the prickly pear, or of the agave, though of the two latt
in reference to what wtxs then, and is still, such a large part of
human activities, it can be said, as by Admiral Smyth (p. 17
of his 'JMemoir of Sicily and its Islands,' 1824), that thcl
"form imponetrablo palisades for fortifications, and in the
Organic Nature produced htj Man\^ Inter fereivce. 373
plains present very serious obstructions to the operations of
cavalry."
My third map, with the distribution of the vine after Schouw,
shoultl be fomparerl with my picture from Kaerapfer's 'Amoe-
nitatea Exoticfo,' Fasc. iv. p. 711, 1712, of what he calls, p. 714,
tho Meitsiit (lactylifera , the tlftte-harvc'.st of I'ersiii, aud speaks of
as bein^j; hmLs mut/ui ijuam lahorcx. The distributional limits of
the " fruitful " vine and tlie " fruiting: " date-palm now, as of
yore, overlap each other, as was pointed out by Anifjo in his
'Memoire sur V^ioi Thermometrique du Globe terrestre*
('(Euvres,' v. 216, ed. 1858) in Palestine, when from this fact,
lie, with much ingenuity, argued that X\\)b years luive not
appreciably altered the eliraate of ralestine. For "la limite
theniiorat'triqnc en moins do la d.atte diflen* tres peu de la
limite tiiermoniutriqiio eu plus do la vigne;" and, what makes
the argument, especially to those who have Kaempfer's picture
of the luxuriant date-harvest before their eyes, entirely and
beautifully perfect, he further (p. 217, L c.) tells us, '* a Abiisheer
(Bnshire) eu Perse, dont la temperature moyenno no surpasse
certainement pas 23', on ne ])eut, »uivaat l\iebuhr, eultiver la
vigue que tlans les fosses on a Tabri de ractiou directe des
rayons du soleil." A more simple, but also a more a)nclusive
proof that the Syrian climate luis not materially changed within
the historic period nannot be imagined.*
I began this Lecture with details as to the distribution of
pines and firs by man's agency; I may fitly close those details
by attempting something as regards that of one of the palm
tribe. For, though Leopold von Buch was •wrong in holding
that the two natural orders were altogether mutually exclusive
as regards natund geographical distribution, <is a voyage in the
" It is stranK(.' to fiml that Amgo conld, wJien dealing with France, luivo
HWcrvetl 90 far from tlio liuo of eviilciiuo liR cmiiloywl aa to PaleBtinc, iis to Jiave
tnld tho ChnniluT of Dipiitioa fFobniftry 27, ISJiG): " Vou« Bercz i^ut-i-tiv (itniinca
irontendro i\\w ilnns los cnvimna Je Paris, il y n quelqiies Hi'ecles, il fiiisAit
liL'Aiiwiip jilua chuud qu'iiujourd'hui." vol. xii. 'ffiuvros, Mi'Jftngoa,' p. 4S4. Cut
fnr tbu cont(.-xt on« might hiivp l.H.-eii ti'niptf<l to take thu Ifiht of ttte words just
quotod a« applying to tliu muuth of February only ; rind in all gnivity the title of
fliapitro xix. in tin' meiinjiralrwidy quott'd, vol- viii.'iEiivres,' vol. t. 'Nut. Scient..'
J). 23D, " Oliiserviitioua ])rom'iint quo I'aiicieii tlimot se maintiont. dans une {wrtie
tits Gnulcs," might eit'in to justify such iin inltirprottititm of wonU spoken under
wonic provocatiou iu dfltwte. Aud the raore bo us a few piifjes previously (p. 214)
wo Jiud Araga rcw)giii«iD|? tin? e-Hscutial dpceptivi;ao8« which mu»t nttAch to " une
foule de dfX'uinents hislijriqxK-3 " ill tlie following words : 'On reii«irqiiert» que Je
dtvrai resondm le )irol»lL'Hif qti<:> je mo auis po»e Hfliix avoir rccours ii des chiffirvs
cf.rtflins, il dta oliHcrvutituis nuuieriijues. L'inveution dea thermomt'tres ne reinonlo
giiiTc quli I'liriiidc 15li!i : on doit nime ajoiitet qu'avant I7lKl tea instruiucnts
uctaiciit ni uuvctua iii coiupnnkbh'^."
^
374 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspects of
Meditermnean, or the sight of Martius' picture of Brahea duJe _
(vol, iii. tail 162) side by side with a true pine in Mexico, tcache?
us, there can bo nu doubt that Caisar and liis couutrvmen wck',
speaking generally, right in holding the fir and the bocch to be
88 characteristic of Gaiil and Britain as their repeated aUtu&ioDS
and their coins t<how tlic^m to have thought the palm was of
Palestinu and the adjacent countries, at least eastward and
southward.
What, then, do wo know, firstly, as to the original hom«>
botanical region to which the date-palm, Pluvnix dacit/life
belongs ? ana secondly, what can we surmise as to the pai-ticular
spot in that area in which that tree was ilrst made available
a cultivated plant, and .subjected to those hunnui inlluenc
which three of my pictures are intended to illustrate ?
As to the lirst oi' these questiuus there is no doubt, and
occasion for any very lengthy answer, Tlie region which Grise-
bach names, after its principal constituent element, simply,
"Sahara," and which stretches over more than 5*0 de^eos of
longitude from Macaronesia toIVIultania, fmm the Canaries, that
is, io the Great Desert of Itajpiitana, and whicli coniprehcndi
not only the Sahara strictly so-called, but cis-Saharau Africa
alscT, from the iou'i;itude (e. 10") of Tunis eastward, and not
only old Egypt and Arabia, but young " Egypt," or Sinde also,
is the botain'cal region of the date-palm. Sir Joseph Hooker
(* Morocco and the Great Atlas,' 1S7I>, p. 409) has pointed out
that there are many Cuuariau plants which form an exceedinuly
interesting group, the uiembL-is of which, though chi' .iy
Egypto-Arabian, are found to extend in some instances ereu
into Western India, and he suggests that " it is not unreason-
able to suppose that such liave covered Africa in a sub-tropical
latitude, and tlius reached the Canaries under conditions iiow
operating." Other plants, tliei'clnre, if nut other trees, may
huve spread over the saniu area, whether by man's aid or
without it, and may he taken as equally chanieteristic of it»
even though they may not need so much " water to their feet
and fire to their heads." It is, ptr contra, 1 may remark, by a
Burplusage of water to the heat! and a noxious quantity of heat to
the feet, tliat the latitudinal limits, south and north ])ani" '
of the date-palm are given, II', as Dr. Daubeuy sugi.
('Lectures on Climate,' I8t!3, p. SO), we have, as in certain
truly tropical (and continental) countries, heavy falls of rain
dm-ing that particular time of tlio year wlien the pollen should
bo carried to the pistilliferous llmver, this latter will not be
fertilistid (unless by man's interference), the dioecious character
I
Organic Nature produced hy Maris Interference. 375
of its flowers putting it thus, as it does also Borasstts JiahelU, at
a serious disudviiutuge as compared with the coconut-palm,*
iJocon nucifera, whose eonipany they, in consequence perhups of
a Bens© of this tlieir int'L-riority, appear to avoid.
On the other hand, tlie requircmoutofa mean temperature of
from 70'^ to Sl-o"^ F. exeludes the date-jmlm from bearing dates,
except under specially tavour.ible, and tlieroforo only locally
prevalent conditions, eked out by human protectiou, on the
uortii shores of the JHediterranean ;t all the way from Alex-i
audretta, where it still grows, to Gibraltar. Tiie solitary, andJ
i'or this as lor other reasons unfertile, {taims which we still eedj
here and there in the iEgeaa and aloug the region of the west
• It is not only the " tempeiit's wmth," but also the " Imtlle's rage," wliicli the
fliwciouH chiirmrlor of the date-jMilm helps in the work of destruction. The
]>ioturci3 from Li'i)»iUB'H Egyptian Denkmiiler whicli I iuivo had oipiwi for tliis
Lecttiro show tliat this was known in the time of Ihoac *" greati old houses and (ij,'hld
fought long u;^a." History tuUs us that Nonnuii iind Sunioen (atie Admiral
Smyth's 'Sicily,' p. 10, 'Miirtiua,* iii. p. 262), Aiyou and Arabian generalB havBrt
each alike, in dcQuuco uilh«r of the letter or of the spirit of th(;ir professod roligioQ^J
or of both, cut down the male ]>uliii.s, und »o priiveuted pro lunto the reproductioaJ
of the troe with 360 uses to mankind. The modern Arubs, nccording to ItrjldfM
* AinkaniKhe Reiaen," AulL 2, 1869, p. 70, cil. llehu, I. c. \>. 513, nppear twmetimoif
even in vory stsvcrf* military opirutionn or devastations to spare the palm evcai]
when cutting down other fruit trees. But Abd-cI-Kudtr appears to hnvo hud some
tranngrtiBHiouB oven u* to ixdiu-treeti on his comscienco to repent of. The (solitary
pnlm, the eiiatonce of vvfnoli von Baer rejtorta to us on a certniii penin-auln on
the eoutk shore of the Cuj>inun, called in our majis the Peninsula of Mejankal,
hut iti hi^ apjiarently.and ouriously. the Peninsula of Ptitemkiii.iii, I should think,
a solitary mirvivor of sf«nii^ such iiroceedinga oa tli<»e Hgurtfl in inj* Fj^yptian
picturea. Von Baer himself looks upon it as a surrivor ot couipauiona not
dojitroyed by the art and mahcis of man, but by \om\ refrigerotion, duo to tha
extinction of certain volcanoes which were active even in comparatively rooent
tiiueit. Verecutide dittentio.
t Martins writes on thia subject, h c. iii. p. 263, as follows : " Hasc igitur habuimiia
qutt) lie iiuTemeuto, quod nrbur ilia cufiit iti imperio florro jicr Europani meritllo-
iiak'fu jwitfMiti, diceremus. Ex qitibns intfllipi jxitest omnino nt jiowuiur arte effioi,
er)gilnndijm(iuo nobis esse cam ["lures cuJturio grudus intra fiucH quns occnpavcrit
jRTcurrorc'. Quh> si ad summuni aseeniierit floros cmittit, Iruetusijue dulci.-* et
boni sujKirisi edit, et »i ntanu rl artr nvcedmli; fccuudctur, ctiaia semiuu ud propa-i
ganduni iJonea gignit ; quml lit in IiiH|iauin! ])nrtead meridiem versus remutii»ima) '
in i^ioilin, in <ir«»ciso promontoriis muxime ud meriditui vergentibus, vi in iusula
Cypro (nimirum sub lat. bor. 35^ ct medio eulnru annuo IS'^ C. wl 20' C.) In
altera zona flores quidcm et fnictus fert, sed fructuum earo uon plane excolitur,
ipium acerbi ait tii4[Hiri.<, Fructilivuti'* nulla, .-ieudua e:issa: hue pcrtioet fractals
littorum maris Mediterrnnei in Oullia meridiouali, in Italia, iu Sardinia, item
regionis Dnhuutiiu, lusulas lonicic, Gricciteque BeptentriuuBliB. Cujiis zonia
Icrminutti septentrionalem jjosueria fortasse 41"" 20'-45" lot, bor. In tertia linca
[mlum durat quidem sub divo, sed llores nut mros aut nullos cmittit : imtuo £ron-
descit tttiitum ; cujus zon» terminus septentrionalis teudit ut coriimeraoravi, per
iusulii-H lucus V<'rbeni sub hit. bor. 40'^ media anui tempcrio a 12'' usque ad 13° C.
Arhirhic provivore potest, etuim si hiemis temjieries iuterduiu sub frigoris gniduni
depriiimtur dnmraodo uc aimis (forsan ad — 3^ vel 4^ C.) ftceedut. quofrigoris otium
inali nietlicro, citri, aurantii, ct myrti extingui attjue opprimi Bolei»t. 8uj«rior
i altititdinis ti^rminus iu mouto Aetutu Udque od jwdam 140U vel li38U, teste viro cl.
^K Philippio, adsceudit."
L
I
^76 RoLLESTON on Modifications of the External
and north shores of Asia Minor, short of the Black Sea
ward, and which still strike us as being something as ali^i
that hiudscape as was the seedling-palm at Apollo's
temple to the eyes of the much-travelled Ulysses (Odysa. i
162), have been planted there not iis " food-plants," but auii
volupfatiaqve causna.
As regards the particular and sinnjle spot in the vast bot
nical region, if particular and single spot there really was, upon
the longitudinally vast area upon which the date-palm we
brought under that human iuflueuce which has since caosed
to effloresce into so many vai'ieties* very various opinions Lftl
been advanced, and I propose to add a fresh one to tii«
number. It may appear at first night that such a discussit
and such an attempt have in themselves an intrinsic futilit
We do not need to refer to Xing Juba's report of his explora-
tory voyage to the Canaries to learn that the date-palm wi
bear dates even in an oceanic and uniidiabit«d island, and sot
persons may think that we need only, like the wits of Cbarlea
time, to study ourselves and oiu* sensations to see bow
forefathers of the Guanches, when they in some post-Juban
or post- Augustan period occupied] the ^island, would, under th^
stimulus of hunger alone, come to learn the art of date-cultui
even if they had not brought the knowledge of it with them?
Still, I think, on the doctrine of chances, or, what cornea to the
same thing, the principle, " Frustra fit ])er plura quod fit
jmtest jyer panciora,'" as well upon certain concrete argument
furuishod by the Egyptian monuments on the one hand, and "
certain curious but still life-like and truth-like stories on tl
other, which I find in Herodotus, though other writers h«\
not quoted him ad hoc, that it is not unreasonable to suggest yet
another site for the one where man first iutermeddled with the
self-preservation and the species-preservation of the date-palm.*
• It 18 II little uiiiuBUig to fiml twenty-two ]iagt8, 289-31 1, of Seeinanii's * Popiilw
Hiatory of Palms' dev<>iod in iliscuBshig tlio qufstions whotlier the date-jiiilm
ttti " eudeuiio (genuine) tuciiiher of tho CaiiurJBti Floru," uud " whether it
indigeiiuuH to tht» Cnimry Inlands." This Ixxik wa.-*, however, piilili»het.l iu 18S
nud though gnniethiiig, iiiul jxThapg loo niucli, wna ovun Lhoii nsfrilxxl to " occ
Hionul cuutica " in the i.'xplaiinu!^ uf anomalieH in geographical cLiBtrihution, n
deal Liia been !cu.mt aincu that which would iwve rei)ilei-<'d tliut duzt-u of
iaipoisjihle. It i^ rciuarkuUu that the iitithor ihd not use thi- urguiueuts Rupplu
hini hy Dr. Carl Bnllo in support of tho Atlantic hy]X)lhe8i.s, which nioce thoM
days htts bcou bnrit'd m dteply n» tho Atluntis itself was fiupixjsed to hiive Woi
Of course another question, not raisod iudeal by Dr. 8eemanii, B8 to whether
ut of artificially cultivating the dnie could havo originnted in what we iioi
to be oceanic islundii unil spread thence ea-sfwurd is, by thv kiiowIctJji«?
since 1859giiiued as to ' Mini und Nature' in Iheir iudepeudeut us well as it
biutually intenicting openitions, rendered nil but nn iiuperlinenoe. W<* (i
Darwin, ' Auiniald and Pkiitd under DomcsUctttipn,' i. p. 328, ^ud tw].) »r
Organic Nature protluced by Man's Interference. 377
Kaempfer, IVoiu wiiose opinion I dissent with the greatest
reluctance when I f onskler the thoroughness with which that
model tmvt'lier availed himself of his opportunities, nnd the
abundance of those ojiportuuities themselves, gives us hia views
as to the place in wliich tlio palm in question was first cul-
tivated by man, in the foUowinp^ words (p. 714) of his
' Amo'uitatcs Exottcii*,' Fascic. iv. o, })ublisli(?d in 17l4: "Ejus
patriii in Asia (piidem, nam Afrieuin nou uioramur."
Kitter (' Erdkuude,' TUeil xiii. p. 771j>i'(^y,)eonsiderubly narrows
thia area by .seleeting the Bubylouiau Nabataians in the valley
of the Tigris and Euphrates as having been the people who dia-
covP'"::d and first practised the art of improving the date-palm.
But Professor Kawiiusou, in a letter to me, gives " B.C. IDUt), or
even earlier " as the pos-sible date of a ]jroljubly early Baby-
lonian cylinder figured with palms in his 'Ancient Monar-
chies,' iii. ]i. 23, 2nd ed., aiul ** B.C. 883 " as the earliest date
for Assyrian figures representing palms ; whilst the Egy]itian
Twelfth Uyuasty, which possessed the tree, carries us back
to from 1860 B.C. to 2200 B.C., according to Wiltdnson and
Brugach respectively.
linger, sSitKungsberichte k. Akad.Wiss.Wieu,' Bd.xxiii.Hfti.
p, 2U4, 1857, suggested the countries on the eastern side of the
Persian Gulf as the centre whence in tlie very earliest times
of commerce and international intercourse this plant was
carried over Arabia, iVrsiu, Hindustan, aud North Africa.
But he, in a later Jlemoii*, published after travel in Egypt, tbid.
xxxviii. pp. 75, 104-100, 185!l, quotes Dehle as averriug that,
z'aieat quanium valeat, the Egyptians themselves considered
that Arabia Felix was the original country of the date-palm ;
and by twice (U.cc.) mentJoning the fact that Egypt itself is
called not only the laud of the sycamore, but also tlio land of
the pahu-tree, he would appear to assign the same weight to
that tradition which 1 have felt justilied in tissigning to those
embodied in the Aeeudian Inscriptions. Unger himself suggests,
though very guardedly, that the date may have been inqjorted
into Lower Ironi Upper Egypt. lie is, as such a botixnist
would be sure to be, careful to disclaim any acceptance of tlie
t'Ogency which others have assigneil to an argument based on
the luxuriance of growth whieli tho tree does attain in the
locality in question. '* There is nothing in all this, however.
believe that au y t?tlible or valuable jilutit except iLc Cauax)' graiss bat) been derived
from nu oooiinic or iminliabited ihlaiiil." It i» only jubl init im im|M>Bsibiliry that
tbo dnte-piiliu sluiuld huvo boeii mi ilurived : if it hud licen, this would iDdoed
Imve boeu wuuulliing more surprittiug lliau ull tho tuefiiliieas of thi> tree, tlmu
ull ita l)canty, and erou tluiu nil the blunderH which have been made about it.
378 EoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Aspects of
to hinder us from supposing that the palm does so flourish
there, because iu its migration from tlie north southwards
came in the latter place for the first time upon the soil bt
suited to it." i
Martius, on the other hand (?. i\ iii. 263), uses this vei
argumeut for assi<^ning the oriji^inul site of tho date-palm
the fiouthom part of Tunis, '' lilad el-l)scherid," as he writ
the name of tho locality, h. e. aridu terra, *' falso uuucupe
Bilndulgerid," as he adds, " l\ehd el-Ierid," I may ad<i as name
in Johnston's Royal Atlas in lat. n, 3 r, long. s. 10^ " Qt
loco," says Martius,* " solida? conspit'ieutur palmarum sylviu
ianqiiam in jn-ima patria (jnatx. Earum fiuctus sxuit fr
quentissinii et sapidissiiui."
Professor liobert Hartmann ('Die Nigritier,' pp. 11 G, 11^
187t5) gives the most recent account with which 1 am
(juainted of the date-palm as cultivated iu Africa. Hia rema:
as to tho e.xisteuce iu Africa of really wild forms of Phoen
e.ijf. Pkienix spinosa s. hum ilia, the "Kjom-kom" of Seiie;
with small well-flavoured fruits, and the Phmnix recUtiaiat
very variable form, to set uif against the Pha-nix st/li
indica which has so often, though not correctly, been said
• In the same Afrionn couivrction in Mnrtius's gmnd book I find tho tvo fuUu
ix\g pejssasea, which aro in tlRnnisc'lvos a Ii^birc on tlie extent to wLioh nwu
mollified Uio limdejcape of Southern (Uid Nortborn Africa, both byucclinwtieiugl
nlant-s wirup uatt'ul men-ly, sonw 1)enutiriil, some botli, from "regions Cn?i>ar
Kn(>w." Chiua, niimely, Find America. The luaizc inij^ht have Ix-en uililed
iniportntiiiua upt'i'ilieJ in thosie ijuotutiunt;. Sjx'.ikiii;; of the dutc-|)alui
sajs (p. 2G4) : " Iu Projuontorium Donro Spei intKwlireta, nunc per oali
regionum hortos aporBa et uua cunt SoUiuo ttJjeroto, IVitico rep. oolitur."
U\Si of the Nurth Cuast and the planitirit Tad*r.huriv, he writes : '* Pnltna I
snlcndirliEMimum decuii bylvnruui Ciiri auranlioram qum Opuiitiit oVij
The ]Hiti.ti», the orau^^, iiin) the bolgcti of opuutiaa tiet round them weru i
known to " all tiio world " of the Iklcditurrancuiii as thv gas, the conl, tho glu:
Eitterj, and the ton, coffet-, and tobacco, which, though »<j1*1 by the rjiicier :
ngliah hamlet, and Eoaking up, ati some [»er!«:in8 will nay, but a PhiliKtii
die yet become {ibsolato Deceasfuies of life even to tho uiost cultured of mi
[Since writing aeaboTw I hare met with an Addnws delivered Septouiber 24,
oy the traveller Naeiitijjal before the German Asuocialion for tho Advanc
ofScicueo lU Bftden-Biideu. In this Address, delivered in depreoution of co.tt
BclinueB for tho utilituitiun of »:crt(uit parts of the Sohant, llerr NHchti(;&l i
tliut whiktevi^r other results nii^'ht tn'cnic from tho letting in nf tlio watei
MetJiterrftnean upon the salt marshea of the district rcferri'd to by
cittsl in tho tcTLt iilwve, tho ruin of the date-eultnrc, the most valuable
of tliiit region, would probably be one uleo. For "the date-i«ilin," siiya Hi
Nuchtigftl, " wantM freuii water for it« nxits, Bolar rays for ita crowu. and fc-tus m
mid ntmoHpberic nmisturc. It is well koown that date-plantations in the ncighbog
bond of the sen produce only aecond-rato fniit : and there is some ground t
douHiug whether tho regiomt exposed to tho doulilfiil beuefit* of the Jlc-diU r-
raueuu are really tho regions which produee tlio Iwst dates in the worl.l »i"l
thereby huve earned the t»amu Beled el-Dscherid, that is, literally, tin? 1
tlio I>iite-palni. Would it not be tnah. to endanger a cultivution, the pruuu . i
which ia counted by niilliona of money, for very uncertain result*?"]
Organic Nature produced by Maris Interference.
be botanically indisting^uishable from the cultivated Phaejtim
dacttflifera, are specially valuable. He insists, as 1 Imd also
done, previously to becoming acqiuiinted with bis views, upon
the pnurity uf date, which the Egyptian nKmument.s, with date-
palms figured upon them, can shuw us compared with the
Assyritm or JiahyloniiLii similarly adoraed. The only argument
which I can imagine, I have uot seen or read of its heiug sug-
gested by any one else, tu be likely to be set against this one
based U[M)n the monuments, is one, partly, indeed, based upon
ancient p]gyptian records, imt partly also ui)on stories recorded
for us, with every indication of th«'ir being true, by Herodotus.
It might run thus. Erugsch {cii. Unger, /. t', 1839, p. 1U6.
Geographio der alter Egypten, p. 74) tells us that palm-wine is
enuuierated in the Egyptian Tribute-lists as havLng been one of
the articles received from ISabylouia. Herodotus, i. 193, informs
us that wine was made from dates in Babylonia ; and in a couple
of passages, iii. 20, 22, he relates what has become, since his
tinje, the very commonplace occurrence of a superiorly civilised
assailing an iuferiiirly civilised race Iiy means of strong drink.
He tells us how Cambyses sent a cask of palm-whie, presumably
brought with him from his own country, as a present to the
/Ethiopiane, previously called "blameless" by Homer. The
Egyptians, also, according to Herodotus, ii. 86, employed palm-
wine (probably, when we compare this passage with the others
already cited, from liabylonui) in the process ot embalming.
I havu set up this argument, but I think I miiy knoi-k it down,
and thereby save some of my friends some trouble, by observing
that in Euglaud we ought uot to think that because a country
shows pre-eminent skill iu manufacturing raw material, that
tlierefore that raw material must even have been gi'own, not to
say, originally found growing ivild, in that country. Fusel oil,
Jbr example, a product analogous in its operation to jialm-wiue,
is mainiliu'tured in this land out of potatoes; but potatoes are
not thereby shown to have been lirst cultivated either in Great
Britain or Ireland.
I gatlier from Martins that " Celsius in Hierobotanico operam
dat ut rahestina tamjuam verani hujiis arboris patriam esse
ostendat,"
1, in my turn, venture to advocate the claims of the
Nasamones who dwelt around the south-eastern extremity of
the Syrti^ mujor, n<nv known as the Gulf of Sidra (long. e. ^0'^),
to bo considered as the race which tirst cultivated the palm ;
and with them I should coujile those of the Guram antes of
Fezzan. What I have to say about them is based mainly upon
the apparently truthful and certainly singularly life-like account
380 RoLLEBTOX on Moih'ficutions of the External At})ccU of
which HeroJottia gives of them in three or four passages, L
aud iv. 171*, 182, 1S3, none of which !^[a^tiu.s refi^rs to in
eaimieiatiori of prot'aue writers in contnulistiuetion to the sac:
writers ^^ho meuticm date-palius r'.-ferrod to by Celsius; b
partly also upon a siugle passage of Diodorus Siculue, iiL
We tiinl thus that tlie Nasamunes were a numerous antl powerfi
but certuiuly a vtn-y far from civilisfd people. They couibin<
polygamy WJth [lolyaudry.much as tliL-Massageta^did at the
time. Some of their other practices combine several of the no
of a prisf'au people, such as the veneration of ancestors, and
regard for justice which has made the words Trolloruiu
Eroverbial ; and finally those social feelings wliich are indica
y tlie words, i. 32, di'BpMP Suvaarebjv TratSaf u^pitrra'i,
which Nillson " has averred to be eminently characteristic 01
savages. I subjoin the entire pa.ssiige, iv. 172,t for several
reasons, in the orii^inal Greek ; and 1 submit that a people who
embodied so mufh of wild life in their social condition, could
have learnt little from any of the nations to the east of them,
whether Egyptian, Arabian, iVssyrian. or Persian. But as regards
their dealing with the date-palms, we have this remarkable
st-alement made by Herodotus, iv. 172 and 182 : " In the sumuie^M
they leave their JUx^ks by the sea-side, and go np to the distric^B
Augila, to get in the harvest of the date-palms, which grow there '
in great abundance, and are of great size, all being fruit-bearing."
Now Herodotus, and, as he tells us, i. 193, the Greeks of his
* • Eurly Inlmbitsnts of Scandimivia," Eng. Trans, ed. Lubbock, p. 167, "
tocrucy is strongly ilovdopod amongst nil aava^e rmtions."
t As regiirds ilit; size of the Fezzan dates, the dates of the Gftramant
refeiTcd lo by HitckIoIuh, iv, 1H3, .is living ten days' jonmey from
wcatwards, und bs luivlTig f ojVktu Kapwo<f>6poi wo\\o\ icaT<iirf/> koI iy rotn ir4p
wo havo tho fullowiuf^ iidbruidtion from Dr. Ed. Vogel, ril. Sr^sniftnn, Li
pi». 283, 2SG ; " Tho larseat dato of Fezzan (which is r1»o the be«t) is 21
Purisiau lines and 10 in diiiractiT, tht" sinallest 7i by 5." Lyon, in hia 'Kju
live of Travels in Nortli Africa,' 1821, (i. 72. Iclla us, " tJic date^t of Stckaxi
Fezzau are of a<|t)ality fur 8«i<prior to any prudticud in the north nf AfrioB.'^
HcriHlotua, iv. 172 : Aifffx"^^'^" '• rovruv rh rrpbi i<nrif>ris ^X""^*" Na<ra/*i»
(Byos ihf iroKX6v ol ri 8(pos Kara\tiirorTtt M rp tfoAiiairi) t4 ■np6$arcL, &!•«
vovo'i is AirytAa X'^P""' i^n/pitviiTts rout <fiolinKat' oi H 'koJ<\o\ Koi aifi^i\a^4tf
TTf^vKaai, ■Kotn'ti »Jkt«j Kapwo<p6poC rovs Be &rrtKt0ovs iirtav 97}p*va»t<Ti, avttyairrtf
wpis rhv %Kioy KaToKtouni, icai firtiTo irl 70^0 iTrivaaaovrtt ■wiyov<ri, yiiyalKas ii
IfOlil^oyrfS TToKKas ^x*"* ttaffTov iir'iKBivov aiiriwv ■Koitvyriu ti)v ixi^iV -rpSwip vc^Mi-
rK^viif r^ Kal MatfTayJTOi, ivtity ■TKlirwca rpotrr'fiiniivrai niiryovroi. irpwror t«
•ycLfxtoyros HavatiUvos aviphs vifioi «Vt1 t^j* vvfupijy vvktI rp Tpiirjj 81a irovrtiv
Sif^tKOt'iv raiv S<urvn6yuw liKTyofiivifv' rary 8* ws tifaffrJr oi mx^jj ' ''S"' Siipov T^ ht
ixv <p«p<ff fur ^{ ofwoi'. 'OpKioitri 8i kclI nayrix^ xp**"^"* thijJS*. 'Ofipvotnrt j»i»
Tuus jrapi aip'iinv fivSpaj JixaioTaTuuv Kol api'oTOus Ktyoiiivovs ytviadai, Toirrovi, Ti»
rdfjifiaiy awTifjityut. Mayrtvoyrcu 5i ^irl riv itpoy6y<tiy ^<jiT«otT«j ra triffurra, tat
Kartvlafiiyoi iniKaTaHOififaivrcu. rh i' tw I!i) iy rp ui^«» iyiS^yioy, rovr^i Xv*^"*-
niffTiiri Si roii]<riSt xp^fy'ai' iK T^i X*'f^* hioi irittv, Kal avTiti iK T^» tov iri^
trivtf fjv Ji n)) txoKii liypltv ("l^^'t "' 54 t-^t x'V*'^"' inroBoD AajSdrrtf X«f;(oiMr4,
Ort/anic Nature jnvdticed hy Mans Interference. 381
time generally, were acquainted with the bisoxual dirpciona
charaeter of the pulm and the fig; that the Bahyloninns used
artidcial means for seciiriog the impregnation of the jnsttUiferous
trees he telb us in loeo ; and we know that those hitter were, as
they are (see ' Kaempfer,' I. e. p. (572) still, to bo found in Tersia
and as they are (see * Martins,' /. e. p. 2CA) still in Egypt. 8omo
considerable weight, therefore, may fairly l»e assigned to his
statement, iv. ll'J, to the efiVct that at Angila (as al.so probably,
see iv. If^Ji. in the conntry of the Garamantes) there were iiono
but these latter pistilliferons trees. Of course this statement
would need supplementation by one which he may very well
have supposed his readerij would take for f^nuite*], to the eftVct
that t!ie Niisumoncs (and probably the Uaraniantes) bront,dit the
mnle Howers from a distance, carefnlly selecting those liheraltori
qvodiifii vifjore ae pl^niori habitu, just as Kacmpfer, p. 672,
tells us the Persian date-fanners did ; thin being, in fact, the
whole pretty nearly of what is required in the way of culti-
vating the date-palm. The palms resorted to, at least by the
N.isamones, were large: tliey conld not, tlierefure, have been
wild date-palms; and being thus proved to be more or less
under the care of man, they are, secondly, proved to have been
even more under that care and more ilependent upon it than
cultivated palms elsewhere, inasmuch as the pollen necessary for
fertilising their Howers had to be brought to them from a dis-
tuneo, tlie bridging over of which cuuld «mly be effected by
man's iaterv(;ntifni at tix<jd intervula My argument, in (tther
words, lies in the fact that a tribe, wiiicb, being of very priscan
habits and customs, cannot be sujijwsed to have bun-o\ve<l
much from its more civilised , neighbours, was, nevertheless,
credited in the time of lleroilotiis with possessing groves of
cultivated and exclusively female date-palms, which bore large
and, we may, perhaps, infer, excellent dates, as they still
continue to do.
\Yq have furnished to us in modern times a verifiable liistory
very closely parallel with that which I here suggest; the Elteis
f/uineensis is undoubtedly, as a cultivated plant, an acquisition of
negro minds; and as Hartmann says, Le. p. 118, this acquisition
has been made for us by a race which still ciirries on the practice
of human sacrilices; and that in sight of Eun>pean factories
and EurojK-an steamboats, much as the? Nasaniones, whom
I suppose to have di8<'overcd the cultivation of unother palm,
carried ou their polyandry almost within sight of tiie Egyptian
pyramids. "The thing that hath been is the thing that
shall be,"
The picture before you from Knempfer's 'AmtenitatesEsotiwe,*
382 RoLLESTON on Modifieations of the External Aicpcct» of
p. 711, Tab. iii., Fasc iv. 1711, coupled with his comment*
upon tlie scene of enjoyment which it represents, and in which the
palm-trees play so fssential a part, may remind us of Linnseiui's
ulten-qtiftted saying, " llaii dwelh nutiiraUij within the tropic
and lives on tlie fruit of the palm-tree; he exttfta in other pai._
of the world, and there makes shift to feed on com and nesh."
But it may suggest a little more thau tiiis. It may cause «s
to thiuk seriously un the question what will be, not the offpct
on external nature which man's action will produce, but what
will be the eiiect which external nature will produce upon
mat), if by some rt^crudescence of a glacial period, either in a
geological sense, or iu tbe economic sense, which an exhaustion
of our supply of Nearctie as well as Pahearctic coal would, in the
absence ol'any substitute, bring about, we should be driven south-
wards, and become tropico - in6tea<l of cosmopolitan. What will
he the effect of the easy terms upon which Ufe can be muin-
tained in the tropics upon the species which has hitherto never
developed a lasting civilisation except under tlie stimulation
" cui"is acuens mortalia curda " of northern latitudes or moun-
tain elevation?! How will it fare with intellectual culture
when and where, not to speak any further of our date-palm, the
cocouut-palm, the banana, the breadfruit, will make exertion
go all hut superfluous lor the dnru a dirj^e (jenera who now
govern the world ? If we are to guide ourselves as we peer
into the twilight of the futiu-e by what we can see going on in
the broad Mediterranean noonday of the present, the example
of the idle Corsican is not altogether encouraging. A Corsican
family, we are told by their French fellow-citizens,} with a
couple of dozen of chestuut-trees, and with a herd of goata
which "find themselves,*' to thb great disgust of all botanists
have no iLS[iirutions left to sjitisfy beyond that of being able to
buy a gun, to the great disgust of all sportsmen. In a matter
of prophesying, fcsir, the argument from authority and authorities
has its legitimate place, and upon the present occasion it
happens to have a very legitimate time. 1 have in a work caHH
* Hereditary Geuius,' publislnidin theyear 1869, found it state^H
that " No Englishman of the niueteenth century is purely 1
* " Hi sudI piibuiculariuu in nicssc, ut sic loquar ductylirera Insiu maj^ qfan
laborea, iiputiquiiiu cnni iiii:4trutium agricolaruru tnfinitis oucupationibua cwqh
parundi. Hcia ilias liir lalxirum ! duiu iigrns fflniigiiuus tiiilmTuinttti ct rtsul-
(iitnud; «!iim fx'cnuiua tst timiims, nitK'niuus ut rffarrimus. . . . Secua seutiaj il««
arulircwiiH ilapibus Persiirum ot Arabuoi ; lue gratis omniao et aolo olnue Kuaar»
munoro coiiferuiitur."
t Wttlliice, ' Nntural Sek-ctioii,' p. 318 ; and BouBt«tten, 'L'hommodu Midi et
I'liorornL' dii Nonl,' \^i\i, pattim.
X Helm, I 0. p. 346.
Organic Nature prot/uced by Mans Interference. 383
^
i
nomadic:" and that even the most so among them have also
inliorited many eivitised cravings which are necessarily starved,
and thus entail personal discomfort and create the required
stimulus for their gratification, when thoy are tempted to let
them selves lapse into savage Corsican sloth. In the thonsanda
of years which may yet intervene between us and the necessity
for a southward exodus, these cravings and uneasinesses will
have become more inseparably a part of our nature than even
the most optiraistically-mindcd member of the London School
Board can as yet assert they have become. 1 have not far to
look for another authority who \s'\\\ assure us that the desire
and appetite for intellectual enjuyment may become as really a
"constitutional demand " as those lowur stimuli wliich in "old,
unhappy, far-olf times " enabled man to subdue other gregarious
animals to Ids own uses, and, so aided, to overrun victoriously
the whole globe. Your Secretary, Jlr. iktes, after eleven years
of absence from England, to which tlie world owes his charming
work the 'Naturalist on the Kiver Amazon,' and after seeing
many tribes living in the happy position in which a moderate
amount of light work will produce lor the simple, peaceful, and
friendly people all the necessaries of their simple life (7. c, vol. ii.
p. 1137 of the 3hmdurucu.s), found yet (p. 41 B) "after three
years of renewed experience of England, how incomparably
superior is civilised life, where feelings, tastes, and intellect,
find abundant nciurislimn.'nt, to the spiritual sterility of half-
savage existence, even if it were passed in the garden of Eden.
What has struck me," says Mr. Bates, "powerfully ia the
immeasurably greater diversity and interest of human character
and social conditions in a single civilised nation, than in equa-
torial South America, where three distinct races of man live
together. The snperi(.>rity of the blenk nortii to tropictd regions,
however, is only in tlieir socitd iiapect, for I hold t<> the opinion
that although hutnauity can reach an ativanced state of i-ulture
only by battling with the inclemencies of nature in high lati-
tudes, it is under the equator alone that the perfect race of the
future %Till attain to complete fruition of man's beautiful heritage,
the earth.'* *
• V. Bftcr, who after mnkiug liinmelf in Lis uarlicr years n princ*^ amon^
biologistei, bncame in his LiUt yt-urs a not iucciu-sidi-rable geogruplier, ozpreuMid
himself ill Hii»>-ian »> long agu im l!J4H iu uuu nf the gieugruphioal niauaaU of
tlie Geographical Society of Kuseia tn iniicli tlii- «iiiie effect as tlie two wTiter.s
ftbore quoted. Hid words were tmuulnU'd into Germnn no earlier than 187:1, iiiwl
stand Its foUowa in hid ' Studiun auh duui Ocbietu dur NaturwiBsenscbafto.'
Tlicil ii., Hiilfto i. p. 45-4G :
" Mit rtjclit prophezict daher aus dieser Productionj - Kraft der Tropenwelt
ein geiatreicher liotaaiker, Uurr Meier iu Uonigsberg, daaa der Memcb, in dtir
. - _ i
V- _.
* ..' . . . ', ■..•.; .' i'. . '. '....:.,: •..:•.. -r-.-.-L witiivJU our
»'■■ ■■■' ' I' • •' '/''/..',;. ',. ';.;..•-•;*. .i",-:. i.-.- ;iicr»:'ii5«.<I the
III. »'. ..',: ',•, ' I .i/.;;i.,)i i,.i;,!.i,',<; ■ ,. .V .■^•'.utii A.'ri";aii iravelK'r.
.' •< •'•■' ill. 'fill., .'.II '.III x.'<t f*;piifJi;it,", aii'l wij shall not
. . II -j..' If, I,. Ill- i-.l'j ii.' (< t.\\u,i,,' l'',i/i':-tifratioii ot" Auiiuals,'
'l»."ii l.iliiiM ...,' Ml '■ . . \'''<',.i. )). \22), Inua his owu ubserva-
h'liinl ili< III! • I ,' 11, illy v.il'l hi'- (>r tlio.M! n';rions. that it is not
«<i nil < III ii iiiiiiii -.ol iiii{i|iiii(' :-t .-IS |ifi'.si)iis iiii^lit think;, who
•t ii'Hi I mill III il ii\ iii-'hl liy liif side ol pOols ill that
ih liiii'l I i«iitrliiil liiiw iii.o.iilly ilriiilviu<r, (!ven of water.
h'lnl (■• mill II iiii,i'i\. •• Till' life of till beasts," says that
"
Organic Nature produced by Mans Interference. 385
gimkes dowa to Araclinida in the Invertebrata — than he is in the
picturesque wilds wliore the tiesli-fiirnishitig; Cheviot sheep jiro
so abundantly forthcomiuf^ as to enter even into the laiulscupe.
It were a still greater aud more serious mistake if any one were
to compare, for succulence or sapidity, the flesh-food as yet pro-
curable in the tropics with that which we have furnished us iu
(;very m ell-ordered house, and even hostel, ia the United King-
dom of the chilly aud rainy isles.
The subject is not altogether romantic, as I have already
acknowledged ; there is ttie more reason therefore for putting
its practical side prnmineiitly forward, aud thereby, as we may
hope, doing something, however humble, for the bettering of
man's estate. That it is not altogether visionary to hope for
some improvement in this direction, or to strive to nuike
ivcquisitioDs in the way of domestication under a tropical of
the same kind as tliosc which our forefathers made under a
Central Asiatic stui, the following utteraacu of the lute Dr. J. E.
(tray, of the British Museum, an authority untainted with
enthusiasm, may be taken as showing, speaking at the lSt)4
(Bath) Meeting of the British Assuciation (see Keport of
Address, p. S3, in Transactions of Sections), of our at present
available domestic animals, Dr. Gray said: " An attentive study
of the Hat, smd of the peculiarities of the animals composing it,
induces me to believe that, iti attem[)tiug to introduce new
domestic animals into some of our colonies, it would be desimblo
net to confine ourselves to the European breeds, but to ascertain
uhether some of tlie domestic races of Asia or Africa might not
be better adapted to the climate aud other conditions of the
colony, although for reasons, to which I have before adverted,
it would neither be worth the trouble, nor eousistent with good
policy, to attempt their introduction here.
"There is evidently ample room for such, experiments, which
might be advautageously made, for instauce, in the colonies of
the coiuit of Africa, where our hor*>e, ass, oxen, sheep, aud gouts,
and even dogs, have greatly degenerated, whore tlie horse aud
the ass live only for a brief period, wliere the flesh of tlie ox
and sheep is described as bad and rare, and the flesh of the goat,
which is more common, is said to be t^istekssa and stringy. The
pig alone, of all our domestic auinuds, seems to bear the
change with efiuanimity: and the produco of the * milch pig'
is often sold to passengers of the mail packets, and the shij»s
on the stations, as the milk oi the cow, or even the goat, ia
rarely to be obtained. Unfortunately both the white aud the
black inhabitants are merely sojourners in the land, aud du not
VOL. ,\LIX. 2 C
J
38G KoLLESTON on Moffi/lcations of tlie External AsjHcts of
seem to possess Bufficient energy or inclination to make tl
experimt^nt themselves."
riiere is a more serious aspect or rather prospet^t of cur future
relixtiou tu the animal 'ivorld. lu this realm of activity, as " "
some otLeiH, we liuve of late heen very rupidly extending oc
responsibilities. A man needs not to have spent years in tl
Malay Archipelago as fllr. Wallace has done, nor in the rei
dilfeiciit surroundings of Siberia as Middendoi'fl' lias done ; noij
Sir, in those of South Africa, to be convinced that the nurabei
of domesticjited jiuiiiiiilx, 1 do not say of species of domesticate<
animals, will nssuredly, and at no such very distant period, gain
a relative magnitude of wliich our foiefnthers, who so patientlj
won them fur ns from sayagery, could have had no concept ioi
And that earlier than the attainment of tliis rehitive prepond*
uuce, the domestic animals ttii tliis worlds surface will be nearly
tlui only hirge larid uninials h^ft upon it. and that the wihl on<
will bo but pignjy vermin, '■ mitziije UngezirferJ' m 3Iiddeudorr
vrords, or, at least, less noble animals, in equally evident. For
example, we can see as regards the lion, the king of beasts,
that the breech-loafiing rine is now rapidly completing Avhat
the smooth-bore, with flint and steel, began ; for whereas he
loses his life l»y bis boldness in coming out into the open, we
have in one part <if the old world the tiger, and in another the
byajna, substituted for him, a change in neither case much or
at all lor the better.
I have no reason for doubting that in these days we all con-
sciously strive to act up to what has been spoken of, though not
wholly correctly, as "the new comniiuidment uf the uinet*^enth
century," '• 'J'liou shalt not be cruel ;" and I sincerely trust that
as regards all animals, domestic and wild, whether in the fieU*
or in the .stnicts and shambles, whether in the woods or within^
walls, this cuminundment may, like some others, attain greater
extension in practice, as its many-sided ap])licability becomes
more and mure manifest. But I think that, even without our
intending it. the extension of iloniestication has increased the
sum total of lo\ver animal happiness. A South African traveller*
Sir, whose authority you will not repudiate, and wo shall nc
even question, has told us (Gallon, ' JKiniestication of Animals^
Trans. Ethuu, Sou. iii. N.S. ISU"), p, 12'2), from his own observj
tiou of the still very really wild life of those regions, that it is not'
after all such utunixed happiness m persons might think, who
have never crouched by niglit by the side of pools iu that
thirsty laud, and watched how nightly driukiug, even of water,
may lead to much ruisei-y. " Tho life of all beasts," says that
I
Orf/anic Nature produced by Man's Interference. 387
writer, "in tlieir wild state, is au exceedingly anxious one.
From my own recollection, I believe tlmt every antclo2>e in
South AtVicii lias to run for its lite every one or two days ujwn
an average, und that he starts or gallops under the influence of
a false alarm many times in tlie day." Snrely whatever the
biped, who can foresee and ponderate, may think of the lot, and
the future of the domestic Ruminants, their lot, to themselves,
as they are not troubled with anticipations, totals up an ag-
gregate of comfort and even of enjoyment far exceeding that
which the majority of wild graminivorous creatures of similar
bulk ever obtain. A flock of well-fed Cheviots, on a snowy
moor, iu all their hornlessness and lielplessuess ivs against
violence, sliows the traveller that he is in a country whence
wolves have entirely diaiiftpoared ; would tlieir lot bo happier
if they were exposed not merely to the winds and elects of
'Northnmbrin, but also to the attat^ks of wolves to which even
in France and Germany they would be liable?
We need not, Iiowever, travel in .South Africa, as you have
done, to prove the point that dog-fights and bull-lights, cockpits
and shambles notwithstanding, domesticatiou has, on the whole,
increased tlie sum of tiie happiness of the lower animals. Let
U3 by an easy efibrt of imagination figure to ourselves what
would become of the flocks and herds of siieei) and oxen, " even
very much cattle," which are now living with as large a share ol
enjuyments as, and a very much larger share of leisure at least
than many of their masters, if those mastera were one and all to
be swept away by some epidemic. 8upf>ose,as Dr. Kob<3rts in his
memoir on * Spontimeous Generation ' (p. 'AH) has suggested, that
the ferment which produces some one or other of our worse forms
of infectious disease should " sport," as it is playfully styled, or
vary, as ii peach may sport or vary into a nectarine ; and then
sup^wse that the increased malignity and infiictiousness with
whicli it might thus become endowed, should ns entirely destroy
our own species within tlies(j Isltmds, as of late years disease
has been known to entirely depopulate certain Polynesian ialeta,
or as some analugoasly-developed disease may be supposed to
have exterminated the horse in South America witiiia recent
geological periods. There can be very little doubt in the mind
of anybody who luus much experience of the power of combi-
nation for mischief which dogs can, independently of men,
develope, even iu a civilised and thickly populated country,
that in a few days after our disappearance tliey would be
masters of the country. The mere desire for blood which is
so eminently characteristic of the musteline carnivores would
very shortly aud oertaiuly show itself again in our old servants
2 c 2
in their Saturnalia; aiul in a vory short time the entire rac«|
of sheep, exwpt in a few mountain districts, would have beeaj
as wusu'fully shiuuhlcrod for their bhx)d and fat as tlooks au<"
herds have been and etill nre shxughtered by us in Australia orl
»South Aniericu. Oxi*n vvonhl hold nut a little h)uper thiia^
sheep, and pifis, 1 incline to think, longer than either. Bui
that a great dlmiuntion oi" the sum totid of brute enjojTneutJ
and, if Buch a thing there be, of bmte happiness also, m^ouU
take place after we had disappeared, I think needs no demonsti
tion, esjieeially to anybody who, without any experience of any
canine mutiny, has ev»:'r studied \]u' jfhenoniena of a dog-shoi
or lifitened at night to the opcnt which its denizens perfor:
The various rtices which, without exactly being domesticatedJ
stand yet on the borderland sepai-ating wild from domesticate
life, would also very shortly and very sharply have brought botiH
to them the fact of their being more dependent on man Hit
perhaps either they or \\c have entirely recognised. Kabbil
and harep, pheAHants and partridges, if they had reason, woulc
reasonably regret the times when they viewed, with somethiu|[^
}>erhaps of disgust, the slouching form of the gamekeeper with
lis double-barrelled t<hot-guu. perambulating the ridings in the-j
woods and skirting their sunny buiinrluries. Cats and weasel*
would with little less delay tium the dogs make the life of
qnadnjpeds just specified as inisorflbhr as that of the sheep anc
ox had already been inn'h; ; and wouhl, ufter the lapse of u yearJ
or two, with the aid of hawks and corvidse of several kiiic'
greatly thin their numbers. The river embankments ou th«
btwin- Tluinie-;, lastly, whteh excited the admiration of Sir'
Christopher Wren, and were referred b\ luni to the time of tli«
Romans, and also those on many other rivers, having no onoJ
to re[)iur any of the breaches winch floods would make in thenitl
would before very long allow a very large acreage of laud to
become swamp, maj-wh, and luguue; not only thus, on the one,
hand, depriving tnnuy s[iecie8 of animals of their means o
subsistence, but als<i on the other introducing jiredatory birds
feUfh as gulls, and accelerating the tlisappearance of muuj
others which really hold their own in hucli neighbourhood^
even now only hy man's protection and thanks to his presence.
The purview of this prDpliecy extends no further than thf
precincts of the British J6hinds; in contineutid countrim
organic nature would more comtdrtely resort to the conditicu ijj
was in before it began to be modilird by man's interference; tli^
Itefjnuin Bom hi I'tf would not be succeeilejj by ihe Rtijnuni Canui
fainillariniiit but by that of Canum Inpvrum ; and geuerallj
the larger fene naturtr, both those which eat others and tlu
which are eaten by others, would reaurao an importance even in
the lantlficnpe whicli tlieir ostirpation vvitliiii our fonr seas
has rcndereri an iitipossilnlity for all future time short of the
time when tlie Channel will on<'o nn^ain ber^ouie dry land.
In concluding a Lecture the title of which might serve for the
often-to-be-repeated title of many successive and closely printed
volumes, let me take as a text the following words from Victor
Helm's book, * Kulturpflanzen luid Hausthiere/ 'M'd edition,
1877 ; Berlin ; p. 435), t^j which I owe more even than I have
expressed : " Was die Muderue Welt von der aUen unterseheidet
ist Natiirvvissenschaft, 'rechnik nnd Natunilukuraio;" what
makes the modern worhl Uj difier from the old is natural
science, command of apparatus, and political economy. As
reganls this last differential peculiarity, 1 have to remark
that Herr Victor liehu'e last edition hears the date of 1877,
and that, consequently, lie cannot have had colonial tarilTs
either of Melljounio or of Cana<la before his eyes; nor, though
living in Et-rlin, could he have hcanl tbo words uttered there
oaly ten days ago, though they wore in an authoritative voice
(Beo 'Times,' May 2nd); nor, finally, could he have been
present at a meeting attended in Paris by tlie representatives
of no less than fifty-eight Chambers of Commerce on the
very day hefore, the first, that is, not of April, but of Mny in
this very year of grace 1879. Otherwise I rnnnttt but think
that Herr Hehn would not have Buid the political economy of
the present, either as put out in words, or jw carried out in
practice, Wiis so very diffc'rent from that of ancient times. To
any one at all thick of siglit or hard of heuritig the proportions of
any such diirerence are wholly inappreciable. I turned to what
was one of the favourite studies of my youth, my Aristophanes,
and I fitid J 'icaiopoli^i, to adapting whose name Prince Bismank
would, I appreliend, as litJlu ubjcet as it would seem he doe;; to
his adoptiug his principles, sighing (in the Aeharniane, 1. 3^-36)
for the time wlieu he would get back to his farm * the articles
consumed iu which at least were "reservoJ for native industry."
* Ariatoph. Aobarn. 3S-3G.
rij' J* tfti>y Si}fiOv TtoOuv
ftr aiiSfTwiror' tlitttt LvOpaxax vplu,
oAA' outoi (<fttpf irdma x^ trpluv airr,y.
Oato and Varro appear, acconling to the pnHsagcH given iu Helm, p. 425, to hftve
hiwn similarly in thv ilark, tiio lirct of tlif»e averring, i, .% iu wonts very nmrly
iiifiriwlucinw tlint of Dii'mrtpoli*. '• Patri'm famslias vcndawsm non omncem ea«o
npfirtt'l." wbiUt tlio latttr. 1, 22, 1, in words wbicli tlio (JhumbLra of Commerce
nforttsaid n'-eclioi-ti in tlicir inrHliliLMi Ilimnn tonguf, ** Qua) uiwri in t'uiulQ sc fieri
iv Ooniesticis jwtcrunt. oorum no qniil cmntnr,"
390 EoLLESTON on Modifications of the External Asqtectt of
The amount of diflFerenee between those views and those of the
statesman just mentioned, or those of M. Pouyer-Qnertier, or of
anotlier countrymau of MM. Quesnay, Turgot, and Chevalier
T?ho is reported iu the same ' Times * of Friday, May 2ud, no
time haviner been lost in givin^j; those vahiable views to the
■world, to have averred that an increase in the imports denoted
the iiiijjov^erislinient of a country ; I must, as did Cajjtain
Lemuel Gulliver under somewhat similar circmustanct^H in
Laputa, profess myself to Ije " not skilful enough to com-
prehend," What is shown seems to me to be that in modern,
not less than in ancient times men will run their heads a^ain^
the multiplication taMe, und that for tlie ptissing moment, af
least, it is not always the heads which come off second besfeS
iu the encounter.
Of the second diflerence between the old world and the new
which our command of nietliods and means, our recognition of
the futility of atteuipting enterprises with a niamis niuia and ni
infelh-^tus itili 2>er»i?.w«s, has created, the gas, glass, and coa
around us in this room speak, and I need not.
As reffards the third great poiot of contnist upon which Hei
Ilehn insists, that of naturid science, we are all probably at on<
with him. Our agreement may be illustrated by contrtistii
tlie different factors which two poets, each an artist cajiable ol
taking a wide view with due perspective and proportion of the
sum of man's activities, liave in ancient and modern times
respectively enumerate*! as making up thrtt sum. When Juvenal
speciiies what he means by *' (^uidquid agunt homines," the
comprehensive title of his saiiros, he enumerates nothin<
because, I suppose, he considered all else as beneath the dignity^
of a poet, but
" Votiun, timor, ira, voluplas,
Gandia, discurana " —
large enough matters, but imponderables all of them. Contrast]
these items, — 1 purposely speak iu Philistine phniseology — witlil
those which our present Poet-Laureate enumerates in epexef^esiaJ
of the " march of mind ;" there we have the line :
' Iu the ateamsliip, in tLo railway, in tbu tlioaglita that «huke mankiud "
. — ponderables and im[x>nderables severally holding tlieir due
mutual pi-oi)ortiou. And from this line I cuji pass in this place
by a natural and locally .suggested transition to what 1 bolievud
be as large a diflerence between the ancient and modem]
world as either of the two hist touched upon. The whole of
the old Avorld, of the orhis Vctct'ihm twtnn, of Trd<ra t) olKovfiaiijA
Orrjanir Nature producetl hj Mari's InterferrrK^.
was but a small fragment as nieasiirod Ly the geographer
when compared with tho world dealt with our emigration
agents and (.Uastom-house (lilfieers. Tho dtHcovery of America
has been said to have exercised much the sort ut" influence upon
the old world, Bocially und pjliticnily, that the approximation
to our globe of some uQVi planet would exercise astronomically ;
and since those *' spacious times of great Elizabeth " China,
Japan, Australia, and Polynesia have each entered into the
circle of influences acting upon and acted on by the world as
known to tlie claHsical writers. In speaking of any district
beyond those in relatiou with the valleys of the Euphrates, the
Danubt?, the Rhine, the Ithoue, and the short^s of tho Meditcf'
ranean and Black Sea, the aucieuts would but say in really
patlietic antithesis :
" Longa procu! longia via dividit invui torria."
The Brindisi mail brings every manager of a museum, as well
as every secretary for tiie colonies, into Aveekly relation with
"regions Cfesar never kiunv," by agencies of whicli ho never
dreamt and of which in our own times the greatest jierhaps of his
successors, fortunately for us, as he is reirorted to have remarked
in I'lymouth Sound, never learnt to avail himself. And it is
in reference to the all-pervading intercommunication which the
application of steam to navigation has rendered possible that
I wish to utter two conchidiug sentences, not respecting the
va.st contrast which it has set up between the present and all
preeediug centuries, but respecting the contrast which it will
shortly have created between the present and all future times.
Before this application had established highways on tho ocean
and invented machinery which
"Spiimiiif; sails and scomitig o«rs,
Keeps faith witli limo aa dibtant ahoreK,'^
it was possible on many an oceanic island to recover links
which had falhai out of the chain of evidi^nee as to the origin
of species which the older and larger continents of dry laud
had furnished ; it was possible also to elucidate the origin,
humble and lowly enough, of our own civilisation by what we
could see, and ut«t less by what we might fail to discover, in
the inchoate civilisations, in similar localities, of semi-savage
men. The lines of intercommunication between tho most
distant parts of onr globe, which the navigator with, in his
own language, "a steam-engine under his loot," is daily weaving
into a more and more nearly all-encompassing web, will very
I
S92 Noffs upon some Astronomical Ohscrvtilions
shortly liave iiitmdticed so much of the most recent result
of our modern civilisatiou into what were but lately the mog
Bednded of loeaiitics as to rob them nf that value and interei
for the pursuers of the knowledge specified, which they up toi
few years ago so eminently possessed.
These few years — for they will be but few — to come, have
great responsibihty put upon them in tlie way of preservii
those pi-rishable and destructible links in the histoiy of th^
pasf, whicli niav bo madn incandescent and luminous for thi
advancement of knowledge, and to some uot iucousiderobJ
extent for the benefiting of man's estate.
In this work the Society, which has honoured me by invitii
mo to address them this evening, has borne a distinguishc
part in the ]ia3t, and I carmot doubt, but, on the contrai
have many reasons for believing, that it will bear an increasingl
iiMpoitant one in the future.
V, — Notes njwt someAntronom/Cid Oht^ervntwna matU in KortJofa
and Darfur, By Jlujor II, (I. FnouT, Corps of Engiiieei
Egypt inn (Jeneral Stafl^,
[("(tmmiiiiicuUiJ Ijy Genera! STOifE, Chief of tho Staff, Cairo.]
[With Map.]
I, KOKDOFAN.
Kliartum, — The position of Jvhartum was fixed as follows
The latitude was oblsiiued from circiini-mfridian altitudfs takeaJ
Avith a sextant and artificinl IioHkou. 8ix dilfercut stai-s werej
olisprved. A tutal of sevonty-geveu observed altitudes wa»|
tnki'ii, thirly-five south ctf tlie zeidtli, and fortv-two north.
Tht- final mean was 1.7" ;J7' On"'GS ; the gi-eatest single result
was imm a north star, viz., 15° 38' 20"; tlie least single result
was from a south star, viz., 15° 36' 26" — a range which indicateaj
a cnnHidernble error of occenlricity, the etVeots of which arej
disngreeably evident in tlio longitud** delorminiitions.
The longitude of Khartum was deteiinined liy lunar distanoeal
of Jupiter and Antares eiist, and Pollux and Itegnlus west ofj
the moon. Twenty-two groups of distances were taken, eacbf
group consisting of three observed distances. The distaocc
oust were about pqnid in nnml>er and ])Osition to the distancett]
\vcst. The liual HK^an wiia '^h. 11 m, 34-<Jl s. (;i2' 53' :i\i''2) ea«
* -•
"W*"*"^* ♦*• »-■ ••^■•^ ^«
made in Kordofan ami Darfur. 393
of Greenwich ; the greatest single result was 2 h. 13 m. 27"6 s. by
Jupiter east ; the least single result was 2 h. 08 m. 59 s. by
Pollux west — a range of 4 m. 27 s. of time. Possibly it is con-
siderably better than any previous determination of this lon-
gitude. It is due to the observer to say that he had but one
sextant, therefore synchronous observations of distance and alti-
tude were impossible. The sextant had an error of eccentricity
varying greatly and irregularly for different parts of the arc ;
but I had not time to make the observations necessary to
determine this error with suflBcient exactitude. The only
formula) and tables at my command for reduction were those in
Bowditch's * Navigator,' edition of 1868.
El Oheiyad. — The latitude was obtained from circum-
meridian altitudes of stars north and south of the zenith.
Thirty-eight observed altitudes were taken, giving a final
mean of 13' 10' 04"'04. The greatest single result was from
a nortl) star 13° 10' 43"'6 ; the least was from a south star
13° 09' 53." The probable error of the final mean I have not
computed ; but it will certainly be but a few seconds.
The longitude of El Obeiyad was determined by lunar dis-
tances, and by eclipses of Jupiter's satellites ; and, like the lon-
gitude determinations at Khartum, it is very unsatisfactory.
Careful observations were obtained of the sun on September 29,
1875, which, when computed, will give a valuable check on the
longitude.
Lunar distances were taken of Mars and Jupiter east, and
of Mars, Jupiter, and Regulus west ; in all thirteen groups of
observed distances each ; and three observations were obtained
of .Fupiter's satellites. The final mean is 2 h. 03 m. 26*24 s.
(30" 48' 33"-6) east of Greenwicli. The least single result is
1 h. 57m. 31 s. by a western distance ; the greatest is 2 h. 05m. 36 s.
by an eastern distance. The mean by the satellites of Jupiter
is 2 h. 03 in. 5787 s. The increased range in the single results
is probably due to the fact that it was thought better to
attempt no correction of the observations for eccentricity,
but to trust to a careful selection of the east and west
positions, so that they should be about equal in number and
distance.
Here, as at Khartum, the observer had no assistant to observe
the altitudes, nor any of the improved tables or formulae for
reduction.
No attempt was made to determine independently any other
longitudes than those of Khartum and El Obeiyad; but all
the longitudes on the map liavo been referred to those two
394
Notes upon some Astronomical Ohserratiom:
points. The longitudes of all points on the Nile, and for some
ten miles west of tho Nile, deiK-nd ujtou Khiirtnm ; all other
longitudes depend upon El Oljeiyad. It follows, then, that
when the longitudes of Khartum and El Obeiyad are deter-
niined by electric telegraph (which might now be tlone)^ the
corrections of all the longitudes of the map can be cosily
ninde.
The material for the construction of the map has been
obtained from tho frdlovving reconnaissances, viz.: —
Major I'rout : Kliurtimi to El 01>eiyad, 2fl2 English miles.
Major Front: El Obeiyad via Hemaoui and Megn<5nis, to
Gebaf Kagga and return iiid Meguonis and Abou iSeuoon, 275
miles.
Major Prout : El Obeiyad to Dar Nouba, Gebal Tagalla, and
the White Nile, and rciturn by Gebal Kohn, 575 miles.
Adjutant-Major Haindv, actinir under the orders of Colonel
Colston : Es .Safy to El Obeiyatl" UXJ miles.
Adjutant-Major Homdv: El Obeiyad to Ferege and return,
221 miles.
Adjutant-Major Harady: El Obeivad to Shershare, thence
easterly to iShogeg, and return via Khoursi, 354 miles.
Lieutenant Yussiif Helmy and Lieutenant llidiel Fouzy :
El Obeiyad to El Birkeh, thence via El Rahad to Gebal Kohti
and return, 25! J milew.
Two expeditious to Abou Harraxe and Gebal Abou Senoon.
In all these expeditions the linear distance has been deter-
mined by the time of mun.'biiig, and the direction by the
prismatic compass. It is unly on the routes of Major Prout
that any astronomical checks have been made; still these
have often been snftieient to give some Blight control of tho
positions determined by the variou.s. officers, and to convince
one that tho work witli prismatic compass and watch has been
carefully donc.
The astronomical checks on the routes of Major Prout have
been — Ist. Latitude by direct determinations ; 2nd. Longitudes
by computed difierenee of longitude between two jX)iuts, liaving
the difference of latitude and the azimuth of the lino connecting
tho points.
Lntitndes. — Li the entire area of the map, the positions of
whii'h the latitudes have been indejiendently determined, »ire
twenty-one in number. The following ia a list of the position^^
with the number of the observations, the bodies observed, and
the mean result : —
made in Kordqfan and Darjur,
395
Place.
No. of
Obaerva-
tlMU.
Body Observed
(X. or S.).
Mean Remit.
Khartum
Tim El Hadra
Bara .. ..
El Obeiyad ..
llegudnis
Gonmbarra (Gebal Katoul)
Bit Soderi (near Kaggn)
Fertangoal
ElBlrkeh
EnNila
El Bahotl
Wodelka.,
Takobft ..
Shirkeleh .. ..
Muaouelo
FakiKohi .. ..
Karanak
Dueme (El Dooaim)
GcbalKohn .. ..
Taiarra ..
Gebal Kordofan
77
20
25
35
19
I ^^
1 "
j 22
! 12
■ 25
11
12
24
20
39
15
27
22
22
16
y UrasB Maj.,
$ Corvi,
/3 Urssa Mia.,
/3 Scorpii,
n Draoonis,
,a Ursffi Maj.,
iy Ursffi Maj.,
[P Corvi,
a Libra:,
P Soorpii,
71 Ursa) Maj.,
<P Ursffi Min.,
\p 8oorpii,
f/3 Draconis,
y Draconis,
Mars,
(7 Draco.,
(Mars,
Mars,
fa Gassiopetn,
[P Ceti,
fa Casalopalee,
fi Ceti.
n;
8.
N.
8.
N.
N..
N.^
8./
fi Ceti.
(a Cassiopeia),
\Sun,
8un,
Sun,
fSun,
\a Persci,
fSun,
\a Pensei,
fSun,
\a Persel,
Sun,
fSun,
\a Persei,
fSun,
\a Persei,
fSun,
\o Persei,
Sun,
8./
N.
N.
S-
N.l
8./
8.
8./
N.\
s./
l\
1}
8.
8.
8.\
N.)|
8.1!
N./
8.1
N./
8.
5:}
I:}
I:}
8.
15 37 04
20 17
42 13
10 04
50 18
12 87
25 25
54 37
33 03
12 21
12 40 40
14 41
22 34
48 24
02' 14
23 3(;
46 41
59 30
12 35
13 01
04 56
390
Notes upon some Astrotiornical Observations
In every instance the error of the limopiece used in the
observations has been determined witlt fiulTiriont pre<'ision.
The observations liave been taken on both sides of the
meridian, and witliin ten minutes of the time of culmina-
tion, and tlie reduction to the meridian lias been made by the
» , J / . cos L cos 7)\ . ( ■ cos Jj cos Z)|^ ,
Jormniax = /i:(t J — wj tan a U ^ — , where
\ cos a, ' I COS a I
7 2 sin* i p 2 eiri* i « ^.^,0 , t\ t t i
sm 1 sin 1
latitude, J) = dech'natJon of body, p = it? lionr anp;le, and
cc = eorrectiun in seconds. The vahies of /*• have been tiikon
troni Lee's Tables. In the reductions the second term
(m tau a \i ' l) has not been used.
^ I cos a ) f
Tlio bodies oLscrved have been so chosen that the altitudes
north ttf t!i(i zt^iiith wero nearly equal in number and j>osition
to tlioso south of the zt'uitli. thus elimitiating, as far as praotieuble,
instrutaental errors. In jill cast-swliore the error of eoc-entricity
was not thns eliminated, the latitude lias been corrected for
that error as de<Un'ed from other observations.
Not only have the bodies been carefully selected, and the
methods of rwliiction hevu the most fxact practicable, but each
individual altitude wiis iakcu with couFcitntious care. Jn tho
whole nnmbr.T of observations madn, probably not more than six
observed altitudes were rejectml in the final computations, and I
havo no hesitati'in in presentiug the results as worthy of great
(confidence.
L(m<iif.u(hs, — The positions connected in longitude with El
Obeiyad by the method of the difference of latitudes and
observed azimuths arc —
1. Gebal Abon S^enoon,
2, ffeliiil Mcpucnis,
ii Rinimlirtrm (Uclial Katonl),
4. (jreLal Ka^o;a,
6. (lebal Konlolau,
fl. FerlixugoiU,
7. El Hahjul,
8. GelMil Dnicr,
n. Wadilka,
10. Gelxil Kwlin,
11. Taianii,
dcteiinincd from El Olwiyad.
„ Abou ScnctD.
,, Alx»u Sonoou.
„ KftUiul.
„ Kl ( Jbeiynd.
„ G. Konlofan.
„ G. Kordofan.
^ G. Kordofftn.
„ Gelial l)aier.
„ Gebid Dalcr.
„ Gelwl Daitir.
I do not ask much confidence in the longitudes of the ma]
Th<> (k'teniiiuations just mentioned liavn a certain value as
checks upon tlic work with prismatic compass and watcli. Tliev
urn more exiiet tlian any independeut determinations which \
13
86
25
13
30
29
13
36
27
made iti Kordofan and Darfiir. 397
might have made by lunar distances or eclipses, except by a
lonj? series of observations ; for such a series I had not time.
The principal sources of errors in these determinations are —
1st. They are affected by errors in tJie longitude of the initial
j)oints.
2nd. The azimuths were determined with a magnetic compass
too small for great precision ; and only at El Obeiyad was the
magnetic declination accurately known.
3rd. It was often (usually, in fact) impossible to get the
azimuths between precisely the same points at which the
latitudes had been found.
II. Route from El Obeiyad to El Facher.
The position of El Facher has been determined as follows : — •
For Latitude hy Oircum-Meridian Altitudes, N. and S.
Lieut.-Colonel Mason .. 40 Observed Altitudes
Major Prout 100 Observed Altitudes
Mean adopted .,
For Longitude by Edipaea of Juintei^s Satellites.
^- I II a I II
Lieut.-Coiouol Mason .. 10 Observatious ., 1 41 35 = 2f) 23 45
Major Trout ., .. 7 Observations .. 1 41 37-8 = 25 24 27
Mean adopted.. .. 1 41 36-4 = 25 24 06
(Kaat of Greenwicli.)
As the observations of Colonel Mason were entirely inde-
iiendent of my own as to instruments and methods of reduction,
L think that the results are remarkably close and perfectly
reliable.
On the route from El Obeiyad to El Facher no attempt was
made to determine longitude ; but the latitude was found at
three intermediate points.
In the final plotting of the prismatic compass line, the total
error was distributed over the whole line; and the errors in
latitude between the astronomical stations were distributed over
the lines between these stations.
Note. — In constructing the map of Kordofan and Darfur accompanying tho
above paper, advantage has been taken of other reconnaissauces made by officers
of the Egyptian (jeucral Staff, besides those mentioned by Major Prout. These
are generally beyond the area embraced in the map of Kordofan compiled by
him, or have been made subsequently. They arc as follows: —
Major Prout : El Obeiyad to El Facher.
Colonel Colston : Dabbe to El Obeiyad.
398
IrmiNGER — Zeno*s Frislanda is Iceland
Colonel Pnnly : Old Dungola to El Fachor; upon wbich the det
lions of Uititudes aud lougilndos were niadu l>y Licut.-Colonel Uiusun.
Lieutenant-Colonel Mason : El Facbur to Gcbal Mwlob, nnd return.
Capiiun Muhmoud Siimi, under the orders of Colonel Purdy : El Fiicbor i
Kl Toucchn, and return.
Lieutenant Mabir, under the orders of Major Prout: From El Fa
round Gebal Marrah, and return.
W. J. TuiUfEB, U.O.I
VI. — Zeno's Frislanda is Iceland and not ilie Faroes,
Admiral Irmingeti.
[With Map and Diagram.]
Amoxo the voyages of discovery of former times, few ha"
excited more attention among (Teographers than the vovii2:e§
of the Venetian nobles, the brothers Nieolo and Antonio Zeno,
to the northern seas, tow ards the close of the fourleenth centur\' ;
an account of which was published under the title of * Dello
8coprimento dell' Isole Frislanda, Eslanda, Enuronelandn,
Estolilanda, e Icaria, fatto per duo fratelii Zeni. M. Nicolo il
Cayaliere, e M. Antonio,' with a map, * Carta da Navegar de
Nicolo et Antonio Zeni furono in tramontami lano MCCCLXXX.'
The latest edition of this work, including tho original and an
English translation, with notes and iutroduetiou, is that bj^J
Mjp. R. H. Major, published in 1873 by the Hakluyt Society. ^^
Many eminent scholars and critics have discassed the /eno
narrative ; some arriving at the conclusion that it is untrust-
worthy or even fictitious, and others that it has much merit.
Humboldt siys : " On y trouvo de la candeur et des descriptions
detaillee.9 d'objets, dont rien en I'Europe no pouvoit leur avoir
donne I'idee."*
As I have been frequently iti those watera, and, besides
sailing in the open sea between the islands, liave stayeil for a
long time in Iceland and the Faroe- islands, the old narrative
of the Zeni has been from an early date of interest to me,
atid I have followed the later criticisms of it with constui
attention. _
»S(jme few years siniro, I took occasion to iuform the eminent
freographer, Mr. Clements Markham, that my conception of
various points in the Zeno voyage did not agree with that of
Mr. Major and Admiral Zahrlmaun, especially with regard
to their identiJieatiou of the mystic *' Frislanda " with tlie
•* Fjeroe-isiands." 1 now take the liberty of submitting to the
Uukluyt edition 187St Introduction, i:t.
and not the Faroes.
399
I
Royal Geojjfrapliical Society tlie grounds on wbich I differ from
the above-named autliorities.
1 will give, first, my critical annotations to Mn Major's various
Btatemeuts, and then my individual opinion as to the solution
of the question in its entirety, constantly referring to tho
Hakiuyt Society's edition of 1873.
<■
At page 6 we read the following : —
" Zic'hnini then, being such as I have dejieribed him, was a
Vfarlike valiant man, and especially famous in naval exploits.
Having the year before gained a victory over the King of Nor-
Iway, who was lord of the island, he, being anxious to win
n'uovvn by deeds of arms. Imd come with his men to attempt
tbi< conquest of Frislaudu, which ia an island somewhat larger
til an Ireland, Whereupon, seeing that Messire Kicolu was a
man of judgment, and very experienced in matters both naval and
miliUtry, he gave him permission to go on boai-d his fleet with
all his men, and charged the captahi to j)ay him all respect,
and in all things to take advantage of his advice and experience.
Tliis fleet of Zichmni consisted of thirteen vessels, whereof two
only were rowed with oars, tho rest were small barques and one
ship. With these they stiilod to tho westwards, and with little
trouble gained possession of Ledovo* and I!of"e"|" and other
small islatida in a gulf called Sndero, where, in the hnrbour of
the country called Sanestol,| they captured some small barques
laden with salt Jish. Here they found Zichmni, who came by
land with his array, conquering all the country as he went.
They stayed here but a little while, and making their course
still westwards, they came to the otber capo of tho gtdf, and
then turning again, they fell in with certain islands and lands
which they brought into possession of Ziclitimi. This sea,
through wbich they sailetl, was in a manner full of shoals auel
rocks ; so that bad Messire Xieolo and the Venetian mariners
not been their pilots, the whole fleet, in the opinion of all that
were in it, would have Lveen lost, so inexperienced were Ziehmni's
men in comparison with ours, who had been, one might say,
born, trained up, aiul grown old in tin? art of navigation. Now,
the Ik'ct having done as described, the. captain, by the advice
of Messire Xicolo, determined to go ashore at a place called
Bondendon,§ to learn what success Zichmni bad had in his wars,
and there, to their great satisfaction, they heard that he had
fought a great battle, and put to ilight the army of the enemy;
in consequence of which victory, ambassador were sent from
Little Dimoa.
t Skud.
; Saudd.
§ Nordcidfilil.
T.
'.nr- •:" " .- >"..i::: :; 7:.'::.-:- :—.".rj-z-. iz.:-- Li; ii;in'i:,
- _• 1 -- : .ri: ~Z'.j-> ." -i'-'j : -- -.. i vill^jii. They
.->: tltT:-: -•: ":■:• ■•::.j '.- ':. : ;. 1-. 'r : i-jit hi* •>'>inia|:,
-.jl-. Kr-jlizil >^:-liiL N:r -v. ^\1 I'zL".:\:i. an: bv this
A* Z:.'::i:-: : ' ' .1. >.\,r.~s'..:l >[.;.:'•? szi Zji.rmianii's
i'. : - i-.i: ';..i-r '.-.l ■:■:. :_-• Sirir •;-.ti:::.u= i.i:id as tiie
i-:- ::;- -'-vir :..- LjL ; ■ir::.v-r: :l.;:Lrr. The island
ill:. :Lr "_-".. •.'_::'.■. I r-'-Vyrl: Ljv- :r.iTr".l^ twi.>? from
TtL :: r.":l-. .-.lI im ti--r^::rr »rli •. -:~iiLtr-i with the
V— <i'--TV..: _-? .: " >-:. :." ar.uu..i a small
.: :jL rn- :.r 5.::r.rr:. wici?. uhioli
■ r.TaTv ifi --.j-iir.*: :hr i.ind. Un that
.l: :« siii i :■:• ■t '.-::li L:< arxv.* Frr'm
sii :. b"' ■ ■ r. . ' .: -.i r.:-: iKtiV.'. ij •■o.ttt
-.'.-/::.:■•*;. :.. : tl-.^t ..-^ ti.- F^.r-.e-i^lauil?
'■".:- Si:'.' ■ Ki.r-risk va? i;.-.i i-motis-t^l
:ry: Le: r- iilm ri:::-.- •irir-l li-u withi.-ut
? T r-r^vu--. : ; I will i.:-:. liow-jver, urge
: -ir ^?iv;: AZ^V.VJ.rl.':.
•l::c"_L «'i»i-.li tiirv sailed from
.-.- ii; ii ::.;«iiT;t:r fv.U vf »hoals and
Fr- rj this j-l .•>.• ^aIi•;-t.l';. Zi .Lmi-i. <.t' o"ur»e. intt-nded to go
t'.' ti.r • .■■.•i-.:v-«t •:•: Frishi::.!.. M;.;;r'> Fa>:i:-.-is!aiid>), lut ciuitin^
ii 'j'iat.:- '-li li.-.' ••hill* ■■: tl.v FjK'?. ai;-! foliowinz the line
wiiicli th'.- ti-r-rt with Ni.-:li» Z-eii-^ i-ii Iv-anl is said t«.i have
^.lil'?■i, it irri''nrx»-5 m- thitt tLv ilet:: at the out«t.-t wi-rv not
<lir»>:*t«rd t-:- Sivuapeu. a L-.u iiitg-jilace on the northern side of
SaLdo. ill order to traii5|»^rt tho nnnv to Stn.»m6 (Major's
Frislandai. lor the puri<»tr of conquering it. What, at any
rat'.', had the fleet to do at Bondendon (Mr. Major's and Admiml
1.:
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* Ancniriing to Mr. MAJ<v'i cd.ii- ii. 1^T?. S<'C ti.c ivu:o on the F.a>n>c vl nit.
I
•
and not the Feffroet, 401
ZabTtmann's Noitlerdahl), leaving the army on the little scantily-
peopled Sando, Sanestal not being continuous land with Fris-
ianda? Mr, IVfajor and others may believe that the word
" Norderdahl " to a southern ear sounded like " Bomleudon ; "
but this would not justify the fleet's sailing to Norderdahl.
The navigation from 8aoestal to l><tiidoudon is, in the Italian
narrative, described as perilous through the many shoals and
rocks J but this dofs not agree with the actualities at the Faeroe-
islands; the insignitioant distjinco of 14 to 15 miles, W(?stward
of 8and6, passing by the small islands Trolhuved, Hesti, and
Kolter, to Norderthihl, being quite clear water. Hestii and
Koltor are towering, steep-to, rocky islands surrounded by good
water. Trolhoved is a smaller and luwer uninliabited rock ^
island ; but so free from obstaele?* that you may gf) so close
in shore as to touch tho rock with y<»ur jib-lKjonu There is no
anehoring-ground, liowovcr, in the Sound at Norderdahl ; but
often a strong current and heaving oi the sea, the eimst being
rocky, steep-to: and on such an exposed place Mr. Major sup-
poses that the fleet had thought fit to wait for Zichnmi's arrival.
The cuast in its whole length, J'rom Nurderdahl tu the suutiif rn-
most part of Stromo, is somewhat steep-to an<l rocky, where no
dwelhugs, exeept Utile farms, have ever exist<?<i. Norderdahl,
Sydreihil, Velbastad, Kirk^'bo, and Bo, where some gras.H-plots
may be foimd, hut only near the houses, just .sufficient for th*-
fevi catth? unrl slu'ep, the produce of corn iteing v^ry small. 1
have several times passed between 'lliorsliitvn and the suuthern
part of the island. J ht* whok^ southern part, the abovt^niuned
grassy plots excepted, as well :X8 tlie inner part of ISando,
exhibit nothing but rocks and sterile slonv tracts, and is there-
fore uninhabitable. Certainly the triumphal march of Zichmni
cannot ha\e taken place on the Fa^-roe-ishinds, from Sane>tal
to Tlior.-^hnvn, but must certainly have passed throti;:h a larger
land-area and with greater population. From Slattaretiud on
the north side of Osteio, another of the Fteroes, about 3U0U
feet above the level of the sea, the highest point of tiie island,
I have overlooked the wholo group, the ocean all around, and
the iloep kSounds between all those t-mall steep rocky islands :
and am convinced that, from whatever logh pcunt of any of
these islands Zeuo might have formeil an idea of the extension
of the same, as an experienced sailor he woidd never in his
* Carta da Navegar ' have laid down, as ho has done, tho FaToes
as a single island somewhat greater than Ireland.
At pages 25 and 26 we find in Mr. Major's edition : —
" Steering westwards, we discovered some island.'^ subject t/>
VOL. XLix. 2 n
i
402
Irminger — Zeno^s Frislanda is Iceland
Frislanda, and passing certain shoals, came to Ledovo,* where
we stayed seven days to refresh ourselves and to furnish the
fleet with necessaries. Departtug thence wo arrived on the 1st
of July at the island of Ilafe ;t and as the wind was full in our
favour, we jmshed on."
Let us examiue that island, Little Bimon, of which I sub-
join a sketch. Little Dimon rises steep out of the almost con-
stant heavy seas of the North Atlantic; it is 1299 feet high,
and its frreatest diameter at the level of the sea is about half
u mile (between 3l>U0 and 4000 i'ei't). There is no port> no
anchorage, no lee-side ; almost always breakers, more of less,
against that alraos't perpendicular rocky const; very often,
through the strong title, races whirling round the island, in-
crejusing iu violence. The ishmd is aborduhle only at one
single point, and this only in t-alm weather; it is besides so
steep-to, that one ought to be accustomed to climb almost
perpendicular rocks to get ashore, and no fresh water is to he
found. Cerfainhj the fleet stayed riot here, at this uninhahUalle
s}}ot,/or refri'shnieni and necessaries, where nothing is found but
r<x;k uud u little grass.
Little Dimon.
t Bkuij.
nnti not the Fmroes.
403
[Mr. Major's Skuo)
I
larger than Little Dimon and
inhahited, lnit it also is a high rocky ishiud, Ilufe, with Great
uud Little Dimon, present themselves as lying close to each
otlier, iiud are, through tlieir little distance respectively from
eacli other, to lie seen distinctly at the same time.
The narrative does not give the time at wliich the fleet left
Lcdovo (Little Dimon), hut states only that it arrived at Flafe
on the 1st of July, i suppose that the distance from Leduvo
to Ilafe must have been greater than frmn Little Dimoii to .Skuo,
which is only 7 or 8 miles, a dist^mce that may easily be made
in au hour.
By the name of Frislanda, then, Zeno cannot have meant
the Ffcroes. So large an islaud as he ilest-ribcd, south of Ice-
laud, indeed never existed. The old Northmen who, many
centuries before Zeno, erosseit the Northern Atlantic on their
voyages to Iceland and Greenland, shaping their course south
of Iceland, never mention the great island " Frislanda ; "
neither on the many voyages between England and Iceland,
before the time of Zeno, had that great land been seen.
John Dt;e* setfl forth that the Franciscan, Nicolaus de Liune,
who in 1360 voyajred in the northern seas, and publislied a
book thereon, entitled ' Inventio Fortimata,' sot out from tho
harbour Linne (now King's Ljmn iu Norfolk), from whence,
with ordinary winds, it is fourteen days' sailing to Iceland,
which '• liad bene of many yeeres a very common and usual
trade." By Acts of Edward III., 2nd, 5th, and :Ust yt-ar, the
fishermen of Blakey, iu Norfolk, were freed from the King's
ordinary service, on account of their commerce on Iceland,
but no mention is made of Frislanda.
Bat what island may Zeno have meant to indicate by his
"Frislanda"? I believe that an examination of tho relations
which at that time existed between Europe. and the islands
of the North Atlantic will show us this.
As neither tiie fisheries at Newfoundland nor at Lofoden,
Norway, were known at that time, and as the Catholic religion
was then predominant over all these uortliem countries, Ger-
many, England, Denmark, Norway, and nearly over the whole
of Europe, wbere in Lent therci was a great consumption of
fish, of which " stokiisk " (dried lish) avus one of the principal
supfdies, th«:! Ji.sh-trade of course was carried on principally iu
Iceland, whose surrounding waters were renowned for their
extraordinary riches in fish. Zeno a.sserta that in Frislanda
there was such abundance of fish, that many ships were ladeu
therewith, to supply Flanders, Brittany, England, Scotland,
k
" • Noidisk Tidsabift for Oldkyndigbed,' 2Qd Bind, EicibeohaTQ, 1883, page 26.
1 li'L
404
Irminqer — Zend's Frislanda is Iceland
Norway, and Denmark; and that great wealth was earned 1>
the trade.
On Martin Boheim'a globe, constraeted in the year 1492, yr
read : — " In der Insel Island, tangi man den Stockfisch, de
man in imaei' Lund briugt." The trade on Westmano, eouti
of loelund, where the sea abounds ■ivith iish, appears to havi
been very considerable. Amongst Enj^lish merchants the
are mimed, in 1419, — Rtiflin TirrinsijtoD, John Effrardh, Thotu
Ladsel, Nicies Wanflit» and Richard Plebel ; and amongst thei
clerks, Ilohert llidington, liichard lirillenton, John Wachfield^
John Dnrdley, and liichard Stoktdey, mo.stof whom dwelt the
and traded throughont the winter.* A.s to such abundance of
iish in these eld days in the Fanoes, nothing is known.
With regard to this eommerco with Iceland, I note from
Icelandic Bourees the Ibllowing items :t—
About the year 1400, Englishmen gained an absolute supre-
macy in the trade on Iceland. They ill-treated the Icelanders,
and incredible were the injuries they perpetrated — rapines,
pillage, mutiny, and manslaughter.
In the year 1419 Thorsley Arnesen sailed from Iceland in
order to represent to the King of Denmark the calamiti
brought on the inhabitants by the piliagefl of foreigners. On"
the voyage he was surprised by an English vessel, whose assault,
however, he repelled, and took refuge first at the Faeroes,
lastly in Norway.
In 1420 English ships, under John Harris and Rawlin Tir-
rington, traded on Westman6, where they robbed nine lasts of
the king's dried Jiah.
On the coasts of North Iceland, in Skagafiord, the crews from
three ships landed in full battle array, with trumj)ets and
flying eui^igns. They plew there a royal officer, John Ida,
wronged the administrator at Holum in the presence of thi
bisliop, besides practising robberies and other crimes.
In 1424 the English seized and plundered for the fourth tim
Besscstad (then the residence of the bailifi'), near Heikiavi
carried away, among other goods, six lasts of dried fish, slcwooi
Anders Olsen, and wounded and seized many others of thi
kings men, &c. &c. The ringleaders named are .fohn Percyj
John Pfisdal, and Thomas Dale. On one
islands the English had places of refuge,
entrenchments. Westmano was ravaged repeatedly ; a quai
peace was concluded, but soon broken. The English pursne
the roval oflicers even on the main land. Near tho church
* ' Nnnliak Tidsskrift for OtdlcyntlighcxJ,' 2iid Biml, 1833. puge 138,
t Ibid.. Finn MtiguuBen, ' Oiu uc Eiige]»kcfl WnncU'i paa Islnml.'
or more adjacei
surrounded will
Saurbay. on the southerland of Iceland, they can-ied away with
tln'tii some horses, arms, swords, &c.
lu 1425 the English contiaued their hostih'ties under the
leaderjihij) (if Percy. On Westmauo they seized the royal coin-
roanders JInnne Poulsen and Halthasar van Danimo, whom
they carried away with them, as prisoners to Etighmd, &c.
In one of the |)recedin<j; years the pirates burnt down the
churcli on Eiso and Husevig on the northland of Iceland, like-
wise the church on Primso, carrying away a multitude of cattle
and sheep; even many persons, grown men and children, as
prisoners.
But enough of the Injuries peq>etrated by foreigners in Iceland.
I must not omit, however, to note that in the year 1394 a some-
what sigmlioaot skirmish took place at BudarhoPdi,* one of the
oldest eonimerciai places in the inner part of Hvalfiord (Faxe-
bay), between the inhabitants and foreign sailors, as this perhaps
is about the date of the expedition of Zichmni to Frislanda
recorded in Zeoo's ItaliaQ narrative. I may note, further,
timt in order to prevent the atrocities of foreigners in Iceland,
Queen Margaret of Denmark in 13SiJ prohibited all foreigners
from trading in Ireland and Greenland, although many Ice-
landic records prove how powerless those prohibitions were
against the overmatching crowd of foreigners, with the piracy
and violence which were often intermingled with peaceable
commerce. The Danish king, Eric the Porameran, had, before
1411, issued a decree strictly prohibiting all commerco in
Iceland with English seamen i>ther than these with whom it
wsm customary to trade ; and an EngHsh merchant, Kichard, at
the Westliord in Iceland, presented the king's sea-passport and
thereby was admitted to trade; but at the same tiiao Euglish
iisliernien, especially from Leune (Lynn), Loudon, Feraemouth
(Yarmouth), and uthers, pillaged on various parts of the coast.
In tlie year 1413 thirty English liahiug-vesseta are enumerated
tis being in Ifieland ; besides English merchant-vesiscls, amongst
which tivo to Westmauo; iu the year 1415 six Euglisli mer-
chant-vessels were in Havnetiord, one of whieli was freighted
for the king's feofteeof Iceland, Vigfiis Iverseii Halm, who, with
Kixty lasts of dried tish and a quantity of silver money, saded
to England.
On Maundy-Thursday, 13th of April, 1419, in a iiorrible
hurricane, witli showers of snow, lasting only three hours, not
less than 25 English fishing-vessels were wrecked at Iceland,
the carg(jes and wrecks covering the coasts; all the crews,
however, were drowned iu the waves.
* BudarbuftU is now a commercial pkce, bud down luiiuy yeara ago.
i
406
Ibmingeb — Zends Frislamlu is Iceland
Nowhere in the oimals and recordg of Icelaud does the nai
of Frislanda occur, or is even hinted at.
Evidently the expedition (assault and pillago) of Zichmni on.
Frislanda, as described by the Zeui, fits remarkably well us one
of the cases of piratical assaults above enumerated as committt '
in Iceland by forei'^iners — it fits both in reejiect to date and to tli^
character of the attack. The position with respect to latitud^
and longitude' is obvious : " Estland " (Shetland), laid down closffl
to Norws^', a long island between OT}^ and 70.V^ of latitude
named "Islanda," has not the leiiat coiiibrmity with Iceland;
multitude of iskmds laid down on the north-east side theiXM
do not exist, but have got names which point to Shetland ; ih«
configuration and position of Islaadn are unjust to such a degree
that, though the Latin names of Skalholt and Holum bo found
in the * Carta.' we may, with surety, suppose that Zeno hjis traced
the same after some loose account, wliich may be supposed to
be the ease witii many other non-existent lands in his ' Carta/
Malte-Brun's assertion (Major's Introduction, xxxviii) in big
'Precis do la Geographic universelle,' that Islanda " est bonne k
Texceptiou de la partie Nord-Uuest,'' I cannot agree to. Thw
* Carta ' itself furnishes, nevertheless, a clue to the solution of
the question.
It is evident that " Frisland '* in Zeno's * Carta * has a great
resemblance to Iceland, and is traced more acctirately than th<
other lands in the 'Carta' as an isUtud "somewhat larger tin
Ireland." Considering the ]»our material apidianc-e* in Zeno*!
time, especially the want of instruments, for laying do\
approximately tmo the whole configuration of a laud, it ia
wonderful to what degree "Frisland" resembles the actnol,
Iceland.
At that time the general amount of kuowledgo regar<liQg'
Iceland was uot insigniticant, and Zemi, as a well-informed uiau,
had certaiidy eommnntcatx.'d with cultivated Icelanders, froi
whom he pri>bably had the tracing.
The island " Ishmda " laid dow ti in the * Carta,' a long waj
northward, is not to be regarded — the tracmg showing itsel
as uuoertain as that of Icaria, and many other non-existent
places.
In a sea-chart on so small a scale as Zeno's, stretching frot
Europe to Greenland, Zeno wouM certainly not have laid dowi
such an insignificant shoal as Sumlo-Munk (south of Faeroe)
placing it south of Frisland. Supposiug Zeno's " Monaco " t
be Westmano, south of Iceland, at that time renowned for it
extensive fish trade, and as its position south of Iceland, with if
adjoining smaller islands, is pretty correct, then I do not hesital
to asfmri that Zeno may have inteuded by Frisland to ai|
Iceland ; meetiiic^ as we t'nrthor do, vn Icelain] near the
Westmaiio, with Portland (Porlando) ; tiiu trading-place Orcbak
(Ot!ib:ii'), and Arnee-syssel (Anesee), discovering .Sudero Colfo
(the Kouthern gulf), as Faxcbiigt and Colfo Nnrda (the northern
gulf), as Bredeljiigt. Banar an Biarnar-hofn (on a chart of
I("eland by Erirliseii, datfd 1780), a harbour situated between '
Cap Devia and Porti (harlKJiirs). Porti (corresponds with Styk-
kisholm with a safe harbour, known and frequented in old
timea, within smaller rocky islands and shoab; from the neigh-
bourhood of which harbour tlui greatest part of the most
renowned discoverers of Greenland and America set out from
Iceland, therefore probably calling the place " Porti" (harbnurs).
Farther northwards we meet " liondendon " as Budardalr, Ande-
fort as ^Vjnarfiotl, Spagia as Skagcn. Jiane corresjiouds with
Randantps; on the western side is situated the well-known
Roverhavn (Robber-harbour); Lagostlos as Lengeu£es; Vadim
as Voj>na-Fiord ; Rifu-Kadea a.? Rcidar-Fiord.*
And now let us examine the Italian narrativ<?, supposing
" Frislanda " to be Iceland and its neighbourhood, and inserting
the Icelandic places in the text.
In the Hakluyt Society's Edition, at page 7, we read : —
" Here (in Sanestal) they found Zichnini, who came by huid
with his army, conquering nil the conntrv as he went. They
stayed here but a litth? while, and making their cours(5 still
westwards, thoy came to the other cape of tiio gulf, and then
turning again tliey fell in with certain islands and lauds which
they brought into possession of Zichmni. This sea through
which they sailed wns. in a manner, full of shoals and rocks ; .
BO that had Mcssiro Nicolb and tlm Venetian mariners not been
their pilots, the whole ileet, in the opinion of all tiiat were in it,
wonld have been lost, so inexperienced wore Ziclnnni's men in
comparison with ours, who had been, ono might say, bom,
trained up, and grown old iti the art of navigation. Now the
fleet having done as described, the captain, oy the advice of
Messire Nicoh), determined to go ashore at a place called Bon-
deudon, to learn what success Zichmni had had in his wars, and
there, to their great satisfaction, thoy heard that ho had fought
a great buttle and put to tlight the army of the entuuy," &r. iV<r.
The harbtmr" Sanestnl" we place uttlie aouthcragulf (iSudero
Colfo), Faxehugtcn. Tlie position corresponds nearest with
the actual trading-place, Budenstad, with its harbom'. On the
south side of iSudero Colfo lies Haynefiord, which, in olden
times, had a large trade.
Cf. the Accompanying Map of Icelnnd.
408
Irmikger — Zeno^s Frislanda is Tcelanu
If by " Sanestal " is not inetiut one of those plttces, probabli
it may signify the foraiur trading-place, Budarhoi'di, in flvall
where, as rehited in the Icelandic anuals, in tiie year 1394 a
battle was fon!2;ht between the iidiabitants and foreigners or
adventurers. The voynge from one of those phices in the
soutliern ji:ulf, to Bondendou (Budardah"), in Colfo Norda,
correspondH uiuch better with the Itahan narrative, than the
voyage betneeu the Fturoe-islands, as before mentioned.
ITjiviup:, daring; my loop residem^e in dii!erent years in lee-
hiud, tra\elled tiirough tlie country, and therefore knowing
the localities, I at first supposed in r^-uding the Zeno narrative
of the sailing from " fSanestal " to " Bondendou," that it aimed at
a voyac;e from the actual Faxebugt (Sudero Colfo), Icelandic
"Sudr," into tho actual Bredebugt (Colt'o Norda) — Icelandic
"Nordr" — where, in the inner part, we meet with mauy small
rocky islands and ridges, wJiicli, as navigators at that time were
not furnished with authentic charts, would make the navii^ation
very troublesome and perilous. The course out of Sudero
Coifo (southern gulf) is westwards, as stated iu the Italiau nar-
rative, and iu order to get into Colfo Norda (northern gulf),
Sncfieldsufcs (Zeno's Cap Devia) must be passed. The |>enin-
Hula which separates Faxebugt from Bredebugt is about 20OO
feet high, ending in the western eape with Snefieldsjokul, about
5000 feet above the level ot" the sea, showing itself over the
whole Faxe- and J^rede-bugt, with its eternal ice and snow-
masses covering about two-thirds of the height of the joknl,
and, because of its iieight, looming rather nearer than it actually
is. Uf course they had to make a loug reuntlabout from the
inner part of Faxcbugt, to get into the inner part- — filled
with many rocks and shoals — Bredebugt, where Budardi
(Bondenduij) is situated, and thus it is signiticant that Zei
has named the western cape (Cape Suefieldiiuies) " Cap DeviaJ
i.e. iu Italian, "out of the way."
When Zichmui came to Sanestal, where the fleet met bii
it is not dated in the Italian narrative, nor is it evident wliith^
he went in Frislanda, leaving the fleet at Bondendon.
He may perhajw firstly have landed on (ha southent coast of
Ict'hnid, near to Westmano, meeting the iJeet at Huvnehord,
Biidenstad, or Hvalliord, which may thus eorresjwud >vith the
Icelandic relation of the skirmish in that tiord at Budarhofdi in
the year BJll'4, tiieuce, or from one of the other named |daee«,
Havuetiord or Bndeiistiid, he has perhaps continued his trium-
phant march through the country to Bndardulr (Bondendon),
where he met the fleet. Tiiat part of Iceland is the best
peopled, and this route corrospouds much better with the Italian
narrative than the triumpliant march through the almost unin-
atid not the Fxroen. 409
habited and insiguificjint districts of the Fajroea from Sando to
Tliorsbuvn.
As to the posiiioa ol' the i*ihinds Ledovo and Ilafe, mentioned
in the Italian narrative, and that ol' many other there-name<l
places, I do not know where to hxy theia down, and feel com-
jjellcd to seek tlio cause of that inexplif'ability in the fact
that nut tilt 15.j8, ahutit l")!) years after the death i>f the two
brethren Nicohi and Antunio Zcuu, the voyaijes in the uurth
were edited by one ot their dos<?etidunts, their 'Carta da
Navegar ' having Inen partly de.stn)yeel hefure,
8tili, I believe I have proved clearly, in the foregoing
remarks, that " Ledovo " was not " Little Dimon ;" it being im-
possible for a fleet in such a little uninhabited spot " to stay
seven days to refresh ourselves and to furnish the tieet with
necessaries."
I have DOW reached the end of my objections to the views of
Mr. Major and A<]niirul Zahrtmann, respecting the mystic island,
" Frislauda," of the Venetian brothers Zeno, aud have given
my own individual ojiiiiirm in the matter. I will now touch on
a few other obscure points or ratlier uncertainties we meet with
in Zeno's narrative.
In Mr, Rlajor's edition, at page 12, we read as follows: —
"Accordingly he titled out three small barks iu the month of
July, and Hailing towards the north arrived in Eni£rinudiiu<l.
Here he found a monastery of the ordt-r of Friars Freucliers,
and a church dedicated to St. ThniniLs, hard by a liill, ^vhich
vomited tire lii<e Vesuvius and Etna. There is a J^pring of
hot water there, with which they hoiit both the church and the
monastery, and tlte chambers of the Friars, and the wat«r
comes up into the kitchen so boiling hot, that they use no other
fire to dress their victuals."
And further on, at page 'M : "To the harbour wc gave the
name of Triji, and the headland which stretched out into the
sea, we called ' Ca[)o de Triu.'"
B£r. Major, in his Litroductiou, page Ixxxv. : —
" When kSiiicluir reached Greenland after his adventui-e off
Iceland, lie entered a hnrbour, from which Antonio says, ' we
saw ill the distan«.'e a greut mountain that poured forth smoke'
The harbour they called Triu, and whetlior riglitly or wrongly,
that is to say, whether so standing in the old map or inserted
haphazard by Nicolb Zeno, junior, the promontory of Trin is
placed at the extreme south point of Greenland," &c.
Further: Intro(hxction, page lx.\xiv. :
" Ihit the monastery was not only near a lake according to Ivar
Bardscu, but according to Zeno it was near a hill which vomited
410
Irminger — Zeno's Frislanda is Iceland
fire like Vesuvius and Etna, and whether it be an extinct v
cano or not. there is ou the Danish map iu a position cor
sponding with that fixed by l?afi], a liill named * Snikarasuak.' *
As Mr. Major, in his chart accompanying the above Introdu
tion, has laid down tho above-meutioned monastery and the hi
" Suikarssiiak " in Tessemiint-fiord, I spuke with Mr. Steenst:
conconiiog the Zenonian narrative before he left CopenliHgei
when he in 1876 was sent out by (he Danish Government o]
a voyage of discovery to South Greenland. I give hero an
extract of Mr. Steenstrup's notice thereon, addressed to th
Government, concerning his examination of Tessermint-fio:
by which it comes to light that the hiU " Suib'irMuak " cant}
have hef-n cither an exthict or a^if other kind of volcano. " I dete:
mined," Mr. f^tcenatnip says, " in the first Iialf of Septetn
to examine a place on the island Sermesok, where it was sti
posed that Kryolith was to be found, partly in order to examine
the ice near Cape Farewell, partly in order to visit Tesserrain
fiord, induced thereto bv the comments in a paper publishi
in the * Journal of the Koyal Geographical Society * for 187
of Mr. Major, to the voyages of Zeno. On the way we visi
tiio hot springs on tho island Uuart^k (before frequently d
scribed). Having cluiiiged boats at Nennartalik we pushi
into the fiord Tessermint, passing the beautiful rock 'Suikai
suak.' which according to the Zenonian narrative sliould ha
been an extinct volcano, hut such is not the case, Snikarssu;
is a mighty granite rock, about 1300 metres liigh, wliicli by i'
compactness differs from all tlie other scattered summits fo;
ing the coast of the inner jiarts of the fiord. *Suikiir.
signifying the ^ great ^ i^olid, tirnhvcu {rooU).
"Another rock, ' Ktiingingek,' opposite to Nennartalik,
the southern side of Tessermint, might perhaps throw
light on tho veracity of the Zenoiditn ' Carta.' A cape is
dovvji iu the south part of Greenland, and named * Triii-prom'
and iu the text ' Capo di Trin,' which name Mr. Bredsdorff, in
his treatise on those voyages, conjectures may be derived from
Icelandic ' dnini,' Danish *Tryne' — trunk, snout, proboi
'Kutngingek' even signifying a trunk or a snout of a s
with which the rock seems to have some likeness."
Frtmi all these facts we cannot admit that Zeno had bee
Greenland, and surveyed imd laid down iu his 'Carta'
coasts, &c. The tracing of the land is not at all difficult, and it
is not to be wondered at that the southland of Greenland is laid
6° too northerly — the position of the greatest port of the landa
in bis 'Carta' being even more incorrectly laid down
Greeiilund. Hut even if he had been there, the exauiinatij
and not the Fssroes,.
411
I
I
aud tiucing: ot" n coast so extended, exposed to such troubles
and liindmni'os, would have required such a length of time, that
we may sately conclude that the charting of Greenhuid has not
ibeen the work of Zeno only and sohi-ly. Ho may have received
his kuowledj^o of (Jreenlaud from leclauders, who at that tinio
— 3U0 or 40<J yeure before Zeuo — bad laaintaiued a lively com-
merce with Greenland, where many Icelanders had found a
home, built cliurches, etc. From Icehiudic tales he also might
have learnt that the fishing-boata of the Greenlanders ("kajaks")
wen3 made like a '' weaver's ahnttle."
We may safely assert that volcanoes never existed in South
Greenland. Nol>ody, Zeno excepted, ever mentioned tJie like;
and all his account of fire-vomitinp; hills on (xn^enlaud. and the
heating of the monastery and private dwelliup^s by springs nf
hot water, may rel'er to Iceland, where volcauoes are found,
and hot springs frequently met with, which in many places are
used to dress victuals, and could be made use of to a greater
extent in heating dvvollia«j:.s, Ac. iVc. — which probably may
have been the oa>e in ulden times.
I Tnay remark that in my voyH<2;es to Iceland I have twice —
in 182G and 1834 — visited Keikholt, the dwellinc; of the re-
nowned historian Suorro Sturleson, born 1 178, and killed by hia
son-iu-hiw, Gissur Thorvaldsen, 1241, ivho had built near his seat
ft basin of great stones for bathing, to which the water .was led
from a hot^-water sjiring in the neighbourhood; the cold water
being h'<l thereto from a brook, that ho might give the bath
the wishod-for temperature. The bjisin was of such solidity
that in 1S26 and 1834, after a, lapse of about tJOQ years, I founa
it as perfect aud fit fur u.se (the very spring still esiisting)
as if it ha'l been built up> iu recent tiraea. I was told that it
was scarcely ever made use of; a circumstance which proves
tiiat iSnorre Sturleson appreciated bathing higher than his
Buccessor.s.
In Eeikiadal I have seen small craters, of only a few feet
diameter, where tlie hot water nearly fill<-d the crater to the very
brim, used for dressiDg the victuals ; the kitchen-pots being
bung between two iron bars over the crater, and sunk in it, tho
victuals in the {tuts thus in a short time being heated to the
same temperature as the boiling water in tho crater. Further,
I visited a batliing-place in the neighbourhood of tho dwelling
of an IcelandtT, Ion Jonsson, in Reikiadal, contrived by means
of various snudl craters full of hot water — great flat stones
inaking the floor of a hut thatched with turf, like the cominou
Icelandic dwellings. The patients entered the hut where the
heated stones produced a great heat — those sufferLng from the
gout placing themselves, enveloped in wooUen covers^ u. kixi^t.
412 ALvJOR — Zend's Frislanda h not Iceland^
or shorter time on the heated floor. As no cold water
bo found iij the iieighhourlioud, the water froiri the hoi spnoj
was led to ii biisiu sornewliat distiint, where it was cxxiled.
Coffee cooked with the water had uo bad taste whatever,.
cattle drinkint; the water thrived very well.
Zeno had without doubt heard of similar places in loelanii
certainly never in Greenland.
It is to bo regretted that the original narrative of Nicolb
Antonio Zeno han not descended to posterity in its integrity
jwnned by thcraselves, as it would certjiiuly in that case hai
r>een a more precious geographical document than it is
it« present state. Zeno the younger, the editor, himself
fesses that he, when a child, had torn many of the letters
pieces, and that the ' Carta,' when it was edited, was rott
with age.
VII. — Zeiio's Frislanda is not Iceland, hut tlie Fiei'oea;
Answer to Admiral Irminorr. By E. IT. Majok, y.s.,
Sccretiiry, R.G.s.
It was truly said by the learned dohu I'inkerton, in
'History of Scotland' (vol. i, page 2<il, note), "that Zenc
book is one ol tlif niost puxzling in the whole circle of liter
ture." In luy edition of that book in 1S73 I believed, and still
believe^ that 1 had solved all the puzzles therein contained.
This belief is based upou the fact that 1 hud demonstrated bj
the geography of to-day that the FrisUuida of the Zeno was tl
Fajroe Islands; and that by the happy discovery of a nassa
in Torfsc'us, to the eficct that " in the year 1391 the Karl
Orkney slew Malise Sperre (his Norse rival to the earldom)
Hlietland with seven others," bad been ablo to correct tho dalj
of the map Ironi 1380 to 1390, and. in so doing, to bring tl
dniiiHttis iier$ttii{P and events dcseribc-fl into perfect historic
hartnnny, both as to time and place. Of tliese t^vo tnaiu poiul
the former is the only one to which we are now called U{>on
direct our attention. I also took great pains to briu'f in^
})rorainent light two stumbling-blocks, over one or otlier
)oth of wliieli all my predc^cessors had tripped, and cousequei>t
failed. They are both of them absolutely and unavoidal
necessary tu be borne iu mind if the Zeno book is to be di
criticised, but both one and the other are essentially obuoxic
to severely matter-of-fact minds. The first is, the noa-rec
nitiun of tho reality that when proper names are written doi
hut the FffToes.
413
^
»
^
^
by a foreigner from the lips of natives of whose language and
conntry he is otherwise entirely ignorant, such proper names
must be roeog:ni3ed not by their literal rendering, hut by their
sound, ill eouneotion with the eireumstances under wliieh they
were dictated. So diftit^nlt of reeofinition is this reality by
many minds, that I havi;- known persons who have aekiiowl edged
the j)rineiple in tlieory stumble at the very first example pro-
pouaded to tliem in praetiee.
The second is tlie non-recognition of the real or apparent
exaggeration — sometimes more apparent than real — almost
universally prevailing in narratives of medieval voyages and
travels. It is obvious that if the eommentator of to-day en-
deavours to bring down such narratives to tde dead level of his
own present experienet's, making no allowance whatever for
the changes which have taken place in the lapse of tinae, he
must either come to wrong conclusions, or else reject the whole
storv as worthless.
^lOw it must be confessed that, in finding a remedy for both
these difKcnlties, speculation has to be resorted to, but happily,
always within the wholesome check of following tbe track of
the narrative in faithful sequence from a well-recdgnised begin-
ning to a well-reeognised termination. Where this can be done
iinder the hght of the historical and geographical knowledge of
to-daj', we can without hesitation accept tne phonetic instead
of the litt-nd rendering of the proper names which fall within
the track, while wo can with equally good conscience, in a
proper atttiquarian spirit, look liack to the habits and style of
expression peculiar to the early period under consideration.
Where a subject is go puzzling as that of the 55eno, it is no
wonder if propouuders of new theories should arise ; but if they
will not avail themselves of the elucidations I have already
given, it is no duty of mine to repeat them. When, however,
an honoured veteran like Admiral Irmingcr propounds a new
theor)', and adduces prima facie plausible arguments in its
favour, I wilhngly make it a duty to listen respectfully to what
ho has to advance, and to answer him as clearly as I nmy.
The jihonetic principle Admiral Irminger seems to accept,
but ho has not, I foar, made due allowance for the changes
incident to the lapse of time.
In the Zeno narrative is a description of the formal taking
possession, both by land and .sea, of Frialanda, wliich I have
shown to be the Fn^roe Islands, by the chieftain Zichmni, whom
I have shown to l>e Henry Sinclair, Earl of the Orkneys and
of Caithness ; the taking possession of the coasts and islands
being committed by hira to Nicolo Zeno. With reference to
this expedition Admiral Irminger makes a long extract from
the Zeno text, indndiuL' tlio follo\
ZicUmni
possession
passage : — " This fleet
with little trouble g
other small islands
gulf called Sudero ; where in the harbour of the country, called
Sanestol, thtjy found Zichjiini, who oume hf land ivifh his armt
conquering all tlie coimtry as lie went;" and the adniira
comment is, '* As Ziclimni came hj land, »Sanc<stol (Majc
Sondoe) must have heen continent with the place fronx whit
he has come directly." And some lines afterwards ho says :-
" From whence he came is not said, bnt hij land it is not jjosail
to come to that little island.'" No one more ready than mys
to acknowlod^jfo that one iloes not generally come to an islai
by laud, uhclher that island be small ur fcrout, but it is quil
possible to come by land to a bay in an island, though tha
island he small; and this is all that the text requires, viz. "In
the harbour of the country, called Suucstol [i.e. the harbour of
iSaudsbugt], they found Zichrani, who came by land with his
army." Tiiis exnlaimtion, however, does not neutralise Adii
Irmmger's ibrmiuublo statement, that by land it is not po>r-! :.
to come to that little island. I will venture an audacious
conjecture. Suppose Ear! Sinclair and his men crossed over to
Sandoo in boats. Boats have been used for crossing from one
island to another before now, wliile, as Admiral Irminger ]" '
out, there was a capital landing-place at Skaapen, on the
side of .Sandoo ; and, in fact, the Admiral is *' [»erplexed th
Zeno was not at the outset directed to this landing-place
order to transport the army to Stronioe for the conquest's sake
Admiral Irmiuger has not reaHse«l that the 8<3-called army-
whatever number of men that might mean, probably the mot
handful — was with Sinclair hiniSLdf, while Zeno h<id a specit
task entrusted to lam, which was. that white Earl Sinclair wa
making his triumphant progress on landy he himself wtvs to
take fornial possession of the coasts and ishinds, for whit
purpose accordingly he proceeded with the Jleet to the wt
wards and northwards.
These and other minor difficulties, to which I shall recur
hereafter, force Admiral Irminger to the conclusion that the
Frislauda of the Zeno cannot be the Fa;roe Islands. I will
therefore address myself t-o this principal question at once, iu
order that a large hoh^ being made for the cat, there may be
free passage for the kittens, and so time may be saved. The
first lact which confronts us is, that neither Nicolo nor Antonio
Zeno, from whom the narrative and map aro derived, is of the
same opinion us Admiral Jrminger; for on the map we (iml
laid down hoth Frislauda and Iceland, and, roughly spc«
for a map made 500 years ago, in their proper positions '
hut the Fteroes,
415
I
f^osing Frislanda to be the Faeroe Islands), with reference to
Treenland, Norway, and Scotland. In order to elevate Fris-
landa to the dignity of Iceland, Admiral Irmiuger aims at
treating the larger island of Islandu or Ireland as a myth;
but this will not do, for on Islanda are laid down the names
of the two Icelandic Bishops' 't^cs, Scalodiu and Olensis (the
adjectival foiTQ of Holum). It is manifest, tliereforo, that
iu the opinion of these two ancient Venetiaii voyagers, the
authors uf both narrative and map, we have two substantive
realities, one Frislanda, the other Iceland, and that Frislanda
is not Iceland, and Iceland is not Frislanda. Adtnirnl Irraiuger
is of a difl'erent opinion. I beg leave to side with the old
voyagers. But it will be said that the Zeuo map was sophisti-
cated by Nicolb Zeno, jun., in 15.58. True; iu \m guileless
ignomnce of the countries referred to, both in map jtnd text, he
misread "Eslanda " and "Le Isiandc," both meaning lht> Shet-
land Islands, lor Jslauda (Iceland), and acconliiigly endowed
the latter island at its east end with a cluster of seven islands,
bearing names mentioned in tlie text as really belonging to the
Bhetlands. In this we trace a blunder into vvhicli he could
blamelessly fall, but there is nothing therein to warrant the
extravagant supposition that he had evolved from his inner
jcoi^dousness the island or group of islands named Frislanda,
and had not only arbitrarily inserted it on the map, but, knowing
no more of tho Fasroe Islands than the roan iu the moon, had
invented and inserted in the narrativt^t a story of events occur-
ring therein, and agreeing iu detail with the geography of the
present day. If he could perfoiui such a uiiratde as this, ho
FoulJ merit canonisation forthwith. But we have no need to
rt to the supernatural. The most conclusive evidence that
'iiBlanda and Iceland were transmitted in their entirety by
Antonio Zeno, is given in the following words in a letter by
him addressed to his brother Carlo. .Speaking of a bwik which
he had written, and which, in fact, he brouj^'ht liomo with iiim
to Venice, he says, " In it I have described the country, the
monstrous fishes, the customs and laws of FrlalatHlif, of Imlanda
(Iceland), of Esilanda (Shetland), the kingdoms of Norway,
Estotilaud, and Drogio."
And now that I have shown on the highest possible authority
that Iceland is not Frislanda, nor Frishmdji Iceland, I will
proceed to show what Frislanda is. If wo look at the Zfuo
map, the iirst thing which strikes our eye, standing at the
extreme south of Frislanda, like a sentinel keeping watch and
'ward over the group, is the Island of Monaco (Venetian for
" Monk "). If we turn to a modem map of the Fieroe Islands we
the same monk standing as sentmel in precisely the same
4ir,
Major — Zrno's Frislondn u not Trcland,
position. For five hundred years and more has that montc
stood there patiently on fjuarfl, and if he could speak thf
name of the territory over which he kept ward, that name.
whether uttered to-djty or five hmnlred years ago, however
the dialect miglit differ, Mould virtually be the same. A
sturdy and irrnM^rturhable sentinel tlmt, whom I venture to
think that not even A<hiiiral Irminger will succeed in upsettint,'.
But let us now revert to the aiready quoted passage irom the
text, which says ([uigo (»), " Zichmni being anxious to wia
renown by deeds of arms, had come with his men to attempt
the eontjucst of Frislaiida, wliich is an island somewhat larger
than Ireland** The ileet under thc^ charge of Zeno, consisting
of thirteen vessels, sailed to the westwnrds, aud with little trouble
gained possession of Ledovo and Ihife, and other small islanils,
in a g^ilf callt'd Hudeiir, where in the harbour of the couutrv
ealli*d iSjiuestul, they captured some smiiU liarks ladtui with salt
fish." Now bo it observed that both bore in the text, and in the
Frislandu of the map, the (iulf of Sudero is mentioned ; and if
the reader will look at the raotlern map of the Fieroe Islands,
he will find betwei n the Island of Sudero, the soutliernniost of
the larger islands of the group, nud the Island of Sandoe, the
Sanestol of Zeno, Sudero-Fiortl, which is the (xulf of Sudero.
So that in three independent places we have the (Tulf of
Sudero, common to the text, the Frislanda of the map, and
the Fasroe Isluuds of the map of to-day. The identity is tli<'u
unavoidable.
From Sandsbugt, in Sandoe, M-here Sinclair met Zeno, the
text says that the fleet, making its course still westwards, came
to the other cape of the gulf, und then turning again they fell
in with certain itslunds and lands which they brtm«,'ht into ftosses-
sjon of Zichmni. Thia sea was in a mnnner full of shoals and
rocks, so that had Messire Nieolo and the Venetian mariners
not been their pilots, the whole fleet would have been lost.
By the advice of Messire Nicolo, the <"aptain now deteriuiuetl
to go ashore, ut a jdace cfillcd iJondeudon, and there thev
heard that Zichmni had put to ihght the army of the enemy';
in consequence of which arobassiidors wore sent from all partd
of the isbiiid to yield the country up into his hands. Here they
awaited bis arrival, whcu Zichrani having complimented MeasiK
* Had Adniiriil Triitin^br rlditr^ mv the hoDcnir tn read a note whicli I tniMle on
thja pui»eiug'o in uiy tKmk. \w iil-liI not htive JnsiRtod on this rTidcntly bhii '
iise of the word " Irelniid " by NitMlii Zeno, junr. Tbu unto ruiw tlm* :—
the Z<^ni'« iitti-r i^iKiranw of lulaiid, as slionii in n Kiilitfiiiieiit part •■' i-
tive, I Ijavo reasioii to Biinjxft tli.it tlio word renderid hnro ' Irliintla '
origiiiHl text ' lulnnda or Kshtudii,' lu writttii elstwLere in the t«xt im -
Thu proportion:! of Fribluiida und Eutlund {i.e. Shetlund) nn the Zfuo im
in iifforduiifc with Ihid coiiL-hvsioii."
but the Fceroeg, 417
Nicolb on liia ffreat zeal and skill, conferred on him the honour
of knipjlithood, and rewarded his men with very handsome
presents. "Depnrling thence," the text goes on to say, " they
went in trJnmpnant manner towards Frislanda, the chief city
of that island on the sonth-east of it, lying inside a hay, in
which there is snch great abundance of ti^h, thut many ships
are hiden therewith to supply Flanders, Brittany, England,
Scotland, Norway, and Denmark, and by this trade they gather
great wealth."*
A glance nt the map of tho Fseroe Iskmla will show how
Jaccurately this track of the lleet accords with tho localities,
and if at the same time the Frislanda of the Zeno map be
consulted, it will be seen that Boudendon lies opposite to the
town of Frislanda, the eapitid of the whole group, i.e. 'I'hors-
havn,t while on the modern map, Norderduhl, on tlie west side
of the island of Stromoe, of which Bondeiidon is tho phonetic
representative.t occupies tho same position opposite Thorshavn,
on the soulh-east of Stromoe, as the text describes.
In the course of this track there are two points to which
Admiral lrminfl;er raises objections. One is, that there are
rocks but no shoals, where Zeno described tlie latter to be,
but the expression occura in a passage where there ta much
vaunting of the nautical skill of the Venetian mariners, and
whether there are phoals there or not, rocks and shoals are not
infrequent companions, and we must not be surprised at vanity
exhibiting itself in a littie braggadocio. Admiral Irminger's
second objection is, " That there is no anchor groimd at Norder*
dahl, but often a strong current and heaving of the sea."
" The beach," he says, " in its whole length from Norderdahl to
the Boothemmost part of Stromoe is a somewhat steep-to and
rocky coast." Perhaps on this occasion there was no strong
cnrrent or heaving of the sea, and, as there was a beach, we
may reasonably suppose that Sinclair was able to oommuuicate
with Zeno, as the text dcBcrihes, before his triumphant tle-
parture for Thorshavn, alias Friwlunda,
^_ While thus treating of the coasts and rocks in this part of
^P the Faroe group, it is well that I should advert to another
^^ occasion, much later in the narrative, when great preparations
I were being made for an exteni«ive voyage to the west, to a
I country called Estotiland. " Steering westwards," says Antonio
* In tliia sentBiico there in unquestionaLly much apparent, exaggeration.
t la meiliovul tiiueti it wati a frequent cuHtoiu to apply the noiue of tho whole
couutry to Ihu capital.
\ 1 oliservo that Admiral Iruiingcr si>ealu of Bondendon as "Mr. Major's and
Admiral Zfilirliiianii'B Nordtrtialil ; " and of t^auestol ati "Major's aud Zahrt-
imtuii'H 8iindoe." I &nd no trace whatever of Adiuiritl ZahTimoDD having iuimIo
these tdeutiHratiou£. I alone utu re«pOD6iblo foi tliam.
VOL. XLIX. t "E.
418
Majoe — Zends Frislanda is not Iceland^
oe. It
Zeno, " we discovered some islands subject to Frislanda, asc
passing certain shoals, came to Ledovo, where wo stayed seve
days to refresh ourselves, and to furnish the fleet with ue
saries. Departing hence, we arrived on the Ist of July at ihe
island of Ilofe." The reader will recollect the mention of theae
islands in the Gidf of Sudero in Nicola Zeno's expedition. In
the modern map of the Faaroe Islands will be seen in Sudero
Gulf the islands of Lille Dimon, 8tore Dimon, and Skuoe. It
is not difficult to understand how Zeno, hearing Lille Dime
littered by a northerner, should give to tbe sound that he
the form of Ledovo, and it has been suggested by Breds
in his artic'le on iJie Zeno voyages in * Groulund'a Histoi
Mindesmaerker," that the "I'^ in Ilofe has been mistakenl]
written by Nicolo Zeno, jun., for an " S," and thus we may see'
tbat Skuoe easily becomes, when written down by the southerner^
Slofe. We will now see what Admiral Irminger says wi
respect to Lille Dimon, apropos of the above quotation froi
Antonio Zano — " Let us examine," he says, " tbat island ' Litt
Dimon,' of which I subjoin a sketch. Little Dimon rises steei
out of the almost constant heavy seas of the North Atlantic,
1299 feet high, its greatest diameter at the level of the t
about half a mile. No port, no anchorage, no leeside; ulmi
always breakers more or less against tbat almost perpendicular
rocky coast; very often, tlu'ough the strong tide, races whirli
round the island, increaaiug in violence. The island is aboi
able only at one single point, and this only in calm weather
it is, besides, so st«ep-to tbat one ought to be accustome
to climb almost perpendicular rocks to get ashore, a:
no fresh water is to be found. Certainly the- jled dayed n
Jie)'e at this unitihahi table spot for refreahment and necessarie
where niothiiig is found hut roek and a litlU grass.'' 1 siucerel
sympathise with Admiral Irminger in his view of the inhoepj
table nature of this well-pro jiortioned and elevated rock. Smi
prospect there of a comfortable tura-in over night, and
ciressing-gown and slip])er8 and hot water in the monung, and
yet I think Antonio Zeno was quite right after alt He sava
nothing about going on the rock, out as the ih-et were bound fc
a fur distant land in tlio west, it was abeolutely necessary to till
in ample provision of iish, and off that island they may well havi
spent seven days in catching or procuring the needful suppli
But to sum up — whatever may be Admiral Irminger's opinioi
respecting the adoptability of the Zeno narrative of events
the Ffcroe Islands, the inexorable, unavoidable fact will stii
remain, that the names of Mouaco, Sudero Golfo, Streme (e
dently .Stromoe), and Andeford (evidently Andafer), are gir
on the Frislanda of the Zeno maj), and that they, and all the
J
¥
*
names relating to Frislanda, mentioned in the text, correspond
in position with the f^eography of tlie Faroe Islands of to-day.
So that it would be perversoness to deny the identity of the
two.
And now lot us see what is the result of leaving that which
is real, to indulge in that which is fanciful. Admiral Iruiinger
has of his own arbitrary choice elected to adopt Iceland :vs tho
reprenentative of the Frislanda of the Zeni. In order to carry
out his plau, he has been compelled to seek out spots in that
island upon which he can tbist the names applied by tho Zoni to
localities in the Faroe Islands. He finds uo Monaco or Monk.
Jle invents one. He tinds no (lulf of iSudero. He invt-nts one.
He finds uo Sanestol. He invents three queried ones, tho two
widest apart being some 50 miles distant from each other. It
is true ho finds a beautiful phonetic representative of Bon-
dendon in " Budardolr "; but unfortunately not one of all these
tits in with the requirements of the text. For cxam[ili-, he
selects two gulfs on the west coast of Iceland, named respec-
tively Brede Btigt and Fase Bugt, and as tho latter lies south
of the former, he arbitrarily gives it the name of Sudero Golfo,
and what is the consequence ? The description of Nicolo Zeuo's
expedition, which tallied exactly with the modtTU map of the
Fa3roe Islands, here breaks down altogether. Admiral Irmin-
ger's Sudero Golfo merely means Soutliern Gulf as distinguished
from its northern neighbour; but the Gulf of Sudero of tljo text
means the Gulf of the Southern Island, taking its name from
the actual islimd of Suderoe in tho Ffcroe Isles, the Gulf or
Fiord of Suderoe lying between it and Sandot^ Zeno's Sanestol.
The text says that " Zichmni's fleet sailed to the wesdttarih, and
with little trouble gained possession of Ledovo and other small
islands in tht^ Gulf of Sudero." Now I respectfully challenge
Admiral Irniinger to say wliether lie by a westward course
coidd sail into his Sudero Golfo on the west coast of Iceland ; and
I would ask, where are th« islands of Ledovo and Ilofe in said
gulf? Simply nowhere. But, to be brief, we will suppose Zeno
to have finally reached Admiral Irminger's Boudendon. We find
that its position by no means tallies with that of the Bondendon
in tho Zeno map, whereas that of Nonlerdahl on the island of
Stromoe exactly does, and then what follows ? After the meet-
ing of Zichinni and Nicolo Zeno, tho former, with his followers,
" departing thence went in triumphant manner towards Fris-
landa, the chief city of that island, on the south-east of it."'
Frislanda, i.e. the capital of the whole country, i.e. Thorshavn,
does lie on the south-east of the island of Stromoe ; but 1 wuuld
respectfully ask Admiral Irminger whether the chief city of
[and lies on the south-east of that island? I had alww.'^?.
'
1
420 Major — Zends Frislanda is not Iceland^ hut the F<vroe$.
thought it lay on the south-west. I could cominent on Porland
which, on page 5 of the Zeno text, is shown to lie near to Sc
land, and without doubt rejiresents the Orkneys, while Adraii
Irmiuger transports them to 200 miles' distance, but I think 1
have already said enough on this subject.
Admind Inntnger has reasoned eutirely from the data of ,
to-day. His honest noiiliern nature and his native commo^M
sense would revolt from the application to such small islands ^^^
those which compose the Freroe group, of such expressions as
that "after Ziclimni had put to flight the army of the enemy,
ambassadoi'S were sent from all parts of the island to yield the
country up into his hands, taking down their ensigns in eve
town and village." And yet this apparent exaggeration m
be more apparent than real. It must be remembered that t"
was r>()0 years ago. A so-called army then might be but a me
handful of men. "Tempora mutantur, nos et mutamur in illii
moreover, it was no unimportant event which was taking pla
Henry Sinclair, Earl of tlie Orkneys and Caithness, was taki
jjcrsonal possession of the Fseroo Islands as an addition to
lordships, and wlu'u we read of hw coming hy land with
army, conquering all tlie conntry as he went, it is obvious th
the chieftains progi-ess hj land is there indicaterl as distin
from the taking possession of the foasfs and islands, which
committed to the charge of Nicolb Zeno, It cannot be sup
posed that all this was done without a certain amount of formal
ceremony, warranting in a (considerable degree the apparently
inflated language above quoted.
But Admiral IrminMr has not confined himself to the
endeavour to iilontify the Frislanda of the Zeni >vith Icelau
He denies that Zeno was ever in Greenland or the Engronela
of the text, which country he also endeavours to identify vn
his favourite northern island of Iceland. This is not the pla
to enter again upon the whole story. Suffice it that, as in the
case of Frijhmda, both the text and map distinctly bear thei^j
testimony to his visit having been made to Engroneland, o^|
Greenland, while it is needless to say that Iceland, in both on^^
and the other, has its own individual and separate existence, m
that Admiral Irminger again places himself in opposition to
the very authors of the narrative and of the map. iJy thera it
is plainly shown that they distinctly recognise the existence of
two substantive realities, one Engroneland or Greenland, tho
other Iceland ; and that, in their opinion, Engroneland is not
Iceland ; nor Iceland, Engroneland. Admiral Irminger is of *
different opinion. Again I beg leave to side with the old
voyagers.
the
th«'
N
[Communicated by the Foreign OfBoe.]
With the exception of the points established by Captain
Bhikiston an'i Lieutenant Garuier, our kuowledge of the geo-
grapliicai position of places in Western China rests entirely
upon the autUurity of the Jesuit surveyora, whose results, Liid
down partly from ubservution uitli inefliinent instruments, and
purtly from the ecdiatiou of nutivt; inforniiitiun, ure necessarily
erroneo»i8 in many details, and are never exact. Their observa-
tions for latitude often deviate from the truth by so much as
6 or 7 miles, and their lonfi;itudes, even as re-arranged by
modern geographers, are probably vitiated by a still greater
error. Kevertheless their map is for general jiurposes a most
admirable work, and since it was never de!;i^iied to serve as a
route-map for tourists, or a chart for river-pilots, it would lie
ungracious to find fault with its deiicieucies ; especially whan
it is reniemlx'red that all existing maps of Eastern Asia are
more or less moditied reproductions of their survey.
Modern explorers ure, however, fair game, and it is at once
the duty and the delight of a traveller to search out the defect*
of his preilecessors. But, with the best will in the world, I
cannot establish any charge against Captain Blakiston. A
severe test of his work is tu observe the latitude of places the
position of which he had obtained by dead reckoning only, and
over a long distance; tried in this way he is always practically
exact- But I have applied th<! still more aeiirchiug criterium
uf ioiigituile by ciirouometer. His lunar observations, as adopted
by 31r. Arrowsmith, give 1' 55' (one degree fifty-five minutes)
for the difference of longitude between fcju chow and Chung
chiug. Selecting a season when a tjuick run could be made»
I carried a chronometer down from Su chow, and obtained a
difference of 1° 59' (one degree lifty-nine minutes) ; a most
satisfactory agreement. Captain Blakiston 's lunar observations
seemed to have gained in trustworthiness as he travelled farther
west, and at ISii chow his results east atid west of the moon are
very close together. There seems every reason for assuming
that his absohite longitude of Su chow is us near the truth as
luuar series will admit of.
But then comes Lieutenant Gamier and shocks the com-
placent feeling of finality by removing the position twenty-six
minulL-s westwards. The discrepancy is, after all, not very
serioui<, as sextant observations go; but still it is disagreeable,
and I have devoted a good deal of time and labour to \\.-4.
422 Babeb*« Approximate Determination of Positions
examinution. The first place m which, after much wanderin_
and waiting, I at lost found an almost unexceptionable oppor-
tunity lor obtaininn; lunar series, was Tzu-ta-ti, the head-quar-
ters of a Sifan chief, in lat. 2^^ 16' 45", and a few days later
another good opportunity occurred at the village of Na-erh-pn,
8 miles to the eastward. The two results, as may be seen by
the record of observations hereto appended, agree exceediu^ly
well, and place the mouth of the Lao-wa torrent, which lies
hall-way between the stations, in long. 102° 41'. Extending
tliis result by careful dead reckoning to Chia-ting-fii, and thence
by chronometer to 8ii chow, I came almost exactly upon the
point laid down by Captain BJakiston: the four walls of the
city would have nearly included both determinations. It seems,
therefore, safe to {irefer (Japtain Blakistou's iiositicm to that
adopted by LicuteDant Gamier, and to suppose that it is very
slightly in error.
The position of the more southern portions of my chart,
regards longitude, rests upon the accuracy of deis.d reckoni:
corrected by frequent observations for latitude and variati
of compass. In tliis way, on reducing the route-chart which
I kept when travelling witli ^Ir. Orosvenor. Yiinnan Fu falls
upon lOii " 41' (oddly enough the longitude of the Lao-wa river
mouth determined as above), differing by four or five minutes
only from Lieutenant Gamier's result. Again, if my cha
of the mission-route from Yiinnan Fu to T eng-yiieh (Momeii
bo examined, it will he seen that the difference of longitui
between those points, according to the dead reckoning, is 4'^ _
(four degrees seventeen minutes), whicli, if the jKJsition of
T'eng-yiieh according to the Sladen mission, viz. H.S^ 2G', be
accepted, would place Yiinntm Fu in 102° 43', practically the
situation in which 1 found it,
I put Tali Fu, by the same process, in long. 100" 3', goi
tweniy-five minutes west of Lieutenant Garnier's acceptati
But his px)sition also depends upon dead reckoning alone ; a
since my account of the distuuce between Yiinnan Fu and
T'^ng-yiieh, taking Tali Fu en route, seems correct enough, 1
submit that probBLbilities are strongly in my favour.
Accepting Blakiston's detemii nation for 8u chow Fu, Gar-
nier's for Yiinuan Fu, and the received position of T'eng-yiieh,
all my i-outc-work falls comfortably into place without straini:
or distortion.
I may add that I obtained a lunar scries of poor vol
at Ch'iao-chia Ting (B.), but I prefer to depend upon d^
reckoning for the jxisition. The record marked {!).) is
history of a failure, and I only append it for the sake of i\
Less. As far as the ohservatioii is concerned, it was the
ich
lis
fer
tes
ai^
op
be
the
II
in South-Western China. 423
and most deliberate of my lunar series ; its want of success may
be attributed to two causes: the Eastern Star was the most
ineligible, with one exception, of the whole year's category, and
the hill-forest below it was on fire.
The record of latitudes needs no comment except in one par-
ticular, viz. the rather serious difference from the positions
adopted by Lieutenant Gamier between Sii chow and Tung-
ch'uan. I do not know if his results for that section rest upon
sextant observations. It may be objected that my latitudes in
that part of the route depend upon altitudes taken only upon
one iide of the zenith, but this stricture will not apply to the
station of Chiang-ti, where the discrepancy is equally apparent.
At Tung-ch'uan and farther south the agreement is satisfac-
tory. For the position of Tali Fu Mr. Gamier appears to have
accepted the Jesuits' latitude ; indeed, as he had oarely time to
etoape from personal danger in that neighbourhood, it is not
to be supposed that he could have devoted much attention to
sextant manipulation.
It will be seen that my latitude observations from No. 48
downwards exhibit a considerable intrinsic sextant error, apart
and distinct of course from index error; but, beiog constant,
it was of no importance whatever, and I thought it well to
refrain from " tormenting the instrument."
The observations for compass variation (Table G.) were all
made by sun's altitude and azimuth, no sunset or sum-ise sights
being anywhere obtainable.
In Table (H.) I have compared my deduced positions of the
most important points with the determinations of the Jesuits
and of Mr. Gamier. The latter have been measured from his
general map, and are therefore somewhat loose.
E. COLBOBNE BaBEB.
Chung-ching, 25«A Jvly, 1879.
V 424 Baber'x Approximate Determination of Positions ^M
APPENDIX. ^H
^^
Obskbvatioks for LATirrDE. ^^W
PoiltioO of
Mran,
or wxcptol,
Lat.
1
^^^^V Statiox,
Ot)lM.i ob.srved
N. or 1*. uf
RcsalL
Rm*w. ^H
^m 1. PUaj^-Bban HBicn
Star N.
2d 3 J "g
1 r Fair. ■
H (Kivcr bank at enat
(a Urs. Ma.)
39 8 ^^^
Good. ^^1
H end or City).
■ 2. Ditto .. ..
Sun
28 39 10
^H 3. Yoii-tzQ-ngai
Sun
28 24 <►
28 24 0
Good. H
■ 4. T'an-t'ou .. ..
Stars.
(Sirioa)
SUH
28 I'J 50
28 19 50
Very good. ^H
^^^^k 5. Lin-cliiau^-eh'i ..
28 9 23
28 9 23
Good. ^^1
^^^F 6. Ti»p of Li-filiiin . .
8uii
28 3 21
28 3 21
^^H
^V 7. Ta-ngai-tang
Sun
27 31 29
27 31 29
^^H
^M 8. CIm-HbHug ..
Sua
27 25 23
27 ii5 20
Good. ^^H
^1 9. Ckao-t'uiig Fu
Star S.
27 20 42
^^H
^B (ExaninatioM Hall).
(Sirius)
^^^^1
■ ID. Ditto .. ..
8uu
27 20 29
^^H
■ 11. DilU> .. ..
Stars.
(Iligel)
27 20 41
27 20 35
Good. ^^^1
H 12. Dittu .. ..
Star S.
(15 Argus)
27 20 49
Very donbtfa^^
H 13. Ditt') .. ..
Bun
27 20 43
Very goo«l. ■
■ 14. Clm-lii-l*i;Un
Bun
27 l»i 31
27 16 25
Fiiir. ^^
^V 15. Cliiaitg-ti
RtarS.
27 0 0
f
Satisfactory. H
B 16. Ditto .. ..
(o Ur8. Ma.)
20 .S9 40
26 59 50
Satiiifactory».^^H
H 17. Yu-k'ou-t'ang ,.
Sun
26 54 52
20 54 45
Good. ^^H
H 18. I-cliL--luiiiu ..
Stars.
(Sirius)
20* 49 30
26 49 25
Satisr&otorjp^^^H
H 19. 6hnn-liu-s1iu
Sun
m 42 48
20 42 45
^^H
H 20. Huug-iibiU-ugai ..
Stars.
(Sirius)
2« 37 38
26 37 35
^^H
^1 21. Tung-cli'uan Fa..
Star 8.
2G 25 0
20 25 0
^^1
^p (Exaiuinaiiou IIiill).
(Sirius)
^H
^F ' 22. Hbiao-cliang-t'aug
Bun
20 19 50
26 19 45
^^H
H 23. Ciie-clii .. ..
Stars.
2U 14 37
26 14 30
^^H
1 24. Ditto
(Sirius)
BtarN.
2G 11 20
^^H
(a Urs. Ma.)
^W
H 25. Lai-t'ou-p'u . .
Star S.
(Sirina)
•m 1 42
Not vary gooiL ^1
H 26. Ditto .. ..
Slar N.
(aUrs.Mrt.)
2tJ 1 39
26 1 40-
Good. B
H 27. Ditto .. ..
Sun
2G 1 81?
Qood H
■ 28. Ditu> .. ..
SUir S.
2G I 87
Good. ■
(Sirius)
li _■
B 29. Kung-fllian
Stars.
25 45 7
Fair. ^^H
1 SO. Ditto .. ..
(Siriu.-i)
Star N.
(a Urs. Ma.)
25 44 49
23 45 0
^^^1
H 31, I/m-«Iiu-h«.j ..
Sun
25 id 10
25 40 0 Fair. ^^~
k A
in South- Western China.
(A.) Obbbbyatioks for Latitudk — cotUinued.
425
SlAlKW,
Oldect otMerrMl
N. or S. of
Eaalt.
Man,
or ecwpied,
Lat.
Bevahks.
ZhdIUl
^ t It
O t H
32. Hjiia-tlea-ohoit .. ,
BtaT S.
25 34 ti
25 33 50
Fair.
33. Ditto .. ..
(BiriuB)
Star N.
25 33 34
Fair.
(oUra.Ma.)
84, Mnng
BtorS.
(« Hydra)
25 23 26
[25 22 aoj
Very rougli.
35. Ditto .. ..
BtarN.
(aUn.Ma.)
25 22 9
Good.
S6. Ho-k'on ,. ..
Sun
25 17 10
25 n 0
Good.
37. Y(mg4in ., ..
Stars.
25 13 3Q
Good.
38. Ditto .. ..
(SUint)
RtarN.
(aUrB.MiL)
25 13 18
25 13 27
Good.
89. Cb*ang-p*o .. ..
St«r 8.
25 7 46
j
Gnnd.
10. Ditto .. ..
(SiriuB)
Star N.
(aUra.Mii.)
25 7 43
25 7 45
Good.
41. Ffin-ibui ling ..
Bun
25 5 24
25 5 24
Fair.
42. Pan-cl>'iiK> .. ..
SUrS.
25 3 t;
25 3 12
Fair.
43. Ditto .. ..
(Biritu)
Kt«rN.
25 3 18
Satiifactory.
(oUra. Mo.)
44. TQn-nwi Fq
Star S.
(SiriM)
25 2 41
Ciood.
45. Ditto .. ..
BtAirN.
25 2 35
Fttii-.
46. Ditto ,. ..
(iiVr8,M8.)
StarS,
(SiriuB)
25 2 45
•25 2 40'
Good.
47. Ditto .. ..
RturN.
(aUra.Ma.)
25 2 55
Fair-
48. Liao-i-p'u .. ..
49. Pao-an-ying
50. T6ng-h»iang
61. Ning-yuan Fu ..
(Examination Hall).
52. Ditto .. ..
58. Ditto .. ..
54. Haang-lien-p'u ..
55. Ditto .. ..
56. Ma-li-chai ..
57. Hsiao-kao-ch'iao
68. Ciiin-oh'iian-ch'iao
59. Hci-Li-CHOW
60. Ditto .. ..
61. Hiiiflo-pa .. ..
(J mile N.W. oO-
62. Ditto .. ..
(Same Station).
63. liu-Bhu-van
Jup.
Do.
1)0.
Do.
Do.
Star N.
(a Cephei)
Jup.
Star N.
(o Cephei)
Jup.
Do.
Son
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
28 54 85
28 49 53
28 28 22
27 54 14
27 54 3
27 52 41
27 41 19
27 40 10
27 32 8
27 22 14
27 11 82
26 39 35
26 89 35
26 34 10
26 84 23
26 35 56
28 54 0
28 49 25
28 27 45
27 58 80
27 40 45
27 31 3S
27 21 40
27 11 0
26 39 OJ
26 83 40
26 35 20
Fair.
Fair.
Good.
Good.
Good.
A little before
meridian: £air.
Good.
Good.
Good.
Satiafactory.
Good.
Rough.
Good.
Very good.
Very good.
Fair.
^^HH
^^^^^^^^^^^^^I^^^^^^^^^^^H
V 420 Baber'ji Approximate Determination of Positions ^M
^^H (A.) Obssbvatioks foir LATrtODE — continued. ^^^M
^^^^1 Station.
Poeitii.ii of I
N cirS of I
licsult.
Mean,
or accepted, RgMAaa.-.
^H
Zenith. 1
ljt.X.
^^1
Sun
26 38 67
■
26 28 30 Good. ■
^^H (2 miles N.E. by E. of).
^^^H 65. Wii-vru
Do.
26 53 47
26 53 10
Bough.
^^m 66. Ch'iBO-cbia T'iog
■StarN.
(a Cephd)
26 54 14
26 54 SO
Fair.
^^B Ditto .. ..
Mara
20 55 20
Fair.
^^^H 68. Ai-cliuo .. ..
StarN.
26 55 5
1 I
Fair.
^^M Ditto .. ..
(aCepUiii)
Mars
26 56 32 '[26 55 45|
Fair.
^^H 70. Ditto .. ..
Sun
26 56 6
J I
GcxL
^^^H 71. Mao-p'o
StarN.
(a Oephei)
26 37 55
26 58 20
Fair.
^^^P 72. Niu-ko-ch'ong ..
Sun
27 2 58
27 2 20
A Utile lata.
^^^H 73. Lung-shu
Do.
27 18 27
27 18 0
Bough.
^^H (\ mile 8. of).
^^H 74. ?ai-fa-cb'i .. ..
Do.
27 33 2
27 32 25
Fair.
^^^H 75. SaD-chiu-chai
Do.
27 39 27
27 39 0
Fair.
^^^H 76. Miao-va
Do.
27 50 0
..
Not worth moS
^^H (i mile E.N.E. oQ-
^^^H 77. Yang-liu-flhu
Do.
27 50 48
27 50 10
Fair.
^^^H 7S. Huang-p'ing
StorN.
(a Copbei)
27 52 0
27 52 40
Good.
^^M Ditto .. ..
Miirs
27 53 23
1
Fair.
^^m 80. Sba-ho
Sun
27 67 22
27 56 40
Good.
^^^1 81. Kaa-t'icn-pa
Star N.
(a Copbei)
27 57 16
27 58 0
Poor.
^^H Ditto.. .. ..
Murs
27 58 40
Good.
^^^H 83. H^inog-kiio-ghu ..
8uu
28 0 2
27 59 25
Good.
^^H (South end).
^^m 84. Yfr-k-ou .. ..
Btor N.
(a Cephei)
28 0 26
28 1 U
Fair.
^^H Ditto .. ..
Mara
28 1 35
Fuir.
^^H Ditto .. ..
San
28 2 10
Not worth tn
byatoodw
tnmUMomm
^^m
^^^M an. Tmg-chiaug-ao ..
Do.
28 5 20
28 4 45
Oood. J.
^^H 88. Yn-fAiig-kou
^^^H (Farm bouse).
Do.
28 13 26
28 12 50
Qood. M
■
^^H 89. Cliing-ti .. ..
StarN.
(a Cepbei)
28 13 42
28 14 15
Fair. H
^^H Ditto .. ..
Mars
28 14 51
I 1
1 Fair, but horfl
^^H 91. BlufTE.ofChing-ti
Sun
28 15 5
28 14 30 i Good.
^^^1 92. Kuo-oli'Uan-t'aii ..
Mara
y8 13 29
28 13 0
Very good. ^
^^^H 93. liBin-tien-tza
Sun
28 14 51
28 14 15
Good. ^
^^^B ^4. Uuaiig-long-oh'i
Do.
28 35 30
28 35 0
Fair. 'l|H
^^H US. U mile W. of
Do.
28 38 38
28 38 0
Fair. V
^^H IkL'ng-ymn Bridge.
^^H 96. gil-cboa Fu
28 46 50
Good. fl
Do.
28 47 23
^^^M (N. ooraer of).
■
^^^B 97. 2 miles abovo Niu-
Do.
28 48 11
28 47 35
SatisfaotortH
^^^r abih-pion.
^
■ (Sec Chart).
■
K J
in South- fFestem China.
427
(A.) OssKBYATioira for Latituok — continued.
SlAIIOif.
l\HHiDH of
Ol(}ect otoenred
ZvDUb.
Eeanlt.
otacapud,
LaU
RUIJLUfi.
96. Xi<«h'i-nliaiig ..
Sqq
■
O § it ' O f*
29 1 15 2^ 0 40
Fair, remit
f Upper cod),
Do.
29 25 31
29 24 55
doubtful.
Fair.
(i milo above centre),
ItiO. T'ungRiTer
(Moatli of, B.B.>.
Do.
29 34 4
29 33 30
Fair.
101. Chia-ting Fu ,.
(MiildloofE.wslI).
Do.
29 34 40
^ 34 5
Very rough.
102. Lu-lu.p'ing
Do.
29 18 4S
29 18 10
Fair.
103, Ta-fieo-di'ih ..
Do.
29 24 0
29 'ia 25
Faif.
104. Ma-h3ii .. ..
Do.
29 21 18
aa 20 45
Satisfactoiy.
105. Fu-liii .. .. ..
Do.
29 21 46
29 21 10
Uood.
lOG. HcMshijiag-ptt
Do.
29 21 29
29 20 55
Good.
10?. Lno-wti^bitinTi
Do.
29 Iti 0
9
Unsatiiifiictorj'.
(l milo W:e.W.).
lOa TsEtt-ta-U „ .,
Do.
29 17 85
Very good.
lOa Ditto ,. ..
Star S.
(Minus)
29 17 27
29 16 45
Good,
110. Ditto .. ..
StarN.
(aUrH,Mft,)
29 16 0
Veiygood.
111. Ijao-wa-IiflU&n
Son
29 15 33
29 14 50
Good.
112. Na-erh-jja .. ..
Do.
29 ifi 2a
Poor.
113. Ditto .. ..
StarN,
(ftU«.Ma,)
29 14 37
Good.
114. Ditto ., ..
8tftTS.
(Spicft)
29 16 14
29 15 25.
Fair.
115. Ditto ., ..
KUr N.
(aUrs-Mo.)
29 14 38
Fair.
110. Ditto
Stars.
(Bpica)
29 1« 13
Good.
117. Gh'D-la raTiuo ..
StarN.
29 19 50
]
Fair.
(1 mile B. of mouth).
(nUn-Ma.)
29 20 20
118. Ditto ,. ..
Stars.
(Spiea)
Sua
29 20 53
Good.
119. Wan-tung .. ..
29 32 37
29 32 5
Fair, hut suii
too high to bo
truatworthj.
120. Ta-chion-la., ,,
Star ST.
^ 2 40
Good,
(NoftT S. Gate).
C>Ur«.M».)
121. Ditto .. ..
StarN.
30 2 25
Poor.
132. Ditto .. ..
C>Urs.Ma.)
Stars.
(Aatftres)
30 3 49
30 3 &H
Fair.
123. Ditto .. ..
Star e.
(6pica)
BO 3 28
Good.
J24. Ln-tiDgKjh'ioo ..
StarN.
C7U».Mft.)
29 54 27
Good.
125. Ditto .. ..
Star 8.
29 55 S
Fair.
128. Ditto .. ..
OVirg.)
BtorS.
29 55 21
■29 54 55^
Good.
127. Ditto .. ..
29 54 43
Good.
C^UmMa.)
126. Fu-ohiianp .. ..
Star 8.
29 33 23
2a 32 55
Fair.
(S.E. entl).
(Spioa)
V
428 "Babeb^s Approximate Determination of Pontions
Obsbryatioks fob Lonoitxtdb.
(B.)
Ch'iao-chia Ting, 18 Sept. 1877. Obs. for Longitude, in n. laL 26° 54' 52",
with Sextant C.
Adjusted slight side error. Ohservod Index error, 25"+. Observed Baro-
meter 27*11, and Thermometer 71°.
Time obs. Star W.
Time obs.
StarE.
Watch.
DoQble AIU. Jnpiter.
Watch.
Doable Alta. Slan.
H. H. 8.
O t II
B. H. R.
O 1 II
8 19 15
58 49 40
8 2G 40
65 45 20
8 21 40
58 10 20
8 28 15
66 18 3
8 23 35
57 37 50
8 29 25
66 47 30
LCNAB DlBTAHCES.
Watch.
DIst. Jnpiter tt. N.L.
Watch.
Dlst. Mars ft
.F.L.
H. M. 6.
8 84 20
8 37 65
8 40 10
8 44 15
8 47 3
O 1 II
45 55 20
45 56 20
45 57 10
45 58 10
45 59 0
H. H. S.
8 55 2
8 58 85
9 0 40
9 3 25
9 5 20
O 1
29 21
29 20
29 19
29 18
29 18
20
30
20
40
0
Time obs.
StarE.
Watch.
Doable Alts. Man.
H. U. 8.
9 16 55
9 18 23
9 19 48
o
81
82
82
50 10
15 40
39 20
Time obs.
StarE.
WaUli.
Double Alts, p CeU.
H. V. B.
*11 25 46
11 27 3
11 28 38
o
78
78
79
/ «
28 20
57 0
16 20
Lunar D
I8TAK<
;es.
AVatch.
Dist. Saturn fr. F.L.
H. M. 8.
o
1 II
11 34 11
11 39 5
11 41 10
11 45 2
U 47 2G
34
34
34
34
34
20 20
18 30
17 50
16 30
15 50
Time obs. Star E.
Time obs.
Star W.
Wutch.
Double Alts.
ilars.
Watch.
Double Alts. /3 Ccti.
H. H. 8.
O 1
tt
B. H. S.
11 52 32
11 54 18
11 55 42
O 1 II
83 38 50
83 54 20
84 8 20
12 56 43
12 58 16
13 0 6
13 1 3
13 2 I
86 32
86 10
85 42
85 26
85 10
50
0
10
10
40
Eesvltb : By Jupit
, , By Satui
or ..
rn ..
.. 103 3-5
.. 102 39
:. long.
102 51 i
* TAiui thoxiLi \» U\i. 24. m. 468.
in South'fFettem China.
429
(C.)
Tzii-ta-ti, A.M. ♦24th March, 1878, in N. lat. 29" 16' 44". Observed with
Sextant B.
Timeobs.
StarW.
Timeobs.
8tarE.
Wfttdi.
Double Alts. Kegnliu.
W»Wi.
Doable AlU.
Vega.
H. M. 8.
O i it
H. H. 8.
o /
M
1 88 46
73 15 30
1 48 52
64 44
10
1 40 5
72 41 40
1 50 13
65 14
10
1 41 7
72 14 20
1 51 15
65 38
30
1 42 10
71 47 20
1 52 27
66 5
30
1 43 18
71 18 10
1 53 29
66 29
20
LUHAB DiSTAKOKB.
Watch.
Dl8tSplcafr.F.L.
Watch.
DiM.JnpIterfr.N.L.
B. U. 8.
O 1 II
H. H. 8.
O 1 U
2 23 30
48 52 20 —
3 a.
u.
4 0 10
50 7 0
2 26 40
48 52 50 —
Ther. 58°.
4 2 26
50 6 10
2 27 58
48 53 10 —
Bar. 26-98.
4 4 34
50 5 40
2 35 33
48 .55 50 —
I.E
1
' 50".
4 6 15
50 5 10
2 88 24
48 57 30 —
1
'30".
4 7 57
50 4 30
2 41 51
48 58 50 —
1
' 50".
4 10 4
50 3 50
2 45 50
49 0 20 —
1
' 30".
4 12 38
50 3 10
Time obs. Star E.
Time obs.
StarW.
W«td>.
Double AlU. Altalr.
Watch.
Double Alt*. Spica.
H. U. 8.
O 1 II
H. M. 8.
O 1 tt
4 20 16
77 3 40
4 80 27
57 1 40
4 21 28
77 85 30
4 31 55
56 29 10
4 24 3
78 41 0
4 83 0
56 5 20
4 25 11
79 10 0
4 34 1
55 43 10
4 26 11
79 35 20
4 85 27
55 11 50
Note.— Subtract fonr seconds &om all times.
Besult : By Spica .
, , By Japiter
(D.)
102 39-5
102 89-3
102 39-4 E. long.
Tstt-ta-ti, A.M. 25th March, 1878, in K. lat. 29° 16' 44". Sextant B.
1 . 30 A.M. Ther. 67°. Bar. 26 • 76.
Index Error
. .. 1 20
t »
f 9
.. .. 1 40
.. .. 1 20
> >
.. .. 1 20
•
t »
.. .. 1 40
Time obs. Star W.
Timeobs.
StarE.
Watch.
Double Alts. Begnliu.
Wateh.
Doable Alts. Vega.
H. M. 8.
O 1 II
H. K. 8.
Q 1 II
1 51 31
65 28 0
2 2 12
71 47 10
0 52 55
64 50 0
0 3 39
72 20 40
0 54 27
64 10 10
0 4 54
72 50 40
0 56 10
63 25 10
0 6 11
73 19 50
0 57 20
62 54 20
0 7 40
73 55 10
430 Babeb'« Apptoximate Determination of Positions
LVNAB D18TAKCE8.
Watcli.
Dtot. Splca fr. F.L.
Watch.
Dtet.AItaIrfr.NJ^
B. X.
B.
0
/
M
H.
H. 8.
0
*
M
2 15
25
62
6
50
2
33 24
48
23
0
0 18
39
62
7
80
0
36 18
48
22
0
0 21
44
62
8
10
0
40 58
48
21
20
2 50
12
62
20
10
8
2 4
48
17
10
0 54
0
0
21
80
0
4 17
0
16
20
0 57
55
0
22
80
0
8 49
0
14
20
3 12
53
62
29
20
8
22 15
48
12
40
0 15
20
0
80
10
0
28 42
0
10
50
0 18
36
0
81
0
0
80 87
0
10
30
Timeobe. BtarE.
Timeobs.
StarW.
Wdtdi.
Doable Alts. Altalr.
Watch.
Doable Altt.
Sptca.
H. X.
B.
0
/
**
H.
H. 8.
0
t
w
8 47
89
65
20
20
3
59 40
66
8
50
0 48
45
65
47
40
4
0 59
65
41
20
0 50
SO
66
83
10
4
2 10
65
16
50
0 51
87
67
0
5(?)
4
8 23
64
50
20
0 52
57
67
86
0
4
4 33
64
26
40
Index Error .
1
It
80-
■ Bar. 26-77. Ther.
64°.
50
20
80
30
30
30
NoTB. — Snbtract four seoonds from all times.
Besults : By Spica :
By Altair:
(E.)
102 32 30 E.
102 24 45
102 25 30
101 23 15
101 31 0
101 44 45
Bejectcd.
Na-erh-pa, 7tli April, 1878. Obs. for Longitude, in N. lat. 29° 15' 25"
Note.— Subtract four seconds from (1) and (3), not from (2).
Observed with Sextant C.
Time obs. by 0.
Watch.
Doable Alts
• Q
H. U. 8.
0 /
«#
2 2 59-5
105 32
40
4 7
105 8
40
5 7
104 46
30
6 12
104 22
50
7 6
104 1
0
in South'Wesiem China,
431
DiaTAiKJES of Boh from Moon's N Ji.
Watch.
Distanoes.
H. H,
8.
o
/
l<
2 13
45
49
46
10
16
47
46
50
18
35
47
30
21
25
48
20
23
36
49
20
25
41
49
50
27
50
50
30
29
31
50
50
31
81
51
30
34
7
52
0
35
43
52
40
37
44
53
10
39
49
53
50
42
40
54
30
44
52
55
10
f
Kme obs. by ©.
Watch.
Doable AIt«
. Q.
H. 31.
8.
o
1
,,
2 49
15
87
24
SO
50
20
86
57
60
51
17
86
34
0
52
10
86
IS
0
53
10
85
47
20
X Error .. 10"+
Bar. 26-50.
.. 15"+
Ther. 72°.
.. 10"+
(P.)
Na-erh-pa ; same evening (7th April, 1878).
Note. — Subtract fonr seconds from all times.
Observed with Sextant C.
Bar. 26-70.
Ther. 70°.
Timo obe. Star E.
Watdi. Double Alts. Begnliu.
H. M. 8. o / »
7 5 39 119 13 80
7 12 119 49 20
8 40 120 23 0
9 55 120 52 10
11 10 121 20 30
Timo obs.
Watch.
H. H. 6.
7 26 15
27 24
28 30
29 38
30 42
StarW.
Oonble Alta. Betelgeux.
0 1 II
91 11 20
90 43 10
90 16 20
89 48 10
89 22 0
Distances of Pollux from Moon's F.L,
Watcb. Distances.
H.
M.
8.
O 1
«l
7
39
31
42 10
50
42
34
10
10
45
28
9
0
47
31
8
10
50
8
7
10
432 "RtLBVS^s Approximate DetermiruUMn of Positions
D18TAKOE8 OF Pollux from Moon's F.L. — eontinued.
Watch. DIsUnces.
H. H. 8.
0
/ «
53 15
5 0
56 31
3 30
58 15
3 0
8 0 15
2 30
2 81
1 0
6 11
41
59 40
8 2
58 30
9 52
58 0
Time obs. Star W.
Time obs.
StarE.
Wfttch. Donble Alts. Proqron. |
Watch.
Doable Alta. B«
neta
H. H.
8- 0 . „ !
H. V. 8.
0
#
4§
8 16
21 109 30 0
8 26 55
78
59
10
17
S3 109 4 0 '
28 13
79
24
10
18
82 108 44 30
29 23
79
46
10
19
44 108 19 0 ;
30 29
80
7
30
21
0 107 50 50 1
31 46
80
32
40
Bar. 26-87.
Ther. 06°.
Results : By Sun (E.) ..
.. 103 i
ih
, , By Pollux (F.)
••
.. 102 26
15
(G.)
102 43 45 E. long.
Obs. fob Compass Variation.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
Mar.
Aug.
Sept.
Oct.
Feb.
M^.
> »
1 1
April
May
1876
1877
1878
Var. E.
YXJNNAN-FU
Lu-ku
Ning-yuan Fu
Heiao-kao-ch'iuo
Tlch-hsiang-fang
Hui-li Chou
Ohiang-chou
Lo-po-ti
Ai-ohuo
Yeh-ohu-chai
Short distance from preceding
Hsin-tien-tza
Two miles north of preceding
Ya-k'ou
Yu-fang-kon
SU-cuou
I Tao-ssa-kuan
I Lu-lu-p"ing
Mount Ma-lieh
Lao-wa-hsuan
Tztt-ta-ti
Haiao-ma-ch'ang
Ta-cbien-lu
Lu-ting-ch'iao
30
45
40
25
6
30
5
15
80(?) 1
7
30 1
4
10 !
4
3
20
3
30
30 :
30
35 I
25 j
50
50
8 50
4 30
in SoxUh-Westem China.
433
(H.) CSoHFABisoK of Besults with those accepted by tho Jesuit
SuBVETOB, and by Libvt. Gabnikb.
Placss.
JeialU.
Uetit.
Garntrr,
Ta-cbien-la
Lat
bI
i
«
0
t ,'
o •
ti • > ,i
Long
1012
18
0-mei Hsiea
lat.
29
34
n
Long
103
47
Ohia-tingFu .. .. .,
L*t.
29
34
29
27 30
it It iW mm
Long
IW
103
55
Fo-lin
Lat
29
21
10
" •
LoBg
102
67
Ch'ieQ-wei Hsiea .,
Lst
29
10
29
9
11 » ■ ■ ■
Ltmg
104
11
104
S
Su-chou Fa
LutT
23
*G
50
28
38 25
„
Long
104
SI
30
101
45 as
104 30
P'iDg-Bban HflieD . > . .
Lftt,
28
3if
8
28
31
*t ** **
Loog.
104
2.1
104
18 30
Yueh-bfli Ting .. ..
Lat.
28
38
It ■■ **
Long.
102
43
Fa-kuaa-to'mi
Lot.
28
37
U - . i ,
Long.
104
10
Lnl-po T'mg ,
Lat
LoDg.
28
103
18
50
30
Ning-yMan Pu
Lat,
27
53
SO
27
50
n ■ • • .
Long
102
27
102
12
Tung-sljim Hsiei) •-
Lttt,
27
48
j» '• -'
Long.
103
62
Chao-t'ung Fh
Lut,
27
20
35
27
20
27 2<F
ts • * ■ ■
Lone.
103
53
1(J3
50
103 25
Ch'iao-cliia Ting ..
Lat
26
54
50
,1 . • . .
Long.
103
R
lIru4i-chou ,- ,.
Lat.
26
39
26 38
n .. •• ••
Long
102
26
^,
102 n
Tong-cL'nfin Fu
Lat.
26
25
26
21
26 25
|.j » ■ ■ ■
Lonp,
103
25
103
25 40
loa 2
Haun-Uen-<|^ou
Lat.
25
33
50
^ .h **
Long.
im
19
Yiin-nan Fu .. .. ..
Lat
25
2
40
25
G
25 4
„
Long
lOS
41
30
102
51 40
102 m
Lu-f&Dg Esien
Lat
25
9
25
12
'' <» -.
Long,
102
2
30
102
14
K.oong-t'ung Hsiea
Lat,
25
10
20
25
I'i
„ . , , ■
Long
101
40
30
101
55
Ch'u-h»iHiig Fu .. ..
Lnt
26
1
45
25
t5
„ '" "
Long
101
26
10
101
43
Cben-nan-cJion
Lat.
25
11
xo
25
It!
Cbact-cboij
Long
101
9
40
101
24
IjuL
25
35
25
38
44 > . «p ..
Long
100
13
28
lOO
31
Tu-ltPu
Lat,
25
41
50
25
44 25
25 44
„
Long
100
3
1D2
22
100 27
Yung-ch'oDg Fo
Lat.
25
7
10
25
4 !»
ft -. ..
Long
99
6
99
2t!
T'^Dg-ylieh
Lut
25
1
45
24
5g
ti i 1 *»
Long
98
24
S8
45
Chung-ehing, 25th July, 1879.
TOL. XLIX.
^^^^^^^^^(434)^^^^^^H
^^^^^^VOMTME THE
FORTY-NINTH. ^^
^m Abal-bush, the. 21.
Aff;baa Tribes, ^c — coHiinmeiS^^^^
■ Abate Fortim tlit% 178.
Karkhanfl, the, 214. ^^^^|
■ Abbay, Rev. Biclmrd. 318, 350.
Kbn'Qizaiii, the, 213. ^1
■ Abd-el-Rabi, 5.
KhelB, the Amand, 213, 235, ?»&fl
^m Abd-«l-Rahim, 8a) yiil, 5.
, the Vm\ 231. ■
^M Abu Uuwawit TCiiina, 5.'i.
■ Abii M<vglira, liill-i of, 40
*!,.-. T ..»-.: ni « ^^H
., the Sandar, 21.3, 214, 248. V
^M ArgLati mid TScli/eli Tribea found on the
-, the Sulimii'ii. 213. 214, 2a#jM
■ Tttl— Cbo'tia'li lioutc, tubjo of, 5J15
^H el teq.
n — iTi '., oio aiit ^^1
Khwaidii'dscaid, the, 214. ^^|
Kula'zata, the, 213. ^^^H
Lanra'tiia, the, 213. ^^^^M
■ 220.
^B — , ^ dwelUngB of,
Mahigaiit, the, 218. ^^^H
■ 220 et acq.
Ma'likaia, the, 213. ^^^H
■ = , houauless, 222.
Muizakai:!, the. 213. ^^^H
V Afxhau I!<»ld^t. 1^)5.
Matpa'nJK, the, 213. ^^^^|
■ AfghHti Tribc-H uiut with oa the Tal—
Mehtarzui^ the, 213, 214. ^H
^^ Cho'tia'U Koine, 212.
Mula'ziiia, the, 214. ^_^H
^^^ Abda1», the, 212.
Mii'rs. the. 214. ^^H
^^H Aohukmis, the, 212, 2:i5.
Mureia'ngzaiB, (lie, 214. ^^^^|
^^H A'li'zaiti, the, '214.
Mu'sizau, the, 213. ^^^H
^^^H Adwa'nis, the, 213.
Na'csaia, the, 214. ^^^1
^^^^1 Ajnb2iiii4. the, 'll'A.
Nu'rzais, the, 213. ^^^H
^^^H AkhirziiiB, the, 'J 14.
IVai'zairi, the, 213. 214. 236, 243^H
^^H A'li'zub. the, 21». 214, 235.
rit^biii. bSayadj) of the, 213. ^H
^^^^1 Amnziiis, tins 214.
Puual/aiR, the, 212. ^1
Sauuxui^, the (or Sudoayea). 212. ^|
^^^H Awozais, the, 214.
^^H Bagan&u, the, 213.
Bara'ngKuio, the, 213, 214. ^H
^^H Ba'nkzaia, the. 212.
Sargurais, the, 213. 214. ^1
^^H Batamis, the, 213.
Sayudx of the Plahio, 213, 242. ^M
^^H Bimis, the. 213.
Shabozaia, the, 214. ^M
^^^^1 BralininzaiH, the, 213.
Sha'di'ziiia, the, 213. ^M
^^^H Dar^'uii*, tlie, 214.
Shami^aia, the, 213, 236. ^H
^^^H Buuinrtt, the, 213.
Ta'm'iis, the, 214. ^H
^^^H Dura'niis the, or Alxla'IU, 212.
Tu'ri'iw, the Spin, 213.
^^^H Gaiii^iiluib, the, 2i:^.
Turi'n.-*, the Tor, 213, 235 H Mf.
^^^1 Habi'bKaiH, the, 212.
TragaraiK, the, 214. ^^
^^H Huidur/aiH, the, 213.
Wahur.H, the, 214. ^M
^^^1 Uaikalzak llie, 213.
Ya'»ing7Mi», the, 213. ^H
^^^H Uu'ru'iis, the, 213.
Zakhpe'k, the, 213, 214. |H
^^H Kll'kar^ the, 213, 217, 238, 239, 2)1 ,
24G. M
^^^1 242, 244 ft teq.
.VguthemeniH, 158. ^H
^^^1 Ka'kozaia, the, 212.
Aguve Anierii.nua, 168. ^H
^^H Kamu'lziiU. the, 213.
AgTon, l.i(>. ^^^^H
^^^H Kiiuoz.iia, the. 2U.
.\Ulquist. BOA. '^^^H
^I^H INDEX. 435 1
Ahmffd El-'Dkbi. 14.
Bah River, 198. ^H
Abmed KupUa Muaaltum, Commander,
Bttiu'nai, 191, 246. ^H
4, 18, H5.
— Pom, 198, 203, 210. ^H
AitiiiWfirtln 364.
Akftbuli-Ayliih Wind, 33, 34.
Fnrt, t"
fm^^^ I/'k«.»'«» lOQ ^^^H
Bala Dh&'ka, 206. ^H
WBylali. ;t+-48.
'Akabnt el-Misriyyel), 40.
in MifMii' ITTtfri'n "'in ^^H
Valley, 204. ^M
Alber. M.. 151.
Balosu Ea're'z, 238. ^M
All Brahim, 5.
Ali'zai, 233.
208. 1
tn Klin'iihflil Kha'n lOfi 211
tn n-trn'l *^f>rt "^ ^^H
*A Vlimro'vwi 1 OT ^^^^H
Almjsua, pirates of, 15^.
Aloys Si)n.-ng«>r, obsscrvations on extent
• lO A.UWI& in, IJi. n^^^H
&c., on tiie road, 241. 1
of Mtdiati, by, '4.
Ba'rkhft'n^ nipplieH in. 207. ^^M
A'limdu'Q rouU', 206.
Barkliu'm, 208, 20\K 211, 213. ^H
vVjnir, Lioutenaut. 4, 10, IG, 17, 23, 29,
~ ■ , pOUUlUllUIl Ul| £i£i\f* ^^^^H
7:5,78,98, 119.
. roads in, 199. ^H
.Vmira't, clan, 19.
Bftrometric and Thcnnomctric Read- ^H
Ariilerson, Dr., 20{> uole.
inga, Ac, made on the Tal — Cho'- ■
Aiidn», S., islttod, 176.
tia'ii Route, 251j. 1
Appendiceii to Lieutenant Temple's
Baraho'r, road from, to Sliaran Ku'ro'z, 1
Acooant of thu Country truverscd
202. 1
by the Sucond Column of the T&l —
BoTBo' Stream. 19G, 204. ^J
Cbo'titi'li FiL'ld Force.
BateM, Mr.. 383. ^H
A|i>pondix A. Itincmry from Knla
Batteriu Madonna, tlic, at Linn, 153. ^^M
AbduUali Kha'u, 2:51.
Becquerol, M., 347 note^ 354 note, ^H
B, Tiibli- of Harometric
Beke, Dr., 43, 44, 115. ^H
and Tliermiamutric Ecadiiigx und
Belluct;!, M., 7, 347. ^H
Remarks nn WttitLer duriu;; the
Belo'cb Couutrj', 207, 209, 224. ^M
March, 'I5G.
— — Tribte, the, 214, 218, 254. ^W
0, Spellitip of I'iflce- Names
mot with ou tho Tal — 1
occ-urrinjf in the Sketch-Map of the
Clio'tla'li Route. 212. J
Mureh, 257.
IHi'ma'ni'fl, the, 214. ^^H
■ D, Identiflctttiou of Old
Ourchii'ni\ the, 214. ^^B
Routea with t\w Boadri. Plncee,
riihji'iii'8, the, 2H. ^^H
&e., fuund on tlio Map. 287-31J.
Khe'tm'ns, the, 214. ^H
ApoltontuB Rbodiu.M, 157.
Khidra'ni'«, the, 214. ^H
Arubirt, volcanic rctjiona of. 114,
Lnga'ri's, the, 214. ^^H
Aragn, 373 and note.
Lu'nds, ttie, 214. ^H
Arambi Stream, l!>G, 204.
Marriis the, 2 14, 2 1 8. ^H
-Xriz el-Sidrah, 21.
Moza'ri's, the, 214. ^^|
Amoaen, Thorsley, 404.
Naliarg, the, 214. ^H
Arrowamith, Mr., 421.
Bu'mi'N, llie, 214. ^H
Atlieniniis, 162.
BloI Tamdi, race of the, 3. ^^H
Ayn el-Kurr. 131.
'Ukbeh, or "^ Sons of tliu Heel,'' 5. ^M
Ayiitiuali, 17, 18.
BcswLok, Mr. H.. 338 note. ^M
Hii,f nf Q
Bhoo^it. 208 and note. ^H
Biddutph, (if-neral, 190, 197. ^H
, 9Jn\ Ul, 17.
Bilier, G. Colborne, Approximate Dc-
Bir el-SIikhi, 47. ^H
ttruiLiintioii of Puaitioan in South-
Blakiiitoii, Captalu, 421, 422. ^H
WfHtern CLinn, 421 ct *eq.
Bolii'n PaB-t Route, 227. ^H
B<id«a'n to Ali'zai, 233.
Bolk', Ur. Curl, 376 note. ^H
Baer. K. E. von, 325 iwte, 343 note.
BundeiidoD, 41(>, 417. ^^H
373 noU, 383 et tfq. note.
Bonrilctton, 382. ^H
Bagaraui, route via, lOG.
Bo'rai, roiiils from, to India, 204. ^^M
Uftgha'o Vnllcv, roads through, to
Ynlk-y, 191, 209. 210, 211, 248. ^M
IridLi, 201.
, (Iwelliiigs in the, 222. ^^|
!
^ ^M
436
INDEX.
Bo'mi Valley, population of the, 213,
220.
, road from, into the ZhoT)
Valley, 203.
— , road to, from tLe Sbo'r
Valley, 198 and note.
-, roails connecting the.
with the Tal and Chu'tia'li Boiitea,
203.
, supplies in the, 207.
Boinnical rcjoniu, 357 et leq.
Bowlin. M.. 347 note
Biicli, Lt>fi})old vnn. 373.
BwilicovH<5 IsUit, i75.
Biijat-Bftdii, or Plain of Badd, 127-129.
Btirut, M. Amedee, 12.
Borckbardt, 41.
Borlon, R P., ItlBcrarles of the Second
KludiTJal Expc-dition : Memoir ei-
pluiiiiii^ tlio new Map of Midiaii
(nailti by the Ej^yptian Stuff-oQictrs,
by, 1 et tea,
, R. I' ., Visit to Lissa and Pelii-
goaa, l&t (( xeq.
Bragalin, Adiuinil, 159.
'Draliini liiti Mukbul, guide, 26.
Brandis, Dr., :i.">l.
Breiimntior. M.. 332, 334.
Br»oki:, Sir [Richard. 338 not«.
Brown, Dr. J. C. 341 mtt.
Browue, Colimi-U 190.
Brii>is*'h-Bi'y, Dr. Heinrich, 43.
BrUKsch, 377, 379.
Ciesar. Julius, Obaervatioa on British
Tree.-, 330 <t »cq.
Caoale dl Lis.ia, 171.
Oatamanco, l.iS,
Oatalinieh, Miijor, lii5.
Oaussin rlo Poro.nval, 45.
Cliitt-tin^^-fu, 422.
Ohimju'n, 206,211,244.
, escursion frum, to the Zhol*
Valley. '201.
, Ui Bain'ufii, 24G.
, to thu Zholj Valley, 203, 245.
, road from (doubtful) to
Sho'ri'n, 203.
China, South-Westem, approximate de-
t<>rmiaiitioa of poeitious in, by G.
Colbonie Buljcr, 421 et »eq. Obacr-
vati cma for latitude, 421 -427 ; fur loii-
gitudfl, &c., 428— 132; comparison of
resulta with those ac(!epto<i by tho
Jesuit Surveyor and Lieut. Qarnier,
4S3.
ChoV Stream, 196.
Cho'r Tarap Ranne, 254.
Cho'tia'li, 190.
^, road t* >, from the Han Pass, 201.
Churma Spring, 205.
Chung ching, 421.
Clarke, Mr. C, Telegraph Eng
4, 15. 26.31, 4.^.48,96.
Coglieviaa, Dr., 176.
Columella (cited by HehnX 372.
Comitut District, vnleauiam of, 173, 11
. Port of, 168.
Conifene, the, 328 et leq.
Crops and Food-graina on tlie Tn
Cho'tia'li Utiute, 207.
Qioss, Mtijor, HM8 note.
Cunkovicft Gorge, the, 153.
Cuzzola Island, defence of, 160.
Dttlzell, Mr. N. A., 351, 852.
Diir^ial Spring, 205,
Diirgi' Kiver, 198.
Diirwavah Effemli, Lieut., 4.
Darwin, ?G6, 368, 876 note
Daubt'ny, Dr., 374.
De Ctmdolle, 325 note, 300, 371.
Dtf. John, 403.
Helilo. 377.
Dl luttrius. Tyrnnl of Pharos, 157.
Denmark, Queen Margaret of, 405.
De'ra Glia'zi Kha'n, rortd fmiu, ti) Me-
klitar, 204; road to, from Bo'rai
VuHey, 204.
De'rania Vidley, 252.
Dibbugh, Mimalain, 63,
Dimon, Little. 402.
DionysiuD thu Elder, 156.
Dof and Pialiin Vnlleyf, mhabit«otB of
countTy lH.>tw<-f.>n, 2i;i.
Dot' Valley, 197. 238. 239.
to the Bo'rai Vallev, popo-
ktion. 220.
■ to the Bo'rai. snppliosi, 208^
. populatioi] of the, 220.
DojimJ, Dr. de, 1G6.
Dtimenico Silvio, Doge, 150.
DomniuB, Saint, 155.
Drascovoft Vidley, 168-
Dulxmrdieu, Bernard, 175.
Dugnid, Mt. D, Chief Engineer
Uuiiboat. 4, 17.
Duilliug. 156.
Duroau de la Malic, 325 note.
EboTmayor, Prof. Ernst. S44 noU, 31$
note, 352.
'Efiiyii Wady, 13.
K^-pfian Navy, 4.
Klntli, ruina of, 42.
£l''Akabah and El-Uftuii,
bt'tween, 148-150.
EI-'Anir, 16.
El-ABiiybiili, Grorge, 12.
El-Bada, journey to, 124 et no.
El-Dabbah, rock, 11.
El-Uaurd, cruise to, 108 «f teq.
INDEX.
437
El-Hij&z,4. 445.
Kl-Humsyrah, cliff wall, 28.
£1-Humayzah, 47.
£1-Jahd, 16.
El-Kabu-.46.
El-Kubbah Mines, 122.
EI-Madaini. 44.
El-MakU, 19.
EUMazhafab. 30, 43.
El-Mfirmah ruin, 85.
El-Muh&sir Basin, 10.
El-Muwaylah, 45, 48, 49.
, Fort, 4. 5, 6.
-, return to, vid Zib&, 79
et$eq.
-, work in and around, 49-
56.
El-Nukrah, Baain, 21.
El-Rijm, caravan station, 26; expedi-
tion to, 27.
El-Suwayr, 20.
El-Tfh, plains of; 44.
El-Wijh, cruise to, 99,
, Port, 107. 108.
El-Z&nah, 20.
El-Zebayyib ruins, 93.
Encampiug-grounds on the Tal — Cho'-
tia'li Route, Table showing Supplies
favourable at, 211.
Engroneland, 409.
Eric the Pommeran, 403.
Fahis&t Rock. 49.
Fallmerayer, J. P., 326 note.
Fautrat, M.. 352, 353.
Fssroe Islands, the (tee Zeno's 'Fris-
landa,' &c.).
Ferdinand or Naples, IGO.
Fisclier, Theobald, .326 noU, 354 note.
Fiumara Simakh, 12.
Fort El 'Akabah, 42.
Fraas, C , 326 note.
— — , Oscar, 326 note.
Frislanda (see Zone's ' Frislanda,' &c.).
Froude, Mr. J. A., 332.
Fruit on the Tal— Oho'tia'li Route, 209.
Fuel on the Tal— Oho'tia'li Route, 209
and note.
Furayj, Shaykh, 49.
Gflltoa, Mr., 386.
Gamble, Mr., 338 note.
Oame and Wild Animals on the Tal —
Oho'tia'li Route, 209.
Gariboldi, Counts, 153.
Gamier, Lieut, 421-423, 433.
Gamer, Mr. Robert, 337.
Gascony, Landes of, 332, 340-2 and
noU Ml.
Gazarband Pass, 201.
Qeyer, Uerr Ph., 344 note.
Ghabbat Hnmayzah, 47.
Ghazgai Valley, 248.
, dwellings in the, 221.
, road through, 198.
Ghubbat el-Wagab, 53.
Ghabbat Suwayhil, 53.
Ghwazh River. 198.
Glacis on the Tal— Oho'tiali Route, 230.
Girolamo S., Convent o^ 172.
Gmelin, 366.
Gold mines of 8. Midian, march to the,
115 et aeq.
Gh>lius, 45.
Grad8<!ski-ra't headland, 170.
Graduia, the, 171, 172.
Graetz, Dr., 48, 49.
Grandeau, M., 353, 355.
Gray, Dr. J. E., 385.
Gray, Prof. Wellington, 344 note, 349.
" Greben " Islet, 175.
Greenland, 409 et $eq.
Griesbach, 327 note, 374.
Guillemin, M., 14.
Gulista'n Ka're'z, roads to, from Quctta,
201.
Gurchanis, 255.
Gurkbai Defile, 200, 240.
River, 205, 207.
Gwa'ja Pass, 201.
Gwa'l, 239.
to Ukhmughdai Pass and A'ma-
du'n, 200, 239-41.
Vallev, 240.
, population of the, 220.
Haddan, Mr. J. L., 10.
Hagoul Bay, 46.
Haji Wall, 5.
Hajj Road, the, 17.
Hamrfi el-Tuwayl, the, 80.
Hanisch, M. Richard, 181, 182.
Hankai Valley, 253.
Hanokai Pass, 199. 207. 210.
River, 199. 252.
Han Pass, 190, 207, 209. 210, 253.
, Route to, from the Hanum-
ba'r Pass, 198.
River, 199, 205.
Hanumba'r Pass, 198, 210, 250.
and Han Passes, Oouttry
between, 210.
- Pass, road vi&, from the Bo'rai
VaUey to Tal, 204.
to Trikh Kurara Pass,
Villages, &c., on the road, 250.
River, 198, 248.
Harb, Mountain, 62, 63.
Hartig, Herr, .S49 note, 351 note.
Hartmann, Prof. Robert, 378, 381.
Hasan ibn Sali'm el-'Ukbi, 5.
Hasted, Mr., 336 note.
438
INDEX.
Hehti, Hcrr Victor, 821 vote, 826 note,
BS9 el teq.
Hellrie^l. Heir, 349 note,
llerodataa, 380.
Hill. Col. Sftle, 190.
Hknuv, in tbc, 5G, G5 tt teq. ; Wallin'fl
at-couiit, Gd.
Hooki-r, Sir Joaoph, 374.
Ilusle, Captain, 175.
Houghton. Rcv.'William. 3G2, 365. 367.
Ho worth, Mr., 371.
Huleika, 16.
Humboldt, 398.
Huwuyti triboB, Uio, 72.
llaxk-y, Profcsaor, 357-
Iccknd, 415,419, 420.
-, Comnierce with, lO-l.
Frail. 403.
•, Hustilities of the Eaglisb,401,
406.
, Eesemblnnoe of FrLblanda to
Iceland, 406.
Wrecks, 405.
Ilafe laknd. 403, 409.
Itafe. lalaud of, 418.
Irminger, AdminU, 398-412, 413, 414,
417. 4iy. 4i;0.
I'saf Kach, 207. 211, 242.
to Ispira Rdgha, 242.
l'ahtt'ni'8, 255.
Ispira Ru'gha, 200, 209, 243.
' to Khwa'ra, 244.
■■ — -, Tmck from, probably
leading to A'lnadu'n, 202.
Ion (see Lissa).
Jarai River, 19S.
Jebei 'Ariif. 48
' cl-Ab)'uz, the, II, 12 ; mineralfl
found at, 13, 14, 15.
, Camol-roadfl to, 9.
el-Fahj'Bit, 29, 3S.
el-Fayruz,"'turquoi*ehill,''18,8.'>.
el-Fari, or Mortlicra Turquoise
hill, 18, 50. 51.
i-l-Ghdl. 86.
el-Kibnt. or njlrhar bill, 82, 33,
51, 52, 53, 54.
^— el-Lauz, 1 9.
el-Mazbafi'h, 47.
el-Mureytbah,- 70.
el-R>sh, 49.
• el-Sa'deli, 37.
— - €l-Batrghi, 36.
— - el-Bhiiraf," 42.
Hoosdiii, 110.
Libii, 104.
Mulfli, 93.
Muniali, 19.
Jobd Mu'siL, 44.
Mntadin, 80.
Nii'nuin, 101.
' Rdzi, The ; sandatono-liilla, 8.
—— — Serbiil, 44.
— — Shiirr, 88 : rnutea along and
around, 91 ei t<^i. : vegctatioo, 0
Suik, 30.
Ttturdn, 19.
— Tayyib Ism, 30.
-■ Uniub, tlie, 11.
Zahd, 19.
Jehan. Shati, 203.
Jesuit Surveyors, Map of
Cliinn. 421.433.
Juzi'rnt Fara'un, 41.
Jibal d-&ifliab. 133, 134.
cl-Shafoh, tli^ 16.
el-J<liaTK or Mount Peir, 43.
— el-Tf biimah. The, 16.
Joly, M., 362.
Kabulia. 208 mt''.
Kttcli, 198.
-, ruule via, from Slio'r V'aller I
Zho'b Vallev, 203.
Kiver, 198, 204.
Kaohi Desert, 207.
Kadanei Valky : taokd in, Idh.
Kaemprer, Ilcrr. 333 ribfe, 377,
882, and nolv.
KAban River, 199.
Kaloiriiitiiii, 217.
Kulu Abdullak Khan, 207 note,
, Rend from,
Khilsbdil Kbtin, 196.
-, Table
tancea from, 231,
of
from, 199.
-, Table of
-. to Bndwitii,
KiiUc el-Nokhlah, tbc, 20.
Ku'rc'sca in the Pi^hin. Bhor and '.
VallcvH, 206 and tiote.
Keeno, Major, 190.
Kerr, Lord Mark, 346 note.
Khankai, 248.
Kbediviul Expedition. Ttioentries of
the Becond, hj It F. Burton, 1 «t»eq. ;
Bynopsia of atationd and datea, 88.
Khe'tra'ns, 254.
Kbojak Pa&8, 201, 225.
River, 196, 204, 210. 212. SU
232.
Khuraytot el-ZibA, 69.
Kbu'sb-dil Kha'n, 212, 216. 235.
, Road from, to
Valley. 201.
Abdullah Kba'n, 196.
— , to .Sharan Ka're'z, '.
Routf a to, from
Kizbdaifl, the, 222
Koch, Profeaaor, 334 and twU, 3H mif,
ZiSandnoU.
Koha'i PiiM, 203.
Ku'Ia, or Artidcial Watercoanes in the
llitualayan Districts uid Afghanis-
tan, 205 and note.
Eumybab Range, tbp, 24.
KnUa. Rivor, 198, 205, 206.
— — Valley, 252.
Lacaze» M., Artist, 4, 9, 90.
Ijft'ki' Eiver, 198.
Liio-wik torrent, 422.
Laurent, M., 333 note.
Lavorgiio, M. de, 339.
Lawes, Mr., 349 note.
Lt-dovo Island, 409,
Lenoriuunt, 370 Ttote.
Lcp.siu.t'B Egjptian ' DcDknuUer,' 333.
Leaiiia island, 154, 161-
Leiikt: Kucie, 113.
Liburniiu, Dr. vou, 344 note.
Lille Dimon, 418.
LinuktT, Mr. H., 338 nott.
Linne^ Nicolaiu de, 403.
" Lip Mountains," the, 39.
Lusft, 151 elteq.
owl Pelugoisa, a Vigit to, by
K. F. Burton, t.il et teq.
Ancicut Capital, 159; Legends,
Lo'ra StrLtiin, 204.
Lo'rai River, 198.
Lo'ralai Rivor. 198, 205. 206, 207,
250.
Lubbock, Sir .lohn, 345.
Liiga'n Ba'rkhH'n. 190, 191, 199.
255.
, Boad froni, to Cho'-
tiftlj, 204.
Lu 'ndia'n Volley, 254,
Ln'nds, 255.
Lu'ni Valley, 211.
Ma'»zah Bedawin, the, 62. 63, C«.
MiiL'kcnzic, Mujor F. J. N., RuuU's of,
in Asiii and Afghauislau, idtiitiflKl
with Lieut. Ti'inple'a Map uf ihu
Tal— Cbo'tift'li Route, 287-319.
Madianm, ruins. 22.
Mughair Sbu'ayb, 17, 21, 22, 23.
Magbrabf pilgiirus, 20.
Magriih tl-Wiigbir, the, 79.
Mabmud Wa'li sprtnr^, 20.'t.
Major, Mr. R. H., 398, 409, 410,
, quotutious fronj, 399, 401,
402, 409, 410; Hnswur to Admiral
Irminger, 412 el tai.
-, Zeno's Frislanda is not Icc-
InQd, bnt the Ftofoca : an Answer to
Admiral Irmingcr, 412 ct teq.
Mukna, 20.
to 'Ayniinab, 49, 50.
, route to from lHaghflirSliTi'ayb,
23-28: expeditions from, 28-31.
Vnlkv. 27.
160.
—^ Buildings, 164 ; Collections from
old Issa, 165 ; Ouuarium, 166 ; Ceme-
tery, 166, 167.
Cofttume of peasants, 168.
~ Fisbing, 163 ; Local QuaireU,
164; Harbuur, 151; Forts. 152; de-
serted condition, 152 : aspect and
division of city, 153; Topography
and Annalti of Island, 154 ; Immi-
grants to, 156 : Blockorle, 156 ; no-
ticed by classical poets and geo-
graphers, 157, 158; occupied by the
Bosniao Klavs, 159; Incursions into,
159; occupied by the Englisli, 161;
Trade, 161 ; Gmpea and vine-grow-
ing, 162, 163; walks atoimd, 167 to
174.
Livc-Stock and Animal Products on
tJie Tal— Cbo'titi'li Route, 208.
Loffeiholz-Culbc-rg, Heir tod, 343 and
note.
Mammals, Non-indigenous Domesli-
cdted, 361 tt teq.
Manji't, cultivation of. 208.
Man's Interference, Ktftcls of, with
regard to Trees and Forests, 327 tt
•eg.
, Domestic Animals
and Ctiltivated Plants, 356 el k<i,
"Manualu del Regno di Dalmuzia."
135.
Manufactorica, effect of, on vegeUilion,
337 ft teq.
t&ix Pass, 190, 204.
Marai River, 198, 205, 250.
Mardunali Island, 109,
Marie, M. George, engineer, 4, 14, 15,
23, 35, ■IS. S5, lOtii.
Murkhatn, Mr. Ckments, 398.
Marri Cotintry, rnnds into, 202.
MarsH el-HujQHyznli. 46.
Manti Kbuniybeh, the, 10.
Marsh, Mr. G. P., 321, 324 noU, 343,
343 no(e, 344 note, 345.
l^Iarlius, 333 nute, 375 iio<«, 37S aiKl
note. 379, 381.
Marwali, gold mine. 11.
440
INDEX.
Miirwiit and the Wady liamz, rood to,
129, et ««y.
Maschek, 8ignor Lnigi, 155.
Mftthieti, M.; 352, 353.
Mazhaftilit or Jebel Sawpkherl, 19.
Miizhwn, Mromt, '209. 210, 229.
McKiilop, A dmual, 53.
Meditominenn, pLoflphorescenoe of the,
321, 321 note.
, flail in tlie, 323.
■ whales, 322 et ieq. ami
note.
Modlioott and Feiittinantel, Messrs.,
Beport of, on geolo^icti] epcninaens
found on tho Tal — Cliotift'li lloute,
230.
Mehtarzai tuulc- into tho Sbor Volley,
via Mt. ^argbvand. 202.
Mmizies, Mr. Wni., .'145, 346 nnt^.
MiddondorfT, 322, 3(53, 366, 370 note,
38C.
Midian, ooniit of, 35.
, extent of land of, 2, 8.
, marcli through Ensteni or
Central, 49 et eeq.
nipmnir explaining now map
of, by R. F. Burton, I et »eq.
, Norlli, chBracferislica of, 90.
-, South, vi^it to, 99 el Beq.
Wiliioni, Messer Marco, 17G.
Milne, Mr. J., 42.
M'inat el-'Ay linat, 21.
el-Dahab port, 35, 3C.
tJinai dock, 36.
Hamdiin, the, 52.
MintTftls obser\'pd at tlie Wliito Moun-
tain, &c., 13, 14, 15, 10.
Mino.i, 358.
"Monto Mum," 155, ICJS.
Mitthi' Klin'i'n, 206, 254.
to Luga'ri' Bu'rl^lia'n,
2.54.
Molinninied. 45.
Molinniniii'l bin Jtid cl-'Alawi, 42, 43.
Molianinii'il FHrahat, Sub-Lieutenant, 4.
Monaco, ihlnitd o1', 415.
Mmile GarKcino, 154.
MoMloy. Mr.. 3i'4.
M.iunt Stir, 43.
Mount Sinai, 43.
, notes on tho true, 48,
49.
Muirhead. 3Ir. J. P., 331.
Murubili Rang**, the, 24.
MuBuybat Sliarniii. the, 9.
Musprntt, Mr., 338 note.
Muzarai Streniu, 19ti, 204.
Muza'ri'B, 255.
. Mozavni tribe, li8.
' Myarui Spring, 205, 206.
VaUey, 198.
Nachtigal, H. rr, .378.
Na-erh-pa village, 422.
NaDgaln'oa paaa, 197.
Narentan piiatea, the, 159.
NaasAr Aluned, Lieut,, 116.
Niebnhr, 45,
Niltaon, 380.
Ninga'nd, 211,247.
, Tvuda frnra. to ttburali, 203.
, road frnui, tn Sinza'wui, 203.
, to Waria'gai, 247.
No'a Ba'za'r, 201.
• , roa<b from, to Gwa1, 201.^
, to Lu'r An-
ga'np. 201.
Na'man I.'iland, 101.
Nuttall, Brigodier-Oencral, 191.
Nuwaybi', Kortbera and Soulhvru, S7J
39.
rVbushtliai, 200.
Orelii, 370 w>t,:
Orpinic Natiiri', I'mfcgwir f3«org« RoU
b'ston on tbu Mo<IiflcntionB of tbo'i
External AspeolB of. produced bjrj
Mnn'd Interference. 320 et $eq.
Ottoman raid, the. ICO.
Ovit eyoIoeertM, 209 noti'.
PaliBRy, Benuird, 313 ncle.
Pa'Ikai Pass, 201.20(5.
Pallas, 359 tw/r, 366 and note.
Pathaus, 254.
, lonjtuage spokon by the, 218»^
Pc'lugosa, 174 et trq.
■ , derivation of name, 177, 178.
, liorly liistory, 179; foauda-
tiona, 180: the- liphtbousc, 181.
, niitnml lii«ton', 182-I8}<.
-.Little. 188-190.- hurround-
ings, 18S : geology and botany, 189.
Voyago to, 174.
Pelnsgi, Oilony of, 150.
Ft'Bciiel, <)8t:ar, 325 twif.
Ptitra, 42.
I'faflf, Prof., 349 »*V^, 351 note,
Philip of Mawdon. 157.
Philipin, Mr. Smith, 4. 13, 15, 17, 4dJ
55, 90. 10'.>.
Picti-t, M. 362.
Pinkerton, John, 412.
Pish in and Dof Valley*, syiteni of]
govetnnK-nt iti, 21G.
— — , Dof and Owai Valleya, Dwtl-
lings in Iho, 220.
Lo'ro Strfiini, 196, 201.
Vallpy, 208, 209, 210. 212.
-, ]iermanent atreuma in th4
204.
-, population of the. 220.
-, eupplic« in the, 207.
INDEX.
441
Pishin Valley, tank in, 205.
and Bo'rai Valley, Inha-
bitanta of oountry between, 213.
Flaoe-names oooorring in sketoh map
of the marah of the Tal— Gho'tia'U
Field Force; comparatiTe table of
spiling of. Appendix C, 257-286.
Fla^n spring, 205.
Plants, non-indigenona, coltiTated, 871
etseq.
Pliny, 158.
Pomo Eock, the, 171.
Pomponius Mela, 158.
Porte Grada^ 170.
Porto di San Giorgio di Liaea, 151,
155.
Prestwich, Prof., 349 noU,
Ptolemy, 158.
Pushto language, 218.
Putt, 249 note.
Quetta, Piahin and Candaha'r routes,
201 et seq.
-, roads from, to Gulista'n K^'z,
201.
201.
-, road from, to BLhu'shdil Eha'n,
, to Zho^ Valley, via
Owal Valley, 202,
Badde, Herr, 369 note.
Bain&ll and Wet Seasons on Tal— Cho'-
tiali route, 207.
Has el-Ramlah. 39.
Raa el-Tabehah, 40.
Bas Jiy&l, 18.
Eurkumah, 110.
— Kuaayr, 36.
— Wady Tiryam, head of the Tiryam
Valley, 6.
Bitiyah Wady, pyramids of sand in, 17.
Bawlinson, Mx. Bobert, Bemarka on
climate, 320.
, Profesaor, 333 note, 377
note.
Bedua, EUa^, 371.
Reikholt. 411.
Beikiadal, 411.
Bitter, 377.
Boberta, Dr.. 387.
Bo'd Biver, 197, 200, 205.
, gorge of the, 243.
, dwellings in the gorges of
the, 221.
■ Gorge, supplies in the, 207.
Bogha'ni Pass, 201, and note.
BoUeston, Professor George, Lecture
by, on the Modifications of the Ex-
ternal Aspects of Organic Nature
produced by Man's Interference, 320
et$eq.
Boss, Col. W. A., 18.
Bowell, Mr. G. A., 354.
Sabil Bange, the, 24.
Sachs, Herr, 34S. 353.
Sadr Valley, the, 62.
Sagar Biver, 200, 207.
Sagarband Paas, 240.
Sahhiiah Mountain, 63.
S'ai'd the Brave, palace ot, 136.
8. Cipriano, 153.
St. miaire, I. G., 325 note, 365.
Salfmat clan, the, 17.
Sandeman, Major, 190, 203, 204.
Sandde Island, 400.
Sanestal to Bondendon, 400, 401.
Sarkai Zangal, 198.
, route via from Sho'r
Valley to Zho^ Valley, 203.
Sath el-Nakb, the, 64.
Sayad Pishin villages, 233-4.
Sayads, the, 217, 255.
Sayh Wady el-Jimm, the, 58.
Sayl el-Nagwah, 60.
Sayl Wady Nakhlah, the, 16.
Sclater, Dr., 370 note.
Sooglio Brusnik, the, 176.
Scoglio Bavmk, the, 176.
Sorlbonianua, M. Furiua Camillas,
157.
Scylax Caryondensis, 157.
Soymnus Chius, 158.
Sea, Man's action upon the InhaUtanta
of the, 321 etaeq.
Seokendorff, Dr. A. von, 844 note.
Seemann, Dr., 376 note.
S^gai, 201.
Senaferu, 41.
Sermesok Island, 410.
Selim Khan el-F^ih, Saltan. 3. 42.
Sha'ab Hurub, 19.
Shadi'zai, 201.
Sha&h Bange, the, 61.
Shaghab and Shnwak, to the ruins o^
69.
Shaghab ruins, 78, 79.
Sharan, 207 noU, 208, 209, 249.
to Hanumba'r Pass, 249.
Ka're'z, 237.
, to Balozai Ka're'z, Vil-
lages, &c. on the road, 287.
', road from, to the Dof
VaUey, 202.
Biver, 197.
Sharm Y&h&rr, the, 58, 55.
ShamUl Camp, 17-
Sharma, Wady, Valley-mouth, and
Date-grove, Ac, 8, 9, 15, 16.
Sharr Mountain, ascent of the, 88
et seq.
List of stations on march round, 98.
442
INDEX.
8liaw, Mr. Buswlt, 10.
Shiiykli Abdullah, Tomb of, 6.
filmykh Bakir. 43.
Sliaylih Furavj, guide, 15,
Siio'r Vulloy,'l97, lt>8 and noit. 210.
— , dwellings in the, 221.
' , routes from, to Zbo'b
Valley. 203.
, 8Uj)j>]it'a in, 208.
-, wattr-supply ia, 206 ;
wood in, 210.
Shutifind, 206.
Shuw^, 75. 76; roads from Bhuwiik to
Dumah, 77-
8iBb River, 198, 205, 250.
Siliin River, I'JS. 205, 207, 250.
Simiikh, Wady, 11, 14.
HimoD, Mr. Jnim. S46.
tHituiflr Isliiud, 48.
Siuolair, Ikurv, Enrl of the Orkneys,
413, 414.
SJtid Forest, 351.
Smith, Dr. Aii;^i!<. 346 note.
, Col. HumilUiu, 368 mtd note.
, Mr. Pliil]|., asi.
Smyth, Adiiiinil, :'t72.
Sttorru Sturkson, 411.
Spalato, Ikfuiiuuiii (if, 165.
Spencer, BIr. Herbert, 3S4 note.
BtecDbtrup, Mr. 410.
Stoue, UciicrmI, 7.
Btraba, 158.
Sii^how, 421, 422.
Biidero gulf, 416.
Siiikiiri-tiiiak rock, 410.
Nulayuuin 111., Wultan, IfiO.
.SuJiiuan Ran^'t: mid the ludus, sandy
wiijilOB butwufii, 207.
Sullivan l-xlward, b3>i rinli'.
fciulplnir Hill, thf. 49. 54.
, SI piuheni, 108.
Snlyman Khan, SuHwn, 1.
tjapplies ou the Tal — Lliu'tinii Route,
207 el Kni-
Snpplies proi'undde tit. fucamping
grouudson the Tul — L'ho'tia'li Uoiite,
211.
Sural Pas.^. 197, 210.
Kivcr. I!t7.
Siugiiwand, Ml.. 203. 220.
Surkha'b Bivtr, 197, 204.
Sya'jgai, Mt., 229.
Tabebah Poiut. 41.
Takulu', Mt.. 22y.
Tula't Mfijni liuways, the, 70.
Tnl, 190.
— and Cho'tirt'li, Lest trade routes vi4,
228.
Tnl— Cho'tio'li Field Force, au Accoaot
of the Cmititry travened by the
Second Column of the, in tb« Spring
of 1879, by LiouU B, C. Templo,,
190 tt teq.
Tal — Cho'tialt Field Force, ident
lication of old routes with thoat!
found on Lieut. Teraple*.-! nuip, 287.
, oxcar«innt
of the second column of the, 238,
:^39, 245,
-. Itiaenkfj of
second column of the, 231.
Table of
barometric and thennometric raad-
inga and renaurka on weather during
the nmreh, 256. ]
Tal— Cho'tiu'li Route, 19<> et teq.
, ndmntages and
diiiadvantagefi of the, 226.
■ — — — , Appendix A, 231.
-, artificial means of
procuring water on the, 206.
--, climate and elo> i
valiona on the, 224 et Kq.
-, compaiiaon of,^
with the Bola'u Paiuj Route, 227.
-, crops and food*
grains on the, 207.
— • , cullivatiion and
iriigution on the, 22.%
-, distances irlth-
out supplies on the, 211.
— , fighting? power
of the Afghan and Belo'ch tribes on
the, 224.
, fruit on, 209.
, fuel ou the, 200
ami note.
aDLUiulH on the, 209.
-, gome and wild
errors as to tltc, 228.
gcogrnpbical
-, geological for*
matiuhii cm tlie. 230.
-, granaries, food-
Htores and mills on the, 223.
hi»<t«ric«I n».
inainji on the, 219.
-, identification of
old routes witli LieuL lV-niule'«
map of the, 287-319.
-, inhabitautf met
with wi tin.; 212.
231 ei Kq.
-, ilinpjnry of ■
-. knits or artif
cial watercourses ou the, SU5 a«i
note,
Iive-«tock and
aniinnl pnxlucts on the. 208.
numbera and
populntiou ou the, 220-
ISDEX.
443
Tal— Cho'tia'U Boute, springs along
the. 205.
^, supplies on the,
207 etseq.
seasons ou the, 207.
-, raioGiU and wet
J.
-, Table or Afghan
and Belo'ch Tribes found on the, 215
et$eq.
-, Table of alti-
tudes of encampments on the, 225.
-, of mouutaios on
the, 229, 230.
225.
-, of passes on the,
-, Table showing
supplies procurable at encamping-
grounds on the, 211.
-, trees and o\'er-
growtbs on the, 210.
— , waterless tracts
on the, 206
-, water supply
and rivers on the, 204 et $eq.
-, wells and ka'-
re'zes on the, 205.
Tal— Chotia'li, i>lace-names, spelling
of, adopted by Lieut. Temple, 193 ;
explorers' carelessness as to, 192;
Belo'ch and Pathan systems of, 191,
192; table of sounds occurring in,
193 et »eq.; comparative table of
Hunterian and Phonetic spelling of,
Apnendix D, 257.
Tali Fu, 422, 423.
Tamrat Faroj, the, 91.
Tarakai Yallev, the, 201.
Tayyib Ism, 19.
—— Mountain, 42.
Temple, Lieut. B. C, an Account of
the Country traversed by the Second
Column of the Tal— Cho'tiali Field
Force in the Spring of 1879, by, 190
et $eq.
T*«ng-yaeb, 422.
Teuta, Queen, 168, 169.
" Tihimat Madyan," 44.
Tiria Island, 20, 48.
Tiryam, ruins of, 6 ; pottery, 7.
Toba Country, 202.
Toghai Stream, 196, 204.
Topieh, M. Antonio, 163, 167, 181,
182.
Tor Khnize Pass, 203.
Biver, 198.
Trees and forests, udects of, on climate,
345 et seq.
and overgrowths on the Tal —
Oho'tia'Ii Boute, 210.
-, non-indigenous, man's action
Trees, shrubs, and plants foand iu the
wadys, 24, 25, 26.
Trikh Kurom Pass, 200, 210, 251.
to T8smaulang,251.
, springs in the, 205,
206, 207.
Trin. Capo de, 409.
TsaOun, wells at, 205.
Tsamaulang, 191, 252.
, campiog-groand, 206.
Biver, 198, 205.
to Bala' Dha'kn, 252.
Valley, 191, 210.
, road connecting
the, with Gho'tiali, 204.
Tuhib el-'Usaylah, 20.
Tuwaybah Point, 41.
Tuwuyyil el-Klbift, 141.
Tztt-ta-ti, 422.
Ucbsaha'n Spring, 205.
Ukhmughdoi Pass, roads from, into
the Marri country, 202.
linger, Fr., 325 note, 326, 332 note, 318
and note, 377 note.
Umm Amii, ruins, 82.
el-Hardb Mine, 123.
el-Kartiy&t, 118, 119.
Gaf4CUff,21.
Jedayl Book, 57.
Nfrdn Valley, 18.
Bujaym, 20.
upon, 327, 330.
Urnub Valley, the, 17.
Ush Pass, 197, 210.
VaUlant, M., 349 note.
Valle di Eostrina, 167.
Vallono di Comfsa, 155.
Velo-Sclo, the Great ViUage, 159, 160.
Venice, 159.
VioUet-le-Duc, M., 350.
Vogel, Dr., 851 note, 380 note.
Voltem Brothers, Messrs., 45.
Wadi el-Koz, the, 20.
el-Marfikh. the, 20.
Wady Abi Nakhlah, 30.
'Afdl, the, 21, 51.
Afal, mining establishments near,
23.
'Antar, 104.
'Aiiiiid, 100.
Damah, 72, 77, 80.
Dumayghah, 103.
el-'Arabah, 43.
el-'Argah, 142,
el-Duwaymah, 29.
el-Kharaj, 31, 49.
el-Khulasah, 58.
el-Makadah, 10, 11.
el-Marwat, 130.
444
INDEX.
Wady el-Misri, 42.
el-Mukabbilrth, 41.
el-Mukhassib, 18.
• el-Wijh, 116, 117.
el-YilTii, 43.
Guwnymarak, 57.
Halifali, 29.
Homy., 135. 138-Hl.
Kneiirah, 30.
— Kiiwftjd, 98.
. Laylah, 132.
. Mab'iig. 32.
— — Maknd, 31. 32.
Mbimah, 143.
Mu'uytan, 49.
Muzayrig, 37.
Bhaghab, 78.
Sliuwak, 74. 75.
Sirr. 123-131.
Sukk, 30,
^— Siikkch, 28.
— Suit. 50, 57, 93, D4, 97.
— ■ — • Hiiwayr, 40.
Sabil. the, 23.
Sa*lr. GO, Ot, C2.
Salbixli, 102, 103.
— Salmi, 83.
Tiryam, 60.
Uniayyid, .16.
Riibigh, 125.
\itra, 44.
Zanuiirah, 59.
Zibii. 84.
Zurayb. 117, 121.
Wadys, trovs, sbriibij, and plants found
in the, 24.
Waf^cr. Antlreas, 364 and tvole.
Wallaci-, Mr., 324, 363 >u>r«, 3C6, 382,
38G.
WalUo, Dr., G. A., 4, 45.
Waria'gai, 248.
, roail from, to BagWwo, 203.
to iSharttD, villagei, &c., on
the rood, 248.
■\Vdiiit, eaad-heape, 38.
TiVater, arttitciiil lueanii of pTocuring, ou
thi' Tal— Cho'tia'li Route, 20ti.
Water, want of, at the JeE
12.
Waterless tracts on the Tal^Chy'^
ti.i'li Rimte, 206.
Wl-Ixt, l'rofc'8ai.ir, 155.
\Velliii{;tou Miirti'llo, the. at Lirsa, 15S
WpIIb ami Iva'rv'zeti on tlio Tal — Cho*<j
lia'lj Route, 205.
. Lieut., 1117, 203.
Wellstid, 80, liy. 120.
"While Mountain" under Zannli, 2(s
Wijcg, Ml., 338 note.
Wilkiusiiii. 377.
Wren, Sir Chriatopher, 327,
Yamm Siif; the, 49.
yiitiimn Fu, 422.
Yiisef fl-Fiizi, 5. _
Yusuf Tiiulik, Lieut., 4, 17. 18, 31, '
51, 8G, 87, 109.
Ya'ghista'n, 216 and note.
Zajihlu'n River, 201.
Zahrtuand, AilroiraL, 398.
Zuiic-lla, Apulloitio, 156.
ZapukliniL-it, US, 16a
Zuiio, Niculo and Antonio, 398,
et leq, 406 el aeq.
Zeno'a Frislauda is Iceland and
the Faroes, by Admiral Irmiog
3»8 et eeq. \ answer to, by Mr. R. H.
Major, 412 et «tv/,
Zbawar VBlley, 202.
Zl>o'b Valley, ka'kars in, 213.
, route, 227.
road to, firuin Khu'ab<i
Kha'n, 201.
rondii to, from Qaeti
202.
Ziba, 84, 85.
Zichuini, 3&9, 400, 407, 408, 413, 4X4
4n;.
Zimmernmnn, 3G7 iwt*.
Zocdoij^idl RofiionB, 867 et uq. _
Zvoiiiiuir-DemctriuB, King of Croati«r
159.
BND OF VOL. XLIX.
untooa t rsixTiD st wzuaxx ciown axd cons, umitku, nrxurouu
A»0 CUAUKC CROai.
GEOGRArmOAL JOUBVAL ADYEBTISEB.
COOK'S EXCimSIONS, TOURS,
And GENERAL TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS.
L
THO]\iAs oook: aivo soiv,
Plonrem. liiaiiuunitoM, and I'romotere of the prtnclpal nystniK of Tour* esiablUlied In (Insit ntitain
and IrrUrid. iinil on tlii- C'oiitlrifnl of Kurope, are now givinff Ini-n-nscd nUeiitloa ro OiJliiary rravcllinit
^ rrangi^UirriU, with a view lo r»ndeniin Ihrm «■• i?»~y, prarlluahlc ati'i pcminiiiiral as cimim^incea will
allow. During 39 yt-mn more than kix MiLLiaM* of I'nvellMV taivp vl-.iiMl near and diaiant pUcM nndrr
tbdr arraQ|(oini-iilB ; and tbrlr »y«leui o( TickcU DQW pr«/Tlde4 Ivr visiting lli« chief points of tutereel in
tlie Koiir ^iianorn of ihe Glot>«.
Cook'* TXTest of SnKlttnil Tears, combining IlaUnrar, Coack, and Stoanirr )o evrrr
roilnt of intoreat IwcuecD bruuil and iitv Lon •'■ Knd. Hulel Cuapoua are also iiaueil t-tl rirat-Cian
Ho«cL< In ilio I'Utnct.
SngUsh X>ake Slstrlet.— New arrugemenla have been made for Tmn to all pmti »f
intfrnt In tbe EniriUh I. ik<> liMnct.
Cook's Scotch Tonrs cover all poiota of Tonriit Inureat In Scotland, and can be usod Id a
dnllar iiiiijiii r t» iIk- Jrl>l) I nuns.
Cook'a Xrlsb Toar«.— '''ntiriat Tickata to and tbrongh all part* of livland. Tbef eaa br
VKd ill oonncctlcm wltd Ticketii frnm Ixind-a, or any town on tiie Midland Railway.
Cook's Tickets to Paris ar« araMabl« by Ibe .Sborteat and Cheapeal Roatea, and by Dover
and L'ulHb,
Cook'a Tours to Holland, BelKlam, and tb« Xblne *Tf aTanRrd apoa a m><«t
compnrben'ive b'sis lur nn>;le aud return jouruvys, and lur Lircuuir iuurs. Brraluuf Juaruey areaUownl
at :ill p'.air» of hit' n-st.
Cook's S^xrlss Tickets are avalfab|i> by rrery IU>at#, and covrr every part of tbe country.
Thomas Cook 4l Bon nre (be only Aalbortw'd Ait<iit>» of every Swlaa lUIUay, iileaiilbciat, auil
liili»:i lur ("oniiMuy. I.vrrr Alplni" Koute la Included In tlieir amngFiDei.ta.
Cook's Ztallan Tickets provide for «very Koute lu and tbrougb Italy, and aiti offered at a
great KviliictKm Id I'arv*.
Vorway, Sweden, and Benmark.— Touriit Ticketa by all prlni-lpil lUltwayi and
Bleanipni lor lue luo^c uiieri<9tiD(j: paita ol ncniuliiuvia.
Algerian Tours. -Ticket! by any Ruut>- ooer the Al^iTfiaa Railway! and l)lli||vnc<-«.
Toxkey, Cyprus, Greece, the Xievant, Ac— Tiekeu hy any iin>! of .sii-amera, tu
any purl louctird by tiic Austrl<in l.,luy<;'g, Mi^«>agtTi«s Marltiaiea, KubaiUiHi. Kaplan, Khedtvle >lail,
Aud otijer CdUipjiny'." ■^f atn-m.
Tours- to Palestine are rrmlercd eaay, »afe, and foooomlial by t'l*" anpcrlor arrangenimt* of
Thomas Cook dt Son, nb > have tbrlr own Kraident Manat^or In Bi>vt<jui and J -fla. I'bey are
t'K-rrlurc prepan'd t'> c<jfiduct large or small parties hi tbr muatoutnloruible ntiiiin'-r tliruii|th tb« country :
to JcrtiMl<-m tbe I>ud .Sea. liie Jordan. DamaMrua. Slnal, kc. Tb' parltn< lan be so likcd a» tu go
liidpp<'ridriiily nr iiniler |<erMnal inauageiDeiit any time bei*eFii Oitober inJ A|<rtl.
The Steam Mairlgatlon of the Sf lie is oamiulited by ibr iCbedlve Govemmeul eotirely
loThotnae Cook dk Son.
Zadta, China, dkC— Thomas Cook A Son ar^ tbe Airenltof the principal Siramablp
Oompaul'* >jt ilic world, and are pri<f«rod lo Ihiuc Tickfia from Suutbaoipton, Venice. A ncona, Ueuoa,
Na|tle4. and Itrindl-I, tu Alexandria, Aden, Bombay, Cialciitta, 8lugipore, ituug Kong, t>Iiaijgbai, ur akjr
uUjcr point In rivlia or Clilna.
Australasian Tours.— Messrs. Thos. Cook 4l Bon, iiniler rpi-clal contractu with
the <^k)'onial iji>v>iniu>-ni IUll*-ay Ad:uiiiijlrdt>on, la«a« I'luacle uvi-r uti ibc tUilwaja la Ausualla aad
N«w i&ealand, a: icrruily riilueed KarfH.
Tours to and Through Amerloa.— TWessrs. Thoa. Cook A. Bon have thrlr
ownaystemof T us ili Anitrl. a ctiveriiigBa |.Hjitit« of ljit'ri>l betttniiti.e AtUntL uiid the r.kiHncOc«an«.
Passages to America and Canada are Mco'-ed l>y Thomas Cook A Son for
ali the c li'f 11 ic» ul Btcuncis. Tours tlirou|;Li Aiuertca, giving a choice uf inuiK tbaii 'iOU Single and
Tuurlat IilUc'*.
Kound the ^SITorld.— Thomas Cook di Son ar# prepare] to lame a direct TravelUag
Ticket fur a Journi'y lionud tbe World liy ci.eaai. available to ho either Wri.t of tLaat.
Cook's Hotel Conpons. avnllablp at ovrr i>lx hundred Flml-Claa« IIoteK guaranteeing,
flnf.cliu!i iX.'cuaiitwxl^it on at lixM mid ri'KiiUr (itUp^. . .
Thomas Cook 4k Bon's Oeneral Travelling Arrangements are m «Mr1f
extended tint they tan pupply llckeit lo elmunt any |>uiiii tbai TniiriMa may wi>ii to vlalt. In muiiy
ca-e* at rwjucliona ranging frotu l«enty-nvi" to fiiriv-fl»« jx-r cent, Iwlow or»litiary lari-*; the rrgular
Travalilnii Tlck't U-iiig laaurd In all caiiea, priutnl In Enitllah au une aide, and in tiie language ul (1j6
cusotry whi^fe It i>i u-c-l on Ihi; oiher ; and it Contaliia all the Infurraation Uie traveller nenln.
Cook's Sxcnrslonlst aad Totarlst Advertiser la pubiiabed at ebon Intcrvatt, at
2d., tiu.'t-lii'i' M., and cuntaliiii Specimen Tuuis, with Vat^b.
TIIOlVIA^es COOIC AI\r> SOIV,
Speeiallif appoin'eil hv n. F.ll. the I'ritve of Walfs, Paiatnijir Ag*7>li lo tKe Roynt Rril'iK f^omm<itwit,
ffanna ls73, I'kil^idelpkia Itln, and Piirit 1H7A ; o/jo Aytnlt by a^ipn irilaurif lu Ike Hrutreii
and ItmtdJiiT/ hxMbitujii Adiuinulraliom, iSM.
Chief Office— Ludg^ate Circus, London, E.C. ;
CHIEF AMERICAN OFFICE— 381. BROADWAY. NEW YOP.K_
CHIEF AUBTRAUA8IAN OFFICE— M^VI TE.XOBXTXCi^. •fcKE.TJ&C.'Vi^.lS*"
HEW ZEALAND AaSNCY-l£E:BSB,&. \3ETQN «. GQ.> KVl^^Si^KB.^-
PROFESSOR TENNANT, F.G.S., &c.
Having been ejis-a^ed as a Practical Mine-
'<^ ".b ■
ralogist and Geologist during upwards of
half a century, is about to retire from the
active business of his professioft, IVith^
this view he takes the libei'ty of inviting
attention to his extensive Collectio?is of
Miiierals and Fossils, which he is now in
a position to offer at greatly reduced pricesi
Tlie Specimens are ar^^anged in Sets,
adapted to the yotcng Amateur as well as
to the more advanced Studejtt ; and it i\
thought that many persons might feel dis-
posed to take adva7itage of the present
opportunity, which is not likely to occur
again, especially with respect to the large
and unique Collections, luhich are equally
well adapted to tlie Gallery of tlu Noble-
man and Gentleman, the Museums of our
Public Schools, or the Colleges of our
Colonies.
140, STEAITD, W.C, kTisviL^lA*^^.
GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL ADVERTISER.
PROFESSOR TENNANT'8 LECTURES on MINERALOGY.
applii'd to GEOLOGY mid the ARTS, nt KitiK's Ci>]legw. Two Omiap* are
;5tven, one on Satunliiy moniiuag from 10-20 to II -SO, «nd tlia other on TliurwJny
eveniugi from 8 to 9. The public are admitted on fmyiug tlit> Ojlle;rt> feea The
Lf-fiurcB KcKia etirly in October, iind tiTiuinitte nt Ewtor. They aw illustratwl by
a Inrge sericM of gptrcimeiis, chiefly from hi? private collection. PcrHfitis unuble to
attend Public Lectures c-an liitvt* I'lieate Juttruclion iit Mitifrahnty awd Ger-Zof/y of
Prufessor Tennawt at liia leaideooe, 149, Sttaod, W.C. Tenua, 7«. for L^hou
of one hour.
(^ EOLOOY, MINERALOGY, AND PALAEONTOLOGY. —Six
J Ercmentary Lt'cturea on onu of these Bubjecis, udnpttKl to a Jiivonile Audieuct*,
will be given by ProfeHsir Tiin?(ant nt his r"Bidence. 145*. Stmnd, W.O., in llio l**fcter,
MidsiiiDiur.^r, and l.'Lrii»tmn# holid-ya, nt 10 a.m. Terms, Half a Guiaea for each
Course, or On« Guine'A for the Three Coursoa.
ELEMENTARY GEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS of Minerals,
Hocks, and Fu«ails.
In the " Studeaf 9 Elements of Geology," by Sir Charles Ltell. price 9*., 1874,
ho Bnys, "' At it !a inip<iBsiblu to enable the render to recog^ui»e n>ckH and niiCierHlg nC
jiight by aid of verhal de8<'ri[)lioD8 or fij;urei«, lie wiH do well to obtain a well-armng'ed
coUeftiun of nfMM'inient, sijcli an maybe prooiirefi from Mr. Tennant (149, Strand),
Tencher of Mineralogy nt King's College, London." These Collections are Bupplled
OD tite following torniB, in ptuiu Maliogauy Cabiuet« : —
100 Small Speoimens. In Cabinet with Thxeo Traya £2 3 0
* 200 Specimens. Itrger. in Cabinet with Five Traye 6 b 0
300 Bp«cljiienB, larger, in Cabinet with Nine Drawers 10 10 0
400 Bpeolmena, larger, In Oablmet with Thirteen Drawers 31 0 0
More eslenBivB Collections, cither to illiutrate Mineraloiry or Geologv, at ."iO lo
5000 l>*uiiiea8 esoh, •with <?veiy r«:-<:|uitiite to aHaist tll0^e commencinj; the atudy of
these iiitereatiuj; branches nf Si-ience. a kuowled);e of which atfnrds tio much ploaiiure
to tiis TraV" Ik-r in all purts of the World, In the more oxpenidve Collectiona somu
of the f petiimena are rare and nil select.
• A Gollootion for Ftvf> Guinca«, to illustrate lii« recent works on Geoln^ by
Anftted, linruiev, lluckUnd. Geikif. Lyell, Mur<'hit<"in. Pajre, PliiDlpi!, and others,
contuiiu 200 Bpecimeua, in a pla n Mithogany Cubiu«t, with iivo trays, coutaining the
following iipoiMmuns, viz. : —
Minerals which arei-ithiT Iho coraponentp of Rock«,or oocauionally imbedded in
Ihwo — Quartz, A^te. Chalwdooy, JiiBper. Garnet, Zoolilo, Ilornblcndo. Ans;ite,
Atbertoa, Felspar, Mioa, Tu1l>. Toiimialine, Spinel. Zjreon. Corundum, Caleito, Flnor,
Belenitci, Baryti, titnmtiii, Salt, Sulphur, Plumbago, bitumen, &c.
Native Metals, or Metalliferous Minerals ; Iheae are tmnd iu miitw^s
or bedii, in voins, and oecaaionidly in the iK^ds of rivers. Speeinu'iis of tlm following;
Hetallio Ores are put m tbo Cabinet; — Irou, Manganese, Lead, 1 in. Zinc, Copper,
Antimony, Silv«r, Gold. Piutina. Mercury, Titimium, Ao.
Socks: Granite. Gneiss, Mica-slate, Clay-alute, Porphyry, Serpentine, Saad-
atoncs, LinifKtrinca, llasitll, Lav&.s, fii'.
Paleeozoic Fossils from the Cambrian, Siluriiin, Devonian, Carbon) feroua, and
I'erniiun Rocks.
Secondary Fossils from the Rhteiic, Lisa, Oolite, Woilden, and Cretaceous
Groups.
Tertiary Fossils from the Plastic Clay, London Clay, Crag, &a.
FOR SALE.— Several Extensive GEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS,
adapted either for a first-duss Kducutional EatiibliMlin)ent» a Provincial or a
Colonial MuMtnin.or private study of a person intcrestetl in Miuerulogy and Geology,
from £100 to fiOUO Guineas.
JAMES TENNAIiTT, Minoralogiat (by Appointment) to Her Majesty
and the Baroness Burdett-Coutts, 149, Strand, LoTudov^-, "^ .C
OEOGRAPIIICAL JOURXAL ADVERTISER.
GARY'S
Travelling Sets of SiirveyiDg Instrumenl
Consisting of Bantuietei a, Compasses, Sextants, Artificial Horizons,
Binocular GIti>BeB, «fec., Jrc., specially mado for tho Royal
GeOORAPUiCAL SscxJiiiTY by
H. P O Tl, T E R,
(Apprentice and Successor to the late W. Gary)
Optioifln fry Special Ajipoiuiment to the Admiralli/, War Ojficg, India Ofiat, Trimly {Ju
Sicmiith, Noriceijian, and other Foreign GortiummtM,
ISl, STiaA-ITX), liOITIDOIsr.
ESTAIM.ISHED OVKft 100 YhAfl''.
QOtD MEDAU
JOSEPH GILLOTT'S
CEl-EBUATEO
Br ALL DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD,
Zverf Pacliet
bean the
/ac-timilr
Signature,
GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL ADVERTISER.
ADDUh'tiS^
BENJAMIN EDGINGTON,
2, DUKE STEEET, LONDON BKIBGE, S.E.
(A*0 OTHER ESTAliLISHMSST.)
FOR TRAVELLING ABROAD, nKNJAin.v Euoi.vaTON'a iMrnuVEo
MILITARY OK Ti;AVELLIN(i TEXT posSfimea losuy advmitH^ea. It obtained
u Piiz« Mfilal at tb« Urwt Kxbibitioiu itncl hua r»ceiv(^| \h.ti higliiMt TeslimoiiiaU
ifiiiu tuariy OrticiTs and G«iitleni<ru wlio imve tborouglily proved ita etticieucy. It u
«^l>nlile y{' rviiittliiig the utrongi'ft windg, f^aily and expt'diiiouBly erected iu auy
WculLer, uud cuq Iju suuu ert-oted kt B. EuuiniiTijn'is e8tablisbtuuu t.
Portable Bedsteads, Bedding, Gamp Stoves, Oanteensi Oookiog Apparttus, &c.
PRICES lOKWARDED ON API'LICATION.
THE EMIGRANT TENT.
ThiD Tent is simpl^.i jn cnnstntction. nioet coimnr»ftinaa ond eronornicul. nnd IvM
lieen liir^ly auld for use on tUe Distiiond aaJ Gobi Fields, l>L<iiv^ ulcutigly niadc aiui
picked ill one Viili*-. tlie pulea, jwg*, und every D'quiidlu iticluded.
An Outer Fly, for aiiditiunal protection from the bent of the sun, can be fitted to
tbe above at ail extra charge.
INDIA RUBBER GROUND SHEETS or CAMP BLANKETS
Of the rerj btut quality, to Boit Hot Climates.
Cloths for Floors of Tents, either of Hair or Waterproof Material.
uooqi iTo vvn niTBD lo -mrrs on bidbteam.
THE TENT CAN BE SEEN ERECTEIi AT "So. "2.,'a\S"KE. ^'^'S:^:^:^,
LONDON BRlDaH, a.^»
10
GEOGRAPHICAL JOURNAL ADVERTISER.
LIEBIG COMPANY'S
EXTRACT of MEAT.
An Invaluable and
Palatable Tonic for
Invalids.
OAUnON.— In con-
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inferior oad bw-priced
N.B.— Genuine ONLY with fac-simile of enbatitotes being in the
Baron Liebig's Signature, in Blue Ink, market (sometimes ac-
acrosB Label. companied by mialeading
chemical analyse s) pfor*
; chasers musl insist oo
♦,• In uae in moat houtcJiolils throufjhottt the being supplied with the
kingdom. CoQipany'ftEitract,«bicii
- for fine flavour and p«Tfect
A* for Lichig OOMPAXY'S E...*.t, .nd „.■ S^\-S»: J^ '^.Tilt
tliat Tio other is suhstitiitctl fur it. riiies to be the best.
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Ti ~F^ T"' T' **-i " ^
COMPLETE ATLAS OF THE WORLD.
See what THE TIMES says about it, February 27th, 1878.
"A ^'I:^r Atlas.— Mesir*. l»t la liAve pubU<h«d »'Coraplet« AtU» of Modern, C'l«.«slc»l, and
Ci^lMtiiil Mapit.' wliich U cunlideiitly |>uc I'urwaril a» the best lu exi'tenn;; and tiid<tsl, (or all
tlie tirafticiii purt>i><«« o1 cuimuIIkIIoh, th« work iw-io» t« tw »uch »» ti> Jtisflfy llil^ recnin.
itii'iidatloii \fMtt i'runt t>vo ln<)<^xr» to tlw ]>riucl|tal |ilac4.-« In Ihr world, clai^lciil diid iii'>rlt-rn
n-fpectlvirly. th<* »tUs ooniiiit* of Jiio n\h\^ mid j»h»te«. nut tl>^ l>-<i*t vahitlik (xirlt'in »l which
mrt- |il»ii(i of thu |iriiici|Ml cIIIpi in thfl world, in in iioinlier, with Ihi^cliiel th'ir<>ii|rhliir<-ii ikiKl
j>nl)llc bulldlriB* («h» latter »<K:tlfni»lly dlKpUyed In uuum lii>ttHnei'«) Uld duwi) with rar«
rxncinfi*. I'lie cliKrac<eri'tlc excellmcfi" of tho work ootwint in llir Judiclini" w-lrelion iif only
import <nt DiUiiei. rncritven In a t^jid and cte«r »ty\e. and tlie oiii^'Kjueiil Hliwfnoe of that
oiufuomi and d'-owdnt avf^^Ttnc*. •'> prevalmit In many a<hi»«, the uurclul r>-ii'tt<rii>^ of
all I h^'ical feature*, and the alt»D(^:)ii girisn l>t the more hn[A)rt<int U(.iuntrltr< of thv world
by larca scale niai)". Kr^ry flTirt has been made lo k"fp tne work np to thn (plrit an<l
Viiowledfre of the t rD««, and evvn rallwaT* will b« foaod to be bruuftlit up s-fry cluttt-lr lo iHa
|irp«rnt year. The nwp of Africa particularly lh<> O'otral part, ha< bt-en n.-vimsl In aouonlmiw
uilh llie ialcxt dl>icitv«riiM; wliile tlw* riiap of Suuihcra AlrtCi I' viriunliy m-w, and cunralnii the
viM-y latf-it additiiiiin ti» our gHigrapldc •! kn"*ledjt* MiWH-'ialty of iU« ir^nxva^l. Tlw Arctia
r»)si<m)i, too. an? hdd down In conloriulty \Hlt\ tl»e awomjilinhin.'ntsof the nio-t r>-cent explufr*.
while the Uoinlnhjn of Canada liiu^ b on iiolijeotvd to a careful rnvijilon in every reiifieut 1'he
iiiup< of Aa«tr4llj and Ne<r South \Val<»< alw} have beeo brovght up to date t.hie feature,
J>i jiartlcnUr. tu which the pubUiliem dealre t» draw altenlUm Ik that iu lature edltiuns each
)iiap. If revled, v ill bear Uie iiata of rath rerlf'iom on thn fai.^e of it. Knglloh o trtuirrapheni tnr
Miiiio reawin ur other liavlnK hiUiert^^i omit ed thin important intlmatioa. A mi-re tutiu. tiorouffi,
tcfW-rTn^u'wi, yrt unpntentioiut colUictian ff hki/m *<u nrver b-en iijfered tn Ike £vglith fivMic, and
Oi» T'Jertn't iror^t of tvp^l littrnrj/ iruti'tatio/i and prieatt library laii ii.iiiccijf bt taid to Ot
tiiinftttt vnLkotU pottetting a copg <•/ it,"
LKTTS, SON, & CO., Limitkd. 33, KING WILLIAM STREET. E.C.,
72, QUEEN VHJTORIA STREET, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS
THE LONDON LIBRARY,
12, ST, JAMES'S SQUARE, S.W.
?3atttm.— H.R.tt. The Phwce or Wales.
/VcfuieM.— Thomas CAiu.rui, Em].
Mfce-Prtti^nli. Trultea.
Thi Rari; or CAaNAttvoK.
Thk KxtL OK RoeuEur.
Tmc n«A!( or VVmtmi^rrk.
TuK Rkiht Hok. W. E. QLAaSKMII, VLP,
^. tt BcMBiiiir. Kaq.
jAxn S>ru>[>iii«. K^.
MU JaMCS ALI>KI)140!(.
bia Hkxht Haski y. K.C.B.
f, VV. BvKrxx, K->n.
Vkx. AKCHII^ArOir CinmiAM.
J. C. Cmnvbrakk, E-q.
W, J. Oucariiora. >*!.
1(. K. r>K(i»r. Kaq.
Kev. E. tl. taToiiVia.
PommitUe.
H W. rxErLAirD, Eiq.
.SrD.MSr liUXiK, KM].
pR>>r«««oa Oi.APsTO!(«,
F, ti iRKIsO', Km
C. M. KaxvEUT, Esq.
Krt, .Stan lev Lkat>i«s. D.IX
W. Watkim Lturih K«q.
It. M. Lrrr, K^-
8r. Onmai Mi%'art, Em|.
J. C. MOUKHI. iCmO.
Ihi. MonK.
Hsv. Mamk PATTiaox.
F. Pollock, t^.),
RlCT. IhL KsYKOLDa.
HRKBKItT SCKM'KR, Kliq.
Tlie Library ooiitiins 90,000 Volmnes of Antdent »nd Modern Liteniture. fn
vnrioua LHU).'ua!;eH. Su»jacii|itioii, £3 a. yMir, or £2, with Entmnca Fee of i.'G;
l^ile Mcuiberphtp, £2>i.
Fiftteu Volumes are u'lowed to Counlry and Ton to Town MemberB.
RMuiiug Hifoma open trom Ten to Ualf-paflt Six o'clock.
CutiJoguc, Fourth IJiliiion, 1875 (1,062 pp.), price I6«. ; to Member^ I2t,
iv.»iK)ft.iM€:* on ..pr-r-niiou. robe:b.t WKSS.XW^'^..
12
arOORAPHICAL .TOrRXAL AUYEnXI^ER.
SUTTOWy o"£ SEEDS
Highest Honours, Paris, 1878.
THE LEGION OF HONOim
Was conferred on our Managing Partner, Mr. M. J. SUTTON,
by the French Oovemment, besides
FIVE PRIZE MEDALS
Awarded by the Jurore.
Sutton's
GRASS
SEEDS
for
all
Soils
and
Climates.
^^SUTTON'S^:'
^ HERMETICALLY CLOSED **
ORNAMENTAL BOXES. ^
Arranged to meet the requirements
of large or small Buyers in all parts
of the world.
Sutton's
Selected
Stocks
of
Home-
grown
FARM
SEEDS.
^
PRICED DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUES GRATIS AND
POST-FREE ON APPLICATION.
SUTTON AND SONS,
Cbe £iuccn*0 ^ccusmcn.
And by Special Wwrnnt to H E.H. THE PBINCE OF WALES,
AEADIHG, LQHaOM^ AND PARIS.
J^
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