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11  ii 


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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


GIFT  OF 


the  xcungcr 


".toy"-"' 


tOWTHOK. 


JOURNEY 

INTO 

ENGLAND. 


B  Y 


PAUL  HENTZNER, 

In  the  Year  M.D.XC.VIII. 


PRINTED  AT  STRAWBERRY-HILL. 

MDCCLVII. 


To  THE  Right  Honourablh 

HUGH, 

Lord  WiLi^ouGHBY  of  Parham; 
PRESIDENT} 

TO       THE 

COUNCIL    AND    FELLOWS 

Of  the  Society  of 

A  N  T  I  Q^U  ARIES, 

This  Edition  and  Translation, 

o  F 

Part  of  the  Itinerary  of 

HENTZNERUS, 

Is  offered  with  great  Refpeft 

by  the  Editor, 

HORACE  WALPOLE,  F.  S.  A.  and  F.  R.  S. 


Ji 


Advertifement- 


DOdor  Birch,  in  his  fum- 
mary  of  Sir  Thomas 
Edmondes's  State-papers,  has 
publifhed  a  fhort  extrad  from 
the  following  obfolete  Author, 
which,  for  the  elegance  of  the 
Latin,  and  the  remarkable  de- 
fcription  of  queen  EHzabeth, 
has  been  defervedly  admired: 
Her  beft  portraits  fcarcely  exhi- 
bit a  more  lively  image. 

The 


The  original  work,  of  which 
perhaps  there  are  not  above 
four,  or  five  copies  in  England, 
is  an  itinerary  through  Ger- 
many, England,  France,  and 
Italy,  performed  by  Hentzner, 
a  travelling  tutor  to  a  young 
German  nobleman.  That  Dr. 
Birch  has  extracted  the  moft 
interefting  paffage  in  the  whole 
book,  is  certain  :  Yet  it  re-r 
cords  fome  circumftances  and 
cuRoms,  not  unworthy  the 
notice  of  an  Englifh  Antiqua- 
rian, and  which  are  mentioned 

no 


[  iii  ] 

no  where  elle.  For  thefe  rea- 
fons,  I  flatter  myfelf,  that  a 
pubHcation  of  the  part  relating 
to  our  own  country,  might  not 
be  an  unacceptable  prefent  to 
perfons  of  curioiity.  The 
tranflation,  was  the  produdion 
of  the  idle  hours  of  another 
Gentleman. 

The  Author  feems  to  have 
had  that  laborious,  and  indif- 
criminate  paflion  for  seeing^ 
which  is  remarked  in  his  coun- 
trymen ;  and  as  his  Tranflator 
obferved,  enjoyed  as  much  the 

doubtful 


[iv] 

doubtful  head,  of  a  more 
doubtful  faint  in  pickle,  as  any 
upon  the  Ihoulders  of  the  beft 
Grecian  ftatue.  Fortunately 
fo  memorable  a  perfonage  as 
queen  Elizabeth,  happened  to 
fall  under  his  notice.— —Ten 
years  later,  .  he  would  have 
been  as  accurate  in  paiiiiting 
Anne  of  Denmark  ! 

The  exgefs  of  relpe6lful 
ceremonial  ufed  at  decking  her 
Majefty's  tabie^ '  though*  not  in 
h€r  prefence,  and  the  kind  of 
adoration  and  genuflexion  paid 

to 


{  vii  ] 

-With  regard  to  the  ortho- 
graphy of  proper  Names, 
though  corredled  in  the  trail- 

jQation,  I  have  left  theminthe 

. '  ''-■■1 

original  as  I  found'  them-™- 
Accuracy  in    that    particular, 
was  not  the  Author's   merit ^: 
ITt  is  a  merit  peculiar  to  Eng- 
liflimen  :    The  French  are  ne- 
gligent of  it  to  an  affedation  ; 
yet  the    author   of    Les  Me- 
langes   Hijioriques     complains 
that     other     nations    corrupt 
French  names !     He    himfelf 
gives    fome    Englifh    ones    in 
B  2  p.   247, 


[  viii  ] 
p.  247,  248.  which  it  is  im- 
pofTible  to  decypher.  Baflbm- 
pierre  calls  York-houfe,  Jor- 
chauxy  and  Kenfington,  In- 
himthort.  As  a  foldier  and 
embaflador,  he  was  not  oblig- 
ed to  know  the  names  of 
Houfes ;  when  he  turned 
author,  there  was  no  excufe 
for  not  being  intelligible.  Even 
Voltaire,  who  writes  the  lan- 
guage fo  well,  is  carelefs  in 
our  titles.  In  England,  it  is 
the  defedl  of  a  fervant  to 
blunder  in  proper  names.  It 
is  one  of  thofe  filly  preteniions 

to 


to  her  perfon,  approach  to 
Eaftern  homage.  When  we 
obferve  fuch  worlhip  offered  to 
an  old  Woman,  with  bare 
neck,  black  teeth,  and  falfe 
red  hair,  it  makes  one  fmile ; 
but  makes  one  refled:  what 
mafculine  fenfe  was  couched 
under  thofe  weaknefles,  and 
which  could  command  fuch 
awe  from  a  nation  like  Eng- 
land ! 

Not  to  anticipate  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  reader,    I  fhall 
make  but  one  more  refle<3:ion. 
B  We 


[vi] 

We  are  apt  to  think  that  Sir 
WiHiam  /  Temple,     and    king 
Williani,     were   in  a   mannfer 
thei  introducers   of   gardening 
into  England  :    By  the  defdrip- 
tion  of  lord  Burleigh's  gardens 
at  Theobalds,  and  of  thole  at 
Nonfuch,    we    find    that    the 
magnificent,  though  falfe  tafte, 
was  known  here  as  eariy  as  the 
reigns  of  Henry  VIII.  and  his 
Daughter.     There  is  Icarce  an 
unnatural  and  fiimptuous  im- 
propriety at  Verfailles,    which 
we  do  hot  find  in  Hentzrier's 
defcription     of    the     gardens 
above-mentioned.  With 


H  E  N  T  Z  N  E  R's 

ACCOUNT 


OF 


E  N   G  L   A  N   D. 


In  the  Year  M.D.XC.VIII. 


HENTZNERI 

ITINERARIUM. 


AD  oppidulum  Rye,  ubi  portus  eft  An- 
gliae,  pervenimus.  Quam  primum  hie 
nave  eflemus  egrefli,  Notario  loci  nomina 
noftra  dedimus,  prius  tamen  interrogati,  quid 
negotii  nobis  in  hoc  Regno  futurum  ?  Ubi 
refponfum  eilet,  nos  infulae  perluftrandae  gra- 
tia folummodo  hue  advenifle,  in  diverforiuni 
dedudi,  &  pro  Regionis  more,  bene  &  lautc 
fuimus  habiti. 

Equis  eurforiis  Londinum  profefti  fumus. 
Mira  horum  eeleritas ;  levibus  reguntur  frenis; 
ephippiis  utuntur,  ultra  fpithamam,  vix  me- 
dium digitum  latis. 

FlIMVVOLT, 


[  ix  ] 

to  politenefs,  which  nations 
that  affed:  a  fiiperiority,  have 

always  cultivated For  in  all 

affectations,  defeds  are  merits. 
The  readers  of  hiftory  love 
certainty :  It  is  pity  the  wri- 
ters do  not.  What  confulion 
would  it  have  faved,  if  it  had 
not  been  the  cuftom  of  the 
Jews  to  call  every  Darius  and 
Artaxerxes,  Ahafuerus !  It  were 
to  be  wifhed,  that  all  nations 
would  be  content  to  ufe  the 
appellations  which  people,  or 
refpedive  countries  have  chofen 
for  themfelves.     Proper  names 

ought 


ought  never  to  be  tortured  to 
any  particular  idiom.     What  a 
ridiculous  compofition  is  jJulu- 
gel !   Who  can   conceive  that 
Meylandty    fignifies  Milan;   or 
l^t^orWy  Livorno  f'  When  one 
is  mifled  by  a  proper  name,  the 
only  ufe  of  w^hich  is  to  dired:, 
pne    feels    like    the    Country- 
man, ,  who   complained.    That 
the,  houfes  hi7tdered  him  from 
feei?ig  Paris.- The  thing  be- 
comes an  obftrudion  to  itfelf. 


HEN- 


HENTZN  E  R^s 

TRAVELS. 


WE  arrived  at  Rye,  a  fmall  Englifh 
fea-port.  Here,  as  foon  as  we 
came  on  fhore,  we  gave  in  our  names  to 
the  Notary  of  the  place,  but  not  till  he  had 
demanded  our  bufmefs ;  and  being  ani'wered. 
That  we  had  none  but  to  fee  England  :  We 
were  conducted  to  an  inn,  where,  we  were 
very  well  entertained  ^  as  one  generally  is 
in  this  country. 

m  We  took  poft  horfes  for  London :    It  is 

furprizing  how  fwiftly  they  run,  their  bridles 
are  very  light,  and  their  faddles,  little  more 
than  a  fpan  over. 

C  Flimwell, 


2      HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Flimvvolt,  pagus  in  Anglia.  Hic  priori- 
bus  equis  dimiffis,  alios  confcendimus. 

TuMBRiDGE,  Angliae  pagum,  tranflvimus. 

Che  PS  TED,  Angliae  pagus,  in  quo  fecunda 
vice  priores  equi  dimittuntur,  &  novi  condu- 
cuntur, 

LoNDiNUM,  totius  Angliae  caputs  atque 
metropolis;  Cornel  io  Taci  to,  Londinium; 
Ptolomaeo,  Longidinium  ;  Ammiano  Mar^ 
cellino,  Lundinium  -,  exteris  Londra  & 
LoNDREs ;  incolis  London  dicitur ;  Bri- 
tannic!  imperii  fedes  Regumque  Angliae  Ca- 
mera ;  urbs  eft  antiquiflima,  in  comitatu 
Midlefexia,  regione  totius  Anglias  feraciffima 
&  faluberrima,  ad  flumen  Thamefim  lx, 
paffuum  millia  ab  oceano  fita ;  cujus  quidem 
primum  omnium  fundatorem,  Brutum  fuifle, 
conftanti  hiftoriarum  leftionc  perhibetur  i 
is  ex  Italia  in  Graeciam,  inde  in  Africam^ 
turn  in  Gallias,  acdemum  in  Britanniam  devc- 
.  niens. 


.  HENTZNER's  Travels.  a 

Flimwell,  a  village  ;    here  vire  returned 
our  firft  horfes,  and  mounted  frefli  ones. 

We  pafled  through  Tunbridge,    another 
village. 

Chepsted,    another  village  j  here  for  the 
iecond  time  we  changed  horfes. 

London,  the  head  and  metropolis  of  Eng- 
land :  Called  by  Tacitus,  Londinium  ;  by 
Ptolomey,  Longidinium  j  by  Ammianus 
Marcellinus,  Lundinium  ;  by  foreigners, 
Londra,  and  Londres  ;  is  the  feat  of  the 
Britifti  empire,  and  the  chamber  of  the  Eng- 
lifli  kings.  This  moft  antient  city,  is  in  the 
county  of  Middlefex,  the  fruitfulleft  and 
wholefomeft  foil  in  England,  It  is  built 
upon  the  river  Thames,  60  miles  from  the 
fea,  and  was  originally  founded,  as  all 
hiftorians  agree,  by  Brutus,  who  coming 
from  Greece  into  Italy,  thence  into  Africa, 
next  into  France,  and  laft  into  Britain, 
C  2  chofe 


3      HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

niens,  ad  Thamefim  fluvium,  fitu  &  opor- 
tun itate  loci  adducSius,  urbem  condidit,  Tro- 
JAMQUE  NOVAM  appdlavit,  quie  tandem  per 
corruptionem  Trinovantum  fuit  appellata. 
At,  poflquam  Lud,  frater  Caflibllauni,  five 
CafUvellauni,  qui  cum  Julio  Caefare  diixiica- 
vit,  cujus  ipfemet  Crefar  meminit,  lib,  5.  de 
Bell,  Gall,  regni  gubernacula  adeptus  eft, 
cinxit  earn  nobiliflimis  muris,  &  turribus, 
arte  mira  fabricatis,  &  de  nomine  fuo  juflfit 
eam  dici,  Caier  Lud,  id  eft  Civitas  Lud  ; 
dcinde  per  corruptionem  nominis  C.^rlun- 
da  ;  &  fuccedente  tempore,  per  commuta- 
tionem  linguarum,  Lundene,  ac  pofteaLuN- 
DRES,  dicta  fuit.  Mortuus  tandem  Lud,  in 
hac  urbe  fepultus  eft',  juxta  portam  iilam,  quae 
hoc  etiam  tempore,  PoR  Lud,  Britannice, 
Saxonicc  verb  Ludesgate  nuncupatur. 

Nobilis  ille  fluvius  Thamefis,  primo  Ifis 
r43minatus,  paulo  lupra  Vinchelcombiam  vi- 
Gum  oi-itur,  dcinde  rivis  pafTim  auctus,  citra 
Oxonium,  cum  flumine  Thami,  junciis  aquis, 
n.omen  quoquc  conjungit  \  ad  extremum   im- 

mani 


HENTZNER's    Travels.         3 

chofe  this  fitiiation,  for  the  convenience  of 
the  river,  calling  it  Troja  nova,  which 
name  was  afterwards  corrupted  into  T ri- 
ng van  t.  But  when  Lud,  the  brother  of 
CafTibilan,  or  Cailivelan,  who  warred  againft 
Julius  Caefar,  as  he  himfelf  mentions,  lib,  5. 
d0  BelL  GalL  came  to  the  crown,  he  encom- 
pafled  it  with  very  ftrong  walls,  and  towers 
very  artfully  conftru6i:ed,  and  from  his  own 
name  called  it  Caier  Lud,  /.  e.  Lud's  City. 
This  name  was  corrupted  into  that  of  C^R- 
LUNDA,  and  again  in  time  by  change  of 
Language,  into  Lundres.  Lud,  when  he 
died,  was  buried  in  this  town,  near  that  gate 
which  is  yet  called  in  Welch,  PoR  Lud, 
in  Saxon,  Ludesgate. 

The  famous  river  Thames,  owes  part  of 
its  ftream,  as  well  as  of  its  appellation,  to 
the  Ifis ;  rifing  a  little  above  Winchelcomb, 
and  being  encreafed  with  feveral  rivulets, 
unites  both  its  waters,  and  its  name  to  the 
Thame,  on  the  other  fide  of  Oxford,  thence 
after  paiTmg  by  London,  and  being  of  the  ut- 

moft 


4      HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

mani  maris  aeftu  (qui  bis,  ut  ait  Gemma 
Frifius  XXV.  horarum  fpacio  amplius  Lxxx. 
paffuum  millibus  fluit  ac  refluit,  Polydorus 
Vergilius  Urbinas  lib.  i.  AngL  Hljl.  fcribit, 
Themefim  fluvium  xxiv.  horarum  fpacio, 
bis  fluere  atque  refluere,  amplius  LX.  paffuum 
millibus)  excipitur,  atque  navigabilis  ac  vaf- 
tus,  permagno  mortal ium  commodo,  ipfam 
urbem  alluens,  in  oceanum  influit, 

Porro  urbs  Londinenfis,  &  per  fe  maxi- 
ma eft,  &  fuburbia  habet  ampliflima,  nee  non 
arcem,  Turrim  appellatam,  pulcherrime  ex- 
truftam. 

^dificiis  verb  atque  templis  magnifice  or- 
natur,  vicenis  fupra  centenas  aedibus,  quas 
Parochiales  vocant,  venerabilis. 

Meridiem  verfus,  pontem  habet  lapideum, 
800  pedes  longum,  opus  certe  mirabile ;  et 
enim  xx.  ftant  ex  lapide  quadrato  pilae,  altjE 
pedes  LX.  latae  xxx.  diftantque  inter  fe  circi- 
ter  pedes  xx.  fornicibus  conjunftae,  fuper  cu- 
ius 


HENTZNER's   Travels.         4 

moft  utility,  from  its  greatnefs  and  naviga-^ 
tion,  it  opens  into  a  vaft  arm  of  the  fea, 
from  whence  the  tide,  according  to  Gem- 
ma Frifius,  flows  and  ebbs  to  the  diftance  of 
80  miles,  twice  in  25  hours,  and  according 
to  Polydore  Virgil,  above  60  miles,  twice  in 
24  hours. 

This  city  being  very  large  of  itfelf,  has 
very  extenfive  fuburbs,  and  a  fort,  called  the 
Tower,  of  beautiful  ftru6lure»  It  is  magni- 
ficently ornamented,  with  public  buildings 
and  churches,  of  which  there  are  above  120 
parochial. 

On  the  South,  is  a  bridge  of  ftone,  800 
feet  in  length,  of  wonderful  work  ;  it  is  fup- 
ported  upon  20  piers  of  fquare  ftone,  60  feet 
high,  and  30  broad,  joined  by  arches  of 
about  20  feet  diameter.  The  whole  is  cover- 
ed on  each  fide  with  houfes,  fo  difpofed,  as  to 
have  the  appearance  of  a  continued  ftreet, 
not  at  all  of  a  bridge* 

Upon 


5  H  E  N  T  Z N  E  RI  Itiner arivm. 

jus  dorfo,    domicilia  utrinque  ea  difpofitfoiief 

6  ordine  cernuntur,  ut  perpetui  fere  vici  fpe- 
ciem,  noil  pontis  cxhibeant. 

Ponti  Lohdinenfi  turns  inaedlficata  eft,  in 
cujus  fummitate,  reorum  laefae  majeftatis,  & 
patriae  proditorum  capita,  perticis  ferreis  affixa 
conrpiciuntur,  ultra  triginta  nos  horum  mime- 
ravimus. 

Paul  us  lovius  clariflimas  Britanrfia?  urbes 
defcribens  ;  harum  omnium,  inquit,  famaiW| 
Lohdinum  penitus  obfcurat,  Trinobanturri, 
ut  plures  exiftimant,  civitas,  C.  lulio  Caefari 
nuncupata,  totius  Britanniae  regia,  multarum 
gentium  commercio  nobilitata,  excultai  doitii- 
bus,  ornata  templrs,  excelfa  arcibus,  &  dcni- 
que  rerum  omnium  copia,  atque  opum  afflu- 
cntia,  valde  mirabilis.  Invehit  In  earn  totius 
orbis  opes  ipfe  Thamefis,  ftatis  horis,  oceaiii ' 
asftibus  fuperbus  &  tumidtis,  onerariis  navi-- 
bus  ab  oftio  per  tx.  mtllia  paftuum,  ad  tir"- ' 
bem,  tuto  femper  &  praealto  alveo,  naviga- 
bilis.'    Ripas  undique  peramcenae  villae,  pfki-'^ 

diis 


HENTZNER's   Travels. 


Upon  this  is  built  a  tower,  on  whofe 
top  the  heads  of  fuch  as  have  been  executed 
for  high  treafon,  are  placed  upon  iron  fpikes  2 
We  counted  above  30; 


Paulus  lovius,  m  his  deicription  of  the 
moft  remarkable  towns  in  England,  fays,  all 
are  obfcured  by  London  :  Which  in  the  opi- 
nion of  many  is  Caefar's  city  of  the  Trino- 
bantes,  the  capital  of  all  Britain,  famous  for 
the  commerce  of  many  nations ;  it's  houfes 
are  elegantly  biiilt,  it's  churches  fine,  it'^ 
towns  ftrong,  and  it's  riches  and  abundance 
furpri^ing.  The  wealth  of  the  world  i^ 
wafted  to  it  by  the  Thames,  fwelled  by  the 
tide,  and  navigable  to  merchant  fhips, 
through  a  fafe  and  deep  channel  for  60 
miles,  from  its  mouth  to  the  city  :  It's  banks 
are  every  where  beautified  with  fine  country 
feats,  woods,  arid  farms ;  below,*  is  the  royal 
palace  of  Greenwich ;  above,  that  of  Rich- 
D  mond ; 


6      HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

diis  atque  nemoribus  diftinftae  paflim  exor- 
nant.  Ab  inferiore  fcilicet  parte  regia  domus, 
Grinuvicia,  ita  Anglice  a  viridariis  appellata  ; 
et  in  fuperlore  praetorium,  nomine  Ricemun- 
dum  ;  in  medio  autem  nobilis  ftru6lurae  exur- 
git  Weftmonafterium,  ab  occidua  urbis  parte, 
foro  ludiciali,  five  Parlamento,  ac  D.  Petri 
templo,  regum  fepulchris  exornato,  longe 
clariiTimum.  Atque  item  vigefimo  lapide  a 
Londino,  regium  caftrum,  Vindoforiae,  fece- 
deixtis  regis  peramcena  fede,  aliquotque  regum 
fepulchris  &  Garretteriorum  fodalium  ceremo- 
nia  percelebre.  Olores  autem  agminatim, 
iaeto  occurfu,  &  feftivis  cantibus  fubeuntes 
claiTes  excipiunt,  ac  undique  retia  fduris  atque 
Salmonibus  expanduntur.  lungitur  ad  urbem 
lapideo  ponte  ftruftura  mirifici  operis,  nee 
ullis  imbribus  augetur,  cuiji  unis  tantum  aefti- 
bus  intumefcat,     HaSfenus  Paulus  lovlus. 

Porro  Londinum,  tefte  Polydoro  Vergilio 
Uh.  4.  JngL  Hijh  ab  Archenini,  five  Erchen- 
vini  regis  ufque  temporibus,  regia  civitas  eft^ 
&  regni  caput,  civibus  &  alienigenis  frequen- 

tiilima^ 


HENTZNER's   Travels.         6 

mond  ;  and  between  both,  on  the  Weft  of 
London,   rife  the  noble  buildings  of  Weff- 
minfter,    moft  remarkable  for  the    courts  of 
Juftice,  the  Parliament,  and  St.  Peter's  church, 
enriched    with   the   royal    tombs.      At    the 
diftance  of  20  miles   from  London,     is  ihe 
caftle  of  Windfor,    a  moft  delightful  retreat  of 
the  kings  of  England,  as  well  as  famous  for  fe- 
veral  of  their  tombs,  and  for  the  ceremonial  of 
the  Order  of  the  Garter.     This  river  abounds 
in  Swans,    fwimming  in  flocks  ;    the  fight  of 
them,  and  their  noife,  is  vaftly  agreeable  to 
the  fleets  that  meet  them  in  their  courfe.     It 
is  joined  to  the  city  by  a  bridge  of  ftone,  won- 
derfully built;    is    never  encreafed  by    any 
rains,  rifmg  only  with  the  tide,  and  is  every 
where  fpread  with  nets,  for  the  taking  of  Sal- 
mon and  Shad.     Thus  far  Paulus  lovius, 

Polydore  Virgil  affirms,  that  London  has 
continued  to  be  a  royal  city,  and  the  capital 
of  the  kingdom,  crowded  with  its  own  in- 
habitants and  foreigners,  abounding  in  riches, 
and  famous  for  its  great  trade,  from  the  time 
of  king  Archeninus,  or  Erchenvinus.  Here 
D  z  the 


7      HENTZNERI  Itinerar?um. 

tifiima,  divjtiis  atque  opibus  aifluens,  emporio 
*  celeberrima.     In  ea  reges  diademate  regio  in- 
i[igriiuntur,  f  egnoque  caeremoniis  fplendidiilimis 
inaugurantur ;  in  ea  confdium  five  Parlamen- 
ttim  celebratur.    Adminiftratur  autem  antlquo 
,  ^ritannorum  regum  privilegio  a  xxiv,  civibus, 
quos  AngH  -Aldermannos  quafi  Seniares  vo- 
cant  J    ^x   qupmm  numero   praetore'm  urba- 
.num,'   Majorem    eorum    lingua   appellatum, 
■  Tribunofque  duos,   Scervips  vocatos,    ipfimet 
annua  commutatione  eligunt,  qui  in  jure  di- 
cundo  legibus  municipalibus  utuntur.     Mira 
eruditiilimorum  virorum,  cum  in  universa  Bri- 
tannia,   turn  in  bac  potillimurn  urbe  femper 
extitit  fertilitas,   qui  inter  Scriptores  celebra- 
tiffimi  cnituerunt. 

Patent  urbis  moenia  fex  portis,  qu«  no- 
vatae  nova  etiam  alTumferunt  nomina.  Ad 
occafum^jduse  ii^t. 

I.  LuDGATE,  aLuddo  rege, omnium  ^nti- 
quifTima,    cujus  nomen  etiarnnum  hodie  fi|- 
pra  portaqi  incifum  extat ;  five  Flutgate,  quo- 
rundam  opinione,  a  fluviolo  fubjefto,  ut  Por- 
ta 


s    HENTZNER'3    Travels.         7 

the  kings  are  crowned,  and  folemnly  inaugu- 
rated, and  the  council  of  the  nation,  or  Par- 
liament is  held.  The  government  of  the 
city  is  lodged  by  antient  grant  of  the  kings 
of  Britain,  in  24  Aldermen,  that  is,  Seniors : 
Thefe  annually  e|ea  out  of  their  own  body 
a  Mayor,  ?ind  two  SheriiFs,  who  determine 
caufes  according  to  the  municipal  laws.  It 
has  always  had,  as  indeed  Britain  in  general, 
a  jrreat  number  of  men  of  learning,  much 
diftinguifhed  for  their  writings. 

The  walls  are  pierced  with  fix  gates,  which 
as  they  were  rebuilt,  acquired  new  names. 
Two  look  Eaftward : 

I.  LuDGATE,  the  oldeft,  fo  called  from 
king  Lud,  whofe  name  is  yet  to  be  feen,  cut 
into  the  ftone  over  the  arch  on  one  fide; 
though  others  imagine  it  rather  to  have  been 
named  Fludgate,  from  a  ftream  over  which 
it  ftands,  like  the  Porta  Fluentana  at  Rome. 
It  has  been  lately  repaired  by  queen  Eliza- 
beth, whofe  ftatuc  is  placed  on  the  oppofite 

fide.     And 

11. 


8      HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 
ta  Fluentaiia  Romae,    nunc  a  regina   Elifa- 
betha  renovata  cujus  ftatua  ab   altera  quoque 
parte  vi'detur. 

II.  Newgate,  omnium  pulcherrima,  a 
novitate  fic  appellata,  prius  Chamberlangate, 
dic^a,  quae  publicum  eft  ergaftulum. 

Ad  feptentrionem  Quatuor. 

I.  Alders  GATE,  ab  alnetis,  vel  ab  Al- 
dricio  Saxone,  ut  aliis  placet. 

II.  Creplegate,  a  claudorum  hofpitio. 

III.  Moregate,  a  palude  adjuftdla,  nunc 
in  agrum  conversa,  primum  a  Francetio  Prae- 
tore.  Anno  Chrifti  m.cccc.xiv.  patefada. 

IV.  Bischopsgate,  ab  Epifcopo,  quam 
German!  Hanfiaticae  Societatis  Mercatores,  & 
inftaurare,  &  difficilioribus  temporibus  propug- 
nare  ex  pa6to  tenebantur,  atque  ad  iftam  & 
aperiendam  &  claudendam  clavem  habebarrt, 
quo,  neceflitate  fic  poftulante,  &  ingredi,  & 
cgredi,  no£tu  atque  interdiu  pofTent. 

Ad 


HENTZNER's   Travels.         8 

II.  NewqatEj  the  beft  edifice  of  any : 
So  called  from  being  new  built,  whereas  be- 
fore it  was  named  Chamberlain-gate.  It  is 
the  public  prifon. 

On  the  North  are  four  : 

I.  ALDERSGATEjas  fome  think,  from  alder 
trees ;  as  others,  from  Aldricius,  a  Saxon. 

II.  Criplegate,  from  an  hofpital  for 
the  lame. 

III.  MooRGATE,  from  a  neighbouring  mo-* 
rafs,  now  converted  into  a  field,  firft  opened  by 
*  Francetius  the  Mayor,  A.  D.  1414. 

IV.  And  BisHOPSGATE,  from  fome  Bi- 
fhop :  This  the  German  Merchants  of  the 
Hans  Society  were  obliged  by  compaft  to 
keep  in  repair,  and  in  times  of  danger  to 
defend.  They  were  in  pofleljion  of  a  key,  to 
open  or  fhut  it,  fo  that  upon  occafion  they 
could  come  in,  or  go  out,  by  night,  or  by  day. 

*  His  name  was  Sir  Thomas  Falconer* 

There 


9      HENTZNERI  Itinjerarium, 

Ad  Ortum  una  fola  eft  ; 

Aldgate,  a  vetuftate  fic  dida,  vel  Elbe- 
gate,  ut  alii  volunt. 

Ad  Thamefim,  duas  etiam  portas,  praeter 
illani  ad  pontem,  extitifle  nonnulli  creduiit. 

I.  Belnigsgate,  nunc  cothon,  five  por- 
tus  artificialis,  ad  recipiendas  naves. 

II.  DouRGATE,  id  eft,  Aquaria  porta, 
vulgo  Dovvgate. 

Templum  Cathedrale  D.  Paulo  fa- 
crum,  ab  Ethelberto  Anglo-Saxonum  rege 
conditum  eft,  quod  fubinde  reftauratum,  in 
maximum  &  magnificentiflimum  excrevit,  red- 
ditibufque  opulentum,  unde  praeter  Epifco- 
pum,  Decanus,  Praecentor,  Cancel!  ari  us, 
Thefaurarius,  Archidiaconi  quatuor,  Praeben- 
darii  XXIX.  &  alii  prolixe  aluntur.  Teftum 
hujus,  quern  adm6dum  &  omnia  fere  templa 
per  totam  Angliam,  una  cum  adjunda  turri', 
plumbo  obtedhitfi  eft. 

Ad 


HENTZNER's  TftAVfiiJi  9 

There  is  only  one  gate  to  the  Eaft : 
ALf)GATE,  that  is  Oidgate,   from  its  anti- 
quity; though  others  think  it  to  have  beea 
named  Elbegate. 

Several  people  believe,  there  v^erefbrfnerty 
two  gates  (befides  that  to  the  bridge)  towards 
the -Thames. 

I.  BiLLiNGSGATfe,  nov^acothon,  orarti-^ 
ficral  port^  for  the  reception  of  fhips. 

II.  D0URGATE5  vulgo  Dow^gate,  /.  e*. 
Water-gate. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul  was 
founded  by  Ethelbert,  king  o{  the  Saxons, 
and  being  from  time  to  time  fe-edified,  en- 
creafed  to  vaftnefs  and  magnificence,  and  in 
revenue  fo  much,  that  it  affords  a  plentiful 
fupport  to  a  Biftiop,  Dean,  Prascentor,  Trea- 
furor,  four  Archdeacons,  29  Prebendaries, 
and  many  others.  The  roof  of  )^iis,j/:Jjujrch,  : 
E  as 


lo    HENTZNERI  ItineraRium. 

Ad  dextrum  Chori  latus  eft  epitaphlum 
ex  marmore,  Nicolai  *  ne  Bacon  cum  uxore. 
Non  lonoe  ab  ifto  videtur  monumentum  mao-- 
nificum,  alabaftrinis,  marmoreifque  pyramidi- 
bus  ornatum,  cum  hiic  infcriptione  ; 

Sacrum  Memorise 

t  D.  Chr,  Hattoni  Gu.  Fil.  lo.  Nepos  anti- 
quifs.  Hattonorium  gente  oriundi ;  Rcgise  Ma- 
jeftatis,  D.  Eliz.  ex  Nobilibus  ftipatoribus  l* 
viri ;  Sacratioris  Camerae  Generoforum  unius ; 
Prastorianorum  militum  Ducis  ;  Regii  Proca- 
merarii;  Sanftioris  Confdi  Senatoris  5  fummi 
Angliae  ac  Oxon.  Acad.  Cancellarii ;  Ordinis 
Nobilifs.  San.  Georgian!  de  Perifcelide  Equi- 
tis  ;  maximo  Pfincipis,  omniumque  bonorum 
moerore  (cum  Li.  annos  coelebs  vixiilet)  xx. 
Novemb.  Anno  Chrifti  m.d.xci.  in  aedibus' 
fuis  Holburniae,  pie  fato  fundi. 

*  He  takes  this  ne  for  part  of  the  name^ 
vjhich  is  only  part  of  the  epitaph^  hie  Nic.  tic 
Baconem  conditum  exiftlma. 

X  This  infcription  may  be  feen   litterally  iti 

Dugdale's  St.  Panrs. 

Guliel. 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       iq 

as  of  moft  others  in  England,  with  the  adjoin- 
ing fteeple,  is  covered  v/ith  lead. 

On  the  right  fide  of  the  Choir  is  the  mar- 
ble tomb  of  Nicholas  Bacon,  with  his  wife. 
Not  far  from  this  is  a  magrxificent  monu- 
ment, ornamented  with  pyramids  of  marble, 
and  alabafter,  with  this  infcription  : 

Sacred  to  the  Memory  of 
Sir  Chriftopher  Hatton,  Son  of  William, 
Grand fon  of  John,  of  the  moft  antient 
Family  of  the  Hattons ;  one  of  the  50  Gen- 
tlemen Penfioners  to  her  Majefty  Queen 
Elizabeth  ;  Gentleman  of  the  Privychamber ; 
Captain  of  the  Guards ;  one  of  the  privy 
Council,  and  High  Chancellor  of  England, 
and  of  the  Univerfity  of  Oxford  :  Who,  to 
the  great  grief  of  his  Sovereign,  and  of  all 
good  Men,  ended  this  Life  religioufly,  after 
having  lived  unmarried  to  the  Age  of  51,  at 
his  Houfe  in  Holbourn,  on  the  20th  of  No- 
yemberj  A.  D.  1591. 

E  2  William 


II    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Guliel.  Hattonius  Eques  auratus,  ejus  c  fo- 
rore  nepos,  adoptione  filius  ac  haeres  moeftifs. 
Pietatis  ergo  pofuit. 

A  finiflro  latere  epltaphium  eft  marmoreum 
Guliel.  Herbert!,  Pembrochiae  Comitis  &  con- 
jugis  ipfi.s;  et  juxta,  tumulus  loannis  D. 
Lancaftriae^  cum  hac  infcriptione  : 

Hie  in  Domino  obdormi\  it  loaniics  Can- 
davenlls,  vulgo  de  Gant,  a  Gandavo  P'landriae 
Urbe  loco  natali  ita  denominatus,  Edwardi 
III.  Regis  Angliae  filius  quartus,  a  patre, 
Comitis  Richmondise  titulo  ornatus  -,  tres  fibi 
Uxorcs  in  matrimonium  duxit ;  Primam, 
Blancheam,  filiam  &  Haeredem  Henrici  Ducis 
Lancaftri'rC,  per  quam  amplifs.  adiit  haeredita- 
tem,  nee  folum  Dux  Lancaftrine,  (cd  etiam 
Leyceftriae,  I^incolniae,  &  Derbiap,  Comes  ef- 
fec^us,  e  cujus  fobole,  Imperatores,  Reges, 
Principes,  &  Proccres  propagati  funt  plurimi. 
Alteram  habuit  uxorcm  Conftantiam,  quae 
kic  cpntumulatur,    hliam    &  hxrcdem   Petri 

Regis 


•HENTZNER's   Travels.        ii 

William  Hatton,  Knight,  his  Nephew  by 
the  Sifter's  fide,  and  by  adoption  his  Son  and 
Heir,  moft  forrowfully  raifed  this  tomb,  a 
mark  of  his  duty. 

On  the  left  hand  h  the  marble  monument 
6f  William  Herbert  Earl  of  Pembroke,  and 
his  Lady:  And  near  it,  that  of  John,  Duke 
of  Lancafter,  with  this  infcription  : 

Here  fleeps  in  the  Lord,  John  of  Gant, 
ib  called  from  the  city  of  the  fame  name  in 
Flanders,  where  he  was  born,  fourth  Son  of 
Edward  IIL  King  of  England,  and  created 
by  his  Father,  Earl  of  Richmond.  He  was 
thrice  married,  firft  to  Blanch,  Daughter  and 
Heirefs  of  Henry  Duke  of  Lancafter ;  by 
her  he  received  an  immcnfe  Inheritance, 
and  became  not  only  Duke  of  Lancafter,  but 
Earl  of  Leicefter,  Lincoln,  and  Derby,  of 
whofe  Race  are  defccnded  many  Emperors, 
Kings,  Princes,  and  Nobles.  His  fecond 
Wife    v/as  Conftancc,    v/ho  is  here  buried. 

Daughter 


12    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Regis  Caftilise  &  Leglonis,  cujus  jure  optimo 
titulo  Reo;is  Caftiliae  &  Le^ionis  ufus  eft ; 
haec  unicam  ei  peperit  filiam  Catharinam,  ex 
qua  ab  Henrico  Reges  Hifpaniae  funt  progna- 
ti.  Tertiam  vero  duxit  uxorem  Catharinam, 
ex  Equeftri  familia,  &  eximia  pulchritudine 
foeminam,  ex  qua  numerofam  fufcepit  prolem, 
unde  genus  ex  matre  duxit  Henricus  VII. 
Angliae  Rex  prudentiflimus,  cujus  felicrflimo 
conjugio  cum  Elifabetha  EdvvardilV.  Regis 
filia,  e  ftirpe  Eboracenfi,  Regime  illae  Lancaf- 
trenfium  &  Eboracenfiunni  familiae  ad  exopta- 
tiilimam  Angliae  pacem  coaluerunt. 


IllufLriilimus  hie  Prjnceps  Iqannes  cogno- 
mento  Plantagenet,  Rex  Caftiliae  &  Legionis, 
Dux  Lancaftriae,  Comes  Richmondiae,  Leycef- 
triae,  Lincolniae  &  Derbiae,  locum  tenens 
Aquitaniae,  magnus  Senefchallus  Anglia^, 
Obiit  Anno  Regni  Regis  Richardi  Secundi 
xxi.  Annoquc  Chrifti  M.ccc.xc.vili. 

Duae 


HENTZNER^s    Travels.        12 

Daughter  and  Heirefs  of  Peter,  King  of 
Caftile  and  Leon,  in  whofe  right  he  moft 
*  juftly  took  the  Stile  of  King  of  Caftile  and 
Leon.  She  brought  him  one  only  Daughter, 
Catherine,  of  whom,  by  Henry,  are  defend- 
ed the  Kings  of  Spain.  His  third  Wife  was 
Catherine,  of  a  Knight's  Family,  a  woman 
of  great  Beauty,  by  whom  he  had  a  nume- 
rous progeny  ;  from  which  is  defcended  by 
the  Mother's  fide,  Henry  VIL  the  moft  pru- 
dent King  of  England,  by  whofe  moft  happy 
Marriage  with  Elizabeth,  Daughter  of  Ed- 
ward IV.  of  the  Line  of  York,  the  two  Royal 
Lines  of  Lancafter  and  York,  are  united,  to 
the  moft  defired  Tranquillity  of  England. 

The  moft  illuftrious  Prince,  John,  firnamed 
Plantagenet,  King  of  Caftile  and  Leon,  Duke 
of  Lancafter,  Earl  of  Richmond,  Leicefter^ 
aud  Derby,  Lieutenant  of  Aquitain,  High- 
Steward  of  England,  died  in  the  21ft  Year  of 
Richard  IL  A,  D.  1398. 

*  This  is  not  true^  for  her   legitimacy  was 

with  good  reafon  contejled* 

A  little 


13     HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Duae  poftea  arculae  faxeae,  m  concavo  qiko- 
dam  loco,  prope  Chori  fere  introitum  videntur, 

additd  tabella,  cum  hac  infcriptione  : 

Hie  jacet  Seba  Rex  Orientalium  Sax6- 
num,  qui  converfus  fuit  ad  fidem  per  S, 
Erckenwaldum,  Londinenfem  Epifcopum, 
AnnoChrifti  dc.lxxvii. 

Altera  infcriptio  eft  talis  : 

Hic  Jacet  Etheldredus  Anglorum  Rex  filiiis 
Edgari  Regis,  cul  in  die  coniecrationts  fuae^ 
poft  impofitam  coronam  fertur  S.  Dunftanus 
Cantuar.  Archiepifcopus  dira  pra^dixilTe  his 
verbis : 

t  *•'  Quoniam  adfpirafli  ad  regnum  per 
"  mortem  fratris  tui,  in  cujus  fanguine  con- 
*'  fpiraverunt  Angli,  cum  ignominiosa  mat  re 
*'  tua,  non  deficiet  gladius  de  dome  tua  faevi- 
*^  ens  in  te  omnibus  diebus  vitae  tuae,  infi- 
*^  cicns  de  femine  tuo,  quoufque  regnum 
**  tuum  transferatur  in  alrenum,  cujus  ritum 
**  &  linguam  gens,   cui  pr?tfides,  non  nov^r, 

"  nee 


HENTZNER's    Travels.        13 

A  little  farther,  almoft  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Choir,  in  a  certiiin  recefs,  are  two  fniall 
ftone  chefts,  one  of  which  is  thus  infcribed  : 

Here  lies  Seba,  King  of  the  Eaft  Saxons, 
who  was  converted  to  the  Faith  by  St.  Er- 
kenwald,  Bilhop  of  London,  A.  D.  677. 

On  the  other: 

Here  lies  Ethelred,  King  of  the  Angles, 
Son  of  King  Edgar ;  on  whom  St.  Dunflari 
is  faid  to  have  denounced  vengeance,  on  his 
coronation-day,  in  the  following  words  : 

f  ^^  In  as  much,  as  thoii  haft  afpired  td 
''  the  throne  by  the  death  of  thy  broth:?r, 
^*  againft  whofe  blood  the  Englifh,  along 
'^  with  thy  infamous  mother,  confpired;  the 
<'  fword  (hall  not  pafs  from  thy  houfe  !  but 
*^  rage  all  the  days  of  thy  life,  afflicling  all 
*'  thy  generation,  till  thy  kingdom  Ihall  be 
*'  tranflated  to  another,  whofe  manner,  and 
"  language,  the  people  under  thee,  knoweth 
F  "  not* 


X4    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

''  nee  expiabitur,  nifi  longa  vindifta,  pecca- 

''  turn  tuum,    &   peccatum  matrls   tuje,    & 

^^  peccatum  virorum,     qui    infuere    confilio 

*'  tuo  nequam." 

Qiiae,  ficut  a  viro  SaiiiSlo  praedi£la  erant, 
evenerunt;  nam  Etheldrcdus  variis  pr^ellis, 
per  Suenonem  Danorum  regem,  filiumque 
fuum  Canutum,  fatigatus  &  fugatus,  ac  tan- 
dem Londini  ar6ta  obfidione  conclufus  mifere 
diem  obiit,  Anno  Domino  M.xvii.  poftquam 
annis  xxxvi.  in  magna  tribulatione  regnaflet. 

Monumentum  poftea  in  medio  tempi i  ex 
orichalco  eft,  cujufdam  Epifcopi  Londinenfis 
Gulielmi,  qui  Edwardo  regi  Angliae  familia- 
ris,  &  paulo  poft  Gulielmi  regis  Angliae  con- 
filiarius  fa6lus,  fedit  annos  xvi.  mortuus 
Anno  Chrifti  m.lxxvii.  Non  longe  videtuF 
haec  infcriptio  : 

Fivit  fojl funera  Virtus. 
Et  fub  ifto  haec ; 
Thomjc  Linacro,  clarifs.  Medico,  Joannes 
Cajus  pofuit.  M.DrLVii.  M.  Augufto*     Poftea 

talia 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       14 

**  not.  Nor  fhall  thy  fin  be  done  away  till 
*'  after  long  chartifement,  nor  the  fin  of  thy 
*'  mother,  nor  the  fin  of  thofe  men,  who 
«'  affifted  in  thy  wicked  council." 

All  which  came  to  pafs,  as  predicted  by 
the  Saint ;  for  after  being  worfted  and  put  to 
flight  by  Sueno  king  of  the  Danes,  and  his 
fon  Canute  ;  and  at  laft  clofely  befieged  in 
London,  he  died  miferably  A.  D.  1017,  after 
he  had  reigned  36  years  in  great  difficulties. 

There  is  befides  in  the  middle  of  the 
church  a  tomb  made  of  brafs,  of  fome 
Bifhop  of  London,  named  William,  who 
was  in  favour  with  Edward  king  of  England, 
and  afterwards  was  made  counfellor  to  king 
William.  He  was  Bifhop  16  years,  and  died 
A.  D.  1077.  Near  this,  is  the  following 
infcription  : 

Virtue  furvlves  the  FuneraU 
To  the  Memory  of 
Thomas   Linacre,    an   eminent  Phyfician, 
JC'hn  Caius  placed  this  Monument.     On  the 
F  2t  lower 


\ 


JS    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

talis  infcripticr,  litcris  aureis,  in  inferiori  parte 
pofita  legitur : 

Thomas   Linacrus,     Regis   Henrici  VIIL 

MedJcus,  Vir  &  Graecae  &  Latinae  artis, 
in  re  medica  Ipnge  eruditilTimus,  multos  aetate 
fua  langi^entes,  &  qui  jam  anirnum  defpon- 
derant,  Vitae  reftituit,  multa  Galeni  opera, 
in  Latinam  linguam,  mira  &fingulari  facundia 
yercit,  egregjum  opus  de  emendata  ftruci:ura 
Latiiii  fermonis^  amicprum  rpgatii,  paulo 
ante  mortem  edidit,  Medlcinae  ftuJiofis  Oxo- 
T\\d£  publicas  lediones  duas,  Cantabrigae 
unam  in  perpetuum  ftabilivit;  in  hac  Urbc 
Collegium  Medicorum  fieri  fua  induRria  cu* 
ravit,  ciijus  &  praefidens  primus  eledtus  efi:, 
fraudes  dolofque  mire  perofus  fiduique  amicis, 
omnibus  Ordinibus  juxta  char  us,  aliquot 
ahhos  antequam  obiret  prefbyter  faclus,  ple« 
nus  annis  ex  hac  vita  migravlt,  niultum  defi- 
dcratus,  Anno  Domhii  m.d.xxiv.  die  xx. 
D£tobris. 

Sunt 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        15 

lower  part  of  it,    is  this    infcription    in  gold 
letter^  ; 

Thomas  Linacre,  Phyfician  to  king  Henry 
VIII.  a  Man  learned  in  the  Greek  and  Latin 
Languages,  and  particularly  fkilful  in  Phyfick, 
by  which  he  reftored  many  from  a  State  of 
Janguifliment  and  defpair  to  Life.  He  tranf- 
lated  with  extraordinary  Eloquence  many  of 
Galen's  Works  into  Latin  ;  and  publifhed, 
a  little  before  his  Death,  at  the  requcfl  of 
his  Friends,  a  very  valuable  Book  on  the 
corre/ft  Stru61:ure  of  the  Latin  Tongue.  He 
founded  in  perpetuity  in  favour  of  Students 
in  Phyfick,  two  public  LecSures  at  Oxford, 
and  one  at  Cambridge.  In  this  City  he 
brought  about  by  his  own  Induflry  the  efta- 
blifhino;  of  a  College  of  Phvficians,  of  which 
he  was  elected  the  firft  Prefident.  He  was 
a  detefler  of  all  Fraud  and  Deceit,  and  faith- 
ful in  his  Friendfhips  ;  equally  dear  to  Men 
of  all  Ranks  :  He  went  into  Orders  a  few 
Years  before  his  Death,  and  quitted  this  Life 
full  of  Years,  and  much  lamented,  A.  D. 
1524,  on  the  20th  of  October. 

There 


i6     HEMTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Sunt  &  alia  plura  In  hoc  templo  epitaphia 
fed  abfque  infcriptionibus.  Organum  poftea 
pneumaticum  habet  egregium,  &  horis  vefper- 
tinis,  aliis  adjundtis  inflrunicntis^  exceliens 
mufica  auditur. 

In  fuburbio,  OcciJcntem  verfus,  quod 
continuatis  a^dibus,  &  fuperbis  fecundum 
Thamefim  procerum  habitationibus.  West- 
MONASTF.RiUM  oppidulum  plus  mill.  pafs.  ad- 
jurtvSum  ufbi  addidit,  Thorney  olimafpinis, 
nunc  Westmunster  ab  occiduo  fitu  & 
Monafterio  dicSlium,  templum  ei\  inauguratione 
fegum  Angliae,  &  regia  fepultura  imprimis 
infigne  ;  Apollinis  delubrum  eo  loci  extitiflc 
dim  fama  eil,  &  Antonino  Pio  imperantc 
terrae  motu  corruifle  ;  ex  cujus  reliquiis,  Se- 
bertus  rex  orientalium  Saxonum  alterum  D, 
Petro  erexit,  quod  a  Danis  dcje6tum  renova- 
vit  &  pauculis  Monachis  Dunflanus  Epifco- 
pus  conceilit.  Sod  poftea  iEdvvardus  rex, 
cognomento  Confeflbr,  fibi  in  fepulturam  & 
Ecncdiftinis   Monachis  in   monafterium,    ex 

dccimus 


HENTZNER's    Travels,        i6 

There  are  many  tombs  in  this  church, 
but  without  any  infcriptions.  It  has  a  very 
fine  Organ,  which  at  evening  prayer,  accom- 
panied with  other  inftruments,  is  delightful. 

In  the  fuburb  to  the  Weft,  joined  to  the 
city  by  a  continued  row  of  palaces  belonging 
to  the  chief  nobility,  of  a  mile  in  length,  and 
lying  on  the  fide  next  the  Thames,  is  the 
fmall  town  of  Westminster  ;  originally 
called  Thorney  from  it's  thorn  bufhes,  but 
now  Westminster,  from  it's  afpeft  and 
it's  Monaftery.  The  church  is  remarkable 
for  the  coronation,  and  the  burial  of  the 
kings  of  England.  Upon  this  fpot  is  faid 
formerly  to  have  flood  a  temple  of  Apollo, 
which  was  thrown  down  by  an  earthquake  in 
the  time  of  Antoninus  Pius  ;  from  the  ruins 
of  which  Sebert  king  of  the  Eaft-Saxons 
creeled  another  to  St.  Peter  :  This  was  fub- 
verted  by  the  Danes,  and  again  renewed  by 
bifhop  Dunftaii,  who  gave  it  to  a  few  Monks. 
Afterwards,    king  Edward  the  Confeflbr  built 

it 


I'j    HENTZNERI  Itikerarium, 

decimis  cmnlum  fuorum  reddltuum  de  inte- 
gro  conftruxit,  &  patrimoniis  tota  Anglia  dii- 
perfis  ditavit# 

111  hoc  tcmpio,  notata  drgna  furit  fe-* 
quentia  : 

In  primo  Choro  ell  tumulus  Annas  Cllven- 
fis  uxoiis  Henrici  VIII.  abfque  infcriptionc. 

Ex  oppofito  funt  fepulchra  duo  lapidea : 
I.  Edmundi  Comiti&  Lancaftrise,  fratris  Ed- 
wardi  I.  II.  Adenaeri  de  Valentia,  Comitis 
Benbrochije,  filii  Gulielmi-  de  Vakntia^  His 
adjunvSluin  eft  III.  ex  marmore  aIbo>  Ave- 
lin-e  Comitiffie  Lancaftriae. 

In  fccundo  Choro  videtur  fella,  in  qua  re- 
ges  inaugurationis  tempore  fedent ;  huic  in- 
clufus  efie  dicitur  lapis  Patriarchae  Jacobi,  fu- 
pra  quem  dormiens  recumbebat,  cum  haberet 
fomnium  de  fcala  ad  coelum  ufque  pertin- 
gente  ;  adjeftae  tabellae  hi  verfus  funt  in- 
fcripti : 

Si" 


HENTZNER's  Travels.         17 

it  entirely  new,  with  the  tenth  of  his  whole 
revenue,  to  be  the  place  of  his  own  burial, 
and  a  convent  of  Benedictine  Monks;  and 
enriched  it  with  eftates  difperfed  all  over 
England. 

In  this  church,  the  following  things  are 
worthy  of  notice : 

In  the  firft  Choir,  the  tomb  of  Anne  of 
Cleves,  wife  of  Henry  VIII.  without  any 
infcription. 

On  the  oppofite  fide  are  two  ftone  fepul- 
chres.  I.  Edward,  Earl  of  Lancafter,  bro- 
ther of  Edward  I.  11.  Ademar  of  Valence, 
Earl  of  Pembroke,  fon  of  Ademar  of  Valence. 
Joining  to  thefe  is  a  III.  of  Aveline  Coun- 
tcfs  of  Lancafter. 

In  the  fecond  Choir  is  the  chair  on  which 
the  kings  are  feated,  when  they  are  crov/ned  ; 
in  it  is  enclcfed  a  ftone,  faid  to  be  that  on 
which  the  Patriarch  Jacob  ficpt,  when  he 
dreamed  he  (inv  a  ladder  reaching  quite  up  in- 
G  to 


i8    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium, 

Si  quid  hatent  veri,  vel  Chronica  cana,  fidefve, 

Clauditur  hac  cathedra  nobilis  ecce  lapis. 
Ad  caput  eximius  Jacob  quondam  Patriarcha 

Quern  pofuit,  cernens  numina  mira  poli. 
Quern  tulit  ex  Scottis   fpolians    quafi  viilor 
honoris 

Edvvardus  primus.  Mars  velut  omnipotens. 
Scottorum  domitor  nofter  validiilimus  Heftor, 

Anglorum  decus  &  gloria  militiae. 


Richardi  II.  monumentum  cum  uxore  eX 
orichalco  deaurato,  his  verfibus  in  circuitu 
fcrfptis : 

Prudens  &  mundus  Richardus  jure  Secundus 
Per  fatum  villus  jacet  hie  fub  marmore  picSusj 
Verax  fermone  fuit  &  plenus  ratione, 
Corpore  procerus,  prudens  animo  ut  Homerus, 
Ecclefiae  favit,  elatos  fuppeditavit, 
Qucmvis  proftravit,  Regalia  qui  violavit. 

ETctra 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        i8 

to  heaven.  The  following  verfes  are  vi^rltten 
upon  a  tablet  hanging  near  it ;  the  fenfe  of 
which  is : 

That  if  any  Faith  is  to  be  given  to  ancient 
Chronicles,  a  Stone  of  great  Note  is  inclofed. 
in  this  Chair,  being  the  fame  on  which  the 
Patriarch  Jacob  repofed,  when  he  beheld  the 
miraculous  defcent  of  Angels.  Edward  I. 
the  Mars  and  Heftor  of  England,  having 
conquered  Scotland,  brought  it  from  thence. 

The  tomb  of  Richard  II.  and  his  wife, 
of  brafs  gilt,  and  thefe  verfes  written  round  it : 

Perfect:  and  Prudent,  Richard,  by  right  the 

Second, 

Vanquifh'd    by  Fortune,    lies    here    now 

graven  in  Stone, 

True  of  his  Word,  and  thereto  well  refbund ; 

Seemly  in  Perfon,  and  like  to  Homer,  as  one 

In  worldly  Prudence,  and  ever  the  Church  in  one 

Upheld  and  favour'd,    cafting   the   proud  to 

Ground, 
And  all  that  would  his  Royal  State  confound. 

Dart. 

G  Z  Without 


19    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Extra  tumulum  talis  eft  infcriptio : 

Hie  jacet  immiti  confumtus  morte  Richardus, 
Anno  1369,  Fuijfe  felicem  miferrimum. 

Huic  adjun£lus  eft  tumulus  conjugis  ipfius 
Quas  fuit  filia  Wenceflai  Imperatoris. 

Ad   latus  fmiftrum  eft  Edvvardi  I.    fepul- 
chrum  cum  hac  infcriptione  : 

Edwardus   primus  Scottorum  malleus  hie  eft. 
An.  1308.   PaSfumferva,    Regnavit  An.  46, 

Edvvardi  III.  monumcntum  ex  cupro  deau- 
rato  cum  hac  infcriptione  : 

Hie  deeus  Anglorum,  flos  Regum  praeteritorum, 
Fbrma  futurorum,Rex  clemens^pax  populorum, 
Tertius    Edwardus    Regni    complens    jubi- 
leum,  &c. 

Extra 


"  HENTZNER's   Travels.        19 

Without  the  tomb  is  this  infcription  : 

Here  lies  King  Richard,   who  perifhed  by  a 

cruel  Death,  in  the  Year  1369. 

To  have  been    happy  is  additional  Mifery. 

Near  him    is  the   monument  of  his  queen, 
daughter  oft  he  Emperor  Wenceflaus. 

On  the  left  hand  is  the  tomb  of  Edward  I. 
with  this  infcription : 

Here  lies  Edward  I.  who  humbled  the  Scots. 

A.  D.  1308.     Be  true  to  your  Engagements. 

He  reigned  46  years. 

The  tomb  of  Edward  III.    of  copper  gilt, 
with  this  epitaph ; 

Of  Englifh  Kings  here  lycth   the  beauteous 

Flower, 
Of  all  before  paft,  and  Myrror  to  them  fhall 

fue : 
A  merciful  King,  of  peace  Confervator, 
The  Third  Edward,  ^c. 

Fid.  Dart.  2. 44. 

Befide 


20    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Extra  tumulum  hoc  legitur : 

Tertius  Edwardus  fama  fuper  aethera  notuj,: 
Anno   1377.      Pugna  pro   P atria. 

Videtur  ibidem  gladius  ipfius,  quo  Gallos  do* 
mafle  &viciire  dicitur,  longitudine  odo  pedum, 

Conjugis  ejus  Philippas  Epitaphium  eft  tale; 
Gonjunx  Edvvardi  jacet  hie  Regina  Philippa. 

Difce  vivere.     Anno  1469. 

Henrici  V.  monumentum  paululum  hinc 
eft  remotum,  cum  infcriptione  tali : 

Gallorum  maftrix  jacet  hie  Henrieus  in  Urna. 
Anno  1422.     Do?nat  omnia  virtus. 

Huic  vieinum  eft  monumentum  Catharinnp, 
quae  adhue  infepulta  jacet,  ita  ut  arcula  vel 
urna  a  quolibet  poffit  aperiri,  hac  infcriptione 
extcrius  addita  : 

Pulchra  virumq;  fuum  fociat  tandem  Catharina. 
Anno  1437.     Otiumfuge. 

Henrici 


HENTZNER's  Travels,        20 

Befide  the  tomb  are  thefe  words  : 

Edward  III.  whofe  Fame  has  reach'd  to  Heaven. 
A.  D.  1377.     Pight  for  your  Country, 

'  Here  is  Ihown  his  fword,  eight  feet  in 
length,  which  they  fay  he  ufed  in  the  con- 
queft  of  France. 

His  queen's  epitaph : 

Here  lies  Queen  Philippa,  Wife  of  Edward  HI. 

Learn  to  Live,     A.  D.  1369. 

At  a  little  diftance,  the  tomb  of  Henry  V. 
with  this  legend : 

Henry,  the  fcourge  of  France,  lies  in  thisTomb, 
Virtue  fubdues  all  Things,     A.  D.  1422. 

Near  this  lies  the  coffin  of  Catherine,  un- 
buried,  and  to  be  opened  by  any  one  that 
pleafes.     On  the  outfide  is  this  infcription : 

Fair  Catherine  is  at  length  united  to  her  Lord. 
A,  D.  1437.     ^^^  Idlenefs. 

The 


21    HENTZNERI  Itineraricm. 


Henrici  III.    epitaphium  ex   lere  deaurato 
cum  hac  infcriptione  ; 


Tertlus  Henricus   eftTempli  conditor  hujus. 

Anno    1273. 

Duke    helium  inexpertis. 

Hie  Henricus  poft  160.  annos,  hanc  Ed-r 
wardi  fabricam  fubvertit,  novamque  ecclefiam 
fpeciosa  ftrudlura,  multiplici  marmorearum 
columnarum  ordine,  tefto  laminis  plumbels 
conveftito,  quinquaginta  annorum  opere  ex- 
aedificavit,  quam  Abbates  ad  occafum  pluri- 
;nuni  auxerunt.  Expulfis  poftea  Monachis, 
ad  varias  fubinde  vices  revoluta  fuit ;  primum 
Decanum  habuit  &  Praebendarios,  mox  Eplf- 
copum,  qui  patrimonio  dilapidate)  ceilit,  & 
Decano  reliquit  5  ftatim  Monachi,  cum  fud 
Abbate,  a  Maria  regina  redu6ti,  quibus  paulo 
poft  authoritate  Parlamentaria  eje^lis  in  col- 
Icgiatam  ecclefiam,    imo  ecclefiae  plantarium 

convertit 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       aj 

The  tomb  of  Henry  III.  of  brafs  gilt,  with 
this  epitaph  : 

Henry  III.    the  Founder  of  this   Cathedral. 

A.  D.  1273. 

Tf^ar  is  delightful  to  the  unexperienced* 

It  was  this  Henry,  who  160  years  after 
Edward  the  ConfelFor  had  built  this  church, 
took  it  down,  and  raifed  an  entire  new  one  of 
beautiful  architeJlure,  fupported  by  rows  of 
marble  columns,  and  it's  roof  covered  with 
fheets  of  lead,  a  work  ©f  50  years  before  it's 
completion.  It  has  been  much  enlarged  at  the 
Weft  end  by  the  Abbots.  After  the  expul- 
fion  of  the  Monks,  it  experienced  many 
changes  ;  firft  it  had  a  Dean  and  Prebendaries  ; 
then  a  Bifhop,  who  having  fquandered  the  re- 
venues, refigned  it  again  to  a  Dean.  In  a 
little  time,  the  Monks  with  their  Abbot  were 
reinftated  by  queen  Mary;  but  they  being 
foon  ejedled  again  by  authority  of  Parlia- 
ment, it  was  converted  into  a  Cathedial 
Church  3  nay,  intaa  feminary  for  the  Church, 
H  by 


22    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

convertit  fereniHima  Jiv^a  Elifabetha,  Praeben- 
darios  inftitult  duodecim,  tot  emeritos  milites, 
fcolafticos  quadraglnta  (alumni  regii  dicuntur) 
qui  fuo  tempore  ad  Academias  promoventur, 
&  in  Ecclefiam  &  Rempubllcam  transferuntur, 

Videtur  poftea  tumulus  Aleonorae  filiae  Al- 
phonfi  regis  Hifpaniae,  conjugis  Edvvardi  I. 
regis  Angliae  cum  hac  infcriptione  : 

Confors  Edwardi   Primi  fuit  haec  Aleonora, 
Anno  1298.     Difce  inoru 

Elifabethae  filiae  Henrici  VII.  regis  Angliae 
epitaphium. 

In  medio  Chori  hujus  fepultus  eft  S.  Edvvar- 
dus,  qui  fuit  ultimus  rex  Saxonum.  Monu- 
mentum  eft  ex  marmore  Mofaici  operis,  hac^ 
in  circuitu  aureis  Uteris,  infcriptione  addita: 

Omnibus  infignis  Virtutum    laudibus   Heros 

Sandus  Edward  us  Confeffor,  rex  venefaTrdus. 

Quinto  die   Jani  moriens   1 065, 

Super  sethera   fcandit. 

Surfum  Corda, 

Tertlum 


HENTZNER's   Travels.      2i 

by  queen  Elizabeth,  who  inftituted  there  12 
Prebendaries,  an  equal  number  of  invalid 
Soldiers,  and  40  Scholars;  who  at  a  proper 
time  are  elected  into  the  Univerfities,  and 
are  thence  tranfplanted  into  the  Church  and 
State. 

Next  to  be  {^cn  is  the  tomb  of  Eleanor, 
daughter  of  Alphonfo  king  of  Spain,  and 
wife  of  Edward  I.  w^ith  this  infcription : 

This  Eleanor  was  Confort  of  Edward  I. 
A.  D.   1298*      Learn  to  die. 

The  tomb  of  Elizabeth,  daughter  of 
Heniy  VII. 

In  the  middle  of  this  Chapel  is  the  Shrine 
of  St.  Edward,  the  laft  king  of  the  Saxons.  '  It 
is  compofed  of  marbles  in  Mofaic ;  round  it 
runs  this  infcription  in  letters  of  gold  : 

The  venerable  King,  St.  Edward  the  Confeflbr, 

A  Hero  adorned  with  every  Virtue. 

jfle  died  on  the  fifth  of  January,  1065, 

And  mounted  into  Heaven. 

Lift  up  your  Hearts, 

{J«  The 


23    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Tcrtium  Chorum,  admirandi  fplendoris  & 
elegantiae,  Henricus  VII.  Angliae  rex,  in  fuam 
&  fuae  pofteritatis  fepulturam,  ad  ortum  adje- 
cit,  in  quo  fepulchrum  ipfius  magnificent iili- 
mum,  ex  aere  Sc  marmore  fabrefactum  cerni- 
tur  cum  infcriptione  tali ; 

Hie  jacct  Henricus  hujus  nominis  VII.  An- 
glian quondam  Rex,  Edmundi  Richemundiae 
Comitis  filius,  qui  die  xxii,  Aug.  Rex 
creatus,  ftatim  poft  apud  Weftrnonaflerium 
XXX.  06lobr.  coronatur.  Anno  Domini 
M.cccc.LXXXV.  Moritur  deinde  xxi.  April. 
Anno  JEt.  liii.  Regnavit  annos  xxii.  Men- 
fes  VIII.  minus  uno  die. 

Monumentum  clathris  ex  orichalco  circum- 

datum  eft. 

Fide  Dart,  p.  157.  vol.  i. 

Sub  eodem  tumulo  fepultus  jacet  Edvvar- 
dus  VI.  Angliae  Rex,  Henrici  VIII.  ex  loan- 
na  Semeria  filius,  qui  poftea  fiicceflit  patri, 
natus  annos  novem.    Obi i t  A  nno  iM .  d  .  l  1 1 1 .  v  1 . 

Julii 


HENTZNER's    Travels,        23 

The  third  Choir,  of  furprlzing  fplendor  and 
elegance,  was  added  to  the  Eaft  end  by  Henry 
VII.  for  a  burying  place  for  himfelf  and  his 
pofterity.  Here  is  to  be  feen  his  magnificent 
tomb,  wrought  of  brafs  and  marble,  with 
this  epitaph  : 

Here  lies  Henry  VII.  of  that  Name,  for- 
merly King  of  England,  Son  of  Edmund 
Earl  of  Richmond,  who  afcending  the  Throne 
on  the  2 2d  Day  of  Auguft,  was  crowned  on 
the  30th  of  OcSlober  following  at  Weftmin- 
jfter,  in  the  Year  of  our  Lord  1485.  He  died 
on  the  2ift  of  April,  in  the  53d  Year  of  his 
Age,  after  a  Reign  of  22  Years,  and  8 
Months,  wanting  a  Day. 

This  monument  is  inclofed.with  rails  of 
brafs,  with  a  long  epitaph  in  Latin  verfe. 

Under  the  fame  tomb  lies  buried  Edward 
VI.  King  of  England,  Son  of  Henry  VIII. 
by  Jane  Seymour.  He  fucceeded  to  his 
Fatlier  when  he  was  but  9  years  old,  and  died 
A.  D.   I553>  on  the  6th  of  July,  in  the  i6th 

year 


24    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

JuliiiEt.  XVI.  Regni  vii.  non  abfque  veneni 
fufpicione. 

Maria  falutatur  regina  Anglian  a  populo, 
XIX.  Julii  anno  poftea  m.d.lviii.  moritur 
Maria  xvii.  Novembris,  in  eodem  Choro,  in 
quod  am  angulo  fepulta  jacet,  abfque  infcrip- 
tione  tamen. 

Regina  Elifabetha. 

Hie  jacet  Regina  Elifabetha,  Edvvardi  IV. 
quondam  Regis  lilia ;  Edwardi  V.  quondam 
Regis  nominata  foror ;  Henrici  VIL  olim 
conjunx,  &  quse  Henrici  VIII.  Regis  mater 
inclyta.  Obiit  diem  fuum  in  Turri  Londi- 
nenfi,  die  xi.  Febr.  Anno  Domini  1502. 
xxxvii.  An.  JEt2.t, 

Intra  fecundum  &  tertium  Chorum,  in  fa^ 
cellis  lateralibus,  haec  epitaphia  leguntur  : 

Seberti  Regis  Orientalium  Saxonum,  fun- 
datoris  tempi  i,  ex  faxo. 

Margarethae  Ritfchmundias  Septimi  Hen- 
rici matri,  Oftavi  avia?,    quae  ftipendia  con- 

ftituit» 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       24 

year  of  his  age,  and  of  his  reign  the  7th,  not 
without  fufpicion  of  poifon. 

Mary  was  proclaimed  Qi^ieen  by  the  People, 
on  the  19th  of  July,  and  died  in  November, 
1558,  and  is, buried  in  fome  corner  of  the 
fame  Choir,  without  any  infcription. 

Queen  Elizabeth. 

Here  lies  Queen  Elizabeth,  Daughter  of 
Edward  IV.  Sifter  of  King  Edward  V. 
Wife  of  Henry  VII.  and  the  glorious  Mother 
of  Henry  VIII.  She  died  in  the  Tower  of 
London,  on  the  nth  of  February,  A.  D« 
1502,  in  the  37th  Year  of  her  Age. 

Between  the  fecond  and  third  Choirs,  la 
the  fide  Chapels,  are  the  tombs  of  Sebert 
King  of  the  Eaft-Saxons,  who  built  this 
Church  with  ftone  :  And 

Of  Margaret  of  Richmond,  Mother  of 
Henry  VII.  Grandmother  of  Henry  VIII. 
She  gare  this  Monaftery  to  the  Monks  of 

Winbournc, 


25    HENTZNERI  Itikerarium. 

ftitult,  tribiilt  hoc  Ccenobium  Monachis, 
&  Doctorlbus  Grammatices,  apud  Werbrun, 
perque  Angliam  totam  divini  verbi  prccconi- 
bus  ;  duobus  item  interpretibus  literarum 
facrarum,  alteri  Oxoniis,  altcri  Cantabriglse, 
ubi  &  Collegia  dua  Chrifto  &  Joanni  difci- 
pulo  ejus  ftruxit.  Moritur  Anno  Domim 
M.cccc.Lxiii.  Cal.  Julii. 

Margaretha    Comitifla    Levenofciae,    avia 
Jacobi  VL  Regis  Scottorum. 

Wilhelmus   de  Valentia,     frater    uterinum 
Henrici  III. 

Comes  Cornubiae  frater  regis  Edward i  III, 

In  tumulu  quodam  talis  infcriptio  legitur : 

In  Clariflimae  Dominac  Francifcae  SufFolciae 
quondam  Duciflae  Epicedion, 

Nil 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        25 

*  Winbourne,  who  preached  and  taught 
Grammar  all  England  over,  and  appointed 
Salaries  to  tv/o  ProfefTors  of  Divinity,  one  at 
Oxford,  another  at  Cambridge,  v/here  (he 
fo\jhded  tv/o  Colleges,  to  Chriii,  and  to  John 
his  Difciple.  She  died  A.  D.  1463,  on  the 
3d  of  the  Calends  of  July. 

And  of  Margaret  Countefs  of  Lenox, 
Grandmother  of  James  VI.  King  of  Scotland. 

William  of  Valence,  half  brother  of  Henry 
III. 

The  Earl  of  Cornwall,  brother  of  Ed- 
ward III. 

Upon  ai^.other  tomb  is  an  honorarv  infcrip- 
tion  for  Frances,  Dutchefs  of  Suftblk  ;  I'he 
i€n(e  of  it  is, 

*  Tbis  IS  amljlakc  :  Her  epitaph  fays ^  flip'^n- 
dia  conftituit  tribus  hoc  csenobio  Monachis  & 
DoSori  Grammatices  apud  Vv"^ynbourne. 

I  That 


26    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium, 


Nil   decus  aut   fplendor,    nil    regia    nominsi 
profuiit, 

Splendida  divitiis,  nil  juvat  ampla  domus  ; 
Omnia  fluxerunt,  virtutis  Tola  remanfit 

Gloria,  tartareis  non  abolcnda  rogis. 
NuptaDuci  prius  eft,  uxor  poft  arma  gercntis, 

Funere  nunc  Stoki  confociata  Df.o. 

In  confpeftu  deinde  eft  epitaphium  Domini 
Ruffel  filii  Comitis  Bcthfordiae,  cujus  uxor  hos 
Latinos  &  Graecos  verfus  compofuit,  &  in 
marmor  incidi  curavit. 

Mens  mea  crudcli  laniatur  faucia  morfu. 
Cum  fubit  oblata?  Mortis  Imago  tuse. 

Hseres  Vere  novo  Comitis  tu  Floris  ad  inftar, 
Uique  cadens  miferas  meque  meafque  facis. 

Quippe   Decor,  Vultus,    Linguae,  Morefque 
probati. 
Turn  Do&ina  peril,  fed  viget  alma  Fides. 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        26 

That  Titles,  Royal  Birth,    riches,   or  a  large 

Family,  arc  of  no  avail  ; 
That  all  are  Tranfitory  ;  Virtue  alone  reflift- 

ing  the  Funeral  Pile. 
That  this  Ivady  was  firfl:  married  to  a  Duke, 

then  to  Stoke,  a  Gentleman  ; 
And  laftly,  by  the  Grave  efpoufed  to  Christ. 

The  next  is  the  tomb  of  Lord  Ruflcl,  Son 
of  the  Earl  of  Bedford,  wfiofe  Lady  com- 
pofed  the  follow^ing  Greek,  and  Latin  Verfes, 
and  had  them  engraved  on  the  Marble. 

How  was  I  ftartled  at  the  cruel  Feaft, 
By  Death's  rude  Hands  in  horrid  manner  dreft ; 
Such  Grief  as  fure  no  haplefs  Woman  knew. 
When  thy  pale  Image  lay  before  my  View. 
Thy  Father's  Heir  in  -beatuous  Form  array'd. 
Like  Flowers  in  Spring,   and  fair,   like  them 

to  fade  ; 
Leaving  behind  unhappy  wretched  me. 
And  all  thy  little  Orphan-Progeny  : 
Alike  the  beauteous  Face,  the  comely  Air, 
The  Tongue  perfwafive,  and  the  A6lions  fair. 
Decay :  So  Learning  too  in  Time  fhall  wafte  i 
But  Faith,  chafle  lovely  Faitb,  fhall  ever  lafl* 
I  2  The 


27    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

Kvp  "^vx^^  yXvav  ri^TTpov  ifxrtq  omels  (fanvovf 

^Bv  fj^v  o1  ^v^ou    •xjri^fiy  zs^oci  T6  St^yol^i?, 

'Ev<T£^kri^  Evexa  'oroXvv  o}^ov  enuvoi;  Iwaypy, 
Ov^ctvie  ^slop(iii  crvfyivsa^  xsc^.tuif. 

Anna  Comltiffa  Oxon.  filia  Gulielmi  Caeci- 
lii,  Baronis  de  Burgthley,  Thefaararii  regis. 

Phillppa  filia,  &  cohseres  Joannis  Domini 
Mohun  de  Dunftcr,  uxor  EdwardiDucis  Ebo* 
racenfis.  Anno  Domini  1434* 

Francifca  ComitifTa  de  Suflex,  ex  antiqua 
Scidneiorum  familia  oriunda. 

Thomas  Bromley  Cancellarius  reginae  Eli- 
fabcthae. 

Comes 


HENTZNER's   Travels. 


27 


The  once  bright  Glory  of  his  Houie,  the  Pride 
Of  all  his  Country,  dufty  Ruins  hide  : 
Mourn,  haplefs  Orphans,  mourn,  once  happy 

Wife, 
For  when  he  dy'd,    dy'd  all  the  Joys  of  Life. 
Pious  and  jufl,  amidfl  a  large  Eftate, 
He  got  at  once  the  Name  of  Good  and  Great. 
He  made  no  flatt'ring  Parafite  his  Gueft, 
But  afk'd  the  good  Companions  to  the  Feaft. 

Anne  Countefs  of  Oxford,  Daughter  of 
V/illiam  Cecil,  Baron  Burleigh,  and  Lord 
Trcafurer, 

Philippa,  Daughter  and  Coheirefs  of  John 
Lord  Mohun  of  Dunftcr,  Wife  of  Edward 
Duke  of  York. 

Frances  Countefs  of  Suflex,  of  the  antient 
Family  of  Sidney. 


Thomas  Bromley,    Chancellor   to   Qiiccn 
Elizabeth* 

The 


28    HENTZNERI  Itinf.rarium. 


Comes  de  Erizevvater,  Dom,  Dabne,  Ca- 
merarius  KenricI  Septimi,  cum  uxore. 

Et  hue  ufque  ^^  Westmonasterio. 

Sunt  h  alia  templa  in  hac  urbe  plurima, 
{c6^  propter  fepulturas,  5:  illuftrium  moiiurnen- 
ta,  non  it.i  celebria, 

Cetemm  {\xh  hoc  Westmunster-Hall 
five  Pr.Ttorium  eft,  in.  quo  praeter  comitia 
Parlamcntaria,  quae  ibi  fepiilime  habentur, 
fora  judiciaria  com1"ituuntur,  &  ftatis  tempo- 
ribvrs  cauffie  cognoicuntur,  ciim  Juris  turn 
patrimonii  regii,  &  etiam  Cancellarias,  qua- 
ex  nequo  h  bono  fummum  Jus  moderatur^ 
cum  ante  Hcnrici  L  tempora,  primae  Juflitis: 
forum  vagum  effet,  aulamque  regiam  comita- 
rctur.  Verum  ille,  ut  m  Charta  Magna 
Iiabetur,  legem  tulit  in  ha^c  verba  ;  Cc?mnuma 
fjJcrcita  noji  fequaniur  Curiam  nojiram^  fed  tenc- 
(iniur  in  aliqito  ccrto  loco.      Hoc  qwod  nunc  eft, 

Prxtorium, 


HENTZNER's    Travels.       28 

*  The  Earl  of  Brlclgcwatcr,  Lord  Dawb- 
ney,  Lord  Chamberlain  to  Henry  VIL  and 
his  Lady. 

And  thus  much  for  WEsrMiKsrv.R^ 

There  are  many  other  Churches  in  this 
city,  but  none  To  remarkable  for  the  tombs  of 
perfons  of  diftinition. 

Near  to  this  church  is  Westminster- 
Hall,  where  befides  the  Seflions  of  Parlia- 
ment, which  are  often  held  there,  are  the 
Courts  of  Juftice  ;  and  at  ftated  times  are 
heard  there  trials  in  Law,  or  concerning  the 
King's  patrimony ;  or  in  Chancery,  which 
moderates  the  feverity  of  the  common  Law 
by  Equity.  Till  the  time  of  Henry  L  the 
prime  court  of  Juftice  was  moveable,  and  fol- 
lowed the  King's  court,  but  he  ena6led  by  the 
Magna  Charta,  That  the  Common  Pleas  JJjould 
no  longer  attend  his  Courts  but  he  held  at  form 
determined  Place.     The  prefent  hall  was  built 

*  Sir  Giles  Dawbney^  ht  was  not  earl  of 
Bridgetvater^  nor  a  lord* 


29     FIENTZNERI   IriNERARidM. 

Prstorium,  Richardus  JL  Anojia?  rex,  diruto 
vctuitiori  extruxit,  fureque  habitationi  dlcavit 
(tunc  enim  reges  ipfi  caufiiis  audiebant  Pala-' 
tiumqiie  ab  Edvvardi  Confcflbris  tempore  ad- 
jiindbam  habuerunt)  quo  ante  fexagHita  annos 
igne  abilimto,  Henricus  VilL  fedem  regi-im, 
ad  aedes  vicinas  non  ita  pHdem  Gardiiialis 
Wolfrci  tranftulit,  quas  Whitehall  vuk'b 
vocant,  id  eft,  aula  alba.  Domus  hnec  eft 
vere  regia,  hinc  -vivario,  quod  &  alteram  re- 
giam  conjungit  S.  James  diciam,  iilinc  Ta- 
iiiifi  ccncliiCa. 

In  Camera,  ubi  Parlamcntum  congregari 
&  haberi  folet,  fdia:  ilf  parietcs  ex  Ugno  Hy- 
hernico  fabrlcati  llint,  quod  occulta  hac  qua- 
litatc  pradituni  effe  dicitur,  ut  kl  omnia  anl- 
malta  venenata  fugiant,  vcl  potlus,  quod  lig- 
num iftud  cuncSta  venenata  ablgat,  h  occulta 
quadam  vi,  a  fe  longe  repellat.  Et  enim  pro 
certo  afHrmatur,  nullos  ferpentes,  nullos  a- 
raneos,  nullaque  alia  venenata,  per  totam 
Hybcrniam  reperiri  animalia. 

Prope 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        25 

by  king  Richard  II.  in  the  place  of  an  ancient 
one  which  he  caufed  to  be  taken  down.  He 
made  it  part  of  his  habitation,  (for  at  that 
time  the  kings  of  England  determined  caufes 
in  their  own  proper  Perfon,  and  from  the 
days  of  Edward  the  ConfefTor,  had  their  pa- 
lace adjoining)  till  above  60  years  fmce,  upon 
it's  being  burnt,  Henry  VIII.  removed  the 
royal  refidence  to  Whitehall,  fituated  In 
the  neighbourhood,  which  a  little  before  was 
the  houfe  of  Cardinal  Wolfey  :  This  palace 
is  truly  Royal  ;  inclofed  on  one  fide  by  the 
Thames,  on  the  other  by  a  Park,  which  con- 
ne6ls  it  with  St.  James's,  another  royal 
palace. 

In  the  Chamber  where  the  Parliament  is 
ufually  held,  the  feats  and  wainfcot  are  made 
-  of  wood,  the  growth  of  Ireland;  faid  to  have 
that  occult  quality,  that  all  poifonous  animals 
are  driven  away  by  it :  And  it  is  affirmed  for 
certain,  that  in  Ireland  there  are  neither 
ferpents,  toads,  nor  any  other  venomous  crea- 
ture to  be  found. 

K  Near 


30    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Prope  has  regias  sedes  Cygni  confpiciun- 
tur  plurimi,  &  fere  innumerabiles,  qui  hinc. 
inde  furfum  &  deorfum,  per  aliquot  milliaria, 
in  Thamefi  fluvio  libere  vagantur;  nemirii 
enim  hos  turbare,  multo  minus  occidere,  fine 
grand!  muldta,  licet. 

In  aula  alba,  Withehall  vulgo  nuncu- 
pata,  vifu  digna  funt  fequentia  : 

I.  Bibliotheca  Reginae,  Graecis,  Latinls, 
Italicis  &  Gallicis  libris  referta,  inter  quos  li- 
bellus  erat  Gallicus,  propria  reginae  Angli^e 
Ellfabethae  adhuc  viventis  manu  in  mem- 
brana  fcriptus,  &  Henrico  VIII.  Angliae  regi 
parenti  fie  dedicatus  : 

A  Trejhaut  ^  Trefpuijfant  &  Redoubt}  Prince 
Henry  VIII*  de  ce  nom^  Roy  d'  Angleterre^  de 
France^  ^  d'  Irelande^  defenfeur  de  la  foy  : 

Elijah  eth  fa  Treshumhle  fille  rend 
Sahit  y  Oheditnci. 

Omnes 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        30 

Near  this  palace  are  fcQn  an  immenfe  num- 
ber of  Swans,  who  wander  up  and  down  the 
river  for  fome  miles,  in  great  fecurity  ;  no 
body  daring  to  moleft,  much  lefs  kill  any  of 
them,  under  penalty  of  a  confiderable  fine. 

In  Whitehall  are  the  following  things 
worthy  of  obfervation  : 

I.  The  Royal  Library,  well  ftored  with 
Greek,  Latin,  Italian  and  French  books : 
Amongft  the  reft,  a  little  one  in  French, 
upon  parchment,  in  the  hand  writing  of  the 
prefent  reigning  queen  Elizabeth,  thus  in- 
fcribed  : 

To  the  mojl  High^  PuiJJant^  and  redoubted 
Prince^  Henry  VIIL  of  the  Name^  King  of 
England^  France  and  Ireland^  Defender  of 
the  Faith  : 

Elizabeth^  his  mojl  humble  Daughter y 
Health  and  Obedience, 

K  %  All 


31     HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

Omnes  ifti  libri,  holoferico  varii  &  diverfi 
colons,  potiflimum  tamen  rubri,  laminis  & 
claufuris  argenteis  ac  aureis,  margaritis  item, 
aliifque  gemmis  preciofis  ornati,  atque  veftiti 
erant. 

II.  Ciftae  duae  five  arculae  argenteae  magna 
arte  elaboratae,  in  quas  regina  papyrum  repo- 
ncrc,  &  iis  ceu  atramentariis,  uti  folet. 

III.  l^horus  reginae  ex  ligno  verficolore  arr 
tificiofiflime  compofitus,  tegumentis  fericis, 
holofericis,  aureis  &  argenteis  acu  pidtis  ditiili- 
m^  inftratus. 

IV.  Cifta,  margaritis  undique  exornata,  in 
quam  armillas  inaures  &  id  genus  alias  res  pre- 
ciofiores,  regina  reponere  folet. 

V.  PafTio  Chrifti,  in  vitreis  tabellis  adum- 

brata. 

VI.  ViSiutXj  inter  quas  vera  reginas  Elifa- 
bethae  imago,     cum  xvi.  annos  nata  effet; 

Henrici, 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       31 

All  thefe  books  are  bound  in  velvet  of  dif- 
ferent colours,  though  chiefly  red,  with  clafps 
of  gold  and  fdver;  fome  have  pearls,  and 
precious  flones,  fet  in  their  bindings. 

II.  Two  little  filver  cabinets  of  exquifite 
work,  in  which  the  Queen  keeps  her  paper, 
and  which  fhe  ufes  for  writing  boxes. 

III.  The  Queen's  bed,  ingenioufly  com- 
pofed  of  woods  of  difFerent  colours,  with 
quilts  of  filk,  velvet,  gold,  filver,  and  em- 
broidery. 

IV.  A  little  cheft  ornamented  all  over  with 
pearls,  in  which  the  Queen  keeps  her  bracelets, 
ear-rings,  and  other  things  of  extraordinary 
value. 

V.  Chrift's  paflion,  in  painted  glafs. 

VI.  Portraits :  Among  which  are  queen 
Elizabeth  at  16  years  old,     Henry,  Richard, 

Edward, 


32    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Henrici,  Richardi,  Edvvardi,  Angliae  regum  ; 
Rofimundae  Anglae,  &  *  Lucretiae  Grascae  fponfae 
in  habitu  nuptiali,  &  aliarum  ;  in  tabella  qua- 
dam  Angliae  regum  genealogia  ;  Edvvardi  VL 
Angliae  regis  efRgies,  primo  intuitu  monftro- 
fum  quid  repraefentans,  fed  fi  quis  per  foramen 
operculi  vel  tabellae,  qua  pi6tura  tegitur,  eiH- 
giem  re6i:a  iiitueatur,  tum  vera  depraehenditur ; 
ingeniofum  artificis  inventum ;  Caroli  V.  Rom. 
Imperatoris  ;  Caroli  Emanuelis  Sabaudia^  Du- 
cis,  &  Catharinae  Hifpaniae  conjugis  ipfius  ; 
Ferdinandi  Florentiae  Ducis  cum  filiabus ; 
Philippi  regis  Hifpaniae,  cum  veniret  in  Ang- 
Jiam,  5c  matrimonio  fibi  jungeret  Mariam 
Angliae  reginam  ;  Henrici  VII.  Hehrici  VIII. 
matris  ejufdem,  item  aliorum,  aliarumque  il- 
luftrium  imagines  quam  plurimae ;  picSlura  ob- 
fidionis  infulae  Melites,  five  Malthas. 

VIT.  JEdlcuh  cujufdam  Eremitae,  elegan- 
tifTime  ex  ligno  fculpta,  inter  faxa  quafi  delite- 
fcentis. 

VIII.  Emblemata  varia  papyracea,  clypei 
forma m  habentia,    quibus^    adje\Sis   fymbolis 

*  This  ynujl  he  a  blunder, 

Nobiles 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        32 

Edward,  kings  of  England ;  Rofamond ; 
Lucrece,  a  Grecian  bride,  in  her  nuptial  habit ; 
the  genealogy  of  the  kings  of  England ;  a 
picture  of  king  Edward  VI.  reprefenting  at 
firft  fight  fomething  quite  deformed,  till  by 
looking  through  a  fmall  hole  in  the  cover, 
which  is  put  over  it,  you  fee  it  in  it's  true 
proportions  ;  Charles  V.  Emperor ;  Charles 
Emanuel  Duke  of  Savoy,  and  Catherine  of 
Spain,  his  wife ;  Ferdinand  Duke  of  Flo- 
rence, with  his  daughters  ;  one ,  of  Philip 
king  of  Spain,  when  he  came  into  England 
and  married  Mary  ;  Henry  VII.  Henry  VIII. 
and  his  mother  :  Befides  many  more  of  illuf- 
trious  men  and  women ;  and  a  picture  of  the 
fiege  of  Malta* 

VIL  A  fmall  Hermitage,  half  hid  in  a  rock, 
finely  carved  in  wood. 

VIIL  Variety  of  emblems,  on  paper,  cut 
in  the  fhape  of  fhields,  with  mottoes,  ufed 
by  the  nobility  at  tilts  and  tournaments,  hung 
up  here  for  a  memorial. 

IX. 


33    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

Nobiles  in  exercitiis  equeftribus  &  gladiatoriis 
uti  funt  foliti,  hie  memoriae  caufsa  fufpenfa. 

IX.  Varia  inftrumenta  mufica,  &  inter  ea 
unum,  in  quo  duo  fimul  &  una  vice  ludere 
pofTunt. 

X.  Machina  horaria,  in  qua  Rhinoceros 
cum  ^thiope  ei  infidente  confpicitur,  quatuor 
aliis  veluti  miniftris  ad  latera  aftantibus,  rcgem- 
que  portantibus,  ac  ad  noire  fonitum  capita 
infleftentibus  ;  haec  omnia  moventur  ubi  rotae 
intenduntur. 

Porro  in  adjuncfti  huic.  Aulae  Vivarii  introi- 
tu,  talis  legitur  infcriptio  : 

ISfiis  pifcator  tandem  faptt^ 
Sed  infelix  A5iccon  fcmpcr  praceps. 

Cajia  Virgo  facile  miferetur  ; 

Sed  potens  Dea  fcelus  ulcifciUir, 

Prada  cantbus^  exemplum  JuvenibuSj 

fiiis  dedecus^  peredt  ASiaon, 

Cura  co?lit!buSy  chara  mortalihus^  Juts  fecuritds^ 

Vivat  Diana, 

In 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        33 

IX.  Different  inftruments  of  mufic,  upon 
one  of  which  two  perfons  may  perform  at 
the  fame  time. 

X.  A  piece  of  clock-work,  an  ^thiop 
riding  upon  a  Rhinoceros,  with  four  atten- 
dants, who  all  make  their  obeifance,  when  it 
ftrikes  the  hour  ;  thefe  are  all  put  into  motion 
by  winding  up  the  machine. 

At  the  entrance  into  the  Park  from  White- 
hall is  this  infcription ; 

*  The  Fijherman  who  has  been  wounded^  learns 

though   late  to   beware ; 

But  the  unfortunate  ASieson  always  preffes  on^ 

The   chafte  Virgin  naturally  pitied: 

But  the  powerful  Goddefs  revenged  the  wrongs 

Let  A^lteon  fall  a  prey  to  his  DogSy 

An  Example  to  Touth^ 

A  difgrace  to  thofe  that  belong  to  him  ! 

May   Diana    live    the    care  of   Heaven ; 

The  delight  of  Mortals  ; 
The  fecurity  of  thofe  that  belong  to  Her  ! 

*  This  romantic  infcription  probably  alluded 
to  Philip  II.  who  woed  the  Queen  after  her 
fifter's  death  ;  and  to  the  deftrudion  of  his 
Armada.  L  lu 


34    HENTZNERI   Itinerarii;m. 

In  vivario  videntur  damae,   magno  numero. 

In  alio  quodam  horto,  hulc  arci  contiguo, 
eft  fons  falientis  aqu.e,  cum  horologio  folari, 
quod  dum  peregre  advenientes  contemplantur, 
aqua  ex  fiftulis  copiose  erumpit,  &  circum- 
ftantes  largiflime  afpergit,  hortulano  a  longin- 
quo  rotam  quandam  circumagente,  qua  aqua 
ifta  propellitur. 

Domus  Senatoria  vel  publica  quae  GuiL- 
THAL  vulgo  vocatur,  a  Thoma  Knovvles  pul- 
cherrime  conftruvSa  eft,  in  qua  duorum  Gy- 
gantum  ftatuae  videntur,  qui  Anglis  auxilio 
fuIlTe  dicuntur,  cum  Roman!  eos  bello  perfe- 
querentur ;  iftorum  nomina  funt,  Corinius 
Britannus,  Goemagott  Albionus.  Subeft  in 
tabula  quadam  titulus  Caroli  V,  Imperatoris, 
aurejs  Uteris  fcriptus. 

Status  Relpublicae  in  hac  urbe  eft  talis  ; 
urbs  ipfa  in  xxv.  reglones  feuTribus  divifa  eft ; 
^ronciliumque  reipub.  penes  xxiv.  fenes  confti- 
tutum,  qui  ab  astate,  lingua  vulgari  Alterman» 
id  eft,  fenatores  appellantur^  quorum  finguli 

fingulis 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        34 

In  this  Park  is  great  plenty  of  Deer. 

In  a  garden  joining  to  this  palace,  there  is 
a  Jet  d'eau,  with  a  fun-dial,  which  while 
ftrangers  are  looking  at,  a  quantity  of  water, 
forced  by  a  wheel,  which  the  gardiner  turns 
at  a  diftance,  through  a  number  of  little  pipes, 
plentifully  fprinkles  thofe  that  are  ftanding 
round. 

Guild-Hall,  a  fine  ftrufture,  built  by 
Thomas  Knowles  :  Here  are  to  be  ken  the 
ftatues  of  two  Giants,  faid  to  have  aflifted 
the  Englifti  when  the  Romans  made  war 
upon  them ;  Corinius  of  Britain,  and  Gog- 
magog  of  Albion,  Beneath  upon  a  table  the 
titles  of  Charles  V.  Emperor  are  written  in 
letters  of  gold. 

The  government  of  London  is  this  :  The 
city  is  divided  into  25  Regions,  or  Wards ; 
the  council  is  compofed  of  24  Aldermen,  one 
of  which  prefides  over  every  Ward.  And 
whereas  of  old,  the  chief  magiftrate,  was  a 
Portreve,  /.  e.  Governor  of  the  city :  Richard  I. 
appointed  two  Bailiffs  5  inftead  of  which, 
h  %  king 


2S    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

fingulis  Tribubus  praefunt ;  et  cum  antiquitus 
pro  fummo  Magiftratu  Porgreve,  id  eft,  urbis 
praefedum  habuiflcnt,  duos  Ballivos  Rich- 
ard us  I.  inftituit,  pro  qui  bus  Joannes  rex,  ut 
Majorem  five  Praetorem  annuum  Magiftratum, 
fuis  fufFragiis  e  XII.  primariis  corporibus  eli- 
gerent  voluit,  duofque  Vicecomites,  Schirifs 
vulgo  nuncupatos,  quorum  alter  regius,  ur- 
banus  alter  dicitur,  nominarent.  Atqye  hac 
Reip.  forma  conftituta,  incredibile  eft,  quan- 
tum publicis  privatifque  operibus  ha^^enus  urbs 
haec  creverit.  GulieL  Carnhden  In  Britannia 
fub  tit,  Midlefex. 

Ceterum  notatu  dignum  hlc  eft,  quod  Ma- 
jor five  Praetor  hujus  loci  quotannis  die  Bar- 
tholomasi  Apoftoli,  quo  nundinrc  &  encct^nia 
habentur,  cam  xii.  primariis  fejiatoribus^  in 
campum  vicinum  folet  exfpatiari,  toga  purpu- 
rea ami6lus,  &  catena  aurea  cui  appenfa  finit 
infignia  in  formam  aurei  Vclleris,  cin<Sus, 
ornatus  infijper  infigni  Perifcelidis  ordinis  or- 
namento,  quo  quilibct  in  hac  dignitatc  con- 
ftitutus  dccor^tur  k  to  to  Magiftratus  annui 

tempore 


HENTZNER's    Travels.        35 

king  John  gave  a  power  by  grant,  of  chufing 
annually  a  Mayor,  from  any  of  the  twelve 
principal  Companies,  and  to  name  two 
Sheriffs,  one  of  which  to  be  called  the 
King's,  the  other,  the  City's.  It  is  fcarce 
credible  how  this  city  encreafed,  both  in  pub- 
lic and  private  buildings,  upon  eftablifhing 
this  form  of  government.  Vide  Camhdcris 
Britan,  Middlefex. 

It  is  worthy  of  obfervation,  that  every  year 
upon  St.  Bartholemew's  day,  when  the  Eair 
is  held,  it  is  ufual  for  the  Mayor,  attended  by 
the  12  principal  Aldermen,  to  walk  in  a  neigh- 
bouring field,  dreffed  in  his  fcarlet  gown,  and 
about  his  neck  a  golden  chain,  to  which  is 
hung  a  *  Golden  Fleece,  and  befides,  that 
t  particular  ornament,  which  diftinguifhes  the 
moft  noble  Order  of  the  Garter.  During 
the  year  of  his  Magiftracy,  he  is  obliged  to 
live  fo  magnificently,  that  Foreigner  or  Na^ 

*  This  probably  alluded  to  the  woollen  inanvfac- 
ture  j  Stow  7nentions  his  riding  through  the  Cloth 
Fair^  on  the  Eve  of  St.  Bartholemew^  p.  65 1 . 

t  The  Collar  of  SS,  tive, 


36    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

tempore  ita  magnificum  fe  exhibere   cogitur, 
ut  quibufvis  &  incolis  &  peregrinis,  ad  men- 
fam  ejus,  variis  epulis  inftru6lifrimam,  modo 
vacet  locus,     abfque   ulla  impensa   accedere 
quotidie  liberum  fit.      Exeunti  extra  urbem 
praefertur   fceptrum,     gladlus  &   pileus ;    fe- 
quuntur  primarii  Senatores,    omnes   equltes, 
licut  &  ipfe  Major,  rubris  togis  veftiti,  &  ca- 
tenis  aureis  cinfti ;  ubi  ad  locum  deftinatum, 
&  tentorium  ibidem  ereftum,  ventum  eft,  qui- 
dam  ex  plebe  prodeunt  &  luftando  bini  ac 
bini  fe  exercent ;  vi^tores  a  Magiftratu  prae- 
mia  acclpiunt ;  dimittuntur  poftea  in  circum- 
fufam    &     promifcuam    multitudinem    cuni- 
culi  vivi,  quos  pueri  magno  clamore  infeftan- 
tur.     Huic  fpeftaculo  cum  intereflemus,    qui- 
dam  forte  ex  noftro  com  ita  tu,  Thobias  Salan- 
der  nomine,  medicinae  Do(3or,  crumenam  cum 
IX.   coronatis  folaribus  amifit,    quam  procul 
dubio  lateri  ejus  femper  adhaerens  Anglus  ita 
ingeniose    fubtraxerat,  ut  Salander  ne  mini- 
mum quidem  perfentifcerct. 

Aix 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        36 

tive,  without  any  expence,  is  free,  if  he  can 
find  a  chair  empty,  to  dine  at  his  table, 
where  there  is  always  the  greateft  plenty. 
When  the  Mayor  goes  out  of  the  precin6ts 
of  the  city,  a  fcepter,  a  fword,  and  a  cap, 
are  born  before  him,  and  he  is  followed  by 
the  principal  Aldermen  in  fcarlet  gowns, 
with  gold  chains  ;  himfelf  and  they  on  horfe- 
back  :  Upon  their  arrival  at  a  place  appoint- 
ed for  that  purpofe,  where  a  tent  is  pitched, 
the  mob  begin  to  wreftle  before  them,  two  at 
a  time  ;  the  conquerors  receive  rewards  from 
the  Magiftrates.  After  this  is  over,  a  parcel 
of  live  Rabits  are  turned  loofe  among  the 
crowd,  which  are  purfued  by  a  number  of 
boys,  who  endeavour  to  catch  them,  with 
all  the  noife  they  can  make.  While  we  were 
at  this  fhew,  one  of  our  company,  Thobias 
Salander,  Dodor  of  Phyfic,  had  his  pocket 
picked  of  his  purfe,  with  nine  crowns  du  foleil, 
which  without  doubt  was  fo  cleverly  taken 
from  him,  by  an  Englifhman  who  always, 
kept  very  clofe  to  him,  that  the  Doctor  did  not 
in  the  leaft  perceive  it. 

The 


2^    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 


Arx  five  TuRRis  LoNDiNENSis,  Britan- 
nice  ab  albedine  Bringwin  &  Tourgwin, 
apellata,  fofsa  admodum  profunda  &  lata,  ac 
muro  duplici  &  alto  probe  cincSta  eft,  in  hujus 
centro,  Turris  ilia  antiquiflima  &  fortiflima, 
quatuor  aliis  turribus  inclufa,  &  a  Julio 
Caefare  quorundam  opinione  condita,  cerni- 
tur.  Hanc  arcem  cum  ingrederemur,  glaJil 
ad  portam  deponendi,  &  fatellitibus  tradendi 
eraiit.  Poftea  a  quodam  introduvSli,  mon- 
ftrabantur  nobis  tapetia  regia  ultra  centum, 
a  urea,  argentea,  &  ferica  \  fellae  regiae  ho- 
loferico  varii  coloris  coopertae,  magnus  lecSlif- 
terniorum  apparatus,  veluti  conopcea,  &  id 
genus  alia  margaritis  ditiflime  exornata,  turn 
veftimenta  regia  magnificentifHma,  quae  omnia 
propter  impenfas  maximas  facile  quemvis  in 
fui  admirationem  trahere  poterant.  Inde  in 
Armamentarium  ducli ;  in  quo  hsec  peculia- 
ria  ;  haftae  ex  quibus  ejaculatur  ;  hafta^  alias 
multae,  &  fplendidx,  quas  partifan  vulgo  ap- 
pellant, &  quibus  ad  defenfionem  regii  cor- 
poris in  bello  fatellites  utuntur  ;   lanceae  holo- 

ferico 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        37 

The  Castle,  or  Tower  of  London, 
called  Bringwin,  and  Tourgwin,  in 
Welch,  from  it's  whitenefs,  is  encompafTed 
by  a  very  deep  and  broad  ditch,  as  well  as  a 
double  wall  very  high.  In  the  middle  of  the 
whole  is  that  very  antient  and  very  ftrong 
Tower,  enclofed  with  four  others,  which  in 
the  opinion  of  fome,  was  built  by  Julius 
Caefar.  Upon  entering  the  Tower,  we  were 
obliged  to  quit  our  fwords  at  the  gate,  and 
deliver  them  to  the  guard.  V/hen  we  were 
introduced,  w^e  were  fhewn  above  a  hundred 
pieces  of  arras  belonging  to  the  crown,  made 
of  gold,  filver,  and  filk  ;  feveral  faddles  cover- 
ed with  velvet  of  different  colours ;  an  im- 
menfe  quantity  of  bed-furniture,  fuch  as  cano- 
pies, and  the  like,  fome  of  them  moft  richly 
ornamented  with  pearl  ;  fome  royal  drefles, 
fo  extremely  magnificent,  as  to  raife  any  one's 
admiration  at  the  fums  they  muft  have  cofl*. 
We  were  next  led  into  the  Armoury,  in  which 
are  thefe  particularities  :  Spears,  out  of  which 
you  may  fhoot ;  fhields,  that  will  give  fire  four 
times  ;  a  great  many  rich  halberds,  coihmon- 
M  ly 


I 


38    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

ferico  rubro,  &  viridi  teniae,  cum  Henrici 
VIII.  Anglise  regis  armatura ;  arma  multa^ 
ac  egregia,  tarn  pro  viris,  quam  pro  equis  in 
equefiri  pugna  ;  lancea  Caroli  Brandeii  Suffol- 
ciae,  quae  trcs  fpithamos  crafTa  erat ;  tormenta 
duo,  ex  quorum  altero  tres,  ex  altero  feptem 
globi  pofTunt  explodi ;  duo  tormenta  lignea 
magnitudinis  immenfae,  quibus  Angli  in  op- 
pugnatione  Boloniae,  Gallise  oppidi,  aliquan- 
do  funt  ufi ;  quo  ftratagemate,  cum  alias  im- 
poflibile  fuiflet,  cum  ejufcemodi  tormentis  ap- 
propinquare  ad  oppidum,  Bolonienfes  territi, 
fefe  Tub  certis  conditionibus  dediderunt ;  xix, 
tormenta  crafliora ;  &  xxxvi.  quodam  modo 
minora,  erant  in  camera  peculiar! ;  alia  item 
tormenta,  ex  quibus  catenas,  globulique  fran- 
gendis  navium  malis  apti  exploduntur.  Ba- 
liftae,  arcus,  fagittae,  quibus  etiamnum  hodie 
in  exercitiis  uti  folent  Angli  magno  numero  : 
Et  quis  omnia  referre  queat  ?  Expolitioni  au- 
tem  rerum  harum  bellicarum  omnium,  vix  ofto 
vel  novem  viri  quotannis  fufficiunt. 

Officina 


HENTZNER's    Travels.        38 

ly  called  partuifans,  with  which  the  guard  de- 
fend the  Royal  perfon  in  battle  ;    fome  lances, 
covered  with  red  and  green  velvet,  and  the 
body-armour  of   Henry  VIII.  ;    many,    and 
very  beautiful  arms,  as  well  for  men,  as  for 
horfes  in  horfe-fights ;  the  lance  of  Charles 
Brandon  Duke  of  Suffolk,  three  fpans  thick  ; 
two   pieces   of  canon,    the  one   fires   three, 
the  other  {even   balls  at  a  time  ;  two  others 
made  of  wood,  which  the  Englifh  had  at  the 
feige  of  Boulogne,    in  France,  and   by  this 
{tratagem,  without  which  they  could  not  have 
fucceeded,  they  ftruck  a  terror  into  the  inhabi- 
tants, as  at  the   appearance  of  artillery,  and 
the  town  was  furrendered  upon  articles ;    19 
canon,  of  a  thicker  make  than  ordinary,  and 
in   a  room  apart ;    36   of  a  fmaller  ;    other 
canon  for  chain-ftiot  ;    and  balls    proper  to 
■bring  down  mafts    of     fhips.      Crofs-bows, 
bows  and  arrows,  of  which   to  this   day  the 
Englifh  make  great  ufe  in  their  exercifes  :  But 
who  can  relate  all   that  is  to  be  feen  here  ? 
Eight  or  nine  men,  employed  by  the  year,  arc 
fcarce  fufficient  to  keep  all  the  arms  bright. 

M  2  The 


39    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium, 

Oificlna  praeterea  eft  in  hac  arce  monetaria, 
cudendis  regiis  nummis  occupata. 

N.  B.  Notandum  hie,  quod  fi  quis  ex  illuf- 
triore  familia  facinus  aliquod  magnum  perpe- 
tret  morte  dignum,  crimen  nimirum  laefae  ma- 
jeftatis,  aut  fimile  quid,  is  huic  arci  includitur, 
&  rariiT^mum  eft,  ut  inde  liberetur, .  &  falvus 
dimittatur,  Hie  decapitata  fuit  Anna  Bolenia 
Henrici  VIII,  Angliae  regis  conjiinx,  ibidem- 
que  in  Sacello  fepulta,  fed  abfque  infcriptione  : 
Regina  quoquc  Elifabetha  in  hoc  ergaftulo 
captiya  fuit  detenta  a  forore  Maria  Angliae 
regina,  qua  tandem  vita  defunfta,  inde  libera- 
ta,  atque  ad  regnj  gubernatipnerp  legitime  fuit 
evocati;, 

Egreili  ex  hac  arcc  in  domunculam  propin- 
quam  concefiimus,  in  qua  diverfi  generis  alun- 
tur  animalia,  tres  videlicet  Lenenae,  &  Leo 
unus  ingentis  miignitudlnis,  quern  Edvvardum 
fextum  vocitant,  CO  quod  regis  iftius  tempore 
natus  hie  fit,  Tigris,  Lynx,  Lupus,  valde  anno- 
fus,  quod  rarinimum  in  Anglia  animal,  unde 

etiam 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       39 

The  Mint  for  coining  money  is  in  the 
Tower. 

N,  B.  It  is  to  be  noted,  that  when  any  of 
the  nobility  are  fent  hither,  on  the  charge  of 
high  crimes,  punifhable  with  death,  fuch  as 
treafon,  ^c,  they  feldom  or  never  recover 
their  liberty.  Here  was  beheaded  Anna 
Bolen,  wife  of  king  Henry  VIII.  and  lies 
buried  in  the  Chapel,  but  without  any  infcrip- 
tion  :  And  queen  Elizabeth  was  kept  prifoner 
here  by  her  fifter  queen  Mary,  at  whofe 
death  fhe  was  enlarged,  and  by  right  called  to 
the  throne. 

On  coming  out  of  the  Tower,  we  were 
led  to  a  fmall  houfe  clofe  by,  where  are  kept 
variety  of  creatures,  viz,  three  Lioneffes,  one 
Lion  of  great  fize,  called  Edward  VI.  from 
his  having  been  born  in  that  reign  ;  a  Tyger, 
a  Lynx ;  a  Wolf,  exceflively  old ;  this  is  a 
very  fcarce  animal  in  England,  fo  that  their 
fheep  and  cattle  ftray  about  in  great  numbers, 
free  from  any  danger,    though  without  any 

body 


40     HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

etiam  numerofi  ovium  greges  &  armenta  hinc 
inde  abfque  cuftodibus  impune  oberrant ;  item 
Hiftrix,  Aquila  :  Atque  haec  animalia  omnia 
in  loco  remotiori,  &  ad  banc  rem  defignato, 
clathris  ligneis  circumfepta,  Reginae  fumptibu* 
aluntur. 

Prope  banc  arcem,  area  eft  fatis  ampla,  in 
cujus  eminentiore  loco  contabulatio  lignea 
ere*£la  eft,  fuppliciis  illuftrium  deftinata,  fuper 
qua  tres  Angliae  principes,  fuae  familas  ultimos, 
Isefa^  majeflatis  reos,  decollatos  efle  fertur  :  In 
ripa  Tbamcfis  fluvii  huic  arci  contigua,  pluri- 
ma  videntur  tormenta,  &  aenea,  &  ferrea, 
quorum  praecipuus  in  mari  eft  ufus. 

Vifu  deinde  &  notatu  dignum  quoque  eft  in 
hac  urbe  periftylium  five  Janum  medium, 
Burfam  vulgus,  regina  Elifabetha  Excambi- 
UM  Regium  dixit,  ad  negotiatorum  ufum  & 
urbis  ornamentum,  a  Thoma  Grefbamo  Eque- 
Uris  ordinis  cive  pofitum ;  magnificam  illud 
quidem,  five  sedificii  ftru£!:uram,  five  gentium 
frcquentiam,  five  mercium  copiam  fpc6les  ;  ut 
etiam  Hanfiaticae  Societatis  domum  omittam, 
&  aquas,  fubterraneis  cimiculis,  &  fypbonibus, 

in 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       40 

body  to  keep  them  ;  there  ia  befidcs,  a  Porcu- 
pine, and  an  Eagle  :  All  thefe  creatures  are 
kept  in  a  remote  place,  fitted  up  for  the  pur- 
pofe  with  wooden  lattices,  at  the  Qiieen's 
expence. 

Near  to  this  Tower,  is  a  large  open  fpace, 
on  the  higheft  part  of  it  is  ere6ted  a  wooden 
fcafFold,  for  the  execution  of  noble  criminals  5 
upon  which  they  fay,  three  princes  of  Eng- 
land, the  laft  of  their  families,  have  been  be- 
headed for  high  treafon  :  On  the  bank  of  the 
Thames  clofe  by,  are  a  great  many  canon, 
fuch  chiefly  as  are  ufed  at  fea. 

The  next  thing  worthy  of  note,  is  the 
Royal  Exchange,  (o  named  by  queen 
Elizabeth,  built  by  Sir  Thomas  Grefham, 
Citizen,  for  public  ornament,  and  the  con- 
venience of  merchants.  It  has  a  great  efFe<3:, 
whether  you  confider  the  ftatelinefs  of  the 
building,  the  aflemblage  of  different  nations, 
or  the  quantities  of  merchandife.  I  fhall  fay 
nothing  of  the   hall  belonging  to  the  Hans 

Society  ; 


41     HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

in  omnes  urbis  regiones  derivatas,  illifque  re- 
cipicndis  elegantiilima  caftella  feu  labra  ;  no- 
vum etiam  aquedu6lum,  quo  hydragogi  Ger- 
man! folers  induftria,  rota  e  Thamefi  aquas 
in  magnam  urbis  partem,  tubulis  certo  libra- 
mine  difpofitis,  ante  paucos  annos  deduxit. 

Britwel,  Corre6tionis domus  hodie,  quon- 
dam in  Caroli  V.  Rom.  Imperatoris  gratiam, 
intra  fpatium  fex  hebdomadarum  extrudla. 

Ah  ALL,  domus  a  Sutore  quodam  aedifica- 
ta,  Reip.  Londinenfi  deftinata,  in  qua  fmgulis 
feptimanis  ter  venduntur  merces  variae,  ut 
pote  frumentum,  lana,  panni,  frudus,  &  alia. 

Sunt  porro  Londini  extra  urbem  Thea- 
TRA  aliquot,  in  quibus  Hiftriones  Angli  Co- 
mcedias  Sc  Tragoedias  fmgulis  fere  diebus,  in 
magna  hominum  frequentia  agunt,  quas  va- 
riis  etiam  faltationibus,  fuaviilima  adhibita 
mufica,  magno  cum  populi  applaufu  fin  ire 
folcnt. 

Non  lon^e  ab  uno  horum  theatrorum, 
quae  omnia  lignea  funt,  ad  Thamefim  Navis 

eft 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       41 

SpGiety  5  or  of  the  conveyance  of  water  to 
all  parts  of  the  town  by  fubterranncous 
pipes,  nor  the  beautiful  conduits  and  ciilerns 
for  the  reception  of  it ;  nor  of  the  rifing  of 
water  out  of  the  Thames  by  a  wheel,  in- 
vented a  few  years  fince  by  a  German. 

BjRiDEWELL,  at  prefent  the  Houfe  of 
Correftion :  It  was  built  in  fix  weeks  for 
the  reception  of  the  Emperor  Charles  V. 

A  Hall,  built  by  a  Cobler,  and  beftowed 
on  the  city,  where  are  expofed  to  fale  three 
times  in  a  week,  corn,  wool,  cloth,  fruits, 
and  the  like. 

Without  the  city  are  fome  Theatres, 
ivhere  Englifh  Actors  reprefent  almoft 
every  day  Tragedies  and  Comedies  to  very 
numerous  audiences  ;  thefe  are  concluded 
with  excellent  mufic,  variety  of  dances,  and 
the  exceflive  applaufe  of  thofe  that  are 
prefent. 

Noitf^r  frpm  c>ne  of  thefe  Theatres,  which 

.are  all  built  of  wood,  lies  the  Royal  Barge, 

N  clofe 


4ii    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

feft  Rcgia,  qu^  duo  egfegla  habet  conclavi^^ 
feneftris  pellucidls,  plcluris  &  fculpturis  elegan- 
ter  exornata,  in  ficco  &  quidem  fub  tedlo  col- 
locata,  propterea  ut  a  pluviis  &  coeli  inju- 
ria immunis  fit* 

Eft  &  alius  poftea  locus  Theatri  quoque  for- 
mam  habens,  Urfdrum  &  Taurorum  vena- 
tionibus  deftinatus,  qui  a  poftica  parte  alligati 
a  magnis  illis  canibus  &  moloffis  Anglici^, 
quos  lingua  vernacula  doften  appellant,  mire 
exagitantur,  ita  tamen,  ut  faepe  canes  ifti  ab 
Urfis  vel  Tauris  dentibus  arrepti,  vel  corni- 
bus  impetiti,  de  vita  periclitari,  aliquando 
etiam  animam  exhalare  ibleant,  quibus  fic  vel 
lailis  ftatim  fubftituuntur  alii  recentes  &  magis 
alacres.  Accedit  aliquando  in  fine  hujus 
fpe^laculi  Urfi  plane  excaecati  flagellatio, 
ubi  quinque  vel  fex,  in  circulo  conftituti,  Ur- 
fiim  flagellis  mifere  excipiunt,  qui  licet  alliga- 
tus  aufugere  nequeat,  alacriter  tamen  fe  de-* 
fend  it,  circumftantes,  &  nimium  appropin- 
quantes,  nifi  re6le  &  provide  fibi  caveant, 
profternit,  ac  flagella  e  manibus  csedentium 
cripit  atque  confringit»     Utuntur  in  hifce  fpec- 

UcuJis 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        42 

clofe  to  the  river  ;  it  has  two  fplendid  cabbins, 
beautifully  ornamented  with  glafs  windows, 
painting  and  gilding  ;  it  is  kept  upon  dry 
ground,  and  {heltered  from  the  v/eather. 

There  is  ftill  another  place,  built  in  the 
form  of  a  Theatre,  which  ferves  for  the  bait- 
ing of  Bulls  and  Bears,  they  are  faftened  be- 
hind, and  then  worried  by  great  Englifh  bull- 
dogs ;  but  not  without  great  rifque  to  the 
dogs,  from  the  horns  of  the  one,  and  the 
teeth  of  the  other  ;  and  it  fometimes  happens 
they  are  killed  upon  the  fpot  5  frefli  ones  are 
immediately  fupplied  in  the  places  of  thofe 
that  are  wounded,  or  tired.  To  this  enter- 
tainment, there  often  follows  that  of  whip- 
ping a  blinded  Bear,  which  is  performed  by 
five  or  fix  men,  (landing  circularly  with  whips, 
which  they  exercife  upon  him  without  any 
mercy,  as  he  cannot  efcape  from  them  be- 
caufe  of  his  chain  ;  he  defends  himfelf  with 
all  his  force  and  (kill,  throwing  down  all  who 
come  within  his  reach,  and  are  not  a£live 
enough  to  get  out  of  it,  and  tearing  the 
N  2  whi|)^ 


43    HENTZNERI  Itinf.rarium. 

taculis  ficut  &  alibi,  ubicunque  locorum  fint 
Angli,  herba  nieotiana,  quam  Americano 
idiomate  Tobaca  nuncupant  (Paetum  alii  di- 
cunt)  hoe  modo  frequentiffime ;  fiftulae  m 
hunc  finem  ex  argilla  fa6tae,  orificio  pofteriori 
dictam  herbam  probe  exficcatam,  ita  ut  in  pul- 
verem  facile  redigi  poflit,  immittunt,  &  igne 
admoto  accenduiit,  unde  fumus  ab  anterior! 
parte  ore  attrahitur,  qui  per  nares  rurfufn, 
tanquam  per  infumibulum  exit,  &  phlegma 
ac  capitis  defluxiones  magna  copia  Tecum  edu- 
cit.  Circumferuntur  infuper  in  hifce  theatris 
varii  fru(5lus  venales,  ut  poma,  pyra,  nuces  & 
pro  ratione  temporis,  etiam  vinum  &  cerevifia. 

Collegia  intra  &  extra  urbem  quinde^ 
cim  hie  numerantur,  magnifies  ItrucSlurje,  ad- 
jtin(51tis  ubique  hortis  amdenilTimis,  quorum 
praecipua  (init  tec  tria  : 

I.  Templum,  vulgo  Te-mpel,  in  quo 
olirri  Templarii,  di6lum,  uti  videtur,  c  tem- 
plo  antkjuiiilmo,  cui  Tunis  rotunda   addita^ 

fub 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       43 

whips  out  of  their  hands,  and  breaking 
them.  At  thefe  fpe6lacles,  and  every  where 
elfe,  the  Englifh  are  conftantly  fmoaking 
Tobacco,  and  in  this  manner ;  they  have 
pipes  on  purpofe  made  of  clay,  into  the  far- 
ther end  of  which  they  put  the  herb,  fo  dry 
that  it  may  be  rubbed  into  powder,  and  put- 
ting fire  to  it,  they  draw  the  fmoak  into  their 
mouths,  which  they  pufF  out  again,  through 
their  noftrils,  like  funnels,  along  with  it 
plenty  of  phlegm  and  defluxion  from  the  head. 
In  thefe  theatres  fruits,  fuch  as  apples,  pears 
and  nuts,  according  to  the  feafon,  are  carried 
about  to  be  fold,  as  well  as  ale  and  wine. 

There  are  fifteen  Colleges,  within  and 
without  the  city,  nobly  built,  with  beautiful 
gardens  adjoining.  Of  thefe  the  three  prin- 
cipal are  : 

I.  The  Temple,    inhabited  formerly  by 
the   Knights   Templars  :     It  feems  to  have 
I       taken  it's  name   from  the  old  Temple,    or 
Church,  which  has  a  round  Tower  added  to 

it. 


44    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Ibb  qua  eft  fepultura  regum  Danorum,  qui 
olim  in  Anglia  regnarunt. 

II.  Grezin*  & 

III.  Lyconsin. 

In  hlfce  Collcgiis  aluntur  adolefcentes  & 
nobiles  &  plebeii  magno  numero,  philofophiae, 
theologiae,  &me(licinae  potiflimum  operam  dan- 
tes,  (pauciflimi  enim  ad  ftudium  juris  animum 
adjiciunt)  laute  vivunt,  &  poculis  argenteis 
utuntur.  Quod  cum  aliquando  illuftris  qui- 
dam  vir  viJiflet,  admirans  magnum  pocu- 
lorum  argenteorum  numerum,  in  haec  ver- 
ba prorupifle  fertur :  *^  Convenire  potius 
*'  Scholaftlcis  ex  teftaceis  &  vitreis  quant 
'^  argenteis  vafculls  bibere."  Refponfum  ei 
a  Collegio :  ^'  Se  omnia  fua  pocula  ipfi 
*^  velle  tradere,  fi  conditionem  accipiat,  & 
'^  vicifTim  fibi  de  teftaceis  &  vitreis  vafculis 
*'  fufficientcr  profpiciat ;  frequentiflimam  enim 
*'  horuni  confradionem  pofle  fortaffis  ali- 
"  quando  longe  fuperare  jeftimationem  argen- 
^'  teoruni." 

Plateas 


KENTZNER^s  Travels.        44 

It,    under  which    lie    buried  thofe  kings  of 
Denmark,    that  reigned  in  England. 

II.  Grays-Inn.     And     ^ 

III.  Lincolns-Inn. 

In   thefe  Colleges    numbers  of  the  young 

nobility,    gentry,    and  others,    are  educated, 

and  cheifly  in  the  ftudy  of  phyfic,  for  very  few 

apply  themfelves  to  that  of  the  law :   They 

are  allowed  a  very  good  table,  and  filver  cups 

to  drink    out  off.      Once    a  perfon  of   dif- 

tinftion,  who  could  not  help  being   furprized 

at   the  great   number  of  cups,    faid,    ''  He 

*'  fliould  have  thought  it  more  fuitable  to  the 

*^  life  of  Students,    if   they  had  ufed  rather 

<'  glafs,  or  earthen-ware,  than  filver."     The 

College  anfwered,    <'  They  were   ready    to 

'«  make  him  a  prefent  of  all  their  plate,  pro- 

*'  vided  he  would  undertake  to  fupply  them 

"  with  all  the  glafs,  and  earthen-ware,  they 

*<  fhould  have  a  demand    for;  fince  it  was 

<^  very  likely    he    would  find   the    expence, 

"  from  confl-ant  breaking,  exceed  the  value 

''  of  the  filver.'' 

The. 


45    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Plateas  habet  urbs  ifta  nitidas  &  mundas  ; 
prae  reliquis  tamen  exccllit,  quae  ab  aurifabris 
nomen  hab^tj'lin  hac  turris  deaurata  cerni- 
tur,  cum  fonte  falientis  aquae,  cui  adjed:ae 
funt  ab  altero  latere  aedes  fatis  fplendidae,  ab 
aurifabro  quodam  olim  conftruftae,  &  reipub. 
donatae  ;  videntur  praeterea  in  hac  potiflimum 
platea,  licet  idem  quoque  fit  in  aliis  ubi  auri- 
fabri  habitant,  aurea  &  argentea  yafa  propa- 
1am  expofita,  item  antiqua  Sc  recentia  nu- 
mifmata,  in  tanta  copia,  ut  quemlibet  percgre 
advenientem,  &  ifta  contemplantem  facile 
in  admirationem  trahant. 

Fitz-Stephanus  Anglicse  hiftoriae  fcriptor, 
fuo  tempore  cxxvii.  Ecclefias  Parochiales  & 
XIII.  Conventuales  Londini  numeravit,  & 
fada  hominum  armigerorum  oftenfione,  qua- 
draginta  millia  peditum,  equitum  viginta  mil- 
lia,  fub  fignis  Londinenfes  eduxifTe  Uteris  pro- 
didit.  Guilhel.  CambcL  in  Britannia  fub  tit. 
Midlefex. 

OSTREA 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       45 

The  ftreets  in  this  city  are  very  handfome 
and  clean  ;  but  that  v/hich  is  named  from 
the  gold-fmiths  who  inhabitjft,  furpafies  all 
the  reft  :  There  is  in  it  a  gilt  Tower,  with 
a  fountain  that  plays.  Near  it  on  the  farther 
fide  is  a  handfome  houfe,  built  by  a  gold- 
fmith,  and  prefented  by  him  to  the  city. 
There  are  befides  to  be  (cen  in  this  ftreet,  as 
in  all  others  where  there  are  gold-fmiths 
fhops,  all  forts  of  gold  and  filver  veflels  ex- 
pofed  to  fale  ;  as  well  as  antient  and  modern 
medals,  in  fuch  quantities  as  muft  furprize  a 
man  the  firft  time  he  fees  and  confiders  them. 

Fitz-^'Stephens,  a  writer  of  Englifh  hiftory, 
reckoned  in  his  time  in  London,  127  parifli 
Churches,  and  13  belonging  to  Convents  : 
He  mentions  befides,  that  upon  a  review 
there  of  men  able  to  bear  arms,  the  people 
brought  into  the  field  under  their  colours, 
40,000  foot,  and  20,000  horfe.  Fide  Camb- 
dm's  Britan,  Middle/ex. 

O  The 


46    HENTZNERI  Itinerariutvt^ 

OsTREA  delicatiflimi    efus  hie  magna  in 
numero  venalia  circumferuntur. 
% 

Notiillmum  eft  &  illud,  Pannos  Angli- 
cos  ob  mater iae  bonitatem  valde  commendari, 
&  in  omnia  Europae  regna  &  provincias  im- 
portari. 

Vidimus  in  Leonardi  Fabri,  fartoris,  Lon- 
dinenfis  sedibus  fpeculum  excellentiifimum, 
margaritis,  auro,  argento,  &  holoferico  ita 
exornatum,  ut  quingentis  coronatis  folaribus 
aeftimarctur.  Habebat  idem  hippocampum  & 
aethitem  lapidem,  quae  ut  rara  &  vifu  digna 
libenter  afpeximus. 

jftgue  hac  de  LoNDiNO  Anglia  MeiropolL 

Londino  poftea  exfpatiandi  causa  Thamefi 
flumine  fecundo  digreffis,  primum  nobis  oc- 
currit  navis  nobiliflimi  iftius  Pyratae  Franclfci 
Draci,  qua  totum  terrarum  orbem  (five  per 
^trumque  hemifphaerium)  circumnavigafTe  di- 

citur. 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       46 

The  ibeft  Oysters  are  fold  Uere  in  great 
quantitiea. 

Every  body  knows  that  English  Cloth 
is  much  approved  of,  for  the  goodnefs  of  the 
rnaterials,  and  imported  into  all  the  kingdoms 
and  provinces  of  Europe.  ^ 

We  were  fliewn  at  the  houfe  of  Leonard 
Smith,  a  taylor,  a  moll  perfe£l  looking-glafs, 
ornamented  with  gold,  pearl,  filver  and  velvet, 
fo  richly  as  to  be  eftimated  at  five  hundred 
ecus  du  foleil.  We  faw  at  the  fame  place  the 
liippocamp  and  eagle  ftone,  both  very  curious 
and  rare. 

And  thus  much  of  London^ 

Upon  taking  the  air  down  the  river,  the 
firft  thing  that  ftruck  us,  was  the  fhip  of  that 
noble  Pirate,  Sir  Francis  Drake,  in  which 
he  is  faid  to  have  Surrounded  this  globe  of 
earth.  On  the  left  hand  lies  Ratcliffe, 
O  2  a  coo* 


47    HENTZNERI   Itikerarium. 

citur,  cujus  reliquiae  memoriae  caufsa  adh\ic 
ibi  aflervantur ;  ad  finiftram  eft  fuburbium  fatis 
magnum,  Rattelew  divftum,  cui  in  altera 
ripa  oppofita  eft  pertica  quaedam  lignea,  cum 
cornibus  arietinis  fuperius  affixis  ;  qiise  vulgo 
fignificare  dicuntur,  ita  puniri  etahi,  qui  fcien^ 
&  volens  paflus  fit  alium  cum  conjuge  fua  con- 
cumbere,  tacite  in  adulterium  confentiendo. 

Venimus  deinde  ad  arcefn  I'egiam^  Gron- 
wiDGE  feu  Grunwidge  vulgo  dictam,  quae 
arx  Latinis  faltum  viridem  denotat ;  banc  Hum- 
fradum  Gloceftria^  Ducem  aedificare  cepifTe, 
&  Henricum  VIL  Angliae  regem  magnifice 
adauxiffc,  fama  eft.  Nata  eft  in  eadem  fe- 
reniiTmia  Angliae  regina  Elifabetba,  quae  adhuc 
rerum  potitur,  &  in  hac  libentiffime,  praefer- 
tim  tempore  aeftivo,  ob  fummam  loci  amceni- 
tatem  efl'e  folet.  Poftquam  banc  arcem  in- 
grefii  fumus,'  ex  mandato  fummi  Cubiculari- 
orum  Praefedli,  quod  Dn.  Daniel  Rogerius  im- 
petraverat,  in  Cameram  Praefentationis,  un- 
diquaque  tapctis  preciofis  exornatam,  (pavi- 
mcntum  vero,  uti  in  Angliae  moris  eft,  foeno 

crat 


.     HENTZNER's   Travels.      47 

a  confiderable  fuburb  :  On  the  oppofite  fhore 
is  fixed  a  long  pole  with  rams-horns  upon  it, 
the  intention  of  which  was  vulgarly  faid  to 
be,  a  reflection  upon  wilful  and  contented 
cuckolds. 

We  arrived  next  at  the  royal  palace  of 
Greenwich,  reported  to  have  been  origi- 
nally built  by  Humphrey  Duke  of  Gloucefter, 
and  to  have  received  very  magnificent  addi- 
tions from  Henry  VIT.  It  was  here  Eliza- 
beth, the  prefent  queen,  was  born,  and  here 
flie  generally  refides  ;  particularly  in  fummer, 
for  the  delightful nefs  of  it's  fituation.  We 
were  admitted  by  an  order  Mr.  Rogers  had 
procured  from  the  Lord  Chamberlain,  into 
the  Prefence-Chamber,  hung  with  rich  tapef^ 
try,  and  the  floor  after  the  Englifh  fafliion, 
ftrewcd  with  *  hay,  through  which  the 
Queen  commonly  pafles  in  her  way  to  chapel : 
At  the  door  ftood  a  Gentleman  drefl'ed  in 
velvet,  with   a  gold  chain,  whofe  oflfice  was 

*  He  probably  Means  rujhes. 

to 


4$    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

crat  conftratum)  quam  Regina,  quando  in 
facellum  ad  preces  ire  vult,  tranfire  folet ;  ad 
janum  ftabat  nobilis  quidam  veftibus  holoferi- 
cis  amiiStus,  $c  catena  aurea  cinctus,  qui  Co- 
mites,  Barones,  Nobiles  &  alios  utriufque 
fexus,  Reginam  adire  cupientes,  ad  eandem 
deducebat  ;  (erat  tiim  forte  dies  Dominicus, 
quo  magnates  plerumque  reginam  invifere 
folent)  in  camera,  quam  dixi,  praeftolabantur 
reginam  Epifcopi  Cantuarienfis  &  Londinen- 
fis,  Confiliarii,  Officiarii,  &  Nobiles  magno 
numero  ;  poftea  cum  hora  precum  inflaret, 
Regina  ex  fuo  conclavi  prodiit,  tali  cum  co- 
mitatu : 


Praeibant  Nobiles,  Barones,  Comites,  & 
Equites  Ordinis  Perifcelidis,  omnes  fplendidc 
veftiti,  &  capite  detefto ;  proxime  antecede- 
bant  duo,  alter  qui  fceptrum  Regni,  alter  qui 
gladium  in  vagina  rubra  aureis  liliis  diftinfta 
reconditum,  cufpide  furfum  versa,  portabat,  in- 
ter quos  medius  procedebat  magnus  Anglia* 
Canccllarius,  figillum  Regni  in  marfupio  ho- 
lofcrico  rubro  gerens  5  hos  fcquebatur  Regina^ 

aetatis. 


HENTZNER^s   Travels.        48 

to  introduce  to  the  Queen  any  Perfon  of  Dif- 
tiiKSion,  that  came  to  wait  on  her:  It  was 
Sunday,  when  there  is  ufually  the  greateft 
attendance  of  Nobilit)%  In  the  fame  hall 
were  the  Archbifhop  of  Canterbury,  the 
Bifliop  of  London,  a  great  number  of  Coun- 
fellors  of  State,  Officers  of  the  Crown,  and 
Gentlemen,  who  waited  the  Queen's  coming 
out ;  which  fhe  did  from  her  own  apartment, 
when  it  was  time  to  go  to  Prayers,  attended 
in  the  following  manner : 

Firft  went  Gentlemen,  Barons,  Earls, 
Knights  of  the  Garter,  all  richly  dreffed  and 
bare-headed ;  next  came  the  Chancellor, 
bearing  the  Seals  in  a  red-filk  Purfe,  between 
Two ;  one  of  which  carried  the  Royal  Scep- 
.ter,  the  other  the  Sword  of  State,  in  a  red 
fcabbard,  ftudded  with  golden  Fleurs  de  Lis, 
the  point  upwards  :  Next  came  the  Quecn> 
in  the  Sixty-fifth  Year  of  her  Age,  as  wc 
were  told,  very  majeftic  ;  her  Face  oblong, 
fair,  but  wrinkled ;  her  Eyes  fmall,  yet 
black  and  pleafant ;  her  Nofe  a  little  hooked  ; 
her  Lips  narrow,  and  her  Teeth  black  ;    (a 

defea 


49  HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 
aetatis,  uti  rumor  erat,  Lxv.  annorum,  mag-, 
na  cum  majeflate,  facie  oblonga  &  Candida, 
fed  rugosa,  occulis  parvis,  fed  iiigris  &  gra- 
tiofis,  nafo  paululum  inflexo,  labiis  compreflis, 
dentibus  fuliginofis  (quod  vitium  ex  nimio 
faccari  ufu  Anglos  contrahere  verifimile  eft) 
inaures  habens  duas  margaritis  nobiliffimis 
appenfis,  crinem  fulvum  fed  fad^itium  ;  capiti 
impofita  erat  parva  qurxdam  corona,  quae  ex 
particula  auri  celeberrimas  illius  tabulae  Lunae- 
burgcnfis  fadla  effe  perhibetur  ;  pecSore  erat 
luida,  quod  virginitatis  apud  Anglos  nobiies 
fignum  eft ;  nam  maritatae  funt  tedtae ;  col- 
lum  torques  gemmis  nobiliftimis  refertus 
circumdabat ;  manus  erant  graciles,  digiti 
longlufculi,  ftatura  corporis  mediocris  ;  in  in- 
ceffu  magnifica,  verbis  blanda  &  humanifH- 
ma ;  irxduta  forte  turn  temporis  erat  vefte  ferJ- 
ca  alba,  cujus  oram  margarkae  preciofiiTimse 
fabarum  magnitudine  decorabant,  toga  fuper- 
inje6la  ex  fcrico  nigro,  cui  argentea  fila  ad- 
mifta,  cum  Cauda  longiftima,  quam  March io- 
nifia  pone  fequens  a  pofteriori  parte  elevatam 
geftabat  ;  collare  habebat  oblongum,  vice 
catenae,     gemmis    &    auro   fulgens.      Turn, 

cum 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       49 

dcfcA  the  Englifh  feem  fubje^  to,  from  their 
too  great  ufe  of  fugar)  fhe  had  in  her  Ears 
two  pearls,  with  very  rich  drops ;  fhe  wore 
falfe  Hair,  and  that  red  -,  upon  her  Head  fhe 
had  a  fmall  Crown,  reported  to  be  made  of 
fome  of  the  gold  of  the  celebrated  Lune- 
bourg  table  *  :  Her  Bofom  was  uncovered, 
as  all  the  Englifh  ladies  have  it,  till  they  mar- 
ry ;  and  fhe  had  on  a  Necklace  of  exceeding 
fine  jewels ;  her  Hands  were  fmall,  her 
Fingers  long,  and  her  Stature  neither  tall 
nor  low ;  her  air  was  flately,  her  manner 
of  fpeaking  mild  and  obliging.  That  day 
file  was  drefled  in  white  Silk,  bordered  with 
pearls  of  the  fize  of  beans,  and  over  it  a 
Mantle  of  black  filk,  fhot  with  fdver  threads  ; 
her  Train  was  very  long,  the  end  of  it  born 
by  a  Marchionefs  ;  inflead  of  a  Chain,  fhe 
had  an  oblong  Collar  of  gold  and  jewels. 
As  fhe  went  along  in  all  this  flate  and  mag- 
nificence, fhe  fpoke  very  graciouily,   firfl  to 

*  Jt  this  diftance  of  t'lme^    it  is  difficult  to 
fay  wkat  this  was, 

P  one. 


50    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

cum  tali  in  pompa  &  magnificentia  incederet, 
nunc  cum  hoc,  mox  cum  alio  Icquebatur 
perhumaniter,  qui  vel  legationis  vel  alterius 
rei  caufla  eo  venerant,  utens  nunc  materno, 
nunc  Gallico,  nunc  Italico  idiomate  ;  nam 
praeterquam  quod  Graece  &  Latine  eleganter 
eft  do6^a,  tenet  ultra  jam  commemorata 
idiomata,  etiam  Hifpanicum,  Scoticum  & 
Belgicum ;  omnes  illam  alloquentes,  pedibus 
flexis  id  faciunt,  quorum  aliquos  interdum 
manu  elevare  folet.  Hos  inter  forte  tum  erat 
Baro  quidam  Bohemus,  Gulielmus  Slawata 
nomine,  Reginae  literas  offerens,  cui  manum 
dextram  chirotheca  detrafta,  annulis  &  lapi- 
dibus  preciofiflimis  fplendentem  porrexit  of- 
culandam,  quod  maximum  infignis  clementiae 
fignum  eft ;  in  tranfitu,  quocunque  faciem 
vertit,  omnes  in  genua  procidunt ;  fequeba- 
tur  Gynaeceum  ex  Comitiffis,  Baroniflis,  & 
Nobilibus  feminis,  fumma  pulchritudine  & 
forma  excellentibus  conftans,  &  maxima  ex 
parte,  veftimentis  albicans;  ab  utroque  latere 
comitabantur  earn  Satellites  nobiles  cum  haftis 
deauratis,  quorum  quinquaginta  funt  numero ; 
in  praeambula  Sacelli,  quod  huic  atrio  conti- 


HENTZNER^s   Travels.        50 

one,  then  to  another,  whether  foreign  Mi- 
niflers,  or  thofe  who  attended  for  different 
reafons,  in  Englifh,  French  and  Italian  ;  for 
befides  being  well  fkilled  in  Greek,  Latin, 
and  the  Lano:uao;es  I  have  mentioned,  (he  is 

DO  ■' 

miftrefs  of  Spanifli,  Scotch,  and  Dutch : 
Whoever  fpeaks  to  her,  it  is  kneeling ;  now 
and  then  (he  raifes  fome  with  her  Hand. 
While  we  were  there,  W,  Slawata,  a  Bo- 
hemian Baron,  had  letters  to  prefent  to  her; 
and  fhe,  after  pulling  off  her  glove,  gave 
him  her  right  Hand  to  kifs,  fparkling  with 
rings  and  jewels,  a  mark  of  particular  Fa- 
vour :  Wherever  fhe  turned  her  Face,  as  fhe 
was  going  along,  every  body  fell  down  on 
their  *  knees.  The  Ladies  of  the  Court 
ibllowed  next  to  her,  very  hand  fome  and  well- 

*  Her  Father  had  been  treated  with  the  fame 
deference*  It  is  mentioned  by  Fox  in  his  ASfs 
and  Monument Sy  that  when  the  Lord  Chancellor 
went  to  apprehend  queen  Catherine  Parr^  he 
Jpoke  to  the  King  on  his  knees* 

Kiftg  fames  L  fuffered  his  courtiers  to  omit  it. 

Bacon's  Papers,  v.  ii.  p.  516, 

P  2  fhaped, 


51    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

guum  eft,  porriguntur  ipfi  libelli  fupplices, 
quos  bcnigniffime  accipit,  unde  tales  fiunt  ac- 
clamationes ;  GOD  save  the  Quene 
ELISABETH!  hoc  eft,  DeusfahetRe- 
ginam  El'ijahetham  ;  ad  quae  populo  fic  ipfa 
refpondet ;  I  thanoke  you  myn  good 
P  E  U  P  E  L,  id  eft  ;  Ago  tihi  gratias  popule 
mi  bone.  In  facello  habebatur  excellens  mu- 
fica,  qua  finita  una  cum  precibus,  quae  vix 
ultra  dimidiam  horam  durabant,  Regina 
cadem  magnificentia  &  ordine,  quo  antea 
difceiTerat,  redibat  &  ad  prandium  fe  confere- 
bat.  Interea  vero  dum  facris  intererat,  vidi- 
mus illi  apparari  menfam  hac  adhibita  (o- 
lemnitate : 

Primo  Nobilis  quidam  atrium  ingreflus, 
fceptrum  manu  tenebat,  adjunftum  fibi  habens 
alium  quendam  Nobilcm  cum  mappa,  qui 
ambo  cum  ter  fumma  cum  veueratione  genua 
ilexifftnt,  alter  ad  menfam  propius  aceedens, 
eam  mappa  infternebat  j  quo  facSo,  rurfus 
poplite  flexo  difcedebant ;  veniebant  poft  hos 
alii  duo,  quorum  alter  rurfum  cum  fceptro, 
alter  cum  falino,    orbe  &   pane    aderat,    qui 

cum. 


HENTZNER's    Travels.       51 

fhaped,  and  for  the  mofl:  part  drcfied  in  white  ; 
fhe  was  guarded  on  each  fide  by  the  Gentle- 
men Penfioners,  fifty  in  number,  with  gilt 
battle-axes  ;  in  the  Antichapel  next  the  Hall 
where  we  were,  Petitions  were  prefented  to 
her,  and  fhe  received  them  moft  graci- 
oufly,  which  occafioned  the  acclamation  of. 
Long  live  Queen  ELIZABETH! 
She  anfwered  it  with,  I  thank  you  my 
GOOD  PEOPLE.  In  the  Chapel  was 
excellent  mufic  ;  as  foon  as  it,  and  the  Service 
was  over,  which  fcarce  exceeded  half  an  hour, 
the  Queen  returned  in  the  fame  State  and 
Order,  and  prepared  to  go  to  Dinner.  But 
while  fhe  was  flill  at  Prayers,  we  faw  her 
Table  fet  out  with  the  following  Solemnity : 

A  Gentleman  entered  the  room  bearing  a 
rod,  and  along  with  him  another  who  had  a 
table-cloth,  which  after  they  had  both  kneel- 
ed three  times,  with  the  utmoft  veneration, 
he  fpread  upon  the  tabic,  and  after  kneeling 
again,  they  both  retired.  Then  came  two 
others,  one  with  the  rod  again,  the  other 
with  a  falt-feller,  a  plate,  and  bread ;  when 

thev 


51    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

cum^  uti  priores,  ter  genua  incurvafient,  & 
res  modo  didlae  menfae  impofitas  effent,  eadem 
omnino  cum  ceremonia  abtvere.  Venit  tan- 
demVirgo  quaedam  Comitifla,  uti  affirmabatur, 
eximiae  pulchritudinis,  veftita  vefte  ferica 
alba,  cui  erat  adjunfta  nobills  matrona,  cul- 
trum  prseguftatorlum  ferens,  quse  ter  fummo 
cum  decore  in  pedes  provoluta,  poftea  ad  men- 
fam  acceflit,  orbes  fale  &  pane  abfterfit,  tan- 
ta  cum  veneratione,  ac  fi  Regina  ipfa  prae- 
iens  fuiffet ;  cumque  paululum  commoratii 
ad  menfam  eflet,  venerunt  fatellites  Regii, 
onmes  capite  nudi,  fagis  rubris  induti,  qui- 
bus  in  poftica  parte  erant  affixae  rofae  aureae, 
fingulis  vicibus  xxiv.  mifliis  ferculorum  in 
patinis  argentcis  &  maxima  ex  parte  deaura- 
tis,  adferentes ;  ab  his  nobills  quidam  ordine 
cibos  accepit,  &  menfae  impofuit  ;  praegu- 
ftatrix  vero  cuilibet  fatelliti,  ex  eadem,  quam 
ipfemet  attulerat,  patina,  buccellam  deguf- 
tandam  praebuit,  ne  aliqua  veneni  fubelTet 
fufpicio  ;  dum  fatellites  ifti,  qui  centum  nu- 
mero  proceid  corporis  ftatura,  &  omnium  ro- 
buftiflimi  ex  toto  Angliae  regno  ad  hoc  munus 
fumma  cura  dcliguntur,  fupradi£los  cibos   ad- 

portarcnt, 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        52 

they  had  kneeled,  as  the  others  had  done, 
and  placed  what  was  brought  upon  the  table, 
they  too  retired  with  the  fame  ceremonies 
performed  by  the  firft.  At  lafl:  came  an  un- 
married Lady,  (we  were  told  fhe  was  a  Coun- 
tefs)  and  along  with  her  a  married  one,  bear- 
ing a  tafting-knife  5  the  former  was  drefled 
in  white  filk,  who  when  Ihe  had  proftrated 
herfelf  three  times,  in  the  moft  graceful  man- 
ner approached  the  table,  and  rubbed  the 
plates  with  bread  and  fait,  with  as  much 
awe,  as  if  the  Queen  had  been  prefent : 
When  they  had  waited  there  a  little  while, 
the  Yeomen  of  the  Guard  entered,  bare- 
headed, cloathed  in  fcarlet,  with  a  golden 
rofe  upon  their  backs,  bringing  in  at  each 
turn  a  courfc  of  twenty-four  difhes,  ferved 
in  plate  moft  of  it  gilt ;  thefe  diflies  were  re- 
ceived by  a  Gentleman  in  the  fame  order 
they  were  brought,  and  placed  upon  the 
table,  while  the  Lady-Tafter  gave  to  each  of 
the  guard  a  mouthful  to  eat,  of  the  particu- 
lar difh  he  had  brought,  for  fear  of  any  poifon. 
During  the  time  that  this  guard,  which  con- 
fiils  of  the  talleft  and  ftouteft  men  that  can 

he 


53    HETNITZNERI   Itinerarium. 

portarcnt,  erant  in  aulae  area  xii.  tubicines, 
&  duo  tympaniftne,  qui  tubis,  buccinis,  Sc 
tympariis  magno  fonitu  per  fefquihoram 
clangebant.  Caeremoniis  autem,  modo  com- 
memoratis,  circa  menfam  abfolutis,  aderant 
illico  virgines  aliquot  nobiles,  quae  fingulari 
cum  veneratione  cibos  de  menfa  auferebant, 
&  in  interius  &  fecretius  Reginae  cubiculum 
a/portabant. 

Eligere  ibi  Regina  folet  quos  vult,  caeteri 
pro  gyniEceo  fervantur  ;  prandet  &  coenat 
fola  paucis  aftantibus,  atque  null  us  admitti- 
tur,  neque  peregrinus,  neque  Regni  quoque 
incola,  nifi  rarifTimc  &  quidem  ex  fingulari 
magnatis  alicujus  interceflione. 

Caeterum  prope  banc  arcem  videtur  Reginns 
vivarium,  in  quo  variae  aluntur  ferae ;  quern 
admodum  &  per  totam  fere  Angliam  ejufce- 
modi  vivaria  valde  funt  frequentia,  inter  no- 
biliores  &  ditiores  potiilimum.  In  iflius  um- 
bilico  Turris  eft  quadrata  antiqua  colliculo  im- 
pofita,  MiREFLEUR  nomine,  cujus  Amadi- 
fium  ilium  Gailicum  in  figmentis  fuis  men- 

tionem 


I 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       53 

be  found  in  all  England,  being  carefully  fc- 
le6led  for  this  fervice,  were  bringing  din- 
ner, twelve  trumpets,  and  two  kettle-drums 
made  the  hall  ring  for  half  an  hour  together. 
At  the  end  of  all  this  ceremonial  a  number 
of  unmarried  Ladies  appeared,  who  with 
particular  folemnity  lifted  the  meat  off  the 
table,  and  conveyed  it  into  the  Queen's  in- 
ner and  more  private  chamber,  where  after 
(he  had  chofen  for  herfelf,  the  reft  goes  to 
the  Ladies  of  the  Court. 

The  Queen  dines  and  fups  alone  with  very 
few  attendance  ;  and  it  is  very  fcldom  that 
any  body,  foreigner  or  native,  is  admitted  at 
that  time,  and  then  only  at  the  interceinon 
of  fomebody  in  power. 

Near  this  palace  is  the  Qiieen's  Park  flock- 
ed with  deer:  Such  Parks  are  common 
throughout  England,  belonging  to  thofe  that 
are  diftinguifhed  either  for  their  rank  or  riches. 
In  the  middle  of  this  is  an  old  fquare  Tower, 
called  MiREFLEUR,  fuppofed  to  be  that  men- 
tioned in  the  romance  of  Am.adis  de  Gaul ; 
and  joining  to  it  a  plain,  where  Knights  and 
Q^  other 


54    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

tionem  facere,  quldam  volunt ;  hulc  contigua 
eft  planities  Equeftribus  exercitiis  deftinata, 
in  qua  ftatis  &  feftivis  temporibus  Equite* 
aliique  nobiles  convenire  folent. 

LonJino  curru  dlfceflirtius  loco   vicina  & 
celebriora  viffcndi  gratia. 

Vidimus  prima    arcem  Thebal^     vuIo;o 
THiBAULDSy    pertmentem  ad  Dn.  Burghley 
Angliae  Regni  Thefaurarium  ;    in  xyfto  de- 
pidta   erat  Anglrae  regum    genealogia;     huic 
contiguus  eft  hortus,    quern  -fofla  aqua  plena 
fere  undiquaque  claudit,    ita  ut  quis  navigio- 
magna   cum     voluptate    inter  fruticeta  hinc 
indc  fpatiari  poflit ;   varias  ibi  reperias  arbores^ 
&  herbas,  labyrinthos  magna  induftria  failos, 
fontem    ex  marmore  candido  falientis  aquae, 
columnas  item  &  pyramides,    turn  ex  ligno 
turn  ex  alia  materia  paftim  in  horto  po'fitas ;  in" 
trodu^i  poftea  ab  hortulano  in  domum  aefti- 
vam.  Vidimus   in   inferiore    ejus   parte,    qua? 
femicircularj  forma  conftru6la  eft,  xn.  impe- 
ratores   Romanes  ex   marmore  candido,     Sc 
njtenfam    ex   lydio    lapide ;    fuperioris    parti* 

utrumque 


HENTZNER's    Travels.       54 

other   Gentlemen  ufe  to  meet    at  fet   times 
and  holidays  to  exercife  on  horfe-back. 

We  left  London  in  a  coach,  in  order  to  fee 
the  remarkable  places  in  it's  neighbourhood. 

The  firft  was  Theobalds,  belonging  to 
Lord  Burleigh  the  Treafurer :  In  the  gallery 
was  painted  the  genealogy  of  the  kings  of 
England  ;  from  this  place  one  goes  into  the 
garden,  encompafled  with  a  ditch  full  of 
water,  large  enough  for  one  to  have  the  plea- 
fure  of  going  in  a  boat,  and  rowing  between 
the  flirubs  ;  here  are  great  variety  of  trees 
and  plants  ;  labyrinths  made  with  a  great 
deal  of  labour ;  ajetd*eau,  with  it's  bafon 
of  white  marble  ;  and  columns  and  pyramids 
of  wood  and  other  materials  up  and  down 
the  garden :  After  feeing  thefe,  we  were  led 
by  the  gardiner  into  the  fummer-houfe,  in  the 
lower  part  of  which,  built  femicircularly,  are 
the  twelve  Roman  emperors  in  white  marble, 
and  a  table  of  touchftone  ;  the  upper  part  of 
it  is  fet  round  with  cifterns  of  lead,  into 
which  the  water  is  conveyed  through  pipes, 

CL2     '  fo 


55     HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

utrumque  latus  cingunt  labra  plumbea,  in  quae 
aqua  per  canales  eft  deducSa,  ut  in  illis  pifces 
fervari,  Sc  asftivo  tempore  in  frigida  commode 
lavari  poflit  ;  in  alio  coenaculo,  huic  plane 
vicino,  &  per  ponticulum  conjunfto,  erat 
menfa  ex  marmore  rubro  figura  ovali.  Ad 
arc  is  hujus  penetralia  non  fumus  admiili  prop- 
ter abfentiam  familiae,  quas  eodem  die  funerc 
Domini  fui  Londini  interfuit. 

Hatztan,  pagus. 

Ware,  vicus. 

BocKRiTSCH,  pagus ;  Icdios  a  fervis  in 
hdc  provincia  fterni  &  praeparari  hie  primum 
obren-avimus. 

Camboritum,  Cantabrigium,  & 
Cantabrigia  Latinis,  vulgo  Cambridge 
celeberrimum  Angliae  regni  oppidum,  fic  dic- 
tum a  Camo  Huvio,  qui  cum  occidentale  ejus 
latus  infulis  ludens  perfperfcrit,  ad  ortum  con- 
verius,  in  partes  difpertit  duas,  ponteque  con- 
jungitur,    undc  rcceiitiu^  hoc  nomen   Cam- 

brid2;e 

o 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       55 

fo  that  fifli  may  be  kept  in  them,  and  in  Turn- 
mer  time  they  are  very  convenient  for  bathing ; 
in  another  room  for  entertainment  very  near 
this,  and  joined  to  it  by  a  little  bridge,  v/as 
an  oval  table  of  red  marble.  We  v/ere  not 
admitted  to  fee  the  apartments  of  this  palace, 
there  being  nobody  to  (hew  it,  as  the  family 
was  in  tov/n  attending  the  funeral  of  their 
Lord  *. 

HoDSDON,  a  village. 
Ware,  a  market  tov7n. 

PucKERiDGE,  a  village ;  this  was  the  firfl 
place  where  we  obfcrved  that  the  beds  at 
inns  were  made  by  the  waiters. 

Camboritum,  Cantabrigium,  and 
Cantabrigia,  now  called  Cambridge, 
a  celebrated  town,  fo  named  from  the  river 
Cam,  which  after  wafhing  the  Weftern-fide, 
playing  through  iflands,  turns  to  the  Eall,  and 
divides  the  town  into  two  parts,  which  are 

*  Lord  Trecifurer  Burleigh  diedy  Aug,  4,  1598. 

joined 


56    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

bridge  enatum  ;,  cum  Saxonico  vocabulo  olim 
Grantbridge  appellatum  fuerit.  Ultra 
pontem  cernitur  Caftellum  amplum  &  vetuf- 
tum  in  colle  fitum,  quod  a  Danis  extruftum 
fuifie  perhibetur  :  Cis  pontem,  ubi  urbis  pars 
longe  maxima  jacet,  platearum  defcrlptione, 
templorum  frequentia,  Sc  pulcherrimis  Mufa- 
rum  facrariis  five  CoUegiis  omnia  nitent ;  in 
quibus  eruditiilimi  viri  magno  numero  abintur, 
omniumque  bonarum  artium  fcientia  &  lin- 
guarum  cognitio  florent. 

De  fundatione  Academiae  hujus  oppidi  & 
de  Collegiis  haec  paucula  annotare  placuit ; 
Cantabrum  Hifpanum,  Anno  ante  Chriftum 
natum  373.  Academiam  banc  primum  inftitu- 
illc,  &  Sebcrtum  Oriental ium  Anglorum  re- 
gem,  Anno  poft  Chriftum  630.  reftituiile 
perhibetur*  Poftea  Danicis  procellis  fubinde 
cverfa,  diu  neglecSla  jacuit,  donee  fub  Nor- 
mannico  imperio  omnia  dilucefcere  inceperint  ; 
jam  inde  literarum  diverforia,  hofpitia,  & 
nulx  ftudiofis  excitata  fuerunt,  fed  nullis  pof- 
iciTionibus  dotata. 

Primum 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        56 

joined  by  a  Bridge  ;  whence  it's  modern 
name :  Formerly  it  had  the  Saxon  one  of 
Grantbridge.  Beyond  this  bridge  is  an 
antient  and  large  Caftle,  faid  to  be  built  by 
the  Danes  :  On  this  fide,  where  far  the 
greater  part  of  the  town  ftands,  all  is  fpl en- 
did  ;  the  ftreets  fine,  the  churches  numerous, 
and  thofe  feats  of  the  Mufes,  the  Colleges, 
moft  beautiful ;  in  thefe  a  great  number  of 
learned  men  are  fupported,  and  the  ft'udies  of 
all  polite  fciences  and  languages  flouriih. 

I  think  proper  to  mention  fome  few  things 
about  the  foundation  of  this  Univerfity, 
and  it's  Colleges.  Cantaber,  a  Spaniard,  h 
thouo;ht  to  have  firft  inftituted  this  Acade- 
my,  375  Years  before  Chrifl: ;  and  Sebert 
king  of  the  Eaft- Angles,  to  have  reftored  it, 
A.  D.  630.  It  was  aftewards  fubverted  in 
the  confufion  under  the  Danes,  and  lay  long 
neglected ;  till  upon  the  Norman  conque^i: 
every  thing  began  to  brighten  up  again  : 
From  that  time,  Inns  and  Halls  for  the  con- 
venient lodging  of  Students  began  to  be  built, 
but  without  any  revenues  annexed  to  them. 

The 


57     HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

Primum  vero  Collegium,  quod  S.  Petri  do« 
mus  vocatur,  Hugo  Balmam  Epifcopus  Eli- 
enfis.  Anno  ChrilH  1280,  exftruxit  5c  dota- 
vit,  qucm  fccuti  Sc  imitati  Richardus  Badew, 
ab  Eliiabetha  Clara  Ultoniae  Comitilla  adju- 
tus,  Anno  Chrifli  1343,  Auiam  Clarenfem  ; 
Maria  de  S.  Paulo  Penbrochias  ComitifTa, 
Anno  Chrifti  1343,  Aulam  Penbrochieniem  ; 
Societas  fratrum  Corporis  Chrifti  1344,  Col- 
legium Corporis  Chrifti  ;  quod  &  S.  Benedicii 
dicitur ;  Joannes  Craudenfis,  Anno  Chrifti 
1354,  Aulam  Trinitatis  ;  Edmundus  Gone- 
>ile.  Anno  Chrifti  1348,  Sc  Joannes  Cajus 
Medirus  noftro  tempore  Gonevilli  &  Caii 
Collegium  ;  Henricus  VI.  Rex  A^ngliae,  Col- 
legium Rcgium,  Anno  Chrifti  1441,  cui  Sa- 
cellum  adjunxit,  quod  inter  pulcherrima  orbis 
sedificia  fuo  jure  locum  fibi  vendicat,  habens 
ad  latus  dextrum  Bibliothecam  infignem,  in 
qua  librum  Pfalmorum  in  membranii  fcriptum, 
quatuor  fpithamas  longum,  &  tres  latum  vi- 
dimus, Hifpanis  in  oppugnatione  Gadium 
ereptum,  5z  inter  alia  opima  fpolia  in  Ang- 
liam  deportaturn.     Margaretha  Andegavcnfis 

ejus 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       57 

The  firfl  College,  called  Peter-Houfe,  was 
built  and  endowed  by  Hugh  Balfam,  Bifhop 
of  Ely,  A.  D.  1280;  and  in  imitation  of 
him,  Richard  Badew,  with  the  afliftance  of 
Elizabeth  Burk  Countefs  of  Clare  and  Ul- 
fter  founded  Clare-Hall,  in  1326;  Mary 
de  St,  Paul  Countefs  of  Pembroke,  Pem- 
broke-Hall, in  1343  ;  the  Monks  of  Corpus 
Chrifti,  the  College  of  the  fame  Name, 
though  it  has  befides  that  of  Bennet ;  John 
Craudene,  Trinity-Hall,  1354;  Edmond 
Gonville  in  1348,  and  John  Caius,  a  Phyfi- 
cian  in  our  times,  Gonville  and  Caius  Col- 
lege ;  King  Henry  VI.  King's  College,  in 
1441  5  adding  to  it  a  Chapel,  that  may  juftly 
claim  a  place  among  the  moft  beautiful  build- 
ings in  the  world  ;  on  it's  right  fide  is  a  fine 
Library,  where  we  faw  the  Book  of  Pfalms 
in  manufcript  upon  parchment,  four  fpans 
in  length,  and  three  broad,  taken  from  the 
Spaniards  at  the  fiege  of  Cadiz,  and  thence 
brought  into  England  with  other  rich  fpoils. 
Margaret  of  Arijou,  his  wife,  founded 
Queen's  College,  1448,  at  the  fame  time  that 
R  John 


5?    HENTZNERI  IriNERAHmM, 

ejus  uxor.  Anno  Chriftj  1448,  CollegluKi 
Reginale ;  eodemque  tempore  Joannes  Al-^ 
cockus,  Ephfcopus  Eljenfis,  Collegium  Jefu  ; 
Robertus  Woodlacke,  Anno  Chrifti-  1459, 
S.  Catherinae  Aulatn  ;  Margaretha  Rkhmun- 
dia,  Henrici  VII.  Anglic-e  regis  mater, 
Ghrifti  and  S.  Joannis  Collegia,  circker  An- 
num Chrifti  1 506  ;  Thomas  Avvdley,  Ang- 
liae  Cancellarius,.  Collegium  Magdalenae^  quod 
clariiUmus  vir  Dn.  Chriftopher  Wrey,  fiim- 
ttius  Angliae  Juftitiarius,  &  redificiis  &  poflef- 
fionibus  adauxit ;  et  potent iflimus  rex  Henrf- 
cus  VIII.  S.  Trinkatis  Collegium,  Anna 
Sal utis  1546,  religioni  &  feonrs  Ikeris  exaedi- 
ficavit,  in  cujus  Sacello  Withackeri  Theologi 
epitaphium  eft,  aureis  literis  marmori  infcrip- 
tum ;  Collegium  Emanuells,  quod  bonis  ftu- 
diis  honoratiflimus  &  prudentiffimus  vir,  Dn.. 
Gualterus  Mildmajus  Eques  Auratus,,  &regiac 
Majeftati  ab  intimis  confiliis  noftra  aetate  ex- 
ftruxit  :  Et  Collegium  Seidnei,  quod  novum. 
Seidncius  Eques  Auratus  nunc  molitur. 

Notandum  hie,    quod   in  Anglia  quaedam. 
eft  Se6la,  quse  Puritanorum  vocatur  :   Hi 

ex 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        5$ 

John   Alcock,    Bifhop   of   Ely,    built  Jefus 
College ;     Robert    Woodlarke,      Catherine- 
Hall,   1456 ;    Margaret  of  Richmond,    mo- 
ther of   king   Henry   VII.    Chrift's  and    St. 
John's  Colleges,  about  1506  ;  Thomas  Aud- 
ley.      Chancellor    of    England,      Magdalen 
College,  much  encreafed  fince  both  in  build- 
ings   and    revenue     by    Chriftopher    Wray, 
Lord   Chief  Juftice ;    and   the  moft   potent 
king  Henry  VIIL    ere<Sed    IVinity    College 
for  religion  and  polite  letters  ;    in  it's  Chapel 
is  the  tomb  of  Dr.  Whitacre,  w^ith  an  infcrip- 
tion  in  gold  letters  upon  marble;  Emanuel 
College  built  in  our  own  times  by  the  moft 
honourable    and  prudent    Sir  Walter  Mild- 
may,    one  of   her  Majefty's  Privy  Council : 
And  laftly,  Sidney  College,    now  firft  build- 
ing  by  the  executors  of  the  Lady  *  Frances 
Sidney  Countefs  of  Suflex. 

We  muft  note  here,  that  there  is  a  certain 
Sc6l  in  England,  called  Puritans  :  Thefe, 

*  She  was  the  Daughter^  Stjier  and  Aunt^ 
of  thofe  eminent  Knights^  Sir  William^  Sir 
Henry ^  and  Sir  Philip  Sidney. 

R  2  according 


59    HENTZNERI   Itinf.rarium. 

ex  opinione  Ecclefiae  Genevenfis  omnes  fefc 
caeremonias  ab  antiquis  ufurpatas,  organa 
item  &  epitaphia  e  templis  ejiciunt,  difparita- 
tem  officlorum  inter  ecclefiafticos,  ut  funt 
Epifcopatus,  Abbatiae,  isfc,  tollunt,  &  ejuf- 
cemodi  dignitates  omnino  refpuunt,  hoc  no- 
mine primum  appellati  a  Jefuita  Sandcs.  Non 
vivunt  ifti  feorfum,  fed  reliquis  hinc  inde  in 
CoHegiis  fuht  immifti. 

BoTTON,  pagus, 

Amtheil,  vicus ;  hic  infinitam  iDultitu- 
dinem  cuniculorum  vidimus,  qui  loco  Icporum 
habentur,  &  faporis  funt  optimi. 

Obern,  Leitten,  Elsberg,  &  Wet- 
LEFF,  vicos  tranfivimus. 

OxoNiUM,  vulgo  OxENFORD,  Athcnae 
Anglicje  nobilifTimae,  literarum  &  fapicntias 
clarifnma  officina,  unde  religio,  humanitas, 
&  doclrina  in  omnes  regni  partes  uberrimc 
diftribuuntur  :    Oppidum  egrcgium  tSc  nitidum 

eft. 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       59 

according  to  the  dodlrine  of  the  Church  of 
Geneva,  rejecl  all  ceremonies  antiently  held, 
and  admit  of  neither  organs  nor  tom.bs  in 
their  places  of  worfliip,  and  entirely  abhor  all 
difference  in  rank  among  churchmen,  fuch 
as  Bifhops,  Deans,  ^c.  they  were  firft 
named  Puritans  by  the  Jefuit  Sandys.  They 
do  not  live  feperate,  but  mix  with  thofe  of 
the  Church  of  England  in  the  Colleges. 

Pot  TON,  a  village. 

Ampthill,  a  town  ;  here  we  faw  im- 
menfe  numbers  of  rabbits,  which  are  rec- 
koned as  good  as  hares,  and  are  very  well 
taftcd. 

We  pafled  through  the  towns  of  Woburn, 
Leighton,  Ailesbury,  and  Wheatley^ 

OxoNiUM,  Oxford,  the  famed  Athens 
of  England  ;  that  glorious  feminary  of  learn- 
ing and  wifdom,  whence  religion,  politenefs, 
and  letters,  are  abundantly  difperfed  into  all 
parts  of  the  kingdom  :  The  town  is  remark- 
ably fine,    whether  you  confider  the  elegance 

of 


to    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

eft  five  privatorum  asdificiorum  elegantiam, 
five  publicorum  dignitatem,  five  fitus  falubri- 
tatem  &  amoenitatem  fpe61:es  ;  planitiem  enim 
ita  obvallant  nemorofi  colics,  ut  hinc  peftilen- 
ti  Auftro,  illinc  tempeftuoro  Zephyro  exclufo, 
tantum  ferenantem  Eurum  &  Aquilonem  cor- 
ruptionis  vindicem  admittant,  unde  ab  hoc 
fitu  Bellositum  quondam  diftum  fuifle 
produnt  nonnulli.  Alluunt  hoc  oppidum 
duo  fluvii  Chenvel,  &  Ifis,  vulgo  Oufe,  qui 
licet  in  unum  alveum  aquas  confocient,  Ids 
tamen  folidus  &  concitatior  in  Auftrum  fertur, 
^  nomen  retinet,  donee  fluvium  Tamam 
quern  diu  qua^fierat  inveniat,  &  ad  vicum 
WallengdorfF  in  fe  recipiat,  unde  poftea 
fluviorum  Britannicorum  regnator  compo- 
fito  vocabulo  Thamefis  appellatur,  de  quo 
non  immerito  dicere  liceat,  eum  &  ferere  Bri- 
tanniam  &  rigare,  quod  de  Euphrate  in  oriente 
dixcrunt  veteres. 

Ca?terum  Collegia  in  hac  celebri  univerfi- 
tatc  haec  funt : 

Henrico 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        6o 

of  it's  private  buildings,  the  magnificence  of 
it's  public  ones,  or  the  beauty  and  v/holefome- 
nefs  of  it's  fituation  ;  w^hich  is  on  a  plain, 
encompafled  in  fuch  a  manner  with  hills 
fhaded  v^^ith  wood,  as  to  be  fheltered  on  the 
one  hand  from  the  fickly  South,  and  on  the 
other  from  the  bluftering  Weft,  but 'open  to 
the  Eaft  that  blows  ferene  weather,  and  to 
the  North  the  preventer  of  corruption  ;  from 
which  in  the  opinion  of  fome  it  formerly 
obtained  the  appellation  of  Bellositum. 
This  town  is  watered  by  two  rivers,  the 
Cherwell,  and  the  Ifis,  vulgarly  called  the 
Oufe ;  and  though  thefe  ftreams  join  in  the 
fame  channel,  yet  the  Ifis  runs  more  entire, 
and  with  more  rapidity  towards  the  Souths 
retaining  it's  name,  till  it  meets  the  Thame, 
which  it  feems  long  to  have  fought,  at  Wal- 
lingford,  thence  called  by  the  compound  name 
of  Thames,  it  flows  the  prince  of  all  Britifh 
rivers ;  of  whom  we  may  juftly  fay,  as  the 
antients  did  of  the  Euphrates,  That  it  both- 
fows  and  waters  England. 

The  Colleges  in  this  famous  Univcrfity  arc 
as  follov/s ;  In. 


6i     HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

Henrico  III.  Anglorum  rege  adhuc  reg- 
nante  Gualterus  Merton  Epifcopus  Roffenfis 
Gollegium  quod  in  agro  Surrienfi  pofuerat  An- 
no Chrifti  1274  ;  Oxonium  tranftulit,  locu- 
pletavit,  &  Mertonenfe  Collegium  dixit ; 
ftatimque  Gulielmus  Archidiaconus  Dunel- 
menfis,  opus  illud  Alfredi,  quod  Univerfitatis 
nunc  vocant  Collegium,  novis  operlbus  ref- 
tauravit ;  Edvvardi  I.  Angliae  rege  regnante, 
Joannes  Belliolus  rex  Scotiae,  vel  ut  alii  vo- 
lunt  ejus  parentes,  Belliolenfe  Collegium  fun- 
darunt;  fub  Edvvardo  TI.  Anglorum  rege 
Gualterus  Stepletonus  Epifcopus  Exonienfis, 
Exonienfe  Collegium,  Aulamque  Cervinam  ; 
&  ipfe  Rex  hunc  imitatus.  Collegium  Re- 
gium,  vulgo  Orial,  &  Aulam  S.  Marian  po- 
f'uit ;  poftea  Philippa  regina,  Edvvardi  III, 
Angliae  regis  uxor,  Collegium  Reginse,  five 
Reginale,  ut  vocant ;  et  Simon  Iflep,  Archi- 
Epifcopus  Cantuarienfis,  Cantuarienfe  Colle- 
gium extruxit ;  Gulielmus  Wiccamus  Epif- 
copus Wintonienfis  Collegium  magnificum, 
quod  Novum  dicitur,  excitavit ;  Collegium 
Marine    Magdalenac    Gulielmus   Wainflcttus 

Epifcopus 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       6i 


In  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  Walter   Merton 
Bifhop  of    Rochefter    removed  the  College 
he   had  founded  in  Surry,   1274,  to  Oxford, 
enriched  it,    and  named   it  Merton  College  ; 
iind  foon  after  William   Arch-deacon  of  Dur^ 
ham  reftored  v\^ith    additions  that  building  of 
Alfred's,    now  called  Univerfity  College  ;    in 
the  reign  of  Edward  I.    John  Baliol  king  of 
Scotland,  or  as  fome  will  have  it  his  Parents, 
founded  Baliol  College ;  in   the  reign  of  Ed- 
ward 11.  Walter  Stapleton   Bifhop  of  Exeter 
founded  Exeter  College,  and  Hart-hall ;    and 
in  imitation  of  him,  the   King,    King's  Col- 
lege, commonly  called  Oriel,  and  St.  Mary's 
Hall  5    next  Philippa,    wife   of  Edward  III. 
built    Queen's     College ;      and   Simon   Iflip 
Arch-bifhop     of     Canterbury',      Canterbury 
College  ;     William    Wickham     Bifhop     of 
Winchefter    raifed    that    magnificent    Struc- 
ture called  New  College  ;    Magdalen  College 
was    built  by   William  Wainfiet    Bifhop  of 
S  Winchefter, 


62    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium, 

Epifcopus  Wintonlenfis  erexit,  quod  opere 
eximkim,  fitu  percommodum,  &  ambulacris 
admodum  amcenum  eft  ;  eodemque  tempore 
Humfredus  Dux  Gloceftriae  bonarum  Ikera- 
rum  admirator  rrraxrmus,  fcholam  Theologi- 
carti  magnifice  extruxit,  &  in  ejus  iuperiorf 
parte  Bibllothecam  inftituit,  centumque  viginti 
novem  feleiSfciilimis  libris,  quos  magnis  impen- 
fis  ex  Italia  comparavit,  exornavit,  fed  hos 
quorundam  privata  avaritia  publico  ufui  jam- 
pridem  invldit :  Collegium  Lincolnienfe ;.  Col- 
legium omnium  animarum  ;  Collegium  D. 
Bernhardi ;  Collegium  -^nei  Nafi  a  Gulrelmo 
Smith  Epifcopo  Lincotnienfi,  regnante  Flenri- 
co  VII.  Anglorum  rege,  conditum,  Sc  ab 
Alexandre  Novvello  S.  Pauli  Londini  Decano 
proventibus  au»5lum  ;  fupra  portam  hujus  Col- 
legii  ^neus  Nafus  eft  affixus ;  Collegium 
'Corporis  Chrifti  a  Richardo  Fox  Epifcopo 
Wintonrenfi  aedificatum,  fub  cujus  effigie  in 
Sacello  Collegii  hi  legunturverficuli : 

Clarus  Wintoniae  Praeful  cognomine  Foxus, 
Qiii  prius  hoc  olini  nobile  ftruxit  opus. 

Talis  erat  forma,  talis  dum  vixit  ami6l:u, 
Qualcm  fpedanti  picla  tabella  refert. 


HENTZNER's    Travels.        62 

Winchefter,  a  noble  edifice,  finely  fituated, 
and  delightful  for  it's  walks  :  At  the  fame 
time  Humphrey  Duke  of  Gloucefter,  that 
great  encourager  of  Learning,  built  the  Di- 
vinity School  very  fplcndidly,  and  over  it  a 
Uribrary,  to  which  he  gave  an  hundred  and 
twenty-nine  very  choice  books,  purchafed  at 
a  great  price  from  Italy,  but  the  public  has 
long  fince  been  robbed  of  the  ufe  of  them 
by  the  avarice  of  particulars  :  Lincoln  Col- 
lege ;  All-Souls  College  ;  St.  Bernard's  Col- 
lege; Brazen-Nofe  College,  founded  by 
William  Smith,  Bifhop  of  Lincoln,  in  the 
reign  of  Henry  VIL  it's  revenues  were  aug-^ 
mented  by  Alexander  Nowell,  Dean  of  St, 
Paul's,  London  ;  upon  the  gate  of  this  Coir 
lege  is  fixed  a  Nofe  of  brafs:  Corpus  Chrifti 
College  built  by  Richard  Fox  Bifhop  of 
Winchefler,  under  his  picSure  in  the  College 
Chapel  are  lines  importing  that  it  is  the  exadj: 
reprcfentation  of  his  perfon  and  drefs^ 


S?  Chrifl's 


63    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium, 

Collegium  QirifH  Thomas  Wolfaeus, 
Cardinalis  Eboracenfis,  ubi  Fridefwidae  Mo- 
nafterium  erat,  omnium  ampliffimum  & 
elegantiflimum  inchoavit,  quod  Henricus 
VIII.  Angliae  rex,  adiun(So  Cantuarienfi 
Collegio,  magnis  redditibus  ditavit,  Sc  ^dem 
Chrifli  dixit  :  PotentiiTimufque  item  princeps 
pecuni^  e  fuo  serario  dcpromta,  ad  oppidi 
dignitatem  Epifcopum  &  ad  Academiae  oraa- 
mentum  publicos  Profcflbrey  iiiftituit. 

Collegium  Jefa  ab  Hugone  Prlfo,  Legum 
Do^lOI'c,  exaedificatum. 

Maria  etiam  Rcgina  Publicas  Scholas  belle 
a  fundamentis  aedificavit,  et  variis  infcriptioni- 
bus  decoravit. 

Ha61-enus  de  Collegiis  &  Aulis,  quae  ele- 
ganti  ftru6tura,  opimis  redditibus,  &  inftruc- 
tis  Bibliothecis  ita  florent,  ut  reliquas  or  bis 
Chriftiani  Academias  fuperent  omnes.  Nunc 
^e.  perfonis  Academicii)  ibi  viveiitibus   pauca 

lubjicienda. 

Studfofi 


HENTZNER's   Travels.      63 

Chrift's  Church,  the  largeft  and  moft 
elegant  of  them  all,  was  begun  on  the  ground 
of  St.  Fridefwide's  Monaftery  by  Thomas 
Wolfey  Cardinal  of  York  ;  to  which  Henry 
VIII.  joined  Canterbury  College,  fettled 
great  revenues  upon  it,  and  named  it  Ch rift's 
Church  :  The  fame  great  Prince,  out  of  his 
own  treafury,  to  the  dignity  of  the  town, 
and  ornament  of  the  univerfity,  made  the 
one  a  Bifhoprick,  and  inftituted  Profeflbr- 
fliips  inthe other, 

Jefus  College,  built  by  Hugh  Price  Doc- 
tor of  Laws. 

That  fine  edifice,  The  Public  Schools, 
was  entirely  raifed  by  Queen  Mary,  and 
adorned  with  various  infcriptions. 

Thus  far  of  the  Colleges  and  Halls,  which 
for  the  beauty  of  their  buildings,  their  rich 
endowments,  and  copious  Libraries,  excel! 
all  the  Academies  in  the  Chriftian  world. 
We  fliall  add  a  little  of  the  Academies  them- 
felves,  and  thofe  that  inhabit  them. 

Thefe 


64    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Stucnofi  vitam  fere  Monaflic^m  clegunt ; 
ficut  enim  in  Monafteriis  olim  Monachi  nul- 
Jis  aliis  rebus  erant  intenti  5c  occupati,  quam 
lit  ftdtis  horis,  precibus  ad  Deum  fufis,  re- 
llquum  tempus  bonis  artibiis,  &  ftudiis  ho- 
neftis  impenderent,  ita  &  hos  facere  oportet. 
Dividuntur  porro  in  tres  Menlas  :  Ad  pri- 
inam,  quae  Sociorum  Menfa  dicitur,  admit- 
tuntur  Comites,  Barones,  Nobiles,  Do6tores 
.&  Magiilri,  kd  horum  pauciffimi,  latiufque 
&  libcralius  quam  reliqui  tra<5lantur  5  Secun- 
da  Menfa  eft  Magiftrorum,  Baccalaureorum, 
nobilium  quoque  &  Civium  honoratiorum ; 
Tertia  Plebeiorum,  &  inferioris  conditionis 
hominum.  Dum  reliqui  prandent  vcl  coenant, 
quod  fit  in  coenaculo  fatis  amplo,  ubi  omnes 
iimul  congregantur,  quidam  ex  ftudiofis  in 
facris  Bibllis  legit,  quae  pulpito  in  centro  fere 
cosnaculi  collocato  funt  jmpofita,  atque  hoc 
ledlurre  onus  fubire  folent  ftudiofi  omncs  vici- 
"bus  alternis ;  Gratiis,  fumto  prandio,  vel 
ccena  abfoluta,  aftis,  quilibet  in  fuum  Mu- 
feum  vel  cubiculum  fe  confert,  aut  in  hortos 
^djunftos  exfpatiatur,  quos  ad  omnia  Colle- 
' gia 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        64. 

Thefe  Students  lead  a  life  almoft  Monaflic  ; 
for  as  the  Monks  had  nothing  in  the  world 
to  do,  but  when  they  had  faid  their  prayers 
at  ftated  hours,  to  employ  themfelves  in  in- 
ftru6liv^e  ftudies,  no  more  have  thefe.  They 
are  divided  into  three  Tables  :  The  firft  is 
called  the  Fellows  Table,  to  which  are  ad- 
mitted Earls,  Barons,  Gentlemen,  Doftors, 
and  Maftcrs  of  Arts,  but  very  few  of  the 
latter  ;  this  is  more  plentifully  and  expenfive- 
ly  ferved  than  the  others  :  The  Second  is  for 
Mafters  of  Arts,  Bachelors,  fome  Gentle- 
men, and  eminent  Citizens  :  The  Third  for 
people  of  low  condition.  While  the  reft  are 
at  dinner  or  fupper  in  a  great  Hall,  where 
they  are  all  aflembled,  one  of  the  Students 
reads  aloud  the  Bible,  w^hich  is  placed  on  a 
defk  in  the  middle  of  the  Hall,  and  this 
office  every  one  of  them  takes  upon  himfelf 
in  his  turn  ;  as  foon  as  Grace  is  faid  after 
each  meal,  every  one  is  at  liberty,  either  to 
retire  to  his  own  chambers,  or  to  walk  m 
the  College   garden,    there  being  none  that 


r€5    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

gia  habent  amceniifimos.  Veftitus  cum  Je- 
ruitariim  ferme  congruit,  etenim  togis  fuiit 
induti  longis  ad  talos  ufque  demiilis,  aliquan- 
do  pellibus  fufFultis,  pileos  gerunt  quadran- 
gulares ;  Dodores  vero,  Maglftri,  &  illi, 
qui  Praeceptorum  aut  Profefforum  munere 
funguntur,  peculiaribus  utuntur  togis,  ut  a 
reliquis  dignofcantur :  Ad  Bibliothecam  irt 
unoquoque  Collegio  quilibet  Studiolus  pro- 
veclioris  aetatis  habet  clavem. 

Confpiciuntur  in  angulo  quodam  oppidi  ru- 
dera  arcis  fatis  ampla^,  fed  penitus  dirut^. 
In  coena  fuimus  excepti  mufica  excellentif- 
fima,  variis  &  diverfis  ex  inftrumentis  con- 
cinnata. 

Poflridie  exfpatiati  fumus  ad  Arcem  Regiam 
WooDSTOCKE,  ubi  Ethelredus  Anglia*  rex 
olim  Ordinum    conventum    habuit    &    leo-es 

o 

tulit.  Eft  haec  arx  magnificentiae  plena,  ab 
Henrico  I.  Angliae  rege  conftrucla  ;  qui  etiam 
vivarium  ampliilimum,  faxeo  muro  cindlum, 
adjunxit,    quod  primum  in   Anglia  vivarium 

fuifle 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        6j 

has  not  a  delightful  one<  Their  habit  is  al- 
moft  the  fame  as  that  of  the  Jefuits,  their 
gowns  reaching  down  to  their  ancles,  fome- 
times  lined  v/ith  furr;  they  wear  fquare  caps ; 
the  Doftors,  Mafters  of  Arts,  and  ProfefTors, 
have  another  kind  of  gown  that  diflinguiflies 
them :  Every  Student  of  any  confiderable 
ftanding  has  a  key  to  the  College  Library, 
for  no  College  is  without  one. 


In  an  out  part  of  the  town  are  the  remains 
of  a  pretty  large  fortification,  but  quite  in 
ruins.  We  were  entertained  at  fupper  with 
an  excellent  concert,  compofed  of  variety  of 
inflruments. 


The  next  day  we  went  as  far  as  the  Royal 
Palace  of  Woodstock,  where  king  Ethel- 
red  formerly  held  a  Parliament,  and  enacted 
certain  Laws.  This  palace  abounding  in 
magnificence  was  built  by  Henry  L  to  which 
he  joined  a  very  large  park,  enclofed  with  a 
T  wall. 


66    HENTZNERI   IriNERARitrM. 

fuffle  fcribJt  Joannes  Roflus.  In  hac  ipfa  arce 
regrna  Anglrae  Elifabetha,  quae  nunc  rerum  po- 
titur^  antequam  Turn  Londinenfi  includere- 
tur,  a  Maria,  forore  captiva  fuit  detenta,  quae 
cum  in  maximo  vit^e  verfaretur  difcrimlne, 
carbone  rithmos  quofdam  Anglicos  a  fe  com- 
pofttos  feneftrse  ligneas  propria  manu  infcrip- 
fit,  quorum  fenfus  in  fubfequentibus  verficu- 
lis  utcunque  videtur  expreflus  : 

O  Fort  UNA  !  tuum  jemper 'variahile  numen 
Implevit  curis  animum  mordacihus  agrum ; 
Career  hie  eji  tejlh^  qui  gaud'ia  eunSia  removit'^^ 
Sap}  tetris  miferos  tenfajii  fohere  vinells  : 
Et  fervare  tihi  innocuos  jujiijjima  cur  a. 
Sed  tamen  i?ide  ttto  fallaci  fidere  vento 
Nulli  eonfultum  puto  ;  nam  mutarrs  in  horas  ; 
TTandem  fova  Fatery  qm  fervantijjimm  aquiy 
Et  fcelerumvindex  es  jiifiusj  tela  ret imde 
In  im  niijfay  mcis  inimieis  lance  repende 
Mqud  'y  fac  videam  prcpriis  cpntraria  vctis, 

ELISABETHA   Captiva. 

A,  D.    M.D.LV, 

Non; 


HENTZNER's  Travels.  .     66, 

wall,  according  to  John  Rofle  the  firft  park 
in  England,  In  this  very  palace  the  prefent 
reigning  queen  Elizabeth,  before  fhe  vi^as 
confined  to  the  Tower,  was  kept  prifoner 
by  her  fifter  Mary;  while  flie  was  detain- 
ed here  in  the  utmoft  peril  of  her  life,  fhe 
wrote  with  a  piece  of  charcoal  the  follow- 
ing verfes,  compofed  by  herfelf,  upon  a  win- 
dow-fhutter : 

O  Fortune  !  how  thy  refllefs  waverhig  Jlate 

Hath  fraught  with  cares  my  troubled  wit ! 
JVitnefs  this  prefeiit  prifon  whither  Fate 

Hath  horn  incy  and  the  joys  I  quit. 
Thou  caufedeji  the  guilty  to  be  loofed 
From  bandsy  wherewith  are  innocents  inclofed\ 
Caujing  the  guiltlefs  to  bejirait  referved^ 
And  freeing  thofe  that  death  had  well  defer ved  : 
But  by  her  envy  can  be  nothing  wrought^ 
So  God  fend  to  my  foes  all  they  have  thought, 

ELIZABETH  Prisgnter. 

/f.  D.    U,D.LV. 


T  2  Not 


6;    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Non  procul  ab  hac  arce  videntur  rudera 
nedium,  cum  fonte  fcaturientis  aquae  puriflimo, 
Rolamundae  ClifFordlae,  quam  Henricus  II. 
rex  Anglire  propter  eximiam  &  liberalem  for- 
mam  adeo  deperiit,  ut  ejus  pulchritudo  omnes 
alias  ex  ipfius  animo  deleret  mulleres  ;  quae 
tandem  enecata  fuIlTe  dicltur  veneno  a  regis 
uxore.  Tumuli  reliquiae  ex  lapide,  charac- 
teribus  pene  corruptis,  (unt  hse : 

******  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  Adorent 
Utque  tibi  detur  requies  Roiamunda  precamur. 

Monachus  quidam  hoc  rilhmicum  ci  fecit 
epitaphium  : 

Hie  jacet  in  tumbdRofa  mundi  non  Rofamunda, 
Non  redolet  fed  olct,  quae  redolcre  folet. 

Reverfi  hinc  Oxonium,  a  prandio  iter  nof- 
trum  ulterius  fumus  profecuti,  &  New- 
helm,  Arcem  Regiam,  in  qua  pauperes  ex 
regia  liberalitate  fuflentantur,   tranfivimus. 

NiTTKLBETT,    pagUS. 

Henley, 


HENTZNER's    Travels.        67 

Not  far  from  this  palace  are  to  be  {gcti 
near  a  fprlrig  of  the  brighteft  water  the 
ruins  of  the  habitation  of  Rofamond  ClifFord, 
whofe  exqulfite  beauty  fo  entirely  captivated 
the  heart  of  kino;  Henrv  II.  that  he  loft  the 
thought  of  all  other  women ;  fhe  is  faid 
to  have  been  poifoned  at  laft  by  the  Queen. 
All  that  remains  of  her  tomb  of  ftone,  the 
letters  of  which  are  almoft  worn  out,  is  the 
line  on  the  oppofite  page.  *  *  *  * 

The  rhiming  epitaph,  following  likev/ife 
on  the  oppofite  fide,  was  probably  the  per- 
formance of  fome  monk. 

Returning  from  hence  to  Oxford,  after 
dinner  we  proceeded  on  our  journev,  and 
paffcd  through  Ewhelme,  a  Royal  Palace, 
in  which  fome  alms-people  are  fupported  by 
an  allowance  from  the  crown. 

Nettlebed,  a  village. 

We 


68    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Henley,  oppidulum  tranfivimus ;  hie 
colles  Chilternici  per  pet  uo  dorfo  in  Aquilo- 
nem  procurrunt,  &  Oxonienfem  agrum  a 
Buchinghamienfi  difterminant. 

Madenhood,  vicum  tranfivimus. 

ViNDESORiUM,  vulgo  ViNsoRE,  Regium 
in  Anglia  Caflrum,  Arturi  regis  tempore  pri^ 
ma  fundatione  conftruftum  putatur,  ac  de- 
inde  ab  Edvvardo  TIL  multis  aedificiis  adauc- 
tum,  fitu  gaudet  peramoeno,  ut  certe  amoenio- 
rem  fedes  regia  vix  habere  poffit.  Clemen- 
ter  enimex  aedito  colle  jueundiffimo  in  agrum 
planum  atque  compafcuum  fruitur  confpeiSu  ; 
a  fronte  vallem  defpeclat  longe  lateque  pro- 
currentem,  arvis  •  diftin6lam,  pratis  viridan- 
tcm,  nemoribus  hinc  inde  veftitam,  &  placid 
difiimo  Thamefi  irriguam ;  a  tergo,  colles 
paflim  afTurgunt,  nee  afperi  nee  praealti, 
faltibus  coronati,  &  venationi  a  Natura  ipfa 
quafi  dicati. 

Hac 


HENTZNER^s  Travels.         68 

We  went  through  the  little  town  of  Hen- 
ley j  from  hence  the  Chiltern  hills  bear 
North  in  a  continued  ridge,  and  divide  the 
counties  of  Oxford  and  Buckingham, 

We  pafied  Maidenhead. 

Windsor,  a  Royal  Caftle,  fuppofed  to 
have  been  begun  by  king  Arthur,  it's  buildings 
much  encreafed  by  Edward  III.  The  fitua- 
tion  is  entirely  worthy  of  being  a  royal  re- 
fidence,  a  more  beautiful  being  fcarce  to  be 
found  :  For  from  the  brow  of  a  gentle  rifing 
it  enjoys  the  profpecl  of  an  even  and  green 
country  j  it's  front  commands  a  valley  ex- 
tended every  way,  and  chequered  with  arable 
lands  and  pafturage,  cloathed  up  and  down 
with  groves,  and  watered  by  that  gentleft 
of  rivers  the  Thames;  behind  rife  feveral 
hills,  but  neither  fteep,  nor  very  high,  crown- 
ed with  woods,  and  feeming  defigned  by 
Nature  herfelf  for  the  purpofe  of  hunting. 

The 


69    HENTZNERI  Itij^erarium. 


Hac  loci  amoenltate  pelle6ll  reges  faepiilime 
hue  fecedunt ;  et  hie  ad  Galliam  vincendani 
liatus  eft  Edvvardus  III.  Angliae  rex  potentifli- 
mus,  qui  hoc  Caftrum  quafi  urbis  aemulum, 
foilis  &  propugnaculis  ex  quadrato  faxo  muni- 
tifHmum  de  integro  conftruxit,  ftatimque  de- 
bellato  Gallo  &  Scoto^  Joannem  regem  Gal- 
liae,  &  Davidem  Scotise  in  hoc  captivos 
uno  eodemque  tempore  detinuit.  Porro  Caf- 
trum hoc  praeter  regiam  fedem,  &  magnifica 
regum  fepulchra,  Garretteriorum  fodah'um 
caeremonid  celeberrimum  eft  -,  haec  autem 
Equeftris  focietas  ab  Edvvardo  III.  qui  a 
Joanne  Gallorum  rege  capto  fpeciofiflime 
triumphavit,  eft  inftituta.  Sunt  vero  Garet- 
terii  Equites  bellied  virtute  vetuftatequc  na^ 
talium  ledifTimi  duces,  qui  folemni  facramen^^ 
to  adadli,  mutuse  perpetuaeque  amieiti^, fe 
devovent,  nee  ad  tuendum  collegii  decus  no- 
bili  confpiratione  quodvis  periculum  ad  ire,  nee 
fubire  mortem  recufant;  Garetterii  autem 
Sodales  ob  id  appellantur,  quod  finiftri  cruris 
furam  fibulato  baltheolo,    vel    caeruled  perif- 

celide. 


HENTZKTER's   Travels.       6g 

The  kings  of  England,  invited  by  the  deli- 
cioufnefs  of  the  place,  very  often  retire  hither  ; 
and  here  was  iDorn  the  conqueror  of  France, 
the  glorious  king  Edward  III.  who  built  the 
Caftle  new  from  the  ground,  and  throughly 
fortified  it  with  trenches,  and  towers  of  fquare 
ftone,  and  having  foon  after  fubdued  in 
battle  John  king  of  France,  and  David  king 
of  Scotland,  he  detained  them  both  prifoners 
here  at  the  fame  time.  This  Caftle  bcfides 
being  the  royal  palace,  and  having  fome 
rtiagnificent  tombs  of  the  kings  of  England, 
fs  famous  for  the  ceremonies  belonging  to 
the  Knights  of  the  Garter  ;  this  Order  was 
inftituted  by  Edward  III.  the  fame  who  tri- 
umphed fo  illuftrioufly  over  John  king  of 
France.  The  Knights  of  the  Garter  are 
ftriiSUy  chofen  for  their  military  virtues,  and 
antiquity  of  family:  They  are  bound  by 
folemn  oath  and  vow  to  mutual  and  perpe- 
tual friendfhip  among  themfelves,  and  to  the 
not  avoiding  any  danger  whatever,  or  even 
death  itfelf,  to  fupport  by  their  joint  endea- 
vours the  honour  of  the  Society  :  They  are 
U  ftiled. 


70    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium, 

celide,  unde  &  Equcftris  Perlfcelidls  Ordo 
dicitur,     aureis      litteris    Gallice     infcripta  ; 

HONI  SOIT  qui  MAL  II  PENSE,  hoc  eft, 
Ignomima  afficiatur^  qui  male  cogitat :  Sinif- 
tram  tibiain  fubftringunt,  in  memoriam  cali- 
gariae  fafciolae,  quae  iiluftri  Foeminae,  ab  Ed- 
vvardo  flagranter  adamatae,  dum  ea  choream 
faltaret,  foluto  forte  nodo  deciderat,  eamque 
rex  i[>fe  repente  fuftulerat,  ut  in  honorem 
mulierls,  non  amatoria  vanitate,  fed  gravi  & 
maxime  honefta  ratione,  infignium  procerum 
tibiis  dicaretur.  Ejus  autem  Collegii  caere- 
monia  Vindeforii  quotannis,  ftato  die  D» 
Georgio  Cappadoci  Equitum  tutelari  dedi- 
cate, praefidente  Rege,  celebratur,  mofque 
eft,  ut  Sodales  galeam  &  fcutum,  cumgen- 
tilitiis  infignibus,  confpicuo  templi  loco,  fuf- 
pendant, 

Tres-  prsecipuas  areas  latas  &  amplas  Caf- 
trum  hoc  Vindiforium,  non  fine  grata  fpec- 
tantium  voluptate  oftentat :  Quarum  priori 
nitidiHimis  ex  candido  faxo,  fuperne  planis, 
plumboque  contedlis  sedifieiis  cinda,  Garet- 

teriis 


'    HENTZNER's   Travels.        70 

ffiled,  Companions  of  the  Garter,  from  their 
wearing  below  the  left  knee  a  purple  garter, 
infcribed  in  letters  of  gold,  with  HoNi  soiT 
QUI  MAX  Y  PENSE,    i,  e.    Evil  to  hm  that 
Evil  thinks  :  This  they  wear  upon  the  left  leg, 
in  memory  of  one  which  happening  to  un- 
tie,   was  let  fall  by  a  great  Lady,   pafTionately 
beloved  by  Edward,   while  fhe  was  dancing, 
and  was  immediately  fnatched  up  by  the  king ; 
who  to  do  honour  to  the  lady,  not  out  of  any 
trifling  galantry,   but  with  a  moft  ferious  and 
honourable    purpofe,     dedicated    it    to     the 
legs  of  the  moft  diftinguifhed  nobility.     The 
ceremonies  of   this    Society    are    celebrated 
every    year  at  Windfor   on  St.  George's  day, 
the  tutelar   Saint   of  the  Order,    the  King 
prefiding  ;     and    the    cuftom    is,     that    the 
Knights   Companions   fhould  hang  up  their 
helmet  and  iheild,  with  their  arms  blazoned 
on  it,  in  fome  confpicuous  part  of  the  Church. 

There  are  three  principal  and  very  large 

courts  in  Windfor  Caftle,  which   give  great 

pleafure  to  the  beholders  :    The  firft  is   en- 

clofed  with  moft  elegant  buildings  of  white 

U  2  ftone 


71     HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

teriis    Equltibus    hofpitia    praebet ;    habetquc 
infularem  in  medio  domum,  praecelfa   Turri 
conrpicuam,   quam  Gubernator  Praefedlufque 
Caftri    inhabjtat ;    in  ea  publica  eft   culina, 
fuppelle6tili  rcburquc  culinariis   atque  domef- 
ticis  iiiftrufta.  Si  fpaciofurn  triclinium,  in  quo 
Equites    communi   quotidie     menfa    utuntur. 
Ad  hanc  autem  Garetteriam  focietatem  Angliae 
rex    &  Gubernator    idoneas     pro    voluntate 
fua  perfonas  dcligit ;  quas  nobili  ex  parentela 
tertio  propinqujtati?  gradu  efTc  oportet,  qui- 
que   ob    grav^iorem  aetatem,    reique  famiiiaris 
anguiHas,     precibus    Deo    ofFcrendis,    quam 
bellicis    tumultibus    magii^   habentvir    idonei ; 
fingulis  penfionis  annuae  xviii.  librae  denarii 
V.   aflignantur,    &  veftis  5    hujus   autem  tarn 
magnificae   fundationis   praecipuum  inftitutum 
eft,  ut  pro  incolurpitate  regis,  &  pro  felici  ad- 
miniftratione    regni,    quotidianas    ad    Deum 
preccs  fundant;  hinc  rebus  divinis  vacant,  & 
bis  quotidie  ad  Sacellum,  orationis  gratia  con- 
yeniunt  :  Haec  ctiam  area  ad  laevam  magni- 
fied   ftru{Sl:ura   exornatur,   Sacello  pcraugufto 
ex XXIV,  paflu3  longo,  &  xvi.  lato ;    in  quo 
pro    Equitum    numero    xviii.     Subfellja    a 

temporibus 


HENTZNER's   Travels.      71 

ftonc,    flat   roofed,    and  covered   with  lead ; 
here  the  Knights  of  the  Garter  are  lodged ; 
in  the  middle  is   a  detached  houfe,    remark- 
able for  its  high  tower,   which  the  governor 
inhabits.     In  this  is  the.  public  kitchen,  well 
furniflied  with  proper  utenfils,    befides  a  fpa- 
cious  dining-room,  where  all  the  poor  Knights 
cat  at  the  fame  table,    for  into  this  fociety  of 
the  Garter,   the  King  and  Sovereign   elects, 
at  his  own  choice,   certain  perfons  who  muft 
be  gentlemen  of  three  defcents,  and  fuch  as 
for  their  age  and  the  ftraitnefs  of  their  for- 
tunes, are  fitter  for  faying  their  prayers,  than 
for  the  fervice  of  war  y  to  each  of  them  is 
afligned  a  penfion   of   eighteen  pounds  per. 
annum  and   cloaths  ;  the  cheif  inflitution  of 
fo   magnificent   a   foundation   is,     that  they 
fhould  fay  their  daily  prayers  to  God  for  the 
King's  fafety,    and  the  happy  adminiftration 
of  the  Kingdom,    to  which  purpofe  they  at- 
tend the  fervice,    meeting  twice  every  day  at 
Chapel.     The  left  fide  of  this  court  is  orna- 
mented   by  a  rriofl-    magnificent    Chapel    of 
one  hundred  and  thirty-four  paces  in  length, 
and'  fixteen  in  breadth  5    in  this  are  eighteen 

feats 


72    HENTZNERI  Itinerarwm. 

temporibus  Edvvardi  III.  parata  habentur. 
Eftque  asdicula  hrec  facra  magiiificis  regum 
monumentis  decorata  Edvvardi  IV.  Hen- 
rici  VI.  Sc  VIII.  ejufque  conjugis  reginae 
Jcannae.  Sacellum  hoc  regia  liberalitatc  do- 
tatum  2000  libras  annuatim  habet,  qui  qui- 
dem  proventus  Edvvardi  III.  &  Hcnrici  VII. 
regum  rhuhificentia  plurimum  funt  adaucSli. 
Caeterum  in  banc  Perifcelidis  ordinis  focieta- 
tem  potentiflimi  quique  orbis  Chriftiani 
Principes  cooptari  inftar  maximi  honoris 
duxerunt,  &  jam  a  prima  inftitutione,  in 
hunc  ordinem,  qui  e  xxvi.  Equitibus  con- 
ftat,  reges  adfcripti  fuerunt  plus  minus  xx. 
prater  Anglian  reges,  qui  ejufdem  Prefides 
habentur,  ut  Duces  &  alii  maximi  nominis 
taceantur  plurimi. 

In  Choro  Sacelli  interiore  videntur  infig- 
nia,  gladii  &  vexilla  xvi.  fufpenfa,  inter  quae 
funt  Caroli  V.  &  Rudolphi  II.  Imperatorum  ; 
Philippi  Hifpaniarum ;  Henrici  III.  Galli- 
arum ;  &  Friderici  11.  Daniae  regum,  iffc, 
Cafimiri  Palatini  Comitis  ad  Rhenum,  iffc. 
aliprumque  orbis   Chriftiani   Principum,    qui 

in 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        72 

feats  fitted  up  In  the  time  of  Edward  III. 
for  an  equal  number  of  Knights  :  This  ve- 
nerable buildino;  is  decorated  with  the  noble 
monuments  of  Edward  IV.  Henry  VI.  and 
VIIL  and  of  his  wife  queen  Jane.  It  re- 
ceives from  royal  liberality  the  annual  income 
of  two  thoufand  pounds,  and  that  ftill  much 
encreafed  by,  the  munificence  of  Edward  III. 
and  Henry  VII.  The  greateft  Princes  in 
Chriftendom  have  taken  it  for  the  higheft 
honour  to  be  admitted  into  the  Order  of  the 
Garter;  and  fince  it's  firft  inftitution  about 
twenty  Kings,  befides  thofe  of  England, 
who  are  the  Sovereigns  of  it,  not  to  mention 
Dukes  and  perfons  of  the  greateft  figure,  have 
been  of  it.  It  confifts  of  twenty-fix  Corn-* 
panions. 

In  the  inward  Choir  of  the  Chapel  are 
hung  up  fixteen  coats  of  arms,  fwords  and 
banners,  among  which,  are  thofe  of  Charles 
V.  and  Rodolphus  II.  Emperors  ;  of  Philip 
of  Spain  ;  Henry  III.  of  France  ;  Frederic 
11.  of  Denmark,  i^c,  of  Cafimir  CoUnt 
Palatine  of  the  Rhine  ;  and  other  Chriftian 
Princes,  who  have  been  chofen  into  this  Order, 

In 


;j    HENTZNERI  Itinerarii/m. 
in    hunc    Perifcclidis    Ordiriem    funt    coop- 


tati. 


In  Choro  pofteriore  vel  appendice  hujus 
Sacelli  monftrabantur  nobis  praeparamenta 
quasdam  ad  fepulchrum  magnificentifTimum 
Cardinalis  Wolfaei  poftea  capite  plexi ;  funt  in 
ambitu  viii.  magnae  column^e  ex  orichalco ; 
proptus  ad  tumulum  iv.  in  formam  candela- 
brorum  fa6lae ;  tumulus  ipfe  ex  marmore 
candido  &  nigro,  iffc.  quae  omnia,  uti  fama 
eft,  in  fepulturam  reginae  Elifabethae  aflervan- 
tur,  fumtus  in  banc  rem  jam  fa6li  aeilimantur 
ultra  60,000  auri  libras.  Confpicitur  de- 
inde  in  Sacello  toga  equeftris  Edwardi  IIL 
item  epitapbium  Edwardi  Finii  Lincolniae 
Comitis,  Clintoniae  &  Saiae  Baronis,  inclyti 
Perifcelidis  Ordinis  militis  &  fummi  quondam 
Admiralis. 


Altera  cditiore  in  loco  Arcis  Windeforii 
Area  validiflimis  cin6la  murris,  turri  &  mag- 
nificis  aedificiis  clara,  vetus  quondam  Caftrum 

fuit. 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        73 

In  the  back  Choir,  or  additional  Chapel, 
are  fhewn  preparations  made  by  Cardinal 
Wolfey,  who  was  afterw^ards  *  capitally 
punifhcd,  for  his  own  tomb  ;  confiding  of 
eight  large  brazen  columns  placed  round  it, 
arid  nearer  the  tomb  four  others  in  the  (hape 
of  candlefticks,  the  tomb  itfelf  is  of  white 
and  black  marble ;  all  which  are  referveJ 
according  to  report  for  the  funeral  of  queen 
Elizabeth,  the  expences  already  made  for  that 
purpofe  are  eftimated  at  upwards  of  60,000  /. 
In  the  fame  Chapel  is  the  furcoat  f  of  Ed- 
ward IIL  and  the  tomb  of  Edward  Fines  Earl 
of  Lincoln,  Baron  Clinton  and  Say,  Knight 
of  the  moft  noble  Order  of  the  Garter,  and 
formerly  Lord  High  Admiral  of  England. 

*  This  was  a  Jlrange  blunder  to  be  made  fa 
near  the  timej  about  fo  remarkable  a  perfon^  un-^ 
lefs  he  concluded  that  whoever  dlfpleafed  Hemy 
VIIL  was  of  courfe  put  to  death, 

\  This  is  a  mifiake  ;  it  was  the  furcoat  of  Ed- 
ward IV*  enriched  with  rubies^  and  was  pre^ 
Jerved  hen  till  the  civil  war. 

X  The 


74    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

fuitj  de  quo  hunc  In  modum  veterum  an- 
nales  :  Anno  Domini  1359,  rex  Edvvardus 
incepit  novum  aedificium  in  Caftello  de  Win- 
defore,  ubi  natus  fuerat,  ob  quam  caufam 
ilium  locum  amplioribus  aedificiis  &  fplendi- 
dioribus  decorare  prse  caeteris  procuravit.  In 
hac  Caftri  regione  Joannes  Galliae  rex,  & 
David  rex  Scotlae^  de  quibus  uno  eodemque 
tempore  Edvvardus  III.  magnifice  triumph- 
avit,  tenebantur  captivi ;  quorum  confilio, 
ob  jucundam  loci  amoenitatem,  &  fumtibus 
ob  fui  redemptionem  hoc  Caftrum  in  earn 
magnificentiam  paulatim  excrevit,  ut  non- 
arx,  fed  juftae  magnitudinis  &  humanis  prae- 
fidiis  inexpugnabile  oppidum  videatur.  Et 
haec  quidem  Caftri  regio,  folius  Scotias  regis^ 
unica  excepta  Turri,  fumtibus  conftrufta  eft^ 
quam  quia  Wincheftorlae  Epifcopus  Soda- 
litii  equeftris  Praelatus  condldit,  Wirichef- 
trise  Turrim  appellitant.  Haec  gradus  ha- 
bet  c.  ea  oplficum  induftria  perfecStos,  ut 
facilem  equis  afcenfum  praebeant ;  cl.  paf* 
•fus  in  ambitu  continet.     In  ei  omne  armo^ 

rum 


HENTZNER's  Travels,        74 

The    fecond    Court    of    Windfor  Caftle 
ftands  upon  higher  ground,  and  is   enclofed 
with  walls  of  great  ftrength,  and  beautified 
with  fine  buildings,  and  a  Tower  ;  it  was  an 
antient  Caftle,  of  which  old  annals  fpeak  in 
,thjs   manner;    King  Edward,  A.  D.    1359, 
began  a  new  building    in   that  part  of  the 
Caftle  of  Windfor  where  he  was  born,    for 
which  reafon   he  took  care  it  fhould  be  de- 
corated with  larger  and  finer  edifices  than  the 
reft ;  in  this  part  were  kept  prifoners  John 
king   of  France,    and  David  king  of  Scots, 
over  whom  Edward  triumphed  at  one  and  th^ 
fame  time  :    It  was  by  their   advice,    ftruc|c 
with   the   advantage   of   it's    fituation,     an^ 
with  the  fums  paid    for   their   ranfom,    that 
by  degrees  this  Caftle  ftretched  tp  fuch  mag- 
nificence,  as  to  appear  np  longer  a  fortrefs, 
but  a  town  of  proper  extent,  and  inexpugna- 
ble to  any  human  force ;  this  particular  part 
of  the  Caftle  was  built  at  the  fole  expence  of 
the  king  of  Scotland,    except    one    Tow^r^ 
which  from  it's  having  been  erefted  by  the 
Bifliop  of  Winchefter,    Prelate  of  the  Order, 
X  2  is 


75    HENTZNERI  iTiKr.RARiuM. 

rum  genus,  ad  arcis  defenfionem  neceflarium, 
affervatur. 


Tertia  demum  celcbernmi  Windeforii 
Caflri  area  longe  amplIiTima,  captlvi  Gallo- 
rum  regis  impenrarum  fumtiblus  adificata, 
ut  editlore  fitu,  ita  elegahtia  atque  nitore 
priores  longe  fuperat ;  ea  cxlviii.  paffuum 
longitudine,  &  xcvii.  pafUbus  In  latum 
protenditur  ;  in  medio  fontem  limpidifTmiae 
aqucT?,  per  occultos  terrae  ineatu?,  quatuor 
milliarium  fpatio,  maximis  fumtibus  deduc- 
tum,  oftcntatj  fumtuofiflimis  infiiper  a^difi- 
ciis  claula,  qua  orlentem  fpe^flat,  regiae 
nobilitati  tefta  praebet ;  meridiem  verfus 
Sphasriflerium  habet  aullcae  recrcationi  def- 
tinatum  j  Septentrlonale  vcro  latus  decenter 
exornat  domus  regia,  magnificis  coenaculis, 
aulis  &  hypocauftis,  privatoquc  Sacello,  cu- 
]us  concameratio  fuperior  rofis  &  liliis  deau- 
ratis  eft  diftincla ;  in  eo  quoque  amplifli- 
ma  iila  ccenatio  conipicitur    lxxviii.  pafius 

longa, 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       75 

is  called  Winchefler  Tower  *,  there  are  a  hun- 
dred fteps  to  it,  fo  ingenioufly  contrived,  that 
horfes  can  eafily  afcend  them  ;  it  Is  an  hundred 
and  fifty  paces  in  circuit ;  within  it  are  preferv- 
ed  all  manner  of  arms  neceflary  for  the  de- 
fence of  the  place. 

The  third  Court  is  much  the  largcil  of  any, 
built  at  the  expence  of  the  captive  king  of 
France ;  as  it  ftands  higher,  fo  it  greatly  ex- 
cels the  two  former  in  fplendor  and  elegance ; 
it  has  one  hundred  and  forty-eight  paces  in 
length,  and  ninety-feven  in  breadth  ;  in  the 
middle  of  it  is  a  fountain  of  very  clear  water, 
brought  under  ground  at  an  exceilive  expence 
from  the  diftanceof  four  miles  :  Towards  the 
Eaft  are  magnificent  apartments  deftined  for 
the  royal  houfhold ;  towards  the  Wefl:  is  a 
tennis-court  for  the  amufement  of  the  court; 
on  the  North  fide  are  the  royal  apartments, 
confifting  of  magnificent  chambers,  halls,  and 
t  bathing- rooms,  and  a  private  Chapel,  the 
*  This  is  confoujided  with  the  round  tower, 
t  li  ^^  not  clear  what  the  author  means  by  hy- 
pocauftis  ;  I  have  tranjlated  it  hathing-rooms -y  it 
might  mean  only  chambers  withjioves,  roof 


76    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

longa,  lata  vero  xxx.  in  qua  folemni  & 
peringenti  facrorum  }3ompa,  annuam  D. 
Georgii  tutelaris  memoriam  Garetterii  E- 
quites  celebrant. 


Inde  CCCLXXX.  pafllis  longa,  feptem  ve- 
ro lata  ambulatio  incredibili  venuftate  fe 
oiFert  fulcimentrs  llgneis  undequaque  con- 
fcpta,  quae  nobilibus  magnificifque  viris 
fuftentacula  praebet,  ut  inde  venationes,  & 
falconum  aucupia  in  area  admodum  lata 
confpiciant ;  nam  prata  ac  pafcua  vario  her- 
barum  ac  florum  gencre  veftita,  peren- 
ni  viriditate  collibus  ad  Caftrum  ufque  leni- 
ter  intumefcunt,  deinde  in  iibratam  plani- 
tlcm,  maxima  fpecSantium  voluptate,  kk 
oftcndunt. 


Praeter  jam  commemorata,  notatu  quoque 
digna  funt ;     i.  hypocaufta  duo  fpeculis  con- 
ftrata,    &   incruftata  ;    2.  cubiculum  in   quo 
*  natus  eft  Hcnricus  VI.  Angliae  rex  5    3.    cu- 
biculum 


HENTZNER's  Travels-        76 

roof  of  which  is  embellifhed  with  golden 
rofes  and  fleurs  de  lis  ;  in  this  too  is  that  very- 
large  banquetting-room,  feventy-eight  paces 
long,  and  thirty  wide,  in  which  the  Knights 
of  the  Garter  annually  celebrate  the  memory 
of  their  tutelar  faint,  St.  George,  with  a 
folemn  and  moil  pompous  fervice. 

From  hence  runs  a  walk  of  incredible 
beauty,  three  hundred  and  eighty  paces  in 
length,  fet  round  on  every  fide  with  fupporters 
of  wood,  which  fuftain  a  balcony,  from 
whence  the  nobility  and  perfons  of  diftinclion 
can  take  the  pleafure  of  feeing  hunting  and 
hawking  in  a  lawn  of  fufEcient  fpace  ;  for  the 
fields  and  meadows  clad  with  variety  of  plants 
and  flowers,  fwell  gradually  into  hills  of  per- 
petual verdure  quite  up  to  the  Caftle,  and  at 
bottom  ftretch  out  in  an  extended  plain,  that 
ftrikes  the  beholders  with  delight. 

Befides  what  has  been  already  mentioned, 
there  are  worthy  of  notice  here  two  bathing"- 
rooms,  cieled  and  wainfcotted  with  looking- 
glafs  ;  the  chamber  in  which  Henry  VI.  wa5 
born  J  queen  Elizabeth's  bed-chamber,  where 

.is 


77    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

biculum  reginae  Elifabethas,  in  quo  menfa  eft 
marmore  rubro  candid  is  fibris  afperfo  ;  4.  xyf- 
tus  figuris  &  emblematibus  gypfo  impreffis  un- 
dequaque  ornatus ;  5.  cubiculum,  in  quo 
regii  ledi  cubiculares  funt  Henrici  VII.  & 
uxoris  ipfius,  Edvvardi  VI.  Henrici  VIII. 
Annae  Boleniae,  qui  omnes  in  longitudinem 
&  latitudinem  xi.  fere  habent  pedes,  tapetig 
auro  &  argento  fulgentibus  inftrati ;  Elifa- 
bethae  quoque  reginas  le£tus  variis  tegumen- 
tis,  &  ftragulis  acu  pi6lis  adornatus,  fed  non 
tarn  longus  &  largus  ut  caeteri ;  tapetum  in 
quo  repraefentatur  Clodoveus  Gallias  rex  cum 
Angelo  florem  liliorum  ipfi  porrigente,  ut 
CO  pro  infigniis  uteretur ;  etenim  Gallias  reges 
antea  tres  in  fcuto  habebant  bufones,  in  quo- 
rum locum  tria  lilia  aurei  colons,  in  cam- 
po  cqeruleo,  repofuerunt ;  atque  hoc  tapetum 
vetuftiiTimum  regi  Galliae  ereptum  effe  dici- 
tur,  turn  temporis,  cum  Angli  Gallia  poti- 
rentur;  monftrabatur  hie  inter  caetera  nobis 
monocerotis  cornu,  in  longitudine  8  2  fpi- 
thamas  excedens,  valoris  100,000.  librar- 
auri;  avis  paradifi  tres  fpithamas  longa, 
tres  vero  digitos  crafla,  roftrum  habens  coeru- 

leum. 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       77 

is  a  table  of  red  marble  with  white  ftreaks ; 
a  gallery  every  where  ornamented  v/ith  em- 
blems and  figures  ;    a  chamber  in  which  are 
the  royal  beds  of  Henry  VII.  and  his  queen, 
of  Edward  VI.  of  Henry  VIIL  and  of  Anne 
Bullen,  all  of  them  eleven  feet  fquare,    and 
covered  with  quilts  fhining  with  gold  and  fil- 
ver ;    queen  Elizabeth's    bed,    v/ith    curious 
coverings  of  embroidery,  but  not  quite  fo  long 
or  large  as  the  others  ;    a  piece  of  tapefliy,  in 
which  is  reprefented  Clovis,  king  of  France, 
with  an  Angel  prefenting  to  him  the  fleurs  de 
lis,  to  be  born  in  his  arms  ;    for  before  his  time 
the  kings  of  France  bore  three  toads  in  their 
fneild,     inftead     of    which    they    afterwards 
placed  three  fleurs  de  lis  on  a  blue  field  ;    this 
antique  tapeftry  is  faid  to  have  been  taken  from 
a  king  of   France,   while  the  Englifli  were 
matters  there.     We  were  fliewn  here  among 
other  things  the  horn  of  a  unicorn,  of  above 
eight  fpans  and  a  half  in  length,    valued  at 
above  10,000  A  ;    the  bird  of  paradife,    three 
fpans  long,  three  fingers  broad,  having  a  blue 
bill  of  the  length  of  half  an  inch,  the  upper 
part    of  it's  head  yellow,    the    nether    part 
Y  of 


78    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

leum,  fefqui  artrculum  digiti  longum,  fupe- 
rior  capitis  pars  colons  lutei,  inferior  autem 
optici ;  inferius  fub  gula  plumas  utrinque  ex- 
ertae  coloris  fubrubei  funt,  quemadmodum 
&  In  dorfb  &  reliquo  corpore,  alarum  longitu- 
do  coloris  lutei  duplo  maior  eft  ipfa  ave,  fu- 
pra  dorfum  eminent  juxta  avis  longitudinem 
duae  utrinque  fibrae  aut  nervi,  quorum  extre- 
mitas  major  fili  craffioris  formam  habct,  colo- 
ris plumbei,  &  ad  nigredinem  vergentis,  qui- 
bus,  cum  pedibus  careat,  quiefcere  volens  ar- 
boribus  inhserere  dicitur  :  Pulvinar  a  regina 
Elifabetha  artificiofiflime  propria  manu  con- 
textum. 


E  regione  Vindiforii  trans  Thamefim,  cu- 
jus  utraque  ripa  ponte  ligneo  hie  conjungitur, 
-^TONA  cernitur,  Collegium  nitidum,  &  li- 
terarum  humaniorum  celebre  Gymnafium,  ab 
Henrico  VI.  conftruftum,  in  quo  praeter  Prae- 
fe<aum,  Socios  viii.  &  Cantores,  puerl  fexa- 
ginta  gratuito  aluntur :  Grammaticam  docen- 
tur,  &  tamdiu  in  hoc  gymnafio  commorantur, 
donee  explorata  ingeniorum  fagacitate,,  &  fac- 
to 


HENTZNER's    Travels.        78 

^f  a  *  *  *  *  colour  1 5  a  little  lower  from 
either  fide  of  it's  throat  ftick  out  fome  redifh 
feathers,  as  well  as  from  it's  back  and  the  reft  of 
it's  body  ;  it's  wings  of  a  yellow  colour  are 
twice  as  long  as  the  bird  itfelf ;  from  it's  back 
grow  out  length  ways  two  fibres  or  nerves, 
bigger  at  their  ends,  but  like  a  pretty  ftrong 
thread,  of  a  leaden  colour,  inclining  to  black, 
with  which,  as  it  has  no  fect^  it  is  faid  to 
faften  itfelf  to  trees,  when  it  wants  to  reft : 
A  cufhion  moft  curioufly  wrought  by  queen 
Elizabeth's  own  hands* 

In  the  prccindls  of  Wind  for,  on  the  other 
fide  the  Thames,  both  whofe  banks  are  joined 
by  a  bridge  of  wood,  is  Eton,  a  well  built 
College,  and  famous  School  for  polite  letters^ 
founded  by  Henry  VI.  where  befides  a  Mafter, 
eight  Fellows  and  Chanters,  fixty  Boys  are 
maintained  gratis  :  They  are  taught  Gram- 
mar, and  remain  in  the  fchool,  till  upon 
trial  made   of  their  genius  and   progrefs   in 

t  The  original  is  optici ;  //  is  impojjibje  U 
^uefs  what  colour  he  meant. 

Y  2  ftudv. 


79    MENTZNERI   Itinerakium. 

to   in  ftudiis  progreflu  in  Academiam  Canta- 
brigienfem  mittantur.  > 

Cum  hinc  ad  diverforium  noftrum  revertere- 
mur,  foFtc  fortuna  incidimus  in  rujiicos  fpici- 
legla  fua  celebr antes ^  qui  ultimam  frugum  vc- 
hem  floribus  coronant,  addita  imagine  fplcn- 
dide  veftita,  qua  Cererem  forfitan  fignificare 
volentes,  earn  hinc  inde  movent,  &  magno 
cum  clamore  viri  juxta  ac  muiieres,  fervi 
atque  ancillae  currui  infidcntcs  per  plateas 
vociferantur,  donee  ad  horreum  deveniant : 
-  Agricorsfe  fruges  hie  non  in  manipulos,  uti 
apudnos  fieri  confuevit,  colligunt,  fed  ftatim, 
quam  primum  refeci^t^  vel  demeffe  funt,  ear- 
ns imponunt,  &  in  horrea  fua  convehunt. 

Stanes,  vicum  tranfivimus. 

Hamptok-Court,  Arx  Regia,  ex  coSth 
lateribus  a  Thoma  Wolfaeo  Cardinale  ad  opes 
fuas  oflcntandas  magnifice  extrucSa,  quae 
quinque  peramplas  areas,  cultiflimis  aedificiis 
cin£las,    opere   admodum    fpeciofo    includit : 

Ad 


HENTZNER's   Travels.      79 

ftudy,     they    are   fent    to  the   Univerfity  of 

Canibrido-e. 


As  we  were  returning  to  our  inn,  we  hap- 
pened to  meet  fome  country  people  celebrating 
their  Harvejl-hoine ;  their  lafl:  load  of  corn 
they  crown  with  flowers,  having  befides  an 
image  richly  drefled,  by  which  perhaps  they 
would  fignify  Ceres,  this  they  keep  moving 
about,  while  men  and  women,  men  and  maid 
fcrvants,  riding  through  the  flreets  in  the  cart, 
fhout  as  loud  as  they  can  till  they  arrive  at  the 
barn  :  The  farmers  here  do  not  bind  up  their 
corn  in  fheaves,  as  they  do  with  us,  but  di- 
rc(5Wy  as  they  have  reaped  or  mowed  it,  put  it 
into  carts,  and  convey  it  into  their  barns. 

We  went  through  the  town  of  Staines. 

Hampton-Court,  a  Royal  Palace,  mag- 
nificently built  with  brick  by  Cardinal  Wolfey 
in  oftentation  of  his  wealth,  where  he  en- 
clofed  five  very  ample  courts,  confifting  of 
noble  edifices  in  very  beautiful  work :    Over 

the 


8o    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Ad  portam  fecundae  are^e  eft  aurea  Rofa,  cum 
fymbolo  Reginae,    Diet;  et  mon  Droist  : 
Ex  altera  parte,  interiore  nempe,    hujus  por- 
tae,      funt     xii.    imperatorum     Romanorum 
effigies  ex  gypfo.      Area  Ipfa  primaria  lapide 
quadrato  conftrata  eft,  in  cujus  centro  fons 
falientis  aquae,  corona  deaurata  ftatuae  Juftitiae 
fubpofita  te6tus  confpicitur,    quam  columnae 
ex  marmore  albo  &  nigro  fuftinent.     Sacellum 
arcis  fplendidifTimum  eft,    in    cujus  fuperiori 
parte    Regia  fedes  tota  tranfparet  &  pellucet 
a   feneftris   criftallinls.      Dedu6li    fuimus    in 
,  Cameras  duas,    quas  pr^efentationem  vel  au- 
.  dientiae  vpcant  fplcndentes  tapetis  aureis,  ar- 
^enteis   &  fericis  diverfi   coloris;    fub  regio, 
five  majeftate  ex  margaritis  hae  voces   erant 
confutae  j     Vivat  rex  Henricus  VIIL       Eft  ibi 
quoque  parvum  Sacellum  tapetis  fplendide  or- 
natum,  in  quo  Reglna  facra  tra6tare  folet.     In 
cubiculo   Reginae  leilus    preciofiilimis  ftragu- 
lis  fericis  crat  coopertus  :    Non  procul  abhinc 
vidimus  Ic&um,  cujus  conopcea  Anna  Bolonia 
.  texuit,    &  Henrico  VIII.  Angli  regi  marito 
ilio  donavit.     Omnia  rcliqua  conclavia,  quo- 
rum 


.HENTZNER's   Travels.       So 

the  gate  in  the  fecond  area  is  the  Queen's 
device,  a  golden  Rofe,  with  this  motto, 
DiEU  ET  MON  Droit  :  On  the  inward 
lide  of  this  gate  are  the  effigies  of  the  twelve 
Roman  emperors  in  plaifter.  The  cheif  area 
is  paved  with  fquare  ftone,  in  it's  center  is  a 
fountain  that  throws  up  water,  covered  with 
a  gilt  crown,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  ftatue 
of  Juftice,  fupported  by  columns  of  black 
and  white  marble.  The  Chapel  of  this  palace 
is  mod  fplendid,  in  which  the  Queen's  clofet 
is  quite  tranfparent,  having  it's  windovi^s  of 
chryftal.  We  were  led  into  two  chambers, 
called  the  prefence,  or  chambers  of  audience, 
which  fhone  with  tapeftry  of  gold  and  filvcr 
and  fdk  of  different  colours  ;  under  the  cano- 
py of  ftate  are  thefe  words  embroidered  in 
pearl,  Vtvat  Henricus  Oclavus.  Here  is  be- 
fides  a  fmall  Chapel  richly  hung  with  tapeftry, 
where  the  Queen  performs  her  devotions.  In 
her  bed-chamber  the  bed  was  covered  with  very 
coftly  coverlids  of  filk  :  At  no  great  diftance 
from  this  room  we  were  fhewn  a  bed,  the 
teaftef  of  which  was  worked  by  Anne  Bullen^ 

and 


8i     HENTZNERI  Itinerariua^. 

rum  funt  plurima,  tapetis  artificiofifiime  ex 
holoferlco  diverfi  colons,  auro  &  argento  tex- 
tis,  quibus  ex  parte  hiftoriae  funt  inipreffc,  ex 
parte  habitus  Turcici  5c  Americani  ad  vivum 
repraefentati,  erant  adornata. 


In  atrio  hsec  vifu  digna  : 

'  Speculum  pellucidum,  imagunculis  &  co- 
lumn is  ex  alabaftrite  fa6lis  ornatum  ;  effigies 
Edvvardi  VI,  regis  Angliae  fratris  Elifabethab 
reginae ;  vera  Lucretise  effigies ;  cum  pugna 
Papienfi  depi(Sa  ;  hiftoria  paffionis  Chrifti  ex 
cochleis  margaritarum  fculpta ;  vera  Mariae 
Stuartae  Scotiae  reginae  fecuri  percufTae,  ejuf- 
demque  filiae  imago  i  effigies  Ferdinandi  Prin- 
cipis  Hifpaniarum,  Philippi  filii ;  &  Henrici 
VIII.  Angliae  regis,  fub  cujus  pi<Sura  Biblia 
facra  eleganter  in  membranam  fcripta  erant 
collocata ;  fphaera  artificial  is ;  varia  inftru- 
menta  mufica  ;  tapetia  in  quibus  iEthiopes 
elephantibus  infidentes  repraefentantur.  Leftus 
in  quo  natus  perhlbetur  Edvvardus  VI.  matrc 
puerpera  Semeria  in  eodcm  morte  extinfta ; 

In 


.HENTZNER's   Travels.       8i 

and  prefented  by  her  to  her  hufband  Henry 
VIII.  All  the  other  rooms,  being  very  nu- 
merous, are  adorned  with  tapeftry  of  gold, 
filver,  and  velvet,  in  fome  of  which  were 
woven  hiflory  pieces  -,  in  others,  Turkiih  and 
American  dreffes,  all  extremely  natural. 

In  the  Hall  axe  thefe  curiofities  : 
A  very  clear  looking-glafs,  ornamented  with 
columns  and  little  images  of  alabafter  ;  a  por- 
trait of  Edward  VI.  brother  to  queen  Eliza- 
beth ;  the  true  portrait  of  Lucretia  ;  a  pi6lure 
of  the  battle  of  Pavia  ;  the  hiftory  of  Chrift's 
paflion,  carved  in  mother  of  pearl  j  the  por- 
traits of  Mary  queen  of  Scots,  who  was  be- 
headed, and  her  *  daughter  j  the  picture  of 
Ferdinand  Prince  of  Spain,  and  of  Philip  his 
Son ;  that  of  Henry  VIII.  under  it  was 
placed  the  Bible  curioufly  written  upon  parch- 
ment y  an  artificial  fphere  j  feveral  mufical  in- 
ftruments  ;  in  the  tapeftry  are  reprefentcd  ne- 
groes riding  upon  elephants.  The  bed  in  which 
Edward  VI.  is  faid  to  have  been  born,  and 

*  Here  are  feveral  mjlakes* 

Z  '  wher<? 


82    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

In  cubiculo  quodam  tapetia  erant  ditiffima, 
quae  parietibus  affigi  folent,  quando  legati  pe- 
i'egrini  ad  reginam  admittuntur;  multa  ibi- 
dem pulvinaria,  auro  &  argento  decorata,  mul- 
tae  veftes  ftraguLr,  &  tegumenta  ledlorum, 
pellibus  ermelinis  fuffulta  ;  omnia  denique  ta- 
bulata  per  totam  arcem  auro  et  argento  ful- 
gentia.  Porro  eft  quoddam  in  hac  arce  con- 
clave, quod  Paradifus  appellatur,  in  quo  prae- 
terquam  quod  omnia  &  auro  argento  atque 
gemmis  ita  refplendent,  ut  oculos  hebetent, 
eft  inftrumentum  muficum  totum  vitreum, 
folis  chordis  aut  fetis  exceptis.  IntroduiSi 
poftea  in  hortos  amcenlinmos,  vidimus  rofma- 
rinum  ita  parietibus  implantatum  &  applica- 
tum,  ut  cos  omnes  pene  contegeret,  ^ftque 
hsec  rofmarini  fruticis  plantatio  in  Anglid  fre- 
quentifTima. 

Kingston,  vicusj- 

Nonesuch  aut  Nonesutsch,  ut  nos 
pronunciamus,  Secefius  Regius,  quern  mag- 
nificentifTimus  rex  Henricus  YIII.  in  loco 
f^luberrimo,  prius  Cuddington  dido,   de- 

litiis 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       8a 

where  his  mother  Jane  Seymour  died  in  child- 
bed ;  in  one  chamber  were  feveral  excelGively 
rich  tapeftries,  which  are  hung  up  when  the 
Queen  gives  audience  to  foreign  ambafiadors ; 
there  were  numbers  of  cufhions  ornamented 
with  gold  and  filver  ;  many  counterpanes  and 
coverlids  of  beds  lined  with  ermine  ;  in  fliort 
all  the  walls  of  the  palace  fhine  with  gold  and 
filver.  Here  is  befides  a  certain  cabinet  called. 
Paradife,  where  befides  that  every  thing  glit- 
ters ib  with  filver,  gold  and  jewels,  as  to 
da:izle  one's  eyes,  there  is  a  mufical  inftru- 
ment  made  all  of  glafs,  except  the  firings. 
Afterwards  we  were  led  into  the  gardens, 
which  are  moft  pleafant,  here  we  favv  rofemary 
fo  planted  and  nailed  to  the  walls  as  to  cover 
them  entirely,  which  is  a  method  exceeding 
common  in  England. 

Kingston,  a  market  town. 

Nonesuch,  a  Royal  Retreat,  in  a  place 

formerly  called  Cuddington,  a  very  health-^ 

ful  fituation,  chofen  by  king  Henry  VIII.  for 

his  pleafure  and  retirement,    and  built  by  him 

Z  2  Wit^ 


8 J    HENTZNERl   Itinerarium. 

litiis  &  otio  fuo  deftinavit,  tantaque  magnifi-^ 
ceiitia  &  elegantiii  exftruxit,  ut  ad  oftentationis 
arcem  afpiret ;  &  omnem  architedonices  peri- 
tiani  in  uno  hoc  opere  coacervatam  exiftimes  : 
Tot.fuiit  ubique  fpirantia  figna,  tot  abfolutac 
artjs  miracula  &  Romaiiae  aiitiquitatis  aemula 
opera  ex  gy pfo  afFabre  favSla,  ut  optimo  jure 
hoc  fuuni  iiomeii  habeat  &  tueatur,  quod 
Latlne  ut  nonnullis  placet,  Nulli  fecunda, 
ibnat,  vel  ut  alius  cecinit  5 

Hanc^  quia  non  haheai  fanilem^  laudare  Britanni 
ScEpe  folent^  Nulllque  parem^  cognoinine  dicunt, 

jEdes  vero  ipfas,  fic  circumcingunt  vivaria, 
damis  rcferta,  horti  delicati,  luci  topiario 
opcre  exoriiati,  areolae  5c  ambulacra  fic  arbori- 
bus  obumbrata,.  ut  non  aliam  fibi  fedem  ipfa 
Ammutas^  ubi  cum  Salubritate  una  cohabitet, 
dekgifle  videatur. 


In  hortis  voluptuariis  h  artificialibus  mul- 
t.t  funt  columnae  U  pyramides  marmoreae ; 
fontes  itidem  lalientis -aquae  duo,  alter  forma 

rotunda, 


HENTZNER's    Travels.        8f 

with  an  excefs  of  magnificence  and  elegance, 
c\'en  to  oftentation  ;  one  would  imagine  every 
thing  that  archite£ture  can  perform  to  have- 
been  employed  in  this  one  v/ork  :  There  are 
every  where  fo  many  ftatues  that  feem  to 
breath,  fo  many  miracles  of  ccnfummate  art, 
fo  many  cafts  that  rival  even  the  pcrfe6tion  of 
Roman  antiquity,  that  it  may  well  claim  and 
juftify  it's  name  of  Noncfuch,  being  v/ithout 
an  equal  ^  or  as  the  Poet  fung, 

77;/i  which  no  equal  has  in  art  or  fame ^ 
Britons  defervedly  do  Nonefuch  name. 

The  palace  itfelf  is  fo  -encom.pafTed  with 
parks  full  of  deer,  delicious  gardens,  groves 
ornamented  with  trellis  work,  cabinets  of 
verdure,  and  walks  fo  embrowned  by  trees, 
that  it  feems  to  be  a  place  pitched  upon  by 
Pleafure  herfelf,  to  dwell  in  along  with 
Health, 

In  the  pleafure  and  artificial  gardens  arc 
many  columns  and  pyramids  of  marble,  two 
fountains  that  fpout  water  one  round  the  other 

like 


«4    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

rotunda,  alter  pyramidis  inftar,  cui  avieulae  in- 
cident aquam  exfpuentes  :  In  luco  Dianae,  in 
quo  fons  artificialis  eft  vifu  admodum  jucun- 
dus,  Aftaeoa  afperfione  dearum  in  cervum 
ti'anfnmtatur,  additis  infer iptionibus* 

Videtur  poftea  alia  quoque  pyramis  marmo- 
rea,  ex  qua  uiidiquaque  fiftulae  exeunt ;  quafc 
©bviantes  afpergunt. 

Reverfi  hinc  Londinum. 


B  R  E  V  I  s 

A     N     G      L     I     JE 

D  E  S  C  R  I  P  T  I  O. 


BRITANNIA,  quje  hodie  Anglia, 
Sc  Scotia  duplici  nomine  appellator,  Sc 
duo  in  ie  regna  continet,  totius  noftri  orbis  in- 
sula maxima  eft,  &  oceano,  mari  Germanico 
$c  Gallico  ambitur :    Pars  hujus  maximae  & 

Auftralior 


HENTZNER's   Travels.      84 

like  a  pyramid,  upon  which  are  perched  fmall- 
birds  that  ftream  water  out  of  their  bills  :  In 
the  grove  of  Diana  is  a  very  agreeable  foun- 
tain, with  Aclaeon  turned  into  a  ftag,  as  he 
was  fprinkled  by  the  goddefs  and  her  nymphs, 
with  infcriptions. 

There  is  befides  another  pyramid  of  marble 
full  of  concealed  pipes,  which  fpirt  upon  all 
who  come  within  their  reach. 

Returned  from  hence  to  London'. 
A   Short 

DESCRIPTION 

O  F 

E    N    G    L    A    N    D* 

BRITAIN,  confifting  of  the  two  king-*, 
doms  of  England  and  Scotland,  i** 
the  largeft  ifland  in  the  world,  encompafled. 
by  the  ocean,  the  German  and  French  feas  ft#: 
The  largeft  and  Southern  part  of  it  is  Eng-n 

land; 


85    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 

Auftralior  nunc  Anglia,  ab  Anglls^  qui  tX 
provlnciola  regni  Danix,  quae  hodie  Angel 
nuncupatur,  progreffi  earn  occuparunt,  fic  de- 
nominatae,  proprium  habet  Regem,  qui  praster 
Deum,  fuperiorem  non  agnofcit.  Divifa  eft 
regio  in  xxxix.  Comitatus,  quibus  xiii.  in 
Wallla  ^djunxit  Henricus  VIII.  Anglic  rex, 
qui  primus  earn  regionem  in  Comitatus  dil- 
tribuit :  In  hifce  Comitatibus  difficilioribu« 
temporibus  prgefedlus  regius,  quern  Lieute- 
nant vocant,  ne  quid  detriment!  capiat  refpub- 
lica,  conftituitur.  Singulis  vero  annis  nobili* 
quidarh  ex  incolis  prseficitur,  quern  vice  Co- 
mitem,  quafi  Comitis  vicarium  vocant ;  eju« 
eft  publicas  pecunias  provincial  fuse  conquirere, 
mulctas  irrogatas,  vel  captis  pignoribus  colli- 
gere  &  aerario  inferre  ;  Judicibus  pr^efto  adefle, 
Sc  eorum.mandata  exequi  5  duodecim  viros  co- 
gere,  qui  in  caufis  <le  hS:o  cognofcunt,  &  ad 
Judices  referunt  ( Judices  enim  in  Anglia 
Juris  folum,  non  favSli,  junt  Judices)  condem- 
natos  ad  fupplicium  ducere  &  in  minoribut 
litibus  cognofcere  ;  in  majoribus  autem  jus 
dicunt  Juftitiarii,  quos  olim  itinerantes,  nune 
Juftitiarios  ad   aftifas  vocant,    qui   quotannis 


HENTZNER's   Travels.       i^ 

land,  fo  named  from  the  Angli,  who  quitting 
the  little  territory  yet  called  Angel  in  the 
kingdom  of  Denmark,  took  pofTeflion  here. 
It  is  governed  by  it's  own  King,  who  owns  no 
fuperior  but  God.  It  is  divided  into  39 
Counties,  to  which  13  in  Wales  were  added 
by  Henry  VIIL  the  firft  who  diftributed  that 
Principality  into  Counties  ;  over  each  of  thefe 
in  times  of  danger  a  Lord  Lieutenant,  no- 
minated by  the  King,  prefides  with  an  un- 
limited power  :  Every  year  fome  gentleman, 
an  inhabitant  of  the  place,  is  appointed 
Sheriff,  his  office  is  to  colleft  the  public 
monies,  to  raife  fines,  or  to  make  feizures, 
and  account  for  it  to  the  Treafury,  to  attend 
upon  the  Judges,  and  put  their  fentence  in  exe- 
cution, to  em'pannel  the  Jury,  who  fit  uppn 
.  fa6ls,  and  return  their  verdict  to  the  Judges, 
(who  in  England  are  only  fuch  of  the  Law, 
and  not  of  the  Fa6t)  to  convey  the  condemn- 
ed to  execution,  and  to  determine  in  lefler 
caufes  ;  for  the  greater  are  tried  by  the  Judges, 
formerly  called  travelling  Judges,  now  Judges 
ef  affize  ;  thefe  go  their  circuits  through  the 
A  a  Counties 


86    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

hos  Comitatus  bis  obeunt^  ut  de  cauflis  cogriof-* 
cant,  &  de  incarceratis  fententiam  ferant.     * 

Quod  ad  Ecclefiafticam  Jurifdlftlonem  at- 
tinet ;  cum  Romani  Pontifices  Ecclefias  fingu- 
las  fingulis  prefbyteris  affignaflent,  &  paro- 
chias  eis  divifiilent,  Honorius  Archiepifcopus 
Cantuarienns,  circa  annum  a  falute  reparata 
636.  Angliam  primus  in  parochias  diflribuere 
cepit :  Quemadmodum  autem  duas  nunc 
Anglia  habet  Provincias,  fic  Archiepifcopos 
duos,  Cantuarienfem  nimirum,  totius  Angliae 
Primatem  &  Metropolitanum  ;  &  Eboracen- 
fem  ;  quibus  fubfunt  xxv.  Epifcopi ;  Cantua- 
rienfi  xxii.  Eboracenfi  tres  reliqui. 

Terra  eft  frugifera,  pecore  maxime  abun- 
dans,  quo  fit,  ut  incolae  quafi  plures  pecuarii, 
quam  aratores  fmt ;  quod  magis  ferme  pabulo 
quam  arvo  colendo  ftudeant ;  fic  ut  tertia  pro- 
pemodum  terrae  pas  tantum  pecori  reli6la  fit 
inculta.  Regio  eft  quocunque  anni  tempore 
temperatilTima,  atque  caeli  nulla  gravitas,  adeo 
ut  rari  fiiit  mcrbi,  .&  inde  minor  medicina?  ufijs 
quam  alibi.  Flumina  hie  admodum  rara  :  So- 
lum 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        86 

Counties    twice  every  year    to  hear   caufes, 
and  pronounce  fentence  upon  prifonejs. 

As  to  Ecclefiaftical  Jurifdiftion,  after  the 
Popes  had  affigned  a  church  and  a  parifh  to 
every  Prieft,  Honorius  Archbifhop  of  Canter- 
bury, about  the  year  636,  began  to  divide 
England  in  the  fame  manner  into  parifnes : 
As  it  has  two  Provinces,  fo  it  has  two  Arch- 
bifhops,  the  one  of  Canterbury,  Primate  and 
Metropolitan  of  all  England,  the  other  of 
York  ;  fubjefl:  to  thefe  are  25  Bifhops,  viz. 
22  to  Canterbury,  the  remaining  three  to 
York. 


The  foil  is  fruitful,  and  abounds  with  cattle, 
which  inclines  the  inhabitants  rather  to  feed- 
ing than  ploughing,  fo  that  near  a  third  part 
of  the  land  is  left  uncultivated  for  grazing. 
The  climate  is  moft  temperate  at  all  times, 
and  the  air  never  heavy,  confequently  maladies 
are  fcarcer,  and  lefs  phyfic  is  ufed  there  than 
any  where  elfe.  There  are  but  few  rivers  : 
Though  the  foil  is  produ61:ive  it  bears  no  wine, 
A  a  2  bu) 


87*  HENTZNERI  Itikerarium. 

lum  eft  fecundum,  fed  vinum  tellus  non  gig- 
nit,  verum  aliunde  nobiliilima  vina  important 
tur,  uti  funt,  Aurelianenfia,  Gafconica,  Rhe- 
nana,  Hifpanica.  Cerevifia  quae  ex  hordeo 
coquitur  maximo  in  ufu  eft,  optimique  faporis, 
fed  fortis,  &  quae  facile  eos  inebriat.  Colles 
paflim  multi,  nullis  arboribus  confiti,  neque 
aquarum  fontibus  irrigui,  qui  herbam  tenuifu- 
mam  atque  breviflimam  producunt,  quse  tamen 
ovibus  abunde  pabulum  fuppcdiat ;  per  eos 
ovium  greges  candidiflimi  vagantur,  quas  five 
cocli,  feu  bonitate  terrae,  niullia,  Sc  longe 
omnium  aliarum  regionum  tenuiflima  fcrunt 
veilera:  Hoc  vellus  vere  aureum  eft,  in  quo 
potiiUmum  infulanorum  divitiae  confiftunt ; 
nam  magna  Si  auri  &  argenti  copia  a  negotia- 
toribus  ejufmodi  inprimis  coemcndi  mercis  gra- 
tia, in  infulam  quotannis  importatur.  Canes 
prceftantiflimos  habet.  Fert  aurum,  argcntum, 
ftannum,  (ex  quo  vafa  domeftica  dii61:a  apud 
omnes  Europaeos  in  menfarum  ufu  argenteis 
fulgore  comp^rantur)  plumbum  &  ferrum,  fed 
ejus  exigua  copia  :  Equcs  parvos,  fed  celeres 
habct :  Vitriari^e  oiEcinae  permultae. 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        if 

but  that  want  is  fupplied  from  abroad  by  the 
beft  kinds,  as  of  Orleans,  Gafcon,  Rhenifh 
and  Spanifh.  The  general  drink  is  beer, 
which  is  prepared  from  barley,  and  is  excel- 
lently well  tafted,  but  ftrong,  and  what  foon 
fuddles.  There  are  many  hills  without  one 
tree,  or  any  fpring,  which  produce  a  very 
fhort  and  tender  grafs,  and  fupply  plenty  of 
food  to  fheep,  upon  thefe  wander  numerous 
flocks,  extremely  white,  and  whether  from 
the  temperature  of  the  air,  orgoodnefs  of  the 
earth,  bearing  fofter  and  finer  fleeces  than 
thofe  of  any  other  country  :  This  is  the  true 
Golden  Fleece,  in  which  confift  the  cheif 
riches  of  the  inhabitants,  great  fums  of  money 
being  brought  into  the  ifland  by  merchants, 
chiefly  for  that  article  of  trade.  The  dogs 
here  are  particularly  good.  It  has  mines  of 
gold,  filver,  and  tin,  (of  which  all  manner  o£ 
table  utenfils  are  made,  in  brightnefs  equal  to 
filver,  and  ufed  all  over  Europe)  of  lead,  and 
of  iron,  but  not  much  of  the  latter  :  The 
horfes  are  fmall  but  fwift  :  Glafs-houfes  arc  iji 
plenty  here. 

0/ 


88    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 


Z)^  MoRiBus  ANGLORUM. 

Sunt  Angli  graves  ut  Germani,  magnifici 
domi  forifque,  magna  aflecSlantium  famulorum 
agmina  fecum  trahunt,  quibus  in  finiftro  brav 
chio  fcuta  ex  argento  facSla  appendant,  &  non 
immerito  vexaritur,  illos  caudas  a  tergo  ha- 
bere :  In  faltationibus  &  arte  mufica  excellunt ; 
funt  enim  agiles  &  alacres,  licet  crafTiores  cor- 
poribus  quam  Galli ;  mediam  capitis  partem 
capillos  detondent,  utroque  latere  illaefo  ;  funt 
boni  nautae  &  infignes  pyratae,  aftuti,  fallaces, 
iz  furaces  ;  Londini  fmgulis  annis,  ultra  3^0, 
iicuti  vulgo  fcrtur,  fufpcnduntur  ;  decapitatio 
minoris  apud  ipfos  eft  infamiae,  quam  ftrangu- 
latio  ;  ire  prope  murum  honoratior  els  locus  ; 
frequens  falconum  &  accipitrum  apud  nobi- 
les  in  venationibus  ufus ;  in  edendo  civiliores 
Gallis,  parcius  utuntur  pane,  carnibus  verp 
largius,  quas  optime  aflant ;  in  potum  copiosq 
immittunt  faccarum;  tegumenta  le£lorum 
funt  tapctia,    etiam  apud   rufticos ;    laborant 

frequenter 


HENTZNER's   Travels. 


Of  the  Manners  ^/ //^^  ENGLISH. 

The  Englifh  are  ferious  like  the  Germans, 
lovers  of  ihew  ;  liking  to  be  followed  where- 
ever  they  go  by  whole  troops  of  fervants, 
who  wear  their  mafters  arms  in  filver,  faftened 
to  their  left  arms,  a  ridicule  they  defervedly 
lay  under  :  They  excell  in  dancing  and  mufic, 
for  they  are  a^live  and  lively,  though  of  a 
thicker  make  than  the  French  ;  they  cut  their 
hair  clofe  on  the  middle  of  the  head,  letting 
it  grow  on  either  fide  ;  they  are  good  failors, 
and  better  pyrates,  cunning,  treacherous,  and 
thievifh;  above  30®  are  faid  to  be  hanged 
annually  at  London  ;  beheading  with  them 
is  lefs  infamous  than  hanging ;  they  give  the 
wall  as  the  place  of  honour  ;  hawking  is  the 
general  fport  of  the  gentry ;  they  are  more 
polite  in  eating  than  the  French,  devouring 
lefs  bread,  but  more  meat,  which  they  roaft 
in  perfection  ;  they  put  a  great  deal  of  fugar 
in  their  drink ;  their  beds  are  covered  wuth 
tapeftry,  even  thofe  of  farmers  \  they  are  often 

molefted 


89    HENTZNEHI  Itikerarium. 

frequenter  lepra,  alba  vulgo  dicSla,  quam  pri- 
mi;  Normannorum  temporibus  in  An2:]iam 
irrepfilTe,  fama  eft ;  in  sedibus  duas  plaerun- 
que  conti<^nationes  habent,  excepto  Londino, 
iibi  tres  raro  quatuor  reperiuntur  ;  sedificant 
ex  ligno,  vcl,  qui  lautioris  funt  fortunae, 
ex  coclis  lateribus,  tedia  habent  dcprelTiora, 
qua:*,  ditiores  pi  umbo  tegunt. 

Sunt  potcntes  in  praeliis,  undiquaque  de- 
bellant  adverfarios,  nullumque  penitus  patiun- 
tur  jugum  fervitutis ;  dele6lantur  quoque  vzldh 
ibnitibus,  qui  ipfis  aures  implent,  uti  explo- 
fionibus  tormentorum,  tympanis  &  campana- 
rum  boat.!,  ita  iit  Londini  multi  qui  fe  in- 
cbriavcrint  turrem  unam  aut  alteram,  exer- 
dtii  caufa,  afcendant,  &  per  boras  aliquot 
campanis  fignum  dent.  Si  quern  exterum, 
egregid  forma  Si  ftatura  ornatum  vident,  do- 
lore  dicunt,  ^4od  non  fit  homo  Anglicus, 
vulgo  Englishman. 

FAMI- 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        89 

molefted  with  the  {curvy,  faid  to  have  £rft 
crept  into  Englajld  with^  the  Noritian  con- 
quefl ;  their  houfes  are  commonly  of  two 
ftories,  except  in  London,  where  they  are  of 
three  and  four,  though  but  feldom  of  four ; 
they  arc  built  of  Wood,  thofe  of  the  richer 
fort  with  bricks,  their  roofs  are  low^,  and 
where  the  owner  has  money,  covered  with 
lead. 

They  are  powerful  in  the  field,  fuccefsful 
againft  their  enemies,  impatient  of  any  thing 
like  flavery;  vadly  fond  of  great  noifes  that 
fill  the  ear,  fuch  as  the  firing  of  cannon^ 
drums,  and  the  ringing  of  bells,  fo  that  it  Is 
common  for  a  number  of  them,  that  have 
got  a  glafs  in  their  heads,  to  go  up  into  fome 
belfry,  and  ring  the  bells  for  hours  together, 
for  the  fake  of  exercife.  If  they  fee  a  foreigner, 
very  -well  made  or  particularly  ijandforae, 
they  will  fay,    It  is  a  pity  he  is  ?iot  an  Ekg- 

LISHMAN. 

B  b  Thel 


90    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 


F     A     M     I     L     I    ^ 


ILLUSTRES     IN 


A      N      G      L      I      A. 


^  ^  ^-r^  H  O  M  A  S  Howard,  Dux  Norfol- 
A     ciae,    &  Comes  Surriae,   haeredita- 
rius  Marefchallus  Angliae  ;  Ducatus  defit   ob 
perduellionem,  ille  capite  'auncAtus. 

t  Gray  Dux  SufFulciae,  fublatus  titulo  fub 
Maria- 

t  Phil.  Howard,  Comes  Arundel,  jure  ma- 
terno,  &  Surriae  paterno,  filius  fuperioris 
Ducis  Norfolciae,  damnatus  laefse  majeftati$ 
&  amifit  dignitates. 

Edwardus  Vere,  Comes  Oxonii,  eft  haere- 
ditarius  Camerarius  Angliae. 

*  ^a  defterunt  f  notavu 

Percy 


HENTZNER's  Travei.s.        90 
The  Illustrious 

FAMILIES  OF  ENGLAND 

*^npHOMAS    Howard,    Duke    of 
A     Norfolk,     hereditary    Marflial    of 
England  ;    the  Dutchy  is  extinft  for  rebel- 
ii6h,  the  laft  Duke  being  beheaded. 

t  Grey  Duke  of  Suffolk,  attainted  under 
queen  Mary. 

f  Philip  Howard,  Earl  of  Arundel,  in  hi« 
Mother's  right,  and  of  Surry  by  his  Father, 
Son  of  the  above-mentioned  Duke  of  Nor- 
folk, he  himfelf  condemned  for  high-treafon, 
and  his  titles  forfeited. 

Edward  Vere,  Earl  of  Oxford,  hereditary 
Chamberlain  of  England, 

*  Thofe  marked  with  a  f  are  extin^i^  or 
forfeited, 

B  b  2  Percy 


91     HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Percy  Conies  Northumbriae,  ortus  a  Du- 
cibus  Brabantias. 

t  Carolus  Nevill,  Comes  Weftmerland, 
exulat  in  Belgio,  bonis  &  dignitate  exutus  ob 
rebel  lionem. 

Talbott  Comes  Salopiae  Anglicc,  Shrerofbury, 

Gi'ay  Comes  Cantii,  exiguos  habet  reditus. 

S lanley  Gomes  Derbije,  &  Regulus  Mauaia?. 

Mannors  Comes  Rutlandiae^ 

Somerfet  Comes  Worceflri  je,  ortus  a  fpurio 
Sommerf :  familrce,  quae  fiirps  eft  e  regid 
PI  an  tag  in  a  tor  um  familid. 

ClifFord  Comes  Cumberland. 

Ratciiff  Comes  Safiexice. 

Haftingus  Comes  Huntington,  e  familia 
Eboracenfi  per  foeminam. 

Bourchier  Comes  Bath. 
«    t  Ambrcfms  Sutton,    alias  Dudley,  Comes 
V/arvvici,  obiit  fine  prole  ante  aliquot  annos. 

Wriothefly 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        91 

Percy  Earl  of  Northumberland,  defcended 
from  the  Dukes  of  Brabant. 

t  Charles  Ncvill  Earl  of  Weftmoreland, 
ban  idled  into  Holland,  and  deprived  of  his 
fortunes  and  dignities  for  rebellion. 

Talbot  Earl  of  Shrewfbury. 

Grey  Earl  of  Kent,  has  but  a  fmall  eftate. 

Stanley  Earl  of  Derby,  and  King  of  Man. 

Maimers  Earl  of  Rutland. 

Somcrfet  Earl  of  Worcefter,  defcended 
from  a  baftard  of  the  Somerfet  famib',  which 
itfelf  is  of  the  royal  family  of  the  Plantagenets. 

CliiFord  Earl  of  Cumberland. 
RatclifF  Earl  of  Sufl'ex. 

Haftings  Earl  of  Huntingdon,  of  the  line 
of  York,  by  the  Mother's  fide. 

Bourchier  Earl  of  Bath, 
t  Ambrofe  Sutton,  alias  Dudley,   Earl  of 
Warwick,  died  a  few  years  fuice  childlefs. 

Wriothe/ly 


gx    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Wriotheily  Comes  Southampton. 

Ruffel  Comes  Bedford. 

Herbert  Comes  Pembroke. 

t  Edward  us  Seymour,  Comes  Hertford, 
filius  Duels  Sommerfetti  capite  muldati  fub 
Edwardo  VI. 

t  Robertus  Sutton,  vel  Dudley,  Comes 
Leyceftriae,  frater  Warwicenfis,  obiit  ante 
aliquot  annos. 

Robertus  4'  Euvreux,  Comes  Effexius,  & 
Effuanus  in  Normandia,  creatus  hxreditarius 
Marefchallus  Angliae,   1598. 

Carolus  Howard,  e  familia  Ducum  Nor- 
folciae,  creatus  Comes  Notthingam  1597, 
Anglise  Ammiralleus,  &  Confdiarius  Regius, 

Fiefnes  Comes  Lincolnix. 

Broune  Vicecorncs  Montlfacuti. 

Howard,  e  familia  Ducum  Norfolciae,  Vice- 
comes  Bindon. 

Novil 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        92 

Wriothefly  Earl  of  Southampton. 

Ruffel  Earl  of  Bedford. 

Herbert  Earl  of  Pembroke. 

t  Edward  Seymour  Earl  of  Hertford, 
Son  of  the  Duke  of  Somerfet,  who  was  be- 
headed in  the  reio-n  of  Edward  VI. 

o 

t  Robert  Sutton,  or  Dudley,  Earl  of 
Leicefter,  Brother  of  the  Earl  of  Warwick^ 
died  a  few  years  ago, 

Robert  d'  Evereux  Earl  of  Eflex,  and  of 
Ewe  in  Normandy,  created  hereditary  Marfhal 
of  England,  in  1598. 

Charles  Howard,  of  the  Norfolk  family, 
created  Earl  of  Nottingham  1597^  Lord 
High  Admiral  of  England,  and  privy  Coun- 
fellor. 

Fiefnes  Earl  of  Lincoln. 

Brown  Vifcount  Montacute. 

Howard,   of  the  Norfolk  family,   Vifcount 

Bindon. 

Nevill 


93    HENTZNERI  rTiNERARiirM. 

Nevill  Aburgavcny  Baro ;  dc  hac  Biircnia 
jam  controvertitur. 

Touchet  Baro  Audley, 

Zouch  Baro  Zouch. 

Peregrinus  Berty,  Baro  Willoughby  de 
Erfby  &  Beake,  PrsefeJlus  Berv»  ok. 

Barckley  Baro  Barckley,  ex  antiqua  fami- 
lia  regum  Danias. 

Parckcr  Baro  Marley. 

t  Dacre  Baro  Dacre  de  Gyllefland,  va- 
cat  b?ec  Baronia. 

t  Baro  Dacre  ad  Aiiftrum,  obi  it  ante 
quatuor  annos,  Baronia  ad  filiam  pervenit. 

Brofze  Baro  Cobham,  Guardianus  quinquc 
portuum. 

Stafford  Baro  Stafford,  ad  inopiam  redaftus, 
hreres  eft  familiae  Ducum  Buckingbamei  ;  qui 
ha?reditarii  crant  Conneftabilcs  Angliae. 

Gr^j  Baro  Gray,  de  Wilton. 

Sorwpc 


HENTZIsPER's  Travels..      93 

Nevill  Baron  Abergavenny  ;  this  Barony 
is  controverted. 

Touchet  Baron  Audley. 

Zouch  Baron  Zouch* 

Peregrine  Bertie  Baron  Willoughby  of 
Erefby  and  Brooke,  Governor  of  Berwick. 

Berkley  Baron  Berkley,  of  the  antient  fa- 
mily of  the  kings  of  Denmark. 

Parker  Baron  Morley. 
t  Dacre  Baron  Dacre  of  Gyllelland,    this 
Barony  is  vacant. 

t  Dacre  Baron  Dacre  of  the  South,  he 
died  four  years  fince,  and  the  Barony  devol- 
ved to  his  daughter. 

Brook  Baron  Cobham,  Warden  of  the 
einque-ports. 

StaiFord  Baron  Stafford,  reduced  to  want,  he 
is  heir  to  the  family  of  the  Dukes  of  Bucking- 
ham, who  were  hereditary  Conftables  of  Eng- 
land. 

Gray  Baron  Gray  of  Wilton. 

C  c  Scroop 


94    HENTNERI  Itinerarium. 

Sorwpe  Baro  Sorwpe  de  Boulton. 

Subton  Baro  Dudley. 

Sturton  Baro  Stufton. 

t  Nevill  Baro  Latimer,  obiit  ante  aliquot 
annos  fine  niafculis  hxredibus,  de  Baronii 
controvertitur* 

Lumley  Baro  Lumley. 

Blunt  Baro  Montjoy. 

Ogle  Baro  Ogle. 

Darcy  Baro  Darcy. 

Parcker  Baro  Mountegele,  filius  &  hacrcs 
Baronis  Morley,  banc  Baroniam  habet  jure 
matris  e  familla  Stanley. 

Sandes  Buro  Sandes. 

Vaux  Baro  Vaux. 

Windfor  Baro  Windfor. 

Wentworth  Baro  Wentworth. 

Borough 


HENTZNER's   Travels.         94. 

Scroop  Baron  Scroop  of  Boulton, 

Sutton  Baron  Dudley. 

Stourton  Baron  Stourton. 

t  Nevill  Baron  Latimer,  died  fome  years 
fince  without  heirs  male,  the  title  contro- 
verted. 

Lumley  Baron  Lumley. 

Blunt  Baron  Montjoy. 

Ogle  Baron  Ogle. 

Darcy  Baron  Darcy. 

Parker  Baron  Montegle,  fon  and  heir  of 
Baron  Morley,  he  has  this  Barony  in  right  of 
his  mother,  of  the  family  of  Stanley. 

Sandys  Baron  Sandys. 

Vaux  Baron  Vaux. 

Windfor  Baron  Windfon 

Wentworth  Baron  Wentworth. 

C  c  2  Borouga 


95    HENTZNERI  ItiNERARiulk. 

EcroiighBaro  Borough,  ad  inopiam  redacSus. 

Baro  Mordant.      Baro  Evers* 

Bare  Rich.  Baro  Sheffield. 

Baro  North,  Confiliarius  regius  5c  Thefau- 
rarius  hofpirii  rcgii. 

Baro  Hundfdon,  Confiliarius  regius  &  Cu- 
bicularius  hofpicii  regii. 

Sackvill  Baro  Buckhurft,  Confiliarius  re- 
gius. 

Tho.  Cecil  Baro  Burghley,  filius  Thefau- 
rarii  Anglise. 

Cecil  Baro  Rofle,  Burghley  e  filio  nepos 
Thefaurarii  pronepos ;  adhuc  puer  habet  Ba- 
roniam  jure  matris,  filiae  Comitis  Rutlandiae. 

f  Howard  de  Matravcrs,  filius  Comitis 
Arundel,  adhuc  natal ib as  non  rcftituitur* 

t  Baro  Cheyny. 

Baro  Crqmv/el.      Baro  Wharton. 

Baro 


HENTZNER's   Travels.        gy 
Borough  Baron  Borough,  reduced  to  want. 
Baron  Mordaunt.     Baron  Eure. 
Baron  Rich.  Baron  Sheffield. 

Baron  North,  privy  Counfellor,  and  Trea- 
furer  of  the  Houfliold. 

Baron  Hunfdon,  privy  Counfellor,  and 
Lord  Chamberlain. 

Sackville  Baron  Buckhurft,  privy  Coun- 
fellor. 

Thomas  Cecil  Baron  Burleigh,  fon  of  the 
Treafurer. 

Cecil  Lord  Roos,  grandfon  of  the  Trea- 
furer, yet  a  child  ;  he  holds  the  Barony  in 
right  of  his  mother,  daughter  to  the  Earl 
of  Rutland. 

t  Howard  of  Maltravers,  fon  of  the  Earl 
of  Arundel,  not  yet  reftored  in  blood. 

f  Baron  Cheyny. 

Baron  Cromwell.      Baron  Wharton. 

Baron 


96    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Baro  Willoughby  de  Parham. 

t  Baro  Pagett,  cxulat  dignitate  exutus. 

Baro  Chandois.       Earo  St.  John, 

Baro  Delaware,  ipfius  majores  caeperunt 
fegem  GallivC. 

Baro,  Compton,  pene  omnia  diflipavlt. 
Baro  Norris. 

Tho.  Howard,  filius  fecundo  genitus  Ducis 
Norfolcii,  Baro  Audley  de  SafFronwalden,  jure 
materno. 

f  Gulielmus,  tertlus  Norfolcii  filius  ne- 
-que  Baro  eft,  neque  adhuc  natalibus  refti- 
tutus. 

HaSfenus  de  FamtUls  Ulujiribus. 

Navigio  Thamefl  fecundo  Londino  dif- 
ccfTimus  &  Greenwiciam,  arcem  regiam, 
^  dextra  reliquimus,  de  qua  fupra. 

Barcking, 


.  HENTZNER's  TriAVEiJs.        g& 

Baron  Willoughby  of   Parham. 

t  Baron  Pagett,  in  exile,  attainted. 

Baron  Chandois.       Baron  St.  John. ' 

Baron  Delaware,  his  anceftors  took  the  king 
of  France  prifoner* 

Baron  Compton,  has  fquandered  almoft  all 
his  fubflance. 

Baron  Norris. 

Thomas  Howard,  fecond  fon  of  the  Duke 
of  Norfolk,  Baron  Audley  of  Saffronwalden, 
in  his  mother's  right. 

t  William,  third  fon  of  the  Duke  of  Nor- 
folk, is  neither  a  Baron,  nor  yet  reftored  in 

blood. 

Thus  far  of  noble  Families. 

We  fet  out  from  London  in  a  boat,  and 
fell  down  the  river,  leaving  Greenwich^ 
which  we  have  fpoken  of  before,  on  the  right 
hand. 

Barking, 


§6    HENTZNERI   Itinerarium. 
Barcking,  vicus  a  finiftra  conrpectus.  ' 

GravesendA,  Anglins  oppidulum  portu 
commodo  celebre,  ad  quod  maximae  naves  ex 
Belgio  appellere  folent.  Hinc  cum  poftridie 
cymba  prcgrederemur  ulterius,  prius  nobllifs, 
Davidi  Strzielae  Boemo,  &  Thobise  Salandro 
inrpe6Lori  ipfius,  noftris  per  Galliam  &  An- 
liam  comitlbus  iridivifis,  qui  per  Belgium  in 
patriam  redire  cogitabant,  ultimum  vale  dixi- 
mus,  nobis  rurfum  in  Galliam  contendentibus  -, 
Deus  autem  ter  maximus  voluntati  ipforum 
rcfiirit ;  nam  adhuc  pr^efentibus  nobis,  opti- 
mum Strzielam  diarrhaea  correptum,  paucis 
pCiL  difccfium  noftruni  diebus,  uti  ex  literis 
Sal  and  ri  poftea  perccpimus,  Londini  febris  ar^ 
dens  extinxit. 

QiJiNCiCBURG,  Caftcllum  a  dextra  vidi- 
mus ;  inde  cum  paulo  ulterius  cffcmus  pro- 
grefii,  oftrea  in  ipfo  mari  in  noftro  confpeftu 
capiebantur,  qux  alibi  non  delicatiora  nee 
^plura,  tefte  Grtelio  in  Epitome  theatri  orbis 
terrarum  in  Anglia. 

WiTZSTEFFEL, 


HENTZNER's   Travels.         97 

Barking,  a  town  in  fight  on  the  left. 

Gravesend,  a  fmall  town,  famous  for 
the  convenience  of  it's  port,  the  largeft  Dutch 
(hips  ufually  call  here.  As  we  were  to  pro- 
ceed farther  from  hence  by  water,  w^e  took 
our  laft  leave  here  of  the  noble  Bohemian 
David  Strziela,  and  his  tutor  Tobias  Salan- 
der,  our  conftant  fellow-travellers  through 
France  and  England,  they  defigning  to  re- 
turn home  through  Holland,  we  on  a  fecond 
tour  into  France  ;  but  it  pleafed  Heaven  to 
put  a  flop  to  their  defign,  for  the  worthy 
Str/iela  was  feized  with  a  diarrhea  a  few  days 
before  our  departure,  and  as  we  afterwards 
learned  by  letters  from  Salander,  died  in  a  few 
days,  of  a  violent  fever  in  London. 

QuEENBOROUGH;    we   left  theCaflle  on 

.ourright  ^  a  little  farther  we  faw  the  Miing 

of  oyfters  out  of  the  fea,  which  are  no  where 

in    greater    plenty    or    perfection  j     witnefs 

Ortelius  in  his  Epitome,  &c* 

D  d  .  Whitstable, 


9»    HENTZNERI  lTrNER.ARit?M. 

WiTZSTEFFEL,  pagus,  hic  Jiavi  egreffi- 

Cantuarium,  ubi  fedes  Archlepifcopi  & 
Primatis  Angliae  eft,  oppidiim  pervetuftum, 
Romancx]ue  ibeculo  procul  dubio  illuftre, 
quod  alias  etiam  Canttjaria,  vulgo  Can*- 
TERBURY  dicitur,  pedkes  venimus. 

Duo  funt  hic  Monafteria  pene  contigua^ 
Chrifti  fcilicet,  &  D.  Auguftini,  utrumque 
aliquando  Monachis  ordiRi$  D.  Eenedicli  re- 
pletum ;  quorum  alterum,  Chrifti  nomine 
obliterato,  temporibus  fubfequentibus  D. 
Thomae  dedicatum  eft,  fitum  quafi  in  medio 
oppidi  fmu,  &  tanta  majeftate  cum  duabus 
ingentibus  turribus  in  coelum  fe  erigens,  ut 
procul  etiam  intuentibus,  quemadmodum  Eras- 
mus inquit,  religioncm  incutiat. 

In  Choro  templi  iftius,  cujus  ingreffum  Can- 
celli  ferrei  prohibent,  monumenta  videntur 
fequentia  : 

Henrici  IV.  regis  Anglic,  cum  uxorc  fud 
Navarrsea,  ex  marmore  candido. 

Nicolai 


HENTZNER's  Travkls,        '9^ 

Whits  TABLE,  here  we  went  afhore, 

Canterbury,  we  came  to  it  on  foot; 
this  is  the  feat  of  the  Archbifhop,  Primate 
of  all  England,  a  very  antient  town,  and 
without  doubt  of  note  in  the  time  of  th^ 
Romans. 

Here  are  two  Monafteries  almoft  contigu- 
ous, namely  of  Chrift  and  St.  Auguftine, 
both  of  them  once  filled  with  BenedicSHne 
Monks  ;  the  former  was  afterwards  dedicated 
to  St.  Thomas  Becket,  the  name  of  Chrift 
being  obliterated ;  it  ftands  almoft  in  the 
middle  of  the  town,  and  with  fo  much  majefty 
lifts  itfelf,  and  it's  two  towers,  to  a  ftupen- 
dous  height,  that,  as  Erafmus  fays,  it  ftrikes 
even  tliofe,  who  only  fee  it  at  a  diftance,  with 
awe. 

■  In  the  Choir,    which  is  fhut  up  with  iron 
rails,  are  the  following  monuments  : 

King  Henry  IV.  with  his  wife  Joan  of 
Navarre,  of  white  marble. 

D  d  ^  Nicholas 


99    KENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Nicolai  Woltonis,  qui  fuit  Confiliarius 
Henrici  VIII.  Edward  VI.  Marise  &  Elifa- 
beth2e,  Anglias  regum  &  reginarum. 

Edwardi  Prrncipis  quondam  tertii  in  Aqui- 
tania,  Ducis  de  Cornewolle  &  Comitis 
Ceftrias. 

Reginaldi  Poli,  cum  hac  infcriptione  : 
Depofitum  Reginaldi  Poli,    Cardinalis    & 
Archiepifcopi  Cantuarienfis. 

Cardinalis  Chaftillon. 

Sellam  deinde  vidimus  in  quam  coUocari 
fdlent  Epifcopi,  quando  inveftiuntur.  In  vefti- 
bulo  Tcmpli,  quod  eft  ad  Auflrum,  in  faxum 
incifi  funt  trcs  armati,  qui  Thomam  Becket- 
tum,  Archiepifcopum  Cantuarienfeni,  ob  mar- 
tyrium  inter  Divos  relatum,  trucidarunt,  ad- 
ditis  his  cognominibus, 

Tusci.     Fusci.    Berri. 

Hie 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        99 

Nicholas  Wootton,  privy  Counfellor  to 
Henry  VIII.  Edward  VI.  Mary  and  Eli'^a-: 
hcth,  kings  and  queens  of  England. 

Of  Prince  Edward,  Duke  of  Aquitain  and 
Cornv/all,  and  Earl  of  Cheftcr. 

Reginald  Pole,  with  this  infcription  : 
The    remains  of  Reginald  Pole,    Cardinal 
and  Archbifliop  of  Canterbury. 

Cardinal  Chatillon. 

We  were  then  fhewn  the  chair  in  which 
the  Bifhops  are  placed,  when  they  are  inftalled. 
In  the  veftibule  of  the  church,  on  the  South 
fide,  ftand  the  ftatues  of  three  men  armed, 
cut  in  ftone,  who  flew  Thomas  Beckct  Arch- 
bifliop of  Canterbury,  made  a  Saint  for  this 
martyrdom  ;  their  names  are  adjoined, 
J   Tusci.     Fuse  I.     Berri. 

X  This  is  another  moji  Inaccurate  account :  Ths 

murderers    of  Beckct  zvere^    Tracy,  Morville, 

Britton  and  Fitzurfe. 

Being 


loo    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

Hie  cum  ambulando  defefii,  nos  pane  & 
cerevifia  aliquantulum  refeciiTemus,  poftea 
flatim  equos  curforios  confcendimus,  &  fecun- 
dd  aut  tertia  no<Stis  hcra,  in  oppidum  Dubrim, 
vulgo  Dover,  venimus.  In  via,  qu3e  fatis 
erat  afpera  &  periculofa,  tale  quid  nobis  ac- 
cidit :  Dux  viae,  vulgo  poftillon,  adolefcens, 
ad  globuli  fclopetarii  i£lum,  cum  duobus  ex 
noftris  comitibus  praeceflerat ;  nos  tardius  in- 
fcqucndo  focios  noftros  in  tenebris  e  confpeftu 
noftro  amittimus  ;  repcriinus  poftea  bivium  ; 
ad  dextram  locus  crat  declivis  &  paluftris  ^ 
ad  finiftram  colliculus ;  hie  dum  dubii,  utra 
harum  viarum  eligcnda  fit,  confultamus,  ecce 
derepente  vidcmus  a  dextro  latere  equites  quof- 
(lam,  noftris  quoad  equos,  quoad  veftitum  & 
ftaturam  corporis  omniho  fimiles  ;  qua  propter 
Ir^tabundi  illos  fequl  ftatulmus  ;  fed  accidit, 
ut  ifti,  Deo  ita  nos  protegente,  nobis  incla- 
mantibus  liihil  refponderent,  fed  viam  fuam 
paluftrem  pcrfequerentur  adeo  ftrenue,  ut 
fmgulus  pedum  pofitus,  &  i6lus  multas  comi- 
tarentur  ftammae  igneae  3  quae  res  non  imme- 
^-:^\<^  fufpicionem  movif  de  latronibus^ 

de 


HENTZNER's  Travels.         ioo 


Being  tired  with  walking,  we  refrefhed  our- 
felves  here  with  a  mouthful  of  bread,  and 
fome  ale,  and  immediately  mounted  poft- 
horfes,  and  arrived  about  two  or  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning  at  Dover.  In  our  way  to  it, 
which  was  rough  and  dangerous  enough,  the 
following  accident  happened  to  us  :  Our 
guide,  or  pofl:ilion,  a  youth,  was  before  with 
two  of  our  company,  about  the  diftance  of  a 
mufket-fhot,  we  by  not  following  quick 
enough,  had  loft  fight  of  our  friends ;  we 
came  afterwards  to  where  the  road  divided,  on 
the  right  it  was  down  hill,  and  marfhy,  on 
the  left  was  a  fmall  hill;  whil  ft  we  flopped 
here  in  doubt,  and  confulted  which  of  the 
roads  we  fhould  take,  we  faw  all  on  a  fudden 
on  our  right-hand  fome  horfemen,  their  ftature, 
drefs  and  horfes,  exa6i:ly  refembling  thofe  of 
our  friends,  glad  of  having  found  them  again, 
we  determined  to  fct  on  after  them ;  but  it 
happened  through  God's  mercy,  that  though. 
we  called  to  them,  they  did  not  anfwer  us,  but 
Iccpt  on  down  the  marfhy  road,  at  fuch  a  rate, 

that 


loi     HENTZNERI  IriNERARiuMi 

dc  qiiibus  eramus  admoniti,  vel  de  fpeftris 
iio£turnis  potlus,  quae,  ficuti  poftea  nobis 
quoque  relatum  eft,  in  iftis  locis  folcnt  efle 
frequentia  ;  accedebant  ignes  fatui  magno  nu- 
mero,  ita  ut  horrore  vel  ftupore  quodammodo 
concuterenlur ;  verum  faiSlum  eft,  ut  pauIo 
paft  viae  dux  cornu  fignum  daret,  quo  indicio, 
nos  ad  finiftram  convertimus,  &  fie  ad  comites 
noftros  falvi  pervenimus  ;  qui  a  nobis  inter- 
rogati,  num  obvios  habuillent  iftos,  quos  vi- 
dcramus,  equites  ;  r^fponderunt,  fe  neminem 
vidifle  ;  variae  deinceps  hac  de  re,  ut  fieri  folet, 
latae  funt  fententias ;  quicquid  autem  fit,  cer- 
tum  profetfto  nobis  imminebat  periculum,  a 
quo,  quod  fimus  liberati,  foli  Deo  tribuendum 
&  afcribcndum  eft. 

Porro  Dubris  Angliae  oppidum,  quod  inter 
cautes  confidet  (ubi  portus  ipfe  oliin  fuit,  cum 
marc  fc  infinuaret,  uti  ex  anchoris,  &  navium 
tabu! is  erutis  colligitur)  portus  opportunitate, 
quae  jam  fere  nulla  eft,  Sc  in  Galliam  trajeclu 
niagis  cclebratur,  quam  fua  vel  elegantia 
vel   frequentia.      Celeberrimus   enim  Sz  bre- 

vilTimiis 


HENTZNER's  Travels.  .     lox 

that  their  horfes  feet  ftruck  fire  at  every  ftretch, 
which  made  us  with  reafon  begin  to  fufpeiS: 
they  were  thieves,  having  had  warning  of  fuch, 
or  rather  that  they  were  nofturnal  fpecSlres, 
who  as  we  were  afterwards  told,  are 
frequently  (qcii  m  thofe  places,  there  were 
likewife  a  great  many  Jack-w'-a-Ianthorns, 
fo  that  we  were  quite  feized  with   horror  and 

amazement  ! But  fortunately  for   us, 

our  guide  foon  after  founded  his  horn,  and 
we  following  the  noift,  turned  down  the  left- 
hand  road,  and  arrived  fafe  to  our  comT>anIons, 
who  when  we  had  afked  them.  If  they  had 
not  feen  the  horfemen  who  had  gone  by  us  ? 
Anfv^ered,  not  a  foul :  Our  opinions  accord- 
ing to  cuftoni  were  various  upon  this  matter  ; 
but  whatever  the  thing  was,  we  were  without 
doubt  in  imminent  danger,  from  which  that 
we  efcaped,  the  glory  is  to  be  afcribed  to 
God  alone.  * 

Dover,  fituated  among  cliffs,  (ftanding 
where  the  Port  itfelf.was  originally,  as  may 
be  gathered  from  Anchors,  and  parts  of  veflels 
dug  up  there)  is   more   famous  for  the  con- 

V   .i  E  e  veniencc 


102    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

viiTimus  hie  eft  trajedus  xxx,  millium  paflu- 
um,  qui  fpatio  quinque  vel  fex  horarum,  fecun* 
do  fpirante  vento,  poteft  abfolvi,  ficut  nof- 
mctipfi  fumus  expert! ;  nutnerant  hinc  non- 
nuili  Caletum  ufque  ocSlbdecim,  Boloniam 
vero  fcdecim  milliaria  Anglicana,  quae  Italicis 
Jongiora  dicit  efie  Ortelius,  in  fuo  Theatre. 


Templum  habuit  Martino  facrum,  a  Viflre- 
do  Cantii  rege  fundatum,  militum  etiam 
Templariorium  aedes,  quse  jam  difparuerunt, 
ibdemque  praebet  Archiepifcopi  Cantuarienfis 
SufFraganeo;  qui  cum  gravioribus  Archiepif- 
copus  negotiis  diftri<Scus  fit,  quae  ordinis  funt, 
non  quae  jurifdiftionis  Epifcopalis,  gerit.  E 
colle  feu  potius  rupe,  quae  a  dextra  omni  ex 
parte  fere  confragofa,  in  admirandam  altitu- 
dinem  exurgit  Caftellum  ampliflimum,  inftar 
urbiculac,  opere  munitifrimum,  &  turribus  fre- 
quentiflimum,  fubjedlo  freto  quodammodo 
minatur :  Clavem  &  repagulum  Angliag  yo- 
cat  Mathaeus  Parifienfis  ;  vulgus  hominum  a 
JuUo  Caefare  conftrudlum  fomniati    a  Ro- 

manis 


HENTZNER's  Travels.        102 

irenience  of  it's  port,  which  indeed  is  now 
much  de  ayed,  and  it's  paflage  to  PVance, 
than  for  either  it's  elegance,  or  populoufnefs  ; 
this  paflage  the  mofl:  ufed,  and  'the  fliortcll:, 
is  of  thirty  miles,  which  with  a  favourable 
wind  may  be  run  over  in  five  or  fix  hours, 
time,  as  we  ourfelves  experienced ;  fome 
reckon  it  only  eighteen  to  Calais,  and  to 
Boulogne  fixteen  Englifh  miles,  which  as 
Ortelius  fays  in  his  Theatrum,  are  longer 
thaii  the  Italian. 

Here  was  a  church  dedicated  to  St.  Martin, 
by  Vidlred  king  of  Kent,  and  a  houfe  be- 
longing to  the  Knigh|:s  Templars ;  of  either 
there  are  now  no  remains  :  It  is  the  feat  of  a 
Suffragan  to  the  Archbifliop  of  Canterbur}'^, 
who  when  the  Archbifliop  is  employed  upon 
bufmefs  of  more  confequence,  manages  the 
ordinary  affairs,  but  does  not  interfere  with 
the  Archiepifcopal  jurifdi6^ion.  Upon  a  hill, 
or  rather  rock,  which  on  it's  right  fide  is  al- 
moft  every  where  a  precipice,  a  very  extenfivc 
Caftle  rifes  to  a  furprizing  height,  in  fize  like 
a  little  city,  extremely  well  fortified,  and 
E  e  2  thick 


% 


103    HENTZNERI  Itinerarium. 

manis  autcm  primo  conditum,  ex  lateribus 
illis  Britannicis  in  Sacello,  quibus  ufi  funt  in 
fuis  fubftra6tionibus,  verfimile  eft.  GulieL  Cam" 
den.  in  Britannia* 

Hie  fumto  prandio,  A  N  G  L I A  M  reliquimus. 


T^      ^      ^      ^      vP'      Tff 

***** 

*      *      *      * 

*      *      *^ 


HENTZNER's  Traveis.        103 

thick  fet  with  towers,  and  feems  to  threaten 
the  fea  beneath  :  Matthew  Paris  calls  it,  the 
door  and  key  of  England ;  the  ordinary  people 
have  taken  it  into  their  heads,  that  it  was  built 
by  Julius  Caefar,  it  is  likely  it  might  by  the 
Romans,  from  thofe  Britifli  bricks  in  the 
Chapel,  which  they  made  ufe  of  in  their 
foundations :  See  CamhderCs  Britannia. 

After  we  had  dined,   we   took   leave  of 
ENGLAND. 


*  *  *  ^  * 

*  *  *  * 

*  *  * 


LSJVMW^ 


j^