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Full text of "A journey into England"

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THE LIBRARY 

OF 

THE UNIVERSITY 

OF CALIFORNIA 



GIFT OF 



the xcungcr 




".toy"-"' 



tOWTHOK. 






JOURNEY 

INTO 

ENGLAND. 



B Y 



PAUL HENTZNER, 

In the Year M.D.XC.VIII. 




PRINTED AT STRAWBERRY-HILL. 

MDCCLVII. 



To THE Right Honourablh 

HUGH, 

Lord WiLi^ouGHBY of Parham; 
PRESIDENT} 

TO THE 

COUNCIL AND FELLOWS 

Of the Society of 

A N T I Q^U ARIES, 

This Edition and Translation, 

o F 

Part of the Itinerary of 

HENTZNERUS, 

Is offered with great Refpeft 

by the Editor, 

HORACE WALPOLE, F. S. A. and F. R. S. 



Ji 



Advertifement- 



DOdor Birch, in his fum- 
mary of Sir Thomas 
Edmondes's State-papers, has 
publifhed a fhort extrad from 
the following obfolete Author, 
which, for the elegance of the 
Latin, and the remarkable de- 
fcription of queen EHzabeth, 
has been defervedly admired: 
Her beft portraits fcarcely exhi- 
bit a more lively image. 

The 



The original work, of which 
perhaps there are not above 
four, or five copies in England, 
is an itinerary through Ger- 
many, England, France, and 
Italy, performed by Hentzner, 
a travelling tutor to a young 
German nobleman. That Dr. 
Birch has extracted the moft 
interefting paffage in the whole 
book, is certain : Yet it re-r 
cords fome circumftances and 
cuRoms, not unworthy the 
notice of an Englifh Antiqua- 
rian, and which are mentioned 

no 



[ iii ] 

no where elle. For thefe rea- 
fons, I flatter myfelf, that a 
pubHcation of the part relating 
to our own country, might not 
be an unacceptable prefent to 
perfons of curioiity. The 
tranflation, was the produdion 
of the idle hours of another 
Gentleman. 

The Author feems to have 
had that laborious, and indif- 
criminate paflion for seeing^ 
which is remarked in his coun- 
trymen ; and as his Tranflator 
obferved, enjoyed as much the 

doubtful 



[iv] 

doubtful head, of a more 
doubtful faint in pickle, as any 
upon the Ihoulders of the beft 
Grecian ftatue. Fortunately 
fo memorable a perfonage as 
queen Elizabeth, happened to 
fall under his notice.— —Ten 
years later, . he would have 
been as accurate in paiiiiting 
Anne of Denmark ! 

The exgefs of relpe6lful 
ceremonial ufed at decking her 
Majefty's tabie^ ' though* not in 
h€r prefence, and the kind of 
adoration and genuflexion paid 

to 



{ vii ] 

-With regard to the ortho- 
graphy of proper Names, 
though corredled in the trail- 

jQation, I have left theminthe 

. ' ''-■■1 

original as I found' them-™- 
Accuracy in that particular, 
was not the Author's merit ^: 
ITt is a merit peculiar to Eng- 
liflimen : The French are ne- 
gligent of it to an affedation ; 
yet the author of Les Me- 
langes Hijioriques complains 
that other nations corrupt 
French names ! He himfelf 
gives fome Englifh ones in 
B 2 p. 247, 



[ viii ] 
p. 247, 248. which it is im- 
pofTible to decypher. Baflbm- 
pierre calls York-houfe, Jor- 
chauxy and Kenfington, In- 
himthort. As a foldier and 
embaflador, he was not oblig- 
ed to know the names of 
Houfes ; when he turned 
author, there was no excufe 
for not being intelligible. Even 
Voltaire, who writes the lan- 
guage fo well, is carelefs in 
our titles. In England, it is 
the defedl of a fervant to 
blunder in proper names. It 
is one of thofe filly preteniions 

to 



to her perfon, approach to 
Eaftern homage. When we 
obferve fuch worlhip offered to 
an old Woman, with bare 
neck, black teeth, and falfe 
red hair, it makes one fmile ; 
but makes one refled: what 
mafculine fenfe was couched 
under thofe weaknefles, and 
which could command fuch 
awe from a nation like Eng- 
land ! 

Not to anticipate the enter- 
tainment of the reader, I fhall 
make but one more refle<3:ion. 
B We 



[vi] 

We are apt to think that Sir 
WiHiam / Temple, and king 
Williani, were in a mannfer 
thei introducers of gardening 
into England : By the defdrip- 
tion of lord Burleigh's gardens 
at Theobalds, and of thole at 
Nonfuch, we find that the 
magnificent, though falfe tafte, 
was known here as eariy as the 
reigns of Henry VIII. and his 
Daughter. There is Icarce an 
unnatural and fiimptuous im- 
propriety at Verfailles, which 
we do hot find in Hentzrier's 
defcription of the gardens 
above-mentioned. With 



H E N T Z N E R's 

ACCOUNT 



OF 



E N G L A N D. 



In the Year M.D.XC.VIII. 



HENTZNERI 

ITINERARIUM. 



AD oppidulum Rye, ubi portus eft An- 
gliae, pervenimus. Quam primum hie 
nave eflemus egrefli, Notario loci nomina 
noftra dedimus, prius tamen interrogati, quid 
negotii nobis in hoc Regno futurum ? Ubi 
refponfum eilet, nos infulae perluftrandae gra- 
tia folummodo hue advenifle, in diverforiuni 
dedudi, & pro Regionis more, bene & lautc 
fuimus habiti. 

Equis eurforiis Londinum profefti fumus. 
Mira horum eeleritas ; levibus reguntur frenis; 
ephippiis utuntur, ultra fpithamam, vix me- 
dium digitum latis. 

FlIMVVOLT, 



[ ix ] 

to politenefs, which nations 
that affed: a fiiperiority, have 

always cultivated For in all 

affectations, defeds are merits. 
The readers of hiftory love 
certainty : It is pity the wri- 
ters do not. What confulion 
would it have faved, if it had 
not been the cuftom of the 
Jews to call every Darius and 
Artaxerxes, Ahafuerus ! It were 
to be wifhed, that all nations 
would be content to ufe the 
appellations which people, or 
refpedive countries have chofen 
for themfelves. Proper names 

ought 



ought never to be tortured to 
any particular idiom. What a 
ridiculous compofition is jJulu- 
gel ! Who can conceive that 
Meylandty fignifies Milan; or 
l^t^orWy Livorno f' When one 
is mifled by a proper name, the 
only ufe of w^hich is to dired:, 
pne feels like the Country- 
man, , who complained. That 
the, houfes hi7tdered him from 
feei?ig Paris.- The thing be- 
comes an obftrudion to itfelf. 



HEN- 



HENTZN E R^s 

TRAVELS. 



WE arrived at Rye, a fmall Englifh 
fea-port. Here, as foon as we 
came on fhore, we gave in our names to 
the Notary of the place, but not till he had 
demanded our bufmefs ; and being ani'wered. 
That we had none but to fee England : We 
were conducted to an inn, where, we were 
very well entertained ^ as one generally is 
in this country. 

m We took poft horfes for London : It is 

furprizing how fwiftly they run, their bridles 
are very light, and their faddles, little more 
than a fpan over. 

C Flimwell, 



2 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Flimvvolt, pagus in Anglia. Hic priori- 
bus equis dimiffis, alios confcendimus. 

TuMBRiDGE, Angliae pagum, tranflvimus. 

Che PS TED, Angliae pagus, in quo fecunda 
vice priores equi dimittuntur, & novi condu- 
cuntur, 

LoNDiNUM, totius Angliae caputs atque 
metropolis; Cornel io Taci to, Londinium; 
Ptolomaeo, Longidinium ; Ammiano Mar^ 
cellino, Lundinium -, exteris Londra & 
LoNDREs ; incolis London dicitur ; Bri- 
tannic! imperii fedes Regumque Angliae Ca- 
mera ; urbs eft antiquiflima, in comitatu 
Midlefexia, regione totius Anglias feraciffima 
& faluberrima, ad flumen Thamefim lx, 
paffuum millia ab oceano fita ; cujus quidem 
primum omnium fundatorem, Brutum fuifle, 
conftanti hiftoriarum leftionc perhibetur i 
is ex Italia in Graeciam, inde in Africam^ 
turn in Gallias, acdemum in Britanniam devc- 
. niens. 



. HENTZNER's Travels. a 

Flimwell, a village ; here vire returned 
our firft horfes, and mounted frefli ones. 

We pafled through Tunbridge, another 
village. 

Chepsted, another village j here for the 
iecond time we changed horfes. 

London, the head and metropolis of Eng- 
land : Called by Tacitus, Londinium ; by 
Ptolomey, Longidinium j by Ammianus 
Marcellinus, Lundinium ; by foreigners, 
Londra, and Londres ; is the feat of the 
Britifti empire, and the chamber of the Eng- 
lifli kings. This moft antient city, is in the 
county of Middlefex, the fruitfulleft and 
wholefomeft foil in England, It is built 
upon the river Thames, 60 miles from the 
fea, and was originally founded, as all 
hiftorians agree, by Brutus, who coming 
from Greece into Italy, thence into Africa, 
next into France, and laft into Britain, 
C 2 chofe 



3 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

niens, ad Thamefim fluvium, fitu & opor- 
tun itate loci adducSius, urbem condidit, Tro- 
JAMQUE NOVAM appdlavit, quie tandem per 
corruptionem Trinovantum fuit appellata. 
At, poflquam Lud, frater Caflibllauni, five 
CafUvellauni, qui cum Julio Caefare diixiica- 
vit, cujus ipfemet Crefar meminit, lib, 5. de 
Bell, Gall, regni gubernacula adeptus eft, 
cinxit earn nobiliflimis muris, & turribus, 
arte mira fabricatis, & de nomine fuo juflfit 
eam dici, Caier Lud, id eft Civitas Lud ; 
dcinde per corruptionem nominis C.^rlun- 
da ; & fuccedente tempore, per commuta- 
tionem linguarum, Lundene, ac pofteaLuN- 
DRES, dicta fuit. Mortuus tandem Lud, in 
hac urbe fepultus eft', juxta portam iilam, quae 
hoc etiam tempore, PoR Lud, Britannice, 
Saxonicc verb Ludesgate nuncupatur. 

Nobilis ille fluvius Thamefis, primo Ifis 
r43minatus, paulo lupra Vinchelcombiam vi- 
Gum oi-itur, dcinde rivis pafTim auctus, citra 
Oxonium, cum flumine Thami, junciis aquis, 
n.omen quoquc conjungit \ ad extremum im- 

mani 



HENTZNER's Travels. 3 

chofe this fitiiation, for the convenience of 
the river, calling it Troja nova, which 
name was afterwards corrupted into T ri- 
ng van t. But when Lud, the brother of 
CafTibilan, or Cailivelan, who warred againft 
Julius Caefar, as he himfelf mentions, lib, 5. 
d0 BelL GalL came to the crown, he encom- 
pafled it with very ftrong walls, and towers 
very artfully conftru6i:ed, and from his own 
name called it Caier Lud, /. e. Lud's City. 
This name was corrupted into that of C^R- 
LUNDA, and again in time by change of 
Language, into Lundres. Lud, when he 
died, was buried in this town, near that gate 
which is yet called in Welch, PoR Lud, 
in Saxon, Ludesgate. 

The famous river Thames, owes part of 
its ftream, as well as of its appellation, to 
the Ifis ; rifing a little above Winchelcomb, 
and being encreafed with feveral rivulets, 
unites both its waters, and its name to the 
Thame, on the other fide of Oxford, thence 
after paiTmg by London, and being of the ut- 

moft 



4 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

mani maris aeftu (qui bis, ut ait Gemma 
Frifius XXV. horarum fpacio amplius Lxxx. 
paffuum millibus fluit ac refluit, Polydorus 
Vergilius Urbinas lib. i. AngL Hljl. fcribit, 
Themefim fluvium xxiv. horarum fpacio, 
bis fluere atque refluere, amplius LX. paffuum 
millibus) excipitur, atque navigabilis ac vaf- 
tus, permagno mortal ium commodo, ipfam 
urbem alluens, in oceanum influit, 

Porro urbs Londinenfis, & per fe maxi- 
ma eft, & fuburbia habet ampliflima, nee non 
arcem, Turrim appellatam, pulcherrime ex- 
truftam. 

^dificiis verb atque templis magnifice or- 
natur, vicenis fupra centenas aedibus, quas 
Parochiales vocant, venerabilis. 

Meridiem verfus, pontem habet lapideum, 
800 pedes longum, opus certe mirabile ; et 
enim xx. ftant ex lapide quadrato pilae, altjE 
pedes LX. latae xxx. diftantque inter fe circi- 
ter pedes xx. fornicibus conjunftae, fuper cu- 
ius 



HENTZNER's Travels. 4 

moft utility, from its greatnefs and naviga-^ 
tion, it opens into a vaft arm of the fea, 
from whence the tide, according to Gem- 
ma Frifius, flows and ebbs to the diftance of 
80 miles, twice in 25 hours, and according 
to Polydore Virgil, above 60 miles, twice in 
24 hours. 

This city being very large of itfelf, has 
very extenfive fuburbs, and a fort, called the 
Tower, of beautiful ftru6lure» It is magni- 
ficently ornamented, with public buildings 
and churches, of which there are above 120 
parochial. 

On the South, is a bridge of ftone, 800 
feet in length, of wonderful work ; it is fup- 
ported upon 20 piers of fquare ftone, 60 feet 
high, and 30 broad, joined by arches of 
about 20 feet diameter. The whole is cover- 
ed on each fide with houfes, fo difpofed, as to 
have the appearance of a continued ftreet, 
not at all of a bridge* 

Upon 



5 H E N T Z N E RI Itiner arivm. 

jus dorfo, domicilia utrinque ea difpofitfoiief 

6 ordine cernuntur, ut perpetui fere vici fpe- 
ciem, noil pontis cxhibeant. 

Ponti Lohdinenfi turns inaedlficata eft, in 
cujus fummitate, reorum laefae majeftatis, & 
patriae proditorum capita, perticis ferreis affixa 
conrpiciuntur, ultra triginta nos horum mime- 
ravimus. 

Paul us lovius clariflimas Britanrfia? urbes 
defcribens ; harum omnium, inquit, famaiW| 
Lohdinum penitus obfcurat, Trinobanturri, 
ut plures exiftimant, civitas, C. lulio Caefari 
nuncupata, totius Britanniae regia, multarum 
gentium commercio nobilitata, excultai doitii- 
bus, ornata templrs, excelfa arcibus, & dcni- 
que rerum omnium copia, atque opum afflu- 
cntia, valde mirabilis. Invehit In earn totius 
orbis opes ipfe Thamefis, ftatis horis, oceaiii ' 
asftibus fuperbus & tumidtis, onerariis navi-- 
bus ab oftio per tx. mtllia paftuum, ad tir"- ' 
bem, tuto femper & praealto alveo, naviga- 
bilis.' Ripas undique peramcenae villae, pfki-'^ 

diis 



HENTZNER's Travels. 



Upon this is built a tower, on whofe 
top the heads of fuch as have been executed 
for high treafon, are placed upon iron fpikes 2 
We counted above 30; 



Paulus lovius, m his deicription of the 
moft remarkable towns in England, fays, all 
are obfcured by London : Which in the opi- 
nion of many is Caefar's city of the Trino- 
bantes, the capital of all Britain, famous for 
the commerce of many nations ; it's houfes 
are elegantly biiilt, it's churches fine, it'^ 
towns ftrong, and it's riches and abundance 
furpri^ing. The wealth of the world i^ 
wafted to it by the Thames, fwelled by the 
tide, and navigable to merchant fhips, 
through a fafe and deep channel for 60 
miles, from its mouth to the city : It's banks 
are every where beautified with fine country 
feats, woods, arid farms ; below,* is the royal 
palace of Greenwich ; above, that of Rich- 
D mond ; 



6 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

diis atque nemoribus diftinftae paflim exor- 
nant. Ab inferiore fcilicet parte regia domus, 
Grinuvicia, ita Anglice a viridariis appellata ; 
et in fuperlore praetorium, nomine Ricemun- 
dum ; in medio autem nobilis ftru6lurae exur- 
git Weftmonafterium, ab occidua urbis parte, 
foro ludiciali, five Parlamento, ac D. Petri 
templo, regum fepulchris exornato, longe 
clariiTimum. Atque item vigefimo lapide a 
Londino, regium caftrum, Vindoforiae, fece- 
deixtis regis peramcena fede, aliquotque regum 
fepulchris & Garretteriorum fodalium ceremo- 
nia percelebre. Olores autem agminatim, 
iaeto occurfu, & feftivis cantibus fubeuntes 
claiTes excipiunt, ac undique retia fduris atque 
Salmonibus expanduntur. lungitur ad urbem 
lapideo ponte ftruftura mirifici operis, nee 
ullis imbribus augetur, cuiji unis tantum aefti- 
bus intumefcat, HaSfenus Paulus lovlus. 

Porro Londinum, tefte Polydoro Vergilio 
Uh. 4. JngL Hijh ab Archenini, five Erchen- 
vini regis ufque temporibus, regia civitas eft^ 
& regni caput, civibus & alienigenis frequen- 

tiilima^ 



HENTZNER's Travels. 6 

mond ; and between both, on the Weft of 
London, rife the noble buildings of Weff- 
minfter, moft remarkable for the courts of 
Juftice, the Parliament, and St. Peter's church, 
enriched with the royal tombs. At the 
diftance of 20 miles from London, is ihe 
caftle of Windfor, a moft delightful retreat of 
the kings of England, as well as famous for fe- 
veral of their tombs, and for the ceremonial of 
the Order of the Garter. This river abounds 
in Swans, fwimming in flocks ; the fight of 
them, and their noife, is vaftly agreeable to 
the fleets that meet them in their courfe. It 
is joined to the city by a bridge of ftone, won- 
derfully built; is never encreafed by any 
rains, rifmg only with the tide, and is every 
where fpread with nets, for the taking of Sal- 
mon and Shad. Thus far Paulus lovius, 

Polydore Virgil affirms, that London has 
continued to be a royal city, and the capital 
of the kingdom, crowded with its own in- 
habitants and foreigners, abounding in riches, 
and famous for its great trade, from the time 
of king Archeninus, or Erchenvinus. Here 
D z the 



7 HENTZNERI Itinerar?um. 

tifiima, divjtiis atque opibus aifluens, emporio 
* celeberrima. In ea reges diademate regio in- 
i[igriiuntur, f egnoque caeremoniis fplendidiilimis 
inaugurantur ; in ea confdium five Parlamen- 
ttim celebratur. Adminiftratur autem antlquo 
, ^ritannorum regum privilegio a xxiv, civibus, 
quos AngH -Aldermannos quafi Seniares vo- 
cant J ^x qupmm numero praetore'm urba- 
.num,' Majorem eorum lingua appellatum, 
 Tribunofque duos, Scervips vocatos, ipfimet 
annua commutatione eligunt, qui in jure di- 
cundo legibus municipalibus utuntur. Mira 
eruditiilimorum virorum, cum in universa Bri- 
tannia, turn in bac potillimurn urbe femper 
extitit fertilitas, qui inter Scriptores celebra- 
tiffimi cnituerunt. 

Patent urbis moenia fex portis, qu« no- 
vatae nova etiam alTumferunt nomina. Ad 
occafum^jduse ii^t. 

I. LuDGATE, aLuddo rege, omnium ^nti- 
quifTima, cujus nomen etiarnnum hodie fi|- 
pra portaqi incifum extat ; five Flutgate, quo- 
rundam opinione, a fluviolo fubjefto, ut Por- 
ta 



s HENTZNER'3 Travels. 7 

the kings are crowned, and folemnly inaugu- 
rated, and the council of the nation, or Par- 
liament is held. The government of the 
city is lodged by antient grant of the kings 
of Britain, in 24 Aldermen, that is, Seniors : 
Thefe annually e|ea out of their own body 
a Mayor, ?ind two SheriiFs, who determine 
caufes according to the municipal laws. It 
has always had, as indeed Britain in general, 
a jrreat number of men of learning, much 
diftinguifhed for their writings. 

The walls are pierced with fix gates, which 
as they were rebuilt, acquired new names. 
Two look Eaftward : 

I. LuDGATE, the oldeft, fo called from 
king Lud, whofe name is yet to be feen, cut 
into the ftone over the arch on one fide; 
though others imagine it rather to have been 
named Fludgate, from a ftream over which 
it ftands, like the Porta Fluentana at Rome. 
It has been lately repaired by queen Eliza- 
beth, whofe ftatuc is placed on the oppofite 

fide. And 

11. 



8 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 
ta Fluentaiia Romae, nunc a regina Elifa- 
betha renovata cujus ftatua ab altera quoque 
parte vi'detur. 

II. Newgate, omnium pulcherrima, a 
novitate fic appellata, prius Chamberlangate, 
dic^a, quae publicum eft ergaftulum. 

Ad feptentrionem Quatuor. 

I. Alders GATE, ab alnetis, vel ab Al- 
dricio Saxone, ut aliis placet. 

II. Creplegate, a claudorum hofpitio. 

III. Moregate, a palude adjuftdla, nunc 
in agrum conversa, primum a Francetio Prae- 
tore. Anno Chrifti m.cccc.xiv. patefada. 

IV. Bischopsgate, ab Epifcopo, quam 
German! Hanfiaticae Societatis Mercatores, & 
inftaurare, & difficilioribus temporibus propug- 
nare ex pa6to tenebantur, atque ad iftam & 
aperiendam & claudendam clavem habebarrt, 
quo, neceflitate fic poftulante, & ingredi, & 
cgredi, no£tu atque interdiu pofTent. 

Ad 



HENTZNER's Travels. 8 

II. NewqatEj the beft edifice of any : 
So called from being new built, whereas be- 
fore it was named Chamberlain-gate. It is 
the public prifon. 

On the North are four : 

I. ALDERSGATEjas fome think, from alder 
trees ; as others, from Aldricius, a Saxon. 

II. Criplegate, from an hofpital for 
the lame. 

III. MooRGATE, from a neighbouring mo-* 
rafs, now converted into a field, firft opened by 
* Francetius the Mayor, A. D. 1414. 

IV. And BisHOPSGATE, from fome Bi- 
fhop : This the German Merchants of the 
Hans Society were obliged by compaft to 
keep in repair, and in times of danger to 
defend. They were in pofleljion of a key, to 
open or fhut it, fo that upon occafion they 
could come in, or go out, by night, or by day. 

* His name was Sir Thomas Falconer* 

There 



9 HENTZNERI Itinjerarium, 

Ad Ortum una fola eft ; 

Aldgate, a vetuftate fic dida, vel Elbe- 
gate, ut alii volunt. 

Ad Thamefim, duas etiam portas, praeter 
illani ad pontem, extitifle nonnulli creduiit. 

I. Belnigsgate, nunc cothon, five por- 
tus artificialis, ad recipiendas naves. 

II. DouRGATE, id eft, Aquaria porta, 
vulgo Dovvgate. 

Templum Cathedrale D. Paulo fa- 
crum, ab Ethelberto Anglo-Saxonum rege 
conditum eft, quod fubinde reftauratum, in 
maximum & magnificentiflimum excrevit, red- 
ditibufque opulentum, unde praeter Epifco- 
pum, Decanus, Praecentor, Cancel! ari us, 
Thefaurarius, Archidiaconi quatuor, Praeben- 
darii XXIX. & alii prolixe aluntur. Teftum 
hujus, quern adm6dum & omnia fere templa 
per totam Angliam, una cum adjunda turri', 
plumbo obtedhitfi eft. 

Ad 



HENTZNER's TftAVfiiJi 9 

There is only one gate to the Eaft : 
ALf)GATE, that is Oidgate, from its anti- 
quity; though others think it to have beea 
named Elbegate. 

Several people believe, there v^erefbrfnerty 
two gates (befides that to the bridge) towards 
the -Thames. 

I. BiLLiNGSGATfe, nov^acothon, orarti-^ 
ficral port^ for the reception of fhips. 

II. D0URGATE5 vulgo Dow^gate, /. e*. 
Water-gate. 

The Cathedral of St. Paul was 
founded by Ethelbert, king o{ the Saxons, 
and being from time to time fe-edified, en- 
creafed to vaftnefs and magnificence, and in 
revenue fo much, that it affords a plentiful 
fupport to a Biftiop, Dean, Prascentor, Trea- 
furor, four Archdeacons, 29 Prebendaries, 
and many others. The roof of )^iis,j/:Jjujrch, : 
E as 



lo HENTZNERI ItineraRium. 

Ad dextrum Chori latus eft epitaphlum 
ex marmore, Nicolai * ne Bacon cum uxore. 
Non lonoe ab ifto videtur monumentum mao-- 
nificum, alabaftrinis, marmoreifque pyramidi- 
bus ornatum, cum hiic infcriptione ; 

Sacrum Memorise 

t D. Chr, Hattoni Gu. Fil. lo. Nepos anti- 
quifs. Hattonorium gente oriundi ; Rcgise Ma- 
jeftatis, D. Eliz. ex Nobilibus ftipatoribus l* 
viri ; Sacratioris Camerae Generoforum unius ; 
Prastorianorum militum Ducis ; Regii Proca- 
merarii; Sanftioris Confdi Senatoris 5 fummi 
Angliae ac Oxon. Acad. Cancellarii ; Ordinis 
Nobilifs. San. Georgian! de Perifcelide Equi- 
tis ; maximo Pfincipis, omniumque bonorum 
moerore (cum Li. annos coelebs vixiilet) xx. 
Novemb. Anno Chrifti m.d.xci. in aedibus' 
fuis Holburniae, pie fato fundi. 

* He takes this ne for part of the name^ 
vjhich is only part of the epitaph^ hie Nic. tic 
Baconem conditum exiftlma. 

X This infcription may be feen litterally iti 

Dugdale's St. Panrs. 

Guliel. 



HENTZNER's Travels. iq 

as of moft others in England, with the adjoin- 
ing fteeple, is covered v/ith lead. 

On the right fide of the Choir is the mar- 
ble tomb of Nicholas Bacon, with his wife. 
Not far from this is a magrxificent monu- 
ment, ornamented with pyramids of marble, 
and alabafter, with this infcription : 

Sacred to the Memory of 
Sir Chriftopher Hatton, Son of William, 
Grand fon of John, of the moft antient 
Family of the Hattons ; one of the 50 Gen- 
tlemen Penfioners to her Majefty Queen 
Elizabeth ; Gentleman of the Privychamber ; 
Captain of the Guards ; one of the privy 
Council, and High Chancellor of England, 
and of the Univerfity of Oxford : Who, to 
the great grief of his Sovereign, and of all 
good Men, ended this Life religioufly, after 
having lived unmarried to the Age of 51, at 
his Houfe in Holbourn, on the 20th of No- 
yemberj A. D. 1591. 

E 2 William 



II HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Guliel. Hattonius Eques auratus, ejus c fo- 
rore nepos, adoptione filius ac haeres moeftifs. 
Pietatis ergo pofuit. 

A finiflro latere epltaphium eft marmoreum 
Guliel. Herbert!, Pembrochiae Comitis & con- 
jugis ipfi.s; et juxta, tumulus loannis D. 
Lancaftriae^ cum hac infcriptione : 

Hie in Domino obdormi\ it loaniics Can- 
davenlls, vulgo de Gant, a Gandavo P'landriae 
Urbe loco natali ita denominatus, Edwardi 
III. Regis Angliae filius quartus, a patre, 
Comitis Richmondise titulo ornatus -, tres fibi 
Uxorcs in matrimonium duxit ; Primam, 
Blancheam, filiam & Haeredem Henrici Ducis 
Lancaftri'rC, per quam amplifs. adiit haeredita- 
tem, nee folum Dux Lancaftrine, (cd etiam 
Leyceftriae, I^incolniae, & Derbiap, Comes ef- 
fec^us, e cujus fobole, Imperatores, Reges, 
Principes, & Proccres propagati funt plurimi. 
Alteram habuit uxorcm Conftantiam, quae 
kic cpntumulatur, hliam & hxrcdem Petri 

Regis 



•HENTZNER's Travels. ii 

William Hatton, Knight, his Nephew by 
the Sifter's fide, and by adoption his Son and 
Heir, moft forrowfully raifed this tomb, a 
mark of his duty. 

On the left hand h the marble monument 
6f William Herbert Earl of Pembroke, and 
his Lady: And near it, that of John, Duke 
of Lancafter, with this infcription : 

Here fleeps in the Lord, John of Gant, 
ib called from the city of the fame name in 
Flanders, where he was born, fourth Son of 
Edward IIL King of England, and created 
by his Father, Earl of Richmond. He was 
thrice married, firft to Blanch, Daughter and 
Heirefs of Henry Duke of Lancafter ; by 
her he received an immcnfe Inheritance, 
and became not only Duke of Lancafter, but 
Earl of Leicefter, Lincoln, and Derby, of 
whofe Race are defccnded many Emperors, 
Kings, Princes, and Nobles. His fecond 
Wife v/as Conftancc, v/ho is here buried. 

Daughter 



12 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Regis Caftilise & Leglonis, cujus jure optimo 
titulo Reo;is Caftiliae & Le^ionis ufus eft ; 
haec unicam ei peperit filiam Catharinam, ex 
qua ab Henrico Reges Hifpaniae funt progna- 
ti. Tertiam vero duxit uxorem Catharinam, 
ex Equeftri familia, & eximia pulchritudine 
foeminam, ex qua numerofam fufcepit prolem, 
unde genus ex matre duxit Henricus VII. 
Angliae Rex prudentiflimus, cujus felicrflimo 
conjugio cum Elifabetha EdvvardilV. Regis 
filia, e ftirpe Eboracenfi, Regime illae Lancaf- 
trenfium & Eboracenfiunni familiae ad exopta- 
tiilimam Angliae pacem coaluerunt. 



IllufLriilimus hie Prjnceps Iqannes cogno- 
mento Plantagenet, Rex Caftiliae & Legionis, 
Dux Lancaftriae, Comes Richmondiae, Leycef- 
triae, Lincolniae & Derbiae, locum tenens 
Aquitaniae, magnus Senefchallus Anglia^, 
Obiit Anno Regni Regis Richardi Secundi 
xxi. Annoquc Chrifti M.ccc.xc.vili. 

Duae 



HENTZNER^s Travels. 12 

Daughter and Heirefs of Peter, King of 
Caftile and Leon, in whofe right he moft 
* juftly took the Stile of King of Caftile and 
Leon. She brought him one only Daughter, 
Catherine, of whom, by Henry, are defend- 
ed the Kings of Spain. His third Wife was 
Catherine, of a Knight's Family, a woman 
of great Beauty, by whom he had a nume- 
rous progeny ; from which is defcended by 
the Mother's fide, Henry VIL the moft pru- 
dent King of England, by whofe moft happy 
Marriage with Elizabeth, Daughter of Ed- 
ward IV. of the Line of York, the two Royal 
Lines of Lancafter and York, are united, to 
the moft defired Tranquillity of England. 

The moft illuftrious Prince, John, firnamed 
Plantagenet, King of Caftile and Leon, Duke 
of Lancafter, Earl of Richmond, Leicefter^ 
aud Derby, Lieutenant of Aquitain, High- 
Steward of England, died in the 21ft Year of 
Richard IL A, D. 1398. 

* This is not true^ for her legitimacy was 

with good reafon contejled* 

A little 



13 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Duae poftea arculae faxeae, m concavo qiko- 
dam loco, prope Chori fere introitum videntur, 

additd tabella, cum hac infcriptione : 

Hie jacet Seba Rex Orientalium Sax6- 
num, qui converfus fuit ad fidem per S, 
Erckenwaldum, Londinenfem Epifcopum, 
AnnoChrifti dc.lxxvii. 

Altera infcriptio eft talis : 

Hic Jacet Etheldredus Anglorum Rex filiiis 
Edgari Regis, cul in die coniecrationts fuae^ 
poft impofitam coronam fertur S. Dunftanus 
Cantuar. Archiepifcopus dira pra^dixilTe his 
verbis : 

t *•' Quoniam adfpirafli ad regnum per 
" mortem fratris tui, in cujus fanguine con- 
*' fpiraverunt Angli, cum ignominiosa mat re 
*' tua, non deficiet gladius de dome tua faevi- 
*^ ens in te omnibus diebus vitae tuae, infi- 
*^ cicns de femine tuo, quoufque regnum 
** tuum transferatur in alrenum, cujus ritum 
** & linguam gens, cui pr?tfides, non nov^r, 

" nee 



HENTZNER's Travels. 13 

A little farther, almoft at the entrance of 
the Choir, in a certiiin recefs, are two fniall 
ftone chefts, one of which is thus infcribed : 

Here lies Seba, King of the Eaft Saxons, 
who was converted to the Faith by St. Er- 
kenwald, Bilhop of London, A. D. 677. 

On the other: 

Here lies Ethelred, King of the Angles, 
Son of King Edgar ; on whom St. Dunflari 
is faid to have denounced vengeance, on his 
coronation-day, in the following words : 

f ^^ In as much, as thoii haft afpired td 
'' the throne by the death of thy broth:?r, 
^* againft whofe blood the Englifh, along 
'^ with thy infamous mother, confpired; the 
<' fword (hall not pafs from thy houfe ! but 
*^ rage all the days of thy life, afflicling all 
*' thy generation, till thy kingdom Ihall be 
*' tranflated to another, whofe manner, and 
" language, the people under thee, knoweth 
F " not* 



X4 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

'' nee expiabitur, nifi longa vindifta, pecca- 

'' turn tuum, & peccatum matrls tuje, & 

^^ peccatum virorum, qui infuere confilio 

*' tuo nequam." 

Qiiae, ficut a viro SaiiiSlo praedi£la erant, 
evenerunt; nam Etheldrcdus variis pr^ellis, 
per Suenonem Danorum regem, filiumque 
fuum Canutum, fatigatus & fugatus, ac tan- 
dem Londini ar6ta obfidione conclufus mifere 
diem obiit, Anno Domino M.xvii. poftquam 
annis xxxvi. in magna tribulatione regnaflet. 

Monumentum poftea in medio tempi i ex 
orichalco eft, cujufdam Epifcopi Londinenfis 
Gulielmi, qui Edwardo regi Angliae familia- 
ris, & paulo poft Gulielmi regis Angliae con- 
filiarius fa6lus, fedit annos xvi. mortuus 
Anno Chrifti m.lxxvii. Non longe videtuF 
haec infcriptio : 

Fivit fojl funera Virtus. 
Et fub ifto haec ; 
Thomjc Linacro, clarifs. Medico, Joannes 
Cajus pofuit. M.DrLVii. M. Augufto* Poftea 

talia 



HENTZNER's Travels. 14 

** not. Nor fhall thy fin be done away till 
*' after long chartifement, nor the fin of thy 
*' mother, nor the fin of thofe men, who 
«' affifted in thy wicked council." 

All which came to pafs, as predicted by 
the Saint ; for after being worfted and put to 
flight by Sueno king of the Danes, and his 
fon Canute ; and at laft clofely befieged in 
London, he died miferably A. D. 1017, after 
he had reigned 36 years in great difficulties. 

There is befides in the middle of the 
church a tomb made of brafs, of fome 
Bifhop of London, named William, who 
was in favour with Edward king of England, 
and afterwards was made counfellor to king 
William. He was Bifhop 16 years, and died 
A. D. 1077. Near this, is the following 
infcription : 

Virtue furvlves the FuneraU 
To the Memory of 
Thomas Linacre, an eminent Phyfician, 
JC'hn Caius placed this Monument. On the 
F 2t lower 



\ 



JS HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

talis infcripticr, litcris aureis, in inferiori parte 
pofita legitur : 

Thomas Linacrus, Regis Henrici VIIL 

MedJcus, Vir & Graecae & Latinae artis, 
in re medica Ipnge eruditilTimus, multos aetate 
fua langi^entes, & qui jam anirnum defpon- 
derant, Vitae reftituit, multa Galeni opera, 
in Latinam linguam, mira &fingulari facundia 
yercit, egregjum opus de emendata ftruci:ura 
Latiiii fermonis^ amicprum rpgatii, paulo 
ante mortem edidit, Medlcinae ftuJiofis Oxo- 
T\\d£ publicas lediones duas, Cantabrigae 
unam in perpetuum ftabilivit; in hac Urbc 
Collegium Medicorum fieri fua induRria cu* 
ravit, ciijus & praefidens primus eledtus efi:, 
fraudes dolofque mire perofus fiduique amicis, 
omnibus Ordinibus juxta char us, aliquot 
ahhos antequam obiret prefbyter faclus, ple« 
nus annis ex hac vita migravlt, niultum defi- 
dcratus, Anno Domhii m.d.xxiv. die xx. 
D£tobris. 

Sunt 



HENTZNER's Travels. 15 

lower part of it, is this infcription in gold 
letter^ ; 

Thomas Linacre, Phyfician to king Henry 
VIII. a Man learned in the Greek and Latin 
Languages, and particularly fkilful in Phyfick, 
by which he reftored many from a State of 
Janguifliment and defpair to Life. He tranf- 
lated with extraordinary Eloquence many of 
Galen's Works into Latin ; and publifhed, 
a little before his Death, at the requcfl of 
his Friends, a very valuable Book on the 
corre/ft Stru61:ure of the Latin Tongue. He 
founded in perpetuity in favour of Students 
in Phyfick, two public LecSures at Oxford, 
and one at Cambridge. In this City he 
brought about by his own Induflry the efta- 
blifhino; of a College of Phvficians, of which 
he was elected the firft Prefident. He was 
a detefler of all Fraud and Deceit, and faith- 
ful in his Friendfhips ; equally dear to Men 
of all Ranks : He went into Orders a few 
Years before his Death, and quitted this Life 
full of Years, and much lamented, A. D. 
1524, on the 20th of October. 

There 



i6 HEMTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Sunt & alia plura In hoc templo epitaphia 
fed abfque infcriptionibus. Organum poftea 
pneumaticum habet egregium, & horis vefper- 
tinis, aliis adjundtis inflrunicntis^ exceliens 
mufica auditur. 

In fuburbio, OcciJcntem verfus, quod 
continuatis a^dibus, & fuperbis fecundum 
Thamefim procerum habitationibus. West- 
MONASTF.RiUM oppidulum plus mill. pafs. ad- 
jurtvSum ufbi addidit, Thorney olimafpinis, 
nunc Westmunster ab occiduo fitu & 
Monafterio dicSlium, templum ei\ inauguratione 
fegum Angliae, & regia fepultura imprimis 
infigne ; Apollinis delubrum eo loci extitiflc 
dim fama eil, & Antonino Pio imperantc 
terrae motu corruifle ; ex cujus reliquiis, Se- 
bertus rex orientalium Saxonum alterum D, 
Petro erexit, quod a Danis dcje6tum renova- 
vit & pauculis Monachis Dunflanus Epifco- 
pus conceilit. Sod poftea iEdvvardus rex, 
cognomento Confeflbr, fibi in fepulturam & 
Ecncdiftinis Monachis in monafterium, ex 

dccimus 



HENTZNER's Travels, i6 

There are many tombs in this church, 
but without any infcriptions. It has a very 
fine Organ, which at evening prayer, accom- 
panied with other inftruments, is delightful. 

In the fuburb to the Weft, joined to the 
city by a continued row of palaces belonging 
to the chief nobility, of a mile in length, and 
lying on the fide next the Thames, is the 
fmall town of Westminster ; originally 
called Thorney from it's thorn bufhes, but 
now Westminster, from it's afpeft and 
it's Monaftery. The church is remarkable 
for the coronation, and the burial of the 
kings of England. Upon this fpot is faid 
formerly to have flood a temple of Apollo, 
which was thrown down by an earthquake in 
the time of Antoninus Pius ; from the ruins 
of which Sebert king of the Eaft-Saxons 
creeled another to St. Peter : This was fub- 
verted by the Danes, and again renewed by 
bifhop Dunftaii, who gave it to a few Monks. 
Afterwards, king Edward the Confeflbr built 

it 



I'j HENTZNERI Itikerarium, 

decimis cmnlum fuorum reddltuum de inte- 
gro conftruxit, & patrimoniis tota Anglia dii- 
perfis ditavit# 

111 hoc tcmpio, notata drgna furit fe-* 
quentia : 

In primo Choro ell tumulus Annas Cllven- 
fis uxoiis Henrici VIII. abfque infcriptionc. 

Ex oppofito funt fepulchra duo lapidea : 
I. Edmundi Comiti& Lancaftrise, fratris Ed- 
wardi I. II. Adenaeri de Valentia, Comitis 
Benbrochije, filii Gulielmi- de Vakntia^ His 
adjunvSluin eft III. ex marmore aIbo> Ave- 
lin-e Comitiffie Lancaftriae. 

In fccundo Choro videtur fella, in qua re- 
ges inaugurationis tempore fedent ; huic in- 
clufus efie dicitur lapis Patriarchae Jacobi, fu- 
pra quem dormiens recumbebat, cum haberet 
fomnium de fcala ad coelum ufque pertin- 
gente ; adjeftae tabellae hi verfus funt in- 
fcripti : 

Si" 



HENTZNER's Travels. 17 

it entirely new, with the tenth of his whole 
revenue, to be the place of his own burial, 
and a convent of Benedictine Monks; and 
enriched it with eftates difperfed all over 
England. 

In this church, the following things are 
worthy of notice : 

In the firft Choir, the tomb of Anne of 
Cleves, wife of Henry VIII. without any 
infcription. 

On the oppofite fide are two ftone fepul- 
chres. I. Edward, Earl of Lancafter, bro- 
ther of Edward I. 11. Ademar of Valence, 
Earl of Pembroke, fon of Ademar of Valence. 
Joining to thefe is a III. of Aveline Coun- 
tcfs of Lancafter. 

In the fecond Choir is the chair on which 
the kings are feated, when they are crov/ned ; 
in it is enclcfed a ftone, faid to be that on 
which the Patriarch Jacob ficpt, when he 
dreamed he (inv a ladder reaching quite up in- 
G to 



i8 HENTZNERI Itinerarium, 

Si quid hatent veri, vel Chronica cana, fidefve, 

Clauditur hac cathedra nobilis ecce lapis. 
Ad caput eximius Jacob quondam Patriarcha 

Quern pofuit, cernens numina mira poli. 
Quern tulit ex Scottis fpolians quafi viilor 
honoris 

Edvvardus primus. Mars velut omnipotens. 
Scottorum domitor nofter validiilimus Heftor, 

Anglorum decus & gloria militiae. 



Richardi II. monumentum cum uxore eX 
orichalco deaurato, his verfibus in circuitu 
fcrfptis : 

Prudens & mundus Richardus jure Secundus 
Per fatum villus jacet hie fub marmore picSusj 
Verax fermone fuit & plenus ratione, 
Corpore procerus, prudens animo ut Homerus, 
Ecclefiae favit, elatos fuppeditavit, 
Qucmvis proftravit, Regalia qui violavit. 

ETctra 



HENTZNER's Travels. i8 

to heaven. The following verfes are vi^rltten 
upon a tablet hanging near it ; the fenfe of 
which is : 

That if any Faith is to be given to ancient 
Chronicles, a Stone of great Note is inclofed. 
in this Chair, being the fame on which the 
Patriarch Jacob repofed, when he beheld the 
miraculous defcent of Angels. Edward I. 
the Mars and Heftor of England, having 
conquered Scotland, brought it from thence. 

The tomb of Richard II. and his wife, 
of brafs gilt, and thefe verfes written round it : 

Perfect: and Prudent, Richard, by right the 

Second, 

Vanquifh'd by Fortune, lies here now 

graven in Stone, 

True of his Word, and thereto well refbund ; 

Seemly in Perfon, and like to Homer, as one 

In worldly Prudence, and ever the Church in one 

Upheld and favour'd, cafting the proud to 

Ground, 
And all that would his Royal State confound. 

Dart. 

G Z Without 



19 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Extra tumulum talis eft infcriptio : 

Hie jacet immiti confumtus morte Richardus, 
Anno 1369, Fuijfe felicem miferrimum. 

Huic adjun£lus eft tumulus conjugis ipfius 
Quas fuit filia Wenceflai Imperatoris. 

Ad latus fmiftrum eft Edvvardi I. fepul- 
chrum cum hac infcriptione : 

Edwardus primus Scottorum malleus hie eft. 
An. 1308. PaSfumferva, Regnavit An. 46, 

Edvvardi III. monumcntum ex cupro deau- 
rato cum hac infcriptione : 

Hie deeus Anglorum, flos Regum praeteritorum, 
Fbrma futurorum,Rex clemens^pax populorum, 
Tertius Edwardus Regni complens jubi- 
leum, &c. 

Extra 



" HENTZNER's Travels. 19 

Without the tomb is this infcription : 

Here lies King Richard, who perifhed by a 

cruel Death, in the Year 1369. 

To have been happy is additional Mifery. 

Near him is the monument of his queen, 
daughter oft he Emperor Wenceflaus. 

On the left hand is the tomb of Edward I. 
with this infcription : 

Here lies Edward I. who humbled the Scots. 

A. D. 1308. Be true to your Engagements. 

He reigned 46 years. 

The tomb of Edward III. of copper gilt, 
with this epitaph ; 

Of Englifh Kings here lycth the beauteous 

Flower, 
Of all before paft, and Myrror to them fhall 

fue : 
A merciful King, of peace Confervator, 
The Third Edward, ^c. 

Fid. Dart. 2. 44. 

Befide 



20 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Extra tumulum hoc legitur : 

Tertius Edwardus fama fuper aethera notuj,: 
Anno 1377. Pugna pro P atria. 

Videtur ibidem gladius ipfius, quo Gallos do* 
mafle &viciire dicitur, longitudine odo pedum, 

Conjugis ejus Philippas Epitaphium eft tale; 
Gonjunx Edvvardi jacet hie Regina Philippa. 

Difce vivere. Anno 1469. 

Henrici V. monumentum paululum hinc 
eft remotum, cum infcriptione tali : 

Gallorum maftrix jacet hie Henrieus in Urna. 
Anno 1422. Do?nat omnia virtus. 

Huic vieinum eft monumentum Catharinnp, 
quae adhue infepulta jacet, ita ut arcula vel 
urna a quolibet poffit aperiri, hac infcriptione 
extcrius addita : 

Pulchra virumq; fuum fociat tandem Catharina. 
Anno 1437. Otiumfuge. 

Henrici 



HENTZNER's Travels, 20 

Befide the tomb are thefe words : 

Edward III. whofe Fame has reach'd to Heaven. 
A. D. 1377. Pight for your Country, 

' Here is Ihown his fword, eight feet in 
length, which they fay he ufed in the con- 
queft of France. 

His queen's epitaph : 

Here lies Queen Philippa, Wife of Edward HI. 

Learn to Live, A. D. 1369. 

At a little diftance, the tomb of Henry V. 
with this legend : 

Henry, the fcourge of France, lies in thisTomb, 
Virtue fubdues all Things, A. D. 1422. 

Near this lies the coffin of Catherine, un- 
buried, and to be opened by any one that 
pleafes. On the outfide is this infcription : 

Fair Catherine is at length united to her Lord. 
A, D. 1437. ^^^ Idlenefs. 

The 



21 HENTZNERI Itineraricm. 



Henrici III. epitaphium ex lere deaurato 
cum hac infcriptione ; 



Tertlus Henricus eftTempli conditor hujus. 

Anno 1273. 

Duke helium inexpertis. 

Hie Henricus poft 160. annos, hanc Ed-r 
wardi fabricam fubvertit, novamque ecclefiam 
fpeciosa ftrudlura, multiplici marmorearum 
columnarum ordine, tefto laminis plumbels 
conveftito, quinquaginta annorum opere ex- 
aedificavit, quam Abbates ad occafum pluri- 
;nuni auxerunt. Expulfis poftea Monachis, 
ad varias fubinde vices revoluta fuit ; primum 
Decanum habuit & Praebendarios, mox Eplf- 
copum, qui patrimonio dilapidate) ceilit, & 
Decano reliquit 5 ftatim Monachi, cum fud 
Abbate, a Maria regina redu6ti, quibus paulo 
poft authoritate Parlamentaria eje^lis in col- 
Icgiatam ecclefiam, imo ecclefiae plantarium 

convertit 



HENTZNER's Travels. aj 

The tomb of Henry III. of brafs gilt, with 
this epitaph : 

Henry III. the Founder of this Cathedral. 

A. D. 1273. 

Tf^ar is delightful to the unexperienced* 

It was this Henry, who 160 years after 
Edward the ConfelFor had built this church, 
took it down, and raifed an entire new one of 
beautiful architeJlure, fupported by rows of 
marble columns, and it's roof covered with 
fheets of lead, a work ©f 50 years before it's 
completion. It has been much enlarged at the 
Weft end by the Abbots. After the expul- 
fion of the Monks, it experienced many 
changes ; firft it had a Dean and Prebendaries ; 
then a Bifhop, who having fquandered the re- 
venues, refigned it again to a Dean. In a 
little time, the Monks with their Abbot were 
reinftated by queen Mary; but they being 
foon ejedled again by authority of Parlia- 
ment, it was converted into a Cathedial 
Church 3 nay, intaa feminary for the Church, 
H by 



22 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

convertit fereniHima Jiv^a Elifabetha, Praeben- 
darios inftitult duodecim, tot emeritos milites, 
fcolafticos quadraglnta (alumni regii dicuntur) 
qui fuo tempore ad Academias promoventur, 
& in Ecclefiam & Rempubllcam transferuntur, 

Videtur poftea tumulus Aleonorae filiae Al- 
phonfi regis Hifpaniae, conjugis Edvvardi I. 
regis Angliae cum hac infcriptione : 

Confors Edwardi Primi fuit haec Aleonora, 
Anno 1298. Difce inoru 

Elifabethae filiae Henrici VII. regis Angliae 
epitaphium. 

In medio Chori hujus fepultus eft S. Edvvar- 
dus, qui fuit ultimus rex Saxonum. Monu- 
mentum eft ex marmore Mofaici operis, hac^ 
in circuitu aureis Uteris, infcriptione addita: 

Omnibus infignis Virtutum laudibus Heros 

Sandus Edward us Confeffor, rex venefaTrdus. 

Quinto die Jani moriens 1 065, 

Super sethera fcandit. 

Surfum Corda, 

Tertlum 



HENTZNER's Travels. 2i 

by queen Elizabeth, who inftituted there 12 
Prebendaries, an equal number of invalid 
Soldiers, and 40 Scholars; who at a proper 
time are elected into the Univerfities, and 
are thence tranfplanted into the Church and 
State. 

Next to be {^cn is the tomb of Eleanor, 
daughter of Alphonfo king of Spain, and 
wife of Edward I. w^ith this infcription : 

This Eleanor was Confort of Edward I. 
A. D. 1298* Learn to die. 

The tomb of Elizabeth, daughter of 
Heniy VII. 

In the middle of this Chapel is the Shrine 
of St. Edward, the laft king of the Saxons. ' It 
is compofed of marbles in Mofaic ; round it 
runs this infcription in letters of gold : 

The venerable King, St. Edward the Confeflbr, 

A Hero adorned with every Virtue. 

jfle died on the fifth of January, 1065, 

And mounted into Heaven. 

Lift up your Hearts, 

{J« The 



23 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Tcrtium Chorum, admirandi fplendoris & 
elegantiae, Henricus VII. Angliae rex, in fuam 
& fuae pofteritatis fepulturam, ad ortum adje- 
cit, in quo fepulchrum ipfius magnificent iili- 
mum, ex aere Sc marmore fabrefactum cerni- 
tur cum infcriptione tali ; 

Hie jacct Henricus hujus nominis VII. An- 
glian quondam Rex, Edmundi Richemundiae 
Comitis filius, qui die xxii, Aug. Rex 
creatus, ftatim poft apud Weftrnonaflerium 
XXX. 06lobr. coronatur. Anno Domini 
M.cccc.LXXXV. Moritur deinde xxi. April. 
Anno JEt. liii. Regnavit annos xxii. Men- 
fes VIII. minus uno die. 

Monumentum clathris ex orichalco circum- 

datum eft. 

Fide Dart, p. 157. vol. i. 

Sub eodem tumulo fepultus jacet Edvvar- 
dus VI. Angliae Rex, Henrici VIII. ex loan- 
na Semeria filius, qui poftea fiicceflit patri, 
natus annos novem. Obi i t A nno iM . d . l 1 1 1 . v 1 . 

Julii 



HENTZNER's Travels, 23 

The third Choir, of furprlzing fplendor and 
elegance, was added to the Eaft end by Henry 
VII. for a burying place for himfelf and his 
pofterity. Here is to be feen his magnificent 
tomb, wrought of brafs and marble, with 
this epitaph : 

Here lies Henry VII. of that Name, for- 
merly King of England, Son of Edmund 
Earl of Richmond, who afcending the Throne 
on the 2 2d Day of Auguft, was crowned on 
the 30th of OcSlober following at Weftmin- 
jfter, in the Year of our Lord 1485. He died 
on the 2ift of April, in the 53d Year of his 
Age, after a Reign of 22 Years, and 8 
Months, wanting a Day. 

This monument is inclofed.with rails of 
brafs, with a long epitaph in Latin verfe. 

Under the fame tomb lies buried Edward 
VI. King of England, Son of Henry VIII. 
by Jane Seymour. He fucceeded to his 
Fatlier when he was but 9 years old, and died 
A. D. I553> on the 6th of July, in the i6th 

year 



24 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

JuliiiEt. XVI. Regni vii. non abfque veneni 
fufpicione. 

Maria falutatur regina Anglian a populo, 
XIX. Julii anno poftea m.d.lviii. moritur 
Maria xvii. Novembris, in eodem Choro, in 
quod am angulo fepulta jacet, abfque infcrip- 
tione tamen. 

Regina Elifabetha. 

Hie jacet Regina Elifabetha, Edvvardi IV. 
quondam Regis lilia ; Edwardi V. quondam 
Regis nominata foror ; Henrici VIL olim 
conjunx, & quse Henrici VIII. Regis mater 
inclyta. Obiit diem fuum in Turri Londi- 
nenfi, die xi. Febr. Anno Domini 1502. 
xxxvii. An. JEt2.t, 

Intra fecundum & tertium Chorum, in fa^ 
cellis lateralibus, haec epitaphia leguntur : 

Seberti Regis Orientalium Saxonum, fun- 
datoris tempi i, ex faxo. 

Margarethae Ritfchmundias Septimi Hen- 
rici matri, Oftavi avia?, quae ftipendia con- 

ftituit» 



HENTZNER's Travels. 24 

year of his age, and of his reign the 7th, not 
without fufpicion of poifon. 

Mary was proclaimed Qi^ieen by the People, 
on the 19th of July, and died in November, 
1558, and is, buried in fome corner of the 
fame Choir, without any infcription. 

Queen Elizabeth. 

Here lies Queen Elizabeth, Daughter of 
Edward IV. Sifter of King Edward V. 
Wife of Henry VII. and the glorious Mother 
of Henry VIII. She died in the Tower of 
London, on the nth of February, A. D« 
1502, in the 37th Year of her Age. 

Between the fecond and third Choirs, la 
the fide Chapels, are the tombs of Sebert 
King of the Eaft-Saxons, who built this 
Church with ftone : And 

Of Margaret of Richmond, Mother of 
Henry VII. Grandmother of Henry VIII. 
She gare this Monaftery to the Monks of 

Winbournc, 



25 HENTZNERI Itikerarium. 

ftitult, tribiilt hoc Ccenobium Monachis, 
& Doctorlbus Grammatices, apud Werbrun, 
perque Angliam totam divini verbi prccconi- 
bus ; duobus item interpretibus literarum 
facrarum, alteri Oxoniis, altcri Cantabriglse, 
ubi & Collegia dua Chrifto & Joanni difci- 
pulo ejus ftruxit. Moritur Anno Domim 
M.cccc.Lxiii. Cal. Julii. 

Margaretha Comitifla Levenofciae, avia 
Jacobi VL Regis Scottorum. 

Wilhelmus de Valentia, frater uterinum 
Henrici III. 

Comes Cornubiae frater regis Edward i III, 

In tumulu quodam talis infcriptio legitur : 

In Clariflimae Dominac Francifcae SufFolciae 
quondam Duciflae Epicedion, 

Nil 



HENTZNER's Travels. 25 

* Winbourne, who preached and taught 
Grammar all England over, and appointed 
Salaries to tv/o ProfefTors of Divinity, one at 
Oxford, another at Cambridge, v/here (he 
fo\jhded tv/o Colleges, to Chriii, and to John 
his Difciple. She died A. D. 1463, on the 
3d of the Calends of July. 

And of Margaret Countefs of Lenox, 
Grandmother of James VI. King of Scotland. 

William of Valence, half brother of Henry 
III. 

The Earl of Cornwall, brother of Ed- 
ward III. 

Upon ai^.other tomb is an honorarv infcrip- 
tion for Frances, Dutchefs of Suftblk ; I'he 
i€n(e of it is, 

* Tbis IS amljlakc : Her epitaph fays ^ flip'^n- 
dia conftituit tribus hoc csenobio Monachis & 
DoSori Grammatices apud Vv"^ynbourne. 

I That 



26 HENTZNERI Itinerarium, 



Nil decus aut fplendor, nil regia nominsi 
profuiit, 

Splendida divitiis, nil juvat ampla domus ; 
Omnia fluxerunt, virtutis Tola remanfit 

Gloria, tartareis non abolcnda rogis. 
NuptaDuci prius eft, uxor poft arma gercntis, 

Funere nunc Stoki confociata Df.o. 

In confpeftu deinde eft epitaphium Domini 
Ruffel filii Comitis Bcthfordiae, cujus uxor hos 
Latinos & Graecos verfus compofuit, & in 
marmor incidi curavit. 

Mens mea crudcli laniatur faucia morfu. 
Cum fubit oblata? Mortis Imago tuse. 

Hseres Vere novo Comitis tu Floris ad inftar, 
Uique cadens miferas meque meafque facis. 

Quippe Decor, Vultus, Linguae, Morefque 
probati. 
Turn Do&ina peril, fed viget alma Fides. 



HENTZNER's Travels. 26 

That Titles, Royal Birth, riches, or a large 

Family, arc of no avail ; 
That all are Tranfitory ; Virtue alone reflift- 

ing the Funeral Pile. 
That this Ivady was firfl: married to a Duke, 

then to Stoke, a Gentleman ; 
And laftly, by the Grave efpoufed to Christ. 

The next is the tomb of Lord Ruflcl, Son 
of the Earl of Bedford, wfiofe Lady com- 
pofed the follow^ing Greek, and Latin Verfes, 
and had them engraved on the Marble. 

How was I ftartled at the cruel Feaft, 
By Death's rude Hands in horrid manner dreft ; 
Such Grief as fure no haplefs Woman knew. 
When thy pale Image lay before my View. 
Thy Father's Heir in -beatuous Form array'd. 
Like Flowers in Spring, and fair, like them 

to fade ; 
Leaving behind unhappy wretched me. 
And all thy little Orphan-Progeny : 
Alike the beauteous Face, the comely Air, 
The Tongue perfwafive, and the A6lions fair. 
Decay : So Learning too in Time fhall wafte i 
But Faith, chafle lovely Faitb, fhall ever lafl* 
I 2 The 



27 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Kvp "^vx^^ yXvav ri^TTpov ifxrtq omels (fanvovf 

^Bv fj^v o1 ^v^ou •xjri^fiy zs^oci T6 St^yol^i?, 

'Ev<T£^kri^ Evexa 'oroXvv o}^ov enuvoi; Iwaypy, 
Ov^ctvie ^slop(iii crvfyivsa^ xsc^.tuif. 

Anna Comltiffa Oxon. filia Gulielmi Caeci- 
lii, Baronis de Burgthley, Thefaararii regis. 

Phillppa filia, & cohseres Joannis Domini 
Mohun de Dunftcr, uxor EdwardiDucis Ebo* 
racenfis. Anno Domini 1434* 

Francifca ComitifTa de Suflex, ex antiqua 
Scidneiorum familia oriunda. 

Thomas Bromley Cancellarius reginae Eli- 
fabcthae. 

Comes 



HENTZNER's Travels. 



27 



The once bright Glory of his Houie, the Pride 
Of all his Country, dufty Ruins hide : 
Mourn, haplefs Orphans, mourn, once happy 

Wife, 
For when he dy'd, dy'd all the Joys of Life. 
Pious and jufl, amidfl a large Eftate, 
He got at once the Name of Good and Great. 
He made no flatt'ring Parafite his Gueft, 
But afk'd the good Companions to the Feaft. 

Anne Countefs of Oxford, Daughter of 
V/illiam Cecil, Baron Burleigh, and Lord 
Trcafurer, 

Philippa, Daughter and Coheirefs of John 
Lord Mohun of Dunftcr, Wife of Edward 
Duke of York. 

Frances Countefs of Suflex, of the antient 
Family of Sidney. 



Thomas Bromley, Chancellor to Qiiccn 
Elizabeth* 

The 



28 HENTZNERI Itinf.rarium. 



Comes de Erizevvater, Dom, Dabne, Ca- 
merarius KenricI Septimi, cum uxore. 

Et hue ufque ^^ Westmonasterio. 

Sunt h alia templa in hac urbe plurima, 
{c6^ propter fepulturas, 5: illuftrium moiiurnen- 
ta, non it.i celebria, 

Cetemm {\xh hoc Westmunster-Hall 
five Pr.Ttorium eft, in. quo praeter comitia 
Parlamcntaria, quae ibi fepiilime habentur, 
fora judiciaria com1"ituuntur, & ftatis tempo- 
ribvrs cauffie cognoicuntur, ciim Juris turn 
patrimonii regii, & etiam Cancellarias, qua- 
ex nequo h bono fummum Jus moderatur^ 
cum ante Hcnrici L tempora, primae Juflitis: 
forum vagum effet, aulamque regiam comita- 
rctur. Verum ille, ut m Charta Magna 
Iiabetur, legem tulit in ha^c verba ; Cc?mnuma 
fjJcrcita noji fequaniur Curiam nojiram^ fed tenc- 
(iniur in aliqito ccrto loco. Hoc qwod nunc eft, 

Prxtorium, 



HENTZNER's Travels. 28 

* The Earl of Brlclgcwatcr, Lord Dawb- 
ney, Lord Chamberlain to Henry VIL and 
his Lady. 

And thus much for WEsrMiKsrv.R^ 

There are many other Churches in this 
city, but none To remarkable for the tombs of 
perfons of diftinition. 

Near to this church is Westminster- 
Hall, where befides the Seflions of Parlia- 
ment, which are often held there, are the 
Courts of Juftice ; and at ftated times are 
heard there trials in Law, or concerning the 
King's patrimony ; or in Chancery, which 
moderates the feverity of the common Law 
by Equity. Till the time of Henry L the 
prime court of Juftice was moveable, and fol- 
lowed the King's court, but he ena6led by the 
Magna Charta, That the Common Pleas JJjould 
no longer attend his Courts but he held at form 
determined Place. The prefent hall was built 

* Sir Giles Dawbney^ ht was not earl of 
Bridgetvater^ nor a lord* 



29 FIENTZNERI IriNERARidM. 

Prstorium, Richardus JL Anojia? rex, diruto 
vctuitiori extruxit, fureque habitationi dlcavit 
(tunc enim reges ipfi caufiiis audiebant Pala-' 
tiumqiie ab Edvvardi Confcflbris tempore ad- 
jiindbam habuerunt) quo ante fexagHita annos 
igne abilimto, Henricus VilL fedem regi-im, 
ad aedes vicinas non ita pHdem Gardiiialis 
Wolfrci tranftulit, quas Whitehall vuk'b 
vocant, id eft, aula alba. Domus hnec eft 
vere regia, hinc -vivario, quod & alteram re- 
giam conjungit S. James diciam, iilinc Ta- 
iiiifi ccncliiCa. 

In Camera, ubi Parlamcntum congregari 
& haberi folet, fdia: ilf parietcs ex Ugno Hy- 
hernico fabrlcati llint, quod occulta hac qua- 
litatc pradituni effe dicitur, ut kl omnia anl- 
malta venenata fugiant, vcl potlus, quod lig- 
num iftud cuncSta venenata ablgat, h occulta 
quadam vi, a fe longe repellat. Et enim pro 
certo afHrmatur, nullos ferpentes, nullos a- 
raneos, nullaque alia venenata, per totam 
Hybcrniam reperiri animalia. 

Prope 



HENTZNER's Travels. 25 

by king Richard II. in the place of an ancient 
one which he caufed to be taken down. He 
made it part of his habitation, (for at that 
time the kings of England determined caufes 
in their own proper Perfon, and from the 
days of Edward the ConfefTor, had their pa- 
lace adjoining) till above 60 years fmce, upon 
it's being burnt, Henry VIII. removed the 
royal refidence to Whitehall, fituated In 
the neighbourhood, which a little before was 
the houfe of Cardinal Wolfey : This palace 
is truly Royal ; inclofed on one fide by the 
Thames, on the other by a Park, which con- 
ne6ls it with St. James's, another royal 
palace. 

In the Chamber where the Parliament is 
ufually held, the feats and wainfcot are made 
- of wood, the growth of Ireland; faid to have 
that occult quality, that all poifonous animals 
are driven away by it : And it is affirmed for 
certain, that in Ireland there are neither 
ferpents, toads, nor any other venomous crea- 
ture to be found. 

K Near 



30 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Prope has regias sedes Cygni confpiciun- 
tur plurimi, & fere innumerabiles, qui hinc. 
inde furfum & deorfum, per aliquot milliaria, 
in Thamefi fluvio libere vagantur; nemirii 
enim hos turbare, multo minus occidere, fine 
grand! muldta, licet. 

In aula alba, Withehall vulgo nuncu- 
pata, vifu digna funt fequentia : 

I. Bibliotheca Reginae, Graecis, Latinls, 
Italicis & Gallicis libris referta, inter quos li- 
bellus erat Gallicus, propria reginae Angli^e 
Ellfabethae adhuc viventis manu in mem- 
brana fcriptus, & Henrico VIII. Angliae regi 
parenti fie dedicatus : 

A Trejhaut ^ Trefpuijfant & Redoubt} Prince 
Henry VIII* de ce nom^ Roy d' Angleterre^ de 
France^ ^ d' Irelande^ defenfeur de la foy : 

Elijah eth fa Treshumhle fille rend 
Sahit y Oheditnci. 

Omnes 



HENTZNER's Travels. 30 

Near this palace are fcQn an immenfe num- 
ber of Swans, who wander up and down the 
river for fome miles, in great fecurity ; no 
body daring to moleft, much lefs kill any of 
them, under penalty of a confiderable fine. 

In Whitehall are the following things 
worthy of obfervation : 

I. The Royal Library, well ftored with 
Greek, Latin, Italian and French books : 
Amongft the reft, a little one in French, 
upon parchment, in the hand writing of the 
prefent reigning queen Elizabeth, thus in- 
fcribed : 

To the mojl High^ PuiJJant^ and redoubted 
Prince^ Henry VIIL of the Name^ King of 
England^ France and Ireland^ Defender of 
the Faith : 

Elizabeth^ his mojl humble Daughter y 
Health and Obedience, 

K % All 



31 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Omnes ifti libri, holoferico varii & diverfi 
colons, potiflimum tamen rubri, laminis & 
claufuris argenteis ac aureis, margaritis item, 
aliifque gemmis preciofis ornati, atque veftiti 
erant. 

II. Ciftae duae five arculae argenteae magna 
arte elaboratae, in quas regina papyrum repo- 
ncrc, & iis ceu atramentariis, uti folet. 

III. l^horus reginae ex ligno verficolore arr 
tificiofiflime compofitus, tegumentis fericis, 
holofericis, aureis & argenteis acu pidtis ditiili- 
m^ inftratus. 

IV. Cifta, margaritis undique exornata, in 
quam armillas inaures & id genus alias res pre- 
ciofiores, regina reponere folet. 

V. PafTio Chrifti, in vitreis tabellis adum- 

brata. 

VI. ViSiutXj inter quas vera reginas Elifa- 
bethae imago, cum xvi. annos nata effet; 

Henrici, 



HENTZNER's Travels. 31 

All thefe books are bound in velvet of dif- 
ferent colours, though chiefly red, with clafps 
of gold and fdver; fome have pearls, and 
precious flones, fet in their bindings. 

II. Two little filver cabinets of exquifite 
work, in which the Queen keeps her paper, 
and which fhe ufes for writing boxes. 

III. The Queen's bed, ingenioufly com- 
pofed of woods of difFerent colours, with 
quilts of filk, velvet, gold, filver, and em- 
broidery. 

IV. A little cheft ornamented all over with 
pearls, in which the Queen keeps her bracelets, 
ear-rings, and other things of extraordinary 
value. 

V. Chrift's paflion, in painted glafs. 

VI. Portraits : Among which are queen 
Elizabeth at 16 years old, Henry, Richard, 

Edward, 



32 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Henrici, Richardi, Edvvardi, Angliae regum ; 
Rofimundae Anglae, & * Lucretiae Grascae fponfae 
in habitu nuptiali, & aliarum ; in tabella qua- 
dam Angliae regum genealogia ; Edvvardi VL 
Angliae regis efRgies, primo intuitu monftro- 
fum quid repraefentans, fed fi quis per foramen 
operculi vel tabellae, qua pi6tura tegitur, eiH- 
giem re6i:a iiitueatur, tum vera depraehenditur ; 
ingeniofum artificis inventum ; Caroli V. Rom. 
Imperatoris ; Caroli Emanuelis Sabaudia^ Du- 
cis, & Catharinae Hifpaniae conjugis ipfius ; 
Ferdinandi Florentiae Ducis cum filiabus ; 
Philippi regis Hifpaniae, cum veniret in Ang- 
Jiam, 5c matrimonio fibi jungeret Mariam 
Angliae reginam ; Henrici VII. Hehrici VIII. 
matris ejufdem, item aliorum, aliarumque il- 
luftrium imagines quam plurimae ; picSlura ob- 
fidionis infulae Melites, five Malthas. 

VIT. JEdlcuh cujufdam Eremitae, elegan- 
tifTime ex ligno fculpta, inter faxa quafi delite- 
fcentis. 

VIII. Emblemata varia papyracea, clypei 
forma m habentia, quibus^ adje\Sis fymbolis 

* This ynujl he a blunder, 

Nobiles 



HENTZNER's Travels. 32 

Edward, kings of England ; Rofamond ; 
Lucrece, a Grecian bride, in her nuptial habit ; 
the genealogy of the kings of England ; a 
picture of king Edward VI. reprefenting at 
firft fight fomething quite deformed, till by 
looking through a fmall hole in the cover, 
which is put over it, you fee it in it's true 
proportions ; Charles V. Emperor ; Charles 
Emanuel Duke of Savoy, and Catherine of 
Spain, his wife ; Ferdinand Duke of Flo- 
rence, with his daughters ; one , of Philip 
king of Spain, when he came into England 
and married Mary ; Henry VII. Henry VIII. 
and his mother : Befides many more of illuf- 
trious men and women ; and a picture of the 
fiege of Malta* 

VIL A fmall Hermitage, half hid in a rock, 
finely carved in wood. 

VIIL Variety of emblems, on paper, cut 
in the fhape of fhields, with mottoes, ufed 
by the nobility at tilts and tournaments, hung 
up here for a memorial. 

IX. 



33 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Nobiles in exercitiis equeftribus & gladiatoriis 
uti funt foliti, hie memoriae caufsa fufpenfa. 

IX. Varia inftrumenta mufica, & inter ea 
unum, in quo duo fimul & una vice ludere 
pofTunt. 

X. Machina horaria, in qua Rhinoceros 
cum ^thiope ei infidente confpicitur, quatuor 
aliis veluti miniftris ad latera aftantibus, rcgem- 
que portantibus, ac ad noire fonitum capita 
infleftentibus ; haec omnia moventur ubi rotae 
intenduntur. 

Porro in adjuncfti huic. Aulae Vivarii introi- 
tu, talis legitur infcriptio : 

ISfiis pifcator tandem faptt^ 
Sed infelix A5iccon fcmpcr praceps. 

Cajia Virgo facile miferetur ; 

Sed potens Dea fcelus ulcifciUir, 

Prada cantbus^ exemplum JuvenibuSj 

fiiis dedecus^ peredt ASiaon, 

Cura co?lit!buSy chara mortalihus^ Juts fecuritds^ 

Vivat Diana, 

In 



HENTZNER's Travels. 33 

IX. Different inftruments of mufic, upon 
one of which two perfons may perform at 
the fame time. 

X. A piece of clock-work, an ^thiop 
riding upon a Rhinoceros, with four atten- 
dants, who all make their obeifance, when it 
ftrikes the hour ; thefe are all put into motion 
by winding up the machine. 

At the entrance into the Park from White- 
hall is this infcription ; 

* The Fijherman who has been wounded^ learns 

though late to beware ; 

But the unfortunate ASieson always preffes on^ 

The chafte Virgin naturally pitied: 

But the powerful Goddefs revenged the wrongs 

Let A^lteon fall a prey to his DogSy 

An Example to Touth^ 

A difgrace to thofe that belong to him ! 

May Diana live the care of Heaven ; 

The delight of Mortals ; 
The fecurity of thofe that belong to Her ! 

* This romantic infcription probably alluded 
to Philip II. who woed the Queen after her 
fifter's death ; and to the deftrudion of his 
Armada. L lu 



34 HENTZNERI Itinerarii;m. 

In vivario videntur damae, magno numero. 

In alio quodam horto, hulc arci contiguo, 
eft fons falientis aqu.e, cum horologio folari, 
quod dum peregre advenientes contemplantur, 
aqua ex fiftulis copiose erumpit, & circum- 
ftantes largiflime afpergit, hortulano a longin- 
quo rotam quandam circumagente, qua aqua 
ifta propellitur. 

Domus Senatoria vel publica quae GuiL- 
THAL vulgo vocatur, a Thoma Knovvles pul- 
cherrime conftruvSa eft, in qua duorum Gy- 
gantum ftatuae videntur, qui Anglis auxilio 
fuIlTe dicuntur, cum Roman! eos bello perfe- 
querentur ; iftorum nomina funt, Corinius 
Britannus, Goemagott Albionus. Subeft in 
tabula quadam titulus Caroli V, Imperatoris, 
aurejs Uteris fcriptus. 

Status Relpublicae in hac urbe eft talis ; 
urbs ipfa in xxv. reglones feuTribus divifa eft ; 
^ronciliumque reipub. penes xxiv. fenes confti- 
tutum, qui ab astate, lingua vulgari Alterman» 
id eft, fenatores appellantur^ quorum finguli 

fingulis 



HENTZNER's Travels. 34 

In this Park is great plenty of Deer. 

In a garden joining to this palace, there is 
a Jet d'eau, with a fun-dial, which while 
ftrangers are looking at, a quantity of water, 
forced by a wheel, which the gardiner turns 
at a diftance, through a number of little pipes, 
plentifully fprinkles thofe that are ftanding 
round. 

Guild-Hall, a fine ftrufture, built by 
Thomas Knowles : Here are to be ken the 
ftatues of two Giants, faid to have aflifted 
the Englifti when the Romans made war 
upon them ; Corinius of Britain, and Gog- 
magog of Albion, Beneath upon a table the 
titles of Charles V. Emperor are written in 
letters of gold. 

The government of London is this : The 
city is divided into 25 Regions, or Wards ; 
the council is compofed of 24 Aldermen, one 
of which prefides over every Ward. And 
whereas of old, the chief magiftrate, was a 
Portreve, /. e. Governor of the city : Richard I. 
appointed two Bailiffs 5 inftead of which, 
h % king 



2S HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

fingulis Tribubus praefunt ; et cum antiquitus 
pro fummo Magiftratu Porgreve, id eft, urbis 
praefedum habuiflcnt, duos Ballivos Rich- 
ard us I. inftituit, pro qui bus Joannes rex, ut 
Majorem five Praetorem annuum Magiftratum, 
fuis fufFragiis e XII. primariis corporibus eli- 
gerent voluit, duofque Vicecomites, Schirifs 
vulgo nuncupatos, quorum alter regius, ur- 
banus alter dicitur, nominarent. Atqye hac 
Reip. forma conftituta, incredibile eft, quan- 
tum publicis privatifque operibus ha^^enus urbs 
haec creverit. GulieL Carnhden In Britannia 
fub tit, Midlefex. 

Ceterum notatu dignum hlc eft, quod Ma- 
jor five Praetor hujus loci quotannis die Bar- 
tholomasi Apoftoli, quo nundinrc & encct^nia 
habentur, cam xii. primariis fejiatoribus^ in 
campum vicinum folet exfpatiari, toga purpu- 
rea ami6lus, & catena aurea cui appenfa finit 
infignia in formam aurei Vclleris, cin<Sus, 
ornatus infijper infigni Perifcelidis ordinis or- 
namento, quo quilibct in hac dignitatc con- 
ftitutus dccor^tur k to to Magiftratus annui 

tempore 



HENTZNER's Travels. 35 

king John gave a power by grant, of chufing 
annually a Mayor, from any of the twelve 
principal Companies, and to name two 
Sheriffs, one of which to be called the 
King's, the other, the City's. It is fcarce 
credible how this city encreafed, both in pub- 
lic and private buildings, upon eftablifhing 
this form of government. Vide Camhdcris 
Britan, Middlefex. 

It is worthy of obfervation, that every year 
upon St. Bartholemew's day, when the Eair 
is held, it is ufual for the Mayor, attended by 
the 12 principal Aldermen, to walk in a neigh- 
bouring field, dreffed in his fcarlet gown, and 
about his neck a golden chain, to which is 
hung a * Golden Fleece, and befides, that 
t particular ornament, which diftinguifhes the 
moft noble Order of the Garter. During 
the year of his Magiftracy, he is obliged to 
live fo magnificently, that Foreigner or Na^ 

* This probably alluded to the woollen inanvfac- 
ture j Stow 7nentions his riding through the Cloth 
Fair^ on the Eve of St. Bartholemew^ p. 65 1 . 

t The Collar of SS, tive, 



36 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

tempore ita magnificum fe exhibere cogitur, 
ut quibufvis & incolis & peregrinis, ad men- 
fam ejus, variis epulis inftru6lifrimam, modo 
vacet locus, abfque ulla impensa accedere 
quotidie liberum fit. Exeunti extra urbem 
praefertur fceptrum, gladlus & pileus ; fe- 
quuntur primarii Senatores, omnes equltes, 
licut & ipfe Major, rubris togis veftiti, & ca- 
tenis aureis cinfti ; ubi ad locum deftinatum, 
& tentorium ibidem ereftum, ventum eft, qui- 
dam ex plebe prodeunt & luftando bini ac 
bini fe exercent ; vi^tores a Magiftratu prae- 
mia acclpiunt ; dimittuntur poftea in circum- 
fufam & promifcuam multitudinem cuni- 
culi vivi, quos pueri magno clamore infeftan- 
tur. Huic fpeftaculo cum intereflemus, qui- 
dam forte ex noftro com ita tu, Thobias Salan- 
der nomine, medicinae Do(3or, crumenam cum 
IX. coronatis folaribus amifit, quam procul 
dubio lateri ejus femper adhaerens Anglus ita 
ingeniose fubtraxerat, ut Salander ne mini- 
mum quidem perfentifcerct. 

Aix 



HENTZNER's Travels. 36 

tive, without any expence, is free, if he can 
find a chair empty, to dine at his table, 
where there is always the greateft plenty. 
When the Mayor goes out of the precin6ts 
of the city, a fcepter, a fword, and a cap, 
are born before him, and he is followed by 
the principal Aldermen in fcarlet gowns, 
with gold chains ; himfelf and they on horfe- 
back : Upon their arrival at a place appoint- 
ed for that purpofe, where a tent is pitched, 
the mob begin to wreftle before them, two at 
a time ; the conquerors receive rewards from 
the Magiftrates. After this is over, a parcel 
of live Rabits are turned loofe among the 
crowd, which are purfued by a number of 
boys, who endeavour to catch them, with 
all the noife they can make. While we were 
at this fhew, one of our company, Thobias 
Salander, Dodor of Phyfic, had his pocket 
picked of his purfe, with nine crowns du foleil, 
which without doubt was fo cleverly taken 
from him, by an Englifhman who always, 
kept very clofe to him, that the Doctor did not 
in the leaft perceive it. 

The 



2^ HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 



Arx five TuRRis LoNDiNENSis, Britan- 
nice ab albedine Bringwin & Tourgwin, 
apellata, fofsa admodum profunda & lata, ac 
muro duplici & alto probe cincSta eft, in hujus 
centro, Turris ilia antiquiflima & fortiflima, 
quatuor aliis turribus inclufa, & a Julio 
Caefare quorundam opinione condita, cerni- 
tur. Hanc arcem cum ingrederemur, glaJil 
ad portam deponendi, & fatellitibus tradendi 
eraiit. Poftea a quodam introduvSli, mon- 
ftrabantur nobis tapetia regia ultra centum, 
a urea, argentea, & ferica \ fellae regiae ho- 
loferico varii coloris coopertae, magnus lecSlif- 
terniorum apparatus, veluti conopcea, & id 
genus alia margaritis ditiflime exornata, turn 
veftimenta regia magnificentifHma, quae omnia 
propter impenfas maximas facile quemvis in 
fui admirationem trahere poterant. Inde in 
Armamentarium ducli ; in quo hsec peculia- 
ria ; haftae ex quibus ejaculatur ; hafta^ alias 
multae, & fplendidx, quas partifan vulgo ap- 
pellant, & quibus ad defenfionem regii cor- 
poris in bello fatellites utuntur ; lanceae holo- 

ferico 



HENTZNER's Travels. 37 

The Castle, or Tower of London, 
called Bringwin, and Tourgwin, in 
Welch, from it's whitenefs, is encompafTed 
by a very deep and broad ditch, as well as a 
double wall very high. In the middle of the 
whole is that very antient and very ftrong 
Tower, enclofed with four others, which in 
the opinion of fome, was built by Julius 
Caefar. Upon entering the Tower, we were 
obliged to quit our fwords at the gate, and 
deliver them to the guard. V/hen we were 
introduced, w^e were fhewn above a hundred 
pieces of arras belonging to the crown, made 
of gold, filver, and filk ; feveral faddles cover- 
ed with velvet of different colours ; an im- 
menfe quantity of bed-furniture, fuch as cano- 
pies, and the like, fome of them moft richly 
ornamented with pearl ; fome royal drefles, 
fo extremely magnificent, as to raife any one's 
admiration at the fums they muft have cofl*. 
We were next led into the Armoury, in which 
are thefe particularities : Spears, out of which 
you may fhoot ; fhields, that will give fire four 
times ; a great many rich halberds, coihmon- 
M ly 



I 



38 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

ferico rubro, & viridi teniae, cum Henrici 
VIII. Anglise regis armatura ; arma multa^ 
ac egregia, tarn pro viris, quam pro equis in 
equefiri pugna ; lancea Caroli Brandeii Suffol- 
ciae, quae trcs fpithamos crafTa erat ; tormenta 
duo, ex quorum altero tres, ex altero feptem 
globi pofTunt explodi ; duo tormenta lignea 
magnitudinis immenfae, quibus Angli in op- 
pugnatione Boloniae, Gallise oppidi, aliquan- 
do funt ufi ; quo ftratagemate, cum alias im- 
poflibile fuiflet, cum ejufcemodi tormentis ap- 
propinquare ad oppidum, Bolonienfes territi, 
fefe Tub certis conditionibus dediderunt ; xix, 
tormenta crafliora ; & xxxvi. quodam modo 
minora, erant in camera peculiar! ; alia item 
tormenta, ex quibus catenas, globulique fran- 
gendis navium malis apti exploduntur. Ba- 
liftae, arcus, fagittae, quibus etiamnum hodie 
in exercitiis uti folent Angli magno numero : 
Et quis omnia referre queat ? Expolitioni au- 
tem rerum harum bellicarum omnium, vix ofto 
vel novem viri quotannis fufficiunt. 

Officina 



HENTZNER's Travels. 38 

ly called partuifans, with which the guard de- 
fend the Royal perfon in battle ; fome lances, 
covered with red and green velvet, and the 
body-armour of Henry VIII. ; many, and 
very beautiful arms, as well for men, as for 
horfes in horfe-fights ; the lance of Charles 
Brandon Duke of Suffolk, three fpans thick ; 
two pieces of canon, the one fires three, 
the other {even balls at a time ; two others 
made of wood, which the Englifh had at the 
feige of Boulogne, in France, and by this 
{tratagem, without which they could not have 
fucceeded, they ftruck a terror into the inhabi- 
tants, as at the appearance of artillery, and 
the town was furrendered upon articles ; 19 
canon, of a thicker make than ordinary, and 
in a room apart ; 36 of a fmaller ; other 
canon for chain-ftiot ; and balls proper to 
■bring down mafts of fhips. Crofs-bows, 
bows and arrows, of which to this day the 
Englifh make great ufe in their exercifes : But 
who can relate all that is to be feen here ? 
Eight or nine men, employed by the year, arc 
fcarce fufficient to keep all the arms bright. 

M 2 The 



39 HENTZNERI Itinerarium, 

Oificlna praeterea eft in hac arce monetaria, 
cudendis regiis nummis occupata. 

N. B. Notandum hie, quod fi quis ex illuf- 
triore familia facinus aliquod magnum perpe- 
tret morte dignum, crimen nimirum laefae ma- 
jeftatis, aut fimile quid, is huic arci includitur, 
& rariiT^mum eft, ut inde liberetur, . & falvus 
dimittatur, Hie decapitata fuit Anna Bolenia 
Henrici VIII, Angliae regis conjiinx, ibidem- 
que in Sacello fepulta, fed abfque infcriptione : 
Regina quoquc Elifabetha in hoc ergaftulo 
captiya fuit detenta a forore Maria Angliae 
regina, qua tandem vita defunfta, inde libera- 
ta, atque ad regnj gubernatipnerp legitime fuit 
evocati;, 

Egreili ex hac arcc in domunculam propin- 
quam concefiimus, in qua diverfi generis alun- 
tur animalia, tres videlicet Lenenae, & Leo 
unus ingentis miignitudlnis, quern Edvvardum 
fextum vocitant, CO quod regis iftius tempore 
natus hie fit, Tigris, Lynx, Lupus, valde anno- 
fus, quod rarinimum in Anglia animal, unde 

etiam 



HENTZNER's Travels. 39 

The Mint for coining money is in the 
Tower. 

N, B. It is to be noted, that when any of 
the nobility are fent hither, on the charge of 
high crimes, punifhable with death, fuch as 
treafon, ^c, they feldom or never recover 
their liberty. Here was beheaded Anna 
Bolen, wife of king Henry VIII. and lies 
buried in the Chapel, but without any infcrip- 
tion : And queen Elizabeth was kept prifoner 
here by her fifter queen Mary, at whofe 
death fhe was enlarged, and by right called to 
the throne. 

On coming out of the Tower, we were 
led to a fmall houfe clofe by, where are kept 
variety of creatures, viz, three Lioneffes, one 
Lion of great fize, called Edward VI. from 
his having been born in that reign ; a Tyger, 
a Lynx ; a Wolf, exceflively old ; this is a 
very fcarce animal in England, fo that their 
fheep and cattle ftray about in great numbers, 
free from any danger, though without any 

body 



40 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

etiam numerofi ovium greges & armenta hinc 
inde abfque cuftodibus impune oberrant ; item 
Hiftrix, Aquila : Atque haec animalia omnia 
in loco remotiori, & ad banc rem defignato, 
clathris ligneis circumfepta, Reginae fumptibu* 
aluntur. 

Prope banc arcem, area eft fatis ampla, in 
cujus eminentiore loco contabulatio lignea 
ere*£la eft, fuppliciis illuftrium deftinata, fuper 
qua tres Angliae principes, fuae familas ultimos, 
Isefa^ majeflatis reos, decollatos efle fertur : In 
ripa Tbamcfis fluvii huic arci contigua, pluri- 
ma videntur tormenta, & aenea, & ferrea, 
quorum praecipuus in mari eft ufus. 

Vifu deinde & notatu dignum quoque eft in 
hac urbe periftylium five Janum medium, 
Burfam vulgus, regina Elifabetha Excambi- 
UM Regium dixit, ad negotiatorum ufum & 
urbis ornamentum, a Thoma Grefbamo Eque- 
Uris ordinis cive pofitum ; magnificam illud 
quidem, five sedificii ftru£!:uram, five gentium 
frcquentiam, five mercium copiam fpc6les ; ut 
etiam Hanfiaticae Societatis domum omittam, 
& aquas, fubterraneis cimiculis, & fypbonibus, 

in 



HENTZNER's Travels. 40 

body to keep them ; there ia befidcs, a Porcu- 
pine, and an Eagle : All thefe creatures are 
kept in a remote place, fitted up for the pur- 
pofe with wooden lattices, at the Qiieen's 
expence. 

Near to this Tower, is a large open fpace, 
on the higheft part of it is ere6ted a wooden 
fcafFold, for the execution of noble criminals 5 
upon which they fay, three princes of Eng- 
land, the laft of their families, have been be- 
headed for high treafon : On the bank of the 
Thames clofe by, are a great many canon, 
fuch chiefly as are ufed at fea. 

The next thing worthy of note, is the 
Royal Exchange, (o named by queen 
Elizabeth, built by Sir Thomas Grefham, 
Citizen, for public ornament, and the con- 
venience of merchants. It has a great efFe<3:, 
whether you confider the ftatelinefs of the 
building, the aflemblage of different nations, 
or the quantities of merchandife. I fhall fay 
nothing of the hall belonging to the Hans 

Society ; 



41 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

in omnes urbis regiones derivatas, illifque re- 
cipicndis elegantiilima caftella feu labra ; no- 
vum etiam aquedu6lum, quo hydragogi Ger- 
man! folers induftria, rota e Thamefi aquas 
in magnam urbis partem, tubulis certo libra- 
mine difpofitis, ante paucos annos deduxit. 

Britwel, Corre6tionis domus hodie, quon- 
dam in Caroli V. Rom. Imperatoris gratiam, 
intra fpatium fex hebdomadarum extrudla. 

Ah ALL, domus a Sutore quodam aedifica- 
ta, Reip. Londinenfi deftinata, in qua fmgulis 
feptimanis ter venduntur merces variae, ut 
pote frumentum, lana, panni, frudus, & alia. 

Sunt porro Londini extra urbem Thea- 
TRA aliquot, in quibus Hiftriones Angli Co- 
mcedias Sc Tragoedias fmgulis fere diebus, in 
magna hominum frequentia agunt, quas va- 
riis etiam faltationibus, fuaviilima adhibita 
mufica, magno cum populi applaufu fin ire 
folcnt. 

Non lon^e ab uno horum theatrorum, 
quae omnia lignea funt, ad Thamefim Navis 

eft 



HENTZNER's Travels. 41 

SpGiety 5 or of the conveyance of water to 
all parts of the town by fubterranncous 
pipes, nor the beautiful conduits and ciilerns 
for the reception of it ; nor of the rifing of 
water out of the Thames by a wheel, in- 
vented a few years fince by a German. 

BjRiDEWELL, at prefent the Houfe of 
Correftion : It was built in fix weeks for 
the reception of the Emperor Charles V. 

A Hall, built by a Cobler, and beftowed 
on the city, where are expofed to fale three 
times in a week, corn, wool, cloth, fruits, 
and the like. 

Without the city are fome Theatres, 
ivhere Englifh Actors reprefent almoft 
every day Tragedies and Comedies to very 
numerous audiences ; thefe are concluded 
with excellent mufic, variety of dances, and 
the exceflive applaufe of thofe that are 
prefent. 

Noitf^r frpm c>ne of thefe Theatres, which 

.are all built of wood, lies the Royal Barge, 

N clofe 



4ii HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

feft Rcgia, qu^ duo egfegla habet conclavi^^ 
feneftris pellucidls, plcluris & fculpturis elegan- 
ter exornata, in ficco & quidem fub tedlo col- 
locata, propterea ut a pluviis & coeli inju- 
ria immunis fit* 

Eft & alius poftea locus Theatri quoque for- 
mam habens, Urfdrum & Taurorum vena- 
tionibus deftinatus, qui a poftica parte alligati 
a magnis illis canibus & moloffis Anglici^, 
quos lingua vernacula doften appellant, mire 
exagitantur, ita tamen, ut faepe canes ifti ab 
Urfis vel Tauris dentibus arrepti, vel corni- 
bus impetiti, de vita periclitari, aliquando 
etiam animam exhalare ibleant, quibus fic vel 
lailis ftatim fubftituuntur alii recentes & magis 
alacres. Accedit aliquando in fine hujus 
fpe^laculi Urfi plane excaecati flagellatio, 
ubi quinque vel fex, in circulo conftituti, Ur- 
fiim flagellis mifere excipiunt, qui licet alliga- 
tus aufugere nequeat, alacriter tamen fe de-* 
fend it, circumftantes, & nimium appropin- 
quantes, nifi re6le & provide fibi caveant, 
profternit, ac flagella e manibus csedentium 
cripit atque confringit» Utuntur in hifce fpec- 

UcuJis 



HENTZNER's Travels. 42 

clofe to the river ; it has two fplendid cabbins, 
beautifully ornamented with glafs windows, 
painting and gilding ; it is kept upon dry 
ground, and {heltered from the v/eather. 

There is ftill another place, built in the 
form of a Theatre, which ferves for the bait- 
ing of Bulls and Bears, they are faftened be- 
hind, and then worried by great Englifh bull- 
dogs ; but not without great rifque to the 
dogs, from the horns of the one, and the 
teeth of the other ; and it fometimes happens 
they are killed upon the fpot 5 frefli ones are 
immediately fupplied in the places of thofe 
that are wounded, or tired. To this enter- 
tainment, there often follows that of whip- 
ping a blinded Bear, which is performed by 
five or fix men, (landing circularly with whips, 
which they exercife upon him without any 
mercy, as he cannot efcape from them be- 
caufe of his chain ; he defends himfelf with 
all his force and (kill, throwing down all who 
come within his reach, and are not a£live 
enough to get out of it, and tearing the 
N 2 whi|)^ 



43 HENTZNERI Itinf.rarium. 

taculis ficut & alibi, ubicunque locorum fint 
Angli, herba nieotiana, quam Americano 
idiomate Tobaca nuncupant (Paetum alii di- 
cunt) hoe modo frequentiffime ; fiftulae m 
hunc finem ex argilla fa6tae, orificio pofteriori 
dictam herbam probe exficcatam, ita ut in pul- 
verem facile redigi poflit, immittunt, & igne 
admoto accenduiit, unde fumus ab anterior! 
parte ore attrahitur, qui per nares rurfufn, 
tanquam per infumibulum exit, & phlegma 
ac capitis defluxiones magna copia Tecum edu- 
cit. Circumferuntur infuper in hifce theatris 
varii fru(5lus venales, ut poma, pyra, nuces & 
pro ratione temporis, etiam vinum & cerevifia. 

Collegia intra & extra urbem quinde^ 
cim hie numerantur, magnifies ItrucSlurje, ad- 
jtin(51tis ubique hortis amdenilTimis, quorum 
praecipua (init tec tria : 

I. Templum, vulgo Te-mpel, in quo 
olirri Templarii, di6lum, uti videtur, c tem- 
plo antkjuiiilmo, cui Tunis rotunda addita^ 

fub 



HENTZNER's Travels. 43 

whips out of their hands, and breaking 
them. At thefe fpe6lacles, and every where 
elfe, the Englifh are conftantly fmoaking 
Tobacco, and in this manner ; they have 
pipes on purpofe made of clay, into the far- 
ther end of which they put the herb, fo dry 
that it may be rubbed into powder, and put- 
ting fire to it, they draw the fmoak into their 
mouths, which they pufF out again, through 
their noftrils, like funnels, along with it 
plenty of phlegm and defluxion from the head. 
In thefe theatres fruits, fuch as apples, pears 
and nuts, according to the feafon, are carried 
about to be fold, as well as ale and wine. 

There are fifteen Colleges, within and 
without the city, nobly built, with beautiful 
gardens adjoining. Of thefe the three prin- 
cipal are : 

I. The Temple, inhabited formerly by 
the Knights Templars : It feems to have 
I taken it's name from the old Temple, or 
Church, which has a round Tower added to 

it. 



44 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Ibb qua eft fepultura regum Danorum, qui 
olim in Anglia regnarunt. 

II. Grezin* & 

III. Lyconsin. 

In hlfce Collcgiis aluntur adolefcentes & 
nobiles & plebeii magno numero, philofophiae, 
theologiae, &me(licinae potiflimum operam dan- 
tes, (pauciflimi enim ad ftudium juris animum 
adjiciunt) laute vivunt, & poculis argenteis 
utuntur. Quod cum aliquando illuftris qui- 
dam vir viJiflet, admirans magnum pocu- 
lorum argenteorum numerum, in haec ver- 
ba prorupifle fertur : *^ Convenire potius 
*' Scholaftlcis ex teftaceis & vitreis quant 
'^ argenteis vafculls bibere." Refponfum ei 
a Collegio : ^' Se omnia fua pocula ipfi 
*^ velle tradere, fi conditionem accipiat, & 
'^ vicifTim fibi de teftaceis & vitreis vafculis 
*' fufficientcr profpiciat ; frequentiflimam enim 
*' horuni confradionem pofle fortaffis ali- 
" quando longe fuperare jeftimationem argen- 
^' teoruni." 

Plateas 



KENTZNER^s Travels. 44 

It, under which lie buried thofe kings of 
Denmark, that reigned in England. 

II. Grays-Inn. And ^ 

III. Lincolns-Inn. 

In thefe Colleges numbers of the young 

nobility, gentry, and others, are educated, 

and cheifly in the ftudy of phyfic, for very few 

apply themfelves to that of the law : They 

are allowed a very good table, and filver cups 

to drink out off. Once a perfon of dif- 

tinftion, who could not help being furprized 

at the great number of cups, faid, '' He 

*' fliould have thought it more fuitable to the 

*^ life of Students, if they had ufed rather 

<' glafs, or earthen-ware, than filver." The 

College anfwered, <' They were ready to 

'« make him a prefent of all their plate, pro- 

*' vided he would undertake to fupply them 

" with all the glafs, and earthen-ware, they 

*< fhould have a demand for; fince it was 

<^ very likely he would find the expence, 

" from confl-ant breaking, exceed the value 

'' of the filver.'' 

The. 



45 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Plateas habet urbs ifta nitidas & mundas ; 
prae reliquis tamen exccllit, quae ab aurifabris 
nomen hab^tj'lin hac turris deaurata cerni- 
tur, cum fonte falientis aquae, cui adjed:ae 
funt ab altero latere aedes fatis fplendidae, ab 
aurifabro quodam olim conftruftae, & reipub. 
donatae ; videntur praeterea in hac potiflimum 
platea, licet idem quoque fit in aliis ubi auri- 
fabri habitant, aurea & argentea yafa propa- 
1am expofita, item antiqua Sc recentia nu- 
mifmata, in tanta copia, ut quemlibet percgre 
advenientem, & ifta contemplantem facile 
in admirationem trahant. 

Fitz-Stephanus Anglicse hiftoriae fcriptor, 
fuo tempore cxxvii. Ecclefias Parochiales & 
XIII. Conventuales Londini numeravit, & 
fada hominum armigerorum oftenfione, qua- 
draginta millia peditum, equitum viginta mil- 
lia, fub fignis Londinenfes eduxifTe Uteris pro- 
didit. Guilhel. CambcL in Britannia fub tit. 
Midlefex. 

OSTREA 



HENTZNER's Travels. 45 

The ftreets in this city are very handfome 
and clean ; but that v/hich is named from 
the gold-fmiths who inhabitjft, furpafies all 
the reft : There is in it a gilt Tower, with 
a fountain that plays. Near it on the farther 
fide is a handfome houfe, built by a gold- 
fmith, and prefented by him to the city. 
There are befides to be (cen in this ftreet, as 
in all others where there are gold-fmiths 
fhops, all forts of gold and filver veflels ex- 
pofed to fale ; as well as antient and modern 
medals, in fuch quantities as muft furprize a 
man the firft time he fees and confiders them. 

Fitz-^'Stephens, a writer of Englifh hiftory, 
reckoned in his time in London, 127 parifli 
Churches, and 13 belonging to Convents : 
He mentions befides, that upon a review 
there of men able to bear arms, the people 
brought into the field under their colours, 
40,000 foot, and 20,000 horfe. Fide Camb- 
dm's Britan, Middle/ex. 

O The 



46 HENTZNERI Itinerariutvt^ 

OsTREA delicatiflimi efus hie magna in 
numero venalia circumferuntur. 
% 

Notiillmum eft & illud, Pannos Angli- 
cos ob mater iae bonitatem valde commendari, 
& in omnia Europae regna & provincias im- 
portari. 

Vidimus in Leonardi Fabri, fartoris, Lon- 
dinenfis sedibus fpeculum excellentiifimum, 
margaritis, auro, argento, & holoferico ita 
exornatum, ut quingentis coronatis folaribus 
aeftimarctur. Habebat idem hippocampum & 
aethitem lapidem, quae ut rara & vifu digna 
libenter afpeximus. 

jftgue hac de LoNDiNO Anglia MeiropolL 

Londino poftea exfpatiandi causa Thamefi 
flumine fecundo digreffis, primum nobis oc- 
currit navis nobiliflimi iftius Pyratae Franclfci 
Draci, qua totum terrarum orbem (five per 
^trumque hemifphaerium) circumnavigafTe di- 

citur. 



HENTZNER's Travels. 46 

The ibeft Oysters are fold Uere in great 
quantitiea. 

Every body knows that English Cloth 
is much approved of, for the goodnefs of the 
rnaterials, and imported into all the kingdoms 
and provinces of Europe. ^ 

We were fliewn at the houfe of Leonard 
Smith, a taylor, a moll perfe£l looking-glafs, 
ornamented with gold, pearl, filver and velvet, 
fo richly as to be eftimated at five hundred 
ecus du foleil. We faw at the fame place the 
liippocamp and eagle ftone, both very curious 
and rare. 

And thus much of London^ 

Upon taking the air down the river, the 
firft thing that ftruck us, was the fhip of that 
noble Pirate, Sir Francis Drake, in which 
he is faid to have Surrounded this globe of 
earth. On the left hand lies Ratcliffe, 
O 2 a coo* 



47 HENTZNERI Itikerarium. 

citur, cujus reliquiae memoriae caufsa adh\ic 
ibi aflervantur ; ad finiftram eft fuburbium fatis 
magnum, Rattelew divftum, cui in altera 
ripa oppofita eft pertica quaedam lignea, cum 
cornibus arietinis fuperius affixis ; qiise vulgo 
fignificare dicuntur, ita puniri etahi, qui fcien^ 
& volens paflus fit alium cum conjuge fua con- 
cumbere, tacite in adulterium confentiendo. 

Venimus deinde ad arcefn I'egiam^ Gron- 
wiDGE feu Grunwidge vulgo dictam, quae 
arx Latinis faltum viridem denotat ; banc Hum- 
fradum Gloceftria^ Ducem aedificare cepifTe, 
& Henricum VIL Angliae regem magnifice 
adauxiffc, fama eft. Nata eft in eadem fe- 
reniiTmia Angliae regina Elifabetba, quae adhuc 
rerum potitur, & in hac libentiffime, praefer- 
tim tempore aeftivo, ob fummam loci amceni- 
tatem efl'e folet. Poftquam banc arcem in- 
grefii fumus,' ex mandato fummi Cubiculari- 
orum Praefedli, quod Dn. Daniel Rogerius im- 
petraverat, in Cameram Praefentationis, un- 
diquaque tapctis preciofis exornatam, (pavi- 
mcntum vero, uti in Angliae moris eft, foeno 

crat 



. HENTZNER's Travels. 47 

a confiderable fuburb : On the oppofite fhore 
is fixed a long pole with rams-horns upon it, 
the intention of which was vulgarly faid to 
be, a reflection upon wilful and contented 
cuckolds. 

We arrived next at the royal palace of 
Greenwich, reported to have been origi- 
nally built by Humphrey Duke of Gloucefter, 
and to have received very magnificent addi- 
tions from Henry VIT. It was here Eliza- 
beth, the prefent queen, was born, and here 
flie generally refides ; particularly in fummer, 
for the delightful nefs of it's fituation. We 
were admitted by an order Mr. Rogers had 
procured from the Lord Chamberlain, into 
the Prefence-Chamber, hung with rich tapef^ 
try, and the floor after the Englifh fafliion, 
ftrewcd with * hay, through which the 
Queen commonly pafles in her way to chapel : 
At the door ftood a Gentleman drefl'ed in 
velvet, with a gold chain, whofe oflfice was 

* He probably Means rujhes. 

to 



4$ HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

crat conftratum) quam Regina, quando in 
facellum ad preces ire vult, tranfire folet ; ad 
janum ftabat nobilis quidam veftibus holoferi- 
cis amiiStus, $c catena aurea cinctus, qui Co- 
mites, Barones, Nobiles & alios utriufque 
fexus, Reginam adire cupientes, ad eandem 
deducebat ; (erat tiim forte dies Dominicus, 
quo magnates plerumque reginam invifere 
folent) in camera, quam dixi, praeftolabantur 
reginam Epifcopi Cantuarienfis & Londinen- 
fis, Confiliarii, Officiarii, & Nobiles magno 
numero ; poftea cum hora precum inflaret, 
Regina ex fuo conclavi prodiit, tali cum co- 
mitatu : 



Praeibant Nobiles, Barones, Comites, & 
Equites Ordinis Perifcelidis, omnes fplendidc 
veftiti, & capite detefto ; proxime antecede- 
bant duo, alter qui fceptrum Regni, alter qui 
gladium in vagina rubra aureis liliis diftinfta 
reconditum, cufpide furfum versa, portabat, in- 
ter quos medius procedebat magnus Anglia* 
Canccllarius, figillum Regni in marfupio ho- 
lofcrico rubro gerens 5 hos fcquebatur Regina^ 

aetatis. 



HENTZNER^s Travels. 48 

to introduce to the Queen any Perfon of Dif- 
tiiKSion, that came to wait on her: It was 
Sunday, when there is ufually the greateft 
attendance of Nobilit)% In the fame hall 
were the Archbifhop of Canterbury, the 
Bifliop of London, a great number of Coun- 
fellors of State, Officers of the Crown, and 
Gentlemen, who waited the Queen's coming 
out ; which fhe did from her own apartment, 
when it was time to go to Prayers, attended 
in the following manner : 

Firft went Gentlemen, Barons, Earls, 
Knights of the Garter, all richly dreffed and 
bare-headed ; next came the Chancellor, 
bearing the Seals in a red-filk Purfe, between 
Two ; one of which carried the Royal Scep- 
.ter, the other the Sword of State, in a red 
fcabbard, ftudded with golden Fleurs de Lis, 
the point upwards : Next came the Quecn> 
in the Sixty-fifth Year of her Age, as wc 
were told, very majeftic ; her Face oblong, 
fair, but wrinkled ; her Eyes fmall, yet 
black and pleafant ; her Nofe a little hooked ; 
her Lips narrow, and her Teeth black ; (a 

defea 



49 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 
aetatis, uti rumor erat, Lxv. annorum, mag-, 
na cum majeflate, facie oblonga & Candida, 
fed rugosa, occulis parvis, fed iiigris & gra- 
tiofis, nafo paululum inflexo, labiis compreflis, 
dentibus fuliginofis (quod vitium ex nimio 
faccari ufu Anglos contrahere verifimile eft) 
inaures habens duas margaritis nobiliffimis 
appenfis, crinem fulvum fed fad^itium ; capiti 
impofita erat parva qurxdam corona, quae ex 
particula auri celeberrimas illius tabulae Lunae- 
burgcnfis fadla effe perhibetur ; pecSore erat 
luida, quod virginitatis apud Anglos nobiies 
fignum eft ; nam maritatae funt tedtae ; col- 
lum torques gemmis nobiliftimis refertus 
circumdabat ; manus erant graciles, digiti 
longlufculi, ftatura corporis mediocris ; in in- 
ceffu magnifica, verbis blanda & humanifH- 
ma ; irxduta forte turn temporis erat vefte ferJ- 
ca alba, cujus oram margarkae preciofiiTimse 
fabarum magnitudine decorabant, toga fuper- 
inje6la ex fcrico nigro, cui argentea fila ad- 
mifta, cum Cauda longiftima, quam March io- 
nifia pone fequens a pofteriori parte elevatam 
geftabat ; collare habebat oblongum, vice 
catenae, gemmis & auro fulgens. Turn, 

cum 



HENTZNER's Travels. 49 

dcfcA the Englifh feem fubje^ to, from their 
too great ufe of fugar) fhe had in her Ears 
two pearls, with very rich drops ; fhe wore 
falfe Hair, and that red -, upon her Head fhe 
had a fmall Crown, reported to be made of 
fome of the gold of the celebrated Lune- 
bourg table * : Her Bofom was uncovered, 
as all the Englifh ladies have it, till they mar- 
ry ; and fhe had on a Necklace of exceeding 
fine jewels ; her Hands were fmall, her 
Fingers long, and her Stature neither tall 
nor low ; her air was flately, her manner 
of fpeaking mild and obliging. That day 
file was drefled in white Silk, bordered with 
pearls of the fize of beans, and over it a 
Mantle of black filk, fhot with fdver threads ; 
her Train was very long, the end of it born 
by a Marchionefs ; inflead of a Chain, fhe 
had an oblong Collar of gold and jewels. 
As fhe went along in all this flate and mag- 
nificence, fhe fpoke very graciouily, firfl to 

* Jt this diftance of t'lme^ it is difficult to 
fay wkat this was, 

P one. 



50 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

cum tali in pompa & magnificentia incederet, 
nunc cum hoc, mox cum alio Icquebatur 
perhumaniter, qui vel legationis vel alterius 
rei caufla eo venerant, utens nunc materno, 
nunc Gallico, nunc Italico idiomate ; nam 
praeterquam quod Graece & Latine eleganter 
eft do6^a, tenet ultra jam commemorata 
idiomata, etiam Hifpanicum, Scoticum & 
Belgicum ; omnes illam alloquentes, pedibus 
flexis id faciunt, quorum aliquos interdum 
manu elevare folet. Hos inter forte tum erat 
Baro quidam Bohemus, Gulielmus Slawata 
nomine, Reginae literas offerens, cui manum 
dextram chirotheca detrafta, annulis & lapi- 
dibus preciofiflimis fplendentem porrexit of- 
culandam, quod maximum infignis clementiae 
fignum eft ; in tranfitu, quocunque faciem 
vertit, omnes in genua procidunt ; fequeba- 
tur Gynaeceum ex Comitiffis, Baroniflis, & 
Nobilibus feminis, fumma pulchritudine & 
forma excellentibus conftans, & maxima ex 
parte, veftimentis albicans; ab utroque latere 
comitabantur earn Satellites nobiles cum haftis 
deauratis, quorum quinquaginta funt numero ; 
in praeambula Sacelli, quod huic atrio conti- 



HENTZNER^s Travels. 50 

one, then to another, whether foreign Mi- 
niflers, or thofe who attended for different 
reafons, in Englifh, French and Italian ; for 
befides being well fkilled in Greek, Latin, 
and the Lano:uao;es I have mentioned, (he is 

DO ■' 

miftrefs of Spanifli, Scotch, and Dutch : 
Whoever fpeaks to her, it is kneeling ; now 
and then (he raifes fome with her Hand. 
While we were there, W, Slawata, a Bo- 
hemian Baron, had letters to prefent to her; 
and fhe, after pulling off her glove, gave 
him her right Hand to kifs, fparkling with 
rings and jewels, a mark of particular Fa- 
vour : Wherever fhe turned her Face, as fhe 
was going along, every body fell down on 
their * knees. The Ladies of the Court 
ibllowed next to her, very hand fome and well- 

* Her Father had been treated with the fame 
deference* It is mentioned by Fox in his ASfs 
and Monument Sy that when the Lord Chancellor 
went to apprehend queen Catherine Parr^ he 
Jpoke to the King on his knees* 

Kiftg fames L fuffered his courtiers to omit it. 

Bacon's Papers, v. ii. p. 516, 

P 2 fhaped, 



51 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

guum eft, porriguntur ipfi libelli fupplices, 
quos bcnigniffime accipit, unde tales fiunt ac- 
clamationes ; GOD save the Quene 
ELISABETH! hoc eft, DeusfahetRe- 
ginam El'ijahetham ; ad quae populo fic ipfa 
refpondet ; I thanoke you myn good 
P E U P E L, id eft ; Ago tihi gratias popule 
mi bone. In facello habebatur excellens mu- 
fica, qua finita una cum precibus, quae vix 
ultra dimidiam horam durabant, Regina 
cadem magnificentia & ordine, quo antea 
difceiTerat, redibat & ad prandium fe confere- 
bat. Interea vero dum facris intererat, vidi- 
mus illi apparari menfam hac adhibita (o- 
lemnitate : 

Primo Nobilis quidam atrium ingreflus, 
fceptrum manu tenebat, adjunftum fibi habens 
alium quendam Nobilcm cum mappa, qui 
ambo cum ter fumma cum veueratione genua 
ilexifftnt, alter ad menfam propius aceedens, 
eam mappa infternebat j quo facSo, rurfus 
poplite flexo difcedebant ; veniebant poft hos 
alii duo, quorum alter rurfum cum fceptro, 
alter cum falino, orbe & pane aderat, qui 

cum. 



HENTZNER's Travels. 51 

fhaped, and for the mofl: part drcfied in white ; 
fhe was guarded on each fide by the Gentle- 
men Penfioners, fifty in number, with gilt 
battle-axes ; in the Antichapel next the Hall 
where we were, Petitions were prefented to 
her, and fhe received them moft graci- 
oufly, which occafioned the acclamation of. 
Long live Queen ELIZABETH! 
She anfwered it with, I thank you my 
GOOD PEOPLE. In the Chapel was 
excellent mufic ; as foon as it, and the Service 
was over, which fcarce exceeded half an hour, 
the Queen returned in the fame State and 
Order, and prepared to go to Dinner. But 
while fhe was flill at Prayers, we faw her 
Table fet out with the following Solemnity : 

A Gentleman entered the room bearing a 
rod, and along with him another who had a 
table-cloth, which after they had both kneel- 
ed three times, with the utmoft veneration, 
he fpread upon the tabic, and after kneeling 
again, they both retired. Then came two 
others, one with the rod again, the other 
with a falt-feller, a plate, and bread ; when 

thev 



51 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

cum^ uti priores, ter genua incurvafient, & 
res modo didlae menfae impofitas effent, eadem 
omnino cum ceremonia abtvere. Venit tan- 
demVirgo quaedam Comitifla, uti affirmabatur, 
eximiae pulchritudinis, veftita vefte ferica 
alba, cui erat adjunfta nobills matrona, cul- 
trum prseguftatorlum ferens, quse ter fummo 
cum decore in pedes provoluta, poftea ad men- 
fam acceflit, orbes fale & pane abfterfit, tan- 
ta cum veneratione, ac fi Regina ipfa prae- 
iens fuiffet ; cumque paululum commoratii 
ad menfam eflet, venerunt fatellites Regii, 
onmes capite nudi, fagis rubris induti, qui- 
bus in poftica parte erant affixae rofae aureae, 
fingulis vicibus xxiv. mifliis ferculorum in 
patinis argentcis & maxima ex parte deaura- 
tis, adferentes ; ab his nobills quidam ordine 
cibos accepit, & menfae impofuit ; praegu- 
ftatrix vero cuilibet fatelliti, ex eadem, quam 
ipfemet attulerat, patina, buccellam deguf- 
tandam praebuit, ne aliqua veneni fubelTet 
fufpicio ; dum fatellites ifti, qui centum nu- 
mero proceid corporis ftatura, & omnium ro- 
buftiflimi ex toto Angliae regno ad hoc munus 
fumma cura dcliguntur, fupradi£los cibos ad- 

portarcnt, 



HENTZNER's Travels. 52 

they had kneeled, as the others had done, 
and placed what was brought upon the table, 
they too retired with the fame ceremonies 
performed by the firft. At lafl: came an un- 
married Lady, (we were told fhe was a Coun- 
tefs) and along with her a married one, bear- 
ing a tafting-knife 5 the former was drefled 
in white filk, who when Ihe had proftrated 
herfelf three times, in the moft graceful man- 
ner approached the table, and rubbed the 
plates with bread and fait, with as much 
awe, as if the Queen had been prefent : 
When they had waited there a little while, 
the Yeomen of the Guard entered, bare- 
headed, cloathed in fcarlet, with a golden 
rofe upon their backs, bringing in at each 
turn a courfc of twenty-four difhes, ferved 
in plate moft of it gilt ; thefe diflies were re- 
ceived by a Gentleman in the fame order 
they were brought, and placed upon the 
table, while the Lady-Tafter gave to each of 
the guard a mouthful to eat, of the particu- 
lar difh he had brought, for fear of any poifon. 
During the time that this guard, which con- 
fiils of the talleft and ftouteft men that can 

he 



53 HETNITZNERI Itinerarium. 

portarcnt, erant in aulae area xii. tubicines, 
& duo tympaniftne, qui tubis, buccinis, Sc 
tympariis magno fonitu per fefquihoram 
clangebant. Caeremoniis autem, modo com- 
memoratis, circa menfam abfolutis, aderant 
illico virgines aliquot nobiles, quae fingulari 
cum veneratione cibos de menfa auferebant, 
& in interius & fecretius Reginae cubiculum 
a/portabant. 

Eligere ibi Regina folet quos vult, caeteri 
pro gyniEceo fervantur ; prandet & coenat 
fola paucis aftantibus, atque null us admitti- 
tur, neque peregrinus, neque Regni quoque 
incola, nifi rarifTimc & quidem ex fingulari 
magnatis alicujus interceflione. 

Caeterum prope banc arcem videtur Reginns 
vivarium, in quo variae aluntur ferae ; quern 
admodum & per totam fere Angliam ejufce- 
modi vivaria valde funt frequentia, inter no- 
biliores & ditiores potiilimum. In iflius um- 
bilico Turris eft quadrata antiqua colliculo im- 
pofita, MiREFLEUR nomine, cujus Amadi- 
fium ilium Gailicum in figmentis fuis men- 

tionem 



I 



HENTZNER's Travels. 53 

be found in all England, being carefully fc- 
le6led for this fervice, were bringing din- 
ner, twelve trumpets, and two kettle-drums 
made the hall ring for half an hour together. 
At the end of all this ceremonial a number 
of unmarried Ladies appeared, who with 
particular folemnity lifted the meat off the 
table, and conveyed it into the Queen's in- 
ner and more private chamber, where after 
(he had chofen for herfelf, the reft goes to 
the Ladies of the Court. 

The Queen dines and fups alone with very 
few attendance ; and it is very fcldom that 
any body, foreigner or native, is admitted at 
that time, and then only at the interceinon 
of fomebody in power. 

Near this palace is the Qiieen's Park flock- 
ed with deer: Such Parks are common 
throughout England, belonging to thofe that 
are diftinguifhed either for their rank or riches. 
In the middle of this is an old fquare Tower, 
called MiREFLEUR, fuppofed to be that men- 
tioned in the romance of Am.adis de Gaul ; 
and joining to it a plain, where Knights and 
Q^ other 



54 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

tionem facere, quldam volunt ; hulc contigua 
eft planities Equeftribus exercitiis deftinata, 
in qua ftatis & feftivis temporibus Equite* 
aliique nobiles convenire folent. 

LonJino curru dlfceflirtius loco vicina & 
celebriora viffcndi gratia. 

Vidimus prima arcem Thebal^ vuIo;o 
THiBAULDSy pertmentem ad Dn. Burghley 
Angliae Regni Thefaurarium ; in xyfto de- 
pidta erat Anglrae regum genealogia; huic 
contiguus eft hortus, quern -fofla aqua plena 
fere undiquaque claudit, ita ut quis navigio- 
magna cum voluptate inter fruticeta hinc 
indc fpatiari poflit ; varias ibi reperias arbores^ 
& herbas, labyrinthos magna induftria failos, 
fontem ex marmore candido falientis aquae, 
columnas item & pyramides, turn ex ligno 
turn ex alia materia paftim in horto po'fitas ; in" 
trodu^i poftea ab hortulano in domum aefti- 
vam. Vidimus in inferiore ejus parte, qua? 
femicircularj forma conftru6la eft, xn. impe- 
ratores Romanes ex marmore candido, Sc 
njtenfam ex lydio lapide ; fuperioris parti* 

utrumque 



HENTZNER's Travels. 54 

other Gentlemen ufe to meet at fet times 
and holidays to exercife on horfe-back. 

We left London in a coach, in order to fee 
the remarkable places in it's neighbourhood. 

The firft was Theobalds, belonging to 
Lord Burleigh the Treafurer : In the gallery 
was painted the genealogy of the kings of 
England ; from this place one goes into the 
garden, encompafled with a ditch full of 
water, large enough for one to have the plea- 
fure of going in a boat, and rowing between 
the flirubs ; here are great variety of trees 
and plants ; labyrinths made with a great 
deal of labour ; ajetd*eau, with it's bafon 
of white marble ; and columns and pyramids 
of wood and other materials up and down 
the garden : After feeing thefe, we were led 
by the gardiner into the fummer-houfe, in the 
lower part of which, built femicircularly, are 
the twelve Roman emperors in white marble, 
and a table of touchftone ; the upper part of 
it is fet round with cifterns of lead, into 
which the water is conveyed through pipes, 

CL2 ' fo 



55 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

utrumque latus cingunt labra plumbea, in quae 
aqua per canales eft deducSa, ut in illis pifces 
fervari, Sc asftivo tempore in frigida commode 
lavari poflit ; in alio coenaculo, huic plane 
vicino, & per ponticulum conjunfto, erat 
menfa ex marmore rubro figura ovali. Ad 
arc is hujus penetralia non fumus admiili prop- 
ter abfentiam familiae, quas eodem die funerc 
Domini fui Londini interfuit. 

Hatztan, pagus. 

Ware, vicus. 

BocKRiTSCH, pagus ; Icdios a fervis in 
hdc provincia fterni & praeparari hie primum 
obren-avimus. 

Camboritum, Cantabrigium, & 
Cantabrigia Latinis, vulgo Cambridge 
celeberrimum Angliae regni oppidum, fic dic- 
tum a Camo Huvio, qui cum occidentale ejus 
latus infulis ludens perfperfcrit, ad ortum con- 
verius, in partes difpertit duas, ponteque con- 
jungitur, undc rcceiitiu^ hoc nomen Cam- 

brid2;e 

o 



HENTZNER's Travels. 55 

fo that fifli may be kept in them, and in Turn- 
mer time they are very convenient for bathing ; 
in another room for entertainment very near 
this, and joined to it by a little bridge, v/as 
an oval table of red marble. We v/ere not 
admitted to fee the apartments of this palace, 
there being nobody to (hew it, as the family 
was in tov/n attending the funeral of their 
Lord *. 

HoDSDON, a village. 
Ware, a market tov7n. 

PucKERiDGE, a village ; this was the firfl 
place where we obfcrved that the beds at 
inns were made by the waiters. 

Camboritum, Cantabrigium, and 
Cantabrigia, now called Cambridge, 
a celebrated town, fo named from the river 
Cam, which after wafhing the Weftern-fide, 
playing through iflands, turns to the Eall, and 
divides the town into two parts, which are 

* Lord Trecifurer Burleigh diedy Aug, 4, 1598. 

joined 



56 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

bridge enatum ;, cum Saxonico vocabulo olim 
Grantbridge appellatum fuerit. Ultra 
pontem cernitur Caftellum amplum & vetuf- 
tum in colle fitum, quod a Danis extruftum 
fuifie perhibetur : Cis pontem, ubi urbis pars 
longe maxima jacet, platearum defcrlptione, 
templorum frequentia, Sc pulcherrimis Mufa- 
rum facrariis five CoUegiis omnia nitent ; in 
quibus eruditiilimi viri magno numero abintur, 
omniumque bonarum artium fcientia & lin- 
guarum cognitio florent. 

De fundatione Academiae hujus oppidi & 
de Collegiis haec paucula annotare placuit ; 
Cantabrum Hifpanum, Anno ante Chriftum 
natum 373. Academiam banc primum inftitu- 
illc, & Sebcrtum Oriental ium Anglorum re- 
gem, Anno poft Chriftum 630. reftituiile 
perhibetur* Poftea Danicis procellis fubinde 
cverfa, diu neglecSla jacuit, donee fub Nor- 
mannico imperio omnia dilucefcere inceperint ; 
jam inde literarum diverforia, hofpitia, & 
nulx ftudiofis excitata fuerunt, fed nullis pof- 
iciTionibus dotata. 

Primum 



HENTZNER's Travels. 56 

joined by a Bridge ; whence it's modern 
name : Formerly it had the Saxon one of 
Grantbridge. Beyond this bridge is an 
antient and large Caftle, faid to be built by 
the Danes : On this fide, where far the 
greater part of the town ftands, all is fpl en- 
did ; the ftreets fine, the churches numerous, 
and thofe feats of the Mufes, the Colleges, 
moft beautiful ; in thefe a great number of 
learned men are fupported, and the ft'udies of 
all polite fciences and languages flouriih. 

I think proper to mention fome few things 
about the foundation of this Univerfity, 
and it's Colleges. Cantaber, a Spaniard, h 
thouo;ht to have firft inftituted this Acade- 
my, 375 Years before Chrifl: ; and Sebert 
king of the Eaft- Angles, to have reftored it, 
A. D. 630. It was aftewards fubverted in 
the confufion under the Danes, and lay long 
neglected ; till upon the Norman conque^i: 
every thing began to brighten up again : 
From that time, Inns and Halls for the con- 
venient lodging of Students began to be built, 
but without any revenues annexed to them. 

The 



57 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Primum vero Collegium, quod S. Petri do« 
mus vocatur, Hugo Balmam Epifcopus Eli- 
enfis. Anno ChrilH 1280, exftruxit 5c dota- 
vit, qucm fccuti Sc imitati Richardus Badew, 
ab Eliiabetha Clara Ultoniae Comitilla adju- 
tus, Anno Chrifli 1343, Auiam Clarenfem ; 
Maria de S. Paulo Penbrochias ComitifTa, 
Anno Chrifti 1343, Aulam Penbrochieniem ; 
Societas fratrum Corporis Chrifti 1344, Col- 
legium Corporis Chrifti ; quod & S. Benedicii 
dicitur ; Joannes Craudenfis, Anno Chrifti 
1354, Aulam Trinitatis ; Edmundus Gone- 
>ile. Anno Chrifti 1348, Sc Joannes Cajus 
Medirus noftro tempore Gonevilli & Caii 
Collegium ; Henricus VI. Rex A^ngliae, Col- 
legium Rcgium, Anno Chrifti 1441, cui Sa- 
cellum adjunxit, quod inter pulcherrima orbis 
sedificia fuo jure locum fibi vendicat, habens 
ad latus dextrum Bibliothecam infignem, in 
qua librum Pfalmorum in membranii fcriptum, 
quatuor fpithamas longum, & tres latum vi- 
dimus, Hifpanis in oppugnatione Gadium 
ereptum, 5z inter alia opima fpolia in Ang- 
liam deportaturn. Margaretha Andegavcnfis 

ejus 



HENTZNER's Travels. 57 

The firfl College, called Peter-Houfe, was 
built and endowed by Hugh Balfam, Bifhop 
of Ely, A. D. 1280; and in imitation of 
him, Richard Badew, with the afliftance of 
Elizabeth Burk Countefs of Clare and Ul- 
fter founded Clare-Hall, in 1326; Mary 
de St, Paul Countefs of Pembroke, Pem- 
broke-Hall, in 1343 ; the Monks of Corpus 
Chrifti, the College of the fame Name, 
though it has befides that of Bennet ; John 
Craudene, Trinity-Hall, 1354; Edmond 
Gonville in 1348, and John Caius, a Phyfi- 
cian in our times, Gonville and Caius Col- 
lege ; King Henry VI. King's College, in 
1441 5 adding to it a Chapel, that may juftly 
claim a place among the moft beautiful build- 
ings in the world ; on it's right fide is a fine 
Library, where we faw the Book of Pfalms 
in manufcript upon parchment, four fpans 
in length, and three broad, taken from the 
Spaniards at the fiege of Cadiz, and thence 
brought into England with other rich fpoils. 
Margaret of Arijou, his wife, founded 
Queen's College, 1448, at the fame time that 
R John 



5? HENTZNERI IriNERAHmM, 

ejus uxor. Anno Chriftj 1448, CollegluKi 
Reginale ; eodemque tempore Joannes Al-^ 
cockus, Ephfcopus Eljenfis, Collegium Jefu ; 
Robertus Woodlacke, Anno Chrifti- 1459, 
S. Catherinae Aulatn ; Margaretha Rkhmun- 
dia, Henrici VII. Anglic-e regis mater, 
Ghrifti and S. Joannis Collegia, circker An- 
num Chrifti 1 506 ; Thomas Avvdley, Ang- 
liae Cancellarius,. Collegium Magdalenae^ quod 
clariiUmus vir Dn. Chriftopher Wrey, fiim- 
ttius Angliae Juftitiarius, & redificiis & poflef- 
fionibus adauxit ; et potent iflimus rex Henrf- 
cus VIII. S. Trinkatis Collegium, Anna 
Sal utis 1546, religioni & feonrs Ikeris exaedi- 
ficavit, in cujus Sacello Withackeri Theologi 
epitaphium eft, aureis literis marmori infcrip- 
tum ; Collegium Emanuells, quod bonis ftu- 
diis honoratiflimus & prudentiffimus vir, Dn.. 
Gualterus Mildmajus Eques Auratus,, &regiac 
Majeftati ab intimis confiliis noftra aetate ex- 
ftruxit : Et Collegium Seidnei, quod novum. 
Seidncius Eques Auratus nunc molitur. 

Notandum hie, quod in Anglia quaedam. 
eft Se6la, quse Puritanorum vocatur : Hi 

ex 



HENTZNER's Travels. 5$ 

John Alcock, Bifhop of Ely, built Jefus 
College ; Robert Woodlarke, Catherine- 
Hall, 1456 ; Margaret of Richmond, mo- 
ther of king Henry VII. Chrift's and St. 
John's Colleges, about 1506 ; Thomas Aud- 
ley. Chancellor of England, Magdalen 
College, much encreafed fince both in build- 
ings and revenue by Chriftopher Wray, 
Lord Chief Juftice ; and the moft potent 
king Henry VIIL ere<Sed IVinity College 
for religion and polite letters ; in it's Chapel 
is the tomb of Dr. Whitacre, w^ith an infcrip- 
tion in gold letters upon marble; Emanuel 
College built in our own times by the moft 
honourable and prudent Sir Walter Mild- 
may, one of her Majefty's Privy Council : 
And laftly, Sidney College, now firft build- 
ing by the executors of the Lady * Frances 
Sidney Countefs of Suflex. 

We muft note here, that there is a certain 
Sc6l in England, called Puritans : Thefe, 

* She was the Daughter^ Stjier and Aunt^ 
of thofe eminent Knights^ Sir William^ Sir 
Henry ^ and Sir Philip Sidney. 

R 2 according 



59 HENTZNERI Itinf.rarium. 

ex opinione Ecclefiae Genevenfis omnes fefc 
caeremonias ab antiquis ufurpatas, organa 
item & epitaphia e templis ejiciunt, difparita- 
tem officlorum inter ecclefiafticos, ut funt 
Epifcopatus, Abbatiae, isfc, tollunt, & ejuf- 
cemodi dignitates omnino refpuunt, hoc no- 
mine primum appellati a Jefuita Sandcs. Non 
vivunt ifti feorfum, fed reliquis hinc inde in 
CoHegiis fuht immifti. 

BoTTON, pagus, 

Amtheil, vicus ; hic infinitam iDultitu- 
dinem cuniculorum vidimus, qui loco Icporum 
habentur, & faporis funt optimi. 

Obern, Leitten, Elsberg, & Wet- 
LEFF, vicos tranfivimus. 

OxoNiUM, vulgo OxENFORD, Athcnae 
Anglicje nobilifTimae, literarum & fapicntias 
clarifnma officina, unde religio, humanitas, 
& doclrina in omnes regni partes uberrimc 
diftribuuntur : Oppidum egrcgium tSc nitidum 

eft. 



HENTZNER's Travels. 59 

according to the dodlrine of the Church of 
Geneva, rejecl all ceremonies antiently held, 
and admit of neither organs nor tom.bs in 
their places of worfliip, and entirely abhor all 
difference in rank among churchmen, fuch 
as Bifhops, Deans, ^c. they were firft 
named Puritans by the Jefuit Sandys. They 
do not live feperate, but mix with thofe of 
the Church of England in the Colleges. 

Pot TON, a village. 

Ampthill, a town ; here we faw im- 
menfe numbers of rabbits, which are rec- 
koned as good as hares, and are very well 
taftcd. 

We pafled through the towns of Woburn, 
Leighton, Ailesbury, and Wheatley^ 

OxoNiUM, Oxford, the famed Athens 
of England ; that glorious feminary of learn- 
ing and wifdom, whence religion, politenefs, 
and letters, are abundantly difperfed into all 
parts of the kingdom : The town is remark- 
ably fine, whether you confider the elegance 

of 



to HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

eft five privatorum asdificiorum elegantiam, 
five publicorum dignitatem, five fitus falubri- 
tatem & amoenitatem fpe61:es ; planitiem enim 
ita obvallant nemorofi colics, ut hinc peftilen- 
ti Auftro, illinc tempeftuoro Zephyro exclufo, 
tantum ferenantem Eurum & Aquilonem cor- 
ruptionis vindicem admittant, unde ab hoc 
fitu Bellositum quondam diftum fuifle 
produnt nonnulli. Alluunt hoc oppidum 
duo fluvii Chenvel, & Ifis, vulgo Oufe, qui 
licet in unum alveum aquas confocient, Ids 
tamen folidus & concitatior in Auftrum fertur, 
^ nomen retinet, donee fluvium Tamam 
quern diu qua^fierat inveniat, & ad vicum 
WallengdorfF in fe recipiat, unde poftea 
fluviorum Britannicorum regnator compo- 
fito vocabulo Thamefis appellatur, de quo 
non immerito dicere liceat, eum & ferere Bri- 
tanniam & rigare, quod de Euphrate in oriente 
dixcrunt veteres. 

Ca?terum Collegia in hac celebri univerfi- 
tatc haec funt : 

Henrico 



HENTZNER's Travels. 6o 

of it's private buildings, the magnificence of 
it's public ones, or the beauty and v/holefome- 
nefs of it's fituation ; w^hich is on a plain, 
encompafled in fuch a manner with hills 
fhaded v^^ith wood, as to be fheltered on the 
one hand from the fickly South, and on the 
other from the bluftering Weft, but 'open to 
the Eaft that blows ferene weather, and to 
the North the preventer of corruption ; from 
which in the opinion of fome it formerly 
obtained the appellation of Bellositum. 
This town is watered by two rivers, the 
Cherwell, and the Ifis, vulgarly called the 
Oufe ; and though thefe ftreams join in the 
fame channel, yet the Ifis runs more entire, 
and with more rapidity towards the Souths 
retaining it's name, till it meets the Thame, 
which it feems long to have fought, at Wal- 
lingford, thence called by the compound name 
of Thames, it flows the prince of all Britifh 
rivers ; of whom we may juftly fay, as the 
antients did of the Euphrates, That it both- 
fows and waters England. 

The Colleges in this famous Univcrfity arc 
as follov/s ; In. 



6i HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Henrico III. Anglorum rege adhuc reg- 
nante Gualterus Merton Epifcopus Roffenfis 
Gollegium quod in agro Surrienfi pofuerat An- 
no Chrifti 1274 ; Oxonium tranftulit, locu- 
pletavit, & Mertonenfe Collegium dixit ; 
ftatimque Gulielmus Archidiaconus Dunel- 
menfis, opus illud Alfredi, quod Univerfitatis 
nunc vocant Collegium, novis operlbus ref- 
tauravit ; Edvvardi I. Angliae rege regnante, 
Joannes Belliolus rex Scotiae, vel ut alii vo- 
lunt ejus parentes, Belliolenfe Collegium fun- 
darunt; fub Edvvardo TI. Anglorum rege 
Gualterus Stepletonus Epifcopus Exonienfis, 
Exonienfe Collegium, Aulamque Cervinam ; 
& ipfe Rex hunc imitatus. Collegium Re- 
gium, vulgo Orial, & Aulam S. Marian po- 
f'uit ; poftea Philippa regina, Edvvardi III, 
Angliae regis uxor, Collegium Reginse, five 
Reginale, ut vocant ; et Simon Iflep, Archi- 
Epifcopus Cantuarienfis, Cantuarienfe Colle- 
gium extruxit ; Gulielmus Wiccamus Epif- 
copus Wintonienfis Collegium magnificum, 
quod Novum dicitur, excitavit ; Collegium 
Marine Magdalenac Gulielmus Wainflcttus 

Epifcopus 



HENTZNER's Travels. 6i 



In the reign of Henry III. Walter Merton 
Bifhop of Rochefter removed the College 
he had founded in Surry, 1274, to Oxford, 
enriched it, and named it Merton College ; 
iind foon after William Arch-deacon of Dur^ 
ham reftored v\^ith additions that building of 
Alfred's, now called Univerfity College ; in 
the reign of Edward I. John Baliol king of 
Scotland, or as fome will have it his Parents, 
founded Baliol College ; in the reign of Ed- 
ward 11. Walter Stapleton Bifhop of Exeter 
founded Exeter College, and Hart-hall ; and 
in imitation of him, the King, King's Col- 
lege, commonly called Oriel, and St. Mary's 
Hall 5 next Philippa, wife of Edward III. 
built Queen's College ; and Simon Iflip 
Arch-bifhop of Canterbury', Canterbury 
College ; William Wickham Bifhop of 
Winchefter raifed that magnificent Struc- 
ture called New College ; Magdalen College 
was built by William Wainfiet Bifhop of 
S Winchefter, 



62 HENTZNERI Itinerarium, 

Epifcopus Wintonlenfis erexit, quod opere 
eximkim, fitu percommodum, & ambulacris 
admodum amcenum eft ; eodemque tempore 
Humfredus Dux Gloceftriae bonarum Ikera- 
rum admirator rrraxrmus, fcholam Theologi- 
carti magnifice extruxit, & in ejus iuperiorf 
parte Bibllothecam inftituit, centumque viginti 
novem feleiSfciilimis libris, quos magnis impen- 
fis ex Italia comparavit, exornavit, fed hos 
quorundam privata avaritia publico ufui jam- 
pridem invldit : Collegium Lincolnienfe ;. Col- 
legium omnium animarum ; Collegium D. 
Bernhardi ; Collegium -^nei Nafi a Gulrelmo 
Smith Epifcopo Lincotnienfi, regnante Flenri- 
co VII. Anglorum rege, conditum, Sc ab 
Alexandre Novvello S. Pauli Londini Decano 
proventibus au»5lum ; fupra portam hujus Col- 
legii ^neus Nafus eft affixus ; Collegium 
'Corporis Chrifti a Richardo Fox Epifcopo 
Wintonrenfi aedificatum, fub cujus effigie in 
Sacello Collegii hi legunturverficuli : 

Clarus Wintoniae Praeful cognomine Foxus, 
Qiii prius hoc olini nobile ftruxit opus. 

Talis erat forma, talis dum vixit ami6l:u, 
Qualcm fpedanti picla tabella refert. 



HENTZNER's Travels. 62 

Winchefter, a noble edifice, finely fituated, 
and delightful for it's walks : At the fame 
time Humphrey Duke of Gloucefter, that 
great encourager of Learning, built the Di- 
vinity School very fplcndidly, and over it a 
Uribrary, to which he gave an hundred and 
twenty-nine very choice books, purchafed at 
a great price from Italy, but the public has 
long fince been robbed of the ufe of them 
by the avarice of particulars : Lincoln Col- 
lege ; All-Souls College ; St. Bernard's Col- 
lege; Brazen-Nofe College, founded by 
William Smith, Bifhop of Lincoln, in the 
reign of Henry VIL it's revenues were aug-^ 
mented by Alexander Nowell, Dean of St, 
Paul's, London ; upon the gate of this Coir 
lege is fixed a Nofe of brafs: Corpus Chrifti 
College built by Richard Fox Bifhop of 
Winchefler, under his picSure in the College 
Chapel are lines importing that it is the exadj: 
reprcfentation of his perfon and drefs^ 



S? Chrifl's 



63 HENTZNERI Itinerarium, 

Collegium QirifH Thomas Wolfaeus, 
Cardinalis Eboracenfis, ubi Fridefwidae Mo- 
nafterium erat, omnium ampliffimum & 
elegantiflimum inchoavit, quod Henricus 
VIII. Angliae rex, adiun(So Cantuarienfi 
Collegio, magnis redditibus ditavit, Sc ^dem 
Chrifli dixit : PotentiiTimufque item princeps 
pecuni^ e fuo serario dcpromta, ad oppidi 
dignitatem Epifcopum & ad Academiae oraa- 
mentum publicos Profcflbrey iiiftituit. 

Collegium Jefa ab Hugone Prlfo, Legum 
Do^lOI'c, exaedificatum. 

Maria etiam Rcgina Publicas Scholas belle 
a fundamentis aedificavit, et variis infcriptioni- 
bus decoravit. 

Ha61-enus de Collegiis & Aulis, quae ele- 
ganti ftru6tura, opimis redditibus, & inftruc- 
tis Bibliothecis ita florent, ut reliquas or bis 
Chriftiani Academias fuperent omnes. Nunc 
^e. perfonis Academicii) ibi viveiitibus pauca 

lubjicienda. 

Studfofi 



HENTZNER's Travels. 63 

Chrift's Church, the largeft and moft 
elegant of them all, was begun on the ground 
of St. Fridefwide's Monaftery by Thomas 
Wolfey Cardinal of York ; to which Henry 
VIII. joined Canterbury College, fettled 
great revenues upon it, and named it Ch rift's 
Church : The fame great Prince, out of his 
own treafury, to the dignity of the town, 
and ornament of the univerfity, made the 
one a Bifhoprick, and inftituted Profeflbr- 
fliips inthe other, 

Jefus College, built by Hugh Price Doc- 
tor of Laws. 

That fine edifice, The Public Schools, 
was entirely raifed by Queen Mary, and 
adorned with various infcriptions. 

Thus far of the Colleges and Halls, which 
for the beauty of their buildings, their rich 
endowments, and copious Libraries, excel! 
all the Academies in the Chriftian world. 
We fliall add a little of the Academies them- 
felves, and thofe that inhabit them. 

Thefe 



64 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Stucnofi vitam fere Monaflic^m clegunt ; 
ficut enim in Monafteriis olim Monachi nul- 
Jis aliis rebus erant intenti 5c occupati, quam 
lit ftdtis horis, precibus ad Deum fufis, re- 
llquum tempus bonis artibiis, & ftudiis ho- 
neftis impenderent, ita & hos facere oportet. 
Dividuntur porro in tres Menlas : Ad pri- 
inam, quae Sociorum Menfa dicitur, admit- 
tuntur Comites, Barones, Nobiles, Do6tores 
.& Magiilri, kd horum pauciffimi, latiufque 
& libcralius quam reliqui tra<5lantur 5 Secun- 
da Menfa eft Magiftrorum, Baccalaureorum, 
nobilium quoque & Civium honoratiorum ; 
Tertia Plebeiorum, & inferioris conditionis 
hominum. Dum reliqui prandent vcl coenant, 
quod fit in coenaculo fatis amplo, ubi omnes 
iimul congregantur, quidam ex ftudiofis in 
facris Bibllis legit, quae pulpito in centro fere 
cosnaculi collocato funt jmpofita, atque hoc 
ledlurre onus fubire folent ftudiofi omncs vici- 
"bus alternis ; Gratiis, fumto prandio, vel 
ccena abfoluta, aftis, quilibet in fuum Mu- 
feum vel cubiculum fe confert, aut in hortos 
^djunftos exfpatiatur, quos ad omnia Colle- 
' gia 



HENTZNER's Travels. 64. 

Thefe Students lead a life almoft Monaflic ; 
for as the Monks had nothing in the world 
to do, but when they had faid their prayers 
at ftated hours, to employ themfelves in in- 
ftru6liv^e ftudies, no more have thefe. They 
are divided into three Tables : The firft is 
called the Fellows Table, to which are ad- 
mitted Earls, Barons, Gentlemen, Doftors, 
and Maftcrs of Arts, but very few of the 
latter ; this is more plentifully and expenfive- 
ly ferved than the others : The Second is for 
Mafters of Arts, Bachelors, fome Gentle- 
men, and eminent Citizens : The Third for 
people of low condition. While the reft are 
at dinner or fupper in a great Hall, where 
they are all aflembled, one of the Students 
reads aloud the Bible, w^hich is placed on a 
defk in the middle of the Hall, and this 
office every one of them takes upon himfelf 
in his turn ; as foon as Grace is faid after 
each meal, every one is at liberty, either to 
retire to his own chambers, or to walk m 
the College garden, there being none that 



r€5 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

gia habent amceniifimos. Veftitus cum Je- 
ruitariim ferme congruit, etenim togis fuiit 
induti longis ad talos ufque demiilis, aliquan- 
do pellibus fufFultis, pileos gerunt quadran- 
gulares ; Dodores vero, Maglftri, & illi, 
qui Praeceptorum aut Profefforum munere 
funguntur, peculiaribus utuntur togis, ut a 
reliquis dignofcantur : Ad Bibliothecam irt 
unoquoque Collegio quilibet Studiolus pro- 
veclioris aetatis habet clavem. 

Confpiciuntur in angulo quodam oppidi ru- 
dera arcis fatis ampla^, fed penitus dirut^. 
In coena fuimus excepti mufica excellentif- 
fima, variis & diverfis ex inftrumentis con- 
cinnata. 

Poflridie exfpatiati fumus ad Arcem Regiam 
WooDSTOCKE, ubi Ethelredus Anglia* rex 
olim Ordinum conventum habuit & leo-es 

o 

tulit. Eft haec arx magnificentiae plena, ab 
Henrico I. Angliae rege conftrucla ; qui etiam 
vivarium ampliilimum, faxeo muro cindlum, 
adjunxit, quod primum in Anglia vivarium 

fuifle 



HENTZNER's Travels. 6j 

has not a delightful one< Their habit is al- 
moft the fame as that of the Jefuits, their 
gowns reaching down to their ancles, fome- 
times lined v/ith furr; they wear fquare caps ; 
the Doftors, Mafters of Arts, and ProfefTors, 
have another kind of gown that diflinguiflies 
them : Every Student of any confiderable 
ftanding has a key to the College Library, 
for no College is without one. 



In an out part of the town are the remains 
of a pretty large fortification, but quite in 
ruins. We were entertained at fupper with 
an excellent concert, compofed of variety of 
inflruments. 



The next day we went as far as the Royal 
Palace of Woodstock, where king Ethel- 
red formerly held a Parliament, and enacted 
certain Laws. This palace abounding in 
magnificence was built by Henry L to which 
he joined a very large park, enclofed with a 
T wall. 



66 HENTZNERI IriNERARitrM. 

fuffle fcribJt Joannes Roflus. In hac ipfa arce 
regrna Anglrae Elifabetha, quae nunc rerum po- 
titur^ antequam Turn Londinenfi includere- 
tur, a Maria, forore captiva fuit detenta, quae 
cum in maximo vit^e verfaretur difcrimlne, 
carbone rithmos quofdam Anglicos a fe com- 
pofttos feneftrse ligneas propria manu infcrip- 
fit, quorum fenfus in fubfequentibus verficu- 
lis utcunque videtur expreflus : 

O Fort UNA ! tuum jemper 'variahile numen 
Implevit curis animum mordacihus agrum ; 
Career hie eji tejlh^ qui gaud'ia eunSia removit'^^ 
Sap} tetris miferos tenfajii fohere vinells : 
Et fervare tihi innocuos jujiijjima cur a. 
Sed tamen i?ide ttto fallaci fidere vento 
Nulli eonfultum puto ; nam mutarrs in horas ; 
TTandem fova Fatery qm fervantijjimm aquiy 
Et fcelerumvindex es jiifiusj tela ret imde 
In im niijfay mcis inimieis lance repende 
Mqud 'y fac videam prcpriis cpntraria vctis, 

ELISABETHA Captiva. 

A, D. M.D.LV, 

Non; 



HENTZNER's Travels. . 66, 

wall, according to John Rofle the firft park 
in England, In this very palace the prefent 
reigning queen Elizabeth, before fhe vi^as 
confined to the Tower, was kept prifoner 
by her fifter Mary; while flie was detain- 
ed here in the utmoft peril of her life, fhe 
wrote with a piece of charcoal the follow- 
ing verfes, compofed by herfelf, upon a win- 
dow-fhutter : 

O Fortune ! how thy refllefs waverhig Jlate 

Hath fraught with cares my troubled wit ! 
JVitnefs this prefeiit prifon whither Fate 

Hath horn incy and the joys I quit. 
Thou caufedeji the guilty to be loofed 
From bandsy wherewith are innocents inclofed\ 
Caujing the guiltlefs to bejirait referved^ 
And freeing thofe that death had well defer ved : 
But by her envy can be nothing wrought^ 
So God fend to my foes all they have thought, 

ELIZABETH Prisgnter. 

/f. D. U,D.LV. 



T 2 Not 



6; HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Non procul ab hac arce videntur rudera 
nedium, cum fonte fcaturientis aquae puriflimo, 
Rolamundae ClifFordlae, quam Henricus II. 
rex Anglire propter eximiam & liberalem for- 
mam adeo deperiit, ut ejus pulchritudo omnes 
alias ex ipfius animo deleret mulleres ; quae 
tandem enecata fuIlTe dicltur veneno a regis 
uxore. Tumuli reliquiae ex lapide, charac- 
teribus pene corruptis, (unt hse : 

****** * * * * * * * Adorent 
Utque tibi detur requies Roiamunda precamur. 

Monachus quidam hoc rilhmicum ci fecit 
epitaphium : 

Hie jacet in tumbdRofa mundi non Rofamunda, 
Non redolet fed olct, quae redolcre folet. 

Reverfi hinc Oxonium, a prandio iter nof- 
trum ulterius fumus profecuti, & New- 
helm, Arcem Regiam, in qua pauperes ex 
regia liberalitate fuflentantur, tranfivimus. 

NiTTKLBETT, pagUS. 

Henley, 



HENTZNER's Travels. 67 

Not far from this palace are to be {gcti 
near a fprlrig of the brighteft water the 
ruins of the habitation of Rofamond ClifFord, 
whofe exqulfite beauty fo entirely captivated 
the heart of kino; Henrv II. that he loft the 
thought of all other women ; fhe is faid 
to have been poifoned at laft by the Queen. 
All that remains of her tomb of ftone, the 
letters of which are almoft worn out, is the 
line on the oppofite page. * * * * 

The rhiming epitaph, following likev/ife 
on the oppofite fide, was probably the per- 
formance of fome monk. 

Returning from hence to Oxford, after 
dinner we proceeded on our journev, and 
paffcd through Ewhelme, a Royal Palace, 
in which fome alms-people are fupported by 
an allowance from the crown. 

Nettlebed, a village. 

We 



68 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Henley, oppidulum tranfivimus ; hie 
colles Chilternici per pet uo dorfo in Aquilo- 
nem procurrunt, & Oxonienfem agrum a 
Buchinghamienfi difterminant. 

Madenhood, vicum tranfivimus. 

ViNDESORiUM, vulgo ViNsoRE, Regium 
in Anglia Caflrum, Arturi regis tempore pri^ 
ma fundatione conftruftum putatur, ac de- 
inde ab Edvvardo TIL multis aedificiis adauc- 
tum, fitu gaudet peramoeno, ut certe amoenio- 
rem fedes regia vix habere poffit. Clemen- 
ter enimex aedito colle jueundiffimo in agrum 
planum atque compafcuum fruitur confpeiSu ; 
a fronte vallem defpeclat longe lateque pro- 
currentem, arvis • diftin6lam, pratis viridan- 
tcm, nemoribus hinc inde veftitam, & placid 
difiimo Thamefi irriguam ; a tergo, colles 
paflim afTurgunt, nee afperi nee praealti, 
faltibus coronati, & venationi a Natura ipfa 
quafi dicati. 

Hac 



HENTZNER^s Travels. 68 

We went through the little town of Hen- 
ley j from hence the Chiltern hills bear 
North in a continued ridge, and divide the 
counties of Oxford and Buckingham, 

We pafied Maidenhead. 

Windsor, a Royal Caftle, fuppofed to 
have been begun by king Arthur, it's buildings 
much encreafed by Edward III. The fitua- 
tion is entirely worthy of being a royal re- 
fidence, a more beautiful being fcarce to be 
found : For from the brow of a gentle rifing 
it enjoys the profpecl of an even and green 
country j it's front commands a valley ex- 
tended every way, and chequered with arable 
lands and pafturage, cloathed up and down 
with groves, and watered by that gentleft 
of rivers the Thames; behind rife feveral 
hills, but neither fteep, nor very high, crown- 
ed with woods, and feeming defigned by 
Nature herfelf for the purpofe of hunting. 

The 



69 HENTZNERI Itij^erarium. 



Hac loci amoenltate pelle6ll reges faepiilime 
hue fecedunt ; et hie ad Galliam vincendani 
liatus eft Edvvardus III. Angliae rex potentifli- 
mus, qui hoc Caftrum quafi urbis aemulum, 
foilis & propugnaculis ex quadrato faxo muni- 
tifHmum de integro conftruxit, ftatimque de- 
bellato Gallo & Scoto^ Joannem regem Gal- 
liae, & Davidem Scotise in hoc captivos 
uno eodemque tempore detinuit. Porro Caf- 
trum hoc praeter regiam fedem, & magnifica 
regum fepulchra, Garretteriorum fodah'um 
caeremonid celeberrimum eft -, haec autem 
Equeftris focietas ab Edvvardo III. qui a 
Joanne Gallorum rege capto fpeciofiflime 
triumphavit, eft inftituta. Sunt vero Garet- 
terii Equites bellied virtute vetuftatequc na^ 
talium ledifTimi duces, qui folemni facramen^^ 
to adadli, mutuse perpetuaeque amieiti^, fe 
devovent, nee ad tuendum collegii decus no- 
bili confpiratione quodvis periculum ad ire, nee 
fubire mortem recufant; Garetterii autem 
Sodales ob id appellantur, quod finiftri cruris 
furam fibulato baltheolo, vel caeruled perif- 

celide. 



HENTZKTER's Travels. 6g 

The kings of England, invited by the deli- 
cioufnefs of the place, very often retire hither ; 
and here was iDorn the conqueror of France, 
the glorious king Edward III. who built the 
Caftle new from the ground, and throughly 
fortified it with trenches, and towers of fquare 
ftone, and having foon after fubdued in 
battle John king of France, and David king 
of Scotland, he detained them both prifoners 
here at the fame time. This Caftle bcfides 
being the royal palace, and having fome 
rtiagnificent tombs of the kings of England, 
fs famous for the ceremonies belonging to 
the Knights of the Garter ; this Order was 
inftituted by Edward III. the fame who tri- 
umphed fo illuftrioufly over John king of 
France. The Knights of the Garter are 
ftriiSUy chofen for their military virtues, and 
antiquity of family: They are bound by 
folemn oath and vow to mutual and perpe- 
tual friendfhip among themfelves, and to the 
not avoiding any danger whatever, or even 
death itfelf, to fupport by their joint endea- 
vours the honour of the Society : They are 
U ftiled. 



70 HENTZNERI Itinerarium, 

celide, unde & Equcftris Perlfcelidls Ordo 
dicitur, aureis litteris Gallice infcripta ; 

HONI SOIT qui MAL II PENSE, hoc eft, 
Ignomima afficiatur^ qui male cogitat : Sinif- 
tram tibiain fubftringunt, in memoriam cali- 
gariae fafciolae, quae iiluftri Foeminae, ab Ed- 
vvardo flagranter adamatae, dum ea choream 
faltaret, foluto forte nodo deciderat, eamque 
rex i[>fe repente fuftulerat, ut in honorem 
mulierls, non amatoria vanitate, fed gravi & 
maxime honefta ratione, infignium procerum 
tibiis dicaretur. Ejus autem Collegii caere- 
monia Vindeforii quotannis, ftato die D» 
Georgio Cappadoci Equitum tutelari dedi- 
cate, praefidente Rege, celebratur, mofque 
eft, ut Sodales galeam & fcutum, cumgen- 
tilitiis infignibus, confpicuo templi loco, fuf- 
pendant, 

Tres- prsecipuas areas latas & amplas Caf- 
trum hoc Vindiforium, non fine grata fpec- 
tantium voluptate oftentat : Quarum priori 
nitidiHimis ex candido faxo, fuperne planis, 
plumboque contedlis sedifieiis cinda, Garet- 

teriis 



' HENTZNER's Travels. 70 

ffiled, Companions of the Garter, from their 
wearing below the left knee a purple garter, 
infcribed in letters of gold, with HoNi soiT 
QUI MAX Y PENSE, i, e. Evil to hm that 
Evil thinks : This they wear upon the left leg, 
in memory of one which happening to un- 
tie, was let fall by a great Lady, pafTionately 
beloved by Edward, while fhe was dancing, 
and was immediately fnatched up by the king ; 
who to do honour to the lady, not out of any 
trifling galantry, but with a moft ferious and 
honourable purpofe, dedicated it to the 
legs of the moft diftinguifhed nobility. The 
ceremonies of this Society are celebrated 
every year at Windfor on St. George's day, 
the tutelar Saint of the Order, the King 
prefiding ; and the cuftom is, that the 
Knights Companions fhould hang up their 
helmet and iheild, with their arms blazoned 
on it, in fome confpicuous part of the Church. 

There are three principal and very large 

courts in Windfor Caftle, which give great 

pleafure to the beholders : The firft is en- 

clofed with moft elegant buildings of white 

U 2 ftone 



71 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

teriis Equltibus hofpitia praebet ; habetquc 
infularem in medio domum, praecelfa Turri 
conrpicuam, quam Gubernator Praefedlufque 
Caftri inhabjtat ; in ea publica eft culina, 
fuppelle6tili rcburquc culinariis atque domef- 
ticis iiiftrufta. Si fpaciofurn triclinium, in quo 
Equites communi quotidie menfa utuntur. 
Ad hanc autem Garetteriam focietatem Angliae 
rex & Gubernator idoneas pro voluntate 
fua perfonas dcligit ; quas nobili ex parentela 
tertio propinqujtati? gradu efTc oportet, qui- 
que ob grav^iorem aetatem, reique famiiiaris 
anguiHas, precibus Deo ofFcrendis, quam 
bellicis tumultibus magii^ habentvir idonei ; 
fingulis penfionis annuae xviii. librae denarii 
V. aflignantur, & veftis 5 hujus autem tarn 
magnificae fundationis praecipuum inftitutum 
eft, ut pro incolurpitate regis, & pro felici ad- 
miniftratione regni, quotidianas ad Deum 
preccs fundant; hinc rebus divinis vacant, & 
bis quotidie ad Sacellum, orationis gratia con- 
yeniunt : Haec ctiam area ad laevam magni- 
fied ftru{Sl:ura exornatur, Sacello pcraugufto 
ex XXIV, paflu3 longo, & xvi. lato ; in quo 
pro Equitum numero xviii. Subfellja a 

temporibus 



HENTZNER's Travels. 71 

ftonc, flat roofed, and covered with lead ; 
here the Knights of the Garter are lodged ; 
in the middle is a detached houfe, remark- 
able for its high tower, which the governor 
inhabits. In this is the. public kitchen, well 
furniflied with proper utenfils, befides a fpa- 
cious dining-room, where all the poor Knights 
cat at the fame table, for into this fociety of 
the Garter, the King and Sovereign elects, 
at his own choice, certain perfons who muft 
be gentlemen of three defcents, and fuch as 
for their age and the ftraitnefs of their for- 
tunes, are fitter for faying their prayers, than 
for the fervice of war y to each of them is 
afligned a penfion of eighteen pounds per. 
annum and cloaths ; the cheif inflitution of 
fo magnificent a foundation is, that they 
fhould fay their daily prayers to God for the 
King's fafety, and the happy adminiftration 
of the Kingdom, to which purpofe they at- 
tend the fervice, meeting twice every day at 
Chapel. The left fide of this court is orna- 
mented by a rriofl- magnificent Chapel of 
one hundred and thirty-four paces in length, 
and' fixteen in breadth 5 in this are eighteen 

feats 



72 HENTZNERI Itinerarwm. 

temporibus Edvvardi III. parata habentur. 
Eftque asdicula hrec facra magiiificis regum 
monumentis decorata Edvvardi IV. Hen- 
rici VI. Sc VIII. ejufque conjugis reginae 
Jcannae. Sacellum hoc regia liberalitatc do- 
tatum 2000 libras annuatim habet, qui qui- 
dem proventus Edvvardi III. & Hcnrici VII. 
regum rhuhificentia plurimum funt adaucSli. 
Caeterum in banc Perifcelidis ordinis focieta- 
tem potentiflimi quique orbis Chriftiani 
Principes cooptari inftar maximi honoris 
duxerunt, & jam a prima inftitutione, in 
hunc ordinem, qui e xxvi. Equitibus con- 
ftat, reges adfcripti fuerunt plus minus xx. 
prater Anglian reges, qui ejufdem Prefides 
habentur, ut Duces & alii maximi nominis 
taceantur plurimi. 

In Choro Sacelli interiore videntur infig- 
nia, gladii & vexilla xvi. fufpenfa, inter quae 
funt Caroli V. & Rudolphi II. Imperatorum ; 
Philippi Hifpaniarum ; Henrici III. Galli- 
arum ; & Friderici 11. Daniae regum, iffc, 
Cafimiri Palatini Comitis ad Rhenum, iffc. 
aliprumque orbis Chriftiani Principum, qui 

in 



HENTZNER's Travels. 72 

feats fitted up In the time of Edward III. 
for an equal number of Knights : This ve- 
nerable buildino; is decorated with the noble 
monuments of Edward IV. Henry VI. and 
VIIL and of his wife queen Jane. It re- 
ceives from royal liberality the annual income 
of two thoufand pounds, and that ftill much 
encreafed by, the munificence of Edward III. 
and Henry VII. The greateft Princes in 
Chriftendom have taken it for the higheft 
honour to be admitted into the Order of the 
Garter; and fince it's firft inftitution about 
twenty Kings, befides thofe of England, 
who are the Sovereigns of it, not to mention 
Dukes and perfons of the greateft figure, have 
been of it. It confifts of twenty-fix Corn-* 
panions. 

In the inward Choir of the Chapel are 
hung up fixteen coats of arms, fwords and 
banners, among which, are thofe of Charles 
V. and Rodolphus II. Emperors ; of Philip 
of Spain ; Henry III. of France ; Frederic 
11. of Denmark, i^c, of Cafimir CoUnt 
Palatine of the Rhine ; and other Chriftian 
Princes, who have been chofen into this Order, 

In 



;j HENTZNERI Itinerarii/m. 
in hunc Perifcclidis Ordiriem funt coop- 



tati. 



In Choro pofteriore vel appendice hujus 
Sacelli monftrabantur nobis praeparamenta 
quasdam ad fepulchrum magnificentifTimum 
Cardinalis Wolfaei poftea capite plexi ; funt in 
ambitu viii. magnae column^e ex orichalco ; 
proptus ad tumulum iv. in formam candela- 
brorum fa6lae ; tumulus ipfe ex marmore 
candido & nigro, iffc. quae omnia, uti fama 
eft, in fepulturam reginae Elifabethae aflervan- 
tur, fumtus in banc rem jam fa6li aeilimantur 
ultra 60,000 auri libras. Confpicitur de- 
inde in Sacello toga equeftris Edwardi IIL 
item epitapbium Edwardi Finii Lincolniae 
Comitis, Clintoniae & Saiae Baronis, inclyti 
Perifcelidis Ordinis militis & fummi quondam 
Admiralis. 



Altera cditiore in loco Arcis Windeforii 
Area validiflimis cin6la murris, turri & mag- 
nificis aedificiis clara, vetus quondam Caftrum 

fuit. 



HENTZNER's Travels. 73 

In the back Choir, or additional Chapel, 
are fhewn preparations made by Cardinal 
Wolfey, who was afterw^ards * capitally 
punifhcd, for his own tomb ; confiding of 
eight large brazen columns placed round it, 
arid nearer the tomb four others in the (hape 
of candlefticks, the tomb itfelf is of white 
and black marble ; all which are referveJ 
according to report for the funeral of queen 
Elizabeth, the expences already made for that 
purpofe are eftimated at upwards of 60,000 /. 
In the fame Chapel is the furcoat f of Ed- 
ward IIL and the tomb of Edward Fines Earl 
of Lincoln, Baron Clinton and Say, Knight 
of the moft noble Order of the Garter, and 
formerly Lord High Admiral of England. 

* This was a Jlrange blunder to be made fa 
near the timej about fo remarkable a perfon^ un-^ 
lefs he concluded that whoever dlfpleafed Hemy 
VIIL was of courfe put to death, 

\ This is a mifiake ; it was the furcoat of Ed- 
ward IV* enriched with rubies^ and was pre^ 
Jerved hen till the civil war. 

X The 



74 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

fuitj de quo hunc In modum veterum an- 
nales : Anno Domini 1359, rex Edvvardus 
incepit novum aedificium in Caftello de Win- 
defore, ubi natus fuerat, ob quam caufam 
ilium locum amplioribus aedificiis & fplendi- 
dioribus decorare prse caeteris procuravit. In 
hac Caftri regione Joannes Galliae rex, & 
David rex Scotlae^ de quibus uno eodemque 
tempore Edvvardus III. magnifice triumph- 
avit, tenebantur captivi ; quorum confilio, 
ob jucundam loci amoenitatem, & fumtibus 
ob fui redemptionem hoc Caftrum in earn 
magnificentiam paulatim excrevit, ut non- 
arx, fed juftae magnitudinis & humanis prae- 
fidiis inexpugnabile oppidum videatur. Et 
haec quidem Caftri regio, folius Scotias regis^ 
unica excepta Turri, fumtibus conftrufta eft^ 
quam quia Wincheftorlae Epifcopus Soda- 
litii equeftris Praelatus condldit, Wirichef- 
trise Turrim appellitant. Haec gradus ha- 
bet c. ea oplficum induftria perfecStos, ut 
facilem equis afcenfum praebeant ; cl. paf* 
•fus in ambitu continet. In ei omne armo^ 

rum 



HENTZNER's Travels, 74 

The fecond Court of Windfor Caftle 
ftands upon higher ground, and is enclofed 
with walls of great ftrength, and beautified 
with fine buildings, and a Tower ; it was an 
antient Caftle, of which old annals fpeak in 
,thjs manner; King Edward, A. D. 1359, 
began a new building in that part of the 
Caftle of Windfor where he was born, for 
which reafon he took care it fhould be de- 
corated with larger and finer edifices than the 
reft ; in this part were kept prifoners John 
king of France, and David king of Scots, 
over whom Edward triumphed at one and th^ 
fame time : It was by their advice, ftruc|c 
with the advantage of it's fituation, an^ 
with the fums paid for their ranfom, that 
by degrees this Caftle ftretched tp fuch mag- 
nificence, as to appear np longer a fortrefs, 
but a town of proper extent, and inexpugna- 
ble to any human force ; this particular part 
of the Caftle was built at the fole expence of 
the king of Scotland, except one Tow^r^ 
which from it's having been erefted by the 
Bifliop of Winchefter, Prelate of the Order, 
X 2 is 



75 HENTZNERI iTiKr.RARiuM. 

rum genus, ad arcis defenfionem neceflarium, 
affervatur. 



Tertia demum celcbernmi Windeforii 
Caflri area longe amplIiTima, captlvi Gallo- 
rum regis impenrarum fumtiblus adificata, 
ut editlore fitu, ita elegahtia atque nitore 
priores longe fuperat ; ea cxlviii. paffuum 
longitudine, & xcvii. pafUbus In latum 
protenditur ; in medio fontem limpidifTmiae 
aqucT?, per occultos terrae ineatu?, quatuor 
milliarium fpatio, maximis fumtibus deduc- 
tum, oftcntatj fumtuofiflimis infiiper a^difi- 
ciis claula, qua orlentem fpe^flat, regiae 
nobilitati tefta praebet ; meridiem verfus 
Sphasriflerium habet aullcae recrcationi def- 
tinatum j Septentrlonale vcro latus decenter 
exornat domus regia, magnificis coenaculis, 
aulis & hypocauftis, privatoquc Sacello, cu- 
]us concameratio fuperior rofis & liliis deau- 
ratis eft diftincla ; in eo quoque amplifli- 
ma iila ccenatio conipicitur lxxviii. pafius 

longa, 



HENTZNER's Travels. 75 

is called Winchefler Tower *, there are a hun- 
dred fteps to it, fo ingenioufly contrived, that 
horfes can eafily afcend them ; it Is an hundred 
and fifty paces in circuit ; within it are preferv- 
ed all manner of arms neceflary for the de- 
fence of the place. 

The third Court is much the largcil of any, 
built at the expence of the captive king of 
France ; as it ftands higher, fo it greatly ex- 
cels the two former in fplendor and elegance ; 
it has one hundred and forty-eight paces in 
length, and ninety-feven in breadth ; in the 
middle of it is a fountain of very clear water, 
brought under ground at an exceilive expence 
from the diftanceof four miles : Towards the 
Eaft are magnificent apartments deftined for 
the royal houfhold ; towards the Wefl: is a 
tennis-court for the amufement of the court; 
on the North fide are the royal apartments, 
confifting of magnificent chambers, halls, and 
t bathing- rooms, and a private Chapel, the 
* This is confoujided with the round tower, 
t li ^^ not clear what the author means by hy- 
pocauftis ; I have tranjlated it hathing-rooms -y it 
might mean only chambers withjioves, roof 



76 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

longa, lata vero xxx. in qua folemni & 
peringenti facrorum }3ompa, annuam D. 
Georgii tutelaris memoriam Garetterii E- 
quites celebrant. 



Inde CCCLXXX. pafllis longa, feptem ve- 
ro lata ambulatio incredibili venuftate fe 
oiFert fulcimentrs llgneis undequaque con- 
fcpta, quae nobilibus magnificifque viris 
fuftentacula praebet, ut inde venationes, & 
falconum aucupia in area admodum lata 
confpiciant ; nam prata ac pafcua vario her- 
barum ac florum gencre veftita, peren- 
ni viriditate collibus ad Caftrum ufque leni- 
ter intumefcunt, deinde in iibratam plani- 
tlcm, maxima fpecSantium voluptate, kk 
oftcndunt. 



Praeter jam commemorata, notatu quoque 
digna funt ; i. hypocaufta duo fpeculis con- 
ftrata, & incruftata ; 2. cubiculum in quo 
* natus eft Hcnricus VI. Angliae rex 5 3. cu- 
biculum 



HENTZNER's Travels- 76 

roof of which is embellifhed with golden 
rofes and fleurs de lis ; in this too is that very- 
large banquetting-room, feventy-eight paces 
long, and thirty wide, in which the Knights 
of the Garter annually celebrate the memory 
of their tutelar faint, St. George, with a 
folemn and moil pompous fervice. 

From hence runs a walk of incredible 
beauty, three hundred and eighty paces in 
length, fet round on every fide with fupporters 
of wood, which fuftain a balcony, from 
whence the nobility and perfons of diftinclion 
can take the pleafure of feeing hunting and 
hawking in a lawn of fufEcient fpace ; for the 
fields and meadows clad with variety of plants 
and flowers, fwell gradually into hills of per- 
petual verdure quite up to the Caftle, and at 
bottom ftretch out in an extended plain, that 
ftrikes the beholders with delight. 

Befides what has been already mentioned, 
there are worthy of notice here two bathing"- 
rooms, cieled and wainfcotted with looking- 
glafs ; the chamber in which Henry VI. wa5 
born J queen Elizabeth's bed-chamber, where 

.is 



77 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

biculum reginae Elifabethas, in quo menfa eft 
marmore rubro candid is fibris afperfo ; 4. xyf- 
tus figuris & emblematibus gypfo impreffis un- 
dequaque ornatus ; 5. cubiculum, in quo 
regii ledi cubiculares funt Henrici VII. & 
uxoris ipfius, Edvvardi VI. Henrici VIII. 
Annae Boleniae, qui omnes in longitudinem 
& latitudinem xi. fere habent pedes, tapetig 
auro & argento fulgentibus inftrati ; Elifa- 
bethae quoque reginas le£tus variis tegumen- 
tis, & ftragulis acu pi6lis adornatus, fed non 
tarn longus & largus ut caeteri ; tapetum in 
quo repraefentatur Clodoveus Gallias rex cum 
Angelo florem liliorum ipfi porrigente, ut 
CO pro infigniis uteretur ; etenim Gallias reges 
antea tres in fcuto habebant bufones, in quo- 
rum locum tria lilia aurei colons, in cam- 
po cqeruleo, repofuerunt ; atque hoc tapetum 
vetuftiiTimum regi Galliae ereptum effe dici- 
tur, turn temporis, cum Angli Gallia poti- 
rentur; monftrabatur hie inter caetera nobis 
monocerotis cornu, in longitudine 8 2 fpi- 
thamas excedens, valoris 100,000. librar- 
auri; avis paradifi tres fpithamas longa, 
tres vero digitos crafla, roftrum habens coeru- 

leum. 



HENTZNER's Travels. 77 

is a table of red marble with white ftreaks ; 
a gallery every where ornamented v/ith em- 
blems and figures ; a chamber in which are 
the royal beds of Henry VII. and his queen, 
of Edward VI. of Henry VIIL and of Anne 
Bullen, all of them eleven feet fquare, and 
covered with quilts fhining with gold and fil- 
ver ; queen Elizabeth's bed, v/ith curious 
coverings of embroidery, but not quite fo long 
or large as the others ; a piece of tapefliy, in 
which is reprefented Clovis, king of France, 
with an Angel prefenting to him the fleurs de 
lis, to be born in his arms ; for before his time 
the kings of France bore three toads in their 
fneild, inftead of which they afterwards 
placed three fleurs de lis on a blue field ; this 
antique tapeftry is faid to have been taken from 
a king of France, while the Englifli were 
matters there. We were fliewn here among 
other things the horn of a unicorn, of above 
eight fpans and a half in length, valued at 
above 10,000 A ; the bird of paradife, three 
fpans long, three fingers broad, having a blue 
bill of the length of half an inch, the upper 
part of it's head yellow, the nether part 
Y of 



78 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

leum, fefqui artrculum digiti longum, fupe- 
rior capitis pars colons lutei, inferior autem 
optici ; inferius fub gula plumas utrinque ex- 
ertae coloris fubrubei funt, quemadmodum 
& In dorfb & reliquo corpore, alarum longitu- 
do coloris lutei duplo maior eft ipfa ave, fu- 
pra dorfum eminent juxta avis longitudinem 
duae utrinque fibrae aut nervi, quorum extre- 
mitas major fili craffioris formam habct, colo- 
ris plumbei, & ad nigredinem vergentis, qui- 
bus, cum pedibus careat, quiefcere volens ar- 
boribus inhserere dicitur : Pulvinar a regina 
Elifabetha artificiofiflime propria manu con- 
textum. 



E regione Vindiforii trans Thamefim, cu- 
jus utraque ripa ponte ligneo hie conjungitur, 
-^TONA cernitur, Collegium nitidum, & li- 
terarum humaniorum celebre Gymnafium, ab 
Henrico VI. conftruftum, in quo praeter Prae- 
fe<aum, Socios viii. & Cantores, puerl fexa- 
ginta gratuito aluntur : Grammaticam docen- 
tur, & tamdiu in hoc gymnafio commorantur, 
donee explorata ingeniorum fagacitate,, & fac- 
to 



HENTZNER's Travels. 78 

^f a * * * * colour 1 5 a little lower from 
either fide of it's throat ftick out fome redifh 
feathers, as well as from it's back and the reft of 
it's body ; it's wings of a yellow colour are 
twice as long as the bird itfelf ; from it's back 
grow out length ways two fibres or nerves, 
bigger at their ends, but like a pretty ftrong 
thread, of a leaden colour, inclining to black, 
with which, as it has no fect^ it is faid to 
faften itfelf to trees, when it wants to reft : 
A cufhion moft curioufly wrought by queen 
Elizabeth's own hands* 

In the prccindls of Wind for, on the other 
fide the Thames, both whofe banks are joined 
by a bridge of wood, is Eton, a well built 
College, and famous School for polite letters^ 
founded by Henry VI. where befides a Mafter, 
eight Fellows and Chanters, fixty Boys are 
maintained gratis : They are taught Gram- 
mar, and remain in the fchool, till upon 
trial made of their genius and progrefs in 

t The original is optici ; // is impojjibje U 
^uefs what colour he meant. 

Y 2 ftudv. 



79 MENTZNERI Itinerakium. 

to in ftudiis progreflu in Academiam Canta- 
brigienfem mittantur. > 

Cum hinc ad diverforium noftrum revertere- 
mur, foFtc fortuna incidimus in rujiicos fpici- 
legla fua celebr antes ^ qui ultimam frugum vc- 
hem floribus coronant, addita imagine fplcn- 
dide veftita, qua Cererem forfitan fignificare 
volentes, earn hinc inde movent, & magno 
cum clamore viri juxta ac muiieres, fervi 
atque ancillae currui infidcntcs per plateas 
vociferantur, donee ad horreum deveniant : 
- Agricorsfe fruges hie non in manipulos, uti 
apudnos fieri confuevit, colligunt, fed ftatim, 
quam primum refeci^t^ vel demeffe funt, ear- 
ns imponunt, & in horrea fua convehunt. 

Stanes, vicum tranfivimus. 

Hamptok-Court, Arx Regia, ex coSth 
lateribus a Thoma Wolfaeo Cardinale ad opes 
fuas oflcntandas magnifice extrucSa, quae 
quinque peramplas areas, cultiflimis aedificiis 
cin£las, opere admodum fpeciofo includit : 

Ad 



HENTZNER's Travels. 79 

ftudy, they are fent to the Univerfity of 

Canibrido-e. 



As we were returning to our inn, we hap- 
pened to meet fome country people celebrating 
their Harvejl-hoine ; their lafl: load of corn 
they crown with flowers, having befides an 
image richly drefled, by which perhaps they 
would fignify Ceres, this they keep moving 
about, while men and women, men and maid 
fcrvants, riding through the flreets in the cart, 
fhout as loud as they can till they arrive at the 
barn : The farmers here do not bind up their 
corn in fheaves, as they do with us, but di- 
rc(5Wy as they have reaped or mowed it, put it 
into carts, and convey it into their barns. 

We went through the town of Staines. 

Hampton-Court, a Royal Palace, mag- 
nificently built with brick by Cardinal Wolfey 
in oftentation of his wealth, where he en- 
clofed five very ample courts, confifting of 
noble edifices in very beautiful work : Over 

the 



8o HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Ad portam fecundae are^e eft aurea Rofa, cum 
fymbolo Reginae, Diet; et mon Droist : 
Ex altera parte, interiore nempe, hujus por- 
tae, funt xii. imperatorum Romanorum 
effigies ex gypfo. Area Ipfa primaria lapide 
quadrato conftrata eft, in cujus centro fons 
falientis aquae, corona deaurata ftatuae Juftitiae 
fubpofita te6tus confpicitur, quam columnae 
ex marmore albo & nigro fuftinent. Sacellum 
arcis fplendidifTimum eft, in cujus fuperiori 
parte Regia fedes tota tranfparet & pellucet 
a feneftris criftallinls. Dedu6li fuimus in 
, Cameras duas, quas pr^efentationem vel au- 
. dientiae vpcant fplcndentes tapetis aureis, ar- 
^enteis & fericis diverfi coloris; fub regio, 
five majeftate ex margaritis hae voces erant 
confutae j Vivat rex Henricus VIIL Eft ibi 
quoque parvum Sacellum tapetis fplendide or- 
natum, in quo Reglna facra tra6tare folet. In 
cubiculo Reginae leilus preciofiilimis ftragu- 
lis fericis crat coopertus : Non procul abhinc 
vidimus Ic&um, cujus conopcea Anna Bolonia 
. texuit, & Henrico VIII. Angli regi marito 
ilio donavit. Omnia rcliqua conclavia, quo- 
rum 



.HENTZNER's Travels. So 

the gate in the fecond area is the Queen's 
device, a golden Rofe, with this motto, 
DiEU ET MON Droit : On the inward 
lide of this gate are the effigies of the twelve 
Roman emperors in plaifter. The cheif area 
is paved with fquare ftone, in it's center is a 
fountain that throws up water, covered with 
a gilt crown, on the top of which is a ftatue 
of Juftice, fupported by columns of black 
and white marble. The Chapel of this palace 
is mod fplendid, in which the Queen's clofet 
is quite tranfparent, having it's windovi^s of 
chryftal. We were led into two chambers, 
called the prefence, or chambers of audience, 
which fhone with tapeftry of gold and filvcr 
and fdk of different colours ; under the cano- 
py of ftate are thefe words embroidered in 
pearl, Vtvat Henricus Oclavus. Here is be- 
fides a fmall Chapel richly hung with tapeftry, 
where the Queen performs her devotions. In 
her bed-chamber the bed was covered with very 
coftly coverlids of filk : At no great diftance 
from this room we were fhewn a bed, the 
teaftef of which was worked by Anne Bullen^ 

and 



8i HENTZNERI Itinerariua^. 

rum funt plurima, tapetis artificiofifiime ex 
holoferlco diverfi colons, auro & argento tex- 
tis, quibus ex parte hiftoriae funt inipreffc, ex 
parte habitus Turcici 5c Americani ad vivum 
repraefentati, erant adornata. 



In atrio hsec vifu digna : 

' Speculum pellucidum, imagunculis & co- 
lumn is ex alabaftrite fa6lis ornatum ; effigies 
Edvvardi VI, regis Angliae fratris Elifabethab 
reginae ; vera Lucretise effigies ; cum pugna 
Papienfi depi(Sa ; hiftoria paffionis Chrifti ex 
cochleis margaritarum fculpta ; vera Mariae 
Stuartae Scotiae reginae fecuri percufTae, ejuf- 
demque filiae imago i effigies Ferdinandi Prin- 
cipis Hifpaniarum, Philippi filii ; & Henrici 
VIII. Angliae regis, fub cujus pi<Sura Biblia 
facra eleganter in membranam fcripta erant 
collocata ; fphaera artificial is ; varia inftru- 
menta mufica ; tapetia in quibus iEthiopes 
elephantibus infidentes repraefentantur. Leftus 
in quo natus perhlbetur Edvvardus VI. matrc 
puerpera Semeria in eodcm morte extinfta ; 

In 



.HENTZNER's Travels. 8i 

and prefented by her to her hufband Henry 
VIII. All the other rooms, being very nu- 
merous, are adorned with tapeftry of gold, 
filver, and velvet, in fome of which were 
woven hiflory pieces -, in others, Turkiih and 
American dreffes, all extremely natural. 

In the Hall axe thefe curiofities : 
A very clear looking-glafs, ornamented with 
columns and little images of alabafter ; a por- 
trait of Edward VI. brother to queen Eliza- 
beth ; the true portrait of Lucretia ; a pi6lure 
of the battle of Pavia ; the hiftory of Chrift's 
paflion, carved in mother of pearl j the por- 
traits of Mary queen of Scots, who was be- 
headed, and her * daughter j the picture of 
Ferdinand Prince of Spain, and of Philip his 
Son ; that of Henry VIII. under it was 
placed the Bible curioufly written upon parch- 
ment y an artificial fphere j feveral mufical in- 
ftruments ; in the tapeftry are reprefentcd ne- 
groes riding upon elephants. The bed in which 
Edward VI. is faid to have been born, and 

* Here are feveral mjlakes* 

Z ' wher<? 



82 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

In cubiculo quodam tapetia erant ditiffima, 
quae parietibus affigi folent, quando legati pe- 
i'egrini ad reginam admittuntur; multa ibi- 
dem pulvinaria, auro & argento decorata, mul- 
tae veftes ftraguLr, & tegumenta ledlorum, 
pellibus ermelinis fuffulta ; omnia denique ta- 
bulata per totam arcem auro et argento ful- 
gentia. Porro eft quoddam in hac arce con- 
clave, quod Paradifus appellatur, in quo prae- 
terquam quod omnia & auro argento atque 
gemmis ita refplendent, ut oculos hebetent, 
eft inftrumentum muficum totum vitreum, 
folis chordis aut fetis exceptis. IntroduiSi 
poftea in hortos amcenlinmos, vidimus rofma- 
rinum ita parietibus implantatum & applica- 
tum, ut cos omnes pene contegeret, ^ftque 
hsec rofmarini fruticis plantatio in Anglid fre- 
quentifTima. 

Kingston, vicusj- 

Nonesuch aut Nonesutsch, ut nos 
pronunciamus, Secefius Regius, quern mag- 
nificentifTimus rex Henricus YIII. in loco 
f^luberrimo, prius Cuddington dido, de- 

litiis 



HENTZNER's Travels. 8a 

where his mother Jane Seymour died in child- 
bed ; in one chamber were feveral excelGively 
rich tapeftries, which are hung up when the 
Queen gives audience to foreign ambafiadors ; 
there were numbers of cufhions ornamented 
with gold and filver ; many counterpanes and 
coverlids of beds lined with ermine ; in fliort 
all the walls of the palace fhine with gold and 
filver. Here is befides a certain cabinet called. 
Paradife, where befides that every thing glit- 
ters ib with filver, gold and jewels, as to 
da:izle one's eyes, there is a mufical inftru- 
ment made all of glafs, except the firings. 
Afterwards we were led into the gardens, 
which are moft pleafant, here we favv rofemary 
fo planted and nailed to the walls as to cover 
them entirely, which is a method exceeding 
common in England. 

Kingston, a market town. 

Nonesuch, a Royal Retreat, in a place 

formerly called Cuddington, a very health-^ 

ful fituation, chofen by king Henry VIII. for 

his pleafure and retirement, and built by him 

Z 2 Wit^ 



8 J HENTZNERl Itinerarium. 

litiis & otio fuo deftinavit, tantaque magnifi-^ 
ceiitia & elegantiii exftruxit, ut ad oftentationis 
arcem afpiret ; & omnem architedonices peri- 
tiani in uno hoc opere coacervatam exiftimes : 
Tot.fuiit ubique fpirantia figna, tot abfolutac 
artjs miracula & Romaiiae aiitiquitatis aemula 
opera ex gy pfo afFabre favSla, ut optimo jure 
hoc fuuni iiomeii habeat & tueatur, quod 
Latlne ut nonnullis placet, Nulli fecunda, 
ibnat, vel ut alius cecinit 5 

Hanc^ quia non haheai fanilem^ laudare Britanni 
ScEpe folent^ Nulllque parem^ cognoinine dicunt, 

jEdes vero ipfas, fic circumcingunt vivaria, 
damis rcferta, horti delicati, luci topiario 
opcre exoriiati, areolae 5c ambulacra fic arbori- 
bus obumbrata,. ut non aliam fibi fedem ipfa 
Ammutas^ ubi cum Salubritate una cohabitet, 
dekgifle videatur. 



In hortis voluptuariis h artificialibus mul- 
t.t funt columnae U pyramides marmoreae ; 
fontes itidem lalientis -aquae duo, alter forma 

rotunda, 



HENTZNER's Travels. 8f 

with an excefs of magnificence and elegance, 
c\'en to oftentation ; one would imagine every 
thing that archite£ture can perform to have- 
been employed in this one v/ork : There are 
every where fo many ftatues that feem to 
breath, fo many miracles of ccnfummate art, 
fo many cafts that rival even the pcrfe6tion of 
Roman antiquity, that it may well claim and 
juftify it's name of Noncfuch, being v/ithout 
an equal ^ or as the Poet fung, 

77;/i which no equal has in art or fame ^ 
Britons defervedly do Nonefuch name. 

The palace itfelf is fo -encom.pafTed with 
parks full of deer, delicious gardens, groves 
ornamented with trellis work, cabinets of 
verdure, and walks fo embrowned by trees, 
that it feems to be a place pitched upon by 
Pleafure herfelf, to dwell in along with 
Health, 

In the pleafure and artificial gardens arc 
many columns and pyramids of marble, two 
fountains that fpout water one round the other 

like 



«4 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

rotunda, alter pyramidis inftar, cui avieulae in- 
cident aquam exfpuentes : In luco Dianae, in 
quo fons artificialis eft vifu admodum jucun- 
dus, Aftaeoa afperfione dearum in cervum 
ti'anfnmtatur, additis infer iptionibus* 

Videtur poftea alia quoque pyramis marmo- 
rea, ex qua uiidiquaque fiftulae exeunt ; quafc 
©bviantes afpergunt. 

Reverfi hinc Londinum. 



B R E V I s 

A N G L I JE 

D E S C R I P T I O. 



BRITANNIA, quje hodie Anglia, 
Sc Scotia duplici nomine appellator, Sc 
duo in ie regna continet, totius noftri orbis in- 
sula maxima eft, & oceano, mari Germanico 
$c Gallico ambitur : Pars hujus maximae & 

Auftralior 



HENTZNER's Travels. 84 

like a pyramid, upon which are perched fmall- 
birds that ftream water out of their bills : In 
the grove of Diana is a very agreeable foun- 
tain, with Aclaeon turned into a ftag, as he 
was fprinkled by the goddefs and her nymphs, 
with infcriptions. 

There is befides another pyramid of marble 
full of concealed pipes, which fpirt upon all 
who come within their reach. 

Returned from hence to London'. 
A Short 

DESCRIPTION 

O F 

E N G L A N D* 

BRITAIN, confifting of the two king-*, 
doms of England and Scotland, i** 
the largeft ifland in the world, encompafled. 
by the ocean, the German and French feas ft#: 
The largeft and Southern part of it is Eng-n 

land; 



85 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Auftralior nunc Anglia, ab Anglls^ qui tX 
provlnciola regni Danix, quae hodie Angel 
nuncupatur, progreffi earn occuparunt, fic de- 
nominatae, proprium habet Regem, qui praster 
Deum, fuperiorem non agnofcit. Divifa eft 
regio in xxxix. Comitatus, quibus xiii. in 
Wallla ^djunxit Henricus VIII. Anglic rex, 
qui primus earn regionem in Comitatus dil- 
tribuit : In hifce Comitatibus difficilioribu« 
temporibus prgefedlus regius, quern Lieute- 
nant vocant, ne quid detriment! capiat refpub- 
lica, conftituitur. Singulis vero annis nobili* 
quidarh ex incolis prseficitur, quern vice Co- 
mitem, quafi Comitis vicarium vocant ; eju« 
eft publicas pecunias provincial fuse conquirere, 
mulctas irrogatas, vel captis pignoribus colli- 
gere & aerario inferre ; Judicibus pr^efto adefle, 
Sc eorum.mandata exequi 5 duodecim viros co- 
gere, qui in caufis <le hS:o cognofcunt, & ad 
Judices referunt ( Judices enim in Anglia 
Juris folum, non favSli, junt Judices) condem- 
natos ad fupplicium ducere & in minoribut 
litibus cognofcere ; in majoribus autem jus 
dicunt Juftitiarii, quos olim itinerantes, nune 
Juftitiarios ad aftifas vocant, qui quotannis 



HENTZNER's Travels. i^ 

land, fo named from the Angli, who quitting 
the little territory yet called Angel in the 
kingdom of Denmark, took pofTeflion here. 
It is governed by it's own King, who owns no 
fuperior but God. It is divided into 39 
Counties, to which 13 in Wales were added 
by Henry VIIL the firft who diftributed that 
Principality into Counties ; over each of thefe 
in times of danger a Lord Lieutenant, no- 
minated by the King, prefides with an un- 
limited power : Every year fome gentleman, 
an inhabitant of the place, is appointed 
Sheriff, his office is to colleft the public 
monies, to raife fines, or to make feizures, 
and account for it to the Treafury, to attend 
upon the Judges, and put their fentence in exe- 
cution, to em'pannel the Jury, who fit uppn 
. fa6ls, and return their verdict to the Judges, 
(who in England are only fuch of the Law, 
and not of the Fa6t) to convey the condemn- 
ed to execution, and to determine in lefler 
caufes ; for the greater are tried by the Judges, 
formerly called travelling Judges, now Judges 
ef affize ; thefe go their circuits through the 
A a Counties 



86 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

hos Comitatus bis obeunt^ ut de cauflis cogriof-* 
cant, & de incarceratis fententiam ferant. * 

Quod ad Ecclefiafticam Jurifdlftlonem at- 
tinet ; cum Romani Pontifices Ecclefias fingu- 
las fingulis prefbyteris affignaflent, & paro- 
chias eis divifiilent, Honorius Archiepifcopus 
Cantuarienns, circa annum a falute reparata 
636. Angliam primus in parochias diflribuere 
cepit : Quemadmodum autem duas nunc 
Anglia habet Provincias, fic Archiepifcopos 
duos, Cantuarienfem nimirum, totius Angliae 
Primatem & Metropolitanum ; & Eboracen- 
fem ; quibus fubfunt xxv. Epifcopi ; Cantua- 
rienfi xxii. Eboracenfi tres reliqui. 

Terra eft frugifera, pecore maxime abun- 
dans, quo fit, ut incolae quafi plures pecuarii, 
quam aratores fmt ; quod magis ferme pabulo 
quam arvo colendo ftudeant ; fic ut tertia pro- 
pemodum terrae pas tantum pecori reli6la fit 
inculta. Regio eft quocunque anni tempore 
temperatilTima, atque caeli nulla gravitas, adeo 
ut rari fiiit mcrbi, .& inde minor medicina? ufijs 
quam alibi. Flumina hie admodum rara : So- 
lum 



HENTZNER's Travels. 86 

Counties twice every year to hear caufes, 
and pronounce fentence upon prifonejs. 

As to Ecclefiaftical Jurifdiftion, after the 
Popes had affigned a church and a parifh to 
every Prieft, Honorius Archbifhop of Canter- 
bury, about the year 636, began to divide 
England in the fame manner into parifnes : 
As it has two Provinces, fo it has two Arch- 
bifhops, the one of Canterbury, Primate and 
Metropolitan of all England, the other of 
York ; fubjefl: to thefe are 25 Bifhops, viz. 
22 to Canterbury, the remaining three to 
York. 



The foil is fruitful, and abounds with cattle, 
which inclines the inhabitants rather to feed- 
ing than ploughing, fo that near a third part 
of the land is left uncultivated for grazing. 
The climate is moft temperate at all times, 
and the air never heavy, confequently maladies 
are fcarcer, and lefs phyfic is ufed there than 
any where elfe. There are but few rivers : 
Though the foil is produ61:ive it bears no wine, 
A a 2 bu) 



87* HENTZNERI Itikerarium. 

lum eft fecundum, fed vinum tellus non gig- 
nit, verum aliunde nobiliilima vina important 
tur, uti funt, Aurelianenfia, Gafconica, Rhe- 
nana, Hifpanica. Cerevifia quae ex hordeo 
coquitur maximo in ufu eft, optimique faporis, 
fed fortis, & quae facile eos inebriat. Colles 
paflim multi, nullis arboribus confiti, neque 
aquarum fontibus irrigui, qui herbam tenuifu- 
mam atque breviflimam producunt, quse tamen 
ovibus abunde pabulum fuppcdiat ; per eos 
ovium greges candidiflimi vagantur, quas five 
cocli, feu bonitate terrae, niullia, Sc longe 
omnium aliarum regionum tenuiflima fcrunt 
veilera: Hoc vellus vere aureum eft, in quo 
potiiUmum infulanorum divitiae confiftunt ; 
nam magna Si auri & argenti copia a negotia- 
toribus ejufmodi inprimis coemcndi mercis gra- 
tia, in infulam quotannis importatur. Canes 
prceftantiflimos habet. Fert aurum, argcntum, 
ftannum, (ex quo vafa domeftica dii61:a apud 
omnes Europaeos in menfarum ufu argenteis 
fulgore comp^rantur) plumbum & ferrum, fed 
ejus exigua copia : Equcs parvos, fed celeres 
habct : Vitriari^e oiEcinae permultae. 



HENTZNER's Travels. if 

but that want is fupplied from abroad by the 
beft kinds, as of Orleans, Gafcon, Rhenifh 
and Spanifh. The general drink is beer, 
which is prepared from barley, and is excel- 
lently well tafted, but ftrong, and what foon 
fuddles. There are many hills without one 
tree, or any fpring, which produce a very 
fhort and tender grafs, and fupply plenty of 
food to fheep, upon thefe wander numerous 
flocks, extremely white, and whether from 
the temperature of the air, orgoodnefs of the 
earth, bearing fofter and finer fleeces than 
thofe of any other country : This is the true 
Golden Fleece, in which confift the cheif 
riches of the inhabitants, great fums of money 
being brought into the ifland by merchants, 
chiefly for that article of trade. The dogs 
here are particularly good. It has mines of 
gold, filver, and tin, (of which all manner o£ 
table utenfils are made, in brightnefs equal to 
filver, and ufed all over Europe) of lead, and 
of iron, but not much of the latter : The 
horfes are fmall but fwift : Glafs-houfes arc iji 
plenty here. 

0/ 



88 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 



Z)^ MoRiBus ANGLORUM. 

Sunt Angli graves ut Germani, magnifici 
domi forifque, magna aflecSlantium famulorum 
agmina fecum trahunt, quibus in finiftro brav 
chio fcuta ex argento facSla appendant, & non 
immerito vexaritur, illos caudas a tergo ha- 
bere : In faltationibus & arte mufica excellunt ; 
funt enim agiles & alacres, licet crafTiores cor- 
poribus quam Galli ; mediam capitis partem 
capillos detondent, utroque latere illaefo ; funt 
boni nautae & infignes pyratae, aftuti, fallaces, 
iz furaces ; Londini fmgulis annis, ultra 3^0, 
iicuti vulgo fcrtur, fufpcnduntur ; decapitatio 
minoris apud ipfos eft infamiae, quam ftrangu- 
latio ; ire prope murum honoratior els locus ; 
frequens falconum & accipitrum apud nobi- 
les in venationibus ufus ; in edendo civiliores 
Gallis, parcius utuntur pane, carnibus verp 
largius, quas optime aflant ; in potum copiosq 
immittunt faccarum; tegumenta le£lorum 
funt tapctia, etiam apud rufticos ; laborant 

frequenter 



HENTZNER's Travels. 



Of the Manners ^/ //^^ ENGLISH. 

The Englifh are ferious like the Germans, 
lovers of ihew ; liking to be followed where- 
ever they go by whole troops of fervants, 
who wear their mafters arms in filver, faftened 
to their left arms, a ridicule they defervedly 
lay under : They excell in dancing and mufic, 
for they are a^live and lively, though of a 
thicker make than the French ; they cut their 
hair clofe on the middle of the head, letting 
it grow on either fide ; they are good failors, 
and better pyrates, cunning, treacherous, and 
thievifh; above 30® are faid to be hanged 
annually at London ; beheading with them 
is lefs infamous than hanging ; they give the 
wall as the place of honour ; hawking is the 
general fport of the gentry ; they are more 
polite in eating than the French, devouring 
lefs bread, but more meat, which they roaft 
in perfection ; they put a great deal of fugar 
in their drink ; their beds are covered wuth 
tapeftry, even thofe of farmers \ they are often 

molefted 



89 HENTZNEHI Itikerarium. 

frequenter lepra, alba vulgo dicSla, quam pri- 
mi; Normannorum temporibus in An2:]iam 
irrepfilTe, fama eft ; in sedibus duas plaerun- 
que conti<^nationes habent, excepto Londino, 
iibi tres raro quatuor reperiuntur ; sedificant 
ex ligno, vcl, qui lautioris funt fortunae, 
ex coclis lateribus, tedia habent dcprelTiora, 
qua:*, ditiores pi umbo tegunt. 

Sunt potcntes in praeliis, undiquaque de- 
bellant adverfarios, nullumque penitus patiun- 
tur jugum fervitutis ; dele6lantur quoque vzldh 
ibnitibus, qui ipfis aures implent, uti explo- 
fionibus tormentorum, tympanis & campana- 
rum boat.!, ita iit Londini multi qui fe in- 
cbriavcrint turrem unam aut alteram, exer- 
dtii caufa, afcendant, & per boras aliquot 
campanis fignum dent. Si quern exterum, 
egregid forma Si ftatura ornatum vident, do- 
lore dicunt, ^4od non fit homo Anglicus, 
vulgo Englishman. 

FAMI- 



HENTZNER's Travels. 89 

molefted with the {curvy, faid to have £rft 
crept into Englajld with^ the Noritian con- 
quefl ; their houfes are commonly of two 
ftories, except in London, where they are of 
three and four, though but feldom of four ; 
they arc built of Wood, thofe of the richer 
fort with bricks, their roofs are low^, and 
where the owner has money, covered with 
lead. 

They are powerful in the field, fuccefsful 
againft their enemies, impatient of any thing 
like flavery; vadly fond of great noifes that 
fill the ear, fuch as the firing of cannon^ 
drums, and the ringing of bells, fo that it Is 
common for a number of them, that have 
got a glafs in their heads, to go up into fome 
belfry, and ring the bells for hours together, 
for the fake of exercife. If they fee a foreigner, 
very -well made or particularly ijandforae, 
they will fay, It is a pity he is ?iot an Ekg- 

LISHMAN. 

B b Thel 



90 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 



F A M I L I ^ 



ILLUSTRES IN 



A N G L I A. 



^ ^ ^-r^ H O M A S Howard, Dux Norfol- 
A ciae, & Comes Surriae, haeredita- 
rius Marefchallus Angliae ; Ducatus defit ob 
perduellionem, ille capite 'auncAtus. 

t Gray Dux SufFulciae, fublatus titulo fub 
Maria- 

t Phil. Howard, Comes Arundel, jure ma- 
terno, & Surriae paterno, filius fuperioris 
Ducis Norfolciae, damnatus laefse majeftati$ 
& amifit dignitates. 

Edwardus Vere, Comes Oxonii, eft haere- 
ditarius Camerarius Angliae. 

* ^a defterunt f notavu 

Percy 



HENTZNER's Travei.s. 90 
The Illustrious 

FAMILIES OF ENGLAND 

*^npHOMAS Howard, Duke of 
A Norfolk, hereditary Marflial of 
England ; the Dutchy is extinft for rebel- 
ii6h, the laft Duke being beheaded. 

t Grey Duke of Suffolk, attainted under 
queen Mary. 

f Philip Howard, Earl of Arundel, in hi« 
Mother's right, and of Surry by his Father, 
Son of the above-mentioned Duke of Nor- 
folk, he himfelf condemned for high-treafon, 
and his titles forfeited. 

Edward Vere, Earl of Oxford, hereditary 
Chamberlain of England, 

* Thofe marked with a f are extin^i^ or 
forfeited, 

B b 2 Percy 



91 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Percy Conies Northumbriae, ortus a Du- 
cibus Brabantias. 

t Carolus Nevill, Comes Weftmerland, 
exulat in Belgio, bonis & dignitate exutus ob 
rebel lionem. 

Talbott Comes Salopiae Anglicc, Shrerofbury, 

Gi'ay Comes Cantii, exiguos habet reditus. 

S lanley Gomes Derbije, & Regulus Mauaia?. 

Mannors Comes Rutlandiae^ 

Somerfet Comes Worceflri je, ortus a fpurio 
Sommerf : familrce, quae fiirps eft e regid 
PI an tag in a tor um familid. 

ClifFord Comes Cumberland. 

Ratciiff Comes Safiexice. 

Haftingus Comes Huntington, e familia 
Eboracenfi per foeminam. 

Bourchier Comes Bath. 
« t Ambrcfms Sutton, alias Dudley, Comes 
V/arvvici, obiit fine prole ante aliquot annos. 

Wriothefly 



HENTZNER's Travels. 91 

Percy Earl of Northumberland, defcended 
from the Dukes of Brabant. 

t Charles Ncvill Earl of Weftmoreland, 
ban idled into Holland, and deprived of his 
fortunes and dignities for rebellion. 

Talbot Earl of Shrewfbury. 

Grey Earl of Kent, has but a fmall eftate. 

Stanley Earl of Derby, and King of Man. 

Maimers Earl of Rutland. 

Somcrfet Earl of Worcefter, defcended 
from a baftard of the Somerfet famib', which 
itfelf is of the royal family of the Plantagenets. 

CliiFord Earl of Cumberland. 
RatclifF Earl of Sufl'ex. 

Haftings Earl of Huntingdon, of the line 
of York, by the Mother's fide. 

Bourchier Earl of Bath, 
t Ambrofe Sutton, alias Dudley, Earl of 
Warwick, died a few years fuice childlefs. 

Wriothe/ly 



gx HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Wriotheily Comes Southampton. 

Ruffel Comes Bedford. 

Herbert Comes Pembroke. 

t Edward us Seymour, Comes Hertford, 
filius Duels Sommerfetti capite muldati fub 
Edwardo VI. 

t Robertus Sutton, vel Dudley, Comes 
Leyceftriae, frater Warwicenfis, obiit ante 
aliquot annos. 

Robertus 4' Euvreux, Comes Effexius, & 
Effuanus in Normandia, creatus hxreditarius 
Marefchallus Angliae, 1598. 

Carolus Howard, e familia Ducum Nor- 
folciae, creatus Comes Notthingam 1597, 
Anglise Ammiralleus, & Confdiarius Regius, 

Fiefnes Comes Lincolnix. 

Broune Vicecorncs Montlfacuti. 

Howard, e familia Ducum Norfolciae, Vice- 
comes Bindon. 

Novil 



HENTZNER's Travels. 92 

Wriothefly Earl of Southampton. 

Ruffel Earl of Bedford. 

Herbert Earl of Pembroke. 

t Edward Seymour Earl of Hertford, 
Son of the Duke of Somerfet, who was be- 
headed in the reio-n of Edward VI. 

o 

t Robert Sutton, or Dudley, Earl of 
Leicefter, Brother of the Earl of Warwick^ 
died a few years ago, 

Robert d' Evereux Earl of Eflex, and of 
Ewe in Normandy, created hereditary Marfhal 
of England, in 1598. 

Charles Howard, of the Norfolk family, 
created Earl of Nottingham 1597^ Lord 
High Admiral of England, and privy Coun- 
fellor. 

Fiefnes Earl of Lincoln. 

Brown Vifcount Montacute. 

Howard, of the Norfolk family, Vifcount 

Bindon. 

Nevill 



93 HENTZNERI rTiNERARiirM. 

Nevill Aburgavcny Baro ; dc hac Biircnia 
jam controvertitur. 

Touchet Baro Audley, 

Zouch Baro Zouch. 

Peregrinus Berty, Baro Willoughby de 
Erfby & Beake, PrsefeJlus Berv» ok. 

Barckley Baro Barckley, ex antiqua fami- 
lia regum Danias. 

Parckcr Baro Marley. 

t Dacre Baro Dacre de Gyllefland, va- 
cat b?ec Baronia. 

t Baro Dacre ad Aiiftrum, obi it ante 
quatuor annos, Baronia ad filiam pervenit. 

Brofze Baro Cobham, Guardianus quinquc 
portuum. 

Stafford Baro Stafford, ad inopiam redaftus, 
hreres eft familiae Ducum Buckingbamei ; qui 
ha?reditarii crant Conneftabilcs Angliae. 

Gr^j Baro Gray, de Wilton. 

Sorwpc 



HENTZIsPER's Travels.. 93 

Nevill Baron Abergavenny ; this Barony 
is controverted. 

Touchet Baron Audley. 

Zouch Baron Zouch* 

Peregrine Bertie Baron Willoughby of 
Erefby and Brooke, Governor of Berwick. 

Berkley Baron Berkley, of the antient fa- 
mily of the kings of Denmark. 

Parker Baron Morley. 
t Dacre Baron Dacre of Gyllelland, this 
Barony is vacant. 

t Dacre Baron Dacre of the South, he 
died four years fince, and the Barony devol- 
ved to his daughter. 

Brook Baron Cobham, Warden of the 
einque-ports. 

StaiFord Baron Stafford, reduced to want, he 
is heir to the family of the Dukes of Bucking- 
ham, who were hereditary Conftables of Eng- 
land. 

Gray Baron Gray of Wilton. 

C c Scroop 



94 HENTNERI Itinerarium. 

Sorwpe Baro Sorwpe de Boulton. 

Subton Baro Dudley. 

Sturton Baro Stufton. 

t Nevill Baro Latimer, obiit ante aliquot 
annos fine niafculis hxredibus, de Baronii 
controvertitur* 

Lumley Baro Lumley. 

Blunt Baro Montjoy. 

Ogle Baro Ogle. 

Darcy Baro Darcy. 

Parcker Baro Mountegele, filius & hacrcs 
Baronis Morley, banc Baroniam habet jure 
matris e familla Stanley. 

Sandes Buro Sandes. 

Vaux Baro Vaux. 

Windfor Baro Windfor. 

Wentworth Baro Wentworth. 

Borough 



HENTZNER's Travels. 94. 

Scroop Baron Scroop of Boulton, 

Sutton Baron Dudley. 

Stourton Baron Stourton. 

t Nevill Baron Latimer, died fome years 
fince without heirs male, the title contro- 
verted. 

Lumley Baron Lumley. 

Blunt Baron Montjoy. 

Ogle Baron Ogle. 

Darcy Baron Darcy. 

Parker Baron Montegle, fon and heir of 
Baron Morley, he has this Barony in right of 
his mother, of the family of Stanley. 

Sandys Baron Sandys. 

Vaux Baron Vaux. 

Windfor Baron Windfon 

Wentworth Baron Wentworth. 

C c 2 Borouga 



95 HENTZNERI ItiNERARiulk. 

EcroiighBaro Borough, ad inopiam redacSus. 

Baro Mordant. Baro Evers* 

Bare Rich. Baro Sheffield. 

Baro North, Confiliarius regius 5c Thefau- 
rarius hofpirii rcgii. 

Baro Hundfdon, Confiliarius regius & Cu- 
bicularius hofpicii regii. 

Sackvill Baro Buckhurft, Confiliarius re- 
gius. 

Tho. Cecil Baro Burghley, filius Thefau- 
rarii Anglise. 

Cecil Baro Rofle, Burghley e filio nepos 
Thefaurarii pronepos ; adhuc puer habet Ba- 
roniam jure matris, filiae Comitis Rutlandiae. 

f Howard de Matravcrs, filius Comitis 
Arundel, adhuc natal ib as non rcftituitur* 

t Baro Cheyny. 

Baro Crqmv/el. Baro Wharton. 

Baro 



HENTZNER's Travels. gy 
Borough Baron Borough, reduced to want. 
Baron Mordaunt. Baron Eure. 
Baron Rich. Baron Sheffield. 

Baron North, privy Counfellor, and Trea- 
furer of the Houfliold. 

Baron Hunfdon, privy Counfellor, and 
Lord Chamberlain. 

Sackville Baron Buckhurft, privy Coun- 
fellor. 

Thomas Cecil Baron Burleigh, fon of the 
Treafurer. 

Cecil Lord Roos, grandfon of the Trea- 
furer, yet a child ; he holds the Barony in 
right of his mother, daughter to the Earl 
of Rutland. 

t Howard of Maltravers, fon of the Earl 
of Arundel, not yet reftored in blood. 

f Baron Cheyny. 

Baron Cromwell. Baron Wharton. 

Baron 



96 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Baro Willoughby de Parham. 

t Baro Pagett, cxulat dignitate exutus. 

Baro Chandois. Earo St. John, 

Baro Delaware, ipfius majores caeperunt 
fegem GallivC. 

Baro, Compton, pene omnia diflipavlt. 
Baro Norris. 

Tho. Howard, filius fecundo genitus Ducis 
Norfolcii, Baro Audley de SafFronwalden, jure 
materno. 

f Gulielmus, tertlus Norfolcii filius ne- 
-que Baro eft, neque adhuc natalibus refti- 
tutus. 

HaSfenus de FamtUls Ulujiribus. 

Navigio Thamefl fecundo Londino dif- 
ccfTimus & Greenwiciam, arcem regiam, 
^ dextra reliquimus, de qua fupra. 

Barcking, 



. HENTZNER's TriAVEiJs. g& 

Baron Willoughby of Parham. 

t Baron Pagett, in exile, attainted. 

Baron Chandois. Baron St. John. ' 

Baron Delaware, his anceftors took the king 
of France prifoner* 

Baron Compton, has fquandered almoft all 
his fubflance. 

Baron Norris. 

Thomas Howard, fecond fon of the Duke 
of Norfolk, Baron Audley of Saffronwalden, 
in his mother's right. 

t William, third fon of the Duke of Nor- 
folk, is neither a Baron, nor yet reftored in 

blood. 

Thus far of noble Families. 

We fet out from London in a boat, and 
fell down the river, leaving Greenwich^ 
which we have fpoken of before, on the right 
hand. 

Barking, 



§6 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 
Barcking, vicus a finiftra conrpectus. ' 

GravesendA, Anglins oppidulum portu 
commodo celebre, ad quod maximae naves ex 
Belgio appellere folent. Hinc cum poftridie 
cymba prcgrederemur ulterius, prius nobllifs, 
Davidi Strzielae Boemo, & Thobise Salandro 
inrpe6Lori ipfius, noftris per Galliam & An- 
liam comitlbus iridivifis, qui per Belgium in 
patriam redire cogitabant, ultimum vale dixi- 
mus, nobis rurfum in Galliam contendentibus -, 
Deus autem ter maximus voluntati ipforum 
rcfiirit ; nam adhuc pr^efentibus nobis, opti- 
mum Strzielam diarrhaea correptum, paucis 
pCiL difccfium noftruni diebus, uti ex literis 
Sal and ri poftea perccpimus, Londini febris ar^ 
dens extinxit. 

QiJiNCiCBURG, Caftcllum a dextra vidi- 
mus ; inde cum paulo ulterius cffcmus pro- 
grefii, oftrea in ipfo mari in noftro confpeftu 
capiebantur, qux alibi non delicatiora nee 
^plura, tefte Grtelio in Epitome theatri orbis 
terrarum in Anglia. 

WiTZSTEFFEL, 



HENTZNER's Travels. 97 

Barking, a town in fight on the left. 

Gravesend, a fmall town, famous for 
the convenience of it's port, the largeft Dutch 
(hips ufually call here. As we were to pro- 
ceed farther from hence by water, w^e took 
our laft leave here of the noble Bohemian 
David Strziela, and his tutor Tobias Salan- 
der, our conftant fellow-travellers through 
France and England, they defigning to re- 
turn home through Holland, we on a fecond 
tour into France ; but it pleafed Heaven to 
put a flop to their defign, for the worthy 
Str/iela was feized with a diarrhea a few days 
before our departure, and as we afterwards 
learned by letters from Salander, died in a few 
days, of a violent fever in London. 

QuEENBOROUGH; we left theCaflle on 

.ourright ^ a little farther we faw the Miing 

of oyfters out of the fea, which are no where 

in greater plenty or perfection j witnefs 

Ortelius in his Epitome, &c* 

D d . Whitstable, 



9» HENTZNERI lTrNER.ARit?M. 

WiTZSTEFFEL, pagus, hic Jiavi egreffi- 

Cantuarium, ubi fedes Archlepifcopi & 
Primatis Angliae eft, oppidiim pervetuftum, 
Romancx]ue ibeculo procul dubio illuftre, 
quod alias etiam Canttjaria, vulgo Can*- 
TERBURY dicitur, pedkes venimus. 

Duo funt hic Monafteria pene contigua^ 
Chrifti fcilicet, & D. Auguftini, utrumque 
aliquando Monachis ordiRi$ D. Eenedicli re- 
pletum ; quorum alterum, Chrifti nomine 
obliterato, temporibus fubfequentibus D. 
Thomae dedicatum eft, fitum quafi in medio 
oppidi fmu, & tanta majeftate cum duabus 
ingentibus turribus in coelum fe erigens, ut 
procul etiam intuentibus, quemadmodum Eras- 
mus inquit, religioncm incutiat. 

In Choro templi iftius, cujus ingreffum Can- 
celli ferrei prohibent, monumenta videntur 
fequentia : 

Henrici IV. regis Anglic, cum uxorc fud 
Navarrsea, ex marmore candido. 

Nicolai 



HENTZNER's Travkls, '9^ 

Whits TABLE, here we went afhore, 

Canterbury, we came to it on foot; 
this is the feat of the Archbifhop, Primate 
of all England, a very antient town, and 
without doubt of note in the time of th^ 
Romans. 

Here are two Monafteries almoft contigu- 
ous, namely of Chrift and St. Auguftine, 
both of them once filled with BenedicSHne 
Monks ; the former was afterwards dedicated 
to St. Thomas Becket, the name of Chrift 
being obliterated ; it ftands almoft in the 
middle of the town, and with fo much majefty 
lifts itfelf, and it's two towers, to a ftupen- 
dous height, that, as Erafmus fays, it ftrikes 
even tliofe, who only fee it at a diftance, with 
awe. 

 In the Choir, which is fhut up with iron 
rails, are the following monuments : 

King Henry IV. with his wife Joan of 
Navarre, of white marble. 

D d ^ Nicholas 



99 KENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Nicolai Woltonis, qui fuit Confiliarius 
Henrici VIII. Edward VI. Marise & Elifa- 
beth2e, Anglias regum & reginarum. 

Edwardi Prrncipis quondam tertii in Aqui- 
tania, Ducis de Cornewolle & Comitis 
Ceftrias. 

Reginaldi Poli, cum hac infcriptione : 
Depofitum Reginaldi Poli, Cardinalis & 
Archiepifcopi Cantuarienfis. 

Cardinalis Chaftillon. 

Sellam deinde vidimus in quam coUocari 
fdlent Epifcopi, quando inveftiuntur. In vefti- 
bulo Tcmpli, quod eft ad Auflrum, in faxum 
incifi funt trcs armati, qui Thomam Becket- 
tum, Archiepifcopum Cantuarienfeni, ob mar- 
tyrium inter Divos relatum, trucidarunt, ad- 
ditis his cognominibus, 

Tusci. Fusci. Berri. 

Hie 



HENTZNER's Travels. 99 

Nicholas Wootton, privy Counfellor to 
Henry VIII. Edward VI. Mary and Eli'^a-: 
hcth, kings and queens of England. 

Of Prince Edward, Duke of Aquitain and 
Cornv/all, and Earl of Cheftcr. 

Reginald Pole, with this infcription : 
The remains of Reginald Pole, Cardinal 
and Archbifliop of Canterbury. 

Cardinal Chatillon. 

We were then fhewn the chair in which 
the Bifhops are placed, when they are inftalled. 
In the veftibule of the church, on the South 
fide, ftand the ftatues of three men armed, 
cut in ftone, who flew Thomas Beckct Arch- 
bifliop of Canterbury, made a Saint for this 
martyrdom ; their names are adjoined, 
J Tusci. Fuse I. Berri. 

X This is another moji Inaccurate account : Ths 

murderers of Beckct zvere^ Tracy, Morville, 

Britton and Fitzurfe. 

Being 



loo HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

Hie cum ambulando defefii, nos pane & 
cerevifia aliquantulum refeciiTemus, poftea 
flatim equos curforios confcendimus, & fecun- 
dd aut tertia no<Stis hcra, in oppidum Dubrim, 
vulgo Dover, venimus. In via, qu3e fatis 
erat afpera & periculofa, tale quid nobis ac- 
cidit : Dux viae, vulgo poftillon, adolefcens, 
ad globuli fclopetarii i£lum, cum duobus ex 
noftris comitibus praeceflerat ; nos tardius in- 
fcqucndo focios noftros in tenebris e confpeftu 
noftro amittimus ; repcriinus poftea bivium ; 
ad dextram locus crat declivis & paluftris ^ 
ad finiftram colliculus ; hie dum dubii, utra 
harum viarum eligcnda fit, confultamus, ecce 
derepente vidcmus a dextro latere equites quof- 
(lam, noftris quoad equos, quoad veftitum & 
ftaturam corporis omniho fimiles ; qua propter 
Ir^tabundi illos fequl ftatulmus ; fed accidit, 
ut ifti, Deo ita nos protegente, nobis incla- 
mantibus liihil refponderent, fed viam fuam 
paluftrem pcrfequerentur adeo ftrenue, ut 
fmgulus pedum pofitus, & i6lus multas comi- 
tarentur ftammae igneae 3 quae res non imme- 
^-:^\<^ fufpicionem movif de latronibus^ 

de 



HENTZNER's Travels. ioo 



Being tired with walking, we refrefhed our- 
felves here with a mouthful of bread, and 
fome ale, and immediately mounted poft- 
horfes, and arrived about two or three o'clock 
in the morning at Dover. In our way to it, 
which was rough and dangerous enough, the 
following accident happened to us : Our 
guide, or pofl:ilion, a youth, was before with 
two of our company, about the diftance of a 
mufket-fhot, we by not following quick 
enough, had loft fight of our friends ; we 
came afterwards to where the road divided, on 
the right it was down hill, and marfhy, on 
the left was a fmall hill; whil ft we flopped 
here in doubt, and confulted which of the 
roads we fhould take, we faw all on a fudden 
on our right-hand fome horfemen, their ftature, 
drefs and horfes, exa6i:ly refembling thofe of 
our friends, glad of having found them again, 
we determined to fct on after them ; but it 
happened through God's mercy, that though. 
we called to them, they did not anfwer us, but 
Iccpt on down the marfhy road, at fuch a rate, 

that 



loi HENTZNERI IriNERARiuMi 

dc qiiibus eramus admoniti, vel de fpeftris 
iio£turnis potlus, quae, ficuti poftea nobis 
quoque relatum eft, in iftis locis folcnt efle 
frequentia ; accedebant ignes fatui magno nu- 
mero, ita ut horrore vel ftupore quodammodo 
concuterenlur ; verum faiSlum eft, ut pauIo 
paft viae dux cornu fignum daret, quo indicio, 
nos ad finiftram convertimus, & fie ad comites 
noftros falvi pervenimus ; qui a nobis inter- 
rogati, num obvios habuillent iftos, quos vi- 
dcramus, equites ; r^fponderunt, fe neminem 
vidifle ; variae deinceps hac de re, ut fieri folet, 
latae funt fententias ; quicquid autem fit, cer- 
tum profetfto nobis imminebat periculum, a 
quo, quod fimus liberati, foli Deo tribuendum 
& afcribcndum eft. 

Porro Dubris Angliae oppidum, quod inter 
cautes confidet (ubi portus ipfe oliin fuit, cum 
marc fc infinuaret, uti ex anchoris, & navium 
tabu! is erutis colligitur) portus opportunitate, 
quae jam fere nulla eft, Sc in Galliam trajeclu 
niagis cclebratur, quam fua vel elegantia 
vel frequentia. Celeberrimus enim Sz bre- 

vilTimiis 



HENTZNER's Travels. . lox 

that their horfes feet ftruck fire at every ftretch, 
which made us with reafon begin to fufpeiS: 
they were thieves, having had warning of fuch, 
or rather that they were nofturnal fpecSlres, 
who as we were afterwards told, are 
frequently (qcii m thofe places, there were 
likewife a great many Jack-w'-a-Ianthorns, 
fo that we were quite feized with horror and 

amazement ! But fortunately for us, 

our guide foon after founded his horn, and 
we following the noift, turned down the left- 
hand road, and arrived fafe to our comT>anIons, 
who when we had afked them. If they had 
not feen the horfemen who had gone by us ? 
Anfv^ered, not a foul : Our opinions accord- 
ing to cuftoni were various upon this matter ; 
but whatever the thing was, we were without 
doubt in imminent danger, from which that 
we efcaped, the glory is to be afcribed to 
God alone. * 

Dover, fituated among cliffs, (ftanding 
where the Port itfelf.was originally, as may 
be gathered from Anchors, and parts of veflels 
dug up there) is more famous for the con- 

V .i E e veniencc 



102 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

viiTimus hie eft trajedus xxx, millium paflu- 
um, qui fpatio quinque vel fex horarum, fecun* 
do fpirante vento, poteft abfolvi, ficut nof- 
mctipfi fumus expert! ; nutnerant hinc non- 
nuili Caletum ufque ocSlbdecim, Boloniam 
vero fcdecim milliaria Anglicana, quae Italicis 
Jongiora dicit efie Ortelius, in fuo Theatre. 



Templum habuit Martino facrum, a Viflre- 
do Cantii rege fundatum, militum etiam 
Templariorium aedes, quse jam difparuerunt, 
ibdemque praebet Archiepifcopi Cantuarienfis 
SufFraganeo; qui cum gravioribus Archiepif- 
copus negotiis diftri<Scus fit, quae ordinis funt, 
non quae jurifdiftionis Epifcopalis, gerit. E 
colle feu potius rupe, quae a dextra omni ex 
parte fere confragofa, in admirandam altitu- 
dinem exurgit Caftellum ampliflimum, inftar 
urbiculac, opere munitifrimum, & turribus fre- 
quentiflimum, fubjedlo freto quodammodo 
minatur : Clavem & repagulum Angliag yo- 
cat Mathaeus Parifienfis ; vulgus hominum a 
JuUo Caefare conftrudlum fomniati a Ro- 

manis 



HENTZNER's Travels. 102 

irenience of it's port, which indeed is now 
much de ayed, and it's paflage to PVance, 
than for either it's elegance, or populoufnefs ; 
this paflage the mofl: ufed, and 'the fliortcll:, 
is of thirty miles, which with a favourable 
wind may be run over in five or fix hours, 
time, as we ourfelves experienced ; fome 
reckon it only eighteen to Calais, and to 
Boulogne fixteen Englifh miles, which as 
Ortelius fays in his Theatrum, are longer 
thaii the Italian. 

Here was a church dedicated to St. Martin, 
by Vidlred king of Kent, and a houfe be- 
longing to the Knigh|:s Templars ; of either 
there are now no remains : It is the feat of a 
Suffragan to the Archbifliop of Canterbur}'^, 
who when the Archbifliop is employed upon 
bufmefs of more confequence, manages the 
ordinary affairs, but does not interfere with 
the Archiepifcopal jurifdi6^ion. Upon a hill, 
or rather rock, which on it's right fide is al- 
moft every where a precipice, a very extenfivc 
Caftle rifes to a furprizing height, in fize like 
a little city, extremely well fortified, and 
E e 2 thick 



% 



103 HENTZNERI Itinerarium. 

manis autcm primo conditum, ex lateribus 
illis Britannicis in Sacello, quibus ufi funt in 
fuis fubftra6tionibus, verfimile eft. GulieL Cam" 
den. in Britannia* 

Hie fumto prandio, A N G L I A M reliquimus. 



T^ ^ ^ ^ vP' Tff 

***** 

* * * * 

* * *^ 



HENTZNER's Traveis. 103 

thick fet with towers, and feems to threaten 
the fea beneath : Matthew Paris calls it, the 
door and key of England ; the ordinary people 
have taken it into their heads, that it was built 
by Julius Caefar, it is likely it might by the 
Romans, from thofe Britifli bricks in the 
Chapel, which they made ufe of in their 
foundations : See CamhderCs Britannia. 

After we had dined, we took leave of 
ENGLAND. 



* * * ^ * 

* * * * 

* * * 








LSJVMW^ 

















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