Keel and saddle: a retrospect of forty years of military and naval service

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

KEEL AND SADDLE :

A RETROSPECT

FORTY YEARS OF MILITARY AND
NAVAL SERVICE.

BY

JOSEPH W. REVERE.

BOSTON :
JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY,

(LATK TICKNOR & FIELDS, AND FIELDS, Oscoob, & Co.)
1872.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872;

Bv JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.

Boston '
Stereotyped and Printed by Rand, A very, &• Co.

College
Library

Co tfje fHemort'eg of
COLONEL PAUL JOSEPH REVERE,

(ioth Mass. Infantry,)
KILLED AT GETTYSBURG ;

ASSISTANT SURGEON EDWARD H. R. REVERE,

(zoth Mass. Infantry,)
KILLED AT ANTIETAM ;

BOTH DYING ON THE FIELD OF HONOR IN THK
MOMENT OF VICTORY J

Cfjis Folumr

IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED

BY
THE AUTHOR.

963596

CONTENTS.

KEEL AND SADDLE.
L

PAGE.

Introductory Remarks. — I enter the United-States Navy. — Cruises to the
Pacific, the West Indiea, and Gulf of Mexico. — Florida. — The Semlnole
War. — Osceola.— Major Moniac. — The Forty Thieve*. — Coast of Cuba.
— Piracy. — A Prize.— Treasure-Trove.— A Cyclone and ita Effects. — Dis-
appointment 1

n.

The West Coast of Africa. — A Waif on the High Seas. — The Old Quarter-mas-
ter's Yarn. — " The Volador." — The Chase. — The Capture. — The Sargasso
Sea. — We make Prize of a Slaver. — Her Cargo and Condition, — ATropical
Calm. — A Water Famine. — Are saved by Rum Toddies. — Phlogistic Regi-
men. — A Revolt. — Pandemonium. — Our Deliverance. — Arrival in Port. —
Moral deduced by a Portuguese Trader. — Monrovia. — Swamped on the
Bar. — Adieu to Africa

in

I pass my Examination. — The Frigate "Constitution." — Cruise to the Medi-
terranean. — The Baltic. — Cronstadt. — The Czar incognito. — Festivities. —
St. Petersburg. — The Imperial Family. — Constantine. — At Sea. — A Rus-
sian Deserter appears among our Crew. — The Pole 17

V

Vi CONTENTS.

IV.

PAGE.

Story of the Polish Officer. — Siberia.— The Exiles. — The Chains. — Ra-
tions.— Death and Burial of the Exiles. — The Prussian Allies of Rus-
sia.— Dreadful Privations. — Escapes and Recaptures. — Converts to the
Greek Church. — The Poor Polak.— ie«e-A/iyest<5.— The Mines.— Charity
in Russia. — The Siberian Exile Dead to the World.— Inhumanity and Bes-
tiality of the Government. — Maxim of the Imperial Government. — Russian
Servility. — End of the Story of the Polish Officer 21

V.

Rome. — Gregory XVI. — An Interview with Letltia Ramollno. — Art Treas-
ures. — The Coliseum. — Holy Stones. — A Practical Officer. — Sicily. — An-
ecdote of Calabrian Brigands. — The English Frigate " Barham." — English-
men fixing the Price of their own Ransom. — Tariff for Rogues and for Honest
Men. — The Adriatic and the Ionian Islands. — Athens. — King Otho. — A
Patent Yankee Exterminator, the Grandfather of the Mitrailleuse. — Narrow
Escape from Regicide. — Sauve qui peut 28

VL

Levantine Society.— Smyrna. — The Casino— The Dardanelles. — Constanti-
nople. — Sultan Mahmoud — His Skill in Archery.— The ^EgeanSea. — A
Heavy Storm. — Narrow Escape from Shipwreck. — Asia Minor. — Beyrout.
— Sidon. — A Visit to and Interview with Lady Hester Stanhope. — A Mid-
night Stance with her Ladyship. — Her Theological System of Belief. — Sir
John Moore. — Her Famous Mares. — Return on Board 85

VII.

St. Jean d'Acre. — Ibrahim Pacha. — His Appearance. — Jaffa. — Jerusalem.

— The Dead Sea. — The Jordan. — Arab Sentiment. — Alexandria. — Re-
ception by Mahomet All, Pacha of Egypt. — Emir Bey. — His Leap from
the Walls of the Citadel of Cairo. — Kismet. — Portugal. — Spain. — Journey
with Gypsies. — Pedrecillo. — The Gitanos. — The Order of March. — Evora.

— Estremoz. — Elvas. — Arrival at Badajos. — Travelling on Horseback. —
The Spanish Arrieros 45

VIII.

Merida, the Spanish Rome. — Roman Bridge built by Trajan. — Its Magnifi-
cent and Stupendous Remains.— The Lake of Proserpine. — The Ruined
Aqueducts. — The Circus Maxlmus. — The Forum. — The Reservoirs. — Es-

CONTENTS. vii

PAGE.

tremadnra. — Its Porcine Products. — The Hams of Montanches. — On the
Road. — The Confessional of St. Peter. — Robbers. — The Diligence gone
through by them. — An Irate British Subject. — We have it in our Power to
relieve the Distressed. — Medellin and Trujillo, the Birthplaces of Pizarro
and Cortes. — Caceres. — Romantic Ride. — Arrival at Alcantara. — The Fa-
mous Bridge. — Inscription 63

IX.

The Military Orders of Chivalry. — Peculiarity of the Catholic Church. — The
Jesuits. — Our Journey. — Corla. — Montanches — Placencia. — A Lovely
Maiden. — Beautiful Country. — Tuste, and the Convent of San Geronimo,
the Last Retreat of Charles V. — Farewell to Estremadura .... 69

X.

The Kingdom of Toledo. — Talavera. — Toledo. — Arrival at Madrid. —The
Royal Palace. — The Armory. — Pictures. — The Unwholesome Climate of
the Capital of Spain. — The Museo. — Society. — Tertulias. — The Puerta del
Bol. — I seek a Guide. — An Aficinado. — Journey Northwards. — The Es>
corial. — A Chateau en Espagne. — La Granja. — The Castle in the Air. —
Penalard. — Queen Christina. — Munoz. — Blasco's Account of their Amours
and Management of the King, Ferdinand VII. — Away with Melancholy. — *
Segovia. — The Alcazar 08

XL

Col. Reyes of the Spanish Army.— The Road. — Valladolld. — Simancas. —
Adventure of Manuel Blanco. — His Imprisonment and Release. — His
Account of the Little Fiasco at the Hotel. — We set forth again. — Aranda
del Duero. — Arrive at Peoaranda. — The Zuniga Family. — Old Castle.—
Blasco grows Sentimental 74

XIL

Story of the Fair Inez. — A Rou£ of the Middle Ages. — His Prodigality and
Profligacy. — TheAbbot's Counsel. — Don Baltazar joins the Crusade.— He
is highly successful In a Military Point of View. — His Piety. — Reform. —
Return Home. — Thrift. — Feudal Justice. — Clear Conscience. — Prosper-
ity.— Gypsies. — Their Impiety and Sacrilege. — The Ghana. — Imprison
ment illy endured.— A Convert. — The Comadre.— The Old Count smitten.
— The Golden Chain 80

xin.

Continuation of the Story of the Fair Inez. — Determination of the Count of
Miranda. — July wedded to December. — Description of the Fair Inez. —

viii CONTENTS.

PAGE.

Her Beauty. — Her Spirits. — Her Innocence. — An Old Man's Darling. —
The Green-eyed Monster. — The Pages. — The Seignorial Throne. — Peril of
the Page. — His Departure. — Its Consequences. — Sudden Return of the
Page Damiano de Zufiiga. — End of the Story of the Fair Inez. — Lerma . 86

XIV.

Burgos.— The Cathedral. — The Castle. — Las Huelgas. — Pilgrimage to the
Tomb of the Cid. — Miraflores. — The Mausoleum of the Parents of Isabel the

Catholic. — San Pedro de Cardefia. — Bavieca Inscription. — Tombs of the

Cid, his Wife Ximena, and their Two Daughters. — The Start from Burgos.
— Overtake a Carlist Expedition. — Dona Florencia. — A Brave Lady. — The
Soldiers of Don Carlos. — Arrival before Logrono. — The Skirmish. — The
Attack. — Entrance into the Town. — A Night Combat. — Daylight. — Martin
Zurbano. — A Military Execution. — Shocking Episode of the Civil War. —
Subsequent Fate of Zurbano. — Disappearance of Blasco. — He re-appears.
— We again take the Road. — The Pyrenees. — Pamplona. — Journey to
Paris. — Exploit of Blasco. — Be>anger. — An Interview with the Great
Chansonnier. — Return to Spain. — Granada. — Pepe Montes, the Famous
Bull-Fighter. — His Adventure in the Plaza do Torus of Granada. — Indig-
nant Retreat thence 06

XV.

Historical Retrospect. — Causes of the Decline of the Spanish Monarchy. — The
Successors of Charles V. — Effect of the Expulsion of the Moors. — Of the
Discovery of the Americas. — The Laws of the Mesta. — Incredible Folly of
Similar Laws. — Natural Result. — Paralyzation of Industrial Pursuits. —
Contempt for every Axiom of Political Economy. — Destruction of the Na-
tional Prosperity — Unreasonable Reverence for the Kingly Power. — De-
generation.— Sketch of Ferdinand VII. — Christina. — Revocation of the
Salic Law. — Death of Ferdinand. — Revolt of Don Carlos and Breaking-Out
of the Civil War.— Espauolismo the Curse of Spain 113

XVI.

Visit to Algiers.— Arab Sentiment.— Abd-el-Kader. — French Soldiers. — The
Casbah.— Expedition to Blidah. — Skirmish with the Kabyles. — The
Zephyrs. — Capt. Eylau. — Arrival on the Field of the Spahis. — Victory.
— An Oriental Frenchman. — I meet Manuel Blasco. — Blidah. — End of
Poor Blasco in Matrimony 122

XVII.

Return Home. — Voyage of Circumnavigation. — Madeira. — Zanzibar. — The
Imam of Muscat. — The Eunuch Ahmed.— A Valorous Vizier.— A Coup-

CONTENTS. ix

PAGE.

de Main, and Capture of Mombas. — A Forlorn Hope. — Allocution of the
Imam. — Success. — The Red Sea. — Muscat. — Bombay. — March of Lord
Keane's Army. — Splendid Military Spectacle. — Composition of an Indian
Army. — Sumatra. — War with Malay Pirates. — Sickness among our Crew.
Singapore. — China — We pass through the Bashee Passage into the South
Sea. — Arrival at Boston. — In the West Indies again. — I experience a Great
Sea Bore. — Tragic Fate of "The Clio" 132

XVIII.

Cruise to the Pacific In 1845. — My Ship Joins the Squadron of Com. Bloat at
Mazatlan. — The Details of this Cruise previously published in " A Tour of
Duty in the Pacific." — I here continue this Work as a Sequel to that One. —
Taking Possession of the Californias, and hoisting the Flag of the United
States. — Her Majesty's Ship " Cornwallis," Admiral Sir Michael Seymour,
is forestalled by our Action. — Com. Stockton. — Gen. Kearny. — Kit Car-
son.— Expedition to recover the Pueblo de Los Angeles. — Passage of the
River of San Gabriel. — Combat of La Mesa. — Cavalry Charges of the Mexi-
cans.— They make no Impression on our Square. — Their Retreat. — En-
trance into Los Angeles. — Capture of San Jose1, Lower California, and
Guaymas. — Occupation of Mazatlan. — Return to Boston 143

XIX.

Appointment as Timber-Agent for the United States in California. — Discovery
of Gold. — Hush for the Mines. — I sail for the Isthmus. — Arrival at Cha-
gres. — Gold-Seekers. — Chocolate. — IU Uses for the Traveller. — Baron
Steinbergen. — Our Embargo at Gorgona. — I take the Isthmus-Fever. —
Start for Panama. — Meet with a Good Woman. — Meet a Friend in the
Street. — I go to his House and am cared for. — I recover, and embark for
San Francisco. —Change wrought in that City. — Singular State of Society.
— I meet an Old Shipmate. — His Remarkable Hospitality. — Anecdote of
the Maid of Mrs. Gen. Smith .151

XX.

San Geronimo. — Account of my Rancbo. — Impossibility of engaging in any
Agricultural Pursuit. — I resolve to visit the Placer. — Arrival at the Dry
Diggings. — State of the Labor Market. — Prospecting. — Sales of Cattle. —
Commercial Ventures. — Successful Operations. — Return to San Geronimo.
— Visit to San Francisco. — Emigrants from Abroad. — Act as Pilot for the
Sacramento. — The Peruvian Company of Miners. — Coca, its Use by
them. — Pedro Beltran. — Account of a Coquero 158

xii CONTENTS.

• PAGE.

Convert. — An Unseen Witness — Terrible Scene in the Cemetery of San
Juan. — Indian Superstition. — Father Ipolito explains away the Mystery.
—D&ioument of the Story of the Maid of the Inn 226

XXX.

Expedition to Morelia. — The March. — The Diana. — Qnajimalpa. — Toluca. —
Hacienda de laOabla. — A Magnificent Property. — Taximaroa. — Querenda-
ro. — Our Cavalry engaged. — Ambush in the Defile of Los Trojis de An-
gangueo. — A Novel Light- Artillery Manoeuvre. — The Column saved by
Prompt Action of the Artillery. — Mexican Horses and Riders — Patzcuaro.

— SUCCORS of the Expedition. — Return to the Capital. — Place Hunters. — The
Hotel de Iturbide. — A Street Acquaintance. — A Promenade. — Agreeable
Impressions. — An Old Schoolmate. — A Rival. — Mutual Confidences. —
The Alameda. — Discontent of Valdes. — He moralizes. — The Old Cavalier.

— Horsemanship a la Haute Ecole. — Odious Comparisons .... 232

XXXI.

The Chase after the Hat. — Change in the Demeanor of Valdes. — A Free
Young Lady. — A Siren. — A Recognition. — A Rebuff. — Counter Recogni-
tion.— Courtesans. — Dreams. — Morning Salutations. — Visit to the Minis-
ter of the Interior. — Unexpected Rencontre. — His Excellency is cool to-
wards Antonio 240

XXXII.

A Critical Situation. — Polite Dismissal. — Valdes. — Rapid Exit . — Reflections
in the Street. — Philosophic Determination. — A Pleasant Dinner. — Mono-
logue upon Wine. — Generosity. — The Mistaken Door. — Post Bacchum
Venus. — Finding an Ally. — Note from the Minister. — The Breakfast. —
Moral, and End of the Story of Don Antonio Palacios 246

XXXIII.

I leave the Mexican Army. — Preparations to return to the United States. —
Leave the City by Diligence. — My Travelling Companions. — Perote. —
Robbers.— A Shot Right and Left with Both Barrels. — Pusillanimity. — Ar-
rival at Vera Cruz, and, after, at New Orleans. — Proceed up the Missis-
sippi. — Lieut. Thomas J. Jackson , United-States Army. — Astrology. — Jack-
son's Singular Opinions. — Strange Prediction. — His Enthusiastic Charac-
ter . . . 252

CONTENTS. xiii

XXXIV.

PAGE.

Italy. — Strasbnrg.— The Russian Colonel. — The Old French Major's Story.
- Military Discipline. — The Army of the Rhine of 1815. — Gen. Rapp.—
A Military Revolt. — Causes of the Mutiny. — Dalhousle. — The Enemy
still held in Check. — Discipline preserved in an Army in Revolt. — Success
of the Mutineers. — Their Return to Obedience. — End of the Revolt —A
Visit to the Cantiniere of the Fourth of the Line, the Doyenne of the French
Cantinieres 25S

XXXV.

Paris. — Major Philip Kearny. — His Opinions on the Approaching War of the
Rebellion. — Adieux and Assurances. — Breaking-Out of Hostilities. — Su in-
ter.— Great Movement among the People of the North. — Imbecility of the
Administration. — Bull Run. — Worthlessness of the Militia.— The People
outrun the Government. — I again enter the Service. — Am appointed
Colonel of the Seventh New-Jersey Infantry. — Recruits in Plenty. — Arrival
In Washington. — Condition of the Army. — Gen. McClellan. — Organiza-
tion.— IfcClellan's Labors. — Ills Success 209

PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

THE LIEUTENANT'S STORY 283

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY 293

t

THE MAJOR'S STORY 316

THE GENERAL'S STORY 342

MONTE; OR, THE ROBBERS 355

KEEL AND SADDLE.

i.

T^HE simple record of the career of almost any person,
however humble, furnishes some useful lessons, from
which may be derived either guidance or warning ; and the
story of an active life full of vicissitudes and strange ex-
periences, lacking though it may the graces of rhetoric and
the riches of scholarship, can hardly fail to point some profit-
able moral to the few, while it may possibly entertain the
many.

These are the considerations which have led me to write the
following pages at a time of life when my career may be re-
garded as closed, and leisure has been found to condense the
diaries and memoranda I have always been in the habit of
keeping.

Following the bent of an early predilection for foreign travel,
I entered the United-States navy at the age of fourteen years,
as a midshipman ; and, after a short term spent at the Naval
School at the New- York Navy Yard, I sailed on my first cruise
to the Pacific Ocean on board the frigate " Guerriere," bear-
ing the pennant of Com. Charles C. B. Thompson, in the
summer of the year 1828.

l i

2 . KEEL AND SADDLE.

For three years I served in the Pacific squadron, and was
duly initiated into the tough discipline then in vogue in our
navy, the rigorous practice of which had originated during
the war of 1812.

Upon my return I enjoyed but a short respite, and in a few
months found myself on board a corvette on the West-India
station ; and, having been transferred to the schooner " Flirt "
and other vessels, was finally attached to what was called the
" mosquito fleet," — a flotilla of small vessels and boats co-
operating with the army in Florida.

Cruising in the Everglades in a barge, exposed to the
weather for weeks, I found decidedly rough : but, though the
Seminole War was in progress, no encounters with the enemy
occurred to mitigate the tedium of my situation ; for except-
ing a few prisoners I saw at Tampa, including the celebrated
Osceola, I never beheld an Indian.

After vain efforts to " surprise " our wily foe, the cruise at
last ended, having. been signalized by the loss of one of our men
from fever induced by mosquito-bites, and the disabling of
several others from the same cause; and with the warlike
trophies of one small squaw captured at a deserted camp, and
a keg of powder, we returned to St. Augustine.

Here we found Gen. Jesup's army about to march to the
Indian country ; and the quaint little Spanish town was alive
with excitement over the military preparations.

As I stood one morning admiring a fine regiment of Creek
Indians, who were being mustered into the service of the
United States, I was suddenly seized by the shoulders from
behind, and saluted with the characteristic ejaculation, —
" Ugh ! " Turning instantly, I found myself in the embrace
of a tall Indian, naked except for his breech-cloth and red-
cloth leggings, his head shaved clean save the chivalrous
scalp-lock; while the thick war-paint prevented me from rec-
ognizing his dusky visage. The warrior proved to be Moniac,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 3

a young Creek chief, who had been educated at the Military
Academy at West Point, with whom I had been intimately
acquainted in New York, and who was now a major of the
Creek regiment. Although he had been accustomed for four
years to the drill and discipline of West Point, had graduated
with honor at that institution, had participated in the pleasures,
and perhaps partaken of some of the pleasant vices, of civi-
lization, Moniac, upon returning to his tribe, had declined ac-
cepting a commission tendered him as an officer of the army,
and had chosen to resume all the apparent hardships and perils
of savage life.

Perhaps he was right : but I never knew ; for a few weeks
afterwards, while gallantly leading his battalion, he was killed
by his relatives (the Seminoles are descended from the Creeks)
at the battle of Okeechobee.

Leaving St. Augustine for Tampa and Pensacola, I was
ordered to Key West from the latter place, to take command
of a large felucca'rigged boat, pulling forty oars, and armed
with a long twelve-pounder ; and received instructions to cruise
in the Old Bahama Channel, and endeavor to capture a noted
pirate named Benavides. Piracy was at that time a regularly-
organized business in the West Indies ; the capital being sup-
plied by persons in Cuba and the United States, and the cut-
throats by the " faithful isle." It was very difficult to secure the
trial and conviction of the corsairs in Havana, however evident
their guilt ; for the Spanish authorities were notoriously inter-
ested in the profits of their nefarious calling. It is well
known, that, not long before the time I am writing of, Com.
David Porter was tried by a court-martial for landing at
Foxardo to capture some of these gentlemanly marauders, — a
rebuke which led to his leaving the profession of which he was
so distinguished an ornament.

For a week or two we saw nothing on our new cruising-
ground except a few small merchant-vessels, and heard of no

4 KEEL AND SADDLE.

pirates, until one evening a felucca appeared, crossing from
Cayo Romano to Cuba. We immediately gave chase, but lost
sight of her at nightfall. At early daylight she was again
seen under the land of Cuba, but suddenly disappeared up one
of those estuaries which inlace the low ground of the coast.
Making our way into the one we supposed she had entered,
we pursued our unseen but hoped-for prize up its sinuous
course, the view being limited by the banks of the estuary,
which were covered by a mangrove thicket, growing down
into the water, as is the habit of this plant. I landed, how-
ever, at the entrance for a few moments, in order to put on
shore a couple of men provided with means to signal to us if
necessary.

After rowing in this way for about ten or fifteen miles, we
came suddenly, at a turn of the estuary, upon a camp, and a
bark-rigged vessel lying at a rude pier. Here we landed,
with the usual precautions against surprise, and found the
ship to be the French bark " Amedee " of Bordeaux, evi-
dently not long since captured by pirates. Her cargo had
been nearly all removed from the vessel, and probably taken
in lighters to Havana or Matanzas ; but the evidences of a
hurried " breaking bulk " were everywhere to be seen. The
sails of the bark had been burned (for we found the incom-
bustible parts), the rudder unshipped, and both anchors let
go ; so that it would have been impossible to remove her from
the place. Many knick-knacks, which apparently did not
suit the taste of the pirates, lay about, the embarcadero being
strewn with various " articles de Paris." The cabin furnished
evidence that it had been tenanted by passengers of both
sexes ; and it was fearful to think of what had probably been
their fate, although we met with no positive proofs that mur-
der had been done.

In the afternoon I wished to return to the sea, but found
that some of my men had straggled away into the country :

KEEL AND SADDLE. 5

so, leaving the galley in charge of a petty officer, I started
with a small party to hunt them up, ascending the hills
which rose above the landing-place to a considerable height.
Our search was vain, however : we saw no traces of the strag-
glers ; and, after a walk of about two miles along the crest, we
returned towards the pirates' camp down a ravine, in the hol-
low of which ran a brawling rivulet.

The sides of the ravine were precipitous, and covered with
huge bowlders, while the dense and almost impenetrable
verdure of the tropics clothed its surface. I tried to cover as
much ground as possible with my men, in order to explore the
country as thoroughly as we could ; for I feared my lost ones
had stupefied themselves with liquor obtained from the French
bark. Suddenly one of my scouts high up the bank of the
ravine shouted to us to ascend ; and, thinking he had tidings
of the runaways, we scrambled up to his elevated position.
I found him at the entrance of a hole, or cave, which was
partially concealed by a bowlder of great size, the ground
around it bearing the marks of footprints, with staves and
iron spikes scattered about. Bringing my little band to-
gether, I delegated a young and agile foretopman to enter the
hole first ; which he did, shoving his carbine before him as he
went in, and disappeared from our sight into the bowels of
the earth. We prepared to follow : but the first who entered
met the second one returning ; and, as neither could pass the
other in the narrow entrance, we hauled the last man out
by the legs. The foretopman reported that he had passed
into a large chamber inside ; but that, owing to the darkness,
he could say nothing as to its size or contents.

Determined to prosecute the search, I improvised tapers
made of the torn leaves of a book I had in my pocket ; and,
thus equipped, we crawled in. At about twenty paces from
the entrance we found ourselves in a circular chamber, evi-
dently an excavation, some fifteen feet in diameter. Our
1*

6 KEEL AND SADDLE.

means of illumination being scanty, we had not time to ex-
amine the contents of some kegs and barrels, which, together
with some old rusty muskets and cutlasses, and other objects
pertaining to seafaring men, composed the contents of the
room.

As we were about to withdraw, one old tar, determined not
to go without carrying away some memento of the place,
rolled out a keg before him, thinking, doubtless, it contained
a supply of liquor; but which, being upset, gave forth an
ominous rattling sound, that indicated something more sub-
stantial. We rolled the keg down to the camp, which I de-
sired to reach before the approaching sunset ; after which, in
the tropics, there is no twilight. I found, upon my arrival,
that our stragglers had returned, my fears having been un-
founded as to their drinking ; for the pirates had evidently
consumed, or effectually concealed, all liquors.

Sentinels having been placed around the camp, we went to
sleep after supper, pleased with visions of untold wealth to
be secured in the morning at the cave, which we imagined
must contain the fabulous treasures of Aladdin ; for the keg
we had brought with us was filled with newly-minted Spanish
dollars. Shortly after midnight my dreams were inter-
rupted by a sentinel, who reported that a fire was burning
brightly at the entrance to the estuary. As this was the sig-
nal agreed upon in case our presence was required, I had no
alternative but to start at once ; and we manned our row-
galley, and sped down the creek as fast as forty pairs of vigor-
ous arms could propel us. The day was breaking as we
arrived at our destination ready and eager for action j for we
thought it probable that the pirates were returning to their
haunt, which was as secure a puerto escondido for those buc-
caneers— "friends to the sea, and enemies to all who sail on
it " — as could be found in Cuba.

My lookout men reported having seen a light at sea, which

KEEL AND SADDLE. 7

we soon saw, and, boarding the vessel, found her to be His Maj-
esty's schooner " Monkey " on a cruise ; and her commander
handed me a despatch from the commander of the United-States
schooner "Grampus,'' directing me to join him at Havana as
soon after I received it as possible. Reluctant to abandon our
promising investigations, we squared away the long yards of the
felucca before the trade-wind, and next morning rounded the
Moro Castle, ensign and pennant flying, and anchored near
" The Grampus." The secret of our discovery was religiously
kept, and the keg of dollars divided amongst the crew, each
receiving about fifty dollars ; and we cheered each other by
the prospect of soon returning to the cache, and enriching
ourselves with the pirates' hoarded treasure.

A few days after our arrival, one of those terrible cyclones
which periodically devastate the West Indies came on; and
it seemed as if the city would be torn down by the mere
power of the wind. Several vessels were destroyed by being
dashed violently against the wharves at Regla ; houses were
unroofed ; the belfry of a church of great solidity was blown
down, the heavy bell being hurled to the distance of several
squares from the building. Ponderous cannon, en barbette
on the walls of the Cabana, were blown into the sea, and
many lives were lost. The damage to vessels at sea was im-
mense ; and the hurricane was long afterwards remembered
and chronicled as the heaviest known for years. In the
interior, plantations were ruined in a single night ; millions
of dollars worth of crops destroyed ; houses blown down ;
machinery wrecked; and even ancient landmarks either
removed altogether, or transported to incredible distances, by
the wind.

" The Grampus " and " The Forty Thieves " safely rode out
this tremendous gale ; and, after its fury had abated, our crews
were instrumental in saving much property and some lives in
the harbor.

8 KEEL AND SADDLE.

About a week after this catastrophe, the weather becoming
settled, and the trade-winds having resumed their usual direc-
tion, we started again for our former cruising-ground, and soon
reached the embarcadero, near the underground treasury. On
landing, we found everywhere marks of the passage of the
hurricane. The French bark had been completely torn to
pieces, as if the centre of the cyclone had passed over her.
A heavy anchor which was upon her deck at the time of our
first visit, and her capstan, lay far up the hillside, and were
embedded in the earth as if they had been shot from guns.
The rude sheds which had sheltered the pirates were tossed
about like paper ; the whole landing-place had been deluged
with water; and enormous rocks from above cumbered the
ground.

With doubting steps, and hearts saddened by the sight of
such terrible havoc, we took our way to the cave; but the
fair face of Nature seemed to have undergone an all-pervading
change. In places where, on our first visit, there were levels,
now were hollows, or mounds of earth and rock ; and where
mounds had once been was now level ground.

The entrance to the cave, the object of so many hopes and
fears, had disappeared; and although we searched for two
whole days with all our force, and brought all our ingenuity
to bear, we could not discover it. At my previous visit I had
hurriedly taken the cross-bearings of the entrance by a couple
of lofty ceiba-trees on the opposite side of the ravine ; but
these also had been levelled with the earth ; and the huge rock
which had sentinelled the entrance to the cave had been
hurled from its lofty place, and doubtless lay undistinguished
from others in the bed of the rivulet. Every evidence of the
existence of the cave had been obliterated ; and we returned
to our boat as poor as we came.

II.

MY next cruise was to the coast of Africa ; and most
monotonous it was. We spent our time almost en-
tirely on board ship without society, at sea almost constantly,
and not daring to pass even one night on shore in that pes-
tiferous atmosphere. Occasionally a chase of some slavers
would vary the usual routine of duty, and afford some little
excitement : hut, for the most part, we were thrown entirely
on our own resources ; and those inclined to such employ-
ments had ample time for study and improvement. The sev-
eral ports we visited gave our officers little pleasure or profit;
and we all agreed that " the coast " was another Pandemonium
• on a very limited scale. At sea we alternately were drenched
with the heavy equatorial rains, and scorched by the fierce
tropical sun ; and the boat service in the rivers was simply
detestable.

One day, while cruising, I got leave to lower a boat in
order to pick up specimens of the nautilus, which are very
large and handsome in some parts of what is called by mariners
the Sargasso Sea. Quite absorbed in my search, I went some
miles from the ship, which lay becalmed " like a painted ship
upon a painted ocean ; " and suddenly espied a large object
rising and falling on the long swell. It proved to be a cask
covered with barnacles, and, as was evidenced by the long sea-
weed that trailed from it as we lifted it into the cutter, had
been a long time in the water. It turned out to be a forty-

9

10 KEEL AND SADDLE.

gallon cask of old Santa-Cruz rum, of fine taste and flavor,
evidently acquired in its long voyages. On its head were
branded some almost illegible characters, among which could
be made out the word " Volador." That night I had the
middle watch ; and, as the ship went easily along under the
influence of a light breeze, the old quartermaster at the "con"
spun me the following yarn : —

" It seems to me, sir, that I have sailed before to-day with
that cask which you picked up with such remarkable luck.
[I suppose that if I had found a diamond as large as the Koh-
i-noor, it would not have possessed such value as the cask
had in the old tar's estimation.] Just two years ago I was
returning to the West Indies from this coast in a clipper
schooner, a slaver. We were bound to a port on the south
side of Cuba, and had approached the Sail-rock Passage, cal-
culating the handsome profits we should reap from our cargo
of blackbirds, when we fell in with a British man-of-war,
which immediately gave chase.

" Our vessel was very fast ; and we flew along before a fresh
trade-wind, with every rag set that would draw ; and for sev-
eral hours we seemed to beat His Majesty's cruiser: but
towards evening our captain took it into his head to shorten
sail, haul up on the starboard tack, and try to gain the shelter
of the land under San Domingo, when we might evade our
pursuer. This ruse is not unusual with slavers, and might
have succeeded : but, after an anxious night, the dawn showed
us that our manoeuvre had been anticipated by the commander
of the war-brig ; for he was in shore of us, and not far off.
That he was alert was very apparent ; for, although under easy
sail when we first saw him, his royals and steering-sails were
instantly set, his courses dropped, and his course altered to a
point converging towards our own, so as to close ; and soon a
puff of white smoke from his bow-gun accompanied the rise of
the red-cross flag to his main peak. The chase lasted until

KEEL AND SADDLE. 11

two, P.M., with little advantage to either side ; but we man-
aged to keep out of range of his guns, although we could see
that he was steadily gaining on us.

" His best point of sailing was ( going free,' while ours was
' close hauled : ' so we took in the steering-sails, and attempted
to bring the schooner by the wind. The evolution failed ; and
we had neared him by attempting it, and lost ground also, as
every attempt to ' luff ' was met by a lee helm on board the
brig, while his occasional shots came nearer and nearer. We
started our water, slacked up the lanyards of the standing rig-
ging, knocked the wedges out of the partners to give the
masts play, and finally sawed several deck-beams in twain ;
but nothing availed us. We then began to lighten the
schooner, first throwing over the deck-load and all the spare
spars and boats ; and finally all the provisions, even the cabin-
stores, including, I believe, that precious cask you fell in with
to-day, for I had, on rare occasions, tasted its contents by
especial favor. But our efforts were all useless ; and the head
of our foremast having been shot away, and carried with it the
jib-boom and head-sails, and the schooner almost reduced to
a wreck, we were taken by the cruiser, and carried into Port
Royal, Jamaica, where the vessel was condemned, and the
crew set adrift. I shipped in a vessel bound to New York,
being without money or even clothes; and thus ended my
cruise in the saucy ' Volador ' (' Flying-Fish ' )."

Eight bells struck as the old quartermaster finished his
yarn ; and, having been relieved, I invited the old man down
to my room to taste again the contents of that cask " he had
sailed with before." I have no doubt it was the same, and
that the cask had followed the current westward until it fell
in with the Gulf stream, which carried it eastward again, and,
passing by the shores of Europe, deposited it in that great
receptacle of seaweed and other waifs, the Sargasso Sea, where
we found it.

12 KEEL AND SADDLE.

I believe that some day this enormous deposit of weed will
be made available for agriculture, as it is especially rich in
soda and the phosphates, and easily collected ; while, being on
the high seas, no nation can claim the exclusive privilege of
gathering and shipping it.

Off the mouth of the Bonny we gave chase to a slaver which
incautiously hoisted American colors, thinking our ship an
English cruiser ; and this made him a good prize under exist-
ing treaties. I was directed to take her into port after the
capture, and boarded her with a boat's crew of sixteen men ;
while the corvette left us, and stood away for the northward.

The slaver was a schooner of about a hundred and fifty
tons burden ; and in this little vessel weA confined over three
hundred slaves, in a condition to which no description could
do justice.

The officers and crew had been sent on board the corvette ;
and here we were left to muse on the comforting assurance of
the Portuguese captain, that his "cargo" were ferocious and
untamed savages from the interior of Africa, who, so far from
appreciating our philanthropic efforts to save them from slavery,
would inevitably massacre us all in case they got possession
of the vessel, not knowing the difference between one set of
white masters and another. They were all under hatches cov-
ered with strong gratings ; and looking down upon them from
deck seemed like looking into a certain place, which may be
hotter, but not more uncomfortable. The slaves were thus
divided in this malebolge: the main hold contained all the
adults of the male sex, shackled by the leg to long bars run-
ning fore and aft in rows ; and the women were in the steerage
abaft them, unshackled, but separated from the males by a
strong bulk-head.

The tierces of rice and water-casks were in the fore hold ; and
there were others under the steerage, with a few water-casks
on duck; on which, abaft the foremast, were the slave-coppers

KEEL AND SADDLE. 13

for cooking, set in brick. On taking possession, I stationed
sentinels at the hatchways, with orders to permit but two per-
sons to come on deck at once, through an aperture in the
grating ; took every possible precaution to guard against a rush
from below ; and organized such other measures against sur-
prise as seemed necessary.

A pretty fresh sea-breeze was blowing, and I had little doubt
of getting into port on the next morning ; for the low land was
already in sight, and the wind seemed steady.

At nightfall, however, the breeze gradually died away, and
at midnight had ceased entirely; while the absence of the
usual land-breeze indicated that one of those calms common
to the African coast, and which sometimes last for ten days or
a fortnight, had come upon us.

I had brought in the boat only rations for my men for two
days, and no water save that in the boat's breaker, — about
sixteen gallons ; and now my men reported that there was but
a forty-eight hours' supply of water left in the casks below.

The rascally slaver's crew had started some of the casks
before leaving the vessel. What was to be done in case the
calm lasted? True, we could get ashore in our boat; but
then we should have to abandon the prize and our " liberated"
captives. This was not to be thought of : so I went to the
main hatchway, and took a look below. None of us could under-
stand a word the slaves uttered: indeed, they appeared hardly
to possess the organ of speech, so deeply guttural and barba-
rous was their uncouth dialect, — more like the chattering of
baboons than any human jargon. Many of them were fine
athletic figures, curiously tattooed ; and some had their teeth
filed to a point, this serrated jaw giving them a most demoniac
aspect when they grinned. As to intelligence, they evidently
knew not the difference between an American gentleman and
a Portuguese blackguard; and the change of masters they
regarded with supreme indifference.
a

14 KEEL AND SADDLE.

The first day passed without a breath of air. We lay upon
deck under the awning, trying to keep cool, and sheltered from
the burning sun ; the vessel swaying idly on the long ocean-
swell, with her sails flapping, and no sound to be heard save
a groan from some block aloft, or the jaws of the gaffs as they
swung around the masts. The second day passed in the same
way ; two slaves being still permitted on deck at a time, and our
seamen walking about, and whistling for a breeze. On the
third day our water which was on deck gave out ; and, going
below, we found that the slaves had got at the only remaining
cask there, and had emptied it also.

Some rain fell, however, on this day ; and we caught about
ten gallons, which I carefully placed under guard for my
own men. Several waterspouts formed in our neighborhood,
threatening to deluge us with more water than we needed;
thus adding a new and sombre feature to the situation.

At the end of the twenty-four hours we had no water left,
and the slaves grew clamorous, and reasonably too ; for thirst
is the most terrible punishment one can suffer in that heated
atmosphere, amid the reflections from the glassy sea. There
was no alternative, however, but to continue to keep them be-
low ; for our lives depended on retaining them in subjection.
Our provisions had been consumed ; and we were compelled to
eat the slave-rice, cooked with salt water, which fearfully in-
creased our thirst. Under the cabin-floor, in the run, I had
discovered a half-puncheon of rum and a box of muscovado
sugar ; which prizes had been carefully watched to prevent
my men from intoxicating themselves. I now determined to
try the spirit, as the poor fellows must keep up their animal
vigor in order to perform their duty : so I detailed a trusty
hand to mix toddies, and gave each man a drink every two
hours.

This diet — phlogistic, I suppose, it must be termed — ap-
peared to afford nourishment to the men; and indeed they

KEEL AND SADDLE. 15

soon looked eagerly for grog-time. We speared a dolphin on
the fifth day, which afforded us all a hearty meal ; our satis-
faction being increased by the unexpected discovery of a cask
of water.

The sailors by unanimous consent served it out to the
slaves, retaining none for themselves ; toddies, they said, being
quite sufficient for them. The fifth day passed uneventfully,
and the sixth brought no promise of a breeze : we found, too,
that the vessel had drifted nearer the land ; and with a glass
I could see the cocoa-palm trees, and the surf breaking on the
beach.

About two in the afternoon, while taking a nap on deck, I
was aroused by a tumult in the hold ; and, running forward,
found that the bulk-head between the men and women had
been broken down. Some of the slaves had slipped their irons ;
and all were mixed up in dire confusion, yelling, screaming,
and fighting like demons. They had conspired to break down
the bulk-head ; and, having got access to the rum, had just
commenced an orgy, which transformed them into incarnate
fiends.

We hastily recovered possession of the steerage and cabin,
and removed the rum to the deck ; sent a strong guard below
with cutlasses and pistols, which soon restored order; and,
having separated the sexes again, replaced the bulk-head.

The fight had lasted about half an hour, and several slaves
had been killed, whose bodies were brought on deck, and
launched overboard. We then drenched all the blacks with
bucketfuls of salt water, which seemed to assuage their thirst
in some degree. On the seventh day the sun rose clear and
calm as usual, but in half an hour retired into a dense cloud ;
and then I knew that our deliverance was at hand. So it
proved, for a fine land-breeze sprang up, succeeded, by a glorious
sea-breeze ; and we sailed up to our anchorage in fine style.
On landing, I proceeded to the residence of the consul, who
took charge of the schooner and her lading.

16 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Although our troubles were over, those of the blacks were
not; for said a Portuguese trader to me, "What for you
Yankees take so much trouble about these niggers ? They
no better off than they were before. Suppose they no go to
the West Indies to work, then they get eaten up here in Afri-
ca;" meaning that all the efforts of our philanthropic gov-
ernment do not alleviate the condition of the native African.
While on the coast, I had occasion to see that these efforts are
generally made in the wrong direction ; and all of them avail
nothing toward preventing evil. In my opinion, extensive
colonization is the only practical mode of benefiting "be-
nighted Africa."

At last we hove to off Cape Mesurado for the last time before
leaving the coast. I went on shore to make arrangements for
the homeward voyage ; but was not destined to escape entirely
from this accursed place, as we were swamped on the bar in
returning to the ship in a large heavily-laden cutter.

There were twenty persons in the cutter altogether ; and,
finding myself in the water in a heavy surf, my first impulse
was to seize an oar which floated near me. My situation was
still full of peril ; for all around I could see the dorsal fins of
huge sharks, always cruising in these localities, gliding omi-
nously through the water, and often quite close to me : but I
struck out boldly, and made all the noise I could without
exhausting myself, until boats from the landing-place at
Monrovia came to our assistance. Our danger seemed an age
in duration ; but, in fact, we had been only three-quarters of
an hour in the water. Only fourteen persons, including my-
self, were saved from drowning and the sharks.

III.

IN 1832, having passed my examination for lieutenant, I
sailed in the frigate " Constitution " for France ; whence we
brought home Mr. Livingston, our minister to the court of
Louis Philippe, who had successfully negotiated a treaty with
the French Government, allowing our spoliation claims under
the Berlin and Milan decrees. We went to sea again immedi-
ately, bound for the Mediterranean, where our vessel was to be
the flag-ship of Com. Elliott.

I served for several years on this station in different ships,
and, during the time, visited almost every port in that classic
sea, besides making a trip to the Baltic. I always look
back to this period of my life with pleasure ; for I had many
fine opportunities of seeing places and persons of historic
interest. I will endeavor briefly to describe an episode which
came within my experience during this part of my naval life.

One fine evening, in the short summer season which succeeds
the rigorous winter of the Baltic Sea, our ship entered the
harbor of Cronstadt, anchoring in that part of it allotted to
ships-of-war. The sails were furled, and every thing made
snug, as is customary in our ships after entering a harbor, when
a government barge was reported approaching the ship. Soon
it came alongside, and a Russian officer mounted to the deck.
Ostensibly his visit was one of courtesy ; and, in the usual
manner, he tendered the facilities of the port and dockyard to
our commander.

2* 17

18 KEEL AND SADDLE.

While the officer was engaged in the cabin, several of the
boat's crew ascended to the deck, and among them the cox-
swain, a tall man in the dark green uniform of that humble
office, and bearing no other insignia of rank than the silver
chevrons of a petty officer. This person walked round the
ship, descending to the main deck, where he minutely inspected
the battery and other warlike appurtenances. He evidently
wished to remain unobserved ; but his imposing stature and
noble air did not fail to command attention.

Our old North-Sea pilot at last observed this incognito
seaman, and reported to the officer of the deck that a person-
age of the highest rank in Russia was on board ; and the cap-
tain was immediately apprised of his presence and station.
Our commanding officer at once comprehended and respected
the wishes of the unknown, but directed such preparations to
be made quietly as are customary when a personage of his
condition is received.

In due time the Russian officer came on the quarter-deck :
his boat was manned at his request; and, the tall stranger hav-
ing taken his place at the helm, the boat shoved off from the
ship.

As soon as this was done, the shrill call and hoarse summons
of the boatswain was heard : a few active topmen sprang aloft,
the life-lines were rove and the yards manned, and the
thunder of our thirty-twos burst forth in an imperial salute,
the Russian standard at the main. All the ships-of-war
around us, aroused by the report, instantly began their prepa-
rations ; and, before the reverberations of our guns had ceased,
their yards were manned, and their cannon and those of the
castle prolonged the deafening acclaim. The barge lay for a
few moments abreast of our ship. The tall coxswain rose from
his seat at the tiller, and gracefully lifted his cap in acknowl-
edgment. He was Nicolas, Czar of all the Russias.

The czar treated our captain and all the officers with distin-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 19

guished hospitality during our stay; and for a fortnight we had
our fill of visits to St. Petersburg and its vicinity, with balls,
parties, dinners, and fetes of all kinds, intermingled with the
opera and reviews, and concluding with a reception at the
Palace of Zarsko Zelo. After the lapse of so many years, I
still remember the Emperor Nicolas as the handsomest man
I ever saw in any country, and the most perfect embodiment
of the regal power and dignity that the imagination can pic-
ture. Hamlet describes his appearance exactly. In his impe-
rial palace he acted his part with courteous dignity, and moved
through those courtly halls with the lofty bearing of a king
and the quiet ease of a well-bred gentleman. Like Saul, he
was greater than other men, and at a ball could be seen tow-
ering over the throng a full head and shoulders above men of
even lofty stature. At the review he was "locked up in
steel," wearing the uniform of the cuirassiers of the guard; and,
mounted upon a powerful black charger, he rode, as heroic a
figure as was ever imagined by Homer. The imperial family
were also remarkable for their personal beauty, inheriting it
from both parents ; for the empress was a most lovely and
amiable person : and this distinction still clings to the house
of Romanoff.

" There is a black sheep in every flock ; " and this one was
not exempt from the application of the proverb. Constantine,
the son of Paul, the brother of the czar, was in appearance, as
in other things, an unmistakable Calmuck. The grand duke,
however, entertained us most hospitably at his magnificent
chateau near St. Petersburg. At this interview a Polish offi-
cer speaking French and English acted as interpreter; for,
unlike most Russians of station and education, Constantine
spoke nothing but his own language. This officer seemed
high in the esteem and confidence of the grand duke ; but
what was our astonishment, and the indignation of our com-
mander, when, after we had got well out of the Baltic, we saw

20 KEEL AND SADDLE.

this audacious Pole appear in the midst of our crew as if
dropped from the sky ! The poor man, in the disguise of a
seaman, had been secreted in the depths of the cable tier, and
nourished there by some of his countrymen, musicians and
marines, in pure commiseration, ever since we left Cronstadt.

It was at first decided to return, and deliver up this fugi-
tive, as the spiriting-away of a subject of the emperor might
have led to serious diplomatic complications ; but finally we
kept on, and the Pole remained on board. One day I called to
this person, and asked him why he so earnestly desired to
escape from Russia.

"Sir," said he, "that question is easily answered in one
word, — Siberia!" — "But," said I, "we saw you enjoying a
respectable military rank, and apparently possessing the confi-
dence and esteem of the brother of the emperor, as well as an
important post in his household ; all of which you have sud-
denly given up, and are here as a fugitive, without money,
friends, or any prospect for the future."

" Ah ! " returned the Pole, " you know not Constantino or
his tiger-like nature. With him there is no such sentiment
as friendship, especially towards one of my race and nation.
His crimes against my unhappy country call loudly for retri-
bution from Heaven, as you must have heard : and, although I
never experienced aught but kindness and favors from him,
I felt that any moment, and for the most trifling cause, I might
feel the heavy weight of his displeasure ; while the consequences
would be to me, as to others I have known, of the most terri-
ble character. It is not my unfortunate countrymen alone
who tremble at the name of Siberia : the Russians themselves
of every class never hear the word spoken without a thrill of
anxiety, and a glance about them to make sure that they are
still in their own homes."

IV.

IBERIA," continued the Pole, " comprises all that vast
and desolate tract of country that stretches from those
northern shores of the Polar Sea, lined with eternal glaciers,
beneath which dive rivers as large as the Volga, to the illimi-
table steppes which terminate in the rugged range of the Altai.
On the east it is bounded by Behring's Straits ; and, towards
Europe, by the nearly impenetrable forests of the Ural, guard-
ed by the fierce Bashkirs and Calmucks. Its soil consists of
gravelly plains, interspersed with marshes, from whose sparse
mosses and lichens the few reindeer draw their scanty subsist-
ence.

" In the southern parts of this dreary tract may be seen at
long intervals the wretched ' yourts ' of the miserable inhabit-
ants and the rude huts of the poor exiles, who labor hard to
raise a few vegetables to keep them from starving during the
long winters. From the first of August to April the nights
are twenty-two hours long, and the temperature twenty degrees
below zero. For the succeeding four months the sun never
sets : it is necessary that his rays should be incessantly poured
upon the indurated soil in order to ripen its scanty produc-
tions.

" Into this dreadful gulf the Russian Government throws
pele^mele with the infected masses of their own criminals the
best blood of Poland. The chains leave St. Petersburg and
Moscow daily, regardless of the severity of the weather. Men

21

22 KEEL AND SADDLE.

and women alike are hurried along by their savage Cossack
guards to the inhuman solitude they are destined to people,
and, if necessary, urged on with the stick and the knout.
Once daily, and on Sundays and feast-days, there is a halt
at wretched sheds provided for the purpose, twenty-five versts
(fifteen miles) distant from each other.

" In these they are huddled together, without even straw to
sleep upon : and, should these shelters be occupied by the sol-
diers of the czar, the chain sleeps beneath the canopy of
heaven ; for they cannot be expected to share the quarters of
the defenders of holy Russia. Their rations are just enougli
to keep them from starvation ; consisting daily of a handful of
buck-wheat flour and oats, a few vegetables, and a loaf of sticky
black rye-bread, powdered with salt, cooked by the exiles
themselves. If they dare to complain of insufficient fare, they
are treated to a hors d'oeuvre of seasoned ash or oak, admin-
istered on their backs and shoulders. The commander of the
escort is the sole judge of the quality and quantity of the
victuals issued to the chain. If it pleases him to economize
them, selling the portion saved, for his own profit, or if half
the chain die on the road from hunger, it is nobody's business
to examine into the cause of the mortality. The dead are
silent ; and the living take care to forget the circumstance in
Russia, where an imprudent word may be fatal.

"The journey from St. Petersburg to Tobolsk is about
twenty-two hundred miles ; and is accomplished by the chain
in four and a half months, at the rate of about sixteen miles
daily.

" So long a march is not executed without accidents and
sickness : so there are hospitals, so called, on the route. They
are mere open barns, built of logs, infested by the filthiest
vermin, presided over by a person called ' doctor,' who is either
an empiric or a barber, at a salary of twenty roubles (twelve
dollars) per annum. When a patient dies, his body is envel-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 23

oped in a coarse winding-sheet, or laid naked in a rude pine-
coffin, which is drawn over the snow to a place where the bodies
of men and beasts are together interred : a shallow grave is
dug in the hardened soil ; or, if the soil be frozen too hard, the
corpse is left there in the snow to await a thaw. There is no
religious ceremony ; for what need of prayers has an exile ?
He was banished for offending the czar; and therefore, by the
Greek Church, is held to be in a state of mortal sin, of which
he can be purged only in hell. If the deceased be a Pole, he
is perhaps thrust through a hole in the ice of the neighboring
river. The Russians reserve all their hatred, fury, and caprice
to vent upon the ' Polak.'

" Their sovereign loves not Poland ; the Pole exasperates
the czar : so let us torture and even kill him, should he fall
into our hands ; and these ferocious savages act accordingly.

" During the long march of a hundred and fifty days, it
sometimes happens that some of the boldest escape, often car-
rying with them the arms of a soldier of the escort. Flight is
not difficult : but it is not easy to get out of the country, or to
subsist in the trackless forest ; and, if any succeed in doing so,
it is only to fall into the hands of the Prussian gens d 'armes,
who instantly return the unhappy fugitive to their Russian
allies. If recaptured by the latter, the exile has his flesh cut
into ribbons by the sharp, angular lash of the terrible knout.
Should he survive the fearful punishment, his heel is pierced,
and an iron ring inserted between the bone and the Achilles
tendon. He is then sent to end his days in a mine, and to
ponder there over the paternal justice of his monarch and fa-
ther. But the runaway exile usually sells his life dearly, know-
ing the price that will be exacted for it.

" To recount all the horrors of this fearful transit would be
to disgust 3rou with your species ; and I shall not further weary
you with the loathsome details.

" Should any one, actuated by a sentiment of generous pity,

24 KEEL AND SADDLE.

denounce all these atrocities to the emperor, he himself would
be denounced, and his ruin effected, for conspiring against the
state, the czar, and religion. He would immediately be
knouted, to give him a lesson of prudence, silence, and discre-
tion. The czar is not ignorant of the facts : but in Russia
one may see every thing, hear every thing, yet beware of ex-
pressing a single sentiment of surprise or pity ; for it is the
crime of lese-majeste.

" Upon their arrival at Tobolsk, the Pole and those destined
for the mines are immediately sent to their place of exile, in
order to get them at once as far as possible from the frontier.
The rest — the bandits, assassins, poisoners, and other felons —
are set free, with leave for a fortnight to rest from the fatigue
of the journey : after which they receive a route-ticket, and a
leathern purse containing about eighty cents in copper coin ;
and are obliged to go to their destination without any further
directions, and to find the master to whom they are allotted.

"But the mines, — those deep and darksome gulfs in which
men are forever plunged, never again to behold the light of
day, and doomed to spend their lives in digging coal, — who
shall tell of the anguish, the misery, of these abominable sepul-
chres, in which the unfortunates, consigned to a living death,
toil continually, until completely worn out, their joints para-
lyzed, and their members rendered powerless by neuralgia ?

" Those who are allotted to service are placed with some
colonial master who exercises a profession or business, or culti-
vates the soil. He may be a humane person : if so, so much
the better ; for the unfortunate may expect a sort of relative
happiness. Should he be a cruel one, however, so much the
worse for the poor soul ; for all hell's torments heaped upon a
single head would not be the measure of the sufferings and
anguish which he must endure. The government does not
occupy itself with such details, nor does it protect its subjects
from cruelty.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 25

" True, there are plenty of ' ukases ; ' but, though emanat-
ing from the brain of the czar, they are never executed, seldom
even read. If the exile be a Pole or a Georgian, and conse-
quently a Catholic, he is trebly unfortunate ; for he has a halter
permanently around his neck. The master is bound to pro-
vide food, lodging, and clothing for his servant, and to deposit
with the golowa the sum of sixty cents monthly, which repre-
sents his pay ; certainly not much. For the time of his ap-
prenticeship of hard servitude, he must give up the most
modest, the most inoffensive enjoyments, — even tobacco,
unless it is bestowed upon him in charity. Charity indeed !
that is a coin uncurrent in Russia. By a strange contradiction,
the government, which treats the human race worse than the
brute creation, and to which the life of a man is worth no more
than that of a crow, exerts every effort to people this vast soli-
tude, called Siberia. It tolerates neither celibacy nor widow-
hood, permitting the departed of neither sex to live isolated.
' It is not good for man to live alone,' says Holy Writ. ' Man
must work, and people the earth,' adds the czar. Upon Siberian
soil the exile dons a new skin : he loses his name, and is re-
baptized ; he is a new being, and is expected to found a new
family. To that which may be left behind him he is dead
and buried. Should he have property, it is taken by the
State, to spare his heirs the trouble of a division ; or, if his
parents have any, his portion is seized by the same paternal
authority. Reconcile these monstrosities if you can.

" But one saving grace remains : which is, that, in case his
wife and children solicit the favor of sharing his banishment,
they are permitted to do so on condition of submitting to the
penal regulations which govern the Siberian population ; of
which I will spare you the recital, for fear of their giving you
a nightmare.

" To proceed. The condemned person works for three years,
and at the end of that time enters into possession of about

3

26 KEEL AND SADDLE.

twenty-five dollars of your money, with which he buys a cow
and a few articles of prime necessity, clears a few acres of
land allotted to him, builds a log-hut, and becomes, in his turn,
a master colonist.

" As to the manner in which the women convicts are treated,
I shrink from the task of describing it, and beg to leave it to
your imagination. Suffice it to say, they are compelled to
submit to the same rules with regard to marriage that are
imposed on men ; and these enforced unions are made with
scarcely more respect than is usually paid to the coupling of
animals.

" As elsewhere in Russia, the government endeavors to real-
ize with sanguinary fury the fundamental maxim of the first
Nicolas, — ' Political unity by means of religious unity.'
There is need for no other belief than that foul and ignoble
orthodoxy on which is pinned the faith of the Russian clergy :
so the Pole is urged to become a convert to the Greek religion.
Should he refuse, all hell's torments are discharged upon his
devoted head ; and when, breathless and lost, the unfortunate
succumbs under the superhuman griefs and pains of the knout,
the stick, and the whip, his executioners cry to him, ' Embrace
the religion of our father the czar, and all thy punishment
shall cease ! ' Should the poor creature assent, he is instantly
immersed in the next brook or pool ; and, lo ! a convert to the
Greek Church.

" If I ever dared to allude to all the ingeniously fiendish
tortures inflicted upon my countrymen during my forced resi-
dence in Russia, I was met with the remark, ' They complain
not of their fate, but pass, without much regret, from their
easy but harassed condition in their native country to this life
of labor, fatigue, and servitude, which may not be so painful
as you imagine.' All Russians have the strange and servile
habit of praising all the acts of their autocrat ; which indicates
an utter absence of moral sense, and an impenetrable thickness

KEEL AND SADDLE. 27

of skin to which that of a rhinoceros is hut the thinnest paper.
Every other consideration must he ignored when it is a ques-
tion of the worship of the great national fetish.

" And now," said the Pole, " that I have given you hut a
partial account of the dreadful fate which constantly menaced
me in Russia, can you wonder I should wish to escape from a
country in which such crimes can be committed with impunity,
and from a doom which has heen meted out to so many of my
countrymen ? No ! I know you do not ; although your own
free and enlightened nation has always had a sort of sympathy
with Russia, the ground for which is, I shrewdly believe, that
you expect to divide the world between you by and by. While
you are subduing a mighty continent by the enterprise and
energy of your people, Russia is imitating your example in
Europe and Asia; and, by means diametrically opposite, silently
accomplishing a similar purpose.

" Truly the ways of the Almighty are inscrutable, and we,
his creatures, but the passive, involuntary means of their
fulfilment."

V.

REGOEY XVI. was pontiff at the period of my first
\JT visit to Rome, during the Mediterranean cruise I have
referred to ; and, of the famous personages then residing in the
Eternal City, the one I most desired to see was the mother of
the modern Caesar, Napoleon I. Madame Mere, or Madame
Letitia, as she was usually called, being requested to grant an
interview to a small party of American officers, of which I was
one, graciously assented, and fixed a day for the reception at
the palace she occupied.

Repairing thither at the hour appointed, after a short
detention in a spacious ante-chamber we were ushered into
one of those lofty saloons common to Italian palaces, hand-
somely, not gorgeously furnished, and opening by spacious
windows into a beautiful garden. There, with her back
towards the subdued light from the windows, we saw an
elderly lady reclining on a sofa in a graceful attitude
of repose. She was attended by three ladies, who all re-
mained standing during our visit. In the recess of one of
the windows, on a tall pedestal of antique marble, stood a mag-
nificent bust of the emperor; while upon the walls of the
saloon, in elegant frames, were hung the portraits of her chil-
dren, all of whom had been kings and queens, — of royal
rank, though not of royal lineage. Madame Letitia received
us with perfect courtesy, without rising from her reclining
position ; motioning us gracefully to seats with a polite gesture

28

KEEL AND SADDLE. 29

of a hand and arm still of noble contour and dazzling white-
ness. It was easy to see where the emperor got his small
white hands, of which he was so vain, as we are told ; while
the classic regularity of his well-known features was clearly
traceable in the lineaments of the lady before us. Her head
was covered with a cap of lace ; and her somewhat haughty
but expressive face, beaming with intelligence, was framed in
clustering curls a I 'antique. Her eyes were brilliant, large,
and piercing (I think they could hardly have been more so
in her youth) ; and the lines of her mouth and chin gave an
expression of firmness, courage, and determination to a fine
physiognomy perfectly in character with the historical ante-
cedents and attributes of Letitia Ramolini. Of the rest of her
dress we saw but little, her bust being covered by a lace hand-
kerchief crossed over the bosom, and her dark silk robe par-
tially concealed by a superb cashmere shawl thrown over the
lower part of her person. She opened the conversation by
making some complimentary remark about our country ; asking
after her son Joseph, who resided then at Bordentown, N. J. ;
and seemed pleased at receiving news of him from one of our
party, who had seen him not long before. She asked this
officer whether the "king" (le roi d'Espagne) still resembled
the portrait in her possession, which was a very fine one ; and
upon our asking permission to examine the bust of the em-
peror, the greatest of her sons, told us that it was considered a
fine work of art, it being, indeed, from the chisel of Canova ;
adding, I fancied with a little sigh of melancholy, " II resemble
beaucoup a 1'empereur." After some further commonplaces,
she signified in the most delicate and dignified manner, more
by looks than by words, addressed to the ladies of our party,
referring to her rather weak state of health, that the interview
should terminate ; and, having made our obeisance, we left
her.

I may be excused for making an exception to my general
3*

30 KEEL AND SADDLE.

rule of silence with reference to the marvel of antiquity and
art in Borne in the case of the Coliseum, of which every
writer is expected to say something.

Rome having become mistress of the then known world, and
having imposed her yoke on every foreign nation, rendering
all tributary to her, erected this vast edifice, capable of seating
a hundred thousand persons, as the principal place of amuse-
ment of her citizens. The Romans had ceased to labor for
their subsistence: they inhabited a city built entirely of
marble, through which they idly sauntered, bent on pleasure,
or the enjoyment of the baths they had constructed with such
luxurious taste and lavish expense. Their chief excitement
was found in the bloody scenes of the arena ; and their passion
for this could be gratified only by the wholesale slaughter of
the brute creation and the murder of the human species. The
terrible appetite grew by what it fed on, until tamer diversions
seemed insipid ; and its indulgence produced those storied
monsters of antiquity who disgraced humanity. It was in the
decadence of the empire that this great amphitheatre arose,
and soon found imitations in every province.

Christianity came in to divert it from its original use ; and
we have still before us, as a lesson, the mighty ruins, which
seem destined to endure to the end of time.

While reflecting after this fashion in the great amphitheatre,
I turned to our first lieutenant, and asked him for his views on
the Coliseum.

The worthy officer, who was entirely devoted to his profes-
sion, — a martinet on the subject of clean decks, combings, lad-
ders, brass railings, and belaying-pins, — replied curtly to my
inquiry, waking up from his revery, " Well, I was just think-
ing what a fine lot of ' holy-stones and bibles ' I could get out
here, if I could only transport them aboard the ship."

A strange event happened during this cruise, while we lay
at Messina.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 31

An English tourist, in search of the picturesque, was taken
prisoner by the brigands 'of the Abruzzi in Calabria. The
British consul at Reggio, having entered into communication
with the chief of the robbers, — it would have been useless to
ask help from the Neapolitan Government, — inquired what
sum was required for his ransom. Ten thousand ducats, was
the answer. The consul, who had come in person under a
safeguard from the brigand chief to the conference, could not
help an exclamation of surprise at the enormity of the de-
mand. He abruptly broke off the negotiation, and sent to
Malta for a ship of war to intimidate the brigands. In a
short time his Majesty's ship " Barham," of sixty guns, arrived
at Reggio ; and at last the troops of King Ferdinand took the
field against the robbers.

The brigand chief was equal to the emergency. He disap-
peared from the neighborhood with his prize, taking refuge in
the inaccessible defiles of the mountains. The hostile demon-
strations of the consul having failed, he again sought an
interview with the chief, and re-opened his negotiations.
"Now, amico mio" said the consul, "tell me what ransom
you really mean to take for your prisoner? " — " Twenty thou-
sand ducats," replied the chief; " and it is my last word. Let
me have my answer soon ; for provisions are scarce with us,
and it costs something to keep an Englishman. Above all,
take care to make no more hostile attempts against us ; for, in
that case, the ransom will be trebled."

The consul saw the point ; and after some time it was agreed
that the Neapolitan Government should pay one half the
amount, the British Government paying the other. Word
was sent to the chief that his proposition was acceded to, and
a time and place agreed upon for the redemption of the cap-
tive and the payment of the ransom. The high contracting
parties met at the rendezvous, the consul, as before, accom-
panied by a strong guard ; but the robber chief came alone.

32 KEEL AND SADDLE.

The prisoner was delivered up, and the money counted out
to the brigand ; but the consul could not help remarking, in
some excitement, upon the magnitude of the amount of the
sum demanded. " Abbiate pacienza, Signer Consule " (" Be
calm, sir"), said the brigand: "it is yourself that fixed the
sum." — " How I ? " — " Certainly, sir. You remember, last
year, a ship caine to Naples from England, with foreigners on
board, intending to revolutionize our country and upset the
government of our good, king." (The brigands pretended to
be desperately loyal to King Bomba.) "The ship was seized,
adjudged a lawful prize, and condemned as such. The crew,
including one Englishman, were cast into prison. England
was indignant at the outrage upon one of her subjects,
threatened the king's government, and, abusing her superior
strength, compelled Ferdinand to restore the ship, and to
liberate the Englishman, and, in addition, to pay him the
sum of ten thousand ducats. The tariff for a rogue being
thus fixed by yourselves, we could not think of asking less for
the ransom of an honest man. As to the other ten thousand
ducats, that is the price you must pay for the presence of
your ship-of-war at Reggio, and the attempt to coerce us by
employing soldiers to hunt us down ; for know, Signer Con-
sule," added the brigand with a haughty gesture, " we are not
children, who can be frightened into compliance with your
wishes."

" The Barbara " came over to Messina afterwards, and we
met her officers frequently amid the festivities of that gay
city. We heard that the fair Sicilians frequently asked their
guests how they liked cruising after brigands in the moun-
tains of Calabria.

From the Adriatic we visited the Ionian Islands, the west
coast of Greece, and the Morea, touching at Napoli di Romania
and Hydra ; and off Cape Colonna we met the British frigate
"Portland" bearing away from the classic land old King

KEEL AND SADDLE. 33

Louis of Bavaria, who had been on a visit to his son, King
Otho of Greece. Then, sailing up the Gulf of Salamis, we
entered the harbor of the Piraeus, and anchored in view of
Athens, with Mount Hymettus towering above the city.

The young king had just ascended the throne, and offered
TIS every facility for visiting the objects of interest in his
kingdom : for which, I fear, we made but a poor return ; for
his visit to "The Constitution" at Piraeus nearly cost him his
life. It happened in this wise : —

On a lovely morning His Majesty came on board, accom-
panied by a numerous suite of ladies and gentlemen of the
court, and civil and military officers, whom we received with
all the honors. The ship was in her best trim ; and, at the
close of the reception-ceremonies, the drum beat to quarters,
and the crew were exercised at the great guns and in all the
details of a naval engagement, at the king's request. Now,
we had on board certain repeating rifles, invented by some
cute Yankee, intended to clear an enemy's deck at close
quarters, and, generally, to " beat all creation." Tbis arm,
formidable alike to enemies and friends, consisted of seven
rifled gun-barrels welded together en faisceau, the repeating
principle lying in the peculiar form of the bullets, which were
cylindrical, with a hole for a fuse through their axes ; thus
communicating with a charge of powder between each pair
of bullets, and, seriatim, from that nearest the muzzle to the
breech. The lock was near the muzzle of the arm, and each
barrel contained twenty-five charges. A shower of leaden
hail could thus be thrown, which was to continue until all the
hundred and seventy-five projectiles were discharged ; for,
the piece once fired, its contents must all be thrown out
before the volley could be stopped. It was poised up on a
swivel, intended to be inserted in a top rim or ship's rail, and
directed by a long handle called a " monkey-tail."

At the close of the exercises, the king and the rest of our

34 KEEL AND SADDLE.

guests, with the officers of the ship and those of a French
frigate in the harbor, assembled on the quarter-deck to
witness the performances of this wonderful engine, which was
swivelled upon the taffrail. Our old gunner seized the
monkey-tail to control the fire, pointed his piece at the
target, — which consisted of some barrels lashed together and
dropped astern of the ship, and pulled the lockstring.

The " infernal machine " began its work in an exemplary
manner, with the rolling fire of an infantry platoon, and
smashed the target at once. One, two, three barrels were
emptied ; but the piece then became hot, and gave evidence of
a strong desire to emancipate itself from control, and to
wheel upon its pivot, and turn its muzzle inboard. The
gunner held on manfully to the monkey-tail until all but the
last two barrels were discharged ; when the piece became com-
pletely unmanageable, and suddenly bore upon the deck, dis-
tributing its leaden sugar-plums indiscriminately in every
direction.

Sauve qui pent was the word; and the spar-deck was
quickly cleared. Our commodore, with great presence of
mind, seized the king in his arms, and made a plunge down
the after-hatchway leading to the main-deck ; and all the
company dived below through other hatchways, the ship-
officers gallantly following the example of the commodore
with the ladies of the court. The king was dressed in a
splendid Albanian costume ; and the ample white kilt spread
out like a fan while His Majesty made frantic efforts to escape
from the parental embrace of the old commodore in what he
considered a most undignified retreat from danger. The
ladies took it more quietly ; but the exodus was general as well
as speedy, and the quarter-deck was left to the undisputed
possession of Brother Jonathan's patent exterminator, which
continued to rake the spar-deck fore and aft until the bullets
were all expended.

VI.

"TpEOM Greece and the island ports of the ^Egean Sea our
JD summer cruise was continued to Smyrna, which we found
the most agreeable and hospitable of all the Levantine ports.
The society was of a nature which is always the most enter-
taining, and was composed of refined and highly educated
people, — Americans, English, Italians, Spaniards, French,
Greeks, and Armenians.

Of the native Turks I cannot speak, as unbelievers are not
admitted to the privacy of their dwellings, with the rare ex-
ception of a few official persons ; judging from whose reports,
we had no desire to know more of the Osmanli.

The Christian element, of which I have spoken, is most
harmoniously fused in an institution, common to the cities of
the Levant and Sicily, known as the casino. This is what
we should term a club : but, social enjoyment being its object,
its privileges are shared by both sexes ; which community gives
the institution a more civilized and refining character. The
casino is established and maintained by subscription ; all
the members being on terms of perfect equality, and retain-
ing there the same independence they enjoy in their own
homes. The casino at Smyrna was, and probably still remains,
a model of its kind. The house was large and spacious, its
saloons magnificent, with suites of elegant apartments for cards,
billiards, conversation, and music, including a fine ball-room ;
all handsomely furnished. A restaurant and buffet was at-

85

36 KEEL AND SADDLE.

tached to the establishment, which had a large staff of attend-
ants under the superintendence of a major-domo, who per-
formed his multifarious duties subject to the direction of a
committee of members of the casino. The subscribers main-
taining this splendid institution were all merchants, either of
Smyrna or the neighborhood, including all the foreign consuls,
who, in the East, enjoy a quasi diplomatic character. There
was a weekly ball, except in the season of villegiatura ; and the
rooms could be used by the members for private re-unions if
they pleased. This last advantage of membership I should
think worthy of imitation elsewhere, as it precludes the neces-
sity of turning one's own domicile upside-down for a single
evening, to say nothing of the saving of expense. All stran-
gers were introduced by a member ; after which they enjoyed
all the advantages of the casino.

At these casino balls, I have heard the officers of all nations
agree, were to be seen the most attractive and beautiful women
of every clime, bewildering in variety of charms, bewitching
in character, and all in toilets more or less splendid and fanciful.
In fact, nothing was wanted to complete the accessories of ele-
vated and refining social enjoyment.

Having received our firman from the Sublime Porte, after
considerable diplomatic negotiation and delay, we left Smyrna
and its fair women, its gay balls and parties at the casino, its
delicious fruits, its pleasant hunting-parties in the woods of
the neighborhood, where wild boar and venison were abundant,
and sailed for the Dardanelles, touching at the plains of Troy,
and anchored in due time off Seraglio Point, at Constanti-
nople.

Although desirous of seeing this far-famed city, we did not
find the change agreeable in many respects.

I never could feel any admiration for the Easterns, especially
the Turks, who, after all, are but a strange, nomadic, and
still barbarous people, albeit prominent in European politics,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 37

and who may be said, at the present day, to be merely en-
camped in Europe. Hardly more sympathy can be felt for
them by the people of Western Europe than is felt by the
people of the United States for the Mormons or the abo-
rigines.

As to the sights of Stamboul, they are chiefly natural ;
and those esteemed very wonderful by the Turks may be
dismissed as altogether unworthy of serious notice. The
antiquities are few, and the museums and palaces contempti-
ble, except those of the sultan, which have a sort of mixed
French and barbaric splendor. The population is bigoted, in-
tolerant, and insufferably dirty in appearance and manners ;
and altogether you cannot resist a strong desire to expel
these Oriental humbugs to the Asian deserts from which they
came.

Sultan Mahmoud, the slayer of the janizaries, and one of
the wisest monarchs who has ever held the sceptre of the
prophet, and the first who had ventured upon the work of
reform in the empire, was at that time at the height of his
power. Strolling through the Almeidan one day with a few
companions, we became aware that a distinguished party was
entering the place. First came a squadron of cavalry, which
occupied the different avenues leading to it ; while a smaller
party of richly-dressed slaves following them drove away
every one but ourselves, telling us we might remain ; and,
forming in line, drew their sabres. They were the eunuchs
of the imperial harem. The ancient lists having been
cleared, a target was set up at one end of them; and we
learned that the commander of the faithful himself was
momentarily expected to enjoy his favorite practice of arch-
ery, in which he excelled. To this one of the ancient cus-
toms of the padishahs, his predecessors, he still adhered. A
group of Turks, evidently of station and consequence, fol-
lowed; and then, riding alone on a noble chestnut horse,

4

38 KEEL AND SADDLE.

came Mahmoud himself. He dismounted immediately, and,
taking a bow and arrows from an attendant, placed himself at
a stone which marked the base, and began to fire at the
target, at about the distance, I should think, of a hundred
yards.

The sultan was at that time in full health and strength,
and had a considerable share of good looks. He was of me-
dium size, with aquiline features, piercing black eyes, and a
full beard of the same color, which probably owed its glossy
look to dyes and cosmetics. His dress was a blue cloth tunic,
made like a single-breasted military frock, with embroidered
cuffs and collar ; light-blue trousers in the Frankish style ;
and a star of brilliants on the breast of his coat. On his
head was a scarlet fez, with an aigret of brilliants in front,
holding a straight heron's plume, the imperial ghika ; and by
his side hung a gorgeous sabre. On dismounting, he threw
off a capacious scarlet cloak. The commander of the faith-
ful proved to be a skilful as well as graceful archer, striking
the target with every arrow. After about a dozen successful
shots, the target was removed ; and the sultan began his exer-
cise with the bow for distance, which was marked off by
several marble pillars. He stepped forward, and quickly
despatched about a dozen more arrows, firing with great
rapidity. I should think he sent his shafts at least two hun-
dred and fifty yards.

The sultan then became aware that we were observing
him, and graciously sent us the information by an officer, that
he had, in the last trial, sent an arrow beyond any of those
recorded by his predecessors. He then mounted his horse
and rode off, followed by his eunuchs ; but the cavalry re-
mained for about an hour, engaged in the national exercise of
the jereed, which I need not describe.

Although Mahmoud was fond of and highly skilled in the
old warlike sports of the Mussulmans, he still took care to

KEEL AND SADDLE. 39

provide his army with muskets and hayonets of European
manufacture, and clothed them in the uniform of the Frank ;
which certainly did not improve their appearance to the eye
accustomed to behold the models they imitated. These re-
forms, and other departures from the time-honored customs of
the Moslems, led to a serious revolt, which he extinguished
with resolute vigor ; but discontent still existed, and his regu-
lar troops were called, in derision, " tacticos."

Leaving Constantinople, we sailed down the ^Egean, touch-
ing at Scio and Tenedos, and sustaining a heavy gale, in
which we narrowly escaped shipweck. The storm was heavi-
est just before nightfall, when we were to the northward of
Myconi, and that island was close under our lee. The sun
went down red and angry ; and the wind, increasing with the
darkness of night, became almost a hurricane, accompanied
by sharp lightning and driving rain and hail. We lost sight
of the. high and rocky shores; but, at midnight, could dis-
tinctly hear the roar of the surf as the waves broke on the
rocks, so near to them were we. Our ship held on well, with
the lee hammock-nettings almost in the water, as she ca-
reened under the pressure of close-reefed topsails and whole
courses. In an open sea she would have been hove to under
storm-sails ; but here we were compelled to carry on, even if
the masts went out of her. Our old Greek pilot stood be-
tween the night-heads, accompanied by several officers ; and
our first lieutenant — a splendid seaman and accomplished
officer — had the deck, and stood immovable at his post,
trumpet in hand. The ship dashed gallantly through the
waves at a high rate of speed, but trembled like a living
tiling under the unwonted pressure of canvas. Every officer
and seaman was at his post, and perfect silence prevailed :
no sound was heard save the roar of the blast, and the dash-
ing of the waves as the ship threw them from her bows.

Just at a critical instant, when the breakers were reported

40 KEEL AND SADDLE.

ahead, and the command for tacking, " Eeady ahout ! " had
been given through the trumpet, a heavy squall passed over
the ship, and the cloufls broke away for a moment in the
southern horizon, showing clearly the passage between the
Islands of Tino and Myconi, for which our pilot had been
anxiously looking. Ins'tead of tacking, the ship was put be-
fore the wind ; the mainsail hauled up. Up went the helm,
and she flew into the passage like a bird, that, having been
struggling against an adverse wind, suddenly abandons its
purpose, and flies with the gale.

The old pilot then gave his directions to the helmsman to
"port" or "starboard" as we rushed through the narrow pas-
sage, " conning " the ship by the luminous appearance of
the breakers on either hand as we approached them ; and in
half an hour we rounded to under the lee of the land, and
were saved. Not so a Turkish line-of-battle ship, which had
been in company with us all day. We heard afterwards
that she went ashore upon Tino that fearful night, and was
lost, with every one on board, — five hundred and sixty
souls.

A few days later, having run down the coast of Asia Minor,
our good ship anchored in the road of Beyrout.

Having visited the ruins of Balbec and the famed city of
Damascus, we sailed southward close in with the land of Syria,
and, passing Mount Carmel, anchored again at Sidon.

From this ancient seaport I was sent by our commodore with
a message to Lady Hester Stanhope, who had her residence
not far off on a hill ; and arrived there just at nightfall.

This eccentric English lady, the niece of the great Earl of
Chatham, had led a solitary life in the East for several years,
during which she occupied herself in travelling over the coun-
try, in becoming acquainted with the places celebrated in
biblical history, and acquiring the various languages and
customs of the Oriental countries.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 41

Her relatives were much concerned about her eccentricities
and voluntary exile, as she had once moved in and adorned
the highest society, and possessed an ample fortune. Several
reasons were assigned for her voluntary exile, the most plau-
sible of which, probably, was that her mind was somewhat
unsettled in consequence of the death of her affianced hus-
band, Sir John Moore, killed at Coruna, — the hero of the fine
ballad,—

" Not a drum was heard, nor a funeral note,
As his corse to the ramparts we hurried," &c.

Lady Hester had expended a large portion of her property
during her sojourn in the East, roaming the wilds and deserts
at the head of her hired soldiers, and making treaties with
the wild Bedouin sheiks in the spirit of a Semiramis. She
was certainly generous and fearless ; but I fancy she some-
times owed her safety, while travelling in the desert, to the
high respect and deference yielded by all Orientals to persons
whom Allah has deprived of the full measure of reason. No
doubt, also, her ladyship's bucksheesh was acceptable to these
untutored children of Nature, who are quite as mercenary as
other barbarians or the Thugs of civilization.

The American consul at Sidon, our surgeon, and myself,
arriving rather late at the rambling buildings which composed
the residence of the English lady, found the gates shut and
guarded by her ladyship's Albanian soldiers ; but after a
parley, in which our ambassadorial character was reported
to the chieftainess, they were opened to us, and we dis-
mounted in the court-yard. We were then invited into the
house, and provided with toilet-conveniences, and a comforta-
ble supper, a la Turque, on temperance principles, but with
plenty of kibobs and coffee. After this refreshment we were
told that Lady Hester would receive us, and, following an at-
tendant, were conducted into a large, dimly-lighted room very
4*

42 KEEL AND SADDLE.

scantily furnished, with windows high up in the walls, so that
any view from without was impossible. At the farther end
of this room, on a divan, sat a bundle of Turkish female habili-
ments, which, upon a nearer approach, proved to contain a
lady, who was smoking a long chibouk, which she scarcely
removed from her lips to bid us welcome.

Without rising, she removed the " yashmak " from her face,
and gracefully motioned us to seats, her attendants bringing
us pipes like her own ; and for some minutes we all sat silent,
as if smoking the calumet with some Indian potentate. My
message and invitation to the ship having been delivered and
duly acknowledged by the lady, silence reigned again for a
brief space, during which we had time to observe and admire
the truly noble and expressive features of the singular woman
before us.

Suddenly the silence was broken by Lady Hester, who
commenced a long tirade against the British ministry, which
had incurred her lady's displeasure by divers acts, as we
now learned for the first time from her own lips, but in the
merits of which we surely could not be expected to feel the
slightest interest. Having scolded and abused the uncon-
scious objects of her displeasure at considerable length with
an energy of speech not much milder than vituperation, Lady
Hester asked for news of Ibrahim Pacha.

When we had given the required information as to his
Highness, who had been especially polite and hospitable to us
at Beyrout, her ladyship proceeded, with undiminished volu-
bility, to pour out the vials of her wrath upon the head of the
pacha, whose crimes seemed to be rebelling against the sultan
his master, and neglect of her ladyship's advice. She finished
her diatribe by announcing her intention to seek out the
pacha, and to lead him by the beard to the footstool of his
rightful lord, the padishah, and to crush the revolt by imprison-
ing the father of Ibrahim, Mehemet Ali, Pacha of Egypt.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 43

As she declared her determination, Lady Hester rose from
her seat, dropping her chibouk, which was picked up by a
little black girl at her feet, and stood revealed to our sight, —
a tall, elegant figure, clad in loosely-flowing robes, and looking
like an inspired sibyl.

After having vented her anger as to her two pet grievances,
she conversed very agreeably on general topics, antiquities,
&c., for some time, during which she appeared in her real
character, — that of a high-born English lady. The lucid
interval was not of long duration, however ; for soon she again
broke forth, and this time her theme was religion.

Apart from her interesting account of places hallowed by
the traditions of Bible story, her discourse was a rhapsody
rather than a discussion, and altogether failed to settle the
knotty points she so flippantly assumed to decide. Her theo-
logy seemed to be a strange mosaic of Judaism, Christianity,
and Islamism, ingeniously dovetailed together into a creed
or faith, of the absolute truth of which, if unrevealed to
others, she had convinced herself, at least, satisfactorily. She
evidently was a firm believer in the doctrine of private judg-
ment in faith, even to personal infallibility.

We could easily see that her ladyship had not such good
listeners every day ; and she availed herself to the fullest extent
of the opportunity, continuing always the speaker, and run-
ning from one subject to another with rapidity and ease ; and
at last, meeting with neither denial nor criticism from us, she
arose majestically from her divan, and bade us good-night.
She took leave courteously, offering us her hospitality, and
amiably saying that she had a right to feel a peculiar interest in
our native country, holding, as she did, so near a relationship
to Lord Chatham, our oldest friend and advocate : then, kindly
giving us leave to see her celebrated mares on the next morn-
ing, she retired with graceful dignity.

We were astonished to find that the interview, which began
about eight, P.M., had lasted until long after midnight.

44 KEEL AND SADDLE.

We did not again see our hostess ; but before leaving, after
breakfast next morning, paid a visit to the famous mares.
One of these animals had a remarkably hollow back, a sort of
natural saddle, and was destined for the use of the Redeemer
of the world at his second coming ; while the other was re-
served for Lady Hester herself, who, with her divine companion,
was to ride triumphantly into Jerusalem. The animals were
in fine condition, never being used ; and stared at us as if they
marvelled greatly at our appearance.

We had a pleasant ride back to Sidon, stopping at a Ma-
ronite convent half way, the prior of which shrugged his
shoulders when he heard where we had been, tapping his fore-
head significantly : he then drew forth a bottle of excellent
native wine for our refreshment.

On comparing notes, we found the impression received by all
of us was the same, — that Lady Hester was partly deranged,
and partly a religious enthusiast ; and that Gen. Sir John
Moore, by his glorious death on the battle-field, had escaped a
more painful fate.

VII.

A REIVING at St. Jean d'Acre, we found that Ibrahim
_ZTjL Pacha had preceded us, and was actively engaged in re-
pairing the defences of that celebrated place in preparation for
the conflict between his sovereign and himself that soon after
broke out. Ibrahim was a man of mark in the East, and used
all his power to sustain his father, the rebellious pacha, then
struggling to make his pachalic hereditary in his family ; and
doubtless dreamed of independent sovereignty, which they
would doubtless have achieved but for Russian interposition.

I often saw him. He was of low stature, with a meagre
face and figure ; but had a soldierly carriage, and a mien of
authority and dignity.

Unlike most Turks, he was of a restless and uneasy temper
and active habits. His efforts to improve the Egyptian army
and marine were untiring ; and he employed many foreign offi-
cers in the work of reform. His dress was always the same, —
that of a private soldier, — a simple white linen tunic, baggy
trousers of the same material, with blue cloth trimmings, and
gaiters ; his head coifed with the inevitable fez, and a plainly-
mounted sabre at his side. Yet, simply attired though he was,
the pacha was always the central figure of his large and bril-
liant staff.

Of course, all the officers had opportunity to make a pilgrim-
age to the Holy City under the most favorable auspices, and
protected by the authorities. I visited all the scenes of our

45

46 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Lord's earthly sojournings, — his sufferings and passion, — with
gratitude for the precious privilege ; and treasured up memo-
ries ever after recurred to with sincere pleasure.

These places have been reverenced by the followers of the
Messiah for nearly two thousand years as the actual theatre
of those memorable events. I can have no sympathy with
those who go to the Holy Land with determined scepticism as
to the identification of the spot held sacred in Catholic history.
The Catholic pilgrim certainly has the advantage of the Prot-
estant in this respect ; for he can, reposing in the religious
reverence in which he has been reared, ask confidently, " Is
not this the place where the ' mortal put on immortality ' ?
Was it not here that the sacrifice of the Man-God was con-
summated ? "

Under the guidance of an intelligent Greek kavass we vis-
ited Bethlehem, the Dead Sea, and the River Jordan ; and,
while encamped at the latter place, were visited by a party of
Bedouin Arabs. Though they may have come with plundering
intent, they found that nothing was to be gained by force, and
contented themselves with begging for every thing they saw.
With Spiridion as interpreter, I entered into conversation with
a venerable sheik, who sat gravely before the low tent of
striped cloth, stroking his long white beard. We spoke of the
ruins at Balbec, Palmyra, and other localities, with all of
which he was familiar, and of the unknown and unremembered
people who had once possessed them. These sons of Ishmael
are accustomed to converse in poetry ; and, at the termination
of our discourse, the old sheik said, taking hold of his tent-
cord, " This string of camel's hair which supports my tent is
but a slender one ; yet it has seen the rise and fall of Babylon,
Tyre, and Palmyra, as well as all the gorgeous remains of the
cities we have been talking about."

We were hospitably received at Alexandria by the pacha,
Mehemet Ali, who then reigned as independently as any sove-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 47

reign monarch. He was a fine, venerable man of about sixty,
with a delicate, fresh-colored complexion, and a long white
beard of silky texture. At his reception in the palace over-
looking the harbor, he did the honors in a graceful and dignified
manner, more like a Western European than any Turk I had
yet seen. He wore the Nizam dress of fine brown cloth, slen-
derly embroidered in black ; for the " tactico " dress had not
as yet been adopted in Egypt. Looking at his benevolent
face, no one would imagine that he was the ruthless and de-
termined destroyer of the Mameluke Beys, the only survivor of
whom was pointed out to us at the reception. This was Emin
Bey, who leaped his horse from the wall of the citadel at Cairo
down fifty feet into the fosse, and thus escaped the massacre
that overtook all his comrades in the court-yard. The horse
was killed ; but a few days afterwards an old woman in rags
presented herself at the divan of the pacha, begging for mercy
from the truculent chief. Mehemet, recognizing the " kismet,"
— the doctrine of fatalism of Islam, — not only pardoned
Emin, but afterwards took him into his confidence, — a sure
road to wealth and honor

Some months after leaving the Levant I was temporarily
detached from duty in the squadron, and ordered to report
myself to the American minister at Madrid, as bearer of
despatches from him to the legation in Paris ; and, in pursu-
ance of my instructions, landed at Lisbon about the first of
September, 18-36, and proceeded with the American consul
the next day to the village of Aldea Gallega. I supped that
evening at the posada in company with the gypsy chief with
whom the consul had arranged to conduct myself and servant
safely to Badajos across the frontier. This worthy, Pedrecillo
by name, — gypsies scorn surnames, — was a dark-skinned,
sun-dried specimen of his race, forlorn and miserable enough
in appearance, though possessed of the keen black eyes of the
Gitanos, that seemed perpetually on the lookout for snares and

48 KEEL AND SADDLE.

pitfalls, as became his vocation of contrabandists His usual
employment, when occupied with any business, was smuggling
tobacco and other forbidden merchandise by the aid of his
band, although their ostensible employment was trading horses
and mules.

I was assured that I could trust implicitly to the protection
of the gypsies, and that I might feel as safe on my journey as
if I had an escort of cavalry. Having agreed to conduct and
protect us for a fixed compensation, Pedrecillo, I was told,
would fulfil his engagement to the letter; although, under
some circumstances, he would cut our throats as readily as a
chicken's. I had hoped to enjoy a quiet night's rest at the
posada ; but Pedrecillo informed me at the close of our repast
that I and my mozo, a boy I brought with me from Cadiz, must
set forth at midnight, and join him at a place on the highway
just outside the town, near which the gypsy crew were bivou-
acked. The announcement was made after the chief had
demolished a puchero, the greater part of a pair of fowls, and
a pudding, washed down with a bottle and a half of Collares
wine ; and I assented, concluding that these gentry transact
their respectable commerce only by night, in order to escape
the onerous taxes laid by the resguardo (custom-house). I
yielded only to necessity ; for my guide stipulated that I was in
all things to obey his instructions while travelling under his
protection. I already owned a fine mule : but my first trans-
action with Pedrecillo was a horse- trade ; and I found myself in
possession of a good Andalusian roadster, at a price not more
than twice his real value. My mule was transferred to my
mozo, who carried the provant for the journey, my valise, and
alforjas.

We found Pedrecillo waiting for us at the rendezvous, and
started forward in the moonlight at a brisk canter, which soon
brought us up to the gypsy troop, which had preceded us.
They seemed a shabby cavalcade of men, women, and children,

KEEL AND SADDLE, 49

of all ages, on all sorts of mounts, from fine Cordovese horses
to humble boricos (asses) ; and all were laden with packs com-
posed of camp equipage and contraband luggage. At daylight
their appearance, although picturesque, — rags are always so,
— did not improve. I should except from this remark the
chief, who, being now on his "native heath," dropped his
whining tones and sneaking demeanor, and assumed a jaunty
and swaggering air. He was mounted on a fine stallion ; and
before him, across the saddle, was an enormous trabuco (blun-
derbuss), capable of holding a pint of musket-balls, with a
flaring muzzle like a bass horn. The column of vagabonds
was marshalled like cavalry on a march, — an advance of gita-
nos, who examined the road with searching glances ; then the
main body, with the cujadores (muleteers), with their pack-
mules of contraband goods ; then the gypsy women, with their
household goods, and bantlings strapped to their backs ; and
lastly a rear-guard of stout fellows, who pushed every one
ahead of them, suffering none to lag on the route. The chief,
his wife and son, with Juanito and myself, rode at the head of
the main body in the place of honor.

In this manner we advanced in an easterly direction, at a
steady trot, through a rough and uncultivated country, inter-
spersed with dry water-courses and groves of cork-trees, until
about eight, A.M., when we saw a large town north of us, and
halted in an oak forest at a spring to breakfast. I desired to
visit the town, which was Evord ; but the chief objected, as he
did not wish it to be known that his band was in the neigh-
borhood, for excellent reasons which I could readily appreciate.
I therefore took a nap instead ; after which we all mounted
and rode on, and, leaving the main body at Estremoz, arrived
by noon at a miserable village beyond that town, called Alcar-
vizas ; thence through Elvas, from which the chief alone con-
ducted us to Badajos, at which town we arrived late in the
evening.

6

50 KEEL AND SADDLE.

The gypsy crew had been left behind near the frontier for
some reason which did not appear, and Pedrecillo signified to
me that he had fulfilled his contract. I expressed my satis-
faction at his fidelity, paid him in full, adding a handsome
douceur, and bade him farewell. The gypsy thanked me with
the lofty manner of a true Spaniard, which leaves you in
doubt as to whether you are not really the obliged party, and
took leave, returning to his band.

In my experience with these people, I have always found it
best to treat them with politeness and consideration, as a matter
of policy, if from no better motives. Offer them a cigar, call
them caballeros, and occasionally confer upon them a grati-
ficacioncita of a few reals : in this way you will conciliate
them, and they will repay your condescension by ministering
to all your little wants not formally set down in the agree-
ment.

Badajos is usually described as a grande place de guerre,
premiere classe ; but I found it only a dull frontier-town, with
its famous fortifications decaying for want of repairs. It
is, however, most interesting to a military man as the scene
of the siege conducted by the Duke of Wellington, and so
graphically described by Napier in his " Peninsular War." It
is situated on the Guadiana; above which river the fortified
heights of the strong city rise several hundred feet, with a
bastioned front towards the land side. A strong tete de pont
commands the bridge across the river, which is also com-
manded by the citadel of San Cristobal, into which the indom-
itable Philippon retired with his scanty garrison after the
taking of the town by storm.

I visited the famous bastions of Santa Trinidad and Santa
Maria, where the main attack of the English failed with such
terrible losses ; and the San Vicente bastion, where Picton,
converting a feint into a real attack, by a felicitous inspiration,
carried the town.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 51

With these frowning walls and deep ditches, the flanking
batteries which defend them, and the solid masonry of their
construction, the strong city seems impregnable if resolutely
defended ; and we must agree with Napier, that " no age ever
sent forth braver troops than those who stormed and carried
Badajos." Beside the cathedral, erected 1248, containing a
few doubtful pictures of Morales, and which is sadly in want
of repair, — for it is in Spain, — there are no other objects
of interest to the passing traveller.

Not being pressed for time, I determined to continue as I
had begun, and perform my journey on horseback with no
other companion than my mozo, or such chance wayfarers as I
might meet. So I sent my impedimenta to Madrid by the
carrier ; and towards the last of August we cantered gayly out
of Badajos over an extensive dreary plain. If you have no
ladies or other companions, this is always the best mode of
travelling in countries, which, like Spain, have a sort of demi-
civilization. Besides your horse, equipments, and a servant,
who must always know enough of the country to act as
guide, you must provide a pair of alforjas (saddlebags of
woollen) for yourself, and capachos de esparto (hempen pan-
niers) for your servant, with a leather wine-bottle and pro-
vant, — all of which is carried by your mozo on his mule ; and
with your arms, and a good cloak of the excellent Spanish
cloth called pano pardo, you are equipped for the road.

You are then independent, bound to nobody, travelling at
your own will and pleasure, can start when you please, stop
when you please, and are not restricted to the regular high-
way, or subjected to the dislocating jolts of the lumbering
diligence over execrable roads, with the prospect of a runaway
or an upset, or the probability of robbers. It is the only plan,
even now, by which you can visit the sights best worth seeing
in the country. The Spanish arrieros (carriers) are perfectly
reliable, and may always be trusted. They form a class of

52 KEEL AND SADDLE.

themselves. Like many of their countrymen, they are vain,
boasting, and great liars (embusteros) ; fond of telling tremen-
dous yarns about the country they pass through ; but are
honest and industrious.

We had a monotonous and sultry ride across the plain I
mentioned until a short time after high noon, when we en-
tered the superannuated city of Merida.

VIII.

VEN in Spain, where every thing speaks of the past, and
. I ^J nothing of the living present, Merida, the ancient capi-
tal of Lusitania, retains more memorials of hy-gone ages than
any other city ; and, although very seldom visited by tourists,
can boast of remains as interesting as those of Rome itself.
Indeed, it might with reason be called the Spanish Rome. It
is proudly seated upon the Guadiana, and has an imposing and
lordly aspect.

My first visit was to that marvellous structure, the bridge
built by Trajan across the Guadiana, which still serves the
citizens of the place, and which seems as durable as a work of
Nature. It is said that the Moslems, unable to realize that it
had been erected by man, attributed it to the djinns, or genii.
It is built of stones of enormous size, far greater than those
used in any modern work, whose transportation must have
demanded immense mechanical power, and which are still per-
fectly joined together by cohesion only. It is more than twen-
ty-five hundred feet long, and thirty wide ; and the roadway
rests on eighty-one arches, thirty-five feet above the river.

Over this bridge passed the Roman legions with their ban-
ners inscribed S. P. Q. R. ; and, after the lapse of eighteen cen-
turies, here also have crossed the eagles of the modern Caesar.
Both hosts must have felt their hearts swell within them at
the matchless prospect. A dike of the same enduring mason-
ry serves the bridge as a bulwark against inundations, and has
6* 68

54 KEEL AND SADDLE.

undoubtedly saved it from being seriously damaged in past
times. This island-buttress is now a retreat for the washer-
women of Merida, who resort to it in crowds to ply their voca-
tion. A mixed Roman and Moorish alcazar serves as a tete de
pont; and, on the other side, the episcopal palace, once a Moor-
ish castle, and afterwards occupied by the knights of St. John,
is raised upon the Roman foundation, still distinctly visible,
although the upper part was blown up by either Wellington or
Marmont.

In the town stands a magnificent triumphal arch, also built
by Trajan, but now sadly dilapidated. Mosaic pavements, the
remains of richly-carved Corinthian columns, and huge stone-
blocks that seem as if quarried by the Titans, also abound in
the city. The forum is traceable near the convent of the
Descalzos (barefooted friars) ; and another very perfect Roman
bridge still spans the rivulet of Albaregas, a tributary of the
Guadiana, which would be celebrated in any other locality.
In this neighborhood is a splendid Roman aqueduct, with three
tiers of arches built partly of granite, and partly of brick.
This was but one of the many aqueducts of Merida in its
palmy days ; yet, ruined as it is, by its grand proportions, the
solidity of its materials, and its unmistakable utility, it puts to
shame all modern works of the kind. The circus maximus, or
hippodrome, still exists, just outside the town, and might easily
be used for equestrian performances without alteration. Its
outer walls are of tremendous thickness, and thousands of
spectators could be accommodated in its eight rows of seats.
A small theatre is still occasionally used for the national game
of bull-fighting.

[Let me remark here, that, in writing of this tour in Spain,
I shall speak at length only of such out-of-the-way places as
Merida, which are seldom visited by tourists ; passing by with-
out particular mention those which have already been gener-
ally seen and much written about.]

KEEL A.VD SADDLE. 55

I spent a whole day in inspecting and wondering at the
great water-reservoirs in the neighborhood, which are truly
stupendous and unique in Europe, far surpassing even the cel-
ebrated works of the same kind at Constantinople. At the
Charca de la Albufera, there is an enormous wall of solid gran-
ite, serving as a dam to what is called El lago de Proserpina,
— a subterranean artificial lake, so grand and marvellous in its
construction, that the observer might be pardoned for doubt-
ing that it could have been made by human hands. Several
massive towers connected with this wonderful structure con-
tain stairs still perfect, descending into the huge subterranean
lake, which even now might be repaired and used if required
by a numerous population. Alas ! such a probability is infi-
nitely remote ; for the ancient Emerita, which once numbered
her hundreds of thousands, now counts but three or four thou-
sand poor people.

Having replenished our provisions for the road, and ex-
hausted the sights of Merida, we rose at daylight one morning,
and again set forth on the king's highway, — " camino real"
Estremadura is famed through Spain for the excellence of its
pork, the dried soprcsuda (a sort of smoked sausage, flavored
highly witli red pepper, garlic, and anise-seed) being especially
notable, while the hams of Montanches have a European repu-
tation. Of these savory viands we had furnished ourselves
with a bountiful supply, Juanito having purchased enough to
subsist a dozen persons for a month. Continuing our route
for about three hours, we came suddenly upon the diligence,
which had left Merida the day before, its mules gone, and the
passengers surrounding the vehicle with rueful visages. They
had fallen among thieves : their luggage had been ransacked,
and the team carried off by the robbers. The zagal and may-
oral had left them in quest of other animals ; and the wretched
travellers were compelled to await their return, occupying the
interim with boisterous lamentations. A Briton, of the species

56 KEEL AND SADDLE.

" commercial traveller," was especially wrathful, cursing Spain,
its roads, and particularly its government, calling down upon
them all inverted blessings, as soon as he found out that I
understood his language, i learned from a son of the coun-
try, a passenger, that this part of the high-road is called el
confesionario de San Pedro, — ominous name, on account of
the numbers of poor travellers sent to Hades unshrived by the
salteadores (highwaymen) who infest it.

Having fasted since the day before, the passengers, nine in
number, were ravenously hungry, and made a fierce onslaught
upon our stock of provisions, while Juanito gallantly engaged
in preparing chocolate for the three ladies of the party. Trav-
elling by diligence in Spain is simply odious. The cumbrous
vehicle is invariably behind time ; the stoppages, relays, and
delays innumerable; and the ventas (wayside inns) have
wretched accommodations, and are overrun with vermin.

The conductors having arrived, Juanito and myself cantered
gayly off, and escorted the diligence as far as Medellin. This
small place is noted as the birthplace of Herman Cortes ; but
I could find in it nothing to commemorate him. Yet it is
pleasant to behold places associated with the lives of men who
have stamped their names and characters upon the history of
their race. Among these, surely, may be counted the chival-
rous and daring leader who devoted to his country's aggran-
dizement forty years of his life ; to use his own words, " with
small allowance of food, less sleep, and constantly under arms
and in harness ; " and who filled with his deeds one of the
most dazzling pages of history. To a military man, Cortes
presents the model of a partisan officer; and the moral of his
career as such is, that its success was mainly due to his bold-
ness, and apparent contempt of all caution : only apparent ; for,
in reality, the marquis was shrewd and cunning as well as
daring.

On the next day we arrived at Trujillo, the native town of

KEEL AND SADDLE. 57

another of the heroes of Estremadura, — Francisco Pizarro. A
tomb is here shown in the church as that of the conqueror of
Peru, upon which reclines his statue in armor; but, having
seen another in the cathedral of Lima said to be his, I took
the liberty of doubting its genuineness. Pizarro was of hum-
ble origin, the son of a swineherd, and is said to have been
suckled by an Estremenian sow, — an appropriate nurse for a
native of this province, though somewhat humbler than that
of the founders of ancient Borne. His house is near the plaza,
easily to be recognized by the statues of Indians in chains
on its front and at the corners.

Leaving Trujillo, we diverged from the main road, as I de-
sired to see more of the country ; and passed the night at
Caceres, which rivals Cincinnati in the rearing of swine. The
country around it is fruitful and picturesque, pleasantly con-
trasting with that we had been travelling. The houses of the
Estremenian aristocracy have a feudal aspect, their portals
being decorated by shields of the armorial bearings of their
owners. The district is fertile, and produces the finest wheat,
fruit, and wine. The streets of Caceres are neat and clean,
well watered by running brooks : and there are some Roman
remains, objects of antiquity being found in the vicinity,
which are doubtless genuine; for the Spaniards, unlike the
Italians, have not sufficient ingenuity to reproduce these arti-
cles of virtu.

From Caesar's camp — the name is derived from Castro
Ccesaris — we had a most delightful ride past old Gothic
castles, Moorish alcazar, and Roman ruins, to Alcantara ;
which ancient town, with its crumbling walls, and thin, flank-
ing towers, its grim old castle, weather-stained houses, and
narrow streets, on its bold eminence hanging over the Tagus,
would delight an artist like Prout or Ruskin. As all the
world knows, this ancient town was founded by the celebrated
military order of Alcantara, under the rule of St. Benedict.

58 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Amongst those mixed orders of monks and knights which
shed so much lustre on the middle ages, the Benedictines
were foremost in arms, as in erudition. Like the Templars,
these knights, originally poor, became rich and powerful ; and,
exciting the jealousy of the crown, the king was appointed
their grand master two centuries after their foundation. His
Majesty found no difficulty in disposing of the superfluous
wealth of the order; which, having fulfilled the object of its
existence, soon fell into decay. They have left here a splen-
did convent, containing their church, with the tombs of many
of the soldier-monks.

The great sight of Alcantara is the bridge, which, I think, is
the most remarkable in the world. It bestrides a gorge with
walls of solid rock, through which rolls the lordly Tagus ; and
the river expands into a lake above it. It is very deep, and is
said to rise in a freshet to the height of a hundred and
seventy feet. There are six arches, the two central ones hav-
ing a span of a hundred and ten feet; and it is two hundred
and ten feet from the parapet to the water in the ordinary
stage of the latter. The architect has given his name to
posterity in the inscription near the entrance : —

"PONTKM PERPKTUI MAXSTTRrM TN SErTTT,A
FECIT D1VIXA XOliIL.18 AUTE LACElt."

IX.

organization of military orders, it is well known,
dates from the time when not only Spain, but Europe
also, was threatened with an irruption of Moslems, whose
efforts were directed towards the supplanting of the cross by the
crescent. The domination of Christianity being threatened,
there sprang into existence the Templars, the Hospitallers,
the orders of Santiago, of Calatrava, of Alcantara, and others,
which, with true military foresight, carried the war into Asia,
there to fight the battle to the end, their vows compelling
them never to make peace or truce with the infidel. The cru-
saders, who are generally but erroneously thought to have
been barbarians, fanatics, or enthusiasts, gave to the European
peoples the much-required ascendency over the hordes of Islam.
They stimulated the military spirit and strengthened it, united
Christians fraternally, and made of them a homogeneous and
compact brotherhood. They developed the dormant senti-
ments of the human mind, improved the condition of the serfs,
and slowly but surely undermined the feudal system. They
created navies (witness the knights of St. John), encouraged
commerce and manufactures, and gave society a powerful
impulse in the direction of enlightenment.

For themselves, the military orders renounced all those
things which command the exertions of mankind, being vowed
to celibacy, poverty, and obedience, many of them condemning
themselves to perpetual mendicity. They also spread them-

69

60 KEEL AND SADDLE.

selves everywhere, laboring to convert souls to Christ, and
devoting their most strenuous efforts to release the host of
captives held by the Mussulmans.

Centuries afterwards, the existence of the Church was again
threatened by the schism of Luther : and, the ancient orders
having faUen into decay, a brilliant Spanish knight, laying
aside his carnal arms, betook himself to a preparatory course
of prayer, seclusion, and fasting ; after which he founded the
order of Jesus.

At this juncture fleshly arms were unavailing to help the
Church : the age required her defenders to put on the armor of
learning and astuteness. The mere mention of the name
of the Jesuits suffices to invoke vague fears in the minds of
many, — a sentiment of indefinable dread, as of an irruption
of savage Indians, like those who threatened society in the
early days of our republic. We are as alarmed at the estab-
lishment of a school or college of this order as if it were to be
made the means of our enslavement. Shutting our eyes to the
vast and increasing corruption of the whole machinery of our
government, the open bribery, the lack of education, and the
predominance of ruffianism, in our governing classes, we cry
out against the dangers of priestcraft with furious animosity.

Men do not despise the Jesuits: they fear them. It may be
seen immediately, that he who attacks them believes himself
opposed to no insignificant adversaries. In his heart he be-
lieves that every thing relating to the Jesuits is a grave matter,
. and that the least indulgence of them is dangerous, the least
negligence fatal.

The spirit of the age is essentially one of scientific and
literary progress ; and, knowing this, the Jesuits act accord-
ingly.

For this reason so many learned and eminent men are found
among them. Their knowledge and influence are always ex-
ercisecl in extending the beneficen,t teachings of the Church,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 61

in pursuance of which they have already encompassed the
globe ; and having preached the gospel everywhere in person,
and not by the distribution of books, they return to add their
valuable treasures of experience to the common fund of science
and education. These are the crimes for which they cheerfully
endure obloquy, persecution, and death.

At the establishment of the military orders, the world cried
out, "What an unnatural alliance ! — the ecclesiastical character
combined with that of the soldier! How incompatible !" But
it was soon seen that those institutions were in conformity
with the natural order of things at that period. It was a
strong remedy for immense evils, which threatened anarchy,
and retarded civilization. And so with the foundation of
the order of Jesus. Men could not successfully combat their
arguments, or vanquish them in the field of controversy : so
they cried out against their influence over the mind.

And still the most prejudiced cannot deny that these orders
of which I have spoken all acted with utter self-abnegation,
and that through their efforts much good was effected, while
in their institution and action we plainly see the finger of
God directing them.

Returning from this little digression, we will resume our
itinerary.

After leaving Alcantara, we were ferried over the Tagus,
and took the road to Placencia, passing through Coria, famous
for its Pelasgian walls thirty feet in thickness, and a remark-
able tower of the middle ages, a fine example of Gothic con-
struction, with corner bartizans and machicolated summit.

We entered Placencia to the sound of the cathedral-bells
sweetly singing the Angelus, and rode at once to the posada,
which we found very comfortable. We were served with an
excellent supper, including a dish of the delicate trout of the
•v,. vicinity, famous for their size and flavor, and with the fine
wine of the country. The attendance of the most beautiful

6

62 KEEL AND SADDLE.

young woman I had yet seen in Spain gave a zest to our
repast.

She was the moza of the posada : she had large, liquid black
eyes, regular and pearly teeth, a brilliant complexion, perfect
figure, and an abundant glossy black chevelure.

Even the usually demure Juanito was carried away by the
exquisite loveliness of this Estremenian maid, and acknowl-
edged, that, even in his own province of Andalusia, he had
never seen such a vision of beauty ; " Although," he added
deprecatingly, "Que lastima falta el meneo Andaluz ! "
(" What a pity she should want the graceful carriage of an
Andalusian ! ")

In the morning, leaving Juanito to enjoy the society of the
fair maid of the inn, I sallied forth with a person I picked up,
who had nothing better to do, — there are always plenty such
in Spain, and really intelligent ones too, — to view the sights
of Placencia.

The old town is indeed " pleasant ; " for even at this time,
after travelling in all parts of the wide world, both before and
since my visit to it, never have I beheld such varied changes
of view, and all charming. It is girdled by the silver Xerte ;
and the twin-valleys of the Valle and La Vera are perfect
gems of landscape. The artist will find here all scenic acces-
sories that he could wish. The river, the rocks, and the dis-
tant mountains of the Sierra de Bejar and de la Vera ; the
ancient houses, domes, and steeples of the town ; the " flanking
walls that round it sweep ; " city, castle, aqueduct in ruins, and
picturesque figures to embellish the foreground in appropriate
costume, — are all to be found in perfection. Let me add that
the climate is mild and salubrious, and the sky of the true
ultramarine tint ; and he would be hard to please indeed
who could fail to find here subjects for his pencil. The
scenery far exceeds that of the famed Valley of the Arno in
its variety and richness.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 63

This part of Estremadura is fertile, the land producing
abundant cereal crops, — vegetables, the vine, and the olive.
Its grazing-grounds furnish rich pastures for cattle. There is
good shooting in the neighborhood, and the mountain-streams
abound in trout. No wonder Charles V. selected it as the
place of his retirement, familiar though he was with every
part of Europe. I ascended to the roof of the cathedral, and
stood entranced by the magnificent and smiling panorama of
which it is the centre ; and again climbed to it on the morn-
ing of my departure to carry away with me the freshest pos-
sible memory of a spot so lovely. Thirty years have elapsed
since that last look, and in the interval I have seen many no-
ble prospects ; but I reflect upon fair Placencia as surpassing
them all.

It is eight leagues from Placencia to Yuste, — the retreat of
Charles V., — which I intended to traverse rapidly ; but was
delayed by involuntary halts to contemplate the ever-recur-
ring and varying prospects on the way.

We passed and exchanged frequent salutations with parties
of women and girls, who walked, balancing baskets on their
heads. They were carrying provisions to their male relatives,
the vine-dressers, who were busily engaged in harvesting the
grape-crop in the vineyards of the Valley of the Vera. Mer-
rily they tripped along, clad in their picturesque costume, with
stockingless, sandalled feet, beguiling their way with songs
and laughter. It seemed like a scene in a comic opera.

Arriving shortly after noon at the farm of Magdalena, in
sight of the old Convent of San Geronimo (the emperor's cele-
brated retreat), we lunched there on our own fare ; after which
we ascended to the monastery. I was so lucky as to secure
as cicerone here Father Alonso Caballero, a venerable priest,
who took holy orders, as he told me, in October, 1778, and who
showed me all the interesting historical places of the convent-
ual remains, which are much dilapidated.

64 KEEL AND SADDLE.

The convent is entered by a gateway ; near which stands a
patriarchal walnut-tree called the nogal grande, under which
the august recluse has doubtless often mused. The church
and the chambers occupied by the self-dethroned emperor are
still intact. From the former a door communicates with his
bedroom ; and the chamber has a window which commands a
view of the altar, so that the bed-ridden monarch could wit-
ness the elevation of the sacred elements in the mass. Here
also hung the celebrated Gloria of Titian, as we are told,
which accompanied the emperor in his journeys, and upon
which his last gaze was devoutly fixed.

Charles desired that this picture should be hung wherever
his body rested after death; and his son, Philip II., trans-
ferred it to the Escorial. Here is the cabinet of the emperor,
and several other rooms with fireplaces in them, — a domestic
luxury rarely seen in Spanish houses, — the brasero being
mostly used. The windows of these rooms command fine
views ; and they communicate by a cloister with the private
garden, in which still may be seen the antique sun-dial of
which we read in history. The emperor did not long enjoy
the pleasant retirement he had promised himself here ; for he
died in about a year after taking possession.

In reviewing the splendid career of this monarch, — if I
may be permitted to express an opinion, — I should say that
his history has yet to be written, so unjust, querulous, and
fault-finding have been those who have hitherto undertaken
the work. This is especially true of those writers who are ac-
cepted authorities in this country ; for in considering his mo-
tives and actions during the wars he waged, — chiefly religious
wars, — they do not seem to take into the account the customs,
manners, and sentiments of the period. In laying down his
imperial power, Charles has given us the evidence of his great-
ness, even had he not been born to a throne; for the step was
caused by no morbid misanthropy or disgust with the world in

KEEL AND SADDLE. 65

which he had played so important a part. His retirement
was due to sheer weariness of worldly matters, and a desire
for absolute repose and reconcilement with Heaven, before
whose tribunal he knew he must soon appear to render an ac-
count of his stewardship. He wished to finish his reign of
sovereign power, during which he had overrun civilized Europe
with his hardy Spanish veterans, by making expiation for his
sins and misdeeds before it was too late. He set about this
immediately upon arriving at Yuste, and, as the event proved,
not a moment too soon for his salvation.

By the kind permission of the good prior, I slept in the
bed-chamber of the mighty dead, the darkness of which was
somewhat relieved by the solitary altar-lamp shining through
the window, undisturbed by any visions of its former occupant.
In the early morning I attended the first mass, being one in a
small congregation consisting of two or three friars, a couple
of poor women, and a beggar. At the termination of the ser-
vice, I bowed a long farewell to the altar upon which had been
fixed the last dying gaze of the great Charles V. Then,
mounting our beasts, we slowly recommenced our wayfaring
eastward, and soon bade adieu to Estreuiadura, and entered
the kingdom of Toledo.

0»

X.

OUR next halt was at Talavera, situated on the Tagus, in
the midst of a beautiful and fertile vega, or plain, and
famous as the scene of the battle which raised Sir Arthur
Wellesley to the peerage. As this battle is so well described
in Napier's excellent "History of the Peninsular War," I
merely refer the reader to it, as giving a trustworthy account
of the success of a campaign which seemed to be already lost
by Wellington, but in which Fortune, proverbially fickle in
war, deserted the French eagles, to perch on his victorious
standards.

At Talavera I reluctantly discharged my mozo, Juanito,
who was long enough away from his relatives, and who, as
he told me, quiero a descanzarme ("wished to rest himself").
I then sold my animals, and proceeded by diligence to Madrid,
stopping a couple of, days at Toledo by the way.

I shall not describe the capital city of Spain, as it has been
already " done " so often by travellers and tourists ; and will
merely say that there are many other cities of the Peninsula
decidedly preferable to it on every account. It is notoriously
an unhealthy place, the climate being subject to extreme
variations of heat and cold ; and even its native inhabitants
have to go about embozado (covering the mouth with the
cloak).

The country around Madrid is desolate and inhospitable,
and its situation as the geographical centre of Spain is a dis-
66

KEEL AND SADDLE. 67

advantage ; for all supplies coining seaward must be trans-
ported at immense expense, which makes it the dearest
capital in Europe. The wealth of the Spanish capital in art-
treasures is inestimable : the museo contains pictures, even
to name which makes the eyes of the connoisseur glisten
with delight. Here is that celebrated canvas of Velasquez,
called familiarly " Las Lanzas," a representation of the sur-
render of Breda, in which is produced the curious effect of
an actual glitter of the lances of the guard, so magical are the
lights and shadows. Here also is that picture of Raphael,
known as the " Pearl," sold by Cromwell to Philip IV. for
two thousand pounds, and which the present British Govern-
ment would be too happy to repurchase at fifty times that
amount ; the Pasmo de Sicilia, the virgin of the fish ; and
Titian's Charles V., said to be the finest equestrian portrait in
the world. The emperor is arrayed in the suit of armor still
to be seen in the royal armory.

The collection of arms and armor in the royal palace is un-
paralleled ; and, in viewing it, one is carried back at once to
the heroic age of Spain. These swords and lances were
wielded by her noblest champions ; these helmets covered the
heads of her wisest warriors; and beneath these corselets beat
the hearts of those forever famous in history, and embalmed
in poetry. The silent but eloquent records are for the most
part genuine ; and the flaunting, moth-eaten banners on the
walls were actually taken from the enemies of Spain, either
Moslem or Christian.

As to society, there are few dinner-parties except in the
foreign diplomatic circle ; for Spaniards seldom entertain in
that manner anywhere, but en revanche there is an institu-
tion of a national character well worthy of imitation. I
refer to the tertulia, which, as in other Spanish cities, is held
every evening somewhere. It is simply a meeting, by tacit
understanding, among persons of the same social circle at

(jg KEEL AND SADDLE.

each other's houses in rotation. The lady of the house is
the supreme autocrat of the evening ; even its master consid-
ering himself merely a guest for the time being. Having
assembled at a rather early hour, the ladies amuse them-
selves with cards, conversation, games, or music, as they
please ; and, the gentlemen arriving later in the evening, these
amusements are succeeded by quadrilles, waltzes, and contra-
danzas. One of these latter is known in America as the
German ; but, years before its introduction here, I have often
seen it danced in Spain at tertulias under its true name,
— the contradanza EspanoL No entertainment is given
at the tertulia, the rule being rigidly enforced, un vaso de
agua y buen venida (" a glass of water and welcome "). Thus
many who move in the best society, who may indeed possess
fine houses, but who cannot afford to provide expensive
entertainments, are not therefore "tabooed" from social
enjoyment. This plan also saves many heart-burnings, Mrs.
B. not being able to triumph over Mrs. C. in the elegance and
richness of her viands.

While awaiting the orders of the American minister I had
ample time for seeing all the sights of Madrid, and to take
part in the amusements of the capital. I also visited Cordova
and other places of interest in the South. Granada I had
already seen ; but, as they are so well described by others, do
not deem it necessary to go into details of my observations.

As the time of my departure drew near, and as it was more
desirable than ever to travel on horseback on account of the
civil war then raging in the Peninsula (the diligence, in
addition to its other inconveniences, being alternately robbed
by Christino guerrillas and Carlist bands), I frequented the
Puerta del Sol daily in order to secure attendants for my
journey. While watching one day the empleomaniacos
(office-seekers) and others who are perpetually engaged in
polishing the pavement of this well-known rendezvous of the

KEEL AND SADDLE. 69

Madrilefios, chance threw in my way the very man I wanted.
Absorbed in my contemplations, I was saved from contact
with a donkey laden with firewood by a robust person who
swung the little animal clear of me by his " narrative " in a
nonchalant style, chaffing his driver at the same time in
terms any thing but complimentary. I accosted this person
for the purpose of thanking him for the service he had
rendered me, excusing myself for my abstraction.

All Spaniards, high and low, have a grave, high-bred air;
and my unknown friend was no exception to the rule. I saw
at the first glance that he was of a class very popular in
Spain, although not of the highest respectability. He was
evidently one of the aficion, or what we should call the
" fancy ; " in short, a toreador (bull-fighter). He seemed
about forty. His round bullet-head, bald on the forehead and
temples, surmounted by the Andalusian montera ; his mutton-
chop whiskers on a face otherwise cleanly shaved ; his club-
cue, tied with a black ribbon ; broad shoulders ; tapering
waist ; and long and sinewy arms, shown to advantage by the
majo costume; together with an indescribable jaunty air, — all
proclaimed the aficionado. There was a roguish twinkle in
his one eye ; and I observed that he had a halting gait, the
left leg being bent under him, and shorter than its companion.

Having frequently seen their exhibitions in the arena, I
had acquired a strong sympathy with this class of people,
inspired by the very manly and dashing qualities they display
in pitting their skill and agility against the mere brute force
of the toro (bull). In none of our modern games can be
witnessed a greater display of virile courage, nerve, and
dexterity, than in the Spanish bull-fight. Deprecate it as we
may, it is a nobler test than the disgraceful " P. R." tolerated
among us. To see a young, graceful, elegantly-attired man,
armed only with a slim, shining sword, facing a huge, fero-
cious brute of twenty times his strength, awaiting his onset

70 KEEL AND SADDLE.

with a keen, determined glance, relying only on his eye and
agile muscle, yet confident in his ability to slay his powerful
adversary, is a truly thrilling spectacle. And when the hull,
confiding in his strength, lowers his stately head, levels his
long sharp horns, and rushes upon the man as if to sweep
him out of existence in a moment, the toreador, stepping
lightly aside, masks the furious animal with his capo, ; while in
the same instant the keen weapon, quick as the levin bolt,
pierces the spinal process at the nervous centre, and the bull
falls headlong, to die in a few minutes.

I soon found that my new acquaintance was accustomed to
travel ; having already, in the practice of his calling, visited
every part of the kingdom, even so far as remote Galicia.

By his references I also learned that he was a man of
courage and tact, and as honest and truthful as could be
expected. He was, too, versed in cookery and in foraging,
— no mean accomplishments in Spain. He had recently
been severely hurt in an encounter with an enraged bull
while essaying some foolhardy exploit ; and his lameness thus
occasioned disabled him from appearing in the cuadrilla. He
was therefore open to an engagement, which I soon concluded
with him. The name of my squire was Manuel Blasco y
Gusman, a native of Triana, a suburb of Seville.

I was amused by hearing the name of Gusman, one of
the noblest lineages of Spain; but found that this was no
uncommon instance of a lofty patronymic borne by a person
of humble station. The great lords of ancient days often
gave their names to their slaves upon manumitting them ; and
some of these latter, becoming famous, were ennobled in their
turn : which complication has led to such confusion in names,
that some travellers have asserted that all Spaniards are of
noble blood.

Our preparations having been completed, El Tuerto (" the
one-eyed ") and myself, followed by a mozo with a pack-mule,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 71

rode out of Madrid by the fine road connecting the city with
the Escorial, which runs for some distance along the Manza-
nares. The noble bridge across that stream, with its tall
bridge house and stone statues, would command admiration
if it only bestrode a river; for the muddy gutter which creeps
beneath its high arches seems ashamed of its own insignifi-
cance. The country is barren, and the population sparse and
poor, in the neighborhood of the capital ; and we were glad
to see at the fifth league the palace of the Escorial rising in
dreary, solitary state by the side of the lofty sierra.

By invitation of an officer I had known in Madrid, I spent
the rest of the day and night in this magnificent monument
of the Spanish kings, which contains a royal palace, a mon-
astery with a superb church, the remains of a fine library, and
the royal mausoleum. But I will not attempt a description
of the Escorial ; for I experienced no other sentiment than that
of oppression amid its gloomy splendors. It is seldom used
by the court, and remains a monument of misspent millions,
which, used in almost any other way, might have unspeakably
benefited the nation.

We resumed our journey at early dawn, taking the road
which ascends circuitously the steep and rugged sides of the
Guadarrama range, and arriving before noon at San Ildefonso
and La Granja. This chateau en Espagne is called the
" castle in the air," standing nearly four thousand feet above
the sea-level, and is a truly noble royal residence, amid
magnificent alpine scenery, rocks, forests, and waterfalls, sur-
rounding it in picturesque profusion ; while above all towers
the lofty peak of Peiialard to the height of eight thousand feet.

It was here that the imbecile Ferdinand VII. in 1832
signed the obnoxious decree revoking the repeal of the Salic
law ; which, however, remained but a short time in force, when
he again repealed it, and declared Isabel II. his successor ;
which measure caused, ultimately, the civil war now raging.

72 KEEL AND SADDLE.

*••'"' " * >

The artificial accessories of this royal retreat, including the
irrigation of the gardens, cascades, canals, and fish-ponds, are
wonderfully complete. There is a model farm in a sunny
nook called La Quinta de Quitapesares (" The Farm of away
with Melancholy"); and here the modern Dido — Queen
Christina — first met her Eneas, — Munoz. From La Granja
we descended the mountain by easy grades ; and Manuel Blasco
enlivened our wayfaring by his version of the story of Dona
Christina, her palace intrigues and bold strokes of policy with
silly old Ferdinand VII., his brother Don Carlos, and the
soldier Munoz. His being also the popular version, I shall
give it hereafter.

Before he had finished we arrived in the plain, and saw
before us the crumbling walls of Segovia, and the pointed roofs
of the towers of its curious alcazar, called by Le Sage, in
" Gil Bias," a tower ; though there are several included in the
edifice.

Having refreshed and restored ourselves, we took our way
to the old castle, which I was curious to inspect. It exhibits
both Gothic and Moorish characteristics, and rests upon a
Roman foundation. Its keep is tall, square, and massive, with
turrets at the angles, dating back to the twelfth century, and
is replete with historical souvenirs.

From its lofty walls the worthy and magnificent Isabel the
Catholic was proclaimed Queen of Castile ; and from its gate-
way she issued alone, on horseback, for the purpose of quelling
a mob, which she awed into subjection by her majestic appear-
ance and strong will.

Here Ripperda, the daring minister of Charles V., was con-
fined ; and here came Charles I. of England, a suitor for the
fair hand which he failed to obtain; and here, too, Gil Bias
was confined, as we are told in his veracious autobiography.

Beside this picturesque and venerable relic of the past
glories of Castile there is a chapel of the Templars, a Geron-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 73

imite convent, a curious little church built on the model
of the Holy Sepulchre, and the ancient mint, which in former
times used the water-power of the Eresma, — a brawling little
brook running through the town : it is probably the oldest
mint in Europe. The Roman aqueduct, which was in use up
to 1433, when it was repaired by Isabel the Catholic, is also
interesting, especially to an engineer.

XL

AT Segovia I met with Col. Eeyes, an artillery-officer,
with whom I had acquaintance ; and as he was conduct-
ing several batteries and some recruits to the army of Espartero,
and politely invited me to accompany him northwards, I ac-
cepted the offer, rather to the discontent of my squire El
Tuerto, who was a Carlist in politics, although he warily con-
cealed his opinions. We accordingly set forth together ; and
passing by Medina del Campo and Simancas, in the castle of
which latter place Col. Reyes kindly aided me in inspecting
the interesting archives there deposited, arrived on the fourth
day at Valladolid.

In the fifteenth century this was without a peer among
Spanish cities. Says the proverb, " Villa por villa, Valladolid
in Castilla ; " but now it is sadly on the wane. Its inhabit-
ants boast themselves as genuine old Castilians still, and are
grave and formal, all hidalgos, and, let us add, terrible bores.
Its very stones are historical, as is well known.

I here took leave of my kind friend Col. Reyes, who passed
through without stopping, but not until he had introduced
me to the governor and some other valuable acquaintances.
Having seen the various sights of the old capital of Castile,
I prepared to prosecute my journey, and held a council with
Blasco on the subject of our route to the north.

The man of the single eye preferred the road via Lerma,
with which he was familiar ; " And besides," said he, " we shall

74

KEEL AND SADDLE. 75

not in that case have to travel with chapelgorris (Christine
militia) and other gente sin verguenza (low fellows), but
shall have the road to ourselves." He also urged that the
main road to Burgos was infested with highwaymen and
rateros (foot-pads) ; adding with a lofty air, " I, sir, who
address you, am accustomed to the society of cabatteros (gen-
tlemen) and toreadores valientes (valiant bull-fighters), and,
rather than travel with such persons as we have been with for
the past week, would much prefer to be alone with your worship
and Pedro the mozo."

These and other cogent reasons were urged with such force
by El Tuerto, that I accepted his view of the case, although
with some suspicion that he had a private purpose to serve
by diverging from the usually-travelled road.

On the dawn of the day appointed, I arose, performed my
toilet, broke my fast, and awaited the appearance of Blasco
with the beasts ; but he did not arrive. At last Pedro came,
and said that my squire had been arrested on the evening
before, and was now in prison awaiting trial for his life by
a military commission. His alleged crime was an aggravated
assault on a sergeant of artillery. In Spain, summary execu-
tion so often follows an arrest in times like the present, that
I was seriously alarmed, and immediately went to visit poor
Blasco at the carcel militar, expecting to find him in the
depths of despair. On the contrary, he was neither penitent,
nor in the least alarmed ; carelessly puflfing his cigarette, and
laughing at the suggestion that he was in peril. He regretted
extremely that he should have caused me the least inconve-
nience, but expressed no apprehension for himself, declaring
that the commanding general would set him at liberty imme-
diately on my application to that effect. " For," said he, " you
know, teniente mio (my lieutenant), that we are attached to
the honorable American legation near su mayestad catolica,
and so are exempted from all ordinary interference while travel-
ling on service."

76 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Blasco was right in his conclusions ; for my application to
the military governor was successful, and the order for his lib-
eration given immediately.

This little episode, as frequently happens in like cases, was
brought about by the universal casus belli, — a woman. My
equire was a devoted ladies' man, as I had already observed ;
and, on the evening in question, was engaged in the kitchen of
the Fonda up to a late hour, entertaining the cook. The
sergeant of artillery entered, and joined in the conversation,
doubtless, as M. de Trop. The seance continued peaceably
enough until an argument arose between the two gentlemen
concerning the merits of their respective provinces, the ser-
geant being a Galician.

After disparaging Andalusia and her sons at some length,
the sergeant became personal, and drew forth a bitter retort
upon the Spanish Boeotia (Galicia) from El Tuerto, who, an-
swering the reflections on his province and the contemp-
tuous allusion of the sergeant to his single eye at one blow,
with characteristic wit repeated the proverb, " En la tierra de
los ciegos, el tuerto es rey" ("In the land of the blind, the
one-eyed is king").

The soldier rejoined by applying to Blasco a name which
signifies a bull which shrinks from encountering his enemies
in the arena, — un blando. To call a man by such a name in
the presence of a lady was to inflict an unbearable insult. The
aficionado rose from his seat, moved towards his rival, and
addressed him: "Know, friend sergeant, that I am not a
blando, but that I am duro chocante, camicero y pegajoso "
(a bull which kills horses, upsets the bull-fighters, and clears
the arena), in the slang of the plaza de toros, at the same time
giving the soldier a sound box on the ear.

The latter sprang up, and drew his sword ; but the one-eyed
man, quick as lightning, disarmed and overthrew him, placing
his foot upon his neck. The cook screamed murder. Servants,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 77

soldiers, and outsiders generally, hurried to the scene, but stood
shrinking before El Tuerto, who faced them, his foot on his
foe, his one eye glittering with rage, and his sabre describing
the moulinet round his head.

At last the patrol appeared, commanded by an officer : but
even to him Blasco refused to surrender save on terms of
honorable capitulation ; these being, that his opponent should
be placed in arrest, while he himself should be put in the
military prison, instead of the calabozo, the latter being the
place of incarceration of vulgar criminals. His conditions
being allowed, he gracefully yielded his sword to the officer.

This weighty matter having been brought to a satisfactory
conclusion, our little cavalcade set forth, contrary to our usual
custom, in the afternoon ; and that night we slept at the vil-
lage of Olivares, at the house of some one whom I took to be
an intimate friend of Blasco, judging from the hearty accolade
between them upon meeting, — a welcome also warmly con-
firmed by the friend's wife, with whom my companion's rela-
tions must have been exceedingly friendly ; for he retired with
her to the kitchen, and, by their joint efforts, an excellent
supper was soon provided. Next morning we took the road,
and arrived before noon at Aranda on the Duero. Here my
guide turned aside from the camino real running from Ma-
drid to Burgos, and led us through a most romantic country, in
which each step revealed an ever-changing prospect, to Penar-
anda del Duero, which we reached about two, P.M.

Having rested at the humble posada of the little village, I
strolled forth to inspect a ruined castle I had observed
perched upon a bold hill, the base of which was surrounded by
dilapidated, Prout-like houses, about which lounged beggars in
Murillo-like rags.

" This," said Blasco, " is Penaranda de la perra, from a
tradition which says that the Moors once held the castle obsti-
nately, being besieged by the Christians with unavailing
7*

78 KEEL AND SADDLE.

patience, until one day some of the besiegers saw a bitch
(perra) move out of a hole, which was a secret passage into
the castle, and which they marked well. That night a forlorn
hope entered the stronghold by this passage ; and, the assault
being given at the same time, the fortress was taken, and its
garrison put to the sword. The castle is the casa solar, or
family seat, of the Zunigas, counts of Miranda."

Ourselves and our beasts having been refreshed, we mounted,
and rode leisurely northward through a fine country. Having
a long ride before us, and being inclined to conversation, I
dropped alongside of my squire, and offered him an excellent
puro of Havana, which always put him in a cheerful mood. The
Spaniards, generally, retain many of the Oriental customs and
manners, and, among these, have a great weakness for stories,
both as narrators and listeners. This is especially true of the
Andalusians, who, born in the land of the Moors, and nearer
the sun than others of their countrymen, partake in a greater
degree of the temperament of their former Moslem masters.
These cosas de Espana are often mentioned by foreign writers ;
and all the world knows that these propensities have brought
upon the Andalusians the satire of their neighbors, the
French: indeed, but for them, we should never have had
the wonderful exploits of Don Quixote, as detailed for the
world's amusement by the immortal Cervantes.

Blasco was somewhat given to story-telling : and, having
gently urged him to exercise his power in this direction, I was
not surprised that the dreamy air of the autumnal weather
seemed to stimulate his faculties, as he withdrew his cigar
from his lips, and answered me, " It always saddens me,
seiior mio, to contemplate such ruins as those we saw to-day,
even for the fortieth time ; and I cannot help figuring to my-
self the persons who once occupied them, who wept, or were
merry, and who, perchance, thought the same thoughts that
we are thinking, or suffered the same griefs and enjoyed the
same pleasures that are ours.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 79

" The place we have just left behind has its traditions of a
past generation ; and I shall be happy to relate to your wor-
ship, if you have the patience to listen to a story of the
country, a tale of events which happened in the very neigh-
borhood."

I gladly assented to the proposition of my worthy squire ;
and Manuel Blasco, signing to Pedro to approach nearer in
order to give him what he knew would be a gratification, be-
gan his story. It is impossible for me to give the reader an
idea of the air and gesticulation of the narrator, or to convey
to the ear his sonorous tones as he rolled out the magniloquent
Castilian sentences of his romance ; but I will endeavor, in
the following chapter, to give his story an English transla-
tion.

XII.

" "Ti T~ANY years ago, when Moor and Christian were still
_1_V_1_ contending for the possession of the Peninsula, the
town and castle of Penaranda were held in fief by Baltazar
de Zuniga, Count of Miranda. You may yet see his totnb
at the colegiata in the village, and that of his wife, with
others of that ancient family.

" Count Baltazar was a dissipated young man, and passed his
time mostly in hunting and chivalric employments, varied by
frequent carousals with his riotous and debauched companions,
making love to all the pretty women of the neighborhood, and
availing himself to the letter of his feudal derechos de senor
(seignorial rights). After succeeding to the titles and estates,
he began the burning of the candle at both ends ; and his
course of profligacy at last alienated from him all his respect-
able friends. The only ones who remained to him were the
drunkards and gamblers, whose society he seemed to prefer.

"As might be expected, he finally squandered all the ready
money left him by his father, and all he could borrow on his
personal property ; but the fief of Penaranda, being a mayo-
razzo (entailed estate), he could not alienate.

" His creditors, the Jews, held the count in great dread ; for
when they came up to the castle to dun him for the payment
of their dues, loaned on usurious terms, he worried them griev-
ously with his boon companions, and sometimes kicked them
down the superb staircase you were to-day admiring into
80

KEEL AND SADDLE. 81

the court -yard, whereby their bones were often seriously
damaged.

" I pointed out to your worship, as we passed it, the ancient
Convent of San Domingo de Silos, the tutelar of which worked
many miracles in his lifetime, and delivered so many captives
from slavery in Africa, that, in gratitude, they performed pil-
grimages thither to hang up their chains at the gates. The
abbot was not free from the popular contempt for the Jews, and
upheld his neighbor the count in this treatment, who, he de-
clared, was an example of feudal and seignorial excellence in
his just scorn of the Hebrews ; and he counselled Don Baltazar
to go on with the good work. He further told the count, that,
in order to carry out this work, he ought to take the cross
without delay, and proceed to Granada, where our sovereign
lord and lady, Ferdinand and Isabel, were prosecuting a holy
war. There, while slaying infidels, he would undoubtedly,
at the same time, acquire great store of treasure, wherewith,
returning to his native heritage, he might enjoy ana vida
descansada (a lifelong rest).

"Don Baltazar, convinced of the excellence of the worthy
prelate's advice, both spiritual and worldly, immediately assem-
bled his vassals, put on his armor, and departed for the land of
the infidel, to the great joy of all his neighbors and most of
his friends. Arriving at his destination, he set to work vig-
orously, slaying Paynims, sacking towns and villages, and
conducting himself in all wajrs like a valiant Christian knight.

" In his new vocation, which was very agreeable to God, the
king, and himself, Baltazar gained great renown as a good
servant of the Church and the State, after the fashions of the
times. He also amused himself much in that distant country ;
oftener giving a golden ducat to a pretty girl than a silver
penny to a beggar.

" Several years passed by, and people had almost ceased talk-
ing about the count and his mad pranks, when he suddenly

82 KEEL AND SADDLE.

re-appeared in Penaranda with a numerous following of vassals
and foreign slaves, bearing great treasures of gold and precious
stones, the spoils of war. Those who had come back without
any thing save wounds and holy relics were consumed with
envy at the count's good luck. But, you know, this is an
envious world. The very first meritorious act of the count
was to add liberally to the wealth and possessions of the Con-
vent of San Domingo ; to atone, as he avowed, for the sins of
his early life. It has also come down to us, that, from a prof-
ligate and graceless youth, the count grew to be a good and wise
man, and was completely reconciled to God and the Church.

" The king made him a commander of Santiago, and captain-
general of the district ; and he conducted himself with such
discretion in his high office, that he was soon greatly beloved.
Instead of being choleric, as in his youth, he became gentle
in his deportment ; and the change confirmed the saying, that
'gray hairs bring wisdom.' The only thing that seemed to
ruffle his temper was disrespectful mention of God or holy
things : any one guilty of such an offence he would drive
ignominiously from his presence, the old Adam re-appearing as
in the days of his hot youth.

"He repaired and added to the castle, and furnished it anew
in a royal manner, astonishing the neighbors with its Sara-
cenic splendor. He greatly ameliorated the condition of his
serfs, established mills on his domains, and increased his
flocks and herds. By stimulating agriculture, and otherwise
improving his seignorial fiefs, he soon augumented their value
and population ; and at any time could have summoned to his
banner a thousand fighting-men from his own domains. In
such good works did the Count of Miranda grow oMoipon his
estates, governing his vassals paternally and benevolently, and
administering impartial justice as their lord and suzerain.

"Sometimes, however, he put in execution his right to hang
incorrigible criminals, when justly convicted before his judg-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 83

ment seat ; thus vindicating the majesty of the law and his
feudal privileges. He was especially rigid with all robbers and
marauders, saying that they were to be regarded as wicked
beasts of prey; and summarily consigning them to the gallows,
which stood before the castle-gates. Justice having been dealt
upon them, he permitted their bodies to be buried in consecrated
ground, declaring that they were sufficiently punished by the
loss of life. He continued to persecute the Jews, it is true,
but only when they were bloated with ill-gotten wealth: and
until they had acquired it by usury, and waxed fat, he let them
severely alone ; then he pounced upon and despoiled them for
the profit of the church and the king, reserving a small share
for himself. This, with grim wit, he styled tax-gathering.

" Thus this bluff and hearty lord acquired the esteem of every
one in his district, rich and poor, great and small, by his pro-
tection of life and property. The consciousness of duty per-
formed gave cheeriness to his visage ; and the Abbot of San
Domingo coming to visit him one day, and remarking this,
accosted the count with, ' Ha, ha, my good lord ! you are
merry: you must have had some one hanged to-day.'

" When, attended by his train, mounted on the strong white
hackney he brought from the land of the infidel, he passed
through the village, the children would run fearlessly by the
side of the cavalcade, and shout, ' Ah, ha ! this is court day ;
here is the Senor Coude : buenos dias, Senor Conde ! ' And
the old count would smile graciously, and say to them gayly,
' Amuse yourselves well, my children.' And they, ' Ah ! si,
si, Senor Conde.' Thus every thing seemed to prosper with the
count, who was now an old man with a venerable white beard.

" In those days, besides the marauding bands, the curse of
the period, who avoided the count's jurisdiction, there roamed
about vagabond gitanos, or Egyptians, as they do now in
Spain, who are not of our blessed faith, mocking at it when
they can do so with impunity ; and one of these bands came

84 KEEL AND SADDLE.

to Penaranda on the Eve of St. John. They encamped on the
plaza, and were seen by some of the villagers scoffing at the
statue of our Blessed Lady ; one of them, a very pretty young
woman, dancing and posturing in very abbreviated garments.
For this sacrilege it was agreed by the authorities that she
should be burned as a wicked spawn of the Devil, — a fate not
uncommonly meted out to these heathens in those days.

" But the old count came to the rescue, and by his logic
proved to the people that it would be a much more agreeable
thing to our Blessed Lady to rescue this poor lost soul from
the claws of Satan, and to convert her to the true faith, as the
fagot would only consume her body, without burning the devil
who inhabited it, and her soul would be lost forever.

" The matter having been referred to the archbishop, the
count's reasoning was found to be sound, his conclusions wise,
and even canonical, and in conformity with Christian charity
and the holy evangel. But the ladies of the town and other
respectable persons loudly proclaimed, that, by the change of
programme, they would be deprived of a gran funcion ; also
urging that the proposed conversion of the gitano would be
merely nominal and insincere. Perhaps they had reason ;
for the girl, deprived of her liberty and the free air and light
to wh.ich she had been accustomed, was as impatient of duress
as a young kid, and passed her time in weeping, refusing food,
and bemoaning her hard fate continually. ' So,' said the gos-
sips, 'she will pretend to be converted, if only to recover her
liberty.'

^ To this the count replied, that, should the unfortunate
Stranger wish to embrace our religion, he would give them a
much more splendid ceremony than the auto dafe they antici-
pated, making it the occasion for even royal festivities ; and
that he himself would stand godfather to the new convert.

" The Morisca did not hesitate between the fagot and bap-
so she was placed in a convent near by, the sisterhood

KEEL AND SADDLE. 85

of which undertook to prepare her for her new destiny. Here,
in due season, she took the vows of holiness, and was baptized
and confirmed ; while at the first ceremony there was a great
feast, with dancing and revelry, in honor of the Church and the
new convert, at the count's expense. The promise of the
latter was thus nobly redeemed ; the festivities being indeed
of royal magnificence, and even commended by the party origi-
nally in favor of burning.

" Now, at the baptismal feast, the count, acting as godfather,
had for comadre (godmother) a very beautiful young lady, the
daughter of one of his oldest and most valued friends, an an-
cient comrade in the Crusade, the Lord of Aranda.

" Your worship well knows how sacred and intimate with us
in Spain is the relation between compadre and comadre, and
how that connection confers peculiar privileges. The Lord of
Aranda, having assumed the cross at the same time with the
count, was taken prisoner, and was still held captive for lack
of means to pay the heavy ransom demanded, which was the
greater in that he was a most doughty and valorous knight.
His wife, the Lady of Aranda, had pledged all the revenues
of her fief with the Jews, hoping to accumulate the necessary
sum, and lived with her daughter in humble lodgings in the
village, with scarce a blanket to her bed, but proud as the
Queen of Sheba, and brave as a lioness in the good cause she
had undertaken.

" Seeing her ill-concealed distress, the old count bethought
himself of acquiring the right to serve this admirable lady by
inducing her daughter to become his comadre at the baptism
of the Egyptian ; for those old nobles were very punctilious.
The worthy Count Baltazar had another object in view; and
at the wedding clasped a heavy gold chain round the neck of
his fair comadre, to which he would have been but too happy
to add his broad domains, his good sword, his white beard,
and his white hackney, so well known in the country round.
8

XIII.

Count of Miranda had of late years perceived that
JL he actually required a wife to assist him in ruling over
his manorial possessions ; and it saddened him to think of his
approaching senility, while his desires governed him tyran-
nically as do those of all old men. So, during the festivi-
ties, he thought of his wounds, and of the eighty years that
had passed over his head, and of the feebleness that pre-
vented him from joining in the dance, in which the young
Lady of Aranda floated with the grace of Psyche. The count
also reflected, that, if he was ever to enter into the state of
matrimony, he had no time to lose ; and, to shorten a long
story, he proposed to the mother of the young lady, was
accepted, and the marriage followed in as short a time as
it could be accomplished by the rules of the Church.

" The lovely Inez de Aranda was only eighteen at the time
of her union with the count, beautiful as a vision, graceful
as an Andalusian, as full of life and gayety as a young
mountain-kid, and blessed with a physical organization that
defied all bodily fatigue. She would run all day long in
chase of butterflies, or romping with her young companions ;
and then dance all night, if permitted, without the least sign
of weariness. With all her gayety and high spirits, she had
been most carefully brought up by her mother; and never
had an unmaidenly or impure thought been permitted to
enter that snowy bosom. She had not the remotest idea of
86

KEEL AND SADDLE. 87

the passion of love, both her mind and hody being virgin to
every coarse sentiment ; and she needed only wings to make
her fit for a denizen of paradise.

" Such was the fair young creature who suddenly quitted her
humble abode to become the Countess of Miranda. Lowly
and innocent as she was, she did not escape the ill-will of all
the young ladies of the district. They envied her for the
long blonde tresses, of which she had made a net to catch her
superannuated lover ; for the robe of rich stuff trimmed with
gold, a la antique ; the magnificent jewels presented by him ;
and even the great golden chain of the Saracen emir, which
now bound her irrevocably to the old count.

" The nuptials were celebrated in a manner becoming the
lordly house of Zuniga, the old nobleman being attired in a
gorgeous wedding-suit. But the contrast between her bloom
and his wrinkles, his tottering gait and her agile and graceful
movements, was too palpable not to be noticed and com-
mented upon. At the sound of the marriage-bells ringing a
joyous peal, the gay procession, and all the pomps and vani-
ties of the ill-assorted wedding, the ladies before mentioned
were seized with sudden desires for crops of slain Moors, a
deluge of rich old noblemen, and even a repetition of Egyp-
tian baptisms.

" Immediately after the marriage, the Lady of Aranda re-
ceived from her son-in-law a notable sum of money; with
which she set out for Granada to ransom her husband from
captivity, escorted to the frontier by the armed vassals of Mi-
randa. She took leave of her daughter, giving her into the
charge of the count with a recommendation of implicit obe-
dience to his will, entreating him at the same time to guard
her well.

"I may as well say here, that she succeeded in her mission,
and returned in due time with her lord, who had contracted
the leprosy in his imprisonment : and, as lepers in those days

88 KEEL AND SADDLE.

were secluded in order to avoid contagion, his wife, faithful
unto death, accompanied him into his retirement in a distant
district ; where I shall leave them.

" The nuptial rejoicings lasted for three days, to the great
delectation of every one ; and, on the fourth, the count car-
ried his bride in great pomp to the castle, in which the
marriage-couch had been solemnly blessed by his friend the
abbot.

" Coolly reflecting on the step he had taken, the intoxication
which prompted him to it having passed away, the poor old
count began to perceive that he had not exactly done the
proper thing in allying his senility to so much youth and
vigor. He accordingly attempted to supply his shortcomings
by all the means in his power, and to supplement them by
extraordinary indulgences. He gave up to the countess the
keys of all his treasures and stores, turning over to her also
the full control of his domains and hereditaments ; and she,
poor thing ! wholly inexperienced in the affairs of life, and
innocent of heart, was in an ecstasy of delight at the gal-
lantry of her goodman. The fair Inez, thus suddenly placed
in possession of every thing heart could desire, and gifted, as
we have said, with high animal spirits, betook herself to
field-sports, and was soon engrossed in all the mysteries of
hunting and falconry.

"She chased the deer and the roe on plain, valley, and
mountain-side, mounted on the famous white hackney presented
her by the count ; and was never so happy as when flying her
falcons and attending to their training. The poor old man at
first attended her to the field, but was soon compelled to give
up that pleasure in consequence of his increasing infirmities,
after having been several times unhorsed in the vain attempt
to renew the sports of his youth. Then, in the evenings at
home, she would be seized with a desire for dancing, and
would force the ancient castellan to accompany her ; but he,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 89

loaded with his warm and heavy clothing, soon wearied of
the violent exercise. At last the count was compelled to
abstain from these saltatory entertainments altogether, and
content himself with holding the candle for her to dance.

" Now, when the count had ceased to accompany his wife on
her hunting and falcon-flying expeditions, he had delegated a
page to perform those duties for which he was too enfeebled ;
aud Dona Inez was not slow to perceive the immense difference
between the eighty years of her husband and the twenty-
three of this young gentleman. Although not of noble
birth, the gallant was a skilful hunter and falconer, as well as
an accomplished cavalier, sitting his horse upright as a dart
beside her rein, as they flew together over hill and dale, chas-
ing the deer, or following the lofty flight of her falcon. The
contrast and the preference of Inez could not but be apparent
to the count, who for the first time felt the pang of jealousy :
so he dismissed Enrique from the post of lady's page, and
sent him to display his accomplishments as a horseman
among the ganado mayor (horned cattle) of a distant estate.
He then replaced Enrique by a mere boy of his own lineage,
of comely appearance.

" The countess resented the exile of her favorite with all
the malevolence of the female sex. It now was, ' My dear
count, I want this ; ' ' My dear count, I want that ; '
' Come, husband, let us do this ; ' ' Come, my lord, let us go
to this place.' Vamos, count, here, there, and everywhere,
until the poor man was more worn by her fantastic longings
than he ever had been by any experiences in his life, although
he persisted in discouraging her outdoor amusements.

"Inez, meanwhile, feeling the want of something to do,
employed herself with giving reading-lessons to her page ;
and this exercise usually took place while the old count took
his siesta in the middle of the day. At that hour, the huge
antique chair in which the old lord usually sat was unoccupied ;
8«

90 KEEL AND SADDLE.

and, naturally, the countess filled it, while the page sat upon
a footstool near by to receive his lessons. The page proved
an apt scholar, I ween; for, after a time, he watched anx-
iously for the hour when his beautiful mistress seated herself
in the great seignorial throne for her task, while the old count
loudly snored on a neighboring sofa.

"Damiano de Zuniga, the page, as beseemed a youth of gen-
tle blood and knightly qualities, was exceedingly devout and
loyal in the observance of his religious duties ; and, some
weeks after he had begun to receive lessons from his fair mis-
tress, he resorted, as was his wont, to the abbey, to confess
himself to his spiritual adviser. What passed between them
was under the seal of confession ; but Damiano retired from
the interview pale and distressed, and immediately sought
the presence of the count.

"The old warrior was seated at the entrance of the castle on
a stone bench, watching his armorer, who furbished the har-
ness, whose weight the ancient knight could no longer bear,
but which he insisted upon keeping polished as brightly as a
mirror. He contemplated these arms with much pleasure, as
they reminded him of many a stoutly-contested field and gal-
lant tourney; their hacks and dints being silent records of his
doughty feats of arms.

" Damiano approached, and bent the knee to the count, as
his suzerain ; at which the old lord was somewhat surprised.
'My lord the count,' said the page, 'send these people
away ; for I have something for your private ear much con-
cerning you and myself.' The servitors, having retired out of
ear-shot, stood respectfully watching the grim old warrior
and the youthful page, who stood in a humble attitude before
him, his fine eyes cast down, his head bared ; and seemed to
communicate something to the count which moved the very
depths of the old man's soul, for he suddenly turned pale as
a ghost.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 91

"Instantly, however, he recovered his self-possession, and
with it, apparently, all his youthful strength ; for he seized
from among the arms that lay there a heavy steel mace with
which he had struck down many a Paynim.

" He brandished the mighty weapon aloft as if it had been
a mere straw ; then stayed it for an instant over the head of
the boy, who retained his attitude of humility, but raised his
eyes fearlessly to those of his master. His firm bearing
doubtless saved his life : for, casting his weapon far from him,
the old man uttered a passionate exclamation ; and, by his
gesture, the wondering servitors saw that he commanded the
page to leave him. This the boy did, withdrawing sorrowfully
and slowly, retiring down the steep descent leading to Pena-
randa.

" The count proceeded in the contrary direction, taking the
path to the gardens, in which the countess was then walking.
The servitors cautiously followed, and overheard the angry old
man accost her with dreadful imprecations ; telling her the
truth was known, and she must prepare to die, and that he
had already killed Damiano.

" The shock of the announcement threw the fair dame into
a dead faint. Her women rushed to the rescue, and carried
her into the castle.

"The count then raved, and tore his beard, accusing him-
self of killing his wife by his cruelty, and despatched mes-
sengers in every direction to seek the page, in order to show
her he was alive ; but the boy was nowhere to be found. He
was last seen by a peasant, from whom he borrowed a horse,
which he mounted and rode off, telling the countryman he
was going to the land of the infidel to take the cross in pur-
suance of a vow, to accomplish a penance laid upon him.

" The countess learning all this, and that her loved Damiano
had left the country, probably for ever, subsided into a state
of melancholy, from which it was impossible to rouse her.

92 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Her lamentations filled the castle ; and the old count, now
sensible of his many faults and crimes, tried every means of
assuaging the grief of his wife in a parental manner. Noth-
ing he could do, however, would console the countess for the
loss of the petit page d' 'amour ; and her radiant charms soon
paled under the shadow of her grief.

" In those times, the secrets of the inner life of the nohility
were seldom known beyond the walls of their castle : so that all
these circumstances I have related did not come out until long
after they happened, when the actors in them had all passed
away.

" Thus it was that the true history I am recounting to your
worship was preserved by the gossips, and handed down by
them to our times, long after the deaths of the fair Inez and
her child."

" Child ! " said I : " what child ? Was there a child ? "

Just at this moment the slanting rays of the setting sun
fell upon walls and towers, and the single-eyed story-teller
informed me we were about entering Lerma.

This is a fine old town, situated upon the little River Arlanza,
in a lovely country, abounding, I was told, in game both finny
and feathered, but little frequented by travellers. It conferred
the ducal title upon the celebrated cardinal minister of Philip
II., and contains a splendid palace built by him. We spent
one day here, in order to make some repairs in our travelling
equipments ; and I improved the opportunity to inspect the
palace and other mementoes under the guidance of an excel-
lent cicerone provided for me by Blasco. That worthy was
absorbed in his visits to his old friends during our stay, but
was punctual in starting on the following morning ; and at
noon we stopped for lunch at the small hamlet of Madrigalejo.
When we were fairly on the road again, Blasco signified that
he felt like talking, and resumed his story : —

" Yes, your worship, there was a child. It arrived in the due

KEEL AND SADDLE. 93

course of time, much to the delight of the mother; and the
circumstances of its birth were unknown to all outside the
castle. The count had provided for that ; for in those times
inconsiderate scandal might compromise the life of an offender:
so the old man received all the credit of its paternity.

" To any one, however, familiar with the fine ingenuous fea-
tures of the page Damiano, the similarity to those of the
beautiful and lusty infant was too apparent to be denied ; and
the old cuckold must have felt very strangely at the likeness.

" So the news went through all the country-side that the
Count of Miranda had still vigor enough to leave a son and
heir to the name, titles, and estates of the Zunigas.

" Inez conducted herself with the strictest propriety. Not a
word was breathed abroad to her discredit ; and all her time
was occupied with the care of her child. The poor, decrepit
old count seeing the boy daily and hourly, and witnessing the
love of the mother and the gambols of the innocent little
being, from sheer force of habit ended by loving him also,
and would have resented any wrong done to him as earnestly
as if he had been his own child.

"Inez, considering herself now more than ever bound to
Damiano, continued to humor the old man ; and, after the
custom of those ladies who hoodwink their lords, rendered him
so consented, that he lived altogether in the bosom of his
family. One day, however, he was sitting in his great chair,
his wife and the child playing together near him, when he sud-
denly fell back, exclaiming, ' Ah ! Inez, my love, my Inesilla !
it grows dark ! I can't see thee ! ' and, saying it was night
very early, he slept the sleep of the just.

"The great and powerful lord was gathered to his fathers;
and Inez mourned for him as for a parent, fell into melan-
choly, and would not listen to a proposition of a second mar-
riage, although her friends strongly urged it. She was in the
prime of her youth, and an excellent parti ; but she devoted

94 KEEL AND SADDLE.

herself to her child in her widowhood. This seclusion and
celibacy greatly astonished people ; for it was not known that
she had a heart-spouse, and that she was a widow in senti-
ment as in fact : for she had heard nothing from Damiano
since he had taken the cross, except a vague rumor that he
had heen killed, which caused her many sleepless nights.
The countess thus lived for fourteen years in the memories
of a few weeks of love and happiness, and her son had attained
the age of some months less, when she received one day a
small party of visitors come to the castle to pass the day.
Seated in the old count's great chair, her favorite seat, she
was conversing with her guests, when the young count, her
son, came running into the hall, blooming as a rose. He was
more like the page than ever, resembling his putative father in
nothing except the name he bore. He threw himself on his
mother's neck, exclaiming, '0 dear mother, here are stran-
gers ! I have just seen a pilgrim in the court-yard who
kindly embraced me.' — ' Ha ! ' said the countess, turning to
the boy's attendant, 'have I not forbidden you to allow my
son to speak to strangers ? Go ! I discharge you from my ser-
vice ! ' — ' Alas, sweet lady ! ' said the servant, ' the holy pil-
grim wished the dear young count no harm ; for he kissed him,
weeping bitterly all the while.' — 'He wept,' said she: 'ah,
it is his father!' And, with these words, she leaned back
her head in the great chair fraught with so many memories,
and the color deserted her cheeks.

"The guests all pressed about her, thinking she had fainted,
and applied all the usual restoratives ; but the heart of the
poor lady had ceased to beat forever. No one could ever learn
whether her death was caused by sudden joy at the unex-
pected return of her lover, or by fear that he had a second
time left her.

"At the funeral ceremonies of the Countess Inez, which were
marked with all the pomp observed when a member of the

KEEL AND SADDLE. 95

house of Zuniga is taken away, a pilgrim was present, who,
though still young in years, hore the traces of much hardship
and sorrow, and who, when the fair body of Inez was entombed,
suddenly left the place. This was Don Damiano de Zuniga,
who, driven to despair by the death of his sweet mistress,
completely lost heart, and, seeking for his woes the consolations
of religion, became a monk in the Monastery of Santo Domingo
de Silos."

As my friend Manuel Blasco ended his story, the twilight
deepened ; for the close of the autumnal day and the end of our
long ride approached together : but I had no time for musing
on the loves of the fair Inez and the gallant young page, as
we saw before us the lights of a large town, and soon, clatter-
ing over an ancient bridge, entered the famous old city of
Burgos.

XIV.

BURGOS, like Venice or Prague, still seems in the condi-
tion of centuries ago ; and we feel in her streets that we
should not be surprised at meeting her citizens walking abroad
in jerkin and trunk-hose, or a procession of mail-clad knights
on horseback. It was the cradle of the Castilian monarchy.
It rose : but its decay followed soon after its efflorescence ; for,
the Castilian kings having removed their court from it in the
fourteenth century, its prosperity was destroyed ; it gradually
declined, and the French invasion by Napoleon completed its
dilapidation.

The venerable old town has a noble seat, rising grandly on
the banks of the Arlanza, with its dominating castle, and the
graceful spires of its unrivalled cathedral proudly announcing
the city to the approaching traveller. This wonderful temple is
well known to all admirers of mediaeval architecture as among
the finest specimens of florid Gothic in the world. It is, indeed,
a " poem in stone ; " and its western facade is probably the
finest of its kind in Europe. It would require a volume to
record all the wonders of this noble fane. The three aisles,
the octagonal dome rising two hundred feet from the pave-
ment, enriched with carvings called the work of the angels,
the sculpture and paintings, the carvings of the choir and
stalls, and the magnificent high altar, fill one with delight
and religious fervor. Although its adornments are profuse;
there is nothing meretricious or overloaded in their general
effect.

96

KEEL AND SADDLE. 97

Besides the cathedral, there is the castle, beautiful in its
decay, and rich in historic reminiscences, several palaces of the
ancient aristocracy, and a fine promenade on the banks of the
river. In the neighborhood is the Convent of Santa Maria la
Real, called " Las Huelgas " (" The Delights "), with its chapel,
in which were once crowned the Spanish kings ; and the tomb
of the Cid.

Being so near, I felt that I must pay the homage of a visit
to the last resting-place of this famous warrior ; and accord-
ingly set forth, accompanied by a friend whose acquaintance
I had made in Burgos, and who, besides being an intelligent
and learned cicerone, was an enthusiastic admirer of the
great Spanish hero. We first directed our course to the Car-
thusian Convent of Miraflores, where there is a royal mauso-
leum erected by the magnificent Isabel with filial piety to the
memory of her parents. The eye can hardly take in all its won-
drous glories. It is sculptured all over with costumed figures,
Animals, birds, and foliage, cherubs, apostles, saints, and angels,
delicately carved in Oriental alabaster, and illuminated by
painted glass of gorgeous tints. As said my good friend,
"Faltan ojos para mirarlos" ("One wants eyes to see them
all").

Continuing our route to San Pedro de Cardena, we alighted
in front of the noble gateway, above which the Cid, mounted
on Bavieca, rides down the hostile Moors. No one was ever
allowed to mount the noble steed after the death of her mas-
ter; and here she lies buried. The tomb of the Cid bears
the following epitaph, composed, it is said, by Alonso the Wise,
who also caused the tomb to be built : —

"BELLIGER INVICTIS FAMOSUS MARTE TRIUMPHIS
CLAUDITUR HOC TUMULO MAGNUS DIDACHI RODKRICUS."

Here are also the tombs of his wife Ximena, and their two
o

98 KEEL AND SADDLE.

daughters, Maria Sol and Elvira, queens of Aragon and Na-
varre. His only son was killed at the battle of Consuegra,
with others of his faithful followers, including Alvar Fafiez
Minaya, his cousin, whom the Cid was wont to call his right
arm.

Having passed several most agreeable days in Burgos and
its vicinity, our little party set forth, intending to make our
next halt at Logrono ; sleeping one night on the road at a
hospitable estate of another friend of Blasco, — a retired
aficionado, who, having given us an excellent breakfast,
after many affectionate accolades to my squire, sent us on
our way with vayan ustedes con Dios. We saw a cloud of
dust ahead ; and found that it proceeded from a column of
troops, of which we soon overtook the rear-guard. They were
Carlist infantry. We were not permitted to precede this
guard, the officer in command saying he was compelled by his
orders to prevent any one from doing so ; and were forced to
linger along in their rear among the usual camp-followers,
almost stifled by the dust. Blasco was instantly engaged in
animated conversation with our new acquaintances, with whose
party, as I have already said, he was in active sympathy. For
my part, seeing a lady in the crowd riding a fine horse, and
attended by a couple of servants, I entered into conversation
with her. She proved to be the wife of the lieutenant-colonel
commanding a Basque regiment, the second in command of
the force before us ; and she informed me that she ahvays
accompanied her husband on the march, and even undor fire.
As she was extremely affable, like all her countrywomen, I
was soon on excellent terms with Dona Florencia Soler; and
we exchanged information about acquaintances in Madrid.

About noon the column halted, and the lady improved the
opportunity to introduce me to her husband. From him and
others we then ascertained that the Carlist force of about nine
hundred was commanded by colonel, the Count of Leso ; and

KEEL AND SADDLE. 90

I learned also that its destination was Logrono, which town
they expected to surprise and capture with some persons of
importance. They had made a forced march from Bilbao for
that purpose. The Carlist troops, whom I now saw for the
first time, appeared to be young, sturdy, active fellows, appar-
ently possessing more of the true military spirit than the
queen's soldiers. They were in the usual dress of the Basque
peasants, and wore the national red beret. The Count do Leso
was very polite to me, regretting that my journey should have
been delayed, but telling me, that, so soon as Logrono was in
sight, we would be at liberty to go wherever we pleased. In
less than twenty minutes the little Biscayans were again on
the road, tripping gayly along with the elastic step of the
mountaineer, so different from the lounging gait of the Chris-
tines. The lengthening shadows soon fell upon the walls
of Logrono, and the column halted : the line of battle was
promptly formed, the skirmishers trotted briskly to the front,
and the whole force advanced at the double-quick to the attack,
under cover of their rifles, shouting gayly ; while their bugles
sounded the charge. A grand guard stationed in the suburbs
was driven in, and we could see the Carlists hotly engaged
with the enemy ; then lost sight of them as they entered the
town, as it appeared to us, pell-mell with the Christines. Blas-
co, Pedro, and myself witnessed the combat from a slight ele-
vation ; and my squire soon told me that the sharp rattle of
musketry, now incessantly heard, came from the direction of
the plaza, the possession of which seemed to be hotly con-
tested. Dona Florencia had left us ; and the one-eyed man
said she had joined her husband in the fight. The fire at
length became scattering, and receded beyond the town ; and
Blasco said we might enter it. We did so, passing in the
streets some corpses and wounded men, but none of the in-
habitants: all were, I was told, shut up in their houses. We
proceeded immediately to the plaza, where we found the Car-

100 KEEL AND SADDLE.

list colonel and his staff surrounded by a number of citizens,
some of whom were municipal officers ; and with these he was
alternately threatening, expostulating, and promising, with
some volubility, after his victory.

The fight had evidently been a stubborn one at this point;
and women (among whom I saw the religious habit) were be-
wailing the loss of some friend, or assisting wounded persons
to a place of security and rest. After mildly congratulating
the Carlist colonel, I retired to the inn on the plaza ; while
Pedro took our animals to the stable in the rear, and Blasco
was going and coming with news in the evening in a great
state of excitement.

He informed me that several persons, whose names I had
never before heard, but whom he appeared to think of conse-
quence, had been taken prisoners ; that the Carlist chief had
ordered the alcalde to provide wine and provisions for his
soldiers, and had laid a contribution upon the town, to be
forthcoming at an early hour the next morning ; and that
Dona Florencia was with her husband, who had command of
the guard posted at the bridge which crosses the Ebro on the
farther side of the town, and by which the discomfited Chris-
tines had retreated.

Wearied by the excitement of the day, I lay down on the bed
without quitting any but my upper garments, and was soon fast
asleep ; for silence prevailed in the town, and only the occa-
sional barking of a dog, or the alerto of some vigilant sentinel,
was distinctly heard through my open window, which looked
directly into the plaza. I must have slept soundly ; for I was
awakened by a terrible noise of shouting and swearing in the
plaza, mingled with military commands and the sound of fire-
arms. I rose, and for a moment stood gazing at the indistinct
masses of men below, and the usual tumult of a heady fight.
A taper was burning in my apartment; and I was admonished
by several bullets singing through the window to extinguish

KEEL AND SADDLE. 101

it ; which I did, retiring to a safer position ; but not before I
saw that the red berets were getting the worst of it, — proba-
bly overpowered by superior numbers.

The dawn soon appeared, and with it my mozo, Pedro, who
came to seek protection from both parties ; and, my valise being
at hand, I put on my uniform, and awaited the issue of events.

The noise of the battle now receded westward in the direc-
tion by which we had come to Logrono ; and the plaza was
deserted, save by the fresh crop of dead and wounded that had
been harvested since the evening before. Looking forth, we
saw a mounted party enter it, at the head of which rode one
whose appearance and bearing proclaimed him a leader of
men. He was (the innkeeper, who had ascended to my room,
informed me) the renowned guerillero, Martin Zurbano.

Soon a sergeant of cavalry came to the inn, stationed sen-
tries at the door, and summoned all its inmates to the presence
of his chief; and we all issued into the plaza, following him as
directed.

The guerilla leader took my passport; upon reading which
— that is, if he could have done so upside-down — he cour-
teously addressed me, and said, that, as a foreign officer, I was
exempt from further interference ; then, turning to the inn-
keeper, he roundly abused him, and afterwards minutely ques-
tioned him as to the occurrences of the previous evening.

Returning to the inn, I went up to my room, accompanied
by Pedro, to view what was going on in the plaza. Blasco
had not made his appearance ; and I began to fear that he had
gone off with the Carlists. While speculating as to what I
should do in case the one-eyed man did not soon appear, I was
attracted by an unusual stir in the square below, and saw,
with horror, my acquaintances of the day before, — Lieut-Col.
Rafael Soler, and his wife Dona Florencia, dragged out by sol-
diers, and placed before the horse of the truculent chief by
whom I had just been examined.
9*

102 KEEL AND SADDLE.

The sight of my agreeable and gentle companion of yester-
day's ride confronted with one whom common report declared
to be as savage and remorseless as the Pyrenean wolf struck
a chill to my heart ; but it was speedily followed by a desire
to save her from the fearful fate that no doubt awaited her.
I knew how cruel and vindictive were the combatants on both
sides in this terrible civil war, in which each party massacred
prisoners, and seldom granted quarter. I hastily descended to
the door, and attempted to open it: but the clatter of the
muskets of the two sentinels, and their crossed bayonets, ad-
monished me that I was a prisoner within the posada ; and
I could only return to my post of observation.

I now saw that the poor colonel was wounded, a bloody ban-
dage encircling his head ; and was told he had also a bullet-
wound in the chest, — probably a mortal one : and I do not
believe that his devoted wife wished to survive him. There
they were, confronted by and hopelessly in the power of the
fierce guerilla, who regarded them with a look in which I
could discern no gleam of mercy; while the unhappy pair
returned his gaze with a proud look of courage as undaunted
as his own.

After a short colloquy, consisting of abuse from Zurbano,
and defiance from the officer, — the wife seeming perfectly
calm and resigned, — the guerilla impatiently waved his hand,
and I caught the words, " Cuatro tiros pasalos, por las armas ! "
(" Take two files, and shoot them ! ") The pair were dragged
away. I could look no longer, and withdrew ; but in less than
two minutes the quick, short commands to a squad, the answer-
ing clank of muskets, and the sharp report of half a dozen
pieces, told me that another cruel and bloody scene had been
enacted in the sad drama then in progress in distracted Spain.

In the Peninsula, war assumes a personal character, and
becomes the expression of petty hates and revenges rather
than .a general contest for great principles. Life is little val-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 103

ued : the prevailing indifference to it, or fatalism, the Span-
iard seems to hold in common with the Moslem. All know that
they owe a death to Nature, and believe that no forethought
or precaution can retard or prevent it when the fatal hour
arrives. Life is daily staked, and all parties conclude to stand
the hazard of the die ; those who win exacting the whole pound
of flesh, and those who lose paying the forfeit as a matter of
course. To heg for or to grant a pardon would be alike de-
grading, as strength is estimated by the blows struck, and
not by those withheld. And thus it is in all civil wars, which
are notoriously more rancorous and vindictive than hostilities
between rival nations.

Martin Zurbano was a native of the neighborhood of Lo-
grono. He early espoused the queen's cause, and fought
bravely in the war. His forces occupied that town when
attacked by the Carlists, and retreated at first ; but, with his
accustomed tenacity and energy, he returned with re-enforce-
ments during the night, and retook the place. He was a fair
type of the Spanish guerilla. He committed many horrible
crimes in the progress of the war and afterwards, the story of
which has been told by French and English writers. After
years of guerilla warfare, he received the reward of his crimes,
by a providential retribution, on the very spot where the Car-
list colonel and his wife were executed, — the plaza of Lo-
grono, — in which place his brother and his two sons had been
already shot.

The next morning I had the melancholy satisfaction of
assisting at the burial, in consecrated ground, of the ill-fated
Solers ; and made arrangements with the euro, for prayers for
their repose. Every thing had become quiet in the town,
Zurbano having gone in pursuit of the retreating Carlists;
and Blasco mysteriously re-appeared at the posada, telling me
that he was well known to the Christino chief, and that he had
kept himself secluded in fear of being recognized. He ad-

104 KEEL AND SADDLE.

jured me by all I held sacred to leave Logrono immediately ;
for, should Zurbano return and find him (Blasco), the guerilla
would not fail to visit him with his vengeance, "in spite of
the fact," said he, " that your worship is the ambassador to the
King of France, and I your major-domo, and, as such, justly
partaking of the sanctity of the diplomatic character."

I gladly assented to his prayer; for I longed to leave a
place in which I had seen nothing but deeds of blood, and
to get upon the road, hoping that, when again in the saddle,
exercise and variety would dispel the gloomy memories of
Logrono. Our beasts were quite rested, and had been well fed
and groomed, thanks to Pedro : so we started at a gallop
from the door of the inn, and were soon in the open country.
Guided by Blasco, we took roads leading to the mountains,
stopping only at insignificant hamlets ; and, without meeting
any more of the bands of the two contending parties, we
arrived in due time at Pamplona.

I remained for a few days in the country of the Pyrenees ;
visited the pass of Roncesvalles, the breach of Rolando, and
other places of interest ; then, crossing the frontier, I went
through Bayonne to Paris, taking Blasco with me, Pedro hav-
ing been sent to the care of a friend of Blasco at Moncada, in
Catalonia, with our beasts, there to await our return to Spain.

During our stay in Paris, nothing worthy of record took
place. I may mention, however, that my Spanish guide,
Manuel Blasco, found but little to admire in France, — not
even the ladies : the practice of the nil admirari philosophy
somewhat surprised me in so devoted a squire of dames.

He was always busy, however ; but, our pursuits not being
always congenial, I saw but little of him, until one day he
came to tell me that he was about to "assist" at a grand ex-
hibition given by the officers of the garrison of Paris, and at
which all the best swordsmen, professors, and amateurs were
expected. I attended on the evening appointed, and was much

KEEL AND SADDLE. 105

pleased with the skill in all sorts of what the French call
armes blanches. Towards the close of the seance Blasco ap-
peared, dressed in a magnificent Andalusian or majo costume,
all silk and embroidery, that he had obtained from the Span-
ish embassy, and in which I could hardly recognize my quon-
dam guide. He gave a fine display of skill with his national
weapon, the sword, successfully encountering some first-rate
swordsmen; also defending himself against the lance and the
bayonet, and against great odds ; finishing by dividing in twain
the carcass of a sheep at one blow of his toledana. He was
decidedly the hero of the exhibition.

Of all the distinguished persons I saw at this visit in the
capital of France, I have preserved to this time the most* agree-
able remembrance of one who considered himself the most
humble among them, — the poet Be'ranger, the Robert Burns
of France.

By appointment, I proceeded at ten, A.M., to the small two-
story house, No. 21 Rue Vineuse, Passy ; and was ushered up
stairs to a landing on the second story, where the maid opened
a door, and I found myself in the presence of the author of the
"Redingote Grise," "Le Violon BriseY' "Le Vieux Sergent,"
" Les Etoiles qui filent," &c. A little man, not more than
five feet five inches in height, but solidly built, with an intel-
lectual head, and silky white hair, arose from an easy-chair, —
the only one in the room, — and forced me to take it. He had
handsome features, clear black eyes, and an expression of
open-hearted benevolence. He wore a rather shabby dressing-
gown, and on his head a little calotte. I felt at once relieved
from all constraint in his presence. Nothing could be more
humble than his surroundings. The little room was darkened,
which led me to suppose that his eyes were weak; but it was
quite airy. A small bed, with plain check curtains, occupied
one end of it; a writing-table with a portable desk, a few
books, and only two chairs, — voila tout I

106 KEEL AND SADDLE.

No pomp of literary display was needed to give interest to
the first song-writer of France or his humble dwelling.

" They will tell of all his glory round the hearth for many a day."

Unversed as I was in literature, I dashed at once upon
something I was familiar with, and mentioned Walter Scott.
Beranger, I found, did not esteem the " Wizard of the North "
a great or a correct writer. He said he had detected many
blunders in his works, especially in " Quentin Durward,'* in
which the life and character of Louis XI. had been misrepre-
sented. He admitted, however, that his works contained many
grand pictures of splendid and interesting groups; remarking,
that, in the novels, the interest of the reader attaches itself
naturally to some other individual rather than to the hero or
heroine. He instanced "Ivanhoe," in which Rebecca is the
centre of interest. This he considered a defect. With Scott's
poetry he said he was not familiar, as he did not understand
the English tongue.

After a conversation of half an hour, I rose to take leave ;
and the poet accompanied me to the stairway, and kindly
shook hands at parting.

Beranger was at that time really a power in France. His
chansons had an immense circulation, and doubtless had a'
mighty influence in bringing about the revolution of 1830.
The cJiansonnier did not view the government of Louis
Philippe with approbation, and refused every thing like favor
at its hands ; which conduct increased his popularity with the
masses. His retirement and preference of the peaceful enjoy-
ment of his chimney-corner (coin de feu) did not proceed
from a cynical or misanthropic affectation, but was from the
genuine desire for repose after a busy and lately not unre-
warded life.

At the funeral of Lafitte the banker, which was attended

KEEL AND SADDLE. 107

by the king and the princes, the royal coaches passed un-
noticed : but, when Beranger's carriage appeared, it was wel-
comed with a burst of acclamation, and hundreds strove for
the honor of drawing him in triumph; but he, with difficulty,
persuaded them to desist.

The service upon which I had been sent having been per-
formed, we returned to Spain by the way of Perpinan, joined
Pedro and our animals at Moucada, and continued our journey
to Madrid by way of Valencia, Murcia, and Granada.

In the latter city I had an opportunity of seeing the famous
torero Pepe (Joseph) Montes, the preux chevalier of the
arena. This worthy was performing, or, as we should say,
"starring," in the provinces; and Blasco informed me we
might perhaps never again see such sport as would now be
afforded us in the plaza de toros of Granada. Conducted by
my squire, I entered the sombra, or shaded seats, in which
were gathered representatives of the aristocracy, including the
officials, two-thirds of those present being beautiful ladies ;
while below us raged, roared, and gesticulated the " great
unwashed" of Granada.

Montes, adoptive father, it was afterwards said, of the no
less celebrated Lola, was a man of wealth, and then about
forty years of age, a little above the ordinary height, of grave
aspect and demeanor, lithe as a serpent in his movements,
and of a pale olive complexion. He was a native of Chicland,
a suburb of Cadiz. His eyes had the look of alertness I have
seen in men, who, like him, often owe their lives to their
instant perception of danger. No doubt the immense success
of this Andalusian hero, the Bayard of his heroic profession,
was due rather to his coolness and consummate knowledge of
his art than to muscular strength. Blasco told me, that, as
soon as Montes saw a bull, he could form an accurate judgment
of the animal's character, — whether its attack would be
straightforward or strategetic, whether its sight was good or bad,

108 KEEL AND SADDLE.

%

and whether it would be cautious or impetuous in its charge.
Thanks to this sort of intuitive perception, he was always
ready to meet the beast with an appropriate defence. Never-
theless, as he often pushed his temerity to foolhardiness in a
spirit of bravado, he has had countless hair-breadth escapes in
the arena, and bore many scars of his victorious conflicts, hav-
ing on several occasions been carried grievously wounded from
the ring.

On the first day I saw him his costume was magnificent, —
silk and velvet, embroidered richly with gold in the most
elaborate style of the majo dress of Andalusian dandies.
Unlike most matadores, Pepe Montes did not content himself
with simply killing the bull when the signal was given by the
presiding officer. He superintended and directed the combat,
going to the assistance of those toreros who were in danger,
many of whom owed him their lives. Consequently, his
cuadrilla were devoted to him, knowing he would never desert
them ; and he has often extricated picadores and banderilleros
from the horns of the savage bull. He has been known to
colear, or seize by the tail, an enraged bull, which, having
disembowelled the horse, was seeking the death of the rider,
sheltered by the body of the prostrate animal ; and, while he
turned swiftly the enraged beast three or four times, the man
had time to escape amid the frantic applause of the spectators.
I saw him once plant himself firmly in front of an enraged
bull, and fix his eyes upon him, standing with crossed arms,
while the animal stopped suddenly in his charge, and seemed
subjugated by that keen and unshrinking gaze. Then came
a torrent of wild applause, shouts, vociferations, screams of
delight, from the fifteen thousand spectators, who stamped
and danced upon their benches in wild excitement. All the
ladies waved their kerchiefs, and every hat was thrown
aloft ; while Montes, the only cool, collected person in the
vast multitude, enjoyed his triumph silently, slightly bowing

KEEL AND SADDLE. 109

with the air of a man who felt himself capable of much
greater things.

0 ye silvery-toned singers, ye fairy-footed dancers, all ye
who flatter yourselves that you have excited popular enthusi-
asm ! you have never heard Montes applauded by a crowded
circus. Sometimes he would be encored ; and a pretty girl
near me called out to him, " Vamos, Senor Montes ! vamos,
Pepito ! — you, who are so gallant, do something for the sake of
a lady, — una cosita" (a small matter). Then Montes leaped
lightly over the head of the bull : turning quickly, he shook
his red cloak in the animal's face, and, by a rapid movement,
enveloped himself in it with folds of most graceful drapery.
Thus he invited the charge, which he avoided by stepping
nimbly aside.

On the second day of the bull-fight at Granada, Montes
received, in spite of his popularity, a rather rough proof of the
impartiality of a Spanish public, and of the extent to which
it pushes its love of fair play towards beasts as well as men.

A magnificent black bull of the Sierra Morena, whose graz-
ing ground was in sight from the arena, was turned into the
plaza de toros, entering with a dashing, defiant mien. There
was a murmur of admiration among the connoisseurs. Here
were all the points to be desired in a fighting bull : his horns
were long, thin, and sharp ; his legs small and nervous. His
broad chest, heavy dewlap, and mighty shoulder, united to a
symmetrical form, indicated vast strength. His fixed, star-
ing eyes and gallant bearing gave promise of unyielding
courage.

He rushed upon the picador nearest him ; and over went
horse and man, — the former dead ere he measured his length
in the arena : then fell another horse ; and the men had just
time to save themselves by leaping over the barrier. In a
quarter of an hour this bull killed seven horses. The chulos
were frightened, and kept near the barricades, shaking their

10

HO KEEL AND SADDLE.

muletas at a respectful distance, jumping over the barricades
when he approached them. Montes himself appeared discon-
certed, and once placed his foot upon the ledge as if to follow
them. The spectators shouted with delight, and paid the bull
the most flattering compliments. Presently a new exploit of
master toro elevated their enthusiasm to the highest pitch.

Another venturous picador cantered towards the bull, and,
lowering his lance, pricked him in the shoulder. The latter
bowed his stately head, thrust it under the horse, and with a
mighty effort lifted both horse and rider, and placed his fore-
feet on the ledge ; then by a second lift he threw both horse and
man clear over the barrier into the corridor surrounding the
arena. This unheard-of feat drew down thunderous bravos.

The bull was now master of the field of battle, and paraded
the arena in triumph, amusing himself with tossing the dead
horses. The stable was empty : there were no more horses.
The chulos and banderilleros sat upon the barriers, not
daring to approach the bull, and harassed him with their
barbed darts. Impatient at the inaction, the people shouted,
" Las banderillas, las banderillas ! — Fuego al alcalde ! " de-
nouncing the alcalde because he did not order them to attack
the conqueror. At last a bander illero advanced, and planted his
little barbed weapon in the neck of the bull, and ran away quick-
ly, pursued by the animal. In leaping the barricade his arm
was grazed, and the sleeve of his gay jacket torn by the horn
of the bull. The spectators again applauded " Viva, viva, bravo
toro ! " but, in spite of the applause, the alcalde gave the signal
to despatch the bull.

Blasco informed me this was against the laws of tauroma-
chy, which require that the bull shall receive four pairs of
banderillas before he is left to the sword of the matador.

Montes now came forward amid the hooting of the vast
assembly, who were not well pleased that so valorous an ani-
mal should be despatched without further baiting.

KEEL AND SADDLE. Ill

Instead of advancing, as was his wont, into the middle of
the arena, the 'matador placed himself within twenty paces
of the barrier, in order to be near a refuge in case of accident.
He was pale, and did not indulge in the little coquetries of
courage, or dalliance with danger,, which have procured him
the admiration of Spain as a finished knight of the bull-ring.
Taking his stand firmly, he slowly unfolded the scarlet muleta,
and levelled his Toledan blade, shaking the former at the en-
raged beast. The great black bull, in his turn, lowered his
mighty horns, and rushed upon the man. For a brief instant
the dust obscured the pair : then the bull was seen prostrate
at the feet of the man, dead, as if struck by a thunderbolt.
Moutes stood proudly erect over his foe, holding his sword, its
glittering sheen now dimmed with blood.

The keen weapon, directed by the firm hand and wrist of
iron, and guided by the unerring eye of the matador, had en-
tered the forehead and pierced the brain, — a thrust forbidden
by tauromachian rules. The matador should pass his arm
between the horns of the beast, and stab him in the nape of
the neck, severing the nerves concentrated in the medulla ob-
lonyata. It is the most dangerous thrust for the man, but
gives the bull a chance for his life.

Blasco instantly detected the foul stroke ; and, while he was
explaining it to me, a storm of indignation arose from the
multitude, who had also discovered it. A hurricane of abuse
and hisses was poured out upon the matador. Butcher, thief,
brigand, assassin, executioner, were the mildest of the compli-
mentary epithets hurled at him. " To the galleys with Mon-
tes ! " " To the fire with Montes ! " " To the dogs with him ! "
were some of the amiable .ejaculations of the assembly. Not
content with mere words of vituperation, some excited persons
threw into the ring fans, hats, sticks, water-jars, and every
other available missile.

Montes bit his lips with rage until they bled ; and his pale

112 KEEL AND SADDLE.

visage was fairly green with fury. He affected, however, to be
unmoved, and leaned gracefully upon the sword, which he had
cleansed from blood with the sand of the arena.

Such is popularity. The day before no one would have
thought it possible that Montes, the Bayard of the ring, the
consummate torero, would have been thus severely punished
for the infraction of a rule rendered doubly necessary by the
agility, vigor, and extraordinary fury of the animal with which
he had to contend. Another bull was killed after this one, but
was despatched by another matador, almost unnoticed, amid
the continued indignation of the spectators.

The fight over, I wished to be introduced to the famous
torero ; and Blasco, who knew him well, went with me to the
Fonda for the purpose ; but Moutes had left. Angry and half
'ashamed, he had hastily got into a calesin with his cuadrilla,
and left the city, shaking the dust from his feet, and swearing
that he never would again return to Granada.

From Madrid I returned to Gibraltar, having accomplished
the mission I was ordered to perform, and rejoined my ship.

XV.

DURING my tour in the Iberian Peninsula, I was pro-
foundly impressed by its loveliness and romantic char-
acter, even while conscious of its abasement and degeneration ;
and I have, both before and since that time, witnessed the prog-
ress of a similar state of things in the colonies of which Spain
and Portugal are the mothers and progenitors. As I have
seen with my own eyes how the policy of both her and their
rulers has checked all progress, and engendered the same fatal
decay in parent and offspring, I may be excused for saying a
few words on that subject.

The causes of the ruin of Spain are, indeed, countless : and
its history will always be one of the most instructive ; for in it
may be found every principle of policy and every form of ad-
ministration by which a country should not be governed.

Throughout the country, and particularly in Estremadura^
there are dreary wastes, cut up by barrancas, called despob-
lados (unpeopled districts) ; and these are the fruits of the
exterminating policy pursued by the rulers who succeeded
Charles V. When we reflect that their desolation is the con-
sequence, not of invasion or conquest, but of monstrous mis-
government, and contempt for all sound principles of human
policy, we are filled with wonder and commiseration.

History tell us, that, from ten millions in the time of Philip
II., the population of Spain decreased to about six millions
in that of Charles II., with a continuing depletive flow ; and

10* 113

KEEL AND SADDLE.

that the Cortes told the latter monarch in an address, that the
nation could not prolong its existence for another half-century
unless the progress of the evils that afflicted it was arrested.

Spain had already lost three millions of her most industrious
inhabitants in previous reigns by the expulsion of the Moors,
which was characterized by Richelieu as the most stupendous
blunder ever achieved by any government, which transformed
an earthly paradise into a sterile desert.

Then came the emigration to America, which carried off
several millions more to gather the riches of Mexico and Peru.

All these drains upon the population caused a general neg-
lect of agriculture and the mechanic arts, and, ultimately,
beggary and famine. The writers of those times relate the
most painful stories of the sufferings and death from hunger
of even the highest and richest people, the royal table being
scantily supplied, and the Court often going hungry. The
army and navy were in a deplorable condition. Their offi-
cers were frequently seen begging in the streets with that air
of proud dignity characteristic of and inseparable from the
Spaniard. The nation that sent forth the Armada for the con-
quest of England now owned but a score of paltry, rotting
hulks at Cadiz and Carthagena. Philip IV. could raise only
about fifteen thousand troops for the invasion of Portugal ; and
consequently that country was lost to the Spanish crown.

We cease to wonder at the decadence of this great and
haughty people, who once rivalled imperial Rome, when we
examine some of the processes of which it was the result.
One of these was the barbarous expedient of the Duke of
Lerma, of debasing the coinage, under Philip III. Silver and
gold coin vanished : prices rose, and large sums were paid in the
debased coin, which was made a legal tender by royal edict ;
and the barter, the badge of barbarism, re-appeared. Not
a third of the king's revenues ever came into his coffers, owing
to the corrupt system of farming them to dishonest officials.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 115

The imprudent sovereigns we have referred to, aided by
the prejudices of their proud and insolent subjects, — still to
be seen in the Espanolismo of the present day, — completely
extinguished the commerce, agriculture, and industry of the
country. The tourist in Spain sees hardly a tree ; and, asking
for the reason, is told that Spaniards hate trees. But this is
not the true reason for the arboreal destitution. This is a
consequence of legislation, — the enactment of laws against
the enclosure of fields. These laws, known as the laws of the
mesta, protected the grazing interests at the expense of all
others ; and were enacted by the influence of the nobility and
the great landed proprietors in order to make the kingdom an
immense grazing-ground for their numerous herds of merino
sheep and horned cattle, under the pretext that these animals
constituted the real wealth of the country. This policy, so
ruinous to small land-holders and tenants, was persisted in to
the last, and exists even now in some parts of the New World.
But, not satisfied with these restrictions upon agriculture,
Philip II. passed a law that punished with fourteen years'
exile the farmer who made bread of wheat of his own raising,
or who sold it in the market.

Operating in harmony with these incredibly foolish laws, the
mayorazgos (entails), and the statutes of mortmain, aided in
the almost total extinction of agriculture. The natural result
was, that Spain was supplied with grain from other countries ;
and, having no manufactures to exchange for breadstuff's, was
annually drained of specie to the amount of more than thirty
million of dollars.

Industrial pursuits fared as badly as agriculture. Every
Spaniard wished to be noble ; and their monarchs, fearing the
rebellious spirits of mechanics, invented the Alcabala ; which
was a tax laid upon every article manufactured and sold, and
which bore so heavily on some handicraftsmen, that it was
cheaper for them to remain idle than to work. The natural

116 KEEL AND SADDLE.

consequence was, that industry of all kinds perished in the
country ; almost the only manufacture left being that of Toledo
swords, which escaped destruction owing to a prejudice in favor
of its supposed noblity. Even the manufacture of the famous
Segovian cloths, and Cordovan and Galician leather, ceased
entirely, and it became disreputable to engage in it ; while the
laboring-classes were regarded as pariahs, and stigmatized as
pecheros. Moreover, to induce the Spaniards to become en-
nobled, the nobility were exempted from taxation ; and this
privilege augmented their haughtiness, and intensified their
contempt for all business. It was considered beneath the
dignity of a Spaniard to bargain, or to receive back change for
gold in the purchase of the merest trifle ; while interest for
money loaned was accounted Judaism and the sum of all
baseness.

Such ideas prevailing among the Spaniards, all lucrative oc-
cupations naturally fell into the hands of Jews and foreigners,
who flocked into the Peninsula from every part of Europe to
work for the Spaniards, who would not work for themselves.
These remained long enough only to accumulate a competency,
with which they hurried home, where they were not subjected
to the universal contempt with which all Spaniards regarded
them. All the wealth of the New World, millions upon mil-
lions, thus passed through the country, scarcely a dollar
remaining in it ; and year by year the Spaniards grew poorer
and poorer. The proceeds of the grinding taxation of their
European provinces, — Naples, Sicily, and Lombardy, — with
the bullion from both the Indies, rolled into Spain in a golden
current, which traversed without enriching it ; and, like a worn-
out profligate, she swallowed every thing, but digested noth-
ing. There was one long holiday in the Peninsula ; but though
revelry, feasting, and idleness were the order of the day, the
real national prosperity was gone forever.

The court, in those unthrifty times, scornfully ignored every

KEEL AND SADDLE. 117

axiom of political economy suggested to common sense by the
stream of wealth poured into the country.

In former years, when the kings of Castile were elected by
the barons, they told the sovereign at his coronation that they
who sanctioned it were his equals, and, united, his superiors ;
and that they conferred upon him the regal power, and prom-
ised to obey him, provided he continued to respect their rights ;
and, if he did not, then not, " Y, si no! no! " But now the sove-
reign was worshipped by his unworthy subjects, men like him-
self, with a slavishness hardly less base than the reverence
paid to the grand lama ; and the once chivalrous house of
Burgundy had degenerated so fearfully, that it was remarked
by a contemporaneous historian that Charles V. was a warrior
and a king, Philip II. a king only, Philip III. and Philip IV.
not even kings, while Charles II. was not even a man.

The latter imbecile sovereign was a mere human machine,
whose every step, word, and action were regulated by an un-
changeable system of etiquette, which set at naught volition ;
and whose appearance, as one may still see in his portrait in
Madrid, was that of hopeless idiocy, which was his real char-
acter. His costume, also strictly regulated by etiquette, con-
sisting of a rigid black velvet dress, with the huge golilla (ruff)
encircling his neck, — painfully suggestive of the head of John
the Baptist in a charger, — strengthens his resemblance to an
automaton. The irrational and impious system of king-worship
was immensely popular ; and the Spaniards even committed
the impiety of speaking of las dos majestades (the two majes-
ties), coupling the sacred host with their earthly sovereign,
and thus adding sacrilege to their other national sins. In
their most violent revolts the Spaniards never thought of depos-
ing the king ; always shouting " Viva el rey absolute ! " whether
he was a tyrant, a knave, or an idiot. Finally their manners
grew intolerable ; political bigotry and fanaticism ruled the
kingdom j and irreligion was so universal, that assignations were

118 KEEL AND SADDLE.

usually made in churches, even at the hour of the holy sacri-
fice ! Crime remained unpunished, or was condoned ; and the
proverbial delays of the law were prolonged tenfold.

At the time of my tour, Ferdinand VII. had been dead
ahout three years : his infant daughter, Isabel II. was the titu-
lar queen ; and her mother, Maria Christina of Naples, third
wife of Ferdinand, was regent of the kingdom. The old king
had reigned with absolute power for more than twenty years
over a population of twelve millions of Spaniards, who, almost
unanimously, had hailed his accession to the throne of the
Bourbons, loudly clamoring for the ancient regime of despot-
ism. The vox populi being in full harmony with the secret
wishes of the king, with the concurrence of the army and the
armada (navy) he issued a decree annulling every act of the
Cortes passed during his captivity in France, — which acts were
exceedingly liberal, — and restoring the absolute monarchy.
This measure was received with immense enthusiasm. The sight
of a whole nation thus debasing itself, and eagerly riveting
chains upon its own limbs, is melancholy indeed ; but the fact
is beyond dispute. This cowardly weakness was particularly
lamentable in this instance ; for Ferdinand VII. was a weak
man, depraved in heart and corrupt in life, with scarcely a
redeeming quality. His first wife was his cousin, Maria of
Naples, — a lovely, gentle, and affectionate princess : but her
brutal husband blighted her life ; and she perished, as there is
every reason to believe, by poison administered by his hand.
He then sought a wife among Napoleon's family; but the
emperor thought he could not recommend for a husband a man
who had attempted the life of both his parents, and had mur-
dered his wife : so the offer was declined ; and, eight years after-
wards, Ferdinand married his niece, Maria of Portugal. At
the same time, his brother, Don Carlos, wedded a princess of
the same royal house. Ferdinand hated his brother, and de-
sired to shut him out from the succession. In less than one

KEEL AND SADDLE. 119

year, the queen died childless ; and, a few months afterwards,
the king, anxious to secure an heir, took another bride, — Maria
Amelia of Saxony. Meantime insurrections, executions, im-
prisonment, and misery afflicted poor Spain.

For ten years the queen endured her husband, and then
sank childless into the grave, leaving Ferdinand, a worn-out
debauche of forty-five, imbecile in mind and body, but still
haunted by the thought that the sceptre would pass into the
hands of the hated Carlos. His last bride was Maria Christina
of Naples, a frivolous girl of twenty, without conscience or
moral scruples, but gifted with a considerable amount of
shrewdness, which fitted her admirably for the palace intrigues
in which she became so famous.

Almost her first act after marriage was to take as her lover
one Munoz, a private soldier in the king's life-guard, — a young,
handsome, and vigorous man, but of the lowest extraction,
manners, and deportment. She lavished wealth and titles
upon this person, creating him Duke of Rianzares ; and with
her friends exulted in the probable success of their scheme to
secure an heir to the throne, and thus to defeat the preten-
sions of Carlos. There was only one drawback to this little
game ; which was, that, should the offspring of the queen prove
a female, Carlos would be still the next in succession, under
the Salic law, which had prevailed in Spain for a hundred and
fifty years.

While all the kingdom anxiously awaited the issue of the
accouchement of the queen, the Carlist party were dismayed by
the promulgation of a decree by the king, revoking the Salic
law, and transmitting the crown to females in default of male
heirs.

On the 10th October, 1830, a daughter — afterwards Isabel II.
— was born ; and, a formidable insurrection having broken out
in Madrid, the king repealed his obnoxious decree, but again
re-affirmed it after the crisis had passed. There is no doubt

120 KEEL AND SADDLE.

that the queen procured, by her influence over the miserable
old monarch, the execution of these several decrees, and even
guided his hand in signing them ; for Ferdinand was a con-
firmed invalid, and lived secluded in his palace, entirely under
his wife's influence. She thus secured a party in her favor,
which she used every means to strengthen ; and finally the old
king, exhausted by his excesses and sickness, delegated the
regal authority to his wife as a reward for her wifely care.

The two parties of Christina and Carlos now secretly pre-
pared to appeal to arms : but their preparations were suspend-
ed upon the announcement that the queen was again about
to become a mother; for, should the issue be a son, Carlos
would have no claim. After a few months of hopes, fears, and
doubts on all sides, the queen gave birth to another daughter, —
the infanta Luisa. Finally the old king was called away, and
died Sept. 29, 1833. His death-bed was the scene of quarrels,
reproaches, and even blows, among his affectionate relations,
who departed with malevolence in their hearts to summon
their adherents on either side ; and the civil war, so long de-
ferred, at last broke out.

I frequently saw the queen-regent and her two daughters,
and can vouch for their fine appearance ; but, that they had
much Bourbon blood in their veins, I presume no one in Ma-
drid could be found so credulous as to maintain, expecting to be
believed. The well-known fact that Dona Christina continued
to increase her family after the death of Ferdinand VII., and
profited by her position to acquire the means of supporting
them all handsomely, may be of interest to those who ardently
admire royal institutions.

Even from the foregoing meagre statement, it must appear
that no nation in history was ever so entirely abandoned to the
adoration of senseless eccentricities as was Spain. She appears
to be isolated from the rest of the world in thought and feel-
ing, and has been governed by passions and vices apparently

KEEL AND SADDLE. 121

most incompatible. In no other country has the monarchical
principle of government obtained so much discredit. For four
centuries the Spanish crown has never been worn by an en-
lightened sovereign devoted to the interests of his people,
or deserving any better fate than historical ignominy ; yet
Spaniards have continued to believe in their rulers, to fight for
them, to die for them, and even to prostitute their country for
their interests.

What will be the end ? The answer is, that Spaniards have
always been fanatics in politics, and "Espanolismo" has ever
been their test of truth. An abandonment of that false stan-
dard must precede the disinthralment of Spain, political and
intellectual. Until then, liberty will be unknown to her, and
progress impossible.

11

XVI.

ABOUT a year after my Spanish tour, — which interval
had been spent in cruising in the Mediterranean, —
the ship arrived in the harbor of Algiers ; and I had a short
leave to visit the interior of that French colony. A British
admiral compares the city of Algiers to an old main-topsail
spread out on a hillside to dry : not an inapt likeness to one
looking from the anchorage. Its white walls, and cross-streets
in parallel lines, certainly resemble the reef-bands. The Arabs
more poetically compare the city to a diamond set in emerald
and sapphire, — alluding to the green hills and the blue sea
around it. Here, as elsewhere, Nature is more truthfully
depicted by barbarian poetry than by civilized prose.

The clear skies in its calm atmosphere reflect a dazzling
light, and the sharp outlines of the mountains cut the horizon
distinctly in the transparent distance ; while the gentle sound
of the sea-breeze and the scent of the sweetly-perfumed land
transport the vision of the imagination far into the depths of
remote Atlas. On landing, these charms measurably fade ; and
the city hardly answers the promise of first sight from the
sea. In the Moorish quarters especially, the narrow streets
and peculiar architecture of the houses, built with reference
to the Mussulman's ideas of seclusion and jealousy, make the
city an inextricable labyrinth, full of oddity and mystery.
These streets are rough to mount, and rougher to descend,
many of them being " impasses." We are agreeably surprised
122

KEEL AND SADDLE. 123

upon entering some of these houses, as all their comfort and
elegance are reserved for the interior, wherein are freshness,
coolness, and rich furniture. An inside gallery runs around
a court filled with beautiful fountains, and adorned with
flowers, upon which open all the apartments of the mansion ;
and a fine terrace forms the roof, from which the eye ranges
over the sea and the lofty mountains of the Jujura. The
French authorities had occupied some of these palaces of the
old Algerines as government offices and quarters ; and in
several of them I was hospitably received. Abd-el-Kader was
then still at large, and at war with the French, who indeed
were masters only of the seaboard, and of the interior so far
as the city of Blidah, which had succumbed not long before
to their arms.

Although Algiers is chiefly known to us by tradition as the
capital city of piracy, and though Shakspeare makes it the
birthplace of Sycorax, the mother of the imp Caliban, still,
seen in the lovely month of March, one must imagine it to be
peopled by the most amiable of corsairs and sorceresses. The
skies have all the smiling sweetness of Italy ; and the climate
is so delightful, that even the galley-slaves, as we are told,
when liberated, pined to return to the scene of their captivity.

After a few hasty preparations for my trip, I mounted one
of the stair-like streets leading to the casbah, which formerly
was the citadel of the dey, and is now a French fortress and
depot. I occasionally paused to view the strange sights, — the
veiled and spectral forms of the Moorish women, and wild-
looking, coifed Arabs in their flowing white bornouses, with
here and there a Turk or a Frank. I heard the gay notes of
an infantry bugle ; and soon a company of French soldiers
passed by on their way to relieve some post or guard in the
upper part of the city. The French foot-soldier has a martial
and forcible aspect, which always commands my attention and
admiration, mixed, I confess, with a little envy. Their elastic

124 KEEL AND SADDLE.

step, confident air, and determined bearing, give one the as-
surance that those active feet will follow the path in which
they may enter to the end.

Having arrived at the casbah, I was politely received by the
old major in command of the depot, to whom I was accredited
by superior authority, and introduced to the captain of the
foreign legion, who was to command the detachment detailed
as convoy which I had received permission to accompany.
Capt. Senneval invited me to dine at the mess ; and I met at
their hospitable board several military men of the different
corps then in the colony. Their conversation was general,
frank, and open, relating principally to the war in progress ;
and I heard of acts of brilliant valor, and even of eccentric
hardihood, spoken of without boasting or military pedantry.
These African heroes told only of what they had seen, not
what they had done ; and I was convinced of the truth of
their stories by the simplicity of the narrators.

There were about a dozen officers at the table, which was
plentifully supplied, and handsomely decorated with flowers ;
the waiters being fine-looking Maltese women, under the man-
agement of an old steward ; also a Maltese, who, as I was in-
formed, had been a pirate. Among these officers I saw repre-
sentatives of nearly every nation in Europe. The old major
had cast off his shabby blouse, and the blue spectacles he wore
in his bureau, and appeared in all the glory of the epaulets
of his rank, cross of the legion, and pantalons garance, which
he wore with the ease and grace of an old soldier.

The officers, I was told, were of two classes; those who
served with the legion as etrangers, — free lances, who had
taken service under the French flag, having left their native
lands under untoward circumstances, — and of French volun-
teers sent to serve in that corps to attain promotion. To the
latter class belonged Capt. Senneval and a regular vieux mous-
tache near whom I sat, and who rejoiced in the nom de guerre

KEEL AND SADDLE. 125

of Capt. Eylau, — so called from a habit he had of talking con-
linually about that great battle, in which he served as a
drummer-boy ; his present rank being that of captain of
" zephyrs," as they are called in the African battalions.

Coffee and cigars having ended the meal, I rose from table,
and entertained myself for a while with the new and strange
sights around me.

At that time Blidah, now only a few hours of peaceful
travel by railway from Algiers, was a garrisoned post in an
enemy's country, surrounded by tribes of stealthy, wandering
Kabyles ; and our expedition was sent to convoy stores for
the use of the garrison. It was composed of two companies
of infantry, — one of zephyrs, and one of the foreign legion,
and a squadron of spahis, — native cavalry ; the whole under
command of Capt. Senneval.

Although this officer was quite a young man, his commis-
sion was older than that of Capt. Eylau ; which gave him the
command.

Our little column — with the exception of the cavalry —
started at early daybreak in order to arrive at a certain
bivouac not very far from Blidah at an early hour, provided
we were not interrupted by the Kabyles. This was not im-
probable, for stores were much coveted by them, especially
ammunition ; and there were always spies in Algiers to give
intelligence of any important movement. It was rumored
that the emir himself was known to be far from the plain, or
table-land, of Algiers : and the quiet attitude of the neighbor-
ing tribes confirmed that opinion ; for they were very uneasy
when their great chief was near or among them.

In hope of a quiet march, Capt. Senneval had directed the
troop of spahis not to mount and follow our column until the
infantry and wagons had been two hours on the road ; know-
ing that it is very fatiguing to cavalry to regulate its march
by that of infantry, and vice versa. After quitting Algiers,
11*

126 KEEL AND SADDLE.

we rode leisurely across a level plain by a well-worn road
through a country in which we saw a few Moorish houses
surrounded by high walls, all having the same mute and
lugubrious appearance. Soon even these disappeared ; and
only a few fig, aloe, and dwarf-palm trees were to be seen.
The country was known to be inhabited by the wild tribes ;
but we saw not a human creature, nor even a domestic
animal.

The way was so monotonous, that I began to yawn from
weariness ; when suddenly Capt. Senneval, who rode near me,
in the centre of the column, put spurs to his horse, and dashed
to its head. Looking for the cause of his movement, I saw a
light-blue smoke curling up in the cool mountain-air far
ahead. It was evident that this aerial spectre, clearly drawn
upon the deep blue of the sky, was a signal of some sort ; for
the officers knew that there were no villages or lodges, even
of the temporary sort called " gourbis," in that direction.
Old Eylau was called to the front, and a rapid conference
ensued, a party of eclaireurs being detailed to scour the coun-
try in the advance ; and we proceeded about a league farther.

The sun was now getting powerful ; and the soldiers marched
along with their great-coats open, their muskets en ban-
douliere, and long walking-sticks in their hands, — a peculiarity
of African troops, who use them also as tent-poles. As the
sun became hotter, the road-song — chanson de route — died
away; and no sounds were heard save the tinkling of the
mess-pans and accoutrements of the troops, slung to the goat-
skin knapsacks, in which the French soldier carries his whole
worldly wealth.

Suddenly arriving at a place where the ground was some-
what broken, we heard shots from the eclaireurs. The aide-
major of the command halted, and closed up the wagons ; the
bugles sounded the " rally," which brought in the skirmishers
to the main body ; and the troops deployed from column to

KEEL AND SADDLE. 127

line of battle. The enemy was in force in our front, at no
great distance, determined to dispute our progress ; their main
body being masked by a cloud of Arab horsemen galloping
swiftly about, their white bornouses floating in the air, shout-
ing, and firing their long Turkish guns, or brandishing them
at arm's length. Behind them were the dark masses of
Kabyle infantry.

Capt. Senneval approached ; and I saw, by his intrepid
air and bearing, that our safety was in good hands. The
soldiers of the legion betrayed at once all their national
characteristics. The Spaniard was disdainfully grave ; the
eyes of the Pole grew bright, and his color heightened ;
while all the mustaches, brown, red, or black, bristled up
at the very idea of a fight, giving me, a neutral spectator,
the agreeable assurance that I was under excellent protec-
tion. The " zephyrs " entered into the spirit of the thing
with the customary gayety of the gamins of Paris, from
which class their ranks were mainly recruited, and with the
laughing philosophy in the hour of danger for which they are
distinguished. These enfants perdus are generally well com-
manded ; and their officers, being taken from the regiments of
the line, show their soldiers an example of intrepidity, allied to
habits of discipline, which proves to them that all the military
virtues may be united. The officers identify themselves with
their soldiers in action, decide rapidly, and act quickly.

Just such an officer was Capt. Balment, commonly called
Eylau, who had spent his whole life under the French colors.

The wagons and ambulances of the convoy were massed in
the rear of the line of battle, and the action was becoming
warm ; when I saw an old non-commissioned officer brought to
the rear for treatment, and I addressed him. He was already
in the hands of the surgeon, and submitted himself with cool
imperturbability. Withdrawing his pipe for a moment from his
mouth, " Ah ! " said he, " they have among them some proini-

128 KEEL AND SADDLE.

nent officer of Abd-el-Kader, if not the emir himself. I see it
by the boldness with which their cavalry attack our line.
They are sustained by a strong force of infantry."

The situation was, indeed, becoming serious ; and I began to
repent having wished to see something of the country beyond
the walls of Algiers. Men were falling ; and a soldier in front
of me was killed by a bullet, slightly spattering me with
blood and brain. A band of the Kabyles, led by a chief of
large stature, advanced towards our line at the charge, direct-
ing themselves upon the " zephyr " company commanded by
Eylau. The captain drew his sabre, sheathed till now, took
his brule gueule from his mouth, and placed himself in front
of his covering sergeant, on the right of his company. The
enemy, howling and gesticulating, charged the " zephyrs ; " but
they endured the shock steadily, receiving the horsemen on
their sabre bayonets, many of which were impurpled. Then
Capt. Eylau, passing from defence to attack, threw his com-
pany— dressed as if on parade — upon the Kabyles. I saw
his sabre plunged into the body of the tall chief, who fell like
lead ; and, quick as lightning, a zephyr, rummaging among his
white vestments, drew forth his watch, and secured his arms.
So skilfully was this done, that I thought the dexterity of the
gamin must have been acquired in a different field.

Eylau was triumphant, driving the enemy far from the
wagons ; but they outnumbered us, and, despite the well-sus-
tained fire of the French troops, re-enforced their front line,
and renewed the action, as if determined on victory. I saw in
the faces of Capt. Senneval and others that the crisis had
arrived, and that they were wishing for any, even the smallest
re-enforcement, when a movement took place in the enemy's
line : their fire became hesitating, and then ceased. They
broke, and ran ; and we knew that they were charged in flank
by French cavalry.

We saw the red bornouses and white turbans of the spahis,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 129

their flashing sahres above their heads, dashing upon the
Kabyles, whose rout was completed by a charge of our
infantry ; and the field was won. The squadron of spahis had
left Algiers, as ordered, two hours after our departure, and
were leisurely following our trail, when, hearing the din of
battle, they had galloped up just in time to decide the combat.
The enemy were now in full retreat, pursued by the spahis,
who mercilessly cut them down as they ran.

Our tired and exhausted soldiers were then marched to a
pleasant bivouac near by ; and, with the readiness peculiar to
Frenchmen, the whole force was soon under shelter from the
burning sun. Fires were kindled, and cooking began; while
the soldiers divested themselves of their arms and accoutre-
ments, and lay around in groups under the trees, or near the
water. Soon the spahis were seen returning from the pursuit
in a cool, sauntering manner, contrasting strongly with their
former impetuosity, and unlike the eager, talkative Gaul.
They sat solemn and straight upon their saddles, silent and
almost motionless, many of them being Mussulmans. Every
spahi bore some spoil of war, — Kabyle " flissos," yatagans,
guns, pistols, and trinkets of different kinds.

These doughty cavaliers were headed by their officer, —
a slender, blonde young man, who was evidently one of the
jeunesse doree, although attired in the costume of an Oriental
Frenchman. The Vicomte de Bertrand could never have been
mistaken for a Turk, notwithstanding his dress ; for his air,
actions, and gestures instantly betrayed his nationality. On
his head was a snowy turban of irreproachable twist, rolled
around a " checia," placed far back on his head, like those of
the " Turcos ; " and his blonde mustache hung down from the
corners of his mouth, of a shape and length equally forbidden
to true believers. Although his garments were of the regu-
lation color of the spahi uniform, his red vest was embroi-
dered with gold in fantastic designs unknown to the

130 KEEL AND SADDLE.

ordonnance ; and his light-blue trousers terminated in red
morocco boots, that would not have been out of place at
Franconi's. He bestrode a fine sorrel-horse, lithe and slender
like himself, showily caparisoned a la Turque, and which
seemed to partake of his rider's disposition, as the pair ad-
vanced towards the bivouac curvetting and prancing, horse
and rider on excellent terms with each other. Notwithstand-
ing his dramatic and exaggerated Orientalism, I was informed
that the vicomte was an excellent officer, and a man of
brilliant and generous qualities ; which report I had an oppor-
tunity of verifying before we parted.

I strolled towards the spahis, who were now mingling with
their comrades ; when suddenly I heard a salutation in Spanish
in a well-remembered voice, " Ah ! mi teniente que alegria de
verle ! " and, could it be — yes, it certainly was — my old
friend and trusty squire here in Africa, — Manuel Blasco y
Gusman ?

Blasco was mounted upon a spirited Arab, a red bornouse
hanging from his shoulders instead of the capa parda, on his
head the spahi turban in place of his montera, and from the
pommel of his saddle there dangled by the mahomet — a
long lock of hair left by all Osmanlees to hoist them into
paradise — a grisly human head. We had much to say to
each other at this unexpected meeting ; for Blasco was as gar-
rulous and declamatory as ever. We rested all night at this
bivouac without further adventure, and next day arrived at
Blidah.

This city was celebrated under the Turkish rule as a
sojourn of pleasure, and known as the "voluptuous." It
always had a large population, and is famed for the excellence
of its oranges and lemons. It was taken by the French army
under Marshal Clausel in 1830. The foot hills of the Atlas
range approach its walls quite nearly; and it overlooks the
fertile plain of the Metidja, and commands the passes of those

KEEL AND SADDLE. 131

mountains. The surrounding country is remarkable for the
beauty of its landscapes, the richness of its soil, the salubrity
of its atmosphere, and the abundance of its waters.

The city is charmingly ensconced in a perfumed forest of
oranges, limes, mulberry, figs, jujubes, dates, and other African
trees. These rich groves are watered by the Oned Kebir, the
sources of which are not far from the city. I was the guest
of the colonel commanding the garrison, and his amiable lady,
in a luxurious palace which had once belonged to a rich
Moslem. I made some excursions in the neighborhood in
company with the French officers, so far as was prudent on
account of the lurking Kabyles.

After several days passed in a most agreeable manner, I
returned to Algiers and to the ship under the protection of
the spahis, gratefully acknowledging the hospitality of my
friends. I left Manuel Blasco in Algiers ; that worthy inform-
ing me that he had decided to take up his residence in that
city after the termination of his enlistment, or even before
that time if he could obtain his discharge. I rather doubted
his purpose, until he introduced me to a portly Mahonese
lady, who kept a hotel and baths, and appeared to possess a
fair portion of this world's goods and a fine run of custom.
She was a widow whom he had won by his blandishments, and
who — I afterwards heard — consented to marry him; and
Blasco became very popular in his capacity of landlord.

XVII.

A FTER returning from the Mediterranean, I was almost
-£A_ immediately ordered to join the squadron of Com. George
C. Read, and with it made a cruise of circumnavigation.

Stopping at Madeira and the cape on our outward voyage,
we entered the Mozambique Channel, and anchored at Zanzi-
bar, then under the government of the imam, Syeed Syeed
bin Sultan of Muscat.

This prince was a Mussulman of the strictest sect ; and,
although more liberal than most Eastern despots, had attained
supreme power by the usual stages of crime, among which
were the murders of several of his nearest relatives. Having
gained the object of his ambition, he adopted a conciliatory
domestic policy, and was tolerant, even generous, to foreigners;
so that, in time, he became the most popular of Asiatic rulers.
He also greatly extended his dominions, and added to the
hereditary possessions of his house nearly the whole coast of
Africa, from Cape Guardafui south to the Portuguese settle-
ments, with which nation he was thus brought into collision.
The imam was at Zanzibar on our arrival, and received us hos-
pitably, insisting on furnishing the whole crew with provisions
during our stay.

Visiting the imam at his palace at Mtony, we found him a
handsome middle-aged man, of fine personal appearance, evi-
dently a full-blooded Arab, with the slender form, clear olive
skin, regular and handsome features, and small delicate ex-

132

KEEL AND SADDLE. 133

tremities, of that race. In his deportment he was a perfectly
well-bred gentleman ; and his manners far surpassed in courtesy
and grace the most refined European standard.

His son, who was present at the interview, was of the same
type as his father. Among others of his suite was a tall,
stalwart negro, conspicuous by his costly dress, and who was
acting then as vizier, being a man of uncommon intellect for
one of his race, in spite, as it seemed, of the cruelty which
had deprived him of his manhood; for he was a eunuch.
Having turned Mussulman while a slave of the imam,
he had been manumitted in conformity with the laws of the
Wahabee sect of Glam, which forbid the enslavement of a
believer in the Prophet. I was told a singular story of this
eunuch ; and, as it illustrates the peculiar military policy of
the prince, I will repeat it.

Ahmed had been from boyhood the personal attendant of
Syeed. He became attached to his master, served him with
affectionate fidelity, and was his chief agent in the accomplish-
ment of the crimes by which that prince mounted to his
throne.

When the imam began his wars for conquest, he coveted
possession of the town of Momtas, on the mainland of Africa,
not far from Zanzibar. He accordingly blockaded that sea-
port with his fleet, having a land force on board his ships ; but
the Portuguese had no idea of surrendering as long as they
could hold the castle. This castle is situated upon an island
in the mouth of the harbor, commands the entrance, and is the
key to the place.

The troops of the imam, as is customary in Arabia, con-
sisted of his own black slaves, naked, and armed with a long
straight sword, and a small target, or buckler, of rhinoceros-
hide, in the use of which they are very skilful.

Finding the garrison obstinate in spite of his blockade, the
imam hit upon an original and ingenious expedient to gain

12

134 KEEL AND SADDLE.

the castle. Taking advantage of a dark night, he manned all
his boats, and put into them five hundred picked men com-
manded by Ahmed.

Rowing in close to the beach with muffled oars, this forlorn
hope was landed on the island as near the walls as possible ;
and then the imam addressed them in low tones.

After appealing to their courage and fidelity, he threw his
blood-red flag to the intrepid eunuch in command of the storm-
ing party, and said, " I am determined to possess that castle
by to-morrow morning ; and I command you to hoist that flag
upon its highest tower before the dawn. Should you remain
where you now are, the enemy will probably exterminate you
at dawn ; but should he foolishly spare you, and I do not see
my flag flying from the castle at daylight, I shall then open the
fire of my ships, not upon the walls of the fort, but upon you."
The imam then coolly left the bewildered negroes to their
kismet (fate), and regained his ship. How many of the
devoted band were slain, I know not ; but, when the first gray
light of approaching day fell upon the walls of the Castle of
Momtas, it revealed that red flag streaming from its battle-
ments : the garrison had passed under the edge of the sword,
and the town and its dependencies capitulated to the imam,
who anchored his ships in the harbor, and took possession.

Our cruise extended to the Eed Sea, Muscat, the ports of
the Persian Gulf, and Surat ; and we finally anchored in the
harbor of Bombay, where the squadron rendezvoused.

The war with Cabul broke out about this time ; and a large
army, destined to act against that country, was united from
the three presidencies of British India at Bombay under the
command of Lord Keane. The subsequent operations and
disastrous defeat of a part of this army have been told by
Lady Florence Sale, wife of Sir Robert Sale, who was in the
campaign with her husband, and taken prisoner by the emir,
Dost Mahomet.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 135

The presence of so many officers made Bombay quite a gay
city while we lay there ; and, shortly before we sailed, I wit-
nessed the march of the army, — a most curious military
spectacle.

The host of fifty thousand combatants was encamped on the
wide glacis of the walled and fortified city, which extends in a
semicircular form about one and a half miles towards the
populous surrounding suburbs.

In the centre of this fine esplanade we were stationed near
the statue of Lord Cornwallis, which commands a view of the
whole area.

The troops had all gathered at their respective camps, and
the regimental parades were succeeded by a rest in place ;
when, at the sound of the sunset-gun from the fortress, every
tent was struck, disappearing as if by the wand of an
enchanter.

At the same time the band struck up the fine old English

air, —

"Don't you hear your general say,
Strike your tents, and march away 1" —

and the leading regiment, followed by all the other corps in
column of companies, took up the march, which, in India, is
nearly always at night, in order to avoid the heat.

First came several regiments of European infantry, all
stalwart, well-drilled men, evidently superior in physique to
the natives ; then some fine field-batteries, escorted by the
British regular light-cavalry, hussars, and lancers ; then more
batteries of native artillery, followed by several thousand native
irregulars, mounted on Persian horses, and presenting a some-
what mediaeval appearance, being clad in shirts of glittering
mail, with steel helms and shields, armed with matchlocks,
javelins, and even bows and arrows.

These troops were more picturesque than efficient, I should
suppose: for there was little uniformity among them; each

136 KEEL AND SADDLE.

man owning his horse, as I was told, and furnishing his own
arms.

After these came the Sepoy infantry, twenty thousand strong,
— a noble-looking body of men. The siege-train, escorted by
native cavalry, closed the long procession of regular troops.

Then followed a crowd of people unknown to European
armies, but who in India greatly outnumber the regular sol-
diers,— the camp-followers; a cosmopolitan throng of men
and women, in all the varied costumes of the East, — Euro-
peans, Persians, Mahometans, Gentoos, Parsees, on horseback
and on foot, in vehicles of all sorts, drawn by horses, bullocks,
asses, and mules, — some borne in palanquins, some riding
bullocks, and a few on camels, mingled with the syces (grooms)
of the officers, with their beautiful led horses ; while at inter-
vals in the long array might be seen the stately movement
of the colossal elephant.

This motley crowd were all talking and hallooing amid the
rout and dust, in strange contrast to the silence of the disci-
plined masses that preceded them.

Having visited the celebrated cave-temples, and seen the
other objects of curiosity in this part of India, we sailed, and,
after touching at Goa, arrived at Colombo, in Ceylon. While
at this port we heard of several acts of piracy committed by
the Malays of Sumatra, and sailed for that island to punish
them. To detail all the events that took place during our
stay here would hardly interest the general reader, so long a
time has elapsed since their occurrence. I will therefore
content myself with saying that we remained about three
months on the coast of Sumatra, engaged alternately in threat-
ening, negotiating, and fighting the Malays. One town,
Muckie, we entirely destroyed, as an example to the rest, —
pour encourager les autres, — some of its people having taken
the American bark " Eclipse " of Salem, murdered the captain
and others, and plundered the vessel of a large sum. Expo-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 137

sure and hardship on the Sumatrian coast introduced the
cholera and dysentery among our crews. The squadron was
compelled to quit the coast ; and March, 1839, saw us at anchor
at Singapore.

From Singapore we went to China, and remained there for
some months, engaged in attending to American interests ;
and then sailed for the Sandwich Islands, where we arrived in
due season, after having experienced a terrible typhoon in the
China Sea while passing through the Bashu Passage into the
great Southern Ocean.

After visiting several of the most prominent island-groups
of this ocean more or less frequented hy navigators, we hove to
off the tiny island known as Pitcairn's. This mere point in
the great Pacific Ocean is well known as the home of the
descendants of the mutineers of "The Bounty," — children of
Englishmen by Tahitian women, and immortalized by Byron
in the beautiful poem " The Island."

After the mutiny, and the arrival of Capt. Bligh in England,
— before which he endured incredible hardships, and crossed the
broad Pacific in the launch of " The Bounty," in which he and
his officers were set adrift, — the British Government sought
assiduously but vainly to discover the refuge of the mutineers.
They were found at last, accidentally, by an American whale-
ship, upon Pitcairn's Island, which had always been supposed
to be uninhabited. The ringleaders of the mutiny having
nearly all died, and time having weakened the government's
resolution to inflict vengeance upon the poor remnant, the
king took the islanders under his protection ; and, Pitcairn's
being considered too small for its increased population, the
inhabitants were removed to Norfolk Island. But they were
so unhappy in their new abode, that they were soon remanded
to their original and native home, in which, for more than forty
years, they had been secluded from the rest of the world, and
ignorant of any other of that world's empires.
12*

138 KEEL AND SADDLE.

There were originally five couples of English and Tahitians ;
and from these had descended the population of the island —
three hundred and more — at the time of our visit. The widow
of Fletcher Christian, the ringleader of the mutiny of " The
Bounty," was still living. There were also three Englishmen
landed on the island since its rediscovery with their children
by island wives.

Although the increase had been great in the population of
the little islet, — for it is no more than an islet, and one can
row all round it in a boat in three or four hours, — there were
yet no persons among them over fifty ; which was considered a
great age, and about the usual limit of human life, as I dis-
covered in conversing with the people. The increase of the
population, then, was due, not to longevity but to their prac-
tice of early marriage, and consequent fruitfulness.

What evidence of a general law are we to deduce from this
state of things ?

Christian and his companions, with their Tahitian wives,
landed at Pitcairn's in 1789 ; and in 1840 there were but ten
survivors of the first generation, the children of the mutineers,
although these islanders came into the world under circum-
stances apparently favorable to longevity. Why this pre-
mature decay ? Not hereditary disposition; for the Tahitians
are a long-lived race, and there never were epidemics on the
island. Neither could they complain of too monotonous or
insufficient nourishment ; for the land was very productive. I
can truly say, I never beheld a more athletic and admirably-
formed people, or one seemingly more free from any signs of
physical inferiority. It could not arise from intermarriage,
the effect of which would be visible in mental and physical
degeneration as well as abridgment of life. On the other
hand, we know, that in some countries, — the Alps and Norway,
for example, — cousins constantly marry each other for long-
continued generations, from necessity ; and nowhere can bo
seen more robust or long-lived people.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 139

There must be some other cause ; and this I find in their
isolated condition.

A state of monotonous peace and contentment, preserved by
careful vigilance or absence of temptation, is not the normal
state of man, nor one in which his energies have the healthy
play which insures durability of constitution. The average
man of our modern civilization, even in the United States,
— where his labors are greater, perhaps, than in any other
country, with his burden of cares and passions, his wasting
exertions amid earnest competitions, — has no cause to believe
in a general shortening of the span of life allotted to him.
Neither is a savage liable to this complaint ; for, should he
escape the casualties of quarrels and war and epidemics, he is
likely to live long.

The wild tension of his energies and passions, the sharp
spur given to his faculties by their constant exercise in the
service of the instinct of self preservation, all tend to maintain
the vigor of his powers, and to counterbalance the effects of
habitual sloth and frequent excesses. But, when the constitu-
tion lacks one or the other of these stimuli, there seems to be
a tendency to early decay. It is not intellectual exercise that
is wanting, or that given by education ; neither is it bodily
exercise, — for Pitcairners have enough of both, — but it is the
exercise of other mixed powers implanted within us, — the pas-
sions of hope and fear, the desire of achievement, and the
triumph of success. The mere animal enjoyment of life, for a
while, may be a substitute for these in early youth ; but it
cannot outlast natural growth ; and, in the mechanical pro-
longation of it which follows, the faculties seem to wane in a
gentle decline. This is not a wild conclusion from an insulated
and peculiar case ; for the same phenomena may be witnessed
elsewhere, as in the Sandwich Islands, the Tonga, the Navi-
gator, and Samoan groups, and, in fact, in most of the Pacific
islands.

140 KEEL AND SADDLE.

At the termination of this cruise I remained but a few
months on shore, and, having been ordered to the corvette
" St. Louis," sailed for the old cruis ing-ground in the West
Indies.

We were among the Windward Islands, westward from St.
Thomas, one day, when I had charge of the deck under a clear,
pleasant sky ; and, as the regular trade-wind of the tropics
was blowing, the ship was running along free, under all
sail, when the lookout cried from the masthead, " Breakers
ahead!" I knew by the reckoning that we were several
hundred miles distant from land, but immediately shortened
sail ; while the captain, officers, and crew, startled by the cry,
came running on deck.

Then occurred a remarkable event. The ship headed
westerly, with the wind, which had died almost to a calm, on
the starboard quarter. On the lee-beam the ocean seemed
much agitated ; and soon a huge " comber " appeared, extend-
ing to the horizon on either end, and apparently over thirty
feet in height above the sea-level. All hands were called ; and
we wore ship to the southward, and brought by the wind on
the port tack, while carpenters were battening down the
hatches fore and aft.

As the ship came by the wind, it suddenly fell calm ; but
she now headed the great wave, which rushed onwards with a
terrible roar and irresistible momentum. It struck her ; and
her bows were raised high in the air, almost bringing her
deck perpendicular, and throwing every man off his feet who
had not secured himself to something in anticipation of the
expected shock.

She was one of the deep-waisted class of slopps-of-war,
with heavy bulwarks full seven feet from the deck to the
hammock-nettings, — of all vessels the worst to be boarded
by a heavy sea. Fortunately, the ports were all out ; which
proved our salvation. For about two minutes, I suppose, —

KEEL AND SADDLE. 141

it seemed a much longer time, — the ship, her crew, and
every thing about the deck, were completely submerged. At
my post on the poop I felt the good ship tremble through all
her timbers under the weight of water on her deck, and
clung to the mizzen-rigging, in which I had lashed myself.
She then came up slowly to the surface, the water pouring
from her port-holes in torrents; while the great wave, or
bore, was seen and heard far beyond her, steadily moving
with great velocity on its mysterious course. Three other
waves followed the first, but greatly diminished in size and
volume ; then the surface of the ocean resumed its natural
appearance, and the trade-winds again set in. The ship sus-
tained little harm; and, although a few men were badly
bruised, there was no serious damage to life or limb. A great
many articles were washed overboard, however ; and, for
months after, every thing lost was laid to the great sea
bore.

It is my belief, that had this disaster occurred at night,
or had the ship received the shock anywhere but on her
bows, she must have gone down, and left not a soul to tell
the tale of how or when she disappeared, as has happened to
many others, — "The Hornet " and "Albany," for instance,
whose fate remains a mystery to this day.

These sudden and mysterious disappearances are not very
uncommon. I well remember that of the British sloop-of-
war, "Clio," in the Grecian Archipelago. She sailed from
the Gulf of Salamis, bound to Malta, but never reached her
destined port. Some days after her departure, a violent ex-
plosion was seen and heard from the Island of Milo — which
is the residence of the Archipelago pilots — in the midst of
a terrible squall of thunder and lightning. The experienced
men who saw this declared that the explosion was not
caused by the elements ; and, as the ship was to have
touched at Milo in order to land her Archipelago pilot, it

142 KEEL AND SADDLE.

was concluded that an electric flash must have fired her maga-
zine, in an instant sending ship, crew, Greek pilot, and all,
into eternity.

These " bores " — which, happily, are seldom encountered —
are, I believe, attributed to volcanic disturbance of the ocean-
bed ; an opinion I think erroneous. They are due, I believe,
like earthquakes, to the subtle and omnipresent electric fluid
which pervades all Nature, and even the whole stellar sys-
tem ; the sun being now well ascertained to be in electric
communication and sympathy with the earth. But to enter
upon this subject would be not only out of place here, but
would render my little memoranda of service too diffuse and
voluminous.

XVIII.

IN 1845 I sailed from the Chesapeake in a corvette des-
tined to re-enforce our squadron in the Pacific, and arrived
in due season at Mazatlan, in which port we found the fleet
assembled under the command of Com. Sloat. My ship
was shortly after ordered to the coast of California, then
an insignificant Mexican province, in which but little interest
was taken by the world, and the population of which was but
a few thousand.

As the details of my experience in California, during that
cruise, have already been published in "A Tour of Duty in
California," printed in 1849, I will only advert here to such
events as are necessary to preserve the continuity of my nar-
rative, and, resuming the thread of my story at the end of
that book, pass to those of succeeding years in the order
they occurred ; thus furnishing a sequel to that little volume.

The 14th of June, 1846, must be regarded as a memorable
day in the history of California ; for then her " manifest des-
tiny" became apparent, impelling her to "gravitate " towards
the Union. The movement was inaugurated at the little town
of Sonoma, the scene of the ancient mission of San Francisco
Solano ; the Mexican flag having been struck, and what was
known as the " bear-flag " substituted for it ; while a pro-
visional government was established, countenanced, and au-
thorized by Fremont, under instructions from Washington.
Soon afterwards the whole United-States squadron arrived

143

144 KEEL AND SADDLE.

at Monterey; and on the 7th of July, 1846, Com. Sloat
issued his proclamation, taking formal possession of the
Californias in the name of the United States, landing his
forces at the same time, and hoisting the American flag. By
previous arrangement, the flag was also raised, and the proc-
lamation read and promulgated, at Yerba Buena, now San
Francisco, and other principal localities. In command of a
party from the ship, I had the honor to hoist the flag at So-
noma; and, in less than a week, all Upper California was
in our possession.

It is a significant fact, that only the day after taking pos-
session, and even before the excitement of that event had
subsided, her Majesty's ship " Corn wallis," Admiral Sir Mi-
chael Seymour, arrived at Monterey with orders like Com.
Sloat's, — to take possession of the country as security for
British holders of Mexican bonds. Admiral Seymour's or-
ders, however, were conditional; and seeing the stars and
stripes at the flagstaff on shore, and learning what had taken
place, he soon sailed away.

Alta California, thus seized in consequence of the war
between the United States and Mexico, was held until the
new year ; when a revolt broke out at the Pueblo do los
Angeles, and Lieut. Gillespie of the marines, commanding the
garrison, was forced to retreat to San Pedro, where he em-
barked.

In a subsequent attempt to recover the Pueblo by Capt.
Mervine of the frigate "Savannah," his force was repulsed;
whereupon Com. Stockton — who had succeeded Sloat —
assembled all the naval force at San Diego, while Fremont
marched by land, to attempt its recapture, it being regarded
as the capital of Upper California.

The squadron made their rendezvous at San Diego; and
Stockton immediately set about preparing a force to march
upon the Pueblo, while Fremont was approaching the same

KEEL AND SADDLE. 145

point from the north. Just at this time, Brig. -Gen. Stephen
W. Kearney arrived in California by the overland route from
Sante Fe. He was attacked by a party of Californians under
Andres Pico at San Bernardino: several of the officers and
soldiers of his escort were killed and wounded, and his baggage
and a field-piece fell into the enemy's hands. Kit Carson,
who was with the general, brought the news of his arrival to
San Diego ; and he was safely brought into our garrison by a
party sent for the purpose.

Com. Stockton, having completed his preparations, set forth
towards the Pueblo at the head of four hundred seamen, sixty
dismounted dragoons of Kearneyrs escort, fifty California
volunteers, and a light battery. He first encountered the
enemy — about five hundred cavalry, with artillery — at the
ford of the River San Gabriel, not far from the Angelic capital,
on the 8th of January, and celebrated the day by a spirited
little fight. Having forced the passage of the San Gabriel,
our little column debouched upon the "Mesa," a table-land
some four leagues in extent, through which runs the road
from San Diego to the Pueblo de los Angeles. As we came
in sight of its white walls in the afternoon, we saw a long pro-
cession of horsemen issuing from the town, and directing their
march towards us. It soon became evident they meant to
oppose our progress ; and our jolly tars were in high spirits as
they formed in square, the artillery at the angles, to receive
them. The ground was a perfectly level, treeless plain, and
thus admirably fitted for the evolutions of both infantry and
cavalry. The enemy's cavaliers were about two thousand
strong, principally rancheros, and the best horsemen, probably,
in the world. They were dressed in the Mexican costume, in
gay scrapes of all colors, and divided into bands, or squadrons,
each of which had some kind of music, — trumpets, bugles,
and even guitars and fiddles. They were armed with the
escopeta (a clumsy carbine), a few with pistols and rifles, and
13

146 KEEL AND SADDLE.

some with sabres and machetes ; but by far the larger part
had only a short lance, with a long blade, that could be used
with one hand. Many flags streamed over the column ; some
troopers having gayly-colored handkerchiefs fixed to their
lances, which, fluttering in the breeze, gave a festal aspect to
the concourse. Confidently approaching our little force, they
sent their led horses to the rear under charge of their
vaqueros, and began their dispositions for an assured victory,
forming in two columns with a squadron front, opposed to two
faces of our square.

Meanwhile our men stood firm, as it had been thought best
to withhold our fire until the charge was made. Orders
were issued to wait until the enemy came within pistol-shot ;
but our sailors, seeing a tumultuous, noisy crowd of men
and horses rushing upon them with cries and waving flags,
opened fire at half-musket range rather prematurely. Our
cartridges, being an ounce ball and three buck-shot, proved
very destructive. Men and horses tumbled over in consider-
able numbers, and the six-pound field-guns completed their
discomfiture. They retired, however, in tolerable order, carry-
ing off the wounded, — those who had lost their horses hanging
by the stirrups of the more fortunate, — and again formed for
another charge. Three times they essayed to shake our square ;
but, being steadily met with the same withering fire, they at
last desisted, and rode off towards the mountains, leaving open
to us the road to their capital, which we entered on the same
evening.

The force which attacked us on this occasion consisted of
native Californians, superior to Mexicans in physical power
and military spirit, and far better horsemen; while all the con-
ditions of the action were favorable for cavalry in attacking
infantry. These men were not only finely mounted on well-
trained horses, but had also remounts on the field. Yet not
one of them got within twenty yards of our square, in the face

KEEL AND SADDLE. 147

of that steady rolling file-firing ; nor was a single bayonet or
lance, on either side, reddened with the blood of horse or man.
It was a fair test of the respective merits of fiery and chival-
rous cavalry opposed to steady and disciplined infantry ; and
the former was, as sportsmen say, " nowhere."

Their leader, Flores, attacked our sailor battalion in prefer-
ence to the volunteer force of Fremont, which had the prestige
of long frontier experience, which had habituated them to
Indian warfare, and made them unerring marksmen. I think
he committed a serious blunder; and that, had he engaged
Fremont's force, — which had no knowledge of infantry drill
or discipline, and no bayonets, — he must have been suc-
cessful.

This affair ended the struggle for the possession of Upper
California ; and our squadron sailed soon after for the coast of
Mexico, where part of it was employed in blockading Mazatlan
and San Bias, while my ship was sent with the frigate
"Congress" to Guaymas. We summoned that town to sur-
render; but, receiving a defiant answer, opened our batteries
the next morning, and soon reduced it to a heap of ruins.
Meanwhile Mazatlan was taken possession of, and also the
important town of San Jose : at Cape San Lucas and La Paz
the American flag was hoisted, and the province of Lower
California occupied.

The operations in the Pacific thus resulted in giving us
full possession of both the Californias, and military occupation
of two of the enemy's most important seaports.

My ship now started on her long and tedious voyage home
by way of Cape Horn, touching at Valparaiso. It was an
uneventful voyage, and ended with our arrival at Boston in
June, 1848.

To the inmates of a cruising-ship, months, and even years,
seem a short period in the retrospect, so few incidents occur
by which to mark the time. One day is like another; aud,

148 KEEL AND SADDLE.

while the dim vista of the future stretches vast before us, we
wonder at the nothingness of the past as the sands of the
present drop unnoticed away. Thousands of miles are trav-
ersed, marked by scarcely a change in our habits of thought
or action. We are conscious of no novelty save the variations
of climate, by which we are. alternately "scorched in the
tropics, and frozen at the pole."

After making Boston light with a southerly breeze, we
were all thinking of a speedy arrival in harbor, and an early
meeting with friends, when — presto! the wind changed, and
flung a cloud over our bright anticipations. At midnight a
north-east gale roared in fury ; and

"A heavy sea ran mountains high,
And drenched the toiling crew :
I thought of home, I heaved a sigh ;
Our good ship — she heaves to"

I cannot conclude this account of my first visit to California
without recording my impressions of one spot, whose features will
ever linger pleasantly in my memory. I have seen most parts
of the habitable world ; and, as I now recall their respective
beauties and advantages, I am forced to the conclusion, that in
climate, fertility, and healthful conditions, three regions have
been specially favored by Nature, — the Valley of Mexico,
Eastern Syria, and Southern Alta California. At first thought,
it may seem strange that the claims of this last-named region
have had so feeble recognition ; but it should be remembered,
that, thus far, California enterprise has demanded immediate
results and has ignored all opportunities, however promising,
that did not offer them. The resources of Southern Alta
California have been lost sight of in the hot search for instant
profit. This feverish haste in the race for wealth is now sub-
siding ; and the eyes of practical calculating wisdom have
been turned to this hitherto-neglected section of the State.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 149

Although the picture of San Diego, seen as I sailed into its
harbor (the finest, except that of San Francisco, in California) ?
is still vivid in my memory, I shall not attempt to reproduce
it, or to give any detailed account of a place which has heen
so accurately described by Mr. Dana in " Two Years before the
Mast ; " but the statement of a few facts touching the situation
and material advantages of San Diego, toward which emigra-
tion is now tending in considerable volume, may be of service
to those who seek information about it as a field of commercial
operations.

San Diego is the seaport of Southern California. " It stands,"
in the language of Rev. Walter Colton, in his book published
in 1850, "on the border-line of Alta California, and opens
upon a land-locked bay of surpassing beauty. The climate is
soft and mild the year round, the sky brilliant, and the atmos-
phere free of those mists which the cold currents throw on the
northern coast : the sea-breeze cools the heat of summer ; and
the great ocean herself modulates into the same temperature
the rough airs of winter. . . . Before the eyes that fall on
these pages are under death's shadow, San Diego will have
become the queen of the south in California, encircled with
vineyards and fields of golden grain, and gathering into her
bosom the flowing commerce of the Colorado and Gila."

This prophecy has not yet been verified ; but the realization
of the visions is only delayed. At the present time San
Diego contains thirty five hundred inhabitants, twenty to
thirty stores, a fine flouring-mill, several churches, free schools,
&c. Its population is unlike that of most California cities,
being permanent, and possessing, in a remarkable degree, the
culture of the Eastern States. The city is the natural commer-
cial centre of a vast extent of country fertile and rich in min-
erals, including all Southern California, Southern Nevada,
Arizona, New Mexico, and Northern Mexico. On the comple-
tion of the Transcontinental Railway, — which is to be built via,

18*

150 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Marshall, Tex., — San Diego, which will be its coast terminus,
will become an important point of trans-shipment in the trade
with China and Japan, and will compete not unsuccessfully
with San Francisco for the commerce of the Orient. It is well
known to mariners that vessels plying between Oriental ports
and San Francisco invariably pass down the California coast
till they reach or pass the thirty-second parallel, in order to
avail themselves of the trade-winds. This practice virtually
places San Diego between San Francisco and the Orient, and
gives her an advantage over any northern port of several hun-
dred miles of travel.

In view of the unquestionable superiority of San Diego in
geographical situation, agricultural and commercial resources,
and climatic charms, and especially of the tide of emigration
now tending thither, there is little hazard in adopting Mr.
Colton's prediction, with a reasonable extension of the limits
he fixed for its verification.

XIX.

A FEW months after my arrival in the United States I
received orders from the navy department to proceed
to California as government agent, for the protection of live-
oak and other naval timber on the public lands in that
Territory ; and sailed in a merchant-vessel for my destination
via the Isthmus of Panama. Since my return home, gold had
been discovered at Sutter's Fort on the Sacramento, and the
tide of emigration had set in towards the new " Dorado," that,
less than one year ago, had come under the rule of the United
States.

Landing at Chagres, I found that ancient and dilapidated
seaport crowded with adventurers from New Orleans of all
races and nations, insanely eager to reach the land of gold, in
which they expected to reap an easy harvest. Since the time
of Morgan and his bold buccaneers, the little seaport had never
contained such a shaggy, unkempt, and reckless crowd of dare-
devils as now occupied it. Every available "bungay," ba-
teau, skiff, and canoe had been secured for the navigation of
the river to Cruces ; and the boatmen were rejoicing in the
sudden advance in the price of their services. Being able —
unlike most of these emigrants — to speak Spanish, I soon
procured the aid of two river-men, and a fine canoe with a
toldo (awning), large enough for two persons to sleep under;
and, having put our luggage into her, prepared chocolate with a
spirit-lamp of our own. En passant, let me recommend choco-

151

152 KEEL AND SADDLE.

late prepared in the Spanish fashion, whenever it can be had
at any price, as the best provant for all weary travellers. It
contains within the smallest compass more nourishment than
any other comestible. It restores the losses of the body, cor-
rects the lassitude common to wayfarers, is agreeable to the
palate, never palls, and is easily digested. It is also highly
sedative in its effects.

Our boatmen, with the propensity to procrastinate charac-
teristic of their race and calling, left us on some slight excuse
to return to the pulperias (grog-shops) of Chagres, having
received an instalment of their promised compensation. Hav-
ing finished our frugal meal, we lit our pipes, and were con-
templating the dark river and the distant lights of the town
(for it was now nightfall), when we were hailed from a canoe
near our own. The speaker was a fellow-passenger from New
York, bound to California, with a corps of butchers and meat-
packers to exploit that peculiar industry, and well known as
"Baron" Steinbergen. The baron was a jovial, handsome
man, tall, stout, with a Rubens head and complexion. He
spoke not a word of Spanish, and was consequently at the
mercy of his boatmen.

These fellows had fitted him to a hair's-breadth with a little
dug-out, which might have served him admirably for a coffin,
but which was not roomy enough for a boat, and in which he
dared not turn himself over for fear of a capsize. Having
thus secured him, the rascals had decamped, taking with them
their paddles, — an unnecessary precaution ; for the poor man
could have made no use of them, nor even bestir himself suffi-
ciently to get up the anchor by which the boat was moored.

We lost no time in relieving our friend from his uncomforta-
ble position; hauling his craft alongside our own, and refresh-
ing his inner man. About midnight, our boatmen and the
baron's returned, our friend unwillingly took possession of his
fairy skiff, and we began our voyage up the dismal Chagres

KEEL AND SADDLE. 153

River. After two days and nights on this sluggish stream,
amid almost incessant rain, the nights made hideous hy the
drinking and gambling of our black crews, we at last reached
Gorgona. Here the villains, landing our baggage, left us in
the lurch, having been bribed by a party who came along just
then to carry them to Cruces. In this miserable village I was
compelled to remain a whole week, while the advancing wave
of emigration swept by it in every description of floating craft ;
several vessels having arrived at Chagres since our departure,
crowded with passengers.

Eager, excited, and with minds intent upon prospective
nuggets, these poor fellows deemed no exertion too arduous, no
expense too great, as the price of their speedy arrival in the
gold regions. Most of them, unused to hardship, instead of
wealth found disease and death (as I afterwards learned) in
El Dorado.

Every horse and mule in Gorgona had been employed to
carry men or baggage to Panama ; and, unable to get away, I
amused myself in shooting some of the game that abounded
in the neighborhood. Many a duck of brilliant plumage,
snowy ibis, gorgeous flamingo, chattering parrot, and fat
chichalaka (tropical pheasant), went down before my gun :
but I paid dearly for my sport ; for I awoke one morning with
a pain in the back, a furred tongue, and aching head, and
knew at once that the insidious isthmus fever was upon me.
I instantly determined to start for Panama before the disease
had wholly overpowered me ; for to be sick at Gorgona, with-
out friends, medicines, or doctors, was certain death. So I sal-
lied forth, took the road on foot, and, by great good luck, met
an anriero returning, with two pack-mules, which I secured at
once.

We left Gorgona at mid-day, taking the rough bridle-path,
which was a difficult scramble for the whole distance. The
journey seemed to me a real Inferno, — the dark road through

154 KEEL AND SADDLE.

a dense tropical forest, the snakes, and monkeys gibbering at
me from the gnarled trees and lianas. That night I spent in
the hut of a poor woman on the edge of a prairie ; and the
next day, being unable to sit upon my saddle, her two sons
carried me in a rude litter to Panama. This poor woman
knew that I had a large sum of money in gold, which she
carefully guarded until all was ready, when she put it under
my head, and, telling her sons to carry me gently, bade me
God speed. This is not the only time, when, in countries
called uncivilized, my life has been saved and my property
secured by the influence of poor women : and I have there-
fore gratefully put this fact on record ; for, under the like cir-
cumstances in my own country, I should have been murdered
without hesitation or remorse. I will add, that these disinter-
ested poor women have invariably been pious Catholics.

At Panama I fortunately encountered in the streets an ac-
quaintance, Don Diego Feria ; and in the fine airy mansion of
this good Samaritan I went through the various stages of the
calentura of the isthmus, attended by the surgeon of a British
ship-of-war.

At last "The California," the first steamer of the line,
arrived, and we who had tickets repaired on board. She was
loaded to the guards with passengers, and sailed, leaving hun-
dreds unable to get away. These last groped their way up the
coast in all kinds of vessels ; one party of seven persons actu-
ally starting for San Francisco in a half-decked launch, and
arriving at their destination in a hundred and thirty days,
after encountering incredible hardships and dangers.

We passed through the Golden Gate on the 28th February,
1849 ; and, landing, I saw with astonishment the great change
that had come over San Francisco. The little idle place I had
left, with its three or four houses and some twenty-five inhab-
itants, was now, by the potent power of gold, metamorphosed
into a canvas city of several thousand people : the beach, where

KEEL AND SADDLE. 155

only the year before I had shot snipe and curlew, was thronged
with immigrants from every part of the world ; and the har-
bor, formerly only visited once a year by a trader in hides or
an occasional whaler, was now crowded with merchantmen from
every seaport in Europe, the United States, and South Amer-
ica. Their cargoes had been landed and covered with sails, or
were still on board in charge of the officers, the crews having
deserted and gone to the mines. Lots were staked off, and
had already reached fabulous sums ; and the thoroughfares
were filled with a rough, armed, and unshorn crowd of fellows,
who had returned with nuggets and dust from the " placer."

As I passed through a street between some shanties, I was
hailed by an old shipmate of " The Portsmouth " sloop-of-war,
who had been discharged on the coast before the ship sailed
for home. With a beard that reached his waist, a sunburnt
visage, and long hair over his shoulders, a red shirt, buckskin
unmentionables, and a revolver stuck in his waistband, the
trig, neat man-o'war's-man was not easily recognizable. Jack
was now a millionnaire in his own estimation, and therefore on
terms of complete social equality with his former officer. He
turned up the corner of a sail that covered a lot of elegant
furniture, piled in the street, the "venture" of some Eu-
ropean merchant ; hauled out an elegant fauteuil of crimson
velvet, respectfully forcing me into it ; and then crossed over
to a shanty, whence he returned, bringing a whole basket of
champagne. He then beheaded bottle after bottle, draining
each in succession ; in which agreeable employment he was
politely aided, upon invitation, by some thirty thirsty bystand-
ers. Then, in the excess of his delight at meeting me, which
he said no words could express, he successively demolished
the bottles, the glasses, and the superb chair, by way of vent-
ing his superfluous enthusiasm. Jack then drew forth a long
buckskin purse filled with dust, and magnanimously paid the

156 KEEL AND SADDLE.

shot ; and we left the scene of his strange triumph under a
salute of three cheers from his invited guests.

This was but one of the rare sights of those days in San
Francisco. A few shrewd fellows who landed from " The
California" without a dime, as they confessed to me on board
before leaving, became rich in twenty-four hours by purchas-
ing town-lots or goods, and selling immediately to others at
an advance before consummating the first bargain. Every
business negotiation was conducted on a cash basis of gold-
dust, no credit being allowed or demanded ; and thus the
game of speculation went on without promissory-notes, books,
or banks. Coined money was at a premium of fifty per cent ;
and loans of dust, by weight, at ten per cent per month on
good security. To give an adequate idea of the state of
society, the wonderful vicissitudes of individuals, the tragical
and the amusing incidents that frequently occurred, is a task
to which my powers of description are unequal.

Gen. P. F. Smith of the United-States army came out with
us to take command of the military department of the Pacific,
accompanied by some staff-officers, and Mrs. Smith, who had a
quite engaging Irish maid. Only two days after they had
landed, I called on Mrs. Smith, and found her in despair, her
maid, her chief dependence and only domestic, having left
her service.

I expressed my regret that the promise of high wages should
have induced the girl to abandon her allegiance to so deserv-
ing a lady.

" But, my dear sir," said Mrs. Smith, " it is not a question
of wages that has separated us. Mary is engaged to be
married to a gentleman of large fortune ; and the ceremony
will be performed as soon as permitted by the rules of the
church.

There was nothing more to be said.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 157

Like the rest, I felt the necessity of being a laborer in this
vineyard, in which none were idle, and, with Baron Stein-
bergen and his " retainers," started for San Rafael, where we
proposed to inaugurate measures for supplying provisions to
the hungry crowd suddenly thrown upon these shores, instead
of following the diggers to the mines.

14

XX.

IK October, 1846, while in command of the military post of
Sonoma, I purchased the estate of San Geronimo, consist-
ing of two square leagues (dos sitios de ganada mayor),
about five miles from the old mission of San Rafael, in what
is now called Marin County.

The Canada (hollow, or vale) of San Geronimo is one of
the loveliest valleys in California, shut in by lofty hills, the
sides of which are covered with red-wood forests, and pines of
several kinds, and interspersed with many flowering trees and
shrubs peculiar to the country. Through it flows a copious
stream, fed by the mountain-brooks ; and the soil in the bottom-
lands is so prolific, that a hundred bushels of wheat to the
acre can be raised with the rudest cultivation, and other crops
in corresponding abundance.

While hunting elk in that neighborhood, I had come upon
this beautiful valley, and determined to possess it, if possible ;
and in due time I acquired the property, and stocked it with
horned cattle and mares in the usual fashion of making a
settlement in California.

In my absence the cattle had increased to about five hun-
dred head of animals of all kinds, which roamed at will in a
state of nature over my domain, the mayor-domo engaged
to take charge of them having left the place, and gone off to
the bonanza (corruption of abundancia), a few months before
my arrival.

168

KEEL AND SADDLE. 159

I laid in a stock of tools, farming-utensils, &c., and arrived
at the mission of San Rafael, where I was hospitably received
by my old friend — mentioned in the " Tour of Duty " —
Don Timoteo Murphy. Here we sojourned for several weeks ;
but, finding it impossible to engage in any regular pursuit in
consequence of the unsettled state of the country, I concluded
to follow the current setting towards the " placer." A party
was formed of my neighbors the rancheros, who, with their
Indian servants and vaqueros, made a company of some thirty
persons. We had a caballada (herd of horses) of a hundred
head, and drove with us over two hundred head of beef cattle,
collected from the herds that ranged over our lands, whch we
intended to sell in the mining country.

The cattle, being perfectly wild, were always driven on the
full run, so that a day's drive was quite wearisome ; the cattle
seizing every opportunity to escape, bolting suddenly from the
column in order to return to their acarencias (grazing-
grounds). At the end of each day's march, or run, we were
all too happy to rest, to wash if possible, and to cook and
eat our suppers of beef, often without bread or salt; such-
was the scarcity of articles usually considered necessaries, but
which we should have ranked among luxuries. Before dawn we
were astir, after passing the night on the hard ground, with
nothing between us and it save our saddle-leathers, the saddle-
trees being our pillows, and serapes (blankets) our only cover-
ing : then, after a hurried breakfast of beef, we collected
the scattered herd, and began another day's hot and dusty
ride.

Good pasture-fed California beef broiled on the coals of a
wood-fire, with plenty of spring-water, was our diet ; and
very good fare it was. My health was never better, my physi-
cal powers never greater, than when I was a ranchero in that
glorious country. Constant exercise, and sleeping in the open
air, — no hardship in that pure, dry atmosphere, — hardened

160 KEEL AND SADDLE.

my body, invigorated my constitution, and induced an eleva-
tion of spirits, and confidence in my ability to endure pri-
vation, that I have never* felt before or since. I would
recommend such a course of training to an invalid as better
than all the nostrums of the faculty.

Arriving at the dry diggings, our party separated ; and for
two months we "prospected" in the vicinity, changing our
ground as we saw a chance to dig, trade cattle, swap horses, or
to barter our little stock of goods for " dust." I also made a
trip in a dug-out to San Francisco on account of partners and
self, and returned in a larger boat to our camp on Feather
River, laden with dry-goods, groceries, crockery, and hardware.
We sold all oft7 at enormous prices, — butcher-knives fetching
twenty dollars apiece, common iron spoons five dollars, and
ordinary wash-bowls and meaner vessels fifteen dollars. La-
bor was so high in the diggings, that it was difficult to com-
pute its value. Some Mexicans, encamped near us, paid their
camp-keeper a hundred dollars per day for his services and
for cooking ; and, even at that price, they were most unwillingly
.rendered. These fellows averaged much more than that sum
daily in digging and picking up nuggets, or occasionally wash-
ing the dirt of the gulches.

I sold all the flour I brought up, which came from Chili, in
bags of four arrobas (twenty-five pounds to the arroba), at
a hundred dollars the sack. Several dozens of common
calico shirts, bought for the use of our company, were snapped
at twenty dollars each, unwashed, after my partners had worn
them for a week ; and a digger taking a fancy to my Mexican
spurs, worth about three dollars, did not think them dear at
twenty-five. Gold was then found everywhere, — on the sur-
face, in the clefts and hollows of rocks, in the brooks, and upon
and beneath the soil.

All nations were represented in the Sacramento dry dig-
gings; but the luckiest miners were always the Mexicans

KEEL AND SADDLE, 161

and South- Americans. They possesed all the qualities which
insure success, — skill in prospecting, quick eyes for gold-
bearing formations, rapidity in extracting or washing the
auriferous earth, and great industry and patience, — although
lazy, and indeed useless in other employments. Honesty per-
vaded the little community ; for the Botany-bay men had not
yet arrived in California.

After a stay of several weeks, we returned to our homes,
bearing with us the fruits of our industry ; and I set to work
at San Geronimo with about a score of Indians ; and having
scratched up with the rude ploughs of the country about
fifteen acres of ground, and enclosed it with a brush fence, I
set out for San Francisco to procure seed for planting.

Many vessels had arrived since my last visit ; and the cry
was, " Still they come." Their crews would scarcely wait long
enough to furl sails after their arrival, so impatient were they
to leave for the diggings. Most of these ships had brought
over emigrants from Europe, in a sorry plight after their long
voyage. Among them were young and energetic men, some
hopeful, others sad and despairing ; old men and women, who
had followed those they loved to this distant land, only to lay
•their bones in it ; mothers, accompanying their children to an
unknown destiny ; and all expecting to reap in California the
harvest denied to them at home. Let Europeans say what
they please of our country : to a great part of their popu-
lation it is a paradise. In Europe all cannot have bread
and work. Their governments and social constitutions leave
them to suffer in silence ; and their more fortunate fellows
give them nothing but advice, — to be resigned. They are
like pegs driven into the ground, and must be content to
occupy the same places in the social organization from birth
till death. Of course all do not find America the land of
promise they expected ; but they may have land and liberty,
and that is all the Almighty gave Adam and Eve. It is
H*

162 KEEL AND SADDLE.

then, for them, a paradise. The emigrant comes to America,
and is received with an affectation of generosity : but it can-
not be denied, that, in giving this welcome, we obey our own
interest quite as much as the dictates of charity; and our
reception of him is not unmixed with ostentation.

After all, we are parvenus ; good, without being tender or
polished. We distribute to the emigrant tools and seeds ; ap-
portion to him, with a significant gesture, a portion of the
soil ; and go about our affairs, saying to him in effect, " Here
you are; fix yourself; I am busy." Thus those who receive
this curt hospitality are not oppressed with a load of obliga-
tion : they work, take root, and are soon occupied in conquer-
ing a position for themselves, and seeking rights denied them
elsewhere. They are not mendicants gratefully obliged, but
poor men who become citizens.

Among the ships in the harbor, I found an old friend of
other days in command of a brig from Honolulu, sitting in
solitary state in his cabin, his crew having left him. From
him I obtained a few barrels of potatoes which he had among
his stores, — poor and small, it is true, but the only ones to be
had ; and, with this prize seed, I returned to San Geronimo,
where I planted the precious seed in the enclosure.

I then left the place in charge of my Indian servants,
and addressed myself to the duties of my office as timber-
inspector.

In the intervals of these duties I piloted several vessels up
the Sacramento River, among which was a bark from Peru,
with a company of miners on board, organized at an immense
expense, and with whom I remained for several weeks.

While these Peruvians were working in the diggings, I
observed that they consumed much less provisions than other
miners, while doing the same amount of work, or even more ;
and that they also seemed better able to endure exposure to
the heat of the sun and the dews of night. Asking their

KEEL AND SADDLE. 163

director, a German, the reason of this, I was told that it was
owing to the use of " coca," an herb indigenous to Peru.
They had brought the coca with them, — dried, olive-shaped
leaves, of a dark-green color, and packed in sacks of matting
of about an arroba (twenty-five pounds) each. Each miner
had a small leather pouch for coca, and a small gourd filled
with pulverized lime. Three or four times daily they sus-
pended their labors to masticate coca in the following manner: —

First they selected the leaves, and carefully removed the
stalks, which they threw away. They then rolled the leaves
into a small ball, or quid, called an acullico, which they placed
in the mouth ; and thrusting a little stick into the gourd of
lime, its end being moistened, they drew it out, and punched
the acullico repeatedly with it. The lime soon mixed with
the coca in the process of mastication, and caused an abundant
flow of saliva, which was partly expectorated, and partly swal-
lowed. The strength of the quid having been exhausted, it
was thrown away, and a fresh one substituted. The coca is
prepared and used like the betel-nut of the Malays ; but, unlike
it, it does not stain the teeth black. I found, upon trial, that
coca has a pleasant, aromatic flavor something like tea-leaves ;
but my lips and gums were somewhat cauterized by the
lime. The average consumption by these miners was said to
be from one to one ounce and a half daily.

When excessively used, coca is said to cause a bad breath,
to color the gums, and to make the lips pallid. Sugar is some-
times used with the acullico. The inveterate coquero (coca-
eater) finds it difficult to abandon the habit when once acquired,
and returns to it frequently after successive discontinuances
like the confirmed opium-eater. Thus parties of coqueros
often meet clandestinely in Peru to enjoy their peculiar dissi-
pation. Coca is raised and cured in the mountainous districts of
Peru on the flanks of the Cordillera, whence it is sent to other
parts of the country. It is prophylactic, and slightly aperient ;

164 KEEL AND SADDLE,

and an infusion of its leaves makes an agreeable and strength-
ening drink. The price in Lima is about an ounce (sixteen
dollars) the arroba.

The moderate coquero goes through much toil with apparent
ease, and, as I have already said, consumes much less food
than those who do not use coca. I have been told wonderful
things by military officers serving in Peru, — of long marches
made by the soldiers of that country using coca on quarter
rations. No doubt this plant, so little known to other nations,
is one of Nature's inestimable blessings ; for, like others of her
gifts, it is not detrimental except when abused. It supports
the bodily strength, prevents muscular waste, and is said to
make one gay in spirits and long-winded.

My attention was drawn to one of the miners mentioned
above, named Pedro Beltran. I knew this man to labor hard
at "panning" dirt for a whole week on one scanty meal
of flour-cakes daily ; and he slept only two or three hours at
night. He need not have worked so hard ; but he told me
that he came to the bonanza to get money, and in the short-
est possible time. He made, that week, a little over eleven
hundred dollars, half of which went to the company by the
terms of his contract. The week after, he accompanied the
director and myself on foot on a prospecting tour lasting three
days, easily keeping up with our horses, although we travelled
at least thirty miles a day. He returned, seemingly not at
all fatigued by his long march, and resumed his labors.

I left him in the diggings working hard as ever "on his
own hook ; " for this company, like all the rest, soon broke up,
and Pedro went vigorously to washing gold-earth, stopping
only for his chaccar (quid, or chew). He was sixty years old,
and told me he had never been ill in his life. He was married,
and his wife had reared a family of eight sons and five daugh-
ters.

XXI.

MY crops turned out beyond my most sanguine expecta-
tions ; and I had the satisfaction of reaping a splendid
harvest, which was disposed of at high prices. Agriculture,
even the grazing interest, at that time the leading one of Cali-
fornia, had been entirely lost sight of, the whole population
having been busily engaged in securing the dazzling dust and
nuggets ; and food of all kinds was held at enormous prices.

Every article of breadstuff's was brought from abroad, while
the emigration of 1849 probably amounted to a hundred
thousand persons. The small seed-potatoes, not larger than a
walnut, which I planted, produced at least twenty-fold ; and the
improvement in quality over the seed was really wonderful.
The virgin soil, of pure vegetable humus, so nourished and
stimulated their growth, that I had several hundred bushels
of potatoes in the crop, each of which weighed ten pounds
avoirdupois, or over ; and the average of the rest would not
fall below a pound. The sale of this crop at one real
(twelve and a half cents) per pound, which was the market
price, fully repaid the expense and trouble of planting.

San Francisco had become a city of some forty thousand
people, and was the business centre of the rising State. With
the increase of population, the irregular placer-mining became
obsolete, or practised by those only for whom its adventurous
character had a peculiar charm ; while rude machinery, dams,

165

166 KEEL AND SADDLE.

conduits, canals, and sluice-ways, began to be constructed in
the mining regions.

Certain branches of industry, indispensable to the new state
of things and to the development of the country, were ex-
ploited ; and saw-mills, lime and brick kilns, and stone-quar-
ries, were established at favorable points ; while witb the
acquisition of wealth came the desire of enjoyment and com-
fort : fine houses were built, and mechanics of all kinds found
employment at high wages. The bonanza, no longer absorbed
all the laborers, many of whom, indeed, from choice, abandoned
the search for gold, tired of the exposures, hardships, and self-
denial which attended it.

The proverbial adaptation of the Yankee to every condition
of life was illustrated on every side ; but foreigners were not
behind him in bettering their fortunes in the new cities
springing up all over the country. Meanwhile, keeping pace
with the emigration from beyond the seas, a hardy though
rude population flocked into California from our Western
States, and, spreading themselves over the country in the
rural districts, settled down on " squatted " or purchased
farms, and set manfully to work to plough and sow.

The industrious and orderly, however, did not constitute the
only addition to the population ; for, following the law of civili-
zation, in their train came those who seem born only to prey
upon their fellows : and as " where the carcass is, there will
the eagles be gathered," New York sent out its "roughs,"
and Australia its " ticket-of-leave men ; " and desperadoes of
all kinds, finding a congenial field for their operations, effected
a regular organization, with ramifications all over the State. A
little later the people were aroused from their apathetic toler-
ance of these villains, who corrupted the very source and foun-
tains of justice ; and that sharp cure, the vigilance committees,
took them in charge with excellent results. The original sim-
plicity of California, as it was when we took military posses-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 167

sion, its patriarchal institutions and benevolent customs, as I
have endeavored to portray them in the " Tour of Duty," had
all vanished forever.

At the end of the rainy season, and the advent of the de-
lightful California spring, my little party of neighbors again
visited the mining regions, finding every thing changed in the
operations, which were now carried on in the neighborhood of
the water-courses. What I saw was hardly calculated to give
one an elevated idea of human nature. These scenes were at
once curious and sad to a thoughtful student of human nature.
I had been among tribes of barbarians, and on the islands of
the Pacific peopled with naked savages ; but here I found that
man is more of a savage when he has once lived in a civilized
condition, and retrogresses, than when born in barbarism. The
denizens of the mining region were indeed clothed, poorly
enough to be sure, but with some regard to decency ; but,
morally, they were utterly naked. The robes of hypocrisy
which clothe humanity elsewhere were thrown aside, and nei-
ther virtue nor modesty had any respect. " These seekers after
gold," thought I, " are in a hurry : they have no time to lose, and,
casting off all restraint, return to natural brutality. California
is to them a sort of chrysalis, from which they expect to emerge
furnished with new and gorgeous wings. It is a neutral ground ;
and they arrive here from an obscure past, in order to wrest from
it the elements of a purifying future."

" Auri sacra fames," I said, passing near a group earnestly
engaged with tin pan and " long torn " washing the auriferous
dirt. A young man looked up from his pan knowingly, but
without quitting his occupation. " Sir," said he, with a touch
of irony in his tone, " you will gain little here by selling quo-
tations. Had it been possible to live by such a trade, I should
not now be here ; for I have studied the ' humanities,' carried
off prizes, and learned by rote all that has been said against
money-getting. Had I time, I would answer you with Seneca}

168 KEEL AND SADDLE.

but we will adjourn that pleasure until we meet in New York.
In reply to your three words of Virgil, I will answer you
with Ovid, ' Effodiuntur opes, irritamenta malorum : ' I will
then lie back in my chair, and cry with Catullus, ' Me mea
paupertas ; ' with Horace, ' Aurea mediocritas ; ' and with
Juvenal, ' Obscena pecunia.' Now, my dear sir, I am too
poor to console myself with such trifles. 'Non in pane solo
vivit homo,' says the Scripture in our vulgate. And it is
true : dry bread is insipid. The meagre fortune I possessed
did not permit me to add to my daily crust the good wines and
succulent meats I coveted, as many horses as I liked to use,
and the sum of love necessary to my existence : so I came
here courageously to increase my resources. Should Fortune
not smile upon me, I will step into some druggist's shop, and
choose among the infernal distillations of death a remedy for
all ills."

" My dear sir," said I, " my little remark, or quotation, was
made without allusion to yourself or any individual ; and I am
sorry to have offended you."

" Oh ! no offence, sir, in the least," he returned : " your ex-
clamation produced a slight irritation ; that is all."

A shade of melancholy here passed over the young man's
face, replacing the feverish gayety with which he had just
spoken.

" Here," said he, offering me a small nugget : " put that on
your vest-chain. When you look at it, you will call to mind a
poor devil you met in the placer, who knew Latin, and who
was unhappy. After all," said the young man cheerfully,
" Juvenal is the only one who has the right expression, —
' Obscena pecunia.' "

Being interested in the youth, and inclined to serve him, I
proposed to him, on leaving the placer, that he should accom-
pany me.

" Thanks," said he. " But what would you do with me ?

KEEL AND SADDLE. 169

You cannot give me twenty thousand a year, can you? I
will not accept a humble position : and I have only one card
left to play ; that is myself. I will wait for the smiles of For-
tune. For those I brave fevers, Indian arrows, Yankee bowie-
knives, cholera, and wild beasts. Apparently you have enough
and to spare ; and you had better leave this. You excite jeal-
ousy and anger among us ; you are independent and happy ;
your presence here is a reflection upon us all ; and it will be an
act of charity on your part to disappear. Curiosity is abuse
for the prisoners one visits in a jail ; and we are the convicts,
sent here by an unknown code. We undergo our punishment
in this limbo, from which few escape alive. Depart, then ! Is
it such a fine spectacle to see men dispute each other's right to
a few square yards of soil impregnated with yellow dust ? to
see them murder each other for a look ? to refuse the water
that cleanses, the adieu which consoles, the tomb even, which,
perchance, is denied them after death ? Here the corpses are
left to rot on the surface. Digging is to take out gold; but to
dig a grave would seem sacrilege. We dig, we play, we die.
The expense of supporting life follows the same progression as
other expenses. A poor laborer may earn here twenty dollars
a day ; and the pulsations of our arteries are multiplied in
unison. Time passes not for us as for you. You are more
than a stranger to us : in fact, you are a monster.

" Go, then, sir ! Were you a doctor, now, you might serve us ;
for any chance barber coming this way visits the sick at an
ounce of gold a visit. Even then he wearies out Nature
by his treatment. Ah, sir ! you have, somewhere, a patri-
mony, a family : go and find them again. I will not advise
you to keep your fortune ; for, should I find one, I shall prob-
ably spend it all in a few years. I merely say that you had
better return to civilized lands ; to a happy country, in which
men are still men ; where the heart may complain of suffering,
and where all you have to combat is civilized egotism.

15

170 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Adieu!" said my philosopher with a smile, "^Eternumque
vale."

Returning to our ranches with a fair share of profits in the
autumn, we began the usual routine of work, holding a heiva-
dura (branding cattle) every week in succession on the
different ranches in accordance with the custom, and with the
not as yet obsolete laws of the mesta. Crops of vegetables
were not as remunerative as the year before, so many culti-
vators having entered the field, tempted by the high prices ;
and the business was overdone.

I built a new house on my place, and projected other im-
provements ; and my neighbors, stimulated at last to enterprise
in that direction, began to bestir themselves. But we were
all annoyed by the incursions of the " Gentiles," — as the wild
Indians are called in contradistinction to the " Christians," or
tame Indians, — who came stealthily upon our lands to steal
horses. The rogues always selected these animals, as they
could run them in a single night beyond all possible successful
pursuit.

At last, in self-defence, we organized an expedition to sup-
press these frays, and at the same time to indemnify ourselves,
by securing some of these " Gentiles," intending to keep them
as hostages, and to use them, meanwhile, as laborers. A coun-
cil of rancheros was accordingly summoned at the " Baulinas,"
— a rancho on the sea-coast belonging to Don Juan Briones, —
at which I assisted with several others ; and a plan of operation
was formed.

XXII.

rancheros, each with five to ten Indian vaqueros,
JLJ assembled at the rendezvous at the appointed time with
a caballada of some fifty excellent horses. The tame or Chris-
tian Indians enter into the spirit of these razzias with great
zest, and take keen delight in entrapping their wild relatives.
At the try sting-place Don Jose Annenteros was unanimously
chosen leader of our party, whom we were to ohey until the
termination of the expedition. He was the major-domo of
the ranchero Kafael Garcia, and noted as the best rider, the most
skilful riatero (thrower of the lasso), and the most accom-
plished in all the sports of the campo : he had also the advan-
tage of experience in similar expeditions. At the rendezvous
we began preparations for the expedition by a grand feast on
the supplies brought or sent there by the provident wives of
the raucheros, consuming all our stores in one night ; and then,
like Herman Cortes after he had burnt his ships, we were ready
to push into the wild regions before us, unencumbered with
whiskey or other groceries, and depending solely on the rifle
or the riata, for our subsistence. We carried with us a few
trinkets for trading.

At daylight we rose from the ground, and, taking a northerly
route, set forth into the wilderness at full gallop, the caballada
in advance, with all the vaqueros. headed by Armenteros. En-
camping in the woods north of Bodega the first night, we re-
sumed the march at early dawn, and rode all day through a

171

172 KEEL AND SADDLE.

beautiful and fertile country, more like a gentleman's park
than a primeval forest. The trees were superb, the Palo Colo-
rado (red wood), a kind of cedar; Wellingtonia ffiyantea,
coeval possibly with the Deluge ; the pinabete (a pine of great
size, hard and tough as oak) ; the madron, an orange-colored
wood, laurels, and bays, mixed with live-oak, alamos, and ala-
mitos (poplars) ; while the red berries of the mansanito, gleam-
ing in the undergrowth, formed a picture of arboreal splendor
nowhere else to be seen.

Now we ascended the spur of some mountain-range command-
ing a view of the sea on our left ; then plunged into a dense
forest; and anon crossed a broad and smiling savanna, enam-
elled with beautiful flowers of every hue and delightful per-
fume, romero (rosemary) being in great abundance. There
shone the lily of the valley, poppies, and tulips of every tint, the
aromatic anise-seed, the butterfly-flower, which is indigenous,
dancing on its long stem, an almost perfect counterpart of the
insect from which it takes its name ; here the humble canchala-
gua, a febrifuge, and the yerba del tos, a specific for pulmon-
ary and catarrh al complaints.

We killed a deer in the afternoon ; and, while selecting a
place for a bivouac, Armenteros lassoed a bear, on the savory
paws of which, a bonne bouche with hunters, we supped
heartily.

We were now in the Gentile country : so the next morning
a place of security for our caballada, abounding in grass and
water, was selected on a point of land projecting into the sea ;
and old Juan Briones, with two vaqueros, left to guard the
neck which connected it with the mainland. The rest of our
party continued their route.

Don Pepe, as Senor Armenteros was called, was now in his
element, and recounted many anecdotes of former raids. He
*ed our small but well-armed and mounted party in an easterly
direction until about noon, when we halted in a dense wood ;

KEEL AND SADDLE. 173

and he set out with one man, my Antonio, whom he selected
for his intelligence and courage, to seek an Indian village or
rancheria. Meanwhile we picketed our horses, and beguiled
the time with smoking and monte (Spanish game of cards).

At daylight Don Pepe and Antonio returned with an ally
in the person of a naked Indian, with shaggy, unkempt hair,
and a horrible squint. This worthy bore a wooden bow inge-
niously strengthened on the back with deer-sinews; and under
his arm, as the Devil in the song is said to have carried his tail,
he carried a quiver made of the skin of a cub bear, filled with
arrows tipped with obsidian, or volcanic glass, which abounds
here.

Don Pepe introduced his new ally as an old acquaint-
ance ; and we returned with him to his rancheria, he being,
according to our chief, muy bravo, and crafty as brave. We
found the rancheria in a valley near the sea, which was not
visible from our bivouac, but which we could distinctly smell,
in a most ancient and fish-like odor. Not wishing to share
the lodges of this untutored and unsavory race, we remained
in a grove on the outskirts of the village ; the Indians con-
tributing to our frugal evening meal some excellent salmon,
and melons from their milpa (garden).

Next morning we collected a few beads and light goods,
and invited the men to visit our camp : ladies are not allowed
that privilege among the Gentiles.

The eyes of the strabismic unfortunate grew more fixed
to the tip of his nose than ever at sight of our wonder-
ful treasures ; and I feared they would " shoot madly from
their spheres," so distended were they in admiration of the
many-colored beads, great needles, awls, mirrors, and knives
displayed in our camp. Encouraged by the cupidity of our
visitors, our spokesman began cautiously to approach the sub-
ject of our mission into their country ; but he found the wary
Gentiles better diplomatists than he imagined.
15*

174 KEEL AND SADDLE.

For two mortal hours the keen encounter of wits endured.
Don Pepe endeavored to induce the Indians to send men
from their rancheria to accompany us home, promising them
good cheer in plenty and a generous reward. But all his elo-
quence was in vain : so we broke up the conference, and prepared
to pass the day in quiet hy ourselves, consulting about future
movements, cleaning our arms, and recruiting our horses. In
the afternoon we were called upon by our cross-eyed friend
and another chief, and informed that we should have their
assistance in getting all the help we wanted, if we would be
guided by their advice, and grant their exorbitant demands.
It was plain that a council had been held, and that our allies
wanted to get rid of us, after obtaining certain articles they
coveted, especially fish-hooks, at the sight of which in the
forenoon they had greatly marvelled, never before having
seen steel or iron hooks. They also feared that we should
forcibly compel them to furnish the help we asked for : so,
like skilful diplomatists, they resolved to divert our military
prowess from themselves to their enemies. Accordingly an
harangue was addressed to Don Pepe, who understood the
Indian language, abounding in gestures and gutturals j which
he was desired to expound to us in good Castilian.

The whole story was to the effect that our hosts (as they
might have been termed) were a much-abused and long-suf-
fering people, honest and above horse-stealing ; while a neigh-
boring community some ten leagues away were vile oppressors
and bloody-minded villains, horse-thieves by profession, whom
it would be both just and creditable to capture and enslave, in
which laudable enterprise they would cheerfully aid us.
While still deliberating, our conference was suddenly broken
off by the appearance of Juan Briones and his vaqueros, who
brought the astounding intelligence that our whole caballada
had been stampeded and carried off by unknown Indians.
Briones himself and a vaquero were wounded by arrows ; and

KEEL AND SADDLE. 175

the other boy dragged along at the end of his lasso an Indian
pf dogged and sullen aspect.

While we were listening to the story of Briones, one of our
servants came up, and told us that every Indian in the
rancheria hard by had vanished. As these Indians instantly
kill and eat their stolen horses on reaching a place of secu-
rity, our indignation was at once aroused ; and we prepared
to follow the trail, and rescue our caballada of over forty
fine, well-trained steeds, amongst which were many especial
pets of every individual of our party. Rafael Garcia particu-
larly lamented a gallant pinto (spotted horse), threatening to
cut his pedazos (morsels) out of the ugly maw of any Gentile
who had eaten him ; and all our party of rancheros imagined
their noble steeds cut, slashed, and carbonadoed to make a
banquet for thieving and graceless heathens.

Luckily Don Pepe had secured the persons of the two
chiefs, at Briones' first intimation of our loss, before they
could escape ; and instant death was now denounced upon them
if our horses were not recovered by the morning's light.
Making a virtue of necessity, these worthies communicated
with their subordinates, who had taken refuge in the inacces-
sible undergrowth hard by, and collected a party of twenty
braves of their rancheria, armed with clubs, wooden spears,
and bows and arrows. The big chief was lashed securely to a
vaquero of our party as a hostage ; and the whole party
started for the hills.

We soon struck the trail of our horses ; and it was so broad
and plain, that we pursued it at full speed, our Indian allies
stopping occasionally to verify it, while the moon shone
in unclouded brilliancy after the short twilight had passed
away. Don Pepe rode far ahead of the main body with his
vaqueros, keeping a sharp lookout on the Indian runners,
who out-travelled our horses, and seemed to enjoy the sport
of tracking their fellow-men and brothers quite as well as we

176 KEEL AND SADDLE,

did. I have often observed this peculiarity among savages
when backed by whites.

About midnight we noticed that the hoof-tracks were
quite fresh in the moist ground, ana by other signs we knew
we were not far in the rear of our caballada and their ab-
ductors. We now relaxed our speed, and proceeded cau-
tiously, in order not to alarm the Indian camp, upon which
we might come at any moment. At last it was reported
near at hand ; and we dismounted, leaving our horses under
charge of our vaqueros, while we silently and stealthily ap-
proached the village on foot.

The little rancheria of lodges built of slender sticks, wat-
tled with grass and mud, huddled around the usual temascal
(sweat-house), indispensable in every place of the kind, lay in
the gorge of a canon (gulley) ; while the hills rose steep
around it on every side, save that by which we approached.

No sound broke the solemn stillness of the night, and the
whole scene was brightly illuminated by the moon and twinkling
stars.

These Indians had no domestic animals whatever, not even
dogs; which lack accounted for the silence, which remained
unbroken, until, on a nearer approach, we heard the stamping
of our captured horses from a rude corral near the sweat-house.
Don Pepe instantly formed his plan. We withdrew again to
our cover, each of us being assigned his place. The plan was
explained to the Indians, the main body of whom, led by Don
Pepe, making a detour round the village, climbed the hillside,
and took up a position at the head of the canon in order to
cut off the retreat of men and horses to the hills. The rest
of us were to attack in front on signal from our leader, and
simultaneously with his party.

At two o'clock the moon had set, and the village was but
faintly illuminated by the stars ; when a group of Indians,
asleep until then, aroused themselves under our very eyes from

KEEL AND SADDLE. 177

their first nap, and gathered around a fire, whose embers they
raked into activity, and began cooking, eating, and gambling,
often wrangling with each other as they tossed the bones.
We could even smell the savory horsemeat as it spluttered on
the coals ; and Rafael Garcia felt a bitter pang at the reflec-
tion that it might be a part of his inestimable pinto, for which
he had refused five hundred dollars.

We waited in silence for an hour or more, until the first
faint, gray streaks of dawn appeared in the east; when the
Indians of the rancheria gradually ceased from gambling, and
sank again in sleep.

The gray tints now became ashes-of-rose color, and the radi-
ance of the stars was slightly dimmed, when from the head
of the canon came the cry of the coyote — the small wolf of
the country — thrice repeated. This was the signal for
mounting before the onset.

We all bestrode our horses, and a few minutes passed in
breathless expectation : then, from the same quarter, came the
old Spanish war-cry " Santiago " from the deep chest of Don
Pepe Armenteros, followed by the shrill war-whoop of our
Indian allies. This ancient war-cry is still used l>y the de-
scendants of those heroes from whose lips it aroused the echoes
of many a bloody field in bygone ages. It was the signal for
the charge of mail-clad knights against Moor and Saracen,
against Mexican and Peruvian, in later times ; and now we
heard repeated in these untrodden wilds the battle-cry of the
Cid, of Ferdinand of Aragon, of Gonsalvo de Cordova, Don
John of Austria, Pizarro, Cortes, and Almagro, — " Santiago
y cierra Espana " (" Santiago and close Spain ").

We instantly moved up, and, intervening between the fire
and the corral, stood guard to prevent the horse-thieves from
stampeding our imprisoned animals, to which they instinctively
rushed when aroused from their sleep. The Indian horde, thus
meeting our levelled fire-arms and lances, faced instantly in the

178 KEEL AND SADDLE.

opposite direction, but were intercepted by our leader and his
party, and turned again on us, using war-clubs, spears, and
bows, while a crowd of squaws in their rear hurled stones and
sticks at us over their heads.

The 'melee became general, and shot after shot was heard ;
while sabres, lances, and fire-arms met the ruder Indian weap-
ons in a hand-to-hand conflict. Some of the Indians, diving
under the bellies of our horses, succeeded in breaking down the
corral ; but our vaqueros secured the breach before the animals
could escape, and the enterprise was not renewed. The con-
test ceased at last, the Indians sulkily retiring out of harm's
way when convinced that they had no chance of success;
and their head men sullenly informed us that they wanted
peace.

It was granted as soon as asked for : our object was at-
tained ; and we recovered all the horses, save one that had been
devoured, without the loss of a man, although most of our
party were badly bruised by the shillelahs of the Indians, and
several received arrow and spear wounds.

Fortunately these horse cannibals had selected for their
feast an animal more fit for eating than for his other quali-
ties.

We now prepared to inspect and adjudge the spolia opima
of our vanquished foe ; but there being but little materiel, and
that little having been appropriated by our Indian allies in
their way, we hesitated not to seize the personnel we had
legitimately acquired, according to the notions prevalent at
that time in California. The prisoners thus pressed into our
service were divided equally among our party, submitting
resignedly and even joyfully to their fate : they selected those
of their squaws and children whom they wished to accompany
them ; and we all left for home, after rewarding our Indian
allies. Arriving at our respective ranches, our captives were
soon domiciled, and supplied with full rations of beef; and, hav-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 179

ing finished their task of making adobes (sun-dried bricks) for
building-purposes, they were permitted to depart, laden with
good shirts and blankets.

Two of the " bucks " remained with me, preferring good liv-
ing and kind treatment to their precarious, half-starved condi-
tion in their native wilds ; and, from savage and graceless
" Gentiles," were converted into decent and respectable " Chris-
tianos."

I remained at San Geronimo, attending to my duties both
public and private ; but, near the end of the year 1849, I re-
signed my commission as lieutenant in the United-States
navy, hopeless of promotion after twenty years of service, yet
reluctant to abandon my profession.

XXIII.

AMONG my guests at San Geronimo during this rainy
season was one Sandy (or Alexander) McGregor, a
Kentuckian born of Scotch parents ; and, large as has been
my acquaintance with mankind, really the most remarkable
man I ever met, albeit utterly unknown to fame.

The most gifted persons, I have long ago ascertained, are by
no means the most celebrated or notorious ; and I have known
several instances of those in the humbler walks of life, of the
finest natural ability, and even of deep erudition, who have
never aspired to rise in the social scale by means of their tal-
ents or learning, improbable as this may seem.

Of this sort was Sandy McGregor. His physique instantly
commanded attention, especially his high frontal bones, rising
almost into deformity, crowned with red hair and shaggy
brows, beneath which his piercing gray eyes seemed to glow
with real fire. He was slightly above the medium height,
lank and raw-boned ; and his sinewy arms were as long as
Scott has told us were his clansman Rob Roy's, who could tie
his garters below the knee without stooping. He was a good
rider, an unerring shot ; and his muscular strength was her-
culean.

His character was as remarkable as his physical organiza-
tion. I have never met with any man of such truly heroic
attributes as this obscure Kentuckian, who was destined to go
through the world without an opportunity of displaying them
180

KEEL AND SADDLE. 181

on a stage commensurate with their importance. His courage
was of the lofty kind usually found among Kentuckians;
added to which he had an imperturbable sang-froid that was
equal to any emergency, not only in situations of personal
peril, but also in financial or business operations where great
daring and quick calculation were essential to success.

He acted promptly and decided quickly, like most frontiers-
men accustomed to a life of constant danger ; and carried his
decisions into effect with a power of will as fixed and inevita-
ble as the fabled Nemesis.

This man's intellect was of the highest order : he had a power
of combination I have never seen equalled; and his memory
was so remarkable, that he could relate even the most minute
transaction of his life with perfect distinctness.

He was obstinate, — mulish even; and his opinions once
formed were unchangeable : but he was generous to a fault ;
and, without being impulsive, was a true and reliable friend.

In this sententiousness he had reason ; for his estimate of
men and their acts was generally as correct as a geometrical
problem. By some process of ratiocination which I never
could comprehend, and of which he himself could give no
lucid explanation, McGregor could at once resolve the most
intricate arithmetical questions that might be proposed.

With all his wonderful genius, this singular being had
received no education, being entirely ignorant of letters : he
could not write a line of intelligible English, or even sign his
own name. True, he did make certain marks with a pen that
looked like it, as he was sometimes called upon to authenticate a
document by his signature ; but it could hardly be taken for
what it purported to be, had the scrawl not been attested by
an intricate rubrica (flourish) in the Spanish manner.

McGregor was a man of wealth, possessed of real estate
and stock of different kinds : he not only had investments in
the principal cities of the United States, but had also dealings
16

182 KEEL AND SADDLE.

with bankers in the European commercial centres; and his
paper was good in all. His large property was intrusted to
agents of his own selection, who were accountable to him alone,
while he picked up amanuenses wherever he might be for his
correspondence.

The parents of McGregor died of the cholera in 1832 : and
he had not a relative in the world, as he told me ; for he was
a bachelor.

He had left his home at eleven years of age ; since when he
had roamed over the continent, having adopted the wild, free,
and independent life of a trapper and fur-trader. In this
capacity he passed many years without seeing a white face,
and was a chief in some Indian tribes.

Having accumulated a pecuniary nucleus by that traffic, he
increased his capital by judicious speculations. Sandy had
been converted to the Catholic faith by Father De Smets, the
celebrated Jesuit missionary to the tribes of the Rocky Moun-
tains : and I was sometimes astonished to hear this unlettered
demi-savage talk about the abstruse theological discussions he
had entered into with learned persons of other denominations ;
for, whatever he attempted to learn, he mastered thoroughly.

With all these, and higher qualities I need not describe,
McGregor had his failings. He could hardly be called intem-
perate ; for, although he often indulged in potations " pottle
deep," I never knew his reason to be clouded, or his motions
unsteady: he betrayed his "elevation" only by 'his Scotch
fondness for argument on such occasions. But his besetting
sin was play. He was the most inveterate gamester I ever
knew ; and I have known many.

All games of chance were familiar to him : but poker, brag,
and euchre were his favorites ; and he frequently sat at these
games for several consecutive days and nights, his adversaries
relieving each other when exhausted ; but there never was a sign
of weariness in his iron frame and tenacious spirit. He would

KEEL AND SADDLE. 183

play for any amount, great or small, and with any one who
would play with him : he preferred gentlemen, if he could have
them, and high stakes ; but, if no others offered, I have known
him to sit down with a poor Mexican or Indian, and play for
clacos.

One night, when I was sitting with McGregor, a neighbor
came to my house with the intelligence that a ship had been
wrecked at the Punta de los Reyes, a bold promontory stretch-
ing into the Pacific about four or five leagues from San Ge-
ronimo, and that the whole rural population was in motion for
the scene of the disaster. At daylight we also started with
our vaqueroS) arriving quite early at the rancho of Rafael
Garcia, which was the only inhabited place in the vicinity
of the wreck.

The vessel proved to be a large bark from Bremen, as we
were informed by her captain, who had landed safely with his
crew and passengers ; the latter having immediately left for
the gold diggings. He had mistaken the mouth of the Estero
de los Tamales for the harbor of San Francisco ; and, attempt-
ing to enter it, his vessel had struck upon a reef, and almost
immediately broken up. The shores of the estuary we're cov-
ered with pipes, hogsheads, casks, barrels, and boxes of mer-
chandise of every description ; the ship having been laden
with an assorted cargo of European goods. Many residents
of the surrounding region had already arrived, and were help-
ing themselves to these articles, to which their "right there
was none to dispute ; " while the jolly proprietor of the soil
dreamed not of asserting his rights of " flotsam and jetsam."

There were cases of the finest wines and liquors, sardines
and sweetmeats, all unknown to the primitive rancheros : and
the men were securing these ; while the women were breaking
open cases of silk and woollen fabrics of delicate texture and
gorgeous dyes, disdaining the commoner cotton prints, which
they left for their Indian servants. These lighter articles

184 .. KEEL AND SADDLE.

having been appropriated galore, the multitude turned their
attention to the plethoric casks and barrels which were thump-
ing in the surf, as if they, too, were desirous of being assisted
up high and dry on the beach, to share the fate of their more
buoyant shipmates. The wind, blowing directly into the
estuary, drove the whole cargo, or as much of it as would float,
right on the beach, where it could be secured : so the people
had only to help themselves.

The lord of the manor, Don Rafael, and his hospitable family,
quickly converted the occasion into one of festivity ; and the
poor rancho resembled the mansion of Magnus Troil on the
night of the ball. The long, low, one-storied house, with its
spreading eaves, was profusely illuminated with the best wax-
candles in bronze or plated candelabra of artistic patterns,
adorned with artificial flowers of every hue ; while the rugged
walls were concealed with framed engravings : and beneath
them was arrayed elegant furniture in buhl and marquetrie,
on which stood crowds of bottles, from which the company re-
galed themselves with unlimited champagne, and the delicate
wines of the Rhine and Burgundy, and toasted old Father
Neptune in gratitude for his beneficence.

Instead of tortillas — the national griddle-cake — we had
soda, wine, and captain's biscuits; and pale defoie f/ras took
the place of beefsteaks broiled on the coals, — called came
asado.

The rancheros, who had brought their guitars and fiddles
strapped on their backs, soon struck up merry tunes ; and
the light-hearted Spanish girls and their cavaliers danced the
jarabe, the waltz, and other national dances, all night long ;
while the elders sat about amusing themselves with monte
and euchre.

Fat muttons and beeves were slaughtered by Don Rafael ;
and the cocina was alive with women preparing the various
dishes affected by native Californians, seasoned with the con-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 185

diments saved from the wreck. Wearied at last, I went forth
to enjoy the fresh air, and found myself in the presence of a
strange scene. Those guests who were, like myself, tired of
dancing, or were desirous of sleep from other reasons, lay
around the house on the grass under the trees (no hardship
in this lovely climate), rolled in their gay scrapes ; or were
lounging in groups, smoking the eternal cigarette.

I even fancied there were some couples improving the occa-
sion to enjoy each other's society while their parents were
absorbed in cards, or who snored, oblivious of their children
and all the world besides.

The next morning I was early afoot, but found all the guests
already risen, and awaiting their desayuna, which they took
alfresco, there being no room within-doors, nor tables enough
to hold a hundredth part of the company. It was the jolliest
merienda (picnic) I ever attended, and was kept up for a
whole week.

In the daytime we had exhibitions of skill with the lasso,
the game of colear, — in which a party on horseback chase a
wild bull, and try to upset him by his tail, — cavaliers trying
to unhorse each other ; and one day a large grisly bear was
tied to a fierce bull with a riata, and both turned into a corral
to fight. The bull was victorious, — viva el toro, — killing the
bear, although dreadfully lacerated; after which feat he was
magnanimously liberated to rejoin his harem in the wild
woods.

The captain of the lost bark made a trip to San Francisco
and returned before the festivities were over; and the novel
spectacle pleased him much ; although, poor man, he told us he
had lost his little all, and would have to begin life anew, with
the disadvantage of this misfortune upon him. Still, he said,
he was in a country where, above all others, there were oppor-
tunities to retrieve his losses.

Before he left us, he accompanied McGregor and myself to
• 16*

186 KEEL AND SADDLE.

the wreck in a canoe. The ship had drifted or been forced
over the reef into still water under its lee. The captain told
us that in the run, under the floor of the cabin, was a little
iron safe, containing a small sum of money, some valuable
articles, and a lot of papers; which last he was exceedingly
desirous to recover. He said that if we could get these papers
for him, even if wet, we were welcome to the remainder of the
contents of the safe, which would well repay us for our trouble ;
and having received his address, and promising to mention
the subject to no other parties, we separated.

We could do nothing at the time of our visit to recover this
safe, as the quarter-deck was several fathoms under the surface
of the water, and operating from a rickety canoe was impos-
sible. The great fandango having come to an end at last, the
merry party separated, returning to their homes with their
valuable acquisitions, and with the consciousness of a well-
spent holiday, whose pleasures no untoward circumstance had
occurred to mar.

McGregor and I returned to San- Geronimo, and set about
concocting a plan to recover the captain's iron safe. Our
preparations being completed, we set out for the estuary, but
avoided the house of Garcia, preferring to keep our business to
ourselves. We encamped in a well-sheltered and concealed
nook on a beach between two headlands, and came prepared
to spend a week if necessary. Our first step was to send an
Indian boy to get the canoe we had used before, and which
was the only boat in the Estero de los Tamales. Then we
made a raft, under my directions, of the empty casks and drift-
wood, of which there was plenty in the neighborhood, lashing
its -parts securely with some small manila cordage I had
brought with me.

This raft we towed off to the wreck at slack-water early in
the morning before the wind had risen, and brought it over
the quarter-deck of the submerged vessel. I had secured the

KEEL AND SADDLE. 187

services of a native of the Sandwich Islands, who was a skil-
ful diver, like all his countrymen ; and from the raft he went
down upon the ship's deck, and, after considerable exertion,
succeeded in getting the companion-way detached from its
place on the quarter-deck. The cabin was now open to us.
Our diver next pried off the scuttle in the cabin-floor leading
to the run, and, finding the iron safe directly beneath it, made
ropes fast to it ; and we suspended it to the raft.

We then towed the raft back to the beach, and soon landed
the safe. This we blew open with gunpowder, and found its
valuable contents uninjured. We gave the captain his papers
and half the money: the other half and the jewelry we di-
vided between us.

As we could work only when the sea was calm, our opera-
tions lasted nearly a week ; but our time just then was of little
account.

XXIV.

IN the month of September, 1851, my friend McGregor
and myself planned a voyage from San Francisco to the
coast of Mexico, and purchased together the brigantine "La
Golondrina," a clipper of two hundred tons burthen, built in
Ferrol, Spain, from a Baltimore model. She had a Spanish
register, and, consequently, sailed under Spanish colors. Tak-
ing command of this little vessel, I shipped a crew of twenty
men, and fitted her for sea. Our crew was as cosmopolitan as
San Francisco itself. My chief mate was a Yankee from
Truro on Cape Cod, the best man on board ; the second officer
a hardy Dane ; and the boatswain was my old shipmate whom
I have mentioned as receiving me with such lavish hospitality
when I landed in California from the steamer. The crew
consisted of four Dutchmen and a Finn, two Italians, one
Frenchman, two Spaniards, and five Kanakas. The cook was
a North-Carolina darky named Job.

Having been a packet, "The Golendrina" had superior
accommodations. She carried two twelve-pound carronades,
or howitzers, in the waist, one on each side, and a long nine-
pound pivot-gun of bronze on the forecastle, with the necessary
ammunition and small-arms.

Sandy McGregor knocked two berths into one to accommo-
date his long legs ; and, as supercargo, purchased, and stowed
away under hatches, a notable cargo of Chinese goods for the
market to which we were bound. We made a good run down

188

KEEL AND SADDLE. 189

the coast, and, having disposed of our cargo to advantage, took
in a return freight, which was landed in due season at San
Francisco.

The business proving remunerative, we soon started on a
second trip, touching at Cape St. Lucas, thence to La Paz,
Loreto, and Mulege, ports of the Sea of Cortes, and to
Guaymas, where we remained for some weeks ; then, having
finished our business, we continued our voyage down the
eastern shore of the Gulf of California. The tract of country
lying between the embouchures of the Hiaqui and Mayo Bivers
is peopled with a race of fierce and intractable Indians, with
whom the Spaniards have had much trouble since the days of
Cortes, who gives them the same warlike character in the
account of his voyage of discovery to this sea, which bears his
name. Their territory, however, is claimed, under certain
grants, by some Mexican proprietors, who have possession in
some places, the inhabitants of which pay them a sort of feudal
tribute. Most of the tribes live in independent communities,
and are very warlike. Large tracts are owned and peopled in
this way by the two rival families of Inigo and Gandara, who
keep the State of Sonora in constant turmoil with their con-
flicting pretensions ; being, indeed, the Guelphs and Ghibellines
of the country. The object of their contentions is, as usual
in like cases, political, — the filling of the offices, and conse-
quent power of laying imposts and taxes, and receipt of the
customs.

In passing this part of the coast a day or two after leaving
Guaymas, running before the trade-wind, we espied a vessel
ashore on the beach ; and, feeling our way with the lead, stood
in as close as was prudent. She proved to be a polacca-brig
high and dry on the beach. Her bows were nearest the shore,
her .stern being seaward, and her crew were crowded together
aft; while a swarm of naked Indians on the beach were shoot-
ing their arrows and hurling spears at them, occasionally

190 KEEL AND SADDLE.

trying to board over the bows. As soon as this state of affairs
was understood, I ordered the anchor let go, hoisted out and
manned the launch and two whale-boats, putting one of the
carronades into the former, and, with nearly my whole crew
in the boats, pulled for the wreck. Nearing her, I saw that
boarding would be dangerous in the state of the sea : so, con-
sulting with McGregor, I resolved to disperse the Indians
first, and then attempt the rescue of the people on the brig.
The Indians were frantic at the prospect of a rescue, and
redoubled their efforts to board; so that the crew had their
hands full in repelling them.

McGregor and the second mate, with eighteen of my men,
armed with muskets and bayonets, in the two whale-boats,
now landed through the high surf that was running on the
beach ; while I, in the launch, brought the gun to bear upon
the Indian rout, having let go my grapnel over the stern, thus
anchoring the launch just outside the surf. As soon as I saw
the whale-boats land, I fired the carronade, loaded with grape,
into the crowd ; and at the same time McGregor charged them
with the bayonet, after a volley. The Indian mob opened and
admitted our sailors, closing upon their rear ; and I feared, for
a moment, that they must be surrounded and all killed or
taken prisoners : but a second shot from my carronade caused
the Indians to waver; and I saw McGregor and his men
re-appear, maintaining an effective fire. Sandy himself seemed
to clear his way with his long and keen sabre wherever he
moved; and the sheen of its blade was dimmed by blood.
Our men kept together, back to back, in two small groups, as
they had been instructed, like what is called a Prussian or
light-infantry square, which enabled me to fire an occasional
shot at the Indians without hurting my own fellows. The
Indians at last were convinced, that, with their inferior
weapons, they could not successfully oppose us, and that mere
numbers would not give them the victory ; for they had not

KEEL AND SADDLE. 191

injured a single man of our force, while many of them had bit
the dust. So they began to scatter, retreating a short dis-
tance, apparently to hold a council.

I had no desire to see the combat renewed, and, sending a
round shot at the enemy, sounded the recall, and my boats
came alongside the launch. The casualties were few: four
men had broken heads, and three had spear and arrow
wounds; while McGregor reported six bodies of the enemy
left on the field, of which he grimly exhibited the scalps. He
had acquired the Indian habit of preserving trophies of his
victory. He said that they had carried off many dead and
wounded in their retreat, and would not trouble us again ; in
which opinion I fully agreed with him.

We now turned our attention to the crew of the brig ;
and veering a line to them from the windward, out of the
launch, thus established communication. We then brought
them one by one — seventeen men and one lady — aboard the
launch, together with some wearing apparel and a few articles
of value, returned to "The Golondrina," and gained tfie offing.
We lay off and on during the night, and stood in on the next
morning, at the solicitation of the captain, intending to recover
some of the lading of the brig if it were possible. She had,
however, broken in two during the night; and the Indians
swarmed in such numbers on the beach, that I abandoned the
plan, and continued our voyage. The brig was " The Her-,
mosa Gaditana " of Cadiz, on a trading voyage. Her passen-
gers and crew were profuse in their expressions of gratitude to
us for saving them from death, which assuredly would have
been their fate at the hands of the savage Hiaquis.

Touching at Altata, in a few days I landed them all safely
at Mazatlan ; for which I have since received substantial
acknowledgments from the Spanish Government and others.

Vessels arriving at Mexican ports with merchandise are
commonly admitted to discharge their cargoes only after a

192 KEEL AND SADDLE.

tedious negotiation with the administrador (collector), and
much bargaining with the underlings of the customs as to the
scale of duties to he paid, which leads to tiresome delays; and
do not usually anchor in the port until the negotiation is con-
cluded. The arancel (tariff) is seldom adhered to, or even
taken as a guide : so that you never know how much or how
little duty you will have to pay.

This state of things produces frightful corruption and
bribery, and encourages smuggling, which is connived at by
the officials, who do not scruple to make out of their official
positions as much money as they can.

In our case, finding we could come to no satisfactory agree-
ment with the resguardo of Mazatlan, after anchoring I sent
McGregor in a boat to San Bias ; whence he returned in a
few days with the announcement that our goods would be
admitted at that port on much more reasonable terms than at
Mazatlan. San Bias, also, had the advantage of proximity to
the interior lines' of travel and transportation. " The Golon-
drina " was always ready for sea : so Sandy and myself went
ashore to the counting-house of a merchant who had accepted
the draft of our consignee in Guaymas for thirty thousand
dollars ; which amount was paid in golden ounces, and taken
charge of by my partner, who secured it round his waist in a
handkerchief.

The Mexican laws are very severe against the exportation
of bullion under any circumstances; and it is necessary to
smuggle it out of the country at great risk, heightened by the
promise to informers of one-half the forfeited amount. The
officials, consequently, have sharp eyes for smugglers. Sandy
determined to take the chances ; and together we walked lei-
surely down to the quay, past the custom-house, with its loun-
ging officials, and entered our whale-boat, and shoved off.
Whether my partner had put on too bold an air as he passed
this group, marching with his head in the air and regarding

KEEL AND SADDLE. 193

them defiantly, or whether his gait betrayed his secret burden,
I know not ; but we had scarcely got a boat's length from the
quay when an inspector came running down from the custom-
house, shouting to us to return. The guard, loading their
pieces, followed him, under command of a sergeant.

My partner and I exchanged glances without speaking, and
instantly understood that we must keep all the advantage we
had, and continue our course to the vessel. I therefore called
upon the men to stretch to their oars, and give way with a
will ; and the light whale-boat flew through the water. We
had about two miles to row; but, when we had made about
half the distance, we saw the captain of the port's gig in full
chase, and rapidly gaining on us. "Now," said I, "Mac,
throw the money overboard ; for, if it is found on us, we shall
have twenty years of presidio." — "No," said he coolly:
"wait."

Not knowing what his plans were, but confiding in his
resources, I kept silence. Our boat ran alongside " The Go-
londrina," and we went up the side. McGregor went forward ;
while I remained on the quarter-deck to receive the captain of
the port, who soon reached the vessel.

In the expression of his face I saw at once that he knew all
about the money; and he told me politely, but firmly, that he
came to take possession of the vessel. Though strongly
tempted to pitch him overboard, I restrained myself, and stood
quiet while he summoned from his boat his most skilful de-
tectives, and began to ransack the little vessel. They were
evidently old hands at the business, and searched everywhere
for two mortal hours ; when they ceased. The bland captain
then took his leave, giving me to understand that he should
return soon ; and, if the money was not forthcoming, he should
unship the rudder, and unbend my sails. The vessel would be
libelled in the court of admiralty ; and, meanwhile, he should
leave an officer on board until he returned.
17

194 KEEL AND SADDLE,

Although my partner was present during our conversation,
his conduct was an enigma to me ; for he never lost his
sang-froid, and did nothing but smile at the threats of the
official or my own misgivings : but when dinner was served
in the cabin, after the departure of the port-captain, his com-
posure was accounted for. Honest Job brought his capacious
iron pot into the pantry, as usual, to dip up the meal, and
from its depths fished out Sandy's pongee handkerchief, con-
taining the gold which had been so diligently sought for by
the myrmidons of the -customs. My partner then told me,
that, while coming alongside in the boat, he had caught sight
of Job's ebon visage, busy near his galley-fire, and, by a gleam
of inspiration, conceived the idea of hiding his treasure by
popping it into the cook's kettle ; which he lost no time in do-
ing, telling Job to continue his avocation with an appearance
of indifference.

Our merriment over the successful result of his ruse, how-
ever, was suddenly cut short by the darkening of the cabin
skylight ; and, looking up, we saw the head of the officer whom
Capt. Horn had left on board at his departure, and who could
not restrain a Spanish exclamation at sight of the treasure lying
before us.

The situation now called for prompt measures. The angry
inspector was quickly bundled into a boat, and transferred to a
small vessel near us; our anchor was tripped, and sail made;
and, in less than twenty minutes, we were gliding towards the
entrance of the harbor. We soon gained an offing : but, as
usual in this latitude, the wind fell towards night ; and the
next morning the high peak of Creston, marking the port,
was still in sight. We were in good spirits, however, as \ve
had outwitted the custom-house officials, and at sea with our
ship and cargo under us. Just after breakfast, looking toward
Mazatlan, we saw with the glass two large balandras (large
launches) and a man-of-war's boat coming out of the harbor;

KEEL AND SADDLE. 195

and, as they approached us, we saw that the former, besides
their usual crews at the oars, were crowded with Mexican sol-
diers, while we knew at once that the man-of-war boat was
from the British frigate " Constance."

We had no alternative but to prepare for action immedi-
ately; knowing that, if we yielded, imprisonment and confis-
cation of ship and cargo would inevitably follow : so we got the
long nine up on the forecastle, fixed it on its pivot, cast loose
and shotted the carronades, and laid muskets, pistols, cutlasses,
and boarding-pikes in readiness for use; while the men col-
lected at their quarters, delighted at the prospect of a row with
the "greasers."

As the boats came nearer, the Spanish flag was run up to
the peak ; and I hailed them through the trumpet, telling
them to keep off, and training the guns upon them, with
lighted port-fires.

The English boat kept farther off than the others : and I
concluded she would take no part in the combat, if one en-
sued ; although she had a small boat-gun in her bow, and ten
armed and red-coated marines in her stern-sheets. It is the
practice of British ships of war abroad to mix up with the
quarrels of others, — I suppose, under instructions from home;
and they seem to be a sort of self-constituted ocean-police for
all nations.

Any active interference with my vessel would have come
with exceeding i)l grace at that time ; for " The Constance "
was well known to be full of contraband bullion, her boats hav-
ing been engaged in smuggling plata pina (brute silver) ever
since the ship had been on the coast : but perhaps the captain
thought he had a monopoly of the business, and was inclined
to use his force and the prestige of the British navy to pre-
vent others from sharing it, under the specious pretext of vin-
dicating the Mexican laws.

My hail was answered by Capt. Horn, from one of the ba-

196 KEEL AND SADDLE.

landras, with a summons to surrender. To this I answered
that my vessel was at sea, more than a marine league from
Creston, and consequently out of the Mexican jurisdiction ;
that my duty compelled me to maintain my maritime rights
and those of other interested parties ; that he had better give
up the idea of meddling with me ; and finally, to cut the matter
short, that, if he attempted to invade my vessel, I should treat
him as a pirate. As this speech — shouted through the trum-
pet in Spanish, ore rotunda — concluded, my men gave a loud
and defiant cheer. The three boats then drew together, ap-
parently to concert a plan of attack ; and, a light air spring-
ing up, we hauled by the wind on the starboard tack, hauled
up the foresail, and braced the maintopsail aback, to show we
did not fear them, 'nor wished to use our heels — which we
might easily have done — to escape.

The balandras then separated ; one pulling ahead of the
vessel to board over the bows, while the other made for the
starboard gangway. The English boat remained in reserve,
attempting no demonstration.

Hans Petersen, the second mate, stood at his gun in the
starboard waist, port-fire in hand; and, when the second ba-
landra was within pistol-shot, a soldier fired his piece at me,
standing on the poop, the ball whistling harmlessly through
the mainsail. Instantly I gave the order, " Fire ! " Bang
went the carronade right into the bows of the boat ! The
sea was freckled with grape ; and, in an instant, Horn and his
whole crew were struggling in the water, which was tinged
with blood. The other balandra, which was pulling toward the
bows, seeing the saucy " Golondrina " coming toward her with
a "bone in her mouth," — for I had filled away with the inten-
tion of running her down, — rowed across our course to avoid
collision ; and we passed on, tacked, and came towards the boats
on the port tack again.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 197

They had had enough, however; for the cry of "Misericor-
dia " was raised on our approach : and leaving them to assist
the sunken boat, and rescue her crew, I wore ship, and bore
away for San Bias.
17*

XXV.

~T"T~rE did not touch at San Bias, as we knew the report of
V V our affair at Mazatlaii would soon reach there ; and,
preferring to keep out of the way for some time until the
memory of it had blown over, we kept on our southerly course
for a few days, and anchored at last in the Bay of Manzanilla.
Colima is the most secluded of all the Mexican States ; the
roads leading to it being exceedingly rough, and its capital dif-
ficult of access by land ; while its commerce is very insignifi-
cant, although the harbor of Manzanilla is a commodious and
excellent one. We found no vessels at this port, nor had any
visited it for a long time ; so that our advent was warmly wel-
comed. The customs-people were exceedingly accommodating ;
and we found them very open to the smallest yratificacioncita
in expediting our little comercio with the towns and villages
of the neighborhood. We were soon welcome guests every-
where ; and the little contretemps at Mazatlan, although soon
made known to them, with its attendant loss of life, proved
rather a recommendation than a disadvantage, if we could
judge from the hospitality with which we were everywhere
received.

In company with a party, among whom was a European
gentleman of scientific attainments, I visited that great
natural curiosity, the volcanic mountain of Colima, which,
were Mexico better provided with accommodations for travel-
lers, hundreds would visit. Having seen the most gigantic

198

KEEL AND SADDLE. 199

of all the volcanoes, Mouna Loa, and those in the Mediter-
ranean, South America, and the East Indies, as well as the
Central- American burning-mountains, I do not hesitate to say,
that to a geologist, and observer of natural phenomena, the
volcano of Colima surpasses them all in interest.

The city of Colima itself is a great curiosity, and reminded
me a little of Blidah " the voluptuous," in Algeria, being
situated in the midst of a dense grove of waving palm-trees.
These almost conceal the one-story adobe houses. The people
are better off than those of other Mexican towns, fewer " leperos "
and beggars being seen among them. The city stands in a fer-
tile valley thirty leagues from Manzanilla, its nearest seaport,
and twenty leagues from the original crater of the volcano. The
superior prosperity of the people is probably owing to their
separation from the rest of the world by deep and almost im-
passable barrancas. This region produces the best coffee raised
in the republic : none of it is exported beyond the city's walls ;
and it commands a price of sixty cents to a dollar a pound.
Wheat, rice, maize, and indigo of very superior quality, are
also produced in the vicinity. The climate is perfect, and the
country rich in metallic deposits. Although twenty leagues
from the crater, Colima is built upon the lower edge of the
extended slope of the mountain, and may be said to be in
daily, hourly, danger of being overwhelmed, — a contingency
that would impart some excitement to its residents, were they
not Mexicans.

Proceeding on horseback towards the cone, we arrived at the
little town of Zapilon, near which several new craters had been
formed, and stopped for the night. After dark the scene was
magnificent. From the old crater at the summit of the moun-
tain, and from two new ones in sight, vast volumes of seething,
hissing crimson matter shot upwards, carrying with them great
stones, which dropped, and burst, apparently, with a tremen-
dous noise ; while streams of liquid lava rolled down the sides
like molten iron from the furnace.

•200 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Mount Colima is a porphyritic mountain, twelve thousand
feet above the sea-level, insulated in an immense plain, and
nearly a perfect cone, with the grand crater at the apex. It
stands alone in its solitude ; and its aspect is barren, terrible,
and threatening. No birds or other living things make their
homes on its adamantine sides ; nor is there a tree, or shrub
even, to be seen.

We did not undertake the ascent of the mountain ; for cer-
tain death would have followed the attempt. Even at Zapilon
we were closer to the crater than was quite prudent ; for the
town was overhung by an enormous avalanche of volcanic mat-
ter, which threatened to overwhelm it at any moment.

From the mountain we went to examine the great barranca,
which may be considered a natural fosse, or military ditch,
separating this stupendous mountain-fortress system from the
rest of Mexico. It is thirteen miles in length, and, from para-
pet to counterscarp, three miles in breadth ; the sides of the
fearful gorge being nearly perpendicular, and three thousand
five hundred feet in length. It is one of the great wonders of
Mexico. This fearful gorge bears evidence that it was torn out
of the solid earth at some remote period by a current of lava
flowing from the main crater of the mountain. There are six
other barrancas intervening between this and the town of
Zapotlan, which is the frontier-town of the neighboring State
of Jalisco. The whole region is subject to earthquake-shocks.
The lava, both old and new, is a reddish-brown basaltic rock
porphyry, very jagged and rough when cooled. The volcano is
seventy miles from that of Jorullo, which suddenly rose from
the earth on the night of Sept. 29, 1759, amid extraordinary
convulsions of Nature ; thousands of acres of valuable land
having been devastated, and a river swallowed up.

This narrow strip, extending from sea to sea, has always been
interesting to the student who is content to study Nature's opera-
tions, instead of striving to invent new theories about them. It

KEEL AND SADDLE. 201

is well known that a connection exists between the volcanoes I
have mentioned and those of the Valley of Mexico, extending
as far east as that of Tuxtla. During the past century, it has
heen noticed, that, when any disturbance takes place in the lat-
ter, a sympathetic movement manifests itself along the whole
chain.

The inhabitants of this region are convinced of this ; and they
even go so far as to predict that the shocks periodically felt all
the way from Vera Cruz to Colima, from east to west, transverse-
ly across the continent, will result some day in a grand cata-
clysm, that will rend the continent asunder, so that the waters
of the Atlantic will mingle with those of the Pacific through
the gap.

Having disposed of a large portion of our cargo of fine silk-
goods at Colima, we sailed up the coast again to San Bias, where,
having made a satisfactory arrangement with the resyuardo, we
landed the rest of our goods. McGregor contracted with an
arriero for mules, and accompanied them to Tepic, where they
were stored temporarily. This course became necessary in con-
sequence of our selling " The Golondrina " to British parties,
who arrived at San Bias at the same time with ourselves.

Australia had been discovered about this time to be a land of
gold ; and thither these parties were bound, having taken the
route through Mexico. The transfer was made at San Jose,
in Lower California ; and, returning thence, I rejoined my
partner at Tepic. It was now the last of October ; and we
decided to carry our goods to the great annual fair, held in
November at the town of San Juan de los Lagos, which is
resorted to by the whole mercantile community of the republic,
and is the chief indigo mart of the country. We had still on
hand an attractive invoice, chiefly of Chinese goods, which were
scarce and high at that time, although a drug in San Francisco ;
and the great fair presented a chance for high prices not to be
missed.

202 KEEL AND SADDLE.

A long train of heavily-laden mules accordingly issued early
one morning from the city of Tepic ; and in its rear might be
seen a score or more of well-armed Americans and Europeans,
amongst whom, mounted on prancing and curvetting steeds,
gayly caparisoned in Mexican fashion, rode Sandy McGregor
and the reader's humble servant. Passing through Istlan,
Madalena, and Plan de Barrancas, we arrived on the second
day at Guadalajara. From this gay city, the second in impor-
tance of the republic, and capital of the State of Jalisco, my
partner pushed on towards San Juan, while I remained for a few
days to attend to some business. Having finished this, I fol-
lowed him in company with a Prussian gentleman and his
servant. We had arrived in sight of the lofty towers of the
Cathedral of St. John, the loftiest on the American continent,
when in the early morning we suddenly became aware that
farther progress was prevented by a barricade across the road,
made of a cart and some other obstructions. We were, then,
in presence of the much-talked-of salteadores (foot-pads), who
infest the roads to intercept those bound to the fair, and make
them pay tribute.

The Prussian was an old cavalry soldier ; and drawing his
sabre, and shouting a Spanish ejaculation I dare not repeat, he
spurred his horse toward the obstacle in front ; and I had no
option but to follow him. We easily leaped the tongue of the
cart, and were in safety on the other side of the barrier ; but,
in our ardor, we had forgotten our valet, who followed us with
our valises on a sumpter mule, and who was immediately seized
by the robbers. They soon " went through " our luggage ;
but finding little of value, as our money was secured on our
persons, they shouted to us that they intended to kill our mozo
unless a handsome ransom were instantly forthcoming. After
a long palaver with the rascals, — who, no doubt, were rancheros
of the neighborhood, — they were appeased by the payment
of a considerable sum; and poor Eusebio was permitted to
join us.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 203

We found San Juan crowded to repletion ; while the sur-
rounding hillsides were covered with tents and jacals (huts
made of matting and small sticks), and seemed a populous
suburb. With characteristic foresight, my partner had con-
structed a temporary lodging of this kind, in which our goods
were stored; and, in addition, he had found room enough to
shelter the family of the keeper of the meson (Mexican tavern),
who had turned out of their house to accommodate lodgers.

This was a respectable and honest family ; and, as they
became interesting in connection with subsequent events, I
may be pardoned for naming them particularly. They were
Nicolas Herrera, his wife Francisca, their son Martin, and
their niece Catalina Vargas.

The morning after my arrival I walked forth to see the fair,
and was well repaid for the trouble. A vast amount of rich
goods from every part of the world was attractively displayed ;
and there was a complete museum of Mexican manufactures,
amongst which I admired most the magnificent saddlery.
Trade seemed very lively ; and McGregor informed me that
the fair would eclipse any of its predecessors for several years,
and that the population of San Juan, ordinarily but five thou-
sand, was augmented to near two hundred thousand. As the
mercantile transactions were exclusively carried on by my
partner, I had little to do save to amuse myself with the novel
sights of the great fair, of which I wearied in about a week;
and, to pass the time, cultivated the society of the Herreras.
One da}r, when sitting smoking with the head of the family,
his hostler, an idiot named Pancho, passed by ; and I made
some inquiries concerning him. He informed me, that, some
twenty years before, a poor family from the State of Guerrero
had received his hospitality at the meson ; and, on the morning
after their departure, an infant was discovered lying upon the
litter of the stable, in which their beasts had been kept. The
wayfarers were of a despised race, the pintos, or spotted

204 KEEL AND SADDLE.

people of that State, who somewhat resemble the lepers of
old, or the pariahs of the East. In Christian charity, the
worthy couple had the child baptized ; and Dona Francisca
gave him her name on the occasion. (Pancho is the nickname
of Francisco.) The infant was put to nurse, and, when old
enough, ran about the great court of the meson amongst the
arrieros and their mules until he was of sufficient stature and
strength to work, when he became a useful servant in the inn.
He was a robust youth, with a rough shock of reddish hair,
dull, stupid face, and lack-lustre eyes, the frightfully mottled
skin of his race, a rounded back, and shambling gait. Pass-
ing for an idiot, he only answered questions by awkward ges-
tures ; but could imperfectly articulate a few words when he
chose to do so. He seemed to be affected by neither kindness
nor harshness, and nearly insensible to both.

After a week or two, I observed that there was one object
in the world that had made some impression on his obtuse
intellect. This was the niece Catalina, or Chapita as she was
usually called, an orphan, who had been adopted by the Iler-
reras as their daughter. Whenever she approached, Pancho,
involuntarily as it seemed, expressed the pleasure he felt in
seeing her by pantomimic gestures. Chapita, who was very
beautiful, fascinated others besides the poor stable-boy ; but
the admiration of those was deepened by a sentiment of respect
for her discretion ; and I once heard one of her countrymen,
accustomed to think lightly of female virtue, say of her, in his
figurative language, " that she sowed at every step seeds of
love which were destined never to germinate." Martin, the
son of the house, had arrived to attend the fair fronl the
presidio of Altar in Sonora, where he owned a large estate
which his father had given him.

The young hacepdado, a tall, slender youth of fine personal
appearance, set off by his handsome national dress, was an
accomplished cavalier, and an adept in the exercises of the
campo and the mesta.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 205

I could not help musing on the miserable destiny of poor
Pancho whenever I saw him pass, bereft as he was of every
tiling that solaces the lives of other men on life's journey.
Poor devil ! what had he to hope or live for ? He existed
merely by that instinct of self-preservation with which Prov-
i lence has endowed animals, and even the vegetable king-
dom ; and yet in the breast of this wretched idiot a warm
and delightful passion had grown up, which cast a vivid light
over his vacant intellect and hopeless life.

The fair of San Juan drew to a close ; the extempore habi-
tations vanished from its suburbs ; the busy crowd dissolved ;
and the roads were filled with travellers returning to their
several homes, leaving the little town to its usual stagnation.
We had disposed satisfactorily of our merchandise, and shared
the profits ; and as McGregor was desirous of visiting the
mining country near the city of Chihuahua, in which he had
important interests, I resolved to accompany him.

It would take too much space to give in detail the story of
our journey northwards : so I will merely say that our route
was by the way of Parras and Mapimi. The season was
propitious ; and our road lay through grand and striking
scenery, but for a part of the way was infested by hostile
Indians, for whom we were compelled to keep a sharp look-
out.

At length, after twenty days of dust, heat, and drought,
as many nights among fleas and other vermin ; after many
weary leagues ridden with our hands literally upon our
weapons, and eyes weary with watching ; after traversing moun-
tain-passes, fit ambuscades for lurking savages, and lined with
crosses, which indicated the fate of unfortunate travellers ;
after starving for hours, and arriving at haciendas only to find
them deserted, — we at last came in sight of the steeples of
the Cathedral of Chihuahua.

18

XXVI.

Bolson de Mapimi, and that part of the State of
_I_ Coahuila which contains the abandoned mines of Santa
Rosa, constitute what is probably the richest silver-mining
region in the whole world. All the mines of this section of
country have been worked for many years, and immense
treasures have been taken from them : still it remains almost
a terra incognita. This is because the whole district is over-
run by the Apaches. The mines are either altogether aban-
doned, or are worked only spasmodically by companies with
insufficient capital to organize mining on a scale large enough
to insure a certain return for their investment within a
reasonable time.

But it will be asked, " Why does not the required capital flow
in this direction ? " I answer, that I have heard every reason
except the true one given among these people, who do not
like to hear unpalatable truths any more than others. The
true reason is, that the political condition of the nation is so
bad, that no confidence can be felt in the security of an in-
vestment in any one thing in this country ; and until another
and stronger race controls the government, and gives protec-
tion to capital, and encouragement to enterprise, the riches of
the country will remain undeveloped. The miserable popula-
tion of this district dig out silver omy for their present wants,
or to supply that craving after fortune which appears to enter
into the nature of every Mexican. They take enough silver
206

KEEL AND SADDLE. 207

out of Nature's strong box to serve for a few nights' gaming ;
and, when that is lost, return to get a little more.

Our first call upon the argentiferous deposits was made
at Santa Eulalia, about thirteen miles from Chihuahua, which
are the creme de la creme of all the mines of this richest dis-
trict in Mexico, the very mountains being of silver. The
haciendas of San Jose", Santa Rita, and La Parcionera, near
the Real of Santa Eulalia, are worked in the rudest manner.
Only the soft clay " pockets " of the galleries of these mines
are worked, as the miners can scoop out the rich ore with —
tell it not at the Ecole des Mines or at Freyburg — horn-
spoons ; and the limestone, which is not difficult of reduction,
will yield from forty to a hundred and fifty dollars per ton.
The deeper workings prove that the richest ores have not yet
been reached. In the presence of all this great wealth, need-
ing intelligence and capital to bring it to the surface, the
native population are wretchedly impoverished, and merely
idle away the time between the cradle and the grave, craving
nothing but their bare sustenance, and occasional means of
diversion of the most pitiful sort.

The prudent capitalists, even those reared in the country,
never dream of investing their funds in mining operations,
for the reasons I have just stated ; and having visited the
region, and examined its resources, I felt less inclined than ever
before to enter into a speculation requiring, to protect explora-
tions, many millions of associated capital, and a stable form
of government such as is not to be had in Mexico.

While in this wild region, I halted for a day at a solitary
hacienda, which, indeed, was like all of them, — a kind of walled
and fortified dwelling, — to wait for my companion, who had
gone to a mine not far off. The intendente ("land steward")
of this place informed me that in a laguna not far away were
plenty of wild ducks and geese ; and I resolved to try to make
a bag of some of them.

208 KEEL AND SADDLE.

He said it was well ; but that I must keep a sharp look-out
for Indians, whose war-parties sometimes raided in that part
of the country. I had heard so much talk of Indians since
leaving San Juan, that I had become quite incredulous about
them : so I strolled forth afoot with my gun, and soon reached
the laguna. While poking about in the rushes to get a shot
at some ducks, I observed in the soft mud the hoof-marks of
horses, ridden by somebody, as was evident by the order in
which they followed each other in two parallel lines. I hap-
pened to know that the horses of the hacienda were in
another direction, guarded in a valley ; and, calling to mind
the warning of the old intendente, I concluded not to awake
the echoes just then with my gun, but to beat a hasty retreat.

It was two or three miles to the hacienda, over an arid
plain, dotted here and there with clumps of chaparral ; and,
luckily for me, the soil was what is called in Mexico a pedral,
covered with stones as hard as flint, and leaving no trail from
horse or man. A smart walk brought me about a mile from
where I had seen the hoof-rnarks; and although I kept on,
la barbe sur Vepaule, I was congratulating myself that I
should soon reach a place of security, when I heard in my
rear the sound of hoofs echoing from the flinty ground.
Instantly, regardless of scratches, I took cover in a thick
clump of bushes ; having previously slipped a buckshot car-
tridge into each barrel of my gun, cocked it, and silently
awaited events. Scarcely had I settled myself in my fortress
when the leader of an Apache war-party came in sight.*
Having no mercy to hope for if found, I covered him and
each succeeding warrior in succession as they passed in per-
fect silence, the ground hardly reporting the tread of their
unshodden horses. Each brave rode a travelling palfrey,
and led in a leash by his side his gayly-bedecked war-horse.
All were perfectly naked except the breech-clout, but pro-
fusely painted in the Devil's colors, — red and black. They

KEEL AND SADDLE. 209

were armed alike with lances, the blades of which had once
been Toledo swords, decorated with feathers like the round
shields they bore, and bows and arrows. They sat straight
and motionless on their horses, like spectres ; the only evidence
of animation in them being their incessantly rolling eye-balls,
which keenly examined every object along their route. I
held my breath as the ghost-like band passed me within their
spear's length in Indian file ; and, though they numbered only
eleven warriors, it seemed to me as if an army was going by.

All the stories about the unerring sagacity of these savages
came at once into my mind; and I distinctly recollect how I
was disturbed by a solitary vulture that hovered above me>
from whose movements I feared some of the rascals would be
led to suspect my presence. So fixed was my attention, that
I could afterwards have told every minute peculiarity that dis-
tinguished one individual of this war-party from another : and
I could swear that the foremost Indian wore a single eagle's
feather in his scalp-lock, while each of the rest had three ;
why, I know not.

I also know that the war-horse of the last youthful brave
was an elegant and graceful pinto, the possession of which I
coveted as soon as I saw him.

I was in no hurry- to resume my route after the Indians
had passed ; nor did I relax my vigilance until I had arrived
at the gates of the hacienda, which were immediately closed
after I had made my report, and all the garrison — six men
and nine women with four babies — enclosed in the patio.
The old intendente addressed himself immediately to his de-
fences : but the mysterious war-party never appeared ; and, as
they came like shadows, so they departed.

The next day the vaqueros found the remains of a bullock,
on which the savages had supped, a league or two off; and
we heard that a man had been killed, some houses robbed, and
a woman carried off from a hacienda, about thirty miles from

18*

210 KEEL AND SADDLE.

our refuge, by a party answering in description to the one I
had seen.

This is one of the beauties of life in these northern districts
for which I have little admiration ; and these raids of the
Apaches affect property to such a degree, that the extensive
and fertile grazing estate of which I have spoken could have
been purchased for less than a quarter part of the value of the
horses and cattle roaming over the eight sitios de gana do
mayor (square leagues, or about thirty thousand acres).

These war-parties, I was told, are undertaken for plunder,
murder, rape, and sometimes abduction, in pursuance of a vow,
or in performance of a penance imposed by their chief.

While on a war-party, the warriors must eat but one meal a
day, and are allowed but four hours of sleep in the twenty-
four. They are not permitted to converse with each other, and
are obliged to perform certain diabolical rites. They must im-
plicitly obey the orders of the warrior designated to command
them, who may put them to death if he pleases. As is well
known, their incursions are carried far into Mexico, spreading
terror everywhere ; for they are conducted with remorseless
cruelty. I had now seen one of these famous war-parties, but
had no desire to repeat the sight ; although I drew an instruc-
tive conclusion from this, as from all other of the experiences of
life, — that the Apaches and other wild Indians were in the
possession and practice of some sound military principles, not
confined, as I had fondly imagined, to civilized society, and
as old as those Greeks and Romans of whose existence they
had never heard.

At Chihuahua, McGregor and myself separated, — he to
return to the United States by the way of Texas, while I took
the road to San Juan de los Lagos. I parted from him with
regret, and the hope of again seeing him : for our connection
had been a pleasant one ; and through all its vicissitudes I had
ever found him honest and loyal, while his business tact and

KEEL AND SADDLE. 211

natural talents had successfully carried us through difficulties
that might otherwise have occasioned failure. In our jour-
neys by land, the place of leader had always been conceded
to him, experienced as he was in frontier-life ; and I may say,
that, more than once, the lives and fortunes of his associates
were saved by his cool courage and unerring judgment. My
wish to meet again was never realized ; for, two years after
our separation, he met his death at the hand of an assassin
in New Mexico.

I shrink from recording the details of his murder ; for it was
perpetrated in a cowardly manner by one who would never
have dared to meet him face to face, and the miscreant went
scathless from the scene. It was one of those crimes that go
unwhipt of justice in frontier society, to its eternal disgrace.

My first halt was at the city of Durango, where I staid a
shprt time, awaiting a party, who, like myself, were bound
southward. In the sierra, not far from this city, lives a singu-
lar Indian community, who still reject the teachings of Chris-
tianity, adhering to the paganism of their barbarous ancestors.
They hold themselves proudly aloof from familiar social inter-
course and intermarriage, not only with those of Spanish or
mixed descent, but also with those of their own race who have
adopted the religion and manners of their conquerors, and who
constitute the bulk of the Mexican proletarians. These inde-
pendent communities are found in other parts of Mexico, and
are similar in customs and manners. Representatives of them
may sometimes be seen in the streets of the towns, distinguished
by their long plaited hair, and the Aztec features seen in the
statuary and sculpture of that ancient people. They make
baskets and other articles for sale, and are noted for the manu-
facture of a very superior kind of gayly striped woollen blankets,
so finely woven that they hold water. In the secluded village
of which I have spoken, I saw an exhibition of natural magic
which would have been a creditable performance at any seance

212 KEEL AND SADDLE.

of the most celebrated clairvoyants, or spiritists, of our high
civilization. Spirits were summoned from the vasty deep ; and,
unlike Hotspur's, they came, communed orally with us, and
did other tricks identical with those practised by the charla-
tans of our own spiritual circles. At one of these seances,
held in a mud hovel, the spirit of an aged chief communicated
to the assembly some facts about my life, of which I am cer-
tain no person present could have been aware, and gave other
proofs of supernatural power, which must have convinced me,
had I not previously possessed convictions that could not be
shaken.

Returning to Durango, I related what I had seen to an
intelligent countryman settled there as a physician. He
replied that the Indians of the sierra were commonly believed
by the people of the country to be not only idolaters, but
sorcerers ; and he related the following tale by way of illus-
tration : —

XXVII.

OME years since, in one of those revolutions which
so often disturb this unhappy country, shortly after
my arrival here, this city was occupied by a general of
some notoriety, whose wars had been only of a partisan and
predatory character. He was of a cruel and vindictive dis-
position, like most of his type, and tyrannical over all who
fell under his power. For some fancied peccadillo, this person
imprisoned a small party of the Sierra Indians who came into
the town on a bartering expedition, among whom were a
chief and his daughter. This chief was of the sacerdotal
caste, who are believed to possess supernatural gifts ; and the
daughter was a girl of remarkable intelligence and beauty.

"Don Alvaro Lopez, although an old man, had grown gray
in a career of war and rapine, which he had begun as a
soldier during the war of revolution which separated Mexico
from Spain ; and since, when there was a lack of employ-
ment in an organized force, had been a brigand. He was
licentious too ; and, seeing the beauty of the girl, resolved to
possess her; but, in accomplishing his wicked purpose, slew
the aged chief, her father. A successful rival soon after
supplanted Lopez, who was driven from the city, escaping
with a small band of his followers, who not long after deserted
him.

" His successor, no longer fearing him, knowing that he had
lost his power and influence, and feeling himself secure from

213

214 KEEL AND SADDLE.

further interference, permitted Lopez to return to his home in
this city, and reside under surveillance. Shortly after, Don
Alvaro fell sick; and I was summoned to attend him.

"Meanwhile the girl — Bartola as she was called, though
that was not her real name — remained in Durango, as she
had no other refuge ; for her kinsfolk would have destroyed
her, despoiled of her chastity. She was absorbed in grief for
the death of her father, and her own misfortunes, and lived
upon the charity of those who pitied her sorrows; such hap-
pily being always found among us. She occupied a poorjacal
in the suburbs, and appeared to have no other occupation than
to brood over her misery.

" She would occasionally meet Don Alvaro in the city, and
at such times would be heard to mutter some sounds in her dia-
lect that seemed like denunciations, as she bent fierce glances
upon him from under her tattered reboso. As to my patient,
his case baffled my skill, and defied my remedies. His dis-
order appeared to be of a nervous character, accompanied with
chills of a peculiar kind. Having been summoned to a
neighboring hacienda to attend another patient, I was absent
for several weeks ; and, when I returned, I found Don Alvaro
looking ten years older than when I had seen him last, wan,
and with that peculiarly ashen-gray hue of feature which
denotes mortal sickness ; although his physical strength
nominally herculean, was not much impaired.

" ' It seems to me, doctor,' said he, ' that, when my parox-
ysms come on, I am seized with emotions of fear and tre-
mors, which I confess I never before in my life experienced.
I cannot say there is any reason for this sentiment, that I am
aware of; but, on these occasions, another personality appears
to have usurped my own, and I am no longer myself. I
suffer without apparent cause : my faculties are on the
stretch ; but I cannot perceive any tangible thing to combat.
Then come sharp pains, each distinct from the other, repeated

KEEL AND SADDLE. 215

successively as if by a sharp weapon. These seem to pierce
my heart and the very marrow of my hones with sudden
pricks or pangs, accompanied by a benumbing sensation, and
then gradually subside, leaving me in a state of extreme
weakness. By a presentiment I cannot describe to you, I can
tell the approach of these attacks, which soon arrive, and I
become aware of a persisting, implacable assault, as it were,
upon my person : my reason gives way ; and I fall a prey to
terror and apprehension. " I am sure some one hates me, and
is persecuting me by virtue of some evil influence, against
which I am powerless to defend myself. Ah, doctor,' cried
the unhappy man just then, ' it is coming ! Great God! what
do I suffer ! '

"Thfe poor devil at this juncture writhed horribly in a
fearful nervous paroxysm, which I tried in vain to assuage.

" ' General,' said I after the crisis had passed, ' know you
of any bitter enemy who has reason to persecute you ; any
one whom you may have injured, and who may wish for
revenge; any one you have slain? '

" ' Oh ! ' returned Don Alvaro, ' " los muertos son muy muer-
tos " ' (" The dead are dead indeed "). 'No : the dead do not
torment me. My enemy lives; and she will kill me yet. It is
that Indian girl whose father I killed : I see her at the very
moment I suffer, — see her distinctly, with her clinched fist
extended toward me, while she stands in an attitude and with
a gesture of hatred, directing at my very heart the unseen
arrows of her vengeance.'

"After some further conversation, I rose and left the
house. The case is unique in my practice ; which, however,
does not prove that such cases do not sometimes exist, and
are caused, perhaps, by electric or magnetic influences directed
against the patient. But I am stoutly opposed to empiri-
cism ; and the whole case is enveloped in such deep mystery,
that I forbear giving a positive opinion, from — I shame not

216 KEEL AND SADDLE.

to say it — sheer ignorance as to whether the patient was
afflicted by remorse for his crimes, or the determined hatred
of some enemy. I can give no explanation ; but relate the
facts of the case, leaving you to draw your own inferences.

"After leaving the house of Don Alvaro, I walked mus-
ingly towards the suburbs, and unwittingly took the direction
of Bartola's lowly abode. Approaching it, I saw a light
burning in the hovel; and, it being dark, my presence was
undiscovered. I resolved to ascertain what I could from the
girl herself, and whether there was any ground for believing
that the annoyance proceeded from her, as asserted by Don
Alvaro. I went to the one window, and looked in. Bartola
was on her knees before a rude stool, the only piece of furni-
ture besides the pallet which the hut contained; propped
upon which was a rough statuette of clay a few inches long,
in the lineaments of which might be traced a grotesque
resemblance to the marked features of Don Alvaro Lopez.
Had I any doubt as to the actual existence of this resem-
blance, it would have been dispelled by the poor imitation of
a uniform that clothed the figure, bearing the insignia of the
general's rank. In the region of the heart of the statuette a
long needle was fixed. Bartola was so intent upon what she
was doing, that she did not see or hear me, and sat Indian-
fashion on her heels, naked but for her petticoat and the
reboso around her head, her hair dishevelled, and her features
pinched and haggard ; while the perspiration rolled in drops
from her face and shoulders.

"She rocked herself to and fro," with eyes steadily fixed
upon the figure; never once withdrawing them while repeat-
ing some inarticulate syllables in a low tone, marvellously
like an incantation. Sometimes she raised herself erect, and
retreated a step or two ; then darted towards the figure,
regarding it with an intense gaze, and sometimes menacing it
with outstretched arm and clinched hand. At last she seized

KEEL AND SADDLE. 217

the needle, and stabbed the image : at the same moment her
limbs seemed to stiffen, and she fell backwards, with a long-
drawn sigh, upon the floor.

" There was something terrible in the scene ; and I felt rooted
to the spot. As she fell, I recovered my equanimity ; and,
pushing against the door of the miserable dwelling, it
yielded, and I entered its only room. I raised the prostrate
form of the girl, who was too exhausted to resist, and placed
her upon the poor bed ; applied a restorative to her nostrils ;
and in a few moments she opened her eyes, and gazed at me.

" * Bartola,' said I, 'you know me?' She gave a sign of
recognition. ' You are a sorceress, and practise the black-
art ! You especially direct your evil practices against the life
of Don Alvaro Lopez.' She smiled triumphantly.

" ' I will kill him ! ' said she.

" ' Take care ! ' I said. ' You will have to do with the
laws : you will be imprisoned if you do not stop your evil
practices.'

" ' That will not stop them,' she said proudly. ' Meddle not
with my vengeance, and look to yourself ! '

" ' But, Bartola, you will kill yourself, miserable being that
you are ! '

" She made a gesture of indifference. ' Will you cease your
criminal machinations ? ' — 'No ! ' said Bartola; and resolutely
turned her face to the wall, vouchsafing me not another word.

" Finding her obdurate, I retired, taking with me the clay
figure, which I destroyed. The next morning I visited my
patient, finding him easy for the moment, and related as much
of my interview as was prudent to tell him. ' Ah, doctor ! '
said he, ' I suffered last evening more than ever. It seemed
to me as if I was repeatedly stabbed by that Indian witch.
What infernal power has enabled her to torment me so ? ' I
told him I would do my best to deliver him from her, and pro-
ceeded to the military governor. I stated the case of the old
19

218 KEEL AND SADDLE.

sinner, and received permission to send the Indian girl, upon
a certificate of insanity, to a village twenty leagues from here.
I thought, that, if the fatal influence she exerted was mag-
netic, it would be stopped, or at least weakened, hy her re-
moval to a distance ; and, wishing to act conscientiously
towards both her and my patient, I resolved to try this solu-
tion of the case. Thought I, 'The unfortunate girl is not
absolutely mad ; but she has the fatal belief that she possesses
the power of injuring him ; and it is possible that her hallu-
cination may be dangerous to herself as well as to him.'

" Bartola was accordingly removed, and placed in charge of
a person selected for the purpose ; and for a few days the old
reprobate experienced a sensible relief from his sufferings. In
less than a week, however, the nervous agitation returned, and
wild delirium was exhibited during the paroxysms ; and I was
again called in. At the same time came a messenger from the
person having charge of Bartola, who informed me that the
nervous crises which had ceased with her departure hence had
again set in, the attacks on her part being more energetic,
more decidedly hostile, if I may say so, than before. Never-
theless, I was told, each time they occurred, they left her
much weaker. ' So,' thought I, ' I will immediately see my
patient, and counsel him to resist courageously and with all
his force : perhaps the one who remains physically the stronger
will be the victor. It is a duel a la mort between them.'

" I found the old brigand with a terrified expression of coun-
tenance, and nearly speechless : he beat the air with his hands,
as if trying to parry a mortal thrust; he gasped in agony, and
finally expired before my eyes in less than an hour after I
entered the room.

" I returned home ; and on the next morning the same mes-
senger came from the village with the intelligence that Bar-
tola, too, had passed away, after a prolonged crisis, just half an
Lour, by my computation, after the death of Alvaro Lopez.

KEEL AND SADDLE. 219

" Her last words to those around her were, in Spanish, " Soy
vengado ! " (" I am avenged ! ") It is needless to say to you
that science cannot explain this act of mysterious retribution,
proceeding not from the action of justice, according to our
lights, but which, it is evident, is permitted by the inscrutable
decree of a higher than mortal power."

XXVIII.

IN less than three months from the time of my departure, I
re-entered the little town of San Juan do los Lagos, and
rode directly to the meson kept by the Herreras.

The gate was wide open : a crowd of gayly-attired people oc-
cupied the court; while from within came the tinkling of guitars
and the small Mexican harp. The inn was en fete. Pancho
alone, in his ordinary dress, came forth from the stables with
his usual indifferent manner and shambling gait to take our
horses. " Ah, Pancho ! " said I, " what is going on ? Is it a
wedding?" The idiot grinned, and answered me by a for-
ward butt of his ugly head. "And who are the happy
couple ? Any of the family ? " Second grin, and butt with the
head. " Is it La Chapita ? " Third grin and butt.

This news from the lugubriously jolly mortal puzzled me :
for I could not see why Pancho should smile at the idea of
Chapita's marriage, unless he was to be the bridegroom ; and
that was too absurd an idea to be entertained for an instant.

" Perhaps," I thought, " he rejoices, in his stupid ignorance,
because she whom he loves is about to be made happy ; which,
in a sensible person, would be prodigious self-abnegation in-
deed."

" Tell me, Pancho, who is to be the bridegroom ? " The
half-witted youth answered me by pantomimic gestures simu-
lating a nurse carrying an infant ; then bestrode an imaginary
horse, and twirled round his shock pate an ideal lasso j after

220

KEEL AND SADDLE. 221

which performance he burst into a convulsive fit of merriment,
clinging meanwhile to the cantle of my saddle.

I comprehended at once that Martin, the son of the house,
was the bridegroom ; and dismounted, and retired to my cham-
ber. A little later I went to the apartments of the innkeep-
er's family, paid my respects to the affianced pair, and received
an invitation to attend the wedding festivities. Tio Nicolas
and Tia Francisco were supremely happy at the prospect of the
match between their niece and son.

The lovely maid of the inn was radiant in her bridal dress,
bestowing tender glances upon Martin Herrera, whose slender
and graceful form was displayed to great advantage in his
brand-new costume of a haciendado, gorgeous with sky-blue
velvet facings, rich embroidery, and dangling silver buttons.

I will spare the reader an account of the excellence of the
cookery in Mexican fashion, the jests, double entendres, songs,
and other details of the somewhat gross gayety of the fete.
Every thing went "merry as a marriage-bell," the jollity
of the occasion ascending in crescendo until the end of the
feast drew near. But at the very moment when Tio Nicolas
began to cut the bridal cake, announcing its conclusion, the
beautiful head of the bride dropped upon the table ; her arms
fell inertly to her side ; and in an instant she was in a profound
and deathlike sleep. This was the signal for a reproduction
of the preceding pleasantries, mingled with " Bravi " and clap-
ping of hands from the guests.

Singular circumstance ! All the noise did not awaken the
bride from her trance! Her mother and several matrons
of the company surrounded the fair somnambula, patted her
hands, put vinegar and burnt feathers under her nostrils, inun-
dated her with cold water, and used other restoratives ; but
still she slept.

Nature appeared to exert herself to resist some soporific
influence, and to throw it off; for there was an occasional

19*

222 KEEL AND SADDLE.

nervous tremor: but she again relapsed into sleep. These
symptoms of reviving became fainter ; and the bride was car-
ried off to bed.

The wedding-feast thus interrupted, the tables were finally
abandoned ; and the guests departed from the meson, in which
silence now reigned in place of the recent joy and merriment.

The bridegroom staid near the bride as long as the least
hope of returning consciousness remained ; but, when she was
carried off by the women, I saw him wipe away a tear : then
his face assumed a suspicious and wrathful aspect, and he
issued forth into the patio.

Following and meeting him there, he politely asked me if
I sought any one ; and, when I said that I was looking for
Pancho, he rejoined, " I also seek him," and disappeared in
the direction of the stables. We could not find Pancho, and
re-entered the inn. It was a gloomy night at the meson of
San Juan. The unaccountable sleep of the fair maid con-
tinued in spite of all the restoratives lavished on her by tender-
ness, aided by excellent medical skill.

At the break of day her respiration stopped, the heart ceased
to beat, and lamentations filled the house. The fair bride was
dead ! I attended the funeral after a few days, during which
I endeavored ineffectually to console poor Martin Herrera,
whose deep grief was manifested only by a moody silence.

Pancho had disappeared ; and I could not help secretly
connecting his absence with the tragedy, but just in what
'manner I could not understand. On the evening after the
obsequies, the mystery was partially explained. The corpse
of La Chapita had been disinterred, and lay near the empty
grave from which it had been sacrilegiously digged in the
cemetery ; while at a distance of fifty feet near the wall was
found the dead body of the idiot Pancho, the skull cloven by
a pick-axe which lay near it.

The gossips all hastened to the cemetery aa the news

KEEL AND SADDLE. 223

spread ; and my informant wished to enlarge upon the hideous
details : but, cutting short her ghastly story, I bade my attend-
ants prepare to leave the town, as I had already finished my
business, and merely hastened my journey. We mounted,
starting from the meson at a gallop ; and in less than two
hours lost sight of the sky-kissing towers of San Juan.

The tragedy enacted in the little town made quite a noise
in the country for a time, until something else as startling
happened. Every one had his theory of the incidents of the
catastrophe, and vigorously defended it. The prefect of the
department, aroused to action, and the alcalde of San Juan,
with other hombres buenos, bothered their brains for several
months about the mystery, without arriving at any reasonable
solution. At last it was given up as insoluble, and denounced
in Mexican fashion as a contrivance of the Devil, and decreed
in the book of fate.

From Guanajuato I set out for the city of Mexico. Arriving
without any noteworthy experience, I alighted at the Hotel de
Iturbide, the proprietor of which, at that time, was Don Anselmo
Zurntuza, a large capitalist and well-known citizen, and a
gentleman to whose memory I desire to pay my little tribute
of respect.

Hon. Robert F. Letcher filled the post of American minis-
ter at that time in Mexico ; and to him I was indebted for an
introduction to the society of the capital, in which he was much
respected and beloved. After having passed several years among
rude and uncultivated persons thrown accidentally together, or
with people of primitive simplicity, with an occasional alter-
nated taste of barbarism, the change to a refined social circle,
in which were many persons of education and accomplishments,
was most agreeable ; and I enjoyed it to the fullest extent.

Thanks to Mr. Letcher, I soon became acquainted with the
president of the republic as well as other official persons.
Don Mariano Arista, at that time incumbent of the presideu-

224 KEEL AND SADDLE.

tial chair, is well known as a general and civil functionary, and
distinguished for the mild forbearance of his rule, — a trait
insufficiently appreciated among his countrymen. In person
he was tall and well-formed, with good and regular features ;
and, in hair and complexion, what Mexicans call a guero
(blonde).

The late war with the United States had almost utterly
disorganized the Mexican army, and the artillery especially
had suffered from neglect. The president, aware of these
deficiencies, was endeavoring to re-establish the national forces
on an improved basis, in which enterprise he pursued a liberal
policy. He had set his heart upon organizing the artillery,
and placing it in a state of efficiency never before known in
Mexico ; having constantly in mind the splendid field-batteries
of the United States, which had contributed so much to our
success in the war.

From consultations on this subject with the president (who
sometimes asked my advice) grew an offer from him of a mili-
tary position in the Mexican army, which I accepted ; and I
became a member of his staff, with the rank of lieutenant-
colonel. I was immediately charged with the work of organ-
izing and drilling four light batteries ; giving, at the same
time, instruction to a class of officers twice a week in pyro-
techny, dynamics, and the science of projectiles, illustrated by
target-practice, and work in the laboratory.

My duties were rendered the more agreeable by the fact
that all my orders and instructions came directly from the
president as commander-in-chief. When disengaged, I was
expected to take my turn of duty with other staff-officers at
the national palace ; which was an agreeable relaxation from
more onerous labors, and carried with it the advantage of
free quarters and personal attendance upon my genial chief on
public and private occasions. My horses and servants were
also provided for at the public expense ; and I had the satis-

KEEL AND SADDLE. 225

faction of soon acquiring the confidence of the first man in
the republic.

In February, 1852, the whole of the plana mayor (general
staff) received orders to accompany the president on a journey ;
upon which we started at the appointed time, and, after a brief
stay at Queretaro, proceeded to Guanajuato.

In this great mining city we remained about a week, the
president being much occupied in inspecting the principal
mint of the nation ; and I improved the opportunity to
examine the great mines and haciendas of this famous district.
On the Sunday before leaving Guanajuato, I accompanied my
chief to high mass in the cathedral with the rest of the staff,
and, during the service, recognized among the ecclesiastics
who officiated at the altar a well-remembered face. It was
that of Father Ipolito, who filled the cure of San Juan de los
Lagos. This venerable and excellent man was a Frenchman
of high character and learning, who had once exercised the
sacred ministry in the United States, and was universally re-
spected by all who knew him in both countries. After the
service was over, I accompanied the suite to the door of the
church; then returned, and entered the sacristy. Father Ipoli-
to received me with much apparent pleasure, and immediately
acceded to my request for an interview vuth him that even-
ing, making an appointment which we were both exact in
keeping.

XXIX.

SINCE the affair of the meson of San Juan, my thoughts
perpetually recurred to the sad events which had partly
induced me to leave that town on the morning of the dis-
covery of the bodies of Chapita and the idiot Pancho in the
cemetery.

The faces of the actors in the tragedy frequently came
before my mind's eye ; and I felt that my uneasiness could
not be removed until the mysterious veil, that hid either a
horrible crime or a fearful misfortune, was drawn aside.

One evening, how or a propos of what I do not remember,
an idea flashed into my mind, and a train of circumstances
that led to a tragical end stretched out like a path of light
before me. The vial of Lethe ! On my last trip to San Fran-
cisco in " The Golondrina," the fatigue and anxiety had affected
my nervous system so materially, that I could not sleep ; and,
after tossing all night on a feverish bed, I went through the
days in an unquiet, somnolent, and absent frame of mind,
which not only unfitted me for business, but which exhausted
my mental and bodily forces.

I had consulted several medical men, and tried their reme-
dies without avail, when I accidentally met an old acquaint-
ance, a veteran sea-captain whom I had last seen in the East
Indies. He was a Dutchman, and, when I knew him, com-
manded an Indiatnan trading between Holland and Java.
Like most of his calling, this old man had been forced to act

226

KEEL AND SADDLE. 227

sometimes in the capacity of a physician ; and he had qualified
himself in no mean degree for such service. He had, indeed,
quite a taste for medical practice, and carried with him an in-
finite store of odd recipes and sovereign cures for all the ills
"that flesh is heir to," together with the Bunsby-like propensity
for giving advice to all who needed it. Learning of my in-
ability to sleep, and the attendant symptoms of my case, this
" ancient mariner " had prescribed, as a sure panacea for my
relief, what I afterwards called the " vial of Lethe."

It was a small cube of crystal, closed with a ground-glass
stopper; its sides inscribed with gilt Eastern characters, and
containing about a dozen pastilles of a pasty, chocolate-colored
substance, each enveloped in gold-leaf. The composition of
the medicine I never knew ; but it was probably a prepa-
ration of Indian hemp and opium, as he told me he had
obtained the drug, with other articles of great value, from a
Javanese prince, for whom he had performed some important
service. The captain accompanied his gift with serious and
positive instructions, warning me against violating them ; as,
he said, the vial contained sufficient medicine to make one
sleep for a hundred years. I had only to take a very small
particle of one of these pastilles on the point of a needle, dis-
solve it in a glass of eau sucree, and drink it on retiring at
night.

I found it an efficient remedy. An hour or so after its ad-
ministration, total forge tfulness of all mundane things, perfect
repose of body and mind, ensued, and calm, refreshing, and
strengthening sleep succeeded, lasting all night; after which I
arose completely restored. After being cured of my first
attack by the use of this specific, I kept the vial constantly
at hand; and this it was that I drew from my pocket at the
instant when — like a vision — the revelation I spoke of came
into my head. I then recalled to mind that one night shortly
after I had arrived at San Juan, feeling ill at ease, I had

•ft
KEEL AND SADDLE.

ordered Pancho to bring sugar and water for my dose ; and,
much to his wonder and amazement, prepared, in his presence,
the draught.

With rude pantomime and uncouth sounds the idiot endeav-
ored to inquire why I had thus medicated the water I was
about to drink. I told him that I could not sleep ; and that,
after I had drank the potion, sleep would come. Pancho then
asked what quantity of the drug was necessary to produce the
desired result, handled the vial curiously, and shaking his
head, as if it was something entirely beyond the range of his
comprehension, left me to slumber.

I gave this incident no further thought at the time, but
went out in haste the next morning, leaving the vial near my
bedside, where I found it apparently untouched at my return.

It was the remembrance of this circumstance that made my
heart beat as the questions of the idiot came into my mind.

I examined the vial closely, counted the pastilles, estimated
those I had consumed, and was convinced that one of them
had been abstracted. I meditated long on the circumstances
of the complicated drama. I considered the characters of its
personages, the revelation of Tio Nicolas regarding the birth
of the idiot boy, the ill-concealed violence of his passion for
Chapita, the anxiety of Martin Herrera at the nuptial feast,
and the subsequent fate of the bride.

Pancho ! I was convinced that the " vial of Lethe " was, in
some way, the agent of the catastrophe ; but I could advance
no farther towards a full solution of the mystery. Making a
full statement of all the facts in my possession to Father
Ipolito, I concluded by asking his advice, saying that it would
ease my mind to hear his opinion of the matter.

The good father reflected profoundly for a few minutes, and
then asked me if I remembered Dario.

This Dario was an Indian of the Maricopa tribe, a captive
whq had been brought to San Juan, and had become a convert

KEEL AND SADDLE, 229

to Christianity; after which conversion he had been taught to
assist in the services of the church, and had charge of the
cemetery, performing his duties with exemplary patience and
punctuality, although somewhat in years.

I instantly understood then, by the question of the reverend
priest, that Dario knew more than he, at first, wished to reveal;
for he had been examined at the judicial investigation of the
deaths, though nothing could be drawn from him except vague
and insignificant replies to the questions asked. It was with
a feeling of relief that I heard the question of the excellent
ecclesiastic; and, having answered in the affirmative, Father
Ipolito entered upon the following narrative : —

" It is my sacred duty as well as pleasure, my son, to do all
I can to alleviate the troubles common to suffering humanity ;
and it is a happy reflection that I can do so in your case with-
out violating confidences which have come to my knowledge
under the seal of confession. Six months after the discovery
of the bodies in the cemetery, — of which incident you are
aware, — I learned that Dario possessed a painful secret.
At last he came to me for advice. He said he had not
told the judges all he knew, because of his belief that all
idiots were the natural and favored children of the Supreme
Being. I remembered the superstitious respect of all savage
tribes for those who are either wholly or partially deprived of
reason. It was evident that Dario had not yet entirely di-
vested himself of his old pagan notions ; but, waiving this
morsel of heterodoxy, I encouraged him to proceed.

" He then told me, that, on the evening of the interment, he
was in his hut in the cemetery, on his knees before the cross,
and offering up a simple prayer for the soul of the defunct,
when he heard sounds, and looked forth into the cemetery.

"It was late at night ; and, by the light of the moon, he saw
a man enter the burial-ground, approach the new-made grave
and kneel upon it, kissing the earth as if it had really been

20

230 KEEL AND SADDLE.

his mother. Dario crept silently from the hut ; and, conceal-
ing himself behind a tomb, recognized in the intruder the
idiot Pancho, who had brought a shovel and pick-axe with him,
and began industriously to throw up the earth that covered
the coffin.

" He worked vigorously, and soon disclosed the coffin, which
he broke open. Dario did not interfere with his labors ; for,
soon after Pancho had begun his work, he became aware that
there was another witness of the disiuterment.

"This was Martin Herrera, who had cautiously followed
Pancho, and stood watching him in the perpetration of his
sacrilege ; but, when the work was done, he rushed upon Pan-
cho, crying out ' Sacrilege ! '

" The terrified idiot fled towards the wall of the cemetery,
Martin pursuing him, armed with the pick-axe.

" Pancho tried to climb the wall ; but the avenger overtook
him, and buried the pick-axe deep in his skull.

"For a moment the young man stood contemplating the
body of his victim ; then stirred it with his foot as if to ascer-
tain that it was really lifeless, and returned to the grave, lifting
his hands to heaven as if deprecating its wrath. But at this
moment Dario saw the corpse of the girl sitting erect, and
endeavoring to divest itself of its cerements, and, terrified at
the sight, could no longer restrain an exclamation ; at the
sound of which, Martin, casting a lingering glance at his be-
loved, withdrew slowly from the cemetery, — as Dario thought,
to fetch assistance.

" As you had left San Juan, as you tell me, on the same day,
probably you have not heard that Martin disappeared from the
town at the same time, going alone to the presidio of Altar, to
his hacienda ; and is now at the placer in California, having
left Mexico, I suppose, until the remembrance of the tragic
affair has died away.

" Inquiring of Dario why he had not in the first place seized

KEEL AND SADDLE. 231

the idiot in the act of profanation, and, above all, why he had not
interfered at the last to save the woman, — who, doubtless, had
been restored to consciousness by the action of the cool night
air, but, unassisted, had sunk again into the arms of death,
— the poor ignorant creature replied, that 'the child of
Heaven,' as he called the idiot, had resuscitated the dead by
his power derived from above ; and that, in her second death,
he recognized Heaven's vengeance for the murder of its child.

"I did not then attempt to enlighten the ignorance, and
overthrow the superstition, of the poor Indian ; but afterwards,
I hope successfully, I explained to him the true attributes of
our heavenly Father, and his ineffable goodness to the mean-
est of his children."

Here ended the recital of Father Ipolito. The mystery was
explained at last. One of my pastilles had been stolen by
Pancho, and part of it dissolved in a cup of chocolate, which I
remembered hearing that she had drank just before the wed-
ding-feast. The potion must have been a powerful one, but
not necessarily fatal ; for my medicine was slow in its opera-
tion, although its effects lasted for a long time.

The mutual confidences of the good father and myself were
properly authenticated, at his request. And thus ends the
sad story of the Fair Maid of the Inn.

XXX.

ON our return to the capital, a military expedition was
prepared to march against those rebellious chiefs who had
organized armed resistance to the authority of the government
in the State of Michoacan.

This force consisted of some two thousand infantry, fifteen
hundred cavalry, and two batteries, of which the president
assumed the command.

The cavalry and infantry began their march at midnight,
and were already far on their road, the artillery still parked in
the grand square before the national palace, when, at early
dawn, we were awakened from sleep by fifty trumpets and
cornets in the court, sounding the inspiriting strains of the
Diana. I immediately mounted, and put my guns in motion ;
and, when we halted for our desayuna at the garita of Belen,
the column was overtaken by the president and his staff". We
bivouacked that night at Quajimalpa, a poor village ; and next
day arrived at Toluca, one of the most beautiful as well as one
of the most ancient of the cities of Mexico. The mountain of
Tutucuitlalpico rises above the city fifteen thousand feet ; and
upon its very summit is a lake of clear, ice-cold water. Con-
tinuing our march, we halted the next day at La Gabia, a
hacienda belonging to the Count of Regla, thirty square
leagues in extent. This vast estate shares the peculiarities of
nearly every climate, from hot to cold, and yields their several
products. In its area may be found flourishing, according to

282

KEEL AND SADDLE. 233

the different elevations of the soil, wheat, maize, and the fruits
of the temperate zone ; and, not far off, sugar-cane, coffee,
palms, and olives, and all the rich and luscious varieties of
tropical fruits. The State of Michoacan, or Morelia, has been
considered since the times of the Montezumas the most fertile
as well as the loveliest district of Mexico, and is entitled to
the appellation of the Garden of the Valley.

Our little army pushed on through Taximaroa, San Andres,
and other villages, with the easy gait and insouciant manner
that distinguish the Mexican soldiers, — who make marches that
would astonish any other troops, on the smallest amount of
sustenance, — and slept that night at the hacienda of Queren-
daro.

The next morning our cavalry was engaged with that of the
enemy ; but the fight proved to be a mere affair of outposts ;
and for another day or two we continued our route unmolested,
although hostile cavalry was seen hovering about our column.
On the 25th of February, 1852, the army was marching over
a difficult and dangerous road, and the head of the column had
become engaged in a deep and narrow defile, when it was
heavily attacked on both flanks. My two batteries were near
the middle of the column : the infantry were thrown back upon
us in confusion, and a panic began to spread among the whole
command. Seeing how vain would be any effort to rally the
disorganized infantry, and that the situation called for a diver-
sion of another kind, I resolved that my artillerists should
furnish it. At my command, they quickly dismounted and sep-
arated the pieces and carriages of two mountain-guns, having
been previously well drilled in that manoeuvre. They then
took, one a wheel, another the brails and axles, a third an-
other wheel, while four or five carried the pieces themselves
between them with their lassoes : others followed with the
implements and ammunition for the guns, and, struggling
manfully up the almost perpendicular sides of the defile, re-
20*

234 KEEL AND SADDLE.

mounted the guns, and opened a rapid fire upon the left flank
of the enemy. This feat could not have been performed by
any troops but Mexicans. In no other country is the lasso so
skilfully used, and none but Mexican military saddles have
heads to secure it ; soldiers of other nations are not so good
horsemen as Mexicans ; and, finally, no other than agile, sure-
footed, unshod Mexican horses could have climbed that fearful
ascent.

Like his rider, the horse of the country is trained to chase,
and assist his master in overthrowing wild cattle of greatly
superior strength ; and the manner of breaking him to the
saddle, of bitting him, of saddling and riding him, is diametri-
cally opposite to all European methods, civil or military. As
to Americans, except in the Far West, where the best riders
adopt the Mexican fashions, equestrian exercises have fallen
so completely into desuetude, that we have now only park-
riding, which is but a poor imitation of the "Bois" and
"Rotten Row."

This sudden artillery-attack shook the enemy, and gave time
to our men to rally, who again pressed forward into the defile ;
while our cavalry, coming up in the rear, decided the event, and
drove the rebels from the field.

Emerging from the defile, we saw the forces of the latter in
line of battle in the plain, and formed to attack them ; but, at
the first shot from the much-dreaded artillery, they retreated,
pursued by our cavalry, to Patzcuaro.

Under the walls of that town they made another stand : but
the artillery again put them to flight ; and we entered the city
in triumph, where the president established his head-quarters,
the rebels retreating to the mountains. Having dispersed
the facciosos as they were called, and restored order in this
beautiful State, until its next disturbance we could turn our
attention to social enjoyment, in which we were aided and
entertained by some of the very persons who had fought

KEEL AND SADDLE. 235

against us ; and, the objects of the campaign having been
attained, we returned leisurely to the capital.

There, having been badly wounded, I became the guest of a
family from whom I received the kindest care.

While confined within-doors, my former friends often came
in to while away the dull hours with agreeable conversation.

Among these was a young man who held a government
office, and who had often questioned me about the different
countries I had seen, and sought such other information as I
was able to impart.

One day I asked him, in return, to relate to me his own
experiences ; and, complying at once, he told his little history,
which, as it forms an admirable commentary upon the manners
of the country, I may repeat in a free translation of his own
language without being charged with digression.

" Commonplace and uneventful as my humble memoir may
appear to you, colonel, who have had such large experience
of all countries, it still has a moral, and perhaps implies a
satire upon our Mexican society, of which I am an insignifi-
cant member. I am a native of Guadalajara. My parents
died while I was yet young, after having given me as good an
education as they could afford with their very limited means.
They left me no money, but much taste for spending it

"I languished some time after their death, in a small
provincial town, on a modest employment, which permitted me
to ride a borrowed nag on the Pasco on Sundays and holidays,
and to purchase my inexpensive toilet and cigarritos, until I
arrived in this city. I had come to the conclusion in my
humble retreat that Fortune at last must be weary of neglect-
ing my claims to a more brilliant position.

" With a purse light indeed when compared to my hopes
and expectations, I descended at the best hotel in Mexico,
and ordered the best accommodations. I was conducted at

236 KEEL AND SADDLE.

once with welcoming salutations to an elegant though small
apartment, furnished with taste and comfort ; and at once
understood that I had entered a fashionable, and, consequently,
expensive house.

"'Ave Maria,' thought I: 'my destiny has changed at last,
and I must conduct myself like a well horn and nurtured
youth ; for, as everybody knows, such a one is a person for
whom society does a great deal, while he does as little as
possible for society, public consideration here below being in
inverse ratio to one's usefulness.'

"Being left alone, I approached the window, and, looking
into the street, perceived a young woman on the balcony of
the next house, who smiled pleasantly at my appearance.

" Too well-bred not to understand such advances, I saluted
the lady, who politely returned my courtesy. Emboldened by
such condescension, I made a sign in our digital language,
which meant that I thought her charming ; and blew her a
kiss.

" The young woman burst into a laugh, and retired, shutting
the window. ' Good ! ' thought I : ' an adventure has already
commenced. Really, the capital pleases me : I shall be en-
chanted to inhabit it.' As dinner at the mesa redonda was
not to be served for an hour or so, I employed the intervening
time in a street promenade ; taking possession, as it were.

" The streets were filled with people intent on business or
pleasure. The gay air of the latter, and the complacency of
the negociantes, were pleasing to a stranger; while occasional
glimpses of handsome ladies on their balconies, children
returning from school, and other lively sights which diversify
the streets of our city, gave me an agreeable impression.
' Ah ! ' thought I, ' here every one lives but for amusement :
every thing seems en fiesta.'

" I have always thought that life is only understood in
great cities. I regarded the passing crowds ; and it seemed to

KEEL AND SADDLE. 237

me that already I knew these persons, who henceforth were to
be my fellow-citizens. I murmured to myself the names on
the signs of the shops ; and even felt an impulse to salute the
passers, and to inquire after their healths. Continuing my
walk, I arrived at my hotel, and seated myself at the mesa
redonda, near an old schoolmate whom I recognized. As was
natural, we mutually informed each other of the motives which
had led us to the capital.

" 'I have come here to occupy a government-office/ said I.

" * And I also/ said my friend Valdes, ' came with the same
intention, but have already lost all hope.'

" < Why ? ' said I.

" ' The place I was desirous of possessing,' answered
Valdes, ' depends upon the minister of the interior.'

" ' Mine also depends upon the same official,' I returned.

"'I have just seen him, and he announced to me that a
rival possessing incontestable claims would be preferred to me.'

*' ' Know you who he is ? '

" 'I do not know his name ; but he has written some articles
upon the administration of his department for " The Siglo,"
and is a licentiate : he is also a relative of Gen. Bravo.'

" ' Caracoles, hombre ! it is I ! ' ejaculated your humble
servant, with a sudden joy he could not conceal.

" Francisco Valdes made an exclamation of surprise.

" ' Pardon me, my poor friend,' said I, concealing my joy
under an affected air of modesty. ' I am in despair at having
been the cause of thy disappointment; but that particular
place has been promised me for a long time. I had, indeed, a
claim upon it, as the honorable minister told thee.'

" ' So you are the nephew of Gen. Bravo ? ' said Francisco.

" ' I am, indeed, the nephew of my uncle,' said I gayly.
' But be not uneasy : I hope to acquire some influence with
the minister ; and thou shalt have the very first agreeable
vacancy.'

238 KEEL AND SADDLE.

" Dinner over, and feeling that sort of generosity that is
natural to a victor, I would not abandon my friend Valdes to
gloomy reflections on his defeat, but accompanied him to the
Alameda. Although it was the fashionable hour, and all the
ton of the city was airing itself in carriages, on horseback, or
on foot, my friend seemed dejected and disgusted. He found
the gardens badly laid out, the women homely, and the
weather — here in Mexico ! — unpleasant.

" The true sun of most men is not in heaven : it is in the
heart ; it is joy. Reaching a gentle eminence from which the
eye could take in the city, the volcanoes, the lakes, with their
floating chinampas, and the whole unrivalled panorama of our
glorious valley, I could not help stopping, and uttering an
exclamation of delight ; but my companion only shrugged his
shoulders with contempt.

" ' I always did hate a great city,' said he. ' What is it but
a comb void of honey ; an ant-hill, whose population is forever
laboring without reaching satisfactory results ? Such is human
life, — action, bustle, everywhere ; but substantial results
nowhere. Water runs ; the wind passes by us ; we grow old,
and die ; and all is ended. What law governs all this agi-
tation ? Why, chance. Some arrive at their destination
without having taken their departure ; while others are forever
departing, but never arrive. The happy are those 'heavy
fathers ' and stage-uncles who stick to their parts. But look
at those wretched leperos, so out of place in this gay crowd !
They cower under the pelting of the storm while traversing
the dreary path of life ; and, when they arrive at the coach-
office of destiny, there are no tickets left.'

" Somewhat annoyed by these allusions, I ventured to
remark that the first condition of success in seeking place is
the possession of talent; the poor in wit being like the poor
in purse, — unable to furnish an equivalent for the enjoyment
of a good position. But, seeing that my remarks piqued

KEEL AND SADDLE. 239

Valdes, I added, ' Philosophy is out of place just after dinner :
so let us digest now, and postpone business until to-morrow.
Can we complain of life or of society while enjoying this per-
fumed breeze, or while listening to that murmuring brook ?
No one, Francisco, can claim to be exclusively happy or
miserable. The rich have need of the admiration of the
poor, the powerful of the approbation of the weak.

" ' Look at these charming women as they pass. It is for
.us that they wish to appear beautiful ; those sumptuous car-
riages are gilded but for our admiration ; those lackeys are
gorgeously liveried, not for their masters, but for us ; and that
old gentleman, who rides so badly, exposes himself to a broken
neck only that we may be amused.'

" A cavalier of ripe age, dressed in a splendid Mexican
riding-costume and mounted on a richly-caparisoned horse,
appeared at this moment on the Alameda. It was easy to see
that his steed was well trained in those acts of the manege
taught by our ginetes to a caballo galan ; and he threatened
at times to bring his rider to grief. He caracoled gayly,
frequently turning upon his tracks, snorting, and champing
the bit, and often taking as many steps to the rear as to the
front ; which is the last degree of perfection in a horse of the
haute ecole.

XXXI.

" rj iHE old cavalier, ill at ease, tried to induce his fiery

_I_ charger to rest a little from his gambadoes ; but the
horse snorted, threw up his head, and passed on. Valdes
stopped to gaze at the retreating horseman. ' He looks like a
pair of tailor's shears on horseback,' said he : 'he must be a
very great man to possess the right to make himself so
ridiculous.' I noticed that all the promenaders saluted the
old gentleman with respect and deference; the ladies, especial-
ly, bestowing radiant glances upon him. ' Mean flatterers ! '
remarked Valdes. ' If he were a poor ranchero, they would
point their fingers in scorn at him. See him, now, parading
before that carriage ! He strongly resembles a circus clown.
I have a great mind to hiss him.'

" ' Silence ! ' said I : 'he approaches. He is a person of im-
portance : see his decoration ! '

" ' Ho, ho ! ' said Francisco. ' Let us view him nearer : we
may extract some amusement from his capers. Such a carica-
ture must not be permitted to pass with impunity.'

" ' Take care what you do, Francisco ! ' cried I. And he,
' I am not a public functionary, but a free man, and may have
an opinion of my own.'

"So saying, Valdes walked rapidly to a little green eleva-
tion bordering the path followed by the cavalier; but sud-
denly I saw him stop, step rapidly forward, and salute the old
gentleman. At the same moment the horse made a volt,

240

KEEL AND SADDLE. 241

and the old man's hat flew off, and was carried some distance
by the wind.

" Valdes ran in pursuit of the sombrero ; missed it three
times, and caught it at the fourth trial. He brushed it care-
fully with his sleeve ; then ran to the ridiculous cavalier, to
whom he presented it with a low bow.

"'What the devil can he be about?' thought I; and,
curious to know the reason of this sudden change of demeanor
in Valdes, I endeavored to gain admittance to the roadway
through the crowd : but the old cavalier instantly quitted
the Alameda, Valdes accompanying him, walking by the side
of the caballo galan.

" I returned to the hotel, still mystified by what I had seen
on the Alameda ; and, meeting the landlord at the entrance,
asked him the name of my fair neighbor, who occupied her
balcony.

" ' Ah, ha ! ' answered he, ' that little one ? '

" ' Yes, to be sure.'

u ' She is una senorita libre ' (' a free young lady '). ' She
is called " Rita." Ah ! indeed, with her coquettish airs, and
her great languishing eyes flashing from under her rebosito.'

"Then, assuming a grave air, he continued: 'She has
helped to spend more than one liberal inheritance among my
quondam lodgers. I often have here unsophisticated young
men travelling for information.'

" Hearing this account of my neighbor, I virtuously deter-
mined never to open my window, or to waft more kisses from
it; and, night drawing on, ascended to my apartment, and
began to work at some literary employment I had in hand.
In about a couple of hours I rose, walked to the window, and
cautiously looked towards the house of my vis-a-vis, having
been attracted by the sound of voices.

" I saw a man, whom I recognized as the ridiculous cavalier
of the Alameda, standing before the door of my fair neighbor,
21

KEEL AND SADDLE.

which was held ajar by an old woman, whom he was suppli-
cating for admission.

" I could make out from their colloquy that the vieja (old
woman) was obdurate ; and she finally retired, repeating a
Spanish proverb, signifying, that, when one has no teeth, one
cannot expect to crack nuts.

" The visitor, however, still lingered under the window, ap-
parently hoping for reconsideration of the refusal ; when I
heard a whispered conversation, interrupted by stifled laughter,
in the chamber of the ' free young lady.' Suddenly the win-
dow opened, and Rita appeared, bearing a vase in which was
a large bouquet.

" The gay old cavalier raised his head, and softly whispered
her name ; but a deluge of cold water and flowers prevented
him from saying more. I could not refrain from bursting into
a laugh at his discomfiture, which drew his observation toward
me. 'Ah ! ' said he, ' it is, then, a preconcerted affair.'

"He then groped his way up the narrow street, keeping
close to the houses, and, with a shame-faced air, disappeared
in the obscurity.

"I did not avail myself of the opportunity to enter into
conversation with Rita, who lingered invitingly on the bal-
cony. My sense of dignity as an official of the government
obliged me to adhere strictly to propriety ; and, feeling
sleepy, I re-entered my chamber, and shut the window. 'A
courtesan!' said I contemptuously to myself while putting on
my nightcap ; ' to trade on one's beauty ! I have ever detested
the race ; and, now that I know the truth, this one appears
hideous. I must turn a deaf ear to her blandishments : it is
quite easy to one of positive delicacy like myself.' So saying,
I slept soundly. My dreams were pleasant : I imagined that
I had been elected president, and, making a European tour
after the expiration of my term of office, married a German
princess with a nice dot, an army of three men, and the right

KEEL AND SADDLE, 243

to nominate half a deputy to the diet. Awaking the next
morning, I found that both the sun and my pretty neighbor
had already risen. She was seated near her window, engaged
in embroidery, while she hummed ajarabe.

1 Aforrado de mi vlda ! " yo te quisiora cantar,"
For mis ojos son tiernas, y empezaran a llorar.'

De Guadalajara vengo, lideando eon an soldado,
Solo por venir a vcr a mi jarabe aforrado.'

" The last versicle was appropriate to her souvenir of myself,
I thought; for she looked up, smiled, with a blush over her
features, and, without acknowledging my rather distant salu-
tation, lowered her head over her work with an air of sadness.

" I finished my toilet with care ; for I had heard that the
minister of the interior received at an early hour, in order to
appear like a man of business-habits. I placed the letter of
my uncle (the general) in my breast-pocket, and started for
the house, which I entered, quite awe-struck with its magnifi-
cence.

" The high windows splendidly draped, the broad staircase,
and roomy vestibule, announced wealth and power. I felt an
innate respect for one so well lodged, my assurance diminishing
in proportion to the size of the apartments I traversed ; until
my self-mistrust ciilminated on entering a vast saloon hung
with silk, and superbly furnished.

" I delivered the general's letter to a servant, who prayed
me to wait uutil his Excellency had finished his toilet. Left
alone, I walked round the room, curiously at first, then with a
furtive step. I was troubled, I knew not why. I consulted
my watch, although I did not wish to know the hour ; and at
last seated myself mentally to rehearse the compliments I
wished to pay to the great man, as I piqued myself on my
knowledge of the world, and of the art of pleasing. 'All

244 KEEL AND SADDLE.

men,' said I to myself, 'are alike. Take plenty of vanity, ditto
of egotism, a few grains of chance, double the same number
of vices disguised as virtues, mix well together, and you have
indifferently a king or a cobbler. The surest way to success
is humility. One has but to listen when a patron speaks in
order to be credited with wit and wisdom. Should his Excel-
lency have his weak points, so much the better: they will be
so many rounds of the ladder to aid me to mount.' As I ended
my monologue, a door opened, and a gorgeous robe de chambre
appeared. ' His Excellency ! ' said the servant.' We each
made a step towards the other, and recoiled simultaneously.
I beheld the same person who had been repulsed so scornfully
by Rita the previous evening ; while the minister clearly rec-
ognized mo as the stranger who had made merry at his mis-
hap! Both were embarrassed; but the minister first recovered
his presence of mind, assumed a tone of dignified coolness, and
remarked, ' You are the gentleman recommended by Gen.
Bravo ; are you not ? ' glancing at the letter which he held
negligently.

" ' I am,' said I trembling.

" ' Ah ! no doubt you have claims ? '

" t His Excellency must have seen — in the letter — of the
general,' I faltered.

" ' Oh, yes ! he spoke of some articles written for " The
Siglo," — true; but who is there that does not write for the
newspapers now-a-days ? A licentiate too : ah ! that is not
an uncommon distinction. Meanwhile, I will see. I wish to
be useful to any one recommended by the general. Ah !
come and see me, — some other time : just now I am busy.'

" Speaking thus, his Excellency waved me politely towards
the door; upon nearing which, as I involuntarily obeyed his
gestures, I suddenly comprehended that all would be lost in
case I did not insist upon something at once."

XXXII.

situation in which I was left in the preceding chap-

JL ter was a critical one ; and I nerved myself to meet it
with the courage of despair. ' Pardon me, your Excellency,'
said I ; ' but the general gave me hopes that your protection
would be accorded me.'

" The minister frowned. ' Have I promised any thing ? '
asked he coldly.

" ' Nothing ; but the general told me — he thought — by his
advice I left the employment I had, hoping to establish my-
self at the capital.'

" ' Do you know any one here ? " asked the minister with an
appearance of eagerness.

' No one,' I answered. ' I arrived only yesterday.'

" ' Ah ! really ? I imagined I had met you somewhere.'

" By the bitter and angry manner and tone which emphasized
this last remark, I understood that all hope had fled. I made
a step backward, and joined my hands, articulating, ' Oh ! why
should I have seen what I did last night ? '

" 'It all seems like the translation of a verse of Ovid,' coldly
remarked the minister.

" I twisted my hat in my hands nervously, and gazed around
with a frightened air: a cold sweat bathed my forehead, and I
essayed to make my exit, but, stopping an instant, ventured to
say,—

" ' May I ask his Excellency for whom my place is destined ? '

21* 245

246 KEEL AND SADDLE.

The door opened, and the servant announced ' Don Fran-
cisco Valdes I' It was a ray of light to the minister. ' Behold
my answer ! ' said he.

Francisco stopped at once with a stupefied air. ' I, Excel-
lency ? ' said he.

" ' I would not announce it to you yesterday, when I had the
honor to meet you on the Alameda ; I had not then fully de-
cided : hut, since that time, your respective rights to the place
have been more fully ascertained.'

" ' All right ! ' said I, thinking of the adventure of the vase.
' Oh meanness personified ! and this is what is called society ? '

" The door stood wide open, and I made but two steps down
stairs and into the street. Reaching the open air, I collected
my scattered thoughts, and relaxed my haste. There was,
seemingly, a weight upon my chest. I felt at once furious and
humiliated. It seemed to me that I must discharge upon some-
body the grief that oppressed me.

" I imagined that all the incidents of my interview with the
minister were written upon my forehead for every one to read.

" I hurriedly traversed the streets, the alleys, and the squares,
casting furious glances on the houses, and on the people I met.
Mexico, just then, appeared hateful. * What a noise ! ' I mur-
mured, ' what disorder ! Why are those idlers abroad ? no one
works here ! ' And my thoughts reverting to my adventure, —
'Ah, ha ! success in this place comes by picking up the hats of
great men. City of injustice and debauchery, Mexican Sodom !
thy prizes are only to be gained by parasites and sycophants.
Cursed city ! I shake thy dust from my shoes.' As I achieved
this imprecation, I was rejoined by my successful rival.

" In his turn, Valdes had assumed the joyful air and depre-
catory accent that I had put on the previous evening. ' Well/
said he, 'my poor friend, it seemed I deceived myself: my
claims have at last been recognized.'

" * Hardly worth while to talk about claims/ said I : ' does
not favor decide every thing here below ? '

KEEL AND SADDLE. 247

" ' You thought otherwise yesterday,' he answered ; ' and, by
your own avowal, the unsuccessful are only the poor in wit.'
He refrained from finishing his speech; but I bit my lips with
spite at the justice of his remark.

"'For the future,' said Francisco with graceful dignity,
'count on me. The minister wishes me well; and, should any
vacancy occur ' — I could listen no longer; and, darting a dis-
dainful glance at poor Francisco, I turned my back upon him,
and hurried forward.

" Fatigued at last by desperate and aimless wanderings
through the streets, I returned to the hotel, shut myself up in
my chamber, and fell into philosophic reflection upon what had
happened. ' After all,' I thought, ' why make myself miserable ?
My misfortunes only please the minister, who regards them as a
kind of homage to his power. In afflicting myself, then, I am
but the accomplice of his vengeance. My fortune has been
compromised, it is true ; I am without a place ; my bill in this
hotel is unpaid ; and I have about cash enough left to buy a
hook and a rope to hang myself withal : still it is more digni-
fied to support my reverses manfully. His Excellency doubt-
less believes me now in bed, crushed by misfortune, and taking
hartshorn to quiet my nerves. Well, I will disappoint him
by passing a pleasant evening.' So saying, I rang the bell
with all the confidence of a millionnaire.

" ' Let me have an excellent supper ! ' I cried to the waiter ;
' a roasted chichalaka (pheasant) and your best wine, —
champagne and Burgundy. Above all, let the supper be well
served. Go ! '

"I drew my curtains, and lighted four new wax candles. A
table was soon set with bright crystal on snowy damask, and I
sat down to a supper that would have made a gourmand smile
with pleasure. With the first course my spirits revived, and
I convinced myself that the loss of such a place as that I as-
pired to was not irreparable, and that I could obtain another
equally desirable and less onerous.

248 KEEL AND SADDLE.

" At the secord course I rejoiced that the minister had re-
fused me a place, in which, had I accepted it, my high destinies
would have been trammelled by the petty bonds of a subaltern
employment.

" With the dessert I believed myself a prince living in an
enchanted palace, while docile genii anticipated all my wants,
and ministered to my desires.

" The generous wine quickened my pulses ; my bosom's lord
sat lightly on his throne ; the pictures danced upon the walls ;
and the floor seemed to sway lightly under my feet with a
dreamy movement, like the swinging of a grass-hammock.

" I jested with the waiter, who seemed charmed with my wit ;
and, finally, I tossed off my chasse and sallied into the street,
occupying the whole broad staircase in my descent. The sky
sparkled with the stars of our charming tropic night, and I
thought that no city could be more beautiful. The very man-
sions around me seemed illuminated as if for a triumph : joy
and benevolence were inhaled with the perfumed air. I politely
saluted several passers, although they were utter strangers to
me. I dropped a duro in the begging-box at the street-corner ;
laughed heartily at two leperos engaged in gambling for clacos ;
and entered a Punch show, crowded with galopinas (chamber-
maids), which I soon deserted for the open air. I walked rapidly
for a space ; then loitered, and began talking to myself: —

" ' Wine is calumniated,' I said with enthusiasm. ' It is
the best of God's gifts to man. It is not what some fanatics
would have us believe, nor is its analysis what chemists assert.
Wine is liquid sunbeams. It is the beautiful sky and invigor-
ating climate of Southern Europe bottled, and brought to us
here in the tropics. Ah, celestial fluid ! it is thou that re-
animates the sinking heart, and transforms vulgar brains
into festive halls in which thousands of lovely visions glide
through graceful dances.'

" Musing after this manner, I at length found myself in the

KEEL AND SADDLE. 249

street of my hotel, entering it at the side opposite to that which
I had generally used. Pausing at what I supposed to be the
door of the hotel, I knocked for admittance. A window above
opened ; a head was thrust out, and immediately disappeared :
the door was unfastened, and an old woman admitted me. I
was still distraught, occupied indeed with thoughts suggested
by my vinous dithyrambic, and mechanically ascended the
stairway without giving it special notice. Before I realized
my situation, I found myself in a chamber not my own, vis-a-
vis with La Rita.

" To have excused myself, alleging that I had mistaken the
house, would have been the part of a country booby : so I
accosted my fair hostess as if I had come to make a call of
ceremony. The old woman disappeared ; and I found the young
girl, on a near view, remarkably handsome. She received me
graciously ; and we were soon engaged in animated conversa-
tion.

" ' Cielo ! ' thought I, ' this is a worthy crowning of my even-
ing's pleasure, — post Bacchum, Venus!'

"Rita did not assume a character not her own, and, from the
discussion of general subjects, soon glided into excuses for the
life she was leading. I was not in a censorious humor : indeed,
I re-enforced her arguments in her own defence, telling her, for
example, that, in ancient Greece, women, her prototypes, like
Aspasia and others, helped materially to form the manners of
that cultivated nation.

" After an hour or more, I rose to depart. ' Do you remain
long in this city ? ' asked Rita.

" ' Alas ! ' said I, ' I thought so yesterday : but my hopes have
been blasted; and thou, perhaps, art the cause.'

"'How so?'

" I related my story.

"'If that is all,' said she, 'I think I can arrange matters. I
have hitherto, as you have seen, repelled the advances of his

2.50 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Excellency ; but, for thy sake, I will not only give him an inter-
view, but will promise thee also that thy wishes shall be granted
beforehand.'

"'Indeed!' returned I: 'then art thou my good angel!'
And, bidding her good-night, I returned to my hotel with a
profound contempt for honest women.

"The next morning I slept quite late; remaining in bed,
indeed, until the servant brought me a note from the minister
of the interior, couched in the politest terms, and asking me
to 'do him the honor' to breakfast with him, so that he could
explain himself upon the 'misunderstanding' of the day be-
fore. I understood at once from what quarter had come the
change in his sentiments; and, while dressing, according to my
habitual custom, addressed to myself this monologue : —

" ' So,' said I, ' the place I wished for is to be granted, not
to my talents, but to the solicitation of a lady of the demi-
monde. Well, what does it matter, since it has been conceded
to the influence which my person and accomplishments have
produced upon a woman ? Women are our primal protectors.
As infants, we are nourished from their bosoms ; in middle age
we are indebted to them for the delights of love ; and, when we
grow old, their care soothes our sufferings, and assists our in-
firmities. Is it not more honorable and agreeable to owe one's
fortune to a young girl than to some old dowager who would
marry you against your inclinations?'

"Having leisurely performed my toilet, I set out for the
house of the minister ; and, although I knew that I was much
belated, — for I arrived long after the hour specified in his
note, — I felt no uneasiness on that account. The day before
I appealed to the justice and benevolence of his Excellency ;
now I came recommended to his vices : so I was not the least
troubled.

" The minister excused himself for having asked me to
breakfast at so early an hour ; saying, that, upon a reperusal

KEEL AND SADDLE. 251

of the general's letter, he saw more in it than had met his eye
on its first reading, and even recognized a mistake of persons
on his part. He added some complimentary remarks on my
literary works, and announced that a commission for the place
would be issued to me the same morning. On my part, I gave
proof of an excellent appetite ; flattered my host like a man
of wit and tact ; approved of every thing about him without
exaggeration ; and, at the close of the meal, left the minister
enchanted with my parts.

" As to Valdes, he could never again get the entree at the
minister's ; and, after several ineffectual attempts, he resigned
himself to his fate, and returned to his village.

" When my uncle, the general, knew of the appointment of
his nephew, he merely remarked, ' I was sure of it : the min-
ister of the interior can refuse me nothing.' He wrote, nev-
ertheless, to thank his friend, and accompanied the letter with
a handsome present.

" I continue to keep on excellent terms with both my patron
and La Rita, who also maintains her place in his regard. His
Excellency and myself are frequently seen on horseback to-
gether : and, thanks to his lessons, I have already become a
tolerable cavalier; although I thought I had won a right to
that distinction long before I came to the capital, having had
the usual experience of all my countrymen in that exercise.

" Perhaps, my colonel, at the conclusion of my little memoir,
you would like to know my opinion as to the best mode of suc-
ceeding in life in our country, to which my experience has
been confined. I will tell you in the words of my invariable
answer to all young men who question me on that subject :
'Merit is one's best Maecenas and patron.' I have always said
it, and have proved it by my own example. I sometimes add,
that it is only in high principles that one should seek for
success and happiness."

XXXIII.

spring of the year 1852 was now at hand, and the
- time propitious for a change to a more northern climate,
which, for various reasons, I was desirous of making. About
this time, also, happened the contingency for which I had pro-
vided when I accepted service in the Mexican army. This
was the retirement of my excellent patron and friend, Don
Mariano Arista, from the presidency.

Accordingly, I resigned my commission, receiving on the
occasion numerous testimonials both public and private, and
prepared to leave the republic, in which I had led a somewhat
eventful life, and had always been treated with uniform kind-
ness and hospitality. Besides the sunny skies, the unrivalled
climate, and the magnificent scenery, of this portion of our
globe, so favored by bountiful Nature, and eulogized by Hum-
boldt as unique among the countries he had visited, I left
behind me many kind and steadfast friends, and a few families
to whom I felt truly attached, and whom I hoped again to
meet.

There is a nameless and indescribable charm in Mexico
which holds every one who has lived for a term of years within
its boundaries, and which begets a longing to revisit it which
never fades. The Spaniards who returned to their own coun-
try after the revolution which separated the colonies from
Spain were especially aifected with this nostalgia, we are
told; and there is a proverb which corroborates the statement:

252

KEEL AND SADDLE. 253

" Si en Indias fueres, sea en donde los volcanes vieres " (" If
you ever go to the Indies, let it be where the volcanoes are").

Having completed the preparations for my departure, I left
the city in company with a young Californian returning from
the placer with a notable sum in dust, — his two-years' har-
vest, — whose acquaintance I had made in the capital. Besides
ourselves, there were nine other passengers by the diligence, all
natives of the country, mostly commercial gentlemen bound
to Vera Cruz. Not one of them was armed ; for the sons of
the country have an idea, that to resist robbers only provokes
them to greater atrocities.

All went well with us until we arrived at the stopping-place
at Perote, where the passengers slept, on the last stage to
Vera Cruz. Next morning, the coach started ; and the nine
insides, including myself, were resuming our interrupted
dozings, when two shots were heard in quick succession. The
coach stopped: there was some hard swearing; and all got
out into the road.

There was nothing strange to be seen, however, except two
dead bodies riddled with buck-shot, which lay, one on each side
of the highway, where they had been tumbled by the right
and left barrels of my fowling-piece, in the hands of my com-
panion Twichell, who was seated beside the driver.

The driver said there was a third person, and recognized one
of the rateros, (foot-pads), who he said, the evening before, had
questioned him at Perote about the passengers and their na-
tionality.

These two had seized the heads of the leaders of our team,
while the third man tried to cut the traces ; and only the
prompt action of Twichell had saved the passengers. Yet
they were all highly indignant at my comrade, and myself
who sustained him, dreading, as they said, the revenge of the
robbers. They had come prepared for robbers, with pinchbeck
watches, and but little money in their pockets. But we only
22

254 KEEL AND SADDLE.

laughed at them ; and soon the coach began its descent through
the defile of Cerro Gordo, near which place of glorious memory
for Americans the attempt had been made.

Arriving in due time at New Orleans, I was soon on my
way up the Mississippi, and entered the " belle riviere."

Among my fellow-passengers on the steamer was Lieut.
Thomas J. Jackson of the United-States army, who seemed, at
first, a remarkably quiet, reserved, although very intelligent of-
ficer, and with whom I soon became acquainted ; for there is
everywhere a sort of cameraderie among officers of the two ser-
vices which attracts them to each other in a crowd of strangers.
For several days the inland voyage continued; and our nights
were partly spent upon the hurricane-deck of the steamer,
engaged in conversation.

One of these conversations was so peculiar, that it fixed
itself in my memory ; and subsequent events proved it worthy
of record ; although, I confess, I hesitate to put in writing any
thing which seems to border so nearly on the marvellous.

One clear starlight night, as we glided along the calm river,
our conversation turned upon the firmament and its countless
orbs that looked down upon us. Jackson asked me if I had
ever been induced to take a flight from the study of nautical
astronomy, practised by all naval officers, into the realms of
astrology. I replied that I had always been interested, more
or less, in those mathematical studies required in nautical cal-
culations ; and that, from the exact rules demanded for working
the various problems of the ephemeris, I had sometimes, to
amuse the idle hours of a sea-life, worked out the nativities of
my shipmates. I had even taken Zadkiel's Almanac, and used
his rules, but without believing in the science of judicial astrol-
ogy. Jackson, however, was not so incredulous ; although it
was evident that he had not then decided fully within himself
as to the truth or falsehood of this exploded science.

" Why," said he, " should we be ridiculed for believing in

KEEL AND SADDLE. 255

this, as in other occult sciences, in this nineteenth century?
Magnetism! magnetic somnambulism! — who shall say that
the science of aerostation will not be made practically useful to
mankind ? Why should not the buoyant and elastic element
surrounding our earth be made the vehicle of transportation
from clime to clime for man and his increasing necessities ?
I will go farther, and ask, Who can doubt but that it will
eventually be so used, like its twin-element upon which we
are now afloat ? The means of directing those forces which
we know exist have not yet been discovered ; but that does
not prove that the air will not some day find its Fulton or its
Watt. The imperfect vision of things often appears to the
intelligence before the things themselves. The learned are free
to confess their ignorance ; but they should not elevate it into
a principle. They may understand and explain an immense
number of phenomena ; but the causes of these often entirely
escape them, or they are compelled to take them upon trust as
insoluble mysteries. Ask these savants the why and the
wherefore of the natural actions they investigate, and they
assume a solemn air, and refer you to the fabulous ages of
science. It is much easier to deny any relation of spirits to
matter than to demonstrate it.

" If the illuminati of the middle ages have not made sci-
ences, at least we cannot deny they have made poetry. Senti-
ment led them into the sphere of illusion, it is true ; bub
illusion is often the shadow of truth. Let it be remembered
that Kepler was an astrologer. The mathematician Cardan
relates that the events of his life were announced to him
through dreams, presentiments, and apparitions, by his familiar
genius, and by the movements of the stars. And these were
strong-minded men. Even Napoleon believed in his destiny,
and is said to have carried his belief in the supernatural far-
ther than his historians will admit. Those bright orbs above
us are living creatures. Each one of them is animated by a

256 KEEL AND SADDLE.

certain intelligence gifted with forces, and they act directly
upon our planet. Each ray of light falling to earth finds its
destination in the animate world. Not a living being, not even
a flower, but has its patron and guide on high in one of those
orbs suspended in ether. Why should not this wonderful in-
fluence transmitted through space, this communion of souls as
it may be called, this correspondence of the spheres, forming
a universal bond of union, determine also the destinies of the
beings they are known to influence ? Whenever one of those
worlds approaches another, does not each endeavor to draw
the other within the sphere of its attraction ? And who, in
this day, will deny the Newtonian theory?

" To foretell events, to pierce the heavy mist that conceals
from us the secrets of fate, is a universal longing of the human
heart. This longing is felt in the hut of the savage as well
as in the palaces of the great. So fierce and universal a de-
sire must be one of Nature's mysteries. She has already
opened our eyes to so many, it cannot be that she means to
deceive us in this one.

" If we do not read in the great book eternally open before
us in the skies, as we have already done in that book the leaves
of which are in the strata of the earth, it is because we have
only learned to spell, as yet, in the alphabet of mystery."

Before we parted at Pittsburg, a day or two after this
conversation, I had given Jackson the necessary data for
calculating a horoscope ; and, in the course of a few months,
I received from him a letter, which I preserved, enclosing a
scheme of my nativity. As any one who may have calcu-
lated these schemes by the rules must know, a horoscope may
be interpreted in various, even contradictory terms, by differ-
ent persons; and this was no exception to the rule. The
only reason I had for remembering it at all was, that our
destinies seemed to run in parallel lines ; and, so far, it was
remarkable. It was this peculiarity that caused Jackson to

KEEL AND SADDLE. 257

communicate with me, and the reason why I laid it carefully
aside for a re-examination.

The several planets were placed in their respective houses
above and below the horizon; and Saturn being near the
meridian, and approaching a square with the moon, great
danger was to be apprehended by the native at the period
when the aspect became complete. Mars also bore a threat-
ening aspect ; while Jupiter was below the horizon, and semi-
sextile, which was not altogether unfavorable. There was no
trine, and the sextile was weak. Altogether, from the evil
aspect of the square of Saturn, which threatened an opposi-
tion, — that most dreaded of all the evil aspects of the heav-
ens, — the scheme was quite dangerous and malign.

The precise time and nature of the threatened danger,
requiring a second calculation, accompanied the scheme, prog-
nosticating the culmination of the malign aspect within some
ten years, or during the first days of May, 1863 ; at which
time the native ran great risk of life and fortunes : but, in
case he survived that peril, the ominous period would never
again recur.

In his letter Jackson says, " I have gone over these cal-
culations several times, as their result is almost an exact
reproduction of my own. ... It is clear to me that we shall
both be exposed to a common danger at the time indicated."

Having but little faith in the almost-forgotten and alto-
gether-repudiated science of astrology, I took little heed of
either his scheme of nativity or his letter, regarding the for-
mer as ingenious, but as merely a proof of an ardent and some-
what enthusiastic temperament; while I little imagined, at
that time, that the rather unpolished and rugged exterior of
Lieut. Jackson concealed a character destined to become fa-
mous among his countrymen.

22*

XXXIV.

SOON after the events of the Italian campaign of 1858,
ending with the battle of Solferino, I found myself at
Strasburg in company with several officers returning to Paris,
who had served either in the French army, or in that of its
allies the Piedmontese. These gentlemen were of various
nationalities and ages, and met every evening at the Cafe du
Lion, where the campaign, and other subjects congenial to
military men, were discussed, according to the custom in Con-
tinental Europe.

My particular comrade and friend was a Russian colonel,
who had served in the artillery of King Victor Emanuel, partly
for exercise in a professional way, and partly, I think, to ease
his mind by an occasional shot at the Austrians, to whom, like
many of his countrymen, he certainly bore no good will. One
evening, the tables being all filled, as we were about to leave the
cafe to take one on the sidewalk, we were politely invited by
an elderly officer with the epaulets of a chef de bataillon, and
wearing several orders, among which we remarked that of the
iron crown, — now seldom seen, — to take seats at his table.
Accepting the hospitable invitation, we were soon at ease ; and
the conversation became quite animated.

Military discipline happened to be the theme ; and the
Russian at once vaunted that of his master the czar, depicting
the stolid devotion of the Russian private soldier, his perfect

258

KEEL AND SADDLE. 259

submission, and total indifference to death, although the army
is entirely recruited from the class of serfs.

I ventured to remark that all this might be true, but that
the French soldier also possessed a deep sense of moral obliga-
tion towards the necessities of discipline ; and, in addition to
those passive qualities, had, usually, skill and knowledge suf-
ficient to enable him to act when deprived of his officers, which,
possibly, the other could not do. I also said that I had never
heard of any considerable mutiny in the French army like
that of the British navy at the Nore, for example ; or of such
disorganization as that of the British army at Badajos.

The old chef de bataillon then said it was true that exam-
ples of the kind were very rare in the French army, but that
he had known of one such in his experience ; and that, if we
had the patience to listen, he would give us the details.

" It happened in this very city," added the old officer ; " but
all accounts of it were suppressed by the government of the
time, and, as far as I am aware, have not as yet passed into the
domain of history."

As I have never met with any account of this transaction,
I will venture to transcribe it here, as given by its narrator: —

" In the memorable year 1815 I belonged to the Army of the
Rhine, which, having valiantly fought during the summer of
that year, fell back upon Strasburg, numbering fifteen thou-
sand men, under the command of Gen. Count Rapp.

" The place was invested by the Austrians ; but, in consequence
of the political aspect just then, there was a truce between us.
The Bourbons had returned under the allied auspices, and had
made many concessions, which were unfavorably regarded by
the army, among which was the surrender of some strong
places and a quantity of war material. Our general also received
an order to disband and disarm the Army of the Rhine ; which it
was difficult for him to execute, there being heavy arrears due
the troops. After much negotiation with the royal ministers,

260 KEEL AND SADDLE.

Rapp sent his chief of staff in person to Paris ; but a deaf ear
was turned to his remonstrances and warnings, and he was
compelled to return with but four hundred thousand francs, —
a sum totally insufficient to discharge the arrears. His arrival
at Strasburg at once destroyed all hopes of a peaceful accom-
modation with the troops ; and, although he succeeded in ob-
taining an additional amount of a hundred and sixty thousand
francs from the municipal authorities, the mutiny at once burst
forth.

" At eight, A. M., of the 2d of September, about sixty
non-commissioned officers of the different regiments of the
garrison assembled in one of the bastions of the place, and
drew up a paper, stating that the Army of the Rhine would
consent to obey the order for its disbaudment, only upon
the following conditions : viz., first, that the officers, sub-
officers, and privates should receive all the pay due them ;
second, that all should depart on the same day, taking with
them their arms, baggage, and forty rounds of ball-cartridge
for each soldier.

" This programme having been approved by the meeting of
delegates, five of their number were appointed to call upon the
commanding general in order to communicate this unanimous
decision of the troops.

" The five delegates repaired to the palace ; and, after some
hesitation, were admitted to the presence of Rapp, who received
them in his bath, and listened to their respectful announce-
ment until the term ' conditions ' was mentioned. This word
made him furious; and, springing up, he exclaimed, 'Condi-
tions ! You wish to impose conditions on me ? ' The anger
of the general awed the delegates, who had not as yet lost all
respect for authority ; and they took their leave.

" The delegation then made their report to the rest of the
non-commissioned officers, about five hundred in number, who
immediately proceeded to adopt further measures, well knowing

KEEL AND SADDLE. 261

that a man like Rapp could never be intimidated. They had
already committed themselves by their action, and felt that
they must carry the affair to a termination of some kind, if
they wished it to be successful.

" Accordingly they informed the soldiers of their respective
corps of their repulse, and received from them further instruc-
tions. The meeting, held upon the Place d'Armes, unanimously
resolved to depose their officers temporarily; and, having
elected other officers in their places from the sub-officers, chose
as chief, for the time being, the sergeant-major of the Seventh
Light Infantry. This man was named Dalhousie, of remote
Scotch, but immediate French ancestry, and was well known
in the army as a person of capacity, courage, and a certain
soldierly loquacity peculiar to himself. Having been informed
of his election, he addressed his comrades in the following
pithy speech : —

* ' Comrades ! you wish to be paid your arrears in full ? Am
I right in saying that is your object in assembling here ?'

" ' Yes, yes ! ' shouted all present.

" ' Well, then,' said Dalhousie, ' if you promise to obey me
implicitly, to abstain from license or disorder, to respect prop-
erty, and to protect everybody, I swear by my head that you
shall be paid to the uttermost farthing within twenty-four
hours ! '

" This short allocution was received with applause ; and the
new general-in-chief proceeded to officer the troops afresh,
choosing the drum-major of the Fifty-eighth of the line as his
chief of staff.

" The troops then returned to their barracks.

" The generate was then beaten ; and the whole army, ex-
cepting the grand guards, pickets, and smaller guards. —
cavalry, artillery, and infantry, — appeared upon the Place
d'Armes in imposing array under their new officers. Mean-
while, Gen. Rapp, informed of the revolt, sallied forth from

262 KEEL AND SADDLE.

his headquarters, accompanied by his staff, and proceeded to
the same place to stop the seditious movement. The opera-
tions of the troops, however, had been conducted with such
celerity, that he arrived just as the columns, followed by
the populace, were debouching upon the square by all the
streets leading to it. They were immediately formed in line of
battle by battalions in mass, and commanded to fix bayonets.
The cavalry drew sabres, and two full batteries were loaded
with grape, before the very eyes of the general.

"Whenever Gen. B-app attempted to address the troops,
his voice was drowned by loud vociferations ; and the guns were
kept trained upon him and his staff as they shifted their
ground. One artillerist, especially, adjusted his piece so care-
fully and persistently, following every movement of the gen-
eral, that the latter advanced, and addressed him thus : ' Well,
miserable, do you wish to kill me ? Fire, if you dare ! Here
I am, at the muzzle of your gun ! ' — ' Ah ! mon general,' cried
the soldier, ' I was with you at Dantzic. I would freely give
you my life; but my comrades want their pay, and I am com-
pelled to act with them.' And he ominously blew his port fire.

" It was here in this very square, gentlemen," said the old
officer, warming up with his story, " that Count Rapp, deaf-
ened by the clamor of the troops, who seemed to be intent
only upon preventing him from being heard, and followed by a
tumultuous throng, finally decided to return to the palace.

"The troops kept close behind him; and, as soon as he en-
tered the gates, all the different entrances were occupied,
interior and exterior guards were detailed and posted, and
sentinels doubled at every post, including the staircase leading
to the general's private apartments. At the same time the
telegraph and the military chest were taken possession of,
and another guard sent to the Maison Rouge, the lodging of
the Austrian general Volkman, the commissioner, for his pro-
tection. The drawbridges were raised ; and all communication

KEEL AND SADDLE. 263

with the country outside the place was cut off, or permitted
only by passes signed by the new commandant. The new chief
of staff, with a trumpet, repaired to the headquarters of the
allied troops, and signified to their general, that, while he con-
tinued to observe the truce, the garrison would use no hostile
act towards his troops ; but that, if they attempted to profit by
the misunderstanding between the French general and his
soldiers, the latter would resist with their whole force. Dal-
housie established his headquarters upon the Place d'Armes,
and created two commissions, — one upon subsistence, composed
of commissary-sergeants ; and the other upon finances, of
sergeant-majors. They were declared permanent, and deliber-
ated upon the most suitable modes of maintaining public
tranquillity, and assuring the city against the possibility of
surprise either from without or within.

" The guards of the citadel and of all interior posts were
doubled, and the cantonments outside the place re-enforced.
The troops bivouacked on the public squares, and no military
precautions which the most zealous prudence could suggest were
forgotten. It was forbidden for a soldier to enter any place
in which spirituous liquors or beer were sold, under pain of
death ; and the same penalty was denounced against any one
guilty of pillage, disorder, or insubordination. In order to
further assure the public tranquillity, a bulletin was ordered
to be issued every six hours, containing full information of the
situation of affairs. The military chests were examined, and
estimates of the necessary sums required to liquidate the arrears
of pay made out in full. Dalhousie convened the municipal
council, to which he made full representations of the reasons
which led the army to revolt against its superior officers, and
besought its members to take counsel together upon the subject
of raising the funds necessary to discharge the arrears.

'• Meanwhile the troops maintained an ominous silence, hold-
ing no conversation with their former officers or with the

KEEL AND SADDLE.

citizens ; which conduct, so rare among French troops, occa-
sioned great uneasiness, and plunged the city into deep
despondency.

"Dalhousie at last received a message from the council,
informing him that they consented to supply the necessary
funds ; thus yielding to their fears what they had refused to
prayers.

" The division and brigade generals and other officers who
had been deprived of their 'commands,' having made trouble
by their efforts to bring the troops back to obedience, were
shut up in their quarters, and guarded. The citizens were at
last re-assured by the continued good order which prevailed
among the troops ; and the following ' order of the day ' was
issued : ' All goes well : the citizens have provided funds, and
the payments have commenced. (Signed) GARNISON.'

" The sobriquet of Gen. Gariiison was given to Dalhousie.
The secret instigators of the insurrection now saw that the
expected riot and bloodshed would not be inaugurated unless
they succeeded in exciting an entente among the troops : so
they sent a chasseur to the Place d'Armes to proclaim that
Gen. Rapp had attempted to smuggle money out of the
place ; and that, in consequence, he must be put to death as a
traitor. This effort was defeated. The troops imprisoned
their chief in order to carry out their plans ; but they harbored
no animosity against him. His reputation as a man of honor
remained intact, and his integrity was no more doubted than
his courage. -Such open provocation to murder excited distrust,
and the troops only became more circumspect. Similar efforts
to excite mobs among them failed of their desired effect, in-
cluding a direct attempt to assassinate the general.

" An event that occurred about the same time did much to
quiet the turbulently-disposed among the troops, and to dispose
them to return to order. The enemy's line received strong re-
enforcements, and sallied from its cantonments before the place,

KEEL AND SADDLE. 265

approaching the division in observation without the walls.
This apparent concert between the movements of the Austrians
and events within the city, which it would appear improbable
they could have been cognizant of, caused much speculation
among the garrison. Re-enforcements from the place were
sent to the outside division, and demonstrations made, which
had the effect of checking the hostile movements of the enemy.
It may be that the Austrians did not care to meet so redoubt-
able an enemy as the Army of the Rhine ; or perhaps they pre-
ferred to await the measures adopted by their partisans within
the walls. At any rate, the enemy returned to his original
position ; while the garrison continued, calmly and persistently,
to pursue its proposed end, — the payment of its arrears.
Strasburg presented a spectacle of perfect order in the midst
of disorder, and of severe discipline maintained in an army in
revolt. Dalhousie sent to Rapp a deputation, composed of the
sergeant-governor of the place and six general sergeants, which
was received by the general with some asperity. He pro-
nounced them the dupes of designing men, and unworthy to
wear the French uniform. Their spokesman told Count Rapp
that it was true they were in revolt ; but that the rest of the
armies had been paid off, and they only asked for their just
dues, — the poor pittance for all their sacrifices of blood and risk
of life, and which was necessary to pay the expenses to their
homes. Rapp answered that he had represented their case to
the ministry, but that he was unable to procure more than the
four hundred thousand francs, which they were welcome to
divide among the different regiments. This they positively
declined, saying that the whole arrears must be liquidated.
The interview was ended by Gen. Rapp's ordering the
deputation from his presence, telling them he blushed at the
idea of holding further discussion with mutineers.

" It is my belief that Rapp was annoyed by the news that

23

266 KEEL AND SADDLE.

his compatriots, the Strasburgers, had yielded to fear what
he could not obtain from them by entreaty.

" At last the loan was effected, the paymasters received the
money, and the agitation subsided. Payments were made to
the troops in the usual form, which having been completed
during the night, the generate was again heard in the morn-
ing; and all the posts and guards were withdrawn from the
palace, while the whole garrison assembled on the square as
before. Gen. Garnison then read a proclamation addressed to
the soldiers of the Army of the Rhine, in which he compli-
mented them on their boldness in asserting their rights. This
boldness had compromised them with the civil and military
authorities ; but he said that no danger menaced any one in
consequence, save the sub-officers, who had controlled the
revolt in order that equal justice might be done to all. He
then appealed to them to preserve good order and discipline, in
order that the sub-officers might have immunity from punish-
ment. It was then announced, that having served with honor,
having received their pay in full, and being Frenchmen, they
must deliver up their horses, arms, and government-stores, and
submit themselves to the orders of the king.

"The sergeant-general, Dalhousie, then ordered the two
divisions of infantry, the cavalry, and artillery, to defile before
him ; and conducted the whole force to the prefecture, where
white standards were distributed to the regiments. The
troops then returned to their barracks and to the authority
of their officers, who immediately repaired to the palace to
tender their congratulations to their general, Count Bapp.

" Dalhousie was there present ; and the general generously
gave him a pardon in consideration of the order and discipline
he had preserved while the army was in revolt. I am entirely
ignorant of his after-life. Thus ended a mutiny without prece-
dent in our military annals. I h;ive never thought it was
instigated by the Austrians ; for they had no motive for so

KEEL AND SADDLE. 267

doing. The Bourbons were in Paris, the emperor a fugitive,
and foreign diplomats were at the moment making out the
new map of humiliated France. A plot against the life
of Rapp seems yet more improbable. Austria, it is true, might
have desired to occupy Strasburg temporarily ; but the advan-
tage would hardly have compensated for the sanguinary com-
bat sure to have been provoked by an attempt in that direc-
tion. No : it appears to me more simple and natural to look
upon the whole affair as an explosion, a revindication, per-
fectly legal in principle, made by men who could not be
supposed to possess great regard for the unknown power which
had changed their colors, and which, to fill up the measure
of its impolicy, wished to disarm without paying them. This
would have been too great an humiliation for men who had
performed their duties so well, and who kept aloof from the
politics of the day.

"In my opinion, the revolt was inevitable, under all the
circumstances of the case ; but we must admire the dis-
cipline which triumphed over all its imminent peril, and se-
cured to its leaders an almost glorious impunity. All this
illustrated the excellent spirit which distinguishes our sub-offi-
cers and soldiers, and which permits them to respect a substi-
tution of power impossible in aristocratic armies."

In thanking the chef ' de bataillon for his narration, we both
agreed that the mutiny of Strasburg could never have taken
place in any other army than the French without degenerating
into a scene of fearful license and demoralization ; and we
separated for the night, with an offer from the old officer to
introduce us on the next morning to another institution of the
French army.

This was the doyenne of those very useful ladies, the can-
tinieres, then at the depot of the fourth of the line, — Ma-
dame Therese Jourdan, veuve Patru, at that time ninety-five
years old, who, notwithstanding her great age, suffered no par-

268 KEEL AND SADDLE.

ticular infirmity, enjoying all her mental and physical facul-
ties. She had entered that regiment as cantiniere when four-
teen, and had never since quitted it. Her husband, Capt.
Patru, was killed at Lutzen ; and after his death she had
resumed the bidon, which she had retained until about three
years before we saw her, her great age no longer permitting
her to serve la, goutte to the soldiers. She enjoyed a small
pension, contributed by the officers of the fourth, in gratitude
for her services to the regiment. These services had been
meritorious and extensive indeed ; for she had been an eye-
witness of all the great scenes recorded in the history of the
armies of the republic and of the first empire.

XXXV.

-OETUBNING home in 1860, one of the last of those o
JL\ whom I took leave in Paris was Major Philip Kearny.
" You return," said he, " to take part in a long and sangui-
nary civil war. The men of the South will consent to no other
solution of the questions at issue. For years they have ac-
customed themselves to the idea of an inevitable collision in
defence of what they regard as their constitutional rights, as
set forth in the pestilential doctrines and impracticable theo-
ries of Calhoun. Abstractions they certainly are; but the
South will expend all their strength and wealth in their sup-
port. The politicians, both North and South, have so com-
plicated the affairs of the nation for their own personal ends,
that they cannot be adjusted by peaceful measures. The
Gordian knot must be cut by the sword. Ignorant of the art
of war in all its varied aspects as are the Northern people;
despising every trained soldier as a charlatan ; easily imposed
upon by the most ignorant pretender to skill and experience
in our profession, as they must necessarily be, owing to their
lack of military education and exercises, — I have still a pre-
sentiment that they will emerge victoriously from the contest.
I know the Southern people well. I acknowledge, that, man
for man, of the two peoples — for we are now two distinct
peoples — they are the best soldiers : still, I know, that, in the
administration of public affairs, there is nothing practical about
them. In the end, their warlike energies will be wasted in

23* 269

270 KEEL AND SADDLE.

the field from sheer ignorance of business-matters, such as the
commissariat and its innumerable details ; and hence they will
gain nothing by the superior martial qualities of their soldiers,
which are undeniable. Go! You will be on the winning
side ; and I shall soon be with you on the other side of the At-
lantic. Somehow we will be triumphant ; and, should we live
to the end of a three or four years' war, we shall see the coun-
try settled on a new basis, stronger and more united than
ever."

I quote these words of Kearny to show the prevailing senti-
ment among the old officers of the army and navy as to the
result of the political imbroglio, and the probable duration of
the war. The people of the North could not or would not
then believe that any danger was threatened to themselves by
the state of public affairs, and to the last hour went on with
their business and social enjoyments in perfect confidence that
they would be left undisturbed to pursue the even tenor of
their way. They were confirmed in this security by the poli-
ticians intrusted with the government, who assured their con-
stituents that there would be no war, or a very little one ; and,
thus re-assured, they kept on in their usual avocations with
all the absorbing devotion to affairs that distinguishes our
countrymen. The conspiracy grew and strengthened in the
Southern States; while the imbecility of the administration
encouraged the secessionists to perfect all their plans for a
vast insurrection, until the attack on Fort Sumter aroused the
sleeping North to a sense of the real condition of national
affairs.

All this has become a part of our annals ; and I shall con-
fine myself to what I saw and experienced in the momentous
events that succeeded the direct attack by the Southern con-
spirators upon the nation's life, and the consequent uprising
of the Northern people. Stimulated by the attitude of the
North, the administration resorted to feeble and uncertain

KEEL AND SADDLE. 271

measures for defence, while continuing to assure the world,
through the medium of the State department, that the war
would be but a trivial affair of sixty or ninety days at farthest.
How weak and contemptible these measures were was illus-
trated in the hastily-equipped and undisciplined military mob
which met its final discomfiture at Bull Bun. This disgrace-
ful affair, however, made it plain to the North that the men of
the South were in terrible earnest ; that soldiers enlisted for
three months' service were incompetent to check the insurrec-
tion ; and that the much-vaunted militia-system could not be
relied upon to furnish either officers or soldiers for regular war-
fare. This latter national institution broke down at once, for
the sufficient reason that it was impossible to mobilize it for
service, although the people had been told by militia generals
and Fourth-of-July orators, from the time of the Revolution,
that it was perfect as a system of military defence. This was
believed, because it is pleasant to imagine that we are all citi-
zen-soldiers, subject to no such requisitions upon our time and
personal service as are made in other countries, intended to
familiarize the population with the rudiments of the military
art, notwithstanding the same expedient had been tested and
failed in 1812 and 1846.

True, the same system prevailed at the South ; but it must
be remembered, that, in that section, there flourished a higher
martial spirit ; for in the war with Mexico, fourteen years be-
fore, the Southern States furnished more than forty thousand
men to the general service, while only about half that number
was contributed by the more populous North.

The danger was imminent, and must be met ; and, instead
of a useless domestic military organization, a system still more
objectionable was adopted, — that of volunteer regiments in
sufficient number to fill the quotas of the several States, offi-
cered by persons selected, not for their professional skill or
experience, but according to the pecuniary aid they could ren-

272 KEEL AND SADDLE.

der in raising and equipping recruits, or their political influence.
Men, material of war, and money, were lavishly offered : for
the people had said to themselves, " This sort of thing must
stop ; " and they far outran the government in war-spirit and
determination.

Like others of my countrymen, I had already offered my
services to the General Government ; but was assured they
would not be required, as no increase of the navy was contem-
plated. Having passed the age at which my enlistment as a
private soldier could be legally permitted, and feeling bound
to aid my country to the extent of my ability in the trials she
was about to enter upon, after having been educated to the
profession of arms in her service, I tendered my service to the
governor of the State of my residence, and was appointed
colonel of the Seventh New-Jersey Volunteer Infantry.

I joined my regiment at Trenton, and was mustered into
the army " for three years or the war " on the 31st August,
1861 ; entering upon my duties immediately at the camp near
that place. Recruits came rapidly in, all men of the best
class, — young, patriotic, and athletic, principally from the agri-
cultural districts, — and all eager to begin their new career, and
to acquire a knowledge of the duties of a soldier. They were
far superior to those who enlisted at a subsequent date, when
the highest bounties could attract to the service only inferior
material. These men seemed to be conscious that they must
take the affairs of the country into their own hands in order
to retain their liberties, as well as to repel the charge of neg-
lect of their honor which had been made against them.

My ranks were soon filled up to the maximum strength ;
and in less than a month we arrived in Washington, and en-
camped on Meridian Hill. Instruction now began in earnest ;
and in a few weeks I had the satisfaction of seeing my raw
recruits transformed into tolerably proficient soldiers. I
applied at once the principles of discipline I had learned in a

KEEL AND SADDLE. 273

hard school — the United-States navy — firmly and uncom-
promisingly ; as I knew, that, once taught, they would never
be forgotten. No fault was condoned or pardoned ; but certain
punishment, swiftly and surely applied, followed every infrac-
tion of the rules established for the government of the army.
In a very short time the men understood this : and the result
was eminently satisfactory; for punishment ceased almost
entirely. It was very hard for these young men to stand
sentinel for eight hours together with loaded knapsacks, to be
made " living statuary " on a pork-barrel for a pedestal, and
to endure other penalties known to military discipline ; but
the lessons of such experience were lasting, and the recruit
who had once gone through the course enjoyed immunity
ever afterwards. The general condition of the army at this
time was deplorable ; and the large force collected, although
of excellent raw material, but little better than a mere mob.
Desertion was a common occurrence among officers as well as
soldiers ; and the streets of Washington were filled with per-
sons in uniform, who, by their reckless behavior, evinced not
only total disregard of military discipline, but also of the
claims of respectability, and even decency.

Of the regular officers of the army, few had ever seen a
whole regiment together in the field ; while their knowledge
of garrison-duty was acquired in some frontier post in the Far
West, or a fort occupied by two or three companies. Gen.
McClellan was charged with reducing this mass of heteroge-
neous elements to order; and he accomplished his task in
about three months, converting the mob into an efficient and
disciplined army. When he assumed command in the sum-
mer of 1861, the troops in and around Washington consisted
of about fifty thousand infantry, seven hundred cavalry, and
six hundred artillerymen, with thirty guns ; while their only
organization was the same defective one of "provisional bri-
gades " as at Bull Run. There was literally no nucleus of

274 KEEL AND SADDLE.

regulars to form upon ; for the army had been utterly disor-
ganized by secession. It was necessary, therefore, to begin ab
iniiioj to form an army on a scale which the nation had never
dreamed of. To say that McClellan acquitted himself cred-
itably in this colossal work is to accord him scant justice : for
the fact is, that his achievement was one which entitles him to
a place in the first rank of soldiers ; and its excellent results
were apparent in the army up to its final dissolution.

He at once established a stringent police-system, applying
it to all ranks ; sent inefficient and objectionable officers before
boards of examination ; instituted a course of instruction ; and
kept the troops in their respective camps and posts. Grand
guards and picket-duty was regularly performed ; and, in
course of time, the troops offered a creditable spectacle to the
military critic. Without dwelling on this subject, let it suf-
fice to say, that, at the end of three months, McClellan found
himself at the head of an efficient army of a hundred thou-
sand infantry, ten thousand cavalry, and twelve thousand ar-
tillerymen, with five hundred guns. There was, besides, an
engineer-corps with pontoon and wagon trains, conducted by
competent officers of the quartermaster and commissary de-
partments ; and the ordnance was abundantly supplied with
reserve ammunition and supply-trains. This bare statement
of the enormous amount of labor achieved in an incredibly
short space of time hardly conveys an adequate idea of its
proportions, except to practical military men ; and, for this
reason, McClellan's reputation is higher abroad than at home.
What I have summed up here by no means comprises all this
intelligent officer's labors in the period named ; for a system
of defences was planned and executed under his direction, by
which Washington was completely covered from attack, the
works forming a line of circumvallation over thirty-three
miles in extent. These earthworks — consisting of detached
and engaged fortifications connected with curtains, provided

KEEL AND SADDLE. 275

with bastions, redoubts, and wide ditches — were armed with
heavy cannon, and were estimated for a garrison of seventy
thousand men. Later they saved the capital from capture
by the confederates, and permitted Grant to keep a tight
grasp upon the throat of the waning insurrection before
Petersburg, without weakening his army by detaching troops
for the defence of Washington.

In point of discipline and organization, the Army of the
Potomac made no improvement under the successors of Mc-
Clellan, although it achieved more decisive results in the
field : and we have the emphatic declaration of the most illus-
trious of them, — Meade, — that, " had there been no Mc-
Clellan, there could have been no Grant ; for the former
fashioned the weapons with which the work was performed."

At this point I have thought it best to close the record of
my military service. The career of the Army of the Poto-
mac is matter of history ; and I could add little to the nume-
rous and detailed accounts of its sufferings and its triumphs.
But there is another and more potent reason which bids me
pause here. I could not tell the story of my connection with
that army with the judicial impartiality which should charac-
terize the historian and the narrator of grave events. I
could not withhold denunciation of incompetency and per-
fidy. I could not write of the first two years of the war with-
out giving utterance to righteous indignation, aroused by the
wickedness of men in high places, which hampered the
army, and protracted the civil strife far beyond its necessary
limits.

I served in the army until after the battle of Chancellors-
ville, participating in all its important engagements, and, the
greater part of the time, commanding a brigade. At the battle
above named, I was an involuntary witness of an event which
had an important bearing on the issue of the war, and which
has been the subject of prolonged controversy. I refer to the

276 KEEL AND SADDLE.

death of Stonewall Jackson. The circumstances under which
I acquired the right to give testimony in the matter were some-
what remarkable ; and I here give a full statement of them.

The left of my brigade-line lay near the plank-road at Chan-
cellorsville ; and, after night had fallen, I rode forward, ac-
cording to my invariable habit, to inspect my picket-line. The
moon had risen, and partially illuminated the woods. I began
my inspection on the right of the picket-line, progressing grad-
ually to the left, where I stopped to rectify the post of a sentinel
not far from the plank-road. While thus engaged, I heard the
sound of hoofs from the direction of the enemy's line, and
paused to listen. Soon a cavalcade appeared approaching us.
The foremost horseman detached himself from the main body,
which halted not far from us, and, riding cautiously nearer,
seemed to try to pierce the gloom. He was so close to us, that
the soldier nearest me levelled his rifle for a shot at him ; but I
forbade him, as I did not wish to have our position revealed ;
and it would have been useless to kill the man, whom I judged
to be a staff-officer making a reconnoissance.

Having completed his observations, this person rejoined the
group in his rear, and all returned at a gallop. The clatter of
hoofs soon ceased to be audible ; and the silence of the night
was unbroken, save by the melancholy cries of the whippoorwill,
which were heard in one continued wail, like spirit-voices;
when the horizon was lighted up by a sudden flash in the
direction of the enemy, succeeded by the well-known rattle of
a volley of musketry from at least a battalion. A second volley
quickly followed the first ; and I heard cries in the same direc-
tion.

Fearing that some of our troops might be in that locality,
and that there was danger of our firing upon friends, I left my
orderly, and rode towards the confederate lines.

A riderless horse dashed past me towards our lines ; and I
reined up in presence of a group of several persons gathered

KEEL AND SADDLE. 277

around a man lying on the ground, apparently badly wounded.
I saw at once that these were confederate officers, and visions
of the Libby began to flit through my mind ; but reflecting
that I was well armed and mounted, and that I had on the
great-coat of a private soldier such as was worn by both par-
ties, I sat still, regarding the group in silence, but prepared to
use either my spurs or my sabre, as occasion might demand.

The silence was broken by one of the confederates, who ap-
peared to regard me with astonishment : then, speaking in a
tone of authority, he ordered me to " ride up there and see what
troops those were," indicating the rebel position. I instantly
made a gesture of assent, and rode slowly in the direction indi-
cated, until out of sight of the group ; then made a circuit round
it, and returned within my own lines. Just as I had answered
the challenge of our picket, the section of our artillery posted
on the plank-road began firing ; and I could plainly hear the
grape crashing through the trees near the spot occupied by the
group of confederate officers.

About a fortnight afterwards, I saw a Richmond newspaper
at the camp at Falmouth, in which were detailed the circum-
stances of the death of Stonewall Jackson. These left no doubt
in my own mind that the person I had seen lying on the
ground was that officer, and that his singular prediction —
mentioned previously in these pages — had been verified.

The following is an extract from the newspaper account : —

" Gen. Jackson, having gone some distance in front of his
line on Saturday evening, was returning about eight o'clock,
attended by his staff. The cavalcade was, in the darkness,
mistaken for a body of the enemy's cavalry, and fired on by a
regiment of his own corps."

Then, after detailing what took place after the general fell
from his horse, the account proceeds : —

" The turnpike was utterly deserted, with the exception of
Capts. Wilbourn and Wynn ; but, in the skirting of thicket on
24

278 KEEL AND SADDLE.

the left, some person was observed by the side of the wood,
sitting his horse motionless and silent. The unknown indi-
vidual was clad in a dark dress, which strongly resembled
the federal uniform ; but it seemed impossible that he could
have penetrated to that spot without being discovered, and
what followed seemed to prove that he belonged to the con-
federates. Capt. Wilbourn directed him to ride up there
and see what troops those were, — the men who fired on Jack-
son; and the stranger rode slowly in the direction pointed
out, but never returned with any answer. Who this silent
personage was is left to posterity," &c. — Richmond Enquirer,
May 12, 1863.

Jackson's death happened in strange coincidence with his
horoscopic prediction made years before : but the coincidence
was, I believe, merely fortuitous ; and I mention it here only
to show what mysterious " givings-out " we sometimes experi-
ence in life.

PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

279

PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

AFTER the disastrous repulse of Burnside before the
confederate works at Fredericksburg, the Army of the
Potomac returned to its cantonments in Stafford County, Va. ;
and the work of its re-organization began under Hooker, who
had succeeded to the command only to repeat the blunders of
his predecessor at Chancellorsville.

The place chosen for the winter encampment of the army
was a cul de sac between the embouchures of the Potomac and
the Rappahannock ; which rivers formed the two sides of a tri-
angle, of which it was necessary to guard the base only to be
perfectly safe from an attack. The disadvantage of the position
was, that the army could not leave it without crossing the wide
and deep Rappahannock, the fords of which were all carefully
guarded by the vigilant enemy.

The country north and east of Fredericksburg was guarded
by a strong picket-force of our troops, extending from the
Rappahannock to the Potomac ; while our cavalry patrolled its
front for twenty miles along the left bank of the former river.

Picket-duty was performed in turn by detachments from all
the corps of the army, comprising a brigade of infantry ; and
a general commanded the whole grand guard, whose temporary
headquarters were at a farm-house a few hundred yards to the
rear of the line.

Fires, and smoking even, being forbidden while on picket-

24* 281

282 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

duty at the advanced posts, a pipe was invented by some in-
genious soldier, the muzzle of which was turned down, instead
of upward, as in ordinary pipes ; and, this being covered, no
fire was visible to any person in the vicinity of the smoker.
These were called picket-pipes ; and were skilfully carved by
the men from laurel-roots, and from a soft white stone com-
mon in that region.

The farmhouse mentioned was resorted to by the loungers on
picket-duty ; and beneath its roof many a thrilling tale of ad-
venture on the debatable ground in our front, travelled in
every direction by our scouts and outpost patrols, and those
of the enemy, was told to eager hearers.

Story-telling is a favorite amusement both of soldiers and
sailors in their idle moments; and a skilful narrator is sure of
attentive and interested listeners in such an audience, espe-
cially if he relates his own personal experiences, as not un-
commonly happens.

I have often regretted that I did not take notes of many
" yarns " I have thus heard from the lips of some who possessed
the talent of story-telling not inferior to that of the Eastern
professional raconteurs I have often seen in the coffee-houses of
the Levant, whose language I could not understand, but whose
graceful and vivid pantomime could hardly be misinterpreted.

One fine moonlight night at my headquarters, during my
turn of duty on picket, a group of officers were enjoying their
pipes, when it was proposed to vary the evening's amusements
by story-telling, — it being stipulated that each one should
draw upon his own experience for his material ; and, the party
being tired of euchre and other games, the proposition was
received with universal favor.

As in military councils and court-martials, the youngest was
deputed to speak first; and a young lieutenant of artillery
accordingly began, with the usual apologies of youth and
inexperience, as follows : —

THE LIEUTENANT'S STORY.

~T~ IKE most of my comrades in the volunteer army, I was
, I J not brought up to the military profession, hut adopted it
under pressure of the times which have found us all so un-
prepared. Indeed, I may say that I never have thought seri-
ously of adopting any career involving great trials, hazards,
and privations ; least of all, the army.

After finishing my education, I passed the time as agree-
ably as I could at home and abroad, without a thought that my
idling was ever to end, or our country to be disturbed in its
seeming ease and quietude.

Only the year before the breaking-out of this war, being in
Paris, I lodged at the Hotel de Bade on the Italian Boulevard,
where I met persons of an entirely different class from those
who frequent those caravanceras in which Americans delight
to spend their time and their apparently inexhaustible sup-
plies of ready money, without, I fear, receiving in return a
quid pro quo, in most cases.

Strange to say, I had never, as yet, witnessed a scene said
to be the gayest in the world, and which every one who visits
the rollicking French capital is familiar with from the start,
stranger or Frenchman, although I had been for several years
an habitue of Paris.

The truth is, I had most agreeable society at my command,
and cared not to resort to public amusements to pass away
time, then of some value to me, employed as I was in acquir-

283

284 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

ing educational and social information, varied by amusements
peculiar to the French people, but hardly appreciated by for-
eigners. Shall I say that the latter are hardly sufficiently
advanced in civilization to profit by the advantages alluded to?
the majority, at least, of those who visit France in the capacity
of ordinary tourists.

I had heard among my acquaintances that intrigue of the
old sort — that of which we read in works of fiction and the
like — was dead at present in Paris, and that new fashions
had taken place of the old modes, not only in dress, but in
manners.

It was, then, simple curiosity, or that indefinable feeling
which moves us toward any thing unknown or mysterious, that
impelled my steps to the Rue Lepelletier, to witness, for the
first time, the great bal d' opera. I entered the salle soon
after its opening at midnight. I was in plain evening-dress,
and, of course, unmasked ; and strolled about for some hours,
amused and diverted by the motley scenes around me, the
grotesqueness of the maskers, and the vigorous and exagger-
ated style of the dancers, — whole quadrilles seeming to have
lost their senses.

Soon wearying of these gymnastics, imported from the Latin
quarter, and that of Breda, I strolled out into the lobby.

At the door I was detained by a crowd of revellers ; and on
the domino of one of them — a female masker — my button
became so entangled, that it was necessary to tear it (the fabric)
in order to extricate ourselves. The fair mask herself gave
me the needed assistance, and endured the tearing of the rich
texture without a protest, as if it were indifferent to her. I
had already seen enough of the ball. The mien of the masker
interested me. We exchanged a few words, which convinced
me of her intelligence ; and, willing to be amused, I finished
by offering my arm, which was accepted with nonchalance,
rather unpropitious, I thought, for the perfection of a better
acquaintance.

THE LIEUTENANT'S STORY. 285

We finally took seats in a cabinet occupied by a few couples,
who seemed entirely too much interested in their own affairs
to desire to interfere with our privacy. For my part, I im-
agined that my fair partner was of that large and influential
class in Paris whose proverbial extravagance and " speed "
have won for them a name of which I could never see the
aptness, — the " half-world."

I could now examine at leisure the appearance of my com-
panion, so far as it was not concealed by her mask and the
folds of her domino. I could see that she was tall and slen-
der, and that her movements were undulating and full of
grace. Her toilet was admirable, although severely simple.
Her domino was of black satin, the camail trimmed with ex-
quisite lace, — the fairy net which had caught me at first, —
and her mask of the same, with a thick barbe, through which
I could see neither her hair, nor even the tint of her com-
plexion.

She was irreproachably gantee, and her small feet delicately
shod with slippers that might have been worn by Cinderella.
Her air was that of a woman, not of the half, but of the whole
world, who was accustomed to good society, and unfamiliar
with these assemblies. We began to converse ; and, to my
astonishment, I found that my name and country were not
unknown to her. However, I would deny neither : indeed, I
saw it would have been useless.

The lady knew me, as the saying is, " like a book," and
sketched my character and some of the incidents of my life ;
urged me to correct certain faults she pointed out to me, and
of whose existence I was fully conscious ; and, in short, gave me
most excellent advice, without inflicting a single wound on
my amour propre.

Every trace of hesitation and apathy soon disappeared ; and
she showed such sagacity, such refinement, such delicacy of
expression and of feeling, that I was stupefied.

286 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

Gliding from topic to topic, she passed in review society,
literature, the opera, and the publicists of the day, relating
many anecdotes apropos of each, and uttering the most spar-
kling witticisms with a grace of attitude and manner quite
irresistible.

Dazzled by such brilliancy, I kept silence, and merely list-
ened in delighted wonder.

" Is it possible that I do not know you, — you who know me
so well ? " I said at length, impatient of my enforced passive-
ness in our tete-a-tete.

" You do not know me, I assure you," returned the mask.
" If I should show you my face, you would see it for the first
time."

"Where, then, have you learned what you have revealed to
me ? Are you a sorceress ? "

"Perhaps; or I may have divined what I have said to you
by my knowledge of human nature. Do you fancy yourself
the only object of my study ? "•

I did not dare to discuss the question ; and the demand gave
me no time to reply in fitting terms.

She changed the subject, opened a new chapter, and exhib-
ited herself under a new face. Never did chameleon change
more quickly, or with better effect. Engrossed by the con-
versation, I heeded not the jests of the passers, nor replied to
several direct attacks by the merry maskers ; and, when the
last harlequin and pierrot retired arm in arm, was startled to
hear an intimation that the ball had closed, and that it was
necessary for us to withdraw.

" Already I " exclaimed my new acquaintance.

We had been talking for five hours.

" Permit me to see you home ? " I said.

" Impossible ! "

" Shall I never see you again ? "

« I will think of it."

THE LIEUTENANT'S STORY. 287

" You will not tell me who you are ? "

She made a gesture of negation.

" Ah, cruel one ! you take possession of me, turn my head,
and then ahandon me as a child throws away a toy of which
he is weary. Well, I shall not submit. I will follow you,
learn who you are, and force you to avow yourself, to receive
me, to love me. After such a delightful evening as we have
passed together, I cannot look forward to indifference and
oblivion between us. Decide, then, and accept my escort, or
I will force it upon you ! Come, decide ! "

" You would not do that, I am sure ; but, if you did, I should
succeed in evading you. On the contrary, you must leave me
here free, and give your word of honor not to seek to know
me, or who I am : in that case, I will make you two conces-
sions greater than you could have hoped for; although, indeed,
I had long since resolved to grant them when you had earned
them."

" What are they ? "

" I will return here next Saturday ; and I will give you my
portrait until then. You can look at it when I am no longer
near you. Do you consent ? "

I made her repeat thrice the promise to return. I received
from her hand a card photograph in a sealed and perfumed
envelope ; and, such was my eagerness to behold the linea-
ments hidden by the mask, that I rushed towards a gas-
burner, and tore open the envelope. The original took advan-
tage of my movement, and disappeared in the dense crowd
hastening towards the entrance of the opera. After a hasty
glance at the portrait, I returned to the spot where I had left
my companion ; but she was already gone, and a search for
her would have been hopeless.

I went to the Cafe Cardinal on the Boulevard, and drew
forth my picture again. I was stupefied by my good fortune.
The portrait represented a most lovely and bewitching face and

288 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

form, — a poet's dream. " Thanks to Minerva and to Venus ! " I
said under my breath. Such a divine face, and such an
intellect ! I could hardly believe it possible ; yet here was
the ocular proof. Like a miser, I bore my treasure home, and
tried to sleep. I could not. I gazed again and again at the
beautiful face, recalled the five hours that had sped so quickly,
and decided that I could not wait a week to see my inamorata.
I must discover her immediately, or lose my senses.

You may laugh, gentlemen, but most of you know not the
fierce ebullitions of the sang Gaulois in the veins of a youth
of nineteen. Now, indeed, I should patiently wait for the
rendezvous a week, perhaps a fortnight.

Next morning, taking with me the precious photograph, I
visited three somnambulists and two clairvoyants. Each told
me a different story, and sent me in different directions to
search for my mysterious beauty. I must try again. The
card I received did not bear the name of the photographer ;
but it must have been made at some one of the several
fashionable establishments of Paris. I visited them all.
First, Nadar. I had no eyes for the curiosities and marvels
assembled in his atelier, which is one of the sights of Paris ;
no admiration for any other beauties than those of my mis-
tress. I drew out my carte de visite ; asked the master
whether it was his work, and whether he could name the
original of the picture, or give me any other information
concerning it.

" Monsieur," said the artist, " if I made this portrait, and
did not sign it, as is my usual custom, I must have done so for
especial reasons : if I did not make it, I have no right to
claim the merit of its production. You understand ? I regret
to say that I cannot reply to your question. As to naming the
person you desire to know, that would be still more out of the
question. We are a sort of father-confessors, we photographers,
and never reveal the secrets confided to us. I am indeed de-

THE LIEUTENANT'S STORY. 289

sole that I cannot oblige you ; but a little reflection will con-
vince you that I am quite in the line of duty."

From Disderi, from Ken, from Dagron, I received the same
answer in substance ; and my visits to other establishments
had no more encouraging results. I went home in despair.

Where or to whom should I address myself for a solution
of the mystery ? After some hours of perplexity, I applied
to an intimate friend, who finally introduced me to a gentle-
man distinguished for his perspicacity and intelligence, and
who knew his Paris a fond. My friftnd informed me that
this person's sagacity amounted almost to the Scottish gift
of second-sight, while his amiability was proverbial.

My researches in different directions had occupied all the
intervening days ; so that it was on the last day before the bal
d' opera that I met this gentleman, by appointment, at the
Cafe Foy.

He heard my story to the end without saying a word,
only looking meditatively at the famous swallow, painted by
Horace Vernet on the ceiling of that celebrated restaurant,
for some time ; and then the oracle spoke : —

" Go to the rendezvous to-morrow ; and, as soon as you see
your domino, say to her, ' It pleases me : I am enchanted with
it. Present me. ' ':

Here was another enigma for my already puzzled imagina-
tion ; but in vain I entreated my Mentor for an explanation.

" I will be at the ball," said he. " I will wait in box number
twenty at precisely three hours after midnight. Come then,
and tell me the effect you have produced, and you shall know
all."

I was forced to be content with this direction and assurance,
and retired from the interview with grave doubts as to the
faith of my friend.

Saturday, midnight, the hour for the opening of the masked
ball at the opera, came at last, finding me punctually at my

25

290 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

post, eagerly looking for the black domino. I must have had
a very distrait air ; for I was honored by many comments by
the crowd, which I thought very ill timed. It seemed as if
a tawdry sultana, who seemed to have marked me for her
particular prey, would never cease persecuting me.

At last I caught sight of the sheen of satin, and of a tall,
graceful figure, which could belong to no other than my
domino noir. Parting brusquely from my Oriental houri, I
advanced towards her, grasped her hand, and led her aside
with a palpitating heart.

I quite forgot the enigmatical phrase I had been instructed
to utter; and it only occurred to me when she announced to me
her intention of retiring early from the ball.

Hoping to retain her by these words, which I imagined to
be a sort of " Open sesame," I repeated them to her. The lady
was evidently surprised, complete woman of the world though
she was. She made a movement as if embarrassed, but re-
mained silent for a few moments.

" I do not comprehend you," said she in a troubled voice.

" You seem, on the contrary, to comprehend me admirably ; "
much better, I thought mentally, than I comprehend myself.
" What is your reply ? "

The answer was confused and hesitating : it rendered
matters more obscure between us than ever: and soon after, in
a place where the dense crowd hardly permitted individuals to
be distinguished, the lady wound suddenly, like a hare, through
the groups, and disappeared.

I was eager to have all this explained, as you may suppose ;
and hastened to box number twenty, where I found my friend
and guide in the ever-changing and mysterious kaleidoscope
called Paris.

I believed that I had lost my inamorata forever, and was
somewhat inclined to reproach him as the cause, even while
imploring him to conceal nothing from me if he did not wish

THE LIEUTENANT'S STORY. 291

me to become an inmate of Charenton. His coolness provoked
me.

" My dear young friend," said he, " I was not mistaken, as
you have seen ; and you shall be enlightened on the situation
without further suspense.

" The woman who captivated you was neither more nor less
than a marriage-broker. She has a commission (among others)
to unite a poor young girl to a rich young man. She has intel-
lect : the girl has beauty. She begins the spell of fascination
in person, wearing a mask ; for, notwithstanding her elegant
figure, I will lay a heavy wager she is old and wrinkled : the
face will finish the work. By the aid of love for beauty in the
abstract, you could have been so blinded to the deception, that
the affair would have gone on until it was too late to withdraw.
That is the whole mystery. I suspected it at once from your
story. No girl of sixteen, such as that portrait represents, could
have the skill and knowledge of the world of your siren. I ad-
vised you to apply the test ; and it has succeeded. You may
now imagine what these women of the world, disappointed as
to matrimony, are capable of.

" I once knew a certain countess who possessed two or three
chef d'oeuvres of art. She lay in wait for amateurs, inti-
mating her possession of these treasures, and her desire to sell
them. When they came to view them at her apartments, she
received them charmingly, and showed the pictures skilfully dis-
posed in a dim light. Then, accidentally as it were, she intro-
duced them to a magnificent creature, who looked her part as
well as the countess played hers. She often failed, of course,
and results were not always what she hoped for ; but, if the plan
succeeded once or twice, her profit was considerable.

" Your domino belongs to this school. Thank Heaven ! your
eyes have been opened before it is too late. Believe me, I am
sufficiently rewarded if I have succeeded in unmasking this
daring imposture j and you will, I know, do me the favor to

292 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

warn other possible victims of this one of the many snares
that beset their paths.

" It would be very disagreeable to a worthy man to find that
he was married to a pretty fool, when he thought he had
secured both beauty and intellect in the same person."

The Mentor then took his leave, and I suddenly came upon
the intimate friend I have already mentioned. I was now com-
pletely cured of my illusion, and warmly thanked him for an
introduction to so clear-headed and sagacious a man as he who
had just left us. " Ah ! " said my friend, " he is indeed sur-
prising in his wits, and has the most superb sang-froid I ever
saw in mortal man. Last summer, at Baden, I had played
heavily, and lost so much that serious consequences threatened,
which rendered me more desperate. Your friendly adviser was
in the cursal, looking on with his usual imperturbability. At
last I was reduced to a single louis, and turned to him madly,
demanding his advice where to bet my last coin. " My friend,"
answered he gravely, " as you ask me as your friend, I can only
answer the appeal by advising you to — put it in your pocket."

At the close of the lieutenant's story, few comments were
made. The denoument was rather unexpected to his audi-
tors, most of whom were scarcely well enough informed to
appreciate so peculiar a phase of life in the most refined
capital of the world.

The puffing of the pipes alone indicated that many of the
company were not napping ; although the story had produced
a soporific effect in a few cases.

An artillery-officer of the regular army was the next volun-
teer raconteur in our nocturnal confabulations. A section of
his battery lay not far in our rear ; and he had strolled to our
biovouac that night in quest of amusement, and to escape from
the monotony of his camp.

We will entitle his narrative

THE ARTILLERY- OFFICER'S STORY.

I AM a graduate of the United-States Military Academy at
West Point, and a Virginian by birth. It is likely that
most of the people of my native State would deem me recreant
to the land of my fathers, and an invader of the " sacred soil."
But I think that true patriotism consists in something broader
than one's obligation to any single State of our glorious Union,
and can very well support the odium, if any justly falls upon
me. I have never believed the mad doctrines of Calhoun and
his followers, who have succeeded in shifting the theatre of war
from their own States to poor old Virginia, who now endures
its terrors and devastations. Neither do I approve of the con-
duct of many of my former brother-officers in raising sacrilegious
hands to destroy the fairest fabric of human government ever
devised by man, and thus violating their military oaths.

But I will not detain you, gentlemen, by entering into a dis-
cussion upon the merits or demerits of the two great parties
now contending for the mastery in this our fair aud great
country, but will enter at once upon my story.

Fifteen years ago I was at the Military Academy, in the
lowest class ; of which Leonard Mason was also a member.
Our parents resided in Williamsburg ; and it so happened that
we entered the institution at the same time.

The life of most men, let us hope, is brighter at its close than
at its beginning, emerging from the grossness and cruelty of
the schoolboy and the passions of youth into the light of reason
and knowledge ; but he of whom I speak was not so fortunate.

25» 293

294 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

The height he reached was amidst thunder-clouds ; and the
road before him was no lighter, though his ascent was only
misty, and his starting-point lay open to the sun.

He was, indeed, a glorious boy, with spirits inexhaustible as
long as his pocket-money lasted ; and both spirits and money
were ever at the service of his friends. He was " too clever by
half " for the majority of his companions, and was snubbed and
bullied in consequence, but had a little knot of ardent admirers
all his own. Such is the lot of most wits at school, where prac-
tical jokes and drinking-songs are chiefly acceptable, and higher
kinds of humor are stigmatized by the all-degrading term " face-
tiousness."

" What may your name be ? " drawled a cadet corporal to
Leonard Mason shortly after his installation at the " Point "
as a raw " plebe ; " the question being an official one.

" It may be Sancho Panza ; but it isn't," replied the youth ;
and he was punished immediately after for the repartee.

He soon became popular among the cadets, however, by
reason of his many good qualities, — his generosity, activity,
and beauty, — a gift which prepossesses boys in favor of its
possessor, as it does the lowest classes and savages, in an
eminent degree.

I seem to see him now at " Bennie's," where every enemy
of the digestive organs had abode, " standing treat " to all
comers with a smile of welcome, or bounding over the plateau,
with his golden hair streaming in the wind, and his eyes lit up
with the light that glows from a happy heart.

Almost all Virginians are especially good at every thing in
the sporting way ; and their devotion to cards almost reaches
the dignity of a culte. Leonard Mason was emphatically a
son of the Old Dominion in this respect, and was also passion-
ately fond of every game of chance. He would have raffled off
his teeth if he could have got anybody to put in for them ; and
was constantly devising ways and means of evading the army-

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY. 295

regulations against gambling. He cut slips of paper, inscrib-
ing them with the names of running horses, on the eve of
every great race, for " sweep " purposes ; and, despite the strict
discipline to which we were subject, contrived to use them
secretly. If a pack of cards was discovered and confiscated,
Leonard was sure to have introduced them. He cut dice out
of India-rubber (to secure silence in playing), and invented
a hundred games with slate and pencil, for school-times.
Having secretly manufactured a cribbage-board, he was one
night engaged in that enticing game with a friend, after taps,
by the light of a tallow dip carefully veiled ; and so absorbed
were the two in their amusement, that they did not perceive
the approach of the " rounds." Suddenly they heard a terrible
voice above them, — " Two for his heels ! " for Leonard's adver-
sary had omitted to mark the knave ; and the " rounds " had
become so interested a spectator, that he couldn't help rectify-
ing the error. They were very much alarmed at the time ;
but Leonard Mason never took the incident, as did the other,
for a warning.

But " we all have our weak points," we all said ; and his is
the pleasure he takes in losing his own money, or in winning
other people's to spend it for their entertainment : and for
my part, when I look back, there were none whose companion-
ship I enjoyed more than that of Leonard Mason.

When we had climbed to the senior class, Mason had
grown graceful and handsome, and his many accomplishments
were fully recognized. It would have been impossible to
select a more deservedly popular man than he. He ex-
celled in his studies ; he was an excellent soldier, a fluent
speaker, a tolerable musician, a passable poet, a good cavalier,
an excellent pool-player ; and, in short, promised to become
one of those " admirable Oichtons " who from time to time
dart meteor-like athwart the academic course, and then dis-
appear, utterly lost in the darkness of the outer world.

296 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

In all our exercises and manly games, Leonard Mason was
pre-eminent among his fellows ; and often, as I saw him at the
finish, breathless, and with heightened color, his broad chest
rising and falling like a wave, I thought I had never seen a
more splendid specimen of young manhood. His sparkling
eyes, and honest, hearty laugh, inspired the belief that he was
one who would not slip or fall from honor even on the " turf"
itself. In our stolen pleasure-trips to Bennie's, or across the
river, he was always the leading spirit ; and at the former
place, where shakes the well-worn bagatelle-board on its
uncertain legs in the sanded parlor, his egg-flip and apple-
toddy were allowed to be the best. And where the lawn
slopes down to the river's edge, there he sang the songs we
loved to hear, such as suited careless youth. He was the soul
of all our jovial company. As we stole home to the cadet-
barracks after one of these nights out, and effected our en-
trance, I said, —

"You make the hours fly fast, Leonard: that's one
o'clock."

" The quarter to only, I'll bet a dollar," said he.

After our graduation, I gave a supper-party in honor of
the great event, at Delmonico's, in New York. Leonard Ma-
son did not arrive at the time appointed, and we sat down
without him ; for nobody waits on such occasions.

We began to talk of the absent, as the mode is ; and I,
thinking there could be no harm in a playful kick at such a
favorite, offered to lay a wager that Mason was detained by
cards.

" I wouldn't like to be his adversary," said one.

"Nor I his partner," said another, "lest Old Nick should
fly away with us with pardonable freedom ; for he has the
Devil's own luck."

"Yes; and the Devil's own play too," said a third
sulkily.

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICERS STORY. 297

"It doesn't keep him from the duns, at all events," added
the man next to me. " I dare say some pertinacious tailor is
waiting for him now on the staircase ; and that's what makes
him late, after all."

Much distressed by this news and the tone of these re-
marks, I requested further information. I learned that Ma-
son was not so popular as he used to be ; and since he left West
Point, some months before, had joined a fast set, to whom it
was supposed he had lost considerable sums ; was certainly in
pecuniary difficulties, and very much changed in manners
and appearance. Further information was cut short by the
entrance of Mason himself.

If I had not been expecting him, and no other, I doubt if I
should have known him, so altered was his person in a few
short months. His face was very pale and haggard ; his eyes
— brighter than ever — were set in deep, black circles; and
his clothes hung loosely on his limbs. He welcomed me
however, with all his old cordiality, and threw about the
arrows of his wit as usual: they were more barbed than of
old ; the sheet-lightning had become forked.

The conversation turned upon a graduate of the Military
Academy who had taken holy orders. The same fellow who
had complained of " the Devil's own play " announced his
intention of following the example.

"Strange," said Mason, "that such 'fast' men should
take holy orders ! and, still more singular, how rapid is the
metamorphosis ! The French prints, the gold-mounted whips,
the colored clothes, are sold at a frightful sacrifice ; and a
brand-new divine launched the next morning. What a pity
to throw away that exquisite taste of yours " — addressing
the man who had announced his intentions — "on the merest
black and white ! "

The latter had on a gay red necktie.

He said many things of this sort in a semi-savage manner

298 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

while drinking off glass after glass very rapidly. Some of
the company were not more backward either in retort or in
drinking ; and I was soon obliged to interfere in my capacity
as host.

" He said I was a greater fool than I looked ! "

"Who said so?" "So you are!" "Shame, shame!"
" Here's a lark ! " " Go it while you're young ! " and other
like expressions burst forth from every side ; until at last I
volunteered an opinion "free, gratis, for nothing," which
quelled them on the principle of counter-irritation, and ob-
tained for me a hearing.

" I am sure Mason will apologize for that remark of his,"
I said. " We are all old academy-friends ; and we have not
come here to discuss quarrels, but oysters and" —

" He called me — he called me," hiccoughed one, " a greater
fool than I looked ! "

" My dear fellow," said Mason, holding out his hand over
the table in the most affectionate manner, " I retract that
observation altogether : you are not such a fool as you look !
That every body knows ! "

The offended party endeavored to explain that he was per-
fectly satisfied ; and the party broke up amid shouts of laugh-
ter and in high good-humor.

We sallied into the streets.

" I have left a few men at my rooms to-night," said Mason ;
" and, if you will join them in a game at vingt-et-un, come at
once, before they have left."

I was anxious to see the sort of company he kept ; and we
adjourned, accordingly, to his apartments, which were near.

Six or seven men sat around his table as he entered, whom
he had left — with some unselfishness, I am sure — to sup
with me. They had eaten nothing, although a plentiful sup-
per was piled on a side-table ; but a number of empty bottles
proved their thirst. They did not interrupt their game

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY. 299

for a moment ; but one of them moved his chair to give us
room.

" Eleven ; now then for a ten ! " roared the dealer. " Fif-
teen— curse my luck! — and nine; overdrawn, by Jove!"
A peal of joy arose from the others.

" You only pay me a V, though," said one mournfully.

" An X for me," said another ; and " You pay me sixty
dollars, — thirty on each card," added a third.

They were playing, then, a good deal too high for me ; and,
as I should have thought, for Mason also. I declined, therefore,
to join the party; but stood with my back to the fire, and
watched the game.

Vingt-et-un, like other matters which depend mostly upon
luck, is a serious trial of the temper ; and the present com-
pany seemed not to have much patience to spare : they were
more or less in wine too, and exhibited a great contrast in
their manner to the quiet and friendly fashion in which cards
are, and should be, usually played among gentlemen. The
chief cause of this was, that they were playing for higher
stakes than they could well afford; that is to say, gam-
bling.

The eternal " Make your game," and " I double you," were
the only words spoken by Mason, as dealer; but he spoke
them like a curse. Despite the heat of the room, and his in-
tense excitement, his face shone beneath the bright light of
two or three gas-burners as white as alabaster, and his thin
hand shook over the pack like a lily on a dancing rivulet. He
kept the deal a short time, losing heavily ; and, when he was
player, he clutched at the cards before they readied him like
a drowning man catching at straws.

I shaded my face with my hand, for I was deeply pained,
and watched him intently. He had usually " stood " upon his
first two cards without drawing another ; but he seemed sud-
denly to change his plan, and « drew " again and again.

300 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES,

"Nine — sixteen: surely you must be over," said the
dealer.

" No, said Mason, " thank you ! I stand."

Now, on that occasion I happened to see that Mason was
over, — being twenty-two, — and that he received the stakes
instead of paying them. My blood rushed to my head, and I
thought that I heard my heart beat for a moment at the
sight; but I dismissed the thought that his act was inten-
tional, and watched in hope that it would not be repeated.

No, thank Heaven ! he is "over" this time, and throws up
his cards with a sigh ; and now he wins ; and now, as I live,
he is " content " at twenty-five, and again receives instead of
pays. Not twice nor thrice this happens, but twenty times.
He is cheating whenever there is an occasion to cheat.

The night — or rather the day — wears on, and still the
players sit unwearied: their lips are parched, their eyes are
heated, and they scarcely can take up their cards. But not till
dawn breaks in through the thick curtains and athwart the
flaring gas-lights does any one leave his seat : then two
hurriedly depart ; and the rest drop off their perches presently,
like moulting birds ; and I am left alone with him who was
my friend and playmate, and who cheats his guests and com-
panions.

" Devilish dissipated, ain't it ? " said Mason, yawning.

"Devilish !" I echoed.

" And what cursed luck I've had ! A hundred 'dollars ready
money and two hundred and fifty of autographs gone besides.
But, Lord love you ! I've had worse luck than that, and shall
have again ; and, if I don't mind it, why should you, old chap ?
Don't look so confoundedly virtuous," he added angrily ; for
I was looking all I felt : " you've done the same before
now."

" Never the same, Mr. Mason," I replied.

(t What do you mean ? " said he hastily, but without remark-

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY. 301

ing on the way I had addressed him. "You've never gam-
bled : do you mean to say that ? I like your impudence."

" Gambled, perhaps," I answered, " but never cheated, sir."

At that word his wan cheeks burnt like two living coals, and
he dropped into an arm-chair beside me without a word ; while
a sort of convulsion seemed to pass over his whole face, and
his breath came and went with difficulty.

" Mason," I said with pity and some emotion, " be a man !
You were drunk, and knew not what you did. You lost com-
mand of yourself, or you could never have done such a foul
deed, I know."

I saw with joy the tears gathering in his eyes, and, with my
face averted from him, appealed to his old nature as forcibly
as I could.

I told him what a hold he once had on all the hearts of his
old associates, and how men's backs were turning on him
now. I bade him judge how his whole self was changed by
his own altered features and the strange companions he had
chosen.

He only answered by a silent passion of tears. I was
obliged to put to him some bitter questions for the sake of
that I had in view.

" Does any one know of this beside yourself, Leonard ? "

He shook his head.

" Is this the first time in all your life that you ever did this
thing?"

" The first, the first ! " he moaned.

I thought, and still think, that this was true ; that he
cheated in a sort of despair, and in a frenzy, rather than
according to a preconceived and customary plan.

" Have you a Bible in the room, Leonard ? Good ! I have it

here. Now swear to me that you will not touch dice or card

again for two years ; swear, I say," for I saw he was about to

refuse ; " or for your own sake, as well as that of others, I

26

302 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

will proclaim what I have seen to-night, not only to your
friends, but also to our military superiors."

Leonard Mason took the oath, and kept it ; for he left New
York -that very day for Washington, and, having graduated in
the cavalry previously, applied to be sent to his regiment,
then on the western frontier of Texas. I was in the artillery :
and so, for some years, we were widely apart ; and it was only
across the memory of my brightest academy-days, and especi-
ally over their scenes of pleasure and excitement, that his
shadow fell dark and cold.

Only two years since, I visited my home at Williamsburg
on a short leave of absence ; and, being well acquainted with
all the old Virginia families of the neighborhood, was invited
to the house of an ancient acquaintance of my own.

Cleves Court was the seat of Col. Landon Carter, a Vir-
ginian of the old style ; and there he dispensed the proverbial
hospitality of the Old Dominion in a right royal fashion.
The colonel had " one fair daughter, and no more ; " and I had
known Clara Carter from childhood, our families having been
quite intimate for several generations.

Clara was not quite pretty, but had vivacity, and a thousand
charming graces of manner many times more attractive than
mere beauty of person. She was tolerably accomplished, and
was reputed to have a handsome sum in her own right over
and above what expectations she might have from her father.
More than once I had thought of an alliance with this desira-
ble young person myself: but she had once caught me prac-
tising an address to a young lady aloud, arrayed in cadet
uniform, before a mirror in a drawing-room at Cleves Court,
thinking I was solus ; and she never forgot it. Whenever
afterwards I strove to be tender, she would give her imita-
tions of my looks and gestures on that occasion ; and I, know-
ing how little laughter is akin to love, soon stifled my flame
in my military studies, and began to take a life interest in the

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY. 303

army. Still, however, I felt very anxious for her happiness ;
and it was with some terror, and much astonishment, that I
discovered, on my arrival at Cleves Court, that she was
engaged, and that the fortunate suitor was Capt. Leonard
Mason.

Col. Carter, it seems, was not altogether satisfied with her
suitor or his prospects ; hut Clara had set her heart upon him,
and it was at her own disposal. To my half-joking questions
about her lover, she gave me such replies as convinced me,
that, in manners and attractions at least, he was the same who
had charmed us all in youth ; " but he looks so pale and thin
at times," she said, " that I can scarcely bear to look at him."

An early day was appointed for us to meet at Cleves Court,
the colonel thinking it would be agreeable to both parties on
the score of our comradeship at West Point ; and I was im-
patient for the time to arrive. " If he blushes or looks con-
fused at seeing me," thought I, " it will be a good sign : that
sad business at college will still haunt his memory, and prove
him to be not inured to shame. It was his first and last and
worst error, perhaps ; and who am I that I should bring the
sin of his youth against another man ? How many of us in
early life have committed faults, and even crimes, and yet have
reached harbor and smooth water ! and what right have we
to send another, who is about to join us, back again upon the
stormy deep ? " Full of these magnanimous reflections, I
arrived at Col. Carter's, finding within-doors that gentleman
himself only, who bade me seek the young couple in the
garden. They were walking together under a trellis of roses
at the farther end, and never heeded my footsteps as I came
along the gravelled walk toward them.

He had his arm around her waist, and was combating, it
seemed, some opinion or scruple of hers ; for his musical tones,
although I could not hear their sense, caught up and over-
powered hers.

304 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

On a sudden Clara gave a little scream, and pointed to me ;
and then I knew that it was I who had been the subject of
their debate. As they came forward, she endeavored to dis-
entangle herself from him ; but he held her firmly as before.

Mason had changed much, and showed the marks of time
and service : his complexion was bronzed, and he was heavily
bearded.

" What a time it is since we met ! " said he. " Why, when
was it that I saw you last ? "

"In New York," I replied. "You must remember that,
Mason;" for I was not pleased with his coolness and
effrontery.

" Yes," he said, " to be sure it was in New York ; and we
had some ridiculous quarrel about vingt-et-un"

" Well, don't do it again : for that is just my age ; and I
don't want to be quarrelled about," said Clara. And the din-
ner-bell — tocsin of peace — began to sound.

At the table we heard as much of the captain's history as he
chose to tell. He spoke of his Indian fights, of Camanches
and Lipans, and the excitement and adventure of frontier-life.
He poured out quite a river of anecdote, all of which he
finished off by some prudent or moral reflection ; lamented
this man's passion for play, another's thirst for drink, and the
absurd extravagance of a third : in fact, acted the part of a
model son-in-law to be to perfection.

But in the evening, as we smoked our cigars, after the old
colonel had retired to rest, and Clara had followed his example,
he was, to me, more natural in his communications.

He then spoke of the intrigues and marriages made " on
spec " in society ; of his colonel's fondness for " brag " and
" poker ; " of the ease with which money was to be made at
the Metairie races by the crafty ; of the " smashes " that had
occurred in his regiment: and, in fact, laid open the whole
repertoire of a fast military man.

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICERS STORY. 3Q5

His old humor was quite gone ; but a bitter wit overflowed
his talk, and an utter disbelief in goodness and good men per-
vaded all his language. This he addressed to me, " as one man
of the world talking to another : " so and so and such were the
real truths, — the sort of horrible, hopeless gospel always her-
alded by that particular expression. And yet when he drew
himself up to his full height, and wished me good-night with
his old bewitching smile, I pressed warmly his outstretched
hand ; and, long after the echoes of his footsteps had died
away on the oaken stairs, I sat over the fading embers with
my mind fuller of sorrow than anger because of him.

•I had the darkest foreboding about this marriage. I had
little doubt but that Mason was a fallen star, who would fall
lower yet, and drag down with him another, pure and bright,
and dear to me. Yet I liked him still : what wonder, then, at
her affection, who knew his strength, and not his weakness?
" How often do we see men like these," I thought, — " men
without a prayer, who have twenty pious lips to pray for them ;
without love, — to call such, — and yet so wildly adored; with-
out one great or wise or beautiful thought, and yet diffusing
almost a glory by their presence ! With one look of love they
wipe away a hundred wrongs ; and, when they die, their image
is enshrined in many hearts, and not less tenderly because
these may have been broken." I had no right, without more
evidence, to compare Leonard Mason with such men as these ;
and yet I did so. It is not hard to find out in the army what
an officer's life has been : but I did not consider myself justified
in prying into the captain's past career in the South-west ; for
I knew that I had been a rival, and feared lest jealousy might
prompt me in the matter quite as much as a regard for Clara's
happiness.

Their marriage took place a short time after my visit to
Cleves Court ; and they went North for a wedding-tour.

I received a most eligible appointment as instructor of

26»

306 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

artillery at Fortress Monroe ; and frequently paid visits to Col.
Carter, who urged me to come whenever I could. The child-
less old man, who had given up the light of his home, told me
it was pleasant for him to be with one who had known and
loved his daughter, — for he knew of my old affection for her
better than she did, and would gladly have encouraged it, —
and we talked of the absent one continually.

Month after month passed by without any sign of their
return ; and Clara's letters grew more vague, and Leonard's
were quite silent as to their movements. He wrote that he
found living at the North more expensive than he thought,
and generally requested to have more money. Once, even, he
wrote me a private epistle, " as one man of the world writing
to another," about the possibility of getting at the property
of his wife, which, according to my advice, had been put quite
safely out of the gallant captain's reach. Then the letters of
both ceased altogether. Post after post had Col. Carter begged
of them to write; and I myself had not been backward in
appealing to Mrs. Mason's filial feelings, or in pointing out to
her husband the hazard of offending his father-in-law. But six
months elapsed without letters from them. I then became
convinced that he was preventing her by force; cutting off, for
some purpose of his own, her intercourse with her parent : and
here all my considerateness for Mason vanished, and I made
every inquiry about him I could think of. Knowing that his
leave of absence had expired, I found out at the war depart-
ment that Capt. Leonard Mason, — th Cavalry, had resigned his
commission ; that his resignation had been compulsory, to avoid
trial by court-martial on account of some gambling transac-
tions which had come to light since he left his regiment in
Texas : " And indeed," said my informant, the secretary of
war, " they were some of the worst cases that ever came under
our notice."

My suspicions being thus verified, I volunteered to the

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY. 307

almost frantic father to go in search of the lost sheep, or
rather, of the wolf and lamb so unfortunately paired. I would
not take him with me, because he was the last man in the
world fitted to cope with Mason ; but he gave me the fullest
powers to act for him, and, if it could possibly be done, to
bring about a separation.

I went on my sad errand, among the throng of pleasure-
seekers (for it was now the summer), up the noble river which
Leonard and 1 had often ascended together in our cadet-days.
The grand scenery of the Highlands looked as imposing as of
yore : all things around were beautiful ; and every heart save
mine seemed to be full of joy. The noisy glee of a knot of
young cadets — which vividly brought to mind my former
experience — contrasted most painfully with my sad forebod-
ings. One of them forcibly reminded me of what Leonard
Mason once had been when we had climbed together to the
" Cro' Nest," and, while we rested, he sang to us " Excelsior."
Then I doubted not that the words of Longfellow were appro-
priate to the singer as to the place; and, as I thought of him
and the vanity of the prophecy, my heart grew heavy with
fear.

I naturally intended to seek the Masons at Saratoga, as this
was the last place from which tidings of them had been re-
ceived ; and it was, moreover, the resort of the gay set among
whom I expected to find them. The first afternoon of my
arrival was spent in fruitless inquiries ; but the next day I fell
in with a person who had seen them both at this celebrated
watering-place, and who knew Capt. Mason. He assisted me
in seeking them ; but we found that they had left a day or
two before, and had gone to New York. To the great city,
then, I proceeded on the evening train ; and, as soon as I ar-
rived, lost no time in renewing my search, but without success.

The next day, by the merest accident, I encountered a
person who knew everybody, and had seen Mason without
knowing his name.

308 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

" Why, they are here, sir ! I saw them last night : I am
sure of it. They were both playing together in a private

room at M 's," — naming a noted hell, in which ladies were

sometimes admitted by special favor of the proprietor, since
an M. C. ; " the gentleman very pale, and with black beard
and hair, and sunken eyes ; the lady not handsome, but lady-
like, and with a musical voice."

" Good heavens ! " said I. " And did you ask their name ? "

"Oh, yes! M told me, — Stuart; Captain and Mrs.

Stuart."

" Thank God ! " I said. And yet the next moment I doubt-
ed whether it would not be better that they should be there
than not to find them at all, or to find them doing worse.

Accompanied by my acquaintance, who had the entree, I
went to the private room of the "hell" that evening. I sat
down at the gambling- table among others, holding my head
low, as if intent upon the game, and watched the company as
they entered. Presently the man I was in search of came
in, with a lady, thickly veiled, upon his arm ; and the two took
seats opposite me. Yes, it was she, but deadly pale and quiet,
looking more like a wax automaton than the light-hearted
and self-willed Clara I had known. She had been fond of
jewelry, and used to wear it in profusion ; but there was not
an ornament about her now, except her marriage-ring, which
I saw as she stretched out her hand to receive her winnings or
pay the banker. She seemed utterly careless about the matter
herself; but, when more fortunate than usual, she looked up
from the cloth into her husband's face, as if to glean from it
a beam of joy. They evidently played in accordance with
some systematic plan ; but they did not prosper. I saw Leon-
ard Mason's face darkening, and his teeth setting tighter, with
every failure to win his stakes. At last, with a terrible but
suppressed oath, he rose, and walked rapidly from the room,
motioning to his wife to follow him.

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY.

Conversation is not usual in these places ; but, when he had
gone, one of the initiated present made the remark, —

"The captain's scheme doesn't answer. He said he should
break the bank as surely as P did last summer."

" Ah ! " said the dealer imperturbably, " P did not go

away with the money, though ; and as for the captain's new
system, it's as old as the hills."

It was strange to hear the banker thus proclaiming his own
invincibility ; but he knew well how fast the devotees of the
table were bound to him; and, indeed, he was answered by a
general laugh. I had already risen, and was following the
couple out of the room. They walked into Broadway, and en-
tered Union Square. The moon shone brightly ; and her rays
were reflected in the basin of the great fountain, which was
rippled by a light breeze. * The scene was peaceful and lovely.
The square was vacant at that late hour; and, as I advanced
towards the Masons, I was reminded of the time I first met
them together in the garden at Cleves Court. The way in
which he laid his hand upon her arm at my approach recalled
the manner in which he refused to be shaken off on that
occasion. I saw in that grip that he was recalling to her
mind certain previous directions, and that he had calculated
upon a meeting of this sort.

" Captain Mason, or Stuart," I accosted him, " I have mat-
ters of a very serious nature to speak to you upon." At that
intimation his pale cheek grew whiter; and I felt sure, at once,
that he had done something to be afraid of, besides the things
I- knew of.

"Mrs. Mason," I continued, "to you also I have some
weighty messages from a father you may possibly never see
again."

" Address yourself to me, sir, if you please ! " burst forth her
husband violently ; but she broke in with, —

" Tell me, for God's sake ! is he ill, is he here, sir ? 0
Leonard, Leonard, let me see our father ! "

310 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

"He is not ill, madam," said I; "though he is broken-
hearted. But, if I return to him without you, I do not doubt
that he will die ; and at your door, Capt. Mason, who have not
suffered his daughter to write to him, his death will lie. Shall
I go back and say that his son-in-law dare not pass under his
own name, and that his daughter is compelled to become a
professional gambler in the public hells of New York and
Saratoga ? "

" You will return to him," replied Mason savagely, " with
a bullet through your heart, if" — But here Clara, in an
agony of tears, and half swooning, entreated to be led home ;
and we bore her between us (for she could not support herself)
to their apartments on the third floor of a neighboring street.
They were almost without furniture, and not altogether clean,
but with a glass of flowers here and there, and a few other
traces of the " grace past neatness " which rarely forsakes a
woman. Papers and cards covered with figures showing the
average numbers of times certain cards had turned up at faro
proclaimed the systematic gambler, not the mathematician ;
but they were all delusive calculations for discovering the philo-
sopher's stone, — the way to win. Mason carried his wife, still
sobbing piteously, into an inner room, and, returning instantly,
motioned me to a chair, and demanded my business.

" May I ask, sir, on the part of Col. Carter, why you have
not corresponded with him these six months, — not even to
inform him of your having left the army ? "

" You know as well as and better than I, sir (for I believe
you put your meddling hand to it)," he replied, "that he
refused me a pecuniary request, made on the part of his own
daughter ; and I did not choose that she should have any thing
more to do with such a hard-hearted old miser."

" Now, supposing," said I, " as one man of the world talking
to another, it was rather in the hope of bringing the old miser
to your terms ? and supposing that your plan has taken effect,

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY, OH

and that I am instructed to pay you half your demand — that
is to say, twenty thousand dollars — upon condition that Mrs.
Mason returns to her friends ? "

I had expected an outburst of rage at this proposal ; but he
only turned himself to the cabalistic documents upon the table,
and, after a little consideration, answered calmly, —

" No : I must have thirty thousand ! "

Col. Carter would have given double that sum ; but I was
so enraged by this coolness, and want of feeling, that I ex-
pressed myself with an eloquence that would have carried
every thing before it in a criminal court.

" Swindler, cheat, felon ! " I cried, — and at the word " felon "
I saw him shake " like a guilty thing," and pursued my ad-
vantage,— "yes, felon, whom to-morrow I could consign to a
life-long imprisonment, how dare you make conditions with
me?"

But he recovered himself almost immediately, and bade me
leave the room.

"To-morrow, sir, will see me far from this city with her
whom your unselfishness is so anxious to divorce from her
husband.

" Do you think," he added with all his ancient bitterness
as I crossed the threshold, "that I have not heard of the
friend of the family, the confidential adviser, the Platonic
lover, the rejected suitor, before now ? "

My indiscretion had thus broken off a treaty which promised
to be more favorable than I had dared to hope. If Clara could
have been induced to leave him, the business might have been
by this time equitably, or at least legally, settled ; but what
was to be done now ?

I went again to my acquaintance of the night before ; for it
might be that Leonard Mason had compromised himself so
deeply, that the fear of the law would bring him to reason.
His all-absorbing passion for play might have led him within

312 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

its liabilities. I stated my case to this person, and asked if he
could assist me.

"Certainly," said he, a bright thought seeming to strike him.
"Come with me."

After a short consultation, we went to the headquarters of
the police, where I procured the help of an officer ; and we
returned to the lodging of the Masons. Leaving the officer
outside, I entered, and found the captain alone, as before, but
with several trunks and boxes about him, evidently prepared
for immediate departure.

" Well, Capt. Mason," said, I, " I am come once more to
repeat my offer of last night."

He laughed quite scornfully, and replied, —

" Since you are so hot about it, sir, you must now give forty
thousand for the lady. I will take no less ; and in two hours
it will be too late. Go to your hotel in the mean time, and
debate the question of l love or money.' "

" You do not move from this place unless I wish," I an-
swered. At a sign from me, the officer entered ; and I con-
tinued : —

" You are now arrested for living under an assumed name,
and for confining your wife under duress ; and you will be
detained in prison until other and far graver charges which
may be brought against you shall have been substantiated."

The last sentence had a great success, as I could see by his
changing color; and he replied, with an appearance of his old
frankness, —

" You have out-manoeuvred me, I confess : withdraw your
forces, pay me the sum you proposed at first, and I will per-
form my part of the business."

The officer retired at my request, and he addressed himself
to me : —

" Shall I take an oath before you ? or will my word suffice?"

" Sir," I replied, " the results of the last oath you took in

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY. 313

my presence have not been such as to induce me to ask you for
another."

He said nothing ; but a flush came to his face which re-
minded me of that which had reddened it in his rooms years
before. I drew up a document for him to sign, which was a
literal copy of one I had received from a lawyer, and which
had been already prepared in anticipation. It bound him by
the strongest tie — his own interest — never to claim Clara
as his wife again. He signed it ; while I, on my part, gave
him a check for the money. At that moment, in came his
poor wife in her bonnet and travelling-dress.

" You may take those things off again," said her husband
calmly : " we are not going away."

She looked from him to me with a sort of hope just awaken-
ing in her tear- worn face.

" You are going home to your father, Clara," he added.

" Thank God, thank God ! " she said ; " and thank you,
Leonard ! How happy you have made me ! We will go together
to him and the dear old place, and never leave him : we will
forgive and forget; won't we, dear husband, won't we?"

" Mrs. Mason," said I, " your husband cannot accompany
you. It would not be possible for your father to see him, even
if he chose to go ; which he does not."

The truth is, I was at that time very inexperienced in the
female character, and was secretly vexed that she should cling
to this rotten tree ; nor did I then comprehend that woman's
love cleaves to its chosen object through disgrace, neglect, and
crime.

" I leave not my husband, sir," she said quietly, " until death
doth us part."

She stood erect, and laid her hand upon his shoulder, but
with a mournful look : it was the dignity of love, but also of
despair. He quietly and coldly put her arm away.

" It is better for us both, Clara," he said. " I wish it to be
27

314 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

so. I would rather," he added with some effort, " that you
never saw my face again."

She gave a short, sharp cry, and fell heavily upon the floor.

For many days she lay fever-stricken and delirious ; and I
was unable to remove her.

Fortunately I knew a most amiable and accomplished lady
in the city, who volunteered her assistance to me ; for I was
left her only protector, Capt. Mason having departed, no one
knew whither. My sympathizing friend secured the attend-
ance of one of that sisterhood which devotes itself to the alle-
viation of human suffering in whatever form it is found; and
Clara was nursed by a Sister of Charity, who scarcely ever left
her bedside.

When, at last, she returned to consciousness, the face hang-
ing over her was that of her own father : it was his tremulous
voice that answered when she called, " Leonard, Leonard ! "

Nevertheless, when the mist over her mind cleared away,
she did not refuse to be comforted, even at first. Whatever
others might have said against her husband, whatever proofs
of his unworthiness might have been shown to her, she would
have rejected; but his own renunciation of her cut, like a
sharp sword, her heart-strings from him.

She never asked to go to him again. He became to her an
ideal being. The portrait she possessed of him, the lock of
golden hair, the love-letters he had once written to her, were
memorials of a far other than he who had said, —

" I would rather that you never saw my face again."

She was taken back to the old house, and grew resigned,
and, in time, almost cheerful. She must have suffered many
and terrible things; and her nature recovered itself slowly at
the touch of kindness, as the drooping flower opens gradually to
the sun.

The old man became almost young again, and scarcely ever
left her. He was fuller of kindliness towards me than ever ;

THE ARTILLERY-OFFICER'S STORY. 315

but not so his daughter: and I was not wanted at Cleves Court,
I saw ; and so discontinued my visits.

I had a difficult mission to perform when I left Cleves Court
for Saratoga; but I did my best, and with no motive but her
good to inspire me.

Just before this war broke out, I was travelling on duty in
the West, and embarked at Baton Rouge for Natchez. It was
late in the evening when I went on board ; and, without no-
ticing a party around the card-table in the "social hall" of the
steamboat, I went to my stateroom, and to bed. I was fa-
tigued, and slept sound until morning ; when I was aroused
by a hubbub on the gang-plank, the steamer having stopped
at a wooding-station. I looked forth from my little window,
and saw a man hustled violently ashore by the indignant pas-
sengers amid many an oath and execration. Reaching the
levee, he turned his pale face, and shook his fist menacingly at
the crowd on the deck. That was the last time I saw Leonard
Mason. I went into the saloon, and found the passengers and
clerk of the boat engaged in examining the contents of a valise
they said was his, — " the cheat."

An " advantage-box," loaded dice, marked cards, were suc-
cessively drawn forth and detected by these experts, who had
lost heavily the night before, and had watched the professional
gambler, and exposed him. I thought of the days, not far
distant, that we had passed at the Military Academy, and how
terribly altered was that skeleton form I had just seen ig-
nominiously expelled from the society of his fellows from the
strong and sprightly nervous frame of the young cadet ; and
the soul too — but that was past human ken or judgment.

What has become of the lost one since I know not ; but
have heard, that, like most Southerners of military education,
he is now in the confederate army.

THE MAJOR'S STORY.

my childhood, my friends, I have been a soldier,
_JL and my earliest recollections are of the barrack and the
camp ; while my youth was accustomed to the field and the
bivouac. In fact, I have been that much-maligned personage,
a soldier of fortune ; which means, in most cases, a soldier of
wo fortune at all.

Once in my life I resolved to relinquish the profession of
arms, and to adopt some peaceful calling ; but inexorable fate
drove me back to the career which I began, as I have said,
almost in childhood.

After having given my sword to several European powers,
and also lent it to the Turk, without finding myself any better
off than when I began, I determined to visit the land of prom-
ise to all adventurers like myself, and came to this country to
seek a home and a family. I had always been a dreamer, and
to acquire these blessings was the dearest wish of my heart ;
while the hope of its realization had been my only solace in
many a dreary bivouac, as I lay on the ground covered with
my cloak, gazing upward at the stars, with oftentimes many
a poor fellow stark and stiff in his gore around me.

The expenses of the voyage had absorbed all the little ready
money I possessed ; and I landed in New York penniless,
having nothing but a stout heart and strong limbs, that had so
often stood me in good stead.

It was the autumnal season ; and I strolled all day through

816

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 317

the busy streets of the great metropolis of the Western World,
studying the new scenes that met my eye ; and, as the shades
of evening fell, I stretched myself on a bench in Washington
Square to rest.

I did not fear observation ; for I was utterly unknown. I was
pale and careworn after my voyage : and my clothes were by no
means new, — " my beaver gone to seed ; " my shoes, like those
of Julian St. Pierre, "minus half their soles." I saw the
yellow leaves of the maples drop from their boughs as the
breeze swept through them; and a shudder ran through my heart
at the sight. They were hurled round and round by the tiny cur-
rents of air ; and at last borne away, Heaven only knew whither.
" Such," thought I, " are my hopes ; " and I compared myself
to the tree from which they had been torn. In the green spring-
time of life my heart had put forth its blossoms and its branches,
and many a bird of love trilled its sweet song amid its fresh
foliage ; but all had gone. The young plant had withered ; and
the winds beat upon it, lone and melancholy. Brooding over
such thoughts as these, I clasped my hands over my eyes to
shut out the gleams of the pale stars, and wept silently.

I thought of my youth and its golden visions, and how, like
the diamond frost-work that is melted by the sun, they, too, had
" vanished into thin air." I thought of the struggles I had en-
dured, the perils I had passed ; of how I had labored and
fought, not for myself, but for others ; and, worse than all, how
my proud heart had been obliged to bow to the

" Spurns
That patient merit from the unworthy takes."

It was a bitter thought ; but I pressed my hand upon my
breast, and said to myself, " It is well."

I then imagined myself married and the father of a family,
although still in the humblest pecuniary circumstances. I
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318 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

imagined, that, my speculations having failed, I was a beggar.
In fancy, I reached my humble abode after a long and weary
walk. My wife came out to meet me ; and my children clasped
my knees, and flung their little thin, white arms around my
neck. I thought of the morrow, — of their wants, and my des-
titution ; and, though my heart dropped tears of blood, my lips
wore a smile, and I cheered them with words of hope and
lore. I bade them good-night with many kisses ; and we slept,
and dreamed those cold, gray dreams that hover over the beds
of poverty.

The next morning, after eating a scanty breakfast, I went
forth to earn the pittance of a laborer. My heart hung in my
bosom like a lump of lead, and I bit my lips to hide my agony.
My rent was due, and I had not a farthing to pay it. I
thought of my pale wife and little children ; and imagined
them shivering in the cold air, houseless and friendless.

Wrapped in these painful fancies, and walking with my
face bent towards the ground, I suddenly spied a little piece
of paper, looking like a bank-note, lying on the pavement.

I grasped it eagerly ; but, alas ! it was only a ticket in the
Havana lottery ! I kept it, nevertheless, and that day asked
a barkeeper what No. 33,661 had drawn.

"Have you that number ? " asked the barkeeper with an air
of surprise.

" Yes : here it is," I answered.

" That ticket, sir, has drawn eight thousand dollars ; and
you have only to go to the firm of P to get your money."

Who could describe the thoughts that rushed like meteors
through my bosom? I was as rich as I wished to be, and
could now hurl back with scorn the taunts of those who had
oppressed me. I hastened to my home, while the ground
seemed to fly beneath my feet. My wife's face was livid
when I approached; but, when I told her of my fortune,
she burst into tears.

THE MAJORS STORY. 319

She could not speak for joy ; but, falling on her knees, she
clasped her thin, white hands, and thanked God for his bless-
ings. She spoke not a word ; but the mute heart's prayer
rose upwards, sweet and fragrant as the incense from the holy
censer. I could not even smile ; but my eye was again lighted
with the gleams of hope and joy.

I thought, that, in a day or two, we were all on our way to
find a home in the West. As we sped up the lordly Hudson
on the magnificent steamer, my arm clasped the waist of my
wife as we sat on the hurricane-deck : and as we watched the
buildings of the great city, and the spires of her churches, and
the tall masts of the shipping, as they faded into the clouds, I
thought of those whom I had befriended, and who had requited
my kindness with contumely ; and, ah ! how merrily rang the
supper-bell on board the boat ! and how savory was the smell
of the food upon the ample table! My wife's cheeks were
pale no longer ; the children prattled gayly ; and we all sat
down together and enjoyed the repast. Thus sped day after
day till seven had passed, when we reached our destination.

I soon found a settler itching to escape from even advancing
civilization, and of him bought, with the proceeds of the lot-
tery-ticket, nearly five hundred acres of rich land, good farm-
buildings, and all his stock and agricultural appurtenances.

We were soon installed in our new residence, and were
happy, — perfectly happy. The first night of our occupancy I
sat on the balcony of my little house, smoking my pipe, and
gazing on the beautiful scene spread before me. The tall trees
around the house seemed to bow and do homage to me as to
their master. I could hear the lowing of the kine in the cattle-
yard, and see the broad fields teeming with abundant crops.
They were all mine now. I saw the brook that ran silvery
in the pale moonlight as softly as a dream. I thought how,
on the morrow, I would take my gun, and wage a crusade
against the game that chirped on the prairie in shot of my very

320 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

door. After these pleasant musings and anticipations, I went
to bed with a heart light as a feather, and dreamed sweet
dreams.

The next morning, just as the sun was tinging the summits
of the hills, and the birds were singing their early songs to
the light of day, I awoke, started, and found myself still in
Washington Square.

I had been sleeping all the while, and the lottery-ticket was
but a figment of my dream. My hat had fallen from my
head, and was nearly filled with dead leaves. Among them
was a piece of paper. It was a fragment of a boy's kite that
had been caught in the trees and blown to pieces. On it was
written, in a schoolboy's round hand, " Patience and perse-
verance will accomplish every " — and here the sentence broke
off. It was evidently a leaf torn from a boy's copy-book : but
I gave it a long, wistful look ; and, while my visions faded
away forever, I resolved to profit by the aphorism.

The sun had just withdrawn his face from the bloody plain
of Shiloh. The conflict, which had raged for two days with
unceasing fury between the armies of Grant and Buell and
those of Johnston and Beauregard, had terminated in the
defeat of the latter, which, under cover of the approaching
night, was fleeing before its victorious foe.

Yet our victory was not a great one, as by it we simply
regained the camps from which we had been driven ; though,
in point of fighting, the case was doubtless in our favor. The
confederates chose their own time and place of attack,
pounced upon an inferior force, and performed a feat that
military writers declare is impossible against a well-disciplined
army, — effected a complete surprise. A stronger combina-
tion of adverse circumstances could hardly be imagined than
that which operated against the Union army; yet we finally
repulsed them.

THE MAJORS STORY. 321

I rode forward with the pursuing cavalry. Vain had been
the courage of the rebel troops ; fruitless the exertions of John-
ston, who met his death on the field : his army was now in
hurried retreat. The shouts of the victors, the shrieks of the
wounded, and the feeble moans of the dying, the wild ravings
of thirst, cries for succor, and even prayers for death, were all
unheeded by the eager hosts intent on pursuit and escape.
Since the evening I had spent in Washington Square, matters
had prospered with me : my dream had been realized. I had
settled in a growing Western State, married, and had a small
family. But this great struggle in which we are now en-
gaged came on. My military knowledge and experience were
called for, if not appreciated ; and I was forced by circum-
stances to take part in the conflict. Although my property
lay in the South-west, I never hesitated an instant which side
to take. I enlisted in a regiment of cavalry recruited in my
State, and was appointed adjutant by our colonel, who,
innocent of all knowledge of the art of war himself, was not
blind to the advantage of having an old soldier at his right
hand.

The enemy's retreat was conducted in good order, and his
rear-guard covered the army with undaunted coolness. Our
cavalry cut down or dispersed many stragglers ; but their
farther advance was checked by a steady line just visible in
the approaching dusk, and a volley which emptied many sad-
dles. Suddenly I felt my horse reel and tumble under me,
and my own strength fail ; and instantly both horse and man
measured their length upon the sod. How long I lay bereft of
all my faculties I know not ; but, returning to consciousness,
I found myself near a heap of mutilated corpses.

The first object which caught my eye was a canteen sus-
pended to the side of a dead rebel officer, and glittering fee-
bly in the pale moonlight. Inspired by hope, I crawled to
the body of the confederate as quickly as I could, and seized

322 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

the envied treasure. I was not disappointed; for the canteen
held some excellent whiskey, a small quantity of which greatly
revived me.

Sitting down near the place where I had lain hy the side of
my poor horse, which had been slain, I began seriously to
reflect on the predicament to which the fortune of war had
reduced me. I first examined my body and limbs in search
of the wound which had so inopportunely placed me hors du
combat; but, finding no visible hurt, I concluded (what was
really the case) that the soreness in my head, and my late
swoon, were due to a contusion I had received from the fall of
my horse. I recalled perfectly the circumstances of my fall ;
and, as these were sufficient to account for all the bruises I
had sustained, further conjectures were useless. My posi-
tion was not an agreeable one. I knew the bitterness with
which the war was waged by the confederates, and the risk I
ran of being either massacred upon the field, or starved to
death in one of their vile prisons ; and these considerations
made me pluck up my spirit, with the determination to use
my best efforts to save (what I had the utmost respect for)
my neck, but to bear my fate, whatever it might be, with
manly fortitude. I soon decided upon the plan of action to be
pursued in case I was taken prisoner.

In the course of my military career, I had seen too often
the immense value of a knowledge of medicine and surgery
to the professional soldier, and had pursued my studies in
that direction during the intervals of garrison-life and other
leisure times. I had a general smattering of the principles
of the healing art ; had frequently assisted at important sur-
gical operations; knew the best styptics in use; and had
acquired a practical knowledge of phlebotomy. In my pres-
ent dilemma, these accomplishments might prove very use-
ful.

Accordingly, I resolved to dub myself a surgeon pro tern-

THE MAJORS STORY. 323

• »»

pore, and to pass as such with the enemy ; trusting that my
quality of non-combatant would rescue me from the fate
which would inevitably follow the avowal of my real rank.
Escape was impossible if the patrols of the enemy returned,
even if my limbs had been supple enough to bear me on a retreat.
We had been led far in the advance, and I was entirely igno-
rant of the position of either army. My best policy, then, was
to remain where I was ; and I adopted it, hoping that the
federal army would first come to the field to collect their
wounded. In the mean time my reveries were unbroken,
save by the occasional cries of the mutilated wretches who
surrounded me, several of whom were menaced by the turkey-
buzzards, which already thronged the field in quest of their
loathsome prey.

A cry of agony suddenly struck my ear; and, looking in
the direction whence it proceeded, I saw a young man on his
back, striving fruitlessly with his feet to drive away some of
those carnivorous birds of which I have spoken. My first
impulse, as I dragged myself towards him, was humane;
nor did the sight of his gray uniform check its operation. I
soon scattered the carrion birds ; and, having administered a
drop of my precious cordial to the parched lips of the sufferer,
began the duties of my assumed profession by an examination
of his wounds. Both arms were severely injured by a mus-
ket-ball. I soon bound them up, — a shirt from a neighbor-
ing corpse supplying me with the requisite bandages, — the
confederate officer (for such he was) regarding me meanwhile
with looks of mingled surprise and admiration.

At last an exclamation burst from his lips, and he almost
overwhelmed me with a torrent of thanks. Modestly waiving
the subject of my own deserts, I inquired if he had any hope
of soon being removed.

"Ay, indeed!" cried he. "John Middleton would have
been here long before this, but for some insuperable obsta-

324 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

cle." And, glancing at my uniform, he added, " Do you keep
up your spirits ; for, although iny arm is unable to defend
you, the word of Tom Yancey has weight with my comrades,
and you shall see that a rebel may possess a grateful heart.
But what do I see ? Surely my eyes deceive me, or I recog-
nize the canteen of Bill Davis, of my regiment ! "

I explained how it came into my possession.

" Ah ! then he has fallen at last ! — Poor Davis ! the merriest
fellow in the regiment, and a true lover of old Bourbon."

His enumeration of his comrade's virtues was interrupted
by a shout from a distant part of the field ; and the dawn, just
then breaking, showed us four or five confederate soldiers cau-
tiously seeking among the wounded. Yancey at once declared
that his friend John Middleton was approaching, and requested
me to answer the call ; which I did. In a few moments the party
came up. I must confess that I felt rather uneasy as the crisis
of my fate approached, notwithstanding the assurances of my
new friend.

The rebels, however, took not the slightest notice of me, their
whole attention being engrossed by the wounded lieutenant ;
but when they had heard a relation of his sufferings, and learnt
the kindness he had received from a federal officer, not even the
Union uniform I wore could save me from the thanks and sym-
pathy of his grateful friends.

A litter was prepared for Lieut. Yancey, while two stout
confederates supported me in their arms: the glass of friend-
ship circulated for the last time, and we prepared to leave the
gory field. At this moment a rebel officer rode up, and, catch-
ing a glimpse of my hated garb, appeared much astonished at
this unwonted display of confraternity. He was soon acquainted
with the circumstances of the case, and, turning to me, highly
complimented my humanity and skill.

" This is indeed an auspicious meeting, sir," said he. " If
you are indeed a surgeon, your services are this instant required
by one who will justly appreciate them."

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 325

Not anticipating that my skill would be so immediately put to
the test, I felt extremely awkward. I might he called upon to
perform an operation in which my. ignorance would be manifest.
I had, however, " staked my life upon the cast, and must abide
the hazard of the die." Bowing to the officer, therefore, I ex-
pressed my readiness to make myself useful in any capacity.

A stray horse was soon caught. I was helped to mount him ;
and bidding adieu to Middleton and Yancey, who were profuse
in their acknowledgments and kind wishes, I accompanied the
officer, who was attended by two orderlies. We struck into a
narrow and devious path leading through the woods. After
riding about four miles, we arrived at a log farmhouse, in a
clearing, around which several horses were picketed; while the
number of officers and orderlies constantly passing to and fro
showed it to be the temporary headquarters of an officer of
high rank. This discovery did not lessen my apprehensions.
We alighted ; and the officer who accompanied me, and who
had remained silent during our ride, threw his gray cloak over
my shoulders, doubtless with a view of screening me from the
observation of the rebels ; whispered me to be of good heart,
and to wait his return ; and left me in the rude veranda of the
log-cabin. Nodding assent, I seated myself on a rough wooden
bench, and looked around. Several officers lounged about,
smoking, and conversing on the events of the battle. A
middle-aged confederate near me was talking with a young
man; and some of their words reached my ears, -although they
spoke in a low key.

" A confounded hard day's work we have had of it," said the
eldest. " The Yanks fought like lions. The fortune of the battle
fluctuated more than once before we lost it."

" Ay," replied the youngest : " we had it all our own way
on Sunday ; but the re-enforcements coming up under Buell
gave them the victory at last."

" That blasted gunboat greatly annoyed us," said the elder,
28

326 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

" by her broadsides. Our division was almost decimated by
her shells. But for her, I think we should have broken the
enemy's line."

"Their batteries were splendidly served," returned the junior
officer : " we took six of them six times, which were retaken as
often, at enormous cost to us and to them."

" The federals were badly demoralized on Sunday evening,"
said the first. " Their soldiers were huddled together under
the high bank of the river, and could not be persuaded to face
us by their officers. There was inextricable confusion among
them ; and the gunboats not only saved them, but, setting the
woods on fire, caused the death of many of our wounded."

" The re-enforcements of Price and Van Dorn," said the
younger, "were neutralized by the arrival of their Tennessee
army, and all our expectations destroyed. The slaughter yes-
terday was terrible ! "

"It was Greek meeting Greek. My men saw, and even
hailed, their own neighbors in the deadly struggle. Poor
Johnston ! A braver or an abler soldier never drew a sword.
He was left on the field, and B "

" Hush ! " interrupted the younger man. " The general now
lies in this house, wounded in the hand : our stupid surgeons
have been these two hours trying in vain to stanch the blood
which flows from it; but the hemorrhage defies their efforts.
Unless it is speedily stopped, he is in danger of following his
colleague."

The colloquy was broken off by the entrance of the officer
who had brought me to the cabin, and who made me a sign to
follow him. I had heard enough, however, to satisfy me that
the person to whom I was about to be introduced was no other

than Gen. B , now, since the death of Albert Sidney

Johnston, commander-in-chief of the rebel army.

The certainty was by no means calculated to augment my
self-confidence. But I had no time for reflection. My conductor

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 327

led me into a narrow entry, at the end of which was a low door:
this was opened to us by an old woman ; and we entered a small
room, one side of which was occupied by a rude bed, where lay
a man of middle age and stature, with a stern but not ferocious
countenance, in which was something which checked familiar-
ity, and inspired the beholder with a feeling of respect border-
ing upon awe.

On the back of a chair was thrown his uniform of confederate
gray, the collar simply adorned with the insignia of his rank,
and his sword. Two officers, seemingly of rank, were seated
at a little distance, anxiously regarding a third person, who was
kneeling, and applying to the wounded limb cloths which were
absolutely saturated with blood. The old woman resumed her
station at the fire. The general slowly raised his eyes at our
entrance, and fixed them steadily upon my face for a mo-
ment; when, as if satisfied with the scrutiny, his features
relaxed from the expression of hauteur which they had worn,
and he addressed me in a weak though clear voice : —

" I am told, young man, that your humanity has been already
exercised in behalf of a fallen enemy. I also require the aid
of your healing art. Pray, may I ask where you received your
medical education."

" The little knowledge I possess, general," I replied, " has
been acquired in Belgium."

" You are, then, a native of that country, I presume," said
the general, " and not an American."

" Pardon me, general," I returned : " I am by birth an Eng-
lishman."

" 'Tis well, sir. I resign myself to your treatment ; that is,
if you will condescend to give the benefit of your surgical
skill to a rebel."

" 'Tis my duty as well as my pleasure, general, to relieve
suffering, whether I find it in a friend or an enemy."

« Mr. " (I did not catch the name), said the general

328 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

to the kneeling man, " you will prepare yourself to follow im-
plicitly the directions of this gentleman ; and," he pursued
with a sneer, " you may chance to acquire a lesson in the prac-
tice of an art of which you now seem to know only the
theory."

The abashed surgeon rose from his humhle posture, and,
as he relinquished his place, darted at me a look full of malig-
nity, while I proceeded, not without some trepidation, to
survey the wounded limb. My fears were somewhat alleviated
on discovering that the hurt was not of a very serious nature.
A musket-ball had traversed the fleshy part of the inside of
the hand, and the wound owed much of its irritation to un-
necessary probing ; to allay which, and to stop the hemorrhage,
seemed to be the first things to be done.

I called for some simple styptics, readily obtained ; applied
them to the wounded hand, and the bleeding stopped. I ban-
daged it securely, administered a composing draught from a
portable camp medicine-chest at hand, and desired that the
general should be left to repose. All instantly prepared to
leave the room except the nurse and the crest-fallen doctor,
whose name, I was told, was Mercier, a native of New Orleans.
Col. Game, the officer who had been my conductor, and by
whom the scowl of the indignant practitioner had not passed
unheeded, fearing lest his envious feelings might induce him
to counteract the good effects of my remedy, commanded him
to retire ; an order which he obeyed with visible dissatisfaction.
I was then conducted into an adjoining room, in which we
found refreshment awaiting us of a substantial kind, and a
tolerable bed, which seemed to me the couch of a Sybarite
after my recent fatigues. I did not awake until late in the
day ; when I again dressed the general's wound, and prepared
him to enjoy the night's sleep. Early on the following morn-
ing I was aroused by Col. Game, who, having inquired in a
friendly manner after my health, begged my acceptance of a

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 329

plain gray frock-coat, "which," said he, " will not be conspicu-
ous, and may spare you unpleasant remarks that some of our
officers might feel authorized to make at sight of a Union
uniform."

"It is not intended to place you under any particular re-
straint," he added. " You will give me your parole of honor to
attempt no escape : indeed, the effort would he vain, and would
only subject you to a penalty which even those disposed to serve
you would be unable to avert. Take my advice, then, and he
patient. The general's rest has been undisturbed during the
night, the greater part of which I remained in his room : he
feels much refreshed ; and we shall all start this forenoon for
Corinth, the general riding in a carriage. Upon arrival there,
unless we are pursued by the federal army, he hopes that he
will be well in a few days, with your aid ; when it is probable
that the first moment of his recovery will be the last of your
captivity. We will now, if you please, visit the general, whose
wound requires your attention to prepare him for the journey.
Recollect that you have already gained two friends ; and have
a fair chance of securing a third, whose interest is of far greater
value."

I readily gave my parole, thanking Col. Game for his
good advice, and declaring that I should follow it implicitly ;
and together we entered the general's chamber.

I found the inflammation considerably abated, and the suf-
ferer much better. Having renewed the dressing, I retired to
the veranda and joined Col. Game, who introduced me to
several officers of the general staff assembled for their frugal
breakfast, and who received me with marked politeness.
When the meal had been silently discussed, the much-worn
carriage brought to the door and made ready for the occupa-
tion of the general, the company mounted ; and, before noon,
our cavalcade was slowly advancing toward luka and Corinth.

This last place is a strong strategic point. It lies in the

28*

330 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

bosom of a semi-mountainous country, the surrounding hills
forming an irregular circle from four to eight miles in diameter.
The Mobile and Ohio Railway crosses the ridge formed by these
hills, through a cut seventy-five feet in depth perpendicular-
ly. Similar cuts of less depth penetrate the hills on the east,
west, and south, where the different railways enter. Beyond
these hills, in the direction of Pittsburg and Savannah, the
ground becomes more level, and much of it is low and swampy.
The country is diversified, the soil fertile ; and there are ex-
tensive forests of oak, hickory, walnut, and pine. The principal
military value of Corinth lies in the fact that it is a great rail-
way centre for the different lines of the South-west.

Aa I rode near the carriage of the general with Col. Game,
I had an opportunity of learning some of the reasons for
the retrograde movement we were making, and was also in-
structed on many political points about which I had not
hitherto been informed. We arrived late in the day at the
town of Corinth ; and orders were given, immediately upon our
arrival, to strengthen the defences of the place, and to re-organ-
ize the troops, as their shattered regiments arrived, after their
terrible losses at Pittsburg Landing. Col. Game and myself
were quartered in a small two-roomed house near the head-
quarters of the general, into which we withdrew to partake of
some refreshment.

Later, allured by the beauty of the evening, I was induced
to cross the threshold, and almost unconsciously strolled to the
farther extremity of the enclosure in which the house was
situated. The little yard was surrounded by tall trees, through
which an opening was scarcely perceptible, and was about an
acre in extent. Finding a stump of a tree which had been
lately felled, I sat down on it, and insensibly fell into my cus-
tomary inveterate habit of revery. Time passed unheeded;
and it is uncertain how long 1 might have remained in my
brown study, had I not been suddenly aroused by a rustling

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 331

sound. Springing to my feet, I gazed attentively around, but
could perceive nothing to indicate whence the noise proceeded.
I had begun to believe it was the work of imagination, when
the same sound again arrested my attention. I started sudden-
ly : and well was it for me that I did so ; for the sharp crack
of a revolver quickly followed the sound, and I was saved from
its bullet only by my precipitate movement ; for the leaden pro-
jectile grazed my head as it perforated my hat. I rushed in
the direction of the report only to see indistinctly a dark form
swiftly hurrying through the belt of trees encircling the yard.
I halted, and was joined by Col. Game, who had heard the
sound, and came to seek me; and who, on learning what had
happened, warmly congratulated me on my escape. All search
for the assassin at that hour being deemed useless, we returned
together to the house. The suspicions of the colonel and my-
self pointed toward Mercier ; but, having no confirmatory
proof, we resolved to conceal our opinions for the present, and
content ourselves with adopting precautionary measures against
a similar attempt.

Lieut. Yancey soon called upon me, and insisted upon super-
intending the arrangement of my little comforts. He had
nearly recovered from his wound in the right arm ; and point-
ing to his left, which he wore in a sling, said, " You see, sir,
I am still on the list of non-effectives : therefore you can avail
yourself of my proffered services without the fear of encroach-
ing upon my military duties."

I would not hurt his feelings by refusing his request ; and
soon his voice was heard in and about the premises, authorita-
tively demanding every thing requisite for my complete accom-
modation.

About a week elapsed, during which the general's wound
had fully healed ; and in the daily preparations he was making
to receive our army, then advancing to besiege Corinth, he
appeared to have utterly forgotten me, and the hopes of liberty

332 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

which had been held out to me. Col. Game was absent at
luka, and his return was uncertain : and, heartily tired of a
life of unaccustomed inaction, I became uneasy and dejected ;
nor could the persevering solicitude of Yancey and his inex-
haustible gaieti de cceur suffice at all times to relieve my
depression.

In this frame of mind I would frequently wander into the
suburbs of the little town to a grove of trees that had been
spared from the fate of all the others in the vicinity by orders
from headquarters, prompted by a recognition of the necessity
that would soon exist for firewood and timber nearer the cen-
tre of the place than the surrounding forest when it should be
beleagured by our advancing forces. A few log-cabins stood
here and there around it. Here, screened from observation, as
I imagined, by the friendly shelter of the huge tree-trunks, I
indulged my dark fancies, and even suffered my ideas to roam
beyond the bounds of this sublunary world ; and, for a brief
space, forgot the sad reality of my captive state. The grove,
disturbed by no other sound than the sighing of the wind
through its vaulted aisles, as it seemed to float in undulating
sound, in its gloomy grandeur accorded with my soul's melan-
choly. Once, while in one of these reveries, I was suddenly
aroused by the approach of footsteps. A figure muffled in a
homespun cloak advanced, and, thrusting a slip of paper in
my hand, hastily retreated, and was quickly lost in the gloom.
Surprised at the incident, and anxious to ascertain the purport
of the mysterious scroll, I bent my steps towards the outer
skirting of the grove, and read as follows : —

"Do the chains of the rebels sit so easy on thy limbs that
thou wishest to continue in bondage ? If not, and if thou wilt
break thy fetters, meet the writer of this at the rear of the
cabin nearest the grove to-morrow at midnight. Burn this ! "

There were certain mystic characters rudely traced on the
paper, the meaning of which I did not understand ; but I

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 333

knew at once that the missive came from some one of those
secret societies which had sprung up throughout the South,
since the breaking-out of the great civil war, under various names.
Some of these circles were formed to aid the Confederacy in
the attempt to set up a government of their own within the
limits of the United States; others had for their object the
protection of the Union men of the South who adhered to
the government of their fathers ; while still others were insti-
tuted for the protection of deserters from the military conscrip-
tion ordered by the Richmond government, which was and is
exceedingly unpopular throughout Secessia, as you all probably
know.

Having carefully perused the paper, I deposited it in my
vest, and hastened to my quarters, where I learned with satisfac-
tion that Col. Game had retired to rest. Seated in my apart-
ment, I sought the missive, intending to burn it as requested;
but it was not to be found.

I was greatly alarmed. I might have dropped it where it
would have been picked up by some one belonging to the gar-
rison : its import would evidently direct suspicion toward my-
self. My situation was a critical one ; but I could do nothing :
I could only await events.

Resolving, however, to try to recover the lost missive early
the next morning, I threw myself on my couch ; but sleep for
many hours refused to visit my eyelids, and daylight found me
wearied in body, and agitated in mind. I rose, however, with
the dawn, and hurried to the grove, traversed its paths with
rapid steps, and searched in every direction for the lost paper,
but without success.

Bitterly execrating my carelessness, I returned home in a
state of mind bordering on despair. Yancey was present at
breakfast, which had been prepared under his auspices, but ex-
pressed no surprise at my early absence ; although I remarked
that he was more than usually attentive to my wants, — al-

334 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

most officiously so. As the thief sees an officer in every bush,
so I trembled at every sound: the slightest noise, to my per-
turbed imagination, seemed the precursor of my arrest ; and I
hailed with pleasure the close of a day which seemed to me the
longest I had ever known. The evening passed away less heav-
ily. Yancey successfully exerted himself to dissipate my melan-
choly. About ten o'clock I escaped from the kind assiduities
of my grateful friend by pleading an inclination for repose.
When alone, I began seriously to consider my situation. Tho
note of the stranger proffered me the means of enfranchise-
ment: if these means proved such as I could in honor avail
myself of, my duty to the cause I had embraced imperatively
demanded my acceptance of them. I decided, therefore, to
keep the appointment, and to let the result of my interview
with the secret emissary govern my subsequent course. While
I meditated on the uncertainties that lay before me, two hours
almost imperceptibly slipped away : the hands of my watch,
placed before me on the table, now indicated the last quarter.

I sprang up, wrapped my cloak around me, and, having
extinguished the light, silently descended to the street. A
few minutes' walk brought me to the designated spot; and
the dark and indistinct outline of a human form beneath tlio
overhanging gable told me that my mysterious correspondent
was punctual. After a brief greeting, he told me in a low voice
to follow him, as the place was ill adapted to the nature of our
conference ; and that he would conduct me to another, whore
we should be at least safe from casual interruption. I assented.
My conductor led me by a circuitous route, studiously avoiding
the principal streets, through several narrow and filthy outlets,
to the western extremity of the town. Here we stopped amid
the ruins of some cabins that had been once used for barracks,
and afterwards deserted.

"We are now," said my guide, "near the spot I spoke of;
but, as you are not one of the initiated, it is requisite that

THE AfAJOR'S STORY. 335

for a short time you should submit to have your eyes band-
aged."

I did not offer any objection to this proposal. My pride
would not allow me to recede, since I had gone so far in the
adventure ; and, having been blindfolded, my conductor caught
me by the hand, and guided my steps. It was difficult to walk
in this manner; and I found the path in which I was led both
rugged and intricate. The distance, however, was short,
apparently; and in about a quarter of an hour the stranger
again halted, and struck three distinct blows upon a resonant
surface with a stone, or perhaps the hilt of some weapon of
offence. A hollow, almost sepulchral voice inquired, —

" Who comes there ? "

My guide replied, —

" Uncle Sam ! "

" Long live the Republic ! " was the rejoinder.

We now descended half a dozen steps ; when I discovered,
by feeling with my hands, that we had entered a subterraneous
passage, the sides of which were damp. It was not of great
extent, as a few moments brought us into a freer air. Here I
learned from my conductor that our journey had terminated.

He removed the bandage at the same time ; and I saw that
we were in a tolerably spacious vault, or cellar, partially illu-
minated by a lamp hung from the roof by an iron chain. Im-
mediately under it was a rude table, round which, on coarse
wooden benches, were seated six persons, enveloped in coarse,
loose garments of dark homespun, which effectually concealed
their figures; while all had their faces hidden by black masks,
the barbes of which fell almost to their waists.

One, who seemed to act as secretary to this secret conclave,
had several papers before him, and a pen in his hand, which I
presumed was to be employed in taking notes of the examina-
tion to which I was evidently about to be subjected.

My guide pointed to a stool, intimating that I might be

336 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

seated; and, having whispered a few words to the chief person
who appeared to preside, took his place, masked like the others,
at the tahle. The chief then began his interrogatory by de-
manding of me my name, place of nativity, and my residence
and rank. I instantly replied to the first and second ques-
tion ; and was about to answer the third, when my interlocutor
said, —

" Spare yourself, sir, the pain of equivocating : we know that
you are adjutant of the Sixth Illinois Cavalry, United-States
Volunteers, and also the motives which induced you to assume the
character of a surgeon : the stratagem was allowable, although
its adoption unfortunately defeated a plan that would have
essentially benefited the cause you have sworn to support. It
is, however, in your power to retrieve the opportunity you were
the innocent instrument of destroying."

" Put me to the test ! " said I eagerly. " If the action be an
honorable one, the dread of death shall not deter me from
essaying it."

" Reserve this display of enthusiasm till the occasion comes
to prove its reality," resumed the speaker of the conclave. " At
present, you are enjoined to listen in silence to any communi-
cation we may think necessary to intrust you with ; and, lest
you should question our authority, learu that we derive it from
the purest sources, — the voice of the persecuted Unionists of
the State of Mississippi, which has nominated us to the legis-
lative body secretly established in the mountains that surround
us. An important blow at the Confederacy was meditated
that would have paralyzed the secessionists, and redeemed the
State from thraldom. Fortune seemed to favor its execution.
The daring patriot to whom its execution was intrusted al-
ready saw within his grasp the glorious reward which his zeal
would have merited from a grateful nation. At this moment
you appeared, like a baleful planet, to wither his hopes, and blast
his design. Mercier had " — at this name I started with agi-

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 337

tation — " sworn to immolate our tyrant at the shrine of his
country's freedom, and was about to redeem his oath, when
you" —

" Great God, I thank thee," I fervently ejaculated, starting
from my seat, glowing with indignation, "that thou hast
made me the instrument of defeating the assassin's purpose ! "

" Peace, fool, nor interrupt me with your cant ! " vociferated
the wily casuist, who evidently used his inflated language to
conceal even to himself the vileness of his excuses for a cold-
blooded murder. "Know that the end often sanctifies the
means : that which you term assassination is but retributive
justice. We have no time, however, to waste in words. Mer-
cier, through your means, has become an object of suspicion :
any further attempt on his part would be madness. You are
bound to supply his place. Daily opportunities present them-
selves. Hank, riches, and freedom are the result of your com-
pliance ; death, inevitable death, the consequence of your
refusal. Pause ere you decide ! "

" My choice is already made," I calmly answered. " I would
suffer a thousand deaths rather than owe my life to such con-
ditions. I cannot see how you can offer such a base alterna-
tive to an honorable soldier. Do you pause, sir, and these
gentlemen too, before you sully our glorious cause with such
treachery ! "

" Perish, then, in your obstinacy ! " exclaimed a hitherto-
silent member of the conclave, at the same time drawing a
bowie-knife, and springing to the spot where I stood unarmed.

I felt that the crisis of my fate approached, and collected
myself for a final effort. Practised in all athletic exercises,
I quickly enveloped my left fore-arm in my cloak, and received
the assassin's thrust unhurt; while a straightforward blow from
the shoulder with my right arm dashed off the mask of my
assailant, and levelled him to the earth. His features were
those of the malignant and bloody-minded Mercier. To seize
29

338 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

his knife, which he had dropped, and place myself in a pos-
ture of defence, was the work of an instant. Like a stag at
bay, I resolved to sell my life dearly. I had, however, fearful
odds to contend with ; for six knives, formidable as my own,
in the hands of as many infuriated demons, gleamed before
my eyes.

The conspirators would not use fire-arms, because the reports
would have betrayed them. At the instant before the threat-
ened attack, a loud crash was heard ; and the assassins stood
transfixed with astonishment. A rush of footsteps followed ;
and, in another second, the vault was filled with confederate
soldier*, at the head of whom I recognized Col. Game arid
Lieut. Yancey. The seven conspirators were removed to the
city prison. We returned to the quarters ; and I then learned
from the confederate officers the following particulars : —

Yancey had noticed my depression of spirits, and, fearing it
might lead me to the commission of some rash act, decided upon
watching my movements. With this view he had followed
me to the grove, in which, concealed behind a tree-trunk, he
had witnessed the delivery of the secret note, which, being sub-
sequently found, made him acquainted with the hour and place
of interview. At this he likewise contrived to be present, and,
having traced the stranger through all the labyrinths of his
route, arrived shortly after him at the ruined barracks. The
intricacies of the path, which impeded my progress and that
of my guide, favored his concealment ; and, screened from obser-
vation by the logs and rubbish that lay in the road, he managed
to reach the entrance to the vault just in time to catch the sig-
nal and countersign. Possessed of these, and having noted
the exact spot, he returned to the town to apprise the military
authorities. On his way to the office of the commandant
of the place he met Col. Game, who had just arrived, and to
whom he made known his errand.

Not an instant was lost in mustering a special patrol from

THE MAJORS STORY. 339

the main guard, which, as has been seen, having forced an
entrance, arrived just in time to save me from destruction.

The sequel is soon told. At an early hour the next morn-
ing a military commission assembled in Corinth by command

of Gen. B , before which the seven prisoners were arraigned.

On the evidence of the papers seized in the vault they were
found guilty of treason to the Confederate States, and of being
spies within their lines, and unanimously sentenced to death.

I was also tried as a participant, but only for form's sake,
and fully acquitted ; the evidence showing that I had mani-
fested the strongest abhorrence of the proposal made to me.

Corinth being then in a state of siege, the stern require-
ments of military law called for the instant execution of the
sentence, which was carried into effect within two hours after
its promulgation. I was released without exchange in conse-
quence of the services I had performed, and received the
thanks of the general. Col. Game and Lieut. Yancey went
with me to the federal outposts ; at which I was delivered up
under a flag, and rejoined my regiment.

After the capitulation of Corinth to our army, and a conse-
quent temporary lull in the military operations in that quar-
ter, I obtained a short leave of absence, and visited my home
in Missouri.

Here the worthy major hid his face in his hands, and seemed
terribly affected by some inward emotion. After a little while
passed in perfect silence by the whole circle of officers in
respect to his evident grief, he resumed : —

I will refrain from distressing you, gentlemen, with the
details of the irreparable and heart-rending misfortunes that
had fallen upon me. Suffice it to say, that I found my home
a desert, my house destroyed by fire, my flocks and herds dis-
persed no one knew whither, and my wife laid by stranger

340 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

hands in a distant churchyard. Soon after, my children died
one by one; and I am left alone again in the world. All
this unutterable distress I owed to those incarnate fiends, the
Jayhawkers.

The major rose from his seat, and strode out into the dark-
ness. We soon lost sight of his tall form, but could trace his
path by the clattering of his long sabre as he made his way
towards a retired spot, doubtless to indulge his favorite habit
of melancholy revery.

We all now stretched ourselves on our straw to enjoy a little
sleep, without taking off our clothes, arms, or accoutrements ;
our horses, in charge of the orderlies, picketed near, ready sad-
dled, as is the custom on picket-duty. But our slumbers were
of short duration. I was first aroused by the dropping fire of
the cavalry outposts and vedettes far away in the front of our
infantry pickets : this was succeeded by the crack of the latter'a
pieces ; and these again, after a brief interval, by the more
regular and sustained fire of the reserves of the grand guard.

I then knew it was an attack in force, or at least a forcible
reconnoissance ; and sent information to the camps in our rear.
The whole force of about two brigades was soon engaged with
the enemy ; and I again sent for re-enforcements, which soon
arrived ; and the enemy, having succeeded in ascertaining the
position and force of our picket-guard, withdrew after a smart
action of about two hours, in which our line suffered some
losses.

I then rode to the front to re-establish the line, and to recon-
noitre, in my turn, the battle-field ; passing the many dead and
wounded, who were already being removed to the hospital in the
ambulances, or taken to the rear by their comrades for burial
in a nameless grave.

The confederate dead lay thick in a ravine, the possession of
which had been hotly contested. Emerging from this, myself

THE MAJOR'S STORY. 341

and staff came upon a little elevated plateau that had been the
scene of a charge of our cavalry upon the confederates.

As we reached a group of bodies, a young officer uttered
an exclamation ; and I saw stretched dead upon the ground
the fine athletic figure of the major of the Sixth Illinois
Cavalry. He had been pierced through the heart by a rifle-
ball ; and his features wore a placid expression that seemed
to indicate satisfaction with the manner of his death. Near
him, and just in his front, lay the corpse of a confederate
officer, his head cloven by a sabre-stroke.

The artillery-officer was riding by my side, and dismounted
to look at the features of the dead confederate. "Leonard
Mason ! " said he. " This is the end of my poor school-fellow ! "
And he could hardly conceal his emotion. Death atones for
all errors ; and let us hope, that, in this case, it was a relief to
both the wrecked gamester and the unfortunate man who had
evidently slain him by a strange fatality.

29*

THE GENERAL'S STORY.

LOBITO; OB, THE AVENGER.

A LMOST my first military adventure in the service which
~L\. I had entered — the Mexican army — occurred at Quere-
taro, — a city since made famous by the execution of the unfor-
tunate Maximilian, and his two unlucky generals, Mirainon
and Mejia.

Miguel — or, as he was then universally called, Miguelito —
Miramon was, indeed, one of my pupils in the military school
at Chapultepec, and noted, even at that early age, as a youth
of uncommon spirit and genius.

A day after my arrival on a mission from my chief, the presi-
dent of the republic, to whom I was then acting as aide-de-
camp, I remarked to a friend that I had never heard the
human voice so perfectly imitated as by a fine parrot who
passed his time on a roost, or perch, outside a house opposite
my lodgings, on the great square, or plaza.

My friend agreed with me in my opinion, and, informing me
that there was a history connected with the bird, invited me to
accompany him on a visit to his owner, who, although the pos-
sessor of a magnificent huacamaya and several other fine
specimens of the family of the psittacidce, seemed to value his
little ordinary lorito more than all of them.

About four years since, said Don Manuel, — in answer to
my request for his story, — my brother left us for the northern

842

THE GENERAL'S STORY. 343

frontier to fight the savages ; and the poor lad left to me Lorito
as his last bequest. " Should I return," said he, "you will give
him back to me : if not, keep him for a remembrancer; and,
should he die, have him stuffed, and still preserve him in
memory of me." I promised, and have kept my word. Lorito
is still in my house ; and, notwithstanding his age, which I do
not know exactly, he appears to be likely to survive not only
his first, but also his second master. I was at that time
engaged in commerce ; and, shortly after, receiving intelligence
of the death of my poor brother, who was killed by the Indians,
was compelled to depart for Havana on business of some im-
portance. I resided then in this house, at that time the prop-
erty of my aunt, who had living with her as companion a young
girl, an orphan without kin, whom she had reared from a child,
and to whose care I left Lorito, with many charges to take pains
with his health and education.

I had not then ceased to look upon Engracia — which was
the orphan's name — as other than a child, although perfectly
aware of the sweetness of her disposition, and of the promise
of great beauty she bore in form and feature. On my return,
which was within a year, I was astonished by the loveliness of
Engracia, which, as is common in our climate, had rapidly de-
veloped during my absence. I was also most agreeably sur-
prised at hearing my parrot call my name, saying in a clear
and audible voice, " Viva Manuel ! " — a salutation taught him
by the amiable orphan.

I was obliged to leave again very soon for Havana, and this
time regretted more than before the necessity that compelled
my departure ; for, during my short sojourn, I fully appreciated
all the good qualities of the beautiful girl. During the voyage
from Vera Cruz, I found myself often asking whether Engracia
was not the companion destined for me by Heaven, in case I
was favored by fortune, and was able to return again to reside
in my native city. I brooded long over the fact, that, when the

344 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

time came for my adieus, ray old aunt pressed me in a long
embrace ; while Engraeia presented her cheek, which was rosy-
red, then grew instantly pale; and that she supported herself
by the wall, as if unable to stand, — a parting quite different
to our first, at which she showed no emotion.

Of course I wrote regularly to my aunt, and never omitted
to add some message for Engraeia, who I knew read the letters
to the old lady. At last, I wrote directly to my sweetheart, as
I now considered her, begging her to keep my secret even from
her benefactress, and telling her the day would soon come
when we would mutually confide to the old lady our plans and
hopes for the future. She loved me, for she gave her assent
to my desire ; and, if this was a fault, the poor child cruelly
expiated it. After our correspondence had continued for some
time, I thought it my duty to conceal the affection I felt for
Engraeia from my aunt no longer; and wrote to her that I
cherished the design of making her my wife. This letter was
unanswered. The poor old lady was already grievously ill
when it arrived, and, indeed, died a few days after.

On her death-bed she embraced Engracia, and made known to
her the contents of the letter. At any other time joy would have
pervaded her heart; but now she bowed her head, and was silent.
The dying woman then asked her if she knew of my love for
her; and she acknowledged that she had known of it for some
time. In answer to the questions of the old lady, she owned
that she returned my love, and divulged the secret of our clan-
destine correspondence. My aunt listened benevolently, and
charged the orphan to marry mo, and to make me happy.
Then, telling her that the thought of our union made her die
content, she bade her adieu in the most affectionate manner,
and asked for a notary to be sent to her bedside. Having dic-
tated new testamentary dispositions as to her property, the
notary gave place to the priest ; and then began the death-
agony. My aunt died that night. Her illness had been a
short one.

THE GENERA US STORY. 345

Engracia wrote and despatched a letter, urging me to return
immediately ; but the ocean mails were tedious, and I did not
receive it for a long time.

It was three months at least, after the decease of my aunt,
that I learned the sad news from the orphan's letter; and even
then my business was in such a condition, that it would have
been ruinous to me to leave Havana without arranging it satis-
factorily to myself and others.

Five mouths elapsed from the time of my aunt's death before
I again set foot in Queretaro.

Meantime seals had been placed upon the movable property
of the defunct, and her estate was unsettled ; but I was named
her universal legatee, except a small life-annuity to Engracia,
which was her dower. The young orphan still resided in the
house of my aunt, in which she passed her time while attend-
ing to her religious and charitable duties, as usual, and awaiting
my return ; her sole attendant being an aged female.

Let us not forget Lorito. Engracia still kept the poor bird,
who maintained his position in the perch outside the window
looking on the plaza, amusing the inmates of the house and
the passers-by with his mockery of all the sounds he heard,
and his persistent bavardage, rounding off his sentences usual-
ly with a loud " Viva Manuel ! "

There is usually a large garrison kept in Queretaro, and the
plaza is frequently used as a place of exercise. Lorito became
acquainted with the braying of cornets, the rolling of the
drums, and could distinctly repeat the commands given by the
drill-officers to the recruits daily exercised on the square beneath
him. His " Carry arms ! " " Present arms ! " &c., was the daily
wonder of the loungers on the plaza. Notwithstanding that
Engracia lived a solitary and unobtrusive life, only going out
to church, or to visit the tomb of my aunt to pray, gloomy
days were in store for her.

There was in the garrison a young officer, a notorious liber-

346 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

tine, the son of a rich, and influential family of Mexico, who
had already distinguished himself by the profligate dissipation
of a handsome patrimony. This officer, strolling one day near
the cemetery, met the beautiful orphan, where she had gone to
pray, and was struck with her elegant toumure, her graceful
walk, and princess-like bearing. Although he could not dis-
tinguish her features, partly concealed as they were by a long
and voluminous reboso, he followed her, and even accosted her
in an almost deserted street.

Engracia deigned not either to turn her head or to hasten
her steps, opposing to the bold advances of the lieutenant the
most disdainful silence. She had not even the air of noticing
his presence ; while he continued to dog her steps, meanwhile
pouring into her ear all sorts of commonplaces.

Engracia continued her walk homewards calmly, secure in
the safety of the streets at noonday, and entered her house as
if nothing had happened to annoy her : so that his barrack
phrases of admiration fell upon deaf ears.

His trouble was not, however, entirely lost ; for at least he
had learned the residence of the beautiful incognita. In a
place like Queretaro, it is not difficult to obtain all the other
needful information about a lovely woman who has struck one's
fancy ; and the result of his researches in this direction was
quite satisfactory to this vulgar Lovelace. He resolved, cost
what it might, to bring to reason the haughty orphan, and to
punish her disdain.

He made his plan at once, pushed a reconnoissance into the
enemy's place itself, took account of the feeble resistance she
could oppose to him, and resolved to risk the assault.

No one ever could explain the means he took to enter the
house without observation ; but he did so one evening, passed
into the patio, — court-yard, — and, climbing a tree, got access
to an empty apartment in the second story.

This room was separated from that of Engracia only by a

THE GENERAL'S STORY. 347

door in a partition. Old Antonia, who was deaf as a post, slept
quietly on the ground-floor ; and the invader knew she could
scarcely hear thunder.

On this evening Engracia was not asleep : she was reading
my letters, she says, for the hundredth time. Hearing a slight
noise, she tremulously cried out, "Is it you, Antonia?" think-
ing it might be her nurse. No answer was returned.

Although gentle, timid even, Engracia did not lack courage.
She took up her candle, saying to herself it was only her
duena, bravely opened the door separating the two rooms, and
almost dropped the light on seeing the young officer.

" Who are you, sir ? " she cried in as commanding a tone
as she could assume ; " and why are you here ? "

The lieutenant took the candlestick out of her hand, and
placed it on a table ; then, smiling on the young girl, said, —

" You deigned not to listen to my protestations of love in
the street ; and I admit you had reason ; for, undoubtedly, you
wished me to understand that the place was very badly chosen.
So I have found it necessary to come here without leave ; for
it would not have been granted, probably, had I asked it,
ignorant as you must be of the ardent and sincere love I bear
for you, and which I now avow, as well as that I have been
forced to take this step."

" Sir, you most unworthily and cowardly abuse my condi-
tion, knowing that I am alone and unprotected ; but I can yet
make myself respected, even by you ! As to what you call your
love, know, sir, that I am the affianced of a man of honor,
who, should he learn of your insult to me, would compel you
to account to him for this odious proceeding ! "

" Ha, ha ! " laughed the officer. " And who is this happy
mortal who pretends to dispute so adorable a beauty with
me?"

" Viva Manuel ! " cried the parrot, awakened by the sudden
flash of light, dancing on his perch at sight of a stranger.

348 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES. -

"Ah ! he calls Manuel. Now, I will lay any odds that he
has been taught that name by yourself," said the intruder.

" Go away, sir, or I will cry out ! " returned the young girl
with energy supplied by terror.

" Oh, no, indeed, my beauty ! What ! leave without having
manifested all the passion I feel for you ? You cannot mean
it?"

" You wish, then, to bring scandal on my good name," said
the girl in an appealing tone. " Sir, you will compromise
me without accomplishing your unworthy intentions ! Go,
sir, I pray you, in the name of your mother, in the name of
your sister, if you have one ! "

The officer, still smiling, made an attempt to pass his arm
around her waist, and to draw her to him. Engracia recoiled ;
but the officer advanced, and succeeded in seizing the affrighted
and unnerved young girl. She cried aloud at this outrage,
which was the signal for the parrot to make outcry loud
enough to wake the dead ; but old Antonia slept on.

Engracia redoubled her screams, and the parrot his un-
earthly clamor.

"Devilish bird!" muttered the lieutenant angrily: "he will
certainly cause the old woman to come up here ! " And, curs-
ing the poor bird, he dealt it a violent blow with his fist.

Engracia sought refuge in a corner, clasping her hands :
her choking throat could no longer give voice to a call for help.
The young man walked towards her, took her hands in his,
and even dared to attempt to kiss her paje lips. Suddenly he
imagined he heard a noise ; and, before he could decide whether
it was reality or an illusion, the parrot redoubled his cries
vehemently. " To hell with thee, infernal bird ! " said he, tear-
ing him from his perch, and launching him forcibly from the
window by which he had obtained entrance into the apart-
ment.

The px>o,r creature, bulled rudely by a vigorous hand, obeyed

THE GENERAL'S STORY. 349

the impulse like an inert object, and, without the power of
opening his wings, fell into the garden near the wall of the
house. Chance, or Providence, guided its fall close to the win-
dow near old Antonia's bed, who was, however, more awakened
by the vibration of the room overhead than by either the cries
of Engracia or those of the parrot, although the tatter's were
redoubled in a more piercing tone than before, being this time
cries of pain. " What's the matter, senorita ? " asked the old
woman, opening her shutters. " Help, help ! " cried Engracia
as loud as her strength permitted.

The audacious libertine now understood that the game was
up for him this time. "I leave you now, senorita," said he
with suppressed rage : " but I will find you again ; and, if
you resist or complain, I swear I will kill you ! It is for
your interest to keep silence as to what has passed here, if
for no other reason, to assure the safety of your handsome
Manuel."

Saying these words he ran to the window, passed out, and,
seizing the branch of the tree by which he had ascended, let
himself to the ground. In another instant he had disappeared
from the enclosure.

Antonia, having at last climbed to the room of her mistress
by the stairs, found poor Engracia in a dead faint on the
floor, having succumbed to the loss of strength and nervous
prostration. The next day she had a burning fever, was de-
lirious, and lay for some days in imminent danger. Old Anto-
nia summoned the doctor, and cared for and nursed the poor
girl as if she had been her own daughter. Meanwhile no one
cared for poor Lorito, who had his wing broken by his sudden
and violent expulsion from the apartment of his mistress.
How was he cured ? That is an ornithological secret : but
cured he was ; and, about a week after, Engracia faintly smiled
at hearing the old cry, " Viva Manuel ! "

I must now tell you why the lieutenant did not execute his
so

350 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

terrible menace. " I will find you again," said he, with flashing
eyes, to Engracia ; but he had never again sought her.

After leaving the house, he went to a supper at which he
knew he should find his comrades. The guests were all sober
enough when he arrived; but he, irritated by his failure, and
mad with spite, began to drink inordinately. He was a little
dashed at first ; but, as the wine raised his spirits, he became
communicative, then loquacious, and finished by recounting
all the details of his rash attempt, concluding by reiterating
in a drunken voice his threat to Engracia, — "I will find her
again ; " adding in a maudlin tone, " And, the next time, I will
not fail."

" You will do no such thing, sir," said an officer calmly.

" You are jesting, I think," said the first.

" You shall not commit an infamous deed which will recoil
on the whole of us. You shall not dishonor your uniform by
ruining this poor child. Anyhow, it is a cowardly act ; and I
forbid it ! " said the officer.

These noble words were warmly applauded by all present
with voice and gesture.

But the lieutenant, stung to the quick, and more than half
drunk, retorted, —

" Is it a captain, or a capucin, that presumes to address me
in this manner? Are we listening to a sermon? or are we at
a feast ? "

The captain rose, and his friends followed his example.
" Let him get over his potations," said he, unmoved. " He is
now drunk. To-morrow he will be reasonable ; and he will
regret his words, and, yet more, his mad, silly threats."

"I shall do nothing of the sort! " roared the lieutenant, his
eyes fairly bloodshot with rage. Moreover, I will soon show
you whether I am drunk or not ! "

So saying, he drew his sword, and rushed upon the captain.
The latter easily parried the thrust with his arm, and, by a

THE GENERAL'S STORY. 351

rapid turn of the wrist, seized the blade the miscreant would
have buried in his body, and disarmed him. The others then
threw themselves upon the lieutenant ; and he was dragged
away, hurling curses upon them all.

The affair became known, and the commanding-officer of
the garrison placed the lieutenant before a court-martial. In
some cases, doubtless, the offence might have been treated
with some leniency ; but this man had the most deplorable
antecedents, which prevented the court from softening the
rigor of their sentence.

Several times he had been punished for grave infractions
of discipline, and had only succeeded in obtaining his epau-
let by an act of distinguished bravery. Moreover, the au-
thorities deemed it necessary to respect the opinion of the
civilians, who regarded the sanctity of their dwellings as
something not to be lightly violated by those who should have
been foremost in protecting it. In this case the sentence of
the court-martial was death ; the prisoner's insubordination
having been great, and his offence aggravated by repetition.

A relative high in office at the capital interceded for mercy,
and brought powerful influence to bear in his behalf. The
president refused, at first, either to pardon him or to commute
the sentence; but finally decided to spare his life, but to
bound his clemency. He ordered the colonel commanding
the place of Queretaro to come to the city of Mexico, and com-
municated his will to him, directing him at the same time to
preserve it a profound secret.

The condemned was to suffer military degradation, and also
all the apprehension of execution : only, at the moment of
giving the last command, the officer of the firing-party should
not pronounce the word " Fire ! "

The guilty person was then to be sent to the Castle of
Perote to be immured in a cell, or to join a company of disci-
pline composed of malefactors to labor on the public works,

352 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

or be sent to fight the Indians in the North, as should be
hereafter decided.

Meanwhile my poor Engracia convalesced slowly ; but, as
her health was re-established, consciousness of the past
returned, and she was the victim of a deep melancholy.
" He will find me," she said ; " and, when he does, he will
execute his terrible threat. But, even if he does not, how
can I conceal from my affianced husband all the outrage and
violence to which I have been subjected ? It would be dis-
loyal in me to do so; for I should have no secrets from him
who has the right to all my love, as I wish, in turn, to feel
myself entitled to all his esteem. And how can I meet
without blushing and trembling the man who has dared to
sully my lips with his kisses?

" Oh ! should I find myself some time with him in a saloon,
for instance ! Horrible ! "

Lorito, perched on his stick at the window, seemed to
understand this monologue ; for he uttered loudly his comment
upon it, — " Viva Manuel ! "

Meanwhile I was sailing over the waters of the Gulf, long-
ing to reach my native land, and thinking the swift steamer
that bore me onwards more slow than a clumsy Dutch galliot.

The day of the military execution, in conformity with the
sentence of the court-martial and its supposed approval by
the president, arrived at last ; and the garrison assembled on
the plaza of the city, upon which, as you may see, the front
windows of our house look down. The hollow square was
formed, and the condemned was escorted into its centre.
First the sentence and its approval was read in a loud voice
by the staff-adjutant ; then came the military degradation, — a
punishment yet more terrible to a soldier than the swift death
which was to follow. At last, the priest, who had not left the
side of the condemned, embraced and quitted him, and the
firing-platoon took their station under a lieutenant.

THE GENERALS STORY. 353

The doomed man bore himself bravely, and with the cour-
age of our race. He begged to be allowed to die with his eyes
unbandaged, and earnestly desired to give the command to
fire. The colonel commanding granted the first request, but
refused the last for good reason.

The silence of the plaza was oppressive, broken at last by
the harsh, quick command, "Keady !" "Aim!" "Fire!" fol-
lowed in quick succession. The twelve muskets made but one
report, and the unhappy culprit fell face forward on the stones
of the plaza : several bullets had entered his heart, and death
was instantaneous.

As the last command rang out, the colonel put spurs to his
horse, uttering a sharp cry ; and the gallant beast made but
one leap towards the officer commanding the firing-party.
The rider was pale as the corpse before him ; and so was the
officer, who stared into his colonel's face blankly, unmindful
of the uplifted sabre he bore.

" Desgraciado ! " (" Unfortunate man ! '') " why did you
command ' Fire ! ' contrary to my express orders ? "

" I, colonel ? I did not command ' Fire ! ' " answered the
officer, completely nonplussed.

The deathlike silence again prevailed, soon suddenly inter-
rupted by a clear, trumpet-voice crying, " Recover arms ! "
" Present arms ! "

It was Lorito, who commanded the military exercise, as
was his wont, from his perch at the window.

He it was who had cried " Fire ! " He had avenged Engra-
cia.

In a few days I learned of this scene from the lips of my
affianced in this house. Sighing, I pressed her to my heart,
assuring her that to me she should always be the angel of
purity I had so often dreamed of, and bidding her never again
to blush before any one.

The poor wretch who would have dishonored us has expi-

80*

354 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

ated his crime. May God forgive him ! Our marriage was
celebrated soon after my arrival ; and I have this boy, who was
named for his father, " in order," says Engracia, " that, when
Lorito salutes us with his favorite cry, I may not know
which one he means."

Seated in the xaduan (hall) of my new acquaintance, I lis-
tened to this short and simple tale; at the conclusion of which
the parrot took up the word, as the Spaniard says, and repeat-
ing a long rigmarole of military commands, drum-beats and
rataplans, bugle-blasts, and a verse of a song, made an end
with "Viva Manuel!"

MONTE; OR, THE ROBBERS.

SCEJCE. — The " Socicdad," — a private club-house on the Great Square
of the city of Mexico.

Present. — Several loungers ; myself, seated at a window looking on the
square, sipping chocolate.

Enter Don Eusebio Lancry, a gay young Frenchman, — in American par-
lance, a " sport," — many years a resident of Mexico, whom I invite to
seat himself at my table.

Don Eusebio. — AH, mi colonel ! I know you are aboiit
to ask me where I have been for the last few weeks, and shall
be most happy to relate to you my experiences for that time,
or since I last saw you.

Myself. — It will give me much pleasure to listen, knowing
you seldom say any thing not instructive or amusing : besides,
I have heard that you had "fallen among thieves " lately.

Don Eusebio. — You have been rightly informed. I never
again expected to enjoy this pleasure, I assure you. I will
tell you all about it.

Well, some weeks since, I started for Vera Cruz, on business,
and, returning, was captured by the salteadores of the camino
real, and taken into the mountains near Plan del Rio.
There I was stripped and searched: my repeater, a fine
Breguet, was appropriated ; and, finding only about ten ounces
in money in my pockets, the rascals, enraged at my foresight,
tied me to a tree, preparatory to putting me to death, because
they could not find a more ample booty.

855

356 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

Myself. — And how did you escape from these gentlemen
of the road ?

Don Eusebio. — Just as" I had given up all hope of ever
revisiting my dear native land, or of seeing yourself and my
other friends again in this world, and was endeavoring to recall
some of the prayers of my childhood, the leader, or captain,
of the band rode up ; and I instantly put in a strong appeal to
his sympathies, and, above all, to his desire for revenge, not
that of blood, but of money. It was lucky, indeed, for me that
the captain was the well-known Rafael Hernandez, an old
acquaintance; and our recognition was mutual. We had last
met at the great annual fiesta, of San Agustin, which, as thou
knowest, is the occasion for meeting every one of our
acquaintances, and the true Olympian games of this silly
Mexico.

It so happened that I had there encountered Don Rafael,
and that our meeting resulted in a skirmish at monte, in
which he lost a hundred golden ounces, which he paid on the'
spot like a true caballero.

He was quite another man, clad in the riding-dress of a
ranchero, and surrounded by uncouth and rude brigands.
Then he had been at San Agustin, where he was attired in the
newest French mode, and accompanied by gay and beautiful
ladies, to whom he handed out his gold to bet for him, on
account of their better luck, with the most negligent and
dashing air possible.

" Now, Don Rafael," said I, " can you not save me from the
hands of these gentlemen, your subordinates, and, I doubt
not, most honorable friends ? "

" I have every disposition to do so, my dear Don Eusebio,"
returned this chivalrous rascal ; " but " —

" Ah I" thought I, " there is a « but.' "

" In our fraternity we have certain rules which even I
dare not transgress, even to prove the sincere friendship I feel

MONTE; OR, THE JOBBERS. 357

for you. One of these rules is, that nothing can be done by a
member of our honorable society for the individual benefit of
any single one of us, but that every step taken among us shall
be for the good of the whole association. Unless, then, you
can show me, that, by saving your life, I shall thereby confer
an advantage on the whole partida, I must, disagreeable and
wretched as it will make me, leave you in the hands of
these gentlemen to do as seemeth best to them. True it is
that this decision, to which I have consented only from a
sense of its necessity, which has no law, irks me exceedingly
in your case, inasmuch as I well remember, that, at our last
interview, you promised me my revenge for the hundred
bright ounces I lost to you at San Agustin. Those shiners
I should like much to win back ; but I see no way of doing so,
as you have now no capital wherewith to commence a bank."

His last words restored my equanimity, and re-established
my confidence in my own resources. I now saw my way
clear out of my difficulties, resolving to at once practise upon
the all-absorbing passion of the sons of the country for gam-
ing. I immediately addressed Don Rafael thus : —

" My dear compadre, it is ill arguing with a man who has
been tied to a tree, fasting for two mortal hours : induce these
gentlemen, then, in whose faces I see already the evidences
of a relenting spirit, to liberate me from my bonds on my
parole not to attempt escape (this would have been impos-
sible under the circumstances, but I made a great merit of
offering it), and I will contrive a means of gratifying your
very laudable desire, contribute to the amusement of your
friends, and probably increase the funds in the military chest
of your amiable troop. Without the least peradventure, I am
confident of achieving the laudable object contemplated in the
rule you mentioned, without causing its infraction by your-
self."

The gang agreed to the proposition, and, I may say with

358 PUFFS FROM PICKET- PIPES.

pardonable vanity, placed itself in my hands. Pen, ink, and
paper were produced : and my first step was to draw upon the
banking-house of Escandon & Co. for a thousand dollars, at
thirty days' sight ; which draft I made Hernandez indorse as
security for my appearance in person, alive, before its arrival
at maturity, half down, and the balance in three weeks, or
sooner if required.

The note, with a letter, was despatched at once by a mozo
well mounted, who returned on the following day with the
money. We all then adjourned to a small and secluded
rancho in the hills, and I opened my bank in due form. All
entered zealously into my plan, which they said would enable
them to amuse themselves finely while awaiting the opportu-
nity for some new exploit in the way of their profession.
Don Rafael was eager for his revenge ; and the contest began.

I can truly assure thee it was the keenest encounter of wits
I ever experienced in this country, in which my practice in
this line has not been small. At the first seance, thirty-six
hours were spent without sleep, and almost without tasting
food. Drink was out of the question ; and, luckily, there was
none within reach of the rancho. At the expiration of that
time, my nerves had become so tense, owing to the attention I
was forced to give to the game, that I greatly feared a brain
or nervous fever. With a little respite, however, I pulled
through, and, much relieved, began again, single-handed, the
fight against this band of devils, headed by the arch-fiend
Hernandez. Finally, after a struggle perfectly unexampled
in all my play at games of hazard, my Caucasian constitution
and temperament triumphed over the mixed and mongrel
organization of the modern Mexican ; and, after four days and
four nights of arduous exertion, I was declared the victor.

I won back not only the amount I had originally invested
in the monte bank, my watch, and the small sum I had been
robbed of by the villains, but also their own spare cash, — very

MONTE; OR, THE ROBBERS. 359

little, to be sure, — half a dozen indifferent horses, and the deed
of a house and garden in the city of Puebla (which I shrewdly
suspect is mortgaged for its full value), a bag full of opened
letters rifled from the diligences, a gold-headed cane, a case of
surgical instruments, the wardrobe of a travelling actress, and
a splendid lace cap and cloak that has served at the christen-
ing of some baby of wealthy and aristocratic parentage.

After the battle had been won, my mind was at ease ; for I
knew that these gentlemanlike scoundrels would religiously
observe the sanctity of their gambling-debts; and I lay down
on the hard hide bedstead of the poor rancho, leaving my
stakes on the table we had used for play, without a doubt
of their perfect security.

I was saved ; and for full twenty-four hours I slept, uninter-
ruptedly, the sleep of the just.

I awoke restored in mind and body ; partook of chocolate
prepared by a nice-looking moza, who acted as the Dona
Leonarda of the brigands ; and ordered up one of my horses.
I then magnanimously divided among the robbers all the
property I had won from them, generously adding a couple
of hundred dollars of the five hundred received from the house
of Escandon & Co.

At parting I received the congratulations of the band, with
thanks for the amusement I had afforded them, and promised
one and all that I would gladly give them their revenge in
case of our meeting again. I then mounted and took the
road hitherwards, piloted as far as the camino real by one
of the bandits. I arrived only yesterday, and me voila !

I do not know why the rascals did not hold me to ransom,
which they might have done, and reaped, perhaps, a large
pecuniary benefit ; but I suppose the high stakes for which I
played — my life and liberty — added so much to the excite-
jiu'ut of the game, that it possessed a corresponding attraction,
lor them.

360 PUFFS FROM PICKET-PIPES.

I most fervently hope, however, that I may never renew my
acquaintance with Mexican brigands, or repeat my game of
inoi it <• under the like circumstances ; for all my strength was
required to support the strain upon my mental faculties and
nervous system, and never before did I so much feel the need
of perfect repose as at this moment.

The sense of honor displayed by Hernandez and his band,
any of them being ready to cut my throat in an instant with-
out remorse at ordinary times, forcibly reminds me of the
hero of one of your finest poets, — a man

"Of one virtue, and a thousand crimes."

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