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Full text of "Kew gardens"

KEW GARDENS 

PAINTED BY T. MOWER MARTIN 
DESCRIBED BYAR'HOPEMONCRIEFF 




Ex Libris 
C. K. OGDEN 




THE LIBRARY 

OF 

THE UNIVERSITY 
OF CALIFORNIA 

LOS ANGELES 



V 



UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUME 



THE COTSWOLDS 

By G. F. NICHOLLS and FRANCIS DUCKWORTH 



NORTH DEVON 
By HENRY B. WIMBUSH and F. J. SNELL 



SOUTH DEVON 
By C. B. HANNAFORD and CHARLES ROWE, M. J.I. 



GALLOWAY 

By JAMES FAED, Jun., and J. M. SLOAN 



IRELAND 

By FRANCIS S. WALKER, R.H.A., and FRANK MATHEW 



LIVERPOOL 

By J. HAMILTON HAY and DIXON SCOTT 



THE PEAK COUNTRY 

By W. BISCOMBE GARDNER and A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFK 



KEW GARDENS 



AGENTS 

AMERICA . THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 

AUSTRALASIA THE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS, MELBOURNE 
CANADA . THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. 

27 RICHMOND STREET WEST, TORONTO 
INDIA . . MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. 

MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY 

309 Bow BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA 




THE RHODODENDRON 



KEW GARDENS 

PAINTED BY 

T. MOWER MARTIN, R.C.A. 

DESCRIBED BY 

A. R. HOPE MONCRIEFF 



WITH 

24 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS 
IN COLOUR 




LONDON 

ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 
1908 



73 
K51M7 



PREFACE 

KEW GARDENS contain what seems the com- 
pletest botanical collection in the world, handi- 
capped as it is by a climate at the antipodes 
of Eden, and by a soil that owes less to Nature 
than to patient art. Before being given up 
to public pleasure and instruction, this demesne 
was a royal country seat, specially favoured by 
George III. That homely King had two houses 
here and began to build a more pretentious 
palace, a design cut short by his infirmities, but 
for which Kew might have usurped the place of 
Windsor. For nearly a century it kept a close 
connection with the Royal Family, as the author 
illustrates in his story of the village and the 
Gardens, while the artist has found most effec- 
tive subjects in the rich vegetation gathered into 
this enclosure and in the relics of its former state. 



CONTENTS 

I 



PAOB 

ROYAL RESIDENCES . 1 



II 
KEW IN FAVOUR ...... ^ 31 

III 

THE STORY OF THE GARDENS .... 83 

IV 

THE VILLAGE: IN AND ABOUT IT . . . .113 

V 

VISITING THE GARDENS . . . 157 



vii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

1. The Rhododendron Dell .... Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 

2. The Wild Garden in Spring 8 

3. The Lake ........ 18 

4. The Queen's Cottage . . . . . . 30 

5. In Queen's Cottage Gardens .... 34 

6. Looking up the Thames 42 

7. The Pagoda . . ... \ . . 58 

8. The Water-Lily Pond . . . . . . 64 

9. The Palace . .- . . . . 78 

10. In the Italian Garden . . . . . 90 

11. The Ruined Arch . . . . . . 96 

12. The Azaleas . . . . . . . .102 

13. The Peonies . 108 

14. The Palm Trees and Main Gate . . . .112 

15. The Rhododendron Walk . . . . .124 

16. The Poppy Beds 138 

17. The Rosary ........ 146 

18. Wild Hyacinths 152 

19. In the Rock Garden . . . , . . .158 

20. The Palm House 164 

ix 



x KEW GARDENS 

FACING PAGE 

21. The Greenhouse 172 

22. Wild Flowers in the Beech Woods . . .176 

23. The Lake, looking South 198 

24. The Herbaceous Ground 200 



KEW GARDENS 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 

THE most conspicuous feature of Kew is its 
Pagoda, from many points seen towering over 
the well-wooded flat watered by a winding reach 
of the Thames. Such an outlandish structure 
bears up the odd name in giving a suggestion of 
China, not contradicted by the elaborate cultiva- 
tion around, where all seems market-garden that 
is not park, buildings, groves or flower-beds. 
Yet the name, of old written as Kaihough, 
Kaiho, Kayhoo, and in other quaint forms for 
which quay of the howe or hough has been 
guessed as original belongs to a thoroughly 
English parish, whose exotic vegetation, nursed 
upon a poor soil, came to be twined among 
many national memories. These, indeed, are 
most closely packed about what may be called 



2 KEW GARDENS 

the willow-plate pattern period of our history, 
when a true-blue conservatism had the affectation 
of letting itself be spangled with foreign amenities 
and curiosities, jumbled together without much 
regard for perspective or natural surroundings. 

Before coming to the Gardens that are its 
present fame, we should understand how Kew, 
even in its days of obscurity, had all along to do 
with great folk. Almost every line of our 
kings has had a home in this Thames-side neigh- 
bourhood, a distinction dating from before the 
Conquest. Both Kew and Richmond began 
parochial life as dependencies of Kingston, the 
Kings town that once made a chief seat of 
Saxon princes, whose coronation stone bears 
record in its market-place. The manor, included 
with that of Sheen the modern Richmond 
was held by the Crown at Doomsday. For a 
time it seems to have passed into the hands of 
subjects, but there are hints of the first Edwards 
having a country home at Sheen. Edward III. 
certainly died at a palace said to have been 
built by him here. Richard II.'s first queen, 
Anne of Bohemia, also died at Sheen, to her 
husband's so great grief that he cursed the build- 
ing in the practical form of ordering it to be 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 3 

destroyed. Henry IV. left it in ruins, and is 
said to have had a house at Isleworth across the 
river ; but by his son Sheen was restored to 
royal state. While Henry VII. occupied it, 
the palace was destroyed by fire ; then in re- 
building it, this king changed its name to Rich- 
mond after his Yorkshire earldom, itself another 
of the beauty-spots of the kingdom. Yet the 
old name, probably a cousin of the German 
scJuJn, long fitly lingered in poetry " Thy hill, 
delightful Sheen ! " is Thomson's invocation 
and it still survives in East Sheen, which, once 
a hamlet of Richmond, like Kew, now begins to 
count rather as a suburb of London. Sheen 
House here had a later connection with quasi- 
royalty, as it was for a time occupied by the 
Count de Paris, heir of the Orleans family, that 
has hereabouts found other temporary refuges. 

In Henry VIII. 's reign, the Crown gained a 
new seat in this neighbourhood, Hampton Court, 
too pretentious monument of Wolsey's pride. 
At the first signs of the storm that was to 
wreck him, the swelling Churchman took in sail 
by giving up his palace to the king, who in re- 
turn allowed him quarters in one of the royal 
lodges at Richmond, from which, as the king's 



4 KEW GARDENS 

displeasure deepened, he was banished, first to 
Esher, finally to his archiepiscopal northern 
diocese. Within the hunting-park formed by 
Henry about Hampton, was a lodge at Han- 
worth that became the home of his wife 
Catherine Parr, when she had the luck to be 
his widow. 

One most picturesque figure in English history 
must have been familiar with Kew, though 
its name does not appear in the sad story of 
fair, wise and pious Lady Jane Grey, the " nine 
days' queen." On the spindle side, she was 
grand -daughter of Charles Brandon, Duke of 
Suffolk, married to Henry VIII.'s sister Mary, 
through whom came her heritage of peril. Her 
father, Marquis of Dorset, was created Duke of 
Suffolk, and succeeded to Suffolk House at 
Sheen. The scene of Roger Ascham's notable 
visit to the studious princess was Bradgate in 
Leicestershire; but part of her youth would 
probably be spent at Suffolk House. The boy 
husband provided for her, Guildford Dudley, 
was son of a neighbour across the river, the 
crafty and ambitious Duke of Northumberland, 
who had secured Syon House here as a share of 
Church plunder first granted to the Protector 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 5 

Somerset. On Edward VI.'s death, not without 
suspicion of poison, Northumberland kept the 
event secret for three days, in hope of being able 
to seize the princesses Mary and Elizabeth, 
before carrying out his plot to put Jane and her 
newly wedded husband on the throne. It seems 
to have been at Syon that the reluctant queen 
was informed of the part she had to play ; and 
thence she was taken by water to the Tower, in 
which she would find a heavenly crown. 

Both Mary and Elizabeth lived from time to 
time at Richmond, recommended by its nearness 
to London, and by the river that made a royal 
highway in that age of bad roads. Here Eliza- 
beth died, and from her death-bed Sir Robert 
Carey spurred through thick and thin to carry 
news of his inheritance to the King of Scots. 
James I. was not the man to neglect such a 
good hunting country ; early in his reign we find 
the Courts of Law and all seated for a time at 
Richmond, when driven out of London by the 
plague. But Hampton Court up the river, as 
Greenwich below, seems to have been preferred 
for the king's residence ; then that lover of the 
chase found a paradise more to his mind in 
Theobald's Park, near Enfield, for which he 



6 KEW GARDENS 

exchanged Hatfield with the Salisbury family ; 
and this became his favourite abode. Richmond 
he gave to be the home of his son Henry, who 
from it dates a pretty letter to the Dauphin of 
France, all the twelve -year- old boy's own 
composition, we are told, for the learned father 
would let him have no help. Prince Henry 
might not have been pleased to hear all that was 
said of him in the French nursery, where little 
Louis asked about his correspondent "Is he 
called the Prince of Wales (Galles] because he is 
mangy (galeux] ? " 

Monsieur and Brother, Having heard that you begin 
to ride on horseback, I believed that you would like to 
have a pack of little dogs, which I send you, to witness 
the desire I have that we may be able to follow the foot- 
steps of the kings, our fathers, in entire and firm friendship, 
also in this sort of honourable and praiseworthy recreation. 
I have begged the Count de Beaumont, who is returning 
there, to thank in my name the king your father, and you 
also for so many courtesies and obligations with which I 
feel myself overcharged, and to declare to you how much 
power you have over me, and how much I am desirous 
to find some good occasion to show the readiness of my 
affection to serve you, and for that, trusting in Him, I 
pray God, 

Monsieur and brother, to give you in health long and 
happy life. Your very affectionate brother and servitor, 

HEXRY. 
RICHMOND, 23rd October 1605. 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 7 

This prince, we know, died young, according 
to one tradition through rash bathing in the 
Thames ; but a modem physician has diagnosed 
the indications of his illness as typhoid fever. 
Richmond then passed to his brother Charles, 
who was much at home here and at Hampton 
Court. He, as king, made a new enclosure, the 
present Richmond Park, a hunting-ground nine 
miles round, formed by somewhat high-handed 
expropriations recalling the harsher dealings of 
William Rufus with the New Forest, and going 
to make up this king's unpopularity. When 
poor Charles himself had been hunted down, the 
royal abode at Richmond was sold to one of the 
regicides, Sir Gregory Norton, the new Great 
Park being given over by Parliament to the 
citizens of London, who, at the Restoration, 
restored this gift to Charles II. with a courtly 
declaration that they had kept it as stewards of 
his Majesty. The Park was now put under 
a Ranger; and the Palace fell into neglect, 
though, according to Burnet, James II.'s son, the 
Pretender, was nursed in it. Nothing of its old 
state remains but the Gateway on Richmond 
Green, above which may be traced the arms of 
England, as borne by Henry VII. The adjacent 



8 KEW GARDENS 

row of houses, still known as the "Maids of 
Honour," also the cheesecakes of that ilk, appear 
to record the later day when Queen Caroline's 
home at Richmond was so cramped as not to 
allow of her ladies "living in." 

As Richmond decayed, Hampton Court 
flourished in royal favour; and Cromwell, in 
his days of mastery, made bold with its ample 
accommodations. Its canals and garden took 
the fancy of Dutch William, who in England 
felt most at home here. His fatal accident he 
met with while riding in its park; and in the 
palace was born the only one of Queen Anne's 
many children who grew towards any hope of 
the crown. George I. was a good deal at 
Hampton Court, it being recorded of him that 
on his way to London he used to make his 
carriage drive slowly through Brentford, for 
which he had an admiration shared by few 
beholders. 

George II. as Prince of Wales, acquired for 
his wife another seat in this princely countryside, 
buying from the Duke of Ormond a house in 
the Old Deer Park beyond Kew Gardens, which, 
re-christened Richmond Lodge, made a royal 
home at intervals for nearly half a century. 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 9 

Richmond was looked on as Queen Caroline's 
property, the expensive improvements on it 
supposed to be paid out of her private purse, 
though, if we may trust Horace Walpole, one of 
his father's ways of securing her favour was to 
draw from the King's close-buttoned pocket, on 
the sly, for this purpose. After the death of 
the managing Queen, Richmond was little used, 
but for a weekly visit from the Court. Every 
Saturday in summer, says that mocking Horace, 
" they went in coaches and six in the middle of 
the day, with the heavy Horse Guards kicking up 
the dust before them, dined, walked an hour in 
the garden, returned in the same dusty parade ; 
and His Majesty fancied himself the most gallant 
and lively prince in Europe." It had been 
his wife's favourite residence; and there Scott 
should surely have put her interview with Jeanie 
Deans ; but he seems to mistake in placing 
Richmond Lodge within the present Park, 
whereas it was on low land beside the river, 
where now stands the Observatory; then to reach 
it from London the Duke of Argyll would 
never have taken his horses up Richmond Hill 
merely by way of gratifying the dairymaid with 
a fine view, which after all, appealed most to 



10 KEW GARDENS 

her taste as "braw rich feeding for the cows." 
Sir Walter must have had the White Lodge in 
view, yet without considering that it is half 
an hour's walk from the Richmond Hill edge 
of the Park. 

George II. and Caroline sometimes lived at 
Hampton Court, as when their eldest son gave 
them deadly offence by secretly carrying off his 
wife thence to lie-in at St. James's. And it 
was there that, in Frederick William fashion, 
the King once struck his eldest grandson, a 
memory that is said to have given George III. 
his dislike to this palace. He let it fall to its 
present position as a mixture of Cockney show- 
place and aristocratic almshouse, while he much 
affected Richmond Lodge, till he got possession 
of his boyhood's home at Kew. 

So at last we come to the Kew mansion, 
whose connection with royalty was comparatively 
a late one, and lasted only for two generations. 
The reader must bear in mind that this was not 
the present Kew Palace, which hardly seems to 
deserve such a title of pretence. The latter had 
belonged to Dudley, Earl of Leicester, and was 
sold by him to Sir Hugh Portman, a rich 
Holland merchant, who rebuilt or altered it in 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 11 

the Dutch style, so that it was commonly known 
as the Dutch House. By some local inquirers 
it has been identified with the " Dairy House " 
also mentioned in old books. Opposite this, on 
the other side of a public road, in the seventeenth 
century stood a larger mansion, Kew House, as 
to the original date of which one is not clear, 
but it may have been at least on the site of a 
mansion at which her Lord Keeper, Sir John 
Puckering, entertained Queen Elizabeth. Under 
Charles II., when Evelyn calls it an "old timber 
house," it came by marriage to Sir Henry Capel 
of the Essex family, afterwards Lord Capel, who 
died Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. From his 
widow, it passed into possession of Samuel 
Molyneux, described as secretary to George II., 
soon after whose death, in 1730, it was taken on 
a long lease by Frederick Prince of Wales. 

Thus the obscure name of Kew began to 
appear in the scandalous chronicles of the 
Georgian period. Frederick's parents, it will 
be remembered, were much at the neighbouring 
Richmond Lodge ; and when Queen Caroline 
took a lease of the Dutch House also, this not 
very affectionate royal family had a group of 
residences too close together, one might think, 



12 KEW GARDENS 

for their comfort. The official guide states that 
at one time Frederick, too, must have occupied 
the Dutch House, as shown by his cipher and 
the device of Prince of Wales's feathers on the 
locks ; but I can find no mention of his living 
here in memoirs of the period. It may be that 
he had it for a time before his marriage ; but the 
other was the house occupied by him as a family 
man, and by his widow after him. 

There is some mystery about the origin of the 
extraordinary ill-will shown both by George II. 
and Caroline towards their heir, a feeling 
surpassing the antipathy between father and son 
that made an heirloom in this family for genera- 
tions. The King tried to keep Frederick from 
coming to England ; then, later on, he was half- 
willing to cut off Hanover from the English 
Crown that it might be bestowed upon his 
favourite, William of Cumberland. The eldest 
son he usually abused as a puppy, a fool, a beast, 
and by other such elegant epithets ; while the 
Queen, if we are to believe Lord Hervey, offered 
once to give him her opinion in writing "that 
my dear first-born is the greatest ass and the 
greatest liar, and the greatest canaille, and the 
greatest beast in the whole world, and that I 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 13 

most heartily wish he was out of it" Yet, when 
father and son were not on speaking terms, all 
the family lived together at St James's, till, after 
the birth of the Prince's first child, he was turned 
out at short notice to take refuge at Kew, and 
at makeshift London residences which became in 
turn the head-quarters of the Opposition. One 
would suppose that in the country those cat-and- 
dog neighbours might have chosen to have at 
least a river between them ; but at Kew they 
were separated only by a road. 

Kew House, then, began to figure in history 
as the country-seat of the Prince of Wales. 
Frederick was by no means a model husband 
nor a princely man ; but he had affection and 
respect for his wife, the Princess Augusta of 
S axe- Got ha, and they at least lived decently 
together. Here were in part brought up their 
children : George III. ; Edward, Duke of York, 
who died abroad in 1767 ; William Henry, Duke 
of Gloucester, who lived to 1805 ; Henry, Duke of 
Cumberland, who, as well as the last-mentioned, 
came into disfavour through a mesalliance; Prince 
Frederick and Princess Louisa, who both died 
young ; and Caroline Matilda, who married the 
worthless King of Denmark, and had a miserable 



14 KEW GARDENS 

end. Horace Walpole sneers at Frederick's 
desire to name his children from heroes of 
English history, not always with his father's 
approval ; but this trait goes to show the Prince's 
aspirations to be a patriotic king. He is said to 
have taken the " Black Prince " as a model he 
got no chance of following, perhaps as well for 
his possible subjects ; but the scanty records of 
his career suggest rather one of Browning's 
characters : 

All that the old Dukes were without knowing it, 
This Duke would fain know he was without being it. 

During the married life of Frederick and 
Augusta, the memoirs of the time give slight 
and sometimes rather spiteful hints of their 
doings at Kew, as to which, indeed, Lord 
Hervey's caustic pen has no worse to tell than 
that they walked three or four hours daily in the 
lanes and fields about Richmond, with a scandal- 
blown lady-in-waiting and a dancing-master for 
company. The Prince was much given to 
private theatricals, but also to athletic games, 
among them such innocent ones as rounders, 
tennis, and base-ball, the last not yet banished 
across the Atlantic. The dog given to him by 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 15 

Pope is remembered by the couplet inscribed on 
its collar : 

I am His Highness's dog at Kew, 
Pray tell me, sir, whose dog are you ? 

This poet -neighbour boasted himself not a 
follower but a friend of His Highness, who did 
not want for two-legged dogs wagging their tails 
to him in town and country, on the speculation 
that his father's death might any day change 
the tap of honour and profit. But all such 
expectations were nipped short In March 
1751 the Prince caught cold at Kew, and had 
symptoms of pleurisy. Supposed to be out of 
danger, he went back to Kew, where he walked 
about like a convalescent ; but the same night, 
after returning to town, showed signs of a fresh 
chill. Again he seemed to be on the mend, then 
suddenly one evening was seized with a violent fit 
of coughing. " Je sens la mort ! " he exclaimed, 
and these were his last words. It proved that 
a tumour had burst, produced either by a fall 
or by a blow from a tennis ball three years 
before. 

"Thus," says Horace Walpole, "died 
Frederick, Prince of Wales, having resembled 
his pattern the Black Prince in nothing but in 



16 KEW GARDENS 

dying before his father." He appears to have 
been not unpopular with the mob, as princes are 
apt to be who make the money fly ; but history 
has no good to tell of him, unless one kindly 
act in his intercession for Flora Macdonald. 
Scholars and divines duly lamented him with 
overdone effusions in the Tu Marcellus eris vein ; 
but these crocodile tears of the Muses are less 
well-remembered than that uncourtly epitaph 
that seems to have better expressed the not 
even lukewarm loyalty of the first Georgian 
generation : 

Here lies Fred 

Who was alive and is dead. 

Had it been his father, 

I had much rather. 

Had it been his brother, 

Still better than another. 

Had it been his sister, 

No one would have missed her. 

Had it been the whole generation, 

Still better for the nation. 

But since 'tis only Fred, 

Who was alive and is dead, 

There's no more to be said. 

George II. behaved at first not unkindly to 
his widowed daughter-in-law and grandchildren. 
He visited the bereaved family, throwing off 
royal ceremonial, kissed them, wept with them, 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 17 

and gave the princes good advice : " They must 
be brave boys, obedient to their mother, and 
deserve the fortune to which they were born." 
Horace Walpole remarks in his malicious way 
that the King, who had never acted the tender 
father, grew so pleased with playing the part of 
grandfather that he soon became it in earnest. 
For the moment, natural good-feeling reigned in 
the families that had been such bad neighbours. 
The Opposition was crushed by the death of its 
patron, the Prince ; and the discordant place- 
hunters of the day let themselves be tuned to 
a comparative harmony of interest under the 
Pelham brothers, who now had all their own 
way. Later on there sprang up fresh clouds 
between Kew and Kensington, the respective 
horizons of the rising and of the setting sun. 
For a little, Prince George appears to have lived 
with his grandfather at Hampton Court; but 
they did not take to each other, and the boy 
went back under his mother's wing. 

The first care of the King and the Ministry 
was to appoint instructors for the young Princes, 
an important choice in the case of the Heir to 
the Crown. The Governor appointed was Lord 
Harcourt, who "wanted a governor himself," 



18 KEW GARDENS 

says Horace Walpole, and sneers at him as unfit 
to "teach the young Prince any arts but what 
he knew himself hunting and drinking." For 
Preceptor was chosen the Bishop of Norwich. 
Under these figure-heads were the tutors who 
should be about the royal children and do the 
actual work of education. Stone, the sub- 
governor, was a personal favourite of the King, "a 
dark, proud man, very able and very mercenary. 
As sub -preceptor, or real schoolmaster, was 
kept on Mr. Scott, who had already been chosen 
by the Princess to teach her sons, when she 
found that at eleven Prince George could not 
read English. Of him, in old age, George III. 
spoke highly, and seems to have liked him best 
of all his instructors. But he was suspected in 
some quarters as recommended by Bolingbroke, 
the author of that "patriot -king" theory so 
abhorrent to Whigs. 

The question of the Regency had to be settled, 
in case of the King's death before his grandson 
came of age. That high office might have fallen 
to George II.'s brother, the Duke of Cumberland, 
between whom and his sister-in-law, the Princess 
of Wales, no love was lost ; nor was he beloved 
by the nation, least of all by the Jacobites. 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 19 

Horace Walpole tells a story of Prince George 
visiting his uncle. " To amuse the boy, he took 
down a sword and drew it. The young Prince 
turned pale and trembled, and thought his uncle 
was going to murder him." There were others 
who judged the " Butcher " quite capable of 
altering the succession on mediaeval precedent, 
in which party spirit was unjust to this Prince, 
not so black or so bloodthirsty as he was painted 
in the hatreds of the time. To the satisfaction 
of most people, but not of the Duke, the future 
King's mother was appointed Regent under 
control of a council ; and her father-in-law allowed 
her to act as guardian of her children. 

A lady, who any day might thus become the 
chief personage in the State, would not lack 
courtiers in a generation of politicians more 
concerned about interest than principle. Among 
her special friends came to be noted John Stuart, 
Earl of Bute, that unpopular bogy of the next 
reign. Their intimacy did not fail to pass for 
scandalous ; but the Archangel Gabriel himself 
would hardly have escaped scandal had he moved 
in Court society of the period. Bute had been a 
favourite and boon companion of the Prince, 
and remained a close counsellor of the widow, 



20 KEW GARDENS 

especially in the matter of bringing up her 
sons. Another matter influenced by him was 
the development of Kew Gardens, he himself 
taking a strong interest in botany and horti- 
culture ; but the Gardens may best be treated 
apart from the royal residences. 

The best-founded reproach made against the 
Princess is that she brought up George III. and 
his brothers in strict seclusion, entirely under 
her influence and Bute's. A careful mother's 
excuse might well be the manners of the 
fashionable world. Bubb Doddington, admitted 
to walks and talks with her in Kew Gardens, 
reports her as anxious to keep the future King 
out of bad society, and not knowing where to find 
good companions for him among the dissipated 
nobility. Our age can sympathise with this 
desire more than did the factious scandalmongers 
of the period, who soon raised a cry that the 
Princes were being trained in principles of 
arbitrary power. To Doddington the Princess 
protested that she did not interfere with her 
son's teachers. Between the contradictory state- 
ments of friends and foes, it is difficult to judge 
how far she was sincere in such professions ; but 
it is clear that George loved her as sons of that 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 21 

house have not always loved their parents. Later 
on, he was thought to have grown a little im- 
patient under the yoke of this masterful mother. 
Before long the staff of preceptors fell all by 
the ears, the high officials quarrelling with the 
sub-tutors, who were understood to be in more 
favour with the mother. The former complained 
of Stone as taking too much on himself ; and as 
for Scott, Horace Walpole tells a wicked story 
of the Bishop turning him out of the Prince's 
Chamber " by an imposition of hands that had 
at least as much of the flesh as of the spirit." 
What brought these jars to light was the Bishop 
finding in the Prince of Wales's hands a French 
book written to justify James II.'s measures, 
an offence which Stone tried to palliate by 
making out that this Jacobite treatise had been 
lent the Prince by his sister, to whom, one 
understands, it would do no such great harm. 
The end of it was that both Governor and 
Preceptor resigned their offices, replaced by Lord 
Waldegrave and the Bishop of Peterborough, 
who appear to have got on for a time more 
smoothly with the subordinate instructors, as 
with the family. The new Bishop, said their 
mother, gave great satisfaction, and the children 



22 KEW GARDENS 

took to him. Lord Waldegrave, by his own 
account, became no favourite with his most 
important pupil, and had a poor opinion of him. 
His Memoirs scout the Princess's professions 
that she did not interfere in the boys' education. 
The preceptors had little influence, he says ; 
"the mother and the nursery always prevailed." 
The Prince he sets down as obstinate, sulky, 
too stingy and too self-righteous for his years. 
George, for his part, is afterwards found recalling 
this Governor as a " depraved, worthless man." 

What seems most certain as to George III.'s 
education is that he learned very little from 
books, not even to spell, but that he came to 
speak French and German, and that he allowed 
his mother and her friend, if not his tutors, to 
stamp the theory that a king of England should 
not only reign but govern, upon a nature that 
proved wax to receive and marble to retain such 
impressions. The mother spoke of George as a 
good, dutiful boy, rather serious in his disposition 
than otherwise, but a little wanting in spirit. 
Whether at her apron-string he grew up sly as 
well as shy and sleepy, is a question raised by 
the story of his youthful amour with a Quakeress 
named Hannah Lightfoot, which makes the plot 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 28 

of one of Besant's novels ; but it is hard now to tell 
the truth of it. The idea one gets of this King's 
youth suggests Blifil rather than Tom Jones. 
All the other sons turned out more like Tom 
Jones, while " insipid " was an epithet applied to 
young George, who would yet develop a strongly- 
flavoured character. His moral courage and pluck 
came to be well proved in several trying predica- 
ments ; and at the opening of the Seven Years' 
War, he showed spirit by demanding to serve 
in the Army, to the King's jealous displeasure. 

We need not rake up all the scandals that 
echoed about the quiet household at Kew. The 
Whigs went on sounding an alarm that the 
Prince of Wales was brought up in Jacobite 
principles, a particular hullabaloo being raised 
by a charge that his tutor Stone had drunk 
the Pretender's health twenty years back, in 
company with Murray, better known as Lord 
Mansfield. The chief reproach against Bute, as 
yet, seems to have been his easily supposed 
illicit relations with the Princess, of which there 
is no proof. It was after the accession, rather, 
that he came to be pilloried as having laid him- 
self out to heighten the Prince's notion of the 
prerogative. There can be no doubt that he had 



24 KEW GARDENS 

a great part in moulding the future King's 
mind, and that they were really fond of each 
other. It is said that they took an incognito 
tour together through England, and as far as 
Edinburgh and the Isle of Bute. 

At eighteen, when the Prince was considered 
fit to have done with tutors, in the new household 
formed for him, Waldegrave being shunted as a 
persona ingrata, the Kew influence availed to 
have Bute made his official mentor as Groom of 
the Stole. The King offered him quarters at 
Kensington, with a royal allowance ; but the lad 
declared that he would stick to his mother, 
which seems only a way of speaking, as by this 
time he had a home of his own at Saville House 
in Leicester Fields. He was at Kew, at all 
events, when, starting for London on horseback 
one morning, he met a messenger with the news 
of George II.'s sudden death, confirmed presently 
by the appearance of the Prime Minister's 
carriage on its way westwards to the new 
fountain of power and pensions. 

We know with what fair prospects George III. 
ascended the throne, "glorying in the name of 
Briton," as Bute is said to have prompted him in 
addressing a people of whom the majority would 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 25 

rather consider their king as born an Englishman. 
A true John Bull he proved to be in his sense of 
duty, in his narrow outlook, and in his pig-headed 
obstinacy. Too soon the sky clouded over this 
well-meaning Prince, who took pains to repair 
the deficiencies of his education, and had his 
character quickly developed in the light that 
pours upon a throne. The lessons of Kew had 
not been thrown away upon him. That un- 
official tutor, hitherto kept behind the scenes, 
became his open counsellor, and presently Prime 
Minister, till overthrown by blasts of popular 
indignation excited against the unconstitutional 
politician, the slandered favourite, and the 
ambitious Scot, who made a magnet for drawing 
crowds of his hungry countrymen to the source 
of patronage. The young King shared the 
unpopularity of his adviser. He fell out with 
nobles and statesmen ; from the mob his carriage 
had to be guarded by prize-fighters. And in the 
irony of fate, the cry of liberty swelled loudest 
round an unprincipled libertine, who, taking to 
patriotism as "the last refuge of a scoundrel," 
quickly rose to be the idol of the mob, and made 
his fortune out of the cause in which he after- 
wards boasted that he never believed. " I never 

4 



26 KEW GARDENS 

was a Wilkesite," said Wilkes ; but poor George 
was at least honest in his notions of governing. 
It looks like a satire on the British Constitution 
that our most virtuous and well-meaning kings 
have usually been those who did us most mischief. 
At that time a puppet would have been more 
welcome than a patriot king, but not a puppet 
whose wires were pulled by Bute. 

One thing cannot be denied by his worst 
enemies, that this king made an honest effort to 
rule himself, to lead a clean, simple and wholesome 
life, which did so much in the end to win back 
respect for royalty among the respectable classes. 
At the outset of his reign he seems ready to 
have married for love of the bewitching siren, 
Lady Sarah Lennox, who took care to be seen 
making hay on the lawn of Holland House, as 
the young king rode by on the road to Kew. 
But that mock- Arcadian romance was nipped in 
the bud by his managing mother, who made 
haste to look out a wife for him among the 
Protestant princesses of Germany. George 
" sighed as a lover, but obeyed as a son." Lady 
Sarah, great-grand-daughter of Charles II. as she 
was, had to content herself with serving as brides- 
maid to the new queen. She soon got over 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 27 

her disappointed ambition, marrying twice and 
dying at a good old age as mother of the famous 
soldier - brothers Napier. It is a touching 
coincidence that her old age was afflicted by 
blindness, like her royal sweetheart's, who in his 
last days appears to have recalled or imagined 
an earlier passion for Lady Elizabeth Spencer, 
afterwards Countess of Pembroke. 

The royal bride chosen was Princess Charlotte 
of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, a girl of seventeen, who 
for more than half a century gave a new tone 
to English society. After a little flutter of 
gaiety natural in her position, she entered upon 
a life of dignified propriety and domesticity with 
a husband who won her heart as well as her 
hand, and George, whatever wild oats he may 
or may not have sown, made a constant husband 
to his rather plain bride. This model couple 
agreed in the simple tastes at which worldly 
courtiers sneered. St. James's Palace they kept 
as a stage for State functions ; and they made 
little use of Windsor in the first years of the 
reign. For the "Queen's House" was bought 
the Duke of Buckingham's red-brick mansion on 
the site of what is now Buckingham Palace ; 
and out of town the King lived a good deal at 



28 KEW GARDENS 

Richmond Lodge, also given to the Queen, 
where perhaps his mother still liked to keep 
him near her. Every evening, it appears, King 
and Queen dutifully visited that domineering 
princess either at Kew, or at her London 
residence, Leicester House. Carlton House, 
afterwards given to the next Prince of Wales, 
was also hers ; and at one or other of these she 
lived "in a privacy that exceeded economy." 
That is Horace Walpole's reproach, who speaks 
of her as avaricious, but does not give the Dowager 
credit for paying off her husband's debts, nor for 
her liberal charities. Her worst fault seems to 
have been a masterful temper that expressed 
itself in the lesson imprinted on her son's softness, 
" George, be a king ! " 

Richmond Lodge soon proving too small for 
the growing royal family, George III. proposed 
to build a new palace for himself in Richmond 
Gardens, near the river opposite Syon House. 
The design is still preserved, and the work was 
actually begun; but a hitch occurred in the 
obstinacy of the Richmond people, who refused 
to sell the King a piece of ground he wanted 
to round off his demesne. Then the Princess 
Dowager, when her other sons left the nest, 



ROYAL RESIDENCES 29 

gave up Kew House to George and Charlotte, 
taking for herself the "Dutch House" across 
the way, till her death, not long afterwards; 
and when the lease ran out, it was bought for 
the Queen. The larger mansion had also been 
acquired, the royal family thus, from tenants, 
coming to be owners of both houses. 

The smaller house the present Kew Palace 
was kept up by them with a separate establish- 
ment, at first used as the royal nursery, later on 
for the education of the older sons : and for a 
time it came to be known as the Prince of 
Wales's House. Even then there was not 
accommodation for the dozen or so of youngsters 
who spent much of their childhood at Kew ; and 
we hear of the King leasing or buying houses 
on Kew Green, where his flock of princes and 
princesses could be brought up in good air, the old 
Kew House serving always as the family rendez- 
vous. In the grounds, towards the Richmond 
Park side, Charlotte built the picturesque 
"Queen's Cottage," where this industrious lady 
would ply her needle with her children about 
her, while the King read aloud, often from 
Shakespeare, for whom he professed a truly 
British admiration, though, as he told Miss 



30 KEW GARDENS 

Burney, the great poet's works contained " much 
sad stuff only one must not say so !" 

At the beginning of George III.'s reign, the 
present Kew Palace is found described as 
" Princess Amelia's House," so George II.'s old- 
maid daughter, whose proposed marriage with 
Frederick the Great fell through, as Carlyle 
has told at length, must have lived here for a 
time ; but she soon moved to Gunnersbury, not 
far off. This wilful Princess Amelia, who had 
faults and merits of her own, held the office of 
Ranger of Richmond Great Park, that brought 
her into collision with the public. She tried 
to keep the gates shut against both gentle 
and simple, but found that she was living in 
a free country, when one Lewis, a Richmond 
brewer, took the lead in an action for right-of- 
way, which would have gone against her, had 
George II. not anticipated the result by throw- 
ing the Park open. 

Having thus marked out all the royal resid- 
ences in and about Kew, let us next fix our 
attention on Kew House during the period when 
it was the favourite residence of George III. 




THE QUEEN'S COTTAQE 



II 

KEW IN FAVOUR 

THE chief memories of Kew are associated 
with its royal master who, by his doings here, 
earned the nickname of "Farmer George," 
in his unpopular days also belittled as the 
" Buttonmaker," a sneer at his turning -lathe, 
and the taste for other mechanical pursuits 
which he shared with Louis XVI. The 
" Squire of Kew " is a title that would have 
suited him better ; and he might have lived 
more happily and usefully had his station been 
no higher than that which he here affected. 
When he could get away from State functions 
and cares, not indeed neglected by him, he liked 
to live at Kew as a simple country gentleman, 
keeping a pack of hounds, superintending a 
model farm, improving his grounds, looking 
after his children, walking out with his wife, 

31 



32 KEW GARDENS 

and not wasting his money. As the homely 
and frugal ways of this royal couple gave 
offence not only to dissipated courtiers, who 
felt themselves rebuked, but to the mob, 
always apt to be a snob, " meanly admiring 
mean things," the caricaturists and lampooners 
of the reign found abundant encouragement to 
make coarse fun of George's and Charlotte's 
domestic virtues as well as of their public 
offences. But one guesses that Gillray and 
Peter Pindar were not applauded by the King's 
neighbours at Kew. 

For some ten years, as we have seen, 
Richmond Lodge made his favourite country- 
seat ; and for about the same period he was 
most at home in Kew House. Then, after 
taking up their residence at Windsor, the royal 
family went on making longer or shorter visits 
to Kew, kept as a villeggiatura where they 
could be under less ceremony and restraint 
than in their statelier palaces. Their winter 
abode was usually Buckingham House. Not 
till George had been nearly twenty years on 
the throne did he care for living at Windsor. 
The castle itself had fallen so much out of 
repair, that a new "Queen's Lodge" was built 



KEW IN FAVOUR 33 

where now are the royal stables ; then this took 
the place of Kew as chief summer residence. 
When the Richmond people found they were 
like to lose such distinguished and profitable 
neighbours, they sorely repented their refusal 
to sell the bit of land coveted by the King, 
which was now pressed upon him, but too 
late to change his intention. That Naboth's 
vineyard was eventually taken into the royal 
grounds ; then by an Act of Parliament closing 
" Love Lane," a public way between them, 
George was able to unite the grounds of 
Richmond and Kew, which long, however, 
remained distinct enclosures. 

So George and Charlotte settled down, had 
a large family, and lived happily in private life, 
till fresh troubles came upon them. We should 
all know Thackeray's sly account of that life : 

King George's household was a model of an English 
gentleman's household. It was early ; it was kindly ; it 
was charitable; it was frugal; it was orderly; it must 
have been stupid to a degree which I shudder now to 
contemplate. No wonder all the princes ran away from 
the lap of that dreary domestic virtue. It always rose, 
rode, dined at stated intervals. Day after day was the 
same. At the same hour at night the King kissed 
his daughters' jolly cheeks ; the princesses kissed their 

5 



34 KEW GARDENS 

mother's hand ; and Madame Thielke brought the royal 
nightcap. At the same hour the equerries and women- 
in-waiting had their little dinner and cackled over their 
tea. The King had his backgammon or his evening 
concert ; the equerries yawned themselves to death in 
the anteroom ; or the King and his family walked on 
Windsor slopes, the King holding his darling little 
Princess Amelia by the hand; and the people crowded 
round quite good-naturedly; and the Eton boys thrust 
their chubby cheeks under the crowd's elbows; and the 
concert over, the King never failed to take his enormous 
cocked-hat off, and salute his band, and say, " Thank you, 
gentlemen ! " 

In the Memoirs of Mrs. Papendiek, whose 
husband and father were Court pages, and 
who was brought up at Kew, it is mentioned 
that during the " No Popery " riots the children 
were sent away to Kew, while the King stayed 
at his post in London, showing courage and 
spirit, but would ride down between four and 
seven in the morning for a peep at his darlings, 
brought up to their parents' early hours. 
Other reminiscences give glimpses of the royal 
domesticity and rusticity, not so dull to all 
tastes as to those of a man about town like 
Thackeray. One lad, John Rogers, who lived 
into Victoria's reign, remembered seeing the 
young King, shut out of Richmond Lodge after 



KEW IN FAVOUR 85 

a morning walk, tapping at the window in vain, 
till at last he contrived to open one and push 
himself in head foremost. In the country, 
George and Charlotte were up at six, and 
breakfasted with their children about them. 
They often dined with the children, too ; later 
on the King took to early dinners that 
scandalised his guests by the simplicity of 
mutton and turnips. His usual drink was a 
sort of lemonade known in the household as 
King's cup. In an age of intemperance and 
riots, he preferred sobriety, the morning dew, 
and the open air, with plenty of exercise to 
keep down his fat. The lucky children had 
all Kew Gardens to play in; and once a week 
the whole family made a regular promenade 
through the Richmond grounds. When he 
went further afield, George loved Paul -prying 
into the cottages of his poorer neighbours, 
showing an interest in their petty affairs, and 
pouring out upon them more questions than 
could be answered, such as that famous one, 
how the apple got into the dumpling ? 

Though the London mob, at different times, 
were insolent to both sovereigns, they never lost 
popularity at Kew. When they next visited it 



36 KEW GARDENS 

after the King's escape from assassination by a 
mad woman, the road over Kew Green was 
found crowded by all the inhabitants, "lame, 
old, sick, blind, and infants," with a band of 
musicians "who began God Save the King! 
the moment they came on the Green, and 
finished it with loud huzzas" a neighbourly 
demonstration that moved the Queen to tear- 
fully declaring, " I shall always love little Kew 
for this." 

George succeeded to his mother's interest in 
Kew Gardens, now enlarged and improved as will 
be told in another chapter. He also carried on 
a large home-farm that extended into the parish 
of Mortlake, while the Old Deer Park was 
turned into pasture for a flock of merino sheep 
which he imported into England. The young 
princes were brought up to the same tastes. 
Before getting into their teens, the two eldest 
had a plot of ground given them, where, a la 
Sandford and Merton, they planted a crop of 
corn, weeded, reaped, thrashed and ground it 
with their own hands, and saw it made into 
bread, of which the whole family duly partook. 
Up till our own time was standing in Kew 
Gardens a miniature structure said to have 



KEW IN FAVOUR 37 

been built by the princes as part of their 
apprenticeship to life. In the present Kew 
Palace are preserved specimens of their early 
writing, George's copy being Conscious Innocence, 
while Frederick traces very creditably the senti- 
ment, Aim at Improvement. 

It was not through parental indulgence if 
these boys grew to despise such innocent 
pursuits. Queen Charlotte taught them her- 
self in their ABC stage : and when they 
were given over to tutors, the order was that 
they should be treated like ordinary scholars, 
flogged if they deserved it, and so forth. The 
rod seems not to have been spared on him who 
was to become the Lord's anointed ; and his 
education in the classics prospered better than 
his father's. The notorious Dr. Dodd, who 
came to be hanged for forgery, was at one 
time proposed as the Prince of Wales's tutor. 
He was brought up with his next brother 
Frederick, who, till created Duke of York, 
bore in boyhood the foreign title of Bishop of 
Osnaburgh, and had been made a Knight of 
the Bath in the nursery. The little Bishop did 
not take kindly to books ; but in later life 
George IV. could pose as a scholar before the 



38 KEW GARDENS 

courtly wits about him ; even in his teens 
he corrected his Governor, Lord Bruce, on 
a false quantity, so mortifying the noble 
pedagogue that he gave in his resignation. 
There is another story, perhaps recorded by 
Signer Ben Trovato, that in the Prince's later 
life an uncourtly Provost of Eton mentioned 
Homer to him as "an author with whom 
your Royal Highness is probably not much 
acquainted," to which H.R.H. suavely replied 
that he had forgotten a good deal of his Homer, 
but remembered one line, and went on to quote 
//. i. 225, which, for readers in the same case 
as to Homer, may be rendered by Dryden's 
version, "Dastard and drunken, mean and 
insolent" epithets that too well fitted the 
rebuked pedant in question. 

The Eton boys of that day, for whom the 
summum supplidum, according to Henry Angelo's 
Memoirs, was not over six cuts of a birch, would 
appear to have been handled in less Spartan 
fashion than were the King's sons in their private 
schoolroom. The Princess Sophia told Miss 
Amelia Murray that she had seen her eldest 
brothers, at thirteen and fourteen, held by the 
arms to be flogged with a long whip. But once 



KEW IN FAVOUR 39 

the naughty boys are said to have turned 
against one of their severe masters, using upon 
him the rod he proposed for them. This story 
may have suggested a scene in Thackeray's 
Virginians, as it might have been prompted by 
one in Roderick Random, or a variant in The 
Fool of Quality, a very long and edifying 
romance of the Sandford and Merton school, 
which had a vogue at this period. The Queen 
held no high opinion of novel-reading ; and if 
her sons studied the works of Smollett, it would 
perhaps be on the sly, as must have been a good 
many doings in that family. 

We know how these carefully educated princes 
had more of Merton than of Sandford in their 
disposition ; then they soon found flatterers and 
courtiers to set them against their strict training, 
and to curry favour with a future sovereign. 
Childish mischief may excuse the freak of the 
boy Prince of Wales saluting his father with 
the hated cry of " Wilkes and Liberty ! " But 
it was a serious matter when the second son 
was precociously found playing the Don Juan 
with a cottage beauty. That scapegrace Bishop 
is accused of leading his elder brother into 
wrong-doings for which he perhaps needed no 



40 KEW GARDENS 

prompter. Their uncle, the Duke of Cumber- 
land, was another bad counsellor, who delighted 
in debauching his nephews out of ill will to the 
moral King. A worse companion, later on, 
would be the notorious Duke de Chartres, 
afterwards Egalite Orleans, who brought to 
London French -polished vices to exchange for 
English jockeyism. 

The Prince of Wales, like his father, was 
fond of music, and, if flattery may be trusted, 
made no despicable performer. Mrs. Papendiek, 
having the same tastes, can give us some 
glimpse of his hobbledehoy recreations. 

What with the goings on of the Prince of Wales at 
the Lodge, the fun with Fischer, the celebrated oboe player, 
and the various amusements in which I was engaged, the 
season was one of gaiety, mirth, and enjoyment. The 
well-known bet of five guineas between Bach and Fischer 
was made in the presence of his Royal Highness and of us 
all. The bet was that Fischer could not play his own 
minuet. He was a very nervous man, and after allowing 
him to get through a few bars, Bach stood before him 
with a lemon in his hand, which he squeezed so that the 
juice dropped slowly. Then he bit another so that the 
juice ran out of his mouth freely. Fischer tried once or 
twice to get rid of the water that must, on such a sight, 
fill the mouth ; but not being able to conquer the sensation, 
he was obliged to own himself beaten. . . . Another joke 
was played off upon poor Fischer this merrymaking season, 



KEW IN FAVOUR 41 

to this effect : After the concert, which Fischer attended 
twice a week at Richmond or at Kew, wherever the King 
and Queen were, he used eagerly to seize upon the supper 
before he went to London. Upon one occasion, the 
Prince came in and said, " I have ordered something that 
I know you like," a dish was brought in, and when the 
cover was lifted, out jumped a rabbit. Germans have a 
particular dislike to that animal in every shape and form ; 
therefore it is easy to conjecture poor Fischer's state of 
mind. This joke cost him only the loss of his supper, 
but many nights succeeded before he could be prevailed 
on to again enter the eating-room. 

Making a butt of a dependent seems no 
princely pastime ; but this lady has worse to 
tell us of the "First Gentleman in Europe's" 
amusements at the age of sixteen. " Much do 
I lament to add that some of those about the 
young princes swerved from principle, and in- 
troduced improper company when their Majesties 
supposed them to be at rest, and after the 
divines had closed their day with prayer." 

The first open scandal about the Prince was 
his intrigue with the unfortunate "Perdita" 
Robinson, who turned many a head beside his 
by her acting in The Winters Tale. We know 
very little about that episode except what the 
lady thinks fit to tell us in her Memoirs. The 
boy lover, not yet eighteen, was so closely kept 



42 KEW GARDENS 

at Kew that for some time he had to content 
himself with ardent letters. At length an 
interview was arranged under circumstances 
which suggest that the tutorial turnkeys must 
have been in the way of nodding over their port. 
Lord Maiden, who played Leporello in this 
amour, brought Perdita to an inn on the island 
between Kew and Brentford, to await the signal 
that should invite them to cross. 

The handkerchief was waved on the opposite shore ; 
but the signal was, by the dusk of the evening, rendered 
almost imperceptible. Lord Maiden took my hand, I 
stepped into the boat, and in a few minutes we landed 
before the iron gates of old Kew Palace. The interview 
was but of a moment. The Prince of Wales and the Duke 
of York (then Bishop of Osnaburg) were walking down 
the avenue. A few words, and those scarcely articulate, 
were uttered by the Prince, when a noise of people 
approaching from the palace startled us. The moon was 
now rising ; and the idea of being overheard, or of his 
Royal Highness being seen out at so unusual an hour, 
terrified the whole group. After a few more words of a 
most affectionate nature uttered by the Prince, we parted, 
and Lord Maiden and myself returned to the island. 
The Prince never quitted the avenue, nor the presence of 
the Duke of York, during the whole of this short meeting. 
Alas ! my friend, if my mind was before influenced by 
esteem, it was now awakened to the most enthusiastic 
admiration. The rank of the Prince no longer chilled 
into awe tbat being who now considered him as the lover 



KEW IN FAVOUR 43 

and the friend. The graces of his person, the irresistible 
sweetness of his smile, the tenderness of his melodious yet 
manly voice, will be remembered by me till every vision 
of this changing scene shall be forgotten. 

Repeated assignations, she says, followed " at 
this romantic spot," where now the party took 
courage to continue their walks till past mid- 
night. Prince Frederick and Lord Maiden, we 
are to know, were always there to play goose- 
berry. The lady wore a dark -coloured dress, 
and the gentlemen were disguised in great- 
coats, except that harum-scarum Bishop, who 
would make his companions uneasy by showing 
himself in an unclerical buff coat, "the most 
conspicuous colour he could have selected for 
an adventure of this nature." The tutors 
having got into their nightcaps by midnight, 
one supposes, these moonlight ramblers even 
ventured on a little music as the food of love, 
Frederick being the minstrel whose tones, 
"breaking on the silence of the night, have 
often appeared to my entranced senses like 
more than mortal melody." It is clear that 
Perdita does not tell the whole story. Mrs. 
Papendiek, well up in the gossip of the back- 
stairs, roundly asserts that two officials who 



44 KEW GARDENS 

had been about these princes from childhood, 
"privately overlooked the domestic vices and 
irregularities of their young charge," and that 
they smuggled Mrs. Robinson through a back 
gate to the Prince of Wales's apartments. 

The beautiful actress, who was a poetess, 
too, a ses heures, might well be dazzled by those 
shining personalities. The Prince vowed un- 
alterable love till death; and the most con- 
vincing of his billets-doux was a bond promising 
to pay Perdita 20,000 at his majority. Perhaps 
he was sincere for the moment; but we know 
what such callow vows come to. When, at 
eighteen, he became to some extent his own 
master, this unhappily married woman was 
taken into keeping, and for a time cut a 
notorious dash before the footlights of society. 
After Florizel grew tired of her, Perdita's 
gushing sentimentality did not overlook business- 
like considerations. She let the King buy up 
the Prince's letters for 5000 ; and his bond 
was commuted for a pension of 400. But, 
these profits swallowed up by debts and extra- 
vagant habits, the poor creature fell into bad 
health and hasty authorship. Paralysed and 
harassed, she died in 1800, buried by her own 



KEW IN FAVOUR 45 

desire, " for a particular reason," in Old Windsor 
Churchyard, where her tomb may be seen fenced 
in with spiked railings to defend it from the 
body-snatchers that infested those river -side 
graveyards ; and on it may be read an oft- 
quoted epitaph idealising the painful facts of 
her career. 

At Richmond lived Mrs. Fitzherbert, the 
Prince of Wales's more lasting flame, to whom 
he appears to have been honestly, if illegally, 
married. When this Prince was launched upon 
the wicked world, and the Bishop in partibus 
had been sent off to finish his education abroad, 
the royal pair still had their quiver full of 
youngsters, who for twenty years came so fast 
as to be cue for Horace Walpole's jesting 
prophecy that " London will be like the senate 
of old Rome, an assembly of princes." Besides 
others who died young, there were the princes 
afterwards known as Dukes of Clarence, Kent, 
Cumberland, Sussex, and Cambridge, and the 
Princesses Charlotte, Augusta, Mary, Elizabeth, 
Sophia, and little Amelia, the darling of her 
father. Where all these children were stowed 
away, one cannot always make out clearly : we 
hear of the Princes William and Edward living 



46 KEW GARDENS 

with their tutors in what is now Cambridge 
Cottage, and two of the younger boys in a 
house at the top of the Green. Lady Charlotte 
Finch, governess to the princesses, had a separate 
house near the river ; then another is spoken 
of as the "Princess Elizabeth's house." Kew 
House itself was a scrimply inconvenient 
mansion, for which the royal household made 
a tight fit even in its state of reduced cere- 
mony. Pictures of it when it was the Princess 
Dowager's villa, show a square, plain front with 
two one -storied wings, from which in all 
thirty-two windows look straight out upon the 
lawn. At that time it bore the alias of "The 
White House." Miss Burney describes it as 
a labyrinth of stairs and passages, where at first 
she continually lost herself among the "small, 
dark, and old-fashioned " rooms. 

It is in 1786 that a search-light comes to be 
turned upon this semi-private life by the diary 
of a then most popular novelist. At the end 
of the year before, Fanny Burney had been 
staying with her venerable friend, Mrs. Delaney, 
at Windsor, when one afternoon into the draw- 
ing-room walked, unannounced, a burly man in 
black with a star on his breast. Even the 



KEW IN FAVOUR 47 

short-sighted visitor hardly needed to be told 
who he was. As every one in the room drew 
back out of the way, she was for slipping off; 
but the King asked in a loud whisper, "Is 
that Miss Burney ? " and after good-naturedly 
giving her time to recover from her modest 
confusion, entered upon a conversation of 
questions, punctuated with what, whats, in 
which he showed himself very inquisitive as to 
how she had come to write and print Evelina. 
The Queen soon followed, to whom George 
introduced her by repeating their conversation ; 
and Miss Burney went to bed enraptured with 
her new acquaintances. Further interviews 
followed, which only increased her admiration, 
though the satirist rather than the courtier 
peeps out in her account of directions given her 
for behaviour in the presence of royalty. 

Her demeanour certainly gave satisfaction in 
the royal circle, for a few months afterwards she 
was offered the post of one of the Queen's 
dressers, which she accepted after some modest 
misgiving. We remember Macaulay's indigna- 
tion, " That with talents which had instructed 
and delighted the highest living minds, she should 
now be employed only in mixing snuff and in 



48 KEW GARDENS 

sticking pins ; that she should be summoned by 
a waiting -woman's bell to a waiting -woman's 
duties ; that she should pass her whole life under 
the restraints of a paltry etiquette, should some- 
times fast till she was ready to swoon for hunger, 
should sometimes stand till her knees gave way 
with fatigue, that she should not dare to speak or 
move without considering how her mistress might 
like her words and gestures." 

This engagement was certainly a mistake on 
both sides : Miss Burney might have found more 
congenial employment ; and the Queen could 
have had a better dresser. But Macaulay, after 
his manner, has rather over-emphasised the evils 
of her lot in the royal service. She certainly 
took it as a rise in the world, and to her father it 
seemed dazzling good fortune. The remunera- 
tion offered her, with the chance of further 
favour, might well have satisfied even successful 
novelists of that day, few among whom would not 
have jumped at such admission to the skirts of 
Court life. Her year's salary, 200, was almost 
as much as she got from her second novel, and 
far more than the proceeds of her first one ; then 
Macaulay slurs over the Queen's generosity in 
presents. To look at the matter in no mere terms 



KEW IN FAVOUR 49 

of pay, literature probably lost little by her 
laying down the pen for a time ; her best work 
had been done in Evelina ; Cecilia was a falling 
off; and Camilla, written after her experience of 
service, did not deserve the pecuniary success 
won for it, in part, by royal patronage. In her 
diary, Miss Burney herself makes little serious 
complaint but of the ill-tempered tyranny of 
her senior colleague, Mrs. Schwellenberg. Court 
life soon ceased to be a little heaven below for 
her ; but she had distractions in royal journeys 
to Oxford, Cheltenham, Weymouth, seats at the 
trial of Warren Hastings, glimpses of great folks, 
and even spells of moral flirtation with at least 
one gentleman of the household, not to speak of 
rather troublesome attentions from another who 
was a married man. She cannot say too much 
of the kindness of the King and the princesses ; 
and if her " sweet Queen " proved sometimes 
an inconsiderate mistress, it was from want of 
thought rather than a hard heart. The confine- 
ment upon which Macaulay lays such stress was 
no stricter than that of most domestic ladies, 
who had not Windsor Park and Kew Gardens to 
walk in. Had she been more robust, the novelist 
might have lived on to become a second Mrs. 



50 KEW GARDENS 

Delaney in the royal esteem. But her health 
broke down, and after five years' genteel servitude 
she retired on a pension of a hundred pounds.. 

During these years the Court had its summer 
head-quarters at Windsor. Every second week, 
the "Royals" spent from Tuesday to Friday 
at Kew, using this as a half-way house for 
St. James's, where on Thursdays the Queen held 
her fortnightly drawing - rooms. This was Miss 
Burney's hardest job. She had to be up at six 
on drawing - room days, with hardly time for 
breakfast, to help in dressing the Queen, who 
put on most of her finery at Kew, the " tippet 
and long ruffles " being carried in paper to save 
them from dust ; then the final touches were 
added at St. James's, where, after the function, 
the idol had to be undecked in all, three 
laborious attendances and two journeys, from 
which the tired keeper of the robes got back 
to dinner not till nearly seven o'clock, as then 
seemed a very late hour. 

In winter, when the Court moved to London, 
there would be no going to Kew, which indeed 
was not fitted up as a cold weather residence. 
When it came to be occupied for months during 
the King's illness, strips of carpet and sandbags 



KEW IN FAVOUR 51 

had to be provided to make the princesses 
tolerably comfortable. All the luxury of this 
house was outside, in its spacious gardens. But 
the want of state was made up for by the more 
home-like life of Kew, though that had also its 
disadvantages ; the ladies and gentlemen were 
not free to see their friends where the King and 
his younger children might at any time come 
wandering along the passages and poking into 
the small rooms. There was not even a chapel 
in the house; and when the Royal Family 
happened to spend a Sunday here by some 
chance, they heard prayers in a private room, 
through the door of another, where the chief 
attendants took their place, the servants being 
edified in an outer apartment, which reminds us of 
the complaint of one of Queen Anne's chaplains 
that he had " to whistle the Gospel through the 
keyhole." It was later that George III. fitted 
Kew Church with a gallery to serve as royal pew. 
Towards the end of 1788, this routine was 
painfully broken upon by the King's illness, 
which began during one of his temporary stays 
at Kew, prolonged then for more than a week, to 
the great discomposure of the household, ill- 
provided with clothes, or with books in Miss 



52 KEW GARDENS 

Burney's case. The cause of the attack was said 
to be His Majesty's sitting in wet stockings ; 
but for some time back signs of strangeness had 
been noted in him, who had enough to disorder 
his mind in the conduct of his eldest sons, and 
in his brooding over the loss of the American 
Colonies. Miss Burney's diary gives a vivid 
picture of those wretched days at Kew, when no 
one felt sure what to say, and some, like herself, 
hardly knew what to think of the rumours that 
filled the house. The King was noisy and 
voluble beyond his wont, talking himself hoarse 
in his assurances that there was not much the 
matter with him, mingled with complaints that 
he could not sleep. More than once Miss Burney 
found the Queen in tears. Charlotte had good 
reason for anxiety : she must have been aware of 
the character of a similar attack near the begin- 
ning of the reign, which had passed off so quickly 
that it could be hushed up. 

By October 25, George seemed so much 
better that he moved to Windsor, where his 
restlessness and weakness grew worse again. 
He obstinately insisted on going out to hunt 
as usual in the November weather, yet he had 
to confess that all at once he had become an 



KEW IN FAVOUR 53 

old man. A few days later there was a terrible 
commotion in the family. It leaked out that 
at dinner the King had broken into positive 
delirium, seizing his eldest son by the collar 
and pushing him against the wall. The Prince 
is said to have burst into tears, while the Queen 
had a fit of hysterics. Her husband could with 
difficulty be persuaded to spend the night in a 
separate room, from which all night long she 
heard his ravings, now no secret to any one in 
the house. 

The King's death being looked on as 
imminent, the Prince of Wales at once took 
command of the misery and confusion at 
Windsor. His heartless conduct during his 
father's illness is matter of history, as also the 
bitter struggle between his faction and Pitt's 
Ministry on the Regency question, the former 
maintaining the very unwhiggish doctrine that 
royal authority should pass, in the circumstances, 
into the Heir Apparent's hands, while the Tories 
would make him Regent only with the sanction 
of Parliament, and under restrictions. The 
rabble was now on the King's side ; and all 
respectable persons, not being partisans or 
place-hunters, were disgusted by the profligate 



54 KEW GARDENS 

Prince's conduct. The doctors attending the 
King had been threatened with popular violence 
if his illness proved fatal. Their case was a 
hard one, as not only would the royal patient 
not always take their remedies nor even see 
them, but they were treating a complaint then 
ill understood even by physicians who professed 
special experience in it It is said that poor 
George was put in a strait -waistcoat, chained 
to the wall, and actually struck by one of 
his keepers, which would be quite after the 
practice of that day. But the stories of his 
harsh treatment are somewhat dubious, for the 
notion that he was being ill-used often figured 
among his delusions. 

At the end of November the doctors deter- 
mined on removing him to Kew, where he could 
get exercise in the privacy of the Gardens. The 
King angrily refused to leave Windsor, and had 
to be coaxed away by a promise that he should 
see his wife and children, gone on before him. 
"Princes, equerries, physicians, pages all con- 
ferring, whispering, plotting and caballing, how 
to induce the King to set off!" noted Miss 
Burney, who accompanied her mistress on their 
hasty flitting to Kew House, where the Prince 



KEW IN FAVOUR 55 

of Wales had written in chalk over each room 
the name of its occupant. Everybody had to 
put up with the discomfort of being crowded 
together in that ill -furnished mansion. The 
only good rooms were given up to the King, 
those above being left empty that he might not 
be disturbed. Part of the household overflowed 
into the Prince of Wales's house opposite ; the 
younger children being lodged in their usual 
quarters on Kew Green. Pent up closely with 
"the Schwellenberg," Miss Burney had her full 
share of troubles ; but her womanly devotion 
rose to the occasion, and she declares that " not 
even the 20,000 prize in the lottery could, at 
this time, draw me from this melancholy scene." 
She had the satisfaction of being employed, 
every morning, to carry the physicians' report 
to the Queen, who, by her enemies, was accused 
of doctoring those bulletins to give the most 
favourable view of symptoms on which, for 
once, doctors differed. 

The Prince of Wales and his partisans 
listened rather to those big-wigs of the profes- 
sion that were most gravely shaken over a case 
they did not understand. They perhaps agreed 
best in looking askance on an outsider called in 



56 KEW GARDENS 

upon the removal to Kew. This was the Rev. 
Mr. Willis, who at Lincoln, and in a private 
asylum of his own, had shown the benefit of a 
more rational treatment of the insane. Though 
he had a medical degree, he was belittled as a 
quack by many members of a guild apt to 
suspect innovators ; but his success had been 
so notable that he was now employed, with his 
sons, trained in his methods, to be constantly 
about the King. From the first he took a 
hopeful view of the case ; and when, with 
occasional interference, he was allowed to have 
his way, it soon appeared that he was the right 
man in the right place. His secret seems to 
have been a mixture of kindness and firmness ; 
but perhaps he was not above using nostrums 
of his own. Mrs. Papendiek, whose husband 
was in attendance, says that one of the remedies 
used was musk, the smell of which the King 
could not bear, but the doctor insisted on it 
as efficacious. He took the responsibility of 
giving the King a razor to shave himself, for 
which he was afterwards denounced almost 
as compassing Lcse-majeste\ but on all such 
questions he stipulated for leave to go by his 
own experience and judgment. 



KEW IN FAVOUR 57 

Had this been in the era of newspaper 
kodaking, we should no doubt have fuller 
details of the King's madness, as to which 
more or less doubtful stories leak out in the 
memoirs and letters of the day. He is 
described as wanting to climb the Pagoda, and 
on being thwarted, throwing himself sulkily on 
the ground, from which it took four or five 
men three-quarters of an hour to raise him. 
Another day he tried to throw himself out 
of a window. The worst symptom was his 
incessant garrulity : he would go on talking 
for hours about everything or nothing. One 
of the doctors once found him translating the 
Court Calendar into doggerel Latin. The most 
pathetic story is that of his being overheard 
earnestly praying for his recovery. At times 
he showed touches of humour and shrewdness. 
He managed, though it had been forbidden, to 
get hold of a copy of King Lear, Dr. Willis 
not being strong in literature ; and when his 
elder daughters were first allowed to visit him, 
he told them " I am like poor Lear ; but thank 
God ! I have no Regan, no Goneril, but three 
Cordelias." Once he reproached Willis with 
having given up his sacred calling for profit ; 



58 KEW GARDENS 

and when the reverend doctor excused himself 
on the precedent of Christ healing demoniacs, 
"Yes," said the King, "but He did not get 
seven hundred a year for it ! " 

The Willises, by the way, afterwards com- 
plained of their remuneration, whatever it was ; 
but their treatment of George III. made an 
excellent advertisement for the family, one of 
whom was sent for to Lisbon in the case of a 
mad Queen of Portugal. They seem to have 
given some offence in the household by the 
position they had to assume. Great was 
flunkey indignation when four of Dr. Willis's 
keepers were raised to brevet -rank as pages, 
that after his recovery they might remain beside 
the King in case of a relapse. About that 
time several of the regular pages seem to have 
been dismissed or disgraced, it is said for carry- 
ing tales to the Prince of Wales. These 
"pages," of course, had now grown into adult 
servants above mere menial rank, such beardless 
boys as figure in history and romance being 
distinguished as " pages of honour." 

Poor Miss Burney was so worn out that 
one of the doctors, noticing her wan looks, 
insisted on her taking daily exercise, such as 




THE PAOOOA 



KEW IN FAVOUR 59 

was the prescription for the King. As the 
orders were to keep every one out of his way, 
she made a point of inquiring whether he 
would be in the Kew or the Richmond grounds ; 
but once there was a misunderstanding that 
led to the most violent agitation of her life. 
While tramping her constitutional round of 
Kew Gardens, through the trees she saw three 
or four figures, whom at first her short-sighted 
eyes took for workmen, till she was too late 
aware of His Majesty's person among them. 

Alarmed past all possible expression, I waited not 
to know more, but turning back, ran off with all 
my might. But what was my terror to hear myself 
pursued ! to hear the voice of the King himself loudly 
and hoarsely calling after me, " Miss Burney ! Miss 
Burney ! " 

I protest I was ready to die. I knew not in what 
state he might be at the time ; I only knew the orders 
to keep out of his way were universal ; that the Queen 
would highly disapprove any unauthorised meeting, and 
that the very action of my running away might deeply, 
in his present irritable state, offend him. Nevertheless, 
on I ran, too terrified to stop, and in search of some 
short passage, for the garden is full of little labyrinths, 
by which I might escape. 

The steps still pursued me, and still the poor hoarse 
and altered voice rang in my ears more and more foot- 
steps resounded frightfully behind me the attendants 
all running, to catch their eager master, and the voices 



60 KEW GARDENS 

of the two Doctor Willises loudly exhorting him not to 
heat himself so unmercifully. 

Heavens, how I ran! I do not think I should have 
felt the hot lava from Vesuvius at least not the hot 
cinders had I so run during its eruption. My feet 
were not sensible that they even touched the ground. 

Soon after, I heard other voices, shriller, though less 
nervous, call out " Stop ! stop ! stop ! " 

I could by no means consent ; I knew not what was 
purposed, but I recollected fully my agreement with 
Dr. John that very morning, that I should decamp if 
surprised, and not be named. 

My own fears and repugnance, also, after a flight and 
disobedience like this, were doubled in the thought of 
not escaping. I knew not to what I might be exposed, 
should the malady be then high, and take the turn of 
resentment. Still, therefore, on I flew ; and such was 
my speed, so almost incredible to relate or recollect, 
that I fairly believe no one of the whole party could 
have overtaken me, if these words from one of the 
attendants had not reached me, "Doctor Willis begs 
you to stop ! " 

" I cannot ! I cannot ! " I answered, still flying on, 
when he called out, " You must, ma^am ; it hurts the 
King to run. 11 

Then, indeed, I stopped in a state of fear really 
amounting to agony. I turned round, I saw the two 
doctors had got the King between them, and three 
attendants of Dr. Willis's were hovering about. They 
all slackened their pace, as they saw me stand still ; but 
such was the excess of my alarm, that I was wholly 
insensible to the effects of a race which, at any other 
time, would have required an hour's recruit. 

As they approached, some little presence of mind 



KEW IN FAVOUR 61 

happily came to iny command ; it occurred to me that, 
to appease the wrath of my flight, I must now show 
some confidence ; I therefore faced them as undauntedly 
as I was able, only charging the nearest of the attendants 
to stand by my side. 

When they were within a few yards of me the King 
called out, " Why did you run away ? " 

Shocked at a question impossible to answer, yet a 
little assured by the mild tone of his voice, I instantly 
forced myself forward to meet him, though the internal 
sensation which satisfied me this was a step the most 
proper to appease his suspicions and displeasure, was so 
violently combated by the tremor of my nerves, that I 
fairly think I may reckon it the greatest effort of 
personal courage I have ever made. 

The effort answered: I looked up, and met all his 
wonted benignity of countenance, though something still 
of wildness in his eyes. Think, however, of my surprise, 
to feel him put both his hands round my two shoulders 
and then kiss my cheek ! 

I wonder I did not really sink, so exquisite was my 
affright when I saw him spread out his arms ! In- 
voluntarily, I concluded he meant to crush me ; but the 
Willises, who have never seen him till this fatal illness, 
not knowing how very extraordinary an action this was 
from him, simply smiled and looked pleased, supposing, 
perhaps, it was his customary salutation. 

She was soon relieved to find the King talk- 
ing reasonably enough, though with a certain 
flightiness, not very different from his ordinary 
manner. He insisted on prolonging the inter- 
view, after the Willises in vain tried to cut 



62 KEW GARDENS 

it short. He talked of Mrs. Schwellenberg, 
seeming quite well aware of what Miss Burney 
had to bear from her " Cerbera " ; of the lady's 
own father, author of the History of Music ; of 
his favourite composer, Handel, snatches from 
whose oratorios he tried to hum over with 
painful effect. As they walked on together, 
he asked endless questions about his friends, 
expressed his intention of appointing new 
officials, complained angrily of his pages. At 
last he was persuaded to part from this reluctant 
confidante, promising to be her friend as long as 
he lived ; then she went off to the Queen with 
a report which ensured forgiveness for that 
innocent adventure. 

The favourable symptoms continued, little 
to the satisfaction of the Prince and his friends, 
who are credited with passing brutal jests on 
the King's condition. Just as power seemed 
to be within their grasp, the Regency Bill was 
shelved, after an audience given by the King 
to the Lord Chancellor, Thurlow, though that 
shifty Polonius is said to have remarked that 
His Majesty had been "wound up" to talk to 
him. Miss Burney, who now confined her 
walks to the roadside, had the happiness of 



KEW IN FAVOUR 63 

thence seeing the royal pair walking arm-in- 
arm in Richmond Gardens. Next day, the 
King came to tea with his family in the draw- 
ing-room ; then, a few days later, meeting Miss 
Burney in the Queen's dressing-room, he said 
that he had waited on purpose to tell her "I 
am quite well now I was nearly so when I 
saw you before but I could overtake you 
better now." After four months of royal 
misery and public excitement, the evergreen 
sneerer, Horace Walpole, could note "The 
King has returned, not to what the courtiers 
call his sense, but to his non-sense." 

The news called forth an outburst of public 
joy, that hit the Prince's party hard. A thanks- 
giving prayer was read in every church ; and 
later on the King, to the dread of his advisers, 
would not be satisfied without the excitement 
of attending a solemn service at St. Paul's, 
where he and the princesses were moved to 
tears, while his graceless sons attracted attention 
by their irreverent chattering. There is some 
slight palliation for the Prince of Wales's con- 
duct throughout this trying time, in the fact 
that the King had showed a dislike to him, and 
even a want of fairness to his shortcomings ; 



64 KEW GARDENS 

but the Duke of York, always the father's 
favourite son, has no excuse for backing up 
his undutiful brother. Soon after the recovery 
was announced, London had hailed it with a 
general illumination, from rushlights in the 
humblest cottage window to blazing devices 
on the clubs. It was witnessed by the Queen 
and all her daughters except the youngest, 
while, in their absence till the, for them, most 
unwonted hour of 1 A.M., Kew House too was 
lighted up and adorned with a transparency 
displaying The King Providence Health 
Britannia ; and on either side of the gates, in 
gold letters on a purple ground, shone these 
most loyal lines : 

Our prayers are heard, and Providence restores 
A patriot King to bless Britannia's shores . 
Nor yet to Britain is this bliss confined, 
All Europe hails the friend of human kind ! 
If such the general joy, what words can show 
The change to transport from the depth of woe, 
In those permitted to embrace again 
The best of fathers, husbands, and of men ? 

Inside the house also the Muse was not 
silent. His darling Princess Amelia came to 
kneel before him, presenting her father with 
verses in the Queen's name, from the pen of her 
novelist-attendant. 



KEW IN FAVOUR 65 

Amid a rapturous Nation's praise 

That sees thee to their prayers restored, 

Turn gently from the general blaze, 
Thy Charlotte woos her bosom's lord. 

Turn and behold where, bright and clear, 

Depictured with transparent art, 
The emblems of her thoughts appear, 

The tribute of a grateful heart. 

O ! small the tribute, were it weigh'd 
With all she feels or half she knows ! 

But noble minds are best repaid 

From the pure spring whence bounty flows. 

P.S. The little bearer begs a kiss 
From dear papa, for bringing this. 

In the middle of March, after their unusually 
long stay at Kew, the royal family moved to 
Windsor, the King riding on horseback, to be 
received by the townsfolk with an ovation of 
welcome. In June, to complete the cure, he 
went to Weymouth for sea-bathing, everywhere 
on the journey hailed with acclamations and 
demonstrations that might well have turned a 
weak head. At Weymouth, the exuberant 
loyalty of the people was embarrassing. All the 
shops and bathing-machines placarded God Save 
the King, a device repeated on the bonnets and 
waists of the bathing -worn en, as indeed on 
dresses all over England. "All the children," 



66 KEW GARDENS 

reports Miss Burney, " wear it in their caps all 
the labourers in their hats, and all the sailors 
in their voices-, for they never approach the 
house without shouting it aloud nor see the 
King, or his shadow, without beginning to 
huzza, and going on to three cheers. . . . Nor 
is this all. Think but of the surprise of His 
Majesty when, the first time of his bathing, he 
had no sooner popped his royal head under water 
than a band of music concealed in a neighbour- 
ing machine struck up * God save great George 
our King ! '" It was now that occurred the 
ludicrous incident of the wooden-legged Mayor 
presenting an address, and not being able to 
kneel, to the scandal of the officials. And here, 
the "Royals" having gone on a day's visit to 
Sherborne Castle, for the first time in three years 
Miss Burney had a holiday, which she spent 
with a friend in a "romantic and lovely ex- 
cursion" to the ruins of Sandsfoot Castle near 
the neck of Portland Island, a peep into which 
she might have found more romantic, had some 
couple of miles not been a Georgian lady's limit 
on foot 

After a tour through the loyal West country, 
the Court returned to its routine of London and 



KEW IN FAVOUR 67 

Windsor life, with halts at Kew in the summer. 
Hut henceforth Miss Burney's diary has little 
to say about Kew ; and after another year we 
lose that peep-hole into royal domesticity. The 
life of a glorified waiting-maid began to tell upon 
her health and spirits : " Lost to all private 
comfort, dead to all domestic endearment, I was 
worn with want of rest and fatigued with 
laborious watchfulness and attendance." Her 
chief comfort had been a sort of intermittent 
philandering with the Queen's Vice- Chamberlain, 
Colonel Digby the "Mr. Fairly " of her journals 
a favourite with the King, too, to whom he 
could "say anything in his genteel roundabout 
way." This gentleman the lady clearly admired 
none the less when he became a widower, though 
to us she presents him rather too much in the 
character of a priggish novel hero, full of edifying 
reflections and opinions. But the sentimental 
friend turned out not impeccable, for he married 
Another, the "Miss Fuzilier," about whom his 
fellow-servant had often rallied him ; and she 
cannot conceal that this choice seemed un- 
worthy of him. Her health was so evidently 
breaking down that her literary friends cried 
out on the sacrifice ; even the newspapers 



68 KEW GARDENS 

gossiped about her condition ; and the meddle- 
some Mr. Boswell declared that he would set 
the whole Club upon Dr. Burney, if she were 
not allowed to resign. 

This she was most loth to do. She tried taking 
" the bark," but that did little good. The Rev. 
Dr. Willis volunteered a prescription which she 
found "too violent" in its effect, while grateful 
to him for his interest in her. " Why," said 
he, " to tell the truth, I don't quite know how I 
could have got on at Kew, in the King's illness, 
if it had not been for seeing you in a morning. 
I assure you they worried me so, all round, one 
way or other, that I was almost ready to go off. 
But you used to keep me up prodigiously. 
Though, I give you my word, I was afraid 
sometimes to see you, with your good-humoured 
face, for all it helped me to keep up, because I 
did not know what to say to you, when things 
went bad, on account of vexing you." 

Every one noticed her miserable plight, yet 
the Queen showed herself too blind to the fact of 
a life being wasted in her service. Even the ill- 
tempered Mrs. Schwellenberg was kind in her 
way, who seems to have found this subordinate 
a pleasingly submissive victim, and occasionally 



KEW IN FAVOUR 69 

spoke well of her behind her back : " The Bernan 
bin reely agribble ! " This " Cerbera," whatever 
her faults, had the virtue of devotion to her life- 
long mistress, and could not understand living 
by choice out of sunshine of Court favour. She 
tempted Miss Burney with the dazzling prospect 
of her own post in reversion. But the novelist 
was sick of her gilded cage. With trembling 
knees, after long hesitation, as if it were a 
crime, in the form of a petition she offered her 
resignation, not over-graciously received. The 
Queen proposed a six weeks' holiday, a change 
of air. When this was declined, the Schwellen- 
berg raged against Miss Burney and her father 
as almost guilty of treason. "I am sure she 
would have gladly confined us both in the 
Bastille, had England such a misery, as a fit 
place to bring us to ourselves from a daring so 
outrageous to imperial wishes." 

She held on some months longer to let the 
Queen find a successor, secured in the person of 
a Hanoverian pastor's daughter, Mdlle. Jacobi, 
who, for sign of family poverty, brought a niece 
with her in the disguise of maid. Miss Burney's 
last King's birthday ball under the royal roof was 
marked by a visit to Mrs. Schwellenberg's room 



70 KEW GARDENS 

from the young Duke of Clarence, our future 
sovereign, of \vhich_the diarist jotted down a long 
and most amusing description, though she has to 
apologise for not giving a full " idea of the 
energy of His Royal Highness's language." He 
insisted upon them all drinking the King's health 
in champagne so often that some of the courtly 
attendants were a little shaky on their legs ; and 
as for the Sailor Prince, he got so drunk that, 
as he told his sister next morning, " You may 
think how far I was gone, for I kissed the 
Schwellenberg's hand" and he might have 
added, bid her " Hold your potato jaw, my dear ! " 
If this be a true sketch from high life, the 
novelist need not be accused of exaggerating 
the manners of her Braughtons and Captain 
Mirvans. 

Among her last duties was expounding to the 
inquisitive King and Queen the allusions in 
Boswell's Dr. Johnson, in 1791 the book of the 
day, which Miss Burney hardly approved of, 
being one of the few who " by acquaintance with 
the power of the moment over his unguarded 
conversation, know how little of his solid opinion 
was to be gathered from his accidental assertions." 
Now she was at pains to vindicate to her royal 



KEW IN FAVOUR 71 

patrons " the serious principles and various 
excellences" of her famous friend. The year 
before, when Boswell visited her at Windsor, he 
had in vain pressed her to contribute " personal 
details " to his work. " You must give me some 
of your choice little notes of the Doctor's ; we 
have seen him long enough upon stilts ; I want 
to show him in a new light. Grave Sam, and 
great Sam, and solemn Sam, and learned Sam 
all these he has appeared over and over. Now I 
want to entwine a wreath of the graces across 
his brow ; I want to show him as gay Sam, 
agreeable Sam, pleasant Sam : so you must help 
me with some of his beautiful billets to yourself." 
The last day of Miss Burney's five years' 
slavery dawned at Kew, from which she attended 
Her Majesty to St. James's, and there took leave 
of her with deep emotion. Freedom, congenial 
society, and country air soon restored the lady's 
health ; and the faithless Colonel Digby's place 
in her heart became more than filled by General 
D'Arblay, one of a colony of French emigres 
settled at Juniper Hill above Mickleham, near 
her sister's house, and her friends, the Lockes of 
Norbury. Lessons in one another's language 
gave excuse for meetings, at which Cupid was 



72 KEW GARDENS 

soon of the party. The not-over-young couple 
married in haste and privately, but seem never to 
have repented. With the proceeds of the bride's 
next novel, Camilla, they built Camilla Cottage, 
still conspicuous, as Camilla Lacey, on the slopes 
above Box Hill station ; but at the peace General 
D'Arblay went back to France, where his wife 
became for years an involuntary exile. 

Mrs. Papendiek has a mischievous statement 
that Miss Burney was dismissed on account of 
the Queen's displeasure that she used her spare 
hours for writing a novel in the palace ; and that 
the authoress was much mortified by the loss of 
her post. But this seems mere scandal. Madame 
D'Arblay owned to writing an unsuccessful 
tragedy at Kew and Windsor ; and some years 
after, when Camilla was published, she confessed 
to the King and Queen that the "skeleton" 
of it had been jotted down under their roof, 
at which they expressed no displeasure, but 
graciously acknowledged the dedication with a 
gift of a hundred guineas. The same gossiping 
authority says that Miss Jacobi did not recom- 
mend herself to the Queen, nor to " old 
Schwelly," who refused to allow that niece-maid 
to dine at her table. A few years later Mrs. 



KEW IN FAVOUR 73 

Papendiek herself succeeded to the post once 
held by the novelist, for which she was much 
fitter, to judge by the space given to dress in her 
journals. But these records end before she 
entered upon her duties ; and we know little 
more of her Court life but that she gained pro- 
motion in the royal household, from which she 
retired to spend her old age at Kew. 

In 1805, another literary lady came into 
the service of Queen Charlotte, Miss Cornelia 
Knight, afterwards companion to the Prince 
Regent's daughter. Her journals are much more 
discreet about the royal family than Miss 
Burney's ; and there is a hiatus in them for most 
of the period of her living at Windsor, where she 
gives little more than hints of dissensions and 
grudges in the highest circles, and a general 
impression that Kew had fallen out of its old 
favour. All these three writers had a common 
point, in being able to boast of Dr. Johnson's 
acquaintance, most intimate in the case of Miss 
Burney. 

Thorne, in his Environs of London, as also the 
official guide, have it that the King was confined, 
during his first illness, in the present palace, 
apart from his family ; and this statement is 

10 



74 KEW GARDENS 

followed by a mob of guide-books, servum pecus, 
that often go tumbling after one another into the 
same ditch. But Miss Burney and other wit- 
nesses prove that it was not so ; and Thorne has 
misled himself in his reference to George Rose's 
Diary. Rose clearly refers to the next serious 
attack in 1801. It was whispered that in 1795 
there had been a recurrence of the symptoms, 
passing off in a few days. But at the beginning 
of the next century, when the King's mind was 
agitated by the resignation of Mr. Pitt on the 
Catholic Emancipation question, he caught a bad 
cold that ended as before. This time the illness 
began at Buckingham House; then, after His 
Majesty seemed fit to attend to business again, 
on his going to Kew a severe relapse took place, 
shown by his informing the Prince of Wales that 
he proposed to abdicate the English Crown and 
retire to Hanover or America. 

It was now that he came to be separated from 
his family, and confined in the " Dutch House " 
under charge of the Willises, to whom he had 
taken a strong dislike, and is said to have struck 
one of them before his removal could be effected 
by force. The father no longer appears as taking 
the leading part in the King's treatment ; but 



KEW IN FAVOUR 75 

one of the sons for a time was the fly-wheel in 
the State, since through him all papers had to be 
presented for the royal signature. When the 
Lord Chancellor was admitted to the King's 
sick-room, he vehemently declared, " as a gentle- 
man and a king," that he would sign no docu- 
ment nor perform any act of sovereignty unless 
he were that very day restored to his wife and 
daughters ; and he was then taken back to the 
house over the way, to be still more or less 
closely watched by the Willises. 

Dr. Thomas Willis, 1 writing at this time to 
Mr. Rose in the King's name, tells that his own 
quarters are on Kew Green, " a few doors below 
the Eose and Crown" a tavern still standing in 
less transmogrified state than its neighbour, the 
Kings Arms, also mentioned in books of that 
period. Kings reign and pass away ; kingdoms 
flourish and fade, mansions rise and fall, while 
public-house signs often seem to have more 
permanence in them than most human institu- 
tions. Yet of them too transit gloria, if we may 

1 The Dictionary of National Biography s article on Francis Willis, 
written, I understand, by a descendant of his, hardly does justice) to 
this one of his sons. The writer mentions John and Robert as con- 
cerned with treating the King at different times, but does not bring 
forward Thomas, who, so far as I can make out, was closely in charge 
during the attack of 1801. 



76 KEW GARDENS 

believe the report that half the taverns of 
England at one time took Wilkes's head for their 
sign, as to which evidence of popularity he him- 
self used to tell how he overheard a loyal old 
lady's remark, " Ah 1 he swings everywhere but 
where he ought." 

The second avowed derangement lasted, by 
fits and starts, till the summer of 1801. A 
course of sea-bathing at Weymouth again com- 
pleted the patient's recovery ; but the dread of 
fresh attacks remained. The next one came in 
1804, when his repugnance to the Willises was 
so marked that the doctor of Bedlam was em- 
ployed. It is, of course, a common symptom of 
insanity, the turning against its best friends. 
And now poor George showed intermittent 
symptoms of dislike to the Queen herself, so that 
they began to occupy separate apartments, and 
are found not even dining together. The old 
domestic happiness was gone, along with the 
uncomfortable Kew House, that had so often 
been its scene. Yet, had the King kept his 
health, there seems reason to believe that Kew 
might have become more of a home to him than 
ever. 

George III., returning to the plan set on foot 



KEW IN FAVOUR 77 

in the early years of his reign, took a fancy for 
building a castle here, after plans prepared by 
Wyatt, the then esteemed architect, in the bad 
taste of the period. The design is to be seen in 
one of the rooms of the present palace. The 
other house was pulled down in' 1802, to make 
way for the new structure, which would have 
stood nearer the river-side, looking over to the 
not very royal town of Brentford, that " town of 
mud," so strangely admired by the Georges and 
reviled by their poets. But the works were 
interrupted by the King's fresh attack in 1804, 
and this building never got further than the state 
of a pretentious shell, which stood idle for nearly 
a quarter of a century, and was then demolished 
by George IV. That monarch had no more 
love for Kew than his father for Hampton Court. 
He had spent freely upon his own whims, on 
Carleton House, and on the Pavilion, the latter 
gimcrack medley a laughing-stock even for 
contemporary taste, and a byword with irreverent 
writers like Byron 

Shut up, no, not the King, but the Pavilion, 
Or else 'twill cost us all another million ! 

His father, unless for saddling us with so many 
expensive sons, had lived so carefully and 



78 KEW GARDENS 

economically, that the nation need not have 
grudged him a " Folly " for once in a way. It 
was his spendthrift heir who began to restore 
Windsor Castle, demolishing the Queen's Lodge 
there, and to rebuild Buckingham Palace in its 
present form. 

When Kew House had disappeared, the sturdy 
"Dutch House," now known as Kew Palace, 
became the occasional retreat of the royal 
family, its scant accommodations, no doubt, eked 
. out by those other mansions held on Kew Green. 
It was here that Addington found the King 
dining rather before one o'clock on the simplest 
fare. His mind continued to be rather cranky, 
as shown by his strange freak of wearing a huge 
powdered wig in conjunction with the mediaeval 
trappings of the Order of the Garter. Blindness 
came gradually on to increase his afflictions. In 
1809 the nation joyfully celebrated his Jubilee, 
with much feasting of the poor and the rich 
relieving of prisoners for debt, pardoning of 
military culprits, illuminations, libations, and 
such memorials as the statue on the Weymouth 
Esplanade, that records the townsfolk's gratitude 
to the King, whose stay at his favourite bathing- 
place had so often sent up the price of its 



KEW IN FAVOUR 79 

lodgings. We may be sure Kew, in its small 
way, was not behindhand in such loyal doings. 

But Kew was hardly again to welcome the 
Father of his People. Repeated agitations went 
to overthrow his reason for good the triumphant 
marches of Napoleon, the tarnishing of British 
arms not yet brightened by Wellington's victories, 
the misconduct and unpopularity of his sons, the 
death of his beloved youngest daughter, Amelia. 
At the beginning of 1811, George had just wits 
enough left to consent to the Prince's Regency. 
A few months later, Charles Knight was one of 
the Windsor crowd that saw their aged Sovereign 
in public for the last time. Henceforth he lived 
confined in the Castle, prisoner of blindness, by 
and by of deafness, cheered by music, by religious 
exaltation, and by delusive memories of the past, 
more than by flitting glimmers of melancholy 
reason, in one of which he had the satisfaction of 
learning Napoleon's downfall and the recovery of 
Hanover. A most pathetic figure was the blind 
old King with his white beard, only now and 
then visited by those nearest to him. It is said 
that the selfish Regent was moved to tears when 
one day he overheard his father murmuring the 
complaint of Milton's Samson : 



80 KEW GARDENS 

O dark, dark, dark ! Amid the blaze of noon, 
Irrecoverably dark ! Total eclipse 
Without all hope of day ! 
O first created Beam, and Thou, Great Word, 
" Let there be light ! and light was over all," 
Why am I thus bereaved Thy prime decree ? 

When George III. was laid with his fathers 
in 1820, his stout-hearted and narrow-minded 
Queen had gone before him. To the last she 
tried to do her duty, according to her lights. 
Reconciled, at least outwardly, to her eldest son 
indeed it appears that all along the strict 
moralist had something of woman's weakness for 
that rake she exerted herself to play the figure- 
head of his Court, taking the place of his discarded 
wife ; and she shared his unpopularity to such an 
extent as to be hissed by the mob on her way to 
hold a Drawing-room ; then, after the death of 
the Princess Charlotte, she had to face an out- 
burst of popular resentment in the City. By the 
autumn of 1818 she was hopelessly prostrated by 
dropsy. On the way from London to Windsor 
her state became so serious that a halt was made 
at Kew Palace ; and there she died in a chair, in 
the room now marked by a brass tablet, her 
last looks, it is said, fixed on a picture of The 
Dropsical Woman. 



KEW IN FAVOUR 81 

A more moving loss in the preceding year 
had been that of the Princess Charlotte, upon 
whose young life so much seemed to hang, 
while bitter hatred kept her parents apart. She 
died in childbirth at Claremont, wife of Leopold 
of Saxe-Coburg, future King of the Belgians, 
who else might have taken in England the 
part afterwards filled by Prince Albert. When 
thus King George's family of fifteen seemed 
like to die out, unless through the detested 
Ernest of Cumberland, three of the now elderly 
princes were hastily married in the same month 
the Duke of Cambridge, the Duke of Clarence, 
and the Duke of Kent. These weddings, that 
might come close on funerals, were performed 
privately in the drawing-room at Kew Palace, 
the two latter on the same day, but at different 
hours. 

We know which of the branches took root. 
Next year was born the Princess Victoria, whose 
father died at Sidmouth about the same time 
as the King. The cause of his death is said 
to have been sitting in wet clothes after a 
long walk; and similar carelessness seems to 
have been usually the prelude to George III.'s 
afflictions, but for which the place of Windsor 



82 KEW GARDENS 

might have been usurped by Kew, through this 
King's favour. 

To the same favour was mainly due the 
rise and progress of the Gardens, that have been 
hitherto left too much in shade upon pages that 
bear their name. Now that nothing but the 
present " Palace " remains to block them out of 
our view, it is time to trace their development 
from a princely hobby into a national institution. 



Ill 

THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 

GARDENS appear to be an old story in this 
neighbourhood. The Monastery of Sheen, that 
stood on the flats somewhere about the present 
Observatory, was equipped with its orchard, 
vineyard, and other enclosures, through which 
the holy fathers, like those of Melrose, would 
be able to make "good kail, on Fridays when 
they fasted"; and let us trust that suppressed 
spite never drove them, as in a certain Spanish 
cloister, to keep a brother's pet flowers " close- 
nipped on the sly." 

Kew's connection with botany is as old as 
the Tudor time, when Dr. William Turner had 
a garden here. Of this physician, our first 
scientific botanist, Chaucer could not have 
said, "His study was but little on the Bible." 
He was a disciple of Latimer, and a hot- 



84 KEW GARDENS 

gospeller, among whose works figure titles like 
The Spiritual Nosegay, The Hunting of the 
Romish Wolf, A Preservative or Treacle against 
the Poison of Pelagius. Under Henry VIII. 
such a writer found the air of the Continent 
more wholesome than that of Hampton Court 
or Smithfield ; and he spent some time in 
Germany, whence, along with Protestant 
theology, he brought home a collection of 
foreign plants. When it was safe for him to 
be back in England, he doubled the parts 
of chaplain and physician to the Protector 
Somerset, who built Syon House on the site 
of the convent that for him proved unlucky 
church plunder ; this may account for his 
chaplain's garden across the river. But Turner 
did not fall with his patron, rising to be Dean 
of Wells, though again for a time, under Mary, 
he had to extend his knowledge of foreign 
gardens. He is best remembered as author of 
a herbal which marks the planting in England 
of scientific botany ; nor would this study seem 
so far aloof from his theological interests, if we 
consider a commonplace of our forefathers, thus 
versified by Cowley 

God the first garden made, and the first city, Cain. 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 85 

The Kew mansion of Queen Elizabeth's 
keeper was furnished with a garden, in which 
Her Majesty had delivered to her a nosegay, 
enriched with a valuable jewel and pendants 
of diamonds, worth four hundred pounds. This 
offering was only part of a series of handsome 
gifts that suggest how a visit from royalty in 
those days must have been indeed a visitation. 
In Bacon's Essay, Of Gardens, we get some hint 
what a garden ought to be that seemed worthy 
of entertaining a queen ; and after this model 
is said to have been laid out the garden of Moor 
Park in Hertfordshire. 

The contents ought not well to be under thirty acres 
of ground, and to be divided into three parts; a green 
in the entrance, a heath or desert in the going forth, 
and the main garden in the midst, besides alleys on 
both sides ; and I like well that four acres of ground 
be assigned to the green, six to the heath, four and 
four to either side, and twelve to the main garden. 
The green hath two pleasures : the one, because nothing 
is more pleasant to the eye than green grass kept finely 
shorn ; the other, because it will give you a fair alley in 
the midst, by which you may go in front upon a stately 
hedge, which is to enclose the garden : but because the 
alley will be long, and, in great heat of the year, or day, 
you ought not to buy the shade in the garden by going 
in the sun through the green, therefore you are, of either 
side the green, to plant a covert alley, upon carpenters 1 



86 KEW GARDENS 

work, about twelve feet in height, by which you may go 
in shade into the garden. As for the making of knots, 
or figures, with divers-coloured earths, that they may lie 
under the windows of the house on that side on which the 
garden stands, they be but toys : you may see as good 
sights many times in tarts. The garden is best to be 
square, encompassed on all the whole four sides with a 
stately arched hedge ; the arches to be upon pillars of 
carpenters 1 work, of some ten feet high, and six feet 
broad ; and the spaces between of the same dimensions 
with the breadth of the arch. Over the arches let there 
be an entire hedge of some four feet high, framed also 
upon carpenters' work ; and upon the upper hedge, over 
every arch, a little turret, with a belly enough to 
receive a cage of birds : and over every space between 
the arches some other little figure, with broad plates of 
round-coloured glass gilt, for the sun to play upon : but 
this hedge I intend to be raised upon a bank, not steep, 
but gently slope, of some six feet, set all with flowers. 
Also, I understand that this square of the garden should 
not be the whole breadth of the ground, but to leave on 
either side ground enough for diversity of side alleys, 
unto which the two covert alleys of the green may deliver 
you ; but there must be no alleys with hedges at either 
end of this great enclosure not at the hither end, for 
letting your prospect upon this fair hedge from the 
green nor at the further end, for letting 1 your prospect 
from the hedge through the arches upon the heath. 

In the next century Capel's seat at Kew 
had a garden which, more than once, won high 
praise from that connoisseur, Evelyn. "The 

1 Letting in Elizabethan English, of course, bore the opposite 
meaning to ours, as in " let and hinder." 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 87 

orangery and myrtetum are most beautiful 
and perfectly kept." Other gardens in this neigh- 
bourhood called forth Evelyn's admiration 
the Duke of Lauderdale's at Ham House, 
"inferior to few of the best villas in Italy 
itself"; and Sir William Temple's, "lately 
ambassador to Holland," whose East Sheen 
villa, Temple Grove, has long been a boys' 
school taken for the select establishment 
figuring in Coningsby where his Essay on 
Gardening might be read with more advantage 
than The Battle of the Books. Stephen Switzer, 
one of our first writers on gardening, mentions 
Lord Capel as distinguished in this pursuit, 
especially for "bringing over several sorts of 
fruit from France." 

Molyneux, heir of the Capels, had an interest 
in science, leading him to set up in his grounds 
a telescope, by means of which the Astronomer 
Royal Bradley began observations that led to his 
great discoveries of the aberration of light and 
the nutation of the earth's axis. The site of 
that instrument is now marked by the sun-dial, 
some way off in front of Kew Palace, erected 
by William IV. as a memorial, which serves 
also to show whereabouts stood the vanished 



88 KEW GARDENS 

Kew House, often confused with its neighbour. 
The Observatory, in what used to be the 
Richmond Gardens, may be considered as 
another monument to the scientific work so 
early carried on at Kew. 

When Frederick, Prince of Wales, came 
to occupy Kew, curbed in his martial and 
political ambitions, he took to improving these 
grounds, for which purpose he employed William 
Kent, a bad painter, better esteemed as an 
architect, and best remembered by his ideas 
of what he called landscape gardening. Inigo 
Jones had not disdained to design gardens ; 
and the "improvers" who, throughout the 
Georgian age, came to be busy about English 
country - houses, were more often than not 
architects by occupation as well as professed 
artists in landscape, who had to design groves 
and flower-beds, but also temples, grottos, 
terraces, steps, statues, fountains, and other 
ornaments in the taste of their time. Such 
pretentious gardeners now found plenty of em- 
ployment at lordly seats like Stowe, Badminton, 
Wanstead, Canons Park, and others aspiring to 
the celebrity of elaborate pleasure-grounds. 

The art of gardening, like architecture, has 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 89 

had two main schools, that might be styled the 
Classic and the Gothic. The ancient model, 
flourishing longer on the Continent, dealt in 
straight lines and formal shapes, in parallel rows, 
accurate vistas and such trim patterns as the 
star and the quincunx. This prospered in 
England while our mediaeval buildings were 
being replaced by Palladian structures. Our 
first great gardens of that period seem to have 
copied the conceits of the Italian style, with its 
terraces, balustrades, stairways, arcades, and stiff 
arbours among walls of clipped hedge. Le 
Notre in the seventeenth century headed in 
France a school of geometric gardening on a 
large scale, which spread across the Channel. 
William III. patronised among us the Dutch 
ideas of quaint formalism, especially shown in 
thickets of box and yew. Now came into great 
favour the Topiarian monstrosities of "verdant 
sculpture " still kept up here and there, notably 
in the Lakeland gardens of Levens Hall. So, 
in the age of Queen Anne, English gardens 
had fallen into the conventional affectation 
satirised by Pope. 

No pleasing intricacies intervene, 

No artful wildness to perplex the scene ; 

12 



90 KEW GARDENS 

Grove nods at grove, each alley has a brother, 
And half the platform just reflects the other. 
The suffering eye inverted nature sees, 
Trees cut to statues, statues thick as trees ; 
With here a fountain, never to be played, 
And there a summer-house that knows no shade. 

About the same time the Spectator complains : 
" Our trees rise in cones, globes, and pyramids. 
We see the marks of the scissors upon every plant 
and bush. I do not know whether I am singular 
in my opinion, but for my own part, I would 
rather look upon a tree in all its luxuriancy and 
diffusion of boughs and branches, than when it 
is thus cut and trimmed into a mathematical 
figure ; and cannot but fancy that an orchard 
in flower looks infinitely more delightful than 
all the little labyrinths of the most finished 
parterre." But Addison rather surprises us by 
pointing abroad for better models " in an agree- 
able mixture of garden and forest, which represent 
everywhere an artificial rudeness, much more 
charming than that neatness and elegancy which 
we meet with in those of our own country." 

At all events, the revolt against that formal 
orthodoxy was raised under the standard of what 
came to be called the English school, whose 
principles suggest those of Gothic architecture. 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 91 

At first it was rather a Strawberry Hill Gothic 
which improvers practised in imitation of natural 
effects, heightened by art that clung to tawdry 
decorations. The cradle of this school was not 
far from Kew, at Twickenham, where Pope 
and Horace Walpole, "prince of cockle-shells," 
set copies in a " more grand and rural manner," 
advocated by a local author, Batty Langley, in 
his New Principles of Gardening. The rank of 
leader of the revolution has been claimed also 
for Stephen Switzer, who, though of foreign 
origin perhaps, was born in England, and from 
a working gardener became a nurseryman, then 
in 1715 published the Gardeners Recreation, a 
work showing better education than might be 
expected from such a career, unless the writer 
got some literary craftsman to graft flowery 
tropes and classical tags upon his practical 
knowledge. Another gardener named Bridge- 
man is mentioned in connection with Kent, 
who designed ornamentation both outside and 
inside the Prince's villa at Kew. 

Kent is commonly called the father of the 
English or natural school of landscape gardening, 
and seems at least to have been its first 
exponent on a large scale. He was followed 



92 KEW GARDENS 

by rival doctors of the picturesque, very apt 
to differ, to accuse one another of quackery 
and of malpractice in the exhibition of clumps, 
belts, vistas and sheets of water. The Picturesque 
and the Gardenesque became watch-words like 
Allopathy and Homoeopathy. One practitioner 
was judged to starve Nature, another to use the 
knife too freely. 

To improve, adorn, and polish they profess, 
But shave the goddess whom they came to dress. 

These artists in scenery, one of them insists, 
on a foundation of painting and gardening " must 
possess a competent knowledge of surveying, 
mechanics, hydraulics, agriculture, botany, and 
the general principles of architecture," besides 
professing themselves cognoscenti and virtuosi. 
They dealt with gardens mainly as one feature 
in a larger field of operations, the laying-out of 
parks, pleasure-ground, jermes ornees, and such 
fanciful paradises as Shenstone made famous at 
the Leasowes. Into the park, of course, the 
garden proper passes by transition over the 
lawn turf that is the special beauty of English 
culture, often separated from less trim outskirts 
by the invisible barrier of a sunk fence, said to 
have been Kent's invention, but this statement 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 93 

seems dubious, as may be Horace Walpole's 
story that the name Ha-ha expressed a rustic's 
astonishment at being brought to an unexpected 
stand. But for poets like Cowley and Marvell, 
who courted "a green thought in a green 
shade," it was left for writers of our time to 
dwell lovingly on the garden they love, however 
small; the tasteful authorities of that century 
hardly condescend to notice anything below the 
pleasure-grounds that ran into lordly demesnes. 
Humphry Repton, doyen of a later generation 
of improvers smiled at by Jane Austen, in 
his proposals for Woburn Abbey, distinguishes 
the gardens about a country-seat under the 
following heads : 

The terrace and parterre near the house. 

The private garden, only used by the family. 

The rosary, or dressed flower garden, in front of the 
greenhouse. 

The American garden, for plants of that country only. 

The Chinese garden, surrounding a pool in front of 
the great Chinese pavilion, to be decorated with 
plants from China. 

The botanic garden, for scientific classing of plants. 

The animated garden, or menagerie. 

And lastly, the English garden or shrubbery walk, 
connecting the whole ; sometimes commanding 
views into each of these distinct objects and some- 
times into the park and distant country. 



94 KEW GARDENS 

Tliis plan was much on the model of what 
had grown up at Kew, to which let us return, 
after recalling that before its grounds came into 
note, Queen Caroline had begun or enlarged 
the gardens about Richmond Lodge, extending 
them over an unkempt flat, as we understand 
from her private laureate, Stephen Duck. To 
poets of his school there was no beauty in 
heath and wild copses, like the rough patch of 
Sheen Common still left to the gratitude of our 
Bank-Holiday age. 

Not so attractive lately shone the plain, 
A gloomy waste, not worth the Muse's strain ; 
Where thorny brakes the traveller repell'd, 
And weeds and thistles overspread the field ; 
Till royal George, and heav'iily Caroline 
Bid Nature in harmonious lustre shine ; 
The sacred fiat thro' the chaos rung 
And symmetry from wild disorder sprung. 

But Nature might not be trusted to shine 
here by her own unvarnished charms ; and 
the Richmond Gardens were bedecked with 
" follies " in the taste of the time : " Merlin's 
Cave," that appears to^ have housed a wax- 
work collection as well as the library of 
which Stephen Duck was keeper ; a hermitage, 
inhabited by busts of distinguished men ; a 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 95 

menagerie, a maze, and, of course, a grotto, to 
gratify "heav'nly Caroline's" admiration for 
what "royal George" bluntly denounced as 
"childish silly stuff." Rival poets celebrated 
"the much sung grotto of the Queen," one 
under the sly pseudonym of "Peter Drake, a 
fisherman of Brentford," making fun of Stephen 
Duck, the so-called thresher-poet 

The widowed Princess of Wales, prompted 
by her friend Bute, showed a warm interest in 
horticulture ; and under her was nursed the 
Botanic Garden of exotic plants that became 
the special feature of the Kew grounds. They 
were laid out by Lancelot Brown, a self-taught 
gardener, so celebrated in his day as to be 
known by the name of "Capability" Brown. 
He, indeed, rather than Kent, is sometimes 
styled the father of landscape improvers, among 
whom Repton, for one, speaks of him as his 
master or forerunner. Brown appears to have 
insisted masterfully on the carrying out of his 
own ideas, if we are to believe the story of 
George III. chuckling over his death to an 
under - gardener : "Now you and I can do as 
we please here ! " In Mason's Heroic Epistle, 
Brown is said to have had a free hand over the 



96 KEW GARDENS 

Richmond Garden also, where he destroyed 
Queen Caroline's fanciful structures, so as to 
be accused of having "transformed to lawn 
what late was Fairyland." 

Under Bute's patronage the post of super- 
intendent of the Botanic Garden was given, 
but seems not to have been made pukka, to 
Sir John Hill, as he styled himself on the 
credit of a Swedish decoration, that humbug 
physician and author, best remembered now by 
Garrick's epigram : 

For physic and farces, his equal there scarce is : 
His farces are physic, his physic a farce is. 

Another questionable authority in taste, 
introduced by Bute to the Princess and her 
son, was William Chambers, an architect who 
built himself into no small note. In his youth, 
as supercargo of a vessel he had travelled as 
far as China, then a land of fresh wonder, to 
bring back extravagant notions, set forth in his 
Dissertation on Oriental Gardening, and in a 
mania for Chinoiseries, which was let loose at 
Kew. Hence the building of the Pagoda in 
1762, of a House of Confucius, and of a 
mosque, with temples, grottos, and other out- 
landish erections, most of which have long 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 97 

disappeared. He also built the Observatory 
where Richmond Lodge came to be demolished. 
His innovations were not confined to buildings, 
as appears in Mason's satire : 

Now to our lawns of dalliance and delight, 
Join we the groves of horror and affright. 

The architect -gardener declared himself very 
complacent about the dealings with Nature here 
carried out. " Originally the ground was one 
continued dead flat, the soil was in general 
barren, without either wood or water. With so 
many disadvantages it was not easy to produce 
anything even tolerable in gardening ; but 
princely munificence overcame all difficulties. 
What was once a desert is now an Eden ! " 

As controller of the works actively pushed 
on at Kew, Chambers prospered so much as to 
be knighted, and to buy Whitton Place, near 
Hounslow, where the third Duke of Argyll, 
brother and heir of Jeanie Deans's protector, 
himself better known as Lord Islay, had 
established a nursery of exotic trees, which 
it was his hobby to naturalise in England. 
On the death of this duke the cream of his 
collection seems to have been transplanted to 
Kew, now become a truly royal botanic garden, 

13 



98 KEW GARDENS 

unsurpassed in England, with a fame that went 
on growing till Erasmus Darwin was bound to 
note it in his herbarium of verse. 

So sits enthron'd in vegetable pride 
Imperial Kew by Thames' s glittering side ; 
Obedient sails from realms unfurrow'd bring 
For her the unnam'd progeny of spring ; 
Attendant nymphs her dulcet mandates hear, 
And nurse in fostering arms the tender year, 
Plant the young bulb, inhume the living seed, 
Prop the weak stem, the erring tendril lead ; 
Or fan^in glass-built fanes the stranger flowers 
With milder gales, and steep with warmer showers. 
Etc. etc. 

A much forgotten bard, named Henry Jones, 
who had been an Irish bricklayer, sought to win 
patronage, like Stephen Duck, by a whole poem 
in two cantos on Kew Gardens, a versified 
catalogue of their contents, with a high-pitched 
description of the Pagoda, and flowing flattery 
of their master, as to all which the less said 
the better. The same title was given to one of 
poor Chatterton's effusions ; but he, reduced in 
his garret to ape Junius by "patriotic" letters 
signed Decimus, lets the garden run under his 
pen to weeds of spite and scandal. 

Hail Kew ! thou darling of the sacred Nine, 
Thou eating-house of verse, where poets dine ! 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 99 

It has already been told how George III. 
enlarged the demesne at Kew, buying up 
some fields about the site of the Pagoda, and 
eventually getting the lane closed that separated 
it from the Richmond grounds. The Botanic 
Garden proper was enclosed and managed 
apart from the general pleasure-grounds, within 
which seem to have been dioceses or spheres of 
influence looked after by different employes. 
It is not quite clear to me how these gardeners 
were ranked or related ; perhaps, as in the case 
of higher officials, their functions may some- 
times have clashed, or been complicated by 
royal favour. Mrs. Papendiek records that in 
her time Haverfield was the King's gardener, 
who lived at Kew, his second son acting as his 
assistant there, as did an elder son in the more 
remote Richmond .garden ; and that after him 
the sons succeeded to these appointments. She 
also mentions the Queen's flower garden up 
Richmond Lane, where one Green was the 
gardener, who had nursed some orange trees 
to be the pride of his life, but was heart-broken 
when they dwindled for want of means to 
enlarge his hothouses, though he offered to 
pay half the cost out of his own pocket. This 



100 KEW GARDENS 

diarist, not always to be depended on in matters 
outside her own observation, intimates that 
the Board of Works declined undertaking any 
improvement in the Queen's private garden ; 
from which we should understand that the 
Botanic Garden was partly carried on at the 
public cost, where Chambers had already built 
an orangery, now turned into the Timber 
Museum. One thing appears plain, that even 
the subordinate gardeners had good places, 
when Green could offer 250 as his contribu- 
tion towards those denied hothouses, and 
Haverfield brought up his youngest son to be 
a clergyman. In all, the Gardens came to cover 
some 120 acres, about half their present extent, 
as might have seemed a small matter to 
Tamerlane, who boasted of his garden measur- 
ing 120 miles round Samarcand. 

The chief name among Kew gardeners of 
this reign was William Aiton's, who, if he had 
spelt himself Aytoun, like others of the family, 
would at once be recognised as coming from 
the North. W aiving the question as to whether 
Adam, the first gardener, were not a Scot and 
a Presbyterian, one finds it notorious that Scots- 
men have renowned themselves in planting the 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 101 

richer plots of the South, a fact explained by 
philosophers of Dr. Johnson's school in the 
sneer that a man who has coaxed flowers and 
fruit to grow beyond the Tweed has an easy 
task elsewhere. Of course this is ignorant 
prejudice, as many a demesne might show in 
Caledonia stern and wild, where nothing is 
needed for exuberance but the "fertilizer" we 
have seen running short even in the Queen's 
garden at Kew. 

Aiton was a son of the soil, driven out of 
his own Lanarkshire Eden by poverty, who, 
like so many other Scots unwelcome to Wilkes 
and Johnson, came to seek fortune in London. 
He got a place at the Physic Garden of 
Chelsea, and thence, perhaps by patronage 
of Bute, was put in charge of the Princess 
Dowager's Botanic Garden, whose reputation 
throve with his own. His functions must 
have grown beyond the limits of the Botanic 
Garden, then only a few acres, for this was 
the Scotsman who set Cobbett to work, among 
other jobs, at sweeping up leaves by the 
Pagoda, on the farther side of the Kew 
grounds. John Rogers, who worked in the 
gardens at this time, says that on the death 



102 KEW GARDENS 

of the elder Haverfield, Alton came into the 
entire management both at Kew and Richmond. 
His first appointment was in the last year of 
George II. A quarter of a century later, we 
find him clearly head of the whole establish- 
ment. Aiton certainly rose to be no mere 
working gardener, who published a catalogue 
of the plants at Kew. He held his post till 
towards the end of the century, and was then 
succeeded by his son William Townsend Aiton, 
to rule at Kew for half a century more ; while 
another son, John, had charge of -the royal 
gardens at Windsor and at Kensington. 

In the Aiton succession, we come across the 
fact that a talent for the study of plants is 
apt to be hereditary. There were two Linnes, 
not equal in fame, four De Jussieus, three De 
Candolles, three Darwins of different degrees 
of note in science ; and for more than a century 
Kew Gardens were under the two dynasties of 
Aitons and Hookers. In the reign of William 
Aiton the second, among Scotsmen finding 
employment in Kew Gardens was a William 
Macnab, who rose to be foreman here, and in 
1810 went to the Edinburgh Botanical Garden 
as curator or principal gardener. One cannot 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 103 

propitiate Dr. Johnson's Manes by describing 
the Edinburgh Garden as a branch from Kew. 
It is, in fact, an older institution, founded in 
Charles II. 's reign, and now grown into a model, 
both of utile and duke, worthy the Modern 
Athens. The point I have to make is that 
William Macnab was succeeded at Edinburgh 
by his son James Macnab, godfather of the 
Cupressus Macnabiana, etc., who managed this 
garden till his death, 1878, and whose only son, 
William Ramsay Macnab, bade fair, through 
a too short life, to continue the family distinc- 
tion in the botanical world. 

This botanist by birth and birthplace was a 
schoolfellow of mine, whose early career deserves 
notice. His masters could have seen little 
promise in such a scholar, for, under the regime 
then styled education, our lessons simply did not 
interest him, and I often wondered how he 
picked up the quantum of Latin necessary for 
his medical examinations. But at fourteen he 
printed a monograph, either on ferns or on sea- 
weeds, of which I had a copy but cannot lay 
hands on it. At the same age he gave a lecture 
on plant life, illustrated by diagrams prepared by 
himself. He also excited the wondering admira- 



104 KEW GARDENS 

tion of his schoolfellows by practising the then 
young art of photography. Before reaching 
school days, he had bought his first microscope. 
Not yet out of his teens, he had what I had 
heard called the best collection of beetles in 
Scotland. About this time I accompanied him 
and some older scientific adventurers on a 
natural history expedition to the Bass Rock, 
when, unfortunately, all the pundits were so 
overcome by sea-sickness, that nothing could 
then be added to the stock of knowledge. 

Macnab left our school in dudgeon against 
a master who, having prescribed an essay 
on starch, not unnaturally accused him of 
plagiarising an elaborate composition based on 
original experiment. From another school he 
went early to Edinburgh University, and if I 
am not mistaken, to Germany, where he used 
his time so well that he had to wait some 
months to come of age for taking his M.D. 
degree at twenty-one. After a short digression 
into lunacy practice, he followed his bent in a 
professorship of Natural History at the Agri- 
cultural College of Cirencester, and soon became 
Botany Professor at the Royal College of 
Science, Dublin. There he died prematurely, 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 105 

else his life would surely have figured on some 
more authoritative pages than mine. The last 
time I saw him, if I remember right, he was 
staying at Kew, engaged in some work or study 
in the Gardens where his grandfather had been 
foreman. The above digression relates to the 
fact that the Kew gardeners were apt to be 
kinsmen, or at least kindly Scots. Macnab, 
Lockhart, Begbie, Kerr, Fraser, Morison these 
are only some names occurring early among the 
staff to show how the Aiton dynasty did not over- 
look their countrymen's claims to employment. 

If not scientific men themselves, the Aitons 
had the advice and help of the best naturalists 
of their day, specially of Sir Joseph Banks, 
Captain Cook's companion, who introduced to 
this country the fuchsia, the hydrangea, and 
other exotic plants. Under this President of 
the Royal Society, less distinguished collectors 
were sent out to all parts of the world, some- 
times in ships of war, to procure specimens for 
Kew. Two such emissaries were on board the 
Bounty on its celebrated voyage, one of them 
sticking by the commander, the other going off 
with the mutineers. To the honour of Banks, 
it is told that when consignments of rare 

14 



106 KEW GARDENS 

specimens intended for the royal gardens at 
Paris were captured by our cruisers, he several 
times used his influence to have them sent on 
intact, a scientific courtesy that repaid the 
orders of the French Government to treat 
Cook's vessels as neutral, when war with 
England broke out during his last expedition. 
Banks, indeed, a wealthy man who sought no 
salaried post, appears to have been practically 
the scientific authority of Kew Gardens in his 
lifetime, well deserving the royal confidence, 
though he came in for his share of caricaturing 
as a Court favourite. His picture, and those of 
other noted botanists, are treasured in the Kew 
Museums, where the mere literary man will 
often be put to shame to find how many names 
he never heard, live not forgotten among the 
votaries of a special study. 

Under Aiton the second, Kew Gardens 
began to fall off, lying as they did in the shade 
of royal neglect. George IV. began by showing 
some interest in them, which soon withered 
away. They were opened to "all well-dressed 
strangers" on Sundays in summer, the Botanic 
Garden being accessible at other times to those 
who took an interest in it ; but the empty 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 107 

palace no longer attracted people of fashion, 
and for the ordinary citizen Kew was still 
rather out of the way, though "stages" left 
Piccadilly every quarter of an hour in the 
season, and in 1808 there were already " houses 
of entertainment" on Kew Green, as we find 
particularised in a guide-book of that date. 
Later on, the Gardens were open every day 
except Sunday. But by this time they were 
ceasing to be attractive. Aiton had been 
appointed director of all the royal parks and 
gardens, employment which appears to have 
taken off his attention from Kew, where money 
as well as interest ran short. The part kept up 
shrank to the dozen or score acres of the original 
Botanic Gardens, the rest relapsing into thickets 
that made a game preserve for Ernest, King of 
Hanover. A formidable rival was the Horti- 
cultural Society's Garden at Turnham Green, 
recently removed to Wisley Common. By the 
beginning of Victoria's reign, the Kew Gardens 
had fallen so low that there was a talk of 
breaking them up and dispersing the collection, 
to the indignation of the inhabitants, who had 
an old grievance that they had given part of 
their Green to enlarge this royal property, on 



108 KEW GARDENS 

the understanding that they were to be freely 
admitted to its amenities. 

From such extinction Kew was rescued in 
1840 by the report of a parliamentary committee, 
upon which steps were taken and funds provided 
for bringing the Gardens to their present position 
at once as a popular resort and as a national 
scientific collection, while still they remained 
nominally a royal demesne. Aiton being 
pensioned off, Sir W. J. Hooker, formerly 
Botanical Professor at Glasgow, was appointed 
Director. Here appears another case of heredity, 
for Hooker was the son of a botanist, and came 
to be replaced by his own son. 

Under his management the Gardens grew 
apace, the botanic part being much enlarged, 
while the Museums of Economic Botany were 
now set on foot. Decimus Burton, the fashion- 
able architect of his day, was called in to design 
new buildings like the Palm House, unrivalled 
in England unless by Paxton's Great Conserva- 
tory at Chatworth, which was the model of the 
Crystal Palace. To make room for such useful 
structures, a sweep had to be made of many of 
the fanciful " temples " and other gimcrackeries 
of the Georgian age, specimens of which are 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 109 

still dotted about the grounds, now laid out on a 
principle of compromise with formality, " the aim 
being to weave the various collections of trees 
and shrubs into a whole, which should avoid an 
artificial and yet yield an agreeable effect, while 
still subserving a definite purpose." 

In 1865, Sir W. J. Hooker was succeeded by 
Sir J. D. Hooker, who in his younger days had 
made adventurous journeys to the Himalayas 
and elsewhere in the interest of botanical science. 
He still lives at a good old age, after twenty 
years' service having given place to his son-in- 
law, Sir W. T. Thiselton-Dyer, who also has 
gone on the emeritus list ; and the present head 
is Colonel Prain, whose experience in India 
should give a new strain of efficiency. 

Sir Joseph Hooker's management was marked 
by a vehement quarrel between him and his 
official superior, Mr. Ayrton, head of the Board 
of Works, a Kew man by birth, who perhaps 
for that reason felt himself the more moved 
to aggressive interference. The scientific world 
warmly took up the cause of its confrere ; and 
Ayrton earned general unpopularity by his over- 
bearing tone ; but Sir Algernon West, then 
Private Secretary to the Prime Minister, Glad- 



110 KEW GARDENS 

stone, after having had a good deal of trouble 
over arranging the dispute, gives us his opinion 
that there were faults on both sides. 

It is understood that in the management of 
the Gardens there has been sometimes a certain 
friction between the demands of a scientific 
establishment and of a scene for popular recrea- 
tion. But these two ideas seem now fairly har- 
monised. With the exception of isolated pene- 
tralia, the Gardens are open from 10 or 12 A.M. 
till sunset, and on Sunday afternoons. This 
was one of the first of our public institutions 
to be thrown open on Sunday, by the influence, 
it is said, of Prince Albert prevailing over 
the Sabbatarian austerity that dominated Mrs. 
Proudie's generation. 

As the Kew Gardens flourished, those of 
Richmond had withered away. The royal 
pleasure-grounds on that side were turned into 
George III.'s model farm, then into a park, which 
has become a golf-course and a recreation-ground, 
though it was only the other day that its quasi- 
public character came to be fully recognised by 
a foot-bridge thrown over the muddy moat 
cutting off this enclosure from the river-bank. 
The site of Richmond Lodge is approximately 



THE STORY OF THE GARDENS 111 

marked by the Observatory, built for George III. 
by Sir William Chambers, with a special view to 
the transit of Venus observed by Cook and 
Banks from Tahiti. When Kew Gardens were 
taken under the wing of Parliament, the Royal 
Society refused a free gift of this building ; but 
it was kept going by subscriptions, then under 
the auspices of the Board of Trade became 
a Meteorological Station, with the important 
function of testing instruments like barometers, 
thermometers, and sextants, to be hall-marked 
with the initials of Kew Observatory. But of 
late years it proved not secluded enough for 
this work, the electric currents induced by tram- 
ways threatening its most delicate operations, so 
that the magnetic branch was recently trans- 
planted to the wilds of Dumfries, where also, 
one hears, it had a narrow escape from inter- 
ference in being housed in walls at first chosen 
from an ironstone quarry. Other parts of the 
work are now carried on at the new Physical 
Laboratory in Bushy Park. 

A ha-ha fence cuts off Richmond Old Deer 
Park, as it is called, from Kew Gardens, which 
in all cover a space of some 250 acres. The wire 
fence has gone that marked the now hardly valid 



112 KEW GARDENS 

distinction between the Botanic Garden proper 
and the former pleasure-grounds. Queen 
Victoria showed her interest in the institution 
by granting successive stretches of private garden, 
to be added to what had become practically a 
public one. At the end of her reign the so-called 
Kew Palace, the old " Dutch House," was given 
up to be opened as a museum of pictures and 
other relics of its history. This is soon reached 
by the broad walk leading straight on from the 
chief entrance gates on Kew Green. The 
Victoria Gate, on the Richmond Road, is the 
approach for visitors coming from Kew Station. 
There are other entrances both from the Rich- 
mond Road and from the riverside, where, 
opposite Brentford's wharves, one closed gate 
reminds us how this was once a royal home. 



IV 
THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 

KEW itself does not stand in the forefront of its 
own story, for long remaining little more than 
an obscure river-side hamlet, half a dozen miles 
out of London, connected by a ferry with Brent- 
ford, and with its quaint little neighbour Strand- 
on-the-Green, which might have risen to equal 
note had Gunnersbury or Chiswick taken a 
king's fancy. It was not till the eighteenth 
century that Kew began to burgeon under royal 
favour ; and for the first half of that century, 
Richmond lay basking on the sunnier side of 
patronage. When George III. left Richmond 
for Kew, the quiet village blossomed forth as in 
a forcing-house, to grow into a banyan grove of 
princely dwellings. 

The first distinguished resident mentioned is 
Sir Peter Lely, as having a country house on 

113 15 



114 KEW GARDENS 

the Green, where the Herbarium now stands. 
From first to last he may have been a good deal 
in this neighbourhood, for he painted Charles I. 
at Hampton Court, and after doing the same 
service for Cromwell, he became the fashionable 
artist of Charles II. 's Court, whose frail beauties 
still live on his canvas. His successor in vogue 
was Sir Godfrey Kneller, who contributed to 
artistic vocabulary in his portraits of the Kit-Cat 
Club, that had its rendezvous at Barn Elms, 
now the Ranelagh Club. He also settled not 
far off, in the house behind Twickenham named 
Kneller Hall, that, after various vicissitudes, has 
become the Army School of Music. 

Swift, in his letters to Stella, mentions dining 
with the Duke of Argyll at Kew in 1712. I do 
not find any other allusion to this residence : 
perhaps Swift landed at Kew and went on to 
Sudbrook Park, where the Duke had a seat, 
that should rather be reckoned as belonging to 
Petersham, united with Kew as one dependent 
district of the Kingston parish. This mansion 
was near the famous avenues of his birthplace, 
the Duke of Lauderdale's Ham House, said to 
have been originally intended for Prince Henry, 
son of James I., and chosen by the Lords of the 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 115 

Council as a fitting retreat for James II., when 
the Prince of Orange was about to enter London. 
It would be the convenience of water transit 
that had dotted the Thames side with lordly 
mansions and villas ; and of course it should be 
borne in mind how, at a time when the Court 
could be spoken of as moving from Kensington 
to London, places like Kew and Richmond were 
practically as far from town as now are Haslemere 
or Missenden, while the champaign rusticity of 
the former would be more to the taste of Cowley's 
and Pope's generations. 

Kew is said to have had some sort of chapel 
before the Reformation ; but it was not till 1714 
that its church was built, the brick building on 
the Green, that, with additions and dubious 
ornaments, has mellowed into a specimen of 
what may be called the ugly picturesque. The 
excrescence at the east end marks the sepulchral 
chamber containing the Duke of Cambridge's 
tomb. The organ is understood to have been 
Handel's, and to have been played on by 
George III. The gallery, added in 1805, still keeps 
its dusty state as a royal pew, though now used 
on occasion for less illustrious worshippers. Both 
inside and outside are many memorials to persons, 



116 KEW GARDENS 

famous or forgotten, some of whom must presently 
be mentioned. In the close -packed church- 
yard an unusual number of foreign names 
seem related to the German colony of Queen 
Charlotte's attendants, and to the Hanover 
connection long kept up through the Dukes of 
Cambridge and Cumberland, the former of these 
princes having acted as regent or viceroy of 
Hanover till the Salic law put his unbeloved 
brother on its throne. 

One of the early ministers at Kew was that 
Stephen Duck, already mentioned, who began 
life as a Wiltshire labourer, then by dint of self- 
education came to be known as the " thresher- 
poet," taken up by Queen Caroline, to the 
jealousy of unpatronised poets like Swift. She 
settled a pension on him, made him first a 
Yeoman of the Guard, then, as a post more suit- 
able to the poet than to the peasant, Keeper of 
her library at Richmond. He married her house- 
keeper at Kew ; and one takes to be his daughters 
the Misses Duck, who half a century later are 
found in charge of the Dutch House, the last of 
them living till 1818. The father's ambition led 
him on to take Orders ; and he preached with 
much acceptation at Kew Chapel. Before long 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 117 

he had been put into the Rectory of Byfleet 
under St. George's Hill ; then, a few years later, 
only fifty years old, he drowned himself in a fit 
of dejection. But for the merit of being able 
"to burst his life's invidious bar," he hardly 
deserved patronage, his verses being a mere echo 
of the epithetical commonplaces of a generation 
whose rhyming shepherds hardly knew a crook 
from a flail. Perhaps the most readable of his 
effusions is The Threshers Labour, an account 
of a farm-servant's life, in which now and then 
he drops pseudo-Arcadianism for touches of 
human nature and actual experience. 

Soon as the rising Sun has drank the Dew, 

Another Scene is open to our View : 

Our Master comes, and at his heels a Throng 

Of prattling Females, armed with Rake and Prong ; 

Prepared, whilst he is here, to make his Hay ; 

Or, if he turns his Back, prepared to play ; 

But here, or gone, sure of this comfort still, 

Here's Company, so they may chat their Fill. 

Ah ! were their hands so active as their Tongues, 

How nimbly then would move the Rakes and Prongs ! 

Ill 1769, the Kew Chapel of ease was promoted 
to be a parish Church. Some ten years before 
this, Kew had another rise in life by the building 
of a bridge, under an Act of Parliament obtained 
by the owner of the ferry. There had also been 



118 KEW GARDENS 

a ford at low water. The first wooden bridge 
was a somewhat makeshift structure, which after 
a quarter of a century or so became replaced by 
another, standing to the beginning of the present 
century, when a new Kew Bridge was opened 
by Edward VII., the old one condemned as too 
steep of access. 

Its bridge gave Kew an advantage not easily 
realised by our generation. Putney Bridge was 
only a little older, though a bridge of boats had 
been thrown across the river there at the time of 
the Civil War. Westminster Bridge was not 
built till 1738, an improvement hotly opposed 
by various vested interests, the cry being that it 
would ruin the City as well as the watermen. 
For centuries, unless by water, the Thames 
could not be crossed between London Bridge 
and Kingston. This fact explains the round- 
about manner of Sir Thomas Wyatt's attack 
upon the City in that ill-managed insurrection 
against the Spanish marriage that cost Lady 
Jane Grey's head as well as his own. In my 
youth, at least, one was apt to take one's notion 
of his proceedings from Harrison Ainsworth's 
Tower of London, where a desperate storm of 
the Tower is described, with fierce hand-to-hand 



THE VILLAGE: IN AND ABOUT IT 119 

fighting, on the model of a like scene in Ivanhoe. 
But this was all imagination. As a matter of 
fact, Wyatt failed to get across London Bridge, 
the drawbridge in the middle having been taken 
up and the gate beyond being stoutly guarded 
against his advance. The Southwark people, 
who had welcomed him to the Borough, begged 
him to be gone when the Tower guns were 
turned upon their homes. Setting out in the 
morning, hampered by cannon to be dragged 
along through miry ways, he did not get to 
Kingston till well on in the afternoon. Here, 
too, the bridge had been broken, but its defenders 
fled from his guns ; some sailors swam across to 
fetch back barges moored on the farther side; 
the gap was hastily repaired with planks ; then 
before midnight he was able to continue his 
march. A gun breaking down delayed him at 
Brentford, then perhaps the Kew people were 
for the nonce rather thankful not to have a 
bridge, as that force passed by to assail London 
on the Middlesex side. So must they have been 
in the next century, when across the river they 
could hear the shouts and shots with which 
Royalists set Roundheads flying through the 
narrow streets of Brentford. 



120 KEW GARDENS 

The bridge put Kew upon improving its roads. 
The King, at his own expense, to give work for 
the unemployed in winter, had a carriage-way 
made to Richmond, hitherto reached directly 
by a rough lane. Then the inhabitants of sur- 
rounding parishes got up a subscription to mend 
the ways on the Surrey side from Putney Bridge 
" in order that His Majesty may not be obliged 
to take the dusty road from Brentford when he 
honours them with his residence in summer.' 
So now we come to Kew's palmy days, in the 
seventies of the eighteenth century, while George 
and Charlotte lived much here, before their 
flitting to Windsor ; and many new houses 
were built to accommodate the attendants and 
hangers-on of the rustic Court. Mrs. Papendiek, 
who was brought up at Kew, gives us glimpses 
of the village in its state of transformation, 
among them such a curious one as this : 

The farmhouse, now Hollis's, was Mrs. Clewly's, who 
supplied the inhabitants with milk, butter, eggs, pork and 
bacon. She, becoming a widow, married a Mr. Frame, 
whose son, by a former marriage, lived upon housebreaking 
and footpad robberies. Upon his father becoming an 
inhabitant of Kew, the question was inquired into, when 
he said : " I always take care to act so as to escape justice. 
Blows and murders belong not to my gang ; and if I am 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 121 

allowed to take my beer on the Green, and sit with my 
neighbours, without being insulted, I shall take care that 
no harm happen here. I am well aware of the bearings 
of the place." We all spoke with him as a friend when 
we met; and of my father he asked for any trifle he 
wanted, and was never refused. 

This diarist had not always such a friendly 
experience of highwaymen, for on their way 
back from Vauxhall to Kew, her party was 
stopped and robbed at Mortlake. The encounter 
was so little expected that Mr. Papendiek had 
laid away his new watch in a corner of the 
coach, and when our schoolgirl, as she then was, 
heard the robbers say that the ladies should not 
be molested, she hid the watch for him ; then, on 
her giving it back to its owner, the danger past, 
he rewarded her by making sheep's eyes, which 
in time brought about a marriage. 

But it was soon not necessary for Kew folk 
to seek amusement so far off as Vauxhall, for, as 
the lady tells us of 1776 "Kew now became 
quite gay, the public being admitted to the 
Richmond Gardens on Sundays, and to Kew 
Gardens on Thursdays. The Green on these 
days was covered with carriages, more than 300 
being often taken at the bridge on Sundays. 
Their Majesties were to be seen at the windows 

16 



122 KEW GARDENS 

speaking to their friends, and the royal children 
amusing themselves in their own gardens. 
Parties came up by water, too, with bands of 
music, to sit opposite the Prince of Wales's 
house. The whole was a scene of enchantment 
and delight ; Royalty living among their subjects 
to give pleasure and to do good." The brothers 
of Granville Sharpe, the philanthropist, kept 
moored at Fulham a notable fleet of pleasure- 
boats, one of them a barge or "yacht," serving 
as house-boat in summer, on which the owners 
took trips up the Thames, sometimes stopping 
to serenade the royal family or to have the 
honour of receiving on board the King and 
Queen, or the young princes under care of their 
tutors. This stretch of the Thames is said to 
have been the nursery of pleasure-boating ; but 
though a canoe and a shallop are enumerated 
among the Sharpes' craft, we do not yet hear of 
fine gentlemen, still less ladies, undertaking to 
row themselves. 

The village began to grow apace, old houses 
being pulled down or enlarged, and new ones 
built towards Richmond along what is now the 
thoroughfare of a big London suburb. The 
population was swollen by all sorts of new- 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 123 

comers from ladies-in-waiting to gardeners, 
from preceptors to soldiers, for a guard was kept 
at Kew House, near which barracks had to be 
provided. One winter, the King is said to have 
found work for his idle garrison by setting them 
to make the Hollow Walk, now filled with such 
a fine summer show of rhododendrons. 

There would be no want of church services 
then at a place well equipped with scholars and 
divines. Mrs. Papendiek mentions two bishops 
as living at Kew, besides subordinate tutors of 
the princes. While the royal family were in 
residence, they had at hand Sir John Pringle, 
" physician to the Person," and one or other of 
the brothers Caesar and Pennell Hawkins, the 
royal surgeons, " for the Queen would have two 
of them always on the spot to watch the con- 
stitutions of the royal children." Later on, as 
we saw, the King's illness brought a swarm of 
medical men about Kew, at least as lodgers or 
visitors. Rather earlier, Lord Bute, who was but 
a poor nobleman till enriched through his wife, 
the celebrated Lady Mary Wortley Montague's 
daughter, appears to have occupied two houses 
on Kew Green, that now known as Cambridge 
Cottage, and the Church House, described as 



124 KEW GARDENS 

his study, perhaps used by him for a botanical 
collection. His interest in botany, one must 
recall, was the foundation of Kew Gardens. He 
privately printed for the Queen's benefit a work 
on the subject in nine quarto volumes ; and 
when he moved to a more lordly home at Luton, 
his first care was to form there a large botanical 
garden of his own. 

The servants of the royal house, too, required 
accommodation, which was by no means humble 
in every case, for some of them must have made 
a good thing out of their places. Miss Amelia 
Murray, whose mother had a post about the 
princesses later on, tells us how " a bottle of 
wine every two days, and unnecessary wax 
candles, were, I remember, the perquisites of 
the ladies' maids. Candles were extinguished as 
soon as lit, to be carried off by servants ; pages 
were seen marching out before the royal family 
with a bottle of wine sticking out of each pocket ; 
and the State page called regularly on each 
person who attended the drawing-rooms, with 
his book, to receive the accustomed gratuity." 
In earlier days at Kew, George and Charlotte 
may have been able to keep a sharper eye on 
waste ; but their economy would always be 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 125 

counterweighed by custom and flunkeydom. Mrs. 
Papendiek, brought up in the air of the back- 
stairs, has much to say on matters of concern to 
those high-minded servants, their jealousies, their 
stifled quarrels, their pickings, the unworthiness 
of saving in a king's household, and such like. 
She mentions incidentally a footman named 
Fortnum leaving the service to set up as a grocer 
in Piccadilly, where his name would wax into 
renown. Another name now brought to note 
in London was Almack's, the Earl of Bute's 
butler, ne M'Call, a form which this canny 
Aberdonian, in view of his countrymen's un- 
popularity, thought well to anglify thus in 
appealing for fashionable patronage. 

The taste for music fostered by the royal 
family drew many professional players into the 
neighbourhood, mostly foreigners, such as J. C. 
Bach, son of the great composer ; Abel, the viol 
da gamba player; and Fischer, Gainsborough's 
son-in-law, celebrated for his performances on the 
oboe, all of whom were well known to Mrs. 
Papendiek as an amateur in their art. The arts 
of design were also well represented by foreigners, 
at a period when John Bull affected the pride 
of being still rather stockish and shy with the 



126 KEW GARDENS 

Muses. We hear of Mr. Englehart as living on 
the road to Richmond, one of several of the 
name who rose to note as artists or engravers. 
Another German, who practised as a limner or 
miniature-painter the photographers of that day 
and who appears to have designed the coinage 
of that reign, was Jeremiah Meyer, so thriving 
as to have a home at Kew as well as one in town. 
Mrs. Papendiek states that he caught his death 
by a dutiful visit of inquiry at Kew House after 
the King's first serious illness ; Meyer had him- 
self been ailing, and on that errand he suffered 
from the ill-humour of the page Ernst once 
George's favourite attendant, but about this time 
in disgrace who " kept poor Meyer waiting for 
him in a room that had just been washed, and 
which was therefore cold and damp. He returned 
home in haste, but fresh cold succeeded. A re- 
lapse came on, and poor Meyer was no more." 
He has a monument in Kew Church, with an 
epitaph by Hayley. 

Mrs. Papendiek's chief friends among the 
artistic colony settled hereabouts were the 
Zoffanys, who had a house at Strand on the 
Green, where indeed the master was not always 
at home. That erratic German genius, John 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 127 

Zoffany, having studied art in Italy, sought 
fortune in London, like other esurient foreigners. 
After an ordeal of poverty, he rose to note by his 
theatrical portraits, and came for a time into the 
sun of Court patronage. His speciality was 
portrait groups like that which was to include 
with the Vicar of Wakefield's family "as many 
sheep as the painter would put in for nothing." 
He painted one such of George III. and his 
family, and a notable one of his brethren in the 
then young Royal Academy, founded under this 
King, who was an interested, if not very dis- 
criminating, patron of art. Another of his 
celebrated pictures, The Last Supper in which 
St. Peter is said to be his own portrait, and for 
the rest of the Apostles Thames-side fishermen 
sat as models he gave for an altar-piece to the 
church at Brentford. 

At the height of his renown, Zoffany went off 
to Italy for years, with a commission from the 
King to copy the Tribune of the Uffizi Gallery 
at Florence. This task he executed well, but as 
in his absence he had accepted other commissions 
from Kaiser Joseph II., and the title of Baron, 
an honour resented by George for a British sub- 
ject, he seems to have lost the royal favour. 



128 KEW GARDENS 

Again, in a fit of disgust or adventurousness, he 
started off to India, where he must have had 
a wide field much to himself as a portrait 
painter, and thence brought back gorgeous 
pictures of A Tiger Hunt and A Cock 
Fight, to revive his vogue in England. The 
latter picture had the curious history of costing 
an estate to a young Irishman who figures in it, 
his father, Robert Gregory, having threatened 
to disinherit him if ever he took part in cock- 
fighting. 

Mrs. Papendiek grew up intimate with Mrs. 
Zoffany, though this lady was looked on askance 
in the genteel society of Kew, having been a 
girl of humble birth, seduced by the painter at 
fourteen and married afterwards on the death of 
a deserted wife. She so far lived down the 
rather squalidly romantic story of her youth 
that her daughter's hand was sought by a rich 
suitor, Colonel Martin of Leeds Castle, who shut 
himself up here in single cursedness when the 
obstinate young lady insisted on marrying a 
plain and awkward young man named Horn, 
whose father kept a prosperous school at 
Chiswick, a match that turned out ill for the 
couple and for the school. Zoffany, his wander- 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 129 

ings at an end, lived into the eighteenth century 
at Strand on the Green, and was buried in Kew 
Churchyard, by the east end of the church. 

On the south side, under the wall, are close 
together the graves of Meyer, Kirby, and Gains- 
borough, the last under a tomb restored in our 
time. Thomas Gainsborough lies here, not as 
a Kew resident, but buried by his own desire 
beside his lifelong friend and fellow East Anglian, 
Joshua Kirby, F.R.S., who began life as a coach- 
painter as Ipswich, and rose to fame as a writer 
on art and architecture. Helped on by Hogarth 
and Joshua Reynolds, Kirby had the luck to 
become teacher of perspective drawing to Prince 
George, and the King liked this master so well 
as to give him a permanent appointment as Clerk 
of the Works set on foot in Kew Gardens, under 
Sir William Chambers. At a house by the 
ferry-side he passed the rest of his life in ease 
and respect ; but to our generation may be best 
known as father of Mrs. Trimmer, and uncle of 
William Kirby, the entomologist. 

Yet, indeed, so short-winded is fame in many 
a case, there may be sons and daughters of this 
generation who know not the name of Mrs. 
Trimmer, once so familiar in every well-ordered 



130 KEW GARDENS 

schoolroom ; while her History of the Robins 
stands still on our publishers' lists. One of the 
group of literary - minded ladies who had the 
privilege of sitting at Dr. Johnson's feet, she 
married a Brentford man, and went to live across 
the river, where she brought up a round dozen of 
children on the best of principles. She seems to 
have been a model of virtues from her youth. 
When at Kew she carried on a contest of early 
rising with a friend on the opposite bank, the 
first up hanging a handkerchief out of her window 
as triumphant token. Mrs. Barbauld's popularity 
as a writer for the young stirred Mrs. Trimmer 
to publish her lessons to her own large family, 
which won great success, helped by her earnest 
Evangelical Churchmanship, whereas the author 
of Evenings at Home was no better than a 
Unitarian. After the example of Raikes of 
Gloucester, Mrs. Trimmer took a prominent part 
in starting Sunday-schools in her own neighbour- 
hood, and was consulted by Queen Charlotte on 
this matter. Other causes she had at heart were 
kindness to animals, and "the injured African" ; 
it may have been one of her sons who objected 
on principle to being caned at school because he 
understood the instrument to be the fruit of slave 



THE VILLAGE: IN AND ABOUT IT 131 

labour. She corresponded with Hannah More, 
and such kindred spirits. It exalted her as an 
extraordinary honour and privilege when the 
books of a mere female writer like herself were 
admitted on the list of the S.P.C.K., which has 
since found plenty of work for women's pens. 
She edited The Family Magazine, forerunner of 
many such, " each number consisting of a sermon, 
generally abridged from the works of some 
learned divine of the Church of England, and of 
descriptions of foreign countries, in which care 
was taken to make the lower orders see the com- 
forts and advantages belonging to this favoured 
land, and also to render them contented with 
its laws and government." How many readers 
would be won now for a magazine conducted on 
such lines, even if spiced by the "Instructive 
Tales " of its editor ? The good lady died in 
1810, and was buried at Baling, the parish church 
of Brentford, which, though the county town of 
Middlesex, ranked ecclesiastically as a mere 
dependent of its neighbour. 

About Kew, in her time, there were spirits 
less loyal and orthodox. Across the river in her 
youth she may have heard the roars of the mob 
greeting Wilkes' repeated hustings triumphs at 



132 KEW GARDENS 

Brentford a din that must have reached the royal 
ears, if George III. did not keep clear of Kew for 
the nonce. At one of those abortive elections, 
every road to the poll was blocked by a crowd 
that would allow no one to pass unless wearing 
the popular idol's blue cockade. Wilkes and 
George might well be nicknamed the "Two 
Kings of Brentford." And for ten years or so 
New Brentford, as the village was then called, 
had a firebrand parson who would not com- 
mend himself to Mrs. Trimmer. Her future 
home, indeed, was at Old Brentford, now being 
swallowed up in Baling. 

The Brentford political parson was John 
Home, afterwards better known as Home Tooke. 
Son of a London poulterer, whom he styled to 
his Eton school-fellows "a Turkey merchant," 
Home was not the best man to hold a living 
which his friends bought for him about the time 
of the King's accession. He is said to have done 
his duty at least as conscientiously as most 
parsons of his day ; and he seems to have been 
on the way to become a popular preacher, if he 
had not been distracted by other avocations. He 
had studied for the Bar, had suffered as usher in 
a school ; and he practised medicine en amateur 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 133 

among his parishioners, no doubt with "a lurch 
to quackery," as is Dr. O. W. Holmes' reproach 
against divines straying into his own field. He 
took pupils at Brentford, one of them the Elwes 
afterwards so notorious as a miser ; and with more 
than one he travelled on the Continent, leaving 
behind him, let us trust, an orthodox curate. 
Then the cry of " Wilkes and liberty ! " set him 
on commencing as politician and pamphleteer ; 
and for years he revelled in the hot water of 
faction. He canvassed for Wilkes with such 
zeal that he is accused of saying " in a cause so 
just and holy he would dye his black coat red." 
We hear once of all the constables in London 
being drafted to Brentford, where the turbulent 
elections did not go off without bloodshed as well 
as much beer-tapping. A man lost his life, as 
was alleged, at the hands of bullies in the pay 
of the Court party; and that bellicose parson 
exerted himself to bring the accused to justice, 
who were convicted but pardoned by the Ministry. 
Before long the reverend champion of liberty 
quarrelled with Wilkes, against whom in his 
private character Home pointed an acrimonious 
pen, to the chuckling delight of their political 
opponents. He started a newspaper for publish- 



184 KEW GARDENS 

ing parliamentary debates, which led to a famous 
collision between the officers of the House and 
the City magistrates, and indirectly to the tacit 
acceptance of a liberty of reporting, hitherto 
practised by stealth. He next broke a lance 
against that unknown knight, Junius. It was a 
more daring adventure when he touched the 
Government's shield by hotly espousing the cause 
of the American Colonists, and writing of the 
Lexington victims as " murdered " by the King's 
troops, for which he had to stand his trial and be 
convicted of a libel. 

By this time the parson had resigned his living, 
and thrown off the gown that hampered his 
robustious exertions as an agitator, but he 
remained a resident at Brentford till circum- 
stances took him into Surrey. A Mr. Tooke of 
Purley had invoked his assistance for a dispute 
about common rights in that neighbourhood ; 
and Home proved such a doughty advocate in 
this case that close intimacy sprang up between 
the two men. The younger assumed Tooke's 
name, and from his house dated the philological 
and grammatical treatise, Diversions of Purley, 
by which he is best known. In the end there 
seems to have been some cooling of their affec- 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 135 

tion, for Mr. Tooke left his supposed heir only a 
small legacy, along with the welcome opportunity 
for a lawsuit. But Home Tooke's real father 
had left him means to live comfortably at Wim- 
bledon till 1812, long enough to take part with a 
new generation of Radicals, in which the names of 
Sir Francis Burdett and Major Cartwright came 
to the front. He succeeded in slipping into 
Parliament, strangely enough, as representative 
of a rotten borough, Old Sarum ; and his " elec- 
tion" led to a Bill disqualifying the clergy as 
members, though a generation would pass before 
the lease of rotten boroughs was cancelled by 
such reform as Home Tooke had loudly ad- 
vocated at the cost of again standing a trial for 
high treason. 

Another noisy reformer, if he be not better 
described as a pig-headed lover of the past, who 
was Tory and Radical by turns, had a glimpse of 
Kew, about or soon after the time that Home 
Tooke left Brentford. In the farther corner of 
Surrey there was then living a sturdy little 
peasant who, with a smattering of the three R's, 
went to work in the fine gardens of Waverley 
Abbey, then got another job of clipping and 
weeding at the Bishop's Palace of Farnham. He 



136 KEW GARDENS 

could hardly have entered his teens, though the 
date is not made clear in his story, when a 
gardener came that way who had just left the 
King's Gardens at Kew, and gave such a glowing 
account of them that nothing would serve the 
boy but setting off to seek a place there. This 
was not a lad to let the grass grow under his 
feet, when he had a purpose in mind ; and he at 
once left an episcopal service in hand for a royal 
one in the bush. It was William Cobbett, who 
now made his first acquaintance with the writings 
of an old sojourner in his own country nook, the 
sullen dependent of Sir William Temple at Moor 
Park, Jonathan Swift, whose downright diction 
this boy lived to copy through his long series of 
Political Registers. 

The next morning, without saying a word to anyone, off 
I set ; with no clothes except those upon my back, and with 
thirteen halfpence in my pocket. I found that I must go 
to Richmond, and I accordingly went on, from place to 
place, inquiring my way thither. A long day (it was in 
June) brought me to Richmond in the afternoon. Two 
pennyworth of bread and cheese and a pennyworth of 
small beer, which I had on the road, and one halfpenny 
that I had lost somehow or other left three pence in my 
pocket. With this for my whole fortune, I was trudging 
through Richmond, in my blue smock-frock and my red 
garters tied under my knees, when staring about me, my 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 137 

eye fell upon a little book in a bookseller's window, on the 
outside of which was written : " Tale of a Tub ; price 3d.'" 
The title was so odd that my curiosity was excited. I 
had the three pence, but, then I could have no supper. In 
I went, and got the little book, which I was so impatient 
to read, that I got over into a field at the upper corner 
of Kew Gardens, where there stood a haystack. On the 
shady side of this, I sat down to read. The book was so 
different from anything I had ever read before : it was 
something so neiv to my mind, that, though I could not 
at all understand some of it, it delighted me beyond 
description ; and it produced what I have always con- 
sidered a sort of birth of intellect. I read on till it was 
dark, without any thought about supper or bed. When I 
could see no longer, I put my little book in my pocket, 
and tumbled down by the side of the stack, where I slept 
till the birds in Kew Gardens awaked me in the morning ; 
when off I started to Kew, reading my little book. The 
singularity of my dress, the simplicity of my manner, my 
confident and lively air, and, doubtless his own compassion 
besides, induced the gardener, who was a Scotsman, I 
remember, to give me victuals, find me lodging, and set 
me to work. 

In his fragmentary reminiscence of that 
experience, Cobbett does not say how long he 
stayed at Kew ; but we presently find him at 
home again, soon to set out on further escapades. 
He tells us how the boy princes, attracted by 
the oddity of his dress, stopped to laugh at him 
as he was sweeping the grass round the Pagoda. 
I have somewhere read a story that King George 

18 



138 KEW GARDENS 

himself took notice of the young rustic as carry- 
ing a book with him to work, and was so pleased 
by his talk as to desire that he should be kept 
on; but I do not remember any statement to 
this effect in Cobbett's own writings. In later 
life, the doughty demagogue became something 
of a nursery gardener himself, carrying on near 
Kensington, by the Kew road, a seed-farm from 
which he was zealous to propagate a kind of 
acacia he introduced, and also, with less success, 
the cultivation of maize under the name of 
" Cobbett's corn." All through life he kept up 
his interest in gardening, as shown by more than 
one of the works whose style has been happily 
compared to a kitchen-garden's relation with a 
flower-garden. 

Another gardener rose to note, who about 
the same time was seeking jobs in Mortlake, 
Kingston, or any parish around Kew where he 
could find poor lodging and ill-paid work. His 
real name was William Hunt, but he changed 
this to Huntingdon, as would appear, by way of 
hiding himself from the consequence of some 
youthful ill -doing; and he afterwards justified 
the alias in characteristic fashion by claiming 
to have undergone " the new birth " under that 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 139 

assumed name, to which "as I cannot get at 
D.D. for want of cash, neither can I get at M. A. 
for the want of learning" he added the odd 
degree S.S., meaning "Sinner Saved." After 
undergoing the pangs of spiritual labour along 
with hard troubles of the flesh at Ewell and 
Sunbury, he began to preach among his humble 
neighbours, and kept up this ministry while 
earning a livelihood by unloading coals at Thames 
Ditton, so that he became notorious as the 
converted coal-heaver. He rose to be the 
Spurgeon of his day, with John Bunyan rather 
for model, as far as one can judge from the 
twenty volumes of his works, little known to 
the "new theology" of our generation, which 
hardly remembers him unless from a casual 
allusion by Macaulay. He was indeed of a more 
fanatical and fuliginous spirit than would now- 
adays recommend a popular preacher; and his 
picture in the National Portrait Gallery suggests 
a coarsely strong animal nature, subdued, as it 
might be, by religious enthusiasm. So great grew 
his following that "Providence Chapel" was 
built for him in London, and rebuilt in Gray's 
Inn Lane when destroyed by fire. Though he 
boasted of being " Beloved of God, but abhorred 



140 KEW GARDENS 

of men," godliness proved to him no small gain. 
He is said to have had an income of 2000 a 
year in his latter days, when, having lost the 
helpmeet of those early struggles, he married 
Lady Saunderson, widow of a Lord Mayor, with 
whom he lived in a villa at Cricklewood. He 
died at Tunbridge Wells, 1813, and was buried 
at Jireh Chapel, in the outskirts of Lewes. 

It would make too long a story were one to 
bring in all the celebrities and notorieties living 
at Richmond, which has books enough of its 
own to illustrate it, and a fame that would over- 
shadow that of Kew. The latter place owes 
everything, unless its river prospects, to princely 
care ; but Richmond is so richly endowed by 
Nature that it could not fail to be a favourite 
place of residence. Perhaps the best known of 
its inhabitants in the Georgian century was 
James Thomson, the poet of The Seasons, who 
ended his life at a cottage in Kew Foot Lane, 
its place afterwards taken by the Richmond 
Hospital. But there were lords, belles, and 
fashionable folk who also had homes here. At 
the time of the French Revolution, Richmond 
society got a new element in some of the immi- 
grant noblesse lucky enough to be able to rent 



THE VILLAGE: IN AND ABOUT IT 141 

houses in such a choice vilk de plaisance, while 
others had to content themselves with mean 
lodgings in St. Pancras or Soho. 

It is difficult, indeed, to draw the line between 
these neighbour villages that have now grown into 
each other. The Old Deer Park of Richmond 
ran into the parish of Kew. They had a common 
excitement in 1795, making a more than local 
sensation, when one John Little, said to have 
been a favourite attendant of George III. in 
his walks through the Gardens, came to a bad 
end. He is described as keeper or porter of 
the Observatory, who passed for being a quiet, 
worthy, and even religious man till he committed 
a most brutal murder under circumstances that 
suggest insanity. He had borrowed money from 
a friend, an old man named MacEvoy, living in 
the lane between Kew and Richmond ; and when 
this creditor pressed for payment, Little wiped 
out the debt by climbing into his house at night, 
beating him to death with a large stone, and 
killing his old housekeeper in the same way. 
Their cries roused the neighbours, who burst in 
too late ; but instead of making off, the murderer 
had hid himself in a chimney of the house, and 
was there found by a Richmond constable. 



142 KEW GARDENS 

He was convicted and hanged on Kennington 
Common, along with the notorious highway- 
man, Jerry Abershaw, and with a woman named 
Sarah King, when a newspaper of the day could 
remark on the curious coincidence that this 
was also the name of Little's victim, the 
housekeeper. 

Notices of Kew naturally become rarer after 
the poor old King had been shut up at Windsor. 
In 1813, Sir Richard Phillips made his Morning's 
walk from London to Kezc, where he did not 
admire George III.'s unfinished " Bastile," then 
cumbering the ground. He is not the only writer 
of the period to mention a singular exhibition, 
not quite obliterated a dozen years later, a fresco 
on a scale unsurpassed by Raphael or Michael 
Angelo. "As I quitted the lane, I beheld, on 
my left, the long boundary- wall of Kew Gardens ; 
on which a disabled sailor has drawn in chalk 
the effigies of the whole British navy, and over 
each representation appears the name of the 
vessel, and the number of her guns. He has in 
this way depicted about 800 vessels, each five or 
six feet long, and extending, with intervening 
distances, above a mile and a half. As the 
labour of one man, the whole is an extraordinary 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 143 

performance ; and I was told the decrepit 
draughtsman derives a competency from passing 
travellers." 

A sight that lasted longer was the City State 
Barge, the Maria Wood, rotting at Kew Bridge 
almost to our own day, till it had to be broken 
up ; but well on in the nineteenth century it 
still made a scene of junketings, and earlier it 
had cruised with aldermanic guests as far as 
Richmond and Twickenham, not to speak of 
that famous voyage to Oxford described in the 
Middlesex volume of this series. Another lion 
of Kew in the early part of the last century was 
a pretentious modern structure, said to have 
been built from the materials of George III.'s 
unfinished palace, but as Sir R. Phillips notes 
them both on his walk this statement seems 
doubtful. It took the name of the Priory, that 
has been spread over a district of the present 
suburb. 

The Priory was built by a Catholic parishioner. 
Romanists and Dissenters would have every 
chance of making way at Kew, when its living, 
still conjoined with Petersham, was held for ten 
years, from 1818, by Charles Caleb Colton, a 
parson who might well speak of himself as only 



144 KEW GARDENS 

a " finger-post " on the road to heaven. This 
eccentric divine was more concerned about 
angling in the Thames than to be a fisher of men. 
He did not live at either of his cures, but in 
shabby lodgings in Soho, going down to Kew 
only for necessary services, and spending the 
week-days after the manner of a Bohemian 
author, perhaps not unknown to Thackeray. At 
one time he carried on business, sub rosd, as a 
wine-merchant, in cellars underneath a Methodist 
chapel, a possible hint for Mr. Sherrick's dealings 
at Lady Whittlesea's ; but Colton had none of 
the Rev. Charles Honeyman's suave humbug, 
while in some respects he may have sat as model 
for the coarser reprobate who blackmailed 
Philip Firmin's father. His most unclerical 
pursuit was gambling, through which he got into 
some difficulty that packed him off to America 
in haste. He returned to put in an appearance 
at his living, which, however, seems now to have 
lapsed out of his incumbency. He next went 
to Paris, plunged head over heels into gaming, 
and blew out his brains in 1832. Yet this was 
the author of that once popular book Lacon, that 
among other edifying and sententious sentiments 
denounces the desperate gamester as doubly 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 145 

ruined : " He adds his soul to every other loss ; 
and by the act of suicide renounces earth to 
forfeit heaven." The cure of souls he had filled 
so unworthily passed into the hands of the 
Rev. R. B. Byam, who held it for forty years, 
in favour with all classes and especially with 
his chief parishioners, the royal dukes who still 
from time to time showed themselves in Kew 
Church. 

When Kew had been deserted by kings and 
courtiers, its gardens being turned into a public 
institution, the keepers of them grew to be 
important personages, of whom more has been 
said in the last chapter. For a time names of 
note are less often met with in this neighbour- 
hood. One long link with the past was the life 
of Mrs. Gwyn, who died here in 1840, the year 
of Madame d'Arblay's death, in whose Diary 
this lady's name appears. She was the widow 
of Colonel Gwyn, one of the royal equerries in 
that time of trouble which Fanny Burney passed 
through half a century before. She had been 
the beautiful Mary Horneck, "the Jessamy 
Bride" whom Goldsmith loved in vain; and 
there may be those still alive at Kew that heard 
her memories of Johnson, Burke, and Reynolds, 

19 



146 KEW GARDENS 

of the first night of She Stoops to Conquer, and 
the first fame of the Vicar of WakefieM. 

About the same time as Mrs. Gwyn, died 
Francis Bauer, a half-century resident at Kew, 
brought there by Sir Joseph Banks to exercise his 
remarkable skill as a natural history draughtsman. 
At the end of the eighteenth century lie had 
brought out a volume of delineations of the 
exotic plants in the Gardens ; and many of his 
plates lie still unpublished at South Kensington. 
It is said that in 1827 he laid before the Royal 
Society a paper by J. N. de Niepce, another 
foreigner living at Kew, who sought in vain to 
draw attention to some such process as was after- 
wards developed by Daguerre, so that Kew may 
claim to be a cradle of photography. While 
we are on the head of art, Hofland the painter 
should be mentioned as having been brought up 
at Kew ; also his wife, the once popular novelist 
Barbara Hofland, who wrote a book about 
the Richmond neighbourhood, sumptuously 
illustrated in the style of its day (1832), with 
much the same aim as the present volume, but 
containing a larger proportion of fine words to a 
smaller stock of matter. 

We now approach our own time, in which 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 147 

Kew seems more favoured by authors than by 
artists. An inhabitant still remembered is Sir 
Arthur Helps, Clerk of the Privy Council, and 
recorder of those " Friends in Council " who 
were so familiar to readers of the last generation ; 
nor does the mild wisdom of "Milverton," 
" Ellesmere " and the rest, deserve to seem out 
of date. Perhaps his most enduring work will 
be the narratives in which he told the dark story 
of Spanish American conquest, with its dubious 
heroes. He acted as editor for Queen Victoria's 
first confidences in print ; and she granted him a 
residence at Kew Cottage, near the chief gates. 
To a member of his family whom I count among 
my friends, I am indebted for threads of informa- 
tion woven into these pages. 

I can speak from acquaintance of another 
Kew resident, Richard Proctor, the well-known 
writer and lecturer on astronomy, editor of 
Knowledge, and a high authority upon whist, 
to which his devotion was so sincere that he 
never would play for money. Yet he won a 
prize at the card-table, for, as he remarks in one 
of his disquisitions on the relation of skill and 
chance, "the lady who was my partner in this 
game is now my partner for life." He was 



148 KEW GARDENS 

destined to end his busy life lamentably, far 
from Kew, when, having in latter days married 
an American lady, he transplanted his household 
gods across the Atlantic. In passing through 
New York from the South, he had an attack of 
fever, mistaken, it seems, for the terrible " Yellow 
Jack " that from time to time scares Uncle Sam, 
so poor Proctor was turned out of his hotel, and 
packed off to die in a hospital. 

One could tell of other noted authors living 
at or about Kew, not always in such enviable 
quarters as that " cottage of gentility " at which 
Queen Victoria visited Sir Arthur Helps, but 
perhaps the general reader, who, even in these 
Radical days, likes to hear about great folk, would 
take more interest in an aftermath of princely 
memories. 

Our late Queen came to Kew only as a visitor. 
The widowed Duchess of Kent had quarters 
given her at Kensington Palace, where she de- 
voted herself to educating her daughter for the 
crown that would be her almost certain inherit- 
ance ; and the Princess was carried about on 
temporary sojourns in different parts of the king- 
dom, to the marked displeasure of William IV., 
who did not like to be reminded how he was only 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 149 

a caretaker of the throne. But more than one 
of the royal family still kept residences at Kew, 
which, along with her interest in the Gardens, 
made Queen Victoria no stranger here. 

William IV. did not live at Kew after his 
boyhood, though he showed his favour for the 
place by enlarging the church. Between his 
naval service and his accession, he had homes not 
far off, first at Richmond, then at Bushey Park, 
in the house turned into a National Physical 
Laboratory by almost the last public act of 
Queen Victoria. During the scare of the French 
invasion, we find the Sailor Prince enrolling him- 
self as a private in the Teddington Volunteers, 
perhaps a mere honorary enlistment, as elsewhere 
he is spoken of as commanding a Volunteer force 
styled the Spelthorne Legion, Spelthorne being 
the south-western Hundred of Middlesex. Loyal 
Kew did not fail to have its own company, with 
the chief gardener as lieutenant, and John Haver- 
field as Chairman of the Committee appointed at 
a general meeting of the inhabitants, August 3, 
1803. The strength of the company was 
sixty men, with two drummers, two fifers, a 
fugleman and an armourer ; and there appears 
to have been no lack of recruits, one of the rules 



150 KEW GARDENS 

providing that vacancies should be filled up 
" from those who have offered their services, 
according to their character and permanent con- 
tinuance in the Parish." Discipline was main- 
tained by fines, as in the case of " Every person 
appearing intoxicated at drill or exercise shall 
immediately quit the ranks, and be fined one 
shilling." This made part of what is spoken of 
as the King's Own Regiment, and doubtless it did 
not want for royal countenance. 

When Victoria came to the throne, it is 
understood that some bigoted Tories inclined 
towards a plot for raising the cry of "No 
Popery ! " as excuse for giving the Crown to 
Ernest, Duke of Cumberland, who, without 
question, succeeded to Hanover. This bigoted 
and bitter-tongued Prince was the most unpopular 
of the whole family, so that, on William's death, 
the Duke of Wellington advised him to clear 
out of England as fast as possible, "and take 
care you don't get pelted." He offended his 
mother by marrying a divorced princess, on whom 
the moral Queen looked coldly ; the scandal- 
loving Charles Greville reports that one of Her 
Majesty's latest seizures was brought on by her 
wrath when she heard how the Duchesses of 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 151 

Cumberland and Cambridge had embraced each 
other in Kew Gardens. Ernest was by no means 
a fool, and seems to have had a good deal of 
character and courage, but also a perfect itch for 
rubbing people's sore points. In his German 
kingdom he ruled with a high hand, getting his 
own way more easily than in England, and play- 
ing the bully not only with those who opposed 
him, but with his subservient courtiers, as 
appears in the reminiscences of his chaplain, 
Mr. Wilkinson. 

The hatred for him in London had come out 
at the time of a mysterious tragedy enacted 
(1810) in his apartments at St. James's, when the 
Duke was found bleeding from several sword 
cuts, and in an adjoining room, locked inside, his 
Piedmontese valet, Sellis, lay dead with his throat 
cut. The coroner's jury gave a verdict that 
Sellis had committed suicide after trying to 
assassinate his master ; but many were inclined 
to believe that the murder had been " the other 
way on " ; and an unfortunate printer went to 
prison for publishing such suspicions. A genera- 
tion later, heads were again shaken over a strange 
robbery of the registers from Kew Church : men 
whispered the name of one illustrious parishioner 



152 KEW GARDENS 

who might have an interest in hiding some 
record of his youth. Nothing seemed too bad 
to be believed of this Prince, whose ambition 
to reign over us, if attained, would probably 
have turned the kingdom into a republic. 

The Duke of Cumberland had a house at 
Kew, which stood at the north-west corner of 
the Green, and became adapted as the present 
Herbarium and Library, the new block built 
after his death in 1851. Here he lived occasion- 
ally even while King of Hanover ; and here was 
born his son Prince George, whose birthday was 
long kept on the Green, as an old inhabitant 
tells us : " We used to have the climbing-pole, 
the jumping in sacks, the grinning through horse- 
collars, the running for shifts, and the pig with a 
soaped tail, to the infinite delight of the laughter- 
loving section of the parish." This British-born 
Prince was the blind King of Hanover, who, so 
sadly inheriting one of his grandfather's infirmi- 
ties, lived to be dethroned by the Prussian 
armies, and to retire to a paradise exile among 
the Austrian lakes, its lovely scenery lost on him, 
while, like his grandfather, he found comfort in 
music. I can recall a touching glimpse of him 
in his latter days as he came out of a London 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 153 

hotel leaning on the arm of an equerry or 
some such attendant, whose duty, one supposes, 
would be to nudge his master when any saluta- 
tions had to be done. A small crowd of butchers' 
and bakers' boys and the like had gathered to 
stare at the equipage, and the blind King bowed 
graciously right and left to an unappreciative 
public, that simply stared at him without the 
least sign of respect. 

The one branch of the royal family that kept 
up closer connection with Kew, till quite lately, 
was the Cambridges. The good-natured and 
popular Prince Adolphus had his town residence 
at Cambridge House, Piccadilly, afterwards 
occupied by Lord Palmerston, now the Naval 
and Military Club, known to cabmen as the " In 
and Out," from the drive behind which it stands 
back from the street. The Duke of Cambridge 
held also Cambridge Cottage, marked by its 
portico, on the west side of the Green ; and it 
was in the church here that he gave amusement 
and scandal by his habit of talking aloud to 
himself, after a trick of his father's. When the 
parson read out " Let us pray," the Duke would 
respond, "With all my heart," but when the 
prayer for rain came on, he audibly remarked 



154 KEW GARDENS 

" No use till the wind changes ! " Then on the 
story of Zacchaeus being read, " Behold, the half 
of my goods I give to the poor," his Royal 
Highness's outspoken comment was " No, no ! 
that's too much for any man no objection to 
a tenth!" The Rev. Mr. Wilkinson, in the 
Reminiscences above-mentioned, asserts that one 
nervous curate was driven out of the parish by 
princely interruptions to the service, not to 
speak of criticisms on the sermon. " A damned 
good sermon ! " was the remark Sir William 
Gregory heard him make, coming out of a 
London chapel where the preacher had eloquently 
held forth against swearing. The Duke was 
buried in Kew Church, while his brother of 
Sussex chose to "lie among the people" at 
Kensal Green, where indeed he lies among such 
mere " people " as Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Tom 
Hood, Sydney Smith, Isambard Brunei, George 
Cruikshank, John Leech, and a whole academy 
of R.A/S. In Kensal Green Cemetery also was 
buried the last Duke of Cambridge, beside his 
wife Mrs. Fitz-George, who seems to have won 
love as well as respect in her anomalous position. 
This Duke, the Commander-in-Chief of our 
day, was born and partly brought up in Hanover, 



THE VILLAGE : IN AND ABOUT IT 155 

of which his father had been Regent. He had 
there two English nurses, Mrs. Page and Mrs. 
Ford, names that gave George IV. the cue for a 
jocular remark, " The Merry Wives of Windsor." 
It was after King William's death, when Ernest 
succeeded to Hanover, that the Cambridge 
family came back to live at Kew, of which their 
eldest son is found remarking in Olendorffian 
style, " The houses we occupy are very bad, but 
the place itself is very cheerful." It is not 
recorded of him that he interfered with the 
Church service, though his everyday language 
was criticised as too much borrowed from its 
comminatory forms. In 1866, his sister, the 
Princess Mary of Cambridge, was married at 
Kew Church to the Duke of Teck, to whom 
was given the White Lodge in Richmond Park, 
whence came a bride for our present Prince of 
Wales. 

The last quasi-royal function at Kew was 
the marriage in 1899 of the Princess Marie, 
grandchild of the Dowager Grand Duchess of 
Mecklenburg-Strelitz, who, as daughter of the 
former Duke of Cambridge, is the sole surviving 
grand-daughter of George III. At the parish 
church, in presence of the Prince of Wales and 



156 KEW GARDENS 

several other members of the royal family, the 
young Princess was married to Count Jametal, 
by a bevy of clergymen, among whom the Rev. 
F. F. Reavely, Rector of Lexham, took a chief 
part at the Grand Duchess' special request. 
The wedding breakfast was given at Cambridge 
Cottage, which, till the death of the late Duke, 
remained a link between Kew and royalty. 
It is understood to have been since offered to 
various members of the royal family, who 
declined it as involving too much expense in 
repairs and upkeep ; and it now seems likely to 
be in some way turned to public use, like the 
rest of King George's property here. 



VISITING THE GARDENS 

KEW has grown out to run into Richmond by 
blocks of commonplace suburban houses, some 
of which boast to stand on a dozen feet of 
gravel. The quaint Georgian mansions have 
mostly sunk in relative importance; and the 
homely cottages that once neighboured them 
have gone, or are like to go, though some of 
them still do a trade in refreshments, notably in 
sixpenny and ninepenny teas served to holiday 
parties. One side of the Green, turning from 
the Bridge to the main gate, is a row of houses 
and gardens of entertainment, at the doors of 
which, on a Sunday afternoon, clamorous touts 
strive to draw in the coming and going streams 
of sightseers, thus admitted to dwellings where 
celebrities of the past may once have been at 
home. This is a sign how as Kew waned in 

157 



158 KEW GARDENS 

aristocratic favour, it waxed as a scene of 
popular resort, through the attractions of its 
oasis in Greater London's desert of brick and 
mortar. 

From all parts of London it is easy to get to 
Kew, by railways from north and south to 
either side of the river, by tramways to the 
Brentford end of the Bridge, by omnibuses, of 
which specimens may soon be worth preserving 
in museums along with fossil trees and Ichthyo- 
saurus skeletons ; and by steamboats plying in 
summer time up the devious reaches of the 
river. The Gardens are open at all reasonable 
hours of daylight, and their hot-houses after 
midday. It is on Sunday and holiday after- 
noons, naturally, that His Majesty's subjects take 
most advantage of their privileges, and, of course, 
fine weather will help to waft abroad the poet's 
invitation to "Come down to Kew in lilac- 
time" 

And you shall wander hand in hand with love in summer's 
wonderland. 

The nightingale is rather rare and yet they say you'll hear 

him there, 
At Kew, at Kew in lilac- time (and oh, so near to London !) 



VISITING THE GARDENS 159 

The linnet and the throstle, too, and after dark the long 

halloo, 
And golden-eyed tit-whit, tu-ivhoo of owls that ogle London. 

For Noah hardly knew a bird of any kind that isn't heard 
At Kew, at Kew in lilac-time (and oh, so near to London !) 
And when the rose begins to pout and all the chestnut spires 

are out 
You'll hear the rest without a doubt, all chorusing for 

London. 

This minstrel, as is the way witli his order, 
has an eye upon one sweetest season and upon 
one frequent class of visitors, who, when they 
get to Kew, might almost as well, it seems, be 
anywhere else. Noah, whose ornithological 
experience should have been larger than Mr. 
Noyes contemplates, was familiar with a pheno- 
menon often seen at Kew, of visitors going in 
couples, all eyes for one another, with no more 
regard to their leafy and flowery surroundings 
than may suffice to give a vague sense of tread- 
ing primrose paths. Such pairs are observed to 
seek out retired nooks, where perhaps they light 
on a wonderland hidden from more curious 
survey. I can tell of a blind man every day 
taking a walk in those spacious gardens. One can 
see spectacled gentlemen peering into the hot- 
houses and museums, who may be suspected of 



160 KEW GARDENS 

a studious intent. But by far the majority of 
holiday visitors come clearly in a true holiday 
spirit, roaming here and there like butterflies 
from clump to clump of bloom or greenery, to 
carry away a general impression of something 
bearing the same relation to their own familiar 
back gardens as Windsor Castle or Chatsworth 
to a semi-detached suburban villa. 

The visitors make as miscellaneous a collec- 
tion as the plants. Exotic promenaders will be 
common on Sundays, when our foreign guests 
are apt to complain of a want of public amuse- 
ments. All classes are represented, from dis- 
guised millionaires perhaps seeking a hint for 
their own newly laid out grounds, to servant 
girls fondly persuaded that the lilies of the field 
can show nothing to match the glories of their 
holiday array. Family parties are much in 
evidence. There is always a large proportion of 
youngsters, whose parents and guardians may be 
tempted to improve the occasion with useful 
information, more or less correct. Here would 
be a chance for Mr. Barlow to open the minds 
of Masters Sandford and Merton, or for the 
tutor of Evenings at Home to lecture his in- 
quisitive pupils. But the reader need not be 



VISITING THE GARDENS 161 

afraid of me as likely to abuse an opportunity of 
being dull and dry, if I were qualified to play the 
botanic pedagogue. I shall not even attempt to 
be a guide to the Gardens, which have their own 
official hand-books sold at the entrance ; I only 
invite the visitor to stroll about with me in a 
desultory manner, while together we make a few 
observations and reflections on this great national 
collection. 

Kew Gardens have been boasted the finest 
and most complete botanical collection in the 
world, as they certainly are if a handicap be 
allowed for a climate suggesting the antipodes 
of Eden. Their chief rival is perhaps the 
Buitenzorg Gardens of Java, where the Dutch 
turn for horticulture has full play upon the 
glories of tropical vegetation brought as it were 
to a focus. A thousand feet above the sea, 
amid magnificent volcanic forest-clad scenery, 
Buitenzorg, Sans Souci, the Richmond of 
Batavia, basks under a sunny sky that yet is by 
no means parching, for Miss North was inter- 
rupted at her easel here by rain coming down 
regularly each afternoon in such sheets and 
torrents that five minutes would turn the roads 
into streams a foot deep. The gardeners need 



162 KEW GARDENS 

be at little trouble or expense for watering this 
exuberant greenery, through which runs an 
avenue of foliage arched a hundred feet above 
the ground, each tree wreathed with a different 
creeper, "sending down sheets of greenery and 
lovely flowers." Here, amid a court of "all the 
gorgeous water-lilies of the world," the Victoria 
Regia flourishes in the open air, as at Kew only in 
its hothouse shelter. Here grows the Rafflesia, 
named after Sir Stamford Raffles founder of 
our Zoological Gardens, as of Singapore called 
the largest flower in the world, at Kew re- 
presented only by a wax model, which seems 
just as well, since this vegetable monster, 
measuring some yards across, soon becomes 
foully infested by insects, so as to putrefy with 
a disgusting smell. Here, too, a palm like a 
gigantic primrose is said to have the largest fruit 
and the largest leaves of any tree in the world, 
the former two, and the latter ten feet in 
diameter. For Javan curators, indeed, the 
trouble is to provide in coo/-houses such shelter 
as artificially heated conservatories are under our 
scrimped sunshine ; and a separate Garden, some 
thousands of feet higher up, makes an asylum 
for our familiar plants carefully cultivated as a 



VISITING THE GARDENS 163 

pigmy show of exotics in the East. Our most 
tenderly nursed enclosures might cut a poor 
figure in a climate that does its own gardening. 
With all the money spent at Kew, one can 
imagine what results might be produced, where, 
outside of the Gardens, Miss North could draw 
a picture far more highly coloured than anything 
fairly to be said for Kew Green, or for the 
Thames bank at Brentford. 

The view from the bridge in the very High Street of 
Buitenzorg was the richest scene I ever saw. A rushing 
river running deep down between high banks, covered 
with a tangle of huge bamboos, palms, tree-ferns, bread- 
fruit, bananas, and papaw trees, matted together with 
creepers, every individual plant seeming finer and fresher 
than other specimens of the same sort, and the larger such 
plants were, the grander their curves. Then they had the 
most exquisite little basket-work dwellings hidden away 
amongst them, and in the distance was a bamboo bridge 
a sort of magnified human spider's web. Looking 
straight along the street from the bridge was another 
pretty view little shops full of gaily coloured things, 
such as scarlet janiboa fruit, yellow bananas, pomelas, 
melons, pines, and hot peppers of the brightest reds and 
greens. Pretty birds in bamboo cages, people in every 
shade of purple, scarlet, pink, turquoise blue, emerald 
green, and lemon yellow ; small copper-coloured children 
carrying all their garments on the tops of their heads, 
grass-cutters carrying inverted cones of green fastened to 
their bamboos and almost hiding them. Long avenues 



164 KEW GARDENS 

of huge banyan trees bordered the principal drive to the 
palace, with large birdVnest ferns growing on their 
branches, each tree forming a small plantation of itself, 
with its hanging roots and offsets from the branches. 
Herds of spotted deer used to rest in the shade under 
these trees, and parties of the great crested ground pigeon, 
as big as turkeys, were always to be found there. 

The Botanic Garden near Rio de Janeiro, 
also, has tropical features we can hardly match, 
such as its colonnade of palms, a living temple 
overtopping the suburban avenues in which tram 
lines have been planted by foreign capital. Then 
the Gardens of Peradenia in Ceylon gather such 
a bouquet of choice flora as an enraptured 
traveller compares to " the paradise of some 
Eastern tale, designed and inhabited by invisible 
genii." Our Australian colonies, so well off for 
sun, if not for water, are undertaking to show the 
Old Country what can be done in this way by 
children freed from some of her disadvantages. 
Sydney, besides its rich Botanic Gardens, can 
afford to keep stretches of wild scenery preserved 
in all their unkempt luxuriance ; and behind 
Melbourne Nature itself has a giant grove of 
gum-trees, rising from the undergrowth of ferns 
that with us would rank as tall trees. And, of 
course, in many other parts of the world, com- 



VISITING THE GARDENS 165 

paratively little expense can bring together a 
collection of our rare and delicate blooms, there 
ranking as weeds. 

AVe are better off for money and skill, that at 
Kew have done so much to acclimatise or safe- 
guard the productions of more favoured climes. 
What may be called the heart of the Gardens, 
on the side towards the Richmond road, is the 
Great Palm House, hardly great enough, as 
from time to time some of its pushing guests 
have to be turned out or snuffed down for fear 
of their prising off the roof. This huge hot- 
house enshrines a medley collection of tropical 
forms, grand and graceful, brought together from 
Africa, Asia, America and Polynesia, getting 
their fill of heat and moisture, if not of sunshine. 
One guide-book says that almost every variety 
of palms is represented in the exotic jumble, 
which is rather too much to say, as their species 
are counted by hundreds, about a hundred in 
the woods of the Amazon alone. The most 
striking trees here, looking ill at ease in the 
confinement of their tubs, are specimens of the 
pandanus or screw -pine, with its sword -like 
leaves and its stilt-like roots, propping the top 
in the air "with its trunk hid for repairs, as 



166 KEW GARDENS 

it were, among an enclosure of scaffolding." 
Young and eupeptic visitors will inquire for the 
coco-nut, whose fruit reaches them only in a 
dry, curdled, shrunken state, poorly representing 
its fibrous green globes filled with soft butter 
and refreshing milk. The double coco -nut of 
the Seychelles to be seen here is only a distant 
relation, whose nuts, like a pair of giant's boxing- 
gloves joined together, grow " full of white jelly, 
enough to fill the largest soup-tureen." It was 
one of General Gordon's crotchets to regard this 
as the forbidden fruit of Eden ; but at Kew, Eve 
could surely have found apples more tempting 
of aspect for example, the Japanese date-plum 
in the Succulent House. One must not, how- 
ever, attempt a catalogue of all the vegetable 
strangers coaxed and coddled to grow in an 
asylum, which might have taken a larger scale 
had a proposal been carried out to transfer 
the Crystal Palace to Kew rather than to 
Norwood. 

Near the Palm House stands the Tropical 
Lily House, where now the Victoria Regia 
should open in July its huge white flowers tinged 
with royal red. This queen of water-lilies, that 
first flowered in Britain at Chatsworth, has to 



VISITING THE GARDENS 167 

content itself here with a tank, as an exiled 
sovereign may have to come down to hotel 
lodgings ; but in its native Guiana, it blocks up 
canals and spangles lake swamps opening in the 
flowery woods. The leaves are often as broad 
as a man's height, with upturned rims, so that 
Indian women can cradle their children upon 
them safely while the mother does her washing 
in the river fringed with such weeds of truly 
"glorious feature." In the same conservatory, 
among other water-plants, are the papyrus reeds 
among which Moses was set floating, in our day 
crowded out of fertile Egypt, but they are found 
growing lustily so near as Sicily ; while their 
old economic importance, that naturalised the 
name in our language, has dwindled now that 
we can turn wood-pulp into cheap paper. 

I lately found the Victoria Regia enthroned 
in this, its original nursery; but a guide-book 
locates it in what, I understand, was its quarters 
for a time, the group of hot-houses numbered 
from seven to thirteen, which stand not far from 
the Cumberland Gate entrance. They have a 
show of other aquatic plants, and freaks of Nature 
like the pitcher-plants and living fly-traps, able 
to feed themselves on insects lured to their 



168 KEW GARDENS 

intoxicating cups that act upon the drugged 
victim like the digestive organs of an animal. 
Here are billeted the delicate orchids, living on 
moist warm air, which in our day have been 
brought to flower in succession all through the 
year, even by electric light under the smoky 
glass of Birmingham, sought out for our hot- 
houses so diligently that in their tropical wilds 
some of the richest sorts begin to grow rare, 
while of a thousand specimens gained perhaps at 
the cost of felling as many trunks, but a few 
may survive the trying journey, at the end of 
which is worth more than its weight in gold 
what ran wild as a parasite weed in the tree-tops 
of the Magdalena or the Orinoco. 

This group of hot -houses cools off into a 
conservatory of South African plants, containing 
potted heaths such as bloom over vast stretches 
of Karroo, along with specimens of the curious 
Japanese art of dwarfing trees. For a contrast 
to these nurseries of tender exotics, one might 
turn to the Rock Garden beside them, towards 
the Cumberland Gate, where Alpine and other 
hardy growths thrive in a hollow set with rockery 
supplied by the destruction of one or more of 
those fanciful structures of the Georgian age 



VISITING THE GARDENS 169 

that still dot the grounds here and there Temple 
of ^Eolus, Temple of the Sun, and so forth. 
Beyond the Rock Garden lies the Herbaceous 
Ground's gathering of homely plants ; and at its 
entrance, overshadowed by Museum II., a little 
Alpine House accommodates Nature's hardy 
dwarfs, needing no such costly shelter as her 
tropical Brobdignagians. 

But we have not yet done with the hot- 
houses. Just beyond the egress of the South 
African annexe, another group begins with the 
Succulent House, holding a store of fleshy, 
scaly, spiky and prickly forms of the cactus and 
aloe tribes, having so many odd uses, as the 
" vegetable cows " milked three times a day in 
Mexico, that their juice may be fermented into 
the national thin tipple pulque, tasting like 
buttermilk with a dash of sulphur, while the 
root of another aloe yields mezcal as a stronger 
drink. One American cactus is not so carefully 
cultivated as it once was to rear the cochineal 
insect that dyed "England's cruel red," now 
procured more cheaply from aniline dyes first 
made under the group of tall chimneys below 
Harrow Hill. In South Africa aloes grow 
almost as tall as chimney stacks, so it would take 



170 KEW GARDENS 

the British Museum dome to house them. This 
indeed is not the same plant as the American 
aloe, better distinguished as the agave, whose 
flowering stem may rise to the height of half 
a dozen men, so here we must be content witli 
miniature specimens to fit the Succulent House. 
Beside this collection stands a greenhouse glow- 
ing with bloom inside panes dimmed by frosty 
fog ; then beyond open smaller nurseries of 
tropical and filmy ferns. Outside, here, is sup- 
ported a huge wistaria, once wreathing the 
walls of a conservatory now removed. 

Last comes, what may be visited first, as its 
Grecian front almost faces the main entrance, 
the Aroid House, describable as a chapel of ease 
to the Palm House, close packed with a smaller 
congregation of swollen greenery, sucking in the 
edifying moisture that congeals on the glassy 
walls, and blinds for a minute or two one's 
spectacled eyes, suddenly brought from the 
atmosphere of our zone to that of the Equator. 

From such artificial snuggeries it seems 
doubly dismal to turn out into the raw air of a 
truly British November, in which a few forlorn 
roses may still be struggling to hold up their 
faded heads, and dank evergreens wear hardly 



VISITING THE GARDENS 171 

a more cheerful aspect than the sere leaves, " last 
of their clan," that flutter down to be swept 
off the glistening grass. And yet those repre- 
sentatives of another climate, so carefully 
gathered and preserved, give but a poor idea of 
the teeming wildernesses that know no change 
of season but from baking heat to swamping rain, 
their rank vegetation always glowing under the 
breath of a fierce spring, while decaying in ever- 
lasting autumn beneath the richest mantles, and 
if there be any winter it is the daily frost of 
paralysing heat. The tropics come more truly 
before us in descriptions such as one might quote 
from a score of eloquent travellers, for example 
this by an American writer, W. H. Hurlbut : 

The wastes of Northern Cuba are jungles of closely 
twining plants, gay with the myriad hues of strange, 
magnificent flowers, and overtopped by gigantic trees, 
whose trunks are not less gay with fantastic embroideries, 
and from whose Briarean arms hang countless veils and 
fringes of creeping plants, the names of which cause 
upon the ear the same indefinite impression of savage 
magnificence that is made by their blended, indistinguish- 
able forms upon the eye. All things which to us of the 
temperate zones are creatures of boxes and bales, creations, 
we might perhaps as truly say, of the merchant and the 
grocer, meet us here at every turn, wild and bold in the 
woods ; the fan-like cacao tree, the spreading vanilla, the 



172 KEW GARDENS 

parasite tamarind, the gaunt and desolate guava. The 
cactus no longer struggles for existence in the feeble sun- 
shine of a three -pair back window with a southern 
exposure, but, swollen to the size of a scrub oak, impedes 
your way with its dull, hideous, prickly leaves, and flaunts 
its great flowers in your face. You may cure your thirst 
by day with the sweet clear waters of the cocoa-nut. You 
may cool your heated eyes by night with such floods of 
golden moonlight as would have driven Shelley mad. 
The moon, which gives expression to the most tedious 
landscape and the most unmeaning face, and converts the 
delight of gazing upon beauty into a kind of frenzy, the 
moon makes all men Endymions in Cuba. 

But if, amid hints and samples of such 
luxuriance, the well-clad visitor feels his spirit 
" falter in the mist " and be inclined to " languish 
for the purple seas " of the South, let him consider 
how with a certain relief he escapes from the 
damp, dripping, sticky heat of these glass-houses 
into our untempered breezes, a little exercise 
soon setting his blood in tune with a climate 
that from the cradle goads one to be always 
doing something, if only throwing stones, that 
here would be a most objectionable pastime for 
our versatile youth. It is the sons of a 
temperate zone who are stirred into building 
palm houses or setting out to hunt for treasures 
of the tropics, when tired of hunting in play 



VISITING THE GARDENS 173 

wild animals kept for the purpose at home. As 
further comfort, let a stay-at-home study the 
reports of travellers to note how soon they grow 
sick of tropical glare and glow, of the crude 
and garish tints of rank evergreenery, of the 
" chromo-lithograph midsummer" that wants 
tenderness, sweetness, variety, and contrast, of 
the endless monotonies of shade and the blinding 
dazzle of perpetual sunshine chequered by a 
"scorched darkness" that brings no rest how 
they sigh for refreshing showers that come in 
their season as a devastating deluge, for weeks 
and months together turning into feverish mud 
the choking dust and the soil cracked as if 
gasping for breath, where masterful Nature, if at 
least she knows her own mind, is always in 
violent extremes. I was once in a desert oasis 
when it had the prodigious experience of a wet 
day, not in bursts of storm but in gently drop- 
ping rain, and I shall never forget the satisfaction 
with which the natives turned out to bask in 
weather so familiar to us as to be hardly worth 
grumbling at. 

I, too, have peeped into those stifling Arcadias, 
and have known what it is to hail a "mango 
shower " or a sea breeze. But I quote for high 



174 KEW GARDENS 

and wide authority a Ulysses indeed, Dr. A. R. 
Wallace, who after years spent in the richest 
regions on both sides of the world, can tell us 
that the luscious shows picked into a nosegay 
in our hot -houses ill counterfeit those natural 
jungles where blossoms are drowned in a flood 
of sombre green, and the brightest flowers, 
climbing upwards in the universal struggle for 
light, waste their full blown beauty on the 
parching sky, invisible to the wanderer, unless 
in an airship he could surmount the lofty roof 
of foliage beneath which he may have to push 
and hew his tunnelled way through obstruction 
of dense underwood. This explorer declares 
that he has wandered for days in tropical forests 
without coming on any bloom so gay as a haw- 
thorn or a honeysuckle ; and he has never seen 
in Brazil or Malaysia "such brilliant masses of 
colour as even England can show in her furze- 
clad commons, her heathery mountain-sides, her 
glades of wild hyacinth, her fields of poppies, 
her meadows of buttercups and daisies." 

Sir E. Im Thurn bears out Wallace's view 
with some qualification: "At no time is the 
Guiana leafage as splendid as in an ordinary 
English wood either in the early spring or in 



VISITING THE GARDENS 175 

the glorious golden autumn time. But on the 
other hand, the tropical forest throughout the 
year is more variously coloured . . . due partly 
to the fact that without special season for the 
bursting or the fall of the leaves, throughout the 
year it has trees both putting out new leaves, 
white, or brilliantly tinted with green, pink, or 
red, and others from which drop leaves with red, 
yellow, and bronze colours burned deeply into 
them by the blazing sun ; and partly to the fact 
that in it trees of innumerable kinds, each with 
foliage slightly distinct in colour, grow inter- 
mingled. . . . The whole amount of colour 
afforded by flowers is probably not very different 
in tropical and in temperate trees, but is differ- 
ently distributed." But, to be fair to the tropical 
woods, so often drowned in the exuberance of 
their own greenery, it should be remembered 
how river banks and other open edges may show 
bright with hanging clusters of bloom and radiant 
festoons climbing to the tree -tops, while the 
ground, parched and swamped by turns, will lack 
that carpet of sweet and humble flowers, spring- 
ing among soft turf, that is the special charm of 
an English spring. 

" What can they know of England who only 



176 KEW GARDENS 

England know," seems at present the favourite 
tag of imperially minded journalists. It might 
be more truly said that only they who know 
the world know how much England has to be 
thankful for in the climate we are so ready to 
abuse. Their eyes are opened to see how Nature 
in our island has all the loveliest tints on her 
palette, to paint ever-changing pictures that owe 
their chief charm to the supposed defect of 
uncertainty, even as your Didos and Cleopatras 
varium et mutabile would less surely enchant 
in the form of stereotyped models of the most 
admired virtues. 

Then a drawback to tropical scenes on which 
travellers are emphatically in one tale, is the 
innumerable plagues bred in such hot air as we 
imitate at Kew here filtered from its hostile 
engenderings the maddening mosquitoes that 
swarm in equatorial forests as on Arctic tundras ; 
the legions of ants, white, red, and black, that 
prey upon the traveller's kit and torture his skin 
like a shirt of Nessus ; harpy moths that have 
to be driven from one's food ; swarms of earwigs 
which some African adventurers have found the 
hatefulest enemy of their march. Kew breeds 
no serpent or vampire like those haunting natural 



VISITING THE GARDENS 177 

paradises where the blaze that scares away lions 
or leopards only attracts darting spiders and 
scurrying scorpions to a couch already made 
restless by buzzing and biting pests ; where the 
ground hides flesh-burrowing ticks and fleas, and 
the air is thick with invisible stings, and the 
trees bear venomous caterpillars ; where one 
durst not smell a flower for fear of inhaling 
some noxious parasite, and our loathsomest 
bugs would seem hardly worth noticing among 
bloated cockroaches and hideous centipedes ; 
where countless flies lay seeds of death in man 
and beast, not to speak of clouds of locusts that 
sometimes darken the sky like a snow-storm, 
and if they could cross the Channel, might fall 
on this Thames-side garden to eat up its greenery 
in an hour. 

And the noises of those sweltering thickets, 
which at night a new-comer in South America 
compares to some factory worked by whirling, 
whistling and hissing demons ! Even the gloomy 
stillness of noon, broken by the fall of some big 
fruit thudding to the ground like a cannon-ball, 
or by some seed-capsule exploding with a report 
like a shot, even this heavy siesta of Nature is 
not altogether voiceless, for beneath it, as Hum- 

23 



178 KEW GARDENS 

boldt says, one can catch a faint stifled under- 
tone, a buzz and hum of insects that crowd the 
earth and the lowest strata of air, a confused 
vibrating murmur, which from every bush, from 
the cracked bark of trees, from the soil burrowed 
by creeping things, proclaims life audibly manifest 
to him who listens. But it is the evening, our 
emblem of peace, the welcome twilight through 
which the ploughboy goes whistling home, that 
wakes tropical shades to an untuned concert of 
croaking, screaming, chattering, wailing, howling, 
and humming, when the darkness seems alive 
with invisible cracklings, patterings, scratchings, 
skippings and rustlings, silenced for the moment 
by the blood-curdling growl and crashing spring 
of some beast of prey, and the piercing death- 
screech of its victim echoing far where every 
foot of ground is scene for nightly tragedies. 
One need be no Macbeth to have one's sleep 
murdered by alarms and excursions for which 
heated imagination acts as a megaphone. " The 
clamour of the jackals over a carcass suggests 
a band of hungry wolves. A mongoose having 
it out with a rat beneath the floor is like an 
animal Armageddon. Does your faithful dog 
growl in the verandah, you make sure a leopard 



VISITING THE GARDENS 179 

is about to pounce upon him. A restless horse 
seems to be trampling like a must elephant 
And perhaps over all comes the roar of the 
tiger, nothing indeed to be afraid of, as he would 
go silent enough if attending to his bad business. 
Such are the torments of a sweltering Indian 
night, that give an Englishman cause to thank 
the goodness and the grace that made his birth- 
place in a land where a caterwauling puss or a 
scratching mouse would be the worst of nocturnal 
bugbears." 

We Britons, lulled to sleep by the tramp of 
the policeman and the watch-dog's honest bark, 
have some reason for calling "sour grapes" to 
the products of those giant greenhouse regions, 
East and South, where Nature appears to ex- 
haust herself in labyrinths of swelling beauty and 
grandeur. But if the tropical trees had tongues, 
they might tell us that we do not judge them 
fairly in this cramped setting, fettered beneath 
roofs of glass, condemned to unnatural silence 
and restraint; imprisoned along with strange 
companions ; stinted from full meals of equatorial 
storm to the trickling of a rubber hose that can 
no longer clasp their trunks in creeping embraces ; 
robbed of the sunshine that floods their native 



180 KEW GARDENS 

air with fiery gold, and given in exchange the 
dull comfort of hot- water pipes ; deserted by the 
radiant birds, the shining insects, and the glitter- 
ing reptiles that should people their drooping 
branches, among which the stir of missing 
monkey - troops seems feebly aped by the 
murmurs and movements of workmen hidden 
in the galleries. 

For another kind of more or less unfamiliar 
vegetation we must seek the Temperate House, 
further up the central walks towards the Pagoda. 
In this, boasting itself the largest winter garden 
in the world, are collected specimens of sun- 
loving plants, from the acacias of Australia to 
the cacti of Mexico. The most venerable growth 
here seems a shoot of that now crumbled dragon- 
tree at Orotava, which Humboldt renowned as 
the oldest tree in the world. The most imposing 
are the araucarias in the central aisles, one of 
them the famous Norfolk Island pine, that in its 
own home will reach a height of two hundred 
feet. Some of these Antipodean strangers can be 
won to grow in British soil ; some would flourish 
under its sky, but for their rooted habit of being 
most active in our nipping winter. For to their 
native soil, the seasons, of course, come reversed 



VISITING THE GARDENS 181 

from ours, where colonial children must be 
puzzled by our poets' view of January and of 
July, as we are by allusions seasonable at the 
other end of the world : 

Perspiring round our Christmas fare, 
In vain we long for snow : 
Midsummer day, we fain would sit 
Around the Yule-tide's glow. 

The characteristic growth of Australia is the 
eucalyptus or gum-tree, in its many varieties, 
among which the blue gum is best known as 
widely transplanted to thrive in Europe and 
other parts of the globe. One species seems 
entitled to the distinction of being the tallest of 
trees, growing to a height of four hundred and 
fifty feet and more, so as perhaps to look down 
even upon the mammoth sequoia of California, 
which we have so impertinently renamed the 
Wellingtonia. The question of aerial precedence 
between these two, indeed, depending upon 
doubtful measurements, may be taken as not 
quite settled, and Uncle Sam is loth to admit 
anything of his as less than the greatest in 
the world ; but he should know how Sir J. D. 
Hooker is quoted by Grant Duff as setting 
down his boastful mammoths for ugly trees, 



182 KEW GARDENS 

which is what no one can say of John Bull's 
oaks. 

The isolated specimens of Australian vegeta- 
tion cabined and cribbed at Kew, give no fair 
sample of the eucalyptus forests in which leagues 
upon leagues of bare straight stems, standing 
sullenly apart, will rise from a hundred to two 
hundred feet before throwing out their scraggy 
crown of dull and drooping foliage, that casts a 
thin unchanging shade upon the ground littered 
with peeling bark rather than with fallen leaves. 
In this monotonous scenery one might be grate- 
ful for our vernal woods and autumnal hedge- 
rows ; and still more so when lost in one of the 
" scrubs," packed close with malicious dwarf trees, 
thorny bushes, spear-like grasses, and tangled 
heaths, that are the dry jungles of Australia's 
inland plains. 

Australia, besides her tree-like flowers, has 
trees rich in bright blooms : the " fire-tree " and 
the "flame-tree" that make a blaze of red and 
orange upon hill-sides miles away, the crooked 
" honeysuckle " with its yellow " bottle brushes," 
the odd " grass-tree " bearing up a tuft of sharp 
leaves from which springs several feet of flowery 
stalk, the " miall-tree " with its streaming foliage 



VISITING THE GARDENS 188 

and scent of violets, and the other innumerable 
acacias, here known as " wattles," that can light 
up even the gloom of the scrub with their gay 
blossoms. These growths are apt to run to 
flowers rather than to fruit, the native berries 
being sweeter to the eye than to the tooth ; and, 
while the flowers lack perfume, it is the leaves 
that are often fragrant, sometimes loading the 
air with an aroma wafted leagues out to sea. 
Then there are fine timber-trees, magnificent 
cedars, the umbrageous blackwood, the funereal 
casuarina or she-oak, whose dark branches droop 
willow-like over the fitful streams ; the jarrah 
and the karri belonging to the eucalyptus order, 
the latter voted its most noble form. New 
Zealand, too, has magnificent and beautiful trees 
its kauri, king of conifers, its forests of tree-fern, 
its jungles of flowering shrubs, its glowing rata 
parasite, strangling the trunk that nursed it by 
sucking the sap into its own masses of crimson 
bloom, like a cuckoo of the vegetable world. 
But our first Antipodean colonists would ex- 
change a wilderness of such glories for a patch 
of English turf; and their sons still love to 
surround themselves with the humble garden 
flowers and hardy blossoms of " home," yielding 



184 KEW GARDENS 

to no land in fresh and tender tints, however it 
may be surpassed in gorgeous and gigantic 
growths. Many of our familiar plants, indeed, 
have been introduced at the Antipodes with 
sometimes too much success. The branches of 
apple and pear trees will there break down under 
their teeming crop ; the thistles rashly imported 
into Australia by some patriotic Scot have 
thriven to the rank of a nuisance, like the 
rabbits ; the sturdy British gorse and sweet-brier 
outshoot their native modesty and the design 
of colonists who thought to make them serve as 
hedges ; and our weeds and hedge plants take so 
kindly to New Zealand soil as to have overlaid 
the native flora in some districts, where the 
coarse indigenous grass soon gives place to 
succulent meadows spangled with daisies and 
primroses. Water-cress, transplanted to New 
Zealand, has grown as troublesome as the 
American weed in our canals, to the point of 
causing floods by damming up the streams upon 
which it takes a new exuberant life. 

As measles or influenza fastens upon fresh 
blood like a plague, so do many of our down- 
trodden plants become bumptious and aggressive 
in the stimulating air of a new world, wherever 



VISITING THE GARDENS 185 

they find a not forbidding environment, and a 
fair chance to elbow a place for themselves in 
the struggle for existence. In a less degree, 
the same conquest is to be noted in America, 
the old -settled Eastern States having been 
largely colonised by imported growths, while 
the indigenous flora retreated with the Red Man 
to the inland woods and prairies. From the more 
southerly regions of America, we Europeans 
have got more than we give, in Indian corn, the 
tomato, the pineapple, and the hardy potato, 
that for our damp Western islands has come to 
be the staff of life as it was on the dry sunny 
heights of its native Bolivia, though in Britain, 
as in some parts of the Continent, it had at 
first to live down most pig-headed prejudices. 
Besides naturalising the productions of other 
climates, Kew has the less noted function of 
exporting our seeds to try their luck abroad, as, 
for instance, barrels of acorns hence sent to take 
prosperous root in South Africa. 

For the timbers, huge, rich, rare, beautiful 
and useful, of these exotic trees, and for their 
products, we turn to the Museums and Economic 
Houses that are the most instructive part of this 
exhibition. Here Masters Sandford and Merton 

24 



186 KEW GARDENS 

might spend many days in enlarging their 
mental prospects. The cane, for instance, chiefly 
familiar to them on the seat of chairs, or perhaps 
by a use that renders sitting a property of 
uneasiness, they will learn from Mr. Barlow to 
belong to a great race of arborescent grasses, 
among which the young gentlemen may perhaps 
be most interested in the raw and manufactured 
products of the sugar-cane. Here their well- 
instructed tutor can point out to them how the 
bamboo, prince of this race, is beneficent to 
many peoples, supplying them with paper, ropes, 
hats, weapons, fans, baskets, umbrellas, tents, 
mats, boxes, also houses, bridges, masts, sails, 
ladders, fences, flutes, and other tools, weapons 
and utensils, amply illustrated in the cases of 
Museums II. and III. 

Off the Rhododendron Walk there is a garden 
of feathery bamboos that can make shift to stand 
our open air. In the same quarter, a division 
labelled Betula is also calculated to throw a 
shade over the spirit of Master Merton, if not 
of the blameless Harry Sandford, this in the 
vernacular being a tree of knowledge too well 
known to British youngsters of past generations 
for its base use, frowned on by latter day 



VISITING THE GARDENS 187 

humanitarians, but a smiling jest to the poets 
from Shakespeare to Swinburne 

With all its blithe, lithe bounty of buds and sprays, 
For hapless boys to wince at and grow red, 
And feel a tingling memory prick their skins. 

Now that "the rod becomes more mocked than 
used," birch sprays are most familiar to us in the 
humble usefulness of a broom. Yet on the 
other side of the world there were nations that 
would have been hard put to it to do without 
this tree, used for many offices, but not for that 
above-mentioned, since your cruel Mohawk and 
thick-skinned Huron had a strangely sentimental 
abhorrence of chastising their impish youngsters, 
which, notes a Jesuit missionary, "will hinder 
our design to instruct their youth." But mani- 
fold were other services of birch in the wigwam 
life of the backwoods for walls, roof, furniture, 
clothes, torches, powders, poultices, and what 
not ; bark was the Red Man's cradle and his 
coffin, and the material for his masterpiece of 
skill, the canoe ; it even at a pinch filled empty 
stomachs, that could hold out for days on the 
inner scrapings of bark, when moss, roots, and 
berries failed his improvident hardihood. 

In other parts of the world, the coco-nut 



188 KEW GARDENS 

tree is of still more general utility, since it not 
only "bears at once the cup and milk and fruit," 
but supplies salad from the young shoots and 
toddy from the quickly fermented juice ; bowls 
and lamps from its shells, and from its pulp, oil 
to fill them ; cordage, mats, ornamental wreaths 
and plaited armour from its fibre ; fans, baskets, 
thatch from its leaves ; torches from the ribs, and 
countless other articles of daily use. The Malays, 
who train monkeys to run up the trees and bring 
down nuts for their master, have contrived an 
ingenious clock which Dr. Wallace saw used by 
sailors : in a bucket floats a scraped half-shell 
with a small hole bored in the bottom to let in 
a thread of water at a rate so exactly calculated 
that the shell sinks at the end of an hour. There 
are South Sea islands where brackish water 
makes the people wholly dependent on this tree 
for drink. Then modern trade has given coco- 
nuts a new value, dried in the form of copra and 
shipped to Marseilles and elsewhere, to have the 
oil pressed out for making soap and candles, not 
to mention the "best olive oil" of commerce, 
while the refuse goes as fattening food for cattle. 
That is the main thing we get from Polynesia 
and Micronesia in exchange for trousers, sewing- 



VISITING THE GARDENS 189 

machines, concertinas, and spelling-books. In 
Museums I. and II. our young friends may 
see what delicate and finely tinted cloth those 
islanders could beat out of bark before they 
learned to depend too much on our manufactures, 
being often more healthy and moral without 
the encumbering garments which the early 
missionaries considered essential to godliness. 

For some islands of the South Seas, the 
pandanus, rather, fills the part of universal 
provider. The same thing might be said of 
other trees in their different regions ; but perhaps 
enough has been said on this head, when one 
mentions the Brazilian wax -palm (Copernicia 
cerifera), which, though it makes no great show 
here, according to Mr. J. W. Wells, seems to 
be as much of a tree-of-all-work as any other 
in the world. 

It resists intense and protracted droughts, and is 
always green and vigorous ; it produces an equivalent to 
sarsaparilla ; a nutritious vegetable like cabbage; wine; 
vinegar ; a saccharine substance ; a starch, resembling 
and equivalent to sago ; other substances resemble, or by 
processes are made to substitute maizena, coffee, cork, 
wax, salt, alkali, and coco-nut milk ; and from its various 
materials are manufactured wax-candles, soap, mats, hats, 
musical instruments, water-tubes, pumps, ropes, and cords, 
stakes for fences, timber for joists, rafters, and other 



190 KEW GARDENS 

materials for building purposes, strong and light fibres 
which acquire a beautiful lustre ; and in times of great 
drought it has supplied food for the starving inhabitants. 

Specimens of those products will be found 
chiefly in Museum No. II., illustrating the 
economic uses of endogenous or monocoty- 
ledonous plants, hard words which Mr. Barlow 
might fancifully explain as denoting the gentler 
sex of vegetable Nature, its members, from palms 
to grasses, being inclined to softness, slenderness 
and grace rather than strength. But perhaps 
Sandford and Merton might, for once, do well 
not to listen to their much-informed preceptor, as 
he would probably be imbued with the Linnean 
system of classification, now set aside for a more 
natural one. The robust timber, better supplied 
by sturdily growing exogens, is exhibited in 
Museum III., the original "Orangery" built 
by Sir W. Chambers, that now makes a world- 
fetched show of huge sections of forest giants ; 
polished slabs of ornamental wood ; specimens of 
native ingenuity in workmanship, from bamboo 
toys to an appalling totem post carved upon a 
Queen Charlotte Islands cedar. Another feature 
here is views and plans of the Gardens at 
different periods, the localities often hardly to 



VISITING THE GARDENS 191 

be identified after successive alterations that 
have brought them to their present state. 

The largest, and, on the whole, the most 
attractive of the Museums is No. I., whose red 
face looks across the Pond to the Palm House. 
Its staircase is adorned with a window that 
reminds one of the rebus designs with which 
mediaeval builders recorded their names in a 
material pun, for this, removed from the Guild- 
hall and presented to the Gardens by Alderman 
Cotton, displays on stained glass the stages in 
the growth and manufacture of cotton. The 
catalogue contains over five hundred entries and 
thousands of specimens, most of them capable of 
instructing even Macaulay's schoolboy. A large 
part of the collection was transferred here from 
the India Museum at South Kensington ; but 
all quarters of the world are represented. Here 
we may see in various states, tea, coffee, cocoa, 
wine, tobacco, hops, nutmegs, cloves and other 
more or less familiar friends, with some not so 
well known in Britain, such as mate, the 
Paraguayan tea, which begins to be introduced 
among us, while it -goes out of fashion in 
Argentine cities, still drunk all day long on the 
campos, where also the half-savage Gaucho takes 



192 KEW GARDENS 

too kindly to "square face" gin and to the 
gramophone that drowns the notes of his native 
guitar. Here we may indulge due disgust over 
outlandish intoxicants : the hemp-plants yielding 
"bang" and "hashish," which are in the East 
what gin and absinthe are in the West; the 
poppy, that is a drug to us but elsewhere a 
ruinous dissipation ; the coca leaves, the chewing 
of which gives a Bolivian Indian strength to go 
on for leagues without food, " but thereof comes 
in the end despondency and madness " ; the kava 
root of the South Seas, which, first well chewed 
by strong-jawed young men or girls, then 
steeped in water, gives an infusion like soapsuds 
flavoured with Gregory's powder, a luxury not 
much appreciated by white men, especially after 
seeing its preparation, and usually denied to 
women and youngsters, but ceremoniously 
presented in coco-nut shells to the grave and 
reverend seniors, whom a skinful of it affects 
with a peculiar drunkenness, in the legs rather 
than the head. 

Many medicinal plants here will give us new 
ideas or old qualms : the liquorice root, yielding 
what is still in our country districts known as 
" Spanish juice " ; the senna shrubs, that flourish 



VISITING THE GARDENS 193 

hardily in deserts to furnish black draughts once 
too much imported into British nurseries ; the 
castor-oil plant, that bears such big clumps of 
flowers blooming under a tropical sun " too fairly 
for so foul effect " ; the precious quinine, which 
by bold adventurers was stolen from Peruvian 
monopoly to thrive on Indian hills and elsewhere. 
Passing by such exhibits with a shudder, Masters 
Sandford and Merton will be glad to learn how 
many doctors nowadays do not much dissent 
from O. W. Holmes's dictum that if all drugs, 
except quinine and a few other specifics, were at 
the bottom of the sea, it would be so much the 
better for human health. 

Young monkeys, still strong in jaw and 
gastric juice, will pay more attention to the 
different kinds of nuts, too reckless dealings with 
which has often caused nauseous draughts to be 
" exhibited " ; and they may be surprised to 
learn how the triangular Brazil nuts of our shops 
are not independent growths, but neatly packed 
in parcels of two dozen or so in a shell like a 
cannon ball, so hard and heavy as to crack a 
man's skull on which it should fall. The youth 
of this generation will not be so much interested 
as an old fogey is in carob pods, believed to be 



194 KEW GARDENS 

the locusts that fed St. John, and that still feed 
men and cattle in some parts of the world. The 
other day I had a shock of mild surprise in seeing 
dried locusts for sale in a back street shop- 
window, from which I had supposed them long 
vanished ; but in my period of unpampered 
stomachs and scrimp pocket-money they had a 
great sale among schoolboys, as giving for a 
minimum of expenditure a maximum of sweet, 
stiff chewing, with this additional recommenda- 
tion, that the seeds, scrunched under one's mis- 
chievous heel, made a squeaking noise subversive 
of discipline a trick, let us trust, never tried on 
Mr. Barlow. He will here find a cue to explain 
how some fruits that are to us mere luxuries 
more or less digestible, such as chestnuts and 
dates, make the staple food of certain regions, 
not only raw but dried, ground into flour and 
baked into bread ; the stones of dates also being 
crushed as fodder for North African cattle. 
Then here we have the cassava, which in its 
native state is deadly poison, but can be prepared 
to feed wholesomely many tribes of Africans 
and South Americans, and to supply us with our 
toothsome tapioca. Here indeed are poisonous 
preparations enough to kill all Kew, including 



VISITING THE GARDENS 195 

the juice of that upas tree of whose deadly 
shade a cock-and-bull story took such deep 
root in our language that it still affords a 
fictitious trope for orators. 

Mr. Barlow might find much to say on the 
many useful or curious plants here represented, 
notably the various trees and creepers whose 
juice, once oozing to waste in leafy wildernesses, 
now becomes more and more important through 
the increasing demand for india-rubber in our 
greedy manufactures. But his hearers might 
begin to yawn before he had got through one- 
tenth of over a hundred cases here laid out for 
inspection ; so, as soon as the shower be over 
that has driven us into this instructive refuge, 
let us go forth into the open air, only pausing 
to look respectfully on the portraits of botanists 
and explorers, among which the tutor may 
point to Sir Joseph Banks, or Baron von 
Humboldt, while the pupils will want rather 
to identify Captain Cook ; the general public 
may be most concerned to see Charles Darwin 
or Marianne North ; and those who have had 
the patience to read through the foregoing 
chapters can pick out George III., Lord Bute, 
the Aitons, the Hookers, and other worthies 



196 KEW GARDENS 

there touched upon in connection with Kew's 
history. 

It would take one, indeed, from opening to 
closing time to go through even the salient 
features of these spacious Gardens. What one 
turns to by choice will partly depend on taste, 
and partly on the season. Early in the year, as 
the official guide reminds us, we can look out 
for the snowdrops, crocuses and daffodils that 
" take the winds of March with beauty." Then 
open the tulips about the Palm House, the blue- 
bells in the remote corner marked by the Queen's 
Cottage, the wild hyacinths beneath the budding 
beech -trees ; and horse-chestnut flowers strew 
the way to the blooming rhododendron walks ; 
and next comes the turn of the azaleas and roses, 
till the whole area is overspread by vari-coloured 
blooms, in autumn dying with a pale sunset of 
chrysanthemums. 

There are some who seek out first the richest 
flower-beds; others who love the chequered 
shade of melodious groves, or the avenues of 
cedar, larch, and cypress at the less cleared end 
towards Richmond ; others will ask for famous 
old trees like that horse-chestnut whose gouty 
limbs are railed in near the river bank, a little 



VISITING THE GARDENS 197 

below the Syon Vista opening across the ferry 
from the Palm House, beside the artificial lake 
that might be mistaken for a river. Open-eyed 
youngsters hang by the pond with its colony of 
wild-fowl, on the other side of the Palm House. 
Family parties stroll through the chambers of the 
" Palace," empty but for a sprinkling of pictures 
and relics of royalty. Certain visitors, on hot 
days, one observes to spend much time in and 
about the refreshment pavilion, towards which 
Tommy Merton's eyes will be observed to 
wander, while Harry Sandford listens attentively 
to a lecture on the adjacent cedars, whose 
seeds may have been brought home by Bute's 
adventurous mother-in-law, and their branches 
to-day wear no air of "sighing for Lebanon." 
The official restaurant, not quite so "popular" 
as those outside, stands beyond the Palm House, 
in an open glade leading up to where the 
Pagoda's towering intrusiveness marks the way 
to the Lion Gate at the further corner on 
the Richmond road. Perhaps fewest visitors 
show the preference of Richard Jefferies, so 
true a lover of Nature, who casts his vote 
for what might strike some of us as the most 
commonplace show of the Gardens, by the 



198 KEW GARDENS 

Cumberland Gate that old story of "Eyes 
and no Eyes ! " 

Within this enclosure, called the Herbaceous Ground, 
heedlessly passed and perhaps never heard of by the 
thousands who go to see the Palm Houses, lies to me the 
real and truest interest of Kew. For here is a living 
dictionary of English wild-flowers. The meadow and the 
cornfield, the river, the mountain, and the woodland, the 
seashore, the very waste place by the roadside, each has 
sent its peculiar representatives, and glancing for the 
moment, at large, over the beds, noting their number and 
extent, remembering that the specimens are not in the 
mass but individual, the first conclusion is that our own 
country is the true Flowery Land. But the immediate 
value of this wonderful garden is in the clue it gives to 
the most ignorant, enabling any one, no matter how un- 
learned, to identify the flower that delighted him or her, 
it may be, years ago in far-away field or copse. Walking 
up and down the green paths between the beds, you are 
sure to come upon it presently, with its scientific name 
duly attached and its natural order labelled at the end 
of the patch. Had I only known of this place in former 
days, how gladly I would have walked the hundred miles 
hither. For the old folk, the aged men and country- 
women, have for the most part forgotten, if they ever 
knew, the plants and herbs in the hedges they had 
frequented from their childhood. Some few, of course, 
they can tell you ; but the majority are as unknown to 
them, except by sight, as the ferns of New Zealand or the 
heaths of the Cape. Since books came about, since the 
railways and science destroyed superstition, the lore of 
herbs has in great measure decayed and been lost. The 
names of many of the commonest herbs are quite forgotten 



VISITING THE GARDENS 199 

they are weeds, and nothing more. But here these 
things are preserved ; in London, the centre of civilisation 
and science, is a garden which restores the ancient know- 
ledge of the monks and the witches of the villages. 

But whatever else at Kew be done or left 
undone, the stranger must be pointed to what 
is almost the latest and not least attractive of 
its spectacles the North Gallery, that stands on 
the Richmond road side, beyond the mound on 
which a Douglas pine rears what boasts itself 
the tallest flagstaff in the world, and near where 
the walk is crossed by an imitation ruined arch, 
overgrown with greenery, which in Sir W. 
Chambers's time seemed an ornamental manner 
of carrying a roadway out of the grounds. The 
pretty building itself will at once invite atten- 
tion ; then hours may be spent in examining 
its contents, the gift and handiwork of Miss 
Marianne North, who well deserved to stand 
godmother to several plants brought to know- 
ledge by her researches. 

This lover of flowers, a descendant from the 
Roger North remembered by his biography of 
three notable brothers, was born at Hastings, 
for which her father sat in Parliament. Her 
desire to see and to paint the tropics was 



200 KEW GARDENS 

awakened at Kew when Sir William Hooker 
gave her a glorious bunch from the first Amherstia 
nobilis to bloom in England. With her father 
she travelled much in Europe, and as far as 
Syria and Egypt. Thrown on her own guidance 
after his death and the marriage of her sister to 
J. A. Symonds, she launched out for America 
and the West Indies ; then took a tour round 
the world and made some stay in India, bringing 
back from time to time several hundred paintings 
to be exhibited at South Kensington. When 
she found her work appreciated, Miss North 
resolved on presenting the whole collection to 
the public, and at her own expense set about the 
building of a gallery for it at Kew. Before this 
was opened in 1882, she had been to Australasia 
for fresh subjects ; then again set off to enrich 
its contents from South Africa and the islands 
of the Indian Ocean. The gallery had soon to 
be enlarged, while its indefatigable founder made 
her last expedition, this time to Chili. The 
story of those peregrinations is told in her 
Recollections of a Happy Life, that pass over 
lightly the many hardships she braved in procur- 
ing so much pleasure for her stay-at-home 
countryfolk. But perilous climates and trying 



VISITING THE GARDENS 201 

exertions had told on her nerves ; and after a 
year spent in finally arranging the Kew collec- 
tion, she was fain to seek the repose of a 
Gloucestershire garden, which many friends 
contributed to adorn with such beauties as she 
had followed far and near. Here, a few years 
later, she died in 1890. 

The North collection is unique, not only in its 
scope and interest, but in its being the work of 
one woman, whom Queen Victoria regretted 
that she could distinguish by no mark of public 
honour : in the next reign she might have been 
rewarded by the new Order of Merit bestowed 
on Florence Nightingale. Her legacy to the 
nation, catalogued in more than a hundred pages, 
pictures some thousand species of flowers and 
plants, from nearly all parts of the world, for 
the most part executed on the spot within little 
over a dozen years. This is the sight no visitor 
should miss ; and from whatever clime he comes, 
he is almost sure to find some souvenir of it 
blooming here under the dullest sky and the 
chilliest influences, against which Kew Gardens 
strive to carry out their aim of epitomising the 
earth's vegetable life. 



INDEX 



Abel, musician, 125 

Acorns exported from Kew, 185 

Addison, quoted, 90 

JEolus, Temple of, 169 

Aiton, John, 102 

Aiton, William, 100 

Aiton, William Townsend, 102 

Albert, Prince, 110 

Amelia, Princess, 64, 79 

Amelia's House, Princess, 30 

Arch, the ruined, 199 

Argyll, Duke of, 9 

Aroid House, 170 

Assassination, George III.'s 

escape from, 36 
Augusta, Princess of Saxe-Gotha, 

13 

Australian vegetation, 182 
Ayrton, Mr., 109 
Azaleas, 196 

Bach, J. C., 40, 125 

Bacon's Essay, Of Gardens, 85 

Bamboos, 186 

Bauer, Francis, 146 

Birch, uses of, 187 

Bluebells, 196 

Bohemia, Anne of, 2 

Boswell, 70 

Botanic Garden at Kew, 95, 101, 

107, 112 
Botanists, portraits of explorers 

and, 195 

Bradley, Astronomer-Royal, 87 
Brazil nuts, 193 



Brentford, 8, 77, 113, 119, 132 
Bridgeman, gardener, 91 
Brown, "Capability," 95 
Buckingham Palace, 27, 32, 78 
Buitenzorg Gardens, Java, 161 
Burney, Miss, quoted, 46, 59, 

66,67 

Burton, Decimus, 108 
Bushey Park, 149 
Bute, Earl of, 19, 23, 95, 123 
" Buttonmaker," nickname of 

George III., 31 
Byam, Rev. R. B., 145 

Cactus aloe, 169 

Cambridge Cottage, 46, 123, 163, 

156 
Cambridge, Duke Adolphus of, 

45, 81, 116, 153 

Cambridge, Duke George of, 154 
Cambridge, Princess Mary of, 

155 

Capel, Lord, 11, 87 
Carleton House, 77 
Carob pods, 193 
Caroline, Queen, 9, 10, 94, 116 
Cassava, 194 

Castor-oil plant, the, 193 
Cedars of Lebanon, 197 
Chambers, Sir William, 96 
Character of George III., 22 
Charles I., 7 

Charlotte, Princess, 80, 81 
Charlotte, Queen, 24, 47, 52 

68,80 



203 



204 



KEW GARDENS 



Chatterton, quoted, 98 
Chelsea, Physic Garden of, 101 
Chestnuts, 194 
Chrysanthemums, 196 
Church House, 123 
City State Barge, 143 
Clarence, Duke of, 45, 70, 81 
Cobbett, William, 136 
Coca leaves, 192 
Coco-nut of Seychelles, 166 
Coco-nut trees, uses of, 188 
Colton, Charles Caleb, 143 
Confucius, House of, 96 
Cook's Voyages, 105 
Copernicia ceriferu, a tree-of-all- 

work, 189 

Cotton window, the, 191 
Cowley, quoted, 84 
Crocuses, 196 
Cuba jungles, 171 
Cumberland, Ernest, Duke of, 

45, 81, 116, 150, 151 
Cumberland, William of, 12, 18 

Daffodils, 196 

" Dairy House," the, 11 

D'Arblay, General, 71 

Darwin, Erasmus, quoted, 98 

Darwins, the, 102 

Dates, 194 

Deans, Jeanie, 9 

De Candolles, the, 102 

De Jussieus, the, 102 

Diary, George Rose's, 74 

Dictionary of National Biography, 
quoted, 75 

Digby, Colonel, 67 

Dissertation on Oriental Garden- 
ing, 96 

Diversion* of Parley, the, 134 

Doddington, Bubb, 20 

Dowager Princess of Wales, 20, 
95 

Dragon-tree at Orotava, 180 

"Drake, Peter," 95 

Drawing-rooms at St. James's, 60 

Duck, Misses, 116 



Duck, Stephen, 94, 116, 117 
Dutch House, the, 11, 29, 74 

Edinburgh Botanical Garden, 

103 

Edward III., 2 
Elizabeth, Queen, 5 
"Elizabeth's house, Princess," 

46 

Engleharts, the, 126 
Ernest, King of Hanover, 107 

150, 151 

Ernst, the page, 126 
Eucalyptus, 181 
Evelyn, John, 86 
Explorers, portraits of botanists 

and, 195 

" Farmer George," 31 
Finch, Lady Charlotte, 46 
Fischer, musician, 40, 125 
Fitzherbert, Mrs., 45 
Fortnum, 125 
Frederick, Duke of York, .37, 

43,46 
Frederick, Prince of Wales, 11, 

15,88 

Gainsborough, Thomas, 129 

Gardening, art of, 88 

Gardens, celebrated, 87, 88 

GARDENS, THE STORY OF THE, 82 

Garrick, quoted, 96 

George, Duke of Cambridge, 
154 

" George, Farmer," 31 

George I., 8 

George II., 8, 10, 24 

George III., 13, 74, 76, 78, 1)5, 
120 

George III., accession of, 24 

George Ill.'s character, 22 

George III.'s escape from assas- 
sination, 36 

George III.'s illness, 51 

George III. meets Miss Burney, 
47 



INDEX 



205 



George III.'s tutors, 17 

George IV., 77, 106 

George IV., Prince of Wales, 37, 

40, 53, 55 
George IV.'s intrigue with " Per- 

dita" Robinson, 41 
Giant gum trees at Melbourne, 

164 

Gordon, General, 166 
Great Palm House, 165 
Green, the gardener, 99 
Greenhouse, the, 170 
Greville, Charles, quoted, 150 
Grey, Lady Jane, 4 
Gwyn, Mrs., the "Jessamy 

Bride," 145 

Ha-ha fence, 93 
Ham House, 87, ] 14 
Hampton Court, 3, 8, 10 
Hanover, Ernest, King of, 107 
Hanover, George of, 152 
Haverfield, John, 99 
Hawkins, the brothers, 123 
Helps, Sir Arthur, 147 
Hemp plants, 192 
Henry, Prince, 6 
Herbaceous ground, 169, 198 
Herbarium library, 152 
Heroic Epistle, Mason's, 95 
Hervey, Lord, quoted, 12, 14 
Highwaymen, 121 
Hill, Sir John, 96 
Hofland, Barbara, 146 
Hollow Walk, the, 123 
"Honour, Maids of," 8 
Hooker, Sir J. D., 109, 181 
Hooker, Sir W. J., 108, 109 
Home Tooke, John, 132 
Horse-chestnut, old, 196 
Horticultural Society's Garden, 

107 

Huntingdon, William, S.S., 138 
Hurlbut, W. H., quoted, 171 

" Improvers," 88 
India-rubber plants, 195 



Islay, Lord, 97 
Italian Gardens, 



Jacobi, Mdlle., 69, 72 

James I., 5 

Jeiferies, Richard, quoted, 198 

Jones, Henry, 98 

Jones, Inigo, 88 

Juniper Hill, 71 

" Junius," 134 

Kava root, 192 

Kent, Duke of, 45, 81 

Kent, William, 88 

Kew Bridge, 118 

Kew Castle, 77 

Kew Church, 115 

Kew Churchyard, 129 

Kew Cottage, 147 

Kew Green, 75, 157 

Kew House, 10, 29, 32, 46, 51, 

54, 64, 76 
KEW IN FAVOUR, 31 
" Kew in lilac-time," 158 
Kew Observatory, 9, 88, 97, 111 
Kew, origin of name, 1 
Kew Palace, 10, 78, 80, 112, 197 
Kew Priory, 143 
Kew Volunteers, 149 
Kingston, 2 
Kirby, Joshua, 129 
Kit-Cat Club, 114 
Kneller, Sir Godfrey, 114 
Kneller Hall, 114 
Knight, Charles, 79 
Knight, Miss Cornelia, 73 

Lacon, quoted, 144 
Lake, the, 197 
Langley, Batty, 91 
Lauderdale, Duke of, at Ham 

House, 87 

Lebanon, cedars of, 197 
Lely, Sir Peter, 113 
Lennox, Lady Sarah, 26 
Le Notre, 89 
Levens Hall, 89 



206 



KEW GARDENS 



Linnean classification, the, 190 
Linnes, the, 102 
Lion Gate, the, 197 
Liquorice root, 192 
Little, John, story of, 141 
" Love Lane," 33 

Macaulay, quoted, 47 
Macnab, James, 103 
Macnab, William, 102 
Macnab, William Ramsay, 103 
' ' Maids of Honour," 8 
Mammoth sequoia, 181 
Marvell, A., quoted, 93 
Mary of Cambridge, Princess, 

156 

Mason's Heroic Epistle, 95 
Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Dowager 

Grand-Duchess of, 155 
Melbourne, giant gum-trees at, 

164 

" Merlin's Cave," 94 
Meyer, Jeremiah, 126 
Molyneux, Samuel, 11, 87 
Monastery of Sheen, the, 83 
Montague, Lady Mary Wortley, 

123 

Moor Park, Hertfordshire, 85 
Murray, Miss Amelia, quoted, 

124 
Museums and Economic Houses, 

185 

New Zealand Vegetation, 183 

Niepce, J. N. de, 146 

"No Popery" riots, 34 

North Gallery, 199 

North, Miss Marianne, 161, 163, 

199 

Notre, Le, 89 
Noyes, Mr. A., quoted, 168 

Observatory, the, 9, 88, 97, 

111 

Old Brentford, 132 
Old Deer Park, 36, 111, 141 
Opium, 192 



" Orangery," the, 190 
Orotava, dragon-tree at, 180 

Pagoda, the, 1, 96, 197 

Palace at Richmond, proposed 

new, 28 

Palm House, 108 
Papendiek, Mrs., Memoirs of, 

34, 40, 43, 56, 72, 99, 120, 

121, 123, 125 
Papyrus reeds, 167 
Pavilion, the Brighton, 77 
Peradenia, Gardens of, 164 
Petersham, 114 
Phillips's Morning's walk from 

London to Kew, 142 
Physic Garden, Chelsea, 101 
Pond, the, 197 
Pope, quoted, 15, 89 
Portraits of botanists and ex- 
plorers, 195 
Potato, the, 185 
Prain, Colonel, 109 
Prince Albert, 110 
Prince Frederick of Wales, 11, 

15,88 

Prince George of Hanover, 152 
Prince Henry, 6 
Princess Amelia, 30, 64, 79 
Princess Charlotte, 80, 81 
" Princess Elizabeth's House," 

46 

Princess Marie's wedding, 155 
Princess Victoria, 81 
Pringle, Sir John, 123 
Proctor, Richard, 147 

Queen Caroline, 9, 10, 116 

Queen Charlotte, 27, 68, 80 

Queen Elizabeth, 5 

Queen Victoria, 112, 149 

" Queen's Cottage," the, 29, 196 

"Queen's Lodge" at Windsor, 32 

Quinine, 193 

Rafflesia, 162 

Recollections of a Happy Life, 200 



INDEX 



207 



Regency Bill, 53, 62 
Regency, the Prince's, 79 
Repton, Humphrey, 93 
Richmond, 3, 5, 113, 140 
Richmond Gardens, 94, 110 
Richmond Lodge, 8, 10, 28, 32, 

97, 110 

Richmond Palace, 3 
Richmond Park, 7, 30 
Richmond, proposal of new 

palace at, 28 
Rio de Janeiro, Botanic Garden, 

near, 164 

Riots, " No Popery," 34 
Robinson, " Perdita," 41 
Rock Garden, the, 168 
Rogers, John, Reminiscences, 

34, 101 

Rose, George, Diary of, 74 
Roses, 196 

St. James's Drawing-rooms, 50 
St. James's Palace, 27 
Saxe-Gotha, Princess Augusta 

of, 13 

Scholarship, George IV.'s, 37 
Schwellenberg, Mrs., 49, 68 
Scotsmen as gardeners, 100, 105 
Senna, 192 

Seychelles, coco-nut of, 166 
Sharp, Granville, 122 
Sheen, 2 

Sheen Common, 94 
Sheen, the Monastery of, 83 
Snowdrops, 196 
Somerset, Protector, 84 
South African plants, 168 
Spectator, the, quoted, 90 
Spencer, Lady Elizabeth, 27 
STORY OF THK GARDENS, THE, 82 
Strand-on-the-Green, 113, 126 
Strawberry Hill, 90, 91 
Succulent House, 169 
Sudbrook Park, 114 
Suffolk House, 4 
Sun, Temple of the, 169 
Sunday opening, 110 



Sussex, Duke of, 45 
Swift, quoted, 114 
Switzer, Stephen, 87, 91 
Sydney, Botanic Gardens at, 164 
Syon House, 4, 84 
Syon Vista, the, 197 

Tamerlane's garden, 100 
Teck, Duke of, 155 
Temple, Sir William, 87 
Temple of .Solus, 169 
Temple of the Sun, 169 
Temple Grove, 87 
Thackeray, quoted, 34 
Theobald's Park, Enfield, 5 
Thiselton-Dyer, Sir W. T., 109 
Thomson, James, 140 
" Thresher-poet," the, 116 
Thresher's Labour. The, quoted 

117 

Thurlow, Lord Chancellor, 62 
Timber Museum, No. HI., 190 
Tooke, John Home, 132 
Topiarian art, the, 89 
Trimmer, Mrs., 129 
Tropical Lily House, 166 
Tropics, plagues of the, 176 
Tulips, 196 

Turner, Dr. William, 83 
Tutors of George III., 17 
Twickenham, 21 
" Two Kings of Brentford," the, 

132 

Upas tree, 195 

Victoria Gate, 112 
Victoria, Princess, 81 
Victoria, Queen, 112, 149 
Victoria Regia, the, 162, 167 
VISITING THE GARDENS, 157 

Wales, Dowager Princess of, 20, 

95 
Wales, Prince Frederick of, 11, 

88 
Wallace, Dr. A. R., quoted, 174 



208 



KEW GARDENS 



Walpole, Horace, 9, 14, 15, 17, 
18, 19, 21, 28, 45, 63 

Wedding of Princess Marie, 
155 

Wells, Mr. J. W., quoted, 189 

West, Sir Algernon, quoted, 
109 

Weymouth, 65, 76 

White House, the, 46 

White Lodge, 155 

Whitton Place, 97 

Wild hyacinths, 196 

Wilkes, John, 26, 131 

Wilkes's head, 76 

" Wilkes and Liberty," 89, 133 



Wilkinson, Mr., Reminiscences, 

154 

William of Cumberland, 12, 18 
William III., 8, 89 
William IV., 87 
Willis, Rev. Dr., 56, 68 
Willises, the, 75 
Windsor Castle, 32, 50, 78 
Wolsey, 3 
Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 118 

York, Frederick, Duke of, 37, 
42,64 

Zoffany, John, 127 



THE END 



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