T S
TEXTILE WORLD RECORD
KINK BOOKS
UC-NRLF
; SB Eflb 527
Kinks on Wool
Carding and Spinning
Second Edition
Compiled from the
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS DEPARTMENT
of the
TEXTILE WORLD RECORD
PRiCE 75 CENTS
PS
CM
OO
LORD & NAGLE COMPANY
Publishers
Boston, Mass., U. S. A.
r
THE TEXTILE WORLD RECORD
KINK BOOKS
Kinks on Wool
Carding and Spinning
Second Edition
Compiled from the
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS DEPARTMENT
of the
TEXTILE WORLD RECORD
COMPILED AND EDITED BY
CLARENCE MUTTON
LORD & NAGJIjE CO.
PUBLISHERS
BOSTON, MASS., TJ. S. A.
COPYRIGHT, 1912
LORD & NAGLE COMPANY
BOSTON, MASS.
PREFACE
The success which attended the publication
of Kinks for Wool Carders and Spinners, a
large edition having been exhausted, has led
us to compile this book of practical experi-
ences in Woolen Yarn Manufacturing.
The editors of the TEXTILE WORLD RECORD
are at all times face to face with the problem
of securing practical information. For years
its subscribers have been invited to make free
use of its columns in asking questions relating
to woolen manufacturing, and it occurred to
us that if some of the most important and
most interesting of the practical questions that
have been answered were gathered together in
a handy form for quick reference, it would
meet a wide-spread want.
This book contains information which has
been supplied by manufacturers, superintend-
ents, and overseers from their private record
books and their stores of knowledge gained by
experience.
Many questions are answered and much
information given, but subscribers should
remember that if there is any information
they desire which is not given in this volume,
271655
8 PREFACE
it is their privilege to ask the Questions and
Answers Department of the TEXTILE WORLD
RECORD, and every effort will be made to pub-
lish the information for them provided the
question is one of general interest to the trade.
No effort has been made to arrange the
subjects in the order of precedence in manu-
facturing, but the book is fully indexed, which
should enable anyone to find the information
he seeks in the shortest possible time.
Grateful acknowledgment is due to the men
who have supplied the information, and if
Kinks on Wool Carding and Spinning should
benefit any of the large number of men for
whom it is intended, both they and the pub-
lishers will feel that its mission has been
accomplished.
TEXTILE WORLD RECORD,
LORD & NAGLE COMPANY,
Publishers.
Kinks on Wool Carding
and Spinning
Trouble in Carding Shoddy
In a shoddy mill using 60-inch cylinders, 3"
in a set, running 100 revolutions, we have
much trouble with uncarded threads and short
staple. What is the best size of wire for the
cylinders, doffers and workers for this class of
work? Is a slow, thick feed better carding
than a fast, thin feed, where the production
remains the same? Carder (1160).
Shoddy should be laid down in the picker
room and properly oiled for at least twelve-
hours and if possible twenty-four hours. It
would pick and card better as the rags are
then soft and pliable. The teeth in the picker
should be sharp. The number of teeth de-
pends on the grade of stock and the staple-
wanted. It is important to set the feed rolls;
properly to the cylinder and wrap them with-
a damp strip of cloth as tight as possible to-
fill up the distance from the center of the feed
roll to the teeth of the cylinder. If the feed
roll is properly set good results should be ob-
tained. One hundred revolutions on 60-inch<.
cylinders is too fast. It does not give time to
10 KINKS ON WOOL
card properly and only shortens the staple
and makes a lot of waste. I would advise run-
ning 80 revolutions; even 75 would not be too
slow, and the card clothing- will last longer. I
would prefer a medium heavy feed running
the feed rolls slow, rather than a thin feed
and running them fast. I would advise 32
wire on the first cylinder, 33 on the second arid
34 on the last. Set the first with a 30 gauge,
second with a 32 gauge, and third with a 34
gauge. If the cards are in good condition and
properly set there is no reason why good re-
;sults should not be obtained. All this can be
spoiled by trying to do too much in a given
time. It is better to do less and have the work
right than to get off a large production and
have it spoiled. Rogers.
Matching Mixtures
How can I determine the proportions of
each color in the enclosed samples of black
and white mixed cloth? Mixture (440).
The best way to match textile mixtures of
different colors is to make a small sample,
weighing the stock on a grain scale, and card-
ing and mixing the different colors on a hand
card. One hundred grains is a convenient
weight, as each grain is equivalent to 1 per
cent. After it has been carded the stock is
washed in neutral soap, dried and compared
CARDING AND SPINNING II
with the sample to be matched. Repeated
tests are made until the right proportions are
obtained. If facilities are at hand, it is a good
plan to verify the hand-card sample by mak-
ing a larger one of, say two pounds, carding it
on the breaker card. A small card for this
purpose is built and it is a very useful ma-
chine in a mill making mixed goods.
Twisted Rolls in Carding
I send you with this letter samples of
twisted rolls or nubs which form on our cards
in carding English wool graded as 46s. These
rolls form between the fancy and the doffer.
I can lie on the floor and see them drop under
the card after having been drawn down by the
cylinder. I changed the speed of the tumbler
thinking that it held the stock too long, but
there was no improvement. The card is 48 by
48 with 34 wire on the cylinders. The fancy
is 9 inches in diameter clothed with 28 wire,
open set. I have tried setting the workers
close and away off, but without helping mat-
ters any. The difficulty is encountered only
with this 46s grade of wool. It occurred to me
that the rolls might be caused by the wool
being gummy. I would like very much to have
you tell me what will remedy the trouble.
Carder (1163).
These rolls are made by the fancy which has
too coarse a wire for the cylinder. The fancy
wire should be at the most only two numbers
coarser than the cylinder wire. In most cases
the same wire is used. The stock like sample
12 KINKS ON WOOL
requires but little work from the fancy, it lies-
on the points of the cylinder wire, and in this
position it is in the right place to be rolled by
the fancy. A 28 wire fancy running on a 34
wire cylinder would be about right for rolling
the stock. Sometimes a coarse fancy will
throw bits of stock on the doffer where the
draft of the fancy will keep it rolling until it
goes back in the card or drops on the floor. A
fancy stripper can be used to good advantage
on some kinds of stock to prevent rolling.
Lytton.
It would be very easy to locate the trouble
il I had an opportunity of examining the work
on the card, but it is difficult to point out the
remedy at a distance and with only such par-
ticulars as "Carder" gives. The stock is long^
and hard to raise and card out. There is a
natural tendency for it to roll. To do good
work the card must be in Al condition, with
all belts tight, especially the lickerin and
fancy belts. The cards should be set fairly
close, especially the doffer and fancy. The
speed of the fancy must be just right to raise
and clear the cylinder, otherwise it will load
and cause rolls. It might be a good plan ta
reverse the workers. This will card the stock
out better, but it will be harder on the staple
and on the wire. I think most of the trouble
CARDING AND SPINNING 13
is due to the setting and speed of the fancy.
The fancy belt should be tight and the cloth-
ing- kept sharp. More work is spoiled on the
card by the fancy than at any other point.
.Rogers.
Equipment and Operation of Carbonizing
Plant
We have been in the habit of using wool
more or less burry as we have no means of
getting rid of the burrs before sending the
stock to the cards, the wool being put to the
cards with the burrs in and the result is that
the card clothing is in bad shape. I have been
considering introducing a burr picker, but am
in doubt whether it would do the work as well
as carbonizing. For that reason I would like
to see some good articles on carbonizing, giv-
ing full instructions as to how it could and
should be done and the probable cost and
equipment for a carbonizing plant, that would
handle about 500 pounds of wool a day.
Buxton (1244).
Carbonizing is by far the most satisfactory
method of removing burrs from wool, unless
the burrs are very large or are what is known
us "hard" burrs. These may be all knocked
out of the wool by burr picking which will
leave the stock in better condition than by the
carbonizing process, as the latter has a tend-
ency to weaken the wool. To carbonize the
14 KINKS ON WOOL
wool for hard burrs the vat should be filled
with cold water and enough sulphuric acid
added to bring the bath up to about 6 Tw.
After the bath is brought up to the required
strength the scoured wool is entered and al-
lowed to soak for about three hours and then
forked out, drained and thoroughly extracted.
The wool may be put into the acid bath either
wet or dry, but in putting in the dry stock
more liquor is absorbed and consequently when
it is taken out more water has to be added,
which weakens the bath, and, of course, more
acid is required to bring it back to its former
strength. This is an essential point as the
bath should not be allowed to run down if the
stock is to be carbonized thoroughly.
The next step in carbonizing is the drying
and baking process, which can be done either
on the old fashioned table dryers or in the
Stone dryer manufactured by the James
Hunter Machine Co., or the Sargent carboniz-
ing plant. If the table dryer is used a set of
heavy crush rollers and a cone duster would
have to be installed in order to crush the
burrs and free the wool from the dust and
pieces of burrs which cling to the stock.
If the table or drawer dryer, Pig. 1, is used,
the stock must be spread out evenly and not
too thick on these drawers, and the fan
should be started, the sliding door in the air
CARDING AND SPINNING
l6 KINKS ON WOOL
shaft closed, and the sliding door in the out-
side of the building opened. In this way the
stock should be dried considerably as the cold,
damp air is driven outside. The fan should
toe left running about two hours, the steam
then turned on, the outside sliding door closed
and the sliding door in the air shaft opened.
There should be enough piping in the coil so
that the drying room can be heated to a tem-
perature of at least 220 F. The fan if kept
running all this time will give a good circula-
tion. The wool should be turned over once in
a while so that it will dry thoroughly, and
should not be taken off the dryer until the
burrs are well baked, when they will turn
black and can be crumbled up between thumb
and finger. The stock should then be passed
through heavy crush rollers and a cone duster,
and then neutralized. In neutralizing the
stock enough alkali and soap should be used
to remove the acid, or to have the stock smell
sweet. If too much alkali is used it turns the
stock yellow and makes it harsh. In building
the table or drawer dryer as many drawers
can be put in as are required. One dry room
with about 5 drawers, 3 by 3 feet square,
makes a pretty fair room to heat, and, of
course, the fan should be in proportion to the
size of the room built. Tambura.
CARDING AND SPINNING I?
Calculating Weight of Sliver
The first breaker of a set of woolen cards is
fitted wih a Bramwell feed, the second breaker
with a Torrance creel, and the third breaker
or finisher card with an Apperly feed or a
creel. What is the method of calculating the
weight of ends or sliver that should enter
these feeds in order to give a 6-run roving?
Milton (867).
No set rule can be given for calculating the
size of the drawing for a given size of roving.
The carder must use his own judgment, taking
care not to have it too heavy or there will be
difficulty in passing it through the guides on
the second breaker. If the drawing is too
heavy on the feed table of the Apperly feed
the roving is apt to be lumpy; the finer the
drawing and the more of it on the feed table
the better the roving. With a creel on the
second breaker and an Apperly feed on the
finisher the size of the roving is regulated by
an adjustment of the gears. Sam Driver.
Carding Cotton Mixes
I am having trouble carding cotton mixes.
The cotton is fairly well matted; the picker
does not do very good work and neppy yarn is
the result. We have an old wooden frame
card, and lately when we moved from one
floor to another the card was so racked and
worn that we could not set it close enough to
take out the neps. What would be the best
method of setting, and to what size gauge? It
is set to 29 now. Where is the setting most
l8 KINKS ON WOOL
liable to help, and will the fancy help or cause
the neps? We are now making 1 1/2-run
yarn; about 1 1/2 draft on the spinning ma-
chine or about 48 inches of roving. The stock
contains from 20 to 50 per cent, cotton. The
ring doffers make about 14 turns a minute.
Clinton (774).
If the card is in such shape as Clinton says
it is, the best thing to do is to open the win-
dow and throw it out. If the mixing picker is
not doing good work, have the machine fixed
so that it will. The mixing picker has nothing
to do with making neps. Run the cotton and
the stock that is mixed with it separately
through the picker before mixing. I never set
a card closer than 2 9 -gauge on any kind of
stock. If Clinton can set the stock with a
2 9 -gauge without having it strike, the card is
all right and the fault must be somewhere
else, probably in the fancy. Set the fancy so
you can just hear it on each side; then set
both sides firmly into the cylinder. See that
the stripper belt is tight; run the first breaker
doffer faster so as to get the stock out of the
card quicker. Speed the ring doffers up to 18
or 20 turns and the condenser accordingly.
The roving is apparently about right.
Sam Driver.
Even and Uneven Roving
I am boss spinner in a woolen mill. About
two weeks ago the weavers complained about
CARDING AND SPINNING IQ
lumps in the filling which broke in the eye of
the shuttle. The mules are set just the same
as they always were. Can you tell me where
the trouble is? Grant (994).
Since carding and spinning go hand in hand
in woolen manufacturing, it is first necessary
to refer briefly to carding. As a rule the
carder calculates his roving to be drawn down
to about one-half, on the mule, in order to
assist in drawing out and reducing any lumps
or other irregularities in the roving in the final
yarn produced. There will be no trouble in
drawing out a good even roving made from
long, even-stapled wools, this one-half or more
in spinning; however, the best spinner will
find it impossible to draw out uneven roving
or such as made -from short staple stock more
than one-third, without keeping the mule
standing most of the time piecing up broken
ends.
With reference to uneven roving delivered
to the spinning room, the lumpy sorts will be
the ones making the most trouble, in fact if
not impossible for a fine thread to be spun out
of it, since it is a well-known law in spinning
that the lumps will take the twist only after
the thin places between the lumps are twisted
extra hard. This naturally tends to increase
in proportion the size of the lumps, and in
turn reduce the thinner places still more.
In order to explain this subject, the accom-
20
KINKS ON WOOL
panying two illustrations are given. Fig. 1
represents an uneven, lumpy, unspun roving or
carded wool. Examining the illustration, we
will find that instead of having an even sur-
face, the roving is lumpy, caused either pos-
;sibly on account of dull card wires, or insuffi-
cient carding, or improperly prepared stock,
etc. Such roving may now and then occur in
any mill, but it should be seldom the case, and
if found, the trouble at once remedied by
proper attention to the set of cards where it
was made.
In drawing out this roving on the mule, the
same receives a few turns per inch as the car-
riage backs off. The drafting occurs at this
point, and since the tendency is for the twist
to take effect between the lumps, as previously
mentioned, it follows that the lumps are more
or less untouched w T ith reference to twists by
the mule, remaining soft and pliable, and
being drawn out only slightly in size. The
thinner places between the lumps have taken
all the twist which actually ought to have
CARDING AND SPINNING 21
gone in the full length of the thread under
operation, said fine hard twisted portions of
the yarn not drawing down any to speak of.
For this reason the mule does little toward
correcting such imperfect roving, resulting in
an uneven yarn as readily seen by means or
examining diagram Fig. 2, where we see that
the bunches, as mentioned before, although
slightly drawn out as to size, are yet distinct
in the thread, the thinner portions of the
thread having taken all the twist, clearly
showing too much of it. The reason for this
is found in the fact that the larger in circum-
ference a body, the harder it is to revolve it,
and since the lumps in the roving are of a
larger diameter as compared to the thinner
portions of the thread, it consequently follows
that said lumpy portions of the thread acquire
little, if any, twist compared to the thinner
portions; in fact all the thinner portions in
the full stretch of roving under operation
must be twisted solidly into a wire, as we
might say, before twist is put in the larger
places, i. e., the bunches, each bunch acting as
a pin of a fixed lever for the length of the
thin roving adjoining.
The proper amount of the draft to be put in
the yarn at the mule, requires good judgment,
the rule usually observed being that the longer
and coarser the stock, the quicker the drawing
22 KINKS ON WOOL
should be. If the roving pulls out from be-
tween the draft rollers during drawing, it is a
sure sign that the draft is too slow, and for
M hich reason put on a larger draft gear (back-
ing off gear), or let out on the upper steady
rope and take up at the bottom. If the rov-
ing snaps off about half way between the draft
roll and the tops of the spindle during draw-
ing, it is an indication that the carriage is
backing off too quickly, the twist not having
a chance to take hold, and in which instance
reverse the previously given advice.
Conrad.
Vigogne Yarn
I am informed that the enclosed sample of
vigogne yarn, or in fact any vigogne yarn, is
not made in this country. Can you tell me
where it is manufactured?
Manufacturer (1199).
The sample enclosed was a cotton and wool
mixed yarn. Our French correspondent in
replying to this inquiry gives the following
account of the genuine vigogne fiber and the
fabrics made from it:
Of all the special wools obtained from South
America such as lama, guanaco, alpaca, vi-
gogne, etc., it is the last named which excels
all the others. The vigogne hair is used in the
manufacture of shawls, fishing nets and
cloaks. The different shades of vigogne hair
CARDING AND SPINNING 23
are first separated. The inhabitants of the
countries where vigogne hair is grown produce
a very solid fabric from it which compares
favorably with the best grades of wool goods.
It is completely waterproof and at the same
time fine and light. The best vigogne fabrics
come from Catamarca in the Argentine Re-
public. Since 1890 an imitation of vigogne
has been made. This consists in mixing wool
and cotton in variable proportions. In many
cases the wool is replaced by the hair of the
angora rabbit and sometimes of the ordinary
rabbit. I will try to send you a few samples
of vigogne fabrics in a few days. Gaul.
Changing to Coarse Stock
We have changed our cards over to a coarse
clothing for long coarse stock but have not
changed the fancy. Now the doffer cannot
take the stock from the cylinder and the cloth-
ing is choked up. We have tried setting the
fancy deeper into the cylinder, running it
faster, and have even bent the wire forward.
Is there anything you can suggest that will
help us out? Foster (967).
This seems to be a case of saving the old
fancy at any cost. As there is only one fancy
on a card and as the cost of reclothing it with
wire suited to the work would be small, I
would suggest that Foster get clothing a little
coarser than that on the cylinder. All the
24 KINKS ON WOOL
expedients for making the fancy do work it.
was never intended to do seem to have been
tried, so I judge a very short stock had been
previously used or the fancy was about worn
out. The range of work that a fancy will do-
is large, but there are limits and when
reached, the cost of new clothing should not
be considered against the loss caused by
makeshift devices. Burleigh.
Soap and Oil Solution
Please let me know what I can use to keep
a solution of oil, soap and water from separat-
ing. This solution is made by boiling the fol-
lowing ingredients:
14 gals, prime lard oil,
30 Ibs. olive worsted soap,
30 gals, water.
Perth (1263).
The quantities of materials indicated by our
correspondent are not properly balanced; the
quantity of soap, being only 7.9 per cent., is
too small to emulsify the 27.3 per cent, of lard
oil. As soap itself is an emulsifying com-
pound, the greater the amount used the
greater will be the result. It is suggested that
our correspondent use not less than 25 pounds
of soap in this mixture and increase the
amount of water by 10 gallons. To effect a
more thorough emulsification of the oil the
addition of a few pounds of concentrated soda
crystals is^ recommended, as it will aid materi-
CARDING AND SPINNING 25
ally. Very good results are obtained by the
use of a few quarts of any good sulphated oil,
taking the place of a corresponding weight of
soap. It is presumed that our correspondent's
mixture is intended for oiling wool, and if
such is the case he will find should he use a
mixture containing sulphated oil, that the lard
oil will not separate after boiling, and that the
scouring out of the lard oil will be more easily
effected. Berwick.
If the soap is of a good quality, it alone
should be sufficient to emulsify the oil and
water present. The designation, "olive wor-
sted soap" is, however, a rather indefinite one.
If it is an olive oil soda soap containing about
25 to 30 per cent, of water, the proportion
here given should easily carry the oil without
any separation. If, however, the soap is only
a soft soap made up with a large proportion of
water, it is probable that there is not sufficient
real soap present to properly emulsify the oil
and water. To bring about such an emulsion
that will not separate into its constituents, it
will be necessary to add a small amount of
alkali to the mixture in question. I would
suggest the use of 3 to 4 pounds of soda ash.
The latter should first be dissolved in some
water to be used by boiling, and then the solu-
tion added to that of the soap and oil, and the
:26 KINKS ON WOOL
whole mixture well boiled up together. If it
is not desirable to use soda ash on account of
any special use to which the emulsion is to be
put, a milder alkali like borax may be em-
ployed. About 4 to 5 pounds of borax should
be substituted in this case for the soda ash.
The use of borax will make the emulsion
somewhat more expensive, but its alkalinity
will be much milder. Howell.
Nubs for Knickerbockers
We are going to make a line of knickerbock-
ers and I would like to get some information
on making nubs; how to set the cards to get
good yarn. Akron (983).
To make nubs for knickerbockers select
short, fine wool and run it through the picker
dry and then through a first breaker as fol-
lows: Feed on very light; set off the workers
from the cylinder 3/16 of an inch; set the
strippers just close enough to the cylinders to
clear them; set the doffer with a 2 8 -gauge.
Do not run the comb; set the fancy just to
touch the cylinder, start the card and the nubs
will drop under the card. For nubs larger or
smaller set the cards accordingly.
These nubs are then taken to the fulling
room and fulled until quite hard, then dried
and they are ready for mixing. When the
batch is ready for the cards set off the workers
of the first breaker from 1/8 to 3/16 of an
CARDING AND SPINNING 27
inch; let the strippers remain as they were,
TDut set the workers off the strippers slightly;
set the doffers as for regular work and the
fancy the same.
Set the second breaker the same as the first,
except that the worker next the fancy is set
quite close to the cylinder. This is to regulate
the size of the nubs required; set the fancy
the same as on ordinary stock. Set the fin-
isher the same as the first and second break-
ers, with the exception of the first and last
workers. These can be set closer to the cyl-
inder to regulate the size of the nubs. The
best way to get the workers on both sides alike
is to notice the number of turns on the nut
before setting. Sam Driver.
Difficulty With Rub Rolls on Coarse Wool
We would like to know of a good means for
overcoming the difficulty in making well
rubbed roping from pure wool similar to the
-enclosed sample. What is the best lubricant
for this class of wool? A great deal of stock
drops below the card and the roping runs back
on the mule on account of the roping being
so loose and fluffy. Dexter (1158).
In carding coarse wool like the sample sub-
mitted, I found the following method to give
the best results: The aprons should be set to
a 32 gauge with the middle roll on the same
level with the rest, giving them a long run and
"being careful that they do not rub together.
28 KINKS ON WOOL
They can usually be run at 350 revolutions,
but if they shake the card at a less speed they
are either worn badly or set wrong. The one
that is either too long or too short should be
changed. Stop the aprons so that when the
eccentric is moved it will go either towards or
away from the card, as it will move easier in
this position. The eccentric is held by two
bolts on the under side. A leader should
never be used on either pulley and the belt
can . generally be made to run properly by
adjusting the idle pulleys. Keep the aprons
damp or they will not do their work. The
best dressing for aprons is made of three parts
crude oil and one part degras. With very lit-
tle heat this mixture will readily blend. Put
this mixture on after stripping the cards and
the work will go along smoothly. Coarse wool
will sometimes drop under the card if the
cylinders are allowed to get dull, or are run
too fast. The cylinders on coarse wool should
run about 70 revolutions a minute.
Lytton.
To answer this question intelligently one
should be on the spot, as the question is rather
indefinite. Much depends on the adjustment
of the rub rolls. The Barker condensers can
be made to rub anything if they are properly
adjusted and oiled with the right kind of rub
oil. Neatsfoot or Castor oil answers very well
CARDING AND SPINNING 2Q
as a rub oil. Some claim that they are too
expensive, but no oil is too expensive that
gives satisfaction. Many carders are handi-
capped by superintendents who insist that
because an oil is cheap the carders must use
it. Use enough oil or emulsion to keep the
stock partly damp. Judgment must be used
in oiling the wool. Get the stock damp, but
not too wet, and it will work better. If the
rubs get filled up with oil use some ammonia
as this will cut out the oil and make the rubs
take hold better and give better results.
If the stock drops below the cards they
must be running too fast. For this grade of
stock 85 revolutions per minute is fast enough.
If run any faster, there will be a lot of waste
made. Setting the cards properly and having
them sharp cannot help but give good work.
Adding a little powdered rosin to the rub roll
will make them take hold better. If "Dexter"
is using the old style rub roll he should take
each set out and grind down even on a roller
grinder and then set close with a little oil on
each. Rogers.
A Kink in Carbonizing
It will show how economy is. consulted in
the Yorkshire handling of rags if a leaf from
the book of a Leeds firm is quoted. These
dealers had an unlimited demand at one time
3O KINKS ON WOOL
for carbonized waste of a maroon or brown
color. They asked a dyer how they could car-
bonize and dye brown in one operation? He
brought them some Azo-Carmine, which was
dissolved in the acid for carbonizing. The
latter was strong enough to discharge some of
the original color and after the oven- drying
and the subsequent willeying the mixed rags
came out all wool and all brown of substan-
tially the very shade wanted. The item is
given as an encouragement to experiment and
to ingenuity. Regent
Causes of Uneven Roping
I read a list of Causes of Uneven Roping in
the Textile World Record several months ago
and I cut out the article. It has been lost and
I want to get another one like it, for there are
some points in it that I had not heard before,
and I've been in the card-room since I was a
boy. Perhaps it wouldn't do any harm if you
published it again. Dobney (937).
The portion of the article referred to by
Dobney is as follows: When using creels on
the second breaker never have a full set in at
one time; have partly filled spools on one-half
of the creel and full spools on the other half;
the roping will be more even in this way.
When all the spools run out together there
are so many splicings that they cause the rop-
ing to be heavy for a time. The more spools
CARDING AND SPINNING 3 1.
there are in the creels the more doubling and
the more even roping. One drawing out
makes the roping finer.
Among the causes of uneven roping are im-
perfect cleaning and mixing of the stock, ir-
regularity in putting on oil and composition,
inaccurate weighing and feeding, feed rolls
and other cylinders winding stock and filling
up after stripping, strained drawings from
second breaker to Apperly feed, belts and
gears slipping, and inferior card-room help.
Perfection in the form of all cylinders from
the largest to the smallest is essential in mak-
ing even roping.
If the ring doffer is out of true so that it
comes nearer to the cylinder during one part
of its revolution, there will be a gradual vari-
ation in the roping from coarse to fine and the
increase and decrease will alternate in lengths
equal to the circumference of the ring. If the
main cylinder is out of true so that one side
runs nearer to the doffer than the other, the
variations in size of roping will be repeated in
lengths equal to the circumference of the cyl-
inder. Uneven roping may also be caused by
the workers, leader-in, tumbler and fancy
being out of true.
These imperfections may not always be ap-.
parent to the naked eye and are not very
easily detected. There is no doubt that these
small things are the cause of uneven roping
32 KINKS ON WOOL
and of uneven yarn, besides an endless
amount of trouble. The remedy is simple and
consists in truing the small cylinder as well
as the large one and keeping them true no
matter how hard the cards may be driven.
Quality first and then quantity is the best rule
for both carder and manufacturer.
The feed rolls should be of the same size
-and perfectly true; if one is larger than the
other, they will not deliver evenly, and this
will be more or less perceptible in the yarn
according to the difference in size between
them. Another very frequent cause of uneven
roping is the careless manner in which the
pulleys are lagged with leather, making them
untrue or lopsided, causing the belt to run
slack or tight, thus driving them at unequal
speeds and producing results similar to thoje
from uneven surfaces.
A dull tumbler will cause uneven strands on
the ends of the spools. Uneven feeds make
uneven roping. Another cause is defective
setting of the ring doffers. If the fancy on
the finisher is set too hard or runs too fast or
the card runs too long without stripping, or if
the cylinder is dull, fine strands will be made
on the ends of spools and heavy strands in the
middle. The first full spools made after strip-
ping the cylinder should be torn up.
Crowding the stock in the first breaker feed
and then letting it run nearly out is the cause
CARDING AND SPINNING 33
of much uneven roping. The small pulleys of
the Apperly feed should be cleaned and oiled
every week. When weighing roping weigh the
tops and bottoms, then the sides and the mid-
dle. The tops and bottoms should be run sep-
arately. If making warp and filling from the
same lot, the ' tops will make the strongest
warp. To ensure even roping, the feed rolls,
leader-in and tumbler should be faultless. If
they are allowed to get filled with stock, the
best results will not be obtained.
Oiling Different Kinds of Stock
We would like to obtain all the information
possible as to the use of oil or emulsion on
woolen stock to be carded.
Should the consistency of the emulsion, i. e.,
the proportion of the ingredients, vary in a
mill according to the different stocks it is
using, or is it customary for a mill to use the
.same proportion of ingredients?
Are there a few standard proportions which
could be given as suitable for the different
kinds of woolen mill work?
What regulates the proper amount of emul-
sion to be used?
Are any better results obtained by using all
oil instead of a mixture? Dalton (1025).
It is customary for manufacturers to vary
proportions of the emulsions to suit the stock
that is being carded.
There are no standard proportions that
could be given for the different kinds of stock.
34 KINKS ON WOOL
The materials used for woolen goods vary so
widely that the exact proportions of oil and
water can be determined only by actul tests.
The amount of emulsion is regulated to pro-
duce the most perfect yarn with the least
amount of waste.
Opinions vary widely among 'manufacturers
regarding the relative advantages of using oil
or a mixture of oil and water on wool. One of
the disadvantages of using water is the evap-
oration which causes an irregularity in the
stock. If effective means are taken to prevent
excessive evaporation a moderate amount of
water facilitates the carding process. Any
water added to the stock in the picking room
of course evaporates before it reaches the
spinning process.
Soft Noses on Bobbins
We are spinning 7-8 to 1 1/4-run yarn on
English and American mules and are troubled
with soft noses on the bobbins which cause
the filling to slip from the bobbin during
weaving and make much waste. Can you
suggest a remedy? Ridley (542).
We have secured the following expert opin-
ions on this trouble, the cause of which is very
difficult to point out without knowing all the
conditions in the mill where it exists.
CARDING AND SPINNING 35
Be sure that the quadrant on the mule is
not set too far back, as this will invariably
cause the mule to wind hard on the shoulder
and soft or slack on the nose. If it is a Davis
and Furber machine be sure that the two
center tracks are perfectly true and level,
otherwise it will wind with soft places. The
builder rail should also be in such a position
as will insure an even wind. Holz.
In order to answer the question fully we
ought to have full details of the style of mule,
together with the number of teeth in the
gears, the kind of quadrant plate, builder, etc.
Soft noses on bobbins can often be remedied
by setting the quadrant arm a little lower
down. This has the effect of turning the spin-
dles faster when the yarn is being wound on
the nose, thus making them tighter.
The difficulty might also be caused by the
faller leg knocking off the square stud too
soon, or it may be that there is something that
is imperfectly set just at the finish of the
draw so that the weight is taken off the yarn
and the yarn is not wound on the nose under
tension. There are so many things that might
cause this difficulty, and which vary with each
type of mule, that we can give only general
Information without knowing more of the
details. Wilts.
36 KINKS ON WOOL
There are many things that might cause the
trouble which Ridley mentions. The floor may
be uneven; the track may drop as it goes
toward the head and the machine get ahead
of the wind; the faller might trip too quickly.
If we could have one of the bobbins sent us
we think there would be no difficulty in find-
Ing a remedy. Lincoln.
Preventing Soft Noses on Cops
How can a woolen or worsted mule be pre-
vented from making soft .noses on tops of cops
without a nosing motion? Stamford (670).
There are various things that would cause a
bobbin or cop to be soft on the top. First, if
the quadrant arm is too far from the vertical
the nose will be too loose. Second, the trouble
might be in the builder shoes; they not being
adjusted properly, as is often the case. Set
the rail on the forward and back shoes so that
when the builder is wound up the studs will be
close to the top of the incline. The adjust-
ment for both shoes at once is made by the
slot in that part of the rail opposite the in-
clined side. If necessary change the position
of the back shoe, without moving the front
shoes, by the small rod connecting the two.
For cops I would suggest that the shoe on the
inside be set so that the end of the builder rail
be just on the edge of the groove on the shoe,
CARDING AND SPINNING 37
ready to start down as soon as the builder
starts to work.
It is sometimes necessary to have a special
shoe on the front end of the builder rail. For
cops this can be secured from the shops where
the mules are made. At the rear end of the
rail there should be a hinged flip, one end
hinged to the rail and the other end resting
on a set screw, and as the rail is lowered the
flip, which is adjustable, becomes raised on a
level with the rail. Now the end attached to
the rail is lowered with it while the end rest-
ing on the casting remains stationary. As a
result the angle on the corner of the flip be-
comes raised above the surface of the builder
rail, and as the carriage comes against the
back stops the builder rail traveler strikes the
projection thus formed, and imparts a sharp
flip to the winding faller. The effect of this
is to wind a few turns of yarn down over the
nose of the bobbin, making a firm nose and
preventing the yarn from slubbing up the
bobbin.
Then again the trouble might be in the
drum gear, which is driven by the quadrant
chain. This gear should be larger for the
winding of cops. They have any desired num-
ber of teeth for this gear at the shops where
the mules are made. Spinner.
3& KINKS ON WOOL
Testing for Soap or Alkali in Waste Liquor
Would you please inform me if there is any
chemical in liquid or powder form that when
added to waste liquor from washing 1 machines
will determine any trace of soap or alkali?
Atwood (2038).
The testing of wash water to determine
whether it is free from soap or alkali is not
difficult, but in order to be sure of one's re-
sults it becomes necessary that the tests be
made carefully with properly prepared chemi-
cals. Testing for the presence of soap in any
wash or rinse water is best done with a few
drops of dilute muriatic acid added to a sam-
ple of the water contained in a clean glass.
If soap in appreciable quantity is present, the
water will become slightly turbid, due to the
separation of free fatty acid. If, on the other
hand, the amount of soap in the wash water
is very slight, the degree of turbidity may be
so -faint as to be difficult to detect. As most
mill soaps always contain free alkali, perhaps
the best test is for free alkali, which, if found,
is always a sure indication that soap is also
present. A solution of phenolphthalein in
alcohol (1 part of the former to 500 parts of
the latter) is first prepared. It can be ob-
tained at a drug store. Four ounces of this
solution will be sufficient for hundreds of
tests, as only one or two drops are used for a
test. A glass of the water to be tested is
CARDING AND SPINNING 39
taken, and to it is added a drop or two of the
phenolphthalein solution, when, if soap con-
taining free alkali is present, the entire solu-
tion becomes tinted pink or reddish according
to the amount present.
As the solution of phenolphthalein is very
sensitive to alkali, the person who makes the
test should wash a test glass thoroughly after
each test, and keep it in a place where it may
not collect dust. The bottle containing the
test solution should have a glass stopper.
Beta-Naphthol.
Horse Power of a Waterfall
Please give the rule for estimating without
instruments the flow of water over a waterfall.
Also give me the rule for estimating the num-
ber of horse power where the height of the
fall and the flow of water are known, the lat-
ter having been found by the rule asked for
above. Maynard (1167).
The following is the method for the meas-
urement of an open stream by velocity and
cross-section to arrive at the theoretical horse
power of the stream: Measure the depth of
the water at from 6 to 12 points across the
stream at equal distances between. Add all
the depths in feet together and divide by the
number of measurements made; this will be
the average depth of the stream, which mul-
tiplied by its width will give its area or cross-
4O KINKS ON WOOL
section. Multiply this by the velocity of the
stream in feet per minute, and the result will
be the discharge in cubic feet per minute.
The velocity of the stream can be found by
laying off 100 feet of the bank and throwing a
float into the middle, noting the time taken in
passing over the 100 feet. Do this a number
of times and take the average; dividing thib
distance by the time gives the velocity at the
surface. As the top of the stream flows faster
than the bottom or sides, the average velocity
being about 83 per cent, of the surface veloc-
ity at the middle, it is convenient to measure
a distance of 120 feet for the float and reckon
it as 100.
Water Power:
English Rule: 33,000 pounds raised one
foot in one minute = 1 h. p.
200 pounds of water (20 imperial gallons)
3 feet fall per second = 1 h. p. or 60 gallons
1 foot fall per second 1 h. p. there-
fore: 224 gallons 2240 (Ibs.) X 3 (feet)
X 60 (seconds) -=- 33,000 = 12.2 h. p. Deduct-
ing 25 per cent, on account of turbine loss
gives 9.8 actual or effective h. p.
If the sectional area is taken in small sec-
tions and different rates of flow, 10 per cent,
for friction would be about right.
The gross power of a fall of water is the
product of the weight of water discharged in
a unit of time into the total head, or the dif-
CARDING AND SPINNING 4!
ference of vertical elevation of the upper sur-
face of the water at the points where the fall
in question begins and ends. The term "head"
used in connection with Water wheels is the
difference in height from the surface of the-
water in the wheel-pit and the surface in the
pen-stock when the wheel is running.
A water wheel or motor of any kind can-
not utilize the whole of the head since there
are losses of head at both the entrance to and
the exit from the wheel. There are also losses
of energy due to friction of the water in its-
passage through the wheel.
F. S. Hinds,
Architect and Engineer.
Production of Woolen Finisher Card
Please state the best method of calculating-
the production of a woolen finisher card. I
have calculated the production of our finisher
cards, from the weight of roving and size of
doffer rings, but the results vary from 15 to 25
per cent, from the actual product. The out-
side diameter of rings is 11 3/4 inches. The
doffer makes 14 turns per minute. We are-
using 11 rub-roll condensers. The roving reels
1 1/2 runs as it oomes from the condenser.
There are 20 ends taken from each of the two.
doffers. Iroquois (342).
The error in Iroquois' calculation is evident
from his explanation. He has neglected to
take into account the draft of the roving by
-42 KINKS ON WOOL
the condenser. At our request Iroquois has
informed us that the spool drum at the fin-
isher is 29 inches in circumference, and makes
21 turns per minute, showing a surface speed
of 609 inches per minute. The surface speed
of the doffer, which is 11 3/4 inches in diam-
eter and makes 14 turns per minute, is 517
inches per minute, consequently the spool
drum winds 18 per cent more length of rov-
ing than the doffer is delivering. This in-
crease is due to the draft of the rub rolls.
Iroquois' error was due to his calculating from
the speed of the doffer and the weight of yarn
at the spool drum.
Taking the speed of the spool drum and
weight of the roving at the spool drum as
factors we calculate the production of the card
as follows:
S09 (in. per min.) X 40 (ends) ~ 677 yds.
roving per min.
677 (yds.) -f- 150 (yds. per oz.) 4 1/2 ozs.
roving per min.
4 1/2 (ozs.) X 60 (min. per hour) = 17 Ibs.
roving per hour.
Operatives Needed for a Ten Set Mill
How many operatives would be required for
a mill manufacturing wool goods like the en-
closed samples, which are medium carded
woolen goods? I wish that you would make
out a list of the machinery for a ten set mill
CARDING AND SPINNING 43
equipped for this class of work, and give a
statement of the number of hands required.
I would like to have you give the number of
each kind of operatives. Gaylord (1891).
In dealing with the equipment of a ten-set
woolen mill, I will begin with the machinery
for handling the raw stock. If it is the inten-
tion of the party to scour his own wool, it
will be necessary to have a four-bowl wool
scouring machine, a 21-foot dryer, an ex-
tractor, and burr picker, with two men to
operate these machines. The next depart-
ment should be the dye house, equipped with
five dye tubs, 8 feet wide, and 4 feet deep,
with perforated false bottom, made of cypress
and fitted with at least a 3-inch pipe to allow
an ample supply of water. It will be neces-
sary to have three men to pole the stock in
the tubs and attend to the extracting, with
another man to run the dryer and double
sheet the stock, and an overseer of dyeing.
The picker house comes next. There should
be a fearnaught. This equipped with an auto-
matic feed should properly handle all the mix-
ing for a ten-set mill. It will also be neces-
sary to have an oil tank in which to make and
measure the emulsion for the stock, and a
duster for the mill waste, also a blower sys-
tem to convey the mixed stock to the different
bins in the card room. Three men should be
able to handle the mixing and dusting, under
44 KINKS ON WOOL
the supervision of the overseer of carding, or
his second hand, and attend to the stock.
In laying out the card room, large bins
should be built, with a large galvanized iron
pipe running overhead, with an opening and
switch in each bin, and connecting with the
picker house, so as to enable the picker man
to blow his stock to any one of the bins. The
cards should be four cylinder, 60 by 60 inches,
with Bramwell feed for first breaker and Ap-
perly connecting with finisher card, combina-
tion rubs and garnett breast, also one floor
grinder and two traverse grinders. For help
there will be an overseer, second hand, and a
third hand to reel and weigh the roping. Twa
strippers, one man to attend to the Bramwell
feeds, two men to care for the Apperly feeds,
and two boys to attend the finishers.
The spinning room should have twelve
mules, 2-inch gauge, four hundred spindles
each, and using an 8-inch bobbin, and a full-
ing machine for fulling spindle bands. The
help would be an overseer, fixer, one man to
carry roping from the card room, a boy ta
sort waste, and twelve spinners.
In the spooling and dressing department,
four spooling frames should be sufficient to
handle the work, and two dressing frames
equipped with size box and dryer for sizing
yarn, one twisting machine and one skein
winding machine. The help required would
CARDING AND SPINNING 45
be an overseer, one man to help around the
room and take warps to the weave room, tw r o
dresser tenders, one girl each on the twisting
and skein winding machines, and four girls to
do the spooling.
In the weaving department it will be neces-
sary to have three drawing-in frames, forty-
five 82-inch looms for thirty harness work.
These should be four-box looms. The over-
seer should have a man to attend to the reeds
and harnesses and direct the drawing in.
There would also be required two filling car-
riers, one boy to sort waste and pick up bob-
bins, three drawing-in girls, and in some
places it will be found necessary to have boys
or young girls to hand in to the girls that are
drawing-in warps. One man to look over all
warps before starting the loom in order to
guard against wrong drawing-in or reeding.
Two loom fixers, each one to take care of a
section of nineteen looms. The remaining
seven looms to be taken care of by either a
spare hand, or the man who does the perch-
ing. The burling and sewing should be under
the supervision of the overseer of finishing.
The amount of help required depends alto-
gether upon the class of goods made, and the
class of weavers in the mill.
The finishing room should have five fulling
mills, two 8 -string washers, one extractor, one
cloth dryer, one sand roll machine, three.
46 KINKS ON WOOL
shears, two steam brushing machines, one
press, one dewing machine and one measur-
ing and winding machine. The help in the
department, besides the overseer, would in-
clude a second hand, two men for the fulling
and washing, two men on the dryer, three
men on the shears, one man on the press, and
one to run the steam brush, or help in the
shipping of goods. The engine and boilers
would come under the care of the master
mechanic, who would have an engineer, fire-
man and helper.
If the mill was located far from a city it
would be necessary to have a fair sized ma-
chine and carpenter shop, with a master me-
chanic, boss carpenter and two helpers.
If some of the stock is to be carbonized, it
will be necessary to add two cypress dip tanks
with cages for acid, another extractor, and a
neutralizing washer to the wool scouring de-
partment. The same dryer can be used for
carbonizing as well as for wool drying, and
one more man would have to be added to this
department. Manx.
Setting Mixing Picker
We are running a mixing picker with con-
cave feed rolls which seem to raise havoc with
the staple. Will you give me some pointers
on how the machine ought to be set so I can
compare them with our machine.
Daniels (1131).
CARDING AND SPINNING 47
1. The picker should be set on a solid
foundation so that there will be no vibration.
2. The spiked feed roll and concave dish
should be set as close as possible to the cyl-
inder teeth and not strike. This will keep the
feed roll from winding stock.
3. The feed roll should be set down in con-
cave within half an inch of striking. If set
way off the stock will dwell in concave and
cause it to cut the staple. Save the staple.
4. The feed rolls and apron should run as
fast as the cylinder will take it. This saves
the staple, because there will be no chance for
the stock to dwell in the concave.
5. The grates and outlet kept clean and
not allowed to get filled up with dirt under
the picker. This will give a better draft and
the picker will do better work. The stock will
be cleaner.
6. Plenty of ventilation back of the gauze
room, and the belts all good and tight.
With a picker equipped with spur teeth feed
rolls the feed rolls must be set as close to the
cylinder as on concave feed; everything else
the same. D. R. S.
The Belgium System of Woolen Carding
What is the Belgium system of woolen card-
ing? How does it differ from the system gen-
erally employed in American mills?
Geister (1932).
4& KINKS ON WOOL
Regarding the Belgium system of carding,
I wish to say, it is a known fact that a great
deal of fine short noils and waste from Eng-
land find their way over to Belgium to be con-
verted into fine spun, beautiful yarn running
from 7 to 9 runs, and reshipped to England.
Europe is noted for making fine shoddy and
yarns. They have the system down to such a
nicety that a high class of goods is a result.
The Belgium system has not grown in the
United States simply because it requires
skilled help to run the machinery. There are
only a few mills in this country that use the
system.
Like our own woolen cards, the Belgium
system has three operations, namely, first and
second breaker and finisher. On account of
the fine, short stock used, the cards are cov-
ered with hoods to keep in the fly. Unlike our
own first breaker in the woolen system with
its doffer and side creel to a bobbin, the first
machine in Belgium makes laps or rolls that
are fed to the second machine, the object be-
ing to give a more perfect blending of the
stock, especially in mixtures. The second ma-
chine resembles our second breaker, but when
the stock reaches the doffer it is combed off
and runs on a railroad back of the third ma-
chine or finisher. There is a traverse motion
going back and forth the width of the apron.
The stock comes out of the front of the
CARDING AND SPINNING 49
finisher in a thin web, and is subdivided into
threads passing through the rub aprons
and then to the spools. Narrow leather belts
divide the sliver and there are four spools fill-
ing at a time from the front end of the ma-
chine instead of only two as is the case of the
ordinary finisher or condenser. The belts
dividing the ends are very narrow, about 1/4
inch wide, with 240 ends coming from a
60-inch card on to four spools. The Belgium
system is noted for its using very short and
very fine stock. It is not adapted for coarse
stock. The construction of the finisher is com-
plicated. The greatest care has to be taken
in setting the motion, and if the man in
charge does not understand the machine there
is endless trouble for him. The workers and
strippers on all the machines are covered.
Schwartzwald.
Fine Ends on the Apperly Feed
I am having trouble with the side ends com-
ing fine on the finisher of a card that is
equipped with an Apperly feed. Can you sug-
gest any remedy? Bunker (731).
There are many things that cause the out-
side strands to be fine at times. I would ad-
vise Bunker to take out the doffers and give
them a good light grinding. Then I should
give them a good brushing with a hand card
covered with wool. Grind all day if neces-
5O KINKS ON WOOL
sary, or until they are perfectly true. Per-
haps the waste ring is a trifle higher than the
others. In that case I should move the out-
side or waste ring out 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch
so the ring next to it on the other doffer would
deliver heavier roving. The spare ring may
steal from the ring next to it. When I had
trouble with the outside end being fine I used
to take out the packing of the spare or waste
ring and move it out 1/16 or 1/8 and that
would bring up the outside strands to their
proper size. I should incline the overhead
drawing on the side that was fine.
Sam Driver.
Setting of Workers and Strippers
We are running our cards on stock to be
made into felt goods. This stock contains
wool, cotton and shoddy in varying amounts,
according to the quality of goods desired.
There has been some discussion among carders
as to the setting of the workers and strippers
on the main cylinder. One carder maintains
that to get good results from practically two
cards, the setting of all workers should be the
same. I maintain that the last two should be
set closer than the first and second workers.
We are using all fillett clothing, No. 33 wire
on workers and main cylinder. Can you ad-
vise me which one has the better argument in
regard to setting the cylinders for best re-
sults? At present we are running workers set
about 32 gauge. Exeter (1935).
CARDING AND SPINNING 1
The 32 gauge is all right and the workers
should all be set the same. One thing can be
done that will greatly benefit this class of
work, and that is to have the worker pulleys
all of different sizes. Start from the feed end
of the card and have each pulley one-quarter
of an inch larger than the one before it. This
will make a more even mix and smoother rov-
ing, the stock will spin better and make
better yarn. It is also a good plan for second
breaker card. The idea of setting a part of
the workers off on a finisher card on this class
of work can have but one result. The first
that are set off will deliver the long stock and
retain the short, consequently the long stock
will go forward first and be put into the rov-
ing in the center of the strand; this will put
the short stock on the outside, which is just
the reverse of what it should be.
Lytton.
The first worker should be set with a 20
gauge open; the next worker set with the
same gauge, but left a little looser; the next
tight, and then graduating more closely until
the last worker is set as close as possible with-
out striking the cylinder. Set the strippers
the same as the workers to cylinder, and set
the workers as close as possible to the strip-
pers. Set the doffer close to the cylinder.
52 KINKS ON WOOL
The finisher or last card should be graduated
only a little closer. Commence the first
worker with a 27 gauge loose; the next one
;set a little close; and so on until the last one
next to the fancy is set the closest.
Sam Driver.
Emery Cloth on Traverse Grinders
Can you tell me whether traverse grinders
are ever covered with emery cloth? I have
heard that they are but I have not seen one.
Bowie (1137).
Traverse grinders can be covered with
emery cloth and are in general use in cotton
card rooms. To fasten the ends of emery
cloth or filleting, two small slits are sawed on
each side of the emery wheel. Then the ends
of the cloth are put through these slits and
fastened on the inside of the wheel by small
clamps. Put on a very light coat of glue and
wind in the same as with any other filleting.
D. V.
Grinding 1 , Settings and Care of Wool Cards
How often should a card be ground in order
to keep it in the best possible condition on 50
per cent, good clean fine Territory wool, 50
per rent, fine shoddy?
What are the causes of rough, twitty or
bunchy work from cards and how avoided?
How does a perfectly ground point on a
wool card look?
CARDING AND SPINNING 53
What is the best size of wire and clothing to
use on a set of woolen cards on all fine stock
(strictly fine), in order to make good, smooth,
even work free from specks or mixtures of all
kinds?
How close can carding surfaces on a wool
card be kept and not touch, and what thick-
ness of gauge is best to use to do the setting?
What is the best for carding out specks, a
rough point or an absolutely polished, smooth
point, no matter what the shape of that point
may be? Carder (1981).
Cards should be ground as often as they get
dull. It is a good plan for the carder to look
over his cards every day or two, to see if
there are any dull places on either workers or
cylinders. If there are, they should be ground
as soon as possible. It is a good plan to use
what is called a false worker, which is an iron
shaft, to take the place of any worker that
may be removed. The cylinder should also be
watched for blisters. A card will never do
good work when dull. It may have to be
ground in three or four days, or it may run as
many months.
Twits are made in a number of ways. A
single wire may be pulled up in a ring so as
to stand a little higher than the others. This
will often cause a twit every time it comes to
the wipe roll.
Rings should be watched carefully for high
wires, which should be put in place with a
tube. Noils will sometimes make twits. There
54 KINKS ON WOOL
are usually short splinters in noils. One of
these may get stuck between the wires of a
ring, and make a twit every time it comes to
the wipe roll. Twits are often made on the
mule and the carder is frequently blamed for
them. Many mules are run without a feed
rope, the spinner turning the quadrant by
hand.
If the spinner happens to be at the end of
the machine piecing up, and thinks the mule
will go in without breaking down, he fre-
quently stays there instead of attending to the
quadrant. In this way twits may be made the
whole length of the mule. A single stretch in
the mule may in this way make more twits
than a carder will make in half a day. Dull
w r ire will make rough work a/t any time, and
bunchy work is usually made by the stock
going in uneven on the feed end of the card.
The top feed roll should always be covered
with shorter wire than the bottom. The
lickerin should be covered with short wire. In
this way a great deal of bunchy work can be
prevented. It is a good plan to have the
worker pulleys of different sizes. This will
prevent many bunches.
The appearance of a ground point on a wool
card depends on what it is ground with. If it
is ground with fine emery or an old worn out
grinder, it will look like a chisel. If the
emery is of good quality and No. 8 in size, It
CARDING AND SPINNING 55
will grind the wire more to a needle point,
which is much to be preferred.
I prefer No. 32 for first breaker; No. 33 for
second breaker; No. 34 for finisher; with a
straight wire open set for the fancy. I never
use filleting on a cylinder. I much prefer
sheets. Filleting will fill up much more
quickly than sheets, and the stock is harder
to raise from it. Filleting will not make such
even roving, for when the card is filled up the
top doffer will take more than its share of
stock.
If the rolls are true, carding surface on a
wool card can be set to a 32 gauge and not
touch when at work. A fine, sharp point is
best for all work on a card. Lytton.
Winding Under on Woolen Mules
We are having considerable trouble with the
yarn winding under the bobbins on our mules.
This causes the yarn to break when it is
spooled or woven from the shuttle. We think
it is caused by the spinner's allowing the fall-
ers to get too high. Are we right? If not,
"what is the remedy? Tippecanoe (377).
This trouble of winding under on woolen
mules is very annoying and, unfortunately,
very frequent in woolen mills. Attention to
the care and management of the machine will
generally remedy the trouble, but it is one in
which constant attention is essential, other-
wise the difficulty will recur. A prominent
56 KIXKS OX WOOL
builder of spinning machinery, to whom this
question was submitted, writes the following:
'There are several things that can cause
this trouble. In the first place the faller chain
may be too high; secondly, the mule may be
backing off too much, leaving the ends too
slack; thirdly, there may be a flat place on the
roll that runs on the rail; fourthly, the track
may not be level, or there may be a low spot
in the track as a result of the floor having
sprung; again the trouble may arise from the
shoe being too straight. The remedies for the
above faults will readily suggest themselves."
Testing- Grease Wool to Determine
Shrinkage
Please give me information regarding the
method of testing grease wool to determine its
shrinkage as practiced in French conditioning
houses. Sanborn (2018).
This inquiry was referred to our French
correspondent who replies as follows:
Grease wool is rarely conditioned. A sample
of about two pounds is drawn from the lot.
This is obtained by drawing small portions
from a number of bales. These samples are
taken from the fleeces on the outside of some
of the bales and on the inside of others.
Naturally it is necessary to draw the samples
from different parts of the fleece. In testing
large lots it is necessary to take the average
CARDING AND SPINNING 57
of two or even three samples. The test sample
thus obtained is weighed in grains. It is then
scoured by the following process:
1. Washing in a solution of Marseilles soap
at 120 F.
2. Rinsing in water at 80 F. The wool
should be a clear white after this rinsing.
The duration of the operations varies greatly,
depending upon the condition of the wool.
3. Washing in a 1 to 2 per cent, solution of
hydrochloric acid at a temperature of 120 F.
4. Rinsing in a 5 to 6 per cent, solution of
carbonate of lime at a temperature of 120 F.
5. Rinsing in a solution of acetic acid at
80 F. After squeezing the water out by
hand the sample is placed in an ordinary
Persoz conditioning oven. The temperature is
raised to 212 to 240 F. At the end of
three-quarters of an hour the weight of the
sample is found to be constant, which indi-
cates that all of the moisture has been driven
off by the heat. The weight of the sample in
this condition is then increased by the conven-
tional allowance for moisture, which in the
case of wool is 19 per cent. The director of
the public conditioning house at Amiens is not
able to state the exact time required for con-
ditioning raw wool, as the time varies with
the condition of the wool. Gaul.
58 KINKS ON WOOL
Qualitative Tests for Fibers
Can you give me a few qualitative tests for
textile fibers? Walton (974).
The following is a list of tests that was pub-
lished in the Textile World Record some time
ago:
1. Microscopic Appearance.
2. Cotton burns without smell, while wool
and silk shrivel up and give off the odor of
burning animal matter.
3. A boiling solution of caustic alkali dis-
solves silk and wool, but has little action on
cotton.
4. Concentrated sulphuric acid dissolves
cotton and silk in the cold, while wool is little
affected.
5. Schweitzer's reagent (ammoniacal solu-
tion of oxide of copper) dissolves cotton and
silk, but not wool. Cellulose is reprecipitated
by gum, sugar, or acids, but the silk substance
by acids alone.
6. A solution of basic chloride of zinc dis-
solves silk, but not cotton or wool.
7. A solution of cotton in concentrated sul-
phuric acid gives a purple coloration with an
alcoholic solution of alpha-naphthol. This
reaction really indicates the presence of sugar,
and is therefore not given by silk or wool.
8. Millions reagent (mercurous-mercuric
nitrate) gives a red color with silk or wool, but
not with cotton.
CARDING AND SPINNING 59
9. Wool (also hair and fur) is blackened by
heating 1 with a dilute solution of plumbite of
soda, which is prepared by dissolving litharge
in caustic soda. Silk and cotton, as they do
not contain sulphur, are unaffected in color.
10. Nitric acid colors wool and silk yellow,
but does not affect cotton.
11. An acid solution of indigo extract dyes
wool and silk, but not cotton.
Nub Effects and How to Produce Them
We would like to have some information re-
garding the manufacture of nubs and how
they are put into the yarn without carding
out. Saxon (1245).
Bocker or nub yarns produce very attractive
effects when properly made and used in cassi-
meres and dress goods. The nubs can easily
be made if the process is understood. Short,
fine wool of a good felting- quality is the best
to use for this purpose and by following the
instructions here given, good results should
follow. Take an old breaker card, set the
workers and strippers off from the cylinder
according to the size of the nub wanted, and
remove the doffer comb. Any first breaker
will answer, but one that is out of commission
can be made to serve, thus avoiding the ne-
cessity of breaking into the regular work of
other cards. Run in a sufficient amount of
the stock to fill the card. Stop the feed and
60 KINKS ON WOOL
allow the card to run, and the nubs will drop-
out in good condition. Fill the card again as
required to produce the quantity wanted.
Felting the nubs will make them more firm
and avoid the liability of being reduced in
size in the after carding process. This is done
in various ways, such as boiling, soaping and
pounding, but there is danger of overdoing or
a lack of uniformity where these methods are-
followed. The best results the writer ever
had came from the use of a machine similar
to a cylinder flock cutter with revolving forks
or rods in the place of the cutter, the cylinder
turning in one direction and the forks in the
other, similar to the action of a revolving
duster. I found this machine in us.e when I
went to the mill, but do not know whether it
was made specially for the purpose or was a
remodeled flock cutter. The nubs were
soaped slightly and put into the cylinder, ana
the felting was produced without the nubs
being felted together, as often happens where
other methods are employed. The forks kept
the nubs well separated, and thfe felting was
sufficiently slow to avoid overdoing the proc-
ess. In coloring the nubs, care should be
taken not to boil too hard or allow them to-
come in close contact with the steam, as this
will tend to felt them too much or unevenly.
The amount of nubs required can be mixed
with the lot at the picker, and the workers set
CARDING AND SPINNING 6l
off. a little in carding- to avoid reducing the
nubs in size. This method is often employed,
but there are sometimes objections to it, es-
pecially where fine yarns are made. By set-
ting off the workers the quality of the carding
is somewhat impaired. If they are not set off
the nubs are reduced in size, and the fibers
carded from them go into the body of the
yarn, tending to change the mixture or shade.
We have seen rowy goods caused by the fibers
of the nubs being carded out, producing irreg-
ular effects, due to the variation in the felted
condition of the nubs, those that were felted
the least being more easily carded out. This
trouble can be guarded against by introducing
the nubs in the card instead of the picker
room. This can be done by a special feeding
arrangement attached to the card, preferably
the second breaker. The quality of the card-
ing is not sacrificed, as the necessity of setting
off the workers is avoided. The device con-
sists of a V-shaped feed box about 16 inches
deep and the same width at the top, with the
length corresponding with the width of the
card. There is a feed roll similar to the or-
dinary feed roll of the card, fitted to enter for
about one-half of its diameter into an aper-
ture at the bottom of the box. Against this
feed roll, outside the box, is arranged a brush
made with straight wire fancy clothing, the
diameter to be about five inches. Inside the
62 KINKS ON WOOL
box there is a shaft with iron pins passing-
through it at different angles, extending about
four inches from the shaft in each direction.
Suitable bearings for all these can be at-
tached to each end of the box. The device
can be supported by a frame work resting on
the floor, and placed so as to deliver the nubs
directly back of the front worker of the
second breaker. The feed roll may be driven
from the shaft of the doffer on the end oppo-
site the delivery of the card. The brush may
be driven from the fancy shaft on the delivery
side and the inside shaft with the pins can be
driven with either belt or gear, from the
brush shaft.
The feed roll is speeded to suit the required
amount of nubs, and the brush is set high
enough to free the nubs from the feed roll
and deliver them to the card. The inside ar-
rangement is to stir the nubs in the box and
keep them constantly in contact with the feed
roll. An adjustable strip of metal should be
set along the edge of the feed aperture on the
delivery side, which should be toward the
card. The feed roll and inside shaft should
turn in the same direction, and the brush in
the opposite direction. The framework Is-
fastened securely to the floor and the top
braced from above or from the card frame. It
will readily be seen that this arrangement
makes it possible to keep the workers of the
CARDING AND SPINNING 6$
first and second breakers set to suit the best
results in carding 1 and serves to retain the full
size of the nubs. The finisher card will comb
out the fibers of the nub sufficiently to make
them spin well into the thread.
A very small nub giving an attractive,,
though subdued, effect can be made as fol-
lows: Where the creel instead of self feed is
used for the second breaker, fill the workers
with tallow as far in from the end as corre-
sponds with the space taken by three or four
drawings at the feed, and use drawings in that
space of a color of the nub desired. Where
the tallow has been used the carding effect
will be destroyed, and the stock will roll inta
small nubs which will be delivered to the
finisher in the drawing. The effect may be
regulated by the number of drawings used and:
the width of the tallow insertion. The stock
used should be similar to that used for other
nub effects, and the drawings made separate
from the regular carding and kept ready for
use as required. On account of the small size
of the nubs, strongly contrasting colors are
desirable.
These nubs produce very good effects in
dress goods and other fabrics not requiring
much gigging. Elmo.
64 KINKS ON WOOL
Random Roping
Will you publish in the Questions and An-
swers Department how Random roping can
be made?
Random roping can be made with a creel
on the finisher in conjunction with vibrating
doffers. Everything must be adjusted just
right, both doffers must be positive in their
action and care must be taken to have the
rings occupy their required space and position;
then the rings will take up the required quan-
tity of stock from each stripe. Every other
drawing-in creel and guide is of a different
color, say, red alternating with green, etc.
The roping will have at certain intervals a
clouded appearance and then grow less cloudy ,
approaching almost a clear color, and then
gradually reverse until the opposite color pre-
dominates. D. R. S.
How to Mix Wool and Shoddy
We are getting very uneven results from
wool and shoddy mixes and I would like to get
an explanation of how it is best to handle
them up to spinning. . Devol (2129).
In the mixing of wool and shoddy, there
is nearly always trouble arising from the^
tendency of the latter to lag behind in the
picking and carding processes, causing an
irregularity in the yarn, and not infrequently
CARDING AND SPINNING 65
serious imperfections in the cloth, such as
streaky, rowey and cockled effects. In mix-
ture effects and where the warp and filling
are of contrasting colors, the results are often
very unsatisfactory.
However carefully the stock may be laid
down and blended in the picker room, when
it comes from the machine the current of air
accompanying it tends to carry the wool,
which is the lighter stock, to the farther parts
of the blow-room, while the shoddy, being
heavier from the grease and dirt it contains,
falls nearer the mouth of the picker, causing
a partial separation of the two kinds of stock
and an irregularity in the mixture, which is
to some extent repeated every time the stock
goes through the machine. As a result some
portions of the lot are likely to go to the
cards with a greater percentage of shoddy
than others.
When the stock comes to the cards, the
spike-apron of the self-feed takes the long
stock more readily than the short, so that
there is a tendency for the shoddy' to drop
back, whereby the percentage of this stock is
increased as the amount of stock in the feed
gets low. To remedy the difficulty in the
picker room, various plans have been adopted,
none of which wholly overcome the trouble.
One plan is to hang a wooden apron in front
of the picker at an angle to turn the stock to
66 KINKS ON WOOL
the floor, not allowing the wool to fly to the
outer parts of the room. Another good idea
is to have the blow-room as small as possible,
to do the work conveniently, thus giving less
room for the wool to get away from the
shoddy. After striking the walls of the room
it is forced to fall back where the shorter
stock is deposited, thus avoiding a separation.
In carding it is a good plan to keep the self-
feeds well filled, whereby more uniform re-
sults are obtained than if the stock is allowed
to run low in them. The writer was once
called to a position where they were having
serious trouble from rowey goods caused by
the tendency to separation above referred to.
We adopted a plan that entirely overcame the
difficulty. We first made a mixture of 20 per
cent, of wool and 80 per cent, of shoddy and
ran it through a breaker card. The thorough
mixing of this amount of wool with the
shoddy put it into a condition that insured a
more uniform mixture in the picker room and
did away entirely w r ith the tendency to sep-
arate in. the self feed. The fibers of shoddy
were so thoroughly combined with those of
the wool that they were carried along with
greater uniformity, both in the picking and
the carding. One may get the same result by
using fleeced shoddy, which is a stock simi-
larly prepared by the shoddy manufacturer.
The shoddy maker sometimes makes this com-
CARDING AND SPINNING 6/
bination with stock that is too short to dis-
pose of to advantage. The woolen manufac-
turer is often led to believe that fleeced shoddy
is intended to deceive him, but it is really to-
his advantage if procured at a reasonable
figure.
Where one has not the machinery to pre-
pare the stock as suggested, he may get good
results by selecting his shoddy, and then ar-
ranging with the party to combine with it the
desirable percentage of wool. This the shoddy
manufacturer can easily do, and one can know
he is getting just what he pays for. If one
were using a shoddy costing 16 cents per
pound, he might, hesitate about paying 24
cents, because it seemed excessive; but that is
about what the combination would cost if
made with 20 per cent, of wool at 55 cents per
pound. It would be just as cheap, since the
wool is simply added first instead of later in
the picker room, and the advantage of this
plan is without question. We adopted this
plan on a line of goods in which we used all
of our short waste and shoddy, and it gave ex-
cellent results, where we had been up against
all kinds of trouble generally accompanying
such low grade mixtures. If cotton is used in
connection with wool and shoddy, it is a good
plan to combine the cotton with the shoddy;
as the heavy shoddy and the light cotton pro-
duce a mixture that will keep its place with
68 KINKS ON WOOL
the wool in the picker room, and likewise be
beneficial in the carding and spining. Any
percentage of long stock may be used with the
shoddy, even 5 or 10 per cent, being an ad-
vantage, but 20 per cent, or more will give the
best results.
It will be readily seen that the mixture
gives a loftiness to the stock that will cause it
to go along with the wool more uniformly in
picking. When it comes to the feeding to the
cards, the spike-apron takes hold of the wool
fibers, and the shoddy is so thoroughly com-
bined with them that they cannot get away,
as in the case when the shoddy is only com-
bined with the wool in the picking. By a little
careful calculation, the final mixture may con-
tain the desired percentage of short stock, and
the results obtained are well worth the
trouble. A second hand breaker card can be
procured for a song, and if placed near the
other carding or picking machinery, the cost
of running it is small. If it is desired to get
similar results at less cost, a good selection of
long stock, such as garnetted worsted, or the
like, may be used with the shoddy; but care
must be taken to have a good live stock, not
too coarse. Coarse or wiry fibers will cause
twitty yarn by slipping in the spinning.
Elmo.
CARDING AND SPINNING 69
Yarn Numbering
Please state the relation between the wor-
sted and cut systems of yarn numbering.
What would 2-20 cut yarn be equivalent to by
the worsted system? Broome (358).
The Simplex Yarn Tables (published by
Textile World Record, price 50 cents) give an
explanation of the basis of each system and
also enables one to find the equivalent of any
system in the units of the others. No. 1 wor-
sted = 2-3 cotton; 1.86 linen lea or woolen
cut; .35 run. No. 1 linen lea or woolen cut
.535 worsted; .357 cotton; .1875 run. From
this it is clear that No. 2-20 cut is equal to
single 10 cut or No. 5.35 worsted.
As all our systems of yarn numbering are
based upon the fixed weight of one pound,
their proportions are expressed by the length
of the skeins used for them. Thus: Linen or
woolen cut, 300 yards; worsted, 560 yards;
cotton, 840 yards; woolen run, 1,600 yards.
Changing Ring Doffers on Woolen Cards
We have four sets of 48-inch woolen cards
with two doffers. We are taking off 36 ends
of roving, 18 ends on each spool and two waste
ends. We want to take off 54 ends and use 3
spools. The size of the roving is about 5/8
run, made from horse blanket stock. What
changes will be necessary to get the best re-
sults? Hampshire (967).
7O KINKS ON WOOL
In order to put 54 ends on a 48-inch card,
or 3 spools of 18 ends each, it would be nec-
essary to put 27 rings and 1 waste ring on
each doffer. There should be 27 top rings,
13/16 inches wide, besides 1 wide ring to carry
waste end. The bottom doffer should have 27
rings, 14/16 inches wide, and 1 wide waste
ring. On the short side of the Apperly feed a
1 1/8-inch waste ring should be used; on the
long side a 1 5/16-inch waste ring, as on this
side the stock is more likely to bunch in. The
lickerin has a better chance to comb out the
stock on the short side of the feed. On the
short side the feed rolls hold the fibers while
the latter are being combed out by the licker-
in; on the long side the feed rolls let go
earlier. For these reasons it is better to use
a 1 1/8-inch waste ring on the short side of
the feed and a 1 5/16-inch ring on the long
side. Most carders use 1 1/2 or 2-inch side
rings. We have used all sizes from 1 1/4 to
2-inch, but the best results are obtained from
the 2-inch outside rings. When more than 48
ends are taken from the doffers a narrower
outside ring is used. A good rule to follow is
27 rings, 13/16 inch equal 21 15/16 inches.
27"rings, 14/16 inch equal 23 10/16 inches.
2 rings, 1 2/16 and 1 5/16 inch equal
.2 7/16 inches.
Total, 48 inches.
One and one-half and 1 9/16-inch outside
CARDING AND SPINNING 71
rings can be used. This will make both out-
side rings near the same size and they will
work fully as well.
The best way to run the ends is to take 9
outside ends from each side of top doffer to
top drum, making 18 in all. The center 9 ends
pass to the center of the middle drum; the 18
ends on center of bottom doffer, to bottom
drum; the other 9 ends on outside of bottom
doffer, to center drum of spool stand. This
may look like a Chinese puzzle, but if the
stock is good it works very well; if the stock
is poor, the three-spool stand is a nuisance.
A three-spool stand should never be used on
heavy work. As "Hampshire's" work is 5/8
run on the card, 48 rings are all that should
be used. For that size the rings should not be
less than 7/8 and 1 inch wide. By using nar-
rower rings the stock is packed tight on the
ring to get the weight and it is hard for the
wipe roll to take it from the doffer. This
often causes twits and bad places in the rov-
ing, makes the work go bad on the card and
all through the mill.
It would be a good plan to change the mule
to take 24-end spools and use 24 ends on each
doffer with outside rings. If this is not advis-
able it might be well to put the card in good
shape and increase the speed of the doffer. A
card on 5/8-run work should take off from
400 to 600 pounds of stock a day. Another
72 KINKS ON WOOL
way of increasing 1 production is to increase the
size of the doffers. An increase of 3 inches in
the diameter of the doffer would increase the
production 50 per cent. If doffers 9 inches in
diameter running 20 revolutions a minute and
taking off 300 pounds of stock a day are ex-
changed for doffers 12 inches in diameter and
running 20 revolutions a minute, the produc-
tion would be increased to 450 pounds per
day, a gain of 50 per cent. The larger the
doffer the better the work as the cylinder has
more surface to lay the stock on. Rogers.
Changing- the number of ends from 36 to
54 will necessitate the use of narrower rings
and probably have the effect of crowding- the
cards in getting the heavy roving required for
5/8-run yarn. On horse blanket stock and
similar material, the top doffer will often col-
lect more stock than the bottom doffer, mak-
ing it necessary to run the former faster. To
get 54 ends the rings can be arranged as fol-
lows:
2 waste rings, 1 1/4 inch.
27 top rings, 13/16 inch.
27 bottom rings, 14/16 inch.
When using 1 1/2-inch waste rings it is ad-
visable instead of having a cotton or woolen
web on the Apperly to use a leather band
with wire set in for that purpose the width of
CARDING AND SPINNING 73
the webbing. The card will have to carry
more stock in supplying the narrow rings.
The ring doffers must be kept in good condi-
tion and points kept clear, by having dickeys
put on the rings or by having wire wipe rolls
set to the rings just so they will clear the
points. It is preferable to have these rolls
covered with a medium wire about 3/16 inch
long with a knee so that it will not stand up
straight. It is advisable to have the wire set
in leather.
In running the dickeys the surface speed
should be high enough to keep the points
clear without having to set hard on the rings.
If fancy wire is used on a 2-inch dickey with
a 12-inch doffer running 20 turns, it will be
necessary to run the dickey about 45 turns.
Ironside.
On the top doffer the use of 13 /16-inch
rings would be advisable, making a total
length 21 15/16 inches. On the bottom doffer
use 14/16-inch rings, making the total length
23 10/16 inches. This would leave about 1 1/4
inches for each waste end and 45 9/16 inches
for the 54 regular ends, or 27 ends to each
doffer. A 3 -spool stand will be required to
bring the roving on 3 spools of 18 ends each;
the center spool receiving 9 ends from each
doffer; this would necessitate an increase of
stock on the breakers.
.74 KINKS ON WOOL
In placing rings on the doffer the wide ring
must be put on the top doffer on the wide side
of the feed. Newport.
Variation Allowed in Spinning Wool Yarn
In working IOW T shoddy work, a stock con-
taining a large percentage of clean and dirty
card waste, the dirty card waste, however,
being thoroughly cleaned and dusted before
used, what variation would it be considered
fair to allow the carder on his yarns, taking,
for instance, 165 grains or 1 15/16 runs and
105 grains or 1 1/16 runs? We would also
like to have the same question answered in
regard to yarns ranging from 90 to 105 grains,
;and made of clean, low grade stocks which
contain either a small percentage of cotton or
wool as a basis.
In order that you may be able to judge bet-
ter and give a more accurate answer we give
you the following information regarding our
equipment: Our picker house is equipped with
-a Sargent duster and a Fearnaught picker, the
mixes being run through the picker three
times in order to insure proper mixing. The
oard room contains six sets of cards, practi-
cally new clothing on all, with Bramwell feeds
and Apperly feeds between the first and second
breakers, the second breaker and finisher
hitched together, and Barker rubs on finisher.
Carder (1989).
For the 165 grains, ten grains variation
would be the extreme. For the 105 grains,
eight grains ought to cover the variation. For
the clean stock, 90 to 105 grains, four or five
CARDING AND SPINNING 75
grains ought to be enough variation. In mak-
ing this statement I only estimate the varia-
tion at the card; the mule is not considered.
Lytton.
Production and Consumption of Wool
If you know of any statistics showing the
number of spindles in the world's wool indus-
try and the production and consumption of
wool will you kindly print them?
Record (2247).
An interesting estimate of the world's pro-
duction and consumption of wool appeared in
a recent issue of Dalgety's Review. The wool
spindles in all countries were given as follows:
England spindles 6,684,52b
Germany 5,084,069
France 3,078,013
Austria 850,000
United States 4,021,098
Belgium 656,677
Russia 800,000
Italy 250,000
Spain 150,000
Japan 400,000
Increase in former coun-
tries and number of
spindles in other coun-
tries ' 1,025,625
Total 23,000,008
ment on the wool consuming capacity of these
The Review then makes the following com-
spindles and the actual supply:
76 ' KINKS ON WOOL
In estimating 1,025,625 spindles, we take
into consideration an increase in spindles
throughout the entire world since 1907. Tak-
ing these 23,000,000 spindles in the whole
world, and assuming that each spindle pro-
duces about 1.32 Ibs. per week 23,000,000 X
1.32 Ibs. = 30,360,000 Ibs., and for 52 weeks
30,360,000 Ibs. X 52 = 1,578,720,000 Ibs.
It must not be forgotten, however, that in
these 1,578,720,000 Ibs. of yarns produced
there are a large number of carded yarns in
which cotton, silk, noils and waste enter in a
certain proportion. Supposing that 489,600,-
000 Ibs. of these yarns are produced with
wastes and other kinds of material. This
means that there is an annual production of
.1,089,120,000 Ibs. of combed yarns.
Taking then the production of greasy wool:
Pounds.
The Argentine produces about. . 584,000,000
Australia 1,102,000,000
Africa 160,000,000
Asia 216,000,000
Europe 811,000,000
North America 339,000,000
Total i 3,212,000,000
The average yield of thoroughly washed
wool can be stimated at 40 per cent, of 3,212,-
000,000 Ibs. or 1,284,800,000 Ibs. clean scoured
wool. It seems then that consumption i&
CARDING AND SPINNING 77
about equal to production after allowing for
the weight of the waste in the combing proc-
ess, viz., noils.
Size of Wire
Can you give us information or some sort of
a table showing the best card-clothing wire
for fine and coarse stock? Field (927).
The way the batches come along now in
most woolen card rooms makes it a hard task
to name just the right size wire that would be
best for general use. One batch may be a
nice, fine all-wool lot; the next may be a mix-
ture of very coarse wool and shoddy, and the
next of fine wool and shoddy, or it may be a
silk mix or a hair mix, etc. The carder hardly
knows what will go on next. If batches of the -
same quality could follow each other, much
better and more even roping could be made
and would save the carded a good deal of
trouble and much valuable time and waste
would be saved to the interest of the company.
When batches keep jumping from one run to
six runs and vice versa, it is no wonder there
is so much trouble with uneven roping.
When the carder has a set of cards on a
500-pound lot, 5-run warp running just to suit
him, the lot is nearly run out, and the next
lot may be 2 1/2-run coarse wool and shoddy
or some other kind much different from the
78 KINKS ON WOOL
5-run lot. I should recommend the following
scale and number of wire for a set of cards
for. general run of work:
FIRST BREAKER
Feed rolls, if not steel rings, which are de-
cidedly the best.
Feed rolls, top and bottom, No. 18 convex or
diamond point, straight steel wire.
Tumbler, No. 33 wire, steel.
First two workers, No. 32, the remainder
No. 34 .steel wire.
Strippers, No. 32, steel wire.
Cylinder, No. 33, the sheets steel wire
Doffer, No. 33, steel wire.
Fancy, No. 30, sheets or filleting, steel wire
SECOND BREAKER
Feed rolls, top and bottom for creels, No.
18, convex or diamond point straight steel
wire.
Leader-in, No. 24, diamond point steel wire.
Tumbler, No. 33, steel wire.
Two workers, No. 34, the remainder No. 35.
Strippers, No. 32.
Cylinder, No. 34, sheets.
Doffer, No. 34.
Fancy, No. 32, sheets or filleting.
FINISHER
Apperly feed rolls, No. 24 bottom, and No.
26 top, diamond point straight steel wire.
CARDING AND SPINNING 79
Leader-in, No. 24, diamond point steel wire.
Tumbler, No. 34.
First two workers, No. 35, the remainder
No. 36.
Strippers, No. 34.
Cylinder, No. 35, sheets.
Ring doffer, No. 35.
Fancy, No. 34, filleting.
CARD CLOTHING FOR A SET OF CARDS ON"
COARSE STOCK
If a set of cards is running" permanently on
coarse wool, or coarse wool and shoddy mixed,.
the numbers of wire should be:
FIRST BREAKER
Feed rolls, if not steel rings, No. 18, convex
wire.
Tumbler, No. 32.
Two workers, No. 30, the others No. 32.
Strippers, No. 30.
Cylinder sheets, No. 32.
Doffer, No. 32.
Fancy, No. 30.
SECOND BREAKER
Feed rolls, No. 18, convex or diamond point
wire, straight tooth.
Leader-in, No. 24.
Tumbler, No. 32, steel wire.
Workers, No. 33.
Strippers, No. 30.
8o KINKS ON WOOL
Cylinder, No. 33, sheets.
Fancy, No. 32, sheets or filleting.
Doffer, No. 33.
FINISHER
Bottom rolls Apperly feed, No. 18, convex
or diamond point wire, straight tooth.
Top rolls Apperly feed, No. 18, convex or
diamond point wire, straight tooth.
Leader-in, No. 24.
Tumbler, No. 34.
Workers, No. 34.
Strippers, No. 32.
Cylinder, No. 34, sheets.
Ring doffers, No. 34.
Fancy, No. 33, filleting.
Sam Driver.
Putting on Card Clothing
I would like information on putting on card
clothing as regards the apparatus required and
the method of doing the work.
Deary (1042).
It is necessary that every card room should
be provided with a suitable frame and drum
for winding on filleting. It is important that
it should be wound on with as even a tension
as possible. The frame should be made
strong and wide enough so that the bearings
of whatever is being covered will set firmly
in the bearings of the frame. Place collars
CARDING AND SPINNING QT
on the shafts so that when winding on fillet-
ing they will not vibrate. Bolt on the frame
a slotted bracket with a long stud and a small
gear, with crank attached. Place a large gear
on the shaft of whatever is to be covered, and
gear into the small gear. By winding this
way a much steadier motion and more even
tension can be had than with a crank at-
tached to the end of the shaft.
The drum, if for a 48-inch card with doffer
48 by 30, should be made 54 inches wide and
31 inches in diameter. The drum must be
turned off true and smooth so that the backs
of the card teeth will not get bulged. A stout
frame must be built for the drum and bolted
to the floor.
A piece of belt 1 1/2 inches wide, with small
clamp attached, can be fastened to one end
of the drum, another belt can be fastened on
the floor on the other end and brought over
the drum for friction. Some have the drum
placed in front of the grinding frame, with a
suitable bearing to bolt on the frame. When
putting on filleting it should be wound on the
drum quite tight. This will press and keep
the backs of card wire in their proper place.
The roll must be turned with a steady and
even motion to keep an even tension.
The clothing should be wound on as tight as
it will bear; if not, it will be apt to get loose
82 KINKS ON WOOL
and strike the cylinder and cause bad work
and be a source of trouble all the time.
D. R. S.
Speed and Size of Pulleys
Please give me a simple rule for calculating
the speed and size of direct connected pulleys?
Manitoba (450).
Suppose two pulleys, A and B, are con-
nected by a belt. Then:
Diam. of A X speed of A = diam. of B X
speed of B.
Prom this it follows that:
Diam. of A = (diam. of B X speed of B) -=-
speed A.
Also that:
Speed of A = (diam. of B X speed of B) -r-
diam. of A.
Ex. A 12-inch pulley running 150 r. p. m.
drives another pulley 225 r. p. m.
Find the size of the last named pulley.
(12 X 150) -r- 225 = 8 inches, diam. of
pulley running 225 r. p. m.
Ex. A 15-inch pulley running 80 r. p. m.
drives a 10-inch pulley. Find the speed of the
last-named pulley.
(15 X 80) -T- 10 = 120 r. p. m. of 10-inch
pulley.
The circumference may be used in place of
the diameter if desired.
CARDING AND SPINNING 83
Core Yarn
Recently we have tried some experiments
with a yarn composed of a cotton thread with
a wool covering. These have not been wholly
successful and if you have any information
bearing on this work will you let me know
how it should be done?
Burlington (2262).
There is no novelty in the idea of making
wool yarn with a cotton core. As far back
as 1878 two Leeds men patented provision-
ally a process for "embedding by rolling or
otherwise an additional twisted thread in an
unspun condenser sliver, the combined thread
being wound upon a bobbin without any
twist and used as a weft in weaving soft and
strong fabrics." In 1901 two Halifax (Eng.)
men took out a patent for a yarn consisting
of "a sliver from a condenser rubbed round a
core of cotton, the combined thread being
wound on a condenser bobbin and spun in the
ordinary way." There have also been pat-
ented schemes for covering a core of twisted
paper with wool in a similar manner and for
making cotton core yarn by drawing the cot-
ton thread diagonally across the rings of the^
ring doffers, in place of running the thread
and sliver side by side. There have been
plenty of other attempts made in Yorkshire
and yarns produced in this manner have been
seen and tried often. Twenty years ago a
84 KINKS ON WOOL
great many woolen men were puzzling over
the problem of how to do away with the ne-
cessity for a separate twisting of the cotton
and the wool, but the twisting method is prac-
tically universal today. Cotton is very exten-
sively used as a supporting thread in the
cheap carded woolens made in the Colne Val-
ley. It is not used as a core, but as a tie
thread. The wool sliver is spun on the mule
cop and the two are brought together upon
the ring twisting frame.
Following are the experiences of two emi-
nently practical men in making core yarn:
Says A: The two ways I remember were:
"1st. Cotton spools placed under the con-
denser, the ends being led through the divider
with the soft sliver. Thread and sliver were
rubbed together and run on the bobbins in the
usual way.
"2d. The condenser bobbins were taken
direct to the twisting frame and the soft
sliver was twisted with the cotton thread.
"Both methods were failures because a
woolen thread is no good unless it is drawn
during spinning."
Says B: "The drawback to running the cot-
ton and woolen threads together on the mule
is that you cannot draw the woolen when the
cotton passes through the rollers at the same
time. You do not get as nice or as strong a
yarn as one that is drawn a little in the spin-
CARDING AND SPINNING
ning. Another fault is that there is too much
space on the mule between the rollers and the
spindle top, consequently the yarn has a tend-
ency to show soft places owing to the greater
thickness and heaviness of the woolen."
The theoretical purpose of using the cotton
as a core instead of a companion thread is to
make the former less conspicuous in the fin-
ished cloth. I send a sample or two of Colne
Valley tweed to correct any impression that a
two-fold cotton and woolen thread necessarily
proclaims its character upon the surface. It
will be agreed by anyone that whether judged
by touch or sight the cotton support is well
hidden in the softer cloth.
"Twisting is an extra," to continue my quo-
tation from A, "but that is done very cheaply
and the thread is good in every way. You can
mill the cloth to get a good cover, raise it if
necessary and use it pretty roughly and still
have a sound piece of goods. Or you can
alter your blend and ideas. You can make
the cotton thread light in color and get fine
worsted-twist-looking patterns in another
finish."
Seeking further experiences of the produc-
tion of cotton core yarn I turned to the paten-
tee of a process for wrapping an untwisted
worsted sliver spirally round a central thread
of cotton. The work was done on an ordinary
flyer drawing and twisting frame, permitting
86 KINKS ON WOOL
the sliver to be reduced to the desired thin-
ness. The cotton was led through the nip of
the front drawing rollers to one side of the
untwisted sliver and was then drawn diagon-
ally across the front of the rollers, close to
the nip and thence down to the spindles. The
path of the cotton was kept close to the nip to
avoid twisting the worsted, the intention be-
liind the whole operation being the production
of a yarn which should not shrink unequally
and raise knots and lumps in the fabric under
the hands of the cloth finisher. The patent
has been allowed to lapse, but as Mr. Brog-
den's experience may be useful, I explain that
the object of the experiment was the produc-
tion of khaki cotton-faced drills with a wool
back. The worsted sliver used was fine me-
rino and the cotton core a good Egyptian.
The warp of the cloth was Egyptian cotton
also and without great difficulty a smart cot-
ton-faced khaki drill fulfilling Government
tests was produced. The maker was conscious
of certain defects in the fabric and the Gov-
ernment experts found these out. The avoid-
ance of twist in the sliver did not entirely pre-
vent inequality of shrinkage. Worse still, the
wool back did not wear well. Where creases
were formed in wear the sliver was soon
rubbed off the filling, leaving thin streaks in
the garment. It is not improbable that carded
woolen sliver which has only been rubbed on
CARDING AND SPINNING 87
a cotton core will also soon be rubbed off and
the contingency deserves to be reckoned with
and observed.
Pushing inquiry further afield, I sought the
advice of a silk man who in his own time has
been a bold experimenter. He had heard of a
process, applied to silk and not necessarily in-
applicable to wool, in which a silk roving was
twisted round a cotton thread upon a twisting
frame. Two rollers were used, one delivering
silk, one cotton, the silk coming the faster.
The two were passed to a spindle having a
double flyer and set at such an angle that only
the roving came in contact with the cotton at
the point at which the bobbin was practically
reached. He had examined also a collection
of samples in which thrown silk had been
twisted round a cotton core to make a sort of
"rolled-gold" silk poplin and in which also
thrown silk was twisted around flexible wire
to make onde and spiral effects. It is clear
that the production of core yarn has attracted
notice in widely different directions. To name
one other, one might refer casually to the dif-
ferent means taken for producing ropes with
cores of steel or strong fibrous materials.
James Strand.
Broken Drawing on Breakers
Can you give me a reason for broken draw-
ing on the breakers? Foss (959).
OS KINKS ON WOOL
There are many causes for the breaking of
drawings. The doffer may be running too
fast, in which case a reduction of speed would
be to the advantage of the work and would
also tend to increase the strength of the draw-
ing. The doffer comb may have been striking
and been worn rough or it may need cleaning.
Drawing may also break by being stripped too-
far below the center of the doffer. This may
be remedied by raising the stroke of the comb.
Sometimes the drawing breaks down from
too great a draft on the side drawing, in which
case the end drawing will break as it leaves
the doffer on the farthest end from the draw-
ing rolls. Remedy: reduce the speed of the
rolls. If the doffer gets dull, rough or out of
true, the drawing will break down.
There are various ways of supporting the
drawing as it passes to the rolls. On low stock
it is a good idea to place a narrow apron
under the comb, the same as for the Kershaw
and Scotch feeds, and driven from the side
drawing shaft.
Sometimes the short and long stock is not
blended and picked right; this often causes
a breaking of the drawing. Too heavy a feed
making the drawing heavier at times than at
others may be the cause. The comb may be
too high or too low, too fast or too slow. Have
good stripper belts and keep them tight and
clean. When the side drawing breaks down
CARDING AND SPINNING 89
often extra work and waste results. Too much
waste in the feed is another cause; also the
stock getting too low or too high. If the draw-
ing- falls down raise the comb; if it pulls too
tight, lower the comb. The center of the
stroke of the comb should be a little above
the center of the doffer. On long stock it is
sometimes necessary to have a longer down-
stroke and on short stock a longer up-stroke.
Set the comb as close to the doffer as it can
be and not strike, and keep the comb teeth
free from grease.
All kinds of supports are used to keep the
drawing from falling 1 down, such as cone-
shaped cylinders placed under the comb, wire
and broomstick supports from the floor to
comb, and many other contrivances. If the
stock is really too low and short to make good
drawing it is best to bring the first and second
breakers together and place a short endless
slat apron between after the fashion of the
Blamire feed. Sam Driver.
Blending and Oiling
Can you give me the method of blending
and oiling three lots of wool; viz., No. 1 blend;
500 Ibs. of all-wool Saxony, Australian or No.
1 Ohio fleece, spun to 10 run; No. 2 blend, 500
Ibs. of coarse wool; No. 3 blend, Oxford Mix,
500 Ibs., composed of 125 Ibs. black wool, 125
Ibs. white pulled wool, 250 Ibs. black shoddy?
Deering (1068).
9O KINKS ON WOOL
Carders as well as superintendents have a
tendency to overlook the importance and value
in this department of having their batches
blended and oiled as they should be. Too
much emphasis cannot be laid on the import-
ance of having the batches properly blended
and oiled to make good carding and spinning.
Carders should watch with great interest this
part of the operation for their own benefit, as
well as for the company's.
PINE WOOL
No. 1 blend: 500 Ibs. all- wool Saxony, Aus-
tralian or No. 1 Ohio fleece, spun 10 run. We
will first run it through the wool duster and
then through the burr picker. Lay down in
five layers. To each layer spread on 8 qts. of
oil (olive oil would be best). Beat down each
layer with a pole. When through blending,
run through the picker twice, feeding light
and mixing well in gauze room. It is now
ready to sheet up. Let it lie four days in the
sheets before going to the cards. When ready
for the cards run through picker once. Eight
quarts of oil to 100 Ibs. No water.
COARSE WOOL
No. 2 blend: 500 Ibs. of coarse wool run
through duster and burr picker and laid down
in five layers. To each layer spread on 4 qts.
>of oil and 10 qts. of water. Pole each layer.
CARDING AND SPINNING QI
Kun through picker twice. Four quarts of oil,
10 qts. of water to 100 Ibs.
No. 3 blend: Oxford mix; 500 Ibs. batch
wool and shoddy, 125 Ibs. black wool, 125 Ibs.
white pulled wool, 250 Ibs. black shoddy.
Fifteen quarts of oil, 20 qts. water. This is
allowing 1 6 qts. of oil to 100 Ibs. of wool and
8 qts. of water to 100 Ibs. of wool; nothing for
shoddy. If desirable, more oil and water can
be added. Mix black and white wool together
and run through wool duster and burr picker.
Run the shoddy through mixing picker. Make
five layers of wool and five layers of shoddy.
First layer of wool put on 3 qts. of oil and 4
qts. of water. Beat well with pole. Then put
on layer of shoddy; beat with pole. Next, a
layer of wool and then a layer of shoddy alter-
nately until finished. In feeding, take top to
bottom of pile. Feed on light and run through
the picker three times, mixing well every time
You will notice that I do not put any oil or
water on the shoddy, but put it on the wool.
I will give my reasons for doing so: First, the
shoddy has already received enough oil dur-
ing the process of manufacturing. Second, it
will not fill and gum the cylinder and doffer
wire with flocks and fine dust. Third, the
cards will run longer without stripping.
Fourth, it makes more even, smoother and
stronger yarn, and it cards and spins better.
The same rule for the blending and oiling
92 KINKS ON WOOL
of this batch can be applied to any percent-
age of wool and shoddy. To those using- emul-
sions, the same percentage of oil and water
can be used and batches laid down the same
way, but keep the emulsions from getting on
the shoddy and cotton as much as possible.
Sam Driver.
Preparing White Wool for Mixtures
I would like information on the method of
preparing white wool for mixtures.
W. W. (986).
When white wool is mixed with black in the
raw state the mixture has a better appearance
if the white retains a part of its natural yellow
shade. Bleached white makes the mixture
look harsh when mixed with black, on account
of the sharp contrast. Moreover bleaching is
expensive. Various methods have been intro-
duced to displace bleaching by removing a
portion of the yellow shade of the fiber,
among them being the following:
1. For 100 pounds of wool, 1 1/2 pounds
of oxalic acid and 1 pound of sulphuric acid
66 Be., are dissolved separately, then added to-
2,000 pounds of water at 120 F. When start-
ing the bath it is advisable to add double the
quantities named. The wool is then entered
and at the end of 35 or 40 minutes the yellow
shade will be largely removed. The wool is
then taken out and rinsed several times.
CARDING AND SPINNING 93
2. For 100 pounds of wool 1 1/4 pounds of
chloride of tin and 1 pound of hydrochloric
acid are dissolved in water and then added to
the bath, which is heated to 165 F. and 1/4
to 4/10 of a pound of sulphate of indigo paste
added. The dyer must regulate the amount of
indigo to suit the requirements of each case.
The wool is worked in this bath for one hour.
3. For 100 pounds of wool 1/4 to 4/10 of
a pound of Prussian blue is dissolved with
four times the quantity of oxalic acid, forming
a concentrated solution. This is added to the
bath with 13 to 14 pounds of sulphate of soda.
The wool is worked from three-quarters to
one hour at 150 F.
4. For 100 pounds of wool 1/4 to 1/2 an
ounce of Formyl Violet S 4 B, 1/2 pound of
acetic acid (increased if the water contains
lime) and 4 pounds of sulphate of soda are
dissolved in the bath in which the wool is
worked at 160 F.
5. This is process 4 with 1 to 1 1/2 ounces
of cyanole extra added to the bath.
6. The wool is worked in a bath of bisul-
phite of soda at 2 Be. at a temperature of
100 F., to which is added 1/3 of an ounce of
methylene blue. The wool is worked for one
liour, then taken out and rinsed. Any of the
above methods will leave the wool in good
condition for mixes, and all have the advan-
tage of simplicity. P. Hoffman.
94 KINKS ON WOOL
Density of Baled Wool
What is the density of Bagdad wool as im-
ported in bales? How does its weight com-
pare with that of water?
Douglass (2081).
A cubic foot of water weighs 1,000 ounces
or 62 1/2 pounds. A bale of Bagdad wool re-
cently imported measured 51 inches long, 17
inches wide and 17 inches thick; cubic con-
tents, 14,739 cubic inches. The gross weight
was 360 pounds, equal to 675 ounces, or 42
pounds per cubic foot. The weight of this
bale was 32 1/2 per cent, less than that of
water.
Core Yarn
In looking over the articles on core yarn
contained in the March and April issues it
occurred to me that your readers would be
interested in additional particulars regarding
this process. The cotton core is first wound
on the regular roping spools and fastened on
a frame work at the back of the card just
above the rub rolls. A guide is placed near
the doffing cylinder with guide eyes set so as to
deliver the core in center of the doffer rings.
The core is started between the wipe roll and
doffer, carried back to roping spool, and de-
livered in the center of the doffer rings.
When going through the rub rolls the cov-
ering is rolled around the core in such a man-
CARDING AND SPINNING 95
ner that the core is almost completely hidden.
Two of these threads are then twisted to-
gether. An improved method consists in de-
livering two ends to the doffing rings as near
the center at possible and about 3/16 to 1/4
inch apart. When rubbed together the
threads of the core are embedded so well in
the fibers that when twisted either on a mule
or twister the covering will not strip. This
makes the thread almost if not altogether like
all wool. This process has eliminated the
trouble of stripping which was the result of
yarn made with a single core.
There is another process called the "double
covered" which is made by taking only one
spool from the card instead of two. The yarn
coming from the top condenser is taken;
through and under, and again delivered to the-
bottom roll, thereby getting a second covering.
This latter process is the best for heavy stocks,
as the covering is more even than that made
by the single covered process. I have seen
core yarn made and used for both warp and
filing in woven goods and which did not strip
when used as warp.
The finishing or twisting of the yarn from
the card is best done on a twister, but can
also be done on a mule. It is almost neces-
sary to use a doubling twist scroll, as the or-
dinary scroll gives too much twist for ordi-
nary knitting yarn. Garhwal.
g KINKS ON WOOL
Winding-Tinder on Woolen Mules
In regard to winding-under on woolen
mules, I would like to state a few practical
points worked out in my experience in the
mule room. A high spot in the tracks will
cause winding under. When the mule backs
off, the faller locks and rests on a stud con-
nected with the builder-arm, which has a roll
connected on the end that runs on the builder
rail. If all the parts are in perfect order so
that there is no lost motion, the faller can
wind only to a given point up or down. If the
backing off chain is too long, allowing the
mule to unwind too much yarn when backing
off, the faller will dip and cause the yarn to
wind under. The faller fingers may be out of
line. Some of them may be too low. There
may be a high place in the track so that the
carriage is forced up a little, causing the faller
to dip just enough to wind under, especially if
there is a large shoulder or seat on the bottom
of the bobbin. If there is a low place in the
track it will cause a more open wind on the
bobbin and a longer build. The front builder
shoe may not be set right, the builder rail
dwelling too long on top of the shoe before
starting down the incline of the shoe or
shaper, as it is sometimes called.
Woolen Spinner
INDEX
PAGE
Apperly Feed, Fine Ends on 49
Balancing Solutions 24
Belgium System of Wool Carding 47
Bleached Wool for Mixtures 92
Blending and Oiling 89
Bobbins and Cops, Soft Noses on 34,36
Broken Drawing on Breakers 87
Burr Picking and Carbonizing 13
Calculating Pulleys and Speeds 82
Calculating Weight of Sliver 17
Carbonizing 13, 29, 46
Card Clothing, Putting on 80
Card Clothing Wire for Fine and Coarse Stock 77
Card for Sample Mixing 11
Carding Shoddy 9
Causes of Uneven Roping 18,- 30
Changing Ring Doffers 69
Coarse Stock, Changing to 23
Core Yarn 83, 94
Cotton Mixes '. 17
Cylinder, Speed of '.'.' 9
Density of Baled Wool 94
Difficulty with Rub Rolls on Coarse Wool 27
Draft at the Mule 21
Dressing for Rub Aprons 28
Drying after Carbonizing 14
Dyeing and Carbonizing in One Operation 29
Emery Cloth on Traverse Grinder 52
Equipment and Operation of Carbonizing Plant 13
Equivalent Numbers of Yarn 69
Even and Uneven Roving 18
Fancy, Reclothing 23
Feed Rolls 32
.f ioers, Testing 58
Fine Ends of Feed 49
Fleeced Shoddy 66
Grinding, Settings and Care of Cards 52
Horse Power of a Waterfall 39
How to Mix Wool and Shoddy . ... 64
How Twits are Made 53
Lumps in Yarn 19
Matching Mixtures 10
Mixing Cotton, Wool and Shoddy 67
9 8
INDEX
PAGE
Mixing Wool a,nd Shwlrty 64
Mules, Winding- Under on 55
Neppy Yarn in Cotton Mixes 17
Number of Wool Spindles in World 75
Numbering Yarn 69
Nubs Forming on Card 11
Nub Yarns 26, 59
Oiling and Blending 89
Oiling Different Kinds of Stock 33
Operatives Needed for Ten-Set Mill 42
Picker, Setting 46
Preparing White Wool for Mixtures 92
Production and Consumption of Wool 75
Production of Woolen Card 41, 71
Putting on Card Clothing 80
Quadrant, Setting , 35, 36
Qualitative Tests for Fibers 58
Kandom Roping 64
Ring Doffers, Changing 69
Rowy Goods 66
Rub Rolls, Setting and Care of 27
Betting Cards for Nubs 26, 59, 63
Setting Mixing Picker 46
ISetthi'g Mule 34, 36, 56
Setting Workers and Strippers 50
Shoddy 9, 64
Size of Wire 77
Sliver, Weight of 17
Soap and Oil Solution 24
Soft Noses on Bobbins and Cops 34, 36
Speed and Size of Pulleys 82
Ten-Set Mill, Number of Hands Needed 42
Testing for Soap or Alkali in Waste Liquor 3
Testing Grease Wool to Determine Shrinkage . . 56
Trouble in Carding Shoddy 9
Twist in Lumpy Yarn 20
Twisted Rolls in Carding n
Twits in Carding and Spinning 53
Uneven Roving , 18, 30
Variation Allowed in Spinning Wool Yarn 74
Vigogne Yarn 22
Waterfall, Flow and Power 39
White Wool for Mixtures 92
"Winding Under on Mules 55, 96
Wire for Cards 54
Wire, Size of 77
Wool, Density of Baled 94
Wool Dryer 15
Wool Yarn with Cotton Core 83
Workers and Strippers, Setting 50
Yarn Numbering 69
McBride
System of Carding
Rotary
Cloth Finishing
Press
Woonsocket
Machine and Press Go.
Woonsocfcet, R. I.
1880
1912
have
been
used on
all
grades
and
kinds of
woolen"
goods
for
thirty
two
years
Mills that adopted them when first
introduced are using them now con-
clusive proof of unusual merit.
Let us send a represen-
tative to discuss with you
the grade of BRETON
OIL FOR WOOL best
suited to your conditions.
BORNE, SCRYMSER COMPANY
80 South Street, New York
Boston
Fall River Philadelphia
Works, Claremont, N. J.
Rome Soap Mfg. Co.
ROME, N. Y.
Olive Oils
Red Oils, Wool Oils
Wool Scouring Soaps
Am. Potashes and
Specialties
STAMPED BELOW
AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS
WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH
DAY AND TO $I.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY
OVERDUE.
9
stf
V
YA 08276
271655
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
. la. Sargent's Sons Corporation
Graniteville, Mass.
