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KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


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B.  H.   HOSSACK 

Craigiefiblo,  Kirkwall 


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ICIRKWALL 

WILLIAM    PEACE    &    SON 

1900 


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PREFACE. 


ji(i\'^HE  main  object  of  this  book  is  to  keep  alive  the  memories  of  some  of  the  people 
whose  names  are  associated  with  the  history  of  our  ancient  Burgh,  and  who  have 

?left  in  its  records  a  local  reputation.     To  accomplish  this  end  in  a  systematic 
manner,  it  has  seemed  best  to  associate  the  persons  with  the  houses  in  which 
)       they  lived. 

C  In  a  few  cases  it  is  difficult  to  fix  the  site  of  an  ancient  dwelling.    Long  ago, 

with  comparatively  few  inhabitants,  Kirkwall  could  allow  each  house  a  kail-yard  and  a 
peat-brae ;  but,  as  population  increased,  these  spaces  were  built  upon,  making  it  anything 
but  easy  to  dissect  out  the  position  of  the  original  dwelling. 

In  seeking  information  about  our  old  tenements,  the  writer  has  persistently  worried 
present  proprietors,  from  the  Shore  to  the  Head  of  the  town,  and  he  has  to  thank  them 
all  for  their  courteous  and  kindly  help. 

Our  Kecords  of  Sasine,  which  date  from  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  show 
the  changes  of  ownership  since  that  time,  and  in  some  instances,  by  the  use  of  a  name 
which  "of  old"  was  borne  by  a  particular  tenement,  a  ray  of  light  is  cast  upon  that 
house  which  enables  us  to  go  back  upon  its  story,  perhaps  a  century  and  a  half  previous 
to  the  event  recorded. 

Family  papers,  public  documents,  such  as  Town  Council  minutes.  Session  records, 
Sheriff  Court  books,  and  diaries,  notably  that  of  Thomas  Brown,  give  us  an  insight  into 
the  lives  and  conduct  of  our  forebears.  In  making  use  of  such  papers,  a  writer  is  often 
led  to  chronicle  very  small  beer  indeed ;  but,  in  a  little  community  like  ours,  the  authenti- 
cated gossip  of  two  centuries  ago  forms  to-day  an  important  contribution  to  our  social 
history. 

In  the  following  pages,  with  the  exception  of  public  buildings,  the  old  part  of  the 
town  alone  is  dealt  with,  and  the  very  attractive  period,  where  memory  merges  into 
tradition,  is  left  untouched.    Old  memories  are  treacherous,  and  tradition  unreliable. 

The  writer  begs  to  thank  the  many  friends,  too  numerous  to  name,  in  Orkney  and 
in  the  South,  who  have  kindly  given  him  assistance. 

CsAioiBFiELD,  Srd  December  1900. 


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CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. -INTRODUCTORY. 

Agrioola's  Voyage— The  Qrcades — Old  References— Mission  of  PAlladius— Corinac's  Mission — 
Position  of  Kirkwall— Hound  Towers — Coming  of  the  Vikings — Harald  of  Norway — his 
Invasion — Extinction  of  Christianity  in  the  Islands — Reintroduction — Norwegian  Earls 
— Brusison's  Church  in  Kirkwall— St.  Olaf s— Thorfinn's  in  Birsay— Christ's  Kirk— Earl 
Magnus — his  Death — Earl  Hakon — Rognwald  II. — his  Vow — Swein  of  Gairsay — Bishop 
William  the  Old— his  Pilgrimage— the  Three  Earls— Erlend's  Death— Feuds— Ronald's 
Death — Harald  and  Swein — Swein's  Death — the  Angus  Earls — the  Annual  of  Norway 
— Stratheme  Line — St.  Clairs — Kirkwall  Castle I 

CHAPTER  II.— THE  CASTLE. 

Scandinavian  Kingdoms  United — Court  of  Earl  Henry  II. — Capture  of  Prince  James  of  Scotland 
—Earl  William— Bishop  Thomas  Tuiloch's  **  Diploma"— Bishop  William  Tulloch— his 
Imprisonment  by  William  the  Waster—  Marriage  of  James  III.  and  Margaret  of  Den- 
mark— Impignoration  of  the  Islands — St.  Clair  Estates  Confiscated — Father  Hay's 
Account  of  the  St.  Clairs — Bishop  Andrew — the  Burgh  Charter — Sir  James  Sinclair — 
Battle  of  Summerdale — Visit  of  James  V. — Oliver  Sinclair — James  Hepburn,  Duke  of 
Orkney— Gilbert  Balfour— Earl  Robert— Earl  Patrick— Earl's  Palace  built— Bishop  Law 
— Siege  and  Demolition  of  Kirkwall  Castle 15- 

CHAPTER  IIL— THE  CATHEDRAL. 

Rognwald's  Vow — Site  of  Cathedral — Kol's  Work — Remains  of  St.  Magnus  removed  from  Birsay 
— See  transferred  to  Kirkwall — Cardinal  Nicolas — Dimensions  of  the  Cathedral  as  first 
Designed — Bishop  Stewart's  Addition — Bishop  Reid's — Marwick's  Hole — Sir  Henry 
Dry  den's  Description — Masons'  **  Marks  " — the  Spire— the  Pyramid— Cowper's  Ha' — the 
Bells — Bishop  Maxwell's  Gift — the  Clock — Communion  Cups — Collection  Plates — 
Upkeep  of  the  Building — the  Meason  Bequest — Town  Council's  Neglect  .        .        .     2& 

CHAPTER  IV.— THE  CHURCH. 

Cathedral  Altars  and  Endowments— Masters  of  Grammar  School  and  Sang  School — Screen — 
Lofts :  Grahams',  Dicks',  Magistrates',  Sailors',  Scholars',  Strangers',  St.  Clairs', 
Stewarts'  Lofts— Pulpit— Pews— Earl's  Seat — Stalls— Disputes  over  Sittings — Church 
White-washed — Ministers — Readers — Desecration 3^ 

CHAPTER  v.— CATHEDRAL  AS  BURIAL-PLACE. 

Relics  of  St.  Magnus — Earl  Erlend  buried — William  the  Old— Earl  Ronald — Margaret,  Maid  of 
Norway — Bishop  Tuiloch's  Tomb— Captain  Patricio — *'  El  Gran  Grifon"  Wrecked  on 


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Xll  CONTENTS. 

Fair  Isle — William  Henryson's  Tom))stone — Burial- Place  of  Earl  Robert  Stewart — of 
Lord  Adam — William,  Earl  of  Morton — Bishop  Honyman — Bishop  Mackenzie — Craigie's 
Burial-place— Covingtrie's— Recessed  Arch— Tombstones  of  Irving  of  Sabay  and  others 
— Nicolson's  Mort-brod — a  Son  Sells  his  Father's  Tombstone— Dr  Baikie's  Cenotaph — 
Dr  Rae's  Monument 49 

CHAPTER  VI. -THE  BISHOP'S  PALACE. 

Early  Bishops  ot  Orkney — Rjarui  the  Scald — Lay  of  the  Jomsburg  Vikings — Bishop  Henry  I. — 
Haco*s  Expedition— Battle  of  Largs— Haco's  Death— Troubles  of  Bishop  William  III. — 
Bishop  Thomas  TuUoch  gets  the  Secular  Government  of  Orkney —his  "Diploma" — 
William  TuUoch — Encroachments  on  the  Royal  Revenue — Bishop  Stewart— Bishop 
Thomas'  Endowment — Bishop  Maxwell — Visit  of  James  V. — Bishop  Reid — his  Missions 
to  France  —  Death  of  Queen  Magdalen  —  Mournings  First  Worn  in  Scotland — Reid 
Reorganises  the  Cathedral  StaflF — his  Death— his  Monument— English  Fleet  sent  to 
Orkney — Bishop  Both  well — Reformation — Square  Tower — Water  Gate    .         .         .         ,58 

CHAPTER  VII.— THE  EARL'S  PALACE. 

Earl  Patrick's  Palace — Scott's  Description — Palace  given  to  the  Bishops — Bishop  La W;— Apostolic 
Succession — Excambion  between  King  and  Bishop — Law  saves  the  Cathedral — Bishop 
Graham — his  Deposition— TuUoch  of  Langskaill— Graham  acquires  Breckness — Graham's 
W'ife — their  Sous — Bishop  Baron — Morton  gets  the  Earldom — Rents  the  Palace — 
An-ival  of  Montrose— his  Defeat  and  Execution — Letter  of  the  Orkney  Ministers  to 
Montrose — Archbishop  Sharpe— Bishop  Sydserff — Bishop  Honyman — Bishop  Mackenzie 
— the  Bishop  Cup — Marriages  of  Bishop's  Daughters — Bishop  Bruce — Elphinston  of 
Lopness — Menzies  of  Raws— Douglas  of  Egilshay  and  others,  Tacksmen  of  the  Bishopric 
— Slates  from  Lord  Morton's  House — Memorial  regarding  Ruins  of  Palace       .         .         .73 

CHAPTER  VIII. —TOWN  HALL. 

**  Up-the-Gates"  and  **  Down- the- Gates  " — Early  Provosts— **  The  House  called  Tountgar" — 
Parliament  Close— Kirkwall  sends  Commissioner  to  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs — 
Orkney  **to  bruicke  its  awen  Lawes" — comes  under  Scots  Law — a  Tolbooth  acquired — 
the  *' Ridgeland" — Escapes  from  Tolbooth — Langirons  —  Deaths  in  ToUM)oth — Long 
Impnsonrnents  —  Burgess  Tickets  —  Unfree  Traders  —  Complimentary  Tickets — Dis- 
tinguished Burgesses  —  Elections  for  the  Northern  Burghs — Fox  Elected  —  Dispute 
between  Kirkwall  and  Stromness — Riding  the  Marches — Gow  the  Pirate — a  New 
Tolbooth — Assemblies— Extinct  Trades — New  Town  Hall— Council  Reconstituted  .         .     96 

CHAPTER  IX.— THE  STREETS  :  SHORE  AND  RAMPARTS. 

Threefold  Division  of  Kirkwall — Shore  Street — Butter  Storehouse— Tounigar — Gockhall — Queen's 
Hotel— the  Ramparts — Townspeople  Armed  —  House  **of  old  called  the  Inns" — its 
Builder  and  Occupants— Orkney  Golf  Club — Girnell  House — Traill  of  Elsness— Traill's 
Folly— the  Pier— Old  Time  Shipping— New  Pier 117 

CHAPTER  X.— BRIDGE  STREET. 

Bridge  Street — Rev.  George  Spence — ScoUay's  Inn — Scott's  Visit — House  of  Captain  Leask, 
afterwards  Dr  Logic's — John  and  David  Covingtrie — Rev.  Thomas  Covingtrie — Com- 
mercial Bank  Agency  Established — Craigie  of  Gairsay — Captain  Peter  W^inchester — 
William  Patterson,  Surgeon — William  Watt  Bain — his  Death 133 


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CONTENTS.  Xlll 

CHAPTER  XI. -BRIDGE  STREET,  EAST  SIDE. 

John  Cuthbert — John  Curaiter — Clickimin — the  Fea  Family — the  Forty -five-Burnintf  of  the 
House  of  Sound— the  Kelp  Industry— the  "Kelp  Riot"— the  Piper's  House— Piper's 
Memorial— Irving  of  Sabay's  House — Sinclairs  of  Sal>ay — Walter  Fcanie,  Litster — Rev. 
John  Wilson— Interference  in  Church  Matters  l>y  Rol)ert  Elphinston— Wm.  Traill, 
Treasurer— Town  Council  Convivialities — Sir  James  Sinclair  of  Mey — Anchor  Close — the 
Gallery — Kennedies  of  Stroma — their  Tomb — Gallery  rebuilt  by  James  Traill  of  Wood- 
wick — George  William  Traill — General  Burroughs— St.  Ola's  Church — the  Poor  House- 
Poor  House,  Business  Premises — the  Dishington  Family — Letter  of  Sir  Hew  Dairy mple 
— "Old  Guard-House  Yard  "—"Lang  Stean"—Hempow— the  Burgh      .         .         .         .144 

CHAPTER  XII.— BRIDGE  TO  LONG  GUTTER. 

The  "  Midtown  " — Long  Gutter — the  Drummonds,  weavers — John  White's  Close —Brouns  of 
Weyland — Sinclairs  of  Campstane— Rev.  James  Wallace — his  "  Description  of  Orkney  " 
— Liddells  of  Hammer— the  "Cros^  House  "—an  Election  of  the  Council  reduced — ^Traill 
of  Frotoft— the  W^att  Family — Alexander  Geddes,  Skipper  and  Bailie — Traill  of  Quen- 
dale,  Provost — the  Dowcot — Parliament  Close — Buchanan  of  Sound — the  Kaas — 
Warren's  Walk 16» 

CHAPTER  XIII.-LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND. 

Baikie  of  Burness — William  Laughton — Town  Borrows  from  Laughton — Hell  and  Purgatory — 
Sinclair  of  Essenquoy — "  A  Drunken  Orkney  Asse" — Edward  Cock — Stainigair's  Land 
— Wilson  of  Hunclet — Davidson's  Land — Dr  Fea's  Account  of  Orkney — Strang  of 
Lopness  —  Arthur  Buchanan — Margaret  Buxtoun  —  Elspet  Ballenden's  Lapse — the 
"Meikle"  Kirk3''ard — Andrew  Ross — the  Lindsays — the  Linen  Trade— the  Groats — 
Vaccination — **  Brassy  " — the  Union  Bank — Reward  for  Shooting  an  Eagle — Duke  of 
Clarence  visits  Kirkwall — the  Broadfoots — Neill's  **Tour" — Mounthoolie — the  Balfours 
— Moncrieff  of  Rapness — Orhiey  Herald — Heddles  of  Cletts  and  of  Melsetter — Henrysons 
of  Holland — Youngs  of  Castleyards — Riddochs — PoUexfens- Stewarts  of  Burray     .         .  18S 

CHAPTER  XIV.— BROAD  STREET. 

Earl  Patrick's  Blacksmiths— Bess  Hoy — Captain  Knightson — Graham  and  Baikie  Mutual  Assault 
— the  South  Blockhonse — Fleshmarket — Morrison's  Houses  in  the  Strynd — Castle  Hotel — 
Laverock — Bishop  Reid's  Chapter— the  Provostrie — the  Halcro  Family — the  Dicks — the 
Thesaurie — the  Sub-chantry — the  Archdeanery — ^Tankemess  House — Gilbert  Foulzie — 
the  Chancellor's  House — Sir  William  Dick  of  Braid — Andrew  Dick — Prince  Family — 
New  Town  Hall— Post  Office — the  Traills — Andrew  Ross — Harry  Erburie— the  Craigies 
—the  Baikies  of  Burness— Rev.  Thomas  Baikie  ousts  Mr  Wilson  from  the  Pulpit— 
Baikies  of  Tankerness— Arthur  Baikie— Monteith  of  Egilshay — Douglas  of  Spynie — the 
Glebe  —  the  Meeting-House  —  Struggle  between  Episcopacy  and  Presbyterianism — 
Banishments  to  Orkney — Mr  Sands  accused  of  Sheep- Stealing — Proclamation  of  James 
VIIL— Smythe  of  Braco 22S? 

CHAPTER  XV.— THE  GRAMMAR  SCHOOL. 

Grammar  School — Teachers — Endowments — Sang  School — Isbister  Mortification — Ba*  Money — 
Private  Tutors,  Chaplains  or  Levites — Struggle  for  Patronage  between  Church  and 
Magistracy— Fees— New  School  to  be  built  in  Churchyard— Interdict — Site  on  Pabdale 
grarited— Number  of  Pupils— Present  Condition 261 


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3:1V  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XVI.— PALACE  STREET. 

Long  Tenement— Hony man  of  Graemsay— Lord   Braxfield— Marriage  of   Richard  Honjrroan— 

Stewarts  of  Grwmsay— William  Orem— Charles  Stewart,  Stewart  Clerk  ....  279 

CHAPTER  XVIL— THE  KIRK  GREEN. 

Old  Town   Hall— Wreck   of  the   "Crown,"   with   Covenanters— Monument— Arthur  Murray's 

Guard-House—**  Jongs" — Market  Cross 284 

CHAPTER  XVIIL— VICTORIA  STREET. 

Chaplain's  Chamber— Subdean's  Lodging— Buchanan  of  Sandside — Calder's  Inn— Gospel  Hall — 
Chapel  of  Our  Lady  in  the  Laverock— Rev.  Mr  Nisbet  and  Mrs  Agnew— Crown 
Chamberlain's— William  Troup,  Dancing  Master— Mally  Troup— *' Charming  Mally" — 
Old  Post  OflSce— the  Butts— Traill  of  Elsness — Urquharts  of  Elsness — John  Richan — 
Rev.  Harry  Colville — Strangs  :  Andrew,  David,  and  George — Sir  Rol^ert  Strange — 
CuUoden — Dupaique,  Fencing  Master — Andrew  Strang — James  Stewart,  **Pea8ie" — his 
Will  — Rev.  Andrew  Ker. — Endowment  of  Second  Charge — Robert  Donaldson — Hugh 
Clouston— Rev.  William  Scott  builds  New  House — Mrs  Thuring— Francis  Halcro  refuses 
Oak  for  Repairing  Gun  Carriages — Hall  of  Banks — Quoybanks— the  "Black  Roll" — 
Victoria  Street  Hall — Francis  Murray — his  Child's  Name — Site  of  National  Bank — 
Douglas  of  Egilshay — Thomas  Swentoune,  Archdean — William  Mudie--Riot  in  Church 
— "  Wanton  Francis" — Captain  James  Moodie— Christian  Crawford — Captain  Benjamin 
Moodie  —his  Correspondence  with  Groat  of  Warse — his  Treatment  of  Orcadian  Jacobites 
— Captain  Baikie — *'  Glorious  First  of  June  " — Dr  Baikie — Provost  Louttit  of  Lykiug — 
James  Scarth— Patrick  Murray  of  W^oodwick — David  M'Lelland  buys  Woodwick— 
Spence  of  Overscapa  — Rev.  Hugh  Stalker— Magnus  Anderson,  Bookbinder — Orcadian — 
John  Boynd — Proclamation  by  Plafe  and  Sjtoon — Robert  Mackay— Matthew  Mowbray 
—  Bishop  Maxwell's  House — John  Edmonston — Arthur  Murray — Stewarts  of  Massater — 
Mutiny  of  the  *'  Bounty  " — Taylors  and  Pottingers — Thomas  Urquhart,  Postmaster — his 
Trial  and  Sentence — David  Erskine — Sir  James  Marwick — John  Caldell — Patrick 
Craigie,  Provost— Robert  Borwick— Highland  Park— Oliver  Scott— Clay  Loan— Execu- 
tions and  Executioners 288 

CHAPTER  XIX.— THE  LAMMAS  MARKET. 

Market — Dues— Town    Guard — Guard-House — Lammas    Bed— Lammas    Brother    and    Sister — 

Appropriation  of  Portions  of  Broad  Sands  by  Private  Persons 344 

CHAPITER  XX.— THE  UPPER  LAVEROCK. 

Richan  of  Linklater— Thomas  Warwick,  Litster  -Magnus  Taylor,  "  Clay  braes  "—William 
Farquhar,  Glover— Ballendens  of  Stenncss — Isobel  Ballendcn — Margaret  Richan  Slan- 
dered— George  Richan — Richan  of  Rapness — Richan  of  Hoxa— Captain  Richan,  of 
H.M.S.  "Norfolk"— Sheriff  Shirreff— Election  Riot- the  Balfour  Hospital  -  Matron- 
Doctors — Edward  Rind — Gutter  Hole — Robert  Nicolson,  Glazier — Robert  Nicolson, 
Sheriff — Thomas  Brown,  N.P. — Horse-hiring — Christian  Poison — Misses  Moodie's 
School — North  Pole  Mission — Mr  Copland's  House — Neukatineuks — Glaitness  School     .  348 

CHAPTER  XXI.— JUNCTION  ROAD  AND  CASTLE  STREET. 

Ruins  of  Castle — Masonic  Hall — Freemasonry—  Cathedral  Building — Lodge  Kirkwall  Kilwinning 

-s-Foitndation  Stone  of  Pier  laid 366 


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CONTENTS.  XV 

CHAPTER  XXII.— THE  AIRE  AND  PEERIE  SEA. 

Stewarts  of  Brugh— Mr  Walls'  Bargain— Proposed  Wind-Mill  on  the  Aire— The  "Doctor"— 
Water  Mill— Mr  Hutton's  Bridge — Stone  Bridge— Clearing  the  Oyce  Mouth— Ship- 
building—Deepening  the  Peerie  Sea— the  Craftie 372 

CHAPTER  XXm.— BACK  OF  TOWN. 

Pipersquoy  —  Horneraquoy  —  Roasting  Dyke — Quoybanks — the  Glebe — Quoyangrie — Bu tquoy — 
Cuikisquoy — Adrian  the  Cook — Walter  the  Gardener — Brandiequoy — Play  Ground — 
Old  Manse — Inscription— Let  to  Governor  Watson — Burning  of  the  Manse — Disputes 
about  Repsdrs  among  Rival  Claimants — Captain  Baikie  sells  to  Mr  Charles  Slater — 
George  Eunson — Smuggling — Charts  of  Orkney — Spirit  Licenses 379 

CHAPTER  XXIV.-PABDALE. 

The  name  Pabdale — William  Craigie  of  Pabdale — Laing — James,  father  of  thirty-four  Children — 
Gilbert  Meason — Robert  Laing  buys  Pabdale — Malcolm,  the  Historian,  encloses  and 
squares  Pabdale— the  Ba'lea — Laing  an  Advocate — Bursting  of  Pabdale  Mill-dam — 
Scott  visits  Laing — Pabdale  Garden— Death  of  Lord  Kinedder — Feuing  of  the  East  Hill 
— Mr  Rae's  Interdict — Scott  visits  Stones  of  Stenness— Destruction  of  Semi-Circle — 
Ring  of  Odin — Mill  Street — the  Brewery— the  Snuff  Mill— (xeorge  Robertson — William 
the  Third's  Volunteers — Keelie  Park — Carter's  Park — Dundas  Crescent — Gallowha'        .  394 

CHAPTER  XXV.— TRADEvS'  PARK. 

Origin  of  Trades'  Corporations — the  **  Blue  Blanket " — Abuse  of  Privilege  by  the  Trades — Incor- 
porated Trades  of  Kirkwall — Feuing  of  Trades'  Park- DiflScul ties  of  the  Committee  of 
Management — Suppression  of  Trades'  Corporations — Sale  of  Park — Division  of  Funds — 
Minute  Book — Taylor's  Seat  in  Church — Shoemakers'  Misconduct — Deacons  Members  of 
Council  ex  officio — Standard  of  Weights — Tampering  with  the  Weights  by  Earl  Robert  — 
Earl  Patrick — Lord  Ochiltree — Elphinston  of  Lc^pness — the  Standards — the  Bysmar — the 
Pundlar  — the  sniail  Bysmar— Fraudulent  Weighing  possible— Weighing  by  Beam  and 
Scale  introduced — Raising  of  the  "  Pundlar  Process  " — Guaging  of  Butter — the  Barrel  as 
a  Measure — the  Beer-tree — Beer-tree  Bind — Dressing  of  Grain — Drinking  and  Gambling  403 

CHAPTER  XXVI.— ST.  CATHERINE'S  QUOYS,  DUNKIRK,  AND  CROMWELL'S  FORT. 

St  Catherine's  Quoys,  Upper  and  Lower— David  Drever — Catherine  Place — Back  Walk — Young 
Street— Dunkirk — Whale  Fishing  Company — the  "Ellen" — Reading  Parties — Crom- 
well's Fort — Cromwell's  Soldiers  — his  Governors — Judges — County  Committee— Levies 
of  Men  and  Money — Efficiency  of  the  Fort 412 

CHAPTER  XXVIL— RULE  OF  THE  CHURCH. 

Rule  of  the  Church— Modes  of  Punishment — Breaches  of  the  Third  Commandment — Act  of  Parlia- 
ment against — the  Fourth  Commandment — Black  Roll— Absence  from  Church — Sunday 
Walking — Travelling — Drinking — Domestic  Work — Boys  of  Kirkwall— Sunday  Sports — 
Football — Golf — Archery — Sixth  Commandment — Case  of  Robert  Bellie,  Murderer — 
Seventh  Commandment — Treatment  of  Rich  and  Poor — Favourable  Terms  for  Ready 
Money — Pledges  taken  for  Fines :  a  Piece  of  Cloth,  a  Three-year-old  Cow — Arthur 
Murray's  Guard-House — Oaths  concerning  Paternity — Excommunication — Fugitives 
from  Discipline — Case  of  Robert  Erskine — Marriages — Pledges  raised  Peculiar  Questions 
— Sackcloth— Slander — Witchcraft  —  Registration  of  Baptisms — of  Marriages  —  Diffi- 


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XVI  CONTENTS. 

culties  of  a  Sailor's  Widow  in  getting  Married — in  the  case  of  Unreasonable  Parents  the 
Church  favoured  the  Young  People — Contracted  Parties  bound  to  Marry  within  Forty 
Days — Breaches  of  this  Rule — Duties  undertaken  by  the  Bridegroom  :  a  Donation  to  the 
Poor  Box,  a  Football  to  (grammar  School  Boys — Proclamations — Bells — Passing- Bell — 
Registrations  of  Deaths  Instituted  by  Bishop  Honyman — Burials  in  Woollen  Ordained — 
the  Mort-Cloth — Desecration  of  Churchyards — Burial  of  Snicides — Burial  in  the  Choir  of 
St.  Magnus— Meal  and  Malt  given  to  the  Poor — Special  iVifts  to  Distressed  Strangers — 
Church  Collections,  various  purposes,  Domestic  and  Foreign — Debased  CuiTenc3"  of 
Scotland  before  the  Union — Legal  Interest  on  Money — Fasts  and  Thanksgiving  Days      .  417 

The  Secession  Church  in  Kirkwall — Rev.  William  Broadfoot — his  Translation  to  London  — 
Mr  Pringle,  Newcastle,  and  Mr  Stark,  Forres — Messrs  White  and  Paterson,  Preachers 
— Mr  Paterson's  Appointment— his  Ordination— Sunday  School — Infant  School — Sub- 
scription School — Mr  Paterson's  Letter  to  Mr  Paul — Mr  Webster,  Assistant  and 
Successor— Mr  Haldane's  Visit  to  Orkney — its  effects 445 

Congregational  Church  in  Kirkwall — their  places  of  Worship— their  Ministers — their  Office- 
bearers        - 452 

Original  Seceders  or  Protestors — their  Opposition  to  other  Denominations — Controversy 
between  Mr  Paterson  and  Rev.  Ebenezer  Ritchie — Dawn  of  the  Disruption — Rev.  Peter 
Petrie — ** Stone  and  Lime  Disruption" 453 

Free  Church — Office-bearers — Union  with  Original  Seceders— Church  in  King  Street— Jubilee 

Church— F.C.  Manse— Sale  of  empty  Meeting-Houses 457 

EIpiscopal  Church — Persecution  suffered  by  Episcopalians — present  Incumbent  ....  458 

Gospel  Hall — Work  of  Mr  Darby 459 

Salvation  Army — Work  in  Ijarge  Cities 459 

CHAPTER  XXVIII.— SOME  RECENT  CHANGES. 

Home  Industries  sixty  years  ago— Net-knitting— Straw-plaiting— Growing  and  Preparation  of 
Rye  Straw— local  value  of  the  Industry— the  Village  **  Natural " — an  Expensive 
Pauper — Periodical  Blood-Letting — »Sheep-ruing— Introduction  of  Gas — Kirkwall  (ias 
Company — Private  Gas-making — Street  Lamps— Introduction  of  Water  by  Gravitation 
— Old  Methotls  of  Water  Carrying— the  iS^ay— Steamboat  Communication  with  the  South 
—the  last  of  the  Sailing  Packets— Steam  Communication  between  Kirkwall  and  the 
North  Isles — its  effect  on  the  Habits  of  the  People— Orkney  Road  Act — New  Year's 
Ba'— Queen's  Birthday  Bonfire 460 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


•'  St.  Magnus  Cathedral Front utpiece. 

Seal  of  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  1675 Page  14 

One  of  Bishop  Graham's  Communion  Cups  * 35 

Collection  Plate 37 

Ship,  from  Sailors'  Loft,  Cathedral.     Original  in  possession  of  J.  W.  Cursiter,  Esq.jF.S.A.  Scot. 

DrawingbyT.  S.  Peace,  F.S. A.  Scot.,  Architect 41 

*  For  use  of  block  favoured  by  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven. 


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CONTENTS.  XVll 

Cathedral  Choir,  showing  Graham's  Loft  and  Earl's  Seat 43 

Tombstone  erected  by  John  Covingtrie 62 

West  Front  of  Cathe<lral,  Main  Doorway 63 

North  Aisle,  Nave,  from  photograph  by  Miss  H.  Courtenay 65 

North  Aisle,  Dot>rway 57 

Arms  of  Bishop  TuUoch,  from  St.  Magnus.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 62 

Arms  of  Bishop  Stewart,  from  St.  Magnus.  ,,  ,,  64 

Arms  of  Bishop  Maxwell,  from  old  Gateway,  Victoria  Street.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace  .         64 

Arms  of  Bishop  Reid,  ,,  ,,  ,,  ,,  .         .  66 

Mural  Brass,  Notre  Dame,  Dieppe,  in  Memory  of  Bishop  Reid.     Photograph  procured  for  this 

book  by  the  lat€  Father  Henderson 67 

Earl's  Palace,  from  Billings'  **  Baronial  and  Ecclesiastical  Antiquities  of  Scotland,"       .         .  72 

Old  Town  Hall,  Kirk  Green 108 

Putt  Stone  behind  St.  Ola  Hotel.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 124 

Putt  Stone  in  Storehouse.  ,, 

Lintel,  back  of  the  Inns.  ,, 

House  of  Craigie  of  Gairsay.  ,, 

Large  Fireplace  in  Craigie's  House.  ,, 

Monograms  from  Craigie's  House.  ,, 

Lintel  over  Front  Door  of  the  Gallery.    ,, 
Doorw.iy  of  Old  St.  Olaf  s. 
Anmbrie  of  Old  St.  Olaf's.  „ 

Kirkwall  Beggar's  Badge.  ., 

Stone  with  Burgh  Arms,  Old  Bridge.       ,, 
Doorway,  House  of  Rev.  J.  Wallace.       ,, 


126 

125 

140 

141 

143 

167 

160 

161 

162 

168 

170 

Communion  Cups,  Mr  Wallace's  Bequest 172 

Tombstone  in  Cathedral,  (ieorge  Liddell  of  Hammer 174 

Arras  of  Watt  of  Skaill 176 

Stone  over  Doorway  in  Lang  Stcan  Close.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 177 

Stone  from  Sinclair  of  Essenquoy's  House.  ,,  ,, 186 

Arms  of  Balfour  of  Balfour  and  Trenaby 199 

Henryson  Shield,  from  Tombstone,  Cathedral.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 207 

Stone  from  Karl's  Palace.  „  ,,  214 

Arms  of  Stewart  of  Burray.  „  ,, 216 

abroad  Street,  circa,  1780  „  „  ...        to  face  222 

Gateway,  Taukerness  House 228 

Inscription  over  Gateway.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 229 

"/Municipal  Buildings to  face  232 

Stone  from  George  Traill's  House.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 235 

David  Craigie's  Tombstone 237 

•Arms  of  Monteith  of  Egilshay,  Bishop  Graham,  and  Smythe  of  Braco.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace. 

to  J  ace  244 

Orem's  House  and  Bishop's  Tower,  from  water  colour  by  Miss  Maude  A.  Balfour       ,         .         .  283 

Hugh  Halcro's  Arms.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 289 

Monogram  in  Buchanan's  House.         ,,  290 

Lintel,  34  Victoria  Street 296 

John  Richan's  Tombstone 297 

Carved  Stones,  John  Richan's  House.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 298 

Lintel,  John  Richan's  House.  ,,  „  299 

Tablet,  Victoria  Street.  „  „ 307 

Carved  Stone,  5  Victoria  Street.  ,,  „  329 


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XVIU  CONTENTS. 

Stone  with  Bishop  MaxwelFs  Monogram.     Drawn  by  T.  8.  Peaoe 332 

Old  Houses  in  Victoria  Street.  „  ,,  883 

Lintel,  back  of  Balfour  Hospital.  ,,  „ 349 

Tombstone,  Robert  Rtchan  and  Isobel  Ballenden 850 

Stone  in  House  at  Gutterhole.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 351 

Ruins  of  Kirkwall  Castle.  ,,  „  387 

JErskine's  Houses tojtict  372 

^a>abdale to  face  394 

Stone  with  Ring  of  Odin.     Drawn  by  T.  S.  Peace 399 


AVAPS. 


J  Kirkwall  in  the  Time  of  Rognwald  I .to  fact  5 

V  Kirkwall  from  Shore  to  Long  Gutter ,,  117 

/TtlRKWALL  FROM   LoNO  GUTTER  TO   HeAD   OF  BrOAD   StREKT „  183 

V  Kirkwall,  Victoria  Street „  288 


ABBREVIATIONS. 


Acts  ^Scottish  Acts  of  Parliament. 

Aat.  Mus. — Mu.seum  of  the  Scottish  Society  of  Antiquaries. 

C.R. — Town  Council  Records. 

Fabti — Fasti  Ecclesiie  Scoticanae  :  The  succession  of  ministers  in  the  Parish  Churches  of  Scotland, 

from  the  Reformation,  4560,  to  the  present  day,  by  Hew  Scott,  D.D. 
H.L. — Henry  Leask,  Boardbouse. 
North.  Ant. — Mallet's  Northern  Antiquities. 
Ork.  and  Zet.  Cliron. — Orkney  and  Zetland  Chronicle. 
Pet.  Notes— Sheriff  Peterkin's  Notes  on  Orkney. 
Pet.  Rent. — Peterkin's  Orkney  Rentals. 
Presb.  Rec. — Presbytery  Records. 
Pund.  Proc.  — Pundlar  Process. 
Reg.  — Registered. 
Saga — Orkneyinga  Saga. 
S.R. — Session  Records. 
Sh.  Ct.  Reg. — Sheriff  Court  Registers. 
T.B. — Tliomas  Brown  or  Brown's  Diary. 


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Kirkwall  in  the  Orkneys. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Introductory. 

^N  the  introduction  to  the  Life  of  Agricola,  it  is  casually  stated  that  the  fleet  sailing  round 
^  by  the  northern  coast  discovered  what  had  not  been  known,  that  Britain  was  an  island, 
and  found  and  annexed  the  Orcades.  The  name  remained  steadily  in  use,  and  is  repre- 
sented by  the  Orkneys  of  the  present  day.* 

From  the  middle  of  the  first  century  of  the  Christian  era  there  are  in  European  literature 
frequent  references  to  the  Orcades.  Geographers  and  historians  professed  to  fix  the  position 
and  to  state  the  number  of  the  islands.  Poets,  trading  on  the  romance  which  hangs  round 
remote  and  imperfectly  known  places,  used  them  to  adorn  their  lines.  Thus  Claudian, 
towards  the  close  of  the  fourth  century,  reciting  the  exploits  of  his  imperial  patron,  Theodosius^ 
saturates  the  Orkneys  with  Saxon  gore.t 

Before  the  islands  had  acquired  any  political  recognition,  ecclesiastical  history  shows  that 
the  Church  had  marked  them  out  as  a  field  of  missionary  effort. 

About  the  year  429,  Pope  Celastinus  consecrated  Palladius  and  sent  him  to  Scotland,  **  for 
before,  the  Scots  were  instructed  in  the  faith  by  priests  and  monks  without  bishops.  He  is 
the  first  that  created  anie  bishops  in  Scotland.  He  ordained  Servanus  bishop,  and  sent  him 
to  Orkney  to  preach  the  Qospell."  X 

"  Cormac,  a  soldier  of  Christ,  attempted  a  second  time  to  discover  a  desert  in  the  ocean. 
After  he  set  out  under  full  sail  from  the  land  along  the  boundless  ocean,  Saint  Columba,  who 
was  then  staying  beyond  Drumalban  (the  Grampians),  commended  him  to  King  Brude,  in  the 
presence  of  the  ruler  of  the  Orkneys,  saying,  *  Some  of  our  brethren  have  lately  set  sail, 
desiring  to  find  a  desert  in  the  pathless  sea ;  should  they  chance  after  many  wanderings  to 
come  to  the  Orkney  Islands,  do  thou  carefully  commend  them  to  this  prince,  whose  hostages 
are  in  thy  hand,  that  no  evil  may  befall  them  within  his  territories.'  The  Saint  spake  thus 
because  he  foresaw  in  spirit  that  after  a  few  months  Cormac  would  arrive  at  the  Orkneys. 
And  so  it  came  to  pass  ;  and  to  the  aforesaid  commendation  of  the  holy  man,  Cormac  owed 
his  escape  from  impending  death." 

♦  HiU  Burton,  i.  20. 

t  Barry  has  noted  13  references  from  a.d.  45  to  657,  p.  19,  2nd  Ed. 

X  Calder^'ood,  i.  40. 


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2  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Whether  Cormac,  on  his  arrival,  discovered  any  results  of  the  teaching  of  Servauus  does 
not  appear,  but  the  Golumban  mission,  once  begun,  was  maintained,  and  Christianity  spread 
over  Orkney. 

A  small  collection  of  huts  occupied  the  site  of  what  was  to  become  the  chief  town  in  the 
islands. 

What  the  hamlet  was  during  the  Pictish  occupation,  we  can  from  its  position  fairly 
conjecture.  Drawing  their  sustenance  chiefly  from  the  water,  the  first  settlers  planted  their 
dwellings  along  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  by  the  edge  of  a  large  tidal  basin  known  in  later 
times  as  the  Oyce,  shut  off  from  the  open  sea  bya  long  stretch  of  stony  beach,  now  called 
the  Aire.* 

Such  a  position  was  highly  advantageous  to  the  primitive  community,  for  when  the  outer 
waters  were  too  boisterous  for  their  frail  vessels,  they  could  launch  their  coracles  on  the 
lagoon,  ready  at  all  times  to  yield  a  liberal  return  to  their  primitive  modes  of  fishing. 

Here  for  centuries  generation  had  suceeded  generation  in  submission  to  a  patriarchal 
government,  which  has  left  no  history,  and  in  the  practice  of  a  religion  of  which  nothing  now 
is  known. 

In  this  i)lace  the  Culdees  established  a  mission.  But  this  was  not  the  only,  nor  indeed 
the  principal,  station  of  the  Irish  missionaries  in  Orkney.  Such  names  as  Papa  and  Paplay 
show  that  they  had  dotted  themselves  down  all  over  the  islands,  while  the  round  tower  in 
Egilshay  marks  the  site  of  the  metropolitan  church.  John  Hill  Burton,  the  historian,  who 
does  not  appear  to  have  known  of  the  Egilshay  tower,  says  concerning  such  building  :— 
"  Most  people  have  heard  of  those  mysterious  edifices,  the  Irish  round  towers.  We  have 
two  specimens  of  the  structure  in  Scotland  ;  there  are  none  in  England  or  on  the  Continent. 
Buildings  so  exclusively  peculiar  could  not  but  excite  curiosity  and  wonder ;  and  the  more 
80  that,  while  they  stand  beside  churches,  or  are  indeed  actually  part  of  them,  yet  it  is 
clear  that  they  were  built  at  a  different  time  and  never  formed  any  feature  of  the  design  on 
which  the  church  might  be  built.  Different  in  their  general  form  and  structure  from  the 
early  Christian  buildings,  they  were  eccentric  in  this,  that  while  the  Irish  ecclesiastics 
seemed  to  have  built  nothing  else  of  stone  or  nothing  of  a  lasting  kind,  they  had  raised  these 
prodigious  towers.  Yet  if  we  suppose  their  means  to  have  been  limited,  this  devotion  of  them 
would,  keeping  purely  ecclesiastical  purposes  in  view,  be  a  good  investment.  The  great 
difficulty  they  had  to  deal  with  was  the  sudden  invasions  of  the  Norsemen,  who  carried  off 
what  was  ready  to  their  hand,  and  burned  what  was  destructible.  One  cannot  suppose  better 
fortresses  of  defence  against  enemies  like  these  than  the  round  towers.  They  had  no  stairs, 
and  could  only  be  scaled  by  ladders.  Nowhere  could  the  treasures  of  the  church— the  books, 
the  relics,  and  the  objects  of  more  material  value— be  so  safe  as  in  one  of  these  stone  tubes, 
whether  attended  with  a  guard  or  not.  It  was  impossible  to  attack  them  without  a  scaffolding 
of  equal  height ;  for  to  attempt  to  topple  thom  down,  by  attacks  from  below,  before  the  days 
of  artillery,  would  have  been  destructive  to  the  besiegers. 

**  It  was  natural  that,  as  the  practice  of  their  parent  Irish  church,  the  raising  of  such 
buildings  would  find  its  way  across  to  the  ecclesiastics  of  Scotland.*' 

Though  destitute  of  a  tower,  our  little  village  had  its  church,  and  the  name  Pabdale 
shows  that  the  monks  had  fixed  their  abode  on  the  bank  of  the  stream  that  ran  past  the 
hamlet  into  the  Oyce. 

For  a  couple  of  centuries  after  Cormac's  time  the  mission  was  left  in  undisturbed  enjoy- 
ment of  Christian  ordinances. 

•  Norse,  Eyer,  a  shore. 


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INTRODUCTORY.  » 

But  no\¥  an  intrusion  of  an  alarming  kind  began  to  make  itself  seen  and  felt.  An 
occasional  galley  put  into  the  bay  having  on  board  a  heathen  crew,  which  feared  not  God  nor 
regarded  man,  whose  idea  of  the  rights  of  property  was  the  simplest — everything  belonged  to 
them  which  they  had  the  opportunity  to  seize  and  the  strength  to  hold. 

And  these  rovers  could  appreciate  to  the  full  the  advantages  of  the  situation  which  th& 
Pictish  settlers  had  chosen  for  their  home.  The  splendid  bay  could  afford  shelter  for  navies. 
It  had  communication  on  the  west  with  the  Atlantic  and  on  the  east  with  the  North  Sea. 
But  it  was  not  the  magnificent  bay  or  "  hafn  "  that  specially  attracted  the  Norsemen  ;  it  wa» 
the  Oyce,  the  convenient  and  commodious  vagr* —  the  "  Peerie  Sea"  of  to-day.  Here  their 
galleys,  beached  or  anchored,  could  in  all  seasons  and  in  all  weathers  lie  in  perfect  safety  ;  and 
these  advantages  the  vikings  were  not  slow  to  utilise.  From  regarding  the  place  as  a  port  of 
occasional  call,  they  soon  came  to  make  it  the  rendezvous  for  those  annual  piratical  cruises 
which  were  the  terror  of  the  whole  European  sea-board. 

One  can  easily  imagine  the  scene,  on  a  spring  morning,  as  witnessed  from  the  Aire,  when,, 
on  the  first  of  the  ebb  tide,  galley  after  galley,  following  the  long  ship  of  the  chief,  filed 
through  the  mouth  of  the  Oyce,  sped  across  the  bay,  and  disappeared  down  the  String. 

These  wanderers,  regarding  home  and  country  simply  as  head-quarters,  or  as  a  base  of 
operations,  instead  of  returning  to  Norway  with  their  spoils,  began  to  winter  in  the  islands  ; 
and  the  number  of  settlers  increased  so  rapidly  that,  before  the  end  of  the  eighth  century^ 
Orkney  had  entirely  fallen  into  the  hands  of  Norse  rovers,  who  held  themselves  independent 
alike  of  Scotland  and  of  Norway,  and  who  recognised  no  law  but  the  law  of  the  strongest 

As  yet  there  was  no  King  of  Norway.  The  country  was  divided  among  a  number  of 
independent  chiefs,  not  one  of  whom  could  assert  any  authority  over  the  others. 

Shortly  after  the  middle  of  the  ninth  century  one  of  these,  Harald,  surnamed  the  Fair- 
haired,  resolved  to  make  a  dash  for  monarchy.  This  man  "  stands  completely  isolated  from 
parentage  and  early  history.  The  legend  is  that  he  had  vowed  to  let  his  beautiful  locks  of 
golden  hair  grow  undipped  until  he  should  call  himself  monarch  of  all  Norway."  t 

The  Sagas  throw  around  this  episode  in  northern  history  the  romance  of  a  love  story. 

Harald,  probably  the  son  of  one  of  the  petty  kings,  asked  Gyda,  the  daughter  of  another,, 
to  be  his  wife.  She  replied  that  she  would  give  him  his  answer  when  he  could  make  her 
Queen  of  all  Norway. 

Harald  set  himself  to  the  task,  and,  mainly  by  the  help  of  Rognwald  of  Moeri,  was  able 
to  have  himself  proclaimed  sole  King,  872.    Of  necessity  Gyda  became  Queen. 

Harald's  work  in  Norway  gave  a  fresh  departure  to  the  history  of  our  islands. 

"  Many  men  left  Norway,  fleeing  the  country,  on  account  of  King  Harald,  and  went  on 
viking  cruises  into  the  west  sea.  In  winter  they  were  in  the  Orkney  Islands,  but  marauded 
in  summer  in  Norway,  and  did  great  damage."J 

To  crush  those  irritating  pests,  and  perhaps  to  find  employment  for  the  more  turbulent  of 
his  own  chiefs,  Harald  set  out  with  a  powerful  fleet,  and  sweeping  aside  all  opposition,  not 
only  brought  Orkney  and  Shetland  under  subjection,  but  extended  his  sway  over  the  Hebrides 
and  Man.  The  king  offered  the  lordship  of  the  northern  isles  to  his  friend  and  supporter.  Earl 
Rognwald.  Rognwald,  however,  preferred  returning  to  Norway,  but  he  secured  the  insular 
rule  to  his  brother,  Sigurd,  who  thus  became  first  Earl  of  Orkney,  a.d.  872.  And  so  these 
islands,  geographically  Scottish,  and  which  had  been  tributary  to  the  northern  Pictish  kings, 
became  politically  attached  to  Norway.    By  this  time  the  aboriginal  Picts  had  died  out  or 

*  Rhymes  with  ogre.  +  Hill  Burton,  i.  326. 

:{:  Harald  Harfager's  Saga  ;  Laing's  Sea  Kings,  i.  289. 


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4  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

had  become  merged  among  the  Norse  invaders.     Their  religion  died  with  them,  and  in  its 
place  came  the  hero  worship  of  Odin  and  Thor. 

In  mound  and  monolith,  so  common  in  our  islands,  we  have  a  voiceless  history  of  the 
Viking  period  :— "  Odin  established  by  law  that  all  dead  men  should  be  burned,  and  the  ashes 
be  cast  into  the  sea  or  buried  in  the  earth.  For  men  of  consequence  a  mound  should  be 
raised  to  their  memory,  and  for  all  other  warriors  who  had  been  distinguished  for  manhood, 
a  standing  stone,  which  custom  remained  long  after  Odin's  time."  * 

At  the  close  of  the  tenth  century  Christianity  was  re-established  by  the  baptism  of  Earl 
Sigurd  II.  and  his  followers.  The  story  is  very  simply  related  in  the  Saga  :— "  Olaf 
Tryggvison,  returning  from  a  viking  expedition  to  the  west,  came  to  the  Orkneys  with  his 
men,  and  seized  Earl  Sigurd  in  Osmundwall  as  he  lay  there  with  a  single  ship.  King  Olaf 
offered  the  Earl  to  ransom  his  life  on  condition  that  he  should  embrace  the  true  faith  and  be 
baptized  ;  that  he  should  become  his  man,  and  proclaim  Christianity  over  all  the  Orkneys." 

Under  compulsion,  Sigurd  submitted,  but  his  fealty  and  his  religion  sat  equally  lightly  on 
him.  The  Saga  continues  :—"  After  that  Earl  Sigurd  paid  no  allegiance  to  King  Olaf.  He 
married  the  daughter  of  Malcolm,  King  of  Scots."  And  when  he  w^ent  forth  to  be  slain  in  the 
battle  of  Clontirf,  his  raven  banner  was  consecrated  by  the  most  potent  spells  of  the  old 
superstition. 

On  the  death  of  Sigurd,  his  youngest  son,  Thorfinn,  encouraged  by  his  grandfather, 
Malcolm  II.  of  Scotland,  seized  the  earldom.  But  by  a  former  marriage  Sigurd  had  three 
sons.  The  eldest  died  in  his  bed.  The  two  younger,  Einar  and  Brusi,  made  a  compact  that 
the  survivor  should  succeed  to  the  estate  of  the  other.  Einar  was  killed  by  the  followers  of 
Thorfinn,  and  when  Brusi  died  the  grandson  of  the  King  of  Scotland  regarded  himself  as  sole 
ruler  of  the  Orkneys. 

But  Brusi's  son,  Rognwald,  came  from  the  east  and  claimed  his  portion— not  only  his 
father's  share,  but  also  that  of  his  uncle,  Einar. 

Thorfinn  was  Earl  of  Caithness,  and  quite  powerful  enough  to  retain  the  position  in 
Orkney  which  he  had  assumed,  yet  he  quietly  ceded  this  claim,  and  "  thus  eight  winters  passed 
that  Earl  Rognwald  had  two-thirds  of  the  islands  without  any  objection  on  the  part  of 
Thorfinn." 

Rognwald  Brusison  erected  the  church  from  which  Kirkwall  has  its  name.  Wiiat  the 
Norsemen  called  the  hamlet  before  the  kirk  was  built  is  not  known.  In  the  Saga  it  is 
nameless  till  the  days  of  Brusison,  and  even  then  the  compound  Kirkiu-vagr— the  creek  of  the 
kirk— shows  that  the  Oyce  was  what  was  valued,  and  not  either  kirk  or  village. 

Rognwald  dedicated  his  church  to  the  memory  of  his  foster-father,  Olaf  the  Holy,  who 
was  killed  in  the  battle  of  Sticklastadt,  1030.  Uncle  and  nephew,  in  their  joint  earldom, 
agreed  pretty  well  for  eight  years,  but,  "when  bad  men  went  between  them,  dissensions 
arose."  Then  came  war— battles  on  sea  and  on  land,  heroic  fighting,  and  marvellous  escapes, 
till  at  last  Rognwald  was  slain  in  Papa  Stronsay,  and  Thorfinn  ruled  alone.  "  Men  said  that 
Earl  Rognwald  was  one  of  the  best-beloved  of  all  the  earls  of  the  Orkneys  ;  and  his  death 
was  greatly  lamented  by  all  the  people."  t 

Brusison  is  the  first  of  the  earls  named  as  living  in  Kirkwall,  and  it  is  probable  that  he 
built  his  hall  here  shortly  after  the  arrangement  with  Thorfinn.  "  Earl  Rognwald  resided  in 
Kirkwall,  and  brought  there  all  necessaries  for  the  winter  ;  he  had  a  great  number  of  men 
and  entertained  them  liberally."  J 

This  is  the  first  mention  of  the  village  by  name,  and  it  is  with  Earl  Rognwald  L,  presum- 
ably the  builder  of  church  and  castle,  that  the  history  of  Kirkwall  begins,  circa  1035. 
*  Yinglinga  Saga.  t  Saga.  X  Saga. 


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KIRKW^ZZ  B    Jl    T 


—  KIRKWALL.— 

IH  THE  TIME  OF  EARL  ROGNWALD  /. 


NOTE,— The  sUwUion  of  the  modem  ttreeU 
and  highway  $  u  thown  thus —.zzirz:^ 


»L  MEDDLE. 

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INTRODUCTORY.  5 

Id  Earl  Rognwald's  time  the  little  town  still  consisted  of  two  irregular  rows  of  houses, 
one  lying  east  and  west  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  the  other  running  southward  at  right  angles 
to  the  sea  front,  and  facing  the  Oyce.  The  southmost  building  then  and  for  many  years  after- 
wards was  St.  Olaf  s  Church,  attached  to  which  was  a  space  of  consecrated  ground  extending 
to  the  Burn  of  Pabdale.  The  Hall  or  Castle  was  on  the  higher  ground,  a  little  to  the  south- 
west of  the  hamlet. 

After  the  death  of  his  nephew,  "  Earl  Thorfinn  took  possession  of  the  whole  of  the  islands, 
and  no  one  spoke  against  him.  He  left  off  making  war  expeditions,  and  turned  his  mind  to 
the  government  of  his  land  and  his  people,  and  to  the  making  of  laws."  He  made  a  pilgrimage 
to  Rome,  and  received  from  the  Pope  absolution  for  all  his  sins.  After  his  return  he  resided 
chiefly  in  Birsay,  where  he  built  Christ's  Kirk,  **  a  splendid  church,  and  there  was  the  first 
Bishop's  see  in  the  Orkneys."  "  Earl  Thorfinn  was  five  winters  old  when  Malcolm,  King  of 
Scots,  his  mother's  father,  gave  him  the  title  of  earl,  and  after  that  he  was  earl  for  seventy 
winters."  "  He  was  a  man  of  very  large  stature,  uncomely,  sharp-featured,  dark  haired,  and 
sallow  and  swarthy  in  his  complexion.  Yet  he  was  a  most  martial- looking  man  and  of  great 
energy,  greedy  of  wealth  and  of  renown,  bold  and  successful  in  war,  and  a  great  strategist.  It 
is  truly  said  that  he  was  the  most  powerful  of  all  the  earls  of  the  Orkneys.  He  is  buried  ali 
Christ's  Kirk,  which  he  had  built."  * 

Thorfinn  and  his  wife,  Ingibiorg,  "  the  mother  of  earls,"  "  had  two  sons  who  arrived  at 
manhood  ;  one  was  called  Paul,  the  other  Erlend.  They  were  men  of  large  stature,  fine- 
looking,  wise  and  gentle,  r&sembling  their  mother's  relations.  They  were  much  loved  by  the 
Earl  and  all  the  people.  Now  the  sons  of  Earl  Thorfinn  succeeded  him.  Paul  was  the  elder 
of  the  two,  and  he  ruled  for  both  of  them.  They  did  not  divide  their  possessions,  yet  they 
almost  always  agreed  in  their  dealings."  "  When  the  brothers,  Paul  and  Erlend,  ruled  the 
Orkneys,  King  Magnus  came  from  Norway  with  a  large  army.  He  seized  the  Earls  Paul  and 
Erlend  and  sent  them  east  to  Norway,  where  they  died  ;  placed  his  son  Sigurd  over  the  Isles, 
and  gave  him  counsellors."  t 

"  King  Magnus  went  to  the  Sudreyar,  accompanied  by  Magnus  and  Erlend,  tlie  sons  of 
Earl  Erlend,  and  Hakon,  Paul's  son.  He  fought  a  great  battle  in  Anglesea  Sound  with  two 
British  chiefs.  When  the  men  took  up  their  arms  and  buckled  for  the  fight,  Magnus,  Erlend's 
son,  sat  down  on  the  fore-deck  and  did  not  take  his  arms.  The  King  asked  why  he  did  not  do 
so.  He  said  he  had  nothing  against  anyone  there,  and  would  not  therefore  fight.  The 
King  said,  *  Go  down  below  and  do  not  lie  among  other  people's  feet  if  you  dare  not  fight,  for 
I  do  not  believe  that  you  do  this  from  religious  motives.'  Magnus  took  a  psalter  and  sang 
during  the  battle,  and  did  not  shelter  himself."  t 

After  the  fight  in  Menai  Strait,  King  Magnus  Barefoot  looked  askance  at  Magnus, 
Erlend's  son,  so  the  young  man  stole  away  from  the  Norwegian  Court  and  found  refuge  with 
the  Scottish  King. 

"  Then  King  Magnus  married  Gunnhild,  the  daughter  of  Earl  Erlend,  to  Kol,  Kali's  son. 
Her  dowry  consisted  of  possessions  in  the  Orkneys."    Kol  and  Gunnhild  had  a  son.  Kali. 

Sigurd,  whom  his  father,  Magnus  Barefoot,  had  placed  over  Orkney,  went,  on  the  King's 
death,  to  take  the  throne  of  Norway,  and  Hakon,  Paul's  son,  with  Sigurd's  consent,  ruled  the 
Orkneys. 

After  a  time,  Magnus,  the  son  of  Earl  Erlend,  came  from  Scotland  and  claimed  his 
patrimony,  which  was  reluctantly  ceded  by  Hakon.  '*  So  long  as  their  friendship  continued 
there  were  good  times  and  peace  in  the  Orkneys/' 

"  Magnus,  Earl  of  the  Islands,  was  a  most  excellent  man.  He  was  large  of  stature,  a  man 
*  Saga.  t  Saga.  t  Saga. 


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6  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

of  noble  presence  and  intellectual  countenance.  He  was  of  blameless  life,  victorious  in  battles, 
wise,  eloquent,  strong-minded,  liberal,  and  maj];nanimou8,  sagacious  in  counsels,  and  more 
beloved  than  any  other  man."  * 

But  Hakon  became  "  very  jealous  of  the  popularity  and  greatness  of  his  kinsman,  Magnus. 
Through  the  slander  of  wicked  men  this  enmity  went  so  far  that  the  earls  gathered  troops  and 
went  to  meet  each  other.  But  as  many  well-disposed  men  joined  themselves  together  to  avert 
hostilities  between  them,  and  to  a.ssist  neither  of  them  against  the  other,  they  confirmed  their 
reconciliation  with  oaths  and  shaking  of  hands." 

**  Some  time  after  this.  Earl  Hakon,  with  hypocrisy  and  fair  words,  appointed  a  day  of 
meeting  with  the  blessed  Earl  Magnus.  This  meeting,  which  was  to  confirm  their  peace, 
should  take  place  in  Pasch  week  in  Egilsey.  Each  of  them  should  have  two  ships  and  an 
equal  number  of  men.  Earl  MagniLs  arrived  first  with  his  men  at  Egilsey,  and  when  they  saw 
Earl  Hakon  coming  they  perceived  that  he  had  eight  war  ships."  t 

Hakon's  object  was  apparent.  Magnus  was  murdered  in  cold  blood,  and,  as  if  he  had 
been  a  criminal  and  deserved  to  be  capitally  punished,  his  body  was  denied  honourable  buriaLJ 

Thora,  the  mother  of  Magnus,  had  prepared  a  feast  for  the  two  Earls  when  they  should 
return  from  the  conference,  and  when  Hakon  came  alone  she  readily  understood  the  cause  of 
her  son's  absence.  Concealing  her  feelings,  and  waiting  till  "  the  drink  began  to  have  effect 
upon  the  Earl,"  she  obtained  permission  to  bury  her  son's  body  where  she  chose,  and  she 
selected  Christ's  Kirk  at  Birsay  as  its  resting-place.§ 

Soon  it  was  noticed  that  "  above  the  grave  was  a  beam  of  light,  while  a  fragrant  odour 
diff'used  around  had  marvellous  healing  virtues."  ||  "  Then  men  who  were  placed  in  danger 
began  to  pray  to  him,  and  their  prayers  were  heard."  IT 

In  the  Magnus  Saga  a  list  of  cures  is  chronicled,  two  of  them  being  cases  of  leprasy  from 
Shetland,  whence  most  of  the  pilgrims  came.*  It  was  also  observed  that  the  place  where  Earl 
Magnus  was  slain,  which  was  previously  covered  with  moss  and  stones,  became  green  sward, 
and  at  no  time  of  the  year  could  any  one  go  thither  without  finding  a  flower  in  blossom.t 
"  But  people  dared  not  make  this  known  while  Earl  Hakon  was  alive."  J  Hakon  became  a 
good  ruler,  and  established  peace  throughout  his  dominions  ;  he  also  made  new  laws  for  the 
Orkneys,  which  the  landowners  liked  better  than  the  old.  He  was  pious,  too,  after  the  fashion 
of  the  times,  for  he  made  a  pilgrimage  to  Rome  and  to  Jerusalem,  and  cleansed  himself  from 
all  physical  and  moral  impurities  in  the  waters  of  the  Jordan. 

After  his  return  he  built  in  Orphir  a  church,  formed  upon  the  plan  of  the  church  of  the 

Holy  Sepulchre,  in  Jerusalem,  and  "  he  became  so  popular  that  the  Orkneymen  desired  no 

^ther  rulers  than  Hakon  and  his  issue."  §     So  he  reigned  in  peace  over  all  Orkney  during  his 

lifetime,  and  died  greatly  mourned  by  his  people.     At  Hakon's  death  his  son,  Paul,  assumed 

the  earldom. 

Meanwhile  Kali,  the  son  of  Gunnhild,  sister  of  Earl  Magnus,  "grew  up  and  was  a  most 
promising  man.  He  was  of  middle  size  and  very  handsomely  shaped.  He  was  very  affable, 
popular,  and  highly  accomplished."  To  him  Sigurd  of  Norway  gave  the  half  of  the  Orkneys. 
"He  also  gave  him  the  name  of  Earl  Rognwald  because  his  mother,  Gunnhild,  said  that 
Rognwald  Brusison  was  the  most  accomplished  of  the  Orkney  Earls,  and  thought  the  name 
would  bring  good  fortune."    This  youth  now  claimed  the  estate  of  his  uncle,  the  murdered 

*  Saga.  t  TorfsBus. 

t  The  Aberdeen  Breviary  gives  the  date  as  1104.  The  Bollandists  suggest  1106.  A  recent 
thoughtful  but  anonymous  writer  makes  it  1116.  But  Dr  Anderson,  in  his  introduction  to  the 
Orkneyinga  Saga,  gives  good  reasons  for  fixing  it  1115. 

§  Saga.         II  TorfsBus.        IT  Saga.         *  Anderson.        t  Saga.        t  Saga.        §  Saga. 


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INTRODUCTORY.  7 

Magnus.  But  Paul  would  not  cede  any  part  of  the  earldom,  and  Rognwald  in  prosecuting  his 
claim,  while  not  actually  defeated,  was  baffled  and  unsuccessful.  Indeed  there  is  no  doubt 
that  the  islanders  felt  more  restful  and  secure  under  one  than  under  two  earls,  and  this,  with 
their  memory  of  Hakon's  beneficent  reign,  made  them  less  than  lukewarm  in  the  cause  of 
Rognwald.  In  these  circumstances,  Kol,  the  father  of  Rognwald,  advised  his  son  to  invoke 
the  aid  of  his  sainted  uncle.  "  Now  it  is  my  counsel  to  seek  for  help  where  it  is  likely  to  be 
had  eflfectually,  and  to  pray  that  he  may  permit  you  to  enjoy  these  possessions  to  whom  they 
rightly  belong— namely,  the  holy  Saint  Magnus,*  your  mother's  brother.  It  is  my  wish  that 
you  should  make  a  vow  to  him  that  he  may  grant  you  your  patrimony  and  his  inheritance. 
You  should  promise  one  thing— that  if  you  obtain  these  dominions  you  will  build  a  stone 
minster  at  Kirkwall^  in  the  Orhieys,  more  magnificent  than  any  in  these  lands,  dedicating  it  to 
your  kinsman,  Earl  Magnus  the  Holy,  endowing  it  with  money  so  that  it  may  be  fitly 
established,  and  that  his  relics  and  the  Bishop's  See  may  be  brought  there."  t 

The  vow  was  made.  Rognwald  was  successful.  Without  bloodshed.  Earl  Paul  ceded  the 
half  of  the  islands  and  went  to  live  in  Rousay,  while  Rognwald  occupied  the  Hall  at  Kirkwall. 

At  this  time  there  lived  in  Gairsay,  Swein  Asleifs  son,  perhaps  the  most  daring  and 
reckless  of  the  viking  leaders,  but  when  Paul  came  to  Rousay,  Swein  had  gone  "  to  Scotland 
to  see  his  friends."  Among  others  he  visited  Paul's  sister,  Margaret,  who  had  married 
Maddad,  Earl  of  Athol,  and  the  three  "  had  many  secret  consultations."  J 

Hearing  of  disturbances  in  Orkney,  Swein  came  north  with  a  single  ship,  surprised  Earl 
Paul  at  an  otter  hunt  in  Rousay,  and  carried  him  away  to  Athol.  Paul  never  returned  to 
Orkney,  but  his  nephew,  Harald,  Maddad's  son,  was  admitted  joint  earl  with  Rognwald, 
the  latter  to  be  sole  ruler. 

Earl  Rognwald  II.  found  Kirkwall  very  much  as  Earl  Rognwald  I.  had  left  it  a  century 
before  ;  but  the  fulfilment  of  his  vow  transformed  the  hamlet  into  a  town.  The  building  of 
the  Cathedral  necessitated  a  palace  for  the  bishops,  residences  for  the  dignitaries  of  the  church, 
and  dwellings  for  the  numerous  followers  of  these  important  personages. 

In  these  changes  Bishop  William,  who  resided  for  the  most  part  in  Egilshay,  was  an 
important  factor. 

Buchanan,  in  his  description  of  Kirkwall,  1582,  gives  the  key  to  a  proper  interpretation  of 
its  history  :— "  In  this  town  there  are  two  Castles  of  moderate  extent  near  to  each  other,  the 
one  the  King's  and  the  other  the  Bishop's.  Between  them  is  a  Church  which,  for  these  regions, 
may  be  termed  magnificent ;  and  between  the  Church  and  the  Castles  there  are  some  buildings 
on  both  sides  which  the  inhabitants  call  two  cities — the  one  the  Royal,  and  the  other  the 
Episcopal." 

James  the  Third's  Charter,  31st  March  1486,  recognises  this  division,  when  it  is  proposed 
"  to  erect  all  and  haill  our  said  Burgh  and  City  of  Kirkwall,  and  that  part  thereof  called  the 
Laverock,  in  ane  ffull  Burgh  Royal." 

The  Laverock  was  the  Episcopal  domain,  and  the  boundary  between  the  two  "  cities  "  was 
the  lane  which  divides  Broad  Street  into  two  nearly  equal  portions. 

The  rivalry  between  the  youths  of  Burgh  and  Laverock  always  found  ready  vent  in  the 
trials  of  strength  and  skill  afforded  by  the  popular  sports.  Thus  the  fierce  struggle  which 
annually  takes  place  round  the  **  New  Year's  Ba',"  and  which  always  begins  at  the  ancient 
boundary,  is  in  its  origin  a  tug-of-war  between  Crown  and  Mitre. 

The  building  of  the  Cathedral  progressed  under  Kol's  supervision,  and  after  it  was 

*  Magnus  was  canonised  1135,  and  stands  high  in  the  Calendar,  as  the  first  regular  canonization 
was  that  of  Ulric,  Bishop  of  Augsburg,  by  Pope  oohn  XV.,  in  993. 

t  Saga.  X  Saga. 


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8  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

safficiently  advanced  to  allow  of  consecration,  Rognwald  and  the  Bishop  set  off  on  a  pilgrimage 
to  the  Holy  Land.  They  required,  however,  to  live  by  the  way,  and  piracy  did  not  at  all 
detract  from  the  piety  of  these  devotees  ;  on  the  contrary,  it  enabled  them  to  be  more  liberal 
in  the  practice  of  Christian  charity  :— "  Of  the  booty  we  obtain  we  shall  give  every  fiftieth 
penny  to  the  poor."  ♦ 

Soon  after  Rognwald's  departure,  Erlend,  Harald's  cousin,  aided  by  Swein  of  Gairsay, 
invaded  Orkney. 

In  hereditary  descent  this  claimant  had  a  better  right  to  the  earldom  than  had  Harald. 
They  were  both  grandsons  of  Hakon,  the  slayer  of  Magnus,  but  Erlend's  father  was  Earl 
Harald,  Hakon's  eldest  son,t  while  the  other  was  the  son  of  Hakon's  daughter,  Margaret, 
Countess  of  Athol. 

On  Michaelmas  evening,  Harald  and  his  men  saw  long  ships  approaching,  and,  suspecting 
them  to  be  enemies^  they  ran  from  the  ships  at  Scapa  into  the  Castle.  There  was  a  man 
named  Arni,  Rafn's  son,  who  ran  from  Harald's  ship  to  Kirkiuvag.  He  was  so  frightened  that 
he  forgot  that  he  had  his  shield  at  his  shoulder  until  it  stuck  fast  in  the  door,  t  The  width  of 
the  landward  doorway  is  the  only  hint  given  in  the  Saga  of  any  of  the  dimensions  of  the  EarFs 
Hall. 

That  it  was  a  place  of  considerable  strength  is  shown  in  the  context.  **  Earl  Erlend  and 
Swein  ran  from  their  ships  and  pursued  Earl  Harald  to  the  Castle,  and  attacked  them,  both 
with  arms  and  fire.  The  assailed  defended  themselves  bravely,  until  night  parted  them. 
Many  were  wounded  on  both  sides.  Next  morning  the  Boendr  and  their  mutual  friends 
arrived,  and  tried  to  make  peace  between  them."  The  end  was  that  Erlend  dispossessed 
Harald  and  ruled  all  Orkney.  However,  "  it  was  an  agreement  between  Earl  Erlend  and  the 
Boendr  that  he  should  not  hinder  Earl  Rognwald  from  taking  possession  of  that  part  of  the 
islands  which  belonged  to  him  if  it  should  be  granted  him  to  come  back "  ;  but  if  Earl 
Rognwald  should  demand  more  than  one-half  of  the  islands,  they  should  help  Earl  Erlend  to 
resist  his  claims. 

Erlend,  now  sole  ruler,  did  not  at  once  take  up  his  residence  in  the  Castle  of  Kirkwall. 
Harald  had  gone  over  to  Caithness,  and  might  return.  Swein,  Asleif's  son,  cautioned  Erlend 
not  to  trust  the  Scots.  Accordingly,  "  the  most  part  of  the  winter  they  were  on  board  their 
ships,  and  had  scouts  on  the  look-out.  Towards  Yule-tide  the  weather  began  to  grow 
boisterous,  and  Swein  went  home  to  his  estate  in  Gairsay,  and  asked  the  Earl  not  to  relax  his 
vigilance  though  they  parted.  He  remained  on  board  his  ships,  and  had  nowhere  a  Yule  feast 
prepared  for  him  in  the  Islands." 

After  three  years'  absence,  Rognwald  returned  and  came  straight  to  his  Kirkwall  resi- 
dence. 

The  pilgrimage  of  the  Earl  and  the  Bishop  had  been  successful  throughout.  They 
gathered  booty,  rode  out  a  gale  under  Candia,  arrived  at  Acre  on  a  Friday  morning,  landed 
"with  great  i)omp  and  splendour,"  visited  Jeru.salem,  went  to  Jordan  and  bathed.  Earl 
Rognwald  swam  across  the  river,  and,  finding  a  willow  bush,  twisted  in  its  branches  a 
memorial  knot.  § 

On  their  return  journey,  they  brightened  up  their  ships  and  made  them  "  look  splendid  " 
before  visiting  the  Emperor  Manuel  at  Constantinople.    Here  they  were  well  received,  and 

♦  Saga.  +  Slettinali. 

X  "  The  shield  was  suspended  by  the  Skialdurfettle,  a  shoulder  belt  or  strap  which  went  from 
the  right  side  of  the  neck  down  under  the  left  shoulder,  and  held  the  shield  when  not  actually 
required.  Figures  of  the  shield  so  borne  are  not  frequent.  Such  a  fi^re  is  given  in  Cutt's  Sepulchral 
Crosses,  Lond.,  1849,  p.  21,  from  a  gravestone  of  the  14tb  century  in  St.  Magnus  Cathedral,  Kirk- 
wall."— Stephen's  Runic  Monuments,  iii.  64.  §  Saga. 


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INTRODUCTORY.  9 

bad  tempting  offers  made  them  to  stay  and  join  the  ImiKjrial  Varangian  bodyguard.  After 
enjoying  the  gaieties  of  the  cai)ital  of  the  Eastern  Empire  for  half  the  winter,  they  set  sail  and 
came  up  the  Adriatic  to  Ai)ulia,  Here  the  Earl  and  Bishop,  with  a  few  of  their  noblest  men, 
procured  horses  and  rode  first  to  Rome,  and  then  across  the  Continent  of  Eurojie  to  Denmark 
— a  most  remarkable  feat  for  the  brave  old  priest.  No  wonder  the  Saga  adds  :-7r"  This 
journey  became  very  famous,  and  all  those  who  had  made  it  were  considered  greater  men 
afterwai'ds  than  before." 

As  the  result  of  Rognwald's  return,  a  conference  took  place  between  the  earls,  and  peace 
was  confirmed,  the  Boendr  insisting  that  their  bargain  with  Erlend  should  be  adhered  to. 
Thus,  there  were  three  earls  of  Orkney— Rognwald,  Erlend,  and  the  ousted  Harald.  But  the 
exile  came  back,  and  then  there  was  war.  At  first  it  was  each  man  for  himself,  but  by  and  by 
Kognwald  and  Harald  joined  against  Erlend.  "  Earl  Erlend  yielded  to  the  i)ersuasions  of  his 
men  that  they  should  go  to  Damsay,  and  in  a  large  castle  there  they  drank  all  day,  but 
fastened  the  ships  together  every  night  and  slept  on  board."  Here  "  the  Earls  Rognwald  and 
Harald  surprised  Earl  Erlend."  But  Erlend  personally  was  past  surprise.  "  A  man  named 
Orm,  and  another  Ufi,  were  in  the  forepart  of  the  Earl's  shij)."  When  the  assailants  were 
boarding,  "  Ufi  jumped  up  and  tried  to  rouse  the  Earl,  but  could  not,  for  he  was  dead-drunk. 
Then  he  took  him  in  his  arms  and  jumiied  overboard  with  him  into  a  boat  alongside  the 
ship.  There  Earl  Erlend  was  slain,  and  most  of  those  on  board."  Harald  returned  to  the 
Castle  of  Kirkwall,  but  Rognwald  remained  for  a  time  in  Damsay. 

After  Erlend's  death,  Swein  of  Gairsay  made  i)eace  with  the  earls,  both  of  whom  were 
glad  to  have  him  as  a  friend.  "  When  the  Earls  Harald  and  Rognwald  had  made  i)eace  ^'ith 
Swein,  Asleif's  son,  they  (the  earls)  were  always  together,  and  Earl  Rognwald  governed,  but 
they  agi-eed  very  well."  "  Earl  Rognwald  gave  Earl  Harald  the  ship  which  had  belonged  to 
Swein." 

One  day  when  Swein  was  staying  with  Rognwald  in  Kirkwall,  the  two  had  stepped  over 
from  the  Castle  to  the  Cathedral.  About  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from  the  church  door, 
where  they  stood,  on  the  shore  of  the  Vagr,  lay  Swein's  galley  preparing  for  sea.  "  The  sail, 
which  had  been  lying  in  Saint  Magnus  Church,  was  carried  out,  and  Swein  looked  rather 
gloomy."  He  had  no  share  in  the  preparations  ;  his  ship  was  the  property  of  another.  But 
at  the  sight  of  her,  old  memories  in  swift  recurrence  crowded  before  him— all  the  vicissitudes 
of  war,  triumph  and  defeat,  pursuit  and  flight ;  the  no  less  earnest  struggle  for  life  against 
winds  and  waves  and  tides,  and  in  all,  himself  the  chief  on  whose  courage  and  tact  his  mea 
relied  for  victory.    No  wonder  that  Swein  looked  gloomy. 

Though  on  the  whole  fairly  successful,  the  dual  rule  of  Rognwald  and  Harald  was  some- 
times the  source  of  discords.  Kirkwall  at  this  time  was  a  turbulent  little  village,  some  of 
the  inhabitants  regarding  themselves  as  Harald's  retainers,  while  others  were  devoted  to 
Rognwald.  Thus  "  Thorbioni  Klerk  went  to  Earl  Harald  and  became  his  counsellor.  It  was 
said  that  Thorbiorn  did  not  improve  the  harmony  between  Earl  Harald  and  Earl  Rognwald." 

"Thorarinn  Killinef  was  one  of  Earl  Rognwald's  men,  a  great  friend  of  his,  and  was 
always  with  the  Earl.  A  man  named  Thorkell  was  one  of  Thorbiorn  Klerk's  followers,  and  a 
friend  of  his.  Thorarinn  and  Thorkell  quarrelled  over  their  drink  in  Kirkwall,  and  Thorkell 
wounded  Thorarinn.  Thorarinn's  companions  pursued  Tliorkell,  but  Thorbiorn  and  his  men 
defended  themselves  in  a  loft.  The  earls  were  informed  of  this,  and  they  went  to  part  them. 
Thorbiorn  refused  to  leave  the  decision  of  the  case  to  Earl  Rognwald,  as  it  was  his  men  that 
were  concerned  in  the  pursuit.  When  Thorarinn  had  recovered  from  his  wounds,  he  slew 
Thorkell  as  he  was  going  to  church  (St.  Olaf  s).  Thorarinn  ran  into  the  church,  but  Thorbiorn 
and  his  men  pursued  him.    Earl  Roguwald  was  told  what  was  happening,  and  he  went  with 

c 


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10  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

his  men  and  asked  Thorbiorn  whether  he  was  going  to  break  the  church  open.  Thorbiom 
said  the  church  ought  not  to  shelter  him  who  was  within.  Earl  Rognwald  said  there  should 
be  no  violation  of  the  church  at  this  time,  and  Thorbiom  was  pushed  away  from  it.  No 
agreement  was  come  to  about  this  case."  But  out  of  it  arose  a  vendetta,  which  only 
terminated  in  the  deaths  of  the  principal  persons  concerned.  "Thorbiorn  went  over  to 
Caithness,  and  was  there  for  a  while,"  behaving  very  badly  both  to  men  and  women.  After  a 
time  "  he  went  out  secretly  to  the  Orkneys  in  a  boat  with  thirty  men,  and  landed  at  Scapa^ 
and  walked  to  Kirkwall  with  three  men.  In  the  evening  he  went  alone  into  an  inn  where 
Thorarinn  was  drinking,  and  struck  him  a  death-blow  immediately.  Then  he  ran  out  into  the 
darkness  and  far  away.* 

"Every  summer  the  earls  were  wont  to  go  over  to  Caithness  and  up  into  the  forests 
to  hunt  the  red  deer." 

In  1158,  "the  earls  went  over  to  Caithness  during  the  latter  part  of  the  summer  as 
usual."  At  Thurso  they  learned  that  Thorbiorn,  with  a  large  following,  meant  to  attack  them 
if  a  favourable  opportunity  offered.  Rognwald,  with  four  others  riding  well  in  front  of 
the  main  party,  came  to  a  house  close  by  which  a  farmer  was  building  a  stack  of  grain. 
Seeing  the  Earl,  "  he  saluted  him  by  name  and  asked  for  news,  si)eaking  very  loud  so  that  he 
could  be  heard  far  away.  This  was  a  short  distance  from  the  sitting-room  of  the  house." 
Thorbiorn,  who  was  within,  got  quietly  out  at  the  back  with  his  followers,  and  coming  round, 
struck  a  treacherous  blow  at  Rognwald.  Asolf,  one  of  his  four  companions,  "  warded  off  the 
blow  with  his  hand,  and  it  was  cut  off ;  and  then  the  sword  touched  the  Earl's  chin,  inflicting 
a  great  wound." 

"  On  receiving  the  blow,  Asolf  said,  *  Let  them  serve  the  Earl  better  who  have  to  thank 
him  for  greater  gifts.'  He  was  then  eighteen  winters  old,  and  had  lately  entered  the  EarFs 
service." 

"  Earl  Rognwald  was  going  to  jump  off  his  horse,  and  his  foot  stuck  fast  in  the  stirrup." 
In  that  plight  he  was  slain. 

"  Earl  Harald  brought  the  body  with  a  splendid  following  to  the  Orkneys."  It  was 
buried  in  St.  Mary's  Church,  South  Ronaldshay,  "  and  there  it  rested  until  God  manifested 
Rognwald's  merits  by  many  and  great  miracles.  Then  Bishop  Bjarni  had  his  holy  remains 
exhumed  with  the  permission  of  the  Pope."  They  w^ere  dejwsited  in  the  Cathedral,  which  he 
had  built.  A  skeleton  in  the  wall  of  the  south  choir  aisle  is  supposed  to  be  that  of  the 
chivalrous  Earl  Rognwald. 

Rognvald  was  survived  by  a  daughter  and  six  grand-children,  but  none  of  these  suc- 
ceeded to  the  earldom. 

"  After  Earl  Rognwald's  death,  Earl  Harald  took  possession  of  the  whole  of  the  islands, 
and  became  their  sole  ruler.  He  was  a  mighty  chief,  and  a  man  of  large  stature  and  great 
strength."  t  But,  deprived  of  Rognwald's  judicious  counsels,  he  sometimes  behaved  foolishly, 
and  suffered  in  consequence.  In  1194  an  attempt  to  dethrone  the  King  of  Norway  was 
organised  in  Orkney  with  Harald's  connivance.  The  insurgents  were  defeated  and*nearly  all 
slain  by  King  Sverrir.    For  his  share  in  the  rebellion,  the  Earl  was  summoned  to  Norway. 

Accompanied  by  Bishop  Bjarni,  he  appeared  before  the  King,  laid  his  head  at  the 
Monarch's  feet,  and  appealed  for  pardon.  Possibly  through  the  Bishop's  influence,  Sverrir 
allowed  Harald  to  return  to  Orkney,  but  to  mark  his  sense  of  the  magnitude  of  the  crime,  the 
King  deprived  him  of  the  whole  of  Shetland. 

The  Saga  shows  Earl  Harald  at  the  social  board,  and  records  some  of  his  table  talk, 

*  Saga.  +  Saga. 


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INTRODUCTORY.  11 

Harald  and  Swein,  Asleifs  son,  were  very  friendly;  indeed,  the  heroic  chief  of  Qairsay 
undertook  the  training  of  one  of  the  EarPs  sons. 

"Once  it  happened  that  Swein  went  out  on  a  spring  expedition,  taking  with  hin* 
Hakon,  the  son  of  Harald.  They  had  five  rowing  ships,  all  large.  They  went  to  Ireland  and 
plundered  there,  but  when  they  came  to  Dyflin  (Dublin),  two  merchant  ships  came  from 
England,  laden  with  English  cloth  and  other  merchandise.  Swein  made  for  the  vessels,  and 
offered  them  battle.  There  was  little  resistance  by  the  English,  and  Swein's  party  took  every^ 
penny  in  the  vessels,  leaving  to  the  Englishmen  only  what  they  stood  in  and  a  small  quantity 
of  provisions.    They  sailed  from  the  west  with  great  pomp." 

"  Swein  used  to  reside  at  home  in  Gairsay  in  winter,  keeping  eighty  men  at  his  own 
expense.  He  had  such  a  large  drinking  hall  that  there  was  none  equal  to  it  anywhere  else  in 
the  Orkneys.'' 

'^  He  had  taken  a  large  quantity  of  wine  and  English  mead  from  the  vessels  in  Dublin 
Bay.  When  he  had  been  at  home  a  short  time,  he  invited  Earl  Harald  and  prepared  a 
splendid  feast  for  him.  When  Earl  Harald  w^as  at  the  feast  a  great  deal  was  said  of  Swein'a 
magnificence.  The  Earl  said  :— *  I  wish,  Swein,  you  would  leave  off  your  marauding  expedi- 
tions ;  it  is  good  now  to  drive  home  a  whole  wagon.  You  know  that  your  plundering  has. 
fed  you  and  your  men  a  long  time,  but  to  most  men  of  violence  it  happens  that  they  perish  in 
their  raiding  if  they  do  not  leave  it  off  in  time.' " 

Swein  looked  to  the  Earl,  and  replied,  smiling,  "  This  is  well  said,  my  lord ;  you  have 
spoken  like  a  friend,  and  it  is  good  to  take  sound  advice  from  you  ;  but  some  complain  that 
you  are  not  an  over  just  man  yourself." 

The  Earl  replied  :  "  I  must  be  responsible  for  my  own  acts,  but  I  spoke  as  it  occurred  to- 
me." 

Swein  answered  :  "  Your  intention  is  no  doubt  good,  my  lord  ;  and  it  shall  be  so  that  I 
will  discontinue  my  marauding  expeditions,  for  I  am  getting  old  and  my  strength  is  wasting' 
away  in  the  wet  work  and  the  fighting.  I  am  now  going  to  make  an  autumn  expedition,  and 
I  wish  it  to  be  not  less  glorious  than  the  spring  one.    Then  I  shall  leave  off  war-going." 

Said  the  Earl  :  "  It  is  difficult  to  know,  comrade,  which  comes  first,  death  or  lasting  fame."^ 

Then  their  conversation  ceased.  When  Earl  Harald  left  the  feast,  honourable  gifts  were 
presented  to  him,  and  he  and  Swein  parted  very  good  friends. 

Swein  did  not  "  drive  home  a  whole  wagon."  He  attacked  Dublin  and  took  it.  After 
imposing  conditions  which  the  Dublin  men  swore  to  observe,  the  invaders  returned  to  their 
ships  for  the  night. 

The  Irishmen  made  good  use  of  the  darkness.  They  dug  pits  inside  the  gates  and  in  the 
places  where  Swein  and  his  lieutenants  would  be  likely  to  lead  their  crews.  These  they 
covered  with  light  material,  strewing  straw  all  over. 

"  Swein  and  his  men,  not  being  on  their  guard,  fell  into  them.  Some  of  the  townsmea 
ran  immediately  to  the  gates,  and  others  to  the  pits,  and  attacked  Swein's  men  with  weapons* 
It  was  difficult  for  them  to  defend  themselves,  and  Swein  perished  there  in  the  pit  with  all 
those  who  entered  the  town.  It  was  said  that  he  spoke  these  words  before  his  fall :  *  Know 
all  men,  whether  I  die  today  or  not,  that  I  am  the  holy  Earl  Rognwald's  henchman,  and  my 
confidence  is  where  he  is,  with  God.*  Here  is  the  end  of  Swein's  history  ;  and  it  has  been 
said  that  he  was  the  greatest  man  in  the  western  lands,  either  in  old  times  or  at  the  present 
day,  of  those  who  had  not  a  higher  title  than  he  had." 

Harald  Maddadson  became  earl  of  half  of  Orkney  in  1139.  After  the  death  of  Earl 
Rognwald,  in  1158,  he  was  sole  ruler  till  he  died  in  1206,  a  remarkable  length  of  reign  in  such 
troublous  times. 


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12  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Two  sons,  David  and  John,  now  occupied  Kirlcwall  Castle,  these  i)oth  died  without 
male  issue,  but  a  daughter  of  the  latter,  or  perhnps  a  sister,  had  married  Oilbride,  Earl  of 
Angus,  and  their  son,  Magnus,  became  Earl  of  Orkney,  1231. 

There  were  seven  earls  of  the  Angus  line,  the  last  of  whom,  Magnus  V.,  was  the  greatest. 

As  Caithness  was  included  in  his  earldom,  he  owed  allegiance  equally  to  Norway  and  to 
Scotland,  and  at  both  Courts  he  was  held  in  high  esteem. 

"  It  was  in  his  time,  and  perhaps  in  his  favour,  that  the  King  of  Norway  prohibited  any 
within  his  kingdom  to  bear  the  title  of  earl  except  the  King's  sons  and  the  Earls  of  Orkney."* 

David,  Bishop  of  Norway,  a  partisan  of  the  Bruce,  was  excommunicated  by  the  Papal 
•  Legate  in  England,  Canlinul  St.  Sabinus,  for  condoning  the  sacrilegious  slaughter  of  Comyn 
in  the  church  of  Dumfries.  He  found  a  refuge  in  Orkney,  and  Edward  I.  addressed  a  letter 
to  King  Haco  of  Norway  calling  for  his  arrest.  The  negotiations  were  proceeding  when 
Edward  died,  1307,  and  David  returned  to  his  See.  The  probability  is,  that  had  Haco  yielded 
to  Edward's  desire,  Magnus  would  have  resisted  the  Bishop's  extradition. 

In  1312,  Earl  Magnus  was  at  Inverness  when  King  Robert  the  Bruce  and  Hakon  V.  of 
Norway  renewed  between  their  countries  the  treaty  which  had  been  concluded  at  Perth,  1266, 
between  Alexander  III.  of  Scotland  and  Magnus  IV.  of  Norway.  By  this  treaty  the  Hebrides 
and  Man  were  ceded  to  Scotland,  while  Orkney  and  Shetland  were  retained  by  Norway. 
A  very  important  term  in  that  treaty  was  that  Scotland  should  pay  four  thousand  inerks 
within  four  years,  aud  one  hundred  mei-ks  annually  in  perpetuity.  This  yearly  tribute,  known 
as  the  Annual  of  Norway,  was  to  be  paid  over  in  St.  Magnus  Cathedral  into  the  hands  of  the 
Bishop  of  Orkney. 

In  1314,  Magnus,  as  liegeman  of  the  Bruce,  was  one  of  "  the  warriors  of  the  hardy  North" 
who  fought  at  Bannockburn. 

To  the  men  of  Orkney  this  battle  had  no  national  interest,  and  those  of  them  who  were 
present  were  there  as  the  Norse  followers  of  this  earl,  a  reinforcement  of  his  Caithness  con- 
tingent. 

In  1320,  Magnus  was  one  of  the  eight  earls  who,  along  with  thirty-one  barons  and  others 
representing  the  whole  community  of  Scotland,  subscribed  and  sent  the  famous  letter  to  the 
Pope,  in  which,  while  respectfully  asserting  the  independeiice  of  their  country,  which  the 
Pontiff  had  hitherto  refused  to  acknowledge,  they  earnestly  requested  to  be  reconciled  to  the 
Romish  See.t  Before  this  time  the  Archbishop  of  York  and  the  Bishops  of  London  and 
Carlisle  had  standing  orders  from  Rome  to  excommunicate  Bruce  and  his  accomplices  on  every 
Sabbath  and  festival  day  throughout  the  year.J 

The  hostility  of  the  Pope  was  no  doubt  purchased  by  England,  but  the  excuse  for  it  lay, 
not  in  the  war  of  independence,  but  in  the  killing  of  Comyn  in  the  Greyfriars'  Church  in 
Dumfries,  February  1306. 

•  Barry.  +  Rymer,  quoted  by  Tytler,  i.  369. 

X  This  famous  letter  was  adopted  by  the  Scottish  Parliament  sitting  in  Arbroath  Abbey,  6th 
April  1320.  It  is  a  most  powerful  protest  agaiust  th6  Pope's  reco^ition  of  England's  chdm  of 
.supremacy.  It  acknowledges  the  great  services  which  their  beloved  King  had  rendered  in  securing 
the  independence  of  his  country,  but  adds — "  If  this  prince  shall  leave  tjiese  principles  he  hath  so 
nobly  pursued,  and  consent  that  we  or  our  kingdom  be  subjected  to  the  king  or  people  of  England, 
we  will  immediately  endeavour  to  expel  him  as  our  enemy."  "  For  it  is  not  glory,  it  is  not  riches, 
neither  is  it  honour,  but  it  is  liberty  alone  that  we  fight  for,  which  no  honest  man  will  lose  but  with 
his  life."  It  pleads  to  the  Pope,  with  air  hu'mility,  **from  bended  knees  and  hearts."  There  is, 
however,  no  servility.  "  But  if  your  Holiness  shall  be  too  credulous  of  the  English  misrepresenta- 
tions, we  must  believe  that  the  Most  Hi^h  will  lay  to  your  charge  all  the  blood,-  loss  bf  souls,  and 
other  calamities  that  shall  follow."  This  memorial  had  a  strong  effect  at  Rome.  The  duplicate, 
which  was  retained,  is  still  preserved  in  the  Register  House  in  Edinburgh.  *    *  - 


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INTRODUCTaRY.  l8 

Magnus  left  no  son  to  succeed  him,  and  the  Angus  line  of  earls  became  extinct ;  but  a 
"daughter,  Isabella,-  had  married  Malise,  Earl  of  Striatherne,  and  her  son,-  Maltse,  wa»  tlie  first 
of  the  Stratherne  line.  In  point  of  fact,  he  was  the  only  one  of  his  race  that  ruled  Orkney. 
ile  was  twice  married,  aiid  had  five  daug;hters,  but  no  son  came  to  perpetuate  his  name. 

On  the  death  of  Malise,  Earl  of  Stratherne,  the  husband  of  his  third  daughter,  Agnetta,  a 
Swedish  noble,  Emgils  Sunoson,  got  the  title  of  Earl  of  Orkney  from  Magnus  III.  of  Norway, 
1353.    In  1357  he  was  deposed  by  the  same  monarch  and  his  estates  confiscated. 

In  1364,  Thomas  St.  Clair  occupied  Kirkwall  Castle  as  representative  of  the  King  of 
Norway. 

In  1379,  Henry  St.  Clair,  son  of  Elizabeth,  youngest  daughter  of  Malise  of  Stratherne,  was 
preferred  to  the  earldom,  the  first  of  an  illustrious  dynasty  which  lasted  for  ninety  years. 

"  The  St.  Clairs  are  of  Norman  extraction,  being  descended  from  Williem  de  St.  Clair, 
second  son  of  Walderne  Compte  de  St.  Clair,  and  Margaret,  daughter  to  Richard,  Duke  of 
Normandy.  He  was  called  for  his  fair  deportment  the  Seemly  St.  Clair,  and,  settling  in 
Scotland  during  the  reign  of  Malcolm  Caenmore,  obtained  large  grants  of  land  in  Mid- 
Lothian." 

"  These  domains  were  increased  by  the  liberality  of  succeeding  monarchs  to  the  descend- 
ants of  the  family,  and  comprehended  the  baronies  of  Rosline,  Pentland,  Cowsland,  Cardaine, 
and  several  others.  It  is  said  that  a  large  addition  was  obtained  from  Robert  Bruce  on  the 
following  occasion.  The, King,  in  following  the  chase  upon  Pentland  Hills,  had  often  started 
a  white  faunch  deer,  which  had  always  escaped  from  his  hounds  ;  and  he  asked  the  nobles,  who 
were  assembled  around  him,  whether  any  of  them  had  dogs  which  they  thought  would  be  more 
successful.  No  courtier  would  affirm  that  his  hounds  were  fleeter  than  those  of  the  King, 
until  Sir  William  St.  Clair  of  Rosline  unceremoniously  said  he  would  wager  his  head  that  his 
two  favourite  dogs,  Help  and  Hold,  would  kill  the  deer  before  she  would  cross  the  march 
burn.  The  King  instantly  caught  at  his  unwary  offer,  and  betted  the  forest  of  Pentland  Moor 
against  the  life  of  Sir  William  St.  Clair.  All  the  hounds  were  tied  up,  except  a  few  ratches  or 
slow  hounds  to  put  up  the  deer ;  while  Sir  William  St.  Clair,  posting  himself  in  the  best 
situation  for  slipping  his  dogs,  prayed  devoutly  to  Christ,  the  blessed  Virgin,  and  St 
Katherine.  The  deer  was  shortly  after  roused  and  the  hounds  slipped,  Sir  William  following 
on  a  gallant  steed  to  cheer  his  dogs.  The  hind,  however,  reached  the  middle  of  the  brook, 
upon  which  the  hunter  threw  himself  from  his  horse  in  despair.  At  this  critical  moment, 
however,  Hold  stopped  her  in  the  brook,  and  Help  coming  up,  turned  her  back  and  killed  her 
on  Sir  William's  side.  The  King  descended  from  the  hill,  embraced  Sir  William,  and 
bestowed  on  him  the  lands  of  Kirk  ton,  Logan  House,  Earncraig,  &c.,  in  free  forestrie,"* 

This  adventurous  huntsman  married  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Malise,  Earl  of  Orkney  and 
Stratherne,  in  whose  right  their  son,  Henry,  was  created  Earl  of  Orkney. 

"  Although  the  EarLs  of  Orkney  had  precedence  of  all  the  titled  nobility  of  Norway,  and 
their  signatures  to  the  national  documents  stand  always  after  the  Archbishops  and  before 
the  Bishops  and  nobles,  though  the  title  was  the  only  one  permitted  in  Norway  to  a  subject 
not  of  the  blood  royal,  yet  it  was  now  declared  to  be  subject  to  the  royal  option  of  inve8titure."t 

Haco  VI.  of  Norway,  in  investing  Henry  St.  Clair  in  the  earldom  of  Orkney,  fully  recog- 
nised the  fact  that  the  earls  of  Orkney  were  now  liegemen  of  the  Kings  of  Scotland,  and  that 
they  had  shown  a  disposition  to  be  independent  of  both  their  suzerains. 

Accordingly,  this  investiture  was  granted  under  very  stringent  conditions,  ainong  others, 
that  the  Earl  should  take  no  part  with  the  Bishop  of  Orkney  to  the  King's  prejudice,  or  enter 

*  Father  Hay.  t  Dr  Anderson,  Saga,  Int.,  p.  64. 


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14 


KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


into  any  contract  with  him  without  the  Ring's  permission  ;  and  that  he  should  build  no  fort 
or  castle  within  the  precincts  of  the  earldom  without  the  Royal  assent.  In  face  of  these 
conditions,  Henry  St.  Clair,  circa  1380,  cleared  away  the  old  Hall  of  the  Norse  earls  and  built 
a  stronghold  suited  to  the  military  requirements  of  the  time,  and  of  a  style  fitting  the  occupa- 
tion of  one  of  the  most  important  feudal  barons  of  his  day. 


Seal  of  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  1675. 


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CHAPTER  II. 

The  Castle. 

fF  the  Castle  was  built  without  permission  of  the  Ring  of  Norway,  Earl  Henry  had  a  ready 
excuse,  that,  as  he  could  not  make  a  league  with  the  bishops,  he  required  a  place  of 
residence,  at  least  equal  in  strength  to  their  palace,  which  had  accommodation  for  a 
large  garrison. 

Evidently  the  King  and  the  Bishop  had  not  been  on  good  terms,  and  possibly  the  church- 
man transferred  his  grudge  from  the  King  to  the  Earl.  If  he  did  so  he  was  worsted,  for  in 
1382,  without  any  detail  of  circumstances,  "  there  came  the  mournful  tidings  that  Bishop 
William  was  slain  in  the  Orkneys." 

When  St.  Clair  came  to  his  earldom  he  found  that  the  islands  had  suffered  much,  and 
were  then  suffering  from  the  depredations  of  Scottish  rovers;  Accordingly,  he  used  his 
influence  at  Court  in  favour  of  his  new  subjects,  and  obtained  from  the  King  a  proclamation 
prohibiting,  under  heavy  penalties,  any  Scotsman  resorting  to  Orkney  except  for  lawful  trade, 
and  this  mandate,  with  the  EarFs  vigilance,  had  the  desired  effect 

During  the  rule  of  this  earl  the  three  Scandinavian  kingdoms — Denmark,  Norway,  and 
Sweden — were  joined  under  one  crown. 

Margaret,  daughter  of  Waldemar  of  Denmark,  a  brave,  clever,  energetic  woman,  married 
Haco  y.  of  Norway.  Haco  and  Margaret  had  one  son,  Olaf,  who  succeeded  his  grandfather, 
Waldemar,  on  the  throne  of  Denmark.  Shortly  afterwards  Haco  of  Norway  died,  and  Olaf 
would  have  become  king,  but  the  Norwegians,  who  did  not  want  a  boy  ten  years  of  age  on  the 
throne,  placed  the  crown  on  Margaret's  head.  Shortly  afterwards  Olaf  died,  and  in  the 
absence  of  a  male  heir,  Margaret  became  Queen  of  Denmark  also.  Then  the  Swedes,  dis- 
satisfied with  their  King,  Albert  of  Mecklenburg,  invited  Margaret  to  depose  him  and  take  the 
throne.  This  she  did,  doubtless  with  much  pleasure,  and  became  Queen  of  the  North.  The 
union  of  the  three  kingdoms  was  sealed  at  Calmar,  1397,  and  Copenhagen  became  the  capital. 
From  this  historic  accident,  Orkney  and  Shetland,  which  had  hitherto  belonged  to  Norway, 
came  now  to  be  regarded  as  pertaining  to  Denmark. 

That  such  a  union  was  possible,  apart  from  conquest,  was  undoubtedly  owing  to  the 
amount  of  popular  literature  common  to  the  three  countries. 

Laing  says—"  It  would  be  a  curious  subject  for  the  political  philosopher  to  examine  what 
have  been  the  effects  of  the  literature  of  a  people  upon  their  social  conditions.  The  literature 
of  the  Northmen  kept  alive  the  common  feeling  and  mind— the  common  sense  in  matters  of 
common  interest  which  grow  up  into  national  institutions.  They  had  a  literature  of  their 
own,  however  barbarous,  had  laws,  institutions,  and  social  arrangements  of  their  own,  and  all 
these,  through  a  common  language,  influenced  and  formed  a  common  mind  in  all.''  * 

•  Sea  Kings  of  Norway,  i.  66. 


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16  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Henry,  the  castle  builder,  was  succeeded  in  the  earldom  by  his  son,  Henry  IL,  a  most 
accomplished  nobleman.  His  'Mittle  Court  of  Orkney  was  the  most  elegant  and  refined  in 
Europe,  and  adorned  with  the  official  services  of  many  proud  Scottish  nobles.  Half  a  century 
before  Columbus  commenced  his  baffling  search  for  a  patron  among  the  sovereigns  of  Europe, 
the  Venetian  navigator,  Zenoni,  had  been  commissioned  by  Earl  Henry  to  retrace  the  footsteps 
of  the  early  Scandinavian  discoverers  of  the  western  world."  * 

The  Earl's  neighbours,  the  Bishop  of  Orkney  and  the  dignitaries  of  the  Cathedral, 
represented  the  scholarship  of  the  age,  which,  combined  with  the  feudal  splendour  of  the  St. 
Clairs,  made  Kirkwall  at  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century  the  most  brilliant  capital  in 
northern  Europe. 

To  Earl  Henry,  Robert  III.  of  Scotland  committed  the  charge  of  his  second  son,  Prince 
James,  after  the  more  than  suspicious  death  at  Falkland  of  the  Crown  Prince,  David,  Duke  of 
Rothesay.  Eearing  lest  the  ambitious  Albany  should  secure  the  crown  for  himself  by  the 
^removal  of  his  remaining  son,  the  old  King  sent  the  youth  off  to  France  under  the  charge  of 
the  Earl  of  Orkney.  But  the  voyage  proved  disastrous.  Through  the  intrigues  of  Albany, 
Henry  IV.  of  England  was  induced  to  send  a  vessel  to  intercept  them,  arid  their,  ship  waa 
captured  off  Flamborough  Head  by  an  armed  merchantman  belonging  to  the  port  of  Wye.  f 
The  Prince  and  his  retinue  were  carried  prisoners  to  London.  In  security,  if  in  captivity,  the 
royal  youth  was  for  nineteen  years  detained  in  England,  receiving  meanwhile  such  a  training 
as  befitted  the  heir  to  Scotland's  throne. 

Earl  Henry  was  allowed  his  freedom,  on  leaving  his  brother  John  a  hostage  for  his  return, 
and  thus,  in  a  manner  bound  to  both  courts,  he  made  repeated  journeys  from  one  to  the  other. 
in  his  frequent  absences  from  Kirkwall  his  grandmother  held  the  castle  and  ruled  the. 
earldom. 

He  married  Egidia,  daughter  of  Lord  William  Douglas,  grand -daughter  of  Robert  II.  of 
Scotland,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  William,  the  first  of  the  family  to  give  his  name  the* 
form  of  Sinclair.  Earl  William  found  employment  enough  at  the  Scottish  Court  to  make  him 
careless  of  seeking  infeftment  at  the  hands  of  the  King  of  Denmark.  He  visited  Prince  James 
in  his  captivity  in  England,  and,  when  the  young  King  returned  to  Scotland,  was  one  of  the 
splendid  train  that  met  him  at  Durham. 

But  King  Eric  became  impatient,  and  felt  himself  bound  to  resent  Earl  William's 
carelessness  in  the  matter  of  homage.  He  did  so  by  raising  a  doubt  as  to  the  validity  of  the 
St.  Clair  title,  and  he  only  granted  investiture  when,  in  1434,  Bishop  Tulloch  and  his  clergy, 
after  careful  genealogical  research,  produced  a  "  Diploma "  showing  the  title  to  be  unassail- 
able.! 

In  1448,  Christian  I.  ascended  the  Danish  throne. 

In  145.5,  Bishop  Thomas  died  and  was  succeeded  by  his  cousin,  William  Tulloch. 

"Tulloch,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  a  Scotsman  and  a  prelate  of  high  accomplishments  and 
great  suavity  of  manners,  enjoyed  the  friendship  and  esteem  of  Christian,  King  of  Denmark 
and  Norway,  and  api>ears  to  have  been  entrusted  by  this  northern  potentate  with  a  consider- 
able share  in  the  government  of  these  islands."  § 

If  Eric  had  been  doubtful  of  the  loyalty  of  the  St.  Clairs,  Christian  had  no  less  reason  to 
be  dissatisfied.  After  this  king  had  been  thirteen  years  on  the  throne,  Bishop  William  was' 
good  enough  to  apologise  for  the  negligent  earl  on  the  ground  that,  having  been  appointed  one 
of  the  regents  of  the  kingdom  during  the  minority  of  James  III.,  his  presence  was  required  at' 

•  Balfour  Mem.  for  Ork.,  p.  27." 
t  Tytler  quoting  Walsingbam  aod  Winton,  iii.  154.  J  Barry.  §  Tytler,  iv.  216. 


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XHK  CASTLE.  17 

the  Scottish  Court,  and,  therefore,  he  could  not  go  to  Coi^enhagen  to  take  the  oath  of 
allegiance. 

His  attendance  at  Court  necessarily  prevented  the  EarFs  residence  in  Orkney,  but,  after 
years  of  neglect,  he  at  length  sent  his  son  to  occupy  Kirkwall  Castle. 

This  young  man,  known  in  the  family  records  as  William  the  Waster,  found  a  churchman 
exercising  secular  rule  over  hLs  father's  lands,  and  at  once  proceeded  to  make  history,  not 
merely  for  Orkney,  but  for  Scotland  and  for  Europe.  Great  must  have  been  the  excitement 
in  Kirkwall  when  the  reckless  "Waster"  carried  the  suave  Bishop  from  the  Palace  to  the 
Castle.  Great  also  must  have  been  the  wrath  of  King  Christian  when  the  tidings  reached 
Coi)enhagen  that  "  the  prelate  had  been  seized  and  shut  up  in  prison  by  a  son  of  the  Earl  of 
Orkney,  who  showed  no  dis[>osition  to  interfere  for  his  liberation."  * 

A  dignitary  of  the  Scandinavian  Church,  the  royal  representative  in  the  province,  and  an 
esteemed  personal  friend,  incarcerated  by  a  Scottish  lordling,  was  a  national  and  a  personal 
insult  which  King  Christian  could  not  brook.  He  directed  letters  to  the  Scottish  Court 
remonstrating  against  the  treatment  of  the  Bishop,  demanding  his  immediate  liberation,  and 
intimating  that  he  would  not  tolerate  the  oppression  of  his  lieges  in  Orkney  by  any  of  the 
subjects  of  the  King  of  Scotland.  To  add  weight  to  his  ])rotest,  he  demanded  payment  of 
all  arrears  of  the  "  Annual  of  Norway." 

This  tax,  though  only  a  hundred  merks  yearly,  had  remained  unpaid  for  nearly  a  couple 
of  centuries,  so  that  the  amount  now  due,  principal  and  interest,  formed  a  very  embarrassing 
claim  \i\)on  the  never  overflowing  Scottish  exchetiuer.  In  sending  in  his  account,  the  royal 
creditor  expressed  the  hoi)e  that  the  friendly  relations  of  the  two  kingdoms  might  not  be 
disturbed,  but  the  very  utterance  of  such  a  hoi)e  showed  that  Denmark  contemplated  a 
possible  rupture. 

In  this  complication  both  parties  agreed  to  settle  their  differences  by  arbitration,  and 
placed  the  case  in  the  hands  of  Charles  VII.  of  France.  This  monarch,  valuing  the  alliance 
of  Denmark  and  of  Scotland,  gave  the  weighty  question  his  earnest  consideration.  Hi* 
finding  was  that,  as  the  young  King  of  Scotland  was  of  an  age  f  to  marry,  and  as  the  King  of 
Denmark  had  a  daughter  of  suitable  years,  international  differences  should  be  forgotten  in  the 
rejoicings  of  a  royal  wedding.  Tlie  award  was  accei)ted,  and  James  III.  married  Margaret  of 
Denmark. 

In  the  drawing  of  the  marriage  settlement,  the  Scottish  ambassadors  secured  remarkably 
liberal  terms  for  the  bridegroom.  Scotland's  heavy  debt  to  Denmark  was  cancelled,  while  the 
Princess  brought  with  her  a  dowry  of  sixty  thousand  florins.  Of  this  sum  ten  thousand  were 
to  be  paid  at  once,  and  the  Orkney  Islands  were  to  be  held  in  imwn  by  Scotland  till  the 
remaining  fifty  thousand  florins  should  be  forthcoming. 

But  when  it  came  to  the  payment  of  the  ten  thousand  florins.  Christian  found  that  he 
could  only  disburse  two  thousand,  and  he  gave  Shetland  in  pledge  for  the  balance.  Thus 
Orkney  and  Shetland,  which  had  been  lost  to  Scotland  in  the  ninth  century  by  a  process  of 
Scandinavian  immigration,  were  in  1468  restored  by  this  impignoration  ;  for  the  question  of 
their  redemption  has  long  since  passed  beyond  the  range  of  practical  diplomacy.  And  it 
should  not  be  forgotten  that  this  restoration,  and  the  wedding  which  brought  it  about, 
resulted  from  the  rough  play  between  Bishop  Tulloch  and  young  Sinclair  on  the  streets  of 
Kirkwall. 

In  1471,  William  St.  Clair  exchanged  his  earldom  of  Orkney  for  a  grant  of  the  lands  and 
castle  of  Ravenscraig  in  Fife,  and  an  Act  was  passed  annexing  the  islands  to  the  Scottish 

•  Tytler.  iv.  215. 
t  James  had  barely  completed  his  eighteenth  year,  and  Margaret  was  just  sixteen. 


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18  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Crown,  "  nocht  to  be  given  away  in  time  to  com  to  na  jHjrsain  or  i)ersaini8  excep  alenarily  to 
ane  of  the  king's  sonnia  of  lauchful  lied."  The  exchange  of  Orkney  for  Ravenscraig  was  so 
une<iual  as  to  be  really  a  confiscation,  and  as  such  it  wa«  regarded  by  the  St.  Clairs.  In  1715, 
when  John,  Master  of  St.  Clair,  wa«  |)assing  into  exile  for  his  share  in  the  rebellion,  he  made 
some  stay  in  Kirkwall,  and  remarks  : — "  I  had  occasion  to  entertain  myself  at  Kirkwall  with 
the  melancholy  prosjKJct  of  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle,  the  seat  of  the  old  earls  of  Orkney,  my 
ancestors  ;  and  of  a  more  melancholy  reflection  of  so  great  and  noble  an  estate  a>s  the  Orkney 
and  Shetland  Isles  being  taken  from  one  of  them  by  James  the  Third  for  faultrie,  after  his 
brother  Alexander,  Duke  of  Albany,  had  married  a  daughter  of  my  family,  and  for  protecting 
and  defending  the  said  Alexander  against  the  King,  who  wished  to  kill  him  as  he  had  done  his 
youngest  brother,  the  Earl  of  Mar,  and  for  w^hich,  after  the  forfaultrie,  he  gratefully  divorced 
my  forfaulted  ancestor's  sister  ;  though  I  cannot  persuade  myself  that  he  had  any  misalliance 
to  plead  against  a  familie  in  whose  veins  the  blood  of  Robert  Bruce  ran  as  fresh  as  in  his 
own." 

This  not  only  ])roves  the  confiscation,  but  gives  the  cause. 

William  St.  Clair,  as  Earl  of  Orkney,  was  sufficiently  jxiwerful  to  interfere  in  the  private 
aflfairs  of  the  royal  family,  and  could  uphold  a  meml)er  of  that  family  whom  the  King  had 
resolved  to  cast  down  ;  but  William  St.  Clair,  as  the  Laird  of  Ravenscraig,  was  weak  and  as 
another  man.    Of  the  style  this  Earl  maintained  in  E<linburgh  "we  have  a  description  : — 

''In  the  Blackfriars  Wynd  the  semi-royal  house  of  Sinclair  had  a  mansion. 

"  They  were  Princes  and  Earls  of  Orkney,  Lords  of  Roslin,  Dukes  of  Oldenburg,  and  had 
a  list  of  titles  that  has  been  noted  for  its  almost  Spanish  tediousness.  In  his  magnificence 
Earl  William — who  built  Roslin  Chapel,  was  High  Chancellor  in  1453,  and  ambassador  to 
England  in  the  same  year— far  surpassed  what  has  often  sufficed  for  the  Kings  of  Scotland. 

"  His  Princess,  Margaret  Douglas,  daughter  of  Archibald,  Duke  of  Touraine,  according  to 
Father  Hay  in  his  *  Genealogie  of  the  Sainte  Claires  of  Rosslyn,'  was  waited  uix)n  by  seventy- 
five  gentlewomen,  whereof  fifty-three  were  daughters  of  noblemen,  all  clothed  in  velvets  and 
silks  with  their  chains  of  gold  and  other  pertinents,  together  wnth  two  hundred  riding 
gentlemen  who  accompanied  her  in  all  her  journeys.  She  had  carried  before  her  when  she 
went  to  Edinburgh  eighty  lighted  torches,  so  that,  in  a  word,  none  matched  her  in  all  the 
country  save  the  Queen's  Majesty."  * 

Father  Hay  tells  us  too  that  "  Earl  William  kept  a  great  court,  and  w^as  royally  served  at 
his  own  table  in  vessels  of  gold  and  silver.  Lord  Dirleton  being  his  master  of  the  household, 
Lord  Borthwick  his  cup  bearer,  and  Lord  Fleming  his  carver,  in  whose  absence  they  had 
deputies,  viz. : — Stewart,  Laird  of  Drumlanrig ;  Tweedie,  Laird  of  Drumelzier ;  and  Sandi- 
lands.  Laird  of  Calder.  He  had  his  halls  and  other  apartments  richly  adorned  with 
embroidered  hangings." 

That  this  magnificence  was  not  exhibited  to  the  full  in  Kirkwall  Castle  must  be  admitted  ; 
but  even  on  a  deputy,  and  esi»ecially  if  that  deputy  were  a  son,  there  would  be  from  the 
I)aternal  centre  a  strong  reflected  s])lendour. 

William  Sinclair  was  the  last  of  the  hereditary  earls  of  Orkney.  Back  through  the 
Stratherne  family,  through  the  house  of  Angus,  and  through  centuries  of  Norse  ancestors,  he 
could  trace  his  descent  from  Sigurd  the  First,  the  liegeman  of  Harold  Haarfager.  He  was 
also  the  last  to  hold  the  fief  from  a  Scandinavian  suzerain. 

After  the  confiscation,  the  earldom  lands  were  leased  to  Bishop  Tulloch,  and  on  his 
translation  to  the  See  of  Moray  the  lease  was  continued  to  Andrew,  the  first  prelate  of 
Scottish  appointment,  and  with  the  lands  was  given  the  keeping  of  the  Castle  of  Kirkwall. 
•  "  Edinburgh  in  the  Olden  Time,"  Wilson.  ' 


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THE   CASTLK.  19 

Barry  refers  to  a  stone  in  front  of  the  building  carved  with  arms  and  a  mitre.*  If  such  a 
stone  existed  it  probably  dated  from  the  rule  of  one  of  these  two  churchmen. 

In  the  absence,  or  rather  in  the  non-existence,  of  an  earl,  Bishop  Andrew  secured  for  the 
bishopric  a  royal  charter  erecting  it  into  a  regality,  thus  making  himself  and  hLs  successors,  in 
their  civil  jiu-isdiction,  independent  of  the  earldom  courts,  t 

In  thus  procuring  a  separate  right  of  "  pit  and  gallows,"  he  was  doubtless  simply  restoring 
the  bishopric  to  the  position  it  had  held  under  Scandinavian  sway.  This  charter  was 
confirmed  by  another  eleven  years  later.  Tudor  says  that  the  two  bishops,  during  their  leases, 
increased  the  estate  of  the  bishopric  at  the  exi)ense  of  the  earldom,  and  this  is  fully  borne  out 
by  the  rentals.  The  Bishop  took  to  himself  the  scat  which  in  many  cases  should  have  been 
paid  to  the  King. 

"  I  knaw  nocht  quha  aw  the  land  male  hierof,  bot  the  scats  suld  be  the  kingis,  and  thai  ar 
withhaldin  be  the  bischop  in  my  time,  xxij.  yeiris  bigane."  J 

"  Langscale  (Rousay)  was  evir  to  the  Kingis  scattis  quhilk  is  haldin  be  the  bischop 
(Andrew)  in  all  my  tyme  bigane,  and  Bischop  William,  quhen  he  had  our  Soverane  Lordis 
lands  in  tak,  was  the  first  that  evier  began  to  tak  ony  of  the  kingis  scattis  contenit  in  this 
buik."  § 

Many  similar  entries  prove  that  these  two  pious  churchmen  added  largely  to  their 
incomes  by  systematic  frauds  on  the  royal  exchetiuer. 

It  is  somewhat  remarkable  that,  during  the  episcopate  of  a  man  of  Andrew's  influence, 
the  King  should,  in  the  burgh  charter,  1486,  hand  over  to  the  newly-constituted  corporation 
the  care  of  the  Cathedral  building,  and  the  api)ointment  of  parish  schoolmaster,  two  matters 
which  were  certainly  prerogatives  of  the  Church,  and  which  for  a  couple  of  centuries  after  the 
granting  of  the  charter  remained  in  the  hands  of  the  clergy  unquestioned  by  the  Town 
Council. 

The  charter  marks  the  initiation  of  a  new  jwwer  in  the  town,  the  power  of  the  |)eople. 
Hitherto  the  Castle  and  the  Palace,  conjointly  or  separately,  had  ruled  Kirkwall,  but  from 
this  time  the  Town  House  loomed  in  the  future  as  an  institution  of  greater  public  importance 
than  either.  It  is  well  to  keep  in  mind  what  the  burgh  w^as  when  this  charter  was  granted- 
It  was  still  the  triangular  village  situated  between  the  Burn  of  Pabdale  and  the  bay.  What 
importance  it  had  was  gathered  from  its  relations  with  the  aristocratic  suburban  community, 
the  Earl  and  his  Court,  the  Bishop  and  his  retinue,  and  the  other  dignitaries  of  the  Church, 
with  their  necessary  establishments.  Many  of  these  were  immigrants,  who  brought  with 
them  from  the  outer  world  tastes  which  could  only  be  gratified  through  a  maritime  trade  with 
British  and  Continental  i)orts.  And  the  demand  called  forth  the  supply,  bringing  to  the  front 
quite  a  number  of  merchant  sailors,  many  of  whom,  by  commercial  enterprise,  acquired 
wealth  ;  and  when,  long  after  the  granting  of  the  charter,  the  corjKjration  assumed  the 
conduct  of  burghal  affairs,  these  were  the  kind  of  men  who,  as  magistrates  and  councillors, 
came  to  the  front  and  managed  the  affairs  of  the  little  town. 

In  1488,  James  III.  was  killed  at  Sauchie  Burn,  and  his  successor  entrusted  the  Crown 
lands  in  Orkney,  with  the  keeping  of  the  Castle  of  Kirkwall,  to  Lord  Henry  St.  Clair,  a  son  of 
the  semi-royal  William,  late  Earl  of  Orkney.  By  him  the  Castle  was  held  and  occupied  till 
the  fatal  year,  1513,  when  he  followed  his  king  to  England  and  fell  with  him  at  Flodden. 
"In  the  second  year  of  Lady  Sinclair's  widowhood,  1515,  the  Orcadians  elected  James 
Sinclair,  natural  son  of  Sir  William  Sinclair  of  Wassater,  Sanday,  as  their  leader  and  virtual 
governor,  the  possessor,  though  illegitimate,  of  most  of  the  wealth  of  the  family,  and  the 
inheritor,  as  a  born  and  bred  Orkneyman,  of  all  its  popularity.  On  the  plea  of  a  general  devas- 
♦  p.  236.  t  1490.  t  Pet.  Rent.,  p.  56.  §  p.  78. 


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20  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

tation  of  the  islands  by  the  English  fleet,  in  Orkney  they  withheld  Lady  Margaret's  rents  for 
three  years,  1523  to  1525,  and  forced  her  son.  Lord  William,  to  surrender  the  Castle.  They 
slew  thirty  of  Lord  William's  adherents  who  had  taken  sanctuary  in  St.  Magnus  Cathedral."  * 
To  recover  possession  of  Orkney,  Lord  William  raised  a  i)arty,  and,  accom{)anied  by  his 
cousin,  John,  p]arl  of  Caithness,  crossed  the  Pentland  Firth  the  following  year.  The  Caith- 
ness men  were  defeated  at  Summerdale,  in  Stenness,  and  slaughtered  almost  to  a  nian.t 

Tradition  is  somewhat  circumstantial  in  its  memory  of  the  first  death  in  this  invasion  and 
the  \^t  at  the  close  of  the  battle.  The  Caithness  leaders  held  to  the  belief,  "  which  spills  the 
foremost  foeman's  life,  that  party  concjuers  in  the  strife."  Accordingly,  soon  after  landing  in 
Orphir,  they  came  u\x)r\  a  lad  herding  cattle,  and  ruthlessly  slew  him.  The  victim,  however, 
was  not  a  foeman,  but  one  of  their  own  countrymen  who  had  found  employment  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Pentland. 

The  last  to  fall  was  an  Orcadian,  whose  cottage  was  at  Tusker])ister,  (juite  near  the  battle- 
field. He  had  strii)i)ed  one  of  the  fallen,  and  had  arrayed  himself  in  gay  apparel.  He 
expected  to  surprise  his  mother,  but  the  old  lady  surprised  him.  To  protect  her  life  and 
honour,  she  had,  by  way  of  weapon,  put  a  stone  in  the  foot  of  a  long  stocking,  and  as  soon  as 
the  seeming  stranger  entered,  she  felled  him  to  the  ground  and  killed  him. 

Sir  James  Sinclair  now  remained  governor  of  the  Castle,  and  proceeded  to  acquire 
property.  By  representing  that  Sanday  and  Eday  were  holms  used  only  for  pasturing  cattle, 
he  received  a  grant  of  these  islands.     Sinclair  died  by  his  own  hand  at  Stirling  in  1539.t 

In  the  following  year,  James  V.  came  to  Orkney  with  a  fleet  of  twelve  ships.  §  He  was 
surprised  to  find  the  islands  in  such  a  state  of  civilization.  Indeed,  the  town,  with  its 
Cathedral,  its  Palace,  its  Castle,  and  the  handsome  houses  of  the  dignitaries  of  the  Church, 
their  gardens  sloping  to  the  Oyce,  was  well  calculated  to  impress  southern  visitors  ;  for,  in 
architectural  elegance,  Kirkwall  in  the  sixteenth  century  could  have  been  surpassed  by  very 
few  Scottish  towns. 

The  King  had  with  him  a  small  army,  and  he  "  placed  garrisons  in  two  castles,  the  king's 
castle  and  the  bishop's."  || 

He  evidently  regarded  Kirkwall  Castle  as  a  safe  and  commodious  dwelling  fit  to  be  a 
royal  residence,  for  he  settled  it  on  his  Queen,  Mary  of  Guise,  should  she  survive  him. 

During  the  short  time  James  remained  in  Orkney,  his  pilot,  Lindsay,  made  good  use  of 
his  opportunities  in  taking  soundings  and  drawing  a  chart  of  the  islands. 

The  lease  of  the  earldom  was  now  granted  to  Oliver  Sinclair,  the  Court  favourite  for  the 
time,  and  when,  after  the  death  of  her  husband,  the  Queen  dowager  desired  to  have  jiossession 
of  her  castle,  she  was  forced  to  have  recourse  to  law,  and  after  a  somewhat  tedious  action,  it 
was  ordained  by  the  Lords  of  Secret  Council  that  Sinclair  should  give  up  the  place  within 
six  days  after  receiving  an  order  from  the  royal  widow  to  that  effect. 

This  unfortunate  Oliver  was  the  last  Sinclair  to  bear  rule  in  Orkney.     In  the  wider 

history  of  Scotland  his  name  is  associated  with  the  greatest  national  disgrace  in  the  annals  of 

our  country's  wars.    At  Solway  Moss,  an  army,  nominally  under  his  command,  but  actually  in 

a  state  of  mutiny,  was  scattered  to  the  winds  by  the  dashing  charge  of  a  handful  of  English 

horse.     The  story  of  his  life  well  illustrates  the  instability  of  Court  favour.    He  had  held  the 

foremost  place  in  the  household  of  James  V.,  yet  he  was  personally  unknown  to  James  VI. 

and  his  Court.    When  the  Earl  of  Arran  had  sole  possession  of  this  King's  ear,  we  are  told 

*  St.  Clairs  of  the  Isles, 
t  It  wiis  not  till  1538,  eleven  years  after  the  battle,  that  the  King  granted  amnesty  to  those  who 
had  taken  part  in  slaying  the  Earl,  and  in  the  Act  of  Oblivion  he  specially  names  Magnus  Cromarte, 
Johne  Croniarte,  Magnus  Garoch,  and  Edward  Bumess. 

4:  Barry,  p.  246,  note.  §  Tytler,  v.  276,  II  Buchanan. 


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:<      THE  CASTLE.  21. 

that  "  one  day  the  favourite  was  bustling  into  the  Court,  when  an  old  man,  meanly  dressed, 
chanced  to  stand  in  his  way.  As  Arran  pushed  rudely  past  him,  the  man  stopped  him,  and 
said—*  Look  at  me,  my  lord,  I  am  Oliver  Sinclair.'  In  a  short  time,  Arran,  too,  was  living  in 
obscurity  and  fear,  and  he  died  a  violent  death."  * 

Mary  of  Guise  having  ousted  Sinclair,  was,  as  Regent  of  Scotland,  too  much  occupied 
with  State  affairs  even  to  visit  Kirkwall,  and  she  gave  the  keeping  of  the  Castle  to  one  Bonot, 
a  Frenchman,  a  choice  which  was  far  from  popular.f 

The  Queen  dowager  died,  1560,  and  in  1564,  Lord  Robert  Stewart,  half-brother  of  Queen 
Mary,  got  a  written  title  to  "  all  and  whole  the  lands  of  Orkney  and  Zetland,  with  all  and 
sundry  the  isles  pertaining  thereto,  with  all  and  each  of  the  castles,  towers,  fortalices,  woods, 
mills,  multures,  fishings,  tenents,  service  of  free  tenents,  with  the  whole  superiority  of  free 
tenents,  advocation,  donation  of  churches,  and  with  the  office  of  Sheriff  of  the  Fouldrie  of 
Zetland."  t    The  feu  was  fixed  at  £2006  13s  4d  ;  Oliver  Sinclair  had  paid  £2000. 

In  1567  this  lease  was  cancelled,  and  the  islands  were  given  to  James  Hepburn,  Earl  of 
Bothwell,  who  was  at  the  same  time  created  Duke  of  Orkney.  But  the  duke  had  a  more 
restricted  title  than  the  earl  had  held.  He  did  not  get  "  all  and  whole  the  lands  of  Orkney 
and  Zetland,"  but  only  "  all  and  haill  the  earldom  lands  and  isles,"  «fec.,  "  all  erectit  in  ane  haill 
and  free  dukry  to  be  callit  the  dukry  of  Orknay  for  ever." 

Here  it  would  seem  that  the  crown  authority  recognised  the  illegality  of  granting  a  title 
to  the  bishopric  lands,  which  had  been  secured  for  the  church  and  erected  into  a  regality  by 
the  charter  granted  to  Bishop  Andiew.  Mary,  perhaps  foreseeing  the  troubles  that  were  sure 
to  follow  her  ill-omened  wedding  with  the  Duke  of  Orkney,  had  given  the  keeping  of  the 
Castle  of  Kirkwall  to  one  whom  she  had  reason  to  regard  as  a  friend.  Gilbert  Balfour  had 
been  Master  of  the  Household  to  the  Queen  and  her  husband,  Henry,  Lord  Darnley,  and  he 
was  now  Sheriff  of  Orkney  and  Governor  of  all  its  strongholds. 

Mary's  troubles  came  perhaps  sooner  than  she  anticijiated.  In  exactly  a  month  after  this 
miserable  marriage,  Bothwell  fled  from  the  bloodless  field  of  Carberry,  and,  seeking  refuge  in 
his  island  duchy,  he  hoped  to  find  security  in  Kirkwall  Castle.  But  the  politic  Balfour, 
refusing  to  treat  with  a  broken  man,  turned  the  guns  of  the  fortress  upon  him,  and  the 
fugitive  hurried  off  to  Shetland,  hotly  pursued  by  a  squadron  under  command  of  Kirkaldy  of 
Grange. 

And  now  Lord  Robert  Stewart  succeeded  in  recovering  his  former  title,  securing  the 
bishopric  as  well  as  the  earldom  revenues.  As  to  this.  Bishop  Graham  says—"  Robert,  Erie 
of  Orknay,  sone  to  King  James  the  Fyft,  obteyned  a  few  of  Orknay  and  Shetland,  and  yair- 
upon  intendit  to  stress  the  udillandis,  and  augment  a  rental  on  these  their  landis.  He  ceased 
fra  it,  and  found  out  ane  uther  way  to  doe  the  turne.  He  was  Abbot  of  Hallyrudehouse,  and 
Adame  Bothwell,  then  bishope  of  Orknay,  they  maid  ane  excambione,,  and  Erie  Robert 
became  in  these  dayes  bischope  in  omnibus,  and  set  his  rentall  of  teynds  upon  these  udillands 
above  the  availe,  yea,  triple  above  the  availe.    This  rentall  stands  to  this  day."  § 

On  the  other  hand,  Bishop  Bothwell  "  denied  that  ever  he  dimitted  to  my  Lord  Robert 
his  office  or  anie  part  thereof,  but  that  the  said  Lord  Robert  violentlie  intruded  himself  on  his 
whole  living." 

Hitherto,  the  power  of  the  Castle  had  been  to  a  certain  extent  limited  by  the  authority 
of  the  Palace  ;  but  under  Robert  Stewart,  the  power  of  the  earls  and  the  authority  of  the 
bishops  were  the  prerogative  of  one  unscrupulous  man. 

The  story  of  the  tyrannous  rule  of  the  Stewart  earls  has  often  been  told.    Under  them  the 

♦  Scott,  Tales.        t  Peterkin,  Notes,  100.        t  Pet.,  Notes,  101.        §  Pet.,  Reot,  iii.  20. 


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22  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

islanders  became  familiar  with  enforced  labour  of  all  kinds — field  work,  i)eat  cutting,  ferrying, 
quarrying,  and  building,  receiving  no  return  either  in  food  or  wages. 

Rents  being  \md  in  kind,  were  left  nominally  untouched,  but  in  reality,  through  altered 
standards,  were  increased  all  over  the  islands  by  one-fourth.  Every  thing  thro^^n  up  by  the 
sea  or  found  floating  off  the  shore  liecame  the  proj^erty  of  the  Earl.  For  venial  crimes  small 
proprietors  were  deprived  of  their  lands,  and  where  a  pleasant  bit  of  proi>erty  tempted  the 
eye,  charges  of  witchcraft  and  sorcery  were  trumi)ed  up  against  the  owner,  to  l)e  immediately 
followed  by  confiscation. 

The  church  was  largely  drawn  uiK>n  to  augment  the  revenue  of  the  Earl.  The  teinds,  as 
Bishop  Graham  showed,  were  set  at  triple  their  value.  Benefices  were  allowed  to  remain 
vacant,  and  the  stii)ends  were  appropriated  by  the  Earl.  Earl  Robert  supjn'essed  the  Burgh 
Council  and  destroyed  what  records  had  accumulated. 

He  built  for  himself  a  i)alace  at  Birsay,  after  the  ])lan  of  the  beautiful  royal  rewidence  at 
Falkland.  His  vassals — a  convenient  and  comprehensive  designation  including  all  ranks  and 
conditions  of  the  [)eople — were  forced  to  supply  the  lal>our. 

To  i)revent  as  far  as  jwssible  his  high-handed  rule  becoming  known  l>eyond  his  earldom, 
no  one  was  allowed  to  enter  or  de()art  without  his  permission. 

In  spite,  however,  of  his  precautions  complaints  reached  the  Court,  and  Earl  Robert  was 
summoned  to  Edinburgh.  He  was  imprisoned  in  Linlithgow  for  a  time,  but  on  bail  being 
found  for  him  by  two  friends  to  the  amount  of  £10,000,  he  was  lil)erated,  and  returned  to 
Orkney,  where  he  died  in  1591.     He  was  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son,  Patrick. 

Of  this  earl's  character  and  government,  Scottish  historians  take  different  views.  An 
almost  contemi>orary  writer  says  : — "The  real  crime  of  the  unfortunate  Earl  was  most 
probably  his  extensive  possessions,  the  secular  jwrtion  having  attracted  the  avidity  of  the 
Royal  favourite,*  and  the  Episco|)al  revenues  being  as  keenly  eyed  by  the  prelates. f 

Peterkin  calls  his  execution  a  judicial  murder.  But  local  tradition  both  in  Orkney  and  in 
Shetland,  the  complaints  of  the  Balfours,  Ballendens,  and  others  of  his  neighl)ours,  and 
finally  his  indictment  and  trial,  leave  no  doubt  whatever  of  the  iiyustice  and  t>Tanny  of  his 
rule. 

He  plundered  those  of  his  subjects  whose  wealth  made  it  worth  the  trouble,  and  where 
resistance  was  offered  he  resi)onded  with  imprisonment  and  torture. 

Bellendcn  of  Evie  refused  to  part  with  some  lands  to  the  Earl,  whereui)on  his  eldest  son 
was  put  in  the  "  boots,"  another  son  was  imprisoned,  and  the  bedridden  old  laird  himself  was 
carried  off  to  Kirkwall. 

Besides  the  torture  of  the  "  boot,"  we  hear  of  the  "  cashie  laws,"  an  iron  stocking  heated 
up  by  a  moveable  furnace  ;  of  the  penny  winkies,  the  thumbscrew,  and  of  the  simple  scourge 
applied  with  such  hearty  goodwill  as  to  leave  "  neither  skin  nor  hide  "  ui)on  the  unfortunate 
Bcourgee. 

From  these  it  may  readily  be  believed  that  in  his  own  domains  the  Earl  had  few  friends. 

With  his  neighbour  of  Caithness  he  was  at  constant  feud.  The  rout  at  Summerdale  was 
unforgotten  and  unforgiven  on  the  other  side  of  the  Pentland  Firth,  and  though  the  Stewarts 
had  no  finger  in  that  pie,  the  Sinclairs  seemed  to  regard  the  Orcadian  earls  as  hereditary 
enemies.  "The  year  of  God  1608  there  was  some  ai)iK?arance  of  trouble  between  the  Earls  of 
Caithness  and  Orkney,  by  reason  that  upon  some  preceding  discontent  the  Earl  of  Caithness 
had  now  caused  apprehend  some  of  the  Earl  of  Orkney's  servants  who  were  forced  to  land  in 
Caithness  by  a  contrary  wind  and  vehement  storm  of  weather.  First,  the  Earl  of  Caithness 
made  them  drunk,  then,  in  a  mocking  jest,  he  caused  shave  the  one  side  of  their  beards  and 
*  Kerr,  Earl  of  Somerset.  t  Aikman's  Buchanan,  iii.,  p.  336. 


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THE  CASTLE.  23 

the  one  side  of  their  heads,  last  of  all  he  constrained  them  to  take  their  vessel  and  go  to  sea  in 
that  stormy  tempest."  * 

Earl  Patrick  complained  to  the  King  of  this  gratuitous  indignity  put  upon  his  people,  and . 
both  noblemen  repaired  to  Edinburgh.  There,  however,  "they  agreed  all  their  private 
quarrels  by  the  mediation  of  friends  lest  they  should  reveal  too  much  ot  each  other's  doings." 

On  the  other  hand,  perhaps  as  a  matter  of  policy,  the  Earl  cultivated  the  friendship  of  the 
Sutherland  family.  **  In  the  month  of  August  1602,  John,  Earl  of  Sutherland,  accompanied 
by  his  brother.  Sir  Robert  Gordon,  Hutcheon  MacKay,  the  Laird  of  Assynt,  and  other  gentle- 
men went  into  Orkney  to  visit  Earl  Patrick.  They  shipped  at  Cromarty,  in  the  Earl  of 
Orkney's  warship  the  Dunkirk,  and  landed  at  Kirkwall,  where  they  were  honourably  received 
and  heartily  entertained  by  Patrick,  Earl  of  Orkney."  On  such  occa.sions  his  palace  witnessed 
profuse  display  and  prodigal  expenditure.  "  His  pomp  was  so  great  that  he  never  went  from 
his  Castle  to  the  Kirk  without  the  convoy  of  fifty  musketeers  and  other  gentlemen  of  convoy 
and  guard.  And,  before  dinner  and  supper,  there  were  three  trumpeters  that  sounded  till  the 
meat  of  the  first  service  was  set  at  table,  and  sic  like  at  the  second  service,  and  consequently 
after  grace."  f 

Inheriting  a  strong  love  for  architecture,  he  built  for  himself  a  residence  on  the  bishopric 
lands.  He  selected  a  site  close  by  the  Place  of  the  Yards,  and  erected  what  was  called  the 
New  Wark  in  the  Yards. 

The  Earl's  Palace,  when  finished,  must  have  been  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  Scottish 
baronial  architecture  then  existing,  and  the  magnificent  banqueting  hall,  the  commodious 
withdrawing  room,  and  the  immense  kitchen,  with  its  capacious  fire-place,  go  to  show  that  the 
builder  proposed  to  maintain  the  princely  style  becoming  the  grandson  of  a  king  and  the 
ruler  of  a  virtually  independent  province. 

But  in  the  erecti(m  of  this  lordly  mansion  the  oppressions  of  the  islanders  culminated. 
It  is  charged  against  the  Earl  that  he  compelled  the  gentlemen  tenants  of  Orkney  and  Zetland 
to  work  for  him  all  manner  of  work  by  sea  and  land,  in  rowing  and  sailing  his  ships  and  boats, 
loading  them  with  stones  and  lime  and  discharging  the  same,  quarrying  and  carrying  stones, 
building  his  walls  and  other  sorts  of  servile  and  painful  labour,  without  meat,  drink,  or  hire. 
The  islands  were  still  under  their  old  Norse  laws,  and  in  the  Things  justice  should  have  been 
attainable  even  against  an  earl,  but  Patrick,  adopting  a  course  introduced  by  his  father,  packed 
the  courts  with  creatures  of  his  own,  and  thus  could  always  secure  a  decision  in  his  favour 
against  any  recalcitrant  subject. 

5th  August  1602—"  James  Barnetson  and  Adam  Cromartie  baith  proven  in  the  Foldis 
bulks  to  have  disobeyit  to  gang  to  my  Lord's  wark  in  Scalloway  as  they  were  decernit, 
thairfore  ilk  ane  of  them  are  decernit  to  pay  40  sh."  J 

This  refers  to  the  building  of  Scalloway  Castle.  In  Kirkwall  the  Earl  presided  as  provost 
in  the  burgh  and  as  sheriff  in  the  county  courts,  and  carried  matters  his  own  way. 

The  building  of  the  palace,  together  with  his  other  extravagances,  plunged  Earl  Patrick 
so  hopelessly  into  debt  that  his  principal  creditor.  Sir  John  Arnot,  by  way  of  security,  was 
"  infeft  in  the  earldom,"  and  Sir  John  had  this  infeftment  subsequently  ratified  by  Parliament, 
9th  July  1606. 

With  the  candour  of  a  creditor,  he  writes  to  the  Earl,  9th  April  1605  :— "  It  grieves  me 
very  meikle  and  piercis  my  hairt  to  hear  your  L.  name  bladdit  out  at  the  market  croice  as  it 
is,  for  even  when  I  was  in  wryting  this  letter  your  L.  is  chargit  at  the  Gudeman  of  Ethay's 
instance  to  compair  before  the  Counsel  the  7th  day  of  Junii  or  thereabout  to  answer  to  his 
complaints.  There  is  as  many  complaints  made  upon  your  L,  (and  yet  habile  without  cans) 
*  Peterkin,  Notes,  App.  55.  t  Macfarlane  MSS.  t  Pet.,  Notes,  App.  32. 


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24  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

that  your  L.  name  is  made  odious  to  all  the  people  of  this  country,  haith  great  and  small, 
every  one  ready  to  hem  to  their  own  evil  word  as  occasion  serves.  Thomas  Swiuton,*  Jsvmes 
Annand,  +  and  Jame-s  Crawford  can  shew  your  L.  enough  heirof  gif  they  please.  I  am  feirit 
that  it  sail  move  his  Majesty  to  extreme  anger  against  your  L.,  for  his  Highness  is  of  another 
kind  of  disposition  nor  he  has  been  in  Scotland  quhen  he  was  hier."  X 

But  a  time  was  at  hand  when  Earl  Patrick  should  discover  that  in  his  own  Orkney  there 
was  present  a  greater  than  himself. 

In  August  1606,  the  Parliament  which  met  at  Perth  pas.sed  an  Act  *'  to  restore  the  state  of 
bishops  to  their  ancient  and  accustomed  honours,  dignities,  prerogatives,  livings,  lands,  tithes^ 
rents,  and  estates.'' 

Jamas  Law,  minister  of  Kirkliston,  was  installed  Bishop  of  Orkney,  and  of  all  the 
Scottish  prelates  he  was  the  fittest  to  cope  with  Patrick  Stewart. 

The  Bishop,  very  soon  after  coming  to  Kirkwall,  determined  to  get  rid  of  the  Earl.  By 
pressing  at  Court  the  wrongs  of  the  people  he  hoped  to  attain  his  end.  He  had  ready  access 
to  the  King's  ear,  and  found  it  very  willing  to  listen  where  the  possible  confiscation  of  an 
important  fief  was  concerned.  He  wrought  patiently  and  systematically.  For  three  years  ho 
recorded  the  grievances  of  the  people,  arranging  the  cases  for  production  when  necessary,  and 
in  1609  he  had  the  Earl  summoned  before  the  Scottish  Privy  Council.  An  indictment  under 
fourteen  heads  was  drawn  up,  and  the  trial  commenced  4th  June  1610.  § 

Though  the  Lords  of  the  Council  were  anxious  to  save  the  life  of  the  peer,  it  was  obvious 
that  he  could  not  be  acquitted,  so  months  and  years  passed  away  without  sentence,  Earl 
Patrick  all  the  while  a  state  prisoner.  The  King  earnestly  desired  a  compromise,  and  offered 
him  a  royal  residence,  with  ample  income,  if  he  would  give  up  Orkney  and  Zetland  ;  but,  with 
the  unreasoning  ob.stinacy  of  his  race,  he  refused  all  terms. 

Lest  his  influence  with  the  nobility  should  lead  to  plots  in  his  favour,  he  was  removed 
from  Edinburgh  to  Dumbarton  Castle.  His  income  was  now  cut  off,  the  merest  pittance  being 
allowed  for  his  support—"  22  June  1613,  Four  Pounds  "  (6/8  stg.)  "  daily  allowed  the  Earl  of 
Orkney,  prisoner  in  the  castle." 

Meanwhile  his  natural  son  Robert,||  perhaps  inspired  by  filial  affection,  perhaps  moved  by 
the  paternal  reproaches,  resolved  to  make  a  demonstration  in  favour  of  his  father.  On  the 
plea  of  gathering  arrears  of  rents  he  proceeded  to  Orkney,  seized  the  Palace  of  Birsay,  and 
there  collected  men.  A  lingering  hope  of  release  from  Scottish  rule,  and  a  desire  on  the  part 
of  the  bulk  of  the  people  to  return  to  the  old  Norse  laws  and  customs,  gave  what  strength  it 
had  to  this  little  rebellion.  The  Scottish  friends  and  dependents  of  Earl  Patrick  gathered 
round  his  son,  who,  passing  to  Kirkwall,  secured  the  castle,  the  palace,  and  the  girnel  house, 
the  Cathedral  tower  being  already  in  possession  of  Patrick  Halcro,  the  most  prominent  of  his 
supporters. 

In  ail  munitions  of  war  the  castle  was  well  found,  and  was  capable  of  standing  a 
prolonged  siege.  We  are  told  that  Earl  Patrick  "  had  his  ships  directed  to  the  sea  to  intercept 
pirates  and  collect  tribute  of  uncouth  fishers  that  came  yearly  to  these  seas,  whereby  he  made 

*  Minister  of  Kirkwall,  1583 ;  Member  of  the  Secret  Council,  1689 ;  Commissioner  for  Orkney 
and  Zetland  for  six  years  ending  1591. 

t  Minister  of  VVestray,  1567  ;  Commissioner  of  Orkney,  1580. 

t  Pet.  Notes,  App.  58.  §  See  Appendix  to  this  chapter. 

II  Robert  Halcro  of  Cava,  acting  for  Marjorie  Sinclair,  mother  of  Earl  Patrick's  natural  son, 
Robert,  prosecutes  and  obtains  decree  aeainst  Jasper  Flett  of  Howbister  for  rents  due  to  Earl 
Patrick  to  the  amount  of  £686  2s  9d  cash,  11  lasts,  11  meils,  1  setting,  14  merks  flesh,  40  pair  of 
cunnings,  and  15  score  of  cunning  skinnos  for  lands  in  Sanday,  years  1601-2. — Sheriff  Court  Books, 
6th  Jan.  1625. 


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THE  GAfiTLR.  25 

such  collection  of  great  guns  and  other  weapons  for  war  as  no  house,  palace,  nor  castle,  yea  in. 
all  Scotland,  was  not  furnished  with  the  like."  * 

When  news  of  this  insurrection  reached  the  Court  there  was  a  keen  competition  for  the- 
command  of  the  expedition  which  should  be  dispatched  to  restore  order. 

Sir  James  Stewart,  afterwards  Lord  Ochiltree,  was  at  that  time  Sheriff  of  Orkney,  and  he 
offered  to  go  personally  and  suppress  the  rising,  if  the  Privy  Council  would  grant  him  a. 
commission  to  levy  500  men.  Lord  Lovat  promised  him  "from  200  to  300  Hielandmen/*" 
Some  gentlemen  of  Orkney,  then  in  Edinburgh,  dreading  the  consequences  of  such  a  Celtic 
invasion,  prevailed  on  Robert  Monteith  of  Egilshay  to  put  in  a  proposal.  He  accordingly 
undertook  to  "appease  the  country"  if  he  got  sixty  soldiers,  a  hemld  trumpeter,  and  one  ship- 
to  transport  them.  He  gave  George,  Earl  of  Caithness,  as  one  of  his  cautioners.  But  the 
cautioner  circumvented  the  principal  and  secured  the  command  for  himself. 

Burning  to  wipe  off  the  disgrace  of  Summerdale,  Caithness  appointed  his  own  retainers  to- 
meet  him  in  Orkney,  and  he  himself  embarked  at  Leith  with  sixty  soldiers.  For  the 
destruction  of  the  fortress  and  the  Cathedral  he  had  from  Edinburgh  Castle  "ane  great 
cannon  callit  Thrawn  Mouthe,  markit  with  the  porcupine,  and  ane  battering  piece,  markit 
with  the  salamander."  His  ammunition  consisted  of  "  three  score  bullets  for  each  of  the  two 
battering  pieces,  four  score  and  two  stones  of  gunpowder,  and  two  barrellis  with  cuttit  iron  for 
hail-shot," 

He  landed  at  Carness  on  the  23rd  August  1614.  With  much  labour  he  got  a  battering^ 
piece  ashore,  which  then,  "  by  great  force  of  men  and  some  difficulties  through  the  depth  of 
the  soil,  was  with  all  possible  diligence  drawn  near  two  miles  towards  the  town,  and  the  same 
day,  about  thrie  afternoon,  planted  at  Weyland,  within  ane  half  quarter  of  mile  to  the  Castle." 

"  I  commanded  the  cannoneers  to  shute  at  the  Castle,  who  did  their  part  so  well  that  by 
the  second  shot  one  of  the  turrets  upon  the  head  of  the  House  was  pierced  and  almost  beaten 
down,  to  the  great  terror  of  the  traitors,  and  other  three  being  shot,  did  all  hit  but  not  hurt  so- 
much." 

The  march  to  Kirkwall  met  with  some  show  of  resistance.  It  was  charged  against  Robert 
Stewart  at  his  trial  that,  "  upon  knowledge  of  the  said  Lieutenant's  coming,  ye  maist  treason- 
ably convenit  and  musterit  your  hail  forces,  and  for  augmenting  of  your  number  drew  in 
divers  of  the  country  people  who  were  pressit  and  forceit  by  your  tyranny  to  take  part  with 
you  in  your  rebellion,  making  up  in  number  an  army  of  five  hundred  men  for  your  guard  and 
defence  in  so  dampnable  ane  cause.  With  the  quhilk  number  of  armit  soldiers  ye  marchit- 
forth  in  battle  array  out  of  the  town  of  Kirkwall  towards  the  Car  ness  divers  days  of  the 
month  of  August  last,  of  purpose  there  to  have  withstood  and  resisted  the  said  Lieutenant 
and  his  ship's  landing.  Likeas,  after  the  said  Lieutenant  and  his  company  war  landed,  ye, 
accompanied  with  the  number  above  written,  all  bodin  in  feir  of  weir,  with  hagbuttis^ 
muscattis,  poulder,  leid,  ensignes  displayid  and  sounding  of  drums,  rankit  yourselves  in  battle 
array  at  the  Baw-field,t  ane  little  frae  the  toun  of  Kirkwall,  where  ye,  by  the  shutting  of  your 
muscattis,  maist  treasonably  made  resistance  to  the  said  Lieutenant  being  cled  with  His 
Majesty's  authority." 

Robert  Stewart's  five  hundred  men  retreated  somewhat  ignominiously  from  the  Balea,  but 
in  the  Castle  they  gave  the  Earl  of  Caithness  more  trouble  than  he  had  anticipated.  The 
EarUs  opinion  of  Henry  St.  Clair's  fortress  is  interesting  : — "  It  is  one  of  the  strongest  houses 
in  Britain,  for  I  will  bring  with  me  to  your  Lordship  cannon  bullets  broken  like  golf  balls 
upon  the  Castle,  and  clovin  in  twa  haffis." 

f  Macfarlane  MSS.      t  The  Ba'lea  of  Kirkwall  at  that  time  must  have  included  the  **  Carters'  Park.* 

£ 


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26  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

He  8ays  again  that,  but  for  his  securing  the  services  of  Patrick  Halcro,  "  it  would  have 
been  ane  langsome  siege  ;  for  I  protest  to  God  the  house  has  never  been  biggit  without  the 
■consent  of  the  Divil,  for  it  is  one  of  the  strongest  houses  in  Britain — without  fellow." 

The  townspeoi)le,  though  not  actually  in  rebellion,  showed  that  they  considered  blood 
thicker  than  water.  Caithness  complains  to  the  Secretary  of  State — "  I  cannot  nor  may  not 
stop  the  inhabitants  of  this  town  from  8i)eaking  with  the  traitors,  giving  thfem  meat  and  drink, 
And  making  daily  and  nichtly  advertisements  of  what  I  am  doing.  I  will  entreat  your 
Lordship  to  mak  me  advertisit  with  diligence  of  the  Council's  mind  what  1  sail  do  to  them, 
baith  men  and  women." 

Though  it  had  not  been  "ane  langsome  siege,"  the  Earl  found  himself  in  somewhat 
straitened  circumstances.  "  There  is  here  no  bread,  nor  drink,  nor  other  victuals  to  be  had  for 
price,  prayer,  or  command,  so  that  I  must  seek  present  relief  of  some  victuals  from  Caithness, 
or  suffer  the  soldiers  to  starve  for  want.  The  hail  iwwder,  except  ane  half-barrel,  is  sfKint, 
and  all  the  bullets  for  the  cannon  except  nine.  The  soldiers  want  their  jwiy  for  this  month, 
and  we  cannot  have  the  half  or  any  pairt  thereof  advancit.  The  rebells  are  resolvit 
obstinately  to  indure  and  hold  out ;  and  this  day,  because  the  cannon  played  not  on  them 
{having  intelligence  of  all  our  wants),  they  jested  from  the  Castle  in  the  morning,  asking  why 
our  cannons  did  sleep  so  long." 

Not  many  lives  were  lost  during  this  siege.  In  thanking  the  Secretary  of  State  for 
sending  supplies,  Caithness  says — "  I  and  all  who  are  here  >^ith  me  have  hot  service  with  this 
most  bluidie  and  barbarous  rebels  and  traitors.  They  have  killed  four,  and  the  last  one  is 
William  Irvine,*  ane  Orkney  gentleman,  who,  since  his  death,  I  have  heard  was  ane  great 
friend  to  the  traitor.  God  is  just  in  all  his  judgments,  for  amongst  us  all  standing  by  him  he 
is  shot  dead  upon  the  nineteenth  day  of  this  nionth,t  at  two  hours  in  the  afternoon." 

Marjorie  Sinclair,  Robert  Stewart's  mother,  was  with  her  son  in  the  Castle,  and  got  a 
musket  bullet  through  her  hand. 

At  length  the  Earl  was  able  to  report—"  All  is  come  to  His  Majesty's  honour,  praLsit  he 
God.  I  have  six  slain  to  me,  many  hurt.  I  shall  not  be  slow  to  punish  severely,  to  make 
example  to  others  to  play  the  lyk.  Presently  I  am  going  to  drink  His  Majesty's  good  health 
upon  the  Castle  heid." 

But  for  Halcro's  treachery  that  toast  would  have  been  long  deferred.  "  After  four  hours' 
conference,  he  and  I  hand  in  hand,  I  made  him  to  yield  that  he  would  give  it  over  and  make 
the  house  to  be  in  my  hands  ujKDn  condition  that  I  should  promise  him  his  life,  which  I  did." 
That  promise  Caithness  hoped  the  Privy  Council  would  disregard,  and  he  writes — "  I  think 
my  word  and  proraeis  given  to  Patrick  Halcro  shall  not  be  fulfilled,  before  it  wer  I  rather  be 
in  my  grave." 

To  screen  Halcro  and  make  it  appear  that  the  desire  for  surrender  came  from  within,  a 
minister  was  sent  into  the  Castle  to  admonish  the  garrison,  and  disunion  was  the  result. 

"  After  the  Castell  had  been  a  whyle  beseiged,  and  that  many  hundred  shot  of  cannon  had 
bein  delashed  at  it  in  vain,  without  any  effect,  they  which  were  within  the  fort  fell  at  variance 
among  themselves.  Robert  Stuart  was  resolved  to  hold  out  and  not  to  render  the  house  to 
the  Earl  of  Cathynes.  Patrick  Hacro,  the  author  of  this  rebellion,  persuaded  him  to  the 
contrary  ;  whereupon  Robert  Stuart  yielded  at  last,  having  discovered  Patrick  Hacro  his 
treasone  by  means  whereof  he  cud  hold  it  no  longer  nor  yet  save  himself  ;  which  when  Robert 
Stuai't  i)erceived,  though  too  late,  he  issued  out  the  next  morning  with  such  as  wold  follow 
him,  choosing  rather  to  render  himself  than  to  be  delivered  up  by  Patrick  Hacro.  "J 

^  Of  Sebay,  whose  tombstone  is  still  in  St.  Magnus,     t  September  1614.     J  Peterkin,  Notes,  App.  67. 


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THK  CASTLE.    -  27 

But  for  the  authority  of  Bishop  Law,  the  victor  would  have  wreaked  his  vengeance  upon 
the  vanquished  by  the  destruction  of  the  venerable  Cathedral.  Caithness  fed  fat  his  ancient 
grudge,  however,  by  hanging  twelve  Orkneymen  "  at  the  Castle  yett,"  and  by  carrying  south 
with  him  in  triumph  the  young  commander  and  five  of  his  comrades. 

The  news  of  the  capture  of  Kirkwall  Castle  was  received  in  Edinburgh  with  a  joy  that 
showed  a  very  exaggerated  idea  of  the  importance  of  Robert  Stewart's  demonstration  on  his 
father's  behalf.  On  the  23rd  of  November  1614,  "the  two  cannons  were  brought  up  the 
street  of  Edinburgh,  and  the  keys  of  the  Castle  of  Kirkwall  about  their  mouths,  with  drums, 
trumpets,  and  shotts  of  ordinance  of  the  Castle,  and  layde  in  their  own  places  within  the 
castle.    The  Castle  of  Kirkwall  was  demolished  at  the  king's  command."* 

The  same  authority  states  that,  in  the  beginning  of  December,  "  sundry  brasen  pieces  from 
the  castle  of  Kirkwall  were  brought  to  the  castle  of  Edinburgh,"  but  omits  to  state  that  the 
brass  guns  carried  away  amounted  in  value  to  more  than  20,000  merks,  so  well  had  the 
Stewarts  fortified  their  stronghold. 

Robert  Stewart  was  hanged  6th  Jan.  1615,  along  with  his  five  companions — "the 
gentleman,  not  exceeding  twenty-two  yeirs  of  age,  was  pitied  of  the  i)eople  for  his  tall  stature 
and  comlie  countenance."  t 

Exactly  a  month  lat^r  Earl  Patrick,  for  his  share  in  this  rebellion,  was  beheaded  at  the 
Cross  of  Edinburgh,  his  execution  having  been  i)ostix)ned  for  a  few  days  at  the  recjuest  of  the 
ministers,  who  found  him,  and  indeed  left  him,  "  so  ignorant  that  he  could  scarce  rehearse  the 
Lord's  prayer." 

We  get  an  idea  of  the  weight  of  shot  belched  forth  by  "  Thrawn  Mouth " : — "  David 
Seater,  belman  in  Kirkwall,  searched  the  east  syde  of  the  Castle,  there  about  the  greatest 
breach  thereof,  and  picked  out  a  cannon  ball,  to  the  bigness  of  thirty  pounds  weight  or  thereby, 
shot  thereat  74  yeires  at  the  in  taking  of  the  said  Castle.  This  was  done  upon  a  wage  of  12/- 
scots  betwixt  the  said  David  and  Alexr.  Sclaitter,  officer  in  the  said  Brugh."  1 

An  order  for  the  demolition  of  Kirkwall  Castle  was  issued  22nd  Oct.  1614,  but  it  was  not 
at  once  carried  into  execution,  for  on  Sth  May  1615  a  Sheriff  Court  was  held  "  a  pud  Castram  de 
Kirhvall"  The  final  order,  promulgated  18th  April  1615,  drove  the  Sheriff  out,  and  27th  Oct. 
1615  he  sat  "  wt  Nova  Domo,  prope  palatium  de  Yardis"  §  Thus  the  destruction  of  the  Castle 
was  carried  out  between  May  and  October  1615. 

The  last  remnant  of  "  fair  Kirkwall's  pride  and  sorrow  "  was  cleared  away  thirty  years  ago 
under  circumstances  recorded  on  the  front  of  the  Castle  Hotel : — "  Near  this  si)ot,  facing 
Broad  Street,  stood  in  the  year  1865  the  last  remaining  fragments  of  the  ruins  of  the  Castle  of 
Kirkwall,  a  royal  fortress  of  great  anticjuity  and  originally  of  vast  strength,  but  of  which,  from 
the  ravages  of  war  and  time,  nearly  every  vestige  had  long  previously  disapjDeared.  Its 
remains,  consisting  of  a  wall  55  feet  long  by  11  feet  thick,  and  of  irregular  height,  were, 
removed  by  i)ermLssion  of  the  Earl  of  Zetland,  on  application  of  the  Trustees  acting  in 
execution  of  the  Kirkwall  Harbour  Act,  1859,  in  order  to  improve  the  access  to  the  Harbour  ; 
and  this  stone  was  erected  to  mark  the  site,    mdccclxvi." 

The  well  from  which  the  Castle  had  its  water  supply  still  exists,  though  covered  over.  It 
is  lined  with  dressed  freestone,  and  is  under  the  road,  about  midway  between  the  opixjsite 
houses  at  the  head  of  Castle  Street. 

The  history  of  the  earldom,  after  the  execution  of  Patrick  Stewart,  may  be  very  briefly 
told. 


♦  Calrlerwood.  vii.  192.  t  Calderwood.  $  T.  B.,  16th  Feb.  1688. 

§  Sh.  Ct.  Rojz.  quoted  by  Peterkin  in  a  MS.  memorial  to  the  Crown  craving  the  restoration  of  t1 
Earl's  Palace.     This  memorial  in  now  in  copy  in  the  office  of  Mr  Gold,  Chamberlain  of  the  Earldom, 


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28  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Sir  John  Arnot,  for  a  very  large  loan  to  that  earl,  had  received  infeftment  in  the  earldom 
lands  of  Orkney  and  Zetland. 

In  1612,  James  VI.  bought  up  Sir  John's  right  and  annexed  the  whole  to  the  Crown. 

In  1614,  a  lease  of  the  earldom  was  granted  to  Sir  James  Stewart  of  Kilsyth,  afterwards 
Lord  Ochiltree,  as  Farmer- General.  For  his  oppressions,  and  for  tampering  with  the  weights, 
he  was  deprived  and  cooidemned  to  a  long  imprisonment.* 

Ochiltree's  lease  was  transferred  to  Napier  of  Merchiston  and  William  Dick,  merchant, 
Edinburgh. 

In  1622,  Sir  John  Buchanan  got  a  lease,  and  in  1624  Sir  George  Hay  of  Kinfauns.t 

Charles  I.,  in  1633,  gave  a  grant  to  the  Earl  of  Morton,  redeemable  on  payment  of  a 
fictitious  debt  of  £30,000.  Morton  having  been  deprived  under  the  Commonwealth,  a  lease 
was  granted  by  Charles  II.,  in  1662,  to  George,  Viscount  Grandison. 

This  lease  was  withdrawn,  under  Decree  of  Reduction,  at  the  instance  of  Sir  John  Nisbet 
of  Dirleton,  Lord  Advocate,  and  the  earldom  was  again  annexed  to  the  Crown,  1669. 

It  was  restored  by  Queen  Anne  to  the  Morton  family  in  1707  under  redemption  of 
£30,000  as  formerly. 

In  1742  it  was  vested  in  Morton  irredeemably  by  Act  of  Parliament,  and  a  charter  passed 
on  which  the  Earl  was  infef t. 

In  1766,  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas  purchased  from  James,  Earl  of  Morton,  the  earldom  of 
Orkney  and  lordship  of  Zetland  for  £60,000,  and  obtained  a  charter  from  the  Crown  on  which 
he  was  infeft.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Sir  Thomas,  afterwards  Lord  Dundas,  and  he  by 
his  son  Lawrence,  who  was  created  Earl  of  Zetland  in  1838.  Thomas,  the  second  earl,  was 
succeeded  by  his  nephew,  Lawrence,  third  Earl  and  first  Marquis  of  Zetland,  the  latter  dignity 
having  been  conferred  upon  him  in  1892. 


APPENDIX  TO  CHAPTER  IL 


In  an  "  Act  abrogating  some  Unlawful  Acts  within  Orkney  and  Shetland,"  seven  of  the 
Earl's  systematic  modes  of  oppression  are  given.    They  are  : — 

1.  The  confiscation  of  the  laudis  and  goods  of  all  such  persons,  who  after  they  are  sworn 
in  the  courtis  whilks  are  yeirly  holden  through  the  parochies,  shall  happin  to  conceal  any 
thing  wbilk  may  import  either  a  personal  or  pecunial  punishment. 

2.  The  prohibition  given  to  relieve  ony  shippis  distres.st  be  stormis  or  unseasonable 
wedder. 

3.  The  prohibition  to  pursue  ony  action  before  ony  judge  outwith  the  bounds  of  Orknay 
and  Zetland. 

4.  The  prohibition  and  discharge  of  passage  at  the  ferries  without  a  passport,  when  as 
there  is  no  necessair  cans  to  seik  the  same. 

5.  The  exacting  of  far  greater  taxations  of  the  people  nor  the  country  is  fouretened  with. 

6.  The  confiscation  of  goods  and  gear  of  such  personis  who  happins  to  meddle  with 
wrake  or  weith  casten  up  be  the  sea. 

7.  And  the  confiscation  of  the  goods  and  gear  of  such  personis  who  mark  not  their  bestial 
and  goods  within  the  time  prefixed. 

•  Pund.  Proc.,  ii.  7. 
t  At  this  time  the  Cathedral  was  undersoing  repairs  rendered  necessary  by  the  damage  done  in 
Bobert  Stewart's  rebellion,  and  Sir  George  Hay's  interest  in  the  work  is  shown  by  his  arms  above  the 
west  doorway. 


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CHAPTER  IIL 

The  Cathedral. 

^RKNEY  had  been  erected  into  a  bishopric  in  1136,  and  William  the  Old  was  already 
spiritual  overseer  of  the  islands.  Birsay  was  the  diocesan  church,  but  the  Bishop 
resided  more  frequently  in  Egilshay,  where  he  had  an  older  and  statelier  minster. 
But  there  was  need  for  a  better  and  more  central  church  for  the  Bishop,  and  this  gave  point 
to  Rognwald's  vow  that  he  would  '*  build  a  stone  minster  at  Kirkwall  more  magnificent  than 
any  other  in  these  lands." 

This  is  the  church  which  Buchanan  described  as  situated  between  the  two  castles. 

The  vow  had  been  suggested  to  Roguwald  by  his  father,  Kol,  husband  of  Gunhild, 
sister  of  Magnus  the  Martyr,  and  to  Kol  was  entrusted  the  carrying  out  of  the  work. 

In  the  choice  of  a  site  Kol  was  singularly  happy,  for,  though  the  foundation  is  only  a  few 
feet  above  sea  level,  the  church  can  be  seen  from  a  great  distance  over  the  sea,  both  north  and 
south.  From  the  southern  side  of  the  Pentland  Firth  St.  Magnus'  spire  is  visible  any  clear 
day. 

"  Kol  ordered  the  materials  and  all  other  necessaries.  He  also  planned  out  the  dimensions 
of  the  church  to  the  architects,  and  prescribed  their  task  to  every  person  ;  but  when  the 
building  took  up  a  long  time,  the  Earl  began  to  come  short  of  money  to  finish  the  work,  where- 
upon he  consulted  with  his  father,  who  advised  him  to  repeal  that  law  by  which  it  was  enacted 
that  the  earls  of  Orkney  should  succeed  to  the  feus  of  all  their  vassals,  which  was  a  very  hard 
case.  Wherefore  Earl  Rognwald  summoned  a  court  and  concurred  in  repealing  that  old  law. 
Every  man  gladly  embraced  the  benefit  of  the  new  kw,  and  bought  every  plough-gang  of  land 
in  all  the  country  for  a  mark  each  plough-gang.  By  these  means  there  was  enough  to  finish 
the  church  very  elegantly  and  with  much  magnificence."  ♦ 

From  this  it  would  seem  that  a  slight  approach  to  feudal  tenure  had  been  made  in  Orkney, 
and  in  the  above  arrangement  Rognwald  restored  udal  holding.  The  main  idea  in  udaller  is 
the  first  cultivator  of  vhmU  and  hitherto  unappropriated  land.  The  tenure  is  very  simple. 
Original  possession  is  its  essence,  independent  of  title  or  superior.  The  udallers  paid  scat  to 
the  king  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  their  lands,  but  only  as  a  voluntary  assessment  towards 
the  necessary  expenses  of  a  central  government.t 

"  It  is  probable  that,  within  three  or  four  ye^r?  of  the  foundation  of  the  Cathedral,  enough 
was  built  to  allow  of  its  consecration."  %  Then  Bishop  William  had  the  relics  of  St.  Magnus 
brought  from  Birsay  and  deposited  beneath  the  high  altar.  The  Bishop's  See  was  removed  to 
Kirkwall,  and  Rognwald's  vow  was  fulfilled  in  its  entirety. 

In  1154,  Cardinal  Nicolas  came  from  Rome  to  Norway,  sent  by  the  Pope,  and  he  con3e- 
crated  John  Bergisson  first  Archbishop  of  Trondheim,  placing  Orkney  in  his  province.  § 

•  Torfoens.  t  See  Appendix  to  this  chapter.  %  Dryden,  p.  17. 

§  This  Cardinal  was  Nicolas  Breakspeare,  afterwards  Pope  Adrian  iV.,  the  only  EngUshman  who 
has  occupied  the  papal  chair. 


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30  KIHKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Though  Kol  **  planned  out  the  dimensions  of  the  church  to  the  architects,"  his  plan  has 
been  widely  departed  from.  The  internal  length  of  the  Cathedral  is  217i  feet,  while  the 
original  plan  gave  about  130  feet,  exclusive  of  the  apse  which  terminated  the  choir.  Architects 
read  on  its  walls  records  of  the  works  of  different  centuries,  and  are  also  able  to  tell  of  long 
intervals  when  all  work  was  suspended. 

Wallace,  writing  about  1688,  says  :— "  Bishop  Stewart,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  enlarged  the 
Cathedral  Kirk  to  the  east  all  above  the  grees."*  Again,  with  regard  to  Bishop  Reid,  he 
says  :— "  He  greatly  enlarged  the  Cathedral  Kirk,  adding  three  pillars  to  the  former  Fabrick, 
and  decorating  the  entry  with  a  magnificent  porch." 

Writing  as  he  did,  when  the  work  of  the  latter  prelate  was  almost  within  the  memory  of 
living  men,  it  would  be  hard  to  believe  that  Wallace  could  be  wrong ;  yet  some  architects 
refuse  to  allow  Stewart  any  share  whatever  in  the  work,  and  give  Held  only  a  bit  of  outside 
wall  and  the  doorway  in  the  south  aisle.  But,  whoever  made  the  extensions,  an  uneducated 
eye  can  easily  detect  them  both  inside  and  outside  the  Cathedral. 

The  two  transept  chapels  are  said  to  belong  to  the  latter  half  of  the  twelfth  century.  A 
narrow  space  was  left  between  the  chapels  and  the  mcain  building,  and  on  the  south  side  thiff 
space  was  walled  up  and  roofed  over.  A  window  in  the  choir  aisle,  which  looked  into  the 
apartment  thus  formed,  was  closed  with  masonry.  Thus  the  place  was  shut  off  from  external 
light.  But  from  a  room  on  the  triforium  level  a  communication  was  opened  with  the  vaulted 
chamber  below.  This  was  a  slit  like  the  slide  of  a  letter  box,  forming  a  shoot  through  which  a 
human  body  could  be  projected.  And  the  convenience  of  this  arrangement  is  obvious.  The 
clerical  tribunal  sat  in  the  upper  room,  so  when  an  unfortunate  offender  was  sentenced  to 
imprisonment  he  glided  gently  from  the  hall  of  justice  directly  into  his  cell.  Once  in,  escape 
was  impossible,  and  when  the  aperture  was  closed  the  unhappy  occupant  was  in  total  darkness. 

This  would  be  quoted  as  another  sample  of  Romish  tyranny,  but  that  the  Protestant 
clergy  regarded  the  structure  with  much  approbation.  They,  however,  overlooked  the 
neatness,  secrecy,  and  despatch  of  the  ingenious  contrivance,  and  did  their  work  with  what 
might  be  called  characteristic  clumsiness.  They  blocked  the  easy  shoot,  opened  a  door  in  the 
built-up  window,  and  from  the  south  transept  chapel,  where  they  sat,  sent  their  prisoners  round 
into  the  church  and  up  a  ladder  to  their  cell.  Many  a  time  has  the  Cathedral  echoed  with  the 
screams  and  imprecations  of  reluctant  women  and  men  on  their  way,  short  as  it  was,  to  the 
dreaded  "  Marwick's  Hole."  Who  the  Marwick  was  whose  name  has  attached  itself  to  this 
miniature  "  Bottle  Dungeon  "  is  not  known.  He  may  have  been  the  builder,  or  the  gaoler,  or 
the  first  occupant  of  the  uncanny  place,  but  that  "  Marwick's  Hole  "  was  a  name  of  terror  to 
the  most  hardened  transgressors  we  have  abundant  proof. 

Sir  Henry  Dryden  says  it  is  not  known  when  this  chamber  was  formed.  A  recent 
writer  on  the  Cathedral  gives  the  date  as  1540-1 558. f  If  this  be  correct,  the  beneficent  Bishop 
Reid  has  the  credit  of  designing  this  ideal  "  Black  Hole." 

Though  Kirkwall  Cathedral  is  one  of  the  smallest  in  Britain,  it  gives  at  first  sight  an 
impression  of  immense  size.  This  arises  partly  from  the  comparatively  puny  surroundings, 
but  largely  from  studied  art.  The  length  and  height  have  been  magnified  and  the  width 
reduced  to  the  narrowest  possible  limit.  In  the  nave  the  height  to  the  vaulting  is  seventy-one 
feet,  while  the  width  between  the  pillars  is  less  than  seventeen.  One  feature  of  St.  Magnus, 
peculiarly  its  own,  is  the  handling  of  different  kinds  of  stone  to  produce  colour  effects. 
Unfortunately,  however,  the  introduction  of  yellow  necessitated  the  use  of  a  stone  which: 
succumbed  too  readily  to  the  influences  of  weather.    Sir  Henry  Dryden  says  **  the  doorway  in 

•  Altar  steps.  t  Builder,  Oct.  7,  1893. 


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THE  CATHEDRAL.  31 

the  south  transept  and  the  three  doorways  in  the  west  end  are  probably  the  finest  examples  in 
Great  Britain  of  the  use  of  stones  in  two  different  colours." 

Of  the  much  admired  rose  window  in  the  east  end  of  the  choir,  the  same  author  says  :— 
"  There  are  many  examples  of  wheel  windows,  but  this  use  of  a  wheel  extending  from  side  ta 
side  over  four  lights  in  a  pointed  window  is  probably  unique."  Under  this  window  are  four 
carved  stotie  ornaments.  The  outer  two  correspond  in  pattern,  though  the  stone  in  the  north 
spandrel  is  new,  the  old  one  having  been  worn  away.  The  carvings  on  the  other  two  are 
different  arrangements  of  Jleurs-de-lis,  in  each  instance  forming  a  cross  within  a  circle. 

'^The  capital  of  the  central  mullion  has  on  it  a  figure  with  a  cross  in  its  right  hand, 
sitting  on  a  hideous  beast  and  scourging  it  with  his  left  hand,  probably  representing  religion 
conquering  sin."  * 

The  whole  floor  is  now  paved  with  slates,  but  there  is  evidence  to  show  that  a  part  at 
least  had  been  laid  with  tiles,  some  of  which  are  still  preserved. 

On  a  work  of  such  magnitude,  artisans  of  different  degrees  of  skill  were  employed,  and  it 
was  necessary  that  each  man  should  be  responsible  for  his  own  work.  In  the  case  of  the  actual 
builders,  careful  supervision  was  all  that  was  required,  but  with  regard  to  the  hewers  it  was  a 
very  different  matter.  These,  for  convenience  and  better  choice  of  material,  sometimes 
wrought  at  the  quarry,  away  from  the  eye  of  architect  and  overseer,  and  some  system  was 
required  by  which  a  careless  chisel  could  be  traced  to  its  owner's  hand.  For  this  purpose,  from 
very  early  times,  certainly  in  the  great  cathedral  building  period,  hewers  used  certain  "marks," 
equivalent  to  signatures,  by  which  each  man's  work  could  be  identified.  Every  stone  cut  by- 
every  individual  sculptor  had  his  mark  incised  on  it,  so  that  an  error  in  curve  or  angle  was  at 
once  brought  home  to  its  author,  and,  as  such  an  error  might  not  be  noticeable  till  the  stone 
was  laid,  the  mark  was  put  upon  the  outer  surface. 

Dryden  counted  thirty-four  of  these  "masons'  marks,"  and  has  preserved  them,  but 
time's  effacing  finger  and  the  industrious  tool  of  the  renovator  have  obliterated  most  of  them.t 

The  stones  used  in  building  Kirkwall  Cathedral  were  brought  from  quarries  widely 
distant  from  each  other.  They  were  boated  up  the  Oyce,  and  were  hewn  opposite  the  west 
door,  where  some  of  the  Broad  Street  houses  now  stand.  In  digging  for  foundations  in  that 
neighbourhood,  builders  still  come  upon  the  "  redd  "  of  Earl  Eognwald's  hewers. 

In  the  case  of  St.  Magnus,  the  "  masons'  marks"  could  have  no  disfiguring  effect,  the 
internal  work  having  been  finished  by  the  laying  on  of  a  thin  coating  of  plaster.  This  laid  the 
ground  for  the  brilliant  fresco  painting  which  made  the  old  Cathedral  so  gorgeous  to  the 
Scandinavian  eye.  Some  of  the  ancient  colouring  is  still  to  be  seen,  and  is  easily  noticed 
among  the  groinings  in  the  roofs  of  the  aisles. 

These  roofs,  arched  within,  were  designed  to  be  externally  flat,  and  four  built-up  arches 
where  nave  and  choir  join  the  transept  show  that  their  present  sloping  roofs  were  not  in 
the  architect's  plan. 

The  Cathedral  was  completed  by  a  lofty  spire.  What  the  original  spire  was  like,  un-' 
fortunately  we  can  never  know,  but,  from  frequent  references  to  it  as  a  "  steeple,"  we  may 
conclude  that  it  tapered  up  in  slender  symmetry  to  a  height  proportionate  to  the  size  of  the 
building  which  it  surmounted.  Unfortunately,  however,  the  spire  was  not  a  structure  of 
stone  and  lime,  but  of  wood,  perhaps  covered  with  lead. 

i  ,  *  Dryden. 

t  In  1848,  when  some  repairs  were  being  executed  by  Grovemment,  one  of  the  workmen,  a  native;, 
of  Kirkliston,  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  churchyard.  The  architect  superintending  the  works' 
designed  a  neat  monument,  which  was  executed  by  the  comrades  of  the  deceased,  and  their  marksi 
eight  4n  number,  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  stone. 


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32  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  OBKNEYS. 

"  The  minister  and  elders  aggried  with  John  Auchinleck  to  mend  the  faults  of  the  steiple 
and  to  put  in  a  new  jest ;  and  to  pay  him  20s  in  the  day  on  his  owen  charges  ;  and  likewayes 
they  aggried  with  David  Sinclair,  12s  in  the  day  for  attending  the  work  and  serving  him ; 
likewayes  it  is  ordered  that  ane  elder  day  about  oversie  the  work."  * 

In  1671,  the  spire  was  struck  by  lightning,  and  the  "fire  brunt  downwards  until  the 
steeple  heid,  three  loftings,  and  all  the  timber  work  connected  with  the  bells  and  knock  house 
were  consumed  to  ashes."  On  this  occasion  the  people  of  the  town  were  very  active  in  their 
endeavours  to  save  the  old  Cathedral  and  its  belongings.  They  spread  salted  hides  upon  **  the 
highest  lofting  of  the  steeple  and  the  bells,"  and  that  the  bells,  if  they  did  come  down,  might 
fall  as  softly  as  possible,  they  carried  great  quantities  of  earth  into  the  centre  of  the  transept. 
The  bells  did  fall,  but  so  effectual  had  been  the  precautions  that  only  one,  but  that  the 
largest,  was  cracked.  Some  idea  of  the  quantity  of  stuff  thus  heaped  on  the  floor  may  be 
formed  by  seeing  the  difficulty  experienced  in  getting  it  removed.  At  a  meeting  of  Session, 
present  the  Bishop,  the  minister,  and  twelve  elders,  "  The  magistrates  are  desired  to  tak  ane 
speedie  course  that  all  the  earth  which  was  carried  into  the  church  for  saving  the  bells  wch 
fell  downe  to  the  church  flobre  when  the  stepple  was  brunt  by  lightning  upon  the  nynt  of 
Januar  last,  and  lykwise  the  redd  which  was  thrown  down  from  the  steeple  since,  may  be 
carried  out  of  the  church  by  the  townse  people  by  turns  until  the  church  be  cleansed."  t 

The  repairing  of  the  church  and  the  closing  in  of  the  tower  were  matters  of  necessity,  but 
the  rebuilding  of  the  spire  was  beyond  the  means  of  the  people  of  Kirkwall.  So  it  was 
resolved  that,  since  they  could  not  compass  a  steeple,  they  would  replace  it  by  a  pyramid. 

The  Kirk  Session  and  Town  Council,  on  the  one  part,  contracted  with  Robert  Pottinger 
and  his  cautioner,  John  Kennedie  of  Karminichie,  on  the  other  part,  that  among  other  repairs 
Pottinger  should  *'  sufficientlie  mend  the  stone  work  of  the  said  steeple  under  the  platform, 
that  it  may  be  strong  and  able  to  support  any  sort  of  Pyramid  that  may  be  built  upon  it."  1 
When  this  was  completed,  St.  Magnus  stood  as  we  see  it  to-day.  The  external  dimensions  of 
the  Cathedral  are  :— Length,  234  feet  6j  inches  ;  transept,  101  feet  4  inches  ;  and  height  from 
the  floor  to  the  top  of  the  present  weather-cock,  1«33  feet  4  inches. 

In  the  tower  there  are  two  chambers.  "  The  Thesuarer  gave  in  the  accompts  of  what 
money  Arthut  Baikie  had  debursed  for  the  mason  work  at  the  rose  above  the  south  kirk 
doore,  and  the  vaults  for  men's  safe  passage,  and  likewayes  to  the  men  who  cleansed  the 
steeple  and  hoysed  up  the  bells  to  the  Cowper  hall,  and  hanging  up  of  the  skellet  bell,  whilk 
corapts  were  accepted  after  revising  and  allowed."  The  chamber  to  which  the  bells  were 
hoisted,  and  which  is  still  known  by  the  old  people  as  Cowper's  Ha',  is  the  apartment  below 
that  in  which  the  bells  are  hung,  and  the  floor  of  which,  pierced  for  the  passage  of  a  bell  rope, 
may  be  seen  high  above  the  centre  of  the  transept. 

Cowper  of  the  "  Hall,"  like  Mar  wick  of  the  "  Hole,"  has  left  his  name  in  the  Cathedral, 
but  no  memory  of  what  he  was.  He  may  have  been  an  ancient  bell-ringer  who  passed  much 
of  his  time  in  this  room,  for  under  the  old  regime  the  bells  had  constant  work. 

From  the  Cowper's  Ha'  the  bells  were  soon  hoisted  to  their  chamber  above,  and  on 
Friday,  18th  April  1679,  "  Ye  bells  of  S.  Magnus  Kirk  in  Kirkwall,  being  3  qch  was  fallen  by 
burning  of  ye  steeple  head  on  Monday  the  9th  Jan.  1671,  was  houng  and  roung  in  ye  kirk."  § 

These  were  the  two  smaller  bells  and  the  skellat.  But  the  great  bell  was  not  hung  till 
three  years  later.  "  Augt.  23  (1682),  being  Wednesday,  Alexr.  Geddes  arrived  at  Kirkwall 
from  Holland  with  his  vessel  or  ship  qrin  was  ye  great  bell  of  Kirkwall,  returned  after  ye 
pasting  thereof  at  Rotterdam."  || 

'  ♦  S.  R.,  2l8t  July  1657.    t  S.  R.,  15th  March  1671.    t  S.  R.,  25th  March  1679.  .  §  T.  B.     U  T.  B.    , 


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THE  CATHEDRAL.  33 

Sir  Henry  Dryden  gives  a  very  full  description  of  the  bells,  and  the  three  still  in  use 
relate  their  own  history.  The  skellat  bell,  1  ft.  8  in.  diameter,  and  1  ft.  4  in.  high,  exclusive 
of  canons,  is  plain. 

In  the  olden  time  the  skellat  did  all  the  duties  which  a  single  church  bell  could  be  called 
upon  to  perform.  It  tolled  for  the  welfare  of  a  parting  soul ;  it  ckttered  cheerily  on  occasions 
of  rejoicing ;  and  it  boomed  in  slow  solemnity  over  the  mourners  in  the  grave  yard  below.  It 
was  rung  on  any  occasion  of  alarm,  and,  as  the  "  Fire  Bell,"  it  summoned  the  townsfolk  to 
render  neighbourly  help.  Its  hateful  clang  called  many  generations  of  unwilling  school  boys 
to  their  morning  tasks.    The  skellat  still  hangs  in  the  tower,  but  is  cracked  and  silent.  * 

But  Bishop  Maxwell,  who  had  already  adorned  the  church  by  the  erection  of  stalls,  was 
not  content  with  the  clatter  of  the  shrill  little  skellat,  and  he  procured  for  his  Cathedral  its 
peal  of  three  bells.  These  were  cast  in  Edinburgh  Castle  by  Robert  Borthwick.  Of  this  man 
it  is  known  that  he  was  master  gunner— chief  cannon  founder— to  James  IV.,  that  he  was 
present  at  the  battle  of  Flodden,  and  that  he  was  one  of  the  survivors  of  that  bloody  field  is 
shown  by  the  date  of  the  casting  of  the  bells,  1528,  in  the  reign  of  James  Y. 

The  first  bell,  2  ft.  9  in.  diameter  and  2  ft.  5  in.  high,  has  in  three  lines  of  raised  black 
letters  : — "  Maid  be  maister  robert  maxvel,  byschop  of  Orknay,  ye  secund  yier  of  his 
consecracion,  in  the  year  of  god  Im  Vc  XXVIII.  yieris,  ye  XV.  yier  of  Kyng  James  ye  V.,  be 
lobert  borthvyk,  maid  al  thre  in  ye  castel  of  Edynbrugh." 

The  second  bell  has  in  two  lines  :— "  Maid  be  maister  robert  maxvel,  bischop  of  Orknay, 
in  ye  secund  yeir  of  his  consecration,  in  the  yeir  of  god  Im  Vc  XXVIII.  yeiris,  ye  XV.  yeir  of 
ye  reign  of  King  James  V." 

The  inscription  on  the  third  bell,  belonging  to  a  century  and  a  half  later  than  the  others, 
is  somewhat  modernized,  but  it  blunders  in  leaving  out  the  year  of  the  King's  reign.  It  is  in 
two  lines:— "Made  by  master  Robbert  Maxvell,  Bischop  of  Orkney,  the  yaer  of  Gk)d 
MDXXVIir.,  the  year  of  the  reign  of  King  James  the  V.,  Robert  Borthwik  made  me  in  the 
castle  of  Edinbrugh." 

When  this  bell  was  sent  to  Holland  to  be  recast,  the  instructions  were  "  that  there  be  ane 
special  and  diligent  care  had  that  the  letters  already  about  the  bell  be  again  reformed  as  the 
samin  is  conform  to  ane  note  thereof  sent  with  it,  together  with  the  several  arms  already 
thereupon,  viz.,  the  arms  of  Scotland,  being  ane  Lyon  within  the  Shield,  with  the  portrait  of 
Sainct  Magnus  and  the  Maxwell's  arms ;  and  that  the  samin  be  placed  upon  the  said  bell  as  the 
samin  is  at  present.  That  there  be  added  thereto  underneath  the  said  letters  and  arms,  this 
line,  viz. :— *  This  bell  recastin  at  for  Kirkwall  in  anno  1682,  and  to  mark  the  weight 

thereof  upon  the  bell.' " 

Accordingly,  in  an  oval  medallion  in  seven  lines  is  the  following  :>— "  Taken  et  brought 
againe  heir  by  Alexander  Geddus,  Merchant  in  Kirkwa,  and  recasten  at  Amsterdam,  JuUy, 
1682  years,  by  Claudius  Fremy,  city  bell  castor.    It  weighs  1450P." 

The  "  portrait  of  Sainct  Magnus  and  the  Maxwell's  arms  "  were  also  reproduced,  the  whole 
work  costing  1303  merks.    The  weight  of  the  bell  and  tongue  is  1574  pounds  avoirdupois. 

*'  The  second  bell  is  used  for  the  clock,  and  is  struck  by  the  clock  hammer  on  the  outside, 
giving  when  so  struck  a  note  lower  than  that  given  when  struck  by  the  tongue."  f 

The  first  cathedral  clock  was  rude  in  construction,  it  had  only  one  hand,  and  required 
daily  winding.  The  chapters  were  inscribed  on  the  wall  of  the  tower.  As  far  back  as  1669 
there  are  entries  in  the  Session  Records  regarding  the  clock,  and  from  the  instructions  given 
regarding  it,  the  probability  is  that  its  history  dates  from  that  year.    As  no  statement  is  made 

*  The  name  is  probably  derived  from  the  Norse  skyaUa,  to  clash  or  clatter.        t  Sir  H.  Dryden. 

r 


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S4  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

of  the  original  cost,  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  Town  Couacil  put  up  the  timepiece  and  laid 
the  care  of  it  upon  the  Session. 

After  invocation  of  the  name  of  God,  the  Session  appointed  Harrie  Grott  *'  to  wait  upon 
ihe  Knock  and  look  diligently  thereto."  *  In  1673  Harry  died,  and  his  place  was  taken  by 
James  Laughton.  The  diligence  of  these  two  men  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  in  May  168^ 
David  Forbes,  Town  Clerk  and  Church  Trfeasurer,  had  **  several  pairts  of  the  old  knock  in 
his  possession."  These  parts  were  given  to  David  Seatter,  church  officer,  at  his  own  request, 
that  he  might  do  the  necessary  repairs,  a  job  that  apparently  any  person  of  ordinary 
intelligence  might  undertake.  Seatter's  business  capacity  was  not  of  the  highest  order,  for  he 
bound  himself  to  have  the  work  completed  before  a  day  fixed  by  the  Session,  "  under  pain  of 
tinsel  of  what  shall  be  expended  by  him  there  upon."  Seatter's  work  was  completed  in 
June  of  the  following  year,  and  a  dial  was  procured.  **  The  horologe  broad  for  ye  clock  of 
Kirkwall  was  placed  upon  ye  west  side  of  ye  steeple,  which  broad  was  painted  by  James 
I^icolson,  chapman."  t 

So  fallacious  was  it,  however,  as  a  timekeeper,  that  the  Session  in  1693,  for  the  sake  of 
accuracy,  gave  an  order  to  Patrick  Adamson,  with  a  dollar  in  advance,  for  ^*  the  squaring  of 
two  stones  for  dials,"  and  these  dials  were  also  painted  by  James  Nicolson. 

The  old  clock  seems  to  have  wagged  along  somehow  till  1720,  when  Andrew  Kilgoui^ 
watchmaker,  Inverness,  being  in  Kirkwall,  contracted  with  the  Session  for  £13  stg.  to  repair 
the  clock,  give  it  a  larger  dial,  and  make  it  go  eight  days.  The  Session  agreed  to  furnish  the 
necessary  iron  and  wood  and  to  pay  the  wright,  Kilgour  paying  the  smith.  This  was  done, 
but  within  three  years  we  learn  that  "  the  kirk  clock  is  wholly  useless  as  it  presently  stands.^ 
JThen  George  Leith,  watchmaker,  undertook  to  put  "her"  right,  and  to  ask  no  pay  for  a 
quarter  of  a  year.  The  Session  had  lost  by  their  bargain  with  Mr  Kilgour,  and  now  Mr  Leith 
loses  by  the  Session.  The  work  occupied  him  six  weeks,  during  which  time  he  received  one 
pound  sterling  for  maintenance,  and  when  the  repairs  were  completed  he  got  20s  as  half  of  his 
pay,  the  other  half  being  retained  till  it  should  be  seen  "  how  she  would  go." 

Dec.  9th  : — "  Compeared  before  the  Sess.  George  Leith,  and  acquainted  the  Sess.  that  he 
had  righted  the  clock,  and  that  he  had  put  her  up  and  that  she  was  now  going  right,  and 
craved  that  the  Sess.  might  now  order  James  Seater,  bellman,  to  draw  her  seasonablie." 

Thus  renovated,  the  old  clock  was  able  to  go  till  1751,  when  the  civic  and  ecclesiastical 
julers  agreed  to  have  a  new  one.  This  was  constructed  by  James  Gordon,  Aberdeen,  and, 
.besides  the  date  and  maker's  name,  bears  the  inscription,  "  Emptum  per  urbem  et  sessionem 
XirkwaU." 

Among  its  few  valuable  belongings  the  Cathedral  has  two  communion  cups  and  two 
collection  plates  which  demand  notice. 

In  1698,  the  Rev.  Mr  Wallace  left  one  hundred  merks  for  the  use  of  the  church,  and  "the 
Session  appoint  and  ordain  that  two  cups  for  the  Sacrament  should  be  bought,  and  Mr 
.Wallace's  name  engraved  on  them." 

The  brazen  collection  plates  are  about  two  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter,  and  are  each 
adorned  with  figures  of  Adam  and  Eve,  while  one  has  an  inscription,  "  Had  adam  gedaen  Gods 
woort  wys,  soo  vaer  hy  gebleven  int  paradys.  Anno  1636."  t  A  facsimile  of  the  inscribed 
plate  has  recently  been  presented  by  George  Hunter  Thorns,  Esq.,  Sheriff  of  Orkney,  to  St. 
Giles'  Cathedral  in  Edinburgh.  Those  plates  were  not  made  for  the  Cathedral,  but  were 
picked  up  in  Rotterdam  in  1692.§ 

Under  Romish  rule  the  bishops  were  really  the  upholders  of  the  fabric  of  the  Cathedral, 

♦  S.  R.,  20th  Oct.  1669.  t  T.  B.'8  Diary. 

•    X  Had  Adam  done  God's  word,  so  had  we  then  lived  in  paradise.         §  S.  R.,  19th  Ap.  1692. 


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THE  CATHEDRAL. 


35 


and,  as  has  been  seen,  some  of  them  contributed  generously  towards  its  enlargement  and 
adornihent.  Under  Protestant  Episcopacy,  Bishop  Graham  says  :— "  For  ye  fabrick  off  the 
kirk  the  Bishop  upheld  the  quier  and  the  Bishop's  dwelling  plaice,  and  there  is  ane  Act  of 
Parliament  in  anno  1633  for  upholding  off  the  bodie  off  ye  kirk,  and  the  Bishop  himself  has 
Bundrie  tymes  demanded  means  from  ye  excheker."  These  demands  could  have  been  made 
only  during  the  five  years  be- 
tween the  passing  of  the  Act 
referred  to  and  Bishop  Graham's 
demission,  1638. 
-  When  the  city  of  Edinburgh 
leased  the  bishopric  lands  the 
Corporation  dealt  kindly  with 
the  Cathedral :— "  In  presence 
of  the  ministers  and  elders  of 
the  kirk  of  Kirkwall  convened 
for  the  ty  me,  Compeared  Patrick 
Smith  of  Braco,  and,  in  name 
and  behalfe  of  the  town  of  Edin- 
burgh, delivered  the  sowme  of 
two  hundred  pounds  money  into 
the  Session  of  Kirkwall,  to  be 
employed  for  repairing  of  the 
fabrick  of  the  quire  of  the  said 
EArky  together  with  the  sowme 
of  £20  for  communion  elements, 
and  desired  an  act  of  Session 
upon  the  deliverie  of  the  fore- 
said sum  for  his  exoneration ; 
whilk  was  most  willinglie  grant- 
ed, with  many  thanks,  unto  the 
said  town  of  Edinburgh  for  their 
special  care  of  the  said  kirk, 
hoping  that  they  would  con- 
tinue the  same  in  tyme  com- 


ing. 


»* 


Communion  Cup  in  the  Cathedral. 


In  February  1658,  the  mini- 
ster and  elders  memorialised  the 
Justices  of  Peace  on  the  sub- 
ject : — **  Whereas  it  is  not  unknown  to  the  most  part  of  this  honorable  meiting  that  in 
tymes  past,  speciallie  in  the  late  Bishope's  tyme,  it  was  provided  That  the  great  fabrick  of  our 
kirk  suld  be  mentained  and  supported,  partlie  by  the  Bishop  out  of  his  revenues,  and  partlie 
by  the  fynes  of  all  adulteries  as  occasion  offred  throughout  the  whole  countrie,  both  main-land 
and  yles  :  Likas,  conforme  to  his  order,  it  is  of  verity  that  the  late  Bishope  did  carefullie, 
upon  his  awen  charges,  men  tain  and  uphold  the  most  considerable  part  of  the  said  fabrick 
commonlie  called  the  quier,  or  the  place  where  divine  ordinances  ar  administered,  and  withal 
the  foresaid  fynes  wer  carefullie  uplift  and  employed  as  said  is ;  but,  since  the  reducing  of 
Episcopacy,  we  have  had  no  supplie,  neither  on  way  nor  uther,  for  upholding  the  fabrick  of  our 

*  SL  R.,  7th  Nov.  1647. 


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36  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

kirk,  and  being  unable  to  manage  the  work  of  ourselves,  off  necessitie  it  must  ruine  unless 
some  seisonable  supplie  be  provided.  May  it  therefor  plese  your  Honors  tak  the  premisses  to 
serious  consideration,  and  out  of  your  spare  fynes  help  to  relieve  our  crying  necessitie,  both 
relating  to  the  fabricke  of  our  kirk  and  our  numberous  poore." 

In  1717,  the  Session  petitioned  King  George  I.  for  an  annual  grant  of  £8  6s  8d  sterling 
(£100  Scots)  '^  to  help  and  support  the  magnificent  and  antient  fabrick  of  St.  Magnus  Church 
in  Kirkwall,  in  use  and  wont  to  be  payed  out  of  the  rents  of  the  Bishopric  in  former  tymes  of 
the  Presbyterian  Government." 

In  July  1770,  the  Rev.  John  Yule  reported  that  he,  with  the  Provost,  had  drawn  up  two 
memorials,  one  to  the  Barons  of  Exchequer  and  the  other  to  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas,  supplicat- 
ing aid  towards  the  upkeep  of  the  church.  These  memorials  were  accompanied  by  **  perspective 
views''  of  the  Cathedral,  and  were  presented  by  Patrick  Graham  of  Graemeshall.  They 
state  '*  that  the  said  cathedral  is  a  very  large  fabrick,  built  by  Rognwald,  Count  of  Orkney." 
They  give  the  dimensions,  number  of  pillars  ;  number  of  couples,  151  ;  half  couples  on  the 
lower  roofs,  238  ;  slater-work,  68  roods  ;  number  of  windows  presently  open,  28  ;  shut  up,  72. 
**That  it  has  been  supported  for  above  these  70  years  past  by  burials,  mort-cloths,  bells, 
marriages,  and  other  small  perquisites,  not  exceeding  £10  a  year  communibus  annis  or  thereby. 
That  this  fabric  is  very  old,  but  is  now  like  to  become  ruinous  for  want  of  a  proper  fund  to 
support  it." 

But  no  permanent  fund  was  obtained  till  1805,  when  a  private  citizen  gave  what  the  Crown 
refused  :— "  I,  Gilbert  Meason  of  Moredun,  hereby  legate  and  bequeath  the  sum  of  £1000 
sterling  to  Robert  Yule  and  Hugh  Stalker,  the  two  present  ministers  of  the  town  and  parish  of 
Kirkwall  and  St.  011a,  and  to  the  Kirk  Treasurer  of  the  said  town  and  parish,  and  to  Thomas 
Traill  of  Frotoft,  Esq.,  provost,  and  Thomas  Jameson,  eldest  baillie  of  the  burgh  of  Kirkwall, 
and  to  Malcolm  Laing  of  Strynzie,  Esq.,  the  Convener  of  the  County  of  Orkney,  during  their 
continuance  in  office  ;  and  to  the  two  ministers  and  kirk-treasurer  of  said  town  and  parish  of 
Kirkwall  and  St.  OUa  for  the  time,  the  provost  and  eldest  bailie  for  the  time  of  the  said  Burgh 
of  Kirkwall,  the  convener  of  the  county  of  Orkney  for  the  time,  and  to  a  residing  freeholder  of 
the  county  of  Orkney  to  be  t^osen  annually  by  the  heritors,  freeholders,  and  commissioners  of 
supply  upon  the  30th  of  April  of  each  year ;  or  if  no  meeting  shall  take  place  on  that  day,  at  the 
first  meeting  which  shall  be  held  during  the  following  Kirkwall  or  Lammas  market :  But  that 
in  trust  only  in  order  that  the  two  ministers,  kirk-treasurer,  provost,  and  eldest  bailie,  convener 
of  the  county,  and  residing  freeholder,  to  be  chosen  in  manner  before  mentioned,  may  lend  out 
the  aforesaid  sum  of  £1000  sterling  upon  a  first  heritable  security  over  a  land  and  estate 
yielding  a  free  yearly  rent  equal  to  7i  per  cent,  of  the  said  sum  of  £1000,  and  call  up  the  same 
when  necessary  and  relend  it  upon  a  similar  heritable  security  ;  and  that  they  may  regularly 
uplift  and  each  year  apply  the  interest  of  the  said  sum  of  £1000  in  keeping  in  repair  the 
cathedral  church  of  St.  Magnus  in  the  aforesaid  burgh  of  Kirkwall,  and  in  order  that  they  may 
apply  any  annual  surplus,  above  what  is  necessary  for  the  said  repairs,  in  opening  up  the 
windows  of  the  said  cathedral  church  that  are  now  shut  up,  and  in  beautifying  and  restoring 
the  fabric  to  its  original  state.  And  I  hereby  declare  that  the  interest  of  the  said  one  thousand 
pounds  shall  never  be  applied  to  any  other  purpose  whatsoever  than  upholding  and  beautifying 
the  said  fabric  ;  and  in  case  of  the  said  interest  or  any  part  thereof  being  applied  to  any  other 
purpose,  I  hereby  give  full  power  and  authority  to  any  heritor  of  the  county  of  Orkney,  or 
burgess  of  the  burgh  of  Kirkwall,  to  raise  an  action  against  any  of  my  trustees  for  the  recovery 
of  the  sum  so  misapplied,  and  that  at  any  time  within  six  years  of  the  misapplication  ;  and  I 
direct  the  sum  so  recovered  to  be  applied  in  the  first  place  for  payment  of  the  expenses  of  the 
aforesaid  prosecution,  and  the  balance  thereof  that  shall  remain  after  payment  of  the  said 


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THE  CATHEDRAL. 


37 


expenses  shall  be  applied,  along  with  the  following  year's  interest  of  the  sum  hereby  mortified, 
for  the  preservation  and  restoration  of  the  aforesaid  cathedral  charch,"  &e. 

The^original  trustees  and  their  successors  have  very  carefully  carried  out  the  testator^s 
desire,  and,  besides  keeping  the  old  building  weathertight,  they  have  been  able,  on  his 
suggestion,  to  open  some  of  the  built-up  windows.* 


Collection  Plate  in  the  Cathedral. 

The  Session  was  as  reckless  in  knocking  holes  in  the  walls  for  the  admission  of  lights  as  in 
closing  up  lights  put  in  by  the  architects.  Apparently  any  one  who  wished  and  would  pay  for 
it  might  have  a  window.  The  Session  ordered  a  window  **  to  be  broken  out  of  the  north  side 
for  light  to  Patrick  Traill  and  William  Mudie's  seat,  13th  September  1686." 

21st  Oct.  1691,  Patrick  Adaroson  was  instructed  to  open  a  window  near  the  Stewarts'  loft. 

8th  May  1693,  Adamson  was  again  instructed  ^  to  strike  out  a  window  at  the  back  of 
Margaret  Elphinston's  seat  for  the  better  lighting  of  that  place  of  the  church." 

It  is  a  significant  fact  that  in  its  direst  distress,  St.  Magnus  received  no  help  from  the 
Town  Council.  James  the  Third's  charter,  upon  which  the  Burgh  Corporation  founds  a 
claim  of  proprietorship  in  the  Cathedral,  grants  with  many  other  things,  "  particularly  all  and 

*  To  Mr  Meason's  legacy  there  is  now  added  a  further  sum  of  £1000,  bequeathed  in  1894  by  Mr 
Francis  Taylor,  farmer  and  land  surveyor.  Mr  Taylor  belonged  to  an  old  Kirkwall  family  which  for 
centuries  held  property  in  the  Laverock.  Many  of  his  foreb^rs  lie  buried  in  the  Cathedral,  and  he 
himself  had  always  a  strong  love  for  the  grand  old  building. 


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38 


KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


Jiaill  the  prebendary  of  St  John,  and  all  and  sundry  lands,  houses,  farms,  tiends,  and  tiend 
sheaves  thereof,  with  full  power  to  the  said  provost,  baillies,  and  Council  of  the  said  burgh. 
And  their  successors,  to  intromit,  uplift,  and  receive  the  same  the  duties  of  the  said  lands,  and 
to  sell  and  raise  the  same  in  all  tyme  coming,  and  that  for  to  be  always  employed  and 
bestowed  upon  repairing  and  upholding  of  the  said  kirk,  called  St.  Magnus  Kirk.^ 

James,  in  right  kingly  fashion,  gave  away  freely  what  did  not  belong  to  him  ;  but,  while 
the  Magistrates  cheerfully  accepted  this  gift  of  lands,  not  till  nearly  two  hundred  years  later 
had  they  a  say  in  Cathedral  matters. 

In  May  1672,  Bishop  Houyman  proposed  to  appoint  his  brother,  George,  minister  of 
Kirkwall.  The  election  was  not  popular,  and  Provost  Patrick  Craigie,  along  with  Arthur 
Baikie,  David  Moncrieff,  and  John  Spence,  three  of  the  bailies,  *' produced  before  the 
reverend  father  and  remanent  brethren  convened  for  the  tyme,  their  gift  of  Katificatione  and 
Corroboratione  granted  be  our  Sovraigne  Lord  the  King's  Matie  to  and  in  favours  of  the  said 
brughe,  in  which  was  contained  the  right  of  Patronage.'' 

Mr  Honyman  was  set  aside,  and  Mr  Wallace,  having  accepted  a  joint  call  from  the 
Bishop  and  Magistrates,  was  appointed.  But  the  civic  rulers,  while  asserting  their  joint  right 
of  patronage,  conveniently  forgot  that  the  charter  on  which  they  founded  this  claim  made 
them  responsible  '*  for  the  repairing  and  upholding  "  of  the  Cathedral  for  all  time  coming. 


APPENDIX  TO  CHAPTER  III. 


It  was  in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  between  1648  and  1667,  that  most  of  the 
lands  in  Orkney  passed  from  udal  to  feudal  tenure,  when  Douglas  of  Spynie  was  Commissioner 
for  Lord  Morton. 

The  list  of  proprietors  who  paid  feu  duty  at  that  time  is  a  long  one  : — 


Buchanan  of  Sandside,  for  lands  in  Deemess. 
Smith  of  Rapness — Deemess  and  Westray. 
Baikie  of  Tankemess — Deemess,  St.  Ancfrews,  St. 

Ola. 
Young  of  Gastleyards — St.  Ola. 
William  Sclaiter— Firth. 
Halcro  of  Crook — Rendall. 
Moir,  Flett,  Sinclair — Harray. 
John  Nisbet — Birsay. 
Geo.  Liddell  and  Joiin  Johnston — ^Birsay. 
Creorge  Ritchie — Harray  and  Firth. 
Thomas  Sinclair — Camstone  and  lands  in  Ronsay, 
Thomas  Craigie  of  S^viskaHl — Rousay. 


George  Balfour  of  Pharay — Westray. 
Thomas  Traill — Westray  and  Papa. 
Mitchell  Rendall— Westray. 
John  and  Alexander  Read — Westray. 
John  Groat  of  Elsness — Sauiday. 
Nicol  Rendall — Westray. 
John  Elphingston — Sanday. 
James  Traill — Sanday  and  Rousay. 
David  Moncrieff— Sanday  and  Birsay. 
William  Douglas — Stronsay. 
Robert  ScoUay — Stronsay. 
Magnus  Boag— Deemess.  * 


^  Ork.  and  Zet.  Chron.,  July  1825. 


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CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Church. 

gRIOR  to  the  Reformation,  St.  Olaf  s  was  the  parish  church  of  Kirkwall,  but  the  people 
were  evidently  negligent  in  attendance,  and  allowed  the  building  to  get  into  a  state  of 
decay.  Bishop  Reid  marked  his  desire  to  keep  the  Cathedral  services  distinct  from 
those  of  the  parish  kirk  by  repairing  St.  Olaf  s.  But  two  places  of  worship  for  members  of 
one  communion  were  more  than  Kirkwall  required,  and  St.  Olaf  s  again  went  to  ruin. 

For  the  requirements  of  worship  under  the  old  rule,  St.  Magnus  was  open  from  the  west 
end  of  the  nave  to  the  east  end  of  the  choir.  Dryden  says  :— "  It  appears  there  were  never 
more  than  five  altars."  Probably  this  would  mean  there  was  architectural  accommodation  for 
five  only,  but  old  rentals  and  the  burgh  records  of  sasine  prove  that  there  were  endowments 
for  more  than  five.  Possibly — and  with  all  respect  the  suggestion  is  offered— several  saints,  or 
rather  their  officiating  priests,  might  share  a  common  altar.  A  mere  superficial  search  brings 
out  a  list  of  fourteen  prebends,  chaplainries,  and  altars  dedicated  to  so  many  separate  saints, 
3ome  of  them  handsomely  endowed.  * 

To  Saint  Duthac,  the  wealthiest  of  them,  was  dedicated  one  of  the  chapels  in  the 
Cathedral. 

The  popularity  of  this  obscure  saint  is  not  easUy  accounted  for.  The  fact  of  his  being  a 
Scottish  prelate  and  a  friend  of  Alexander  III.  should  not  be  expected  to  have  weight  with  a 
Scandinavian  people,  but  as  he  was  Bishop  of  Ross,  the  record  of  his  virtues  had  not  far  to 
travel  from  Dornoch  to  the  Pentland  Firth.  Certain  it  is,  however,  that  his  shrine  held 
property  all  over  the  Mainland. 

St.  Katherine's  altar  was  supported  by  the  rents  of  more  than  a  score  of  farms,  chiefly  in 
St.  Ola,  Holm,  and  Shapinsay. 

r       At  the  time  of  the  Reformation,  Malcolm  Sinclair,  afterwards  of  Quendale,  Shetland,  was 
chaplain  to  St.  Ninian's  altar  in  the  CathedraLf 
(      To  St.  Barbara's  altar  belonged  at  least  one  house  in  Kirkwall. 

St.  Christopher  had  an  altar  endowed  with  land  and  a  house  in  the  Laverock  ;  while,  of 
pourse,  St.  Magnus'  altar  was  richly  endowed.  X 

These  six  altars  are  specially  referred  to  as  such,  but  besides  these  we  have  dedications  of 
lands  to  Saints  Mary,  Columba,  John  the  Evangelist,  Lawrence,  Peter,  Augustine,  Salvator^ 
^ames,  and  possibly  others. 

The  prebendaries  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Augustine  were  respectively  masters  of  the 
{Grammar  School  and  the  "  Sang'*  School,  so  that  their  work  lay  outside  the  Church ;  but  all 
the  other  prebends,  altarages,  and  chaplainries  went  to  the  support  of  the  intramural  worship. 
Jhus  there  must  have  been  under  the  rule  of  Rome  a  very  lai^e  officiating  staff  to  conduct  the 
daily  services.  .        ) 

*  Pet.,  Rent.,  35.,  t  Baikie*s  parchments.  %  R^nit.,  ii.  152,  i.  24,  ii.  6. 


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40  KIRKWALL  ly  THE  OBKNJiiyS. 

Whether  there  were  any  paintings  in  the  Cathedral  cannot  now  be  ascertained,  as  all  that 
was  beautiful  or  valuable  was  stolen  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation.  There  were,  however, 
statues  of  saints,  and  two  of  these,  being  neither  beautiful  nor  intrinsically  valuable,  are  still 
preserved,  and  are  easily  recognised  by  hagiologists  as  representing  Saints  Olaf  and  Magnus. 

Under  Protestantism  the  sermon  soon  came  to  be  regarded  as  the  most  important  part  ot 
the  service,  and,  for  the  convenience  of  speaker  and  audience,  new  arrangements  had  to  be 
made.  The  whole  congregation  gathered  themselves  into  the  choir,  which  was  shut  off  from 
the  transept  by  a  wooden  screen.  The  first  screen  "  was  broken  downe  for  feir  of  fyring  when 
fyre  fell  downe  there  upon  from  the  steeple  head,"  9th  Jan.  1671. 

On  the  fifteenth  of  March  of  the  same  year,  George  Mowat,  wright,  was  ordered  to  put  up 
**  ane  new  partition,  with  deals  having  doores  at  the  entering  in  of  the  quire  as  formerlie." 
In  the  new  screen  there  were  three  doors,  and  over  each  an  inscription.  Above  the  central 
door  was  inscribed,  "  Faith  cometh  by  hearing,  and  hearing  by  the  word  of  God."  The 
north  aisle  door  had,  *'  Enter  into  his  courts  with  praise  "  ;  and  the  south  aisle  entrance,  "  My 
house  shall  be  called  ane  house  of  prayer."  * 

This  screen  was  removed  in  184^  by  workmen  employed  by  the  Government,  and  when 
the  congregation  returned  to  the  Cathedral  the  present  partition  was  put  up. 

The  first  gallery  erected  was  the  Graham's  *'  Loft,"  in  the  south-east  corner  of  the  choir. 
It  was,  no  doubt,  comfortably  furnished  by  the  old  Bishop,  but  the  "  Englishes  "  cleared  out 
the  seats,  leaving  nothing  of  it  but  the  carved  oak  front  and  the  floor. 

It  was  again  ''compendiously  fitted"  for  Bishop  Honynian.  But  though  this  galleiy 
continued  to  be  occupied  by  the  Bishops,  the  Grahams  claimed  it  as  family  property.  There 
was  a  meeting  of  Session,  20th  Nov.  1721,  '*  Whilk  day  Magnus  Mason  represented  to  the 
Session  that  Patrick  Graham  of  Grahamshall  desyred  him  to  crave  of  the  Session  a  liberty  to 
rectify  the  Graham's  Loft,  which  is  altogether  out  of  order.  Whereupon  the  Session  replied 
they  were  willing  the  said  Loft  should  be  rectified,  and,  for  that  effect,  Stenhouse,  Grahams- 
ball,  and  Breckness  had  bein  spoken  to  that  they  would  repair  the  said  Loft,  they  having 
all  interest  in  the  same,  and  the  Session  readily  allows  the  same  to  be  done,  provyding 
always  that  the  same  be  done  without  any  alterations  or  incroachments  on  the  Church  PiUarg 
or  Walls,  and  that  they  pay  to  the  treasurer  nyne  pounds  Scotts  due  upon  the  said  Loft  for  a 
privilege  formerly  granted,  and  ordains  the  treasurer  to  be  present  when  that  Loft  begins  to 
be  repaired,  that  no  incroachments  be  made." 

Bat  as  Grahamshall,  Breckness,  and  Ballenden  respectively  attended  the  churches  of 
Holm,  Stromness,  and  Evie,  this  gallery  was  set  apart  for  the  ui»e  of  visitors.  In  September 
1671,  the  key  was  handed  over  to  the  beadle,  with  strict  injunctions  that  no  idle  boys  were  to 
be  allowed  in  the  fore  seat,  which  was  to  be  "  reserved  for  gentlemen  and  strangers." 

Next  to  his  own  loft,  and  between  the  two  pillars  on  the  south  side  of  the  choir,  Bishop 
Graham  granted  permission,  May  1630,  to  John  Dick,  Sheriff  of  Orkney,  to  erect  a  loft  for 
himself  "  directly  above  that  part  where  Bishop  Tullo's  tombe  now  stands."  Andrew  Dick^ 
brother  of  the  Sheriff,  next  got  this  loft,  the  Session  ordaining  him  "  to  put  ane  lock  and  key 
thereupon  for  his  better  accommodation  to  hear  God's  Word." 

In  the  bay  next  to  the  Dicks'  loft,  and  "facing  the  pulpit,  is  a  seat  for  the  Provost  and 
Magistrates,  Town  Council,  <fec.    This  seat  is  highly  finished  with  paintings,  carvings,  &c."t 

The  Provost  and  Bailies  insisted  on  being  attended  to  church  by  the  Councillors  under 

penalty  of  a  fine  for  absence.    They  all  assembled  in  the  Tolbooth  before  service,  and  were 

marshalled  to  church  by  the  town  officers  carrying  halberds.    Thjis  att^ndf^n^e  of  the  town 

officers  was  considered  an  extra  duty  requiring  a  special  fee,  but,  as  the  money  was  always 

♦  J.  W.  Cureiter*8  papers.  t  Fea,  1787. 


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THE   CHURCH. 


41 


spent  on  ale,  it  was  decided,  23rd  Dec.  1689,  to  pay  on  Monday,  to  prevent  the  burgh  func- 
tionaries from  drinking  on  Sunday. 

The  attendance  of  the  halberdiers  on  church-going  Provosts  was  continued  to  within  the 
memory  of  living  men,  Provost  Traill  of  Woodwick  being  the  last  to  adhere  to  it.  In  the 
present  days  of  dissent,  the  deserted  magisterial  pew,  exactly  opposite  to  what  was  Sheriff 
Dick's  in  the  olden  time,  is  recognisable  by  its  facing  of  crimson  cloth,  but  two  hundred  years 
ago  a  different  taste  prevailed.  The  Treasurer  of  the  Burgh,  1719,  was  commissioned  to  bring 
from  Edinburgh  "  ane  ell  and  three-quarters  of  the  best  six-quarter  broad  green  bloath,  fitt  for 
ane  cloath  to  the  magistrates'  loft,  the  present  cloth  being  moth-eaten  ;  as  also  to  by  ane  large, 
good  printed  Bible,  to  make  up  fyve  Bibles  to  the  Provost  and  Baillies,  and  to  put  ane  hand- 
some cover  of  rid  yron."  * 

Along  the  south  pier  of  the 
choir,  back  to  the  western  pillar, 
stretched  the  Sailors'  Loft,  sup- 
ported in  front  on  wooden  posts. 
From  this  gallery  was  suspended 
the  picture  of  a  ship  as  emble- 
matic of  the  calling  of  the  occu- 
pants, t 

In  the  care  of  wooden  struc- 
tures, sailors  are  a  practical 
people,  and  we  find  that  the 
ancient  mariners  of  Kirkwall 
saw  to  the  security  of  their 
gallery.  In  Jan.  1722,  Thomas 
Louttit,  James  Newgair,  and 
Thomas  Spence,  skippers,  ob- 
tained permission,  at  their  own 
expense,  to.su pport  this  loft  with 
a  new  "  stoup." 

At  right  angles  to  the 
Sailors',  and  on  a  somewhat 
higher  level,  the*  Scholars'  Loft 
strelched  right  across  the  screen. 

It  was  part  of  the  duty  of 
the    master  of   the   Grammar 

School  to  attend  church  with  his  young  folks  on  Sunday,  making  himself  responsible  for  their 
good  behaviour ;  and  while  we  have  frequent  reference  to  idle  and  mischievous  boys  in  other 
parts  of  the  church  behaving  during  service  after  the  instincts  of  their  species,  we  have  not  a 
single  case  of  misconduct  reported  against  the  occupants  of  the  Scholars'  Loft. 

Opposite  the  Sailors'  Loft  was  the  Strangers'  Gallery,  and  opposite  the  Magistrates'  Loft 
was  that  of  the  St.  Glairs.  "  James  Sinclair  being  cited  for  keeping  the  key  of  the  Sinclair's 
loft  in  his  owen  custodie,  and  being  desired  to  give  up  the  same  to  the  Session,  that  the 
church  beddal  might  have  the  keeping  thereof  with  other  keyes,  refused  to  deliver  it  until 
he  had  spoke  with  the  gentlemen  of  the  name  whose  predecessors  caus^  build  the  sd  loft. 
Recomends  to  the  minister  to  speak  my  lord  bishop  what  course  shall  be  taken  yranent."  t 


i 

t' 

i 

1              <^ 
1        ^ 

K     ■'■-"iH 

ii 

t 

I;     .^..-..-..:* 

iM- 

if' 

1 

From  Sailors'  Loft,  St.  Magnus  Cathedral. 


*  Bnrgh  Records.        t  In  J.  W.  Cursiter's  possession. 


S.  R.,  3l8t  May  1675. 


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42  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

My  Lord  Bishop  probably  managed  the  business  qaietly,  for  the  key  does  not  again  appear 
in  the  minutes. 

In  the  bay  east  of  the  Sinclairs'  Loft,  where-  the  Miigistrates'  pew  now  is,  was  the 
Stewarts'  Loft. 

The  pulpit  was  reared  against  the  western  of  the  two  pillars,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
choir. 

How  long  a  pulpit  should  last,  depends  perhaps  to  some  extent  upon  the  powers  of  the 
preachers  occuping  it,  but  by  April  1689  the  Cathedral  required  a  new  one.  For  the  making 
of  it  William  Tait  was  to  have  fifty  pounds  Scots,  but,  if  it  gave  satisfaction,  "  he  was  to  be 
considered  by  and  attour  the  paction."  It  exceeded  expectation,  and  he  received  one  hundred 
marks,  with  half  a  dollar  to  his  man.  * 

The  old  pulpit  had  been  very  handsome,  and  was  probably  the  gift  of  one  of  the  earls. 
^'  In  this  Cathedral  I  found  thrown  aside  a  piece  of  carved  wood,  which  attracted  my  notice. 
It  is  a  board  of  a  foot  and  five  inches  long.  On  this  board  are  carved  the  hands  and  feet  of 
our  Saviour,  in  the  form  nf  a  St.  Andrew's  cross.  The  upper  part  of  the  cross  is  composed  of 
the  hands,  the  lower  of  the  feet,  a  foot  being  opposed  to  each  hand.  In  the  center,  where  the 
hands  and  feet  meet,  there  is  a  crown  of  thorns  ;  in  the  center  of  the  crown,  a  heart  pierced  on 
the  left  side.  In  the  vacant  space  on  one  side  are  three  nails  and  three  dice  ;  on  the  other,  a 
scourge.  The  whole  was  overtopped  by  an  earPs  coronet,  but  it  is  now  broken  off  from  the 
board,  and  the  board  itself  is  rent  through  the  middle  vertically.  I  was  informed  that  this 
piece  of  carving  stood  formerly  on  the  fore  part  of  the  old  pulpit,  which,  falling  to  decay,  a  new 
one  was  erected  in  its  place  in  1689.  How  this-  remnant  of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion 
escaped  the  zealous  eyes  of  the  first  reformers  is  to  me  a  mystery."  f 

On  the  south  side  of  the  choir,  opposite  the  pulpit,  was  a  handsome  canopied  throne. 
This,  which  in  pre-Reformation  times  was  probably  the  throne  of  the  bishop,  became  under 
the  Stewarts  the  seat  of  the  earl. 

When  Lord  Morton  accused  the  Magistrates  of  having  destroyed  his  seat  in  the  church, 
they  "  denyed  any  breaking  down  of  the  same  ;  and  if  any  pairt  thereof  was  wronged  it  was  by 
the  Englishes,  as  the  pulpit  and  the  rest  of  the  seats  in  the  church  was  broken  down  and 
brunt" 

Plainly  only  a  part  of  the  earl's  seat  was  injured — possibly  the  soft  wood  fittings — ^and  so 
with  the  pulpit,  for  it  is  a  very  remarkable  fact  that  Cromwell's  so-called  fanatical  saints 
spared  all  the  old  carved  work  of  the  Cathedral. 

Private  persons,  for  a  consideration,  were  allowed  to  erect  jiews  for  the  accommodation  of 
their  families,  and  at  first  these  seem  to  have  been  planted  without  regard  to  system.  This 
want  of  order  resulted  in  frequent  bickerings  among  neighbours  and  appeals  to  the  Session 
for  arbitration. 

When  once  a  pew  had  been  erected,  it  was  regarded  as  heritable  property,  and  the  right 
of  the  next-of-kin  was  generally  acknowledged  by  the  authorities,  and  this  the  more  promptly 
if  a  donation  accompanied  the  claim.  On  special  occasions  it  was  necessary  that  some  of  the 
pews  should  be  moveable,  as,  for  example,  11th  March  1678,  the  Session  *'  Ordains  ane  table 
to  be  sett  upon  the  gries,  and  all  the  elders  to  be  admitted  next  Lord's  day  are  to  sitt 
publicklie  in  decencie  and  order,  wher  they  are  to  hear  ane  exhortation  concerning  ther 
duetie.  And  ordains  Pennyland's  seat  to  be  removed  pro  tempore  for  the  better  accom- 
modation." 

The  stalls  erected  by  Bishop  Maxwell  at  the  east  end  of  the  choir  were  occupied  by  the 
Magistrates,  with  consent  of  the  Session,  when  they  laid  aside  official  pomp  and  attended 
*  S.  R.,  2l8t  Oct  1689.  t  Principal  Oordon. 


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THE  CHUBGH. 


43 


church  with  their  families.  David  Moncrieff,  19th  May  1673,  petitions  for  a  seat  in  the  stalk 
for  "  himselfe,  bedfellow,  their  airs  and  successors,"  for  which  he  will  pay  £20  Scots.  Thia 
was  granted,  though  David  Covingtrie  produced  a  heritable  right  to  the  seat,  "  which  the 


Choir,  St.  Magnus  Cathedral,  showing  the  Graham's  Loft  and  Earrs  Seat.     The 
carved  stone  shown  in  pier  to  the  right  is  in  situ  under  the  east  window. 

Session  did  repell  in  respect  that  the  disponer  possessed  himself  merely  as  one  of  the  Bailies 
of  Kirkwall." 

On  8th  July  1678,  George  Traill  and  his  son-in-law,  David  Covingtrie,  apply  for  seats  in 


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44  KIKKWALL   IN    THE   ORKNEYS. 

the  church  for  themselves  and. bedfellows,  and  get,  at  "the  upper  part  of  the  stalls  on  the 
south  side,  two  chair  rowme,  with  power  to  them  to  reforme  and  repair  the  samen  in  the  best 
forme  they  shall  think  expedient  without  prejudice  of  the  comon  passage,  lights,  or  ordinar 
hearing  of  the  people,  with  this  special  provision  that,  if  it  shall  happen  the  stalls  to  be 
modellized  and  reformed  into  pewis  together  with  ther  seat,  then  and  in  that  case  the  saids 
George  and  David  and  ther  servands  ar  first  to  be  preferred  to  ther  owen  seats -or  pewis  to  be 
erected  in  their  rowme."  This  shows  that  the  church  court  was  paying  special  attention  to 
the  stalls  at  this  time,  and  the  Session  at  its  meeting  the  week  following  "  Ordains  Robert 
Murray  to  permit  no  idle  boys  or  prentises  to  sitt  in  the  lower  part  of  the  stalls,  but  onlie  to 
be  possest  be  honest  men  in  the  parochin." 

The  elders  on  duty  for  the  day  also  sat  in  the  stalls. 

The  Corporation  of  Taylors  got  "five  chairs'  room,"  with  power  to  put  up  a  middle 
division  with  two  leaning  boards,  "  without  altering,  defacing,  or  demolishing  any  of  the  old 
work."* 

James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  evidently  with  the  consent  of  the  authorities,  put  up  a  pew 
for  himself  in  the  Stewarts'  aisle  under  the  Stewarts'  loft. 

Finding  it  too  small  for  his  family,  he  obtained  permission  to  put  up  another  in  front  of 
the  first,  if  it  could  be  "conveniently  done  without  offence  or  stop  to  the  service  of  the 
communion,  to  stay  the  entrie  or  passage  to  the  table  or  pulpit."  t  But  here  Edward  Stewart 
of  Br  ugh  interposed,  alleging  that  he  was  commissioned  by  his  brother,  the  Earl  of  Carrick,  to 
see  "  that  the  Stewarts'  yle  might  be  made  void  for  the  said  noble  Earl  and  others  of  their 
name  to  build  theirin  what  may  be  pleasing."  Baikie  would  not  stir,  and  the  Session  could 
take  no  steps,  as  the  Bishop  was  from  home. 

Bishop  Graham  returned  and  went  south  again  without  venturing  to  deal  with  the 
troublesome  pew.  At  length,  when  he  could  defer  the  case  no  longer,  he  assumed  wrath  and 
rated  Baikie  for  not  being  "  more  carefull  and  foreseeing  to  prevent  the  danger  in  tyme,  and 
not  to  incur  the  indignation  of  such  noblemen  as  the  Earl  of  Carrick  and  others  of  the  worthie 
name  of  Stewart  pretending  right  and  title  to  that  yle  ;  for  it  would  come  to  his  Majestie's 
eares  how  such  persone  did  sit  there  and  trample  upon  his  hieness  graund-uncle's  bellie,t  being 
his  burrall  place,  as  the  said  noble  Erie  had  written  to  my  Lord  Bishop  himself  in  a  particular 
letter." 

Baikie  remaining  stubborn,  the  Bishop  removed  the  woodwork  "out  of  his  owne 
authoritie,"  leaving  the  owner  to  "  employ  it  to  what  he  pleased." 

The  fact  of  Baikie  having  a  seat  in  the  Stewarts'  aisle  was  probably  the  result  of  an 
edict  of  the  Bishop  and  Session  two  years  previously§  : — "  Ordains  intimation  to  be  made  to 
.the  Laird  of  GraBmsay  and  to  the  name  of  Sinclair,  that  if  their  two  seates  be  not  completly 
builded  betwix  this  and  pasche  day  nixt  to  cum,  the  Session  heirafter  will  dispose  upon  them, 
and  outred  them  upon  their  charges  as  they  shall  find  to  be  expedient  both  for  easing  of  their 
awne  congregation  and  likewise  for  strangers." 

The  same  year  Sir  James  Stewart  and  the  Laird  of  Grsemsay  had  another  seat  removed 
from  the  same  aisle,  leaving  apparently  only  the  pew  of  the  Laird  of  Halcro.  The  Earl  of 
Carrick's  seat,  if  he  chose  to  occupy  it,. was,  as  has  been  shown,  the  gallery  above,  the  front 
:fleat  of  which  is  now  set  apart  for  the  use  of  the  Magistrates. 

When  Edward  Stewart,  who  had  begun  the  disturbance  with  Baikie,  asked  leave  a  few 
months  later  "  to  big  a  seat  for  his  wife  or  a  friend,  with  a  foot  gang  before  the  same  to  his 
daughters  to  sit  upon,"  in  the  space  that  had  been  cleared,  it  was  refused  till  he  should  get 
written  permission  from  the  Earl  of  Carrick. 

♦  S.  R.,  April  1676.        t  13th  March  1631.        t  Lord  Robert.        §  11th  Jan.  1629. 


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THE  CHURCH.  45 

By  and  by,  however,  we  find  the  Session  dealing  with  the  spaces  in  this  aisle  as  freely  as 
if  "  the  worthie  name  of  Stewart "  had  become  extinct. 

They  put  up  three  new  pews  on  the  site  from  which  Baikie's  seat  had  been  removed,  and 
gave  to  David  Sutherland  of  Windbreck  the  "  midmost  of  the  three." 

This  was  for  his*  services  in  procuring  from  the  Treasury  £200  for  the  repairing  of  the 
church. 

Nearly  one  hundred  years  later  this  aisle  was  again  the  subject  of  disputes.  Alexander 
Muat,  "  nearest  heir  in  lyf e "  to  Hugh  Halcro  of  that  ilk,  gave  up  his  right  to  the  Halcro's 
seat,  "  Lyand  in  the  mid  ysland  on  the  east  side  of  the  pulpit,  to  his  cusine,  James  McKenzie, 
Toune  Clerk  of  Kirkwall."  On  this  David  Craigie  of  Gairsay  wrote  to  Mr  Baikie,  minister : — 
"  Reverend  Sir,  in  answer  t.o  yours  of  the  tenth  instant.  My  Fredicessors  and  I  have  bein  in 
possession  of  that  seat,  which  bears  Halcro's  name  andarmes  and  the  Craigies  and  the 
Crightons,  and  I  am  resolved  to  maintain  my  pocession,  yet  I  am  well  pleased  that  James 
McKenzie  and  his  family  have  liberty  therein,  Provyding  that  I  and  my  family  have  access 
thereto  when  in  town.  I  salute  you  kindly  and  your  spouse  and  family,  and  am.  Sir,  Your 
Humble  Servant,  David  Craigie.    Kirkl.,  17th  July  1721." 

Seats,  being  regarded  as  heritable  property,  were  turned  iiito  cash  as  freely  as  any  other 
chattels,  and  persons  having  no  right  to  sittings  but  what  use  and  wont  gave  them,  sold  their 
claims  without  the  least  compunction.  Accordingly,  we  have  the  Session  and  Bishop  **  taking 
to  their  consideration  the  greit  abuse  of  severall  persons  in  this  congregation  who  tak  upon 
them  to  sell,  alienate,  and  dispone  seats  in  the  church  as  if  they  were  their  awen  proper 
heritage,"  and  x)assing  an  Act  making  such  dispositions  of  no  effect.* 

This  practice  made  them  more  careful  in  the  disposal  of  seats.  "When  David  Moncrieff, 
bailie  and  elder,  got  for  "  hiraselfe,  bedfellow,  their  airs  and  successors,"  a  seat  in  the  staUs,  it 
was  expressly  stated  that  they  should  have  no  right  to  sell,  but,  as  son  succeeded  father, 
"  every  new  possessor  shall  pay  a  gratuitie  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  Session." 

In  1721,  Provost  Covingtrie  had  the  third  seat  back  from  the  altar  steps,  while  the  fourth 
belonged  to  Baikie  of  Tankerness.  Covingtrie  got  permission  from  the  Session,  with  Baikie's 
consent,  to  turn  both  pews  into  one  square  seat  with  a  table.  Tankerness  had  removed  from 
the  middle  of  the  church  to  a  pew  with  a  canopy  in  the  east  bay  of  the  north  aisle. 

On  a  pew  becoming  vacant  in  a  desirable  part  of  the  church,  it  was  very  quickly  picked 
up  by  the  person  who  could  bring  most  influence  to  bear  upon  the  Session. 

Captain  Peter  Winchester  had  a  very  snug  seat  under  the  stair  leading  to  the  Dick's  Loft, 
and  he  "  disponed"  it.  May  1684,  to  the  Rev.  James  Wallace,  minister  of  Kirkwall.  At  such 
transfers  the  church,  as  superior,  claimed  a  feu  duty. 

For  lone  women  the  Session  put  up  pews,  and  let  them  to  as  many  of  that  class  as  would 
take  them. 

'*  David  Scatter,  kirk  officer,  was  ordained  to  intimate  to  the  women  who  sits  in  the 
Women's  Isle  that  their  new  pews  (were)  to  be  built  under  the  Magistrates'  Loft,  and  to  know 
if  they  incline  to  farm  any  of  them." 

"  After  prayer,  it  was  appointed  that  those  who  sitts  in  the  women's  pews,  which  were 
lately  erected  before  the  Earle's  seat  and  the  Latron  of  the  pulpit,  should  be  charged  to 
exhibit  their  acts  and  rights  why  they  sitt  yr."  t 

The  lectern  was  attached  to  the  pillar  opposite  to  that  which  supported  the  pulpit. 

When  there  was  in  Kirkwall  no  earl  to  occupy  the  canopied  seat  of  the  Stewarts,  the 
irriepressible  boy  took  possession  of  it,  so  that  the  Session  had  it  "  nailed  up  and  locked." 

When  Bishop  Qraham  erected  his  loft  in  the  south  aisle  of  the  choir,  he  kept  th« 
♦  Oct.  19,  1670.  t  4th  April  1698. 


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46  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

corresponding  space  in  the  north  aisle  vacant ;  but  on  the  floor  of  that  bay  Monteith  of 
f^ilshay  put  up  a  large  pew  with  a  canopy. 

In  1767,  the  sitting  accommodation  in  the  church  being  found  too  limited,  the  Session 
proceeded  to  erect  a  gallery  in  the  north-east  bay.  This  called  forth  the  following  protest : — 
'*  At  Kirkwall,  and  upon  the  High  Street  thereof,  betwixt  the  hours  of  Twelve  at  mid  day  and 
one  of  the  afternoon  of  the  fourth  day  of  May,  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  One  thousand  seven 
hundred  and  sixty  seven,  and  of  his  Majesty's  Reign  the  seventh  year,  in  presence  of  me, 
Nottary  Publick,  and  witnesses  after  named  and  subscribing,  and  in  presence  of  Mr  Hugh 
Sutherland,  one  of  the  ministers  of  the  Qospel  at  Kirkwall,  and  conjunct  Moderator  of  the 
Kirk  Sessions  thereof,  and  of  Andrew  Liddle,  Treasurer  to  the  said  Kirk  of  Kirkwall  and 
acting  Manager  and  Doer  for  the  said  Kirk  Sessions ;  Compeared  John  Riddock,  Esq., 
Provost  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  as  Pror.  for  and  having  commission  from  Robert  Baikie, 
£i^.  of  Tankerness,  heritable  proprietor  of  that  seat  within  the  church  of  Kirkwall  commonly 
called  the  seat  of  the  Family  of  Egilshay ;  With  the  consent  and  concurrence  of  the  said 
Robert  Baikie's  curators  for  their  interests  (whose  power  of  Prory.  was  clearly  known  to  me, 
Nottary  Publick),  and  represented  to  the  said  Mr  Hugh  Sutherland  and  Andrew  Liddle, 
That,  Whereas  They  and  the  said  Kirk  Session  were  Erecting,  and  in  the  course  of  Building, 
a  new  Loft  or  seat  within  the  said  Kirk  of  Kirkwall,  above  the  Burial  place  there  belonging 
to  the  Earldom  of  Orkney,  and  which  now  belongs  in  property  to  the  Honnble.  Sir  Lawrence 
Dundas,  Bart.,  which  new  loft  or  seat  they  and  the  said  Kirk  Session  have  made  to  Project  so 
far  into  the  area  of  said  church  as  to  Darken  and  Eclipse  the  light  and  View  of  other  seats 
therein,  and  particularly  of  the  fore  mentioned  seat  of  Egilshay,  now  the  property  of  his  said 
constituent,  a  Minor ;  By  which  illegal  and  unwarrantable  Invasion  and  Encroachment  of 
Property,  they  and  the  said  Kirk  Session  had  also  Debarred  and  Excluded  his  said 
Constituent  from  the  use  of  his  property  in  the  ordinary  Burial  place  of  the  said  Family  of 
Egilshay,  Below  or  underneath  his  said  seat,  by  rendering  it  Impracticable  to  shift  or  Remove 
said  seat  when  he  might  have  necessary  occasion  to  Digg  a  Grave  therein,  without  Greatly 
Dammaging  the  same.  The  said  John  Riddock,  as  Provost  of  the  said  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  and 
in  name  of  the  Ramanent  Magistrates  and  community  thereof,  as  also  in  name  of  his  said 
Constituent,  a  principal  and  considerable  heretor  within  the  Parish  of  St.  OUay,  within  which 
the  said  Church  stands,  did  also  farther  Represent  to  them  and  the  said  Kirk  Session  that  the 
whole  area  of  said  Church  belongs  by  Law  to  the  Inhabitants  of  said  Burgh,  who  are  heretors 
of  the  said  Parish,  and  That,  tho'  the  heretors  have  permitted  the  Kirk  Session  to  sett  off  and 
otherwise  dispose  of  the  seats  within  the  Area  for  the  better  support  of  the  fabrick.  Yet  any 
such  Tacit  permission  or  Tolerance  can  never  Establish  a  Right  of  Property  therein  to  the 
Kirk  Session,  far  less  can  it  authorize  or  justify  them  in  the  Arbitrary  Disposal  of  said  seats 
contrary  to  Law,  which  they  have  so  long  and  so  unwarrantably  assumed  to  themselves,  and 
still  less  can  they  be  permitted  or  authorized  to  make  any  inconvenient  encroachment  on  the 
property  of  others'  seats  as  has  been  above  Represented." 

To  this  Mr  Sutherland  answered  that  from  time  immemorial  the  Kirk  Session  had  let 
seats,  and  had  by  this  means  been  able  **  in  a  surprising  manner  to  keep  up  the  large  Fabrick 
of  the  Kirk  allways  in  good  Repair,  as  well  as  to  supply  the  poor  of  Town  and  Parish,  and  no 
heretor  or  Inhabitant  of  Kirkwall  or  St.  Ollay  had  ever  paid  or  indeed  been  charged  with  a 
single  farthing  for  that  purpose." 

He  said  that  as  complaints  were  constantly  being  "  made  to  them  for  want  of  seats  in  the 
Kirk,  and  many  were  every  Sunday  kept  at  home  in  their  houses  upon  that  account,  the 
Session  thought  it  a  duty  highly  incumbent  on  them  to  allow  no  part  of  the  Kirk  to  remain 
unoccupied." 


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THE  CHURCH.  47 

As  to  darkening  the  seat,  lie  asserted  "  that  the  seat  is  as  much  and  more  darkened  by 
the  cover  that  is  over  it  than  it  possibly  can  be  by  the  loft.  As  affecting  burials,  the  loft  was 
not  in  any  way  attached  to  the  seat,  and,  as  to  its  projecting,  it  simply  corresponded  with  the 
Graemes'  Loft  opposite,  which  it  was  intended  to  match."    'Die  protest  was  of  no  avail 

Many  persons  could  not  pay  for  sittings,  and  some  of  these  would  take  possession  of  the 
highest  seats  in  the  synagogue  : — *  "Qlk  day  the  minister  and  elders  of  the  Session,  having 
considered  the  great  incivilitie  and  rudeness  of  the  baser  sort  among  the  people  of  this 
congregation,  who,  being  set  downe  in  the  chiefest  seatis  of  the  kirk,  would  not  rise  up  to  give 
place  to  their  betters  and  superiors.  Ordains  that  whosoever  heirafter  (due  intimation  being 
made  out  of  the  pulpit)  shall  sitt  within  the  seatts  commonly  called  the  stals  above  the  doores 
new  made,  except  gentlemen,  strangers,  or  elders  of  the  Session,  being  elders  at  the  tyme, 
shall  pay  to  the  boxe  size  shillings  toties  quoties/' 

The  present  use  of  the  choir  as  a  presbyterian  place  of  worship  does  not  give  universal 
satisfaction. 

"The  choir,  which  is  used  as  the  parish  church,  has  been  rendered  hideous  by  pews, 
gallaries,  whitewashed,  pinkwashed,  or  yellow-ochred  pillars,  and  a  tawdry  deal  screen  which 
shuts  off  the  choir  from  the  nave.**  f 

This  arrangement  is  generally  attributed  to  presbyterian  taste,  so  utterly  unappreciative 
of  the  beauties  of  the  Cathedral  But  the  first  screen,  which  there  is  no  reason  to  suppose 
was  any  better  than  the  last,  was  erected  in  the  vain  hope  of  protecting  an  episcopal 
congregation  from  discomforting  western  draughts ;  the  first  gallery  was  hung  between  piUar 
and  gable  by  an  episcopal  bishop  "  for  his  better  hearing  the  word  of  Qod,"  and  all  the  others 
were  sanctioned  by  the  same  prelate.  Even  the  white-wash  is  in  its  inception  episcopal, 
dating  from  the  days  of  good  old  Bishop  MacKenzie.  "  Tuesday  !t — David  Seatter,  Belman, 
entered  his  work  in  whitening  S.  Magnus  Kirk,  within  the  choir  thereof,  with  lime  and  other 
necessaries  for  that  effect.'' 

From  the  Reformation  to  the  present  day  there  have  been  sixteen  ministers  in  the  first 
charge,  nine  episcopal  and  seven  presbyterian. 

Gilbert  Foulzie,  the  Romish  Archdeacon  under  Bishop  Bothwell,  was  the  first  protestant 
priest  of  Kirkwall.  He  was  followed  by  Thomas  Suenton,  1685;  Patrick  Inglis,  161—; 
James  Heind,  163 — ;  George  Johnstowne,  1642 ;  James  Douglas,  1647,  deposed  1659  and  a 
presbyterian  put  in  his  place,  re-instated  1662 ;  James  Wallace,  1672 ;  John  Wilson,  1689, 
deprived  1694. 

The  first  presbyterian  minister  was  Alexander  Lennox,  inserted  for  four  years,  1659-1662, 
into  the  middle  of  Mr  Douglas'  ministry.  The  next  was  Thomas  Balkie  of  Bumess,  1697, 
followed  by  Edward  Irving,  1741 ;  John  Yule,  1747 ;  Robert  Yule,  1789 ;  William  Logie, 
1824  ;  Wm.  Spark,  1866  ;  John  Rutherford,  1883. 

Before  the  second  charge  was  recognised,  the  priest  was  assisted  by  a  reader,  who  was 
vicar  of  St.  Ola.  David  Watson,  "reidar  at  the  Kirk  of  Kirkwall,"  witnesses  a  deed,  18th 
Aug.  1624.  This  was  in  the  incimibency  of  Mr  Patrick  Inglis^  and  possibly  Watson  was  the 
first  protestant  vicar  of  St.  Ola.  The  emoluments  of  this  office  were  so  small  that  the 
appointment  would  only  be  accepted  in  the  hope  of  a  speedy  preferment  to  a  better,  yet 
Watson's  successor,  George  Mudie,  held  the  position  for  thirty-three  years,  during  part  of 
which  time  he  acted  as  master  of  the  Grammar  School  without  any  additional  remuneration. 
*'  George  Mudie,  reidare  at  Kirkwall,"  sold,  2nd  May  1626,  "  all  and  haill  (his)  haill  viccarage 
buttire  off  the  parochin  of  St.  Allawis,  extending  to  fyffe  barrellis  Orknay  buttire."  Bailie 
Thomas  Lentron  was  the  purchaser. 

♦  1629,  April  29.  f  Tudor.  t  T.  B.,  22nd  Feb.  1687. 


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48  KIRK\YALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

James  Reid  got  the  appointment  in  1660,  and,  after  holding  it  for  three  years,  the 
Presbytery  appealed  to  the  congregation  for  an  augmentation  of  his  salary.  But  at  a  meeting 
of  the  Synod,  9th  July  1663,  the  inhabitants  of  Kirkwall  "  declare  that  they  are  neither  willing 
nor  able  to  contribute  anything  towards  the  stipend  of  Mr  Beid,  and  as  to  ane  qualified  reader 
for  morning  and  evening  prayers,  they  declair  that  the  constant  stipend  and  mortification 
belonging  to  the  reader  is  now  possest  and  lifted  up  by  Mr  James  Reid,  and  they  think,  since 
he  takes  up  the  benefite  and  stipend  dew  to  the  reader,,  he  sould  serve  the  service  of  the 
leader.  Or,  if  Mr  James  Reid  will  quyt  that  provision,  they  sail  be  content  yt  the  Bp.  provyd 
for  ane  qualifyed  reader  yt  will  doe  the  service.    Oyr  ansr  they  have  none." 

Mr  Reid,  no  doubt  to  his  great  satisfaction,  was  translated  to  North  Leith  the  same  year. 
He  was  the  last  reader  in  the  Cathedral,  his  successors  to  the  present  day  being  ministers  of 
the  second  charge. 

But  while  the  title  and  status  of  the  incumbents  had  been  raised,  the  stipend  remained 
small.  In  1703  Alexander  Nisbet  was  ordained,  but  within  a  year  he  accepted  a  call  to 
Shapinsay,  being,  as  he  said,  "  obliged  to  leave  for  want  of  sustenance." 

His  successor,  Mr  Andrew  Ker,  a  clerical  Ishmael,  succeeded  in  moving  the  General 
Assembly  of  1705  to  take  action  in  the  matter  of  stipend.  The  case  was  represented  to  Her 
Majesty,  Queen  Anne,  and  a  sum  of  five  hundred  merks  per  annum  out  of  the  bishopric  rents 
was  set  apart  for  the  minister  of  the  second  charge. 

Mr  Ker,  having  secured  a  stipend,  next  began  to  agitate  for  a  manse,  but  his  translation 
to  Rathven,  in  17^,  left  this  desirable  object  unattained.  Mr  Ker  had,  however,  left  the 
second  charge  a  more  confortable  office  than  he  had  found  it,  and  looking  back  over  the  list  of 
incumbents,  one  effect  of  the  improvement  becomes  apparent.  In  the  forty-four  years,  1660  to 
1704,  when  "  fyffe  barrelUs  Orknay  buttire  "  formed  the  bulk  of  the  income,  eleven  ministers 
held  the  charge,  giving  an  average  pastorate  of  four  years  ;  while,  during  the  hundred  and 
ninety  odd  years  which  have  elapsed  since  Queen  Anne's  grant,  Mr  Walker,  the  present 
incumbent,  is  only  the  thirteenth,  an  average  of  about  fifteen  years. 

When  the  choir  was  shut  in  and  set  apart  for  worship,  the  nave  soon  came  to  be  sadly 
desecrated  : — 1620,  Dec.  3,  "  Qlk  day  my  Lord  Bishop  wt  the  rest  of  the  Sessione,  having 
considerit  the  gryt  abuse  that  hes  bene  usit  in  the  kirk  be  working  and  sawing  of  tymber  be 
anie  Particklar  man  that  dwellis  within  the  towne  of  Kirkwall,  hes,  with  ane  consent,  ordainit 
that  quhatsomever  person  or  persons  presumis  in  the  contrarie  shall  pay  20s.  to  his  quoties  aa 
weil  thaine  that  sawis  as  thame  that  awis  the  tymber." 

But  the  greatest  scandal  was  the  "  more  than  barbarous  practice  of  the  town-guard  of 
BLirkwall,  at  the  time  of  the  Lammas  fair,  their  keeping  guard  within  the  church,  shutting  of 
guns,  burning  great  fyres  on  the  graves  of  the  dead,  drinking,  fidling,  pipeing,  swearing  and 
cursing  night  and  day  within  the  church."  * 

This  desecration  was  only  removed  by  the  erection  of  a  guard-house  in  1702. 

•  S.  R.,  23rd  Dec.  1690— James  Laugh  ton  is  to  have  two  shillings  Scots  weekly  **  for  cleaning  out 
the  ashes  while  the  guard  is  in  the  Cathedral. " 


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CHAPTER  V. 

Cathedral  as  Burial-Place. 

fT  has  been  seen  that  when  Earl  Magnus  wais  murdered,  1115,  his  body  was  conveyed  to 
Birsay  and  buried  in  Christ  Church.  It  was  afterwards  disinterred,  and  with  im|)osing 
^^  ceremonial  conveyed  to  Kirkwall.  A  series  of  stiinding  stones,  some  of  which  are  still 
to  be  seen,  marked  the  spots  where  the  sacred  coffin  rested. 

In  the  relic-hunting  rage  of  the  Middle  Ages,  the  absurdity  of  an  obscure  hamlet  in  a 
remote  island  possessing  a  whole  saintly  skeleton  became  widely  apparent,  and  numerous 
claims  were  made  upon  Kirkwall.  So  many  portions  were  taken  abroad  and  deposited 
among  the  treasures  of  continental  shrines  that,  in  his  own  church,  little  was  left  of  the 
mortal  remains  of  St.  Magnus.  Prague  and  Rome  have  been  named  as  possessing  some  of 
these  relics.* 

In  a  cavity  in  the  west  end  of  the  north  pier  of  the  choir  are  some  bones  which  have  been 
concealed  with  pious  care.  These  have  been  regarded  as  part  of  the  body  of  St.  Magnus^ 
hidden  away  at  the  time  of  the  Reformation  to  secure  them  from  Protestant  desecration. 
They  were  examined  in  1867  by  Lord  Bute,  Doctors  Logie  an  I  Kirkpatrick,  Mr  Iverach^ 
chemist,  and  Mr  Greorge  Petrie  ;  and  the  last-named  gentleman  has  recorded  the  fact  that  the 
jawbone  did  not  belong  to  the  skull  beside  which  it  lay. 

This  would  only  go  to  show  that  beside  the  relics  of  St.  Magnus  was  deposited  a  fragment 
of  some  other  saint.  It  certainly  was  religious  zeal  that  placed  these  bones  in  their  remark- 
able hiding-place.  Their  discovery  came  about  through  the  careless  stroke  of  a  workman's 
hammer  indicating  a  hollow  in  what  appeared  to  be  solid  mason ly. 

Of  Rognwald's  contemporaries.  Earl  Erlend,  who  was  slain  at  Damsay,  1155,  was  the 
first  to  be  buried  here. 

In  1168,  Bishop  William  the  Old,  who  consecrated  the  Cathedral,  was  interred  near  the 
grave  of  St.  Magnus.  During  the  repairs  by  the  Government  in  1848,  a  chest,  made  of 
separate  slabs,  of  stone,  was  discovered  between  the  two  pillars  of  the  Stewarts*  aisle.  "  It 
was  about  2  ft.  6  in.  long,  1  ft.  3  in.  wide,  and  1  ft.  3  in.  deep,  put  together  with  mortar.  In 
it  was  a  skeleton  doubled  up  carefully,  with  the  upper  part  of  the  body  in  the  projier  position. 
With  it  was  an  article  of  ivory,  like  the  cross  handle  of  a  walking  stick,  with  an  iron  pin  fixed 
in  it.  On  the  breast,  close  to  the  chin,  was  a  piece  of  lead,  7  J  x  2.1  inches,  inscribed,  *  Hie 
requiescit  Wilialmus  felicis  memoriae,'  and  on  the  back,  *  Pmus.  Epb.'  It  is  evident  that  thia 
was  a  reinterment,  and  probably  the  bones  were  removed  to  their  last  position  from  the  choir 
of  the  first  church  when  the  addition  was  made  to  the  east  part  of  it."  t 

In  1856,  chest  and  bones  were  cleared  out,  and  the  dust  of  the  venerable  Bishop  wa* 
mingled  with  the  common  clay  of  the  churchyard. 

*  The  Marquis  of  Bute  has  ascertained  that  at  all  events  the  Bohemian  City  has  no  relic  of  the 
Orcadian  saint.  t  Dryden. 

H 


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•50  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  OKKNEVS. 

When  Earl  Rognwald  was  slain  in  Caithness,  1158,  "  Earl  Harald  brought  the  body,  with 
A  splendid  following,  to  the  Orkneys,  and  it  was  buried  at  the  Magnus  Kirk  ;  and  there  it 
rested  until  God  manifested  Rognwald^s  merits  by  many  and  great  miracles.  Then  Bishop 
Bjarni  had  his  holy  remains  exhumed  with  the  permission  of  the  Pope."  * 

The  Saga  rather  crowds  events  together.  Had  Rognwald  been  buried  by  Harald  in  the 
Cathedral,  the  disinterment  referred  to  would  have  been  unnecessary,  but  his  companions 
Iburied  him  in  the  first  church  they  came  to,  Lady  Kirk,  in  South  Ronaldshay  ;  hence  this  act 
of  Bishoj)  Bjarni. 

A  skeleton,  supposed  to  be  his,  lies  entombed  in  the  wall  of  the  south  choir  aisle,  under 
the  opening  into  Marwick's  Hole. 

Earl  Rognwald  was  canonised,  1192. 

During  the  winter  of  1263,  the  body  of  the  brave  but  hapless  Haco  of  Norway  lay  under 
Cathedral  consecration,  but  in  the  spring  of  the  following  year  it  was  taken  to  Norway  to  be 
laid  beside  the  remains  of  the  old  Norwegian  kings. 

Margaret,  the  Maid  of  Norway,  grand-daughter  of  Alexander  III.  of  Scotland,  is  often 
spoken  of  as  being  buried  in  the  Cathedral,  and  her  grave,  according  to  tradition,  was  under  a 
slab  of  gi-ey  marble  near  the  south-east  pier  of  the  choir ;  but,  dead  or  living,  the  poor 
princess  was  never  in  Kirkwall.  She  died  at  sea,  1290,  and  her  body  was  taken  back  to 
Bergen  under  the  charge,  in  addition  to  her  Norwegian  suite,  of  Bishop  Dolgfinnr.t 

A  letter  from  the  Bishop  of  Bergen,  written  twenty  years  after  the  event,  relates  the 
circumstances  of  the  return  voyage. 

The  tomb  of  Bishop  Thomas  Tulloch  was  between  the  two  pillars  on  the  south  side  of  the 
choir.  Sir  Henry  Dryden  says  : — "  It  had  elaborate  buttresses  at  the  angles  and  seven  niches 
on  the  face,  and  must  have  been  a  rich  work  of  art,  cut  in  gi'eenish  freestone  not  of  the  country." 
As  late  as  1848  the  base  of  the  north  side  was  in  situ.  "  From  fragments  it  ai)pears  to  have  had 
a  canopy.  Under-ground  was  an  arched  tomb,  in  which  the  bishop  lay,  with  a  chalice  and 
paten  of  beeswax  and  i>astoral  staiF  of  oak."  "  These  articles  are  now  in  the  Museum  at 
Edinburgh,  and  ix)rtions  of  this  tomb  are  in  the  room  over  the  south  chai)el." 

This  must  have  been  the  handsomest  piece  of  monumental  work  within  the  Cathedral ; 
but  instead  of  its  receiving  any  repair,  the  fragments,  as  they  became  detached,  were  carried 
away  and  utilised  for  other  purposes.  When  the  wall  round  the  Town  Hall  was  taken  down, 
in  1890,  large  i)ortions  of  this  tomb  were  found  embedded  in  the  masonry. 

Principal  Gordon  says  that  the  tomb  was  covered  to  its  full  length  with  a  plate  of  copper, 
and  adds  : — "  A  i)arty  of  soldiers  sent  by  Cromwell  to  Kirkwall,  in  order  to  be  a  check  upon 
the  inhabitants,  robbed  the  tomb  of  the  copper,  as  a  shred  of  the  whore  of  Babylon." 

At  this  tomb  it  was  customary  to  rejmy  borrowed  money  and  to  cancel  bonds.  William 
Sinclair  of  Warsetter  is  held  bound  to  pay  Harie  Aitken,  Commissary,  and  Hugh  Sinclair  of 
Garth,  5000  merks  "  upon  ane  day  betwixt  the  sun  rysing  and  down  going  thairof,  within  the 
Cathedral  Kirk  of  Orkney,  callit  St.  Magnus  Kirk,  in  Kirkwall,  at  the  buriall  place  of  umql. 
Bischop  Thomas  Tulloch."? 

The  whole  floor  of  the  choir  having  been,  at  the  reseating  of  the. church,  raised  to  the 
evel  of  the  top  of  the  altar  stei)s,  many  ancient  monuments  are  lost  to  view.  Perhaps  one  of 
the  most  interesting  of  these  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  north-east  pillar  of  the  choir.  It  is 
inscribed  : — "  Here  Lyes  Captain  Patricio,  of  the  Spanish  Armada,  who  was  wrecked  on  the 
Fair  Isle,  1588."  "Captain  Patricio  Antolinez  commanded  243  soldiers  on  board  El  Gran 
Grifon,  one  of  the  ships  of  the  Spanish  Armada.  This  vessel,  chartered  from  Rostock,  waa 
commanded  by  Juan  Gomez  de  Medina,  and  was  wrecked  on  the  Fair  Isle."  § 

*  Saga.        t  Br  Anderson.        :!:  Reg.,  18th  Aug.  1624.        §  Tudor,  p.  434. 


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CATHEDRAL   AS   BURIAL-PLACK.  51 

The  wreck  of  auch  a  large  vessel,  with  so  many  men  aboard,  was  a  sore  trial  to  the  people 
of  the  Fair  Isle  and  little  pleasure  to  the  poor  Spaniards. 

The  story  of  their  escape,  as  told  by  the  commander,  is  recorded  by  Melville,  minister  of 
Anstruther,  in  his  diary.  He  says  that  as  many  as  escaped  the  cruel  rocks  and  seas  had  for 
six  or  seven  weeks  suffered  great  hunger  and  cold,  till,  procuring  a  vessel  from  Oikuey,  they 
were  able  to  get  away.  That  they  called  at  Kirkwall  on  their  way  south,  this  siuij^le  inscrip- 
tion records,  and  it  furnishes  a  reason  for  their  putting  in,  but  undoubtedly  there  was  a  more 
pressing  cause.  They  required  to  lay  in  provisions  to  take  them  to  Calais,  which  then 
belonged  to  Spain.  From  their  condition  when  they  reached  Anstruther,  our  townspeople  had 
been  either  unable  or  unwilling  to  give  them  much  assistance.  Compelled  to  land  in  Fife,  the 
Laird  of  Anstruther  and  some  others  of  the  county  gentlemen  entertained  them  for  a  day  or 
two,  while  the  commander  rei)aired  to  Edinburgh  and  paid  his  respects  to  the  King. 

Melville  gives  the  names  of  the  principal  officers  as  "  Joan  Gomez  de  Medina,  Generalle 
of  twentie  houlkes,  Capitan  Patricio,  Capitan  de  Logoretto,  Capitan  de  Luffera,  Capitan 
Mauritio,  and  Seignom*  Serrano." 

Of  soldiers  and  sailors,  there  were  two  hundred  and  sixty,  chiefly  "  young  beardless  men.*' 

It  is  touching  to  notice  that,  while  these  poor  fellows  bore  their  own  misfortune  bravely 
enough,  believing  theirs  the  only  wreck  of  the  fleet,  when  they  learned  the  fate  of  their  com- 
ndes  all  round  the  coasts  of  Scotland,  Ireland,  and  England,  they  broke  down  entirely^ 
Medina  himself  giving  way  to  a  passionate  outburst  of  sobbing. 

The  Spaniards  proved  themselves  not  ungrateful  to  the  men  of  Fife,  for,  some  time 
afterwards,  Don  Gomez  showed  great  kindness  to  an  Anstruther  crew  whose  ship  was 
arrested  at  Calais.  He  took  the  men  to  his  house,  enquired  for  the  Laird  of  Anstruther  and 
the  minister,  and  **  sent  home  many  commendations." 

The  remarkable  style  of  knitting,  peculiar  to  the  Fair  Isle,  and  some  dark  Spanish, 
countenances,  contrasting  with  the  fair  Scandinavian  complexion  of  the  bulk  of  the  islanders,, 
are  regarded  as  memorials  of  this  shipwreck. 

Of  the  tombstones  still  open  to  inspection,  the  oldest  is  to  the  memory  of  William 
Henryson,  Treasurer  of  Orkney,  who  died  lOth  Dec.  1582.  His  wife's  initials,  "  M.B.,"  are 
also  on  the  stone. 

Another  sixteenth  century  stone  is  recessed  under  the  east  window  of  the  south  navp 
aisle—"  Heir  lyis  Ulliam  Maine,  Burgdis  in  Kirkwall,  1592  ;  His  spouse,  Mariorie  Thomsone,. 
1609  ;  and  nvne  of  their  children."  Probably  one  of  the  survivors  of  this  large  family  waa 
Thomas  Maine,  who  was  a  bailie  of  Kirkwall  from  1619  to  1638. 

Earl  Robert  Stewart  was  buried  in  the  Stewart's  aisle,  1590,  and  in  a  search  for  his  grave 
that  of  his  brother.  Lord  Adam  Stewart,  was  discovered.*  Earl  Patrick  was  buried  in 
Edinburgh,  whei-e  he  was  beheaded. 

In  October,  1648,  William  Douglas,  Earl  of  Morton,  was  buried  here,  and  his  son  Robert,, 
who  succeeded,  wished  to  erect  a  suitable  monument.  "  My  Lord  Morton,  his  brother,  Mr 
John  Douglas,  presented  a  desire  in  my  Lord's  name  unto  the  Session,  That  seeing  his. 
Lordship  had  ane  purpose  to  erect  ane  tomb  upon  the  corp  of  his  umquhile  father  in  the  best 
fashion  he  could  have  it :  Tharefore,  understanding  that  there  were  some  stones  of  marble  in 
the  floore  of  the  Kirk  of  Kirkwall,  commonly  called  St.  Magnus  kirk,  quhilk  would  be  very 
suitable  to  the  said  tomb ;  therefore  requested  the  favour  of  the  session  to  uplift  the  said 
stones  for  the  use  foresaid  :  Whereunto  the  session  condescended  with  this  provision,  that  the 
places  thereof  be  sufficiently  filled  up  agane  with  hewen  buriall  stones."  t    While  engaged  ia. 

*  Petrie's  Notes,  Antiq.  Museum.  t  S.  R.,  22Qd  Apnl  1649. 


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52 


KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


raising  troops  for  Montrose,  Robert,  Earl  of  Morton,  died  12th  Nov.  1649,  and  the  Eai-1  of 
Kinnoul  a  few  days  later,  and  the  remains  of  both  must  have  been  laid  in  the  Cathedral. 

In  1676,  Bishop  Honyman  was  buried  beside  the  tomb  of  Bishop  TuUoch. 

Bishop  Mackenzie  "  was  interred  in  S.  Magnus  Kirk  in  Kirkwall  within  the  commone 
court  place  of  the  same,  commonly  called  the  counsel  house,  which  no  person  hath  been 
interred  hitherto."  * 

As  might  be  expected,  the  choir  was  reserved  : — "  My  Lord  Bishop  and  session  discharges 
the  beddal,  or  under  officers,  to  breik  any  ground  within  the  choir  for  burial  quher  the  peiple 
sits  and  hiers  the  word  without  special  libertie  asked  and  given  from  my  Lord  Bishop, 
minister,  and  elders,  and,  that  nane  be  permitted  to  be  buried  within  the  said  quire  except  the 
persone  related  to  the  dead,  pay  somequhat 
more  considerable  than  in  any  other  place  of 
the  church."  t 

In  Low's  account  of  Kirkwall,  1774,  the 
population  of  town  and  parish  is  given  as  1500 
souls,  and  one  hundred  years  earlier  it  was,  of 
course,  much  smaller.  Thus,  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  the  nave  of  the  Cathedral  served  as 
the  cemetery  for  all  who  would  pay  the  neces- 
sary fees. 

Heads  of  families  claimed  for  themselves 
and  their  children  sjmces  in  the  nave  which  had 
been  the  burial-places  of  their  ancestors. 

The  Session  had  before  them,  25th  May 
1670,  a  claim  put  in  by  David  Craigie  of  Over- 
sanday  for  the  space  between  the  third  and 
fourth  pillars  on  the  south  side,  reckoning  west- 
wards from  the  transept,  "in  resj)ect  that  his 
brother,  the  late  Hugh  Craigie  of  Gairsay,  had 
left  in  legacy  to  the  Kirk  the  sum  of  five  pound 
sterling,  and  that  his  father,  mother,  and  fore- 
said brother  all  lie  buried  there." 

The  claim  was  sustained  on  condition  that 
he  would  "hold  up  the  glasse  window  above 
the  said  burial-place." 

In  1721,  John  Covingtrie  of  Newark,  then 
"  Lord  "  Provost  of  Kirkwall,  claimed  the  space 
"betwixt  the  second  and  the    third    pillars, 
reckoning  downwards  from  the  middle  of  the  church,  on  the  second  pillar  whereof  stands  his 
father's  monument." 

"The  Session,  having  viewed  the  ground,"  granted  him  the  space  for  which  he  asked, 
including  the  recessed  arch  in  the  south  wall. 

Concerning  this  arch,  Sir  Henry  Dryden  remarks  : — "  This  had  over  it  an  effigy,  or  at 
least  a  carved  slab.  The  arch  is  segmental,  with  angular  impost  and  good  mouldings,  and  is 
surmounted  by  a  pediment.  It  is  about  the  date  of  1300.  Close  over  the  arch  is  a  shield 
which  appears  to  bear  3  guttes  reversed  (points  downward)  within  a  bordure  of  pearls.  Under 
it  is  one  line  of  inscription  obliterated.  To  whom  this  was  erected  is  uncertain."  Sir  Henry, 
♦  T.  B.,  17th  Feb.  1688.  t  S.  IL,  19th  Oct.  1670. 


Tombstone  Erected  by  John  Covingtrie. 


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Main  Door,  West  Front  of  Cathedral. 


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54  IvlUKWALL.IN   Ttlfi  OH^NISYS. 

however,  regards  it  as  probable  that  this  tomb  was  prepared  for  some  member  of  the 
Stratherne  family. 

The  obliteration  referred  to  was  likely  to  be  the  work  of  one  of  the  Session's  lessees  whose 
circumstances  rendered  the  inscription  inappropriate. 

On  the  floor,  between  two  pillars  on  the  south  side,  are  two  elaborately  carved  stones, 
traditionally  held  to  mark  the  last  resting  places  of  a  bishop  and  an  earl. 

On  the  other  side,  we  have  a  relic  of  Robert  Stewart's  rebellion.  **  Heir  Lyia  William 
Irving  of  Sebay,  Schot  out  of  the  castil,  in  his  Majesty's  S.V.,  1614."  Though  in  his  Mtgesty's 
service,  his  loyalty  was  more  than  doubtful,  and  Caithness  regarded  his  death  as  a  just 
judgment. 

Of  the  seventeenth  century  names  inscribed  on  wall  and  floor,  in  many  instances  nothing 
now  is  known  but  what  is  recorded  upon  the  stone.  Baikie  of  Burness,  Drummond  of 
Baloughie,  Richan  of  Linklater,  Louttit  of  Lyking,  Covingtrie  of  Newark,  Smith  of  Braco, 
Blair  of  Little  Blair,  Young  of  Castleyards,  Traills  of  many  places,  Kaa,  Prince,  Cuthl)ert, 
Winchester,  and  Forbes  were,  however,  men  of  mark  and  civic  power  in  their  day  and 
generation. 

After  the  fashion  of  the  time,  we  have  a  few  quaint  rhymes.  Under  the  names  of 
Drummond  of  Baloughie  and  some  of  his  grandchildren,  we  have  : — 

"  They  did  lye  down  with  sighs  and  cries, 
To  joy  and  Bliss  they  shall  arise." 

On  the  stone  of  Thomas  Taylor,  merchant,  burgess  of  Kirkwall,  we  find  : — 

*•  Corps  rest  in  peace  into  this  womiy  clay, 
Till  Christ  shall  raise  the  to  a  glorious  day. " 

On  JiM^ed  Black's  tombstone  we  read  : — 

"  Corps  rest  in  peace  withiu  this  ground 
Until  Archangel's  trumpet  sound  ; 
Soul  joy  above  till  thy  Creator's  micht 
Both  reunite  to  reign  with  saints  in  licht." 

"  John  Kaa,  somtym  Baily  of  Kirkwall,  was  married  with  Agnes  Louttit,"  and  the  widow 
records  that 

*'  Affnes  9  children  boor  unto  her  mate, 
6  died  before  their  sir  by  cruel  fate." 

After  giving  the  names  of  the  six,  the  epitaph  states  that  "  James,  George,  and  their  dear 
sister  Margaret  survived  to  comfort  their  mother."  And  it  is  pleasant  to  record,  even  after 
two  hundred  years,  that  this  "dear  sister"  made  a  good  marriage.  "Thursday,  David 
Covingtrie,  mercht.,  was  married  to  Margaret  Kaa,  onlie  daughter  to  umql.  John  Kaa  and 
Anna  Louttit,  Spouse."  * 

On  a  square  board,  hung  cornerwise  to  represent  an  escutcheon,  along  with  some  queer 
devices  and  scriptural  texts,  we  have  : — "  Below  doth  lye  if  ye  wold  Trye,  come  read  upon  this 
brod.  The  corps  of  on  Robert  Nicolsone,  whose  soul's  alive  with  God.  He  being  70  years  of 
age,  ended  this  mortal  life.  And  50  of  that  he  was  married  to  Jean  Davidson,  his  wife. 
Betwixt  them  2,  12  children  had,  whereof  5  left  behind.  The  other  7  with  him's  in  Heaven, 
whose  joy  shall  never  end." 

This  quaint  piece  of  work  may  almost  with  certainty  be  regarded  as  an  act  of  filial  duty 
on  the  part  of  James  Nicolson,  the  painter  of  the  "  horologe  brod  and  of  the  two  sundials 
furnished  by  James  Adamson. 

♦  T.  B.,  Oct.  10,  1G80. 


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No  work  of  human  hands  has  a  more  monotonous  existence  than  a  tombstone.  There  it 
stands  recording  the  name  of  the  occupant  of  the  grave  below.  The  monuments  of  contem- 
poraries and  successors  speedily  crowd  around  it,  and  at  length  a  generation  arises  to  whom 
the  epitaph  conveys  no  information.  The  memory  of  the  man  has  gone,  and  only  his  name 
remains.  At  last  the  old  thing  decays  into  illegibility  and  crumbles  away  or  is  removed. 
This  !b  the  natural  history  of  tombstones. 

But  one  stone  on  the  north  wall,  eighth  from  the  west  door,  has  had  a  little  experience 
out  of  the  usual  graveyard  course.    James  Adamson,  mason,  petitioned  for  permission  "  to  sett 


North  Aisle,  Nave,  St.  Magnus  Cathedral. 

Up  ane  hewen  stone  at  the  back  of  the  pillar  where  his  wife  and  her  father  lyes  interred.  But 
my  Lord  Bishop  and  Session  would  not  permit  him  to  sett  it  up  at  the  pillar,  lest  the  pillar 
sould  be  wronged  thereby,  but  permitted  him  if  he  pleased  to  sett  it  up  at  the  north  wall, 
which  was  opposite  to  the  said  pillar."*  Th«re  it  was  set  up,  and  in  due  season  James 
himself  was  laid  below  it.  After  it  had  stood  for  nineteen  years,  Patrick,  the  son  of  the  man 
who  carved  it,  removed  the  stone  and  sold  it,  "  having  hewen  off  the  letters  off  it."  This 
having  come  to  the  ears  of  the  Session,  the  stone  "  was  appointed  to  be  arrested  and  Adamson 
to  be  charged  against  next  day,"  when  he  was  ordered  to  put  up  "  the  same  stone  and  no  other, 
and  to  have  his  father's  and  grandfather's  names  engraven  on  it."  Patrick,  seeing  no  help  for 
it,  restored  the  stone,  but  in  the  inscription  which  he  carved  he  takes  credit  to  himself  for  the 
filial  act  of  putting  up  a  monument  to  his  father's  memory.    A  son's  attempt  to  raise  money 

♦  Oct.  1670. 


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66  kirkwaijl  in. the  Orkneys. 

by  selling  his  father's  tombstone  is  probably  unique  in  the  history  of  sepulture  and  of  trade. 
And  Patrick's  conduct  cannot  be  excused  on  the  ground  of  youthful  thoughtlessness,  for  at 
this  time  he  had  been  five  years  married  to  Ursulla,  one  of  the  twelve  children  of  Robert 
Nicolson,  immortalised  on  the  above-mentioned  ^  brod." 

The  third  stone  east  from  this  marks  the  grave  of  the  amiable  David  Forbes,  Notary 
Public,  Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall,  and  Treasurer  of  St.  Magnus  Church,  of  which  he  was  for 
many  years  an  elder.  Among  the  papers  preserved  in  the  Sheriff  Court  and  Town  Hall  are 
many  documents  in  the  beautiful  quaint  old  penmanship  of  this  man.  A  determined  foe  to 
anything  like  jobbery  in  the  handling  of  public  business,  he  was  yet  a  singularly  retiring  man, 
only  coming  to  the  front  at  the  call  of  duty. 

Under  date  1st  Dee.  1684,  is  entered  in  the  Session  records — "  Whilk  day,  David  Forbes 
being  dead,  my  Lord  Bishop,  Minister,  and  Session  gave  a  large  testimonie  of  his  faithfulness 
and  diligence  during  the  tyine  of  his  service  as  Treasurer,  and  ordains  that  David  Forbes  have 
his  burial  free,  in  respect  of  his  faithfulness  to  the  church." 

On  this  north  wall  there  is  a  marble  tablet  to  the  memory  of  George  Oiiumd,  of  the  Fair 
Isle.  It  is  of  comparatively  recent  date,  1813.  Mr  Omond,  grandson  of  Mr  Reid,  master  of 
Kirkwall  Grammar  School,  and  afterwards  missionary  in  the  Fair  Isle,  established  himself  in 
business  in  Kirkwall,  and  was  a  very  successful  merchant.  His  son,  Robert,  was  for  a  time 
President  of  the  College  of  Surgeons,  Edinburgh,  and  John,  Doctor  of  Divinity,  was  Free 
Church  minister  of  Mcmzie.  Some  of  his  grandsons  have  distinguished  themselves  in  science 
and  others  in  literature. 

Another  mural  ttiblet  commemorates  the  services  of  Malcolm  Laing.  the  historian. 

On  the  floor  is  a  monument  to  the  memory  of  William  Balfour  Baikie,  African  explorer, 
son  of  Captain  Baikie,  RN.,  banker,  Kirkwall.  "The  monument  is  in  the  style  of  the 
thirteenth  century,  with  three  recessed  arches  in  each  side  and  one  in  each  end.  They  contain 
shields  of  arms  of  England,  Scotland,  Orkney,  Baikie,  Traill,  and  Hutton.  The  main  portion 
of  the  tomb  is  of  Orkney  freestone  of  two  colours,  and  the  detached  shafts  are  of  Shetland 
serpentine.  The  work  was  executed  by  Orkney  sculptors  from  drawings  by  a  Shetland 
architect."  * 

The  epitaph,  composed  by  his  friend,  the  late  Colonel  David  Balfour  of  Balfour  and 
Trenabie,  is  a  biography  in  miniature  :—"  William  Balfour  Baikie,  M.D.,  R.N.,  F.R.S.,  F.S.A. 
Scot.,  born  at  Kirkwall,  27th  August  1825.  The  Explorer  of  the  Niger  and  Tchadda,  the 
Translator  of  the  Bible  into  the  languages  of  Central  Africa,  and  the  pioneer  of  Education, 
Commerce,  and  Progress  among  its  many  nations.  He  devoted  life,  means,  and  talents  to 
make  the  heathen  savage  and  slave  a  free  and  Christian  man.  For  Africa  he  opened  up  new 
paths  to  light,  wealth,  and  liberty  ;  for  Europe  new  fields  of  science,  enterprise,  and  benefi- 
cence ;  he  won  for  Britain  new  honour  and  influence,  and  for  himself  the  respect,  affections^ 
and  confidence  of  the  chiefs  and  people.  He  earned  the  love  of  those  whom  he  commanded 
and  the  thanks  of  those  whom  he  served,  and  left  to  all  a  brave  example  of  humanity, 
perseverance,  and  self-.sacrifice  to  duty.  But  the  climate  from  which  his  care,  skill,  and  kind- 
ness shielded  so  many,  was  fatal  to  himself,  and  when  relieved  at  last,  though  too  late,  he  died 
at  Sierra  Leone,  12th  December  1864." 

Across  the  nave  from  Dr  Baikie's  cenotaph  is  a  monument  to  another  Orcadian  explorer, 
DrRae. 

John  Rae  was  born  at  the  Hall  of  Clestrain,  in  Orphir,  30th  Septeniber  1813.  At  the  age 
of  sixteen  he -entered  the  University  as  a  student  of  medicine.  After  a  successful  curriculum, 
he  joined  the  fludson  Bay  Company's  service.    For  ten  years  he  had  had  the  charge  of  Moose 

*  Dryden,  p.  65. 


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Factory,  when,  in  1845,  he  was  sent  at  the  lie.id  of  an  expedition  to  explore  the  Arctic  coast 
and  connect  the  work  of  Sir  E.  Perry  with  that  of  Sir  John  R«)ss.  The  survey  embraced  seven 
hundred  miles  of  coast  line,  and  in  two  years  it  was  successfully  completed.  While  engaged 
in  another  coast  survey,  he  came  upon  a  party  of  Esquimaux,  from  whom  he  obtained  informa- 
tion and  relics  which  showed  that  the  last  of  the  Franklin  expedition  had  perished  of  cold  and 
hunger.  On  his  return  to  England  he  found  that  he  had  unwittingly  earned  £10,IK)0,  which 
had  been  offered  by  Government  for  definite  proof  of  the  fate  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his 
men.  A  later  explorer  got  from  the  Esquimaux  the  story  of  the  last  of  that  expedition.  "  We 
saw  a  band  of  weary  white  men  travelling  southward,  and  as  they  walked  they  fell,  and  where 
they  fell  they  lay,  and  where  they  lay  they  died." 

Rae  was  admirably  adapted  for  the  rough  work  in  which  he  delighted.  Possessed  of  a 
splended  physique,  indomitable  courage,  and  thorough  self-reliance,  he  Wiis  able  to  inspire 
those  under  his  command  with  the  confidence  that  their  labours  and  hardships  were  certain  to 
end  in  success.  He  traversed  1500  miles  of  previously  unexplored  country,  often  dragging  his 
own  sledge  and  supporting  himself  and  his  party  by  his  gun.  He  died  in  London  on  the  22nd 
July  1893,  and,  in  deference  to  his  own  wish,  was  buried  in  St.  Magnus  Churchyard. 


Doorway,  North  Aisle,  St.  Magnus  Cathedral. 


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CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Bishops  Palace. 

^N£  of  the  two  castles  to  which  Buchanan  refers  in  his  description  of  Kirkwall  is  the 
Bishop's  Palace. 

Of  the  Bishops  of  Orkney  before  the  See  was  removed  to  Kirkwall,  with  the 
-exception  of  William  the  Old,  the  Sagas  make  no  mention. 

Earl  Paul,  son  of  Earl  Thorfinn,  sent  to  Lanfranc,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  a  cleric 
whom  he  wished  to  be  consecrated  bishop.  This  was  Bishop  Ralph,  concerning  whom 
Lanfranc's  successor,  Anselm,  **  wrote  to  Earl  Hakon,  Paul's  son,  exhorting  him  and  his  people 
to  obey  the  bishop  whom  now  by  the  grace  of  God  they  had."  * 

Bishop  Roger  was  consecrated  by  the  Archbishop  of  York.  Then  came  another  Ralph, 
■and  in  1102  William  the  Old.  Where  those  early  bishops  resided  is  not  shown,  but  necessarily 
they  had  a  residence  at  Birsay.  Egilshay,  too,  was  favoured  by  some  of  them  as  a  place  of 
abode.  Here  William  the  Old  received  Bishop  Jon  of  Athol,  and  here  also  there  came  to  the 
«ame  venerable  prelate  his  kinsman,  Swein  of  Gairsay,  a  manslayer,  seeking  sanctuary. 

But  with  the  building  of  the  Cathedral  arose  the  need  of  an  Episcopal  Palace  in  Kirkwall. 

Who  the  builder  of  the  original  palace  was  cannot  now  be  ascertained.  Probably  William 
the  Old,  on  the  removal  of  the  See  from  Birsay  to  Kirkwall,  prepared,  near  his  church,  a 
•dwelling  for  himself  and  his  successors.  This  venerable  priest,  after  the  consecration  of  the 
Cathedral,  1152,  accompanied  Earl  Rognwald  to  the  Holy  Land,  and  we  may  imagine,  if  we 
•choose,  that  his  house  was  erected  in  his  absence,  and  that  when  his  earthly  pilgrimage  was 
over,  1168,  it  was  there  that  he  died. 

Of  the  next  Bishop,  William  II.,  little  is  known  but  the  date  of  his  death,  1188. 

"  When  Bishop  William  the  Second  was  dead,  Bjarni,  the  son  of  Kolbein  Hruga,  was 
made  bishop  after  him.  He  was  a  very  great  man,  and  a  dear  friend  of  Earl  Harald."  f 
Bjorn  or  Bjarni,  the  Skald,  was  a  native  Orcadian,  born  probably  in  the  island  of  Wyre.  His 
father's  name  is  still  preserved,  if  in  a  mutilated  form,  in  the  ruins  of  the  stronghold  which  he 
built  in  that  island,  *'  Cobbie  Row's  Castle." 

This  prelate  wrote,  among  other  poems,  the  "  Lay  of  the  Jomsburg  Vikings,"  hence  his 
title,  the  Skald. 

Palnatoki,  a  celebrated  sea  rover,  had  established  himself,  somewhere  between  941  and  991 
A.D.,  in  a  stronghold  named  Jomsburg,  on  the  southern  shore  of  the  Baltic.  The  laws  under 
which  he  ruled  his  followers  were  very  strict.  No  one  was  admitted  into  the  community 
under  fifteen  or  over  fifty  years  of  age.  Every  member  must  have  shown  that  he  did  not  fear 
to  face  two  men  equally  as  strong  and  well  armed  as  himself.  No  one  without  their  leader's 
permission  could  be  absent  more  than  one  day  from  Jomsburg,  into  which  no  females  were  to 
be  admitted. 

•  Anderson,  Intro.,  72.  t  Saga,  193. 


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THE  bishop's   palace.  5^ 

Palnatoki's  band  became  famous,  and  it  was  reckoned  an  honour  to  belong  to  it.  But,  in 
a  rash  expedition  against  Norway,  under  Palnatoki's  successor,  the  Jomsburg  vikings  were  cut 
to  pieces.  Thirty  of  them  were  taken  prisoners  by  Earl  Hakon,  and  the  manner  in  which  they 
faced  death  might  well  inspire  our  poet  priest. 

*'  The  prisoners,  being  seated  on  a  log  of  wood,  with  their  legs  bound  together  by  a  rope, 
withies  or  osier  twigs  were  twisted  in  their  hair.  A  slave  was  then  placed  behind  each  to  keep 
his  head  steady  by  holding  fast  the  withies  twisted  into  a  band  for  that  purpose.  Th& 
executioner  was  no  less  a  personage  than  Thorkell  Leire,  one  of  the  most  renowned  Norwegian 
chieftains. 

**  Thorkell  began  his  sanguinary  ta.sk  by  striking  off  the  head  of  him  who  sat  outmost  on 
the  log.  After  he  had  beheaded  the  next  two,  he  asked  the  prisoners  what  they  thought  of  death. 

"  *  What  happened  to  my  father,'  replied  one,  *  must  happen  to  me.    He  died,  so  must  I.' 

"  Another  said  that  he  remembered  too  well  the  laws  of  Jomsburg  to  fear  dying  ;  a  third 
declared  that  a  glorious  death  was  ever  welcome  to  him,  and  that  such  a  death  was  preferable 
to  an  infamous  life  like  Thorkell's. 

"  *  I  only  beg  of  thee,'  said  a  fourth,  *  to  be  quick  over  thy  work  ;  for  thou  must  know  that 
it  is  a  question  often  discussed  at  Jomsburg,  whether  or  not  a  man  feels  anything  after  losing- 
his  head.  I  will  therefore  grasp  this  knife  in  my  hand  ;  if,  after  my  head  is  cut  off,  I  throw  it 
at  thee,  it  will  show  that  I  still  retain  some  feeling ;  if  I  let  it  fall,  it  will  prove  just  the 
contrary.  Strike,  therefore,  and  decide  the  question  without  further  delay.'  Thorkell  stnick 
off  the  man's  head  with  a  stroke  of  his  battle-axe,  but  the  knife  instantly  fell  to  the  ground. 

"  *  Strike  the  blow  in  my  face,'  said  the  next ;  *  I  will  sit  still  without  flinching,  and  take 
notice  whether  I  even  wink  my  eyes  ;  for  we  Jomsburg  people  know  how  to  meet  the  stroke  of 
death  without  betraying  an  emotion.' 

"  He  kept  his  promise  and  received  the  blow  without  showing  the  least  sign  of  fear,  or  sa 
much  as  winking  with  his  eyes. 

"  Sigurd,  the  son  of  Bui  the  Thick,  a  fine  young  man  in  the  flower  of  his  age,  with  long 
fair  hair,  as  fine  as  silk,  flowing  in  ringlets  over  his  shoulders,  said  in  answer  to  ThorkelVa 
question—-*  I  fear  not  death  since  I  have  fulfilled  the  greatest  duty  of  my  life,  but  I  must  pray 
thee  not  to  let  my  hair  be  touched  by  a  slave  or  stained  with  my  blood.' 

**  One  of  Hakon's  followers  then  stepped  forward  and  held  his  hair  instead  of  the  slave,, 
but  when  Thorkell  struck  the  blow,  Sigurd  twitched  his  head  forward  so  strongly  that  the 
warrior  who  was  holding  his  hair  had  both  his  hands  cut  off." 

This  practical  joke  was  so  relished  by  Eirick,  the  son  of  Earl  Hakon,  that  he  secured  from 
his  father  the  lives  of  the  remaining  twelve  Jomsburgers,  one  of  whom  was  a  Welshman.* 

Bishop  Bjarni's  relish  for  such  themes  showed  the  churchman  a  true  son  of  Kolbein  the 
viking. 

It  was  Bjami  who  in  all  probability  built  the  quaint  little  church  in  Wyre  near  his 
father's  castle. 

When  Earl  Harald  was  summoned  to  Norway  to  answer  on  a  charge  of  conniving  at 
treasonable  practices,  the  Bishop  accompanied  his  friend  to  the  court  of  King  Sverir. 

It  was  in  his  days  that  **  God  manifested  Rognwald's  merits  by  many  and  great  miracles," 
and,  with  consent  of  the  Pope,  he  had  the  saint's  "  holy  remains  exhumed." 

The  Saga  states  regarding  Bjami  that  "he  was  well  mannered  as  a  youth,"  and  th& 
biographical  facts  which  are  preserved  would  show  him  to  have  been  a  courteous  and  cultured 
gentleman,  beloved  by  the  Earl,  respected  by  the  King,  and  trusted  by  the  Pope.  He  was 
wealthy^  too,  and  had  possessions  both  in  Orkney  and  in  Norway.    And  he  used  his  wealth. 

♦  Mallet,  North.  Ant. 


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60  KIUKWALL   IN    THE   ORKNEYS. 

towards  completing  the  Ciithedral,  for,  accorcUng  to  Sir  Henry  Dryden,  this  is  the  period  of 
the  "Second  Style"  in  St.  Magnus.  "  At  this  time  the  two  chapels  were  built,  and  probably 
the  transepts  were  roofed." 

Bishop  Bjarni  died,  l2J23,  and  Bishop  Jofreyr  was  consecrated.  For  years  this  prelate  was 
never  outside  the  walls  of  his  palace,  having  been  such  an  invalid  as  to  necessitate  the 
appointment  of  a  "  wise  and  prndeiit  helper"  to  perfonn  the  duties  of  the  episcopate.  On  his 
death,  1247,  he  was  succeeded  by  Hervi,  who  was  consecrated  and  died  within  a  year. 

Bishop  Henry  I.,  who  followed,  1248-1269,  was  a  man  of  mark. 

Haco  of  Norway,  on  his  expedition  against  Scotland,  1263,  put  into  Elwick  Bay.  The 
King,  leaving  his  fleet,  became  the  guest  of  the  Bishop  in  his  Place  of  the  Yards,  and 
persuaded  the  prelate  to  accompany  him  on  his  ill-starred  voyage. 

"  Ere  he  left  these  friendly  islands  there  came  a  portent  that  might  have  disturbed  a  less 
resolute  leader.  At  Ronaldsvo  there  fell  a  great  darkness,  so  that  there  was  only  a  thin  bright 
ring  instead  of  the  round  sun.  It  has  been  calculated  by  Sir  D.  Brewster  that  there  was  an 
eclipse  of  the  sun,  which,  at  twenty-four  minutes  past  one  on  the  oth  of  August,  was  annular 
at  Konaldsvo."  * 

When  the  Norwegian  Armada  reached  the  Clyde  it  was  seen  to  be  so  much  stronger  than 
any  force  which  the  Scots  could  at  once  raise  to  meet  it,  that  King  Alexander  III.  professed 
to  desire  a  peace.  In  response  to  his  overtures,  five  commissioners,  of  whom  Henry,  Bishop  of 
Orkney,  was  one,  were  sent  to  the  Scottish  Court.  They  were  honourably  received  and 
dismissed  with  a  promise  that  terms  would  shortly  be  sent.  With  the  Scots  time  was 
everything,  for  the  autumnal  gales  were  approaching  ;  but  neither  Haco  nor  his  ambassadors 
penetrated  the  Fabian  policy  of  Alexander.  Meanwhile  the  Norsemen  gratified  their  instincts 
and  wasted  their  strength  in  reckless  piratical  adventures.  Bute  was  sadly  wasted.  "  The 
habitations  of  men,  the  dwellings  of  the  wretched,  flamed.  Fire,  the  devourer  of  balls,  glowed 
in  their  granaries." 

By  and  by  a  series  of  storms,  so  disastrous  that  the  Norwegians  attributed  them  to  magic, 
wrecked  Haco  s  fleet.  "  Now  our  deep  enquiring  sovereign  encountered  the  horrid  powers  of 
enchantment.  The  troubled  flood  tore  many  fair  galleys  from  their  moorings  and  swept  them 
anchorless  before  the  waves.  The  roaring  billows  and  stormy  blast  threw  shielded  companies 
of  our  adventurous  nation  on  the  Scottish  strand." 

This  gale,  so  fateful  to  two  countries,  was  on  the  second  of  October  1263. 

To  protect  these  "shielded  companies"  from  the  men  of  Kyle,  Haco,  under  great  di.s- 
ad vantage,  was  compelled  to  land  a  small  force. 

The  struggle  was  fierce  while  it  lasted — on  one  side  a  handful  of  men  whose  occupation 
and  delight  was  war,  and  on  the  other  an  undisciplined,  badly  armed,  but  constantly 
increasing  crowd  of  determined  peasantry,  with  homes  to  defend  and  wrongs  to  avenge. 

This  is  known  in  Scottish  history  as  the  battle  of  Largs.  But  **  we  hear  in  the  earlier 
accounts  of  no  commander  to  the  Scots  force,  nor  is  it  recorded  that  any  of  the  great 
feudatories  of  the  crown  were  present.  This  silence  is  made  more  emphatic  by  the  eminence 
given  to  the  rank  and  splendid  equipment  of  Sir  Pierce  Curry,  the  only  man  whose  name  can 
be  identified  on  the  Scots  side."  t 

Buchanan  says  that  Haco  "  was  defeated  by  Alexander  Stewart,  the  grandfather  of  the 
first  of  that  name  who  sat  on  the  Scottish  throne." 

Torfaeus  tells  that  not  more  than  eight  hundred  Norwegians  were  landed,  who  were 
instantly  cut  to  pieces,  and  that  Haco  from  on  board  his  fleet  beheld  the  disaster,  but  was 
prevented  by  the  tempestuous  weather  from  sending  any  assistance. 

•  Burton,  ii.  32.  +  Biu-ton,  ii.  35. 


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THE   bishop's   palace.  61 

Nevertheless,  the  affair  at  Largs  was  as  fertile  in  results  to  the  nations  engaged  as  if  it 
had  been  a  pitched  battle  between  two  great  armies. 

With  the  shattered  remains  of  his  fleet,  Haco  sailed  northward,  death  still  following.  A 
galley  with  all  her  crew  was  engulfed  in  the  Pentland  "  Swelchie."  Tlie  King  and  Bishop 
Henry  landed  on  South  Ronaldshay  and  crossed  to  Scapa,  while  what  was  left  of  the  fleet 
found  shelter  in  Houton  Harbour.  Having  resolved  to  spend  the  winter  in  Kirkwall,  Haco 
took  for  himself  the  upper  storey  of  the  Bishop's  Palace.  But  his  health  had  given  way  with 
his  fortunes.  While  a  measure  of  strength  remained,  he  interested  himself  in  the  affairs  of 
state  and. in  the  offices  of  religion,  but,  when  he  was  fairly  stricken  down,  tho  lesvsons  of  the 
priests  and  the  stirring  adventures  of  his  own  piratical  ancestors  divided  the  attention  of  the 
dying  warrior,  and  the  last  sound  of  which  he  was  conscious  was  the  reading  of  the  chronicle 
of  King  Sverir.  * 

For  a  short  time  the  body  lay  in  state  in  the  Palace,  after  which  it  was  removed  to  the 
Cathedral,  where  it  was  guarded  during  the  winter  by  the  nobles  of  the  suite  watching  two  by 
two  in  turn.  In  spring  the  remains  were  removed  to  Bergen  and  committed  to  the  filial  care 
of  King  Magnus. 

Bishop  Henry  survived  his  royal  friend  for  sijc  years,  and  when  he  went  to  his  final 
resting-place  in  the  Cathedral  he  was  succeeded  in  the  Palace,  1270,  by  Peter. 

This  Bishop  was  one  of  the  Commissioners  appointed  by  King  Eric  to  negotiate  a 
marriage  between  him  and  Margaret,  daughter  of  Alexander  III.  of  Scotland. 

Of  Dolgfinnr,  who  followed,  1296,  little  is  known  but  the  name,  though  he  occupied  the 
Palace  for  over  twenty  years.  In  his  time  Margaret,  the  Maid  of  Norway,  King  Alexander's 
grandchild,  died  on  her  way  to  Scotland  to  assume  the  Cr(»wn,  and  it  is  ])robable  that 
Dolgfinnr  accompanied  her  remains  to  Bergen.  The  disturbances  in  Scotland  which  followed 
upon  this  nntimely  death  may  have  attracted  the  attention  of  the  historians  of  Norway  to  the 
neglect  of  the  earldom  and  bishopric  of  Orkney.  This  was  the  time  that  witnessed  the  heroic 
struggle,  the  base  betrayal,  and  the  shameful  death  of  the  patriot  Wallace,  and  which  saw  the 
gallant  Bruce  a  fugitive  in  the  wilds  of  the  country  which  yet  should  hail  him  conqueror  and 
king. 

Of  the  public  and  private  life  of  William  III.,  who  succeeded  Dolgfinnr,  1310,  .somewhat 
more  is  known.  In  1312,  alcmg  with  Earl  Magnus,  the  last  of  the  Angus  line,  we  find  him  at 
Inverness  renewing  the  treaty  of  Perth,  which  had  been  concluded  between  Alexander  III. 
and  Magnus  Hakonson,  1266. 

Some  years  after  his  accession,  Bishop  William  got  into  trouble  with  his  metropolitan,  the 
Archbishop  of  Trondheim,  on  account  of  his  reckless  indulgence  in  certain  uncanonical 
practices.  A  visitation  of  the  diocese  was  appointed  to  inquire  into  his  doings.  It  was  found 
that  as  to  his  amours  no  guilt  could  be  brought  home  to  him  since  his  elevation  to  the 
bishopric.  It  was  shown,  however,  that  he  took  more  pleasure  in  such  sport  as  Orkney 
afforded  than  consisted  with  the  dignity  of  his  episcopal  position,  and  this  to  the  neglect  of  the 
spiritual  wants  of  his  people.  Thus,  heretics  practised  idolatry  and  witchcraft  in  the  very 
shadow  of  his  Cathedral.  Worse  than  this,  his  extravagant  hcmse-keeping  caused  him  to 
appropriate  to  his  own  uses  teinds  which  should  have  gone  to  Trondheim,  and  Peter's  Pence, 
which  were  much  wanted  at  Rome.  Nor  was  he  sufficiently  strict  in  causing  the  people  of 
Shetland  to  forward  their  annual  dues  to  the  shrine  of  St.  Sunniva  at  Bergen. 

When  the  Archbishop  appointed  a  collector  to  look  after  his  i)ecuniary  interests,  the 
collector  found  a  lodging  in  the  Palace  dungeon. 

From  the  fact  that  the  last  mention  of  him  to  be  found  is  1328,  and  the  first  mention  of 

*  Torfaeus. 


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62  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

his  successor  is  1369,  it  may  be  inferred  that,  though  not  deposed,  he  was  suspended,  and  the 
management  of  the  See  given  to  another.  But,  though  Archbishop  Olaus  regarded  wilful 
William  as  but  a  prodigal  son  of  the  church,  the  bisho[>'s  character  and  habits  were  of  a  kind 
to  make  him  highly  popular  iimong  the  islanders. 

During  this  episcopate  the  independence  of  Scotland  was  finally  established,  and  Bruce  is 
said  to  have  dedicated  to  St.  Magnus  Cathedral  the  sum  of  five  pounds  yearly,  to  be  paid  out 
of  the  customs  of  the  port  of  Aberdeen. 

The  reason  for  this  is  given  by  Wallace  : — "  The  day  wherein  King  Robert  Bruce  gave 
that  great  and  memorable  defeat  to  the  English  at  Bannockburn^  there  was  seen  rideing 
through  Aberdeen  a  horseman  in  shining  armour,  who  told  them  of  the  Victory,  and  thereafter 
was  seen  rideing  on  his  horse  over  Pighlland  firOi :  whereupon  it  was  concluded  (sayeth 
Boetius,  who  tells  this  story)  that  it  was  Saint  Magnus,  And  upon  that  account  the  King, 
after  the  victory,  ordered  that  for  ever  after,  five  pound  Sterling  should  be  paid  to  St.  Magnus 
Kirk  in  Kirkwall  out  of  the  customs  payable  by  the  Town  of  Aberdeen" 

The  same  writer  quotes  a  receipt  showing  that  this  tax  was  paid  as  late  as  1593. 

Bishop  WHliam  IV.  got  the  See  somewhere  about  1369.  It  may  be  remembered  that 
when,  in  1379,  Henry  St.  Clair  was  invested  in  the  earldom  of  Orkney,  Haco  of  Norway  made 
It  a  condition  that  he  should  **  enter  into  no  agreement  with  the  bishop."  As  Bishop  William 
had  been  in  oflSce  long  before  Earl  Henry  came  to  Kirkwall,  it  is  probable  that  the  church- 
man had  made  himself  obnoxious  to  the  King.  The  next  notice  of  the  prelate  is  in  1382. 
"  Then  was  heard  the  mournful  tidings  that  Bishop  William  was  slain  in  the  Orkneys." 

Another  William,  a  Henry,  a  John,  and  a  Patrick  successively  occupied  the  Palace,  and 
joined  their  silent  predecessors  in  the  Cathedral,  leaving  behind  no  memory  of  their  work. 

After  Bishop  Patrick's  death,  Bishop  Thomas  Tulloch 
was  presented  to  the  See.  I 

Eric  the  Pomeranian,  who  now  ruled  in  Denmark,  im-     ^  ^i   m^^ 
patient  of  the  neglect  of  the  St.  Clairs  in  the  matter  of         I 

homage,  resolved  to  have  a  representative  in  the  islands        I  \    ,    *^  ^       /  rr    i  ! 

who  should  uphold  Danish  authority.      Accordingly  he  ap-        \)k  J  ^  ^  1 

pointed  Bishop  Tulloch  his  commisvsioner,  1420,  giving  him  '  ^  ^^^ 

the  Palace  of  Kirkwall  with  its  pertinents. 

The  Bishop  undertook  to  hold  the  Crown  lands  of  Orkney 
for  the  Scandinavian  kings,  and  promised  to  tidminister  law 
and  justice  according  to  the  ancient  usages.* 

He  came  to  Orkney  in  1422,  and  in  the  year  following 
he  was  relieved  of  the  secular  rule,  which  was  given  to  David 
Menzies  of  Wemyss.t  Arms  of  Bishop  Tliomas  Tulloch, 

The  choice  proved  an  unfortunate  one,  and,  after  five  from  Remains  of  Tomb,  St. 

years  of  misrule  and  oppression,  Menzies  was  compelled  to  Magims  Cathedral, 

abandon  his  oflSce,  and  Tulloch  was  reinstated.    The  Bishop 

now  had  the  task  set  him  "  to  search  the  archives,  records,  and  all  other  evidences,"  to  see 
whether  the  claim  of  the  St.  Clairs  to  the  Orkney  earldom  was  valid. 

This  search  he  undertook  and  completed,  tracing  the  descent  of  William  St.  Clair  back  to 
the  very  first  of  the  earls,  and  publishing  the  results  of  the  labours  of  himself  and  colleagues 
in  a  "  Diploma,  or  Deduction,  concerning  the  Genealogies  of  the  Ancient  Counts  of  Orkney, 
from  their  First  Creation  to  the  Fifteenth  Century :  Drawn  up  from  the  most  authentic 
Records,  by  Thomas,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  with  the  assistance  of  his  Clergy  and  others,  in 

*  Anderson,  intro.,  79.  t  Ibid.,  69. 


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THE  bishop's  palace.  63 

consequence  of  an  Order  from  Eric,  King  of  Denmark,  to  investigate  the  Bight  of  William 
Sinclair  to  the  Earldom."  * 

Bishop  Thomas  was  buried  in  the  Cathedral,  across  the  choir  from  the  grave  of  William 
the  Old,  and  his  tomb  is  often  referred  to  in  contracts  as  a  place  agreed  upon  by  parties  for 
the  repayment  of  debts  and  the  cancelling  of  bonds. 

Thomas  was  succeeded  in  the  bishopric  by  his  cousin,  William  Tulloch,  of  whom  it  may 
safely  be  said  that  no  churchman  ever  enjoyed  a  greater  share  of  Royal  favour.  In  Orkney  he 
was  Vicegerent  for  the  Scandinavian  monarch,  in  Scotland  he  was  Lord  Privy  Seal,  and  in 
Copenhagen,  "  Tulloch,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  a  Scotsman  and  a  prelate  of  high  accomplishments 
and  great  suavity  of  manners,  enjoyed  the  friendship  and  esteem  of  Christian,  King  of 
Denmark  and  Norway."  t 

If  Eric  had  been  doubtful  of  the  loyalty  of  William  St.  Clair,  Christian  had  no  less  reason 
to  be  dissatisfied.  After  this  king  had  been  thirteen  years  on  the  throne,  Bishop  William  was 
good  enough  to  apologise  for  the  negligent  Earl  on  the  ground  that,  having  been  appointed  one 
of  the  regents  of  the  kingdom  during  the  minority  of  James  III.,  his  presence  was  required  at 
the  Scottish  Court,  and  therefore  he  could  not  come  to  take  the  oath  of  allegiance. 

But  the  St.  Clairs,  if  they  ever  knew  of  Bishop  TuUoch's  good  offices  on  their  behalf, 
forgot  them,  and  as  soon  as  one  of  the  name  came  to  reside  in  the  Castle  of  Kirkwall,  he  shut 
up  the  amiable  prelate  in  prison.  This,  as  has  been  seen,  was  the  first  of  a  series  of  events 
which  led  to  the  marriage  of  Margaret,  Princess  of  Denmark,  to  James  III.  of  Scotland,  and 
the  impignoration  of  Orkney  and  Shetland,  1468.  Thus  William  VI.  waa  the  last  Bishop  of 
Orkney  under  Norwegian  consecration,  and  a  papal  bull,  issued  August  1472,  placed  this  See 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  St.  Andrews.  In  1477,  Bishop  Tulloch  was  translated  to  the  Scottish 
See  of  Moray. 

Lord  Sinclair's  rental,  1497,  affords  many  proofs  that,  if  Bishop  William  looked  after 
King  Christian's  interests,  he  did  not  neglect  his  own.  ''  And  the  King  and  erle  ever  had  the 
scattis  of  all  the  bischoppis  land  in  this  parrochinn,|  quhill  of  lait  that  bischop  William 
stoppit  the  samen."  Again,  in  Sanday— **  The  forcop,  the  levis,  the  scattis  that  the  bischop 
takis  suld  be  the  Kingis." 

*'  Thairof  §  the  bischop  takis  the  full  scattis,  and  nevir  a  word  thairof  in  the  auld  rentale." 

"  Thairof  ||  the  kirk  takis  the  scat  quhilk  is  nocht  in  the  bischoppis  auld  rentale." 

Andrew,  the  first  Bishop  under  Scottish  rule,  was  a  man  of  much  influence  at  Court.  To 
him  Kirkwall  probably  owes  her  Charter  of  1486  making  the  town  a  Royal  Burgh  under  the 
Scottish  Crown.  The  chief  object  of  this  charter  "  seems  to  have  been  to  secure  the  preserva- 
tion of  the  Cathedral  by  committing  the  charge  of  it,  with  funds  for  upholding  it,  to  some 
local  authority."  H  In  1490,  Bishop  Andrew  got  a  charter  erecting  the  whole  bi^opric  into  a 
regality,  thus  making  himself  and  his  successors  independent  of  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
earldom.    Eleven  years  later  this  charter  was  confirmed  by  another. 

Edward  Stewart,  who  succeeded  in  1511,  was  a  man  of  illustrious  descent  and  high 
character.  He  was  also  a  man  of  taste,  with  means  sui£cient  to  gratify  the  ezpensftfe'  pleasure 
of  Cathedral  building. 

It  is  stated  by  Wallace  that  "  he  enlarged  the  Cathedral  Kirk  to  the  East  all  above  the 
Grees." 

Of  his  east  window,  Barry  says  : — "  There  is  an  elegant  window  in  the  same  style,  form, 
and  proportions,  though  inferior  in  point  of  size,  with  that  which  has  been  so  much  and  so 
justly  admired  in  York  minster  in  England." 

♦  Barry,  App.  i.,  399.      t  Tytler,  iv.  215.      J  Deemess.      §  Langta.      ||  Lemsgarth.      IT  Peterkin* 


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64 


KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 


Arms  of  Bishop  Stewart,  from  St. 
MagQus  Cathedral. 


Stewart's  successor,  Bishop    Thomas,  established  an  endowment  for  the    support  of 
choristers.* 

Bishop  Maxwell  was  the  next  occupant  of  the 
Palace.  ^'  In  the  year  1536,  when  James  V.  made  his 
famous  progress  through  the  islands  belonging  to  his 
crown,  his  majesty  was  nobly  entertained  by  this  bishop 
at  his  own  charges,  and  at  this  time  the  king  was 
pleased  to  give  the  town  of  Kirkwall  a  confirmation  of 
its  royalty."  f 

Tradition  points  to  a  house  on  the  west  side  of  the 
Laverock  as  the  dwelling  of  Bishop  Maxwell  at  this 
time,  and  the  bed  in  which  His  Majesty  slept  was  long 
preserved.  It  might  easily  be  proved  that  at  the  time 
of  the  royal  visit  there  were  no  houses  on  that  side  of 
the  street,  the  whole  of  which  was  occupied  by  the  peat 
braes  and  kaill  yards  of  the  houses  on  the  east  side. 

The  old  bed  may  have  been  used  by  the  king,  for  in 
his  time  the  royal  wanderer  was  the  more  or  less 
welcome  occupant  of  many  a  bed,  but  the  palace  was  his  home.  Barry,  without  quoting 
authority,  says  so,  and  Buchanan,  who  was  almost  contemporary,  leaves  no  doubt  as  to  its 
being  not  only  habitable,  but  capable  of  accommodating  a 
large  retinue.  **  He  (James  V.)  first  sailed  to  the  Orkneys, 
where  he  quieted  the  disorders  and  placed  garrisons  in  two 
castles,  the  King's  cjistle  and  the  Bishop's." 

Burton  puts  it : — "  The  fleet  sailed  along  the  east  coast 
until  it  reached  Orkney,  where  the  hospitalities  of  the 
Bishop  were  welcome." 

Peterkin  says  :— "  During  his  stay  in  Kirkwall  he  was 
hospitably  entertained  in  the  Bishop's  Palace." 

That  no  other  house  in  Kirkwall  was  ever  known  as 
the  Bishop's  Palace  is  abundantly  proved  by  the  records  of 
sasine.  These  commence  about  one  hundred  years  after 
the  visit  of  James  V.,  and  they  forget  nothing  in  the  early 
history  of  a  tenement  that  can  help  towards  its  identifi- 
cation. The  houses  of  the  dignitaries  are  all  noted  as  the 
house  "  of  old  called  "  the  Provostrie,  the  Thesaurerie,  etc., 
and  had  Bishop  Maxwell  ever  possessed  a  house  in  the 
Laverock  the  fact  would  have  been  recorded  in  the  sasines. 
Bishop  Maxwell  put  up  stalls  for  the  clergy  at  the  east 
end  of  the  choir,  and  adorned  them  with  curious  carving, 
hung  in  the  Cathedral  Tower. 

Maxwell  was  succeeded  by  Robert  Reid,  in  whose  episcopate  the  splendour  of  Romish 
rule  in  Kirkwall  culminated.  He  was  born  at  Aykenhead  in  Morayshire,  and  was  educated  at 
St.  Salvator's  College,  St.  Andrews.  His  father,  John  Reid,  was  killed  in  the  battle  of  Flodden. 
Before  coining  to  Orkney,  Reid  had  been  Subdean  of  Moray,  Abbot  of  Kinloss,  and  Prior 
of  Beauly.  In  1533  he  was  sent  by  James  V.,  along  with  William  Stewart,  Bishop  of  Aber- 
deen, on  an  embassy  to  Henry  VIII.  to  negotiate  a  peace,  which  was  arranged.      "On 

♦  Keith.  t  Keith. 


Arms  of  Bishop  Maxwell,  from 
Old  Gateway  in  Victoria 
Street,  Kirkwall. 

He  also  had  a  set  of  three  beUs 


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THE  bishop's  palace.  65 

various  occasions  he  received  from  King  Henry  gifts  of  silver  vessels/'*  In  1535,  and  again  in 
the  following  year,  he  was  in  France  on  missions  concerning  the  marriage  of  James  V.  of 
Scotland  to  Magdalen,  daughter  of  Francis  L 

"The  marriage  was  solemnized  the  first  of  Januar.  (1537)  in  the  church  of  Nostredame  in 
Parise.  They  took  their  leave  of  the  Frenche  king  about  the  end  of  Aprile,  and  landed  at 
Leith  the  26th  of  May.  Frome  thence  they  were  conveyed  with  great  pomp  to  the  Aljbey  of 
Halyrudhous.  But  she,  being  consumed  with  an  hecticke  fever,  ended  her  dayes  the  7th.  or 
10th.  of  Julie  immediately  following.  Her  death  was  dolorous  to  men  of  all  sorts.  Then 
beganne  first  the  use  of  mourning  or  doole  weeds  in  Scotland."  t 

In  his  offices  of  Abbot  and  Prior,  Robert  Reid  was  active  and  generous.  In  1538  he 
erected  a  spacious  fireproof  library  at  Kinloss,  and  in  1540  he  built  the  nave  of  the  church  of 
Beauly.  As  Bishop  of  Orkney,  he  meditated  vast  designs  for  the  good  of  his  church  and  the 
benefit  of  his  people,  only  some  of  which  he  was  able  to  carry  into  effect.  Architecture  and 
horticulture  were  his  hobbies.  He  brought  from  France  a  gardener,  wiio  had  lost  a  foot  in  a 
naval  engagement  between  the  French  and  Spaniards  near 
Marseilles.  This  man  was  an  expert  in  the  planting  and 
grafting  of  fruit  trees,  and  was  also  skilled  in  surgery. 

But  public  duties  gave  the  Bishop  little  leisure  for 
private  enjoyments.  Five  years  after  his  appointment  to 
the  bishopric  he  was  made  a  judge  in  the  Court  of  Session, 
and  a  few  years  later  saw  him  Lord  President.  Yet  he  had 
the  interests  of  his  See  always  at  heart,  and,  whether  he 
himself  were  in  Kirkwall  or  in  the  south,  the  improvements 
which  he  had  designed  were  in  constant  progress.  He 
extended  the  Cathedml  westward,  lengthening  the  nave  by 
three  arches,  thus  making  the  church  take  the  form  of  a 
Latin  cross,  the  western  limb  being  in  the  eyes  of  severe 
critics  a  little  too  long.  In  making  this  extension.  Bishop 
Reid  showed  such  regard  for  the  beautiful  work  of  his 

predecessors,  that  he  had  the  ancient  doorways  at  the  west       .  r  t»-  i       t>    j    r        r\iA 

*  .         ,         '  -  ,,.,.,.  Arms  of  Bishop  Reid,  from  Old 

taken  down,  stone   by  stone,  and  rebuilt  m  their  present  Gateway  in  Victoria  Street, 

position.     The  gable  having  been  removed  westward,  and  Kirkwall. 

the  walls  built,  the  roofing  of  this  part  of  the  fabric  was 

in  process  when  the  work  was  stopped  by  the  death  of  the  builder,  and  his  design  was  never 

thoroughly  completed. 

Contemporaneously  with  the  enlargement  of  the  Cathedral,  the  Bishop  reorganised  the 
whole  ecclesiastical  establishment,  placing  the  several  endowments  on  a  clear  and  proper 
footing.  He  appointed  seven  dignitaries,  seven  prebendaries,  thirteen  chaplains,  six  choristers, 
and  a  sacristan.  In  filling  up  the  various  offices,  if  the  names  form  any  criterion,  Reid  seems 
to  have  encouraged  native  talent.  The  dignitaries  were  Malcolm  Halcro,  provost ;  John 
Tyrie,  archdeacon  ;  Nicholas  Halcro,  chantor  ;  Alexander  Scott,  chancellor  ;  Stephen  Culross, 
treasurer  ;  Peter  Houston,  sub-dean  ;  M.'ignus  Strang,  sub-chantor  ;  and  for  these  he  provided 
official  residences  near  the  Cathedral.  With  remarkable  minuteness  the  careful  Bishop  laid 
down  the  duties  and  emoluments  of  all  of  them,  evidently  believing  that  the  constitution  he 
was  giving  his  church  would  last  for  ages,  but  he  was  scarcely  cold  in  his  foreign  grave  when 
the  Reformation  reduced  his  grand  design  to  ruin. 

Perhaps  more  important,  and  certainly  more  enduring,  were  his  eflForts  on  behalf  of  the 
•  Shaw,  Hist,  of  Moray.  f  Calderwood,  i.  112, 

K 


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66  KIRKWALL   IN  THE   ORKNEYS. 

youth  of  Kirkwall.  Besides  putting  the  Grammar  School  upon  a  proper  footing,  his  educa- 
tional schemes  included  a  college,  houses  for  which  were  erected  close  by  his  palace.  "  He 
was  a  great  Builder,  for  he  caused  build  a  stately  Tower  to  the  North  of  the  Bishop's  Palace, 
where  his  Statue,  engraven  in  stone,  is  as  yet  remaining  set  in  the  wall.  He  greatly  enlarged 
the  Cathedral  Kirk,  adding  three  Pillars  to  the  former  Fabrick,  and  decoring  the  Entry  with 
A  Magnificent  Porch.  He  moreover  built  St.  Olau's  Kirk,  in  Kirkwall,  and  a  large  Court  of 
Houses  to  be  a  CoUedge  for  the  Instructing  of  the  Youth  of  this  Countrey  in  Grammar  and 
Philosophy."  * 

But  the  eighteen  years  of  his  episcopate  were  all  too  short  to  carry  into  execution  his 
philanthropic  wishes,  and  he  left  behind  him  much  unfinished  work. 

Bishop  Reid  saw  the  beginning  of  the  Reformation,  and  was  one  of  those  who  believed 
that  by  vigorous  action  on  the  part  of  the  Church  the  Lutheran  heresy  could  be  stamped  out. 

In  1550,  we  find  our  Bishop,  with  many  of  the  nobility  and  clergy,  in  Blackfriars* 
Church,  Edinburgh,  sitting  in  judgment  upon  a  poor  heretic,  Adam  Wallace,  who  was  con- 
demned to  be  burned  on  the  Castle  HilLf 

This  persecution  had  the  usual  result— some  timid  ones  recanted,  some  went  into  exile, 
and  some  vindicated  their  principles  at  the  stake,  while  every  act  of  severity  weakened  the 
influence  of  the  persecuting  church.  **Mr  William  Johnstoun,  Advocat,  fled  out  of  the 
countrie.    Reid,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  bought  his  houss,  being  confiscated,  with  a  small  summe."} 

In  February  1558,  Reid  was  one  of  eight  Commissioners  sent  to  Paris  to  witness  the 
marriage  of  the  young  Queen  Mary  to  the  Dauphin  of  France.  To  more  than  one  of  the 
embassy  this  voyage  was  disastrous.  "  They  losed  two  ships  not  farre  froine  the  raid  of 
BuUoigne.  None  of  the  passingers  were  safe,  except  the  Erie  of  Rothes  and  the  Bishop  of 
Orkney,  who  were  received  into  a  fischer  boate  and  convoyed  to  land.  The  marriage  was 
solemnized  in  Parise  with  great  magnificence  in  the  church  of  Nostredame,  the  24th 
of  Aprile  1558.  The  Commissioners  being  dismissed  frome  Court,  the  Erie  of  Cassils, 
the  Earle  of  Rothes,  the  Lord  Fleming,  the  Bishop  of  Orkney,  besides  others  of 
inferiour  ranke,  died  in  France,  not  without  suspicion  of  poysoun.  Lord  James,  Pryor  of 
Sanct  Andrews,  had  by  all  appearance  licked  of  the  same  box  which  dispatched  the  rest ; 
howbeit,  he  outwrastled  by  reasoun  of  the  strong  constitution  of  his  body  or  vigour  of  his 
youth."  § 

The  Prior  of  St.  Andrews  was  the  Queen's  half-brother,  afterwards  more  famous  in 
Scottish  history  as  the  Earl  of  Moray,  leader  of  the  Protestant  party.  Already  the  doctrines 
of  the  Reformation  had  taken  hold  of  the  young  man,  and  many  an  argument  he  had  with  his 
venerable  friend  regarding  the  dogmas  of  the  Romish  Church.  To  these  disputes  the  good 
Bishop  on  his  death-bed  refers  with  grim  humour.  "The  Bishop  <»t  Orkney  being  driven 
backe  by  a  contrarie  winde,  and  forced  to  land  again  at  Deepe,  perceaving  his  sickness  to 
increase,  caused  make  his  bed  betwixt  his  two  coffers.  L(»rd  James,  who  was  ever  at  debate 
with  him  for  maters  of  religiuun,  went  to  visite  him.  He,  finding  him  to  ly  otherwise  than 
the  honour  of  the  countrie  required,  said  unto  him,  *  P^y,  my  Lord,  how  ly  yee  so  heere  in  this 
oommoun  hous  ?  Will  yee  goe  to  your  chamber  V  He  answered,  '  1  am  weill  where  I  am,  ray 
lord,  so  long  as  I  can  tarie,  for  I  am  neere  to  my  freinds,'  meaning  his  coffers  and  the  gold 
therin.  *  My  lord,'  said  he,  *  how  long  have  you  and  I  beene  in  plea  for  purgatorie.  I  thinke 
I  sail  knowe  ere  it  be  long  whether  there  be  suche  a  place  or  not.'  Whill  Lord  James  exorted 
him  to  call  to  minde  God  his  promises,  and  the  vertue  of  Christ's  death,  he  answered,  *  Nay 
my  lord,  lett  me  alone  ;  for  you  and  I  never  agreed  in  our  life,  and  I  think  we  sail  not  agree 

•  Wallace.        t  Calderwood,  i.  266.        J  Calderwood,  i.  108.        §  Calderwood,  i.  331. 


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THE  bishop's  palace. 


67 


now  at  my  death,  therefore  lett  me  alone.'  The  Lord  James  departed  to  his  lodging,  the  other 
shortlie  after  out  of  this  life."  * 

*'  Robert  Reid,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  was  a  man  far  in  advance  of  his  time,  and  it  is  to  him 
that  Edinburgh  owes  the  foundation  of  its  famous  university."  He  left  8000  merks  wadset  on 
the  lands  of  Strathnaver  '*  to  build  a  college  in  Edinburgh,  having  three  schools,  one  for  bairns 
in  grammar,  another  for  those  that  learn  poetry  and  oratory,  with  chambers  for  the  regent's 
hall,  and  the  third  for  the  civil  and  canon  law,  and  which  is  recorded  by  the  Privy  Council 
of  Scotland  (1569-1578)  *  as  greatly  for  the  common  weal  and  policy  of  the  realm.'  "f 

He  was  buried  in  the  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Andrews,  generally  known  as  the  Scota 
Chapel,  in  the  Church  of  St.  James  in  Dieppe,  and  in  1872  the  French  Inspector  of  Historical 
Monuments  put  up  a  brass  tablet  to  his  memory,  t 


P 


\ 


Ci'>//f  /// /'^'Hi //«"  ^-^('/////c'<yc //All. »<" 


?i/e  fV.i  cf^hUt/fi 


0\ 


vJ\ ('(/// ff^H-a/  ///  pace 


Tablet  in  Church  in  Dieppe  to  the  memory  of  Bishop  Reid. 


401 


Thus,  in  discomfort  and  in  exile,  died  this  excellent  man,  cut  ofi*  in  the  midst  of  his  work. 
Like  his  predecessors,  he  found  delight  in  adorning  the  magnificent  Christian  temple 
committed  to  his  charge  ;  but  of  those  who  followed  him  no  one  was  found  magnanimous 
enough  to  complete  the  work  on  the  Cathedral  which  he  began.  And  though  he  was  the 
founder  of  <mr  most  famous  Scottish  university,  if  we  would  see  his  monument  we  must 
seek  it  in  the  gloom  of  an  obscure  chape],  where  a  mural  brass,  put  up  at  the  expense  of  a 
foreign  Government,  marks  his  grave.  § 

Meanwhile,  to  show  her  displeasure  at  the  marriage  of  Mary  to  the  Dauphin,  and  perhaps 

recognising  our  Bishop's  part  in  the  function,  England  sent  a  fleet,  under  Sir  John  Clare,  to 

harass  the  coasts  of  Scotland.    "  He  sailed  to  the  Orkneys  to  burn  Kirkwall,  an  Episcopal  See 

•  Calderwood,  i.  331.        t  Old  and  New  Edinburgh,  iii.  26.         %  Tudor,  p.  251. 
§  Photo,  procured  through  the  kindness  of  the  late  Father  Henderson. 


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^8  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

«Dd  the  only  town  in  that  country,  but  when  he  had  landed  a  considerable  part  of  his  force, 
a  violent  tempest  suddenly  arose  and  drove  the  fleet  to  sea,  where,  after  contending  a  long 
time  with  the  storm,  he  returned  to  England.  All  the  men  he  disembarked  on  the  island  were 
slain  by  the  natives."  * 

The  mention  of  Kirkwall  as  an  Episcopal  See  in  connection  with  this  invasion  would  show 
that  the  writer  considered  the  destruction  of  our  Cathedral  as  the  primary  object  the  English 
admirul  had  in  view,  and  this  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  narrowest  escapes  the  venerable 
pile  has  had  during  its  long  history. 

Adam  Both  well,  who  succeeded  Reid,  was  the  son  of  Sir  Francis  Both  well,  one  of  the 
judges  of  the  Court  of  Session.  His  sister,  Janet,  married  Sir  Alexander  Napier  of 
Merchiston,  and  became  the  mother  of  John  Napier,  the  celebrated  inventor  of  Logarithms. 

Both  well  was  the  last  of  our  Romish  prelates.  The  Reformation,  which  had  burst  upon 
Scotland  in  a  revolutionary  storm,  made  little  or  no  stir  in  Orkney,  and  this  was  largely  due 
to  the  tact  of  the  Bishop.  He  preserved  the  vested  rights  of  the  clergy  then  in  office,  and 
allowed  them  to  make  the  most  they  could  for  themselves  of  the  lands  belonging  to  their 
respective  churches : — "  Thomas  Richardson,  prebendary  of  St.  Catherine's  Stouk,  with 
consent  of  Adam,  bishop  of  Orkney,  gave  and  granted  to  Gilbert  Balfour  of  Westray  and  his 
45on,  Archibald  Balfour,  the  lands  of  Touquoy  and  others  in  Westray,  and  other  lands  in 
Sanday  and  Stronsay."  t  And  so  with  the  rest  of  them  —  Alexander  Dick,  provost ; 
Hieroninius  Tulloch,  sub-chantor;  Gilbert  Foulzie,  archdean— all  "sett "their  temporalities 
to  the  best  advantage. 

Thus  he  got  the  clergy  with  him  to  a  n»an,  and  he  was  nearly  as  successful  with  the  laity. 

In  his  "  Answers  to  the  oftences  layed  to  his  charge,"  "  For  the  First  he  answered,  That  it 
is  true,  that,  in  the  58th  year  of  God,  before  the  reformation  of  religion,  he  was,  according  to 
the  order  then  observed,  provided  to  the  bishopric  of  Orkney ;  and,  when  idolatrie  and 
superstitioun  were  suppressed,  he  suppressed  the  same  also  in  his  bounds,  preached  the  Word 
and  ministered  the  sacraments  ;  planted  ministers  in  Orkney  and  Zetland,  dispouned  benefices, 
and  gave  stipends  out  of  his  rents  to  exhorters  and  readers  ;  and,  when  he  was  commissioner^ 
Tisited  all  kirks  of  Orkney  and  Zetland  twise."^ 

To  these  visits,  and  his  exhortations  in  every  church  in  the  diocese,  must  be  largely 
attributed  the  quietness  with  which  the  islanders  accepted  the  change. 

That  he  was  not  able  to  convert  every  one  to  his  views,  a  recent  writer  §  on  the  subject 
43hows  us,  but  so  nearly  complete  was  his  success  that  the  Reformation  in  Orkney  may  be 
described  as  utterly  eventless. 

There  must  have  been  at  this  time  a  very  general  snapping  up  of  unconsidered  trifles  by 
Bishop  Bothwell  and  his  subordinates. 

Besides  the  lands,  the  revenues  of  which  formed  the  proper  support  of  the  church,  there 
were  many  special  endowments  of  altars  and  chaplainries  dedicated  to  particular  saints. 
Saints  Barbara,  Catherine,  Christopher,  and  John  had  houses  in  different  parts  of  the  town, 
'but  these  fell  to  the  Corporation,  as  does  every  ownerless  tenement. 

Within  the  Cathedral,  however,  the  gorgeous  ritual  of  the  Church  of  Rome,  under  such 
prelates  as  Stewart  and  Maxwell  and  Reid,  entailed  a  costly  paraphernalia  in  gold  and  silver. 
Private  bequests,  too,  can  be  traced.  Alexander  Sutherland  of  Dunbeath,  by  his  will,  dated 
at  Roslin,  15th  Nov.  1456,  leaves  a  silver  chalice  "  to  Sanct  Maunis  altar  in  Kirkwall,  and  the 
•chalys  to  be  giltit." 

Sir  Alexander  Sinclair,  1506,  leaves  his  "  red  cote  of  welwote  to  the  hie  altar  of  the  Ryrk 
of  Orkney." 

*  Buchanan.        f  Peterkin.        f  Calderwood,  ii.  530.        t  Craven  Hist.,  1558-1662,  p.  6. 


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THE  bishop's  palace.  69 

Certainly  those  who  had  the  opportunity,  and  could  face  the  theft,  would  find  such  things 
interesting  and  valuable  souvenirs  of  the  ancient  worship.  However  it  went,  the  last  ounce  of 
the  old  Cathedral  plate  disappeared  at  the  Reformation. 

The  opposition  referred  to  by  the  historian  of  Episcopacy  in  Orkney  is  given  by  him  in 
the  Bishop's  own  words : — "  quhen  thai*  wer  all  gathered,  and  inquyret  be  certain  off  my 
messingeris  sent  to  thaime  to  that  efFek,  giflF  yai  wald  be  content  off  mutatioun  off  religion, 
quhilk  thai  reffussit,  and  that  notwithstanding  I  cloisset  my  kirk  dorris  and  hes  thoild  na 
mess  to  be  said  thairin  sensyme,  qhowbeit  thai  wer  sua  irritat  thairbe  that,  efter  thai  haid 
requyret  me  sindrie  tymes  to  let  thaime  in  to  that  effek,  at  last  gaderet  together  in  gret 
multitude,  brocht  ane  priest  to  ane  chapell  hard  at  the  scheik  of  the  schamber  quhair  I  was 
lyand  seik,  and  thair  causset  do  mess  and  marye  certaine  paris  in  the  auld  maner.  This  was 
donne  on  Sonday  last,  quhiJk  I  culd  not  stoppe  without  I  wald  haiff  committet  slauchter.'* 

By  allowing  the  Sinclairs  to  have  their  own  way  he  disarmed  their  opposition. 

It  was  this  Bishop  who,  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  15th  of  May  1567,  in  the 
great  hall  of  Holyrood  Palace,  married  Queen  Mary  of  Scotland  to  James  Hepburn,  Earl  of 
Both  well.  **  The  Bishop  of  Orkney  alone  could  be  found,  who  preferred  the  favour  of  the 
Court  to  truth,  all  the  rest  loudly  exclaimed  against  the  marriage."  t 

But  when  Bothwell  fled  before  a  nation's  wrath,  the  Bishop  joined  in  the  pursuit.  "  On 
the  eleventh  of  August  a  commission  was  issued  to  Murray  of  TuUibardine  and  Kirkaldy  of 
Grange  to  pursue  the  earl  and  his  accomplices  by  sea  or  land,  with  fire,  sword,  and  all  sort  of 
hostility,  and  fence  and  hold  courts  of  justice  wheresoever  they  shall  think  good.  The 
notorious  Bishop  of  Orkney,  who  waa  also  a  Lord  of  Session,  accompanied  the  expedition,  to 
act  no  doubt  as  assessor  in  case  of  the  capture  of  the  fugitive." 

"  Kirkaldy  and  Tullibardine  at  length  descried  the  object  of  their  search  on  the  eastern 
coast  of  Shetland.  An  exciting  chase  ensued,  in  which  Bothwell's  light  vessels,  filled  with 
desperate  men  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  navigation  of  those  dangerous  seas,  had  the 
decided  advantage.  At  length,  to  lure  their  enemies  to  destruction,  they  dashed  through  the 
narrow  and  intricate  channel  of  Bressa  Sound.  The  manoeuvre  was  successful.  Kirkaldy, 
who  led  the  pursuit  in  the  largest  ship  belonging  to  the  expedition,  crowded  all  sail  and 
followed  the  fugitives  ;  but,  striking  on  a  sunken  rock,  his  vessel  filled  so  rapidly  that  he  and 
his  companions  had  barely  time  to  save  their  lives.  The  leap  which  the  Bishop  of  Orkney,  in 
particular,  made  from  the  deck  of  the  sinking  ship  was  long  remembered  as  a  feat  of  singular 
ability.": 

'^  The  Bishop,  being  last  in  the  ship,  and  seeing  the  boat  loosing,  called  to  them  to  stay 
for  him,  but  they,  being  suflSciently  loaded,  would  not  hear  him,  and  seeing  no  other  remedy, 
he  leapt  into  the  Boat,  having  on  him  a  Corslet  of  proff,  which  was  thought  to  be  a  strange 
jump,  especially  not  to  have  overturned  the  Boat."  § 

It  was  Bishop  Bothwell,  too,  who  crowned  Marjr's  son,  James  VI.,  at  Stirling,  29th 
August  1657.  "  Mr.  Knox  made  an  excellent  sermon  before  the  coronation.  After  sermon, 
the  Bishop  of  Orkney  sett  the  crowne  on  his  head.  The  erle  of  Morton  and  the  Lord  Hume 
tooke  the  oath  for  him  that  he  sould  maintain  and  defend  the  religioun  then  preached  and 
professed  in  Scotland,  and  pursue  all  such  as  sould  oppugne  the  same."|| 

As  has  been  seen,  the  Bishop  twice  visited  all  the  kirks  in  the  islands ;  and  he  gives  as 
his  reason  for  leaving  Orkney  ^4nfirmitie  and  sicknesse  contracted  through  the  aire  of  the 
countrie  and  travells  in  time  of  tempest." 

It  is  commonly  said  that  before  his  final  departure  he  made  an  excambion  of  the 

*  Some  of  the  Sinclairs  instigat  be  the  Justioe  Clerk  (Craven,  p.  6).        t  Bachanan. 
:;:  Hosack's  Queen  Mary,  i.  371.        §  Wallace,  p.  72.         ||  Calderwood,  ii.  384. 


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70  KIRKWAIX   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

•  bishopric  lands  with  Robert  Stewart,  natural  son  of  James  V.,  for  the  Abbacy  of  Holyrood. 
With  regard  to  this,  however,  "  He  denyed  that  ever  he  dimitted  to  my  Lord  Robert  his  office 
or  anie  part  thereof ;  but  that  the  said  Lord  Robert  violentlie  intruded  himself  on  his  whole 
living  with  bloodshed  and  hurt  of  his  servants ;  and,  after  he  had  craved  justice,  his  and  his 
servants'  lives  were  sought  in  the  verie  eyes  of  justice  in  Edinburgh ;  and  then  was 
constrained  of  meere  necessitie  to  tak  the  abbacie  of  Halyrudhous  by  advice  of  sundrie  godlie 
men."  * 

Such  a  statement,  coming  from  a  bishop  of  the  Scottish  Church  and  judge  in  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  realm,  cannot  be  lightly  set  aside. 

Bothwell  was  the  last  bishop  in  possession  of  the  old  Palace.  His  predecessor's  un- 
finished work  had  left  a  large  part  of  the  building  uninhabitable ;  he  himself  required  to 
spend  much  of  his  time  in  Edinburgh,  where  he  had  a  stately  mansion  ;  and  Earl  Robert,  who 
next  came  into  possession  of  the  bishopric,  preferring  to  build  a  palace  for  himself,  left  the 
Place  of  the  Yards  to  go  to  ruin. 

Bothwell's  Edinburgh  residence,  which  has  a  two-fold  Orcadian  connection,  is  thus 
described  : — "  A  doorway  on  the  east  side  of  Byre's  close  aflfbrds  access  to  a  handsome,  though 
now  ruinous,  stone  stair,  guarded  by  a  neatly  carved  ballustrade,  and  leading  to  a  garden 
terrace,  on  which  stands  a  very  beautiful  old  mansion  that  yields  in  interest  to  none  of  the 
private  buildings  of  the  capital.  It  presents  a  semi-hexagonal  front  to  the  north,  each  of  the 
sides  of  which  is  surmounted  by  a  richly  carved  dormer  window,  bearing  inscrif)tions  boldly 
cut  in  large  Roman  letters.  That  over  the  north  window  is  : — *  nihil,  est.  ex.  omni.  parte. 
BEATUM.'  The  windows  along  the  east  side  appear  to  have  been  originally  similarly  adorned  ; 
two  of  their  carved  tops  are  built  into  an  outhouse  below,  on  one  of  which  is  the  inscription, 
*  Laus.  Ubique.  Deo.,'  and  on  the  other,  *  Feliciter.  Infelix.' " 

"  The  name  of  the  Bishop  of  Orkney  appears  at  the  bond  granted  by  the  nobility  to  the 
Earl  of  Bothwell  immediately  before  he  put  in  practice  his  ambitious  scheme  against  Queen 
Mary  ;  so  that  here,  in  all  probability,  the  rude  Earl  and  many  of  the  leading  nobles  have  met 
to  discuss  their  daring  plans.  Here,  too,  we  may  believe  both  Mary  and  James  to  have  been 
entertained  as  guests  by  father  and  son,  while  at  the  same  board  sat  another  lovely  woman, 
whose  wrongs  are  so  touchingly  recorded  in  the  beautiful  old  ballad  of  *  Lady  Ann  Bothwell's 
Lament.'"  f 

Lady  Ann  was  the  grand-daughter  of  the  Bishop,  and  her  betrayer  was  Sir  Alexander 
Erskine,  son  of  the  Earl  of  Mar. 

Bishop  Bothwell's  Edinburgh  mansion  was  afterwards  the  dwelling  of  Sir  William  Dick 
of  Braid,  Sheriff  of  Orkney,  who  farmed  the  bishopric  rents  from  1638  to  1646. 

Bothwell  married  Margaret  Murray  of  Touchadam,  and  his  son,  John,  who  succeeded  him, 
was  created  Lord  Holjrroodhouse  in  the  peerage  of  Scotland,  1607. 

Adam  Bothwell  died  in  1693,  and  was  buried  in  Holyrood  Chapel,  where  his  tomb  may 
still  be  seen.  The  very  long  epitaph  begins  :— "  Hie  reconditus  jacet  nobilissimus  vir 
Dominus  Adamus  Bothuelius,  Episcopus  Orcadum  et  Zetlandiae  :  Commendatorius  Monasterii 
Sancti  Crucis  :  Senator  et  Consiliarius  Regius  :  qui  obiit  anno  jetatis  suae  67.  23  die  Mensis 
Augusti  Anno  Domini  1593." 

Eastward  from  the  round  tower  of  the  Place  of  the  Yards  stood  a  square  tower  which 
belonged  to  the  garrison  side  of  the  palace.  This  contained  the  Massy  More  or  dungeon,  and 
it  has  bequeathed  its  name  to  its  surviving  neighbour  under  the  corrupted  form,  "Moosie 
Tooer."t 

These  two  towers  were  joined  by  a  wall  pierced  by  an  arched  gateway,  the  entrance  to  the 
*  Calderwood,  ii.  631.  t  Wilson's  Memorials  of  Edinburgh,  ii.  6.  t  Marmion,  Note  2  Z. 


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THE  bishop's  palace.  71 

courtyard.  This  arch,  known  as  the  "Water  Gate,"  was  removed  as  an  obstruction  in  1877, . 
and  is  now  to  be  seen  built  into  the  east  wall  of  the  Palace,  so  that  it  appears  as  an  integral 
part  of  the  building  to  which  it  had  formed  the  approach.  From  Low's  description  of  the 
Palace,  1774,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  square  tower,  which  he  nevertheless  figures,  had  been 
demolished  before  his  time  :— "  Near  the  Cathedral  to  the  S.,  we  see  the  ruins  of  what  they 
call  the  round  tower,  or  the  old  Bishop's  Palace,  said  to  be  built  by  Bishop  Reid,  together  with 
some  other  buildings  which  he  designed  for  a  college,  in  which  the  youth  of  the  town  were  to 
be  taught  the  branches  of  learning  then  in  vogue,  now  turned  into  dwelling-houses." 

There  was  no  square  tower  then  ;  but  in  1667,  though  going  to  ruin,  it  was  still  a  place  of 
strength,  and  the  authorities,  dreading  invasion,  turned  it  to  account. 

Copy  of  a  document  docketed  : — 

**  Collectors  nomioat  for  collecting  the  Moneys  for  Ammunition  and  for  regulating  the  church  and 
castle,  the  14th.  May  1667." 

"  Kirkwall,  the  14th.  May  1667. 

**  The  Commissioners  and  Justices  appoint  David  forbes  and  David  Halcro  to  be  collectors  above 
the  Castle,  Robert  Richan  and  George  Mowat  to  be  Collectors  be  low  the  castle,  and  the  collectors  to 
go  speedily  about  it,  As  they  tender  his  Mastie's  ser\ice  and  security  of  this  place.  And  as  they  would 
not  oe  proceeded  against  by  the  Commissioners  in  case  of  Refuseall. 

*'  Item,  they  ordain  those  that  have  arms  to  fix  them.  And  those  that  wants  arms  to  provide 
them  in  arms  before  the  29th.  of  this  Instant  May,  which  is  the  day  to  be  the  Rendeyvous,  ilk  man 
under  the  paine  of  fourty  shillings  Scotts,  and  to  be  committed  to  prison  while  they  pay  the  same, 
and  ordains  this  to  be  published  through  the  Toun  by  Touk  of  Drumn  to-njorrow.  Sic  like  the 
Commissioners  and  Justices  recommend  it  to  the  Commanders  of  the  three  Companies  to  sie  the  works 
at  the  shore  and  betwixt  the  Church  and  the  Place  and  above  the  Toun  head  with  fealls,  and  to  view 
the  Bishop's  decayed  house  that  the  doores  and  windows  liiay  be  dOcured,*  as  also  the  'Back  gaite  of  the 
court,  and  to  be  careful!  that  the  Cannon  be  mounted  on  the  Square  Tower. 

* '  And  for  that  effect  that  they  condescend  on  some  fitt  person  for  overseeing  the  works,  and  to 
give  him  reasonable  encouragement,  etc.,  etc."* 

Signed  by  Pa.  Blair,  Jamks  Murray,  William  Young. 
•  J.  W.  Cursiter's  Papers. 


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CHAPTER  VII. 

The  EarPs  Palace. 

JATRICK  STEWART,  who  had  succeeded  to  the  earldom  in  1591,  obtained  in  1600  a 
l^^  grent  of  the  bishopric,  and  at  once  began  to  build  what  is  now  known  as  the  Earl's 
Palace. 

This,  when  finished,  "  formed,  with  the  old  bishops'  towers  and  house,  a  complete  square 
of  buildings  extending  from  east  to  west  about  240  feet,  and  from  south  to  north  above  200, 
with  an  open  area  or  close  in  the  middle."  * 

The  "  Newark  in  the  Yards  "  was  an  exceedingly  handsome  building.  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
who  visited  the  ruins  in  1814,  thus  describes  it :— "It  is  an  elegant  structure,  partaking  at 
once  of  the  character  of  a  palace  and  castle.  The  great  hall  must  have  been  remarkably 
handsome,  opening  into  two  or  three  huge  rounds  or  turrets,  the  lower  part  of  which  is 
divided  by  stone  shafts  into  three  windows. 

'*  It  has  two  immense  chimneys,  the  lintels  of  which  are  formed  by  a  flat  arch,  as  in 
Crichton  Castle.  There  is  another  very  handsome  apartment,  communicating  with  the  hall, 
like  a  modern  drawing-room,  and  which  has,  like  the  former,  its  projecting  turrets.  The  hall 
is  lighted  by  a  fine  Gothic-shaped  window  at  one  end  and  by  others  at  the  sides.  It  is 
approached  by  a  spacious  and  elegant  staircase  of  three  flights  of  steps.  Any  modern  architect, 
wishing  to  emulate  the  real  Gothic  architecture,  and  apply  it  to  the  purposes  of  modem 
^lendour,  might  derive  excellent. hints  from  this  room. 

"  The  exterior  ornaments  are  also  extremely  elegant.  Architecture  seems  to  have  been 
Earl  Patrick's  prevailing  taste.  Besides  this  castle  and  that  of  Scalloway,  he  enlarged  the  old 
Castle  of  Birsay. 

'*  To  accomplish  these  objects,  he  oppressed  the  people  with  severities  unheard  of  even  in 
that  oppressive  age,  drew  down  on  himself  a  shameful,  though  deserved,  punishment,  and  left 
these  dishonoured  ruins  to  hand  down  to  posterity  the  tale  of  his  crimes  and  of  his  fall.  We 
may  adopt,  though  in  another  sense,  his  own  presumptuous  motto—'  Sic  Fuit,  Fst,  et  Frit  J** 

Earl  Patrick  seems  to  have  had  a  chapel  in  his  pahice.  The  Earl  of  Caithness  reports : — 
"  Upon  the  29th  we  planted  our^battery  against  the  New  Wark,  and  ane  tower  thereof,  callit 
the  Chapel  Tower,  from  whence  they  sent  us  many  shots." 

Splendid  though  he  had  made  it.  Earl  Patrick's  enjoyment  of  his  palace  was  short-lived. 
Indeed,  although  it  was  built  by  an  earl,  the  Newark  in  the  Yards,  except  for  a  year  or  two, 
was,  during  its  brief  history,  the  abode  of  the  bishops. 

The  General  Assembly  of  1580  was  held  at  Dundee,  and  "  in  the  fourth  sessioun  the  office 
of  bishops  was  damned,  as  followeth  : — Forasmuche  as  the  office  of  a  bishop,  as  it  is  now  used, 
and  commounlie  taken  within  this  realme,  hath  no  sure  warrant,  authoritie,  nor  good  ground 

♦  Peterkin. 


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74  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

out  of  the  Booke  and  Scriptures  of  God,  but  brought  in  by  the  foUie  and  corruption  of  men's 
inventioun,  to  the  great  overthrow  of  the  true  Kirk  of  God,  the  whole  Assemblie  of  the  Kirk, 
in  one  voice,  after  libertie  given  to  all  men  to  reasoun  in  the  mater,  none  oppouning  them- 
selves in  defence  of  the  said  pretended  office,  used  and  termed,  as  is  above  said,  unlawfull  in 
the  self,  as  having  nather  fundament,  ground,  nor  warrant  in  the  Word  of  God  ;  and  ordeaneth 
that  all  such  persons  as  bruike,  or  hereafter  sail  bruike,  the  said  office,  to  be  charged  simpliciler 
to  dimitt,  quite,  and  leave  off  the  samine,  as  an  office  whereunto  they  are  not  called  by 
God."* 

In  1606,  James  VI.  so  managed  the  Scottish  Parliament  as  to  have  the  office  restored. 
"  His  Majestie,  with  expresse  advice  and  consent  of  the  saids  whole  estate  of  Parliament,  was 
careful  to  repone,  and  restore,  and  redintegrat  the  said  estat  of  bishops  to  their  ancient  and 
accustomed  honour,  digniteis,  prerogatives,  privileges,  livings,  lands,  tithes,  rents,  thrids,  and 
estate,  as  the  samine  was  in  the  reformed  Kirk,  most  amplie  and  free,  at  any  tyme  before  the 
Act  of  Annexatioun."  t 

But  while  an  Act  of  Parliament  had  abolished  the  rule  of  bishops  in  Scotland,  it  takes 
more  than  an  Act  of  Parliament  to  restore  that  rule.  Nearly  sixteen  hundred  years  before  the 
passing  of  the  above  Act,  the  Apostle  Peter  being  then,  as  is  said,  Bishop  of  Rome,  consecrated 
other  bishops,  laying  his  hands  on  them.  These  passed  the  apostle's  touch  on  to  others,  and 
thus  for  fifteen  hundred  years  the  bishops  of  the  Romish  Church  could  trace  their  conse- 
cration back  to  the  apostle.  At  the  Reformation,  apostolic  succession  still  continued  where 
Episcopacy  remained  the  form  of  church  government,  as  in  England. 

But,  in  Scotland,  prelacy  had  been  abolished  for  twenty-six  years,  and  now,  though 
bishops  were  nominated,  bishops  could  not  be  ordained.  In  all  the  land  there  was  no  one  who 
could  "  imprint  that  indefinable,  indelible  sanctity  of  character  which  is  communicated  by  the 
imposition  of  a  true  bishop's  hands." 

In  this  juncture,  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow  and  the  Bishops  of  Brechin  and  Galloway 
went  to  London  to  procure  the  ri vetting  of  the  broken  link  in  the  mystic  chain  of  apostolic 
succession. 

In  olden  times  the  English  primates  had  claimed  spiritual  supremacy  over  the  Scottish 
Church,  and  to  prevent  any  such  encroachment  on  our  national  independence,  the  paternal 
touch  of  Canterbury  or  of  York  was  dispensed  with,  and  the  fraternal  hands  of  the  Bishops  of 
London,  Ely,  Rochester,  and  Worcester  were  imposed  instead.  J 

This  ceremony  was  conducted  in  the  Bishop  of  London's  Palace  on  Sunday  the  twenty- 
first  day  of  October  1610. 

Isaac  Casaubon,  one  of  the  greatest  scholars  of  the  day,  a  native  of  Geneva,  but  at  that 
time,  by  invitation  of  the  king,  resident  in  England,  enters  the  event  in  his  diary  : — "  This 
Lord's  day,  by  God's  blessing,  was  not  ill  spent.  For  I  was  invited  to  be  present  at  the  con- 
secration of  two  bishops  and  an  archbishop  of  Scotland.  I  witnessed  that  ceremony,  and  the 
imposition  of  hands,  and  the  whole  service.  O  God,  how  great  was  my  delight !  Do  Thou,  O 
Lord  Jesus,  preserve  this  Church,  and  give  to  our  Puritans,  who  ridicule  such  things,  a  better 
mind.''  § 

The  three  consecrated  Scotsmen  were  then  sent  back  to  confer  the  like  privilege  upon 
their  expectant  brethren  at  home. 

But  by  this  time  Presbyterianism  had  taken  such  hold  in  Scotland  that  the  Episcopacy 
now  introduced  made  very  slight  change.  In  St.  Magnus  Cathedral,  the  Bishop  was  little 
more  than  minister  of  the  first  charge.    He  presided  at  meetings  of  the  Session,  which  con- 

*  Calderwood,  iii.  469.        t  Calderwood,  vi.  496.         %  Aikman,  iii.  333.        §  Calderwood,  vii.  161. 


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THE  earl's  palace.  75 

sisted  of  my  lord  bishop,  the  minister,  and  elders.  At  the  Sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper, 
which  was  taken  by  the  members  of  the  church  seated  at  tables,  the  bishop  and  minister 
served  alternately.    In  the  Session  records  we  do  not  read  of  any  confirmations. 

James  Law,  minister  of  Kirliston,  was  installed  Bishop  of  Orkney.  As  a  parish  minister 
he  had  shown  his  brethren  of  the  clergy  that  he  was  a  man  of  ability.  Once  and  again  the 
Qeneral  Assembly  had  placed  him  on  commissions  requiring  tact  and  courage. 

In  1589,  some  of  the  Catholic  nobility  in  the  north  rose  in  arms  against  the  king  and  in 
defence  of  the  ancient  church.  "  The  erles  Huntlie,  Crawfurd,  and  ErroU  came  from  Aber- 
deene  to  the  Bridge  of  Dee,  accompanied  with  three  thousand  men,  and  resolved  to  fight. 
The  king  was  skarse  accompanied  with  a  thousand,  yitt  feare  seazed  upon  the  most  part  of 
Huntlie's  factioun  when  they  heard  the  king  was  in  persoun  in  the  fields.  Huntlie  had  made 
manie  to  believe  that  he  had  a  commissioun  for  gathering  his  forces.  ErroU  would  have 
foughten  ;  Huntlie  feared.    Manie  of  the  barons  of  the  north  left  them."  * 

Mr  James  Law  was  appointed  one  of  the  commissioners  who  should  "  summon  before 
them  in  Edinburgh  the  erles,  lords,  barons,  freeholders,  and  speciall  trafliguers  and  counsellers 
to  the  said  noblemen." 

In  1600,  Law  was  named  as  one  of  those  who  should  "  give  advice  to  his  Majestie  in  all 
affaires  concerning  the  weale  of  the  Kirk."  This  placed  him  upon  terms  of  intimacy  with 
King  James. 

When  he  came  to  his  diocese,  the  new  bishop  found  the  palace  of  his  predecessors  a  ruin 
and  the  revenues  of  the  church  in  secular  hands.  But  he  speedily  brought  Earl  Patrick  to 
terms.  Their  first  recorded  arrangement  is  a  contract,  dated  21st  Jan.  1607,  by  which  Patrick 
Stewart  gives  Law  the  Newark  in  the  Yards,  and  binds  himself  to  make  "  the  said  house 
water  thight,  and  wind  thight,  and  commodiously  habitable,"  and  to  deliver  it  to  the  Bishop 
before  "  the  first  day  of  October  nixt  to  come." 

That  it  should  take  seven  months  to  make  this  new  house  "  commodiously  habitable," 
would  show  that  the  building  was  not  completed  till  1607,  though  the  Earl  had  occupied  a 
part  of  it  before  that  year. 

By  the  same  contract,  Law  resigned  to  Earl  Patrick  the  whole  bishopric  lands  and  rents 
in  Orkney  and  Zetland  for  an  annual  payment  of  four  thousand  merks. 

As  Bishop  of  Orkney,  Law  could  not  avoid  seeing  the  oppressions  of  the  islanders  under 
Earl  Patrick,  and  with  quiet  determination  he  set  himself  to  compass  the  punishment  of  the 
Earl  and  his  expulsion  from  Orkney.  He  accordingly  collected,  noted,  and  arranged  for' 
production,  when  necessary.  Earl  Patrick's  acts  of  iiyustice.  In  November  1608,  he  presented 
to  the  king  his  "most  humble  and  serious  supplication  in  favor  of  this  distressed  and 
oppressed  people."  t 

This  led  to  enquiries,  followed  by  the  Earl's  summons  to  Edinburgh  in  1610,  and  his 
execution  in  1614. 

The  earldom  and  bishopric  had  hitherto  been  so  mixed  as  to  cause  confusion  at  times, 
but  when  the  king  confiscated  Earl  Patrick's  estate,  Law  gave  up  to  the  Crown  the  old 
bishopric  lands.  As  an  equivalent  for  these,  the  King  granted  the  Bishop,  for  himself  and  his 
successors  in  office,  the  parishes  of  Holm,  Orphir,  Stromness,  Sandwick,  Shapinsay,  Walls, 
Hoy,  and  the  half  of  St.  Ola. 

This  was  to  guarantee  the  bishops  an  annual  income  of  8000  merks.  If  the  revenue 
exceeded  or  came  short  of  that  sum,  the  bishop  or  the  exchequer  made  good  the  difference. 

"The  bischop  of  Orknay,  be  his  factors,  sail  haife  his  power  to  resave,  intromitt,  and 
uplift  fra  the  tennentis  of  the  grund,  the  haill  rentis,  dewties,  fermes,  tynds,  customes  dew  for 
•  Calderwood,  v.  65.  t  Pet.  Notes,  App.,  69. 


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76  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

any  pairt  of  the  landis  and  rowmes  laying  within  the  haill  parisches  of  Holme,  etc.,  and  he  is 
to  pay  the  difference,  if  any,  betwixt  the  sum  received  and  the  sum  of  8000  merks ;  and 
should  the  rental  fall  short,  at  the  rates  of  i>ayment  therein  mentioned,  he  is  to  get  the 
deficiency  made  ui)."  * 

But  Law's  administrative  genius  did  not  limit  itself  to  ecclesiastical  matters. 

The  Stewart  earls  had  abolished  the  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall.  In  1611,  when  Earl 
Patrick  was  a  prisoner  in  Edinburgh,  "his  Majesty  directit  and  appointit  the  Reverend 
Fadder  in  God,  James,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  to  repair  to  the  aaidis  bounds,  and  hes  establishit 
him  with  full  power,  commissioun,  and  authority  to  take  trial  and  notice  of  the  griefs  of  the 
saidis  poor  peoi)le,  charging  all  and  sundry,  his  Majesty's  lieges  and  subjects  within  the  bounds 
of  Orknay  and  Zetland,  to  reverence,  acknowledge,  and  obey  the  said  Bishoi)."t 

Accordingly,  by  virtue  of  his  commission,  "  he  elected  and  api)ointed  the  bailies  of  the 
town  from  a  leet  given  in  by  the  inhabitants."  J 

It  was  fortunate  that  Law  was  in  Kirkwall  at  the  time  of  Robert  Stewart's  little  rebellion, 
1614. 

"  The  steiple  of  the  church  of  Kirkway  was  first  besieged,  which  after  a  little  time  was 
yielded  ;  then  the  Earl  of  Cathyness  went  about  to  demolish  and  throw  doun  the  church  ;  but 
he  was  with  great  difficultie  hindered  by  the  Bishope  of  Orknay,  who  wold  not  suffer  him  to 
throw  it  down."S 

Having  placed  Church  and  Council  once  more  upon  a  secure  footing,  this  astute  prelate 
left  Orkney  to  become  Archbishoj)  of  Glasgow. 

But  while  Law  and  a  few  others  could  well  uphold  the  Episcopal  status,  the  position  of 
the  Scottish  bishops  at  this  time  was  not  one  of  dignity. 

At  a  convention  in  Linlithgow,  1606,  held  by  desire  of  the  king,  among  other  business, 
their  place  in  the  mongrel  form  of  government  under  which  the  Church  had  fallen  was  laid 
down  by  the  bishops  themselves  :— "  Siclyke,  the  whole  bishops  declared,  that  it  was  not  their 
intention  to  usurpe  and  exercise  anie  tyrannous  or  unlavtrfull  jurisdiction  or  power  over  the 
brethrein,  nor  to  engyi-e  themselves  anie  wise  unlawfuUie  in  the  kirk's  government,  or  anie 
part  thereof,  farther  nor  sould  be  committed  to  them  by  the  presbyteries,  provinciall  synods, 
and  General!  Assemblies.  And  if  it  sould  happen  to  fall  out  that  they,  or  any  of  them,  sould 
be  found  to  do  in  the  contrare,  then,  and  in  that  cace,  they  were  content  to  submitt  them- 
selves to  the  censures  of  the  Kirk  as  humblie  as  anie  other  of  their  brethrein  of  the 
ministrie."|| 

"  About  the  end  of  December,  the  Abbot  of  Halyrudhous  and  Mr  James  Law,  Bishop  of 
Orkney,  were  sent  to  the  King  with  the  proceedings  of  the  Linlithquo  convention  sett  down 
in  writt.  The  King  was  not  content  that  the  bishops  were  not  freed  from  the  presbyteries 
and  sett  over  the  provinciall  Synods. 

"  The  Abbot  layed  all  the  blame  upon  the  bishops,  who  de  novo  had  voluntarlie  submitted 
themselves  to  the  jiresbyteries.    Mr  Law  was  sharpelie  rebooked  by  the  King."  If 

Law  was  succeeded  in  Orkney  by  George  Graham,  Bishop  of  Dunblane.  * 

*  Pet.  Rent.,  1614,  p.  149.  t  Pet.  Notes,  App.,  66.         X  In  1612,  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  42. 
§  Pet.  Notes,  App.,  57.  II  Calderwood,  vi.  616.  IF  Calderwood,  vi.  629. 

*  "  Graham  was  of  the  family  of  Inchbrakie,  in  Perthshire.  The  Grahams  are  of  Anglo-Norman 
origin,  and  settled  in  Scotland  dnring  the  twelfth  centuiy.  Monkish  writers,  however,  assert  that 
they  can  trace  their  descent  back  to  Graeme,  who  is  said  to  have  commanded  the  army  of  Fergus  U. 
in  404,  was  governor  of  the  kingdom  in  the  minority  of  Eugene,  and  who  in  420  made  a  breach  in  the 
wall  which  the  Emperor  Severus  had  erected  between  the  Forth  and  the  Clyde,  and  which  derived 
from  the  Scottish  warrior  the  name  of  Graeme's  Dyke.*' — Dr  Taylor,  author  of  **  Pictorial  History  of 
Scotland."      Graham  is  very  probably  the  Norse  name  Grim,   which  we  have  in  Grimsby  and 


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THE   EARL*S   PALACE.  77 

George  Graham  was  born  about  1565.  He  took  his  degree  at  St.  Andrews,  1587.  His 
first  ministerial  charge  was  Cluny,  1590,  from  which  he  was  translated  to  Auchtergaven,  1595. 
Four  years  later  he  became  minister  of  Scone  ;  in  1606,  he  was  made  Bishop  of  Dunblane  ; 
and,  24th  August  1615,  got  the  See  of  Orkney. 

It  is  interesting,  in  this  time  of  transition,  to  notice  how  the  utterances  of  some  of  the 
clergy  were  rendered  absurdly  anomalous  by  unforeseen  changes  of  circumstances. 

In  1604,  at  the  Synod  of  Fife,  Mr  George  Graham,  then  minister  of  Scone,  said  : — "  I 
would  he  were  hanged  above  all  thieves,  that  presseth  not  to  the  uttermost  to  keep  out  of  the 
Kirk  the  corruptions,  pride,  and  tyranny  of  bishops  "  ;  and  two  years  later  he  was  Bishop  of 
Dunblane.  Mr  Adam  Bannatyne,  minister  of  Falkirk,  perhaps  in  surprise  at  his  accepting 
this  bishopric,  said  : — "  Mr  George  Graham,  the  excrement  of  bishops,  has  licked  up  the 
excrement  of  bishoprics."  Yet,  when  the  Bishop  of  Dunblane  was  translated  to  Orkney,  Mr 
Adam  Bannatyne  was  very  glad  to  "  lick  up  "  the  vacant  benefice. 

Law  had  received  the  Earl's  Palace  from  its  builder  by  private  contract,  but  in  his 
successor's  time  an  Act  of  Exchequer  made  it  the  Bishop's  Palace.  There  is  a  lease  of  "  the 
erledom  of  Orknay  and  Lordschip  of  Zetland,  of  the  dait  the  fyftein  day  of  May,  the  yeir  of 
God,  Im  vie  and  twentie-twa  yeiris,  registrat  in  the  buikis  of  Exchecker  the  samyn  day  and 
yeii*  foirsaid,  quhairintill  the  reservatioun  following  is  sj)eciallie  contenit,  viz. : — Reserveing 
alwayes  f  urth  of  the  said  tak  to  the  Bischope  of  Orknay  and  his  successors  the  landis  and 
teyndis  assignit  to  him,  with  the  houses,  manor- place,  and  biggings  callit  the  Yardis,  to  be 
bruikit,  joissit,  and  used  be  the  Bischopes  present  and  to  cum  yeirlie  at  thair  pleasour."  * 

Graham  got  possession  in  1615,  and  concerning  its  condition  then,  he  says  : — "  Quhen  I 
receivit  the  bishopric,  I  receivit  the  house,  'with  some  guid  plenishing  of  beds  and  buirds,  sick 
as  the  Earle  hade." 

Bishop  Graham  kept  a  garrison  in  the  Palace  : — "  Before  the  Generall  Assemblie  at 
Glasgow,  I  keipit  it  with  a  companie  as  a  non-covenantar,  and,  efter  that,  from  non-cove- 
nan  tars." 

This  Bishop  put  up  the  first  fixed  i)rivate  seat  in  the  Cathedral.  Sensible  of  the  require- 
ments of  prelatical  dignity,  he  erected  a  gallery  for  his  family  in  the  south-east  corner  of  the 
choir,  and  adorned  the  front  of  it  with  carved  work. 

In  1638,  Episcopacy  was  again  disestablished,  and  Graham,  no  longer  bishop,  gave  up  his 
house.  "  I  dely  verit  it  againe,  according  to  the  inventar  I  receivit  it  by,  in  omnibus  to  Robert 
Tullo,  upon  a  charge  of  the  committee.  I  left  it  in  better  order  than  he  receivit  it,  but  now  I 
heare  it  is  both  ruinated  by  the  wether,  and  not  weill  used  be  him,  qrof  ye  will  pardone  me  to 
be  sorrie,  for  I  was  more  than  carefull  both  of  the  kirk  and  that  house."  t 

With  regard  to  the  last  statement,  it  is  explained  that  "  for  ye  fabrick  of  the  Kirk  the 
Bishop  upheld  the  quierj  and  the  Bishop's  dwelling-plaice,  and  ther  is  ane  act  off  Parliament 
in  anno  1633  for  upholding  off  the  bodie  off  ye  Kirk." 

Robert  TuUoch  of  Langskaill,  who  got  the  keeping  of  the  Palace,  tried  to  carry  matters 
with  a  high  hand.  "  The  kirk-officer  complained  upon  Robert  Tullo  of  Langskill  for  offering 
to  strik  him  with  a  quhinger  becaus  he  was  taking  out  two  of  his  horses  this  morning  out  of 

in  Grsemsav.     If  so,  Grim  had  been  one  of  the  followers  of  Rolf  the  Ganger,  who  conquered  Nor- 
mandy, and  a  descendant  of  his  had  come  to  England  with  William  the  Conqueror. 
♦  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  104.  t  Pet.  Rent. 

X  Bishop  Graham  not  only  upheld  the  place  of  worship,  but  he  was  generous  to  the  oongregation. 
He  gave  them  two  communion  cups  (see  ante,  p.  34).  The  date,  1636,  on  one  of  the  collection 
plates,  has  given  rise  to  the  tradition  that  the  two  were  presented  by  him.  Apart  from  the  im- 
probability of  the  Bishop  ordering  a  plate  with  a  Dutch  inscription,  the  Session  Records,  as  has 
been  seen,  give  them  a  different  history. 


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78  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

the  kirk  yard  to  put  them  in  poynd."    But  Robert  "  refused  that  he  offered  any  violence  to 
the  kirk-officer,  but  only  to  cut  the  horse  halters." 

At  the  change  from  prelacy  to  presbytery,  in  1638,  Bishop  Graham  complains  : — 
"  Altho  I  was  not  plundered,  yitt  my  house  was  evil  pycked  by  these  that  had  the  charge  of 
the  keeping  of  it."  * 

Concerning  the  same,  Barry,  quoting  Keith,  says  : — "The  General  Assembly  met  at 
Glasgow,  and,  with  rigour  unsuitable  to  their  office  as  ministers  of  a  meek  and  benevolent 
Master,  not  only  set  aside,  but  excommunicated  the  episcopal  order  without  mercy.  This 
prelate,  afraid  of  sharing  the  same  fate,  and  dreading  the  i)enal  consequences,  resigned  his 
office,  which  he  declared  to  be  unlawful,  and  that  he  was  unfeignedly  grieved  at  having  held 
such  an  office  so  long  in  the  church."  On  account  of  this  submission,  whether  proceeding  from 
conviction  or  from  motives  of  prudence,  he  was  only  deiKxsed  by  the  Assembly,  and  "  thereby 
saved  his  estate  and  money  on  bond,  which  would  have  been  all  forfeited  had  he,  like  any  of 
the  rest  of  his  order,  undergone  excommunication." 

George  Graham,  as  a  private  gentleman,  lived  at  Skaill,  in  Sandwick,  but  he  was  still  a 
busy  man.  He  had  acquired  wealth  in  spite  of  the  hampering  bargain  which  his  predecessors 
made  with  the  King,  and  which  placed  the  later  bishojw  at  such  a  disadvantage  comjwired 
with  the  former  prelates.  He  states,  in  answer  to  a  question  put  by  the  Magistrates  of 
Edinburgh  : — "  Understand  that  the  old  Bishopric  of  Orkney  was  a  gi*eate  thing,  and  lay 
sparsim  throWt  the  haill  parochines  of  Orkney  and  Shetland.  Besyde  his  lands,  he  had  the 
teynds  of  auchtene  kirks.  His  lands  grew  daylie,  as  adulteries  and  incests  increased  in  the 
country."  + 

Although  Graham's  lands  did  not  grow  "  daylie  "  through  ecclesiastical  mulcts,  there  is  a 
tradition  in  the  Melsetter  family  that  the  Bishop  acquired  Breckness  in  some  such  manner. 

Captain  James  Moodie,  writing  to  his  uncle.  Captain  James  Moodie,  Stewart  of  Burray's 
victim,  says  : — "  William  Moodie,  in  anno  1563,  entailed  his  estate  ujwn  his  son,  Adam,  and 
his  airs,  to  return  to  Gilbert  Moodie,  Brother  German  to  the  said  William,  which  failing,  to 
his  nearest  airs  male  bearing  the  surname  and  arms  of  Moodie." 

"  Yrafter,  Francis,  in  anno  1628,  grants  several  bonds  \i\>on  the  lands  of  Breckness  for  the 
behoove  of  George  Graham,  then  Bishop  of  Orkney,  but  the  Bishop  not  being  willing  to 
appear,  the  bonds  were  in  the  name  of  another  i)erson." 

After  stating  that  the  reversion  of  these  lands  was  secured  to  Marion  Crichton,  wife  of 
the  Bishop,  and  his  son,  John  Graham,  he  concludes  : — "  The  truth  of  the  matter  is,  Francis 
Moodie  was  too  great  a  libertine  and  kept  more  concubines  than  was  convenient,  for  which 
Bishop  Graham  of  Orkney  did  summon  him  to  appear  before  him,  but  he  not  obeying,  the 
Bishop  threatened  church  censure.  Francis,  being  willing  to  preserve  his  pleasure,  and  well 
knowing  the  Bishop,  it  seems,  made  an  offer  of  agreement  which  was  pleasing  to  the  Bishop, 
for  the  Reverend  Prelate,  like  a  good  Pastor,  willing  to  bear  with  infirmities,  allowed  Francis 
to  continue  in  the  peaceable  possession  of  his  sins,  in  lieu  of  which  the  Bishop  possessed  part 
of  his  Estate.  The  whole  of  which  was  transacted  so  clandestinely  as  gives  just  reason  to 
everybody  to  blame  the  Bishop.  The  truth  is,  Francis  Moodie  never  received  money  or  good 
deed  either  from  the  Bishop  or  any  body  else  for  these  lands." 

Bishop  Graham,  like  every  other  moneyed  man  in  Orkney  at  that  time,  put  out  his  coin 
to  usury,  and  Francis  Moodie  was  a  persistent  borrower.  In  the  year  above  mentioned,  1628, 
Moodie's  affairs  had  got  so  desperate,  that  his  wife,  Marion  Tulloch,  widow  of  Arthur  Sinclair, 
merchant,  gave  up  to  her  husband's  creditors  her  life-rent  of  lands  in  Deerness,  St.  Andrews, 
Holm,  Stenness,  and  South  Ronaldshay,  with  her  house  in  Kirkwall.J 

*  Pet.  Rent.,  p.  259.  t  Pet.  Rent.,  Bpric,  21.  J  Sheriff  Court  Registers. 


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THE  earl's  palace.  79 

The  first  bond  over  Breckness,  as  James  Moodie  showed,  was  in  1628,  and  this  did  not 
conclude  the  money  transactions  between  Moodie  and  Graham.  On  the  25th  January  1634, 
Francis  Moodie  of  Melsetter  borrowed  from  the  Bishop  £400  Scots,  granting  bonds  over  some 
part  of  his  remaining  property.  Regarding  this  : — "  James  Moodie,  Fiar  of  Breckness,  being 
now  (20th  April  1636)  of  21  years,  remembering  that  in  the  time  of  my  Minority  there  were 
diverse  Bands  and  Obligations  maed  by  me  to  ane  Father  in  God,  George,  Bischope  of 
Orkney  and  Zetland,  by  Francis  Moodie,  my  Father,  as  Principal,  and  me  as  Cautioner,  for 
£400  Scots,  of  date  25th  day  of  January  1634 — Revokes  the  same  at  Kirkwall.  Witnesses — 
Thomas  Mayne,  Merchant  Burgess  of  Kirkwall ;  Abraham  Stevenson,  indweller  there ; 
Thomas  Auchinleck,  and  Francis  Auchinleck,  his  son." 

This  revocation  on  the  part  of  young  Moodie  was  of  no  avails  for  within  a  year  afterwards 
Breckness  was  in  possession  and  occupation  of  the  Bishop.  "  George,  by  the  mercie  of  God, 
Bischop  of  Orknay  and  Zetland,  grants  discharge  to  Patrick  Stewart  of  Gyre  for  arrears  of 
Duties  on  his  Lands  of  Gyre."  "Witnesses  at  Breckness— David  Graham  of  Gorthie; 
John  Graham,  my  youngest  lawful  son  ;  Mr  George  Graham,  Minister  of  Sand  wick  and 
Stromness  ;  and  Mr  Patrick  Graham,  Br.  German  to  George  Graham  of  Drynie ;  and 
Lawrence  Graham,  son  lawfl.  to  Laurence  Graham  of  Callandair,  my  ser\dtor,"  *  22nd  July 
1637.  t 

The  most  distinguished  in  this  the  senior  line  of  the  Orkney  Graemes  were  perhaps 
Sheriff  Graeme  and  Captain  Alexander  Graeme,  of  the  "  Preston,"  afterwards  Admiral  Gramme. 

The  Bishop's  wife,  Marion  Crichton,  died  1632,  and  was  buried  in  St.  Magnus  Cathedral 
He  followed,  1647.    They  left  four  sons  and  three  daughters. 

David,  the  eldest  son,  had  the  estate  of  Gorthie,  near  Crieff ;  Mungo  died  without  issue, 
1645,  and  left  his  property  to  his  brother,  Patrick.  This  Patrick,  the  third  son,  took  his 
degree  at  St.  Andrews,  1630.  When  he  had  finished  his  divinity  curriculum,  his  father  set 
aside  all  Presbytery  trials,  and  at  once  caused  him  to  preach  in  public.  +  He  was  appointed 
minister  of  Holm,  1635,  and  was  deposed  by  the  Assembly,  1649,  for  his  sympathy  with 
Montrose.  In  his  retirement,  Mr  Patrick  Graham  of  Rothiesholm  did  a  large  money  business, 
and  became  very  wealthy.  Besides  his  property  in  Stronsay,  he  had  Papdale,  in  St  Ola,  lands 
in  Sandwick,  and  two  farms  in  Shapinsay.  These  had  all  been  church  lands,  and  the  Bishop, 
in  granting  the  feus,  did  not  at  once  convey  them  to  his  son.  "  There  is  fewed  yairof,  be  ye 
lait  Bischop,  to  ye  said  Williame  Sincler  of  Sabay,  the  lands  of  Burwick,  Torwall,  and 
Soulsetter,  qlk  were  of  old  udal  lands,  pay  and  conform  the  rental,  qlk  ar  now  in  ye  hands  of 
Mr  Patrick  Graharae  of  Rothiesholme." 

After  the  death  of  Patrick  Smythe  of  Braco,  Mr  Graham  of  Rothiesholm  bought  from 
Patrick  Smythe,  merchant,  Edinburgh,  his  father's  extensive  property  in  Holm,  and  changed 
Meall,  the  name  of  Braco's  house,  into  Graemeshall.  He  married,  first,  Annas  Stewart,  and 
had  six  daughters,  and,  second,  Margaret  Sinclair,  who  survived  him.§ 

"  Mr  Patrick  Graham  of  Graemeshall  died  about  the  same  time  of  night  (midnight),  and 
was  interred  in  the  tomb  of  the  Kirk  of  St.  John,  21  Jan."  || 

Feb.  25, 1681,  "  Margaret  Sinclair,  relict  of  Mr  Patrick  Grahame  of  Graemeshall,  depd.  this 
life." 

John  Graham,  the  youngest  son,  got  Breckness,  but  in  Sandwick  "  Thair  is  fewed  yairof, 

be  ye  lait  Bischop,  to  ye  foresaid  Patrick  Smith,  the  lands  of  Southerquoy,  comprehending 

*  Sheriff  Court  Books, 
t  If  Bishop  Graham  did  not  rebuild  the  house  of  Breckness,  he  added  to  it,  and  a  stone,  carved 
with  his  arms  and  placed  over  the  main  entrance,  was  removed  to  Skaill  by  the  present  proprietor, 
William  G.  T.  Watt,  Esq. 

X  Fasti.  §  Fasti.  ||  T.  B.,  Jan.  1675. 


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80  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

Skell  and  Gome  ;  the  lands  of  South  Uiiigar,  and  fyve  farthing  land  in  Aithstoun,  with  ye 
hill  of  Kiriia  and  links  yrof,  with  the  heritable  bailliarie  of  ye  haill  parochen  of  Sandwick,  for 
payment,  conforme  to  ye  rentall ;  qlk  lands  are  now  in  ye  possession  of  Johne  Graham  of 
Breckness." 

In  Stromness,  "  Thair  \&-  fewed  yrof,  be  ye  forsaid  lait  Bischop,  to  the  forsaid  Patrick 
Smith,  30  pennye  land  in  Utter  Stromness,  twe  pennye  land  and  ane  halfe  in  Inner  Stromness, 
and  ane  pennye  land  and  ane  halfe  in  Quhome  :  qulk  lands  are  all  now  in  ye  possessioune  of 
Jon  Grahme  of  Breckness." 

John  Graham  of  Breckness  married  Margaret,  daughter  of  James  Stewart  of  Grasmsay, 
and  their  son,  Harry,  was  perhaps  the  most  prominent  public  man  in  Orkney  in  his  day.  He 
represented  Orkney  and  Zetland  in  the  Scottish  Parliament,  1685-6.  He  built  or  enlarged  the 
house  of  Skaill,  and  over  the  door,  beside  his  monogram,  he  carved  the  lines — 

"  Weak  things  grow  strong  by  Unitie  and  Love, 
By  discord,  strong  things  weak  and  weaker  prove." 

He  married  Euphan,  daughter  of  Bishop  Honyman. 

Long  after  Bishop  Graham's  death,  his  leases  gave  trouble  to  the  church.  At  the  Synod, 
20th  Nov.  1662,  "  Compeired  the  Laird  of  Halcrow,  and  produced  ane  take  of  the  vicarage 
teinds  of  the  He  of  Walles,  subscryved  by  the  Bischope  of  Orkney,  and  his  seale  appended 
yrto,  desyreing  like  way  es  the  said  take  to  be  subscryved  by  the  Deane  and  Chapt.  Qlk  the 
Chapt.  refused  to  doe,  in  respect  yt  yr  is  fourscoir  merks  scotes  money  belonging  to  the 
stipend,  and  provision  of  the  Kirk  of  Walles  and  the  ministers  serving  the  cure  yrat." 

At  the  same  meeting,  "Compeired"  William  Monteith  of  Belelly,  as  representing  the 
heirs  of  Patrick  Monteith  of  Egilshay,  "and  produced  ane  take  of  the  vicarage  teinds  of 
the  Isle  of  flotta,  and  oyr  vicarage  teinds  yrin  contained,  the  said  take  subscryved  by  the 
Bischope  of  Orkney,  and  his  seale  appended  yrto,  and  desyred  that  this  said  take  might  be 
subscryved  by  the  Deane  and  Chapt.,  as  aforesaid.  Qlk  they  refused  to  doe,"  for  a  similar 
reason. 

Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound  made  a  like  request  regarding  the  "  teinds  of  Papla,"  but  "  the 
Bishop*  had  given  an  express  countermand,  aye,  and  whyle  Patrick  Smyth  of  Bracco,  heritore 
of  the  saids  lands,  and  the  said  Arthure  Buchannane  of  Sound,  were  Iiard  before  himself." 

"  Compeired  Archibald  Stewart  of  Burray,  and  produced  ane  precept  of  Clare  Constate, 
subscryved  by  the  Bishop."  On  this  occasion,  the  Dean,  Mr  Edward  Richardson,  as  minister 
of  South  Bonaldshay  and  Burray,  protested,  on  behalf  of  himself  and  his  successors,  that  the 
subscribing  of  the  precept  might  not  prejudice  their  rights  in  "  Lands  of  Leith,  and  houses 
belonging  yrto,  comonly  called  the  Provest's  lands." 

Captain  Robert  Stewart  of  Eday  had  a  lease  of  the  teinds  of  Ireland  and  of  Orphir,  which 
the  Dean  and  Chapter  refused  to  sign,  as  injurious  to  the  interests  of  the  parish  ministers. 

After  Graham's  demission,  there  was  a  brief  revival  of  Episcopacy,  and,  in  1639,  Robert 
Baron,  Professor  of  Divinity  in  Marischal  College,  Aberdeen,  was  appointed  Bishop  of  Orkney, 
an  honour  which  so  alarmed  the  good  man  that  he  fled  the  country,  and  died  at  Berwick 
without  consecration.t 

As  has  been  seen,  the  keeping  of  the  Earl's  Palace  was  for  a  time  committed  to  Robert 
Tulloch,  and  it  was  "  not  weill  used  by  him," 

In  1641,  a  tack  of  the  lands  and  revenues  of  the  bishopric  was  granted  by  Charles  I.  to 
Robert  Leslie,  brother  of  Lord  Lindores,  with  the  right  "to  bruik  and  enjoy  the  haile 
Castles,  Riggings,  Yards,  etc.,  whereof  the  late  Bishop  of  Orkney  was  in  possession." 

*  SydserflF.  t  Fasti. 


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THE   earl's  palace.  81 

In  1643,  the  earldom  was  granted  to  Lord  Morton  for  a  fictitious  debt  of  £30,000  stg.  In 
this  grant  it  was  insisted  that  the  infeftment  should  **  no  ways  be  extended  to  any  Lands, 
teinds,  or  any  other  whatsomever,  belonging  to  the  late  Bishopric  of  Orkney  at  the  late 
abolition." 

Meanwhile  the  revenues  of  the  bishopric  had  been  assigned  by  Leslie  to  the  Magistrates 
of  Edinburgh,  who  now  got  a  tack  of  the  earldom  rents  from  Morton,  and  thus  the  Town 
Council  of  that  city  had  the  whole  county  in  their  possession. 

In  1647,  Morton  got  a  lease  for  nineteen  years  of  the  EarFs  Palace  from  the  Edinburgh 
Magistrates  at  a  nominal  rent  of  thirty-three  shillings  and  fourpence  Scots  yearly."*^  Here 
Morton  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Robert,  as  tenant  of  the  Palace. 

To  this  palace,  Robert  Douglas,  Earl  of  Morton,  invited  that  glorious  rebel,  the  Marquis 
of  Montrose,  when  he  was  about  to  make  his  final  effort  on  behalf  of  the  Stuarts. 

Some  200  men  were  sent  over  from  Holland  under  command  of  the  Earl  of  KinnouL 
In  Kirkwall,  Morton  naturally  regiirded  himself  as  supreme,  an  assumption  which  Kinnoul 
refused  to  admit.  A  seriims  rupture  might  have  resulted,  but  both  earls  died  within  a  few 
days  of  each  other,  in  November  1649.  Early  the  following  year,  Montrose  came  over  and 
spent  a  month  in  preparation,  during  which  time  he  occupied  the  EarFs  Palace.t  Then, 
having  secured  most  of  the  boats  to  be  found  in  the  islands,  he  embarked  at  Holm,  carrying 
with  him  2000  men  across  the  Pentland  Firth.  Very  few  of  the  gentlemen  of  Orkney  joined 
Montrose.  Smith  of  Braco,  writing  to  his  son,  mentions  Stewart  of  Burray,  Mr  Patrick 
Graham  of  Qnemeshall,  John  Graham  of  Breckness,  George  Smyth  of  Rapness,  Hew  Halcro 
of  that  ilk,  George  Dnimmond  of  Blair,  and  Patrick  Monteith  of  Egilshay,  as  friends  who, 
along  with  himself,  had  submitted  to  CroniweH's  rule.  He  wants  the  earliest  information  of 
the  appearance  of  a  change  in  the  Government,  ''  for  I  desyre  nather  to  be  first  nor  last  in 
taking  cours." 

Bishop  Graham's  eldest  son,  David,  is  not  in  the  above  list,  as  he  resided  on  his  estate  of 
Gorthie,  in  Perthshire.  Total  disaster  overtook  Montrose.  At  C^orbiesdale,  near  Invershin,  his 
little  army  was  cut  to  pieces,  and  he  found  himself  a  fugitive  in  the  wilds  of  Sutherlandsbire. 
Macleod  of  Assynt,  a  former  friend,  found  him  in  a  state  of  starvation,  and  sold  him  to  the 
Covenanters  for  400  bolls  of  meal.    He  was,  of  course,  condemned  to  death.]: 

As  part  of  the.seBtenee,  hie ^head,->" affixed oo  an  iroxi  pin,  wa^  to  be  set  up  on  the  west 
gavel  of  the  new  prison  of  Edinburgh,  one  hand  to  be  set  on  the  port  of  Perth,  the  other  on 
the  port  of  Stirling ;  one  leg  and  foot  on  the  port  of  Aberdeen,  and  the  other  on  the  port  of 
Glasgow  ;  the  trunk  of  the  body  to  be  interred  in  the  Boroughmuir,  by  the  hangmen's  men, 
under  the  gallows." 

When  Montrose  heard  his  sentence  read,  he  replied  :— '^  I  am  beholden  to  you  that,  lest 
my  loyalty  should  be  forgotten,  ye  have  appointed  five  of  your  most  eminent  towns  to  bear 
witness  of  it  to  posterity."  § 

*'  There  is  a  chamber  far  away, 

Where  sleep  the  good  and  brave  ; 
But  a  better  place  ye  have  named  for  me 

Than  by  my  father's  yiave. 
For  truth  and  rlsht,  'gainst  treason's  might, 

This  hand  hath  always  striven  ; 
And  ye  raise  it  for  a  witness  still 

In  the  eye  of  earth  and  heaven. 
Then  nail  my  head  on  yonder  tower, 

*  Pet.  Notes,  61.  +  Pet.  Notes,  52. 

X  Napier's  Life  of  Montrose.  §  Wigton  Papers,  quoted  by  Ayton. 


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82  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

Give  every  town  a  lirab, 
And  God  who  made  shall  gather  them  : 
I  go  from  you  to  Him  !" 

When  the  Restoration  made  it  possible  to  collect  these  fragments  and  bury  them  in  St. 
Giles  Church,  in  Edinburgh,  there  was  a  great  muster  of  the  Graham  clan,  and  Mungo  of 
Gorthie,  our  Bishop's  grandson,  carried  the  head,  still  fixed  on  its  "  iron  pin  " — a  fact  which  has 
received  heraldic  record  in  the  Gorthie  arms. 

The  clergy  of  Orkney  were  enthusiastic  Royalists.  They  deputed  James  Atkine,  minister 
of  Harray  and  Birsay,  to  draw  up  a  letter,  addressed  to  Montrose,  expressing  their  loyalty.  For 
this  they  were  all  deposed,  and  Atkine  was  excommunicated.  There  were,  however,  two 
exceptions — James  Morrison,  of  Evie  and  Rendall  ;  and  Patrick  Waterstoun,  of  Stronsay  and 
Eday.  When  the  Restoration  came,  the  deposed  ministers  were  reinstated,  and  were  in  a 
position  to  vent  their  spleen  on  the  Cromwellians.  In  November  1662,  "  In  presence  of  the 
Synod,  Mr  James  Moreson,  minister  at  Evie  and  Rendall,  appoynted  to  appeare  bef(»re  the 
Deane  and  his  assessors,  eft  the  dissolving  of  the  efternoone*8  dyet  at  the  Deane's  chamber, 
thair  to  give  in  his  ansrs  to  this  Queries,  qlk  ar  to  be  layed  to  his  charge,  relaiting  to  his  going 
forth  of  the  place  in  the  tyme  of  Montrose,  his  coming  into  Orkney,  according  to  the  eight 
article  subscryved  by  the  Bp.  of  Orkney,*  for  his  tryall  yranent.  The  said  Mr  James,  appear- 
ing, reseaved  all  the  charges,  and  did  returne  his  ansrs  yrto  in  wrett,  and  subscryved  under 
his  owen  hands.  All  qlks  wer  sent  to  the  Bp."  After  examination,  the  Bishop's  finding  was 
that,  "if  yr  wer  no  further  informatione,  he  might  continew  his  ministrie  upon  good  behavior." 

But  there  was  further  information.  '*  Thair  wes  produced  ane  Act  of  Parlt.  in  flavors  of 
Mr  James  Moresone  and  Mr  Patrick  Waterstoune,  appoynting  to  them  the  sowme  of  ten 
thousand  merkes  Scotes  for  the  causes  contained  in  the  said  act.  The  tenor  qroff  followes  : — 
At  Edr.,  the  twentie-nine  day  of  May,  sixteen  hundred  and  ffyftie  yeirs.  The  estaites  of 
parliament  now  publiclie  convened  in  this  flFyft  sessione  of  this  sacond  trienniall  parlt.  Taking 
to  yr  consideration  the  supplicatione  given  in  to  them  by  Mr  James  Moresone  and  Mr  Patrick 
Waterstoune,  distressed  ministers  of  Orkney,  hubly.  schowing,  That,  qras  the  honorable 
Comissione  of  the  General  Assembly,  taking  to  consideratione  the  excessive  charges  and 
expenses  the  saids  supplicants  have  beene  put  to  by  the  Presb.  of  Orkney,  ever  since  the  entrie 
of  the  Reformatione,  for  speaking  in  defence  of  the  treuth  and  discovery  of  the  enemyes' 
concerns  from  tyme  to  tyme,  hath  modefyed  unto  the  saids  supplicants  as  eft  is  devysed,  viz. : 
— To  the  said  Mr  James  Moresone,  the  sowme  of  sex  thousand  mks.,  and  to  the  said  Mr 
Patrick  Waterstoune,  the  sowme  of  ffoure  thousand  mks.  money,  to  be  payed  to  them  out  of  the 
stipends  vacant  within  that  presbytrie,  without  prejudice  alwayes  to  the  plantation  of  Kirks 
yr."t 

A  "perfyte  and  just  double"  of  this  Act  was  sent  to  the  Bishop,  but  Morrison  kept  his 
pulpit  till  he  was  deposed  for  social  oflFences  three  years  after  Sydserffs  death, 

Waterstoun  was  a  man  of  more  pronounced  character  than  Morrison.  When  Charles  II. 
came  to  the  throne,  the  minister  of  Stronsay  lifted  up  his  voice  and  denounced  the  King  and 
his  ancestors.  For  this  he  was  imprisoned  in  Kirkwall,  but  his  offence  was  too  heinous  for 
local  judgment,  and  he  was  sent  to  Edinburgh,  being  passed  on  "from  Sheriff  to  Sheriff,"  till 
he  reached  the  capital.    lie  afterwards  went  to  Holland,  and  died  there,  1662. 

Atkine,  the  writer  of  the  letter  to  Montrose,  had  fled  to  Holland  to  escape  the  wrath  of 
Cromwell,  but  at  the  Restoration,  he  got  from  the  Exchequer  £100  stg.  on  account  of  his 
sufferings,  was  made  rector  of  Winifrith,  iu  the  see  of  Winchester,  and  in  1667  was  consecrated 
Bishop  of  Galloway. 

^  Sydaerff.  t  Synod  Records* 


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THE  EARL*S   PALACE.  83 

Cromwell  did  not  overlook  the  fact  that  Kirkwall  had  welcomed,  or  at  all  events  had 
harboured,  the  great  Marquis,  so  he  established  here  a  strong  garrison,  to  be  maintained  at  the 
expense  of  the  inhabitants,  and  erected  military  works  to  command  the  town  and  shipping. 

In  1660,  Qeneral  Monk,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the  array,  marched  southward  with  the 
silent  intention  of  placing  Charles  Stuart  on  the  throne  of  his  fathers.  The  Scottish  Presby- 
terians, foreboding  trouble,  sent  one  of  their  number  in  Monk's  train  to  attend  to  the  interests 
of  the  Scottish  Church.  James  Sharpe,  minister  of  Craill,  was  an  able  man,  and  he  possessed 
the  full  confidence  of  his  party.  Zealous  for  the  cause  he  advocated,  he  crossed  to  Holland, 
and  saw  the  Prince  at  Breda.  Charles,  to  prevent  opposition  in  Scotland,  was  ready  to- 
promise  anything,  and  Sharpens  letters  to  his  party  were  very  encouraging. 

But,  in  1661,  Episcopacy  was  re-established  ;  the  broken  chain  of  apostolic  succession  was- 
again  linked  up  by  the  consecration  in  Westminster  Abbey  of  four  ministers  ;  and  Sharpe,  the 
Presbyterian  delegate,  returned  to  Scotland  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews.  Great  was  the  wrath 
of  the  Scottish  ministers  at  the  overthrow  of  their  Church,  and  universal  was  the  detestation 
in  which  the  people  held  the  perfidious  prelate.  **  The  great  stain,"  says  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
"  will  always  remain,  that  Sharpe  deserted  and  probably  betrayed  a  cause  which  his  brethren 
entrusted  to  him,  and  abused  to  his  own  purposes  a  mission  which  he  ought  not  to  have  under- 
taken but  with  the  determination  of  maintaining  its  principal  object." 

And  now,  Thomas  Sydserff,  who  before  the  Commonwealth  had  been  Bishop  of  Galloway, 
was  promoted  to  the  See  of  Orkney.  Though  eighty  years  of  age,  and  unable  to  come  north, 
he  devoted  himself  with  energy  to  the  business  of  the  diocese.  From  his  correspondence,  he 
appears  to  have  been  a  liberal-minded  man,  endued  with  a  spirit  of  toleration  to  differing 
sects,  greatly  in  advance  of  his  time,  and,  indeed,  greatly  in  advance  of  the  vast  majority  of 
the  clergy  of  any  time. 

He  appointed  Mr  Edward  Richardson,  minister  of  South  Ronaldshay  and  Burray,  his 
dean,  and  with  his  commission,  dated  12th  Sept.  1662,  he  sent  him  a  list  of  "Instructions" 
under  thirteen  heads.  "2nd  Article.  We  ordaine  and  appoynt  our  Dean,  Mr  Edward 
Richardsone,  at  his  meeting  with  the  ministers  of  Orkney,  to  require  them,  and  every  ane  of 
them,  to  tak  and  subscryve  the  oath  <»f  alleagance  prescryved  by  the  laite  Act  of  Pailt.,  and  yt 
they  also  acknowledge  and  declair  under  yr  hands  yr  approbatione  of  the  government  of  the 
church  as  it  now  stands,  established  by  Archbps.  and  Bps.,  and  this  to  be  done  before  they 
be  admitted  to  be  members  of  this  Commission." 

During  his  year  of  office,  the  Dean  kept  Sydserff  fully  informed  on  ecclesiastical  matters  in 
the  islands,  and  sought  his  advice  in  all  cases  of  difficulty.  The  clergy  had,  without  exception, 
taken  the  required  oaths,  and  Mr  Morrison,  who  had  not  subscribed  the  famous  letter  to 
Montrose,  was  dealt  with  in  a  spirit  of  judicial  fairness,  which  surprised  and  disappointed  most 
of  the  brethren.  The  Bishop  must  have  felt  it  strange  to  issue  instructions  regarding  parishes 
of  which  he  knew  nothing  but  the  name. 

He  lived  at  Wright's  Houses,  a  short  half-mile  from  the  West  Port  of  Edinburgh.* 

"W'righouss,  1  Octr.  1662.  To  remember  the  Deane  and  his  assosiates  of  Mr  James 
Guild  his  payment  to  his  predecessor  ffor  the  Manse  of  Sand  week  and  gleib  of  Stromness, 
with  the  vicarage  of  the  forsd.  parisch  of  Stromness,  be  repayed  to  him  ayr  at  his  transporta- 
tion or  removall  by  any  intrant  qtsomever.    Sic  mhr.^  Thomas,  Bp.  of  Orkney."  , 

At  his  death,  Sept.  1663,  Bishop  Sydserff  left  a  sum  of  400  merks  to  the  Cathedral,  which 
he  had  never  seen.    This  money  was  held  by  his  executor,  Dr  John  Sydserff,  till  September 

*  Wright's  Houses  was  a  sreat  rambling  mansion  belonging  to  a  branch  of  the  Napiers  of 
Merchiston.  Its  site  is  occupied  by  what  was  Crillespie's  Hospital,  now  one  of  the  schools  of  the 
Edinburgh  Merchant  Company. 


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84  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

1669,  when  Arthur  Baikie,  having  business  in  Edinburgh,  got  from  the  Kirk  Session  twelve 
rix-dollars  to  prosecute  the  ciain). 

In  November,  Baikie,  who  was  an  elder,  was  back  in  Kirkwall,  and  as  he  did  not  report 
to  the  Session  the  expenditure  of  the  dollars,  the  probability  is  that  he  got  the  money  from  Dr 
Sydserff  without  an  appeal  to  law.  There  is  no  further  reference  to  this  legacy  in  the  Church 
records. 

The  Town  Council  had  taken  some  sort  of  licence  from  the  Lord  Protector,  and  at  the 
Bestoration  the  Earl  of  Morton,  making  use  of  this  fact,  procured  the  disfranchisement  of  the 
Corporation.  The  Magistrates  were  declared  rebels,  and  their  goods  and  gear  ordained  to  be 
confiscated.  The  civic  rulers,  however,  did  not  defer  to  Morton,  and  in  May  1662,  in  a 
petition  to  the  Privy  Council,  the  Earl  states  that  "the  inhabitants  of  Kirkwall  doe  still 
continow  in  their  insolencies,  and  exercises  the  full  liberty  of  a  royall  burgh,  and  as  yett 
kepes  up  their  pew  or  seat  in  the  Kirk  as  Magestrattis";  and  he  craves  that  "the  saidis 
inhabitants  might  be  discharged  to  exerce  the  magistracy  of  a  royal  burgh,  and  ordained  to 
demolish  their  seat  in  the  Kirk." 

Patrick  Craigie  was  provost  at  the  time,  and  on  him  devolved  the  responsibility  of 
defending  the  rights  of  the  burgh.  He  did  so  most  loyally.  "Patrick  Craigie,  pretended 
Provost,  did,  in  ane  hostile,  seditious,  and  tumultuary  manner,  pass  throw  the  town  with  tuo 
persons  beating  drums  and  proclaiming  a  fair  to  be  holden  at  the  said  burgh,  as  a  burgh 
royall."  Accordingly,  "  the  Lords  of  Privy  Council  ordains  letters  to  be  direct  to  messingers 
at  arms  to  denunce  the  said  Patrick  Craigie  rebell,  and  to  put  him  to  the  horn,  and  to  ordain 
all  his  movable  goods  and  geai*  to  be  escheat  for  his  contempt  and  disobedience."  The 
struggle  lasted  for  nine  years,  till  at  last,  in  August  1670,  the  Crown  again  recognised 
Kirkwall  as  a  "  royall  burgh  with  seaport." 

As  has  been  seen,  Lord  Morton  rented  the  Earl's  Palace  from  the  Magistrates  of 
Edinburgh,  and  he  ^eld  it  during  the  time  in  which  he  was  attempting  the  suppression  of  the 
Town  Council  of  Kirkwall.  But  the  city  of  Edinburgh  had,  in  1662,  "  freely  surrendered  to  his 
Majesty  the  Bishopric  of  Orkney,"  receiving  in  compensation  an  impost  of  "  8  pennies  upon 
every  pint  of  French  wine,  and  16  pennies  upon  every  pint  of  Spanish  and  Rhenish  wines, 
aquavitse,  and  other  strong  liquors  that  shall  happen  to  be  vended  or  sold  in  all  tyme  coming 
within  the  Burgh  of  Edinburgh,  liberties  and  privileges  thereof,  and  lands  holden  of  them."*** 

In  spite  of  this,  when  Andrew  Honyman,  Bishop  Sydserffs  successor,  came  to  Kirkwall, 
1664,  he  was  denied  access  to  his  official  residence,  which  was  occupied  by  Morton's  adherents. 

For  seven  years  the  intruders  held  the  palace  against  its  rightful  owner,  but  in  1671  the 
Bishop  obtained  decree  against  the  Earl  of  Morton,  Buchanan  of  Sound,  and  others  to  cause 
them  to  remove.t 

Andrew  Honyman  was  bom  and  educated  in  St.  Andrews,  and  had  been  minister  of  the 
second  charge  in  the  College  Kirk  there.  His  colleague  in  the  first  charge  was  Bobert  Blair, 
and,  as  a  solemn  duty,  we  find  the  two  of  them  attending  a  witch-burning  at  Craill.  Hony- 
man was  afterwards  Archdeacon  in  the  Cathedral,  and  was  thus  brought  into  close  contact 
with  Archbishop  Sharpe.  t 

Among  the  Presbyterians  there  were  some  fanatics  whose  hatred  of  the  Primate  sought 
expression  in  murder,  and  an  attempt  at  his  assassination  in  Edinburgh  nearly  brought 
death  to  our  Bishop.  Honyman,  while  in  the  act  of  stepping  into  Sharpens  carriage,  received 
in  his  arm  a  poisoned  bullet  which  was  intended  for  his  friend,  and  though  the  wound  was 
not  immediately  fatal,  the  effects  of  the  poison  were  permanent. 

In  his  time  the  spire  of  the  Cathedral  was  burned,  and  it  was  largely  by  his  exertions  and 
•  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  460,        t  W.  D.  Baikie's  Papers.        t  A.  Lang's  St.  Andrews. 


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THE  earl's  palace.  85 

through  his  influence  in  stimulating  the  efforts  of  the  townspeople  that  the  building  waa 
saved. 

**The  Englishes,"  in  the  time  of  Cromwell's  occupation,  had  wrought  havoc  among 
the  fittings  of  the  church,  and  we  find  this  prelate  petitioning  the  Session  that  his  pew  *'  may 
be  transformed  in  a  better  forme,  and  repaired  more  compendiouslie  after  the  first  forme  it 
had  in  his  predeeeasor's,  Bishop  Graham's,  time." 

Bishop  Honyman  was  the  first  to  cause  a  register  of  the  dead  to  be  kept  in  KirkwalL 
He  died  in  1676,  and  was  buried  in  the  Cathedral,  "  in  the  place  where  Bishop  Tulloch's  tomb 
had  been  erected."    He  was  much  loved  and  respected  by  all  classes  of  the  community.  * 

Sir  William  Honyman  of  Armadale,  Bart.,  grandson  of  the  Bishop's  first  wife,  Euphan 
Cunningham,  was  afterwards  Commissary  of  Orkney,  and  Robert,  son  of  his  second  wife,  Mary 
Stewart,  heiress  of  Qramsay,  became  proprietor  of  the  Stewart  estates,  t 

Half  a  year  after  the  death  of  Honyman,  Murdoch  Mackenzie  was  elected  Bishop  of 
Orkney,  Sept.  1676.  He  was  a  scion  of  the  Qairloch  family,  his  father  being  a  natural  son  of 
John  Mackenide  of  Qairloch.  t 

Another  writer  puts  this  somewhat  differently :— "  Murdo  Mackenzie,  D.D.,  successively 
Bishop  of  Moray  and  of  Orkney  and  Zetland,  died  at  his  episcopal  palace  at  Kirkwall  in  Feb. 
1688,  being  near  a  hundred  year  old,  and  yet  enjoyed  the  perfect  use  of  all  his  faculties  until 
the  very  last."  § 

"  This,  however,  is  evidently  a  mistake,  as  it  is  stated  at  p.  162  of  the  same  work  that  he 
was  born  in  the  year  1600,  descended  from  a  younger  branch  of  the  house  of  Qairloch,  in 
Ross-shire,  his  direct  ancestor,  Alexander  (apparently  grandfather),  having  been  third  son  of 
John,  second  Baron  of  Qairloch,  who  died  in  1660,  by  Agnes,  only  daughter  of  James  Eraser 
of  Foyers,  in  the  same  Coimty. 

"  The  following  data  of  this  venerable  Prelate's  ecclesiastical  career,  taken  from  a  MS., 
*  Fasti  Ecclesise  Scoticanse,'  may  prove  interesting  :— A.M.  of  King's  College  and  University  of 
Aberdeen,  1616  ;  received  episcopal  ordination,  it  is  said,  from  Bishop  Maxwell  of  Ross.  But  I 
would  place  it  at  an  earlier  date,  probably  about  1624,  as  that  Bishop  was  not  consecrated  till 
1633,  and  Mr  McKenzie  is  recorded  to  have  been  chaplain  to  a  Scottish  regiment  under  Qustavus 
Adolphus,  King  of  Sweden,  during  the  war  in  Qermany,  which  must  have  been  between  June 
1630  and  Nov.  16th,  1632  (the  period  of  his  death  in  the  battle  of  Lutzen,  in  Saxony). 

"  On  his  return  to  his  native  land,  he  was  made  Parson  of  Contin,  a  parish  in  Ross-shire, 
the  exact  year  I  have  not  ascertained,  but  it  must  have  been  between  1633  and  1638,  as  he  was 
a  member  of  the  famous  Qlasgow  Assembly  (which  met  on  Nov.  21st ,  1638,  and  abolished  the 
Established  Church  of  Scotland),  appearing  on  the  roll  as  one  of  the  clerical  representatives  of 
the  Presbytery  of  Dingwall.  Translated  from  Contin  to  Inverness,  in  1640,  as  first  minister  of 
the  collegiate  charge  of  that  town  and  parish.  Admitted  to  the  first  charge  of  the  town  and 
parish  of  Elgin,  April  17th,  1646,  and  retained  that  living  after  his  elevation  to  the  episcopate, 
having  his  residence  there  at  the  seat  of  the  Cathedral  and  Chapter  of  the  diocese  of  Moray, 
his  successor  as  Parson  of  Elgin  not  having  been  appointed  till  July  1682.  For  nearly  24 
years  it  is,  therefore,  evident  that  he  conformed  to  Presbyterianism,  and  even  at  Chnstnuus 
1669  he  is  said  to  have  been  so  zealous  a  Covenanter  and  'precisian'  as  to  have  opposed  the 
keeping  of  all  holy  days  at  Elgin,  and  to  have  searched  the  houses  in  that- town  for  any  *  Yule 
geese '  as  being  superstitious  ! 

"  On  the  re-establishment  of  Episcopacy  by  King  Charles  II.,  the  Parson  of  Elgin,  how- 
ever, readily  complied  with  the  new  order  of  things  in  Church  and  State ;  although,  after  all, 
it  was  only  a  return  to  the  same  form  of  Church  government  in  which  he  had  been  originally 
*  Wallace,  p.  77.        t  Fasti.        t  Graven,  p.  66.        §  Keith's  Scottish  Biflhope,  p.  228. 


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86  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

educated  and  ordained.  He  was  nominated  to  the  Bishopric  of  Moray  by  Royal  Letters 
Patent,  January  18th,  1662,  and  consecrated  to  that  See  on  May  7th  following,  in  the  Abbey 
Church  at  Holyrood  Palace  at  Edinburgh  (together  with  five  other  Bishops  elect)  by  the 
Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews,  primate  and  metropolitan,  assisted  by  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow 
and  the  Bishop  of  Galloway.  The  form  used  was  that  in  the  English  Ordinal,  and  the 
Consecration  Sermon  was  preached  by  the  Revd.  James  Gordon,  Parson  of  Drumblade,  in 
Aberdeenshire.  Bishop  McKenzie's  signature  to  documents  still  in  existence  was  as  Bishop  of 
Moray,  *  Murdo.  Maruien,'  and  also  *  Murdo,  B.  of  Moray.'  And  after  an  Episcopate  then  of 
nearly  15  years,  he  was  translated  to  the  more  wealthy  Bishopric  of  Orkney  and  Zetland  on 
Feb.  14th,  1677,  which  he  held  for  about  11  years,  dying  in  the  89th  year  of  his  age  and  26th 
of  his  Episcopate."  * 

Though  Mackenzie  was  perhaps  the  most  popular  of  the  Orkney  Bishops,  as  a  Presby- 
terian minister  he  had  had  his  troubles.  "  His  settlement  at  Inverness  was  attended  with 
such  violent  opposition  as  to  call  for  the  interference  of  the  General  Assembly.  Again,  at 
Elgin,  the  Town  Council  had  a  hard  fight  before  they  could  induct  him,  and  so  bitter  was  the 
feeling,  that  after  a  couple  of  months  of  it  he  told  the  presbytery  that  he  would  not  stay  by 
reason  of  the  troubles." 

He  was  able,  however,  to  live  down  the  opposition.  The  story  of  the  geese  is  given  by 
the  Rev.  Mr  Shawt : —  "  He  had  been  accounted  a  superstitiously  zealous  Presbyterian  and 
Covenanter,  and  so  much  an  enemy  to  the  Keeping  of  holy  days  that  it  is  commonly  said  at 
Elgin  that  at  Christmas  1659  he  searched  the  houses  in  that  town  that  they  might  not  have  a 
Christmas  goose.  But  Bishopric  cured  him  of  these  blemishes,  and  he  soon  deposed  some  of 
his  clergy  for  nonconformity." 

There  still  lingers  the  tradition  that  on  his  landing  at  Scapa,  when  the  "  Bishop  cup"  was 
handed  to  him  filled  with  strong  ale,  he  drained  it  at  a  draught  and  asked  for  more. 

The  only  trouble  about  the  story  is  that,  if  ever  this  famous  cup  existed  anywhere  outside 
of  Buchanan's  pages,  it  had  been  lost  to  Orkney  long  before  the  advent  of  Bishop  Murdoch. 

The  Rev.  James  Wallace,  his  contemporary,  says  : — "  Buchanan  tells  a  story  which  is  still 
believed  here  and  talked  of  as  a  Truth.  That  in  Scajya  (a  place  about  a  Mile  from  Kirkwall 
to  the  South)  there  was  keept  a  large  Cupp  which,  when  any  new  Bishop  landed  there,  they 
filled  with  strong  Ale  and  oflFered  it  to  him  to  drink ;  and  if  he  happened  to  drink  it  off 
Cheerfully,  they  promised  to  themselves  a  Noble  Bishop  and  many  good  years  in  his  time." 

The  story,  as  Buchanan  tells  it,  is  this  : — "  They  have  an  ancient  goblet  which,  that  they 
may  have  the  higher  authority  for  their  revels,  they  pretend  belonged  to  St.  Magnus,  who  first 
introduced  Christianity  among  them.  Its  amplitude  so  far  surpasses  the  dimensions  of 
common  drinking-cups  that  it  might  pass  for  a  relic  of  the  feast  of  the  Lapithae. 

"  With  this  they  prove  their  bishop  upon  his  first  appearance  among  them.  He  who 
empties  the  cup  at  one  draught — which,  however,  rarely  happens — they  hail  with  the  greatest 
applause,  and  from  this,  as  from  a  joyful  augury,  they  anticipate  a  prosperous  ensuing  year." 

When  Mr  Wallace  met  Bishop  Mackenzie  at  Scapa,  he  knew  nothing  of  the  Bishop  cup 
but  Buchanan's  story. 

Though  Mackenzie  had  been  a  warrior  in  his  youth,  and  even  as  Presbyterian  minister 
had  been  somewhat  bellicose,  time  had  mellowed  him  down  before  he  reached  Kirkwall,  and 
the  text  of  his  6rst  sennon  in  the  Cathedral,  "  Let  the  peace  of  God  rule  in  your  hearts,"  had 
Jbecome  the  rule  of  his  life. 

He  was  "a  most  worthy  Bishop  and  greatly  beloved  for  his  hospitality,  peaceful  disposi- 
tion, piety,  brotherliness,  and  prudent  government." 

*  Major-Gen.  A.  S.  Allan,  Notes  and  Queries  No.  127,  June  4th,  1864.        t  History  of  Moray. 


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THE  eael's  palace.  87 

Occasions  for  special  display  of  hospitality  sometimes  occurred,  as  on  the  fourth  of  April 
1678,  when  Greorge  Balfour  of  Pharay  married  Marjorie,  second  daughter  of  the  Bishop,  and 
again  on  the  fifteenth  of  May  in  the  same  year,  when  John  Kennedy  of  Kermunks  married 
Jean,  the  eldest  daughter.  And  it  would  be  easy  to  furnish  the  great  hall  of  the  old  Palace 
with  guests,  beginning  with  his  nearest  neighbours,  Robert  Honyman  of  Graemsay  and  William 
Buchanan  of  Rusland,  who  lived  next  door  to  each  other  in  the  "  Long  Tenement "  next  the 
round  tower  of  the  old  Bishop's  Palace.  A  very  brilliant  party  the  reverend  old  gentleman 
could  gather  round  him  on  such  occasions,  and  for  the  time  the  gentlemen  would  doubtless 
forget  their  private  feuds.  Mr  Patrick  Graeme  of  Graemeshall  was  recently  dead,  and  James,, 
who  succeeded  him,  could  not  meet  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankemess  on  the  same  side  of  the 
street  without  creating  a  breach  of  the  peace  ;  while  Mudie  of  Melsetter  would  draw  upon 
Douglas  of  Egilshay  in  the  Cathedral  itself. 

The  gifted  historian  of  the  Episcopal  Church  in  Orkney  tells  of  the  vigour  which  this 
octogenarian  overseer  exhibited  in  visiting  the  scattered  churches  in  the  mainland  and  islands, 
and  there  is  abundant  proof  that  he  took  his  full  share  of  the  Cathedral  services. 

When  he  might  well  have  spared  himself  and  allowed  Mr  James  Wallace  to  preach,  he 
sometimes  preferred  to  occupy  the  pulpit  himself. 

On  the  13th  of  July  1681,  "  Being  Wednesday,  Bishop  Mackenzie  preached  a  sermon  in 
remembrance  of  a  fast  and  humiliation  for  the  threatening  drought  in  the  south  of  Scotland, 
and  for  a  gracious  determination  of  this  ensuing  Parliament  in  Scotland  which  is  to  be  at 
Edinboro'  the  28th  July  inst,  wherein  the  Duke  of  York  was  to  sit  viceroy." 

The  text  was  very  appropriate  to  the  first  part  of  his  subject : — "  If  I  shut  up  heaven  that 
there  be  no  rain,"  &c.  It  would  be  very  interesting  now  to  know  what  the  preacher  said  in 
the  second  part  of  his  discourse. 

The  peculiar  graciousness  of  the  Duke  of  York  in  Scotland  is  thus  described  by  Sir  Walter 
Scott :— '*  Blind  to  experience,  the  Duke  of  York  continued  to  attempt  the  extirpation  of  the 
Cameronian  sect.  All  usual  forms  of  law,  all  the  bulwarks  by  which  the  subjects  of  a  country 
are  protected  against  the  violence  of  armed  power  were  at  once  broken  down,  and  officers  and 
soldiers  received  commissions  not  only  to  apprehend  but  to  interrogate  and  punish  any  persons 
whom  they  might  suspect  of  fanatical  principles ;  and  if  they  thought  proper  they  might  put 
them  to  death  on  the  spot." 

But  Bishop  Mackenzie  was  far  removed  from  those  scenes  of  persecution,  and  no  religious 
strife  disturbed  Orkney  till  some  time  after  his  death. 

During  the  last  year  of  his  life  he  was  in  feeble  condition,  and  his  public  appearances 
were  so  few  that  they  were  noted  with  interest  by  the  townspeople. 

Under  date,  5th  June  1687,  Thomas  Brown,  N.P.,  records  in  his  Diary—"  Bishop 
Mackenzie  came  to  hear  sermon  in  the  afternoon." 

On  the  18th  of  July^  same  year,  he  attended  his  last  meeting  of  Session.  The  members 
had  an  important  case  before  them.  "Compeared  Helen  Paplay  for  imprecating  Wm. 
Grimbister,  who,  since  her  imprecation  is  feebly,  confessed  that  when  he  called  her  a  witch 
she  answered  and  said  so  might  he  thrive,  and  bruck  his  health." 

"  Friday,  at  six  at  night  (17th  Feb.  1688),  Murdoch,  Bp.  of  Orkney  and  Zetland,  departed 
this  life,  being  nea;r  ane  hundred  yearss  of  age  or  thereby,*  and  was  interred  in  S.  Magnus 
Kirk  in  Kirkwall,  within  the  commone  Court  place  of  the  same,  commonly  called  the  Counsel 
House,  which  no  person  had  been  interred  hitherto."  With  great  solemnity  Mr  Jame9 
Wallace  preached  the  funeral  sermon,  his  text,  25  Gen.  8  v.,  "  Then  Abraham  gave  up  the 
ghost  and  died  in  a  good  old  age,  ane  old  man  full  of  yeires,  and  was  gathered  to  his  people." 

•  Probably  87. 


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88  KIR^WAUt  IN   THfi'OEKNfiYS. 

In  his  laBt  will  the  Bishop  remembered  his  Cathedral—"  9th  Oct  1693,  Mr  John  Wilson, 
minister,  delivered  in  face  of  Session  the  sum  of  two  hundred  merks  in  name  of  Sir  Alexr. 
Mackenzie  of  Brownhill,  eldest  la^-ful  son  to  the  late  Murdo,  Lord  Bishop  of  Orkney,  left  by 
the  said  Bishop  for  pbus  uses,  for  the  which  the  Session  tendered  their  hearty  and  humble 
thanks,  and  for  the  honour  and  respect  they  bear  to  the  memory  of  the  foresaid  Reverend 
Father  in  God,  they  give  and  grant  full  liberty  to  his  children  and  grandchildren  and  theirs  to 
JMiry  in  the  Session  house  of  St  Magnus  Church,  where  the  corps  of  the  foresaid  Bishop  lies." 

Andrew  Bruce,  D.D.,  formerly  of  Dunkeld,  was  appointed  to  Orkney,  17th  August  of  the 
same  year.  Though  he  never  resided  in  his  diocese,  he  exercised  the  functions  of  bishop  and 
translated  Mr  Pitcairn  from  the  second  charge  in  Kirkwall  to  the  charge  of  South  Ronaldshay 
and  Burray.  Mr  John  Cobb,  whom  he  nominated  for  the  Cathedral  and  who  was  appointed 
7th  July  1689,  was  probably  the  last  presentee  in  Scotland  under  Episcopacy  as  by  law 
established.    Bruce  retired  to  his  former  parish,  Kilrenny,  where  he  died  1699. 

Colonel  Robert  Elphingston  of  Lopness  was  now  appointed  Chamberlain  of  the  bishopric 
at  a  yearly  salary,  of  £200. 

He  sent  his  family  to  Kirkwall  before  he  came  himself.  "  Monday,  the  14th  July  1690, 
Clara  Van  Ovemiear,  spouse  to  Robert  Elphingston  of  Lopness,  with  her  retenew,  came  from 
Holm  to  Kirkwall  and  lodged  in  Anna  Moncrieff's,  being  ten  in  number,  herself,  bairns,  and 
servants."  ♦ 

A  month  later  the  Chamberlain  followed  :— *'  Monday,  at  night  between  10  and  11,  the  18 
Augt.  1690,  Robt  Elphingston  of  Lopness  came  to  Kirkwall  from  his  journey  from  Edr.,  and 
entered  his  present  dwelling  house  in  the  pallace  within  the  yeards  lately  possest  by  Bp. 
McKenzie." 

"  John  Elphinstone  of  Baberton,  3rd  son  of  Robert,  3rd  Lord  Eiphinstone  and  younger 
brother  of  James,  1st  Lord  Balmerino,  left  a  son,  Ronald  Elphinstone,  who  married  Janet 
fialcro  of  Brugh  and  settled  in  Orkney."  His  son,  Robert,  who  in  early  life  was  page  to 
Prince  Henry,  eldest  son  of  James  VI.,  left  an  only  son,  John  Elphingston  of  Lopne.Hs,  and  it 
was  John's  son  Robert,  a  Colonel  of  Militia,  who  now  took  possession  of  the  Earl's  Palace,  f 

This  foolish,  overbearing  man,  riding  on  his  commission,  issued  the  following  circukr  to 
the  gentlemen  of  Orkney  within  a  week  of  hb  arrival  :— 

Kirkwall,  23rd  Aufft.  1690. 
BiR, — It  bath  pleased  their  Majesties  to  appoint  me  by  their  commiMion  under  the  Great  Seal  to 
be  their  Stewart  and  Justiciar  of  the  ylands  of  Orkney  and  Zetland,  as  Ivkewayes  of  the  BLshoprick 
now  annexed  by  Act  of  Parliament  to  the  Stewartrie,  whairfore  I  desire  that  ye  wold  be  pleased  to  be 
at  Kirkwall  upon  Fryday  nixt,  heine  the  29th  inat. ,  to  heir  the  intimation  tbairoff  and  attend  what 
farder  orders  snail  be  dely vered  by,  Sir,  your  affectionate  Servant,  Robbrt  Blpuingstok. 

For  his  respected  fremde. 
Be  pleased  to  cause  intimation  to  all  the  persons  concerned. 

In  the  same  autocratic  manner  he  addresses  the  magistrates  : — 

"  Provost  and  Bayles  of  the  Brugh  of  Kirkwall,  receave  into  your  prisone  house  the  person  of  John 
Hemiger.  Keep  and  detaine  him  tWein  upon  his  owna  proper  expenses  ontiU  my  farder  orders,  snd 
this  shall  be  ane  warrand  subs,  with  my  hand  att  Kirkwall  the  nynteen  day  of  November  1690. 

"  RioBSBT  Elphingston." 

Thomas  Brown  does  not  tells  ns  wlio  occupied  Lopness  at  this  time,  but  he  shows  how 
the  tenant  was  treated  :— **  Monday  ye  6  Oct  1690,  Robert  Elphingston  of  Lopness  his  com* 
mand  his  brethren,  John  and  William,  with  Sebastian  Henderson  and  the  tenants  upon  the 
lands  thei«,i;pigtei;fiillie^eQfdied  the<hai#se  ofXopness.*' 

•  Brown's  Diary.        f  Burke. 


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THE   EARLS   PAL  AC  K.  89 

Seeing  that  Episcopacy  had  been  disestablished  a  year  before  Elphingston  came  north,  it 
could  not  be  expected  that  the  Kirkwall  ministers  should  escape  his  interference. 

"Saty.,  Robert  Elphingston  caused  Robt.  Arskyne  to  make  intimation  to  Mr  John 
Wilson,  minister,  that  he  should  cist  from  preaching  the  Word."  * 

As  Chamberlain,  Elphingston  collected  the  bishopric  rents,  and  his  girnel  house  was  part 
of  the  Palace,  probably  a  part  of  which  there  are  now  no  remains. 

Under  the  girnel  there  was  cellarage  which  could  be  turned  to  account  for  many  purposes. 
In  February  1691,  during  three  days,  horses  from  Stenness  discharged  their  lojided  panniers 
into  this  store  room.  On  the  twenty-second  of  January  of  the  above  year,  "Providence 
ordered  that  ane  hundred  and  two  palaig  whales  were  chased  ashore  betwixt  the  south  of 
Ireland  in  Stenhous  and  the  Bridge  of  Waith,  which  number  or  yrby  was  intromitted  with  by 
Robt.  Elphingston  of  Lopness,  and  brought  to  Kirkwall— I  mean  ye  spick  of  them— and  put 
in  the  laigh  house  under  the  girnal  house  in  the  Palace  of  the  Yeards  possessed  by  him,  the 
3rd,  4th,  and  5th  of  Feb.  yrafter."t 

In  those  days,  people  made  their  own  oil  and  candles,  and  the  blubber  of  a  hundred 
porpoises  would  illuminate  the  Palace  for  a  considerable  time,  though  Clara  Van  Overmear 
and  her  "  retinew"  would  find  the  boiling  of  the  *'  spick"  rather  smelly  work. 

After  a  time  Elphingston's  affairs  became  hopelessly  involved,  and  he  ^*  fled  the  kingdom 
without  ever  accounting  for  a  farthing."  J 

Elphingston  and  his  family  were  probably  the  last  occupants  of  the  old  Palace.  In  1699, 
the  University  of  Aberdeen  got  a  tack  of  the  bishopric,  and  appointed  William  Menzies  of 
Raws,  Writer  to  the  Signet,  their  Chamberlain.  This  gentleman  would  appear  to  have 
managed  the  estate  from  his  Edinburgh  office,  with  the  result  that,  in  1705,  his  clients  had  to 
prosecute  for  arrears  a  number  of  persons  who  would  have  paid  regularly  to  a  resident  factor. 
The  list  of  defaulters  reads  like  a  directory  of  Orkney  :— 

"Ann,  by  the  grace  of  God,  Queen  of  Great  Brittain,  France,  and  Ireland,  Defender  of  the 
faith,  !io  our  liovites,  our  Sheriffs  in  that  part,  Conlly.  and  Seally.,  Speally.  constitute,  greeting. 
Forasmuch  as  it  is  humbly  meaned  and  shown  to  us  by  our  Lovite,  Mr  Georce  Fraser,  Subprinll.  of 
tne  CoUedge  of  Aberdeen,  and  Mr  George  Gordone,  professor  of  the  Oriental  Languages  in  ye  said 
CoUedge.  That  where  upon  the  third  day  of  May  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  live  years,  George 
Baikie  of  Tankerness  "  (and  some  sixty  others)  **  were  orderly  denunced  Rebells  and  put  to  the  Home 
be  vertue  of  Letters  of  Homins  raised,  used,  and  execute  agtt.  ym  at  ye  saids  Complrs.  Instance  as 
Tacksmen  of  the  rents  of  the  Bishoprick  of  Orkney,  Conforme  to  the  Tack  made  and  putt  Betwixt 
tne  Lords  of  Thesaury  and  Exchequer  and  ye  sds.  Complrs.,  dated  the  fourteenth  Day  of  July,  mdc. 
and  nynty-nyne  years,  Regratt.  in  the  Books  of  Thesaury  and  Exchequer  the  twenty-eight  day  of 
July  yrafter,  for  not  paytt.  making  to  the  sds.  Complrs.  of  yr  Seall.  portiones  yrof ,  Ilk  ane  of  ym  for 
yr  own  pairts,  as  is  after  divyded,  viz.  : — the  sd.  George  Baikie  of  Tankemes,  the  sowme  of  two 
hundred  and  seventy -four  pounds  five  shill.  sixpennys ;  the  sd.  Mr  John  Cobb,  fourty-four  pounds 
four  shill.  ;  the  sd.  David  Traill,  ^ve  pd.  eight  shill.  eight  pennies ;  NicoU  Voy,  three  pd.  eighteen 
shill.  eight  pennies  ;  Patrick  Kynaird,  sixty-six  pd.  fourteen  shill.  three  pennies ;  James  Couper, 
eight  pa.  seven  shill.  ;  James  Grahame  of  Grahameshall,  nine  hunder  and  seventv-five  pd.  sixteen 
shill.  ten  pennies  ;  John  Pavis,  in  Lentoun,  fyfteen  pd.  three  shill.  ;  Thomas  Heddell,  thirty  pound 
eighteen  fehill.  four  d.  ;  William  Heddell,  in  Quoymerries,  fifty  pound  four  shill.  four  d,  ;  James 
Cuming,  in  Slae,  for  the  aires  of  umqll  Kaithorine  Smith,  sixty-one  pound  ten  shill.  ten  pennys ; 


pennies  ;  James  Beatone,  two  pd.  fourteen  shill.  eight  pennys  ;  Patrick  Monteath,  two  pd.  six  shill. 
eight  pennys  ;  Edward  Broun,  fyve  pd.  ten  shill.  six  pennys  ;  Adam  Caird,  in  Kairstone,  twenty^ 
ftrve  pd.  eight  pennys ;  David  Broun  of  Don,  eight  pd.  thirteen  shill.  seven  pennys ;  Kaithorine 
Lonttit,  three  pound  thirteen  shill.  four  pennies ;  George  Johnstone,  there,  four  pd.  nine  shill.  two 
pennies ;  Patrick  Ir\'ing,  nine  pd.  four  shill.  four  pennies  ;  John  Couper,  three  pound  nyne  shill.  seven 
{tennies ;  George  Leask,  nine  pound  eight  shill.  ten  pennys ;  the  sa.  Wm.  Louttit,  thirty-seven  pd. 

♦  T;  B.,  25th  Oct.  1690.  t  T.  B.  t  Fund  Process,  Part  II.,  p.  51. 


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90  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

eleven  shill.  fyve  pennies  ;  John  Duncan,  one  pound  seventeen  shill.  six  d.  ;  John  Cureitor,  nynteen 
pd.  eleven  shilL  two  pennies  ;  James  Gordone  of  Kairstone,  one  hundored  and  fourteen  pd.  ten  shill. 
six  pennies  ;  John  Broun,  four  pound  five  shill.  seven  pennies  ;  Ms^nus  Irving,  sixteen  pd.  two  shill. 
three  pennies  ;  David  Irving,  six  pd.  seventeen  shill.  two  pennies  ;  Thomas  Irving,  seven  pd.  ten  shill. 
ten  pen.  ;  and  the  sd.  John  Irving,  in  Burwick,  eight  pd.  nine  shill.  eieht  pen.  ;  VVm.  Moar,  twenty 
pd.  twelve  shill.  eight  pennies ;  more  be  him,  eight  pound  eighteen  shill.  ;  Hary  Irving,  one  pd.  nine 
shill.  ;  Pat.  Irving,  fourteen  pd.  seven  shill.  ;  Adam  Kirknes,  twenty-nine  pd.  six  shill.  two  pennies ; 
Margtt.  Randell,  one  pd.  ninteen  shill.  ;  Magnus  Baikie,  nine  pd.  four  Miill.  four  pennies  ;  Hugh 
Kirkness,  nine  pd.  seventeen  shill.  ;  Magnus  Marwick,  three  pd.  eight  shill.  ;  David  Kirkness,  twenty- 
two  pil.  twelve  shill.  two  pen.  ;  Adam  Kirknes,  twenty-fyve  pd.  seventeen  shill.  six  pen.  ;  Oliver 
Liuktattor,  seven  pd.  eight  shill.  four  pen.  ;  John  Sabistone,  one  pd.  six  shilL  ten  pen.  ;  James  Moar, 
one  pd.  fyfteen  shill.  six  pen.  ;  Alexr.  Johnstone,  fyve  pd.  nine  shill.  ten  pen.  ;  Alexr.  Hourstone, 
twelve  pd.  thirteen  shill.  ;  Wm.  Hourstone,  four  pd.  thirteen  shill.  two  d.  ;  and  the  sd.  Hugh  Baikie 
of  Barnes,  three  hundered  and  twenty-eight  pound  ;  Captt.  James  Moody,  six  hundered  and  seventeen 
pd.  nine  shill.  ;  Jean  Halcro,  Relict  of  umqll.  Mowatt  of  Swenzie,  thirty-nine  pd.  thirteen  nynteen* 
shill.  eleven  pen.;  David  ^rskyne,  mertt.  in  Kirkll.,  twenty-three  pound  six  shilL  eight  pennys  ; 
John  Covingtree,  Bailly  in  Kirkll.,  Fifty -four  pd.  twelve  shill.  two  d.  ;  Andrew  Young,  Comysr.  of 
Orkney,  for  George  and  Hugh  Redlands,  sixty-one  pd.  ten  shill.  ;  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyairds, 
ninty-three  pd.  fyve  shill.  six  pennys ;  John  Spence,  tnirty-two  pd.  four  shill.  ;  Wm.  Traill,  mertt.  in 
Kirkll.,  twenty-six  pd.  eleven  shill.  six  d.  ;  Margaret  Elphistone,  eight  pound  three  shill.  ;  and  the 
ad.  Barbara  Hcndersone,  Relict  of  umqll.  Gilbert  Measone,  in  Kirkll.,  twenty -one  pd.  three  shill.  ten 
pennies. " 

All  these  persons  were  to  be  apprehended  and  imprisoned  till  payment  should  be  forth- 
coming. 

In  1705,  Sir  Alexander  Douglas  of  Egilshay  got  a  tack  of  the  bishopric  and  farmed  the 
rents  for  nine  years.  As  he  did  not  live  in  the  Palace,  it  may  be  fairly  assumed  that  the 
building  was  no  longer  habitable. 

Thus  this  beautiful  mansion,  Earl  Patrick's  pride,  has  from  the  time  of  its  foundation  till 
it  stands  a  tenantless  ruin,  a  history  of  less  than  one  hundred  years. 

Douglas  of  Egilshay  was  followed  in  succession  as  farmers  of  the  bishopric  revenues  by 
Graham  of  Breckness,  Captain  Moodie  of  Melsetter,  Robert  Honyman  of  Graemsay,  John 
Covingtrie  of  Newark,  John  Hay  of  Balbethan,  Andrew  Ross,  and  Lord  Dundas. 

The  rent  generally  ran  about  £200  till  the  Dundas  family  got  it  in  1775  at  a  rent  of  £50, 
to  continue  during  His  Majesty's  pleasure. 

This  lease,  at  a  mere  nominal  rent,  was  granted  by  George  III.  on  the  condition  that  the 
lessee  held  the  income  of  the  bishopric  in  trust  for  public  improvements.t 

The  lease  continued  till  1825,  since  which  time  the  bishopric  revenues  have  been  collected 
by  Chamberlains  of  the  Crown. 

A  recent  author  |  expresses  righteous  indignation  at  the  unroofing  of  the  Palace  and  the 
sale  of  the  slates  by  the  Chamberlain,  Andrew  Ross,  and  he  has  his  information  from  an 
account  still  preserved  in  the  office  of  Andrew  Gold,  Esq.,  the  present  Chamberlain  of  the 
earldom  : — 

"  Accompt  of  Sclates  Taken  off  My  Lord  Morton's  House  in  Kirkwall : — 

1746,  March.— To  .3400  Sclate,  at  £8  per  thous.,  is,  Scots    £27    4 

To  103  foot  rigging,  at  3/ per  foot 15    9 

£42  13 
'*  Kirkwall,  1st  June  1745. — Received  payment  of  the  above  forty-two  pounds  thirteen  shillings 
Scots  from  Dr  Hugh  Sutherland. — Andrew  Ross." 

The  writer  proceeds,  "  Other  houses  in  the  town  are  said  to  have  been  unroofed  in  a 
similar  fashion." 

Some  of  the  Earls  of  Morton  had  been  occupants  of  the  Palace,  and  then,  as  has  been 
*  This  error  is  in  the  manuscript.        +  Balfour,  Odal  Rights  and  Feudal  Wrongs,  p.  77.        t  Tudor. 


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THE   earl's   palace.  91 

shown,  they  rented  it ;  but  in  no  other  sense  could  the  Newark  in  the  Yards  ever  have  been 
called  Lord  Morton's  House.  Lord  Morton's  House  was  the  large  tenement  on  the  east  side  of 
Albert  Street,  built  by  Buchanan  of  Sound,  and  the  la.st  sentence  quoted  above  explains  the 
whole  transaction.  This  house,  then  known  as  Lord  Morton's  Great  Lodging,  having  become 
ruinous,  Dr  Hugh  Sutherland,  Town  Treasurer,  bought  from  the  Earl's  factor  s«)me  of  the 
material  to  be  ajiplicd  to  the  building  of  the  Town  Hall. 

Lord  Morton,  at  the  request  of  the  Town  Council,  granted  stones  for  the  same  building 
from  the  old  Castle,  which  was  earldom  property,  but  the  Palace  was  bishopric  and  beyond  his 
control. 

In  1849,  Government  was  approached  concerning  the  disposal  of  the  ruined  Palace  : — 

**  Unto  the  Right  Honourable  The  Lords  Commissioners  of  Her  Majesty's  Treasury,  The  Memorial  of 
the  Conjmissioners  of  Supply,  Justices  of  the  Peace,  ajid  Landed  Proprietors  of  the  County  of 
Orkney,  and  of  the  Magistrates  and  Town  Council  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall. 

**  The  Crown  is  possessed  of  three  extensive  public  buildings  in  the  town  of  Kirkwall,  all  situated 
within  a  short  distance  of  one  another. 

**  The  first  of  these  > is  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus,  which  is  justly  considered  to  be  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  interesting  relics  of  Ecclesiastical  Architecture  in  Great  Britain.  It  is  now  in  course 
of  being  repaired  with  great  skill  and  judgment  by  Mr  Mathison,  the  Architect  of  the  Board  of  Woods 
and  Forests  in  Scotland,  under  whose  superintendence  it  promises  to  become  a  lasting  ornament  to 
this  part  of  the  kingdom.  The  second  is  the  Castle  of  the  Bishops  of  Orkney,  an  ancient  and  massive 
structure,  which,  with  the  exception  of  (me  castellated  round  tower  resembling  that  of  Aymer  de 
Valence  at  Both  well,  is  completely  ruinous.  The  third  is  the  Earl's  Palace,  or  *  Place,'  once  the 
residence  of  the  family  of  Stewart/  Earls  of  Orkney,  which  have  been  extinct  for  about  250  years. 
This  last  is  an  exceedingly  beautiful  building.  Sir  Walter  Scott,  both  in  his  Diary  and  in  the  Novel 
of  the  Pirate,  describes  it  with  much  admiration,  and  suggests  that  its  peculiar  style  might  be  success- 
fully adopted  by  the  Architects  of  the  day  for  purposes  of  modern  splendour.  Several  eminent 
architects  have  examined  it  since  Sir  Walter  Scott  visited  Orkney,  and  all  of  them  warmly  concur  in. 
his  opinion.  Your  Memorialists  would  beg  specially  to  name  Mr  Bryce,  Mr  Billings,  and  the  late  Mr 
Nixon,  and  they  might  also  refer  to  many  Noblemen  and  Gentlemen,  distinguished  for  their  taste  for 
the  fine  arts,  who  have  lately  visited  this  part  of  the  country  and  expressed  equal  admiration  of  the 
Buildine. 

**  The  work  now  publishing  by  Messrs  Billings  and  Bum  on  the  Baronial  and  Ecclesiastical  Anti- 
quities of  Scotland  (part  xv.)  contains  a  description  and  an  illustration  of  it,  to  which  your  Memorialists, 
respectfully  best  leave  to  refer. 

**  The  Earl's  Palace  is  now  stripped  of  its  roof,  but  the  walls  remain  almost  entire,  and  being 
uncommonly  strong,  and  the  masonry  of  the  best  and  most  solid  description,  the  building  could  he- 
restored  without  incurring  much  expense  or  trouble  if  the  works  were  commenced  soon.  Should  they 
be  delayed  for  any  considerable  time,  this  will  be  rendered  much  more  difficult,  or  perhaps  impossible^ 
realising  the  description  of  Sir  Walter  Scott — 

*  Where  nods  their  Palace  to  its  fall. 
Thy  pride  and  sorrow,  fair  Kirkwall.' 

It  is  with  a  view  to  prevent  the  fall  of  this  noble  pile,  and  to  secure  the  more  complete  restoration  of 
St.  Manius,  that  your  Memorialists  now  address  themselves  to  your  Lordships. 

**  ft  has  already  been  noticed  that  the  neighbouring  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus  is  in  course  of  being 
repaired,  and  it  is  important  to  observe  that  there  is  only  one  serious  obstacle  to  the  attainment  <? 
that  most  desirable  object.  Within  ten  yards  of  the  front  of  the  Cathedral,  and  between  it  and  the 
principal  street  of  Kirkwall,  there  is  situated  the  County  Jail  and  Court-house,  a  strong  and  sufficient, 
but  at  the  same  time  most  unsightly,  modern  building,  and  the  General  Prison  Board  for  Scotland  are 
urgently  pressing  upon  the  County  the  necessity  of  erecting  an  addition  to  it.  In  the  event  of  this 
being  done,  the  prison,  which  even  at  present  interferes  with  the  Cathedral,  will  nearly  altogether 
exclude  the  view  of  the  principal  or  western  front  from  the  opposite  street.  Now,  in  order  that  the 
ground  in  front  may  be  wholly  cleared,  and  that  the  Earl's  Palace  may  be  restored  and  preserved, 
your  Memorialists  would  respectfully  propose  to  give  up  the  Jail  and  Court-house,  with  the  surround- 
ing ground,  to  the  Crown,  and  also  to  give  a  considerable  sum  of  money  for  restoring  the  EarPa 
Palace,  on  condition  that  your  Lordships  will  convert  the  latter  building  into  a  County  Hall,  Court- 
house, and  Jail,  according  to  the  plans  and  elevations  prepared  by  Mr  Mathison,  and  which  accompany 
this  Memorial.  The  dimensions  of  these  plans  were  taken  by  Mr  Mathison  upon  the  spot,  and  the 
walls  being  nearly  complete,  the  most  part  of  the  chimneys  entire,  and  the  raglets  of  the  gables* 


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92  KIRKWALL   IN  THEj   ORKNEYS. 

clearly  marked,  your  Memorialists  are  satisfied,  from  personal  knowledge  and  inspection  of  th^ 
building,  that  the  elevations  exhibit  a  faithful  representation  of  the  palace  as  it  originally  existed. 

**  The  expense  of  restoring  and  fitting  up  the  Earl's  Palace  in  the  manner  proposed  is  estimated 
at  about  £2500,  and  the  rent  of  the  Earl's  Palace  and  the  piece  of  enclosed  ground  in  which  it  is 
situated  is  £7  per  annum.  With  a  view  to  meet  this  expense,  your  Memorialists  are  prepared  to 
contribute  the  value  of  the  present  Jail  and  County  Buildings,  to  be  given  up  by  them  to  the  Crown, 
which  is  estimated  at  £600,  together  with  a  further  sum  of  £1000.  There  will  then  remain  only  a 
sum  of  £900  to  be  provided  by  your  Lordships.  By  entertaining  this  proposal,  therefore,  you  will,  at 
an  expense  of  less  than  £1000,  obtain  the  complete  restoration  of  a  very  beautiful  national  building, 
remarkable  for  the  historical  associations  connected  with  it ;  and  it  is  important  to  observe  that  the 
mere  operation  of  putting  the  building  in  a  state  of  pennanent  repair  would  cost  the  County 
£1000,  and  that  once  restored  and  converted  into  public  offices,  the  County  of  Orkney  will  undertake 
to  maintain  and  preserve  it  in  perpetuity  free  of  expense  to  the  Crown.  Farther,  the  present  prop(raaI 
will  enable  your  Lordships,  for  the  tnHing  additional  sum  of  £500  or  £600,  to  get  an  ample  space  of 
clear  ground  in  front  of  the  Cathedral,  so  that  its  magnificent  proportions  may  be  seen  in  every 
direction  and  to  the  best  advantage. 

"  Your  Memorialists  place  implicit  confidence  in  the  experience,  ability,  and  good  taste  of  the 
professional  Gentlemen  employed  by  the  Commissioners  of  Woods  and  Forests,  and  are  willing  to  leave 
the  repairing  of  the  Earl's  Palace  and  fitting  up  of  the  Jail  and  Public  Offices  entirely  in  their  hands  ; 
and  tliey  venture  to  hope  that,  under  the  circumstances,  your  Lordships  will  be  pleased  to  give  your 
early  and  favourable  consideration  to  the  present  proposal. '^ 

This  was  signed,  in  name  of  the  memorialists,  by  James  Baikie,  Convener  of  the  County. 

At  a  "  Special  meeting  of  Commissioners  of  Supply,  Justices  of  the  Peace,  and  Landed 
Proprietors  of  the  County  of  Orkney  and  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall,  held  at  Kirkwall,  22nd 
Jany.  1849,  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  Convener  of  the  County,  in  the  Chair, 

"  Mr  Robertson  read  to  the  meeting  a  Memorial  of  the  Lords  of  the  Treasury  praying  for 
the  restoration  of  the  Earl's  Palace  at  Kirkwall,  and  that  it  might  be  converted  into  a  County 
Hall,  Court  House,  Public  Offices,  and  Jail. 

"  Mr  John  Baikie  moved  that  the  Memorial  should  be  adopted,  and  that  the  Convener 
of  the  County  should  transmit  it  to  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Sutherland  with  a  request  that  he 
will  be  ple<a.sed,  in  addition  to  the  great  services  he  has  already  rendered  to  this  County,  to 
present  it  to  the  Lords  of  the  Treasury  and  to  give  it  his  support.  Mr  Scarth  seconded  the 
motion,  and  it  was  unanimously  adopted." 

For  some  reason,  good  or  bad,  the  Commissioners  of  Woods  and  Forests  refused  to  listen 
to  the  prayer  of  the  memorialists.  And  this  seems  to  be  a  convenient  place  for  stating  a 
strong  grievance  which  our  county  has  against  the  British  Government. 

The  old  bishopric  lands  were  not  granted  by  the  Crown  for  the  support  of  the  church. 
They  had  been  given  to  the  church,  piece  by  piece  and  time  after  time,  by  pious,  or,  as  some 
would  say,  superstitious  adherents.    Earl  Rognwald's  endowment  t  was  doubtless  the  largest. 

The  bulk  of  these  dedications  are  so  much  older  than  our  oldest  rentals  that  the  gifts 
cannot  be  traced  to  the  donors,  but  one  or  two  of  the  most  recent  are  recorded. 

In  "  The  coppie  of  My  Lord  Sinclairis  Rentale  that  deit  at  Flowdin,"  under  the  heading 
**  Insula  de  Hoy,"  we  read,  "  Benith  the  hill  was  ane  uris  terre  of  the  quhilk  the  first  erle 
henrie  gaif  to  the  vicar  iiijd-terre  for  the  uphald  of  ane  mess  in  hoy  a  day  ilk  oulk  for  ever."* 

Of  Garth  in  Evie  it  is  recorded  "  the  quhilk  Johne  of  Quendaleis  gransire  callit  guidbrand 
aucht,  and  gave  the  said  iiijd-terre  to  the  kirk  of  Evie  for  a  mess  to  be  said  ilk  fryday." 

Thus  the  bishopric  lands  belonged  to  the  church  in  absolute  right  as  fully  as  any  property 
can  belong  to  a  private  citizen.  But  circumstances  favouring,  the  Crown  confiscated  the 
whole,  selling  portions  now  and  then  when  money  was  wanted  for  such  a  purpose  as  the  laying 
out  of  a  public  park  for  the  people  of  London.  And  yet  Government  remains  persistently  deaf 
to  any  appeal  for  assistance  that  comes  from  Orkney. 

*  Pet.  Bent.,  i.  31.  t  Saga,  chap.  Ixii. 


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THE  EABL  S  PALACE.  Qp 

"  While  Britain  parades  her  maternal  care  and  lavish  liberality  even  to  her  distant 
dependencies,  Orkney  has  been  neglected  by  every  public  officer  except  the  tax  gatherer. 
Twice  has  its  right  to  the  income  of  its  own  State  Property  been  officially  recognised  ;  once  bjr 
a  lease  from  George  III.  in  trust  for  its  public  improvements,  27th  July  1776,  and  again  by  ^ 
Treasury  Warrant  for  the  same  purpose  from  George  IV.,  3rd  March  1826 ;  but  the  first  was 
diverted  to  the  sole  use  of  the  lessee  ;  and  the  second  was  evaded  by  a  shuffle  of  Government 
Offices,  and  repudiated  on  the  lawyerly  quibble  that  the  British  Commissioners  of  Woods  and 
Forests  are  not  bound  by  the  obligations  of  the  Scottish  Exchequer.  Instead  of  due  protection 
in  return  for  the  taxation  and  duty  of  subjects,  a  County  which  contributed  6000  seamen  to 
the  British  Navy,  was  denied  one  gunboat  to  guard  its  own  shores  from  the  repeated  insolence 
of  privateers. 

"  Conscious  that  Orkney  was  but  a  pawn  which  might  some  day  be  redeemed  by  the 
rightful  owner,  Scotland,  like  a  temporary  tenant,  scourged  the  precarious  holding  with  unfair 
cropping  and  stinted  outlay  ;  and  Britain,  her  assignee,  discovering  its  capacity  to  produce  an(l 
to  endure,  has  followed  the  same  profitable  precedent  of  chronic  hard  usage.  Even  though 
Scotland  may  have  reduced  Orkney  to  *  the  skeleton  of  a  departed  country,'  Britain  has  still 
found  profit  in  gnawing  the  bones."  * 


APPENDICES  TO  CHAPTER  VII. 
I.— Government  of  Orkney  after  the  Impignoration. 

In  1468,  Orkney  and  Shetland  were  given  to  James  III.  in  pledge  for  the  payment  of  his 
bride's  dowry. 

Three  years  afterwards,  James,  by  an  Act  of  Parliament,  united  the  islands  to  the 
Crown.  This  was  a  mere  formality,  seeing  that  they  still  belonged  to  Denmark ;  but  the  King 
evidently  looked  upon  the  earldom  as  personal  property,  as  he  decreed  that  it  should  not 
henceforth  be  given  to  any  one  but  a  lawful  son  of  the  sovereign. 

In  1489,  Henry,  Lord  Sinclair,  a  son  of  William,  the  last  of  the  St.  Clair  Earls,  got  a 
commission  for  collecting  the  King's  rents,  and  in  1501  this  commission  expanded  into  a 
nineteen  years'  lease.  Lord  Sinclair  died  at  Flodden,  1513,  and  the  lease  was  continued  to 
his  widow. 

In  1630  the  islands  were  given  in  feu  to  James,  Earl  of  Moray,  but  ten  years  afterwards 
they  were  again  annexed  to  the  Crown. 

In  1542  they  were  conferred  by  the  Regent  Arran  upon  the  Earl  of  Huntly,  who  kept 
them  for  thirteen  years,  when  he  was  deprived  by  Queen  Mary. 

In  1566  Mary  gave  a  grant  of  the  earldom  to  her  natural  brother  Lord  Robert  Stewarts 
but  revoked  it  two  years  later  and  gave  it,  with  the  title  of  Duke,  to  James  Hepburn,  Earl  ot 
Bothwell. 

In  1580  Earl  Robert  Stewart  was  reinstated  by  James  VI.,  but  on  account  of  hja 
oppressive  rule,  and  for  disloyalty  to  the  King,  he  was  deprived  in  1686. 

In  1587  Sir  John  Maitland  of  Thirlstane,  Chancellor  of  Scotland,  and  Sir  Ludovic 
Ballenden,  Lord  Justice-Clerk,  got  a  tack  of  the  earldom  revenues,  but  in  1591  the  irrepres- 
sible Lord  Robert  was  a^ain  in  possession,  and  shortly  afterwards  he  got  a  separate  grant  of 
the  bishopric  lands.    This  was  continued  to  his  son,  Patrick,  in  160^). 

In  1606  the  bishopric  was  given  to  James  Law,  who,  for  the  Earl's  Palace,  the  patronage 
of  all  the  churches,  and  a  certain  fixed  revenue,  compounded  with  Patrick  Stewart  for  the 
bishopric  rents. 

Meanwhile  Earl  Patrick  had  borrowed  large  sums  of  money  from  Sir  John  Amot,  whe 
for  security  had  himself  infeft  in  the  earldom,  and  this  infeftment  was  ratified  by  Parliamept, 
1606. 

*  Balfour'B  Odal  Rights  and  Feudal  Wropgs,  p.  76. 


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94  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNBTS. 

In  1612  the  King  bought  up  Sir  John  Arnot's  right,  and  again  the  earldom  was  annexed 
to  the  Crown,  Bishop  Law  naving  the  management  as  Commissioner. 

In  1614  a  Contract  of  Excambion  passed  between  the  King  and  the  Bishop,  the  latter 
resigning  the  whole  of  the  old  bishopric  to  the  Crown,  while  James  guaranteed  Law  and  his 
successors  an  annual  revenue  of  8000  merks  out  of  the  rents  of  seven  and  a  half  parishes. 


11. —The  New  Earldom. 


In  1614,  a  lea.se  of  the  earldom  was  granted  to  Sir  James  Stewart  of  Kilsyth,  afterwards 
Lord  Ochiltree.  "  For  his  oppressive  rule  and  for  tampering  with  the  weights  he  was  deprived 
and  condemned  to  a  long  imprisonment."  * 

In  1622,  Sir  John  Buchanan  of  Scotscraig  was  Farmer-General ;  in  1624.  Sir  George  Hay 
of  Kinfauns,  who  was  followed  by  Napier  of  Merchiston  and  William  Dick  of  Braid. 

In  1643,  '*  King  Charles  the  First,  in  the  midst  of  his  troubles,  granted  these  islands  to 
William,  Earl  of  Morton,  under  the  name  or  in  the  form  of  a  Mortgage  redeemable  by  the 
Crown  on  payment  of  thirty  thousand  pounds  s^ierling."  t 

Under  the  (commonwealth,  Morton  was  deprived ;  but,  in  1662,  Charles  II.  renewed  the 
grant  to  George,  Viscount  Grandison,  as  trustee  for  the  Morton  family. 

In  1669  this  grant  was  reduced  in  an  action  raised  by  the  Lord  Advocate,  Sir  John  Nisbet 
of  Dirleton,  and  the  earldom  was  again  annexed  to  the  Crown. 

In  1707  it  was  restored  to  Morton  by  Queen  Anne,  under  redemption,  for  £30,000  as 
formerly. 

By  Act  of  Parliament,  1742,  the  right  of  redemption  was  withdrawn,  and  a  charter  was 
passed  under  which  Morton  was  in f eft. 

In  1766,  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas,  for  £60.000,  purchased  from  James,  Earl  of  Morton,  the 
Earldom  of  Orkney  and  Lordship  of  Zetland,  obtaining  at  the  same  time  a  charter  from  the 
Crown. 


III.— New  Bishopric. 


Bishop  Graham  succeeded  Law,  1615,  and  held  the  see  till  1638,  when  Episcopacy  was 
disestablished.  The  rents  were  then  farmed  by  Sir  William  Dick.  In  1641,  Robert  Leslie  got 
a  nineteen  years'  lease.  The  year  following,  Leslie  assigned  his  lease  to  the  Ma^strates  of 
Edinburgh,  who  procured  a  charter  from  the  Crown,  which  wa^  subsequently  ratihed  by  Act 
of  Parliament. 

Baikie  of  Tankemess  and  Buchanan  of  Sound  farmed  the  rents  under  the  Town  Council 
of  Edinburgh  from  1652  to  1656,  when  the  latter  died,  and  the  former  continued  tacksman  till 
1660. 

1662,  Episcopacy  re-established. 

1688,  Revolution  followed  by  the  final  disestablishment  of  Episcopacy  in  Scotland. 

1689,  Robert  Elphingston  of  Lopness  collects  the  rents  at  a  salary  of  £200. 

1702-4,  William  Menzies  of  Raws  was  Chamberlain  of  the  bishopric  for  the  University  of 
Aberdeen,  which  had  got  a  lease  in  1699. 

1705-14,  Sir  Alexander  Douglas  of  Egilshay  farmed  the  rents. 

1715  and  16,  Graham  of  Breckness. 

1717-21,  Captain  James  Moodie  of  Melsetter. 

1722-26,  Robert  Honyman  of  Graemsay. 

1727-31,  John  Covingtrie  of  Newark. 

1732-41,  John  Hay  of  Balbethan. 

1742-60,  Andrew  Ross.  In  1760  the  lease  was  renewed  to  Mr  Ross  during  His  Mcgesty's 
pleasure. 

1775,  the  Dundas  family  got  the  bishopric  at  a  rent  of  £50,  and  held  it  till  1825,  since 
when  it  has  been  retained  by  the  Crown. 

*  Fund  Process,  ii.  7.  +  Barry. 


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CHAPTER  VIII. 

Town  Hall. 

fT  is  impossible  now  to  show  when  municipal  government  became  effective  in  Kirkwall,  but 
till  it  did  become  effective  there  was  no  such  thing  as  x)ersonal  freedom  enjoyed  or  even 
understood  by  the  inhabitants.  In  the  old  Norse  days  every  man  was  bound  to  have  a 
master,  the  Earl  himself  acknowledging  the  superiority  of  the  Norwegian  King.  Service  on 
the  part  of  the  man  secured  the  protection  of  the  master,  who,  possibly  himself  a  despot, 
suffered  no  one  else  to  oppress  his  adherents.  A  masterless  man  became  an  outlaw  and  an 
exile. 

After  the  building  of  the  Cathedral,  the  double  town  was  ruled  by  the  Earl  and  the 
Bishop.  Every  man  residing  between  the  Castle  and  the  Shore  was  the  Earl's  man,  and  all 
above  were  vassals  of  the  Church.  Thus  the  division  of  the  townspeople  into  "  Up-the-gates  " 
and  "  Down-the-gates  "  dates  from  the  twelfth  century. 

The  charter  creating  the  little  town  a  Royal  Burgh,  and  therefore  giving  it  a  municipal 
constitution,  was  granted  in  1486,  but  then  and  long  afterwards  the  occupants  of  the  Castle 
and  of  the  Palace  were  too  strong  to  tolerate  popular  government. 

There  is  documentary  evidence,  however,  to  show  that  there  was  "  Ane  Burrow  court 
holden  at  the  said  Burgh  be  Henry  Sinclair,  Proveist ;  James  Reidpest  and  Gilbert  Sclaitter, 
two  of  the  Baillies,"  21st.  Oct.  1549. 

"  Letters  of  Homing  be  Queene  Marie,  daitit  at  Edinr,  the  17  Feb.  1565,"  were  sent  to 
Patrick  Bellenden,  "  Proveist  of  the. said  Burgh." 

The  Stewart  Earls,  Robert  and  Patrick,  sat  as  Provosts  in  the  Burgh  Courts  with  the 
Bailies  and  Councillors. 

We  know  of  "  ane  burrow  court  holden  be  Lord  Robert  Stewart,  Proveist ;  David  Scollay, 
Jon.  Sklaitter,  Thomas  Cumming,  and  William  Bothwell,  Baillies  ;  Nicol  Sinclair,  Deanagill ; 
Archibald  Chalmers,  Thesaurer ;  with  the  Counsall  and  Magnus  Paplay,  Clerk ;  at  which 
tyme  Gaivein  Tailyeor  was  admitted  Burgess  and  Gillbrother  be  ym,  22  Sept.  1567." 

We  have  also  a  sitting  of  "Patrick,  Earl  of  Orkney,  Proveist,"  with  the  Bailies  and 
Council,  20th  Jan.  1604. 

There  is  no  direct  evidence  to  show  where  those  old  provosts  held  their  meetings.  A 
house  at  the  Shore  still  bears  the  name  Tounigar,  and  possibly  it  may  have  been  the  Town 
Hall,  the  quarters  of  the  Town  Guard,  and  the  prison.  In  the  days,  not  very  long  gone  by, 
when  criminals  were  whipped  through  the  town,  the  scourge  was  first  applied  at  the  comer  of 
Shore  Street,  a  few  paces  from  ^  the  House  called  Tounigar." 

But  the  Parliament  House  of  the  Stewart  Earls  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Com- 
mercial Bank,  and  as  late  as  1648  we  find  official  work  being  transacted  there.  "James 
Baikie,  for  a  protestation  in  the  Parliament  Cloase,  one  Pound  Scots."* 

*  Sheriff  Court  Books. 


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96  KIEKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

Nearly  two  centuries  bad  elapsed  from  the  granting  of  the  charter  before  Kirkwall 
asserted  her  position  among  the  Scottish  towns  by  sending  a  Commissioner  to  the  Convention 
of  Royal  Burghs.  This  was  a  kind  of  burghal  parliament.  Hill  Burton  says  :— "  When  we 
first  make  acquaintance  with  it,  it  is  called  the  Court  of  the  Four  Burghs,  Edinburgh, 
Berwick,  Sterling,  and  Roxburgh,  and  it  seemed  to  have  retained  its  old  name  when  other 
burghs  joined.  The  laws  of  the  Four  Burghs  are  more  complete  and  compact  than  any  other 
fragment  of  ancient  legislation  in  Scotland.  The  power  which  this  body  had  is  attested  by  its 
marvellous  tenacity  of  life.  By  degrees  it  absorbed  all  the  royal  burghs  of  Scotland.  Under 
the  name,  '  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs,'  it  continued  to  adjust  questions  about  the  internal 
constitution  of  the  separate  corporations.  This  function  was  superseded  by  the  Burgh  Reform 
Act  of  1833  ;  but  the  Convention  still  duly  meets  every  year  in  Edinburgh,  as  if  to  keep  the 
institution  alive  and  ready  for  action  should  old  powers  ever  revisit  it."* 

One  reason,  doubtless,  for  Kirkwall's  delay  in  joining  the  Convention  is  to  be  found  in  the 
fact  that,  down  to  the  year  1611,  Orkney  continued  to  "bruicke  its  awen  lawes"  as  a 
dependency  of  Denmark.  It  was  during  the  proceedings  against  Earl  Patrick  Stewart  that 
the  Privy  Council  "  took  upon  itself  to  abrogate  the  Scandinavian  laws  and  usages  and  to 
declare  that  the  law  of  Scotland  only  should  be  tolerated  in  Orkney  and  Zetland."  f 

*'  Forsameikle  as  the  Kingis  Mjyesty  and  his  predecessors  of  famous  memory,  with  the 
consent  and  authority  of  thair  Estates  of  Parliament,  has  statute  and  ordainit  that  all  and 
Btindry  the  subjects  of  this  Kingdom  sould  live  and  be  govemit  under  the  lawis  and  statutes 
of  this  realm  allenarly,  and  be  no  law  of  foreign  countries  as  in  the  actis  maid  thairanent  at 
length  is  conteinit;  nochtwithstanding,  it  is  of  verity  that  some  persons  bearing  power  of 
Magistracy  within  the  boundis  of  Orknay  and  Zetland  has  thir  divers  yeirs  bygane  maist 
unlauchfully  tane  upon  thame,  for  thair  own  private  gain  and  commodity,  to  judge  the 
inhabitants  of  the  said  countries  be  foreyne  lawis ;  Thairfoir  the  Lordis  of  secret-council  has 
dischargit,  and  by  the  tennor  hereof  discharges  the  said  foreign  lawis  to  be  no  further  usit 
within  the  said  countries  of  Orknay  and  Zetland,  bot  to  use  the  proper  laws  of  this  Kingdom 
to  His  Majesty's  subjects  in  all  thair  actions  and  causes  as  thai  and  ilk  ane  of  thame  will 
answer  upon  the  contrair  at  thair  heichest  perril."  ^ 

This  Act  of  the  Privy  Council  was  practically  an  assertion  that  the  impignoration  of  1468 
was  now  beyond  redemption  on  the  part  of  Denmark,  and  that  Scotland  had  finally  annexed 
the  islands. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs,  held  in  Edinburgh,  July  1669,  James 
^oncrieff,  Commissioner  from  Kirkwall,  represented  that  the  town  was  created  a  Royal  Burgh 
hf  James  III.,  that  this  was  ratified  by  James  V.,  and  that  their  charter  was  renewed  by 
Charles  II.,  1661,  but,  through  the  oppression  of  the  Earls  and  the  poverty  of  the  place,  they 
could  not  till  now  attend  **  the  burrowes  meetings."  Kirkwall  was  then  enrolled  a  free  Royal 
Burgh. 

Perhaps  the  Town  Council  was  emboldened  to  join  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs  by 
their  Jiaving  recently  acquired  a  Tolbooth  with  accommodation  for  Council  chambers  and  prison. 

In  1669,  Arthur  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  Burgh  Treasurer,  took  from  Qeorge  Linay,  only  son 
oi  Oliver  Linay,  a  lease  of  "  the  house  at  the  foot  of  the  Strynd  with  its  yaird  stretching  to  the 
lane§  leading  to  Pabdale,  togidder  with  the  haill  beds,  buirds,  ambries,  presses,  furmes,  locks, 
keyes,  and  others  presentlie  within  the  said  house."  || 

*  The  historian  refers  the  student  of  municipal  history  to  Sir  James  Marwick's  valuable  work, 
"Records  of  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs,  with  Extracts  from  other  Records  relating  to  the 
afifairs  of  the  Burghs  of  Scotland." — History  of  Scotland,  ii.  90. 

t  Pet.  Notes,  App.,  92.  t  Pet.  Notes,  App.,  63.  §  Now  King  Street. 

II  On  the  sill  of  a  oack  window  of  Dr  Logie's  house  we  have  the  initial  letters,  0.  L. 


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TOWN    HALL.  97 

In  a  sasine  of  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound,  dated  13th  July  1659,  this  house  is  described  as 
"  the  Tenement  of  land  of  old  callit  the-  Ridgeland,  sometyme  pertaining  to  George  Smyth  of 
Rapneas,  now  to  Oliver  Linay,  merchant."  It  formed  the  southern  boundary  of  Buchanan's 
property. 

The  new  Tolbooth  was  fii-st  taken  for  a  year  and  a  half,  at  an  annual  rent  of  '*  fyftie  merk 
guid  and  sufficient  money  of  this  Realme  of  Scotland,"  Baikie  undertaking  to  **  uphold  the 
ruiff  of  the  said  house  water  thight  during  the  said  space,  and  at  the  oxpyreing  of  the  said  tak 
to  have  the  said  tenement  in  als  guid  condition,  at  the  sight  of  honest  newtrall  men,  as  at  his 
entrie  thereto,  and  shall  flitt  and  remove  therefra  without  any  proces  of  law." 

This  was  the  first  of  many  bargains  which  the  Council  made  with  the  Linay  family  about 
this  house. 

What  business  Oliver  Linay  carried  on  does  not  appear.  Alexander  Linay,  barber,  and 
therefore,  in  a  rough  way,  surgeon,  witnesses  a  deed,  19th  March  1631. 

From  George  Linay  this  house  passed  to  his  sister  Anna,  wife  of  Patrick  Murray,  N.P. 
"  Thursday,  about  five  in  morning,  Anna  Linay,  spouse  to  Patrick  Murray,  Notr.  Publick,  was 
delivered  of  a  man  child,  who  was  baptised  Francis."  * 

16th  Dec.  1709. — "The  Magistrates  and  Council  appoynts  Bailly  Richan,  James' M*Kenzie, 
Robert  Pottinger,  and  David  Strang  to  treat  with  Marion  Ritchie,  relict  of  umqll.  Francis 
Murray,  anent  what  she  will  take  for  her  life  rent  of  the  Tolbooth." 

In  four  months  the  committee  were  able  to  report  that  they  had  purchased  from  Mrs 
Murray  her  liferent  interest  in  the  Tolbooth  for  one  hundred  merks  Scots,  and  quitting  her  of 
Cess  on  the  double  tenement  of  land  occupied  by  her  a  little  below  the  Broad  Sands."  t 

For  holding  Council  meetings  and  Burgh  Courts  the  dwelling-house  of  a  Kirkwall  mer- 
chant might  be  .suitable  enough  ;  but  as  a  prison  it  proved  a  sad  failure,  as  witne.ss  the  numerous 
esciipes  recorded.  Thomas  Brown  tells  that  on  a  Sabbath  afternoon  in  time  of  sermon,  two 
men.  Read  and  Gome,  imprisoned  for  theft,  "  made  their  escape  out  of  the  Tolbooth  of 
Kirkwall.  Read  was  that  same  afternoon  apprehended  and  placed  therein  in  the  langirons. 
Gome  went  over  the  Ferrie."t 

The  langirons  of  the  Kirkwall  Tolbooth  have  not  been  preserved,  and  possibly  no 
description  of  them  exists,  but  we  may  form  some  idea  of  the  difficulty  of  flight  with  such 
encumbrances  when  we  read  that  the  langirons  used  by  Earl  Patrick  Stewart  were  stated  at 
the  trial  of  Alyson  Balfour,  "  ane  VVich,"  to  be  fifty  stone  weight. 

From  the  insanitary  condition  of  prisons  generally,  "jail  fever"  was  known  as  a  specific 
malady  all  over  Europe,  and  deaths  in  our  Tolbooth  were  not  uncommon. 

"  About  the  latter  end  of  March  1678,  Alexander  Mowat  of  Lynzie  was  captured  and  put 
in  the  Tolbooth  of  Kirkwall  for  the  payment  of  200  merks  or  thereby,  and  upon  Saturday  abt. 
4  in  the  afternoon  he  departed  this  life  in  the  Tolbooth,  being  the  13th  April,  and  was  buried 
in  St.  Magnus  Kirk  on  Tuesday  yrafter."  § 

In  Brown's  diary,  3rd  Sept.  1681,  we  have  a  reference  to  Patrick  Craigie  of  Wasdale  as 
being  a  prisoner  in  the  Tolbooth,  and  on  26th  Feb.  1682,  "Sabbath  morning,  about  7  or 
yrby,  Pat.  Craigie,  sometyme  Provost  of  Kirkwall,  depd.  this  life  in  the  Tolbooth  of  the  said 
Burgh." 

On  the  other  hand,  Baikie  of  Tankerness  chose  to  remain  a  year  in  the  Tolbooth  on  a 
question  of  debt,  and  was  seemingly  none  the  worse  for  his  incarceration.  || 

"  The  Magistrates  and  Council  appoynts  the  Clerk  of  Court  to  writt  a  letter  to  Robert 

Baikie  of  Tankerness,  to  see  what  course  he  would  fall  upon  for  payment  of  George  Baikie,  his 

•  T.  B.,  23rd  May  1678.  t  C.  R.,  13th  Ap.  1710.  $  May  1687. 

§  T.  B.  II  C.  R.,  28th  Augt.  1710. 


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^8  KIRKWALL   IN   THK   ORKNEYS. 

father,  his  tolbuith  mealla  *  in  regard  his  said  father  has  been  neer  a  year  in  prison,  and  no 
part  of  his  Tolbuith  mealis  payed,  nor  no  oblidgement  granted  therefor,  and  to  demand  ane 
ansr.  from  ye  sd.  Tankerness,  Yr.,  in  writt,  s*)  yt.  the  Magsts.  and  Councill  may  be  satisfied." 

In  1703,  on  the  23rd  of  April,  George  Richan  of  Linklater  placed  in  the  hands  of  Mungo 
Buchanan,  N.P.,  "The  Bill  eftermentionate,  qreof  the  tennor  followes  :— 10£  Star.  Edr.,  16 
March  1703.  Upon  thriedayes«ight  of  this  my  only  bill,  pay  to  Geoi^geRichane  of  Linklater, 
or  ordour,  Ten  pound  Starling  value  on  accompt  with  him,"  (fee.  This  bill  was  not  met.  But 
it  was  a  mere  flea-bite  compared  with  another  debt  incurred  the  same  year. 

In  1709,  the  year  of  the  imprisonment,  there  is  an  acknowledgment  given  by  Robert 
Baikie,  beginning,  "  Forsameikle  as  George  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  my  father,  and  I,  by  Bond 
19  Jany.  1703,  to  Sir  Samuel  McLellan  of  Edr.  or  to  Robert  McLellan  of  Bavelay,  then 
Stewart  of  Orkney,  for  £2961  Scots,"  &c.  Baikie  offers,  by  way  of  security,  to  infeft  "  in 
Holland  in  Stronsay,  Skelwick  and  Gairth  in  Westray,  and  Saverock  and  Quoys  in  St.  Olla.'* 

Doubtless  it  was  in  this  connection  that  Tankerness  went  to  prison,  and  as  the  assets  were 
undoubtedly  good,  the  confinement  must  have  been  made  necessary  by  the  laird's  obstinacy  in 
<K)nnection  with  some  obnoxious  point  in  the  transaction.  This  seems  all  the  more  probable 
43eeing  that  he  refused  to  pay  his  Tolbooth  fees.  There  would  be  no  charge  for  board,  as  his 
meals  would  be  supplied  from  his  own  house. 

The  longest  period  of  imprisonment  recorded  in  Kirkwall  is  that  of  Sir  James  Sinclair  of 
Mey,  who  died  in  the  Tolbooth  after  nine  years'  residence  within  its  walls. 

When  such  prolonged  terms  of  confinement  were  possible,  prison  regulations  +  required  to 
be  judiciously  framed  and  carefully  attended  .to. 

Under  these  rules  the  gaoler  could  add  to  his  pay  pretty  substantially  by  his  perquisites  ; 
while  in  the  Tolbooth  a  prisoner  who  could  afford  to  pay  for  it  was  allowed  an  amount  of 
luxury  which  nowadays  would  not  be  tolerated. 

"11th  March  1680.— It  being  complained  to  the  said  Magistrates  and  Counsell  that  ther  is  ane 
great  abuse  done  in  the  tolbuith  by  these  quha  are  imprisoned  ther,  by  keeping  women  and  men- 
servants  both  night  and  day  in  with  them  as  if  it  were  ther  owen  dwelling-houses,  and  in  keeping  and 
makine  use  of  pots,  pans,  speets,  raxies  and  utheris  as  if  the  same  were  ane  comon  cooke's  nous,  far 
beyond  the  order  kept  in  oyer  Jay  Is  or  tolbuiths,  qch,  if  not  prevented,  may  rise  to  ane  greater  prejudice 
to  the  place.  Therefore,  these  are  discharging  tne  JajUor  to  suffer  any  persone  or  persones  to  stay  m 
ye  sd  tolbuith  after  8  hours  in  the  evening  (except  these  quham  are  prisoners),  and  to  suffer  none  to 
enter  into  ye  sd  tolbuith  to  make  visites  before  8  hours  in  the  morning  or  efter  8  hours  in  ye  evening." 

On  the  other  hand,  it  was  not  at  all  an  uncommon  thing  for  a  prisoner  to  appeal  to  the 
Council  to  be  set  at  liberty,  as  he  had  no  means  of  supporting  himself  and  his  family.  When 
the  prisoner*s  offence  was  not  heinous,  such  a  petition  was  usually  granted,  but  even  then  some 
unfortunates  left  the  gaol  burdened  with  debt  to  their  keeper. 

The  Tolbooth  yard  was  used  by  privileged  burgesses  for  storing  lumber.  "  Oct.  14th, 
Tuesday,  Thomas  Brown  (Town  Clerk)  delivered  the  key  of  the  Tolbuith  to  James  Baikie  of 
Tankerness  for  putting  in  some  Timber  of  the  pryse  broken  up  at  the  aire  of  Kirkwall." 

But  the  Council  Chamber  was  naturally  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  Tolbooth.  In 
the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  cases  were  taken  up  and  adjusted  by  the  Burgh 
Courts  which  now  would  inevitably  go  to  the  Court  of  Session.  At  the  ordinary  meetings  of 
Council,  matters  of  very  grave  public  importance  often  cropped  up;  and  for  the  orderly 
conduct  of  business  a  table  of  strict  standing  orders  and  general  regulations  of  tedious  length 
was  prepared.  J 

One  of  the  most  important  functions  of  Royal  Burghs  was  the  regulation  of  trade  by  the 
granting  of  licenses  to  all  classes  of  traffickers.  This  lay  in  the  hands  of  the  Merchant  Guilds 
*  Fees.  +  See  Appendix  I.  t  See  Appendix  IL 


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TOWN   HALL.  99 

a  corporation  within  the  corporation  having  its  own  Dean  and  Councillors.  The  Guild  drew 
a  sharp  line  between  trading  and  mechanical  pursuits,  and  where  the  two  would  tend  to  com- 
bine, insisted  on  having  them  separated.  Thus  three  clasnes  of  handworkera— dyers,  butchers^ 
and  shoemakers— could  only  be  admitted  Guild  brethren  by  leaving  the  mechanical  part  of 
their  business  entirely  to  hired  operatives,  themselves  attending  solely  to  buying  and  selling  * 

The  Kirkwall  Dean  of  Guild  granted  tnuiing  licenses  to  all  the  merchants  of  Orkney,  and 
without  his  ^*  ticket"  no  man  might  sell  any  kind  of  commodity.  Infringements  of  this  law 
were  smartly  dealt  with,  and  the  buyer  was  liable  to  punishment  where  the  seller  could  n«>t  be 
got  at.    The  treatment  of  offenders  sometimes  i»assed  the  verge  of  oppression. 

A  Kirkwall  doctor  purchased,  for  surgical  uses,  from  a  foreign  vessel,  some  caddis  (lint), 
and  he  was  severely  fined,  the  captain  having  no  ticket  from  the  Guild  Court. 

The  "un free- traders"  gave  great  trouble  to  the  Royal  burghs  individually,  and  to  the 
Conventitm.  This  Court  assessed  each  of  the  towns  in  its  membership,  and  the  Corporation  of 
Kirkwall  was  expected  to  recoup  itself  from  the  fines  of  the  unfree  traders. 

In  1698  our  burgh  was  gt-oaning  under  an  assessment  of  twelve  shillings  per  pound,  which 

could  not  be  collected,  and  after  the  manner  of  the  time  a  party  of  soldiers  was  quartered  on 

the  town's  folk.    In  the  circumstances  they  lay  their  case  before  their  Member  of  Parliament, 

Sir  Alexander  Hume  :  — 

Kirkwall,  18  Auffust  1698. 

Right  Honourable, — We  did  presume,  at  the  advice  of  our  good  and  tnistie  friend,  Sir  William 
Crai^e  of  Gairsay,  to  Imploy  your  Hon.  to  be  Commissioner  for  our  Brugh  to  this  present  Current 
Parliament,  and  we  hear  to  our  great  Vitisfactione  that  vou  have  accept  of  the  same,  for  which  we  doe 
render  due  and  heartie  thanks  :  We  desyre  to  Informe  Yor.  Hon.  ^hat  past  at  the  last  Convention  in 
Pearth,  anno  1697,  concerning  this  poor  bnigh,  that  it  was  at  12  sh.  in  the  taxt  roll,  for  which  there 
la  a  partie  lyeing  upon  us  now,  and  yet  we  are  not  able  to  pay  the  third  pairt  of  that  taxatioune  : 
And  at  that  tyme  there  was  condescension  made  betwixt  the  royal  Burrows  &  Mr  John  Buchan,  agent 
for  them,  for  the  unfrie  tradera.  Efter  which  tyme  he  wrotte  to  us  to  take  ane  subtack  from  him, 
and  to  Improve  the  unfrie  traders  for  our  best  use  for  the  sowme  of  two  thousand  twentie  thrie 
pounds  ten  shillings  six  pennies,  and  that  for  Orkney  and  Zetland,  which  sum  we  were  not  able  to 
nndergoe,  sieing  we  ly  at  sntch  a  distance  from  Zetland,  neither  did  we  accept  of  any  tack  at  that 
time  or  since  ;  And  now  ther  is  a  partie  come  to  quarter  for  sixteen  pounds  starling  upon  the  account 
of  unfrie  traders  due  since  Lambes  1697,  and  we  have  no  Inclinatione  to  Ingadge  with  the  unfrie 
traders  upon  that  acct.  unless  we  get  a  seperatione  of  the  sowmes  betwixt  Orkney  and  Zetland, 
Because  its  notourlie  knowen  by  the  travillers  to  both  countreys  that  Zetland  may  pay  the  two  part 
of  the  sowme,  and  that  we  doe  not. resolve  upon,  any.accompt  tojniddle  with  Zetland's  ptpportione  in 
regard  to  the  distance  of  place.  But,  Hon.  Sir,  it  is  or  desyre  that  our  proportione  for  Orkney  may 
be  separat  from  2!etland'8  proportione  and  modified  proportionablie  to  the  esteate  and  conditione  of 
the  small  number  and  poor  unfrie  traders  within  this  countrey.  And  then  we  shall  endevour  as  farre 
as  we  can  to  sett  quarterlie  payment  to  the  agent  of  the  Bnrrowes  of  the  proportione  for  Orkney  as  it 
shall  be  modified,  out  for  Zetland  we  resolve  not  to  meddle  with  it  upon  any  termes.  My  Lord,  this 
our  earnest  desyre  is  recommendit  to  your  care,  and  expects  you  will  be  myndfnll  in  this  affair  which 
is  our  present  concernment,  And  we  shall  ever  wish  all  prosperitie  and  happines  to  you  and  all  yours, 
and  shall  continew  Your  Most  Humble  and  Obedient  Servants. 

Honourable  Sir,  if  ther  be  not  a  reasonable  ease  srantit  to  us  for  the  unfrie  traders  within  this 
countrey,  we  cannot  upon  any  accompt  meddle  with  the  same,  And  in  the  meantyme,  for  our  better 
Infonnatione,  crave  your  Hon.  advyce  heiriu  with  the  first  occasion  how  we  shall  walk. 

Printed  forms  intimating  what  the  Convention  required  from  individual  burghs  were 
issued,  and  subjoined  is  the  subject  of  the  above  complaint : — 

I,  Mr  John  Buchan,  Agent  to  the  Boj/al  Burrows,  In  Obedience  to  an  Act  of  General  Convention 
of  Burrows,  holden  at  Edinburgh  the  18th  of  November  1697  years,  Ordaining  me  to  srant  Subtacks  to 
the  Boyal  Burrows,  and  then  to  accept  of  the  same  in  the  Terms  and  upon  the  Conoutions  mentioned 
in  the  said  Act,  Do  therefore  hereby  Assign  and  Dispone  to  and  their  Successors  in  Ofiice, 

the  whole  Fines  and  Compositions  payaole  by  the  Unfree-Traders  and  others  having  Benefite  by 
Trade  within  Orknay  i&;"Z^tliuid,  as  also,  the  Fynes  of  Free  Men,  Loading  and  Livermg  at  Unfree 

♦  Hill  Burton,  ii.  93. 


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100  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEyS. 

ports,  and  Partners  with  Unfree  Men  in  ships,  or  loadning,  Conform  to  the  Acts  of  the  General 
Coin^eiitioji  at  Dundee  in  Juli/  1692,  The  Act  of  Communication  of  Trade  in  anno  1693,  several  Decreers 
of  the  Lords  of  Session,  Proclamation  of  Privy  Council  (upon  a  Taxt  Roll  of  the  Unfree  Traders  of  the 
respective  Shires),  and  Act  of  the  late  Convention  at  Perth  in  Juiy  last  1697,  And  to  the  said  Acts, 
Decreets,  and  Proclamation  as  far  as  the  samen  can  be  extended  to  the  said  Stewartrie.  For  the 
which  Causes,  The  said  and  their  foresaids  are  oblieged  by  the  said  Act,  18  November  1697,  to 

pay  to  me,  my  Heirs,  Executors,  or  Assignies  the  Summ  of  Eightie-four  Punds  Scots  Money  quarterly, 
beginning  at  LammeHa  last,  Aye  and  until  the  summ  of  Two  Thousand  and  Twentie-thrie  Punds  Ten 
Shilling  and  Six  Pennies  Money  foresaid,  resting  be  the  Unfree  Trailers  within  the  said  Shire  for  Cess 
and  Missive  Dues,  from  Lambm^jw  One  thousand  six  hundred  and  ninety-two  to  Whiteminday  1697, 
inclusive,  be  payed  in  to  me  and  my  foresaids,  with  Annual  rents,  from  the  Term  of  MartinmoHH  last ; 
As  also  (for  the  Term  of  LamhmeHH  last,  and  in  time  coming,  dureing  the  last  Tack  set  to  me  at  Ptrthy) 
They  and  their  foresaids  are  oblieged  to  pay  the  cess  and  Missive  Dues,  Corresponding  to  the  Taxt 
Roll  of  the  said  Shire,  in  manner  specified  in  said  Act  of  Burrows,  Consenting  to  the  Registration 
hereof  in  the  Hooks  of  Council  ana  Session,  or  any  other  Judges  Competent,  therein  to  remain  ad 
Juluram  rei  mtmoriam,  and  Constitutes  My  Procurators.     In  Witness  Whereof,  I  have  Sub- 

scribed these  presents  at  Edinburgh,  the  Elleventh  day  of  January  One  thousand  six  hundred  and 
ninety -eight  years,  before  thir  Witnesses,  George  Buchan,  my  son,  and  Alx.  J.  Paterson,  my 
Servitour.  (Signed)        Jo.  Buchax. 

(Signed)        Geo.  Buchan,  Witnes. 

(Signed)        Alx.  J.  Paterson,  Witnes. 

If  Kirkwall  was  punished  by  having  a  party  of  soldiers  quartered  on  it,  the  Dean  of  Guild 
and  his  Court  were  sometimes  able  to  turn  the  men  to  account.  A  list  of  unfree  traders  was 
given  to  the  officer  in  command,  and  he  sent  his  men  to  take  free  quarters  in  the  houses  of  the 
delinquents  : — "  Sergeant  Blair,  by  warrant  from  the  Magistrats  of  Kirkwall,  you  are  heirby 
ordered  to  quarter  upon  the  forenamed  persones,  unfree  traders,  qll  further  order.  Subt.  at 
Kirkw.iU  the  sixteen  day  of  Septr.  1698.— Geo.  Spence,  Clk." 

A  party  had  been  sent  to  South  Ronaldshay,  and  Sir  Archibald  Stewart  of  Burray 
put  in  a  protest  addressed  to  "  William  Young,  Bailie,  or  in  his  absence,  ane  of  the  Magistrats 
upon  the  place": — 

Sir, — I  am  told  by  my  tennauts  in  Southronaldshaw  that  your  brongh  hath  ordered  quartering  on 
them  as  unfree  traders.  This  is  to  advais  you  that  ther  is  non  of  them  hath  any  tred  farther  than  to 
sell  what  oylle  and  fishes  they  tack  with  ther  own  hands  out  of  the  seas  and  then  sells  them  whear 
they  can  get  the  best  price,  or  then  ipveth  it  to  me  for  ther  land  de^  ty,  and  I  know  no  law  forbids 
me  to  dispose  of  my  rents  any  place  I  pleas.  If  ther  be  one  of  them  have  any  further  tred  I  am  weell 
pleased  all  the  extremity  of  the  law  be  used  asainst  them,  but  you'll  exous  me  not  to  suffer  my 
teonants  to  meet  with  injustice  from  any  body  if  I  can  help  it.  If  ye  proseed  to  poimd  I  shall  not 
opos  you,  bnt  expects  reparation  from  the  Counsell,  to  whom  (cost  what  it  will)  I  will  mean  my  selfe 
befor  the  least  of  them  sufier  wrong.  I  desire  ye  will  communicat  this  to  the  rest  of  your  number  and 
let  me  have  your  answer  by  this  berer,  which  will  oblidj, — Sir,  your  reall  friend  and  Servant, 

(Signed)        Arch.  Stewart. 

Burray,  the  last  day  of  Agust  1698. 

The  answer  returned  by  bearer  was : — 

Kirkwall,  Last  Augt.  1698. 

Honourable  Sir, — Wee  receaved  yours  wherein  ye  wrotte  to  us  anent  some  of  your  teneuts  in 
Southronaldshay.  Yesterday  ther  came  four  or  fyve  men  of  that  ylle  to  toune  and  spoak  to  us  (whose 
tennents  they  were  wee  know,  not),  and  desyres  to  be  admittit  friemen  within  our  brugh.  But,  efter 
comouning  with  them,  they  and  wee  could  not  aggrie  as  to  ther  friedome,  so  that  we  desyred  them  to 
goe  home  and  take  ther  hazard  as  others,  and  as  to  what  traide  they  have,  whether  export  or  import, 
wee  are  strangers  to  itt  as  yet.  But,  if  they  be  found  to  come  within  the  compass  of  unfrie  tredders, 
they  w  ill  be  liable  according  to  law.  This,  with  or.  humble  service  to  yorself ,  Lady,  and  faniallie, 
is  all  from,  Honourable  Sir,  yor  most  humble  Servants. 

The  separate  burghs  being  controlled  by  the  Convention,  the  Dean-of-Guild  and  his 
Court  were  not  altogether  free  agents  in  dealing  with  these  unlicensed  merchants. 

4th  Oct,  1714.— "There  was  presented  in  Council  by  John  Covingtrie,  Bailie,  their  late 
Commissioner  to  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burrows  held  in  Edinburgh  in  July  last,  ane  act  of 


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TOWN   HALL.  101 

the  said  Royal  Burrows  in  favours  of  this  Burgh,  conjoining  ane  gift  of  the  Unfree  Traders 
of  Orkney  and  Zetland  for  three  years  preceding  the  said  Act  and  four  years  thereafter,  and 
Impouring  the  Magistrates  of  this  Burgh  to  pursue  the  Unfree  Traders  in  Orkney  and  Zetland 
for  their  Unfree  Trading,  and  to  compone,  transact,  and  agree  with  them  thereanent  for  the 
foresaid  space,  and  apply  what  shall  be  recovered  for  behoove  of  the  said  Burgh." 

The  trading  licenses  varied  in  degree  from  the  humble  Chapman's  ticket,  which  was  much 
the  same  as  the  hawker's  license  of  the  present  day,  to  the  double  qualification  of  Burgess' 
and  Guild  Brother's  ticket,  which  gave  all  the  liberty  in  trade  that  the  burgh  could  bestow. 

The  cost  of  the  licenses  varied  not  only  according  to  the  kind  of  ticket  granted,  but  also 
according  to  the  means  of  the  applicant,  who  generally  assessed  himself. 

On  the  17th  August  1698,  William  Halcro,  merchant  in  Orphir,  oflFered  £50  Scots  for  his 
"  freedom  "—£36  "  in  hand,"  and  a  bond  for  fourteen  to  be  paid  at  Candlemas.  Two  days 
later,  James  Millar,  merchant  in  Birsay,  oflFers  10  rix-dollars  down,  which  was  accepted  ;  John 
Stewart,  Orphir,  £48  ;  David  Flett  of  Gruthay,  £40  ;  John  Flett,  his  brother,  £30.  Alex- 
ander Sutherland,  St.  Margaret's  "Houp,"  offered  £20,  and  "the  Magistrates  and  counsill 
(having  taken  the  sd.  Alexr.  his  mean  conditione  to  their  consideratione  with  the  offer  made) 
they  accept  of  his  sd.  offer  in  respect  of  his  mean  stock." 

While  the  Council  was  willing  to  consider  the  poor  man's  case,  they  dealt  smartly  with 
anything  like  uppLshness.  At  a  Court  held  11th  March  1670,  John  Richan,  who  came  of  a 
wealthy  family  of  dyers,  "  declared  he  was  not  frie  to  declare  whate  trade  he  would  take  him 
to,  which  being  considered,  the  saids  Magistrate  gave  him  till  Lambes  to  give  his  positive 
answer,  and  ordained  him  to  give  fourtie  pound  Scots,  ayr  be  bond  or  money." 

One  clause  in  the  burgess  oath  points  to  what  might  have  been  an  easy  evasion  of  a  Guild 
Brother's  duty—"  I  shall  not  colour  unfreeman's  goods  under  colour  of  my  own." 

These  tickets  had  reference  in  some  degree  to  the  geographical  range  of  a  merchant's 
business.  4th  Nov.  1709,  "  Those  who  have  trade  only  to  Inverness  or  Zetland  should  have 
only  chopman's  ticquets,  and  for  a  lesser  sum  than  those  who  pack  and  peill  in  foreign  com- 
modities to  Leith  or  further,  and  have  guild  brothers'  ticquets." 

Complimentary  tickets  were  also  granted. 

The  clerk  was  instructed  to  WTite  for  "  Harrie  Moncrieff  a  gentleman  Burgess  ticket  in 
Latiii,"  18th  March  1702. 

"  The  quhilk  day,*  the  puts,  abovenamed  t  doth  enact  and  ordaine  that  no  persone  or 
jKjrsones  be  admitted  f rieman  burges  efter  the  date  heirof  gratis,  ay,  and  whill  the  brugh  be 
outred  and  fred  from  their  publick  debt,  and  that  becaus  of  the  great  burden  and  debts  the 
brugh  is  now  resting,  and  yt.  uther  weightie  concerns  to  be  exped,  which  by  all  appearance 
will  stand  great  expenses.  —/S'tc  Sub,^  Tho.  Wilsone,  bailie ;  A.  Baikie,  bailie;  D.  Monceibpf, 
bailyie." 

The  rule  was  not  adhered  to. 

The  freedom  of  the  burgh  has  been  given  to  many  illustrious  visitors,  including  one 
member  of  the  Royal  Family,  Alfred,  Duke  of  Edinburgh. 

Among  distinguished  names  of  recent  date,  there  are  enrolled,  W.  E.  Gladstone,  Alfred 
Tennyson,  W.  H.  Smith,  First  Lord  of  the  Treasury  ;  Viscount  Peel,  and  Lord  Wolseley. 

The  most  magnificent  presentation  recorded  was  that  to  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas  in  1768, 
when  the  burgess  ticket  was  given  in  a  silver  box  "  made  upon  the  town's  expense." 

At  the  election  of  a  member  of  Parliament  for  the  Northern  Burghs,  each  of  the  others 
sent  a  Commissioner  to  that  burgh  in  which  the  election  was  to  take  place.  In  June  1709, 
Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  one  of  the  bailies,  was  sent  to  Tain  as  Commissioner  from 
*  19th  March  1670.        t  Bailies  and  CJouncillors. 


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102  KIRKWALL   IN%  T«£'Q&KN^TS. 

Kirkwall,  taking  with  him  a  blank  burgess  ticket  to  be  filled  in  with  the  name  of  the 
successful  candidate. 

In  April  1784,  during  the  civic  reign  of  Provost  Riddoch,  Kirkwall  was  the  returning 
burgh,  and  here  the  Commissioners  for  the  Burghs  of  Kirkwall,  Tain,  Dingwall,  Dornoch,  and 
Wick  did  "freely  and  indifferently  elect  and  choose  the  Right  Honourable  Charles  James 
Fox,  a  burgess  of  the  Borough  of  Kirkwall,  to  attend  and  serve  in  the  ensuing  Parliament  of 
Great  Britain  for  the  said  class  or  district  of  Boroughs  above-mentioned." 

In  this  remarkable  election  there  were  two  candidates.  Fox  and  John  Sinclair  of  Ulbster. 
Fox  was  proposed  by  Provost  Riddoch,  who  was  supported  by  Colonel  Ross  as  representing 
Tain,  and  Duncan  Munro  from  Dingwall ;  while  John  Sutherland,  Wick,  and  John  Gordon, 
from  Dornoch,  voted  for  Ulbster  ;  consequently  Fox  got  in  by  three  to  two. 

The  state  of  public  feeling  in  Kirkwall  over  this  contest,  as  shown  by  the  public  records, 
has  been  given  at  length  by  a  recent  writer,*  but  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  notice  here  the 
])olitical  necessity  that  made  Fox  contest  the  burghs. 

Lord  North,  whose  arbitrary  dealings  with  the  American  colonies  had  brought  on  the 
War  of  Independence,  was  at  the  time  the  most  unpopular  man  in  England,  and  it  was  feared 
that  Fox,  who  had  lately  been  in  coalition  with  North,  would  share  that  unpopularity,  and  so 
find  himself  without  a  seat  in  the  new  Parliament. 

In  Westminster,  three  candidates — Lord  Hood,  Mr  Fox,  and  Sir  Cecil  Wray — competed 
for  two  seats,  Admii*al  Hood  and  Sir  Cecil  Wray  were  on  the  Ministerial  side  ;  Fox  repre- 
sented the  Opposition.  The  polling  began  on  the  first  day  of  April,  and  continued  till  the 
seventeenth  of  May.  It  was  the  longest  and  fiercest  election  contest  that  ever  took  place  in 
England,  and  the  history  of  its  progress  from  day  to  day  has  been  preserved.  The  Ministerial 
candidates  had  not  only  the  sympathy  but  the  active  support  of  the  King,  George  the  Third. 
All  the  Court  servants  were  ordered  to  vote  for  Hood  and  Wray  ;  every  tradesman  patronised 
by  the  King  was  compelled  to  take  the  same  side,  and  a  body  of  two  hundred  and  eighty 
Guards  was  marched  down  to  poll  for  the  King's  friends. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  Prince  of  Wales  exerted  all  his  influence  in  favour  of  Fox. 
Ladies  took  part  in  the  work.    The  beautiful  Duchess  of  Devonshire  canvassed  for  Fox. 

**  Arciiyed  iainatohlesa  beauty,  Devon's  fair 
In  Fox's  favour  takes  a  zealous  part ; 
But  oh  !  where'er  the  pilferer  comes,  beware, 
She  supplicates  a  vote  and  steals  a  heart." 

Lady  Buckinghamshire  took  the  field  for  Hood  and  Wray.  She  had  more  weight — 
avoirdupois — than  the  Duchess,  and  the  opposite  side  had  the  bad  taste  to  call  her  Madam 
Blubber.    Her  successes  are  also  recorded  : — 

"  A  certain  lady  I  won't  name, 

Must  take  an  active  part,  sir, 
To  show  that  Devon's  beauteous  dame 

Should  not  eneaffe  each  heart,  sir. 
She  canvassed  afi,  both  great  and  small, 

And  thundered  at  each  door,  sir  ; 
She  rummaged  every  shop  and  stall, 

But  the  Uuchess  was  still  before,  sir." 

Lord  Hood  brought  up  a  party  of  sailors  to  protect  his  voters,  which  they  did  by 
knocking  down  those  on  the  other  side.  This  was  very  effective  for  a  day  or  two,  but  the 
Duchess  was  equal  to  the  occasion.  At  that  time  the  Sedan  chair  was  the  most  fashionable 
mode  of  conveyance  for  short  distances,  and  there  was  in  the  West  End  of  London  a  small 

*  Mackintosh,  Curious  Incidents,  244. 


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TOWN  HALL.  103 

army  of  chairmen,  mostly  Irish.  These  were  easily  induced  by  a  beautiful,  fashionable,  and 
liberal  patroness  to  favour  her  cause,  and,  falling  upon  the  sailors  with  their  chair  poles, 
they  drove  them  from  the  field.  From  this  time  faction  fights  became  a  daily  feature  in  the 
struggle.  When  at  length  the  poll  was  declared,  Fox  stood  next  to  Hood,  and  though  by 
Provost  Riddoch's  influence  he  had  already  been  elected  for  the  Wick  Burghs,  he  naturally 
preferred  to  sit  for  the  constituency  whieh  had  fought  so  hard  for  him. 

George  Ross  of  Cromarty  was  elected  1786,  and  was  followed  the  same  year  by  Sir 
Charles  Ross  of  Balnagowan. 

Some  of  the  demands  of  the  Royal  Burghs  seem  not  only  unreasonable,  but  unworkable, 
looked  at  under  modern  light.  "  The  Council  appoint  to  be  published  through  the  town,  by 
tuck  of  Drumb  to-morrow,  that  Act  concerning  traders  and  merchants  having  trade  to  reside 
with  their  family  within  Royal  Burrows  at  least  eight  months  of  the  year."* 

"  As  far  back  as  the  year  1719,"  a  definite  proportion  of  the  cess  imposed  upon  Kirkwall 
by  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs  was  collected  from  Stromness.  The  proportion  was  one- 
third,  amounting,  one  year  with  another,  to  about  £200  Scots— £16  13s  4d  stg.  t 

The  excuse  for  this  assessment  was  that  "  the  inhabitants  of  Stromness  reap  great  benefit 
from  foreign  trade,"  which  was  by  statute  the  exclusive  privilege  of  the  Royal  Burghs.  For 
twenty-three  years  Stromness  paid  this  tax,  the  Convention  rating  Kirkwall  a  third  higher 
than  would  otherwise  have  been  done.  "  In  1742,  Alexander  Graham,  a  public-spirited  man, 
with  two  or  three  more  of  the  traders  of  Stromness,  thought  fit  to  refuse  to  pay  their  shares  of 
the  cess  laid  on  for  that  year,  which  encouraged  the  other  inhabitants  in  like  manner  to  with- 
draw their  payment." 

"  Upon  this  the  Burrow  of  Kirkwall,  having  brought  an  Action  against  the  Recusants 
before  the  Stewart  Court  for  the  payment  of  the  Stent  imposed  upon  them  respectively,  they 
obtained  Decreet  against  them." 

The  defenders  went  to  the  Court  of  Session,  where  it  was  decided  that  "  the  Burrow  of 
Kirkwall  could  not  by  Law  impose  any  part  of  the  Cess  on  the  inhabitants  of  Stromness." 

Kirkwall,  now  suffering  under  excessive  taxation  in  having  to  pay  the  third  imposed  upon 
Stromness,  a])pealed  in  1745  to  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs.  On  this  the  Convention 
ordered  their  agent  to  join  with  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  in  pursuing  the  inhabitants  of 
Stromness,  "  concluding  for  Payment  of  the  Values  of  the  Goods  which  had  been  imported  or 
exported  by  them  unlawfully  "  since  1742. 

All  Scotland  was  interested  in  the  struggle.  The  only  parallel  case  had  been  a  futile 
attempt  on  the  part  of  Greenock  to  escape  from  the  tyranny  of  Glasgow.  J 

The  Convention,  by  their  agent,  having  gone  into  Court,  this  became  really  the  test  case 
on  which  depended  the  retention  or  the  loss  of  the  peculiar  privileges  of  the  Royal  Burghs. 
They  asserted  that  "  the  Law  still  continues  as  it  did  before  the  Union,  that  the  privilege  of 
foreign  trade  belongs  to  the  Royal  Burrows  only,  and  to  such  as  have  purchased  a  Communi- 
cation of  Trade  from  them.  And  as  it  is  impossible  to  conceive  any  thing  more  unjust  than 
it  would  have  been  for  the  Legislature  to  have  deprived  the  Royal  Burrows  of  their  privileges, 
and  at  the  same  time  to  leave  them  subject  to  the  heavy  burdens  to  which  they  had  been 
formerly  liable  ;  so  it  is  to  be  observed  that  it  is  expressly  provided  by  the  21st  Act  of  the 
Union  that  the  rights  and  privileges  of  the  Royal  Burrows  in  Scotland  as  they  now  are  shall 
remain  intire  after  the  Union,  and  notwithstanding  thereof." 

♦  C.  R.,  9th  Oct.  1717. 

t  CJase  for  Stromness,  Court  of  Session,  favoured  by  J.  W.  Cursiter,  Esq. 

X  Not  only  Burghs  of  Reality  and  of  Barony,  but  merchants  and  shipowners  all  over  the  country, 
were  deeply  interested  in  having  the  monopoly  of  the  foreign  trade  taken  from  the  Royal  Burghs. 


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104  KIRKWALL   IN   THEf  ORKNEYS. 

The  position  of  Stromness,  as  stated  for  Alexander  Qraham  and  those  who  adhered  to 
him,  was  : — 

*'  The  inhabitants  of  Stromness,  by  their  position  upon  the  Pentland  Firth,  have  been  frequently 
iinder  a  kind  of  necessity  of  dealing  in  foreign  commodities,  upon  occasion  of  sliips  putting  into  their 
harbour  for  want  of  provisions  and  other  necessaries,  which  the  crews  of  these  ships  could  not  purchase 
in  any  other  way  than  by  barter  or  exchange  of  such  commodities  as  they  have  on  board.  And  as  it 
would  have  been  barbarous  and  inhumane  in  the  respondents  to  have  refused  such  commerce,  they 
came  under  the  necessity  of  disposing  of  such  inconsiderable  quantities  of  foreign  commodities  as 
came  into  their  hands. 

"  These  trifling  and  accidental  purchases  long  since  afforde<i  a  handle  to  the  Magistrates  of  Kirk- 
wall, imder  the  colour  of  the  statutes  made  against  unfree  traders,  to  oppress  and  harass  the 
itihabitants  of  Stromness.  To  be  freed  from  these  vexations,  the  inhabitants  of  this  village  were 
uduced,  in  the  1719,  to  undertake  a  considerable  proportion  of  the  annual  taxation  laid  upon  the 
Bur^h  of  Kirkwall,  in  order  to  have  a  Communication  of  Trade  ;  which  taxation,  though  unable,  they 
continued  to  pay  till  the  1742. 

"  But  at  last,  finding  this  taxation,  which  was  above  £200  Scot  a  yearly,  to  })e  a  burden  too  heavy, 
apd  quite  unequal  to  any  profit  they  had  upon  the  occa«ional  tratfick  they  had  before  mentioned, 
they  withdrew  the  pavnient  thereof. 

"  This  oflfende<l  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall  to  a  gvait  degree,  and  provoke<l  them  to  vex  and  harass 
the  respondents  in  various  shapes,  particularly  by  two  processes  before  this  Court,  from  which  the 
respondents  were  relieved  by  your  Lordships'  justice. 

*'  But  though  the  respondents  gained  the  law,  the  expences  of  their  defence  made  them  rather 
chuse  to  submit  to  reasonable  terms,  if  such  could  be  ha<l,  than  to  be  longer  subject e<l  to  an  unequal 
fight  with  the  Common  (iootl  of  a  Royal  Borough.  And,  therefore,  in  the  1751,  they  made  proposals 
to  the  Convention  of  Boroughs  that  they  were  willing  to  pay  for  the  Communication  of  Trade  a  sixth 
part  of  the  taxation  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  providing  that  should  be  their  fixed  proportion  in  time 
to  come,  and  that  they  should  not  be  subject  to  the  caprice  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  or  to  the 
influence  that  Burgh  might  have  on  the  Convention  of  Boroughs,  to  alter  or  increase  that  proportion 
at  their  pleasure.  Bnt  these  reasonable  terms  were  not  listened  to  ;  and  the  Convention  would  grant 
to  the  respondents  the  Communication  of  Trade  upon  these  two  conditions  only  : — let.    The  re- 

rndents  paying  up  all  bygones  to  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall  from  the  year  1742,  at  the  rate  they  paid 
t  year.  And,  2dly,  that  they  should  relieve  the  Town  of  KirkwaU  of  one-third  of  what  was 
then  charged  on  them  or  might  be  charged  upon  them  afterwards  in  the  Tax -Roll  ;  with  poorer  to 
the  Convention  to  increase  or  diminish  this  proportion  accordingly,  as  trade  should  increase  or 
decrease  in  their  respective  places. 

**  These  conditions  were  so  severe  as  to  be  equal  to  an  explicit  denial  of  the  Communication  of 
Trade.  For  how  could  it  be  expected  that  the  respondents,  who  were  no  body  corporate,  could  under- 
take to  pay  several  years'  bygones  for  a  trade  which  others  who  were  now  dead  and  gone  had  the 
benefit  of,  and  which  amounted  to  a  sum  too  considerable  for  the  pockets  of  these  villagers  ?  Or, 
2dlv,  how  could  the  respondents,  who  have  no  representative  or  vote  in  the  Convention  of  l^ronghs, 
as  Kirkwall  has,  submit  to  an  arbitrary  increase  of  their  proportion  of  the  taxation  at  the  pleasure  of 
the  Convention?  And  thus  the  respondents  were  unjustl}'  debarred  from  the  Communication  of 
Trade," 

The  Court  of  Session  decided  in  favour  of  Stromness,  and  the  Convention  of  Royal 
Burghs,  now  fighting  for  dear  life,  took  the  case  to  the  Honse  of  Lords.  It  was  heard  on 
Monday  the  I6th  of  January  1758,  and  the  finding  was  practically  that  Kirkwall  must  hence- 
forth cease  from  taxing  Stromness.  In  point  of  fact,  and  freely  admitted  by  counsel  for 
Stromness,  the  cess  was  laid  on,  not  by  Kirkwall,  but  by  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs. 

It  is  worthy  of  notice  that  Stromness,  in  resisting  taxation  by  the  Convention  of  Royal 
Burghs  because  she  had  no  representative  in  that  Council,  was  asserting  the  principle  on 
which,  some  twenty  years  later,  the  American  colonists  took  their  stand,  and  inspired  by  which 
they  fought  their  way  to  independence. 

Though  the  ordinary  duties  of  a  Town  Conncil  are  not  generally  interesting,  there  were 
occasions  when  the  Magisterial  work  of  Kirkwall  was  stirring,  and  even  picturesque.  Such  an 
imposing  function  as  the  riding  of  the  marches  occasioned  some  excitement  in  the  town  : — 

"  Kirkwall,  the  twentie-fourth  day  of  Juli,  One  Thousand  Seven  Hundred  and  Six  yeires. 
"  Sederunt — David  Traill  of  Sabay,  provist,  with  three  bailies  and  eight  councillors. 


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Tv>WN   HALL.  105 

"  The  quhilk  Day  the  Magistrates  and  Council,  with  a  great  many  of  the  respective  Burgesses 
and  several  others  of  the  communities  having  all  met  and  convened  at  the  Tolbooth  of  the  foresaid 
Burgh,  in  obedience  to  their  sederunt  of  the  12th  instant,  and  proclamation  following  thereon  appoint- 
ing and  ordaining  the  haill  Council,  Burgesses,  and  others  respective  persons  withm  Bui*gh  to  meet 
and  be  in  readiness  and  furnished  with  horses  and  furniture  to  attend  the  Magistrates  for  riding  and 
viewing  the  Town's  Marches  this  day.  And  after  meeting  in  Council,  the  saids  Magistrates,  Council, 
and  Community  convened,  went  from  the  Tolbooth  of  the  said  Burgh  to  the  Market  Cross  of  the 
same.  And  having  their  horses  in  readiness  standing  there,  they  did  all  mount  at  the  said  Cross,  and 
did  ride  from  that  forward  through  the  North  Common  loan  about  both  the  quoys  called  St. 
Katherine's  Quoys,  and  from  that  to  the  House  of  Weyland,  where  they  halted  a  while  on  horseback ; 
at  which  House  of  Weyland,  George  Spence,  Clerk  of  the  said  Burgh,  held  forth  to  the  Provost, 
Bailies,  and  Council  that  the  bam  of  Weyland  was  built  upon  the  freedom  of  the  said  Burffh,  and 
thereby  encroachment  was  made  upon  the  foresaid  privileges,  to  which  it  was  answered  by  the  said 
Dvivid  Traill  of  Sabay.  Provost,  that  it  was  well  enough  known  that  the  said  bam  was  built  upon  the 
privileges  foresaid,  but  that  those  who  had  built  the  said  bam,  and  had  thereby  encroached  as  said 
IB,  had  long  before  now  agreed  with  the  Town  therefor. 

*'  And  thereafter  the  saids  Provost,  Bailies,  Council,  and  Community  did  all  of  them  ride  forward 
to  the  shore  of  Camess  northward,  being  beyond  the  holm  called  Thievesholm,  and  went  beneath  the 
floodmark  of  the  said  Ness  and  fenced  an  Admiral  Court  there  in  Her  Majesty's  name  and  in  name  of 
the  Provost  and -Bailies  of  Kirkwall  there  present -as  admirals  of  that  boumls,  as  havina  rights  thereto 
by  several  charters  under  the  Great  Seal,  two  of  which  charters  was  produced  and  publicly  read  with 
a  ratification  of  the  same,  and  of  two  other  charters  in  favours  of  the  said  Burgh  by  the  parliament, 
which  ratification  is  dated  the  day  of  sixteen  hundred  three  score  ten  years.     And  caused 

search  (after  fencing  the  said  Court)  if  there  were  any  wreck  goods  there.  And  thereafter  the  saids 
Provost,  Bailies,  Council,  Burgesses,  and  Community  did  all  of  them  again  mount  their  horses  and 
did  ride  along  the  Marches  belonging  to  their  Bur|^  Southward  to  the  outer  dyke  of  Pabdale  ;  on  the 
east  side  thereof  there  the  said  George  Spence,  Clerk,  did  hold  forth  that  encroachment  was  made 
upon  the  privileges  of  the  said  Town  there  by  flitting  out  of  the  head  dyke  a  great  way  from  the  old 
bow  or  old  head  dyke  eastward.  Whereupon  the  Magistrates  and  Council  caused  the  officers  of  Court 
break  down  a  part  of  the  said  divot  and  feal  of  the  said  dyke  so  built  upon  their  privileges,  and 
appointed  Alexander  Baikie  of  Pabdale,  who  being  then  and  there  present,  to  remove  that  dyke  which 
he  or  his  predecessors  had  encroached  upon  the  Town's  privileges,  and  discharged  the  said  Alexander 
from  any  farther  encroaching  upon  the  privileges  of  Kirkwall  in  any  time  coming.  Whereunto  it  was 
answered  bv  the  said  Alexander  Baikie  that  he  craved  a  certain  day  might  be  assigned  him  for  pro- 
duction of  his  charters  to  the  effect  his  bounding  might  be  known.  The  Magistrates  assigned  the  said 
Alexander  the  day  of  for  that  effect.     And  after  the  saids  Magistrates  and  Council 

their  interruption  at  the  dyke  upon  the  east  side  of  Pabdale,  they  all  went  forward  to  the  dykes  of 
Whiteford  southeastward,  and  from  that  southwards  to  the  Meadows  of  Laires,  and  southward  from 
that  to  that  part  of  the  hill  called  Daillspott,  being  near  to  the  extremest  part  of  the  hill  called 
Kirkwall  Hill,  belonging  to  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  towards  the  South,  and  did  there  cause  their  said 
clerk  fenae-ane  Town  Coiupt-in  Her  •Majesty's  name^  and  authority  and  in  name*  and  aithority  of  the 
saids  Provost  and  Bailies.  And  immediately  after  fencing,  the  said  C«nirt  went  forward  on  horseback 
to  the  outfreedom  of  Fea,  Cannagill,  Clova,  and  the  lands  of  Scajia,  M-hich  bounds  westward  from  the 
south  bounding  of  the  said  hill  called  Kirkwall  Hill,  and  thence  back  again  northward  to  the  dykes 
of  Cannagill,  Fea,  Clova,  the  lands  of  Scapa  and  the  Parish,  riding  alrms  the  east  side  of  the  said 
dykes  to  the  Bum  of  Ae»Bdail].  And  from  that  about  the  Lands  of  Quoyoanks,  and  about  the  three 
quoys  or  crofts  called*  Rouisquoy,  Buttquoy,  and  Quoyangrie,  belonging  to  the  said  Bui*gh,  and  from 
that  down  the  South  loan  to  the  Broad  Sands  of  Kirkwall.  And  from  thence  down  the  street  to  the 
Market  Cross  of  the  said  Burgh.  There  the  saids  Provost,  Bailies,  Council,  Burgesses,  and  Com- 
munity did  light  from  their  horses,  and  went  up  to  the  Cross  and  did  drink  Her  Majesty's  health, 
and  aiter  drinking  thereof,  the  Magistrates,  Council,  Burgesses,  and  Community  went  to  the 
Tolbooth  of  the  said  Burgh,  and  there  continued  their  meetins  as  to  their  riding  of  their  marches  of 
the  West  Hill,  called  Whytefuird  Hill,  with  the  Marches  of  tne  other  lands  belonflrinff  to  the  Burgh 
lying  to  the  south-west  and  north-west  thereof,  till  to-morrow,  beins  the  twentynfth  instant,  and 
appoints  the  whole  Council,  Burgesses,  and  Community  of  the  said  Bui*gh  to  wait  and  attend  the 
saids  Magistrates  the  said  twenty-fifth  instant  with  horses  in  good  order,  at  the  said  Market  Cross, 
at  ten  of  the  clock,  at  the  tuck  of  drum. 

"  Kirkwall,  2dth  July  1706,  the  quhilk  day  the  Magistrates,  Council,  Burgesses,  with  a  great 
many  others  of  the  Community  of  the  said  Burgh,  did  meet  and  convene  in  obedience  to  their  Sederunt 
vesterdav  anent  riding  of  their  marches  to  the  south-west  and  north-west  of  their  Burffh.  And 
having  their  horses  in  readiness,  all  saddled,  standing  at  the  Cross,  they  did  all  mount  their  norses  at 
the  Mercat  Oro8»»-aiMi'Tode«  forward 'up  the -street  to  the  Head  of' the  Town.     And  from  that  south- 

•  Now  Brandiequoy. 


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106  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

ward  to  the  quoy  called  Homersquoy,  where  is  a  part  of  the  lands  belongiDff  to  the  Burgh  and  is 
included  in  the  charters  thereof  there.  The  Magistrates  and  Ck)uncil  appointed  their  officers  of  court 
to  make  interrogation  there  by  down  casting  a  part  of  the  south  dyke  thereof,  and  thereafter  rode 
from  that  northward  to  the  lands  of  Glaitness,  also  a  part  of  the  Burgh's  privileges.  And  from  that 
westward  to  the  Slapp  of  Cross/  and  from  that  westward  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  the  Meadow  of 
Rossmyre.  And  from  that  northward  to  the  dykes  of  Ranibuster.  And  from  that  eastward  along 
the  shore  to  the  dykes  of  the  qaoys,  where  they  dismounted  their  horses,  and  where  they  did  cause 
fence  ane  Town  Court  in  Her  Majesty's  name  and  authority  and  in  name  and  authority  of  the  Provost 
and  Bailies  of  the  said  Burffh. 

**  And  having  mounted  their  horses,  they  went  forward  Southward  along  the  dykes  of  quoys 
Saverock,  Hatstain,  Yairfey,  and  Gren,  and  southward  to  the  Slflfip  of  Muddisquoy,  and  from  that  to 
the  east  and  north-east  to  the  aire  of  Kirkwall,  and  forward  to  the  Town,  and  up  the  street  to  the 
Cross,  where  they  did  all  dismount  their  horses  and  went  up  to  the  Cross  and  drank  Her  Majesty's 
health  there,  and  thereafter  went  into  the  Tolbooth  and  caused  call  the  roll  of  the  Burgesses  within 
Burgh,  and  did  fine  and  amerciat  such  of  them  as  were  found  absent  who  did  not  give  attendance 
upon  the  Magistrates  this  day  in  riding  the  marches  foresaid,  ilk  ane  of  them  in  the  sum  of  ten  pounds 
Scots  money. 

But  there  were  other  occasions  on  which  the  Magistrates  called  for  a  muster  of  the  com- 
munity. In  time  of  war  the  burgesses  were  liable  to  be  frequently  summoned  to  a  weapon 
show  at  the  Ba'lea,  to  have  their  arms  and  accoutrements  inspected,  and  absentees  were  apt 
to  be  reg'arded  and  treated  as  outlaws. 

In  cases  of  sudden  alarm  the  Council  took  measures  for  the  protection  of  the  town  : — 
'*  Kirkwall,  11th  Feb.  1725,  the  which  day  the  Magistrates  and  Council,  considering  that  John 
Oow,  now  taking  upon  him  the  name  of  Smith,  has  been  for  thir  severall  days  in  Karston 
Roads,  Commander  of  a  ship  carrying  thirty-two  Guns,  and  that  yesternight  he  had  robbed 
and  plundered  the  house  of  Mr  Robert  Honeyman  of  GraBmsay,  judge  it  necessary  to  put 
themselves  in  the  best  pouster  of  defence  they  can  for  the  safety  of  the  town  and  country,  and 
for  that  end  they  doe  appoint  that  this  night  the  Town  Officers  appointed  at  last  Lambas 
Mercate  order  twenty-four  men,  furnished  with  Good  and  Sufficient  Arms,  to  keep  guard  this 
night  at  the  Tolbooth,  and  in  time  coming  as  long  as  the  Magistrates  and  Council  shall  think  fitt." 

The  Magistrates  and  Council  are  particular  as  to  the  pirate's  name — "  John  Gow,  now 
taking  upon  him  the  name  of  Smith"— because  the  rover  was  known  to  them, being  the  son  of 
one  of  their  guild  brethren. 

"  17th  April  1710,  compeired  in  Council  William  Gow,  merchant  in  Stromness  paroch, 
and  desyred  to  be  admitted  Burgess  and  Guild  Brother  of  this  Burgh,  and  referred  himself  to 
the  Magistrates  and  Councill  anent  what  he  should  pay  for  his  freedome.  The  Magistrates 
and  Councill  appoints  the  said  William  Gow  to  pay  for  his  freedome  the  sowm  of  Thretty 
Pounds  Scots  money,  and  appoints  him  presently  to  grant  bond  therefor  to  the  Thesaurer  or 
his  successors,  payable  at  Martinmas  nixt,  and  they  have  presently  subct.  ane  Burgess  and 
Guild  Brother  Ticquet  in  his  favours." 

The  phrase  "  Merchant  in  Stromness  paroch "  is  interesting  as  supporting  the  tradition 
that  Gow's  house  was  not  in  the  town  of  Stromness,  but  on  the  other  side  of  the  harbour, 
where  part  of  Messrs  Copland's  shipbuilding  yard  is  still  known  as  '*  Gow's  Gai'den." 

In  adopting  the  alias  Smith,  the  pirate  simply  used  the  English  translation  of  the  Gaelic 
name  Gow. 

The  "  Greyhound  "  man-of-war  conveyed  the  crew  of  the  "  Revenge  "  to  Londoti,  and  the 
Council,  by  way  of  thanks,  conferred  the  freedom  of  the  burgh  on  Captain  Peter  Solguard, 
Lieutenant  Edward  Smith,  and  Doctor  Hendry  Swan  of  that  ship,  "  and  appoint  the  Clerk  to 
have  ane  Honorary  Ticket  ready  for  each  of  them,  to  be  delivered  at  Six  of  the  Clock  after- 
noon at  a  Glass  of  Wine  in  the  Dean  of  Guild's  house." 

*  Corse. 


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TOWN   HALL.  107 

dth  March  1725,  the  Council  signed  a  declaration  as  to  the  manner  of  the  capture  of  the 
*'  Revenge,"  ^*  recommending  the  captor,  Fea  of  Clestrain,  to  the  Government  for  the  premium 
allowed  by  law  in  such  a  case."  They  also  request  Colonel  Munro,  M.P.  for  the  Northern 
Burghs,  to  "  petition  the  Government  for  about  Two  Hundred  Stand  of  Small  Arms  with 
Amonition  and  some  Ball  for  the  use  of  the  Burgh." 

After  seventy  years  of  service  as  Council  Chambers  and  prison,  it  occurred  to  the  Earl  of 
Morton  that  the  old  Tolbooth  was  out  of  date.  He  thought  that  "  prisoners  could  not  be 
securely  warded  without  appearance  of  hardship  or  cruelty."  Accordingly,  2nd  June  1740, 
he  "  ordered  two  hundred  pound  sterling  of  the  fine  decreed  by  the  Lords  of  Justiciary  to  be 
payd  by  Sir  James  Stewart  of  Burray  to  the  said  Earle,  to  be  applied  towards  building  a  new 
Tolbooth  or  Prison  in  the  Town  of  Kirkwall."  * 

The  fine  is  said  to  have  been  imposed  on  Sir  James  for  pursuing  and  firing  into  a  boat  in 
which  Lord  Morton  was  crossing  Holm  Sound.  Vedder  tells  how  the  Provost  of  Kirkwall, 
with  a  party  of  four  men,  went  over  to  Burray  in  search  of  a  deserter,  whom  they  found  and 
hurried  into  their  boat,  thinking  they  had  escaped  the  notice  of  the  laird.  But  Sir  Jamea 
saw  them  and  gave  chase.  Not  able  to  overtake,  but  having  them  within  range,  he  took  a 
flying  shot  at  them  with  a  musket  charged  with  slugs,  and  "  lodged  its  contents  in  the  civic 
dignitary's  seat  of  honour."  The  person  struck  was  John  Riddoch,  but  fortunately  the  distance 
was  too  great  for  serious  injury.  But  the  Earl  of  Morton  was  crossing  Holm  Sound  at  the 
time,  and  making  out  that  Stewart  fired  at  him^  prosecuted  the  irascible  laird  of  Burray  and 
got  substantial  damages. 

In  thanking  the  Earl  for  his  munificence,  the  Magistrates  and  Council  ask  the  further 
favour  of  "  liberty  to  win  some  stons  out  of  the  old  ruinous  Castle  for  building  said  Tolbooth."" 
This  also  was  granted,  but  the  condition  was  added  "that  you,  by  an  act  of  your  Town 
Council,  declare  the  princll.  hall  in  this  intended  building  to  belong  equally  to  the  Sheriff  for 
keeping  his  Courts  as  to  the  Magistrates  and  Council  for  holding  theirs." 

After  some  discussion,  and  with  much  reluctance,  the  Council  accepted  Morton's  gift  of 
money  and  stones,  and  ceded  his  condition. 

They  drew  up  "a  Memorandum  to  Mr  Andrew  Ross,  Sheriff-Depute  of  Orkney,  who 
intends  for  Edinburgh,  that  he  get  a  draught  or  model  of  such  a  house  as  will  not  exceed  £d(X> 
sterling." 

Thus  the  Town  Hall,  a  fine  building  in  its  day,  was  erected  on  the  Kirk  Green. 

After  the  demolition  of  the  Castle,  1615,  the  Sheriff  Courts  sat  for  three  years  in  the 
Earl's  Palace,  the  last  of  them  there  dating  3rd  November  1618.t  They  were  then  transferred 
to  the  Cathedral,  where  they  were  held  till  the  Earl  of  Morton  made  this  new  provision  for 
them. 

The  ground  floor  of  the  new  building  was  used  as  a  prison  and  guard-house,  above  which 
was  the  Court-room,  used  also  as  an  Assembly-room,  with  a  retiring  room  off  it,  afterwards 
used  as  a  Public  Library,  and  in  the  third  storey  was  the  Masonic  Hall. 

The  Court-room  and  prison  were  ancient  institutions,  but  the  Assembly  Hall  was  a  new 
feature,  and  is  an  important  landmark  in  the  social  history  of  Kirkwall. 

Fea,  writing  in  1775,  says  : — "  Here  we  have  perhaps  as  brilliant  an  appearance  of  Ladies 
as  any  of  an  equal  number  in  Britain,  without  exception,  both  as  to  figure,  education,  virtue, 
and  every  other  amiable  qualification  which  adorns  our  neighbouring  Ladies  of  a  more 
Southerly  Latitude,  notwithstanding  their  boasted  superior  advantages.  Neither  are  our 
Gentlemen,  especially  those  who  have  seen  a  little  of  the  world,  at  all  inferior,  either  in  mental 
or  bodily  qualifications,  to  any  of  their  Southerly  neighbours." 

*  Tudor,  p.  233.  t  Peterkin,  Memorial,  1818. 


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TOWN   HALL.  109 

Malcolm  tells  how  the  gentlemen  came  in  late  in  scarlet  vests  and  top  boots,  and  whence 
they  adjourned  to  those  heavy  suppers,  where  rounds  of  boiled  beef  smothered  in  cabbage, 
smoked  geese,  mutton  hams,  roasts  of  pork,  dishes  of  dog-fish  and  welsh  rabbits,  were  washed 
down  with  strong  home-brewed  ale  and  etherealised  by  several  large  bowls  of  rum-punch. 

With  such  a  supper  in  prospect,  the  outlay  for  the  Assembly  would  be  comparatively 
light.  The  bill  for  a  ball,  Dec.  1784,  is  :— 30  bottles  punch,  £1  10s  ;  to  6  bottles  white  wine 
negus,  15s  ;  ten  dozen  apples  for  the  ladies,  3s  4d  ;  and  for  three  musicians,  10s. 

John  Malcolm,  who  gives  the  above  description,  was  a  son  of  the  Rev.  Mr  Malcolm,  of 
Firth  and  Stenness.  He  joined  the  army,  and  at  Waterloo  was  lieutenant  in  the  42nd  High- 
landers. When  peace  came  he  retired.  After  a  long  absence,  Malcolm  revisited  the  Kirkwall 
ball-room  : — 

"  About  the  centre  of  the  Broad  Street  stands  a  quaint-lookine  building,  containing  a  masonic 
lodge,  the  county  jail,  and  the  town  hall,  which  also  serves  for  a  ball-room.  Ascending  tlie  well- 
known  stair,  I  hear  the  inspiring  strains  of  the  violin.  With  what  strange  and  mingled  feelings  of 
pleasure  and  pain  do  I  once  more  enter  the  old  hall,  the  scene  of  so  many  happy  niffhts  in  my  early 
youth  !  It  is  still  the  same  as  of  yore,  thoueh  to  my  eyes  it  does  not  now  appear  a  place  of  such  vast 
dimension  as  it  then  did.  At  the  very  first  glance  over  the  room  I  behold  some  of  my  old  sweethearts 
or  Lammas  sisters  ;  but  the  rogues  have  got  the  start  of  me,  and  are  all  married.  But  what  have  we 
here  ?  As  I  live,  the  identical  old  ladies  who  were  old  ladies  twenty  years  ago,  still  blooming  like 
perennial  roses,  occupying  the  same  favourite  corner  which  they  occupied  then,  while  so  many  of 
the  young  had  passed  away. 

**  But  the  night  wears  apace,  the  matrons  adjust  their  shawls  and  arise  to  depart,  the  younger 
n3nTiphs  follow  in  their  train,  the  music  ceases,  the  sound  of  their  foot-falls  die  away,  and  their  voices 
wax  faint  in  the  night.  One  group  only  lingers  behind  the  rest,  and  urge  me  to  be  one  of  their  party 
at  supper ;  but,  no,  no  ;  excuse  me,  dear  ladies  ;  I  am  well  acquaint  with  the  excellence  of  your 
tables,  of  the  matchless  ales  breWed  and  bottled  by  your  fair  selves,  of  your  delicious  smoked  geese 
and  cabbage  and  your  exquisite  tempting  mutton  hams  ;  but  though  these  elegant  luxuries  might  tempt 
an  angel  from  his  sphere,  I  must  forswear  them  all  if  I  would  not  ensure  the  nocturnal  visitations  of 
troubled  dreams." 

Many  a  happy  evening  was  spent  in  that  old  hall,  and  many  a  lively  flirtation  enjoyed  in 
its  dark  staircase  and  dusky  nooks. 

The  old  ladies,  also  in  their  "  favourite  comer,"  had  their  pleasure  and  excitement.  Whist 
and  brag  were  the  favourite  games,  and,  if  tradition  is  to  be  credited,  much  money  changed 
hands. 

In  Kirkwall  at  this  time  play  often  ran  high,  and  it  is  very  generally  believed  that  the 
Fair  Isle  passed  from  Sinclair  of  Quendale  to  Stewart  of  Brugh  over  a  game  of  **  brag."  But 
Stewart  of  Brugh  bought  the  Fair  Isle  as  part  of  the  bankrupt  estate  of  Quendale,  sequestrated 
1750. 

Malcolm,  along  with  Sheriff  Peterkin,  conducted  the  0?'hiey  and  Shetland  Chronicle^  a 
very  able  but  short-lived  magazine,  extending  only  to  nineteen  numbers.  In  one  of  these, 
Malcolm  treats  the  card-playing  and  supper  parties  of  Kirkwall  to  satire  and  parody  :— 

*'  Know  ye  the  land  where  the  goose  and  the  grunter 

Are  emblems  of  some  who  inhabit  the  clime, 
Where  the  natives  contrive,  through  a  long  dreary  winter, 

With  cards  and  with  crammins  to  pass  away  time  ? 
Know  ye  the  land  of  seceders  and  swine,* 

Where  the  flowers  never  blossom,  the  beams  never  shine  ; 
Where  potatoes  and  cabbaee  are  fairest  of  fruit, 

And  the  tongue  of  the  tfde-bearer  never  is  mute  f' 

*  As  to  '*  seceders  and  swine,"  it  is  interesting  to  note  that  Malcolm's  brother  William,  who  had 
Bncceeded  his  father  as  minister  of  Firth  and  Stenness  in  1807,  seceded  from  the  Established 
Church  at  the  Disruption,  1843. 


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110  KIRKWAIrfL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

One  reason  for  the  freedom  with  which  money  was  staked  in  those  days  lay  in  the  fact 
that  a  journey  to  the  south  was,  especially  with  ladies,  a  very  rare  event,  and  people  spent  at 
home  the  surplus  coin  which  is  now  disbursed  abroad.  The  probability  also  is  that  an  annual 
balance  of  profit  and  loss  over  their  games  of  chance  would  show  but  a  small  margin  on  either 
side.    The  assemblies  ceased  about  1840. 

The  ancient  gaiety  of  our  little  town  is  shown  by  the  variety  of  trades  and  professions 
formerly  pursued  which  could  not  now  exist.  The  slowness  and  general  difficulty  of  southern 
traffic  served  as  an  effectual  protection  for  all  home-made  goods,  and  whatever  could  be  pro- 
duced found  a  ready  sale.  All  the  cloth  for  ordinary  purposes,  linen  or  woollen,  worn  in 
Orkney,  was  woven  in  Orkney,  and  we  hear  of  many  prosperous  weavers.  These  were, 
properly  speaking,  manufacturers,  proprietors  of  numerous  looms  and  employers  of  journeymen 
and  apprentices.  Fortunes  were  made  by  dyers.  In  1691,  William  Farquhar,  glover,  purchased 
a  house  in  town,  and  not  merely  sold  but  made  gloves.  When  the  peruke  was  the  fashion  of 
the  day,  Kirkwall  had  three  "  Pieriewig  Makers  "—William  Watt,  at  the  foot  of  the  Strynd  ; 
Thomas  Dishington,  at  the  Bridge  ;  and  Alexander  McRae,  in  the  Anchor  Close.  And  these 
did  not  interfere  with  the  business  of  James  Sinclair,  barber,  who  made  a  competency  out  of 
the  razor  and  scissors.  In  1689,  we  have  David  Ferguson,  now  designated  hat  maker,  and 
again  hat  dresser. 

For  dancing  and  deportment,  William  Troup  and  his  popular  daughter,  Mally,  held  classes 
in  their  own  house  in  the  Laverock  ;  and  the  young  bloods  had  actually  a  French  fencing- 
master.  He,  however,  turned  out  an  impostor.  In  1708,  Louis  Deupaig,  fencing-master, 
summoned  Andrew  Young  of  Castle  Yards  and  James  Nisbet  of  Swannay  for  fees.  The 
defence  set  up  was  that  Deupaig  was  unable  to  do  the  teaching  which  he  had  undertaken. 

Many  of  our  old  trades  and  professions  have  disappeared  from  among  as.  Changes  in 
fashion  have  abolished  some,  while  easy  and  rapid  communication  with  the  great  commercial 
centres  has  rendered  others  unremunerative.  The  click  of  the  loom  is  no  longer  heard,  and 
our  litsters  have  departed  ;  the  Salter  belongs  to  a  far  past  age,  and  the  heckler  has  become 
extinct ;  hats  and  gloves  are  imported,  and  the  man  who  wants  a  wig  must  go  south  for  it. 
The  fencing-master  is  an  impossibility,  and  even  the  teacher  of  dancing  finds  the  ground  cut 
from  beheath  his  feet  by  a  successful  system  of  co-operation  in  the  form  of  mutual  improve- 
ment quadrille  parties. 

When  the  old  Town  Hall  had  served  the  community  for  almost  a  century  and  a  half,  its 
accommodation  was  found  to  be  too  limited  for  the  business  requirements  of  the  day,  and  new 
County  Buildings,  containing  a  spacious  Court-room  with  all  the  offices  requisite  for  the  proper 
administration  and  the  conduct  of  county  affairs,  were  erected  in  1877. 

As  a  prison,  the  old  Hall  had  been  from  the  first  a  distinct  failure.  Sheriff  Maconnochie, 
before  leaving  Kirkwall,  1827,  writing  to  Provost  Laing,  states  that  he  himself  had  seen 
gingerbread  handed  in  through  the  windows,  and  adds  that  he  has  no  doubt  that  spirits  and 
other  prohibited  articles  were  also  supplied  to  the  prisoners. 

He  suggests  that  a  wall  should  be  built  to  shut  in  the  south  and  east  sides. 

"  A  wretched  woman,  who  was  accused  of  poisoning  her  husband  in  Westray,  and  had 
been  confined  in  the  jail  of  Kirkwall  since  last  autumn,  put  a  period  to  her  existence  by 
strangling  herself  in  the  night  betwixt  the  17th  and  18th  of  January.  She  effected  her 
purpose  by  means  of  some  small  cord  which  most  probably  had  been  handed  to  her  through 
the  grate  of  her  prison  window.  She  had  been  rendered  desperate,  partly  no  doubt  by  a  sense 
of  guilt,  but  doubtless  also  by  the  unwearied  annoyance  of  people  from  without,  who,  having 
access  to  the  window  of  her  dungeon,  tormented  her  incessantly  with  intimations  that  she 
was  to  be  hanged,  etc,  and  the  unhappy  wretch  sank  under  this  mental  torture.    The  jail  is  a 


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TOWN   HALL.  Ill 

disgrace  to  the  county ;  it  is  neither  fit  for  confinement  with  security,  nor  as  a  place  of 
punishment  to  the  guilty  ;  and  the  jailor  is  nearly  as  good  as  the  jail,  for  he  did  not  visit  his 
charge  the  day  after  the  woman  had  strangled  herself  till  one  o'clock  afternoon."* 

About  fifty  years  ago  an  unfortunate  woman,  Jeannie  Thomson,  who  went  periodically 
insane,  was,  when  the  attack  came  on,  confined  in  this  prison,  and  it  was  one  of  the  horrors  of 
the  town  to  see  through  the  barred  gates  the  raving  maniac  pacing  up  and  down  like  a  caged 
hyena. 

One  prisoner,  who  had  observed  the  jailor's  careless  habit  of  leaving  the  key  in  the  lock, 
stood  behind  the  door  until  his  keeper  had  advanced  into  the  middle  of  the  room,  then 
slipped  out,  locked  the  door  and  went  off  a  free  man,  the  astonished  jailor  being  left  a 
prisoner. 

Even  the  grated  windows  in  the  upper  storey  could  be  negotiated.  A  hawker,  known  as 
"Cheap  Tea,"  bent  a  bar  in  a  window  on  the  east  end  of  the  building,  tied  a  blanket  and 
coverlet  together,  slid  down  to  the  window  sill  below,  swung  himself  to  the  top  of  the  wall 
and  escaped. 

The  diflSculty  was  not  to  get  out,  but  to  keep  out,  for  re-capture  was  almost  inevitable. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  present  century,  Robert  Millar  was  gaoler,  bellman,  and  lamp- 
lighter. 

A  petition  from  this  pluralist  to  the  Co  uncil  will  serve  to  show  the  state  of  the  prison 
and  the  kind  of  bargains  the  civic  rulers  made  with  their  officials  : — 

**5th  Augt.  1837,  Unto  the  Honourable  the  Lord  Provost,  Magistrates,  and  Town  Council  of  the 
Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  the  Petition  of  Robert  Millar,  Jailor  of  that  Burgh, 

**  Most  respectfully  and  humbly  sheweth  that  it  is  with  extreme  reluctance  the  Petitioner  submits 
to  your  gracious  and  favourable  consideration  the  following  brief  statement  where¥ith  he  would  not 
trouble  your  Honours  but  from  dire  necessity. 

**  The  Petitioner  has  long  been  and  officiated  as  Jailor  of  Kirkwall,  an  office  attended  with  much 
danger,  risk,  and  responsibility,  besides  a  vast  deal  of  slavish  drudgery  from  the  situation  of  and 
want  of  suitable  conveniences  for  the  Prison,  at  the  very  inadequate  Salary  of  no  more  than  the 
trifling  sum  of  Five  Pounds  Sterling  merely,  a  rate  much  below  that  paid  in  other  places,  where 
Jailors  have  not  only  assistants  but  tne  whole  work  performed  within  the  Jail  or  Walls  surrounding 
it,  from  which  small  allowance  falls  to  be  deducted,  at  lesist  such  has  been  hitherto  done,  £2  12s  6a 
Sterling,  for  his  using  a  hand  Bell  through  the  Streets  of  the  Burgh  in  the  way  of  serving  the  PubUo 
by  advertisement,  so  that  the  whole  that  he  is  in  receipt  of  from  the  Burgh  in  this  way  amounts  to 
no  more  than  £2  7s  6d,  which,  with  £3  as  Town  Officer  salary,  almost  the  whole  of  which  duty  he 
uniformly  fulfils,  makes  his  emoluments  extend  to  no  more  than  £5  7s  6d,  which  can  do  but  very 
little  indeed  to  the  support  of  his  Bedrid  Mother,  94  years  of  age  and  closely  confined  to  bed  for  the 
last  four  years,  his  wife,  and  five  helpless  children  and  himself  ;  while,  tho'  a  Sheriff  Officer  and  Con- 
stable, and,  thank  God,  blessed  with  health  and  strength,  he  cannot  avail  himself  of  employment  in 
either  of  these  capacities,  whether  in  Town  or  Country,  his  situation  of  Jailor  requiring  his  close  and 
undivided  attention. 

**  That  the  Petitioner  trusts  your  Honors  will  take  his  very  clamant  case  into  your  serious  con- 
sideration, and  allow  him  a  suitable  remuneration  for  his  services  by  extending  his  Salary  adequately, 
and  dispensing  with  any  charge  for  his  using  a  Bell,  a  recent  Exaction  which  is  but  very  trifling  of 
itself,  and  in  no  way  interferes  with  his  other  duty  ;  for  he  feels  that  without  a  considerable  addition 
to  his  Salary  he  would  be  sacrificing  his  own  and  his  family's  interest  were  he  to  continue  to  hold  office 
longer. 

'*May  it  therefore  please  your  Honors  to  consider  what  is  above  set  forth  to  enlarge  the  Peti- 
tioner's Salary,  so  as  to  make  it  of  suitable  and  adequate  amount,  and  to  dispense  with  any  tax  or 
charge  against  him  for  his  trouble  in  advertising  with  a  Bell  through  the  streets  of  the  Burgh. 
According  to  Justice  &  your  Wisdoms  answer,  Ac.  (Sign^)        Robekt  Millar." 

This  petition  gives  a  strange  insight  into  the  insanitary  condition  of  Kirkwall  Jail  so  late 
as  1837.  The  jailor's  work  was  made  so  much  heavier  because  there  was  no  surrounding  wall 
to  furnish  a  corner  into  which  he  could  scrape  the  filth  of  the  place.    At  length  the  Council 

*  Ork.  and  Zet.  Chron.,  Jan.  1826. 


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112  KIRKWALL   IN   THEORKJJEYS. 

put  up  a  wall,  gathering  stones  wherever  they  could  most  easily  be  found,  even  from  the 
broken  monuments  in  the  Cathedral. 

With  his  petition  Millar  sent  in  an  account,  and  the  Council  appointed  a  committee  to 
consider  and  report  on  both. 

One  charge  was  £l  9s  for  straw  for  the  prison  for  14^  years.  On  this  the  committee 
remarked  : — "  The  Petitioner  may  have  procured  straw  occasionally  for  prisoners'  beds,  but 
that  he  paid  out  money  for  any  is  not  very  probable,  and  these  claims  are  entitled  to  no 
favour." 

The  low  salary  given  to  the  jailor  was  a  relic  of  the  old  style  of  prison  management. 
Some  corporations  gave  their  jailor  no  salary  at  all,  and  yet  found  keen  competition  when  a 
vacancy  occurred. 

In  the  good  old  days  when  the  gentlemen  of  Kirkwall  adjusted  their  quarrels  in  the  open 
street  with  sword,  walking  cane,  or  fist,  the  Tolbooth  was  a  fashionable  resort,  where  the 
jailor  was  host  and  the  inmates  were  paying  guests.  They  had  their  table  supplied  each 
according  to  his  taste.  The  charges  were  possibly  higher  than  in  ordinary  hotels,  but  the 
exclusiveness  was  worth  paying  for. 

In  those  days  the  jailor  made  a  good  thing  out  of  his  boarders.  But  poor  Millar,  with 
ancient  pay,  had  to  put  up  with  modern  charges,  for  instance : — "  8  July,  To  hording  and 
attendance  on  Henrietta  Cormack  or  Sinclair,  from  this  date  up  to  the  end  of  the  21  Augt., 
being  44  dayes,  at  6d  per  day,  £1  Os  2d."  "  To  Apprehending  and  Boarding  Jean  Thomson 
when  She  was  last  Lewnatick  and  confined  to  Jaill,  6s." 

As  has  been  seen,  the  jailor  procured  straw  for  the  prisoners'  beds,  but  even  if,  as  the 
Council  suspected,  he  did  not  pay  for  it,  his  profits  must  have  been  small  indeed  off  board  at 
sixpence  per  day. 

But  what  of  the  boarders  ?  Imagine  a  poor  lunatic  prisoner  locked  up  in  a  cell  with  no 
comfort  but  some  straw  in  a  corner,  and  her  guardian  or  keeper,  home  for  the  night, 
half-a-mile  away  from  his  charge.  And  in  this  connection  the  following  comes  from  a 
gentleman  holding  high  office  in  the  prison  department  of  our  Local  Government. 

After  Millar's  time,  an  Inspector  visited  Kirkwall  prison,  and,  shocked  to  find  no  one 
present  in  charge,  sought  out  the  jailor  in  his  own  house.  He  knocked  loudly  on  the  door. 
A  window  above  was  immediately  opened,  and  a  wi*athful  fa;ce  looked  down  on  the  visitor 
with  ** , it,  what  the do  you  want  ?" 

"  I  am  the  Inspector  of  Prisons." 

"  And  how  the am  I  to  know  whether  you're  a Inspector  or  not  T 

Down  went  the  window,  and  thus  ended  the  interview. 

At  first  sight  it  seems  hard  that  Millar  should  have  to  pay  such  a  tax  as  £2  12s  6d  for  his 
bell,  but  the  answer  of  the  committee  explains  this  :— "  It  has  somehow  or  other  altogether 
escaped  the  Petitioner  to  notice  that,  as  a  compensation  for  any  extra  services  about  the 
town,  he  was  allowed  the  exclusive  privilege  of  the  hand  bell  at  the  very  low  rate  of  £2  12s  6d 
per  annum,  when  it  could  have  been  let  by  auction  for  more  than  double  that  sum,  and  it  is 
certainly  the  source  of  considerable  emolument  to  him.  The  hand  bell  of  the  Town  of  Strom- 
ness  is  let  for  £5  a  year,  and  the  same  privilege  ought  to  be  more  productive  in  this  Burgh." 

After  the  Sheriff  Courts  and  general  county  business  had  been  for  years  established  in 
the  new  and  commodious  County  Buildings,  the  Burgh  Courts  and  Council  meetings  were 
still  held  in  the  old  Town  Hall.  But,  in  1884,  it  was  resolved  to  provide  more  suitable 
accommodation,  and  on  the  20th  August  of  that  year  the  f  oui^dation  ^stone  of  the;  new  Town 
Hall  was  laid  with  Masonic  honours  by  the  Grand  Master  of  Scotland,  the  Earl  of  Mar  and 
KeUie. 


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TOWN    HALL.  113 

The  Municipal  Buildings  in  Broad  Street  are  in  the  Scottish  baronial  style,  and  were 
built  by  Messrs  Samuel  Baikie  &  Sons,  from  plans  by  Mr  T.  S.  Peace,  architect. 

When  these  were  finished,  the  old  Hall,  which  had  outlived  its  usefulness,  was  cleared 
away,  and  its  site  and  that  of  the  old  Quard  House,  which  had  preceded  it,  is  marked  by  a 
granite  shaft  and  a  drinking  fountain. 

For  centuries  the  Town  Council  was  a  close  corporation.  The  Councillors  elected  the 
Bailies.  When  the  Provost's  term  of  oflfice  expired,  if  he  cared  for  re-election  and  if  he  were 
popular,  he  might  sit  for  many  years.  Should  a  section  of  the  Council  desire  a  change,  the 
names  of  two  of  the  Magistrates,  "  added "  to  that  of  the  sitting  Provost,  formed  a  leet  of 
three,  on  which  the  votes  were  taken.  When  a  vacancy  occurred  at  the  Board,  the  place  was 
filled  by  the  admission  of  a  fresh  member  on  the  invitation  of  the  majority  of  the  Council. 

The  only  representative  members  were  the  Deacons  of  the  four  incorporated  trades,  each 
of  whom  had  a  seat  in  the  Council  ex  officio. 

The  elections  in  Kirkwall,  and  in  most  other  burghs,  took  place  on  the  29th  day  of 
September.  This  was  a  relic  of  mediteval  times,  when  tutelary  saints  and  guardian  angels 
were  universally  recognised,  and  as  the  Councillors  are  the  guardian  angels  of  the  town,  they 
were  and  are  elected  on  the  festival  of  St.  Michael  and  All  Angels.* 

In  keeping  with  this  idea,  down  to  time  well  within  the  memories  of  living  men,  the 
election  of  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  always  took  place  in  the  nave  of  the  Cathedral. 

But,  in  1852,  during  the  provostship  of  James  Spence,  Esq.,  of  the  Commercial  Bank,  the 
Council,  by  an  Act  of  Parliament,  was  put  upon  a  new  footing.  The  Provost,  the  foxur 
Bailies,  and  twelve  Councillors  resigned,  and  twelve  in  all  were  elected  to  form  the  new 
Municipal  Court. 

Those  polled  in  were  Messrs  John  Mitchell,  Peter  Cursiter,  James  Spence,  Alexander 
Bain,  William  Sinclair,  David  Warren,  James  Walls,  James  Baikie,  David  Marwick,  George 
Robertson,  George  Petrie,  and  John  Dinnison.  The  Council  being  thus  formed,  Mr  Spence 
was  unanimously  re-elected  Provost ;  Mr  Mitchell,  first  Bailie  ;  Mr  Bain,  second  Bailie  ;  Mr 
Cursiter,  Dean-of-Guild ;  and  Mr  Warren,  Treasiurer ;  and  the  Act  of  1852  is  still  the 
constitutional  basis  of  the  Council. 


APPENDICES  TO  CHAPTER  VIII. 


I.— Some  certain  Instructions  for  the  Keeper  op  the  Tolbooth  to  be  seen  Revised, 
PUT  IN  Order,  Rectified,  and  Authorised  by  the  Provost,  Bailies,  and 
Council  of  Kirkwall. 

1.  Imprimis,  that  the  said  Keeper  have  all  the  rooms  therein,  either  Magistrates',  wherein 
Court  or  Council  sits,  or  where  civil  prisoners  remain  incarcerated,  with  their  tables,  forms, 
and  other  plenishing,  neat  and  cleanly  kept. 

2.  Item,  that  the  said  Keeper,  bv  himself  or  another  in  his  name,  for  whom  he  and  his 
cautioner  shall  be  answerable,  be  reader  at  all  times  and  upon  all  occasions,  as  well  by  night 
as  by  day,  with  the  keys  of  the  foresaid  Tolbooth,  to  answer  the  Magistrates  as  need  shall 
require. 

3.  Item  for  regulating  the  said  Keeper  his  attendance  of  the  said  Tolbooth.  having 
prisoners  therein,  upon  days  whereon  neitner  Court  nor  Council  is  holden,  he  shall  be  only 

*  Book  of  Days,  ii.  389. 


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114  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

obliged  to  attend  with  the  keys  from  the  hour  of  eight  in  the  morning  to  nine,  and  from  eleven 
to  twelve  in  the  midday,  and  from  four  o'clock  to  eight  in  the  afternoon,  except  upon  extra- 
ordinary incident,  absolutely  necessary  and  most  urgent  occasions,  or  by  a  particular  order 
from  a  Magistrate. 

4.  Item,  that  while  the  Council  i«  sitting  the  keeper  remove  all  persons,  as  well  prisoners 
as  others,  from  the  chamber  perpendicular  above  the  Council  Chambers  into  the  next  room, 
for  so  long  time  as  the  Council  sits,  returning  the  prisoner  or  prisoners  thereafter  to  tiieir 
room  again. 

5.  Item,  that  the  keeper,  by  himself  and  his  servants,  for  whom  he  is  to  be  answerable, 
as  said  is,  attend  the  said  Tolbooth  door  at  the  passage  foot,  from  the  opening  thereof  to  the 
closing  of  the  same,  that  no  person  or  persons  enter  the  said  Tolbooth  with  any  weapons 
offensive  and  visible. 

6.  Item,  that  the  like  attendance  be  given  that  neither  ale,  beer,  or  any  other  liquor 
whatsoever  enter  the  Tolbooth  but  what  is  bought  from  the  Keeper,  he  always  ajfifordinfif  the 
same  as  good  and  at  the  same  rate  as  others  do,  an  also  pipes  and  tobacco  by  pennywortns  as 
the  Magistrates  shall  enjoin,  either  by  weight  or  measure. 

7.  Item,  that  at  whatever  hour  of  the  day  the  Keeper  shall  happen  to  receive,  by  order  or 
mittimus,  any  prisoner,  burgher,  or  stranger,  he  shall  not  book  him  with  the  clerk  until  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  passes,  and  before  the  chap  ol  live  he  shall  nt)t  fail  but  book  him  or 
them  peremptorily,  that  tne  booking  money  may  be  paid  without  any  question,  although  the 
prisoner  should  that  same  night  be  set  at  liberty. 

8.  Item,  that  an  inhabitant  burgher,  being  prisoner,  shall  have  liberty  to  bring  in  his  own 
meat  and  drink  from  his  own  house,  but  not  so  to  a  stranger,  the  Keeper  being  able  to  furnish 
in  manner  foresaid. 

9.  Item,  that  the  Keei)er,  from  each  prisoner  once  committed,  booked  or  not  booked,  for 
turning  of  the  key,  shall  have  from  a  burgher  six  shillings  and  eighti)ence  Scots,  and  from  a 
stranger  thirteen  shillings  and  fourpence  money  foresaia,  and  that  he  shall  exact  no  more 
except  who  pleases  gratuitously  to  give  the  same. 

10.  Item,  when  any  prisoner  is  suspected,  by  assistance  and  compliance  with  any  person 
or  persons,  to  be  endeavouring  his  escape,  immediately  the  Keeper  shall  the  more  closely 
keep  up  the  said  prisoner,  and  incontinently  acquaint  the  Magistrates  or  Magistrate  to  the 
effect  he  may  receive  order  how  to  carry  and  deal  with  such  a  prisoner  upon  such  an  attempt. 

11.  Item,  that  the  Keeper  have  in  his  dwelling-house,  for  the  serving  of  the  Tolbooth, 
sufficient  beer  or  ale,  or  any  other  necessary  above  nominated  whereof  he  craves  to  have  the 
benefit  of  selling  within  the  said  Tolbooth,  if  he  pleases  to  undertake  the  same. 

12.  Item,  tnat  the  said  keev)er  demean  himself  pleasantly  and  circumspectly  to  all 

Prisoners  entering  the  said  Tolbooth,  according  to  their  civil  deportments,  under  pain  of 
eprivation,  with  what  mulct  or  punishment  the  Magistrates  shall  fai-ther  please  to  impose. 

13.  Item,  that  the  said  Keeper  shall  each  Sabbath  day  diligently  attend  the  said  Tolbooth 
door  by  the  first  knock  or  toll  of  the  first  bell,  both  forenoon  and  afternoon,  for  receiving  of 
the  Magistrates  and  Council  under  pains  foresaid. 

14.  Item,  that  the  said  Keeper,  under  the  pains  foresaid,  presume  not  nor  take  uix)n  him 
to  receive  any  prisoner  or  prisoners  whatsoever  within  this  said  gaol,  by  any  mittimus  from 
any  other  judge,  or  from  the  hands  of  any  Messenger-at-Arms,  without  the  authority  and 
special  Wan*ants  of  one  of  the  Magistrates  of  the  Burgh  interponed  for  that  effect. 

16.  Item,  that  if  the  said  Keeper  shall  happen  at  any  time  to  meet  with  any  accident  of 
prisoners  to  make  breach  either  of  doors,  windows,  stachelis,  or  any  other  part  of  the  said 
Tolbooth,  for  making  escape,  that  so  soon  as  he  shall  know  of  the  same  that  he  acquaint  the 
provost  or  any  of  the  bailies,  dean  of  guild,  or  treasurer,  that  the  same  may  be  remedied  with 
all  convenience  under  the  pain  aforesaid. 

16.  Item,  that  no  women  shall  be  permitted  to  bide  in  the  Tolbooth  with  their  husband 
or  husbands  after  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  except  upon  the  case  of  sickness  or  such  like, 
and  that  such  women  when  they  come  in  be  rancellecf  before  they  come  near  to  their  husbands, 
that  they  have  nothing  that  may  further  the  escape  of  the  prisoner.* 

•  Favoured  by  J,  W,  Cursiter,  Esq, 


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TOWN   HALL.  115 


II. — Standing  Orders  of  the  Town  Council. 

Imprimis,  that  the  Magistrates  and  Councillors  meet  punctually  at  and  within  the 
Tolbooth  every  Sabbath  Day  before  the  third  bell,  both  forenoon  and  afternoon,  that  they 
may  go  to  the  church  in  order  accordingly. 

2.  Item,  that  the  Council  day  be  Friday  in  each  week,  and  that  the  Council  diet  of 
meeting  the  said  day  be  betwixt  and  eleven,  and  to  continue  till  twelve  and  no  longer,  except 
upon  extraordinary  occasions,  and  the  Court  diets  upon  Tuesday  and  Saturday  be  accordingly. 

3.  Item,  that  none  of  the  Ma^strates,  Dean  of  Guild,  Thesaurer,  and  Councillors  absent 
themselves  willfully  upon  the  said  Council  days^  being  in  town  and  in  health,  without  a 
relevant  excuse  sent  bjr  themselves,  either  in  writing  or  by  one  for  them,  showing  the  neces- 
sity of  their  absence^  without  any  aavertisement  to  he  given  to  them  to  that  effect. 

4.  Item.  Likewise  that  whensoever  any  accidental  Council  Meeting  shall  happen  upon 
any  extraordinary  day,  that  the  said  Magistrates  and  whole  Council  meet  in  like  manner  upon 
advertisement  given  to  them. 

5.  Item.  After  meeting  at  the  Council  table,  that  neither  Magistrate  nor  Councillor  take 
occasion  of  discussing  about  their  own  proper  affairs,  neither  yet  talk  loudly  nor  confer  upon 
impertinent  discourse,  but  to  attend  to  the  public  affair  in  hand  for  the  time,  and  to  give  their 
best  judgment  thereanent. 

6.  Item.  Also  that,  upon  meeting  at  Council  table,  none  remove  without  giving  notice 
and  getting  liberty  from  the  table. 

7.  It.,  that  if  either  Magistrate  or  Councillor  be  concerned  in  any  particular  at  the  said 
table,  that  he  remove  himself  till  the  matter  be  debated  among  the  rest. 

8.  It.,  that  none  of  the  Magistrates  or  Councillors  offer  to  take  speech  in  hand  at  the  said 
Council  table  to  any  person  that  shall  happen  to  appear,  but  the  provost  or  the  Clerk,  or  as 
the  said  provost  shall  appoint  it. 

9.  It.,  that  none  of  the  officers,  nor  no  person  else,  except  Magistrates  and  Councillors,  be 
permitted  to  be  within  the  Council  chamber  while  the  Council  is  a  sitting. 

10.  It.,  that  no  money  be  received  upon  the  account  of  the  public,  but  what  is  delivered 
to  the  Thesaurer  and  disbursed  by  him  accordingly,  and  bookea  by  tne  Clerk  as  well  as  by 
him. 

11.  Item,  that  all  bonds,  as  they  are  received  by  the  Clerk  or  by  any  others  in  his  name^ 
the  same  shall  be  likewise  delivered  to  the  Thesaurer  for  recovering  payment  thereof,  ana 
that  the  Clerk  keep  a  particular  double  thereof,  subscribed  under  the  Tnesaurer  his  hand,  till 
he  deliver  the  principal,  and  that  the  Clerk  keep  an  account  accordingly  as  with  the  money. 

12.  It.,  that  the  Clerk  and  Thesaurer  sit  and  compare  their  accounts,  both  of  money  and 
bonds,  in  presence  of  the  said  Magistrates  and  Council,  publickly,  quarterly  if  required,  that 
the  same  may  be  approven  of  and  attested  accordingly. 

13.  It.,  that  tne  Dean  of  Quild  and  his  Councu  deliver  up  what  bonds  and  money  they 
happen  to  decern  and  receive  to  the  said  Thesaurer,  and  that  the  Clerk  keep  an  account 
thereof  accordingly. 

14.  It.,  that  the  Dean  and  his  said  Council  produce  their  books  of  Acts  and  accounts 
upon  demand  to  the  great  Council,  being  required  thereby  that  the  same  may  be  revised, 
considered,  and  approven  accordingly. 

15.  Item,  that  the  Dean  of  Guild  act  nothing  of  himself  without  his  Council,  and  that 
neither  he  nor  his  Council  act  nor  do  anything  of  concernment  or  importance  without  the 
advice  of  the  great  Council,  otherwise  the  same  to  be  null. 

16.  It.,  in  all  baillie  courts  within  Burgh,  where  there  are  business  of  concernment  or 
importance,  that  nothing  be  done  there  anent  as  to  the  decernitor  thereof,  as  also  as  said 
decernitor  of  such  decreets  or  any  other  decreets,  no  extract  to  be  given  forth  till  the  Council 
be  acquainted,  there  with. 

17.  It.,  that  no  bailie  give  judgment  to  any  person  within  Burgh  until  first  the  Magistrates 
be  acquainted  thereof  and  allow  the  same. 

18.  It.,  that  no  infeftment  be  given,  except  by  the  Clerk  of  the  said  Court,  otherwise  the 
same  to  be  null,  and  that  the  Clerk  keep  a  register  for  that  effect,  and  that  he  make  the 
reddendo  of  each  charter  ready  when  required. 

19.  It,  that  no  apprentice  within  Burgh,  either  merchant  apprentice  or  handicraft,  have 


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116  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

any  benefit  of  their  indentures,  except  their  indentures  be  booked  in  the  Dean  of  Guild  books 
and  make  |)ayment  therefore  in  manner  aftermentioned.  Item  for  each  wright  apprentice, 
Joiner  or  Carpenter. 

It.  for  each  tailor  and  glover  and  saddler. 

It.  for  each  shoemaker. 

It.  for  each  mason,  slater  and  glazier. 

It.  for  each  weaver. 

It.  for  every  baxter,  hatmaker  and  pewterer.* 

20.  It.,  that  all  burgess  tickets  formerly  granted  either  to  guild  brothers  or  simple  burgess 
be  called  in  and  made  forth  conform  to  the  said  Magistrates,  whereby  the  same  may  be  sub- 
scribed by  the  provost,  bailies,  and  guilds  whereof  they  are  guild  brothers,  and  other  burgess 
tickets  be  subscribed  only  by  the  present  bailies  and  Clerk  for  the  Council,  the  disobeyes 
against  lawful  dictates  be  holden  and  repute  as  no  burges  and  liable  to  the  fine  contained 
in  their  ticket. 

21.  It.,  also  that  all  burgess  tickets  to  be  granted  hereafter  be  subscribed  accordingly,  and 
the  town's  small  seal  set  thereto,  but  where  guild  brothers'  tickets  are,  the  great  seal  to  be 
a])pended  if  retiuired. 

22.  It.,  that  no  residenter  or  stranger  be  made  freeman  and  guild  brother  until  first  he 
reside  and  abide  in  the  jJace  actually  within  burgh  for  the  space  of  two  years  or  one  at  least. 

23.  It.,  that  no  burgess  be  admitted  or  chosen  Councillor  before  he  has  been  a  year  or  two 
residenter  and  actually  trafficking  as  a  made  burgess. 

24.  It.,  that  none  be  put  u{)on  leet  to  be  a  Magistrate  without  he  has  been  two  years  a 
Councillor,  and  actually  trafficking  and  residing  within  burgh. 

25.  It,  that  none  be  put  upon  leet  to  be  chasen  Provost  or  Dean  of  Guild  without  he  has 
been  a  year  a  bailie. 

26.  It.,  that  none  be  leeted,  chosen,  or  admitted  as  provost,  bailie,  or  Dean  of  Guild 
without  he  actually  reside  and  traffic  within  burgh. 

27.  It.,  that  no  clerk  be  chosen  within  burgh  but  he  which  actually  resides  and  gives  bond 
and  surety  for  his  fidelity,  and  the  said  bond  lie  amongst  the  town's  evidents,  and  that  he  be 
obliged  to  keep  such  books  and  registers  as  are  or  shall  be  delivered  to  him  without  blots  or 
blanks  in  year  and  day,  and  that  he  keep  a  minute  book. 

28.  It,  that  this  present  Magistrates,  Dean  of  Guild  and  Council  apnrove  of,  allow  and 
corroborate,  all  the  markets  made  by  their  predecessors  until  the  same  oe  revised  and  cor- 
rected, unless  what  has  been  unwarrantably  done  without  the  public  consent  of  the 
Magistrates  then  in  office. 

29.  It.,  that  the  month  before  elected  yearly  all  books  and  accounts  be  called  in  and 
cleared,  sustained  and  subscribed,  to  be  ready  to  be  delivered  to  the  succeeding  officiants  when 
elected. 

30.  It,  that  no  heritor,  by  servitors  or  tacksmen,  of  any  tenements  within  burgh  shall 
build  or  repair  the  houses  of  the  old  streets  or  enlarge  the  same  until  the  Magistrates  or  Dean 
of  Guild  be  advertised  thereof,  that  so  his  Majesty  s  high  street,  loan,  or  other  free  passages 
be  not  encroached  ujx)n. 

31.  It.,  that  all  inhabitants  within  burgh,  that  any  mechanic  work  be  wrought,  that  they 
€mi)loy  none  except  those  who  are  mechanic  free  workmen  within  burgh. 

32.  It.,  that  no  heritor  set  houses  to  incomers  without  the  Magistrates'  special  consent.t 

*  The  charges  were  not  fixed.     They  varied  according  to  the  ability  to  pay. 
t  Favoured  by  J.  W.  Cursiter,  Esq. 


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KIRKWALL.- 


RBFBRBNOe, 


1.  aobtrtNieoUim'iko,  118 
f.  SeoUaftland       .     „ 
9.  WiUiam  Davidion     „ 
U.  OanTMland  .        .    110 
5   aemdimm'i  land   ,     „ 

6.  Qrwt  Lodging      .      „ 

7.  Provoit  BM/a  ho.    „ 

8.  Edward  SeUta^a  ho.  „ 

9.  Cdpt.  Bnehanan't 

ho,       .  .190 

10,  BuUer  8torthou»e       „ 

11.  Tounigar  „ 
if.  OoekhaU  .  „ 
25.  JoAiiPottin^tAo.  ,, 
U.  J<m€tOwrtttUr^aho.    „ 


15.  0alUrUfaird»       ,  120 

16.  Ktlda^t  Tawem     .  121 

17.  ThtBamparU        ,  t, 

18.  TraiU'aFoUp.       .  120 

19.  Thelwnt  ,  128 

90.  John  (hUhbtrt^t  ho.  „ 

91,  ThiOinuU    .        .  127 
ft.  Ortdgie    qf    Ov€r- 

•amda^  .  188 

95.  Halero^  Crook     .  „ 
14.  MowatqfPow        .  „ 

96.  PotHngerqfHobbiattr  „ 

96.  Covingtrteqf  Newark  „ 

97.  SkipptrBmkU       .  „ 

98.  CraigU  0/ Qaknay  .  187 


99.  StorthouH     <tf 
Cliekimin    . 
90.  CUckimin 
81.  Riper' »  houm  . 
89.  Irvinga  qf  Sebaif 
88.  SineUMraqfBrugk 
8U,  MargaretOromairtie 
86.  St.  Olt^aOiurdi    . 

86.  The  Shed 

87.  Be9.  P.  Wateratoun 

88.  Lang  SUan 

89.  Diahington'a  land  . 
kO.  out  Qvaxd  ho.  pard 
Ul.  St.  Ola'a  bridge  . 
h$.  (HlbertNiabet^aho. 


144 

It 

140 
156 

II 

160 
160 
164 

II 
167 

168 

160 


43.  Joa.  WUkina&nUho. 
ttk.  Drummond^a  ho.  . 
hS.  John  Spence . 
Ifi.  JMater^a  Smithp  . 
U7.  Rtv.  J.  Wallace    . 

68,  Summer  houae 
U9.  Croaa  Houae  . 

60.  0.    TraUl,    Quen- 

dalt  . 

61.  TheDoocot    . 

69.  Parliameni  Cloae  . 
68.  Jamea  lianaon 
6U.  John  Kaa      . 

66.  Bailie  Young 
66.  Ualero  qf  Crook    . 


IS' 

II 
170 

II 

II 

176 
178 

177 
178 
170 

II 
180 

II 
181 


4f .  MEDDLE. 


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CHAPTER  IX. 

The  Streets — Shore  and  Ra^nparts. 

\ING  JAMES  the  Third's  Charter  represents  the  town  as  consisting  of  two  parts,  the 

g.  Burgh  and  Laverock.  These  were  divided  by  the  narrow  vennel,  in  the  middle  of 
Bro'ad  Street,  which  bounded  the  property  of  the  Earl  on  the  south  and  that  of  the 
Church  on  the  north.  But  the  Records  of  Sasine,  dating  from  1682,  make  a  threefold  division  : 
— the  Burgh,  from  the  Shore  to  the  Bridge  ;  the  Midtown,  from  the  Bridge  upward  till  it 
includes  the  houses  surrounding  the  old  Palace  garden  ;  and  the  Laverock,  up  to  the  new 
Scapa  Road. 

In  1677,  eighty-three  persons  in  Kirkwall  held  burgess  tickets,  and  were  all  engaged  in 
business.  There  were  ninety-four  ratepayers,  and  the  rating  value  of  the  town  was  £2393* 
Scots  on  a  gross  rental  of  £3190.  On  an  assessment  of  two  shillings  per  pound  in  the  above 
year,  the  largest  ratepayer  was  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound,  £14  14s,  followed  by  Arthur 
Baikie,  over  £11  ;  Margaret  Grott,  widow  of  Patrick  Prince,  £10  ;  and  Robert  Richan,  £9. 
Then  there  is  a  drop  to  six  pounds  paid  by  two  householders ;  three  paid  £5  ;  four  paid  £4 ; 
eight  paid  £3 ;  sixteen  paid  £2  ;  thirty-one  paid  £1  ;  and  the  rest  paid  in  shillings. 

In  the  earliest  valuation  rolls  the  houses  of  the  wealthier  burgesses  are  generally  de- 
scribed as  being  *'  under  sclait  ruiff,"  but  the  greater  number  were  **  under  thack  miff,"  while 
many  are  described  as  "  partly  ruinous,"  and  some  as  ''  ruinous,  without  ruiff."  The  larger 
dwellings  had  ofl&ces  at  the  back,  such  as  kitchen,  brew-house,  and  byre,  which  were  always 
thatched,  and  every  habitation  required  its  kail -yard  and  peat  brae.  These  open  spaces 
secured  the  ventilation  that  saved  the  undrained,  unscavengered  streets  and  closes  from 
endemic  disease. 

The  Burgh,  the  oldest  part  of  the  town,  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Rctish  hamlet. 

The  Shore  was  the  gateway  to  the  town,  and  in  the  viking  days  it  saw  some  rude  entrances. 
In  autumn,  when  the  galleys  returned  from  their  yearly  cruise,  wild  scenes  were  witnessed. 
As  soon  as  the  keels  touched  the  strand,  discipline  yielded  to  nature,  and  the  men,  so  long 
cribbed,  cabined,  and  confined,  broke  loose  and  spread  themselves  all  through  the  hamlet. 
Mothers,  wives,  and  sweethearts  had  their  first  attention  ;  then  came  the  inevitable  carousal. 
Longfellowt  gives  two  life-like  pictures,  afloat  and  ashore  :— 

**  In  the  forehold,  Biom  and  Borck 
Watched  the  sailors  at  their  work — 

Heavens  !  how  they  swore. 
Thirty  men  they  each  commanded, 
Iron-sinewed,  homy-handed, 
Shoulders  broad  and  chests  expanded, 

Tugging  at  the  oar." 

*  £199  8s  4d  stg.  f  Saga  of  King  Olaf. 


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118  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

'*  When  they  landed  from  the  fleet, 
How  they  roared  along  the  street, 

Boisterous  as  the  gale. 
How  they  laughed  and  stamped  and  pounded, 
Till  the  tavern  roof  resounded, 
And  the  host  looked  on  astounded. 

As  they  drank  the  ale." 

Shore  Street  was  bounded  on  the  east  by  Weyland,  or  rather  by  a  lane  which  ran  inland 
between  the  Burgh  and  that  farm,  giving  Pabdale  access  to  the  beach.  At  the  comer  of  this 
lane,  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  North  of  Scotland  Company's  cattle  sheds,  stood,  in 
1677,  a  house  belonging  to  Robert  Nicolson,  glazier,  which  was  let  out  to  a  number  of  tenants. 
Since  then  this  site  has  had  several  owners,  and  at  least  one  odd  transfer.  In  1827,  Janet 
Flett  sold  it  to  William  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Elwick,  for  an  annuity  of  £5  stg.,  and  in  this  case  the 
annuitant  had  not  the  best  of  the  bargain. 

The  double  tenement  west  of  Nicolson's  house,  now  belonging  to  Messrs  Flett  &  Sons, 
merchants,  was  owned  and  occupied  by  the  Rev.  James  Douglas.  It  was  "  of  old  called  Scol- 
lay's  Land,"  having  belonged  to  the  ScoUays  of  Tofts.  When  Barbara,  daughter  of  James 
Scollay,  married  Mr  Douglas,  this  house  was  part  of  her  tochergood. 

The  manse  adjoined  the  Bishop's  Palace,  but  the  minister  had  let  it  to  Governor  Watson, 
Cromwell's  representative  in  Orkney,  who  paid  Mr  Douglas  a  yearly  rent  of  £48  Scots. 

Mr  Douglas  had  a  somewhat  chequered  career.  He  was  the  son  of  Archibald  Douglas, 
minister  of  Glenbervie,^  and  had  the  parish  of  Douglas  before  coming  to  Kirkwall  in  1648. 
In  1660,  along  with  the  rest  of  the  Orkney  ministers,  he  was  deposed  by  the  General  Assembly 
for  subscribing  an  address  to  the  chivalrous  Marquis  of  Montrose.  In  1659  the  sentence  was 
taken  off,  and  he  was  settled  in  Lady  Parish,  Sanday.t  A  pension  of  "  fifty  merks  allowed  by 
Parliament,  2l8t  June  1661,  on  account  of  his  sufferings  and  losses,"  rewarded  his  loyalty ;  and 
his  re-translation  to  Kirkwall  the  same  year  restored  him  and  his  wife  to  '*  ScoUay's  Land  "  on 
the  Shore. 

Mr  Douglas  died  27th  August  1678,  and  was  buried  in  the  Cathedral.^ 

After  the  death  of  Mr  Douglas,  this  property  reverted  to  the  ScoUays. 

On  end  with  **  ScoUay's  Land,"  southward,  were  two  houses  belonging  to  William  David- 
son, writer.  Commissary  Depute. 

Davidson  lived  in  Albert  Street,  and,  judged  by  his  church-going— the  recognised  test  in 
Kirkwall— was  a  good  man.  In  July  1678,  the  Lord  Bishop  and  Session  grant  *'  for  himself, 
bedfellow,  and  family,"  the  front  seat  under  the  Magistrates'  loft,  charging  for  it  a  yearly  rent 
of  £4  Scots. 

Like  many  another  good  man,  he  sometimes  lost  command  of  his  temper,  and  suffered 
accordingly.  **Wm.  Davidson,  writer,  was  put  to  the  Tolbooth  of  Kirkwall  for  not  finding 
caution  to  underli  the  law  for  ryving  a  discharge  of  ye  superior  dewtie  granted  by  Capt. 
Andrew  Dick  to  Margaret  Scollay,  relict  of  Wm.  Douglas  of  Midgarth,  anent  her  different 
lands  in  Stronsay. '  § 

Davidson  left  Kirkwall  in  1687  under  circumstances  suggestive  of  flight.  On  the  second 
of  January  1688,  George  Traill  of  Quendale  applied  for  "  the  seat  under  the  Magistrates'  Loft 
now  vacant  through  Wm.  Davidson's  away  going."  || 

He  was  evidently  in  such  haste  that  he  had  not  time  to  dispo.se  of  his  property,  and  these 
houses  were  seized  by  Robert  Scollay,  merchant,  on  the  ground  that  he  was  heir  to  the  man 
who  sold  the  houses  to  Davidson. 

But  "  by  Stat.  1663,  c,  6,  the  provost  and  bailies  of  royal  burghs  have  power  to  value  and 

•  Craven's  Hist.  Ch.  in  Orkney,  p.  69.      t  Fasti.      t  T.  B.      §  T.  B.,  16th  July  1678.      II  S.  R. 


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THE   SHORE.  119 

Bell  ruinous  houses  when  the  proprietors  refuse  to  rebuild  or  repair  them," '"'and  the  Magistrates, 
stretching  this  statute  to  its  utmost  limit,  ousted  ScoUay  and  took  possession  of  Davidson's 
houses. 

Next  to  Scollay's  land,  westward,  was  the  tenement ''  of  old  called  Cant's  lAnd.*' 

Cant  is  an  old  name  in  Kirkwall,  though  it  never  was  common.  In  '*  My  Lord  Sinclairis 
Kentale  that  deit  at  Flowdin,"  David  Cant  appears  as  one  of  four  burgesses  witnessing  James 
Craigie's  lease  of  the  island  of  Wyre,  1504.  John  Cant  appears  as  cautioner  in  a  money 
transaction  for  Magnus  Tait,  10th  April  161 7.t 

In  1671  this  house  was  owned  and  occupied  by  Margaret  and  Isobel  Cant.  With  a 
change  of  ownership,  the  north  part  of  Cant's  land  came  to  be  known  as  Kirkness'  land. 

On  27th  April  1799,  Alexander  Stewart,  merchant,  bought  that  "  tenement  under  thatch 
roof,  being  the  southermost  part  of  the  land  called  Cant's  Land." 

On  end  with  Cant's  land,  southward,  was  Sandison's  land.  This  house  was  built  by  John 
Sandisou,  weaver,  from  whom  it  passed  to  his  son  Walter.  Christian  Fea,  widow  of  Walter 
Sandison,  married  John  Irvine,  smith,  and  died  1670.  Irvine  thought  to  have  retained  quiet 
possession  of  the  house,  but  the  Magistrates  interposed.  "  Seeing  yr  is  no  laughfuU  air 
appearing  aither  after  John  or  Walter  Sandisons'  instructing  or  producing  ane  reall  right  to 
the  said  house  or  tenement,  therefore  the  saids  provost  and  bailyiea,  as  thir  incumbencie  and 
dewtie  alloweth  thame,  quher  such  lands  or  tenements  are  within  thir  precinct,  not  haveing 
laughful  air  or  successor  to  enter  i)ntlie  or  imediatlie  after  the  decease  of  the  former  heritor, 
to  be  careful  in  securing  the  samen  to  any  quha  shall  happin  to  appear  as  air  or  successor  to 
the  real  heretor  thereof." 

In  point  of  fact,  the  Burgh  remained  in  possession  of  Sandison's  land  and  the  a^oining 
Davidson's  houses  until  the  present  century,  when  these  proi)erties  were  sold  by  the  Town 
Council  to  Mr  David  Drever. 

Still  westward,  on  a  site  which  had  previously  belonged  to  Sinclair  of  Clumlie,  was  the 
"Great  Lodging"  of  the  Kendalls  of  Breck.  This  commodious  family  mansion  stood  on 
the  east  side  of  Long  Close.  Between  the  "  Great  Lodging  "  and  the  sea  was  a  smaller  house, 
"  without  a  yard,"  which  in  1677  belonged  to  Provost  Arthur  Baikie. 

The  Sheriff  Court  books  show  that  there  have  long  been  Kendalls  in  Kendall,  and  for 
many  years  this  family  took  a  very  active  part,  as  councillors  and  bailies,  in  conducting  the 
municipal  business  of  Kirkwall. 

Mitchell  Kendall,  the  first  of  the  family  who  can  be  traced  as  connected  with  this  house, 
and  who  probably  built  it,  brought  home  his  newly  wedded  wife,  Margaret  Moncrieff,  relict  of 
Edward  Elphingston,  skipper,  2nd  August  1686,  and  here  their  eldest  son,  William,  was  born, 
14th  October  same  year. 

Above  the  Kendall's  "  Great  Lodging."  and  forming  the  north-west  corner  of  the  Thwart 
Close,  was  the  house  of  Edward  Scollay,  skipper,  and  his  wife,  Marjorie  Kendall,  daughter  of 
the  next-door  neighbour,  the  Laird  of  Breck.  After  the  death  of  Marjorie  Kendall,  Scollay 
married  Mary  Baikie,  relict  of  John  Smith,  merchant,  and  granted  her  life-rent  of  this  house ; 
and  so  it  happened  that,  two  hundred  years  ago,  the  Thwart  Close  was  known  as  Mary  Baikie's 
Close. 

In  the  life  of  Edward  Scollay,  two  mishaps  are  recorded.  "  Oct.  9th,  Thursday  morning, 
about  two  or  three,  there  was  a  great  stress  of  wind,  whereby  the  ship  whereof  Ed.  Scollay  is 
skipper  drave  with  her  anchors  in  Papa  Stronsay  on  the  shore."  In  December  of  the  same 
year,  in  a  severe  northerly  gale,  "  Patrick  Fea's  ship  and  Edward  Scollay's,  lying  in  the  track 
of  the  Oyce,  they  were  both  blown  very  near  to  Pickaquoy."  I 

♦  Bell's  Diet,  and  Digest,  under  Burgh,  Royal.        t  Sheriff  CJourt  books.        J  T.  B, 


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120  KIRKWALL   Iir  THE  ORKNEYS. 

On  the  shore,  west  from  Provost  Baikie's  small  house,  and  forming  the  north-west  corner 
of  the  Long  Close,  stood  a  "  double  tenement  of  land "  belonging  to  Captain  Buchanan  of 
Busland.  Still  westward,  two  houses  retain  old  names — the  Butter  Storehouse  and  the 
"  house  called  Tounigar."  The  former  of  these,  as  the  name  implies,  was  the  depdt  for  the 
batter  skatt  paid  as  superior  duty  by  the  owners  of  land  within  the  earldom.  Orkney  butter, 
two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  was  not  famous  for  its  excellence,  and  skatt  butter  was 
simply  sold  as  grease.    Take  a  description  of  it  by  one  of  Cromwell's  garrison  : — 

**  Have  you  ever  been 
Downe  in  a  Tanner's  vard,  and  have  you  seene 
His  lime-pits,  when  the  tilthy  muck  and  haire 
Of  twenty  hides  is  washed  and  scrapt  off  there  ? 
Tis  Orknay  milk  in  colour,  thicknesse,  smell, 
Every  ingredient,  and  itt  eates  as  well. 
Take  from  the  bottom  up  an  handful  on't, 
And  that's  good  Orknay  butter,  ^e  upon't." 

It  afterwards  became  one  of  the  grievances  of  the  skatt  /p&yeTs  that,  while  their  ancestors 
Bent  in  stuff  somewhat  like  that  described  above,  they  had  to  pay,  weight  for  weight,  in  good 
batter. 

Tounigar,  containing  within  it  the  ideas  taum  and  gtiard,  may  perhaps  occupy  the  site  of 
the  first  Tolbooth  of  the  burgh.  The  history  of  the  house,  as  far  as  ownership  is  concerned, 
can  be  traced  back  into  the  sixteenth  century,  but  the  origin  of  the  name  seems  to  be  beyond 
leach.  In  1665  it  was  sold  by  Douglas  of  Spjmie  to  Mitchell  Kendall  of  Breck,  and  the 
sasine  shows  that  it  had  been  "  aired  be  NicoU  Hardie,  cordonr.,  Edinr.,  efter  the  decease  of 
Thomas  Hardie,  his  father,  and  Catherine  Dundas,  his  mother,  and  was  conqueist  be  them 
from  umql  Pat.  Sinclair  and  Marion  Flett,  his  spouse,  who  acquired  the  same  from  certaine 
brethren  and  sisters  of  the  Curse ttera."  ♦ 

Behind  the  Butter  Storehouse  and  Tounigar  stood  the  house  "  of  old  called  Gockhall," 
which,  in  1677,  belonged  to  Thomas  Dishington,  precentor.  A  hundred  years  earlier  it  had 
belonged  to  John  Dishington,  Sheriff  of  Orkney  and  Zetland.  There  is  no  record  of  the 
family  which  "  of  old  "  built  or  first  occupied  this  house.  They  and  their  dwelling  may  or 
may  not  have  called  forth  the  old  rhyme — 

"  Befa',  befa',  whate'er  befa', 
They'll  aye  be  gowks  in  yonder  ha'. " 

Gockhall  had  attached  to  it  a  large  yard,  which  came  into  the  possession  of  the  late  Samuel 
Laing,  Esq.  From  him  the  western  portion  was  bought  by  John  Heddle,  who  sold  it  to 
Captain  Thomas  Heddle,  grain  merchant. 

West  from  the  yard  of  Gockhall  was  a  house  which  had  belonged  to  John  Pottinger, 
skipper  and  chief  owner  of  the  "  bark  Sampsone."  In  September  1637,  Pottinger,  along  with 
Thomas  Drever,  became  cautioners  that  William  Paplay  of  Neirhouse  "  shall  not  molest  ane 
noble  and  potent  Lord  John,  Earle  of  Carrick."  In  1677  this  house  belonged  to  William 
Buchanan  of  Rusland. 

Next  to  this,  and  now  forming  part  of  the  Queen's  Hotel,  was  the  house  of  "Jonet 
Cursetter,  relict  of  umql  Thomas  Johnstoun,  sailler." 

These  two  tenements  had  for  the  southern  boundary  the  "  gallerie  yairds."  The  house  of 
old  called  the  Gallery  is  represented  by  the  house  of  the  Traills  of  Woodwick,  now  the  pro- 
perty of  Mr  Robert  Garden,  merchant ;  so  that  Jonet  Cursetter's  ground,  reaching  back  to  the 
north  wall  of  the  Gallery,  left  very  small  kail-yards  for  the  houses  on  the  east  side  of  Bridge 

Street. 

•  Sheriff  Court  books. 


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THE   RAMPARTS.  121 

The  Queen's  Hotel  has  long  been  an  inn.  In  1803  it  was  occupied  by  Robert  Sinclair, 
vintner,  who  borrowed  from  George  Shearer,  tacksman  of  Rothiesholm,  £120  on  a  bond  over 
this  property.  In  1824  it  fell  into  Shearer's  hands,  arid  it  was  bought  from  him  by  Benjamin 
Hewison,  in  whose  family  it  still  remains. 

The  three  tenements  at  the  west  end  of  Shore  Street  are  built  on  the  peat  brae  of  Traill 
of  Sabay,  whose  house  was  at  the  corner  of  Harbour  Street.  This  space  remained  vacant  till 
about  1820,  when  Greorge  Omond,  merchant,  put  up  the  place  afterwards  known  as  Kelday's 
Tavern. 

At  the  foot  of  what  is  now  Bridge  Street,  the  Shore  met  the  Aire— the  long  spit  of  shingly 
beach  which  shut  off  the  Oyce  from  the  open  waters  of  the  bay. 

The  sea  front  of  what  is  now  Harbour  Street  was  anciently  known  as  the  Ramparts,  and 
the  name  gives  the  history.  Here  fortifications  were  constructed  for  the  defence  of  the  burgh 
against  "  the  common  enemy."  As  to  the  structure  of  these  bulwarks  we  are  not  left  in 
ignorance,  and  the  provision  for  maintaining  them  is  frequently  referred  to  in  the  burgh 
records. 

In  1703,  when  the  Duke  of  Marlborough  was  busy  with  the  French  in  the  Low  Countries, 
the  Town  Council  were  also  busy  in  their  preparations  to  resist  foreign  invasion.  The 
Provost,  David  Traill,  was  living  out  at  Sabay  when,  on  an  alarm,  he  was  summoned  to  town. 
George  Spence,  town  treasurer,  enters  : — "  Item  to  Hairie  Delday's  sonne  for  goeing  to  Sabay 
and  Grahamshall  with  two  letters  for  getting  carriadges  to  the  guns,  6s." 

The  Provost  came  to  town,  and  immediately  took  action. 

**The  Magistrates  and  Counsill  present,  taking  to  their  consideratione  that  the  rampart  or 
bulwark  at  the  shoar  of  Kirkwall  is  almost  ruinous,  and  tha^  the  great  guns  or  Cannons  lying  there 
thir  Carriadges  are  old,  rotten,  and  useless,  and  that  fitt  and  necessar  it  is  that  the  said  rampart  or 
bulwark,  with  the  great  guns  and  thir  cariadges,  be  repaired  and  looked  to,  so  as  that  this  Bru^h 
may  be  in  a  better  posture  of  defence  against  the  comon  enemie  in  caice  of  invasion  :  Therefore  the 
saids  Magistrates  and  Counsill  present  finds  it  convenient,  and  statuts,  enacts,  and  appoynts  that  this 
efteruoone  the  said  rampart  or  bulwark,  and  the  saids  great  guns  with  thir  Cariadges,  be  viewed  and 
inspected  as  to  what  conditione  they  ar  for  the  present,  to  the  effect  speidie  and  tymous  course  may 
be  taken  for  repareing  of  the  rampart  or  bulwark,  and  for  repareins  of  the  cariadges  of  the  great  guns 
both  att  the  shoar  and  Mount,  and  for  that  effect  appoynts  the  Magistratts  and  Counsill  present  to 
attend  this  eftemoone  with  two  wrights  for  viewing  the  said  rampart,  guns  and  cariadges,  and  that 
the  Stewart  depute  of  Orkney  be  supplicat  pre«fentlie  for  his  giving  ordour  to  the  tennents  withn  the 
parish  of  St.  Olla  and  the  nixt  adjecent  paroches  for  giving  thir  assistance  for  cutting  and  carrieing 
teall  and  divott  to  the  said  rampart  and  bulwark  for  repareing  thereof,  conforme  to  use  and  wount. 

♦*  12th  June  1703.  (Signed)        David  Teaill." 

After  St.  Ola,  the  neighbouring  parishes  were  called  upon  to  do  their  share  : — 

"  Paid  to  Joseph  Jack,  officer,  for  ffoing  through  the  parish  of  Firth  with  the  Stewart  depute's 
ordour  for  Inbringing  the  parishioners  there  with  spaids,  shoveUs,  and  horses  to  repare  the  rampart, 

**  Item  to  Joseph  Jack  when  he  went  to  Holme  to  bring  in  that  paroch  with  horses  to  help  the 
rampart,  Ss." 

**  Item  to  thepyners,  officers,  and  others  that  helped  to  bigg  and  level  the  ramper  the  day  the 
Holme  people  earned  the  feale,  to  buy  6  pynts  aille,  128." 

**  Item  paid  for  8  pynts  aille  to  the  pyners,  officers,  and  wrights  at  dismounting  the  great  guns  at 
the  ramparts,  128." 

"  Item  given  for  a  pynt  of  aille  to  Thomas  Foubister  and  John  Sabiston,  wrights,  when  they  were 
appointed  to  view  the  timber  for  the  carriadges,  2s." 

"  Item  to  John  Nisbet,  Dean  of  Guild,  for  two  pieces  of  oak  to  be  Tumblers  to  the  great  guns, 
and  for  a  piece  of  oak  to  be  ane  axeltrie,  £13  6s  8d. 

*'  Item  paid  to  John  Nisbet,  Dean  of  Guild,  for  a  piece  of  oak  to  be  a  Cariadge  to  the  great  gun 
at  the  Mount,  168." 


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122  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

Anything  that  could  l>e  made  useful  in  the  defence  of  the  good  town  the  Magistrates 
regarded,  not  as  public  property  i)erhaps,  but  as  at  the  service  of  the  Council,  its  owner 
receiving  for  it  market  value.  Francis  Halcro,  dyer,  had  in  his  possession  a  piece  of  oak, 
"lyeing  besyde  him  useless,"  which  he  would  not  sell.  The  oak  was  seized,  and  Halcro, 
along  with  a  reprimand,  got  the  price  put  upon  it  by  two  wrights  sworn  to  do  justly. 

The  Magistrates  were  often  badly  off  for  ammunition,  and  we  find  many  applications  to 
persons  of  influence  to  get  supplies  from  Government. 

The  price  of  gunj)owder  in  Kirkwall  in  1672  was  2s  sterling  i)er  pound.  In  July  of  that 
year,  Wm.  Laughton  sold  to  Bailies  Thomas  Wilson,  Patrick  Traill,  and  David  Moncrieff, 
probably  for  the  use  of  the  guard  at  the  approaching  market,  4  lbs.  of  "pouther,"  which 
came  to  £4  16s  Scots. 

For  the  defence  of  the  Burgh,  in  addition  to  the  great  guns  at  the  llampart  and  the  gun 
at  the  Mount,  small  arms  were  freely  distributed  among  the  townsmen,  and  in  time  of  war  a 
s[)ecial  tax  was  imposed  "by  consent  of  the  indwellers,  which  stent  is  to  be  employed  for 
buying  ammunition  and  other  necessary  charges  for  defending  this  town  against  the  comon 
enemie."  In  1666,  when  the  Dutch  were  the  "  comon  enemie,"  the  order  was  issued  : — 
"  Therefore,  this  is  ordaining  all  within  the  town  to  make  reddie  i>ayt.  of  thir  proportions  to 
Patrick  Traill  and  John  Kaa,  collectors  above  the  Castel,  and  to  John  Caldell  and  Thomas 
Dishington,  collectors  appoynted  below  the  Castell."  The  stent  w^as  collected  and  the  powder 
was  bought. 

"On  ye  11  of  May  66,  the  ball,  of  ponder  yt  was  received  from  peitter  winchister  was 
weighed  ;  neat  weight  of  pouder,  seventie-two  pound  half-pound  ;  (jlk  ponder  and  weight  was 
taken  out  and  weighed  at  the  sight  of  Harie  Erbry,  Thomas  bakie,  and  Arthur  bakie,  and  qlk 
we  doe  Heirby  attest,  dait  and  place  forsd."  Then  follow  the  three  signatures  and  : — "  Ye 
half  ball,  or  eniptie  cask,  qlk  we  had  wt.  ye  i>ouder,  wyed  13p.  14oz.  just." 

Patrick  Traill  got  it  in  charge,  and  accounts  for  it  thus  : — 

"  Charge  of  puther  lx)ught  and  recead  wt.  ye  money  yt  belonged  to  the  inhabitants  of  Kirkwall 
since  May  66.  It.,  at  ye  sight  of  harie  Erborey  and  tho.  baikie,  ye  said  day,  viz.,  ye  11  March  66, 
yr  was  dclyt.  me,  from  peitter  Winchister,  ane  half  ball,  of  pouther,  wye<l  just  72  punds  ;  also,  on  the 
10  of  Aprill  yi-after,  I  bought  and  recead  38  punds  weight  of  pouther,  1  lOp. 

Disch.  on  the  day  of  May  66,  two  guns  fired 004p  ^p 

Also  on  the  29  of  May,'*  3  guns  fy red,  spent  006p 

also  yrafter,  ye  nixt  month,  at  severall  tymes,  uthr  3  guns  fired,  qlk  spent  uthr  6  pund  006p 

also,  on  ye  2  of  August  66,  delyt.  tho.  dishiiigtone,  pr.  order,  to  keep  ye  gaurd,  4p  pouther  004p 

also,  on  ye  11  of  August,  yr  was  fyred  two  gims  004p 

being  qn  peitter  winchister 's  frigate  came  in. 

qrafter  ded.  to  pat.  craigie  for  his  companie        ...         006p 

at  first  4p.,  yrafter  2p. 

delyt.  to  James  baikie's  company,  4p        004p 

to  tho.  Wilson's  company,  4p  4p 

038p 
Yrafter  sent  to  the  Mount  ane  half  firkin  of  pouther,  coutainand  about  20  or  22p  weight  022p 


qlk  was  not  spent         060p 


Sua  remains  to  compt  for  to  make  up  the  above  wreatten  charge,  50p  pouther      50p 

but  I  have  at  psnt.  remaining  upwards  of  60p  pouther,  because  I  preserved  cai-thages  of  pouther  that 
belonged  to  peitter  winchister. " 

In  1703  the  muskets  distributed  among  the  townspeople  belonged  to  the  Earl  of  Morton, 
and  were  got  from  him  on  a  petition  being  sent  requesting  the  use  of  them  : — 

*  King's  birthday. 


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THE  RAMPARTS.  123 

**  For  the  Right  Honorabill  the  E^rle  of  Mortoune,  etc.,  the  humble  desyre  of  the  Inhabitants  of 
the  toune  of  Kirkwall  unto  your  Lo/, 

"  Humblie  Sheweth, — It  is  not  unknowine  unto  yor  Lo/  the  great  dainger  that  we  have  beene  at 
this  many  yeires  bygone  by  pirosie,  as  also  our  great  sufferinKS  by  taiking  our  ships  by  sea  by  the 
comoune  enemie,  anoplundenng  your  Lo/  Houses,  Islands,  and  Lands,  quhairein  we  ar  concerned  of  our 
haill  stocks,  stuff,  and  furniture,  appropriating  it  to  the  comoune  enemie  the  samyn  at  thair  disposal, 
to  our  great  damage  and  I^ss,  qch  renoares  us  now  not  aible  to  serve  his  Ma'tie  nor  defend  our  selves 
as  then  we  war,  etc. 

"  Thairfore  we  humblie  Begg  that  yor  Lo/  wold  be  graciouslie  pleased  to  suffer  yor  depute  heire 
and  give  power  to  him  to  deteine  in  his  keeping,  for  the  defence  of  his  Ma'tie,  the  countrey,  and  this 
poore  toune  qrin  we  are  present  inhabitants,  the  small  guns  that  yor  Lo/  left  within  the  saniyne 
toune,  qrby  we  may  be  ay  the  more  aible  to  serve  his  Ma'tie  and  to  defend  our  selves,  etc." 

Following  upon  this  we  have  "  Ane  list  of  the  Inhabitants  within  the  Brugh  of  Kirkwall 
who  are  presently  to  receave  from  Mr  Henry  Leggat,  Stewart  and  Justitiar  Deput  of  Orkney, 
the  muskets  or  small  arms  aftermentioned,  which  annes  are  presently  in  the  custodie  of  the 
said  Mr  Leggat,  to  be  keeped  by  the  saids  Inhabitants,  and  to  be  cleared  and  dressed  by  them, 
and  accordingly  restored  back  to  the  said  Stewart  deput  when  requyred." 

Sixty- three  were  given  out,  seven  persons  receiving  two,  one  presumably  for  a  grown-up 
son  or  a  man-servant.     One  of  those  who  received  two  was  Alexander  Fraser,  gunsmith. 

And  this  defence  of  the  town  was  not  ineffective,  for  at  least  on  one  occasion  the  guns 
of  the  Hampart  and  Mount  put  to  flight  one  of  the  ships  of  the  "common  enemy"  which  had 
put  into  the  bay  for  hostile  purposes.  "  In  his*  time,  warrs  being  betwixt  our  King  and  the 
Hollanders,  a  Hollands  Privateer  came  and  assaulted  the  town  of  Kirkwall  :  shooting 
many  Guns  at  it ;  but,  by  the  providence  of  God,  none  was  killed  or  hurt,  though,  by  the 
Guns  from  the  Town  and  Mount,  the  ship  of  the  Enemie  was  much  damnified  and  had  several 
of  their  men  slain."  t 

Thoughtless  people  were  not  sufficiently  careful  of  the  Burgh  bulwark.  It  was  recom- 
mended to  the  Magistrates  **  to  take  notice  of  such  as  carrie  off  muck  from  the  town,  espeaci- 
ally  from  the  Rampart,  which  exceedingly  weakens  the  same."  X 

The  first  house  on  the  Rampart  was  built  by  Sir  David  Sinclair  of  Swinbrucht,  son  of 
William,  Earl  of  Orkney,  and  brother  of  Henry,  Lord  Sinclair,  who  got  a  lease  of  the  earldom 
in  1501.  It  was  in  the  middle  of  what  is  now  Harbour  Street,  and  it  dates  from  the  latter 
half  of  the  fifteenth  century.  When  Sir  David  was  in  Orkney,  this  was  his  town  house.  In 
the  sasines  it  is  entered  as  '^  of  old  called  the  Inns."  § 

**  The  Testament  of  Sir  David  Sincler  of  Swynbrucht.  In  the  name  of  God,  Amen,  be  it  kend  til 
al  men  and  be  knawin  yat  I,  David  Sincler  of  Swynbrucht,  knyt,  seik  in  my  bodye,  nevir  ye  less  hail 
into  my  mynde,  maks  my  testament  in  manr.  and  form  as  efter  foUowis  : — Item  in  ye  fyrst,  I  leif  and 
commendis  my  saule  to  God  Almychtie,  in  quhaiis  protection  and  defenss  I  do  cal  ye  blyssit  virgen 
Mare  and  al  ye  sancts  in  hevin.  Item,  I  leir  my  boaye  to  be  erdit  in  Sanct  Magnus  Kyrk  of  Tyng- 
well.  Item,  to  protec  and  defend  my  Testament,  I  chuse  and  order  descreit  men,  ytis  to  say,  Richard 
Lesk  and  Thorrold  of  Brucht  veray  executors  of  this  testament,  the  qlks  sal  dispone  my  geir,  bayth 
wrettin  and  ounvrettin,  as  yai  vil  answer  befor  God.  Item,  I  leif  nathing  to  my  Lorde  Sincler  hot  ye 
of  Zetland  for  this  year  pnt.,  to  the  qlk  Lorde  I  geive  and  leiile  all  ye  lands  yat  I  poscessit 
after  my  fadir  deide,  in  Zetland,  and  my  best  silver  stope,  wyt  twelfe  stoppis  incluseit  in  ye  same,  wt 
my  schipe  callit  ye  calvill,  wt  hir  ptinents  and  twa  saddelis.  Item,  I  leife  to  my  Ladye  Sincler  my 
myd  stope  of  silver,  wt  twelft  stoppis  incluseit  in  ye  samen.  Item,  I  leife  to  ye  sone  and  aire  of 
Henry,  Lord  Sincler,  my  best  silver  stope,  wt  sex  stoppis  incluseit  in  ye  samen,  and  wt  all  the  move- 
abill  oests  yt  are  contenit  in  ye  lands  aftir  assignit  to  my  Lord  his  fadir.  Item,  I  leife  to  my  Bruder, 
Sir  Wm.  Sincler,  Erie  of  Cathtness,  my  Innes  in  Edinbrucht  wt  ye  pertinents.  Item,  I  leife  to  Sir 
WilUiam  Sincler,  ye  knycht,  my  Doublet  of  clotht  of  gold  and  my  gray  satin  gownde,  wt  thre  ostreche 
feddirs.      Item,  I  leife  to  Ollave  ortsone  my  blak  gownde  of  dames  wt  silver  buttones.     Item,  I  give 

*  Bishop  Honyman's.        t  Wallace.        if  C.  R.,  5th  May  1724. 
§  English  county  families  were  content  to  call  their  town  house  their  **  Inn,"  as  Lincoln's  Inn^ 
Grey's  Inn  ;  but  Scottish  lairds  made  the  most  of  small  things,  and  dubbed  theirs  "  Inns." 


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124 


KIRKWALL   IN    THE   ORKNEYS. 


and  leife  to  Gertrude  tnv  gret  silver  belt  and  ane  pece  of  clotht  of  gold  ye  lyntht  of  ane  flanders  ellin. 
I  leif  to  Win.  Flete  and  his  Bruder,  Christe  Flete,  my  littill  schipe,  wt  al  geir,  and  al  my  lands  in 
Orknay,  wt  my  Inns  in  Kirhoail,  etc." 

Among  other  bequests,  he  leaves  to  James  Sinclair,  "Capitaine  for  ye  tyme  in  Dingvill," 
all  his  moveable  property  in  Ross,  "excep  my  red  cote  of  welwote,  ye  qlk  I  leife  to  ye  hie 
altar  of  ye  Cathedral  Kyrk  of  Orknay." 

He  leaves  to  each  of  his  sons  one  hnndred  merks  land,  and  each  of  his  daughters  fifty. 

His  executors  are  well  left.  Thorrold  gets  Glaitness,  Lingrow,  Pabdale,  and  Brucht ; 
Richard  Lesk  gets  twenty  merks  laud  and  '*  my  Inglis  schipe  wt  al  geir."  There  must  have 
been  something  unusual  about  the  purchase  of  that  ship,  for  one  item  is— "xv.  merks  I 
ordaine  to  be  paiet  to  ye  Inglisman  yat  saulde  me  ye  schipe." 

"  Item,  I  leife  to  Magnus  Sincler  my  blew  doublet,  ye  breist  set  wt  preciouss  standLs  ;  and 
my  hude,  set  wt  precious  standis  ;  and  my  golden  chenye,  ye  qlk  I  weirr  dailly." 

He  leaves  a  chalice  to  St.  Magnus  in  Dingwall. 

"  Item,  I  give  and  leife  to  my  sister  dwelland  in  Orknay  all  my  guds  yat  are  in  Pappay 
And  Housbe." 

"  Item,  I  lefe  to  Sr.  Magnus  Halcrowe,  twa  nobills  and  ye  boke  of  gude  maidess." 

"  Item,  I  give  to  St.  George^s  alter  in  Rosskryill*  my  golden  chenye,  ye  qlk  is  callit  ane 
collar,  ye  qlk  chenye  ye  Kying  of  Denmark  gave  me." 

He  leaves  all  his  "  brutal  bests  that  is  in  Oxvoe  "  to  his  nephew,  **  Henre  Sincler." 

"  Item,  I  leife  ye  fructs  of  my  lands  of  this  yeir's  cropt  to  ye  puir  folks." 

There  are  many  other  bequests,  both  of  money  and  goods,  showing  great  wealth  ;  and  the 
will  concludes  :— "  Giftin  at  Tyngwell,  ye  yeir  of  God 
MD.  and  sex  yeiris,  ye  aucht  day  of  ye  visitation  of 
our  Ladye." 

Sir  David  Sinclair's  Inns  was  a  large  mansion, 
and,  next  to  the  Castle  and  Palace,  must  have  been 
the  most  important  house  in  the  town. 

From  1506,  when  by  bequest  it  became  the 
property  of  William  and  Christopher  Flett,  we  know 
nothing  of  the  Inns  for  more  than  one  hundred  years. 
It  was  too  large  for  any  ordinary  family,  so  it  was 
divided  into  two  parts,  each  being  enough  for  the 
requirements  of  a  wealthy  burgess. 

Some  of  the  occupants  of  the  Inns  have  been 
leading  men  in  the  town.  On  a  putt  stone  at  the 
back  of  the  St.  Ola  Hotel  are  the  initials  P.T.,  with 

the  date  1639.  In  his  will,  Alexander  Taylor,  1629,  refers  to  his  brother  Peter  as  owner  of 
the  house  called  the  Inns,  and  Peter  Taylor  must  have  rebuilt  or  repaired  the  eastern  portion 
of  the  old  mansion. 

Meantime,  three  generations  of  the  Grotts  of  Odness — Nicol,  William,  and  Hew — had 
owned  the  other  half,  when,  in  1647,  the  last-named  sold  it  to  John  Cuthbert  and  Margaret 
Chalmers,  his  spouse.  Cuthbert  put  up  a  new  house  on  the  site,  and  for  his  western  boundary 
he  had  the  Girnell  "  newly  built."  A  putt  stone  from  this  tenement,  inscribed  "  I.C.,  M.C., 
1643" — John  Cuthbert,  Margaret  C!)halmers — is  preserved  in  the  house  now  called  the  Store- 
house, but  where  the  latter  stands  there  was,  in  Cuthbert's  time,  a  passage  between  his 
dwelling  and  the  Girnell-house. 

*  Roskilde. 


Putt  Stone  at  back  of  St  Ola  Hotel. 


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THK  RAMPARTS. 


125 


Putt  Stone  preserved  in  Storehouse. 


Of  John  Cuthbert  we  know  a  good  deal,  and  we  can  surmise  more.  He  was  Gimell- 
keeper  to  Sir  William  Dick  of  Braid.  He  was  probably  the  father-in-law  of  the  Rev.  Mr 
Wallace,  and  he  certainly  was  much  respected  in  the  church.  He  got  from  the  Session  a  seat 
in  the  stalls  for  "  himself  and  bed-fellow,  their  heirs  and 
successors."    His  monument  is  in  the  north  nave  aisle. 

A  carved  lintel  stone  over  a  doorway  at  the  back  of 
the  Inns  is  inscribed  "  D.M.  1669.  I.A."  The  persons 
indicated  here  are  David  Moncrieflf,  skipper,  and  Isobel 
Anderson,  his  wife,  widow  of  Patrick  Smith  of  Braco. 
Having  made  a  competency  and  retired  from  the  sea, 
Moncrieff  was  successively  Councillor,  Bailie,  and  Dean- 
of-Guild.  The  Orkney  Moncrieffs  were  a  branch  of  the 
Perthshire  family,  Moncrieff  of  Moncrieff. 

The  Bailie  had  a  brother,  Harry,  also  a  Kirkwall 
skipper,  and  on  a  failure  in  the  direct  line  of  the  Perth- 
shire Moncrieffs,  Harry's  son,  Thomas,  succeeded  to  the 
baronetcy.  The  former  Sir  Thomas  seems  to  have  at 
one  time  intended  to  mark  his  connection  with  Kirkwall 
by  doing  something  for  the  church.  At  a  meeting  of 
Session,  6th  Sept.  1710,*  "  Mr  Baikie  reported  that  the 
Lady  Moncrief,  elder,  had  told  him  that  her  husband,  Sir  Thomas  Moncrief  of  that  ilk,  had 
mortified  500  merks  to  the  Kirk  of  Kirkwall,  and  that  the  said  Sir  Thomas,  being  present, 
confirmed  it  and  desired  to  cause  speak  to  his  nephew  thereanent.     The  Session  appoints  a 

letter  to  be  written  to  Moncrief, 

1  yor.,  and  appoints  to  write  to  Nicol 
Spence,  agent  for  the  Church,  to 
inform  himself  anent  the  nature  of 
that  mortification,  and  to  take  care 
that  it  be  made  effectual." 

Apparently,  however,  it  had 
not  been  made  effectual,  for,  nearly 
five  years  later,  t  **the  Session, 
considering  that  Sir  Thomas  Mon- 
crief, who  mortified  some  (money  ?) 
to  this  church,  as  we  are  informed, 
is  now  departed  this  life.  Therefore  appoints  a  letter  to  be  written  to  his  heir,  this  present 
Laird  of  Moncrief,  to  know  what  it  is,  and  if  it  so  be  to  receive  it,  and  appoints  to  speak  to 
his  brother,  Harie  Moncrief  of  Rapness,  that  he  may  please  to  write  alongst  to  his  said  brother 
in  favours  of  this  Session."  In  a  week  there  was  a  reply  from  Rapness  that  he  would  forward 
the  letter  "  under  his  own  cover  "  ;  and  there  the  matter  ends.  There  is  no  trace  of  the  money 
ever  having  been  received  by  the  church. 

Bailie  Moncrieff  of  the  Inns  was  a  member  of  the  Orkney  Golf  Club.  James  Dickson, 
writing  from  Kirkwall,  1685,  says  : — "  Ye  will  remember  to  bring  with  you  one  dozen  of 
common  golf  ballis  to  me  and  David  Moncrieff,"  J  The  Ba'lea  seems  at  that  time  to  have 
been  the  home  green  of  the  Kirkwall  players :— "  Gentlemen  of  Kirkwall  have  been  in  the 
use  of  diverting  themselves,  when  they  thought  proper,  on  a  piece  of  ground  called  the 

*  S.  R.  t  S.  R.,  13th  April  1715. 

X  **  Golf,"  by  Horace  G.  Hutchison,  Badminton  Series,  p.  15. 


'»r 


•^^^.-    - 


rd  *  I  u  'j  y' J"  •*/'-•" 


Lintel  Stone  over  a  Doorway  at  the  back  of  the  Inns. 


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126  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Bailey  of  Kirkwall,  adjacent  to  the  lands  of  South  Pabdale,  at  the  golf  or  other 
diversions."*  But  for  a  week's  outing,  the  Kirkwall  players  resorted  to  Sanday,  and  had 
their  foursomes  over  the  plain  of  Fidge.  Their  yearly  festival  was  held  on  the  sixteenth  of 
April,  St.  Magnus  Day.  As  there  were  then  no  hotels  in  Sanday,  the  annual  dinner  of  the 
club  would  take  the  circuit  of  Stove  and  Elsness,  Newark  and  Lopness,  and  round  the 
hospitable  board  of  Fea  or  Traill,  Stewart  or  Elphingston,  the  members  would  fight  their 
battles  over  again  as  long  as  they  could  see  each  other.t  There  were  many  of  his  name  in 
Kirkwall  in  David  Moncrieff's  time— Anna,  wife  of  Harie  Erburie,  merchant,  Broad  Street ; 
Jean,  wife  of  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards  ;  Margaret,  who  married  Edward  Elphingston, 
skipper,  and  afterwards  Mitchel  Kendall  of  Breck ;  Thomas,  merchant,  Kirkwall  ;  and 
William,  student  of  Divinity. 

David's  only  daughter,  Barbara,  married  Alexander  Hunter  of  Nearhouse,  and  went  south 
with  her  husband.  + 

After  Bailie  Moncrieff's  death,  13th  Jan.  1691,  his 
house  passed  into  the  hands  of  Alexr.  Dalmahoy,  Col- 
lector of  Customs. 

In  taking  down  a  house  in  1891  for  the  erection  of 
the  Orkney  Club,  a  lintel  above  a  fireplace  was  found 

with  the  initials,  "H.N.,  A.T.,  1760."  §  These  refer  to  Harry  Nisbet,  who  married  Anna 
Traill,  daughter  of  George  Traill  of  Holland,  1751.  Harry  was  for  a  time  keeper  of  the 
Girnell,  in  succession  to  his  father,  John  Nisbet. 

In  the  account  of  the  pundlar  process,  a  high  tribute  is  paid  to  the  memory  of  John 
Nisbet  as  a  just  man.  He  was  the  first  Gimell-man  who  dispensed  with  the  old  weighing 
instruments  and  bought  and  sold  by  beam  and  scale. 

Harry's  son,  William,  desired  to  go  to  Jamaica,  and  on  the  security  of  this  house  he 
borrowed  from  James  Stewart,  merchant  in  Kirkwall,  a  sum  of  £100  stg.  Under  this  bond 
Nisbet  sold  his  house  to  "John  Scollay,  of  Kingston,  in  the  County  of  Surry  and  Island  of 
Jamaica." 

In  the  Scollay  titles,  1788,  the  southern  boundary  is  given  as  the  Little  Sea,  perhajis  the 
first  time  the  Oyce  is  so  named  in  a  legal  document. 

In  1810,  Peter  Scollay,  weaver,  Kirkwall,  succeeded  his  elder  brother  in  this  property,  and 
still  the  Peerie  Sea  was  its  southern  boundary. 

The  eastern  part  of  the  Inns,  as  we  have  seen,  belonged  in  1629  to  Peter  Taylor,  and  it 
remained  in  possession  of  this  family  for  a  considerable  time.  In  1695,  James  Baikie  of 
Tankemess  had  it,  and  sold  it  to  Marjorie  Halcro.  At  that  date  it  is  described  as  *'  being  ane 
sclaite  house,  build  and  biggit  upon  ane  pairt  of  the  ground  and  Land  of  old  called  the  Inns." 

Marjory  Halcro,  relict  of  George  Spence  of  Oversea  pa,  with  her  son,  John,  grant  sasine  to 
Thomas  Linay,  carpenter,  of  the  "  Tenement  of  Land  and  odal  yaird  and  peit  yaird  belonging 
thereto,"  and  it  remained  in  possession  of  this  family  for  over  a  hundred  and  twenty-five 
years.  In  1695  the  southern  boundary  was  the  Pottinger's  yaird,  **  of  old  called  the  Culrsetter's 
yaird."    Down  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  the  whole  of  Harbour  Street  was 

*  Mackintosh's  **  Curious  Incidents,"  p.  242,  from  Burgh  Records,  1783. 

t  Golf  on  the  Ba'lea  had  been  long  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  the  reference  to  it  on  the  occasion  of 
the  sale  of  Pabdale  in  1783  was  simply  with  a  view  to  guard  public  rights.  After  having  been  extinct 
in  Orkney  probably  since  "  the  Forty-five,"  the  game  was  revived  in  Kirkwall  in  1884  by  Angus 
Buchanan,  Esq.,  of  the  National  Bank.  His  enthusiasm  attracted  players,  and  his  energy  rendered 
golf  possible  by  creating  a  course  out  of  a  piece  of  marshy  ground  lying  conveniently  near  the  town. 

It  T.  B.,  8th  Sept.  1687* 

§  The  stone  was  so  saturated  with  soot  and  smoke  that  it  could  not  be  again  used  for  building 
purposes. 


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THE   RAMPARTS.  127 

occupied  by  four  tenements,  two  of  them  occupying  the  site  of  the  Inns.  But  as  time  passed 
and  population  increased,  the  peat  braes  between  the  houses  were  built  upon. 

In  1895,  the  whole  of  "the  Ground  and  Land  of  old  Called  the  Inns*'  was  in  the  hands  of 
one  proprietrix,  Mrs  John  Geddes,  of  hospitable  fame,  and  the  space  contained  an  hotel,  a 
steamboat-office,  a  club-house,  and  a  dwelling-house. 

The  Ramparts  terminated  eastward  in  the  Girnell.  In  John  Cuthbert's  titles,  1647,  his 
western  boundary  is  given  as  "the  King's  New  house  or  Girnell,"*  and  here  we  have  an 
approximation  to  the  date  of  its  erection.  On  the  east  end  a  dwelling-house  was  built  about 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century. 

Nearly  in  front  of  the  Girnell  is  the  jetty  known  as  the  Corn-slip,  a  name  which 
commemorates  the  time  when  the  grain  rents  were  landed  here.  For  the  proper  handling  of 
the  corn,  a  kiln  was  erected  on  the  west  end  of  the  Girnell. 

In  1818,  the  Town  Council  "of  new"  ratified,  approved,  and  confirmed  John  Traill 
Urquhart's  right  to  the  piece  of  waste  ground  lying  at  the  west  end  of  the  shore  of  Kirkwall, 
"  commencing  at  a  point  at  a  distance  of  40  feet  of  rule  from  the  covered  way  leading  into  the 
Kiln-hogy  of  the  Girnel  House  belonging  to  Lord  Dundas." 

The  Girnell  was  one  of  the  most  important  institutions  in  the  county.  There  were  two, 
the  Earl's  or  King's  as  the  case  might  be,  and  the  Bishop's.  When  rents  and  scatt  were  paid 
in  kind,  the  Girnell  was  the  receptacle  for  the  oats,  here,  meal,  and  malt  that  were  annually 
brought  in  by  the  tenants.  The  oil  and  butter  payments  were,  as  has  been  seen,  rendered  at 
the  Butter  Storehouse.  The  keeper  of  the  King's  Girnell  was  Chamberlain  of  the  Earldom,  and 
the  duties  of  his  office  were  not  light.  He  received  the  rents,  and  what  he  could  not  turn  into 
money  in  Orkney  he  shipped  and  sold  in  southern  markets.  But  bad  years  were  of  frequent 
recurrence,  and  these  gave  the  Girnell-man  much  trouble.  He  could  not  see  people  starve 
while  he  had  provisions  ;  yet,  in  a  place  where  money  was  scarce  and  the  means  of  procuring 
it  limited,  bad  debts,  for  which  he  was  responsible,  were  numerous,  and  prosecutions  were 
frequent  and  often  fruitless.      "  Att  Kirkwall,  the  Day  of  Apryll,  One  Thousand  Seven 

Hundred  and  Thrie  years,  The  quhilk  day  ffor  sameikle  as  William  Liddell,  William  Fea,  and 
John  Covingtrie,  three  of  the  present  Baillies  of  the  said  Burgh,  did,  by  their  decreit  of  the 
date  after  mentioned,  Deceme  and  Ordaine  the  persons  after  exprest  to  make  payment  and 
satisfactione  to  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  receiver  of  Her  Ma'tie's  rents  of  the  Stewartrie 
of  Orkney,  of  the  soums  of  money  underwritten  as  the  pryces  of  malt  and  meall  taken  up  be 
them  out  of  her  Ma'tie's  Girnell  crops,  Jajvij.t  and  One  years,  ilk  ane  of  them  for  their  own 
parts  in  manner  after  devysed."  Then  follows  a  list  of  ten  debtors,  ranging  in  the  Girnell 
books  from  £6  to  £56,  and  representing  a  total  of  £264  3s  2d.  To  cover  the  costs,  Mr  Young 
got  decree  for  "  two  shillings  in  ilk  pound  for  expenses  of  plea." 

The  price  of  meal  and  malt  paid  into  the  Girnell  was  fixed  in  the  Fiars'  Court,  but  the 
price  of  what  was  given  out  depended  upon  the  state  of  the  markets,  which  might  vary 
between  the  times  of  the  paying  in  and  the  selling  out.  And  in  the  dealings  of  private 
individuals  this  distinction  required  to  be  observed.  In  1629  two  burgesses  bought  a  quantity 
of  malt  from  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  who  prosecuted  for  girnel  price,  when  "The 
defenders,  being  deeplie  and  solemnlie  sworn.  They  depone  both  of  them  that  what  malt  they 
received  was  all  taken  out  upon  payment  of  the  fiar  pryce  of  the  Countray,  without  ever 
mentioning  the  girnell  pryce." 

The  Bishopric  Girnell,  which  in  the  days  of  the  later  prelates  was  in  the  Palace,  had 
experiences  similar  to  that  of  the  Earldom.  "  Forsameikle  as  it  is  humblie  meant  and  showen 
To  us  Be  William  Young,  Keeper  of  the  girnell  of  the  Bishopric  of  Orkney,  that  the  persones 

♦  Sheriflf  Court  Books.  t  mdoc. 


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128  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

after  named  ar  Justlie  resting  awing  and  adebted  to  the  pursV  the  particular  sowmes  of 
money  underwritten,  and  that  for  malt  taiken  up  be  them  out  of  the  said  girnall/'  and  decree 
was  granted. 

The  year  1699  seems  to  have  been  very  severe  upon  the  poorer  inhabitants  of  Kirkwall, 
and  we  find  the  Town  Council  and  the  Kirk  Session  purchasing  grain,  for  distribution,  from 
Sir  William  Craigie  of  Gairsay,  who  then  farmed  the  Crown  rents.  Sir  William,  on  the  6th 
May,  grants  receipt  of  £300  Scots,  and  on  the  12th  June  of  the  same  year,  his  wife,  in  her 
husband's  absence,  acknowledges  receipt  of  £199  15s  Scots,  to  account  "of  ane  quantitie  of 
Bear  and  Meall  received  by  saids  Magistratts,-  minister,  and  Counsell  of  Kirkwall." 

The  year  1730  was  a  bad  one  in  Orkney,  and  we  find  the  Council  taking  a  sum  of  £300 
out  of  the  charter  chest  to  buy  in  a  stock  of  meal  for  winter. 

In  1731  times  were  still  hard,  and  the  Earl  of  Morton's  Gimel-man  had  orders  to  sell  meal 
to  the  inhabitants  of  Kirkwall  at  half  a  merk  per  boll  below  the  fiars'  prices.  The  years  1739, 
1740,  and  1741  were  bad  years  in  Orkney,  and  many  died  of  want.  In  1765,  a  "year  of  great 
famine,"  the  Free  Masons  subscribed  largely  towards  buying  meal  for  the  poor. 

That  corn  riots  wefe  not  unknown  in  times  of  scarcity,  the  following  petition  goes  to 
prove  : — 

**  10th  February  1800. 

"  Unto  the  Honble.  His  Majesty's  Justices  of  the  Peace  for  the  County  of  Orkney,  the  Humble 
Petition  of  the  Deacons  of  the  Four  Incorporations  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  for  them- 
selves, and  in  name  and  by  desire  of  the  respective  Freemen  and  Members  thereof, 

"  Most  Respectfully  Sheweth  that  at  no  time  is  the  interposition  of  Magistrates  so  necessary  as 
during  Public  Scarcity. 

**  That  at  present  there  is  a  great  dearth  of  Oat  and  Com  Meall  in  the  Country,  the  little  to  be 
got  advancing  in  the  price  and  attended  with  difficulty  in  procuring  it,  whereby,  if  it  is  of  any  long 
continuance,  our  Trade  and  Manufactures  will  be  ruined. 

**  Notwithstanding  whereof,  the  Petitioners  are  very  certain  that  vast  quantities  of  Grain  are 
now  hoarded  up  and  Monopolized  in  Orkney  by  diflferent  persons,  which  is  Wicked  in  the  time  of 
Calamity,  and  is  intended  by  them  to  be  Shipped  immediately  to  other  parts  beyond  this  jurisdiction 
for  the  gain  of  an  additional  price,  thereby  taking  the  Bread  out  of  the  mouths  of  their  own  Laborious 
Poor  at  Home  and  sending  it  to  the  Inhabitants  of  Another  Country  for  filthy  lucre,  which  is  a  sin. 

**  That  the  Petitioners  are  informed  that  the  Legislature  has  vested  your  Honours  with  Authority 
on  such  an  Emergency  to  prevent  the  Exportation  of  Victual  beyond  your  own  jurisdiction,  or  to 
provide  remedy  against  Dearth. 

'*  That  the  Petitioners  are  anxious  to  prevent  any  combinations  or  rising  of  the  people  on  this 
occasion,  and  consider  it  to  be  their  duty  to  Entreat  and  Beseech  of  your  Honours,  with  all  convenient 
speed,  to  take  such  measures  for  preventing  the  Exportation  aforesaid,  or  for  supplying  the  Necessity 
of  the  Poor,  or  otherwise  as  to  your  Wisdoms  shall  seem  proper. 

"  And  your  Petitioners  shall  ever  Pray. 

(Signed)        Oliver  Scott. 
Jambs  Cobban. 
Lawrence  Shanon. 
James  Fraseb." 

There  is  a  tradition  that  on  one  occasion,  when  the  Girnell-man  was  holding  on  for  higher 
prices,  George  Eunson,  Extraordinary  Officer  of  Excise,  headed  a  crowd,  broke  open  the  door 
of  the  Qirnell-house,  sold  meal  to  those  who  could  pay  for  it,  placed  the  money  where  it  would 
be  found  by  the  Girnell-man,  secured  the  door,  and  came  away. 

In  such  times  the  exportation  of  grain  from  the  county  was  prohibited,  and  the  trans- 
portation of  grain  from  one  port  to  another  was  carefully  watched. 

"Forsameikle  as  be  his  Majestie*s  proclamation,*  Intituled  proclamatione  Dischargeinff  export 
and  allowing  Import  of  victuall,  Dated  at  Edinr.  the  nynth  day  of  November  last  bj-past,  -^1  kynds 
of  viotuall,  either  mealle,  whyt,  ryes,  oats,  pease,  barley,  or  bear,  malted  or  not  malted,  or  anv  other 
graine  or  victuall  whatsomever,  Is  most  strictly  prohibited  and  discharged  to  be  exported  mrth  of 

•  19th  April  1699. 


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THE  BAMPARTS.  129 

this  Kingdome  by  any  persones  whatsomever,  either  by  Land  or  Sea,  efter  the  date  forsaid  of  the  said 
proclamation,  under  the  paines  therein  and  eftermentioned,  viz.,  the  forfaulture  of  the  victuall  oflfered 
to  be  exported  for  the  use  of  the  poore  of  the  bounds  where  the  samen  shall  be  attached  and  seased, 
or  the  value  thereof  where  the  same  is  proven  to  be  exported,  and  Lykeways  of  the  forefalture  of  the 
horse,  shipe,  boat,  or  other  veshell  whereby  the  same  shall  be  attempted  to  be  exported,  and  also  of 
the  value  of  ten  pounds  Scots  money  over  and  above  for  each  boll  that  shall  be  found  to  be  exported 
or  offered  to  be  exported,  and  proven  or  attached  and  saisd  as  said  is,  to  be  payed  by  the  awner, 
skipper,  or  exporter ;  And  that  such  as  shall  be  found  transgressing,  and  have  not  to  pay  the  foresaid 
paine,  shall  be  punished  in  their  bodies  by  imprisonment,  to  be  fedde  with  bread  and  watter  or 
scourgeing  at  the  discretione  of  the  Judge/' 

The  above  is  the  opening  and  about  a  fifth  part  of  the  petition  of  "John  Stewai-t  of 
Burgh,  in  the  Illeand  of  Sanday,"  for  permission  "  to  transport  the  quantitie  of  two  hundreth 
and  eightie  bolls  beare  from  the  ylleand  of  Sanday,  in  Orkney,  upon  ane  bark  or  veshell,  to 
some  port  or  ports  within  this  Kingdoine,  to  be  sold  for  the  use  of  His  Majestie's  subjects 
within  the  samen  allenarlie." 

The  tenement  at  the  east  end  of  the  Ramparts,  bounded  westward  by  the  Inns,  belonged, 
as  far  back  as  can  be  traced,  to  Patrick  Smith  of  Braco,  son-in-law  of  Bishop  Graham.  It 
afterwards  came  into  possession  of  Patrick  Traill  of  Elsness,  who,  in  1677,  had  upon  that  site 
"twa  large  double  tenements  under  sclaitt  roof,  pntlie  possest  be  himself,  betwixt  the  king's 
hie  street  towards  the/>ter  and  shoir  on  the  north,  the  king's  hie  street  on  the  east,  &c." 

Patrick  Traill,  skipper,  is  his  familiar  title  before  1668,  in  which  year  he  bought  Elsness 
from  John  Qrott.  He  married,  1654,  Elspeth  Pottinger.  Traill  had  been  for  some  time  in 
partnership  with  his  father-in-law,  for  in  1656  the  two  of  them  sold  a  ship  **  for  their  common 
interest." 

A  part  of  Patrick's  journal,^  still  extant,  shows  that  a  good  business  man  needs  not  be 
trammelled  by  conventional  modes  of  spelling.  On  the  9th  of  January  1677,  Traill  engaged 
John  Mitchell  to  quarry  stones  for  the  building  of  the  House  of  Elsness,  and  enters  the 
contract : — "'  I  agredit  wt  John  mechell  to  brak  as  may  stones  as  will  Bowld  my  houss  at 
ellsnes,  and  I  ame  to  geve  hymes  18  lib. ;  geiven  hym  in  hand  12  shelling  in  arnsest.  He  is  to 
entor  his  wark  the  6  of  febuarie  nixt." 

"  The  6  Apryll  1676,  Shiptte  aboard  of  the  good  fortton,  of  Kirkwall,  Pat.  Traill,  mester. 
Item  from  the  leday  sonnd,t  twentie  barall  of  bowtter  and  twall  barall  of  oyll,"  &c. 

Besides  the  "  Good  Fortune,"  which  he  himself  commanded,  he  had  a  half  share  of  the 
sloop  Elizabeth,  under  the  charge  of  John  Dishington. 

Patrick  Traill  was  a  man  of  strong  family  affection.  His  note-book  has  many  references 
to  wife  and  children.  Mrs  Traill  took  advantage  of  her  husband's  foreign  voyages  to  get  some 
of  her  home-spun  cloths  dyed  abroad.  "  17  Apryll  1676,  I  reseivit  from  my  wyf  36  elles  of 
whyt  stouff  to  be  dayed,  and  4  elles  of  whyt  stouff  to  be  dayed  skarlott."  He  never  made  a 
voyage  without  bringing  nice  presents  home  with  him.  **  For  ane  night  gowne  and  3  night 
capess  of  selk,  seven  rix  Dolleres  ;  for  2  par  showes  to  John,  £2  12s  ;  for  2  par  to  barbra,t  15s  ; 
for  1  hatt  to  John,  £1  16s  ;  for  1  pond  tobaka,  8s  ;  for  3  pond  suger,  £1  10s  ;  for  ane  shieft  to 
my  wyf,  £7  ;  for  ane  par  of  gloves  to  my  wyff,  12s  ;  for  ane  par  to  my  doughter,  8s  ;  for  ane 
houd  to  my  wyff,  £4  3s."    "  Remember  to  bring  hom  to  hellen  Stewart  §  2  elles  of  grein  say." 

Like  other  wealthy  men,  he  advanced  money  on  mortgages.  In  1688,  Patrick  Traill  of 
Elsness  obtained  "  decreit  against  Marjorie  Halcro,  relict  of  George  Spence  of  Overscapa,  to 
flitt  therefrom  that  he  may  enter  thereto."  || 

He  was  a  member  of  the  Orkney  Golf  Club,  and  many  a  festive  night  the  old  House  of 
Elsness  witnessed  when  the  jovial  skipper  and  his  guests  returned  from  the  plain  of  Fidge. 

*  Favoured  by  J.  Barnett,  Esq.         t  Margaret  Buxtoun,  widow  of  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound. 
X  Married,  1686,  James  Fea  of  Clestrain.         §  Daughter-in-law.         ||  H.  L. 

S 


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130  KIRKWALL   IX  THE  ORKNEYS. 

He  died,  October  1690,  and  his  tenement  on  the  Ramparts  passed  to  his  second  son, 
David. 

In  1684,  David  Traill  raariied  Catherine  Skene,  widow  of  James  Sinclair  of  Sabay,  and 
became  known  as  Traill  of  Sabay. 

In  169<),  he  cleared  away  his  father's  *Hwa  double  tenements,"  and  built  on^  large  house 
on  their  site.  From  its  size,  or  from  some  peculiarity  of  style,  it  was  regarded  with  disfavour 
by  the  townspeople.  Thomas  Brown  records*  :— "  Monday,  betwixt  11  and  12  of  the  day, 
there  was  a  storm  of  wind  at  the  north  which  beat  in  the  new  built  house  on  the  shore  done 
4it  direction  of  David  Traill,  called  his  Folly,  and  whereof,  with  that  stress,  there  was  almost 
the  whole  north  side  of  that  house  broke  down." 

Having  got  the  Sabay  estate,  Traill  naturally  claimed  the  Sabay  pew  in  the  Cathedral — 
the  St.  Clair's  loft,  "  on  the  right  side  of  the  pulpit " — but  the  claim  was  opposed  by  some  of 
the  numerous  Sinclair  clan,  and  was  refused.  He,  however,  got  the  Dick's  loft,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  choir. 

David  Traill  of  Sabay  was  in  Edinburgh,  in  1714,  with  a  purpose  of  marriage  ;  and  Nicol 
Spence,  agent  for  the  Kirkwall  Presbytery,  certified,  for  the  proclamation  of  the  banns,  that 
he  was  single,  his  wife  having  died  seven  years  previously.  The  second  Mrs  Traill  was  Jean, 
daughter  of  Robert  Bruce  of  Auchinlay,  and  she,  poor  lady,  died  at  sea,  between  Orkney  and 
Leith,  25th  June  1722.  Undeterred  by  two  bereavements,  he  took  to  himself  a  third  wife, 
Barbara,  daughter  of  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness.  Like  all  the  other  Traills,  Sabay  took  an 
active  interest  in  municipal  affairs,  and  was  Provost  of  Kirkwall  from  1712-1718.  We  learn 
incidentally  that  he  enjoyed  his  pipe,  as  he  writes  to  his  "  Cussine,"  William  Traill,  Dean-of- 
Guild,  to  send  him  "  ane  pound  of  good  Tobacco,  and  an  quarter  pound  white  soap." 

David  Traill  died  at  Leith,  1726,  and  a  letter  from  a  friend  of  the  family  records  the  fact 
that  in  sickness  and  in  burial  he  had  been  **  well  seen  to." 

After  David's  death,  the  Sabay  estates  got  into  difficulties.  Peter  Blair,  writer,  Edin- 
burgh, directs  a  letter  to  Patrick  Traill  of  Sabay  requesting  payment  of  £40  stg.,  and  asking 
for  further  instructions.  Traill  replies,  stating  that  his  affairs  are  at  a  crisis,  and  he  un- 
nerved and  distressed. 

In  this  connection,  but  whether  as  cause  or  effect  of  poor  Sabay's  distress,  we  notice  a 
letter  from  Thomas  Mackenzie,  April  1736,  to  James  Traill,  yr.  of  Sabay.  t  Mackenzie  pur- 
posed coming  out  with  his  brother  on  some  business,  but  he  is  "  afraid  their  coming  out  may 
prove  an  April  errand  if  his  (J.  T.'s)  father  be  not  sober." 

In  1767,  John  Baikie  was  appointed,  by  the  Court  of  Session,  factor  on  the  estate  of  Sabay 
for  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards  and  his  lady,  at  whose  instance,  as  creditors,  the  roup  of  the 
estate  was  proclaimed  at  the  Mercat  Cross,  25th  September,  by  James  Spence,  writer.J 

In  the  following  February,  Sabay  was  purchased  by  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas,  who  engaged 
himself  to  allow  Elizabeth  Douglas,  relict  of  Andrew  Young,  an  annuity  of  400  merks. 

In  1769,  Traill's  Folly  was  sold  by  public  roup  in  Edinburgh,  and  was  knocked  down  to 
the  bid  of  Samuel  Mitchelson  for  William  Groat,  merchant,  Kirkwall. 

Nothing  can  better  illustrate  the  advance  in  the  value  of  house  property  in  the  Burgh 
than  the  history  of  this  place.  Groat  paid  £55  for  Sabay's  house ;  his  grandson  sold  it  to 
Thomas  Balfour  of  El  wick  for  £220.  In  1802,  the  property,  "  partly  ruinous  or  waste,  lying  at 
the  shore  of  Kirkwall,  commonly  called  Sabay's  houses,"  was  bought  by  David  Drever,  farmer, 
Newark,  at  the  price  of  £375  ;  and  in  1888,  Drever's  heirs  got  from  Mr  Dunnet,  the  present 
proprietor,  £1550  for  the  site. 

As  has  been  seen,  the  northern  boundary  of  this  tenement  was,  in  1677,  "the  king's  hie 
*  8th  Deo.  1690.        t  H.  L.  papers.        t  H.  L.,  27. 


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THE   RAMPARTS.  131 

Street,  towards  the  pier  and  shore."  This  pier  could  only  have  been  a  boat  landing  ;  the  little 
trading  vessels,  of  which  at  that  time  Kirkwall  possessed  a  considerable  fleet,  could  make  no- 
use  of  it.     From  recorded  lawsuits,  we  learn  something  of  the  handling  of  cargo  in  those  days. 

In  1678,  Edward  Elphingston,  as  factor  for  Patrick  Traill,  merchant,  shipped  on  board 
•*  the  good  shippe  called  the  Howcare,  of  Kirkwall,  Edward  Maxwell,  master,  ane  suflScient 
punchione  or  hogshead  "  of  sack.  It  was  packed  in  sand  in  the  hold,  but  when  it  came  to  be 
hoisted  up  to  be  sent  ashore,  the  sand  round  the  cask  was  found  to  be  wet.  A  hole  had  been 
pierced  in  the  end  of  the  cask  and  had  not  been  properly  plugged.  Mr  Traill  was  on  the 
beach  when  his  wine  w€us  landed,  and  having  been  told  what  had  been  observed  on  board  the 
ship,  he  called  a  cooper  and  summoned  one  of  the  Bailies  and  the  Dean-of-Guild  as  witnesses. 
John  Knight  gauged  the  cask,  and  found  that  it  wanted  eighteen  pints  of  being  full,  whereupon 
proceedings  were  taken  against  Arthur  Baikie,  John  Kaa,  and  others,  owners  of  the  vessel. 

In  their  charter  parties,  the  ancient  mariners  of  Kirkwall  sometimes  got  considerable 
licence  as  to  the  port  of  discharge. 

Alexander  Thomson,  skipper  and  part  owner  of  the  **  Hark  Sampsone,"  chartered  her  for  a 
voyage,  16th  November  1624,  her  destination  being  "the  Port  in  Norrowaye,  wind  and 
weather  serving,  where  the  veasell  can  lie  at  ane  laidberrie."  ♦ 

"  William  M*Kindlay,  Master  and  part  owner  of  the  ship  James,  of  Kirkwall,  freights  the 
said  ship  to  James  Laing,  Mercht.  in  Eday." 

The  "  James "  was  to  lie  in  Calfsound  "  three  work  weather  days  for  receiving  on  board 
her  full  loddening  of  Meall,  Here,  or  other  Victual,  and  therewith  first  conveniency  of  wind 
and  weather  to  sail  to  the  ports  of  Arundall  and  Fleckry  in  Norway,  and  in  each  of  these  porta 
to  ly  6  work  weather  days  for  unloadening  the  outwards  cargo  and  reloadening  with  Oak 
Timber  or  other  merchandise." 

Some  of  Kirkwall's  old  time  ships  had  rather  odd  names.  In  1631,  Francis  Mudie  of 
Melsetter  paid  Thomas  Lindsay  of  Grail  1000  merks  for  the  bark  "  Godsend." 

"  William  Flett,  skipper  of  the  bark  callit  the  flying  heart,"  undertakes  to  bring  from 
Staxigoe,  in  Caithness,  50(K)  slates  for  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  and  to  deliver  them  on 
the  shore  of  Kirkwall  for  40  merks,  March  1634. 

The  '^bark  callit  the  gift  of  God,"  Magnus  Flett,  skipper,  was  chartered  by  John 
Linklater,  merchant,  to  run  a  cargo  to  Leith  from  "  the  Port  of  Papa  Sound  or  Linga,  as  the 
weather  shall  serve,  reserving  to  the  skipper  to  carry  four  bolls  victual  of  his  own,  and  all 
passengers  having  but  their  kists,"  February  1638. 

David  M^Leliand,  who  came  to  Kirkwall  as  **  servitor  to  Mr  John  Dick,"  and  afterwards 
became  proprietor  of  Woodwick,  bought  one-third  of  "  the  bark  callit  the  Lamb  of  God,  for 
176  rix  dollars,  at  58  shillings  Scots  money  the  piece,"  March  1637. 

William  Gordon,  merchant,  Kirkwall,  chartered  "  the  bark  callit  the  blessing,"  Thomaa 
Midhous,  master,  to  load  at  Papa  Sound,  and  go  to  any  port  in  Scotland  or  Norway  that  he 
may  fix,  for  £146  Scots,  20th  January  1638. 

On  the  28th  May  1633,  Harie  Henrysone  chartered  "the  bark  callit  the  James,  of 
Kirkwall,  to  come  to  the  most  convenient  port  of  North  Ronaldsay  and  lie  four  wark 
wethcrly  dayes  for  the  taking  in  of  twentie  chalder  of  beir."  After  that  the  '*  James"  was  to 
go  to  Papa  Sound  to  be  loaded  up  by  Harie's  brother,  and  thus  freighted  to  proceed  to  Bergen 
and  lie  eight  days  to  discharge.  For  this  the  brothers  were  to  pay  £210  Scots  "  within  the 
space  of  fortie  aucht  houres  efter  the  delyverie  of  the  same  loading." 

Quite  a  considerable  list  of  seventeenth  century  shipping  might  be  made  up — the 
"  Robert,"  Cuthbert  Wilson,  skipper  ;  "  Jonas,"  Edward  Pottinger ;  "  Nicolas,"  John  Pottinger  ; 
*  A  loudberrie  is  a  rock,  with  one  side  perpendicular,  forming  a  natural  pier. 


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132  KIKKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

*' Elizabeth,"  Patrick  Traill ;  "  David  of  Sabay,"  Patrick  Traill,  younger.  Besides  these  there 
are  references  to  many  vessels,  the  names  of  which  are  not  given. 

On  the  10th  June  1690,  **  Tuesday  morning,  Patrick  Fea's  ship  was  chased  ashore  at  the 
«ast  side  of  Deerness,  near  to  the  house  of  Skeall  yr,  bi  a  ship  alleged  to  belong  to  the  French 
King,  and  great  skeath  sustained  yrby  to  the  passengers,  especiallie  bi  James  Morisone  and 
others/'* 

Besides  war  risk  and  sea  risk,  there  were  other  dangers  attending  the  southern  voyage. 
Mr  John  Watt,  "practioner  of  physick,"  was  in  1689  prevented  from  going  south  on  account  of 
■** Pirates  at  sea."  This  made  it  necessary  even  for  peaceful  traders  to  carry  arms.  "The 
Three  Brethren,  of  Kirkwall,  lately  built  for  William  Traill,  mercht.,"  was  sold  by  him  to 
Archibald  Stewart  of  Brugh,  f  "  with  her  haill  tows,  anchors,  sails,  masts,  roes,  oars,  float-boat, 
€ompasses,  glasses,  and  other  furniture  and  appurtenances,  with  all  moveables  on  board  the 
«aid  ship  excef)t  two  pieces  of  cannon,"  19th  August  1740.X 

The  pier  opposite  Traill's  Folly,  poor  as  it  was,  served  Kirkwall  till  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  when  a  determined  and  successful  effort  was  made  to  get  proper  wharfage 
accommodation  for  the  local  .shipping.  Subscriptions  were  a.sked,  and  Malcolm  Laing  headed 
the  list  with  £l(X).§  The  guineas  poured  in,  and,  with  over  £1800  in  hand,  the  Trustees  felt 
themselves  entitled  to  proceed  with  the  work. 

The  laying  of  the  foundation  stone,  11th  April  1809,  was  a  function  of  high  Masonic 
ceremonial,  and  Major  West,  who  commanded  a  piirty  of  soldiers  in  Kirkwall,  was  asked  to 
line  the  street.  The  pier  was  finished  in  1811  and  formally  opened,  as  is  shown  by  a  short 
minute  in  the  Masonic  books :— "  Brethren  to  dine  at  brother  Eunson's,  first  walking  in 
procession  to  the  new  erected  pier." 

In  1812  the  first  harbour- master.  Skipper  John  Laughton,  was  appointed  at  a  salary  of 
£25,  and  it  was  agreed  that  the  office  could  be  held  only  by  a  person  of  sea-going  experience. 

The  West  Pier  was  begun  in  1813,  the  money  being  raised  partly  by  feuing  portions  of 
what  were  known  as  Kirkwall  Hill  and  the  East  Hill. 

The  lengthening  of  the  pier,  and  indeed  all  the  harbour  works,  have  been  carried  out 
without  Government  aid.  One  result  of  this  is  a  direct  injustice  on  the  part  of  the  Treasury, 
which,  on  any  appeal  for  a  grant  for  local  purposes,  uses  Kirkwall's  spirit  of  self-help  as  an 
argument  for  tightening  the  purse-strings,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  it  lavishes  money  on 
districts  in  Scotland  and  Ireland  where  the  people  are  too  indolent  to  use  piers  and  boats 
built  for  them  at  the  public  expense. 

The  south  wall  of  the  harbour,  or  the  face  of  the  "Rampart,"  was  built  by  private 
enterprise.  The  older  inhabitants  of  Kirkwall  remember  woodyards  and  buildings  along  the 
sea  front.  On  the  22nd  of  August  1812,  William  Traill,  merchant,  bought  at  public  roup  from 
the  Town  Council  the  frontage  from  the  new  pier  to  the  "  corn  slip,"  with  a  width  of  twenty- 
four  feet,  "  computed  from  a  distance  of  twenty-two  feet  on  an  average  from  the  front  of  the 
buildings  "—the  houses  of  Harbour  Street.  "The  said  William  Traill  is  Bound  and  Obliged 
to  have  substantial  outside  walls  built  and  raised  next  to  the  said  Harbour,  equal  in  height  to 
the  top  of  the  New  Pier,  against  the  term  of  Lammas  next  to  come  in  the  year  1813." 

♦  T.  B.  t  S.  R.  t  Sheriff  Court  Books. 

§  For  a  full  list  of  subscribers  see  Mackintosh  "  Glimpses,"  p.  319. 


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CHAPTER  X. 

Bridge  Street, 

/HAT  part  of  the  main  thoroughfare  of  Kirkwall  dow  known  as  Bridge  Street  was,  with 
*-    the  Shore,  the  oldest  part  of  the  town. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  street,  the  tenements  were  bounded  by  the  Sands  and 
Oyce.  Counting  southward  from  "  Traill's  Folly,"  at  the  comer,  the  neighbours  were,  in  1677, 
Craigie  of  Oversanday,  Halcro  of  Crook,  Mowat  of  Pow,  Pottinger  of  Hobbister,  Covingtrie 
of  Newark,  "  the  airis  of  John  Baikie,  skipper,"  and  Craigie  of  Qairsay. 

In  1698,  Oversanday  having  removed  to  Broad  Street,  the  Rev.  George  Spence,  on  his 
retirement  or  dismissal  from  the  united  parishes  of  Birsay  and  Harray,  took  Craigie's  house  in 
Bridge  Street.  He  was  a  son  of  George  Spence  of  Overscapa,  and  in  the  troubles  that  followed 
upon  the  disestablishment  of  Episcopacy,  he  became  somewhat  conspicuous. 

He  was  ordained  in  1682.  *'  Mr  George  Spence,  Student  in  Divinitie,  was  admitted  to 
the  function  of  the  ministry  by  Murdoch,  Bi^op  of  Orkney,  with  the  Reverend  brethrene  of 
the  Presbitrie  thereof,  for  the  united  kirks  of  Firth  and  Stanehouse."  * 

^  He  deserted  the  charge,  and  transported  himself  to  Birsay,  for  a  better  stipend,  about 
1692  " ;  "  and  entered  (Intnider),  10th  July.  On  being  declared  an  intruder  by  the  Committee 
of  Visitation,  and  accused  of  immorality,  neglect  of  ministerial  duty,  and  x>artiality  in  disci- 
pline, he  demitted,  14th  June  1698,  and  lived  privately  till  the  Rebellion  in  1716,  when  he 
proclaimed  the  Pretender  ;  for  doing  this,  and  on  other  accusations,  he  was  deposed,  11th 
Jan.  1717."  t 

He  was  a  man  of  violent  temper,  and  had  to  appear  before  the  Presbytery  charged  with 
a  very  aggravated  assault  on  John  Nisbet,  merchant,  Birsay,  an  old  man  and  a  kind  friend. 

Though  deposed,  Mr  Spence  helped  to  keep  the  fragments  of  the  Episcopal  congregation 
in  Kirkwall  together  till  his  death  in  1720. 

During  the  latter  part  of  his  life,  his  own  means  had  become  exhausted,  and  he  drew  upon  a 
fund  provided  by  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church  to  meet  such  cases.  His  wife,  a  daughter  of 
George  Ritchie,  Chamberlain  of  Orkney,  got  £20  for  her  husband's  funeral,  and  his  annuity 
was  continued  to  her.  % 

Spence's  neighbour  southward,  William  Halcro  of  Crook,  was  a  "son  of  Harie  Halcro  of 
Aikers.    He  bought  Crook,  in  Rendall,  from  William  Craigie  of  Gairsay,  1676."  § 

When  Mr  Spence  was  tried  for  rebellious  practices,  Halcro  was  one  of  the  witnesses. 

An  arch  still  spans  the  entrance  to  the  close  which  formed  the  passage  to  these  two 
houses.  In  former  times  such  arches  were  very  common  in  Kirkwall,  but  they  have,  one  by 
one,  been  removed,  till  now  very  few  remain. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  Halcro's  house  was  the  Ship  Inn,  kept  by 
William  Scollay.     Here  Sir  Waltei:  Scott  dined  on  the  12th  of  August  1814. 

♦  T.  B.,  7th  June  1682.        t  Fasti.        %  Craven.        §  H.  L. 


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134  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  party,  which  had  come  in  the  Lighthouse  yacht,  consisted  of  Robert  Hamilton,  Sheriff 
of  Lanarkshire ;  William  Erskine,  Sheriff  of  Orkney  and  Zetland ;  Adam  Duff,  Sheriff  of 
Forfarshire,  Commissioners  of  Northern  Lights.  Of  "  non-Commissioners,"  besides  Scott,  were 
Mr  David  Marjoribanks,  son  of  the  Provost  of  Edinburgh  ;  and  the  Rev.  Mr  Tumbull, 
minister  of  Tingwall.  **But  the  official  chief  of  the  expedition  is  Mr  Stevenson,  the 
Surveyor— Viceroy  over  the  Commissioners — a  most  gentleman-like  and  modest  man,  and 
well  known  by  his  scientific  skill."  * 

On  the  day  above  indicated,  the  four  lawyers  called  on  Mr  Malcolm  Laing  at  Pabdale, 
and  afterwards  visited  the  Castle,  the  Bishop's  Palace,  the  EarFs  Palace,  and  the  Cathedral, 
"  which  greeted  the  Sheriff's  approach  with  a  merry  peal." 

After  all  this,  "  we  dine  at  the  inn  and  drink  the  Prince  Regent's  health,  being  that  of  the 
day  ;  Mr  Baikie  of  Tankerness  dines  with  us." 

It  is  still  believed  in  Orkney  that  Scott  was  disappointed  because  he  received  little  or  no 
attention  from  the  Orcadians.  From  his  journal  it  would  appear  that  the  only  hospitality 
iextended  to  him  was  at  Clestrain,  in  Orphir,  by  Mr  Rae,  Lord  Armidale's  factor.  In  Shetland, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  party  from  the  yacht  had  been  honoured  guests  in  many  houses.  8th 
August,  "  We  go  to  pay  our  farewell  visits  of  thanks  to  the  hospitable  Lerwegians  and  at  the 
Fort."  Besides  enjoying  the  pleasure  of  private  dinner  parties,  the  visitors  had  a  public 
banquet  given  them,  to  which  Sir  Walter  looks  forward  with  evident  zest.  "  We  are  now 
going  to  dress  for  dinner  with  the  Notables  of  Lerwick,  who  give  us  an  entertainment  in  their 
Town-hall.  Oho."  "Are  hospitably  received  and  entertained  by  the  Lerwick  gentlemen. 
They  are  a  quick,  intelligent  race." 

In  Kirkwall,  on  the  other  hand,  there  was  no  private  hospitality,  no  Town-hall  banquet, 
and  the  only  entertainment  of  which  a  record  is  left  was  given  in  Scollay's  Inn  at  the  visitors' 
expense.  It  is  almost  reasonable  to  infer  that  Scollay's  cuisine  was  too  much  for  the  Wizard's 
digestion,  for  on  the  very  next  day,  in  a  rhyming  epistle  to  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch,  he  gives 
his  well-known  ludicrous  description  of  the  town  : — 

"  We  have  now  got  to  Kirkwall,  and  needs  I  must  stare, 
When  I  think  that  in  verse  I  have  once  called  it  fair  ; 
Tis  a  base  little  borough,  both  dirtv  and  mean- 
There  is  nothing  to  hear,  and  there's  nought  to  be  seen, 
Save  a  church  where,  of  old  times,  a  prelate  harangued, 
And  a  palace  that's  built  by  an  earl  who  was  hanged." 

But  Erskine  was  busy  that  day— trouble  with  his  substitute,  Mr  Maconnochie  ;  Hamilton  was 
gouty ;  Scott  was  solitary  ;  and  these  little  things  undoubtedly  affected  the  tone  of  the 
epistle. 

If  Kirkwall  was  bad,  Strom ness  was  worse ;  Scott  could  find  no  beauty  even  in  the 
picturesque  situation  of  the  capital  of  the  West  Mainland.  ''Stroraness  is  a  little,  dirty, 
straggling  town,  which  cannot  be  traversed  by  a  cart  or  even  by  a  horse,  for  there  are  stairs 
up  and  down,  even  in  the  principal  streets.  We  paraded  its  whole  length,  like  turkeys,  in  a 
string,  I  suppose  to  satisfy  ourselves  that  there  was  a  worse  town  than  the  metropolis,  Kirk- 
wall." 

The  yacht  party  stayed  ashore  the  night  of  the  12th,  and  next  day  young  Marjoribanks 
went  shooting  on  Wideford  Hill.  The  bag  was  a  good  one,  though  the  visitor's  share  is  not 
recorded.  "  Marchie  goes  to  shoot  on  a  hill  called  Whiteford,  which  slopes  away  about  two  or 
three  miles  from  Kirkwall.  The  grouse  is  abundant,  for  the  gentleman  who  chaperons 
Marchie  killed  thirteen  brace  and  a-half,  with  a  snipe." 

*  Scott's  Diary. 


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BRIDGE  STREET.  135 

''  I  have  little  to  add,  except  that  the  Orkney  people  have  some  odd  superstitions  about  a 
stone  on  which  they  take  oaths  to  Odin.  Lovers  often  perform  this  ceremony  in  pledge  of 
mutual  faith,  and  are  said  to  account  it  a  sacred  engagement.  It  is  agreed  that  we  go  on 
board  after  dinner,  and  sail  with  the  next  tide.*  The  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  present  us 
with  the  freedom  of  their  ancient  burgh."  With  regard  to  this  presentation,  and  the  reception 
generally  of  Mr  Scott,  it  must  be  remembered  that  as  yet  he  was  not  known  as  the  author  of 
the  Waver  ley  Novels. 

South  of  the  Ship  Inn  is  the  house  which  of  old  belonged  to  Patrick  Mowat  of  Pow. 

Mowat  of  Pow's  neighbour  on  the  south  was  Robert  Pottinger  of  Hobbister,  one  of  the 
bailies  of  Kirkwall.  His  house  is  described  as  ^' under  sclaitt  roofe  except  the  kitchie." 
Hobbister  had  as  a  tenant  Qeorge  Hardie,  chirurgeon.  Little  is  known  of  this  surgeon,  and 
that  little  is  shady.  Provost  Arthur  Baikie  had  his  eye  upon  him  on  account  of  a  queer 
lawsuit  in  which  he  had  contrived  to  involve,  along  with  himself,  Margaret  Buxtoun,  Lady 
Sound,  widow  of  Arthur  Buchanan. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  Bailie  Pottinger's  house  belonged  to  Captain 
Henry  Leask,  who  was  married  to  a  daughter  of  Alexander  Logie,  merchant. 

*'  Henry  Leask,  Shipmaster,"  London,  thereafter  residing  in  Kirkwall  and  thereafter  in 
Portobello,  ''with  consent  of  Isabella  Logie,  his  spouse,"  disponed  this  house  to  the  Rev. 
William  Logie.  And  by  and  by  it  proved  a  welcome  refuge  when  the  reverend  gentleman 
fled,  with  his  family,  from  a  burning  manse. 

In  the  old  valuation  roll  the  next  house  southward  belonged  to  David  Covingtrie, 
merchant,  w^ho,  with  his  stepmother,  Helen  Kircaldie,  occupied  part  of  it,  while  part  was  let 
to  James  Murray  of  Pennylands,  Commissary  or  Sheriff  of  the  Bishopric.  "The  earlier 
Coviugtries  belong  to  a  time  of  which  we  can  get  very  little  accurate  history.  William 
Covingtrie  settled  in  Orkney  in  1613,  and  married  Jane  Taylour."t 

Covingtrie  introduced  what  must  at  that  time  have  been  a  new  business  in  Kirkwall 
•*  William  Covingtrie,  baxter,"  witnesses  a  deed,  1st  December  1616.  Baikie  of  Tankerness 
was  evidently  interested  in  the  new  speculation,  and  about  this  time  Tankerness  Lane  is 
sometimes  referred  to  as  the  **  Baxter's  Close." 

In  its  beginning  the  baking  business  was  not  a  financial  success,  and  William  Covingtrie 
frequently  appears  in  the  Court  books  as  a  borrower. 

His  eldest  son,  John,  however,  brought  up  in  Baikie's  warehouse,  laid  the  foundation  of 
the  family  fortune.  "  John  Covingtrie,  Servitor  to  James  Baikie,  Mercht.,"  witnesses  a  deed 
at  North  Strynzie,  registered  1st  June  1631,  the  other  witness  being  Wm.  Cargill,  "Master  of 
the  graraer  scoole  of  Kirkwaa."  But  still  the  baking  business  went  on,  for,  24th  May  1663, 
Edward  Sanders,  baker,  married  Catherine  Covingtrie. 

John  Covingtrie  married  Jane  Kirkness,  and  had  an  only  son,  David,  afterwards  of 
Enhallow.  John  married  again  Helen  Kircaldie,  who  survived  him  and  died  in  her  stepson's 
house.!    David  Covingtrie  of  Enhallow  was  Chamberlain  to  Murdoch,  Bishop  of  Orkney. 

His  son,  John  Covingtrie  of  Newark,  was  Provost  of  Kirkwall  from  1718  to  1730.  By 
way  of  enlarging  his  property  in  the  town,  he  got  an  Act,§  July  1724,  from  the  Dean-of-Guild, 
allowing  him  to  extend  his  back  yard  into  the  Oyce  as  far  as  he  thought  fit,  and  to  make  it 
the  same  width  at  the  west  as  at  the  east.  He  also  got  permission  to  take  some  rubbish, 
which  obstructed  the  passage  to  the  Long-gutter,  to  help  to  fill  up  his  yard.  On  the  18th 
April  1730,  he  reported  that  he  had  extended  his  yard  and  built  his  dyke,  and  that  he 
had  got  permission  from  the  Dean-of-Guild  to  put  "  a  large  door  upon  the  south  dyke  of  said 

•  This  was  on  the  13th.        t  Burke's  History  of  the  Commons.        J  T.  B.,  7th  June  1681. 
§  Date  of  Act,  9th  June  ;  registered  25th  July  1724. 


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136  KIRKWALL   IN  THE"  ORKNEYS. 

yeard  for  the  convenience  of  taking  in  horses  with  loads  of  peats  and  other  carriages/*  In 
making  this  extension  he  was  opposed  by  William  Liddell  of  Hammer,  whose  property  lay  on 
the  other  side  of  "  the  running  bum  called  the  Hempow."  LiddeU's  interference  was  resented 
by  the  Dean-of -Guild,  Wm.  Traill,  who  brought  a  complaint  before  the  Council.  The  Dean's 
action  was  sustained ;  the  Council  ^*  doe  not  only  homologate  and  approve  of  the  said  Act  sua 
past  by  him,  in  the  haill  heads,  articles,  and  clauses  thereof,  but  also  promise  and  agree  to 
redress  the  said  affronte  and  indignity  done  to  the  said  dean  of  Guild  and  their  authority." 

On  the  30th  August  1727,' the  Magistrates  and  Council  signed  a  Commission  appointing 
Covingtrie  to  go  to  Tain  to  elect  a  member  of  Parliament  for  the  Northern  Burghs.  "  The 
Provost  is  not  to  Charge  the  Council  with  anything  for  his  pains  and  Trouble  as  their 
Delegate,  but  is  to  do  the  same  and  goe  to  Tain  upon  his  own  charges.  They  appoynt  Donald 
Groat,  one  of  the  Councillors,  to  goe  alongest  with  and  attend  the  Provost,  for  which  they  are 
to  Gratify  him  for  his  pains  and  Trouble  upon  his  return."  Colonel  Robert  Monro*  of  Foulis 
was  elected,  and  the  Kirkwall  delegates  returned,  the  Provost  bringing  with  him  a  bill  drawn 
by  him  and  accepted  by  the  new  member,  "  payable  to  the  said  John  Covingtrie  at  the  terme 
of  Whitsunday  next  following  the  date  t  of  the  said  Bill,  within  his  own  dwelling-house  in 
Kirkwall,  for  the  sum  of  Three  Hundred  and  fifty  Pounds  Sterling,  with  ane  note  subjoyned 
to  the  foot  of  the  said  bill,  subscrived  by  the  said  John  Covingtrie,  of  the  tenor  following  : — 
Kirkwall,  23rd  Septr.  1727.  The  above  accepted  Bill  of  3^£  Str.,  altho  payable  to  me,  is  for 
the  use  and  behoof  of  the  Burgh  of  KirkwaU  and  common  good  thereof."  This  was  signed  by 
John  Covingtrie,  and  as  witnesses  by  James  Traill,  Patrick  Traill,  George  Traill,  Wm.  Traill, 


Wm.  Liddell,  Wm.  Traill,  And.  Young.  There  was  thus  no  intention  to  appropriate  the 
money.  This  was  duly  paid  to  Covingtrie,  who  remained  indebted  to  the  town  for  several 
years  till  principal  and  interest  amounted  to  £430  5s  lOd.  % 

It  was  in  the  civic  reign  of  John  Covingtrie — Provost  Torfe  of  the  "  Pirate  "—that  Gow 
came  to  Orkney  and  plundered  the  Hall  of  Clestrain,  and  the  Novelist  gives  our  Chief 
Magistrate,  possibly  by  accident,  a  character  for  prompt  and  fearless  action  which  he  well 
deserved. 

John  Covingtrie  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  David,  who  did  not  add  to  the  wealth  of  the 
family.    In  November  1760,  inhibition,  at  the  instance  of  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas  of  Kerse, 
was  served  on  David  Covingtrie  that  he  should  not  disp4-)ne 
or  wadset  any  of  his  property  in  consequence  of  his  debt 
£1415  13s  2d  Scots  due  to  Sir  Lawrence. 

About  this  time  he  did  dispone  to  Thomas  Traill  of  Frotoft 
the  yard  which  his  father  had  reclaimed  from  the  Peerie  Sea,  "having  the  Sands  or  Oyce 


)ne  /""V-v 

nft  ^  C 


•  Colonel  Monro  was  killed  at  Falkirk,  17th  January  1746,  and  his  body  was  brought  to  Novar 
for  burial.  The  tombstone  was  supplied  from  the  grounds  of  a  neighbouring  laird  on  the  opposite 
side  in  politics.  This  gentleman,  on  being  twitted  by  a  friend  for  his  inconsistency  in  erecting  a 
monument  to  his  political  opponent,  replied  that  he  would  be  glad  to  lay  tombstones  over  Novar  and 
all  of  his  way  of  thinking. 

t  7th  September  1727.        %  For  a  history  of  this  transaction,  see  Mackintosh's  "Glimpses." 


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BRIDGE  STREET.  137 

north  and  west,  and  the  passage  or  footpath  between  my  gardens  and  the  said  yard  on  the 
east." 

David  Covingtrie  of  Newark  was  succeeded  by  his  brother,  Thomas,  minister  of  Cross 
and  Borness,  the  last  of  the  Orkney  Oovingtries.  The  minister's  daughter,  Elizabeth,  married 
John  Balfour  of  Trenabie,  and  their  son,  John,  came  into  possession,  May  1797.  In  June  of 
the  same  year  the  Ck)yingtrie  mansion  in  Bridge  Street  was  purchased  by  Alexander  Logie^ 
merchant. 

In  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries,  houses  of  any  importance  in  Kirkwall  had 
their  kitchens  built  among  the  office  houses  at  the  back  ;  and  while  much  of  the  property 
under  consideration  has  been  rebuilt,  the  old  Provost's  kitchen,  with  its  capacious  fireplace^ 
suggestive  of  lavish  hospitality,  still  remains. 

IiQgie,  the  new  proprietor,  entered  into  partnership  with  James  Spence,  and  the  Logie- 
Spence  firm,  as  general  merchants,  became  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  town. 

About  this  time  Mr  Logie  also  acquired  the  tenement  to  the  south  of  Covingtrie's  land^ 
which  in  1677  had  belonged  to  "  ye  airis  of  John  Baikie,  skipper." 

Alexander  Logie  died  in  1817,  but  the  business  was  retained  by  the  junior  partner,  who 
in  1826  purchased  Skipper  Baikie's  house  from  Logie's  heirs  and  added  it  to  his  premises.. 
The  necessity  for  this  extension  lay  in  the  fact  that  Spence,  finding  his  capital  accumulating, 
had  begun  to  advance  money  on  interest.  The  old  Covingtrie  dwelling  continued  to  be  the 
shop,  and  the  house  of  "  ye  airis  of  John  Baikie "  was  the  bank.  The  bank  was  a  success^ 
but  it  had  to  be  prudently  conducted.  On  one  occasion  Mr  Spence  advanced  to  a  gentleman 
in  town  the  sum  of  £1000  sterling,  but  when  the  same  gentleman  returned  for  a  further  loan 
of  £5000,  though  the  security  was  good,  the  amount  was  large,  and  Spence  placed  his  client  in 
the  hands  of  the  Manager  of  the  Commercial  Bank  of  Scotland.  Then  Mr  Spence  was. 
appointed  agent  in  Kirkwall  for  that  bank,  1826.  He  died  at  Eastbank,  April  1864,  aged 
seventy-eight  years.    His  son  and  grandson,  both  Jameses,  successively  held  the  agency. 

The  southern  boundary  of  the  bank  is  given  in  1826  as  "the  close  and  house  which 
formerly  pertained  to  David  Craigie  of  Gairsay,  and  which  was  afterwards  rebuilt  by  William 
Faterson,  Surgeon,  or  by  Alexander  Paterson,  Banker  in  Thurso,  and  which  now  belong  to 
William  Watt  Bain." 

Craigie's  4u)use,  .'with  its  yacd,^  extended  south  to  the:  Bridge.  "William  Craigje  of 
Gairsay  hath  ane  double  tenement  qrof  ye  north  side  of  the  close  is  ruinous,  and  sua  much  as 
is  built  under  sclaitt  roofe,  p'ntlie  possest  be  Captaine  Peter  Winchester,  is  worth  in  yeirlie 
rent  fourtie  pound." 

When  this  house  was  entire  it  must  have  been  one  of  the  finest  in  Kirkwall,  seeing  that  a 
time-worn  half  of  it  was  let  at  a  rent  of  forty  pounds  per  annum. 

The  first  of  the  Craigies  appearing  in  the  Court  books  is  Magnus  Craigie,  merchant, 
Kirkwall,  who  married  Elizabeth  Paplay.  The  old  merchant  had  evidently  a  lucrative 
business,  and  having  made  money,  he  knew  how  to  use  it.  In  1616  he  lent  Captain  Thomas 
Knightson  £1400,  and  this  would  go  to  show  that  his  son  had  a  good  start  in  life.  William, 
following  in  his  father's  footsteps,  increased  his  patrimony  by  money  lending.  In  1622  he 
bought  Pabdale,  to  which,  two  years  later,  he  brought  home  his  wife,  Margaret,  daughter  of 
Hew  Halcro  of  that  ilk,  with  a  tocher  of  2000  merks.  Among  the  witnesses  of  the  marriage 
contract  was  Thomas  Traill,  "  son  lawful  to  George  Traill  of  Wasnes." 

In  1640  he  bought  Gairsay,  and  was  dead  before  1652,  when  his  son,  Hugh,  then  of 
Gairsay,  along  with  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound,  was  returned  as  Member  of  Cromwell's 
Scottish  Parliament. 

This  Parliament,  which  anticipated  by  more  than  half  a  century  Queen  Anne's  Act  of 

T 


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138  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

Union,  is  quite  ignored  by  that  zealous  Royalist,  Peterkin,  who  says  : — "  The  election  of  1617 
was  the  first  which  took  place  in  Orkney,  and  there  is  no  evidence  on  record,  as  far  as  yet 
discovered,  that  there  was  another  during  the  troubled  times  which  followed  in  the  reign  of 
Charles  I.,  until  the  Kestoration  in  1660." 

Craigie  and  Buphanan  were  detained  by  bad  weather,  and  were  unable  to  hear  the  debate 
on  the  Union  question.  They  only  reached  Edinburgh  the  day  after  the  vote  had  been  taken, 
but  their  names  were  added  to  the  list  of  those  who  held  that  the  Scottish  and  English 
Parliaments  should  be  united.  *'  The  which  Union  was  subscribed  by  the  Deputies  of  Orkney 
and  Zetland,  who,  by  storm  at  sea,  came  not  to  Edinburgh  till  a  day  after  the  election."  * 

Having  represented  Kirkwall  under  the  Commonwealth,  Hugh  Craigie  was  returned 
■Commissioner  to  Charles  the  Second's  first  Scottish  Parliament,  3rd  December  1660. 

An  election  in  those  days  was  not  the  expensive  and  troublesome  business  that  it  is  in 
these.  Twenty-nine  of  the  "  Barons,"  one  a  deputy  from  Shetland,  met  in  Kirkwall.  "  The 
which  day,  George  Smith  of  Eapness  wes  chosen  preses,  and  five  of  their  number  being 
present  upon  the  lite,  Hugh  Craigie  of  Gairsay  was  chosen  Commissioner  for  His  Majesty's 
Parliament. 

**  It  was  ordained  by  the  unanimous  vote  of  the  table,  after  report  made  by  the  committee 
of  their  number  appointed  for  ye  effect  underwritten,  that  their  Commissioner,  Hugh  Craigie  of 
Gairsay,  shall  have  allowed  to  him,  for  his  charges  and  expenses  in  prosecuting  his  commission, 
ilk  day,  ten  shillings  sterling,  corapting  from  the  day  of  his  transport  over  Penthland  frith 
untill  the  day  of  his  return  over  ye  said  ffrith.  As  also  for  ye  better  enabling  him  to  render 
himself  in  a  condition  suitable  to  other  members  of  Parliament  of  his  rank,  there  is  hereby  ten 
pounds  sterling  allowed  him  for  helping  to  defray  ye  expenses  of  his  apparell  requisite  for  that 
effect ;  and  yt  by  and  attoure  oyr  contingent  charges  which  our  said  Commissioner  shall  be 
put  to  after  compt  given  in  to  us  by  him.    (Sic  subset,)  Geo.  Smith,  Preses." 

That  a  Member  should  have  from  his  constituency  an  allowance  for  dress  seems  at  first 
sight  somewhat  peculiar,  but  in  the  old  Scottish  Parliament  a  Commissioner  could  not  appear 
in  ordinary  attire.  Lords,  Commons,  and  Clergy  sat  in  one  hall,  and  consequently  required 
distinguishing  robes. 

As  early  ns  1455,  in  the  reign  of  James  II.,  an  Act  was  passed  concerning  "  The  manner  of 

arrayments  for  the  Parliament"  : — 

**  Item.  As  touching  the  habites  of  the  Earles,  Lordesof  Parliament,  Commissioners  of  Burrowea, 
and  Ailvocates  sail  have  and  use  at  all  Parliamentis  and  (General  Council-times  :  it  is  statute  and 
ordained,  that  all  Earles  sail  use  mantilles  of  browne  grained,  open  before,  furred  with  quhite  lyninSy 
and  lyned  before,  ontwith  ane  hande  breadth  to  the  belt  stude,  with  the  samin  furring,  with  little 
hudes  of  the  samin  claith,  and  to  be  used  upon  their  shoulders.  And  the  other  Lonles  of  Parliament 
to  have  ane  mantil  of  reide  richt-swa  opened  before  and  lyned  with  silke  or  furred  with  cristie,  gray, 
griece,  or  pnrray,  togidder  with  ane  hude  of  the  samin  claith,  (urred  as  said  is.  And  all  Commis- 
sioners of  Burrowes,  ilk  ane,  to  have  ane  pair  of  Clokes  of  blew,  furred  fute  side,  open  on  the  richt 
shoulder,  furred  as  effeires,  and  with  ane  nude  of  the  samin,  as  said  is.  And  quhat  Erie,  Loixl  of 
Parliament,  Commissioner  of  Burrowes,  that  enters  in  Parliament  or  General  Councel,  but  the  said 
habite  furred,  sail  fortli-wilh  pay  th«re-after  ten  pound  to  the  King,  un- forgiven. " 

In  1659,  Hugh  Craigie  bought  the  island  of  Wyre  from  David  M'Lellan  of  Woodwick. 

William  Craigie,  who  succeeded,  maintained  his  father's  dignity  and  followed  up  his  use- 
fulness, both  in  the  municipal  and  in  the  national  councils.  He  was  twice  returned  to 
Parliament,  1681  and  1689.  He  farmed  the  bishopric  rents.  "Sabbath,  William  Craigie  of 
Gairsay  arrived  at  Kirkwall  from  his  journey  from  Edinburgh,  who  had  been  there  from  the 
middle  of  Oct.  last  past,  who  has  a  commission  for  being  Stew^art  principal  and  tacksman  of 

*  Scottish  Acts,  vol.  vi. ,  part  2,  p.  794. 


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BRIDGE  STREKT.  ISO" 

this  county,  and  also  the  excise  and  customs  of  ye  same,  for  five  yciris  space,  the  sd.  yeir  being, 
the  first/'* 

In  1690,  he  received  the  honour  of  knighthood.  Craigie  wtvs  thrice  married.  His  first 
wife,  Margaret  Honyman,  died  while  her  husband  was  in  Edinburgh  attending  Parliament. 
On  the  18th  of  March  1689,  as  a  preparation  for  going  south,  Gairsay  made  a  settlement  of  his 
affairs.  His  eldest  son,  William,  inherita  the  estate  ;  David  has  3<X)()  merks  ;  Andrew,  2000  ; 
Hugh,  1500  ;  Henry,  1500 ;  Margaret,  4000  ;  Eupham,  2000— in  all,  14,000  merks  ;  the  interest 
meanwhile  to  be  paid  to  Margaret  Honyman,  spouse,  for  their  education  and  upbringing* 
Lady  Gairsay's  own  tocher  was  7000  merks.  She  died,  3rd  May  1689  ;  and  on  Ist  Feb.  1690,t 
"William  Craigie  of  Gairsay  was  married  to  Anna  Grahame,  relict  of  John  Buchanan  of 
Sandsyde,  at  the  kirk  of  St.  Andrews,  and  the  brydal  bolden  at  the  said  house,  and  in  respect 
that  it  is  observed  bi  traditions,  no  persones  that  is  married  in  the  kirk  of  Deerness  hath  any 
good  success  or  thriving,  and  therefore  they  went  and  was  married  in  the  sd.  kirk  of  St. 
Andrews  by  Mr  John  Shilpes,  minister  at  the  said  united  kirks." 

The  tradition  was  that  couples  married  in  the  Deerness  kirk  were  never  blessed  with 
progeny ;  but  the  probable  reason  why  Anna  Graham  chose  to  go  to  St.  Andrews  was  that 
only  three  months  had  elapsed  since  she  had  deposited  the  mortal  remains  of  her  late  husband 
under  the  floor  of  the  kirk  of  Deerness. 

Anna  Graham  died,  21st  April  1692  ;  and  on  the  8th  of  September,  the  same  year,  Thomas 
Brown  records  that  "Gairsay,  with  his  Lady,  Margt.  Hamilton,  came  to  Kirkwall  upon 
Thursday." 

Here,  strangely  enough,  Brown  is  wrong  in  the  name.  She  was  Anne  Hamilton,  daughter 
of  Sir  Robert  Hamilton  of  Silvertonhill  and  his  wife,  the  Hon.  Anne  Hamilton. J 

On  12th  June  1699,  in  the  absence  of  her  husband,  she  grants  a  receipt  to  the  Town 
Treasurer  for  payment  of  the  price  of  meal  purchased  from  the  Girnell-house.  It  begins  :  — 
"  I  dam  Anna  Hamilton,  Lady  Gairsay,  grants  me  to  have  receaved,  in  name  of  Sir  William 
Craigie  of  Gairsay,  my  husband,  and  as  having  commission  from  him,  from  James  Kaa,  one  of 
the  baillies  of  Kirkwall,  in  name  of  the  Magistrates,  Minister,  and  Counsell  of  Kirkwall,  The 
sowme  of  Ane  hundreth  nyntie  nyne  pounds  fyveteen  shilling  Scots,"  etc.  And  it  is  boldly 
and  beautifully  signed,  "  A.  Hamilton." 

Whether  Gairsay  was  unfortunate  in  business  speculations  does  not  appear,  but  in 
January  1703  he  found  himself  in  prison  on  letters  of  caption  procured  against  him  before  the 
Lords  of  Council  and  Session  by  Sir  Archibald  Stewart  of  Burray.  The  amount  of  his 
obligation  was  "nine  hundred  eightie-one  pounds  threttein  shills.  elleven  penneyes  Scotts 
money." 

Stewart  had  Craigie  arrested  in  Kirkwall ;  and  about  this  arrest  the  Laird  of  Burray 
complains  that,  though  he  had  "  dely  vered  him  as  prisoner  to  William  Fea,  ane  of  the  puts. 
Baillies  of  this  Burgh,  Nevertheless,  by  Collusion  betwixt  the  sd.  Gairsey  and  William  Fea, 
the  sd.  William  Fea  let  the  sd.  Gairsey  slip  away  and  goe  home  to  his  owen  house." 

Whatever  caused  this  trouble,  it  did  not  affect  Sir  William  Craigie's  character,  for  he  waa 
ap]x>inted  to  go  with  Mr  Baikie,  minister,  to  the  General  Assembly  in  March  1704 — the  first 
elder  of  Assembly  sent  from  Kirkwall. 

The  Craigies,  living  as  they  did  in  Pabdale,  or  Gairsay,  or  Broad  Street,  allowed  the 
Bridge  Street  house  to  go  to  ruin,  and  in  1733  David  Craigie  of  Gairsay  "Sett  in  Tack,"  to 
William  Liddell  of  Hammer,  "  Fifty  foot  in  length  of  ground,  on  the  end  of  the  said  David 
Craigie  his  yeard  in  Kirkwall."    The  Council  grant  liberty  to  enclose  this  ground,  "  the  samen 

*  T.  B.,  14th  April  1686.  t  T.  B.  $  Foster^s  M.P.'s  for  Scotland. 


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140 


KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


being  first  sighted  by  the  Magestrates,  the  samen  not  to  be  don  any  ways  prejudicial!  to  the 
watter  race  from  the  Bridge  of  the  Burgh  to  the  oyce." 

Liddell  of  Hammer  was  now  Dean-of-Quild,  and  was  able  to  secure  for  himself  such  an 
extension  as  he  had  opposed  when  the  applicant  was  John  Covingtrie  of  Newark.  Straining 
his  Act  to  its  limit,  he  built  close  up  to  Covingtrie's  yard,  blocking  his  south  door. 

These  old  encroachments  on  the  P^rie  Sea  are  the  buildings  separated  Irom  the*  walls  of 
the  gardens  of  the  Bridge  Street  houses  by  the  footpath  leading  from  the  Lane  of  Mounthoolie 
down  to  the  West  Pier. 


;-^  - ^ ^^S. y3^    ..^^'^t.  fr^-^.  .^. 


Houses  on  South  of  Craigie's  Close,  demolished  1882. 

Sir  William  Craigie's  tenant,  Captain  Peter  Winchester,  was  probably  the  son  of  Peter 
Winchester  wbo,  in  1638,  was  Collector  of  Excise  in  Kirkwall. 

The  name  comes  from  the  southern  shore  of  the  Moray  Firth,  where  it  has  been  well 
established  for  four  centuries  and  a  half.  John  Winchester,  an  Englishman,  came  to  Scotland 
in  the  train  of  James  I.,  and  was  Bishop  of  Moray  from  1438  to  1453.*  The  Bishop's  sons  or 
nephews  established  themselves  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Elgin. 

When  Peter  Winchester  came  to  Orkney  a  young  man,  he  had  some  odd  experiences.  A 
laughing  fiend,  under  cover  of  friendly  guidance,  told  him  that  when  he  accepted  hospitality 
from  an  Orcadian  he  must  eat  all  that  was  offered  him  or  be  prepared  to  fight  his  host,  who 
would  take  any  refusal  of  food  or  drink  as  an  insult.  Under  this  belief  he  one  day  found  his 
feet  under  the  mahogany  of  a  kindly  Stromness  family,  and  continued  eating  on  and  on  as  he 

*  Shaw,  History  of  Moray. 


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BRIDGE  STREET. 


141 


was  asked.  His  entertainers,  no  doubt  very  much  surprised  at  his  voracity,  kept  plying  him 
with  viands  till  at  last,  on  a  fresh  helping  being  offered  him,  he  alarmed  the  household  with 
an  angry  shout — "  O,  damn  it,  no  more  ;  I  must  fight  him." 

Captain  Winchester  was  a  devout  churchman,  and  had  a  seat  **  under  the  stair  leading  to 
Capt.  Dick's  loft."  In  1669,  on  returning  from  a  long  voyage,  he  was  brought  before  the 
Session  under  somewhat  peculiar  circumstances.  Patrick  Stewart,  one  of  his  sailors,  on  going 
home  was  somewhat  puzzled  to  find  his  wife  nursing  a  very  young  baby.  The  wife  assured 
her  husband  that  everything  was  correct.  The  credulous  mariner  was  quite  satisfied  till  that 
disagreeable  creature,  a  good-natured  friend,  told  him  to  go  and  look  for  a  father  to  his  child. 
Stewart  did  not  do  so,  but  had  the  slanderer  up  before  the  Session.    The  captain  of  the  St 


Large  Fireplace  in  House  on  South  of  Craigie's  Close. 

Peter,  being  cited  as  a  witness,  swore  that  Stewart  sailed  with  him  from  Elwick  Bay  on  the 
last  day  of  March  1668.  As  the  baby  was  bom  9th  March  1669,  the  ecclesiastical  court 
imposed  a  fine  on  the  sailor  for  leaving  home  too  soon,  and  placed  his  wife  on  the  stool  of 
repentance. 

The  St.  Peter  was  a  trader  in  times  of  peace  and  a  privateer  during  war ;  thus  each 
return  to  Kirkwall  was  hailed  by  the  Town  Council  as  an  opportunity  for  replenishing  the 
Burgh's  stock  of  gunpowder. 


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142  KIRKWALL    IN    THU  ORKNEYS. 

Captain  Winchester  was  twice  married.  His  first  wife  was  a  daughter  of  James  Baikie 
of  Tankerness.  A  handsome  memorial  stone,  perhaps  the  finest  monumental  work  in  the 
Cathedral,  erected  to  her  memory,  is  still  to  be  seen  on  the  wall  of  the  south  nave  aisle. 

In  March  1676,  Winchester  married  Helen,  daughter  of  Walter  Stewart,  minister  of  South 
Ronaldshay,  and  widow  of  the  Rev.  William  Cochrane,  minister  of  Cross  and  Burness,  and 
they  had  a  daughter,  Sibilla.  In  September  of  the  following  year.  Captain  Peter  Winchester, 
Richard  Dennison,  skipper,  and  over  fourteen  others  were  drowned  about  two  miles  ofE 
Fraserburgh.  * 

From  an  entry  in  the  note-book  of  Patrick  Traill  of  Elsness,  skipper,  it  would  appear  that, 
after  her  husband's  death,  Mrs  Winchester  had  the  disposal  of  some  of  the  stores  of  the  St. 
Peter  frigate.  "  23  of  may  1678,  bought  from  hellen  stewart  105  ells  of  french  canfes  at  17 
shelling  per  ell,  geven  her  in  money  63lbs. ;  and  brandie,  seven  pyntes  at  30sh.  the  pynt, 
lOlb.  lOsh. ;  summa  is  73lb.  lOsh." 

Helen  Stewart,  the  second  Mrs  Winchester,  after  four  lonely  years,  married  John  Traill 
of  Elsness. 

When  the  north  side  of  Craigie's  Close  became  utterly  ruinous,  it  was  acquired  by 
William  Patterson,  t  surgeon  in  Kirkwall,  who  built  on  it  the  present  house.  Patterson 
granted  a  bond  over  his  house  to  his  nephew,  Alexander  Patterson,  banker,  Thurso,  who 
by-and-by  became  proprietor,  and  who  sold  it  to  James  Stewart  of  Brugh.  There  had  been 
a  passage  to  the  Oyce  between  Covingtrie's  yard  and  Gairsay's,  and  right-of-way  was  claimed 
by  the  owners  or  tenants  of  the  house  on  each  side  of  it,  but,  in  1814,  Peter  MaxweU,  owner 
of  the  southmost  house  on  Covingtrie's  ground,  sold  his  ^*  right  of  servitude  of  the  said 
passage"  for  £24  to  Marion  Strong,  relict  of  James  Stewart. 

William  Watt  Bain,  writer  and  procurator- fiscal,  and  Janet  Scarth,  his  wife,  next  acquired 
this  property. 

The  death  of  Mr  Bain  renders  somewhat  interesting  a  dream  of  Mr  Clouston,  at  that  time 
occupant  of  Caldale.  Awaking  from  his  first  sleep,  he  told  Mrs  Clouston  that  he  had  seen 
a  ship  come  sailing  up  to  the  house,  and  out  of  it  came  Mr  Bain.  He  said,  too,  that  he  had 
seen  Dr  Duguid  and  the  Rev.  Mr  Logie  in  the  house.  In  Orcadian  dream-lore,  to  see  a  ship 
sailing  on  the  land  portends  death. 

The  previous  afternoon  Mr  Bain  had  gone  out  to  have  a  shot,  and  did  not  return.  Search 
parties  went  to  look  for  him,  and  in  the  early  morning  one  of  these  parties  came  upon  Mr 
Bain,  alive  they  at  first  thought,  as  the  body  was  in  a  sitting  position,  his  gun  lying  beside 
him.  They  carried  the  body  into  Caldale  House,  and  sent  for  the  minister  and  the  doctor^ 
and  thus,  in  a  couple  of  hours,  the  three  persons  dreamt  of  were  in  the  dreamer's  presence. 
Mr  Bain's  son,  Alexander,  succeeded  to  the  business  and  the  house.     He  was  a  long  time 

*  Craven's  History  of  the  Church,  p.  67. 
t  Mr  Patterson  dispensed  his  own  medicines  and  supplied  other  practitioners.  From  an  account 
sent  in  to  Mrs  Allan,  evidently  a  nurse  and  herself  occasionally  a  patient  under  treatment  of  the  surgeon, 
the  medicines  commonly  in  use  in  1775,  and  their  prices,  may  be  seen  : — "  English  Saffron,  2  Drops 
yrself ,  6d ;  Palm  Oil,  6d  ;  A  Glass  of  Cephalic  Drops,  8d  ;  A  Vomiting  Draught,  6d ;  A  Cardiac  Draught, 
6d  ;  A  Glass  Nitrous  Drops,  8d  ;  Honey,  1^  lbs.,  Is  ;  A  Blistering  plaister  for  yr  side,  6d  ;  A  Box  of 
Cerate,  6d  ;  A  Pectoral  Mixture  for  a  woman  in  Egalshay  ;  Bitter  Stomachic  Ingredients  for  ale, 
Is  8d  ;  Stomachic  laxative  Ingredients  for  ale,  28  ;  Stomachic  Ingredients  for  Spirits,  Is  ;  A  pot  of 
Conserve  of  Roses,  Is  3d  ;  Volatile  Camphonited  Liniment,  Is  3d  ;  Balsamic  Linctus,  Is  ;  A  glass  of 
healing  Solution  for  your  hand,  Sd  ;  Peruvian  Bark,  8d  ;  Camphorated  Spirit  of  Wine,  6d  ;  Cream  of 
Tartar,  1  oz.,  3d;  CordialJulep,  Is;  Stomachic  laxative  Pills,  Is  ;  Cardiac  Anodyne  Mixture  for 

David  Spence  child,  ;  Healing  Ointment  for  Child  in  Pabdeall, ;  Two  Purging  Powders,  D. 

Spence, ;  Four  Fever  Powders  for  do.,  ,  &c..  &c."    These,  many  times  repeated,  made  up  & 

bill  of  £4  lis  4d.     It  shows  that  in  some  cases  Mr  Patterson  made  no  charge. 


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143 


Provost  of  Kirkwall.    After  his  death  the  business  was  continued  and  the  house  occupied  by 

his  partner,  the  late  Mr  John  Macrae,  who  succeeded  Mr  Bain  as  procurator-fiscal. 

The  south  side  of  Craigie's  Close  had  early  gone 
to  ruin.  A  house  was  built  on  the  site  by  Robert 
Oarrioch,  wright,  and  afterwards  rebuilt  as  business 
I>remises.  Some  of  the  old  Craigie  monograms  are 
j»reserved  in  the  walls  of  the  new  building. 

The  space  southward  to  the  burn  was  acquired  by 
Captain  John  Gibson  of  Corse,  whose  brother  George, 
dyer  in  Kirkwall,  succeeded  to  it  in  1811,  and  the 
following  year  sold  it  to  Alexander  RusseU,  merchant, 
Shapinsay,  one  of  the  leaders  of  the  Secession  party 
in  Kirkwall.    In  1815  the  whole  area  was  occupied  by 

a  dwelling-house,  office-houses,  and  small  garden.    The  houses  presently  standing  have  been 

built  since  that  date. 


Monogram,  25  Bridge  Street.* 


Monogram,  25  Bridge  Street.* 
'  Favoured  by  Mr  Gibson,  draper. 


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CHAPTER  XI. 

Bridge  Street,  East  Side. 

JKJRKILL  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  there  was  no  house  at  the  corner  of  Bridge 
gjjj^  Street  and  Shore  Street,  and  the  space  where  the  corner  house  now  stands  was  the 
peat-brae  of  the  house  opposite. 

The  next  house  southward  hid  belonged  t<>  Johh^'Cuthbert  before  he  built  his  new  dwelling 
on  the  Ramparts.  In  1677,  it  was  liferented  by  Helen  ScoUay,  "sometyme  relict  of  umqule 
Thomas  Baikie,  now  spous  to  James  Maxwell,  skipper.''  Its  boundaries  then  were  "  the  street 
on  the  west,  the  tenement  p'ntlie  possest  be  Jonet  Cursetter  on  the  east,  Patrick  Traill  of 
Elsness'  peat-yard  on  the  north,  and  the  houss  pertaneing  to  Magnus  Paplay  on  the  south. 
The  late  Mr  John  Cursiter,  who  built  the  house  now  on  this  site,  thought  he  had  good  ground 
for  his  opinion  that  this  was  the  old  '*  Clickimin.''  Hemmed  in  as  it  was,  without  the  pos- 
sibility of  expansion,  the  only  extension  of  premises  practicable  was  the  erection  of  fresh 
buildings  elsewhere.  Thus,  on  the  roadway  between  the  corner  of  Shore  Street  and  the 
present  Harbour  Office,  stood  the  Storehouse  of  Clickimin,  long  since  cleared  away  as  an 
obstruction. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  Clickimin  belonged  to  Barbara  and  Helen  Fea» 
daughters  of  Patrick  Fea  of  Airey,  who  "  mortified  "  this  tenement,  along  with  their  property 
in  Stronsay,  for  the  educational  and  parochial  requirements  of  that  island. 

These  ladies,  who  may  be  termed  the  last  of  their  race,  had  in  their  youth  seen  their 
kinsmen  holding  a  position  and  exerting  an  influence  second  to  nond  in-the  islands. 

Perhaps  the  best  known  branch  of  the  Feas  is  the  Clestrain  family. 

In  May  1720,  James  Fea  of  Clestrain,  **  late  Lieut,  in  73rd  Regt.  foot,''  has  an  action  for 
divorce  against  Ann  Jane  Maria  Harriet  Corbet.* 

By  disposition,  dated  Egilshay,  22nd  Angust  1720,  James  Fea  of  Clestrain  dispones  in 
favour  of  James,  his  eldest  son,  his  lands  of  Clestrain,  with  houses,  <S:c.,  in  Stronsay.  At  the 
same  time  he  provides  for  his  other  son,  John,  and  his  daughters,  Elizabeth,  Barbara,  Helen, 
Isobel,  Jennet,  and  Ann  Feas. 

In  1725,  James  Fea,  younger  of  Clestrain,  was  living  in  Carrick,  in  Eday,  when  Gow's 
ship,  the  "  Revenge,"  went  ashore  on  the  Calf  Holm.  There  is  little  doubt  that,  but  for  this 
accident,  the  pirate  would  have  paid  his  old  schoolfellow  such  a  professional  visit  as  he  had 
recently  made  at  Clestrain,  in  Orpbir.  Fea  quite  understood  this,  and  laid  his  plans  accord- 
ingly. It  was  a  case  of  strategy  vtnm  strength.  At  first  he  had  only  James  Laing,  merchant, 
Calfsound,  and  William  Scollay,  skipper,  on  whom  he  could  rely  for  active  assistance. 
Accordingly  he  temporised,  and  even  sought  consideration  at  Gow's  hands : — "  Carrick, 
Saturday,  13th,  1726.  Sir,— I  have  sent  this  bearert  on  board,  intreating  that,  upon  old 
acquaintance,  you'll  be  pleased  to  forbear  the  usual  compliment  of  a  salutation  because  of  my 

♦  H.  L.  t  Laing. 


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BRIDGE  STREET,   EAST  SIDE.  145 

wife's  indisposition.  Had  she  been  well,  I  should  have  come  on  board  myself."  And  the 
letter  concludes  : — "  No  more,  but  that  1  am  your  old  school  commerad.  (Sic  subscribttar} 
James  Fea." 

When  Fea  had  succeeded  in  decoying  ashore  and  securing  the  best  part  of  the  buccaneer 
crew,  and  when  his  own  friends  had  gathered  in  force,  the  letters  from  Carrick  assumed  a 
different  tone: — "17th,  8  of  the  clock,  Mattin.  Sir,— I  received  yours  from  on  board  the 
'Revenge/  dated  16th  instant,  1725.  I  am  surprised  that  a  youth  of  your  education  should 
not  have  better  manners  than  to  chalenge  me  upon  a  lye.  You  confidently  assert,  what  I  have 
already  refused,  that  they  are  carpenters  here.  Your  informer  is  certainly  a  rogue.  I  am 
sorry  I  ever  wrote  you  ;  but  I  thought  you  had  been  such  a  man  as  a  boy.  I  pray  you 
seriously  to  consider  qt  a  thing  it  is  to  burn  everlastingly."  He  goes  on  to  exhort  the  pirate 
and  his  crew  to  seek  "forgiveness  by  the  merits  of  a  crucified  Saviour,"  and  winds  up  :  — 
"  This  is  the  last  you  may  expect  from  me.  (Sic  subscribiturj  James  Fea.  You'll  be  a  prize 
this  night  or  nixt  day  to  those  that  will  treat  you  more  harshly." 

As  showing  how  promptly  the  islands  mustered  for  the  capture  of  these  miscreants,  it  haa 
only  to  be  noticed  that,  on  the  13th  of  February,  Fea  wrote  asking  forbearance  at  the  hands  of 
Gow,  and  on  the  18th,  "  Clestrain  went  on  board,  and  several  of  his  friends  with  him,  to  con- 
gratulate his  success,  and  to  witness  his  possession.  The  late  commander,  Mr  Gow  Smith, 
was  brought  alongst  with  them,  who,  in  presence  of  these  honourable  gentlemen,  viz.,  Sir 
James  Stewart  of  Burray,  Barronate ;  Captain  Archibald  Drumand ;  Robert  Stewart,  eldest 
son  to  Robert  Stewart  of  Eday  ;  William  Fea  of  Milnfield ;  James  Fea  of  Whitehall ;  Mr 
Archibald  Pitcairne,  merchant ;  Mr  Francis  Wilson,  Comptroller  of  the  Customs  ;  Mr  Thomas 
Baikie,  land-waiter ;  James  Traill  of  Westove,  and  several  oyrs,  declared  that  the  said 
Clestrain  was  the  man  whose  prisoner  he  was,  and  wished  the  said  Clestrain  an  happy  enjoy- 
ment of  the  said  ship,  and  more  contentment  than  ever  he  had  into  her.  Whereupon  the  said 
James  Fea  took  instruments  in  the  hands  of  Alex.  Mowate,  nottar-publict,  craveing  the 
benefite  of  the  law  made  anent  apprehending  of  pyrates  may  be  extended  to  him  because  of 
the  reasons  foresaid."  * 

With  regard  to  the  "  benefite,"  Tudor  says  : — "  Fea,  for  the  capture  of  Gow,  is  said  to 
have  received  £1100  from  Government,  £300  for  salvage,  and  £400  from  the  merchants  of 
London  for  relieving  them  of  such  a  pest."  He  adds,  however—"  Fea  is  said  to  have  been 
mined  through  the  numerous  suits  that  were  trumped  up  against  him  in  the  courts  for  his 
share  in  Gow's  capture." 

"  In  1739,  Feb.  20,  James  Fea  of  Clestrain  and  Janet  Buchanan,  spouse,  let  all  their  lands 
in  Eday  for  seven  years  at  £30  stg." 

In  the  Rebellion  of  1746,  Fea  acted  as  go-between,  in  the  interest  of  Prince  Charles,  with 
the  Orcadians.  Captain  Moodie  of  Melsetter  writes  to  his  agent  in  Edinburgh  :— "  I  believe, 
if  you'll  enquire  concerning  Robert  Strange  or  Strang,  ingraver,  late  apprentice  to  Mr  Cooper, 
at  Edinburgh,  which  Strange  was  an  engineer  in  the  Rebel  army,  it  can  be  proved  by  him  and 
others  that  Clestrain  was  at  the  Pretender's  son's  camp  at  Falkirk,  establishing  his  credit  with 
the  Pretender's  son,  and  managing  the  Orkney  affairs."  t 

Fea  was  enthusiastic,  but  unsucccessful.  He  collected  arms  in  his  house  of  Sound,  and 
sent  them  to  the  Aire  of  Kirkwall,  whence  they  were  carried  off  by  the  rebels.  He  gave  them 
a  quantity  of  brandy,  which  had  been  seized  by  Mr  Baikie,  officer  of  Excise,  and  which 
Clestrain  had  compelled  Baikie  to  retain  till  Ardloch's  arrival  in  Kirkwall.  Mackenzie  of 
Ardloch  was  sent  by  the  Prince,  at  Fea's  instigation,  with  a  party  to  raise  men  and  money* 
They  landed  in  Walls,  and  looted  Melsetter,  the  laird  being  a  Hanoverian  captain. 
♦  Pet.  Notes,  222.  f  G.  Petrie*8  Notes,  Ant.  Mus. 

IT 


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146  KIRKWALL    IN    THK   ORKNEYS. 

After  Ciilloden,  Captains  Lloyd  and  Williams  landed  in  Shapinsay,  and  burned  the 
house  of  Sound,  which  Fea  had  through  his  wife,  Janet  Buchanan.  The  party  entered  the 
chamber  of  Mrs  Fea,  Lady  Sound,  allowing  her  to  throw  on  a  petticoat  and  loose  gown— no 
time  for  more— placed  her  in  a  chair  under  guard  of  some  of  the  crew,  one  of  whom  held  a 
naked  cutlass  to -her  breast.  There  she  was  forced  to  sit  and  see  her  house  burned,  and  her 
effects  carried  off  or  destn>yed.  Personally,  she  was  roughly  handled,  and  her  ankle  was 
•dislocated. 

She  raised  an  action  against  the  parties  cm  the  ground  that  the  house  was  her  own. 

As  to  the  ankle,  it  was  stated  for  the  defence  that  Mrs  Fea  was  a  "  very  stout,  heavy 
woman,"  and  that  her  ankle  was  dislocated  by  her  own  weight  while  they  were  helping  her  to 
the  manse  of  Shapinsay  after  her  own  house  was  burned. 

It  appears  that  after  the  Jacobite  troubles  were  over.  Government  did  intend  to  do  some- 
thing for  Fea  and  his  wife. 

The  Barons  of  Exchetjuer,  writing  from  Edinburgh  to  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  His 
Majesty's  Treasury,  23rd  January  1756,  say*  :— 

**  May  it  please  your  Lordships, 

'*  III  obedience  to  your  Lordships'  Commands,  signified  to  us  by  Mr  Hardinge  in  his  Letter  dated 
the  26th  of  June  last  past,  we  did,  on  the  6th  day  of  August,  inform  your  Lops,  that,  in  order  to  make 
effectual  the  Sum  of  £158*2  pounds  thirteen  shillings  which  his  Majesty,  out  of  his  Royal  Grace  and 
Favour,  intended  to  grant  to  James  Fea  of  Clestron  and  Janet,  his  wife,  to  pay  the  arrear  of  Few 
dutys  due  from  the  estates  of  Sound  and  Claistron,  it  would  be  necessary  to  oitler  them  payment  out 
of  the  Produce  of  Crown  Rents  and  Casualties,  and  not  out  of  the  Compositions  of  Few  duties  ;  and 
as  to  that  part  of  the  said  Letter  where  in  your  Lops,  were  pleased  to  Kefer  to  our  Consideration  a 
proposal  made  by  the  late  Lord  Advocate  in  his  Supplemental  memorial  therein  mentioned.  That  the 
saio  James  Fea  and  Janet,  his  wife,  should  Resign  the  Lands  therein  mentioned,  which  hold  of  the 
Bishopric  of  Orkney,  and  that  a  New  Grant  thereof  should  be  made  to  them  and  their  heirs  of  the 
said  Lands,  subject  to  the  yearly-  payment  of  such  Reasonable  and  moderate  Few-duties  as  the  said 
Lands  may  be  able  to  affoard. " 

The  Barons  farther  report  that,  after  careful  examination  "of  all  facts  and  circumstances 
which  might  serve  to  give  light  into  this  affair,"  they  would  recommend  **the  payment  yearly 
of  twenty-five  Pounds  Sterling  for  the  Lands  of  Clestron,  Sound,  Eday,  and  Sandside,  and 
twelve  Pounds  Sterling  yearly  for  the  Lands  of  Miness  and  Waltness  as  contained  in  a  Sasine 
granted  to  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound,  anno  1666,  w^hich  Few-duties  are  in  our  oppinion 
reasonable  and  moderate,  and  such  as  the  Lands  can  afford."  + 

This  was  in  1756,  and  Fea  died  the  same  year.  His  brother,  John,  who  succeeded, 
resigned  to  his  sisters  all  his  lands,  and  gave  them  life-rent  of  the  third  part  of  12,0(X)  nierks 
Scots,  the  other  two-thirds  to  go  to  his  natural  sons,  Alexander  and  Henry,  of  whose 
upbringing  the  ladies  were  to  take  charge. 

Another  Fen,  James,  of  Whitehall,  kinsman  and  contemporary  of  Clestrain,  was  one  of 
Orkney's  benefactors. 

In  his  evidence  in  the  great  Pundlar  Process,  "  George  Traill  of  Hobbister  depones  that 
James  Fea  of  Whitehall  was  the  first  that  began  to  burn  Kelp  in  the  Country,  and  brought  a 
Man  from  Peterhead  J  for  that  purpose,  and  that  he  thinks  that  the  kelp  Trade  brings  in  a 
great  deal  of  Money  to  Orkney,  and  that  the  Gentlemen  and  tenants  would  have  been  very 
poor  if  that  Trade  had  not  been." 

Valuable  as  this  industry  has  proved,  its  introduction  met  with  considerable  opposition. 
In  every  age  and  place  people  are  to  be  found  who  feel  themselves  impelled  to  resist  all 
progressive  movements,  and,  in  1722,  such  hide- bound  obstructionists  were  not  wanting  in 

*  Papers  in  possession  of  Mrs  Skae,  7iee  Traill  of  Weetove. 
t  Mrs  Skae's  papers.  X  In  1722. 


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BRIDGK  STREET,    EAST  SIDE.  147 

Orkney.  "  They  were  certain  that  the  suffocating  smoke  which  issued  from  the  kelp-kilns, 
would  sicken  or  kill  every  species  of  iish  on  the  coast,  or  drive  them  out  to  the  ocean  far 
beyond  the  reach  of  fishermen  ;  blast  the  corn  and  grass  on  their  farms  ;  introduce  diseases 
among  the  human  species,  and  smite  with  barrenness  all  sorts  of  animals/'  * 

For  some  years  Whitehall  was  the  sole  kelp-burner  in  Orkney,  but  when  his  neighbours 
saw  that  there  was  money  in  the  business,  some  of  the  more  enterprising  of  them  followed  his 
example,  till  to  the  eye  of  the  passing  mariner  the  smoke  from  the  kilns  distinguished  Stronsay 
from  the  other  islands,  and  gave  it  the  appearance  of  an  active  volcano. 

After  forty  years'  suppression,  conservative  wrath  burst  out  in  what  is  traditionally 
known  as  the  Kelp  Riot. 

*•  On  the  28th  Oct.  1762,  At  an  adjourned  Session  of  Court,  Sentence  was  given  against  Patrick 
Fea,  Dinnatonn,  in  Stronsay,  and  John  Fea  in  Cleat  there,  in  a  criminal  prosecution  by  William 
Spence,  Procurator-Fiscal,  upon  complaint  of  Thomas  Balfour  of  Huip.  That  the  said  Patrick  Fea 
had  upon  Sundav,  16  May  last,  at  Church  door  of  Stronsay,  caused  call  a  meeting  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Stronsay  at  Millfield  on  Monday  following,  the  17th  May,  at  9  o'clock  a.m.,  and,  headed  by  sd. 
Patrick  Fea,  had  destroyed  the  Tang  and  Kelp  upon  the  shores,  and  the  Tang  and  Kelp  instruments 
belonging  to  Thomas  Balfour,  Br.  German  to  William  Balfour  of  Trtinaby  ana  others  ;  and  upon  the 
20th  May,  the  Stewart  Depute  having  granted  warrant  to  the  Stewart  and  Baillie  officers  to  appre- 
hend and  bring  before  him  the  said  Patrick  Fea  and  the  other  rioters,  that  the  said  officers  were 
deforced  ;  that  the  sd.  Shf.  Depute,  upon  22nd  May,  granted  warrant  to  John  Riddoch,  Stewart 
Substitute,  to  proceed  to  Stronsay  with  such  a  number  of  men  in  arms  as  necessary  to  execute  said 
warrant,  who,  naving  proceeded  to  Stronsay  with  such  party  of  men  to  execute  said  warrant,  and 
come  to  the  house  of  sa.  Patrick  Fea  about  1 1  o'clock  at  night  of  said  day,  and  knocking  at  doors  and 
getting  no  access,  the  doors  were  opened  and  the  said  Patrick  Fea  apprehended  ;  but  the  prisoner's 
wife  fainting,  and  other  disorder  in  the  house,  he  had  given  him  liberty  on  the  promise  of  presenting 
himself  where  and  when  he  should  be  called  for  in  the  Island.  That  next  day,  23rd  May,  having 
apprehended  four  or  five  more  prisoners  and  carried  them  to  the  ground  of  Holland,  on  his  way  to 
apprehend  the  other  persons  contained  in  his  warrant,  that  when  the  said  John  Riddoch  came  to  the 
sd.  ground  of  Holland,  they  observed  a  body  of  men  and  women  at  some  distance,  to  the  uuml)er  of 
60  or  thereby,  all  armed  with  batons,  upon  which  the  sd.  Stewart  Substitute  desired  the  sd.  William 
Balfour  of  Trenaby  and  the  sd.  Sh.  Substitute's  party  to  remain  with  the  prisoners,  and  he,  John 
Riddoch,  and  the  Baillie  of  the  Island  went  towards  the  mob  to  persuade  them  to  disperse,  and  read 
his  warrant  before  them  and  the  Act  of  Parlt.  against  such  mobs,  and  commanded  them  in  H.M.  name 
to  disperse,  but  they  refused.  He  then  ordered  William  Balfour  and  the  party  with  the  prisoners  to 
proceed  to  the  house  of  Holland  for  their  safety,  which  they  did,  he,  John  Riddoch,  keeping  before 
the  mob  to  keep  them  back  ;  while  so  occupied  he  observed  Patrick  Fea,  at  the  head  of  another  mob 
armed  with  batons,  etc.,  running  towards  the  Sh.  Substitute's  party,  said  Patrick  Fea  crying  to  the 
mob  to  follow  him  and  spare  none  ;  that  though  called  on  to  stop  in  the  King's  name,  and  reminded  of 
his,  John  Riddoch's  lenity,  and  his,  Patrick  lea's  promise,  the  sd.  Patrick  Fea  said  he  had  come,  and 
those  with  him,  to  revenue  the  treatment  his  wife  and  family  had  got  from  him  and  his  party  last 
night ;  that  the  said  Patrick  Fea  grappled  with  him,  the  said  John  Riddoch,  and  struck  him  with  his 
baton  twice  over  the  head,  b}'  which  he  was  wounded  to  the  effusion  of  blood,  and  several  of  his 
party  struck  to  the  ground  by  the  said  Patrick  Fea  and  others  of  the  mob,  and  the  prisoners  rescued  ; 
and  although  he,  John  Riddoch,  had  a  cocked  pistol  in  his  hand,  loaded,  and  a  small  sword  by  his 
side,  and  his  whole  party  arms,  yet  neither  did  he  fire  his  pistol  nor  draw  his  sword,  nor  did  he  allow 
any  of  his  party  to  fire  when  they  cried  out  for  his  orders  to  fire  in  their  own  defence. 

*'  In  mitigation,  it  was  pleaded  that  the  sd.  John  Riddoch  and  his  party  had  transgressed  their 
power  by  beating  and  cutting  the  sd.  Patrick  Fea  in  the  head,  and  the  said  «fohn  Fea  in  the  hand,  to 
the  efiiision  of  blood,  and  so  it  was  lawful  to  resist  them  ;  and.  Moreover,  for  the  sd.  Peter  and  John 
Fea,  '  it  is  added  that  it  is  the  common  opinion  of  Orkney  and  others  that  the  burning  of  Tang  in  this 
Country  has  not  only  been  the  cause  of  oad  crops  of  corn  these  three  years  past,  but  also  that  the 
same  has  been  prejudicial  to  their  persons  and  cattle  when  in  a  sickly  condition,  and  made  them  in  a 
worse  condition,  and  some  of  the  cattle  dyed  by  the  smoke  thereof,  and  for  want  of  wair  the  fish  have 
ffone  from  the  shores,  and  the  lempods  growing  upon  the  rocks,  being  sometimes  the  food  of  the  poor, 
for  want  of  wair  blades,  their  covering,  have  fallen  from  the  said  rocks  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  so  that 
the  poor  people  were  deprived  of  that  part  of  their  food,  and  the  generality  of  the  farmers  in  this 
country  conceived  that  they  had  a  right  to  preserve  their  own  interest  by  opposing  their  burning  of 
kelp ;  and  if  the  said  Peter  and  John  Fea  have  done  anything  against  the  ouming  of  kelp,  it  waa 

*  Percy  Anecdotes — Industries. 


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148  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

from  no  ill-will,  but  for  the  preservation  of  their  interest,  which  they  thought  the  Law  allowed  them 
to  defend,  and  they  deny  that  they  were  assembled  riotously  and  tuinultuously  to  the  disturbance  of 
the  public  peace  before  Mr  Riddoch  came  to  the  Island,  but  when  they  were  informed  of  his  intent 
there,  the  said  John  Fea  came  to  him  and  offered  to  come  with  him  to  Kirkwall  as  his  prisoner,  and 
desired  to  know  the  time ;  and  all  that  the  said  Patrick  and  John  Feas  further  intended  was  to 
defend  themselves  against  Thomas  Balfour,  Brother  to  William  Balfour  of  Trenaby,  who  threatened 
to  shoot  three  or  four  of  the  Inhabitants  of  Strousay,  and  said  that  then  the  rest  would  drive  before 
him  and  his  party  like  sheep.'  " 

It  came  out  in  evidence  that  William  Balfour  had  struck  Richard  Angus,  who  had  Thomas 
Balfour  under  him  on  the  ground,  that  Thomas  Balfour  had  met  Richard  Angus  on  his  way  to 
the  crowd  with  a  cocked  pistol  presented  to  him  in  one  hand  and  a  drawn  sword  in  the  other, 
whereupon  he,  Richard  Angus,  had  dit»armed  him. 

One  witness  deponed  that  while  Patrick  Fea  and  Mr  Riddoch  were  striking  at  each  other 
with  staves,  he  saw  William  Balfour  make  a  stroke  at  Patrick  Fea  with  a  sword,  and  it  was 
that  stroke  which  drew  blood. 

'*  The  jury  found  it  proven  that  the  said  Peter  and  John  Feas  were  guilty,  art  and  part,  in 
tumultuously  and  riotously  assembling  with  a  number  of  other  persons,  and  in  sloakiug  some  kelp 
kilns  and  carrying  away  the  kelp  instruments,  and  likewise  unanimously  found  that  the  said  Peter 
and  John  Feas  were  riotously  assemble<l,  with  a  number  of  other  persons,  on  the  ground  of  Holland, 
and  that  Patrick  Fea.  did  attack  and  invade  the  person  of  John  Riddoch,  Stewart  Substitute,  by 
taking  him  by  the  breast  and  beating  him  over  the  head  with  a  staff,  but  found  it  not  proven  that  the 
said  John  Fea  was  guilty  of  any  act  of  violence,  and  lastly  found  that  the  persons  who  were  appre- 
hended by  order  of  Mr  Riddoch  were  rescued,  but  not  proven  by  whom. 

(Sifljned)        James  Baikie,  Chanc'or." 

'*  Peter  Fea  was  sentenced  to  pay  £140  Scots,  and  John  Fea  £60  Scots,  and  to  remain  in  the 
Tolbooth  of  Kirkwall  till  paid,  and  on  pajTnent  of  his  tine  by  John  Fea,  and  finding  caution  to  keep 
the  peace  for  three  years  under  penalty  of  300  merks,  to  be  set  at  liberty  ;  but  Patrick  Fea,  on 
payment  of  the  sum,  to  be  taken  and  remain  in  custody'  of  an  officer  of  court,  aye  and  while  he  shall 
stand  for  the  space  of  an  hour  bare  headed,  and  having  an  extract  of  the  above  mentioned  verdict  and 
this  present  sentence  featened  to  his  breast,  at  the  most  patent  door  of  the  church  of  Kirkwall,  the 
church  of  St.  Andrews,  the  church  of  Deei-ness,  the  church  of  Firth,  the  church  of  Orphir,  and  the 
church  of  Sti-onsay,  and  that  immediately  before  Divine  Service,  and  as  the  congregation  shall  be 
convening  at  each  of  the  said  Churches,  and  ordains  the  said  Peter  Fea,  before  1st  March  next  to 
come,  to  lodge  in  the  hands  of  the  Clerk  of  Court  execution  under  the  hand  of  the  officer  who  shall 
have  him  in  custody,  and  who  shall  be  witness  to  the  fulfilling  of  this  sentence,  bearins  that  he  has 
so  performed  the  same  upon  the  oath  of  the  officer,  with  certification  ;  that  if  he  shall  fail  in  lodging 
such  execution  he  shall  be  banished  the  Islands  of  Orkney  for  3  years,  and  in  the  case  aforesaid  he  is 
hereby  declared  and  adjudged  to  be  Imnished  accordingly^  under  the  pain  of  being  whipt  by  the 
common  Hangman  if,  within  the  space  of  3  years  from  sd.  Ist  March,  he  shall  be  found  within  the 
Islands.     And  this  is  pronounced  for  doom.  (Signed)        Andrew  Ross." 

In  the  wretched  state  of  Orcadian  agriculture  in  the  eighteenth  century,  little  money 
could  be  made  by  farming  ;  but  after  the  introduction  of  the  kelp  trade,  places  on  the  coast 
where  tang  could  be  cut  or  gathered  became  valuable.  It  is  said  that  some  favourably 
situated  farms  rose  from  £40  of  rent  to  £300. 

As  to  the  price  from  year  to  year,  Tudor  says  : — "Between  the  years  1740  and  1760,  the 
price  was  about  45s  a  ton,  and  about  £2(XK)  yearly  brought  into  the  islands  ;  1760-70,  £4  4s  a 
ton,  and  £6000  yearly  ;  1770-80,  £5  a  ton,  and  £10,000  yearly  ]  1780-91,  nearly  £6  a  ton,  and 
£17,0(X).  During  the  long  French  war  the  price  rose  as  high  as  £20  a  ton  ;  and  even  as  late 
as  1826,  3500  tons,  the  largest  ever  produced  in  one  year,  were  made  in  the  islands,  and  sold  at 
£7  a  ton." 

The  following  table*  shows  the  quantity  of  kelp  shipped  from  Kirkwall,  and  the  ports 

of  destination,  during  half-a-dozen  years  of  the  French  war,  when  the  trade  was  coming  to 

its  best : — 

*  Favoured  by  T.  W.  Ranken,  Esq. 


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BRIDGE  STREET,   EAST  SIDE. 


149 


'  Account  of  Kelp  Shift  from  Kirkwall  in  the  following  Periods,  viz.  :— 
**FoR  WHAT  Ports  sent,  and  Quantities. 


Periods. 

Glas- 
gow. 

Dun- 
dee. 

Leith. 

New- 
castle. 

Sun- 
derPd. 

Whit- 
by. 

Stret- 
ton. 

Lon- 
don. 

Bris- 
tol. 

Liver- 
pool. 

Hull. 

Totals. 

1789  

1790  

1791  

1792  

1793  

1794  

1795.  ... 

296 
199 
303 
479 
275 
333 
486 

266 
96 
25 

155 
162 
239 
309 
199 
224 
250 

1455 
1050 
1079 
1480 
1179 
1484 
976 

140 
90 

70 

78 
70 

60 
105 
213 
100 
104 
114 

75 
135 
30 
40 
39 
62 

55 
40 

36 

60 
60 

170 

7o 

60 

110 
394 
365 
342 
247 

60 

2156  Tons 

2315 

2632 

2128 

2115 

2504 

2018 

"  Highland  kelp  is  preferred  at  Liverpool ;  but  at  Newcastle,  and  on  the  east  coast  of  England, 
the  Orkney  kelp  is  preferred." — SicU.  Acct. 

It  was  probably  to  facilitate  the  transport  of  kelp  that  carts  came  into  use  in  the  islands. 
In  1793,  there  were  thirty-seven  in  Sanday. 

South  from  Clickimin  was  a  house  which,  in  1677,  belonged  to  Magnus  Paplay,  weaver.  It 
afterwards  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Burgh,  and  part  of  it  was  at  one  time  occupied  by 
Peter  Wick,  town  piper ;  thus  it  is  still  popularly  known  as  the  Piper's  House.  The  chief 
duty  of  this  official  was  to  traverse  the  whole  length  of  Kirkwall  every  morning  before  six 
o'clock,  and  rouse  the  sleepers  with  the  skirl  of  his  pipes. 

The  last  of  our  pipers,  James  Wallace,  felt  that  in  his  bargain  with  the  Council  he  had 
been  to  some  extent  outwitted  : — 

"  Unto  the  Hounourable  the  Magistrates  and  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall,  the  petition  of  James 
"Wallace,  Town  piper  in  Kirkwall, 

"  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  at  the  time  of  the  petitioner's  agrement  with  the  Hounourable  Magis- 
trats  and  Councile  of  Kirkwall  as  pii>er,  which  was  in  Angus  1812,  Did  not  agree  for  a  Pair  of  Shoes, 
nor  was  it  Ever  thought  on  or  meintoned  ;  But  I  have  been  often  Told  by  the  Leat  piper's  sous  that 
he  got  a  pair  of  shoes  anualy,  and  it  is  very  well  knowen  to  your  Honours  that  I  have  as  great  need  of 
a  pair  of  Shoes  as  He  had ;  for  I  am  Shure  that  I  go  out  }il&ny  a  Dark  morning,  and  coms  in  with  weet 
feet. 

"  May  it  therefor  please  your  Hounours  to  take  this  petition  into  consideration,  and  grant  your 
petitioner's  Request ;  and  your  petitioner  Shall  Ever  pray.  James  Wallace." 

South  of  the  Piper's  House  was  the  town  residence  of  the  Irvines  of  Sabay,  an  offshoot  of 
the  Irvines  of  Drum.  As  early  as  1369,  William  de  Irvine,  son  of  the  Laird  of  Drum,  was 
resident  in  Kirkwall.* 

Among  the  ciiarges  in  the  indictment  of  Earl  Patrick  is  this  :— 

**  Also,  the  said  Patrick,  Erie  of  Orknay,  tressonabillie  persuadet,  induced,  counsallit,  and  com- 
mandit  William  Sinclair  of  Etha,  Henrie  Sinclair  of  Touquhy,  Mr  Robert  Hendersoun,  William 
Irving  of  Sabav,  and  many  uther  gentilmen  of  the  saidis  countries  of  Orknay  and  Zeitland,  to  sub- 
Bcryve  and  delyver  to  him  ane  Imnd,  callit  band  mutus,  and  thairby  obleise  thame  selffis  and  thsir 
ains,  that  they  sould  serve  and  manteine  him  aganis  all  and  quhatsumeuir  persones,  without  any 
reservatioun  of  ws,  and  that  they  sould  nevir  heir  nor  knaw  his  hurt  or  skaith,  bot  sould  reveill  it 
within  twentie-foure  houres  without  ony  exceptioun  of  impossibilitie  or  distance  of  place,  contrarietie 
of  wind,  wedder,  or  vther  impediment,  vnder  the  pane  of  tynsell  of  lyfe,  landis,  and  guidis  ;  conteining 
also  this  clause,  *  that  gif  it  hapued  that  the  contravening  of  this  band  be  ony  of  the  saidis  subscryveris 
sould  nocht  cum  to  the  Erie's  knawledge,  quhile  efter  the  committeeis  decease,  it  sould  be  liesum  to 
him  to  try  the  samyn,  efter  thair  daithe,  aganis  thair  airis,  and  pwneise  thair  saidis  airis,  as  he  mycht 
haif  done  the  principall  offendour  ;  and  that  the  said  probation  of  thair  contravening  of  the  said  band 
sould  be  sufficient  be  tua  witnessis,'  byndand  lykwayis  the  saidis  gentilmen  and  vthers  of  the  cuntrie 

♦  *♦  The  St.  Clairs  of  the  Islss,"  by  Ronald  St.  Clair. 


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150  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

to  be  judged  by  the  said  Erie,  and  nevir  to  seik  to  King,  counsell,  nor  session  ;  quhilk  band  the  said 
Erie  hes  debaited  to  be  lauchfull,  and  has  contest  the  ressaving  and  haveing  thairof,  althocht  it  be 
maist  vnnaturall,  iniust,  tyrannical,  impossible,  and  tressonable,  bindand  men  to  impossibilities,  and 
inioyneing  to  them  in  caice  of  contra ventionn  the  paynes  of  treasone." 

This  charge  was  brought  against  Patrick  Stewart  in  1610,  but  poor  William  Irving  did  not 
live  to  see  the  end  of  the  trial  His  death,  in  1614,  added  a  fresh  clause  to  the  indictment : — 
'^Dureing  the  tyme  of  the  quhilk  assault  maid  to  the  said  castell  be  the  said  leutennent, 
James  Richiesone,  William  Irving,  Andro  Adameson,  and  William  Robertson,  his  Maiestei's 
faithfull  subiectis,  war  maist  tressonabillie  slane.***  Irving  was  buried  in  the  Cathedral,  where 
his  tombstone  still  records  the  nature  of  his  death  : — "  Heir  lyis  Villiam  Vrving,  Sone  to 
Vmql.  Villiam  Virving  of  Sabay,  Being  Schott  out  of  ye  Castel,  In  His  Maiestie's  S.V.S." 

In  1616,  William  Irving's  widow,  Elizabeth  Thomson,  borrowed  from  her  daughter, 
Elizabeth,  one  hundred  merks.  In  1617,  William  Irving  of  Sabay  owes  his  father-in-law, 
William  Sinclair  of  Tolhop,t  700  merks,  and  gives  Sabay  as  security.  In  1619,  disputes, 
raised  by  Robert  Bannatyne  of  Groundwater,  husband  of  William  Irving's  daughter,  Barbara, 
and  involving  James  Stewart  of  Graemsay,  crippled  the  estate.  In  1622,  William  Irving,  now 
of  Sabay,  revokes  grants  made  in  his  minority  to  Magnus  Sinclair  and  Marjorie  Irving,  his 
spouse. 

This  William  died  without  issue,  and  Sabay  passed  to  his  sister,  Marjorie,  and  her 
husband,  Magnus  Sinclair. 

The  Sinclairs  were  at  that  time  undoubtedly  the  most  extensive  landowners  in  Orkney 
outside  the  pale  of  earldom  and  bishopric.  They  held  the  greater  part  of  Deerness,  much  of 
St.  Andrews  and  of  Holm,  Orphir  from  Coubister  to  Smoogro,  Clumlie,  and  properties  in  the 
north  and  south  isles.  They  mated  with  the  highest  in  the  land.  Upon  the  seventeenth  day 
of  May  1580,  "compeired  personally  Magnus  Sinclair,  in  the  Close  of  the  Yards,  wtin  the 
towne  of  Barkwall,  for  observing  and  fulfilling  of  ye  heids  of  ane  contract  of  marriage  betwixt 
John  Sinclair,  eldest  son  to  the  said  Magnus  and  Marie  Stewart,  Brother  Dochter  to  ane 
nobill  and  potent  Lord  Robert  Stewart,  fewar  of  Orkney  and  Zetland  "  ;  and  Magnus  gave 
the  young  couple  the  lands  of  Braebuster  and  Tolhop. 

Magnus  Sinclair  and  Marjorie  Irving  seemed  to  have  preferred  Sabay  to  their  town 
house,  which  was  in  a  ruinous  condition  before  it  came  into  possession  of  their  heirs. 
"  Robert  and  James  Sinclairs  of  Sabay  hath  ane  great  ludgeing,  sometyme  pertaining  to  the 
Sinclairs  of  Sabay  (the  twa  pt.  qrof  is  without  roofe,  and  the  rest  qrof  p'tlie  under  theack 
roof  and  p'tlie  under  sclaitt  roofe),  p'ntlie  possest  by  James  Linay,  cordiner,  and  uthers." 

The  Sinclairs  disponed  the  old  house  to  Hutcheon  Cromarty  and  his  wife,  a  daughter  of 
Bessie  Irving,  younger  sister  of  William,  who  was  "schott,"  and  from  them  the  Sabay 
mansion  passed  to  their  daughter,  Margaret  Cromarty,  and  her  husband,  Walter  Fearne, 
htster. 

The  term  "  litster,"  for  dyer,  has  become  obsolete  in  Orkney,  but  in  the  Fair  Isle  we  still 
have  a  trace  of  it ;  the  pot  in  which  the  women  mix  their  pigments  for  dyeing  their  home-spun 
yarn  is  still  called  the  lit-pot.  Robert  Monteith  of  Egilshay,  in  his  "  Description  of  Orkney 
and  Zetland,"  mentions  a  lichen  which  the  Shetlanders  "  scrape  off  the  stone  to  make  the  Lit 
they  call  the  Corker  Litt."  The  litsters  of  Kirkwall,  in  the  seventeenth  century,  were  a  very 
important  class,  and  many  of  them  acquired  wealth. 

In  the  old  days,  when  trades  had  special  privileges  secured  to  them  by  law,  they  were 
more  exclusive  and  jealous  of  each  other  than  they  now  are.  The  litsters,  it  would  seem, 
sometimes  bought  webs  straight  from  the  loom,  dyed  them  to  their  own  taste,  and  then  sold 

*  Pet.  Notes,  App.,  p.  51.  t  Toab. 


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BRIDGE  STREET,   EAST  SIDE.  151 

them,  perhaps  by  retail.  Hence  an  Act  of  the  Scottish  Parliament,  1467  :— "  It  is  seen  speede- 
fuU  that  lit  be  cryed  up  and  used  as  it  wont  to  be.  And  that  na  Litster  be  Draper,  nor  bye 
claith  to  sell  againe  under  the  paine  of  escheit." 

Walter  Fearne,  a  ferry louper,  was  not  much  of  a  man.  His  wife  may  not  have  been  the 
most  prudent  of  women,  but  he  should  not  have  driven  her  to  the  Session  for  redress  of 
undoubted  wrongs. 

"  Coinpeired  Margaret  Cromartie,  spous  to  Walter  femes,  litster,  and  complained  upon  her 
husband  for  abusing  her,  and  sometyuies  in  his  rage  beating  her,  and  giving  her  nothing  of  his 
wining,  neither  suffering  her  to  live  in  peace  with  him,  nor  bedded  with  her  since  lambes,  and 
permitting  his  servants  to  vex  her,  keeping  them  against  hir  will,"  **and  desyred  my  lord  bishop  to 
bring  them  to  reconciliation  again.'' 

'*  Compeired  the  said  Walter,  and  declared  that  her  deportment  and  carriage  whs  the  onlie  cause 
of  thir  variance,  and  that  he  was  sorrie  therfor,  neither  did  he  allow  his  servants  in  the  least  to  speak 
roughlie  to  her  or  abuse  her. " 

*'  Mv  Lord  Bishop  and  Session,  having  heard  them  both  and  considered  the  matter :  Therefore 
My  Lord  Bishop  admonished  them  of  their  dewtie,  and  exhorted  them  to  live  more  peaceablie,  and  to 
continue  in  love  and  amitie,  as  becomes  married  persons.  Wherupon  the  sd.  WaU^r  took  his  wife 
by  the  hand,  and  each  of  them  promised  not  to  be  heard  any  more  in  publick  anent  that  particular."  * 

In  part  of  the  Sabay  mansion,  Fearne  had  as  a  tenant  Alexander  M'Rae,  peruker,  whom 
he  had  to  summon  for  rent  in  1689. 

In  1692,  the  Rev.  John  Wilson  and  Isobel  Traill,  his  wife,  acquired  this  property  from 
Walter  Fearne. 

Mr  Wilson  came  to  Kirkwall  from  Aberdeen,  May  1683,  and  was  appointed  minister  of 
the  Second  Charge  in  January  of  the  following  year.  Within  three  months  he  was  translated 
to  Stronsay  and  Eday,  and  in  two  years  was  recalled  to  St.  Magnus.  "  The  whilk  day,t  Mr 
Wilson  was  admitted  second  minr.  of  Kirkwall,  with  the  special  advice  and  consent  of  My 
Lord  Bishop,  who  was  patron  thereof."  In  1689,  he  was  appointed  minister  of  the  First 
Charge,  in  succession  to  Mr  Wallace.  By  this  time  Presbyterianism  had  been  established,  but 
Mr  Wilson  remained  a  staunch  prelatist ;  so,  on  Saturday,  25th  October  1690,  "Robert 
Elphinston  caused  Robert  Arskyne  to  make  intimation  to  Mr  John  Wilson,  minister,  that  he 
should  cist  preaching  the  Word,  and  for  so  doing  God  in  his  ain  time  will  visit  him  with 
some  signal  judgment."  J  Mr  Wilson,  however,  kept  his  pulpit  for  some  time  longer,  suffering 
much  annoyance  and  some  indignity  at  the  hands  of  the  local  representative  of  secular 
authority.  "  The  proclamation  for  a  fast  was  proclaimed  by  Lopness,  to  be  published  in  the 
kirk  of  Kirkwall,  without  enquiring  the  consent  of  Mr  Wilsone."  § 

Elphingston^s  object,  apparently,  was  to  show  that  the  Episcopal  clergyman  was  a  dis- 
affected person.  But  "Mr  John  Wilson  went  (5th  Jan.  1691) ||  to  the  house  of  Robert 
Areskine,  clerk  for  the  pnt.  to  Robert  Elphiston  of  Lopness,  now  Stewart  of  Orkney  and 
Zetland,  and  demanded  ane  copy  of  the  Act  of  Assembly  and  Counsell  anent  the  forsds.  fast, 
which  he  would  not  have,  and  protested  in  the  hands  of  Thomas  Brown,  notar  publict,  that 
he  might  be  free  of  all  inconveniency  that  might  follow  yrupon,  in  regard  he  was  ready  to 
comply  wt.  authoritie." 

This  irritating  interference  was  unceasing.  Colonel  Elphingston  stretching  his  authority 
to  the  utmost.  The  minister  of  the  second  charge  obeyed  the  order  of  the  Steward,  and  re- 
signed ;  but,  finding  that  the  petty  tyrant  was  exceeding  his  powers,  he  applied  to  the  PriA^ 
Council,  who  "  rei)oned  him  "  to  his  charge.lT  But  the  struggle  still  continued,  and  Mr  Cobb, 
lacking  the  courage  of  Mr  Wilson,  gave  up  the  contest,  and  retired,  1692.  Four  years  later 
he  was  re-ordained  by  the  Presbytery  of  Glasgow,  and  was  appointed  to  Stronsay  and  Eday, 
Mr  Cobb's  settlement  in  the  Cathedral  by  Bishop  Bruce  had  been  the  last  appointment  in 
♦  S.  R.,  2l8t  Sept.  1689.     t  S.  R. ,  20th  Dec.  1687.     J  T.  B.     §  T.  B.,  18th  Jan.  1691.     ||  S.  R.     IT  Fasti. 


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152  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

Scotland  under  an  established  Episcopacy,  and  in  his  Xorth  Isles'  charge  he  was  the  first 
minister  indacted  in  Orkney  under  the  new  regime. 

As  his  successor  in  the  second  charge,  the  Kirk-Session  and  heritors,  now  bishopless, 
chose  Mr  James  Young,  still  an  Episcopalian. 

In  June  1694,  Mr  Wilson  was  deprived  of  his  charge  by  the  Privy  Council,  and  ceased 
officiating  in  St.  Magnus.  Mr  Young  continued  in  office  till  September  of  that  year,  when  he 
also  was  removed,  and  went  as  chaplain  on  board  one  of  William  and  Mary's  ships  of  war.* 

For  eight  years  Mr  Wilson,  as  a  preacher,  kept  silence— a  silence  which  he  told  the 
Presbytery  was  to  him  worse  than  death.  On  Sunday,  3rd  January  1703,  he  surreptitiously 
entered  the  Cathedral  pulpit,  of  which  he  still  claimed  half,  but  was  forcibly  ejected  by  Mr 
Baikie,  then  high  priest  of  Kirkwall,  ably  assisted  by  his  wife.  On  this  occasion  it  is  evident 
that  Mr  Wilson  made  no  effort  to  hold  the  fort,  or  he  might  have  given  his  assailants  some 
trouble,  and  perha^xs  have  created  a  diversion  in  his  favour  by  an  api)eal  to  the  pews. 
Nothing  could  more  clearly  bring  out  the  meekness  of  Mr  Wilson's  character  than  his  conduct 
in  this  fracas. 

But,  unable  any  longer  to  keep  silence,  he  next  month  oi)ened  his  own  house  to  an 
Episcopalian  congregation,  and  for  a  few  years  this  little  conventicle  was  a  very  prickly 
thorn  in  the  side  of  the  presbytery.  He  left  Kirkwall  before  1707,  for  in  January  of  that 
year  he  had  a  meeting-house  in  Edinburght ;  and,  in  1712,  he  presided  over  a  congregation  in 
Haddington. 

As  a  clergyman,  Mr  Wilson  is  worthy  of  the  admiration  of  all  denominations.  True  to 
his  own  party,  he  was  able  to  give  credit  to  opponents  for  at  least  honesty  of  conviction,  and 
for  working  along  with  his  church  towards  a  common  end.  In  a  i)oetic  effusion,  referring  to 
sectarian  troubles,  he  says  : — 

**  These  contraries  will  last  but  for  a  while  ; 
There  is  a  land  beyond  that  azure  sky 
Where  none  lament,  all  ai-e  in  melody." 

Mr  Wilson's  widow  was  alive  and  in  Kirkwall  in  1721,  an  annuitant  on  the  fund  provided 
by  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church  for  indigent  clergy  and  their  widows.t 

We  incidentally  learn  something  of  the  condition  of  the  Sabay  mansion  in  the  BiU'gh 
Records,  20th  April  1711 :— "  In  obedience  to  ane  Act  of  Parliat.  Lately  come  to  this  Countrey, 
granting  new  Duties  upon  houses  haveing  twentty  windows  or  more,  wee  fynd  the  House  of 
Mr  John  Wilson,  Late  Minister,  hath  twenty-ffyve  windows,  a  pt.  of  which  haveing  yrin 
fiyftein  windows,  is  possest  by  James  ffea  of  Clestren ;  a  pt.  yrof,  haveing  eight  windows, 
standing  waste  ;  and  a  pt  yrof,  haveing  two  windows,  is  possest  by  John  Millar." 

The  next  owner  of  this  house  was  William  Traill,  Town  Treasurer.  Mr  Traill,  a  grand- 
son of  the  first  Thomas  Traill  of  Holland,  was  a  prosperous  merchant  and  a  thoroughly 
representative  burgh  official  of  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

The  business  of  the  town  was  as  well  done  then  as  it  is  now.  The  work  of  the  Council, 
and  especially  of  the  Magistrates,  was  much  harder  and  vastly  more  responsible  then  than 
at  the  present  day. 

The  Provost,  or,  as  he  is  designated  in  the  old  records,  the  Lord  Provost,  and  Bailies 
were  constantly  called  upon  to  decide  cases  which  would  nowadays  certainly  go  to  the  Court 
of  Session,  and  their  equity  was  seldom  impugned.  Yet  the  Council's  transactions,  read  by 
the  light  of  the  Treasurer's  accounts,  are  more  like  the  records  of  a  convivial  club  than  the 
minutes  of  a  municipal  corporation. 

•  Fasti.  t  Fasti.  t  Craven's  Ep  Ch.  in  Ork.,  pp.  44  and  45. 


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BRIDGE  STREET,   EAST  SIDE.  153 

Business,  however,  went  pleasantly ;  there  were  full  attendances  at  the  weekly  Council 
board ;  and  when  special  business  called  for  evening  committees,  it  was  always  a  case  of 
"  happy  to  meet." 

It  is  perhaps  somewhat  in  keeping  with  what  we  know  of  Treasurer  Traill's  warm-hearted 
character  that  we  find  the  following  entry  in  the  Session  records*  :— 

*'  After  prayer,  William  Traill,  called,  compeared,  and  being  asked  if  he  was  the  father  of  Ann 
Sabist-on's  child,  wt.  whom  he  was  now  contracted,  acknowledged  he  was  the  father  of  her  child  ; 
beins  exhorted,  was  appointed  to  make  satisfaction,  conforme  to  the  order  of  the  Church  ;  promised 
obecuence,  and  craved  that,  in  regard  he  was  contracted  in  order  to  marriage  wt.  the  said  Ann,  they 
might  be  absolved  upon  their  first  public  appearance ;  he  being  removed,  the  Session  thought  it 
reasonable,  upon  the  account  of  their  oeing  to  be  married  shortlie,  as  foresaid,  to  «'ant  the  request  of 
their  being  absolved  upon  their  first  appearance,  if  they  be  found  penitent,  and  appoints  them  to- 
appear  publicklie  next  Lord's  day  before  the  congregation  ;  and  he  being  called  in,  gave,  iii  pios  usus, 
to  the  bees,  a  guinea.'' 

In  those  days,  a  man  who  came  with  a  guinea  in  his  hand  generally  made  a  better  bargain 
than  Traill  did,  but  evidently  the  rebuke  from  the  pulpit  had  no  terrors  for  him.  He  was 
married  within  a  fortnight  of  his  censure. 

A  glance  at  Treasurer  Traill's  disbursements  shows  the  jovial  manner  in  which  the  work 
of  the  Burgh  was  conducted  in  the  brave  days  of  old.  The  municipal  year  began  on  the  29th 
of  September ;  and,  in  1731,  the  expenditure  from  that  time  till  the  end  of  December  is  given 
below : — 

Sept.  29th. — By  9  bottles  Rum,  6  bottles  Clearet,  3  bottles  brandie,  3  Mutchings  lime 
Joyce,  two  pound  Eight  unce  Suggar,  &  Six  Bisket,  Given  the  Magis- 

trats  A;  Councell  the  Election  day — all  is 

By  40  pints  ale  &  4  bottles  brandie,  given  the  Deacons  &  treads  said  day 

— all  is 

Oct.     6th. — By  two  bottles  white  wine  &  ane  bottle  of  Brandie,  to  the   Magistrats 

when  they  made  William  Johnston  burges  

By  six  bottles  Rum,  ane  bottle  brandy,  1  pd.  12  once  Suggar  to  them,  with 
a  choping  lime  Joyce  &  2  bottles  wnite  wine,  when  Windbreck  was 

made  Purges — all  is      

9th. — By  cash    given    John    &  Thomas  Stewarts,   conforme  to  the   Provost's 

warrand 

15th. — By  a  bottle  brandy  to  the  Magistrates  the  day  Baillie  Fea  came  to  present 

Clestran's  letters,  is      ...  

16th. — By  31  bottles  Rum  punch,  one  bottle  Clearet,  &  one  pynt  ale,  when  Mr 

Gillon  &  Collector  Drummond  were  made  Bursesses        ..  

Nov.  19th. — By  a  bottle  brandy  to  the  Magistrats  &  Councell  the  day  Foulis't  letter 

was  read 

20th. — By  13  bottles  Rum  punch,  5  bottles  white  wine,  8  ounce  Suffgar,  ane  bottle 
Brandy,  and  3  pints  milk,  to  the  Magistrats,  to  treat  Mr  Hay  when  he 

came  home  from  the  Convention  of  Burrows — all  is         

By  cash  to  the  officers,  on  Baillie  Geo.  Traill's  warrand  

Dec.   17th. — By  ane  bottle  brandy,  to  the  Magistrats  &  Councell,  when  Stenes  &  Cha. 

Grame  was  sent  for  to  Councell         

18th. — By  cash  to  the  officers,  on  Baillie  Geo.  liddell's  warrand       

By  32  Bottles  Rum  punch,  4  bottles  white  wine,  6  unce  Suggar,  &  3  pints 
milk,  to  the  M!agistrats  the  day  Stenes,  Charles  Gneme,  &  Hans 
Heilman  were  made  burgesses  12    9    0 

Six  "  Bisket "  is  the  amount  of  solid  food  which  accompanied  all  this  liquor. 
There  are  two  interesting  entries  in  the  next  year's  accounts  : — 

March  2nd. — By  8  bottles  Rum  punch,  to  the  Magistrates  and  Coimcell,  when  they  gott 

Sir  James  Sinclair's  obligation  for  his  tolbooth  meallst £2    8    0 

April    3rd. — By  a  bottle  brandy,  to  give  Sir  James  Sinclair  of  May  &  the  Magistrats  in 

Hugh  Gyer's  house       0  12    0 

•  23rd  Aug.  1711.  t  Colonel  Monro  of  Foulis,  M.P.  t  Dues. 


£15    6 

0 

6    8 

0 

1  16 

0 

8    6 

0 

2    8 

0 

0  12 

0 

10    0 

0 

0  12 

0 

8     1 
1  10 

0 
0 

0  12 
0  12 

0 
0 

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154  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   OUKNKVS. 

Hugh  Oyer  was  Town  Clerk  at  this  time,  and  the  Magistrates  had  taken  Sir  James 
•Sinclair  out  of  prison  to  eiyoy  an  evening's  sociality  in  a  private  dwelling. 
The  entry  under  2nd  March  1732  refers  to  this  :— 

**Sir  James  Sinclair  of  Mey,  Bart.,  grants  obligation  to  the  Mafistrats  of  Kirkwall  and  their 
Oaoler,  for  Tolbootb  Meils,  from  the  24  Au^^ust  1723  to  24  Febr.  this  Instant,  Year  1732,  the  sum  of 
£1051  5s  Scots  of  Gaol  Fees,  at  lOs  Scots  per  diem,  for  my  extraor()in&ry  accommid^tion  within  the 
Tolbooth  of  Kirkwall,  use  of  the  Council  Room  there,  with  diverse  easements  for  £1095  Scots  thereof, 
my  Bills,  dated  31  Dec.  1729,  drawn  upon  Patrick  Dunbar  of  Bowermadden,  1st  and  2nd,  {»ayable  to 
Tlobert  Kaa,  Treasurer  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  for  my  gaol  fees,  from  24  Augt.  1723  to  24  Augt. 
1729,  inclusive,  were  protested  for  non-acceptance.  Therefore,  but  any  prejudice  to  the  foresaid 
Bills,  I  bind  and  oblige  myself,  my  Heirs,  etc.,  not  only  to  pay  to  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  or 
Assignees  the  foresaid  sum  of  £1095  Scots,  but  also  £456  5s  Scots,  as  mv  gaol  fees  from  said  24th  day 
of  Aufc^ust  1729  to  24  Feb.  this  iust.,  year  1732,  extending  both  the  said  sums  to  the  sum  of  £1551  5s, 
4ind  that  betwixt  this  and  the  Term  of  Lambas  next,  with  the  sum  of  £310  Scots  of  Liq.  Expenses,  in 
case  of  failure  with  ^  rent  from  this  date  till  paid.' 

In  the  case  of  Sir  James  Sinclair  of  Mey,  the  sins  of  the  fathers  were  visited  on  the  son. 
His  grandfather,  Sir  William,  had  burdened  his  estates  very  heavily,  and  in  this  condition  left 
them  to  posterity.  Sir  James,  the  father  of  our  prisoner,  could  do  nothing  to  relieve  them, 
And  in  1694,  by  order  of  the  Court  of  Session,  they  were  put  up  to  roup.  Only  the  Ross-shire 
prop)erty  sold — Cadboll  and  others — and  Sir  James's  cousin,  the  Earl  of  Cromarty,  com- 
I>Ounded  with  the  creditors  for  Mey  by  paying  £1000  stg.  to  clear  off  their  claims  on  the 
land.  For  this,  however,  he  held  a  bond  over  the  property,  which,  thus  burdened,  came  to  Sir 
James  of  the  Tolbooth.  Beginning  life  in  an  utterly  impecunious  condition,  and  inheriting 
the  extravagant  tastes  of  his  family,  he  added  to  his  troubles  by  marrying  the  tocherless 
daughter  of  Lord  Duffus,  a  lady  of  expensive  habits,  by  whom  he  had  four  children.  In  1719, 
he  borrowed  £6300  Scots  from  Sir  Patrick  Dunbar  of  Bowermadden,  who,  at  the  same  time, 
bought  the  Earl  of  Cromarty's  bond  of  £1000  stg.,  with  accumulated  interest.  On  the  23rd 
August  1723,  Sinclair  and  Dunbar  signed  an  agreement  in  Kirkwall  as  to  repayment,  and  the 
day  following,  poor  Sir  James  entered  the  Tolbooth,  to  remain  till  his  death,  fifteen  yeai-s 
afterwards. 

But  the  author  of  "  Ye  Towne  of  Wick  in  ye  Oldene  Tymes  "  throws  a  lurid  light  upon 
the  prisoner  in  Kirkwall  jail  :— "  In  1721,  the  sister  of  the  Laird  of  Stirkoke  was  pregnant  to 
the  Laird  of  Mey,  a  married  man  ;  and  the  minister,  fearing  designs  against  the  child,  called 
a  si)ecial  meeting  of  the  Session  in  order  to  take  her  judicial  confession.  It  came  out  that  the 
Laird  had  provided  a  nurse  to  attend  her,  and  also  a  man-servant  to  carry  off  the  child  as 
soon  as  it  was  born.  The  nurse  was  ordered  out  of  the  parish  ;  and  when  search  was  made 
for  the  man,  it  was  found  that  he  had  taken  flight  to  Orkney,  The  Laird  was  also  discovered 
in  another  county  in  close  custody  for  debt." 

For  six  long  years  after  this  evening  in  Hugh  Oyer's  house,  Sir  James  remained  a 
prisoner  in  Kirkwall  Tolbooth,  his  bills  still  unpaid.     On  16th  September  1738,  his  son  and 
successor.  Sir  James  Sinclair  of  Mey,  took  on  himself  the  obligation  granted  by  the  deceased 
prisoner,  "  my  said  father  being  now  dead,  and  his 
corps  decently  taken  care  of,  from  the  26th  March  last 
to  this  day,  within  the  Tolbooth  of  Kirkwall." 

The    Corporation    of    Kirkwall    found    constant  f    JJ ^f^'*\ 

occasion  for  conviviality,  and  Treasurer  Traill  records 
their  bouts  with  the  most  circumstantial  honesty. 
After  the  election  of  1732,  "34  bottles  Rum  Punch, 

10  bottles  white  wine,  and  a  bottle  of  Brandy  "  were  consumed  by  the  Council  at  a  cost  of 
£17  16s  6d,  while  the  Deacons  and  Trades  were  allowed  £7  lis,  and  the  officers,  £1  lOs. 


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BRIDGE   STREET,  EAST  SIDE.  155 

Then  there  was  "a  bottle  brandy  to  the  Magistrats  and  Councell  the  first  day  the 
provost  met  after  he  was  choisen." 

As  already  seen,  the  festive  gathering  was  sometimes  held  in  a  private  house. 

"  By  cash,  paid  Baillie  Fea's  wife  for  wine  drunk  by  the  Magistrats  when  they  made  Sir 
James  Stewart  and  Clestran  burgesses,  £28  4s." 

"  By  cash,  paid  David  Strang  for  honny  and  aquavitey  drunk  by  the  Magistrats,  con- 
forme  to  warrand,  £1  68." 

"  By  4  bottles  wine  to  the  Magistrats,  which  was  drunk  in  Donald  Groat's  house,  £4  Ss." 

That  such  lavish  expenditure  could  be  tolerated  is  at  first  sight  surprising,  but  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  accounts  were  not  published,  that  the  people  looked  on  it  as  use  and 
wont,  and  that  in  those  days  the  Council  contributed  the  bulk  of  the  rates. 

The  CounciFs  liquor  bill  for  less  than  three  months,  29th  September  to  18th  December, 
came  to  £48  12s  Scots.  This  is  only  £5  14s  4d  stg.,  but  in  those  days  a  pound  Scots  could 
go  farther  in  the  purchase  of  exciseable  liquors  than  a  pound  sterling  can  now.  Take,  for 
instance,  the  following  entry  in  Treasurer  TrailFs  accounts : — "  34  bottles  rum  punch,  10 
bottles  white  wine,  and  a  bottle  of  brandy— all  for  £17  168  6d  Scots"— £1  9s  8.}d  sterling. 

The  keeping  of  the  Burgh  accounts  was  more  troublesome  then  than  now,  and  there  was- 
no  remuneration  for  the  work.  It  was  not  till  December  1838  that  the  Council  saw  fit  to 
grant  the  inadequate  sum  now  attached  to  the  office,  which  is  simply  a  recognition  of  service,, 
ot  a  salary. 

After  passing  through  several  hands,  Samuel  Laing's  among  others,  the  mansion  of  the 
Irvings  of  Sabay  was,  in  1837,  sold  by  Thomas  Smith,  Laing's  factor,  to  Thomas  Flett,  junior^ 
vintner,  in  whose  family  it  still  remains.  The  sign  of  the  hostelry  then  established  waa  an 
anchor,  and  the  passage  from  the  street  to  the  back  court  of  this  house  is  still  popularly  known 
as  the  "  Anchor  Close." 

The  tenement  south  of  Sabay^s  land  had  been  in  early  times  a  stately  dwelling.  It  was 
the  town  house  of  the  Sinclairs  of  Brugh,  and  from  the  description  it  would  appear  to  have 
.  been  a  square  enclosing  a  court  overlooked  by  a  balcony. 

In  1677,  it  was  already  in  a  ruinous  condition.  "  John  Kennedie  of  Stroma  hath  the 
fabrick  or  ludgeing  called  the  gallerie,  sometyme  pertaining  to  the  Sinclairs  of  Brugh,  sua 
much  as  is  habitable  yrof,  p'ntlie  possest  by  John  Johnstone,  betwixt  the  king's  hie  street  on 
the  west,  the  loan  towards  St.  Catherine's  quoyis  on  the  east,  the  great  ludgeing  pertaining  to 
the  Sabays  on  the  north,  and  the  ruinous  land  pertaining  to  Arthur  Sinclair's  air  on  the 
south." 

The  Kennedies  were  hereditary  constables  of  Aberdeen  for  more  than  two  centuries, 
dating  from  1413,  and  held  extensive  lands  in  that  county.  In  1652,  an  unfortunate  dispute 
arose  between  John  Kennedy  of  Carmunck  and  a  neighbour,  Forbes  of  Waterton.  The 
tenantry  on  both  sides  took  up  the  quarrel,  and  Forbes  was  killed.  Kennedy  then  sold  his 
house  and  lands  in  Aberdeen,  came  north  to  Caithness,  and,  in  1659,  got  from  the  Earl  of 
Caithness  a  wadset  of  Stroma,  which  became  the  principal  residence  of  the  family.  The 
"  Gallery  "  was  held  by  John  of  Carmunck  on  a  charter  from  the  Town  Council.  In  Kirkwall, 
Kennedy  soon  came  to  be  a  trusted  public  man.  In  1677,  Arthur  Baikie  of  Tankemess  and 
John  Kennedy  of  Carmunck  were  appointed  arbiters  in  a  division  of  the  estate  of  Halcro 
between  the  two  daughters  of  Hugh  Halcro  of  that  ilk — Jean,  who  married  Alexander  Mowat 
of  Swinzie,  and  Sibilla,  wife  of  James  Baikie  of  Burness. 

In  1678,  John  Kennedy,  yr.  of  Carmunck,  married  Jean,  eldest  daughter  of  Bishop 
M'Kenzie.  Some  of  their  descendants  are  still  to  be  found  in  the  South  Isles,  particularly  in 
South  Ronaldshay,  where  they  had  property. 


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1S6  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  traditions  in  Stroma  as  to  the  arrival  of  the  Kennedies  and  their  final  departure  are 
somewhat  remarkable. 

Among  a  community  which  regarded  a  house  as  sufficiently  furnished  if  it  contained  a 
couple  of  box  beds,  a  table,  and  some  '*  creepies,"  the  amount  of  carefully  packed  household 
stuff  brought  by  the  new-comers  caused  much  astonishment. 

The  sti-angers  were  at  once  set  down  as  pirates,  bringing  the  spoils  of  many  years  to  the 
lonely  island  for  the  secrecy  and  security  they  could  not  find  elsewhere. 

Even  when  they  came  to  be  recognised  as  reasonably  honest,  they  were  still  regarded  as  a 
peculiar  people.  Instead  of  going  to  a  decent  grave  when  they  died,  and  being  buried  out  of 
sight  like  other  folk,  they  must  needs  build  a  tomb  for  themselves,  that  their  dust  might  not 
mingle  with  the  common  clay.  Of  this  mausoleum,  Pope,  minister  of  Reay,  writes  :— "  In  this 
island  there  is  a  vault  built  by  one  Kennedy  of  Carmunks.  The  coffins  are  laid  on  stools 
above  the  ground  ;  but  the  vaults  being  on  the  sea  edge,  and  the  rapid  tides  of  the  Pentland 
running  by  it,  there  is  such  a  saltish  air  continually  as  has  converted  the  bodies  into  mum- 
mies— inasmuch,  that  Murdo  Kennedy  is  said  to  have  beat  the  drum  on  his  father's  belly."  * 

In  1721,  William  Sinclair  of  Freswick  acquired  Stroma,  and  to  this  day  the  islanders  are 
deal*  as  to  the  nature  of  the  transaction. 

William  Sinclair,  with  a  document  ready  prepared,  having  a  tracing  of  the  last  deceased 
Kennedy's  signature  appended,  went  with  two  witnesses  to  the  burial  vault.  Putting  a  pen 
into  the  dead  man's  hand,  Sinclair  guided  it  over  the  tracing  on  the  deed. 

Sinclair's  two  friends  conscientiously  witnessed  the  signature,  and  Stroma  became  the 
property  of  the  Laird  of  Freswick. 

To  complete  the  tradition,  it  is  stated  that  one  of  the  witnesses,  after  years  of  remorse, 
finding  his  life  utterly  unendurable,  committed  suicide,  and  the  other  on  his  deathbed  told  the 
ugly  story. 

Kennedy  sold  the  Gallery  to  David  Drummond,  one  of  the  Bailies  of  Kirkwall,  and 
.  Christian  Graham,  his  spouse.  In  1683,  Drummond  granted  liferent  of  this  house  to  his 
second  wife,  Janet  Forbes. 

In  the  days  of  Drummond's  magistracy,  the  town  had  a  difficulty  with  that  troublesome 
person,  Captain  Andrew  Dick,  Chamberlain  of  the  Stewartry ;  and,  3rd  February  1681,  "  David 
Drummond,  Baillie,  and  David  Craigie,  Provost,  took  the  journey  from  Kirkwall  to  Edin- 
burgh, ujion  ye  complaint  given  in  bi  Capt.  Dick  against  them  before  the  Privy  Counsall, 
their  day  of  compearance  being  24th  Feb.  1681."  + 

It  is  satisfactory  to  know  that  Dick  was  expelled  from  Orkney  shortly  afterwards. 

From  David  Drummond  the  Gallery  passed  to  George  Drummond  of  Blair-Drummond 
and  his  wife,  Marjorie  Graham.  The  Drummonds  were  Perthshire  men,  and  probably  came 
north  with  Bishop  Graham,  who  was  very  clever  in  providing  for  those  of  his  household. 

George  Drummond,  having  money  at  command,  increased  his  wealth  in  the  usual  easy 
manner.  In  March  1650,  we  find  him  and  Marjorie  Graham  lending  money  to  Mudie  of 
Snelsetter. 

In  1707,  the  Gallery  was  in  possession  of  James  Burdon  of  Feddell,  another  Perthshire 
man,  who  had  married  Mary  Drummond. 

In  1718,  the  old  house  was  bought  by  James  Traill,  writer,  Edinburgh,  who  the  same  year 
purchased  Woodwick  and  North  Eonaldshay.  He  had  married  Margaret,  daughter  of  John 
Traill  of  Elsness,  and  when,  in  1730,  he  retired  from  business,  he  rebuilt  the  Gallery,  and 
settled  down  in  Kirkwall. 

The  feu-duty  was  £5  16s  8d  Scots,  "with  the  service  of  the  Burgh,  used  and  wont,  by 

♦  Calder.  t  T.  B. 


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BRIDGE  STREET,   EAST  SIDE. 


157 


Scotting,  Lotting,  Taxing,  Stenting,  Watching,  and  Warding  with  other9  the  inhabitants  and 
neighbours  within  the  samen,  conform  to  the  practice  and  custom  of  the  samen  Burgh." 

Mr  Traill  entered  the  Council,  September  1730,  and  was  made  Provost  the  same  year. 

In  the  conduct  of  municipal  business,  as  shown  by  the  Burgh  Records,  the  Traills  have  far 
outnumbered  any  other  family  name.  Indeed,  there  were  sometimes  so  many  of  them  in  the 
Council  that  it  became  difficult  to  bring  out  their  several  identities  in  recording  the  sederunts. 
The  Traills  upon  this  Council  were  :  — "  James  Traill  of  Woodwick,  Provost ;  Patrick  Traill, 
Bailie  ;  William  Traill,  Dean-of-Guild  ;  William  Traill,  Thesaurer  ;  and  William  Traill, 
brother  to  Woodwick." 

Sharing  the  fate  of  all  unsalaried  servants  of  the  community,  the  Traills  experienced  the 
ups  and  downs  of  public  favom*.    A  local  rhymster  records  a  time  of  unpopularity  : — 

**  Traills  up  the  town,  Traills  down  the  town,  Traills  in  the  ipiddle  ; 
De'il  tak^  the  Traills*  guts  for  strings  to  his  fiddle." 

At  the  back  of  his  house,  Mr  Traill  planted  trees  and  made  a  large  garden.  This  garden 
was  for  about  a  century  the  finest  in  our  islands.  His  trees,  being  sheltered,  grew  to  be  the 
best  in  Orkney,  but  the  exigen- 
cies of  commerce  have  caused 
their  removal.  He  erected  a 
little  summer  house  of  undrest 
stones.  A  mere  glance  shows 
that  these  do  not  belong  to  the 
neighbourhood. 

It  was  now  just  five  years 
since  the  capture  of  Gow  the 
Pirate,  and  it  was  Mr  Traill's 
whim  to  procure  some  of  the 
ballast  of  Gow's  ship,  the  "  Re- 
venge" ;  so,  with  consent  of  the 
Xiaird  of  Eday,  he  had  them 
brought   from  the    Calfj  Holm. 


Lintel  over  Front  Door  of  Gallery. 


They  are  still  preserved  by  the  present  proprietor  of  the  Gallery. 

Mr  Traill  was  an  excellent  business  man,  and,  though  retired  from  professional  work, 
engaged  actively  in  commercial  dealings  with  the  Continent,  especially  with  Holland  and 
Norway. 

A  letter,  bearing  slightly  on  the  building  of  his  house,  may  be  given  here  : — 

"  18th  April  1730. 
"  To  Mr  Thomas  Bell. 

**  Sir, — I  desire  the  favour,  if  you  goe  to  Holland  this  summer,  you'll  buy  and  brin^  home  with 
you,  for  my  wife,  the  following  particulars,  viz.  : — half  piece  of  Hollands  for  Shifts,  26  LUs,  at  24  or 
25  Styvers  per  ell ;  6  pound  weight  of  Bohea  tea,  at  3  Guilders  or  thereabout ;  2  pound  unspun 
cutton,  half  a  pound  g«x)d  cinnamon,  one  hundred  weight  good  head  lint,  and  two  iron  potts,  one  of 
20  pynts  and  tne  other  of  12  pynts  ;  and  if  you  do  not  Goe  yourself,  you'll  commission  tne  above  for 
me  to  be  brought  home  along  with  your  own  goods.  I  herewith  deliver  you  E^;ht  Guineas  of  Gold 
for  purchasing  the  same,  and  if  they  arise  to  more  or  less,  we  shall  cleir  at  meeting.  Wishing  you  a 
safe  voyage  and  a  happy  return, — I  ever  am,  Dear  Sir,  your  obliged  Comrad  and  Humble  Servt., 

(Signed)        Jas.  Tkaill. 
"  Sir, — You'll  please  further  to  brins  home  in  your  ship,  for  my  own  use,  six  wanscott  planks  of 
2  in.  thick,  and  six  of  1 J  in.,  being  for  wmdow  casements  ;  this  is  the  commission  I  mostly  regard. 

Ja.  Traill." 

Like  a  ladjr's  letter,  the  postscript  is  the  most  important  part. 


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158  KIRKWALL   IN  XHE  ORKNEYS. 

James  Traill  died,  1733.  His  only  son  had  long  predeceased  him,  and  now  the  Gallery 
passed  to  a  nephew,  John,  son  of  George  Traill  of  Westness  and  Margaret  Ballenden  of 
Stenness.  John  Traill  married  Mary,  daughter  of  John  Balfour  of  Trenaby.  He  wrought 
great  changes  on  his  uncle's  house,  probably  built  the  wingfi,  and  certainly  put  up  the  lint«l 
over  the  front  door,  on  which  he  recorded  the  date  of  his  alterations,  1763. 

One  of  the  Westness  Traills,  William,  married,  1789,  Mary,  eldest  daughter  of  Sir  George 
Colebrook,  Baronet,  and  widow  of  Count  Adrien  de  Peyron.  Their  son,  George  William 
Traill,  entered  the  Indian  Civil  Service. 

A  biography  of  Brian  Hodgson,*  who  joined  the  service  as  Traill's  assistant,  gives  much 
insight  into  the  character  of  the  senior  : — 

**  Few  influences  exercise  a  more  permanent  effect  on  a  young  Indian  civilian  than  the  character 
and  conduct  of  the  first  officer  under  whom  he  serves.  The  new-comer's  standards  of  work  and  his  con- 
ceptions of  duty  to  the  people  around  him  receive  an  impress  at  starting  which  is  seldom  afterwards 
efiaced." 

This  held  especially  true  "  eighty  years  ago,  when  civilians  joined  their  first  appointment 
as  mere  lads." 

"  A  working  District  Officer  turned  out  a  series  of  working  assistants  ;  a  sporting  District  Officer 
made  sportins  assistants  ;  a  District  Officer  with  a  taste  for  revenue  administration  trained  the  men  who 
were  destined  to  conduct  the  land-settlement  of  provinces  ;  while  a  District  Officer  who  did  what  was 
right  in  his  own  eyes,  with  as  little  regard  as  possible  to  the  central  control,  produced  a  useful,  stub- 
bom  breed,  who  were  prepared  to  fight  for  their  own  measures,  or  mistakes,  against  all  the  authority 
of  district  Secretariats  and  Boards. 

**  Brian  Hodgson  was  fortunate  in  his  first  master.  George  William  Traill,  then  Commissioner  of 
Kumaun,  formed  one  of  the  group  of  strong-handed  administrators  whom  Lord  Hastings'  conquests 
developed.  * 

'*  It  was  a  time  that  called  forth  strong  men.  Lord  Hastings  had  remade  the  map  of  India,  and 
he  needed  civilians  with  courage  and  independence  of  resource,  to  convert  his  disorderly  conquests 
into  peaceful  British  provinces.  Among  these  administrators  of  the  transition  stage,  Traill  occupied  a 
foremost  place.  One  of  the  first  fruits  of  the  Haileybury  system.t  he  arrived  in  India  in  1810,  and, 
after  five  years'  service,  was  appointed,  in  1815,  assistant  to  the  Honourable  E.  Gardener,  the  political 
officer  with  the  Nepal  expedition.  In  1816,  Gardener  was  promoted  to  be  first  Resident  at  the 
Court  of  Nepal,  and  Traill  succeeded  him  as  Commissioner  of  Kumaun. 

**  George  William  Traill  looked  upon  Kumaun  as  a  principality  of  his  own,  to  which  he  had  suc- 
ceeded by  conquest.  He  had  been  on  the  spot  when  it  had  been  taken  over  from  its  previous  rulers. 
During  twenty  years,  one  Governor-General  after  another  let  him  have  his  own  way,  for  on  the  whole 
it  was  a  way  of  righteousness  ;  and  he  set  an  example  of  personal  government  to  succeeding  Commis- 
sioners of  Kumaun  which  was  only  broken  down  in  our  own  day.  The  Governor-General  mi^ht  be 
ruler  of  India,  but  Traill  was  *  King  of  Kumaun.'  The  stamp  of  personal  independence  which  he 
gave  to  its  a<iministration  survived  for  seventy  years,  and  its  last  great  Commissioner,  General 
Kamsay,  was  still  known  as  '  King  of  Kumaun,'  even  under  strong  Viceroys  like  Lord  Mayo  and  Lord 
Northbrook.  Traill  ruled  absolutely  till  1835,  and  he  trained  up  successive  assistants  in  the  habit  of 
thinking  that  a  frontier  administrator  knew  what  was  good  for  his  tenitory  much  better  than  any 
distant  central  authorities. 

**  Traill  spoke  and  wrote  the  local  language,  dispensed  with  all  formalities,  settled  cases  in  court 
like  the  father  of  a  family,  and  encouraged  every  one  who  had  a  complaint  to  put  it  in  writing  and 
drop  it  into  a  slit  in  the  court  door,  of  which  he  kept  the  key.  Answered  niva  voce^  in  court  or  out. 
He  was  of  active  habits,  and  went  everywhere  throughout  the  province,  hearing  and  seeing  all  for 
himself.     His  cheerful,  simple  manners  and  liking  for  the  people  made  him  justly  popular." 

In  1823,  Traill  published  a  Report  on  Kumaun,  which  was  re-published  in  1851  by  order 
of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  North- Western  Province. 

He  retired  from  the  service  in  1836,  and,  returning  home  with  ample  means,  purchased 
Wyre  and  Rousay,  except  a  small  portion  which  was  not  in  the  market.    He  died  unmarried, 

*  '*  Life  of  Brian  Houghton  Hodgson,  British  Resident  at  the  Court  of  Nepal,"  by  Sir  William 
Wilson  Hunter,  K.C.S.L,  M.A.,  LL.D.,  &c.,  &c. 
t  Entered  Haileybury,  1808. 


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BRIDGK  STREET,   EAST  SIDE.  159 

1847,  leaving  his  property  to  Lieutenant-General  F.  W.  Traill  Burroughs,  whose  mother  waa 
daughter  of  Chev.  de  Peyron  and  Mary  Colebrook. 

General  Burroughs  entered  the  army  as  a  youth,  and  did  heroic  service  in  the  Crimean 
War  and  in  the  Indian  Mutiny,  service  which  has  not  been  sufficiently  recognised.  It  cannot 
but  be  galling  to  the  man  who  entered  by  the  breach  and  opened  the  gates  to  see  comrades 
who  entered  by  the  door  wearing  the  Victoria  Cross,  while  the  hero  who  admitted  them 
remains  undecorated.  The  story  of  the  storming  of  the  Sikandarbagh,  by  Colonel  W.  Gordon 
Alexander,*  places  General  Burrouglis'  work  in  a  true  and  proper  light : — "  Burroughs,  my 
Captain,  would  stand  up  close  to  the  edge  of  the  bank,  behind  which,  as  it  had  a  gentle  slope, 
the  rest  of  No.  6  Company  obtained  some  shelter  ;  but  he  drew  a  continuous  fire  by  that 
manoeuvre,  not  only  on  himself,  but  on  all  in  his  neighbourhood,  for  as  I  was  kneeling  a  little 
to  his  right  rear,  I  was  in  a  position  to  judge,  and  kept  on  telling  him  so.  As  I  afterwards 
discovered,  Burroughs  had  made  up  his  mind  to  be  first  in,  when  we  began  to  see  that  the 
breach  was  being  driven  through  that  face  of  the  south-east  bastion  exactly  opposite  where 
we  were.  As  he  persisted  in  standing  up  and  I  continued  to  remonstrate,  he  waxed  very 
short-tempered,  and  so  did  I.  When  Burroughs  and  I  saw  the  hole  getting  slowly  practicable, 
we  kept  watching  Sir  Colin  and  Colonel  Ewart  for  the  signal  to  storm.  When  the  signal  was 
given  Bun-oughs  had  only  to  jump  down  on  to  the  level  ground,  whilst  I  had  to  rise  off"  one 
knee,  and  the  rest  of  No.  6  Company,  being  all  stretched  out  on  their  faces,  took  a  little 
longer  to  rise.  Burroughs  thus  got  a  start  of  a  dozen  yards.  On  reaching  the  hole  he  had  bent 
his  head  and  actually  succeeded  in  jumping  in,  knocking  his  feather  bonnet  oflf  in  performing 
this  harlequin's  feat.  Private  Dunlay  and  two,  or  perhaps  three,  more  men  of  No.  6  Company 
were  pushed  up  aft«r  Burroughs.  Colonel  Ewart  now  came  up,  and  I  and  a  private  gave  him 
a  leg  in,  for,  with  the  exception  of  Burroughs,  every  one  was  helped  in.    I  followed  Ewart." 

Captain  Burroughs,  with  his  followers,  opened  the  gates  for  the  army  to  enter ;  but  he 
was  severely  wounded,  and  though  he  was  recommended  for  the  Victoria  Cross,  he  never  got 
it.  Colonel  Gordon  Alexander  adds  : — "  I  do  not  believe  that  there  was  another  officer  there 
who  could  have  performed  the  same  feat ;  where  such  a  leap  merely  knocked  off  Burroughs' 
bonnet,  either  Cooper  or  I  would  have  knocked  out  our  brains  had  we  tried  it." 

Mary  Traill,  of  the  Westness  family,  married  Dr  Keith  Spence,  and  went  with  him  to 
America.  Their  daughter  Harriet  married  the  Rev.  Charles  Lowell,  and  was  the  mother  of 
James  Russell  Lowell,  American  Ambassador  in  England,  and  author  of  the  "  Biglow  Papers." 

After  serving  the  Traills  as  a  town  house  for  more  than  a  century,  the  old  Gallery  was 
converted  into  an  hotel ;  and  though  the  rooms  were  small  and  the  conveniences  limited,  it 
was  a  huge  improvement  upon  any  hostelry  that  Kirkwall  had  previously  possessed.  In 
189(),  with  extensive  additions,  it  was  turned  into  business  premises  by  its  present  proprietor, 
Mr  Robert  Garden. 

The  site  to  the  south  of  the  Gallery,  now  the  property  of  Mr  William  Slater,  wine 
merchant,  belonged,  in  1677,  to  "  Margai-et  Cromartie,  relict  of  umql.  George  Coupar,  smyth, 
ane  great  pairt  yiof  is  without  roof,  the  rest,  under  a  sclaitt  roof,  is  possest  be  hir  selfe." 

George  Cooper  was  dead  in  1678,  and  Patrick  Traill  of  Elsness  purchased  from  the  widow 
some  part  of  the  stock  of  the  late  smith,  as  the  following  extract  from  the  skipper's  note-book 
shows : — "  August  the  16,  1678.— Item,  bought  from  Margret  Cromartie,  in  Kirkwall,  nyn 
moskets.  Item,  3  Stokes,  and  ane  littell  barrall  off  ane  gon  ;  paid  to  her  for  them  twall  pond 
scottes  ;  thay  ar  lying  in  my  ouper  Lafft." 

Margaret  Cromartie's  property  passed  through  several  hands,  and  in  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century  it  had  fallen  into  the  possession  of  the  Town  Council,  from  which  body  it  was 

*  Recollections  of  a  Highland  Subaltern. 


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160 


KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 


purchased  in  1818  by  Patrick  Gorie  and  Elizabeth  Drever,  his  spouse.  It  is  described  as 
"  that  piece  of  ground  and  houses  lately  built  thereon,  being  part  of  the  Poor  House  yard 
betwixt  the  Poor  House  and  the  property  belonging  to  Wm.  Traill,  Esq.  of  Wood  wick.'' 

In  1677,  the  southern  boundary  of  this  property  is  given  as  St.  Ola's  church  and  church- 
yard, which  had  formerly  occupied  the  whole  space  between  the  "  Qallerie  "  and  the  Bridge. 

The  church  was  built  by  Rognwald  Brusison  in  honour  of  his  uncle,  Olaf  the  Holy,  killed 
at  the  battle  of  iSticklastadt,  1030.    It  was  the  first  Christian  church  erected  in  the  little  town 

after  the  Norse  occupation  of  the  islands, 
and  it  is  only  after  Rognwald's  building 
was  put  up  that  the  name  Kirkwall  ap- 
pejirs  in  history. 

Near  the  little  Pictish  hamlet  there 
had  been,  before  the  Norse  immigration, 
a  Culdee  chapel,  and  it  is  just  possible 
that  on  this  ancient  site  Brusison  built 
his  church.  Be  that  as  it  may,  taking 
the  date  of  the  building  as  somewhere 
about  1040,  we  have  here  the  oldest  site 
and  the  oldest  erection  in  Kirkwall  of 
which  a  definite  history  exists,  and  this 
history  has  now  been  continuous  for 
eight  centuries  and  a-half. 

After  it  had  been  for  a  hundred  years 
the  only  church  in  town,  Rognwald  11. 
began  the  building  of  the  Cathedral.  St. 
Olafs  was  possibly  a  wooden  structure, 
now  falling  into  disrepair ;  and  this  would 
give  point  to  Rognwald's  vow  to  "  build  a 
stone  minster  at  Kirkwall  in  the  Orkneys^ 
It  was  to  St.  Olafs  that  the  exhumed  coffin 
of  St.  Miignus  was  brought  till  the  new 
building  was  ready  to  receive  it.  In  this 
church  Bishop  William  the  Old  officiated, 
and  from  this  church,  in  solemn  proces- 
sion, priests,  warriors,  and  villagers  fol- 
lowed the  sainted  remains  of  the  murdered 
Earl  to  their  resting-place  in  the  magnifi- 
cent pile  dedicated  to  his  memory. 

It  can  readily  be  seen  that  two  such 
temples  as  St.  Olafs  and  St.  Magnus'  were  beyond  the  requirements  of  Kirkwall  at  that  time, 
and  accordingly,  by  the  rule  of  the  survival  of  the  fittest,  the  former  was  doomed  to  decay. 
In  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  it  was  restored  by  Bishop  Reid  in  view  of  his 
contemplated  extension  of  the  Cathedral. 

But  before  1677,  St.  Olaf  was  again  a  ruin.  On  the  15th  October  of  that  year,  the  Session 
"  ordain  to  summon  Jean  Covingtrie  for  alleged  scandalous  conversing  with  John  Dunbar,  a 
souldier,  she  being  seen  in  St.  Ola's  Kirk  with  him  after  eight  hors  at  night." 

*  This  doorway  was  taken  down,  stone  by  stone,  and  rebuilt  in  its  present  position  by  Mr  John 
Reid  when  he  bought  the  property. 


Doorway  of  old  St.  Olafs.* 


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BRIDGE  STREET,  EAST  SIDE. 


161 


1 


*•  The  witnesses,  viz.,  Anna  Johnston,  Robert  Murray,  Kirk  bedall ;  and  Thomas  Disching- 
toun,  Session  Clerk,  being  examined,  declared  that  they  saw  the  said  Jean  and  John  in  the 
old  kirk  after  eight  hors  at  night,  in  a  private  comer  thereof,  but  knew  not  what  they  were 
doing  there  at  such  a  tym  of  night.'' 

Again  the  old  church  was  repaired  and  turned  to  account,  this  time  as  a  poorhouse.  It 
might  seem  surprising  that,  in  the  seventeenth  century,  Kirkwall  should  be  possessed  of  such 
an  institution  ;  but,  truth  to  tell,  neither  the 
Magistrates  nor  the  people  wanted  it ;  they 
had  it  forced  upon  them  by  an  Act  of  Parlia- 
ment, which  they  passively  resisted  for  at 
least  five  years. 

"  The  King's  Majesty,*  considering  the 
many  good  Laws  and  Statutes  made  by 
himself  and  his  Royal  Predecessors  for  sup- 
pressing of  Vagabonds,  Beggars,  (ind  Idle 
persons,  who  are  a  great  burden  and  reproach 
to  the  kingdom  ;  and  considering  that  the 
effect  of  all  these  good  Laws  has  been  f  rus- 
trat,  because  there  has  been  no  place  pro- 
vided wherein  such  poor  people  might  be 
set  to  work :  For  remeed  whareof.  His 
Majesty,  with  advice  and  consent  of  His 
Estates  of  Parliament,  Statutes  and  Ordains 
that  the  Magistrates  of  the  Burghs  follow- 
ing, betwixt  and  the  term  of  Whitsunday 
next,  1673,  provide  Correction-houses  for 
receiving  and  entertaining  of  the  Beggars, 
Vagabonds,  and  Idle  persons  within  their 
Burghs,  and  such  as  shall  be  sent  to  them 
out  of  the  Shires  and  Bounds  after-speci- 
fied." Then  follows  a  list  of  thirty-two 
burghs,  beginning  with  "  Edinburgh^  for  the 
Town  and  Shire  of  Edinhurgk^^^  and  ending 
with  "  Kirkwall^  for  Shire  of  Orkney  and 
Zetland:' 

But  1677  still  saw  Kirkwall  without  the  poorhouse,  which  should  have  been  opened 
before  Whitsunday  1673. 

Perhaps  the  Magistrates  continued  to  evade  the  law  by  making  use  of  a  clause  in  the 
Act  which  provided  for  aged  and  infirm  paupers,  "  that  they  give  them  a  Badge  or  Ticket  to 
ask  almes  at  the  dwelling  hoases  of  the  Inhabitants  of  their  own  Paroch  only,  without  the 
bounds  of  which  they  are  not  to  beg." 


Aumbrie  of  old  St.  Olaf's,  now  in  St. 
Episcopal  Church. 


Ola's 


**  The  qnliilk  day,t  forsameikle  as  it  is  complained  upon  and  regrated  by  divers  and  simdrie 
inhabitants  within  this  Incorporation,  that  there  are  many  vafi;abond8  and  beggars  increasing  in  this 
said  place,  both  from  the  landwart  parrochs  and  Isles,  as  also  from  other  countries,  quhairby  the 
place  is  mightily  oppressed  :  Therefore,  and  in  remeid  thereof,  the  said  magistrates  and  councillors 
present  hath  ordained  ane  roll  of  the  toun's  poor  to  be  taken  up  and  ane  badge  grantit  thame  of  lead. 


•  Charles  II.,  4th  Sept.  1672. 


t  C.  R.,  26th  June  1674. 


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162  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

stamped  with  the  toun's  arms,  which  is  ane  schipp,  with  the  toun's  motto,  and  none  be  allowed  or 
tollerated  to  remain  or  reside  within  the  said  toun  except  those  quha  shall  have  the  said  bad^e  ;  and 
for  the  better  obtempering  heirof,  it  is  appointit  that  James  Laugh  ton,  bellman,  goe  through  the  toun 
and  putt  out  all  those  quha  have  not  the  said  badge." 

The  Kirkwall  bailies  evidently  regarded  all  paupers  as  "aged  and  infirm,''  and  hoped 
to  save  the  expense  of  a  house  by  a  liberal  distribution  of  badges. 

Under  this  Act  of  the  "  Merrie  Monarch,"  the  pauper's  lot  was  not  a  happy  one.  The 
authorities  were  to  see  "  that  they  do  not  at  all  resort  to  Kirks,  Mercats,  or  any  other  place 

where  there  are  meetings,  at  Marriages,  Baptisms, 
Burials,  (»r  upon  any  other  publick  occasion." 

Any  one  who  chose  could  have  a  young  pauper 
as  a  servant,  free  of  wages.  Indeed,  the  Act  of  1672 
estaMished  a  species  of  slavery  in  Scotland  which 
lasted  down  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century. 
"  It  is  always  hereby  provided  that  it  shall  be  lawful 
to  Coal-Masters,  Salt-Masters,  and  others  who  have 
Manufacturies  in  this  kingdom,  to  seize  upon  any 
Vagabonds  or  Beggars,  wherever  they  can  find  them, 
and  put  them  to  work  in  their  coal-heughs  or  other 
Manufacturies,  who  are  to  have  the  same  power  of 
correcting  them  and  the  benefit  of  their  work  as  the 
Masters  of  the  Correction  Houses." 

Under  this  sanction,  sturdy  beggars  were  hunted, 
Beggar's  Badge.  seized,  and  sent  under  ground  for  life.     They  were 

subjected  to  whatever  treatment  was  considered 
necessary  to  preserve  subordination.  Picked  up  in  a  similar  manner,  wives  were  provided 
for  these  unfortunates,  and  the  children  born  in  serfdom  succeeded  their  parents  in  the  pits. 
They  changed  ownership  as  the  works  passed  from  one  proprietor  to  another  by  inheritance  or 
purchase. 

To  sell  a  man  for  cash  might  not  have  been  tolerated,  but  a  case  is  on  record  where  a 
miner,  having  been  recognised  as  translated  from  one  county  to  another,  explained  that  his 
new  master,  on  a  visit  to  the  auld  place,  took  a  notion  to  him,  and  so  "  he  was  kniffered  awa' 
for  a  powny"— a  good  man  bartered  for  an  indifferent  horse. 

It  was  given  to  the  Commissioners  of  Excise  to  see  poorhoases  established,  and  they  had 
the  power  to  inflict  a  smart  punishment  for  delay.  **  In  case  the  magistrates  of  the  saids 
Burghs,  or  any  of  them,  shall  not  provide  and  have  in  readiness  the  saids  Correction -ho  uses 
betwixt  and  the  said  term  of  Whitsunday  next,  they  shall  incur  the  pain  and  penaltie  ofjtve 
hundred  merks  Scots  money,  and  that  quarterly  until  the  Correction -houses  be  provided." 

Though  for  some  years  the  Kirkwall  Magistrates  succeeded  in  evading  the  law  and 
in  escaping  the  fine,  they  were  at  last  brought  to  book,  and  Rognwald  Brusison's  church, 
rebuilt  by  Bishop  Reid,  was  transmogrified  into  a  workhouse. 

This  statutory  demand  was  also  met :— "  Each  of  which  houses  shall  have  a  large  Closs, 
sufficiently  enclosed  for  keeping  in  the  said  poor  people,  that  they  be  not  necessitat  to  be  ■ 
alwayes  within  doors,  to  the  hurt  or  hazard  of  their  health." 

For  nearly  a  century  St.  Olafs  had  been  nominally  a  poorhouse,  when  the  Magistrates 
thought  fit  to  let  it  as  business  premises  to  William  Groat,  who  renewed  his  tack,  18th  March 
1767,  at  a  yearly  rent  of  £8  10s  stg.  Their  next  tenant  was  Mr  James  Erskine,  and  from  him 
we  learn  its  condition  : — 


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RUIDGE  STREET,   EAST  SIDE.  163 

"  Kirkwall,  5th  June  1783. 

**  Unto  the  Honble.  The  Provost  ami  Town  Council  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  The  Petition  of 
James  Erskine,  Merchant  in  Kirkwall, 

"  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  your  Petitr.,  having  taken  a  Tack  of  the  Poorhouse  of  Kirkwiill,  with 
the  Yard  and  pertinents  belonging  thereto,  and  having  pos9esse<l  said  house  for  the  space  of  two  yeara, 
he  6nds  it  will  be  impossible  to  continue  in  it  another  year  upon  account  of  the  insufficiency  of  the- 
Roof,  and  the  Walls  oeing  so  Open  that  in  a  VVindie  I^ight  it  will  blaw  out  Candles  going  past  it, 
and  in  the  Roof  it  is  so  Open  in  many  parts  that  by  every  Shuer  of  Rain  the  water  comes  in  upou  hia 
eoods,  by  which  means  he  has  already  lost  severall  valuable  articles  ;  He  is  therefore  under  the 
Necessity  of  applying  to  your  Hours.,  Craving  that  you  may  appoint  proper  persons  to  Inspect  and 
Return  you  a  Report  of  sd.  house,  so  as  you  may  know  the  necessary  repairs  it  will  take  to  put  the 
same  in  a  Tenantable  Condition. 

**  May  it  therefore  please  your  Honrs.  to  consider  this  petition,  and  upon  finding  what  is  above 
set  forth  to  be  true,  to  appoint  proper  persons  to  inspect  said  House  and  Ordain  such  Repairs  to  b® 
made  as  is  necessary  to  put  the  same  in  a  Tenautable  Condition,  before  the  season  of  the  year  Elapses. 
And  your  Petitr.  shall  ever  Pray.  (Signed)        Jameh  Erskine. 

To  his  petition  be  added  a  letter,  same  date,  which  shows  the  state  of  the  Puorhouse 
Close : — 

"  Kirkwall,  5  Jime  1783. 

**  Gentlemen, — Being  some  days  aso  Informed  by  some  of  the  Magistrates  that  I  aru  not  at  liberty 
to  put  a  Gate  upon  the  Poorhou«e  Yard  without  liberty  being  first  asked  and  granted  by  the  Council — 
In  this  I  therefore  ask  it  as  a  favour  that  you  allow  me  to  fix  a  Ribed  Gate  or  Door  at  the  Entry  from 
the  Street  to  the  Poorhs.  Yard,  and  another  at  the  lane,  with  a  Tirlie  for  the  conveniency  of  foot 
passengers,  either  of  which  may  be  opened  at  pleasure  for  the  use  of  Carts,  etc.,  and  will  likewise 
serve  to  prevent  Cattle  passing  that  way,  which  m  the  Winter  time  makes  the  Entry  to  the  Poorhouse 
allmost  impassible.  I  would  also  beg  leave  to  mention  that  part  of  the  Poorhouse  Yard  facing  out  by 
the  Pump  Well,  as  it  is  of  very  little  Service  to  the  Yard,  and  Intercepts  the  view  throw  the  Street 
to  the  Shore  ;  if  it's  agreeable  to  yon,  I  will  take  it  away  upon  my  Own  Expence,  and  big  the  Dike 
up  again  upon  a  square  with  the  well.  Your  complyance  herin  will  particularly  oblige, — Gentlm.^ 
your  mo.  Oot.  Servt.,  "  (Signed)        Jamks  Erskine." 

Mr  Erskine's  reason  for  shutting  out  cattle,  that  they  made  the  entry  to  his  warehouse 
impassible,  can  easily  be  understood.  In  those  days  almost  every  well-to-do  household  in 
Kirkwall  had  a  cow.  The  whole  herd  of  down-the-gate  kye  were  grazed  on  the  East  Hill. 
When  the  beasts  were  driven  home  at  night,  each  animal,  as  soon  as  it  came  to  town,  took 
the  shortest  cut  to  its  bjrre  ;  and  so  all  those  belonging  to  Mr  Er.skine's  neighbours,  up  street 
and  down,  would  come  his  way.  His  petition  plainly  shows  that  the  passage  was  unpaved^ 
and  in  wet  weather  would  certainly  be  deep  in  mud.  His  proposal  was  a  liberal  one,  to  put  a 
gate  at  each  end,  that  might  be  opened  for  the  ptissage  of  carts,  but  shut  against  the  tranipling^ 
of  cattle,  with  turnstiles  for  the  convenience  of  foot  passengers.  And  in  this  light  the  Council 
viewed  it : — 

**  Kirkwall,  6th  June  1783. — The  Magistrates  and  Council,  having  Considered  a  Letter  from 
James  Erskine,  Mercht.,  of  date  the  fifth  Instant,  and  Addressed  to  them,  Craving  a  Liberty  of 
putting  up.  doors  or  Gates  at  the  Entry  to  the  Poorhouse  Yard,  pos-sessed  by  him,  from  the  street, 
and  in  the  passage  of  said  yard  from  the  East  Loan,  between  St.  Catherine's  Quoy  and  Mr  Dishing- 
ton's  Kaillyard,  in  manner  mentioned  in  said  Letter,  They  Find  That  these  passages  or  Entrys  are 
Commontys  and  previledges  belonging  to  the  CommonU'  in  Generall,  and  that  therefore  thev  Cannot 
be  shut  up  or  appropriate  to  any  particular  purpose  :  But  as  the  request  by  James  Erekine  Can  be  of 
no  loss  or  detriment  to  the  said  Community,  and  as  the  Council  understands  from  whence  the  severall 
Libertys  and  requests  in  said  Letter  proceed.  They  authorize  him  to  put  a  Riblnsd  Door  or  Gate  upon 
the  passage  next  the  Street,  with  a  Latchet  or  Sneck  to  Open  ana  fasten  it  at  pleasure,  so  as  the 
Community  may  pass  and  Repass  at  all  reasonable  Hours  on  foot  or  with  Carts  and  Carriages  ;  And 
Also  Authorize  him  to  make  another  Gate  and  door  at  the  above  passage,  facing  the  said  Loan,  with 
a  Sneck  to  Open  it  as  Occasion  requires,  for  the  Benefit  of  Carts  and  Carriages  to  pass  and  repass ; 
As  Also  to  make  a  Tirlie  on  said  passage  for  the  Conveniency  of  foot  passengers,  as  all  are  mentioned 
in  said  Letter.  But  with  the  Express  Provision  that  all  the  Gates  and  Doors  be  made  and  finished  at 
the  sight  of  the  Dean-of-Guild  and  his  Council,  and  that  at  the  Expiration  of  the  said  James  Erskine's 
Tack,  these  Gates  and  Doors  and  Tirlies  shall  remain  entire  ana  in  the  said  Condition  they  are  at 


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164  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

the  said  Period,  for  the  Behoof  and  ConveDiency  of  the  Lieges,  and  he  is  not  to  be  at  the  Liberty  of 
Altering  or  Deinolishiug  any  part  of  them  during  his  Tack  or  when  it  Expires  :  And  the  Magistrates 
&nd  Council  having  considered  the  request  of  Mr  Erskine's  Letter  in  the  end  of  it,  of  Removing  that 
part  of  the  Poorhouse  Yard  between  Westness  property  and  the  Pnmp  Well  which  Jetts  out  towards 
the  Street,  they  are  of  Opinion  That  the  Removal  of  said  Earth  may  be  of  Service  to  the  Com- 
munity, as  well  as  to  Mr  Erskine  in  particular.  They  therefore  allow  him  to  carr^'  oflf  said  piece  of 
Oround  till  it  Comes  with  the  Line  of  said  Well,  and  then  to  build  a  ^Straight  Wall  of  Stone  Betwixt 
Westness'  said  property  and  the  said  Pump  Well,  the  outmest  side  of  said  new  Wall  next  the  street 
beinc  upon  a  Straight  Tjine  with  the  south  side  of  said  Pump  Well  next  said  Street ;  And  That  this 
WorK  is  to  be  tinished  and  Carried  on  at  the  sight  of  the  Dean-of-Guild  and  his  Council  also  ;  And 
Ordain  these  presents,  with  the  Letter  on  which  it  proceeds,  to  be  recorded  among  the  Sederunts  of 
the  Council.  (Signed)        John  Riddocii." 

A  house,  now  the  property  of  the  U.P.  Church  by  bequest  of  Mr  John  Reid,  wood 
merchant,  was  built  upon  the  part  of  the  poorhouse  yard  which  Mr  Erskine  had  levelled  ;  and 
while  the  pump  has  disappeared,  perhaps  beyond  the  memory  of  living  men,  the  well  remains 
covered  by  the  pavement  at  the  north-west  corner  of  this  house. 

In  1818,  the  yard  to  the  east  of  the  poorhouse  was  feued  in  two  portions,  the  part  nearest 
the  house  to  James  Allan,  mason,  and  the  other  half  to  William  Laught<m,  blacksmith.  To 
utilise  his  feu,  Laughton  required  to  borrow,  and  he  got  £100  from  the  Incorporation  of 
Hammermen. 

From  St.  Olaf  s  Church  to  the  Burn  of  Pabdale  had  been  part  of  the  churchyard.  When 
Mr  Erskine  got  permission  to  put  up  his  gates  and  tirlies,  the  south  wall  of  the  Poorhouse 
"Close  was  the  north  boundary  of  Mr  Dishington's  kail-yard.  This  large  space,  the  greater  part 
of  the  old  Burgh  burial  ground,  was  in  the  days  of  the  early  Dishingtons  unbuilt  upon, 
■except  that  there  was,  on  the  south  side  of  it,  a  double  tenement,  having  its  south-west  corner  at 
the  Bridge.  But  such  an  extent  of  street  frontage  was  too  valuable  to  be  left  unoccupied.  In 
1812,  Robert  Scott,  Deacon  of  the  Incorporation  of  Tailors,  bought  from  the  Town  Council 
^*all  and  whole  that  ruinous  house  or  Tenement  called  the  Shed,  with  the  small  piece  of 
ground  or  yard  thereto  belonging,  having  the  Poorhouse  Close  north."  The  ruinous  house 
had  in  the  days  of  its  prosperity  been  an  inn.  The  "  Shed  "  was  rebuilt  by  Mr  Scott,  and  is 
now  occupied  as  business  premises  by  Provo.^t  Spence. 

The  small  house  on  the  south  end  of  this  has  its  site  on  a  bit  of  the  closo  which  separated 
the  *'  Shed  "  from  the  house  next  the  Bridge. 

In  1660,  the  house  (it  the  corner,  now  Mr  Maxwell's  shop,  was  occupied  by  a  man  who 
had  the  knack  of  attracting  public  notice  wherever  he  went.  The  Rev.  Patrick  Waterstouu, 
A.M.,  minister  of  Rousay  and  Egilshay,  was,  in  1645,  translated  to  Stronsay  and  Eday,  the 
Earl  of  Morton  rleeming  him  worthy  of  a  better  stipend  than  his  former  charge  allowed  him. 
He  kept  this  living  for  fifteen  years,  till,  in  1660,  he  was  depo.sed  by  a  committee  of  the 
Presbytery  "  for  contempt,  separating  from  the  Church,  and  often  deserting  his  charge."*  He 
came  to  Kirkwall,  and  lived  from  March  to  August  in  the  house  under  consideration,  when  he 
was  removed  to  the  Tolbooth  **for  treasonable  speeches  against  his  Majesty  and  many  of  his 
progenitors  ;  and  on  a  complaint  from  the  Commissioners  of  Trade  to  Parliament,  they  gave 
authority,  2oth  January  1661,  for  his  being  carried  to  Edinburgh."  In  the  words  of  the  Act, 
he  is  **to  be  sent  south  from  Sheriff  to  Sheriff,  till  he  reaches  Edinburgh,  there  to  be  in- 
carcerate." t  After  getting  out  of  prison,  Mr  Waterstoun  went  to  Holland,  where  he  died, 
1662. 

From  the  above,  we  can  easily  perceive  the  inspiration  of  his  treasonable  speeches.  He 
was  a  Cromwellian,  opposed  to  the  Restoration  of  the  Stuarts,  and  he  sought  refuge  in  a 
country  entirely  in  sympathy  with  his  principles  and  preaching. 

*  Fasti.  t  Acts  vii.,  App.,  5. 


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BRIDGK  STREET,   EAST  SIDE.  165 

The  first  of  the  Dishingtons  in  Kirkwall  was  John,  Sheriflf  of  Orkney  and  Zetland,  whose 
house  was  "  Gk)ckhall/'  near  the  Shore. 

In  1595,  the  SheriflF's  son,  Andrew,  was  appointed  master  of  the  Grammar  School.  In 
1599,  he  became  minister  of  Stromness  ;  in  1601,  he  was  translated  to  Rousay  and  Egilshay, 
and,  about  1613,  to  Walls  and  Flotta.  .  He  left  a  son,  John,  who  was  served  heir,  1644.  * 

In  1648,  John  Dishington  was  appointed  master  of  the  Grammar  School,  an  ofiice  which 
he  held  till  his  death  in  1681. 

John's  brother,  Thomas,  was  the  first  of  the  Dishingtons  who  occupied  the  house  at  the 
Bridge,  which  he  acquired  under  a  wadset  from  William  Pottinger.  The  boundaries  in  1677 
were  the  running  water  south,  St  Ola's  kirk  and  yard  north,  common  passage  to  St.  Catherine's 
Quoys  east,  the  Bridge  west. 

Thomas  Dishington  was  precentor  and  Session  Clerk  for  many  years,  and  as  such  he  was 
called  upon  to  do  occasional  odds  and  ends  of  congregational  business. 

"  The  Session t  taking  to  their  consideration  the  desolate  estate  of  this  congregation  for 
want  of  a  minister,  and  feiring  that  the  people  will  wander  abroad  on  the  Sabbath  day: 
Therefore  they  ordain  Thomas  Dishington  to  reid  the  prayers  ilk  Sabbath  night  until  it  please 
God  they  get  a  minister,  for  which  they  promised  to  satisfie  him."  J 

"  The  Thesaurer  is  ordained  to  acquyt  and  discharge  Thomas  Dischingtoune,  Clerk,  of  his 
wife's  kirklayr.  and  bells,  in  compensation  for  his  paines  in  keeping  a  register  hitherto  of  all 
persones  who  dies,  Ordaining  him  also  to  keep  and  perfect  ane  exact  compt.  of  the  samen  for 
the  future,  Together  with  ane  accompt.  of  what  bells,  great  and  small,  shal  be  rung  for  everie 
persone,  and  to  give  ane  accompt  therof  once  in  the  yeir,  and  the  said  Thomas  is  to  refer  his 
pains  to  the  Session  for  the  future."  § 

We  have  abundant  proof  that  he  was  universally  respected  in  town  :—  "  Ther  was  no 
Session,  because  God  hath  removed  Thomas  Dishington  from  this  lyfe  to  a  better."  || 

Another  occupant  of  this  house,  Thomas  Dishington,  was,  in  1730,  master  of  the 
Grammar  School. 

In  1803,  Catherine  Dishington,  only  lawful  daughter  of  the  deceased  Lieutenant  Andrew 
Dishington,  R.N.,  eldest  son  and  heir  to  Andrew  Dishington,  shipmaster  in  Kirkwall,  eldest 
son  and  heir  of  Thomas  Dishington,  sometime  schoolmaster  there,  was  served  heiress  to  her 
great-grandfather.  Catherine  died  soon  afterwards,  and  her  estate  went  to  her  relative, 
Robert  Dishington,  barber  and  wigmaker. 

But  wigmaking  in  Kirkwall  was  now,  through  the  fluctuations  of  fashion,  no  longer  the 
lucrative  business  it  had  been,  and,  in  1808,  Robert  raised  money  by  selling  to  John  Guthrie, 
Wright,  the  east  end  of  the  kail-yard,  37  feet  north  and  south  by  22  feet  east  and  west.  About 
the  same  time  he  got  an  advance  from  John  Traill  of  Westove,  and  granted  a  bond  over  his 
house,  and  in  1826  the  property  was  sold  on  behalf  of  Mr  Traill's  grandson. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  the  Dishington  family  was  Andrew,  who,  in  1768,  was 
appointed  assistant  to  the  Rev.  Robert  Tytler,  minister  of  Stronsay  and  Eday.  The  same 
year  he  was  recommended  for  Lady  parish,  but  unfortunately  it  came  to  the  ears  of  the  fathers 
and  brethren  that  he  had  made  an  irregular  marriage,  for  which  they  had  to  deal  with  him. 

Having  acknowledged  his  fault,  "the  Presb.  were  of  opinion  that  to  proceed  to  the 
highest  censure  would  be  a  punishment  too  severe,  while  suspension  for  a  limited  time  would 
not  serve  any  good  end  ;  considering  his  situation  as  an  assistant  minister,  they  unanimously 
agreed,  therefore,  that  be  should  be  sharply  rebuked  by  the  Moderator,  which  was  done 
accordingly,  and  the  case  dismissed." 

♦  Fasti.  t  S.  R.,  7th  Mar.  1668.        t  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  60. 

§  S.  R.,  14th  April  1670.  i!  S.  R.,  2nd  June  1682. 


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166  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

In  1778,  on  the  solicitation  of  Sir  Hew  Dalrymple,  who  had -.heard  him  preach  in  Edin- 
burgh, he  was  presented  by  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas  to  the  parish  of  Mid  Yell.  After  receiving 
the  presentation,  he  had  no  means  of  forwarding  it  to  the  Presbytery  of  Burravoe,  as  it  was 
now  the  depth  of  winter.  Just  then,  most  remarkably,  the  Shetland  packet  from  Leith, 
through  stress  of  weather,  put  into  Papa  Sound  on  the  way  north,  and  the  document  was 
transmitted.  "A  packet  is  despatched  for  Shetland  (from  Leith)  on  the  first  Wednesday 
of  February,  April,  June,  Augt.,  October,  and  December,  and  the  returns  generally  arrive 
about  the  eighth  or  tenth  of  the  intervening  months  ;  postage,  6d."  * 

In  1804,  Dishington  was  translated  to  Stronsay,  where  he  died,  1819. 

Dalrymple*s  appeal  on  Dishington's  behalf  is  a  curiosity  in  its  way. 

Letter  of  Sir  Hew  Dalrymple  to  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas. 

"Dalzell,  May  24,  1775. 

**  Dear  Sir, — Haviii£  8{>ent  a  long  life  in  pursuit  of  pleasure  and  health,  I  am  now  retired  from 
the  world  iu  poverty  and  with  the  gout ;  so,  joining  with  Solomon  that  *  all  is  vanity  and  vexation  of 
spirit/  I  go  to  church  and  say  nfiy  prayers. 

* '  I  assure  you  that  most  of  us  religious  people  reap  some  satisfaction  in  hoping  that  you.  wealthy 
voluptuaries  have  a  fair  chance  of  being  damned  to  all  eternity  ;  and  that  Dives  shall  call  out  for  a 
drop  of  water  to  Lazarus,  one  drop  of  which  he  seldom  tasted  when  he  had  the  twelve  Apostles  in  his 
cellar,  t 

"  Now,  sir,  that  doctrine  being  laid  down,  I  wish  to  give  you,  my  friend,  a  loophole  to  creep 
through.  Going  to  church  last  Sunday,  as  usual,  I  saw  an  unknovm  face  in  the  pulpit,  and  rising  up 
to  prayers,  as  others  do  upon  like  occasions,  I  began  to  look  around  the  church  to  find  out  if  there 
were  any  pretty  girls  there,  when  my  attention  was  attracted  by  the  foreign  accent  of  the  parson.  I 
gave  him  my  attention,  and  had  my  devotion  awakened  by  the  most  pathetic  prayer  I  ever  heard. 
This  made  me  all  attention  to  the  sermon ;  a  finer  discourse  never  came  from  the  lips  of  a  man.  I 
returned  in  the  afternoon  and  heard  the  same  preacher  exceed  his  morning  work  by  the  finest  chain 
of  reasoning  conveyed  by  the  most  eloquent  expressions.  I  immediately  thought  of  what  Agrippa 
said  to  Paul— *  Almost  thou  persuadest  me  to  be  a  christian,'  I  sent  "to  ask  the  man  of  God  to 
honour  my  roof  and  dine  with  me.  I  asked  him  of  his  country,  and  what  not ;  I  even  asked  him  if 
his  sermons  were  his  own  composition,  which  he  affirmed  they  were  ;  1  assured  him  I  believed  it,  for 
never  man  had  spoken  or  wrote  so  well.  *  My  name  is  Dishington,'  said  he,  '  I  am  an  assistant  to  an 
old  minister  in  the  Orkneys  who  enjoys  a  fruitful  benefice  of  £50  a  year,  out  of  which  I  am  allowed 
£20  for  preaching  and  instructing  1,200  people  who  live  in  two  separate  islands  ;  out  of  which  I  pay 
£1  5s  to  the  boatman  who  transports  me  from  the  one  to  the  other.  I  should  be  happy  could  I  con- 
tinue in  that  terrestial  paradise,  but  we  have  a  great  Lord  who  has  many  little  people  soliciting  him 
for  many  little  things  that  he  can  do  and  that  he  cannot  do,  and  if  my  minister  dies  his  succession  is 
too  great  a  prize  not  to  raise  up  man}'  powerful  rivals  to  baulk  my  hopes  of  preferment.' 

"  I  asked  him  if  he  possessed  any  other  wealth.  *  Yes,'  said  he,  *  I  married  the  prettiest  girl  in 
the  island ;  she  has  blessed  me  with  three  children,  and  as  we  are  both  young  we  may  expect  more. 
Besides,  I  am  so  beloved  in  the  island  that  I  have  all  my  peats  brought  home  carriage  free. 

**  This  is  my  story — now  to  the  prayer  of  my  petition.  I  never  before  envied  you  the  possession 
of  the  Orkneys,  which  I  now  do  cmly  to  provide  for  this  eloquent,  innocent  apostle.  The  sun  has 
refused  your  barren  isles  his  kindly  influence — do  not  deprive  them  of  so  pleasant  a  preacher  ;  let  not 
00  great  a  treasure  be  for  ever  lost  to  that  damned  inhospitable  country,  for  I  assure  you  were  the 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury  to  hear  him,  or  hear  of  him,  he  would  not  do  less  than  make  him  an  arch- 
deacon.    The  man  has  but  one  weakness,  that  of  preferring  the  Orkneys  to  all  the  earth. 

"  This  way  and  no  other  you  have  a  chance  for  salvation.  Do  this  man  good  and  he  will  pray  for 
you.  This  will  be  a  better  purchase  than  your  Irish  estate  or  the  Orkneys.  I  think  it  will  help  me 
forwanl  too,  since  I  am  the  man  who  told  you  of  the  man  so  worthy  and  deserving,  so  pious,  so 
eloquent,  and  whose  prayers  may  do  so  much  good.  Till  I  hear  from  you  on  this  head,  yours  in  all 
meekness,  love,  and  benevolence,  H.  D. 

"  P.S. — Think  what  an  unspeakable  pleasure  it  will  be  to  look  down  from  heaven  and  see  Rigby, 
Mastertoii,  all  the  Campbells  and  Nabobs  swimming  in  fire  and  brimston  while  you  are  sitting  with 
Whitefield  and  his  old  women,  looking  beautiful,  frisking  and  singing ;  all  which  you  may  have  by 
settling  this  man  after  the  death  of  the  present  incumbent." 

*  Old  Almanac,  lent  by  Professor  Johnston.  t  12  hhds.  of  claret. 


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BRIDGE  STREET,   EAST  SIDE.  167 

In  the  Valuatioo  Roll  of  1677  we  find  that  "Thomas  Grotsetter  hath  ane  pairt  of  ane 
tenement  beyond  the  langntaine  under  ane  theak  roofe.  Francis  Craigie  and  Andro  Langskaill 
hath  the  rest  of  the  said  tenement."  The  **  Lang  Stean  "  was  the  bridge  across  the  Bum  of 
Pabdale,  opposite  the  end  of  the  close  now  known  as  Bridge  Street  Wynd.  It  was  literally  a 
long  stone,  its  ends  resting  on  the  opposite  banks  of  the  bum,  while  it  was  supported  by  two 
small  piers  in  the  bed  of  the  stream.  This  little  bridge  carried  the  bulk  of  the  passenger 
traffic  between  the  town  and  the  East  Hill. 

The  "  tenement  under  ane  theak  roofe  "  was  the  guard  house  of  the  soldiers  doing  sentry 
work  at  Croni well's  Fort.  From  this  a  straight  cut  across  St.  Catherine's  Quoys  and  Weyland 
would  be  covered  in  a  few  minutes  by  the  party  going  on  duty  at  the  Mount.  The  southern 
part  of  the  wedge  which  divides  the  ways  at  the  foot  of  East  Road  is  still  described  in  the 
sasines  as  the  "  Old  Guard  House  yard." 

In  constructing  their  guard  house  the  soldiers  used  the  churchyard  wall  as  their  quarry. 
'  The  Magistrates  present  declared  that  they  were  willing  that  the  churchyard  dyke  should  be 
rebuilt  as  formerlie,  Provyding  that  the  stones  of  the  former  Dyk,  which  were  taken  away  by 
the  Englishes,  wherewith  ther  Back  Guard  and  forts  were  builded,  being  now  in  my  Lord 
Bishope's  possession,  were  restored  for  this  effect."  * 

Dr,  afterwards  Colonel,  Thomas  Balfour  of  Elwick  bought  from  the  Town  Council  "that 
piece  of  waste  ground  lying  at  the  Burn  of  Papdale  between  the  Guard  House  Yard  and  the 
Yard  of  Robert  Dishington."  A  space  of  eighteen  feet  was  to  be  left  for  the  burn,  four  feet 
for  a  ditch  between  thi»  property  and  Dishington's,  and  seven  feet  for  a  road  "  between  said 
waste  ground  and  the  Guard  House  gardpil." 

"  The  Provost,  Robert  Laing,  informed  the  Council  that  in  his  opinion  Dr  Thomas  Balfour 
of  Elwick  had  encroached  upon  the  Road  leading  from  the  Long  Stone  by  the  Dykes  of 
Pabdale,  and  along  the  yard  formerly  belonging  to  Alexander  Grotsetter,  by  laying  earth 
thereupon  and  rendering  the  same  impassable,  and  he  was  also  informed  that  Dr  Balfour 
intends  to  build  a  house  upon  a  part  of  the  said  Road."  f 

Captain  William  Balfour  sold  this  plot  to  George  Robertson,  Congregational  minister,  who 
built  a  house  upon  it.  The  conditions  seem  to  have  been  modified.  Robertson  built  close  up 
to  the  wall  of  the  old  yard,  and  the  road,  or  rather  passage,  from  the  East  Hill  to  the  town 
was  brought  between  his  house  and  Dishington's. 

From  the  Robertsons  this  house  was  bought  by  Samuel  Reid,  merchant,  afterwards  for  a 
long  period  of  years  Provost  of  Kirkwall.  From  him  it  passed  to  John  Bruce,  Surveyor  of 
Taxes,  whose  son,  Dr  John  Bruce,  in  1888  bequeathed  it,  along  with  some  property  in  Ireland, 
to  the  University  of  Edinburgh. 

North  from  this  house,  Nathan  Goldberg,  a  German,  erected  a  large  warehouse,  which  is 
now  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  Salvation  Army. 

It  do0s.not  require  the  memory  of  the  oldest  inhabitant  to  recall  the  open  ^burn  running 
underthe  Lang  Stean,  and,  fifty  years  ago,  Gilbert  Logic,  the  last  of  the  Kirkwall  litsters, 
dyeing  in  its  waters.  After  passing  under  the  long  stone  footway,  the  burn  of  Pabdale 
turned  sharply  to  the  west  and  ran  under  the  Bridge.  Now  neither  burn  nor  bridge  is  to  be 
seen,  the  former  being  covered,  making  the  latter  undistinguishable  from  the  rest  of  the  street. 

The  particular  point  in  the  course  of  the  streamlet  chosen  for  the  erection  of  the  bridge 
shows  the  object  for  which  a  bridge  was  first  put  there.  It  was  erected  at  the  south-west 
corner  of  St.  Olaf  s  churchyard,  so  that  mourners  burying  their  dead  and  worshippers  attend- 
ing service  might  not  be  excluded  from  the  sanctuary  whenever  a  spate  raised  the  waters  of 

*  S.  R.,  12th  Oct.  1674.  t  C.  R.,  10th  April  1790. 


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168 


KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


the  burn  above  the  stepping  stones.  Showing  that  this  was  its  original  object,  it  is,  in  the  old 
records,  usually  styled  "St.  Ola's  Bridge." 

In  the  east  parapet  of  the  old  bridge  was  a  stone  with  the  Burgh  arms  carved  upon  it. 
This  was  preserved  by  P.  S.  Heddle,  Esq.,  late  Town  Clerk,  and  was  afterwards  secured  by 
T.  S.  Peace,  architect,  who  placed  it  in  the  front  of  the  new  Town  Hall. 

The  lower  part  of  the  burn  of  Pabdale,  from  the  Bridge  to  the  Peerie  Sea,  was  known  as 
the  "  Hempow,''  and  Bridge  and  Hempow  form  the  southern  boundary  of  old  Kirkwall.  Any 
house  between  there  and  the  Shore  is  described  in  the  Records  of  Sasine  as  '^  lying  in  that 
part  of  the  town  called  the  Burgh." 


Stone  with  Burgh  Arms,  from  the  old  Bridge. 


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CHAPTER  XII. 

Bridge  to  Long  Gutter. 

/HAT  part  of  Kirkwall  from  the  Bridge  as  far  southward  as  to  include  the  houses  bound- 
^'  ing  the  garden  of  the  Bishop's  Palace  is  known  in  our  Records  of  Sasine  as  the 
"  Midtown,"  above  which  is  the  Laverock. 

But  this  threefold  division  of  the  town  is  comparatively  modem.  When  Rognwald 
Brusison  buUt  his  castle  and  his  church  there  were  no  houses  between  them.  When  James- 
IIL  granted  his  Charter,  1486,  there  was  no  Midtown  ;  that  deed  recognises  only  the  Burgh 
and  the  Laverock,  the  domain  of  the  Church.  From  the  original  position  of  the  old  '^  Cross  ^ 
at  the  north  extreme  of  the  Castle  precincts,  it  seems  probable  that  the  market  established 
under  the  Charter  was  anciently  held  in  the  space  between  the  Castle  and  the  Burgh.  But  as 
population  increased,  the  market  stance  was  required  for  homesteads,  and  gradually  what  is 
now  known  as  Albert  Street  was  built.  This  street  was  divided  into  two  unequal  parts  by  an 
open  runlet,  formerly  known  as  the  Long  Gutter,  starting  from  the  watershed  at  the  head  of 
Laing  Street  and  joining  the  Hempow  at  the  foot  of  Albert  Lane. 

As  far  back  as  our  records  take  us,  the  first  house  above  the  Bridge  on  the  west  side  of 
Albert  Street  belonged  to  Gilbert  Nisbet,  and  after  him,  in  1691,  to  Robert  Alexander,  sailor. 
Excepting  a  long  list  of  proprietors,  it  furnishes  no  history. 

Sometimes  a  house  in  Kirkwall  fell  to  a  son  who  had  settled  abroad  or  in  the  south,  and 
who  could  not  come  north  to  look  after  his  property.  In  such  cases  the  Provost,  or  one  of  the 
BaUies,  might  be  asked  to  sell  it  and  remit  the  price.  This  house  had  such  an  experience  in 
the  present  century.  It  was  inherited  by  James  Kelday,  who  is  designated  "  Wind  musical 
instrument  maker,  St.  Mary's,  Whitechapel,  County  of  Middlesex." 

The  back  portion  of  the  tenement  east  of  the  above  was,  as  late  as  1802,  occupied  by  a 
flaxdresser,  Joseph  Wilkinson. 

The  land  south  of  this,  on  both  sides  of  the  close,  belonged  to  a  family  of  Drummonda 
which,  for  five  generations,  son  succeeding  father,  carried  on  a  weaving  business.  While  they 
themselves  probably  wrought  at  the  loom,  they  trained  apprentices  and  employed  journeymen. 
Two  hundred  years  ago  the  Drummonds  were  the  most  extensive  cloth  makers  in  Kirkwall. 

Then,  and  for  long  afterwards,  cloth-working  was  the  staple  industry  of  the  town.  To 
preserve  the  purity  of  the  streams  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood,  the  fulling  of  the  cloth 
was  done  at  a  distance,  and  the  waulk-mill  of  Kirbister,  in  Orpbir,  cleansed  and  shrank  many 
of  the  webs  of  the  Kirkwall  manufacturei-s. 

Hutcheon,  the  second  of  the  Drummonds,  was  cited  before  the  Session,  5th  July  1686,  for 
sending  his  man  to  Holm  with  a  web  upon  the  Sabbath  day.  He  "  compeared,  12th  July,  and 
positively  declared  that  he  knew  nothing  of  his  man's  going  to  Holm,  and  therefore  desired 
that  the  boy  might  be  examined  whether  or  not  he  knew  of  the  Sabbath  breaking—all  which 
the  boy  denyed,  but  declared  that  he  went  with  Thomas  Hepburn  with  fish  to  his  mother. 

z 


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KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 


The  Session,  considering  their  breach  of  the  Sabbath,  has  ordained  both  of  them,  to  witt, 
Bobert  Grot  and  Thomas  Hepburn,  to  be  whipped." 

Hutcheon  Drummond  sold  the  part  of  his  tenement  next  the  street  to  Hugh  Clouston,  a 
member  of  the  Kirkwall  Town  Council,  and  from  bim  it  was  bought  by  David  Covingtrie, 
1692. 

Covingtrie  granted  liferent  to  his  wife,  Marie  Elphinstone,  with  succession  to  their 
daughters,  Jean  and  Katherine,  *^  of  all  and  haill  the  said  David  his  hall  with  the  little  pantrie 
or  studie  yrin,  Inner  chamber  nizt  thereto,  with  half  of  the  haill  yaird  and  pertinents  thereof, 
and  of  all  and  haill  his  foir  chope  or  foir  booth  now  erected  in  ane  ffyre-house  or  Laigh  hall 
lying  on  the  east  end  of  the  laigh  fire  house  sometyme  possest  by  Agnes  Spence,  relict  of 
John  Drummond,  weaver,  disponed  to  said  David  by  Hugh  Clouston,^  litster.'' 

The  back  part  of  this  tenement  nearest  the  Hempow  was,  in  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century,  owned  and  occupied  by  John  Spence,  flaxdresser,  and  between  him  and  his  brother 
heckler,  Wilkinson,  was  the  smithy  of  John  Folsetter. 

The  close  south  of  the  Drummonds'  property  is  now  known  as  John  White's  Close,  from 
one  of  Kirkwall's  old  worthies  of  recent  years.  For  many  a  day  Mr  White  occupied  a  stool  at 
the  window  of  his  workshop  engaged 
in  shoe  making.  He  was  a  genial 
friend,  unostentatiously  pious,  and 
a  pillar  of  the  United  Presbyterian 
Church. 

South  of  John  White's  Close,  in 
1677,  leaving  space  for  a  kail-yard 
and  peat-brae,  was  the  house  of  the 
Brouns  of  Weyland,  the  last  of  whom 
to  inhabit  it  was  Lieutenant  Broun. 

We  have  a  notice  of  "  ane  Bur- 
gess Bill  granted  be  Thomas  Buch- 
anan, Proveist ;  Thomas  Lentron, 
and  Jon.  Baikie,  Baillies,  to  Leive- 
tennent  Magnus  Broun,  subct.  be 
ym  and  Andro  Ellis,  yr  Clerk,  In 
name  of  the  Counsall,  daitit  18  day 
of  July  1637." 

From  Broun  this  house  passed 
into  possession  of  Sinclair  of  Camp- 
stane.  In  1673,  Edward  Sinclair  of 
Campstane  and  Elizabeth  Wilson, 
his  spouse,  sold  it  to  Mr  James  Wallace  and  Elizabeth  Cuthbert,  his  spouse,  for  1200  merks. 

Mr  Wallace's  property  forms  three  sides  of  a  square,  the  front  doOr,  with  its  very 
hospitable  motto,  facing  the  street,  but  recessed. 

Wallace  graduated  in  Aberdeen,  1659,  and  was  presented  to  Lady  Kirk,  in  Sanday, 
somewhere  about  1666,  from  which  parish  he  was  translated  to  Kirkwall,  16th  November  1672. 

"  Whilk  day  my  Lord  Bishop  of  Orkney  his  presentation.  Collation,  and  Institution  in 
favours  of  Mr  James  Wallace  was  read  and  published  be  David  Forbes,  Nottar  Publick,  in  the 
audience  of  the  Magistrates,  Counsellers,  and  Eldars,  and  some  brethren  of  the  Presbyterie, 
after  which  Mr  John  Gibsone,  having  made  ane  exhortation,  did  admitt  the  forsaid  Mr  James 
Wallace  to  be  minister  at  Kirkwall,  and  delivered  to  him  the  church  bible  and  the  keyes  of 


Doorway  of  House  which  belonged  to  Rev.  J.  Wallace. 


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BBIDQE  TO  WNO  aUTTER.  171 

the  kirk  doore  as  use  is,  and  afterwards  was  received  by  the  hands  of  the  saids  Magistraits^ 
Counsellors,  and  Eldars  of  the  Session."* 

At  a  meeting  of  Session,  on  the  following  week,  "  My  Lord  Bishop  declared  to  the  eldars 
presently  conveined  that  Mr  James  Wallace,  present  minister  at  Kirkwall,  was  to  preach 
twice  ilk  Sabbath,  and  to  catechise 

once  in  the  weik,  viz.,  upon  Wed-                          y^^^^fnr    ^  • 

nesday  weiklie,  besides  other  parts             ^^     /////\^    ILf  /  Oi%^/  .^^ 
of  the  ministerial  function  in  publick         y"^^^    Jc^S^^^^^  /l^^^'^^^C^ 
and  in  private."  /  T /^ ^)^" 

At  the  same  meeting  the  Session    /  y^ — - — '^^  ^  ^^ 

agreed  to  give  him    £24  Scots   for    V^^^^^x^ 
house  rent. 

Mr  Wallace  was  the  last  Episcopal  minister  of  the  Cathedral  who  died  in  office.  His 
successor,  Mr  Wilson,  as  we  have  seen,  was  removed  after  the  establishment  of  Presbyterianisnu 
He  had  been  nearly  two.  yeacs^  minister  in  St.  Magnus  when,  Sunday,  9th  August  1674,  he 
*Mid  intimate  that  the  Sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  to  be  administrate  upon  the 
twenty-third  of  August  instant" 

Next  day  the  Session  met  and  "sent  Thomas  Wilson  of  Hunclett,  James  Baikie  of 
Bumess,  and  John  Caldell  to  My  Lord  Bishop,  to  have  his  Lordship's  advise  anent  the  forme 
of  the  administration  of  the  Sacrament  and  ezpences  of  the  Elements,  Who  reported  that  for 
the  forme  his  lordship  declared  that  he,  with  the  minister,  would  advise  thereon  ;  and  for  the 
ezpences  of  the  Elements  he  advised  them  to  follow  the  practice  of  other  churches,  who  collect 
for  that  eflfect." 

'*  Augt.  14,  pro  re  nata,  Mr  Wallace  and  eldars  being  conveened  for  setling  debates  and 
variances  amongst  the  people  before  the  administration  of  the  Sacrament,  Have  ordained  all 
the  eldars  betwixt  the  head  of  the  tonne  and  castle,  with  the  Clerk  of  the  Session,  to  appease 
all  animosities  in  their  precincts ;  and  Ordains  the  eldars  betwixt  the  Castle  and  the  Shore, 
with  David  Forbes,  to  settle  all  differences  in  tber  bounds,  and  to  give  in  the  names  of  the 
recusants,  and  to  give  in  ther  report  to  the  next  Session.  And  the  Minister  and  eldars  present 
doe  declare  all  persones  who  will  not  be  reconciled  to  be  debarred  from  the  Sacrament." 

At  next  meeting  "  the  eldars  reported  that  they  had  gone  throw  the  toune  and  had  settled 
all  differences  they  knew  or  got  notice  of."  Then  ^  the  Session  recommend  to  the  Magistrates, 
viz.,  Tankemess,  Elsness,  and  baylie  Moncrieff,  to  be  present  on  the  gries  and  other 
convenient  places  of  the  church  for  observing  good  order  to  be  kept  the  tyme  of  serving  the 
tables."  The  preparation  sermon  was  preached  on  Saturday  by  Mr  James  Oraham,  minister  of 
Evie.  The  sermon  before  the  Communion,  known  as  the  action  sermon,  was  preached  by 
the  Bishop,  after  which  "  the  first  three  tables  were  served  by  my  lord  Bishop,  The  second 
thrie  tables  were  served  by  Mr  James  Wallace,  The  third  thrie  wer  served  by  Mr  James 
Graham,  the  fourt  thrie  by  My  Lord  Bishop,  and  the  threttein  by  Mr  James  Wallace.  The 
fourtein  table,  which  was  the  last,  was  served  be  Mr  James  Graham."  "  The  Thanksgiving 
sermon  was  preached  be  Mr  James  Wallace." 

This  was  Mr  Wallace's  first  Communion  in  Kirkwall  and  Bishop  Honyman's  last,  and  it 
shows  how  easy,  as  far  as  forms  were  concerned,  was  the  coming  change. 

Episcopacy  had  been  denuded  of  ritual,  and  was  in  outward  form  identical  with  modem 
Presbyterianism,  so  that  with  the  withdrawal  of  the  bishop  the  revolution  was  accomplished. 

In  the  Session  and  Presbytery  Records  there  is  material  for  a  very  complete  biography  of 
Mr  Wallace  during  the  twenty-two  years  of  his  ministry  in  Orkney.    His  seat  in  church  was 

•S.R.,  12th  July  1686. 


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KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 


lialf  of  the  pew  under  the  stair  leading  to  the  Dick's  Loft.  He  married  Elspet  Cuthbert  and 
had  a  number  of  children,  some  of  whom  predeceased  their  parents. 

"  Whilk  day,  ♦  in  presence  foresaid,  compeared  Master  James  Wallace  and  desyred  that 
the  Session  would  allow  him  that  pairt  of  the  kirk  that  is  immediately  over  anent  that  pillar 
of  the  steeple  which  is  nixt  to  the  quire  toward  the  south,  to  be  a  burial  place  to  his  familie, 
and  libertie  to  erect  a  monument  over  hia  children  that  are  buried  yr,  and  affix  it  to  the  said 
pillar,  which  desyre  the  Session  thought  verie  reasonable,  and  with  on  consent  grantit  the 
jsame."  t 

The  year  following  he  laid  his  wife  beside  their  children. 


Conimunion  Cups  from  Mr  Wallace's  Bequest. 

In  those  days,  when  the  church  exercised  judicial  functions,  not  only  in  ecclesiastical 
matters  but  also  in  the  secular  affairs  of  its  members,  punishing  offenders  with  fine  and 
imprisonment,  a  minister  sometimes  incurred  the  odium  resulting  from  a  strict  discharge  of 
duty.  Mr  Wallace  had  incurred  the  wrath  of  the  arch  villain  of  Kirkwall,  and  on  a  December 
night,  1681,  "about  11  or  thereby,  Edward  Rynd,  Weaver,  assaulted  Mr  James  Wallace, 
minister  of  Kirkwall,  in  his  dwelling-house  for  his  life,  had  he  not  been  hindered  by  the 
neighbours  thereabout,  and  was  that  night  placed  within  the  irons  within  the  Tolbooth  at  ye 
command  of  Bailie  David  Moncrieff,  for  the  which  deed  the  said  Edward  is  to  be  banished  the 
Country,  beside  further  punishment  for  so  hynous  a  crime." |  "  Therefore  he  was  ordained  by 
My  Lord  Bishop  and  Session  to  stand  five  dayes  in  the  pillarie  professing  his  repentance."  § 

Rynd  had  been  guilty  of  a  shameless  assault  on  a  kinswoman  of  liis  own,  and  had  been 

*  5th  May  1684. 

+  That  stone  now  stands  seventh  from  the  west  door  of  the  seventh  nave  aisle. 

t  T.  B.  §  S.  K.,  10th  April  1682. 


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BRIDGE  TO   LONG  GUTTER.  173 

before  the  civic  court.  The  Magistrates  had  been  so  puzzled  by  the  unprecedented  case  that 
they  docketed  the  indictment—"  This  to  be  thocht  upon." 

But  the  Session  had  no  difficulty  in  the  matter.  They  took  from  the  scoundrel  all  the 
money  the  bailies  had  left  him,  and  clapped  him  into  Marwick's  Hole. 

Mr  Wallace  may  be  said  to  have  died  in  harness.  He  presided  at  a  meeting  of  Session, 
12th  November  1688,  and  one  week  later  the  entry  is,  "No  Session,  Wednesday  19th,  by 
reason  of  Mr  Wallace  death.'* 

"  Tuesday  morg.,  betwixt  two  and  thrie  or  yrby,  Mr  James  Wallace,  ane  of  the  ministers 
of  Kirkwall,  depd.  this  lyfe,  and  was  interred  in  Saint  Magnus  Kirk  there  on  Thursday,  20th 
Sept.,  nizt  to  the  place  where  his  wyfe  was  interred  neir  the  carved  stone  set  at  the  pillar  on 
the  south  side  of  the  choir.  Mr  Jn.  Wilson,  second  minister,  taught  his  funeral  sermon,  his 
text  was  14th  Job,  10  v.,  "  For  man  dieth  and  wasteth  away,  yea,  man  giveth  up  the  ghost, 
and  where  is  he  ]"  * 

"  Mr  Jame.s,  son  of  the  late  Mr  James  Wallace,  minister,  came,  in  presence  of  the 
Ministers,  Magistrates,  and  Elders  of  the  Session  of  Kirkwall,  and  gave  into  the  hands  of  the 
Thesaurer  ane  hundred  merks  money  mortified  by  his  umqi.  father  in  testament  for  the  use  of 
the  church  of  Kirkwall.  The  Session  appoint  and  ordain  that  two  cups  for  the  sacrament 
should  be  bought,  and  Mr  Wallace  name  engraved  on  them."  f 

His  "  Description  of  Orkney  "  shows  him  to  have  been  a  scholar  and  a  man  of  observation, 
while  such  of  his  business  transactions  as  are  recorded  prove  him  highly  honourable  in  all  his 
dealings.  The  disposition  of  his  house  is  somewhat  peculiar  : — "  The  said  Mr  James  himself 
and  Elizabeth  Cuthbert,  his  spouse,"  gave  this  property  to  their  sons,  "  with  ane  speciall 
provision  that  in  case  it  should  happen  the  said  James  or  the  said  Andrew  in  anie  ways  to 
misbehave  or  miscairie  in  anie  act  or  doed  materiall,  or  to  undertack  actions  disadvantgeouse 
or  contrair  to  credit  or  civil  reputation,  then  and  in  that  cais  it  should  be  lasome  to  anie  of 
their  said  parents  alive  at  the  tyme  to  redeem  the  said  by  paying  an  angell  of  gold,  or  sex 
pound  thretteen  shillings  four  pennyeis  Scotts." 

It  was  scarcely  in  keeping  with  "  civil  reputation  "  that,  in  1700,  Dr  James  Wallace  should 
publish  an  edition  of  the  "  Description  of  Orkney  "  without  any  reference  to  his  father's  work, 
and  with  a  sycophantic  dedication  by  himself  to  the  Earl  of  Dorset. 

The  year  after  their  father's  death  the  house  was  sold  by  James  Wallace,  with  consent  of 
Andrew,  to  William  Liddell  of  Hammer,  "  together  with  all  the  timber  work  not  moveable,  as 
possest  by  Mr  James  Stewart,  Commissary  of  Orkney." 

The  first  of  the  Orkney  Liddells  was  Francis  Liddell,  A.M.,  a  younger  son  of  Liddell  of 
Halkerstoti,  "  ane  man  of  gud  reputatioune  both  in  lyfe,  conversatioune,  and  doctrine."  J  He 
took  his  degree  at  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  and  was— probably  in  1627— appointed 
assistant  and  successor  to  Mr  Swentoune,  minister  of  Birsay  and  Harray. 

His  grandson,  George,  who  married  in  1662  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Thomas  Traill  of 
Holland,  was  the  first  Liddell  of  Hammer.  George  Liddell  of  Hammer,  "  heritor  thereof," 
contracts,  28th  November  1661,  to  marry  Elizabeth  Traill  "before  the  1st  of  January  to  come, 
and  to  infeft  her  in  his  lands  in  Hammer,  in  Twatt,  and  in  Sabiston,  all  in  Birsay,  Thomas 
Traill  to  pay  in  tochergood  1000  merks."  § 

The  next  Laird  was  William,  who  married  Margaret,  daughter  of  Harry  Grahame  of 
Breckness,  a  granddaughter  of  Bishop  Honyman.  It  was  he  who  bought  the  house  of  Rev. 
James  Wallace.  At  this  time  the  next  house  southward,  "  of  old  called  the  Cross  House," 
at  the  corner  of  the  lane,  belonged  to  the  Paplay  family,  and  in  1703  Barbara  Paplay, 

*  T.  B.  t  S.  R.,  14th  July  1681.  J  Fasti. 

§  Favoured  by  Mr  Thomas  Hutton  Johnston,  late  of  the  Register  Office,  Edinburgh. 


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RIBKWALI.  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


^  only  or  at  least  appearaad  air  to  umql  Magnus  Paplay,  her  guidser,''  sold  it  to  William 
liddell 

(George,  eldest  son  of  William  Liddell  of  Hammer,  was,  on  1st  October  1703,  contracted 
to  Anna,  daughter  of  the  deceased  William  Rendall  of  Breck.  Hammer  settled  upon  the 
bridegroom  his  lands  in  the  West  Mainland,  with  ^the  houses  on  both  sides  of  the  close 
presently  possessed  by  the  said  William  Liddell  in  Kirkwall/'  Liferent  was  of  course  reserved 
for  the  said  William  and  Margaret  Graham,  his  spouse.  The  bride's  brother,  Thomas  Rendall 
of  Breck,  gave  1000  merks  as  his  sister's  tochergood. 

William  Liddell  was  Stewart  Depute  of  Orkney,  but  for  a  long  time  he  stood  aloof  from 
municipal  work,  as  his  name  appears  for  the  first  time  in  the  sederunt,  11th  September  1730. 

On  that  day  the  Council  *'  mett  In  obedience  to  an  order  and  appoyntment  of  the  Lords 
of  Councill  and  Session  contained  in  ane  Decreet,  bearing  Date  at  Edinburgh  the  Eighteenth 
of  July  last,  for  electing  and  making  choice  of 
a  new  Dean  of  Guild,  Thesaurer,  and  Councill 
conforme  to  the  Sentence  and  Sett  of  the 
Burgh."  At  the  previous  Michaelmas  there 
had  been  some  irregularity  in  the  election  of 
the  Town  Council.  But  on  the  18th  April 
1730,  "the  Magistrates  and  Councill,  consider- 
ing that  they  have  received  coppys  upon  a 
Summonds  of  Reduction  at  the  Instance  of 
William  Rendall  of  Breck,  Andrew  Young  of 
Castleyards,  and  William  Liddell  of  Hammer, 
Intending  to  reduce  ye  election  of  Provostry 
and  the  election  of  Dean  of  Guild,  Trcsr.,  and 
Council  ye  second  day  of  December  last,  altho 
both  the  saids  elections  are  most  regular  and 
in  terms  of  the  sett  of  the  Burgh,  Therefore  the 
Magistrates  and  Councill  Do  look  upon  and 
judge  these  proceedings  as  a  mainfast  aifront 
done  to  ym  as  office-bearers  in  the  sd.  Burgh, 
and  a  vioalation  of  and  incroachment  upon  the 
just  rights  and  privileges  of  the  samen,  And 
Do  therefore  earnestly  desyre  the  favour  of, 
and  most  pressingly  recommend  unto  John 
Covingtrie  of  Newark,  present  provost  of  this 
Burgh,  that  he  would  take  the  Trouble  to  Send 
up  the  sds.  Coppys  to  Peter  Blair  and  Alex- 
ander Jollie,  the  Town's  agents,  and  invite 
them  to  imploy  Able  and  Sufficient  Lawyers 
for  the  Defence  of  that  Cause,  the  Honour 
of  the  Burgh  and  the  Credite  of  the  Magistrates  and  Councill  being  much  concerned 
therein." 

The  Magistrates  lost  the  case,  however,  the  election  was  reduced,  and  a  new  Council 
chosen,  Uth  September.  At  the  general  election,  eighteen  days  afterwards,  along  with  William 
Liddell  of  Hammer,  sat  his  son,  who  is  designated  ^^  Mr  George  Liddell,  Merchd."  In  all  the 
sederunts  the  father  is  plain  William,  while  the  son  is  always  Mr  George,  pointing  to  the  fact 
that  young  Liddell  had  attended  a  university. 


Tombstone  in  Cathedral  to  George  Liddell 
of  Hammer. 


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BRIDGE  TO  LONG  GUTTER.  175 

Id  October  1733,  William  Liddell's  daughter,  Elspeth,  married  William  Traill,  first  of 
Frotoft,  and  the  Cross  House  seems  to  have  been  given  as  part  of  the  bride's  tocher.  Here  their 
son,  Thomas  Traill  of  Frotoft,  lived  and  flourished  as  merchant,  Councillor,  and  Provost.  He 
married  Robina,  daughter  of  Robert  Orant,  merchant,  Kirkwall,  and  granddaughter  of  the 
Rev.  Alexander  Grant  of  South  Ronaldshay.  In  1821,  Thomas  Traill  leaves  to  "Anne,  only 
surviving  daughter  procreated  betwixt  him  and  Mrs  Robina  Orant,  his  Spouse,  the  house  at 
the  comer  of  the  Long  Outter,  formerly  belonging  to  William  Liddell  of  Hammer.**  At  the 
time  of  the  bequest  Jane  Traill  had  been  for  ten  years  Mrs  Watt  of  Breckness  and  SkaiU,  and 
thus,  from  1821  to  1866,  this  house  became  the  town  residence  of  the  Watts  of  Skaill. 

Long  before  the  Cross  House  passed  to  the  Watts,  Liddell  of  Hammer  had  sold  Mr 
Wallace's  manse.  In  his  garden  the  minister  had  erected  a  summer  house  with  a  dove-cot  as 
upper  storey.  This  Liddell  retained,  and  in  the  dozen  transfers  of  the  neighbouring  property 
the  summer  house  and  "  dowcot "  are  reserved,  and  go  not  with  Mr  Wallace's  house,  to  which 
they  formerly  belonged,  but  with  the  Cross  House.  A  few  years  ago  the  present  owner,  Mr 
James  Ferguson  Flett,  discovered  in  the  inner  end  of  the  summer  house  a  recess  which  had 
been  built  up,  and  which  had  without  doubt  been  meant  for  the  concealment  of  contraband 
goods,  hence  Liddell's  reservation. 

The  first  of  the  Watts  who  appears  in  the  Kirkwall  records  was  '*  Mr  Jn.  Watt,  that  came 
from  Edinboro  to  be  schoolmaster  of  the  Orammar  School  of  Kirkwall."  ♦  Mr  Watt  was  at 
that  time  a  student  of  medicine,  aud  when,  two  years  later,  he  would  have  gone  south  to 
finish  his  studies,  he  was  prevented  by  *'  pirates  at  sea  making  the  voyage  dangerous."  On 
completing  his  curriculum,  he  settled  in  Kirkwall  as  a  physician.  He  married,  1690, 
Margaret  Kirfcness,  '^  on  lie  daughter  in  lyfe  to  umql.  David  Kirkness  and  Helen  Wilson, 
Spouse."  + 

His  eldest  son,  John,  went  to  Jamaica  and  acquired  wealth.  An  interesting  description 
of  his  plantation  and  stock  is  contained  in  a  letter  to  his  cousin,  William  Watt,  merchant, 
Kirkwall,  dated  20th  September  1764  :— 

"  Dear  Cousine, — I  did  expect  to  corned  home  by  Capt.  Murray,  and  spoke  to  him  accordingly, 
and  had  my  Ticket  out  of  the  office,  but  a  great  bargain  threw  up,  which  will  detain  me  some  years 
in  Jamaica.  I  sold  my  property  in  Westmoreland,  which  amounted  to  about  £2000  ste.,  which  I  had 
in  good  Bills  of  Exchiuige.  With  that  I  purchased  a  pleasant  seat  in  this  parish,  called  Dongarvon, 
300  acres  of  good  sugar  Land,  2  miles  from  the  sea ;  has  a  beautiful  prospect  of  the  neighbouring 
Windmill  Estate,  a  good  House  ready  furnished,  16  Mares,  10  head  of  cattle,  29  seasoned  Working 
Neffroes,  10  of  wch.  are  carpenters  and  sawyers,  wch.  cost  me  £3500  Currency,  and  20  new  negroes 
wch.  cost  me  £1100  Currency — in  all,  £4600  Currcy.  I  am  working  a  Gang  of  40  of  them  out  in 
falling  and  clearing  Land  for  the  planters,  and  5  carpenters  I  hire  out  at  £3  per  month  each,  wch.  will 
bring  me  in  £1000." 

At  this  time  there  were  numbers  of  enterprising  Orcadians  planters  and,  of  course,  slave- 
holders in  the  West  Indies.  Watt  mentions  Laing,  Mowat,  and  other  Orkney  people.  A 
letter  from  John  Mowat,  son  of  the  Key.  Hugh  Mowat,  of  Evie,  describes  another  estate  :— 

"  Orkney  Hall,  Jamaica,  10th  May  1766. 
"  Dear  Brother, — I  shall,  according  to  your  desire,  ffive  you  as  phun  a  description  of  my  Planta- 
tion as  I  can.  It  is  most  pleasantly  situated  upon  a  River  named  Thomas  Biver— sood  land,  Black 
mould  on  a  clav,  and  with  proper  strength  would  make  a  good  sugar  Work  ;  it's  well  timbered  with 
variety  of  timber,  the  principal  is  Mahoffenie  and  Cedar ;  I  having  1380  acres  in  the  new  purchase 
and  350  acres  by  my  wile  adjoining  to  said  land,  beside  80  acres  in  Witherwood,  the  most  fertile  part 
of  the  Island  ;  each  acre  is  valued  at  £40,  which  is  the  pro^rty  of  my  childrrai,  and  I  am  Guardian 
for  them.  I  have  at  present  36  negroes,  besides  stock,  but  m  order  to  improve  the  land  in  possession, 
I  would  require  70  negroes  and  70  head  of  cattle." 

*  T.  6.,  22nd  August  1688.  t  T.  B.,  3l8t  Jan.  1690. 


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KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 


John  Mowat  died  in  1800,  and  it  is  quite  probable  that  his  descendants  are  in  Jamaica  to 
this  day. 

William  Watt,  probably  a  brother  of  John,  the  physician,  also  settled  in  Kirkwall  about 
1690.    He  married  a  daughter  of  ScoUay  of  Odness,  and  lived  in  one  of  the  Castleyard  houses. 

The  ScoUays  of  Odness  were  believed  to  have  had  the  gift  of  second  sight.  Towards  the 
end  of  the  last  century  there  were  three  of  that  family,  two  sisters  and  a  brother,  all  deaf  and 
dumb.  The  sisters  lived  in  Kirkwall,  and  when  Richan  of  Rapness  and  his  boat's  crew  were 
drowned  going  out  to  Westray,  they  were  seen  to  be  in  great  distress,  wringing  their  hands 
and  pointing  seaward.  The  brother  lived  at  Skaill  with  Mr  Watt,  and  every  now  and  then 
he  would  look  out  an  extra  supply  of  silver  and  see  it  polished,  and  would  have  a  spare  room 
or  rooms  prepared  for  occupation,  and  this  restlessness  was  speedily  followed  by  the  arrival 
of  unexpected  visitors  to  the  number  indicated  by  ScoUay.    So  it  is  said. 

William  Watt's  son,  also  William,  acquired  wealth  as  a  merchant,  and  became  a  leading 
man  in  Orkney.    He  was  a  keen  Jacobite,  and  in  1746,  along  with  Sir  James  Stewart  of 
Burray,  was  sent  to  London  by  Capt.  Moodie  of  Melsetter. 
After  a  short  imprisonment,  he  was   liberated  and    came 
north,  the  bearer  of  the  Act  of  Oblivion  in  favour  of  the 
Orcadian  adherents  of  the  Stuarts. 

He  married,  1729,  Katherine,  daughter  of  Mr  John 
Gibson,  minister  of  Evie.  Their  second  son,  John  Gibson 
Watt,  settled  in  London  as  a  surgeon,  and  amassed  a  con- 
siderable fortune,  which  he  devoted  to  the  founding  of  Watt's 
Hospital,  London. 

The  oldest  son,  William,  as  his  father  had  done,  went  to 
the  manse  of  Evie  for  a  wife,  and  married,  1756,  Jean, 
daughter  of  Rev.  Hugh  Mowatt,  by  whom  he  had  a  largo 
family.* 

In  1775,  he  married  a  second  time,  Margaret  Graham, 
daughter  of  Robert  Graham  of  Breckness  and  Skaill,  sister 
of  Patrick  Graham  of  Breckness,  who  sold  the  estate  to  his 
brother-in-law,  William  Watt. 

William  Graham  Watt,  eldest  son  of  this  marriage,  took 
to  wife,  1811,  Ann,  only  daughter  of  Thomas  Traill  of  Frotoft. 
He  died,  1866,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  eldest  son,  William 
Watt  Graham  Watt,  who  married  Barbara,  daughter  of  the 
Rev.  William  Logie,  D.D. 

He  left  the  estate  of  Breckness,  subject  to  his  widow's  life-rent,  to  his  nephew,  William 
George  Thomas  Watt,  son  of  his  youngest  brother,  Robert  Graham  Watt,  by  Elizabeth, 
daughter  of  George  Dale,  Newcastle-on-Tyne. 

Returning  to  the  Bridge  and  the  houses  on  the  east  side  of  the  street,  we  see  a  gable,  the 
windows  in  which  look  straight  down  towards  the  pier.  In  1677  this  house  belonged  to 
William  Mudie,  merchant. 

Mudie's  daughter,  Jean,  married  Alexander  Geddes,  skipper,  who  makes  frequent  appear- 
ances in  our  records. 

"  August  23rd,  1682,  bying  Wednesday,  Alexr.  Geddes  arrived  at  Kirkwall  from  Holland 
with  his  vessel  or  ship  quhrin  was  ye  Great  Bell  of  Kirkwall  returned  after  ye  casting  yrof  at 

*  The  family  of  the  late  William  Watt  Bain,  writer,  Kirkwall,  through  his  mother,  Catherine 
Watt,  now  represent  this  branch. 


Arms  of  the  Watts. 


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BRIDGE   TO   LONG   GUTTER. 


17T 


Rotterdam."  Four  years  after  this.  Captain  Geddes  gave  the  order  for  a  new  vessel,  which 
was  so  expeditiously  built  as  to  surprise  the  people  of  Kirkwall  :--*'  23rd  Augt.  1687,  Tuesday, 
Alexr.  Geddes  his  new  vessel  or  ship,  built  upon  the  air  of  Kirkwall,  was  hailed  from  the 
shoar  to  the  road  there,  which  ship  was  begun  and  entered  to  be  built  from  the  kiell  and 
upward  by  Thos.  Orchard,  James  Halcro,  and  other  carpentei-s,  14th  Sept.  1686."  This  vessel 
does  not  seem  to  have  been  very  lucky,  for  within  three  year*  of  her  launching,  we  find  her 
twice  driven  ashore  in  gales,  once  at  Pierowall  and  again  on  Ellyerholm. 

After  retiring  from  the  sea,  Geddes  entered  the  Town  Council  and  became  a  bailie.  Ha 
was  survived  by  his  widow. 

In  those  days  ladies  saw  to  the  manufacture  of  their  own  napeiy  : — 

**  I,  Jean  Geddes,  relict  of  umquel  Alexander  Geddes,  late  Bailie  of  Kirku'all,  grants  me  to  have 
received  from  David  Traill  of  Seba  the  quantity  of  five  stone  and  one  pound  of  Lint,  at  five  lbs.  ten 
shilling  pr.  stone,  is  twenty-two  pound  sixteen  shilling  Scotts,  of  which  I  grant  this  recent,  as  witnesa 
my  hand  at  Kirkwall  the  nynth  day  of  Apprile  1702.  (Signed)        Jban  Mudik." 

This  receipt  and  the  beautiful  signature  show  Mrs  Geddes  to  have  had  an  education,  at  all 
events  in  writing,  exceedingly  good  for  a  girl  in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century. 

Long  before  1702,  Bailie  Geddes'  house  had  passed  into  other  hands.  A  lintel  over  a 
doorway  in  the  north  wall,  inscribed  "16,  G.  T.,  A.  B.,  84,"  records  the  fact  that  George  Traill  of 
Quendale  bought  it,  and  on  its  site  had  built  a  handsome  residence.  He  married,  1674, 
Elizabeth  Irving,  who  died  1681,  and  whose  tombstone  is  now  in  the  south  nave  aisle,  near 
the  transept. 


Stone  over  Doorway  in  Lang  Stean  Close. 

In  1682  he  married  Anna,  daughter  of  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  and  two  years  later, 
as  the  lintel  tells,  he  built  this  house  for  her. 

Mr  Traill  was  Provost  of  Kirkwall  in  1690,  and  again  from  1695  to  1698.  He  had  a  dis- 
pute with  the  Council  on  the  3rd  of  September,  the  last  day  of  his  appearance  in  the  chair. 
The  subject  under  discussion  is  not  minuted,  but  the  Provost  thought  fit  to  leave  town  in  a 
huff. 

At  a  meeting  in  the  Tolbooth,  20th  September  1698,  Bailie  Kaa  in  the  chair,  "The 
Magistrates  and  Counsill  present  all,  in  one  voice,  appoynts  That  a  letter  be  write  and  sub- 
scry  ved  and  sent  presentlie  to  Rowsay  to  Provist  Traill  to  see  wither  or  not  he  will  accept  to 
be  Provist  of  this  Burgh  for  the  Inshewing  yeir,  as  he  was  Lawfullie  the  last  yeir,  and  if  he 
wOl  subscrive  his  accepting  at  his  coming  to  Kirkwall,  And  behave  as  Provist,  or  if  the 
Magistrates  and  Counsill  shall  proceed  and  ellect  ane  new  provist." 

2a 


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178  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

The  Provost's  reply  exhibits  much  orthographical  ingenuity  : — "  Quandel,  the  22  daye  of 
Sept.  '98. — Qentelmene,  I  thincke  strange  yt  ye  should  have  desyred  meie  till  have  continoud 
prowist  for  this  yeir,  when  yt  ye  reffused  meie  suche  an  small  request  the  Last  yer,  for  I  tould 
you  befor  I  went  oute  of  toune  yt  I  wold  nott  except  of  the  prowistrie  for  this  yer  ;  therefor 
I  wish  from  my  verie  hert  ji)  ye  may  choyese  on  yt  may  be  for  the  good  of  the  plese. — Your 
weel  wishing  ffriend,  G.  T."  He  then  proposes  Kaa  and  Sabay  to  be  added  to  the  list,  and 
gives  his  vote  for  Bailie  Kaa.    The  Council  elected  David  Traill  of  Sabay. 

Near  Quendale's  house,  at  the  side  of  the  biu*n,  there  had  stood  a  large  mansion,  *'  of  old 
called  the  Dowcot,"  with  offices  and  pertinents.  Before  1677,  however,  it  had  gone  to  ruin, 
and  its  grounds  were  occupied  by  a  humbler  class  of  tenements.  "  Magnus  Moir,  weaver, 
hath  ane  tenement,  possest  be  himself  and  uthers,  near  to  the  Long  Stone,  betwixt  the  running 
burn  and  the  loan  towards  Pabdale  on  the  east,  the  rest  of  the  haill  building  or  Fabrick  of  old 
called  ye  dowcot  on  the  west."  "  Agnes  Linay,  relict  of  umql.  Thos.  Moir,  weaver,  hath  in 
liferent  ane  pt.  of  sd.  land,  of  old  called  the  dowcot,  p'ntlie  possest  by  herself  and  uyrs,  under 
s.  thack  roofe.  James  Morrison  hath  the  rest  of  the  said  tenement  or  Fabrick,  being  small, 
little  houses,  under  theack  roof,  possest  be  se'all  persons." 

Among  the  "several  persons"  was  James  Fea,  pyoner.  Nowadays  our  streets  are 
swept  by  town-appointed  scavengers,  but  fonnerly  each  householder  was  responsible  for  his 
own  front.  The  pyoner  was  the  professional  street-cleaner  at  the  service  of  any  one  who 
chose  to  em]>loy  him,  and  he  also  cleared  away  ashes  and  refuse  from  the  backyards  of  the 
few  who  kei)t  their  premises  tidy.  To  show  that  there  was  a  livelihood  to  be  made  by  the 
pyoner  : — "  Kirkwall,  19th  Nov.  1677. — Conforme  to  order  of  the  Magistrates,  the  persones 
undernamed  were  poyndit  for  not  Dighting  the  Street  on  Saturday  last,  being  ye  17  Nor. 
Instant."  Then  follows  a  list  of  fifty  defaulters,  and  so  scarce  was  ready  coin  in  Kirkwall, 
that  only  thirteen  were  able  to  pay  their  fine  of  four  shillings  Scots,  and  the  rest  were  actually 
subjected  to  jKiynding.  Among  the  articles  seized  were — "  Wm.  Gyre,  a  choppin  stoup  ;  Robt. 
Pottinger,  a  pair  of  shoone  ;  Capt.  Drummond,  a  brass  candlestick  ;  John  Ross,  ane  pewter 
plaitt ;  James  Maxwell,  ane  Mutchkin  stoup ;  Magnus  Good,  a  new  pynt  stoup ;  Wm. 
Richane,  a  browne  coat ;  Francis  Murray,  a  red  petticoat." 

Another  occupant  of  one  of  the  small  thatched  houses  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Dowcot 
was  George  Sinclair,  "  borrowman."  The  "  borrow  "  is  of  course  a  hand-barrow,  for  as  yet  no 
wheeled  vehicle  of  any  kind  had  been  trundled  through  the  streets  of  Kirkwall.  One  of 
Sinclair's  neighbours  is  designated  a  "burden  bearer,"  evidently  a  lower  grade  of  public 
carrier,  seeing  that  the  possessor  of  a  hand-barrow  was  necessarily  an  employer  of  labour  as 
well  as  a  worker. 

Having  built  his  house,  George  Traill  bought  from  Robert  Morrison  a  "  third  part  of  the 
tenement  of  old  called  the  Dowcot,"  and  "  Twa  pairt  of  the  ruinous  house  over  against  the 
gait  of  the  said  tenement  lyand  betwixt  the  said  house  called  the  Dowcot  and  the  running 
burn  passing  under  the  bridge."  From  Thomas  Moir,  weaver,  he  purchased  a  kail-yard 
adjacent  to  his  own,  so  that  he  secured  for  himself  the  greater  part  of  the  space  between  the 
Lang  Stean  and  the  corner  of  the  road  at  Queen  Street. 

The  Dowcot  is  one  of  a  number  of  Kirkwall  houses  that  has  left  a  name  but  no  history. 
It  would  be  interesting  to  know  something  of  the  lives  of  the  couple,  evidently  in  affluent 
circumstances,  whose  house  got  a  name  so  suggestive  of  billing  and  cooing.  We  only  know 
that  their  name  was  Raynuir,  and  this,  with  the  position  of  the  Dowcot  just  opposite  the  old 
Guardhouse,  might  suggest  that  Mr  Raynuir  was  an  officer  of  high  rank  in  CromwelFs 
Kirkwall  garrison. 

Traill's  house,  now  that  he  had  bought  up  the  "Dowcot"  property,  must  have  been 


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BRIDGE  TO   LONG   GUrfKR.  17* 

a  very  desirable  residence,  with  its  yard  stretching  down  to  the  clear  running  Pabdale 
burn. 

In  1712,  "  William  Traill,  sone  to  Quendall,  hath  ane  tenement  of  land  possest  by  hiuiself«- 
under  sclaitt  roof,  upon  the  east  syd  of  the  street  nixt  the  bridge  of  Kirkwall." 

"  George  Traill,  Chamberlaud  of  the  Earldom,  hath  ane  house  under  sclaitt  roof  possesst 
by  himself  on  the  East  gavell  of  the  said  William  Trail  his  house,  both  of  which  houses  have 
office  houses  on  the  south  syde  of  the  closs." 

The  present  Commercial  Bank  occupies  a  site  of  historic  interest.  Here  a  cluster  of 
houses,  forming  three  sides  of  a  square,  enclosed  a  space  known  as  the  Parliament  Close. 
"  By  the  original  mortgage  from  Norway,  it  was  settled  that  the  Norwegian  laws  and  customs 
were  to  continue  in  force  during  the  non-redemption  of  the  islands  from  Scotland,  and  the 
Scottish  Legislature,  by  a  subsequent  Act,  continued  the  Scandinavian  law,  so  that  the 
government  of  the  islands  was  vested  in  the  Earl,  in  conjunction  with  a  sort  of  h)cal 
Parliament  exercising  all  the  functions  of  a  legislative  iissenibly,  a  judicial  tribunal,  and  a 
jury."  *  This  little  square  had  been  the  seat  of  <uir  local  Parliament,  and  down  to  the  middle 
of  the  seventeenth  century  public  business  was  transacted  here.t 

In  1677  the  northern  part  of  the  Parliament  Ch»se  was  occupied  by  Helen  Scollay, 
"  soraetyme  relict  of  the  umqle  Thon)as  Baikie,  Skipper,  now  spous  to  James  Maxwel^ 
Skipper." 

James  Maxwell  sailed  a  vessel,  the  "  David  and  James,"  of  the  burden  of  27  Orkney 
chalders,  which  belonged  to  George  Scott  of  Giblieston,  tacksman  of  the  earldom  for  five 
years,  commencing  1670.     It  is  said  that  Scott  lost  by  his  tack  owing  to  war  and  bad  seasons. 

"  It  was  deponed  by  Magnus  Irving,  Mrcht.,  Kirkwall,  that  during  the  war  with  the 
States— 1672-1673— the  said  George  Scott  his  ship,  laden  in  the  country  with  Orkney  here,, 
bound  for  Leith,  was  driven  into  Deersound  by  a  Dutch  Privateer,  and  was  blockd.  there  sa 
that  she  could  not  make  her  voyage,  and  lay  there  till  her  cargo  became  perished  and  was 
thrown  into  the  sea,  the  value  of  the  cargo,  @  £84  p.  Ork,  Chalder,  was  £2189." 

Mrs  Maxwell's  dwelling  house  was  "  under  sclaitt  roof,  ye  kitchen  yrof  under  theack  roof."" 
This  portion  of  the  square  was  valued  at  twenty  pounds,  and,  besides  the  proprietrix,  it  waa 
occupied  by  several  tenants.  The  southern  half,  of  five  pounds  less  value  yearly,  was  occupied 
by  Barbara  Traill,  "  relict  of  umql  Magnus  Baikie,  Skipper." 

After  the  days  of  Maxwell  and  Baikie,  the  whole  Parliament  Close  came  into  possession 
of  another  skipper,  James  M*Kindlay.     His  vessel  was  the  "  James,"  and  he  was  part  owner. 

In  the  middle  of  the  last  century  the  southern  portion  was  occupied  by  William  Suther- 
land, wig-maker. 

When  the  Directors  of  the  Commercial  Bank  bought  this  property  from  Dr  Omond  of 
Monzie,  the  south-east  comer  of  the  ancient  Parliament  House  had  degenerated  into  a  stable. 

Between   the  Parliament    House    and 

the  Long  Gutter  there  were,  in  1677,  only  1^5*^^553^^^^^;?^^^^^ 

three  houses  where    now  there   are  four.      ^^"^  >i  ^==.-— '"_- 

The    first    above    Parliament    Close    was 
owned   and    occupied    by  James    Manson, 
Messenger-at-Arms,  a  man  whose  name  is  often  seen  in  the  old  documents  of  the  Court- 
house. 

Long  before  Manson's  occupancy,  however,  it  had  belonged  to  Malcolm  Hartsyde,  whose 
daughter  married  Sir  John  Buchanan  of  Scotscraig,  Kt.,  Sheriff  of  Orkney  and  Zetland. 

In  1615,  Sir  John  Buchanan  bought  from  Lawrence  Sinclair  of  Aith,  with  consent  of 
*  Pet.  Notes,  App.,  28.  t  See  anit,  p.  96. 


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180  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

about  a  dozen  other  Sinclairs,  "  twelve  footts  of  weast  ground  betwixt  ye  sd.  Jo.  Buchanan's 
house  and  John  Baikie  his  house.'' 

About  1622,  Buchanan  got  a  subtack  of  the  "  Erledome  of  Orknay  and  Lordschip  of 
Zetland  "  under  Lord  Napier  of  Merchiston. 

Leases  of  Church  lands  were  easily  procured  in  those  days,  and  such  leases,  by  judicious 
management  on  the  part  of  the  lessees,  grew  into  charters  giving  absolute  ownership.  Thus 
the  new  tacksman  acquired  Foreland,  near  Kirkwall,  also  property  in  Shapinsay.  Bishop 
Graham  says  : — "  Sir  Johne  Buchanane  coft  the  lands  of  Sound  and  Shapinshaw  fra  James 
Tullo,  was  enterit  be  me,  and  now  being  dead,  Harie  Aikin,  son-in-law  to  the  said  Sir  Johnei 
hes  sauld  the  same  to  Thomas  Buchanan,  now  Shireff  of  Orknay,*  who  is  not  enterit  unless 
he  hes  shortlie  de  novo  taken  a  new  holding  of  the  king,  qlk  I  think  he  either  hes  done  or  will 
doe.  His  lands  in  Shapinsaw  payis  for  wan  thing  and  uther  fyve  or  sixe  hundreth  poundis 
yeirlie,  and  will  be  worth  the  half  of  yat  or  yrby  to  himself."  t 

Scotscraig,  the  Buchanan  estate  in  Fife,  was  named  from  the  famous  wizard,  Michael 
Scott  of  Balwearie.  This  property  left  the  Buchanan  family  by  the  marriage  of  a  daughter  to 
a  son  of  the  Earl  of  Mar. 

Thomas  Buchanan  was  Provost  of  Kirkwall  from  1636  to  1647,  inclusive.  He  left  Sound 
and  some  house  property  in  Kirkwall  to  his  eldest  son,  Arthur,  while  to  John  he  gave  Sand- 
side  and  to  William,  Russland. 

The  money  to  buy  these  lands  was  acquired  by  James  Buchanan,  merchant,  Edinburgh, 
brother  of  Sir  John  and  father  of  Thomas. 

In  the  end  of  last  century  the  house  of  Sir  John  Buchanan  was  in  possession  of  the 
Brebners.  In  1830,  Isabella  Mainland,  spouse  to  George  M^Beath,  succeeded  her  mother, 
Anne  Brebner,  "  sometime  mantuamaker  in  Kirkl.,  spouse  to  Patrick  Mainland,"  merchant, 
and  in  this  family  it  still  remains. 

The  next  house  southward  was  a  double  tenement  belonging  to  John  Kaa,  merchant,  "  ye 
ane  halfe  under  a  sclaitt  roofe  j)ossest  be  himselfe  and  uyrs."  This  was  the  upper  half  of  the 
tenement,  and  it  was  built  in  1655,  the  year  of  the  marriage  of  John  Kaa  and  Agnes  Lou  tit. 
A  stone,  bearing  the  inscription,  "  I.  K.,  1655,  A.  L.,"  preserved  from  this  house,  was  built  into 
the  front  of  its  successor  by  Mr  Warren,  a  subsequent  owner  of  the  property.  A  tombstone 
in  the  north  aisle  of  the  Cathedral  nave  bears  the  inscription  : — "  Here  rests  the  corps  of  ane 
Pious  and  Honest  man,  John  Kaa,  somtym  Baily  of  Kirkwall.  He  was  married  with  Agnes 
Loutit,  1655." 

Several  generations  of  Kaas  took  an  active  part  in  the  business  of  the  Town  Council  and 
Kirk  Session. 

John's  daughter,  Margaret,  was  married  to  David  Covingtrie  ;  and,  6th  November  1684, 
**  Thursday,  about  3  in  the  afternoon,  James  Kaa,  Merchant  Burgess  of  Kirkwall,  was  married 
to  Margaret  Richan,  only  lawful  daughter  to  Robt.  Richan  of  Linklater,  procreate  betwixt 
him  and  Isobel  Ballenden." 

The  name  Kaa  has  long  been  extinct  in  Kirkwall.  It  is  purely  Danish — an  imitation  of  the 
familiar  cry  of  the  rook,  the  exact  equivalent  of  the  English  name  Caw,  and  similarly  pronounced. 

The  other  half  of  this  tenement  was  acquired  by  Bailie  James  Young,  son  of  Andrew 
of  Castleyards,  and  here  he  lived  with  the  wife  whom  he  married  in  1679.  Thomas  Brown 
enters  in  his  Diary,  11th  December  1678  : — "  James  Young,  Keeper  of  the  King's  Girnel,  was 
contracted  to  Elspeth  Forbes,  onlie  daughter  to  David  Forbes,  Notary  Public." 

*  The  office  of  SheriflFin  Scotland  dates  from  the  reign  of  Alexander  I.,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
twelfth  century,  and  was  held  in  Orkney  by  the  earls  or  their  deputies.    See  Appendix  to  this  oiapter. 

+  Pet.  Rent,  iii.  18. 


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BRIDGE  TO   LONG  GUTTER.  181 

The  house  at  the  corner,  having  "the  com  on  passage  called  the  lang  gutter  on  the  south," 
belonged  in  1677  to  Halcro  of  Crook.  It  had  at  one  time  been  church  property,  and  in 
1596  it  was  sold  to  Hew  Halcro  of  Aikers  by  Malcolm  Sinclair  of  Quendale,  "  chaplain  to  St 
Ninian*s  Altar  in  the  Cathedral  Kirk  in  Kirkwall."* 

The  kail-yard  of  this  house,  unlike  the  yards  of  the  houses  below,  did  not  go  back  to  the 
Pabdale  boundary,  but  had  "the  house  of  the  deceased  James  Linay  on  tha  east."  This 
break  in  the  middle  of  Laing  Street  is  noticeable  at  the  present  day.  From  Halcro  this 
tenement  passed  to  Stephen  Paplay,  who  had  also  the  property  over  the  way,  which  after- 
wards belonged  to  Liddell  of  Hammer. 

The  Kaas  afterwards  bought  Halcro's  house,  and  parted  with  their  old  dwelling,  which 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Town  Council.  It  subsequently  belonged  to  Covingtrie  of  Newark, 
Laing  of  Strenzie,  and  Murray  of  Noup,  the  last  of  whom  sold  it  in  1802  to  Thomas  Warren, 
an  immigrant  from  the  south,  to  whose  heirs  it  and  the  tenement  south  of  it  now  belong. 

Perhaps  the  best  known  occupant  of  the  house  at  the  corner  of  the  Long  Gutter  was  the 
late  Mr  George  Petrie,  Sheriff  Clerk,  a  man  of  keen  antiquarian  instinct.  Some  of  the  results 
of  his  investigations  are  preserved  in  MS.  in  the  Library  of  the  Scottish  Society  of  Antiquaries. 

The  Long  Gutter  was  an  open  ditch  running  from  the  brae  head  in  Laing  Street  across 
the  main  street  down  the  lane  till  it  joined  the  Hempow.  The  part  above  the  street  was 
formerly  known  as  Warren's  Walk,t  from  the  proprietor  of  the  house  at  the  foot  of  it,  and  the 
lower  part  was  popularly  called  the  Lane  of  Mounthoolie,  from  the  house  at  its  south-east 
comer.    The  unsavoury  name  prepares  us  for  such  an  order  as  the  following  : — 

**  Kirkwall,  ye  twentie- third  day  of  June  1703. 

"  Sederunt— John  Nisbet,  Dean  of  Guild  ;  William  Young,  his  baillie  ;  Wm.  Traill  and  Andrew 
Young,  counsillors. 

**  The  sd.  day  the  Dean  of  Guild  and  his  baillie  and  counsill,  taking  to  ther  consideratione  That 
the  close  and  Loan  called  the  Long  Gutter,  with  that  piece  of  the  Street  opposite  to  James  Mansone 
his  house,  is  bagd  up  with  gutter  and  other  filthines,  and  that  several  other  places  of  the  street  is 
abused  with  gutter  and  other  filthines,  Therefore  the  Dean  of  Guild,  his  baillie  and  counsill,  appoynts 
and  ordaines  the  officers  of  Court  to  charge  the  haill  Inhabitants,  from  the  Bridge  to  Baillie  Harie 
Moncrieff  his  house,t  to  clenze  and  dight  the  sd.  Long  gutter  betwixt  and  frydday  nixt,  and  appoynts 
James  Mansone  bis  famallie  to  cleanze  and  dight  the  street  opposite  to  his  house  agsd.  the  sa.  tyme, 
and  appoynts  all  other  persones  within  Brugh  to  be  charged  for  clenzeing  the  street  forgainst  their 
houses  agsd.  the  sd.  day,  ilk  persone  under  the  paine  of  Ten  pounds  Scots  money. 

(Signed)        J.  Nihbett." 

Though  the  people  living  in  the  Long  Gutter  were  accustomed  to  unwholesome  surround- 
ings, some  of  them  lived  to  a  good  old  age.  James  Linay,  who  lived  in  the  middle  of  this 
"  Loan,"  behind  Halcro  of  Crook's  house,  was  dead  in  1677,  but  his  widow  survived  him  till, 
"  7th  June  1687,  Elizabeth  Tait,  Relict  of  James  Linay  in  the  Long  gutter,  departed  this  lyfe, 
being,  as  was  supposed,  ane  hundreth  and  thrie  yeirs  of  age."  § 

James  Foubister,  cordiner,  was  Elspeth  Tait's  neighbour.  The  two  semi-detached  cottages 
standing  east  and  west,  facing  the  lane,  had  their  kail-yard  and  peat-brae  stretching  back  to 
the  lands  of  Pabdale. 

The  houses  at  the  head  of  Laing  Street  are  not  in  the  Long  Gutter,  but  stand  on  the  east 
slope  of  the  hill.  They  belong  to  Warren's  heirs,  and  are  comparatively  new.  So  is  the  house 
at  the  back,  which  was  built  and  occupied  by  Mr  Richard  Spence,  a  man  locally  famous  in  his 
day  as  an  architect. 

Somewhere  near  the  head  of  Laing  Street,  shortly  after  the  visit  of  the  Haldanes,  the 

Independent  congregation  had  their  first  meeting  house. 

*  Baikie's  papers. 

t  Li  old  Kirkwall  any  bit  of  street  having  a  flagged  pavement  was  known  as  a  "  Walk." 

i  Peace,  publisher's,  premises.  §  T.  B. 


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182  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


APPENDIX  TO  CHAPTER  XIL 

In  1567,  Sir  Gilbert  Balfour,  appointed  by  Queen  Maiy,  was  Sheriff  of  Orkney. 

In  1597,  Edward  Scollay  of  Strynzie  sat  for  Earl  Patrick  as  Sheriff  of  the  county.  After 
the  execution  of  this  nobleman  the  tacksman  of  the  earldom  lands  became  Sheriff  of  Orkney 
and  Zetland. 

Sir  John  Arnot,  to  whom  Earl  Patrick  had  mortgaged  his  estate,  was  bought  out  by  the 
King,  who  appointed  Sir  James  Stewart  Chamberlain  and  Sheriff.  Harie  Stewart  of  Carlougie 
was  his  depute,  and  he  s^it  from  1615  till  May  1622,  when  Sir  John  Buchanan  became 
tacksman. 

Mr  John  Dick,  acting  as  depute  for  his  father,  Sir  William  Dick  of  Braid,  held  his  first 
court  4th  February  1628. 

Edward  Sinclair  of  Essenquoy  sat  for  John  Dick,  4th  August  1630,  and  was  himself 
afterwards  Sheriff.     He  held  his  last  court  15th  April  1634. 

Harie  Aitken,  who  had  acted  as  depute  for  Essenquoy,  is  in  a  charter,  2nd  February 
1638,  styled  Sheriff  and  Admiral  Depute. 

Aitken  and  Thomas  Buchanan  of  Sound  sat  together  as  deputes,  2nd  August  1641. 

In  the  time  of  the  Commonwealth,  Patrick  Blair  of  Little  Blair  was  Sheriff. 

In  1669  the  county  was  erected  into  a  stewartry,  the  first  Stewart  being  George  Scott  of 
Giblistone.  He  was  succeeded  by  Captain  Andrew  Dick  in  1675  ;  Charles  Murray  of  Hadden 
and  Sir  Robert  Milne  of  Bameton,  1681  ;  William  Craigie  of  Gairsay,  1686 ;  Robert  Elphin- 
ston  of  Lopness,  1689  ;  Sir  Alexander  Brand,  1693  ;  Robert  Douglas,  1696  ;  Samuel  Maclellan, 
1697  ;  William  Menzies  of  Raws,  W.S.,  1702  ;  Sir  Alexander  Douglas  of  Egilshay,  1705  j 
Graham  of  Breckness,  1715  ;  Captain  Moody  of  Melsetter,  1717  ;  Hon^man  of  Graemsay, 
1722  •  Covingtrie  of  Newark.  1727  ;  John  Hay,  1732  ;  and  Andrew  Ross,  1742  to  1746. 

In  1747,  George  II.  wisely  enacted  that  the  sheriff  of  a  county  should  be  an  advocate,  and 
George  IV.  made  the  same  law  apply  to  the  sheriff-substitute. 


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1.  Jamu  BaiJtU  ^  Bunum  . 

f  .  FwrgatOTf 

8.  John  Mmifn    ,  .      „ 

i.  Jwmu  AdMnmm  •     m 

6.  Sinclair  qf  Buettquojf  .    185 

6.  Staintgatr't  Land  .  .    IM 

7.  WiUiam  Davidmm    .  .187 

8.  9rwA  Lodging  ....     180 
SL  Bolero  <^  Crook  .198 

10.  TheJUd^land.        ...    194 

11,  Rev.  WUlioM  Broad^oot  .  .    IM 
U.  B/n.  Th4ma»  TraiU  .    197 
18.  Botanic  Garden  qf  KirkwaU  .      „ 
14.  SUWarU  qf  Bwnrap  .  .816 


15.  /«>6«<  PorUrJkId     . 

16.  lfo«n(Aoo^M    . 

17.  Patrick  Prince,  HeU 

18.  Houee     dedicated    to 

Barbara 

19.  Moneri^  qf  Bapneee 
to.  Patrick  TraiU 
81.  David  Forbee  , 
88.  Buehanan'e  Oreat  Tatrd 
88,  Birthplace  qf  Matcolm  Laing, 

the  Hietoriam 
8A.  Robert  Henrf  eon 
86.  Oaetle  Hotel     . 
86.  TheOaetU 


904 


806 
80« 


807 

80S 


818 


CaetU^garde    . 

<Hd  Fleeh  Market 

Provoet  Biddoch 

Kinnaid^e  Bfnithg 

Old  Breio-houH 

The  Provoetrie. 

The  Theeaurerie 

Bub-chantrg  and  Arehrdeanerg 

Residence  qf  the  Chancellor     .    889 

Qrammar  School  .        .    801 


888 


886 
827 


Old  Town  HaU 
The  Ludgeing . 
Hag  Blrick'e  houee 
School  Wgnd  . 


886 
879 
888 
848 


81 .  MEDDLE. 


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CHAPTER  XIII. 

Long  Gutter  to  Strynd. 

JOUTH  of  the  Long  Gutter,  on  the  east  side  of  the  street,  was  the  house  of  James* 
Baikie  of  Burness.  The  old  Burness  mansion  formed  three  sides  of  a  square,  entered 
through  an  arched  gateway,  facing  which  was  the  front  door.  Its  yard  stretched  back 
to  "  the  lane  leading  towards  Pabdale/'  On  the  other  side  of  the  street,  with  a  width  equal  to 
the  frontage  of  his  dwelling-house,  he  had  a  "  muckle  yaird "  reaching  to  the  Oyce.  Still 
retaining  this  place,  Baikie  bought  the  house  ''  of  old  called  the  Thesaurerie,"  and  went  to 
live  in  Broad  Street.  Baikie  was  one  of  those  judicious  men  who  knew  how  to  make  the  best 
of  both  worlds.  He  was  a  successful  business  man,  a  magistrate,  and  an  elder  of  the  kirk. 
He  died  1679,  and  his  tombstone  in  the  south  nave  aisle  is  perhaps  more  suggestive  of  serious 
thought  than  any  other  in  the  Cathedral.  His  widow,  Sibilla  Halcro,  daughter  of  Hew  of 
that  ilk,  in  1681  married  John  Sinclair  of  Braebuster  under  a  dispensation  from  Bishop 
Mackenzie. 

In  1704,  the  Burness  mansion  at  the  Long  Gutter  was  acquired  from  Hugh  Baikie  bjr 
"  Bess  Baikie,"  widow  of  Rev.  Thomas  Mackenzie,  of  Shapinsay,  who  the  year  following  made 
it  over  to  her  two  sons,  Murdoch  and  James. 

From  the  Mackenzies  the  house  of  the  Burness  Baikies  was  purchased  by  Mr  Gilmour, 
tanner  and  leather  merchant,  Edinburgh,  who  pulled  down  the  old  place  and  erected  the 
present  house  on  its  site.  In  putting  up  the  new  houses,  Mr  Gilmour  added  largely  to  the 
amenity  of  this  part  of  the  town  by  withdrawing  his  frontage  several  feet,  and  thus  widening 
the  narrow  street. 

When  an  agency  of  the  Union  Bank  was  started  in  Kirkwall,  this  was  its  first  office.  The 
old  Burness  site  is  now  the  property  of  Samuel  Reid,  Esq.  of  Braebuster,  who  has  here  his 
office,  while  his  business  premises  occupy  a  considerable  part  of  the  old  garden. 

When  the  Laird  of  Burness  lived  at  the  corner  of  the  Long  Gutter,  his  next  neighbour  up 
the  street  was  William  Laughton,  a  good  man  and  a  public-spirited  burgess.  Laughton  had 
much  house  property  in  the  town,  part  of  which  came  to  him  by  his  marriage  with  Barbara, 
daughter  of  Magnus  Pottinger,  skipper. 

In  the  olden  time,  to  meet  emergencies,  the  town,  with  an  empty  treasury,  was  often 
obliged  to  draw  upon  the  good  nature  and  the  heavy  purses  of  her  wealthier  burgesses. 

If  the  cess,  or  land  tax,  was  not  levied  and  forwarded  with  reasonable  punctuality,  a 
party  of  soldiers  was  sent  to  quarter  on  the  town's  folk.  To  avoid  this  expense  and  humilia- 
tion, deficiences  were  sometimes  made  up  by  those  who  could  advance  ready  money.  The 
security  was  good,  and  the  interest  high. 

In  1674,  Laughton  sends  the  Town  Council  an  account  for  sums  thus  advanced,  which 
had  run  on  from  1658  :— 


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184  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

"  A  Not  op  Depursients  Defursed  be  William  Laughton  to  tub  Town  of  Kikkwall." 

**  Item  for  the  first  stent,  £8. 

**  Item  to  Balzie  Willsone  and  George  Spence,  to  send  to  the  provost — voluntarlie,  £12.* 

**  Item  to  Andrew  Comer  and  David  Forbes,  colls. — voluntartie,  £11  128. 

"  Item,  3rd  May  1672,  to  Babdes  Thoa.  Willsone  and  Patrick  Traill  and  Balzie  Moncrieff,  two 
pounds  of  pouther  ;  more  to  them,  22  July,  two  pounds  of  pouther,  at  2/  sterling  per  pound,  is  £4  lOs 
(Scots). 

**  Item,  January  20th,  1674,  for  stent,  the  last  year,  £14. 

"  Item  to  Mr  James  Reid,  £6  13s  4d."t 

Laughton's  whole  "  Depursients  "  amounted  to  £131  4s  2d.  He  asked  no  interest,  or,  as 
he  would  have  called  it,  annual  rent ;  he  took  off  all  the  "  voluntarlies  "  and  a  good  deal  more, 
reducing  his  claim  to  £54  6s  8d. 

Laughton  died  3rd  February  1681,  and  in  1714  his  house  belonged  to  James  Manson,  who 
lived  just  across  the  street.  In  the  Valuation  Roll  of  that  year  is  an  entry : — **  James 
Manson,  Elder,  hath  ane  tenement  under  thatch  roof,  commonly  called  Purgatory,  on  the 
east  side  of  the  street.  Item,  he  hath  another  tenement,  possest  by  himself,  commonly  called 
Hell." 

There  is  a  vague  tradition  of  a  fire  being  the  origin  of  these  euphonious  titles,  indicating 
that  when  Hell  was  in  blazes,  Purgatory  was  uncomfortably  hot.  But  houses  similarly 
named  are  to  be  found  in  other  parts  of  Orkney,  and  Hell  and  Purgatory  are  always  near 
each  other. 

"  Purgatory  "  was  demolished  in  1894,  and  the  houses  now  occupying  the  site  were  put  up 
by  Mr  Peter  Shearer,  who  built  in  line  with  Mr  Reid's  frontage. 

In  William  Laughton's  time,  the  house  south  from  his,  which  had  belonged  to  John 
Martyn,  merchant,  was  rented  by  Laughton  for  business  premises.  Though  Martyn  seems  to 
have  taken  no  active  part  in  public  work,  he  was  a  man  in  good  social  position  ;  for  in  1633 
he  married  Margaret,  daughter  of  James  Henryson  of  Clet.  In  1635  we  find  him  lending 
money  to  James  Tulloch  of  Breck,  Westray.  He  had  a  son.  Captain  Martyn,  R.N.,  who 
when  he  died  left  money,  for  which  several  claimants  came  forward.  "  John  and  Magnus 
Broune,  writers  in  Kirkwall,  compeared,  and  craved  ane  extract  of  their  baptysms,  whereby 
it  might  appear  they  were  lawfullie  begotten  in  the  bed  of  marriage  by  their  umql.  father 
and  mother."  J  This  was  for  the  purpose  of  proving  heirship.  "  Robert  Smith,  indweller 
in  Sanday,  desires  a  testimonie  of  his  mother's  baptism,  whereby  his  relation  to  Captynd 
Martyn  might  be  instructed."  § 

In  the  last  Book  of  Cess  and  Stent  for  1765,  William  Fife's  heirs  are  entered  as  paying 
one  pound  of  cess  on  Martyn's  house  and  Hell ;  but  Purgatory  is  certainly  meant  as  the  house 
next  to  Martyn's.    The  Valuation  Roll  of  1714  places  Hell  on  the  other  side  of  the  street. 

Next  to  Martyn's  house  was  that  of  James  Adamson.    This  man  was  a  mason,  and  in  his 

*  This  was  Provost  Patrick  Craigie,  who  was  then,  1661,  in  Edinburgh  on  Burgh  business. 

t  This  last  was  in  1660,  and  as  Mr  Reid  was  appointed  to  the  second  charge  in  August  of  that 
year,  this  is  evidently  his  first  Instalment  of  stipend.  The  Session  of  St.  Magnus  seems  to  have  been 
as  impecunious  at  that  time  as  the  Tomii  Council  was,  for  Mr  Reid's  ordination  dinner  remained  an 
outstanding  debt  for  fourteen  years.  The  account  was  sent  in  2nd  November  1674,  when  **  George 
Spence,  Baillie  of  St.  Ola,  alledged  that  the  Session  of  Kirkwall  was  restand  to  him  fifteen  pounds 
Scots  for  ane  dinner  made  be  him  on  Mr  James  Reid  his  admission  to  be  conjunct  minister  at  Kirk- 
wall the  eight  day  of  November  1660,  at  the  minister  and  eldars'  direction,  as  he  alledges."  The 
si^ificance  of  the  last  three  words  in  the  above  minute  lies  in  the  fact  that  Mr  Lennox,  who  was 
minister  of  the  first  charge  in  1660,  had  been  succeeded  by  Mr  Douglas  in  1662  and  by  Mr  Wallace  in 
1672  ;  and  as  in  the  fourteen  years  which  had  elapsed  since  the  day  of  the  dinner,  some  of  the  elders 
had  died,  the  validity  of  Spence's  claim  is  made  to  rest  upon  his  own  allegation.  The  Session  certainly 
seemed  inclined  to  dispute  the  old  account,  and  no  voucher  for  its  payment  exists. 

t  S.  R.,  25th  Jan.  1703.  §  S.  R.,  16th  Feb.  1703. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND.  185 

day  had  the  best  of  the  trade  going  in  Kirkwall.  He  was  largely  employed  by  the  Kirk 
Session.  He  broke  out  windows  in  the  north  choir  aisle,  that  the  people  sitting  under  the 
lofts  there  might  have  light.  When  the  town  clock  was  playing  fantastic  tricks  with  the 
public  time,  Adamson  got  an  order  for  a  couple  of  sundials,  that  the  town's  folk  should  not  be 
misled  as  to  the  hours. 

James  Adamson  was  succeeded  in  his  house  and  business  by  his  son,  Patrick,  of  whom 
little  is  known  except  his  attempt  to  sell  his  father's  tombstone.* 

In  the  seventeenth  century  the  most  prominent  of  the  Sinclair  clan  was  Edward  Sinclair 
of  £ssenquoy,  whose  town  house  was  in  Albert  Street,  next  to  Adamson's. 

Essenquoy  was  the  estate  in  Holm,  of  which  the  manse  was  the  manor  house.  Tbia 
property  had  belonged  to  the  Sinclairs  for  several  generations.  In  1605  William  Stewart  of 
Egilshay,  '*ane  honourable  man,  set  the  land  of  Menes,  in  the  Isle  of  Egilshay,  to  Hew 
Sinclair,  lawful  son  to  Oliver  Sinclair  of  Essenquoy  and  Roberta  Stevenson,  his  spouse." 

Oliver  Sinclair,  the  father  of  Edward,  lived  in  town,  having  apparently  leased  to  the 
Church  his  mansion  house  in  Holm.  In  July  1615,  Sibilla  Stewart,  widow  of  Rev.  Qilbert 
Bodie,  gave  up  ^'  the  vicarage  of  Holme  and  the  house  of  Asquoy,  called  the  Manse."  t  She 
had  stuck  to  them  as  long  as  she  could,  for  poor  Bodie,  her  husband,  had  been  drowned  in  a 
loch  in  Holm  as  long  ago  as  April  1606.  He  it  was  who,  for  a  vote  in  the  General  Assembly 
of  1698,  was  called  by  a  voter  of  a  diflFerent  way  of  thinking,  "  a  drunken  Orkney  asse."  { 

In  1617,  Edward  Sinclair  and  Robert  Henryson  of  Holland  were  '*ellectet  Commissioners 
to  the  approaching  Parliament  to  be  halden  the  xxvii.  day  of  May  next  conform  to  ane 
warrand,  and  protested  that  ane  reasonable  stent  myt  be  maid  for  ther  advancement  and 
mantenance.  Qrupon  the  Shrefi-depute,  wt.  advyse  and  consent  of  the  gentlemen  and  free- 
haldaris,  condescendit,  and  be  voittis  grantit  the  sume  of  ane  thousand  merkes  money." 

This  is  the  first  parliamentary  election  in  Orkney,  and  Peterkin  says  "There  is  no 
evidence  on  record,  as  far  as  yet  discovered,  that  there  was  another  during  the  troubled  times 
which  followed,  until  the  Restoration  in  1660." 

Edward  Sinclair  was  Provost  of  Kirkwall  from  1622  to  1636.  He  married  Ursulla 
Foulzie,  daughter  of  the  famous  churchman,  after  whom  they  named  their  son  Gilbert. 

The  sale  of  their  house  in  Kirkwall  marks  a  decline  in  the  fortunes  of  this  family.  In 
1633,  with  consent  of  his  wife  and  son,  Edward  Sinclair  borrowed  money  from  James  Baikie 
of  Tankemess.  With  interest  at  ten  per  cent.,  the  acceptance  of  a  loan  was  almost  certain  to 
be  followed  by  the  ruin  of  the  borrower.  In  1674  James  Baikie  of  Tankemess  sued  Ursulla 
Foulzie  for  £157  lis  Scots  as  "  Dewties"  on  her  late  husband's  lands  in  Deerness  and  St.  Ola, 
the  duties  being  the  interest  on  the  mortgage. 

Gilbert  Sinclair,  walking  in  his  father's  footsteps,  continued  borrowing  from  any  one  who 
would  lend,  with  the  result  that  his  houses  and  lands  changed  ownership.  Sinclair's  house  in 
Albert  Street  was  sold,  "  with  advyse,  consent,  and  assent  of  William  Sinclair  of  Sabay,"  to 
Edward  Cock  and  Margaret  Baikie,  his  spouse. 

The  Cocks  were  from  Sanday.  In  1585,  Mr  James  Cok  was  presented  to  Lady  Parish  in 
that  island,  and  before  1624  his  son  Thomas  was  minister  of  Cross  and  Bumess.  Thomas 
succeeded  his  father  in  Lady  Kirk  sometime  after  1627.  He  married  Janet  Andrew,  and  had 
several  sons.  James  Cok  of  Bea  appears  in  the  Court  books  as  borrowing  250  merks  from 
Elizabeth  Baikie,  widow  of  William  Irving  of  Gkiirsay,  1649.  Oliver  Cok  of  Kirkhous  owes 
Oliver  Fea  £86  13s  4d  in  1650.  On  the  other  hand,  Edward  Cock,  merchant  in  Kirkwall, 
appears  as  lending  George  Maxwell,  skipper,  560  merks ;  Patrick  Gordon,  Westove,  £100 ; 


•  See  ante,  p.  66.  t  Sheriff  Court  Books.  t  FastL 


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186 


KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


-^   *"  " 


1 


and  he  and  his  wife,  Margaret  Baikie,  contribute  to  the  ruin  of  Gilbert  Sinclair  of  Essenquoy 
and  Anna  Ballenden,  his  spouse,  by  lending  them  £1000.  In  1627  Edward  Cock  was  made 
a  bailie,  and  remained  in  the  magistracy  for  a  number  of  years. 

Since  the  days  of  the  Cocks,  the  town  house  of  the  Sinclairs  of  Essenquoy  has  been 
successively  owned  by  Dr  Hugh  Sutherland,  John  Reid,  merchant,  bis  nephew  George 
Omond  of  the  Fair  Isle,  and  his  heirs.  Its  site  is  now  occupied  by  the  business  premises 
of  Messrs  Robertson  &  Co.,  the  present  head  of  which  firm  is  Bailie  William  White. 

On  the  south  side  of  Edward  Sinclair's  close, 
the  house  now  belonging  to  Mr  Robert  Flett  was, 
in  1677,  the  *'  land  and  tenement  callit  Stainsgair's 
land."  This  ia  one  of  those  names,  like  Twatt  and 
Heddle,  over  which  one  puzzles  as  to  whether  the 
man  was  named  from  the  land  or  the  land  from 
the  man.*  Stainsgair  is,  or  at  least  in  1596  was, 
in  South  Ronaldshay,  but  at  that  time  it  be- 
longed to  a  family  of  another  name,  and  with  not 
a  very  good  record.  It  is  given  as  "  pertaining  to 
the  Couplands,  the  ane  brother  hangit,  the  other 
banishit  for  theft." 

Little  is  known  of  Stainsgair,  but  he  was 
certainly  in  comfortable  circumstances.  Oliver 
Stainsgair's  daughter,  Grissell,  married  James 
TuUoch  of  Noss,  1620,  with  £100  of  tocherguid.t 
The  name  is  well  known  in  Orkney  at  the  present 
day  under  the  form  Stanger. 

In  1677  tlie  Stainsgair's  land  was  liferented 
by  "Christanc  rusle,  relict  of  umqle  Thomas 
Wilson  of  Hunclet." 

Wilson  of  Hunclet  was  in  his  day  a  pro- 
minent public  man.  He  became  a  bailie  in  1654, 
and  remained  in  the  Council  till  his  death  in 
1676.  He  was  an  elder  in  St.  Magnus,  and  a  pillar  of  the  church.  In  1669,  when  there  had 
been  no  cc^nniiimion  in  the  Cathedral  for  twenty-two  years,  Mr  Wilson,  as  an  elder,  moved 
the  celebration  of  the  Sacrament. 

Chri>tia!i  Russell,  or  Rusland,  was  the  happy  widow  of  two  husbands,  neither  of  whom 
had  clK'^i^ho'l  any  thoughts  of  postmortem  jealousy.  She  lived  in  Thomas  Wilson's  house, 
and  she  liferented  "  the  tenement  of  old  callit  the  Newark  or  foundation  of  the  college  under 
sclaitt  roofe,"  from  George  Smith,  her  first  husband. 

In  IGSn  tlio  house  of  Wilson  of  Hunclet  came  into  possession  of  Patrick  Traill,  merchant, 
and  his  wife,  Elizabeth  Baikie. 

Three  years  later  there  was  trouble  in  the  house  of  Traill :— 8th  August  1689,  "  Saturday 
momin-,  Oonige  Traill,  second  son  to  Patrick  Traill,  merchant  in  Kirkwall,  went  from  this  to 
DeersouiHl,  aid  sailed  with  the  English  man  of  war  without  libertie  asked  from  his  father  or 
mother,  upon  some  discontentment  passed  between  him  and  them."  J 

*  The  Sheriff  Court  books  very  clearly  decide  this  knottv  point.  A  man's  family  name  followed 
by  the  territorial  alias,  will  be  found  recorded  in  a  registered  aocument,  followed  by  another  deed  in 
which  the  family  name  is  dropped  and  the  name  of  the  town  land  substituted. 

t  Court  Books.  J  T.  B. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STBTND.  187 

From  the  Church  Records  it  appears  that  George  wished  to  marry  a  servant  girl,  and 
his  parents  objected  However,  the  young  couple  went  south,  Traill  by  the  man-of-war  and 
the  girl  by  the  ordinary  means  of  transport,  and  they  were  married  in  Edinburgh. 

From  Patrick  Traill  this  house  passed  to  his  son,  David,  whose  daughter,  Elizabeth, 
married  Andrew  Munro,  and  had  her  house  as  part  of  her  dowry. 

Their  son,  Dr  Andrew  Munro,  afterwards  occupied  this  house,  and  was  long  a  medical 
practitioner  in  Kirkwall  He  had  houses  at  the  Thwart  Close,  and  was  for  a  time  in 
prosperous  circumstances.  But  his  wealth  took  wings  and  fled,  and  his  property  was  sold. 
Miss  Munro,  after  her  father's  death,  occupied  a  small  house,  still  standing,  at  the  back  of  the 
family  dwelling  house. 

The  house  south  from  Stainsgair's  Land  was  new  in  1677,  and  "  sua  much  as  is  fineshed  " 
was  occupied  by  William  Davidson,  writer  and  Commissary-Depute,  from  whom  it  received 
the  name  Davidson's  Land.  It  belonged  to  Arthur  Baikie,  and  it  was  for  a  time  occupied  by 
Mr  William  Baikie,  the  founder  of  the  old  Kirkwall  library. 

In  1772  it  was  sold  to  James  Fea  of  Clestndn  and  Grizel  Ross,  his  wife,  by  Janet  Douglas, 
relict  of  James  Baikie  of  Tankemess,  "  Tutrix  sine  qua  7W7i  to  Robert  Baikie,  her  only  son.'' 

Fea  had  been  a  surgeon  in  the  navy,  and  when  he  retired  he  published  a  book  entitled, 
**  The  Present  State  of  the  Orkney  Islands  considered,  with  An  Account  of  their  advantageous 
Situation  and  Conveniences  for  Trade ;  the  Improvements  they  are  capable  of,  etc.  The 
Whole  Calculated  to  shew  by  what  means  their  usefulness  to  the  British  Empire  and  the 
happiness  of  their  own  Inhabitants  may  be  increased.  By  James  Fea,  Surgeon.  Holy- Rood 
House.  Printed  in  the  Year  mdcclxxv."  A  quotation  or  two,  to  show  what  Kirkwall  was 
towards  the  end  of  last  century,  may  not  be  uninteresting  :— 

*'  The  main  Island,  called  Pomona,  is  of  a  very  irregular  shape.  On  the  narrowest  part  of  this 
Island  is  situated  the  Town  of  Kirkwall  and  Parish  of  St.  Ola,  a  populous  and  pretty  large  Town, 
containing  about  1500  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  a  Bay  called  Kirkwall  Bay,  in  a  very  low  and 
marshy  ground,  in  which  the  inhabitants  would  have  but  an  uncomfortable  habitation  were  it  not 
that  the  Tide  comes  up  very  near  the  back  of  the  Town  and  effectually  carries  away  the  filth,  which 
in  such  a  situation  behoved  to  be  very  noxious. 

'*  The  Church,  formerly  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus,  is  an  elegant  Structure,  finished  in  the 
Gothic  taste.  We  had  formerly  a  Castle  of  very  ffreat  strength,  which  was  taken  and  destroved  by 
OUver  Cromwell,  who  carried  the  &;uns  into  England.  One  of  them  is  still  to  be  seen,  which  was 
taken  up  about  twenty  years  ago  oy  Capt.  Evans,  and  which  was  supposed  to  have  fallen  off  the 
Catamaran  in  shipping.  It  is  an  18  pounder,  and  when  first  taken  out  was  as  soft  as  Cheese.  No 
remains  of  this  Castle  are  now  to  be  seen,  it  being  entirely  pulled  down  and  a  new  Prison  built  with 
the  materials.  This  is  a  very  neat  buildins,  the  expence  of  which  was  defrayed  by  James,  late  Earl 
of  Morton,  out  of  the  Fine  which  the  Lords  of  Justiciary  laid  on  the  unhappy  Sir  James  Stewart  of 
Barra  for  assaulting  the  Earl. 

"  There  is  also  a  very  elegant  Mason  Lodge  and  an  Assembly  Room,  neatly  finished  at  the 
expense  of  Sir  Lawerence  Dundas,  who  generouslv  gave  £100  for  that  purpose. 

**  In  Kirkwall  is  also  a  very  good  inn  for  the  entertainment  of  strangers,  where  any  Traveller 
may  be  very  agreeably  lodged. 

'*  The  mhabitants  in  general  are  very  polite,  hospitable,  and  kind  to  strangers  ;  but  I  am  sorry 
to  say,  that  so  little  is  industry  encouraged  in  our  Country,  that  no  means  can  be  assigned  by  whicn 
the  lower  class  of  j^eople  get  their  bread.  By  Reason  of  having  no  employment,  they  must  live  %'ery 
wretchedly  ;  they  become  indolent  and  lazy  to  the  last  degree,  insomuch  that  rather  than  raise 
Cabbage  for  their  own  use  they  will  steal  them  from  others,  and  instead  of  being  at  nains  to  prepare 
the  Turf,  which  they  have  for  the  mere  trouble  of  cutting  up  and  dr3ring,  yet,  ratner  than  do  so, 
they  will  steal  it  from  those  who  are  richer  or  more  industrious  than  themselves.  Thus  they  pass 
their  days  in  wretchedness,  in  ignorance,  and  in  wickedness.  Every  Saturday,  which  day  they  are 
privileged  to  beg,  a  Troop  of  miserable  ragged  creatures  are  seen  going  from  door  to  door,  cdmost 
numerous  enough  to  plunder  the  whole  Town  were  they  to  exert  themselves  against  it  in  an  hostile 
manner,  at  least  if  their  valour  was  in  proportion  to  their  distress. 

"  Formerly,  indeed,  there  was  a  Poor-house  erected  for  the  maintainance  and  employment  of 
some  of  these  poor  creatures  ;  but  it  is  now  entirely  disused  for  that  purpose,  having  been  lately  used 


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188  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  OBKNEYS. 

as  a  shop  and  warehouse.  As  it  is  impossible  to  give  a  good  reason  for  letting  such  an  useful  institu- 
tion go  to  ruin,  I  shall  not  give  any,  but  content  myself  with  a  bare  recital  of  the  fact.  This 
Poor-house  was  in  former  times  the  parish  Church  of  St.  Ola. 

**  One  advantage,  however,  results  from  this  miserable  state  of  our  inhabitants,  namely,  that  they 
are  obliged  to  live  very  much  on  vegetables.  Indeed,  these,  and  a  small  fish  called  the  black  pellack, 
constitute  the  whole  of  their  food.  By  these  Vegetables  they  are  prevented  from  lieing  exterminated 
from  the  face  of  the  Earth  ;  for,  being  situated  pretty  far  to  the  north,  having  the  sea  continually  in 
their  neighbourhood,  and  withal  so  very  indolent  and  inactive,  a  plentiful  use  of  animal  food  would 
soon  cut  them  off  by  bringing  on  the  Scur\'y  and  other  putrid  disorders,  but  of  these  the  Vegetables 
they  eat  from  mere  necessity  are  an  happy  preventative." 

Dr  Fea  speaks  very  highly  of  Orkney  kelp,  and  he  had  a  special  interest  in  that  article, 
for  it  was  a  relative  of  his  who  introduced  the  manufacture  into  the  county. 

He  condemns  the  Orcadian  methods  of  farming  and  stock  breeding,  recommends  greater 
enterprise  in  herring,  cod,  and  whale  fishing,  and  records  the  fact  that  "  a  proposal  was  lately 
made  to  Mr  Kidderminster,  the  great  fishmonger  at  London,  to  deliver  him  annually  in 
Orkney  95,000  lobsters  at  Id  each.  But  this  he  did  not  accept,  as  it  hath  been  found  by 
experience  that  these  fish  which  are  caught  in  shallow  water  and  a  strong  Tide  are  so  exceed- 
ingly rich  that  they  cannot  bear  confinement,  or  the  brackish  water  on  the  coast  of  England ; 
and,  therefore,  in  long  voyages,  vast  numbers  of  them  die  and  become  good  for  nothing." 

*  *  At  the  north  end  of  the  town  is  a  fort  built  by  the  English  during  Crom  well's  usurpation, 
ditched  about  with  a  breastwork  and  other  fortifications,  on  which  they  have  some  cannons  planted 
for  the  defence  of  the  place. 

"  The  gentlemen  in  Kirkwall,  as  well  as  the  nteaner  sort,  have  adopted  the  English  dress, 
excepting  that  the  latter  wear  boimets  instead  of  hats,  which  are  knit  chiefly  at  Kilmarnock  in 
Scotland,  and  are  exceeding  cheap  for  the  convenience  of  the  islanders. 

"  Football  playing  is  the  principal  diversion  of  the  common  people,  which  they  practice  with 
great  dexterity. 

"  The  fair,  called  Lammwt  fairy  is  held  by  charter  in  the  beginning  of  August,  and  is  one  of  the 
privileges  of  the  town  of  Kirkwall.  On  this  occasion  the  people  from  all  the  islands,  as  well  as  from 
the  mainland,  resort  to  the  town,  together  with  numbers  of  merchants  from  Banff  and  Murrayshire, 
Caithness,  etc.,  with  goods  of  various  kinds  suited  to  the  demands  of  the  coimtry  people.  To  prevent 
quarrels,  which  frequently  happened,  and  often  proved  very  fatal  to  many  of  the  parties  on  these 
occasions,  it  has  been  thought  proper  by  the  provost  and  magistrates  to  form  a  body  of  militia, 
composed  of  the  inhabitants,  who  are  regularly*  trained  up  in  the  use  of  arms  and  other  military 
exercises  ;  this  is  called,  in  the  provincial  dialect,  Weapoii-shawing. 

**  Thus  the  public  tranquility  is  maintained,  and  the  merchants,  as  well  as  the  country  people, 
may  sell  without  molestation  their  commodities,  the  latter  vending  the  articles  manufactured  by 
themselves,  as  blankets,  stockings,  linen  cloth  of  different  qualities,  cattle,  horses,  etc.  But  the 
firths  and  other  inlets  are  the  principal  checks  on  violence  and  depredations,  for  upon  the  least  alarm 
of  that  kind  the  ferries  are  stopped  and  the  delinquents  taken  and  punished. 

"  The  entertainment  for  the  gentlemen  is  golf,  bowling,  fishing,  fowling,  curling  on  the  ice  in 
hard  frosts,  and  such  like  manly  exercises.  Cock  fighting  at  times  is  also  pnictised,  and  the  few 
eame-cocks  kept  in  the  island  are  not  inferior  to  those  of  England  in  point  of  spirit  and  courage.  Our 
bull-dogs  are  equally  fierce,  and  it  is  probable  that  this  courage  is  more  owiiig  to  the  climate  than  to 
the  nature  of  the  animal,  for  if  conveyed  into  foreign  regions  they  degenerate. 

"  The  power  of  the  admiralty-court  is  in  these  islands  very  great,  the  jurisdiction  of  that  court 
taking  cognizance  of  all  trespasses  committed  in  ports,  harbours,  creeks,  and  within  flood  mark. 
The  deputy  is  styled  the  King's  justice  general  up(yii  the  secu%  and  nothing  relative  to  his  jurisdiction 
can  be  interferea  with,  in  the  first  instance,  but  by  the  Lords  of  the  admiralty.  There  are  other 
causes  resorting  to  his  court  such  as  piracies,  seizing  prohibited  or  fraudulently-imported  goods, 
breaking  arrtatments  or  attachnients  ana  resisting  his  precepts,  procuring  passes  and  certificates  in 
maritime  cases  other  than  from  the  admiralty,  transporting  beyond  the  seas  traitors,  rebels,  disorderly 
persons,  fugitives,  in  defiance  of  justice  ;  throwing  sand  or  ballast  into  harbours,  taking  away  buoys, 
cutting  cables,  committing  murder  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  court,  punishment  of  offences 
committed  within  his  jurisaiction  by  mai'iners,  etc." 

**  This  is  a  proper  place  to  give  some  singular  instances  of  longevity  in  our  islands. 

**  George  Paplay,  born  in  the  island  of  Westra,  died  at  the  very  great  age  of  129  years. 

*'  Mr  Martin  relates  his  knowins  a  gentleman  in  the  island  of  Stronsay  wlio  had  a  son  in  the  110 
year  of  his  age,  and  he  knew  one  William  Muir  who  died  at  the  age  of  140. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRTND.  189 

"  When  Mr  Martin  was  in  the  Hebrides  or  Western  Islands  of  Scotland  he  says  be- knew  a  man 
of  the  name  of  Gillouir  M 'Grain  who  had  kept  180  Christmasses  in  his  own  house." 

Dr  Fea  has  no  doubt  as  to  Mr  Martin's  veracity. 

The  Doctor's  book  furnishes  abundant  internal  evidence  that  it  was  not  written  in 
Kirkwall.  It  shows,  moreover,  that  even  as  a  youth  he  could  not  have  been  acquainted  with 
the  topography  of  the  town.  In  1775,  the  year  of  publication,  and  for  nearly  a  hundred  years 
afterwards,  there  was  enough  of  the  old  Castle  left  to  fix  its  site. 

Again,  his  description  of  Saturday  evening  mendicancy  is  much  exaggerated.  Long 
before  his  day  the  authorities  had  the  beggars  under  complete  control.  The  Council  "  ordains 
the  Lockman  to  go  through  the  town  every  Saturday  and  take  notice  of  such  vaging  persons 
as  trouble  the  Burgh,  and  take  his  whip  and  beat  them  furth  of  the  privileges  of  the  town."  * 

Andrew  Strang,  tacksman  of  Lopness,  bought  Davidson's  Land  from  James  Fea  of 
Clestrain.  Lopness  has  a  kelp  shore  unsurpassed  by  that  of  any  farm  in  the  islands,  and, 
considering  the  prices  then  current,  Andrew  Strang  could  well  afford  a  town  house. 

In  1802,  William  Strang  succeeded  his  father  in  Lopness,  and  in  "All  and  whole  the 
Tenement  of  Land  and  houses  thereon,  lately  built  and  repaired  from  the  foundation,  called 
Davidson's  Houses,  with  the  yard  lately  enclosed  with  a  stone  dyke."  The  kelp  business  was 
still  flourishing,  but  young  Strang  had  acquired  expensive  tastes.  He  had  been  for  some  time 
in  a  London  office,  and  required  to  spend  a  part  of  each  year  in  the  great  metropolis. 
Accordingly,  we  soon  find  him  bonowing  from  his  stepmother  a  sum  of  £360,  and  giving  a 
bond  on  this  property.  This  was  redeemed  by  the  help  of  David  Geddes,  Esq.,  residing  in 
Stromness,  and  William  Strang  paid  off  his  obligation  by  marrying  Miss  Geddes.  But,  some 
years  later,  he  granted  a  fresh  bond  to  James  Shearer,  merchant,  with  the  result  that,  in  1823, 
Davidson's  house  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  bondholder.  The  property  now  belongs 
to  Messrs  Cursiter  Brothers,  and  is  occupied  as  an  hotel. 

South  of  Davidson's  house  was  the  "Great  Lodging"  of  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound. 
Its  yard  originally  included  the  site  of  the  present  Union  Bank.  On  the  west  side  of  the 
street,  Buchanan  had  another  great  open  space  extending  to  the  Oyce,  and  having  a  frontage 
equal  to  that  of  his  Great  Lodging  with  its  adjoining  yard.  In  1676  this  whole  property  had 
a  valued  rental  of  £195. 

Buchanan  was  a  large  land  owner.  In  1668  he  bought  Towquoy,  in  Westray,  from  Robert 
Stewart  of  Ethay  for  8000  merks,  and  two  years  afterwards  sold  it  "  to  William  Monteith  and 
Marie  Monteith,  his  spouse,  second  lawful  daughter  of  umql.  Patrick  Monteith  of  Egilshay." 

When  Arthur  Buchanan's  widow  desired  her  terce,  the  property  of  her  late  husband  was 
scheduled,  and  Arthur  Baikie  prosecuted  the  widow's  claim. 

The  estate  comprised  lands  in  Kendall,  Evie,  Birsay,  Harray,  Sandwick,  and  Firth  on  the 
Mainland,  also  a  great  part  of  Shapinsay,  of  Stronsay,  and  the  whole  of  North  Ronaldshay, 
Besides  this  there  was  a  large  amount  of  house  proi)erty  in  Kirkwall. 

Arthur's  daughter,  Marjorie,  married  her  cousin,  John  Buchanan  of  Sandside,  1669.  His 
widow,  Margaret  Buxtoun,  life-rented  the  "  Great  Lodging  "  and  some  other  houses  in  town. 
She  afterwards  married  Captain  James  Mackenzie,  and  survived  him. 

When  Arthur  Baikie  transacted  business  for  Margaret  Buxtoun,  many  letters  passed 
between  them,  those  of  the  lady  exhibiting  a  beauty  of  penmanship,  rare  in  those  days,  and 
which  contrasted  strangely  with  the  merchant's  crabbed  hand. 

**  Sound,  6  June  1676. 
"  I  was  in  the  toun  yisterdaye,  and  thought  to  have  seen  you,  and  to  have  spoken  to  you  anent  that 
particular  I  ordered  the  bearer  to  speak  of  a  month  agoe,  for,  truly,  Sir,  there  is  non  in  the  Cuntry  I 

*C.  R.,  27th  June  1694. 


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190  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNETS. 

will  use  that  freedom  with  or  relayes  so  much  upon  as  your  self  in  this  or  enything  else  concemes  me, 
therefor  I  intreat  that  you  will  doe  me  the  faver  to  let  me  have  fyve  hundreth  merks  till  whitsunday 
nizt ;  but  I  hope,  god  willing,  to  paye  it  sooner,  and  what  seurtie  I  can  give  you  ye  shall  have  ;  your 
ansuer  I  expect  wiui  the  bearer  ;  no  more  at  put. ,  but  your  good  health  and  bedfellow's  shall  ever  be 
wisht  be  her  who  is,  Sir,  Your  oblidged  friend  and  servant,  Maroabet  Bxtxtoun." 

Baikie,  as  was  his  habit  with  all  his  letters,  covered  the  blank  side  of  this  one  with  very 
closely  written  memoranda.  He  has  items  numbered  up  to  15,  and  then  follow  miscellaneous 
jottings  on  various  matters  of  public  business.  Item  No.  7  is  "  to  call  for  the  proses  and 
dilegense  contra  ladie  sound  and  geo.  hardie  wth  yr  accomplisches,  and  considder  qt  course  be 
taken  yrin,  in  regard  ladie  sound  is  going  off  the  cuntraye  emediatlie." 

Probably  in  the  County  Buildings  may  yet  be  found  the  "  process  and  diligence  contra  " 
the  Lady  of  Sound  and  George  Hardie,  chirurgeon,  with  their  accomplices ;  but  whatever  the 
ease  may  have  been,  it  is  obvious  that  there  was  a  scandal,  and  Baikie's  suspicion  evidently 
was  that  Lady  Sound  wanted  the  600  merks  to  take  her  out  of  Orkney. 

Sound's  town-house  formed  three  sides  of  a  square,  and  in  1673,  in  Margaret  Buxtoun's 
lifetime,  the  south  wing  was  let  to  George  Ritchie,  Bishop  Honyman's  chamberlain  and 
gimell-man. 

At  this  time  Ritchie  was  a  widower,  and  here  arose  one  of  the  most  gossip-satisfying 
scandals  that  ever  interested  Kirkwall.  The  story,  which  had  better  be  given  in  the  words  of 
the  Session-Clerk,  goes  to  show  how,  in  the  seventeenth  century,  the  good  women  of  Kirkwall 
took  charge  of  the  morals  of  their  neighbours.    On  Monday,  22nd  December  1673  : — 

"  The  Session  was  closed  with  prayer.  After  the  Session,  the  minister  went,  along  with  Over- 
■anday,  accompanied  with  John  Caldell,  Patrick  Traill,  Yr.,  William  Mudie,  and  the  Clerk,  for 
examination  of  Jean  Graham,  spouse  to  Oversanday,  who,  in  presence  aforesaid,  did  declare  as  follows, 
viz.,  that  upon  the  fourtein  oi  October  last,  being  Tuesday,  about  eight  hours  at  nieht,  as  she  was 
coming  out  of  William  Young's  house,*  she  and  Barbara  Moncrieff,  spouse  to  the  said  William,  being 
in  the  close,  did  see  Elspeit  Ballenden  coming  in  by  alongst  them,  and  went  up  to  George  Ritchie's 
chamber,  whereupon  William  Young's  wife  did  putt  upon  her,  and  said,  '  Look,  for  this  is  not  the 
first  tym.'  Afterwards  the  said  Jean  declared  that  she  went  down  to  Captain  Drummond's,t  and 
Btayea  with  her  husband  ther,  and  supped,  and  neir  ten  sent  ane  servant  to  try  if  the  said  Elspeit 
wes  come  home,  who  returned  and  tola  that  she  wes  not  come.  And  having  sone  home  with  hir 
husband,  she  sent  another  servant  about  eleven  hours,  who  also  declared  that  Eupeit  was  not  come 
home  as  yet.  Whereupon  Oversanday,  being  suspituous  of  the  said  Elspet  because  of  some  reports  of 
her,  desired  his  said  spouse,  about  twelve  hours  at  night,  to  tak  a  servant  alongst  with  hir  and  eoe 
downe  to  baylie  Moncrief  s  wife,$  and  wait  with  hir  uutill  the  said  Elspet  came  home,  to  examine  her 
where  she  had  bein.  And  both  of  them  stayed  in  the  said  Elspet's  chamber  till  daylight  in  the 
morning.  At  which  tym  Elspet  came,  and  the  said  Jean  asked  hir  where  she  had  bein  all  night,  said 
that  she  wes  with  Marjorie  Coventrie  §  ;  whereupon  the  said  Jean  did  rise  and  went  away  to  try  the 
truth.  Then  the  said  Elspet  did  call  her  back  again  to  tell  the  tinith  ;  and  after  she  had  declared  her 
being  in  George  Ritchie's  chamber  all  niffht,  before  hirselfe,  baylie  moncrief  s  wife,  and  diverse  others 
who  were  also  present,  the  said  Jean  did  reprove  her  sharplie  ;  whereto  Elspet  replyed  that  she  was 
alse  honest  a  woman  as  hirselfe  ;  at  which  uncivil  compansone  the  said  Jean  confessed  she  gave  her 
ane  cuffe  onlie,  and  no  more,  which  the  said  Jean  declared  to  be  true  with  ane  oath,  adding  that  ther 
wes  no  more  wrong  or  violence  offered  or  done  to  the  said  Elspet,  as  baylie  moncriefTs  wife  and  the 
rest  of  them  that  wer  present  can  testifie  to  be  of  veritie." 

**  In  presence  foresaid,  compeired  Issobell  Andersone,  spouse  to  david  Moncriefe,  bailie  (her 
husband  also  being  present),  and  declared  in  all  poynts  conforme  to  oversanda's  wife's  declaration. 
Adding  that  the  forsaid  Elspet  ballenden  abused  the  abovenamed  Jean  with  base  words,  at  which 
words  the  said  Jean  gave  the  forsd.  Elspet  onlie  a  little  cuffe,  and  saw  no  more  violence  offired  to  hir 
any  wayes." 

And  now  the  frail  Elspet,  being  badgered  weekly  by  the  Session,  apparently  sought  to 

*  Castleyards. 

t  Captain  David  Drummond  married  Christiam  Graham,  daughter  of  Mr  Patrick  Graham  of 
Grahamshall,  13th  January  1673.     They  lived  in  the  house  called  the  Gallery. 
X  Harbour  Street.  §  Bridge  Street. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STBYND.  191 

make  away  with  herself.  "  Ifc  was  reported  that  the  said  Elspet,  since  her  confession  befor 
my  lord  bishop,  was  sick  and  vomiting  blood,  being  alledged  to  have  drunk  a  potion  of 
physick.**  The  ecclesiastical  tribunal  held  the  unhappy  woman  dangling  before  the  public 
gaze,  till,  at  their  meeting  on  5th  January  of  the  following  year,  "  it  was  reported  to  the 
Session  that  Elspet  ballenden  went  away  privetlie  from  this  towne  on  Friday  last.  Desyres 
the  eldars  to  search  and  enquyre  diligenlie  whither  she  is  gone.''  By  next  meeting  it  was 
discovered  that  the  fugitive  had  gone  to  Stromness.  A  letter  was  accordingly  sent  off,  post 
haste,  to  Mr  George  Honyman  to  arrest  and  send  her  back  to  Kirkwall.  She  had,  however, 
taken  ship  for  the  south.  Having  traced  her  to  Leith,  "  Ordaines  to  writt  ane  letter  to  the 
comon  Session  of  Edinburgh  in  reference  to  Elizabeth  Ballenden,  who  is  reported  to  be  ther," 

Towards  the  end  of  May  she  ventured  back,  but  was  immediately  pounced  upon  by  the 
elders ;  and,  on  4th  June,  "  It  was  reported  that  Elspit  Ballenden  was  again  turned  fugitive 
to  the  discipline  of  the  church  in  going  back  again  with  James  Graham's  veshell,  with  which 
she  came  hither."    With  this  the  poor  creature  disappears  from  our  local  history. 

Buchanan's  house,  with  its  two  great  yards,  next  became  the  property  of  the  Earl  of 
Morton,  and  his  lordship,  not  yet  having  yard  enough,  applied  for  more,  and  got  it.  "  The 
Earle  of  Morton,  who  now  lives  in  this  place,  desires  the  ferm  of  the  meikle  kirk  yard."*  This 
was  the  space  on  the  north  side  of  the  church,  in  which  till  long  after  this  time  there  were 
no  interments. 

The  church  never  lost  sight  of  the  value  of  this  part  of  the  churchyard.  "  Ordains  David 
Seater  to  keep  up  the  kirk  yard  deik,  to  take  the  grass  thereof  for  his  paines." 

Sometimes  the  Session  kept  it  in  their  own  hands.  Beasts  might  be  grazed  in  it  at 
fourteen  shillings  per  head,  the  money  to  be  paid  to  the  Session.t  "  Tankerness  to  have  the 
grass  of  the  meikle  kirkyard  for  three  pounds  Scots."  J  The  tenants  were  strictly  protected 
in  their  rights.    "  Four-footed  beasts  "  found  trespassing  were  forfeited. § 

In  1769,  Morton's  Great  Lodging  was  sold  to  Thomas  Lindsay.  Lindsay  was  a  notary 
public,  and  came  to  Kirkwall  as  clerk  to  Andrew  Ross,  factor  for  the  Earl  of  Morton. 

In  the  "  Pundlar  Process,"  "  James  Spence,  Writer  in  Kirhwall,  and  Town  Clerk,  depones 
That  Thomas  Liiidsay^  Merchant  in  Kirkwall,  is  a  Counsellor  of  the  said  Burgh,  and  is 
Nephew  to  the  Defender's  Doer ;  at  least  he  is  habite  and  repute  so." 

William,  brother  of  Thomas  Lindsay,  was  a  linen  manufacturer,  and  he  was  engaged  by 
Mr  Ross  to  introduce  this  industry  into  Orkney.  He  did  so  and  made  a  large  business, 
employing  many  looms  in  Kirkwall  and  in  the  West  Mainland.  The  Factor  made  his  tenants 
cultivate  flax,  and  William  Lindsay  saw  to  the  steeping,  dressing,  heckling,  spinning,  weaving, 
and  bleaching.  Birsay,  from  its  excellent  water  supply,  possessing  as  it  does  the  nearest 
approach  to  a  river  that  Orkney  can  show,  was  Lindsay's  bleachfield.  Lindsay  became 
wealthy,  bought  Caldale,  and  lived  there. 

"  Thomas  Johnston  of  Beay  Tenant  to  the  Earl  of  Morton,  depones  That  he  knows  of  none 
in  the  Parish  of  Birsay,  where  he  lives,  that  have  either  the  L^se  or  the  Knowledge  of  Stones, 
Pounds,  or  Ounces  excepting  the  Relict  of  Thomas  Heddal,  who  was  a  Dealer  in  that  Parish, 
and  William  Lindsay,  Manufacturer  there,  who  used  such  Weights." 

Thomas  Lindsay  married  Anne,  daughter  of  Henry  Rose,  Collector  of  Customs  in  Zetland, 
and  a  large  family  of  sons  and  daughters  romped  through  the  Earl  of  Morton's  Great 
Lodging.  Some  of  them  died  in  early  life,  and  the  sons  who  reached  manhood  did  not  wed. 
One  of  these,  Harry,  was  engaged  to  Miss  Ann  Balfour,  and  on  his  death  that  lady  put  up  a 

•  S.  R.,  2nd  Mar.  1713.  t  S.  R.,  27th  Feb.  1688. 

:  S.  R.,  15th  May  1693.  §  S.  R.,  29th  Aug.  1692. 


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192  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

monument  to  his  memory  in  St.  Magnus  Churchyard.*    Mr  Lindsay  had  two  daughter 
Margaret,  who  married  Mr  Balfour  Stewart,  and  Catherine,  who  became  the  second  wife  of 
Andrew  Strang,  farmer  in  Lopness. 

Mr  Watt  of  Skaill,  writing  to  Mr  Craig,  of  the  Grammar  School,  about  the  Lindsays, 
Jan.  1848,  says  : — "  I  perfectly  remember  their  deaths  taking  place,  but  cannot  name  the 
dates.  Thomas  died  in  his  own  house  in  Kirkwall.  William  died  at  Caldale.  Both  of  them 
had  for  years  previous  to  their  deaths  been  confined  to  their  houses  by  infirmity.  I  remember 
seeing  them  both  in  that  state.  In  William's  I  once  was  entertained  with  Punch  made  in  a 
Teapot    The  last  time  I  saw  Thomas  I  called  to  introduce  Sir  Charles  Ross  of  Balnagowan." 

Dr  Groat,  the  next  proprietor  of  the  Great  Lodging,  and  the  builder  of  the  house  that 
now  occupies  the  north  and  east  sides  of  the  site,  was  descended  from  the  Groats  of  Caithness. 

Somewhere  in  the  reign  of  James  IV.,  1488-1513,  three  brothers,  Malcolm,  Gavin,  and 
John  Groat  or  Grot,  supposed  to  be  Hollanders,  came  to  Caithness. 

In  1496,  John  got  a  grant  from  William,  Earl  of  Caithness,  of  a  pennyland  in  Dungalsby, 
In  1609,  Donald  Groat  of  Warse  was  killed  in  a  fray  in  Kirkwall.  The  Groats  for  a  time 
farmed  the  Pentland  ferry,  t  The  ferry  was  out  of  their  hands  in  1626,  for  in  that  year  Hew 
Halcro  of  that  ilk  granted  to  Edward  Ireland  and  Helen  Grot,  his  spouse,  "  Tack  of  the  6 
penny  land  of  Burwick,  ane  penny  land  of  Gossegair,  and  Ferry  of  Pictland  Firth  for  three 
years."  It  reverted  to  the  Groats,  and  in  1741  William  Sinclair  of  Freswick  acquired  from 
Malcolm  Groat  the  ferry-house  and  the  Groat  lands  in  Dungalsby.  In  1749,  Malcolm  Groat 
of  Warse  is  addressed  by  Donald  Groat,  merchant,  Kirkwall,  as  cousin.  This  Donald  seems 
to  have  come  over  the  ferry  in  1709,  for  in  1767  he  depones  that  he  had  known  Orkney  for 
about  forty-eight  years. 

Malcolm  Groat  of  Warse,  writer,  Kirkwall,  died  1772,  and  a  mural  tablet  of  white  marble 
in  the  south  nave  aisle  of  the  Cathedral  gives  the  names— Malcolm  Groat  of  Wards ;  his 
relative,  Donald  Groat,  Esq.  of  Newhall,  chamberlain  of  the  bishopric ;  and  Dr  Robert  Groat 
and  William  Groat,  sons  of  Donald— with  the  statement,  "  They  all  died  during  the  eighteenth 
century." 

Dr  Robert  Groat,  named  above,  is  designated  physician,  London. 

In  1828,  Dr  Robert,  who  rebuilt  this  house,  died  in  Bath,  where  he  had  gone  for  the 
benefit  of  the  waters,  and  the  following  year  Alexr.  Graeme  Groat  sold  the  property  to  Dr 
Duguid,  son  of  the  Rev.  John  Duguid,  of  Evie  and  Rendall.  The  minister  was  a  man  in 
advance  of  his  times.  He  married  Miss  Jean  Bremner,  and  as  child  after  child  was  born  in 
the  manse,  he  vaccinated  them  with  his  own  hand,  and  having  thus  demonstrated  his 
confidence  in  the  new  safeguard  against  smallpox,  he  was  able  to  induce  his  parishioners  to 
submit  to  similar  treatment.  In  simple  ailments,  with  no  doctor  resident  in  the  parish,  the 
clergyman  dosed  his  people,  who  had  perfect  confidence  in  his  skill.  Thus  Alexander  Duguid, 
from  his  childhood  made  familiar  with  elementary  medical  and  surgical  practice,  took 
naturally  to  such  studies.  He  was  a  keen  and  careful  observer  of  nature,  and  became  an 
authority  on  the  fauna  and  flora  of  Orkney.  He  married  Elizabeth  Annie  Mackenzie,  a 
direct  descendent  of  the  Bishop.  Mrs  Duguid  was  buried  in  the  south  transept  chapel  of 
the  Cathedral,  where  the  venerable  Murdoch  had  been  laid,  this  privilege  having  been 
granted  by  the  Kirk  Session,  9th  October  1693,  to  Bishop  Mackenzie's  "children  and  grand- 
children and  theirs." 

*  It  is  of  white  marble,  and  was  at  the  time  of  its  erection  without  doubt  the  most  beautiful  piece 
of  work  in  the  burying  ground.     It  is  now  going  to  ruin,  but  the  inscription  is  still  quite  legible. 

t  In  Caithness  it  is  commonly  said  that  the  oriffin  of  the  family  name  was  the  **  groat "  that  was 
charged  as  freight  for  each  passenger  crossing  the  ferry.  Qrote,  however,  is  a  common  family  name 
in  Holland. 


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LONG  GUTTEB  TO  STRYND.  193 

In  1872  Dr  Duguid  died,  and  the  following  year  the  house  was  sold  to  Mr  John  Cursiter, 
merchant,  who  did  much  to  improve  the  interior.  Mr  Cursiter  was  a  man  of  enterprise,  and 
established  for  himself  a  very  extensive  business.  Long  before  Kirkwall  had  a  water  supply 
by  gravitation,  Mr  Cursiter  had  his  laboratory  at  Junction  Road  furnished  with  an  abundant 
flow,  led  in  pipes  from  the  slope  of  Grainbank. 

Messrs  Macrae  &  Robertson,  solicitors,  the  present  owners  and  occupiers  of  what  represents 
the  Great  LodgiDg  of  Buchanan  of  Sound,  purchased  the  place  from  Miss  Cursiter  in  1892. 

The  house  lately  occupied  and  owned  by  Mr  Anderson,  bookseller,  popularly  known  as 
"  Solomon,"  now  the  property  of  Mr  Morgan,  watchmaker,  represents  part  of  the  Buchanan 
mansion,  and  therefore  does  not  appear  in  the  older  rentals. 

The  tenement  south  of  the  last  had  belonged  to  the  Halcros  of  Crook,  but  had  been 
purchased  by  Arthur  Buchanan,  whose  widow,  in  1677,  had  the  liferent  of  it.  "  Item,  ye  sd, 
relict  lyferents  ane  uthr  double  tenement,  ye  most  pt.  yrof  under  sclaitte  roofe,  and  ane  pt. 
yrof  towards  the  street,  ruinous,  without  roof  and  walls,  qch  ptained  of  old  to  the  halcrois  of 
Cruik,  betwixt  the  said  great  tenement  on  the  north,  the  waste  ground  and  tenement 
sometyme  ptaining  to  umql  Oliver  Linay  and  now  to  Patrick  Murray,  not.  publick,  on  the 
south,  the  lane  towards  Pabdale  on  the  east,  and  the  hie  street  on  the  west." 

In  the  valuation  of  1712,  the  Crook  mansion  belonged  to  Mungo  Buchanan,  notary 
public.  Among  its  tenants  was  Mr  Murdoch  Mackenzie,  who  had  been  a  teacher  in  the 
Grammar  School,  but  who  is  better  remembered  now  by  his  chart  of  the  Orkney  Islands. 

This  house  afterwards  belonged  to  Honyman  of  Graemsay,  from  whom  it  passed  to  John 
Reid,  one  of  Kirkwall's  prosperous  merchants.  The  Rev.  George  Reid,  who  had  been  master 
of  the  Grammar  School,  was,  in  1743,  sent  as  a  missionary  to  the  Fair  Isle.  After  labouring 
there  for  nine  years,  he  was  presented  by  James,  Earl  of  Morton,  to  the  parish  of  Nesting,  in 
Shetland.  Before  leaving  Orkney  he  had,  in  1730,  married  Isobel,  daughter  of  Patrick  Traill, 
merchant,  and  grand-daughter  of  George  Traill  of  Holland.  They  had  a  son,  John,  and  four 
daughters.  One  of  these  daughters  married  an  Omond  in  the  Fair  Isle,  and  John  Reid, 
having  no  son,  left  this  and  much  house  property  besides  to  his  nephew,  George  Omond,  who 
came  to  live  in  Kirkwall. 

Besides  the  usual  condition,  that  George  should  pay  his  uncle's  funeral  expenses  and 
debts,  the  properties  were  burdened  with  certain  annuities  to  the  testator's  sisters.  Two  of 
these,  Rosa  and  Margaret — or,  as  they  were  named  in  the  Records  of  Sasine,  Rosie  and 
Peggie— were  liferented  in  this  house,  which,  judging  by  the  number  of  tenants,  must  have 
yielded  a  very  good  annuity  to  the  ladies. 

In  1801,  when  Omond  took  possession,  these  tenants  were — James  Smith,  writer ; 
T.  Flett,  J.  Scarth,  W.  Patten,  merchants ;  J.  Anderson,  S.  ScoUay,  A.  Priest,  shoemakers ; 
P.  Flett,  post ;  J.  Foulis,  sailor  ;  J.  Spence,  heckler ;  J.  Eunson,  weaver ;  and  J.  Sinclair,  book- 
binder. If  each  of  these  represented  a  family,  this  tenement  was  somewhat  crowded,  and  for 
continuous  din  during  the  hours  of  labour,  must  have  been  as  cheerful  as  a  factory.  The 
scratch  of  the  writer's  pen  could  scarcely  have  been  heard  outside  his  door,  but  the  noise  of 
the  lapstones  and  the  looms  would  penetrate  every  corner  of  this  human  hive. 

George  Omond  died,  1st  February  1813,  and  left  his  property  to  his  two  sons— John,  after- 
wards Dr  Omond,  Free  Church  minister,  Monzie  ;  and  Robert,  afterwards  M.D.,  Edinburgh, 
and  sometime  President  of  the  College  of  Surgeons.  To  the  latter  fell  the  house  under 
consideration.  It  was  still  held,  however,  by  his  grand-aunts  in  liferent.  They  laid  out  no 
money  on  the  place,  and  the  house  and  its  inmates  deteriorated  together.  The  writers, 
merchants,  and  well-to-do  artizans  found  more  comfortable  quarters  elsewhere,  and  only  such 
tenants  as  could  afford  no  better  accommodation  remained.    Thus,  in  one  of  the  apartments 

2c 


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194  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

of  the  decayed  dwelling,  we  find  a  couple  who  eiyoyed  a  hand-to-mouth  existence.  The  man 
was  a  maker  of  lamps,  and,  from  the  material  in  which  he  wrought,  was  known  as  "  Brassy." 
Sometimes,  when  "  Brassy  "  had  finished  a  lamp  to  order  or  on  speculation,  his  wife  managed 
to  smuggle  it  out  and  sell  it.  On  such  occasions  she  invariably  returned  in  a  state  of  intoxi- 
cation. Then  there  was  war.  One  day,  after  the  couple  had  passed  through  the  ordeal 
of  a  mutual  explani&tion,  a  neighbour  met  them,  and  seeing  the  woman  with  two  very 
expressive  black  eyes,  asked  the  husband  why  he  did  not  murder  his  wife  outright.  "  Brassy" 
calmly  replied  that  he  had  often  thought  of  doing  so,  but  considered  it  a  pity  that  a  man  of 
his  ability  should  swing  for  a  creature  like  her.  His  ability  was  admited  in  his  own  day,  and 
among  Orkney  cruisies  none  were  considered  so  elegant  as  those  made  by  "  Brassy." 

Dr  Omond  sold  this  tenement  to  the  directors  of  the  Union  Bank  of  Scotland,  who  put 
up  the  handsome  edifice  which  now  occupies  the  site.  The  Kirkwall  agency  was  opened,  15th 
August  1855,  by  the  late  Robert  Scarth,  Esq.  of  Binscarth.  The  office  was  the  house  at  the 
corner  of  the  Long  Gutter,  formerly  the  residence  of  the  Baikies  of  Burness  and  of  the 
Mackenzies  of  Groundwater,  and  now  part  of  the  business  premises  of  Samuel  Reid,  Esq.  of 
Braebuster.  The  inception  of  the  bank,  however,  goes  back  to  Mr  Scarth's  father,  who  in  his 
shop  in  the  Laverock  received  deposits  for  the  banking  house  of  Sir  William  Forbes  in 
Edinburgh. 

Occupying  the  site  from  the  Union  Bank  to  the  foot  of  the  Strynd,  was  the  house  "  of  old 
called  the  Ridgeland."*  As  far  back  as  it  can  be  traced,  it  belonged  to  George  Smith  of 
Rapness,  then  to  Andrew  Smith  of  Hurteso,  two  brothers  of  Patrick  Smith  of  Braco.  It  next 
belonged  to  Oliver  Linay,  whose  daughter,  Anna,  brought  it  as  part  of  her  dowry  to  her 
husband,  Patrick  Murray,  notary  public.  From  Murray  the  Magistrates  rented  this  house  to 
be  the  Tolbooth,  and  for  nearly  a  hundred  years  it  did  duty  as  a  Town  Hall  and  Prison. 

When  a  new  Town  Hall  was  built  on  the  Kirk  Green,  the  Council  sold  the  old  Tolbooth 
to  Robert  Morrison,  Procurator-Fiscal,  whose  daughter  sold  it  to  Mr  Robert  Grant,  merchant, 
then  tenant  of  a  house  in  the  Strynd.  Mr  Grant  was  the  son  of  the  Rev.  Alex  Grant,  translated 
to  South  Ronaldshay  in  1699  from  Fala  and  Soutra,  in  Haddingtonshire.  It  would  almost  seem 
that  love  led  the  minister  northward,  for  shortly  after  his  induction  he  was  married  to 
Sibilla,  daughter  of  James  Baikie  of  Burness.  When  Mr  Grant  came  to  his  new  charge  he 
found  that  the  superstitions  of  Orkney  differed  from  those  of  the  Lammermoors  as  widely  as 
the  habits  of  fishermen  differ  from  those  of  upland  shepherds.  He  complained  that  he  had 
been  twice  interrupted  in  administering  baptism  when  taking  a  girl  before  a  boy,  because  his 
parishioners  believed  that  by  so  doing  he  would  give  the  girl  a  beard,  which  she  did  not  want, 
while  the  boy  would  be  robbed  of  his  capillary  birthright.  He  also  tells  that  none  of  his 
people  will  marry  except  under  a  waxing  moon  and  during  a  flowing  tide — a  notion  not  yet 
extinct  in  Orkney. 

Mr  Grant,  proprietor  of  the  Ridgeland,  gained  some  distinction  as  a  sportsman  among  his 
fellow-townsmen.  "Robert  Grant,  son  of  the  deceased  Mr  Alexander  Grant,  minister  of 
South  Ronaldshay,  obtained  decreet  from  the  Sheriff  for  2/-  Scots  from  each  reekt  in  the 
Parish  of  St.  Ola,  in  terms  of  Acts  or  Regulations  of  the  County  of  Orkney,  for  having  shot 
an  aerne  or  Eagle  in  the  Parish,  of  which  he  had  delivered  head  and  feet  and  wings  to  the 
Baillie  of  said  Parish,  in  order  to  be  presented  to  first  head  Court,  and  now  craves  the  Sheriff 
to  ordain  the  Baillie  to  obtain  for  him  from  each  Reek-house  in  the  parish,  except  Cottars, 
who  have  no  sheep,  the  sum  of  two  shillings."  J  This  was  probably  the  last  eagle  shot  in  St. 
Ola,  and  the  last  paid  for  under  the  old  "  Acts  or  Regulations." 

Along  with  his  house,  Robert  Grant  bought  from  Margaret  Morrison,  as  its  peat-brae, 
*  Arthur  Buchanan's  titles.  t  Inhabited  house.  J  S.  R.,  18th  July  1732. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND.  195 

*'  the  just  and  equal  half  of  that  piece  of  waste  ground  upon  the  north  side  of  the  old  ruinous 
Castle,  extending  to  three  score  and  eight  feet  of  rule  from  east  to  west  and  twenty-eight  feet 
of  rule  from  south  to  north." 

In  1791,  Thomas  Traill  of  Frotoft  married  Robina  Grant,  and  in  1821  their  son  William, 
then  of  Frotoft,  was  served  heir  to  the  property  of  his  grandfather.  Mr  Traill  rebuilt  that 
part  of  the  old  Ridgeland  which  faces  Broad  Street. 

Provost  Traiirs  house  was  acquired  by  Dr  Logie,  minister  of  the  first  charge  in  the 
Cathedral,  at  whose  death  his  son,  James  S.  S.  Logie,  M.D.,  purchased  it  from  the  trustees  on 
the  estate.  Of  the  present  proprietor,  we  shall  only  say  that  in  a  town  which  has  been 
singularly  favoured  by  a  long  succession  of  highly-gifted  medical  men,  he  has  for  many  years 
held  a  position  universally  acknowledged  as  second  to  none  on  the  list. 

In  1703,  Robert  Morrison  built  the  houses  in  the  middle  of  the  King's  Passage,  as  the 
S  trynd  was  anciently  called.  The  site  had  belonged  to  his  father,  James  Morrison,  a  man  who 
held  much  property  in  Kirkwall.  Besides  having  houses  in  different  parts  of  the  town,  Quoy 
Angrie  and  Butquoy  had  been  his.  The  son,  however,  had  not  the  gift  of  keeping  together 
what  the  father  had  gathered,  and  when  he  built  these  houses  his  own  money  was  not  sufficient 
to  complete  the  work.  But  he  was  treasurer  of  the  church,  and  the  ecclesiastical  coflFer  was 
handy.  Robert  died,  leaving  to  his  daughter  his  goods  and  gear,  also  his  liabilities.  An 
audit  of  the  treasurer's  accounts  showed  that  he  owed  the  church  £65  12s,  '*  by  and  attour  a 
bill  of  £60  " ;  so  the  Session  came  down  upon  Margaret  Morrison.  And  her  troubles  did  not 
come  singly.  This  debt  to  the  church  she  had  not  foreseen  ;  but  another,  which  was  not 
unexpected,  became  due  at  the  same  time.  She  had  had  a  misfortune — so  the  neighbours 
called  it— and  besides  being  shaken  up  for  her  father's  lapse,  she  was  fined  and  set  upon  the 
stool  of  repentance  for  her  own.  However,  the  author  of  the  misfortune,  John  Watt,  wright, 
married  her,  and  the  Session  having  granted  them  time,  they  wadset  the  houses  to  the  Town 
Council  and  paid  what  was  owing  to  the  Cathedral  "  box."  The  upper  house  subsequently 
became  the  property  of  the  Town  Council.  This  middle  part  of  the  Strynd  had  "of  old 
belonged  to  the  Chaplainrie  of  St.  Salvator." 

We  have  seen  that,  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century,  one  of  Robert  Morrison's 
new  houses  had  been  occupied  by  Mr  Grant,  After  him  came  John  Traill,  Captain  of 
Marines,  and  his  wife,  Eliza  Grote.  In  1785,  Traill  entertained  a  Royal  guest  in  his  modest 
little  mansion.  Prince  William  Henry,  Duke  of  Clarence,  afterwards  William  IV.,  entered 
the  navy  in  1779,  and  on  a  visit  to  Kirkwall  called  upon  his  old  shipmate.  The  following 
note,  found  by  W.  G.  T.  Watt,  Esq.  of  Skaill,  on  opening  a  long  unused  desk,  gives  an  account 
of  this  visit : — 

"  KirkwaU,  20th  July  1785. 
**  Prince  William  Henry,  third  son  of  King  George  the  Third,  landed  in  this  town  from  on  board 
the  Hebe,  Man-of-War,  and  sifter  viewing  the  Church,  Palace,  and  the  lensth  of  the  Town,  He  went 
to  Captain  John  Traill's  house,  where  he  saw  Mrs  Traill  and  her  three  Daughters,  with  whom  he 
conversed  Frankly,  Eat  and  Drank  with  them,  and  after  being  an  hour  in  the  Captain's,  he  returned 
to  the  ship  without  goeing  any  other  way  ;  this  was  the  only  place  in  Scotland  where  he  landed.  He 
was  the  nrst  of  the  Royal  Family  that  visited  the  Scots  Dominions"  [here  in  a  different  hand], 
"  except  the  Duke  of  Ciunberland,  in  the  Rebellion,  1746."  "  He  settled  on  John  Moodie,  who  had 
been  an  officer  of  Marines  on  board  the  same  Ship,  but  thro'  mismanagement  was  broke,  fourty  pound 
p.  annum,  untill  he  gott  him  made  an  officer  of  invalids." 

As  Captain  Traill  had  only  one  daughter,  the  Mrs  Traill  referred  to  above  was  probably 
Mrs  Thomas  Traill  of  Holland,  and  the  daughters,  Isabel,  Jean,  and  Margaret,  ranging  from 
twenty-two  down  to  fifteen  years  of  age.  Captain  Traill  died  the  following  year  at  the  age  of 
fifty-eight ;  his  daughter  lived  to  be  eighty-five. 


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196  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

A  dozen  years  after  the  royal  visit,  the  house  in  the  Strynd  was  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Mr 
Broadfoot,  first  minister  of  the  Secession  Church  in  Kirkwall. 

Here,  in  1807,  was  born  his  eldest  son,  Greorge,  of  whom  Sir  Robert  Peel  said  in  the 
House  of  Commons  : — "  He  obtained  the  applause  of  every  civil  and  military  authority  in  the 
country,  and  his  prudence  and  skill  as  a  civilian  were  only  equalled  by  his  ardour  and  bravery 
in  the  field.  He  was  the  last  of  three  brothers,  all  of  whom  had  died  in  the  service  of  their 
country  on  the  field  of  battle." 

James  was  killed  in  the  first  Afghan  war,  2nd  November  1840.  In  the  same  war,  William 
was  killed  in  Cabul,  2nd  November  of  the  following  year. 

After  distinguishing  himself  as  an  administrator  no  less  than  as  a  soldier,  George  fell  at 
Perozeshah,  December  1845.    On  his  tomb  is  inscribed,  "  The  foremost  man  in  India." 

Major  Broadfoot's  death  was  noted  in  both  Houses  of  Parliament  as  a  public  calamity, 
and  pensions  were  granted  to  his  sisters. 

Writing  to  one  of  these  ladies.  Sir  Henry  Hardinge  says  :— 

**He  might  have  refrained  from  further  conflict  after  his  first  wound,  which  threw  him  off  his 
horse  by  my  side.  But,  guided  by  his  noble  courage,  as  long  as  he  could  sit  his  horse  he  felt  he 
could  be  most  useful  at  a  most  critical  moment  of  the  battle  ;  and  at  the  close  of  the  assault  on  the 
enemy's  batteries,  he  received  his  mortal  wound  at  the  very  moment  of  our  success.  There  was  a 
prospect  of  buildine  a  church  at  Ferozpoor  when  I  left  India,  which  I  hope  will  shortly  be  carried 
into  execution,  on  tne  inside  walls  of  which  I  have  ordered  a  tablet  in  gun-metal  to  be  erected  as  a 
testimonial  of  my  personal  friendship.  .  .  .  The  monument  ordered  by  the  officers  of  the  Madras 
army  will  be  an  honourable  and  lastmg  testimonial  to  his  fame,  whilst  my  more  humble  tribute,  as  a 
personal  friend,  will,  on  every  Sab)>ath  day,  remind  every  young  officer  of  the  meritorious  life  and 
heroic  death  of  the  most  accomplished  officer  of  the  Indian  army  near  the  spot  where  I  attended  his 
burial.  The  perpetuation  of  his  fame  will  be  secured  in  the  Presidency,  ana  near  the  spot  where  he 
devoted  his  life  to  his  country  ;  and  in  Madras,  which  army  can  claim  the  honour  of  lending  Broadfoot 
to  Bengal,  his  memory  will  survive  as  long  as  the  British  power  in  India.'' 

In  1731  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  were  able  to  do  a  kindly  act  in  the  disposal  of  Robert 
Morrison's  upper  house.    Mr  Traill  rented  his  house  from  the  Town  Council : — 

'*  The  said  day,*  the  Magistrates  and  Council,  considering  that  John  Carson,  teacher  of  Mathe- 
matics in  this  Town,  has  been  very  usefull  in  the  place  for  Education  of  Youth,  and  being  resolved  to 
^ve  him  some  encouragement,  they  agree  that  he  shall  have  the  use  and  possession  of  the  upper  part 
of  the  houses  in  the  Strynd  which  sometyme  belonged  to  Robert  Morrison,  merchant  in  Kirkwall, 
wadsett  by  Margaret  Morrison,  his  daughter,  with  consent  of  her  husband,  to  this  Burgh,  and  that 
for  the  haill  space  and  years  he  shall  continue  in  this  Town  teaching  a  school  free  of  any  rent.  Signed 
in  name,  presence,  and  at  appointment  of  the  Magistrates  and  Council,  by  the  Provost  and  by  the 
Stent  Masters,  in  token  of  their  acceptance. 

Ja.  Traill,  Patt.  Traill  accepts,  Geo.  Traill  accepts,  Wm.  Traill  accepts, 

Wm.  Traill  accepts,  Gkorok  Liddell  accepts." 

But  the  value  of  this  gift  was  considerably  minimised  by  the  state  of  the  house,  which, 
seven  years  later,  Carson  had  to  bring  before  the  Council : — 

**  To  the  Honourable  Magistrates  and  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall,  the  Humble  Petition  of  John 
Carson,  Accomptant,  Teacher  of  Navigation,  &c., 

**  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  the  School  House  which  your  Honours,  out  of  ypur  Boimty,  sranted 
to  yor  Petitioner  is  very  much  out  of  order  and  going  to  Ruin  for  want  of  xhatch,  &c. ,  To  that 
Degree  that  your  Petitioner,  when  it  rains,  hath  not  a  Dry  Table  to  teach  at,  nor  a  Bed  to  sleep  in, 
but  is  forced  to  sit  up  at  a  fire  all  Night,  To  the  Impairing  of  his  Health. 

**  May  it  Therefore  please  your  Wisdoms  To  consider  the  Premises  and  Order  such  Reparations 
To  be  made  as  may  Prevent  the  Ruin  of  sd.  house.  And  yor  Petitioner  shall,  as  in  Duty  bound, 
pray,  &c.  Jho.  Carson. 

"Oct.  the  6th,  1738." 

♦  C.  R.,  12th  Feb.  1731. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRTND.  197 

This  petition  received  prompt  attention.    On  the  back  of  it  is  noted  :— 

<<  Kirkwall,  6th  Octr.  1738.— The  Magistrates  and  Councell  appoint  William  Traill,  Treasr.,  to 
bny  Stra  and  Simmons,  and  what  others  is  needful!,  for  Thatchmg  and  makins  the  within  hoose 
watertight,  and  Imploy  men  for  thatchinn^  the  same,  and  to  pnt  the  charge  to  the  Town's  acoompt. 

(Signed)        Ja.  Baikib.^' 

This  house  was  afterwards  in  such  good  condition  that  it  was  chosen  by  the  Rev.  Thomas 
Traill  of  Tirlet  to  be  his  manse.  Mr  Traill  was  presented  to  the  second  charge  in  the 
Cathedral  in  1775,  and,  after  a  six  years'  ministry,  he  died  on  New  Year's  Day,  1782,  in  the 
thirty-third  year  of  his  age.  His  son,  Thomas  Stewart  Traill  of  Tirlet,  Professor  of  Medical 
Jurisprudence  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  was  bom  in  this  house,  29th  November  1781. 
On  a  visit  to  Kirkwall  he  showed  Dr  Logic  the  window  through  which  he  first  saw  daylight  It 
is  the  east  window  of  the  upper  flat.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  a  mutual  gable  separated  the 
two  manses.  Secession  and  Established,  and  a  comparison  of  those  old  houses  with  these  now 
occupied  by  the  ministers  of  the  two  churches,  will  show  how  very  much  more  highly  people 
of  the  present  day  appreciate  the  work  of  the  ministry  than  did  their  grandfathers  a  century 
a^o. 

A  small  section  of  garden  near  the  head  of  the  Strynd  was,  in  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  the  Botanic  Garden  of  Kirkwall.  Neill  refers  to  it  in  Ids  "  Tour  "  : — "  Having  been 
informed  that  a  Dr  Sutherland  (l^i^g  ^o  deceased),  a  pupil  of  the  great  Boerhaave,  was  in  the 
frequent  practice  of  resorting  to  a  small  glen,  called  the  Quills  of  Scapa,  to  gather  simples, 
which  he  dispensed  in  his  medical  practice,  curiosity  led  me  carefully  to  examine  the  spot.  I 
observed  a  large  bed  of  bistort  (polygonum  bistortaj,  a  remnant,  I  presume,  of  the  Doctor's 
dispensatory."  It  may  be  stated  that  Mr  Thomas  Neill,  of  Canonmills  House,  Edinburgh, 
was  married  to  Jean,  daughter  of  Patrick  Traill  of  Elsness,  hence  his  interest  in  Orkney,  and 
that  he  was  a  leading  member  of  the  Royal  Botanical  Society,  hence  his  interest  in  "  the  little 
kail-yard  possest  by  Hugh  Sutherland,  M.D."  ♦ 

In  1677,  between  the  Long  Gutter  and  the  Castle,  there  were  only  six  houses  on  the  west 
side  of  the  street.  On  the  south  side  of  the  Long  Gutter  lay  a  large  space  of  waste  ground 
stretching  back  to  the  Oyce.  This  "  muckle  yard,  pertaining;  to  Burness,"  was  sold  by  Hugh 
Baikie  to  David  Traill,  merchant,  Kirkwall.  In  the  street  end  of  the  yard,  TraiU,  in  1714, 
built  a  house  which  he  called  Mounthoolie. 

Across  the  lane  lived  Liddell  of  Hammer,  and  so  it  came  about  that  Traill's  son,  William^ 
and  Hammer's  daughter,  Elspeth,  saw  much  of  each  other,  and  when  the  young  man  had  just 
completed  his  twenty-third  year  he  married  Miss  Liddell.  He  was  the  first  Traill  of  Frotoft 
His  son,  Thomas  Traill  of  Frotoft,  sold  Mounthoolie  to  William  Smith,  merchant,  Westray. 
Smith  was  unfortunate  in  business,  and  in  1804  this  tenement  was  seized  by  John  Mitchell^ 
writer,  on  behalf  of  two  creditors,  Anne  and  Jane  Park,  merchants,  Newcastle.  Having  been 
exposed  to  auction,  the  house  was  bought  for  the  trustee  by  George  Omond.  Mitchell's  son, 
John,  after  having  been  Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall  for  some  years,  went  to  the  office  of  Sir 
James  Marwick,  City  Clerk  of  Glasgow,  and  sold  this  property  in  1870  to  George  Garrioch, 
vintner.  There  was  then  a  parapet  wall  in  front,  which,  if  it  improved  the  appearance  of  the 
house,  narrowed  the  street  considerably.  This  wall  Garrioch  removed,  not  as  an  obstruction  to 
the  street,  but  as  an  obstruction  to  business.  Under  the  present  proprietor,  Mr  A.  Mitchell, 
Mounthoolie  is  known  as  the  Imperial  Hotel. 

At  the  foot  of  the  lane  are  some  houses  built  on  the  Burness  yard,  and  named,  from  the 
old  Town  Clerk,  Mitchell  Square. 

*  Records  of  Sasine. 


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198  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  southern  boundary  of  Mounthoolie  was  a  house  which  in  1677  belonged  to  the  heirs  of 
Patrick  Prince.  In  1707,  William  Fea  bought  it  from  Magnus  Prince.  The  next  owner, 
James  Manson,  had  also  the  house  on  the  oppasite  side  of  the  street,  and  was  thus  the  proud 
proprietor  of  "  Hell "  and  "  Purgatory."  "  James  Manson,  elder,  hath  ane  tenement  yr,  under 
sclaitt  roof,  possest  by  himself,  commonly  called  Hell."  Compared  with  "  Purgatory,"  "  Hell" 
wa«  the  better  property,  its  valued  rental  being  twelve  pounds,  while  the  other  place  was 
rated  on  eight. 

This  house,  a  few  years  later,  came  into  the  possession  of  Dr  Blaw,  grandson  of  the  Rev. 
William  Blaw,  of  Westray,  the  zealous  Sabbatarian  who  hanged  his  cat  for  killing  a  mouse  on 
Sunday.*  As  this  was  by  no  means  a  common  name  in  our  islands,  it  may  almost  be  assumed 
that  the  first  of  the  family  in  Orkney  was  Edward  Blaw,  who  came  as  a  writer  and  notary 
public.  In  1627,  on  the  3rd  of  June,  Edward  Blaw,  N.P.,  signs  a  declaration  made  by  two 
"  parochinaris  of  St.  Olaw,  becaus  we  cannot  wrytte  ourselffs."  t 

Dr  Blaw,  above  named,  took  a  very  active  part  in  public  matters  while  he  lived  in  Kirk- 
wall. The  doctor's  sister,  Marion,  lived  in  "Hell"  with  her  husband,  William  Manson, 
Wright.  In  1789,  their  son,  William,  in  the  Records  of  Sasine  designated  master  mariner  and 
again  comptroller,  purchased  the  house  from  his  uncle  and  granted  liferent  of  it  to  his  wife, 
i^izabeth,  daughter  of  William  Balfour  of  Trenabie. 

In  1806,  William  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Elwick,  Captain  R.N.,  married  his  cousin,  Mary 
Balfour  Manson,  and  the  house  passed  into  the  possession  of  Mrs  Balfour  and  her  husband. 

The  property  south  from  "  Hell "  had  been  at  some  far  back  date  dedicated  by  its  pious 
owner  to  St  Barbara's  Altar  in  the  Cathedral ;  and  when,  at  the  Reformation,  Saint  Barbara 
ceased  to  be  recognised  as  proprietriz,  the  Burgh  took  possession  of  this  and  the  other 
religious  endowments  in  the  town  as  ownerless  houses.  In  1828  this  site  was  occupied  by  a 
•*  Tenement  of  land,  sometime  ruinous,  with  the  Byre  on  the  west  end  thereof."  It  then 
belonged  to  John  Traill  Urquhart.  Captain  Balfour  bought  the  ruins,  and  on  the  site  built  an 
addition  to  his  own  house. 

It  seems  very  remarkable  that  a  family  domiciled  in  Orkney  from  the  days  of  Queen 
Mary  should,  till  two  generations  back,  have  taken  no  share  in  public  business.  While  the 
work  of  the  county  was  carried  on  in  Kirkwall  by  Baikies  and  Traills,  by  Youngs  and 
Moncrieffs,  Richans  and  Strangs,  Craigies  and  Liddells,  Kaas,  Rendalls,  Princes  and  Paplays, 
the  Balfours  remained  in  the  islands  and  took  no  interest  in  matters  municipal.  This  is  all  the 
more  remarkable,  seeing  that  by  the  conditions  of  sale  and  purchase  in  the  olden  time  they 
were  compelled  to  be  burgesses  of  Kirkwall.  AH  the  landed  proprietors  of  Orkney — some  of 
them  titled — were  merchants.  Their  rents  were  paid  in  kind,  and,  before  they  could  dispose 
of  their  grain,  butter,  malt,  and  oil,  they  required  a  licence  from  the  Dean-of-Quild  in 
Kirkwall.    Without  this  licence  they  were  "  unfree  traders  " — smugglers  in  fact. 

"  The  very  ancient  family  of  Balfour,  long  heritable  Sheriffs  of  Fife,  derived  their  name 
from  Balfour  Castle  in  that  county,  built  upon  their  earliest  possession  in  Scotland,  the  vale 
or  strath  of  the  Or,  a  tributary  of  the  Leven."  {  Their  first  recorded  ancestor  was  Siward  of 
Northumbria,  who  lived  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Confessor.  Of  him  Shakespeare  makes 
Malcolm  Cahnmohr  say  :— 

'*  Gracious  Ensland  hath  lent  us  good  Siward, 
An  older  ana  a  better  soldier  none 
That  Christendom  gives  out." 

•  Fasti.  t  Pet.  Rent.,  iii.  36.  J  Burke's  County  Families. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND. 


199 


Siward's  son,  Osulf,  was  father  of  Siward  "  cui  dat  Edgar  rex  vallem  de  Or  et  Maey  pro 
capite  Ottar  Dane."    From  this  comes  the  pictured  pun  of  the  otter  in  the  Balfour  arms. 

Next  came  Octred,  who  gave  his  son  a  recognisable  Christian  name,  Michael  In  1253, 
Duncan,  twelfth  Earl  of  Fife,  gave  "  consanguine©  suo  Michaeli  de  Balfour/'  in  exchange  for 
Pittencrieff,  the  much  more  valuable  lands  of  Munquhanny. 

The  Balf ours  of  Balfour  and  Trenaby 
have  not  only  satisfied  the  Herald's  Col- 
lege that  they  are  the  descendants  of  the 
Northumbrian  Siward,  but  they  have 
established  their  right  to  be  regarded  as 
the  main  stem  of  this  ancient  family. 

The  foundation  of  the  Balfour  estate 
in  Orkney  was  a  gift  of  church  lands. 
In  a  charter  granted  1560,  Adam  Both- 
well,  Bishop  of  Orkney,  conveyed  to 
Gilbert  Balfour  and  Margaret  Bothwell, 
his  wife,  the  lands  of  Kirbister,  Nolt- 
land,  Bu'  of  Noltland,  Bakka,  Fribo, 
Garth,  Clet,  Uea,  Rackwick,  Akerness, 
and  Mabak,  all  in  Westray.* 

In  1565,  Balfour  got  in  feu  the  lands 
belonging  to  St.  Catherine's  Stouk,  and 
the  charter  was  signed  by  all  the  digni- 
taries of  the  Church.  As  most  of  them 
survived  the  Reformation,  their  names 

are  interesting  as  the  last  Bishop,  Dean,  and  Chapter  of  Romish  appointment :— Adam,  Bp. 
of  Orkney  ;  James  Annand,  Chancellor ;  Alexander  Dick,  Provost ;  William  Peirson,  Rector 
of  Cross  ;  Francis  Bothwell,  Treasurer ;  Thomas  Richardson,  Preb.  St.  Catherine's  ;  John 
Graham,  Rector  of  Lady  Kirk ;  Gilbert  Foulsie,  Archdeacon  ;  MagniLs  Halcro,  Precentor ; 
Hieronimus  TuUoch,  Sub-chantor. 

In  1567,  Gilbert  Balfour  received  from  Queen  Mary  a  grant  of  Westray,  Papa  Westray, 
and  Pharay.  Sir  Gilbert  Balfour  was  Master  of  Queen  Mary's  Household,  SheriflF  of  Orkney, 
Fowd  of  Zetland,  and  Captain  of  Kirkwall  Castle ;  and  as  he  had  obtained  these  honours 
when  Henry,  Lord  Darnley,  was  King  Consort,  it  is  not  surprising  that  when  Bothwell  in  his 
flight  came  to  Orkney  he  should  receive  small  favour  from  Balfour. 


Arms  of  the  Balfours. 


Letter  of  Queen  Mary  and  Her  Husband  to  Sir  Gilbert  Balfour,  Comptroller  of  their 
Household,  relative  to  the  Hawks  of  Orkney  and  Zetland,  1566. 

"  ComptroUar,  We  greit  you  weill.  It  has  been  the  ancient  custume,  observit  of  lang  tyme 
bygane,  that  yeirlie  our  falconaris  resortis  to  the  boundis  of  Orknay,  Zetland,  and  utheris  the  north 
cuntreis,  ffor  hamebringing  of  the  haulkis  thairof  to  ws,  and  sua  we  have  send  thir  berars  this  instant 
yeir ;  thair  expenssis  is  accustomat  to  be  paid  furth  of  your  office ;  and  sen  ye  ar  in  the  cuntrie 
yourself,  we  pray  you  not  onlie  to  ansuer  thame  thankfullie  of  thair  accustomat  dewitie  and  expensis, 
hot  als  tak  ordour  how  they  salbe  reddelie  and  thankfullie  ansuerit  of  the  halkis  within  the  saidis 
boundis,  quhilkis  ar  als  necessair  for  ws  as  ony  uther  the  lyk  thinff,  alsweill  for  our  awin  pastyme  as 
for  the  gratificatioun  of  our  freindis.  This  we  doubt  not  bot  ye  will  do.  Subscriuit  with  our  hand  at 
Edinburgh  the  xxvij.  day  of  Aprile  1666. t  Marie  R.,  Henry  R." 


♦  Pet.  Rent. 


t  Peterkin  in  Ork.  k  Zet.  Chron.,  May  1826. 


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200  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKKETS. 

Sir  Gilbert  Balfour  died  unmarried,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  nephew,  Michael  of 
Munquhanny,  who  took  up  his  residence  in  Noltland  Castle,  1588.  After  him  came  Michael, 
whose  grandson,  Patrick,  held  Noltland  when  Montrose  came  to  Orkney  in  1650.  Patrick 
Balfour  was  a  staunch  Royalist,  and  though  his  age  prevented  him  from  crossing  the  Pentland 
Firth,  he  incurred  the  wrath  of  Cromwell's  Parliament  for  the  help  he  rendered  in  raising 
troops  and  for  the  hospitable  shelter  he  afforded  to  the  fugitives.  For  this  he  was  fined  to  an 
extent  which  sadly  crippled  bis  estate.  His  wife  was  Barbara,  daughter  of  Francis  Mudie  of 
Melsetter.  They  were  succeeded  by  their  eldest  son,  George,  the  last  occupant  of  Noltland 
Castle. 

The  wedding  feast  of  George  Balfour  of  Pharay  and  Marjorie  Baikie,  though  it  took  place 
in  the  seventeenth  century,  is  still  in  Westray  a  tradition  of  splendour  crowning  the  ruins  of 
old  Noltland  with  a  halo  of  glory. 

The  bridegroom,  who  is  said  to  have  stood  six  feet  two  inches  in  his  stockings,  was 
hospitable  and  popular.  The  guests  filled  the  Castle,  which  at  the  wedding  feast  resounded 
with  the  boisterous  hilarity  becoming  the  age  and  the  occasion.  Then  came  a  succession  of 
gBdes  that  prevented  the  visitors  leaving  the  Island.  But  George  Balfour,  as  a  host,  was  all 
that  his  friends  could  wish.  He  proved  that  it  was  a  very  queer  day  indeed  that  he  could  not 
make  a  good  night  of ;  and  the  revels  were  kept  up  for  weeks,  till  at  length  the  angry  steward 
announced  to  the  astonished  party  that  every  beast  in  the  byre  had  been  slaughtered  for  them 
except  the  bull.  Then  ''  kill  the  bull "  calmly  replied  the  master  of  the  feast  The  bull  was 
slain,  and  after  this  sacrifice  the  storm  went  down  and  the  wedding  guests  departed. 

William,  the  eldest  son  of  this  marriage,  had  an  only  child,  a  daughter,  who  married 
Archibald  Stewart  of  Brugh,  and  with  her  Pharay  passed  to  the  Brugh  estate. 

But  George  Balfour  took  a  second  wife,  Mary  Mackenzie,  daughter  of  the  Bishop,  and 
their  son,  John,  got  Trenaby. 

The  fines  inflicted  on  Patrick  Balfour,  and  the  festive  proclivities  of  George,  quite  account 
for  the  fact  that  on  4th  March,  1707,  Robert  McClelland,  Chamberlain  of  Orkney,  gets  "  decree 
of  poinding  against  John  Balfour,  eldest  son  and  heir-apparent  of  George  Balfour  of  Pharay 
and  Mary  Mackenzie,  relict  of  the  sd.  deceast  Gkorge  Balfour,  and  John  Read,  grieve  in 
Noltland,  to  poind  the  moveables  on  the  12d  land  of  Noltland"  for  £112  4s  Scots,  as  interest 
on  principal  sura  of  £1870  6s  8d,  for  which  a  bond  had  been  granted,  3rd  Oct.  1704.* 
Notwithstanding  this  reverse  of  fortune,  John  Balfour  of  Trenaby  gave  five  sons  a  good  start 
in  life. 

William,  the  next  laird,  married  Elizabeth  Covingtrie,  heiress  of  Newark.  In  September 
1747,  he  gave  £50  sterling  to  Archibald  Stewart  of  Brugh  to  raise  an  action  for  reduction  of 
the  Orkney  weights.  This  action  came  on  ten  years  later.  His  eldest  son,  John,  as  a  youth, 
joined  the  Civil  Service  of  the  Honourable  East  India  Company.  At  the  age  of  twenty-four 
he  returned  home  invalided.  In  London  the  medical  staff  of  the  Company  sat  upon  him,  and 
declared  that  he  had  no  more  than  a  couple  of  years  to  live.  He  recovered,  returned  to  India, 
successfully  shook  the  Pagoda  Tree,  retired,  purchased  the  Honyman  property  in  Orkney, 
endowed  the  Balfour  Hospital,  and  died  in  Curzon  Street,  Mayfair,  London,  at  the  age  of 
ninety-two,  long  after  the  last  of  his  medical  doomsmen  had  been  laid  in  the  mould. 

John  Balfour's  brother,  Thomas  of  Elwick,  was  a  remarkable  man.  He  graduated  in 
medicine,  but  is  best  known  as  Colonel  of  the  North  Lowland  Fencibles,  a  corps  largely 
recruited  from  Orkney.  Colonel  Balfour  frequently  appears  in  the  public  records  of  Kirkwall, 
as  he  had  many  dealings  with  the  Town  Council.    From  the  Burgh  he  purchased  building 

*  H.  L.,  Sheriff  Court  Papers. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO   8TRTND.  201 

sites  wherever  they  were  offered  for  sale,  from  the  Shore  and  the  Bridge  up  to  the  Broad 
Sands.  He  married  Frances,  daughter  of  Earl  Ligonier,  a  lady  who  possessed  an  astuteness  in 
business  matters  quite  equal  to  that  of  her  husband.  At  one  time  the  Colonel  undertook  the 
management  of  Lord  Duffus'  property,  and  went  to  live  in  Burray.  Here,  in  1778,  his  daughter, 
Mary,  afterwards  Mrs  Brunton,  was  born.  Her  novels,  **  Discipline  "  and  "  Self-Control,"  werft 
much  appreciated  in  their  day. 

The  late  Dr  Paterson,  who  disapproved  of  novels,  felt  himself  safe  in  recommending  Mrs 
Brunton's  works  to  his  niece  "  when  she  required  a  little  relaxation  from  more  serious, 
reading.''  At  the  present  day  these  works  are  not  asked  for  at  the  public  libraries  by  persona 
taking  an  alterative  course  of  light  literature. 

In  Burray,  Colonel  Balfour  was  visited,  about  1780,  by  Principal  Gordon  of  the  Scots 
College,  Paris,  who  says  : — **  The  principal  farmer,  a  Captain  Balfour,  has  carried  on  improve- 
ments with  success,  but  has  few  imitators  ;  it  is  hard  to  drive  the  Orkney  people  out  of  their 
old  ways." 

The  Fencibles  were  militia  raised  during  the  French  war  for  purely  local  defence,  and 
each  regiment  had  a  territorial  title.  Thus  the  North  Lowland  was  the  8th  Orkney  and 
Shetland  Regiment  of  Fencibles.  This  corps  did  not  remain  at  home,  but  did  duty  in  any 
part  of  the  British  Isles  where  its  services  were  required,  and  in  the  winter  of  1796  the 
Fencibles  were  quartered  at  Carrick-on -Shannon,  Ireland  being  then  exceedingly  disaffected 
and  hoping  much  from  the  French. 

The  officers  at  that  time  were  :— Major  Commanding,  Thomas  Balfour ;  Captains,  Robert 
Baikie,  J.  Malcolmson  ;  Lieutenants,  Robert  Sinclair,  Robert  Nicolson,  Andrew  Strang,  Ja. 
Archibald,  Alex.  Fraser ;  Ensigns,  K.  S.  Scott,  Geo.  Omond,  J.  Baikie  ;  Surgeon,  Robert 
Qroat. 

Colonel  Balfour  was  proud  of  his  regiment,  and  composed  for  it  the  accompanying  march, 
entitled,  "  March  of  the  Orkney  and  Shetland  Fencibles." 

The  Colonel's  eldest  son,  John  Edward  Ligonier  Balfour,  Captain  in  the  9th  Infantry,  was 
killed  at  Alkmaar,  1799,  in  the  twentieth  year  of  his  age. 

The  second  son,  William  Balfour  of  Elwick,  Commander  in  the  Royal  Navy,  succeeded  to 
his  father's  property,  and  to  the  large  estates  of  his  uncle,  John  Balfour  of  Trenaby,  H.E.I.C.S. 
He  married  first  his  second  cousin,  Mary  Balfour  Manson,  grand-daughter  of  his  uncle,  David 
Balfour,  W.S.,  Edinburgh,  and  second,  Mary  Margaret  Baikie,  and  had  seven  children  by  the 
first  marriage  and  five  by  the  second. 

The  Captain  was  a  thoroughly  kindly  man,  though  his  naval  training  had  made  him 
somewhat  of  a  martinet.  In  his  passages  between  Kirkwall  and  Shapinsay  he  always  took 
the  helm  of  his  yawl,  and  his  two  boatmen,  George  Reid  and  Thomas  Liddell,  had  no  say  in 
the  management  One  day,  with  a  rising  wind,  the  men  knew  that  the  Captain  was  carrying 
too  much  sail,  but  they  could  make  no  remark.  Nearing  the  land,  the  danger  from  sudden 
gusts  became  greater,  and  both  men  quietly  got  out  their  knives.  As  they  had  anticipated,  a 
squall  came  which  would  have  capsized  them,  when  in  a  trice  they  cut  the  halliards,  and  the 
sail  coming  down  by  the  run,  boat  and  lives  were  saved. 

At  the  pier  the  Captain  stept  ashore  without  a  word,  and  the  men  having  seen  everything 
snug  in  the  yawl,  took  the  luggage  up  to  the  house,  hoping  to  avoid  the  master.  But  the  old 
gentleman  was  waiting  for  them,  and,  after  they  had  tossed  off  a  glass  of  grog,  he  gave  them  a 
pound  to  divide,  but  made  not  the  slightest  allusion  to  what  had  taken  place  in  the  bay. 

As  Provost  of  Kirkwall,  Captain  Balfour  was  much  esteemed  by  the  Council,  and  great 
regret  was  expressed  when,  on  the  16th  of  August  1836,  he  resigned  the  chair. 

In  1843,  when  the  Eaxl  of  Kinnoul  was  Lyon  King,  and  James  Tjiler  of  Woodhouselee, 

2d 


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Maech  op  the  Kirkwall,  Orkney  and  Shetland  Fencibles,  by  Colonel  Thomas 
Balfour,  from  MS.  of  Robert  Nicolson,  jun.,  dated  January  2nd,  1805  * 


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*  Favoured  by  James  Bamett,  £sq.,  Crown  Chamberlain. 


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LONG  GQTTER  TO   STRYND.  203^ 

Lyon  Depute,  William  Balfour,  Captain,  R.N.,  was  declared  head  of  the  Balfour  family^ 
whose  ancestors  had  been  minor  barons  for  more  than  four  centuries  previous  to  1587.  * 

Captain  Balfour  was  succeeded  in  the  property  by  his  son,  David,  W.S.,  the  gifted  author 
of  some  valuable  works  on  Orcadian  history.  Apart  from  their  historic  interest,  David 
Balfour's  writings  have  a  fascination  for  the  reader  on  account  of  their  beautiful  literary  style. 

He  was  for  many  years  Colonel  of  the  Orkney  Volunteers.  He  built  Balfour  Castle,  1847, 
and  died  without  issue  in  1887. 

Colonel  James  William,  late  of  the  Black  Watch  and  afterwards  of  the  7th  Dragoon 
Guards,  Captain  Balfour's  eldest  son  by  the  second  marriage,  succeeded  to  the  bulk  of  the 
property. 

When  the  Balfours  gave  up  the  house  in  Albert  Street  it  was  taken  by  Sheriff  Robertson, 
a  man  whose  name  even  yet  is  held  in  kindly  remembrance  by  many  of  the  poor  of  Kirkwall, 
The  Sheriflf  left  "  Hell "  for  airier  quarters  at  Butquoy,  of  which  he  was  the  first  tenant,  and 
the  late  Mr  Peter  Sinclair  Heddle,  solicitor.  Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall,  purchased  the  northern 
portion  and  established  in  it  an  agency  for  the  Bank  of  Scotland.  Her  Majesty's  Commis- 
sioners of  Customs  and  Excise  bought  the  southern  part,  which  is  now  the  Custom  House  of 
the  Port  of  Kirkwall. 

This  house,  in  ancient  times  dedicated  to  Saint  Barbara's  Altar,  having  at  the  Reformation 
become  Burgh  property,  was  sold  to  William  Irvine  of  Sabay.  It  afterwards  came  into 
possession  of  Thomas  Moncriefif,  from  whom  it  passed  to  his  brother,  Harry  MoncriefT,  skipper, 
better  known  as  Moncriefif  of  Rapness,  "  brother  german  to  Sir  Thomas  Moncrieff  of  that  ilk^ 
Baronet."    The  Skipper  was  a  flourishing  man,  and  a  power  in  Orkney  in  his  day. 

In  1715,  the  Kirk  Session  appeal  to  Moncrieff  of  Rapness  to  speak  to  his  brother.  Sir 
Thomas,  about  some  money  which  the  Baronet's  father  was  supposed  to  have  left  to  the 
Cathedral.  Harry  promised  to  forward  the  Session's  letter  under  his  own  cover,  but  the  money, 
if  ever  promised,  was  never  received.  Rapness  did  not  remain  long  in  the  Moncriefif  family. 
The  next  Harry  seems  to  have  had  no  purpose  in  life  but  to  waste  his  estate,  and  in  this  he 
succeeded  most  thoroughly. 

We  learn  incidentally  that  he  was  somewhat  careful  in  the  matter  of  dress.  The  Session 
gave  him  permission  "  to  line  that  part  of  the  pillar  in  the  head  of  his  seat  with  timber  to 
preserve  their  clothes  from  the  wall."  t 

His  wife  died,  1741,  and  she  had  "  a  good  solid  funeral."  There  were  consumed  seven 
dozen  and  four  bottles  of  claret,  besides  sherry,  brandy,  and  a  barrel  of  ale ;  but  when,  eight 
years  later,  Rapness  himself  died,  a  letter  of  David  Moncrieff,  advocate,  Edinburgh,  to  Andrew 
Young  of  Castleyards,  shows  a  dififerent  state  of  matters  : — 

"  Dear  Sir, — I  this  day  received  yours  with  an  account  of  Rapness'  death,  and  I  heartily  thank  you 
for  the  care  you  have  takeu  of  his  Funeralls,  and  they  shall  be  paid  as  soon  as  yon  send  me  the  note 
of  them.  Only  1  beg  one  favour  of  you,  that  you  would  confirm  yourself  Executor-Creditor  to  him, 
and  sell  any  little  furniture  or  moveables  he  has  and  pay  the  funeralls  as  far  as  that  will  go,  and  what 
is  deficient  I  shall  pay.  I  would  be  glad  you  would  enquire  what  money  his  plate,  etc. ,  are  pledged 
for,  and  if  it  will  be  worth  while  to  redeem  them  ;  as  for  the  house,  it  belongs  to  my  nephew,  and  I 
beg  you  would  sett  it  to  the  best  advantage. 

**  I  beg  my  compliments  to  your  lady,  and  am.  Dear  Sir,  Your  most  afifec.  Cousin  and  most  humble 
Servant,  (Signed)        D.  Moncbieff. 

"  Edr.,  19  Jany.  1749." 

Young  made  the  necessary  enquiry,  and  his  letter  in  reply  throws  a  side  light  upon  a 
seamy  system  of  pawnbroking  practised  in  our  town  in  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

*  From  diploma  in  possession  of  Colonel  Balfour  of  Balfour  and  Trenaby. 
tS.  R.,  17th  Feb.  1724. 


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i1 


204  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  three  golden  balls  of  Lombardy  had  not  then  been  suspended  over  any  door  in  Kirkwall 
to  indicate  that  those  who  required  it  could  have  temporary  accommodation  within. 
Borrowers  of  small  sums  had  recourse  to  their  neighbours,  who  sometimes  advanced  money  on 
the  security  of  chattels  of  more  value  than  the  amount  of  the  loan  : — 

*•  KirklL,  26th  January  1749. 
"  Dr.  Sir, —  ...  I  took  ane  Inventry  of  all  his  Houshold  plenishing,  which  I  caused  apretiat, 
a  Copy  whereof  you  have  likeways.  I  did  not  insist  for  his  Srvtt.  her  making  oath  on  the  verity  of 
it  nntill  I  have  your  opinion  theron.  I  have  reason  to  think  that  the  appretiators  have  put  too  low  a 
value  on  some  things,  therefore,  if  you  think  proper,  shall  putt  it  all  to  a  publick  Roupe.  It  seems 
his  Servtt.,  Christian  Heddall,  gott  a  Disposition  from  him  in  the  year  1746  to  seall  portions  of  his 
plenishing  for  paytt.  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  poimds  Scots,  a  copy  whereof  you  have  inclosed. 
She  has  aggreed  to  give  up  the  spoons,  which  I  suppose  you'll  choise  to  have  as  they  are  marked 
with  his  Favt  and  Moyr  names.  You'll  observe  from  the  Inventary  they  are  valued  as  Bullion, 
notwithstanding  they  are  in  ffood  case.  The  most  considerable  part  of  his  silver  plate  is  impignorate 
for  money  he  borrowed  at  different  times  from  Thos.  M*Kenzie,  a  mertt.  in  this  Town,  and  likeways 
his  Go]d  Watch  and  a  large  Diamond  Ring,  a  note  of  which  you  have  also.  The  Tankard  is  in  very 
;ood  Condition,  and  has  on  it  the  Arms  of  your  Family  en^aven  ;  the  Spoons,  Caster,  and  Mustard 
)ish  is  likeways  in  pretty  good  Order ;  and  as  to  the  Watch  and  the  Ring,  I  cannot  putt  ane 
Estimate  on  them  as  I  am  a  Stranger  to  the  Value  of  these  things — the  watch  looks  pretty  well  and 
ffoes  well.  There  is  also  six  Silver  Spoons,  in  pretty  good  Condition,  pledged  for  £45  Scots,  due  to 
Wm.  Traill,  Mertt.  here,  a  note  whereof  you  have ;  and  there  are  three  hu'ge  new  Peuther  Plates, 
weight  19i  lbs.,  in  one  Margt.  Mowat's  custody  for  £9  Scots.  These  are  the  wnole  that  I  can  possibly 
ffett  accott.  off  save  a  pair  of  Shirt  Buttons  which  is  in  James  Stewart's  Custody,  pledged,  as  he  savs, 
for  15  sh.  ster.,  but  could  not  produce  me  any  Document ;  the  Buttons  are  in  Bristol  Stone,  wt.  his 
Lady's  hair  sett  in  Gold,  the  value  whereof  I  don't  know.  This  Stewart  goes  under  the  Character  of 
a  great  Rogue,  and  if  there  has  been  any  dealings  betwixt  Rapness  and  him,  he  has  certainly  imposed 
upon  him.  In  my  present  Situation  I  cannot  make  a  legal  inquiry  into  these  matters  without  your 
orders,  So  that  I  shall  wait  for  whatever  Resolution  you  shall  come  to  anent  your  Uncle's  afibirs. 
Have  sent  you  wt.  the  oyr  Accots.  a  Charge  of  Doctor  Hugh  Sutherland,  who  attended  him  during 
his  sickness,  amounting  to  £5  6  sh.  stg.,  which  I  believe  is  a  very  moderate  and  just  accot.,  as  I  know 
he  attended  him  all  the  time.     Make  my  compliments  to  My  Lady  Monorieff,  and  am,  etc. 

"  P.S. — I  forgot  to  inform  you,  amongst  oyr  things.  That  Linklater,  who  is  your  Uncle's  principall 
Cr.,  Came  down  to  his  house  some  time  before  he  died  and  forcibly  Carried  off  a  Silver  hilted  Sword, 
which  he  still  keept,  notwithstanding  your  Uncle  Sent  for  it  Several  times." 

This  creditor  was  George  Richan  of  Linklater,  to  whom  Rapness  and  Braebister  were 
mortgaged  for  10,000  merks.  Evidently  the  sword  had  been  so  handsome  that  Linklater  had 
resolved  to  secure  it  for  himself,  and  doubtless  Mr  Young  would  get  fair  value  for  the  weapon 
when  he  realised  the  assets. 

The  plenishing  of  the  house  was  valued  at  £24  178  5d. 

In  1771  Sir  William  Moncrieff  sold  this  house  to  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  along 
with  **  twa  halls,  twa  chalmers,  and  twa  sellars,  with  the  yaird  of  the  samyn  on  the  south  side 
thereof." 

After  passing  through  many  hands,  the  houses  on  the  site  of  the  **twa  halls  and  twa 
chalmers "  were  bought  by  the  late  William  Peace,  bookseller  and  publisher,  who,  in  1860, 
established,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  the  Orkney  Herald  newspaper,  the  Liberal 
organ  of  the  island  constituency.  The  business  of  the  paper  was  transferred  to  the  present 
office  in  1875. 

The  "  yaird  of  the  samyn  "  has  been  detached  from  this  property,  and  now  belongs  to  the 
Tait  Trust. 

In  1677,  the  next  house  southward,  now  represented  by  two  houses  at  right  angles  to  each 
other,  was  occupied  by  Patrick  Traill,  son  of  Thomas  Traill  of  Holland.  His  wife  was  Elspeth 
Baikie.  Patrick  Traill  was  afterwards  Dean-of-Quild.  A  letter  of  his  will  show  at  once  the 
literary  style  of  the  business  men  and  the  value  of  our  native  commodities  two  hundred  years 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STBYND.  205 

ago.    There  is  no  address,  but  from  the  memoranda  on  the  back  of  it  the  receiver  was  certainly 
Arthur  Baikie  of  Tankerness  : — 

*«  Leith,  the  15  ApryeU  1672. 

**  Honnered  Coussing,  having  the  ocasion  of  this  berer,  I  tought  feat  to  aquont  you  bay  alyn  what 
our  contray  goades  is  sould  for  at  present : — Item,  the  boutor  at  twentie-four  pond  the  barall,  the  oyll 
at  twentie-eaught  pond  the  barall,  the  feaders  at  tyn  pond  the  stoan,  connin  skenes  *  at  13  lb.  16 
shilling  the  hnnder,  hydee  is  Low,  tallow  at  13  pond  the  hnnder  wyght,  and  thes  is  the  reates  in  the 
saouth  from  your  friend  ;  ye  shaw  it  to  oversanday  or  James  bakie  and  william  young,  as  ye  leikes  or 
think  fitofto,  for,  being  in  hast,  I  could  not  wreat  to  all ;  if  my  pepers  be  com  to  your  hand  show  my 
wyff  what  shee  sail  do  in  it ;  remember  my  heartlye  Loav  to  your  oeadfellow  and  all  them  frendes  in 
generall.     I  rest,  sr.,  your  cousing  at  command  to  serve  yon.  (Signed)        Pat.  Traill. 

"  I  have  wreat  no  more  bot  on  to  my  sweit  heart." 

To  Patrick  succeeded  William,  Treasurer  and  Dean-of -Guild. 

The  tenement  south  from  what  was  TrailFs  house  occupies  the  site  where  **  of  old  "  stood 
"  the  houses  perteining  to  the  Chappell  of  the  Blessed  Yirgine  Marie  in  the  Laverock."  In 
1676,  David  Forbes,  Notary  Public  and  Town  Clerk,  lived  here.  This  was  an  excellent  man 
in  all  the  relations  of  life.  Though  he  has  been  gone  for  more  than  two  hundred  years,  our 
public  records  are  full  of  evidence  as  to  the  care  and  sagacity  with  which  he  did  his  work  in 
the  burgh.  He  was  Treasurer  of  the  Church  and  an  elder.  His  last  attendance  at  the  Session 
of  St.  Magnus  was  13th  October  1684,  when  he  concurred  in  passing  a  somewhat  severe 
sentence.  There  were  before  the  tribunal  four  breaches  of  decorum  in  different  stages  of 
acUustment.  Something  in  the  case  of  James  Liddell,  who  '*  compeared  with  Jean  Wallace 
and  confessed,"  had  excited  the  wrath  of  the  judges,  and  the  erring  man  was  ordained  ^*  to  go 
to  Stronsay  and  to  Cross  Kirk  in  Sanday,  and  stand  two  days  in  each  church  in  sack  cloath, 
and  afterwards  to  return  here  and  stand  two  dayes  upon  the  pillar,  and  to  bring  a  testimonie 
from  the  ministers  of  each  congregation." 

Forbes  died  on  Sunday,  30th  November,  and  was  buried  in  the  north  nave  aisle  beside  his 
wife,  Margaret  Henderson,  whose  epitaph,  probably  written  by  her  husband,  describes  her  as 
a  pious  and  virtuous  woman.  Their  seat  in  church  was  under  the  Magistrates'  loft.  They 
were  survived  by  at  least  one  daughter,  Elizabeth,  wife  of  Bailie  James  Young,  keeper  of  the 
King's  girnell,  brother  of  Andrew  of  Castleyards. 

Bailie  Young  succeeded  his  father-in-law  in  the  occupancy  of  this  house.  Like  most  of 
the  Kirkwall  houses,  it  stood  with  its  gable  to  the  street,  and  in  1690  there  was  a  house  behind. 
"  Tuesday,  29th  July  1690,  Andro  Lyell,  Notary  Public,  was  married  to  Elspeit  Brown,  eldest 
daughter  of  Thomas  Brown,  Notary  Public,  bi  Mr  Jon.  Wilson,  Minister  in  Kirkwall." 

"Thursday,  14th  day  of  Augt.  1690,  Andro  Lyell,  with  his  wyfe,  flitt  to  the  house 
possest  t  by  them  pertaining  to  Baillie  Young  on  the  west  end  of  his  dwelling  house."t 

Young  was  succeeded  in  his  dwelling  house  by  his  son,  Andrew,  and  he,  in  1764,  by 
Andrew  Dick  of  Wormadale,  **  nearest  and  lawful  heir  by  the  mother's  side  of  the  deceast 
Andrew  Young,  Commissar  of  Orkney,  his  uncle." 

In  1803  this  property,  then  in  a  very  ruinous  condition,  was  exposed  for  sale  by  public 
roup,  Edward  Gorie  being  auctioneer,  and  was  knocked  down  at  £510  to  Dr  John  Heddle^ 
Surgeon  of  the  Forces.  The  new  proprietor  at  once  gave  his  mother,  Mrs  Elizabeth  Flett, 
widow  of  John  Heddle,  a  liferent  interest  in  the  houses  he  had  purchased. 

Dr  Heddle's  father  was  John  Heddle,  Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall.  He  married,  177S| 
Elizabeth  FJett,  daughter  of  John  Flett,  merchant,  Cletts,  South  Ronaldshay,  in  which  island 
the  Fletts  had  held  knds  from  a  very  remote  period.  John  Heddle  and  his  wife  had  sixteen 
children,  the  eldest  being  John,  "  Surgeon  to  the  Forces."    Dr  Heddle  is  believed  to  have  been 

*  Babbit  skins.  f  Occupied  or  rented.  :|:  T.  B. 


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206  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNI£YS. 

the  first  officer  who  ever  picked  up  and  threw  overboard  a  live  shell,  though  since  his  time  the 
feat  has  been  performed  more  than  once.  In  his  case  the  margin  of  time  was  so  narrow  that 
the  shell,  bursting  just  as  it  struck  the  water,  destroyed  several  of  the  Doctor's  fingers.  When 
the  British  garrison  evacuated  Goree,  Heddle  stuck  to  the  place,  and,  with  the  help  of  the 
natives  and  a  few  white  people  who  adhered  to  him,  beat  off  the  enemy,  with  the  result  that 
the  Doctor  negotiated  the  terms  of  the  evacuation.  Being  a  non-combatant,  all  he  obtained 
from  the  Government  was  a  reprimand  for  not  being  in  his  place  in  the  rear  with  the  wounded, 
though  the  British  had  retreated  without  the  loss  of  a  man.  The  Trustees  of  the  Patriotic 
Fund,  however,  voted  him  a  piece  of  silver  plate  and  an  address  of  thanks  for  his  conduct. 
He  died  unmarried,  but  left  three  illegitimate  children,  one  of  whom  was  killed  in  Western 
Africa  fighting  under  Sir  Charles  Macartney.  There  are  Heddles  yet  on  the  west  coast  of 
Africa.* 

Dr  Baikie  enjoyed  at  Sierra  Leone  the  hospitality  of  one  of  them  :— "To  Mr  Heddle  I 
stand  especially  indebted ;  hb  house  was  during  the  whole  time  my  home,  a  large  and  airy 
apartment  was  set  aside  for  me  for  writing  in  and  for  receiving  deputations  from  the  coloured 
population,  and  all  my  enquiries  were  most  kindly  furthered."  This  was,  in  1854,  on  the 
Doctor's  way  home  from  his  first  expedition  to  the  Niger.  His  second  expedition  proved  fatal 
to  himself,  and  here,  in  Mr  Heddle's  house,  he  died,  12th  Dec.  1864. 

In  1817,  Robert  Heddle,  Paymaster  of  His  Majesty's  Royal  African  Regiment  of  Foot, 
succeeded  to  the  property  of  his  brother,  Dr  John.  Mr  John  Tait,  merchant,  bought  the  house 
in  Albert  Street  from  Robert  Heddle  of  Melsetter,  and  built  a  new  house  on  the  site.  He 
also  erected  a  storehouse  at  the  foot  of  his  yard,  and  as  this  encroached  on  the  Peerie  Sea,  he 
was  called  to  account  by  the  vigilant  magistrates  ;  but  as  Mr  Tait  had  set  his  house  back  from 
the  frontage  of  the  former  tenement,  thus  widening  the  street,  he  was  graciously  allowed  to 
build  the  sea  wall  of  his  storehouse  in  the  water.  This  is  now  represented  by  the  office  of  Mr 
T.  S.  Peace,  architect. 

Mr  Tait  left  his  property  to  the  Session  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church. 

From  this  house,  as  far  as  the  double  tenement  at  the  south-west  corner  of  Albert  Street, 
was  **  Buchanan's  great  yard.*' 

Before  1665,  nearly  a  half  of  this  yard,  on  the  southern  side,  had  been  acquired  by  David 
Kirkness,  merchant. 

In  1676,  David's  widow,  Helen  Wilson,  had  a  double  tenement  on  this  site.  In  Kirk- 
ness' title  it  is  described  as  "  of  old  pertaining  to  the  Chaplanrie  of  Sanct  Salvator,  situate 
within  ye  cathedral  kirk  of  Orkney,  Lyand  contigue  within  the  town  of  Kirkwall,  having  ye 
ground  sometyme  pertaining  to  ye  heirs  of  ye  umqul  Sir  William  Sinclair  of  Warsetter,  Knyt, 
and  now  to  Mr  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound,  on  the  North."  From  this  the  inference  is  fair 
that  Buchanan's  "great  lodging"  had  been  the  town  house  of  the  Sinclairs  of  Warsetter. 

On  4th  March  1690,  Mr  John  Watt,  "practitioner  of  ffysick,"  sometime  master  of  the 
Grammar  School,  was  married  to  Margaret  Kirkness,  and  this  house  became  theirs. 

The  Watts  sold  it  to  Bailie  David  Traill.  From  him  it  went  to  Sinclair,  tacksman  of 
Rapness,  who  sold  it  to  George  Traill  of  Holland.  In  1760,  Robert  Laing,  merchant,  acquired 
"  George  Traill's  double  tenement  of  houses,  high  and  low,"  and  here,  in  1762,  was  born  one  of 
Kirkwall's  most  distinguished  sons,  Malcolm  Laing,  the  historian.  Here,  also,  was  un- 
doubtedly written  so  much  of  his  History  of  Scotland  as  was  not  written  in  Edinburgh. 

On  the  death  of  his  father,  1805,  Malcolm  Laing  sold  this  house  to  Sheriff  Nicolson  and 
his  wife,  Elizabeth  Balfour.    From  them  it  was  bought  by  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankemess. 

*  InformatioD  received  from  J.  G.  Moodie-Heddle,  Esq.  of  Melsetter. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND. 


207 


In  his  last  will  and  testament,  the  Laird  of  Tankerness  left,  in  liferent  to  his  daughters, 
Mary  and  Frances,  the  choice  of  one  of  two  dwelling-houses  in  case  his  heir  did  not  make 
choice  within  six  months  of  the  testator's  death  as  to  which  he  wished  to  retain.  The  houses 
were  that  part  of  Tankemess  House,  which  was  of  old  the  Sub-chantry,  and  Malcolm  Laing's 
house,  purchased  from  Sheriff  Nicolson. 

If  either  of  the  ladies  married,  her  share  was  to  go  to  the  other.  Mary  Baikie  took  to 
matrimony,  marrying  first,  Lieut.  William  Sinclair  Robertson,  95th  Regiment  of  Foot,  and 
second,  Lieut.  Jeremiah  Skelton,  R.N.  Thus,  Miss  Frances  Baikie  became  sole  liferentriz. 
After  her  death  it  became  the  town  house  of  the  Heddles  of  Melsetter. 

The  late  John  Heddle  sold  it  to  T.  H.  Sclater,  druggist,  for  an  annual  payment  of  £60,  this 
sum  covering,  in  twenty  years,  principal  and  interest.  The  purchaser,  taking  advantage  of  the 
position  of  the  house,  standing,  as  it  does,  back  from  the  line  of  the  street,  built  in  front  a  row 
of  one-storey  shops,  let  all  that  he  did  not  require  for  his  own  purposes,  and  largely  from  these 
rents  paid  for  the  property. 

Buchanan's  piece  of  ground  on  the  west  side  of  the  street,  though  reduced  in  size  by 
David  Kirkness'  purchase,  was  still  so  large  as  to  be  known  as  the  "  great  yard."  After  the 
Laird  of  Sound,  it  had  successively  belonged  to  the  Earl  of  Morton,  Thomas  Lindsay,  and 
Magnus  Lindsay,  when,  in  1803,  Lindsay's  Trustees,  William  Lindsay  of  Caldale  and  the  Rev. 
George  Barry,  put  it  up  to  auction  at  an  upset  price  of  £400.  **  At  the  outrunning  of  the 
sandglass"  it  was  knocked  down  to  Dr  Groat  for  £500.  In  1821,  the  Doctor  sold  the  northern 
half  to  Andrew  Henderson  and  Margaret  Mackenzie,  his  wife,  and  the  southern  to  James 
Fotberingham,  tidewaiter,  and  Elizabeth  Wilson,  his  spouse.  Fotheringham  apparently  did 
not  feel  inclined  to  build,  and  he  sold  his  portion  to  James  Spence,  shipmaster,  and  Anne 
Rendall,  his  wife.  That  such  an  important  site  should  be  unbuilt  on  till  1821  shows  the  slow 
growth  of  the  town.  Mr  Henderson's  part  of  the  property  now  belongs  to  Mr  David  B.  Peace, 
and  Captain  Spence's  to  the  widow  of  the  late  Mr  James  Gumming,  merchant. 

In  1630,  the  house  at  the  south-west  corner  of 
Albert  Street  belonged  to  Robert  Henryson  of  Holland. 
With  its  pertinents  it  occupied  the  space  from  "the 
king's  castell  on  the  south,"  to  "the  yard  now  ptaining 
to  Sir  John  Buchanan  of  Scotscraig  on  the  north."  On 
the  betrothal  of  his  eldest  son,  William,  to  Margaret 
Graham,  daughter  of  the  bishop,  17th  November  of  the 
above  year,  Robert  Henryson  gave  this  house  to  the 
young  couple.    The  bride's  tocher  was  6000  merks. 

The  Thesaurarie  had  been  set  in  tack  by  Cuthbert 
Henryson,  Treasurer  of  the  Cathedral,  to  his  son, 
Robert,  and  this  also  was  given  to  William  and  his 
wife  for  all  the  time  the  tack  should  run,  and,  along 
with  the  house,  the  reversion  of  North  Ronaldshay. 

The  Henryson  estate  was  considerable.  William 
had  to  pay  to  his  brothers  and  sisters  as  under  : — To  Helen,  £1000  Scots  within  one  year  and 
a  day  from  the  father's  death  ;  Harrie,  £1000  in  two  years  ;  Beatrix,  1000  merks  in  three  years  ; 
Robert,  1000  merks  in  four  years  ;  Bessie,  1000  merks  in  five  years ;  and  Margaret,  1000  merks 
in  six  years. 

Henryson's  house  in  Albert  Street  was  bought  by  James  Baikie,  on  a  title  which  was  not 

•  The  letters  on  each  side  of  the  shield,  "  V  "  and  **  H,"  are  the  Treasurer's  initials,  William 
Henryson.     On  the  tombstone  are  his  wife's  initials,  **  M.B."    The  date  is  1682. 


From  Tombstone  in  Cathedral.' 


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208  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

quite  satisfactory,  but  Baikie  was  just  the  man  to  run  a  risk  for  the  chance  of  a  bargain. 
Here  he  carried  on  the  business  which  rapidly  made  him  the  wealthiest  commoner  in  Orkney. 
He  left  the  house  in  liferent  to  his  wife,  Barbara  Smith,  and  in  fee  to  their  son,  George.  On 
his  mother^s  death,  in  1672,  George  Baikie  went  through  the  form  of  surrendering  the  place  to 
the  Magistrates  and  rebuying  from  them  on  a  valid  title.  The  place  was  then  sold  to  George 
Mowat  of  Pow,  who  built  a  new  house  on  the  site. 

Mowat's  two  sons,  Patrick  and  John,  successively  owned  and  occupied  it.  The  former 
borrowed  money  from  David  Traill,  one  of  the  Holland  family,  granting  a  bond  over  this 
tenement,  and,  the  latter  accepting  the  difference  between  the  bond  and  the  value  of  the 
property,  Traill  became  owner. 

From  him  it  was  acquired  by  Andrew  Liddell,  shoemaker,  who  let  two-thirds  of  it  to  John 
Biddoch,  Stewart  Clerk  of  Orkney.  Liddell  was,  in  his  day,  a  pillar  of  two  churches.  He 
was  treasurer  of  St.  Magnus,  but,  when  the  Secession  movement  began,  he  left  the  Old  Kirk 
and  took  a  prominent  part  in  starting  the  New. 

Liddeirs  daughter,  Margaret,  sold  her  father's  house  to  John  Traill  of  Westove,  whose 
brother,  Walter,  minister  of  Lady  Parish,  Sanday,  succeeded  to  this  and  the  rest  of  John's 
property. 

"  Mr  Traill  was  a  man  of  singular  benevolence  and  kindness  of  disposition."  *  He  had 
been  minister  of  Bressay  for  a  short  time,  when,  in  1791,  Sir  Thomas  Dundas  presented  him 
to  Lady  Parish  in  Sanday.  In  1789,  he  married  Miss  Margaret  MacBeatk  In  1810,  he 
demitted  his  charge,  and  Mr  Logie  was  appointed  to  succeed  him. 

In  1824,  Mr  Logie  was  called  to  Kirkwall.  In  1825,  Mr  TraiU  married  Miss  Catherine 
Watt,  and  on  the  presentation  of  Lawrence,  Lord  Dundas,  he  resumed  his  former  charge.  To 
retire  from  pastoral  work  for  fourteen  years  and  then  to  go  back  to  the  old  congregation,  is  a 
unique  experience  in  clerical  life. 

Many  instances  could  be  recalled  of  Mr  Traill's  liberality  in  money  matters.  Mr  Grant, 
in  the  neighbouring  parish  of  Cross  and  Burness,  sometimes  appealed  for  a  loan  to  his 
wealthier  brother  in  Lady  Kirk,  and  the  loans  apparently  came  to  be  regarded  on  both  sides 
as  gifts.  On  one  occasion  Mr  Grant  stood  in  urgent  need  of  a  considerable  sum  of  money, 
and,  as  usual,  came  to  Mr  Traill,  who,  after  the  interview,  said  to  his  wife,  "  Per  George,  I 
have  this  morning  made  a  great  saving.  Father  Grant  asked  the  loan  of  eighty  pounds  and  I 
had  only  forty  to  give  him." 

A  pair  of  ardent  lovers  whom  cruel  parents  debarred  from  marriage,  engaged  a  boat  to 
pick  them  up  out  past  Cromwell's  Fort,  and  fled  to  Sanday  to  be  united.  Mr  Traill,  who  was 
related  to  one  or  perhaps  both  of  the  fugitives,  and  knew  the  whole  circumstances  of  the  case, 
sympathisingly  complied.  The  knot  had  scarcely  been  tied  when  the  pursuers  arrived  at  the 
manse.  Mr  Traill,  as  he  expected,  was  angrily  attacked  for  his  share  in  the  business,  but  his 
philosophical  return  was  the  simple  question,  "  Per  George,  what  could  I  do  but  marry  the 
poor  things  1" 

After  the  death  of  Mr  Traill  in  1846,  this  place  was  bought  for  the  site  by  Mr  Iverach, 
chemist,  who  built  the  present  houses. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Strynd,  and  at  the  comer  of  the  churchyard,  was  a  space  anciently 
known  as  the  King's  Yards,  and  afterwards  as  Castleyards,  and  here,  early  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  stood  a  cluster  of  four  houses,  three  in  line  facing  the  street  and  one  behind  them. 
The  largest  of  these  was  bought  from  Douglas  of  Spjmie,  Lord  Morton's  factor,  by  William 
Young.  Young  waa  Morton's  girnell  man,  and  as  the  Earl  got  a  wadset  of  Orkney  in  1647, 
that  year  was  probably  the  date  of  William  Young's  arrival  in  Kirkwall,  and  of  the  purchase 

♦  Faati. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO   STRYND.  20& 

of  this  house.  He  also  bought  a  house  on  the  other  side  of  the  street  within  the  precincts  of 
the  Castle.  He  died  an  old  man,  10th  June  1675,  having  lived  to  see,  at  all  events,  four  great- 
grandchildren. 

In  the  Valuation  Roll  of  1677,  his  house  is  thus  described  :— "  William  Young  his  airis 
hath  ane  large  double  tenement  qrof  the  largest  part  under  sclaitt  roofe  pntlie  possessed  be 
Andro  Young."  The  western  boundary  is  given  as  "  the  weast  ground  and  calsey  at  ye  back 
of  ye  cross  qr  ye  cross  stood  of  old."  So  long  ago  as  1677  the  original  position  of  the  Cross 
was  something  beyond  memory,  and  only  known  from  documents. 

At  this  time  Castleyards  consisted  of  at  least  two  sides  of  a  close,  which  was  probably 
entered  through  an  arched  gateway.*  Very  likely  the  mansion  formed  three  sides  of  a  R<iuare> 
a  style  of  house-building  much  in  favour  with  the  wealthy  burgesses  of  those  days. 

South  from  Young's  double  tenement  was  a  house  which,  in  1676,  belonged  to  the  heirs 
of  Patrick  Prince,  and  was  occupied  by  William  Watt,  "  i)erriwig  maker."  It  is  described  as 
"  of  old  pertaining  to  Mr  John  Stewart,  Reidar."  It  had  also  belonged  to  Patrick  Halcro,  the 
traitorous  ringleader  in  Robert  Stewart's  rebellion.  The  third  house  in  Castleyards  belonged 
to  Margaret  Seater,  and  the  fourth  to  the  burgh.  All  these  Andrew  Young  acquired,  making 
himself  the  sole  proprietor  of  the  Yards.  He  also  bought  Scatter  and  Holland  from  Douglas 
of  Spynie,  and  thus  laid  the  foundation  of  the  landed  estate  of  the  family. 

There  were  three  Andrews  in  succession,  and  each  of  them  in  turn  might  be  described  as 
the  most  prominent  man  of  his  day  in  Kirkwall,  best  known  to  government  and  most  relied 
on  for  county  business. 

The  first  Andrew  was  an  elderly  man  when  his  father  died.  In  1660,  he  had  seen  his  son 
William  married  to  Barbara  Moncrieff,  and  had  given  him  eighteen  hundred  merks.  In  his 
will,  dated  1662,  thirteen  yeai*s  before  his  father's  death,  he  states,  i)erhaps  for  the  old  man's 
benefit,  "  As  regarding  my  worldly  meanes,  goods  or  gear,  any  thing  God  hath  blest  me  with 
hath  been  acquired  by  myself  and  my  loveing  spouse,  Marion  Meason,  our  own  industry." 
He  then  constitutes  his  wife  his  sole  executrix.  She  was  to  have  life-rent  of  all  his  i)roperty^ 
"And  her  sone  shall  not  come  to  enjoy  any  part  thereof  so  long  as  she  lives,  except  what  his 
good  behaviour  towards  her  and  her  o^iie  good  will  shall  allow  him.  And  if  at  the  sight  of 
Patrick  Blair  of  Littleblair,  that  our  said  son,  William  Young,  after  my  decease,  shall  come 
short  of  paying  all  duty  and  filial  respect  to  his  mother,"  he  gave  his  executrix  permission  to 
leave  a  sum  of  500  merks  to  any  of  her  friends.  To  all  this  William,  now  two  years  married, 
signs  as  consenting.  But  William  predeceased  his  father,  and  so  was  not  affected  by  the  will. 
He  was  evidently  a  good  business  man,  a  bailie  and  burgh  treasurer,  and  though  he  died  in 
the  prime  of  life,  he  had  made  money  enough  to  buy  Orquil  in  1674.  William  Young  and 
Barbara  Moncrieff  had  four  sons  and  a  daughter.  Their  eldest  son,  William,  died  in  infancy^ 
and  the  second  son,  Andrew,  became  heir  to  his  father  and  his  grandfather. 

WTiile  Andrew  the  elder  was  keeper  of  the  king's  girnell,  his  brother,  Thomas,  was 
receiver  of  the  bishopric  rents.  David  Forbes,  Kirk  Treasurer,  reported  that  he  had  received 
from  Mr  Thomas  Young,  twenty-five  meills  of  malt,  t 

Thomas  Young  married  Helen  Traill,  of  the  Holland  family,  widow  of  Thomas  Kirkness^ 
skipper.  Kirkness  must  have  been  fairly  successful  in  some  contraband  business,  for  an 
entry  in  the  Session  Records,  29th  April  1672,  refers  to  "  the  illegal  wonne  geier,  wonne  in  her 
first  husband,  Thomas  Kirkness,  his  tym." 

The  marriage  of  the  second  Andrew  of  Castleyards  apparently  took  place  in  the  south, 
and  it  came  as  a  surprise  to  his  friends.  Thomas  Brown  enters  under  date  3rd  June  1687 — 
"  Friday  night,  about  12,  Andro  Young  of  Castleyards,  with  Thomas  Young,  his  brother,  and 
•  Ante,  p.  133..  t  S.  R.,  28th  July  1669. 


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210  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Andro  Young,  son  to  Bailie  Young,  took  boat  from  Kirkwall  to  Sanday  to  ship  by  that  ship 
which  was  loading  with  bear,  bound  for  Leith."  Then,  30th  July—"  Saty.— It  was  declared 
by  Bailie  James  Young  that  his  brother,  Andrew,  was  married  to  Jean  Moncrieff/'  On 
August  31st — "At  night,  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  with  his  wife,  Jean  Moncrieff, 
entered  their  dwelling-house  and  actual  residence  in  Kirkwall." 

Under  date  13th  May  1688,  Brown  enters — "Sabbath  night,  about  10  or  yrby,  Jean 
Moncrieff,  spouse  to  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  was  brought  to  bed  of  a  man  chyld,  and 
yrafter  baptised  upon  the  17  day  of  said  month,  quhois  name  is  Thomaa."  This  son  probably 
died  in  infancy,  but  they  had  another,  William,  who  planted  the  trees  in  Caatleyard's  garden. 
He  died  unmarried  and  disinherited.* 

After  the  death  of  his  first  wife,  Andrew  Young  married  Margaret,  eldest  daughter  of 
William  Mackenzie,  commissary,  and  grand-daughter  of  Bishop  Murdoch.  In  granting  her 
life-rent  of  his  property,  he  makes  a  reservation,  "  that  my  eldest  son  of  the  second  Marriage 
Surviving  for  the  time,  or  the  heir  of  the  eldest  son,  if  any,  shall  have  my  haill  silver  work 
with  my  new  house  Clock,  the  Pitors  in  my  Dineing  Roume,  and  my  Chist  of  Drawers  and 
Scrutore,  and  sword  and  pistols,  and  two  best  guns  to  pertain  to  himself  without  any 
division." 

It  was  ordained  that  Mrs  Young,  "  being  personally  present,"  should  take  "  deliverance 
for  her  self,  and  in  name  of  her  children,  of  the  keys  of  the  chists  and  cabinets,  ane  chair,  ane 
candlestick,  ane  Horse  by  the  Head,  ane  Cow  by  the  Lug,  and  other  Symbols  of  the 
Pleanishing,  uttincills  and  Domicills,  necessary  to  the  Praemises." 

In  leaving  his  property  to  the  eldest  son  of  the  second  marriage,  Mr  Young  provided  for 
his  other  children  :  to  James  and  Charles,  1000  merks  each  ;  to  Mary,  his  eldest  daughter, 
1800  merks ;  to  Sybilla,  his  second  daughter,  1000  merks ;  and  to  Barbara,  Christian,  and 
Elizabeth,  each  800  merks. 

The  eldest  daughter,  Mary,  married  John  Riddoch,  eldest  son  of  George  Riddoch  of 
Bleroch.  He  was  a  writer  in  Edinburgh,  and  came  to  Kirkwall  in  1732  as  Sheriff-Clerk  on  a 
commission  from  George,  Earl  of  Morton.  The  second  daughter,  Sybilla,  married  James 
Gordon  of  Cairston. 

Castleyards  was  the  busiest  man  in  Kirkwall  of  his  day.  As  keeper  of  the  girnell,  he 
required  to  be  continually  giving  out  meal  on  credit,  and  as  money  was  very  scarce  in  Orkney 
among  the  bulk  of  the  people,  he  had  difficulty  in  avoiding  bad  debts.  Frequently  the 
girnell-keeper  had  to  cit€  a  number  of  his  customers  before  the  Burgh  Court.  Young  kept 
his  books  carefully,  and  gave  in  a  yearly  account  of  his  intromissions.  As  receiver  of  rents 
for  Alexander  Brand,  tacksman,  1693,  his  salary  waa  £266  13s  4d  Scots.  The  following  year, 
as  collector  for  their  Majesties  William  and  Mary,  he  paid  to  the  Session  £200  as  a  gift  from 
the  Crown. 

All  kinds  of  offices  of  trust  were  thrust  upon  him.  The  Commissioners  of  Supply, 
"  haveing  hade  sufficient  tryell  and  experience  of  the  qualifications,  honesty,  and  fidelity  of 
Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  and  of  his  fitness  for  officiating,"  appointed  him  their  Clerk 
and  Collector  of  Cess. 

While  Episcopacy  prevailed  in  the  Cathedral,  Castleyards  wrought  very  pleasantly  with 
ministers  and  Session,  and  got  from  them  any  favour  which  they  could  reasonably  grant  In 
1689,  he  obtained  permission  to  erect  a  seat  for  his  servants  "  at  the  back  of  the  dask,  with 
this  special  provise  that  it  stoppt  not  the  passage  to  the  Graham's  Loft." 

Even  after  Presbyterianism  waa  fully  established,  we  find  him  receiving  favours.    In 

*  T.  W,  Ranken. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND.  211 

March  1703,  he  asked  and  obtained  pennission  to  break  open  a  door  in  the  mutual  wall 
between  his  backyard  and  the  kirkyard. 

'*  In  reference  to  the  desyre  of  Andrew  Young,  the  Session  having  taken  the  same  at  this  time  to 
their  consideration,  do,  with^the  advyce  of  the  magistrate  present,  there  being  no  more  of  them  in 
tonn,  give  Libertie  to  the  said  Andrew  Young  to  Break  out  a  door  on  the  foresaid  Dyke,  having 
entrie  through  the  church  yaird,  as  also  to  big  a  stare  at  the  nucke  of  his  house,*  qrby  they  may  have 
access  to  the  church  yaird  in  order  to  their  passing  to  the  sd.  Door,  with  this  special  provision,  that 
he  and  his  shall  be  oblidged  to  keep  up  the  sd.  stare,  and  to  make  it  unaccessible  to  beasts." 

It  is  observable  that  the  only  Magistrate  at  that  meeting  was  Bailie  William  Young. 
But  Andrew  fell  out  with  the  Church,  and  on  one  occasion,  in  language  more  forcible 
than  elegant,  he  expressed  his  opinion  regarding  the  clergy  of  Orkney : — 

"  The  qlk  day  t  it  was  rei^resented  that  Andrew  Young  of  Oastleyards  had  most  basely  slandered 
and  cursed  the  ministers  of  this  Preerie.  and  of  the  whole  Synod,  bidding  God  damn  them  for  a  pack 
of  knaves.     The  Presbyterie  thought  fitt  to  deferr  this  untill  Mr  Robert  Douglas  came  to  the  town." 

And  then  they  thought  fit  to  defer  it  altogether.  Mr  Douglas,  who  was  evidently  an 
important  witness  in  the  case,  was  the  Earl  of  Morton's  brother. 

The  outburst  was  probably  occasioned  by  the  persecution  which  the  episcopal  congr^ga- 
gation  was  enduring  at  the  hands  of  the  Presbytery  and  Synod. 

But  Mr  Young  was  obliged  to  fall  back  upon  the  Session  in  time  of  need.  Representa- 
tions were  made  to  the  Government  that  he  had  been  **  accessory  to  the  late  rebellious 
practices  J  in  this  place,"  and  he  had  to  beg  from  the  kirk  a  certificate  of  loyalty.  This  the 
Session  granted,  being  obliging  enough  to  sacrifice  truth  in  order  to  secure  the  safety  of  their 
townsman. 

From  the  unsettled  state  of  the  country,  and  the  number  of  fugitive  Jacobites  on  the 
move,  such  certificates  were  required  by  all  travellers  as  necessary  passports.  Thus,  "  on  acct* 
of  rebellious  practices  of  some,"  the  Kirkwall  Presbytery,  1716,  granted  certificates  of  loyalty 
to  George  Gibson,  David  Strang,  and  George  Richan,  who  purposed  going  south.  The  same 
year  the  Presbytery  sent  no  representative  to  the  Assembly  "  on  acct.  of  dangers  from  rebels.'* 


-Q^?jdn^n^>tj  (W^oii^ 


Young  was  Provost  of  Kirkwall  for  a  couple  of  years,  and  he  occasionally  found  Council 
work  trying  to  the  temper.  On  the  17th  August  1711,  he  reminded  the  Council  that  in  April 
of  the  previous  year,  when  he  was  Dean-of-Guild,  he  had  been  grossly  insulted  by  George 
Bichan  of  Linklater,  who  had  interrupted  him  in  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of  his  office.  He 
admits  "  that  he,  the  said  Provost,  did  grapple  with  the  said  George  Richan,  for  which  he 
declares  himself  sorry,  and  regrats  that  he  did  not  rather  accept  of  the  abuse  without  any 
resentment  except  a  salute."  He  had  been  fined  £100  Scots  for  the  assault,  and  had  given 
bond  for  payment.  He  wishes  the  Council  to  consider  the  provocation,  and  return  the 
bond.    This  they  agree  to  do,  because,  as  they  say,  he  was  "  intolerably  provocked." 

*  From  this  description,  and  the  run  of  the  churchyard  wall,  Andrew  Young's  house  must  have 

occupied  the  site  of  the  old  Custom  House.  

t  P.  R.,  11th  Feb.  1709.  X  Proclamation  of  James  VHL 


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212  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Richan  had  at  the  same  time  been  fined  500  inerks,  but  because  he  had  rendered  great 
services  to  the  burgh,  and  to  encourage  him  towards  future  acts  of  liberality,  they  reduced  his 
fine  to  £20  Scots,  the  mere  expenses  of  the  case. 

But  Castleyards  was  thwarted  by  the  Council  when  he  attempted  to  stretch  his  prero- 
gative. At  a  meeting  of  the  Town  Council,  5th  May  1724,  the  Provost,  John  Covingtrie  of 
Newark,  "  Represented  that  he  had  broake  some  Stones  for  Building  upon  the  ground  below  the 
mount  or  fort  lying  on  the  East  of  the  Harbour  of  Kirkwall,  and  that  he  was  Interrujited  by 
Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards  when  the  Boat's  men  came  to  carry  home  the  saids  stonas,  and 
therefore  desired  the  Judgemt.  of  the  Council!  in  that  affair.  The  Magistrates  and  Council], 
taking  the  same  into  their  consideration,  and  being  perfectly  satisfied  that  the  said  mount  or 
fort  had  been  still  in  the  possession  of  this  burgh,  By  the  Having  a  Great  Gun  mounted  there 
for  the  service  of  the  Government  and  for  the  safety  of  the  Burgh  in  Time  of  Warr  ;  and  also 
Considering  that  the  Inhabitants  of  this  Burgh  have  been  still  in  use  to  break  and  carry  away 
stones  from  the  Ground  below  the  said  Fort,  and  between  that  and  the  Burgh,  and  that  peacibly 
and  Quietly,  without  any  Interruption,  past  memory  of  man  :  Therefore,  they,  the  saids 
Magistrates  and  Councill,  una  voce,  are  of  unanimous  opinion  that  the  said  Andrew  Young  of 
Castleyeards  his  endeavouring  to  hinder  to  breake  or  carry  off  any  Stones  from  the  said 
Ground  is  ane  manifest  Incroachment  upon  the  just  priviledge  and  possession  of  the  said 
Burgh  and  destructive  to  the  policy  of  the  same  :  Therefore,  they  not  only  ordain  and 
authorize  the  Stones  lying  there  already  broaken  to  be  peacibly  and  quietly  Carried  off,  But  in 
all  Time  Coming  Doe  Impower  and  authorize  the  haill  Inhabitants  to  breake  and  Carry  off 
Stones  for  the  benefite  of  building  from  the  East  end  of  the  said  Burgh  to  the  utmost  part  of 
the  said  fort  or  mount,  or  in  any  other  alongst  the  Shoare,  where  they  have  been  in  Imme- 
morial! possession  ;  and  in  case  of  any  disturbance  to  the  Inhabitants  in  Breaking  or  Carrying 
away  the  said  stones,  They  doe  unanimously  agree  that,  upon  application  to  any  of  the 
Magistrates,  The  oflficers  of  this  Burgh  shall  be  furth  with  Sent  to  put  their  Sentence  in 
Executn.,  and  ordains  the  haill  Councill  to  attend  the  Magistrates  for  holding  ane  admirall 
Court  on  the  said  ground  instantly." 

Young  had  bought  Weyland,  or  a  part  of  it,  from  Stewart  of  Brugh,  in  1708,  hence  his 
attempt  at  interdict. 

Andrew  Young  died  in  1734,  and  was  succeeded  in  his  property  and  in  some  of  his 
appointments  by  the  eldest  son  of  his  second  marriage,  the  third  Andrew  of  Castleyards.  His 
widow,  Margaret  Mackenzie,  died  in  1760,  and  her  son  writes  to  his  uncle.  Colonel  Mac- 
kenzie : — **  This  serves  to  inform  you  that  your  sister,  Margaret  Mackenzie,  my  mother,  died  of 
a  fever,  Thursday  last,  and  that  your  sister,  Sybilla  Mackenzie,  after  a  long  and  tedious 
illness,  died  the  day  thereafter." 

Nine  years  before  his  father's  death,  this  Andrew  had  married  Barbara,  daughter  of 
Robert*  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  widow  of  David  Traill t  of  Sabay.  They  were  "cited  for 
clandestine  and  unorderly  marriage."  The  fault  was  that  "  on  10  April,  at  night,  they  unlaw- 
fully called  a  person  to  celebrate  the  marriage."  The  "  person  "  was,  without  doubt,  a  deposed 
episcopal  clergyman  ;  and  whether  father,  or  mother,  or  son  was  responsible  for  this  enormity 
does  not  appear,  but  for  the  crime  Young  was  fined  £500  Scots.  J  With  the  advent  of 
presbyterianism,  religious  persecution  had  not  ceased  in  Scotland. 

Andrew  Young  and  Barbara  Baikie  had  one  son  and  two  daughters.  The  son  Andrew, 
Captain  in  the  16th  Foot,  was  killed  at  the  siege  of  Belle  Isle,  1762. 

In  a  letter  to  Colonel  Mackenzie,  announcing  the  death  of  his  son,  Mr  Young  writes  : — 
"  I  am  well  informed  that  he  behaved  with  remarkable  bravery.  His  lot,  poor  man,  was  a 
*  T.  W.  Ranken  says  James  Baikie.     t  Dr  Traill's  Genealogy.     {  H.  L.,  from  Sheriff  Court  papers. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND.  213 

hard  one,  and  he  has  paid  the  last  debt  of  nature,  on  an  early  year,  in  the  service  of  his  King 
and  country  and  in  an  honourable  way." 

In  the  same  letter,  he  proceeds  to  say  : — "  My  eldest  daughter,  Peggie,  with  the  entire 
approbation  of  all  my  friends,  is  soon  to  alter  her  present  state,  and  is  to  enter  into  a  matri- 
monial one  with  James  Gordon,  eldest  son  to  James  Gordon  of  Kerston,  an  agreeable,  sensible 
young  man  as  any  in  the  Country.  He  was  educated  in  Holland,  in  the  mercantile  sphere, 
and  prosecutes  that  business,  which  affords  an  income  that  will  make  them  live  comfortably." 

In  1747,  Government  thought  fit  to  grant  postal  communication  between  Kirkwall  and 
Edinburgh,  and  the  organisation  of  the  new  system  on  this  side  of  the  Pentland  Firth  was  laid 
on  Castleyards.  When  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas  acquired  the  earldom  estate,  it  was  to  Andrew 
Young  he  wrote  as  the  representative  man  of  the  county  : — 

"  London,  31  July  1766. 

**  Sir, — I  make  no  doubt  but  that  you  have  been  informed  of  the  bargain  I  have  concluded  with 
the  Earl  of  Morton  for  hie  Estates  in  Orkney  and  Zetland.  As  my  being  proprietor  of  this  Estate 
^ves  me  a  considerable  interest  in  the  County  of  Orkney,  I  propose,  if  agreeable  to  the  Gentlemen 
Freeholders  there,  that  Mr  Dundas,  my  son,  shall  offer  his  services  as  Candidate  for  Member  of 
Parliament  at  the  next  General  Elections.  I  shall  be  very  happy  to  know  that  this  will  meet  with 
your  approbation,  and  that  my  Son  ma}'  expect  your  support  and  interest  at  the  Election.  One 
thing  I  can  venture  to  assure  you,  that  no  person  will  be  readier  and  have  more  satisfaction  in  serving 
the  Gentlemen  of  the  County  than  both  he  and  I  shall  have  upon  all  occasions. — I  am,  with  very  great 
regards,  Sir,  your  most  Obedient,  hum.  Servant,  (Signed)        Lawr.  Dundas. 

**  Mr  Andrew  Young." 

It  would  seem  to  those  who  have  only  bare  statistics  to  found  upon,  that  it  had  been  one 
of  the  terms  of  the  sale  that  the  seat  in  Parliament  should  go  to  the  family  of  the  purchaser. 
At  this  time  the  sitting  member  was  Sir  James  Douglas  of  St.  Ola,  one  of  the  Morton  family. 
He  was  a  distinguished  naval  officer,  and  rose  to  the  rank  of  Admiral.  He  was  elected  in 
1754,  and  was  on  active  service  abroad  during  a  considerable  part  of  his  membership.  He 
was  knighted  as  the  messenger  who  brought  the  news  of  the  capture  of  Quebec,  1757. 

Had  the  earldom  remained  in  Morton's  hands,  no  doubt  Sir  James  would  have  retained 
his  seat ;  but  in  1768,  the  first  election  after  the  transfer,  he  withdrew,  and  Mr  Thomas 
Dundas  took  his  place. 

It  has  been  seen  that  Captain  Andrew  Young  had  been  killed  in  action,  and  when  his 
father  passed  over  to  the  majority,  the  male  line  of  the  Youngs  became  extinct.  The  family 
now  came  to  be  represented  by  Mary,  the  sister  of  the  last  Andrew  of  Castleyards,  who  had 
married  Mr  John  Riddoch,  Sheriff  Clerk. 

The  site  of  the  South  Block  House  of  the  Castle,  which  the  Magistrates  had  bought  from 
Andrew  Young,  had  been  turned  to  account  as  a  flesh  market.  This  was  re-purchased  from 
the  Council  by  Mr  Riddoch,  and  here  he  had  built  his  dwelling-house. 

His  garden  extended  to  the  Peerie  Sea,  and  in  1770  he  had  permission  from  the  Town 
Council  to  "  flitt  his  wall "  twenty  feet  back.  After  the  manner  of  the  time,  his  kitchen  was  a 
separate  building.  In  1805,  he  gives  to  his  son,  James,  "  All  and  whole  the  said  John  Rid- 
doch's  Kitchen  or  Brewhouse,  at  the  back  of  his  dweUing-house,  and  on  that  place  where  the 
Old  Flesh  Market  stood,  and  to  which  he  had  right  from  the  Magistrates  and  Council  of 
Kirkwall." 

The  north  boundary  is  given  as  the  "  Ruins  of  the  Old  Castle  of  Kirkwall,"  and  the  south 
his  dwelling-house.  This  exactly  fixes  the  site  of  the  Old  Flesh  Market  as  that  occupied  by 
the  business  premises  of  Messrs  Peace  &  Low,  while  Provost  Riddoch's  house,  now  that  of  the 
widow  of  the  late  Provost  Peace,  occupied  the  waste  ground  belonging  to  the  South  Block  House. 

In  conveying  the  kitchen  or  brewhouse  to  his  son,  John  Riddoch  is  styled  Sheriff- 
Substitute.    In  those  days  the  duties  of  Sheriff-Clerk,  Sheriff-Substitute,  and  Sheriff-Officer 


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KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 


Stone  from  the  Earl's  Palace,  t 


were  strangely  mixed,  and  we  find  Mr  Riddoch  at  times  engaged  in  dangerous  work.  At  the 
kelp  riot  in  Stronsay,  when  swords  were  out  and  sticks  and  fists  were  active,  Mr  Riddoch  kept 
his  wits  about  him,  and  made  his  arrests  without  violence.*  Sometimes  he  got  scant  fairplay, 
as  when  a  reckless  man,  aiming  low,  took  a  sitting  shot  at  him,  with  an  uncomfortably 
accurate  aim.f 

As  already  stated^  James  Gordon,  yr.  of 
Cairston,  married  Margaret  Young,  niece  of  Mrs 
Riddoch.  In  this  connection,  Mr  Riddoch  made 
considerable  advances  of  money  to  assist  Gordon 
in  his  business  enterprises.  These  speculations, 
however,  proved  so  unsuccessful  that  Gordon's 
estate  was  put  up  for  sale  in  Edinburgh,  and  Mr 
Riddoch  holding  bonds  over  the  property,  to 
avoid  further  loss,  bought  Cairston. 

There  had  been  Gordons  in  Orkney  for  a  long 
time.  In  1589,  ^  William  Gordon,  Captaine  of 
the  Castell  of  Kirkwall,"  witnesses  Maijorie  San- 
dilands'  discharge  to  William  Irvying  of  the  rent 
of  300  merks  payable  by  him. 

In  March  1622,  Patrick  Gordon,  in  Sanday, 
grants  an  acknowledgment  for  £50  to  William  Gordon,  merchant,  KirkwaU ;  and  in  April 
of  the  same  year,  Patrick  Gordon,  Cairston,  receives  a  similar  favour,  to  the  amount  of 
£24,  from  John  Spence.  Possibly,  Patrick  of  Sanday  was  also  Patrick  of  Cairston,  but 
after  this  time  the  name  is  not  so  much  associated  with  the  North  Isles  and  with  Kirkwall 
as  with  Stromness  and  the  West  Mainland. 

The  first  of  the  family  to  appear  in  the  "  Rentals"  is  William  Gordon,  who,  in  1642,  §  had 
a  feu  of  How,  Bu'  of  Cairston,  Fewell,  Nenerschaw,  and  Garsend.  The  family  tradition  as  to 
the  first  Gordon  of  Cairston  is  that  a  young  member  of  the  Huntly  family  loved  a  maid  of  low 
degree.  But  the  girl  had  a  suitor  in  her  own  station  of  life  whom  she  preferred.  The  scion  of 
nobility  could  not  challenge  the  lowly  swain,  so  he  simply  stabbed  him  ;  and  when  he  saw  his 
rival  dead,  he  took  flight  to  save  his  own  life.  He  came  to  Orkney,  and  found  employment  as 
gardener  to  Buchanan  of  Sound.  After  some  years,  his  family  discovered  his  retreat,  and 
unable,  or  perhaps  unwilling,  to  have  him  back,  sent  him  suflicient  money  to  take  a  feu  of  the 
lands  of  Cairston. 

A  more  recent  tradition  regarding  a  member  of  this  family  is  still  afloat.  It  is  said  that 
€k)w,  the  pirate,  while  in  Stromness,  won  the  affection  of  Miss  Gordon.  The  two  plighted 
their  troth  at  Stenness  by  joining  hands  through  the  Ring  of  Odin.  This  pledge  w£is  so  sacred 
that,  should  the  marriage  be  prevented  by  the  death  of  one  of  the  betrothed  persons,  the  other 
could  only  be  released  from  the  vow  by  touching  the  dead  hand  which  when  living  had  been 
clasped  through  Odin's  Ring.  Accordingly,  Miss  Gordon  went  to  London,  waited  the  trial  of 
the  pirates,  and  after  the  execution,  getting  permission  to  see  the  body  of  Gow,  redeemed  her 
pledge. 

James,  only  son  of  John  Riddoch,  who  had  in  1763  been  appointed  Sheriff'-Clerk  jointly 
with  his  father,  died  without  issue,  and  the  name  in  connection  with  Cairston  and  Castleyards 
became  extinct. 

*  See  ante,  p.  147.        t  See  ante,  p.  107. 

t  This  stone  was  built  into  what  was  Mr  Biddoch's  property,  now  Mrs  Peace's,  by  Mr  John 
Brace,  jailer,  who  was  a  tenant  of  this  house. 
f  Pet.  Rent.,  p.  16. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRTND. 


215 


Until  recently,  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  ships,  when  outward  bound,  made  an  annual 
call  at  Stromness.  In  Provost  Riddoch's  time,  Henry  Pollexfen,  an  official  of  high  standing  in 
the  Company's  service,  strolled  over  from  Stromness  to  have  a  look  at  Kirkwall.  He  was  a 
gay  widower,  and  he  found  Kirkwall  so  attractive  that  he  allowed  the  Hudson  Bay  squadron 
to  sail  without  him.  He  married  Mary,  eldest  daughter  of  Provost  Riddoch.  They  had  no 
children,  but  Henry  Pollexfen,  a  son  by  the  first  marriage,  coming  to  visit  his  father  and 
to  salute  his  stepmother,  found  Castleyards  so  pleasant  that  he  remained  and  married  Mr 
Riddoch's  second  daughter,  Margaret.  The  relationships  were  somewhat  mixed,  no  doubt 
— ^young  Henry  being  brother-in-law  to  his  own  father,  and  Margaret  calling  her  sister  mother- 
in-law— but  that  did  not  matter.  They  had  a  large  family,  the  ninth  child,  Thomas,  becoming 
the  ancestor  of  the  present  Pollexf  ens  of  Cairston. 

From  the  marriage  of  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards  and  Margaret  Mackenzie,  the  late 
Captain  Baikie  and  the  present  Balfours  of  Trenaby  are  descended  from  Bishop  Mackenzie  of 
pious  memory. 

Christina  Young,  the  prelate's  great-granddaughter,  married  John  Baikie,  and  Captain 
William  Balfour  married  Mary  Margaret  Baikie. 

At  the  back  of  Castleyards,  and  midway  up  the  Strynd,  was  the  Kirkwall  residence  of  the 
Stewarts  of  Burray. 

About  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  "  Burray,  Hounda,  Glowmesholme,  Flottay 
and  the  Calf,  Swethay  and  Swonney,  were  set  in  few  be  Adame,  Bischop  of  Orkney,  to  Lady 
Barbara  Stewart  and  hir  airis,  for  payment  yeirlie  of  £62  6s  8d,  24  pair  cumingis,  and  24 
maiss  of  Stra."*    Lady  Barbara  was  the  daughter  of  the  second  Lord  Levandale,  and  her 

nephew,  Archibald  Stewart,  Lord  Provost  of  Edinburgh, 
son  of  Sir  James  Stewart  of  Beith,  inherited  her  rights. 
Archibald's  nephew  followed,  and  his  only  child,  Barbara, 
married  William  Stewart,  brother  of  the  Earl  of  Galloway. 
Their  eldest  son,  James,  predeceased  his  father ;  their 
second  son,  Henry,  was  killed  fighting  under  Montrose 
at  Auldearn,  1645 ;  and  their  third  son.  Colonel  William 
of  Mains,  disponed  Burray  to  his  brother  Archibald,  the 
youngest  of  the  family. 

Archibald  was  a  steadfast  Boyalist,  and,  as  such, 
had  a  most  adventurous  career.  He  joined  the  Duke  of 
Hamilton  in  the  King's  cause,  was  captured,  and  escaped. 
He  followed  Montrose  from  Kirkwall  in  1650,  and  was 
taken  prisoner  after  the  rout  at  Corbisdale.  He  was 
condemned  to  death,  but  again  escaped.  He  joined 
Prince  Charles  in  his  attempt  to  regain  his  father's 
throne,  and  at  the  fatal  battle  of  Worcester,  1651,  he  was 
taken  a  prisoner  by  Cromwell's  men.  After  a  captivity 
of  several  months,  he  once  more  escaped.  When  the 
B^toration  came,  Charles  II.  made  him  a  baronet,  a  well- 
earned  distinction.t 

His  first  wife,  Isobel  Murray,  died  in  August  1683, 
and  in  September  of  the  same  year  he  married  "Katherine  Rowsay,  his  servatrix,  and 
daughter  to  Patrick  Rowsay,  indweller  in  Stronsay."  J 

In  1695,  Sir  Archibald  bought  the  house  in  the  Strynd  at  the  back  of  Castleyards  from 
♦  Pet.  Rent.,  ii.  106.  t  H.  L,  t  T.  B. 


Arms  of  Stewart  of  Burray. 


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216  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  and  it  became  the  town  residence  of  the  Stewarts  of  Burray. 
The  second  Sir  Archibald  led  an  uneventful  life ;  but  the  third  baronet,  Sir  James,  had  a 
history.  He  was  a  man  of  very  violent  temper.  He  quarrelled  with  the  Town  Council,  with 
his  neighbours,  and  with  every  one  opposed  to  him  on  any  subject.  Vedder  gives  an  amusing 
account  of  a  shooting  affair  which  took  place  on  Holm  Sound,*  for  which  Sir  James  paid  a 
very  heavy  fine. 

But  the  most  serious  assault  of  which  he  was  guilty  was  the  fatal  attack  on  Captain 
Moodic  of  Melsetter.  The  motive  for  this  act  of  violence  is  differently  stated.  Sir  James  and 
his  brother  Alexander,  poaching  on  the  Melsetter  estate,  had  been  caught  by  Moodie's 
servants,  who  took  their  guns  from  them.  For  this  Moodie  had  ai)ologised,  but  political 
rancour  rendered  apology  useless.  Tudor  makes  the  quarrel  lie  between  Alexander  Stewart 
and  the  Captain.f 

An  account  of  Moodie^s  murder  was  written  by  Robert  Honyman,  Sheriff  of  Orkney, 
within  half-an-hour  of  the  occurrence.  From  it  we  learn  that  at  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  26th  October  172.'),  Moodie  and  Honyman  were  passing  up  Broad  Street  to  attend  a 
meeting  of  Justices  of  the  Peace  in  the  Cathedral.  At  Bailie  Fea's  gate  t  they  were  met  by 
Sir  James  Stewart  and  his  brother  Alexander,  who  attacked  the  Captain  first  with  sticks  and 
then  with  swords.  The  gallant  old  seaman,  how^ever,  had  i)lenty  of  fight  in  him,  and  kept 
them  both  at  bay.  Moodie's  servant  and  the  Sheriff  got  hold  of  Alexander  Stewart,  while 
the  two  young  Honymans  and  the  Stewart  Clerk  kept  Sir  James  back.  Then  Burray,  in  his 
mad  fury,  called  on  his  servants  to  shoot  the  Captain.  One  shot  missed  the  intended  victim, 
but,  in  the  words  of  the  Sheriff,  "  it  lighted  on  my  third  son,  Peter,  and  cutt  the  rim  of  his 
belly."  Tradition  has  it  that  Sir  James  then  called,  "  Fire  again  ;  the  damned  Hanoverian 
has  more  lives  than  a  cat "  ;  and  the  second  shot  proved  fatal.  The  actual  murderers  escaped 
over  the  churchyard  wall  by  the  Castleyard  stei)s,  in  at  the  back  of  Stewart's  house,  out  at 
the  front,  and  off  to  the  Ferry.  The  instigators  left  town  the  same  night  before  Mr  Honyman 
could  induce  the  Magistrates  to  arrest  them. 

The  first  opjwrtunity  of  sending  a  letter  south  after  Captain  Moodie's  death  was  taken 
advantage  of  by  David  Traill,  yr.  of  Elsness,  to  write  to  his  uncle,  David  of  Sabay,  and  this 
letter  shows  that  Alexander  Stewart  w^as  the  prime  mover  in  the  unhappy  affair  : — 

"  Kirkwall,  Ist  Nov.  1725. 

"  Loving  Uncle, — This  serves  to  acquaint  you  that  your  Lady  and  Daur.  are  in  good  health,  as 
also  that  your  friend,  Alexander  Stewart,  Burray 's  brother,  had  ane  Incounter  upon  the  Street, 
Tuesday  last,  and  after  some  strokes  given  the  old  Captn.  by  Mr  S.,  ane  servt.  of  his  hred  two  pistols, 
qrof  the  Captn.  was  mortally  wounded,  and  died  of  his  wounds  yesterday  morning.  So  you  may 
ludge  the  event,  after  the  unlucky  misaccident  happened,  the  murderer  went  of  after  qt  maner  the 
Dearer  will  inform  you,  and  BuiTay  and  his  Broyr.  went  of  said  night.  So  all  good  men  should  be 
upon  their  guard,  but  it's  hard  guarding  against  Pistols.  1  am  sorry  the  Lyk  should  happened  any 
gentleman  by  ane  sneaking  Servant  boy.  What  turn  this  may  give  to  affairs,  I  do  not  know,  But  the 
Lord  work  his  own  work. — I  am,  with  all  respect,  Dear  Uncle,  your  affectionate  Nephew, 

David  Traill. 

"  Keep  this  to  yourself  from  me,  for  it  will  be  published  by  others.  My  kind  love  to  Peter 
Blair." 

The  Stewarts  escaped  to  the  Continent,  but,  after  six  years,  the  solicitations,  and  no 
doubt  misrepresentations,  of  friends,  procured  for  them  a  imrdon,  and  in  1731  Sir  James 
returned  to  Burray. 

Twenty  years  after  Moodie's  murder,  the  Stewart  brothers  are  said  to  have  joined  the 
army  of  "  Bonnie  Prince  Charlie."  The  tradition  goes  on  to  tell  that  Alexander  fell  at  Culloden, 

*  See  aiUe,  p.  107.  t  p.  231.  J  Near  the  door  of  the  Post-Office. 


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LONG  GUTTER  TO  STRYND.  217 

but  Sir  James  fled  for  refuge  to  his  own  little  island  kingdom.  Certain  it  is  that  Captain 
Benjamin  Moodie,  son  of  the  murdered  man,  found  Stewart  lurking  in  disguise  near  his  own 
house.  Sent  to  London,  he  was  lodged  in  Southwark  Jail  to  await  his  trial.  He  died  in 
prison,  and  his  death  is  perhaps  the  one  magnanimous  act  of  his  life.  Had  he  been  tried  for 
his  share  in  the  rebellion,  condemnation  would  certainly  have  followed,  and  his  estates  would 
have  been  forfeited,  while  to  escape  sentence  was  to  escape  confiscation. 

In  those  days  a  prisoner  could  purchase  anything  short  of  escape  ;  so  procuring  a  lancet 
or  other  pointed  instrument,  he  bled  himself  to  death,  and  his  estate  passed  to  the  Earl  of 
Galloway  as  nearest-of-kin. 

If  the  Stewarts  were  present  at  Culloden,  they  were  the  only  Orcadian  gentlemen  there. 
James  Fea  of  Clestrain,  who.  Captain  Moodie  said,  was  at  the  Pretender's  camp  at  Falkirk, 
was  home  again  before  the  final  rout. 

Several,  however,  were  punished  who  had  not  left  the  islands  and  who,  according  to  their 
own  showing,  were  most  loyal  to  the  House  of  Hanover. 

The  following  memorial  is  perhaps  the  best  narrative  that  can  be  had  of  the  state  of 
Orkney  in  1746.  Five  of  the  principal  houses  in  the  North  Isles  were  burned,  and  thair 
owners  were  compelled  to  take  to  the  rocks  for  safety.  The  story  of  Balfour  of  Trenaby  and 
his  four  friends,  hiding  in  the  Gentleman's  Cave  in  Westray,  seems  to  have  been  founded 
upon  the  treatment  these  gentlemen  received,  as  here  described  : — 

MEMOBIAL  OF  TRANSACTIONS  IN  ORKNEY  IN  1746. 

The  Case  of  Archibald  Stewart  op  Brugh,  John  Traill  of  Elsness,  John  Traill 
OF  Wbstness,  William  Balfour  of  Trenaby,  and  others. 

**  On  ocoMion  of  a  dispute  between  the  Ek^rl  of  Morton,  us,  and  other  Gentlemen  proprietors  of 
lands  in  Orkney,  touching  their  weights,  whereby  they  made  their  payments  of  corn,  butter,  etc.,  to 
the  E^rl  as  their  superior,  Andrew  Boss,  his  Lordship's  Sheriff-depute,  beins  highly  disobliged  with 
them  for  attempting  to  redress  their  grievances  on  this  article,  threatened  revenge  against  them, 
which  he  found  means  of  executing,  as  appears  from  the  following  narrative. 

**  In  the  spring,  Mr  Ross,  the  magistrates  of  Kirkwall,  and  other  gentlemen,  invited  us  and 
several  other  gentlemen  to  the  town,  to  consult  what  measures  should  be  taken  for  preserving  our 
country  from  ruin.  The  rebels  being  then  on  the  point  of  landing  there,  we,  pursuant  to  the  advice 
of  our  parish  ministers*  and  other  loyal  neighbours,  repaired  to  Kirkwall,  which  we  found  in  pos- 
session of  a  small  party  of  the  rebels,  detached  from  Caithness  by  Lord  Macleod  ;  and  the  Sheriff 
havinig  thus  drawn  us  into  the  snare,  sailed  himself,  with  the  Provost  of  the  burgh,t  to  Zetland.  So 
small  a  P<u*ty,  however,  jading  it  unsafe  to  continue  in  a  country  where  thev  had  so  few  friends, 
retumea  to  Caithness  and  rejoined  Lord  Macleod,  vowing  to  return  with  a  reinforcement  sufficient  to 
-execute  their  vengeance  on  these  islands. 

'*  In  this  situation,  being  sensibly  touched  with  the  calamity  that  threatened  our  country,  and 
deserted  by  our  Magistrates,  and  having  no  Justice  of  Peace  in  the  county  to  convocate  the  in- 
habitants to  arm  them  for  their  defence,  we  judged  it  prudent  to  write  a  letter  to  Lord  Macleod 
remonstrating  against  a  demand  of  land-men  from  a  country  inhabited  by  sea-faring  people  only; 
that  if  he  had  been  encouraged  to  expect  a  rising  here,  he  haa  been  much  misinformed,  as  the  genius 
of  these  islanders  led  them  to  the  sea  service ;  adding,  by  way  of  amusement  and  to  cajole  majijr  vm,  that 
had  the  demand  been  for  sailors  instead  of  soldiers,  it  might  have  been  more  successful ;  concluding, 
by  way  of  compliment  and  to  divert  their  jealousy  of  our  disaffection  to  them,  that  our  deliverance 
could  only  come  through  the  Prince.  Mr  Balfour  carried  this  letter  to  Caithness,  with  instruction 
not  to  deliver  it  unless  he  found  the  rebels  resolved  to  reland  in  Orkney,  which  by  correspondence 
with  some  of  their  officers  he  discovered  with  certainty,  and  that  they  had  ordered  vessels  for  that 
purpose ;  whereupon  he  delivered  the  letter  to  Lord  Macleod,  and  by  Ms  address  prevailed  on  him 
to  lay  aside  the  project. 

*'  Though  this,  and  only  this,  letter  is  the  reason  given  out  for  the  following  violences,  yet  it  is 
Bubmitted,  u  it  ou^ht  not  rather,  on  the  contrary,  to  be  commended  as  a  laudable,  ingenious,  and 
prudent  expedient  m  such  a  dangerous  conjuncture,  and  the  more  so  still  as  it  answered  our  plot  and 
view  by  saving  our  country  from  the  impending  storm  ;  to  which  we  add,  that  as  there  was  not  one 

*  Cowan,  Westray  ;  Covingtrie,  Sanday ;  Jamieson,  Rousay.        f  James  Baikie  of  Tankemess. 

2F 


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i218  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

man  in  the  whole  country  that  joined  the  rebels,  which  in  some  measure  may  be  ascribed  to  our 
influence  and  example,  so  we,  as  well  as  every  individual  that  suffered  from  the  following  violences, 
were  educated  in  and  made  open  profession  of  the  Presbyterian  religion  established  by  law  in  Scot- 
land, and  constantly  attended  the  ordinances  dispensed  by  the  clergy  thereof,  and  are  distinguished 
even  amongst  our  loyal  neighbours  for  our  attachment  to  the  present  blessed  establishment  in  Church 
and  State. 

**  In  the  end  of  May  1746,  Benjamin  Moodie  of  Melsetter,  lieutenant  in  Colonel  Thomas  Murray's 
regiment,  a  native  of  Orkney,  and  either  a  near  relation  or  intimate  acquaintance  of  every  one  of  us^ 
was  sent  to  Orkney  with  a  command  of  a  party  of  marines.  What  instructions  he  had  from  his  R.H. 
the  D.  of  Cumberland,  we  know  not ;  but  after  he  had  been  some  time  there.  Captain  Thomas  Smith, 
commodore  of  all  his  Majesty's  ships  on  the  northern  coast,  happening  t<>  stop  at  Stromness,  an 
excellent  harbour  in  that  country,  Mr  Ross  and  his  partizans  had  frequent  conference  with  him  on  the 
subject  of  the  treason  charged  against  us,  founded  on  the  foregoing  letter,  which  was  painted  in  the 
most  odious  colours.  Thus  was  the  commodore  plved  during  liis  stay  at  Stromness,  irom  which  he 
ordered  a  tender  to  wait  on  Mr  Moodie  to  the  North  Isles,  where  we  had  our  residence.  Mr  Moodie 
and  his  friends  gave  out  that  they  acted  by  Mr  Smith's  orders,  which  is  not  presumable,  considering 
his  excellent  character,  unless  he  has  been  grossly  imposed  upon.  Mr  Ross  issues  a  warrant,  June  14, 
to  the  bailies  of  Westray,  Rousay,  Sanday,  and  Nortn  Ronaldshay,  commanding  them  to  intimate  to 
all  the  heads  of  families  in  these  islands,  convened  for  that  purpose,  a  summons  by  Mr  Moodie 
requiring  us  to  surrender  ourselves  prisoners  to  him  by  the  20th  of  that  month  under  the  pain  of  being 
esteemed  and  treated  as  rebels,  and  bavins  military  execution  done  against  our  persons  and  estates. 

**  Whereupon  Mr  Moodie  repairs  to  Westray,  and  having  delivered  his  summons  to  the  minister, 
in  the  absence  of  the  bailie,  to  be  published  b^  him,  went  and  searched  the  houses  of  Cleat  and 
Trenaby,  where  we,  Archibald  Stewart  and  William  Balfour,  reside  ;  and  having  taken  two  or  three 
fowling-pieces  and  a  cutlass,  which  were  all  the  arms  he  found,  he  set  out  with  his  marines  for  North 
Bonalasay. 

"  In  his  way  thither  (June  15),  he  happened  to  see  a  boat  at  some  small  distance,  upon  which  he 
ffave  orders  to  fire,  and  the  bullets  narrowly  missed  the  men.  They  rowed  up  to  him.  Mr  Traill  of 
Westove,  to  whom  the  boat  belonged,  with  his  men,  were  made  prisoners,  carried  to  North  Ronaldsay, 
and  kept  under  guard  for  the  greatest  part  of  the  day,  and  then  robbed  Mr  Traill  of  what  papers  and 
letters  he  had  in  his  pockets,  which  he  has  never  returned  ;  and  after  intimating  his  summons,  and 
the  Sheriff's  order  relating  to  it,  he  repaired  to  Sanday. 

'*  He  went  to  the  house  of  Elsiiess,  in  that  island,  and  without  waiting  for  the  keys,  which  were 
offered  to  be  brought  to  him,  broke  open  every  door  in  the  house ;  and  he,  with  his  marines,  having 
rummaged  it  all  over,  and  carried  away  what  they  had  a  mind  on,  left  it  open  and  exposed  to  every 
body,  the  servants  having  deserted  it  for  fear ;  and  all  this  happened  before  the  said  summons  was 
published  in  the  island. 

*'  Our  creditors,  seeing  the  hazard  they  would  run  if  our  estates  were  wasted,  in  conjunction  with 
Thomas  Balfour,  son  to  Elizabeth  Traill,  relict  of  John  Balfour  of  Trenaby,  in  behalf  of  his  mother, 
gave  in  a  remonstrance  to  Mr  Moodie,  setting  forth  the  injustice  of  wasting  a  widow's  life-rent  for  a 
crime  alleged  against  her  son,  and  also  how  much  it  would  prejudice  a  great  many  innocent  persons, 
creditors  of  these  gentlemen,  if  the  estates  whereupon  they  had  their  securities  should  be  thus 
destroyed  ;  and  the  creditors  offered  proper  documents  of  their  claims,  and  Thomas  Balfour  produced 
his  mother's  infeftment  upon  the  house  and  lands  of  Trenaby. 

**  Margaret  Ballantyne,  Lady  Westness,  mother  to  me,  the  said  John  Traill,  and  liferentrix  of  my 
house  and  lands  of  Westness,  implored  Mr  Moodie's  mercy,  who  gave  her  full  assurance  that  every- 
thing pertaining  to  her  should  be  in  absolute  safety,  and  promised  an  answer  to  the  remonstrance  m 
'two  days,  from  whence  they  inferred  protection,  but  were  soon  undeceived  ;  for,  on  the  24th  June,  he 
went  with  his  marines  and  the  tender  down  to  the  house  of  Westness,  and  having  got  William  Traill, 
tenant  in  Eagleshay,  who  taking  upon  him  to  act  as  a  magistrate,  convened  the  inhabitants,  and  from 
them  Mr  Moodie  and  he  pickt  four  of  the  ablest  young  men  in  the  Lady  Westness'  life-rent  lands,  and 
then  the  captain  gave  orders  to  the  marines  to  plunder  and  burn  the  house,  which  they  did  with  all 
the  rigour  imaginable,  not  so  much  as  sparing  the  outhouses  and  bams,  so  that  the  poor  lady  was 
necessitated  to  shelter  herself  and  her  family  in  a  horse  stable.  William  Traill  assisted  the  marines 
and  shared  their  proportion  of  the  plunder  ;  the  remainder,  with  the  four  captives,  was  shipt  aboard 
the  tender. 

*'  Sailing  from  thence,  they  touched  at  the  island  of  Eday,  a  part  of  the  estate  of  Mr  Fea  of 
Clesteran,  and  being  assisted  by  the  said  William  Traill,  from  whence  they  carried  off  a  great  many 
young  men  and  cattle,  and  from  that  steered  their  course  for  Westray,  and  produced  to  the  bailie  the 
sheriff's  warrant  for  convening  the  inhabitants.  Mr  Moodie,  with  his  marines,  went  to  the  house  of 
Trenaby,  which  he  caused  to  be  plundered  and  burnt ;  and  before  it  was  so,  Thomas  Balfour  again 
repeated  the  above  remonstrance,  and  at  the  same  tim^  the  lady  herself,  on  doing  so,  was  orderea  by 
the  captain  to  be  driven  away  by  his  marines.  They  broke  opei)  ftlsp  a  warehouse  belonging  to  Thomas 
Balfour  and  carried  off  his  goods  of  several  kinds,  such  as  salt,  (Jry-ioods,  tobacco,  etc. 


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LONG  GOTTBR  TO  STRYND.  219^ 

"  Their  next  inarch  Was  to  Cleat,  a  hoi^se  belonging  to  me,  the  said  Archibald  Stewart,  which  was  . 
also  plundered  and  burnt,  and  particularly  a  cabinet  with  paper,  which  the  captain  caused  strike  open, 
took  out  such  as  he  had  a  mind  for,  and  carried  away  witn  him ;  the  rest  were  consumed  by  the 
flames.  One  circumstance  is  remarkable,  namely,  that  when  the  house  was  on  fire,  a  gentleman 
occasionally  present,  and  commiserating  the  lady's  misfortune,  intreated  the  captain  that,  out  of  pity 
to  her  as  his  near  kinswoman,  and  as  a  mother  of  7  or  8  young  children,  would  spare  an  outhouse  that 
stood  hard  by,  telling  him  that  if  it  were  burnt  she  and  her  numerous  family  would  be  entirely 
destitute  of  any  habitation  ;  to"  which  he  answered,  for  that  very  reason,  by  God,  it  must  be  burned 
too  !  and  which  was  done  accordingly. 

'  *  The  captain  convened  the  mhabitants  on  the  estates  belonging  to  me,  the  said  Archibald 
Stewart,  denouncing  fire  and  sword  against  all  who  should  be  absent ;  when  convened,  he  caused  the  - 
bailie  ask  at  a  few  of  them  some  questions  touching  our  behaviour  since  the  beginning  of  the  rebellion, 
particularly  whether  we  had  attempted  to  raise  any  men  for  the  Pretender's  service,  to  which  they 
answered  in  the  negative,  declaring  that  some  of  us  in  their  hearing  had  made  open  profession  of  our 
allegiance  and  attachment  to  the  present  government,  promising  them  our  countenance,  and  which  we 

Sive  them  accordingly.  The  baiue  moved  that  these  questions  and  answers  should  be  put  in  writing, 
ut  as  these  truths  did  nut  serve  the  captain's  purpose,  he  would  not  allow  it  to  be  done  ;  and  as  a . 
mark  of  his  displeasure  at  such  answers,  caused  seize  every  young  man  on  the  grounds  belonging  to  us, 
Archibald  Stewart  and  William  Balfour ;  some  (of  these)  during  the  confusion  found  means  to 
escape  ;  eight  were  committed  prisoners  to  the  tender,  which  occasioned  their  friends  to  make  a  pro- 
digious outcry,  who  insisted  that  if  these  men  were  to  be  examined,  they  should  be  so  instantly,- 
and  forthwith  discharged  ;  to  which  they  were  answered  that  they  were  to  be  carried  to  Kirkwall 
to  be  examined  before  the  Sheriff,  and  when  that  was  done,  they  should  be  then  at  liberty. 

'  *  The  plunder  and  prisoners  beinff  shipt,  the  captain  saileci  for  North  Ronaldsay,  a  small  island, 
the  property  of  me,  the  said  John  Traul  of  Westness,  and  by  the  assistance  of  one  Strong,  my  overseer 
there,  but  who  entirely  depended  more  on  Ross  than  me,  and  had  been  made  to  hope  for  a  share  of 
my  estate  for  betraying  me  and  his  neighbours,  convocated  all  the  inhabitants,  threatening  fire  and 
sword  against  all  those  who  should  be  absent,  and  when  convened,  every  young  man  on  the  island  was 
seized  and  sent  prisoner  to  the  tender. 

'*  From  this  island  he  sails  aeain  to  Sauday.  The  bailie  told  him  that  he  could  not  convene  the 
people,  for  they  had  taken  the  alarm  and  fled  either  to  the  rocks  or  to  the  sea  in  small  boats,  but  if 
he  inclined  to  examine  any  particular  person,  he  should  endeavour  to  bring  him  to  him.  The  captain 
condescended  on  a  tenant  of  -  me,  the  said  John  Traill,  who  was  accordingl}?^  brought,  and  being 
interrogate  concerning  his  master's  conduct  during  the  rebellion,  and  having  received  the  same  answer 

Sut  to  the  tenants  formerly  mentioned,  he  was  thereupon  in  great  rage,  and  not  only  refused  to  put 
own  his  answers  in  writing,  but  immediately  plimdered  and  burnt  my  house  of  Elsness  without 
allowing  my  friends  to  carry  away  my  papers  or  other  valuable  effects  therein.  The  captain  having 
here  exposed  part  of  the  plunder  to  sale,  he  shipt  the  rest  and  sailed  for  the  island  of  Stronsay,  but 
the  people  there  having  taken  alarm,  he  went  to  Kirkwall  with  his  plunder  and  prisoners. 

*'  On  the  30th  June,  the  plunder  of  the  burnt  houses  Wivs  sold  by  public  roup  in  Kirkwall ;  and 
seven  or  eight  of  Mr  Moodie's  tenants,  whom  he  had  brought  from  the  farthest  end  of  the  country  to 
assist  at  the  devastation,  drew  their  shares  of  the  spoil. 

**  In  the  year  1746,  Mrs  Balfour,  elder  of  Trenaby,  thinking  she,  a  poor  oppressed  widow,  and 
against  whom  no  crime  was  ever  alleged,  had  a  very  good  title  to  the  protection  of  the  magistrate, 
joined  by  several  of  her  tenants,  presented  a  petition  and  remonstrance  to  Mr  Ross,  setting  forth  the 
violence  already  committed  against  them  ana  what  they  had  still  to  fear ;  that  their  servants  and 
cottars  had  been  forced  away,  and  were  still  detained  prisoners  ;  their  cattle  driven  to  barren  moun- 
tains, and  their  goods  hid  and  buried  in  caves  and  pits,  to  their  vast  loss  and  prejudice,  and  neither 
they  nor  their  families  in  an  hour's  security  from  these  lawless  outrages,  and  therefore  implorinc  the 
protection  of  the  sheriff,  and  that  he  would  interpose  his  authority  for  their  security.  But  Mr  Ross 
refused  to  give  any  answer  to  them.  However,  a  few  days  after,  Mr  Moodie  writes  letters  to  the 
ministers  oFthese  islands  desiring  them  to  assure  their  parishioners  that,  as  he  was  fully  satisfied  of  the 
innocence  of  the  common  people,  every  individual  of  them  was  in  absolute  safety,  and  had 
nothing  to  fear  from  him  either  to  their  persons  or  goods ;  and  yet,  notwithstanding  all  this, 
in  a  few  weeks  after,  at  the  very  beffinnins  of  harvest,  he  sends  out  a  small  party  and  seized  one 
William  Rendall,  a  cottar  or  tenant  of  Burgh,  and  one  Thomas  Rendall,  a  tenant  or  cottar  of  Thomas 
Traill  of  Tirlet.  The  last  of  these  two  found  means  to  escape,  but  the  other  was  carried  prisoner  to 
Kirkwall,  where  he  was  kept  in  gaol  seven  or  eight  weeks.  During  his  imprisonment,  Mr  Moodie 
plied  him  close,  both  by  the  hope  of  reward  and  the  fear  of  punishment,  to  engage  him  to  accuse  his 


roaster.  Burgh,  or  any  other  of  us,  of  having  attempted  to  inlist  him  or  any  of  his  neighbours  for  the 
rebel  service  ;  but  all  proving  to  no  purpose,  and  the  fellow  being  unfit  for  military  service  by  some 
infirmity  in  his  legs,  he  was  at  last  dismissed.  And  again,  in  the  month  of  September,  in  the  throng 
of  the  harvest,  Mr  Moodie  came  with  his  whole  command  to  the  isle  of  Westray,  upon  which  the 
inhabitants,  almost  to  a  man,  deserted  their  houses,  left  their  cattle  and  corns  to  perish  by  excessive' 


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220  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKKETS. 

winds  and  rains,  and  fled  to  the  rocks  and  caves  for  sanctuary,  and  some  even  hazarded  their  lives  in 
small  boats  on  the  sea  in  most  tempestuous  weather.  Some  of  them  that  fell  in  his  way,  or  had 
trusted  in  his  promise,  he  seized,  and  particularly  two  servants  of  Mrs  Balfour,  the  elder,  who  wore 
then  employed  in  taking  in  her  corns  ;  one  of  them  was  detained  under  a  guard  for  two  days,  the 
other  was  carried  to  Kii^wall  and  kept  several  weeks,  till  the  harvest  was  entirely  over  ;  and  during 
all  the  harvest  and  winter  he  was  sending  out  every  now  and  then  parlies  into  different  quarters  en 
the  country,  and  seizing  such  persons  as  he  had  a  mind,  some  of  whom  shared  the  fate  of  those  already 
mentioned  ;  others,  more  fortunate,  were  rescued  by  the  interposition  of  their  piirish  toinisters.  Neither 
were  the  people  all  this  time  at  liberty  to  travel  from  place  to  place  or  to  come  to  Kirkwall  to  sell 
their  commoaities  or  to  buy  their  necessaries  as  usual,  least  their  goods  should  be  plundered  and  their 
boats  seized,  as  happened  to  one  from  the  island  of  North  Ronaldsav,  which  being  employed  to  carry 
in  some  coods  belonging  to  the  merchants  in  Kirkwall,  was  seized  by  Mr  Moodie's  order  and  put  to 
public  8c3e. 

"  One  would  readily  imagine  that  the  foresoiag  scenes  of  cruelty  and  oppression  would  have  been 
enoufi:h  to  glut  the  keenest  revenge ;  yet  Mr  Koss,  not  satisfied  with  his  malicious  representations, 
whereby  he  rendered  us  obnoxious,  to  the  resentment  of  the  government ;  by  prompting  and  egging 
up  this  same  captain,  a  silly  and  insignificant  boy,  to  be  the  instrument  of  wreaking  his  resentment, 
under  the  pretence,  forsooth,  of  doing  the  government  service,  which  appears  by  his  acknowledging 
that  he  had  art  and  part  in  these  crimes,  expressed  in  his  letters  to  the  bailies  of  the  several  islands,  by 
his  permitting  so  many  innocent  persons,  who  had  been  seized  in  consequence  of  his  order,  to  remain 
in  irksome  and  cruel  confinement,  just  under  his  eye,  notwithstanding  of  the  petitions  and  remon- 
strances of  their  friends  in  their  behalf ;  by  refusmg  protection  as  a  magistrate  to  people,  and  even 
to  widows  so  inhumanely  oppressed  ;  by  industriously  calumniating  us  on  every  occasion  as  not 
only  of  disaffected  principles,  and  who  had  kept  close  correspondence  with  the  rebels  during  the 
rebellion,  and  brought  them  into  our  country  by  our  solicitation,  but  men  of  such  malignant  disposi- 
tions that  our  native  country  would  never  enjoy  peace  while  we  were  allowed  to  live.  A  broad  nint 
to  this  purpose  he  gives  in  a  letter  to  the  Presbytery  of  North  Isles  when  talking  of  an  opposition 
some  of  us  with  our  neighbours  had  made  to  the  settlement  of  a  minister  against  the  inclinations  of 
the  people.  Another  instance  of  the  like  nature  is  that,  by  his  influence  upon  the  commissioners  of 
the  supply  of  Orkney,  the  greatest  part  whereof  are  his  creatures  and  at  his  devotion,  he  induced 
them  to  come  to  the  most  extravagant  and  illegal  resolution  perhaps  ever  heard  of,  whereby  they  find 
that  we  have  been  guilty  of  high  treason,  and  therefore  assess  our  lands  in  such  a  tax  as  they  think 
fit  to  impose,  from  which  they  exeem  all  the  rest  of  the  country,  and,  as  we  are  informed,  they  obsti- 
nately insist  in  forcing  the  payment  of  it.  And,  further,  as  he  had  meant  to  extirpate  us  root  and 
branch,  and  to  punish  our  families  for  our  alleged  crimes  by  depriving  them,  whilst  in  the  greatest 
affliction,  of  the  common  nece-ssaries  of  life,  he  inhibited  our  tenants  to  pay  their  farms,  or  to  give  any 
sort  of  acknowledgment  to  us,  and  sent  about  to  make  up  inventaries  of^our  moveables,  forbidding  our 
families  the  use  of  them  on  the  highest  pains  ;  which  prohibition  had  such  effect  with  some,  that  the 
victual  brought  in  for  the  use  of  our  families  was  taken  back  and  otherways  disposed  of ;  and  yet, 
after  all  this,  he  has  the  impudence  to  aver  that  he  was  doin^  us  all  the  good  offices  in  his  power,  and 
that  he  had  no  hand  in  the  outrage  committed  by  the  captain,  notwithstanding  that  he  procured  the 
magistrates  of  Kirkwall,  who  are  nis  known  dependants,  to  concur  with  him  in  granting  a  warrant  for 
apprehending  of  us  ;  for  we  no  sooner  returned  to  Kirkwall,  but  we  were  committed  to  prison,  from 
-vnience  they  thought  it  convenient  to  discharge  us  after  two  days'  confinement,  upon  being  threatened 
with  an  action  of  damages.  This  was  the  last,  but  a  very  important  part  of  his  malice.  Here  we 
must  observe  the  reasons  assigned  for  seizing  us,  as  they  are  expressed  in  the  warrant  for  that  purpose. 
They  say  that  it  appeared  to  them  that  Commodore  Smith  had  granted  a  warrant  to  Captain 
Christopher  Middleton  for  seizing  us,  as  being  accessory  to  the  late  rebellion,  and  for  burning  and 
destroying  our  houses,  etc.  We  wish  that  we  nad  been  possest  of  the  commodore's  orders,  which  Mr 
Koss  and  the  magistrates  say  that  they  had  seen  ;  for,  as  we  have  a  just  title  for  reparation  of  our 
damages,  we  wish  we  had  our  redress  against  the  commodore,  who  is  sufficiently  able  to  make  restitu- 
tion ;  for  as  to  the  other  offenders,  their  situations  are  such  that  we  have  no  reason  to  hope  that  we 
can  operate  our  i^b'ef  from  them." 

This  memorial  at  once  abolishes  the  myth  of  the  "  Gentleman's  Cave  ^  and  accounts  for 
its  origin. 

After  Sir  Lawrence  Dundas  bought  the  earldom  lands  from  Lord  Morton,  he  purchased 
the  Stewart  property  from  Lord  Galloway. 

Meanwhile  the  house  in  the  Strynd  went  to  wreck  ;  and,  in  January  1766,  Lord  Garliea, 
son  of  the  Earl  of  Galloway,  sold  the  ruinous  tenement  "  to  Robert  Symie,  Sclater,  for  and  in 
consideration  of  six  pounds  sterling." 


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LONG  0X7TTER  TO  STRTND.  221 

Symie  built  two  houses  on  the  site,  and  these  remained  in  possession  of  his  family  till  the 
middle  of  the  present  century.  In  1849,  Esther  and  Ann  Drever  were  certified  by  Sheriff 
Eobertson  as  granddaughters  and  nearest  heirs  of  Robert  Symie. 

The  site  of  the  abode  of  Stewart  of  Burray  is  now  the  property  of  Mr  Pollexf en,  and 
forms  part  of  his  garden. 

The  house  at  the  head  of  the  Strynd,  on  the  south  side,  was,  in  1677,  occupied  by  two 
owners.  Isobel  Porterfield,  widow  of  Thomas  Sinclair,  weaver,  had  the  larger  part,  valued 
at  £20 ;  and  John  Paplay  the  other  portion,  valued  at  £8. 

The  two  families  seem  to  have  been  more  near  than  neighbourly,  for,  4th  May  1674, 
Isobel  Porterfield  was  summoned  "  for  alledged  scolding,  the  last  Sabbath  day,  with  Jonet 
Paplay."* 

♦  8.  R. 


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CHAPTER  XIV. 

Broad  Street. 

(^"J^OUSE-BUILDING  within  the  precincts  of  the  Castle  began  at  the  south-east  corner .♦ 
When,  in  1591,  Earl  Patrick  Stewart  took  possession  of  the  Castle  of  Kirkwall,  he 
realised  the  necessity  of  having  in  his  employment  blacksmiths  superior  in  ability  to 
any  that  Orkney  could  supply.  Accordingly  he  brought  from  Falkirk,  or  rather  from  Abbots- 
haugh,  a  place  near  Falkirk,  now  effaced  from  the  map  of  Scotland,!  two  brothers,  William 
and  John  Kincaid.  The  two  blacksmiths  had  married  two  sisters,  Bess  and  Alison  Hoy. 
Though  conveyances  of  property  are  very  meagre  in  their  reference  to  family  life,  it  may 
almost  be  read  between  the  lines  that  Bess  Hoy  was  not  held  in  high  esteem  by  the  Earl,  and 
that  she  and  her  husband  did  not  always  pull  together. 

In  1594,  William  Kincaid  died,  and,  instead  of  making  provision  for  his  widow,  he  left 
the  bulk  of  his  property  to  his  sister  Alison,  wife  of  James  Archibald,  tailor  in  Falkirk.  Mrs 
Archibald,  thinking  that  property  in  Orkney  was  scarcely  worth  looking  after,  handed  over 
her  rights  to  her  brother  John.  John  had  lent  his  sister-in-law  £80,  and,  in  1695,  Earl 
Patrick  granted  him  decree  to  sell  William's  house,  now  occupied  by  the  unfortunate  Bess. 
8hould  the  price  obtained  exceed  the  debt,  John  was  to  hand  over  the  surplus  to  his  sister-in- 
law  and  take  possession,  the  widow  being  ordered  by  the  Earl  to  "  demit  as  she  will  answer 
to  us." 

This  is  the  first  approach  to  iiUe  in  this  part  of  the  town.  These  houses  were  built  on  the 
site  of  the  old  brew-house  of  the  Castle,  their  exact  position  being  at  the  corner  of  the  lane 
opposite  the  present  Post-Office.  The  smithy  stood  between  the  dwelling-houses  and  the 
Castle. 

The  house  put  up  for  sale  by  John  Kincaid  found  a  purchaser  in  Captain  Thomas 
Knightson. 

At  this  time  there  were  in  Kirkwall  not  a  few  skippers,  but  only  one  or  two  captains. 
The  distinction  marks  the  fact  that  the  captain  was  a  fighting  man,  and  the  skipper  a  trader, 
and  the  inference  may  be  drawn  that  Knightson  had  commanded  one  of  the  Earl's  ships  of 
war. 

Besides  purchasing  her  old  house,  the  gallant  captain  married  Bess  Hoy.  But  prudence, 
possibly  derived  from  experience  of  the  Earl's  temper,  prevented  Knightson  from  reinstating 
her  in  the  quarters  which  she  had  been  ordered  to  "demit."  So  immediately  after  the 
purchase,  it  is  recorded  that  "  Captaine  Thomas  Knychtsane,  for  myself,  and  takkand  ye 
burding  upon  me  for  Bessie  Hoy,  relict  of  umql.  William  Kincaid,  Smyt,"  grants  the  use  of 
Bessie's  house,  "besyde  ye  Castell,"  to  "John  Kincaid  and  Alisoun  Hoy,  his  spouse,  the 
langest  levand  of  thame." 

John  Kincaid's  house,  with  the  smithy  to  the  north  of  it,  passed  to  a  nephew,  David. 

*  Titles  favoured  by  Mr  W.  P.  Drever.  t  Ordnance  Survey  Gazetteer. 


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BROAD  STREET.  223 

In  1613,  Earl  Patrick  being  a  prisoner  in  Dumbarton  Castle,  and  not  likely  to  return  to 
Kirkwall,  Captain  Knightson  bought  these,  apparently  for  the  sake  of  the  site.  David 
Kincaid*s  son,  William,  sold  to  "  Captane  Thomas  Knychtsane  sa-mikll  ground  as  extends  to 
fourtie-thrie  futtis  in  lenth  f ra  the  north  to  the  south,  and  threttie  futtis  in  breid  f ra  the  est 
to  the  west,  boundit  on  the  south  syde  from  the  vennal  next  adjacent  to  the  land  and  tene- 
ment ptaining  to  William  Guid,  and  on  the  north  to  the  King's  Castell." 

In  1616,  Kincaid,  with  the  help  of  Harie  Aitken,  Notary  Public,  procured  a  proper  title 
for  Knightson,  the  length  being  now  "  nyne  scoir  futtis  "  and  the  breadth  fifty. 

The  Town  Council,  which  had  been  suppressed  by  the  Stewart  Earls,  was,  in  1612, 
reinstated  by  Bishop  Law,  and  it  assumed  the  right  of  superiority  over  the  Castle  grounds, 
the  Crown  authorities  being  either  ignorant  of  this  assumption  or  indifferent  to  such  a  trifling 
matter.  In  1617,  Knightson  was  elected  Provost  of  Kirkwall.  He  was  ousted  by  Harie 
Stewart,  1619,  but  was  reinstalled  the  following  year,  and  held  office  till  1621.  Knightson 
died  somewhere  about  1622  ;  the  will  of  his  widow,  Bessie  Hoy,  is  dated  1623.  The  Captain 
did  a  considerable  business  in  money-lending  both  in  Orkney  and  in  Edinburgh. 

In  1622,  Knightson's  house  and  smithy  became  the  property  of  Bobert  Monteith  of 
Egilshay. 

In  1635,  Monteith,  for  1000  merks,  sold  the  Castle  property  to  Andrew  Smythe,  brother 
of  Patrick  Smythe  of  Braco,  and  from  him  it  got  into  possession  of  Bishop  Graham.  The 
Bishop,  who,  though  keen  in  acquiring  money,  was  liberal  in  giving — at  all  events  to  his  own 
kith  and  kin— had  promised,  26th  June  1638,  his  second  son,  Mr  Patrick  Graham  of  Kothies- 
holm,  a  sum  of  3000  merks.  He  redeemed  that  promise,  11th  August  the  same  year,  by 
giving  him  "  the  two  quoys  beside  St.  Ola's  church,  which  had  belonged  to  St.  Katherine's 
prebendary,  als  weill  these  houses  buildit  by  umql.  Captaine  Thomas  Knychtsone  as  remanent 
houses  and  biggings  of  the  samen.'' 

North  from  Graham's  two  houses,  probably  where  Mr  Kirkness'  property  now  is,  was  a 
rough  bit  of  ground,  known  as  "  the  Castle  brae,  extending  to  twenty-four  foots  of  rule  in 
breadth  from  S.  to  N."  This  was  purchased  from  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  in  1688  by 
John  Graham  of  Grahamshall,  who  levelled  it,  thus  clearing  away  what  was  possibly  the  last 
remnant  of  the  earthworks  which  had  defended  the  old  fortress.  With  his  new  acquisition, 
Graham  got  a  charter  from  the  Town  Council  for  the  whole  property. 

In  1710,  Bailie  Donaldson,  for  £1000  Scots,  got  infeftment  from  Graemeshall,  and  came 
down  from  his  house  in  the  Laverock  to  this  the  more  fashionable  quarter.  Fashionable  as  it 
was,  while  the  Donaldsons  held  this  property,  Kincaid's  old  smithy  was  busy  as  ever,  and  the 
ring  of  the  hammer  on  the  anvil  enlivened  Broad  Street  down  to  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century. 

But  Broad  Street  was  not  altogether  dependent  on  the  smithy  for  bustle  and  stir, 
Grasmeshall  and  Tankerness  were  near  neighbours,  only  three  houses  separating  their  dwellings, 
but  their  meetings  might  have  been  more  friendly  had  they  resided  on  their  estates  in  Holm 
and  St.  Andrews. 

*'  Provist  and  Baillies  of  the  brugb  of  Kirkwall. 

'*  To  our  officers  of  the  samen,  conjunctlie  and  severallie,  speciallie  constitut,  ffreitinff.  fforsa- 
meikle  as  it  is  humbly  meant  and  sbowen  to  us  be  Robert  Morisone,  Pror.  Phiscall  of  the  l^wn  Court 
of  the  burgh  of  Kirkwall  ffor  her  Majestie's  Interest,  that  where  James  Grahame  of  Grahamshall  and 
Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  did  upon  the  nynteenth  instant,*  each  of  them  with  Kains  in  their 
hands,  with  many  sad  and  heavy  strooks  upon  the  head,  shoulders,  armes,  back,  and  other  places  of 
their  bodies,  Beat,  Bloode,  bruise,  and  abuse  the  one  of  them  the  other ;  and  a  little  thereafter  the 
said  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  did,  within  the  dwelling-house  of  John  Sanders,  Merchant  in 

*  August  1703,  Sheriff-Court  papers. 


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224  KIRKWALL  IN  rT&B  ORENETS. 

Kirkwall,  name  and  oall  the  said  Jamea  Grahame  of  Grahameehall  yillane,  knave,  and  raackall, 
whereby  they  and  ilk  ane  of  them  have  broken  her  Ma'tie's  peace,  and  have  committed  ane  mutoall 
blood  weet  battery  and  riot,  the  one  of  them  apon  the  other ;  and  also  the  sd.  Robert  Baikie  of 
Tftnkemess  is  guiltie  of  ane  open  and  manifest  ecandall  in  the  highest  degree  ;  and  therefore  they  and 
ilk  ane  of  them  should  be  seveirly  fyned  and  americat  in  peconial  mulcts  in  example  and  to  the 
tarrour  to  oommitt  and  doe  the  lyke  in  tyme  coming." 

They  were  fined  £10  Scots  for  breach  of  the  peace,  and  Tankerness  had  to  pay  £50  more 
forthe"scandaU.'' 

The  difference  in  the  amount  of  the  fines  is  very  suggestive.  The  Ma^strates  considered 
that  two  gentlemen  might  on  occasion  inflict  on  each  other  with  their  "  Eains  **  "  sad  and 
heavy  strooks"  under  slight  penalty,  but  when  one  called  another  villain  and  knave,  it 
required  that  he  should  be  dealt  with  more  severely.  The  libel  is  five  times  more  heinous 
than  the  assault,  character  being  so  much  more  valuable  than  personal  comfort. 

Whatever  may  have  been  thought  of  James  Graham's  temper,  his  hospitality  was 
undoubted  : — 

"  7th  July  1694. 
**  Bailie  Young,  Kirkwall. 

"  Sir, — The  Knight  went  to  Barray  er  Andrew  cam  out  bee  boat  from  Newark,  with  him  his 
Ladie  ;  and  soe  just  now  1  am  goins  to  see  him.  My  boat  I  have  sent  to  Scapa,  intreating,  if  able, 
that  you.  Bay  lie  Stewart,  and  your  brother  Andrew  maye  come  out  wt.  her.  You  will  alwavs  have 
ane  horse  to  rayd  ther.  Gorthie  goes  from  this  to  Grahamstoun,  haveing  alreidie  taken  leive  at 
Bnrray,  for  you  may  see  the  Lady  nalcrow.  Advertise  Baylie  Stewart  and  Andrew.  Oversanday's 
wife  also  comes  if  able.    Soe  in  hasto. — I  am,  yours,  (Signed)        Ja.  Grahams." 

While  the  Town  Council  assumed  the  right  to  dispose  of  the  Castle  brae,  the  property  to 
the  north  of  it  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  William  Young  of  Castleyards,  keeper  of  the 
King's  girnell.  This  tenement  was  "  ane  of  the  block  houses  of  the  castell,  commonlie  called 
the  south  block  house."  In  1669  this  house  was  repaired  by  Andrew  Young  and  let  to  his 
brother-in-law,  David  Moncrieff. 

In  the  lease  it  is  described  as  "  lyand  in  the  precincts  of  the  said  old  Castell,  and  boundit 
with  the  brea  callit  the  castell  brea,  and  the  houses  and  yairdis  pertaining  to  Mr  Patrick 
Graham  of  Grahamshall  also  lyand  within  the  precincts  of  the  said  castell  on  the  south,  the 
said  old  castell  on  the  north,  and  the  king's  commone  heigh  streitt  passand  betwixt  the  said 
old  castell  and  the  castell  yairdis  and  the  tenements  theirto  belonging,  pertaining  to  the  said 
William  Young,  on  the  east  pairtis  thereof." 

Moncrieflf  could  scarcely  have  occupied  the  house  repaired  for  him,  for  in  the  same  year 
the  south  block  house  was  rented  by  the  Town  Council  to  be  used  as  the  flesh  market. 

A  memorandum  in  the  handwriting  of  Provost  Arthur  Baikie  shows  that  the  Magistrates 
secured  the  consent  of  the  tenant  to  the  proprietor's  new  arrangement : — "  Memento  in  anno 
1676.  Daved  Forbes,  N.P.,  this  wtin  wrait  tak  subvd.  be  umqil  Wm.  Young  and  daved 
moncrieff',  anent  ye  fleshmarket  in  Kirkll.,  deat  ye  9  of  August  1669,  qlk  tak  hes  onlie  on 
witness  subscryving,  viz.,  Rob.  Asken." 

In  1697,  the  Magistrates  bought  from  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards  "  his  house  called  the 
flesh  mercat,  L3dng  adjacent  to  ye  croce  of  Kirkwall,  in  that  pairt  thereof  called  the  Midtoun, 
formerly  acquired  by  ye  deceast  William  Young  of  Castleyairds  from  umql.  Alexr.  Douglas  of 
Spynie,  as  factor  and  Trustee  for  ane  noble  and  potent  Earle,  umql.  William,  Earle  of 
Mortoun." 

The  necessity  for  a  flesh  market  is  shown  : — 

**At  Kirkwull,  the  twentie-eight  day  of  April,  sixteen  hundred  and  sixty -nyne  years.  The 
Quhilk  day,  in  pnce.  of  the  Provost,  Bailies,  and  Gounsall  of  the  brough  of  Kirkwall,  they,  after 


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BROAD  STREET.  225 

serious  and  mature  oonsideration,  understanding  the  great  abuse  and  prejudice  comitted  by  fleshars^ 
inhabitants  within  this  brough,  and  in  particular  in  the  killing  and  selling  of  yr.  beives,  sheep,  swyne^ 
and  uyr.  fleshes  of  that  nature,  and  finding  by  the  ancient  custome  and  practize  of  this  brough,  ilk 
beife,  cow  or  ox,  ought  and  should  be  buikit  in  yr.  cullers  marks  and  fra  quhom  they  were  bought, 
and  the  customes  and  dewties  payit  yrfor,  conforme  to  the  use  and  wount,  beeing  twa  shillings  Scotta 
for  each  cow,  ox,  or  bull ;  each  swvne  and  sheep,  sex  penyis  ;  each  stott  or  young  quoyack,  twelve 
pennyis ;  and  for  booking  to  the  Clerk,  eight  penny  is.  And  seeiug  that  the  said  Fro  vest,  Bailyies, 
and  Counsall  have  farmed  and  sett  furth  the  said  pettie  customes  and  dews  above  wm.  to  Magnua 
Tail^eor,  tailyeor,  burgess  of  this  brugh,  with  full  and  speall.  power  to  him  to  uplift,  ask,  and  receave 
the  samein  from  all  persones  lyable  in  payment  yrof.  They  therefore  decern  and  ordaine  the  saida 
fleshars,  and  ilk  ane  of  them,  rexive.  for  ther  awin  pairts,  to  make  payment  and  satisfaction  to  the 
sd.  collector  of  qt.  they  shall  hereafter  be  found  lyable  in  under  the  paines  and  penalties  speit.  in  the 
said  act  made  thereanent,  and  sicklyke  that  no  kyne,  oxen,  bulls,  swyne,  stott,  qnoyack,  or  sheep  be 
privatlie  killed  be  any  of  thame,  but  in  the  open  mercat,  under  the  paine  of  foirfaulting  the  wnole 
carcas  to  ye  use  and  behoofe  of  the  poore,  and  ordaines  the  said  collector  to  have  the  extract  thereof 
for  his  warrand,  and  to  proceed  yrin  as  accords." 

After  doing  duty  as  flesh  market  for  more  than  half  a  century,  the  old  '*  Block  House  ** 
was  in  1775  purchased  from  the  Town  Council  by  John  Kiddoch,  Sheriflf-Substitute  of 
Orkney,  and  the  flesh  market  was  moved  back  to  the  sliore  of  the  Peerie  Sea. 

On  the  site  of  the  old  block  house  and  its  yard,  Mr  Riddoch  built  his  dwelling-house  and 
offices.  The  warehouse  of  Messrs  Peace  <k  Low  stands  on  the  site  of  "  the  said  John  Riddoch's 
kitchen  and  brew  house,  where  the  old  Flesh  Market  stood,  and  to  which  he  had  right  from 
the  Magistrates  and  Council  of  Kirkwall."  * 

The  last  bit  of  the  Castle  ground  on  Broad  Street  taken  up  for  building  purposes  was 
that  part  lying  north  of  the  ruin.  In  1706,  Robert  Morrison,  who  had  built  some  of  the 
houses  in  the  Strynd,  acquired  from  the  Magistrates  "  the  piece  of  waste  ground  lying  to  the 
north  of  the  old  ruinous  castle,  68  ft.  in  length  from  east  to  west,  and  28  ft.  in  breadth  from 
south  to  north,  reserving  that  the  said  Robert  leave  as  much  room  upon  the  north  side  as  & 
horse  and  kavet  or  horses  with  loads  can  pass  through,  consisting  of  seven  foots  in  breadth 
for  the  said  passage  betwixt  the  new  dyke  to  be  built  by  the  said  Robert  and  the  yard  dyke 
possest  by  Marion  Irving,  relict  of  umql.  Patrick  Mowat,  Merchant." 

Morrison  had  permission  also  "  to  intromit  with  and  make  use  of  the  stones  of  the  old 
dyke  at  the  east  of  the  piece  of  waste  ground."  As  the  eastern  boundary  was  the  Queen's 
High  Street  and  the  western  the  Oyee  and  sands,  it  is  here  shown  that  in  1706  the  distance 
from  this  part  of  Broad  Street  to  the  Peerie  Sea  was  sixty-eight  feet. 

The  kavet  mentioned  above  evidently  means  panniers,  and  the  word  itself  is  allied  to  our 
word  cubbie — a  caisie  with  a  close  bottom  which  could  carry  grain.  Cubbie  Lane,  then,  is  not 
inappropriate  as  the  name  of  the  western  continuation  of  the  Strynd. 

Morrison,  doubtless,  meant  to  build  here,  but,  having  fallen  into  pecuniary  difficulties,  he 
was  unable  to  carry  out  his  plans,  and  the  Magistrates  re-purchased  the  ground. 

From  the  Magistrates  it  was  bought  by  Robert  Grant,  who  lived  almost  opposite.  In 
1832,  it  belonged  to  Grant's  son-in-law,  William  Traill,  Esq.  of  Frotoft.  He  sold  it  to  John 
Dennison,  merchant,  who  built  on  it  the  house  which,  with  additions,  is  now  the  Castle  Hotels 
the  property  of  Mr  W.  H.  Statham. 

The  southern  portion  of  Broad  Street  belonged  to  the  Church,  and  was  occupied  by  the 
houses  of  the  dignified  clergy.  This,  and  indeed  all  the  town  south  of  the  Castle,  was 
ancieotly  known  as  the  Laverock,t  but  in  our  oldest  Valuation  Rolls  the  name  is  restricted  to 
that  part  of  the  town  south  from  the  Bishop's  Palace  and  its  pertinents. 

*  Sasine,  19th  April  1806. 

t  This  name  is  recoflrnised  in  the  Bargh  Charter,  **  All  and  haill  our  said  Burgh  and  City  of 
Kirkwall,  and  that  part  tnereof  called  Laverock." 

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226  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKKKYS. 

When,  in  1544,  Bishop  Reid  re-constitiited  his  Chapter,  he  appointed  Malcolm  Halcro, 
provost ;  John  Tyrie,  arch-dean  ;  Nicolas  Halcro,  chantor  or  precentor ;  Alexander  Scott, 
chancellor  ;  Stephen  Culross,  treasurer ;  Peter  Houston,  sub-dean  ;  Magnus  Strang,  sub- 
chantor  ;  and  all  these  had  houses  in  or  near  Broad  Street. 

The  mansion  and  garden  of  the  Provost  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  Town  Hall,  and  a 
full  half  of  the  property  south  of  it,  jiow  belonging  to  Mr  James.  Tait,  while  it  extended  west- 
ward to  the  Oyce. 

By  virtue  of  his  office,  Malcolm  Halcro  was  incumbent  of  South  Ronaldshay  and  Burray, 
and  had  the  teinds  of  these  islands.  Like  other  good  churchmen  of  his  day,  however,  he  used 
his  position  to  set  in  feu  to  his  kinsmen  portions  of  the  lands  from  which  his  revenues  were 
derived. 

There  was  a  charter  granted  by  Sir*  Hew  Halcro,  Canon  of  the  Cathedral  Church  of 
Orkney,  and  Mr  Malcolm  Halcro,  Provost  of  Orkney,  to  their  cousin,  Hew  Halcro,  "of  the 
lands  of  Holland,  alias  Halcro,  and  othens,  particular  lands  lying  in  South  Ronaldshay,  quhilk 
charter  is  dated  1545,  Jany.  20th."    This  charter  was  confirmed  by  Queen  Mary,  April  1548.  t 

Provost  Halcro  was  an  amiable  man  with  strong  human  affections,  and  though  he  should 
have  been  known  as  father  only  in  a  spiritual  sense,  he  was  father  according  to  the  fiesh  of 
quite  a  large  family  of  boys,  all  sons  of  one  mother. 

Sheriff  Nicolson,  in  his  genealogy  of  the  Halcro  family,  says  : — "  Halcro  of  that  ilk  is  the 
most  ancient  family  in  Orkney.  Halcro,  Prince  of  Denmarke,  possessed  a  great  part  of  the 
Isles  of  Orkney  and  Zetland.  His  storehouse  for  receipt  of  rents  stood  at  Tingwall,  in  the 
parish  of  Rendall.  A  great  ]>art  of  the  lands  in  Orkney  and  Zetland  are  held  under  titles 
derived  from  this  family.  The  mansion  from  which  they  took  their  title  is  in  Halcro,  in 
South  Ronaldshay." 

The  only  difficulty  about  "  Halcro,  Prince  of  Denmark,"  is  to  fit  him  into  a  niche  in 
Orcadian  history.  He  does  not  appear  in  the  Saga,  and  historians  pass  him  by  without 
recognition.  Even  "  the  mansion  from  which  they  took  their  title  "  was  known  as  **  Holland  " 
till,  says  a  good  authority  I  on  such  matters,  a  member  of  the  family  changed  the  name  to 
^'Halcro,"  about  1540.  As  late  as  the  rentals  of  1595,  Holland  is  valued,  but  Halcro  is  not 
mentioned.§ 

Harry  Halcro  of  that  ilk  married  Lady  Barbara  Stewart,  youngest  daughter  of  Robert, 
Earl  of  Orkney,  and  got  from  the  Earl  wadset  of  lands  in  South  Ronaldshay  in  security  of  her 
tocher  good,  which  lands  were  redeemed  by  Earl  Patrick  Stewart  in  1598. 

"  Wydewall,  Benorth  the  Burn,  redeemed  by  my  Lord  frae  Hary  Halcro  in  anno  1598, 
which  was  wadset  by  my  umquhill  Lord  to  him  for  100  mks.  in  tocher  good  with  Barbara 
Stewart,  the  first  year's  payment  to  be  of  thQ  crop  1599."  || 

RonaldsvoQ,  Akerhouse,  and  Lyths  are  also  mentioned  as  having  been  similarly  redeemed  ; 
while,  in  the  same  island,  Lady  Barbara  is  stated  to  have  "  set "  Grymness  and  Gossagair  at  so 
much  rent  '*  because  the  land  was  dear."  The  Halcro  family  succeeded  in  getting  possession 
of  St.  Salvator's  Stouk  lands  in  Sanday. 

This  Henry  Halcro,  in  1580,  got  Enhallow  in  a  charter  from  Sir  Patrick  Ballenden. 

Except  that  he  founded  a  family,  which  for  a  considerable  time  took  an  active  part  in  the 
work  of  Burgh  and  County,  little  is  to  be  said  of  Malcolm  Halcro. 

Succeeding  Halcro  in  the  Provostrie  came  William  Mudy,  who  held  office  for  about  three 
years,  when,  in  1574,  hQ  was  followed  by  Alexander  Dick. 

In  the  days  when  ecclesiastical  preferment  was  a  matter  of  presentation,  the  previous 
character  of  the  presentee  was  sometime^  left  out  of  account ;  but  it  seems  somewhat  remark- 
*  An  ecclesiastical  title  equivalent  to  Rev.        f  H.  L.        t  H-  L.        §  Pet.  Rent.        |1  Pet.  Rentals. 


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BROAD  STREET.  227 

able  that  the  dignitary  next  in  rank  to  the  bishop  should  have  against  his  name  such  aa 
indictment  as  Provost  Dick  had.  On  the  9th  December  1561  he  found  bail  to  appear  on  15th 
April  following  "  for  convocatioune  and  gaddering  of  our  Souerane  Jadies  legis  to  the  nomer  of 
ii^xx.  (80)  persones  in  Sept.  last,  and  sercbit  and  socht  Henry  Sincler  of  Stove  and  Mr 
William  Mudy  for  their  slauchter."  ♦ 

Provost  Dick,  on  taking  office,  found  that  his  predecessor,  Malcolm  Halcro,  had  been  too 
liberal  in  his  gifts  of  church  property.  It  is  recorded  in  the  General  Register  of  Acts  and 
Decrees,  24th  July  1566,  that  Alexander  Dick<  Provost  of  Orkney,  gets  decree  against  Hew 
Halcro  of  that  ilk  to  remove  from  certain  lands  belonging  to  the  Provostry. 

South  from  the  Provostrie  stood  the  Thesaurerie,  the  residence  of  the  Treasurer.  At  th& 
reconstitution  of  the  Chapter,  Stephen  Gulross  was  appointed  to  this  office,  or  perhaps 
confirmed  in  it,  by  Bishop  Reid. 

The  Reformation  found  Francis  Both  well  in  charge  of  the  Bishopric  revenues.  Taking- 
advantage  of  the  liberty  which  this  religious  change  brought  him,  Both  well  married,  his 
kinsman,  the  Bishop,  taking  eace  that  he  should  have  the  wherewithal  to  support  a  family. 
For  this  purpose  St.  Lawrence  Stouk  lay  ready  to  hand,  and,  September  1592,  "  The 
Chaplainrie  and  Altarage  of  St.  Lawrence  was  set  in  Tack  to  Mr  Francis  Bothwell  for  hia 
lifetime  and  his  nearest  heir's  lifetime,  and,  after  his  decease,  19  years  to  his  heir.  Granted 
and  signed  by  Adam  Bothwell,  Chaplain  ;  Adam,  Bishop  of  Orkney  ;  Mr  Ninian  Halcro^ 
Provost ;  Thomas  Suenton,  Archdean ;  Adam  Mudy,  person  of  Walls  ;  Harry  Colville, 
Chantor  ;  Hierom  Tulloch,  Sub-Chantor.  To  pay  yearly  to  sd.  Chaplain  and  his  successors, 
£10  Usual  money  of  Scotland,  also  to  our  Sovereign  Lord  and  his  successors'  Chalmerlane  ane 
Last  of  Victual  yearly." 

In  this  nepotic  grant  it  will  be  noticed  that  the  second  beneficiary,  the  Chaplain,  was 
another  of  the  BothweB  clssa. 

Though  the  Reformation  left  Adam  Bothwell  in  possession  of  the  bishopric,  it  swept  away 
most  of  the  other  dignities,  and  the  old  Thesaurerie  ceased  to  be  an  official  residence. 

Immediately  south  of  the  Thesaurerie  were  'the  Sub-chantry  and  Archdeanery,  forming 
respectively  the  northern  and  southern  portions  of  the  square  now  known  as  Tankerness 
House. 

Under  Bishop  Reid's  foundation,  the  sub-chantor  was  Magnus  Strang.  His  duty  was^ 
along  with  the  precentor,  to  superintend  the  music  of  the  Cathedral  and  the  training  of  the 
choristers  in  the  Sang  School. 

Hieronimus  (Jerome)  Tulloch  was  the  last  sub-chantor.  Though  he  allowed  Gilbert 
Foulzie  to  secure  his  official  residence  in  Kirkwall,  he  reserved  for  himself  his  fair  share  of 
church  property.  "The  teindis  of  the  said  parochinnf  of  old  was  ane  pairt  of  the  sub- 
chanterie,  quhilk  dignitie  was  sett  in  take  be  umquhill  Master  Jerome  Tulloch  to  his  wyfe, 
Alisonne  Lindsay  ;  quhilk  take  was  disponit  be  hir,  be  adwyse  of  her  husband,  Alexander 
Muire,  to  the  lait  Earle  of  Orknay,  who  dyit  in  possession  of  the  saidis  teyndis,  his  take  being 
expyred,  and  now  the  saids  teyndis  are  payit  to  his  Majestic."  I 

The  Archdean  had  very  important  duties  to  perform.  He  was  the  Bishop's  Vicar,  and  aa 
such  he  visited  the  diocese  and  examined  candidates  for  orders. 

The  first  official  occupant  of  the  Archdeanery  was  John  Tyrie,  and  his  successor,  Gilbert 
Foulzie,  was  the  last  Romish  Archdean  under  Adam  Bothwell,  the  last  Romish  Bishop. 
Foulzie  was  also  the  first  Protestant  Priest  of  Kirkwall  under  the  same  Bothwell,  the  first 
Protestant  Bishop. 

To  Gilbert  Foulzie  the  Reformation,  from  a  worldly  point  of  view,  came  as  a  boon.    H& 
*  Fasti.  t  Bumess.  t  Pet.  Rent.,  90. 


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228 


KIRKWALL  IK  THE  ORKNEYS. 


not  only  secured  heritable  possession  of  the  Archdeanery,  but  he  was  clever  enough  to  secure 
the  Sub-chantry  also,  and  these  he  joined  by  additional  buildings,  making  his  mansion  the 
square  which  we  now  see.  Nor  did  he  neglect  his  opportunity  of  seizing  church  lands. 
Bishop  Graham  reports  :— "  Patrick  Smith  hes  a  tak  for  some  teynds  of  the  Prebendarie  of  St. 
John,  qlk  I  coft  ip  to  the  Bishoprick  at  a  deir  rate  fra  the  heirs  of  Mr  Gilbert  Foulzie." 

Over  the  gateway  of  his  enlarged  mansion  he  plac6d  the  arms  and  initials  of  himself  and 
his  wife,  M.  G.  F.  and  E.  K.,  representing  Master  Gilbert  Foulzie  and  probably  E.  Kinnaird, 
for  the*arms  are  those  of  Kinnaird  of  Inchture. 


Gateway  of  Tankemess  House. 

Between  the  shields  is  the  following  peculiar  inscription  :— **  Patrie  Et  Posteris,  Nisi 
Dominus  Custodi  Erit  Frustra  Semen  Nostrum.    Serv.  Et  Ipsi.    Anflo  Salutis,  1574."* 

In  1576,  Foulzie  was  appointed  one  of  two  Commissioners  to  plant  churches  where 
required  in  Orkney  and  Zetland.    His  death  is  approximately  given  as  prior  to  1595.t 

South  of  the  Archdeanery,  with  a  garden  between  it  and  the  corner  of  Broad  Street,  was 

*  Rev.  Father  Macdonald  suggests  that  *'  Patri  et  posteris "  m&Y  be  a  dedication  to  Foulzie's 
Father  in  Gkni — ^Bishop  Both  well — and  his  successors.  *^Aiino  salutis,  1574,"  doubtless  marks  the 
completion  of  the  building.  The  body  of  the  inscription  is  taken  from  Psalms  cxxvi.  2,  and  xxL  31  of 
the  Vulcate.  The  translation  as  dven  by  the  Marc^uis  of  Bute  to  J.  W.  Gursiter,  Esq.^  is—'*  Unless 
the  Lord  keep  [them],  in  vain  shall  our  seed  serve  him." 

t  Fasti. 


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BROAD  STREET. 


229 


the  residence  of  the  Chancellor.  Bishop  Beid's  Chancellor  was  Alexander  Scott.  The 
Reformation  found  James  Annand  holding  the  office.  He  was,  by  the  General  Assembly  in 
1576,  appointed  Commissioner  of  the  Church,  to  act  along  with  his  neighbour,  Gilbert  Foulzie, 
in  planting  churches  where  they  were  required.    He  died  prior  to  11th  Dec.  1586.  * 


1^  .^y<€L  ,-i!!i^i£/'Ji.L!/'-XJjr5-y-4j  | 


\~ 


•siet^ 


^a^^g^^ 


Inscription  on  Gateway,  Tankemess  House. 

Alexander  Dick,  the  last  Provost  of  the  Cathedral,  had  sold  the  Provostrie,  7th  May  1571, 
to  William  Gude  and  Margaret  Camming,  his  wife  ;  but  it  soon  again  came  into  the  possession 
of  the  Dick  family.  Here  Sir  William  Dick  of  Braid  laid  the  foundation  of  that  colossal 
fortune  which  he  spent  so  freely  in  the  service  of  his  country. 

From  1638,  when  Bishop  Graham  resigned  the  episcopate,  Dick  farmed  the  bishopric 
lands  till  1646,  in  which  year  he  received  the  honour  of  knighthood.  In  the  first  year  of  his 
tack  he  was  elected  Lord  Provost  of  Edinburgh.  In  the  Court  books  of  Kirkwall  we  have 
frequent  notices  of  his  putting  his  coin  out  to  usury.  While  Provost  of  Edinburgh  he 
established  an  active  trade  with  the  Baltic  and  Mediterranean,  and  made,  moreover,  a  profit- 
able business  by  the  negotiation  of  bills  of  exchange  with  Holland.  He  was  reputed  the 
wealthiest  man  of  his  time  in  Scotland,  and  was  generally  believed  by  his  contemporaries  to 
have  discovered  the  Philosopher's  Stone.  + 

He  had  ships  on  every  sea,  and  could  ride  on  his  own  lands  from  North  Berwick  to  near 
Linlithgow.  He  was  a  zealous  Covenanter,  and,  in  1641,  he  advanced  to  the  Scottish  Conven- 
tion of  Estates  100,000  merks  to  save  them  from  the  necessity  of  disbanding  their  army  ;  and 
when,  in  the  same  year,  the  Scottish  Parliament  levied  10,000  men  for  the  protection  of  their 
colony  in  Ulster,  they  could  not  have  embarked  the  troops  had  not  the  ships  been  victuaUed 
by  Sir  William  Dick.  Scott,  in  the  **  Heart  of  Midlothian,"  alludes  to  these  loans  when  he 
makes  Davie  Deans  say :— "  My  father  saw  them  toom  the  sacks  of  dollars  out  o'  Provost 
Dick's  window  intil  the  carts  that  carried  them  to  the  army  at  Dunse  Law  ;  and  if  ye  winna 
believe  his  testimony,  there  is  the  window  itself  still  standing  in  the  Luckenbooths,  five  doors 
aboon  the  Advocates'  Close." 

But  his  hatred  of  "  the  Sectaries"  was  greater  than  his  opposition  to  the  Stuarts,  and  in 
1642  he  advanced  £20,000  for  the  service  of  **  King  Charles."  For  this,  when  Cromwell  got 
hold  of  him,  he  was  fined  £65,000,  and  was  thrown  into  prison  at  Westminster,  where  he  died, 

*  Fasti.        t  Wilson'fl  Memorials  of  Edin.,  ii.  8. 


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230  KIRKWALL  IN  THE   ORKNBirg. 

in  1655,  of  something  suspiciously  like  starvation.  Down  to  the  last  of  the  Scottish  Parlia- 
ments we  find  his  descendants  petitioning  for  a  restitution  of  these  loans. 

Sir  William's  wife,  Lady  Anne  MacKenzie,  was  a  grand-daughter  of  the  first  Earl  of 
Cromarty.  As  Lady  Anne  Dick,  she  was  famous  in  Edinburgh  society  for  her  wit  and 
repartee.  In  her  youth  she  was  a  reckless  romp.  Dressing  herself  and  her  maid  in  male 
attire,  she  would  sally  forth  from  her  home  in  Riddell's  Close,  going  down  the  Lawnmarket 
and  High  Street  of  Old  Edinburgh  in  search  of  adventures,  and  she  sometimes  found  them. 
Some  of  her  poetical  pieces  have  been  printed,  and  furnish  curious  specimens  of  the  freedom 
of  expression  not  only  tolerated  and  perused  but  enjoyed,  in  those  days.* 

Their  son,  John,  occupied  the  ''  Provostrie "  for  some  time.  He  gave  loans  of  money  on 
his  father's  account,  often  advancing  very  considerable  sums.  He  also  acted  as  Sir  William's 
substitute  in  the  County  Court. 

Living  in  a  time  when  the  penal  laws  were  very  severe,  it  may  be  interesting  to  look  at 
Sheriff  Dick  in  Court,  t 

The  last  of  this  famjly  whp  took  any  part  in  Orcadian  public  business  was  Captain 
Andrew  Dick.  He  farmed  the  bishopric  rents  for  six  years,  beginning  1675.  Captain  Dick 
did  not  pull  well  with  the  Town  Council.  Thomas  Brown,  under  date  4th  Feb.  1681,  records 
that  "  David  Drummond,  Bailie,  and  David  Craigie,  Provost,  took  the  journey  from  Kirkwall 
to  Edinburgh  upon  ye  complent  given  in  bi  Captain  Dick  against  them  before  the  Privy 
Counsall,  their  day  of  compearance  being  24th  Feb.  1681."  Captain  Andrew  resigned  the 
office  of  Stewart  shortly  after  Provost  Craigie's  return.  This  resignation  and  a  lease  the  same 
year,  1681,  of  the  Crown  lands  granted  to  Murray  of  Haddon,  show  what  the  Privy  Council 
thought  of  the  "  complent."  He  left  Kirkwall  finally  in  1686.  "  At  Midday,  Captain  Andrew 
Dick  sailed  from  Kirkwall  Road  for  Zetland  with  his  wife  and  most  of  his  family  (Monday)."  X 
The  wife's  name  was  Francisca  Nairn. 

The  "  Dick  Loft "  in  the  Cathedral  was  in  the  middle  bay  of  the  south  choir  aisle.  Some 
little  time  before  1677  the  old  Provostrie  had  been  demolished.  On  the  northern  part  of  the 
site  a  beautiful  house  was  erected  by  Margaret  Grott,  widow  of  Patrick  Prince.  Till  1884  an 
oriel  window  in  this  house  was  a  striking  feature  in  the  line  of  Broad  Street.  The  boundaries 
of  Prince's  "  great  ludgeing  under  sclaitt  roofe  "  are  given  as  "  the  stryp  running  alongest  the 
old  brew-house  on  the  north  and  the  ludgeing  ptaining  to  Harie  Erbry,  Merd.,  on  the  south." 
The  name  Prince  is  said  to  be  Danish.  At  the  time  of  James  the  Third's  marriage,  Fermon 
Pirence  held  high  office  at  the  Court  of  Christian  of  Denmark.§ 

Patrick  Prince  and  his  brother  Magnus  were  successful  merchants  in  Kirkwall,  and  the 
former  held  much  property  in  the  burgh.  His  wife,  Margaret  Grott,  was  the  daughter  of 
Malcolm  Grott  of  Tankemess.  Grott  had  large  estates  in  Orkney.  "  26th  June  1590,  Robert 
Earl  of  Orkney,  Lord  of  Zetland,"  Ac,  "  for  soumes  of  money  payit  and  delyverit  to  us  at  the 
making  hereof  be  Malcolm  Grott  of  Tankemess  have  given,  grantit,  and  disponit,"  &c.,  "  the 
Land  of  Huipe,  with  the  Holmes,  in  the  Isle  of  Stronsay,  Elsness  and  Lewisgarth,  in  the  He 
of  Sanday." 

While  Margaret  Grott  remained  in  Kirkwall  she  was  a  person  of  much  consideration. 
She  carried  on  her  husband's  business  with  energy  and  success.  She  went  south,  however, 
having  married  John  Baird,  merchant,  Edinburgh.  On  the  tombstone  erected  by  her  to  the 
memory  of  her  first  husband  is  inscribed,  *^  Hier  rests  the  corps  of  Patrick  Prince,  merchatit  in 
Kirkwall,  sometyme  espoused  to  Margaret  Grott,  who  left  with  her  Edward,  Harie,  Magnus, 
Helen,  and  Catherine  Princes." 

♦  Wilson's  Memoriala  of  Edin.,  i.  169.         t  See  Appendix.        5:  T.  B.,  19th  April  1686.         §  H.  L. 


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BROAD  STREET.  231 

On  her  deathbed  the  mother  left  the  children  of  her  first  husband  to  the  care  of  her 
second,  and  Mr  Baird  loyally  took  upon  himself  the  charge. 

But  Edward  and  Catherine  had  been  in  the  custody  of  Helen  Fea,  sometime  relict  of 
Edward  Grott,  now  wife  of  Edward  Colville  of  Huip,  who  was  very  unwilling  to  part  with 
them.  Indeed,  rather  than  give  them  up,  she  offered  to  take  all  the  children,  and  to  "  seik 
nothing  jnrfor  except  so  much  as  the  said  Magnus  Prince,  their  Uncle,  should  think  meitt,  fitt, 
and  expedient."  ♦ 

Harie  Prince  married  a  natural  daughter  of  Patrick  Smythe  of  Braco,  and  their  son 
Magnus  became  Lord  Provost  of  Edinburgh. 

One  of  the  tenants  of  the  Princes'  house  in  Broad  Street  was  the  Lady  Jacobina  Hendrina 
Forbes.  She  wa^  a  daughter  of  Patrick  Forbes,  Bishop  of  Caithness,  who  in  his  earlier  days 
had  been  a  regimental  chaplain  in  the  army  of  Holland.  In  that  country  he  married  a 
daughter  of  Colonel  Erskine.  They  had  a  son,  who  was  Commissary  of  Caithness,  and  a 
daughter,  Jacobina  Hendrina,  who  married  Captain  William  Buchanan  of  Rusland,  2nd 
November  1672.  After  Buchanan's  death,  she  espoused  James  Fea  of  Whitehall,  but  in  her 
second  widowhood  she  reverted  to  her  first  title,  and  was  known  as  the  Lady  of  Rusland. 

In  1702,t  William  Fea  of  Millfield  bought  from  Magnus  Prince,  son  of  Patrick  Prince, 
"his  tenement  of  land,  with  yairds,  etc.,  being  the  north  pairt  of  the  Tenement  of  Land 
pertaining  of  old  to  the  Provostrie  of  Kirkwall,"  and  granted  it  in  liferent  to  Mary  Lyell,  his 
wife.  It  was  while  in  this  possession  that  Stewart  of  Burray  and  his  brother  Alexander 
sallied  forth  "out  of  the  said  Baillie  ffea  his  gate"  for  the  murder  of  Captain  Moodie  of 
Melsetter. 

Bailie  Fea  died  here,  31st  May  1741,  and  his' celebrated  kinsman,  James  Fea  of  Clestrain, 
"  sealed  up  the  house  till  the  nearest  of  kin  be  summoned." 

This  tenement  next  became  the  property  of  Andrew  Ross,  Lord  Morton's  chamberlain, 
anathematised  by  Tudor  for  selling  the  slates  of  the  Earl's  Palace  to  roof  the  old  Town  Hall. 

ftoss  got  his  commission,  29th  April  1740,  and  at  once  proceeded  to  act  upon  it  by 
appointing  deputies.  On  the  19th  of  July  he  made  Donald  Groat  of  Newhall  Bailie  of  Deer- 
ness  ;  1st  August,  John  Balfour  of  Trenabie,  Bailie  of  Westray  ;  and  next  day,  John  Halcro 
of  Crook,  Rendall ;  Patrick  Fea  of  Kirbister,  Stronsay ;  David  Nisbet,  Firth ;  James 
Sutherland  of  Windbreck,  South  Ronaldshay  ;  Patrick  Traill,  merchant,  and  Bailie  of  Kirk- 
wall, St.  Ola  ;  and  George  Traill,  yr.  of  Holland,  Papa  Westray. 

While  Ross  is  debited  with  sins  which  he  did  not  commit,  he  must  be  credited  with 
virtues  not  sufficiently  recognised.  In  his  day  he  was  the  most  advanced  agriculturist  in  the 
islands,  and  he  showed  proprietors  and  tenants  the  newest  methods. 

Using,  perhaps  abusing,  his  power  as  factor,  he  compelled  his  people  to  cultivate  flax, 
while  his  nephew,  William  Lindsay,  saw  to  the  dressing,  spinning,  and  weaving.  Thus  a  very 
flourishing  linen  trade  was  introduced  into  Orkney.  For  a  time  this  remained  a  very  valuable 
monopoly  in  the  hands  of  Ross  and  Lindsay,  who  soon  found  that  it  was  more  profitable  for 
them  to  export  the  yarn  than  to  weave  it  on  native  looms.  Barry  says  that  they  yearly  sent 
south  as  many  as  "twenty-five  thousand  spindles  of  excellent  linen  yam."  Birsay,  on 
account  of  its  fine  water  supply,  was  their  bleach-field. 

But  it  was  not  in  the  nature  of  the  Kirkwall  merchants  to  see  a  profitable  trade  like  this 
go  past  their  doors,  and  they  struck  in  for  a  share.  They  could  not,  however,  enforce  the 
cultivation  of  lint,  so  they  imported  the  raw  material.  "  There  are  imported  annually  forty- 
two  tons  of  flax  into  this  country,  which  at  an  average  may  amount  to  three  thousand  pounds 
Sterling  prime  cost."  J 

*  15th  April  1680.  f  Fea's  title  reglBtered  6th  Dec.  1707.  t  Barry. 


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232  KliiKWA^L   IN  TMfi.OIUCN^YS. 

This  gave  employment  to  a  great  number  of  flax-dressers.  The  hecklers  and  spinners, 
seeing  the  competition  among  the  employers,  made  use  of  it  to  get  their  wages  raised.  Even 
under  the  improved  conditions,  the  most  expert  girls  could  earn  only  sixpence  per  day  by  their 
spinning,  but  in  the  middle  of  last  century  sixpence  per  day  was  regarded  as  good  pay  for  a 
woman. 

Though  all  the  finest  yarn  went  south,  chiefly  to  Montrose,  a  considerable  quantity  of 
coarser  fibre  remained  to  give  work  to  native  weavers ;  and  in  1790,  thirty  thousand  yards 
passed  "  the  books  of  the  stamper."  But  when  the  industry  was  at  its  height,  it  suddenly 
collapsed,  the  French  war  rendering  the  importation  of  foreign  flax  impossible. 

Boss  farmed  the  bishopric  rents  from  1742  to  1776,  and  during  that  time  he  stands  pro- 
minently forward  as  the  most  capable  man  in  Kirkwall. 

The  penultimate  proprietor  of  this  house  was  Dr  Bremner,  one  of  Kirkwall's  many  dis- 
tinguished medical  men.  Its  last  use  was  as  a  temperance  hotel,  and  in  1884  it  was  cleared 
away  to  make  room  for  the  new  Town  Hall. 

This  imposing  structure,  in  the  Scottish  Baronial  style,  was  built  by  Messrs  Samuel 
Baikie  &  Sons  from  designs  furnished  by  Mr  T.  S.  Peace.  The  foundation  stone  was  laid 
with  Masonic  honours  by  the  Earl  of  Mar  and  Kellie,  20tli  August  1884  ;  and  it  was  opened 
for  public  purposes  in  1887  by  Samuel  Eeid,  Esq.  of  Braebuster,  Provost  of  Kirkwall. 

Within  this  building,  besides  Council  Chamber  and  committee  rooms,  there  is  a  large 
hall  for  public  meetings,  accommodation  for  the  Post-Office,  the  Town  Clerk's  office  and 
strong  room,  the  Fishery  Office,  that  of  the  Burgh  and  County  Surveyor,  and  the  Free 
Library.  For  this  last  boon,  Kirkwall  is  largely  indebted  to  the  munificence  of  Andrew 
Carnegie,  Esq.  of  Skibo,  a  Scottish- American  gentleman,  whose  generosity  in  the  establish- 
ment of  free  libraries  is  gratefully  recognised  throughout  Scotland. 

The  want  of  postal  communication  had  been  long  felt  before  a  service  was  extended  to 
Orkney.  Except  as  a  favour  done  by  sailors  or  travellers,  private  persons  had  no  means  of 
communicating  with  friends  in  the  south.  Public  documents  were  conveyed  by  a  special 
messenger  at  very  great  expense.  The  Pentland  Ferry,  the  rights  and  revenues  of  which  had 
been  originally  granted  to  the  Groats,  was  no  longer  a  monopoly,  and  boats  could  readily  be 
hired  on  either  side  of  the  Firth.  But  what  was  really  wanted  was  a  regular  subsidised 
packet  between  Caithness' and  Orkney. 

The  earliest  recorded  public  movement  towards  securing  a  postal  service  was  at  a  meeting 
of  the  Town  Council,  held  6th  December  1709.  '*  The  said  day  the  Magistrates  and  Councillors 
having  met,  and  considering  that  Mr  Robert  Douglas  has  now  gone  to  London  as  Commis- 
sioner for  this  Brugh  and  others,  doe  therefore  appoynt  a  Letter  To  be  instantly  writt  and 
subscryved  by  the  provost,  and  sent  the  first  occasion  to  the  said  Mr  Robert  Douglas,  putting 
him  in  mynd  to  act  in  that  station  as  farr  as  possible  for  the  weil  of  this  Brugh,  particularly 
hfi^t  he  endeavour  to  his  power  to  have  a  post  office  established  in  this  town  upon  the  publick 
charges  of  the  government." 

This  had  no  practical  result.  In  April  1711,  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs  memorialised 
the  Commissioners  of  Trade  in  favour  of  the  fishing  industry  : — "  It  will  much  facilitate  the 
fishing  trade  if  a  pacquet  boat  were  settled  between  John  of  Groat's  House,  on  the  Mainland 
n  Caithness,  and  Kirkwall,  or  some  other  convenient  place  in  Orkney."  But  Government 
was  difficult  to  move,  and  the  matter  went  to  sleep  for  thirty  years. 

In  1741,  the  following  petition  was  sent  from  Kirkwall  to  the  Member  for  the  Northern 
Burghs  :— 

"  Memoriall  for  CoUonell  Douglas  anent  Settling  a  Post  Office  at  Kirkwall. 

"  The  Inhabitants  of  Orkney  lye  under  great  Inoonveniencys  for  want  of  a  Regular  Conveyance 


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MUNICIPAL  BUILDINGS. 


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BROAD  STREET.  233 

of  Letters,  the  post  at  present  coming  no  further  north  as  Thurso  in  Caithness.  It  is  likewise  a  loss 
to  the  Commissrs.  of  his  Matte's  Revenue  in  the  Customs  k  Excise  that  they  have  no  way  of  corre- 
spondinff  with  their  officers  in  that  part  of  the  Country.  As  also  It  is  a  jgreat  Inconveniency  for  all 
trading  oy  sea,  as  there  is  a  great  resort  of  shiping  to  Orkney,  for  want  of  CDrrespondence  from  thence 
with  their  owners  or  merchts.  It  is  therefore  proposed,  as  a  thing  that  would  do  very  beneficiall  to 
the  Revenue  and  trading  part  of  the  nation  in  Grenerall,  k  this  Countiy  in  particular,  That  a  post  office 
he  settlerl  in  the  Town  of  Kirkwall^  which  is  a  Sea  port  and  the  Head  Burgh  of  the  County,  and 
where  the  officers  of  the  Revenue  reside.     For  settling  this  office.  The  following  Scheme  is  proposed : — 

Be  Land.     Be  Water. 
Miles.  Miles. 

From  Kirkwall  to  Holmsound  5  — 

From  Holm  to  Burray —  3 

The  Island  of  Burray 1  — 

Over  Watersound         —  1 

From  Thence  to  Burwick        5  — 

From  Burwick  to  Duncansbay  —  12 

From  Duncansbay  to  Thurso 12  — 

23  16 

"  By  the  following  Computation,  This  may  be  performed  for  £27  6s  6d  p.  annum  : — 

**  Estimate  foe  sftTTLiNO  a  post  bet.  forsd.  k  Thurso. 

It  is  proposed  that  there  shall  be  only  one  Runer  from  Kirkll.  to  Thurso  weekly,  who  is 

to  have  3/6  per  week,  inde  yearly £9    2    6 

To  the  ferry  fraughts  of  Holmsound  and  Watersound,  weekly,  1/2  ;  inde  yearly  ...        3    4    0* 

It  is  proposed  that  the  Keeper  of  the  Pentland  Firth,  on  the  Orkney  side,  shall 
transport  the  Runner  weekly,  as  the  weather  forces,  over  the  ferry  to  Caithness,  k 
shall  wait  there  till  his  return,  k  bring  him  back  again,  for  which  he  is  to  have  in 
full  yearly  15    0    0 

The  above  sum,  besides  for  the  postmaster's  trouble  yearly.  

£27    6    6 

'*  For  effecting  the  scheme,  it  is  proposed  that  the  Government  shall  give  the  above  sum  to  a 
proper  person  as  postmaster  for  a  short  time,  besides  a  proper  encouragement  to  him,  ft  he  to  be 
accomptable  to  the  Gk>vemment  for  the  poastage  of  all  the  letters,  and  it  is  hoped  that  in  a  short  time 
it  will  be  able  to  defray  the  whole  expence." 

Government  took  time  to  consider  the  matter,  and,  after  six  years,  a  commission,  signed 
30th  January  1747,  by  Alexander  Hamilton  of  Innerwick,  Esquire,  Postmaster-General  of 
Scotland,  was  sent  to  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  constituting  him  Deputy  Postmaster  in 
Orkney.  For  his  **  proper  encouragement,"  he  was  allowed  "  Three-fourth  parts  of  the  Inland 
postage  or  duty  on  all  letters  both  wayes  between  Edinburgh  and  Orkney,  and  that  in  full  of 
all  Sallaries  to  himself  and  substitutes  for  their  care  and  pains,  and  for  defraying  the  whole 
charge  and  Expence  of  Packet  Boats  and  Runners  between  Orkney  and  Thurso  in  Caithness.'^ 

The  frugal  Government  not  only  refused  to  accept  any  risk,  but  secured  a  margin  of 
profit,  leaving  the  loss,  which  was  inevitable,  to  be  borne  by  a  private  individual.  Moreover, 
from  that  private  individual,  Alexander  Hamilton,  Esq.,  Postmaster-General,  would  exact  his 
pound  of  flesh. 

It  could  readily  be  believed  that  a  weekly  mail  from  Orkney  at  that  time  and  at  the  rates 
then  charged  would  make  a  very  light  bag,  so  Mr  Young  seems  to  have  allowed  the  letters  to 
gather  a  while  before  he  despatched  them  :  hence  the  following : — 

"  General  Post  Office,  Edinburg,  26th  May  1759. 
"  Sir, — ^I  am  commanded  by  the  Postmaster-General  to  Signify  to  you  that  it  is  observed  you  do 
not  dispatch  the  Kirkwall  Bag  regularly  from  your  office,  insomuch  that  we  have  no  letters  here  from 
Orkney  but  once  a  fortnight,  and  often  it  is  three  weeks  before  any  arrive.  This  the  Merchants 
justly  Complain  of,  as  the  consequences  must  be  very  hurtfuL  There  can  be  no  stop  by  the  Ferrys  at 
this  season  especiaJly,  nor  any  want  of  opportunity  of  Conveyance  from  Thurso,  as  that  Runner  is 

*  Correctly,  £3  Os  8d. 

2H 


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234  ^  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

alwise  Dispatched  twice  a  week  ;  yoa*l  therefore  let  me  know  in  course  what  is  the  reason  of  these  stops 
that  a  prooer  remedy  may  be  provided.  Tho'  you  should  not  dispatch  a  bag  twice  a  week,  yet  once 
A  week  at  least  will  alwise  be  expected,  as  there  are  two  regular  dispatches  from  this  office. — I  am. 
Sir,  your  most  humble  Sorn.,  (Signed)        Wm.  Jackson. '' 

The  business  of  the  Post  Office  was  complicated  by  the  fact  that  in  its  early  days  his 
customers  required  the  Postmaster  to  give  them  credit.  Here  is  an  account  per  contra  between 
the  second  Postmaster  and  the  Kirk  Session  :— 

**  Mr  Andrew  Young  of  CastleyardB,  for  his  Brother's  funerals,  to  the  Session  of  Kirkll.,  Dr. 

To  Ground  Lair  in  ye  Kirk,  Best  Cloath,  etc.    ...         £1     I     li 

By  Cash  allowed  you  for  Postages  of  Letters  over  Pentland  Firth,  for  the  Presbutrie,  as 

p.  acct.  given  me  by  Mr  John  Yule,  which  he  collected 0    6    8 

14    5i 

"  Kirkwall,  4th  Feby.  1761. — Received  payment  of  the  above  Ballance  of  Fourteen  shillings  6 ve 
pence  and  one-third  of  a  penny  Sterling,  the  same  being  Discharged,  in  name  of  the  Session  of  Kirk- 
wall, by  (Signed)        Andbbw  Liddell,  K.  Treasurer." 

In  1762,  the  running  of  the  mails  ceased  to  be  a  matter  of  speculation,  and  Andrew 
Young's  commission  was  renewed  on  fresh  terms.  A  salary  of  £23  was  given  for  the  Ptmt- 
master's  service  ;  for  boats  and  runners,  twice  a  week,  to  and  from  Caithness,  £30  ;  for  the 
management  of  byeway  or  road  letters,  £2— amounting  in  all  to  £55  stg.  per  annum  in 
quarterly  payments.  When  we  see  the  arrival  of  a  cartload  of  bags  and  baskets,  forming  an 
ordinary  mail  from  the  south,  it  seems  an  old-world  story  to  look  back  to  the  days  of  a  post- 
runner  from  Kirkwall.  But  there  are  still  those  among  us  who  have  joined  the  letter  carrier 
at  Kirkwall  on  a  summer  afternoon,  tramped  to  Holm,  sailed  with  him  to  Hurray,  walked  over 
to  Watersound,  crossed  to  St.  Margaret's  Hope,  and  next  morning  proceeded  to  fiurwick, 
whence  the  ferry  boat  started.  Then  from  Huna,  on  the  Caithness  side,  the  passenger  could 
join  the  mail  coach. 

On  the  southern  part  of  the  Provostrie  was  the  house  of  George  Traill  of  Westness,  the 
first  Traill  holding  property  in  Orkney. 

The  late  Dr  Traill  of  Woodwick,  in  his  *'  Genealogy  of  the  Orkney  Trailis,"  makes 
C^rge  the  founder  of  the  Traill  family  in  Orkney.  The  Doctor  suggests  that  the  name  is  of 
Norman  origin,  and  that  it  is  perhaps  identical  with  that  of  Tyrell,  "  the  unfortunate  man  who 
was  unwittingly  the  cause  of  the  death  of  William  Kufus."  As  a  link  between  the  two,  he 
quotes  Fordun,  who,  referring  at  one  time  to  Bishop  Traill  of  St.  Andrews,  and  at  another  to 
the  unhappy  regicide,  names  each  of  them  Walterus  Treyl. 

JMshop  Traill,  an  alumnus  of  the  University  of  Paris,  was  perhaps  the  most  illustrious 
Scotsman  of  bis  day.  He  lived  in  a  troublous  time,  the  reign  of  Robert  III.  Buchanan  bears 
testimony  to  his  worth  as  a  churchman  : — "A  little  after  the  death  of  Archibald  Douglas, 
Annabella  the  Queen  anfi  Walter  Traill,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews,  died  in  rapid  succession, 
from  which  a  great  change  of  affairs  was  universally  presaged  ;  fur,  as  the  military  splendour 
of  the  country  was  supported  by  Douglas,  the  ecclesiastical  authority  and  some  shadow  of 
ancient  discipline  maintained  by  Traill,  so  the  Queen  preserved  un.stained  the  dignity  of  the 
Court."* 

As  the  Archbishop  was  a  Romish  prelate,  Dr  Traill  does  not  claim  to  be  descended  from 
him,  but  only  that  the  Orkney  Traills  are  of  the  same  stock—Traills  of  Blebo.  The  Doctor 
gives  the  crest  and  arms  of  the  Traills  of  Blebo,  and  says—''  Their  Orkney  descendants  have 
similar  arms  and  crest.''    In  Orkney,  however,  the  early  Traills  do  not  seem  to  have  used 

^  Vol.  ii.  71. 


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BROAD  STREET.  235 

these  arms.    For  decorative  purposes  they  preferred  monograms,  as  seen  on  Plate  III.  of  the 
work  quoted. 

The  Doctor  finds  that,  about  1567,  ^^  two  of  the  younger  sons  of  the  house  of  Blebo  went 
to  the  Orkneys.''  But  the  genealogist  does  not  follow  these  two.  He  thinks  he  has  historical 
evidence  that  Qeorge  Traill  came  to  Orkney  with  Earl  Robert  Stewart  about  1680,  but  the- 
only  authority  that  George  was  from  Blebo  is  Sheriff  Nicolson,  whom  Dr  Traill  had  already 
described  as  *'  quite  untrustworthy.'' 

If  George  came  with  Earl  Robert,  he  survived  to  be  a  retainer  of  the  Earl's  son,  as  he  is> 
styled  ^  Servitor  to  ane  noble  and  potent  Lord,  Patrick,  Earl  of  Orkney." 

The  first  of  the  family  to  appear  in  the  Rentals*  is  John  Trail,  tenant  of  Mustarquoy^ 
who  had,  along  with  this  farm,  ^  ane  quoy,  pertaining  Sanct  Katherinis,  the  haill  set  be  my 
Lord  for  1  barrel  butter,  4  poultry."  The  lord  who  "set"  this  farm  and  quoy  was  Earl 
Robert,  and  the  probability  is  that  John  came  north  in  the  Earl's  retinue,  and  was  the  father 
of  George,  who  held  a  place  in  the  household  of  Earl  Patrick. 

Fn>m  a  study  of  the  Commissary  and  Sheriff  Court  books,  the  conviction  grows  strong 
that  G^rge  Traill  was  Patrick  Stewart's  factor,  and  that  during  the  Earl's  long  imprisonment, 
in  remitting  the  rents,  the  factor  very  judiciously  retained' in  full  his  own  salary.  Indeed,  it 
was  the  plea  that  the  rents  were  not  forthcoming  as  they  ought  to  be,  that  furnished  the 
opportunity  for  Robert  Stewart's  rising  in  favour  of  his  father. 

Under  the  eye  of  his  impecunious  patron,  Gkorge  Traill  could  neither  have  made  money, 
nor  could  he  have  kept  any  considerable  sum  had  he  got  it ;  but  no  sooner  was  Earl  Patrick 
dead,  than  the  "*  servitor "  bought  one  of  the  best  houses  in  Kirk- 
wall and  the  estate  of  Westness  in  Rousay.  More  than  that,  he 
had  capital  to  spare,  which  he  freely  put  out  to  the  use  of  those 
who  chose  to  borrow  at  the  *'  annual  rent  of  ten  in  the  hundred.'' 
In  1616,  he  lent  £300  to  Malcolm  Grott  of  Tankemess. 

His  first  wife  was  Jean  Kennedy,  his  second  Isobel  Craigie, 
and  '*  it  is  an  undoubted  fact  that  George  Traill  died  and  left  her 
a  widow,  with  13  children,  in  the  year  1634."  t 

Isobel  Craigie  did  not  at  once  give  up  her  late  husband'a 

money  business.     In   1636,  she  advanced  100  merks  to  Patrick 

iSSuVh^w^''^''        Murray  of   Woodwick.     The   sons   also   took   it  up.    In   1632, 

"*'  Thomas   lent  Gilbert  Sinclair  400  merks.     Even   Robert,  who 

was  a  merchant  in  Edinburgh,  found  Orkney  securities  good,  for,  in  1647,  he  obliged  Patrick 

Bruntfield,  Kirkwall,  to  the  extent  of  £181. 

Undoubtedly,  this  money  business  laid  the  foundation  of  the  wealth  of  the  Orkney 
Traills,  a  family  which  has  furnished  more  good  men  to  the  conduct  of  municipal  work  in 
Kirkwall  than  any  other  in  the  county,  native  or  immigrant. 

George  Traill's  widow,  who  survived  till  1661,  married  Hugh  Halcro  of  that  ilk,  and,  on 
his  death,  Edward  Sinclair  of  Brugh.  George's  son,  Thomas,  was  the  first  Traill  of  Holland, 
which  he  bought  before  30th  April  1650,  as  at  Kirkwall  on  that  date,  under  the  designation 
"  of  Holland,"  Thomas  witnesses  a  deed. 

The  lairds  of  Holland,  from  their  first  settling  in  Papa  Westray,  have  been  alternately 
Thomas  and  George.  Of  the  former  name  there  have  been  four,  of  the  latter  three  ;  and  but 
for  the  unfortunate  circumstances  which  deprived  this  old  and  highly  respected  family  of  their 
estate,  the  next  laird  would  have  been  the  fourth  George. 

In  Papa,  the  second  Thomas  is  remembered  as  the  '*  wicked  laird."    He  was  in  league  with 
♦  In  1696.  t  Dr  Traill's  Genealogy,  Intro.. ix.  t  Favoured  by  Mr  James  Tait, 


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-236  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

the  Devil,  whose  assistance  he  could  at  any  time  invoke,  of  course  under  the  bond  usual  in 
such  cases.  When  the  fiend  at  length  came  to  claim  his  own,  Thomas  Traill  refused  to  yield 
liimself,  and  after  a  long  and  desperate  combat,  in  which  they  used  carnal  weapons,  the  laird 
put  his  adversary  to  flight.  If  any  one  doubts  the  fact,  let  him  visit  the  West  Park,  and  he 
will  see  the  place  where  the  duel  took  place,  a  sterile  spot  in  the  midst  of  fertility.  But  it  is 
not  easy  to  circumvent  Satan,  and  when  Thomas,  having  died  in  his  bed,  was  being  carried  to 
his  last  resting-place,  a  loud  explosion  within  the  coffin  intimated  to  the  horrified  bearers  that 
the  Devil  had  got  his  due. 

From  Traill  his  house  in  Broad  Street  was  bought  by  Harry  Erburie,  who  built  on  its  site 
**ane  large  new  tenement,  sclaitt  ruifed,  estimat  in  yeirlie  rent  to  fyftie  pound."  Like 
Margaret  Grott's  house,  Erburie*s  front  was  adorned  by  an  oriel  window. 

Erburie  was  one  of  CromweU's  soldiers,  who,  when  the  garrison  was  withdrawn,  got  or 
took  permission  to  remain  behind.  His  first  wife,  Barbara  Garden,  perhaps  came  north  with 
him,  but  his  second,  Anna  Moncrieif,  he  married  in  Kirkwall.  The  retired  soldier  became  a 
flourishing  merchant  and  an  active  public  man. 

When  the  Cathedral  spire  was  burned.  Bailie  Erburie  did  what  he  could  to  save  the 
building  : — "  Compeared  Harie  erbrie,  merchant,  and  declared  that  when  the  steeple  was 
fyring,  He,  at  the  request  of  the  magistrates,  lent  seventeen  salt  hyds,  which  were  laid  upon 
the  highest  lofting  of  the  steeple  and  upon  the  bells,  for  saving  the  said  lofting  and  bells, 
and  that  .seven  of  them  were  brunt  and  ten  damished,  and  desired  payment  therefor,  viz., 
Eighteen  pound  scots  for  his  said  lost  and  damished  hyds."* 

Harry  and  his  wife,  Anna  MoncriefF,  had  three  daughters,  who  all  married  well-to-do 
husbands  in  Kirkwall,  and  one  son,  John,  who  succeeded  to  his  father's  business.  John  was 
married  in  Sandwick  to  Margaret  Murray,  1693.  Young  John  Erburie  was  de.stined  for  a 
professional  career,  and  at  the  age  of  fifteen  he  went  to  study  at  St.  Andrews.  At  the  Uni- 
versity, however,  he  fell  into  expensive  habits,  and  contracted  debts  which  hampered  him  to 
the  end  of  his  life.  In  deference  to  his  classical  training,  he  is  in  all  public  documents 
naming  him,  styled  Mr  John  Erburie. 

Thomas  Brown,  in  his  diary,  is  very  careful  in  his  application  of  this  title  : — "  Wedne.sday, 
Mr  Jn.  Watt,  that  came  from  Edinboro  to  be  schoolmaster  of  the  grammar  school,  was 
examined  in  the  said  school  in  presence  of  Mr  Jas.  Wallace,  Mr  Jn.  Wilson,  Mr  John  Shilpes, 
Mr  John  Herbrie,  Mr  Thos.  Fullertoune,  Gairsay,  Oversanday,  Stenhou.se,  Tankerness,  and 
several  others."  f 

As  to  young  Erburie's  debts,  we  find  that  Patrick  Traill,  mariner,  met  him  in  Leith  and 
lent  him  £20,  for  which  he  took  his  "ticket,"  July  1692.  This  was  sued  for  in  Kirkwall  by 
the  son  of  the  lender  in  1698.  Erburie  admitted  the  debt,  and  said  he  would  pay  it  when  he 
could,  but  the  Magistrates  ordered  him  to  square  accounts  in  fifteen  days  under  penalty  of 
poinding.  He  had  got,  at  different  times,  from  William  Lamb,  merchant,  Edinburgh,  money 
or  value  to  the  extent  of  £436  stg.,  and,  in  security.  Lamb,  1698,  got  saline  of  Erburie's  house 
in  Broad  Street,  with  the  usual  formalities  of  "  earth  and  stone,  hasp  and  staple."  This  bond 
was  redeemable  by  the  i>ayment  of  principal  and  interest, "  within  the  old  church  of  Edin- 
burgh, at  that  part  where  the  Earl  of  Murray's  tomb  is  situated,"  Lamb  to  have  forty  days' 
notice.  But  the  bond  was  not  cleared  off  in  St.  Giles,' Edinburgh  ;  it  was  transferred  from 
LaniVs  Trustees  to  John  Nisbet,  merchant,  Kirkwall.  Among  the  witnesses  of  the  transfer  is 
John  Watt,  "Practitioner  of  Physick."  Nisbet  became  proprietor,  and  the  name  Erburie 
became  extinct  in  Orkney. 

♦  S.  R.,  24th  May  1671.  t  T.  B.,  22nd  Aug.  1688. 


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BROAD  STREET. 


237 


Nisbet  married  Marjory  Traill,  daughter  of  James  Traill  of  Westove,  widow  of  Thomas 
Louttit  of  Lyking,  and  in  1704  granted  his  wife  liferent  of  this  property. 

In  1776,  this  house  belonged  to  Robert  Sutherland,  from  whom  it  passed  to  his  son, 
Donald.  From  Sutherland  it  was  acquired  by  BaUie  James  Traill,  by  the  marriage  of  whose 
daughter,  Elizabeth,  it  came  into  possession  of  Mr  Traill  Urquhart. 

South  of  the  Provostrie  was  the  Thesaurerie,  the  Treasurer's  house,  no  longer  represented 
by  any  distinctive  building.    It  occupied  the  southern  part  of  the  site  of  Mr  Tait's  property 

and  the  northern  part  of  Mr  Baikie's.  One 
of  its  earliest  proprietors  after  the  Reforma- 
tion was  William  Craigie  of  Gairsay.  Gair- 
say's  house  below  the  Bridge  was,  as  has  been 
seen,  going  to  ruin,  and  this  may  have  been 
either  the  cause  or  the  effect  of  its  owner's 
occupancy  of  the  Thesaurerie. 

Hugh  Craigie,  next  of  Gairsay,  sold  this 
tenement,  along  with  "his  thrie  cowis  worth 
of  udal  land  in  the  town  of  Oversanday,"  to  his 
brother  David. 

The  garden  and  peat  brae  extended  back 
to  the  Peerie  Sea,  and,  like  the  neighbouring 
houses,  it  had  a  jetty  for  boats.  Thomas 
Brown,  under  date  6th  December  1681,  says  :— 
*'  Tuesday  morning,  There  was  a  Pallaig  whale 
which  came  to  the  shoir  of  Muddisquoy,  or 
thereby,  within  the  Oyce  of  Kirkwall,  and 
about  eleven  of  the  same  day,  Thomas  Flett, 
borrowman,  towed  the  same  from  that  part  to 
Oversanday's  back  dyke." 

Gairsay's  pew  is  described  as  "lyand  in 
the  mid  ysland  of  the  church  on  the  east 
side  of  the  pulpit."  Oversanday's  was  just 
opposite.  "David  Craigie  of  Oversanday 
obtained  libertie  to  bring  out  his  seat  in  the 
church  floor  as  far  as  the  new  latron,  where 
ye  precentor  sitts,  and  to  make  it  regular  with 
it."*  The  lectern  was  at  the  eastmost  pillar 
on  the  south  side  of  the  choir.  This  privilege  was  the  more  readily  granted  because,  in  1674, 
"  there  was  ane  ewer  or  handsome  pewter  or  stoup  with  a  stroop  sent  from  David  Craigie 
of  Oversanday,  Provost,  for  the  use  of  the  kirk,  qch  was  delivered  to  David  Seattar,  church 
beddall,  and  he  ordained  to  keep  it  weall  and  cleanlie  for  the  use  of  carrying  water  to 
baptismes."    The  name  "  Kirkwall "  was  engraved  upon  this  stoup. 

Craigie  married  Jean,  daughter  of  Patrick  Graham  of  Grahamshall,  she  who  kept  the 
dreadful  vigil  in  the  chamber  of  the  frail  Elspeth  Ballenden.t  Two  daughters,  Barbara  and 
Margaret,  died  young,  probably  at  Grahamshall,  as  they  are  buried  in  Holm.  Thomas  Brown 
records  the  marriage  of  the  Provost's  only  daughter,  Anna,  to  William  Rendall  of  Breck, 
February  1686.  After  the  death  of  his  brother  Hugh,  David  Craigie  went  to  live  at  Pabdale. 
"  Wednesday,  Anna  Craigie,  spouse  to  Wm.  Rendall,  Fiar  of  Breck,  depd.  this  life  in  her 
♦  S.  R.,  14th  October  1689.  t  See  ante,  p.  190. 


David  Craigie's  Tombstone,  in  St.  Magnus 
Cathedi*a1. 


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238  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

father's  house  in  Pabdaill,  betwixt  6  and  7  in  the  forenoon  or  yrby,  and  was  interred  in  St. 
Magnas  Kirk  in  Kirkwall  upon  Friday  the  3rd."* 

In  1669  Provost  Craigie  was  elected  Member  of  Parliament  for  Kirkwall,  but,  owing  to 
his  wife's  severe  illness,  did  not  take  his  seat,  and  had  to  get  a  certificate  of  loyalty  from  the 
Kirk  Session.    He  was  again  returned  in  1681  and  in  1685. 

When  Oversanday  went  to  Pabdale  he  sold  the  old  Thesaurerie  to  Hugh  Baikie  of 
Burness,  who  removed  to  Broad  Street  from  his  old  house  at  the  corner  of  the  Long  Gutter. 

The  first  Baikie  of  Burness  was  James,  nephew  of  James  Baikie,  first  of  Tankerness,  who 
in  1667  bought  from  John  Sclaitter  his  lands  of  Burness,  Newbouse  in  Redland,  Benyie- 
scart,  &c. 

Burness  had  two  sons,  Hugh,  who  succeeded,  and  Thomas.  In  1700,  Hugh  sold  his  town 
house  to  his  brother,  ^  Mr  Thomas  Baikie,  minister,  first  in  ordour  at  the  Kirk  of  KirkwaU," 
and  then  the  southern  and  northern  boundaries  were  respectively  the  house  of  James  Baikie 
of  Tankerness  and  that  of  ^'  Mr"  John  £rbnrie,  merchant. 

Before  purchasing,  Mr  Baikie  asked  the  Magistrates,  in  absence  of  the  Dean-of-Guild,  "  to 
cause  appretiat  the  house."  "  Thairfore  they  appoynted  William  Young,  one  of  the  present 
Baillies,  with  WUliam  Sutherland  and  David  Traill,  two  of  ther  Councill,  to  take  along  with 
them  thrie  workmen,  viz.,  a  wright,  a  measone,  and  a  sclaitter,  and  there  to  inspect  the  con- 
ditione  of  the  forsaid  Tenement,  and  to  consider  what  sowme  the  same  would  take  to  repair 
it." 

The  workmen  were  "* judicially  swome,"  and  they  find  that  "The  hall  is  totallie  ruinous 
in  Gavills  and  Syde- walls,  and  wanting  Rooff  and  windowes,"  and  so  with  the  greater  part  of 
the  house.  They  find  generally  that  the  value  of  the  whole  place  was  "  ffyfe  hundreth  merks 
Scotts  money,"  and  that  it  would  take  other  "  ffyfe  hundreth  to  make  it  a  sufficient  dwelling- 
house  as  formerlie  it  was." 

In  1724,  Andrew  Baikie  of  Hoy,  son  of  Hugh  Baikie  of  Burness,  not  meaning  to  reside  in 
Kirkwall,  gave  up  his  pew  to  his  uncle,  Mr  Thomas  Baikie. 

The  Rev.  Thomas  Baikie  was  ordained  by  the  Presbytery  of  Aberdeen,  1697,  and  was  the 
same  year  inducted  in  Kirkwall.  In  lieu  of  a  manse  he  got  £24  per  annum.t  He  was  a  man 
of  power  in  his  day,  and  it  was  a  day  which  required  a  powerful  man  to  hold  the  first  charge 
in  St.  Magnus. 

He  succeeded  Mr  Wilson,  who  had  been  a  very  popular  minister.  Mr  Wilson  saw  the 
change  from  episcopacy  to  presbyterianism.  He  was  rudely  prohibited  by  Elphingston  of 
Lopness  from  officiating  in  the  Cathedral  as  an  episcopal  clergyman,  and  while  he  stated  that 
he  voluntarily  resigned  in  favour  of  Mr  Baikie,  he  still  claimed  a  pastoral  relation  to  the  con- 
gregation, and  insisted  that  to  him  belonged  half  of  the  pulpit.  Many  of  the  congregation 
adhered  to  him  and  attended  the  meetings  held  in  his  house  in  the  Anchor  Close.  Such  meetings 
were  no  doubt  illegal,  and  should  have  been  suppressed  by  the  Magistrates,  but  these  gentlemen 
secretly  sympathised  with  the  persecuted  prelatists,  and  some  of  them  attended  their  con- 
venticles. The  very  beadle,  who  in  Scottish  churches  usually  represents  standard  orthodoxy, 
was  at  this  time  not  above  suspicion.  Mr  Baikie  had  been  unwell  for  three  weeks,  and  on 
Sabbath,  3rd  January  1703,  there  was  no  pulpit  supply  for  St.  Magnus.  Judge,  then,  of  the 
surprise  and  horror  of  the  invalid  clergyman,  when  in  his  bed  he  heard  the  bells  ring  out  their 
well-known  peal  calling  the  flock  to  assemble.  Mrs  Baikie,  from  the  front  window,  saw  the 
people  streaming  into  the  church,  and  possibly  noticed  Mr  Wilson  among  them.  She  at  once 
grasped  the  situation,  and  was  equal  to  it.  Hastily  assisting  her  husband,  not  to  dress — no 
time  for  that— but  to  shove  himself  into  a  decent  quantity  of  clothing,  Mrs  Baikie,  with  the 
♦  T.  B.,  l8t  July  1691.  t  S.  R.,  2nd  May  1698. 


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BROAD  STREET.  239 

minister,  crossed  the  Kirk  Qreen,  marched  valiantly  into  the  church,  mounted  the  pulpit  steps, 
dragged  Mr  Wilson  out,  dismissed  the  congregation,  and  saw  the  doors  locked.  Although  he 
had  carefully  kept  his  night-cap  on  his  head  all  the  time,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  reverend 
gentleman  was  none  tbe  better  for  his  outing.  Next  day  there  should  have  been  a  meeting  of 
Session,  but  the  clerk's  entpr,  w— "  Noe^Sessioa,  Because  of  the  Minister's  great  tenderness." 
On  thtd  week  foltowing,  however,  Mr  Baikie  wits  present  in  his  war  paint.  He  '^  represented 
to  the  Session  that  David  Seater,  one  of  the  kirk  officers,  did  upon  the  third  instant,  being  the 
Lord's  day,  at  the  desyre  of  Mr  John  Wilson,  Lait  Incumbent  in  this  place,  ring  the  bells,  and 
8oe  give  occasion  to  the  said  Mr  Wilson  his  intruding  to  the  pulpit  of  KirkwlL  that  day,  which 
was  the  cause  of  much  confusion." 

'*  Tbe  Session  referrs  his  censure  untill  the  next  Session  Day."  When  that  day  came,  they 
*' judged  him  to  have  forfaulted  his  place,  and  therefor  hereby  doe  depryve  him  of  his  office 
and  the  benefite  thereto  Belonging,  and  discharges  him  from  doeing  any  office  about  the 
Kirk." 

At  the  instigatitm  of  Captain  Moodie  of  Melsetter,  a  charge  of  irreligion  and  blasphemy, 
uttered  in  sermons  preached  in  March  1712,  was  raised  against  Mr  Baikie.  The  Assembly 
took  up  tbe  case,  but  departed  from  it,  perhaps  regarding  the  accusation  as  an  act  of  revenge 
on  the  part  of  Moodie. 

On  the  occasion  of  a  recent  visitation  of  the  presbytery  to  the  church  of  Walls,  the 
ministers  were  shocked  to  find  that  the  housekeeper  of  Melsetter  had  in  the  house  three 
unbaptised  children,  bairns  of  the  Laird.  Moodie  was  cited  as  a  fornicator,  hence  his  horror 
at  Mr  Baikie's  irreligion  and  blasphemy. 

Mr  Baikie  married,  first,  Elizabeth  Fea,  daughter  of  Patrick  Fea  of  Whitehall,  who  brought 
with  her  a  tocher  of  1000  merks.  It  was  she  who  so  valorously  assisted  her  husband  in  ousting 
Mr  Wilscm  from  the  pulpit.  They  bad  five  sons  and  four  daughters.  His  second  wife  was 
Elizabeth  Traill,  who  had  one  daughter,  afterwards  the  wife  of  Mr  Yule,  minister  of  the  first 
charge.  He  died  in  1740,  in  his  sixty-eighth  year  of  life  and  forty-fourth  of  ministry.  Mr 
Baikie,  his  son-in-law,  Mr  John  Yule,  and  grandson,  Mr  Robert  Yule,  occupied  the  pulpit  of 
the  Cathedral  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  years. 

In  1738,  Baikie  had  granted  liferent  of  the  Thesaurerie  to  his  wife,  Elizabeth  Traill,  with 
succession  to  his  son  John.  Immediately  on  the  back  of  this,  the  young  man,  presumably 
unknown  to  his  father,  borrowed  from  Mr  James  Stewart,  writer,  Edinburgh,  the  sum  of  £20, 
granting  a  bond  over  the  house,  the  interest  to  run  from  10th  March  1738. 

No  interest  was  ever  paid,  and  after  thirty-five  years  the  amount  ainie  to  £57  28  9d.  Baikie 
was  never  infeft  in  the  house,  and,  to  keep  himself  right,  Stewart  procured  infeftment.  But 
soon  afterwards,  Mr  Stewart  became  bankrupt,  and  Baikie's  house  passed  to  Stewart's 
creditors.  This  complication  led  to  additional  expense.  However,  the  account  was  at  length 
put  straight,  and  in  1787,  the  minister's  great-grandson,  Thomas  Baikie  of  Burness,  then 
residing  in  Janaaica,  sold  his  house  in  Broad  Street  to  Alexander  Eraser,  '*  Land  waiter  in  the 
Customs  of  Orkney."  In  the  year  following,  Eraser  transferred  it  to  Robert  Baikie  of 
Tankemeas.    About  the  same  time,  Burness  was  sold  to  James  Stewart  of  Brugh. 

The  Sub-chantry  and  Archdeanery,  now  known  as  Tankerness  House,  seem  to  have  been 
rebuilt  in  their  present  form  by  Gilbert  Foulzie,  who  had  occupied  the  southern  wing  in  his 
official  capacity  as  Archdeacon. 

At  the  Eeformation,  Foulzie  managed  to  obtain  possession  of  both  of  these  official 
residences,  and  making  some  additions,  he  constructed  for  himself  a  very  commodious 
mansion.    From  the  date  above  the  gateway,  he  had  completed  his  improvements  in  1574. 

His  daughter,  Ursula,  married  Edward  Sinclair  of  Essenquoy,  Provost  of  Kirkwall  and 


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240  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNKYS. 

Member  of  Parliament.  Foulzie's  grandson,  Gilbert  Sinclair,  married  Anna  Rallenden,  but, 
whether  from  extravagance  or  other  causes,  he  was  in  pecuniary  difficulties  all  his  life.  Bishop 
Graham  had  a  bond  over  his  house,  which  he  transferred  to  Smythe  of  Braco. 

In  1625,  we  find  him  borrowing  considerable  sums,  and  froni  tliat  time  downwards  his 
name  constantly  appears  in  the  Sheriff-Court  books  as  negotiating  loans,  some  of  them  obvi- 
ously to  wipe  off  previous  advances.  In  November  1633,  he  borrowed  £60()  from  James  Baikie 
of  Tankemess,  and  in  the  same  month,  jointly  with  his  father,  he  took  another  loan  of  10(K> 
merks  from  the  same  lender.  In  these  circumstances  it  is  not  surprising  that  Gilbert  Foulzie's 
mansion  became  Tankemess  House. 

Baikie  is  one  of  the  oldest  Orcadian  family  names,  and  is  a  Norse  equivalent  of  Burn  or 
Burns. 

According  to  Torfseus,  Paul  Baikie  was  King  Haco's  pilot,  1263.  The  present  family  trace 
themselves  back  to  Magnus  Baikie,  who  held  lands  in  Birsay  in  1532,  and  who  claimed  descent 
from  the  above-named  ancient  mariner.  Thomas  Baikie  inherited  Magnus'  property,  and 
lived  on  it,  but  his  sons,  James  and  John,  came  to  Kirkwall. 

James  was  bom  in  1590,  and  starting  in  life  without  special  advantages,  certainly  without 
much  capital,  he  died  the  wealthiest  man  in  Orkney. 

As  a  merchant  he  was  very  successful.  Money  was  scarce  in  Orkney  in  those  days,  but  in 
Shetland  plenty  of  coin  was  left  by  the  fleets  of  foreign  vessels,  principally  Dutch,  which 
annually  visited  the  islands.  But  Shetland  was  not  a  producing  country,  and  it  drew  its 
supplies  from  Orkney.  Thus  Baikie  and  others  found  a  ready  market  and  ready  money  for  all 
their  produce.  Having  acquired  a  command  of  cash,  he  advanced  loans  on  mortgages,  and  as 
at  that  time  the  rate  of  interest  was  ten  per  cent,  on  the  best  securities,  bis  capital  rapidly 
increased  when  the  interest  was  paid,  and  his  lands  when  the  interest  failed. 

It  was  shortly  after  one  of  these  loans,  so  often  fatal  to  the  recipient,  that  the  Tankemess 
estate  fell  into  his  hands,  and  similarly,  as  has  been  seen,  Tankemess  House. 

Along  with  Buchanan  of  Sound,  Baikie  farmed  the  Bishopric  rents  from  the  city  of 
Edinburgh  from  1652  to  1656,  when,  on  the  death  of  Sound,  Tankemess  remained  sole  tacks- 
man till  1660. 

On  the  16th  of  January  1675,  "  James  Baikie  of  Tankemess  departed  this  life  about  mid- 
night or  thereby,  being  Saturday,  and  was  interred  in  the  South  side  of  the  Kir^  of  St. 
Andrews,  where  there  is  a  tomb  built  by  Arthur  Baikie,  his  son,  now  Tankemess,  upon 
Wednesday,  20th  January  1675."* 

Arthur  was  the  second  son,  Thomas,  the  elder,  having  died  without  issue,  1674. 

Possibly  the  former  proprietor,  certainly  his  successor,  found  Tankemess  House  somewhat 
too  large  for  full  occupation,  for  in  the  Valuation  Roll  of  1677  it  is  recorded  that  Thomas 
Brown,  messenger,  and  Thomas  Stewart,  N.P.,  had  '*  twa  chalmers  "  in  Arthur  Baikie's  house. 

Arthur  Baikie  was  one  of  the  ablest  public  men  that  has  ever  taken  part  in  the  municipal 
govemment  of  Kirkwall.  He  had  two  objects  constantly  before  him,  his  own  interests  and  the 
interests  of  the  burgh.  The  two  generally  went  hand  in  hand,  but  when  they  clashed,  public 
interest  went  to  the  wall  and  allowed  the  Baikie  interest  to  have  its  way.  On  one  occasion 
the  Magistrates  and  Council  of  Edinburgh  were  appealed  to  that  the  duties  on  liquors  con- 
sumed here  might  be  granted  to  the  town  for  the  common  good,  and  a  voluntary  assessment 
was  made  to  defray  the  expenses  of  Provost  Baikie  in  going  south  to  procure  this  privilege. 
The  Town  Council  of  Edinburgh  granted  the  favour  asked,  and  gave  Baikie  a  license  to  that 
effect,  leaving  blank  spaces  to  be  filled  up  by  the  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall.  But  here  the 
worthy  Chief  Magistrate,  seeing  an  opportunity  for  enriching  himj^lf,  took  it,  and,  to  the 

♦  T.  B. 


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BROAD   STREET.  241 

disgust  find  indiguatioD  of  the  inhubitants  generally  and  of  the  merchants  particularly,  brought 
home  the  document  with  his  own  name  inserted  as  the  licensed  receiver  of  the  liquor  duties. 
A  petition  was  immediately  drawn  up  and  forwarded  to  the  Lord  Provost  of  Edinburgh  : — 

**  My  Lo.,  unto  your  Ic,  humbly  meines  and  shewes,  we,  your  servitors,  David  Drummond, 
merchant  in  Kirkwall ;  Harie  Herberie  merchd.  yr.  ;  Frances  Murray,  Collector  ther  ;  William 
Muddle,  merd.  ther  ;  Patrick  Traill,  elder.  Skipper  ;  and  Patrick  Traill,  yor. ,  merd.  ther  ;  Alexander 
Smith,  merd.  ther ;  David  Forbes,  Town  clerk  ther ;  Mai'grat  Grott,  relict  of  umqi.  Patrick  Prince, 
merd.  ther  ;  Nicoll  Ewenson,  Tailyour  ther  ;  Thomas  louttit,  merd.  yr.  ;  William  Linklater,  merd. 
yr.  ;  Geo.  Traill  and  John  Caldell,  merd.  yr.  ;  John  Richan,  merd.  yr.  ;  Geo.  moad,  wright ;  and 
Robert  Potinger,  merd.  ;  James  Baikie,  George  Spence,  and  David  MoncrieiT,  Bailyes  of  the  sd.  brughe 
of  Kirkwall ;  Harie  Herberie,  Thesaurer  and  Dean-of-Gild  of  the  sd.  brughe,  for  ourselves  and  in 
name  and  behalfe  of  the  remanent  toun  Counsell  and  Communatie  of  the  sd.  brughe,  and  uther 
merchands  and  venteners  yrin.  That  qr.  Arthur  Baikie,  present  Proveist  of  the  sd.  brughe  of  Kirkwall, 
has  caused  charge  us,  and  ilk  ane  of  us,  for  our  owne  parts,  and  according  to  the  quantities  and 
qualities  of  liquors  vented  and  sold  be  us  wtin  the  sd.  hrughe,  to  mack  payment  to  him  of  the  pettie 
impost  of  all  wynes,  brandies,  seek,  and  uther  sicklyke  liquors  sold  and  vented  be  us  within  the  said 
brughe,  and  also  of  the  plack  of  the  pyiit  of  all  ale  sold  be  us  within  tlie  samyn  brughe,  Conforme  to 
ane  gift  thereof,  allead.  procured  be  him  from  your  lop.  upon  the  day  of 

yeares.  And  whereupon  he  has  lers.  of  horning,  and  therewith  caused  charge  us,  in  manner  forsd., 
within  certaine  short  space  nixt  aft-er  the  sds.  charges,  under  the  paynes  of  horning  and  poyudiug, 
tending  for  our  alleac.  disobedience  to  denounce  us  rebells,  and  put  us  to  the  home." 

After  setting  forth  the  injustice  of  the  charges  made  by  the  Provost,  the  petitioners  show 
how  sore  they  felt  that  Baikie  should  have  secured  his  privilege  by  the  use  of  their  own 
money.  Not  only  had  they  been  "  cessed  in  ane  certaine  sou  me  of  moie.  for  procureing  and 
obtaineing  the  sd.  Gift,  but  als.  an  uyr.  soume  of  moie.  towards  the  defraying  the  Charger's 
expenses  in  staying  at  Edinr.  the  tyme  of  the  obtaneing  yrof.  Notwithstanding  of  all  which 
the  sd.  charger  did,  in  a  most  baise  and  unhandsome  manner,  fill  up  his  owne  name  yrin,  and 
thereupone  charge  us  in  manner  forsd.  Swa  that  we,  haveing  not  only  payed  for  procureing 
the  said  gift,  but  for  the  sd.  Charger  his  attendance  at  Edinr.  the  tyme  of  procureing  thereof 
in  manner  forsd.  The  sd.  Charger  was  iu  pessimajide  to  fill  up  his  name  in  the  sd.  Gift,  and 
far  more  to  charge  us  therupone,"  etc.,  etc. 

Arthur  Baikie's  audacity  in  this  transaction  commands  admiration.  There  was  no  false 
pretension  here.  The  Magistrates  of  Edinburgh  had  handed  him  a  blank  charter,  signed  by 
their  authority,  and  he  filled  it  up  as  he  saw  fit. 

The  Provost  was  head  and  shoulders  above  his  fellow-townsmen  in  regard  to  the  sagacious 
handling  of  all  kinds  of  business,  and  he  was  prompt  in  everything  he  undertook.  When  in 
his  walks  abroad  he  discovered  any  matter  requiring  future  looking  to,  he  at  once  made  a 
memorandum  of  it,  and  saw  to  it  himself  or  brought  it  before  the  Council,  as  the  case  required. 
He  did  much  business  for  the  church,  even  importing  timber  from  Norway  at  the  Session's 
desire. 

January  30th,*  **  Arthur  Baikie  of  Tankerness  departed  this  life  at  Leith,  and  was  interred 
in  the  Greyfriars'  Kirkyard  at  Edinboro."  Since  his  day,  many  Baikies  of  Tankerness  have 
taken  an  active  part  in  the  municipal  business  of  Kirkwall,  but  among  them  all  there  has  not 
arisen  a  greater  than  Arthur.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son  James.t  Arthur's  brother, 
William,  by  a  large  donation  of  books,  chiefly  theological,  laid  the  foundation  of  the  public 
library  of  Kirkwall.  "  It  was  ordained  that  a  press  should  be  builded  at  the  expenses  of  the 
Session  for  the  books  mortified  by  Mr  William  Baikie  and  others  to  the  church  of  Kirkwall."  t 

Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  was  returned  Member  for  the  County  in  1780,  but  was  un- 
seated, 1781,  on  the  petition  of  his  opponent,  Charles  Dundas.  He  again  contested  the  county 
in  1784,  but  was  defeated  by  Thomas  Dundas. 

*  1678,  T.  B.        t  In  1686,  James  Baikie  received  a  grant  of  arms.        J  S.  R.,  17th  Dec.  1689. 

21 


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242  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  state  of  feeling  in  Kirkwall  at  the  time  of  these  elections  is  brought  out  in  the  trial 
of  George  Eunson,  Extraordinary  Officer  of  Excise,  in  1786,  for  assault  on  Robert  Blair, 
shoemaker.  Eunson  having  been  convicted,  raised  an  action  against  the  Magistrates  of  Kirk- 
wall for  wrongous  imprisonment,  which  elicited  a  "  Memorial  for  John  Weir,  Thomas  Traill, 
Captain  John  Traill,  and  Thomas  Jameson,  Baillies  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall ;  and  James 
Erskine,  J(»hn  Reid,  Alexander  Stewart,  and  Samuel  Murray,  Counsellors  of  the  said  Burgh." 
The  memorialists,  after  a  very  uncomplimentary  biography  of  George  Eunson  from  his  school 
days  to  the  raising  of  this  action,  state  that  **  Mr  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  having  lost  two 
elections,  the  one  in  1780  and  the  other  in  1784,  he  and  his  friends  were  determined  to  be 
revenged  against  those  who  voted  against  him.  For  this  purpose  they  came  to  the  resolution 
of  informing  against  somo  of  the  Memorialists  as  Notorious  Smugglers,  expecting  that  such 
information  would  ruin  them  and  their  families." 

"Mr  Baikie  and  his  friends,  finding  they  would  fail  in  this  attempt,  thought  of  another 
expedient  to  harrass  the  Memorialists,  and  that  was  to  get  George  EuAson  made  a  Custom- 
house Officer.  They  accordingly  procured  a  Commission  for  him,  but  previous  thereto  they 
gave  him  this  injunction,  both  in  word  and  write,  that  whatever  he  did  he  should  take  care  of 
their  friends,  the  plain  meaning  of  which  was  that  whatever  goods  he  should  seize,  he  should 
take  care  not  to  touch  any  of  those  belonging  to  Mr  Baikie  or  his  political  Connections.  This 
iT\junction  George  Eunson  scrupulously  adhered  to  ;  for,  in  several  searches  that  he  made  in 
the  Town  of  Kirkwall,  and  particularly  that  through  the  shops,  of  which  particular  notice  was 
taken  in  a  former  memorial  sent  to  Ednr.,  he  took  care  not  to  trouble  or  molest  any  of  Mr 
Baikie's  connixtions,  altho'  he  endeavoured  to  harrass  and  distress  those  who  were  opposite  in 
principle  to  them.  In  a  late  examination  respecting  his  conduct  as  an  officer,  it  has  been 
proved,  even  by  one  of  Mr  Baikie's  own  friends,  that  he  said  to  him  that  if  he  happened  to 
see  anything  of  his  he  would  endeavour  to  get  out  of  the  way.  His  partiality,  and  the  extra- 
ordinary manner  in  which  he  acted  towards  some  of  the  memorialists,  being  represented  to  the 
Commissioners  of  the  Customs,  they  thought  it  necessary  first  to  suspend  him  and  afterwards 
to  take  away  his  Commission  from  him." 

In  1818,  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  James,  an  advocate 
living  in  Edinburgh.  James  Baikie  borrowed  from  James  Spence,  merchant,  a  sum  of  £1000, 
and  granted  a  bond  over  his  property,  15th  April  1818  *  3rd  January  1822,  he  increased  his 
debt  to  £5000,  when  Spence  placed  him  in  the  hands  of  Alexander  Macartney,  Esq.,  manager 
of  the  Commercial  Bank  of  Scotland,  who  took  a  bond  over  the  Tankerness  estate.  This 
transaction  led  to  the  establishing  of  a  branch  of  the  Commercial  Bank  in  Kirkwall  under 
the  agency  of  Mr  Spence. 

South  of  Tankerness  House,  and  terminating  Broad  Street  in  that  direction,  was  the 
official  residence  of  the  Chancellor  of  the  Cathedral. 

In  the  Valuation  Roll  of  1677,  the  Chancellor's  house  is  thus  entered :—"  The  airis  of 
umqle  Patrick  Menteith  of  Egilshay  hath  ane  great  tenement  under  a  sclaitt  ruiff,  with  some 
ruinous  houses  to  the  west  pairt  of  the  close  yrto  belonging,  betwixt  the  street  on  the  east,  the 
sands  and  oyse  on  the  west,  the  land  pertaining  to  Arthur  Baikie  of  Tankerness  on  the  north, 
and  the  comm(m  school  passage  from  the  school  to  the  sands  on  the  south." 

And  here  it  may  be  permitted  to  remark  regarding  this  southern  boundary,  that  had  the 
old  name.  School  Wynd,  been  retained,  a  piece  of  burgh  history  would  have  been  commemo- 
rated which  is  now  apt  to  be  forgotten.  When  the  Grammar  School,  built  by  Bishop  Reid, 
sufficed  for  the  education  of  the  youth  of  Kirkwall,  the  Sands  of  the  Peerie  Sea  served  as 
playground,  and  this  common  passage  was  the  way  down  which,  after  the  manner  of  their 
*  The  date  of  registration  in  the  Court  books. 


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BROAD  STREET.  243 

kind,  the  boys  of  Kirkwall  for  many  generations  ran  whooping  and  shouting  to  tbeir  mid-day 
sports.  Though  the  old  name  of  the  lane  has  been  long  forgotten,  the  title  of  the  recreation 
ground  died  hard.  Indeed,  it  was  transferred  to  the  playground  of  the  new  Grammar  School, 
which  old  boys  now  living  knew  as  *'  Craig's  Sands." 

Egilshay  had  formerly  belonged  to  the  Stewarts.  William  Stewart  of  Egilshay,  "ane 
honourable  man,"  gave  a  twelve  years'  lease  of  the  lands  of  Meness  to  Hugh  Sinclair^  July  1605. 

In  1614,  Robert  Monteith  had  a  charter  of  Egilshay  and  Work.  He  was  the  first  of  the 
family  to  hold  property  in  Orkney.  His  father,  Patrick  Monteith,  **of  Fair  Isle,"  appears  as 
witness  to  a  charter  by  Alexander  Irvine,  Dunrossness,  7th  August  1595.*  Whatever  may  have 
been  the  origin  of  the  Monteiths'  title  to  the  Fair  Isle,  their  tenure  was  of  brief  duration. 
When,  in  1588,  disaster  befell  the  Spanish  Armada,  the  island  belonged  to  Andrew  Umphray 
of  Burra,  and  early  in  the  seventeenth  centnry,  Sinclair  of  Quendale  was  proprietor. 

"  A  Description  of  the  Isles  of  Orkney,  from  the  MS.  of  Robert  Monteith^  Laird  of  EgiUha 
and  GairsOj  dated  Kirkwall,  Sept.  24, 1633,"  along  with  a  fuller  *^  Description  of  the  Isles  of 
Shetland  "  from  the  same  pen,  was  afterwards  embodied  in  Sir  Robert  Sibbald's  work  on  the 
Topography  of  Scotland.  Monteith's  descriptions  are  fairly  accurate,  but  some  of  his  statements 
savour  of  the  superstition  of  the  age.  "  Sometimes  they  " — the  Shetland  fishermen — **  catch 
with  their  Nets  and  Hooks  Tritons  and  Mermaidsy  but  these  are  rare,  and  but  seldom  seen." 

Monteith  incidentally  shows  how  the  merchants  of  Kirkwall  wete  able  to  accumulate  coin 
at  a  time  when  coin  was  somewhat  scarce  in  Scotland  :—  "  The  greatest  Advantages  Shetland 
hath  is  from  the  fishing  of  Herring  and  Cod,  which  abounds  so  there  that  great  Fleets  of  the 
Hollanders  come  there,  and  by  the  order  of  the  State's  General  begin  to  take  Herring  upon 
St.  Joh7i's  day.  And  all  the  Summer  the  Inhabitants  of  Shetland,  besides  the  Herrings  they 
take,  are  constantly  employed  in  taking  Cod  and  Ling,  which  they  sell,  and  thus  in  time  of 
Peace  they  do  flourish.  In  the  Winter  time  they  feed  strongly  upon  Fleshes,  for  the  country 
affords  many  Cows,  Sheep,  and  Swine,  and  plenty  of  Fowles.  The  country  affords  but  little 
Com,  and  much  of  that  often  shaken  by  the  Violent  Winds,  so  that  they  must  be  supplied 
from  Orkney." 

From  the  date  at  Kirkwall,  these  descriptions  must  have  been  written  in  the  Chancellor's 
Manse.  Robert  Monteith  **  eoft  a  tak  f ra  William  Ballantyne  and  his  airis  of  the  subdeanery 
of  Orknay."  Moreover,  he  secured  for  himself  the  rents  of  the  Prebendarie  of  St.  Peter, 
which  constituted  the  stipend  of  the  teacher  of  the  Grammar  School,  so  that  the  school  was 
in  1620  without  a  master,  but  **  suppleit  be  the  ridar  for  the  present,  quha  hes  nothing  for  it."  t 

Monteith's  first  mfe  was  Katherine,  daughter  of  David  Bosweli  of  Kinghorn,  and  his 
second,  Katherine  Nisbet. 

Though  we  frequently  find  him  in  the  money  market  borrowing  from  Hew  Halcro,  James 
Baikie,  and  others,  he  does  not  seem  to  have  been  impecunious,  for,  when  his  eldest  daughter 
married,  her  tocher  good  was  10,000  merks.  X  Indeed,  we  find  him  lending  as  well  as  borrow- 
ing, so  that  we  must  regard  him  as  a  speculator  on  **  'Change." 

His  son,  Patrick,  who  succeeded  him,  left  three  daughters,  Marjorie,  Mary,  and  Margaret, 
the  "airis"  referred  to  in  the  Valuation  Roll.  Marjorie  married  William,  son  of  Alexander 
Douglas  of  Spynie ;  Mary  married  William  Monteith  of  Towquoy,§  and  sold,  1670,  for  7000 
merks,  her  share  of  E^gilshay  to  her  brother-in-law ;  Margaret,  the  third  daughter,  died 
unmarried,  1679,  and  Marjorie's  husband  became  Douglas  of  Egilshay. 

♦  ShetUod  County  Families,  F.  J.  Grant,  W.S.        t  Pet.  Rent,  Doo.  36. 
t  Reg.  Sh.  Ct.  Books,  4th  Aug.  1641. 

§  In  1668,  Robert  Stewart  "  off  Ethav  "  sold  Towquoy  to  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound  for  8000 
merks,  and,  in  1670,  A.  B.  sold  to  Wm.  Monteith. 


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244  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

"  When  Episcopacy  was  restored  in  1606,  Alexander  Douf^laR,  minister  at  Elgin,  was  made 
Bishop  of  Moray,  and  held  the  See  for  seventeen  years.  He  conveyed  the  lands  of  Spynie,  as 
well  fts  Morriston  and  Burgh  Briggs,  to  his  son,  Alexander  Douglas,  retaining  for  himself  and 
his  successors  the  precinct  round  the  palace."  * 

In  1662,  **A  Commission  was  granted  by  John,  Earl  of  Middleton,  His  Majestie's  Com- 
missioner for  the  Kingdcmi  of  .Scotland  ;  William,  Duke  of  Hamilton  ;  William,  Earl  of 
Morton.;  and  Sir  Andrew  Ramsay  of  Abbotshall,  Knight,  Provost  of  Edinburgh,  to  Alexander 
Douglas  of  Spynie,t  to  be  their  Factor  and  ('hamberlane  and  Bailzie  of  the  Earldom  of 
Orkney,  Lordship  of  Zetland,  and  udal  lands  thereof,"  with  instructions  **  to  prosecute  and 
follow  forth  all  actions  of  reduction  of  Vassals,  Infeftments  of  the  said  Earldom,  Lordship  and 
udal  Lands,  and  uyr  wayes  to  quarrell  and  impugn  the  samyne  as  accords."!  His  chief  aim 
-was  to  feudalise  all  the  udal  lands  in  the  earldom. 

Douglas  came  to  Orkney,  and,  as  the  representative  of  Lord  Morton,  took  up  his  abode  in 
the  Palace  of  Birsay.  But,  riding  on  his  commission  and  taking  advantage  of  the  non-resi- 
dence of  Bishop  Sydserff,  he  also  seized  the  Earl's  Palace  in  Kirkwall  ;  and  one  of  the  first 
cares  of  Bishop  Honyman  when  he  came  north  in  1664  was  to  prosecute  Douglas  of  Sjiynie 
and  Patrick  Blair  for  possession  of  his  Palace.  Alexander  Douglas  died  when  Provost  of 
Banff,  in  1669,S  and,  as  has  been  seen,  his  son  William  l)ecame  Douglas  of  Egilshay  in  1679. 
About  the  same  time  the  Rpynie  estate  was  sold  to  James  Brodie  of  Wliitehall,  a  cadet  of  the 
family  of  Brodie  of  Brwlie. 

Sir  Alexander  was  the  next  Douglas  of  Egilshay,  to  be  followed  by  another  William.  The 
provision  made  by  the  latter  for  the  widow  of  the  former  shows  the  reciuirements  of  a  dowager 
of  good  position  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century.  "  6th  Feb.,  William  Douglas  of 
Egilshay,  etc.,  for  as  much  as  Dame  Janet  Scot,  Relict  of  Sir  Alexander  Douglas  of  Egilshay, 
has  assigned  to  me,  William  Dougla.s  of  Egilshay,  a  yearly  jointure  of  1000  merks  for  16  years, 
commencing  from  this  present  year,  1725,  binds  myself  to  pay  to  the  said  Janet  Scot,  or  her 
order,  at  the  House  of  Egilshay,  yearly,  the  sum  of  100  merks,  with  six  Lis})unds  good  and 
sufficient  white  wool  for  the  said  s])ace  of  16  years,  at  W^hitsunday,  and  to  commence  this  year, 
172.%  also  to  provide  the  said  Janet  Scot  and  her  Servants  in  sufficient  bed,  board,  and 
maintenance  at  the  house  of  Egilshay  suitable  to  her  degree  and  quality  as  the  relict  of  the 
said  Sir  Alexander  Douglas  of  Egilshay,  with  the  service  of  spinning  in  the  Isle  of  Egilshay, 
after  former  custom,  when  recjuired,  for  the  space  above  mentioned,  under  penalty  of  500  merks. 
Witnesses  at  Manor  house  of  Egilshay,  Robert  Douglas,  my  Brother  ;  Mr  Andrew  Graham, 
Student  of  Divinity  at  Orkney  ;  and  Hary  Miller,  Writer,  Stromness,  Writer  of  this  Deed." 

A  tradition  exists  that  a  Miss  Douglas  of  Egilshay,  having  been  pursued  by  some  of 
Cromwell's  soldiers,  escaped  into  Tankerness  House,  and  young  Baikie,  getting  her  into  a  boat 
at  the  foot  of  the  garden,  carried  her  safely  home  to  her  own  island.  Of  course,  the  two  were 
married,  and  lived  happily  ever  afterwards  ;  thus  Egilshay  fell  to  the  Baikies.  The  doorway 
at  the  foot  of  the  garden  by  which  the  fugitives  escaped  still  exists,  a  silent  witness  of  the 
truth  of  the  story. 

But  the  fact  is  that  in  1737,  nearly  a  century  after  Cromwell's  death,  James  Baikie  of 
Tankerness  married  Janet,  "  only  child  procreate  betwixt  William  Douglas  of  Egilshay  and 
Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Thomas  Traill  of  Holland,"  and  thus  the  island  passed  from  Douglas 
to  Baikie. 

In  1701,  the  Chancellor's  house  became  the  property  of  James  Stewart,  Commissary  of 
Orkney,  and  a  few  years  later  it  passed  to  Stewart  of  Burray.  While  Sir  James  was  in  exile 
on  the  Continent,  it  fell  into  such  a  ruinous  condition  as  to  call  forth  a  remonstrance  in  the 

*  Shaw's  History  of  Moray.        f  Grandson  of  the  Bishop  of  Moray.        :|:  H.  L,        §  Shaw. 


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*  ?  r 


/ 


y 


(f  'i  i  ■" 


.3 


Arms  of  Smyth  of  Braco. 


Arms  of  Bishop  Graham. 


Arms  of  Robert  MoDteith  of  Egilshay  and  Katherine  Nisbet, 
his  second  wife. 


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BROAD  STREET.  245 

fonn  of  a  petition  from  the  master  of  the  Grammar  School  to  the  Dean-of-Guild,  which 
"  Humbly  sheweth  that  there's  an  old  House  at  the  head  of  Broad  Street,  Belonging  to  the 
Honourable  Sir  James  Stewart  of  Burrow,  which  is  void  and  without  any  possessor,*  Because 
of  its  insufficiency  and  almost  ruinous  condition  ;  also,  by  all  probability,  the  west  Side  of  it 
will  shortly  fall  if  not  Speedily  taken  care  of  ;  Which  house  stands  close  by  the  School  Wind, 
where  the  Youth  Committed  to  my  Care  Do  frequently  Expose  themselves  to  Great  Danger, 
as  having  occasion  often  to  Pass  and  Repass  that  way  ;  Wherefore,  to  prevent  any  accident  to 
the  said  youth,  that  it  may  be  hastily  taken  Care  of,  is  required  and  Intreated  by,  Sir,  Your 
Most  humble  Servt.,  (Signed)  George  Reid." 

The  Dean-of-Guild  api)ointed  four  competent  tradesmen  to  idew  the  house  in  question 
and  to  reiK)rt  upon  oath.  They  declared  the  building  to  be  dangerous,  so  the  Dean  wrote  to 
Lady  Stewart  on  the  subject,  and  it  was  repaired. 

On  Burray's  death,  the  Earl  of  Galloway,  as  next-of-kin,  became  owner  of  the  Chancellor's 
manse,  and  his  son.  Lord  Gairlies,  in  1781,  sold  it  to  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness. 

Separated  from  the  house  of  the  Chancellor  by  a  jmssage  too  narrow  for  the  modern 
purposes  of  street  traffic,  with  its  north  gable  to  the  Broad  Street,  is  the  house  known  as  the 
"  Chaplain's  Chambers  " — the  chaplain  being  doubtless  the  clergyman  in  charge  of  the  Chapel 
of  St.  Mary,  in  the  Laverock. 

In  1(517,  it  was  occupied  by  Mr  Patrick  Inglis,  minister  of  Kirkwall,  Prebendary  of  St. 
John,  Prebendary  of  St.  Peter,  and  therefore  master  of  the  Grammar  School.  \Mien,  in  1634, 
the  Act  against  plural  offices  among  the  clergy  was  jmssed,  Mr  Inglis  gave  up  the  school  and 
the  emoluments  of  St.  Peter's  stouk,  which  constituted  the  teacher's  stipend. 

Mr  Inglis'  glebe,  as  seen  from  the  windows  of  the  Earl's  Palace,  was  a  Naboth's  vineyard 
in  the  eyes  of  Bishop  Graham.  "  The  Room  of  Glatness,  in  the  said  parish  of  St.  Ola,  which 
lies  upon  the  south  shore  of  the  Oyse,  and  pays  yearly  upwards  of  twenty  bolls  of  malt,  was 
the  minister's  glebe.  But  the  said  Bishop  Graham,  looking  out  at  his  window  one  day  when 
Mr  Patrick  Inglis,  minister  of  Kirkwall,  and  other  ministers  were  with  him,  and  viewing 
Glatness,  said — *  Mr  Patrick,  I  must  have  that  Room  of  Glatness  from  you,  and  1  will 
give  you  the  R(3om  of  Corse  for  it,  because  it  lieth  in  mine  eye ' ;  whereunto  Mr  Patrick, 
whispering  the  Bishop  in  the  ear,  said — *  Deil  pick  out  that  greedy  eye,  my  Lord,  that  would 
take  Gladness  from  me  and  give  me  Cross.^  But  the  Bishop  accordingly  did  it,  and  after  that, 
thinking  the  Room  of  Corse  too  good  yet,  took  that  away  and  gave  the  Room  of  Quoy  Banks, 
which  is  not  in  value  above  £8  sterling  yearly,  and  sometimes  let  below  it.  Thus  the  Bishops 
served  their  brethern."  t 

After  a  ministry  of  over  twenty  years  in  Kirkwall,  Mr  Inglis  was  translated  to  Birsay 
and  Harray  in  1635.  He  died  in  1639.  His  free  gear,  as  returned  by  Helen  Blaikietoun,  his 
widow,  amounted  to  £1123  12s. 

Shortly  after  the  death  of  Mr  Inglis,  the  Chai)lain's  Chamber  became  the  property  of 
Arthur  Baikie,  and,  except  for  a  very  short  interval,  when  it  belonged  to  Mr  Riddoch,  it  has 
remained  in  the  hands  of  Baikies  ever  since.  In  the  Valuation  Roll  of  1714  it  is  entered 
thus  : — "  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  hath  an  house  under  sclait  roof  on  the  east  side  of 
the  street,!  possest  as  a  meeting-house,  at  the  head  of  the  Broad  Street." 

In  the  titles  of  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound,  13th  July  1659,  this  place  is  carefully 
described  : — "  All  and  Haill  the  five  chalmers  called  the  Chaplain's  Chambers,  boundit  and 
having  the  close  entrie  to  the  Sub-Dean's  Lodging  on  the  east,  the  Sub-Dean's  Lodging  on 
the  south,  and  the  remanent  Chaplain's  Chambers  pertaining  to  George  Inglis  on  the  north.'* 
And  it  is  this  remanent  portion  which  was  the  Meeting  House. 

*  Tenant.  t  M'Farlane  MSS.,  Advocates'  Library.  X  Now  Victoria  Street. 


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246  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Throughout  Scotland,  from  1560  to  1688,  episcopacy  and  presbyterianism  had  a  fierce 
struggle  for  supremacy.    The  history  of  this  Holy  War  may  be  summarised  :— 

I.  From  1560  to  1572  presbytery  prevailed.  The  first  General  Assembly  met  in  Edin- 
burgh, 20th  December  1560. 

II.  1573-90  episcopacy  ruled.  This  was  the  time  of  the  "  Tulchan  Bishops."  "  Mr 
Patrick  Constan,  who  looked  to  have  been  preferred  to  that  bishopric*  by  the  moyen  of  the 
Clerk  of  the  Register,  shooting  short,  preached  against  the  course.  In  his  sermon  he  made 
three  sorts  of  Bishops — "  My  Lord  Bishop,"  **  My  Lord's  Bishop,"  and  "  the  Lord's  Bishop." 
•*  My  Lord  Bishop,"  said  he,  "  was  in  time  of  Papistrie  ;  My  Lord's  Bishop  is  now,  when  my 
Lord  getteth  the  benefice  and  the  bishop  serveth  for  a  portion  out  of  the  benefice  to  make  my 
lord's  title  sure ;  the  Lord's  Bishop  is  the  true  minister  of  the  Gospell." 

My  lord's  bishop  was  the  "  Tulchan  bishop."  "  A  Tulchan  is  a  calve's  skinne  stuffed  with 
straw  to  cans  the  kow  give  milke.  For  the  Lords  got  the  benefices,  and  presented  suche  a 
man  as  would  be  contente  with  the  least  commoditie,  and  sett  the  rest  in  fewes,  tacks  and 
pensions,  to  them  and  theirs."  t 

III.  1502-1606,  presbyterianism  had  its  turn,  and  the  Scottish  parishes  were  grouped 
into  Presbyteries  and  Synods. 

IV.  1606-38,  another  turn  of  the  wheel  brought  about  the  re-consecration  of  bishops. 

It  was,  of  course,  impossible  that  men  could  really  change  their  minds  with  every  change 
of  church  government,  but  it  became  dangerous  to  express  opinions  derogatory  of  the  new 
prelates. 

Thomas  Hogg,  minister  of  Dysart,  had  spoken  against  the  Five  Articles  of  Perth,  and 
was  summoned  to  appear  before  the  General  Assembly  in  1619.  But  the  Five  Articles  would 
have  been  allowed  to  take  care  of  themselves  had  the  reverend  gentleman  treated  his  ecclesi- 
astical superiors  with  due  respect.  The  head  and  front  of  his  offending  was  plainly  put  by 
Spottiswood,  Archbishop  of  St.  Andrews  : — "  *  Mr  Thomas,  it  cannot  content  you  to  declame 
vehementlie  in  your  sermons  against  the  estate  and  course  of  bishops,  but  also  ye  pray 
ordinarlie  efter  sermon  against  belligods  and  hirlings.'  Mr  Thomas  answered  that  he  prayed 
ordinarlie  against  belligods  and  hirlings  in  the  ministrie,  conforme  to  the  common  prayer 
conteaned  in  the  Book  of  Discipline.  The  Archbishop  replied— '  When  ye  pray  against 
belligods  and  hirlings,  the  people  applyes  that  prayer  to  us  that  are  bishops.'  The  minister 
retorted  that  he  could  not  be  answeirable  for  the  people's  application  of  his  prayers,  saying 
that  if  the  people  had  failed  to  the  bishops,  he  had  noe  reason  to  trouble  himself  for  the 
alledgit  offence  of  the  people.  Then  the  Archbishope,  in  great  indignation,  said — *  In  short 
space  that  Book  of  Discipline  sail  be  discharged,  and  ministers  sail  be  tyed  to  sett  prayers, 
and  sail  not  be  suffered  to  conceive  prayers  as  they  please  themselves.' " 

Law,  formerly  Bishop  of  Orkney,  then  Archbishop  of  Glasgow,  conferred  privately  with 
the  stubborn  Hogg,  but  without  avail,  and  *'  the  clerk  redd  the  sentence,  which  was  that  they 
had  suspendid  the  said  Mr  Thomas  from  his  ministrie,  and  had  ordered  him  to  goe  to  Orkney 
within  the  space  of  fourtie  days  thereafter,  to  be  confeyned  there  during  the  King's  pleasure 
and  will." 

Banishment  to  Orkney  was  no  doubt  bad  enough,  but  was  a  light  punishment  compared 
with  what  had  been  threatened  by  his  judge  in  course  of  the  trial : — "  Mr  Thomas,  take  heid 
to  yourself,  for  ye  perill  your  craige."  { 

Another  clerical  exile  in  Orkney,  the  Rev.  Wm.  Fowler,  minister  of  Hawick,  gives 
expression  to  his  sad  musings  :— 

♦  St  Andrews.  t  Calderwood,  iii.  206.  t  Calderwood,  vii.  366. 


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BROAD  STREET.  247 

"Sonet  in  Orkney. 

"  Upon  the  utmost  corners  of  the  world, 

And  on  the  borderis  of  this  massive  round, 

Quhftire  fate  and  fortune  hither  hes  me  hurled, 

I  doe  deplore  m^  grieffs  upon  this  ground ; 

And,  seeing  rormg  seis  from  rokis  rebound, 

By  ebbs  and  streams  of  contraire  routing  tyds, 

Ajnd  Phoebus'  chariots  in  their  ways  ly  drowned — 

Quha  equallye  now  night  and  day  devyds — 

I  call  to  mind  the  storms  my  thoughts  abyds, 

Which  ever  wax  and  never  dois  decress ; 

For  nights  of  dole,  dayis  joyes  aye  ever  hyds. 

And  in  their  vayle  doith  all  my  will  suppress  : 
So  this  I  see,  quhair  ever  I  remove, 
I  change  hot  seis,  hot  never  change  my  love."  * 

This  gentleman  was  afterwards  Secretary  to  Queen  Anne,  wife  of  James  VI.,  and  accom- 
panied the  Royal  household  to  England,  where  he  died,  1612.  His  experience  of  Orkney  was 
in  1687. 

In  1608,  Margaret  Hartsyde  was  tried  in  Edinburgh  for  stealing  the  Queen's  +  jewels. 
"  It  was  a  cause  celebre,  the  real  reason  of  the  prosecution  being,  according  to  the  gossip  of  the 
Court,  that  she  had  revealed  some  of  the  Queen's  secrets  to  the  King,  '  wch/  says  Balfour,  '  a 
wysse  chalmbermaide  wold  not  baue  done.'  Although  defended  by  the  best  men  at  the  bar, 
the  maid  was  found  guilty,  declared  infamous,  and  banished  to  the  Orkneys."  % 

On  the  24th  of  March  1663,  Alexander  Smith,  A.M.,  minister  of  Colvend,  Dumfriesshire, 
was,  along  with  others,  cited  before  the  Privy  Oouncil.  Smith  promised  to  give  up  his  manse 
and  parish  and  to  desist  from  preaching.  By  this  the  good  parscm  must  have  meant  that  he 
would  not  preach  in  public.  But  having  taken  a  house  at  Leith,  he  gave  ''  At  Homes "  for 
evangelistic  purposes.  For  this  he  was  condemned  as  a  conventicler,  his  crime  being  aggra- 
vated by  want  of  respect  to  Archbishop  Sharp,  a  member  of  the  Privy  Council,  and  was  "  led 
by  the  town  hangman  to  the  Thieves'  Hole,  to  be  confined  by  irons  on  his  feet  and  legs,  where 
he  continued  three  days,  until  the  kindness  of  the  citizens  made  the  bishops  ashamed.  He 
was  next  removed  to  another  room,  where  he  fell  sick,  and  was  in  danger  of  his  life." 

Shortly  after  this,  Mr  Smith  was  banished  by  the  Court  of  High  Commission  to  an  unin- 
habited island  in  Shetland,  where  barley  was  his  only  food,  and  wreck  and  sea-weed  his  only 
fuel.  He  was  brought  back  in  1668,  and  committed  to  the  Tolbooth  of  Edinburgh.  After 
fourteen  days'  confinement,  he  was  transferred  to  Orkney,  and,  to  mark  the  heinousness  of  his 
offence.  North  Ronaldshay  was  selected  as  his  place  of  exile.  The  order  for  bis  banishment, 
dated  at  Edinburgh,  24th  July  1668,  runs  :— "  The  Lords  of  His  Miyest/s  Privey  Council  doe 
hereby  give  and  command  ye,  David  Richardson,  skipper  of  the  ship  called  the  James,  of 
Brunt  Hand,  to  receive  the  person  of  Master  Alexander  Smith,  prisoner  in  the  tolbuith  of 
Bruntiland,  as  soon  as  he  shall  be  offered  be  the  Magistrates  yrof,  and  ordains  him,  in  his  sd. 
ship,  to  transport  the  sd.  Master  Alexander  Smith  to  Orkney,  and  to  delyver  him  to  Shrff. 
Blair,  who  is  hereby  ordered  to  send  him  to  ye  Island  of  Nortbronandshaw.  And  ordains 
and  commands  the  said  Mr  Alexander  Smith  to  confyne  and  keep  himself  within  ye  sd. 
island,  as  he  will  be  answerable." 

The  sheriff  gave  the  skipper  a  receipt  for  the  minister,  and  forwarded  the  reverend 
gentleman  to  North  Ronaldshay.  On  his  arrival,  Mr  Smith  wrote  a  long  and  interesting 
letter  to  Sherift  Blair,  but  he  expressed  no  penitence.    On  the  contrary  :— "  The  poor  inhabi- 

•  Favoured  by  Rev.  D.  W.  Yair,  of  Firth.  t  Anne  of  Denmark,  consort  of  James  VI. 

X  Omond's  Lives  of  the  Lord  Advocates,  i.  101. 


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248  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

tants,  so  many  as  I  have  yet  seen,  have  received  me  with  much  joy  (as  I  apprehend).  I 
intend,  if  the  Lord  will,  to  preach  Christ  to  them  next  Lord's  day  without  the  least  mixture 
of  any  thing  that  may  smell  of  sedition  or  rebellion.  If  I  be  further  troubled  for  it,  I  resolve 
to  suffer  further  wt.  meekness  and  patience.''  Mr  Smith  afterwards  returned  to  Edinburgh, 
and  died  in  his  house  on  the  Castlehill,  21st  February  1673. 

V.  1638-1660,  General  Assemblies  annually  held,  though  Colonel  Liburn— "Freeborn 
John"— with  a  file  of  musketeers,  dissolved  the  meeting  of  1663. 

VI.  1660-1688,  episcopacy  restored  by  the  King's  prerogative— persecution  ;  400  ministers 
ejected,  1663. 

VII.  From  1688  to  the  present  time,  presbyterianiam  has  been  the  established  form  of 
church  government  in  Scotland. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  struggle,  Kirkwall  adhered  to  its  own  peculiar  episcopacy, 
which  was  simply  presbyterianism  with  a  bishop  as  minister  of  the  first  charge  in  St.  Magnus 
and  as  moderator  of  the  Presbytery  and  Synod.  The  church  government  was  in  the  hands  of 
the  elders,  and  the  communion  was  observed  by  the  congregation  seated  at  tables. 

But  when  episcopacy  was  abolished  by  law,  and  presbyterianism  was  by  law  established, 
there  was  trouble  in  Kirkwall.  Mr  Wilson,  minister  of  the  first  charge,  wag  in  1694  deprived 
of  his  office  by  the  Privy  Council.  In  1713,  he  took  advantage  of  Mr  Baikie's  illness  and  the 
beadle's  good  nature  to  intrude  himself  into  the  pulpit  of  St.  Magnus,  from  which  he  was 
ignominiously  ousted  by  the  invalid  minister  and  his  wife.  Mr  Wilson,  however,  found  that 
he  had  many  adherents  in  the  town,  and  for  a  time  he  conducted  an  episcopal  service  in  his 
house  in  Bridge  Street.  But  the  civil  authority,  which  a  few  years  previously  had  prohibited 
presbyterian  meetings  even  on  the  hillsides,  now  declared  episcopal  services  contraband, 
though  held  in  private  houses,  and  Mr  Wilson  left  Kirkwall.  The  zealous  Orcadian  anti- 
presbyterians,  however,  were  not  to  be  coerced  into  attending  the  Cathedral.  Though  the 
form  of  worship  there  remained  unaltered,  there  was  a  spice  of  oppression  in  the  compulsory 
change  of  name,  and  this  was  resented  and  resisted  by  a  pugnacious  minority.  Prominent 
among  the  episcopalian  rebels  was  Robert  Baikie ;  hence,  when  Mr  Wilson  went  south,  and 
the  old  mansion  of  the  Irvines  of  Sabay  was  no  longer  available  for  conventicles,  the  Laird  of 
Tankerness  placed  the  chaplain's  chambers  at  the  disposal  of  the  persecuted  remnant. 

Whether  or  not  he  drew  a  rent  from  the  Meeting  House,  we  have  no  means  of  knowing, 
but  we  do  know  that  the  town  levied  cess  on  the  congregation,  valuing  their  sanctuary  at 
fourteen  pounds  yearly.  Not  only  was  Baikie  determined  to  do  his  own  worshipping  in  his 
own  way,  but,  in  the  true  spirit  of  Christian  sectarianism,  he  spoiled  the  Egyptians  when  he 
could,  and  carried  the  war  into  the  enemy's  camp.  Thus,  when  an  absurd  charge  of  sheep- 
stealing  was  trumped  up  against  Mr  Sands,  minister  of  Birsay  and  Harray,  Mr  Baikie  had 
something  to  say  in  the  matter.  Sitting  at  Birsay,  three  Justices— Craigie,  Honyman,  and 
Ritchie — had  investigated  the  case  and  acquitted  the  clergyman.  But  Sands  had  been  loud 
in  his  opposition  to  the  episcopal  conventiclers,  so  Mr  Baikie,  with  two  friends — Mudie  of 
Melsetter  and  Patrick  Grajme,  yr.  of  Grajmeshall— sat  in  Kirkwall  on  Mr  Sands,  and  con- 
demned him  unheard.  The  result  was  that  the  minister  of  Birsay  had  to  go  south  to  be 
whitewashed,  when  the  charge  was  seen  to  be  so  utterly  nimious,  that  the  Lord  Advocate, 
Sir  David  Dalrymple,  would  not  allow  it  to  go  to  trial. 

The  little  congregation  in  the  Meeting  House,  in  spite  of  all  efforts  of  Session  and 
Presbytery  to  suppress  it,  continued,  if  not  to  thrive,  at  least  to  exist  till  after  the  Jacobite 
rising  of  1715.  In  these  days  of  religious  toleration,  when  it  is  conceded  that  the  Christian 
pilgrim  may  choose  his  church  as  freely  as  an  ordinary  traveller  chooses  his  hotel,  we  would 
be  moved  to  indignation  by  the  treatment  which  the  episcopalians  received  from  the  presby- 


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BROAD   STREET.  24& 

terians  in  Kirkwall,  but  for  the  want  of  common  sense  evinced  by  the  leaders  of  the  persecuted 
party.  Far  from  the  centre  of  executive  control,  and  patronised  by  the  most  influential  of  the 
local  gentry,  the  rulers  of  the  little  Anglican  synagogue  became  offensively  aggressive.  Mr 
Lyon,  the  episcopal  clergyman,  absurdly  insisted  that  he  had  a  right  to  examine  the  Grammar 
School,  a  claim  which  no  other  dissenting  minister  ever  put  forward. 

Again,  he  was  so  ill-advised  as  to  make  in  the  loyal  burgh  a  very  fussy  demonstration  in 
favour  of  the  Pretender.  "  On  Michaelmas  Day,  1715,  not  a  month  after  the  Earl  of  Mar  had 
set  up  his  standard  in  Aberdeenshire,  after  divine  service  and  sermon  by  Mr  Lyon  in  the 
meeting-house  at  Kirkwall,  he  proceeded  with  several  gentlemen  to  the  Market  Cross,  where 
Mr  Drummond  read  a  paper  proclaiming  the  Pretender  King.  Mr  Spence,  who  was  present 
with  Mr  Lyon,  both  of  them  in  their  preaching  gowns,  joined  them  in  drinking  the  health  of 
King  James  VIIL"* 

This  proclamation,  with  the  health-drinking,  was  all  the  part  Kirkwall  played  in  the 
"  Fifteen,*'  and  the  worst  results  were  the  temporary  incarceration  of  a  few  of  the  episcopal 
rebels  in  the  tolbooth  of  Kirkwall.  The  Provost — David  Traill  of  Sabay — and  his  son  were 
evidently  disaffected  persons,  and  the  rest  of  the  Council,  perhaps  fearing  further  inquiries^ 
tried  to  bring  them  .to  reason,  if  not  to  loyalty.  We  have  seen  that  Sabay's  town  house  was  at 
the  east  comer  of  the  Ramparts,  but  at  the  time  under  consideration,  he  found  it  pleasanter 
to  reside  in  the  country,  though  it  was  in  the  depth  of  winter. 

l.Sth  February  1716,  **The  Magistrates  and  Councill,  considering  That,  because  of  the  present 
Troublesome  times,  there  was  some  time  agoe  a  letter  write  by  the  Clerk  at  appoyntment  of  Two  of 
the  Baillies,  and  sent  to  the  Provost,  Desiring  he  might  have  come  in  to  Town  and  Keeped  Councill 
to  Consert  anent  the  Safity  of  the  Oovemment  and  Burgh.  To  which  letter  the  Provost  returned  an 
answer,  which  being  now  Kead  in  Councill,  is  not  thought  satisf^'ing.  Wherefore  they  have  instantly 
wrote  ane  oyr  Letter,  which  is  subscrived  by  the  Magistrates  present,  and  to  be  sent  express  to  the 
Provost,  Desiring  againe  he  may  come  in.  Call  ane  Councill,  and  take  Joynt  measures  with  the 
Magistrates  and  Council  annent  the  Affaires  of  the  Burgh  with  respect  to  the  times.  As  also  ane  oyr 
Letter  to  the  Provost  his  sone,  Desirine  that  he,  being  one  of  the  Town's  Captains,  may  come  in 
before  Thursday  next,  when  there  is  to  be  a  Generall  Randeyvous  of  the  whole  Inhabitants.  And 
they  appoynt  the  Clerk  to  Issue  furth  a  proclamation,  to  be  published  by  Tuck  of  Drumb  through  the 
Towne  this  afternoon.  Advertising  the  haill  inhabitants  within  Burgh,  without  exception,  to  have 
their  whole  airmes,  as  well  Gunns  as  Swords,  well  Drest  and  in  Good  Order,  to  be  sighted  at  & 
Generall  Randezvous,  by  the  Rexive.  Town  Captons,  Lewetennents,  and  Eusignes — The  up- the- way 
Companie  upon  the  Broad  Sands,  and  the  Downe-the-Gate  Companie  upon  the  Aire  of  the  Burgh — 
about  Two  of  the  Clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  Magristrates  and  Council  appoynt  David  Strang, 
Andrew  Liddell,  and  Robert  Morrison,  three  of  their  number,  to  go  through  the  haill  ToM'ue  this, 
afternoon,  and  inquire  where  there's  any  Powder  and  Lead  to  be  Sold,  and  to  make  a  note  thereof, 
and  to  Discharge  any  person  who  has  any  powder  or  Lead  to  putt  away  or  Dispose  upon  any  yrof 
without  express  order  from  the  Magistrates,  But  that  the  same  be  all  keeped  for  the  use  of  the 
Inhabitants  in  Defence  of  the  Government  and  Burgh.*' 

Three  months  later  the  Council  demonstrated  the  thorough  loyalty  of  Kirkwall  in 
characteristic  style  : — "  Nine  pound  eight  shillings  Scots  "  was  the  cost  of  "  the  Brandie^ 
shugar,  etc.,  furnished  at  the  Cross  upon  the  King's  Birth  Day,  the  Twenty-eight  of  May." 

Mr  Lyon  continued  in  Kirkwall  till  1717,  and  his  treatment  by  the  Presbytery  furnishes 
an  excellent  example  of  how  Christians  love  one  another  when  they  belong  to  different  sections 
of  the  Church.  He  has  left  one  contribution  to  the  literature  of  the  county — a  letter  in  reply 
to  an  attack  made  upon  him  by  Mr  Sands,  minister  of  Birsay.  The  personalities  are  now  the 
only  interesting  points  in  the  controversy.  From  them  we  learn  the  relative  sizes  of  the 
belligerents.  Mr  Lyon  writes : — "  It  might  have  satisfied  your  Modesty  once  to  have 
expressed  your  judgment  of  my  ill-furnished  Head  in  a  public  Company  without  inserting  it 

*  Craven,  Episcopal  Church  in  Orkney. 

2k 


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250  KIKKWALL    IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

here  in  your  letter.  Only  I  must  tell  you  I  have  made  it  my  business  to  fill  the  upper  story 
of  wi.y  tali,  high  haildmg  (you'll  remember  your  own  words)  with  solid  and  rational  principles. 
You'll  |)erhaps  be  obliged  to  turn  souldier,  but  your  height  may  be  will  not  till  the  guage." 

^Ir  Lyon's  widow  long  survived  the  troubles  of  the  Meeting  House,  and  it  is  {ileasant  to 
find  that  in  straitened  circumstances  she  was  not  entirely  forgotten  by  those  who  had  formerly 
adhered  to  her  husband. 

A  letter  addressed  to  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards  begins  : — 

*•  Dundee,  26th  Dec.  1754. 
**  Dear  Sir,- -I'm  favoured  with  yours  of  the  14th  of  Novr.  last,  and,  according  to  your  desire,  did 
pay  Mrs  L^'on  in  this  place  five  (Tuiiieas.  Her  receipt  therefore  is  herein  inclos^,  &  which  sum  was 
paid  back  to  me  by  your  Cuaine,  Mr  Jno.  Young,  at  £4linr.  upon  the  first  advice.  The  old  Gentle- 
woman seemed  very  glad  at  the  receipt  of  the  money,  and  nuide  ample  acknowledgements,  aa  it  came 
in  a  most  seasonable  time,  her  circumstances  being  now  far  short  of  what  possibly  you  have  seen. — 
Your  atfect.  Cusine  k  Most  Obedt.  Servt.,  (Signed)        AKCHifiALD  Young."* 

The  theatrical  Jacobite  display  at  the  Market  Cross  gave  trouble  to  the  best  friends  of 
the  e])iscopal  cause  in  Orkney.  It  did  more.  It  played  directly  into  the  hands  of  the  presby- 
terian  party,  in  so  far  that  no  man  could  leave  Kirkwall  for  any  part  of  Britain  without  a 
certificate  of  loyalty  from  the  Session  or  Presbytery.  In  1716  certificates  of  loyalty  were 
granted  to  George  Gibson,  David  Strang,  and  George  Richan  "  on  account  of  the  rebellious 
practices  of  some."  In  May  1717,  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  who,  in  the  troubles  between 
Cathedral  and  Meeting  House,  had  "damned"  the  presbyterian  ministers  as  a  "pack  of 
knaves,"  learning  that  representations  had  been  made  to  the  Government  of  his  having  been 
"accessory  to  the  late  rebellious  practices  in  this  place,"  asked  and  received,  on  his  going 
south,  a  certificate  of  loyalty  from  the  pliable  Session.t  Thus,  what  i)ersecution  could  not 
accomplish,  self-interest  did,  and  episcopacy  in  Kirkwall,  having  become  inconvenient  to  its 
adherents,  died  a  natural  death. 

The  story  of  the  Meeting  House  troubles  has  recently  been  told  with  an  episcopal  bias, 
natural  in  the  circumstances.!  No  minister  of  the  Established  Church  of  Scotland  would 
feel  any  pride  in  narrating  the  presbyterian  side  of  that  story.  § 

Bishop  Reid's  College  Buildings  remained  church  proi)erty  far  into  protestant  times,  and 
they  were  secularised  in  separate  portions.  Patrick  Smythe  of  Braco  acquired  from  his 
father-in-law.  Bishop  Graham,  the  detached  school -house  at  the  back,  w^hich  in  his  time 
contained  "  two  chalmers  and  a  stable."  The  stable,  which  had  been  a  third  "  chalmer,"  was 
converted  to  suit  Air  Smythe's  convenience.  Patrick  Smythe  was  in  his  day  the  busiest  man 
in  Orkney.  He  was  Commissary  or  Sheriff  of  the  Bishopric.  Smythe  and  the  Bishop  were 
always  on  the  best  of  terms,  and  Catherine  Graham's  husband  got  a  good  slice  of  the  church 
lands.  "  Within  the  parochin  of  Holme  there  is  fewed  yrof  be  ye  lait  bischop  to  Patrick 
Smith  of  Bracoe  the  lands  of  Boescaille,  Holmes,  Quoybarnets,  Lamon,  Viggal,  Maill,  and 
certain  lands  in  Vailley,  Graves,  Ackerbister,  Westerbister,  Hensbister  be  west  and  be  east, 
with  ye  mylne  of  Holme  for  payment  of  the  dewtie  conteynit  in  his  charter,  qlk  conforme  to 
ye  rentall." 

Concerning  this  the  Bishop  says  :— "  Manye  hes  coft  bits  of  vdillands  frae  the  vdelleris  ; 
hes  sold  bits  of  vdillands  to  be  holden  of  the  Bishoi)e  of  Orkney  and  his  successors  ;  not  one 

*  Favoured  b>  Mr  T.  W.  Ranken.  t  See  anltj  p.  211.  X  Craven's  Episcopal  Church  in  Orkney. 
§  Churches,  like  dogs,  have  their  day,  and,  with  true  sectarian  instinct,  the  stronger  will  try  to 
worry  the  weaker.  Dissent  is  now  donnnant  in  Kirkwall,  and  why  should  its  history  1)e  devoid  of  a 
**  Meeting  House  "  episode  ?  Not  long  ago  the  civic  rulers,  assuming  a  right  of  proprietorship  in  the 
Cathedral,  tried,  fortunately  without  success,  to  evict  the  E.C.  Young  Men's  Guild  from  their  meeting 
place,  the  south  transept  chapel  of  the  Cathedral. 


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BKOAD  STREET.  251 

of  yame  reserved  or  entered  for  great  reasones  moving  me,  only  Patrick  Smith  lang  agoe  is 
both  entered  by  me  and  confirmed  be  the  King  be  my  advyse  ;  gude  reasones  moving  both 
him  and  me  yrto/'  ♦ 

Besides  the  above  lands,  Smythe  had  " a  tak  of  the  viccarage  of  Strom nesa "  ;  "a  tak  for 
some  teynds  of  the  prebendarie  of  St.  John " ;  and  the  Bishop  says — "  He  disponed  the 
vicarage  of  Sandwicke  to  a  son  of  mine." 

He  lived  at  Holm  in  the  House  of  Meall,  now  Grsemeshall.  Concerning  the  old  house, 
A.  M.  S.  Graeme,  Esq.  of  Graemeshall,  writes  : — "  There  were  three  dates  on  the  house,  viz., 
on  door,  1626  ;  on  fireplace  in  wing,  1659,  which  was  perhaps  the  date  of  Patrick  Graeme's 
marriage  ;  and  on  dormer  window  of  kitchen,  1644.'' 

With  the  utmost  respect  for  Mr  Graeme's  opinion,  it  is  here  suggested  that  the  date,  1626, 
probably  marks  an  addition  by  Smythe  to  the  old  house  of  Meall ;  1644,  evidently  an 
extension  by  Smythe  ;  and  1659,  improvements  by  Patrick  Graham  of  Rothiesholm,  who* 
bought  the  Holm  property  from  Smythe's  son,  and  who  named  the  house  Grahau) shall. 

After  the  death  of  Catherine  Graham,  Patrick  Smythe  married  Margaret  Stewart, 
daughter  of  Henry  Stewart,  J?Tother  of  Jjord  Ochiltree,  and  ^dpii^  of  Hew  Halcro  of  that  ilk. 
Lord  Ochiltree's  connection  with  Orkney  was  not  a  happy  one.  He  farmed  the  rents  of  the 
earldom,  but  for  his  oppressions  and  for  tampering  with  the  weights  he  was  deprived  and 
sentenced  to  a  long  term  of  imprisonment,  t 

Smythe's  third  wife  was  Isobel,  daughter  of  Thomas  Anderson  in  Lundie.  A  stone 
erected  to  the  memory  of  two  daughters  of  this  marriage  stands  in  the  south  nave  aisle  of  the 
Cathedral. 

Smythe  had  twenty-three  legitimate  children  and  at  least  three  natural  daughters.  One 
of  the  latter  married  Harie  Prince,  and  her  son,  Magnus,  became  Lord  Provost  of  Edinburgh. 

Braco  was  drowned  in  the  Stronsay  Firth,  and  his  death  is  thus  recorded  in  the  Family 
Bible  :— "The  28  of  April  1665,  it  pleased  the  Lord  to  remove  my  Father,  Patrick  Smythe^ 
being  Saturday,  coming  from  Stronsay  in  the  night  tyme."  The  body  was  recovered  and 
buried  in  Papa  Stronsay,  where  the  spot  is  still  known  as  Sir  Patrick's  grave. 

His  eldest  son  was  killed  fighting  on  the  Royalist  side  at  Marston  Moor,  1644.  His 
second  son  also  predeceased  him.  His  third  son,  Patrick,  who  succeeded  him,  sold  the  Holm 
property  to  Patrick  Graham  of  Rothiesholm,  1665,  and  bought  his  uncle's  estate  of  Methven. 
In  a  rhyming  letter,  inviting  Patrick  Smythe  to  come  to  Brebuster,  3rd  November  1665, 
occurs  this  couplet  :— 

"  As  for  vour  sood  uncle,  leave  him  not  in  bands, 
For  well  hath  he  paid  for  your  beves  and  your  lands." 

This  letter,  still  preserved  in  Methven  Castle,  is  endorsed :— "  Sheriff  Blair's  Letter  from 
Brabuster  when  I  sold  my  lands  in  Orkney,  1665." 

Braco's  letters  to  his  son,  Patrick,  so  far  as  they  go,  form  an  excellent  history  of  Kirkwall 
under  the  Commonwealth,  and  show  how  circumspectly  the  gentlemen  of  Orkney  required  to 
walk  in  the  presence  of  Cromwell's  Governors. 

From  Huip  in  Stronsay,  28th  May  1650,  he  writes  to  his  son,  "  Patrik  Smythe,  Merchant 
Surges  of  edinburgh  "  : — 

*'  Qubat  husie  trouble  and  vexation  since  your  parting  fra  this,  God  knowes,  and  quhat  burden  I 
have  had  of  these  pepiU,  and  quhat  charges  they  have  put  me  to  this  tyme  bygone,  I  am  nocht  abll  to 
ezpres,  for  I  wes  extremely  prest  be  them  both  for  monev  and  rictuall,  as  I  sail  shaw  at  melting.  I 
resauvit  onlv  fra  you  (since  our  parting)  ane  letter,  ^uhairin  ye  shaw  me  in  quat  condition  maters 
stood,  and  therefor  desyn't  me  to  cum  south  wt.  all  dihgence  for  taking  cours  wt.  the  same,  quhilk  I 

♦  Pet.  Rent.  t  Pund.  Proc.,  ii.  7. 


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252  KIRKWALL    IN    THE   OUKNUYS. 

could  on  no  wayis  gett  don  albeit  it  bead  stand  inc  on  my  Lyff,  in  respect  these  pepill  Keepit  sick  ane 
strick  ey  oner  nic  and  all  my  wa3'iH,  that  I  durst  attempt  nothing  but  quhat  wes  for  them,  as  ye  mnst 
haue  perseauit  quhen  ye  was  heir.  I  resauit  a  very  kynd  letter  fra  Louteuent  geuerall  l^esly,  quhairin 
hie  showes  mo  the  daylie  corispondence  that  is  betwixt  him  and  you.  8on,  I  intreat  you,  as  ye  Loue 
me  and  your  auin  weill,  have  ane  speciall  cair  to  Intertein  that  fauour  and  Loue  that  ye  have  of  the 
Loutenent  generall  and  with  my  goodbrother,  the  generall  Quartermaster,  *  for  I  know  they  are  both 
kynd  to  ther  freinds.  Upon  the  19  off  this  moneth  ther  cam  ane  T-.etter  fra  Loutenent  generall  Lesly 
to  the  gentilmen  in  this  cuntry,  shauing  off  the  agriement  betwix  his  Matie.  and  the  comissioners,  and 
that  his  Matie.  wes  cum  home,  and,  notwithstanding  of  all,  he  desyrit  that  we  should  be  active  in 
api*ehending  all  officars,  that  wes  in  this  cuntrey  or  did  cum  to  it,  that  Mer  followers  of  James  Graeme, 
and  that  we  suld  rid  the  cuntrey  of  all  these  pepell  and  not  suffer  them  to  have  any  siting  heir,  as  also 
he  desyrit  that  all  gentilmen  in  this  countrey  sould  cum  south  against  the  10  day  of  Junii  and  copeir. 
l>efort  the  parliament  or  ther  comitties.  Conform  to  the  quhilk  letter,  we  mett  ail  in  Kirkwall  ye  22 
of  this  instant,  and  took  the  beat  cours  we  were  able  for  cleiring  the  cuntrey  of  these  pepill  and  apre- 
hendiu|^  of  sick  as  lay  in  our  pouer  to  do  ;  and  efter  resuming  at  our  meiting,  we  fand  it  wes  a  thing 
unposAible  for  us  all  to  go  south  and  so  lay  the  heall  cunti-ey  opin  to  the  invasion  of  piritis,  foran 
shippis,  and  the  pepell  belonging  to  James  Graeme,  quha  wes  on  our  costis  and  daily  cnming  ashoir  in 
ane  part  or  other  in  the  cuntrey  and  plundering  our  scheip  and  bestiall.  So  we  resoluit  and  did  chose 
out  8  off  the  ablest  men  in  the  cuntrey  to  go  south  for  themselves  and  as  comissioners  for  the  rest  of 
the  cuntrey  ;  amongst  the  quhilk  number  they  mead  chuise  of  me  for  ane.  I  houp  we  sail  all  do  our 
best  to  keip  the  tyme  so  neir  as  possibly  we  may,  for,  God- willing,  I  intend  to  taik  my  journey  on 
Tuesday  the  4  off  Junii,  and  giff  his  matie.  and  the  parliament  or  ther  comittis  be  at  aberdein  (as  I 
heir  they  ar),  I  intend  to  goe  ther  derekly  and  atend  ther  pleasour  thair.  So,  giff  ye  find  the  court  to 
be  ther  ye  wilbe  pleasit  to  meit  me  so  shun  as  possibly  ye  can  efter  the  said  tent  day  of  Junii,  for  I 
desyr  very  much  to  speak  wt.  you  befor  I  meit  wt.  anie  ther  that,  after  advysement,  I  may  taik  the 
best  and  farest  cours  quhat  to  do  ;  the  relation  of  all  uther  particullai-s  I  continue  till  meiting,  quhilk 
I  l>eseik  the  Lord  may  be  happy  to  his  glory  and  our  auin  salvation,  and  so  I  remain,— Your  Louing 
father,  (Signed)        P.  Smtthk  off  Braco. 

*'  Houip,  in  Stronsay,  ye  28  Maij  1650. 

*'  ffor  my  Louing  son,  Patrik  Sraythe,  Merchant  Burses  of  edinburgh,  or  in  his  absince,  for  m^' 
louing  Cussing,  Jhon  Smythe,  merchant  Surges  of  the  said  Bruch." 

From  instructions  sent  to  his  son  in  a  postscrij^  to  this  letter,  we  discover  that  Smythe 
had  money  on  loan  in  the  south  : — 

"  Louing  Sone,  this  berar,  Mr  Alexr.  Wood,  cam  fra  this  so  suddenly  that  I  could  nocht  haive 
tyme  to  taik  cours  with  him  for  the  moneth  and  half  monethis  maintinancc  grantit  for  his  Ma'ties' 
Interteinment ;  therefor  1  intreat  you  ather  to  pay  to  him  or  alloue  him  off  the  money  hie  restis  you 
BO  much,  as  I  am  deu  to  him  for  my  self,  my  nevoy,  and  halcro,  and  Mr  Patrik  Gra;me  for  the  said 
monethis  maintinance  as  foUowcs  :■ — for  myself,  for  holme,  16  lib.  iis.  ;  for  St  Olau,  ISs  6d  ;  for  Waes, 
2s  ;  for  Stronsay,  18  lib.  158  ;  Inde,  26  lib.  Is  6d  ;  for  halcro,  for  his  Landis  in  South  Ronaldsay,  16 
lib  ;  Georg  Smyth,  for  his  Lands  in  holme,  228  4d  ;  for  Westray,  10  lib.  168  6d  ;  for  his  wo<lsett  ther, 
10  lib.  6d  ;  for  Stromness,  8s  ;  Inde,  22  lib.  7s  4d  ;  Mr  Patrik  Graeme,  for  holme,  4  lib.  98  8d  ;  for  St, 
Olau,  3  lib.  13«  6d  ;  for  Stronsay,  23  lib.  168  2d  ;  for  Shapanshau,l98  4d  ;  Inde,  32  lib.  18s  8d.  Suma. 
of  all  that  3'e  ar  to  pay  or  allou  to  him  is  107  lib.  7s  and  6d,  quhilk  money  ye  will  pay  or  allou  to  him 
as  I  have  wreattin,  and  taik  his  resait  thereon  for  euerie  one  off  us,  &  Lett  the  resait  bear  for  our  pro- 
portion of  all  the  particular  Landis,  and  Lett  the  tickit  bear  that  he,  hauing  pouer  and  Comission  fra 
Sir  Darell  Carmichell  for  uplifting  the  same,  discharges  us  thereoff ;  and  so  shun  as  ye  haue  endit  wt. 
him  and  gottin  thir  resaitis,  send  them  all  to  me  wt.  the  first  occasion.  I  haue  no  border  to  wreat  to 
you  at  the  present  than  this  trustie  berar  can  shau,  nather  mynds  to  wreat  any  thing  to  yen  till  I  hear 
fra  you,  quuilk  I  expeckit  Long  since.  So,  hauing  no  forder  at  present  hot  my  fijue  i-emembrit  to 
your  self  &  all  freindis,  &  specially  to  the  general  quarter  master,  the  major,  good  balgoun  &  Gorthie, 
— I  remain.  Your  Louing  father,  (Signed)        P.  Smythe  of  Braco. 

"  Burray,  the  8  Junii  1651. 

**  ffor  my  Louing  Sone,  Patrik  Smythe,  These." 

In  another  letter,  he  wishes  to  know  how  the  cat  is  likely  to  jump  ;  plainly  doubtful  of 
the  i)ermanency  of  the  Commonwealth,  he  yet  dares  not  show  Royalist  leanings  : — 

"  Louing  Sone,  hauing  the  occasion  of  this  berar,  I  have  thocht  good  to  wreat  to  you,  albeit  I 
have  Leitel  purpoise  except  quhat  I  wreat  formerly  to  you  before  the  23  off  October  with  Benhom  his 

*  Stewart,  a  brother  of  Braco's  second  wife. 


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BROAD   STREET.  253 

man,  Wm.  Sinclair  (quba  promisit  to  seik  for  you  and  delyuer  my  Letter  to  yourself),  quhilk  wee  that 
ye  would  try  diligently  qunat  wes  the  cours  off  the  Kingdome  for  ther  saftie  in  this  tyme  of  so  grait 
exegenoe,  and  wreat  the  same  to  me.  I  desyrit  you  to  advyce  wc.  my  twa  noble  reall  freindis, 
Balgoun  and  the  generall  quartermaster,  houe  all  went,  and  that  ye  wold  be  ther  advyce  do  for  me  and 
the  rest  of  our  f reindis  heir  for  our  saftie  as  the  rest  of  the  Kingdome  did  :  the  freindis  I  wreat  off  is 
the  Laird  off  Mains,*  Mr  Patrik  and  Jhou  Grterae,  Georg  Smyth  of  Rapness,  hew  halcro  off  that  ilk, 
George  drumond  off  Blair,  and  Patrik  Monteith  of  egilshau  ;  so  I  am  confidant  that  ye  will  do  what 
ye  can  heirin  be  ther  advyce,  qulia  I  knon  will  giff  it  you  really'  for  our  weall,  for  1  desyre  nather  to 
be  first  nor  last  in  taking  cours  ;  foi-der,  ye  will  try  quhair  ther  is  apeirance  of  best  mercat  for  our 
comis  this  yeir,  and  to  quhat  place  they  ma3'  be  saniest  transportit,  for,  godwiling,  I  will  haue  all  my 
cornis  redy  against  the  nrst  off  March  to  be  sent  to  the  markit,  and  shall  do  my  best  to  haue  Uessellis 
fraughtit  for  transporting  theroff  as  yon  a<luertise  me.  I  haue  all  my  last  yeiris  comis  and  this  yeiris, 
both  to  be  sent  to  the  markit,  for  I  got  Leit«ll  or  nane  sold  the  Last  yeir  ;  try  giff  the  coledg  of  St. 
Andreus,  or  any  other  coledg,  is  to  meit  this  yeir,  and  in  quhat  saftie  youthis  will  be  in  ther,  ft 
advertise  me,  for  I  wold  glaidly  haue  my  two  neuoyis  and  sone  to  the  colledg,  giff  they  can  go  and 
cum  in  saftie  and  remain  safly  ther  ;  advertise  quhat  ye  haue  gottin  or  expeckis  fra  my  tenentis  besyd 
you,  and  in  quhat  cais  they  ar,  and  quhat  monethly  maintinance  or  cess  is  imposit  on  them  this  tyme 
bygone.  So,  hauing  no  forder  for  the  present  bot  my  heartly  loue  remembrit  to  good,  kynd,  reall 
liaTgoun  k  all  his  famalie,  to  Gorthie  and  his  Lady  (and  advertise  me  houe  they  ar  and  houe  all  gois 
wt.  them),  and  to  my  reall  brother,  generall  quartermaster,  and  his  Lady,  and  your  self,  and  all  utner 
freindis, — I  remain,  your  louing  father,  (Signed)        P.  Smythe  of  Braco. 

"  Meall,  the  6  Nouraber  1651. 

**  the  hors  ye  sent  me  wt.  my  man  is  Leitel  wurth  ;  my  auin  I  Lent  you  wes  far  better.  So,  giff 
ye  haue  occasion  to  meit  wt.  the  Major,  ye  will  remeber.  me  hartily  to  him,  and  desyer  him  ather  to 
send  me  my  auin  hors,  or  ane  ather  as  good  as  he  promisit  to  me  be  his  Last  Letter  to  me. 

''  ffor  my  Louing  Sone,  Patrik  Smythe,  merchant  in  edinburgh,  to  be  found  at  Scon,  Gorthie,  or 
Dunkell,  These." 

Smythe  shows  Jiow  Cromweirs  soldiers  were  raised  and  supported  in  Kirkwall : — 

"  Fra  James  Gori,  in  Toftenes,  ye  17  day,  that  he  rested  for  his  part  of  the  outputting  ane  sojer, 
ye  Last  year,  6  lb. " 

**  For  ane  troupe  horse  to  put  furth  in  July  1650,  and  for  ane  man  to  ryd  on  him,  and  for  all 
charges  yrto,  besyd  ane  hat,  sword,  butt-hois,  and  spurs  giffin  to  him  be  my  sone,  besyd  quhat  I 
resaivit  fra  the  tenentis  for  the  man." 

**  Mair,  for  3  swordis,  2  beltis,  2  musketis,  and  ane  pick  to  my  3  sojers,  25  lib." 

**  Mair  Lent  to  the  tenentis  of  Myrside  and  Wastward,  ye  20  July,  to  put  out  John  Shearer,  yr 
sojer,  for  money  and  clothes,  20  lib. " 

"  Mair,  Lent  to  them  the  23  day,  to  pay  yr  uther  tua  sojers,  according  as  they  agreit  wt.  them, 
28  lib.  I7s6d." 

Writing  from  Meall,  18th  December  1652,  he  says  :  — 

"  Loueing  Sone,  yours  of  the  deat  from  edinburgh,  no  day,  I  resaiuit  fra  Loutenant-Colenell 
blair  the  16  off  this  Instant,  upon  the  way  betwix  my  house  and  Kirkwall,  so  that  I  head  no  tyme  to 
stay  to  speik  wt.  him  to  Learn  any  of  his  occurrences  be  resoun  off  the  coldness  off  the  wether,  that 
did  so  troubll  me  that  I  was  glaidcl  to  gett  away,  f 

"  This  berar,  egilshau,:!:  is  chargit  for  the  payment  to  Mr  Jhon  dischingtoun  off  the  dewties  off  the 
Landis  off  St.  Peter's  Prebendrie,  Quhairoff  hie  hes  ane  feucharter  and  Infeftmeut  off  that  Land,  both 
off  the  King  and  the  beueficit  persone,  and  soe  can  no  wayis,  in  equitie  and  Justice,  be  Lyable  to  pay 
any  moir  for  the  sd.  Landis  nor  is  continit  in  his  feuchartour  :  this  is  done  be  his  and  our  malicious 
enimies  in  this  cuntrey,  and  Mr  Jhon  dischingtoun,  schoolmaster,  his  name  only  usit  herein  as  an 
seiser :  he  will  schau  you  all  the  particullars  himself,  and  in  quhat  stait  and  condition  the  mater 
standis  in.  I  earnestly  intreat  you,  my  bairn,  to  do  for  him  herein  as  ye  would  do  for  me,  both  be 
your  self  and  any  quhome  ye  haue  any  power,  that  he  may  nocht  be  wrongit  herein,  but  that  all 
ordinarie  meinis  be  usit  for  his  good  :  for  he  hes  been  and  is  to  me  as  kynd  and  deutifull  ane  son  as 
any  man  can  have ;  quhairfor  I  knou  I  neid  intreat  you  no  moir  on  his  behalf." 

*  William  Stewart. 

t  Plainly,  Colonel  Blair  had  just  come  across  the  ferry  to  Holm,  and  Smythe  was  riding  from 
Kirkwall  out  to  Meall.  '*  Sir  Hugh's  seat,"  near  the  top  of  the  hill  at  Gaitnip,  is  probably  named 
from  Sir  Hew  Halcro,  Canon  of  the  Cathedral  Church  of  Orkney.  Here  he  would  rest  on  his  way  to 
Kirkwall,  and  have  South  Ronaldshay  still  in  view. 

X  Patrick  Monteith  married  to  Smythe's  third  daughter,  Marion. 


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254  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

In  this  letter  he  refers  to  large  sums  of  money  out  at  loan  in  the  south,  but  with  all  his 
wealth  he  could  not  bear  useless  outlay  : — 

"  I  entreat  you,  that  ye  suffer  nocht  my  nevoy,  Mr  Patrick,  and  your  brother,  Mr  Robert,  to 
want  quhat  they  stand  necessarly  in  neid  off,  but  giff  them  no  money,  for  treuly  money,  as  ye  wreat, 
is  hard  to  be  head,  and  specially  be  me,  quha  can  nocht  do  my  auin  affairs,  hot  must  trust  them  to 
nthers." 

Smythe's  business  led  him  into  numerous  law-suits  : — 

**  Louing  sone,  yours,  deatit  from  chanvie,  the  30  May,  I  resaivit.  As  for  anser  therto,  I  am 
sorry  that  my  Lord  Siforth,  his  friendis,  sould  use  you  so  unkyndly,  seeing  we  haue  deseruit  better  at 
ther  handis  ;  hot,  since  it  can  be  no  better,  do  quhat  ye  can  Lyally  agamst  them  for  procuring  our 
awin,  and  stry  ve  quhat  ye  can  to  mak  the  chargis  Licht  on  them,  for  I  know  the  panis  will  be  yours. 
Giff  the  Laird  of  plusoardin*  be  your  friend,  as  you  wreat  hie  is,  I  doubt  nocht  Dot  he  will  preueall 
wt.  the  rest  to  do  you  reasone.  As  for  georg  dunbar,  I  am  glaid  he  is  weill  and  cum  home  and  abll  to 
satisfie  for  himself,  quhilk  I  lone  best.  80  my  advyce  is,  giff  he  will  pay  you  quhat  is  deu,  that  ye 
deall  with  no  uther  therin  ;  and  as  for  that  Jewell,  no  man,  godwiling,  sail  haue  it  fra  me  till  your 
forder  order  and  aduertisement  houe  you  and  hie  ar  setlit :  as  for  (^uha  perseus  for  that  800  lib. 
aj^inst  my  Lord  Morton,  knoue  it  is  perseuit  in  your  unkll  Jhon  his  name,  James  Baikie,  David 
f  inkead,  and  myn,  ijuhairin  I  intreat  you  to  be  assistant  to  your  pouer,  as  James  Baikie  sail  wreat  to 
you,  for  we  haue  al  intrustit  him  wt.  the  doing  theroff,  and  hes  desvrit  him  to  taik  your  advyce  and 
assistance  therin,  quhilk  1  am  conOdent  ye  wiU  do.  We  haue  head  ane  meiting  heir,  quhair  we  haue 
choein  Robert  Stewart  off  Bruch  our  comissioner  to  go  to  edinburgh  and  seik  ane  order  for  recktifieing 
of  the  valuation  of  our  rentis,  that  it  may  be  valuit  as  uther  shyres  in  the  nation  ar,  quhilk,  giff  it  be, 
it  wilbe  fand  that  our  present  sesse  wilbe  as  meikle  on  euerie  100  lib.  as  any  other  shy  re  in  the  nation 
is,  and  ther  cannot  justly  any  moir  cesse  be  Ltvid  on  this  shyr  till  that  be  done  ;  also,  we  haue  giffen 
him  comission  to  cause  ansur  to  the  Sumondis  at  Sir  Androu  dick  his  Listance  against  us  to  mak  the 
arestit  soodis  belonging  to  my  Lord  Morton  in  our  handis  furthcumand  to  him,  and  we  haue  desyrit 
him  to  deall  with  the  Judflris  that  both  that  sumondis  and  all  uthers  conseming  those  rentis,  quhairin 
the  uassells  and  tenentis  ther  Litrest  may  be  referit  to  the  Judges  heir  to  be  decemitt,  in  respect  ther 
is  so  many  that  hes  Intrest  therin,  and  being  so  remot  fra  edinburgh,  and  many  of  them  aluayis 
nnabll  that  they  can  nocht  cum  to  edinburgh,  and  so  ther  salbe  decreet  giffen  against  us  for  nocht 
compeirand,  quhilk  is  nowayis  possibll  for  us  to  do  for  the  reasone  forsaid  and  many  uthers  quhilk 
may  be  shauen  ;  both  thir,  we  expeck,  will  not  be  den3it  to  him  giff  they  be  richtly  gon  about, 
quhairfor  I  intreat  you  that  if  brugch  cum  to  you  and  desyre  your  adv3'ce  and  concurrence  heirin,  that 
ye  will  giff  it  to  him  as  ane  freind  to  your  cuntry  and  me,  and  your  freindis  in  speciall,  quha  ar  much 
concemit  in  both  ;  and  giff  he  cum  nocht  for  Laik  off  the  payment  off  his  channs  be  sum  off  our  cuntiy 
men  quha  taiks  nocht  grait  thocht  quhat  becum  off  the  cuntry  or  them  selms,  I  intreat  vou  to  deaU 
quhat  ye  can  for  me,  Mr  Patrick,  Breknes,  and  egelshau  for  getting  ane  ordour  for  recktineingoff  our 
ualuation,  as  also  that  ye  will  cans  ansur  for  us  against  Mr  androu  dick  his  sumondis.  We  salbe 
willing  that  he  get  decreit  against  us  for  quhat  was  in  our  handis  the  tyme  off  the  arestment,  quhilk  as 
yit  we  can  nocht  declare  till  we  try  our  tenentis  quhat  they  haue  payit,  and  quhen  they  payit  it." 

This  letter  is  sent  south  by  NicoU  Aitkin,  "  Scipper,"  and  under  the  care  of  Aitkin  went 
Braco's  daughter  to  consult  a  physician  : — 

'*  Ye  will  deall  wt.  some  honest  skillfull  man  quha  hes  knouledge  therin  to  do  hir  good,  and 
quhat  ye  deburse  heirin,  or  for  any  uther  hir  charges,  I  sail  thankfully  aloue  the  same  to  you  at  copt. 
Giff  it  pleas  the  Lord  be  this  Instrument  to  grant  hir  helth  and  cuir  off  hir  seiknes,  ye  will  heast  hir 
back  to  me  again,  for  she  hes  head  the  heall  charg  of  my  house  this  Long  tyme  bygone,  and  I  fear  noa 
in  hir  absence  it  be  nocht  so  richtly  done  as  neid  requyris. 

"  Meall,  18  Junii  1653. 

'*  I  haue  giffen  your  sister  barbra  sum  Leitell  mony,  as  much  as  I  think  will  bear  hir  chargis  till 
she  cum  to  you,  and  sum  moir.  When  she  is  redy  to  return,  giff  that  be  s^nt,  ye  will  be  pleasit  to 
furnish  hir  wt.  as  meikll  as  wilbe  hir  charges  in  returning,  hot  giff  hir  no  moir  hot  quhat  she  stands  in 
neid  off  for  that  use." 

Barbara  got  better  and  married  John  Gibson,  minister  of  Holm,  who  had  been  tutor  to 
some  of  her  brothers  ;  became  a  widow,  1681,  and  died,  1690,  aged  59. 

♦Sir-Cteorge  Mackenzie  of  Tarbat. 


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BROAD  STREET.  255 

In  1653,  Patrick's  third  wife,  Isobel  Anderson,  was  with  him,  but  apparently  was  no 
housekeeper,  or,  what  is  more  probable,  was,  according  to  Smythe's  ideas,  extravagant. 
Writing  to  his  daughter-in-law,  he  says  :— 

"  I  have  resaivit  ane  Letter  fra  my  Cussing,  John  Smyth,  merchant  in  edinburjgh,  quhairin  he 
shaues  me  that  your  husband  may  expect  at  his  return  to  gett  ane  call  to  be  ane  on  the  Judges  off 
edinburgh,  quhairoff  I  am  sorry,  bot  wilbe  much  moir  greuit  giff,  in  thir  dangerous  and  troublesome 
tymes,  hie  sail  accept  off  any  publick  charge,  quhairfor  I  earnestly  intreat  you  to  deal  seriously  wt. 
him  that  hie  do  not  accept  of  any  sick  charge,  bot  only  that  he  striue  to  Line  quyetly  and  frugally  till 
hie  sie  houe  the  world  gois,  and  go  about  his  auin  and  my  affaires  diligently,  nocht  omiting  any 
friends'  affairs  intrustit  to  him,  for  aperrantly  or  it  be  Long  ther  wilbe  som  reuolution.  The  Lord 
God  turn  all  to  his  glory  and  our  comfort  in  cryst  Jesus.  Deir  dochter,  seik  the  Lord  wt.  all  your 
heart,  and  intreit  your  husband  to  do  the  Lyk.  Stryue  both  to  Leiue  frugally,  deutifully,  and 
louingly  to  all  your  freindis  and  nechbouris,  and  this  will  make  you  louit  both  of  God  and  all  good 
men.  So,  hauing  no  f order  for  the  present  bot  my  Inteir  loue  to  your  self  and  ail  friendis,  I  continu, 
much  houorit  dochter,  your  Jjouing  and  deutifuU  father  to  his  pouer,  P.  Shythe  off  Braco. 

*<  Meall,  the  22  Junii  1653. 

"  ffor  my  much  honorit  and  Louing  dochter,  Anna  Keith,  spous  to  Patrick  Smythe,  younger  off 
Braco." 

"  Louing  Sone, — Since  my  Last  to  yon,  tua  of  yours  I  haue  resaivit,  ane  theroff  be  your  Unkll 
James,  deatit  the  3  November  1653,  the  uther  be  young  Garsay,  deatit  the  12  decber.  Last,  quhairin 
ye  shau  me  very  Lei  tell  concerning  my  particullars,  only  sumquhat  off  that  action  of  downes  and 
others  against  me.  Do  ye  your  best  therein  and  comit  the  event  to  the  Lord  almichtie,  quha  hes  the 
heartis  of  men  in  his  handis,  and  I  houp  in  his  mercie,  as  I  am  frie  off  any  off  ther  'goods,  so  hie  will 
Liberat  me  off  the  prejudice  theroff.  I  marvell  that  ye  haue  nocht  acquient  me  quhat  ye  haue  don  in 
the  rest  of  my  affairs  comited  (under  god)  to  you,  and  specially — 1,  anent  the  tack  off  my  teindis  be 
the  toun  of  edinburgh  ;  2,  my  action  against  Malcolm  Sinclair  for  ane  discharge  to  me  ;  3,  anent  the 
reneuing  the  Sumondis  acainst  halcro  and  His  curators-,  and  sending  the  same  to  me  to  be  execut,  seeing 
I  sent  the  former  sumondis  within  my  letter  to  you  wt.  ane  soger  heir,  callit  david  thomsone,  off  the 
Inglish  reemont,  quha  wes  going  south  with  Letters  fra  his  captain,  Soking.  Heast  to  send  me 
that  ob.  of  fyve  hnndreth  mark  giffen  be  Oliver  Linay.  I  wold  haue  it  that  thereb}^  I  micht  cleir  my 
bills  of  exchange.  I  suspeck  your  seasine  of  my  landis  heir  be  nocht  deuly  don,  for  it  is  only  giffen  at 
the  house  of  Meall  for  all  the  Landis,  and  the  Landis  off  ducro  and  cornquoy  is  nocht  includit  in  that 
chartor  of  Union.  Quhen  ye  haue  advysit  this,  giff  it  be  any  defect,  send  back  your  chartour  giffen 
be  me  to  you,  and  1  sail  caus  taik  seasing  thereon  deuly  on  euerie  ground  of  the  Land  quhair  it  is 
neidfuU.  Lett  me  heir  fra  you  houe  all  your  and  my  affairs  gois,  that  I  may  know  tHeroff,  for  I  sallbe 
glaid  to  heir  that  all  go  richt ;  and  that  is  all  I  can  do,  being  auld,  weak,  and  infirm  with  seikness. 
So,  hauing  no  forder  for  the  present  bot  my  hartly  Loue  and  deutie  to  your  self,  your  bedfelou,  my 
dochter,  and  to  my  sone  and  2  dochters,  to  good  reall  Balgonn,  his  sone  and  Lady,  to  good  Gorthie 
and  his  worthie  Lady,  and  to  all  freindis,  I  continu.  Your  Louing  father,        P.  Smtthe  of  Braco. 

"  Meall,  the  8  Februar  1654." 

Smythe  was  not  personally  popular  in  Orkney.  He  carried  things  with  a  high  hand. 
Writing  to  his  brother,  Mr  Robert  Smythe,  12th  October  1656,  he  says  : — 

"  That  Captione  whereof  ye  wreat  is  not  as  yet  come  to  my  hand,  but  I  doe  expect  it  daly  ;  if  he 
and  I  agi'ie  not  (wch.  we  never  will  until  I  execute  it),  I  shall  obey  you  in  the  punctual  execution, 
and  shall  send  him  to  the  next  secure  prisone,  wch.  is  dingwall,  ther  being  non  in  this  shyre.  The 
governour  \a  my  great  good  freind,  and  the  people  bier  are  Laboring  his  being  removed  ;  the  trewth  is  he  is 
ane  able,  just  man,  and  most  fit  for  the  government  heir,  and  therefor  some  would  have  him  removed  ; 
the  great  reason  is  he  will  nather  drink,  swear,  nor  Lie,  nor  countenance  ther  vitious  deportment,  nor 
plot  ye  subversione  of  honest  men." 

Cromweirs  governors  sat  on  the  bench  in  Kirkwall,  but  never  alone  : — 

"  As  for  yt.  order  of  the  Counceirs,  it  can  not  be  execuit  against  Mr  Patrick  untill  ther  be  a 
Justice  of  peace  to  sit  with  ye  Governour,  and  I  am  unwilling  to  detect  his  folly,  wherunto  his  wyff, 
not  his  eenious,  has  forced  him.  The  sumonds  against  Mr  Patrick  Grahame  must  be  filled  up,  to  maik 
arrested  goods  furth  coming,  viz.,  the  four  chalders  bear  and  thrie  barralls  butter  yearly,  payable  be 
him  as  his  few  dewty  of  Rothiesholm,  also  for  so  much  yearly  payable  be  my  brother  John  for  his  few 
dewtie  of  hoop  and  stryinie,  wherewith  Mr  Patrick  is  Intromitter  as  curator  to  the  sd.  John. 

**  As  for  halcro,  it  shall  be  sent — I  mean  his  reduction — altho'  ther  be  no  sutch  decreet  in  record 


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256  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

but  is  maid  up  by  the  shirreff  and  gairsay,  who  died  wonderfully  ill  with  a  chopine  stoup  in  his 
hands. 

"As  for  my  brother  Andrew,  if  you  knew  his  carradge  to  me,  you  woold  blush,  wherwith  I  will 
not  acquant  you  until!  I  shaw  you  his  hand  for  all  ;  this  bearrer  is  suire,  which  makes  me  inlardc^e  ; 
he  is  tne  govemour's  post  sent  south  wth.  depositions  to  the  Councell  of  those  skippers  and  pairtners 
that  wer  takene  wh.  yor  brother  Andrew,  who  are  Lyk  to  get  some  satisfactione." 

The  following  letter  shows  how  his  personal  friends  leaned  upon  him  in  business : — 

**  Verie  worthy  And  assnrit  frind,  my  hairtlie  comendationes  being  remebrit.  to  yor  selffe,  bed- 
fellow, and  all  the  baimes,  plais  uott  that  I  am  heir  in  Ronnaldsay,  and  haid  of  intentione  to  hawe 
sein  yow  at  maell,  but  I  protest  to  god  I  cannot  haue  ane  hors  heir  that  ar  abell  to  Karie  me  downe 
to  brughe  ;  Therfoir  I  will  requyst  you  to  com  heir  and  spaik  wt.  me,  becaus  ye  ar  mor  abell  then  I 
am,  and  may  esier  transport  yor  selfife  be  Land,  or  sie  and  tak  ane  hors  out  of  Burray,  for  I  suspect 
je  will  gaitt  non  in  this  lie  abell  to  Karie  you,  for  my  intentione  was  to  haue  sien  the  Laird  of  maines 
m  the  by  going  if  I  haid  comd  to  you.  Sr.,  if  ye  be  remembrit,  1  spake  to  yon  concerning  yt.  purpois 
qlk  is  betwixt  the  Laird  of  maines  and  me,  qlk  I  am  content  yt  ye  sail  cutt  and  carue  in  yt  erand  as 
ye  think  expedient,  according  to  my  former  wordis,  for  the  Laircl  is  a  man  I  will  be  very  Loth  to  be 
hard  wt.,  all  dewtie  being  doone,  for  his  man  Laboures  sume  of  the  Land  of  it,  and  him  selffe  aittes  the 
crais  and  mowes  the  middowes  of  it,  and  I  pay  the  tynd  of  it ;  ye  may  knaw  quhat  benefite  I  haue 
laid  of  it  this  lang  tyme ;  ye  may  spaik  to  the  Laird  if  he  be  to  keip  the  former  rackening  of  yt. 
|Mce  of  land  in  Sandwick  ;  I  will  by  and  attour  give  him  the  kyndnes  of  thre  farthing  Land  Lying 
in  Lythes,  rige  and  runrige  wt.  his  awin  Lands,  qlk  be  tyme  he  may  make  the  samyn  as  profitabell  as 
so  much  Uthill ;  if  nought,  doe  therin  as  ye  think  expedient,  I  stand  content  yrwith  ;  forther,  I  will 
requyst  you  to  Lduik  out  ane  decreit  and  horning  againes  Edward  of  Flauis,  Nicoll  of  Staine,  and 
Allister  clark,  qlk  I  think  I  gaue  to  my  sonne,  and  if  ye  haue  them  not,  they  ar  in  Wm.  Spence  his 
hands,  for  I  haue  wraittin  to  him  for  to  Louik  if  he  hes  them,  and  to  dely ver  them  to  yor  boy,  and  if 
they  cane  be  gottin,  send  them  to  me,  for  I  haue  adoe  wt.  the  samyn.  Lykwayes,  ye  sail  nott,  yt  I 
am  informed  that  yt  band  of  cautionrie  was  onformallie  wraittin  be  androw  Strang,  qlk  was  ane  stope 
in  raising  the  suspentione,  yr  foir  I  will  requyst  yow,  as  my  trust  is  in  yow,  to  helpe  and  supporte  me 
in  defending  the  minor's  condition,  seeing  I  am  not  so  abell  for  it  as  I  wold,  and  desyres  you  to  wraitt 
to  Andrew  EUies  to  draw  up  ane  band  of  Cautionrie  for  Thomas  Berstoune  and  William  Scollay,  and 
Laue  blank  for  the  cautioner's  name,  yt.  I  may  haue  the  samyn  to  send  south  wt.  this  passage,  and 
qt.  ye  give  him  for  the  samyn  I  sail  content  you  bak  againe  at  mitting.  Lykwayes,  I  requyst  yon  to 
iiOaik  out  Mr  Walter's*  discharge,  and  bring  with  you.  So  hauing  no  f order,  bott  expecting  yor  coming, 
— I  rest  and  sail  remaen,  Your  Louing  and  Assured  frind  efter  my  poner,         Halcro  of  that  ilk. 

"  Halcro,  ye  xiii.  day  of  May  16fi). 

**  To  the  verie  worthy  and  my  assurit  frind,  Patrick  Smyth  of  Braco,  thes." 


APPENDIX  TO  CHAPTER  XIV. 


Trial  for  Witchcraft  before  Sheriff  John  Dick. 

"  nth  Nov.  1629. 
**  DiTTAT,  Witch  Kendall  als.  Rtgga. 

"  Intrat  upon  Pannell,  Jonet  Rendall,  als.  Rigga,  poor  vagabond  within  the  pochin.  of  Kendall,  for 
the  abominable  supperstition  anduseing  of  the  witchraftes  underwritten. 

"  In  the  ffirst — Ye,  the  said  Jonet,  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  airt  and  pt.  of  the  abominable 
supperstition  and  supperstitious  abusing  and  disceiveing  of  the  people.  And  for  practeising  of  the 
wicked  and  devilish  poyntis  of  witchcraft  and  sorcerie  done  by  you  in  maner  at  the  tymes  and  in  the 
places  efter  speit. ,  and  in  geving  yourself  f urth  to  have  sick  craft  and  knawled^e,  Thairthrow  abuseing 
the  people  :    To  Wit,  Twentie  yeiris  since  and  mair,  ye  being  above  the  hill  of  rendall,  having  soucht 

*  Probably  Mr  W^alter  Stewart,  who  was  minister  of  South  Ronaldshay,  1696  to  1652. 


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BROAD   STREET.  267 

charitie,  and  could  not  have  it,  the  devile  appeirit  to  you,  Quhom  ye  callit  Walliman,  claid  in  quhyt 
cloathia,  with  ane  quhyt  head  and  ane  gray  beard,  And  said  to  you,  He  sould  learne  you  to  win  almisa 
be  healling  of  folk,  and  auhaaoever  sould  geve  you  ahniss  sould  be  the  better  ather  be  land  or  sea,  and 
these  yt.  geve  vow  not  almiss  sould  not  be  healled.  And  ye,  haveing  trustit  in  him  and  entering  in 
pattionn  with  him.  He  promeisit  to  you  that  quhasoever  sould  refus  you  almiss,  and  quhatever  ye 
craved  to  befall  thame  sould  befall  tharae,  and  thairefter  went  away  in  the  air  from  you,  Quhairby  ye 
practeisit  many  and  sindrie  poyntis  of  witohcr-ift  and  devilrie,  and  speciallie  the  poyntis  following^ 
Qlk  ye  cannot  deny. 

"Item,  ye  ar  Indytitt  and  accuseit  for  cuing.,  fyve  yeiris  since  or  3'rby,  To  Manss  Work  in 
Windbrek  his  wife,  and  haveing  askit  almiss  of  hir  and  she  refusand,  ye  saiil  yc  she  sould  repend  it, 

and  within  i      '  *   '  "  '  ' 

conforme  I 

reprovit  1 

it,  and  that  she  sould  ather  run  uponn  the  sea  or  then  ane  war  cast  sould  befall  hir,  Quha  being  quholl 

then,  deit  within  thrie  dayes  be  your  witchcraft  and  devilrie,  Qlk  ye  cannot  deny. 

"Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  cuing,  at  Candlemas  last  To  Edward  gray,  in  Howakow 
hous,  and  .shakin  your  blanket  at  it  neer  against  the  hous,  and  Patrick  gray  his  sone  having  cum  forth, 
and  seeing  yow,  cald  his  father,  and  fearing  your  evill,  went  to  the  bame  and  geve  yow  ane  lock  come, 
and  on  Monday  nicht  thairefter  Twa  meiris  deit,  both  at  once,  in  the  stable,  and  that  the  said  patrick 
took  sicknes  the  same  hour  he  saw  yow,  and  dwyned  thrie-quarters  of  ane  ycir  and  deit,  and  ye  being 
send  for  befoir  his  death  to  see  him.  He  being  dead  befoir,  and  haveing  laid  his  death  on  yow  how 
shone  ye  came  in,  the  cors  having  lyin  ane  guid  space  and  not  having  bled  any,  Immediatelie  bled 
mutch  bluid,  as  ane  suir  token  that  ye  wcs  the  author  of  his  death,  and  all  was  done  by  your  witchcraft 
and  devilrie,  Qlk  ye  cannot  deny. 

"  Item,  ye  are  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  cuing,  to  William  Work  in  efeday  his  house  on  Halloween, 
four  yeiris  sene  or  yrby,  and  knocking  at  his  door,  they  wold  not  let  yow  in  nor  geve  yow  lodgeing, 
Quha  depairting,  murmuring  and  miscontent,  his  wyff  pairtit  with  child  upon  the  mome  be  your 
witchcraft  and  devilrie,  qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

"  Item,  ye  are  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  that,  in  bearseed  tyme  the  last  yeire,  ye  cuing,  to  John 
Spence  in  Uppettown  his  hous,  and  the  said  John  his  wyff  being  calling  ane  caltf  to  the  grass,  ye  came  in 
and  wus  angrie  that  she  sould  have  chilled  out  the  calff  quheu  ye  com  in.  And  turning  yow  twys  about 
on  the  floor,  ye  went  out,  and  Immediatlie  the  calf,  being  ane  yeir  old,  took  seikness  and  deit  be  your 
witchcraft  and  sorcerie,  qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

"  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  that  on  Santt  thomas  evein,  four  yeiris  sene  or  yrby,  ye 
cuing,  to  William  wScott  in  Poldrite  his  hous  and  knocking  Thrie  severall  tymes  at  the  doore,  and  ane 
hour  betwixt  every  tyme,  and  ye,  not  gettin  in,  went  away  murmuring,  fhrie  dayes  efter,  the  guid 
w^-ff  becam  seik,  and  four  beastis  deit  the  same  yeir,  and  an  ox  fell  over  the  craig  and  deit  of  the  fall 
by  your  witchcraft  and  devilrie,  qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

"  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  that  in  Candlemes  evin,  fyve  veiris  sene,  ye  cam  to  Gilbert 
Sandie  in  Isbister  his  house  and  sought  ane  plack  of  silver  in  almis  fra  him  for  his  mcaris,  that  they 
mijy^ht  be  weill  over  the  yeir,  as  ye  said  Davici  Henrie  had  done  that  day,  quha  said  to  yow  that  he  had 
naither  silver,  come,  or  meall  to  spair,  but  baid  his  wyff  geve  you  thrie  or  four  stokis  of  kaill,  and 
ye  been  gane  away,  the  said  ^ilbertis  wyff  followed  yow  with  the  kaill ;  ye  wold  not  tak  thame,  and 
uponn  the  second  day  efter,  his  best  hors,  standing  on  the  floor,  became  wood,  and  felled  himself  and 
deit,  and  the  thrid  night  thaireft  his  best  mair  deit  by  your  witchcraft  and  devilrie,  qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

"  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  cuing,  to  the  said  gilbertis  hous  in  spring  tyme  last,  and 
the  said  jp;ilbertis  wyff  wold  not  let  you  in,  and  ye  going  away,  took  the  profeit  of  hir  milk  be  your 
witchcraft  and  sorcerie,  qlk  yu  cannot  denny. 

**  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  yt.  ye  cam  to  Johne  bewis  hous  in  Waas  twa  yeiris  sene  and 
sought  almiss  and  got  nane,  and  ye  said  he  sould  repent  it,  and  about  noone,  his  best  kow  haveing 
fallen  in  ane  myre,  and  tane  out  be  him,  his  wyff,  and  servands,  she  wold  not  stand,  and  ye  cuing, 
thair,  put  thrie  earis  of  bear,  haveing  first  spit  in  thame,  in  the  kowis  mouth,  and  said  to  thame  that 
cam  to  bear  hir  home,  that  they  neidit  not  make  that  travell,  and  ane  littell  quhyll  eft,  the  kow  being 
almost  dead,  and  not  able  to  draw  ane  foot  to  hir,  rais  with  help,  and  gaid  home  be  your  witchcraft 
and  devilrie,  qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

"  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accust  for  that,  fyve  or  sex  yeiris  sene,  ye  came  to  David  quoynameikill 
his  father's  hous,  at  the  making  of  his  yuU  banket,  and  got  almis,  and  yt.  they  wold  not  sufferre  yow 
to  abid  all  night,  qlk  ye  tald  to  Margaret  abbuster  that  they  refusit  you  ludgino;,  and  said  it  wus  guid 
to  wit  if  ever  the  guidman  of  the  hous  sould  mak  ane  uther  yuU  bankett,  ana  within  fTyftene  dayes 
contractit  seiknes  and  deit  by  yor.  witchcraft  and  devilrie,  qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

**  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  yt.,  thrie  yeiris  sene  or  yrby,  ye  cam  to  David  Quoyna- 
meikill motheris  hous,  and  got  na  almis,  and  she  beiiw  feared  that  evill  sould  befall  hir,  as  it  did  to 
otheris,  befoir  night  she  fellit  herself  uponn  the  lintelT  stane  of  hir  byre  and  deit  within  thrie  dayes, 
and  the  servand  man  also,  be  your  witchcraft  and  devilirie,  Qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

2l 


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358  KIUKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

"  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  cuing,  to  Michaell  firthis  house  in  AbbuBter,  in  spring  tyme 
last,  and  getting  no  almis  becaus  the  milk  was  suppit,  ye  said  ye  miffht  have  keepit  milk  to  me,  and 
they  said  they  knew  not  of  her  cuing.,  and  the  next  day  eft,  ane  cfdff  deit ;  and  now,  when  he  was 
conveying  you  to  hirssay,  he  askit  you  at  the  slap  of  birssay  if  ye  knew  anything  of  the  death  of  his 
calfT,  ye  anserit,  haid  he  not  been  so  cald  to  you,  nane  of  your  calffis  sould  not  nave  deit  this  yeir, 
Qlk  ye  cannot  deny. 

*'  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  that,  sex  yeiris  sene  or  yrby,  that  Johne  rendall  in  brek  had 
twa  calfiss  lying  on  the  grein,  and  ye  askit  gi£f  bothe  these  calffis  were  his,  and  said  they  were  anew  for 
the  first  yeir,  and  ane  of  the  calffis  deit  befoir  nicht  be  your  witchcraft  and  devilrie,  Qlk  ye  cannot 
denny. 

'*  ItHin,  ye  are  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  cuing,  to  Johne  tur^  in  Midland  his  house,  abont  Witsun- 
day  last,  to  get  almis,  and  haveing  gottin  ane  drink  of  new  aill,  ye  was  not  content,  and  befoir  ye  wus 
twa  pair  buttis  (?)  from  the  hous  the  aill  left  working,  and  the  said  Johne,  haveing  sought  you  ane 
day  or  twa  eft,  brought  you  to  his  hous  againe,  and  took  into  his  seller,  and  ye  spit  amongst  the  aill, 
and  said  ye  sould  warrand  him  got  silver  for  everie  drop  of  it,  Qlk  ye  cannot  deny. 

'*  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  yt.,  aucht  yeirs  sene,  ye  banting  to  Andro  Matches'  hous  in 
Sundichous  he  wantett  the  proffeit  of  his  milk,  und  having  compleuit  to  Sr.  Johne  buchanan,  Shreff 
for  the  tyme,  of  how  ye  met  the  said  Andro  uponn  the  mome,  and  said  he  sould  repent  yesterdaye's 
work,  and  the  same  day  ane  ox  strick  of  his  deit ;  and  about  thrie-quarteris  of  ane  yeir  eft,  the  said 
Andro  haveing  cum  to  Evie  to  the  session  of  the  Kirk  to  complene  of  yow,  ye  met  with  him  thrie 
dayes  eft,  and  said  to  him  He  was  alwayes  dealling  with  you  and  complenins  you ,  and  yt.  he  sould 
repent  it,  and  thrie  dayes  eft  The  said  Andro  becam  mad,  and  ye  being  send  for,  and  how  shoone  ye 
came  to  his  house  he  becam  bett.,  and  fell  on  sleip,  and  ouheu  ye  had  gottin  meit,  befoir  ye  teastit 
it,  ye  spat  thrys  over  your  left  shoulder,  and  the  said  Ancfrois  wyff,  fearing  ye  haid  been  doing  moir 
evill,  strak  yow,  and  ye  said  let  me  alone,  for  your  guidman  will  be  weile,  Qlk  ye  cannot  deny. 

'*  Item,  ye  ar  Ind^'ttit  and  accusit  for  yt.,  four  yeiris  sene,  ye  cam  to  Manss  quoynameik ill's  hous 
and  soucht  almis,  and  got  nane  at  y t.  tyme,  Bot  his  mother  haveing  promeised  to  geve  yow  melk  quhen 
hir  kow  calved,  ye  cam  againe  that  same  day  the  kow  calved,  and  soucht  almis,  bot  she  wold  geve  you 
nane,  and  ye  said  ye  put  me  ay  of,  ^eve  me  yt.  ye  promeised  me,  for  now  your  kow  is  calved,  and  said 
she  sould  have  ather  mair  or  less  milk  or  ye  cam  againe,  and  about  aucht  dayes  efter  the  kow  deit  be 
your  witchcraft  and  devilrie,  qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

**  Item,  ye  are  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  yt.,  at  alhallowmes  byeane  ane  yeir,  ye  cam  to  the  said 
Manss  and  sought  ane  peice  colop,  quha  wuld  geve  yow  nane,  and  ye  said,  befoir  ye  cam  againe  he 
sould  have  calopis  to  geve  ;  wthin.  £fourtene  dayes  eft  he  best  ox  deit  be  yor.  witchcraft  and  devilrie, 
qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

*'  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  yt.,  in  winter  last,  ye  cam  to  the  said  Manss'  hous  and 
sought  ait  meall,  and  he  refusand  yow,  ye  said  he  sould  have  mair  or  less  or  ye  came  againe,  and 
fourtene  dayes  eft  his  kill  wth.  aittis  took  fyre  and  brunt  be  your  witchcraft  and  devilrie,  qlk  ye 
cannot  denny. 

**  Item,  ye  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  yt.,  of  your  awen  confessionn,  efter  ye  met  your  Walliman 
upon  the  hill,  ye  cam  to  William  rendall's  hous,  quha  haid  ane  seik  hors,  and  promeised  to  haill  him 
if  he  could  give  yow  twa  penneys  for  everie  foot,  and  haveing  gottin  the  silver,  ye  hailled  the  hors  be 
praying  to  your  Walliman.  Lykeas,  ye  have  confest  that  thnir  is  naither  man  nor  beast  seik  that  is 
tane  away  be  the  hand  of  god,  not  for  almis  ye  are  able  to  cur  it  be  praying  to  your  Walliman,  and  yt. 
thair  is  nane  yt.  geves  yow  almis  bot  they  will  thry ve  aither  be  sea  or  land  if  ye  pray  to  yr.  Walli- 
man, Qlk  ye  cannot  denny. 

**  Ana  geuerallie  ye,  the  said  Jonet  Rendall  als.  Rigga,  ar  Indyttit  and  accusit  for  airt  and  pt.  of 
the  said  abominable  supperstitioun  and  supperstitious  abusein^  and  disceaving  of  the  people,  and  in 
nseing  and  practeisinz  of  witchcraft  and  sorcerie,  and  in  gevem  yur.  selff  furth  to  have  sutch  craft 
and  Knawledge,  thairby  abuseing  the  people,  and  sua  reput  and  halden.  And  yr.  foir,  and  for  the 
pointis  of  dittay  comittit  be  yow  In  maner  above  written,  such  and  sould  underly  the  law,  and  be  ad- 
judgit  to  the  death  for  the  same  and  in  example  of  otheris  to  do  the  lyk,  And  yor.  suids  and  gear 
escheit  and  inbroucht  to  his  Mateis.  use,  conforme  to  the  Act  of  pliament.  and  comon.  Taw,  and  dayle 
practeis  observit  in  sick  caiss's. 

"  Curia  Vicecomitatus  et  Justiciariae  de  Orknay  et  Zetland  tenta  apud  birsay  in  aula 
ibid  per  honorabilem  virum  mrum.  Joannem  Dick,  Vicecomitem  et  Justiclarium 
deputatio— diet  vicecomitatus  undecimo  die  mensis  Novembris  1629. 
*'  Curia  Itima  affirmata. 

"The  qlk  the  sd.  Shrefdeput  chusit  Mr  Harie  Aitkin  in  Clerk,  Rot.  Scollay  in  pfiskall,  Thomas 
Young,  Messr.,  in  officer. 

**  Conipit.  rot.  Scollay,  pfiskall,  and  producit  the  dittayes,  desyring  thame  to  be  red  and  the 
pannell  accusit  yr.  upoun. 

"  The  pannell  pnt.  confest  that  Walliman  came  to  hir  first  in  Nicoll  Jockis  hous  in  halkland,  and 
she  maining  that  she  was  poor  and  haid  nothing,  He  said  to  hir  that  she  sould  leive  be  almis,  and  that 


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BBOAD  STREET.  259 

thair  wus  nather  man  nor  beast  seik  that  were  not  deadlie  be  the  hand  of  God  bot  she,  getting  almiss 
and  praying  to  VValliman,  he  wald  hjtill  thame,  and  if  she  got  no  almiss,  he  wald  be  angrie  and  mak 
thair  bcastis  die  : — 

**  Confest  the  second  point  of  dittay  anent  Manss  Work's  wyflF,  that  she  said  she  sould  repent  it, 
and  yt.  Walliman  gared  the  kow  fall  over  the  craig,  and  eft  she  was  reprovit  yt.  Wallinian  gared  the 
said  Manss  wyflf  die  : — 

**  Confest  the  third  point,  That  the  corne  she  got  wus  bot  shillings  and  yt.  she  was  not  content, 
and  that  Walliman  slew  the  meiris  and  the  man,  and  as  he  promeised  he  was  truy  to  his  : — 

"  Confest  the  fourt  point,  that  she  was  miscontent  that  Wm.  Work  wuld  not  geve  hir  ludging, 
and  yt.  Walliman  was  an^'e  at  it  and  gared  his  wyff  pt.  wth.  chyld  : — 

**  Confest  the  fyft  pomt  and  yt.  Walliman  gared  the  calf  die. 

"  Confest  the  sext  point,  that  thev  wald  not  let  hir  in  and  kot  no  almiss,  and  Walliman  was 
angrie  at  it,  and  gared  his  w^^  run  mad  and  the  beast  die. 

"  Confest  the  sevent  point,  yt.  gilbert  Sandie  wald  geve  hir  nothing  and  yt.  Walliman  wrought 
oonforme  to  the  dittay. 

**  Confest  the  aucht  point  and  yt.  Walliman  took  away  the  proffeit  of  the  ky. 

**  Confest  the  nynt  point  yt.  sho  put  bear  in  the  kowis  mouth,  bot  deunyis  sho  spat  on  it. 

"  Confest  the  Tent  point  yt.  sho  sd.  to  Mart.  AAbbuster  conforme  to  the  dittay  and  yt.  Walli»nan 
keipit  his  promeis. 

"  Confest  the  ellevint  poiut  that  she  got  no  almiss  fra  David  quoynameikill's  wyflf. 

*'  Confest  the  twelflF  point  anent  the  calfiss  that  sho  got  no  almiss,  and  giflF  they  deit  Walliman 
did  it. 

'*  Confest  the  threttin  point  anent  Johne  Turk's  aill,  That  is,  was  bot  littell  sho  got,  and  yrfoir 
Walliman  took  away  the  proflfeit  of  it. 

**  Confest  the  ffourtene  point  anent  Andro  Matches. 

**  Confest  the  fyftene  point  anent  Manss  quoynameikiUs  wyff,  and  yt.  sho  sould  have  ather  mair 
or  less  milk  or  sho  cam  againe  because  she  gotna  almiss. 

**  Denyit  the  sextene  point  anent  Manss  quoynameikill's  ox. 

**  Denyit  the  seven tene  point. 

**  Confest  the  hailling  of  Wm.  rendall's  hors. 

"  Confest  the  rest  of  yt.  point  of  dittay. 

"  Denyit  the  generall. 

"  The  pfiskall  desyrit  that  the  pannell  migt  be  put  to  the  tryell  of  ane  assyss. 

"  The  pannell  pnt.  could  alege  nothing  in  the  conr. 

"  Assise. 

Hew  Halcro  of  Crook.  NicoU  Sclaitt  in  Gome.  William  Kirkum  in  Kirkum. 

Jon.  rendall  in  breck.  Oliver  rendall  in  halkland.  Alexr.  Kirkum  in  birsay  benorth.. 

Henrie  Linklett  in  Aithtoft.  Mans  Scottie  in  brecken.  Wm.  Sclaitt  in  buirdhous. 

David  flaitt  in  Orqnhill.  Adam  bewis  in  goirsnes.  James  Ingisby  in  Ingisby. 

James  Corrigill  in  Cotasbart.  Alexr.  rendall  in  Midgair.  James  Velyean  in  b^iquoy. 

'*That  the  assyss  was  laulie.  swome  and  admittit  bot  objectionn  of  the  pannell.  The  pfiskall 
askit  actis  and  protestit  for  error. 

**  The  pfiskall  pducit.  Manss  Inerair,  Manss  Work,  Wm.  Work,  Jon    Spence,  Wm.  Scottie, 

S'lbert  Sandie,  Jon.  Sandie,  Manss  Wood,  David  quoynameikill,  Michaell  Firth,  Jon.  Turk,  Alexr. 
atchis,  Andro  Matchis,  and  Manss  quoynameikill  in  witness. 

**  The  Assyss,  passing  out  of  Judgment,  chusit  hew  halcro,  chanr. 

"  Manss  Wood  and  gilbert  Sandie  deponed  that  they  wer  send  for  to  bear  home  the  kow,  bot 
jonet  risga  was  cuing,  fra  the  kow  befoir  they  cam  yr. 

*'  Michaell  Firth,  in  abbust,  deponed  yt.  qn.  he  was  cuing,  to  birsay  out  of  the  slap  she  confest  to 
him  conforme  to  the  dittay.  That  if  he  haid  geven  hir  almiss  his  calf  haid  not  deit. 

**  Andro  Matches  depones  that  she  spak  this  words  conforme  to  his  point  of  dittay,  and  that  these 
things  befell  him. 

"  Manss  quoynameikill  depones  anent  the  ox  that  sho  said  he  sould  have  colopis  anew  to  geve 
befoir  sho  cam  againe,  and  yt.  he  sould  have  ather  inoir  or  les  ait  meall  or  sho  cam  againe,  and  yt.  the 
event  foUowit  conforme  to  her  words  and  dittay,  Bot  will  not  tak  it  uponn  his  conscience  yt.  she  did  it. 

**The  Assyss  reent.,  and  in  judgment  all  in  ane  voice  be  the  mouth  of  the  chanr.,  fiyles  the 
pannell  of  the  haill  speciall  pointis  of  dittay  conforme  to  hir  confessionn,  And  in  the  twelff,  fourtene, 
and  sextene  pointis  conforme  to  the  probann.  And  in  the  genall.  that  sho  was  ane  disceaver  of  the 
people,  and  gave  hirselff  furth  To  have  knawledge  to  do  evill,  and  if  ever  sho  promeised  evill,  evill 
befell,  and  reput  and  halden  ane  comon  witch.  And  remittis  sentence  to  the  judffe  and  dome  to  the 
dempst.  .  (Signed)        Hew  Halcro. 

'*  The  judge  accepts  the  determination  of  the  assyss  and  ordaines  the  Pannell  to  be  tane  be  the 


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260  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

lockman  and  convoyed  to  the  place  of  execuonn,  hir  handis  bund  behind  hir  bak,  and  worriet  at  ane 
Btoup  to  the  dead,  and  burnt  in  ass.     Qulk  robert  Sinclair,  dempst  in  birsay  benorth,  gave  for  dome." 

"  Adame  Cromartie  of  Kirkhous  and  Elspeth  Irving,  in  Carray,  in  Southronaldsay,  were 
tried  for  '  incestuous  adultery.'  Cromartie  was  a  widower  and  Elspeth  a  widow,  but  the 
widow  of  Cromartie's  nephew.  *  The  haill  assys,  be  the  mouth  of  the  chanr.,  ffylis  the  pointis 
of  incest  conforme  to  their  confession.'  *  The  judge  accepts  the  determinonn.  of  the  assysa, 
and  ordaines  the  pannells  to  be  tane  be  the  lockman,  with  thair  hands  bund  behind  tnair 
backs,  and  conveyed  to  the  place  of  execuonn.,  and  worried  thair  at  ane  staik  to  the  death, 
and  brunt  in  asses.    Qlk  George  Anderson,  dempst,  gave  for  dome.' " 

In  Kirkwall,  John  Dick  held  his  Courts  "  in  templo  Sancti  MagnV^ 


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CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Grammar  School. 

EN  1677,  Patrick  Smythe's  house  in  the  College  yard  was  occupied  as  a  dwelling-house  by 
Mr  Patrick  Lindsay,  "  physitian,"  who,  in  December  of  the  previous  year,  had  manied 
Marion,  sister  of  William  Monteith  of  Towquoy. 

In  the  same  year,  the  small  house  east  of  Miss  Baikie's  Close  belonged  to  Bailie  David 
Moncrieff,  who  drew  from  it  a  rent  of  £20.  Possibly,  like  the  house  at  the  back,  it  had 
belonged  to  Smythe  of  Braco,  and  had  come  into  the  Bailie's  hands  when,  in  1659,  he  married 
Braco's  widow,  Isobel  Anderson.  This  house  is  described  in  the  Valuation  Roll  as  having 
"the  grammer  school  joyned  close  to  the  east  gavel  yrof."  When  we  see  the  amount  of 
accommodation  required  for  educational  purposes  at  the  present  day,  it  is  difficult  to  realise 
the  fact  that  a  small  dwelling-house  in  Palace  Street  could  have  been  the  Grammar  School  of 
Kirkwall. 

Reared  under  the  fostering  wing  o/  thp  Church,  the  Grammar  School  was  in  existence, 
presumably,  in  Danish  times,  certainly  before  James  the  Third's  Charter,  1486.  This  deed 
"  not  only  conferred  the  ordinary  privileges  of  a  Royal  Burgh,  but  conveyed  the  Cathedral 
and  whole  Bishopric  of  Orkney  to  the  incorporation,  with  a  condition  that  the  proceeds 
thereof  should  be  wholly  employed  in  upholding  the  church  and  School."  ♦ 

It  need  not  be  assumed  that  at  that  early  date  there  was  in  the  Burgh  any  building 
exclusively  set  apart  for  educational  purposes.  The  teachers  were  churchmen,  and  in 
Kirkwall  some  part  of  the  Cathedral  might  be  found  available.  In  the  fifteenth  century 
few  boys  and  no  girls  went  to  school.  But  already  in  Scotland  the  desirability  of  general 
education  was  beginning  to  be  felt.  In  1496,  James  IV.  enacted  that  "  all  persons  of  means 
shall  send  their  eldest  sons  to  school  from  the  time  they  are  eight  or  nine  years  old  till 
they  be  competently  founded  and  perfect  in  Latin"  ;  and  the  King's  object  in  this  shows 
much  forethought— that  "  Justice  might  reign  universally  throughout  the  realm,  and  that 
those  who  are  sheriffs  or  judges  may  have  knowledge  to  do  justice."  And  from  this  time, 
down  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  Scotland  stood  foremost  among  the  nations  of 
Europe,  not  perhaps  as  exhibiting  the  highest  scholarship,  but  as  showing  the  most  widely 
diffused  popular  education. 

When,  in  1544,  the  pious  Bishop  Reid  reconstituted  his  Cathedral  staff,  he  provided  that 
one  of  them,  a  graduate  in  Arts,  and  having  no  other  duty  to  perform,  should  have  charge  of 
the  Grammar  School.  The  master's  emoluments  were  the  rents  of  certain  lands  dedicated  of 
old  to  St.  Peter's  Altar,  t 

James  Morrison,  minister  of  Evie,  reporting  on  the  condition  of  his  parish,  1620,  says  : — 
"  There  are  School  lands  here,  dedicated  of  old  to  the  maintenance  of  a  school  in  Kirkwall, 
lykeas  the  few  dutie  thereof  is  as  yett  payed  to  the  foresaid  schoole."  "  Ane  portion  of  the 
prebendarie  of  St.  Peter  is  that  Schoole  land."    The  same  authority  reports  that  in  Rendall ' 

*  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  42.  t  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  42. 


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262  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEVS. 

there  is  a  portion  of  the  prebendary  of  St.  Peter,  "  of  olde  dedicated  to  the  maintenance  of 
ane  schoole  in  Kirkwall/' 

Rev.  David  Watson,  minister  of  Rousay  and  Egilshay,  reports,  1627,  "  Their  was  payed  of 
old  out  of  the  Hand  of  Rausay,  to  the  Cathedral  Schoole,  six  meal  is  malt  out  of  Avelshaw,  two 
mealis  malt  out  of  a  penny  land  of  Knarston,  twelve  Meils  malt  out  of  the  teinds  of  the  Hand 
of  Weir." 

Thus  the  master  of  the  Grammar  ^hool  of  Kirkwall  was  substantially  "  encouraged." 

Before  the  Reformation,  and  at  first  only  attached  to  cathedrals,  were  what  were  known 
in  Scotland  as  Sang  Schools.  These,  as  might  be  inferred  from  the  name,  were  devoted  to 
the  training  of  choristers.  Some  knowledge  of  letters,  however,  was  required  from  those  who 
took  such  an  important  part  in  the  church  service,  and  a  short  time  daily  was  devoted  to 
reading.  But  "music,  manners,  and  virtue"  were  the  proper  studies  of  the  Sang  School. 
The  master  of  this  school,  under  Bishop  Reid's  endowment,  was  chaplain  of  St.  Augustine^ 
and  had  the  revenues  of  that  altarage,  amounting  to  "  five  chalder  of  victual  by  the  year."  * 
He  was  precentor  in  the  Cathedral,  was  appointed  by  examination,  was  required  to  teach  the 
boys  of  the  choir  and  the  poorer  who  wished  to  attend,  and  was  relieved  from  all  other 
services,  t 

From  the  provision  that  the  teaching  of  the  choristers  and  the  poor  was  to  be  gratis,  it 
may  be  taken  for  granted  that  fees  were  exacted  from  those  who  desired  musical  training  and 
could  afford  to  pay  for  it. 

It  is  somewhat  interesting  to  observe  that  the  educational  endowments  of  the  benighted 
Popish  Church  survived  the  Reformation  for  some  time,  but  in  the  days  of  enlightened 
Protestatitism,  under  no  popular  excitement,  the  schools  were  in  cold  blood  ruthlessly  stripped 
of  their  property,  no  one  having  the  courage  to  come  forward  to  guard  their  rights. 

With  regard  to  the  Grammar  and  Sang  Schools,  a  commission  sitting  in  Kirkwall,  1627, 
reports  : — "  That  thair  is  ane  schoole,  and  that  there  was  ane  f  undatioun  out  of  the  preben- 
darie  of  Sanct  Peiter,  quhilk  consists  both  in  landis  and  teyndis,  the  landis  now  in  the  handis 
of  Robert  Monteith  of  Egilshay,  fewar  yrof,  that  there  is  no  present  provisioun  for  the  schoole 
yit  suppleit  by  the  Reader,  quha  hes  nothing  for  it."  J 

"  That  thair  is  necessitie  for  ane  sang  schoole  for  music  being  taucht  heir  as  of  auld,  for 
laik  of  Meanis  now  thair  is  few  or  nane  can  be  hard  to  praise  God  in  his  house.  The 
foundatioun  of  this  school  of  auld  was  St.  Augustin's  Stouck,  worth  fyve  chalder  of  wictuall 
be  yeir,  now  in  his  Majestie's  possession." 

With  regard  to  these  endowments,  however,  it  is  only  fair  to  say  that  the  General 
Assembly,  in  1593,  petitioned  Parliament  "  to  reform  the  dilapidation  of  the  living  founded  in 
the  Grammer  School  of  Kirkwall,"  and  in  the  meantime  "  ordained  the  Commissioner  of  the 
Kirk  to  deprive  the  dilapidator  of  the  said  living." 

That  this  appeal  was  futile  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  Robert  Monteith  of  Egilshay 
continued  in  possession  of  the  lands  of  St.  Peter's  prebendary,  and  His  impecunious  Majesty, 
James  VI.,  retained  St.  Augustine's  "  fyve  chalder  of  wictuall." 

From  the  nature  of  the  foundation  and  endowment,  it  is  obvious  that  the  patronage  and 
management  of  the  school  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Church,  but  in  post-Reformation  times, 
when  the  power  of  the  Church  had  declined,  the  Magistrates  asserted  the  right  of  interference. 
They  based  their  claim  on  that  clause  in  the  Burgh  Charter  which  gives  them  the  patronage 
of  "All  and  Haill  the  Kirk  called  St.  Magnus  Kirk  and  all  other  Kirks,  Chappells, 
Chapplandries,  schools,  yards  yrof,  and  all  and  sundry  lands  belonging  to  them  lyand  without 
Burgh  as  within  the  samen." 
♦  Pet.  Rent.,  Doc.  Bp.  Ork.,  p.  36.        +  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  22.        t  Pet.  Rent.,  Doc.  Bp.  Ork.,  p.  35. 


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THE  GRAMMAR  StSHOOL.  263^ 

The  names  of  the  earlier  teachers,  if  not  lost,  lie  hidden  in  old  documents,  and  may  yet 
be  brought  to  light,  but  coming  very  near  to  the  time  of  Bishop  Reid^s . foundation  we  have 
the  name  of  Thomas  Houston.  The  Bishop's  School  dates  from  about  1544.  Houston 
resigned  in  1595.  The  most  probable  cause  for  this  resignation  would  be  old  age,  and  this 
being  granted  it  is  no  wild  assumption  to  conclude  that  Houston  was  the  founder's  nominee. 

The  first  Archdeacon  under  the  new  regime  was  Peter  Houston,  and  while  we  cannot 
assert,  we  may  be  permitted  to  imagine  that  the  first  appointment  to  St.  Peter's  prebendary 
was  a  younger  member  of  the  same  family. 

Houston  was  succeeded  by  Andrew  Dishington,  the  patron  on  this  occasion  being  neither 
Church  nor  Corporation.  "  Patrick,  Earl  of  Orkney,  Lord  Zetland,  and  lawful  and  undoubted 
patron  of  all  and  sundry  benefices,  Kirkis,  and  chapiainries  within  the  samyn,  to  the 
Commissioner  and  Presbytery  of  the  same  within  the  diocese  of  the  same,  greeting, — wit  ye 
me  being  informed  of  the  qualifications,  literature,  and  ciphering  of  our  well  beloved  Mr 
Andrew  Dishington,  able  and  meet  to  use  and  exercise  ye  office  of  ane  Mr.  of  ane  Gramer 
scuill,  therefore  to  have  nominat  and  presented,  and  by  these,  our  letters,  nominats  and 
presents  the  said  Mr  Andrew  to  the  Prebendarie  of  Sanct  Peter,  lyand  within  the  diocese  of 
Orkney,  vacant  in  our  hands  by  the  demission  of  Mr  Thomas  Houston,  last  possessor  of  the 
same,  requiring  you  that  you  try  and  examine  the  qualifications,  literature,  and  ciphering  of 
the  said  Mr  Andrew  giff  he  bees  fund  meet,  able,  and  qualified  to  use  and  exercise  ane  Mr.  of 
ane  Gramer  Skuill.  1  Feb.  1595."  Mr  Dishington  was  found  "meet,  able,  and  qualified," 
and  was  inducted  accordingly. 

In  1599,  he  was  presented  to  the  Kirk  of  Stromness,  which  he  held  conjointly  with  the 
school.  In  1600,  the  Lords  of  Council  and  Session  granted  him  decree  against  all  concerned 
for  the  rents  and  other  emoluments  belonging  to  the  prebendary  of  St.  Peter.*  If  Mr 
DLshington  gained  anything  by  this,  it  was  only  temporary  ;  the  lands  remained  in  the  hands 
of  the  dilapidators.  He  was  able,  however,  to  save  for  his  successors  some  of  the  teinds  of  the 
prebendary,  "  whereof  all  that  the  schoolmaster  bruicks  presentlie  is  12  meills  out  of  Wyre."  t 
He  left  the  school  in  1601,  when  he  was  translated  to  Rousay  and  Egilshay.  After  twelve 
years  in  the  North  Isles,  he  was  presented  to  Walls  and  Flotta.  "He  had  a  feu  of  the 
saxpenny  land  besouth  and  benorth  the  burne  in  Hoy  from  James,  Bishop  of  Orkney.  A 
glebe  and  manse  were  designed  to  him  by  George,  Bishop  of  the  diosess,  which  he  possessed 
during  life,  yet  these  were  withheld  from  his  successor.  He  left  a  widow  and  son,  Mr  John, 
who  was  served  heir,  22  Oct.  1644."  J 

In  a  copy  of  a  lease  of  the  land  and  house  above  referred  to,  Mr  Dishington  is  described 
as  minister  of  Hoy  : — "  Be  it  kend  till  all  men  be  thir  pnts.,  me,  elizabeth  tulloch,  relict  of 
umqle  Mr  andro  dischingtoune,  sometyme  minister  of  Hoye,  Grantis  me  to  have  sett  in  tak 
and  asaedatione  all  and  haill  my  six  penny  land  benorth  the  burne  with  my  hous  qlk  I  pntlie. 
dwell  into,  reserving  ane  chalmer  to  myself  for  my  cumming  and  going  to  the  Rgt.  honorable 
hew  halcro  of  that  ilk  and  Jean  Stewart,  his  spous."  The  lease  was  for  five  years,  and  was 
dated  3rd  July  1627. 

For  a  short  time  after  Mr  Dishington  left,  "  the  schoole  was  suppliet  be  the  ridar,  quha 
hes  nothing  for  it."  The  reader's  pay  for  his  proper  work  was  small  enough.  **  The  ridar  hes 
for  his  serveing  in  reiding  in  the  cathedral  Kirk,  half  ane  last  malt  and  six  barrell  butter." 

Mr  John  Stewart,  reader,  who  had  a  house  in  the  Castleyards,  carried  on  the  work  of  the 
school,  and  was  followed  by  Mr  George  Mudie.  The  latter  seems  to  have  had  his  stipend 
reduced  :— 2nd  May  1626,  George  Mudie,  "  reidare"  at  Kirkwall,  sold  "  all  and  haill  my  haill 
viccarage  buttire,  extending  to  fyffe  barrellis  Orknay  buttire." 

•  J.  W.  Cursiter'B  papers.  t  S.  R.,  1711.  t  Fasti. 


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?64  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Mudie,  who  had  graduated  at  St.  Andrews  in  1612,  was  in  1639  appointed  minister  of  the 
Second  Charge  in  St.  Magnus,  the  first  to  holi  that  office. 

After  George  Mudie  came  Mr  John  Hourston,  followed  by  Mr  Patrick  Inglis.  "  Mr  John 
Hirston  and  Mr  Patrick  Inglis  were  successively  both  ministers  and  schoolmasters  in  the 
Burgh  until  the  year  1634,  that  Mr  Patrick  Inglis,  according  to  Acts  of  Parliat.  Laws  of  the 
Kingdom,  discharging  piuralitie  of  benefices  and  offices,  demitt  the  office  of  schoolmaster  and 
the  Prebendarie  of  St.  Peter  thereto  belonging."  ♦ 

The  Session  in  1711  recording  Mr  Inglis'  demission  of  the  office  of  schoolmaster  in  1634 
are  slightly  at  fault.  They  had  before  them  "  ane  copie  of  Mr  Patrick  Inglis'  his  demission  of 
the  prebendarie  of  St.  Peter  in  favors  of  the  school  of  Kirkwall,  dated  at  Kirkwall  the  seventein 
of  April  1634."  Mr  Inglis  had  given  up  the  work  some  years  before,  but,  like  a  good  church- 
man, he  stuck  to  the  living  as  long  as  he  possibly  could. 

"  Mr  Wm.  Cargill,  Master  of  the  gramer  scoole  of  Kirkwaa,"  witnesses  a  deed  at  North 
Strynzie,  which  is  registered  1st  June  1631.  With  very  little  biographical  information  con- 
cerning Mr  Cargill,  the  Registers  of  Deeds  would  lead  us  to  believe  that  be  was  a  welcome 
guest  wherever  he  went,  for  we  find  him  witnessing  contracts  of  different  kinds  all  over  the 
county.  As  this  in  many  instances  meant  a  sojourn  of  more  than  a  day,  the  mere  ability  to 
sign  his  name  cannot  account  for  the  frequency  with  which  his  signature  is  met.  He  must 
have  had  convivial  qualities  to  recommend  him.  He  held  office  for  over  twenty  years,  and 
during  a  part  of  that  time  he  had  a  fixed  salary.  In  one  of  their  squabbles  with  the  Council 
about  the  patronage  of  the  school,  the  Session  asserted  that  before  the  Isbister  Mortification, 
1649,  they  paid  the  teacher.  They  quoted  a  minute  :— "  The  Minister  and  elders  of  the 
Kirk  of  Kirkwall  gave  warrant  to  Smith  of  Braco  to  pay  William  Cargill  his  stipend  of  four 
score  merks." 

Bishop  Graham  had  mortified  1000  merks  for  the  benefit  of  the  church,  the  annual  rent  of 
which  was  to  be  "  at  the  Session's  disposing."  In  1633,  Charles  I.  reduced  the  legal  rate  6f 
interest  from  ten  per  cent,  to  eight,  reserving  to  himself  for  three  years  the  additional  two  per 
cent,  on  all  moneys  put  out  to  use.  The  Bishop's  benefacti^m  then  would  exactly  pay  Mr 
Cargill's  stipend  of  four  score  merks.  The  principal  sum,  while  still  devoted  to  the  paying  of 
the  teacher's  salary,  became  in  1649  part  of  the  Isbister  Mortification. 

The  history  of  this  endowment  may  be  briefly  stated.  A  collection  in  money  was  taken 
up  throughout  Orkney  for  the  relief  of  the  French  Protestants  besieged  in  Rochelle,  but  as 
peace  was  arranged  with  France  before  the  money  could  be  forwarded,  it  was  retained  and 
added  to  the  thousand  merks  placed  by  Bishop  Graham  in  the  hands  of  his  son-in-law,  Patrick 
Smythe  of  Braco,  to  be  at  the  "  Session's  disposing."  The  whole  was  put  in  wadset  on  the 
land  of  Isbister.  In  the  words  of  the  agent  who  carried  out  the  contract,  ''  Because  the  said 
prinll.  soume  of  twa  thousand  merks  above  speit.  contained  in  the  said  contract  is  not  my  own 
proper  money,  but  yrof  thair  is  the  soume  of  Fyve  hundreth  merks  money  qlk  was  collectit 
within  this  country  of  Orkney  for  supplie  of  the  toune  of  Rochelt  in  ftrance,  and  the  remnant 
of  the  said  soume,  extending  to  ane  thousand  pounds  money,  was  collectit  of  the  late  Bishop, 
Ministrie,  and  gentlemen  of  the  said  couutrey  to  be  employed  for  help  and  maintenance  of  the 
gramer  scoole  of  Kirkwall."  With  this  money,  Smythe  bought  from  Robert,  Earl  of  Morton, 
the  lands  of  Isbister,  and  then  "  sett  tack  back  againe  to  the  said  Noble  Earl,  his  airs,  and 
assigns,  be  verteu  of  the  samen  contract,  for  the  yeirlie  payment  of  threttie  meills  malt  for  the 
help  and  maintenance  of  the  said  Gramer  Schoole  of  Kirkwall." 

This  yearly  payment  was  to  be  made  "  within  the  town  of  Kirkwall,  frie  of  all  charges 
and  expences,  betwixt  the  feasts  of  Candlemas  and  Pasch,  with  this  special  provision  that  in 

*  S.  R.,  nth  Jan.  1711. 


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THE   GRAMMAR  SCHOOL.  265 

case  ane  yeir's  dewtie  run  into  another  unpaid,  then  and  in  that  case  the  said  tack  is  to  expyre 
and  be  null  in  itself." 

These  **  Threttie  meills  of  malt,"  or  their  equivalent  in  money,  were  yearly  paid  to  the 
Grammar  School  by  the  Earls  of  Morton  and  their  successors  of  the  Dundas  family,  till,  in 
1872,  the  representatives  of  the  late  Earl  of  Zetland  discovered  that  they  had  been  paying  an 
annuity  for  which  they  were  not  liable.  For  two  hundred  and  twenty-three  years,  Braco's 
contract  had  been  loyally  adhered  to,  and  now  some  "  dilapidator "  is  enjoying  sweet  stolen 
waters  and  secret  bread  to  the  extent  of  seventeen  or  eighteen  {)ounds  yearlie  out  of  the 
endowment  of  Kirkwall  School. 

During  the  latter  years  of  his  incumbency,  whether  from  sickness  or  other  causes,  Mr 
Cargill  was  often  absent  from  school,  and  that  for  considerable  periods.  In  these  intervals^ 
Mr  John  Dishington,  son  of  a  former  master,  ticted  as  locum  teuens.  "  1648,  Nov.  11. — Mr 
John  Dischington  appeared  in  face  of  Session,  and  was  enacted  with  his  own  consent  to  con- 
tinue in  the  office  of  schoolmaster  at  Kirkwall  until  Whitsunday,  exercising  all  the  parts  of  his 
office  therein  faithfully,  as  he  had  done  before."* 

When  at  length  Mr  Dishington  got  full  charge,  his  appointment  was  so  like  the  former 
temporary  arrangements,  that  he  demanded  a  formal  induction  not  only  from  the  church  but 
from  the  heritors,  to  whom  he  had  to  look  for  his  salary  : — 

"  At  Kirkwall,  the  tent  day  of  Nov.,  yeir  of  god  1650  yeirs.  Qlk  day,  in  pi-esonce  of  the  heritors 
and  contrie  of  Orkney  convened  for  the  tyme,  viz.,  Captane  Rot.  Stewart  of  Eday  ;  ColloncU  Jn. 
Stewart,  his  brother  ;  James  Stewart  of  Griemsay  ;  Patrick  Smyth  of  Braco  ;  Mr  Patrick  (iraham  of 
Rowsholme  ;  David  Hairt  of  Kusland  ;  Patrick  Balfour  of  Pharay  ;  James  Baikie  of  Tankemess  ; 
Wm.  Craigie  of  Gairsay  ;  Johne  Craigie  of  Sandes  ;  Mr  Georg  buchannane,  appearand  of  Sound  ; 
Edward  halcrow  of  Howstowne  ;  George  Smyth  of  Rapnes  ;  Harry  hendersone  of  (>lett ;  John  Pot- 
tinger,  bailzie  of  Kirkwall ;  David  Stewart  of  How  ;  and  David  Kincaid  of  Yensta, — Compeired 
personally  Mr  John  Dischintoune,  school  master  at  Kirkwall,  and  dcsyred  the  fornamed  gentillmen 
and  heritors,  being  ane  yeir  since  they  wer  willing  yt.  he  sould  undertake  the  charge  of  the  gramar 
Bclioole  of  Kirkwall,  and,  conform  yrto,  he  hes  entered  into  charge  of  the  samyn  at  Caudlemes  last, 
and  as  yet  hes  no  certificate  nor  testimony  of  yr.  call,  approbatione,  or  consent  yrto,  qrby  he,  as  ane 
able  and  qualified  schoolmaster,  might  exerse  the  said  office,  and,  appro ven  by  them,  conforme  to  yr. 
call  yrin,  may  reseave  the  dewtyes,  rents,  fFynes,  and  cassualityes  (tp^a  corpora)  l)clonging  yrto  and 
authorized  in  the  uplifting  yrof  ;  Qlk  desyre  the  forsd.  gentillmen  and  hereitors  thought  reasonable. 
And  yrfoir  they  all,  in  one  voice,  have  ratified  and  approven  the  said  Mr  Johne  Dischintoune  his 
entne  to  the  said  schoole  of  Kirkwall  as  ane  able  and  qualifyed  schoolmaster,  with  full  power  to  him, 
his  servitors  in  his  name  whom  he  sail  appoynt,  to  intromett  with,  collect,  and  reseave  the  schoole 
rentes  of  victuall  and  uyres  (ipna  corpora)  fra  the  tennentes,  farmers,  and  all  oyrs. ,  occupyres  of  the 
Lands  addepted  in  payment  yrof,  of  the  crope  sixteen  hundreth  ffytie  twa  yeircs,  and  in  tyme  coming, 
during  his  service  at  the  cure  at  the  said  schoole,  Re^ueisting  all  judges  and  Magistrates  to  interpone 
yr.  authoritie  for  uplifting  of  the  said  Schoole  rent  m  victuall  dewtie.  And  in  respect  that  the  said 
Mr  Johne  is  authorized  to  reseave  fipwi  corpora)  for  the  schoole  rent,  he  is  ordained  to  keep  ane 
sufficient  Doctor h  under  him  in  the  schoole  for  the  better  discharging  of  the  dewty  of  his  calling." 

In  1662  a  copy  of  this  **  Act  and  presentation,"  written  by  James  Georgesone,  "  Notar 
Publick,"  was  sent  to  Bishop  Sydserf,  who  signed  it  after  having  added  a  further  precept,  that 
"  the  forsd.  gentrie  and  all  oyrs  lyable  in  payment ''  should  assist  the  Master  in  the  ingathering 
**  of  his  profeites  and  comodityes  for  serving  at  the  said  schoole."  It  was  also  signed  by  the 
Dean  and  Chapter  ;  Thomas,  Bishop  of  Orkney  ;  Mr  Edward  Richardson,  provost ;  Mr  George 
Graham,  thesaurer  ;  Mr  David  Kennedy,  archdeacon  ;  Mr  Johne  Hendry,  chantor ;  Mr  James 
Guild,  sub-chantor  ;  Mr  Jon.  Balvaird,  sub-deane.^ 

In  spite  of  all  this,  however,  Mr  Dishington  was  satisfied  that  some  of  the  "*  gentillmen  '^ 
of  Orkney  were  defrauding  the  school  of  its  revenues,  and  he  resolved  to  prosecute  the 

*  Pet.  Ken.,  App.,  57.  t  English  master.  X  Synod  Records,  November  1650. 

2M 


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26()  KIUKWALL    IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

"  dilapidators  "  of  St.  Peter's  prebendary.    Accordingly  he  procured  from  the  Kirk  Session  & 
list  of  its  endowments  : — 

**  Impris.,  we  find  the  rental  of  the  Prebendarie  of  St.  Peter,  belonging  to  the  Grammar  School  of 
Kirkwall,  24  M.  Malt  of  the  personage  teinds  of  the  Isle  of  Wvre  ;  2  M.  Malt  and  2  M.  flesh  out  of 
the  one  penny  land  of  Knarston,  in  Kousay  ;  6  M.  Malt,  6  M.  flesh,  and  3  lb.  money  grassam  out  of 
the  three  penny  land  of  Avilsha  there  ;  5  M.  malt  out  of  one  penny  land  in  LangskaiU  there.  Item, 
ane  half  barrel  butter,  2  M.  flesh  out  of  the  one  penny  land  of  nestow,  in  Rendall.  Item,  ane  barrell 
butter  and  ten  pounds  money  out  of  two  penny  land  in  Cottis-carth  there.  Item,  ane  barrell  butter 
and  six  pound  money  out  of  three  penny  land  in  Midhouse,  in  Evie.  Item,  ane  barrell  butter  and  ane 
noble  or  crown  out  of  the  Fair  He,  extending  in  all  to  37  M.  malt,  3j^  barrell  butter,  33  lb.  money  for 
flesh  and  grassum." 

Upon  petitioning  "  the  Commissioners  of  the  parliat.  of  England  for  managing  the  affairs 
in  Scotland,"  Mr  Diahington  at  once  obtained  letters  of  horning  against  Patrick  Monteith  of 
Egilshay,  David  Maclennau  of  Wood  wick,  the  heirs  of  Robert  Ballenden  of  Evie  and  John 
Sinclair  of  Quendale  in  Zetland,  possessors  of  the  above-mentioned  lands,  ordaining  them  "  to 
content  and  pay  to  him  the  haill  rents  and  dewfeie  abstracted  by  them  of  all  years  and  terms 
bygone,  conform  to  the  rental  of  the  said  prebendarie,  and  conform  to  the  first  parliament  of 
King  Charles  the  First,  act  sixth,  made  anent  restoring  of  kirk,  school,  and  hospital  rents, 
together  with  the  executions  and  denunciations  following  thereupon  against  Patrick  Monteith 
of  Egilshay  and  David  Maclennau  of  Woodwick."*  With  all  this  Mr  Dishington  failed  to 
secure  any  permanent  benefit  to  the  school. 

Meantime  the  old  school-house  was  beginning  to  show  signs  of  decay,  and,  August  30th, 
1658,  "  Compeired  Mr  John  Diachington,  schoolmiister,  and  desired  that,  according  to  the 
former  practice  of  the  session  and  the  justices  of  Peace  order,  they  wimld  cause  mend  the  roof 
of  the  school,  quhich  is  liklie  to  goe  to  ruiue  if  it  were  not  beited  f  this  winter.  The  session 
aggried  to  his  desyre,  and  ordained  David  Sinclair  to  mend  all  quhat  had  neid  of  mending  for 
this  winter,  and  the  next  spring  it  sould  be  thoroughly  beited."  { 

Mr  Dishington  retained  office  till  his  death,  28th  February  1681.  "  Monday  morning, 
bet.  3  and  4,  Mr  John  Dischingtoune,  Schoolmaster,  dept.  this  life."  § 

Mr  Shilpes,  a  native  of  Moray  and  graduate  of  Aberdeen,  was  the  next  incumbent. 
^*  June.  1st,  being  Wednesday,  Mr  John  Shilpes  was  placed  and  ordained  Maister  of  the 
Grammar  School  in  presence  of  Bishop  Mackenzie  and  some  of  the  brethren  and  Bailie  Erbrie 
andCouusellofKirkwall."|| 

As  yet  no  one  in  the  burgh  doubted  for  one  moment  that  the  management  of  the  school 
belonged  to  the  Church ;  but  when  the  Bishop  and  Session  paid  the  Magistrates  the  compli- 
ment of  inviting  them  to  be  present  at  the  iuduction  of  a  schoolmaster,  they  inserted  the  thin 
end  of  the  wedge,  which  was  by  and  by  driven  home  by  the  civic  rulers. 

Mr  Shilpes  did  the  work  for  three  years,  when  he  was  ordained  minister  of  St.  Andrews 
and  Deerness.  He  was  succeeded  by  Thomas  FuUerton,  A.M.,  Aberdeen,  from  Kinaber,  Forfar- 
shire. On  Friday,  4th  July  1684,  "  in  presence  of  Murdoch,  Bishop  of  Orkney  ;  Oversanday, 
Provost ;  and  Gairsay,  for  and  in  name  of  the  countray,  ...  Mr  Thomas  Fullerton, 
student  in  divinitie,  was  possest  in  ye  said  school."  IT 

We  know  very  little  of  the  work  of  those  old  masters,  but  we  do  know  that  Mr  Fullerton 
encouraged  school  games,  and  that  he  procured  an  Act  from  the  Session  that  "  ther  is  non  in 
toun  or  paroch  that  marries  but  shall  pay  a  foot  ball  to  the  scholars  of  the  Grammar  School."* 
And  this  ''  ba'  money  "  was  regularly  paid,  being  included  in  the  Registrar's  fees  down  to  the 
passing  of  the  Registration  Act,  which  came  in  force  1st  January  1853. 

*  S.  R.,  1711.  +  Pointed.  t  Pet.  Rent.,  App.,  69.  §  T.  B. 

II  T.  B.  ir  T.  B.  *  S.  R.,  7th  Dec.  1684. 


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.   THE   GUAMMAR   SCHOOL.  267 

After  holding  office  for  five  years,  Mr  Fnllertbn  was  ordained  to  the  ministry.  "  Thursday, 
4  Jan.  1688,  Mr  Thomas  Fullerton  preached  his  first  sermon  in  S.  Magnus  Kirk  ;  his  text  was 
the  3rd  v.  of  the  4th  Coloss.,  *  Withal  praying  also  for  us,  that  God  would  open  a  door  of 
utterance  to  speak  the  mystery  of  Christ/ "♦  In  1689,  he  was  presented  to  the  church  of 
Westray,  and  the  following  year  he  married  Catherine  Gordon,  daughter  of  the  Laird  of 
Cairston  and  widow  of  the  Rev.  John  Spence,  late  minister  of  Firth.  "  Thursday  the  2nd 
Jany.  1690,  Mr  Thomas  Fullerton,  minister  at  Westray,  was  married  to  Catherine  Gordon  by 
Mr  Jn.  Cobb,  second  Minister  at  S.  iMagnus  Kirk  in  Kirkwall,  and  passed  from  thence  to  the 
Bue  of  Kairstane  to  hold  the  Marriage  feast,  the  weatlier  being  vy.  bad  that  day."  t  He  con- 
tinued in  Westray  till  1698,  when  "  he  was  accused  of  negligence,  inefficiency,  and  being  an 
enemy  to  church  and  state."  Accordingly  he  "  demitted,  being  resolved  to  live  elsewhere."  The 
real  ground  of  the  charge,  doubtless,  was  that  the  minister  was  an  episcopalian  and  a  Jacobite. 
That  he  had  been  very  popular  in  Kirkwall,  we  have  undoubted  proof.  Tn  October  1699, 
when  he  was  going  **  to  live  elsewhere,"  "  the  Magistrates  and  Counsell  appoynt  a  burgess 
and  guild  brother  tic<iuet  to  be  writte  in  favors  of  Master  Thomas  Foulertoune,  Late  minister 
of  Westra  and  Papa-Westra,  and  that  gratis,  as  being  old  scholemaster  of  this  Brugh." 

Meanwhile  he  had  been  succeeded  in  the  Grammar  School  by  Mr  Watt,  whose  inductiou 
was  marked  by  a  fresh  dejiarture  in  the  mode  of  procedure.  Mr  Watt  was  a  "  student  iu 
physick."  Had  he  been  a  student  in  **  divinitie,"  he  would  have  had  less  trouble  at  the  hands 
of  the  ministers.  As  it  was,  he  was  put  through  an  examinaticm  in  the  school,  presumably  in 
presence  of  the  pupils  : — "  Wednesday,  Mi-  John  Watt,  that  came  from  Edinboro  to  be  school- 
master of  the  grammar  school  of  Kirkwall,  was  examined  in  the  said  school  in  presence  of  Mr 
Jas.  Wallace,  Mr  Jn.  Wilson,  Mr  John  Herbrie,  Mr  John  Shilpes,  Mr  Thomjis  Fullertoune, 
Gairsay,  Oversanday,  Stenhouse,  Tankerness,  and  several  others."!  He  was  heckled  by  four 
ministers,  two  of  whom  had  formerly  been  masters  of  the  school,  in  the  presence  of  four 
county  magnates  "  and  others."  What  satisfaction  the  examiners  had  is  not  shown,  but  it  wa* 
not  till  the  Tuesday  following  that  Mr  Watt  began  his  work,  and  he  resigned  in  less  than  a 
year  with  the  intention  of  returning  to  Edinburgh,  probably  to  complete  his  medical  curriculum. 

Then  "  Mr  John  Cunningham,  who  is  to  be  maister  of  the  grammar  school,  arrived  at 
Kirkwall  with  his  wife  and  three  bairnes,"  18th  July  1689.§ 

But  Mr  Watt,  when  he  retired  from  the  school,  did  not  at  once  leave  Kirkwall,  and  the 
Church  retained  him  as  Session-clerk  and  precentor,  "and  settled  on  him  the  salarie  and 
casualties  possest  by  his  immediate  predecessors." 

**  In  the  town,  as  well  as  in  the  country  parishes,  the  schoolmaster  is  usually  precentor 
and  session  clerk,  which  biings  him  some  advantages,  for  he  receives  one  shilling  and  sometime* 
one  shilling  and  six  pence  for  the  publication  of  banns  of  marriage,  sixpence  for  registering 
christenings,  and  three  pence  for  every  person  that  moves  from  the  parish."  || 

The  following  year  Mr  Watt  again  purposed  returning  to  Edinburgh,  and  "Mr  Cun- 
ningham compeared  in  Session  to  undertake  the  charge  of  reader,  precentor,  and  Session 
Clerk  ;  he  was  appointed  against  Friday  next  in  the  Session  house  to  give  in  a  specimen  of 
his  qualifications  for  that  charge  before  Mr  John  Wilson,  Provost  Traill,  and  Wm.  Mudie."  IT 
But  plainly  Mr  Cunningham  thought  more  of  his  own  singing  than  candid  criticism  would 
warrant,  for  '*  Mr  John  Cunningham  having  given  in  that  trial  ut  supra  appointed  in  the 
session  house  to  the  small  satisfaction  of  the  hearers,  as  likewise  upon  Wednesday  and  Sunday 
in  face  of  congregation,  and  the  session  considering  his  utter  insufficiency  for  that  charge, 
declared  him  utterlie  incapable  of  that  place  at  any  time,  and  seeing  that  Mr  John  Watt  had 

♦  T.  B.  +  T.  B.  t  T.  B.,  22nd  Aug.  1688. 

§  T.  B.  II  Dr  Fea,  1787.  IF  S.  R.,  15th  December  1690. 


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208  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

retarded  of  his  voyage  to  Edinr.  in  regard  of  the  pirates  at  sea,  the  session  called  him  to  his 
former  charge." 

In  those  days  class  books  were  supplied  by  the  Session,  and  we  find  Mr  Cunningham 
<*alled  upon  to  give  in  **  a  catalogue  of  the  books  belonging  to  the  school."  No  doubt  he  did 
so,  but  unfortunately  the  list  is  not  preserved. 

Poor  Cunningham's  teaching  power  was  about  equal  to  his  singing,  and  opposition  was 
started.  In  1692  the  schoolmaster  complained  to  the  Council  that  '*  Mr  John  Davidson, 
residenter  in  Kirkwall,  was  teaching  and  learning  several  boys  Latine."  Mr  Davidson's  home 
and  academy  was  that  house  in  Albert  Street  which  had  formerly  belonged  to  the  Rev.  James 
Wallace. 

Shortly  after  this  Mr  Cunningham  was  out  of  office,  and  while  he  was  utterly  inefficient 
and  should  never  have  had  the  appointment,  one  cannot  help  feeling  sorry  for  the  "  wife  and 
three  bairnes  " — perhaps  more  by  this  time — who  had  to  make  that  dreadful  southern  voyage 
at  the  risk  of  meeting  "  pirates  at  seti.' 

In  1694,  Mr  Hugh  Todd,  schoolmaster  of  Kirkwall,  witnesses  the  infeftment  of  Andrew 
Young  in  the  house  *'  on  the  north  side  of  the  kirkyard  dyke  "  formerly  belonging  to  Magnus 
Taylor.  After  three  years'  work,  Mr  Todd  was  in  such  serious  trouble  that  his  dismissal  was 
contemplated.  "  It  was  likewise  proposed  that  the  persons  concerned  in  thB  planting  of  the 
school  of  Kirkwall  should  be  spoken  with  upon  Mr  Todd,  schoolmaster,  his  now  removall, 
which  was  recommended  by  Mr  Thomas  Baikie,  minister,  as  also  to  advise  with  the  presbytery 
thereanent." *  Mr  Todd  at  once  retired,  and  at  next  meeting  "there  was  a  letter  read  in 
Session  by  the  minister,  and  was  appointed  to  be  sent  as  a  call  to  Mr  Eobert  McLeod,  for 
the  present  at  Cromartie,  to  invite  him  to  be  schoolmaster  at  Kirkwall."  That  letter  was 
dated  15th  November  1697  ;  and  on  the  21st  February  1698,  "the  session  agreed  with  Wm. 
Elphinston,  Post,  to  goe  to  Cromartie  for  a  schoolmaster,  and  appointed  the  Thesaurer  to  give 
him  £10  Scotts  as  his  fee." 

But  Mr  McLeod  could  not  be  persuaded  to  come  north,  and  Mr  John  Spence  was  installed, 
1698.  On  the  4th  of  March  1700,  "  John  Spence,  schoolmaster,  demanded  of  the  Session  that 
the  skillet  bell  in  the  steeple  might  be  allowed  to  ring  for  the  school  and  scholars'  use  at 
seven  in  the  morning,  ten  of  the  clock,  and  two  in  the  afternoon."  The  Session  consulted  the 
Magistrates,  permission  was  granted,  and  the  ringing  of  the  Skellet  as  school  bell  continued 
to  within  the  memory  of  living  men. 

During  the  incumbency  of  this  master,  the  Town  Council  began  to  interfere  very  directly 
in  the  management  of  the  school.  From  the  fact  that  they  took  their  stand  upon  the  Burgh 
Charter,  it  might  seem  that  they  were  very  properly  asserting  their  civic  rights.  But  Kirkwall 
was  at  that  time  in  a  miserable  condition  socially,  owing  to  the  rancorous  strife  between  sour 
presbyterianism  and  black  prelacy,  represented  by  the  Session  on  one  hand  and  the  Magistracy 
on  the  other. 

In  1705 — Mr  Baikie,  the  minister,  being  in  Edinburgh — Mr  Spence,  easy  man,  was  per- 
suaded to  give  up  his  call  from  the  Session,  receiving  instead  a  call  from  the  Magistrates  only. 
Mr  John  Davidson  was  at  this  time  English  Master,  or  "  Doctor,"  of  the  Grammar  School, 
and  having  been  summarily  dismissed  by  Mr  Spence,  he  appealed  to  the  Magistrates,  who 
reinstalled  him. 

In  January  1711,  the  Council  took  up  a  complaint  against  Mr  Spence,  preferred  by 
William  Liddell  of  Hammer,  James  Fea  of  Clestrain,  William  Fea,  and  Thomas  Dishington. 
Among  other  points  in  the  indictment,  it  was  stated  that  the  work  of  the  school  was  so 
unsatisfactory  as  to  cause  gentlemen  to  bring  "  Chaplains "  from  the  south  to  educate  their 

♦  S.  R.,  let  Nov.  1697. 


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THE  GRAMMAR  SCHOOL.  269 

children.  To  this  Mr  Spence  replied—"  Was  1  schoolmaster  in  Kirkwall  when  gentlemen  in 
the  country,  such  as  Burray,  Gainsay,  Broch,  Tankerness  while  in  Eday,  Grahamshall,  Breck- 
ness,  provided  themselves  with  chaplains  ]" 

This  shows  that  in  the  seventeenth  century,  before  Mr  Spence  took  office,  many  of  the 
Orkney  lairds  engaged  private  tutors  for  the  education  of  their  children.  These  were  mostly 
divinity  students,  who  also  acted  as  chaplains — Levites  they  were  called* — many  of  whom 
took  licence  from  the  Orkney  presbyteries.  Indeed,  there  were  so  many  of  these  young  men 
in  Orkney,  that  on  10th  November  1644,  the  Synod  "ordains  the  Brethren  to  try  in  their 
respective  paroches  qt.  chaplains,  paedago^es,  and  schoolmasters  there  are,  and  requyre 
them  to  appear  before  us  the  first  day  of  March  next  and  to  produce  their  testimonials/' 

It  may  be  observed,  in  passing,  that  for  educational  purposes  some  gentlemen  took  rooms 
in  town  : — "  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  hath  ane  large  tenement  under  sclaitt  roof  possest 
by  himself,  George  Moodie,  and  Robert  Stewart  of  Eday*s  children."  t 

Some  boys  were  boarded  in  town.  In  a  list  of  "  Moneyis  debursit  for  freinds,  1643,  be 
Patrick  Smythe  of  Braco,  qhilk  they  are  restand  me  as  yit,''  there  is  an  entry  against  Mr  Henry 
Smythe,  **  Minister  at  Shapinshaw" :— "Item  to  the  Scolmaster  for  your  sone's  second  quarter's 
payment,  the  1 2  of  July,  54s.  Mair  that  day  to  his  doctor  for  him,  27s.  Mair  to  umquhill 
John  davidson's  wyflF,  ye  13  July,  for  his  quarter's  burd,  25  lib." 

Another  point  in  the  complaint  against  Mr  Spence  was  a  specific  charge  of  inebriation. 
Bailie  Traill,  who  had  been  present  on  the  festive  occasion,  "  could  not  say  that  he  was  drunk, 
neither  was  he  perfectly  sober,  but  what  will  be  only  sufficient  to  quench  another  man's  thirst 
will  confuse  him."  The  Session  protested  against  the  action  of  the  complainers  and  against 
the  Council  for  taking  the  matter  into  their  hands.  The  ministers  and  elders  drew  up  a 
history  of  the  connection  between  church  and  school,  and,  as  proof  of  their  right  of  patronage, 
produced  from  the  Session  box  the  deed  of  the  Isbister  Mortification.  Against  this  the 
Magistrates  showed  the  Burgh  Charter,  and  though  the  Council  had  never  expended  a  penny 
on  the  upkeep  of  the  school,  the  Session  thought  it  best  in  the  circumstances  to  compromise. 
"  It  was  proposed  that,  for  the  good  and  welfare  of  the  place,  matters  relating  to  the  school 
should  be  judged  upon  by  a  Committee  of  the  Session  and  Council  of  equal  number."  }  The 
Magistrates,  however,  had  the  best  of  it.  On  the  9th  February  1711,  "they  found  that  the 
most  fitt  and  commodious  method  is,  and  it  was  resolved  by  both  committees,  Session  and 
Council,  that  qn.  sd.  Schoolmaster  is  to  be  Judged  for  any  Imorality  or  the  Lyke,  which  may 
only  merit  corporal  I  punishment  or  pecuniall  mulct.  The  Magistrates  may  and  shall  of  them- 
selves as  Magistrates  judge  and  punish  the  same."  The  present  libel  was  "judged  upon,"  and 
though  it  was  found  "  not  proven,"  Mr  Spence  resigned  his  situation,  because  he  considered, 
perhaps  rightly,  that  his  influence  was  gone. 

When  Mr  Spence  gave  up  the  school,  he  got  from  the  Council  a  twenty  years'  lease  of 
Dalespot.  Many  notices  of  Spence  go  to  show  that  the  schoolmaster  was  a  feckless  body. 
More  than  once  Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards  had  to  prosecute  him  for  sums  of  money  owing 
to  the  Gimell. 

Mr  John  Scollay,  who  had  occasionally  conducted  the  school  in  the  absence  of  Mr  Spence, 
was  now  asked  to  take  the  work  till  the  next  meeting  of  Presbytery,  when,  if  after  examination 
he  were  found  qualified,  he  should  have  the  appointment.  He  got  the  situation,  found  it  a 
pleasant  one,  and  kept  it  for  eight  years.  William  Orem,  Town  Clerk,  occupied  the  tenement 
at  the  east  end  of  the  school,  and  the  teacher  and  the  lawyer  were  more  than  friendly  ;  and 
80  it  happened  that  when,  in  1719,  Scollay  gave  up  the  school  and  went  to  be  minister  of 
Stronsay,  Miss  Orem  went  with  him  to  make  the  manse  comfortable. 

♦  From  Judges  xvli.  1013.  t  Val.  Roll,  1714.  J  S.  R.,  12th  Feb.  1711. 


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270  KIRKWALL  IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

In  those  days  people  did  not  give  a  wife  the  name  of  her  husband,  and  Mrs  ScoUay  waa 
known  in  Stronsay  as  the  Lady  Orem.  She  did  not  like  the  position  of  the  manse  down  in 
the  hollow,  and  would  have  preferred  to  live  on  the  ridge,  where  the  public  road  now  runs,, 
commanding  a  view  of  the  firths  on  both  sides  of  the  island,  and  the  site  which  she  considered 
most  suitable  is  known  to  this  day  as  Orem's  Fancy. 

On  Mr  Scollay's  resignation,  the  Magistrates,  without  consulting  the  Session,  appointed 
Mr  Thomas  Traill,  son  of  George  Traill  of  Quendale,  late  Provost  of  Kirkwall,  and  asked  the 
Presbytery  to  examine  him.  The  Presbytery  resented  this  high-handed  action,  and  wrote  to 
the  agent  of  the  church  in  Edinburgh  showing  how  the  school  had  been  "  planted,"  and  asking 
advice.  A  conference  was  again  held,  and  the  terms  upon  which  future  appointments  should 
be  made  were  laid  down.*  Then  Mr  Traill  was  received  with  great  cordiality.  Without 
reference  to  past  troubles,  "  the  ministers  acquainted  the  Session  that  they  were  called  for  by 
the  Magistrates  and  advised  with  annent  the  planting  of  the  said  Rch<x)l,  and  that  there  it  was 
thought  of  admitting  Mr  Thomas  Traill,  son  of  the  deceast  George  Traill  of  Quendale,  to  be 
Master  of  the  said  Grammar  School,  which  the  Session  is  very  well  pleased  with.*'  This 
installation  was  a  function  of  great  ceremony. t  "  Mr  Thomas  Traill,  in  presence  of  the 
Miigist rates,  Ministers,  and  Elders,  accepted  of  the  charge  of  the  Grammar  School  for  four 
years,  and  after  his  delivering  an  oration  in  audience  of  the  above-mentioned,  and  his  giving  a 
aufficient  evidence  of  his  qualifications  by  examining  of  the  several  classes  of  the  school 
separately,  he  was  publicly  invested  in  the  said  office." 

In  1727,  Mr  Traill  gave  in  his  resignation,  having  received  a  call  to  the  church  of  Orphir. 
In  1730,  he  married  Sibilla,  daughter  of  the  Rev.  Alexander  Grant  of  South  Ronaldshay.  He 
was  translated  to  Lady  Parish,  Sanday,  18th  July  1733,  and  died  1753. 

The  Magistrates  now,  without  appointing,  presented  Mr  George  Reid  to  the  Presbytery 
for  examination.  The  examiners,  of  whom  Mr  Traill  was  one,  report  liim  a  young  man  likely 
to  improve,  and  recommend  the  Council  to  try  him.  J  He  got  the  appointment,  and  continued 
in  office  till  1734,  when  he  was  induced  to  resign,  "being  found  fault  with  for  immoderately 
chastising  and  cruelly  treating  the  children  under  his  care." 

He  was  succeeded  by  Mr  Murdoch  MacKenzie,  and  he  again  by  Mr  John  Scollay,  son  of  a 
former  master.  MacKenzie  found  chart-making  more  interesting  work  than  teaching,  and  Mr 
Scollay  was  in  1742  called  to  be  minister  of  the  Second  Charge  in  St.  Magnus. 

Mr  Reid,  who  was  still  in  Kirkwall,  "upon  promises  of  better  behaviour,  was  again 
received  to  te«ach  the  school  till  a  proper  schoolmaster  could  be  found."  §  When  a  proper 
schoolmaster  was  found,  Mr  Reid,  who  had  married  Isobel,  daughter  of  Bailie  Peter  Traill, 
wont  as  missionary  to  the  Fair  Isle,  from  which  place  he  was  called  in  1752  to  be  minister  of 
Nesting,  in  Shetland.     He  died  there  in  1770. 

In  1743,  "the  Magistrates  signed  a  presentation,  and  delivered  it  to  Mr  Short,  to  be 
Schoolmaster  of  Kirkwall  for  three  years."  Having  served  his  three  years,  Mr  Short  left 
Kirkwall,  and  Mr  Donald  MacKenzie  succeeded,  1746.  This  incumbent  died  in  1750,  and  Mr 
William  MacPherson  was  taken  **  on  trial."  MacPherson  appears  to  have  given  satisfaction^ 
for  he  held  office  till  his  death  in  1757. 

Mr  James  Shearer  was  then  placed  in  the  school  on  a  twelve  months'  trial,  after  passing  a 
presbyterial  examination.  He  did  the  work  for  six  years,  and  died  in  harness.  In  his  time, 
Mr  Robert  Orchardson  was  "  Doctor." 

In  1763,  Mr  Alexander  Redford,  who  had  succeeded  Orchardson  as  English  master,  and 
who  was  evidently  popular  in  the  burgh,  was  asked  to  take  the  Grammar  School.    He  was  at 

♦  S.  R.,  29th  July  1719.  t  19th  August. 

t  Presb.  Rec,  14th  Aug.  1728.  §  J.  W.  Cureiter's  papers. 


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.     THE  GRAMMAK   SCHOOL.  271 

the  same  time,  as  most  of  his  predecessors  had  been,  made  Session-clerk  and  precentor/ 
Unfortunately,  his  Latin  was  not  up  to  the  requirements  of  the  situation,  and  he  resigned  the 
mastership,  but  retained  the  other  two  offices. 

In  1764,  the  school  buildings  erected  by  good  old  Bishop  Reid  were  condemned  as  unsuit- 
able and  insufficient.  A  committee  of  the  Council  reported,  as  the  the  result  of  an  inspection 
by  competent  workmen,  "  that  it  would  require  a  very  large  sum  for  repairing  the  old  school 
and  building  another  new  school,  as  the  materials  in  said  old  school,  if  it  was  taken  down, 
would  be  of  very  small  vahie  ;  and,  besides,  if  the  schools  were  repaired  as  formerly  designed, 
by  their  situation  would  not  probably  answer  the  purposes  of  two  schools,  as  they  would  be 
still  very  damp  and  ill-lighted.''  "  It  was  therefor  resolved  to  build  two  new  schools  at  the 
north  side  of  St.  Magnus  church,  with  the  west  side  thereof  close  to  the  street."  The  two 
schools  were  under  one  roof.  "The  Grammar  School  was  a  one-storey  building  on  Broad 
Street,  about  half-way  between  the  Cathedral  and  Mr  Pollexfen's  house."* 

On  Mr  Bedford's  resignation,  a  Mr  Wait  was  appointed,  and  did  the  work  for  a  couple  of 
years,  when  he  gave  up  the  school.  Provost  Riddoch,  at  a  Council  meeting,  31st  May  1766, 
produced  a  letter  from  Mr  Farquhar,  of  the  Edinburgh  High  School,  recommending  Mr 
Aleicander  McGowan  as  master  of  the  Kirkwall  Grammar  School.  It  was  resolved  to  write 
"by  Baillie  Patrick  Traill,  bound  for  Leith,"  asking  Mr  Farquhar  "to  send  Mr  McGowan 
north  in  Baillie  Traill's  sloop,  the  John  and  Robert." 

It  seems  improbable  that  Mr  McGowan  came,  for  in  January  1768,  "Walter  Sharp 
demits  the  office  of  Grammar  School  Master."  t  Sharp  had  held  the  appointment  for  some 
time,  for  it  was  agreed  to  pay  him  his  salary  for  a  year  and  a  half  at  the  rate  of  £18  sterling 
per  annum,  "  but  with  the  deduction  of  his  school  fees,  which  he  says  amount  only  to  £4  15s  ; 
also  an  account  due  to  Robert  Laing  and  one  to  Robert  Kelday  for  board." 

In  autumn  of  the  same  year,  "  Mr  Balfour  of  Trenabie  having  come  to  the  southward, 
interested  himself  in  the  business,  and  being  empowered  by  the  Provost  and  Magistrates  of 
that  Borough  to  act  in  their  behalf,  made  application  to  the  Professors  of  the  Mareshall  College 
of  Aberdeen  in  order  to  have  their  recommendation  in  favour  of  a  person  on  whose  moral 
character  and  qualifications  as  a  teacher  the  people  of  Kirkwall  might  rely."  Mr  Balfour 
chixse  Mr  John  Anderson,  who  had  just  "  finished  a  regular  course  of  study  in  the  above- 
mentioned  college,  and  engaged  himself  by  a  written  obligation  "  that  the  young  man  "  should 
enjoy  the  office  of  Grammar  Schoolmaster  for  one  year  at  least." 

Anderson  began  his  work,  Whitsunday  1769,  Bedford  being  Session-clerk  and  precentor. 
In  1770,  Redford  removed  to  Stromness,  and  on  his  recommendation,  Buchanan  Spence,  a 
journeyman  shoemaker,  was  appointed  to  lead  the  psalmody.  Spence  gave  perfect  satisfaction, 
but  in  a  very  short  time  he  joined  the  Hudson's  Bay  fleet  and  went  oflF  to  the  "  Nor*- West,  and 
thus  Anderson  fell  into  the  two  offices  which  had  been  held  by  Redford.  In  1775,  however, 
the  latter  gentleman  returned  to  Kirkwall,  and  in  a  minute,  dated  6th  November  of  that  year, 
the  Kirk-Session  nominated  him  Session-clerk  and  precentor,  dispossessing  Anderson : — 
"  This  day  the  Session  chused  Mr  Redford  precentor  in  place  of  Mr  Anderson  ;  they  also 
chused  Mr  Redford  Session  clerk  with  the  ordinary  salary  and  emoluments  ;  and  they  rather 
chuse  Mr  Redford  for  an  encouragement  to  him,  as  there  is  no  stated  salary  in  this  place  for 
an  English  teacher  ;  and  that  such  English  school  is  of  more  benefit  to  the  community  and 
youth  of  town  and  parish  than  the  Grammar  school."  They  also  proposed  to  compound  with 
Mr  Anderson  for  the  shortness  of  notice  by  giving  him  £2  sterling.  That  gentleman,  how- 
ever, believing  that  his  appointments  were  ad  vitam  aut  culpamf  refused  to  take  his  dismissal, 
and  carried  the  case  to  the  Court  of  Session,  calling  the  Kirk-Session,  the  Magistrates,  and 
*  Duncan  McLean,  in  Orcadian.       .     f.  C.  R. 


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272  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

Mr  Bedford  as  respondents.  "  The  action  having  come,  in  the  course  of  the  rolls,  before  Lord 
Westhall,  as  Ordinary,  his  Lordship,  at  the  very  first  calling  of  the  cause,  satisfied  that  there 
was  no  pretence  for  any  such  claim  against  the  respondents,  pronounced  an  absolvitor  in 
their  favor."  * 

As  to  the  precentorship,  it  is  stated  : — "In  the  first  place,  it  is  well  known  that  his 
manner  of  reading  was  disagreeable  to  the  whole  parish."  In  these  days  a  precentor's  elocution 
is  a  matter  of  small  account,  but  in  those  it  was  different.  Not  one-half  of  the  congregation 
could  read,  and  Bibles  and  psalm-books  were  expensive  and  scarce.  The  precentor  accordingly 
read  the  first  two  lines  of  a  verse,  and  after  these  were  sung  he  read  the  next  two,  and  it  was 
a  great  point  to  glide  melodiously  back  from  the  reading  to  the  singing,  the  last  word  of  the 
reading  giving  the  pitch  for  the  first  note  of  the  third  line  of  the  verse.  It  was  also  objected 
that  Mr  Anderson  "  was  an  exceedingly  bad  singer,  and  frequently  misled  the  congregation." 
Under  these  objections  the  case  would  likely  go  against  him  if  he  took  it  to  the  Inner  House ; 
but  how  it  might  go  was  now  of  less  consequence  to  him,  a.s,  in  1779,  he  was  called  "  to  serve 
the  Kirks  of  Stronsay  and  Eday,"  work  which  Mr  Anderson  no  doubt  found  more  lucrative 
and  less  worrying.  !Mr  Pirie  was  then  inducted,  and  did  the  work,  whether  efficiently  or 
otherwise,  for  nearly  ten  years. 

The  new  school  buildings  in  Broad  Street  were  cheap  and  nasty.  After  they  had  been  in 
use  for  fourteen  years,  the  Provost  represented,  March  1789,  that  "the  Floor  of  the  Grammar 
School  is  in  a  bad  condition  and  may  be  a  great  hurt  to  the  children,  as  it  is  only  covered  with 
stones  and  Earth  ;  he  therefore  i)roposed  that  the  floor  of  the  said  school  shall  be  proi)erly 
laid  with  Deals,"  t  and  this  was  done. 

In  the  same  year,  "  the  Council  having  taken  into  consideration  the  state  of  the  Grammar 
School,  and  being  well  informed  of  the  improper  conduct  of  Mr  Pirie,  the  present  Master  of 
that  School,  they  therefore  appoint  the  provost  or  Treasurer  to  intimate  to  the  said  Mr  Pirie 
that  they  are  not  to  supply  him  longer  than  Whitsunday  next,  or  for  the  space  of  six  months 
after  this  intimation  is  made  to  him,  agreeably  to  the  terms  of  his  admission  to  the  school, 
27th  May  1780." 

In  January  1790,  the  "  Council  recommend  to  the  provost  to  write  Mr  Malcolm  Laing, 
Advocate,  requesting  him  to  employ  a  proper  person  as  Grammar  School  Master,  and  to 
acquaint  Mr  Laing  of  the  fixed  salary  and  i>erquisits  belonging  to  the  office."  By  this  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  Town  Council  had  succeeded  in  securing  the  sole  patronage  of  the  school^ 
and  the  Kirk-Session  had  ceased  to  have  any  say  in  its  management. 

Mr  Laing  appointed  Mr  Wm.  Grant,  who  was  inducted  31st  August  1790.  "  He  shall  have 
right  to  the  salaries  and  emoluments  belonging  to  that  office,  particularly  he  shall  have  right 
to  fifteen  raeills  of  malt,  i3ayable  out  of  the  Town  of  Isbister,  and  six  meills  of  malt,  payable 
out  of  the  Island  of  Wyre,  being  one-half  of  the  quantity  of  malt  payable  out  of  these  places 
for  the  present  crop,  1790,  and  that  he  shall  have  right  to  the  whole  malt  payable  out  of  these 
places  yearly  with  the  fees  usually  paid  by  the  schollars."  The  Council  also  promised  that  if 
he  should  have  more  pupils  than  he  could  properly  attend  to,  they  would  "  employ  a  proper 
person  as  Usher  or  Assistant." 

Grant  had  no  sooner  entered  upon  his  duties  than  he  complained  that  the  part  of  the 
school  possessed  by  him  was  too  small,  and  that  some  of  the  children  had  suffered  in  health 
on  that  account.  The  other  part  of  the  building  had  been  used  as  a  private  school  for 
English  classes,  but  now  the  private  school  was  cleared  out,  a  door  knocked  through  the 
partition  wall,  and  Mr  Grant  got  possession  of  the  whole  place. 

After  two  years,  Mr  Grant  and  the  Council  fell  out.  The  teacher  demanded  from  the 
♦  J.  W.  Cursiter's  papers.  t  C.  R. 


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THE  GRAMMAR  SCHOOL.  273 

Treasurer  £10,  which  had  been  retained  off  his  salary.  The  Council  refused  to  pay  because, 
contrary  to  contract,  Mr  Grant  had  become  a  preacher  and  neglected  the  school,  so  that  only 
twenty  scholars  remained.  Besides,  he  lived  at  such  a  distance  that  his  attendance  in  winter 
oould  not  be  regular.  The  Council  therefore  thought  it  best  that  he  should  give  up  the 
school,  and  gave  him  nine  months'  notice  to  that  effect.  Before  leaving,  August  1793,  the 
teacher  again  demanded  payment  of  the  confiscated  ten  pounds,  but  had  to  go  without.  This 
claim  wafl  renewed  from  time  to  time,  till  February  1802,  when  the  Council,  under  threat  of  a 
lawsuit,  agreed  to  pay  the  principal  sum,  but  "  crave  to  have  the  interest  discounted." 

Mr  William  Graham,  English  teacher  in  Kirkwall,  now  applied  for  the  situation  and  got 
it.  In  accepting  office,  3rd  September  1793,  he  writes  that  he  cannot,  without  prejudice  to 
his  health,  teach  longer  than  seven  hours  daily  from  April  to  September,  and  five  and  a-half 
hours  the  rest  of  the  year.  The  fees  were  then  fixed  : — Latin,  Greek,  and  arithmetic,  3s  6d 
per  quarter  ;  "  and  for  Book  Keeping  and  Navigation,  payable  one  guinea." 

After  five  years,  the  office  was  again  vacant,  and  the  Council  for  the  first  time  made  their 
wants  known  through  the  press.  They  gave  instructions  to  advertise  the  situation,  "  for  three 
weeks  successively,"  in  the  Caledonian  Mercury  only.  After  five  months'  vacation,  Mr  James 
Anderson,  from  Drainie  in  Morayshire,  was  put  in  charge  of  the  education  of  the  youth  of 
Kirkwall ;  and  in  the  instructions  given  him  at  his  induction,  there  is  an  inkling  of  the 
trouble  the  Council  had  had  with  some  of  his  predecessors  : — "  And  it  is  hereby  specially 
recommended  to  the  said  James  Anderson  to  keep  regular  hours  for  teaching  his  scholars,  and 
that  he  also  attend  Divine  worship  with  his  scholars  in  the  Loft  belonging  to  them,  and 
behave  in  every  other  manner  of  way  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  are  intrusted  to  his  care." 
The  appointment  was  for  one  year,  with  three  months'  notice  on  either  side,  but  Mr  Anderson 
conducted  the  work  for  nearly  eight  years,  when  he  resigned,  in  November  1807,  to  become 
minister  of  Orphir.  He  died  there,  10th  July  1845.  On  this  occasion  there  was  no  delay  in 
filling  the  place  : — "  Mr  John  Simpson,  at  present  a  private  Teacher  in  Town,  being  suggested 
as  a  fit  person,  was  unanimously  approved  of  by  the  Council  provided  terms  can  be  agreed 
upon." 

The  Magistrates  and  Council,  as  patrons,  agree  that,  "  to  put  the  Grammar  School  upon 
a  proper  footing,  some  Regulations  shall  be  adopted  which,  while  they  tend  to  make  the 
situation  an  object  to  a  well  qualified  teacher,  may  serve  also  to  facilitate  the  improvement  of 
the  scholars."  They  object  to  a  too  "numerous  and  promiscuous  collection  of  children,'^ 
and  they  proceed  to  fine  the  school  down  into  selectness.  "  In  this  view,  an  increase  of  the  fees 
appears  to  be  a  measure  highly  expedient.  At  the  same  time  that  it  will  add  to  the  income  of 
the  Teacher,  it  will,  by  the  removal  of  children  of  the  lower  order  to  schools  more  suitable  to 
their  rank  and  circumstances,"  allow  him  to  give  due  attention  to  the  children  of  parents  whose 
rank  and  means  can  afford  the  increased  expense.  The  fees  were  fixed  at  five  shillings  per 
quarter  for  the  ordinary  branches  of  education,  with  an  increase  for  special  subjects  to  be 
agreed  upon  between  teachers  and  parents.  "  Book- Keeping  and  Navigation  have  been 
usually  paid  for  by  the  piece,"  and  this  system  should  continue,  "  the  teacher  to  have  due 
regard  to  the  circumstances  of  the  parents." 

In  November  1811,  Mr  Simpson  resigned  in  ill-health.  He  was  afterwards  assistant  to 
the  Rev.  Wm.  Clouston,  minister  of  Sand  wick.  In  1819,  he  was  presented  to  the  parish  of 
Delting  by  Thomas,  Lord  Dundas,  who  in  1820  had  him  translated  to  Stronsay  and  Eday. 
He  died  in  Kirkwall,  1859. 

The  clerk  was  now  instructed  to  draw  up  an  advertisement,  which  had  to  be  submitted  to 
Dr  Munro,  Bailie  Scarth,  and  Mr  FoUezfen,  who  were  appointed  a  committee  to  look  out  for 
a  teacher. 

2n 


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274  KIRKWALL   IN  THE   ORKNEYS. 

In  April  of  the  following  year,  Mr  William  Forbes,  of  Aberdeen,  was  inducted.  A  table 
of  conditions  was  drawn  up  and  subscribed  by  the  Provost  and  Clerk,  and  an  attested  copy 
^ven  to  Mr  Forbes  "  to  be  observed  as  his  rule  of  charge."  The  fees  for  reading,  writing, 
arithmetic,  English  grammar,  and  Latin,  6s ;  Greek  and  French,  in  addition,  7s  6d  per 
quarter ;  book-keeping,  navigation,  mathematics,  and  geography,  "  by  the  piece,  as  may  be 
agreed  upon." 

The  annual  vacation  at  this  time  lasted  three  weeks,  and  as  the  Lammas  Fair  was  held 
during  the  holidays,  the  Council,  by  way  of  turning  an  honest  penny,  let  the  school  rooms  as 
shops.  In  1810,  James  Brander,  for  the  south  room  of  the  Grammar  School,  paid  £3  38. 
Next  year  the  rent  had  risen  ;  f(»r  the  north  room  George  Sinclair  paid  £6,  and  for  the  south 
room  Michael  Henderson  paid  £4  43.  The  same  two  merchants  had  the  rooms  on  similar  terms 
the  following  year,  after  which  there  is  no  record  of  the  class-rooms  being  let  for  such  a  purpose. 

In  September  1814,  Robert  Smith  and  others  request  the  use  of  the  end  of  the  Public 
School,  as  they  intend  to  employ  a  teacher  for  the  education  of  their  children,  and  the  Council 
agree  to  fit  it  up  and  grant  the  use  of  it  during  their  pleasure.  "Robert  Smith  and  others" 
may  have  been  "those  of  the  lower  order"  referred  to  above,  seeking  to  establish  a  school 
"**  more  suitable  to  their  rank  and  circumstances "  than  the  Grammar  School  was,  but  more 
probably  they  were  some  of  Mr  Forbes'  own  clients,  who,  having  a  strong  grievance,  took  this 
method  of  giving  it  expression.  Certainly  the  teacher  was  at  this  time  in  hot  water,  but  the 
origin  of  his  trouble  is  not  recorded. 

In  November  the  sore  came  to  a  head.  On  the  twenty-second  of  that  month  "  Mr 
William  Forbes,  Schoolmaster  of  the  Grammar  School,  having  been  called,  appeared  before 
the  Council,  and  stated  that  he  voluntarily  gave  up  his  office  of  schoolmaster  on  the  condition 
that  the  Council  would  pay  him  the  price  of  the  malt  of  the  current  crop  which  he  is  entitled 
to  receive  as  salary  immediately,  or  if  the  Council  wished,  he  would  agree  to  teach  other  three 
months  upon  being  paid  a  portion  of  next  year's  salary." 

When  a  man  gives  up  his  situation  voluntarily  upon  certain  conditions,  it  may  be  inferred 
that  his  employers  have  asked  him  to  resign.  In  this  case  the  claim  for  malt  was  at  once 
conceded.  Mr  Forbes  was  entitled  to  forty-two  meills — thirty  from  Lord  Dundas,  and  twelve 
from  Sir  William  Honyman.  Accordingly  the  Council  paid  the  price,  .£42,  free  of  duty,  and 
allowed  Mr  Forbes  to  depart  forthwith,  not  accepting  his  oflfer  to  conduct  the  school  for  other 
three  months. 

The  clerk  was  now  instructed  "  to  correspond  with  the  Revd.  Mr  Logic,  of  Sanday,  to  see 
whether  Mr  Dunn,  schoolmaster  of  that  island,  would  be  willing  to  accept  the  situation."  This 
gentleman  declined  for  himself,  but  recommended  Mr  James  Simpson,  "  presently  at  Oldrig." 
On  Mr  Simpson's  refusal,  Mr  Duguid,  minister  of  Evie,  proposed  his  nephew  for  the  situation. 
A  new  table  of  fees  was  drawn  up  :— Reading,  Writing,  and  Arithmetic,  3s  per  quarter; 
Grammar  and  Latin,  5s  ;  Greek  and  French,  7s  6d  ;  Navigation,  Mathematics,  and  Geography, 
as  formerly,  '*  by  the  piece."  This  was  sent  to  Mr  Duguid,  along  with  a  statement  of  the 
fixed  salary,  and  he  was  asked  to  write  to  his  nephew.  The  young  man  declined  the  offer, 
and  nearly  a  year  had  elapsed  when  a  petition  was  sent  to  the  Council  by  some  of  the 
inhabitants  praying  that,  "as  the  Grammar  School  has  now  been  long  vacant,  Alexander 
Gordon,  a  young  man  presently  in  Orkney,  should  be  appointed  as  interim  teacher." 
The  Council  declined  to  make  the  appointment,  Jis  the  young  man  was  a  dissenter  and  the 
Presbytery  might  object,  but  they  answered  that  they  would  be  perfectly  satisfied  that  the 
inhabitants  of  the  burgh  should  employ  him  as  teacher.  Accordingly,  Mr  Gordon  did  the 
work  for  four  months,  receiving  from  the  parents  the  fees  as  fixed  by  the  Council,  and  158  per 
week  from  the  Burgh  Treasurer. 


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THE   GRAMMAR  SCHOOL.  275 

In  January'  1816,  Mr  David  Paterson  came  to  Kirkwall  to  be  scliooliniister.  He  i^ 
described  by  one  of  his  pupils  as  "  a  tall,  raw-boned  man,  and  somewhat  of  a  tyrant."  He  di4 
good  work,  however,  and  he  certainly  sent  out  one  distinguished  pupil,  Samuel  Laing,  after- 
wards M.P.  for  Orkney  and  Shetland. 

During  Paterson*s  incumbency  the  income  of  the  school  was  again  subjectetl  to  spoliation,, 
this  time  at  the  hands  of  the  church.  Paterson  writes  to  the  magistrates,  9th  December  1819, 
that  the  Teind  Court  had  allocated  to  the  minister  of  Kousay  the  12  meills  of  malt  formerly 
paid  to  the  schoolmaster  from  the  island  of  Wyre,  and  asks  the  Council  to  appeal.  The 
Council  refused  to  do  so,  and  perhaps  on  that  account,  the  same  month  "  David  Balfour 
mortified  £500  for  the  use  of  the  teacher,  on  the  condition  that  he  teach  free  eight  children 
nominated  by  him  or  his  heirs." 

In  the  beginning  of  1818,  the  Council  considered  that  the  school  building  in  Broad 
Street,  which  had  never  been  satisfactory,  should  be  superseded  by  a  more  suitable  and  com- 
modious edifice,  and  called  for  subscriptions,  heading  the  list  with  £300  from  the  Burgh, 
funds.  The  matter  was  taken  up  by  the  county  magnates,  and  as  the  Assembly  Room  in  the 
Town  Hall  was  too  small  for  the  gay  and  festive  throng  which  periodically  gathered  there,  it- 
was  proposed  to  add  a  ball-room  to  the  school  buildings. 

The  next  idea  was  to  add  accommodation  for  the  Sheriff  Court,  and  the  Council  proceeded 
to  erect  a  "  new  school  and  County  Hall,"  which,  when  completed,  should  comprise  *•  a  public 
school,  a  schoolmaster's  dwelling-house,  an  apartment  for  a  public  library,  a  county  room,  and 
the  requisite  accommodation  for  the  Sheriff's  Court." 

With  regard  to  a  site  there  was  in  the  Council  no  diversity  of  opinion.  The  whol^ 
churchyard  space  on  the  north  side  of  St.  Magnus  was  then  simply  a  grazing  ground  in  which 
there  had  been  no  burials.  It  was  in  the  middle  of  the  town,  and  therefore  the  most  suitable 
place.  A  feu  was  obtained  from  the  Kirk  Session.  The  Town  Clerk  was  instructed,  2nd 
April  1818,  to  "  purchase  2000  feet  of  American  wood,  part  of  the  cargo  lately  wrecked  in 
Strousay."  A  plan  and  estimate  by  Deacon  Macpherson,  for  a  building  to  cost  £686,  was 
approved  of,  when  the  Convener  of  the  County  applied  for  a  Record  Room  and  an  apartment 
for  County  meetings.*  He  was  informed  that  this  would  require  another  wing,  and  would 
bring  the  cost  up  to  £1000.  The  Burgh  had  contributed  £300  ;  Stewart's  Trust,  £50.  They 
would  try  to  get  private  subscriptions,  but  the  County  must  take  up  the  balance.  This  was 
agreed  upon  ;  operations  were  begun  close  alongside  of  the  Cathedral ;  and  the  walls  already 
ahowed  the  form  and  area  of  the  contemplated  structure  when  the  work  was  abruptly  stopped. 

Sheritf  Peterkin,  whose  researches  into  the  internal  history  of  Orkney  are  of  the  highest 
practical  importance,  added  to  his  other  valuable  services  to  the  County  this,  that,  by  an 
interdict,  he  prevented  the  well-meaning  local  Goths  from  rearing  a  huge  incongruous  pile 
against  the  venerable  walls  of  the  ancient  church.  A  committee  consisting  of  three  excellent 
men — Messrs  Malcolm  Laing,  Thomas  Pollexfen,  and  James  Spence— was  appointed  to  deal 
with  the  interdict,  and  Bailie  Pollexfen  was  able  in  a  short  time  to  report  that  a  statement  of 
facts  had  been  transmitted  to  the  King's  Remembrancer,  "  and  hopes  are  entertained  that  the 
order  for  the  interdict  will  soon  be  countermanded.  The  work,  however,  must  stop  in  the 
meantime,  which  is  much  to  be  regretted,  as  the  loss  thereby  occasioned  will  be  considerable^ 
and  if  long  retarded  the  damage  will  be  great."  The  committee  next  waited  by  appointment 
upon  Mr  £rskine,  the  Sheriff  of  the  County,  ''for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  situation  of  the 
proposed  school  and  obtaining  the  removal  of  the  interdict.  The  committee  found  that  in  the 
Town's  Charter  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus,  with  the  lands  around  the  same,  is  particularly 
granted  to  the  Corporation  in  perpetuity  by  James  III.,  and  that  the  right  of  the  Exchequer  to 

.♦C.  R.,  1st  May  1818, 


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276  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

interfere  is  very  doubtful.  The  committee  found,  however,  that  Mr  Erekine  is  extremely 
averse  to  the  present  situation,  and  offers  to  support  any  plan  which  would  obviate  the 
objections  of  the  Barons  of  Exchequer  to  the  present  site/* 

Finding  that  they  could  not  get  the  interdict  removed,  the  Council  began  seriously  to 
consider  the  necessity  of  building  in  another  locality  and  naturally  expected  from  the 
Exchequer  a  feu  on  easy  terms.  The  Butts,  a  yard  lying  at  the  back  of  Victoria  Street,  waa 
proposed,  but  was  at  once  rejected  as  utterly  unsuitable  '*in  respect  of  size,  situation,  and 
value."  A  part  of  Brandiquoy  ea^t  of  the  Earl's  Palace  next  came  under  negotiation,  but 
terms  could  not  be  satisfactorily  arranged. 

Meanwhile  the  condition  of  the  old  building  was  getting  worse.  Mr  Paterson  wrote  to 
the  Council  **  that  the  present  school-house  is  in  so  ruinous  a  state,  not  being  wind  or  water 
tight,  that  the  education  of  the  children  is  either  at  a  stand  or  carried  on  at  the  risk  of  their 
health."  As  a  result  of  this  letter,  the  Council  granted  the  use  of  the  Assembly  Room,  30th 
December  1818. 

Mr  Gillespie,  architect,  was  then  asked  to  prepare  a  plan  for  a  school  to  accommodate 
150  boys,  "  so  constructed  as  to  be  occupied  as  one  school,  or  to  be  converted  into  two,  as 
circumstances  may  require."  The  Council  at  first  believed  that  the  Brandiquoy  site  was  to  be 
given  free  of  all  conditions  but  a  feu  ;  they,  however,  found  that  Government  meant  them  not 
only  to  vacate  the  churchyard  and  clear  out  what  had  already  been  built,  but  they  were  also 
expected  to  give  up  all  rights  the  Burgh  had  in  the  Cathedral.  When  this  view  of  the  case 
was  brought  before  them,  they  took  firm  ground,  and  positively  refused  to  surrender  "  the 
rights  which  the  Kirk  Session,  the  Magistrates,  or  private  individuals  have  always  enjoyed  to 
the  seats  in  the  Kirk  ;  the  rights  which  families  and  individuals  have  to  burial  ground  both 
within  and  without  the  Kirk  ;  the  right  of  holding  the  meetings  for  the  annual  elections  of  the 
Magistrates,  which  by  the  sett  of  the  Burgh  is  directed  to  be  held  within  the  Kirk,  a  deviation 
from  which  might  subvert  the  constitution  of  the  Burgh  ;  the  right  of  the  Kirk  Ses.sion  to  the 
seats  and  seat  rents  ;  the  clergyman's  right  of  pasturing  the  ground  (not  used  as  a  burial 
ground)  lying  to  the  north  of  the  Kirk,  which  he  has  enjoyed  from  time  immemorial ;  and  even 
the  right  or  interest  which  the  Heritors,  both  of  the  Burgh  and  parish,  have  in  St.  Magnus 
as  a  Parish  Church." 

And  now,  when  popular  opinion  had  turned  against  the  churchyard  site,  while  Brandiquoy 
could  only  be  acquired  under  intolerable  conditions,  and  no  other  bit  of  public  property  was 
available,  the  Magistrates  and  Council  were  delighted  to  be  able  to  report  that  they  had 
*^  resolved  to  accept  the  handsome  offer  of  Samuel  Laing,  Esq.,  who,  sensible  of  the  great  loss 
and  inconvenience  which  the  community  sustain  by  the  want  of  a  proper  place  of  education,  has 
generously  made  offer  of  a  piece  of  ground  which  will  answer  the  intended  purpose."  This 
was  a  corner  of  the  lands  of  Papdale  which  Mr  Laing  granted  to  the  Burgh  *'  on  a  perpetual 
few  and  for  a  trifling  few  duty."*  Here  the  new  Grammar  School  was  built  by  James  Allan, 
who  had  come  to  Kirkwall  to  build  the  pier.  Each  individual  member  of  the  Council 
constituted  himself  clerk  of  the  works,  and  watched  the  progress  of  the  building  with  keen 
interest.  When  the  walls  were  pretty  well  up,  one  of  them  was  found  to  be  **  bulging  "  and 
had  to  be  straightened.  It  is  to  be  feared  that  under  such  strict  supervision  Mr  Allan  would 
make  little  profit  by  his  contract ;  however,  he  seemed  well  enough  pleased  with  Kirkwall,  for 
he  settled  in  the  town  and  died  at  a  ripe  old  age  a  member  of  the  Secession  Church. 

The  following  letter+  shows  the  generous  interest  which  Mr  Laing  took  in  the  education 
of  the  youth  of  Kirkwall : — 

*  £12  Scots.  t  Favoured  by  J.  W.  Cursiter,  Esq. 


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THE  GRAMMAR  SCHOOL.  277 

"  Carrick,  Eda,  20  July  1830. 
*'  Dear  Sirs, — It  will  give  me  great  pleasure  to  contribute  to  an  Establishment  so  useful  to  tho 
community  as  the  proposed  Infant  School  by  feuing  the  ground  required  for  the  site  of  the 
building  in  the  situation  you  point  out  as  the  most  eligible  behind  the  New  School  House.  If  yea 
will  lay  out  the  area  and  order  a  feu  Charter  to  be  made  out  in. favour  of  the  Trustees  of  the 
Establishment  and  their  Successors  in  office,  with  a  nominal  feu  Duty  of  course — such  as  a  peoDy 
Soots  if  demanded — I  will  be  niost  happy  to  sign  the  necessary  Papers  when  prepared.  And  with 
the  wanAest  wishes  for  the  succeita  of  an  institution  so  useful  and  so  honourable  to  the  county,^-I 
remain,  Dear  Sirs,  yours  most  obedientlie,  (Signed)        Samuel  Laing. 

"  To  James  Baikie,  Esq. ;  William  Traill,  Esq.  ;  Th.  Graham,  Esq.  ;  and  the  other  Gentlemen 
of  the  Committee  for  establishing  an  Infant  School." 

In  1820,  Mr  Paterson,  with  his  charge,  moved  into  the  new  building. 

The  Council  now  proposed  to  the  Barons  of  Exchequer  "that  the  triangular  piece  of 
ground  on  the  east  side  of  the  churchyard  be  put  under  charge  of  the  Grammar  Schoolmaster 
of  Kirkwall  for  play  ground  to  the  boys  of  his  school,  but  to  be  applied  to  no  other  purpose, 
and  the  privilege  to  be  a  mere  tolerance,  revocable  at  pleasure  by  the  Barons."  This  waa 
granted,  but  in  1839  the  "  revocable  at  pleasure "  clause  came  into  operation,  when,  to  the 
disappointment  of  everybody,  the  Commissioners  of  Her  Majesty's  Woods  and  Forests  with- 
drew the  "  privilege,"  refusing  compensation  for  improvements. 

Among  other  questions  raised  by  the  building  of  the  new  school  was  the  consideration 
whether  the  Council  should  continue  it  under  a  headmaster  and  an  assistant  or  break  it  up 
into  two  schools— in  the  latter  case,  the  Council  to  have  the  presentation  to  both. 

The  Magistrates  were  quite  pleased  with  their  school,  and  they  got  permission  from  the 
King's  Remembrancer  to  build  a  dwelling-house  for  the  teacher  "  on  the  east  angle  of  the 
triangular  piece  of  ground  on  the  east  side  of  the  churchyard."  Th6y  gave  £3  10s  for  prize 
books,  and  they  empowered  Mr  Paterson  "  to  impose  a  fine  upon  scholars  injuring  the  tables, 
seats,  or  building."  Finally,  the  Treasurer  was  authorised  "  to  sell  by  public  roup  the  table, 
forms,  etc.,  of  the  old  school  which  were  left  after  furnishing  the  new  school." 

But  Mr  Paterson  was  getting  tired  of  his  work  in  Kirkwall,  and  wanted  a  change.  In 
1822,  he  span  out  the  summer  vacation  of  three  weeks  to  eight,  lingering  in  the  south  looking 
for  another  situation.  The  Provost,  "on  the  complaint  of  several  of  the  most  respectable 
inhabitants,"  wrote  him  a  kindly  letter,  the  terms  of  which  show  that  Mr  Paterson's  work 
was  much  appreciated  by  the  townspeople.  He  at  once  returned  ;  and  in  February  1823,  we 
find  him,  as  a  representative  man,  signing  a  petition,  along  with  Sheriff  Peterkin  and  Robert 
Pringle,  towards  getting  a  new  parish  church  in  Kirkwall.  After  the  summer  vacation  of 
that  year,  however,  he  "  took  upon  him,  13th  Oct.,  without  asking  or  obtaining  permission,  to 
desert  the  School  and  go  to  the  South  Country  by  the  *  Eliza,' "  packet,  "  leaving  the  School 
and  the  instruction  of  Scholars  to  a  young  boy,  James  Copland  (a  Seceder).  And  it  being 
reported  that  James  Copland  was  also  preparing  to  leave  Orkney,  the  Provost  made  enquiry 
at  him  as  to  the  truth  of  the  report,  and  requested  an  answer  in  writing,  which  was  given,  and 
is  now  laid  before  the  Council.  That  the  *  Sir  Joseph  Banks,'  Packet,  sailed  for  Leith  yester- 
day, and  James  Copland,  having  abandoned  the  charge  of  the  school,  went  pa,ssenger  by  that 
vessel ;  so  that  now  the  school  is  completely  deserted,  and  the  key  is  lodged  in  the  hands  of 
the  Town  Clerk."  The  Council  had  no  address  if  they  wished  to  communicate  with  Mr 
Paterson,  so  they  regarded  his  desertion  as  a  fault,  and  dismissed  him.  In  revenge,  "Mr 
Paterson  published  a  satirical  pamphlet  in  rhyme,"  holding  the  Kirkwall  gentry  up  to 
ridicule. 

Meanwhile  the  school  was  vacant,  and  in  this  emergency  Mr  Dunn,  minister  of  the 
Second  Charge  in  St.  Magnus,  who  had  in  1815  been  offered  the  mastership,  undertook  to 
carry  on  the  work  for  a  short  time,  and  the  key  was  handed  to  him  with  thanks. 


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278  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  office  was  again  advertised,  and  we  learn,  2nd  February  1824,  "of  the  numerous 
candidates  for  the  situation  of  teacher,  Mr  James  Craig,  Schoolmaster,  Drumelzier,  and 
Mr  John  McEwen,  at  Markinch,  are  the  two  most  eligible,  and  as  the  Provost*  intends 
going  to  Edinburgh  soon,  he  is  hereby  authorised  to  engage  either  of  them,  assisted  by  the 
advice  of  the  Rev.  Dr  Bruntont  or  Professor  Pillans."  In  making  the  appointment,  the 
Provost  was  empowered  to  state  that  if  the  number  of  scholars  should  exceed  sixty,  the 
Council  would  employ  an  assistant.  A  letter  from  the  Provost  was  laid  before  the  Council, 
16th  March  1824,  in  which  he  states  that  he  had  chosen  Mr  Craig,  who  would  leave  for 
Kirkwall  by  the  first  packet  from  Leith.  The  same  day  an  account  from  the  General  News- 
paper Office,  Edinburgh,  for  advertising  the  situation,  was  presented — £3  Os  lOj^d — and  paid. 
On  the  20th  April,  Mr  Craig  arrived,  and  the  Council,  though  perfectly  satisfied  as  to  his 
character  and  qualifications,  "  remit  him  to  the  Presbytery  for  examination."  He  was  then 
presented  with  a  certified  copy  of  the  rates  of  school  fees,  and  was  recommended  to  demand 
them  quarterly  in  advance. 

The  number  of  scholars  soon  exceeded  sixty,  for  in  four  months  after  his  appointment, 
we  find  Mr  Craig  writing  to  the  Council  requesting  that  they  would  appoint  Robert  Borwick 
his  assistant,  which  they  did,  granting  him  £10  yearly  from  the  burgh  funds. 

During  the  long  correspondence  between  the  Council  and  the  Crown  authorities  con- 
cerning a  site  for  the  school,  the  Barons  of  Exchequer,  as  has  been  seen,  granted  space  for  a 
house  and  garden  for  the  teacher  in  the  triangular  bit  of  Brandiquoy,  lying  to  the  east  of  St. 
Magnus  Churchyard,  "  during  their  pleasure."  As  this  tenure  was  somewhat  precarious,  the 
house  was  not  built,  but  the  garden  ground  was  used  by  the  teacher.  Of  this,  Mr  Dunn, 
during  his  temporary  mastership,  took  possession,  and  when  it  should  have  been  handed  over 
to  Mr  Craig,  it  was  found  that  the  minister  had  ploughed  it  up  with  the  intention  of  sowing 
oats.  This,  of  course,  was  prohibited,  and  a  petition  was  sent  to  the  King's  Remembrancer 
requesting  that  he  would  continue  the  use  of  the  ground  to  Mr  Craig  during  his  incumbency, 

Mr  Craig's  work  in  Kirkwall  is  still  held  in  affectionate  remembrance  by  many  of  his  old 
pupils.  He  resigned  on  account  of  failing  health,  and  died  26th  July  1861.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son-in-law,  Mr  John  Watson,  in  whose  hands  the  school  was  when,  in  1872, 
after  the  passing  of  the  Education  Act,  the  Grammar  School,  a  Subscription  School,  and  an 
Infant  School  were  by  the  School  Board  amalgamated  and  formed  into  what  is  now  known  as 
the  Burgh  School  of  Kirkwall.  It  was  at  this  time  also  that  the  Isbister  Mortification,  the 
last  of  the  school's  many  endowments,  was  lost  for  educational  purposes. 

Since  1872  there  have  been  two  headmasters— Mr  John  Beaumont  and  Mr  John  McEwen. 
Under  Mr  McEwen's  rectorship,  Mr  Craig's  sixty  pupils  have  increased  to  six  hundred,  and 
for  efficient  work  the  Burgh  School  of  Kirkwall  holds  a  position  second  to  none  in  the  north 
of  Scotland. 

*  Samuel  Laing. 

t  Dr  Brunton's  connection  with  Orkney  was  that  he  was  oiarried  to  Mary,  daughter  of  Colonel 
Thomas  Balfour  of  Elwick. 


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CHAPTER  XVI. 

Palace  Street. 

JETWEEN  the  school  and  the  palace  there  were  two  houses  described  as  the  "  ludgeing 

^  or  long  tenement  built  upon  the  calsay  of  the  sd.  Burgh,  bounded  betwixt  tho 
yairds  of  old  belonging  to  the  Colledge  on  the  south,  the  calsay  or  street  towards 
the  churchyaird  on  the  north,  the  towr  of  the  palace  on  the  east,  and  the  Gramar  School  of 
ye  sd.  Burgh  and  close  yrof  on  ye  west." 

The  house  next  the  Tower  was  given  by  Bishop  Honyman  to  his  son,  Robert,  and  his 
wife,  Catherine  Graham,  and,  in  1681,  Bishop  Mackenzie,  with  consent  of  the  Session,  sold  the 
other  to  Marjorie,  daughter  of  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound. 

Robert  Honyman,  who  occupied  **the  east  pairt  of  the  long  tenement,"  was  a  publio 
spirited  man.  In  January  1681,  he  gave  £10()  towards  the  repair  of  the  steeple  of  tho 
Cathedral,  which  had  been  destroyed  by  fire  ten  years  before.  In  1699,  his  son,  Robert^ 
purchased  the  estate  of  Grsemsay  from  Harry  Graham  of  Breckness,  who  had  three  years 
previously  acquired  it  from  James  Stewart  of  Graemsay. 

In  1725,  while  living  at  Clestron,  part  of  the  Graemsay  estate,  Robert  Honyman  had  a 
visit  from  Gow  and  his  crew.  There  were  at  that  time  no  banks  in  Orkney,  and  the  laird  of 
Graemsay  had  a  considerable  amount  of  money  in  the  house.  In  the  short  time  at  her 
disposal,  Mrs  Honyman,  a  daughter  of  Harry  Graham  of  Breckness,  had  the  cash  box  removed, 
to  one  of  the  attics,  where,  ripping  open  a  couple  of  feather  beds,  she  threw  the  contents  over 
it.  The  pirates  searched  every  room  in  the  house,  and  when  they  came  to  this  particular 
garret,  Gow  called  his  men  away,  telling  them  not  to  spoil  their  clothes  with  feathers  searching 
that "  damned  cockloft." 

Shortly  afterwards  Mr  Honyman,  requiring  to  go  to  Edinburgh,  provided  for  the  safety  of 
his  treasure  by  burying  it  in  the  ground.  In  doing  so  he  had  the  help  of  a  trusted  servant, 
who  next  day  started  with  him  on  his  southern  journey.  But  in  crossing  the  Pentlaud  Firth 
the  boat  went  down  with  all  on  board,  and  the  buried  treasure  to  this  day  remains  undis- 
covered.*   Robert's  son,  William,  got  Gairsay,  and  became  William  Honyman  Craigie. 

A  great-grandson  of  Robert  Honyman  sat  on  the  Scottish  bench  as  Lord  Armadale.  He 
married  a  daughter  of  Robert  McQueen,  Lord  Braxfield.  This  lady  must  have  witnessed 
some  queer  scenes  in  her  youth.  Those  were  the  old  swearing  days,  when  a  sounding  expletive 
was  considered  rather  an  offset  to  conversation.  It  is  told  of  Lord  Braxfield  that  on  one 
occasion  when  playing  whist  he  swore  at  his  partner,  a  lady.  She  resented  the  rudeness, 
when  he  at  once  apologised—"  I  beg  your  pardon,  madam,  but  for  the  moment  I  thought  you 
were  my  wife." 

*  The  tradition  of  the  burying  of  the  cash -box  is  probably  inaccurate,  and  it  ia  likely  that  ths 
gold  went  down  with  its  owner,  who  was  carrying  it  for  safety  to  Edinburgh. 


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280  KIRKWALL   IN  THE   ORKNEYS. 

Robert  McQueen,  Esq.  of  Braxfield,  advocate,  wjis  enrolled  among  the  barona  of  this 
county,  8th  November  1796.  ♦ 

Lord  Armadale  was  created  a  baronet  in  1804.  The  marriage  of  his  eldest  son,  Richard 
Bempte  Johnston,  was  the  subject  of  a  most  remarkable  lawsuit. 

In  1811,  Lord  Armadale  had  in  his  hou.se  as  governess  to  his  daughters  a  Miss  Campbell, 
just  about  Mr  Richard's  age,  and  between  the  two  an  attachment  arose  which  was  carefully 
concealed  from  the  Honyman  family.  In  1812,  Mr  Richard  Honyman  was  elected  member  of 
Parliament  for  Orkney,  and  continued  frequently  to  meet  Miss  Campbell  both  in  Scotland  and 
in  London.  Many  letters  passed  between  them,  and  all  of  his  at  this  time  expressed  strong 
honourable  love.     Here  are  extracts  from  one  written  in  February  1813  : — 

"  30  Duke  Street,  St.  James. 
**  You  will  probably  have  conceived  by  the  time  which  I  have  suffered  to  elapse  since  the 
permission  which  you  so  kindly  granted  me,  that  I  did  not  intend  availing  myself  of  it ;  but  so 
bewildered  and  agonised  have  I  been  since  our  separation,  that  I  have  been  unable  to  give  utterance 
to  my  feelings,  or  form  one  rational  sentiment  even  to  her  who  is  the  tenderest  object  of  my  regards. 
Would  that  we  were  once  again  together,  and  nothins  shall  separate  us.  I  look  forward  with  rapture 
to  our  again  meeting,  and  tnen  we  must  form  plans  for  putting  our  feelings  out  of  the  reach  of  Fate. 
I  intend  being  with  you  much  sooner  than  I  intended.  From  the  embarrassed  state  of  my  father's 
affikirs,  my  residing  in  Liondon  is  both  improper  and  disagreeable,  and  it  was  only  to  please  him  that  I 
ever  went.  God  knows  how  bad  a  politician  I  shall  make,  and  I  would  resiffn  such  a  situation  with 
great  happiness.  I  went  yesterday  and  paid  a  visit  to  the  outside  of  No.  8  Millman  Street.  The 
blinds  were  up  and  the  windows  open.  Oh  !  thought  I,  they  have  a  different  inmat«  in  the  house 
now  to  what  they  had  when  I  knew  it,  and  the  conclusion  sunk  deeply  in  my  heart.  Believe  me,  I 
feel  a  fondness  for  the  house,  for  it  was  once  the  abode  of  Eliza.  I  took  a  most  accurate  survey  of  it. 
The  windows  were  new  painted,  and  there  was  th^  little  Chambers,  who  took  such  an  insurmountable 
antipathy  to  me,  looking  out  of  them.  You  will  receive  this  on  Monday,  and  write  soon.  God  bless 
you,  thou  dearest  girl.  Again  farewell,  and  believe  me,  with  an  attachment  strong  as  it  is  pure, 
yours  most  affectionately,  (Signed)        R.  6.  J.  Honyman.'^ 

To  the  amazement  and  consternation  of  Lord  Armadale's  household,  on  the  27th  of  May 
1814,  the  governess  became  the  mother  of  a  little  girl,  the  father  being  R.  B.  J.  Honyman, 
M.P.  for  Orkney.  How  this  poor  bantling  was  welcomed  by  its  father's  relatives  is  shown  by 
a  letter  written  to  the  papa  : — **  You  know  how  and  in  what  manner  Elizabeth  was  brought 
into  this  world,  and  that  in  seventeen  hours  afterwards  I  left  Smyllum  for  Edinburgh  with 
her,  naked  as  she  was  born.'' 

On  the  27th  May,  exactly  two  years  after  the  first,  another  little  girl,  Alexa,  was  born. 
This  apparently  illicit  intercourse  continued  till  1823,  the  mother  supporting  herself  and  the 
two  children.  She  had  £400  of  her  own  when  she  left  her  situation,  and  it  la.sted  her  for  ten 
years,  but  in  1824  she  was  unable  to  pay  her  rent  and  was  thrown  into  jail  for  debt.  From 
the  prison  she  made  a  piteous  appeal,  not  for  herself  but  for  her  bairns  : — "  Your  children  are 
starving  and  almost  naked,  going  without  a  shoe  on  their  poor  feet.  Is  it  possible  you  can 
know  this  and  not  do  something  for  them  1  Do  send  them  something  by  the  coach  on 
Monday."  She  asks  nothing  for  herself  and  gets  it ;  but  he  writes  : — "  I  send  five  pounds  for 
them,  and  shall  not  send  anything  more  until  a  settlement  takes  place.  Indiscreet  woman,  to 
send  your  letter  wafered  with  a  dry  wafer."  Mr  Honyman  was  then  staying  at  his  father's 
country  house,  Smyllum,  and  the  coach  referred  to  was  that  which  ran  between  Edinburgh 
and  Glasgow. 

She  shows  what  had  been  done  for  the  children  by  their  father : — "  I  shall  have  no 
hesitation  in  affirming  most  solemnly  at  any  time  that  from  the  day  of  Elizabeth's  birth,  on  the 
27th  of  May  1814,  and  that  of  her  sister,  Alexa,  on  the  27th  of  May  1816, 1  never  received  one 
sixpence  for  ten  years  for  their  support."    She  always  signs  herself  '*  Elizabeth  Honyman." 

*  See  ante,  p.  138. 


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PALACE  STREET,  281 

At  Icmp^h,  for  her  children's  sake,  she  determined  to  prove  her  marriage.  The  case  camd 
on  in  1831,  and  went  to  the  House  of  Lords,  where  it  was  decided  in  her  favour.  Brougham, 
the  Lord  Chancellor,  in  an  eloquent  speech,  says  : — **  I  desire  to  be  understood  as  saying  that 
thi»  lady's  conduct  stands  as  pure  and  unimpeached  as  that  of  any  party  who  ever  came  to 
thi»  bar." 

A  phrase  in  his  letter  and  a  clause  in  Lord  Brougham's  speech  may  partly  account  for  Mr 
Hony man's  unnatural  conduct  to  his  wife.  He  speaks  of  the  embarrassed  state  of  his  father's 
affairs,  and  Lord  Brougham  says  : — '*  I  desire  to  have  it  understood  as  no  part  of  my  opinion 
that  my  Lord  Armadale's  son,  or  Sir  William  Hony man's  son,  even  if  he  had  been  a  wealthy 
baronet,  instead  of  one  in  moderate  circumstaticesj  would  have  been  at  all  degraded  by  marriage 
with  a  lady  of  whose  accomplishments  I  have  his  own  admission,  whose  charms  he  is  the 
loudest  to  speak  forth,  and  whose  virtue,  whose  purity  of  character  is  entirely  unimpeached  by 
the  evidence  the  result  of  the  scrutiny  to  which  it  has  been  subjected." 

It  WHS  the  often  enacted  drama  of  real  life.  The  impecunious  man,  the  man  who  is  not 
paying  his  way,  can  scarcely  be  honourable.  First,  from  family  pride,  at  which  Lord 
Brougham  laughs,  Mr  Hony  man  conceals  his  marriage  ;  then,  unable  to  support  his  wife  and 
their  children,  he  becomes  ashamed,  and,  in  almost  natural  sequence,  neglects,  deserts,  and 
repudiates.  Her  marriage  established,  direct  communication  ceased,  and  Sir  Richard  died 
in  1842,  leaving  no  male  heir.    The  title  went  to  his  brother. 

The  Stewarts,  from  whom  Graemsay  was  bought,  were  not  a  model  family.  The  first 
Stewart  of  Graemsay  was  James,  a  natural  son  of  Robert,  Earl  of  Orkney,  and  Janet,  daughter 
of  Alexander  Robertson  of  Strowan.  He  married  Helen  Monteith,  and  was  succeeded  by 
Harie.  Next  came  James,  who  married,  first,  Katherine,  daughter  of  Thomas  Buchanan  of 
Sound,  and,  second,  Isobel  Bruce.  The  latter  lady  was  liferented  in  Graemsay,  but  gave  that 
up  for  an  annuity,  the  surplus  going  to  liquidate  debts  contracted  by  the  eldest  son,  James. 
This  annuity  was  "  300  merks  Scots.,  32  meils  of  malt,  16  meils  meal,  good  and  sufficient  stuff 
upon  the  common  malt  pundlar  of  Orkney,  as  also  all  and  sundrie  the  small  casualties  due 
and  payable  out  of  the  sd.  yle  of  Graemsay  sch  as  butter,  oyle,  poultrie,  flesh,  and  peatts." 

Whether  over  James'  debts  or  about  other  matters,  there  was,  in  1689,  sad  strife  in  the 
Graemsay  family.  It  seems  to  have  been  the  often-told  tale  of  an  unreasonable  father  and  an 
obstinate  son.  Twelve  years  before  this  the  young  man  had  been  seized  by  his  father  in  the 
family  estate,  "  heritably  and  irredeemably,"  subject  of  course  to  liferent.  Now  the  father 
protests  against  the  son's  occupying  his  domicile  with  its  plenishings,  whether  Graemsay  or 
Clestrain,  is  not  shown. 

The  son  complained  that  he  had  been  "  met  by  the  father  with  blows  of  a  cane,"  and  that 
he  had  been  threatened  with  a  sword.  He  stated  also  that  the  old  gentleman  had  driven  his 
daughter  Lillias  out  of  Graemsay  without  any  allowance  for  maintenance. 

When  James  Stewart  did  succeed,  he  found  that  he  could  pay  his  debts  only  by  selling 
his  property.  Accordingly,  13th  March  1696,  Graemsay  passed  to  Harry  Graham  of  Breck- 
ness,  who,  three  years  later,*  sold  it  to  his  son-in-law,  Robert  Honyman,  grandson  of  the 
Bishop. 

Besides  the  island,  the  estate  included  the  Holms  of  Cairston,  Clestrain,  the  Bu*  of 
Orphir,  the  Cairlin  Skerry,+  the  Mill  of  Kirbister,  besides  some  quoys  in  Ireland,  in  the  parish 
of  Stenness. 

About  1697,  William  Orem,  Notary  Public  and  Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall,  secured  Marjorie 
Buchanan's  house,  which  was  joined  to  the  east  gable  of  the  Grammar  School,  and  in  the  year 
specified  he  acquired  from  the  Town  Council  "  the  piece  of  ground  lying  directly  opposite  to 
♦  24th  Feb.  1699.        t  Barrel  of  Butter  Rock. 

20 


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282  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

the  side  wall  of  his  dwelling-house  from  the  one  gable  to  the  other  where  he  now  presently 
resides,  extending  to  twenty  foots  from  the  easing  drop  outwards  to  the  high  street  or  calsey 
that  goes  up  to  the  King's  house,  and  that  for  building  the  toofall  tliat  is  since  builded 
thereon."  At  the  same  time  he  got  as  a  privilege  only  "the  peat  ground  presently  posaest* 
by  the  said  Wm.  Orem,  running  from  the  west  gavil  of  his  said  dwelling-house  down  alongst 
the  Grammar  School  dyke  to  the  outer  gate  of  the  same,  extending  to  twenty  foots  in  breadth 
and  no  more." 

This  property  remained  in  the  hands  of  Oram's  descendants  till  1823,  when  it  was 
purchased  by  Hay  Elrick,  watchmaker.  This  man,  proceeding  on  his  rights  to  the  "  twenty 
foots''  granted  to  the  ancient  Town  Clerk,  erected  the  house  which  now  stands  in  bold 
ugliness  in  front  of  the  old  College  buildings.  Elrick's  intrusion  was  resented  by  the  Town 
Council,  and  interdict  was  taken  out  against  him,  but  we  have  monumental  proof  that  the 
interdict  was  withdrawn,  though  there  is  not  the  slightest  doubt  that  Orem's  titles  carried  no 
right  of  building  on  the  peat  ground. 

After  a  time  Orem  purchased  Honyman's  part  of  the  **  ludgeing  or  long  tenement,"  and  he 
rebuilt  the  house  next  the  round  tower.  Here  he  died,  leaving  his  widow,  Jean  Black,  life- 
rented  in  it. 

Orem's  widow  married  Charles  Stewart,  Stewart  Clerk.  Stewart  was  a  man  of  import- 
ance in  his  day,  as  the  Stewart  Clerk,  equivalent  to  Sheri£f  Clerk,  did  the  bulk  of  the  work 
now  done  by  the  Sheriff-Substitute  and  Procurator-Fiscal.  He  was  the  second  son  of  John 
Stewart,  writer,  Edinburgh,  and  was  born  in  that  city,  1675.  In  1703  he  married  Mrs  Orem  ; 
in  1715  he  was  married  at  Westness  to  Marjorie  Traill ;  and,  1731,  in  Kirkwall  to  Sibilla, 
daughter  of  William  MacKenzie,  Commissary. 

*  Occupied.        t  For  titles  favoared  by  Mr  Walls,  National  Bank. 


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CHAPTER  XVII. 

The  Kirk  Green, 

WcTKHE  old  Town  Hall  was  built  on  the  Kirk  Green,  and  after  nearly  a  century  and  a  half 
9jK^  of  public  service,  it  was  cleared  away  when  the  new  Town  Hall  was  built.  But  the 
site  was  not  left  entirely  vacant.  An  absurdity  in  polished  granite,  utterly  out  of 
keeping  with  its  surroundings,  was  erected  as  a  monument  to  the  Covenanters  who  were 
wrecked  on  the  Moul  Head  of  Deerness  in  December  1679.  Out  of  place  though  it  be,  this 
monument  is  one  of  Time's  landmarks,  showing  the  changes  that  may  come  over  a  com- 
munity in  the  course  of  a  couple  of  centuries.  When  the  "  Crown  "  was  wrecked,  the  people 
of  Kirkwall  regarded  the  unhappy  victims  as  so  many  rebels  justly  banished  from  the 
kingdom,  while  those  who  erected  their  monument  hold  them  as  martyrs  in  the  cause  of 
Christianity.    That  they  lost  their  lives  in  a  struggle  for  religious  liberty  is  undoubted. 

We  have  contemporary  history  giving  expression  to  Orcadian  feeling  regarding  the 
struggle  of  the  Covenanters.  Thomas  Brown,  Notary  Public,  was  Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall  at 
this  time,  and  in  his  diary  he  enters  : — "  June  22,*  being  an  Sabbath  morning,  the  Duke  of 
Monmouth  had  battell  with  the  wiggs  in  the  west  of  Scotland,  near  Bothwell  Brigge,  and  he 
with  his  army  (glory  be  to  the  Almighty)  had  the  victory  that  day.*'  With  regard  to  the 
wreck,  the  diarist  seems  perfectly  callous  : — "  Dec.  10,  being  Wednesday,  at  9  in  ye  evening 
or  yrabout,  the  vessell  or  ship  called  the  Crown,  wherein  was  250  of  the  wiggs  or  thereby 
taken  at  Bothwell  Brigge,  to  have  been  sent  to  Virginia,  parroshed  at  or  near  by  ye  Moull 
Head  of  Deerness." 

It  is  improbable  that  any  other  contemporary  record  of  the  event  is  extant  in  Orkney. 
Traditions  we  have  of  course,  and  equally  of  course  these  are  utterly  unreliable.  But  on  board 
the  ill-fated  vessel  was  a  young  Lanarkshire  man,  named  Paterson,  who  lived  to  return  and 
marry  his  own  love,  and  his  account  of  the  wreck  is  preserved  in  the  west  country.  From 
Greyfriars  Churchyard,  in  Edinburgh,  the  prisoners  were  marched  to  Leith  and  put  on  board 
the  "  Crown,''  which  was  to  convey  them  to  the  settlements— the  English  plantations  in  the 
West  Indies. 

On  the  27th  of  November  she  set  sail,  and  on  10th  of  December  she  ca.st  anchor  in  Orkney 
close  off  a  lee  shore.  At  this  point  tradition  brings  in  a  mutiny,  but  this  must  refer  to  a 
petition  of  the  prisoners  that  they  might  be  permitted  to  land  with  the  sailors,  oflfering  at  the 
same  time  to  go  peaceably  to  any  available  prison.  The  captain's  answer  w^as  to  have  the  hatches 
securely  battened  down  upon  the  poor  wretches.  The  ship  drove  ashore  on  the  Moul  Head  of 
Deerness,  and  a  mast  going  by  the  side,  formed  a  bridge  by  which  the  crew  landed.  When 
the  ship  broke  up,  the  prisoners,  dead  and  alive,  were  liberated.  About  fifty  escaped,  and 
that  only  through  the  friendly  darkness  of  the  winter  night,  for  the  sailors  tried  to  hurl  back 
into  the  sea  those  whom  they  saw  reach  the  rocks.    These  fifty,  finding  themselves  among 

•  1679. 


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THE  KIRK  GREEN.  285 

an  unsympathetic  people,  separated,  each  to  shift  for  himself.  Faterson  came  to  Cairston^ 
ivhere  he  managed  to  ship  for  Holland ;  and,  after  an  exile  of  three  years,  his  friends  procured 
him  an  indemnity,  which  enabled  him  to  return  and  marry  Elizabeth  Halliday. 

The  monument  on  the  Kirk  Qreen  is  not  the  outcome  of  Orcadian  presbyterian  enthusiasm, 
nor  was  its  cost  defrayed  out  of  Orcadian  presbyterian  pockets.  A  visitor  from  South  America 
learned  that  there  was  in  Orkney  no  memorial  in  stone  work  of  the  vrreck  of  the  "  Crown,"  so 
he  supplied  the  money  to  erect  a  beacon  on  the  Moul  Head,  and  the  surplus,  with  a  few 
added  subscriptions,  put  up  the  Broad  Street  column. 

Apropos  of  the  wreck  of  the  "  Crown,"  the  historian  of  episcopacy  in  Orkney  says : — 
**  Though  misguided,  many  of  the  Covenanters  were  in  earnest,  but  the  extreme  men,  with 
whom  those  drowned  at  Deerness  may  be  classed,  were  fanatics  pure  and  simple."  On  this 
point  opinion  is  divided. 

Another  writer  says  ;— "  I  shall  begin  with  the  prisoners  taken  at  Bothwell.  Mr  Kid 
and  Mr  King,  as  has  been  said,  were  executed  as  Traytors  ;  and,  as  if  their  cruelty  had  been 
satisfied,  it  was  resolved  in  Council  to  transport  the  rest  into  the  English  Plantations.  Upon 
the  King's  Orders,  and  under  Pretence  of  this  Transportation,  there  were  300  of  the  said 
Prisoners  put  on  board  of  a  Ship  in  Order,  as  was  said,  to  be  sent  to  the  West-Indies.  Some 
have  said  that  it  was  then  publickly  known  that  the  Council  had,  notwithstanding  the  Order 
from  England^  determined  the  Transported  People  for  death ;  and,  indeed,  it  seems  more  than 
probable,  seeing  they  sailed  Northward  to  go  to  the  English  colonies  directly  from  Scotland  ; 
which  by  the  Constituted  Law  of  those  Countries,  called  the  Ad  of  Navigation^  could  not  be 
done,  neither  could  any  of  these  Colonies  have  received  them,  but  have  seized  and  forfeited 
the  ship  and  Goods  that  came  with  them  ;  so  that  it  is  certainly  more  than  a  Suspicion  that 
the  Poor  People  were  designed  for  Destruction.  The  Case  was  thus,  when  the  poor  People,  I 
say,  were  put  on  board  the  ship  and  sail'd  out  of  the  Firth  of  Edinburgh,  it  was  expected  that 
they  should  have  gone  directly  to  Englaiid^  as  ships  bound  to  the  English  Plantations  were 
always  used  to  do,  and  as  indeed  they  were  bound  by  the  Laws  of  England  to  do,  as  above  ; 
but,  on  the  contrary,  they  sailed  Northward  to  the  Coast  of  the  Orkneys^  where  by  Stress  of 
Weather,  as  tvas  pretended^  the  Ship  was  driven  among  the  Kocks  and  broken  in  pieces.  The 
Master  and  Seamen,  and  the  Persons,  or  Murtherers  rather,  who  had  the  Guard  or  Conducting 
of  the  Prisoners,  easily  got  on  shore  ;  and  had  they  been  permitted,  all  the  Prisoners  might 
likewise  have  done  the  same  ;  Whereas  the  Officer  who  had  the  Guard  of  the  Prisoners,  with 
the  Master  of  the  Ship,  having  on  pretence  of  securing  them,  locked  them  all  down  under  the 
Hatches,  would  not,  upon  the  most  earnest  and  moving  Entreaties  of  even  the  Seamen  and 
others,  nor  the  Shrieks  and  Cries  of  the  poor  dying  People,  suffer  the  hatches  to  be  opened  or 
one  of  them  to  be  let  out. 

"  It  seems  there  was  one  Seaman  who  ventured  his  Life  on  board  when  the  Ship  was  just 
breaking  to  pieces,  and,  with  an  Axe,  cutting  his  Way  thro'  the  Side  or  Deck  of  the  Vessel, 
let  about  50  out,  who  were  every  one  saved,  but  the  rest  all  perished. 

"  Moreover,  it  has  been  said  that  there  was  not  Provisions  on  board  for  the  Prisoners 
sufficient  to  keep  them  alive  14  days  ;  which,  if  it  is  true,  would  convince  an  Atheist  in  such 
Things  that  the  Design  in  putting  these  poor  People  on  board  was  not  to  Transport  but  to 
Murther  them. 

"  Thus  perished  250  of  these  good  People  ;  I  call  them  so  on  this  most  justifiable  foun- 
dation, (viz.)  because  that  tho*  they  might  have  their  Lives  and  Liberties  given  them  by  the 
Sovereign  upon  Terms  which  in  Conscience  they  could  not  comply  with,  tJiey  loved  not  their 
Lives. 

"  After  this  piece  of  Cruelty  is  related,  I  think  I  need  no  apology  for  having  said  That 


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^86  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

the  Reign  of  Dioclesian,  or  any  of  the  most  Cruel  persecutors  of  God's  Church,  could  not 
match  it."* 

This  pillar  serves  another  purpose,  however  ;  it  marks  the  site  of  the  old  Town  Hall  and 
of  the  older  Guard  House.  At  the  time  of  the  erection  of  the  latter,  the  necessity  for  it  was 
great.  "  Qlk  day,+  the  Presbytery  taking  to  their  consideration  the  most  unchristian  and 
more  than  barbarous  practice  of  the  town-guard  of  Kirkwall  at  the  time  of  the  Lambas  fair 
their  keeping  guard  within  the  church,  shutting  of  guns,  burning  great  fyres  on  the  graves  of 
the  dead,  drinking,  fiddling,  pipeing,  swearing,  and  cursing  night  and  day  within  the  church, 
by  which  means  religion  is  scandalised  and  the  Presbytery  most  miserably  abused  ;  particu- 
larly that  when  they  are  at  exercise  in  the  said  church,  neither  can  the  preacher  open  his 
mouth,  nor  the  hearers  conveniently  attend,  for  smoke ;  yea,  some  of  the  members  of  the 
Presbytery  have  been  stopped  in  their  outgoing  and  incoming  to  their  meetings  and  most 
rudely  pursued  by  the  souldiers  with  their  musquets  and  halberts,  all  which  are  most  grievous 
to  the  Presbytery  and  to  any  that  have  any  sense  of  godliness;  for  remeid  of  which  the 
Presbytery  appoints  Mr  Patrick  Guthrie,!  Mr  Baikie,§  and  Mr  Grant ||  to  represent  the  said 
abuse  to  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall,  and  to  desyre  of  them  to  keep  their  guards  elsewhere  in 
all  tyme  coming,  which  if  they  do,  the  Presbytery  will  give  them  no  more  trouble  in  this  af&ir, 
but  if  they  will  not,  the  Presbyterie  will  endeavour  to  represent  the  said  abuses  to  the  Privy 
Council  for  redressing  of  them  ;  and  appoint  the  brethren  to  report." 

The  Magistrates  were  willing  enough  to  reform  this  crying  abuse,  but  they  had  no  other 
building  in  which  they  could  accommodate  the  guard,  and  they  had  no  money  with  which  to 
build.    But  the  church  found  the  means,  and  the  guard-house  was  put  up. 

23rd  February  1702,  "Arthur  Murray  being  called,  compeared  and  acknowledged  his 
guilt  with  Marie  Sinclair.  He,  being  rebuked  and  exhorted,  was  removed.  The  Session,  con- 
sidering that  his  fault  was  a  trelapse,  referrs  him  therefore  to  the  Presbytery,  and  as  to  his 
penaltie,  the  Session  requyred  the  Magistrat  present  to  impose  according  to  the  Act  of 
Parliat." 

leth  March  1702,  "  With  respect  to  Arthur  Murray  trelapse  in  fornication,  referred  to  the 
Presbyterie,  the  minister  reports  that  the  said  Arthur  had  given  in  a  supplication  to  the 
Presbyterie  craving  their  favor  as  to  his  satisfaction,  and  that  the  Session  of  Kirkwall  might 
be  allowed  to  take  satisfaction  according  as  they  shall  think  fitt ;  and  that  the  Presbyterie, 
upon  his  said  supplication,  considering  his  great  age  and  weakness  of  body,  and  seeming 
repentance,  together  with  his  readiness  to  yield  to  the  Ses.sion  of  Kirkwall's  appoyntment, 
both  as  to  his  satisfaction  and  penaltie,  did  therefore  allow  and  warrand  the  Session  of  Kirk- 
wall cause  the  said  Arthur  satisfie,  in  or  without  sackcloath,  as  they  should  think  fitt,  and 
referred  him  back  again  to  the  said  Session  for  his  satisfaction  accordingly. 

"All  which  the  Session  considering,  the  Session  did  unanimouslie  agrie  that  the  said 
Arthur  should  make  satisfaction  in  the  public  place  of  repentance  without  sackcloth,  and  that, 
upon  three  or  four  days'  appearance,  he  should  be  absolved. 

"  Upon  which  favour  showed  to  the  said  Arthur,  he  did  give  in  willinglie  a  bond  for 
200  lb.  Scotts  mole.,  to  be  paid  against  Whitsunday  next ;  which  bond  of  200  lb.  money  foresaid 
the  Session,  with  the  special  advyce  of  the  Magistrat  present,  depositat  in  the  hands  of  Andro 
Strang,  one  of  the  Elders  and  present  town  Treasurer,  that  he  may  Imploy  workmen  as  need 
requyrs,  for  the  building  of  a  guard -house  upon  a  convenient  place  on  the  Broad  Street  as 
shall  be  thought  best  by  the  Magistrats  and  Session  ;  and  for  the  defraying  the  charges  of  the 

*  Memoirs  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  (London,  1717).  t  8th  Aug.  1701.  t  Lady  Parish,  Sanday, 
§  St  Magnus,  First  Charge.  ||  South  Konaldshay. 


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THE   KIRK   GREEN.  287 

said  house,  the  Magistrat  and  Session  present  allow  and  Impower  him  to  call  and  pursue  for 
the  said  200  lb.  forsd.,  and,  if  need  be,  he  is  to  give  him  an  assignation  to  the  same. 

"  And  this  the  Session,  with  advyce  of  the  Presbytrie,  did  cordialie  agrie  to  in  order  to  the 
removing  that  abuse  of  the  church  by  keeping  guard  in  it  at  Lambas  tyme." 

Arthur  Murray's  fine  was  not  quite  sufficient  to  complete  the  guard-house,  and  a  collection 
was  taken  up  in  all  the  churches  within  the  Presbytery.  Then,  12th  August  170^,  **  The  Sess., 
with  the  Magistrats*  pnt.,  considering  that  the  guard-house,  as  it  was  proposed  to  be  built  of 
timber,  is  now  perfyted,  and  that  by  this  means  the  abuse  frequentlie  complained  of  is 
removed  out  of  the  church.  And  in  regard  that  the  Magistrats  present  represented  that  they 
were  resolved  (if  the  Lord  would),  upon  a  convenient  occasion,  to  build  a  tolbuith  in  which 
they  proposed  to  make  a  sufficient  guard -house,  and  therefore  craved  that  it  might  be  minute 
in  Sess.  that  the  timber  presentlie  Imployed  about  the  guard-house  should  be  forthcoming 
upon  their  demand  to  the  use  of  the  sd.  tolbuith,  obliging  themselves  to  furnish  the  town  with 
a  sufficient  guard-house  without  any  trouble  to  the  church.  The  Sess.  grants  this,  and  hereby 
declares  that,  upon  the  condition  aforsd.,  the  timber  shall  be  forth  coming  to  the  use  foresaid."* 

It  was  nearly  fifty  years  before  the  Town  Council  was  able  to  carry  out  their  scheme  of 
erecting  a  tolbooth,  when,  strange  to  say,  the  nucleus  of  their  building  fund  was  another  fine 
of  £200. 

One  other  erection  on  the  Kirk  Green  remains  to  be  noticed — the  Market  Cross.  The  old 
site  of  the  Cross  was  near  the  foot  of  the  Strynd.  The  original  use  of  the  Cross  for  market 
purposes  was  doubtless  to  render  contracts  binding  in  an  age  when  written  agreements  were 
impossible  ;  the  parties  to  a  bargain  touched  the  Cross,  and  thus  came  under  a  solemn 
obligation. 

The  Cross  also  lent  itself  to  further  the  ends  of  justice.  It  was  used  as  a  pillory,  and  the 
Cross  of  Kirkwall  was  provided  with  "  jougs."  When  the  civil  court  sentenced  an  offender  to 
endure  the  clasp  of  the  iron  collar,  he  was  taken  to  the  Cross,  t 

Incorrigibles  were  branded  at  the  Cross  to  testify  that  the  burning  was  not  an  act  of 
human  cruelty,  but  that  it  was  a  sacred  duty  on  the  part  of  Magistrates  to  stamp  obdurate 
offenders  that  men  might  recognise  and  beware  of  them. 

Proclamations  were  made  at  the  Cross,  the  inference  being  that  from  thence  nothing  but 
truth  could  be  promulgated. 

Sometimes  an  endowment  of  land  was  attached  to  the  Market  Cross,  and  the  name 
CorsCy  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood— church  land  from  its  earliest  known  history — may 
point  to  something  of  that  nature. 

If  the  engraved  date,  1621,  be  any  guide,  the  present  Cross  was  erected  by  Bishop 
Qraham.^    The  Cross  has  been  broken  and  mended.§ 

*  Wm.  Young  and  Wm.  Liddell,  Bailies. 

t  It  is  said  that  the  punishment  of  the  jougs  got  into  disfavour  and  finally  into  disuse  through  an 
accident  at  the  door  of  a  southern  church.  The  ^adle  had  to  adjust  the  collar  round  the  neck  of  a' 
very  little  woman,  so  short  that  he  had  to  get  her  a  stool  to  stand  upon.  Having  seen  everything 
secure,  he  went  about  his  other  duties.  Coming  back  some  time  afterwards,  he  was  horrified  to  find 
that  the  poor  creature  had  upset  the  stool,  and  was  only  saved  from  strangulation  through 
the  tips  of  her  toes  reaching  the  ground. 

t  For  Kirkwall  Cross,  see  Mackintosh's  "  Incidents,"  p.  227. 

§  A  gale  of  wind,  wrecking  a  tent  erected  near  it,  during  a  Lammas  Fair,  caused  the  damage. 


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CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Victoria  Street. 

KOING  up  from  Broad  Street,  the  first  house  on  the  east  side  of  what  is  now  called 
Victoria  Street  is  a  long,  plain  building,  one  of  the  ancient  ecclesiastical  official 
residences.  In  the  north  end  of  it,  as  has  been  seen,  was  the  **  Chaplain's  Chamber,** 
which,  in  early  presbyterian  times,  was  the  ei)iscoi)al  Meeting  House.  The  southern  and 
larger  portion  was  the  manse  of  the  Subdean  of  the  Cathedral.  The  first  occupant  of  the 
latter  must  have  been  Peter  Houston,  Rector  of  Hoy  and  Vicar  of  Walls,  Bishop  Reid*8 
Subdean.    The  last  to  hold  the  office  under  Romish  rule  was  William  Mudie. 

Early  in  the  seventeenth  century  the  Subdean's  house  belonged  to  William  Carmichael, 
merchant  in  Kirkwall.  Carmichael's  success  in  business  may  l)e  inferred  from  his  occujiying 
one  of  the  largest  houses  in  the  town.  He  put  out  money  at  interest,  and  a  loan  by  him  to 
David  Cromartie,  Wydwall,  is  registered  16th  June  1616. 

In  1630,  Carmichael  made  over  his  house  to  his  daughter.  Christian,  and  her  husband, 
John  Grahame.  The  following  year  they  sold  it  to  Thomas  Buchanan.  In  1661,  x\rthur 
Buchanan  of  Sound  sold  the  old  mansion  to  George  Smythe  of  Rapness— one  of  the  Braco 
Smythes — and  his  wife,  Christian  Rusle. 

In  1663,  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness  obtained  "  decreit  for  the  sowme  of  700  mks.  of 
prinll.  and  20  mks.  of  expenses  "  against  Christian  Rusle. 

Christian  accepted  for  a  second  husband  Thomas  Wilson  of  Hunclet,  and  the  house  of 
her  first  husband  became  the  pror)erty  of  his  son,  John  Smith.  But  John  got  hopelessly 
involved  in  debt,  and  the  Subdean's  Lodging  passed  into  the  hands  of  James  Baikie  of 
Tankerness,  1689. 

In  1704,  William  Halcro  of  Coubist^r  and  his  wife,  Margaret  Black,  bought  the  place 
from  Baikie  and  kept  it  for  thirty  years.  While  in  Coubister's  possession,  this  house,  or  part 
of  it,  was  occupied  by  Margaret  Stewart,  widow  of  Bishop  ^lackenzie's  son,  William,  Com- 
missary of  Orkney. 

In  1734,  Mr  Hugh  Mowatt,  minister  of  Evie  and  Rendall,  and  Betty  Baikie,  his  spouse, 
purchased  from  Halcro,  and  by  and  by  sold  the  tenement  to  Andrew  Baikie,  Landwaiter  of 
the  Customs.  After  being  for  a  short  time  the  property  of  James  Riddoch  of  Cairston,  it 
was  bought,  in  1821,  by  John  Baikie,  Esq.,  Lieutenant,  R.N.,  and  here,  in  1825,  he  opened  a 
branch  of  the  National  Bank  of  Scotland,  the  first  banking  agency  established  in  Kirkwall. 
The  Subdean's  house  is  now  owned  and  occupied  by  Captain  Baikie's  daughter,  Eleanor. 

South  from  the  Subdean's  Lodging  was  the  yard  pertaining  to  it,  afterwards  built  upon. 
One  of  the  earliest  tenants  of  the  house  built  on  the  Subdean's  yard  was  Francis  Auchinleck, 
gunner,  one  of  Cromwell's  soldiers,  and  Jean  Ballenden,  his  wife. 

South  of  this,  with  its  gable  to  the  street,  is  a  house  which,  in  1666,  belonged  to  Arthur 
Baikie  of  Sound,  on  whose  death  it  fell  to  his  daughter,  Marjorie.    This  lady  married,  1692, 


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KIRKWALL— 

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VICTORIA   STREET. 


28» 


her  kinsman,  Thomas  Buchanan  of  Sandside.  On  a  lintel  in  a  small  room  in  a  part  of  the 
building  reached  by  an  outside  stair  is  their  joint  monogram,^  with  the  common  initial  letter 
of  the  two  properties,  Sandside  and  Sound.  Along  with  this,  Marjory  Buchanan  brought  to 
her  husband  the  properties  south  of  it  as  far  as  the  Crown  Chamberlain's  Office  and  dwelling- 
house,  24  and  26  Victoria  Street.  In  February  1819,  Peter  Calder  bought  this  house,  which^ 
as  Calder's  Inn,  was  regarded  as  the  principal  hotel  in  Kirkwall. 


Hugh  Halcro's  Arms,  from  a  Panel  in  the  Cathedral. 

Connected  with  the  inn,  a  story  is  told  of  two  travellers,  a  wager,  and  a  practical  joke,  a 
story  which  has  had  many  a  local  habitation  assigned  to  it,  but  which  we  must  believe 
originated  in  Kirkwall.  It  belongs  to  the  days  when  the  nave  of  the  Cathedral  was  used  as  a 
common  burial  ground.  As  new  tenants  entered  into  possession  of  their  last  abode,  portions 
of  former  occupants  were  evicted.  Thus,  in  one  corner  of  the  nave  lay  a  pile  of  bones 
containing  specimens  of  every  part  of  the  human  framework.  One  of  the  travellers  had 
professed  himself  sceptical  in  the  matter  of  ghosts.  To  him  darkness  and  churchyards,  even 
when  taken  together,  brought  no  discomfort.  The  bet  was  a  bottle  of  claret,  and  to  win  it 
the  fearless  one  must  go  at  midnight  to  St.  Magnus  and  bring  away  a  skull.  The  hour 
arrived  and  found  the  man  groping  among  the  fragments  of  defunct  burgesses.    He  soon  got 


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KIRKWALL   IN  THE   ORKNEYS. 


Joint  Monogram  of  Thomas  Buchanan  of 
Sandside  and  Marjory  Buchanan  of  Sound. 


what  he  wanted,  and  was  coming  away  when  a  deep  sepulchral  voice  out  of  the  darkness 
called,  "  Give  me  my  head."  And  here  it  comes  to  be  a  matter  of  wonder  how  ghosts,  with 
no  vocal  machinery  to  boast  of,  always  speak  in  such  sonorous  tones.  Be  that  as  it  may,  the 
person  addressed  quietly  answered,  *' Right,  there  you  are,"  and  threw  the  skull  in  the 
direction  of  the  voice.  He  then  resumed  his  search, 
and  having  secured  another  empty  brain  pan,  was 
again  arrested  by  the  same  request.  "No,  thank 
you,"  was  the  reply,  *'  you  cannot  have  two  heads, 
and  if  you  are  not  satisfied  with  the  one  I  sent  you, 
you  may  find  another  for  yourself." 

It  is  true,  as  has  been  said,  that  this  veracious 
tale  has  been  attached  to  other  localities,  some  of 
them  continental ;  but,  while  the  travellers  and  the 
bones  are  no  longer  in  evidence,  the  Cathedral  and 
the  inn  are  still  here  as  witnesses  that  the  incident 
belongs  of  right  to  Kirkwall. 

Calder  seems  to  have  been  a  good  landlord,  but 
his  wife,  having  charge  of  the  bar,  began  to  taste 
too  freely  of  the  sweets  of  office,  and  when  pre- 
vented by  her  husband  from  indulging  at  home, 
would  go  elsewhere  for  her  stimulants.  Returning  late  one  night,  she  stumbled  on  the 
uneven  footpath  and  fell  into  one  of  KirkwalPs  nastiest  puddles.  Being  confused  by  the 
shock,  she  could  not  rise  till  a  neighbour,  passing,  helped  her  up,  and  took  her  home.  But 
Calder's  Inn  was  closed  for  the  night,  and  for  a  time  the  host  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  the  noise 
of  him  who  knocked.  When  at  length  the  husband  came  to  the  door,  the  impatient 
Samaritan  snorted  out,  "  I  think,  freend,  ye're  in  sma'  hurry  to  tak'  in  your  wife."  "  Wife," 
was  the  melancholy  reply,  "  I  wish  she  was  in  Abraham's  bosom." 

"  An'  a  puir  skurtfu'  Abraham  wad  ha'e  this  sam'  night.  Afore  ye  tak'  her  to  yer  ain 
bosom  ye'll  ha'e  to  pit  her  through  the  tub,  claes  an'  a'." 

In  a  bond  gi*anted  by  Peter  Calder  at  the  time  of  his  purchase  a  barn  and  kiln  are 
mentioned.  These  some  of  our  older  inhabitants  remember,  to  the  south  of  the  house  on  the 
high  ground  at  the  back. 

To  the  south  of  Calder's  Inn  there  stood,  in  1757,  a  "Great  Tenement  and  two  little 
Tenements  of  land  and  houses,  with  the  yairds  belonging  thereto."  At  that  time  these 
tenements  belonged  to  John  Traill  of  Elsness,  whose  dwelling-house  was  farther  up  the  street, 
and  his  title  to  this  property  is  only  interesting  in  so  far  as  the  boundaries  help  us  to  identify 
the  neighbours. 

The  most  important  building  now  on  this  site  is  the  Gospel  Hall,  the  meeting  house 
of  a  Christian  denomination  which  refuses  to  recognise  a  salaried  priesthood. 

Some  distance  back  from  this  meeting  house,  near  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  old 
manse,  stood,  in  Romish  times,  the  chapel  of  Our  Lady  in  the  Laverock. 

John  Traill's  southern  boundary  is  given  as  "  the  houses  and  yards  sometime  belonging  to 
John  Buchanan,  now  to  James  Nisbet,  son  of  Mr  Alexander  Nisbet,  minister  of  Shapinsay." 
The  first  of  the  Orkney  Nisbets  came  north  to  be  Earl  Robert's  gardener  at  the  Palace  at 
Birsay. 

Mr  Nisbet  of  Shapinsay  was  ordained  by  the  Kirkwall  Presbytery,  1702,  and  the  same 
year  was  called  to  the  second  charge  in  St.  Magnus.  He  was  ordained,  14th  May  1703,  but 
not  having  independent  means,  he  was  "  obliged  to  leave  for  want  of  sustenance."    He  was 


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VICTORIA   STREET.  291 

translated  to  Shapinsay,  where  he  added  to  his  income  by  taking  boys  to  board  and 
educate."* 

James  Nisbet's  house  in  the  Laverock  saw  the  beginning  of  what  quickly  developed  into 
a  grave  scandal. 

Mrs  Nisbet  was  Anne,  daughter  of  Sir  James  Agnew,  Bart.,  of  Lochnawe,  and  her  sister^ 
Margaret,  had  married  John  Agnew,  Supervisor  of  Excise  at  Arbroath  ;  but,  for  some  unex- 
plained reason,  she  left  her  husband  and  came  to  her  sister  in  Kirkwall.  Here  she  received 
a  doubtful  welcome,  and  Mrs  Nisbet  was  evidently  in  perplexity  as  to  how  she  should  act^ 
when  her  brother-in-law,  the  Eev.  Wm.  Nisbet,  of  Firth  and  Stenness,  came  to  the  rescue. 
He  took  the  fugitive  to  his  manse,  receiving  the  gratitude  of  all  concerned.  Read  in  the  light 
of  the  sequel,  there  is  something  very  pathetic  in  the  letters  of  Lady  Agnew  to  the  minister 
regarding  his  kindness  to  her  daughter  : — 

**  Sir, — I  wrote  you  last  Deer.,  and  returned  you  my  most  sincere  thanks  for  your  kind  and 
tender  concern  for  my  unhappv  Daughter.  Allow  me  to  make  my  most  grateful  acknowledgements 
for  all  your  favours  and  friendlv  care  of  yt.  most  unfortunate  woman,  but  particularly  for  setting  her 
60  well  settled,  for  I  am  much  better  pleased  she  is  Lo<lged  in  your  house  than  anywhere  Else  ;  so  if 
you  are  so  kind  to  allow  her  to  continue  there,  it  unll  give  me  great  pleasure  to  have  her  under  your 
roof  and  insti-uction  of  one  who  is  so  capable  to  advise  and  direct  her,"  &c.,  &c. 

"  Lochnaw,  Nover.  ye  12th,  1763."  (Signed)        **  E.  Agnew. 

The  manse  was  naturally  regarded  as  a  safe  asylum,  and  the  more  so  that  the  minister 

was  about  to  be  married.    Disturbed  by  some  gossip  which  reached  her  ears,  Mrs  Agnew 

eft  the  minister's  house  and  went  to  Cursitter,  the  house  of  Magnus  Wilson,  who  farmed  the 

glebe.    But  the  clergyman  was  as  much  at  home  in  this  tenant's  house  as  in  his  own,  and  the 

change  of  residence  only  drew  public  attention  to  his  conduct. 

Wilson  seems  to  have  protested,  and  Adam  Esson's  house  at  Grimbister  was  next  sought^ 
but  the  distance  was  inconvenient,  and  Mrs  Agnew  returned  to  the  manse. 

Meanwhile  Mr  Nisbet 's  wedding  day  arrived,  and  on  the  12th  January  1764  he  married 
Elizabeth  Ritch  in  the  manse  of  Orphir,  Mrs  Agnew  again  retiring  to  Cursitter.  The  day 
after  his  marriage  the  minister  went  down  to  the  house  of  his  tenant,  and  as  he  did  not  return 
for  two  nights,  Mrs  Nisbet  went  back  to  her  father's  house  in  Birsay, 

Here  the  Presbytery  took  up  the  case,  and  to  prevent  the  appearance  of  what  would  have 
been  a  very  important  witness  for  the  prosecution,  Mrs  Agnew  was  sent  south.  Mr  Nisbet 
came  to  Kirkwall  with  her  in  July,  "  and  in  August  or  September  she  went  on  board  a  ship 
and  left  the  Stewartry."  The  unfortunate  clergyman  came  to  the  shore  with  her  and  gave  her 
what  money  he  had,  the  bulk  of  it  having  been  raised  by  the  sale  of  his  watch  and  gun  and 
horse. 

After  the  Presbytery  had  found  him  guilty,  Mr  Nisbet  became  liable  to  a  public 
prosecution.  Queen  Mary  of  virtuous  memory  having  made  adultery  a  capital  offence.  Before 
the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  Crown  had  tacitly  allowed  the  Church  to  deal  with 
such  cases,  but  this  particular  offender  had  to  undergo  his  trial.  That  personal  influence  had 
been  brought  to  bear  upon  the  Lord  Advocate  was  more  than  hinted  at : — 

**  Mr  William  Nisbet,  Minister  of  the  Gospel  of  the  United  Parishes  of  Firth  and  Stennes,  in  the 
Stewartry  of  Orkney,  Pannel. 

'*  Indicted  and  accused  at  the  Instance  of  Thomas  Millar  of  Barskinning,  Esq.,  His  Majesty's 
Advocate  for  His  Majesty's  Interest,  for  the  crime  of  Adultery  in  manner  mentioned  in  the  Criminal 
Letters  raised  thereanent. 

"Pror.  for  the  Prosecuter,  Mr  Patrick  Murray,  Advocate  Dpt. 

**  Prors.  in  Defence,  Mr  Alexander  Elphinston,  Advocate  ;  Mr  Charles  Brown,  Advocate. 

♦  Fasti. 


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292  KIUKWALL   IN   THU   ORKNEYS. 

**  The  Lybel  being  read  over  to  the  Pannel  in  presence  of  the  Court,  The  Pannel  denied  the  same. 

'*  Mr  Alexr.  EUphinston,  for  the  Pannel,  Represented  That  the  present  Prosecution,  which,  con- 
sidering the  Character  and  i*ank  of  Life  of  the  Pannel,  is  of  a  very  grievous  nature  to  him,  was  solely 
the  effect  of  malice  and  resentment  conceived  agt.  him  by  Mr  Honyman  of  Gr»msay  for  his  having 
prosecuted  his  Tenants  for  Vicarage  tythes  due  him  ah  Minister,  in  which  action  he  had  prevailec^ 
both  before  the  Sheriff  and  the  Court  of  Session,  as  ap[)eared  from  this,  that  the  Precognition  taken 
thereanent  was  industriously  hawked  about  thro'  the  Country  in  order  to  blacken  the  rannel,  when 
it  should  have  been  communicated  only  to  His  Majesty's  Advocate.  That  the  Pannel  would  be  able 
to  prove  his  Innocence,  not  only  by  proving  Alibi  at  the  time  charged,  particularly  in  the  days  sub- 
sequent to  his  marriage,  but  also  by  legal  objections  agt.  the  Witnesses.  That  having  gone  to  Edr.  to 
take  advice,  being  unacquainted  with  such  Courts,  he  had  newly  arrived  from  thence,*  and  had  not 
time  to  bring  up  such  witnesses  from  Oikney,  and  therefore  Insisted  the  Trial  should  be  delayed  at 
this  Time,  that  he  may  afterwards  have  an  opportunity  to  adduce  witnesses  for  that  effect. 

"  Mr  Patrick  Murray  Answered  That  this  Trial  was  by  no  means  the  result  of  any  private 
Resentment  or  malice.  It  was  advised  by,  and  was  now  brought  by,  his  Majesty's  Advocate,  the 
Public  Prosecutor  for  the  Public  Interest,  and  no  such  insinuation  can  light  against  him.  That  there 
is  no  reason  for  delaying  the  Trial,  the  Paimel  having  had  the  legal  Inducise  of  fourty  days  allowed 
him.  Besides,  as  to  the  Alil)i,  if  true,  he  can  be  under  no  difficulty  of  proving  it  by  the  Prosecutor's 
witnesses,  of  whom  he  should  be  allowed  the  full  benefit,  particularly  Mr  Reid,  the  Minister  in  whose 
house  he  was  married,  is  the  most  proper  witness  by  whom  he  can  prove  his  alledgance,  as  he  must 
•certainly  know  whether  the  Pannel  stayed  with  him  for  the  first  few  days  after  his  marriage  or  not ; 
and  therefore  Craved  that  their  Lordships  would  repel  the  Dilatory  Defence  and  proceed  to  Trial. 

"  I,  Mr  Patrick  Murray,  Advocate  Depute,  Do,  for  His  Majesty's  Interest,  Restrict  the  Lybel 
Against  the  Pannel  to  an  Arbitrary  Punishment.  (Signed)        Pat.  Mtrray,  A.  Dt." 

**  The  Lords  Auchinleck  and  Coalston,  Lords  Comrs.  of  Justiciary,  having  considered  the  fore- 
going Criminal  Letters  raised  and  pursued  at  the  Instance  of  Thomas  Millar  of  Harskinning,  Esq.,  His 
Majesty's  Advocate  for  His  Majesty's  Interest,  against  Mr  William  Nisbet,  Minister  of  the  United 
Parishes  of  Firth  and  Stennes,  in  the  Stewartry  of  Orkney,  Pannel,  as  now  restricted  by  His  Majesty's 
Advocate  Depute,  with  the  foregoing  Debate,  Repel  the  Dilatory  Defence,  and  find  the  Lybel 
Relevant  to  Keferr  an  Arbitrary  Punishment  ;  But  allow  the  Paunel  to  prove  all  facts  and  circum- 
stances that  may  tend  to  exculpate  him  or  alleviate  his  guilt,  and  Remit  the  Pannel  with  the  Lybel  as 
found  Relevant  to  the  knowledge  of  an  Assyse.  (Signed)        Alexr.  Boswel,  Pr." 

"The  jury,  all  in  one  voice.  Find  the  Pannel,  after  his  marriage,  Guilty  of  Adultery  with 
Margaret  Agnew.  In  witness  whereof,  their  said  Chancellor t  and  Clerk t  have  subscribed  these 
Presents  in  their  names  and  by  their  appointment. 

(Signed)        Will.  McGillivray,  Chancellor. 
Alkxander  Grant,  Clk." 

"  The  Lords,  in  respect  of  the  said  Verdict,  Decern  and  Adjudge  the  said  Mr  William  Nisbet, 
Pannel,  to  be  carried  from  the  bar  back  to  the  Tolbooth  of  Inverness,  therein  to  be  detained  for  two 
months  from  this  date,  and  to  be  fed  upon  Bread  and  water  only,  unless  an  opportunity  offer  for 
Transporting  him  sooner  in  the  way  and  manner  aftermentioned  ;  and  after  the  said  two  months,  to 
be  detained  till  an  opportunity  shall  offer  for  Transporting  him  to  one  or  other  of  His  Majesty's 
Plantations  in  America,  to  one  or  other  of  which  Plantations  the  said  Lords  Decern  and  Adjudge  him 
to  be  Banished,  and  they  hereby  Banish  him  during  all  the  days  of  his  Life.  They  grant  warrant  to 
and  ordain  the  Magistrates  of  Inverness  and  the  Keepers  of  their  Tolbooth  to  deliver  over  the  person 
of  the  said  Mr  W^illiam  Nisbet  to  any  Merchant,  Shipmaster,  or  other  person,  who  shall  find  sufficient 
Caution  and  Surety  acted  in  the  Books  of  Adjournal,  under  the  penalty  of  Thirty  Pounds  Sterling,  to 
one  or  other  of  His  Majesty's  Plantations  in  America,  and  Report  a  Certificate  to  the  Court  of 
Justiciary  of  his  being  so  Transported  and  landed,  under  the  hand  of  the  proper  officer  of  the  said 
Plantation,  within  year  and  day  of  the  date  of  the  Bail  bond  to  be  granted  for  that  effect." 

The  sentence  also  provided  that  if  Nisbet  returned  to  Scotland  he  should,  when  found,  be 
passed  on  "  frora  Sheriff  to  Sheriff  back  to  Inverness,  and  there  lodged  in  the  Tolbooth— to 
be  taken  out  and  whipped  at  the  usual  places  and  times,  and  again  transported." 

It  seems  not  improbable  that  the  convict  acquired  property  out  in  Jamaica,  for,  shortly 
after  this  time,  we  find  Nisbets  from  Kirkwall  emigrating  to  that  island. 

Elizabeth  Ritch  (Mrs  Nisbet),  the  year  after  her  husband's  banishment,  petitioned  the 
General  Assembly  for  support,  and  they,  "considering  the  distressful  and  calamitous 
circumstances  to  which  she  is  reduced,  appointed  a  collection  to  be  made  for  her  in  the  Synods 

*  The  hearing  was  before  the  Spring  Session  of  the  Assize  Court  at  Inverness, 
t  William  McGillivray  of  Dnminaglass.         X  Alexr.  Grant,  yr.  of  TuUigorm. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  298 

of  Orkney,  and  Sutherland,  and  Caithness,  and  a  committee  to  consider  what  may  be  done  in 
any  other  way  towards  her  obtaining  some  provision  for  her  future  support." 

The  next  proprietor  of  James  Nisbet's  house  was  Alexander  Stewart,  merchant.  He  was 
of  an  old  Kirkwall  family,  was  possessed  of  considerable  wealth,  and  was  Laird  of  Redland. 
He  built  two  houses  upon  the  site,  one  of  which  is  still  retained  by  the  Stewart  family,  while 
the  other  belonged  to  the  late  Crown  Chamberlain. 

From  1689  to  1825  the  Bishopric  revenuas  were  set  at  rents  varying  from  £200  per  annum 
down  to  £50.    At  the  latter  rent  the  Bishopric  was  held  for  fifty  years  by  the  Dundas  family. 

In  1825,  it  was  found  that  for  five  years  the  Bishopric  rents  had  not. been  uplifted  by  the 
Chamberlain  of  the  Earldom,  The  person  responsible  for  this  state  of  matters  was  a  Mr 
Bruce,  a  distant  connection  of  Lord  Dundas.  He  had  been  a  slave-driver,  and  he  carried  with 
him  to  Kirkwall  the  idea  that,  as  Chamberlain  of  the  Earldom  and  Bishopric,  he  was  autocrat 
of  all  the  Orkneys  and  vested  with  absolute  power.  Cock-fighting  was  his  chief  amusement. 
In  his  private  quarrels  he  took  the  law  into  his  own  hand,  and  that  hand  sometimes  held  a 
horsewhip.  He  was  recalled,  and  Mr  Thomas  Hutton  succeeded  him  in  Crantit  House,  the 
official  residence  of  the  administrator  of  the  Bishopric. 

But  His  Majesty's  Woods  and  Forests  thought  it  necessary  to  appoint  a  factor  in  the 
interest  of  the  Crown.  The  first  Receiver  of  the  Crown  revenues  was  Charles  Shireff,  Sheriff- 
Substitute,  and  he  did  the  work  for  four  years. 

In  1829,  Thomas  Graham  was  appointed  Crown  Chamberlain,  and  it  took  him  a  consider- 
able time  to  place  the  business  of  the  neglected  Bishopric  upon  a  proper  footing.  He  found 
that  there  had  been  a  convenient  mixing  together  of  the  rights  of  Earldom  and  Bishopric  by 
the  vassfils  of  both,  and  by  their  tenants.  In  this  connection  he  issued  a  circular  to  the 
landowners  in  the  Bishopric  parishes  requiring  information.    In  reply,  Mr  Pollexf en  writes  : — 

**  Kirkwall,  25th  Dec.  1833. 

**  Sir, — I  received  your  letter  of  the  20th  Curt,  enquiring  whether,  as  vassals  of  the  Crown,  I,  or 
any  off  my  Tenants  in  St.  Ola,  have  been  in  use  to  pasture  Cattle,  horses,  or  sheep  on  any  of  the 
Commons  in  the  said  parish,  or  cut  Peats  or  Turf  therefrom,  and  what  part  of  these  Commons  had 
been  so  used.  In  answer  to  which  you  will  please  be  informed  that  my  tenants  in  the  farms  of 
Holland,  Seater,  and  Gillis  (in  the  Earldom)  have  been  in  the  practice  of  pasturing  on  the  Commons 
to  the  East  and  N.-East  of  Kirkwall,  and  also  the  cattle  of^  Weyland,  m  the  Bishoprick,  on  said 
Commons,  and  have  from  time  immemorial  cut  Peats  or  Turf  out  of  what  is  generally  known  by  the 
designation  of  the  Holm  hills,  beyond  the  meadow  of  Lair.  The  tenants  in  Orquil,  Instabilly,  and 
Ferrawel,  in  Scapa,  have  pastured  their  cattle  on  the  Commons  to  the  west  and  north  of  Kirkwall, 
and  cut  Peats  and  Turf  in  mosses  adjoining. 

**  No  Grassum,  so  far  as  known  to  me,  was  ever  paid  or  demanded  for  these  privileges,  with  the 
exception  of  Six  pence  p.  head  bv  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall  for  Sheep  pastured  around  Whiti^ord  Hill,  to 
the  west,  in  name  of  Shepherd's  fee,  for  attending  them.  I  am  unable  to  condescend  as  to  the 
number  of  Horses,  Cattle,  and  Sheep  annually  so  pastured  by  my  Tenants  in  St.  Ola,  but  so  far  as 
known  to  me,  the  right  has  never  been  disputed.  But  enjoyed  from  time  immemorial. — I  am,  Sir,  your 
most  obed.  Servant,  Thomas  Pollexfen." 

In  answer  to  Mr  Graham's  circular,  Mr  Shireff  writes  :— 

"  Kirkwall,  2l8t  Jany.  1834. 

**  Dear  Sir, — On  my  return  from  the  South  Country,  I  found  your  circular,  addressed  to  the 
Vassals  and  Tenants  of  the  Crown  in  this  parish,  of  the  18th  ulto.,  but  I  have  been  so  much  occupied 
with  official  business  since  my  return,  that  I  have  only  now  time  to  reply  to  it. 

"  I  have  been  in  the  practice  of  pasturing  my  cattle,  varying  from  two  to  six  in  number,  whenever 
I  saw  fit,  from  1826  till  the  present  time,  upon  the  Common  lying  to  the  Eastward  of  the  Burgh  of 
Kirkwall,  and  upon  the  East  and  West  side  of  the  Holm  road,  and  never  was  interrupted  during  the 
whole  period  in  the  exercise  of  the  right  in  question — in  the  meadow  of  Lair  and  to  the  southward  of 
it.  1  have  likewise  been  in  the  practice  of  cutting  peats,  fuel,  feal,  and  divot  upon  this  Commonty 
daring  the  whole  of  the  above-mentioned  period,  and  I  have  exercised  the  same  right  of  pasturage, 
with  the  addition  of  a  few  sheep  in  the  Commons  lying  to  the  westward  of  Corse,  etc.,  and  south  and 
north  of  the  Stromness  Road.     During  the  whole  period  in  question,  I  never  paid  any  grassum  or 


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294  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

other  acknowledgement  for  the  exercise  of  the  rights  of  the  Commonty  I  have  stated,  exoeptinff  the 
rent  for  the  possession  of  Billhead,  which  I  occupy  as  tenant  of  the  Crown,  and  the  rent  of  my  house 
in  Kirkwall. 

**  I  send  you  some  papers  which  I  laid  my  hand  on  the  other  day,  which  may  be  of  serWce  to  you 
in  expiscating  the  rights  of  parties  in  the  Commons  in  the  district  of  Stromness.  When  you  are  done 
with  them,  you  can  hand  them  to  the  Sheriff  Clerk  to  be  put  up  with  other  records  of  Court. — I 
remain,  Dear  Sir,  yours  very  truly,  (Signed)        Chas.  Shirieff. 

"Thos.  Graham,  Esq.,  Crantit." 

Mr  Graham  took  an  active  interest  in  public  affairs,  and  has  left  many  documents,  chiefly 
answers  to  communications  from  himself,  proving  his  attention  alike  to  the  interests  of  the 
Crown  and  of  the  community.  On  Ms  death,  in  1835,  he  was  succeeded  in  the  office  by  his  son, 
Alexander.  This  gentleman's  commission  was  cancelled  in  1840,  and  Mr  James  Spence,  who 
had  been  clerk  in  the  office  for  fourteen  years,  was  appointed  Crown  Chamberlain,  and  went 
to  live  at  Crantit. 

In  1861,  Mr  Spence  was  succeeded  by  his  brother,  John.  Under  the  methodical  care  of 
the  Spences,  and  of  those  trained  by  them,  the  work  of  the  office  has  become  thoroughly 
systematised.  When  Crantit  was  sold  by  the  Crown,  Mr  Spence  transferred  the  work  of  the 
office  to  a  house  which  he  had  purchased  in  Nicolson  Street. 

On  his  retirement,  in  1871,  Mr  Spence  was  succeeded  by  his  assistant,  Mr  James 
Barnett,  who,  since  1825,  is  the  sixth  Receiver  of  the  Bishopric  rents  and  the  fifth  Crown 
Chamberlain.  Mr  Bamett  removed  the  office  to  Victoria  Street,  to  the  greater  convenience 
of  all  concerned.  At  his  death,  1898,  no  new  appointment  was  made.  The  collection  of  the 
Crown  rents  was  put  into  the  Inland  Revenue  Office.  The  beneficent  English  government, 
which  has  robbed  us  of  our  Bishopric  lands,  deems  it  waste  to  expend  a  salary  on  an  Orcadian 
Crown  Chamberlain. 

South  of  the  Crown  Chamberlain's  house  was  the  old  Post  Office.  At  one  time  this 
tenement  belonged  to  John  Traill  of  Elsness,  but  it  had  its  local  fame  not  from  the  proprietor 
but  from  a  tenant. 

In  our  gay  little  capital,  with  Assemblies  established  as  fixtures  for  every  second  week 
during  the  season,  an  accomplished  master  of  dancing  and  deportment  was  an  absolute 
necessity.  William  Troup  came  to  Kirkwall  to  supply  this  felt  want,  and  brought  with  him 
his  wife,  Katherine  Innes.  They  made  this  house  their  home,  and  here  Mr  Troup  drilled  his 
classes  in  the  graceful  glide  of  the  minuet.  But  time  led  William  Troup  off  the  floor  and  left 
Ejitherine  Innes  a  widow.  And  here  the  usually  unsympathetic  Records  of  Sasine  lead  us  to 
believe  that  Mrs  Troupes  declining  years  were  not  uncared  for.  From  the  persistent  manner 
n  which  it  is  recorded,  through  several  changes  of  proprietorship,  that  this  house  was 
"  formerly  possessed  by  William  Troup,  dancing  master,  thereafter  by  Katherine  Innes,  his 
relict,  and  Mally  Troup,  their  daughter,"  it  is  forced  upon  the  reader  that  "  Mally "  was  the 
rent  payer.  Miss  Troup  was  necessarily  well  known,  and  was  certainly  much  appreciated  in 
the  town  as  her  father's  assistant,  and  on  the  death  of  Mr  Troup  she  took  up  her  father's 
work  and  continued  to  instruct  young  Kirkwall,  in  whatever  sets  and  figures  were  then  in 
vogue,  in  the  Town  Hall, 

So  popular  was  Miss  Troup  that  a  vessel  belonging  to  the  port  was  named  after  her,  the 

"  Charming  Mally."    The  work  of  this  vessel  was  not  always  so  honest  as  that  of  her 

godmother.    In  1751  she  was  evidently  running  contraband  spirits,  as  will  be  seen  by  the 

following  letter,  addressed  : — 

"Mr ,  To 

Arthur  ScoUay, 

Commander  of  the  Charming 

Mally  of  Kirkwall. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  295 

*'  Sir, — Un  ansur  to  yours,  pleas  know  I  received  on  Board  your  ship  faive  Barrals,  on  half- 
Hogahad,  forty-twoo  ankers,  Contents  all  unknon  to  me,  which  I  Deliverd  all  to  John  Sticklar,  and  I 
am  ebel  to  Depone  yt.  same  if  Demanded. — Your  Heml.  Servant, 

(Signed)       Duncan  Ferguson." 

The  veracious  Duncan  knew  nothing  of  what  was  in  the  casks,  but  the  accompanying 
"  Note  of  the  appreciation  of  the  Spirits "  shows  quantity  and  value,  and  at  the  same  time 
gives  some  insight  into  the  lucrative  nature  of  the  trade  of  the  successful  smuggler  : — 

86  Gallons  fforeiffn  Spirits,  commonly  called  Hamburgh  Gin,  at  1  sh.  p.  Gallon £4    6  0 

323  Gallons  Hamburgh  Brandy,  valued  at  2/ p.  Gallon 32    6  0 

40  Gallons  Hamburgh  Corn  Waters,  @  1/ p.  Gallon 2    0  0 

22  Gallons  Reid  Wine,  @  1/ p.  Gallon 10  0 

£39  12    0 

The  value  is,  of  course,  in  Scots  money.  All  this  liquor  cost  £3  6s  stg.,  and  the  cheapest 
of  it,  the  gin,  was  sold  at  l^d  a  gill. 

The  house  which  now  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  dancing  school  was  built  by  Mr 
Archibald  Millar,  draper.  Archibald  Garrioch,  son  of  Gilbert  Garrioch,  Holm,  was  ap- 
prenticed to  Mr  Millar,  and  afterwards  married  his  daughter.  In  1830,  Mr  Garrioch  was 
appointed  postmaster  in  succession  to  Mr  Sands,  and  from  that  time  this  house  continued  to 
be  the  Post  Office  of  the  Burgh  till  the  building  of  the  new  Town  Hall.  It  is  now  the 
residence  of  Mr  Nicol  Spence,  Provost  of  Kirkwall,  and  his  wife,  a  daughter  of  the  late  Mr 
Garrioch. 

Behind  the  three  houses  last  noticed,  or  rather  behind  their  gardens,  was  the  yard  called 
the  "  Butts,"  an  enclosure  of  somewhere  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  square.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  when  the  building  of  the  Grammar  School  in  the  kirkyard  was 
interdicted,  this  was  one  of  the  places  offered  to  the  town  as  a  site.  But,  though  suitable 
enough  in  some  respects,  it  was,  fortunately  for  after  time,  discarded  as  being  too  small  and 
too  far  up  town.  How  this  yard  got  its  name  cannot  now  be  definitely  traced,  but  "  Butts  " 
and  the  adjacent  "  Butquoy "  at  once  suggest  the  idea  of  archery  practice.  Possibly  these 
were  the  pla^^es  where,  in  pre-protestant  times,  on  Sunday  afternoons,  in  obedience  to  statute, 
the  parishioners  assembled  to  hold  their  shooting  matches. 

In  1857,  the  "Butts"  was  sold  by  Government,  and  bought  by  the  late  Mr  Ranken, 
Procurator-Fiscal.  In  1882,  the  three  men  to  whom  the  lie  of  the  place  made  it  of  most 
value,  purchased  it  from  Mrs  Ranken.  These  were  Archibald  Garrioch,  postmaster  ;  James 
Barnett,  Crown  Chamberlain  j  and  Charles  Slater,  merchant.  They  divided  it  into  three 
equal  parts  running  longitudinally  east  and  west.  The  two  former  simply  joined  their  shares 
to  their  old  gardens,  while  Mr  Slater,  who  had  bought  the  old  manse,  but  who  had  lost  his 
garden  through  the  erection  of  the  County  Buildings,  found  a  very  convenient  kail-yard  in 
his  third  share  of  the  "  Butts." 

South  of  the  old  Post  Office  is  the  site  of  the  mansion  of  Traill  of  Elsness.  A  richly 
carved  lintel,  one  of  the  most  elaborate  of  KirkwalFs  old  memorial  stones,  marks  the  doorway 
of  the  ancient  dwelling-house.  The  monogram  is  I.T.  H.S.— John  Traill  and  Helen 
Stewart— and  the  date  (1679)  is  the  year  in  which,  on  the  6th  of  March,  "  John  Traill,  Fiar  of 
Elsness,  was  married  to  Helen  Stewart,  relict  of  Peitter  Winchester." 

John  Traill  was  the  eldest  son  of  Patrick,  the  first  Traill  of  Elsness,  who  died  6th  Oct. 
1690.*  David,  the  second  son,  got  Patrick's  two  houses  on  the  Ramparts,  where,  as  has  been 
seen,  he  built  the  house  known  as  "  Traill's  Folly."    But  there  was  a  third  son,  Andrew,  of 

♦T.  B. 


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296  KIKKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

whom  Dr  Traill,  in  his  "  Genealogy,"  gives  us  the  meagre  history  that  he  was  born  1670,  and 
married  Anna  Nisbet,  13th  June  1700.  But,  in  a  letter*  to  David,  who  was  evidently  his 
favourite  brother,  Andrew  shows  that  he  had  had  some  experiences  : — 

**  Loveing  Brother, — I  am  verie  sory  that  I  should  have  depairted  from  Leith  and  not  left  you  a 
lyne  from  my  hand,  which  tyme  could  nott  permit,  wherefor  I  houp  you  will  have  me  excused,  what 
I  have  done  amiss  formerly,  God  willing,  shall  be  helped  in  tyme  comeing.  Yo  shall  know  yt.  I  am 
in  very  good  health,  glory  be  to  God  for  it,  wishing  all  way  es  to  hear  the  lyke  from  you,  your  kynd 
beddfellow,  and  children.  Yo  shall  know  that  1  am  aboard  of  ane  Inslish  man  of  warr  called  the 
Shirenes8,t  of  Ingland,  by  the  providence  of  God  under  the  conduct  of  one  Capt.  Riggs.  We  are 
now  lying  at  a  place  called  the  boayt  of  the  Norr,  as  you  have  it  in  deat  of  your  letter,  from  which 
place,  by  the  providence  of  God,  we  intend  to  sail  for  Holland,  convoay  to  some  Inglish  Lord.  I  houp, 
Brother,  yo  will  not  be  strange  in  letting  me  hear  from  you  how  yo,  your  Mother,  and  Beddfellow  are, 
for  it  should  be  matter  of  great  comfort  to  me  to  hear  from  you  all.  1  doe  not  intend,  God  willing,  to 
stay  long  aboard,  for  it  is  a  very  troubblesome  thing  to  be  aboard  of  a  man  of  warr — we  are  never  at 
rest  night  ore  day.  Yo  shall  know  yt.  the  Inglish  and  French  fleet  mett  toeaither,  &  the  French 
have  got  a  great  defett,  for  yr.  arc  as  good  as  50  sail  burned  &  sunk  of  ym.  Yo  shall  shortly  have 
a  day  of  thiuiksgiwing  for  it.  Now,  brother,  this  is  all  upon  heast,  but,  God  willing,  at  more  length 
I  shall  let  you  hear  from  me.  This  is  all  at  preasant.  With  my  love  to  your  selfe,  Beddfellow,  and 
children,  and  to  all  friends, — I  rest  your  Loveing  Brother  to  death, 

(Signed)        Andrew  Traill. 

*'  From  aboard  of  the  Shireness,  lying  at  the  boay  of  the  Norr,  in  Ingland,  the  25  of  May  1692. 

**  For  the  much  respected  David  Traill,  Merchant  in  Kirkwall  in  Orkney." 


Stone  over  Doorway  at  34  Victoria  Street. 

Andrew  Traill  does  not  state  whether  he  was  in  the  battle  off  Cape  La  Hogue,  19th  May 
1692.  Perhaps  the  "  Shireness  "  was  at  once  sent  off  by  Admiral  Russell  to  convey  the  news 
of  the  victory  to  London. 

John  Traill  was  Helen  Stewart's  third  husband,  and  when  this  very  taking  lady  died, 
Traill  married  Margaret,  daughter  of  John  Stewart  of  Brugh  and  Margaret  Ballenden.  This 
lady  had  for  tocher  the  liferent  of  Housby. 

Their  son,  John,  the  third  and  last  Traill  of  Elsness,  married  Sibilla,  daughter  of  George 
Traill,  Chamberlain  of  the  Earldom.  He  was  one  of  the  traditional  heroes  of  Culloden,  and 
an  occupant  of  the  "  Gentleman's  Ha'."  For  his  seditious  practices  in  Orkney,  the  house  of 
Elsness  was  burned  by  Captain  Mudie,  1746.  He  died,  1758,  and  Elsness  went  to  his 
daughter,  Elizabeth,  who  married  John  Urquhart,  merchant,  1794. 

A  story  of  this  marriage,  current  in  Orkney  yet,  and  believed  by  some,  is  to  the  effect  that 
Miss  Traill,  deeply  in  love  with  the  handsome  tailor,  was,  at  the  same  time,  so  much  affected 
by  a  sense  of  his  social  inferiority  that  she  had  the  marriage  ceremony  performed  in  a  dark 
room. 
*  Favoured  by  William  MacLennan,  Esq.,  Grainbank.      f  Probably  Sheemess.      t  Buoy  of  the  Nore. 


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VICTORIA  STREET. 


297 


But  the  Urquharts  had  long  held  a  good  position  in  Sanday.  John  Urquhart,  merchant 
in  Sanday,  as  factor  for  James  Hamilton,  obtains  decree  of  ejection  against  Peter  Elphinston^ 
tenant  in  Lopness,  2nd  December  1732.  The  steelbow  on  the  lands  held  by  Elphiuston  is 
given  as  :— 

28  Horses,  at  £26  Scots  each 

8  Ploughs,  with  their  gear,  @  £3 

10  Forks,  @  12/ 

24  Kebbers,*  @  4/        

24  pair  Creels,  @  12/  per  pair  

8  Harrows,  @  £1         

Seed  and  ServanU'  bolls,  80  m.  oats,  @  £2 
148  m.  4  sett.  l)ear  on  bear  pundlers,  £2 
300  thraves  oat  fodder  and  300  bear  fodder,  @  4/ 


£728    0 
24    0 


10  16    0 


14    8 
8    0 


437    6    8 
170    0    0 


£1392  10    8 
The  absence  of  carts  and  the  presence  of  clibbers  and  of  creels,  sold  by  the  pair,  is 

significant  in  the  history  of  Orcadian  farming. 

John  Traill's  next  neighbour  southward  was  John  Richan,  litster.    Richan's  house  is  now 

represented  by  Mr  Tinch's  Royal  Hotel.    An 

old  lintel  preserved  over  a  door  in  the  close 

represents  a  man  and  a  woman  engaged  in  the 

work  of  dyeing.     This  stone  was  doubtless 

carved  at  Richan's  order,  and  it  is  thus  con- 
siderably over  two  hundred  years  old.     That 

it  is  so  well  preserved  is  due  to  the  fact  that 

until  a  few  years  ago  it  was  inside  the  house, 

and  was  removed  from  its  original  position 

when  the  old  building  was  undergoing  repairs. 


c^^^^ 


John  Richan  was  a  man  of  substance,  re- 
spected by  his  neighbours,  and  trusted  by  the 
church.  In  1676,  he  got  permission  to  erect 
a  stone  to  the  memory  of  his  brother-in-law, 
Jared  Black,  who  had  married  Helen  Richan. 
This  stone  has  the  distinction  of  being  the 
only  monument  in  the  Cathedral  which  carries 
a  Greek  inscription.  It  invites  the  passer-by 
to  behold  the  goal  or  end  of  life,  and  it  was 
probably  written  by  John  Spence,  Session 
Clerk,  who  puts  part  of  the  same  motto  at  the 
end  of  one  of  his  minute-books.  Richan's 
tombstone  stands  in  the  north  aisle  of  the 
nave  of  the  Cathedral,  and  is  inscribed  : — "  I.  R  <fe  I.  L. — Here  rests  the  corps  of  ane 
virtuous  man,  John  Richan,  Merchant  Burgess  of  Kirkwall,  who  was  married  with  Janet 

*  Klibbers,  wooden  pack  saddles. 

2q 


Tombstone  of  John  Richan,  in  St.  Magnus 
Cathedral. 


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KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

Lonttit,  and  had  with  her  8  children,  viz.,  John,  Robert,    Margaret,  Isabel,  Catherine, 
and  Jean  Richans.     But  William  and  James  Richans  went  before  their  father  to  enjoy 
celestial  glory. — Duxit  uxorem,  ^1  Jan.  1666^  obiit  6th  Feb.  1679. 
Aniio  jEtatu  35."    He  was  succeeded  in  his  house  and  business  by 
bis  eldest  son,  John. 

In  1698,  probably  the  date  of  his  marriage,  John  Richan  gave 
liferent  of  this  house  to  his  wife,  Margaret  Stewart. 

Among  others  who  have  occupied  Richan's  house,'  we  find  the 
name  of  Alexander  Logie,  father  of  the  late  Rev,.  Dr  Logie. 

One  of  the  last  money-lending  transactions  of  the  Established 
Church  Session  was  a  loan  of  £100  on  a  bond  over  this  house  in 
1788.  William  Breraner,  wright,  and  George  Rendall,  steward  on 
board  a  trading  vessel  at  Leith,  were  the  borrowers,  and  Andrew 
Liddell,  Treasurer,  and  George  Bany,  minister,  were  the  lenders. 
In  1814,  the  money  was  repaid  in  full,  and  a  receipt  granted  by 
the  Rev.  Robert  Yule  in  name  of  the  Session,  Dr  Barry  having  Carved  Stone  at  38 

been  tmnslated  to  Shapinsay  in  July  1793.      In   Shapinsay,  the  Victoria  Street. 

Doctor  wrote  his  famous  History  of  C)rkney. 

The  southern  side  of  lUehan's  close,  now  the  property  of  Captain  Johnston,  was  a  double 
tenement  which  had  belonged  to  Harry  Colville,  minister  of  Orphir.  Mr  Colville  had  been 
presented  to  that  living  in  1580.  He  afterwards  became  an  instrument  in  the  hands  of  £arl 
Patrick  for  working  out  some  of  his  tyrannical  designs.  Out  of  revenge,  when  staying  at  the 
manse  of  Nesting,  he  was  murdered  by  four  brothers  of  the  name  of  Sinclair.  He  "  was 
hunted  to  a  savage  death  on  the  Noup  of  Nesting,  9th  July  1596."  "  Gilbert  Pacock, 
servitor  to  the  Master  of  Orkney,  was  delaited  airt  and  pairt  of  the  slauchter  of  the  said 
Hary  before  the  Justic-deput,  7th  Augt.  after,  and  sentenced  to  be  tane  to  the  Mercat  Croce, 
Edinburgh,  and  his  head  to  be  stricken  fra  his  body."* 

**  James  Colville  of    Huip,  air    of   Wm. 
Colville  of  Midhouse,  and  oy  and  air  of  Harie 

1"  -      ^    '  "    ,  ■  ^  ■  ^'  ^  Colville,  Persoun  of  Orphir,"  sold  this  house  to 

"■'  '  '  \  Andrew  Ellis,  Notary  Public  and  Town  Clerk 

of  Kirkwall. 
:  •  ti"    '  ^  '^^^  Richan,  a  granddaughter  of   Ellis, 

^  -^^./^s—J*— ^  r  married  George  Ritchie,  one  of  the  bailies  of 

..  t.^«^%W  "  Kirkwall,  and  got  that  half  of  her  grandfather's 

'  '^  TP^  house  next  the  street.    Andrew  Strang  married 

^  Elspeth  Richan,  and  occupied  the  other  half. 

Strang  bought  from  Robert  Morrison  a  piece 
Carved  Stone  at  38  Victoria  Street.  of  ground,  60  feet  by  48,  a  part  of  Quoyangry, 

and  here  he  sank  a  well  and  built  a  dyehouse. 
Ellis'  peat  brae  was  across  the  street,  and  extended  back  to  the  Peerie  Sea.    This  also  was 
divided  between  his  granddaughters,  Mrs  Ritchie  having  the  part  next  the  street,  and  Mrs 
Strang  that  nearest  the  Oyce. 

Strang  is  a  Fair  Isle  name,  but  it  is  found  dotted  here  and  there  over  Orkney,  in  Kirk- 
wall, South  Ronaldshay,  and  Sanday.  It  is  also  found  in  its  other  form.  Strong.  In  the 
SheriflF-Court  books  we  have  Andrew  Strang,  son  of  the  late  David  Strang,  "clerk  of  the 
Burgh  of  Pittewaime,"  lending  £30  to  John  Cromartie  of  Skea,  5th  August  1623. 

*  Pitcaim,  Crim.  Trials. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  299 

Another,  Andrew  Strang,  messenger,  was  appointed  Session-clerk  and  schoolmaster  in 
South  Ronaldshay,  1st  November  1633. 

Andrew  Strang,  dyer,  was  married  to  Elizabeth  Richan,  probably  in  1690.  In  1695,  he 
seems  to  have  been  rebuilding  some  part  of  his  house,  for  a  stone,  bearing  his  initials  and 
those  of  his  wife,  with  the  above  date,  was  removed  from  here  by  the  late  Dr  Stewart, 
who  placed  it  over  the  door  of  his  surgery. 


Lintel  at  38  Victoria  Street. 

Strang  had  two  half-brothers,  George  and  David,  and  having  no  children,  he  left  his  pro- 
perty to  George,  subject  to  his  wife^s  liferent.  But  a  remarkable  condition  was  attached  : — 
"That  at  what  time,  or  how  soon  after  the  decease  of  the  said  Andrew  Strang,  it  shall 
happen,  David  Strang,  brother  German  to  the  said  George,  to  make  payment  or  satisfaction  to 
the  said  George  of  the  sum  of  one  hundred  pounds  Scotts  money,  haill  and  together  in  one 
sum  within  St.  Magnus  Kirk  in  Kirkwall,  in  that  place  thereof  where  the  Courts  are  ordinarily 
holden,  the  said  George  being  lawfully  warned  ti)  the  receipt  thereof  in  presence  of  ane  nottar 
and  witnesses,  as  effeires  upcm  forty  days'  prem<mition  to  be  made  of  before  "—then  Dfivid 
got  the  property.  If  George  should  refuse  the  money,  David  might  place  the  hundred  pounds 
in  the  hands  of  the  Provost,  of  one  of  the  Bailies,  or  of  the  Dean-of-Guild,  and  claim  the 
estate.  Nothing  further  is  heard  of  this  redemption,  but,  in  May  1703,  David  Strang, 
"  Brother  consanguine  of  Andrew  Strang,"  got  the  house,  the  peat  brae,  and  the  kailyard, 
Elizabeth  Richan  being  liferented  in  them. 

David  was  Burgh  Treasurer,  and,  on  the  3rd  April  1716,  "as  he  is  intending  for 
Edinburgh,''  he  is  instructed  to  buy  "  ane  ell  and  thrie  quarters  of  the  best  six  quarters  broad 
green  cloth,  fitt  for  an  cloath  for  the  Magistrates  loft,  the  present  death  being  moth-eaten  ;  as 
also  to  buy  ane  large  good  printed  Bible,  to  make  up  five  Bibles  to  the  Provost  and  Baillies, 
and  to  put  ane  handsome  cover  of  red  yron  ;  as  also  four  hats,  with  yellow  Gallowses,  to  the 
officers  ;  and  to  place  the  pryce  of  all  to  his  accompts." 

He  purchased  that  part  of  the  tenement  which  had  belonged  to  Bailie  Ritchie  and  his 
wife,  so  that  now  his  property,  intersected  by  the  roadway,  ran  from  Quoyangry  to  the  Peerie  Sea. 

His  son,  Robert,  who  first  saw  the  light  in  Johnston's  Close,  14th  July  1721,  had  a 
remarkable  career.  He  was  a  born  artist,  and  took  to  the  pencil  naturally.  Had  he  persisted 
he  would,  without  doubt,  have  stood  in  the  front  rank  of  eighteenth  century  painters. 

The  "  Memoirs  of  Sir  R.  Strange  and  J.  Lumisden,"  by  J.  Dennistoun,  their  grand- 
nephew,  is  an  exceedingly  interesting  work.  Having  been  written  after  Sir  Robert  and  his 
son,  Thomas,  had  both  enjoyed  the  honour  of  knighthood,  the  biographer  naturally  links  the 
Strangs  of  Kirkwall  on  to  the  nearest  family  of  the  name  that  bore  arms,  and  this  he  found  at 


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300  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

Balcaskie.    In  this  Mr  Dennistoun  simply  follows  Sir  Robert  himself,  who  says  : — "  My  father 

was  a  descendant  from  an  ancient  family  of  Balcaskie,  in  the  county  of  Fife  ;  my  mother  was 

the  daughter  of  John  Scollay  of  Hunton,  Esquire, 

in  the  Orkneys.*'    Mr  Dennistoun  utterly  ignores 

all   connection  with   trade,  but   acknowledges  _f ^^' 

Andrew  Strang,  notary  public,  who,  **in  1642,  tg  ^vr 

Iield  landed  property  in   the  island  of  South  /A^yYT^  *^*^^^^^^?^  ^ 

Honuldshay." 

**  David,  the  father  of  Sir  Robert,  left 
three  sons  by  his  first  wife,  Jean  Boynd.  His 
landed  property  and  some  houses  in  Kirkwall 

^ere  settled  on  James,  the  eldest  of  these,  to  whom  he  bequeathed,  as  a  special  legacy, '  the 
number  of  twelve  double  silver  spoons,  marked  A.S.  and  KR,'  and  their  initials  carry  us  back 
to  Andrew,  the  notary-public  of  1642."  ♦ 

Now,  these  initials  simply  carry  us  back  to  David's  elder  brother,  Andrew  Strang,  litst«r, 
and  his  wife,  Elizabeth  Richan,  who  lived  and  dyed  in  the  Laverock  of  Kirkwall,  and  left 
their  property,  won  by  honest  industry,  to  Sir  Robert's  father. 

But  fur  the  knighthood,  this  kind  of  nonsense  never  would  have  been  perpetrated,  and  it 
is  the  only  blot  on  the  pages  of  a  charming  work.  But  now,  as  then,  the  process  of  pedigree 
weaving  goes  on,  and  is  an  almost  necessary  accompaniment  to  the  accumulation  of  wealth. 
Every  novu^  homo  wishing  arms  tacks  himself  on  to  some  one  of  the  same  name  who  has 
honestly  won  his  spurs,  or  to  one  who  has  already  gone  through  the  same  series  of  misrepre- 
sentations necessary  to  establish  a  right  to  crests  and  mottoes. 

Sir  Robert  says  :— '*  In  my  earlier  years,  till  towards  the  age  of  fourteen,  I  received  such 
education  as  the  country  affiirded,  and  which  terminated  in  an  excellent  Grammar  School, 
where  I  attained  some  general  knowledge  of  the  classics."  His  biographer  says :— "  Sir 
Robert  received  his  classical  education  at  Kirkwall,  in  Orkney,  under  the  care  of  a  learned, 
worthy,  and  respected  gentleman,  Mr  Murdoch  M'Kenzie,  also  an  Orcadian,  grandson  of  the 
good  bishop  of  that  name,  and  his  pupil's  relation."  The  accuracy  of  this  last  statement  is 
more  than  doubtful. 

But  the  key  to  the  biographer's  box  of  pedigree  lies  in  this :— **  To  refined  minds,  a 
consciousness  of  gentle  blood  is  an  equivalent  for  many  of  Fortune's  gifts ;  yet  the  long 
pedigree  of  these  Fifeshire  lairds  owes,  more  lustre  to  his  reputation  than  its  chieftainship 
could  impart  to  his  name." 

Speaking  for  himself,  as  young  Strang,  Sir  Robert  says  : — "  My  natural  inclination  was  to 
go  to  sea,  having  been  often  accustomed  to  pleasure  upon  the  water  and  visiting  many  of  the 
vessels  who  either  arrived  or  took  their  departure." 

But  Jean  Scollay,  like  all  mothers,  wished  her  boy  to  stay  at  home,  and  at  last  prevailed 
upon  him  to  go  into  the  office  of  a  Kirkwall  lawyer.  But  he  says  : — "  I  had  not  been  long 
here  before  my  time  began  to  hang  heavy  on  my  hands,  nor  had  I  lost  sight  of  the  agreeable 
hours  I  had  passed  upon  the  water." 

In  this  office  he  had  not  sufficient  work  to  keep  him  employed,  and  when  his  pen  was  idle 
he  amused  himself  with  his  pencil.  "  I  had  frequently  been  accustomed  to  drawing,  without 
knowing  its  tendency,  for  never  had  an  idea  of  art  crossed  the  Pentland  Firth.  Living  in  a 
remote  corner  of  the  world,  genius  had  not  here  its  proper  latitude  either  for  exertion  or 
information." 

That  he  was  pleased  with  his  drawings  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  he  preserved  them  and 

*  Deonistoun. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  801 

brought  them  with  him  when  he  afterwards  came  to  Edinburgh.  And  here  he  furnishes  one 
of  the  best  illustrations  of  Shakespeare's  text,  "  There's  a  divinity  that  shapes  our  ends,  rough 
hew  them  how  we  will" 

He  had  a  half-brother,  a  son  of  David  Strang  by  his  first  wife,  Jean  Boynd,  settled  in 
Edinbuigh  as  a  writer.  Robert  did  not  personally  know  him,  probably  had  never  seen  his 
long-al^nt,brother.  ^On  ji^y. arrival  at  Edinburgh,  no  reception ^^could*  be.  more  kind  than 
that  which  I  experienced — ^in  the  sequel,  indeed,  he  proved  to  me  a  father.  Tears  of  gratitude 
at  this  moment  bedew  my  cheeks,  and  whilst  breathing  I  must  venerate  his  memory." 

This  brother  secured  for  young  Strang  an  appointment  on  board  of  the  Alborough, 
man-of-war  of  twenty  guns,  commanded  by  Captain  Robinson,  on  the  easy  terms  that  he 
should  take  a  cruise  for  a  few  weeks,  and,  if  he  did  not  like  the  sea,  he  should  receive  his 
discharge  when  the  ship  returned  to  her  station  in  Leith  Roads.  Captain  Robinson  sent  the 
youth  to  mess  with  the  midshipmen,  but  at  the  same  time  committed  him  to  the  care  of  a 
sub-lieutenant,  Mr  Sommers.  The  cruise  was  protracted  from  several  causes..  When  the 
Alborough  had  made  her  purposed  run  along  the  English  coast,  and  was  about  to  return,  she 
was  detained  at  Gravesend  to  embark  the  Swedish  Ambassador  and  his  family  fur  transport  to 
Gottenburg.  Strang  had  left  Leith  in  the  middle  of  summer,  and  the  weather  had  hitherto 
been  fine.  The  lad  thought  that  nothing  could  be  more  jolly  than  a  sailor's  life,  but  the 
passage  across  the  North  Sea  made  him  change  his  mind.  It  lasted  several  weeks,  and  during 
the  whole  time  he  was  horribly  sick  ;  but  poor  Strang  was  kept  most  strictly  at  work.  In 
this  we  see  the  judicious  care  of  his  brother,  who  was  a  personal  friend  of  Capt.  Robinson. 
Arrived  at  Gothenburg,  he  went  ashore  with  Mr  Sommers,  who  enlivened  the  visit  by 
rehearsing  the  hardships  of  a  sailor's  life  and  the  slowness  .ai)d  precariousness  of  promotion, 
illustrating  the  tale  by  his  own  experience,  and  winding  up  the  whole  witk — *'  Bob,  if  you 
have  any  other  alternative,  quit  the  sea,  and  you'll  afterwards  bless  me  for  my  advice." 

The  return  voyage  clinched  the  nail.  He  says  :—"  Our  passage  back  to  England  seemed 
to  be  as  tedious  as  it  had  been  to  Sweden.  It  was  now  late  in  the  season,  and  we  had  reason 
to  apprehend  the  equinoctial  storms,  which,  indeed,  we  soon  experienced.  They  were  both 
violent  and  of  a  long  duration.  For  many  days  our  fire  was  extinguished,  the  guns  lashed,  the 
topmasts  lowered,  the  sails  furled,  and  the  vessel  herself  left,  as  it  were,  to  the  discretion  of 
the  waves,  or  to  the  fury  of  a  merciless  element.  All  this  while  I  was  sick  to  death  and 
wished  myself  ashore." 

When  he  returned  his  brother  was  quite  prepared  to  hear  that  he  no  longer  had  any 
love  for  the  naval  profession.  Among  other  suggestions,  he  asked  Robert  what  was  his 
"  material  objection  at  being  with  Mr  Mackenzie  in  the  Orkneys."  The  reply  was—"  I  had 
none,  but  that  a  desire  of  going  to  sea  had  preponderated  with  me."  "  That  being  now  over, 
added  he,  would  you  like  to  return  to  him  ?  Or,  if  you  could  follow  the  same  profession  here, 
would  it  be  perfectly  eligible  to  you  supposing  I  should  undertake  to  breed  you  myself  1  I 
answered  it  would,  and  that  he  could  not  propose  to  me  a  question  that  could  make  me 
happier." 

Young  Strang,  now  back  at  oiBSce  work,  says  : — **  Before  leaving  my  native  country  I  had 
wrote  an  excellent  hand  of  write"— a  characteristic  of  old  time  Kirkwall  boys  generally.  The 
winter  was  passed  by  him  in  copying  such  papers  as  his  brother  put  before  him,  while  he 
filled  in  his  spare  time  by  multiplying  his  drawings,  "  keeping  everything,  however,  as  much 
as  I  could  out  of  sight."  "  One  day  my  brother  came  in,  rather  by  times,  with  a  resolution  of 
passing  the  whole  of  the  afternoon  at  home  in  order  to  expedite  some  writings  which  were  in 
a  hurry.  He  sent  me  some  meesages  after  dinner  which  employed  a  considerable  part  of  the 
afternoon.    During  my  absence  on  this  occasion,  some  papers  which  had  been  mislaid  he  had 


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S02  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  OHKNEYS. 

rummaged  for  in  the  bureau  at  which  I  used  to  write,  where,  unfortunately,  he  put  his  hands 
upon  a  budget  of  drawings  I  had  carefully  concealed.  These  drawings  were  no  more  than 
little  sketches  I  had  done  in  pen  and  ink  ;  some  few  from  ray  own  fancy  and  others  from  the 
ornaments  and  title  pages  of  books.  On  my  return  I  little  dreamt  of  this  detection,  nor  did  I 
even  suspect  it.  No  conduct  on  the  part  of  my  brother  afforded  me  the  least  hint ;  on  the 
contrary,  he  was  placid  to  a  degree." 

"  There  was  at  this  time  settled  at  Edinburgh  Mr  Richard  Cooper,  an  engraver."  To  this 
gentleman  young  Strang's  drawings  were  taken,  with  the  result  that  a  six  years'  apprentice- 
ship was  agreed  upon,  and  the  youth  began  the  career  which  immortalised  the  man. 

After  three  years  of  work  the  apprentice  became  home-sick,  and,  much  against  his 
employer's  will,  insisted  on  having  a  run  to  Orkney.  He  came  north,  "  elated  with  the  idea 
of  revisiting  the  town  of  Kirkwall,  the  seat  of  my  nativity,  which  my  imagination  had  formed 
to  be  one  of  the  elegant  cities  of  the  times,  and  not  even  a  second  to  Edinburgh."  **  We  had 
a  pleasant  passage,  which  we  performed  in  the  course  of  a  few  days,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the 
road  of  Kirkwall  upon  a  Sunday  morning.  We  got  on  shore  about  the  time  that  the  kirk  had 
assembled,  and  never  was  astonishment  like  mine ;  not  even  a  dog  was  to  be  seen  on  the 
streets.  The  solitude  of  the  place,  the  nakedness  of  the  houses— for  I  had  formed  to  my 
imagination  so  many  palaces — the  magnitude  of  the  Cathedral  Church,  which  diminished  every 
other  object,  were  to  me  the  whole  as  if  it  had  been  a  dream,  the  whole  a  piece  of  delusion."  * 

While  in  Orkney  he  got  a  number  of  commissions,  his  reputation  being  already  so  great 
that  "  many  were  desirous  of  possessing  something  of  my  engraving,  whether  in  seals,  crests, 
or  coats-of-arms."  Some  of  these  he  executed  in  Kirkwall,  and  some  he  took  with  him  to 
Edinburgh.  He  thus  made  many  new  friends  in  Orkney  ;  among  others,  William  Balfour  of 
Trenabie  and  Thomas  Traill  of  Holland,  whose  subsequent  kindness  to  him  at  the  time  of  the 
Jacobite  rebellion  was  like  to  have  got  them  into  trouble.  The  Jacobite  rebellion  had 
now  begun,  and  an  order  for  five  guineas,  sent  by  the  former  and  endorsed  by  the  latter,  was 
intercepted  and  brought  to  Dundas  of  Arniston,  then  Solicitor-General. 

Strang,  now  called  Strange,  joined  the  Prince's  army  for  the  reason  given  in  the  song  : — 

"  The  lasaea  a*  frae  south  tae  north  hae  vowed  baith  late  and  early, 
Tae  man  they'll  ne'er  gae  heart  or  hand  wha  wadna  fecht  for  Charlie." 

His  son,  Sir  Thomas,  writes:— **  My  excellent  mother,  warm  in  all  her  affecti(m.s,  and 
teeming  with  that  loyalty  for  which  her  family  has  been  distinguished,  made  it  a  condition 
with  her  lover,  betrothed  to  her  at  the  time  as  he  was,  that  he  should  fight  for  her  Prince." 

During  Charles  Edward's  stay  at  Edinburgh,  Strange  executed  for  him  a  portrait,  which 
many  years  afterwards  he  thought  of  improving  and  re-issuing.  While  the  rebel  army  lay  at 
Culloden,  he  prepared  a  plate  for  an  issue  of  paper  money,  and  had  printed  some  notes  when 
the  arrival  of  the  royal  forces  put  an  end  to  his  work.  Ffis  account  of  the  battle  is  very 
spirited  and  graphic.  The  Duke  of  Cumberland  had  reached  Nairn  on  the  14th  of  April,  and 
as  the  1 5th  w«is  his  birthday,  there  was  a  probability  of  his  resting  there  for  one  day  at  least. 
The  Prince  called  a  council  of  war  to  be  held  on  the  field,  and  **  proposed  a  plan  of  a  march, 
under  cloud  of  night,  to  attack  the  Duke's  army  by  surprise  and  to  force  his  camp.  This 
plan  was  worthy  of  any  of  the  great  heroes  of  antiquity  and  met  with  general  approbation, 
particularly  amongst  the  clans  :— 

♦  It  must  be  remembered  that  in  those  days  most  of  the  Kirkwall  houses  were  thatch-roofed. 
That  Strang  does  not  notice  this  is  perhaps  due  to  the  fact  that  St  John  Street,  where  he  lived  in 
Edinburgh,  was  close  to  the  foot  of  the  Cowgate,  then  a  suburban  district,  where  thatched  housea 
were  common.     What  he  missed  were  the  Idfty  buildings  of  the  High  Street  and  Canongate. 


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VICTORIA  STREET. 

'*  There  was  only  one  road  to  Nairn,  which  was  the  high  road,  and  this  "being  covered  in  manv 
places  with  villages,  it  was  necessary  to  avoid  it,  to  prevent  information  being  carried  to  the  Duke  s 
army. 

*'  The  next  alternative  was  to  attempt  a  way  along  the  foot  of  a  ridge  of  mountains  which  fronted 
the  sea,  but  had  scarcely  been  ever  trode  by  human  foot.  It  would  have  brought  us  in  upon  that 
part  of  the  enemy's  camp  from  which  they  could  apprehend  no  daneer.  It  lengthened,  indeed,  the 
road,  which,  in  the  sequel  and  from  the  shortness  of  the  night,  proved  our  misfortune. 

*'  The  night  was  favourable  to  our  wishes,  but  alas  !  such  a  road  was  never  travelled  ;  the  men 
in  general  were  frequently  up  to  the  ankles,  and  the  horses  in  many  places  extricated  themselves  with 
difficulty." 

Strange  was  one  of  the  Life  Quards,  a  cavalry  corps. 

**  But  the  short  night  came  to  a  close  before  the  tedious  march  was  accomplished. 

"  It  was  now  the  16th  of  April,  when  day  began  to  break  about  four  in  the  morning.  It  was 
indeed  a  dreadful  knell  to  us,  being  as  yet  about  four  long  miles  from  Nairn.  The  morning  was  fine,  and 
the  day  was  ushering  in  apace  ;  it  required  but  little  time  to  deliberate,  and  finding  it  impossible  to 
attack  the  Duke  by  surprise,  it  was  judged  expedient,  for  the  safety  of  the  army,  to  give  up  the 
enterprise  and  return  to  the  field  of  CuUoaen. 

"  We  had  got  but  a  few  miles  upon  the  road,  when  a  number  of  the  Guards,  finding  themselves 
overpowered  with  fatigue  and  ready  every  instant  to  drop  from  our  saddles,  came  to  a  resolution  of 
stopping.  We  were  shown  into  an  open  bam,  where  we  threw  ourselves  down  upon  some  straw, 
tyin^  our  horses  to  our  ankles,  and  the  people  assuring  us  that,  in  case  of  any  danger,  they  should 
awaken  us. 

"  They  were,  indeed,  as  good  as  their  promise,  for  we  had  slumbered  here  but  a  short  time 
before  a  woman  gave  us  the  alarm  that  the  Duke's  horse  were  in  sij(ht." 

They  instantly  mounted,  and  in  a  short  time  were  back  at  CuUoden,  where  the  Prince,  on 
their  arrival,  was  holding  a  council  of  war,  "  deliberating  whether  we  should  give  battle  to  the 
Duke  or,  circumstanced  as  the  army  was,  retire  and  wait  the  arrival  of  our  reinforcements. 
The  former  was  determined  on."  This  resolution  seemed  to  Strange  eminently  imprudent,  for 
he  continues  : — 

"  Let  us  for  an  instant  view  the  situation  of  this  army.  They  had,  for  many  weeks  before  the 
battle,  been  reduced  to  a  short  allowance  of  bread  ;  when  I  say  bread,  I  mean  oatmeal,  for  they  had 
no  other. 

"  Must  not  this  have  enfeebled  their  bodies  ? 

"They  had  passed  the  14th  and  following  night  under  arms  upon  the  field  of  battle,  every 
instant  expecting  the  Duke.  Upon  the  night  of  the  15th,  which  was  the  eve  of  the  battle,  they  had 
performed  the  march  I  have  described. 

"Judge,  then,  what  was  to  be  expected  from  such  an  army,  worn  out  with  fatigue,  and  at  this 
moment  short  of  the  common  necessaries  of  life,  and  outnumbered  upwards  of  two  to  one  by  their 
enemies  ;  for  the  Duke's  army  consisted  of  at  least  eleven  thousand  men  ;  that  of  the  Prince  did  not 
exceed  six,  of  which  we  shall  find  at  least  a  thousand  during  the  action  were  asleep  in  Culloden 
parks. 

"  What,  then,  can  ju6tify  the  deliberate  folly  and  madness  of  fighting  under  such  circumstances  ? 
But  our  time  was  come. 

"  No  line  was  as  yet  formed  ;  the  men  were  standing  in  clusters,  and  stragglers  in  small  numbers 
were  coming  up  from  all  quarters.  Overpowered  with  fatigue,  they  had  stopped  everywhere  on  the 
road,  and  were  now  joining  the  army." 

This  being  the  condition  of  the  Prince's  troops,  we  are  prepared  for  what  followed  :— 

**  An  order  of  battle  having  been  drawn  up,  the  Prince,  attended  bv  his  aides-de-camp  and  Lord 
Elcho's  Guards,  placed  himself  towards  the  centre,  behind  the  first  line.^' 


This  was  Strange's  situation  as  one  of  the  Guards. 

**  We  had  six  pieces  of  cannon,  two  placed  on  the  righ 
front  line. 
"  The  Duke  of  Cumberland  drew  up  his  army  in  three  lines." 


**  We  had  six  pieces  of  cannon,  two  placed  on  the  right,  two  on  the  left,  and  two  in  the  centre  of 
the  front  line. 


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304  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  centre,  which  fronted  the  Prince,  consisted  of  the  regiments  of  Wolfe,  Ligonier, 
Semphill,  Bligh,  and  Fleming.  The  royalists  had  sixteen  pieces  of  artillery—**  ten  were  placed 
in  the  first  line,  two  between  each  regiment,  and  six  pieces  in  the  second  line." 

'*  The  enemy  formed  at  a  considerable  distance,  and  marched  on  in  order  of  battle,  outlining  us 
both  on  the  right  and  on  the  left. 

"About  one  o*cloek  the. cannonading  began.  One  of  the  Prince's  grooms,  who  led  a  sumpter 
horse,  was  killed  on  the  spot ;  some  of  the  Guards  were  wounded,  as  were  sevenil  of  the  horse.  One, 
Austin,  a  very  worthy,  pleasant  fellow,  stood  on  my  left ;  he  rode  a  fine  mare,  which  he  was  accns* 
tomed  to  call  his  lady.  He  perceived  her  give  a  sudden  shrink,  and,  on  looking  around  him,  called 
out,  *  Alas,  I  have  lost  my  lady  !*  One  of  her  hind  legs  was  shot,  and  hanging  by  the  skin.  He  that 
instant  dismounted,  and,  endeavouring  to  push  her  out  of  the  ranks,  she  came  to  the  ground.  He 
took  his  gun  and  pistols  out  of  the  liolsters,  stepped  forward,  joined  the  foot,  but  was  never  more 
heard  of. 

**The  Prince  observing  this  disagreeable  position,  and  without  answering  any  end  whatever, 
ordered  us  down  to  a  covered  way,  which  was  a  little  towards  our  right,  and  where  we  were  less 
annoyed  with  the  Duke's  cannon  ;  he  himself,  with  his  aides-de-camp,  rode  along  the  line  animating 
the  soldieris. 

**The  Guards  had  scarce  been  a  minute  or  two  in  this  position,  when  the  small  arms  began  from 
the  Duke's  army,  and  kept  up  a  constant  fire ;  that  instont,  as  it  were,  one  of  the  aides-de-camp 
returned  and  desired  us  to  join  the  Prince. 

**  We  met  him  in  endeavouring  to  rally  the  soldiers,  who,  annoyed  with  the  enemy's  fire,  were 
beginning  to  quit  the  field." 

The  right  had  made  a  furious  attack  and  cut  through  two  regiments,  capturing  two 
cannon,  but  Wolfe's  regiment  coming  up,  that  wing  was  forced  to  retire.  The  left  attack 
had  been  less  vigorous,  and  made  no  impression  on  the  royalists,  while  "  the  centre,  which  had 
been  much  galled  by  the  enemy's  artillery,  almost  instantly  quitted  the  field." 

**  The  scene  of  confusion  was  now  ffreat,  nor  can  the  imagination  figure  it.  The  men  in  geaeral 
were  betaking  themselves  precipitately  to  flight.  Horror  and  dismay  were  painted  in  every 
countenance. 

*'  It  now  became  time  to  provide  for  the  Prince's  safety  ;  his  person  had  been  abundantly 
exposed.  He  was  got  off  the  tield,  and  very  narrowly  escaped  falling  in  with  a  brnly  of  horse  which 
had  been  detached  from  the  Duke's  left,  were  advancing  with  an  incredible  rapidity,  picking  up  the 
stragglers,  and,  as  they  gave  no  quarter,  were  levelling  them  with  the  ground. 

**  We  got  upon  a  rising  ground,  where  we  turned  round  and  made  a  general  halt.  The  scene  was 
indeed  tremendous.  Never  was  so  total  *a  rout — a  more  thorough  discomfiture  of  an  army.  The 
adjacent  country  was  in  a  manner  covered  with  its  ruins.  The  whole  was  over  in  about  twenty-five 
minutes. 

"  Of  towards  six  thousand  men  which  the  Prince's  army  consisted  of,  about  one  thousand  men 
were  asleep  in  Culloden  parks,  who  knew  nothing  of  the  action  till  awakened  by  the  noise  of  the 
cannon.  These  in  general  endeavoured  to  save  themselves  by  taking  the  road  to  Inverness  ;  and  most 
of  them  fell  a  sacntice  to  the  victors,  for  this  road  was  in  general  strewed  with  dead  bodies.  The 
Prince  at  this  moment  had  his  cheeks  bedewed  with  tears  ;  what  must  his  feeling  heart  have 
suffered  !" 

Here  Strangers  narrative  ends,  but  Cooper,  the  engraver,  gives  one  incident  in  the  ad- 
ventures of  his  old  apprentice  which  is  too  good  to  be  overlooked.  He  tells  us  that  Strange, 
"  when  hotly  pressed,  dashed  into  a  room  where  the  lady  whose  zeal  had  enlisted  him  in  the 
fatal  cause  sate  singing  at  her  needlework,  and,  failing  other  means  of  concealment,  was 
indebted  for  safety  to  her  prompt  intervention.  As  she  quickly  raised  her  hooped  petticoat, 
the  afiianced  lover  disappeared  beneath  its  ample  contour,  where,  thanks  to  her  cool  demeanor 
and  unfaltering  notes,  he  lay  undetected  while  the  rude  and  baffled  soldiery  vainly  ransacked 
the  house." 

In  June  of  the  following  year— U47 —an  Act  of  Grace  wasi  passed,  ^hich  aljowed  Strange 
to  resume  his  peaceful  avocations.  In  that  year  he  married  Isabella  Lumisden,  the  lady  of  the 
hooped  petticoat — a  union  which  initiated  a  long  course  of  domestic  happiness. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  305 

Mrs  Strange  was  an  admirable  woman,  a  devoted  wife,  and  an  affectionate  and  judicious 
mother.  Her  vigorous  and  practical  letters  form  perhaps  the  most  interesting  chapters  in  her 
husband's  biography,  fier  Jacobite  instincts  Lusted  through  life.  Her  brother  was  for  many 
years  private  secretary  to  the  Prince.  Long  after  that  unfortunate  person  liad  by  his  mis- 
guided life  ceased  to  find  favour  in  Mrs  Strange's  eyes,  some  one  in  her  presence  referred 
to  him  as  the  Pretender,  when  the  lady,  indignant  at  the  title,  exclaimed  in  the  forcible 
language  of  the  day,  "  Pretender  !  and  be  damned  to  you  !" 

To  her  brother,  residing  at  Rome  with  the  Prince,  she  writes  with  a  mother's  pride  :— 

**  My  little  Jamie  was  put  into  breeches  last  Sunday.  He  looks  most  charming  ;  when  he  went 
to  the  park,  everybody  called  him  the  Younff  Chevalier.  My  little  jewel,  Andrew,*  seems  to  have 
the  finest  ear  for  his  age  I  ever  knew.  Mary  Bruce  seems  to  like  writing  best  of  any.  She'll  dance 
with  a  very  graceful  air.  Although  she  is  far  from  possessing  beauty,  yet  there  is  something  agreeable 
about  her,  and  she  is  verv  like  her  dear  Papa.  Jamie  is  like  me,  not  marked  with  the  small-pox  as 
his  sister  is.  He  has  a  nne  temper  ;  but  for  Andrew,  he  truly  is  the  most  compleat  charmer  I  ever 
saw,  both  in  body  and  mind.  His  complexion  is  as  brown  as  mine,  and  his  eye  as  dark.  God  make 
them  all  good,  for  you  see  I  make  thein  all  bonny.'* 

At  this  time  Strange  was  working  in  Lond<m  and  acquiring  fame.  In  1758,  Allan 
Ramsay,' son  of  the  |H>et,  who  had  painted  portraits  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  tutor,  the 
Earl  of  Bute,  asked  Strange  to  engrave  them.  He  refused,  and  this  refusal  was  attributed  by 
unfriends  to  Jacobite  leanings,  and  was  afterwards  used  against  hiin.  The  fact  was  that  the 
price  offered  would  not  recompense  him  for  the  postponement  of  a  visit  which  he  had  pro- 
jected to  the  Italian  galleries. 

He  went  to  Rouen  and  afterwards  to  Paris,  where  he  enjoyed  the  friendship  of  Principal 
Gord«)n,  of  the  Scots  College— a  friendship  which  perhaps  accounts  for  Gordon's  visit  to 
Orkney  and  the  interest  he  took  in  the  Laverock  of  Kirkwall.  Fr(»m  Paris  he  went  to  Italy, 
where  he  studied  the  works  of  the  great  Italian  masters.  Some  of  these  he  reproduced  in  such 
admirable  style  as  to  secure  his  election  as  Member  of  the  Academies  of  Rome,  Florence, 
Parma,  Bologna,  and  Paris.  While  working  assiduously  with  graver  and  point,  he  at  the  same 
time  collected  such  works  of  art  as  he  thought  would  realise  a  profit  in  London.  These  he 
sent  home,  and  Mrs  Strange,  in  addition  to  her  family  duties,  undertook  their  exhibition  and 
sale. 

In  1765,  he  returned  to  London  to  find  that,  though  his  merits  were  recognised  and 
acknowledged  by  all  the  best  schools  of  art  on  the  continent,  he  was  not  good  enough  for  the 
English  Royal  Academy.  In  spite,  however,  of  the  detraction  of  jealous  arti.sts,  his  genius 
brought  him  fame  and  his  industry  wealth,  till  at  length  the  London  Academicians,  recognising 
the  fact  that  his  admission  would  be  an  honour  to  themselves,  opened  their  unwilling  door  to 
him. 

In  1786,  forty  years  after  CuUoden,  he  executed  the  engraving  of  West's  picture,  "  The 
Apotheosis  of  the  Princes  Octavius  and  Alfred,"  and  in  January  of  the  following  year  he 
presented  a  proof  to  the  King.  His  Mtgesty  was  so  delighted  with  it  that  he  knighted  the 
artist  on  the  spot.  And  now  Sir  Robert  had  to  look  about  for  pedigree.  That  there  had  been 
Strangs  in  the  east  of  Fife  for  many  generations  the  readera  of  Drummond's  Polemo  Medinia 
knew,  but "  plooky-faced  Watty  Strang,"  one  of  the  heroes  of  the  midden  fight,  was  discarded 
as  an  ancestor,  and  Sir  Robert  fixed  himself  on  to  Strang  of  Balcaskie. 

From  this  time  Strange's  life  was  uneventful.  He  went  on  accumulating  works  and 
wealth,  happy  in  his  (lon^iestic  life  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  social  intercourse,  till  his  death  ia 
July  1792, 

*  Thomas  Andrew,  afterwards  Sir  Thomas. 

2B 


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306    .  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

About  twenty-five  years  after  his  death,  when  engravings  to  the  value  of  j£l 8,000  were  in 
stock,  for  the  sake  of  the  artist's  reputation,  which  might  suffer  by  the  wearing  of  the  copper, 
and  to  prevent  a  glut  of  impressions,  it  was  resolved  to  destroy  the  plates.  Accordingly,  the 
life  work  of  Sir  Robert  Strange,  now  represented  by  three  hundred  weight  of  copper  plates, 
was  cut  into  shreds  and  melted  down. 

Sir  Robert's  eldest  son,  James,  went  out  to  Madras  in  the  service  of  the  Honourable  East 
India  Company.  He  married  Miss  Margaret  Durham  of  Largo,  who  died  in  India.  Their 
only  child,  a  beautiful  girl,  came  home  to  her  grandparents  in  London.  She  afterwards 
married  the  Hon.  James  Wolfe  Murray,  Lord  Gringletie,  one  of  the  judges  of  the  Court  of 
Session. 

James  Strange  himself  returned  in  1795,  and  settled  as  a  banker  in  London.  In  1797,  he 
was  returned  to  Parliament  for  £a$^^.Grimstead.  In  1798,  he  married  the  Hon.  Anne  Dundas, 
second  daughter  of  Henry,  Lord  Melville,  and  widow  of  Henry  Drummond,  Esq.  of  Albury, 
-Sussex.     He  died  in  1840,  and  was  survived  by  his  widow  and  two  daughters. 

Thomas  Andrew,  always  called  in  the  family  by  his  second  name,  distinguished  himself  at 
the  bar,  and  was  appointed  Chief  Justice  at  Halifax.  In  1801,  he  was  sent  as  Chief  Justice  to 
Madras,  receiving  knighthood  before  he  sailed.  Sir  Thomas  returned  home  in  1816,  and  died, 
1841.  His  first  wife  was  a  daughter  of  Sir  Robert  Anstruther  of  Balcaskie,  and,  in  recording 
the  fact,  his  biographer  adds — ("  once  the  Fifeshire  patrimony  of  the  Strangs.")  * 

Robert  Montague  Strange  rose  in  the  H.E.I.C.S.  to  be  Major-General,  but  died,  1811, 
without  issue. 

Isabella  Katherine  Stmnge  outlived  all  her  brothers,  and  died,  1849,  aged  ninety. 

The  garden  which  Andrew  Strang  bought  from  Robert  Morrison  belongs  now  to  the  heirs 
of  Alexander  Stewart,  merchant,  a  relative  of  the  Strangs.  The  tradition  in  the  family  is 
that  Sir  Robert  Strange  presented  it  to  Mr  Stewart's  grandmother  out  of  gratitude  for 
pecuniary  assistance  which  she  had  given  him  when  he  left  Kirkwall  a  poor  boy. 

The  house  south  from  Strang's,  as  far  as  can  be  traced,  belonged  to  one  Adam  Bruntfield,t 
from  whom  it  passed  to  Andrew  Mitchell  and  his  heirs.  In  1688,  it  belonged  to  John  Nisbet 
of  Swannay,  and  regarding  it  we  have  an  entry  in  Thomas  Brown's  Diary :  — "  April  15, 
Sabbath  night,  about  12  or  yrby,  George  Spence  of  Overscapa,  residenter  in  Kirkwall,  depd. 
this  lyfe  in  the  house  lately  pertaining  to  Jon.  Mitchell,  now  to  John  Nisbet,  Mercht.  in 
Birsay,  and  was  interred  in  S.  Magnus,  Tuesday  yrafter,  about  4  in  the  afternoon  ;  and  within 
an  hour  or  two  thereafter,  Marjorie  Halcro,  his  relict,  was  brought  to  bed  of  a  man  chyld,  and 
christened  about  six  that  night,  who  was  named  George." 

Gilbert  Nisbet,  who  died  in  Swannay,  1675,  had  two  sons,  James  and  John,  and  a 
daughter,  Mary.  James,  the  eldest,  graduated  at  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  1670,  and  was 
presented  to  Sandwick  and  Stromness  by  Bishop  Mackenzie,  1676.  He  married  Isabella 
Graham,  grand-daughter  of  Bishop  George,  and  their  son,  John,  was  ordained,  1715,  minister 
of  the  double  charge  which  had  been  held  by  his  father.  Gilbert  Nisbet's  second  son,  John, 
seems  to  have  arranged  with  his  elder  brother  as  to  Swannay  and  the  business,  for  he  had 
both,  conducting  the  latter  chiefly  from  Kirkwall.  He  married  Marie  Erbury,  and  when  his 
brother-in-law,  Mr  John  Erbury,  failed  in  business,  he  bought  his  house  in  Broad  Street  and 
went  to  live  there. 

The  Burgh  Records  show  the  Laird  of  Swannay  to  have  been  slow  in  his  payments  : — 
**  The  two  Birsay  merchants,  Burgesses  of  this  place,  David  Ritchie  and  John  Nisbett,  hes 

*  The  professional  integrity  of  Sir  Thomas  was  celebrated  in  the  epitaph,  *'  Here  lies  an  honest 
lawyer  that  is  Strange." 

t  See  S.  R.,  20th  Oct,  1673. 


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VICTORIA   STREET. 


307 


been  long  deficient  in  paying  either  of  their  proportions  of  stent,  ordains  to  give  and  delyver 
to  eich  of  them  ane  particular  not  of  their  sd.  stent.  Immediately  therafter  to  cause  the 
pairtie  now  upon  the  place  quarter  upon  them  untill  payment  be  made."  Nisbet  owed 
£12  14s, and  Ritchie  £8  4s.  "They  quatt  the  said  John  for  £4  3s  8d,  and  the  said  David 
for  £3." 

John  Nisbet  died  intestate,  1707.  His  eldest  son  had  gone  abroad  some  ten  years 
previously,  and  was  supposed  to  be  dead.  A  grandson,  James,  came  into  possession.  In  1708, 
James  Nisbet  laid  himself  open  to  the  censure  of  the  church.  But  he  was  the  kind  of 
delinquent  to  whom  Sessions  were  prone  to  be  merciful,  for,  when  summoned,  he  at  once 
"  compeired,"  expressed  himself  deeply  penitent,  and  paid  a  guinea  and  a  half  for  himself  and 
his  fellow-sinner. 

James,  along  with  some  of  the  other  young  men  about  town,  had  been  induced  to  take 
lessons  in  fencing  from  Louis  Dupaique,  a  Frenchman.  The  master  proved  to  be  a  mere 
pretender,  and  Nisbet,  along  with  Andrew  Young,  had  the  courage  to  appear  in  court  rather 
than  pay  the  impostor's  fee. 

Gilbert  Nisbet's  daughter,  Mary,  married,  1686,  Mr  William  Davidson,  minister  of  Birsay 
and  Harray.  She  was  the  reverend  gentleman's  third  wife,  and  at  the  time  of  this  marriage 
the  poor  man  had  been  blind  for  thirteen  years. 


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Tablet  in  Victoria  Street. 

The  double  tenement  sonth  from  Nisbet  belonged  of  old  to  St.  Christopher's  stouk.*  A 
tablet  with  the  arms  of  Bishop  Reid,  and  of  probably  John  Maxwell,  in  the  north  part  of  this 
house,  may  have  been  intended  to  mark  it  off  as  church  property.  This  tablet  has  been 
elaborately  executed,  and  it  was  provided  with  an  eave  ledging  to  protect  the  carving.  John 
Maxwell  was  by  Bishop  Reid  appointed  vicar  of  Evie  and  chaplain  of  St.  Lawrence,  with  the 
enjoyment  of  that  saint's  "  stouk,"  and  this  may  have  been  his  town  residence.  But  before 
1677,  this  house  had  been  reduced  to  ruin,  and  the  site,  with  what  was  on  it,  belonged  to 

•  W.  D.  Baikle*8  papers. 


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308  KIRKWALL   IN    THfi  ORKNEYS. 

Patrick  Craigie  of  Waisdail.  The  part  with  the  tablet  had  been  slate-roofed,  the  other  portion 
thatched. 

The  next  house  southward  was  bought,  August  1640,  from  Hew  Halcro  of  Aikers,  by 
Andrew  Strang  and  his  wife,  Agnes  Gunu.  It  afterwards  belonged  to  their  son,  Andrew, 
N.P.  Young  Strang  was  born  in  South  Ronaldshay,  where,  1st  November  1633,  he  was 
appointed  *'  Reader,  Session  Clerk,  and  Schoolmaster  (if  he  can  get  as  many  as  20  bairnes 
to  teach)."  He  came  to  Kirkwall,  where  he  appears  as  messenger,  notary  public,  and  money 
lender,  and  seems  to  have  acquired  a  competency,  if  not  wealth.  This  is  the  Andrew  from 
whom  the  biographer  of  Sir  Robert  Strange  thought  his  hero  had  inherited  his  silver  spoons. 

Williaui  Strang,  who,  before  1677,  succeeded  his  father  in  this  house,  was  a  cordiner. 

Southward  was  the  "  new"  house  built  by  Andrew  Corner,  notary  public  and  Town  Clerk, 
whose  widow,  Jean  Baikie,  had  it  in  life-rent,  with  much  other  property  in  the  town.  In  the 
public  records  much  of  Andrew  Corner's  work  is  to  be  found,  and  his  handwriting  and 
signature  are  well-known.  The  name  is  n(»t  a  common  one,  though  it  is  very  old.  In  1289, 
William  de  la  Corner  became  Bishop  of  Salisbury,  or  rather  of  Sarum,  but  Andrew  had  not 
known  the  fact,  else  we  should  probably  have  had  his  seal,  with  the  Corner  arms,  accom- 
panying his  signature  in  his  notarial  instruments. 

Next  came  the  house  of  Bailie  Chalmers,  afterwards  belonging  to  Mr  Thomas  Baikie,  and 
sold  by  him,  1732,  to  James  Stewart,  merchant.  James  Stewart  was  one  of  Kirkwall's 
remarkable  men.  He  has  been  dead  for  a  hundred  years,  yet  his  name,  or  more  especially 
his  nickname,  "  Peasie,"  is  still  a  household  word  in  the  town.  It  is  said  that  in  his  retail 
business  he  would  split  a  pea  to  arrive  at  the  exact  weight ;  and,  again,  that  he  had  V>een 
known  to  burn  a  penny  candle  in  search  of  a  pea  that  had  dropped  on  the  floor. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  arrive  at  facts  illustrating  the  character  and  habits  of  this  man,  but, 
according  to  the  traditions  of  the  elders,  while  he  seems  to  have  been  habitually  avaricious,  he 
was,  when  the  whim  seized  him,  occasionally  generous  to  a  degree  which  surprised  the 
recipient.  It  is  stated  that  on  one  occasion,  when  he  had  got  home  a  quantity  of  meal  for 
domestic  use,  he  would  not,  on  account  of  the  expense,  employ  an  outsider  to  pack  it  in  his 
girnell,  but  got  a  nephew  of  Mrs  Stewart's  to  come  and  do  the  work.  The  poor  man's  sight 
was  then  failing  him,  but  he  discovered  by  the  voice  of  the  youth,  when  he  answered  a 
question,  that  he  was  taking  an  occasional  taste  of  the  precious  victual.  The  old  gentleman 
could  not  think  of  sustaining  such  a  loss,  so  he  stopped  the  work  and  paid  young  Traill 
off  with  a  guinea. 

Mr  Stewart's  ruling  passion,  avarice,  strengthened  with  his  years,  and  its  last  exhibition 
took  an  odd  form.  He  found  that  he  required  new  clothes,  and  it  may  be  inferred  that  when 
he  made  the  discovery  his  ancient  garments  were  pretty  far  through.  Accordingly,  for  the 
sake  of  economy,  he  gave  a  wholesale  order  and  bought  a  web  of  cloth  ;  but,  when  it  came 
home,  he  grudged  the  expense  of  making  it  up,  so,  with  oriental  taste,  he  draped  and  festooned 
his  web  all  over  his  bony  framework,  and  thus  attired,  attended,  if  not  kirk  and  market,  at 
least  shop  and  customers.  In  this  picturesque  garb  he  one  evening  went  to  call  on  his 
relative  and  neighbour,  Capt.  Richan.  The  door  was  opened  by  Mrs  Richan,  who,  whether 
or  not  she  knew  Mr  Stewart  in  such  a  guise,  slammed  the  door  in  his  face,  and  in  doing  so, 
as  the  story  goes,  slammed  herself  out  of  the  old  man's  will.  This  tradition  is  so  general  and 
ao  recent  that  there  may  be  some  truth  in  it. 

Jean  Stewart,  Capt.  Richan's  mother,  was  so  nearly  related  to  the  close-fisted  merchant 
that  the  Captain  thought  he  could,  by  a  process  of  law,  set  aside  James  Stewart's  will,  and 
actaally  instituted  proceedings  to  that  effect. 

Had  Mr  Stewart  desired  to  leave  his  wealth  to  family  friends  he  had  a  wide  choice.    He 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  309 

married  Margaret,  fourth  daughter  of  Patrick  Traill  and  great-grand-daughter  of  Thomas,  the 
first  laird  of  Holland,  so  that  among  his  wife's  many  relatives  he  might  easily  have  found  an 
heir.  Indeed,  he  did  find  one,  the  above-mentioned  hero  of  the  girnell,  a  very  promising 
young  man,  to  whom  the  old  merchant  was  much  attached.  But  the  youth  died  before 
completing  his  divinity  curriculum,  and  the  man  who,  during  his  whole  life,  had  never  given  a 
shilling  to  the  poor,  now  devoted  his  whole  hoardings  to  posthumous  charities. 

Mr  Young  of  Castleyards,  in  a  private  letter,  calls  Stewart  "  a  great  rogue,"  and  we  know 
that  the  merchant  had  tried  to  secure  bits  of  the  town  lands  without  money  and  without  price. 

He  enclosed  some  of  "the  town  land  eastward  of  the  hill  dyke  of  Cannigal,"  and  built  a 
house  on  it.  He  also  "flitt  out  his  dykes  from  the  lands  of  Yairsay  to  the  sea  there  of 
Qnantemess,  whereon  he  has  enclosed  a  Loadberrie  at  which  many  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Kirkwall,  time  out  of  mind,  Boated  their  Peats  which  they  caused  cast  in  Quanterness'^;  and 
he  had  taken  possession  of  ''a  part  of  the  kelp  shore  of  Quantemess,  the  property  of  the 
Burgh."  A  popular  man  has  been  known  to  succeed  in  quietly  appropriating  portions  of  the 
town  land,  but  Stewart  was  not  popular,  and  was  therefore  brought  to  book. 

In  April  1791,  he  executed  a  trust  disposition  and  settlement  in  favour  of  David  Spence 
of  Scapa,  Esq. ;  the  Reverend  Francis  Liddell,  minister  of  the  gospel  at  Orphir  ;  James  Baikie 
of  Tankerness,  Esq.  ;  William  Traill  of  Frotoft,  Esq.  ;  Patrick  Fotheringham,  Esq.,  Comp- 
troller of  the  Cu.stoms  at  Kirkwall ;  and  James  Allan  Maconochie,  Esq.,  advocate.  Sheriff 
Deputy  of  the  County  of  Orkney  ;  and  Charles  Shirreff,  Esq.,  Sheriff  Substitute  of  the  said 
county.  The  last  two  were  to  be  replaced  on  the  trust  by  their  successors  in  office,  and  the 
others  by  persons  *'  assumed  as  trustees  in  virtue  of  the  powers  hereinafter  granted  to  that  effect." 

This  wA^  confirmed  in  1829,  when  "Ouf  Sovereign  Lord,  With  the  special  advice  and  con- 
sent of  the  Right  Honourable  Sir  Samuel  Shepherd,  Knight,  Lord  Chief -fearon  of  His  Majesty's 
Court  of  Exchequer  in  that  part  of  the  United  Kingdom  called  Scotland  ;  James  Clerk 
Rattray,  Esq.  ;  Sir  Patrick  Murray,  Baronet ;  and  David  Hume,  Esq.,  remanent  Barons  of  His 
Majesty's  said  Court  of  Exchequer,  ordains  a  Gift  and  Charter  to  be  made  and  passed  under 
the  Seal  appointed  by  the  Treaty  of  Union  to  be  kept  and  used  in  Scotland  in  place  of  the 
Great  Seal  thereof  formerly  used  there,  giving,  granting,  and  disponing,  and  for  His  Majesty 
and  his  Royal  successors  perpetually  confirming,  likeas  His  Majesty,  with  advice  and  consent 
foresaid,  by  these  presents  gives,  grants,  and  dispones,  and  for  himself  and  his  Royal  successors 
perpetually  confirms  to  and  in  favour  of  his  Majesty's  lovites,"  the  above-named  Trustees. 

Besides  "  other  moveable  means  and  effects,  as  well  not  named  as  named,"  the  Trustees 
found  that  Mr  Stewart  had  advanced  well  over  £1000  stg.  to  persons  in  Kirkwall,  all  well 
secured. 

The  landed  property  consisted  of : — "  First,  All  and  whole  the  roum  and  lands  of 
Yairsay,  which  lands  were  acquired  by  the  said  James  Stewart  from  James  Traill,  younger  of 
Hobbister."    Yairsay  lay  just  out  of  Kirkwall,  on  the  north  side  of  Hatston. 

'^Secondly.  All  and  haill  the  roum  and  lands  of  Fea,  Cannigall,  and  Clova."  These 
lands  are  named  in  the  charter  of  James  III.  as  on  the  west  of  the  hill  called  Kirkwall  hilL 
These  also  were  acquired  from  James  Traill,  younger  of  Hobbister. 

**  Thirdly,  All  and  whole  the  land  of  Saverock  and  Quoys,  in  Quanterness,  within  and 
without  the  dykes  thereof  to  the  march-stone ;  and  all  and  haill  the  lands  of  Quoyangrie, 
lying  on  the  east  side  of  the  burgh  of  Kirkwall — ^all  lying  vTithin  the  said  parish  of  St.  Ola, 
mainland,  and  county  of  Orkney ;  and  which  lands  were  acquired  by  the  said  James  Stewart 
from  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness. 

"  Fourthly,  All  and  whole  the  just  and  equal  third  part  of  the  two  merk  land  and  half  • 
merk  udal  land,  under  the  house  of  Netherbigging,  lying  in  Settascarth. 


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810  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

"  Fifthly.  All  and  whole  that  great  tenement  of  land,  presently  under  sclate  roof,  lying 
ftt  the  shore  of  Kirkwall,  sometime  possessed  by  James  Kendall."  This  is  the  property 
between  the  house  called  "  Tounigar  "  and  the  wall  of  Traill  of  Woodwick's  garden. 

"As  also  all  and  haill  these  three  little  houses  or  tenements  of  land  under  thatch  roof  at 
the  east  end  of  the  shore  of  Kirkwall."  This  was  what  lay  west  of  the  narrow  passage  running 
from  the  shore  up  through  Dunkirk. 

"  Sixthly. ^^  The  lands  and  houses  lying  in  the  Laverock  of  Kirkwall,  being  the  two  sides 
^f  a  close.  This  is  Mr  Stewart's  own  dwelling-house,  on  a  portion  of  the  site  of  which  stands 
the  house  erected  by  the  late  Mr  Peter  Cursiter. 

"  Seventhly."  A  bond  of  600  merks,  yielding  £22  Scots  per  annum,  upon  the  house  of  the 
late  Charles  Stewart,  Stewart  Clerk,  which  formerly  belonged  to  Mr  Andrew  Ker,  minister  of 
the  gospel. 

'^ Big/ithly."  A  bond  of  £30  sterling,  yielding  "an  yearly  annual  rent  of  £1  10s  Od 
sterling,  or  such  an  annual  rent,  less  or  more,  as  by  law  for  the  time  shall  effeir,  and  correspond 
to  the  principal  siim  of  £30  sterling."  This  was  a  bond  over  "  the  two  houses,  the  one  under 
sclate  and  the  other  under  thatch  roofs,  sometime  belonging  to  and  possessed  by  James 
Nicolson."    Of  this  bond  we  shall  hear  again. 

In  dealing  with  the  above  properties,  all  of  which  have  been  capitalised,  the  Trustees 

**  Bind  and  oblige  themselves  to  lay  out  and  expend  annually  the  free  produce  of  the  said  funds 
and  estates  under  their  charge,  in  just  and  suitable  proportions,  for  the  pious  and  charitable  uses  and 
purposes  following,  viz : — Primo.  The  said  Trustees  shall  annually  expend  and  apply  a  sum  not 
exceeding  one-eighth  part  of  the  free  annual  produce  of  the  said  estate  in  promoting  religious  know- 
ledge among  the  poor,  and  the  children  of  the  poor,  in  conformity  with  the  doctrines  of  the  Established 
"Presbyterian  Church  of  Scotland,  and  in  such  a  way  as  a  majority  of  the  said  Trustees  shall  consider 
most  expedient  and  necessary. 

"  Secondly.  That  the  said  Trustees  shall  also  expend  and  apply  a  sura  not  exceeding  three- 
sixteenth  parts  of  the  free  annual  produce  of  the  trust-estate  in  the  education  and  in  the  support  of 
poor  orphan  children,  the  orphans  so  to  be  educated  being  limited  to  the  number  that  the  above  pro- 
portion of  the  funds  shall  suffice  to  maintain  and  educate  properly. 

'*  Thirdly.  The  said  Trustees  shall  expend  and  apply  a  sum  not  exceeding  one-sixteenth  part  of 
the  free  produce  of  the  said  funds  and  estate  annually  in  the  purchase  of  Medicines  and  procuring 
medical  advice,  to  be  dispensed  to  such  individuals  in  indigent  and  necessitous  circumstances  as  are 
truly  unable,  from  their  poverty,  to  pay  for  them  in  times  of  sickness. 

"  Fourthly.  The  said  Trustees  shall  annually  expend  a  sum  not  exceeding  one-eighth  part  of  the 
free  produce  of  the  said  estate  in  the  purchase  of  meal,  which  they  shall  distribute,  either  gratuitously 
or  at  a  reduced  price,  among  such  poor  people  as  are  truly  in  necessitous  and  indigent  circumstances, 
and  who  from  inability  to  work  are  destitutes  of  the  means  of  gaining  a  livelihood  ;  and 

'*  Lastly.  The  said  Trustees  shall  apply  the  residue,  or  such  part  as  shall  remain  unappropriated 
to  the  purposes  aforesaid,  of  the  said  free  annual  produce  of  the  said  trust-estate  to  such  pious  uses 
and  objects  of  charity  as  circumstances  may  occasionally  render  urgent  and  expedient,  such  as  the 
rescue  of  human  life  from  shipwreck  ;  the  relief  of  shipwrecked  sailors  ;  for  affording  such  immediate 
assistance  to  the  persons  rescued  as  their  necessities  may  require  ;  for  granting  relief  to  the  destitute 
families  of  any  who  may  unfortunately  perish  in  their  attempts  to  save  the  fives  of  others  ;  for  the 
relief  of  widows  and  children  left  helpless  by  the  loss  of  husbands  and  fathers  at  sea  or  otherwise ; 
for  the  relief  of  aged  and  helpless  persons  and  indigent  old  men  and  women  ;  and  in  occasionally 
affording  religious  instru^ition  to  mariners,  fishermen,  and  others  of  such  the  like  classes  as  may  resort 
to  Orkney  in  the  way  of  their  occupations  ;  and  in  any  other  the  like  charitable  purposes. 

**  That  the  said  Trustees,  in  the  exercise  of  the  foresaid  charities,  shall  not  only  be  directed  by  a 
wise  and  judicious  discretion,  but  shall  previously  satisfy  themselves,  by  the  most  strictexamination 
and  enquiiy,  of  the  good  character  and  necessitous  circumstances  of  eacn  applicant,  who  shall  always 
be  required  to  produce  satisfactory  evidence  to  the  Trustees  of  his  or  her  indigent  circumstances  and 
good  character  before  such  person  shall  be  admitted  to  the  benefit  of  the  charity." 

Lest  the  factorship  of  lands  and  houses  should  be  expensive  and  troublesome,  provision  is 
made  for  their  sale  : — 

*'  And  whereas  it  will  tend  to^the  advantage  and  prosperity  of  the  foresaid  charity  and  the  more 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  311 

regular  administration  of  its  afB^ira,  that  the  annual  amount  or  income  of  the  said  trust-estate  be  fixed 
and  ascertained  as  nearly  as  may  be  and  the  funds  thereof  secured  ;  therefore  the  Trustees  are  hereby 
enjoined  with  all  convenient  speed,  and  in  terms  of  the  powers  conferred*  bv  these  {presents  aiid  by  the 
said  trust- disposition  and  settkment,  to  sell  and  convert  into  money  the  whole  subjects,  heritable  and- 
moveable,  hereinbefore  disponed,  which  belonged  to  the  said  deceased  James  Stewart,  the  sales  that, 
may  be  necessary  beinff  always  made  by  and  with  the  advice  and  concurrence  of  a  majority  of  the  said 
Trustees,  of  which  majority  the  said  Sheriff-Substitute  or  depute  shall  always  be  one." 

For  accuracy,  it  is  provided  that  the  factor  who  may  be  api)ointed  by  the  trustees  shall  at 
no  time  have  more  than  £50  sterling  of  the  trust-monies  in  his  hands. 

*'  And,  lastly,  the  said  Trustees  are  hereby  directed  and  enjoined  to  transmit  and  exhibit  to  the' 
Barons  of  Our  said  CJourt  of  Exchequer,  at  the  expiry  of  seven  years  from  the  date  of  these  presents,- 
and  regularly  at  the  expiry  of  every  seven  ^ears  thereafter,  a  distinct  and  specific  report  of  their 
intromissions  with  and  management  of  the  said  trust-estate." 

One  of  the  most  valuable  clauses  in  the  will  runs  : — 

"  And  whereas  the  change  of  times  and  circumstances  may  render  expedient  an  alteration  or 
extension  of  the  purposes  aforesaid  to  which  the  annual  produce  of  the  said  trust-estate  is  to  be 
applied,  We  therefore  will  and  grant  that  it  shall  be  in  the  power  of  the  said  Trustees,  or  those  to  be 
hereafter  assumed  and  acting  for  the  time,  at  the  expiry  of  seven  years  from  the  date  of  these  presents, 
or  at  any  time  thereafter,  to  apply  to  the  Barons  of  Our  said  Court  of  Exchequer  for  such  alteration  or 
extension  of  the  charitable  uses  before  specified  as  experience  may  prove  to  be  judicious  or  the  change 
of  times  and  circumstances  may  render  expedient." 

Neither  in  1791,  when  the  will  was  made,  nor  in  1829,  when  the  charter  was  procured, 
was  such  a  thing  as  free  edecation  Avithin  the  range  of  human  foresight.  Now  that  Govern- 
ment has  undertaken  the  educational  work  to  which  a  considerable  portion  of  James  Stewart's 
money  has  hitherto  been  applied,  why  should  any  i)art  of  this  fund,  which  was  devoted  in  its 
entirety  towards  alleviating  the  condition  of  the  poor,  be  spent  on  bursaries,  that  a  few  who 
are  not  poor  may  enjoy  the  luxury  of  higher  education  ? 

Standing  one-half  on  what  is  now  Victoria  Lane,  and  the  other  half  on  the  yard  to  the 
south  of  the  lane,  was  a  large  double  tenement  known  as  Emraerson's  Land.  This  was  the 
house  of  Harie  Erburie,  merchant,  before  he  built  his  new  house  in  Broad  Street  in  1697. 

In  the  Valuation  Roll  of  1677,  it  is  entered  as  belonging  to  William  Aimersone's  bairns. 
William  Emmerson  was  an  Englishman,  and  had  held  the  rank  of  sergeant  in  CromwelFs 
garrison.  When  the  troops  were  withdrawn  from  the  Fort,  he  settled  in  Kirkwall  as  a 
shoemaker,  was  elected  Deacon  of  that  Corporation,  and  thus  became  ex  officio  a  member  of 
the  Town  Council.  He  married  Marjorie  Bernardson,  and  the  "  bairns "  were  George  and 
Thomas.    In  1690,  George  gave  sasine  of  Emmerson's  Land  to  his  younger  brother. 

In  1704,  the  northern  portion  belonged  to  Bailie  Robert  Donaldson,  and  the  southern 


^/^-^ 


portion  to  the  Rev.  Andrew  Ker,  minister  of  the  Second  Charge  in  St.  Magnus.  The  close 
between  was  the  common  entry,  and  the  opposite  neighbours  were  usually  on  very  friendly 
terms.  But  both  were  somewhat  indiscreet.  The  clergyman  spoke  too  freely  about  ecclesi- 
astical matters  to  the  layman,  and  the  latter  revealed  secrets. 

In  September  1709,  at  a  meeting  of  Presbytery,  it  was  complained  that  Robert  Donaldson 
had  boasted  "  he  knew  every  thing  in  the  Presbytery's  letters  to  the  south,"  and  this  boast  got 
the  minister  into  trouble  with  his  brethren. 


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312  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

But  Mr  Ker,  who  had  previously  been  minister  of  Walls  and  Flotta,  had  quite  a  talent 
for  getting  into  hot  water.  His  appointment  to  the  Second  Charge  ,in  St.  Magnus  gave 
umbrage  to  the  Magistrates  and  Council,  because  the  Pi'esbytery  had  proceeded  to  ordination 
without  consulting  them ;  and  the  General  Assembly  in  this  instance  supported  the  civic 
rulers  and  censured  the  Presbytery.  Mr  Ker  had  thus  a  bad  start  in  Kirkwall,  and  his 
unpopularity  increased  as  he  became  better  known.  He  had  no  regard  for  public  opinion, 
and  he  had  no  conciliatory  element  in  his  mental  and  moral  composition.  In  1708,  Mr  Ker 
had  become  so  obnoxious  to  a  large  section  of  the  townspeople,  that  the  Council  desired 
his  removal  to  Shapinsay  or  Stronsay,  and  that  the  minister  of  either  of  these  islands  should 
be  put  in  his  place.  This  may  have  been  complimentary  to  Messrs  Nisbet  and  Mein,  the 
ministers  referred  to,  but  the  propasal  was  not  carried  into  effect. 

By  the  fathers  and  brethren,  poor  Mr  Ker  was  equally  disliked.  Whether  from  feelings 
of  real  friendship,  from  policy,  or  from  sheer  obstinancy,  he  kept  on  terms  of  close  intimacy 
with  Mr  Lyon,  the  episcopal  intruder  in  the  "  Meeting-House,"  whom  the  presbyterian  clergy 
were  doing  their  very  utmost  to  "  silence,"  For  this  the  Kirkwall  Presbytery  overt ured  the 
Synod,  and  the  offending  brother  was  summoned  to  attend  at  Thurso,  17th  June  1709. 

"  The  Committee  for  considering  Mr  Ker's  affair  reported  that  they  had  met,  And  it  was 
their  opinion  that  he  should  give  answers  to  the  following  Queries  :  — 

"Query  Ist.  What  his  thoughts  were  of  the  sudden  change  of  the  Magistrates  and 
Council  of  Kirkll.,  their  hatred  towards  him  into  love  ?" 

Mr  Ker  replied  to  the  effect  that  the  Magistrates  saw  that  the  mistake  at  his  ordination 
"  was  not  his  fault,  that  he  saw  no  great  change  that  way,  for  he  neither  saw  nor  tasted  of 
their  love." 

"  Query  2nd.  Mr  Ker  being  interrogat  what  sense  he  had  of  the  evil  of  these  things  for 
which  the  prery.  of  Kirkwall  is  dissatisfyd  with  him,  particularly  his  intimat  correspondence 
with  the  nottour  enemys  of  religion  and  with  Mr  Lyon  in  particular?" 

"  He  answered  that  he  thought  his  inviting  of  Mr  Lyon  to  his  house  when  his  child  was 
baptized  was  neither  sinfull  nor  scandalous." 

"  Query  3rd.  What  Mr  Ker  thought  of  these  persons  and  their  courses  who  did  attend 
the  meeting-house  ?" 

"  As  to  these  persons  who  are  the  prinll.  countenancers  of  the  meeting-hou.«te,  he  thought 
them  to  be  enemys  to  Religion,  Enemys  to  the  prery.  and  to  their  own  souls,  and  that  he  had 
often  told  them  so  in  private." 

His  friendship  towards  Mr  Lyon  conciliated  the  episcopal  party  in  Kirkwall,  which,  if 
small,  was  influential,  Imt  what  was  better,  it  annoyed  his  brethren  of  the  presbytery,  a 
source  of  much  enjoyment  to  Mr  Ker. 

At  this  meeting  the  Synod  "sharply  rebuked"  him,  and  "he  promised  amendment 
through  grace  for  the  future." 

The  commotion  which  Mr  Ker  was  able  to  raise  at  presbytery  meetings  must  have  been 
very  amusing  to  impartial  observers.  On  one  occasion  Mr  Gibsone,  of  Evie  and  Kendall,  was 
so  provoked  that  he  called  Mr  Ker  a  "  beast,"  and  "  would  prove  him  a  lyar,"  but  he  subse- 
quently explained  that  he  spoke  out  of  love  and  Christian  zeal. 

But  Mr  Ker,  the  same  year  in  which  he  had  been  before  the  Syond,  found  himself  again 
before  a  church  court.  He  had  been  at  the  South  Isles,  and  came  home  from  Scapa  rather 
late  and  a  little  excited.  From  some  peculiarity  in  the  knocking,  it  was  considered  expedient 
by  the  maids  that  both  of  them  should  attend  the  door.  How  it  hap|iened  is  not  clearly 
shown,  but  Mr  Ker,  Marjory  Scott,  and  Margaret  Chalmers  all  fell  on  the  stair  together. 
The  minister  said  that  the  accident  happened  through  the  narrowness  of  the  stairca.se.    His 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  313 

brethren,  however,  refused  to  take  the  explanation  ;  they  called  it  a  fama  clamom^  and  sat 
upon  him,  but  nothing  more  came  out  of  it  than  another  nine  days'  talk  about  Mr  Ker. 

We  discover  incidentally  that  Mr  Ker  was  a  fairly  good  singer,  and  that  he  was  willing  to 
oblige  when  asked  : — "  The  Session,  considering  the  need  there  is  of  one  to  precent  untill  ane 
fitt  persone  be  fallen  upon,  thought  fitt  to  entreat  the  favour  of  Mr  Ker  to  take  that  trouble 
upon  him  for  some  little  tyme."  * 

"  This  dayt  Mr  Ker,  being  now  present,  acquainted  the  Session  that  it  was  a  great  trouble 
to  him  to  precent,  but  seeing  the  Session  desyred  it  as  a  favour,  he  should  officiate  that  way 
for  a  while,  till  the  Magistrates  could  meet  with  the  Session  and  agree  to  send  for  a  fitt 
person  who  may  do  that  work." 

During  the  early  part  of  Mr  Ker's  incumbency,  the  stipend  of  the  Second  Charge  was 
precarious  and  difficult  to  collect.  It  was  complained  by  the  Presbytery  in  1707  that  the 
Queen  herself  did  not  pay  her  share-  of  the  rates.  But  in  that  year  a  charter  under  the  Great 
Seal  was  procured  fixing  the  stipend  at  300  merks,  to  be  drawn  from  the  bishopric  revenues. 

After  eighteen  years  in  Kirkwall,  some  of  them  pretty  stormy,  Mr  Ker  got  a  call  to  the 
parish  of  Kathven,  in  the  Presbytery  of  Fordyce,  and  a  letter  was  sent  to  the  Session  asking  if 
they  offered  any  objection.  "Answered  that  they  would  be  loath  to  offer  any  objection 
against  Mr  Ker's  transplantation  from  this  place  to  the  said  parish  of  Rathven,  in  regard  they 
are  Informed  that  his  being  Transplanted  would  tend  to  his  further  Encouragement  in  the 
work  of  the  Lord,  and  therefore  leave  it  to  the  Presbytery  to  do  therein  as  they  shall  see 
most  for  God's  glory  and  the  good  of  the  Church."  The  Presbytery  took  the  same  view  of 
the  case  as  did  the  Session,  and  appointed  that  "  a  discreit  letter  "  should  be  written  to  the 
Presbytery  of  Fordyce,  the  discretion  no  doubt  to  lie  in  saying  as  little  as  possible  about 
Mr  Ker's  antecedents    This  was,  of  course,  "  for  God's  glory  and  the  good  of  the  Church." 

On  the  5th  of  December  1722,  Mr  Ker's  translation  took  effect,  and  on  the  17th  of  the 
same  month,  Mr  Baikie  reported  to  the  Session  "  that  before  he  left  the  place,  Mr  Ker  left 
with  him  the  Charter  of  Mortification  of  the  sum  of  t500  merks,  granted  by  Q.  Anne  to  the 
said  Mr  Ker  and  his  successors  in  office  in  the  ministry  of  this  town,  and  presented  the 
same  to  the  Session,  which  they  took  kindly,  and  left  it  to  be  preserved  in  the  hands  of  Mr 
Baikie." 

Although  the  stipend  was  a  good  one  for  those  days,  and  though  it  had  for  ten  or  twelve 
years  been  regularly  paid,  our  reverend  friend  left  Kirkwall  in  debt  to  the  Session,  promising 
to  refund  principal  with  interest  as  soon  as  possible.  This,  from  his  "  further  Encouragement" 
in  Rathven,  he  would  probably  accomplish  in  due  time. 

More  than  a  century  and  a-half  has  pa.ssed  since  Mr  Ker  left  Kirkwall,  and  it  is  very 
difficult  now  to  form  a  true  estimate  of  his  character.  He  came  a  stranger  to  a  town  in  a 
ferment  of  religious  strife,  when  to  belong  to  one  party  meant  war  to  the  knife  with  the 
other.  To  show  friendship  to  an  opponent  was  treason,  and  the  only  safety  lay  in  consistent 
bitter  partisanship.  This  position  Mr  Ker  did  not  at  once  grasp,  so  he  came  down  between 
two  stools.  Every  peccadillo  was  trumped  up  against  him  by  the  presbyterian  zealots  among 
whom  his  lot  was  cast,  the  minutes  of  whose  proceedings  form  his  only  history.  Yet  he 
wrought  for  eighteen  years  in  Kirkwall,  and  when  he  got  the  offer  of  a  higher  stipend  else- 
where, the  Session  could  not  tell  whether  it  tended  more  to  the  glory  of  God  that  he  should 
go  or  stay,  and  left  the  decision  to  the  Presbytery.  Mr  Ker  died  at  Rathven,  3rd  March  1751, 
"aged  about  71,  in  the  50th  year  of  his  ministry."    He  left  three  sons  and  a  daughter.  % 

In  1741,  James  Donaldson,  merchant,  Edinburgh,  son  of  the  Bailie,  sold  his  half  of 
Emmerson's  land,  which,  as  we  have  seen,  stood  on  what  is  now  Victoria  Lane.    In  those 
♦  S.  R.,  9th  April  1722.  t  S.  R.,  16th  April  1722.  %  Fasti. 


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314  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

days  an  Orcadian  merchant  in  Edinburgh  had  to  execute  odd  commissions  for  his  old 
friends : — 

**  Edinburgh,  3rd  Augt.  1736. 

**  Sir, — This  comes  by  James  Poison,  by  whom  I  have  Sent  your  Cloaths  Inclosed  in  a  Box 
Directed  to  my  Uncle.     The  amount  whereof,  aa  yonl  see  by  the  Inclosed  Act. ,  is  £6  48. 

**  The  Cloath  is  Exceeding  good  and  a  very  fashionable  Ckilour,  and  I  doubt  not  but  you'l  be 
pleased  both  with  it  and  the  price,  this  last  being  Stated  at  a  very  Moderate  profit ;  and  as  to  your 
Stockings,  I  may  say  the  same  of  them.  I  made  Choice  of  the  threed  Stockings,  because  they  are 
much  used  in  the  Summer  time,  and  of  the  Worsted  because  they  are  (generally  used  in  the  Winter. 
If  there  be  any  thing  else  wherein  I  Can  Serve  you,  asshure  yourself  I'll  doe  my  utmost.  Pray  make 
a  tender  of  my  best  respects  to  your  Lady  and  Mrs  Jacoba,  to  Mrs  Mary  and  Mrs  Sibila,  and  the 
Rest  of  my  well-wishers, — And  I  am,  Sir,  your  Affect,  humbl.  Servt.,  Ja.  Donaldson. 

"P.S. — Brymer,  the  Taylor,  would  not  give  your  cloaths  over  his  door  un till  I  payd  his  Acct. 
for  makins  them.  The  particulars  of  which  you'l  see  in  his  Acct.  Inclosed.  However,  I  have  made 
anoyr.  taixe  the  measure  of  them,  so  that  3'ou  may  be  at  no  Loss  for  a  better  Taylor  at  any  oyr. 
time. ' 

Addressed — "  Mr  Andrew  Young,  Surveyor  of  his  Majesty^s  Customs  in  KirklL,  Orkney." 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  Donaldson's  house  belonged  to  William  Traill  of 
Frotoft,  and  was  occupied  by  himself  and  8i)ouse,  Robina  Fotheringham. 

Mr  Ker  and  his  spouse,  Elizabeth  Ker,  dis]x)ned  their  house  to  Charles  Stewart,  Stewart- 
Clerk.  This  gentleman  had  for  a  time  lived  in  the  house  built  by  William  Orem,  next 
Bishop  Reid's  Tower,  liferented  to  Jean  Black,  Orem's  widow,  whom  Charles  Stewart  had 
married,  1704.  Now  that  he  comes  to  occu[)y  Mr  Ker's  manse,  he  brings  his  wife,  Marjorie 
Traill,  daughter  of  W^illiam  Traill  of  Westneas,  married  Soth  April  1716.  On  her  death, 
**  Clerk  Stewart "  married  Sibilla,  youngest  daughter  of  William  Mackenzie,  Commissary  of 
Orkney,  13th  February  1731.  Poor  man,  he  did  not  long  enjoy  the  companionship  of  the 
third  Mrs  Stewart,  for  in  three  weeks  from  the  marriage  he  left  her  a  widow,  liferented  in  the 
house  to  which  he  had  so  lately  brought  her  as  a  bride. 

The  site  of  Mr  Ker's  house,  now  marked  by  a  store-shed  and  a  tree,  belongs  to  the  heirs 
of  the  lat€  Rev.  Mr  Buchan,  the  highly- respected  minister  of  the  Secession  Church  of  Holm.* 

When  Mr  Ker  lived  in  the  house  above  referred  to,  he  had,  on  the  south  side,  where  the 
house  of  Mr  Peter  Shearer  now  stands,  one  of  his  elders,  a  Town  Councillor,  Hugh  Clouston, 
dyer.  The  proi)erty  belonged  to  Clouston's  son,  Henry,  and  is  thus  described  in  the  Valuation 
Roll  of  1714  -.—  "Henry  Clouston  hath  an  double  house  under  Sclaitt  roof  there,  very  old, 
possest  by  his  father,  himself,  and  Hugh  Scott.   The  walls,  timber,  and  roof  very  much  f ailyied." 

Before  1677  it  had  belonged  to  William  Gordon,  who  left  his  daughter,  Elsjieth,  the  north 
half  and  her  sister,  Margaret,  the  south.  John  Si)ence,  N.P.,  in  the  above  year,  as  heir  to 
Margaret,  had  her  share,  while  E]si)eth  still  held  her  own.  Possibly  the  property  was  so  far 
gone  then  that  Henry  Clouston  got  a  bargain  of  it.  Henry  started  business  in  Stromness,  and 
married  a  sister  of  Gow  the  pirate. 

Hugh  Clouston,  as  one  of  Kirkwall's  public  men,  is  better  known  than  his  son.  On  the 
Town  Council  he  was  a  stickler  for  the  due  observance  of  precedence.  There  was  something 
peculiar  about  the  municipal  election  of  1698.  "  Att  Kirkwall,  within  the  Tulbuith  thereof, 
the  threttie  of  September  1698  yeires,  The  Magistrates  and  deacons  have,  efter  votting  by 
pluralitie  of  votts,  nominat,  appcjynted,  and  chosen  William  Rendall  of  Breck,  John  Nisbett, 
David  Traill,  and  William  Fea,  with  Hough  Cloustane,  to  be  Counsillors  within  this  Brugh, 
and  adds  them  to  the  former  Counsillors,  to  sitt  and  votte,"  etc.  "  The  said  day  the  Magis- 
trates and  deacons  present  have  addmitted  Andrew  Strang  to  be  Counsillor  within  this 
Brugh."    "The  said  day  the  abovenamed  William  Rendall,  John   Nisbett,  David  Traill, 

*  From  titles  favoured  by  Mr  W.  J.  Heddle,  solicitor. 


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VICTORJA  .STREET.  315 

William  Fea,  and  Hugh  Clouston  have  all  and  ilk  ane  of  them  acceptit  to  be  counsillors,  and 
have  all  of  them  Judiciallie  taken  the  oath.  The  said  day  the  said  Andrew  Strang  has 
acceptit  to  be  Counsillor,  and  hes  taken  the  oth."  The  reason  does  not  appear  why  Andrew 
Strang  should  be  sworn  after  the  others,  but  so  it  was  ;  he  was  the  last  elected  Councillor. 

After  the  first  meeting  of  the  new  Council,  the  Clerk,  in  noting  the  sederunt,  put  Andrew 
Strang's  name  before  that  of  Hugh  Clouston.  The  same  thing  occurred  twice  afterwards,  and 
Councillor  Clouston  could  put  up  with  it  no  longer.  He  protested,  and  his  protest  was  taken 
up  by  the  Magistrates  and  Council  with  the  most  waggish  gravity.  The  Provost,  David 
Traill  of  Sabay,  stated  the  position,  and  tendered  apology  with  dry  humour. 

29th  October  1698,  "  The  provist  and  counsill  of  Kirkwall  having  taken  into  their  con- 
sideration the  protestatione  entered  by  Hugh  Cloustone,  one  of  the  Counsillors,  which  beads* 
and  craves  the  said  Hugh,  as  eldest  Counsillor,  have  the  precedencie  from  Andrew  Strang  as 
another  of  the  Counsillors.  The  saids  magistrates  and  Counsill  have  all  in  one  voice  votted 
for  the  said  Hugh  Cloustane  to  have  the  precedencie  nemine  contradisceutey  and  that  in  respect 
the  said  Hugh  hes  borne  a  great  pairt  more  of  the  Publick  Burden  ;  And  the  saids  Magistrates 
finds  the  protestatione  entered  hes  proceeded  from  the  Clerk  his  not  advertancie  the  tyme  of 
the  Sederunt  in  classing  the  said  Andrew  before  the  said  Hugh."  It  may  be  remarked  that 
the  Clerk  was  never  again  guilty  of  the  like  inadvertency. 

But  if  as  a  member  of  the  Corporation  he  amused  his  fellow-Councillors,  as  an  elder 
Clouston  rather  perplexed  the  Session.  At  a  meeting  of  Session,  10th  September  1722, 
"Barbara  Hourston,  Servant  Woman  to  Hugh  Clouston,"  was  "delated."  Hugh  was  absent 
from  that  meeting,  but  he  was  present  among  the  elders  at  the  next,  when  "the  ofiicer 
reported  with  respect  to  Barbara  Hourston,  that  he  was  seeking  her,  but  she  had  fled  off  the 
Town.  Appoynts  to  writt  to  Mr  Irving  to  cause  charge  her  if  in  Orphir,  as  also  appoynts  a 
letter  to  be  written  to  Mr  John  Nisbett,  minr.  at  Stromness,  to  hinder  her  going  off  the 
Country  from  the  harbour  of  Cairston." 

The  fact  was  that  "the  said  Barbara  had  fled  off  with  Thomas  Moodie's  boat  from 
Howton,  bound  for  Caithness."  As  the  money  required  for  this  flight  was  furnished  by 
Clouston's  daughters,  it  is  very  probable  that  the  elder  himself  knew  what  had  become  of  the 
girl.  But,  whether  confident  in  her  absence  or  in  his  own  innocence,  he  "  represented  to  the 
Session  that  that  base  woman,  Barbara  Houston,  who  was  his  servant,  hath  talked  abroad 
that  he,  the  said  Hugh,  was  the  father  of  her  child,  and  yt.  he  knows  no  reason  why  she 
should  talk  so,  but  that  in  summer  last,  because  of  her  indiscreet  carriage  and  Language 
towards  his  wife,  he  had  beat  her,  at  qch  tyme  she  said  yt.  she  should  cause  him  to  repent  yt. 
and  the  locking  of  her  chest.  And  the  said  Hugh  earnestly  desyres  that  she  may  be  punished 
and  the  matter  may  be  enquired  into,  that  he  may  be  freed  from  the  Scandal.  The  Session 
resolves  to  make  no  delay  in  pursuing  the  same,  when  they  can  have  the  said  Barbara  appre- 
hended." 

Barbara  was  found  in  the  parish  of  Dunnet,  and  was  examined  there  by  the  minister  and 
Session.  She  was  painfully  and  convincingly  minute  in  her  details,  but  then  the  other  side 
was  not  represented.  By  and  by  she  is  found  in  Orphir  and  brought  to  Kirkwall.  Here 
Barbara  Hourston's  strong  argument,  seeing  that  no  direct  evidence  could  be  had,  was  the 
fact  that  the  money  for  her  flight  was  furnished  by  her  master's  wife  and  daughters. 

After  many  meetings,  the  Session  unwillingly  give  their  suspected  brother  the  form  of  the 
oath  of  purgation,  in  order  that  he  might  study  it  carefully,  and  at  the  same  time  ordain  him 
to  speak  in  private  with  the  minister.  As  to  this  private  meeting,  Mr  William  Scott,  Mr 
Ker's  successor,  reported  that  he  "  had  dealt  seriously  with  him,  but  found  noe  satisfaction, 

*  Prays. 


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316  KIUKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

but,  on  the  contrary,  found  him  prevaricate  in  several  things,  and  plainly  upon  what  he  had 
formerlie  spoke  in  hearing  of  some  of  the  Elders." 

At  length,  on  Sabbath,  28th  June  1724,  more  than  a  year  and  a-half  from  the  "delation," 
with  evident  reluctance  on  the  part  of  Mr  Scott,  the  oath  was  administered  in  presence  of 
Barbara  Hourston,  and  Clouston  was  "purged  of  the  Scandal"  This  was  the  end  of  the 
matter  as  far  as  the  man  was  concerned,  but  the  unfortunate  woman  was  sent  back  to  the 
Presbytery  because  she  would  not  name  another  father  for  the  child. 

Mrs  Clouston — Jean  Richan— appears  in  the  Court-books.  It  would  seem  that  she  knew 
how  to  brew  good  ale,  and,  having  the  right  to  sell,  she  sometimes  had  to  deal  with  rough 
customers.  Donald  Jack  came  into  this  old  house  in  the  Laverock  on  the  afternoon  of 
Saturday,  22nd  July  1693,  accompanied  by  John  Smyllie,  merchant,  Glasgow  ;  Dougald 
Macqueen,  merchant,  Aberdeen  ;  and  John  Silver,  stamper.  When  the  ale  had  evidently 
begun  to  tell,  she  came  into  the  room  where  they  were,  "and  after  some  words  passed  betAvixt 
them,  the  said  Donald  did,  in  ane  unchristian,  base  manner,  and  having  shaken  off  all  fear  of 
God  and  regard  to  Christianitie,  name  and  call  the  said  prsuer.  ane  adultress  bratt,  whereby, 
and  in  so  doing,  the  said  Donald  is  guiltie  of  ane  high  and  manifest  scandell,  and  hes  hereby 
taken  away  the  complr^s.  name,  fame,  and  reputation."  His  cronies  were  the  witnesses 
against  him,  and  he  was  fined  £50,  to  be  paid  "  Instantlie  at  the  barre."  If  he  could  not  find 
sufficient  caution,  to  "  remaine  in  prisone  whill  payment  be  made." 

Shortly  after  this,  Henry  Clouston's  very  ruinous  house  was  sold  to  the  R^v.  William 
Scott,  already  mentioned  as  successor  to  Mr  Ker.  Mr  Scott  pulled  it  down,  and  built  on  the 
site  a  handsome  double  tenement,  with  courtyard  entered,  no  doubt,  as  the  fashion  then  was 
in  Kirkwall,  by  an  arched  gateway.  The  architect,  whether  by  Mr  Scott's  orders  or  in 
deference  to  his  employer's  profession,  decorated  the  south  putt-stone  of  the  northern  wing 
with  a  small  effigy  in  Geneva  cap  and  bands. 

Unlike  his  predecessor,  Mr  Scott  is  a  man  almost  without  a  history.  He  was  licensed  in 
1700  by  the  Presbytery  of  Biggar,  and  remained  a  probationer  for  twenty-three  years,  when 
Robert,  Earl  of  Morton,  and  the  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall  discovered  his  talents  and 
appointed  him  to  the  Second  Charge  in  St.  Magnus.  That  he  was  a  man  of  considerable 
means  is  obvious  from  the  fact  that  he  built  for  himself  a  manse,  which  for  comfort  and 
elegance  could  have  been  at  that  time  surpassed  by  very  few  houses  in  Orkney. 

Before  his  induction,  there  was  a  slight  dispute  between  the  Presbytery  and  the  Town 
Council  regarding  the  custody  of  "  the  charter  containing  the  gift  of  500  merks  mortified  by 
the  late  Queen  Anne  to  Mr  Andrew  Ker  and  successors  in  office  in  the  town  of  Kirkwall." 
"  The  Magistrates  acquaint  the  Presbytery  that  they  thought  it  belonged  to  them  to  keep,  and 
therefore  desire  the  Presbytery  might  cause  deliver  them  the  said  charter,"  The  Presbytery 
ordered  Mr  Baikie  to  bring  them  the  document,  and  having  got  it,  returned  it  to  Mr  Baikie 
"  to  keep  it  until  Mr  Scott  be  ordained,  and  then  to  deliver  it  to  Mr  Scott,  to  be  kept  by  him 
during  his  serving  of  the  cure."  He  "  served  the  cure"  till  February  1737,  when,  as  the  last 
bit  of  life's  business,  he  sent  for  Mr  Baikie  and  returned  him  "the  gift  of  mortification 
relative  to  the  second  minister's  stipend." 

In  the  "Fasti,"  we  are  told  that  Mr  Scott  "married  Katherine  Gilbert,  and  had  two 
daughters,  Sarah  and  Katherine."  But  we  know  that  besides  these  he  had  a  son,  William, 
who  sold  the  house  which  his  father  had  built  to  James  Traill,  manufacturer  and  merchant, 
one  of  the  Holland  family,  son  of  William  Traill,  Treasurer,  and  Anne  Sabiston.  Traill 
married  Marjorie  Grote,  and  had  a  daughter,  Isabel.  This  young  lady  married,  1795,  at  the 
age  of  forty-three,*  Christian  Thuring  of  Gottenburg.    Left  in  a  few  years  a  buxom  widow, 

♦  Dr  Train's  Genealogy. 


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VICTORIA   STREET.  317 

her  hospitality  sustained  the  ancient  reputation  of  the  Traills.  Any  evening  on  which  there 
was  no  Assembly  in  the  Town  Hall,  her  house  was  open  to  her  friends.  Cards,  followed  by 
supper  and  punch,  formed  the  standing  programme.  One  evening  the  gentlemen  competed  as 
to  which  of  them  should  concoct  the  strongest  jorum,  when  Captain  Cowan,  R.N.,  bore  away 
the  palm  and  delighted  the  guests  by  quietly  adding  to  his  browst  a  quantity  of  Cayenne 
pepper. 

This  house  had  its  peat-brae  and  garden  across  the  street,  stretching  down  to  the  Sands 
and  Oyce. 

Next  house  up  the  street,  in  1677,  belonged  to  Patrick  Murray,  and  was  occupied  by 
George  Mowat,  wright.  Of  the  proprietor  we  have  many  notices,  but  of  the  tenant  we  know 
very  little,  except  that  he  was  Deacon  of  the  Hammermen,  and  that  he  died  Saturday,  25th 
April  1685.* 

Shortly  afterwards  this  house  became  the  property  of  Francis  Halcro,  dyer,  who  got  into 
trouble  through  refusing  to  sell,  exchange,  or  lend  two  pieces  of  oak  which  belonged  to  him, 
and  which  were  wanted  for  the  defence  of  the  town  : — 

**  Kirkwall,  the  ninthteenth  Day  of  Januy.  1703  yeirs. 

**  The  said  day,  in  ane  town's  court  of  the  said  Brugh  keept  by  William  Young  and  William 
Liddell,  two  of  the  present  Baillies  of  the  said  towne,  Anent  some  threatning  Language  given  in  face 
of  Counsill  yesterday,  beiue  the  eighteenth  Instant,  by  Francis  Halcro,  dyer,  to  the  Magistratts  and 
Gounsill,  The  said  Francis  oeing  called  before  the  sds.  Magistratts,  compeiring,  and  being  Inquyred 
at  be  them  iff  he  wes  rash  and  Inconsiderate  in  his  expressions,  In  so  farre  as  yesterday,  he  being 
called  in  by  the  Magistratts  in  face  of  Counsill,  and  they  haveing  Inquyred  at  the  sd.  Francis  iff  he 
wold  lend  to  them  two  peices  of  oak  lyeing  besyde  him  for  two  peices  als  good,  for  the  use  of  the  great 
Guns,  or  iff  he  wold  sell  the  same  at  the  true  value  for  money,  who  answered  that  he  hade  keept  the 
said  peices  thir  eighteen  yeirs  bygone,  and  that  he  wold  keep  them  thir  tuelve  yeirs  to  come  for  his 
fancie,  and  that  he  wold  upon  no  termes  pairt  therewith  ;  And  that  iff  any  persone  offered  to  away 
take  the  said  peices  of  timber  from  him,  he  should  either  kill  or  be  killed.  The  said  Francis  being 
present,  confesses  what  is  above  WTine,  and  submitts  himself  to  the  sds.  Magistratts  for  his  transgres- 
sione,  and  because  he  cannot  writte,  gives  command  to  the  Nottar  Publick,  Clerk  of  Court,  to  siiove. 
for  him  this  his  Acknowledgment  and  Submissione." 

**  Tlie  Magistratts  haveing  considered  what  is  above  laid  to  the  sd.  Francis  his  chairge,  with  the 
said  Judiciall  Confessione,  they  Fyne  and  Americat  him  in  the  soume  of  Twentie  pounds  Scots  money 
for  his  Transgressione.  And  decernes  him  to  make  pnt.  payment  yrof,  And  to  find  sufficient  cautione 
for  his  good  behaviour  in  tyme  comeing ;  And  remitts  him  to  prisone  whill  he  pay  the  money  or 
find  Cautione  for  paying  yrof  and  for  his  good  behaviour.  Will  Young,  W.  Liddell." 

He  did  not  go  to  prison,  but  got  two  cautioners,  his  neighbour,  Hugh  Clouston,  being 
one. 

"Margaret  Halcro,  relict  of  umqle  Thomas  Bernardson,  lyferents  (1677)  ane  tenement 
under  theack  roof,  commonlie  called  ane  pt.  of  ye  land  of  Banks,  p'ntlie  possest  be  herself 
and  Edward  Bernardsone,  her  sone,  betwixt  the  King's  hie  street  towards  the  sands  on  the 
west,  quoyangrie  on  the  east,  the  land  now  pertaining  to  Patrick  Murray  on  the  north,  and 
the  ruinous  Manner  house  of  Banks  on  the  south."  There  can  be  little  doubt  that  the  manor 
house  of  Banks  had,  as  far  as  name  is  concerned,  a  common  origin  with  the  farm  ac^acent, 
called  Quoybanks.  Yet  the  house  was  not  situated  on  Quoybanks,  but  on  a  part  of  Quoy- 
angrie ;  and  the  relative  positions  of  these  two  quoys  were  clearly  laid  down  in  James  the 
Third's  Charter,  1486,  a  couple  of  centuries  before  the  date  of  our  earliest  existing  valuation 
roll. 

This  tenement,  "  of  old  called  Bernardson's  Land,"  is  now  represented  by  the  block  of 

which  the  late  Miss  Cobban's  house  formed  the  southern  half,  and  the  site  of  the  "  ruinous 

Manner  house  of  Banks"  is  occupied  by  the  Victoria  Street  Hall,  belonging  to  the  U.P. 

congregation. 

♦  T.  B. 


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318  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

One  of  the  Bernardsons,  Edward,  probably  uncle  of  the  youth  above-named,  came  as  near 
to  having  an  action  for  breach  of  promise  of  marriage  raised  against  him  as  the  injured 
woman's  knowledge  of  law  could  go.  28th  April  1669,  "  After  invocation  of  the  name  of  God, 
compeired  Anna  Chalmers,  and  put  in  a  supplication  anent  impeding  Edward  Bamardsone's 
proclamation  with  Margret  Budge,  becaus  she  alledged  promise  of  marriage,  and  offers  pro- 
bation, either  by  oath  or  witnesses.  The  said  Edward  compeired,  and  offered  to  give  his 
oath  that  he  never  promised  marriage  to  hir,  which  the  said  Anna  refused  to  accept.  Ordains 
the  proclamation  to  be  stayed  till  the  Minister  advise  with  the  ensueing  presbyterie  there- 
anent."  Miss  Chalmers,  however,  offered  no  further  opposition,  Harie  Erburie  having  come 
forward  as  cautioner  that  Edward  Bernardson  would  answer  before  a  court  of  law  if  required. 

As  to  Margaret  Halcro  (\vidow  Bernardson),  we  find  that,  like  many  another  anxious 
mother,  she  had  her  troubles  with  her  boy.  His  father's  seat  in  church  was  under  the  stool  of 
repentance,  and  had  been  shared  by  James  Adamson.  In  1687,  Peter  Adamson  and  Edward 
Bernardson  appear  before  the  Bishop  and  Session,  "  earnestly  desiring  an  act  in  their  favours 
for  the  said  seat,  that  they  might  attend  divine  service,"  It  was  undoubtedly  their  fathers' 
pew,  but  they  had  no  act,  owing  to  the  "  antiquity  of  the  possession."  They  got  the  desired 
act,  "  for  which  they  are  ordained  to  pay  at  the  acceptance  heirof  six  x)ounds  Scots  in  pious 
uses."  But  though  young  Bernardson  had  secured  his  father's  pew,  it  was  often  left  unoccupied 
as  far  as  his  personal  presence  was  concerned.  The  "  Black  Roll  "—a  list  of  disfrequenters  of 
ordinances — of  4th  February  1689  contains  the  name  of  Edward  Bernardson  ;  and  again,  16th 
November  1691,  Edward,  along  with  others,  was  found  drinking  ale  in  Harie  Tait's  house  in 
time  of  sermon. 

After  passing  through  many  hands,  the  northern  portion  of  Bemardson's  land  was  sold  by 
Dr  Robert  Groat  to  Isabel  Groundwater,  widow  of  Robert  Flett.  Her  grandson,  Robert 
Flett,  musician,  having  become  a  pauper,  his  house  fell  to  the  Parochial  Board,  1872. 

At  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century,  Robert  Nicolson,  vintner,  sold  the  sofuthern  half  to 
James  Cobban,  wright,  without  informing  the  purchaser  that  there  was  a  bond  of  £30  on  the 
property.  The  money  had  been  borrowed  from  the  Stewart  Trust  at  five  per  cent.,  and  when 
Cobban  represented  to  the  trustees  how  he  had  been  treated,  they  remitted  the  interest  on  his 
repaying  the  principal. 

After  belonging  successively  to  Robert  Cobban  and  his  daughter,  the  southern  portion  of 
Bemardson's  land  followed  the  fortune  of  the  northern  half,  and  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Parochial  Board,  from  whom  it  was  bought  by  Mr  David  Laughton,  merchant. 

In  1677,  the  site  occupied  by  the  U.P.  Hall  was  "  ane  pairt  of  ye  land  of  Banks,"  and  was 
occupied  by  "  ane  long  tenement  and  yaird,  formerlie  belonging  to  the  Stewarts  and  Blacks, 
and  yrafter  wadset  to  Robert  Nicolson  by  Thomas  Johnston,  son  to  Mr  George  Johnston  and 
Annas  Black." 

The  long  tenement  on  the  site  of  the  Hall  of  Banks  was,  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 
century,  known  as  "  Hallabanks."  The  Banks  family,  that  certainly  owned  the  Hall,  and 
probably  the  Quoy,  have  left  a  name,  but  almost  no  history.  In  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  the  Hall  of  Banks  had  been  acquired  by  Bailie  Matthew  Mowbray,  whose  son,  John, 
writes  from  Shetland  to  an  agent  in  Kirkwall  :— 

"  Scalloway,  Banks,  25  1676. 

*•  Much  respected, — I  am  informed  that  William  Davidson,  pror.  for  Chalmerlane  of 

Zeatland,  Is  persouinff  for  that  house  of  myn  p'tlie  possest  be  Robert  NicoUon  By  vertue  of  ane  right 
granted  be  Banks  as  aire  to  Alister  Banks,  his  goodshire.     Ye  know  by  my  papers  that  this 

man's  father,  John  Banks,  hed  the  same,  wt.  more,  from  his  father,  whom  they  pretend  right  to  as 
aire  ;  as  also  ye  know,  I  left  wt.  you,  amongst  the  rest  of  my  peapers,  ane  Inhibitione  at  the  instance 
of  James  Morrisone,  for  a  debt  resting  to  the  said  Alister  Banks,  father  to  John  Banks,  my  author," 
&c.,  &c.  (Signed)        "Jo.  Mowbbay." 


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VICTORIA   STREET.  319 

Very  shortly  after  the  date  of  this  letter,  the  old  Hall  must  have  passed  from  Mowbray 
to  Stewart.  Possibly  it  came  to  the  Blacks  by  a  marriage  with  a  Stewart,  and  it  certainly 
was  by  marriage  that  it  passed  from  Black  to  Johnston. 

In  1642,  Mr  George  Johnston  was  translated  from  Sanquhar  to  the  First  Charge  in  St. 
Magnus,  and  the  same  year  he  ''  sought  the  congregation  of  Kirkwall  their  consent  unto  his 
transportation  to  the  Kirk  of  Orphir."  Along  with  other  Orkney  ministers,  he  was  deposed 
for  signing  the  address  to  Montrose.  His  first  wife,  Katherine  Nisbitt,  died  1644,  when  her 
dresses  were  valued  at  £115  Scots.  His  second  wife,  Annas  Black,  survived  him,  and  in  1661 
received  from  Government  a  gift  of  £100  on  account  of  her  husband's  loyalty  and  sufferings.* 

At  the  time  of  the  above-mentioned  wadset,  the  "  long  tenement "  was  occupied  by  John 
Manson,  vintner,  and  after  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Nicolsons  it  was  for  several  generations 
kept  as  a  tavern. 

Robert  Nicolson,  who  was  vintner  here  at  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  is  better 
known  as  a  musician.  His  name  is  frequently  met  in  connection  with  Masonic  demon- 
strations, public  processions,  and  the  assemblies  in  the  old  Town  Hall. 

The  hall  on  the  site  of  the  old  tavern  is  a  neat  and  possibly  useful  building,  erected  from 
designs  by  T.  S.  Peace,  Esq.,  architect.  It  is  very  commonly  said  that  the  cost  of  the  edifice 
was  largely  defrayed  by  money  earned  by  the  brewing  of  intoxicating  liquors.  If  this  be  true, 
the  place  has  a  double  dedication  to  Bacchus.  In  this  connection,  a  leading  member  of  the 
teetotal  movement  in  Kirkwall  said — "  And  why  not  ?  I  would  always  be  willing  to  take  the 
Devil's  money  for  the  purpose  of  fighting  the  Devil  !" 

In  1677,  the  site  between  the  hall  and  the  Clay  Loan  was  occupied  by  four  small  houses. 
"  Francis  Murray  hath  ane  tenement  under  theack  roofe,  possest  by  himself,  and  thrie  other 
houses,  possest  by  tennents,  betwixt  the  south  side  of  the  land  of  Bankes,  on  ye  north ;  the 
comon  loan  on  ye  south,  Quoyangrie  on  ye  east,  and  the  comon  street  and  sands  on  ye  west.*' 

Of  PVancis  Murray^s  life  we  know  only  a  little.  Thomas  Brown  records  hia  death,  13th 
January  1684.  The  good  he  did,  and  he  must  have  done  some  good,  is  "  interred  with  his 
bones  "  ;  but  his  *'  evil  manners  live  in  brass."  He  found  himself  before  the  Ses-sion,  27th 
March  1682,  and  the  occasion  is  interesting,  as  it  furnishes  the  principle  on  which  names  were 
anciently  given  to  the  unfortunate  bantlings  who  intruded  themselves  into  a  world  where 
they  were  not  wanted.  "Francis  Murray,  wright,  acknowledged  himself  the  father  of 
Margaret  Kincaid's  child,  and  ordained  Magnus  Taylour  to  hold  up  the  said  child  to  be 
baptised,  and  the  mother  thereof  to  give  her  name  to  the  child,  because  it  was  a  lass." 

Murray's  houses  seem  to  have  been  bought  by  George  Strang,  dyer,  who  left  them  to  his 
nephew,  Robert.  Thus  it  came  about  that  on  the  24th  May  1746,  "Appeared  personally  at 
and  upon  the  ground  of  the  Tenement  of  Land  and  uyrs  underwritten  -.—James  Traill, 
Merchant,  one  of  the  Baillies  of  the  said  Burgh,  and  with  him  Robert  Laing,  present  Dean-of- 
Guild,  procurator  and  attorney,  specially  constituted  for  and  in  name  and  behalf  of  Robert 
Strange,  Engraver  at  London,  eldest  lawful  son  of  the  deceased  David  Strang,  late  merchant 
in  Kirkwall,  procreate  betwixt  him  and  the  also  deceased  Jean  Scollay,  his  spouse,  nephew  of 
the  deceased  George  Strang,  late  dyer,  and  which  George  Strang  was  full  brother  german  to 
the  said  David  Strang, — The  Tenement  presently  possessed  by  Magnus  Laughton,  shipmaster, 
etc.,  bounded  by  the  quoy  called  Quoyangrie  on  the  east,  the  Common  Loan  on  the  south, 
the  sands  and  Oyce  of  Kirkwall  on  the  west,  and  the  Nicolson's  houses  and  yairds  on  the 
north,  with  the  piece  of  ground,  within  Quoyangrie,  sold  to  Francis  Murray  by  James 
Morison." 

This  would  go  to  correct  an  impression  derived  from  the  perusal  of  Dennistoun's  Life  of 

•  Faati. 


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320  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

Sir  Robert  Strange.  From  that  work  we  would  certainly  infer  that  Strange  only  went  to 
London  after  the  Act  of  Oblivion,  when  the  CuUoden  rising  was  squashed  and  the  rebels 
forgiven.  Now  this  infeftment,  which  took  place  a  month  before  the  battle  of  CuUoden  had 
been  fought,  and  while  Strange  was  actually  with  the  Pretender's  army,  proves  that  the 
engraver  had  been  working  in  London  when  the  Rebellion,  or  rather  Miss  Lumisden,  called 
him  north  again. 

In  1770,  Strange  sold  this  corner  tenement  to  Isabell  Kynnaird,  widow  of  John  Gray  of 
Roeberry,  and  in  1813  her  son,  Malcolm  Gray,  succeeded  to  it. 

The  Valuation  Roll  of  1677  shows  the  site  of  the  National  Bank  to  have  been  occupied  by 
two  houses.    That  next  the  lane  belonged  to  Douglas  of  Egilshay. 

In  1224,  the  Cathedral  of  the  Bishops  of  Moray,  which  had  formerly  been  at  Spynie,  was. 
fixed  at  Elgin.  Spynie  Castle,  however,  remained  the  episcopal  palace.  In  1606,  when 
episcopacy  was  restored,  the  Rev.  Alexander  Douglas,  minister  of  Elgin,  was  made  Bishop, 
and  held  the  see  for  seventeen  years.  Like  most  of  the  Bishops  of  that  time,  he  used  his 
office  to  enrich  his  family.  He  conveyed  the  lands  and  Castle  of  Spynie,  with  other  pro- 
perties, to  his  eldest  son,  Alexander,  who  died  Provost  of  Banff,  1669.* 

In  1663,  Alexander  Douglas,  younger  of  Spynie,  got  a  commission  to  manage  the  Earldom 
of  Orkney,  and  as  part  of  his  duty  he  was  "  to  prosecute  and  follow  forth  all  actions  of 
Reduction  of  Vassals,  Infeftments  of  the  said  Earldome,  Lordship,  and  udal  Lands,  and  uyr 
wayes  to  quarrell  and  Impugn  the  samyn  as  accords."  He  induced  many  of  the  udallers  to 
take  feudal  charters.t  In  1665,  he  granted  commission  to  his  son,  William,  to  act  for  him. 
William  Douglas  married  Marjorie  Monteith,  one  of  the  "co-heirs"  of  Patrick  Monteith. 
Acting  for  his  wife,  he  sold  her  third  of  her  father's  house  in  Kirkwall,  **  the  Tenement  called 
the  Chancellor's  Manse,"  and  he  bought  up  the  two-thirds  of  Egilshay  belonging  to  his  sisters- 
in-law  ;  thus  William  became  the  first  Douglas  of  Egilshay.  Egilshay  passed  to  the  Baikies 
by  the  marriage  of  William's  grand-daughter,  Janet,  to  James  Baikie  of  Tankerne-ss,  1737. 

The  house  south  from  Douglas'  tenement  belonged  to  Hew  Sinclair  of  Danisay.  "At 
Raniebister,  15th  April  1614,  Thomas  Swentoune,  Archdean  of  Orkney  and  minister  of  Goddis 
word  at  Kirkwall,  and  Hew  Sinclair,  Mercht.,  Lawl.  son  of  umql.  Robert  Sinclair  of  Campston, 
contract  that  the  said  Hew  shall  marry  Janet  Swentoune,  Daur.  of  said  Thomas,  in  face  of 
Hali  Kirk,  betwixt  date  and  21  June  next  to  come,  with  600  merks  TcJcher — 200  at  Marts.  1614, 
200  at  Marts.  1615,  Snd  200  at  Marts.  1616  ;  500  merks  to  be  paid  by  Breaker  at  Rainibister. 
Witnesses,  Robert  Chalmers  and  Geo.  Balfour." 

Patrick  Murray,  who  had  married  Elizabeth  Swenton,  got  into  pecuniary  difficulties,  and, 
6th  March  1627,  "  Patrick  Murray  of  Woodwick,  with  consent  of  Elizabeth  Swentoune,  his 
spouse,  for  as  meikle  as  his  brother-in-law,  Hew  Sinclair,  Mercht.,  ludwellr.  in  Kirkll.,  has 
payit  to  me  ane  great  sum  of  money,  sells  to  said  Hew,  heretably  and  irredeemably,  the  Lands 
and  Isle  of  Damsay."    With  this  went  a  one-merk  udal  land  in  Grimbister.  { 

Hugh  Sinclair  made  his  will  at  Coubister  in  1660,  and  at  that  time  one  of  his  sons, 
Thomas,  owned  Smoogrow,  and  another,  David,  possessed  Ryssay.  William  Mudie,  younger 
of  Melsetter,  bought  his  house  in  Kirkwall  from  Sinclair.  The  dealings  between  Mudie  and 
Sinclair  did  not  go  smoothly ;  there  was  a  very  pretty  quarrel,  although  now  it  is  difficult, 
perhaps  impossible,  to  discover  the  bone  of  contention.  Whatever  it  was,  the  sheri£E^ 
Buchanan  of  Sound,  took  Damsay's  view  of  the  case,  the  sheriff  himself  having  at  the  same 
time  an  unsettled  dispute  with  Melsetter. 

William  Mudie  writes  from  prison  to  the  Earl  of  Morton  : — 

•  Shaw's  History  of  Moray.        t  H.  L.        t  H.  L. 


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VICTORIA  STBEET.  321 

'*  Right  Honble, — Since  yr.  Lordp.  has  been  pleased  to  take  the  p&ines  for  your  Lordp/s  servt.  and 
suppliant  in  this  eontraverted  business  betwixt  Siound  and  me,  suffer  me  to  beg  at  your  Lordp.  's  hand, 
since  I  have  not  the  freedom  to  enlarge  myself  to  yr.  Lordp.  by  speach,  that  yr.  Lordp.  be  pleased  to 
desire  Sound  to  shew  yr.  Lordp.  Damsay's  Bond,  at  the  least  the  Registered  Bcmd,  that  yr.  Lordp. 
may  see  the  date  of  it ;  as  also,  if  yr.  Lordp.  be  pleased,  I  shall  desire  Robert  Drummond  to  show  you 
the  date  of  my  father's  Inhibitions,  for  they  are  two  raised  by  hitu  against  Damsay.  The  first  of  them 
is  used,  1661,  and  the  other  in  1662.  And  it  is  possible  Sound  has  looked  to  the  last  on  the  Register. 
But  I  assure  yr.  Lordp.  the  first  Inhibition  is  farr  prior  to  any  pretended  Bond  granted  be  Damsay  to 
Sound's  Anthory.  So,  when  your  Lordp.  has  done  and  seen  both,  then  I  hope  yr.  Lordp.  will  know 
who  hes  the  best  right  betwixt  us.  For  I  am  confident  that  yr.  Lordp.,  after  true  Information  and 
Inspection  of  his  Bond  and  the  date  of  my  Father's  Inhibition,  and  if  yr.  Lordp.  please  yr.  Lordp. 
shall  see  the  dates  of  my  Father's  Infef  tments  and  my  own  Registered  here,  that  yr.  Lordp.  will  not 
suffer  such  violent  Intrution  used  within  yr.  Lordp. 's  Country  as  Sound  has  done  to  me  while  I  am  yr. 
Lordp. 's  Prisoner.  If  yr.  Lordp.,  after  inspection  of  both  our  papers,  finds  that  he  has  ane  better 
right  nor  I  have,  then  let  him  keep  his  intruded  possession  till  law  decide  it,  otherwise  let  me  begg 
yr.  Lordp.  that  I  may  have  my  laud  peaceably  keened.  I  pray  yr.  Lordp.  pardon  my  Importunity 
in  enlarging  so  far.  For  at  this  time  I  have  found  such  favour  at  yr.  Lorap.'s  hands  that  I  never 
deserved  nor  am  worthy  of  so  much.  But  I  wishe  I  could  be  yr.  Lordp's  Servant  for  it  in  all  future 
tyme  dureing  my  life  Iff  it  so  please  yr.  Lordp.  so  to  accept  of  me.  I  am  loath  to  offend  any  further, 
but  beffs  yr.  Lordp. 's  pardon  for  my  boldness,  and  yr.  Lordp's  answer  I  humbly  beg  if  it  be  yr. 
Lordp.^s  pleasure,  my  Lord. — Your  Lordp. 's  most  humble  Servt.,  W.  Mudib. 

"  P.S. — I  beg  at  yr.  Lordp. 's  hands  that  I  may  enlarge  a  little.  I  suppose  that  yr.  Lordp.  knows 
that  my  Servant  wes  brought  in  Prisoner  by  Sound  yesterday,  And  I  humbly  beg  at  yr.  Lordp. 's  hand 
I  may  know  upon  what  accompt.  If  it  be  on  this  ground  as  Robeil  Irving  shows  me,  that  he  wes 
with  me  at  that  tyme  in  the  Church,  I  will  give  my  oath  that  hee  wes  not  neare  me  be  twenty  myles 
Uuit  day.  Therefore  I  beg  that  yr.  Lordp.  would  take  this  to  consideration,  that  he  may  be  sett  at 
Liberty.     I  humbly  beg  pardon  at  yr.  Lordp. 's  hands  for  enlarging  so  far." 

We  learn  what  took  place  "at  that  tyme  in  the  Church"  and  the  reason  of  Mudie'a 
imprisonment  from  the  following  trial : — 

"Case  of  William  Moodie,  Fiab  of  Melsetteb,  vs,  Sinclair  of  Gyre 
and  douolases,  1664. 

"  1664,  July  20. — Sederunt— William,  Earle  of  Morton  ;  Lord  Dalkeith  and  Aberdour,  one  of  His 
Maj.'s  Most  Honble.  Privy  Councill ;  Patrick  Blair  of  Little  Blair ;  Hew  Halcro  of  that  ilk  ;  Mr 
Patrick  Graham  of  Rothiesholm ;  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound  ;  John  Buchanan,  Tutor  to  Newark  ; 
William  Douglas,  Chamberlane  of  Orkney  ;  George  Smith  of  Rapness  ;  John  Mphingston  of  Lopness» 
justices  of  His  Majestie's  Peace. 

**  Depositions  of  thb  Witnesses. 

*'  Patrick  Halcro,  of  50  years,  deponed  that  when  Spynie  was  to  enter  the  Church  dore  he  saw 
William  Mudie,  Frances  Mudie,  Donald  Mudie,  with  the  number  of  ten  or  twelve  more,  with  their, 
swords  and  pistolls  and  their  hands  in  their  guards  within  the  church  door,  and  the  said  Patrick, 
fearing  a  uproare  being  collecting  at  the  door,  ran  out  and  shew  Spynie  they  were  laid  for  him  and  his 
sones,  Desireing  him  to  Return  back  to  his  lodging,  and  caused  shut  the  church  door. 

"Francis  Auchinleck,  of  36  ^eares,  deponed  that  he  saw  the  said  William  Mudie  and  his 
complices  within  the  church  door  with  their  swords  in  their  hands. 

'*  James  Sinclair,  of  66  yeares,  deponed  that  he  saw  the  said  William  Mudie  and  his  complices 
within  the  church  door  with  their  hands  in  the  guards  of  their  swords,  and  advanced  from  the  body 
of  the  church  to  the  church  door  when  they  heard  of  Spynie's  advance,  and  that  he  heard  the  Sheriff 
command  him  in  His  Maj.'s  name  to  go  to  his  seat,  which  he  refused. 

**  William  Gadie,  of  48  yeares,  Deponed  that  he  saw  four  men  on  every  side  of  the  door  with  their 
hands  in  the  guards  of  their  swords  and  others  about  him. 

"  David  Comer,*  of  48  yeares,  deponed  that  he  heard  the  Sheriff  comand  him  to  his  seat  in  his 
May  tie's  name,  who  refused,  said  he  wold  not  be  comanded,  he  would  go  where  he  pleased,  and  did 
see  him  with  his  complices  with  their  pistolls,  and  some  of  them  with  their  hands  in  their  guards,, 
with  many  more  with  him." 

After  much  further  evidence  to  the  same  effect, 

♦  Town  Clerk. 

2t 


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KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

*'  Upon  consideration  of  the  Commission  and  deposition  of  witnesses,  the  Rt.  Honble.  The  Earle 
of  Morton  and  those  of  the  Commission,  with  the  advyce  of  the  forsaids  Justices  of  the  Peace,  finds 
the  Riott  to  be  such  as  that  they  remitt  the  samen  wholly  to  His  Majtie's  Councill,  and  therefore 
ordaines  the  stiid  William  Mudy  to  find  sufficient  caution,  under  the  paiue  of  five  thousand  merks, 
that  he  and  his  accomplices  that  accompanyed  him  at  the  said  Ryot  shall  appear  before  His  Majtie's 
Council!  to  Receave  their  censure  for  their  misdemeanour  at  any  time  heirarter  the  said  Noble  Earle 
■and  any  two  of  the  Commissioners  shall  appoint  them,  Provided  that  they  send  him  ane  order  under 
their  hands  to  his  Father's  house  in  Walls  twenty  days  before  the  day  of  their  appearance. 

*'Item.  They  also  ordane  him,  conform  to  the  Commission,  to  find  caution  for  keeping  His 
Majtie's  peace  under  the  paine  of  2000  merks,  and  that  his  Brother  Francis  find  caution  to  the  peace 
for  one  thousand  merks,  and  the  rest  of  the  Complices  under  the  paine  of  five  hundreth  merks  a  peese 
for  keeping  of  the  peace.  And  that  he  cause  tnem  to  come  in  and  do  the  same  to  the  Clerk  of  the 
Piece  betwixt  this  and  the  first  of  August  next  to  come,  and  that  he  be  returned  to  Prison  till  he  find 
sufficient  caution  in  everything  foresaid,  conforme  to  the  Commission. 

"  Item.  My  Lord  and  the  Commissioners  finds  that  in  the  Records  he  hes  contemned  Authority 
to  bind  to  the  Peace,  being  requyred  b^ the  Justices  both  on  the  30th  of  April  and  tift  of  May  at  their 
Quarter  Sessions.  And  therefore  ordaines  the  Clerk  to  draw  out  the  process  formally,  that  it  may  be 
sent  to  the  Councill  at  his  Lordship's  conveniency.  (Signed)        Morton. 

Pa.  Blair. 

Hugh  Halcro. 

Mr  P.  Grahahb. 

Arthur  Buchanan." 

Moodie  raises  a  counter  action  : — 

**  Kirkwall,  1st  September  1664 

"  The  which  day,  conforme  to  ane  Act  and  Referanoe  of  the  date  the  5th  of  August  last,  To  the 
Ekirle  of  Morton  and  his  Deputs  and  Justices  of  the  Peace  of  Orkney,  Granted  by  the  Rt.  Honble. 
The  T^rds  of  His  Majtie.'s  most  Honble.  Privy  Councill,  Anent  ane  complaint  raised  at  the  instance 
of  William  Mudy,  Fiar  of  Melsetter,  upon  a  Riott  done  to  him  upon  the  29th  of  April  Last,  Be  George 
Sinclare  of  Gyre,  Alexander  Douglas  of  Spynie,  and  William  Douglas,  Chamberlane  of  Orknay,  which 
Commission  is  to  try  and  examine  the  said  Complaint,  and  for  that  effect  to  cite  partyes  and  witnesses 
and  report  to  the  said  Honble.  Privy  Councill. 

**  In  obedience  thereof. 

"Sederunt— The  Right  Honble.  William,  Earle  of  Morton,  Lord  Dalkeith  and  Aberdour,  one  of 
His  Majtie.'s  Most  Honorable  Privy  Councill,  Sheriff  Prinll.  of  Orknay  and  Zetland,  and  Justiciare 
thereof ;  Patrick  Blair  of  Little  Blair,  Sheriff  Depute  ;  Archibald  Stewart  of  Burray,  Mr  Patrick 
Grahame  of  Rothiesholm,  Arthur  Buchanan  of  Sound,  Georce  Smyth  of  Rapness,  John  Elphingston  of 
Lopness,  and  John  Buchanan  of  Sandsytt,  Justices  of  His  Majesty's  Peace. 

**  The  Court  fenced,  the  partyes  called,  the  witnesses  produced  be  William  Mudy  and  David 
Comer,  his  procurator,  in  his  name,  which  witnesses  being  called,  the  said  George  Sinclare  of  Gyre, 
Alexander  Douglas,  Younger  of  Spynie  ;  and  William  Douglas,  Chamberlane,  being  required  if  they 
had  anything  to  object  against  the  witnesses,  who  answered  they  had  no  objection  at  all. 

**  The  parties  removed  and  the  witnesses  judicially  sworn. 

"  Depositions. 

**  Hugh  Halcro  of  that  Ilk,  of  28  yeeres.  Deponed  Being  sitting  in  James  Linay's  house  with 
William  Mnidy.  Alexander  Bruce  called  the  saia  William  Muidy  to  the  door,  the  said  Alexander 
Bruce  haveing  no  Armes.  Thereafter,  when  the  said  Hugh  came  to  the  street.  He  found  William 
Muidy  and  George  Sinclare  of  Gyre  scolding  and  quarrelling  in  words.  After  that  he  saw  both  their 
swords  out,  but  knows  not  who  drew  first.  Depones  that  after  that  he  saw  Alexander  Douglas, 
younger  of  Spynie,  Draw  his  sword  and  let  in  a  strouck  at  William  Muidy,  but  did  no  harm  at  all. 
Depones  that  himself,  Robert  Sinclare  of  Sabay,  and  David  Craiffie  did  separate  them,  and  when  they 
were  separate  he  saw  nothing  but  a  scratch  on  William  Muidye's  thumb,  and  another  scratch  on 
George  Sinclare  of  Gyre  his  Lipp.  Depones  that  William  Douglas,  Chamberlane,  came  out  of  a  house 
hard  ny,  but  never  drew  a  sword.  Depones  that  he  saw  Francis  Muidy  standing  with  a  cocket  pistoll 
which  the  said  William  Douglas,  as  one  of  the  Justices  of  the  Peace,  threw  the  said  pistoll  out  of  his 
hand.  Depones  that  after  that  he  saw  the  said  Francis  Muidy  cutt  in  the  head,  but  did  not  see  any 
pistoUs  among  the  other  party  at  all,  nor  knows  not  who  cutt  the  said  Francis.  So  much  he  deponed 
and  knows  no  more. 

**  Robert  Sinclair  of  Sabay  deponed  tU  supra  only  that  he  did  not  see  Alexander  Douglas  draw  a 
stroak.     So  much  he  deponed  and  Knew  no  more. 

"  William  Young,  of  34  yeeres,  depones  he  being  in  a  house  hard  by  with  William  Douglas,  when 
he  ran  out  with  him  he  saw  William  Douglas  throw  the  pistoll  out  of  Francis  Muidye's  hand. 
Depones  that  he  saw  George  Sinclare  of  Gyre  with  his  drawn  sword  in  his  hand,  and  also  William 
Muidy  with  his  drawn  sword  in  his  hand,  and  sicklyke  Alexander  Douglas  with  his  drawn  sword  in 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  323 

his  hand,  and  Robert  Sinclare  of  Sabay  holding  Gyre  in  his  armes,  and  that  he  saw  David  Craigie 
holding  William  Muidy,  and  sawe  Halcro  holding  Alexander  Douglas  in  his  Armes.  Depones  he  saw 
a  wound  in  Francis  Muidye*s  head,  but  knew  not  who  gave  it  him,  and  saw  no  more  wounds  or  stroaks 
amongst  them  all.     So  much  he  depones  and  knew  no  more. 

**  Arthur  Baiky,  of  38  yeeres,  depones  that  he  saw  George  Sinclair  of  Gyre's  sword  out,  but  did 
not  see  him  to  strick  any,  and  that  he  saw  Francis  Muidy  haveing  a  pistoU  in  his  hand,  and  WiUiam 
Douglas  and  William  Young  taking  the  pistoU  out  of  his  hand,  and  saw  the  said  Francis  Muidy e's 
head  cutt,  but  knew  not  who  gave  it  to  him.  Being  interrogate  if  he  saw  Alexander  Douglas,  George 
Sinclair,  or  Alexander  Bruce  borrowing  swords  and  pistoUs,  or  lodding  pistoUs  in  his  booth,  Depones 
negative,  and  that  he  saw  not  William  Douglas  draw  his  sword  nor  strick  any.  So  much  he  depones 
and  knew  no  more." 

Many  other  witnesses  were  examined,  and  "  it  is  hereby  ordered  that  the  Clerk  shall  draw 
out  the  foresaid  Depositions  in  ane  ample  form,  and  that  he  have  them  ready  with  the  first 
occasion  to  the  South  to  be  sent  to  his  Majtie's  Councill.  And  this  shall  be  liis  warrand, 
subscribed  by  Pa.  Blair." 

The  Mudies  claim  to  be  the  oldest  landowners  in  Orkney  in  present  possession.  William 
Mudie,  first  of  Breckness,  who  was  also  Mudie  of  Melsetter,  in  a  charter  of  Queen  Mary  within 
ninety  years  of  the  impignoration  of  the  islands,  is  credited  with  this,  that  his  ancestors  had 
been  ''  ancient  and  odal  possessors  of  Snelsetter  from  time  immemoric'il." 

An  ancient  bit  of  the  Mudie  estate  is  thus  described  in  ^^  The  Coppie  of  my  Lord  Sinclair's 
Rentale  that  Deit  at  Flowdin  "  :—"  Brabuster  Beneth  the  hill  wes  ane  uris  terre  of  the  quhilk 
the  first  erle  henrie  gaif  to  the  viccar  iijd  terre  for  the  uphald  of  ane  mess  in  hoy  a  day  ilk 
oulk  for  evir."  This  land  is  then  said  to  be  "  In  manibus  Magistri  Wilhilmi  Mudy."  Hoy's 
weekly  mass  was  no  doubt  regularly  celebrated  for  over  a  centuiy  and  a  half,  and  when  it 
ceased  the  Mudies  claimed  the  fee. 

In  the  same  Rental  are  transactions  between  Earl  Patrick  Stewart  and  "  Adam  Muddie 
of  Breknes  "  affecting  certain  lands,  in  which  it  is  not  suprising  to  find  that  the  Earl  had  the 
best  of  the  bargains. 

Mr  William  Mudie,  referred  to  in  "My  Lord  Sinclair's  Rentale,"  was  necessarily  a 
celebate,  but  Mr  William  Mudie  of  1574  was  married,  and  was  succeeded  in  his  estates  by  his 
son,  Adam,  and  he  by  Francis,  the  last  Mudie  of  Breckness.  Francis  "lost"  Breckness  to 
Bishop  Graham  in  rather  a  remarkable  manner,  if  the  family  tradition  is  reliable.  There  are 
certain  offences  against  the  moral  law  which  the  State  does  not  regard  as  crimes,  but  for  which 
the  Church  in  those  days  imposed  fines,  varying  in  amount  according  to  the  means  of  the 
offender.  Francis  Mudie  had  run  up  such  a  frightful  score  of  these  sins  of  commissicm  that, 
to  wipe  off  his  arrears,  Breckness  went  to  the  Bishop.  But  there  are  evidences  of  money 
transactions  between  the  parties,  and  in  1634  Mudie's  son  had  signed  with  him  a  bond  over 
Breckness  for  £1000  Scots,  advanced  by  the  Bishop.  Still,  the  phrase,  "  lost  Breckness  to 
Bishop  Graham,"  is  significant,  and  indicates  a  compromise.  This  Saint  Francis,  benefactor 
of  the  church — Wanton  Francis  is  his  title  in  the  family  papers — was  followed  in  Melsetter  by 
his  son,  James,  whose  eldest  son,  William,  was  the  hero  of  the  Broad  Street  riot.  William 
was  naturally  regarded  by  his  father  as  unreliable,  and  in  1699  the  estate  was  made  over  to  his 
brother,  Captain  James,  who,  however,  left  the  management  in  the  hands  of  his  nephew, 
James  Moodie,  William's  son.  And  here  a  letter  to  his  uncle  from  the  young  factor  gives 
some  insight  into  the  family  history.  The  necessity  for  such  an  epistle  becomes  obvious  when 
it  is  remembered  that  Captain  Moodie  had  gone  to  sea  as  a  boy,  and  had  been  engaged  in 
active  service  ever  since  : — 

"  But  for  your  better  information,  and  that  you  may  take  advice  about  it,  heir  follows  the  true 
state  of  the  mater.  In  anno  1593,  there  past  a  contract  'twixt  Patrick,  Earle  of  Orkney,  and  Mr 
William  Moodie  of  Breckness,  whereby  the  said  Mr  William  Moodie  sells  and  annailzies  to  and  in 


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324  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

favour  of  the  said  Earle  his  8  pennyland  of  Dowvray,  with  the  iniln  suken  and  sequels  yrof,  and 
obliges  himself  Instantly  to  Infett  the  stiid  Earle  yrin  in  due  form  ;  for  which  cause  the  said  Earle 
binds  and  obliges  him,  his  aires  and  assignees,  to  content  and  pay  to  the  said  Mr  William,  his  aires  or 
assignees,  all  and  haill  the  sum  of  1000  lb.  Scots,  and  for  theyre  security,  did  Instantly  grant  ane 
Infeftment  of  @  rent*  (with  Chartour  and  Seasine  following  yrupon,  all  deuly  expeded)  of  ane  100  lbs. 
Scots  money  yearly,  to  be  nplifted  furth  of  the  said  E^rle liis  lands  of  Loapness  in  Sanday,  Liuids  of 
Ityssay  in  Walls,  tonne  of  Brims  yr,  and  3  half-pennie  Lands  in  Osmundwall,  with  power  to  the  said 
Jdr  William  and  his  forsaids  to  detain  the  saia  100  lbs.  in  theyre  own  hands  out  of  the  first  and 
readiest  of  the  maills  and  dewties  of  these  Lands,  and  discharging  his  Chamberlain  and  Baillies  to 
molest  the  said  Mr  William  or  his  forsaids  in  the  possession  of  the  said  @  rent.  It  is  here  to  be 
noted  that  the  said  Earle  had  sett  the  sd.  Lands  several  years  before  to  the  sd.  Mr  William,  who,  by 
A'ertue  of  that  tack  and  Infeftment  of  @  rent,  did  possess  the  said  Lands  during  his  life,  but  dying 
some  few  years  yrafter,  and  leaving  his  sone  very  young,  the  Earle,  amongst  other  his  cruell  oppres- 
sions, did  by  force  dispossess  Adam  Moodie  of  all  except  the  lands  of  Brims  and  3  half-pennie  lands  in 
Osmundwall,  which  did  not  extend  to  the  half  of  the  @  rent.  I  cannot  condescend  upon  the  year  he 
was  dispossest,  only  it  was  about  1612.  Adam  soon  raised  pursuit  against  the  Earle,  who  at  that  time 
having  turned  ane  open  and  declared  Rebell,  used  all  manner  of  oppression  both  against  his  Vassals 
and  Strangers  ;  and|  amongst  the  rest,  put  a  garrison  into  Snelsetter,  and  turned  Adam,  his  wife,  and 
familie  to  the  doore,  himself  being  at  Edinr.  at  the  time  ;  but  before  he  did  any  thing  in  the  business, 
he  dyed  and  left  his  Sone,  Francis,  to  pursue  the  E.,  which  he  did  so  effectually,  that  he  was  the  onely 
persone  most  active  in  reducing  and  apprehending  him  and  bringing  him  to  deserved  punishment. 
Francis  was  never  infeft  in  his  estate,  nor  in  that  ^  rent,  and  so  could  not  doe  anything  m  it.  You 
know  all  the  rest  of  his  actions  make  him  appear  to  have  been  no  exact  or  careful  man.  His  Sone, 
James,  succeeding,  did  serve  himself  aire  to  Adam,  who  died  last,  vest  and  seized  in  that  annual  rent, 
and  pursued  with  a  great  deal  of  vigour,  and  brought  it  the  leuth  of  a  povnding  of  the  ground,  but 
the  Earle  of  Morton  naving  the  wodsett  of  the  Earldom  of  Orkney  from  the  Kin^,  did  oppose  mightily, 
and  you  may  thinke  behooved  to  be  too  powerful ;  for  your  Father,  however,  if  the  unfortunate  dif- 
ference betwixt  him  and  his  Sone  had  not  happened  at  that  time,  he  had  certainly  effectuate  the 
business,  but  that  you  know  toc*k  off  his  edge,  and  ever  after  made  him  careless,  and  in  this  posture 
it  still  remains  ;  all  the  defence  ever  was  made  by  Loapness  and  the  Earle  of  Morton  was  that  the 
Earle  of  Orkney,  being  forfaulted,  this  deed  behoved  to  fall  of  consequence.  But  the  truth  is  the 
Earle  was  never  forfeited,  for  King  James  6  tooke  a  right  to  a  private  debt  resting  by  the  Earle  to 
ane  Sir  John  Amotte,  and  upon  that  right  seized  the  Earl's  Estate  ;  but  though  he  had  been  for- 
feited, yet  that  deed  being  done  so  long  before,  and  being  a  very  advantageous  bargaine  for  the  E.,  and 
Mr  William  and  his  successors  having  still  to  this  day  retained  the  possession  of  a  part,  surely  the 
principal  summe  and  unpayed  (oi  rents  will  be  a  debt  affecting  the  Earl's  estate,  in  whose  ever  hands 
it  be.  As  I  said  before,  the  E.  did  by  open  force  dispossess  Adame  Moodie  of  the  Lands  of  Loapness 
and  Ryssay,  but  allowed  him  still  to  possess  the  Lands  of  Brims  and  three  halfpeunie  land  in  Osmond- 
wall,  but  all  these,  according  to  the  prices  as  they  are  fixed  and  restricted  in  the  contract,  does 
amount  to  49  lb.  Scots  yearly,  so  that  there  must  be  a  great  deal  of  @  rents  resting,  which,  with  the 
prinll.  summ,  will  amount  to  a  larse  summe.  These  lands  of  Dowvray,  which  the  Earle  gott,  were 
by  him  disponed  to  the  Laird  of  Murkle,  who  married  his  daughter,  and  in  that  familie  they  still 
continue,  and  as  Murkle,  now  Earl  of  Caithness,  lately  told  me,  are  worth  800  merks  yearly,  as  good 
rent  as  within  that  shyre,"  etc.,  etc. 

This  letter  was  addressed  to  Captain  Jairies  Moodie  of  H.M.S.  Southampton — Moodie's 
first  command.  His  next  was  the  Breda,  a  seventy-ton  ship.  In  1708,  in  the  St.  George, 
ninety  guns  and  700  men,  he  relieved  Denia.  For  this  he  received  a  coat  of  augmentation  of 
arms  and  other  honours.  In  1711,  with  the  Torbay,  he  formed  one  of  a  squadron  sent  to 
attack  Quebec,  but  the  expedition  failed  from  want  of  chai-ts  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Soon  after 
this  he  retired,  and  lived  for  a  time  in  London.  On  the  27th  October  1713,  he  was  elected  a 
Baron  of  the  Stewartry  and  Member  of  Parliament  for  the  County.  The  electing  barons  were 
Capt.  James  Moodie,  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  John  Stuart  of  Brugh,  William  Ballenden 
of  Stenness,  Patrick  Graeme  of  Grsemeshall,  and  Samuel  Urquhart  of  Lopness. 

His  first  wife  was  a  daughter  of  the  Earl  of  Morton,  but  the  children  all  died  before  his 
second  marriage.  He  married,  second,  Christian  Crawford  of  Kerse,  relict  of  William 
Ballenden  of  Stenness,  a  woman  of  great  force  of  character.  Their  only  son,  Benjamin,  was 
born  at  Aikerness,  the  mansion  of  the  Ballendens. 

*  Annual  rent  or  interest. 


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VICTOBIA  STKEET.  825 

After  the  tragic  death  of  her  husband  in  Kirkwall  Broad  Street,  Mrs  Moodie  managed 
the  estate  during  her  son's  minority,  and  she  ruled  with  a  rod  of  iron.  The  poor  minister  of 
Walls,  according  to  his  own  account,  had  not  a  dog's  life  with  her.  He  could  not  get  his 
stipend  from  her,  and  as  she  would  not  allow  him  to  send  off  a  boat  on  his  own  account,  nor 
to  put  a  letter  on  board  any  boat  which  might  be  going  to  the  Mainland,  he  could  only  by 
stealth  and  at  long  intervals  communicate  with  his  presbytery.  If  this  reverend  court  sum- 
moned the  Lady  of  Walls  before  it,  the  probability  was  that  she  took  no  notice  of  the  summons, 
or  if  she  did,  it  was  to  send  a  letter  expressing  her  opinion  of  the  Presbytery  of  Cairston 
general^,  and  her  own  parish  minister  in  particular,  in  terms  strange  to  clerical  eyes  and  ears. 

But  Lady  Melsetter's  management  of  the  estate  did  not  give  complete  satisfaction  to  her 
son,  Benjamin,  when  he  came  to  the  years  of  discretion.  He  expostulated,  and  she  felt 
aggrieved.    To  a  proposal  for  a  meeting  at  the  Manse  of  Evie,  she  writes  :— 

"  Yours  I  received  just  now,  and  am  Heartly  Sorry  to  hear  of  vour  being  Indisposed  ;  the  weather 
is  soe  very  bad,  it  is  not  in  mv  power  to  come  to  Mr  Mowat's  ;  yrior  I  hope  you'l  be  soe  good  as  come 
over  here  and  take  a  Share  of  my  Denner,  when  I  hope  we  may  Agree  matters  to  the  Satisfaction  of 
of  us  both. — I  am,  till  meeting,  Dr.  Ben,  Your  affectenat  Moyr.,  tho'  more  Injured, 

Ghbistiane  Crawford." 

This  was  in  1746.  The  management  of  the  Stenness  estate  she  had  committed  to  her 
daughter,  with  the  result  that  two  years  before  this,  Miss  Ballenden  had  to  apply  to  William 
Sinclair  of  Freswick  for  means  to  defend  herself  in  an  action  at  law  raised  against  her  by  her 
irrepressible  mother.  The  young  Laird  of  Melsetter,  however,  had  a  full  share  of  his  mother's 
will  and  of  his  father's  coolness,  afid  ^hen  he  came  of  age  he  placed  the  factorship  in  the 
hands  of  Malcolm  Groat  of  Warse,  writer  in  Kirkwall. 

Lady  Melsetter  long  continued  to  draw  her  pension  as  widow  of  Captain  Moodie  : — 

**  Kirkwall,  the  Seventeenth  day  of  Aprile  one  thousand  Seven  hundred  and  fourty-nine  years. — 
This  Deponent,  Christiana  Moodie,  voluntarly  maketh  Oath  That  i^e  Continues  still  the  widow  of 
Captain  James  Moodie,  Senr. ,  Late  Commander  of  Her  Majesty's  Ship  the  Prince  George,  and  that 
her  Circumstance  in  point  of  Fortune  remains  Confined  within  the  Limitations  under  which  she  was 
first  admitted  to  the  Benefite  of  the  Charity  Established  for  the  Relief  of  Widows  of  commission  and 
warrand  officers  of  His  Majesty's  navay. 

(Signed)        Christianb  Moodie. 

Andrew  Mitch ibll,  his  Maj'tie's  Sheri£f  for  Orkney  &  Zetland. 

Jo.  Yule,  Minr. 

William  Manson,  Elder." 

A  letter  from  Captain  Benjamin  Moodie  to  Mr  Groat,  his  factor  in  Melsetter,  dated 
London,  November  1745,  shows  the  state  of  the  country  at  the  time  and  gives  us  an  insight 
into  the  writer's  start  in  life  as  a  soldier  • — 

"  Dr.  Sir,— The  misfortunate  state  things  have  been  in  all  Scotland  over  since  I  left  you,  and  the 
uncertain  Life  I  have  myself  ledd,  has  alone  prevented  me  from  attempting  to  send  a  Letter  to  you 
till  now  that,  by  the  Highlanders'  removeaU  from  Edinr.  and  yrabouts.  Correspondence  will  go  on 
Easier.  You  may  be  assured  that  had  not  that  been  the  Case,  and  that  all  oyrs,  as  well  as  me, 
cared  not  for  writing  on  any  business  in  those  times,  I  would  not  have  omitted  enquireing  for  you  in 
hopes  to  have  the  best  accounts  of  you  in  return,  which  ever  shall  give  me  Satisfaction,  while  I  con- 
tinue in  the  opinion  you  have  given  me  of  you.  I  got  to  Tinmouth  in  14  days  after  parting,  whence 
posting  to  Ecfinr.,  found  all  in  Confusion.  I  thought  happily  to  have  ended  my  Lawsuites  there 
beforei  went  away,  but  that  was  simplv  impossible.  I  waited  in  hopes  that  in  a  Little  time  troubles 
would  cease,  but  upon  General  Cope's  defeat,  I  was  obliged  to  abscond  in  the  Country  till  a  proper 
opportunity  offered  of  Repairing  to  my  post ;  and  Tho'  I  am  too  apprehensive  my  affairs  in  other 

1>laces  may  suffer,  yet  providence  was  gocKl  in  makelng  me  hitt  the  time,  for  if  I  had  been  3  or  4  dajrs 
onger  awav,  my  affair  here  had  been  to  no  Effect.  Tho'  all  this  is  quite  opposite  to  the  necessary 
and  resonable  Schemes  I  projected  when  I  left  you,  viz.,  to  Ending  oyr  afairs  and  have  ym  in  regu- 
larity e'er  I  left  Scotland  ;  yet,  as  things  did  cast  up,  they  were  not  to  be  accomplished,  and  I  behouved 


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326  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

to  leave  them  as  they  were  and  repair  here,  otberways  loose  myself  exceediDglv,  as  you'll  see  by  the 
least  reflection.  Now  is  a  time  when  no  officer  can  be  permitted  to  be  from  his  post  that  has  been 
even  long  at  Duty,  which  I  have  not ;  and  if  I  was,  litfcle  could  be  done  in  business  in  our  Country 
till  all  this  Dismall  Sceme  be  over  ;  so  that  I  must  be  contented  to  submitt  to  my  Duty  and  must  go 
in  my  turn.  I  have  got  different  orders  again  and  again  within  these  few  days  now  to  go  wt.  a 
Detachmt.  on  board  a  Ship  of  the  North  Coast,  and  aeain  on  board  of  the  Mercury,  a  new  20  Gun 
ship  at  Liverpooll,  which  last,  as  1  at  present  see,  I  believe  I  will  in  a  few  days  repair  to,  and  then 
God  knows  where  They  may  be  ordered  to,  tho*  I  hope  for  the  best,  and  would  hope  to  be  relived 
how  soon  things  are  quiet,  so  as  I  might  settle  my  affairs  at  home  ;  but  If  it  should  happen  that  I  be 
any  time  out,  It  must  give  me  |min  to  think  how  my  affairs  are  mannaged  when  in  the  nands  of  one 
not  Capable  of  much  action.  However,  I  have,  thinking  it  the  most  advisible  Scheme,  and  as  I  am 
not  sure  how  long  I  may  be  here,  taken  the  opportunitv,  while  I  have  it,  of  WTiting  to  Andrew  Ross, 
begging  that  he  will  take  account  what  Donald  Smith  has  been  since  I  left  him,  and  that  he'll  from 
this  term  take  the  Care  of  my  business  upon  him,  and  to  call  him  or  any  man  he  places  under  him  to 
an  accot.  for  any  little  time  I  may  be  away,  which  I  will  be  thankful!  and  reward  him  as  the  thing 
can  allow  of,  for  I  have  little  hopes  in  Donald's  management,  especially  when  I  make  no  doubt  but 
there  are  who  will  endeavour  to  impose  on  his  weakness.  Dr.  Sir,  I  hope  you'll  be  so  friendly  as  give 
me  a  Circumstantiall  Accot.  of  what  he  has  been  doing  to  your  knowleage  since  I  saw  you,  and  how 
things  in  particular  has  been  carried  on.  I  am  afi*aid  the  Scene  will  be  as  usual,  if  no  worse ;  how- 
ever, I  shall  waite  patiently  till  I  see.  My  comeing  into  the  army,  you  know,  was  with  the  view  of 
Repairing  my  Little  fortune,  and  not  to  neglect  it ;  and  had  the  times  allowed  me  Settle  it  duely 
before  I  came  away,  I  would  be  in  the  fair  way  of  accomplishing  my  end  j^roposed  ;  but  as  things  are 
now,  I  am  a  little  at  a  Stand  what  to  think,  yet  I  cannot  mend  it  or,  as  I  said  before,  get  home  for  some 
time,  unless  something  casts  up  I  am  yet  uncertain  of,  and  must,  while  these  Connisions  Subsist  in 
the  Kingdom,  lay  aside  all  thoughts  but  of  my  duty  and  of  the  commands  that  I  receive.  I  desire 
you'll  give  me  an  answer  how  soon  it  is  possible,  and  give  me  a  full  detaill  of  the  manners,  politicks, 
and  mannagement  of  the  place  since  I  left  it ;  think  I  am  now  in  the  greatest  hurry,  otherways  would 
not  have  dealt  so  much  in  ye  Genii.,  which  will,  I  hope,  induce  you  the  rather  to  be  the  more  parti- 
cular in  every  branch  of  them  that  falls  under  your  observation.  I  had  almost  forgot  telling  you  de 
Langr  absolutely  refuses  to  pay  my  last  bill,  and  writes  an  impertinent  Letter  to  me  and  to  Mr  Ross, 
who  he  serves  in  that  same  sauce.  I  have  write  him  again,  but  had  no  Answer.  So  Hay  has  lost 
his  business  by  too  warm  a  side  to  the  Pretender's  interest,  yet  has  transmitted  me  the  state  of  his 
accots. ,  which  are  reasonable  and  honest ;  what  are  discharged  by  my  money  was  in  his  hands,  for  the 
rest  of  what  he  has  drawn  a  bill  on  London.  I  conclude  in  assuring  you,  if  ever  it  lies  in  my  power,  I 
shall  convince  you,  as  I  hope  to  Do  all  mankind,  that  I  shall  to  my  last  breath  allways  have  a  Gratefull 
resentment  to  those  I  believe  to  be  my  friends  and  well-wishers,  and  that  I  desire  to  be,  as  I  am  now, 
Dr.  Sir,  Your  aflft.  Friend  and  humle.  Servt." 

Captain  Hoodie's  first  duty  after  CuUoden  was  to  wreak  Hanoverian  vengeance  on  the 
Orcadian  Jacobites.  Opinions  differ  as  to  the  manner  in  which  Moodie  carried  out  his  com- 
mission. The  Royalists  say  that  while  he  burned  the  houses  of  the  leading  adherents  of  the 
Pretender,  he  showed  all  the  clemency  he  could  to  those  whom  he  was  sent  to  punish.  The 
Jacobites  hold  that  he  and  Andrew  Ross  used  this  commission  to  feed  fat  their  private 
grudges. 

Captain  Moodie's  grcinddaughter,  Henrietta,  married  Robert  Heddle  of  Cletts,  and  their 
offspring  are  now  the  Moodie- Heddles  of  Melsetter.* 

In  1699,  the  house  of  Douglas  of  Egilshay  belonged  to  John  Loutit,  merchant,  from  whom 
it  wa«  acquired  by  James  Kaa.  The  lane  forming  the  northern  boundary,  which  had  been 
known  as  the  School  Wynd,  was  then  called  **  the  Baxter's  Close,"  a  name  conveying  the  fact 
that  somewhere  in  it  a  bakehouse  had  been  built.  In  1749,  Robert  Kaa  sold  the  house  to 
James  Newgair,  skipper,  whom  we  have  seen  adding  a  prop  to  the  "Sailors'  Loft"  in  the 
Cathedral.  Three  years  later,  Newgair  sold  it  to  John  Baikie,  "brother  german  to  James 
Baikie  of  Tankemess,"  who  at  the  same  time  bought  from  Captain  Benjamin  Moodie  his 
house  next  door.  John  Baikie  had  thus  the  houses  of  those  quarrelsome  neighbours,  William 
Moodie  of  Melsetter  and  Alexander  Douglas  of  Spynie,  and  a  succeeding  John  Baikie  de- 
molished them  both  in  1832,  erecting  on  the  site  a  commodious  dwelling,  which  has  since 

*  Since  the  above  was  written,  Melsetter  has  been  purchased  by  Thomas  Middlemore,  Esq. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  327 

become  the  property  of  the  National  Bank  of  Scotland,  and  is  used  as  that  company's  business 
premises. 

Captain  John  Baikie,  RN.,  the  first  agent  of  the  National  Bank  in  Kirkwall,  had  an 
interesting  career.  He  was  bom  in  1787,  and  joined  the  Lynx,  sloop-of-war,  31st  October 
1800,  serving  for  over  two  years  under  Captains  Alexander  Skene  and  John  Willoughby 
Marshall  on  the  North  Sea  station.  From  February  1803,  as  midshipman  and  master's  mate 
on  board  the  Lapwing,  18  guns,  the  Barfleur,  98,  and  the  Camilla  and  Amiable,  frigates,  he 
was  on  the  Newfoundland  and  home  stations.  In  February  1807,  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
Lieutenant,  he  joined  the  M^estic,  74,  the  flagship  of  Admiral  Russel.  In  1810,  on  board  the 
Dictator,  64,  he  was  employed  conducting  convoys  through  the  Great  Belt.  On  the  25th  of 
March  1812,  he  joined  the  Gloucester,  the  flagship  of  Admiral  Farrier,  and  shortly  afterwards 
was  engaged  in  escorting  a  convoy  of  merchantmen  to  the  West  Indies  and  transporting  the 
90th  Regiment  to  Quebec.  In  1814  he  retired.  His  promotion  to  the  rank  of  commander, 
with  the  title  of  Captain,  came  forty  years  later,  his  commission  reaching  Kirkwall  in 
1854. 

The  navy  of  his  youth  was  the  navy  described  by  Captain  Marryat — the  days  of  hemp 
cables  and  hand-wrought  windlasses,  when  the  topsails  of  a  first-class  ship  of  the  line  would 
cover  nearly  half  an  acre  of  ground,  and  the  reefing  of  them  in  a  dark,  stormy  night  meant 
heavy  labour  and  considerable  danger.  It  was  the  hard-swearing  days,  when  an  order  to  a 
subordinate  could  scarcely  be  given  without  an  accompanying  oath,  and  bullying  oppression 
was  considered  essential  to  the  maintenance  of  discipline.  Through  this  furnace  Captain 
Baikie  passed,  and  was  purified  by  the  fire,  retiring,  at  the  age  of  twenty-seven,  a  finished 
seaman  and  a  courteous  gentleman. 

It  was  in  1825  that  the  Directors  of  the  National  Bank  opened  a  branch  in  Kirkwall,  and 
appointed  Captain  Baikie  agent.  This  was  the  first  banking  business  established  here,  though 
before  this  time  there  were  merchants  in  the  town  who  received  deposits  for  some  of  the 
southern  banks.  The  first  office  of  the  National  Bank  was  in  the  house  across  the  street,  the 
old  sub-dean's  manse. 

In  1832,  the  original  premises  being  found  too  small  for  the  business,  the  present  com- 
modious house  was  built. 

In  his  new  command  he  was  remarkably  kind  to  the  youths  under  his  training,  and  those 
of  them  who  remain  speak  of  the  old  gentleman  with  something  of  filial  regard.  One  anni- 
versary the  Captain  always  celebrated— the  "  Glorious  First  of  June."  On  the  1st  of  June 
1794,  Lord  Howe  had  his  great  victory  over  the  French  fleet  off  Brest.  He  had  with  him 
twenty-six  sail  of  the  line  and  five  frigates,  and  while  he  had  been  in  the  Atlantic  for  some 
weeks  on  the  outlook  for  the  enemy,  he  had  been  baffled  by  foggy  weather.  The  country  was 
getting  anxious  about  his  movements,  and  when  tbey  heard  of  his  victory,  the  enthusiasm 
was  tremendous.  In  those  steamless  days  news  travelled  slowly,  and  it  took  the  Admiral's 
despatches  from  the  1st  to  the  10th  of  June  to  reach  London.  On  the  evening  of  the  10th  the 
Earl  of  Chatham  aimounced  the  victory  at  the  Opera  House,  and  the  excitement  was  tre- 
mendous. The  audience  insisted  on  having  '*  God  Save  the  King "  and  "  Rule  Britannia  " 
sung  by  the  opera  company,  and  observing  the  leading  star  in  one  of  the  boxes,  she  was 
obliged  to  go  down  to  the  stage  and  take  part  in  a  second  performance  of  the  songs.  The 
Duke  of  Clarence  carried  the  news  to  Covent  Garden,  and  Lord  Mulgrave  to  Drury  Lane,  and 
the  managers  of  both  theatres  announced  the  victory  from  the  stage  amid  frantic  demonstra- 
tions of  loyalty. 

How  the  news  was  received  in  Kirkwall  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that,  though  John 
Baikie  was  a  boy  of  seven  at  the  time,  the  enthusiasm  roused  in  him  then  stuck  to  him 


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328  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

throughout  the  whole  of  his  long  life.  He  died  in  1875,  aged  eighty-eight  years.  Of  his 
family  of  two  sons  and  two  daughters,  one  daughter,  Eleanor  Edmeston,  survived  him. 

Captain  Baikie's  son,  William,  joined  the  navy  as  doctor.  In  1854  he  got  the  command 
of  an  expedition  to  explore  the  rivers  Niger  and  Tsadda.  The  Pleiad,  an  iron  fore-and-aft 
schooner  of  260  tons,  with  auxiliary  steam  power,  was  built  at  Birkenhead  for  this  special 
service.  In  1866  he  published  a  "Narrative"  of  the  voyage,  full  of  the  most  varied  and 
interesting  information.  A  good  deal  of  the  character  of  the  man  is  shown  in  a  single  sentence 
introducing  his  book  :—^  If  it  serves  in  any  degree  to  excite  a  warmer  feeling  towards  the  ill- 
treated  African,  to  claim  a  small  degree  of  attention  for  rich  but  neglected  regions,  or  to 
stimulate  further  enquiries  and  explorations,  the  writer  will  consider  his  labours  not  to  have 
been  altogether  in  vain.'* 

When  home  at  this  time,  Dr  Baikie  found  Freemasonry  in  Kirkwall  in  a  sad  state  of 
decay,  and  being  an  enthusiast  in  the  craft,  he  instilled  new  life  into  the  Lodge.  The 
meetings  were  then  held  in  the  old  Town  Hall,  and  there,  under  his  mastership,  many  of  the 
leading  men  in  Orkney  were  initiated  into  the  mysteries  of  the  order. 

In  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  the  first  house  south  from  the  National  Bank 
belonged  to  Patrick  Prince,  whose  rental  in  Kirkwall  amounted  in  all  to  £142.  The  north 
part,  "  under  a  sclaitt  roofe,**  was  let  to  Thomas  Louttit  of  Lyking,  merchant,  Kirkwall,  who 
in  1692  bought  the  whole  double  tenement.  The  Lairi  of  Lyking  married  Marjorie,  daughter 
of  James  Traill  of  Westove. 

Thomas  Louttit  was  Provost  of  Kirkwall  in  1694.  During  his  year  of  office  he  attended 
only  one  meeting  of  the  Council,  but  at  that  meeting  good  work  was  done.  "  The  Magistrats 
and  Counsell  present  ordaines  the  haill  Inhabitants  and  residenters  upon  the  broad  streit  that 
carries  their  Muck  and  maks  ane  Midding  yrof  att  the  school  yaitt  to  caus  remove  the  samen 
Betwixt  and  Tuesday  nixt,  under  the  pain  of  sevin  pound  Scoats,  and  discharges  all  and 
everie  one  residing  yr  or  within  the  Brugh  to  lay  any  Mucke  or  ashes  upon  the  street  in  tyme 


comeing  under  the  Lyke  penaltie,  and  ordaines  Intimation  heirof  to  be  made,  that  non 
pretend  Ignorance."  This  is  another  instance  of  the  filthy  condition  of  the  town  in  the  olden 
time.  But  Kirkwall  was  no  worse  than  its  neighbours,  and  waa  certainly  in  much  better 
condition  than  Edinburgh.  Long  after  the  date  of  Provost  Louttit*s  sanitary  regulation  the 
belated  foot  passenger  on  the  streets  of  the  metropolis  was  nightly  startled  by  the  shout  <rf 
"  Gardy  loo."  This  was  the  warning  that  a  malodorous  bucket  was  about  to  be  emptied  from 
one  of  the  high  windows  overhead,  and  as  sound  travels  somewhat  faster  than  the  falling 
contents  of  a  pail,  the  wayfarer  might  possibly  be  able  to  save  himself  by  hustling  into  a 
doorway. 

Provost  Louttit's  daughter,  Isabel,  married  George  Traill,  Chamberlain  of  the  Earldom — 
the  first  Traill  of  Hobbister— and  became  the  ancestress  of  the  Traills  of  Hobbister  and 
Rattar. 

Lyking  had  been  in  the  possession  of  the  Louttits  from  before  1600.  The  last  Louttit  of 
Lyking  had  two  daughters.  One  of  them  married  a  Houiston.  Somewhere  about  1820  the 
Hourstons  sold  the  estate  to  the  late  James  Robertson,  whose  son  is  now  proprietor. 

Louttit's  house  in  Kirkwall  afterwards  belonged  to  Colonel  Thomas  Balfour  of  Elwick, 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  329 

from  whom  it  was  acquired  by  James  Scarth  in  1796.  Scarth  turned  part  of  it  into  business 
premises,  his  shop  opening  on  the  street  through  the  east  giible.  Mr  Scarth's  career  well 
illustrates  the  certainty  with  which  care  and  attention  to  business  leads  to  competency.  He 
and  another  youth  left  Harray  for  Kirkwall  to  seek  their  fortunes.  Scarth  got  a  situation, 
attended  to  his  work,  and  after  a  time  started  business  for  himself,  and  succeeded.  One 
evening  a  visitor  came  through  the  shop  into  the  parlour,  where  the  proprietor  was  seated 
toasting  his  toes,  smoking  a  long  pipe,  and  occasionally  refreshing  himself  with  a  sip  from  a 
jug  by  his  side.  Turning  round,  he  saw  the  companion  who  so  long  before  had  tramped  into 
Kirkwall  with  him,  looking  as  though  he  had  been  on  the  tramp  ever  since.  Seeing  that  his 
old  friend  eyed  the  jug,  Mr  Scarth  said — "  Yes,  George,  you  may  have  a  drink " ;  and,  in 
Scottish  fashion,  first  tasting  the  liquor  to  show  that  it  was  honest,  he  passed  it  to  his  friend. 
George  took  a  drouthy  swig,  but  suddenly  stopping  in  surprise  and  horror,  shouted,  "  Water, 
by  the  Lord  !"  then  added  in  wrath—"  It's  no  wonder,  James  Scarth,  that  you're  a  rich  man." 

It  was  here  that  the  Union  Bank  in  Kirkwall  had  its  inception,  for  Mr  Scarth  took  in 
and  transmitted  deposits  for  the  Edinburgh  house  of  Sir  William  Forbes  <k  Company. 

From  the  Scarths  the  house  was  purchased  by  the  late  Dr  Stewart.  The  Doctor's 
ancestors  had  long  held  property  in  the  Laverock,  but  on  the  other  side  of  the  street.  In 
executing  some  repairs  upon  his  house,  Dr  Stewart  brought  over  from  near  his  ancestral  home 
and  put  up  over  his  front  door  an  old  carved  stone.    But  the  initials  on  it  do  not  refer  to  the 


^ ^iP' '^^  ■   *  ■:  ^.^'^^'^iv^i  ■ '  ;-^*.^f  /  v*. r 


^^ 


;n4 


Carved  Stone,  5  Victoria  Street. 

Stewart  family ;  they  are  those  of  Andrew  Strang  and  Elspeth  Richan— Mrs  Strang— with 
1695,  the  date  of  some  building  operations  on  what  is  now  probably  Captain  Johnston's 
property. 

The  property  south  of  Louttit  of  Lyking's  house,  "of  old  pertaining  to  the  stouk  or 
prebendrie  of  St.  John,"  had  belonged  to  Patrick  Murray  of  Woodwick,  son  of  Thomas 
Murray,  burgess  of  Kirkwall,  and  Clara  Murray,  his  wife. 

It  would  seem  that  the  old  burgess  had  the  faculty  of  making  money,  and  that  his  son  had 
quite  a  talent  for  spending  it.  He  married  Elspeth  Swentoun,  daughter  of  the  Archdean. 
In  March  1629,  he  and  his  spouse  borrow  from  James  Baikie  £1146  ;  and  in  October  of  the 
same  year,  he  grants  obligation  at  Skaill,  in  Sandwick,  to  Adam  Ballenden,  younger  of 
Stenness,  and  Anna  Graham,  his  wife,  for  £893  6s  8d. 

He  had  bought  Damsay  and  a  bit  of  land  in  Grimbister  from  Hew  Halcro  of  Aikers,  and 
for  "  a  great  sum  of  money  "  he  sold  these  to  his  brother-in-law.* 

♦  Reg.  8l8t  May  1632. 

2u 


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KIRKWALL  m  THE  ORKNEYS. 

In  the  circumstances  it  is  not  surprising  that  Woodwick  got  another  proprietor,  David 
M'Lelland.  This  man  first  appears  in  Orkney  as  "  servitor  "  to  Mr  John  Dick,  who  acted  as 
joint-sheriff  with  his  tether,  Sir  William  Dick  of  Braid.  His  business,  while  in  the  service  of 
the  Dicks,  was  chiefly  the  advancing  of  money  on  mortgage.  After  a  time,  trading  on  his 
own  capital,  he  became  wealthy  and  the  owner  of  a  considerable  landed  estate.  In  1659  he 
sold  the  island  of  Wyre  to  Hugh  Craigie  of  Gairsay. 

In  1677,  Murray  of  Woodwick's  tenement  in  the  Laverock  belonged  to  the  heirs  of 
William  Spence,  merchant.  It  is  then  described  as  "  ane  tenement,  ane  pt.  yrof  under  ane 
sclat  roofe,  p'ntlie  possest  by  Hugh  Linklater,  with  four  small  houses  under  theack  ruifes, 
togidder  with  ane  foir  house  to  ye  street,  under  theack  roofe." 

Spence's  son,  George,  of  Overscapa,  was  ap^iointed,  1676,  by  Andrew,  Bishop  of  Orkney, 
to  the  office  of  Sub-Commissary  under  James  Murray  of  Pennyland. 

In  1683,  George  Spence,  late  Bailie,  and  Marjorie  Halcrow,  his  spouse,  were  sued  by 
Patrick  Murray  for  apprentice  fees  of  their  son,  George,  who  had  been  indentured  to  Murray 
in  1679.  This  George  was  afterwards  Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall,  and  was  succeeded  in  that 
office  by  his  son,  William. 

Andrew  Dick  of  Wormisdale  got  possession  of  a  part  of  the  property  of  Spence's  heirs, 
and  sold  it  to  John  MTherson,  wright,  who  disijosed  of  it  to  a  number  of  purchasers. 

George  Kendall,  steward  of  a  trading  vessel  belonging  to  Leith,  put  up  a  house  next  to 
that  of  Louttit  of  Lykiug.  At  the  end  of  the  last  century  the  probability  is  that  the  only 
Ijcith  traders  carrying  stewards  were  the  famous  London  smacks,  the  precursors  of  the  steam- 
boats of  the  London  and  Edinburgh  Steam  Shipping  Conij>any. 

Next  to  Ilendall,  MTherson's  son,  Andrew,  cabinetmaker,  built,  and  beyond  him,  Robert 
M*Kay  and  Margaret  Mowat,  his  wife. 

A  portion  of  Murray  of  Woodwick's  tenement  of  land  was  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Hugh 
Stalker,  who  died  in  1815,  having  been  minister  of  the  Second  Charge  in  the  Cathedral  for 
twenty-one  years. 

Mr  Stalker  was  licensed  by  the  Presbytery  of  Linlithgow  in  1774,*  and  after  having  been 
a  probationer  for  twenty  years,  was  presented  to  this  living  by  the  Magistrates  and  Town 
Council. 

In  the  northern  portion  of  the  old  Woodwick  holding  was  established  the  fii*st  printing 
business  in  Orkney.  In  1798,  Magnus  Anderson  brought  a  i)ractical  bookbinder  from  Edin- 
burgh, and  set  up  a  binding  shop  here.  He  purchased  Bibles  and  Psalm-books  in  the  sheet, 
bound  them  up,  and  got  a  very  free  sale  for  them  at  the  Lammas  Fair.  His  son,  James, 
letirned  binding  in  this  vshop,  but  he  went  off  as  a  boy  and  got  work  in  Heriot's  printing  office, 
Leith.  He  returned  to  Kirkwall,  and  found  a  hand-press  in  the  house  of  Mr  Traill  of  Wood- 
wick, where  he  printed,  among  other  things,  a  Catalogue  of  the  Orkney  Library.  James,  son 
of  the  printer,  went  to  Edinburgh  to  perfect  himself  in  the  same  work.  On  a  visit  to  Kirkwall 
in  1854,  the  young  man  was  induced  by  his  father,  backed  by  the  recommendations  of  Captain 
Baikie  and  Mr  John  Cursiter,  to  start  a  newsi)aper.  The  Orcadian  still  belongs  to  the  family, 
being  now  owned  and  edited  by  Mr  W.  R.  Mackintosh,  James  Anderson's  son-in-law. 

The  southern  portion  of  the  Woodwick  tenement  belonged  in  1677  to  James  Sinclair, 
merchant.  His  daughter,  Beatrix,  married  John  Boynd,  and  the  house  went  with  her.  John 
was  an  elder  in  the  kirk,  and  in  1698  he  borrowed  100  merks  from  the  Session  at  the  usual 
rate  of  interest,  John  Richan  being  cautioner.  Years  passed  and  the  debt  remained  unpaid, 
:When,  on  the  6th  December  1710,  "  the  Session,  understanding  that  John  Boynd  is  on  a  sick 
bed,  appoints  the  Tresr.  to  speak  Uy  him  anent  the  payment  or  further  securitie  of  the  100 

♦  Faati. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  331 

merks.''  *'  The'Tre'sr.'  reports  (7th  Dec.)  that  he  went  to  John  Bbynd  to  apeak  to  him,  but 
death  being  so  near  approaching,  was  not  in  a  condition  to  speak  about  worldlie  business  > 
however,'  he  spoak  io  his  wife,  who  promised  to  give  satisfaction  that  way."  And  poor 
BttEitrix  Boyhd  satisfied  the  Session  by  giving  up  her  house,  which  remained  the  property  of 
^e  Church  for  sixty-six  years.  The  advertisement  of  its  sale  in  1776  is  somewhat  peculiar :— ^ 
"  Know  all  men  by  these  presents,  I,  Mr  John  Yule,  minister  of  the  gospell  at  Kirkll.,  first 
in  order,  did  cause  George  Hutchison,  one  of  the  Town  officers,  publish  through  the  whole 
Burgh  of  Kirkll.,  6y  plate  and  sptjon"  that  this  tenement  of  land  and  its  pertinents,  "  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Kirk  Session,  were  to  be  exposed  to  public  roup  upon  the  7th  day  of  May  currt.,. 
within  the  dwelling-house  of  Andrew  Liddell,  shoemr."  The  rattle  of  an  empty  spoon  in  an 
empty  plate  veiy  well  illustrates  the  chronic  hunger  of  the  Church. 

Liddell  was  kirk  treasurer,  and  his  house  formed  the  south-west  corner  of  Albert  Street. 

Magnus  Laughton  was  the  purchaser,  and  his  grandson,  Magnus  Laugh  ton,  shifmiaster,. 
sold  it  to  David  Erskine,  1808.  Erskine  also  bought  the  next  tenement  southward  from 
Donald  Calder,  to  whom  it  had  come  through  his  marriage  with  Margaret  M*Kay,  only  child 
of  Robert  M*Kay,  merchant,  and  Margaret  Mowat,  his  wife.  These  houses  Erskine  cleared 
away,  and  built  one  large  tenement  on  their  site.  The  doorway  of  M'Kay's  house,  with  the 
initials  of  Robert  M*Kay  and  Margaret  Mowat,  svnd  date  1743,  found  a  place  in  the  front  of 
the  new  building.  A  later  doorway  has  since  been  inserted,  having  a  carved  lintel,  which 
makes,  with  the  above,  an  incongruous  mixture  of  dates. 

Erskine's  own  dwelling-house,  which  had  formerly  belonged  to  Robert  Pottinger,  lay 
immediately  south  from  this  new  building.  Erskine  had  other  properties  in  the  town,  and  he 
gave  his  wife,  Elizabeth  Fea,  life-rent  of  the  whole. 

South  past  Pottinger's  tenement,  occupied  by  David  Erskine,  standing  with  its  gable  to 
the  street,  and  now*  in  process  of  demolition,  is  or  was  part  of  what  appears  in  the  rentals 
as  "  Arthur  Murray^s  Great  Lodging."  Before  Murray's  time,  however,  it  was  the  abode  of 
Matthew  Mowbray.  In  1619,  Mowbray  appears  as  lending  £300  to  Mr  John  Gardyne^ 
minister  of  Stronsay  and  Eday.  Of  this  clergyman  we  learnt  that  he  deserted  his  charge^ 
1635,  '*  though  the  most  notable  congregation  in  the  land,  quhairunto  many  strangers  did 
resort."  He  was  permitted  by  Bishop  Graham  to  set  his  stipend  in  tack  for  six  years,  "  to  the 
great  prejudice  of  his  successor."  This  notable  congregation  had  in  1627  a  communion  roll  of 
667,  and  the  stipend  was  200  merks,  four  chalders  here,  and  six  meills  meal. 

In  1629,  Mowbray  is  designated  "servitor  to  Mr  John  Dick,"  and  in  1640,  as  "sometyme 
chalmerlane  depute  of  Orkney,  now  ane  of  the  baillies  of  Kirkwall." 

Mowbray's  immediate  predecessor  in  this  tenement,  or  one  on  the  same  site,  was  Edward 
Scollay,  and  on  the  putt  stones  are  the  initials  "  P.  S.,"  over  an  anchor,  indicating  a  Scollay 
more  ancient  than  Edward. 

Mowbray  was  a  wealthy  man,  and  it  seems  probable  that  he  erected  the  Great  Lodging^ 
retaining,  as  was  a  common  practice,  the  old  putt  stones.  But  the  builder,  whoever  he  was^ 
took  stones  carved  with  initials  from  the  Bishop's  Palace,  and  inserting  them  into  his  own 
walls,  gave  rise  to  the  tradition  that  here  Bishop  Maxwell  entertained  James  Y.  in  1540. 
But  sculptures  referring  to  Bishop  Reid  also  were  found  in  the  portion  of  the  house 
demolished  a  few  years  ago.  Now  it  is  obvious  that  it  was  beyond  the  politeness  of  even 
the  courtly  Maxwell  to  commemorate  the  virtues  of  his  successor.  One  of  these  stones- 
bore  Maxwell's  monogram.  Carefully  examined,  however,  after  its  removal,  it  was  seen 
that  this  lintel  had  not  been  hewn  for  the  place  in  which  it  was  found,  but  that  it  had  been 
ahortiened  to  fit  it  for  its  new  situation.    Entirely  convincing,  however,  is  the  silence  of  the 

*Junel90ai  t  Fasti. 


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332  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Records  of  Sasine  concerning  any  house  in  the  Laverock  or  elsewhere  belonging  ''  of  old  "  to 
Bishop  Maxwell. 

Mowbray  had,  among  other  properties  in  Kirkwall,  the  old  Hall  of  Banks,  which  after- 
wards belonged  to  his  son,  John,  who  resided  in  Scalloway.  His  eldest  son,  Harie,  was  doing 
a  money  business  in  1647,  but  he  too  seems  to  have  left  Kirkwall.  His  daughter,  Margaret, 
was  the  second  wife  of  the  Rev.  Walter  Stewart,  of  South  Ronaldshay  and  Burray. 


Stone  with  Bishup  Maxwell's  Monogram. 

John  Edmondston,  who  is  mentioned  as  joint-proprietor  of  this  house  in  1677,  forms  a 
-connecting  link  between  Mowbray  and  Murray,  and  was  related  to  both.  He  succeeded  the 
former  as  Chamberlain-Depute,  and  was  in  office  in  1653.  He  also  was  a  bailie  of  Kirkwall. 
Thomas  Brown  records  the  marriage  of  one  of  his  daughters,  thus  : — "  20th  March  1681,  Being 
Sabbath,  about  7  at  night,  Alexander  Stewart  of  Massetter  was  married  to  Margaret  Edmon- 
5tone,  2nd  Daughter  to  John  Edmondston,  sometyme  Bailie  in  Kirkwall."  The  Diarist,  in  a 
previous  entry,  tells  us  that  the  first  child,  a  daughter,  was  born  14th  January  1677.  For  the 
offence  Stewart  paid  £12  to  the  Treasurer  of  St.  Magnus,  and  the  Session  dealt  leniently  with 
the  young  man.  This  would  indicate  that  for  four  years  something,  perhaps  the  opposition  of 
parents,  prevented  the  marriage.  At  this  time  Stewart  lived  in  the  next  house  south  from 
Edmondston,  a  house  afterwards  bought  by  Arthur  Murray. 

The  Stewarts  of  Massater  were  the  descendants  of  Walter  Stewart,  minister  of  South 
KonaWshay  and  Burray,  and  Margaret  Mowbray,  his  second  wife.  Mr  Stewart  was  trans- 
lated from  Aberduur,  Fife,  in  1636,  and  died,  1652.* 

The  most  famous  of  the  Massater  family  was  George,  midshipman  on  board  H.M.S. 
Bounty  at  the  time  of  the  Mutiny  in  1789.  Captain  Bligh,  commander  of  the  ship,  says  : — 
**  He  was  a  young  man  of  creditable  jmrents  in  the  Orkneys,  at  which  place,  on  the  return  of 
the  Resolution  from  the  South  Seas  in  1780,  we  received  so  many  civilities  that,  on  that 
account  only,  I  should  have  taken  him  with  me  ;  but,  independently  of  this  recommendation, 
he  was  a  seaman,  and  had  alwciys  bprne  a  good  character." 

Byron's  description  in  "  The  Island  "  is  interesting  : — 

**  And  who  is  he  ?  the  bhie-e^'ed  northern  child 
Of  isles  more  known  to  men,  but  scarce  less  wild  ; 
The  fair-haired  ofl'spring  of  the  Hebrides, 
Where  roars  the  Pentlaud  with  its  whirling  seas, 
Rock'd  in  his  cradle  by  the  soaring  wind, 
The  tempest-born  in  body  and  in  mind  ; 
Placed  in  the  Arab's  clime,  he  would  have  been 
As  bold  a  rover  as  the  sands  have  seen  ; 

♦  Fwti. 


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VICTORIA  STREET. 


333 


Fix'd  upon  Chili's  shore  a  proud  cacique  ; 
On  Bella's  mountains  a  rebellious  Greek  ; 
Bom  in  a  tent,  perhaps  a  Tamerlane  ; 
Bred  to  a  throne,  perhaps  unfit  to  reign. 
But  these  are  visions  ;  say  what  was  he  here  ? 
A  blooming  boy,  a  truant  mutineer/' 

Stewart  did  not  leave  the  Bounty  with  Captain  Bligh,  but  chose  the  alternative  oflfered 
to  those  who  refused  to  join  the  mutineers,  "  to  be  carried  to  Otaheite  in  irons,  and 
remain  there."  After  a  year  and  a  half  among  the  natives,  H.M.S  Pandora  having 
arrived,  Stewart  and  his  friend,  Heywood,  immediately  went  on  board  and  reported  them- 
selves. They  were  at  once  treated  as  mutineers,  and  were  kept  in  irons  for  five  months.  The 
Pandora  got  on  a  coral  reef  in  Endeavour  Straits,  and  having  fallen  off,  went  down,  taking 
Stewart  and  thirty-four  others  with  her. 


Old  Houses  in  Victoria  Street,  called  Bishop  Maxwell's  Residence. 

Arthur  Murray,  joint-proprietor  with  Edmondston,  was  the  public-spirited  burgess  who 
celebrated  the  birth  of  a  child  in  his  old  age  by  a  douceur  of  £200  to  the  Session  of  Kirkwall, 
which  was  devoted  to  the  building  of  a  guard-house  on  the  Kirk  Green. 

After  Edraondston's  death,  Murray  became  sole  proprietor.  His  "  Great  Lodging"  was  a 
place  of  importance  in  the  municipal  government  of  the  ancient  burgh.  When  a  culprit  was 
whipped  through  the  town,  a  halt  was  always  made  in  front  of  Arthur  Murray's  Great 
Lodging  for  a  fresh  application  of  the  "  cat." 

Murray  had  other  properties  in  town.  In  June  1690,  he  gave  to  his  daughter,  Isobel,  "  two 
tenements  of  land  lyand  contiguous  together,"  "  having  the  great  house  or  Lodging  of  the 
^d  Arthur  north,  the  other  tenement  belonging  to  him  south."    Thus  he  had  certainly  three, 


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.1^34  KIRKWALL  IN.  THE  OBKNEYS. 

perhaps  four  tenements,  fronting  the  street,  all  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  sands  and  oyce  of 
Kirkwall.  A  house  at  the  Sfiore  also  belonged  to  him.  In  acquiring  wealth,  he  seems  to 
have  been  somewhat  unscrupulous,  reaping  where  he  had  not  sown,  gathering  where  he  had 
not  strawed,  and  claiming  houses  which  he  had  neither  built  nor  bought.  An  indictment 
against  him  runs  thus  : — 

'*  It.  imprimis,  ye  ar  indyted  for  forBablie  intruding  yourself  in  the  said  house  in  presence  and 
contempt  bff  the  magistrats,  authoretys  yn  present. 

2.  **  Albo  for  despysing  and  upbrading  the  magistrats  in  declaring  to  their  faces  that  who  wold, 
who  wold  not,  and  in  despyt  off  them  and  ther  authoritie,  ye  wold  posers  and  keep  posessiou  and 
abyde  in  the  said  house  (Because  formerlie  and  hitherto  he  had  onlie  appeared  for  his  oroyr.  and  on 
his  accompt,  but  now  he  resolved  and  wold  run  the  busines  as  his  aun  interest),  and  yt  ye  wold  kno 
who  doorst  disposes  you  or  put  you  out  of  the  sd.  house. 

3.  **  Also  giving  ane  lie  to  the  pro  vest  in  name  off  the  rest  of  the  magistrats,  reproaching  yni  wt. 
falshood,  aledging  and  affirming  to  yr  faces  most  groslio,  thaye  had  mead  ane  false  ack,  being  alse 
false  ane  ack  as  ever  was  mead  m  the  world. 

4.  *'  Also  ye  ar  indyted  for  vour  most  desperatlie  and  bittarlie  and  loudlie  cursins  the  comone 
tressurrie  of  the  sd.  bourghe,  and  imprecating  against  the  same  by  sayeing  the  divell,  the  divell,  the 
divell  burn  ther  tressurrie. 

5.  **  Also  for  your  grose  and  unmanerlie  and  disrespectible  cariage  and  disobediance  given  to  your 
aun  maffistrats,  and  for  your  most  unworthie  and  opprobriouse,  base,  and  unpregnant  languidge, 
untoleraole  and  unworthie  to  be  rehearst. 

6.  **  for  your  boasting,  braging,  and  thi'eatning  yt  if  ye  wer  pout  out  off  the  sd.  house  that,  in 
spyt  of  qulio  wold  or  quho  wold  not,  and  in  despyt  of  all  the  magistrats  of  Kirkwall,  ye  wold  and 
sould  ry  ve  off  the  rooff  jf  the  sd.  house,  and  that  thaye  sou  Id  have  cold  lodging  that  soulu  dwell  yrin. 

7.  **  Also  for  your  man  his  beating  of  the  town's  oflScer  in  the  execution  off  his  offise,  and  yt  in 
presents  and  contempt  off  ye  sds.  magistrats." 

Possibly  the  trial  and  verdict  to  which  this  strong  indictment  was  the  introduction  may 
be  found  in  the  Sheriff-Clerk's  office,  but  it  may  be  taken  for  granted  that  the  case  went 
against  the  accused  on  every  count  of  the  libel  and  that  he  was  heavily  mulcted,  for  the 
magistrates  in  those  days  were  very  jealous  of  their  corporate  dignity.  But  this  irascible 
Arthur  was  not  only  hasty  in  his  language,  he  gave  vent  to  his  feelings  in  actions.  He  was  on 
another  occasion  taken  to  Court  for  applying  an  ell-wand  to  an  offending  customer  so  vigour- 
ously  as  to  draw  blood. 

South  from  Arthur  Murray's  property  was  the  house  of  Magnus  Taylor,  beyond  which 
was  the  house  of  Peter  Pottinger.  Possibly  the  father  and  mother  of  Magnus  Taylor  are  the 
two  whose  names  are  seen  on  a  stone  in  the  north  aisle  of  the  Cathedral  nave  : — "Ane 
honest  man,  Thomas  Taylor,  Merchant  Burgess  in  Kirkwall,  spouse  to  Janet  Pottinger,  who 
departed  the  1  of  March  1666." 

**  Corps  rest  in  Peace  into  this  worme  clay 
Till  Christ  shall  raise  thee  to  a  glorious  day." 

One  of  the  descendants  of  these  Taylors — the  late  Mr  Francis  Taylor  of  How — left  some- 
thing like  £1000  to  be  devoted  to  the  upholding  of  the  old  Cathedral. 

The  Taylors  in  the  Laverock  might  be  described  as  hereditary  weavers,  just  as  their 
neighbours,  the  Murrays,  were  rcodiners  or  shoemakers.  They  were  quietly  making  money  in 
the  days  of  the  Stewart  Earls,  and  in  1616  we  see  Peter  Tailyeour  putting  out  his  coin  to 
interest.  Magnus  Taylor  built  houses  back  from  his  own,  and  we  find  him  endowing  his 
children  and  grandchildren  with  these  in  his  lifetime. 

South  from  the  Taylors*  houses  was  the  Pottingers'  land.  Occasionally  these  neighbours 
assisted  each  other  in  odd  bits  of  business.  The  following  stands  in  the  Court-books,  under 
date  27th'  February  1627,  without  any  explanation  whatever  : — 


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VICTORIA  STTREET.  335 

**  Be  it  kend  till  all  men  be  thir  ptnt.  Ires.,  me,  Edward  Pottinger,  IndweUar  in  Kirkwall,  forss^ 
mickle  as  Alexr.  Tailyour,  Indwellar  in  the  Lavorack  of  Kirkwall,  for  the  sowme  of  fyve  hnndreth 
merkis  monev,  payit  and  delyverit  to  me  be  the  Ryt  Honorable  Harie  Stewart  in  Carloagie,  Shref 
depute  in  Orknay,  in  name  and  behalf  of  Mr  Jon.  Finlasone  of  Olweis  (?),  in  satisfactione  and  awyth- 
ment  of  the  slaughter  of  um(jL  manss  Pottinger,  Merchant,  Indwellar  in  Kirkwall,  m^  brother,  qlk 
Bowme  of  five  hnndreth  merkis  monev  forsaid  the  sd.  Alexr.  band  and  obleist  him,  his  airts,  ezrs.,  and 
assigiikiyis  intromitleris  With  .hi§  jj^idis  and  geir  tind/sucoessdns  to  his'landis  and  heretages  qtsomever, 
thankfullie  to  content,  pay,  iand  dely ver  in  manner  underwritten,  viz. :— To  John  Pottinger,  son  to 
the  said  umqle.  manss,  laulie.  begottm  betwix  him  and  Cathren  Craisie,  his  first  spouis,  the  sowme  of 
ane  hnndreth  alevin  poundiB  tua  shillinffis  and  tua  penneyis ;  and  to  Elspeth  Tailyour,  relict  of  the  sd. 
umql.  Manss,  Marable,  and  Marioan  Pottingeris,  thair  laul.  baimes,  the  sowme  of  tua  hundreth 
twentie  tua  poundis  four  shillingis  four  penneyis,  betwix  and  the  feast  and  term  of  Martimei?  nix  to 
come,"  etc.,  etc. 

This  payment  of  blood-wite  for  the  killing  of  a  brother  reads  like  an  incident  of  Norse 
times  ;  and  it  would  almost  show  that  Orcadians  regarded  manslaughter  with  much  com- 
placency down  to  a  comparatively  recent  period.  They  were  fatalists,  one  and  all,  and  the 
phrase,  **  it  beed  to  be,"  often  aflTorded  a  dreary  consolation  under  severe  bereavement.  But 
we  have  corroborative  evidence  that  their  criminal  code  recognised  more  heinous  offences 
even  than  murder.  In  the  presbytery  records,  under  date  lat  May  1667,  we  have  a  minute  : — 
"Robert  Bellie,  ane  murderer,  being  called  and  not  compeiring,  ordaines  Mr  William 
Davidson  to  cause  cite  him,  pro  2  do,  to  the  nixt  meeting."  As  Mr  Davidson  was  minister  of 
Birsay  and  Harray,  the  criminal  must  have  been  a  west  mainland  man  ;  and  on  June  6,  after 
a,  month  had  elapsed,  "  Mr  William  Davidson  reported  that  Mr  Robert  Bellie,  murderer,  in  his 
parish,  could  not  compeire  to  this  dyet  becaus  of  his  sicknesse  ;  bee  is  ordained  to  be  chairged 
to  the  nixt  meeting " — another  month^s  reprieve.  Now,  had  the  victim  been  a  neighbour's 
sheep,  no  medical  or  clerical  certificate  could  have  saved  the  infirm  Bellie  from  a  journey  to 
Kirkwall,  with  the  probability  that  his  pilgrimage  would  end  in  a  walk  up  the  hangman's 
ladder. 

Among  such  neighbours  as  the  Murrays  and  Taylors  and  Pottingers  it  was  natural  that 
there  should  be  inter-marriages,  and,  no  doubt,  most  of  these  marriages  were  happy.  But 
one  was  a  failure.  Isobel  Murray  married  Bailie  Pottinger,  whose  business  sometiines  took 
him  away  from  home.  On  one  occasion  he  was  away  for  quite  a  year.  On  the  night  of  his 
return,  Mrs  Pottinger  left  her  husband's  bed,  and  in  another  room,  alone  and  in  darkness, 
gave  birth  to  a  child.  Then  came  worrying  examinations  before  Session  and  Presbytery,  with 
remits  from  each  to  the  other,  during  which  the  unhappy  woman  was  dangled  before  the 
public  gaze.  This  at  length  became  intolerable,  and  Isobel  Murray,  wealthy  and  no  doubt 
personally  attractive,  took  flight  from  Stromness  in  an  English  vessel,  and  was  never  again 
«een  in  Orkney.    Her  cousin,  Miss  Stewart  of  Ma.ssater,  was  one  of  the  witnesses  in  the  case. 

South  from  Bailie  Pottinger  there  was,  in  1677,  a  large  yard.  This  had  belonged  to 
Andrew  Ellis,  from  whom  it  passed  to  Andrew  Strang,  and  so  successively  to  his  brother, 
David,  and  his  nephew,  Sir  Robert  Strange.  On  a  part  of  this  yard  Strange  built  two  houses ; 
and  in  1790  the  one  next  the  street  was  occupied  by  Edward  Keith,  Sheriff  Clerk,  and  that  in 
the  rear  by  Thomas  Urcjuhart,  Postmaster.* 

Postal  work  in  Kirkwall  at  the  close  of  the  la.st  century  was,  as  a  rule,  by  no  means 
exciting.  But  one  evening,  in  making  up  the  mails,  Thomas  Urquhart  found  a  letter  with  an 
enclosure,  which  he  felt  curious  to  examine.  Taking  it  upstairs  to  his  wife,  Margaret  Keith, 
probably  daughter  or  sister  of  the  Sheriff  Clerk,  their  next  door  neighbour,  the  letter  was 

*  Urquhart's  house  was  demolished  a  number  of  years  ago,  but  its  site  is  occupied  by  the  west- 
most  house  on  the  south  side  of  the  close  numbered  53  Victoria  Street,  now  belonging  to  Mr  William 
Halcrow  and  others. 


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836  KIRKWALL  IN   THK  ORKNEYS. 

opened  and  in  it  was  found  a  five-pound  note.  This,  Mrs  Urquhart,  with  the  most  foolish 
imprudence,  gave  to  the  servant  girl  to  take  out  for  change.  There  were  no  banks  in  Kirk- 
wall, and  the  messenger  went  from  shop  to  shop  till  she  came  to  the  foot  of  what  is  now 
Bridge  Street,  and  here  she  presented  the  troublesome  thing  to  Andrew  Smith,  merchant,  the 
actual  sender  of  the  note.  He  asked  where  the  girl  bad  got  it,  and  on  being  told  that  it  was 
from  Mrs  Urquhart,  he  said  he  would  brtng  up  the  change  himself  in  a  minute  or  two.  He 
had  probably  kept  the  number  of  the  note ;  at  all  events  he  was  able  to  identify  it  as  his 
property,  and  going  at  once  to  the  Procurator-Fiscal,  he  had  Urquhart  arrested  and  lodged 
in  jail.  The  case  was  proved,  the  postmaster  was  hanged,  and  down  to  the  middle  of  the 
present  century  his  ghost  continued  to  haunt  the  room  in  which  the  fatal  letter  was  opened. 

This  is  the  local  tradition,  but  the  facts  as  they  appear  in  the  Justiciary  Court  books  are 
somewhat  different,  and  show  a  long  series  of  peculations.  '*  Thomas  Urquhart,  late  deputy 
Post  Master  in  the  town  of  Kirkwall  and  County  of  Orkney,  and  David  Urquhart,  son  of  the 
said  Thomas  Urquhart,  both  present  prisoners  in  the  Tolbuith  of  Edinburgh,  pannels,  indicted 
at  the  instance  of  Robert  Dundas,  Esq.  of  Arniston,  His  Majesty's  Advocate,  of  the  crimes  of 
Theft  from  the  Post  Office  and  falsehood  and  forgery,"  etc.,  etc.  The  indictment  then  stated 
the  following  specific  charges  : — 

1.  In  1794,  sometime  before  August,  James  Fea,  seaman,  R.N.,  sent  his  father,  James 
Fea,  in  Rothiesholm  in  Stronsay,  a  letter  containing  a  guinea  and  a  half,  *'  which  letter  never 
was  received  by  the  said  James  Fea." 

2.  In  August  or  later  in  the  year  1794,  "another  letter  written  by  the  said  James  Fea, 
and  directed  to  the  said  James  Fea,  his  father,  containing  inclosed  a  guinea  in  Gold  or  Bank 
note  for  that  sum,"  never  reached  Stronsay,  "  the  said  letter,  in  consequence  of  a  search  made 
by  Robert  Nicolson,  Esq.,  Sheriff-Substitute  of  the  County  of  Orkney,  having  afterwards  been 
discovered  lying  opened  in  the  Escrutoire  of  you,  the  said  Thomas  Urquhart." 

3.  May  Griffen,  residing  in  Half  Moon  Court,  Wapping,  wrote  a  "letter  directed  to 
Stephen  Muir,  Benziecoat,  Sanday,  to  the  care  of  John  Linklater,  boatman  in  Kirkwall ;  she 
inclosed  in  it  an  order  for  five  pounds  five  shillings  sterling,  dated  Money  Letter  Office, 
General  Post  Office,  November  16,  1795.  Signed,  Js.  Eele,  payable  at  sight  by  the  Post 
Master  of  Kirkwall  to  the  person  named  in  the  letter  of  advice." 

This  order  the  Postmaster,  forging  a  receipt,  transmitted  to  the  General  Post  Office 
in  Edinburgh,  as  a  part  of  the  balance  due  by  him  to  the  postal  revenue.  "  And  you,  the 
said  Thomas  Urquhart,  having  since  become  afraid  lest  the  said  acts  of  theft  and  false- 
hood and  forgery  should  be  discovered,  did  write  a  letter,  dated  Edinburgh  Jail,  7th 
October  1796,  directed  to  John  Traill,  Esq.,  at  Scar,  Sanday,  requesting  him  to  pay  to  the 
said  Stephen  Muir  the  said  five  pounds  five  shillings  sterling  on  account  of  you,  the  said 
Thomas  Urquhart." 

4.  In  January  1796,  James  Smith,  on  board  H.M.S.  Vengeance,  then  at  Barbadoes,  sent 
his  father,  James  Smith,  Breckwell,  in  Westray,  a  letter  containing  a  bank  note  for  five 
pounds.  As  the  North  Isles  had  then  no  mail  service,  this  was  addressed  to  the  care  of 
James  Smith  in  Crantit.  Later  in  the  same  year  the  dutiful  son  sent  another  five-pound  note 
to  his  father,  directing  it  this  time  to  his  brother-in-law,  John  Rendall,  master  of  the  sloop 
Anne,  of  Kirkwall.  These  letters  were  never  delivered,  and  Urquhart  was  accused  of  having 
kept  them  for  the  money  they  contained. 

5.  William  Rutherford,  spirit  dealer,  Perth,  at  the  desire  of  Anne  Walter,  his  wife,  sent 
his  father-in-law,  Alexander  Walter,  in  Shapinsay,  a  letter  containing  a  guinea  note.  Walter 
had  been  expecting  this  letter,  and  he  got  the  Rev.  George  Barry  to  call  on  James  ^Sainland, 
Wright,  Kirkwall,  to  whom  it  was  to  be  addressed.    The  minister  went  from  the  wright  to  the 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  337 

postmaster,  who,  "having  been  alarmed  lest  the  said  act  of  Theft  should  be  discovered," 
alleged  that  the  letter  had  possibly  "been  accidentally  destroyed  by  one  of  bis  children," 
and  gave  Mr  Barry  a  guinea,  to  be  given  by  him  to  Alexander  Walter. 

6.  Andrew  Smith,  Kirkwall,  sent  William  Maclean,  merchant,  South  Bridge,  Edinburgh, 
£30  in  five-pound  notes — five  of  the  Bank  of  Scotland  and  one  of  Sir  William  Forbes  <k  Co. 
The  money  was  in  a  sealed  letter,  and  was  put  by  the  sender  himself  into  the  postal  slip  in 
Kirkwall.  On  account  of  its  non-arrival,  Maclean  wrote  to  Smith,  who  at  once  went  to  the 
Post  Office.  Urquhart  maintained  that  everything  posted  had  been  sent,  but  by  next  mail  he 
forwarded  to  Maclean  a  letter,  over  the  forged  signature  of  Andrew  Smith,  containing  the 
identical  notes. 

7.  Thomas  Spence,  a  seaman,  then  confined  in  the  Royal  Hospital,  Haslar,  sent  to  his 
mother,  Eupham  Louttit>  in  July  1796,  a  letter  containing  a  guinea.  This  letter,  which  was 
addressed  "  To  Effie  Luted,  in  the  Oald  place,  neare  Kirkwall,  Orkneys,  North  Brittain,"  was 
never  delivered. 

8.  William  Robertson,  a  cwporal  in  the  North  Lowland  Regiment  of  Fencibles,  quartered 
at  Carrick-on-Shannon,  sent  two  guineas  to  Isobel  Millar,  his  wife,  which  never  reached  the 
poor  ivoman.  The  address  was  somewhat  elaborate,  but  by  no  means  vague—"  Soldier^s 
letter.— Carrick-on-Shannon,  7th  Nov.  1796.— Tho.  Balfour,  Coll.,  N.  L.  Fencibles,  to  Esa- 
bellica  Millar,  in  Kirkwall,  to  the  care  of  Captant  Baky,  in  Kirkwall,  Orkney,  Scotland,  by 
North  Britand." 

With  the  trouble  about  Smith's  remittance,  matters  became  critical,  and  Urquhart  sent 
his  son  off  privately  that  the  flight  of  the  boy  might  remove  suspicion  from  the  man.  Had 
the  youth  escaped  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  he  would  have  borne  all  the  odium  of  these 
crimes,  and  the  postmaster,  in  his  parental  distress,  would  have  won  the  sympathies  of  those 
whom  he  had  duped.  But  David  was  apprehended  in  London  and  brought  to  trial  along 
with  his  father.  In  court,  Thomas  Urquhart  tried  to  continue  this  farce.  "  The  Indictment 
being  read  over  to  the  Pannels  in  Open  Court,  and  they  being  severally  inteiTogated,  there- 
upon The  Pannel,  Thomas  Urqiihart,  answered  that  he  was  Not  Guilty,  And  the  Pannel^ 
David  Urquhart,  answered  that  he  was  guilty  of  the  Articles  charged  in  the  indictment 
against  him.'' 

Urquhart  was  tried  upon  three  counts  only,  and  of  these  the  charge  concerning  James 
Fea  was  found  not  proven  ;  that  concerning  Mary  Griffen,  proven  by  a  majority ;  and  that 
concerning  Rutherford's  letter  to  Walter,  proven  unanimously.  David  Urquhart  was  found 
guilty  on  his  own  confession,  but,  on  account  of  his  youth,  he  was  "  earnestly  recommended 
to  mercy." 

Sentence  was  pronounced  that  they  "  be  carried  from  the  bar  to  the  Tolbooth  of  Edin- 
burgh, therein  to  be  detained  till  Wednesday  the  eighteenth  day  of  October  next,  and  upon 
that  day  to  be  taken  furth  of  the  said  Tolbooth  to  the  place  fixed  upon  by  the  Magistrates  of 
Edinburgh  as  a  Common  Place  of  Execution,  and  then  and  there,  between  the  hours  of  two 
and  four  o'clock  afternoon,  to  be  hanged  by  the  necks,  by  the  hands  of  the  Common  execu- 
tioner, upon  a  Gibbet,  untill  they  be  dead,  and  ordain  all  their  movable  goods  and  gear  to  be 
escheat  and  inbrought  to  his  Majesty's  use,  which  is  pronounced  for  doom." 

From  the  evidence  of  some  of  the  witnesses  at  the  trial,  it  would  appear  that  Urquhart 
was  a  Morayshire  man. 

The  jury,  on  account  of  his  youth,  recommended  David  Urquhart  to  His  Majesty's 
mercy ;  and,  from  another  source,*  we  learn  that  the  jury's  recommendation  received  due 
attention ; — "  David  Urquhart,  a  boy  of  sixteen,  was  convicted  on  4th  September  1797  of 
*  Hume  Commentaries  on  the  Law  of  Scotland,  vol.  L,  p.  32. 

2X 


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338  KIRKWALL   IN  TME  ORKNEYS. 

stealing  money  out  of  letters  and  falsifying  money  orders  in  them,  and  had  sentence  of  death, 
along  with  his  father,  a  deputy  postmaster,  whose  influence  and  bad  example  had  seduced 
him.  On  that  ground  the  jury  very  properly  recommended  him  to  mercy  ;  and  he  obtained 
a  free  pardon,** 

In  1805,  "  James  Strange,  Esq.,  late  Banker  in  London,  and  M.P.  for  the  town  of  Oak- 
ham pton,  now  residing  at  Madras,  in  the  East  Indies,"  succeeded  his  father,  "Sir  Robert 
Strange,  Knight,  in  all  and  whole  that  tenement  of  land,  with  yards,  office  houses,"  etc.,  "  as 
the  same  were  lately  possessed  by  Edward  Keith,  Sheriff  Clerk,  and  Thomas  Urquhart,  Post 
Master  at  Kirkwall,  and  are  now  possessed  by  Margaret  Keith,  relict  of  said  Thomas  Urquhart ; 
William  Borwick,  merchant ;  and  William  Matches,  sailor." 

Robert  Dundas,  Commissioner  for  James  Strange,  sold  this  property  to  David  Erskine, 
who  upon  its  security  borrowed  £343  from  the  Rev.  Walter  Traill.  In  1817,  Mr  Traill 
obtained  "decreet  of  adjudication"  before  the  Court  of  Session  against  David  Erskine, 
merchant.  "  The  court  adjudged  from  the  said  David,  vUtr  alia^^^  the  above  tenement.  But 
the  easy  creditor  took  no  further  steps  in  the  matter  ;  and  in  1826,  when  the  interest  had  run 
up  to  £280,  George  Veitch,  Esq.,  W.S.,  took  over  the  property  as  trustee  for  Mr  TrailPs  eldest 
son,  Thomas,  then  in  Canada. 

David  Erskine  cleared  off  one  debt  by  assuming  another,  and  he  reduced  Mr  Traill's  bond 
by  borrowing  £550  from  James  Spence,  Commercial  Bank.  With  this  debt  on  it,  he  left  his 
property  to  his  brother,  James,  in  1828.  In  his  latter  days,  a  blind  old  man,  James  Erskine 
lived  in  a  house  on  the  Ay  re  which  his  brother  had  built.  The  advance  of  £550  was  never 
cleared,  and  on  James  Erskine's  death,  the  banker  had  to  make  what  he  could  of  the  estate. 
An  illegitimate  daughter  was  so  ill-advised  as  to  take  the  Commercial  Bank  into  the  Court  of 
Se.ssic)ii  by  way  of  securing  to  herself  some  of  her  father's  imaginary  wealth. 

This  family,  the  descendants  of  Robert  Erskine,  N.P.,  who  came  to  Kirkwall  in  1669  a 
fugitive  from  the  discipline  of  College  Kirk,  Edinburgh,  had  done  much  public  work  in  the 
burgh,  and  James  was  the  last  of  the  line. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  close,  now  57  Victoria  Street,  was  the  house  of  Mr  David  Mar- 
wick,  merchant,  and  here  was  spent  the  boyhood  of  his  distinguished  nephew.  Sir  James 
Marwick.  James  attended  Mr  Copland's  school  in  Kirkwall,  afterwards  going  to  Edinburgh 
to  attend  the  law  classes.  Having  proved  himself  a  good  business  man,  he  was  appointed 
Town  Clerk  of  that  city,  whence  he  was  translated  to  Glasgow  on  much  more  advantageous 
terms.  For  his  excellent  public  work  he  received  the  honour  of  knighthood  m  1888.  Sir 
Jauies  is  regarded  as  the  highest  living  authority  in  all  municipal  matters.  His  interest  in 
Kirkwall  remains  unabated.  The  active  part  he  took  in  the  foundation  of  the  Orkney  and 
Zetland  Association  is  known  to  all  the  original 
members  of  the  society,  as  the  earlier  meetings 
were  held  in  his  private  dwelling-house  in 
Edinburgh. 

In  1677,  with  a  yard  and  peat-brae  between, 
the  next  house  southward  was  that  of  John 
Caldell,  Bailie  of  Kirkwall.  Caldell  seems  to 
have  been  regarded  by  his  fellow-townsmen  as  a  very  judicious  person.  He  was  an  elder  of 
the  kirk  ;  and  in  those  days,  when  the  Session  would  have  a  finger  in  every  pie,  he  was  often 
entrusted  with  the  preliminary  examination  of  very  delicate  cases.  He  was  also  a  prosperous 
merchant,  and  the  inventory  of  his  goods  and  gear  shows  a  considerable  amount  of  silver 
plate.  In  the  Valuation  Roll  of  1677,  this  house,  which  had  lately  been  repaired,  was  entered 
at  £24  of  rent,  and  was  assessed  on  £18. 


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VICTOEIA  STREET.  339 

Bailie  Caldell  died,  April  1677,  and  two  years  afterwards  his  widow,  Elspeth  Chalmers, 
married  Mr  James  Arbuthnott.  Of  this  man  little  is  known  beyond  what  is  recorded  by 
Thomas  Brown.  Mrs  Caldell  evidently  had  the  life-rent  of  her  late  husband's  house,  and 
here,  10th  June  1682,  "  Mr  James  Arbuthnott  fell  over  the  stair  of  his  dwelling."  His  fall 
was  not  fatal,  however,  for  we  find  that  in  1684  he  contracted  a  second  marriage,  and  that 
he  died  in  1687.  It  is  difficult  to  know  what  had  brought  this  person  to  Orkney.  He  was, 
as  his  title  "Mr"  shows^^  a  University  man,  for  Brown  is  most  particular  in  this  respect. 
Possibly  he  may  have  been  '*  Doctor"  in  the  Grammar  School.  The  Records  of  Sasine  show 
that  he  held  property  elsewhere  in  Kirkwall. 

On  Mrs  CaJdell's  death,  in  1683,  this  house  came  into  the  possession  of  Anna  Linay,  "  air 
of  Oliver  Linay,  and  Pat.  Murray,  Not.  Pub.,  her  spouse."  It  was  "  possest  and  inhabited  by 
themselves  and  James  Murray  of  Pennyland,  their  tenant."  From  Anna  Linay  and  her 
husband  it  passed  to  their  son,  Francis.  In  1709,  the  Town  Council  purchased  from  Marion 
Ritchie,  widow  of  Francis  Murray,  her  life-rent  interest  in  the  Tolbooth  at  the  foot  of  the 
Strynd,  and,  as  part  of  the  bargain,  exempted  her  from  the  payment  of  cess  on  this  house, 
£1  16s  Scots  yearly. 

South  from  Bailie  Caldell's  house  was  that  of  Patrick  Craigie  of  Waisdale,  Provost  of 
Kirkwall.  In  1677  this  house,  now  represented  by  Nos.  79  and  81  Victoria  Street,  terminated 
the  Laverock  on  the  west  side. 

From  the  foot  of  Tankemess  Lane,  northward  and  southward,  were  the  "Sands"  of 
Elirkwall,  the  old  ))layground  of  the  boys  of  the  Grammar  School.  Above  Provost  Craigie's 
house  these  became  the  "  Broad  Sands." 

Provost  Craigie  had  a  stirring  and  chequered  magisterial  career.     His  story,  with  all  the 
details  which  the  burgh  records  can  furnish,  has  been  given  to  the  public  by  a  recent  writer.* 
William  Cmigie  had  been  a  successful  merchant,  and 
his  business  improved  and  extended  in  the  hands  of 
his  son,  Patrick.    In  1649,  Patrick  Craigie  was  elected 
Bailie,  and  the  following  year  Montrose  took  up  his 


quarters  in  the  Earl's  Palace.    The  heroic  endeavour         1^  C^— ^^     (jp^  © 

to  re-establish  the  Stewart  dynasty  was  easily  sup-  ^ 

pressed,  but,  as  a  result  of  it,  Cromwell  felt  himself 

bound  to  pay  a  little  attention  to  Orkney.  He  sent  a  party  of  soldiers  to  Kirkwall,  and  the 
officer  in  command  ruled  the  town.  The  Town  Council  retired  in  a  body,  and  the  local  govern- 
ment, apart  from  military  rule,  was  thrown  into  the  hands  of  the  Justices  of  the  Peace.  These 
gentlemen  made  use  of  their  position  to  assess  the  burgh  for  the  support  of  the  soldiers  and 
to  let  the  rural  community  go  free.  This  state  of  matters  soon  became  intolerable,  and  in 
1664,  after  three  years  of  municipal  extinction,  the  Council  resumed  its  duties.  Royalists 
though  most  of  them  were,  they  could  not  help  seeing  that  under  the  Commonwealth  private 
rights  were  maintained  and  that  the  public  funds  were  really  devoted  to  public  purposes.  In 
these  circumstances,  they  thought  that  an  effort  should  be  made  on  behalf  of  the  burgh,  and> 
in  1658,  they  sent  Bailie  Craigie  to  Edinburgh  to  state  their  case.  From  the  instructions  they 
gave  this  Commissioner,  we  see  that  their  first  care  was  to  get  fixed  stipends  for  their 
ministers,  and  their  next  to  secure  the  upholding  of  the  fabric  of  the  Cathedral.  For  the 
latter  purpose  they  asked  no  public  money,  only  an  Act  granting  them  the  fines  of  all  the 
adulterers  in  Orkney.  **  Likwayes  you  ar  to  remember  to  present  the  condition  of  the  greit 
fabrik  of  our  Kirk,  that  is  almost  going  to  ruins  for  want  of  supplei,  qlk  formerly  was  men- 
teind  pertly  by  the  bishop  and  the  wholl  adulterers'  fyne  of  the  wholl  countrey,  which  wos 

*  W.  R.  Mackintosh. 


1'>^^t?Y^^/»tfC#^ 


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840  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

appointed  for  the  upholding  of  the  forsaid  fabrik."  This  was  quite  a  modest  request  on  the  part 
of  Kirkwall,  as  it  allowed  the  fines  for  less  heinous  immoralities  to  be  applied  locally  by  the 
several  Sessions  for  parochial  purposes.  The  Bailie  was  to  ask  for  help  to  build  a  "  prisio 
houss  "  and  to  see  about  the  quartering  of  the  soldiers,  as  '*  the  wholl  burdein  of  the  quertering 
lyeth  upon  the  toune,  and  the  countrey  free."  The  last  of  the  instructions  given  was  very 
significant.  The  Council  was  convinced  that  there  were  in  Edinburgh  some  interested 
persons  who  were  influencing  the  Government  to  the  prejudice  of  Kirkwall—**  infenderers  that 
has  been  setting  the  judges  against  us."  These  he  was  to  discover,  and,  if  possible,  prosecute  ; 
**  always  we  cannot  be  the  worse  to  know  their  names,  that  we  may  remember  them  if  they 
come  in  our  coast  heirafter."  Certainly  a  warm  reception  was  in  store  for  those  **  infenderers" 
should  they  visit  Kirkwall. 

Craigie  cheerfully  undertook  the  business,  and  had  rather  a  good  time  in  Edinburgh  for 
nearly  a  year,  all  expenses,  even  to  his  body  clothing,  being  charged  against  the  burgh.  It 
was  a  critical  time,  seeing  that  the  principal  "  infenderer  "  was  the  Earl  of  Morton.  After  the 
Restomtion,  1660,  Morton  got  the  ear  of  the  king,  and,  making  use  of  the  re-appointing  of  the 
Town  Council  in  1654,  was  able  to  convince  Charles  that  the  corporation  of  the  burgh  owed 
its  existence  to  the  authority  of  Cromwell.  Accordingly  the  Town  Council  was  interdicted 
from  exercising  any  municipal  government. 

Craigie,  now  Provost,  and  along  with  him,  the  Bailies,  Treasurer,  and  Town  Clerk,  were 
sunimontfd  to  Edinburgh  on  a  charge  of  having  disclaimed  the  just  authority  of  the  king, 
and  of  having  acknowledged  "  the  usurping  of  treacherous  and  bloixly  rebels."  After  much 
trouble  and  expense,  public  and  private,  Morton's  misrei>resentation  was  made  manifest,  the 
privileges  of  the  town  were  restored,  and  a  confirmation  of  the  charter  of  James  III.  was 
granted  by  Charles  II.  Meantime  Patrick  Craigie  had  run  up  a  bill  of  over  seven  thousand 
pounds  Scots  against  Kirkwall,  had  siiuandered  his  own  fortune,  and  his  wife,  Anne  Ballenden 
of  Stennesa,  who  had  attended  to  his  afiFairs  at  home,  having  died,  he  found  his  business 
gone  and  himself  a  ruined  man.  The  rest  is  cjuickly  told.  Debts,  some  of  which  could 
scarcely  be  explained,  and  none  of  which  could  be  paid,  landed  him  in  prison. 

In  1679,  George  Liddell  of  Hammer  had  got  decree  against  him  in  the  Court  of  Session, 
by  which  certain  lands  in  Sandwick  and  in  Holm,  with  "  All  and  Haill  the  said  Patrick 
Craigie  his  lodgeing  and  tenement  of  land,  consisting  of  ane  thatched  house  and  ane  sklaitt 
house  built  together,"  with  other  three  houses  and  a  piece  of  waste  land  in  the  Laverock, 
passed  to  the  creditor.  Craigie's  debt  to  Liddell,  principal  and  interest,  amounted  "  in  the 
haill  to  the  soume  of  seven  hundreth  seventie-five  punds  six  shilling  eight  pennies  money  of 
this  our  reallme." 

As  only  a  desperate  man  would  do,  he  determined  to  retain  possession  of  some  public 
documents  ;  and,  3rd  September  1681,  "Being  Saturday,  John  Buchanan  of  Sandside  caused 
James  Mansone,  Messengr.,  ix)ynd  the  Act  of  Parliament  from  Patrick  Craigie  of  Waisdale 
out  of  ye  Tolbooth,  and  [read  ?]  them  at  the  Cross  of  Kirkwall  about  8  in  the  morning  of  the 
said  day."*  Finally,  26th  February  1682,  "  Sabbath  morning,  abt.  7  or  thereby,  Pat.  Craigie, 
sometyme  Provost  of  Kirkwall,  depd.  this  life  in  the  Tolbooth  of  the  said  Brugh." 

The  following  letter  is  doubtless  a  fair  si)ecimen  of  the  Provost's  literary  style.  He  was 
unwell  at  the  time  of  writing,  and  he  wanted  from  Arthur  Baikie  the  loan  of  a  w^ooden  press, 
presumably  for  clarifying  home-made  fish-liver  oil : — 

**  Kirkwall,  the  (2)  off  ffebrowarrie  1667. 
**  Mowch  Honoured, — I  loins  to  cie  you  ;  if  your  aferes  can  alowe  you,  com  this  lanth.     1  wold 
gladly  have  spokin  with  you  ;  iff  my  health  and  present  condetion  off  ciekness  could  alowed  me, 

•  T.  B. 


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VICTORIA  STREET.  341 

I  wold  have  com  to  you  as  be  cometh  ;  boot  the  troweth  is,  I  am  not  as  yeat  so  recovered  that  I 
dar  heseard,  for  seing  the  aier  and  wather  cast  me  over  again  in  my  deses ;  arfor  I  howp  ye  will 
xskowes  my  boldnes  ;  boot,  if  the  Lord  be  pieced  to  spar  me  dayes  and  health,  I  schall  go  ffarder  for 
you  or  youres ;  and  I  deseyer  ye  wold  len  me  your  temer*  pres  yt  I  spaek  oflF  to  you,  for  presing 
sowm  leittell  oyell,  and  I  schall  retowrin  it  in  saeftie  again ;  not  mor,  boot  craive  love.— Mtfwch 
Honorad,  your  lowving  frind  and  Sarvant,  Patrick  Cbatoie.'* 

Jamas  Graham,  minister  of  Evie  and  Kendall,  afterwards  translated  to  Holm,  married 
Patrick  Craigie*s  daughter,  Elizabeth,  and  he  bought  the  old  house  in  the  Laverock.  He 
died  in  1721,  and  his  widow,  then  in  reduced  circumstances,  sold  the  ruins  of  her  father's 
house  to  David  Strang,  the  father  of  Sir  Robert  Strange.  Strang's  widow,  purposing  to 
rebuild,  applied  to  the  Council  for  permission  to  bring  the  wall  next  the  street  farther  forward 
than  the  old  wall  had  stood  : — 

"Kirkll.,  15th  June  1733. 

**  Unto  The  much  honoured  The  Magistrate  and  Town  Council  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  The 
Petition  of  Jean  Scollay,  Relict,  and  the  other  Representatives  of  David  Strang,  Mercht.  in  Kirkwall, 
deceast, 

'*  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  your  petitioners  are  Intending  to  rebuild  the  old  houses  lyine  in  the 
Laverock  of  Kirkwall,  that  formerly  pertained  to  the  Heirs  of  Patrick  Craigie  of  Wasdale  and  now  to 
the  Petitioners. 

**  That  one  of  the  Gavels  or  Breasts  of  the  said  Houses  Extends  it  Self  to  the  High  Street,  and  is 
bounded  on  one  Side  by  the  Houses  belonging  to  Baillie  Patrick  Traill,  one  of  your  Honours'  Number, 
and  on  the  other  Side  by  a  yeard-dyke  or  Fence  betwixt  the  Street  and  Yeard  of  your  petitioner's 
said  houses. 

"  That  the  said  houses  of  Baillie  Traill  and  Yeard  dyke  belonging  to  your  petitioners  do  both  of 
them  Face  the  high  Street,  and  do  Come  Farther  out  than  your  said  Petitioner  s  Gavel  @  mentioned 
by  about  a  foot  and  2  or  3  Inches. 

**  That  your  petitioners  do  humbly  apprehend  it  will  be  of  no  damnage  to  the  Street  That  their 
said  Gavel  lie  allowed  to  be  brought  on  in  the  same  degree  forward  with  Baillie  Traill's  house  and  the 
forsaid  Yeard  dyke  or  Fence,  especially  that  the  old  gate  or  entry  to  the  said  houses  of  your  peti- 
tioners is  and  has  been  Past  Memory  as  far  forward  to  ye  Street  as  ye  said  houses  of  Baillie  Traill. 

**  May  it  therefor  please  your  honours  to  allow  your  said  petitioners  to  rebuild  their  said  Gavel 
or  fore-part  of  their  said  houses  in  the  same  degree  forward  to  ye  Street  wt.  their  said  old  Gate  or 
Entry  and  the  houses  of  Baillie  Traill  and  their  said  yeard  dyke,  or  to  Impower  your  Dean-of -Guild 
and  his  Council  to  Inspect  the  said  houses  and  to  grant  the  said  allowance.  Jban  Scollay." 

This  was  remitted  to  the  Dean-of-Guild,  and  the  petition  was  granted. 

In  1793,  the  Town  Council  sold  to  Mr  William  Manson,  Comptroller  of  Customs,  for 
£164  sterling,  a  portion  of  the  Broad  Sands.  This  consisted  of  two  detached  pieces  on  the 
north  and  scmth  .sides  of  what  had  been  Provost  Craigie's  tenement.  At  the  time  of  the  sale 
these  were  in  the  occupancy  of  Mrs  Thuring,  daughter  and  heiress  of  James  Traill,  merchant. 
The  northern  section  measured  "  36  feet  and  upwards"  from  north  to  south,  while  the  southern 
portion  had  a  street  frontage  of  "  120  foot  of  rule,"  and  extended  to  "  the  passage  from  the 
Clay  Loan." 

Colonel  Thomas  Balfour  of  Elwick,  who  was  on  the  outlook  for  eligible  building  sites 
about  the  town,  acquired  these  plots  from  Manson,  and  got  a  charter  from  the  Council,  dated 
4th  August  1793. 

In  1801,  James  Knarston,  slater,  bought  from  the  Colonel  the  northern  portion,  now 
belonging  to  Dr  Still's  trustees.  In  1803,  Robert  Borwick  purchased  from  the  representatives 
of  Lieutenant  William  Balfour,  R.N.,  the  southern  section.  In  1809,  Borwick  sold  the  south 
part  of  his  plot  to  Oliver  Scott ;  and  Knarston,  Borwick,  and  Scott,  building  on  the  Broad 
Sands,  completed  the  w^est  side  of  the  street  up  to  Clay  Loan. 

Money-lending  in  Kirkwall  was  no  longer  the  profitable  business  which  it  had  been  in  the 
olden  time.    As  yet  there  were  no  banks  in  the  town,  but  at  the  beginning  of  the  present 

*  Timber. 


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342  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

century,  an  association,  called  the  Relief  Society  of  Kirkwall,  advanced  money  on  good 
security,  and  we  find  this  society  largely  drawn  upon  by  builders  of  new  houses.  Thus  for  a 
time  the  Relief  Society  of  Kirkwall  held  the  titles  of  a  good  many  houses  in  the  town,  and^ 
among  others,  some  of  the  buildings  on  the  Broad  Sands. 

Robert  Borwick,  who  had  purchased  his  site  from  Lieutenant  Balfour,  was  a  native  of 
Harray.    He  came  to  Kirkwall  and  established  a  straw-plaiting  business. 

At  this  time  illicit  distillation  was  going  on  all  through  the  islands,  and  the  gauger  was 
the  most  unpopular  public  officer  in  Orkney.  Borwick,  believing  that  there  was  money  to  be 
made  in  the  legitimate  business,  built  Highland  Park  Distillery,  and  quickly  found  a  market 
for  its  output.  His  son,  George,  acte4  as  his  agent  in  London,  and  after  a  time  succeeded  to 
the  business.  On  his  death  the  property  passed  to  his  brother,  James,  Secession  minister  in 
Rathillet.  The  clergyman  stopped  the  whisky  making,  and  sold  the  property  under  the  con- 
dition that  the  purchaser  should  not  use  the  premises  for  the  purposes  of  distillation.  Mr 
Sinclair,  who  bought  the  place,  adhered  to  the  letter  of  the  contract,  but  he  sold  the  distillery 
to  Mr  Macfarlane,  who  at  once  resumed  the  old  trade.  From  him  it  was  purchased  by  Mr 
Stewart,  of  Milton-Duff.  Under  the  management  of  the  present  owner,  Mr  James  Grant, 
Highland  Park  has  become  one  of  the  best-known  distilleries  in  Scotland. 

Robert  Borwick  was  Session  Clerk  to  the  first  dissenting  congregation  in  Kirkwall,  and 
his  friend  and  neighbour,  Oliver  Scott,  was  one  of  the  elders. 

Mr  Scott  was  a  weaver  and  a  successful  man,  and  when  wealth,  or  at  all  events  com- 
petence, brought  him  leisure,  he  entered  the  Town  Council,  and  rendered  valuable  service  as  a 
Magistrate. 

He  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  John,  who  carried  on  business  in  Bridge  Street  as  a  general 
merchant.  John  Scott  was  an  excellent  salesman.  On  one  occasion  a  skipper,  who  had  put 
into  Kirkwall  roads,  went  to  him  for  half-a-dozen  bone  egg-spoons,  which,  strangely  enough, 
were  not  in  stock  at  the  time.  A  neighbouring  dealer  having  asked  why  Mr  Scott  did  not 
send  to  him  in  his  difficulty,  was  answered  :— "  There  was  no  difficulty  in  the  matter  ;  I  had 
no  egg-spoons,  but  I  sold  him  half-a-dozen  ballast  shovels  instead." 

The  Reverend  Oliver  Scott,  parish  minister  of  St.  Andrews,  inherited  the  property  of  his 
father  and  grandfather. 

The  turning  of  Time's  whirligig  has  placed  another  Mr  John  Scott,  of  a  different  family, 
in  the  shop  in  Bridge  Street.  Mr  Scott's  dwelling-house  was  the  old  Commercial  Bank  of  Mr 
Speuce. 

The  street  or  road  now  known  as  the  Clay  Loan,  while  yet  without  a  name,  was  anciently 
described  as  "  the  south  loan,"  "the  common  loan,"  "  Kirkwall  loan,"  or  "  the  loan  above  the 
toune  of  Kirkwall."  The  origin  of  the  present  name  is  not  far  to  seek.  Most  of  the  old 
houses  were  put  up  without  mortar,  clay  being  used  instead.  This  lane  was  found  very 
convenient  by  builders,  who  recklessly  dug  out  their  cement  whenever  they  thought  fit.  It 
occurred  to  that  zealous  Magistrate,  Provost  Arthur  Baikie,  that  such  conduct  was,  to  say  the 
least  of  it,  irregular.  On  the  back  of  a  letter,  among  other  memoranda,  he  jotted  down  an 
item  to  bring  before  the  Council :— "  Yt.  no  claie  be  taken  of  the  loan  wt.  out  libertie."  But 
the  historic  interest  of  the  Clay  Loan  lies  in  the  fact  that  at  its  head  or  east  end  was  the 
common  place  of  execution. 

As  late  as  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  there  were  no  fewer  than  223  offences 
which  the  criminal  law  of  this  country  recognised  as  capital ;  but  in  Kirkwall  the  dcc-vth 
penalty  was  often  remitted.  Culprits  who  had  prepared  their  necks  for  the  noose  were  fre- 
quently whipped  through  the  town  and  then  banished,  "with  certification"  that  if  they 
returned  they  would  be  hanged.    Many  executions,  however,  are  recorded,  and  Thomas  Brown 


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VICTORIA   STREET.  343 

tells  of  two  within  a  month  of  each  other  :— "  Nov,  15th,  Thursday,  James  Louttit,  in  Hurso 
in  Harray,  son  to  James  Loattit,  Bailie  dept.  yr,  was  convicted  as  a  sheep-thief  by  the  assize 
of  15  persons  ;  and  upon  Friday,  16th  Nov.,  he  was  sentinced  to  be  hanged,  whilk  accordingly 
was  done  upon  Tuesday,  20th  Nov.  1683,  at  2  o'clock  in  ye  afternoon.  God  preserve  and  keep 
all  good  men  from  such  a  cursed  death."  Again,  "  20th  December,  Thursday,  Henry  Smyth, 
who  dwelt  in  Paplay,  in  the  n^rth  parochine  of  S.  Ronaldsha,  was  hanged  upon  ye  gallows  in 
the  east  loan,  above  the  town  of  Kirkwall,  for  stealing  a  wheit  sheep  belonging  to  Margaret 
Cromartie,  in  the  aforesaid  isle." 

In  November  1706,  "Arthur  Masone,  ane  notorious  theiff  and  housebreaker,"  was  taken 
"  to  the  loan  above  the  toune  of  Kirkwall,  or  commone  and  usewall  execution  place  theirof, 
betwixt  the  hours  of  two  and  thrie  in  the  afternoon,  by  the  hand  of  the  comone  hangman, 
haveing  his  hands  tyed  behind  his  back,  there  to  be  hanged  upon  ane  gibbet  or  gallows  till  he 
dyed." 

Witches  were  taken  to  the  head  of  the  Clay  Loan,  there  to  be  **  worried  at  the  stake." 
The  gallows  ladder  from  which  the  unfortunates  were  "  turned  off"  is  still  to  the  fore,  and  is 
one  of  the  sacred  relics  preserved  in  the  Cathedral.  It  is  double,  having  one  set  of  rungs  for 
the  victim  and  one  for  the  executioner. 

There  is  not  in  Scotland  at  the  present  day  a  resident  hangman,  but  in  the  days  of  old 
every  Sheriff  Court  had  among  its  permanent  official  staff  such  a  functi(mary.  On  his  death 
or  retirement  there  were  not  many  candidates  for  the  situation,  and  the  county  authorities 
were  sometimes  put  to  considerable  inconvenience.  In  1720,  John  Sinclair  of  Ulbster,  Sheriff 
of  Caithness,  had  to  arrange  for  the  execution  of  a  man,  Farquhar,  who  had  committed  a 
murder.  But  Caithness  at  the  time  had  no  hangman,  so  Sheriff  Sinclair  applied  to  the  Kirk- 
wall Magistrates  for  the  loan  of  their  artist,  Alexander  Downie.  The  Town  Council  were  very 
doubtful  Jis  to  the  safety  of  their  gallows  warden  if  he  crossed  the  ferry.  Accordingly,  they 
demanded  security  to  the  amount  of  £100  sterling  for  his  safe  conduct,  £30  Scots  and  three 
meills  malt  to  be  paid  to  Downie  for  his  work — €12  before  he  started,  and  the  balance  when 
he  finished  his  job  ;  and  on  these  terms  Downie  was  allowed  to  go. 

On  account  of  the  odium  attached  to  this  gruesome  office,  the  children  of  the  man  who 
performed  its  duties  were  ostracised  by  their  fellows,  so  that  in  this  and  other  countries  the 
post  of  executioner  often  came  to  be  hereditary.  Thus  it  was  in  Kirkwall.  Alexander 
Downie  was  public  operator  in  1720,  and,  more  than  a  century  later,  another  of  the  same 
name,  probably  a  grandson,  held  the  place.  "Kirkwall,  29  August  1812,— Rec.  from  Mr  W. 
Traill,  Treasurer  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  the  sum  of  Two  Pounds  St.  as  my  salary  as 
Hangman  of  said  Burgh  to  Lammas  1812. — Alexr.  Downie,  X  his  mark."  Again  :— "  Kirk- 
wall, 21  Augt.  1815.— Received  from  Mr  Andrew  Henderson,  Treasurer  of  the  Borrow  of 
Kirkwall,  the  sum  of  two  pound  Sterling  as  my  year's  salary  as  Hangman  from  Augt.  1814 
to  Augt.  1815.— Alexr.  Downie,  X  his  mark  G.  Sinclair,  witness."  The  last  receipt  from 
the  Town  Treasurer  is  22nd  August  1829  :— "  Paid  Alexander  Downie,  executr.,  his  salary  to 
Lammas,  £2."  If  Downie's  salary  was  small,  his  duties  were  light.  Indeed,  his  office  had 
become  a  sinecure,  as  before  the  end  of  the  last  century  the  trial  of  capital  offences  had  been 
transferred  to  the  High  Court  of  Justiciary,  and  the  execution  of  convicted  prisoners  took 
place  at  Edinburgh,  or  at  the  seat  of  a  Court  of  Assize. 


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CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  Lammas  Market. 

N  the  ancient  days  of  the  Lammas  Market,  the  live  stock  were  exposed  for  sale  on  the 
Broad  Sands.  The  horse  market  was  held  on  the  north  side  of  what  is  now  the  garden 
of  the  Balfour  Hospital. 

Meeting  about  the  middle  of  July  in  each  year,  the  Magbtrates  issued  a  proclamation 
that  the  market  would  be  opened  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  August,  and  would  continue  for 
three  days  and  no  longer.*  At  the  same  time  the  Council  invited  offers  for  the  farming  of  the 
market  dues.  If  several  offers  were  received,  the  highest  was  intimated  from  a  window  of 
the  Tolbooth,  with  the  announcement  that  higher  bids  would  still  be  taken.  In  every  case 
the  person  whose  tender  was  accepted  had  to  find  caution  for  the  fulfilment  of  his  part  of  the 
bargain.    When  no  offers  were  put  in,  two  collectors,  sworn  to  fidelity,  were  appointed. 

In  1698,  James  Tayleour  and  Harie  Tait  collected  £32  6s  2d,  while  the  Dean-of-Guild 
received  as  rent  for  stands,  £18  7s  8d. 

In  1705,  the  Council  received  no  offers,  but  from  1706,  for  a  number  of  years,  David 
Erskine  farmed  these  customs.  His  first  bargain  was  as  follows  : — "  Compeared  personally 
David  Erskyne,  merchant  in  Kirkwall,  and  offered  to  Farme  the  customes  of  the  enshewing 
Lambas  Mercat,  such  as  the  Customes  of  oxen,  kyne,  horse,  woU,  and  other  commodities  to 
be  brought  to  the  said  Mercat  Lyable  in  custome,  and  the  customes  of  the  closs  and  open 
stands  at  the  said  mercat,  and  voluntarly  offered  to  pay  therefor  the  soume  of  Fourty-Eight 
pound  Scotts  money  to  the  Thesaurer  within  eight  days  after  expyreing  of  the  said  mercat.** 
John  Richan  became  cautioner  for  him. 

In  1710,  Erskine's  offer  of  £48  Scots  changes  to  the  equivalent,  "ffour  pound  stairling.'' 
In  1712,  Thomas  Graham,  burgess  of  Kirkwall,  offered  £4  10s,  and  gave  James  Mackenzie, 
writer,  as  his  cautioner. 

In  1713,  the  Council  joined  a  lease  of  part  of  the  town  lands  to  the  setting  of  the  market 
dues.  *'  In  presence  of  the  Magistrates  and  Counsill,  compeared  sealls.,  and  made  offers  for  a 
ferme  of  the  Customes  of  the  Lambas  Mercat  and  of  the  lands  belonging  to  the  burgh.  Lying 
on  the  South  Syde  of  the  Oyse  of  Kirkwall,  viz.,  Soulisquoy,  Mudisquoy,  Pickaquoy,  Spritigoe, 
and  Walliwall ;  and  after  several  offers  made  by  the  sds.  persons,  David  Arskyne,  Mertt., 
Burgess  of  Kirkwall,  made  offer  of  the  sum  of  Thretteen  Pound  five  shillings  yearly." 

In  1716,  Erskine's  lease  having  expired,  David  Traill  farmed  the  market  dues  for  £3  lOs^ 
and  his  motive  for  offering  appeared  when  he  came  to  settle  with  the  Treasurer  ; — "  David 
Traill,  late  Baillie,  did  pay  in  to  David  Strang,  Thesaurer,  the  sum  of  twenty-three  pound 
eight  shillings  and  four  pennies  Scots,  which,  with  nine  pound  eight  shillings  Scots  due  to  the 
said  David  for  brandie,  shugar,  etc.,  furnished  at  the  Cross  upon  the  King's  Birthday,  the 
Twenty-Eight  of  May  Last,  and  Twelve  pound  Eight  shilling  Eight  pennies  also  due  to  the 

*  See  Appendix  to  this  chapter. 


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THE   LAMMAS  MARKET.  345 

said  David  Traill  as  the  Ballance  of  a  former  accompt,  makes  in  haill  fourty-five  pound  Scots 
as  the  ferme  Duty  due  for  the  saids  Customs." 

In  1717,  David  Strang  gave  £4  5s  sterling  for  the  dues  ;  1718,  David  Traill  gave  £4  10s. 

In  1719,  David  Erskine  offered  £4  sterling,  "and  the  officer  having  severall  Times  called 
at  the  window  and  none  compearing  to  offer  more,  The  Magistrates  and  Counsell  prefer  the 
sd.  David  Arskyne  to  the  ferm  of  the  sds.  Customs."    He  has  the  "  ferm  "  in  1720  for  £3  lOs. 

In  1721,  "  All  persons  being  called  frequently  at  the  window,  compeared  David  Arskyne, 
mertt.,  who  offered  five  pound  sterling,"  &c.  Next  year  he  had  the  dues  for  £4  10s  ;  and  for 
eight  years  it  was  continued  to  him  at  the  same  rent. 

In  1731,  "after  several  offers,  last  of  all  there  was  offered  for  the  same  by  David  Strang, 
Mertt.,  Kirkwall,  the  sum  of  Forty-six  pounds  Scots,  and  the  said  David  was  preferred." 

In  1732,  David  Erskine  came  forward  again  and  paid  £47.  Thus,  in  its  best  days,  the 
Market,  in  direct  cash  value,  was  only  worth  about  £5  sterling  to  the  Corporation.  To  many 
of  the  people  of  Kirkwall,  however,  it  brought  a  considerable  amount  of  money  annually. 
Certaiidy  the  retailers  of  liquor  did  literally  a  roaring  trade  at  market  time. 

The  live  stock  market  on  the  Broad  Sands  was  only  a  part,  and  the  less  important 
part,  of  the  fair.  The  Broad  Street  and  the  Kirk  Green  held  hundreds  of  "  close  and  open 
stands,"  where  commodities  of  every  description  were  exposed  for  sale.  Yet,  even  among 
these,  custom  and  the  Magistrates  established  a  systematic  arrangement.  For  instance,  the 
cloth  market  extended  from  the  round  tower  of  the  Bishop's  Palace  down  the  front  of  what  is 
now  known  as  Palace  Street.  "The  Magistrates  and  Council  appoints  the  Clerk  to  writt 
plackads  to  be  affixt  at  the  most  publick  places  of  the  Burgh,  appoynting  all  persons  who 
shall  bring  cloath,  both  linning  and  wooling  and  stuffs,  to  the  mercat,  that  they  may  bring 
the  same  to  the  church  yaird  to  the  southward  of  the  church,  below  the  little  kirk  yaird  dyke, 
nixt  to  Charles  Stewart  his  house,  which  is  the  place  appointed  for  mercat  place  of  the  said 
cloath."* 

In  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  when  the  Grammar  School  stood  on  the  Kirk 
Green,  it  was  utilised  for  market  purposes.  The  annual  vacation  lasted  three  weeks,  and  of 
necessity  included  the  Market  time.  So  the  Council,  by  way  of  turning  an  honest  penny,  let 
the  two  class-rooms  as  shops.  In  1810,  James  Brander,  for  the  south  room,  paid  £3  3s.  Next 
year,  for  the  same  room,  Michael  Henderson  paid  £4  4s ;  while  for  the  north  room  George 
Sinclair  paid  £5. 

For  market  purposes,  Baikie  of  Tankerness  built  a  row  of  booths  on  each  side  of  the  lane 
leading  down  to  the  offices  of  Tankerness  House.  These  still  remain,  and  are  occupied  by 
various  tenants. 

As  the  Fair  drew  an  immense  crowd  of  people  from  great  distances,  the  maintaining  of 
order  in  the  town  called  for  special  effort.  Accordingly  there  was  in  Kirkwall  a  small 
standing  army,  consisting  of  two  companies  of  drilled  and  armed  men.  The  Council 
appointed  the  Captain,  Lieutenant,  and  Ensign  of  each  company,  and  each  chose  their 
subordinate  officers.  The  "  up-the-gate "  company  usually  mustered  on  the  Broad  Sands, 
while  the  "  down-the-gate"  warriors  assembled  on  the  Aire.  Their  common  guard-house  was 
the  nave  of  the  Cathedral.  On  ordinary  occasions,  keeping  guard  seems  to  have  been  looked 
upon  as  an  excuse  for  heavy  drinking,  and  St.  Magnus  was  desecrated  by  many  a  bout  of 
noisy  revelry  before  old  Arthur  Murray's  penitent  liberality  erected  a  guard-house  on  the 
Kirk  Green. 

There  were  times,  however,  when  the  services  of  the  guard  were  seriously  required.  In 
1732  a  "tumultuous  mob,"  consisting  chiefly  of  Caithness  and  Sutherland  ferry-loupers,  to 

♦  C.  R.,23id  July  1710. 

2Y 


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346  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

the  number  of  forty,  armed  with  swords  and  pistols,  defied  and  insulted  the  magistrates  and 
guard  in  the  open  street.  The  fact  that  no  blood  was  shed  shows  that  this  defiance  and  insult 
consisted  merely  of  words,  and  that  the  strangers  felt  they  dared  not  use  their  weapons.  The 
two  companies  of  the  guard  kept  the  street,  prudently  making  no  arrests  till  the  crowd 
dispersed.  A  meeting  of  the  Council  was  called  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening.  James  Traill 
of  Wood  wick,  a  man  of  sense  and  courage,  was  Provost.  He  took  immediate  steps  to  redeem 
the  honour  of  the  burgh.  All  the  inhabitants  who  had  received  lodgers  were  required  to 
give  their  names  to  the  Council  at  nine  o'clock  next  morning,  and  to  furnish  an  inventory  of 
their  goods  that  they  might  be  poinded  as  "  a  hostage  for  their  good  beheaviour."  To  prevent 
the  escape  of  the  rioters,  the  boats  of  all  strangers,  or  at  least  their  oars  and  rudders,  were 
seized,  and  that  not  in  Kirkwall  only,  but  in  every  parish  where  strangers  had  landed.  At 
the  same  time,  ferrymen  and  all  other  proprietors  of  boats  were  prohibited  from  conveying 
the  rioters  or  their  effects  out  of  the  country. 

The  fact  that  these  men  appeared  armed  in  the  street  was  itself  a  breach  of  municipal 
law,  because  for  many  years  there  had  been  a  standing  order  that  strangers  coming  to  the 
market  should  not  carry  arms  "yrat,"  and  that  none  of  the  townspeople  should  lodge  a 
stranger  till  first  he  had  handed  over  his  weapons.  Scott,  in  the  "  Pirate,"  describes  the 
rescue  of  Cleveland  by  a  boat's  crew  armed  with  stretchers,  but  that  the  Town  Guard,  which 
could  prevent  forty  Caithness  and  Sutherland  men,  each  provided  with  sword  and  pistol,  from 
doing  mischief,  should  be  deforced  so  easily,  is  scarcely  in  keeping  with  the  great  novelist's 
genera]  accuracy. 

When  such  crowds  assembled  annually  in  the  little  town  many  persons  were  utterly  unable 
to  find  house-room,  and  a  "  Lammas  bed  "  was  the  last  resource  of  these  unfortunates.  This 
was  the  floor  of  some  empty  house,  where  homeless  wanderers  of  all  ages  and  of  both  sexes, 
glad  to  get  a  roof  over  their  heads,  lay  down  and  slept,  in  weary  unconsciousness  of  being 
among  strange  bedfellows. 

Scott,  among  other  peculiarities,  good  or  bad,  of  Orcadians  at  the  market  time,  mentions 
this  :— "  It  was  anciently  a  custom  at  Saint  Olla's  Fair  at  Kirkwall  that  the  young  people  of 
the  lower  class  and  of  either  sex  associated  in  pairs  for  the  period  of  the  Fair,  during  which 
the  couple  were  termed  Lambmas  brother  and  sister.  It  is  easy  to  conceive  that  the  exclusive 
familiarity  arising  out  of  this  custom  was  liable  to  abuse,  the  rather  that  it  is  said  little 
scandal  was  attached  to  the  indiscretions  which  it  occasioned."  The  titles,  "  Lammas  brother 
and  sister,"  are  not  yet  quite  obsolete,  nor  perhaps  is  the  custom  of  two  young  people  agreeing 
to  be  sweethearts  during  market  week.  Old  usages  die  hard.  Though  for  a  couple  of 
centuries  the  Fair  has  been  limited  in  duration  to  "  three  days  and  no  more,"  the  memory  of 
the  ancient  fortnight  is  still  kept  up.  The  most  general  holiday,  sending  the  greatest  crowd 
to  Kirkwall,  is  not  the  opening  Tuesday,  but  the  second  Saturday,  known  as  "the  last 
Saturday  of  the  Market." 

The  following  proclamation  will  show  that  in  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century  the 
Lammas  Fair  did  not  necessarily  begin  on  a  Tuesday  : — 

**  Forsaemickill  as  the  common  fair  of  this  burgh  is  to  be  and  begine  upon  Monenday  nizt,  the 
fourth  day  of  August  1662  instant,  and  to  stand  ana  indure  dureing  the  tyme  accustomate  thairfor ; 
thairfor,  in  our  soweraine  Lordis  name  and  authoritie,  and  in  name  and  behalf  of  the  Provaist,  Baillies, 
and  Counsill  of  this  burgh,  I  inhibit  and  discharge  that  no  persone  or  persones  trubel  ore  molest  his 
Majestie's  leidges  during  the  standing  of  the  said  faire,  but  to  suffer  and  permitt  them  frielie  and 
quyetly  to  pas  and  repas ;  commanding  also  that  no  market  be  maid  on  the  Sabothe  day,  under  the 
I>aine  of  ten  pundis  to  ilk  contraveiner  by  and  attour  ecclesiasticall  punishment  to  be  imposit ;  as  also 
that  no  horses  or  beastieall  be  brought  lower  downe  the  streitt  nor  the  sands,  and  that  all  vool  be 
sauld  upon  the  shoir  ore  rampeir,  and  not  in  buthes  or  houses,  under  the  paine  of  fyve  pennies  ilk 
contraveiner ;  Commanding  also  that  all  the  inhabitants  caus  dight  thair  gutteris  and  waindwis, 


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THE  LAM;Mi.S   MABKET.  347 

nnder  the  paine  of  fourtie  schillings  ilk  contraviner  ;  and  this  I  mak  knawin  to  all  that  non  pretend 
ignorance.     God  save  the  King."  * 

A  recent  writer  says  regarding  the  Broad  Sands  :— "  It  will  be  remembered  that  this  was 
the  place  chosen  by  the  Town  Coancil  as  a  race-course  when  an  attempt  was  made  to  start 
horse-racing  in  Kirkwall  at  the  beginning  of  the  last  century."  t 

The  Town  Council  had  considerable  difficulty  in  preventing  people  at  the  head  of  the 
town  from  appropriating  portions  of  the  Broad  Sands  for  private  use.  As  may  readily  be 
imagined,  householders  seeing  a  piece  of  unoccupied  ground  before  their  doors,  built  their 
peats  on  it  without  permission  asked  or  received.  "  The  Magistrates  and  Councill,  considering- 
That  there  sealls.  peices  of  Weast  Ground  or  Braes  possest  |  by  sealls.  as  peat  ground  and 
oyrways  about  the  Broad  Sands  of  this  Burgh  without  any  title,  Therefor  they  have  appoynted 
the  Clerk  to  subve.  ane  warrand  to  the  officers  to  advertise  the  seall.  possessors  of  the  said 
waist  Ground  to  wait  upon  the  Councill  this  Day  Eight  Days  to  Instruct  their  Titles  or  take 
new  flfews,  with  Certification  That  any  who  faill,  the  waist  Ground  will  be  fewed  to  oyrs  who 
will  give  most."  § 


APPENDIX  TO  CHAPTER  XIX. 
Proclamation  of  the  Lammas  Market. 


The  following  is  the  text  of  the  proclamation  of  the  Lammas  Market  in  the  year  1707^ 
when  Queen  Anne  was  on  the  throne  and  the  Union  of  the  Parliaments  of  England  and 
Scotland  had  just  been  effected  : — 

"  In  Her  Majestie's  Name  and  Autboritie,  And  in  name  and  Authoritie  of  the  Provist,  Baillies, 
and  Counsill  of  the  Brugh  of  Kirkwall,  These  are  giveing  advertisment  that  the  Commone  Lamba^- 
mercat  or  fair  of  this  brugh  Is  to  be  and  begin  On  Tuesday  the  ffyfth  day  of  August  nix  to  come, 
which  is  to  continew  for  thrie  dayes  space  and  no  Longer.  Thairfore  heirby,  in  name  and  authoritie 
above  scified.  Commanding  Her  Majestie's  peace  to  be  Keeped  and  Observed  by  all  persons  who  shall 
happen  to  resort  to  the  said  Mercat ;  And  that  all  horses,  oxen,  and  other  Cattell  That  shall  be 
Inbrought  therto  Come  no  Laigher  doune  the  street  than  the  broad  sands  of  this  Brugh,  which  is  the 
vsuall  and  ordinar  mercat  place  for  the  samen  ;  And  that  none  make  mercat  of  the  saids  Goods  in 
Laines  or  Back  Loanes,  but  upon  the  common  mercat  place  ;  And  that  none  bring  hoi'ses  to  the  said 
mercat  vnder  smyting  diseases  to  the  prejudice  of  others,  vnder  the  paines  contained  in  ye  Act  of 
Parliament  and  Burrow  Lawes  made  thereanent ;  And  those  who  bring  wooU  to  the  said  mercat  to  be 
sold,  That  they  sell  it  not  privatelie  in  booths,  houses,  or  closses,  but  that  the  samen  brought  to  th& 
mercat  place  appoynted  for  that  effect  ;I|  and  that  all  Importers  and  exporters  of  forraigne  and  Inward 
Commodities  pay  the  Customes  and  dewes  thereof,  Conforme  to  the  priviledse  and  Libertie  used  and 
observed  in  other  Brughs  Royall  within  the  Kingdome,  j>eaceablie  as  it  shall  be  required  ;  As  Lyk- 
wayes  these  are  Ordouring  all  the  Inhabitants  within  vis  Brugh  to  be  in  readiness  with  ther  armes 
sumcientlie  ffixed  and  dressed  with  ther  furniture  both  for  keeping  her  Majestie's  peace  In  case  of  any 
vproar  or  disturbans.  And  for  keeping  guard  the  space  above  written  ;  And  that  they  cause  make  the 
common  street  foment  ther  dwelling-houses  Clean  of  peats,  rubbish,  and  middings,  And  cleanye  ther 
Vennals  and  Guitors  vnder  such  penalties  as  Effeires ;  Of  all  which  premises  None  is  to  pretend 
ignorance.  With  Certificatione  to  the  Contraveners  they  will  be  prociedit  against  as  accords  ;  Given 
by  Command  of  the  saids  Magistrats  and  counsill  vnder  the  hand  of  the  clerk  of  this  Brugh  the  Tuentie 
flfourth  day  of  July  1707. 

** €rod  Save  the  Queen.  "Geo.  SrsNCE. 

"Thes  are  Lykwayes  giving  advertisment  to  the  haill  Inhabitants  within  Brugh  That  they  have 
ther  amies  sufficientlie  dressed  and  in  Good  Ordour  against  Tuesday  nixt,  beine  tne  Tuentie  Nynth 
Instant,  And  that  they  be  present  with  their  armes  att  the  Ba  Ley  the  said  day  for  Randivouzinff, 
With  Certificatione  to  those  that  shall  absent  themselves  or  not  have  their  armes  well  fixed  and  in 
good  ordour  att  the  said  day  They  will  be  punished  and  fyned  at  the  Magistrats'  discretione." 

*  Ork.  and  Zet.  Chron.,  Sept.  1825.        t  W.  R.  Mackintosh.        J  Occupied. 
§  C.  R.,  18th  July  1716.  II  The  Shore  or  Ramparts. 


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CHAPTER  XX. 

The  upper  Laverock. 

^BOVE  the  Clay  Loan,  a  considerable  amount  of  property  on  both  sides  of  the  street 
belonged,  in  1677,  to  Robert  Richan  of  Linklater.  Robert  Richan,  tacksman  of 
Caldale,  had  two  sons,  William  and  Robert.  The  younger  son,  Robert,  born  in 
Caldale,  1620,  was  as  a  youth  apprenticed  to  Thomas  Warwick.  In  1637,  Robert  Richan, 
**  servitor  to  Thomas  Warwick,  litster,"  witnesses,  along  with  his  master,  a  transfer  of  shares 
of  the  barque  "  Sampsone."  Warwick,  probably  an  Englishman,  was  succeeded  in  his  business 
by  his  son,  John.  Neither  of  them  appears  to  have  been  prosperous.  John  borrowed  money 
in  1647  from  Matthew  Mowbray,  and  has  left  no  further  history.  But  Warwick's  apprentice, 
Richan,  became  wealthy.  In  1667  he  bought  Linklater,  in  Sandwick,  from  Alexander  Link- 
later,  for  "  ane  certaine  great  soume  of  money."  *  Above  the  Clay  Loan,  the  house  at  the 
south-east  corner  of  the  street,  a  double  tenement,  belonged  to  him.  Past  this  came  two 
houses,  "  of  old  callit  the  Towmall  and  Oven  pertaining  to  John  Dow."  Next  was  "  ane 
ruinous  house,  lyand  without  ruife,  pertaining  to  Wra.  Deldale."  Next  to  these,  on  the 
site  of  the  Balfour  Hospital,  Richan  had  "  twa  double  tenements,  haveing  four  seall.  gavelLs  to 
the  streit,  viz.,  twa  sclaitt  ruifed  and  twa  theack  ruifed,  of  old  callit  Alaster  Tailyeor*s  land." 
As  no  tenants  are  mentioned  in  connection  with  these  houses,  we  must  conclude  that  they 
were  the  litster's  business  premises,  and  their  extent  would  indicate  a  very  flourishing  trade. 

At  the  back  of  Richan's  four-gabled  tenements  was  the  house  of  Magnus  Taylor,  "  alias 
Claybraes."  Magnus  married  Margaret  Linnie,  but  the  vigilant  Session  had  something  to  say 
in  the  matter.  On  the  day  before  the  wedding,  "  compeired  Magnus  Taylor,  Claybraes,  and 
was  ordained  to  give  in  ane  ticket,  wherin  he  obleidges  himself  to  be  lyable  to  the  Session  for 
the  soume  of  twelve  pounds,"  in  case  of  the  premature  birth  of  his  first  child,  "  qch  ticket  the 
said  Magnus  granted."  +  It  is  satisfactory-  to  find  that  Claybraes  did  not  require  to  pay  the 
twelve  pounds. 

Above  Richan's  business  premises  came  first  the  house  of  James  Black,  merchant ;  then 
that  of  William  Farquhar,  glover  ;  and  next,  Robert  Richan's  own  dwelling-house.  This  last 
still  stands,  and  shows  on  one  of  the  putt-stones  the  initials  of  its  builder  and  the  date  of  its 
erection,  "  R.  R.,  1671." 

In  the  part  of  the  space  now  occupied  by  the  Hospital  garden,  Richan  had  "  ane  new 
built  tenement,  under  sclaitt  roofe,  opposite  to  ye  other  tenements,  p'ntlie  j)ossest  be  George 
Spence,  ane  of  the  bailyies  of  ye  sd.  Burgh."  The  northern  boundary  of  this  was  a  piece  of 
**  weast  ground  towards  the  Lands  commonlie  called  the  horsmercat." 

Richan  was  twice  married.  By  his  first  wife,  Mary  Rowsay,  he  had  two  daughters. 
Katherine  married  Hugh,  son  of  Thomas  Redland  of  Redland,  with  a  tocher  of  1000  merks  ; 
•  Court  books,  14th  Aug.  1667.         t  S.  R.,  20th  Dec.  1675. 


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THE  UPPER  LAVEROCK. 


349 


and  Jean  married  John  Stewart  of  How,  presumably  with  as  much.  His  second  wife  was  Isobel, 
daughter  of  Adam  Ballenden  of  Stenness.  By  this  time  (1660)  the  Ballendens  had  been  settled 
in  Orkney  for  more  than  a  century.  In  1535,  James  V.  made  Thomas  Ballenden  a  judge  in 
the  Court  of  Session.  He  died,  1546,  leaving  two  sons,  John  and  Patrick.  Sir  John  was 
concerned  in  the  murder  of  Rizzio,  and  fled  the  country ;  Sir  Patrick  became  Sheriiff  of 


Lintel  at  back  of  Balfour  Hoflpital. 


Orkney,  and  on  easy  terms  secured  extensive  grants  of  church  lands.  He  got  the  Bishop's 
teinds  of  Evie,  with  Enhallow,  Berstane,  Turmiston,  Culstane,  and  Howbister,  set  in  feu  for 
£102  Scots  *  This  was  ratified  by  a  charter  granted  by  Queen  Mary  at  Edinburgh,  18th 
February  1565.  "  Stanehous  pays  in  land  maill,  4  barrels  butter,  2  yeld  mairts,  and  6  meills, 
4s  cost,  all  set  in  feu  to  Sir  Patrick  Ballenden."  William  Ballenden  bought  Gairsay  from 
William  Murehead,  29th  September  1588.  The  Ballendens  were  always  designated  as  of 
Stenness,  but  they  lived  at  Aikerness,  in  Evie,  and  here  they  carried  things  with  a  high  hand. 
Adam  Ballenden  was  a  veritable  "  Captain  Knockdunder."  At  a  Presbyterial  vi8itation,t  "  The 
minister,  Mr  John  Innesse,  being  askit  if  the  Elders  were  helpfull  and  assisting  to  him  by 
delating  offenders  and  strengthening  hLs  hands  to  gete  them  punished  according  to  the 
constitutione  of  the  church,  answered  they  were,  except  Stennesse,J  whome  he  declaired 
to  endeavour  to  carry  all  with  ane  high  hand  as  hee  pleases,  and  sometymes  to  upbraid 
him  and  all  the  rest  of  the  Elders,  calling  them  sottes ;  moreover,  he  declared  that 
Stennesse,  after  sermone,  six)ke  to  him  while  hee  was  in  the  pulpit,  and  said  that  it  was  a 
presumptione  for  him  to  beginne  the  sermone  soe  soon  as  he  had  done.  Stennesse  called  on 
and  posed  anent  each  of  these  particulars,  was  exhorted  to  carry  calmlie  and  peaceablie  in  the 
Sessione,  and  rebuked  for  affronting  the  minister  publickly,  and  alleging  that  the  minister 
keeped  no  ordinare  time  of  going  to  the  church,  the  minister  was  posed  thereanent,  and  both 
of  them,  with  the  rest  of  the  elders,  were  desyred  to  fall  on  the  most  convenient  tyme  for 
going  to  the  public  worshipes.  The  minister  being  further  enquired  what  encouragements 
hee  had  as  to  a  manse  provisione  and  the  like,  ans weired  hee  had  no  manse  at  all,  the  Laird 
of  Stenneiise  keeping  it  violentlie  from  him  and  not  permitting  him  to  have  so  much  as  grasse 
to  his  horse  ;  Stennesse  called  on  and  askit  how  the  matter  was,  ansred  that  yt.  house  qr. 
former  ministers  resided,  with  the  land  adiacent  yrto,  belonged  to  him  ;  that  he  could  show 
them  a  tack  that  Mr  Frances  Mon'isone,  who  was  immediate  possessor  of  the  manse  and  land 
forsaid,  did  hald  of  him  and  his  predecessors,  wherin  the  said  Mr  Frances  binds  him  selfe  to 


•  Pet.  Rent.,  ii.  62.        t  16th  May  1667. 


Mrs  Richan's  father. 


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350 


KIRKWALL  IN  tHE  ORKNEYS. 


pay  unto  him  yeirly  20  merkes  for  the  house  and  yairds  ;  being  desyred  to  produce  the  tack, 
said  that  Elizabeth  Ogilvie*  had  taken  it  south  with  her.*' 

For  nearly  two  hundred  years  the  Ballendens  were  one  of  the  most  influential  families  in 
Orkney,  but,  in  1744,  William  Honyman  got  decree  for  the  sale  of  their  estate,  and  secured  it 
for  himself. 

When  Robert  Richan  was  in  business  in  Kirkwall,  it  was  customary  for  masters  to  have 
their  apprentices  living  in  family  with  them,  and  among  his  youths  was  a  smatchet  of  the 
"  Simon  Tappertit "  species. 

On  the  10th  December  1677,  "  Compeired  Robert  Richen  of  Lincklater  and  Issobell  ballen- 
den,  his  spouse,  and  gave  in  ane  bill  of  Complaint  upon  ther  prentise,  John  Drummond,  who, 
in  his  drunkenes,  had  vaunted  that  he  had 
carnal  1  dealings  with  Margaret  Richen,  ther 
only  daughter."  The  case  was  at  once  tried  by 
the  Session,  which  comprehended  the  best  men 
in  Kirkwall.  "  George  Spence,  baylie  ;  Robert 
pottinger  and  John  richen,  eldars,  declared 
that,  upon  the  first  rumor  of  the  said  slander, 
Issobel  ballenden,  spous  to  Robert  Richen, 
came  to  them  and  desired  them  to  come  to  ther 
house  to  try  the  said  John  privatlie,  who,  when 
they  came  in,  the  said  John  drumond  came  in 
befor  them  with  ane  bible  in  his  hand,  and 
(they  dissuading  him)  fell  downe  upon  his 
knees,  and  voluntarlie  gave  his  great  oath  that 
he  never  knew  Margret  Richen  carnallie." 

"My  Lord  Bishop  and  Session,  with  the 
concurrance  of  the  magistrates  present,  doe 
(wio  conseiim)  declair  the  said  John  guiltie  as 
aforesaid,  and  ordains  him  to  pay  Ten  pounds 
Scots  in  pio8  iims,  and  to  be  set  publicklie 
in  the  cuckstool  or  pillorie  after  the  usuall 
manner,  with  ane  paper  on  his  head  containing 
the  heads  of  his  oflfence  in  Capitall  letters, 
and  that  upon  Saturday  nixt,  betwixt  ten  and 
twelve  hours  forenoon,  and  thereafter  he  is  to 
returne  to  prison,  and  upon  Sunday  morning 
he  is  to  stand  at  the  entrie  of  the  church  doore, 
with  the  same  paper  on  his  head,  from  the 
second  bell  to  the  thrid,  and  after  sermon  to 

appear  before  the  pulpitt,  and  ther  mak  ane  publick  confession  of  his  faults,  and  declare 
signes  of  humiliation  for  the  samen,  and  to  restore  the  young  damosell  to  her  good  name  so 
unjustlie  aspersed.  And  after  sermon  he  is  to  returne  to  prison  till  his  fyne  be  payed,  or  else 
sufficient  caution  be  found  therfor.  And  also  ordains  that  if  the  said  John  shall  heirafter  be 
heard  to  renew  or  reiterate  the  samen  slander,  he  shall  be  procest  against  de  novo,  and  be 
censured  and  punished  both  by  Ecclesiastick  and  Civil  judges." 

It  is  pleasant  to  know  that  Margaret  survived  the  slander  and.  married  a  good  man. 

*  Presumably  Mrs  Morrison.  Mr  Francis  does  not  appear  in  the  Fasti ;  possibly  he  was  the  son 
of  Mr  James  Morrison,  a  former  minister  of  Evie  and  Rendall. 


Tombstone  of  Robert  Richan  and  Isobel 
Ballenden  in  Cathedral. 


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"  Thursday,  about  3  in  the  afternoon,  James  Kaa,  Merchant,  Burgess  of  Kirkwall,  was  married 
to  Margaret  Richan,  only  lawful  daughter  to  Robt.  Richan  of  Linklater,  procreat  betwixt  him 
and  Isobel  Ballenden."  ♦ 

The  Richans'  pew  in  St.  Magnus  was  "  under  the  Stewarts'  loft,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
church  "  ;  and  George,  who  succeeded  Robert,  complaining  that  he  could  neither  heai*  nor  see 
the  minister,  got  permission  to  remove  to  a  pew  in  front  of  the  Earl  of  Orkney's  seat. 

This  George  was  three  times  married,  and  he  left  a  large  family.  His  will,  dated  27th 
October  1727,  shows  him  to  have  been  possessed  of  wide  lands,  chiefly  in  the  West  Mainland, 
considerable  house  property  in  Kirkwall,  much  uninvested  money,  and  a  bond  over  the 
estate  of  Harry  Moncrieff  of  Rapness  to  the  amount  of  10,000  merks,  through  which  bond 
Rapness  and  Braebister  by  and  by  came  into  possession  of  Richan's  grandson.  He  left  his 
third  wife,  Anne  Ritchie,  "  yearly,  during  her  widowhood,  2000  merks,  or,  if  she  marry,  the  @ 
rent  of  1000  merks  yearly  during  her  life."   The  details  occupy  twenty-seven  pages  of  foolscap. 


^^    4lJ^ 


-.^USL'-S. 


Stone  in  House  at  Gutter  Hole,  t 

George's  son,  Robert,  married  Jean  Stewart  of  Eday,  and  Robert's  son,  George,  the  fourth 
Richan  of  Linklater,  became,  through  the  above-mentioned  bond,  the  first  Richan  of  Rapness. 
(George's  death  was  sad  and  sudden.  He  was  taking  a  boat  load  of  lime  out  to  Westray  for 
his  new  house  at  Rapness,  when  it  was  supposed  that  a  sea  had  broken  on  board,  and,  acting 
on  the  lime,  wrecked  the  boat.  All  hands  perished.  Richan's  body  was  found  on  the  north 
point  of  Ruskholm,  past  recognition  but  for  the  clothes.  His  silver  shoebuckles  and  silk 
stockings  proved  the  identity,  and  the  body  was  taken  to  Westray  and  buried  in  the  choir  of 
the  old  church  at  Pierowall.  His  brother,  William,  a  lieutenant  in  the  navy,  succeeded  to  the 
property,  1781. 

Meanwhile  another  branch  of  the  Richan  family  had  settled  in  the  South  Isles,  the 
founder  of  which  was  George,  a  son  by  the  second  marriage  of  George,  the  second  Richan 
of  Linklater.  He  was  a  sailor,  and  had  commanded  the  ship  "  Gordon,  of  Kairston."  When 
he  retired  from  the  sea,  he  took  from  Andrew  Baikie  of  Hoy  a  tack  for  nineteen  years  of  the 
island  of  Pharay  ;  but  his  home  was  Hoxa,  in  South  Ronaldshay.  On  one  occasion  a  pirate, 
or  what  was  closely  akin,  a  French  privateer,  plundered  Hoxa  and  Roeberry.  George  Richan, 
in  attempting  to  defend  his  property,  was  stabbed  in  the  back,  kicked,  and  left  for  dead ; 
but  while  the  house  was  being  sacked,  he  crept  into  a  hiding-place  and  saved  his  life. 

In  March  1789,  the  Town  Council  had  under  consideration  "  a  Petition  for  Lieutenant 
William  Richan  of  Rapness  craving  leave  to  take  stones  out  of  the  quarry  at  the  side  of  the 

*  T.  B.,  6th  Nov.  1684. 

t  "  R.R.  I.B."  are  the  initials  of  George  Richan's  parents,  and  **  I.D."  those  of  his  second  wife, 
Isobel  Dick. 


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852  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

road  leading  to  Scapa.^'  With  these  stones  William  Richan  built  a  house,  which,  no  doubt^ 
he  thought  suitable  for  the  accommodation  of  any  Orkney  gentleman.  But  he  married  his 
cousin,  Esther,  daughter  of  George  Richan,  of  the  "  Gordon  of  Kairston,*'  and  his  new  house 
was  not  sufficient  for  his  wife,  a  woman  of  most  extravagant  tastes.  Accordingly,  in  1824,  he 
bought  from  James  Copland,  merchant,  Deerness,  the  house  "commonly  called  the  Meal 
House,"  and,  demolishing  both,  built  a  new  mansion,  the  present  Balfour  Hospital. 

By  this  time  Captain  Richan  was  in  the  hands  of  money  lenders.  In  1824,  possibly 
in  connection  with  building  and  furnishing,  he  borrowed  from  John  Garson  of  Bea  £1400, 
and  he  had  already  taken  a  loan  of  trust  funds  from  Sir  David  Wedderburn  to  the  extent  of 
£760,  while  he  owed  Andrew  Hill,  W.S.,  £250.  For  the  interest  of  these  sums  the  Rev. 
Charles  Colman,  Norfolk,  and  Mr  Charles  Spence,  solicitor,  Edinburgh,  became  security.  In 
1829,  these  gentlemen,  along  with  the  Captain's  eldest  daughter,  Mary,  then  residing  in 
Hackney,  London,  were  appointed  trustees,  and  took  over  the  whole  Richan  property,  the 
veteran  seaman  declaring  himself  too  old  to  manage  his  estate,  which  included  the  ancient 
family  mansion  of  the  Boyds,  in  the  Canongate  of  Edinburgh,  having  "  three  main  stories  or 
flats,  besides  garrets  above  the  same  and  cellars  or  vaults  under  the  same." 

One  provision  in  the  trust  deed  is  almost  pathetic — "  that  my  dwelling-house  at  Kirkwall 
shall  be  the  last  of  my  property  sold  by  the  Trustees."  In  this  house  he  died,  1830,  and  from 
it  was  carried  to'his  burial  in  the  north  choir  aisle  of  St.  Magnus,  the  last  interment  within 
the  screen. 

The  story  of  Captain  Richan's  retirement  from  the  Navy,  if  true,  was  peculiarly  Orcadian. 

Whether  smuggling  was  ever  regarded  as  honourable  by  the  gentlemen  of  Orkney  may 
perhaps  be  open  to  question,  but  the  fact  remains  that  till  the  end  of  the  great  French  War 
it  was  practised  by  every  one  of  them,  unless  he  were  in  the  direct  employment  of  the 
Commissioners  of  Customs.  Captain  Richan  had  the  hereditary  instinct,  and  H.M.S. 
Norfolk  ran  many  a  contraband  cask  and  web  into  the  mansions  of  the  Orkney  lairds.  But 
a  zealous  Collector  of  Excise,  Mr  Robert  Pringle,  who  lived  in  Broad  Street,  knowing  what 
was  going  on,  determined  to  have  a  search,  and,  under  some  plausible  pretext,  he  managed  to 
board  the  Norfolk.  He  found  that  her  very  guns  were  loaded  with  tea  and  tobacco.  The 
ship  was  condemned,  ceased  to  belong  to  the  Admiralty,  and  became  the  property  of  the 
Excise,  and  Captain  Richan  was  permitted  to  retire  from  the  Navy,  probably  on  a  pension. 

A  tradition  regarding  Mrs  Richan*s  reckless  extravagance  still  lingers  in  Kirkwall.  On  a 
wager  with  a  gentleman  as  to  which  should  outdo  the  other  in  the  expense  of  a  breakfast,  the 
lady  placed  a  fifty  pound  banknote  between  two  slices  of  bread  and  butter,  and  cutting  this 
sandwich  into  little  bits,  ate  the  whole  of  it.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  bet  was  big  enough  to 
pay  for  the  meal. 

James  Stewart—**  Peasie  "—was  related  to  Esther  Richan,  and  the  lady,  although  she  had 
no  love  for  the  wealthy  merchant,  yet  hoped  to  inherit  the  bulk  of  his  property.  When  she 
found  that  Stewart's  money  had  been  left  to  the  poor  of  Kirkwall,  she  instituted  proceedings 
to  have  the  will  set  aside.  This,  with  an  expensive  suit  against  Stewart  of  Br  ugh,  went  far 
to  bring  about  Richan's  bankruptcy.  Captain  Richan's  trustees  sold  his  house  to  James 
Shearer,  merchant. 

Old  Robert  Bor^^ick,  of  Highland  Park,  made  this  sale  the  occasion  of  a  bit  of  judicious 
advice  to  a  young  tradesman  : — "  Ha'e  thoo  naethin'  tae  dae  wi'  pass-books ;  it  was  pass- 
books that  passed  Captain  Richan's  hoose  into  Jeems  Shearer's  hands." 

After  the  death  of  the  old  captain,  the  house  was  let  by  the  Trustees  to  Mr  Charles 
,  ShireflP,  Sheriflf-Substitute  of  Orkney.  Mr  Shireff,  in  view  of  the  impending  sale,  applied  to 
the  Crown  authorities  for  an  official  residence  : — 


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THE   UPPER  LAVEROCK.  353 

"  Copy  Memorial  for  Charles  Shireff,  Sheriff-Substitute  op  Orkney, 
TO  THE  Kino's  Remembrancer  in  Exchequer. 

"  The  Memorialist  was  appointed  Sheriff  Substitute  of  Orkney  in  the  year  1823,  and  since  that 
period  has  constantly  resided  in  the  County. 

"  During  the  period  the  Memorialist  has  resided  in  Orkney,  he  has  experienced  the  greatest 
difficulty  in  obtaining  for  himself  and  family  a  suitable  house  for  their  accommodation,  having  been 
under  the  necessity  of  moving  three  or  four  times.  The  house  which  the  Memorialist  at  present 
occupies  in  the  town  of  Kirkwall  belongs  to  a  Trust  Elstate,  and  is  immediately  to  be  disposed  of  for 
behoof  of  Creditors,  so  that  the  memorialist  will  be  removed  in  the  course  of  next  year,  and  after  that 
period  he  does  not  know  where  it  will  be  possible  for  him  to  obtain  a  house  for  the  accommodation  of 
nimself  and  family  in  the  County. 

"The  Kine's  Remembrancer  is  aware  that,  previous  to  the  resumption  of  the  Bishopric  of 
Orkney  by  His  Majesty,  a  very  learned  and  detailed  report  on  the  general  condition  of  the  property 
was  niade  to  the  Barons  by  the  late  Lord  Kinneder,  then  Sheriff  of  the  County. 

'*  In  that  report  His  Lordship  suggested  that  one  of  the  objects  to  which  the  attention  of  their 
Lordships  shoula  be  directed  in  the  appropriation  of  the  revenue  of  the  Crown  Estate,  was  to  provide 
suitable  accommodation  for  the  Sheriff-Substitute,  who  His  Lordship  was  well  aware,  from  his 
intimate  acquaintance  with  the  district,  had  been  fi'equently  put  to  the  greatest  inconvenience  owing 
to  the  difficulty  of  getting  houses  in  this  remote  district.  Lord  Kinneder  soon  thereafter  ceased  to 
hold  the  office  of  Sheriff  of  Orkney,  and  the  Memorialist  has  ever  since  felt  unwilling  to  trouble  the 
Barons  or  the  King's  Remembrancer  on  the  subject ;  and  nothing  but  the  extreme  difficulty  of  his 
otherwise  procuring  accommodation  would  have  induced  him  to  do  so. 

''The Idemorialist  respectfully  refers  the  King's  Remembrancer  to  the  report  itself,  which  is  in 
Exchequer. 

'*  The  Memorialist  may  mention  that  he  at  present  holds  a  lease  from  the  Barons  of  a  small  farm  * 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Kirkwall,  and  begs  to  sugg^t,  in  case  the  Barons  should  be  inclined  to  yield 
to  his  request,  that  situation  as  a  convenient  site  m>m  proximity  4;o  Kirkwall  for  the  erection  of  the 
House  ;  and  as  the  farm  is  rather  small  for  the  full  occupation  of  a  pair  of  horses,  if  a  few  acres  from 
any  of  the  adjoining  Crown  lands  could  be  added  to  the  Memorialist's  present  possession,  he  will  be 
ready  to  pay  whatever  the  Crown  Chamberlain  may  report  to  the  Barons  as  a  fair  and  adequate  rent 
for  the  wnole  premises. 

"If,  however,  their  Lordships  should  think  any  other  situation  more  eligible  for  the  general 
advantage  of  the  Crown  property,  the  Memorialist  will  be  most  happy  to  acquiesce. 

*'  As  the  Memorialist  understands  Orkney  will  not  be  a  solitanr  instance  where  accommodation 
is  provided  by  the  Crown  for  the  resident  Sheriff-Substitute,  that  officer  in  the  County  of  Sutherland 
bemg  so  accommodated  in  Dornoch,  he  trusts  that  the  King's  Remembrancer  will  bring  the  subject 
under  the  notice  of  the  Barons,  and  that  their  Lordships  on  his  so  doing  will  feel  inclined  to  follow 
out  the  proposal  of  the  late  Lord  Kinneder,  all  of  whose  suggestions  relative  to  the  affairs  of  the 
Crown  Estate  in  Orkney  which  have  hitherto  been  carried  into  effect,  seem  calculated  to  produce  the 
most  beneficial  effects  in  the  County. 

**  The  Memt.  deems  it  unnecessary  for  him  to  say  anything^  further  to  the  King's  Remembrancer 
on  the  subject,  as  the  present  Sheriff  and  the  Crown  Chamberlain  can  furnish  every  information  which 
may  be  required.— Humbly  submitted  by        (Signed)    Chas.  SHntSFF,  Sheriff  Subte.  of  Orkney. 

"  KirkwaU,  1st  Sept.  1831." 

Mr  Sbireff  was  unsuccessfol  in  his  application,  and  the  resident  County  judge  has  still  to 
eecnre  a  house  for  himself  where  he  can. 

In  the  general  election  of  1835,  when  Messrs  Traill  and  Laing  contested  the  County,  the 
latter  was  the  popular  candidate.  After  the  poll  it  was  known  that  Laing  had  a  considerable 
majority  in  Orkney,  but  it  was  doubtful  how  Shetland  had  gone.  Bad  weather  detained  the 
packet,  and  excitement  grew  with  the  delay.  Mr  Laing's  supporters  insisted  that,  as  the 
election  was  so  long  past,  the  Sheriff  should  declare  their  candidate  member ;  but  that  he 
could  not  do. 

Meantime  business  in  town  was  totally  suspended.  A  chair  was  made  from  Pabdale 
Willows,  and  Mr  Laing,  willingly  or  unwillingly,  was  carried  in  piper-led  procession  daily 
through  the  town,  while  faction  fights  enlivened  the  evenings. 

When  the  Shetland  mails  at  length  arrived  and  it  was  found  that  Mr  Traill  was 

*  Billhead. 

2z 


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854  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

returned,  the  Laing  party  was  furious.  An  angry  mob  collected  at  Mr  ShireflTs  house.  The 
result  of  the  poll  was  officially  announced  from  the  steps  at  the  front  door.  That  was  not 
sufficient,  the  proclamation  must  be  made  from  the  Hustings  on  the  Broad  Street. 

The  best  men  of  both  parties  formed  a  bodyguard  round  the  unfortunate  Sheriff^  and 
conducted  him  slowly  down  the  street  in  the  centre  of  a  hostile  crowd.  Their  progress  was 
stopped  for  a  time  at  the  National  Bank,  and  rancorous  feeling  found  vent  in  a  free  fight. 
Densely  packed  as  they  were  and  so  mixed  up,  friends  and  foes  together,  in  most  cases  clothes 
suffered  more  than  persons,  and  the  sprucest  dandies  and  the  most  dignified  gentlemen  came 
out  of  the  maul  ragged  tatterdemalions.  There  were,  however,  some  serious  assaults. 
Captain  Baikie  turned  out  to  help  his  party,  but  in  coming  down  the  steps  he  was  met  in  the 
face  by  the  fist  of  skipper  John  Dearness ;  Mr  Traill  Urquhart  was  doubled  up  by  a  blow 
under  the  ribs.*  At  last  Mr  Traill  of  Wood  wick,  a  man  of  commanding  presence  and  great 
physical  strength,  forced  a  passage  into  Broad  Street,  and  ended  the  melee  by  opening  up  the 
way  to  the  Hustings. 

Here  the  Sheriff,  shaken  as  to  his  nerves,  and  with  his  coat  divided  up  the  back  and  only 
prevented  by  the  collar  from  falling  oft*  in  two  parts,  pantingly  declared  the  result  of  the 
election. 

It  is  said  that  after  this  Mr  Shireff  did  not  leave  his  house  for  a  fortnight,  but  held  the 
County  Courts  in  his  dining  room. 

ThLs  riot  was  not  unlooked  for,  and  some  of  the  peace-loving  burghei-s  shut  up  their 
houses  and  went  out  of  town.  The  Rev.  Mr  Logie,  to  save  the  eyes  and  ears  of  his  boys  from 
sights  and  sounds  unholy,  took  them  for  a  picnic  to  the  Head  of  Work. 

As  has  been  seen,  Capt.  Richan's  Trustees  sold  the  house  to  Mr  James  Shearer,  merchant, 
from  whom  it  was  subsequently  purchased  to  be  put  to  its  present  beneficent  use  as  the 
County  Hospital.  The  origin  of  this  institution  is  best  told  in  the  words  of  the  Trust 
Deedt  :— 

*' Know  all  men  by  these  presents,  That  I,  John  Balfour,  Esquire  of  Trenaby,  now  residing  in 
Curzon  Street,  London,  Considering,  That  in  my  native  County  of  Orkney,  there  has  been  hitherto  a 
total  want  of  any  hospital  or  infirmary  for  the  relief  of  the  sick  and  wounded,  especially  of  the 
poorer  classes  of  its  inhabitants,  and  the  serious  inconveniences  frequently  resulting  from  its  situation 
being  so  remote  from  any  institution  of  the  kind,  and  having  therefore  resolved  that  a  part  of  my 
funds  consisting  of  Bonds  granted  by  the  Mexican  Government  or  by  its  Agents,  originally  to  the 
extent  of  twenty  thousand  pounds  Sterline,  all  dated  the  seventh  day  of  February  one  thousand  eight 
hmidred  and  twenty-four,  and  bearing  an  interest  of  five  per  cent,  with  the  arrear  of  bygone  interests 
due  and  to  become  due  thereon,  and  which  Bonds  are  now  in  the  custody  of  Messrs  Drummond  and 
Company,  Bankers  at  Charing  Cross,  London,  shall  be  immediately  convened  by  me  and  vested  in 
Trust,  in  order  that  the  proceeds  thereof  may  be  applied  towards  the  partial  supplv  of  the  said 
defect.  And  I  having  entire  confidence  in  the  integrity  and  capacity  of  the  persons  aftemamed  for 
executing  the  trust  reposed  in  them,  Do  hereby  Give,  Grant,  Assign,  Convey,  and  Make  Over  to 
and  in  favour  of  William  Balfour,  Esquire  of  Elwick  and  of  his  Majesty's  Navy ;  Thomas  Balfour, 
Younger  of  Elwick,  Esquire,  Advocate  at  the  Scottish  Bar  ;  David  Balfour,  Esquire,  of  Edinburgh  ; 
Lieut-enant  John  Baikie,  of  his  Majesty's  Navy  ;  James  Spence,  Esquire,  Banker  in  Kirkwall  ;  The 
first  Minister  of  Kirkwall  for  the  time  "being  ;  The  Sheriff-Depute  of  Orkney  for  the  time  being,  or,  in 
his  absence,  the  Sheriff-Substitute  of  Orkney  for  the  time  being,  each  being  a  member  of  the  Estab- 
lished Kirk  of  Scotland  ;  And  to  the  acceptors  or  acceptor,  survivors  or  survivor  of  them  and  such 
other  Trustees  pursuant  to  the  power  of  Assumption  herein  after  conferred  (The  Majority  or  any 
three  of  the  said  Trustees  to  be  a  quorum),  and  to  their  assignees.  All  and  whole  Those  one  hundred 
and  Forty-five  Bonds  for  principal  sums  amounting  altogether  to  the  sum  of  twenty  thousand  pounds 

*  He  was  carried  into  the  house  of  his  brother-in-law,  Dr  Bremner,  and  there  he  shortly  after- 
wards died.  An  examination  showed  that  Mr  Traill  Urquhart  had  been  suffering  from  a  disease  of 
the  kidneys  which  would  have  ultimately  proved  fatal ;  but  the  inflammation  caused  by  the  blow  was 
.  the  immediate  cause  of  his  death. 

t  Favoured  by  Mr  D.  J.  Robertson,  solicitor. 


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THE   UPPER   LAVEROCK.  355 

sterling,  granted  by  the  said  Mexican  Grovemment  or  its  Agents  now  pertaining  to  me  and  presently 
in  the  custody  of  the  saids  Messrs  Drammond  and  Company,  with  the  interests  or  dividends  due  or 
to  become  due  thereon,"  etc.,  etc. 

Mr  Charles  Shireff,  in  accepting  the  trusteeship,  calls  attention  to  the  clause,  "Each 
being  a  member  of  the  Established  Kirk  of  Scotland."  He  says,  "  In  a  strict  consideration 
this  clause  gives  rise  to  an  ambiguity  in  consequence  of  the  position  and  use  of  the  distri- 
butive pronoun  *  each.'  Whether  this  applies  to  the  whole  of  the  Trustees,  both  nominatim 
and  ex  officio^  or  to  the  whole  of  the  official  Trustees  only,  or  merely  to  the  Sheriff  Depute 
and  Substitute,  is  a  matter  of  some  uncertainty." 

When  Mr  Balfour  was  questioned  as  to  his  precise  meaning,  he  wrote  :— "  In  respect  to 
the  question  suggested  whether  it  was  my  intention  that  Dissenters  from  the  Established 
Church  of  Scotland  should  be  excluded  on  all  further  occasions  from  the  management  of  the 
Trust  affairs,  I  have  to  say  that  in  restricting  my  selection  of  Trustees  to  members  of  the 
Established  Church,  it  was  far  from  my  intention  to  imply  disrespect  to  Dissenters  as  a  body, 
or  to  any  Individual  of  that  body ;  but  knowing  how  religious  differences,  often  of  incon- 
siderable importance,  do  generate  disagreement  and  even  animosity  when  carried  into  secular 
affairs,  I  consider  it  safest  by  limiting  my  selection  to  one  class,  to  avoid  the  consequences  of 
a  mixture  of  jarring  elements." 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Trustees  held  on  7th  June  1836,  **  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness  came 
to  the  meeting  in  pursuance  of  the  requisition  sent  to  him  as  provost  of  Kirkwall,  but  on 
reading  the  Trust  Deed  which  provides  that  each  Trustee  shall  be  a  member  of  the  Estab- 
lished Kirk  of  Scotland,  he,  being  a  dissenter,  considered  himself  excluded  from  acting,  and 
therefore  retired." 

At  the  same  meeting  it  was  resolved  to  build  ;  and  "  with  the  view  of  proceeding  as  soon 
as  possible  to  carry  into  effect  the  benevolent  and  munificent  intentions  of  the  Donor,  no 
favourable  opportunity  of  procuring  the  most  eligible  site  for  the  Infirmary"  should  bo 
missed.  "  A  portion  of  the  Crown  Lands  called  Brandiquoy,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
Kirkwall,  possessing  above  any  other  situation  every  requisite  that  could  be  desired  in  the 
site  whereon  to  erect  the  contemplated  Institution,"  was  at  the  time  advertised  for  sale,  and 
the  Trustees  resolved  if  possible  to  secure  it.  They  were  prepared  to  buy  the  quoy  in  one  lot 
if  it  could  be  got  for  £450 ;  but  it  was  exposed  in  two  lots  at  an  upset  price  above  their 
figure. 

Meantime,  to  have  cash  on  hand,  they  realised  one  half  of  the  Mexican  stock,  which^ 
after  deducting  commission,  yielded  £2337  10s,  and  this  they  deposited  in  the  Kirkwall 
branch  of  the  National  Bank  of  Scotland.  The  remaining  bonds  were  subsequently  sold  for 
£3711  18s  Id,  giving,  along  with  the  proceeds  of  the  first  sale,  a  capital  of  £6049  8s  Id. 

In  January  1845,  Captain  Baikie,  of  the  National  Bank,  entered  into  negotiations  with 
James  Shearer  for  the  purchase  of  a  house  which  formerly  belonged  to  Capt.  Richan,  and  Mr 
finally  bought  it,  with  the  two  large  gardens  and  blacksmith's  shop  on  the  west  side  of  the 
street,  for  the  sum  of  £450. 

This,  along  with  the  cost  of  subsequent  purchases  of  houses  on  each  side  of  the  Hospital, 
the  Trustees  were  able  to  pay  without  touching  on  their  capital. 

In  May  of  the  above  year,  Mrs  Dearness  was  appointed  resident  nurse  or  Matron  at  a 
salary  of  £4  per  annum.  As  perquisites  she  was  to  have  coal  and  gas,  vegetables  from  the 
front  garden,  and  a  share  of  the  inmates'  food.  On  the  6th  October  1845,  the  first  patient, 
Christie  Irvine,  an  Eday  woman,  introduced  by  Mr  Peter  Flett,  surgeon,  was  admitted. 
From  that  time  the  Hospital  has  been,  perhaps,  the  most  valuable  public  institution  in 
Kirkwall. 


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KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  style  and  designation  of  the  Hospital  as  at  first  proposed  was  "  Trenaby's  Orkney 
Infirmary,"  but  on  this  being  submitted  to  the  founder,  he  replied,  "The  name,  'Orkney 
Haspital,'  without  the  adjunct,  seems  more  proper  as  more  general,  and  avoiding  to  individ- 
ualize, which  might  do  harm." 

In  December  1845,  Messrs  Logie  and  Robertson  having  been  appointed  to  frame  a  set  of 
regulations  for  the  management  of  the  Infirmary,  produced  a  draft  which  began — "  Ist.  That 
the  Institution  be  called  the  '  Orkney  Hospital.'  "  This  continued  to  be  the  name  till  1853, 
when  the  same  two  gentlemen  proposed  a  change.  David  Balfour,  Esq.  of  Balfour  and 
Trenaby,  was  then  one  of  the  Trustees  and  in  the  chair,  when  "  Mr  Robertson  moved  that  the 
style  and  designation  of  the  Hospital  shall  in  future  be  the  Balfour  Orkney  Hospital,  and  the 
motion  having  been  seconded  by  Mr  Logie,  was  unanimously  agreed  to  and  carried." 

And  the  fact  is  obvious,  that  to  leave  out  the  name  of  the  founder  and  to  designate 
it  simply  the  Orkney  Hospital,  would  cut  off  from  general  knowledge  the  most  interesting 
point  in  the  history  of  the  institution. 

The  present  shortened  designation  first  appears  in  the  minute  book,  2nd  December  1857, 
when  Capt.  Baikie  writes  "as  one  of  the  Trustees  and  acting  for  my  Co.  Trustees  of  the 
Balfour  Hospital." 

In  the  matter  of  medical  attendance,  the  Trustees  acted  very  prudently.  Rule  Third, 
under  the  head  of  "  Admission  of  Patients,"  reads  "  that  patients  able  and  willing  to  pay  for 
medical  attendance  will  be  treated  by  their  medical  adviser  in  the  Hospital  and  eiyoy  groHs 
its  other  benefits."  Again— "It  was  unanimously  agreed  that,  as  the  institution  is  in  its 
infancy  and  the  current  expense  or  extent  of  its  utility  cannot  be  at  present  accurately 
ascertained,  the  Treasurer  be  requested  to  write  to  each  of  the  medical  gentlemen  in  Kirkwall, 
requesting  to  know  whether  they  are  willing  to  attend  the  Hospital  during  1846,  gratuitously, 
and  whether  each  of  them  would  be  willing  to  act  as  follows,  namely,  Mr  Bremner  for  the 
first  Quarter,  Dr  Duguid  for  the  second,  Mr  Flett  for  the  third,  and  Dr  Logie  for  the  fourth 
Quarter."  * 

The  four  gentlemen  appealed  to  readily  acquiesced ;  but  at  the  outset  little  difiiculties 
cropped  up.  During  the  first  quarter  of  1846,  when  the  general  work  of  the  Hospital  was 
under  the  superintendence  of  Dr  Bremner,  Mary  Sabiston,  one  of  Dr  Logie's  patients,  was 
admitted.  On  this  Capt.  Baikie  wrote  the  latter — "  Though  she  will  be  received  and  get  the 
accommodation,  food,  and  attendance  of  the  nurse,  it  is  requisite  to  make  arrangements  as  to 
the  medical  attendance.  I,  therefore,  beg  you  will  say  whether  she  is  to  be  your  patient,  or  is 
she  to  become  the  patient  of  Mr  Bremner  for  the  remainder  of  this  month."  t 

Doubtless  the  unwritten  laws  of  professional  etiquette  adjusted  that  and  similar  cases. 
The  first  year  passed  smoothly,  and  in  January  1847  "  the  Trustees  unanimously  record  their 
sense  of  their  own  obligations  and  that  of  the  public  generally  to  the  whole  medical  gentlemen 
for  their  liberal  conduct  in  having  hitherto  given  their  valuable  and  gratuitous  assistance  to 
the  commencing  endeavours  of  the  Trustees  to  bring  into  operation  the  benevolent  intentions 
of  the  respected  Founder  of  an  institution  so  long  felt  to  be  an  important  desideratum  in 
these  islands  in  cases  of  casuality  or  of  contagious  disease." 

The  Hospital  still  goes  on  doing  its  beneficent  work,  very  much  on  the  lines  laid  down  by 
the  first  Trustees.  The  foundation  provides  food  and  nursing  for  the  patients,  who  pay,  when 
they  can,  for  the  attendance  of  their  own  doctor. 

Its  capital  now  amounts  to  £8100,  yielding,  along  with  too  meagre  voluntary  contribu- 
tions, an  annual  income  of  somewhere  about  £400. 

Next  to  the  founder,  the  greatest  credit  is  due  to  the  late  Captain  Baikie,  of  the  National 
♦  Minute,  8th  Dec.  1845.  t  March. 


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THE  UPPER  LAVBBOCK,  857 

Bank,  for  bringing  the  Hospital  to  a  state  of  efficiency.  The  amoant  of  trouble  he  topk  and 
work  he  performed,  his  sole  reward  being  the  pleasure  of  doing  good,  oan  only  be  estimated 
by  perusing  the  books  which  he  kept,  and  noting  the  correspondence  which  he  had  during  the 
long  period  of  his  honorary  secretaryship.  The  personal  visits  of  the  Captain  and  Miss  Bf^iki^ 
the  latter  generally  carrying  some  little  delicacy  beyond  the  power  of  the  Hospital  kitohen, 
cheered  many  a  sick  bed. 

The  small  house  which  forms  the  south  wing  of  the  Hospital  was  first  let,  at  a  yearly  r^nt 
of  £8  lOs,  to  Mr  Kennedy,  officer  of  excise,  after  whom  it  was  for  a  number  of  years  occupied 
by  Mr  Craig,  Master  of  the  Qrammar  School  and  Burgh  Registrar. 

In  1677,  the  house  first  above  the  Hospital,  and  now  the  property  of  the  Trustees,  was 

occupied  by  Helen  Biohan,  widow  of  James  Black.    Black's  tombstone  stands  against  the 

wall  of  the  north  nave  aisle,  and  there  his  name  is  Jared,  which  was  probably  correct.     His 

neighbours,  however,  knew  him  as  James.    Thomas  Brown  makes  frequent  reference  to  him 

and  to  his  family.    His  epitaph  does  not  record  his  virtues.    These  are  to  be  inferred  from  the 

sculptured  lines  :— 

"  Corps  rest  in  peace  within  this  ground 
Until  Arcbangers  trumpet  sound  ; 
Soul  joy  above  till  thy  Creator's  micht 
Both  reunite  to  reign  with  saints  in  lioht." 

Behind  the  house  which  presently  fronts  the  street  on  the  site  of  Black's  tenement  stood 
a  cottage,  pulled  down  when  the  new  Fever  Hospital  was  built  This,  in  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century,  belonged  to  Robert  Millar,  gaoler. 

When  Millar  sold  his  house  to  the  Hospital  Trustees  it  was  so  bonded  that  only  £20  could 
be  paid  over  to  the  nominal  owner. 

Next  house  above,  now  the  property  of  Mrs  Liddell,  was,  in  1677,  owned  and  occupied  by 
William  Farquhar,  glover. 

Farquhar,  as  the  name  indicates,  came  from  the  south,  possibly  from  Perth,  the  cradle  of 
glovemaking  in  Scotland.  However  that  may  be,  he  found  business  in  the  far  north  so 
profitable  as  to  tempt  him  to  settle  in  Kirkwall.    He  married  Jean  Nicolson  and  had  issue. 

Farquhar  had  as  a  tenant  in  one  end  of  his  house  a  very  black  she^p,  Edward  Rind, 
weaver.  An  Orphir  woman  named  Smith,  a  relative  of  Rind's  wife,  came  to  town  one  market 
day  and  went  into  the  weaver's  house  to  rest.  She  lay  down  on  a  bed  and  slept  soundly. 
For  a  bet  of  a  pint  of  ale.  Rind,  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  committed  a  horrible  assault  on  her. 
The  poor  woman,  though  threatened  with  death  by  the  weaver  and  his  wife,  brought  them 
before  the  Magistrates.  The  provost  and  bailies  tried  the  case,  but,  having  no  precedent, 
were  puzzled,  and  docketed  the  report,  '*  This  to  be  thought  upon,"  meantime  committing  Rind 
to  prison.  What  their  ultimate  decision  was  is  not  known,  but  as  soon  as  he  got  out  of  jail 
the  Church  seized  him,  and  had  no  difficulty  in  the  matter.  The  Session  fined  him  and  shut 
him  up  in  Marwick's  Hole. 

S<mth  from  the  dwelling-house  of  Robert  Richan  already  noticed,  Robert  Pottinger  had, 
in  1677,  "  ane  great  ludgeing  laitlie  built  be  himself."  Robert  Pottinger  of  Howbister  was  the 
son  of  Edward  Pottinger  of  Howbister,  skipper  and  money-lender.  He  was  a  busy  merchant, 
.a  bailie  of  Kirkwall,  an  elder  of  the  church,  and,  as  has  been  incidentally  seen,  a  sympathising 
neighbour.    He  died,  1st  October  1679. 

At  the  back  of  the  three  last-mentioned  houses  is  Piper's  Quoy.  '*  William  Pottinger, 
Younger,  his  piece  of  waste  land  unmanured  being  ane  pendicle  of  the  town  and  lands  of 
Quoybanks,  called  the  Little  Park,  bounded,  distinguished,  and  meithed  as  is  after  ezprest, 
viz.,  from  the  said  dyke  running  east  and  west  from  Hornersquoy  upwards  towards  the  gleib 


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368  KIRKWALL  IN  T^E  ORKNEYS. 

lands  of  Quoybanks,  being  an  old  grass  steith  as  commonly  called  the  resting  dyke  on  the 
south  pairts  of  the  said  waist  ground,  and  the  tenements  of  lands  with  their  yairds  pertaining 
to  the  airis  of  Robert  Richan  and  the  airis  of  James  Black,  also  to  William  ffarquhar  on  the 
north  pairts  thereof,  the  common  road  or  highway  and  passage  from  the  east  side  of  the 
Laverock  of  Kirkwally  passing  between  the  arrable  lands  of  qttoybanks  and  the  said  tuaist 
ground  towards  the  meadow  of  Scapay  upon  the  east  pairt  thereof,  and  the  standing  dyke  of 
Hornersquoy  as  it  was  of  old  founded,  and  now  presently  standing  in  defence  of  the  grass  and 
corns  thereof,  with  the  several  windings  and  turnings  of  the  said  dyke  of  Hornersquoy  on  the 
west  pairt  of  the  said  waste  ground,  which  extends  in  lenth  from  north  to  south  to  the  number 
of  eight  score  faddoms,  and  in  breid  to  the  number  of  fuurty  faddoms  at  the  north  end,  and 
fourty-siz  faddoms  at  the  south  end,  corapting  six  foots  of  rule  to  the  faddom,  dyked  round 
about  in  all  quarters  with  feal  and  divot." 

This  is  described  in  the  titles  of  Thos.  Buchanan  of  Sandsyde  as  "  The  little  park  lyand 
a(i(jacent  with  the  land  of  Quoybanks,  called  Greentoft."  Pottinger's  tedious  description  shows 
that  there  was  a  Resting  Dyke  at  the  west  entrance  to  the  town  ;  it  points  out  the  run  of  the 
ancient  road  to  Scapa,  and  it  helps  to  explain  a  puzzling  local  name — Neukatineuks. 

The  house  above  Pottinger's  belonged  to  Thomas  Taylor,  and,  in  1677,  was  occupied  by 
his  widow,  Janet  Pottinger.  "  Katherine  Murray,  eldest  daughter  to  James  Murray,  Com- 
missary of  Zetland,  departed  this  life  in  the  house  of  Janet  Pottinger,  her  mother-in-law."* 
Above  this  last  house  an  open  burn  ran  down  to  the  Peerie  Sea.  The  course  of  the  stream  is 
now  covered,  but  the  water  still  runs,  and  the  point  where  it  reaches  the  street  is  known  as 
the  Gutter  Hole.    The  name  savours  of  antiquity,  but  it  does  not  appear  in  the  old  rentals. 

The  site  south  of  the  Gutter  Hole  was  acquired  by  George  Richan  of  Linklater  from 
Robert  Nicolson,  glazier,  and  here  in  1716  Richan  built  a  house,  doubtless  an  improvement  on 
his  father's  dwelling  three  doors  off.  The  very  elaborate  lintel  over  the  back  door  is  a  monu- 
ment to  the  filial  regard  George  Richan  had  for  his  parents  ;  he  puts  their  initials  above  his 
own  and  his  wife's.t  "I.D."  is  Isobel  Dick,  his  second  wife.  The  first  Mrs  Richan  was 
Elspeth  Mudie,  and  the  third  Anne  Ritchie.  The  last  of  the  family  who  occupied 
this  house  was  Miss  Isobel  Richan,  locally  known  as  Miss  Tibby  Richan.  That  she  must 
have  been  a  lady  of  marked  character  is  evident  from  the  fact  that,  while  the  lady  herself  has 
long  been  gone,  Tibby  Richan  is  a  name  familiarly  known  in  Kirkwall  at  the  present  day. 

In  Captain  Richan's  titles  the  house  is  described  as  "  the  old  tenement  belonging  to  their 
sister  Isabella,  having  houses  and  garden  of  Robert  Nicolson,  Writer,  west ;  houses  and  yards 
of  Robert  Flett,  musician,  and  Nicol  Wishart,  Orphir,  east ;  a  common  passage  and  Horners- 
quoy, south  ;  and  the  King's  high  street,  north.  Robert  Flett,  musician,  and  his  fiddle  were 
in  request  at  dances  and  weddings  in  Kirkwall  and  the  neighbourhood  about  the  middle  of 
the  present  century,  and  are  remembered  by  many  now  living. 

The  **Wisharts  of  Orphir"  have  held  land  in  Kirbister  for  more  than  a  couple  of 
centuries. 

Robert  Nicolson's  house,  now  known  as  the  Castle,  is  the  first  house  entered  in  the 
Records  of  Sasine.  The  doorway  leading  into  the  little  courtyard  shows  how  much  the  level 
of  the  street  has  risen  since  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century. 

This  house,  or  more  probably  one  on  the  same  site,  "was  formerly  possessed  by  Jean 
Davidson,  alias  Harray,  daughter  of  William  Davidson,  alias  Harray,  eldest  son  and  air  of 
Hugh  Davidson,  alias  Harray,  wha  bought  the  same  from  John  Banks,  son  of  Alaster  Banks, 
and  oy  and  air  of  umql  William  Good  Coupar,  Indweller  ther  sometime,  few  fermorer  herit- 
able thereof  sett  in  heretable  few  ferm  to  him,  his  aires  and  assegs.  by  the  deceast  Robert, 
*  T.  B.,  3rd  Sept.  1687.  t  See  page  361. 


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THE  UPPEB   LAVEROCK.  359 

Earl  of  Orkney,  then  styllit  Robert  Stewart,  fewar  of  Orknay  and  Zetland,  with  the  house  and 
yaird  then  built  thereupon  as  in  the  said  few  charter  grantit  to  the  said  Wm.  Good  thereupon 
of  the  daitt  at  Kirkwall,  the  twentie  day  of  September  the  year  of  Gk)d  ane  thousand  fyfe 
hundred  three  scoir  years/' 

Robert  Nicolson*s  memory  is  preserved  in  the  inscription  on  the  "  mort-brod "  which 
hangs  in  the  north  aisle  of  the  nave  of  the  Cathedral.  While  Robert  was  an  inhabitant  of  this 
lower  world  he  sometimes  lost  command  of  his  temper.    "Robert  Nicolsou,  Glazier  in  the 

said  town,  did,  upon  the Day  December  last  by  past,  in  a  sad  and  cruell  manner, 

with  his  hands  and  ane  drawn  sword,  in  the  night  tyme,  upon  the  street  of  Kirkwall,  near  or 
about  the  tolbuith  of  the  said  Brugh,  Beat,  blood,  bruise,  wound,  and  abuse  the  said  John 
Adome,  complainer,  in  the  back,  head,  hands,  and  severall  other  parts  of  his  body,  to  the 
efuision  of  his  blood  in  Learge  and  great  quantities."*  Fined  £50  Scots.  Another  time  "the 
said  Robert  Niculson  did  beat,  bruise,  blood,  and  abuse  Patrick  Hay,  pewtherar  in  the  said 
town,  in  the  arm  and  other  places  of  his  body."  One  of  the  glazier's  daughters,  Ursulla, 
married  Patrick  Adamson,  mason,  the  man  who  sold  his  father's  tombstone. 

Robert  Nicolson  left  his  house  to  his  sons,  Robert  and  James.  The  former  succeeded  also 
to  his  father's  business. 

Thomas  Brown,  with  some  suspicion  of  scorn,  writes  : — "  Robert  Nicolson,  Glazier,  was 
married  to  Mary  Mairch,  the  daughter  of  ane  Englishman."  f 

In  1692,  Robert  liferented  his  wife  in  half  of  the  house,  from  which  it  may  be  inferred 
that  James  Nicolson  or  his  family  still  retained  the  other  half. 

The  last  of  the  direct  line  of  Nicolsons  to  occupy  this  house  was  Robert,  Sheriff-Substitute 
of  Orkney.  Of  him  Dr  Traill  of  Woodwick,  in  the  introduction  to  his  "  Genealogy  of  the 
Orkney  Traills,"  writes  : — "  Robert  Nicolson,  Sheriff-Substitute  of  Orkney,  made  up  'Family 
Trees '  for  several  Orkney  gentlemen  more  than  70  years  ago  ;  but,  considering  the  abundant 
materials  he  had  access  to  in  the  shape  of  letters  and  documents  suitable  for  such  a  purpose, 
it  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  he  prepared  them  in  such  a  careless,  if  not  reckless  manner, 
that  they  were  full  of  errors  and  quite  untrustworthy."  Very  many  family  trees  are  full 
of  errors  and  quite  untrustworthy,  but  regarding  those  reared  under  Sheriff  Nicolson's  care 
that  gentleman  was  perfectly  frank,  for  when  asked  by  a  friend  how  he  got  hold  of  the  lost 
links  in  a  genealogical  chain,  he  humorously  replied,  "  I  forge  them." 

In  a  letter  addressed  to  the  Crown  Chamberlain,  Mr  Graham,  Sheriff  Nicolson  gives  a 
brief  account  of  his  public  life  : — 

"  Kirkwall,  Srd  Deoember  1830. 

**  Sir, — I  beg  to  address  you  and  to  state  that  I  have  been  employed  in  the  service  of  the  public 
all  my  lifetime. 

"  Of  the  date,  1786,  I  was  appointed  Sheriff  Clerk  and  Clerk  of  Supply  for  the  County  of  Orkney. 

**  I  was  appointed,  1793,  Capt.  Lieutenant,  Paymaster  and  Adjutant  of  the  Orkney  and  Shetland 
Fencibles,  and  on  the  disbanding  of  these  I  was  appointed  Major  of  the  Orkney  Volunteers. 

**  I  was  appointed,  1795,  Sheriff  Substitute,  Justice  of  the  Peace,  Commissioner  of  Supply,  and  a 
8|^cial  Commissioner  for  the  redemption  of  the  Land  Tax,  and  altho  the  important  duties  of  this 
office  devolved  chieflv  on  me,  I  had  no  allowance  therefore. 

"As  Sheriff-Substitute  I  served  under  the  present  Lord  President  $  and  the  present  Lord 
Advocate  §  while  they  were  Sheriffs  of  Orkney,  and  also  under  the  laXe  Lord  Kinnaider,  ||  until  I  with 
his  approbation  resigned,  1814,  on  account  of  the  bad  state  of  health  I  was  in  at  the  time,  trusting  to 
a  pension  which  his  Lordship  seemed  confident  I  would  obtain  for  my  long  services.  My  Honole. 
Constituents  certified  in  my  favors.  The  Freeholders  of  the  County  and  Magistrates  of  the  Burgh 
recommended  my  application  to  the  Treasury,  and  the  Members  of  Parliament  for  both  presented  and 
supported  the  same  to  their  outmost.  But  unfortunately  there  beins;  no  Law  or  Precedent  sanctioning 
the  granting  of  pensions  to  Sheriff  Substitutes,  their  Lordships  found  accordingly,  but  apparently  with 
regret. 

•  T.  B.,  29th  June  1683.        +  Diary,  10th  Nov.  1684. 
t  Rt.  Hon.  Ilay  Campbell  of  Succoth.       §  Rt.  Hon.  Robert  Dundas  of  Amiston.        ||  Sheriff  Erskine. 


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860  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

<*  Daring  th<s  war  I  lent  many  Beuhen  to  the  Navy  from  this  County,  for  which  I  rBCtiT«d  ih* 
approbation  of  the  Admiralty.  • 

"  For  procuring  supplies  from  Grovemment  for  the  poor  in  times  of  scarcity,  I  received  thd 
thanks  of  the  Synod  of  Orkney. 

"By  order  of  the  Right  Honble.  the  Barons  of  Exchequer,  I  made  up  the  Valuation  Book  of 
Orkney,  now  in  their  Chambers,  for  which  their  Lordships  were  pleased  to  grant  me  One  hundred 
Guineas. 

*'  And  to  them  I  submitted  the  first  Memorial  on  the  subject  of  the  Bishopric  of  Orkney. 

"  Since  my  resignation  of  the  Substitution  I  have  rendered  my  litUe  serrioes  as  a  Justice  and 
Commissioner  of  Supply  without  any  emolument. 

"  I  now  wish  to  retire  to  some  convenient  situation  in  the  Country.  That  part  of  the  Bishopric 
Lands  of  Glaitneas  called  the  North- West  enclosure  would  suit  me,  and  for  a  lease  of  it  I  now  beg  to 
apply.  I  will  cheerfully  give  what  may  be  deemed  an  adequate  Rent,  and  if  the  Crown  will  be  at 
the  expense  of  erecting  a  small  cottage  and  suitable  offices  thereon,  say  to  the  extent  of  £100  or  £160, 
I  will  pay  the  usual  percentage  on  the  outlay,  or  I  will  undertake  to  execute  them  and  also  to  enclose 
the  side  of  the  sroiind  next  the  sea  with  a  substantial  stone  dyke,  at  my  own  expense,  providing  it  is 
agreed  I  shall  be  allowed  the  value  of  these  improvements,  as  the  same  may  be  asoertained  on  the 
expiry  of  the  lease  or  my  removal  from  the  premisses. 

''Will you  have  the  goodness  to  transmit  this  to  your  Right  Honble.  Constituents.  If  their 
Lordships  are  pleased  to  grant  me  a  Lease,  I,  the  moment  I  am  so  authorised,  will  proofed  with  the 
■ooessary  builaings,  in  order  to  possess  them  as  soon  as  possible.  I  should  like  to  lay  down  the  crop 
the  ensumg  season,  and  I  presume  Mr  Erskine,  the  present  possessor,  would  have  no  objection  to  my 
doing  so.    I  am,  most  respectfully.  Sir,  Your  most  Obedient  humble  Servant, 

"(Signed)       Robkrt  Nioolsov. 
'*  Thomas  Graham,  Esquire, 
"  Factor  over  the  Bishopric  of  Orkney,  Crantit." 

This  memorial  he  enclosed  in  a  letter  to  Mr  Qraham  :— 

<*  St  OUa,  3d  December  18.30. 
**  Dear  Sir, — Will  3rou  have  the  goodness  to  transmit  the  enclosed.     The  Sir  Joseph  *  still  lies. 
**  If  you  approve  oif  it  I  will  wrfte  my  friend  the  Lord  Advocate.     I  do  think  he  would  interest 
himself  on  my  uehalf. — I  am  respectfully.  Dear  Sir,  your  much  obliged  humble  Servant^ 

**  (Signed)        RoBEKT  Nicolron. 
<*  Thomas  Graham,  Esquire." 

How  Mr  Graham  answered  Sheriff  Nicolson's  letter  does  not  appear,  but  it  is  certain  that 
he  did  not  forward  the  petition. 

Sheriff  Nicoison  married  Elizabeth  Balfour,  and  their  daughter,  Margaret,  married  Lieut. 
James  Millar,  of  Stroitiness.  The  command  of  the  "*  Cyaiie  "  devolved  on  Lieuteniant  Jdsepk 
Millar,  "  when,  in  1809,  she  engaged,  in  the  Bay  of  Naples,  and  under  the  guns  of  the  enemy's 
batteries,  a  large  French  frigate,  a  sloop  of  war,  and  a  number  of  gunboats.  Millar  continued 
the  action  for  l^ivt^lKiMqaNlKidHwfnty  minutes^  till c^tbe  frigate  went  down,  when  he  conducted 
the  *  Cyane '  safe  home."  t 

The  old  house  of  the  Nicolsons  passed  for  a  time  to  Robert  Qroat,  M.D.,  of  Newhali,  but 
it  was  bought  back  by  descendants  of  Lieutenant  Millar,  and  it  still  remains  in  possession  of 
that  branch  of  the  family.  When  Dr  Gkx)at  had  it  he  made  application  to  the  Town 
Council  for  a  piece  of  ground  lying  contiguous  to  his,  and  which,  apparently,  was  ownerless. 
Tbe  proprietor  was  publicly  called  for  at  ''the  most  patent  door  of  the  Kirk,''  and  at  tke 
market  cross,  and  on  his  non-appearance  the  plot  was  given  to  the  applicant,  but  at  what 
price  is  not  shown.  This  was  the  triangular  yard  popularly  known  as  the  *'  Cocked  Hat," 
through  which  the  new  Scapa  road  was  cut. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  family  mansion  one  of  the  Nicolsons  had  built  a  large  tenement 
This,  in  the  first  decade  of  the  present  century,  was  occupied  by  Mrs  Frances  Balfour,  widow 
of  Thomas  Balfour  of  Elwick,  already  referred  to  as  Dr  Balfour,  and  Colonel  of  the  North 
Lowland  Regiment  of  Fencibles. 

*  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  sailing  packet.        t  Dr  Clouston  of  Sandwick. 


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THE  UPPER   LAVEROCK.  361 

In  1810,  Mrs  Balfour  bought  from  Robert  Nicolsoii  the  **  dwelling-house  with  the  small 
garden  belonging  to  it,  together  with  the  byre  adjoining,  presently  possessed*  by  the  said  Mrs 
Balfour." 

"  That  piece  of  waste  ground  in  the  Laverock  opposite  to  the  house  formerly  belonging  to 
and  possest  by  Miss  Barbara  Richan,  in  the  Clay  loan,  measuring  19  feet  of  rule  in  breadth, 
and  225  feet  of  rule  in  length,  with  the  whole  houses  built  thereon,"  belonged,  in  1684,  to 
Robert  Erskine  and  his  wife,  Marion  Sinclair,  from  whom  it  passed  into  the  hands  of 
Alexander  Stewart  of  Massater, 

The  house  between  the  above  and  the  garden  of  the  Balfour  Hospital  was,  in  1806,  sold 
by  John  Gibson  of  Corse  to  his  brother,  George  Gibson,  dyer,  one  of  the  last  of  the  great 
litsters  of  Kirkwall.  This  double  tenement  was  formerly  two  properties.  The  proprietor  of 
the  northmost  part,  away  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  was  Thomas  Maine^ 
wh(mi  we  find  witnessing  a  declaration  of  young  Mudie  of  Melsetter  repudiating  some  of  the 
money  transactions  of  his  f«ather,  the  "Wanton  Francis." 

From  Maine's  heirs  it  wjis  acquired  by  Walter  Taiylor,  weaver.  In  March  1678,  Taylor 
died,  leaving  the  house  to  his  daughter,  Marjorie,  and  her  husband,  Thomas  Br(»wn,  Notary 
Public,  who  by  and  by  secured  the  southern  part.  To 
Brown,  Kirkwall  is  deeply  indebted  for  the  light  he 
throws  on  the  social  life  of  the  town  two  hundred 
years  ago.  He  kept  a  diary  in  which  ho  noted  pa.ssing 
events.  This  diary  was  found  by  the  late  Mr  Petrie 
among  the  papers  of  Mr  Gra3me  of  Graemeshall.  It 
is  contained  in  a  small,  black,  oblong  note  book,  and, 
being  of  a  convenient  size,  it  seems  to  have  been 
systematically  used,  leaf  by  leaf,  for  shaving  paper  by 
some  one  who  did  not  know  its  value.  What  is  left  of  it  takes  in  the  period  fnmi 
16th  January  1675  to  25th  May  1693.  While  much  of  it,  from  its  nature,  is  nece.s.sarily  a 
record  of  trivial  occurrences,  i)arts  of  it  are  of  much  importance,  and  in  one  point  Thomas 
Brown  shows  where  Macaulay  has  made  a  slight  error.  It  had  been  arranged  that,  while 
Monmouth  raised  an  insurrection  in  the  south  of  England,  Argyle  should  return  from  Holland 
with  what  force  he  could  muster  there  and  attempt  a  rebellion  in  Scotland.  Writing  of  this, 
Macaulay  says  ; — "  The  voyage  was  prosperous.  On  6th  May  the  Orkneys  were  in  sight. 
Argyle  very  unwisely  aiirJtored  off  Kirkwall  and  allowed  two  of  his  followers  to  go  on  shore 
there.  The  Bishop  ordered  them  to  be  arrested.  The  refugees  proceeded  to  hold  a  long  and 
animated  debate  on  this  misadventure.  Some  were  for  an  attack  on  Kirkwall.  Some  were 
for  proceeding  without  delay  to  Argyleshire.  At  last  the  Earl  seized  scmie  gentlemen  who 
lived  near  the  coast  of  the  Island,  and  proposed  to  the  Bishop  an  exchange  of  prisoners. 
The  Bihhop  returned  no  answer,  and  the  fleet,  after  losing  three  days,  sailed  away."  Under 
date  6th  May  1685,  Brown  writes  :--"  Wednesday,  at  night,  Two  of  Argyle's  Servants, 
the  ane  called  Mr  William  Blacketter  and  the  other  Mr  William  Spence,  came  from  oft  a 
great  vessel  of  his  and  landed  at  Smockgrow,  and  from  thence  came  to  Kirkwall  the  said 
night,  and  being  known  that  they  were  servants  to  a  Rebel,  they  wes,  by  the  magistrates, 
ordered  to  remain  in  their  quarters  as  prisoners  till  further  orders  from  the  Privy  Counsell, 
and,  by  the  order  irf  :Breckness,  they  were  sent  out  of  Kirkwall  with  a  pairty,  the  29th  of  the 
said  month  of  May,  to  S.  Margaret's  Hi)pe,  to  go  alongst  with  Skipper  Byttie,  then  bound  for 
Leith." 

fVotin  tbis.we  see  that  Argyle  did  uotanehor  off  Kirkwall    Wiiere  he  most  probably  did 

*  Occupied. 

3a 


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362  KIRKWALL   IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

Iinchor  was  Longhope,  from  which  he  sent  a  boat  to  Smoogro  in  Orphir  with  his  emissaries. 
The  Bishop  did  not  interfere  in  the  matter,  but  very  properly  left  the  catte  to  the  civil 
authorities.  Thomas  Brown  had  to  know  this,  as  he  was  Town  Clerk.  Harry  Graham  of 
Breckness  evidently  corresponded  with  the  Privy  Council. 

Brown  was  a  devoted  admirer  of  Bishop  Murdoch,  and  no  public  act  of  his  would  have 
been  kept  out  of  sight  by  the  diarist.  Brown  was  at  this  time  Kirk  Treasurer  and  an  elder. 
**  Thomas  Brown  being  called  to  come  to  Session,  comperes  and  accepts  of  the  Charge  of 
Church  Thesaurer,  and  to  serve  gratis."  ♦  He  saw  with  indignation  the  treatment  which  the 
Cathedral  ministers  suffered  at  the  hands  of  the  local  representative  of  the  Crown—**  Robert 
Elphingston  caused  Robert  Arskyne  to  make  intimation  to  Mr  John  Wilson,  minister,  that  he 
should  cist  from  preaching  the  word,  and  for  so  doing  God  in  his  ain  time  will  visit  him  with 
some  signal  judgement."  t 

Mr  Wilson  did  not  at  once  "cist  from  preaching  the  word,"  so  there  was  friction  between 
the  Cathedral  and  the  Palace.  Robert  Elphingston,  as  Stewart  of  Orkney  and  Shetland,  had 
intimation  from  Government  that  a  day  had  been  appointed  for  a  national  fast.  Instead  of 
giving  this  to  the  minister  to  intimate  from  the  pulpit,  he  sent  his  clerk,  Robert  Erskine,  to 
proclaim  it  at  the  Market  Cross.  J  Elphingston  himself  attempted  to  proclaim  this  fast  in 
the  church  without  the  consent  of  Mr  Wilson,  but  **  he  was  impeaded  in  his  coming  to  the 
pulpit,  and  retired  out  of  the  church  with  more  reproach  and  contempt  than  he  had  pleasure 
to  attend  the  same."  S 

Brown  thus  records  the  death  of  his  neighbour — **  Sabbath,  about  4  in  the  afternoon  or 
thereby,  Robt.  Arskyne  dej)d.  this  life."  **  Memento— that  the  Saturday  immediately  before, 
he  came  with  Lopness  from  Zetland  in  the  morning,  about  9  or  10  hours  or  thereby,  and  about 
ane  in  the  afternoon  the  said  day,  he  came  ashore  to  Kirkwall  and  was  carried  by  four 
workmen  in  ane  arm  chair  from  that  to  his  house,  because  of  his  infirmities  and  weakness."  || 
No  d()ul)t  the  diarist  regarded  this  as  a  fulfilment  of  his  own  prediction  when  Erskine  ordered 
Mr  WilscMi  to  desist  from  preaching — **  for  so  doing,  God  in  his  ain  time  will  visit  him  with 
some  signal  judgement." 

Brown  did  not  live  to  see  the  time  w^hen  his  respected  minister  was  compelled  to  **  cist" 
preaching  the  Word,  but  from  his  pew  under  the  Magistrates'  loft  he  enjoyed  the  weekly  services 
till  the  end  of  the  year  1693.  His  last  appearance  at  a  meeting  of  Session  was  the  7th  December 
of  that  year.  He  had  two  sons,  Arthur,  born  1676,  and  Thomas,  2nd  October  1678.  The 
former  seems  to  have  died  young,  and  the  latter  was  dead  in  1719,  for,  in  October  of  that  year, 
the  diarist's  two  daughters,  Anna  and  Isobel,  claim  from  the  Magistrates  infeftment  in  their 
late  brother's  half  of  the  house.  H 

After  Brown's  time,  this  house  was  occupied  by  Andrew  Chalmers,  horse-hirer.  In  the 
old  roadless  days,  Orcadians  had  three  methods  of  transporting  themselves  from  place  to  place 
— they  could  walk,  ride,  or  sail.  Horse-hirers  and  boatmen  had  liberal  patronage.  The  hires 
two  hundred  years  ago,  the  relative  value  of  money  then  and  now  being  taken  into  account, 
were  much  the  same  as  at  present.  Take  a  sample,  not  from  Andrew  Chalmers,  but  from 
another  in  the  same  line  of  business,  Arthur  Sinclair.  Sinclair  was  doubtful  of  the  neatness 
of  his  style  of  book-keeping,  and  sent  his  bill  to  Bailie  Kaa  for  revision  : — 

**  A  compt.  of  hers  hirs  restand  be  William  Sutherland  to  me,  Arthur  Sinclair.  Item,  rastand  be 
him  for  the  yeeir  of  God  700,  on  hire  to  Stronmesa,  and  on  to  hara  and  sandweke,  and  on  to  Hollm, 
and  on  to  Neworke,  this  is  within  the  forsaid  yeair  alone  ;  and  in  the  yeair  of  God  7001  to  Stromness 
two  tymes,  and  to  Neworke,  in  Deirness,  once,  to  Holm  once,  and  to  firth  and  eiveie  once,  and  to 

*  S.  R.,  23rd  Dec.  1689.  t  25th  Oct.  1690.  t  See  ante,  p.  161. 

§  Diary,  18th  Jan.  1691.  11  2?th  Mar.  1691.  IT  C.  R.,  30th  Oct.  1719. 


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THE   UPPER  LAVEROCK. 

StromnesB,  when  he  was  aboat  the  byinge  of  his  shop,  twiss  ;  now  all  this  hie  rests  me  for,  and  he  had' 
the  ridinge  of  my  hors  both  out  and  in.     80,  if  he  will  tkgrie  with  you  upon  resonabll  Terms,  I  shall 
be  content,  and,  if  otherwiss,  I  shall  be  at  the  pains  to  Charge  him  befor  the  Sew  vail  judge,  and  theri 
he  shall  depon  what  he  is  suthly  restand  to  me  ;  it  corns  to  9  pounds  Scots  in  hall. 
«<  For  Bailie  Kea,  in  Kirkwall." 

The  Bailie  evidently  did  not  think  that  Mr  Sutherland  had  been  overcharged.  He  wrote., 
out  the  account  in  a  very  neat  hand,  charging  each  separate  item,  and  brought  the  amount  up» 
to  £10  Scots.  To  Stromness  and  back  was  twenty-four  shillings,  to  and  from  Harray  and, 
Sandwick  the  same,  Evie  sixteen  shillings,  Deemess  fourteen,  and  Holm  six.  The  kind  of 
horse  used  would  be  the  native  Orkney  "  garron,"  a  small,  hardy  cob,  now  almost  extinct. 

South  from  Brown's  house,  built  on  the  waste  ground  of  the  Horse  Market,  was  a  house, 
which  belonged  to  the  Burgh,  occupied  by  Harry  Spence.  Harry  brewed  and  sold  strong  ale^ 
and  William  Farquhar  got  into  trouble  with  the  Session  for  drinking  in  this  house  with  that 
notorious  person,  Christian  Poison,  better  known  as  Highland  Cristen.  For  some  ten  or 
twelve  years  this  woman  was  one  of  the  most  troublesome  vagrants  the  Magistrates  of 
Kirkwall  had  to  deal  with.  Their  last  handling  of  her  shows  how  the  civic  rulers  could  inflict 
punishment  when  they  rose  to  the  occasion.  After  fining  about  a  dozen  people  in  Kirkwall 
and  the  neighbourhood  for  giving  her  food  or  drink,  they  pass  sentence  on  herself  : — 

"  Kirkwall,  23rd  April  1703. 
*'  The  Stewart  and  Justiciar  Depute  of  Orkney  and  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  sitting  in 
judgement,  Haveine  considered  the  Indytment  with  the  former  Acts  of  Banishment  standing  in  force 
against  the  paunelT,  and  being  therewith  weill  and  rightly  advysed,  and  efter  serious  ana  mature 
deliberatione  hade  be  them  thereupon  to  the  full.  They  not  only  ratifie  and  corroborat  the  former  acts 
of  banishment  standing  in  force  against  the  said  pannell,  but  also  they  find  the  said  panuell  hes 
contraveened  the  former  acts  of  banishment  by  lurking  within  the  Town  and  Countray,  and  finds  her 
to  be  a  vagabond,  sorner,  and  deluder  of  the  people.  Thairfore  they  appoynt  and  ordaine  the  pannell 
pntly.  to  be  conveyed  be  the  hand  of  the  Lockman,  attended  with  the  Stewart  and  Town  officers,  to 
the  shoir  of  Kirkwall,  and  there  to  receive  eight  whips  with  ane  tow  or  cord  on  the  naked  shoulders^ 
eight  at  the  Bridge,  eight  at  Sound's  great  Lodging,  eight  at  the  Mercat  Croce,  and  there  appoints  the 
Lockman  to  burn  her  upon  the  one  cheek  with  the  Stewart's  marking  Iron,  and  upon  the  other  cheek 
with  the  Town's  marking  Iron,  and  therefter  appoints  the  Lockman  to  ^ive  her  eight  stryps  with  hia 
whip  at  the  head  of  the  Broad  street,  eight  at  Arthur  Murray's  house,  eight  at  the  Broad  Sands,  and 
eight  at  the  head  of  the  town,  and  therefter  appoynts  her  to  be  returned  to  the  ToUbuith,  there  to 
remaine  whill  she  be  convoyed  to  the  Ferrie  by  the  officers,  and  banishes  the  panuell  of  the  Countray 
of  new  agaiiie,  never  to  be  seen  herein  under  the  paine  of  death,  and  ordanis  her  haill  moveable  goods 
and  gear  to  be  escheat  and  inbrought  to  her  Majestie's  use  ;  and  this  I,  David  Wood,  Lockman,  gives- 
the  pannell  for  doom." 

If  Queen  Anne  left  Christian  Poison  the  clothes  in  which  she  stood,  not  much  would  be 
**  inbrought  for  her  Majesty's  use."  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  David  Wood,  lockman,  handled  his 
whip  lightly  in  giving  the  wretched  woman  her  sixty-four  lashes  "  on  the  naked  shoulders "; 
as  for  the  branding  irons,  he  could  not  spare  her,  they  had  to  leave  legible  impressions. 

Spence*s  house  belonging  to  the  Burgh  must  have  been  bought  by  Thomas  Brown,  as  his 
daughter,  Isobel,  with  consent  of  her  husband,  Magnus  Cromarty,  merchant,  Stromness,  sold 
it,  altmg  with  her  father's  dwelling-house,  to  Donald  Groat  of  NewhalL 

The  site  of  Thomas  Brown's  double  tenement  is  now  occupied  by  a  house  belonging  to* 
the  daughters  of  Mr  Heddle,  late  farmer  in  Green  wall,  Holm.  Here,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
present  century,  two  ladies.  Misses  Margaret  and  Henrietta  Moodie,  kept  a  school,  attended 
chiefly  by  daughters  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants  of  town  and  county.  Margaret  was  born  in 
May  1756,  and  Henrietta,  December  1758.  They  lived  to  a  great  age,  and  in  their  later  days 
were  much  indebted  to  the  kindness  of  the  late  John  Heddle,  Esq.  of  Melsetter. 

Up  past  the  Hospital  garden  was  a  piece  of  waste  ground  belonging  to  the  town,  and 
rented  by  Robert  Eichan.    Next  this,  in  1677,  was  Robert  Pottinger's  dwelling-house,  just 


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364  KIKKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

opposite  the  ''great  lodging"  which  he  had  built  and  let.  Lastly,  on  this  side  of  the  street^ 
the  heirs  of  Thomas  Taylor  had  a  house  with  its  kailyard  and  peat  brae.  The  eastern  part  of 
'Faylor's  tenement  came  into  the  possession  of  Mr  James  Shearer,  merchant,  whose  successors 
sold  it  to  its  present  owner,  Mr  William  Firth,  builder.  The  western  portion  had  been 
acquired  by  Groat  of  Newhall,  who  enclosed  it  and  made  a  garden  of  it.  Between  the  garden 
and  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  stood  a  little  thatched  house — slated  in  its  latter  days — 
which,  before  its  removal,  was  occupied  by  Balfour  Allan.  This  man,  for  many  years,  was 
carrier  between  Kirkwall  and  Stromness.  The  first  Stromness  carrier  was  a  man  named 
Thomas  Grott,  who  made  a  weekly  journey. 

In  1707  the  Orkney  Presbyteries  were  congratulated  by  the  General  Assembly  on  having 
only  one  papist  within  their  bounds  ;  while  in  1716  that  one  had  departed  and  left  no 
successor. 

About  the  middle  of  the  present  century  a  few  Catholics,  mostly  from  Ireland,  engaged 
in  itinerant  business  among  the  Orkney  and  Shetland  Islands,  settled  in  Kirkwall  and 
Lerwick.  To  them  an  earnest  man,  the  Rev.  CM.  Verstraeten,  came  as  a  missionary.  These 
islands  fall  within  the  sphere  of  what  is  known  in  the  Church  of  Rome  as  the  North  Pole 
Missitm.  Father  Verstraeten  devoted  himself  to  this  field  of  usefulness,  making  Lerwick  his 
headquarters,  and  when  he  died  he  left  his  worldly  wealth  for  the  furtherance  of  the  work. 
For  a  time  the  missitm  was  wrought  from  Wick,  first  by  the  Rev.  Donald  Chisholm  and  after- 
wards by  Father  Mann  ;  but  in  1877  the  Right  Reverend  John  McDonald,  D»)ctor  of  Divinity, 
Bishop  of  Nicopolis— a  see  m  partihvs  infidelium—WcuT  Apostolic  of  the  Northern  District 
of  Scotland,  resolved  to  erect  in  Kirkwall  a  church  and  parsonage.  Groat's  garden,  which  had 
now  become  the  prc»perty  of  Robert  Scarth  of  Binscarth,  was  purchased  for  the  Bishop  by 
Peter  Rdss,  of  the  Castle  H<itel,  Kirkwall.  In  Groat's  garden,  Bishop  M 'Donald  erected  his 
church  and  manse,  the  modest  buildings  contrasting  most  markedly  with  the  Cathedral  and 
Palace  of  Rome's  palmy  days. 

From  1877  the  work  of  this  section  of  the  North  Pole  Mission  has  been  carried  on  by  a 
series  of  deservedly  popular  men,  the  Reverend  Fathers  Bisset,  Henderson,  Slorach,  and 
M'Donald,  the  only  complaint  of  each  being  the  lightness  of  the  pastoral  labour  owing  to  the 
sraallness  of  the  flock. 

The  street  which  straggles  from  the  head  of  the  town  along  the  old  Scapa  road  is 
comparatively  new  and  of  little  interest.  The  houses  were  built  at  different  times  on  feus  off 
Horner.s(|Uoy.  The  name  of  the  former  owners  of  the  ground  is  commemorated  in  Nicolson 
Street.  Number  12  Wellington  Street  was  built  by  Mr  Cropland  *  teacher,  and  is  still  occupied 
by  his  daughter  and  her  husband,  Mr  Robert  Reid.  Better  known  to  the  present  generation 
than  Mr  Copland,  was  his  son  James,  late  Deputy  Curator  of  the  Historical  Department  in  the 
Regi.ster  Honse,  lulin burgh. 

Ab(»ut  the  middle  of  Wellington  Street,  Burgar's  Bay,  an  unsavoury  recess,  was  formerly 
regarded  as  the  up-thc-gates'  goal  for  the  New  Year's  ba*.  A  crooked  lane  leading  from  the 
back  of  this  street  to  the  Clay  Loan  is  popularly  known  as  the  Neukatineuks. 

On  the  old  Stromness  road,  just  beyond  the  point  where  it  leaves  the  Orphir  road,  is  a 
house  t<»  which  sonie  interest  attaches.  On  the  17th  July  1787,  a  meeting  of  the  Magistrates, 
Ministers  of  Kirkwall,  and  Heritors  of  St  Ola  was  called  "for  the  purpose  of  having  a  Charity 
School  established."  "  Mr  Barry,  one  of  the  ministers  of  Kirkwall,  informed  the  meeting 
that,  agreeable  to  their  desire  expressed  in  a  letter  to  him  on  the  3rd  of  April  la.st,  he,  when  at 
Edinburgh,  had  represented  to  the  Rev.  Sir  Harry  Moncrieff  and  the  Rev.  Dr  Macfarlane, 

*  See  anttf  p.  277. 


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THE  UPPER  LAVEROCK.  365 

two  of  the  members  of  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge,*  the  distress  and 
melancholy  condition  many  poor  poople  in  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall  and  parish  of  St  Ola  were' 
in  for  want  of  education  to  their  children,  of  which  they  had  great  numbers."  Mr  Barry 
states  tliat  he  "  had  good  reason  to  expect  that  a  salary  of  ten  pounds  would  immediately  be 
given  to  a  man  for  the  purpose  of  enabling  him  to  teach  the  poor  children  in  Kirkwall  and  St 
Ola,  on  condition  the  Magisti^tes  and  Heritors  at  their  own  expense  would  provide  for  him  a 
house  and  schoolhouse,  a  kailyard,  a  cow's  grass,  and  such  other  things  as  the  regulations  of 
the  Society  required.''  "  Patrick  Haggart,  one  of  their  number,  instantly  made  offer  of  Glett- 
ness  for  three  years  free  of  rent,  a  house  abundantly  large  for  both  house  and  schoolhouse, 
with  the  kailyard  thereto  belonging,  well  situated  for  the  purpose  in  the  vicinity  of  Kirkwall 
and  parish  of  St  Ola  above  mentioned."  The  school  was  started,  but  at  the  end  of  the  three 
years  a  fresh  arrangement  w^as  required. 

At  a  meeting  of  Session,  3rd  Feb.  1800,  "  The  moderator  intimated  that  he  had  received  a 
letter  from  Dr  Kemp,  Secretaiy  to  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge,  signifying 
that  he  had  a  conversation  with  Lord  Dundas  on  the  subject  of  a  charity  school  for  the  i)arish, 
who  has  expressed  his  willingness  to  accommodate  the  paiish  with  the  house  possessed  by  the 
late  schoolmaster.  Dr  Kemp  at  the  same  time  thought  proper  that  Lord  Dundas  should  be 
wrote  to  on  the  subject."  On  the  7th  of  April  "  Mr  Yule  reiwrted  that  he  had  received  a 
letter  from  Ix)rd  Dundas  signifying  that  he  readily  acquiesced  in  the  Session's  request 
respecting  the  house  presently  possessed  by  Robert  Skethaway."  On  the  28th  April,  after 
examination,  it  is  reported  "  that  the  Schoolhouse  cannot  be  rebuilt  for  a  sum  less  than  £50  or 
£55."  The  Trustees  on  the  Stewart  estate  offered  £20,  and  the  work  went  forward,  the 
Session  resolving  to  take  the  balance  from  the  funds  of  the  church,  which  would  be  partly 
repaid  from  the  proceeds  of  "an  extraordinary  collection." 

When  Lord  Dundas  gave  this  concession  he  held  a  lease  of  the  bishopric  lands  then 
belonging  to  the  Crown,  but  in  1832  the  Crown  lands  in  Orkney  were  taken  over  by  His 
Majesty's  Coinniissionei's  of  Woods  and  Forests,  and  Avere  locally  managed  by  a  Crown 
Chamberlain. 

In  1836,  Mr  A.  S.  Graham  is  instructed  to  demand  an  annual  rent  of  one  shilling  *'as  an 
acknowledgement  of  the  Crown's  right  to  the  grounds."  At  that  date  the  Crown  i)urposed  to 
aell  Glaitness. 

In  1847,  the  Rev.  Mr  Spark,  in  name  of  his  Session,  applied  "  for  a  grant  of  a  small  piece 
of  land  off  the  farm  of  Glaitnes.s,  to  the  extent  of  fifty  yards  in  length  and  six  in  breadth,  for 
the  purpose  of  enlarging  the  present  school  premises."  Mr  Spence,  who  was  then  Crown 
Chamberlain,  was  **  directed  to  have  the  requisite  quantity  measured  off  at  siglit  of  Mr  Heddle,t 
and  put  in  possession  of  the  Kirk  Session  or  School  Managers."  This  Avas  considered  "a 
proper  occasion  for  vesting  both  the  present  site  and' that  now  agreed  to  be  granted  in  one 
gift  from  the  Crown,  subject  to  condition  of  the  grant  becoming  void  in  the  event  of  the 
appropriation  of  the  ground  to  any  other  purposes."  Referring  to  the  shilling  of  rent  imposed 
by  Mr  Graham,  the  late  Chamberlain,  Mr  Spence  is  thus  instructed  : — "  You  will  also  report 
whether  any  payments  have  been  made  on  account  or  in  full  of  the  annual  acknowledgement 
directed  to  be  put  in  charge  in  1836  for  the  occupation  of  this  ground." 

In  1872,  a  new  school  was  built,  when  the  management  was  assumed  by  the  Combined 
School  Board  of  Kirkwall  and  St  Ola. 

*  **  The  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge  in  the  Highlands  and  Islands  of  Scotland 
and  Foreign  Parts  of  the  World"  was  established  in  1708,  and  for  nearly  two  hundred  years  has  been 
doing  excellent  work. 

t  Mr  Magnus  Heddle,  who  also  had  a  feu  off  Glaitness,  was  the  first  to  start  a  public  conveyance 
for  passengers  between  Kirkwall  and  Stromness. 


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CHAPTER  XXL 

Junction  Road  and  Castle  Street. 

^HERE  must  already  have  been  a  feeling  that  Kirkwairs  traffic  was  too  great  for 
Kirkwall's  one  long,  narrow,  winding  street,  keeping  in  view  the  safety  and  comfort  of 
the  lieges,  when,  in  1818,  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  proposed  that  a  road  should  be 
made  from  the  pier  to  the  School  Wynd — Tankerness  Lane.  At  that  time  every  house 
bounded  by  the  Peerie  Sea  had  its  peats  boated  up  to  the  jetty  at  the  foot  of  its  own  garden  ; 
and  heavier  g(X)ds  than  peats  were  conveyed  by  water.  When,  in  1852,  the  late  Mr  Peace 
established  his  wood-yard  at  the  back  of  Mr  Tait's  premises  in  Albert  Street,  he  had  the  logs, 
discharged  at  the  pier  from  Norwegian  vessels,  floated  round  by  the  Oyce  mouth  and  dragged 
up  to  the  saw  pit.  But  Baikie's  proposal  was  not  carried  into  effect  till  1865,  when  Junction 
Road  was  made,  tapping  the  main  street  at  every  lane  from  the  harbour  to  the  head  of  the 
town.  At  the  same  time  a  wide  thoroughfare,  appropriately  named  Castle  Street,  was  formed, 
connecting  Broad  Street  with  the  new  road.  The  Harbour  Trustees,  at  whose  expense  these 
improvements  were  made,  at  first  hoped  to  save  a  portion  of  the  old  Castle  by  arching  a 
passage  through  the  ruin,  but  careful  surveying  showed  this  to  be  impossible.  Then  Lord 
Zetland,  on  condition  that  a  memorial  stone  were  erected,*  gave  permission  to  remove  the 
ruin,  and  the  last  remnant  of  Henry  St.  Clair's  stronghold  was  cleared  away. 

The  only  building  in  Castle  Street  demanding  notice  here  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  erected  on 
a  feu  acquired  from  the  late  Thomas  Peace,  P.M.,  by  Robert  Muir,  R,W.M.  The  plans  were 
furnished  by  Brother  T.  S.  Peace,  architect,  who  freely  bestowed  much  valuable  time  upon  the 
work. 

Concerning  Freemasonry,  it  is  not  surprising  that  much  misconception  should  exist.  One 
very  common  and  quite  erroneous  idea  is  that  a  lodge  of  Freemasons  is  a  benefit  society.  A 
benefit  society  is  an  association  which  members  join  for  the  purpose  of  securing  themselves 
from  pecuniary  loss,  through  sickness  or  some  unforeseen  calamity,  by  contributing  periodi* 
cally  to  a  common  fund.  Masonic  relief,  on  the  other  hand,  is  purely  voluntary  ;  it  depends 
on  the  merits  of  the  case  and  the  means  of  the  brethren  ;  it  is  silent  in  its  administration, 
and  is,  indeed,  the  charity  which  "  blesseth  him  who  gives  and  him  who  takes." 

The  history  of  Freemasonry  is  not  without  interest  even  to  the  uninitiated.  It  is 
impossible  to  lift  the  veil  of  obscurity  that  hides  its  remote  origin.  In  the  great  temple 
building  times,  Avhether  in  heathendom  or  in  Christendom,  Freemasonry  in  its  essence 
was  a  necessity.  **  Masons'  marks  are  traditional  and  go  back  to  the  remotest  antiquity, 
being  found  on  Phoenician  and  Greek  buildings,  and  in  still  larger  abundance  and  variety 
in  all  mediaeval  architecture." t  "Regular  Ma.sons'  marks  are  visible  upon  the  great 
hewn  stones  of  the  Buddhist  buildings  at  Sarnath,  which  are  known  to  have  been  erected 
before  the  sixth  century  ;  and  more  of  the  same  kind  are  found  on  the  ruined  buildings  of  the 

*  See  antty  p.  27.  t  "  The  Gnogtics  and  their  Remains,"  C.  W.  King. 


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JUNCTION   ROAD   AND  CASTLE  STREET. 


367 


same  religion,  still  to    be  tr«iced  incorporated    into  the  Brahminical  edifices  within  the 
neighbouring  Benares."  *    In  its  present  form  Freemasonry  comes  to  us  from  Germany. 

All  Christendom  had  taken  up  a  morbid  idea,  based  upon  an  interpretation  of  Revelation 
XX.  2,  that  in  the  year  1000  a.d.  should  come  the  end  of  the  world  and  the  day  of  judgment ;  and 
when  that  year  of  universal  depression  closed,  a  remarkable  reaction  followed.  A  wave  of 
religious  enthusiasm  overswept  Europe,  and  its  effects  were  lasting.  It  struck  individuals  and 
communities  differently.  The  heroic  spirits  of  all  the  nations  banded  themselves  together  for 
the  recovery  of  their  "holy  places  from  the  Mohammedan,  and  the  Crusades  stirred  up  a  new  life 
in  the  dormant  world.  Thousands  who  could  not  fight  would  follow,  and,  between  warriors 
and  pilgrims,  there  were  before  the  end  of  the  eleventh  century  several  millions  of  Christians 
on  the  move  towards  the  Holy  Land.  But  the  people  who  remained  at  home  were  not  idle. 
Those  who  could  not  work  could  contribute,  and  magnificent  temples,  dedicated  to  the 
worship  of  the  living  God,  were  reared  in  every  country  and  in  almost  every  city.     From  its 


■^ 

t 


-'  FPPi 


lei 


Ruins  of  Kirkwall  Castle,  removed  1865. , 

hature  this  development  of  religious  zeal  could  not  be  ephemeral,  for  the  love  of  art  grew 
with  the  practice  of  it.  The  first  architects  were  ecclesiastics  ;  but  by  and  by  intelligent  men, 
after  years  of  study  in  working  out  the  plans  of  bishop  or  abbot,  found  themselves  capable 
of  independent  action.  These  separated  themselves  from  the  other  workmen  and  devoted 
their  leisure  to  mathematical  and  artistic  studies.  In  keeping  with  the  spirit  of  the  age  their 
art  was  strongly  impregnated  with  sacred  symbolism.  It  soon  became  apparent  that  the 
teaching  of  apprentices  was  an  absolute  necessity,  and  a  training,  at  first  fixed  at  five  years 
and  afterwards  extended  to  seven,  was  insisted  on.  In  those  days  before  indentures  were 
thought  of,  his  apprenticeship  over,  the  youth  was  intrusted  with  a  secret  sign  and  password 
by  which  he  could  show  himself  to  have  been  duly  instructed,  but  which  he  might 
divulge  to  no  one  who  could  not  prove  himself  worthy  of  that  confidence  by  showing  himself 
possessed  of  the  same  secrets.     This  involved  initiatory  tests,  so  that  a  lad  might  not  be 

*  "  Sacred  City  of  the  Hindus,"  Sherring, 


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868  KIRKWALL  IN   THK  ORKNEYS. 

betrayed  into  giving  an  unworthy  person  the  means  of  passing  himself  off  as  a  properly 
trained  apprentice.  In  training  his  apprentice  the  pious  master  was  not  content  that  a  youth 
entrusted  to  his  care  should  become  merely  a  skilled  artisan.  In  his  moral  training  he 
applied  his  symbolism  to  the  working  tools— the  mallet,  the  chisel,  and  the  rule.  The 
laborious  mailet  taught  him  industry  ;  the  incessant  chipping  of  the  chisel,  working  by  little 
and  little  till  it  accomplished  great  ends,  was  an  admirable  emblem  of  perseverance  ;  and  the 
twenty-four-inch  rule  taught  the  young  man  to  apportion  the  twenty-four  hours  of  the  day 
to  the  duty  which  he  owed  to  his  God,  to  his  uiaster,  and  to  his  own  bodily  and  spiritual 
welfare.  The  "  Lodges,"  in  which  the  apprentices  got  their  password  and  sign,  were  the 
ordinary  sheds  in  which  the  craftsmen  did  their  hewing.  As  these  were  generally  open  in  the 
seams,  to  guard  the  giving  of  signs  and  words  from  prying  eyes  and  listening  ears,  an  outer 
guard  became  necessary. 

The  young  man,  now  to  some  extent  an  expert  workman,  and  furnished  with  an  inde- 
structible passi:K)rt,  was  sent  out  to  seek  work  in  some  other  city.  Here  the  Fellowcrafts— 
journeymen  who  had  passed  through  the  regular  training — put  him  to  the  test  ;  and  when  he 
had  given  word  and  sign  and  named  his  mother  Lodge,  they  took  him  to  their  own  Lodge,  ahd 
formally  passed  him  into  the  Order  of  Fellowcrafts.  No  longer  under  the  protection  of  a 
master,  he  wrought  on  a  level  with  the  others  ;  he  became  responsible  for  his  own  work,  and 
put  his  "  mark  "  upon  every  stone  he  hewed.  He  also  took  his  share  in  the  training  of  ap- 
prentices. Thus  Masonry  naturally  evolved  itself  into  three  degrees — Apprentice,  Fellowcraft, 
and  Master.  But  a  time  came  when  the  principles  of  Masonry,  and  its  lofty  aims  being 
highly  appreciated  so  far  as  known  to  the  outside  world,  non-operative  Masons  were 
"accepted"  by  the  brethren  and  admitted,  as  "free  and  accepted  Masons,"  to  all  the  privileges 
of  the  Lodge.    Such  is  the  Freemasonry  of  to-day. 

Its  introduction  into  Scotland  is  lost  in  the  obscurity  of  the  distant  past,  but  somewhere 
between  1430  and  1441,  William  St.  Clair,  Earl  of  Orkney,  was  apix)inted  Patron  of  the 
Masons  of  Scotland  ;  and  it  is  somewhat  striking  that  the  Kirkwall  Lodge  is  built  within  the 
precincts  of  the  Castle  of  William  St.  Clair,  practically  the  first  Scottish  Grand  Master.  The 
office  of  Patron  was  made  hereditary,  and  was  held  by  this  family  for  three  hundred  years, 
when  William  St.  Clair,  in  1736,  having  no  son,  placed  his  resignation  before  the  Scottish 
Lodges,  whereupon  he  was  at  once  chosen  Grand  Master,  an  office  which  since  then  has.  li«en 
elective.* 

Kirkwall  Freemasonry  dates  from  1st  October  1736,  when  James  Berriehill,  fniui  the 
ancient  Lodge  of  Stirling,  ^d  William  Meldrum,  from  the  Lodge  of  Dunfermline,  convened 
a  quorum  for  the  purpose  of  initiating  Berriehill's  son,  James,  into  the  mysteries  of  the  craft. 
At  this  meeting  the  names  of  three  of  the  townsmen  were  presented  as  candidates— James 
M*Kay,  watchdresser  and  wigmaker  ;  Alex.  Baikie,  dyer  ;  and  Robert  Sutherland,  merchant. 

In  February  1738,  the  "  Acts  stipulated  for  the  Regulation  of  the  Masters'  Court  of  the 
Honourable  Lodge  of  Kirkwall  Kilwinning "  were  adopted,  Alexander  Baikie  being  Master. 
After  this  the  membership  rapidly  increased.  The  meetings  were  held  quarterly,  and  on  the 
sederunt  of  March  1739  are  the  names  of  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness  ;  John  Baikie,  his 
brother  ;  Donald  Groat,  Bailie  ;  John  Riddoch,  Stewart  Clerk  of  Orkney  ;  Andrew  Young 
of  Castleyards  ;  Patrick  Traill,  <kc.,  ifec. 

It  is  not  shown  where  the  Masons  assembled,  but  it  would  almost  seem  that  their  Lodge 
was  constituted  in  the  private  houses  of  the  brethren,  i)erhaps  in  rr>tation.  "The 
said  dayt  it's  agreed  that  Mr  Sutherland  shall  make  ane  haiisome  dinner  for  the  members 

*  For  a*pbpu]ar  iind 'exceediiiffly  interesting  history  of  Freemasonry,  see  article  iu  MacmxUmCs 
Matjazine,  June  1878,  by  Edward  r\  Willoughby.  f  22nd  December  1740. 


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JUNCTION   ROAD   AND   CASTLE   STREET.  S69 

of  the  Lodge,  who  are  ordered  to  meet  at  the  Lodge  in  his  house  on  St.  John's  day  ;  and 
likewayes  it's  agreed  that  a  Steward  shall  be  appointed  for  the  insuing  year,  who  shall 
collect  one  shilling  stg.  from  each  member  for  their  entertainment  on  said  day,  which  is  to 
satisfy  Mr  Sutherland  for  the  same  and  his  house  trouble  on  that  occasion  ;  and  it's  further 
aggreed  upon  That  each  member  calling  for  whatever  liquhor  he  may  incline,  shall  pay  in  the 
value  of  the  same,  and  that  this  regulation  shall  be  observed  as  a  standing  rule  to  the  foresaid 
effect  in  all  time  hereafter.    Signed,  in  name  of  the  brethren  present,  by  Ja.  Baikie." 

It  is  to  the  good  taste  of  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  Master  of  the  Lodge,  supported  by 
his  Masonic  brethren,  that  Kirkwall  owes  the  introduction  of  music  available  for  public 
functions. 

Copy  Letter  to  Mr  Andrew  Munro,  Merchant,  Inverness. 

**  29th  April  1741. 

"  Sir, — At  the  desire  of  the  Right  Worshipful  James  Bciikie  of  Tankeruess,  Esq.,  Master,  and  the 

Remanent  members  of  our  Society,  I  desire  the  favour  of  you  to  asree  at  an  as  easie  rate  as  possibly 

you  can  with  a  man  skiled  in  musick  you  will  approve  of,  that  will  serve  our  Lodge  with  a  Bass  and 

treble  violins,  for  which  I  desire  you  may  assure  him  of  seven  pound  ten  sh.  p.  aimum  certain,  besidea 

esrquisites  and  considerable  other  encouragements  I'm  almost  certain  he'l  meet  with  in  this  place, 
ut  before  one  be  wanted,  may  goe  the  length  of  Ten  pounds  stg.,  and  if  he  condescends  thereto^ 
be  pleased  to  carrie  him  with  you  in  your  return  to  this  countrie.  Your  complyance  herewith  will 
exceedingly  oblige  all  our  Society,  as  it  will  him  who  is,  etc.,       (Sigd.)     Robert  Sutherland." 

In  December  1741,  Mungo  Grajme  of  Grsemeshall  was  elected  Master,  and  in  June  of  the 
following  year.  Brothers  Andrew  Ross,  Chamberlain  of  Orkney,  and  Andrew  Young  of 
Castleyards,  presented  to  the  R.W.M.  "  ane  Charter  of  Constitution  and  Erection  from  the 
Grand  Lodge,  of  date  the  First  day  of  December  1740  years."  The  petition  for  the  Charter 
had  been  sent  to  the  Grand  Lodge,  September  1740,  and  from  the  above  it  would  appear  that 
Brothers  Ross  and  Y'^oung  had  been  in  Edinburgh,  and  having  paid  the  expenses,  had  secured 
the  "  Patent "  and  brought  it  home  with  them,  the  erection  of  Kirkwall  Kilwinning  Lodge 
dating  from  the  year  of  application. 

In  1742,  Mungo  Graeme  of  Grsemeshall  was  re-appointed  R.W.M.  In  January  1743,  a  set 
of  jewels  arrived  from  Edinburgh,  "  furnished  in  the  best  manner,"  and  Brother  Richard 
Cooper,  the  engraver  with  whom  Sir  Robert  Strange  served  his  apprenticeship,  then  evidently 
Grand  Jeweller,  wished  "all  success  and  harmony  to  your  Lodge."  In  June  1743,  Grajme 
presented  the  Lodge  with  a  "medall  upon  Masonry  struck  in  Hamburgh." 

On  24th  March  1750,  "  Harry  Liddell,  Esq.,  R.W.M.,  in  the  chair,  it  was  moved  from  the 
chair  that,  in  consequence  of  a  general  concert  and  agreement  of  the  Brethren,  the  upper  room 
of  the  Town  House  of  this  Burgh,  which  the  Brethren  had  unanimously  resolved  should  be 
taken  in  Tack  for  a  certain  number  of  years  from  the  Magistrates  and  Council  of  said  Burgh, 
should  be  lined  and  repaired,  and  that  thereafter  it  should  be  painted  at  the  sight  of  a  Com- 
mittee of  the  Brethren,  and  that  now  the  said  room  was  not  only  finished  with  wo<xi,  but 
also  painted,"  and  this  was  at  once  occupied  as  the  Kirkwall  Kilwinning  Lodge  room. 

The  brethren  were  liberal  in  their  charities,  and  from  the  inauguration  of  the  Lodge 
there  were  constant  claims  upon  their  funds.  Collin  M*Allister,  a  wigmaker,  died  in  poverty, 
and  the  Masons  buried  him,  giving  his  friends  wherewithal  to  wake  him  handsomely.  The 
costs  amounted  to  £42  19s  4d  Scots.  In  March  1747,  Dr  Hugh  Sutherland,  Treasurer,  is 
instructed  to  give  five  guineas  towards  "  building  and  furnishing  the  Workhouse  in  Kirkwall 
for  the  benefite  of  the  poor."    "  April  1756,  paid  Bailie  Wm.  Groat  for  cloath  to  poor  Brother 

,  and  his  account  discharged,  £3  3s  Id."    "  27th  Dec.  1763,  Given  the  Kirk  Treasurer, 

to  be  applied  towards  the  support  of  the  poor  and  sick  in  town,  £3  33."  In  an  official  letter, 
the  following  statement  appears  : — "Kirkl.,  10th  Nov.  1770.   .   .   .   Our  ffinances  are  extremely 

3b 


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370  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNKYS. 

low,  occasioned  by  the  many  drains  to  our  poor  Brethren  and  other  objects  of  charity,  and 
in  particular,  in  the  year  1765,  the  last  year  of  great  famine  in  this  Country,  we  contributed 
a  pretty  large  sum  for  buying  meall  for  the  poor."    And  this  letter  enclosed  two  guineas. 

These  disbursements  drew  upon  all  the  Lodge's  sources  of  income — entrance  fees,  fines, 
and  voluntary  contributions.  The  first  of  these  formed  the  working  capital  of  the  Lodge  ; 
the  fines  yielded  such  small  return  as  to  be  almost  inappreciable,  but  the  charitable  sub- 
scriptions of  the  members  were  considerable.  In  December  1751,  Malcolm  Groat  and  Thomas 
Lindsay  were  each  fined  half-a -guinea  for  absence.  In  1755,  quarterly  collections  for  charitable 
purposes  show  that  one  brother  on  each  occasion  gave  a  guinea  ;  one  gave  15s  ;  six  gave  each 
12s  ;  eleven  others  gave  6s  at  each  collection  ;  and  six  gave  3s,  to  be  devoted  to  pious  uses. 

But  if  they  could  condole  with  those  who  mourned,  the  brethren  could  also  rejoice  on 
suitable  occasions.  On  St.  John's  Day  the  brethren  went  in  procession  from  the  Town  Hall 
to  the  Cross,  and  there  loyally,  and  of  course  publicly,  drank  the  health  of  the  reigning 
sovereign,  and  that  the  glass  from  which  this  pledge  was  drunk  might  never  be  degraded  by 
meaner  toasts,  it  was  immediately  dashed  to  the  ground.  In  some  years  the  day's  proceedings 
wound  up  with  a  ball,  doubtless  very  pleasant,  and  in  most  cases  remarkably  inexpensive. 

As  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  through  the  medium  of  the  Lodge,  had  introduced  a  stringed 
band  into  Kirkwall,*  another  Brother  did  what  he  could  to  popularise  science  in  the  town. 
*' Kirkwall,  9th  January  1804. — On  the  motion  being  made  from  the  Chair,  the  brethren 
unanimously  voted  their  host  thanks  to  Brother  Traill  for  the  honourable  and  liberal  manner 
he  disposed  of  the  funds  arising  from  his  course  of  lectures  given  on  Chemistry  in  this  Lodge 
during  last  winter,  namely,  by  applying  it  towards  the  relief  of  the  poor  and  needy,  and  they 
further  voted  him  the  use  of  the  Lodge  for  the  present  season  for  the  same  purpose." 

Occasionally  an  item  of  historic  interest  long  forgotten  crops  up  in  the  minutes  of  the 
Lodge  :— **  Kirkwall,  17th  Feb.  1809.— The  Master,  Andrew  Monro,  stated  to  the  Lodge  that 
on  an  application  to  Provost  Traillt  for  having  the  Lodge  put  into  proper  repair,  which  had 
suffered  by  the  Dutch  prisoners  sometime  ago  there  confined,  he  had  handsomely  come  forward 
and  offered  to  bestow  such  repair,  and  in  all  respects  to  make  it  comfortable  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  brethren." 

In  1750,  a  number  of  the  brethren  of  Kirkwall  Kilwinning  hived  off  from  the  parent  Lodge 
and  formed  Lodge  St.  Paul's.  No  jealousy  was  felt  by  the  older  Lodge.  On  the  2nd  Dec. 
1750,  Kirkwall  Kilwinning  assisted  in  the  inauguration  of  St.  Paul's,  and  at  the  installation  of 
office-bearers— William  Graham,  R.W.M.  ;  William  Bremner,  S.W. ;  Patrick  Laughton,  J.W. 
The  Lodges  occasionally  met  on  public  occasions,  such  as  joining  in  procession  on  St.  John's 
Day.  When  the  Town  Council  sent  an  invitation  to  Kirkwall  Kilwinning,  as  the  senior,  to 
take  part  in  the  ceremonial  of  laying  the  foundation  of  the  pier,  1809,  that  Lodge  immediately 
extended  the  invitation  to  St.  Paul's,  by  whom  it  was  cordially  accepted. 

On  the  6th  April  1809,  a  communication  was  made  to  the  Lodge  from  the  Provost, 
Magistmtea,  and  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall  requesting  the  favour  of  the  Lodge  to  attend 
and  assist  iis  Masons  in  laying  the  foundation  stone  of  the  pier,  on  Tuesday,  llth  inst.,  and 
thereafter  to  dine  with  the  Provost,  Magistrates,  and  Council.  The  brethren  received  this 
communicati(m  with  pleasure,  and  unanimously  agreed  to  the  proposal.     Robert  Baikie  of 

*  It  is  noteworthy  that  recently  for  some  years  the  best  orchestral  music  that  has  ever  been 
produced  in  Kirkwall  has  been  the  result  of  the  efforts  of  the  late  W.  D.  Baikie,  Esq.  of  Tankerness, 
who,  under  great  difficulties  and  much  discouragement,  trained  an  orchestra,  or  rather  a  series  of 
orchestral  bands.  The  difficulties  and  discouragement  lay  in  the  necessity  of  Kirkwall  young  men 
leaving  home  to  push  their  way  in  the  world.  Thus,  when  the  conductor  had  got  a  company  nearly 
up  to  his  wish,  his  best  instruments  departed,  leaving  him  to  begin  the  training  of  fresh  recraits. 

t  Thos.  Traill,  Esq.  of  Frotoft. 


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JUNCTION  ROAD  AND  CASTLE  STREET.  371 

Tankerness  and  Robert  Nicolson  were  appointed  to  make  the  necessary  arrangements. 
**llth  April  1809. — Present,  the  Master  Wardens  and  a  full  meeting  of  Brethren,  the  Lodge 
being  duly  constituted  the  Brethren  adjourned  to  the  Aisle  of  St  Magnus,  whence  they  pro- 
ceeded, attended  by  the  Provost  and  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  and  many  other  respectable 
gentlemen,  in  Grand  Procession  to  the  sliore  of  Kirkwall,  where  the  Foundation  Stone  of 
KirkwalL  pier  was  laid  in  Masonic  Style  and  with  all  the  accustomed  ceremonies.  The 
Brethren  attended  a»  above  returned  to  the  Lr>dge,  and  in  the  evening  they  gave  a  Ball  and 
Supper  to  the  Ladies,  as  formerly  agreed  upon."  Brothers  Fotheringhain,  PoUexfen,  Rob. 
Traill,  and  William  Traill  were  the  Hall  Committee.  Mr  Shearer,  who  provided  the  supper^ 
sent  in  a  bill  for  £63  2s  stg.,  which  the  brethren  thought  extravagantly  high.  The  bill  was 
paid  in  full  with  an  intimation  that  Mr  Shearer  neither  deserved  nor  need  expect  any  further 
support  from  the  Lodge.  Brother  Nicolson  receives  the  thanks  of  the  Lodge  *'  for  the  hand- 
some  manner  he  came  forward  and  assisted  with  his  harmcmious  music  at  the  late  Procession 
and  Ball  given  by  the  Masons  without  any  charge  therefore." 

Dr  Barry,  minister  of  the  Second  Charge  in  the  Cathedral,  was  Chaplain  of  the  Lodge 
when  he  was  translated  to  Shapinsay,  1793 ;  and  Rev.  Robert  Yule,  incumbent  in  the  First 
Charge,  became  a  member  of  the  Lodge,  181L 

About  the  middle  of  the  present  century  Freemasonry  in  Kirkwall  was  at  a  low  ebb  ; 
but  in  1855,  Dr  William  Baikie,  an  enthusiastic  mason,  home  on  furlough  from  his  African 
exploration,  infused  new  life  into  the  Lodge,  and  he  found  able  and  willing  helpers  in  SheriflT 
Robertson,  Dr  Logic,  Messrs  David  Balfour,  Robert  Scarth,  John  Cursiter,  Andrew  Gold,  and 
Samuel  Baikie.  Since  then  the  Masters  have  been  David  Balfour,  f^q.  of  Balfour  and 
Trenaby,  Robert  Scarth,  Esq.  of  Binscarth,  Messrs  Thomas  Peace,  Robert  Muir,  Rev.  J.  B» 
Craven,  B.  H.  Hossack,  Duncan  J.  Robertson,  Samuel  Baikie,  and  James  Slater. 


APPENDIX  TO  CHAPTER  XXL 

List  of  Master  Masons,  Lodge  Kjbkwall  Kilwinning,  1737  to  1860. 

Alex.  Baikie,  dyer,  1737  James  Traill,  1766  Alexander  Eraser,  17M 

James  Baikie,  Tankerness,  1740    Dr  Robert  Groat,  1767  Robert  Baikie,  1799 

Mungo  Grseme,  Grsemeshall,  1741  James  Fea  of  Clestrain,  1768  Andrew  Baikie,  1800 

James  Baikie,  1743  Henry  Pollexfen,  1769  Robert  Groat,  1801 

Donald  Groat,  1744  Dr  Robert  Groat,  1770  George  Omond,  1802 

Andrew  Rosa,  1746  Henry  Pollexfen,  1771  Robert  Nicolson,  1803 

James  Baikie,  1746  Dr  Robert  Groat,  1772  James  Smith,  1804 

And.  Younff,  Castleyards,  1747     James  Riddoch,  1773  Andrew  Munro,  1805 

Sir  Andrew  Mitchell  of  Westshore,  Walter  Stewart,  1774  James  Smith,  1806 

Bart.,  1748  Patrick  Grieme,  1775  Robert  Baikie,  Tankerness,  1807 

Harry  Liddell,  1749  Robert  Baikie,  Tankerness,  1776  Andrew  Munro,  1808 

Mungo  Graeme,  1750  Alexander  Eraser,  1777  James  Smith,  1809 

John  Riddoch,  1761  James  Traill,  1778  Robert  Nicolson,  1810 

Capt.  Benjamin  Moodie,  1762        Robert  Baikie,  1779  John  Mitchell,  1811 

John  Baikie,  1753  William  Groat,  1780  George  Omond,  1812 

Wm.  Groat,  1754  Andrew  Baikie,  1781  Robert  Smith,  1813 

Patrick  Honyman,  yr.  of  Grsem-  Robert  Baikie,  1782  William  Louttit,  1814 

say,  1755  James  Riddoch,  1783  Patrick  Fotheringham,  1815 

James  Baikie,  1756  James  Traill,  1784  William  Louttit,  1816 

Mungo  Gneme,  1757  Robert  Baikie,  1785  John  Baikie,  1817 

Andrew  Boss,  1758  Dr  Robert  Groat,  1786,  1787  Thomas  Sands,  1818 

Andrew  Young,  1759  James  Baikie,  Tankerness,  1788,  John  Baikie,  1819 

John  Riddoch,  1760  1789  David  Balfour,  1846 

John  Baikie,  1761  Andrew  Baikie,  1790  John  Baikie,  1846 

Wm.  Groat,  1762  William  Manson,  1791  James  Robertson,  1860 

Pat.  Honyman  of  Gnemsay,  1763  James  Riddoch,  1792  John  George  Heddle,  1861 

Dr  Robert  Groat,  1764,  1766         Robert  Baikie,  1793  Thomas  TraiU,  1860 


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CHAPTER  XXIL 

The  Aire  and  Peerie  Sea. 

I^HE  Aire  —a  long  gravelly  spit  extending  westward  from  the  Harbour,  and  having  a 
^-    sloi)e  to  the  "  salt  sea  or  Road  of  Kirkwall "  on  the  north  and  to  the  "  Oyee  "  on  the 
south— has  a  little  history  of  its  own.    The  name  is  a  form  of  the  Norse  Eytr^  a  sea- 
beach,  and  is  locally  applied  to  such  beaches  as  have  water  on  both  sides. 

In  former  days  the  Aire  extended  eastward  as  far  as  what  is  now  the  foot  of  Bridge  Street, 
but  as  far  back  at  least  as  the  year  1683  it  has  been  taken  as  extending  westward  from  the 
Girnell  House.  In  that  year  the  Magistrates  granted  John  Traill  of  Elsness  "  All  and  Haill 
the  piece  of  waste  ground  underwrn.,  to  witt,  the  number  and  quantitie  of  ane  hundreth  and 
ffyiftie  foots  of  rule  in  breidth,  and  in  length  to  the  sands  within  the  oyce  of  the  said  brugh, 
sua  far  as  he  or  his  foresaids  can  convenientlie  make  use  of,  lyand  at  the  west  end  of  the  shoir 
of  the  said  brugh,  having  the  girnal  house  and  yaird  thereof  on  the  east,  to  be  ane  yaird  either 
for  peats  or  kail,  or  to  build  house  or  houssis  yruiK)n,  either  for  dwell ing-houssis  or  oflSce 
houssis."  Possibly  John  Traill  enclosed  the  space  at  once  ;  if  not,  the  measurements  were 
43ufficiently  definite  to  secure  the  pro|>erty.  The  grant  was  confirmed  to  Traill's  grandson, 
1737  ;  to  his  great-granddaughters,  Elizabeth,  Isabella,  and  Margaret,  1787  ;  and  to  John 
Traill  Urquhart  of  Elsness,  1818,  who  the  same  year  sold  it  to  James  Spence,  merchant  and 
banker,  to  whose  heirs  it  still  belongs. 

In  1791,  James  Erskine,  merchant,  acquired  from  the  Town  Council  a  space  having 
"**  fifteen  fathoms  of  Front  along  the  south  side  of  the  Aire  or  Beach  of  Kirkwall."  On  this 
site  he  built  two  houses,  the  eastmost  of  which  he  occupied  himself,  while  the  other  was 
bought  by  Mrs  Stewart  of  Burness. 

Mrs  Stewart,  widow  of  James  Stewart  of  Brugh,  was  one  of  the  last  of  the  old  type  of 
Orcadian  dames  whose  genial  hospitality  remains  a  bright  tradition  in  Kirkwall.  Her  whist 
parties  alternated  week  about  with  those  of  her  sister,  Miss  Pollexfen,  in  Broad  Street.  In 
the  house  on  the  Aire  the  gentlemen  drank  old  port  from  rummers,  while  up  town  they  had 
ale,  of  a  potency  not  brewed  in  these  days,  served  in  tall,  narrow  glasses.  This  was  merely 
to  support  them  during  their  laborious  rubbers  of  ten-trick  games,  after  which  came  supper. 
Mrs  Stewart  lived  to  a  ripe  age,  and  at  one  of  the  last  of  the  Assemblies  in  the  old  Town 
Hall,  when  in  her  eighty-sixth  year,  she  danced  a  reel  with  her  nephew,  Mr  Ranken,  Procu- 
rator-Fiscal.    She  had  no  family,  and  the  Burgh  property  went  to  a  nephew  of  her  husband. 

The  first  Stewart  of  Brugh  was  Edward,  natural  son  of  Robert,  Earl  of  Orkney,  and 
Marjorie  Sandilands,  in  Wick.  In  1628,  "Edward  Stewart  of  Brugh,  with  the  consent  of 
Jean  Douglas,  my  sjiouse,  for  the  special  love  and  filial  affection  I  bear  to  Marjorie  Sandilands 
in  Wick,  in  Caithness,  my  Mother,  bind  and  oblige  myself  to  infeft  her  in  lyferent  of  an 
annuity  of  100  merks  furth  of  lands  pertaining  to  me."  But  the  Earl  himself  made  provision 
for  the  mother  of  his  sons,  Edward  and  David.     In  1589,  "  William  Gordon,  Captaine  of  the 


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THE   AIRE   AND   PEERIE  SEA.  373 

Castell  of  Kirkwall,'*  witnesses  Marjorie  Sandilands'  **  Discharge  to  William  Irvyng  of  the 
@  rent  of  300  merks  payable  by  him."  *  This  was  probably  before  her  marriage.  In  1617, 
"  Marjorie  Sandilands,  spous  to  Adam  Gordon,  son  of  John  Gordon  of  Albanchy,"  t  borrows 
from  Margaret  Bonar  and  Thomas  Ballenden,  "  air  of  Stanehous,"  400  merks.  Holland,  in 
Stronsay,  is  the  security.  J 

The  last  of  these  transactions  was  at  least  ten  years  previous  to  her  son's  settlement. 
Edward  Stewart  gave  the  reversion  of  his  mother's  income  derived  from  him  to  his  brother  : 
— "And  for  the  love  I  bear  to  David  Stewart,  my  brother,  sone  to  the  said  Marjorie,  in  case 
he  shall  survive  her,  the  sum  of  1000  merks  at  Whitsunday  after  the  decease  of  said  Marjorie." 

Edward's  son,  Robert,  got  with  his  first  wife,  Barbara  Halcro,  Cleat  and  other  lands  in 
Westray.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  John.  "Thursday,  John  Stewart  of  Brough  was 
married  to  Margaret  Ballenden,  eldest  daughter  to  William  of  Stennis,  in  the  kirk  of  Evie  ; 
yr.  brydal  kept  at  Aikerness  yr."  § 

Their  son,  Archibald,  married  Isobel,  only  child  and  heiress  of  William  Balfour  of  Pharay, 
and  this  marriage  annexed  the  Pharay  property  to  Brugh.  In  his  will,  dated  1755,  his  wife 
also  living,  Archibald  Stewart  leaves  the  property  to  their  eldest  son,  James,  whom  failing,  to 
Archibald,  whom  failing,  to  Thomas,  yet  it  was  their  fourth  son,  Balfour,  who  succeeded.  He 
was  followed  by  James,  whose  widow  occupied  the  house  on  the  Aire.  ||  The  next  James  died 
unmarried,  and  the  line  became  extinct  with  the  death  of  Bruce  Stewart,  of  American  birth, 
the  bulk  of  the  property  going  to  the  North  Isles  Presbytery. 

As  this  was  the  last  town-house  of  the  Stewarts  of  Brugh,  so  was  it  the  last  residence  in 
Kirkwall  of  the  Traills  of  Holland.  This  property  had  been  purchased  from  Mrs  Stewart's 
heir,  the  Rev.  John  H.  Pollexfen,  by  Mr  James  Walls,  merchant.  Walls  sold  Mrs  Stewart's 
house  and  other  property  in  Kirkwall  to  Thomas  Traill,  the  bargain  being  that  the  purchaser, 
instead  of  paying  a  slump  sum,  should  pay  an  annuity  of  £140  during  the  lives  of  the  seller 
and  his  wife.  It  was  the  old  story  over  again,  and  a  good  bargain  for  the  annuitant.  Mr 
Traill  might  have  complained  with  Outram  : — 

**  I  read  the  tables  drawn  wi'  care 

For  an  Insurance  Compeuiy, 
His  chance  o'  life  was  stated  there 

Wi'  perfect  perspicuity. 
But  tables  here  or  tables  there, 
He's  lived  ten  years  beyond  his  share, 
An's  like  to  live  a  dozen  uiair 

To  ca'  for  his  annuity." 

Beyond  Mrs  Stewart's  was  built  a  row  of  houses  stretching  from  the  Aire  back  into  the 
Peerie  Sea.  After  the  Disruption,  Mr  Walls  bought  the  East  Church,  and  using  the  materials, 
added  those  houses  to  his  property  on  the  Aire.  They  were  bought  from  Mr  Walls  by 
Mr  Mail,  fish  merchant.  The  principal  doorway  of  the  East  Church  is  still  to  be  seen  where 
Mr  Walls  rebuilt  it,  at  the  west  end  of  his  house.  The  Traill  property  now  belongs  to  Mr 
George  Black,  and  is  used  by  him  as  a  temperance  hotel. 

In  1822,  Mr  Spence  bought  the  space  between  Mr  Erskine's  houses  and  his  own  yard,  the 
south  boundary  being  in  line  with  the  garden  wall  of  Mrs  Stewart  of  Burness.  He  filled  in 
and  bought  up  the  whole  area  to  the  level  of  his  other  yards.  But  Mr  Drever,  merchant,  put 
in  an  offer  for  one  of  them,  and  the  price  being  agreed  upon,  they  "  cast  lots  "  for  east  yard  or 
west,  when  the  latter  fell  to  Drever.  This  space  is  now  roofed  over,  and  is  used  as  a  fishcuring 
and  liver-boiling  establishment  by  Mr  Chalmers,  fish  merchant. 

•  H.  L.        t  Spelling  doubtful.        t  Sheriff  Court  books.  §  T.  B.,  23rd  Dec.  1686. 

II  For  titles  favoured  by  Mr  T.  H.  Liddie,  solicitor. 


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374  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Seeing  that  the  Town  Council  was  granting  feus  on  the  Aire,  Malcolm  Laing  of  Pabdale 
applied  for  a  site  on  which  to  erect  a  wind-mill.  But  here  the  town's  folk  raised  an  indignant 
protest  :— 

"  Unto  The  Honble.  The  Magietrutea  and  Councill  of  Kirkwall, — The  Petition  of  the  under- 
scribers  and  those  who  choise  to  join  with  them, 

"  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  your  Petitioners  have  lately  seen  with  surprise  as  well  as  regret  a 
House  built  on  the  Ayre  or  Beach  of  this  Burgh,  in  consequence  of  a  part  thereof  having  been  feued 
by  your  Honours  to  Mr  James  Erskine,  Mercht.  here. 

*'  The  Petitioners  do  not  mean  to  enter  into  the  propriety  or  impropriety  of  feuing  other  parts  of 
the  Burgh,  But  they  hope  to  be  forgiven  for  saying  Ijiat  they  apprehend  the  Magistrates  and  Council 
have  gone  beyond  their  power  when  they  granted  this  feu  to  Mr  Krskine,  the  Ayr  being  a  public  and 
the  only  Walk  for  the  Inhabitants  durine  the  Winter  months.  And  if  they  are  right  informed,  the 
Magistrates  and  Council  were  deceived  by  the  application  from  Mr  Erskine,  which  mentioned  that 
he  wanted  part  of  the  Ayre  for  a  garden  only,  and  not  a  word  of  building  a  house,  otherwise  the  feu 
would  have  been  opposed  by  many  who  agreed  to  the  granting  of  it. 

*  *  Your  Honours  very  well  know  That  whei-e  there  are  houses  inhabited  there  will  be  filth  and 
nastiness  thrown  out,  which  on  a  public  walk  must  be  disasreeable  and  improper,  and  what  ought  not 
to  be  suffered  by  the  public  of  any  well-regulated  Burgh  ;  oesides.  It  is  well  known  to  every  one  of 
your  Honours  That  the  Inhabitants  have  no  other  place  than  this  Beach  to  dry  their  Cloths  on  when 
washed,  and  this  they  have  been  in  the  piactice  of  doing  past  memory. 

*'  After  granting  one  feu,  it  has  naturally  occurred  to  many  That  similar  ones  might  be  obtained, 
for  which  purpose  several  applications  are  made  to  your  Honours,  and  particularly  one  by  Mr  M. 
Laing,  for  the  purpose  of  building  a  Wind  Mill  on  the  Ayre.  Your  Petitioners  entertain  the  greatest 
regard  for  Mr  Laing,  And  are  sorry  That  they  should  be  under  the  necessity  of  thus  endeavouring  to 
oppose  the  measure.  But  a  regard  for  their  own  welfare,  and  more  particularly  the  safety  of  the 
children  of  many  of  them,  who  go  every  fair  day  in  Winter  to  the  Ayre,  their  only  place  of  recreation, 
compels  them  to  it. 

"  The  Petitioners  are  perfectly  sensible  that  a  Wind  MiU  is  much  wanted,  and  would  be  of  great 
service  to  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Burgh  and  the  parish,  but  they  flatter  themselves  they  need  not  use 
ar^ment  to  satisfy  your  honours  That  a  Wind  Mill  there  would  be  attended  with  danger  to  the 
Children,  as  the  novelty  of  the  thing  would  naturally  lead  them  to  it,  and  the  propensity  of  Boys  to 
climb  and  play  tricks  aoout  such  a  jmice  could  not,  they  apprehend,  be  prevented  ;  besides,  a  number 
of  horses  must  be  very  frequently  passing  to  and  from  a  Mill,  which  would  not  only  be  an  additional 
danger,  But  they  would  break  the  Walk  so  much  as  to  render  it  useless  for  the  present  salutary 
purpose  of  Walking  on  ;  and  Mr  Laing,  in  their  humble  apprehension,  has  a  property  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Town  where  it  may  be  erected  with  equal  aavautaffes. 

**  Under  these  circumstances,  The  Petitioners  hope  That  your  Honours  will  listen  to  their  appli- 
cation, and  altho'  a  wrons,  in  their  humble  opinion,  has  been  already  done,  that  you  will  not  persist 
in  granting  any  further  ^us  on  this  public  Walk,  whereby  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Burgh  may  be  de- 
prived of  their  only  Walk  in  the  Winter  season— a  thing  so  very  conducive  and  necessary  towards 
their  health  that  it  is  generally  called  their  doctor. 

"And  your  Petitioners,"  &c. 

Mr  Laing  did  not  get  leave  to  erect  this  wind-mill,  but  years  afterwards,  by  way  of 
utilising  the-  rush  of  tide  at  the  Oyce  mouth,  a  water-mill  was  put  up  at  the  point  of  the  Aire. 

On  the  19th  of  October  1839,  Mr  Thomas  Flett  applied  for  permission  to  erect  a  saw-mill 
at  the  Oyce  mouth,  and  kid  plans  before  the  Ck)uncil.  With  the  sanction  of  the  authorities, 
Mr  Flett  set  to  work.  The  machinery  was  so  adjusted  that  the  wheel— a  very  broad  one- 
should  rise  and  fall,  and  reverse  with  the  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tide.  After  a  time  the  place 
was  fitted  as  a  meal-mill,  and  was  purchased  by  Mr  Williamson.  Though  the  water-wheel 
still  remains,  its  work  has  long  been  superseded  by  steam. 

In  1829,  the  house  of  Grainbank  was  built,  and  Mr  Thomas  Hutton,  the  Earl  of  Zetland's 
Chamberlain,  feeling  the  inconvenience  of  having  to  go  round  the  Peerie  Sea  to  get  to  town, 
threw  a  light  wooden  bridge  across  the  mouth  of  the  Oyce.  At  that  time  boats  were  still  in 
use  to  carry  peats  to  the  backyards  of  the  Broad  Street  houses.  Accordingly,  Mr  Button's 
bridge  was  constructed  to  lift  so  as  to  allow  masts  to  pass  through.  But  already  carts  were 
supplanting  boats  in  supplying  the  town  with  fuel.  Going  to  the  hill  at  the  time  most 
suitable  for  tide,  a  string  of  them  could  be  seen  daily  taking  the  ford  from  Grainshore  to  the 


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THE  AIRE  AND  PEERIE  SEA.  375 

Aire.  Keeping  well  below  or  above  the  line  of  the  preseut  bridges,  they  found  shallow  water 
and  a  fairly  smooth  bottom,  and  gradually  the  carters  cut  the  boatmen  clean  out  of  the  peat 
carriage.  Then  a  strong  wooden  bridge  took  the  place  of  Mr  Button's  light  draw-bridge,  and 
vehicular  traffic  across  the  Oyce  mouth  was  established. 

Under  the  Orkney  Road  Act,  the  old  way  over  the  hills  to  Stromness  was  abandoned  ;  a 
road  was  made  by  the  Aire,  and  a  stone  bridge  thrown  across  the  Oyce  mouth,  1858.* 

But  long  before  encroachments  were  made  by  yards  and  buildings,  the  Aire  was  turned  to 
practical  use.  It  was  a  very  convenient  beach  on  which  to  draw  up  boats.  Some  persons  even 
went  so  far  as  to  dig  out  nousts  in  it,  and  some  were  reckless  enough  to  cast  their  ballast  after 
coming  to  the  beach.  That  observant  magistrate,  Arthur  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  enjoying  his 
"  doctor  "  one  day  in  June,  1 676,  noticed  several  such  acts  of  carelessness  and  aggression.  As 
his  habit  was,  when  he  saw  matter  to  bring  before  the  Council,  he  at  once  made  a  note  of  it, 
this  time  on  the  back  of  a  letter :  —Item.—"  Yt  an  ack  be  mead  y t  no  vessal  or  boat  cast  out 
yr  balise,  ayr  (either)  graval  or  sand,  wtin.  ye  floodmrk  ayr  wtout.  or  wtin.  ye  aer."  "  Also  yt 
non  brak  yro  ti>  mak  docks  wtin.  or  wtout.  ye  ar  wtout.  libertie  fra  ye  magistrats,  and  yt 
they  be  obledged  to  even  and  smooth  ye  sd.  grund  so  brak  be  yt  vessal  or  boat."  When  Mr 
Baikie  reached  the  west  end  of  the  Aire  he  found  that  things  were  not  at  all  to  bis  mind,  so  he 
notes  : — "  It.,  yt  da.  moncrieff,  bailie,  be  inquyre  anent  ye  clearing,  redding,  and  making  clean 
ye  sea  passage  and  oyse  at  ye  schor  qr  vessals,  &c.,  maye  enter  and  lye  more  secuer  ffra 
danger."  This  passage  required  frequent  attention.  "The  Magistrates  and  Counsell  con- 
sidering that  the  passage  to  the  Ships  Docks  commonly  called  the  Oyce  mouth,  is  filled  up 
with  Gravel,  Sand,  and  Stones  to  that  degree  that  not  only  Ships  but  even  great  boats  can 
scarce  get  out  or  in  at  a  full  sea.  Therefore  appoints  the  Proclamation  to  advei-tise  the  haill 
Inhabitants  to  be  ready  with  Speads,  Shovells,  and  other  Instruments  when  called  for  by  any 
of  the  Magistrats  or  Counsell,  twenty  or  thereby  by  turns,  in  order  to  redd  and  clean  the  said 
Oyce  mouth,  and  recommends  to  all,  both  Magistrats  and  Counsellors  and  Burgars,  to  inspect 
and  oversee  the  pertiteing  of  that  work,  beginning  on  Monday  next  at  William  Traill,t  brother 
to  Westness,  and  so  orderly  up  the  gate  two  and  two  by  turns  daily,  and  appoints  the 
Treasurer  to  provide  and  fix  as  many  sufficient  Stoups  as  shall  be  thought  necessar  for  Securing 
Ships  or  boats  in  their  out  and  in  Coming."  J 

The  "  Great  Boat "  indicated  above  was  the  specific  name  for  the  largest  class  of  open 
boats  used  in  the  islands.  For  instance  :— "  6th  August  1662. — It  is  appointed,  contracted, 
and  agreed  upon  between  Thomas  Baikie,  Skipper,  in  Kirkwall,  on  the  one  part,  and  James 
Maxwell,  in  Midgar,  and  John  Brown,  in  Housbie,  in  Stronsay,  on  the  other  part,  that  the 
said  Thomas  Baikie,  his  heirs,  etc.,  do  cause  build  ane  great  boat  of  or  about  the  burden  of 
three  score  and  twelve  meill.s,  of  threttie  foot  of  keel,  with  six  stroak  of  oack  round  about, 
with  three  (»aken  balks  and  six  iron  bolts,  with  six  knee  heads  upon  the  said  balks,  with  twa 
masts  and  six  oares,  with  ane  hung  back  rudder  of  oack  and  helme  conforme,  with  ane  pump 
and  roan  and  pumpstafe,  and  that  her  fluir  bands  be  no  wyder  betwixt  than  ane  foot,  and  also 
to  cause  build  the  said  boat  of  ane  sufficient  mould  with  ane  foirfute  till  the  foir  balk  suffi- 
ciently prickit  and  made  water  tight,  and  that  the  said  boat  with  her  said  furniture  be 
compleat  and  ready  upon  the  shore  of  Kirkwall  not  later  than  the  15th  March  1663,  for  which 
boat  so  to  be  built  the  said  James  and  John  bind  themselves  to  pay  to  the  said  Thomas  £120 
Scots,  whereof  j£60  to  be  paid  presently  and  the  £100  at  delivery  of  said  boat." 

*  To  carry  out  these  works,  Mr  Wilson,  contractor,  came  to  Kirkwall  with  his  family,  and  thus 
his  SOD,  the  brave  Major  Wilson,  who  with  his  gallant  little  band  perished  in  the  Matabele  war, 
received  his  early  education  in  the  Kirkwall  Grammar  School. 

t  House  in  Anchor  Close.        t  C.  R.,  27th  March  1722. 


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376  KIRKWALL   IN   TJHE  ORKNEYS. 

Foreign  vessels  were  frequently  wrecked  upon  our  islands,  and  if  the  country  to  which 
any  such  unfortunate  ship  belonged  were  at  war  with  Britain,  the  wreck  would  be  adjudged  a 
prize,  sold  by  the  crown  authorities,  and  probably  bought  by  a  local  merchant  in  the  hope  of 
making  a  profit  off  the  materials.  Such  a  vessel  was  purchased  by  James  Baikie  of  Tanker- 
ness  some  time  previous  to  September  1686,  and  was  laid  on  the  Aire  to  be  broken  up.  After 
lying  at  least  a  year,  on  Tuesday,  30th  August,  "  about  2  in  the  afternoon,  Jon.  Sabiston  and 
Thos.  Foubister,  wrights  in  Kirkwall,  entered  to  break  down  the  pryse  at  the  end  of  the  air."* 

In  those  days  Orcadians  did  not  willingly  let  go  the  chance  of  securing  a  prize  :— 5th 
June  1691,  Friday  night,  between  9  and  10  in  the  evening,  the  ship  that  came  ashore  at 
Westray  upon  Monday  night  last  past,  said  to  be  a  French  vessell,  sailed  to  Kirkwall  road, 
and  conducted  there  by  Geo.  Balfour  of  Pharay,  Geo.  Traill  of  Holland,  and  others,  their 
servants."  26th  June,  "Friday,  the  said  ship  sailed  from  Kirkwall  road  to  Westray,  com- 
manded by  Geo.  Traill  of  Holland,  with  the  whole  crew  of  inaister  and  mariners,  to  be  kept 
there  until  a  return  from  the  Counsel  of  Scotland  might  shew  whether  she  was  prize  or  not."  t 

That  the  crews  of  such  prizes  came  to  be  badly  off  there  is  proof : — **  Captain  Monschow, 
one  of  the  ffrenchmen  residing  now  in  Toun,  and  being  in  distress,  did  come  to  one  of  the 
ministers  and  crave  supplie.  The  Session,  taking  the  same  to  consideration,  appoints  the 
Trer.  to  give  him  ten  shill.  ster.  in  Charity."!  Next  year  he  got  £3  Scots  "  to  help  airry  him 
off."  "Monschow"  is  plainly  Orcadian-French  for  "Monsieur,"  the  captain's  family  name 
having  evidently  been  unpronounceable. 

But  while  the  Aire  was  a  place  for  breaking  up  old  ships,  it  was  also  a  suitable  spot  for 
building  new  ones.  Thomas  Brown  records,  with  some  surprise,  the  shortness  of  time  in  which 
one  vessel  was  built.  "Thos.  Orchard,  with  the  rest  of  his  men,  placed  the  ship  he  intended 
to  build  upon  the  Stocks  upon  the  air  near  the  pryse."§  "  Friday,  abt.  10,  The  vessel  or  ship 
pertaining  to  Alexr.  Geddes  and  built  upon  the  air  of  Kirkwall,  was  launched  and  brought 
from  thence  and  placed  on  ye  east  side  of  ye  pryse  pertaining  to  Tankerness,  at  the  west  end 
of  the  shoar  and  air  of  Kirkwall."  ||  "  Alexr.  Geddes,  his  new  vessel  or  ship  built  upon  the  air 
of  Kirkwall,  was  hailed  from  the  shoar  to  the  road  there,  which  ship  was  begun  and  enterat  to 
be  built  from  the  Kiell  and  upward  by  Thos.  Orchard,  James  Halcro,  and  others.  Carpenters, 
14  Sept.  1686."  IT 

Alexander  Geddes,  afterwards  Bailie  Geddes,  already  had  a  ship  :— 23rd  August  1682, 
"  Being  Wednesday,  Alexr.  Geddes  arrived  at  Kirkwall  from  Holland  with  his  vessel  or  ship, 
qrin  was  ye  Great  Bell  of  Kirkwall,  returned  after  ye  casting  thereof  at  Rotterdam."* 

A  northerly  gale  tells  severely  upon  this  beach  :— "  Monday,  betwixt  11  and  12  of  the  day, 
there  was  a  storm  of  wind  at  the  north,  and  there  was  a  great  boat  blown  out  of  the  nowst  at 
the  air  pertaining  to  David  Covingtrie  to  the  shore  of  Glaitness."  t 

The  Aire  being  universally  regarded  as  a  healthful  promenade,  the  authorities  took  more 
care  of  this  "walk"  than  of  any  part  of  the  town. J  William  Traill,  Dean-of-Guild,  gave 
orders  to  "  redd,  right,  and  clean  the  common  walk  commonly  called  the  Aire,  now  out  of 
order  by  the  winter  storms."§  The  same  Dean-of-Guild  "Appoints  all  that  have  sparr  or 
other  Timbers  upon  the  walk  called  the  Aire,  do  remove  the  same  to  the  South  syde  of  the 
Aire,  and  lay  the  same  one  end  to  the  East  and  the  oyr  end  to  the  West,  soe  as  that  walk  may 
be  better  cleaned  and  more  commodious  for  walking,  also  that  no  ware  or  sea  wrack  be  laid 
upon  that  walk  within  four  foot  thereof  on  both  sydes." 

The  necessity  for  having  strong  "  stoups  "  at  the  point  of  the  Aire  arose  from  the  strength 

♦  T.  B.        t  T.  B.        t  S.  R.,  5th  Sept.  1720.        §  14tb  Sept.  1686.         ||  29th  June  1687. 
ir  23rd  August.         *  T.  B.        t  T.  B.,  8th  December  1690.        J  C.  R.,  2l8t  March  1720. 
§  C.  R.,  27th  March  1722. 


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THE   AIRE  AND  PEERIE  SEA.  377 

of  the  tide  through  the  Oyce  mouth.    Boats  could  go  flying  out  and  in  on  the  ebb  or  flood 
tide,  but  larger  vessels  coining  in  without  a  check  would  be  very  apt  to  get  ashore. 

In  the  gale  which  blew  down  the  front  of  David  TrailPs  house,  and  which  drove  David 
Covingtrie's  great  boat  out  of  her  noust  across  to  Glaitness,  two  vessels  lying  in  the  roads 
broke  adrift.  They  belonged  to  Patrick  Fea  and  Edward  Scollay,  and  before  the  north  wind^ 
and  evidently  on  a  flood  tide,  getting  into  "  the  track  of  the  oyce,  they  were  both  blown  very 
near  to  Pickaquoy."  These  were  probably  smacks,  but  whatever  their  rig,  they  were  of  size 
sufficient  for  carrying  on  a  Continental  trade.  Though  having  no  great  draught,  yet  the  fact 
of  their  being  "  blown  very  near  to  Pickaquoy  "  points  to  a  deeper  **  Peerie  Sea  "  than  the  last 
few  generations  have  known.  A  stray  porpoise  occasionally  found  his  way  into  the  Oyce. 
**  Tuesday  morning.  There  was  a  pallaig  whale  came  to  the  shore  of  Mudisquoy  or  thereby,, 
within  the  oyce  of  Kirkwall,  and  about  eleven  of  the  same  day,  Thomas  Flett,  borrowman^ 
towed  the  same  from  that  part  to  Oversanday's  back  dyke."*  The  bulk  of  the  Kirkwall 
shipping  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century  lay  up  in  the  winter  on  the  south  side  of  the  Aire. 

**  Kirkwall,  the  fourteenth  day  of  March,  seventeen  hundred  and  thirty  years. 

"  Sederunt — John  Covingtrie,  Lord  Provost,  etc.,  etc. 

*'  The  said  day  there  was  a  petition  Signed  by  the  Shipmasters  and  owners  of  the  ships  in  the 
Burgh  presented  in  Councill,  Setting  furth  that  the  Entry  or  Oyce  mouth  of  the  Burgh  through  which 
Ships  are  brought  to  their  winter  Docks  is  ver^  much  filled  up  in  the  outgoing  and  Incoming  of  the 
saia  Oyse,  in  Iwth  Svdes  of  the  poynt  of  the  Aire  of  Kirkwall,  with  Stones,  Gravill,  and  Sand,  which 
is  greatly  prejudicial!  and  consumes  a  great  deall  of  time  in  setting  ships  carried  out  and  in  of  the 
said  Oyse,  and  praying  that  the  Magistrats  and  Councill  would  take  such  Measures  for  Cleaning  the 
said  Oyse  mouth  as  to  them  sliould  seem  Most  fitt  and  Convenient. 

**  The  saids  Magistrats  and  Councill  having  Considcrd  the  said  Petition,  finds  the  desire  thereof 
Reasonable,  And  Do  unanimously  Agree  that  Iwo  flott  Bottomed  Boats  be  Built  for  carrieing  of  the 
Rubbish  and  Chingle,  both  wtin.  and  wtout.  the  said  Oyse,  flfour  shode  Shovels,  Two  picks,  Two  boat 
hooks,  and  two  Spaids,  and  what  else  may  be  necessary  for  that  end  ;  And  Recomend  to  and 
Impower  Donald  Groatt,  pnt.  Dean-of-Guild  of  this  Burgh,  to  cause  build  the  said  two  flott 
Bottomed  Boats  with  all  expedition.  And  to  furnish  the  other  Instrunients,  And  to  Agree  with  ffour 
Men,  at  Sight  of  any  one  of  the  Magistrats  And  tMo  or  three  of  the  Councill,  for  working  in  the  saids 
Boats,  And  to  pay  them  their  wages  weekly  as  they  shall  be  agreed  with  ;  And  whatever  he  shall 
dispurse  in  that  matter,  the  Magistrats  and  Councill  do  all  agree  the  same  shall  be  allowed  to  him  to 
Accompt  of  his  Intromissions  with  the  pubiick  of  this  Burgh  in  his  hands ;  And  Recommend  to  the 
sd.  Dean-of-Guild  to  Speake  to  George  Blair,  Mercht.  in  Kirkwall,  to  overaee  the  said  work,  and  to 
agree  with  him  at  Sight  for»iid.  And  after  the  said  oyse  mouth  is  Cleaned  wtin.  and  wtout.,  that 
there  be  so  much  Cut  of  the  poynt  of  the  Aire  as  shall  be  found  needfull,  and  qt.  Rubbish  and  Gravill 
yrof,  together  with  the  haill  other  Gravill  wtin.  and  wtout.  the  oyse,  be  carried  on  the  Aire  and 
exactly  Leavellcd,  so  as  to  make  aue  handsome  walk,  and  yrafter,  to  make  a  strong  head,  a  Wall  at 
the  poynt  ot  the  Aire,  of  Bigg  gray  Stones  ;  And  Lykewayes  to  depurse  what  is  needfull  for  doing 
yrof  and  for  building  the  floatt  Boats  and  making  the  oyr  recjuisites.  And  to  sett  down  ffour  Strong 
Stoups  at  the  said  head  at  Convenient  distances,  all  which  shall  be  allowed  to  the  sd.  Dean-of-Guild. 

Having  cleared  and  deepened  the  Oyce  mouth,  the  Magistrates  resolved  the  year  following 
to  do  something  for  the  Oyce  itself.  "  The  Magistrates  and  Councill  Unanimously  agree  that 
the  two  float  Bottomed  boats  be  beittt  and  repaired,  and  men  be  putt  to  work  for  clearing 
the  Oyse  this  summer."  J 

When  the  Oyce  came  up  to  the  gardens  of  the  houses  in  the  Midtown  and  Laverock,  it 
gave  a  very  picturescjue  appearance  to  Kirkwall,  a  beauty  which  even  yet  is  not  altogether 
lost,  while  the  rapid  current  which  filled  and  emptied  the  Peerie  Sea  at  the  flow  and  ebb  of 
the  tide  did  much  for  the  sanitation  of  the  town. 

A  cart  road  from  the  head  of  the  town  ran  by  the  side  of  the  Craftie  round  the  shore  of 
the  Oyce  up  to  the  farm  of  Grain  and  to  the  peat  castings  on  the  east  and  north  slopes  of  Wide- 
ford  Hill.    To  reach  that  road  from  the  town  dry  shod,  stepping-stones  were  laid  down  for  the 

•  T.  B.,  6th  Dec.  1681.        t  Caulked.        X  C.  R.,  28th  May  1731. 

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378  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

benefit  of  foot  passengers.  One  set  of  these  was  at  the  foot  of  Mr  Oliver  Scott's  garden, 
second  from  the  lower  end  of  the  Clay  Loan.  Another  set  was  placed  fourth  garden  farther 
down,  Mr  Marwick's. 

The  glory  of  the  Oyce  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  has  moulded  Orcadian  history  into  the  form 
which  it  has  taken.  It  was  the  Vagr  of  the  Vikings,  within  which  their  fleets  wintered  in 
safety  ;  and  from  this,  in  natural  sequence,  come  the  Norse  town,  the  Hall  of  the  Earls, 
Brusion's  Kirk,  Rognwald's  Cathedral,  with  castle,  palaces,  prelates,  and  princes.  Now, 
however,  the  shrunken  Oyce  is  indeed  the  Peerie  Sea,  and  year  by  year  it  becomes  peerier. 

In  1818,  Mr  Baikie  of  Tanker ness  proposed  that  "  there  should  be  a  road  made  from  the 
west  pier  to  the  School  Wynd,"*  but  this  was  not  carried  out.  In  1859,  Kirkwall  got  her 
Harbour  Act,  and  in  1865  the  main  street  of  the  town  was  relieved  of  some  of  its  heavy  and 
increasing  traffic  by  the  formation  of  Junction  Road  and  the  opening  of  Castle  Street. 

Between  the  present  Slaughter  House  and  the  neighbouring  feu,  the  old  road  to  Grain 
strikes  off.  This  point  is  sometimes  yet  known  as  Eraser's  Corner,  from  the  former  proprietor 
of  a  house  at  the  head  of  the  lane  which  leads  down  to  it  from  Victoria  Street. 

The  field  known  as  the  **  Craftie  "  has  asserted  its  right  to  a  place  in  the  burgh  records. 
This  little  croft  has  now  been  thoroughly  reclaimed  from  the  sea,  and  is  used  by  the  towns- 
j)eople  and  their  children  for  various  puriK)ses.  It  serves  as  playground  and  bleach-green, 
and  it  has  done  duty  as  a  market  place  and  as  a  field  for  volunteer  parade.  That  it  now 
belongs  to  the  burgh  is  past  doubt,  but  the  manner  in  which  the  dispute  for  possession 
between  Town  and  Crown  was  decided  savours  more  of  craft  than  of  equity.  The  following 
letter  from  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness  to  Mr  Ijoch,  the  Burgh  Member,  gives  a  fair  descrip- 
tion of  the  place  as  it  was  sixty  years  ago,  and  is  an  interesting  little  bit  of  history  extending 
to  fifty  years  beyond  that  : — 

"  Kirkwall,  7th  March  1836. 

**  My  Dear  Sir, — At  tlie  desire  of  a  Meeting  of  the  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall  on  Saturday  last, 
I  beg  to  request  that  you  will  be  so  good  as  lay  the  following  statement  before  the  Honbls.  the  Coin- 
missionei-s  of  his  Majestie's  Woods  and  Forests  : — By  an  advertisement  issued  by  the  Cliamberlain  for 
the  Bisliopric  Lands  in  Orkney,  a  prosecution  for  tresspass,  among  other  places,  is  threatened  if  any 
one  is  found  upon  a  place  called  the  Little  Crofty  of  Kirkwall.  This  is  an  accumulation  of  Sand  and 
Gravel  upon  a  part  of  the  Banks  of  the  little  sea  of  Kirkwall,  which  occtusionall^  overflows  it,  and  is 
in  fact  of  so  little  value  that,  but  from  the  circumstance  of  the  Burgh  having  some  years  ago  fewed 
it  for  the  purpose  of  Building  Houses  upon,  it  would  not  be  worth  making  any  objection  to  the  crown 
selling  it,  as  it  is  presumed  the  preliminary  steps  of  an  Interdict  in<licatcs. 

"  It  seems  that  upwards  of  50  years  ago  an  attempt  was  made  to  Evict  this  property,  but  the 
Town  Council  successfully  resisted  it  in  the  local  courts,  and  have  since  fewed  it  to  several  persons, 
who,  having  found  it  not  worth  the  expence  necessary  for  Banking  out  the  sea  an«l  digging  very  deep 
for  a  foundation,  have  abandoned  the  attempt  of  building  upon  it.  These  people  would  therefore  be 
well  pleased  at  any  circumstance  which  could  vitiate  the  Title  of  these  Fews,  as  they  would,  of  course, 
come  upon  the  Burgh  for  Repetititm,  which,  in  the  present  low  ebb  of  their  Finances,  would  prove 
disastrous.  What,  therefore,  tlie  Town  Council  request  of  you  is  to  entreat  the  Honble.  the  Board  of 
Commissioners  to  instruct  their  Chamberlain  here  to  depart  from  this  Interdict  an<l  to  leave  their 
title  undisturbed — as  in  reality  it  is  not  worth  the  Expence  of  removing  the  present  boundary  wall  of 
the  Bishitpric  property,  which  it  would  not  enhance  Five  pound  in  value,  while,  on  the  other  hand, 
the  Burgh  will  be  involved  in  great  loss  if  their  Title  is  at  all  invaded.       (Signed)    Ja.  Baikie." 

When  Mr  Baikie  made  this  appeal  he  had  been  Provost  for  just  a  month,  having 
succeeded  Captain  W.  Balfour  of  Elwick  on  the  6th  February  1836,  and  the  zeal  inspired  by 
the  recent  civic  honour  may  have  dimmed  his  eyes  to  the  shady  hue  of  the  transaction. 

•  Tankerness  Lane. 


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CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Back  of  Town. 

^N  the  landward  side,  Kirkwall  was  bounded  by  a  series  of  quoys  and  the  farms  of 
Pabdale  and  Weyland.  The  uncultivated  hill  outside  a  town  dyke  was  called  the 
seatter.  A  part  of  the  scatter,  enclosed  and  cultivated,  was  a  quoy.  If  the  quoy  fell 
out  of  cultivation,  but  continued  enclosed,  it  became  a  toft.  When  the  town  dyke  was 
diverted  so  as  to  take  in  a  part  of  the  seatter,  a  tumale  was  formed.* 

Of  the  quoys  surrounding  the  town  the  westmoat  is  Pipersquoy,  called,  in  the  rental  of 
1595,  Clarkisquoy.  Beyond  it  lay  Hornersquoy,  cut  through  by  the  road  to  Scapa  pier. 
An  enclosed  space,  described  in  1677  as  lying  behind  the  houses  of  Farquhar,  Richan,  and 
Pottinger,  "  being  ane  pendicle  of  Quoybanks,"  has  had  many  owners  and  several  names.  It 
was  known  as  the  "  Little  Park,"  the  "  Green  Park,"  and  **  Greentoft"  ;  but  more  interesting 
than  these  names  was  that  given  to  the  dyke  at  the  north-west  corner — the  "  Resting  Dyke.^' 

The  Peerie  Sea  came  nearly  up  to  this  ;  the  town  began  here,  and  all  visitors  from  the 
west  passed  this  way.  There  was  no  road  by  the  Aire,  the  earliest  bridge  over  the  Oyce- 
mouth  dating  from  1839.  Weary  pedestrians  were  glad  to  reach  the  Resting  Dyke.  Down 
from  the  peat  banks  of  Wideford  Hill  the  way  into  the  town  was  by  the  Neukatineuks,  and 
the  Resting  Dyke  heard  many  a  sigh  of  relief  as  the  heavy  caisey  dropped  from  the  bent  back 
upon  its  broad,  divoty  top. 

From  the  "  Little  Park  "  to  the  Clay  Loan,  Quoybanks  is  the  boundary  of  the  Laverock. 
From  the  days  of  Bishop  Graham  this  has  been  the  glebe  of  the  minister  of  the  First  Charge 
in  Kirkwall. +  Poor  as  Quoybanks  was,  and  perhaps  because  it  was  poor,  the  minister 
required  to  keep  an  eye  upon  his  neighbours  to  prevent  encroachments  on  his  glebe.  In  1692, 
Mr  Wilson,  for  himself  and  his  successors,  protested  against  the  "  unwarrantable  intrusion  " 
of  Magnus  Taylor,  who  had  built  not  only  such  temporary  fabrics  as  peat-stacks,  but  had 
actually  put  up  houses  upon  the  "glybe  lands."  Before  the  Council  Taylor  produced  a 
charter  granted  by  Robert  Richan,  but  the  municipal  court  refused  to  recognise  the  litster's 
power  to  grant  such  a  charter,  and  ordained  the  Dean-of-Guild  to  see  that  the  buildings  com- 
plained of  should  be  removed  or  subjected  to  "  ane  annuall  payment." 

From  the  Clay  Loan  down  to  the  garden  wall  of  the  old  Post-Oftice,  Quoyangrie  was  the 
eastern  boundary  of  the  town.  In  the  rental  of  1595  it  is  called  Cuikisquoy.  The  name  is 
got  from  the  title  of  an  important  officer  in  Earl  Patrick's  household,  Adrian  the  cook. 
Adrian,  whose  family  name  is  lost,  held  lands  in  other  parts  of  the  Mainland— Banks  in 
Orphir,  for  instance— but,  as  his  calling  kept  him  pretty  much  confined,  his  interest  in  |)roperty 
was  limited  to  drawing  the  rent.  His  fellow-servant,  however,  the  Earl's  gardener,  found 
time,  and  evidently  had  permission  from  his  lordship,  to  work  for  his  own  profit  outside  the 
*  Balfour's  Memorials.  t  See  anit^  p.  245. 


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380  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

palace  garden.  Accordingly,  Anderson  the  gardener  rented  from  Adrian  the  cook  his  quoy, 
and  along  with  it  he  had  the  adjoining  field,  Butquoy.  It  is  pleasant  to  find  little  instances 
here  and  there  which  go  to  prove  that,  to  his  household.  Earl  Patrick  was  not  unkind. 

Not  long  after  the  days  of  Adrian,  the  cook,  and  Walter  Anderson,  the  gardener,  these 
two  quoys  belonged  to  James  Morrison,  from  whom  they  were  acquired  by  Arthur  Baikie  of 
Tankerness.  These  had  been  bishopric  lands,  and  James  Baikie,  evidently  doubtful  of  the 
validity  of  his  title,  secured  in  1679  a  Charter  of  Resignation  from  Bishop  Murdoch  of  "All 
and  haill  the  two  Quoyes  of  land  callit  Butquoy  and  Quoyangrie,  with  the  teynd  sheaves  yrof, 
includit  yrwith,  qlkis  were  never  in  use,  to  be  separate'  from  ye  stook  lyand  neir  ye  toun  of 
Kirkwall,  and  boundit  betwixt  ye  comon  loan  on  the  east,  the  oyer  comon  loan  on  the  south, 
the  yards  of  the  tenements  lyand  in  ye  laverock  of  Kirkwall  on  the  west,  and  ye  Bishop's 
lodging,  callit  the  place  in  the  yardis,  with  the  quoy  callit  Rowisquoy  on  the  north,  with  ane 
other  little  loan  betwixt  ye  saids  quoys."  By  this  time  the  dykes  of  Butquoy  had  become 
•dilapidated  ;  and  **  Wednesday,*  Tankerness  servants  in  S.  Andrews  parrochine,  with  the 
parrochiners  yrof,  entered  the  building  of  the  dyke  of  the  quoy  appointed  for  a  park,  wch 
formerlie  belonged  to  James  Morrisone,  wch  quoy  hath  been  named  Butquoy,  next  the 
gallows." 

Marching  with  Butquoy  was  Rowisquoy,  now  called  Brandiequoy.  The  triangular  space, 
having  its  base  towards  the  east  wall  of  the  churchyard  and  its  apex  opposite  the  U.P. 
Church,  was  part  of  Rowisquoy,  cut  off  at  the  making  of  the  road  from  Broad  Street  in  1822. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  Brandiequoy  was  the  fashionable  promenade  of  the 
town.  In  1827,  however,  it  showed  all  the  unsightly  symptoms  of  neglect,  and  the  following 
circular  was  sent  round  among  the  elite : — 

"Promenade  in  Brand yquoy. 

"  These  walks  being  now  much  overgrown  with  weeds,  it  is  necessary  for  the  comfort  of  those 
frequenting  them  that  they  receive  a  thorough  cleaning  and  an  addition  of  gravel.  As  no  charge  has 
been  made  on  the  subscribers  for  two  years,  within  which  the  walks  have  been  regularly  clean^  and 
a  Door  and  Lock  fumishtd  at  the  East  end,  it  is  expected  that  each  subscribert  will  now  contribute 
one  shilling.  (Signed)        W.  L. 

"4th  Dec." 

"  W.  L.,"  who  took  the  trouble  of  looking  after  the  pleasure  ground,  was  the  Rev.  Wm. 
Logie,  afterwards  Dr  Logic,  minister  of  the  First  Charge  in  the  Cathedral,  and  from  a  letter 
of  his  we  learn  the  rent  paid  for  the  place  : — 

**  Daisybank,  9th  Feb.  1832. 

**  Dear  Sir, — In  regard  to  Braudy^uoy,  I  hew!  paid  the  expenses  of  dressing  the  ground  occupied 
with  trees. /or  the  year  ended  at  Martinmas  1831,  before  we  had  settled  the  new  terms  of  lease,  and 
therefore  I  presume  it  will  be  for  the  year  ending  at  Marts.  1832  that  I  will  have  first  to  pay  the  rent 
of  10/.     I  enclose  the  stipend  receipt,  and  am  respectfully,  Dear  Sir,  your  faithful  Obed.  St., 

(Signed)        William  Logie. 

**  Thomas  Graham,  Esq." 

The  necessity  of  such  a  place  of  recreation  becomes  apparent  when  we  remember  that  in 

♦  29th  Aug.  1688,  T.B. 

+  There  were  forty-nine  subscribers : — Mr  Logie,  George  Petrie,  Mr  Traill,  Woodwick  ;  Mr 
Shirreflf,  Mr  Mackenzie,  Mr  Craig,  P.  Flett,  Peter  Calder,  Mrs  Murray,  Mr  Henderson,  Andrew 
Louttit,  Mrs  Thuring,  Mr  Mitchell,  Mr  Traill,  Frotoft ;  Mr  Thos.  Spence,  R.N.  ;  Mr  Spence, 
banker ;  Mr  Bain,  Mr  Patton,  John  Tait,  Dr  Bremner,  James  Chalmers,  William  Simpson,  Robert 
Spence,  Dr  Duguid,  James  Anderson,  Mr  PoUexfen,  Mr  Baikie,  Mr  Gil.  Traill,  Mrs  Dunn,  Mr  D, 
Erskine,  Miss  PoUexfen,  James  Taylor,  Mr  R.  Louttit,  Mr  Scarth,  Mr  John  Baikie,  George  Hewison, 
Mrs  \ule,  Miss  Traill,  Mr  P.  Fotheringham,  Mr  Sands,  Mr  Hutton,  Mr  Brotchie,  Mr  David  Warren, 
Robert  Flett,  Capt.  Balfour,  Robert  Borwick,  James  Walls,  James  Leask,  Mrs  Cowan. 


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BACK   OF  TOWN.  381 

the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  there  were  no  roads  on  which  people  could  with  comfort  take 
exercise. 

The  site  of  the  Grammar  School  had  been  granted  at  a  nominal  feu  by  Mr  Laing  of 
Pabdale,  but  the  playground  was  in  the  corner  of  Brandiequoy,  cut  off  by  the  road — a  space 
granted  by  the  Commissioners  of  Her  Majesty's  Woods  and  Forests.  Mr  Craig,  along  with 
the  school  boys,  levelled  and  enclosed  their  ground,  and  when  His  Majesty  resumed  posses.sion 
in  1836,  they  naturally  put  in  a  claim  for  their  labour  and  outlay.  They  sent  in  their  account 
to  the  Chamberlain,  Mr  Graham,  who  forwarded  it  to  London  and  got  a  reply  : — 

*«  Office  of  Woods,  &c.,  25th  June  1839. 

"Sir, — The  Commissioners  of  Her  Majesty's  Woods,  Ac,  have  had  under  their  consideration 
your  letter  of  10th  inst.  representing  claim  made  by  Mr  James  Craig,  Teacher  of  the  Grammar 
School  at  Kirkwall,  for  compensation  in  respect  of  money  to  the  extent  of  £20  and  of  labour  valued 
at  £3,  expended  by  the  scholars  at  Kirkwall  in  1832  in  enclosing,  draining,  and  levelling  a  portion  of 
the  lands  of  Brandiquoy,  then  and  previously  held  by  the  Schoolmaster  under  an  order  of  the 
Barons  of  Exchequer  in  1820,  and  which  was  recalled  when  this  ground  was  resumed  by  the  Commis- 
sioners in  1836  for  the  purpose  of  being  put  up  for  sale  with  the  rest  of  the  lands  of  Brandyquoy  ;  and 
enclosing  an  account  (without  date)  for  £11  Ss  4d,  appearing  to  be  paid  to  James  Allan,  a  mason,  for 
quarrying  stones,  carting,  and  building  a  dike  to  surround  this  piece  of  ground,  and  a  Certificate  of 
tne  sum  and  labour  specified  having  b^n  laid  out. 

"  And  I  have  on  the  Board^s  behalf  to  acquaint  you  that,  under  all  the  circumstances  of  this  case, 
Mr  Craig's  Claim  cannot  be  entertained  by  them.  The  terms  of  the  Barons'  Order  under  which  this 
ground  was  hel<l  as  a  play-ground  appear  to  have  been  wholly  neglected  ;  and  the  ground  up  to  1832 
was  left  entirely  unfit  for  the  purpose  for  which  its  occupation  waa  permitted,  and  it  was  in  part  used 
for  other  purposes.  The  expenditure  in  question  appears  to  have  oeen  incurred  consequent  on  your 
havine  pointed  out  the  misapplication  that  had  taken  place  respecting  the  plot  of  ground,  and  was 

grovided  for  by  Subscription  among  the  Parents  of  the  Scholars,  and  the  labour  was  supplied  by  the 
cholai-s  themselves  ;  and  consequently  there  does  not  appear  anything  in  the  transaction  that  can 
entitle  Mr  Craig  to  compensation.  (Signed)        A.  Milne." 

The  Crown  Chamberlain  evidently  had  a  personal  regard  for  Mr  Craig,  and  this  was  not 
the  first  favour  he  had  tried  to  secure  for  the  teacher  :— 

•*  Office  of  Woods,  Ac,  Nov.  15th,  1836. 

"  Sir, — The  Commissioners  of  His  Majesty's  Woods,  &c.,  have  considered  your  Report  of  the  24th 
ulto.  relative  to  the  disposal  of  the  lands  of  Glaitness  and  Brandyquoy  and  of  the  house  adjoining  the 
ruins  of  the  Bishop's  Palace. 

*'  And  I  have  to  convey  to  you  their  authority  for  letting  the  lands  of  Brandyquoy  and  the  House 
adjoining  for  the  Ter.n  recommended  in  your  said  Report,  under  proper  Covenants  for  the  protection 
of  the  property  and  subject  to  the  clause  of  resumption  suggested  by  you,  at  the  highest  rent  which 
yon  can  procure  for  the  same. 

*'\\ith  reference  to  your  suggestion  that  the  House  and  Land  may  be  let  to  Mr  Craig  at  a 
reduced  rent  to  indemnify  him  for  the  value  of  the  parcels  of  the  property  which  have  been  resumed 
by  the  Crown,  I  have  to  acquaint  you  that  the  (]k)mmi8sioner8  cannot  entertain  that  claim  in  connec- 
tion with  any  treaty  with  Mr  Craig  for  the  tenancy  of  these  premises. — I  am,  etc." 

The  house  referred  to  as  **  adjoining  the  ruins  of  the  Bishop's  Palace  "  was  the  Old  Manse. 
It  was  a  substantial  edifice,  as  is  manifest  from  a  "Report  of  the  state  of  the  Manse  of 
Kirkwall,  and  of  the  manner  of  repairing  the  same  so  as  to  make  it  sufficient,  under  a  remit 
from  the  Sheriff  of  Orkney,  dated  the  31  st  May  1827."  "  It  is  evident  that  the  Manse  in 
question  has  been  the  subject  of  many  repairs  and  of  some  additions ;  notwithstanding  of  this 
and  having  stood  the  blast  of  ages,  the  Masonry  of  it  is  in  perfect  good  order,  the  walls  being 
of  extra  thickness  and  built  of  the  very  best  materials  commonly  used  in  the  Country,  and 
that  in  the  most  solid  and  compact  manner."  It  was  occupied  as  a  manse  in  1639,  and  its 
first  tenants  were  James  Heind,  A.M.,  St.  Andrews,  and  Agnes  Young,  his  wife.*  The  previous 
incumbent,  Mr  Patrick  Inglis,  occupied  the  "  Chaplain's  Chambers,"  head  of  Broad  Street. 

•  Presb.  Rec. 


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382  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Mr  Heind  was  the  first  Presbyterian  minister  to  occupy  the  Cathedral  pulpit,  Episcopacy  just 
then  suffering  from  a  temporary  disestablishment.  It  was  probably  he  who  suggested  the 
lines  over  the  doorway  : — 

*'  Omnia  terrena  per  vices  sunt  aliens, 

Nunc  mea  tunc  hujus, 

Poet  mortem  nescio  cu jus. " 

Mr  Heind  died,  1641,  about  32  years  of  age,  and  was  succeeded  by  Mr  George  Johnston, 
who  was  translated  from  Sanquhar.  In  1647,  Mr  Johnston  was  presented  to  Orphir,  and  Mr 
James  Douglas  became  tenant  of  the  Manse.  The  ministers  of  Orkney  having  subscribed  an 
address  to  the  Marquis  of  Montrose,  were  for  so  doing  deposed  by  the  General  Assembly. 
Before  deniitting,  however,  Mr  Douglas  had  let  his  Manse,  with  results  which  he  could  not 
foresee.  "  Within  the  area  and  iron  gates  was  the  minister's  manse,*^  a  long  house,  well  lighted, 
with  sufficient  rooms  ;  the  same  is  also  now  ruinous,  and  the  occasion  of  its  going  to  ruin  was 
this  :~In  the  days  of  Cromwell's  usurpation,  there  being  an  English  garrison  in  Orkney,  the 
Governor  and  principal  persons  resided  in  Kirkwall.  Mr  James  Douglas  being  then  Minister 
of  Kirkwall,  and  living  in  said  manse.  Governor  Watson,  for  so  he  was  called,  desired  of  the 
minister  the  favour  of  his  manse  for  a  lodging  because  it  lay  conveniently  for  him,  being 
within  the  gates  of  the  palace,  promising  to  pay  forty-eight  pounds  Scots  money  yearly,  and 
to  leave  it  in  as  good  ccjndition  when  he  should  be  called  off.  The  Session  records  of  Kirkwall 
bear  that  the  said  Governor  did  pay,  according  to  promise,  punctually  when  required. 
But  Mr  Douglas  being  suspended  for  countenancing  Montrose,  who  was  then  under  sentence 
of  excommunication,  when  the  Governor  on  the  restoration  of  King  Charles  II.  went  off,  and 
80,  not  having  a  title  to  the  manse,  did  not  seek  to  re-enter  it,  by  which  means  it  went 
somewhat  to  decay  ;  and  when,  upon  the  introduction  of  Episcopacy  and  Mr  Douglas' 
conforming  thereto,  he  would  have  returned,  he  could  not  until  it  should  be  repaired.  The 
town  refused  to  repair  it  because  it  was  not  within  their  precincts,  and  the  Bishop  refused  to 
do  it  because  it  was  the  manse  of  the  minister  of  the  town  ;  but  in  a  session  at  Kirkwall, 
where  Bishop  Honeyman  was  present  with  the  Magistrates,  they  agreed  that  the  Bishop  pay 
yearly  twenty-four  pounds  Scots  in  lieu  of  house-mails,  and  the  town  as  much,  making  in 
whole  forty-eight  pounds  money  foresaid,  aye  and  while  the  manse  should  be  repaired,  by 
those  who  should  be  found  liable  in  law  to  re])air  it ;  and  from  that  time  to  this  present  the 
town's  part,  being  twenty-four  pounds  Scots,  hath  been  and  is  paid  yearly  out  of  the  Kirk 
treasury  of  the  Session  of  Kirkwall.  The  Bishop's  part  also  was  paid  by  Bishop  Honeyman 
and  Bishop  Mackenzie,  until  the  said  Bishop  Mackenzie's  last  year  in  1687  ;  but  since  the 
Revolution  the  said  minister  never  got  anything  out  of  the  bishopric  on  that  account." 

During  the  suspension  of  Mr  Douglas  the  pulpit  was  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Alexander 
Lennox,  the  English  Governor  holding  the  Manse.  Mr  Lennox  was  a  graduate  of  Glasgow 
University  and  a  zealous  presbyterian.  He  was  deprived  in  1661,  and  ten  years  later  he  got 
into  trouble  for  holding  conventicles.  Mr  Douglas  returned  to  Kirkwall  in  1661,  but  did  not 
occupy  the  Manse. 

As  to  Governor  Watson's  promise  that  the  minister  should  have  his  Manse  returned  in  as 
good  order  as  it  was  when  he  left  it,  the  assumption  is  that  General  Monk  withdrew  the 
garrison  in  some  haste,  or  undoubtedly  the  last  Governor  would  have  redeemed  the  pledge  of 
the  first. 

From  1661,  certainly  till  1741,  the  Old  Manse  remained  unoccupied  and  in  a  ruinous  con- 
dition. The  three  ministers  in  the  Cathedral  jiulpit  during  those  eighty  years  had  houses  of 
their  own  in  Kirkwall.  The  first  of  them,  Mr  Wallace,  was  allowed  £24  i^er  annum  in  lieu  of 
*  M*Farlane'8  Accornt  of  Kirkwall,  1726. 


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BACK   OF  TOWN.  383 

a  manse,  and  this  was  continued  to  Mr  Wilson  and  Mr  Baikie.  At  length,  1744,  as  recorded 
in  the  "  Renunciation  to  the  Crown  "  by  the  heritors,  the  Old  Manse  "  was  repaired  out  of  a 
gift  from  the  Earl  of  Morton,  the  Lessee  or  Donatory  of  the  Crown/'  There  was  a  two-fold 
reason  for  this  liberality  on  the  part  of  the  Earl.  He  wished  to  establish  a  claim  to  the 
Palace  and  its  precincts.  The  Manse  he  therefore  assumed  to  be  his.  Its  garden,  now 
occupied  as  the  site  of  the  County  Buildings,  went  with  it,  and  this  brought  him  into  close 
proximity  with  the  Earl's  Palace.  His  further  interest  in  the  Manse  arose  from  the  fact  that 
he  had  begun  to  exercise  the  right  of  patronage  in  the  presentation  of  ministers  all  over 
Orkney.  "  Edward  Irvine,  A.M.,  translated  from  2nd  Charge,  presented  by  the  Magistrates 
and  Town  Council,  and  by  James,  Earl  of  Morton." 

In  1747,  Mr  Irvine  was  translated  to  Walls  and  Flotta,  and  he  was  succeeded  in  the 
Manse  by  the  Rev.  John  Yule.  Mr  Yule,  an  Aberdeen  University  man,  became  schoolmaster 
of  Rhynie,  was  licensed  by  the  presbytery  of  Strathbogie,  and  came  to  Kirkwall  from  Portsoy, 
where  he  had  been  acting  as  missionary.*  He  was  visited  by  Principal  Gordon,  of  the  Scots 
College  in  Paris,  who  remarks  : — "  With  regard  to  the  cathedral  of  Kirkwall,  it  must  be  owned 
to  the  honour  of  the  Rev.  Mr  Yule,  present  minister  of  Kirkwall,  that  no  one  minister,  nor  all 
the  ministers  together,  of  that  place,  have  done  so  much  as  he  has  done  for  keeping  this 
venerable  building  in  repair.  It  is  alleged,  with  what  justice  I  cannot  say,  that  the  Scottish 
clergy  in  general  are  at  more  pains  to  keep  their  manses  than  their  churches  in  repair  ;  but  I 
can  say  with  the  greatest  justice  that  Mr  Yule  is  an  exception,  for  his  manse  is  one  of  the 
meanest  l)uildings  I  have  seen  of  its  kind."  Mr  Yule  married  Christina,  daughter  of  the  Rev. 
Thomas  Baikie,  his  penultimate  predecessor  in  St.  Magnus.  On  the  death  of  this  lady  he 
married,  2nd  Nov.  1756,  Barbara,  daughter  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Traill  of  Hobbister,  minister 
of  Ladykirk.  Their  son,  Robert,  was  appointed  assistant  and  successor  to  his  father,  1789. 
He  married  Anne,  daughter  of  Rev.  Thomas  Traill  of  Tirlet,  minister  of  the  Second  Charge, 
and  died  1824. 

Tlie  Rev.  William  Logic  of  Lady  Parish,  Sanday,  afterwards  Dr  Logic,  was  then  i>resented 
to  the  First  Charge  in  the  Cathedral.  He  had  not  been  long  in  the  Manse  when  by  some 
accident  the  old  place  caught  fire,  and  the  minister,  with  his  wife  and  young  family,  sought 
refuge  in  a  house  in  Bridge  Street  belonging  to  himself.  Dr  I^gie  was  the  last  tenant  of  the 
Old  Manse  as  manse.  His  character,  by  one  capable  of  estimating  it  aright,  has  been  given 
as :—"  Fervently,  but  unostentatiously  pious,  he  had  a  clear  and  comprehensive  intellect, 
soundness  of  judgment,  incorruptible  integrity,  good  temper,  a  large  amount  of  benevolence, 
and  the  deportment  of  a  Christian.  His  comi)ositions  showed  a  classical  purity  of  taste, 
ripeness  of  scholar sliij),  and  an  affectionate  warmth  of  address  and  elocjuence,  which,  joined 
to  singleness  of  purpose,  a  devotedness  of  aim,  and  unwearied  labours  of  love,  gained  for  him 
the  title  of  a  *  model  of  a  jmrish  minister,'  enabling  him  in  a  remarkable  degree  to  exemplify 
the  precept,  *  Be  ye  \^ise  as  seri)ents  and  harmless  as  doves.^"  He  married,  March  1814, 
Elizabeth,  second  daughter  of  James  Scarth,  merchant,  and  had  a  numerous  family. 

After  the  fire  the  question  of  re])airs  again  arose,  complicated  by  a  claim  advanced  on 
behalf  of  Lord  Dundas.      As  before,  the  Crown  claimed  the  house  as  part  of  the  Bishopric  : — 

"  Exchequer  Chambers,  Edinburgh,  19th  September  1828. 
"  Sir, — I  received  your  letter  of  the  12th  in  consequence  of  mine  to  you  of  the  oth  instant, 
desiring  you  to  demand  from  the  Rev.  Mr  Logic  possession  of  the  House  formerly  occupied  by  him  in 
the  Precincts  of  the  Earl's  Palace  in  Brandyquoy,  and  stating  that  he  refused  to  deliver  you  the  Key, 
but  had  given  it  to  Mr  Laing,  the  Provost  of  Kirkwall,  and  one  of  the  Heritors  of  the  Parish.  It 
does  not  appear  to  me  that  you  can  do  anything  relating  to  the  matter  until  such  time  as  you  may 
hear  from  Mr  Laing ;  but  in  the  event  of  the  Magistrates  of  the  Burgh  or  the  Heritors  of  the  Parish 

•  Fasti. 


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384  KIRKWALL  IN   TUB  ORKNEYS. 

doing  anything  in  or  about  the  House  or  grounds,  you  will  do  right  in  having  the  interdict  applied 
for  as  you  mention. 

**From  the  statement  you  give  of  the  way  and  manner  in  which  Mr  Fotheringhani  obtained 
possession  of  the  ground  on  which  he  has  built  Houses,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  oelongs  to  the 
Urown  and  that  Mr  Fotheringham  and  his  Tenants  should  be  removed  therefrom.  Directions  will  be 
given  you  with  respect  to  these  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  ensuing  Term.* 

'*  You  likewise  state  that  Mr  Fotheringham  occupies  the  under  part  of  the  old  Tower  of  the 
Bishop's  Palace  as  a  Byre  and  Coal-house,  and  I  presume  without  any  risht  or  authority  from  any 
person  whatever  for  so  doing,  and  if  so  it  will  be  proper  for  vou  to  call  on  Mr  Fotheringham  to 
remove  everything  whatever  he  may  have  in  the  Tower  within  the  space  of  a  month  from  the  date  of 
the  notice,  and  in  case  of  his  failure,  that  you  direct  application  to  be  made  to  the  Sheriff  for  a 
Warrant  empowering  you  to  remove  the  articles,  whatever  they  may  be,  at  his  expense,  and  that  yon 
do  take  possession  of  the  premises  on  behalf  of  the  Kin^;,  and  afterwardis  secure  tne  doors  thereof. — I 
am.  Sir,  your  most  obedient  Servant,  (Siffned)        A.  D.  Longmore,  for  the  K.R. 

"Chas.  Shirreff,  Esqre.,  Sheriff-Substitute,  Kirkwall." 

The  above  letter  shows  that  there  were  no  fewer  than  four  parties  who  claimed  rights  in 
the  Manse — the  Crown,  the  Town  Council,  and  the  Heritors.  Besides  these  Lord  Dundas,  as 
succeeding  the  Earls  of  Morton,  claimed  both  the  Palace  and  the  Manse.  With  regard  to  the 
Palace  Mr  Hutton,  Lord  Dundas'  factor,  writes  to  Mr  Graham,  Crown  Chamberlain  : — 

*'  Grainbank,  18th  June  1831. 

**  Dear  Sir, — I  communicated  your  letter  of  20th  April  as  to  your  proposed  operations  on  the 
EarPs  Palace  to  Lord  Dundas's  Commissioner,  and  I  have  now  to  state  to  you  in  answer  to  that  letter, 
that,  as  I  consider  the  Earl's  Palace  to  be  the  undoubted  property  of  Lord  Dundas  as  part  of  the 
Earldom  of  Orkney,  any  operation  on  that  building  or  any  sum  laid  out  by  you  upon  it  on  the  part  of 
the  Officers  of  State  or  the  Barons  of  Exchequer,  shall  not  be  held  as  in  any  way  whatever  affecting  his 
Lordship's  right. — I  remain.  Dear  Sir,  Your  most  obedt.  Servt ,  (Signed)        Thos.  Hutton. 

*•  Thomas  Graham,  Esq.,  Crown  Chamberlain,  Crantit." 

Mr  Hutton  forgot  that  the  Palace,  built  by  the  Earl  upon  bishopric  land,  had  been 
handed  over  to  the  Bishop  by  Earl  Patrick  while  as  yet  it  was  a  new  house,  and  that  in  the 
excambion  effected  between  Bishop  Law  and  the  King,  it  was  specially  reserved  as  the  official 
residence  of  that  prelate  and  his  successors. 

As  to  the  Manse,  the  various  parties  who  alleged  proprietorship  all  felt  doubtful  of  the 
validity  of  their  claims,  but  it  was  tacitly  considered  that  the  Crown  had  the  best  right  to  it. 

**  At  a  meeting  of  Heritors  and  Doers  for  Heritors  of  the  Parish  of  St  Ola,  held  at  Kirkwall  the 
4th  day  of  March  1830.  Present — James  Baikie,  Esqre.  of  Tankerness  ;  Gilbert  Traill,  Esqre.  of 
Hatston  ;  Thomas  PoUexfen,  Elsqre.  of  Cairston  ;  Thomas  Graham,  Esqre.,  Chamberlain  for  the 
Crown;  Thomas  Hutton,  Factor  for  Lord  Dundas;  Mr  Robert  Berwick,  Merchant,  Kirkwall.  Mr 
Baikie  was  called  to  the  Chair.  Mr  Graham  stated  that  he  was  authorised  by  the  Right  Honourable 
the  Barons  of  His  Majesty's  Exchequer  to  repair  the  House  in  the  Palace-yard  at  the  expense  of  the 
Crown — then  let  it  to  the  best  advantage — and  pay  the  free  rent  received  to  account  of  the  sum  pay- 
able yearly  by  the  Heritors  to  Mr  Logie,  in  lieu  of  a  manse  during  his  incumbency,  it  being  expressly 
understood  that  there  is  no  doubt  or  question  as  to  the  property  of  the  House  being  fully  in  the 
Crown,  and  that  upon  the  death  or  translation  of  Mr  Logie  the  payment  of  the  rent  should  cease. 
That  before  Mr  Graham  could  proceed  to  take  any  step  to  accomplish  such  repair  upon  the  House,  it 
was  necessary  that  some  document  should  be  subscribed  by  the  Heritors  and  all  concerned  acceding  to 
this  arrangement,  and  to  be  so  expressed  as  to  put  an  end  to  any  doubt  as  to  the  Crown's  rights. 

**  The  Meeting,  having  considered  the  above  statement,  are  of  opinion  (with  the  exception  of  Mr 
Hutton,  who  stated  that  ho  would  communicate  m  ith  his  constituent)  that  the  proposal  msule  by  the 
Right  Honble.  the  Barons  of  Exchequer  should  be  acceded  to  by  the  Heritors. 

"  The  Meeting  having  also  taken  into  consideration  tlie  circumstance  of  various  properties  in  the 
parish  being  without  any  valuation  appearing  in  the  Cess  Books,  but  which  are  liable  in  payment  of 
Stipend,  are  of  opinion  that,  to  put  the  m  hole  Heritors  upon  an  equal  footing,  the  rent  to  be  paid  Mr 
Logie  should  be  assessed  on  the  Heritors  according  to  their  real  rents  as  ascertained  by  the  Decree  of 
Valuation  of  the  teinds  of  the  Parish,  dated  5th  June  and  20th  Nov.  1816." 

♦  The  houses  here  referred  to  are  the  tenements  at  the  back  of  the  County  Buildings. 


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BACK  OF  TOWN.  385 

This  arrangement  was  afterwards  departed  from,  and  it  was  proposed  that  a  sum  of  £30 
per  annum  should  be  allowed  Mr  Logie  as  rent  of  a  house  in  lieu  of  a  manse.  This  sum  the 
Heritors  agreed  to  pay  in  the  following  proportions  :— John  Balfour  of  Trenaby,  £2  Is  l{d  ; 
James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  £6  as  6id ;  Alex.  Sutherland  Gneme  of  GraBmeshall,  £5  Is  lOd  ; 
Thos.  PoUexfen,  Esq.  of  Cairston,  £2  15s  Ijd  ;  Wm.  Traill,  Esq.  of  Frotoft,  £2  Os  8d  ;  Rev. 
John  Omond  of  Carness,  18s  Sjd  ;  Saml.  Laing,  Esq.  of  Pabdale,  £3  Os  3id  ;  Trustees  of  late 
James  Stewart,  Mercht,  £2 19s  7jd  ;  the  Right  Honble.  Lord  Dundas,  £l  7s  8d  ;  the  Barons  of 
Exchequer  for  Crown  lands,  £1  10s  Sjd  ;  Robert  Nicolson,  Esq.,  for  himself  and  his  diaponees. 
Is  9jd.  On  the  other  hand  Mr  Logie  agreed  "  to  cede  and  give  up  to  the  Heritors  all  right 
and  title  he  has  to  the  possession  and  occupancy  of  the  Old  Manse,  Garden,  and  pertinents, 
together  with  that  part  of  the  garden  called  the  Butts  and  Office  Houses  thereon,  during  the 
whole  time  of  the  said  William  Logic's  incumbency  and  serving  the  cure.'**  But  here  a  new 
power  interposed.  The  presbytery  found  that,  "though  Presbyteries  can  sanction  excambions  in 
which  the  Cure  acquires  a  quid  pro  quo,  they  have  no  power  to  renounce  gratuitously  any  of 
the  temporalities."  The  controversy  had  now  been  raging  some  eight  years,  ever  since  the 
conflagration  in  1824.  The  question  arose  over  the  estimate  for  repairs,  which  was  put  in  at 
£679  15s  5d.  This  estimate  contemplated  an  enlargement  of  the  house  and  consequently  the 
appropriation  of  additional  ground,  and  now,  despite  the  claims  of  earl,  presbytery,  and 
heritors,  Mr  Graham,  Crown  Chamberlain,  carried  out  the  confiscation  of  that  Old  Manse  in 
a  very  simple  manner.  Mr  Logie  wanted  a  larger  house  built  on  the  old  site,  and  Mr  Graham 
would  not  allow  an  additional  foot  of  ground. 

In  a  letter  to  the  agent  for  the  Heritors,  the  minister  makes  the  case  very  clear  :— "  As 
no  Manse  can  be  erected  on  the  present  site  without  additional  ground,  which  the  Crown  is 
not  now  disposed  to  grant,  and  as,  therefore,  the  Manse  must  be  built  in  the  Glebe,  it  would 
of  course  be  incompetent  for  any  minister  to  claim  two  Houses.  By  accepting,  as  he  must  do, 
a  Manse  in  the  Glebe,  the  Minister  will  ipso  facto  lose  his  right  to  the  present  site,  which  was 
designated  only  for  a  Manse,  and  cannot  be  applied  by  him  to  any  other  use.'' 

Instead,  however,  of  insisting  upon  having  a  manse  built  for  him  in  the  Glebe,  Mr  Logie 
accepted  the  above  annual  allowance,  and  this  arrangement  lasted  from  1832  till  1886,  when 
the  present  incumbent,  the  Rev.  John  Rutherford,  for  himself  and  his  successors,  insisted  on 
having  a  manse  in  the  Glebe.  A  contemporary  writer  very  well  expresses  public  opinion  on 
the  subject  :— 

"  It  ia  a  matter  of  no  importance  in  general  to  any  person  but  a  clergyman  where  his  manse  is 
built,  and  in  the  present  instance  the  right  of  the  parties  must  of  coarse  be  settled  in  the  ordinary 
way  by  the  proper  authorities.  But,  as  a  matter  of  taste,  it  is  not  even  open  te  dispute  that  the 
position  of  a  minister's  manse  in  the  midst  of  ruined  palaces  is  not  expedient.  A  minister  needs 
cows  and  horses  and  cocks  and  hens,  and  he  needs  also  nouses  te  keep  them  in.  Now,  we  remember 
to  have  seen,  in  the  course  of  our  wanderings,  cow-houses  and  dunghills,  and  hen-houses  and  coal* 
houses,  and  all  the  et  cetercut  of  that  description,  within  the  walls  of  the  old  Kpiscopal  Palace  at 
Kirkwall,  and  if  another  new  hoase  shall  be  built  for  the  minister  in  the  same  place,  the  same  sort  of 
ornamental  offices  must  in  a  greater  or  less  degree  be  annexed  to  the  mansion.  It  would  be  officious 
in  US  to  express  our  best  wishes  for  the  applicant  in  this  case  and  that  he  may  get  every  accommoda- 
tion and  comfort  to  which  by  law  he  is  entitled  ;  but,  as  members  of  the  community,  we  have  as  good 
a  right  to  criticise  the  situation  of  his  house  as  the  qualities  of  his  sermon.  Ana  we  must  humbly 
opine  that  it  would  be  indefsent  to  continue  the  minister's  house,  with  the  necessary  nuisances,  in  the 
ntuatioii  proposed.  There  are  about  50  acres  of  land  quite  convenient  and  legally  designed  for  a 
elebe  and  manses  and  we  have  been  assured  by  a  wigged  lawyer  in  the  Parliament  house  that  if  there 
be  one  sufficient  designation  for  these  purposes  there  is  no  room  for  a  second.  We  have  no  inclination 
to  interfere  with  matters  in  which  we  have  no  concern  and  none  to  animadvert  on  causes  depending 

*  This  is  from  the  pencilled  draft  of  the  Bond  of  Security  between  James  Baikie,  Esq.,  for  himself 
and  the  other  Heritors,  and  the  Rev.  William  Logie.  The  Bond  was  prepared  by  John  Mitehell, 
Writer,  Kirkwall.     Favoured  by  the  late  Jas.  Bamett,  Esq. ,  Crown  Chamberlain. 

3D 


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386  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

in  courts  of  law,  but  merely  enter  a  caveat  against  the  perpetuation  of  a  nuisance  which  we  have  seen 
drive  off  strangers  when  they  entered  these  old  ruins,  with  uplifted  hands  and  an  exclamation,  *  Oh  ! 
John  Knox,  John  Knox  !!'  "  ♦ 

The  Crown,  having  secured  this  the  last  scrap  of  the  Bishopric,  repaired  the  old  house 
and  let  it.  There  was  some  competition  for  the  tenancy,  but  it  was  given  to  Mrs  Yule  and 
Mrs  Traill  for  joint  occupation.  It  was  but  natural  that  Mr  Graham  should  give  the  pre- 
ference to  Mrs  Yule,  who  had  during  her  husband's  lifetime  presided  over  the  hospitalities  of 
the  Old  Manse  for  thirty-five  years. 

*<  Kirkwall,  8th  May  1832. 

"  Sir, — In  reply  to  your  letter  of  yesterday's  date,  we  beg  leave  to  enquire  whether  we  are  to  be 
allowed  the  use  of  the  coal-house  adioining  the  Manae,  and  which  was  possessed  by  the  late  Mr  Yule, 
as  you  do  not  mention  it  particularly  in  your  letter.  We  certainly  cannot  object  to  relieve  you  of 
the  expence  incurred  by  you  of  putting  in  the  vegetables,  but  if  anything  remains  to  be  done  to  the 
north  half  of  the  piece  of  ground  lying  between  the  Byre  and  the  House,  we  would  prefer  doing  it 
ourselves. 

'*  The  arrangement  you  have  made  with  regard  to  Mr  PoUexfen  beinff  the  judge  of  the  house 
beinff  in  a  proper  tenantable  condition  is  perfectly  satisfactory  to  us,  and  although  it  is  necessary  that 
we  should  have  permission  to  lock  up  some  articles  in  the  garret  by  25th  current,  yet  the  workmen 
ma^  have  access  to  the  rest  of  the  house  until  the  work  is  completed,  which  we  trust  will  be  as  expe- 
ditiouslv  as  is  consistent  with  your  convenience. 

"  We  beff  leave  to  return  you  our  best  thanks  for  the  preference  you  have  given  us  and  for  the 
personal  trouble  you  have  taken,  and  we  pledge  ourselves  that  the  rent  of  £17  per  annum  shall  be 
duly  paid  at  any  term  or  terms  most  agreeable. — We  are,  Sir,  your  Obedt.  Servants, 

(Signed)        Anns  Yulb, 

Frances  Traill. 

**  Thomas  Graham,  Esq." 

Mrs  Yule's  signature  at  the  age  of  seventy-three  shows  the  natural  shake  of  a  hand 
unaccustomed  to  the  pen,  but  that  of  Mrs  Traill,  who  wrote  the  letter,  is  quite  a  model  of 
caligraphy,  while  the  diction  and  business  point  of  the  epistle  exhibit  the  clear-headed 
woman.  Shft  was  the  daughter  of  Robert  Baikie  of  Tankerness  and  the  wife  of  Gilbert  Traill, 
of  the  Frotoft  family,  Lieutenant,  R.N.  Mrs  Traill  was  left  a  widow  in  1849,  and  for  years 
afterwards  she  was  pleasantly  known  as  "  Aunt  Fanny  "  to  a  circle  which  included  many  who 
were  not  her  nephews  and  nieces. 

In  1857,  when  the  Crown  sold  the  Butts  and  other  portions  of  the  Bishopric  proi)erty,  the 
Old  Manse  was  bought  by  Captain  Baikie.  Early  in  1862  the  Captain  came  to  the  late  Mr 
Charles  Slater,  then  tenant,  and  told  him  that  he  meant  to  sell  the  Manse.  He  also  assured 
him  that  if  he  would  become  purchaser  he  should  have  it  for  less  money  than  any  one  else 
would.  In  going  through  the  house  with  a  view  to  arranging  a  bargain,  they  came  to  a  dark 
closet  under  a  stair,  whereupon  the  old  seaman  remarked,  "  A  capital  cellar  for  ale."  Getting 
no  reply,  he  repeated,  "  An  excellent  ale  cellar,"  adding,  "  But  perhaps  you  are  a  teetotaller." 
**  Yes,  for  many  years,"  was  the  answer.  Then,  following  the  grunt  of  impatience,  which  defies 
orthography,  came  the  easily  spellable  words,  "  Damned  fool."  This  unasked  opinion  did  not 
affect  the  business  on  hand,  and  till  his  death,  January  1897,  the  Old  Manse  was  owned  and 
occupied  by  Mr  Slater,  who  never  regretted  either  his  bargain  or  his  teetotalism. 

The  immense  thickness  of  tlie  walls  has  enabled  the  old  house  to  weather  the  blasts  of 
centuries,  but  time  has  stripped  it  of  some  of  its  adornments.  Mr  Heind's  motto  has  disap- 
peared from  above  the  doorway.  The  likelihood  is  that  the  stone  on  which  the  lines  were 
engraved  was  destroyed  by  the  fire  referred  to  above  or  in  the  course  of  the  subsequent 
repairs.    The  Scots  Magazine^  1804,  gives  an  account  of  a  tour  in  Orkney  and  Shetland  by  a 

*  Ork.  and  Zet.  Chron.,  March  1825. 


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BACK  OF   TOWN.  387 

traveller,  who  transcribes  the  lines,  being  evidently  struck  with  their  appropriateness  to  a 
house  which  the  departing  owner  could  in  no  case  bequeath  to  his  heirs. 

Till  the  extension  of  the  municipal  boundary,  the  Manse  and  all  the  houses  beyond  it 
towards  the  Clay  Loan  were  outside  the  precincts  of  the  burgh.  Over  them  the  Magistrates 
could  exercise  no  authority,  and  this  fact  sometimes  led  to  evasions  of  the  law.  We  have  a 
case  in  point  in  the  career  of  a  man,  notorious  or  famous,  according  as  his  character  is  esti- 
mated by  foes  or  by  friends.  George  Eunson  was  arrested  somewhere  about  the  back  of  the 
town  on  the  complaint  of  Robert  Blair,  shoemaker,  and  James  Mowat,  Burgh  Fiscal,  whose 
petition  to  the  Magistrates 

**  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  on  Wednesday  last,  the  thirteenth  current,  about  Eleven  O'clock  at 
night,  when  the  private  complainer  had  shut  his  door  and  was  about  going  to  his  bed,  George  Eunson, 
Residenter  in  Kirkwall,  without  any  just  cause  or  provocation,  brock  up  the  door  of  the  room  where 
the  private  complainer  sleeps,  and  having  in  this  violent  manner  entered  his  house,  he,  the  said 
George  Eunson,  took  him,  the  private  complainer,  by  the  collar,  and  threw  him  to  the  floor,  that  not 
being  satisfied  with  this,  he  even  threatened  to  take  away  the  private  complainer 's  life. 

**  That  as  there  is  not  at  present  any  Sheriff  in  this  Country  (none  beins  appointed  since  the 
death  of  Patrick  Graeme  of  Grsemeshall,  EsqrOi  and  as  the  complainers  are  mformed  that  George 
Eunson  is  soon  to  leave  the  country,  they  are  under  the  necessity  for  applying  to  your  Honours  for 
redress,  as  they  apprehend  that  the  said  George  Eunson  has  been  guilty  of  the  Crime  of  Hamesucken, 
and  is  not  in  safety  to  pleep  in  his  house,  the  door  being  brock  by  the  said  George  Eunson,  who  ha» 
frightened  his  tenner  and  helpless  wife  and  children. 

**  May  it  therefore  please  your  Honours  to  consider  this  petition  and  to  grant  warrant  to  your 
Officers  of  Court  to  search  for  and  apprehend  the  person  of  the  said  George  Eunson  wherever  he  can 
be  found  within  your  Jurisdiction,"  etc.,  etc. 

The  Magistrates — John  Weir,  Thomas  Traill,  John  Traill,  and  Thomas  Jamieson — had 
Blair  up  before  them,  and,  after  his  deposition,  they  issued  a  warrant  for  Eunson's  apprehen- 
sion, "  Wherever  he  can  be  found  within  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall." 

The  town  oflScers  arrested  Eunson  in  the  house  where  the  crime  was  committed,  but,  on  a 
bond  from  him,  and  without  consulting  the  Magistrates,  they  allowed  him  to  remain  at  large. 
The  Magistrates,  considering  that  the  crime  of  hamesucken  was  not  bailable,  now  ordered  the 
officers  to  arrest  Eunson  wherever  they  could  find  him,  as  they  reasonably  enough  regarded 
him  as  their  prisoner  apprehended  within  the  bounds  of  their  jurisdiction.  But  the  prisoner 
took  refuge  in  the  house  of  his  mother,  "Isobel  Johnston,  who  lives  in  the  suburbs  of 
Kirkwall,"  and  when  the  officers  tried  to  seize  him  there,  '*  he  answered,  with  a  naked  sword 
in  his  hand,  By  God  he  would  not  go  for  either  Magistrates  or  officers,  and  the  first  man  who 
offered  to  touch  him  he  would  make  him  a  corp."  He  was  at  length  overpowered  and  carried 
to  prison. 

That  this  took  place  in  a  house  somewhere  between  Quoyangrie  and  Butquoy  seems 
probable  from  the  statement  of  one  of  the  witnesses  that  he  returned  home  "  through  the 
yards."  The  prisoner  made  this  the  ground  of  a  protest :— "  Unto  the  Provost  and  magistrates 
of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  The  Petition  of  George  Eunson,  shipmaster,  Kirkwall,  Humbly 
Sheweth  That  your  Petitioner,  being  charged  with  Hamesucken  by  Robert  Blair,  shoemaker  in 
Kirkwall,  with  concourse  of  the  Procurator-Fiskal,  warrant  was  granted  by  the  magistrates  for 
the  petitioner's  incarceration,  which  the  officers,  and  others  assisting  them,  did  execute  by 
apprehending  your  Petitioner  without  the  limits  and  royalty  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall." 

Eunsoa  afterwards  raised  an  action  against  the  Magistrates  for  wrongous  imprisonments 
and  the  recriminations  of  the  parties  illustrate  Kirkwall  life,  public  and  private,  a  hundred 
years  ago : — 

**  George,  by  the  Grace  of  God,  King,"  etc.,  etc. 

'*  Whereas  it  is  humbly  meant  and  shown  to  us  by  our  lovite  George  Eunson,  late  shipmaster  in 


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388  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Kirkwall,  at  present  Extraordinary  officer  of  the  Customs  in  Orkney,  that  where,  by  the  Laws  of 
God  and  of  this  and  every  other  well-governed  realm,  the  combining  against  any  of  our  Lieges,  more 
particularly  one  of  our  servants  as  an  officer  of  our  Revenues  of  Customs,  and  in  plotting  and  contriv- 
ing against  him  either  to  prevent  or  on  account  of  the  Execution  of  his  said  duty,  in  wrongously 
abusing,  Maltreating,  and  Imprisoning  his  person  and  wrongously  refusing  to  liberate  his  person  from 
prison  \i'here  he  is  incarcerated,  are  crimes  of  a  heinous  nature  and  very  severely  punishaole,  and  are 
greatly  a^ravated  by  being  committed  by  persons  having,  or  at  least  assuming,  authority  as  magis- 
trates ana  councillors  of  one  of  our  Royal  Boroughs,  yet  true  it  is  and  of  venty  that  the  pursuer, 
having  been  some  time  ago  appointed  an  Extraordmary  officer  of  the  Customs  in  Orkney,  he  bad  the 
misfortune,  in  the  legal  execution  of  his  office  to  us  and  his  country,  to  draw  upon  himself  the  ill-will 
of  Several  Contraband  Traders  and  others  in  the  County  of  Orkney,  and  particularly  of  John  Weir, 
Thomas  Traill,  John  Traill,  and  Thomas  Jamison,  present  Baillies  of  the  said  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  and 
James  Erskine,  John  Reid,  Alexander  Stewart,  and  Samuel  Murrav,  Councillors  of  said  Burgh,  and 
John  Murray,  in  the  Island  of  Eday,  father  of  the  said  Samuel  Murray,  who  have  omitt^  no 
opportunity  to  harrass  and  oppress  the  pursuer,  both  under  the  form  of  legal  procedure  and  otherwise, 
which  they  were  enabled  to  do  with  impunity  by  being  Mas^istrates  and  Councillors  of  our  said 
Borough  themselves,  or  aided  and  supported  by  them  and  their  associates  and  friends  leagued  in  the 
same  Compa<!t  with  them  to  defraud  our  revenues  by  carrying  on  an  illicit  Trade  to  a  great  extent," 
etc.,  etc. 

The  indictment  goes  on  to  state  that  when  Eunson  was  on  the  eve  of  starting  for 
Edinburgh  to  prove  the  parties  named  as  being  largely  engaged  in  smuggling,  besides 
**  information  of  recent  frauds,"  they  did  "  spirit  up  "  Robert  Blair  to  act  as  he  did  so  that  they 
might  be  able  to  lay  Eunson  by  the  heels.  It  complains  that  the  pursuer  was  beaten  in  a 
most  inhuman  and  brutal  manner  on  the  head  and  body  with  staves,  poles,  and  other  weapons, 
dragged  through  the  streets  of  the  burgh,  and  thrown  into  a  "dungeon  under  ground, 
wherein  a  notorious  thief  was  also  confined,  and  in  the  hearing  of  the  dismal  yelling  of  a 
person  troubled  in  mind,  who  was  confined  in  the  next  apartment."  In  short,  it  shows  Eunson 
to  have  been  a  martyr  in  the  cause  of  duty,  suffering  from  the  vindictive  malice  of  a  gang  of 
respectable  smugglers  whom  he  had  thwarted  and  exposed.  This  was  mot  by  a  Memorial 
from  the  persons  accused  : — 

"  The  Memorialists  have  been  lately  served  with  a  summons  of  wrongous  imprisonment  and 
damages  at  the  instance  of  one  who  stiles  himself  '  late  Shipmaster  in  Kirkwall,  at  present  Extra- 
ordinary Officer  of  the  Customs  in  Orkney.' 

"  One  copy  of  the  Summons  has  been  sent,  and,  in  order  that  a  proper  Defence  may  be  made  out  to 
it,  it  will  be  necessary  that  the  Memorialists  give  a  short  History  of  the  life  and  transactions  of  the 
pursuer  so  far  as  it  consists  with  their  knowledge.  George  Eunson,  the  pursuer  of  this  Action,  was 
[)orn  of  poor  but  of  honest  parents  in  the  Neighbourhood  of  Kirkwall." 

After  a  very  uncomplimentary  account  of  Eunson's  life  and  conduct  from  his  school  days 
downward,  the  Memorialists  show  how  he  got  his  appointment  as  Extraordinary  Officer  of 
Customs  :— 

"  As  the  circimistances  which  gave  occasion  to  his  being  appointed  extraordinary  Officer  of  the 
Customs  having  been  particularly  stated  in  two  Memorials  sent  to  Edinburgh,  The  memorialists  need 
not  repeat  them.  They  shall  only  mention  that  Mr  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  having  lost  two  Elections, 
the  one  in  the  1780  and  the  other  in  the  1784,  he  and  his  friends  were  determined  to  be  revenged 
against  those  who  voted  against  him.  For  this  purpose  they  came  to  the  resolution  of  informing 
against  some  of  the  Memorialists  as  Notorious  Smu^^lers,  expecting  that  the  result  of  such  informa- 
tion would  ruin  them  and  their  families.  As  they  did  not  chuse  to  be  seen  directly  in  it  themselves, 
they  looked  out  for  a  proper  person  to  act  for  them  under  their  direction.     As  George  Eunson  was 

faing  about  the  country  without  employment  and  like  a  vagabond,  as  he  had  formerly  been  employed 
y  themselves  to  Smuggle  for  them,  and  as  they  knew  he  was  of  such  a  turbulent  disposition  that  he 
would  be  ready  to  enter  into  anything  that  was  mischievous  to  his  Neighbour,  they  looked  upon  him 
as  the  fittest  person.  Accordingly,  they  got  him  to  M'rite  to  the  Treasury  and  Board  of  Customs  in 
Scotland  that  some  of  the  Memorialists  were  great  Smugglers,  in  consequence  of  which  a  Precognition 
was  ordered  to  be  taken,  which  was  accordingly  done,  but  in  an  unfair  and  partial  manner,  notwith- 
standing whereof  they  have  not  to  this  day  (now  two  years)  brought  any  proof  of  any  act  of  Smuggling 
by  either  of  the  Memorialists. 


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BACK  OF  TOWN.  389 

"  Mr  Baikie  and  his  friends,  finding  they  would  faill  in  this  attempt,  thought  of  another 
expedient  in  order  to  harrass  the  memoriaUsts,  and  that  was  to  set  Geor^  Eunson  made  a  Custom 
house  Officer.  They  accordincly  procured  a  Commission  for  him,  out  previous  thereto  they  gave  him 
this  injunction,  both  in  word  and  write,  that  whatever  he  did  that  he  should  take  care  of  their 
friends,  the  plain  meaning  of  which  was  that  whatever  goods  he  should  seize  he  should  take  care  not 
to  touch  any  of  those  belonging  to  Mr  Baikie  or  his  political  connections.  This  injunction  Creorge 
Eunson  scrupulously  adhered  to,  for  in  several  searches  that  he  made  in  the  Town  of  Kirkwall,  and 
particularly  that  through  the  shops,  of  which  particular  notice  was  taken  in  a  former  memorial  to 
Edinr.,  he  took  care  not  to  trouble  or  molest  any  of  Mr  Baikie's  connixtions,  altho  he  endeavoured  to 
harrass  and  distress  those  who  were  opposite  in  principle  to  them.  Then,  in  a  late  examination 
respecting  his  conduct  as  an  officer,  it  has  been  proved,  even  by  one  of  Mr  Baikie's  own  friends,  that 
he  said  to  him  that  if  he  happened  to  see  anythmg  of  his  he  would  endeavour  to  eo  out  of  the  way. 
His  partiallity  and  the  extraordinary  manner  in  which  he  acted  towards  some  of  the  Memorialists 
being  represented  to  the  Commissioners  of  the  Customs,  they  thought  it  necessary  first  to  Suspend 
him  and  afterwards  to  take  away  his  Commission  froi^  him." 

The  references  to  smuggling  in  this  defence  would  go  to  show  that  in  Orkney  at  that  time 
everybody  who  was  anybody  was  a  contraband  trader.  The  lairds  and  merchants  furnished 
the  ships,  employed  the  labour  for  working  the  business,  and  reaped  the  larger  share  of  the 
profits.  Sailors  engaged  in  it,  and  especially  those  in  command,  found  this  traffic  more 
exciting,  and  at  the  same  time  more  remunerative,  than  legitimate  cargo  carrying.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  bulk  of  business  people  in  Scotland  and  in  England  had  for  a  considerable 
time  felt  that  smuggling  was  an  intolerable  nuisance,  and  a  fertile  source  of  damage  to  honest 
enterprise. 

The  following  agreement,  had  it  been  adhered  to,  would  have  gone  far  to  put  down 
smuggling  in  these  islands  :— 

**  The  Justices  of  Peace,  Heritors,  and  Gentlemen  of  Orkney,*  taking  into  consideration  the  evils 
ariseing  to  this  Country  from  the  importation  and  consumption  of  Tobacco  manfactd.  abroad,  and 
foreign  Brandy  and  other  spirits,  without  payment  of  duty,  and  that  while  this  practice  continues,  the 
Grain  of  this  Country  sells  at  a  low  price  and  the  Tenants  disabled  in  payment  of  their  rent. 
Unanimously  resolve  to  use  all  endeavours  to  discourage  the  Importation  and  consumption  of  the 
same,  and  that  after  the  10th  April  1733  we  shall  not  drink  any  of  the  said  spirits  in  any  public 
house,  and  shall  endeavour  to  detect  and  discover  the  Importer  or  Retailer  of  such  spirits,  and  give 
concurrence  to  H.M.  Officers  of  Customs  and  Excise  to  seize  the  same;  and  also  recommend  to  all 
Heritors  in  letting  their  houses  to  take  the  tenants  bound  not  to  sell  any  of  the  foresaid  Tobacco  or 
Spirits  under  penalty  of  forfeiting  their  Tacks,  and  ordain  these  Resolutions  to  be  advertised  at  each 
Parish  Kirk.  (Signed)  John  Hav,  James  Stewart,  Patrick  Grahame,  James  Baikie,  James  Fea, 
James  Traill,  John  Covingtrie,  Charles  Grahame,  Thomas  Baikie,  Henry  Moncrieff,  Harry  Graeme, 
Robert  Honyman,  William  Honyman." 

Again,  in  1744  there  was  a  general  movement  throughout  Scotland  to  have  illicit  traffic 
stamped  out,  and  the  freeholders  of  Orkney,  to  avert  suspicion  from  themselves,  were  obliged 
to  meet  and  "  Resolve  to  do  their  endeavour  to  put  down  the  practice  of  smuggling,  and 
solemnly  engage  to  discourage  the  consumpt  so  far  as  their  influence,  example,  and  authority 
can  reach."    The  merchants,  however,  would  pay  no  duties  which  they  could  evade. 

In  his  little  book,  published  1788,  on  "The  Ancient  and  Present  State  of  Orkney, 
particularly  the  Capital  Borough  of  Kirkwall,"  Eunson  says :— "  The  Counsellors,  together 
with  other  pretenders,  still  continue  to  import  and  smuggle  here  all  kinds  of  spirituous 
liquors  from  Holland,  which  they  send  to  and  fro  through  the  country,  to  be  sold  for  them  at 
public-houses  at  such  a  rate  as  they  can  clear  cent,  per  cent.  And  there  are  so  many  public 
houses,  that  it  is  as  free  to  them  as  watqr,  the  price  being  no  more  than  three  halfpence  each 
gill.  Although  there  are  revenue  officers  stationed  in  order  to  detect  frauds  against  the 
government  (and  indeed  there  is  very  great  need  of  strict  ones),  yet  they  are  regardless  of  the 

•  I2th  Jan.  1733. 


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390  KIRKWALL   IN  THE   ORKNEYS. 

duties  required  of  them,  being  absolutely  friends  of  the  smugglers,  and  having  sometimes  a 
share  of  the  profit/'  Eunson  goes  on  to  show  that  there  had  been  one  upright  and  zealous 
officer— himself— who,  on  account  of  his  zeal  and  integrity,  had  received  very  cruel  treatment 
at  the  hands  of  the  Kirkwall  Magistrates.  As  a  seaman,  Eunson  was  in  ability  and  enterprise 
far  above  the  ordinary  run  of  last  century  skippers  in  Kirkwall.  This  is  sufficiently  proved 
by  the  chart  of  the  islands  which  he  published. 

In  1743,  Mr  Murdoch  Mackenzie,  grandson  of  the  Bishop,  issued  his  "Proi)osals  for 
Surveying  and  Navigating  by  Subscription  the  Orkney  Islands."  Mackenzie  states  that 
"  from  the  Thames  and  other  parts  of  Britain  a  great  number  of  ships,  especially  in  time  of 
war,  sail  through  these  islands,  yet  a  draught  of  them,  with  any  tolerable  accuracy,  has  never 
yet  appeared.  The  only  original  maps  of  the  Orkneys,  as  far  as  can  be  guessed,  are  one  by 
Nicolay  d'Arfeville,  chief  Cosmographer  to  the  King  of  France,  that  in  Blaeu's  Atlas,  and  one 
by  Mr  John  Adair,  Geographer  for  Scotland."  He  tells  us  that  the  first  of  these  "  was  done 
from  the  Journals  and  Observations  of  Alexander  Lindsay,  who  was  pilot  to  James  V.  in  his 
navigation  round  Scotland."  In  it,  besides  errors  in  "  the  Bearings,  Figures,  Magnitudes,  and 
Distances  of  the  Islands  from  one  another,  the  Latitude  is  two  degrees  wrong,  and  ten  or 
twelve  of  the  Holms  (or  lesser  isles)  and  all  the  rocks  are  omitted.  Another  map  of  the 
Orkneys  is  prefixed  to  Wallace's  description  of  these  islands,  printed  at  London,  Anno  1700. 
This  seems  to  have  been  copied  from  Adair's  map,  tho'  not  very  carefully,  having  all  the 
faults  that  were  in  his  and  some  more  from  the  negligence  of  the  copier."  These  were  some 
of  the  reasons  which  induced  Mackenzie  to  survey  and  publish.  One  feature  of  Mackenzie's 
proposed  chart  was  to  be  that  "  All  the  Churches,  Buildings,  Gentlemen's  Seats,  Villages,  and 
most  remarkable  Hills  necessary  for  directing  vessels  how  to  keep  clear  of  Rocks,  to  enter 
into  Harbours,  or  to  the  best  Anchor  ground,  will  be  marked  in  their  proper  places." 

With  an  admittedly  accurate  chart  before  him,  Eunson  had  to  show  good  reasons  for 
publishing  another.  He  says : — "  Several  years  ago  a  survey  was  made  by  Mr  Murdoch 
McKenzie  of  the  islands  of  Orkney,  and  his  particular  scale  was  accurate  ;  but  as  the  islands 
were  divided  upon  different  sheets,  the  navigation  was  made  intricate  and  difficult  for  the 
mariner."  Eunson's  chart  then  was  to  be  upon  one  sheet,  its  price  one-third  of  that  of  the 
other,  and  as  some  of  the  buildings  taken  by  Mackenzie  as  landmarks  had  been  demolished, 
he  should  "  make  headlands  and  other  immoveable  bodies  a  seaman's  directory." 

By  this  time  the  first  North  Bonaldshay  lighthouse  had  been  erected,  and  Eunson  was 
engaged  by  the  Northern  Lights  Commissioners  to  act  as  pilot  when  their  vessel  came  to 
Orkney.  This  in  itself  was  a  testimonial  to  his  efficiency,  and  it  wa.s,  if  not  at  the  instigation, 
at  least  on  the  encouragement  of  this  Board  that  this  work  was  undertaken.  Admitting 
Mackenzie's  scale  to  be  accurate,  Eunson  made  use  of  his  outlines,  and  applying  his  own 
practical  knowledge  to  the  work,  he  produced  a  chart  which  was  adopted  by  the  Admiralty, 
issued  by  their  publishers,  Norrie  <k  Company,  and  which  was  only  superseded  about  fifty 
years  ago  by  that  of  Captain  Thomas.  The  chart  is  a  beautiful  piece  of  work,  good  holding 
ground  is  marked  by  engraved  anchors,  and  sets  of  tide  by  arrows.  The  sailing  directions,  too, 
are  full  and  clear.  It  was  dedicated  to  John,  Duke  of  Argyle,  and  the  other  members  of  the 
British  Society  for  Extending  the  Fisheries  and  Improving  the  Sea  Coasts  of  Scotland.  The 
family  tradition  regarding  Eunson's  death  is  that  he  went  down  in  Sumburgh  Roost  with 
H.M.  cutter  Curlew. 

At  a  time  when  smuggling  was  so  openly  practised  and  so  difficult  to  suppress,  it  is 
remarkable  to  notice  how  careless  the  Government  was  in  the  matter  of  inland  revenue.  In 
1788  it  was  the  duty  of  Mr  James  Riddoch  to  issue  licenses  for  the  sale  of  liquors,  and 
doubtless  he  would  have  granted  them  to  any  who  might  apply  ;  but  he  did  not  regard  it  as 


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BACK  OF  TOWN.  391 

any  part  of  his  duty  to  prosecute  those  who  sold  without  licence.  He  had  in  his  office,  how- 
ever, a  clerk,  James  Sinclair,  who,  having  access  to  Mr  Riddocb's  correspondence,  made  a 
treacherous  use  of  it.  Having  some  acquaintance  with  Mr  George  Innes,  in  the  Stamp  Office 
in  Edinburgh,  Sinclair  wrote  to  him  :— 

'*  Sir, — Yoar  letter  to  Mr  Riddoch,  of  the  4th  of  March  last,  respecting  the  Informacion  you  had 
received  agst.  Agents  and  Solicitors  who  practise  before  our  Sherifif  Courts  without  licences,  I  duly 
answered  on  the  27th  of  that  month. 

*'  Before  I  came  to  this  Country  I  was  perfectly  well  acquainted  wt.  you  and  many  of  your 
friends,  and  as  your  line  of  Office  must  urge  you  to  support  his  Majesty's  Revenue,  I  am  not  ashamed 
to  be  the  Informer  a«8t.  Hundreds  in  the  County  of  Orkney  who  are  most  Notorious  Smuicglers  and 
Retailers  of  all  kin(k  of  Foreign  Spirits ;  and  what  is  more  extraordinary,  9iot  one  of  them  has  a 
licence. 

'*  This  dangerous  and  illicit  practice  calls  loud  for  redress  ;  and  as  your  duty  leads  you  to  brine 
the  Ofifenders  to  Justice,  so  you  are  bound  to  lay  this  Letter  before  the  proper  officers  of  the  Law  ana 
return  me  a  satisfactory  answer  whether  ^ou  are  to  proceed  aest.  the  delmquents  or  not.  Many  of 
them  are  sufficiently  M^  to  pay  the  Penaltits,  But  you  must  advert  that  there  is  no  Justice  of  Peace 
in  Orkney  who  will  act  agst.  them,  Because  they  are  Smugglers  and  Retailers  themselves ;  otherwise  I 
will  take  the  first  opportunity  of  publishing  this  Information  in  all  the  Newspapers  of  Great  Britain. 
— I  am.  Sir,  Your  most  obedient  Servant,      (Signed)      Jambs  Sinclair,  Sheriff  Clerk  of  Orkney. 

"  Kirkwall,  12th  April  1788." 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  nature  of  the  reply  to  this  letter,  it  is  obvious  that  it 
contained  a  rebuff,  for  Mr  Sinclair  writes  again  : — 

**  Sir, — I  received  your  letter  of  the  28th  ulto.  in  answer  to  mine  of  the  12th.  In  return  thereto, 
please  be  assured  that  Mr  Jas.  Riddoch,  being  a  native  of  the  country,  must  be  as  sensible  as  I  am  of 
every  Retailer  of  foreign  Spirits  in  Orkney  without  a  Licence.  I  wonder  then  when  you  say  he  has  a 
Commission  to  prosecute  delinquents,  why  he  does  not  put  it  in  force  T  I  offer  to  do  the  Business  if 
you  will  employ  me,  provided  I  ara  allowed  a  proportion  of  the  penalties,  and  the  whole  luoneys 
recovered  should  be  paid  in  to  Mr  Riddoch. 

**  I  can  prove  that  one  and  all  of  the  Custom  house  and  Excise  officers  here  frequent  many  retail 
houses  where  all  kinds  of  foreign  Spirits  are  Sold  and  drunk  without  licence  or  paying  his  Majestie's 
Duties.  I  compute  about  Three  Hundred  of  this  Class  on  the  Mainland  and  Islands.  What  a  loss  is 
this  to  the  Revenue  ?  Gin  and  Brandy  sell  in  Shops  and  Houses  at  threepence  halfpenny  the  half 
mutchkin,  or  two  Gills. 

•*  You  see,  then,  that  it  would  be  improper  for  me  at  present  to  give  up  the  names  of  the 
Delinquents  to  Mr  Riddoch,  yet,  if  I  am  authorised  by  you  to  prosecute  them,  I  will  undoubted  do  it. 

**  You  might  have  spared  a  reflection  in  the  end  of  your  Letter.  But  if  you  choose  to  enquire  of 
my  Countrymen — The  Honble.  Baron  Gordon,  The  Honble.  Arthur  Duff,  LuSovick  Grant,  Esq.,  and 
your  friend,  Gilbert  Innes  of  Stow,  Esq.  (my  old  comrade) — They  will  tell  you  whether  I  am  a 
gentleman  by  Birth  and  Education  or  not.  I  could  even  name  nobility  of  the  First  Rank  who  would 
recommend  me  to  your  notice  in  preference  to  others,  if  I  saw  occasion  for  it.  There  is  therefore  no 
necessity  for  publishing  our  correspondence.  The  issue  of  it  may  possibly  be  soon  at  an  end.  But  I 
make  it  a  point  that  Mr  Riddoch  shall  not  know  of  it  till  I  hear  from  you  again,  when  you  will  inform 
me  whether  I  am  to  be  employed  or  not.  This  I  expect  you  will  do  in  courae  of  post. — I  am.  Sir, 
Your  most  Obedient  Servant,  (Signed)        James  Sinclair. 

"  Kirkwall,  17th  May  1788." 

Mr  Innes,  as  might  have  been  expected,  sent  copies  of  these  communications  to  Mr 
Riddoch,  with  the  following  letter  : — 

*»  Stamp  Office,  6th  June  1788. 

**Sir, — Having  received  the  letters,  of  which  the  foregoing  are  true  Copies,  I  have  thought  it 
necessary  to  transmit  them  to  you,  as  the  information  respects  your  District.  I  have  wrote  in  answer 
to  Mr  Sinclair,  and  in  the  first  desired  him  to  Condescend  Specially  on  the  persons  of  the  delinquents, 
and  to  give  them  in  to  you,  who  would  prosecute  for  the  penalties  if  they  could  be  recovered,  which  I 
suspect  could  not  be  done  on  account  of  their  Poverty. 

**  As  the  second  letter  Condescends  upon  a  number  that  I  have  no  idea  can  either  pay  the  duty  of 
being  legally  authorized,  and  far  less  the  penalties  of  transgressing  the  law,  it  rendered  my  suspicions 
still  stronger  with  regard  to  the  truth  of  the  information,  especially  as  the  Gentleman  wanted  to  be 


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392  KIRKWALL   IN   TflE  ORKNEYS. 

employed,  and  therefore  I  wrote  to  him  that  before  I  would  take  any  step  of  that  nature  I  would  send 
copies  of  his  letters  to  you,  and  require  ^ou  to  examine  into  the  facts  therein  set  forth,  and  to  report 
thereupon  and  upon  the  condition  and  circumstances  of  the  delinquents,  which  I  must  desire  you  to 
do  accordingly  ;  and  if  it  shall  appear  that  such  frauds  are  carried  on  against  the  Revenue  as  are 
represented,  and  by  people  who  are  able  to  pay  either  duties  or  penalties,  measures  must  be  fallen 
upon  to  carry  the  law  into  effectual  execution. — I  am,  Dear  Sir,  Your  most  obedient  Servant, 

(Signed)       Geo.  iKXEa" 

The  letter  is  addressed  to  Mr  James  Riddoch,  Collector  of  the  Stamp  Duties,  Kirkwall ; 
and  above  the  address,  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  in  compliance  with  some  ancient  postal 
regulation,  are  the  words,  "  Single  Sheet."  Mr  Innes'  instruction  to  carry  the  law  into  effect 
must  have  put  Mr  Riddoch  into  a  quandary.  He  could  not  prosecute  the  poor  and  allow  his 
wealthy  friends  to  go  scot  free.  It  is  taken  for  granted  that  he  himself  was  guiltless  of  having 
ever  tasted  a  drop  of  contraband  liquor.  Whatever  the  cause,  he  was  dilatory  in  the  matter, 
and,  after  a  couple  of  months,  a  more  zealous  officer  was  sent  north  to  examine  and  report. 
He  writes  : — 

"  Sir,— The  honble.  Board  of  Excise  was  pleased  to  send  me  to  the  Orkney  Islands  in  the  month 
of  July  last  to  ascertain  the  duties  of  Excise,  as  the  tack  of  the  Composition  terminatetl  the  5th  of 
said  month  ;  during  my  stay  there,  which  was  to  the  end  of  November,  I  discovered  a  great  many 
Retailers  of  Spirits  and  other  liquors  without  either  the  British  or  foreign  Spirit  licences  or  i/iine 
licence ;  Jas.  Erskine,  Mercht.  in  BLirkwall,  being  the  ouly  person  who  had  out  these  licences,  and 
which  he  obtained  at  Edinr. 

"  As  I  wished  to  make  the  most  Revenue  I  could  while  there,  I  granted  foreiffn  licences  to  the 
undermentioned  persons,  tho'  thev  had  not  the  British  licence,  and  at  the  bottom  lenjoined  them  to 
apply  for  and  take  out  the  British  license  from  Mr  James  Riddoch,  the  Person  appointed  to  grant 
such  ;  but  I  had  reason  to  believe  that  Mr  Riddoch  had  never  possessed  himself  of  the  licences,  nor 
had  they  a  design  to  take  them  out.  Therefore  I  consider  it  my  duty  to  lay  the  whole  before  you, 
and  am  well  assured  that  if  a  proper  person  was  appointed  to  look  after  the  retailers  of  Ale  and 
Spirits,  the  Revenue  would  ^in  considerably  and  the  County  would  derive  a  very  great  beoefit,  as  at 
present  the  practice  of  retailmg  Spirits  is  too  general  and  attended  with  pernicious  consequences  to 
the  people,  as  from  the  cheapness  of  the  Gin  (tneir  common  drink,  and  all  smuggled  being  l^d  or  2d 
a  Gill)  they  are  enabled  to  drink  to  Excess,  to  the  destruction  of  their  health  and  morals.  I  told  Mr 
Riddoch  that  he  ought  to  apply  for  the  British  licences  and  urge  the  Retailers  to  take  them  out,  but 
you'll  know  if  he  h^  done  it. 

"  The  persons  to  whom  I  granted  the  Foreign  Spirit  Licences  are  :— Alexr.  Logic,  Kirkwall ; 
Hugh  Sclater,  Innkeeper  in  do.  ;  William  Allan,  senr..  Innkeeper  in  Stromness. — ^I  am,  Sir,  your 
most  humble  Servt.  (Signed)        Rodk.   Laurbnce,  Supervisor  of  Excise. 

"Dunse,  March  2nd,  1789." 

To  his  letter,  Mr  Laurence  appends  a  list  of  "  Unlicensed  Retailers  of  Ale,  Spirits,  and 
Wine  in  Orkney.**  They  numbered  one  hundred  and  two— fifty-five  in  Kirkwall,*  forty-two 
in  Stromness,  and  five  in  the  islands. 

*  See  Appendix  to  this  chapter. 


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APPENDIX  TO  CHAPTER  XXIIL 
Unlicensed  Retailebs  of  Ale,  Spirits,  and  Wine  in  Kirkwall,  1789. 


♦♦John  Reid  &  Co.,  Mercht. 

James  Laughton  Smith 

Jas.  Mainland 

Mary  Leslie 

••Robert  Spence 

•Thomas  Jamieson 

Mary  Syme 

William  Walter 

Isobel  Petrie,  alias  Widow  Kel- 

day 
John  Shearer 
James  Sinclair 
Helen  Yorston 
Magnus  Paul 
Janet  Liddel 
Huffh  Sclater 
Isobel  Taylor 
Margt.  Brough 
John  Grindwater 


Jean  Smith,  alias  Mrs  Rendall 

Jas.  Spence 

Jean  Cock 

John  Oddie 

Robert  Nicolson 

••Robert  Flett 

James  Mouatt 

•James  Stewart 

Edward  Gorrie 

Janet  Sinclair 

Thos.  Petrie 

Oliver  Scott 

Peffgy  Smith 

•Chas.  Erskine 

John  Eunson 

George  Sinclair 

Peter  Lauffhton 

Donald  Calder 

Alexr.  Stewart 


Hugh  Mowatt 

•George  Rendall 

James  Petrie 

John  Mowatt,  Jail-Keeper 

Wilm.  Bremner,  junr. 

David  Eunson 

•Thomas  Traill 

Peter  Flett 

Anne  Linnie 

Robt.  Symie 

Wilm.  Driver 

Robert  Corston 

Robert  Galium 

Peter  Wick 

Thos.  lingie 

James  Drummond 

Margt.  Irvine 

George  Scott 


"  Those  marked  thus  *  are  merchants^  not  public-house  keepers.  Those  marked  thus  *^ 
sell  wine  and  spirits  of  the  above  description.  All  the  rest  keep  public-houses,  and  many  of 
them  very  wealthy,  and  retail  all  kinds  of  wine,  spirits,  etc.  If  you  please  to  prosecute,, 
sufficient  proof  will  be  brought." 


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CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Pabdale, 

15  ARCHING  with  Brandiequoy,  eastward,  was  Pabdale.  This  is  perhaps  the  oldest  name 
\  in  the  mainland  of  Orkney,  and  it  points  to  a  time  when  one  of  St.  Columba's  monks 
came  and  settled  as  a  missionary  among  the  Pictish  inhabitants  of  the  ancient 
hamlet.  The  papa,  or  father,  without  any  doubt,  had  his  monastic  cell  somewhere  in  the  dale 
of  the  burn  that  ran  past  the  huts  of  his  flock  into  the  Oyce. 

In  keeping  with  its  name,  Pabdale  anciently  belonged  to  the  Church.  In  the  Charter  of 
James  III.  the  adjacent  land  of  Rowisquoy  was  given  to  the  Burgh,  but  Pabdale  is  not 
mentioned.  In  Lord  Sinclair's  Rental  it  does  not  appear,  but  in  the  Rental  of  1595  it  pays  to 
the  Bishop  "  2  barrel  butter,  and  in  teynd  2  meills  cost,  28  poultry,  and  44s  silver." 

"The  Milne  of  Pabdale  payis  6  meils  mele."  In  1614,  "Pabdaill,  with  the  Myll  of 
Pabdale,  was  set  in  few  to  Jon.  Findlison  in  Dundie."  In  1624,  William  Craigie  of  Pabdale 
was  contracted  to  Margaret,  daughter  of  Hew  Halcro  of  that  ilk. 

In  1783,  this  property  was  acquired  by  Robert  Laing,  merchant,  Dean-of-Guild.  Laing  is 
an  old  nauie  in  Orkney.  Mr  George  Petrie  notes  a  contract  of  marriage  between  Alexander 
Laing,  smith,  and  Marjorie  Gadie,  dated  Kirkwall,  1615.  In  April  1665  is  registered  the 
marriage  of  "  Helen,  lawl.  daughter  of  Robert  Laing,  late  souldier,  and  Gathering  Henryson." 
In  1698,  Thomas  Laing,  in  Eday,  was  a  burgess  of  Kirkwall.  In  1725,  James  Laing,  probably 
a  son  of  Thomas,  assisted  at  the  capture  of  Gow  the  Pirate.  He  got  a  lease  from  James  Baikie 
of  Tanker ness  of  all  his  lands  in  Eday,  3rd  Feb.  1738.*  Tradition  credits  this  James  with  two 
wives  and  thirty-four  children,  but  when  it  wishes  us  to  believe  that  one  wife  was  the  mother 
of  seventeen  daughters  and  the  other  of  seventeen  sons,  tradition  is  somewhat  too  exacting. 
One  of  the  sons,  Gilbert,  had  a  large  fortune  left  him,  and  he  added  the  name  Meason  to  his 
own  in  deference  to  the  author  of  his  wealth,  Meason  of  Lindertis.t  In  1808,  he  represented 
Kirkwall  in  the  Convention  of  Royal  Burghs.  When  he  mortified  £1000  for  the  upkeep  of 
the  Cathedral,  he  styled  himself  of  Moredun.  Gilbert's  brother,  Robert,  who  bought  Pabdale, 
was  for  some  time  Provost  of  Kirkwall.  It  is  evident  that  the  merchant  secured  this  property 
for  his  son,  Malcolm,  the  historian,  for  we  find  the  latter  granting  feus  off  the  estate  during 
his  father's  lifetime. 

Pabdale  was  the  eastern  boundary  of  what  is  now  Albert  Street,  a  narrow  lane  separating 
the  farm  from  the  back  yards  of  the  houses.  Though  the  land  belonged  to  Mr  Laing,  the 
public  had  rights  within  the  Pabdale  bounds.  The  bum  for  washing,  and  its  banks  for 
bleaching  purposes,  were  claimed  by  the  women  of  Kirkwall  as  theirs  from  time  immemorial. 

After  Malcolm  Laing  had  been  in  possession  for  some  years,  he  intimated  to  the  Council 
that  he  wished  to  square  off  and  enclose  his  property,  so  the  Magistrates  took  steps  to  guard 
*  H.  L.        t  Infonnation  received  from  William  Cowan,  Esq. 


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PABDALE.  395 

the  rights  of  the  people.  How  the  Council  preserved  the  popular  rights  may  be  seen  by  the 
fact  that  down  to  1793  a  piece  of  ground,  "ar/jacent  to  the  lands  of  South  Pabdale,"  had 
always  been  known,  under  diverse  spelling,  as  the  "  Ba'  Lea  of  Kirkwall,"  but,  in  a  charter 
granted  that  year  by  Malcolm  Laing  to  the  Session  of  the  New  Church,  it  is  called  the  "  Ball 
Lay  of  Pabdale." 

Dr  Hew  Scott,  in  his  most  interesting  work,  **  Fasti  Ecclesiaj  Scoticanse,"  falls  into  a 
remarkable  error  regarding  young  Laing's  education.  In  his  notice  of  the  Rev.  Alexander 
Nisbet,  of  Shapinsay,  after  recording  the  minister's  death  in  1758,  he  adds: — "He  kept  a 
Boarding  School  and  Establishment,  at  which  the  celebrated  Malcolm  Laing,  Esq.,  advocate, 
and  others  received  their  education."  But  Malcolm  Laing  was  born  some  years  after 
Mr  Nisbet's  death,  and  went  from  the  Grammar  School  of  Kirkwall  to  the  University  of 
Edinburgh.  During  his  professional  curriculum  Laing  became  the  friend  of  Brougham, 
Jeffrey,  Cockburn,  and  others  who  afterwards  became  famous  in  a  period  perhaps  the  most 
brilliant  in  the  history  of  the  Scottish  Bar. 

In  1785,  Laing  became  a  member  of  the  Faculty  of  Advocates,  but  though  he  showed 
eminent  ability  and  excellent  qualifications  as  a  special  pleader,  he  found  bar  practice 
uncongenial  work.  His  voice  never  lost  its  "tones  provincial,"  and  his  manner  was  too 
independent  to  be  winning.  His  speech,  however,  in  defence  of  Gerald,  who  was  tried  for 
sedition  in  1794,  was  pronounced  by  Lord  Cockburn  to  be  the  best  that  was  made  for  any  of 
the  political  prisoners  of  the  time.  But  the  Advocates'  Library  had  more  attraction  for  him 
than  the  Courts  of  Law,  and  there  he  gratified  his  thirst  for  historical  investigation.  In  1800, 
Laing  published  his  "  History  of  Scotland  from  the  Union  of  the  Crowns  to  the  Union  of  the 
Kingdoms."  In  1804,  he  published  a  second  edition  of  this  work,  prefixing  a  "  Dissertation  on 
the  Participation  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  in  the  murder  of  Darnley,"  which  is  perhaps  the 
author's  ablest  production.  And  while  his  material  was  collected  in  Edinburgh,  it  is  inter- 
esting to  think  that  much,  perhaps  most,  of  his  work  was  written  in  his  father's  house  in 
Kirkwall. 

On  the  first  day  of  October  1788,  the  dyke  of  Pabdale  mill-dam  burst,  and  the  rush  of 
water  created  havoc  along  the  course  of  the  burn.  Mrs  Anderson,  wife  of  the  minister  of  Evie, 
writing  to  Mr  Watt  of  Skaill,  describes  it  "  as  a  second  deluge."  But  though  it  must  have 
done  much  damage,  the  Council  Records  entirely  ignore  it,  and  tradition  naturally  exaggerates 
and  makes  it  threaten  to  destroy  the  town.  Checked  by  the  piers  of  the  Lang  Stean,  the 
water  poured  down  the  Lang  Stean  Close  in  such  volume  as  to  flood  the  ground  floors  of  the 
houses  there ;  then,  crossing  the  street,  this  diverted  torrent  rejoined  the  main  stream  below 
the  Bridge  and  rushed  down  the  Hempow  to  the  Peerie  Sea. 

When,  in  1805,  Robert  Laing  died,  Malcolm  sold  the  town  house  and  made  Pabdale  his 
home.  From  1807  to  1812  he  represented  the  County  in  Parliament,  where  he  became  a 
personal  friend  and  zealous  supporter  of  Charles  James  Fox.  On  the  12th  of  August  1814, 
Scott,  along  with  a  party  of  old  Parliament  House  friends,  visited  the  historian  at  Pabdale.  * 
"  The  morning,  which  was  rainy,  clears  up  pleasantly,  and  Hamilton,  Erskine,  Duflf,  and  I  walk 
to  Malcolm  Laing's,  who  has  a  pleasant  house  about  half  a  mile  from  the  town.  Our  old 
acquaintance,  though  an  invalid,  received  us  kindly.  He  looks  very  poorly  and  cannot  walk 
without  assistance,  but  seems  to  retain  all  the  quick,  earnest,  and  vivacious  intelligence  of  his 
character  and  manner."  Incidentally  we  learn  from  Scott  that  Pabdale  garden  was  a  source 
of  interest  and  pleasure  to  the  invalid.  "  All  vegetables  grow  heret  freely,  and  there  are  one 
or  two  attempts  at  trees,  where  they  are  sheltered  by  walls.  How  ill  they  succeed  may  be 
conjectured  from  our  bringing  with  us  a  quantity  of  brushwood,  conimissioned  by  Malcolm 

*  See  ante,  p.  134.  t  Kirkwall. 


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S96  KIKKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Laing  from  Aberbrothwick  to  be  sticks  to  his  pease.    This  trash  we  brought  two  hundred 
miles."* 

There  is  somethiag  very  sad  in  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  death  of  Sheriff 
Erskine,  as  recorded  at  the  time  : — 

*' Aug.  14. t — At  his  house  in  Albany  Street,  Edinburgh,  the  Hon.  WiUiam  Erskine  of  Kinedder, 
one  of  the  Senators  of  the  College  of  Justice.  His  Loroship  had  been  for  sometime  past  in  a  feeble 
state  of  health,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  his  end  was  accelerated  by  the  effects  produced  on 
his  mind  by  some  reports  which  had  lately  been  circulated  to  his  prejudice.  As  soon  as  these  reports 
reached  his  ear,  some  weeks  ago,  his  Lordship  requested  of  some  of  his  friends  to  investigate  the 
matter  in  the  fullest  manner,  and  to  adopt  such  measures  fur  the  vindication  of  his  character,  by 
taking  legal  steps  against  the  authors  of  these  calumnies,  or  otherwise,  as  they  nright  judce  proper. 
The  gentlemen  thus  appointed,  consisting  of  sevenil  individuals  of  the  highest  respectability  and 
professional  eminence,  accordingly  set  on  toot  an  inquiry,  in  which  they  were  aided  by  the  friends  of 
the  husband  of  the  lady  whose  name  had  been  likewise  aspersed,  and  the  result  was  a  unanimous 
opinion,  that  the  whole  of  these  reports  were  utterly  devoid  of  truth.  A  certificate  to  this  effect  was 
signed  by  the  friends  of  both  parties,  and  Lord  Kincdder's  counsel  and  advisers  added  an  opinion  in 
the  following  terms  : — *  In  these  circumstances,  we  consider  any  legal  proceedings  as  unnecessary  for 
the  vindication  of  the  parties,  and  also  inexpedient,  not  only  on  account  of  the  protracted  and  painful 
discussions  which  they  wouhl  necessarily  occasion,  but  likewise  because  such  measures  might  appear 
to  attach  an  importance  to  these  calumnies  of  which  they  are  unworthy.'  To  the  majority  of  persons, 
these  idle  rumours  would  have  given  little  distress  ;  but  to  Lord  Kinedder's  sensitive  and  delicate 
mind,  they  were  a  source  of  gi'eat  anguish  ;  and  actiug  on  a  frame  prenously  debilitated  by  sickness, 
they  produced  a  nervous  fever,  which  cut  off  this  amiable  and  accomplished  man  in  the  prime  of  his 
life.  His  Ijordship  was  attended  during  his  illness  by  Messrs  James  Russell  and  Joseph  Bell,  surgeons, 
who  did  not  apprehend  any  serious  danger  for  his  life  ;  and  indeed  so  little  was  the  event  expected 
that,  when  he  expired,  the  medical  gentleman  who  was  present  believed  it  for  some  time  only  to  be  a 
faint,  and  measures  were  taken  for  restoring  animation,  though,  alas  !  without  effect. ":{: 

Though  an  invalid  at  the  time  of  Scott's  visit,  Mr  Laing  still  took  an  active  and  influential 
part  in  public  concerns.  The  East  Hill,  which  had  been  a  common,  was  feued  about  1814,  and 
several  portions  were  enclosed.  This  was  done  that  the  town  might  be  able  to  raise  money  for 
public  purposes.  Birstane  at  that  time  belonged  to  the  Trustees  of  Sir  William  Honyman, 
and  Mr  Rae,  factor  for  the  Trust,  procured  interdict  against  the  Council  and  instituted 
proceedings  before  the  Court  of  Session.  The  following  letter  is  an  earnest  appeal  from  Mr 
Laing  to  one  of  the  Trustees  to  stay  those  proceedings  :— 

"  My  Dear  Lord, — I  apply  to  you  with  the  freedom  of  an  old  friend,  on  the  subject  of  a  very 
useless  and  vexatious  litigation  which  is  likely'  to  take  place  between  Sir  William  Honyman's  Trustees 
and  the  Town  of  Kirkwall. 

**  The  circumstances  of  the  case  are  explained  in  the  answers  for  the  Town  to  the  Bill  of  Suspen- 
sion and  Interdict  at  the  instance  of  the  Trustees,  which  I  must  entreat  you  to  examine.  I  can  vouch 
for  the  facts  which  it  contains  :  particularly  for  the  benefit  already  derived  from  the  rapid  improve- 
ment of  a  barren  and  worthless  common,  and  from  the  accumulation  of  a  pennanent  fund  for  the 
purpose  of  completing  the  pier  and  harbour  of  Kirkwall ;  then,  for  i*epairing  and  paving  the  streets 
anew  ;  and  finally  for  establishing  an  additional  Public  School. 

"  If  any  one  heritor  has  a  right  to  complain  it  is  myself,  as  the  new  Inclosures  surround  three 
sides  of  Pabdale,  a  farm  of  200  acres,  on  which  I  reside,  and  approach  within  100  feet  of  my  own 
inclosures.     But  the  common  was  always  so  worthless  that  I  never  turned  anything  upon  it  but  geese. 

"  As  the  farms  of  Birstane  and  Quoys  certainly  do  not  exceed  fifty  acres,  Sir  W.  Honyman  is  one  of 
the  least  considera1)Ie  Heritors  in  the  Parish,  and  Mr  Watt,  his  Tenant,  has  certainly  less  reason  than 
any  to  complain.  He  has  already  appropriated  and  inclosed  lOJ  acres  of  the  common  by  admeasure- 
ment, which  are  fully  equivalent  to  any  pasturage  that  could  be  claimed  for  such  small  farms.  The 
small  enclosures  fewed  by  the  Town  extend  from  Kirkwall  along  the  west  side  of  the  hill,  having  suffi- 
cient pasture  on  the  east  or  opposite  side  where  Birstane,  etc. ,  is  situated.  The  road  of  100  feet  breadth 
extends  from  Kirkwall  in  a  direct  line  to  Mr  Watt's  gate.  It  is  the  cart  road  I  use  alon^  my  own 
farm,  and  it  is  lined  with  quarries  full  of  rubbish  in  consequence  of  the  inclosures.  If  Mr  Watt  will 
join  in  any  common  plan,  the  poaching  in  winter  may  be  prevented  by  a  few  runs  of  our  carts  in 
summer. 

•  Scott's  Diary.        t  1822.        t  Scots  Magazine,  1822,  n.s.,  vol.  xi.,  p.  520. 


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PABDALE.  397 

"In  one  word,  I  cannot  really  discover  that  Sir  W.  Honyman's  interest  has  suffered  a  single 
ahiUing  of  loss  by  the  fews  ;  and  as  these  inclosures  are  now  completed  and  in  the  course  of  cultiva- 
tion, it  is  obvious  that  nothing  can  be  gained  by  the  Bill  of  Suspension  and  Interdict. 

"  But  the  real  cause  of  the  dispute  I  must  ascribe  distinctly  and  explicitly  to  some  petty 
retaliation  on  the  part  of  Mr  Rae,  the  Factor.  Ou  Christmas  day  I  was  informed  at  dinner  that 
Captain  Mackay,  who  had  obtained  a  lease  from  the  Trustees,  had  begun  to  demolish  the  larse 
semi-circle  of  stones  at  Stennes,  bidding  defiance  to  the  Grentlemen  of  the  County.  I  entreated  the 
Sheriff  Substitute,  who  was  present,  to  interfere  for  the  preservation  of  those  public  monuments  of  the 
most  remote  antiquity.  By  nis  advice  Provost  Riddoch  and  I,  as  Justices  of  Peace,  made  application 
to  the  p.  Fiscal,  who  executed  a  Sist  and  Suspension  against  Capt.  Mackay,  in  order  that  the  whole 
matter  might  be  laid  before  the  Trustees  by  Mr  Erskine,  the  Sheriff.  But  the  semi-circle,  with  the 
exception  of  two  or  three  stones,  was  already  demolished,  and  it  appears  from  the  enclosed  copy  of 
Capt.  Mackay's  letter  that  Mr  Rae  had  concurred  in  the  destruction  of  the  circle,  which  a  single  word 
would  have  prevented.  I  need  not  mention  the  general  disapprobation  which,  to  their  great  reg^ret, 
thev  have  so  needlessly,  and  on  Mr  Rae's  part,  inadvertently  incurred.  But  as  these  transactions 
took  place  at  the  end  of  December,  and  were  followed  on  the  25th  January,  almost  in  course  of  Post, 
by  the  present  Bill  of  Suspension  and  Interdict,  upon  a  subject,  too,  in  which  Mr  Watt  had  already 
acquiesced,  I  must  really  ascribe  the  measure  to  some  petty  pique  and  resentment  on  the  part  of  Mr 
Rae  aeainst  Mr  Riddoch  and  myself,  who  have  the  chief  interest  and  direction  in  the  Town  Council 
of  Kincwall. 

"  The  mischief  it  does  is  this.-  The  fund  which  the  Town  has  so  industriously  accumulated  for 
purposes  of  publick  utility  will  be  absorbed  and  exhausted  bv  an  idle  litigation,  from  which  neither 
party  can  derive  the  least  benefit.  I  have  no  disesteem  for  Mr  Rae,  who  is  prejudiced  rather  against 
Mr  Kiddoch  than  me,  as  he  blames  him  (though  from  the  documents  I  nave  seen  I  think  most 
unjustly)  for  his  removal  from  the  Customs,  where  his  situation  was  held  incompatible  with  the  office 
of  a  Factor.  But  I  refer  to  Mr  Peterkin,  our  new  Sheriff-Substitute,  as  a  man  unconnected  with  the 
County,  of  whose  worth  and  probity  Mr  John  Murray  will  give  you  most  ample  testimony,  to  say 
whether  Sir  W.  Honyman  or  his  tenant  has  suffered  any  reall  loss  from  the  inclosures  fewed  out  by 
the  Town,  or  can  derive  any  benefit  from  an  expensive  litigation  after  the  inclosures  have  been 
completed. 

**  Upon  this  account,  my  dear  Lord,  I  appl}'  to  you  frankly,  as  one  of  the  Trustees,  to  make 
enouiry  into  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  in  order  that,  if  you  see  just  cause  for  it,  there  may  be  an 
ena  to  any  farther  litigation  on  the  subject.— I  remain,  etc." 

On  the  above  copy  there  is  nothing  to  show  the  name  of  the  person  addressed,  but  as  Sir 
William  Honyman  sat  in  the  High  Court  of  Justiciaiy  as  Lord  Armadale,  this  Trustee  was 
probably  a  colleague  on  the  bench.  From  the  frankness  and  friendly  circumstantiality  of  the 
letter,  it  may  readily  be  inferred  that  Laing  and  he  had  been  intimately  acquainted  when,  as 
young  advocates,  they  had  paraded  the  great  hall  of  the  Parliament  House.  Very  probably 
"  My  dear  Lord  "  was  Lord  President  Hay  Campbell  of  Succoth,  who,  before  his  elevation  to 
the  bench,  had  been  Sheriff  of  Orkney.  The  copy,  dateless,  itself  indicates  the  year  of  the 
feuing  of  the  East  Hill,  and  it  states  the  threefold  object  the  town  had  in  view  in  thus  dis- 
posing of  its  property.  The  year  was  1814,  and  the  money  was  wanted  to  complete  the  pier, 
to  repave  the  streets,  and  to  build  another  school.  Mr  Laing's  letter  concerning  the  Birstane 
road  had  due  effect.  His  suggestion  was  adopted ;  the  interdict  was  removed,  and  Mr 
Peterkin  was  appointed  arbiter  between  the  Town  Council  and  the  Honyman  Trust : — 

*'  March  1816. — Minute  of  Reference  by  James  Riddoch,  Esq.  of  Cairston,  Provost  of  Kirkwall, 
for  himself  and  on  behalf  of  the  Magistrates  and  Tot^ti  Council  of  said  Burgh  on  the  one  part,  and 
John  Rae,  Esq. ,  Factor  for  the  Trustees  of  Sir  Will.  Honyman  of  Grajmsay,  Baronet,  and  Robert 
Watt,  their  Tenant  on  the  Fanns  of  Birston  and  Quoys,  on  the  other  part. 

**  The  Parties  being  involved  in  a  Process  of  Suspension  and  Interdict  before  the  Court  of  Session 
relative  to  the  Road  leading  from  Kirkwall  to  the  farms  of  Birston  and  Quoys,  which  Process  they 
are  mutually  desirous  to  settle  in  an  amicable  manner ;  and  therefore  the  Magistrates  and  Town 
Council  of  Kirkwall  have  agreed,  and  hereby  agree,  to  make  or  repair  at  the  expense  of  the  Burgh, 
and  at  the  sight  of  Alexander  Peterkin,  Esq.,  Sheriff-Substitute  of  Orkney,  such  part  of  the  said  Road 
as  the  said  Alex.  Peterkin  shall  fix  and  determine  ;  and  the  said  Alex.  Peterkin  is  also  hereby 
authorised  to  fix  and  determine  the  manner  in  which  the  said  Road  is  to  be  made  or  repaired  and  the 
period  when  the  work  shall  be  begun  and  completed,  and  whatever  the  said  Alex.  Peterkin  shall 
appoint  and  determine  in  the  premises,  the  parties  hereby  oblige  themselves  to  abide  by  and  imple- 
ment and  fulfil  in  all  respects  ;  and  upon  the  said  Mtigistrates  and  Council  making  or  repairing  the 


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898  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

said  road  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  said  Alex.  Peterkin,  it  is  agreed  that  the  foresaid  process  shall  be 
relinquished  and  discharged.  (Signed)        James  Riddoch. 

"  12th  March  1816."  Jno.  Rab. 

"  Kirkwall,  16th  March  1816. 
"I,  Alexr.  Peterkin,  Sheriff-Substitute  of  Orkney,  Arbiter  appointed  bv  the  before  written 
Minute  of  Submission,  having,  in  presence  of  a  Committee  of  the  Town  Council  of  Kirkwall,  and  of 
Messrs  John  Rae,  for  Sir  William  Honyman's  Trustees,  and  Robert  Watt,  the  parties'  Submitters, 
visited  and  inspected  the  grounds  through  which  the  road  in  dispute  betwixt  the  parties  passed  ; 
having  pointed  out  the  line  of  road  which  in  terms  of  the  Submission  1  conceived  it  incumbent  on  the 
Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  to  form— running  from  near  the  house  of  Pabdale,  at  the  west,  to  the  end 
of  the  enclosures,  at  the  east,  towards  Birston  and  Quoys  :  Having  appointed  the  Magistrates 
accordingly  to  make  said  road  in  the  manner  they  thought  sufficient,  subject  to  my  future  inspection : 
Having  afterwards,  in  presence  of  a  Committee  of  their  number  and  of  Mr  Robert  Watt,  gone  over 
and  inspected  carefully  the  road  which  they  have  made,  and  being  now  fully  satisfied  therewith,  I  do 
hereby  Give  furth  and  pronounce  as  my  Decreet  Arbitral  That  the  Magistrates  of  Kirkwall  have  made 
a  good  and  sufficient  road  betwixt  the  Town  of  Kirkwall  and  the  Farms  of  Birston  and  Quoys,  in  as 
far  as  they  were  bound  to  do  in  lieu  of  an  old  track  of  a  road,  partly  shut  up  bv  them  or  their  feuars, 
on  the  north  side  of  Pabdale  :— And  I  declare  the  engagement  come  under  by  the  Magistrates  in  said 
Minute  of  Submission  fully  implemented,  and  the  Process  anent  said  road  thereby  entirely  extinguished 
and  discharged  : — And  appoint  the  foregoing  Minute  of  Submission  and  the  Decreet  Arbitral  to  be 
registered  in  the  Sheriff  Court  Books  of  Orkney  for  preservation.  In  witness  whereof  I  have  sub- 
scribed these  presents,  written,"  etc.  (Signed)        **Alex.  Peteukin.'* 

If  Mr  Rae's  conduct  is  not  to  be  admired  in  his  interference  with  a  wise  municipal  Act, 
what  can  be  said  of  his  connivance  at  the  destruction  of  the  stones  of  Stenness  ?  As  often 
happens  in  such  cases,  the  most  valuable  fell  first.  The  stone  which  held  the  fateful  "  Bing 
of  Odin  "  was  broken  up  to  build  a  barn.  This  stone  was  standing  on  the  16th  of  August 
1814,  and  before  Christmas  Day  of  the  same  year  it  was  down.  It  is  somewhat  remarkable 
that  Mr  Rae  should  have  acted  as  guide  to  Sir  Walter  Scott  when  the  Wizard  visited  tlie 
magic  circle,  and  that  so  soon  afterwards  he  should  have  sanctioned  this  act  of  vandalism. 

"  16th  August  1814.— The  day  clears  up,  and  Mr  Rae,  Lord  Armadale's  factor,  comes  oif  from  his 
house,  called  Clestrom,  to  breakfast  with  us.  We  go  ashore  with  him.  His  farm  is  well  cultivated, 
and  he  has  procured  an  excellent  breed  of  horses  from  Lanarkshire,  of  which  county  he  is  a  native  ; 
strong,  hardy  Galloways,  fit  for  labour  or  hacks.  By  this  we  profited,  as  Mr  Rae  mounted  us  all,  and 
we  set  off  to  visit  the  Standing  Stones  of  Stenliouse  or  Stennis." 

**  Upon  the  tongues  of  land  which,  approaching  each  other,  divide  the  lakes  of  Stennis  and 
Harray,  are  situated  the  Standing  Stones.  The  isthmus  on  the  eastern  side  exhibits  a  semi -circle  of 
immensely  large  upright  pillars  of  unhewn  stone,  surrounded  by  a  mound  of  earth.  As  the  mound  is 
discontinued,  it  does  not  seem  that  the  circle  was  ever  completed.  The  flat  or  open  part  of  the  semi- 
circle looks  up  a  plain,  where  at  a  distance  is  seen  a  large  tumulus.*  The  highest  of  these  stones  may 
be  about  sixteen  feet,  and  I  think  there  are  none  so  low  as  twelve  feet.  At  irregular  distances  are 
pointed  out  other  un1ie>vn  pillars  of  the  same  kind.  One,  a  little  to  the  westward,  is  perforated  with 
a  round  hole,  perhaps  to  bind  a  victim.'' 

**  Mr  Rae  seems  to  think  the  common  people  have  no  tradition  of  the  purpose  of  these  stones,  but 
probably  he  has  not  jmrticularly  enquired. 

This  la.st  remark  is  very  significant.  To  a  man  of  Sir  Walter's  tastes  and  penetration,  the 
factor  showed  himself  a  utilitarian  with  not  the  slightest  antiquarian  curiosity.  When  Scott 
heard  of  the  destruction  of  this  semi-circle,  and  particularly  of  the  stone  of  Odin,  his  own  lines 
concerning  the  removal  of  the  Cross  of  Edinburgh  must  have  reverted  to  his  memory  : — 

"  O  !  be  his  tomb  as  lead  to  lead 
Upon  its  dull  destroyer's  head."  t 

Scott's  idea,  that  the  "  round  hole  "  was  meant  to  bind  a  victim,  goes  on  all  fours,  though 
in  a  different  sense,  with  the  local  tradition  that  through  it  has  been  bound  many  a  victim. 

*  Maeshowet  t  Marmion. 


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PABDALE. 


399 


Lovers  plighted  their  troth  by  each  grasping  the  other's  hand  through  that  "  round  hole,"  and 
there  dividing  between  them  a  broken  sixpenny  piece.  Such  a  betrothal  was  regarded  as 
peculiarly  binding.  When  by  mutual  consent  the  contracting  persons  resolved  to  sever  the 
bond,  they  went  to  the  church  of  Stenness,  which  had  a  door  at  each  end,  and,  turning  back 
to  back  in  front  of  the  pulpit,  walked  out  through  opposite  doors.  If  one  of  the  lovers  died 
before  the  marriage  knot  was  tied,  the  other  could  only  be  freed  from  the  obligation  by 
touching  the  dead  hand  which,  when  living,  had  been  grasped  in  pledge  of  betrothal  through 
the  sacred  Ring  of  Odin. 


stone  with  '*  Ring  of  Odin.' 


From  the  following  letter,  it  would  appear  that  Mr  Hae  had  agreed  to  the  breaking  of 
some  of  the  stones  : — 

Mr  Laing  to  Capt.  Edme.«*ton, 

**  Dear  Sir, — I  return  Capt.  Mackay's  letter,  who,  I  am  satisfied,  was  quite  unconscious,  as  he 
seems  to  be  still  ignorant  of  the  injury  he  has  unwarily  done  both  to  himself  and  to  the  antiquities  of 
the  county. 

**  These  old  stones  must  have  subsisted  above  one  thousand  years,  as  they  precede  the  Norwegian 
Annals  of  the  Country,  which  commence  in  the  ninth  century.  They  are  recorded  in  every  history 
and  description  of  this  Country  ;  have  been  visited  by  every  traveller  for  half  a  century,  and  are 
familiarly  known  to  the  Public  as  the  earliest  monuments  of  British  antiquity.  The  mischief  done 
to  our  antiquities  cannot  be  concealed,  nor  the  knowledge  of  the  fact  confined  to  this  Country.  The 
destruction  of  the  semi-circle  of  stones  must  be  publicly  known,  and  will  always  be  coupled  with  Capt. 
Mackay's  name,  who  may  be  interrogated  perhaps  on  his  own  farm  by  such  inquisitive  travellers  as 
Sir  Joseph  Banks  and  Sir  Walter  Scott,  who  have  both  seen  them  entire.     Pray,  Sir,  what  has  become 

*  From  Sketch  by  the  Countess  of  Sutherland,  1800.     Favoured  by  Wm.  Dunnet,  Esq. 


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400  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

of  the  rest  of  those  stones  ?  The  offence  has  not  been  given  to  Mr  Riddoch  or  to  me,  who  interposed 
merely  as  Justices  of  Peace,  but  to  the  community  at  Urge,  which  has  an  interest  in  the  preservation 
of  public  monuments,  and  to  men  of  letters  and  curiosity'  throughout  the  kingdom.  If  Mr  Rae  oon- 
carred  in  the  destruction  of  all  but  two  or  three  of  these  stones,  I  am  sorry  for  it,  and  must  lament 
that  his  residence  in  the  Country  has  inspired  so  little  reverence  for  its  ancient  monuments. 

**  Be  pleased  to  communicate  this  to  Capt.  Mackay  as  the  only  explanation  I  can  give  of  my 
sentiments  on  the  subject  and  of  my  deep  regret  at  the  unforseen  injury'  which  the  country  has  sus- 
tained.— I  remain,  etc. 

"  6th  January  1816." 

Captain  Mackay  was  probably  a  Caithness  man,  and  his  grieve,  William  Dunnet,  who 
superintended  the  breaking  up  of  these  stones,  certainly  belonged  to  that  county. 

Malcolm  Laing  died,  1818,  in  the  fifty- third  year  of  his  age.  His  friend,  Lord  Cockburn, 
says  of  him  : — "  Depth,  truth,  and  independence  as  a  historian  were  the  least  of  his  merits,  for 
he  was  a  firm,  warm-hearted,  honest  man,  whose  interesting  and  agreeable  companionship 
was  only  made  the  more  interesting  by  a  hard  peremptory  Celtic  (sic J  manner  and  accent." 

Malcolm  Laing  was  succeeded  in  Pabdale  by  his  brother,  Samuel.  Samuel  Laing  devoted 
himself  largely  to  the  study  of  the  old  Norse  literature,  and  with  this  object  in  view  he  lived 
two  years  in  Norway,  and  afterwards  visited  Sweden  and  Denmark.  In  1844  he  published 
the  "  Heimskringla"  in  three  volumes.*  He  was  perhaps  the  most  popular  provost  Kirkwall 
ever  had,  and  the  most  liberal  where  the  interests  of  the  burgh  were  concerned.  Indeed  his 
liberality  affected  his  estate  and  led  to  the  sale  of  Pabdale. 

His  son,  Samuel  Laing  of  Crook,  lately  deceased,  was  one  of  the  ablest  men  that  Orkney 
has  produced.  As  a  financier  his  work  was  appreciated  by  Government,  and  in  this  connection 
he  published  in  1864,  "  My  Mission  to  India."  Though  a  very  busy  public  man,  chairman  of 
an  important  railway  and  member  of  Parliament,  he  found  time  for  much  writing,  chiefly  on 
finance  and  politics.  He  has  also  left  several  able  contributions  to  theological  polemics.  He 
represented  Orkney  and  Shetland  in  Parliament  from  1873  to  1885.  His  son,  Malcolm  Alfred 
Laing,  Esq.  of  Crook,  is  now  Lord-Lieutenant  of  the  County. 

From  the  gate  of  Pabdale  Avenue  away  to  Warrenfield,  all  the  houses  on  the  left  hand — 
East  Eoad,  Queen  Street,  Mill  Street,  King  Street,  School  Place,  and  Dundas  Crescent— are 
feus  off  Pabdale,  the  last  taking  its  name  from  the  family  in  present  possession  of  the  estate. 
The  streets  along  the  main  road  consist  mostly  of  private  houses. 

At  the  foot  of  East  Eoad,  where  a  store  now  stands,  the  Charity  School  was  opened  in 
1826.  It  was  in  one  room  up  an  outside  stair.  The  present  school  was  built  by  Miss  Kelly, 
sister-in-law  of  Mr  Laing,  about  1846.  Free  education  in  the  three  R.'s  and  sewing  was  given 
to  orphan  girls  or  the  daughters  of  very  poor  persons,  the  aim  being  to  make  them  self- 
supporting.t 

At  the  back  of  Mill  Street  is  a  square  through  which  runs  the  Bum  of  Pabdale.  This 
square  was  feued  by  William  Traill  of  Frotoft,  shipowner,  possibly  with  a  view  of  putting  up 
stores.  On  the  east  side  of  the  square,  a  building,  now  the  workshop  of  Messrs  Wilson, 
joiners,  is  still  known  as  the  "Brewery."  This  was  built  in  1816  by  James  Drever,  who 
bought  the  site  from  Traill,  and  started  business  as  a  brewer.  In  those  days,  however,  every 
household  brewed  its  own  beer,  just  as  it  baked  its  own  bread,  and  the  business  in  MUl  Square 
was  not  profitable.  But  Drever  was  a  resourceful  man.  He  had  bought  St.  Catherine's 
Quoys  at  the  corner  of  Catherine  Place  and  East  Road,  and  started  whisky  making.  The 
name  "  Brewery  "  attached  itself  to  the  distillery,  which  for  a  good  many  years  continued  to 

*  For  the  title  of  his  and  his  son's  numerous  works,  see  Cursiter's  **  List.'' 
t  Information  received  from  Miss  Baikie. 


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PABDALE.  401 

be  a  profitable  concern.  Mr  Traill  seems  to  have  started  distilling  in  the  old  "  Brewery/* 
for  in  a  Kirkwall  Directory  of  1825,  he  and  Drever  are  both  named  as  distillers. 

Opposite  TrailFs  brewery,  George  Robertson,  son  of  the  Congregational  minister,  bought 
a  site  and  erected  on  the  burnside  a  snuff  mill,  driven  of  course  by  water  power.  Now  that 
snuff-taking  has  gone  so  much  out  of  use,  it  seems  remarkable  that,  though  the  nostrils  of  all 
Orkney  had  been  thirled  to  that  mill,  it  would  have  been  possible  to  keep  it  going.  But  Mr 
Robertson  imported  more  snuff  than  he  manufactured,  and  had  within  his  own  business,  which 
was  largely  wholesale,  out-put  for  it  all.  The  convenience  of  having  such  a  mill  in  Kirkwall 
lay  in  the  fact  that  Mr  Robertson  was  a  tobacco  spinner.  He  bought  the  leaf  and  span  it  up 
into  "  twist.''  But  with  the  leaf  came  the  midrib  and  perhaps  a  bit  of  stem.  This  was  all 
bought  by  weight  as  tobacco  leaf  and  duty  paid  upon  it,  and  as  the  hard  parts  could  not  be 
spun,  a  serious  loss  would  have  been  sustained  had  these  not  been  utilised — hence  the  snuff 
mill.  George  Robertson  had  a  remarkable  career.  He  conducted  a  very  large  business, 
export  and  import,  and  would  doubtless  have  amassed  a  fortune  but  for  the  vicissitudes  to 
which  even  the  most  worthy  merchants  are  liable.  Judging  others  by  the  standard  of  his 
own  uprightness,  he  put  perfect  faith  in  those  with  whom  he  dealt,  and  especially  in  those  of 
his  own  religious  denomination,  and,  through  the  failure  of  two  of  his  Congregational  brethren 
in  the  south,  he  became  bankrupt.  What  the  estate  realised  does  not  concern  us  now.  The 
ruined  man  went  to  America,  resumed  business,  and  prospered.  When  he  had  accumulated 
money  enough  for  the  purpose,  he  paid  his  creditors  or  their  representatives  in  full,  with  five 
per  cent,  interest  on  their  claims  for  each  year  they  had  lain  out  of  their  money.  The  sur- 
prised recipients  accepted  this  unwonted  settlement,  and  sent  Mr  Robertson  a  present  of  plate 
as  a  testimonial  to  his  commercial  integrity.* 

Three  of  the  Pabdale  fields  have  to  some  extent  a  public  interest.  From  as  far  back  as 
the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the  Ba'lea,  as  the  name  indicates,  had  been  a  field 
where  men  and  boys  played  football.  There  were  really  two  Ba'leas— the  upper,  as  far  out  as 
Warrenfield  ;  and  the  lower,  down  where  the  U.P.  Manse  stands— both  were  burgh  property, 
and  both  are  now  included  in  the  lands  of  Pabdale.  From  the  fact  that  golf  had  been  played 
in  the  Ba'lea,  requiring  greater  space  than  either  of  the  two  taken  separately  can  afford,  the 
inference  is  that  the  upper  and  lower  leas  were  the  extremes  of  one  common,  and  that  Pab- 
dale's  first  encroachment  was  a  bite  out  of  the  middle.  Here  the  townspeople  held  their 
weapon  shows.  27th  June  1694,  the  Town  Council  "  ordains  the  whole  inhabitants  of  the 
Burgh  of  Kirkwall  to  be  in  reddiness,  with  their  amies  fixt,  to  meet  and  convein  and  to 
randevouze  upon  the  Ba'lay  to-morrow  on  Touck  of  drumb."  The  men  who  mustered  upon 
the  Ba'lea  in  the  days  of  William  III.  could  scarcely  be  called  volunteers,  for  the  penalty 
attached  to  absence  was  a  fine  of  JBlO.  But  heavier  penalties  than  pecuniary  mulcts  might  be 
imposed  upon  those  who  did  not  appear  at  a  weapon  show  : — 

**  In  his  Ma'tie's  name  and  authoritie  and  those  deputed  by  him  in  the  admiraltie  and  justiciarie 
of  Orkney,  these  are  willing  and  comanding  the  whole  Inhabitants  of  Kirkwall  and  parish  of  St.  ollaus 
to  keep  a  rendevooze  on  the  bailey  of  Kirkwall  on  thursday  the  5th  of  this  instant  month  of  March, 
with  sufficient  fixed  amies  furnished,  under  the  paine  to  tne  absents  to  be  accompted  contemners  of 
the  king's  au'tie,  and  to  pay  each  persone  twentie  punds  scots,  at  which  rendevouze  ther  is  furder 
orders  to  be  emitted  for  watching  and  defending  the  town  agst.  the  Comon  enimie  and  for  provyding 
ymselfs  in  armes  and  amunitione  for  yt  effect ;  Meane  whyll  all  ar  to  be  readie  to  ryse  upon  any 
alarme  for  defence  of  the  towne  a^t.  the  Comon  enimie,  Certifyeing  the  refusers  that  they  sallbe 
banished  out  of  the  towne  as  not  beins  worthie  to  leive  amongst  neiehtboures  and  his  Ma'tie's  Loyall 
subjects,  besyds  other  punishments  to  be  afflicted  according  to  law,  of  ye  qlk  all  ar  to  tak  notice  under 
the  highest  paine." 

*  Information  from  Samuel  Reid,  Esq.  of  Braebuster. 

3F 


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402  KIRKWALL  IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

Another  field  having  some  kind  of  public  interest  is  that  above  the  mill,  popularly  known 
as  the  "  Keelie  Park."  In  the  document  describing  Mr  Laing's  property  when  it  was  put  up 
for  sale  in  1852,  this  field  is  designated  '*  the  Cabbage  Park,  let  to  John  Muir's  representa- 
tives at  a  yearly  rent  of  £36."  John  Muir  had  been  the  miller,  and  very  possibly  this  park 
may  have  been  let  with  the  mills.  It  was  sublet  in  patches  to  those  of  the  townspeople  who 
had  no  gardens,  that  they  might  provide  themselves  with  vegetables.  How  necessary  it  was 
that  there  should  be  such  allotments  available  is  shown  by  an  old  Act  of  the  Town  Council, 
the  object  of  which  was  to  prevent  an  influx  of  paupers  from  the  country  districts  : — 

'*  LykewayeB  they  appoynt  a  proclamatioDe  to  be  given  forth,  certifying  all  the  heretors  and 
Lyferentars  within  the  saia  Brugh,  who  has  sett  or  shall  sett  houses  to  persones  within  the  said  tonne 
who  was  found  wanting  peats  and  kail,  that  they  will  be  severelie  fined,  and  appoynting  the  saids 
heretors  and  Lyferentars  not  to  harbour  or  keep  the  saids  persones  who  was  found  wanting  peats 
and  kaill  twentie-four  houres  efter  the  proclamatione,  except  the  saids  persones  be  provyded  since 
the  Last  visiting  the  toune,  ilk  persone  under  the  paine  of  ten  pounds  Scots  money." 

Another  field  of  semi-public  interest  is  the  **  Carters*  Park."  It  would  be  impossible  to 
find  out  with  certainty  who  first  brought  wheeled  vehicles  into  Orkney.  Perhaps  carts  were 
introduced  as  useful  accessories  to  the  kelp  industry,  but  it  was  not  till  the  close  of  the  last 
century  that  they  came  into  common  use.  For  a  time,  owing  to  the  expense  of  wheels,  it  was 
a  common  thing  to  drag  the  vehicle  along  with  the  butts  of  the  shafts  on  the  ground.  The 
narrowness  of  Kirkwall  street  shows  that,  when  the  town  was  built,  human  carriers,  or  horses 
with  panniers,  managed  the  goods  traffic  of  the  place.  The  carting  industry  in  Kirkwall 
undoubtedly  had  its  origin  in  the  necessity  of  getting  in  peats.  The  houses  on  the  Shore  and 
those  bordering  on  the  Peerie  Sea  were  supplied  by  boat,  but  as  the  west  side  of  the  street  got 
built  up,  the  people  on  the  east  side  required  another  mode  of  carriage.  And  the  demand 
brought  the  supply,  for,  early  in  the  present  century,  the  industry  was  so  strong  that  the 
carters  joined  and  rented  this  park.  More  interesting,  if  its  history  could  be  traced,  is  the 
fosse  which  runs  through  a  part  of  the  field.  Peterkin,  quoting  Burnet,  says  "  fortifications 
were  reared  on  the  east  side  of  the  Cathedral." 

Between  the  Burgh  School  and  the  U.P.  Church  is  a  row  of  houses  built  by  Miss  Kelly, 
sister-in-law  of  Provost  Samuel  Laing.  This  lady  thought,  rightly  or  wrongly,  that  in  Kirkwall 
there  was  not  a  sufficiency  of  comfortable  house  accommodation  for  artisans,  and  she  erected 
these  to  supply  the  want.  Probably  there  was  a  free  grant  of  the  site  from  the  liberal 
proprietor,  as  these  houses  pay  no  feu-duty. 

Between  the  U.P.  Church  and  Gallowha'  we  have  Dundas  Crescent,  in  which  the  only 
house  of  public  interest  is  St.  Olaf's  Scottish  Episcopal  Church. 

Above  the  U.P.  Church  there  was  no  dwelling-house  on  the  Pabdale  property  till  1829, 
when  the  cottage  known  as  Gallowha'  was  built  opposite  the  head  of  Clay  Loan.  When  Mr 
Laing's  property  came  into  the  market,  the  history  of  Gallowha*  was  given  in  the  articles  of 
sale  : — 

*'£ffie  Johnstone,  residing  at  Gallowhall,  aged  41,  depones  That  she  is  the  widow  of  George 
Eunson  ;  produces  missive  lease  or  grant  of  the  cottage  of  Gallowhall  in  favour  of  her  mother,  Mrs 
Mary  Petrie  or  Johnstone,  and  of  herself,  for  the  term  of  their  natural  lives,  and  to  the  survivor  of 
them,  for  the  yearly  payment  of  two  poultry  at  the  term  of  Whitsunday  each  year ;  that  the  said 
letter  is  granted  in  consideration  of  her  father  having  built  the  cottage  aforesaid  at  his  own  expense, 
and  is  dated  SOth  March  1829  ;  that  they  have  paid  the  two  poultry  whenever  demanded,  but  that 
thev  have  not  been  asked  for  or  delivered  for  some  years  back  ;  that  they  are  worth  about  eightpenoe 
each,  and  that  they  are  quite  willing  and  ready  to  pay  them." 

On  another  page  of  the  same  document,  Effie  Johnstone  is  mentioned  as  an  old  servant  of 
the  family,  and  from  the  above  it  might  be  inferred  that  so  also  had  been  her  mother,  Mary 
Petrie  or  Johnstone. 


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CHAPTER  XXV. 

Trades'  Park. 

JEYOND  Pabdale,  and  about  a  mile  south-west  from  the  town,  is  the  Trades'  Park,  & 
^    parcel  of  land  eighty  acres  in  extent,  which,  in  1829,  the  Incorporated  Trades  of 

Kirkwall  feaed  from  the  Town  Council. 
Trades'  Corporations  are  very  old,  and  their  origin  and  purpose  are  shown  in  an  Act  of 
the  second  Parliament  of  James  I.,  1424  \—^  Item,  it  is  ordained  that  in  iike  Towne  of  the 
Realme,  of  ilk  sindrie  Craft  used  therein,  be  chosen  a  wise  man  of  that  craft,  and  be  consent 
of  the  Officiar  of  the  Towne  the  quhilk  sail  be  halden  Deakon  or  Maister-man  over  the  laife 
for  the  time,  to  govern  and  assay  all  warkes  that  beis  maid  be  the  Craftes-men  of  that  craft ;, 
Swa  that  the  Eingis  Lieges  be  not  defrauded  and  skaithed  in  time  to  cum,  as  they  have  been 
in  time  by-gane,  throw  untrew  men  of  the  Craf  tes."  If  James  I.  called  the  Trades*  Corporations 
into  existence,  his  grandson  raised  them  to  dignity.  For  an  extraordinary  favour  done  to 
James  III.  by  the  burgesses  of  Edinburgh,  through  their  Provost,  William  Bertraham,  the 
King  not  only  granted  the  city  its  "  Golden  Charter,"  but  gave  to  the  craftsmen  a  banner  said 
to  have  been  made  by  the  Queen  and  her  ladies.  This  flag,  known  as  the  ''  Blue  Blanket,"  is 
still  preserved.  It  was  entrusted  to  the  keeping  of  the  Hammermen,  and  was  borne  at  the 
head  of  the  Burgher-guard.  It  floated  over  the  Trades  contingent  at  the  Battle  of  Flodden, 
and  is  the  standard  referred  to  in  Aytoun's  stirring  poem  as  borne  from  that  fatal  field  after 
having  shrouded  the  lifeless  body  of  the  King  : — 

"  Never  yet  was  royal  banner 
Steepea  in  such  a  costly  dye, 
It  hath  lain  upon  a  bosom 
Where  no  other  shroud  shall  lie. 
Sirs,  I  charge  you,  keep  it  holy, 
Keep  it  as  a  sacred  thing, 
For  the  stain  ye  see  upon  it 
Was  the  life  blood  of  your  King." 

When  James  I.  insisted  that  *'  in  ilk  sindrie  Craft  be  chosen  a  wise  man  to  governe  and 
assay  all  warkes  that  beis  made  be  the  Craftesmen  of  that  craft,  Sua  that  the  kingis  lieges  be 
not  defrauded,"  he  little  thought  that  he  was  putting  into  the  hands  of  the  sindrie  crafts  a 
power  by  which  the  King's  lieges  could  be  the  more  easily  defrauded.  Neither  did  he  foresee 
that  he  was  organising  a  force  which,  in  days  to  come,  would  curb  the  power  of  the  nobles, 
and  even  resist  the  despotism  of  the  monarch.  The  luckless  hero  of  Flodden  early  in  his 
reign  became  alive  to  the  abuse  of  privilege  in  the  hands  of  the  Trades'  Corporations,  and  tried 
to  suppress  them.  But,  powerful  and  popular  as  he  was,  he  felt  that  he  must  approach  the 
work  gingerly.    He  proposed  to  abolish  the  Deacons  for  one  year,  thinking  probably  that  if  he 


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404  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

could  insert  the  thin  end  of  the  wedge/he  would  by  and  by  be  able  to  drive  it  home.  To  a 
certain  extent  he  carried  the  people  with  him,  as  they  had  abundant  experience  of  the 
tyranny  of  the  Unions.  Under  Romish  rule,  the  Church  had  established  many  holidays,  and 
some  of  the  Crafts,  notably  the  wrights  and  masons,  insisted  that  while  engaged  on  a  job  they 
should  not  only  have  their  holiday  like  other  people,  but  that  they  should  have  for  it  a 
working  day's  pay.  Again,  a  rule  of  all  the  trades,  very  vexatious  in  its  operation,  was  that 
when  one  man  began  a  piece  of  work  no  other  tradesman  could  be  called  in  to  continue  or 
finish  it.  In  any  difference  of  opinion  between  householder  and  artisan,  this  gave  the  latter 
the  entire  command  of  the  situation.    Hence  the  Act  of  1491  :— 

"  Because  it  is  clearly  understandin  to  the  Kingis  Hienesse  and  his  three  Estaites  that  the  using 
of  Deakons  of  men  of  Crafte  in  Burrows  is  richt  £uigerous,  and  as  they  use  the  samin  may  be  the 
cause  of  great  trouble  in  Burrowes,  and  convocation  and  rising  of  the  Kingis  lieges,  be  statutes  making 
contrair  the  commoun  profite,  and  for  their  singular  profite  and  availe,  quhilk  servis  great  punition, 
and  als  belans  and  Maisons  and  uther  men  of  Craft  that  convenis  toffidder  and  makis  rule  of  their 
Craft,  sik  as  Maisons  and  wrichts  and  uthers,  that  they  sal  have  their  fee  alsweil  on  the  Halie  day  as 
for  the  wark  day,  or  else  they  sal  not  woorke  :  And  als  quhat  person  of  them  that  wald  begin  ane 
uther  mannis  warke,  and  he  at  his  pleasure  will  leave  the  said  warke,  and  then  nane  of  the  said  Crafte 
dare  not  compleit  or  fulfil  the  samin  warke  :  It  is  herefore  advised,  statute,  and  ordained  that  all  sik 
Deakons  sal  cease  for  ane  yeir  and  have  nane  uther  power  bot  allanerly  to  examine  the  finenes  of  the 
atufife  and  warke  that  beis  wrocht  by  the  remanent  of  his  Craft :  And  als  belangand  Maisons, 
Wrichts,  and  uther  men  of  Craft  that  statutes  that  thev  sail  have  fee  alsweill  for  the  halie  daie  as  for 
the  wark  day :  That  all  the  makers  and  users  of  the  said  statutes  sail  be  indicted  as  commoun 
oppresBours  of  the  King's  lieges  be  their  statutes,  and  that  the  Clerke  of  the  Justiciarie  sail  take 
dittay  there-upon,  and  they  to  be  punished  as  oppressoures  :  And  in  likewise  of  the  makers  of  the 
statutes  that  quhair  ony  beginnis  ane  mannis  warke  ane  uther  sail  not  ende  it,  that  all  the  makers  and 
users  thereof  sail  be  punish^  as  oppressoures  of  the  Kingis  lieges  and  dittay  to  be  taken  thereupon." 

James  VI.  had  no  favour  for  the  incorporated  trades,  nor  did  he  regard  their  banner  as  a 
**  sacred  thing."  On  the  contrary,  he  looked  upon  it  as  the  rallying  point  of  sedition  and  a 
symbol  of  popular  opposition  to  the  divine  right  of  kings.  "  The  Craftsmen  think  we  should 
be  content  with  their  work  how  bad  soever  it  be  ;  and  if  in  anything  they  be  controuled,  up 
goes  the  *  Blue  Blanket.'  "  From  1424,  however,  till  1846,  the  Trades'  Incorporations  retained 
some  of  their  peculiar  privileges. 

The  Incorporated  Trades  of  Kirkwall  were  the  hammermen,  the  cordiners  or  shoemakers, 
the  tailors,  and  the  weavers,  the  chief  officials  of  each  being  the  Deacon,  and  the  Boxmaster  or 
Treasurer.  Each  trade  had  its  own  funds  and  its  separate  interests,  and  there  is  no  evidence 
of  their  ever  having  had  a  common  property,  not  even  a  hall,  till,  in  1829,  they  took  the  above- 
named  feu  from  the  Burgh.  They  divided  their  property  into  halves,  and  erected  buildings 
suitable  for  the  working  of  two  forty-acre  farms.  They  soon  discovered  that  they  had  made 
an  investment  which  gave  more  trouble  than  profit.  There  was  some  expense  in  the  manage- 
ment. "There  was  handed  in  an  account  from  Deacon  MTherson  of  Two  Pounds  six 
shillings  Sterling  for  superintending  the  works  of  the  Trades'  park,  also  an  account  of  seven 
shillings  and  sixpence  each  from  William  Corston  and  Magnus  Kendall  for  dividing  said 
Park."  But  Deacon  MTherson  had  received  from  James  Kelday,  one  of  the  tenants,  *'  three 
pounds  Sterling  to  account  of  his  rent,  and  it  being  inconvenient  for  him  to  pay  said  sum  this 
evening.  Promises  to  pay  fourteen  shillings  in  the  course  of  the  week,  which,  with  his  account 
of  Two  Pounds  six  shillings,  will  meet  the  sum  received  by  him."  The  tenants  were  constantly 
in  arrears.  When  the  manager  appointed  by  the  joint-committee,  at  a  salary  of  one  pound  per 
annum,  was  able  to  report  that  he  had  got  as  much  as  £3  of  rent,  he  had  also  to  complain  that 
there  was  from  £6  to  £12  resting  owing  ;  but,  indeed,  the  difficulty  was  to  get  any  rent  at  alL 

Again,  this  common  property  led  to  dissensions  among  the  crafts :— "  Kirkwall,  13th 


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trades'  park.  405 

February  1833.->The  Committee  of  the  Four  Incorporations  for  the  Management  of  Trades' 
Park  met  this  evening  in  consequence  of  a  letter  to  the  President  of  last  meeting  from  the 
Incorporation  of  Hammermen,  complaining  of  injustice  having  been  done  to  said  Incorpo- 
ration in  the  division  of  rents  of  Trades'  Park/'  In  consequence  of  this,  when  the  accounts 
were  sent  in  for  '*  Building,  etc.,  in  Tnides'  Park,"  amounting  to  £14  5s  2id  per  trade,  the 
Hammermen  refused  to  pay  their  share.  Accordingly,  it  was  "  Resolved  that  this  committee 
write  the  Incorporation  of  Hammermen,  requesting  them  to  pay  said  sum  to  Mr  A.  Yorston, 
failing  which  the  general  committee  must  resort  to  means  (although  unpleasant)  to  secure  said 
Bum." 

There  had  been  some  laxity  in  the  drawing  of  the  feu-charter,  and  it  came  as  a  surprise 
when  "  it  was  reported  to  the  meeting  that  Mr  Bain,  Town's  Treasurer,  had  a  charge  against 
the  Incorporations,  amounting  to  £21  14s,  for  feu-duties,  whilst  the  Incorporations  consider 
that,  in  Terms  of  the  Qrant  made  by  the  Town  Council  in  1829,  The  Trades  are  only  due  16/." 
Deacons  MTherson  and  Walls  were  deputed  to  wait  upon  the  Council,  and  their  mission  was 
successful,  for,  on  3rd  Dec.  1834,  "  James  Walls  was  appointed  to  pay  Mr  Bain  the  sum  of  16/, 
being  the  amount  due  by  the  Incorporations  till  Martinmas  1834,  and  take  his  receipt  for  the 
same." 

With  these  and  such  like  little  vexations  constantly  cropping  up,  it  is  not  surprising  that 
the  Trades  resolved  to  sell,  neither  is  it  astonishing  that  even  in  this  they  were  not  immedi- 
ately successful.  At  the  general  committee,  in  December  1839,  *'  James  Walls  reported  to  the 
meeting  that  he  had  neglected  to  charge  the  Incorporations  the  sum  of  15/,  being  amount  of 
Mr  Patton's  account  for  trying  to  effect  a  sale  of  the  property,  and  which  sum  was  arrested  in 
his  hands  by  Mr  Qeorge  M*Beath."  Ten  years  later  the  Incorporated  Trades  ceased  to  be 
landed  proprietors  and  ceased  to  exist : — 

"  Kirkwall,  2nd  January  1849. — A  Meeting  of  the  Committee  of  the  Trades*  Incorporations  was 
held  this  Evening.  Present,"  etc. — *'  Mr  Groundwater  in  the  Chair.  The  Meeting,  takius  into  con- 
sideration the  peculiar  circumstances  in  which  they  are  placed  relative  to  the  Trades*  Park,  in 
consequence  of  their  peculiar  privileges  being  abolished  by  Act  of  Parliament — Findine  that  they  are 
now  useful  to  each  other  only  as  a  Benevolent  Society,  and  that  their  interests  would  be  much  better 
effected  by  a  Sale  of  the  Park,  making  the  proceeds  available  to  each  Incorporation  respectively — 
Direct  that  the  Deacon  of  each  Incorporation  submit  the  matter  to  their  respective  constituents  and 
obtain  their  consent  to  an  application  to  the  Town  Council  to  sell  theproperty,  and  as  soon  as  their 
respective  consents  are  obtamed,  this  meeting  appoint  Messrs  Jas.  Walls  and  John  Bruce  to  carry 
the  matter  into  effect  in  the  best  and  most  speedy  way  they  can.'* 

The  Act  referred  to  was  passed  14th  May  1846,  and  is  entitled  :— "  An  Act  for  the  Aboli- 
tion of  the  Exclusive  Privilege  of  Trading  in  Burghs  "  :— 

*' Whereas,  in  certain  Royal  and  other  Burghs  in  Scotland,  the  Members  of  certain  Guilds, 
Grafts,  or  Incorporations  possess  exclusive  Privileges  of  carrying  on  or  dealing  in  Merchandize,  and  of 
carrying  on  or  exercising  certain  Trades  or  Handicrafts  within  their  respective  Burghs,  and  such 
Guilds,  Crafts,  or  Incorporations  have  corresponding  Rights  entitling  them  to  prevent  Persons  not 
being  Members  thereof  from  carrying  on  or  dealing  in  Merchandize,  or  from  carrying  on  or  exercising 
snoh  Trades  or  Handicrafts  within  such  Burghs  ;  And  whereas  it  has  become  exj^ient  that  such 
exclusive  Privileges  and  Rights  should  be  abolished,  Be  it  therefore  enacted  that  from  this  date  they 
be  abolished.*' 

On  the  10th  December  1849,  the  Committee  of  Management  held  their  last  meeting,  when 

"  Messrs  Bruce  and  Walls  reported  that,  in  terms  of  Instructions  contained  in  Minute  of  2nd 
January,  they  had  obtained  the  Consent  of  the  Town  Council  for  the  disposal  of  the  Trades'  Park, 
That  they  had  employed  Robert  Urquhart,  Esq.,  to  conduct  the  sale,  and  that  said  property  was  sold 
for  Three  Hundred  and  Ten  Pounds.^' 


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406  KIRKWALL  IN  T9£  ORKNETS. 

In  dissolving  a  parternership  older  than  our  local  records  trace,  and  which  for  centuries 
had  taken  a  prominent  part  in  the  public  work  of  the  Burgh,  the  Trades'  Corporations 
balanced  their  books,  and  found  that  they  had  for  division  the  sum  of  £303  16s,  "  Which  sum, 
being  divided  in  Four  shares,  is  the  Amount  of  Seventy-Five  Pounds  Nineteen  Shillings  to 
each  of  the  Four  Incorporations  " : — 

"The  Meetinfi;  having  fully  understood  from  the  respective  Deacons  that  ea^h  Incorporation 
wished  the  disposal  and  Management  of  their  respective  shares  of  the  Foregoing  Sum,  agreed  unani- 
moasly  that  the  sum  of  Seventy-Five  Pounds  Nineteen  Shillings  be  paid  to  the  Deacon  and  Boxmaster 
of  each  Incorporation  present,  and  resolved  that  each  Box  Master  and  Deacon  shall  sign  this  Minute 
as  acknowledging  receipt  of  the  same,  James  Walls  and  James  Craigie  to  sign  as  Witnesses.  The 
Meeting  further  agreed  that  this  Minute  Book  and  the  various  Papers  connected  with  the  conjunct 
Committee  shall  rest  into  the  hands  of  Mr  James  Craigie  for  inspection  and  preservation. 

Hammermen — David  Spenck,  Boxmaster. 

\xr^xr^^         S  John  Groundwateb,  Decon. 

weavers  j  Robeet  Millar,  Box  Master. 

Shoemakers       T«^^^  Slatteb,  Decon^; 


James  Walls,  Witness. 
James  Craigie,  Witness.' 


)  Malcolm  Heddlb,  Box  Master. 
Toi'irvm  J  James  Lease,  Deacon, 

lauors  j  Akdw.  Guthrie,  Box  Master. 


The  Deacon  of  the  Hammermen,  who  was  present  at  the  meeting,  but  who,  for  some 
reason  unrecorded,  did  not  sign,  was  John  Bruce.  Perhaps  his  duties  as  jailer  may  have 
taken  him  away  before  the  close  of  the  proceedings.  The  minute-book  still  rests  in  the  hands 
of  Mr  Oraigie's  family.* 

The  "  Blue  Blanket "  of  the  Kirkwall  Trades — the  flag  of  the  Hammermen — is  now  pre- 
served in  the  Masonic  Hall  in  the  keeping  of  Lodge  Kirkwall  Kilwinning. 

It  is  noteworthy  that  the  Tailors  were  the  only  craftsmen  who  showed  any  symptom  of 
incorporate  piety.  They  occupied  the  uppermost  seats  in  the  synagogue,  having  a  portion  of 
the  Cathedral  stalls  set  apart  for  their  use.t  "  Whilk  dayt  compeared  John  Chalmer,  Deacon 
of  the  taylors,  and  with  him  Nicol  ewenson,  boxemaster,  for  themselves,  and  in  name  and 
behalf  of  ther  whole  trade,  gave  in  ane  petitioun  desyring  that,  according  to  the  laudable 
Custome  of  other  royall  Burroughs  within  the  kingdome,  they  might  be  accommodate  with 
ane  convenient  place  within  the  Cathedral  to  sitt  in  decencie  and  order  to  hear  God's  word.** 
"  Which  desyre  My  lord  bishop,  minister  and  eldars  present,  thought  reasonable,'*  and  they 
were  permitted  "  to  enter  to  the  peacable  possession  of  ane  part  of  the  Stalls  on  the  south  Syd 
containing  five  chairs  rowme,  with  power  to  them  to  putt  in  ane  middle  division,  with  two 
leaning  boards,  with  ane  Doore  having  lock  and  keey,  without  altering,  defacing,  or  demolish- 
ing any  of  the  old  work  of  the  said  Stalls."  For  this  they  had  to  pay  ten  shillings  sterling 
yearly,  and  yearly  they  required  to  be  dunned  for  payment. 

On  the  other  hand,  against  the  Shoemakers  must  be  recorded  a  most  godless  act  perpe- 
trated by  them  as  a  body.  It  would  seem  that  the  men  of  this  craft  on  emergencies  required 
to  tan  their  own  hides,  and  finding  that  a  merchant  in  town  had  a  quantity  of  bark,  they 
lifted  it  off  the  street  and  used  it  for  their  own  purposes.  The  complaint  was  brought  before 
Provost  John  Covingtrie  and  the  Council,  the  four  Deacons  being  present  :— 

**  The  which  day,§  It  being  Represented  by  Robert  Kaa,  Mercht.,  yt.  sometime  ago  the  Cordiners 
in  Kirkwall  had  at  their  own  hands  taken  and  Spuilzied  from  him  of  the  Comon  Street  a  Certain 
Quantity  of  Bark,  and  that  after  all  the  Endeavours  of  a  friendly  acomodation  betwt.  him  and  them 

•  The  minute-book,  kindly  lent  by  Mr  W.  W.  Craigie. 
t  S.  R.,  4th  Feb.  1689.        J  S.  R.,  Monday,  6th  April  1675.        §  14th  March  1724. 


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trades'  park.  407 

thereanent,  They  still  stood  oat,  and  th&t  at  last  he  was  obleidged  to  send  South  for  dilligence  in 
order  to  proeecnte  them  therefore  before  the  Lords  of  Session,  which  was  accordingly  Execute  i^ 
them ;  But  that,  at  the  earnest  desire  of  the  Magistrates  Some  few  days  agoe,  he,  at  a  Comounmg 
with  the  saids  Gordiners,  did  Condescend  to  drope  the  said  prosecution  upon  paymt.  of  the  then 
acreed  price  of  the  Bark  and  other  necessary  Charges  in  raising  and  Executing  the  said  dilligence, 
wEiich  he  now  in  Councill  promises  to  performe  and  Stand  to  upon  the  paying  the  price  of  the  Bark 
and  other  Charges,  and  begging  pardone  of  the  Magistrates  for  so  high  a  Transgression  and  of  the 
said  Robt.  Eaa,  for  their  putting  him  to  so  much  Trouble  thereanent,  which  patk.  Irving,  deacon,  for 
himself  and  his  Trade,  did  doe,  and  payed  the  price  of  the  Bark,  and  band,  obliged,  and  Enacted  him- 
self, for  and  in  name  of  the  haill  other  Shoemakers  in  his  Trade,  never  to  be  guilty  of  the  like  in  all 
Time  Coming,  under  the  Sevearest  penalties  that  the  Magistrates  shall  think  ntt  to  inflict ;  and 
Arthur  Murray,  Cordinar,  and  John  Tait,  two  of  the  Trade,  have  hereby  become  bound  to  the  said 
Robert  Kaa  for  pavmt.  of  his  Charges.  Signed,  in  name,  presence,  and  at  appoyntmt.  of  the  magis- 
trates and  Council!,  by  the  Provost,  and  by  the  said  patrick  Irving  in  respect  of  his  Enactmt." 

Inverness  was  the  market  at  which  bark  was  purchased.  In  the  "  Pundlar  Process," 
"Andrew  Seatter  of  Cottascarth  Depones  That  when  he  bought  Bark  at  Inverness,  and 
brought  it  to  Orkney^  he  sold  it  at  Kirkwall  upon  Pundlars  there  used,  and  that  he  never 
weighed  said  Bark  upon  his  own  Pundlar  at  home,  as  he  sold  it  always  at  Kirkwall." 

At  the  Council  Board  the  presence  of  the  Deacons  was  sometimes  turned  to  useful 
account  by  the  Magistrates  in  securing  prompt  attention  to  a  business  order  : — 

**  The  Said  Day,*  in  p*nce  of  the  Magistrats  and  Councill,  there  was  given  in  by  the  Clerk  ane 
Extract  under  the  hands  of  Charles  Stewart,  Stewart  Clerk  of  Orkney,  Given  into  him  of  the  Sentence 
of  Death  pronounced  by  Mr  John  Hay  of  Balbithan,  Justiciar  Depute  of  Crkney  and  Zetland,  a^. 
Marjorie  Mcason,  Late  Servitrix  to  James  Meason  in  fflustigar,  in  the  Island  of  Shapinshay,  By  which 
Sentence  the  said  Marjorie  Meason  is  decerned  and  adjudged  to  be  taken  from  the  Tolbooth  of  Kirk- 
wall, upon  Wednesday  the  fourth  day  of  December  Nixt  to  come,  to  the  Loan  commonly  called 
Kirkwall  Loan,  or  the  Common  place  of  Execution,  and  there,  Betwixt  the  hours  of  Two  and  four  by 
the  Cloack  in  the  afternoon  the  sd.  day,  to  be  hanged  by  the  Neck  upon  a  Gibbet  until  she  be 
Dead.  .  .  .  The  Magistrats  and  Councill  did  call  and  Conveen  before  them  Thomas  ffoubister. 
Deacon  of  the  Wrights,  and  appoynted  him,  with  the  Rest  of  the  Trade,  To  be  p*nt  firiday  nixt, 
being  the  Twenty-Nynth  Instant,  at  Nine  of  the  Cloack  in  the  forenoon,  with  their  Instruments,  att 
the  Common  place  of  Execution,  and  there  to  make  and  Erect  Ane  Sufficient  Gibbet,  with  all  necessars 
belonging  yrto,  such  as  Timber,  Iron,  etc.,  and  to  have  the  said  Gibbet  fixt  betwixt  and  the 
Second  day  of  December  nixt,  at  four  of  the  Cloack  in  the  Afternoon,  ilk  ane  of  the  sd.  Trade,  under 
the  pain  of  Ten  pound  Scots.  Before  which  Execution  the  Magistrats  and  Council  is  to  meet  at  the 
Tolbooth,  from  whence  they  are  to  be  Accompanied  wt.  Twenty-ffour  Sufficient  Armed  Men  to  the 
place  of  Exectution." 

In  former  times  the  bulk  of  the  Council  was  generally  composed  of  the  wealthiest  people 
in  the  town,  but  the  four  Deacons  represented  the  artisans,  and  they  made  it  their  duty  to 
attend  to  the  interests  of  the  poorer  classes  of  the  community  : — 

'*  The  Said  Day  it  was  represented  to  the  Magistrats  and  Councill  that  the  Trades  and  Inhabitants 
would  in  all  probaoility  need  to  be  supplyed  with  Victuall  this  year,  and  the  Deacons  p'nt  in  Councill 
Requested  the  Magistrats  and  Councill  that  they  would  fall  on  propper  means  for  Supply  of  their 
Trades  and  Inhabitants  :  The  Magistrats  and  Councill,  takins  the  same  to  their  Consideration,  They 
Recommend  to  Donahl  Groat,  Mercht.,  and  p'nt  Dean-of -Guild  of  Kirkwall,  to  buy  ffifty  Meills  of  Oat 
Meal  and  Two  Chalders  of  Bear  alse  Reasonably  as  he  can  (The  Saids  Deacons,  representing  the  said 
quantity  they  would  absolutely  need,  were  most  willing  to  Accept  of  and  make  payment  therefor), 
and  in  Regard  the  Deacons  were  not  in  Condition  to  Advance  Ready  money,  and  that  the  said  Victuall 
could  not  be  had  wt.  out  Ready  Advance  :  Therefore  the  Magistrats  and  Councill  do  unanimously 
Agree  that  the  Toun*s  Charter  Chist  be  opened  And  Three  hundred  pound  Scots  taken  out  and  de- 
livered to  the  said  Donald  Groat,  he  being  Obleidged  to  buy  the  said  Victuall  in  due  time,  and  deliver 
the  same  to  the  Deacons,  and  take  their  Security  for  payt.  of  the  same." 

•  7th  Nov.  1728. 


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408  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

The  Deacon  of  the  Hammermen  had  charge  of  the  standard  weights,  and  held  the 
monopoly  of  the  manufacture  of  pundlars  and  bismars  in  Kirkwall : — 

"The  said  day,*  the  Magistrate  and  Councill  appoynt  the  haill  Weishta  for  justinff  of  Pundlers 
and  Bismers,  formerly  in  the  Custody  of  the  deceast  Thomas  ffoubister,  Teat  Deacon  ofthe  Wrights 
and  Hammermen  of  the  Burgh,  to  be,  at  sight  of  the  Dean-of-Goild  and  Clerk,  delivered  to  Thomas 
Aiticen,  p'nt  Deacon  of  the  sds.  Wrights  and  Hammermen,  and  hereby  Impower  him  to  make  and 
ajast  pundlers  and  Bismers  wtln.  this  Burgh,  as  former  Deacons  have  been  in  use  to  doe,  And  to 
Receive  from  the  said  Deacon  a  Recept  for  the  sds.  weights  for  Brcdelivery,  Which  Recent  is  to  he 
Lodged  in  the  Clerk's  hands,  And  Recommends  to  the  sd.  Deacon  to  be  Careful!  and  faithful  in  that 
office,  like  as  he  has  Instantly  given  his  oath  de  fideli  adminiatrcUione." 

**  The  weightst  used  in  this  Country,  and  also  the  instruments  used  in  weighing  (the  PuTidaVf  to 
wit)  and  the  Bysmar,  are  derived  from  Norway,  the  Mother  Country." 

**  In  Norway t  from  whence  these  weights  are  derived,  the  Root  and  Standart  of  all  Weight  is 
the  Mark,  which,  in  like  manner,  is  the  Root  and  Standart  of  all  Weight  in  these  Islands  also,  oeing 
here  the  first  and  smallest  Weight  of  the  Bysmar,  as  in  Norway. 

**  The  just  Measure  and  Standart  of  the  Mark  being  eight  Ounces  and  no  more,  the  just  Measure 
and  Standart  of  the  SeUeeii,  Pund  or  Liapund,  and  also  of  the  Meil  and  of  the  last,  follows  of  course, 
being  all  Multiples  of  the  Mark.  Thus  is  the  Standart  of  the  SetUen,  Pund  or  Liapund,  twelve  libs, 
and  no  more,  consisting  of  twenty-four  Marks  of  Half  a  Pound  each  ;  the  Standart  of  the  Malt-pundar 
Meil  consisting  of  six  of  these  Setteena,  seventy-two  libs,  and  no  more  ;  and  the  Standart  of  the  Malt- 
pundar  Last  consisting  of  twenty-four  of  these  Metis,  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty-eight 
libs,  and  no  more." 

The  first  deliberate  tampering  with  these  weights  was  in  the  time  of  Robert  Stewart,  Earl 
of  Orkney.  His  superior  duties  were  fixed,  and  were  paid  in  kind,  and  could  not  easily  be 
altered,  but  he  found  it  a  simple  process  to  increase  the  weight  at  the  Gimell-house.  So  the 
setteen,  or  lispund,  which  had  been  twelve  pounds,  was  at  once  advanced  to  fifteen  pounds, 
and  by  this  means  the  earldom  was  increased  in  value  to  its  owner,  by  twenty-five  per  cent. 
Earl  Patrick  succeeded  in  1591,  and  was  a  son  worthy  of  such  a  father.  He  added  one-fifth 
to  the  enlarged  lispund,  bringing  it  up  to  eighteen  pounds.  Thus,  under  these  two  autocrats, 
the  earldom  revenues  were  in  two  steps  increased  one-half. 

After  Earl  Patrick's  removal,  the  Crown  rents  were  farmed  by  a  succession  of  individuals 
who  did  the  best  they  could  for  themselves.  The  first  of  them,  Sir  James  Stewart  of  Kilsyth, 
afterwards  Lord  Ochiltree,  was,  for  his  oppressions  of  the  people  by  tampering  with  the 
weights,  deprived  and  condemned  to  a  long  imprisonment.!  After  the  time  of  the  Stewart 
earls,  the  weights  seem  to  have  got  into  a  state  of  great  confusion,  and,  there  is  no  doubt,  were 
made  instruments  of  gross  injustice  to  the  people.  If  the  earls  carried  matters  with  a  high 
hand,  they  scorned  concealment,  and,  in  bold  imitation  of  them,  Robert  Elphinston  of  Lopness 
passed  an  Act,  1691,  advancing  the  lispund  to  twenty-four  pounds.  As  he  was  employed 
simply  as  a  collector  at  a  salary  of  £200,  this  was  an  attempt  to  plunder  the  people  for  his  own 
aggrandisement,  and  we  are  not  surprised  to  learn  that  "  Lopness  fled  the  Country  without 
making  any  Clearance  with  the  Crown."§  But  when  prudent  Farmers-General  chose  to  deal 
unfairly,  detection  was  difficult.  The  standards  were  stones  taken  from  the  beach,  shapeless, 
and  easily  substituted  by  others,  so  that  each  successive  collector  of  rents  could,  without  any 
difficulty,  alter  his  weights. 

The  so-called  standards  handed  over  to  Thomas  Aitken,  Deacon  of  the  Hammermen,  in 
1730,  are  peculiar  :— 

♦  14th  March  1730.        f  Pundlar  Process.        t  Pund.  Proc.,  part  ii.,  p.  7. 
§  Robert  Elphinston  was  alive  in  Holland  in  1705.     His  wife,  Clara  Van  Overmear,  was  widow 
of  J.  Van  Zuylen ;  issue,  John,  died  unmarried  at  Rotterdam.     Favoured  by  F.  J.  Grant,  W.S., 
author  of  **  Shetland  County  Families." 


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Weights  in  Troy 
Stones.    Lib.        Oz. 

Wt. 
Dr. 

0  1  2 
0  2  6 
0  4  10 
0  8  1 
0          11            6 

8 

8 

00 

12 

00 

1  3  4 
1  12  8 
3  6  8 
3           8          11 

8 

8 

00 

8 

trades'  park.  409 

Namies  of  the  Stakdasts  OB  Materials. 

Weights. 

1  Mark  -^Boar's  Tooth 

2  Marks — A  Lead  Weight  and  Rope 

4  Marks — A  round  free  Stone  and  Rope         

7  Marks — ^A  free-Stone  Rone  and  Piece  of  loose  Lead 
9  Marks — A  Free-stone  ana  piece  of  loose  Lead 

16  Marks — ^A  Free-Stone,  Boar's  Tooth,  and  Piece  of 
loose  Lead  

1  Setteen  — A  Free-stone  and  Piece  of  Lead 

2  Setteens — A  Free-stone  and  Piece  of  Lead 

2  Setteens — A  Whin-stone  and  Boar's  Tooth 

2  Setteens— A  Whin-stone  and  Piece  of  Lead  ...  3  6  00  00 

To  call  such  things  standards  is  a  degradation  of  the  term,  and,  in  response  to  many 
appeals,  an  inquiry  was  held  in  1743,  before  the  Dean-of-Guild  and  his  Council,  when 
"  Aitken  having  made  a  full  Confession  and  Discovery,  not  only  of  the  Frauds  themselves^ 
but  of  the  Persons  by  whose  Authority  these  things  were  done,  the  Dean-of-Guild  and  his 
Council  declined  to  enter  his  Confession  upon  Record  for  Reasons  sufficiently  obvious."  The 
obvious  reason  for  refusing  to  record  this  confession  was  that  Aitken  accused  his  predecessor, 
Foubister,  of  having  added  lead  to  the  weights  at  the  order  of  James,  Earl  of  Morton.  This 
accounts  for  the  boar's  tooth  being  so  heavy.  Aitken  got  into  trouble  over  the  matter,  and> 
rightly  or  wrongly,  was  lodged  in  jail  for  his  indiscretion  : — 

"  As  to  the  Weighing  Instruments  used  in  this  Gountnr^  they  are  so  different  in  their  Form, 
Make,  and  Manner  of  Weighing  from  what  are  used  in  the  ]!sland  of  Britain^  that  it  would  not  be 
easy  to  handle  the  Subject-Matter  with  any  Degree  of  Perspecuity  without  attempting  a  Description 
of  them. 

"  These  Weighing  Lostruments  are  two — the  Bymnar,  used  for  small  Weights  of  the  Weiffht  of  a 
Lispund  and  below  ;  the  Pundlar,  for  Setteens  and  Multiples  of  Setteens ;  they  have  been  of 
immemorial  practice,  and  are  both  of  them  very  rude  and  imperfect. 

"  The  Bysmar  is  a  Beam  of  Wood  about  three  Foot  long,  whereof  a  little  more  than  the  Half  is  a 
Cylinder  about  an  inch  Diameter  or  little  more  ;  the  rest  oi  the  beam,  which  makes  the  Butt-end,  is 
also  cylindrical,  but  much  thicker  than  the  other,  being  about  three  inches  Diameter.  In  the  small 
End  there  is  an  Iron-staple,  on  which  there  is  a  Hook  for  hanging  the  Groods  upon  that  are  to  be 
weighed.  The  small  Ena  is  all  along  marked  with  Iron-studs  at  unequal  Distances;  these  Studs 
correspond  to,  and  exhibit,  the  Weight  of  Commodities  from  one  Mark  to  twenty-four  Marks,  or  » 
Lispund.  When  the  Material  to  be  weighed  is  hung  upon  the  Hook,  the  Bysmar  is  horizontally 
suspended  by  a  Cord*  going  round  it.  The  Weigher  shifto  the  Cord  until  the  Material  weighed 
equiponderates  with  the  gross  End  of  the  Bysmar.  When  the  Instrument  is  thus  brought  to  an 
£quuibrinm  the  Cord  points  out  the  Stud  which  is  nearest  to  it,  which  shows  the  Weight  of  the 
Commodity  in  Marks.  It  is  easy  for  the  Weigher,  by  slipping  the  Cord  a  very  little  to  one  Side,  to 
alter  the  Weight." 

Besides  the  ordinary  instrument,  there  was  in  use  the  small  Bysmar.  Deacon  Aitken 
^  depones  That  in  all  his  Time  these  small  Bysmars  are  used  by  the  Country  People  in  weighing 
their  Yarn  unto  the  Dyers  of  Kirhwally  That  he  never  had  any  authority  from  the  Magistrates 
of  Kirkwall,  or  any  body  else,  for  making  these  small  Bysmars,  for  it  was  not  worth  their 
while."  The  same  evidence  shows  that  the  small  bysmars  were  graduated  for  English  weight 
"  John  Erskine,  Tacksman  of  Nether  Scapa,  depones  that  he  has  given  out,  upon  said  Bysmar^ 
Lint  to  spin  for  several  years,  the  length  of  or  not  exceeding  twelve  pounds  at  a  time,  and  the 
common  Quantities  he  generally  gave  out  were  from  two  to  twelve  pounds  EnglUh ;  but  has 
heard  his  sister  say  that  she  did  not  choose  to  buy  on  said  Bysmary  because  it  was  lighter  by 
four  Marks  upon  the  Lispund  than  other  Bysmars/* 

*  Locally  called  the  Snarle. 

30 


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410  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

'*  The  other  Instrument^  the  Pujidlar,  is  a  Beam  of  about  six  Feet  long,  about  three  inches 
Diameter  at  one  End,  and  tapering  gradually ;  a  Hook  is  fixed  to  the  greater  End  for  suspending 
what  is  to  be  weighed  upon  it  as  in  the  Bymnar ;  about  six  inches  from  that  End  the  Tongue  ana 
Shears  are  fixed  by  a  2Staple,  and  at  the  upper  End  of  the  Shears  there  is  a  large  Iron-ring  throuffh 
which  a  Cross-beam  is  put  for  suspending  the  Machine  in  weighing  ;  and  this  Cross-beam  is  generaUy 
supported  by  two  Men  on  their  Shoulders.  The  PuncUar  is  marked  with  notches  at  proper  Distances 
corresponding  to  and  exhibiting  the  Weight  of  the  Commodities  weighed,  from  three  Setteens  upwards 
to  ten,  eleven,  or  twelve,  and  sometimes  more,  and  the  Weight  of  the  Commodity  is  ascertained  bv  a 
Stone  of  the  Weight  of  a  Setteen  hung  upon  the  PuncUar  by  an  Iron-jring,  which  the  Weigher  shifts 
from  Notch  to  Notch  till  the  Tongue  between  the  Shears  discovers  the  Instrument  to  be  in  cBquilibrio." 

This  instrument  is  attended  by  the  same  defects  to  which  the  Bysmar  is  liable.  '*  (George 
Traill  of  Hobbister,  Chamberlain  to  the  Earl  of  Morton  from  the  year  1712  to  the  year  1725 
indicaive,  depones  That  one  and  the  same  Person,  weighing  at  different  Times  upon  one  and 
the  same  Pundar,  may,  by  holding  the  Long-arm  of  the  Pundar  a  little  up  or  down,  make  it  to 
weigh  six  Marks  more  or  less,  which  he  has  seen  happen.  Depones  that  since  Harry  Nisbet 
has  been  Girnal- keeper  to  the  Earl  of  Morton,  he  always  weighed  justly,  and  he  believes  no 
man  can  challenge  Mr  Nisbet  for  his  Manner  of  weighing  on  these  wicked  instruments." 
Harry  himself  was  certainly  dissatisfied  with  these  "  wicked  instruments."  In  his  evidence  he 
says  that  he  "  begun  in  the  year  1734  to  retail  Meal  in  Orkney  by  Beam  and  Scale,  and  has 
frequently  done  it  since,  and  always  since  the  year  1742." 

In  1757,  the  Earl  of  Galloway,  who  had  succeeded  to  the  estates  of  Sir  James  Stewart  of 
Burray,  with  seventeen  other  landholders  in  Orkney,  raised  a  suit  against  the  Earl  of  Morton 
to  have  it  "  found  and  declared  "  that  he  should  revert  to  the  old  standards  of  Norway,  and 
that  '*  the  said  James,  Earl  of  Morton,  ought  to  be  decerned  and  ordained  to  accept  and  receive 
the  Crown  rents  and  other  duties,  according  to  the  said  fixed  Standart,  in  all  Time  coming." 

With  perhaps  one  exception,  the  pursuers  had  acquired  their  estates  after  the  standards 
had  been  permanently  raised  by  Earls  Robert  and  Patrick,  and  that  had  been  taken  into 
account  when  they  purchased.  Feeling  this  to  be  a  weak  point  in  their  case,  they  tried  to 
prove  that  the  Earls  of  Morton  had  themselves  increased  the  weights,  and  in  this  they  failed. 
This  suit,  which  is  commonly  known  as  the  "Pundlar  Process,"  is  interesting  now  as  showing 
how  rents  and  feu-duties  were  collected  in  Orkney  down  to  the  middle  of  the  last  century  :— 
**  Robert  Sclaiter,  in  Nisthouse  in  Manoickf  in  the  Parish  of  Birsay,  depones  That  he  and  his 
Neighbours  put  their  Victual  up  by  Guess  in  Casies,  when  they  pay  their  Rent,  without  either 
weighing  or  measuring  it,  But  that  they  bear  a  Guess  at  the  weight  of  the  Bear  which  they 
pat  into  each  Casie,  and  that  they  guess  as  near  as  they  can  to  put  four  Setteens*  upon  each 
Horse.  And  depones  that  when  their  Victual  is  weighed  in  the  Store-house  of  Kirkwall^  they 
sometimes  have  an  Overplus  of  six  Marks,  and  sometimes  twelve  Marks,  as  the  corn  is  well 
dressed,  upon  eich  eight  Setteen." 

Butter  rents  were  sent  in  to  the  storekeeper  in  barrels  and  half-barrels  : — "  The  King's 
Cooper  guaged  the  Cask  with  a  Chain  of  iron  put  round  the  middle  of  it  and  a  wimble  marked 
for  the  depth  of  the  Cask,  which  he  put  down  through  the  Butter  to  the  Bottom  of  the  Cask, 
and  if  the  Wimble  was  quite  full  when  taken  up,  the  cask  was  held  to  be  sufficiently  filled. 
Depones  that  he  thinks  it  was  about  the  year  1730  that  a  new  Custom  of  weighing  the  Casks 
of  Butter  in  the  Earl  of  Morton^s  Store-house  was  introduced,  but  for  what  cause  he  does  not 
know  or  remember  to  have  heard  told." 

^  William  Scart^  Cooper  in  Kirkwall,  Depones  That  about  eighteen  years  ago,  but  not 
positive  as  to  the  year,  but  is  positive  that  it  was  while  George  Liddel  was  Gimel-keeper  to 
the  Earl,  a  new  Method  was  taken,  which  was  to  weigh  the  Barrels  when  paid  in  ;  if  a  Half- 

*  Slightly  over  one  owt. 


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TRADES*  PARK.  411 

barrel  weighed  anything  above  an  hundred  Pound,  which  was  understood  to  be  the  true  Quage 
of  it,  the  Payer  got  the  Overplus  delivered  back  to  him  ;  and  if  it  weighed  less  than  an 
hundred  Weight,  the  Payer  was  obliged  to  make  it  up." 

The  butter  was  peculiar  \—^^  James  GrimhUter^  Cooper  in  Kirkwall,  depones  that  he  has 
had  Occasion  sometimes  to  see  the  Butter  which  was  paid  into  the  Earl  of  Morton^s  Store- 
house and  the  Bishop's  Store-house  ;  that  the  Butter  delivered  was  frequently  very  bad,  being 
mixed  with  some  very  bad  Stuff,  and  Layers  of  dry  Salt  lying  through  it  on  purpose  to 
increase  the  Weight ;  a  Half- barrel  would  not  hold  an  hundred  Pound  weight  of  it,  because 
the  same  was  hoved  up  with  Whey  and  Trash." 

When  this  filthy  compound  was  shipped  south,  it  sold  not  as  butter,  but  as  grease.  The 
barrel  is  still  used  in  Orkney  in  the  sale  of  such  commodities  as  coals  and  potatoes,  and 
the  weight  is  definitely  fixed.  A  barrel  of  coals  is  the  tenth  part  of  a  ton,  and  of  potatoes 
187  lbs.  But,  in  1763,  "  Thomaa  Balfour,  Brother-German  to  William  Balfour  of  Trenahy^ 
depones  That  they  take  any  Cask  that  goes  under  the  Name  of  the  Barrel,  sometimes  Tar- 
barrels,  sometimes  Salt- Barrels,  sometimes  Herring-barrels,  and  that  these  Casks  or  Barrels 
differ  considerably  one  from  another." 

But  the  standard  was  the  Norway  beer-barrel.  The  local  name  for  this  barrel  was  the 
Beer-tree,  and  the  capacity  of  a  cask  was  its  "  Bind."  The  hind  of  the  barrel  was  the  term  in 
general  use.  In  the  reign  of  James  III.,  1487,  *'  It  is  statute  and  ordained  by  the  three  Estaites 
in  this  Parliament  that  the  barrel  binde  of  SaJmond  suld  keipe  and  conteine  the  measure  of 
fourtene  Gallones."  Again,  James  IV.,  1493,  "  It  is  ordained  that  the  auld  statute  maid  anent 
the  barrelling  of  Salmonde  of  the  auld  bind  of  Aberdene  be  observed  and  keiped."  To  show 
that  a  Tree  and  barrel  were  synonymous  terms,  Jamieson  refers,  without  quoting,  to  the  Acts 
of  James  V.  "  The  Barrels  were  known  as  Six-pound-trees,  and  the  Half -barrels  as  Three- 
pound-trees.  And  the  Reason  why  these  Trees  are  called  Six-pound  Trees  is  because  the 
Servant  who  gets  the  Charge  of  them  to  sell  is  accountable  for  six  Pounds  Scots,  that  is  two 
Shilling  Scots  for  each  pint  of  Ale."  Thomas  Linay,  King's  Cooper,  "  Depones  That  the  true 
Guage  of  a  Barrel,  Beer-tree  Bind,  is  seventy-two  Pints." 

The  "Pundlar  Process"  gives  some  interesting  facts  in  the  history  of  Orcadian  agri- 
culture : — "  John  Fea,  in  Gruttell  in  Stronsay,  depones  That,  about  twenty-five  years  ago  or 
thereby,  a  Man  came  from  the  South  Country  in  a  Ship  that  was  to  carry  off  a  Part  of  the 
Superior-duty  of  the  Country  of  Orkney  to  teach  the  Vassals  and  Tenants  of  Orkney  to  clean 
their  Victual  Superior-duty  ;  that  this  Man  the  Deponent  saw  in  the  Island  of  Stronsay  dressing 
and  cleaning  some  Bear  there,  and  thereat  the  Deponent  assisted  him ;  And  depones  That,  to 
the  Deponent's  Knowledge  and  Belief,  the  Grain  in  Orkney  is  now  a  great  deal  snugger  and 
better  cleaned  than  it  was  before  the  foresaid  Man  came ;  and  that  he  knows  that  the  Lands 
in  Orkney  are  better  laboured  than  what  they  were  twenty-four  years  ago^  and  the  Grain  is 
considerably  bettered."  We  also  learn  from  this  suit  of  the  improvement  in  the  habits  of  the 
upper  classes  : — "  George  Traill  of  Holbister  Depones  That  the  Practise  of  excessive  Drinking 
and  deep  Gaming  is  entirely  out  of  Orkney  now  besides  what  it  was  in  the  Deponent's 
Memory." 


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CHAPTER  XXVI. 

5/.  Catherine's  Quoys,  Dunkirk,  and  Cromweirs  Fort. 

^NSERTED,  wedge-like,  between  the  lands  of  Pabdale  and  Weyland,  and  extending  down 
W  to  the  backs  of  the  houses  in  Bridge  Street,  were  the  two  quoys  called  St.  Catherine's 
Quoys.  These  had  of  old— how  old  no  one  can  tell— been  dedicated  to  the  support  of 
St.  Catherine's  altar  in  the  Cathedral.  When  the  town  got  its  charter,  they  were  granted, 
along  with  lands  of  wide  extent,  to  the  Corporation  for  the  upholding  of  the  Cathedral  and 
the  Parish  School.  A  road,  or  rather  lane,  ran  from  the  Shore  to  the  lands  of  Pabdale,  cutting 
St.  Catherine's  Quoys  into  upper  and  lower.  At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  (1804), 
Mr  David  Drever,  "  late  farmer  in  Newark,  Sanday,"  purchased  the  upper  quoys.  The  lower 
St.  Catherine's  Quoys  formed  the  garden  of  the  house  called  the  Gallery,  afterwards  Mr  Traill 
of  Woodwick's,  now  Mr  Garden's  property.  At  the  time  of  Mr  Drever's  purchase,  a  house 
stood  at  the  north-west  corner  of  the  quoys,  but  it  seems  to  have  struck  the  new  proprietor 
that  there  was  in  Kirkwall  a  demand  for  workmen's  houses,  and  accordingly  he  built  what  is 
now  known  as  Catherine  Place.  Catherine  Place  consists  of  a  front  row  of  houses  along 
the  road,  and  of  several  small  lateral  streets  oflF  it  at  angles  of  various  degrees.  At  the  back 
of  Young  Street  is  a  part  of  Catherine  Place  known  as  the  Back  Walk,  and  the  first  occupant 
of  the  uppermost  house  of  this  row  was  Magnus  Cumming,  weaver.  When  Mr  Cumming 
stood  at  his  door  and  looked  straight  before  him  he  had  an  unobstructed  view  right  up  to  the 
little  cottage  of  Gallow  Ha',  above  the  head  of  the  Clay  Loan.  From  what  the  burgh  records 
tell  us  of  Mr  David  Drever,  we  must  infer  that  he  was  a  man  in  advance  of  his  time,  that  he 
knew  the  value  of  money,  and  saw  where  it  could  be  laid  out  to  the  best  advantage. 

North  from  St.  Catherine's  Quoys  is  an  outrun  of  the  farm  of  Weyland.  On  this  a  row 
of  houses  has  been  built,  named  Young  Street,  after  an  ancient  proprietor.  Young  of 
Castleyards. 

But  more  interesting  is  the  little  suburb  of  Kirkwall,  between  Young  Street  and  the  sea^ 
known  from  time  immemorial  as  "  Dunkirk."  If  this  name  has  any  historical  value,  it  would 
indicate  that  three  centuries  ago  Earl  Patrick  Stewart's  men-o*- war's  men  had  something  to  do 
with  it.  But  the  land  on  which  Dunkirk  stands  never  belonged  to  the  Earl.  In  1592,  Robert 
Broun  of  Weyland  granted  to  his  brother-in-law,  Robert  Broun,  cordiner,  and  Janet  Broun, 
his  spouse,  a  feu  of  forty  feet  square  oflF  the  lands  of  Weyland.  Some  years  later  a  feu  was 
taken  by  a  person  of  the  name  of  Paplay.  Captain  Robert  Paplay  was  one  of  Earl  Patrick's 
commanders.  Now,  the  Earl's  finest  ship  was  the  "Dunkirk,"  and  perhaps  some  such 
connection  as  this  may  have  furnished  the  familiar  name  which  sticks  to  this  cluster  of 
houses. 

Early  in  the  present  century  the  eastern  part  was  acquired  by  a  company  formed  to 
prosecute  the  Greenland  whale  fishing.    The  finn  had  a  bark,  the  "  Ellen,"  which  made  an 


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gbomwbll's  fobt.  418 

annual  voyage  to  Davis'  Strait  On  her  return  she  anchored  off  Dunkirk,  and  her  cargo  of 
^'  spick,''  packed  in  barrels,  was  thrown  overboard,  towed  ashore,  and  boiled  in  the  old  ''  Oily 
House,"  which  still  occupies  the  site  of  Robert  Broun's  cottage.  Long  after  the  "  Ellen  "  had 
ceased  to  sail,  and  her  owners  had  retired  to  rest,  the  odours  of  the  "  Oily  House"  reached 
far  beyond  Dunkirk.  Every  year  shoals  of  the  cacM  whale  were  chased  ashore  on  our 
islands— Scapa  Bay  was  a  fatal  trap  for  them— and  every  season  smelt  a  fresh  boiling.  Thus 
the  townspeople  were  providentially  furnished  with  annual  supplies  for  their  cruisies.  The 
wealthy  used  candles  or  vegetable  oil,  but  train  oil  was  burned  by  the  masses.  It  was  but  a 
poor  light  that  the  saturated  rush  could  give,  but  many  a  pleasant  evening  the  old  cruisie  has 
seen.  In  Kirkwall,  fifty  years  ago,  reading  parties  were  common.  Toung  folks  would  gather 
into  a  house  where  it  was  known  there  was  a  pleasant  book,  and,  forming  a  wide  semi-circle 
round  the  fire,  would  listen  with  rapt  attention  while  one  of  Wilson's  Tales  of  the  Borders 
was  read  by  the  youth  who  sat  next  the  lamp.  At  the  same  time  the  click  of  the  knitting 
needle,  or  the  rustle  of  straw-plaiting,  told  that  the  time  of  the  audience  was  being  profitably 
employed,  the  deft  fingers  working  mechanically  and  requiring  little  supervision  from  the  eye. 
Every  now  and  then  the  person  next  the  reader  would  improve  the  light  by  pushing  forward 
the  wasting  rushes. 

Now-a-days,  when  beautiful  mineral  oil  has  taken  the  place  of  that  got  from  blubber  and 
fish  liver,  the  occasional  visit  of  a  few  whales  excites  interest  only  by  its  rarity ;  but  when  the 
capture  of  a  shoal  meant  a  supply  of  light  for  the  winter,  the  whale  hunt  called  forth  the 
united  action,  the  energy,  the  perseverance,  and  the  daring  of  the  islanders  to  a  degree  that 
nothing  else  could  effect.  It  would  almost  seem  that  the  law  of  supply  and  demand  governs 
the  natural  as  well  as  the  commercial  world  ;  we  no  longer  require  the  whales,  and  we  have 
not  got  them,  but  the  disappearance  of  the  whale  hunt  has  severed  the  last  link  connecting  us 
with  the  usages  and  modes  of  life  of  our  Norse  forefathers. 

In  1750,  Paplay's  feu  was  occupied  by  three  little  houses  or  tenements,  with  their  kail 
yards  and  peat  braes.  They  came  into  possession  of  James  Stewart,  merchant,  by  whose  will, 
dated  25th  April  1791,  they,  with  other  valuable  properties,  were  devoted  to  "pious  and 
charitable  uses  and  purposes." 

In  1830,  Stewart's  Trustees  sold  their  portion  of  Dunkirk  to  John  Baikie,  Esq.,  fixing  the 
width  of  the  passage  between  his  boundary  and  that  of  the  Whale  Fishing  Company  at  ^^^ 
feet. 

The  heroic  effort  of  Montrose  to  restore  the  Stuarts  drew  Cromwell's  attention  to  Kirk- 
wall. Here  Colonel  Johnson  and  Colonel  Harry  Graham  had  been  left  in  charge  in  the 
Eoyalist  interest,  but  when  they  heard  of  the  rout  at  Carbisdale,  they  fled  to  the  Continent. 
Thus,  when  the  soldiers  of  the  Commonwealth  came,  they  found  no  opposition  and  little  spoil. 
Some  arms,  which  the  Marquis  had  left  behind,  with  two  pieces  of  ordnance,  were  all  that 
they  should  have  got.  But  a  little  frigate  of  sixteen  guns — a  present  to  Graham  from  the 
Queen  of  Sweden — was  lying  in  the  bay.  She  could  easily  have  sailed  away,  but  the  men, 
taking  advantage  of  her  commander's  absence  in  one  of  the  islands,  mutinied  and  handed  the 
ship  over  to  Cromwell's  representative,  Governor  Watson. 

'*  After  the  destruction  of  Charles  I.  in  1649,  after  the  extinction  of  Montrose's  heroic  spirit  in 
1650,  and  the  reign  of  the  Saints  had  commenced  by  the  appointment  of  Cromwell  to  the  Protector- 
ship, his  soldiers  reached  and  overawed  the  inhabitants  of  Orknev.  They  built  a  fort  to  command  the 
harbour  of  Kirkwall,  fortifications  were  reared  on  the  east  side  of  the  Cathedral,  and  the  Earl  of 
Morton  was  driven  from  the  islands.  The  usurper's  ships  plundered  through  the  country,  and  those 
men,  with  Emmanuel  on  their  banners,  committed  gross  outrages  in  the  Cathedral  church. 

'*  In  answer  to  an  accusation  b^  Lord  Morton  after  the  Restoration  against  the  Maeistratee  of 
Kirkwall,  that  they  had  destroyed  his  seat  in  the  church  and  otherwise  taken  part  with  the  usurper, 


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414  KIRKWJUiL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

they  '  denyed  any  taking  down  of  the  same,  and  if  any  pairt  therof  was  wronged,  it  was  be  the 
Mnglishes,  as  the  palpitt  and  the  rest  of  the  seats  in  the  church  was  broken  down  by  thame  and 
brunt.'"* 

The  '*  Englishes  "  required  materials  for  their  works,  and  they  freely  helped  themselves  to 
what  the  Cathedral  could  supply.  A  number  of  the  pews  on  the  floor  of  the  church  were 
movable,  and  no  doubt  these  were  the  first  to  be  requisitioned.  On  the  other  hand,  they 
spared  what,  as  Puritans,  they  might  have  been  expected  to  destroy— the  carved  work  of  the 
stalls  and  of  Bishop  Graham's  loft. 

As  with  wood,  so  with  stones  : — '*  The  Magistrates  present  declared  that  they  were  willing 
that  the  church  yard  should  be  rebuilt  as  formerlie,  Provyding  that  the  stones  of  the  former 
Dyk,  which  were  taken  away  by  the  Englishes,  wherewith  the  Back  Guard  and  forts  were 
builded,  being  now  in  my  Lord  Bishope's  possession,  were  restored  for  this  effect."  f  The 
Back  Guard  referred  to  was  at  the  Bum  of  Pabdale,  and  the  forts  were  on  each  side  of  the 
harbour.  That  on  the  west  side  was  situated  where  there  is  now  a  quarry  ;  the  Fort  on  the 
east  side  still  remains. 

Cromwell's  soldiers,  while  in  Orkney,  are  credited  with  having  given  the  natives  valuable 
]es.sons  in  gardening  and  in  the  mechanical  arts,  specially  in  the  cultivation  of  cabbage  and  in 
the  construction  of  locks.  These  men  were  perfectly  willing  to  teach  the  people  of  Kirkwall 
all  they  themselves  knew  of  horticulture  or  of  anything  else  ;  and  the  **  reign  of  the  saints," 
while  it  lasted,  was  the  most  beneficent  rule  Orkney  had  enjoyed  since  the  days  of  Bishop 
Beid.  If  they  came  as  enemies,  they  remained  as  friends.  Some  brought  their  families  with 
them,  but  many  of  them  married  Orcadian  wives.  It  is  certain  that  of  such  a  garrison  the 
majority  were  bachelors,  and  our  ancient  registers,  in  which  men's  evil  manners  acquire 
immortality,  record  against  Cromwell's  soldiers  only  three  cases  of  illegitimacy  during  the 
nine  years  of  their  occupation.  After  the  Restoration,  some  of  them  settled  in  the  town  ; 
Sergeant  Emmerson  became  Deacon  of  the  Corporation  of  Shoemakers ;  and  Bailie  Harry 
Erburie  buUt  one  of  the  finest  houses  that  has  ever  adorned  Broad  Street. 

The  Governor,  too,  was  a  public  functionary  of  much  importance.  As  representative  of 
the  Lord  Protector,  he  took  his  seat  on  the  bench  of  the  local  court.  On  the  10th  of  January 
1653,  when  Patrick  Blair  of  Little  Blair  was  Sheriff",  Colonel  Thomas  Cooper,  Governor  of 
Orkney,  sat  as  judge.  On  the  8th  March  the  same  year,  the  Sheriff  and  Governor  sat 
together,  and  before  them  appeared  William  Craigie  of  Gairsay  and  Hugh  Craigie,  his  son,  as 
"  securities  for  John  Craigie  of  Sandis  that  he  shall  appear  when  wanted  before  the  Governor 
of  Orkney  to  answer  for  certain  seditious  and  treasonable  words,  to  the  prejudice  of  the 
Commonwealth  of  England."  A  fortnight  afterwards  they  sat  upon  a  similar  charge  brought 
against  Jean  Halcrow,  "  guidwife  of  Aikers." 

Colonel  Sauray  succeeded  Watson  as  Governor,  and  sat  on  the  bench  with  Sheriff  Blair. 
He  was  followed,  in  1654,  by  Major  Henry  Powell,  whose  last  appearance  in  Court  was  29th 
April  1655.  Possibly  the  military  judge  confined  his  attention  to  cases  savouring  of  sedition, 
but  we  hear  of  no  severities.  Indeed,  **  the  English  judges  whom  Cromwell  sent  down  to 
administer  the  law  in  Scotland,  for  the  first  time  made  people  acquainted  with  impartiality  of 
judgment"! 

In  the  old  Scottish  Courts  of  Law,  '*both  civil  and  criminal  procedure  was  conducted  in 
much  the  same  spirit  as  a  suit  at  war.  When  a  great  noble  was  to  be  tried  for  some  monstrous 
murder  or  treason,  he  appeared  at  the  bar  with  as  many  of  his  retainers,  and  as  many  of  Mb 
friends  and  their  retainers,  as  he  could  muster,  and  justice  only  had  its  course  if  the  govern- 
ment chanced  to  be  the  strongest,  which  often  was  not  the  case.  It  was  considered 
*  Peterkin'8  Notes,  p.  63.        t  S.  R.,  12th  Oct.  1674.        ::  Trad,  of  Edinr. 


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CROMWELL'S  FOBT.  415 

diahonourable  Dot  to  countenance  a  friend  in  troubles  of  this  kind,  however  black  might  be 
his  moral  guilt  The  trial  of  Bothweil  for  the  assassination  of  Darnley  is  a  noted  example."^ 
But  cases  could  be  won  otherwise  than  at  the  point  of  the  sword.  Bribery,  direct  aod 
indirect,  was  so  frequent  and  open  that  it  became  matter  of  legislation.  **  Forsameikle  as  it  is 
heavilie  murmured,  be  divers  Liegis  of  the  Realme,  that  our  Soveraine  Lord  electis  and  chusis 
young  men,  without  gravitie,  knawledge,  and  experience,  not  havand  sufficient  living  of  their 
awin  upon  the  Session,  aud  that  sum  of  them,  be  themselves,  their  wives,  or  servanda,  takis, 
buddis,  bribes,  gudes  and  geir,  swa  that  Justice  in  effect  is  coft  and  sauld.  For  remeid 
quhairof,  the  Kingis  Majestie  statutis  and  ordaines,"  <kc.  Family  influence  also  was  a  common 
instrument  used  towards  the  perversion  of  justice.  "  After  the  Restoration,  when  native  lords 
were  again  put  upon  the  bench,  some  one,  in  presence  of  the  President,  Gilmour,  lauding  the 
late  English  judges  for  the  equity  of  their  proceedings,  his  lordship  angrily  remarked,  '  De'il 
thank  them  ;  a'  wheen  kinless  loons.' "  f 

During  Cromwell's  rule  a  large  committee  of  the  leading  men  in  each  county  was 
appointed  to  see  to  the  keeping  of  law  and  order,  and  in  Orkney  these  were  :— **  Stuart  of 
Maynes,  Henry  Stuart  of  Grimsay,  Thomas  Buchanuane,  Sb'rff ;  Mr  Henry  Aitken,  Comissr. ; 
Edward  Cock,  Magnus  Tailyor,  John  Baikie,  and  Henrie  Prince,  Baillies  of  Kirkwall ;  Patrick 
Smyth  of  Braco,  William  Sinclair  of  Saba,  John  Craigie  of  Sand,  Thomas  Sinclair  of  Camps- 
town,  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness,  Edward  Sinclair  of  Oyer,  Edward  Sinclair  of  Nesse,  Johne 
Sinclair  of  Hamer,  Adam  Ballenden  of  Stenhous,  David  Heart  of  Ruitland,  Hugh  Halcro  of 
Gruike,  William  Craigie  of  Gersay,  William  Iruvine  of  Gersay,  Patric  Balfour  of  Faray, 
Thomas  Traill  of  Holland,  James  Cock  of  Bea,  John  Groat  of  Elsness,  dames  Fea,  younger  of 
Claystrane ;  Robert  Stewart  of  Brugh,  John  Groat  of  Hallstown,  James  Mudie  of  Melsetter, 
Hugh  Halcro  of  that  ilk,  and  the  Laird  of  Maynes,  or,  in  his  absence,  Mr  Henry  Aitken  to  be 
convener." 

While  the  Lord  Protector's  rule  was  no  doubt  beneficent  on  the  whole,  his  levies  of  men 
and  money  must  have  fallen  very  heavily  upon  a  poor  county  such  as  Orkney  was.  "  Out  of 
the  Shrfdome  of  Orknay  1000  foote,  Colonell,  the  Erie  of  Mertoune,  or  any  that  he  sail 
appoynt  who  is  capable  according  to  the  Lawis  of  this  Kingdome."    The  men  from  the 

"  shyres  of  Sutherland,  Caithness,  and  Orkney,  upon  the day  of  April  J  nixt  are  ordained 

to  be  in  readiness  upon  orders  from  the  parlement  Committee  of  Estate  and  gnall  officers  to 
be  readie  to  march,  with  fyftene  dayis  provision,  at  6d  per  day  to  each  footman,  and  16d  per 
day  to  each  horseman,  which  is  to  be  delyvered  to  thame  and  not  to  thair  officers.  For  the 
Shrfdome  of  Orknay,  the  Earle  of  Sutherland  to  be  Colonell  both  to  foote  and  horss."  In 
1649,  there  was  another  call  for  men,  Orkney  to  supply  375  foot,  and  Orkney  and  Shetland  54 
horse. 

The  demands  for  cash  varied  according  to  the  necessities  of  the  Executive.  At  one  time 
"The  Shrfdome  of  Orkney,  to  monethlie  pay,  £1143."  Again,  the  whole  of  Scotland  was 
assessed  to  the  extent  of  £10,000  monthly,  and  Orkney  and  Shetland's  proportion  of  that  was 
;£153  9s  6d.  It  may  readily  be  thought  that  such  sums  were  not  always  forthcoming  when 
wanted,  hence  such  a  demand  as  this  : — "  Collonell  James  Campbell  of  Laweris  ordered  to 
receive  10,000  lb.  Scotts  out  of  the  loan  and  taxt  of  the  Shrfdome  of  Orknay,  and  8000  lbs. 
out  of  the  rest  of  the  first  17  moneths'  maintenance  still  resting  be  that  shire." 

The  parliamentary  proceedings  of  the  time  contain  references  to  the  "fynes  of  the 
gentlemen  of  Orkney,"  showing  how  some  of  this  money  had  to  be  extorted,  so  that  others 
besides  "  Johne  Craigie  of  Saudis  "  and  the  "  guidwife  of  Aikers,"  if  all  the  truth  were  known, 
uttered  "  words  to  the  prejudice  of  the  Commonweal  of  England." 

*  Chambers'  Trad,  of  Edinr.        t  Trad,  of  Edinr.,  p.  135.        t  1648. 


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416  KIRKWiUiL  IN  THB  ORKNEYS. 

In  addition  to  all  this,  the  garrison  in  the  Fort  had  to  be  locally  upheld.  Wealthy  men 
famished,  equipped,  and  paid  one  soldier — in  some  cases  more  than  one.  Smythe  of  Braco 
supplied  three,  while  the  community  at  large  were  assessed  for  their  proportion.  The 
fortifications  at  the  Mount  were  abreast  of  the  military  requirements  of  their  day,  and  they 
remained  efficient  long  after  Cromwell's  death. 

The  Rev.  James  Wallace,  referring  to  the  Fort,  says  : — "  At  the  North  end  of  the  town  is 
a  place  built  by  the  Unglish,  ditched  about,  and  on  which,  in  time  of  war,  they  plant  Cannons 
for  the  defence  of  the  harbour  against  the  ships  of  the  Enemy ;  as  it  fell  out,  anno  1666,  when 
there  was  warrs  between  our  King  and  the  Hollanders,  A  Dutch  man  of  war  coming  to  the 
Boad,  who  shot  many  Guns  at  the  Town,  with  a  design  to  take  away  some  of  the  ships  that 
were  in  the  Harbour,  was,  by  some  cannon  from  the  Mount,  so  bruised  that  he  was  forced  to 
flee  with  the  loss  of  many  of  his  men." 

After  the  great  French  war,  which  had  cost  so  much  in  blood  and  treasure,  an  economical 
government  resolved  to  abandon  the  Fort,  and  the  following  order  came  north  :— 

"  Office  of  Ordnance,  22nd  September  1817. 

*'  Gentlemen, — It  having  been  decided  to  dismantle  certain  Batteries  on  the  Coast  of  Scotland, 
including  that  at  Kirkwall,  I  am  directed  by  The  Board  of  Ordnance  to  si^^nify  the  same  for  your 
Information,  and  that  orders  are  given  for  the  removal  of  the  Guns,  Carriages,  Ammunition,  and 
Stores  from  thence,  by  the  first  opportunity,  to  Edinburgh  Castle. — I  am,  Gentlemen,  Your  most 
obedient,  humble  Servant,  (Signed)        B.  M.  Crew. 

'*  To  the  Magistrates  or  Principal  Inhabitants  of  Kirkwall." 

Qovemment  has  rehabilitated  the  old  Fort,  and  it  is  to-day  better  armed  and  better 
manned  than  it  was  in  the  time  of  the  Commonwealth.  As  to  the  efi^ct  of  its  fire  upon  an 
unfortunate  enemy,  it  need  only  be  said  that  the  guns  are  served  by  the  First  and  Eighth 
Companies  of  the  0.y.A. 


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CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Rule  of  the  Church. 

/HE  social  history  of  Kirkwall  during  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  is 
^  perhaps  best  read  in  the  records  of  the  Church.  If,  among  her  adherents,  the  Church 
of  Rome  allowed  no  diversity  of  opinion  upon  matters  spiritual,  and  put  down  heresy 
with  a  high  hand,  in  Orkney,  where  no  heresy  existed,  her  sway  was  mild  and  beneficent. 
Most  of  her  prelates  were  men  of  wealth  and  influence,  and  they  used  these  gifts  for  the 
adornment  of  their  Cathedral,  for  the  welfare  of  their  people,  and  for  the  general  improvement 
of  their  see. 

Following  upon  the  Reformation  came  a  series  of  churchmen,  by  turns  presbyterian  and 
episcopalian,  as  suited  the  politics  of  the  day,  but  holding  this,  in  common  with  the  pre- 
Reformation  clergy,  that  the  priests  were  absolute  rulers,  and  that  passive  obedience  was  the 
duty  of  the  laity.  In  their  hands  the  Decalogue  became  a  code  of  civil  law  which  gave  them 
the  power  to  interfere  in  the  public  business  and  the  private  affairs  of  every  citizen.  To 
enforce  their  rule  they  assumed  the  right  to  fine,  imprison,  and  even  to  scourge,  while  fugitives 
from  "  discipline"  were  excommunicated  and  formally  handed  over  to  Satan.  Kirkwall  was 
well  provided  with  ecclesiastical  machinery  for  the  reclaiming  of  backsliders.  Outside  of  the 
Cathedral  were  the  Cuckstool,  the  Jougs,  and  the  Stocks,  while  inside  were  the  White  Stone 
of  Repentance,  the  Stool  of  Repentance,  Sackcloth,  the  Prison,  and  the  Minister — the  last 
worst  of  all. 

"  29th  April  1672.— Sederunt— My  Lord  Bishop,  Minister,  Thomas  Wilson,  Arthur  Baikie, 
etc.,  etc.  The  Magistrats  ar  desired  by  my  lord  Bishop  and  Session  to  erect  ane  cuckstool  or 
Pillory  in  the  Church  yard  as  wes  formerlie,  and  that  upon  the  Session's  expenses,  for  the 
terrification  of  scandalous  persons  and  scolds." 

The  Magistrates  evidently  granted  the  request,  for,  5th  May  1684,  "Compeared  Janet 
Thomson  and  confessed  that  she  was  drinking  on  the  Sabbath  night  with  Alexr.  Ross,  a 
merchant ;  the  Session  ordains  her  to  pay  fourtie  shilling  Scotts  and  appear  before  the 
congregation  on  the  white  stone,  and  if  she  pay  not  she  is  to  be  put  up  in  the  cuckstool." 

Besides  the  very  long  Sunday  sermons,  which  the  people  accepted  as  a  matter  of  course, 
there  was  a  weekly  "  catechising,"  a  more  personal  infliction,  which  the  ministers,  as  far  as 
lay  in  their  power,  suff'ered  no  one  to  escape.  Many  times  in  the  Session  Records  we  see 
absentees  threatened,  and,  on  5th  March  1677,  a  number  of  delinquents  were  fined  six  shillings 
each.  Truly  the  clergy  spared  no  pains  to  make  the  laity  keep  the  Commandments.  The 
First  and  Second  Commandments  gave  the  Session  no  trouble,  but  the  Third  and  onwards 
kept  them  busy.  It  is  very  improbable  that  our  streets  were  disgraced  two  hundred  years 
ago  by  the  loud-voiced  profanity  which  now-a-days  is  too  frequently  heard,  for  in  those  days 
that  sin  was  regarded  as  a  crime,  and  was  sharply  dealt  with  both  by  the  civil  and 
ecclesiastical  courts. 

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418  KIRKWALL  IN  TUB  ORKNEYS. 

The  Church  had  for  her  warrant  the  Third  Commandment,  while  the  Magistrates  had  Act 
of  Parliament.  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  of  pious  memory,  who  made  the  morality  of  her 
subjects  her  special  care,  by  an  Act,  passed  1st  February  1551,  made  profane  swearing  a 
State  oflfence  :— 

*'  Anent  them  that  Sweabis  Abbominablb  Aithbs." 

'*  Because,  notwithstanding  the  oft  and  frequent  Preachings  in  detestation  of  the  grievous  and 
abbominable  althes  swearing,  execrationes,  and  blasphematioun  of  the  name  of  God,  swearand  in 
vaine  be  his  precious  blud,  bodie,  passion,  and  wounds,  Devil  stick,  cummer,  gore,  roist  or  riefe  them, 
and  sik  uther  oug-sum  aithes  and  execrationes  against  the  name  of  God,  zit  the  samin  is  cum  in  sik 
ane  ungodlie  use  amangst  the  people  of  this  realme,  baith  of  fl[reat  and  small  Estates,  that  dailie  and 
hourelie  may  be  heard  amangst  them  open  blasphemation  of  God's  name  and  Majestic,  to  the  greate 
contemption  thereof,  and  bringing  of  the  ire  ana  wrath  of  God  upon  the  people  :  Herefore,  and  for 
eschewing  of  sik  inconventientes  in  times  cumming,  It  is  statute  and  ordained  that  quhatsnmever 
person  or  persones  swearis  sik  abbominable  aithes  and  detestable  execrationes  as  afore  rehearsed,  sail 
incur  the  paines  after  following,  als  oft  as  they  faibde,  respective  :  That  is  to  say,  ane  Prelate  of  Kirk, 
Earle,  or  Lord,  for  everie  fault  to  be  committed  for  the  space  of  three  Moneths  nixt  to  cum  :  That  is 
to  say,  unto  the  6r8t  day  of  3faijf  exdiisim,  twelve  pennies  :  Ane  Barronne  or  beneficed  man,  consti- 
tute in  dignitie  Ecclesiastical,  foure  pennies  :  Ane  Landed  man,  Free-halder,  Vassal,  Fewar,  Burgee, 
and  small  beneficed  man,  twa  pennies :  Ane  craftes-man,  zeaman,  ane  servand  man,  and  all  uthers, 
ane  pennie.  Item,  the  puir  folkes  that  hes  na  geare  to  pay  the  paine  foresaide,  to  be  put  in  the 
stockes  or  prisoned  for  the  space  of  four  houres,  and  wemen  to  be  weyed  and  considered,  conforme  to 
their  blonde  or  Estaite  of  their  parties  that  they  ar  coupled  with." 

For  each  succeeding  offence  the  penalty  was  to  be  doubled,  till  the  fourth,  when  the 
paying  criminals  were  to  be  "put  in  ward  for  the  space  of  yeir  and  day,  and  the  *puir' 
sinners  were  to  be  banished."  The  above  Act  was  confirmed  by  James  VI.  in  1581,  when  he 
gives  the  choice  for  "pure  folkes"  of  "stockes"  or  "jogges."  It  would  seem  that  the  jougs, 
a  more  simple,  elegant,  and  effective  instrument  than  the  stocks,  had  been  introduced  into 
Scotland,  probably  from  Holland,  between  1551  and  1581.  A  hardened  sinner  had  used 
naughty  words  in  the  presence  of  the  minister,  therefore,  9th  December  1689, — 

**  Gompeired  John  More,  for  his  cursing  before  the  minister  and  ane  elder,  at  yt.  time  they  come 
to  visit  his  familie,  and  in  regard  he  had  imprecat  a  curse  to  yt.  person  who  had  represented  him  so, 
even  to  the  minister's  sone,  the  Session  concluded  him  worthie  of  severe  censure,  and  determined  yt. 
he  should,  upon  nixt  Sabbath,  sitt  in  the  stocks  'twixt  second  and  third  bell,  wt.  ane  inscription  upon 
his  breast,  in  Capitall  Letters  upon  paper,  *  Heer  sitts  ane  Curser,'  and  after  sermon  to  apear  upon 
the  white  stone  before  the  pulpit  and  make  his  acknowledgement." 

Bailie  Moncrieff  and  his  wife  had  trouble  with  their  servant  girl,  and,  foolishly  complain- 
ing to  the  Session,  had  the  pleasure  of  having  their  dwelling  in  Harbour  Street  turned  into  a 
glass-house  : — 

Idth  April  1703,  *' Helen  Irvine  called,  compeared,  and  being  challenged  with  cursing  and 
imprecating  Baillie  Moncriefs  wyfe,  answered  that  she  acknowledged  she  had  cursed  her,  but  denyed 
anie  such  expression  as  biteh  ;  however,  that  she  was  greatlie  provoked  thereto  bv  her,  who  did  beat 
her  on  the  neck  and  rent  her  toy*  and  hair.  She  was  sharply  rebuked,  and  being  removed,  the 
Session  judged  fitt  to  refer  her  censure  untill  the  nixt  day,  against  which  tyme  they  appoint  John 
Fleat  and  John  Richan,  elders,  to  go  to  Baillie  Moncriefs  wyfe,  and  to  represent  to  him  and  her  that 
the  Sess.  are  verie  sorrie  to  hear  so  many  complents  from  her,  and  that  they  are  verie  readv  to  dis- 
courage all  such  abuses  ;  however,  they  are  desyred  to  tell  her  that  her  beating  and  abusing  tne  Lass, 
as  represented  to  the  Sess.,  is  verie  unfitt  and  verie  unbecoming  to  her,  and  that  therefore  they,  in 
the  Session's  name,  exhort  her  to  peace  and  holiness,  and  for  the  Lass  that  has  abused  her,  she  shall 
be  rebuked  and  punished  as  the  Session  shall  think  fitt. 

*'  The  Session  appointed  the  said  Helen  to  appear  before  the  pulpit  next  Lo/  day  to  be  rebuked, 
and  fynes  her  in  20  sh.  Scotto  for  cursing." 

*  Cap. 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHURCH.  41& 

Those  who  broke  the  Fourth  Commandment  were  strictly  dealt  with,  and  the  general 
order  concerning  Sunday  sinners  very  well  illustrates  the  tyranny  of  the  Church  even  after 
a  century  of  protestantism  : — 

Act  anbnt  SABBATH-fiRSAKma.* 

"My  Lord  Bishop  and  Session,  taking  into  ther  serious  consideration  the  great  abase  and 
enormitie  of  severall  persones,  both  old  and  young,  in  this  congregation,  by  profoning  the  lord's  day, 
both  in  tym  and  after  divine  service*,  to  the  great  scandel  of  the  gospel  and  ordinances  in  this  place  ; 
Therefor  my  lord  Bishop  and  Session  ordaines,  and  by  these  presents  have  ordained,  that  if  any 
persone  or  persones  shaU,  in  tym  of  divine  service,  be  found  walkine  in  the  bodie  of  the  churchy 
sitting  or  lying  in  the  churchyard,  or  wandring  in  the  streets  or  back  lanes,  or  found  drinkinff  in 
tavemes  or  ale  houses,  that  the  eldar  collecting  and  visiting,  or  the  officers  which  attend  him  quhen 
they  apprehend  any  such  delinquent,  that  they  give  up  their  names,  that  the^  may  be  censured  in 
manner  as  after  follows.  Lykwayes,  these  ar  recomending  to  the  care  and  vigilance  of  everie  eldar 
in  ther  respective  precincts,  that  they  tak  diligent  notice  after  sermon  that  no  persone  whatsomever 
be  permitted  to  vaiee  throw  the  streets,  or  stand  at  the  gates  or  doores  (as  too  commonlie  is  done), 
discoursing  idle  and  profane  language,  and  that  they  admonish  them  to  aoe  into  ther  houses  ;  Other- 
wayes,  if  they  refuse  the  said  eldar's  admonition,  ther  names  shalbe  taken  up,  and  they,  with  the 
forementioned  transgressors,  shalbe  convened  befor  my  lord  Bishop  and  Session  for  ther  contempt, 
and  censured  as  Sabbath-breakers,  conforme  to  the  practice  of  the  Church,  and  lykwayes  they  shalbe 
referred  to  the  civil  magistrate  for  ane  pecunial  mulct  in  pioa  u^nis.  And  these  ar  also  to  certiiie 
all  parents  and  masters  that  they  shalbe  answerable  for  ther  children  and  servants  so  offending." 

The  names  of  persons  who  did  not  attend  divine  service  with  becoming  regularity  were 
entered  on  a  list  known  as  the  '*  Black  Roll."  This  list  was  revised  and  amended  from  time 
to  time  as  occasion  required  : — **  4th  Feb.  1689,  there  was  a  list  given  in  be  the  elders  in  there 
respective  plaices  of  such  people  as  disfrequented  the  ordinances.'*  Then  followed  the  names 
of  sixteen  persons,  among  them  John  Brown,  writer,  and  Jean  Caldell,  his  spouse,  **  all  which 
persons  were  appointed  to  be  read  out  of  pulpit  nixt  Sabbath  Day."  "  30th  January  1693, 
Robert  Nicolson  compeared  for  his  disf requenting  of  the  ordinances,  was  sharplie  reprehended, 
and  promised  better  attendance  afterwards." 

Some  kinds  of  ** Sabbath  breach"  were  worse  than  others.  The  simplest  and  most 
common  oflfence  was  the  Sunday  walk  : — 

"  21st  June  1703.  —The  Sess.,  considering  that  several  persons,  disfrequenting  the  ordinances,  do 
idlie  vague  about  the  fields,  Lord's  day  forenoon  and  afternoon,  in  time  of  Divine  service,  to  the  dis- 
honour of  God,  prophanation  of  the  Sabbath,  and  starveing  of  their  own  soules.  Therefor,  the  Sess. 
eamestlie  requests  all  such  persones  to  attend  the  publick  ordinances,  and  strictlie  forbids  all  disfre- 
quenting of  them,  and  all  idle  vaging  upon  the  Lord's  day,  either  in  tyme  of  divine  service  or  ther- 
after,  either  in  the  fields  or  in  the  open  streets,  standing  in  multitudes  conferrinff  about  worldlie  and 
slnfull  things,  with  certification  that  all  such  disfrequenters  of  the  ordinances  and  idle  vagers  shall  be 
strictlie  noticed  and  punished  accordinglie." 

And  the  Magistrates  loyally  supported  the  Session.    In  April  1710, — 

'*  The  Magistrates  and  Councill,  considering  ane  representation  from  the  Session  anent  the  gross 
abuse  of  the  Sabbath  day  by  the  idle  vageing,  sporting  and  playing  of  Servants  and  others  in  the 
Street  and  els  where  about  the  Tonn,  in  great  contempt  or  unacomptable  forgetfullness  of  the  fourth 
commandment  of  the  Ijaw,  for  remeed  whereof  the  Magistrates  and  Council  present  renues  and  corro- 
borats  all  former  Acts  of  Councill  made  against  prophaners  of  the  Sabbath  day,  and  appoynt  and 
ordain  that  one  of  the  Session  Elders  in  the  several  quartersf  of  the  Burgh,  accompanied  with  one  of 
the  Toun  officers  or  kirk  officers,  goe  throw  the  sds.  quarters  once,  tweise,  or  oftner  every  Sabbath 
after  the  aftnoon's  sermon,  and  impowers  them  to  apprehend  and  imprison  all  idle  vaeeing  persons 
whom  they  may  find  who  cannot  give  sufficient  satisfying  accompt  of  their  being  abroad.^' 

♦  26th  Feb.  1672. 
t  The  '*  quarters"  appointed  were : — First,  from  the  head  of  the  town  to  the  head  of  Broad 
Street ;  second,  to  the  Castle ;  third,  to  the  Bridge  ;  and  fourth,  to  the  Shore. 


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420  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

But  ministers  themselves  would  sometimes  make  a  slip,  especially  when  away  from  home, 
and  it  was  difficult  to  get  off  with  impunity,  as  every  church  member  throughout  Scotland 
was  ready  to  report  all  delinquencies  that  came  under  his  notice,  except  of  course  his  own. 
The  Rev.  John  Cobb,  minister  of  St.  Andrews  and  Deerness,  going  south,  thought  fit  to  make 
a  Sabbath  day's  journey  through  Morayshire.  The  good  man  was  observed,  however,  and 
reported  by  the  Presbytery  of  Forres  as  travelling  through  their  bounds  on  Sunday,  and  on 
his  return  Mr  Cobb  was  had  up  before  the  Kirkwall  Presbytery  and  tried  for  the  offence. 

In  punishing  such  offences,  the  magistrates  were  merely  assisting  the  ministers ;  had  they 
acted  on  their  own  authority,  the  clergy  would  have  resented  the  interference.  During  the 
time  of  the  "  Meeting-house"  troubles,  the  Justices  complained  that  the  Session  and  Presbytery 
went  beyond  their  jurisdiction  in  taking  up  and  deciding  civil  cases.  The  ecclesiastical 
courts  maintained  their  right  to  act  as  they  had  done,  whereupon,  in  retaliation,  the  Justices, 
moved  by  some  wag  in  their  number,  gravely  sat  in  judgment  upon  Sabbath-breakers,  and 
absolved  them  without  reference  to  ministers  or  elders.  As  may  be  imagined,  this  gave  great 
offence  to  the  Church,  the  more  so  as  it  afforded  much  amusement  to  frivolous  laymen. 

A  heinous  Sunday  crime  was  frequently  perpetrated  almost  within  the  shadow  of  the 
kirk.  People  having  walked  many  miles  to  attend  service,  would  go  into  a  house  to  refresh 
themselves  with  a  mug  of  ale.  Here  they  sometimes  met  friends  of  like  necessity  and  tastes, 
with  the  result  that,  instead  of  going  to  hear  sermon,  they  sometimes  sat  out  the  forenoon 
over  their  liquor  : — 26th  Jan.  1670. — "  After  invocation  of  the  name  of  Gkxi,  compeared  John 
Inksetter,  Thomas  Thampsone,  William  Gyre,  and  Alexr.  Linay,  and  confessed  that  they  mett 
in  William  Gyre's  house,  and  the  vementness  of  the  weather  caused  them  stay  longer  there 
then  they  intended,  and  that  they  caused  John  Aikin  read  some  chapters,  and  that  they 
drank  onlie  one  pynt  of  ail.  The  Session,  notwithstanding  their  allegiance,  finds  them  guiltie, 
and  caused  them  all  sitt  downe  on  ther  knees  and  crave  pardon  for  ther  offence,  and  were 
admonished  to  refrain  from  the  lik  fault  for  the  future  ;  and  ordains  ilk  ane  of  them  to  pay 
five  grotts,  to  be  given  to  the  poore,  which  they  all  promised.  The  Session  wes  closed  with 
prayer." 

In  those  days  there  were  no  licensed  houses,  any  person  could  brew  and  sell  ale,  and 
doubtless  there  were  in  Kirkwall  specialists,  whose  browsts  were  well  known  and  appreciated. 
Among  these— why  not?— was  the  public  executioner  :— 17th  Augt.  1674,  "Ordains  to  sum- 
mond  George  Sinclair  of  Gyre  and  Margaret  Grot,  their  two  servant  women,  for  being  found 
drinking  in  John  Walls,  the  hangman's  house,  in  tyme  of  sermon." 

24th  Augt.,  "  Compeared  Jean  Hutton,  servant  to  Gyre,  and  Barbara  Omond,  servant  to 
Margaret  Grott,  and  being  found  guiltie,  both  by  ther  own  confession  and  by  James 
Laughton's  declaration,  were  fyned  each  of  them  in  twentie  shilling  Scots,  and  to  appear 
before  the  pulpitt  the  nixt  Lord's  day  to  mak  publick  confession  of  then*  scandel  in  drinking 
the  tyme  of  the  fornoon's  sermon  in  the  hangman's  house." 

There  had  been  an  old  Act  in  force,  probably  passed  by  authority  of  the  Session,  that  no 
ale  should  be  sold  during  the  hours  of  service,  and  it  became  necessary  to  renew  it : — 17th 
June  1689,  "  Margaret  Robertson  appointed  to  be  charged  for  selling  ale  to  David  Seater  and 
William  Anguson  in  tyme  of  sermon,  ane  act  renewed  and  to  be  published  from  pulpit  yt 
none  should  sell  ale  in  tyme  of  divine  service  under  hazard  of  censure."  David  Seater  was  an 
official  in  the  Church  and  required  special  treatment.  Accordingly  it  was  enacted,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  bellman,  that  "  for  each  fault  which  could  be  proven  against  him,  twelve  shilling 
Scots  to  be  defaultat  off  his  sallarie,  and  if  found  drunk  with  the  hand-bell  in  his  hand,  he 
should  loss  the  benefite  of  that  buriall." 

The  town  officers  accompanied  the  magistrates  to  church,  halbert  on  shoulder,  for  which 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHUBCH.  421 

service  they  received  a  consideration,  bat  after  David  Seater's  lapse  it  was  necessary  to  make 
a  new  arrangement.  Accordingly,  23rd  Dec.  1689,  "  It  was  enacted  that  no  money  should  be 
given  to  the  officers  upon  the  Sabbath  day,  out  of  the  o£fering,  till  Monday,  to  prevent  ther 
drinking  upon  the  Sabbath  day." 

Ordinary  domestic  duties  became  crimes  when  done  on  the  Sabbath.  Fifty  years  ago  the 
knocking-stone  was  an  institution  to  be  seen  at  every  cottage  door.  This  was  a  huge  stone 
mortar,  in  which  the  common  bear  of  the  country  was  pounded,  and,  by  having  the  husks 
knocked  off,  was  turned  into  pot  barley.  The  pestle  was  a  heavy-headed,  long-handled  wooden 
fMlly  and  the  dull  thud,  as  it  was  brought  down  on  the  grain,  could  be  mistaken  for  no  other 
sound.  On  6th  April  1674,  "  Compeired  Margaret  Halcro,  and  denyed  that  any  bear  was 
knocked  in  her  house  on  the  Sabbath  Day."  "  Compeired  Thomas  Barnardson,"  husband, 
"  and  denyed  that  there  was  any  bear  knocked  in  his  house  on  the  lord's  day."  "  Compeared 
Jean  Sinclair,"  servant,  "and  denyed,"  etc.,  "but  that  the  bear  was  knocked  in  James 
Thampson's  house  on  Saturday  at  night."  "  Ordains  to  summon  Isobel  Jack,  their  neighbour, 
till  further  tryale."  13th  April,  "  Compeired  Isobel  Jack,  and  declared  that  she  heard  some 
chapping  in  Thomas  Bamardson's  house  on  ane  Sabbath  morning,  but  knew  not  whether  it 
was  knocking  of  bear  or  breaking  of  peats."  "  Compeired  Margaret  Halcro,  and  confessed 
that  her  lasse  gave  the  bear  that  was  not  well  knocked  some  chapps,  for  which  she  did  beat 
her  upon  the  morrow  after,  so  that  the  said  lasse  ran  away  from  her  house  therefor,  as  the 
neighbours  knew  verie  weill."  "  The  Session  ordains  the  said  Margaret,  for  permitting  her 
lasse  to  doe  so,  to  sitt  downe  upon  her  knees  before  the  Session  and  crave  pardon  from  God 
for  her  permission  of  such  ane  enormitie  upon  the  lord's  day,  which  she  did,  and  promised  not 
to  suffer  the  lik  to  be  done  in  her  house  heirafter." 

13th  April  1691,  "  It  was  enacted  that  no  one  should  be  seen  to  carrie  water  in  time  of 
sermon  under  such  a  penaltie  as  the  Session  should  inflict  upon  them." 

25th  January  1674,  all  Sunday  travelling  by  sea  or  land  was  strictly  prohibited,  and 
boatmen,  especially  those  who  had  charge  of  ferries,  were  cautioned  against  taking  hires  on 
that  day  : — 1st  May  1676,  "  Ordains  Malcolm  Maxwell  and  his  boat's  crew  to  bring  in  ane 
boat  of  sand  to  the  church,  in  compensation  for  their  sin  of  Sabbath  breaking." 

In  keeping  with  the  above,  it  is  clearly  seen  that  the  Rev.  Wm.  Blaw  of  Westray  only  did 
his  meagre  duty  in  hanging  his  cat,  seeing  that 

**  In  the  boose  it  killed  a  moose 
Upon  the  Sawbath  day." 

One  form  of  Sabbath  breaking,  not  common  it  is  to  be  hoped,  required  special  legislation. 
At  a  meeting  of  Session,  20th  June  1643,  it  was  found  necessary  "  to  take  order  with  some 
persons  who  were  summoned  for  wyding  in  the  sea  promiscuously,  and  an  act  is  made  That  na 
persone  whatsoever  shall  be  found  wyding  in  the  water  openlie  upon  the  Sabbath  day ;  and  in 
case  men  and  women,  lads  and  lasses,  be  found  promiscuously  wyding  together  after  a 
lascivious  manner,  either  Sunday  or  week  day,  whether  by  day  or  by  night,  they  shall  be 
severallie  censured  and  condignly  punished  for  terrification  of  others,  by  making  their  public 
repentance  upon  the  quhite  stean,  and  paying  40s.  in  pios  usus^  toties  quoiies."  There  were  in 
the  floor  of  the  choir  several  marble  slabs,  and  the  White  Stone  referred  to  was  probably  that 
nearest  the  pulpit. 

"  My  Lord  Morton,  his  brother,  Mr  John  Douglas,  presented  a  desire  in  my  Lord's  name 
unto  the  session,  That  seeing  his  Lordship  had  ane  purpose  to  erect  ane  tomb  upon  the  corp 
of  his  umquhile  father  in  the  best  fashion  he  could  have  it :  Tharefore  understanding  that 
there  were  some  stones  of  marble  in  the  floore  of  the  kirk  of  Kirkwall,  commonly  called  St. 


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422  KIIIKWALL  IN  THE  OBKNEYS. 

Magnus  Eark,  quhilk  would  be  very  suitable  to  the  said  tomb  ;  therefore  requested  the  favour 
of  the  session  to  uplift  the  said  stanes  for  the  use  foresaid :  Whereunto  the  session  con- 
descended with  this  provision,  that  the  places  thereof  be  sufficiently  filled  up  again  with 
hewen  buriall  stones.'**  This  was  a  nefarious  bargain  certainly,  but  there  are  still  two  white 
stones  left,  though  hidden  by  the  present  flooring. 

In  the  matter  of  Sunday  observance,  the  boys  of  Kirkwall  were  in  constant  collision  with 
the  Session.  A  party  of  these  imps  would  gravely  go  and  occupy  the  elders'  pew,  sending 
these  potent,  grave,  and  reverend  personages  to  find  accommodation  where  they  could  : — 

*'  The  eldars  of  the  parish  gave  in  ane  complaintt  that  they  were  molested  in  the  seits  in  whiche 
the  Session  permitted  them  to  sitt  into,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Stalls,  declaring  that  severall  idle 
persones,  prentises  and  boyes,  did  fill  up  the  rowmes,  and  that  they  and  uther  honest  men  were 
debarred,  ffor  remedie  of  which  enormitie,  The  Session  ordained  to  make  pnblick  intimation  that  if 
any  such  persone  sould  in  tym  comeing  presume  to  occupy  the  saids  seats  and  exclude  the  eldars  and 
uther  honest  men  therfrom,  each  contraveiner  shall  be  referred  to  the  civil  magistrate,  who  woulde 
exact  six  shillings,  toties  qtiolies." 

Ejected  from  the  highest  seats  in  the  synagogue,  the  boys  proceeded  to  give  further 
trouble.  Though  John  Knox  had  been  in  his  grave  for  just  about  a  hundred  years,  traditions 
of  the  pre-Eeformation  Sunday  sports  still  lingered  in  Kirkwall : — 

"  Ordains^  to  admonish  all  parents  and  masters  publicklie  out  of  pulpitt  that  they  be  answerable 
for  ther  children  and  servants*  carriage  on  the  Sabbath  day,  conforme  to  former  Acts  made  there- 
anent.  Becaus  it  is  reported  that  severall  idle  hoyes  playes  at  football  in  tym  of  and  after  sermon, 
and  ordains  the  eldar  who  visits,  and  the  officers  with  him,  to  tak  dilisent  notice  that  no  such  abuse 
be  committed  in  tym  comeing,  and  recomends  the  care  therofe  to  each  eldar  in  ther  severall  precincts, 
and  that  the  delinquents'  names  be  given  up  to  the  Session." 

But  the  boys  were  irrepressible.  If  their  amusement  was  stopped  in  one  direction,  it 
would  have  free  course  in  another  : — 

"  Ther  wes  ane  complaint  §  given  in  upon  some  prentises  for  being  found  climbing  houses  and 
taking  bird  nests  in  tym  of  sirmon  yesterday,  the  parents,  viz.,  James  Irving  and  Thomas  Aime, 
weavers,  with  Magnus  Moir,  weaver,  and  Thomas  Grimbyster,  taylor,  for  their  prentises,  beins  all 
summoned,  the  Session,  finding  the  boyes  guiltie,  fined  ther  sds.  parents  and  masters  twenty  shilungs 
Scots  the  peice,  with  certification  if  the  saids  boyes  wer  found  in  the  lik  fault  heirafter  they  sould  pay 
dubble  the  fyn,  and  the  boyes  whipped  also." 

Sabbath  observance  was  frequently  the  subject  of  national  legislation,  and  in  this 
connection  it  is  interesting  to  notice  the  change  of  public  sentiment  on  the  Sunday  question 
at  different  periods.  In  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries,  under  the  Komish  Church,  the 
Government  interfered  to  regulate  Sunday  sports,  so  that  they  might  contribute  to  the  welfare 
and  safety  of  the  kingdom.  As  the  kirk  was  the  weekly  rendezvous  of  the  parishioners, 
Sunday  afternoon  was  considered  a  very  suitable  time,  and  the  neighbourhood  of  the  church 
a  fitting  field  for  the  practice  of  archery.  Accordingly  butts  were  set  up  and  prizes  were 
given  to  successful  competitors.  "Butquoy"  and  the  "Butts"  in  our  own  town,  and  in 
proximity  to  the  Cathedral,  commemorate  the  custom  as  it  obtained  here. 

In  the  fourteenth  parliament  of  James  II.,  convened  May  1457,  "  It  is  decreeted  and 
ordained  that  the  Fute-ball  and  Golfe  be  utterly  cryed  downe,  and  not  to  be  used,  and  that 
the  bowe-marks  be  maid  at  ilk  parish  Kirk  a  pair  of  Buttes,  and  schutting  be  used,  and  that 
ilk  man  schutte  six  schottes  at  the  least,  twa  penneyes  to  be  given  to  them  that  cummis  to 
the  bowe-markes,  to  drink.    And  that  there  be  a  bower  ||  and  a  fledgeat  in  ilk  head  town  of 

♦  S.  R.,  22nd  April  1649.        t  S.  R.,  18th  Aug.  1669.  J  S.  R.,  28th  Sept.  1670. 

§  S.  R.,  8th  June  1674.        i|  Bowyer  and  fletcher  or  arrowmaker. 


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RULE   OF  THE  CHUBCH.  423 

the  Schire.  And  as  tuiiching  the  fute-ball  and  the  golfe  to  be  punished  be  the  kingis 
officiares.  And  that  all  men,  that  is  within  fiftie  and  past  twelve  yeires,  sail  use  schutting." 
This  law  is  re-enacted  in  the  third  parliament  of  James  lY.,  1491. 

In  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  the  episcopalian  and  presbyterian  churches 
went  back  to  the  Mosaic  observance  of  the  Sabbath.  So  also  did  the  Qovemment  as  far  as 
legislation  was  concerned.  In  1663,  Charles  II.,  ^*  with  advice  and  consent  of  His  Estates  in 
Parliament,  doth  hereby  Statute,  Ordain,  and  Declare  That  all  and  every  such  person  or 
persons  who  shall  hereafter  ordinarly  and  wilfully  withdraw  and  absent  themselves  from  the 
ordinary  Meetings  of  divine  Worship  in  their  own  Paroch-Church  on  the  Lord's  day  shall 
thereby  incur  the  pains  and  penalties  underwritten,"  &c. 

Again,  in  1670,  this  same  king  "  Statutes,  Ordains,  and  commands  all  His  good  Subjects 
of  the  Reformed  Religion  within  this  Kingdom  to  attend  and  frequent  the  ordinary  Meetings 
appointed  for  Divine  Worship  in  their  own  Parish  Churches ;  Declaring  hereby  that  every 
such  person  who  shall,  three  Lord's  Dayes  together,  withdraw  and  absent  themselves  from 
their  own  Parish  Churches  without  a  reasonable  excuse,  shall  be  liable  to  the  pains  and 
penalties  following."    These  pains  and  penalties  were  very  heavy  fines. 

It  is  somewhat  amusing  to  notice  that,  while  these  Acts  were  issued  in  favour  of  prelacy 
as  against  presbytery,  it  was  under  them  that  the  presbyterians  of  Kirkwall  were  able,  in 
the  tyranny  of  the  following  century,  to  suppress  the  episcopalian  meeting-house. 

Down  to  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  Sunday  observance,  according  to  her  own 
regulations,  was  insisted  on  by  the  Church,  but  whether  the  change  is  for  the  better  or  for  the 
worse,  an  Act  of  Parliament  insisting  on  attendance  at  the  Parish  Church  is  now  an 
impossibility,  and  an  edict  of  the  Kirk  Session  on  the  subject  would  be  regarded  as  an 
absurdity. 

Breaches  of  the  Fifth  Commandment  have  never  been  common  ;  and,  with  regard  to  the 
Sixth,  the  clergy  show  themselves  remarkably  callous  : — "  Robert  Bellie,  ane  murderer,  being 
called  and  not  compeiring,  ordains  Mr  William  Davidson  to  cause  cite  him  pro  2do.  to  the 
nixt  meeting."*  "  Mr  William  Davidson  reported  that  Robert  Bellie,  murderer,  in  his  parish, 
could  not  compeir  to  this  dyet  becaus  of  his  sicknesse  ;  he  is  ordained  to  be  chairged  to  the 
nixt  meeting."t 

But  the  Seventh  Commandment  gave  the  ministers  more  work  than  all  the  rest  of  the 
Decalogue.  If,  however,  it  furnished  employment,  it  also  yielded  liberal  profit.  And  here  let 
it  be  said  that  in  the  ancient  ante  poor  law  days,  paupers  were  maintained  by  the  Church,  and 
that  mainly  out  of  the  fines  imposed  for  breaches  of  this  Commandment.  It  may  also  be 
stated  that,  in  her  dealing  with  the  poor,  the  Church  was  very  kindly,  and  wonderfully 
liberal. 

From  whatever  cause  it  arose,  the  fact  is  patent  that,  during  the  seventeenth  and 
eighteenth  centuries,  breaches  of  the  Seventh  Commandment  were  remarkably  numerous  in  all 
classes  of  society.  Almost  every  Session  meeting  had  a  new  case  to  take  up  or  an  old  one  to  deal 
with.  Without  doubt,  the  publicity  given  to  such  offences  tended  to  multiply  them,  and  in 
reading  Session  Records  one  is  almost  driven  to  the  conclusion  that  this  was  the  wish  of  the 
Church.  There  was  a  wonderful  uniformity  in  the  manner  in  which  these  cases  were  brought 
before  the  parochial  tribunal.  In  nearly  every  instance  a  fama  arose  about  the  unfortunate 
female  delinquent,  and  she  was  "  delated  "  to  the  Session.  In  most  cases  the  girl  was  at  the 
door  when  the  accusation  was  made,  and,  "  being  called,  compeired."  Generally  guilt  was 
admitted,  and  the  name  of  her  fellow-sinner  given.  Sometimes,  however,  there  was  an 
indignant  denial :— 11th  January  1703,  "Qlk  day  Ursilla  Groundwater  was  delated  of  some 
*  Presb.  R.,  Ist  May  1667.        t  6th  June. 


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424  KIRKWALL  IN  THE  ORKNEYS. 

scandaloas  carriage  with  James  Eunson,  in  Whytf ord ;  appoints  to  the  officer  to  charge  her  to 
the  nixt  Sess.  Day."  25th  Jan.,  "  Ursilla  Groundwater  called,  compeared,  and  denyed  any 
ground  for  the  said  sclander  alleged  against  her.  She  was  exhorted  and  referred  to  next  Sess. 
Day.  Appoints  to  charge  James  Eunson  to  the  said  Day."  On  the  1st  February,  the  parties 
again  "  compeared  and  denyed  anything  that  was  laid  to  their  charge  ;  the  Sess.,  considering 
that  there  was  noe  light  in  that  affair,  referred  the  same."  That  was  how  the  wily  inquisitors 
always  acted  in  such  cases ;  they  waited  for  ''  more  light  in  the  affair,"  and  the  light  usually 
came  in  a  few  weeks.  In  this  case  light  began  to  dawn  on  1st  March,  "  Qlk  day  the  Sess., 
being  informed  that  the  report  anent  James  Eunson  and  Ursilla  Groundwater  is  lyke  to  hold 
true,  appoynts  the  officer  to  charge  ym  both  to  the  nixt  day."  They  "compeired"  next 
Session  day  and  confessed. 

When  parties  "compeared  and  confessed,"  the  Session  dealt  with  them  according  to 
circumstances.  Ecclesiastical  courts  have  never  been  noted  for  their  impartiality  in  dealing 
with  either  clergy  or  laity.  In  the  nameless  delinquencies  under  consideration,  the  wealthy 
got  off  scatheless  if  they  chose  to  be  liberal  in  their  donations  of  coin  for  "  pious  uses,"  but 
the  poor,  who  could  not  pay,  or  could  only  pay  the  statutory  fine,  had  to  appear  on  the  "  stool 
of  repentance,"  and  if  they  could  pay  nothing  at  all,  probably  they  would  require  to  stand  in 
sackcloth  at  the  church  door  under  the  gaze  of  the  congregation  for  several  Sundays.  "  Adam 
Brebner,  from  Papa  Westra,  having  on  sundrie  times  appeared  now  in  publick  in  sacco,*  to 
the  number  of  threttie  timeSy  ordained  to  appear  nixt  Sabbath  in  sacco,  forenoon  &  afternoon, 
&  to  be  received."t 

There  is  not  in  Kirkwall  a  single  instance  of  any  person  of  means  appearing  in  sackcloth. 
On  the  contrary,  everything  was  made  easy  for  the  wealthy  penitent : — 

**  llth  March  1703. — After  Prayer.  Qlk  day  the  minister  represented  to  the  Session  that  Mr 
Legatt,  late  Stewart  Depute,  had  addressed  him  yesterday,  that  he  mieht  be  pleased  to  call  a  Session 
in  order  to  the  receaving  of  his  confession,  that  he  might  he  appoynted  to  his  satisfaction,  and  there- 
upon absolved,  that  there  might  be  noe  Impediment  in  the  way  of  his  marriage,  which  he  desyred 
might  be  accomplished  against  Mmiday  nixt,  he  being  to  remove  out  of  the  country,  as  he  supposed, 
which  the  Session  considering,  were  weill  pleased  that  the  said  Mr  Legat  and  Mrs:]:  Prince  should  be 
called  before  them  at  this  tyme  ;  and  accordinglie  being  called,  she  compeired  and  acknowledged 
her  guilt ;  the  sd.  Mr  Legat,  called,  compeared,  and  acknowledged  his  guilt,  and  both  of  them  sub- 
mitted and  promised  to  be  obedient  to  the  Session.  The  Session,  considering  ther  qualitie  and 
submission,  and  espe'alie  that  they  were  to  be  married  nixt  Lo/  Day,  did  therefore  agree  that  as  to 
the  penaltie  which  the  Baillie  Deputt  present  appoynted  should  be  modified  reasonablie,  and  because 
they  knew  Mr  Leeat  would  be  generous  enough  to  refer  it  to  himself.  As  to  their  satisfaction,  for 
the  reasons  forsaid,  the  Session  agrees  that  they  be  absolved  upon  the  first  appearance,  and  that  in  a 
dask  of  the  church,  where  they  may  most  convenientlie  sitt  nixt  Lo/  Day  ;  and  they  being  called,  the 
same  was  Intimat  to  them,  and  Mr  Legat  did,  for  their  penaltie,  give  a  ginny  and  two  crowns,  which 
the  Session  rested  satisfied  with,  and  both  of  them  promised  obedience  to  the  Session's  appoyntment 
as  to  their  satisfaction  nixt  Lo/  day." 

"  March  14,  1703. — Qlk  day  Mr  Legat  and  Helen  Prince  appeared,  and  being  rebuked,  were 
absolved." 

This  appearance  would  certainly  be  in  a  "  dask  "  where  no  one  could  see  them.  Compare 
Mr  Legates  case  with  the  following  : — 12th  Feb.  1670,  "  Compeared  Robert  Flett,  Cordiner, 
and  confessed  guilt  with  Margaret  Voy.  The  minister  and  elders  present  ordains  him  to  pay 
four  pounds  Scots,  and  ordains  the  scandal  to  be  removed  u\K>n  their  marriage  day  in  being 
humbled  on  their  knees  before  the  pulpit,  and  making  publick  confession  before  all  present " 

Sometimes  the  Church  was  impecunious,  and  would  give  favourable  terms  for  ready 
money  :— 14th  Nov.  1692,  "The  ministers  and  Magistrates  now  in  Session,  taking  to  considera- 
tion the  great  expense  the  fabrick  of  the  church  requires  for  its  mentenance,  and  comparing 

*  Sackcloth.        t  30th  April  1693.        t  Miss. 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHUBCH.  426 

yt  with  the  povertie  of  the  church  box,  condescended  yt  if  Arthur  Kendall,  now  delinquent, 
should  pay  in  ten  rix  dollars  to  the  thesaurer  he  should  be  absolved  and  received  in  the 
Session  house  before  the  Session." 

Arthur  gladly  accepted  the  terms  :— 18th  Nov.,  "  Qlk  day  Arthur  Bendall  gave  in  his 
penaltie,  qch  was  ten  rix  dollars  ;  he  was  this  day  absolved  before  the  Session."  He  further 
delighted  the  reverend  court  by  paying  for  his  fellow-sinner  "  two  cross  dollars." 

Persons  of  means  and  known  liberality  were  always  allowed  to  assess  themselves.  James 
Nisbet  of  Swannay,  16th  Feb.  1708,  "  offered  willinglie  to  the  Sess.,  for  his  and  the  woman's 
penaltie,  a  guinie  and  a  half,  wherewith  the  Session  rested  satisfied."  The  fines  for  this 
offence  were  graduated  : — "  Enacted  that  any  one  above  the  rank  of  a  servant  or  merchant 
falling  into  this  sin  shall  pay  four  dollars  as  their  penaltie,  by  and  attour  the  publick  penaltie." 
27th  May  1679,  "Thomas  Stewart,  Bailie,  gave  in  four  rix  dollars  in  name  and  behalf  of 
Patrick  Ballenden,  as  his  penaltie,  he  being  exempt  from  public  penance."  The  ordinary 
charge  in  Kirkwall,  as  laid  down  by  "My  lord  Bishop,  minister,  and  eldars,"  was  "thrie 
pounds  Scots,  That  is  to  say,  six  pound  for  both  parties  of  the  meanest  condition,  but  persones 
of  more  abilitie  ar  to  pay  conf orme  to  ther  qualitie."*  This  was  for  a  first  offence,  and  was 
increased  "  conforme  to  the  faults  in  the  said  sinne."  And  "  the  faults  in  the  said  sinne " 
were  duly  recorded  against  the  sinner,  each  under  its  proper  title.  The  first  fall  was  a  lapse  ; 
the  second,  relapse ;  the  third,  trelapse ;  the  fourth,  quadrilapse ;  the  fifth,  the  highest  shown 
in  the  Kirkwall  books,  a  quintilapse,  the  top  scorer  being  a  man  Hay,  in  Orphir,  who  was  very 
promptly  excommunicated.  The  fines  in  Kirkwall  were  probably  the  highest  in  Orkney.  It 
is  stated  that  the  ministers  and  elders  of  a  western  parish  ventured  to  issue  an  edict  that 
from  a  certain  date  the  fine  was  to  be  increased.  The  result  was  such  an  alarming  falling  off 
in  the  number  of  "  delations,"  and  consequent  "  povertie  of  the  church  box,"  that  the  Session 
was  compelled  to  revert  to  the  former  tariff. 

Considering  the  scarcity  of  money  in  Orkney  in  the  seventeenth  century,  six  pounds 
Scots  to  *'  those  of  the  meanest  condition,"  though  only  ten  shillings  sterling,  was  very  difficult 
to  raise.  In  the  relative  purchasing  power  of  money  then  and  now,  and  in  the  cost  of  labour, 
a  pound  Scots  would  run  far  into  a  pound  sterling  of  the  present  day.  Accordingly,  we  often 
find  that  parties  could  not  pay  ready  cash,  and  were  compelled  to  find  cautioners.  Sometimes 
a  father  became  surety  for  his  son,  a  friend  for  a  friend,  and  a  master  for  a  servant.  Where 
an  unfortunate  sinner  was  unable  to  find  caution,  he  had  to  deposit  in  the  hands  of  his 
ecclesiastical  creditors  some  kind  of  material  pledge  as  security  for  the  payment  of  his  debt  :  — 
4th  January  1671,  "Compeared  Thomas  Spence,  and  wes  ordained  to  pay  his  fine  and  relieve 
his  piece  of  gray  cloth  which  he  had  in  pledge,  which  he  promised  to  doe."  "  Magnus  Eunson, 
in  Muddisdale,  compeared,"  +  and  craved  baptism  for  his  son's  child  :— 

"  The  Session,  considering  that  his  said  son,  Robert  Eunson,  hath,  by  a  lettar  under  his  hand, 
owned  himself  to  be  the  father  of  Isobel  Linay,  her  child,  and  that  the  said  Magnus,  his  father,  hes 
bound  and  oblidged  himself  presantly  to  pay  in  penalty  for  his  son,  Robert,  three  pounds  Scotts 
money.  Therefore  the  Session  allows  the  child  to  be  baptised ;  and  for  the  said  Isobel  her  penalty, 
the  Session  being  Informed  that  there  is  a  seat  in  the  church  belonging  sometyme  to  her  Grandfather, 
whereof  the  said  Isobel  and  her  sister  are  in  possession,  and  that  the  said  Isobel  and  her  sister,  Jean, 
are  willing  to  dispense  with  all  right  and  title  they  have  to  the  said  seat  in  favours  of  Magnus  Taitt, 
in  Lingrow,  for  payment,  making  to  the  Session  of  the  said  Isoble's  penaltys,  and  the  said  Magnus 
being  presant,  and  undertaking  to  pay  for  the  said  Isobel  three  pounas  Scotts.  The  Session  allowed 
him  ane  act  of  the  said  seat  for  him,  his  spouse,  and  children's  bettar  accommodation  for  hearing  the 
goepell  preached.     Appoints  to  charge  the  said  Isobel  to  the  next  Session  day,  in  order  to  satisfaction." 

And  80  poor  Isobel  and  her  sister  had,  as  a  fine,  to  give  up  their  seat  in  church  that  the 

*  25th  Nov.  1672.        t  19th  Jnue  1721. 

31 


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42G  KIKKWALL   IN    THK  ORKNEYS. 

farmer  of  Lingro,  with  Iiim  wife  and  children,  might  have  "bettar  accommodation  for  hearing 
the  gospell  preached." 

E^lspeth  Linkletter,  *  who  had  been  contumacious,  w.-is  ordered  to  be  apprehended  and 
"put  up  in  Marwick's  hole  until  she  find  suretie."  This  was  too  dreadful,  so  Elspeth 
"  Compeired  and  promised  a  brown- rigged,  white-horned  three-year-old  cow."  The  following 
Monday,  Elspeth  appeared  with  her  beast,  and  crummie  *'  being  comprised  to  fyftie  fyve 
shilling  Scotts,  she  payed  the  foresaid  sowrae  in  pairt  of  payment."  How  or  when  she  paid 
the  balance  is  not  shown,  but  she  made  public  appearances  every  Sunday  till  the  10th  of  June. 

But  some  poor  sinners  had  not  a  piece  of  cloth  to  pledge,  a  cow  to  sell,  nor  a  pew  to 
surrender  ;  no  matter,  the  Church  would  have  her  pound  of  flesh.  **  Francis  Liddell,  called, 
compeired,  and  being  enquyred  for  his  penaltie,  replyed  he  had  it  not,  nor  could  he  get  any  to 
be  Caur.  ;  he  is  remitted  to  prison  untill  aither  he  pay  or  find  caution."  t  "  Jean  Anguson  to 
be  put  into  the  lyme  housed  till  she  finds  caution."  § 

But  while  the  Church  had  much  trouble  in  getting  in  some  of  her  dues,  and,  doubtless, 
made  a  few  bad  debts,  she  had  her  compensations  in  the  cheerful  manner  in  which  some  of 
her  erring  children  met  her  claims.  There  was  a  lively  young  skipper  who  paid  an  annual 
visit  to  Kirkwall,  and  as  surely  as  he  came,  there  was  a  fresh  baby  to  welcome  him — on  one 
occasion  two— so  that  one  of  h\»  earliest  calls  was  at  the  Session-house.  There  he  received  a 
cordial  welcome,  paid  a  guinea  for  himself  and  "  partie,"  promised  to  "  satisfy  "  as  soon  as  he 
could  find  time,  and  withdrew  smiling,  to  call  again  next  year. 

Then  there  was  the  case  of  Arthur  Murray,  a  wealthy  burgess,  with  whom,  unfortunately, 
the  Session  could  not  summarily  deal.  Arthur  was  a  trelapse,  and  must  therefore  be  referred 
to  the  Presbytery.  This  reverend  court,  "  considering  his  great  age  and  weakness  of  body 
and  seeming  repentance,"  sent  him  back  to  be  dealt  with  by  the  Session  of  Kirkwall.  The 
ministers  and  elders,  considering  specially  that  he  promised  to  pay  £200  Scots,  let  him  down 
as  softly  as  was  possible  in  the  circumstances.  This  money,  as  has  been  seen,  was  devoted  to 
the  erection  of  a  guard-house. 

Now  and  then,  as  may  well  be  imagined,  the  person  named  as  father  repudiated  paternity. 
In  such  cases  the  Church  referred  their  decision  to  the  oath  of  the  parties.  *^  Margaret 
Linklater  compeired  before  the  congregation,  who,  putting  her  one  hand  on  the  Bible  and  the 
other  on  the  child's  forehead,  swore  that  she  knew  no  other  man  to  be  the  father  of  her  child 
but  Adam  Hay." 

29th  October  1716,  '*  William  Ritchie  and  Margaret  Chalmers  appeared  before  the  congre- 
gation, and  after  they  had  been  seriously  exhorted,  the  said  William,  by  his  laying  his  left 
band  upon  the  child  and  holding  up  his  right  hand,  gave  his  oath  that  he  was  not  the  father 
of  that  child." 

29th  August  1722,  "  Reported  that  John  Garrioch  and  Isobel  Anderson  had  appeared 
before  the  congregation,  Sabbath  Last,  and  that,  after  a  sermon  suitable  to  the  said  John's 
caice,  on  Zech.  6th  and  3rd,  he  was  most  seriously  dealt  with  by  the  Minr.,  before  the  congre- 
gation, to  confess  if  guilty,  but  he,  persisting  in  his  denyall,  and  the  woman,  tho'  desyred, 
giving  no  oyr.  fayr.,  at  Length  the  Minr.  tendered  the  oath  of  purgation  to  the  said  John." 

*'  The  said  Isobell  was  summoned  to  this  dyet  of  Session,  who,  being  called,  compeared,  and 
being  now  desyred  to  confess.  Seeing  John  Garrioch  had  pur^^ed  himself  bv  oath,  she  denyed  to  ffive 
any  oyr.  fayr.,  whereupon  the  Session,  Oonsiderins  That  she  is  a  Most  wicked,  vile  person,  and  wat 
if  some  corporal  punishment  be  inflicted,  she  May  be  brought  to  a  Confession,  and  she  having  nothins 
to  pay  as  a  pecunial  mulct,  wes  referred  to  the  Magistrates  p'nt,  who  appoynted  her  to  be  imprisoned 

♦  22nd  Jan.  1683.        t  6th  July  1703. 
X  North  transept  chapel,  then  used  as  a -store-house.        §  16th  Jan.  1694. 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHURCH.  427 

by  the  ofBcer  in  Marwick*8  hole,  the  common  prison  for  such  delinquents,  untill  the  rest  of  the  Magis^. 
trates  have  occasion  to  meet  with  the  Session,  and  that  this  be  reported  to  the  Preby.  Meanwhile, 
b^  the  Magistrates'  advice,  allows  6/  to  be  given  to  the  officer  for  her  Maintenance  and  the  child's 
till  the  said  meeting  of  the  Session." 

At  the  next  meeting  of  Session,  Isobel  gets  a  very  bad  character  indeed— "Vile,  scandalous 
person,  a  vagrant,  sturdy  beggar,  and  a  suborner,"  is  the  best  they  say  of  her ;  and,  3rd 
September,  *'  Reported  that  the  Magistrates  had  caused  put  her  out  of  the  Town  by  the  hand 
of  the  hangman/' 

Nothing  incensed  the  Session  so  much  as  the  failure  of  parties  to  "com pair''  when 
summoned,  and  the  untiring  tenacity  with  which  the  Church  Courts  stuck  to  the  trail  of 
fugitives,  is  worthy  of  admiration  : — 15th  March  1686,  '*  Compeired  James  Anguson,  and 
confessed,  is  ordained  to  produce  his  penalty  next  day  and  to  enter  in  the  profession  of  his 
repentance  next  Lord's  day."  But  James  did  not  appear  next  day,  and,  though  his  case  was 
brought  up  at  each  meeting  of  Session,  not  till  next  year  could  they  get  hold  of  the  culprit 
himself : — 21st  February  1687,  "  James  Anguson  compeired,  and  was  committed  to  the 
Magistrates  till  he  find  surety  for  his  satisfying  church  discipline."  Again  he  escaped,  and 
after  three  years  of  contumacy  on  his  part,  the  Church  proceeded  to  vengeance  by  putting  in 
force  the  deadliest  instrument  of  superstition,  ex-communication.  The  various  steps  in  this 
process  have  a  peculiar  interest.  The  Presbytery,  taking  into  consideration  the  sinner's^ 
heinous  offence,  solemnly  enjoins  the  minister  to  pray  for  him  once.  How  suitable  to  human 
necessities  is  a  church  whose  direst  threat  is  an  order  to  pray  for  a  poor  backslider.  This  was 
to  be  repeated  on  three  several  occasions,  after  which  the  minister  pronounced 

*'  That  awful  doom  which  canons  tell. 
Shuts  paradise  and  opens  hell, 
Anathema  of  power  so  dread. 
It  blends  the  living  with  the  dead  ; 
Bids  each  good  angel  soar  away. 
And  every  ill  one  claim  his  prey, 
Expels  him  from  the  church's  care 
And  deafens  Heaven  against  his  prayer." 

Anguson  did  not  wait  for  all  this,  it  was  too  terrible  :—  18th  March  1689,  "  The  sd.  day 
James  Anguson,  after  his  long  obstinacie  and  absence  from  the  Session,  was  brought  in  be  the 
officers,  wherefore  the  Session  unanimously  resolve  that  he  should  be  carried  to  Marwick's 
Hole  till  next  Sabbath,  and  from  thence  to  be  put  in  the  joggs  'twixt  first  and  second  bell, 
and  then  to  be  carried  to  the  stool  of  repentance,  where  he  is  to  stand  during  sermon  with  an 
inscription  upon  bis  head  in  paper,  in  capital  letters."  But  one  such  appearance  was  not 
sufficient  for  such  a  rebel  as  Anguson,  though  the  culprit  himself  thought  he  had  been 
sufficiently  punished,  and  he  again  absconded,  but  was  caught  and  imprisoned  : — 15th  August^ 
"  Compeared  James  Anguson  from  prison  for  his  contumacie,  and  the  Session  determined  he 
should  continue  in  prison  till  nixt  Sabbath  day,  from  thence  to  be  brought  to  the  publick  place 
of  repentance,  where  he  shall  stand,  bare-foot  and  bare-leged,  till  he  be  rebuked." 

Nowhere  in  Scotland  could  a  fugitive  hope  to  escape  the  grip  of  the  Church.  Robert 
Erskine,  notary  public,  had  made  a  lapse  in  Edinburgh  in  1668.  He  came  to  Kirkwall,  estab- 
lished himself  in  business,  and  probably  thought  that  after  four  years  bygones  were  forgotten, 
when,  15th  April  1672,  "  Ther  wes  ane  letter  produced  by  my  Lord  Bishop,  which  was  sent  to 
this  place  from  Mr  Cameron,  clerk  to  the  Session  of  the  College  Kirk  in  Edinburgh,  shewing 
that  Robert  Erskyu,  now  residentar  in  Kirkwall,"  had  been  guilty,  "  desyring  also  that  my 
Lord  Bishop  would  tak  ane  e£fectual  course  for  his  compearance  before  them."    27th  May, 


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428  KIKKWALl.    IN    THU   ORKNEYS. 

"Cumpeired  Robert  Erskyn  and  confessed.  Moreover,  he  declared  he  wes  willing  to  pay 
what  pecunial  mulct  they  thought  expedient,  and  that  he  wes  most  willing  to  give  his 
persouall  presence  and  publick  satisfaction  when  it  pleased  God  he  arryved  ther.  But  that 
he  could  not  have  the  libertie  to  go  now  in  respect  of  his  publick  employment  both  in  this 
towne  and  countrey,  having  severall  gentlemen's  business  of  great  consequence  now  in 
agitation."  24th  March  1673,  ''Compeired  Robert  Erskyn,  and  declared  that  Tankemess,  by 
his  order,  had  payed  his  fyne  to  the  College  Kirk,  and  that  Mr  Robert,  my  Lord  Bishop's 
Sonne,  had  received  two  letters  theranent."  Nevertheless,  the  following  week,  two  of  the 
elders  called  "  to  acquaint  Robert  Erskyn  that  the  Session  orders  him  to  send  for  ane  testificate 
from  the  Session  of  the  College  Kirk  of  Edinburgh,  which  may  testifie  that  he  hes  satisfied 
the  orders  of  the  Kirk." 

The  stool  of  repentance  was  in  the  upper  front  corner  of  the  seamen's  loft,  and,  as  it  was 
in  constant  use,  its  occupants  excited  no  interest  in  the  eyes  of  ordinary  church-goers.  But 
the  institution  does  not  exist  out  of  which  boys  cannot  extract  some  amusement.  4th 
December  1671,  '*  Compeired  Duncan  Gag,  and  denyed  throwing  of  staples,  but  confessed  that 
Edward  Chester  and  Hercules  Hay,  servitours  to  Andrew  Corner,  stood  at  the  back  of  the 
seamen's  loft  and  threw  some.  Referrs  the  two  boys  to  the  masters  to  cause  whipp  them." 
Again,  7th  July  1673,  "  Compeired  Alexander  Chisholm,  and  was  scharplie  rebuked  for 
casting  tobacco  staples  at  the  delinquent  in  the  stool  of  repentance,  contrair  to  ane  act  of  the 
Session  made  thereanent."    He  was  fined  ten  grotts. 

Marriages  were  a  source  of  income  to  the  Church,  and,  as  anti-nuptial  offences  were  so 
common,  there  was  very  frequently  a  fine  as  well  as  a  fee.  This  state  of  matters  required 
special  legislation.  Hence,  on  Monday,  13th  May  1689,  "  It  was  enacted  that  none  should  be 
contracted  until  such  time  as  they  deposit  their  pledges  in  the  Clerk's  hands."  This  Act  was 
amended  :— 

"  The  Session,*  taking  into  consideration  that  some  are  found  faulty  in  coming  together  before 
marriage,  of  whom  little  or  no  penalty  can  be  had,  and  some  who  marry  and  are  not  faultv  that  way, 
yet  come  short  of  paying  their  marriage  mo'ie, — Therefore,  and  because  the  Session  finds  that  it  is  the 
practice  of  several  other  Sessions,  and  in  time  past  the  practice  of  this,  to  take  pledges  from  the 
parties  contracted  in  order  to  marriage.  The  Session,  with  the  advice  of  the  Magistrates,  as  reported 
Dy  one  of  the  minrs.,  revives  the  former  practice  of  taking  pledges  from  the  persons  to  be  married, 
and  enact  that  in  time  coming  the  Session  clerk,  or  whoever  of  the  Session  shall  contract  any  pair, 
that  they  take  pledges  to  the  value  of  ten  shillings  ster. ,  to  be  forfeited  by  the  sds.  persons  ;  and  in 
case  of  no  fault  being  found,  the  pledges  to  be  returned  whole  after  payment  of  the  church  dues." 

Intricate  physiological  problems  sometimes  attached  themselves  to  those  pledges.  George 
Anderson  and  his  wife  lay  under  suspicion.  The  Session,  careful  as  to  its  facts,  found  that 
their  first  child  was  bom  eight  months  and  four  days  after  their  marriage.  The  parents,  how- 
ever, stoutly  denied  guilt,  and  brought  forward  Janet  Robertson,  the  most  skilful  accoucheuse 
in  Kirkwall,  with  two  other  women,  Janet  Irvine  and  Jean  Linay,  specialists  in  the  natural 
history  of  babies,  who  all  declared  that,  to  the  best  of  their  knowledge,  the  baby  was  a  seven 
months'  child.    "  Wherefor  sists  any  process,  and  appoints  his  obligation  to  be  given  up." 

These  pledges  occasionally  raised  nice  questions  of  inter-parochial  law : — 15th  October 
1712,  '*  Appoints  to  charge  Thomas  Boog  and  his  wife  to  the  next  Session." 

20th  October,  *' Thomas  Boog  and  his  wife,  Hallon  Hendrie,  called,  compeared,  and 
acknowledged  their  fault.  They  being  rebuked,  were  appointed  to  enter  to  their  satisfaction 
next  Lord's  Day  ;  and  as  to  their  penalty,  they  say  they  pledged  a  crown  in  Graemsay'sf  hand 
in  the  paroch  of  Orphir,  which  crown  they  were  content  should  be  forthcoming  to  this  Session. 
Appoints  to  write  to  the  minister  of  Orphir  theranent." 
*  7th  March  1715.       t  Honyman  of  Grsmsay  lived  at  Clestrain,  and  was  an  elder  in  Orphir  Kirk. 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHURCH.  429 

17th  November,  '^fieported  that  the  ministers,*  having  occasion,  spoke  the  minr.  of 
Orphirt  anent  the  crown  pledged  by  Thomas  Boog ;  he  said  the  Session  wonld  not  give  it. 
Beferrs  the  matter  to  the  Presb'rie." 

9th  March  1713,  "  Reported  from  the  Presb'rie  yt.  ye  crown  left  by  Thomas  Boog  in  the 
hands  of  the  Session  of  Orphir,  was  appointed  by  the  Presb'rie  to  be  given  up  by  them  to  the 
Session  of  Kirkwall.    Appoints  therefor  to  write  to  the  Sess.  of  Orphir  yranent." 

23rd  March,  '*  Thomas  Boog  having  returned  from  Orphir,  coropeired  and  gave  in  the 
crown  he  had  got  back  from  that  Session.  The  Sess.,  considering  his  povertie,  gave  him  back 
the  half  of  it." 

But  it  was  in  dealing  with  the  worst  cases— unhappy  marriages— that  the  Church  Courts 
most  signally  failed.  A  matter  which  the  Divorce  Court  would  now  decide  in  a  short  sitting, 
might,  by  the  Church  tribunals,  be  protracted  for  months,  during  which  the  unhappy  re- 
spondent was  battledored  from  Session  to  Presbytery,  and  from  Presbytery  back  to  Session, 
undergoing  numerous  examinations,  each  succeeding  trial  being  a  reproduction  of  its  prede- 
cessor to  the  minutest  details.  This  marks  a  strong  contrast  with  penal  procedure  under  the 
old  regime.    Home's  penal  methods  were  swift,  silent,  and  effective. 

On  the  other  hand,  when,  under  Protestant  episcopacy,  vice  had  become  a  fruitful  source 
of  income  even  to  the  bishops,  it  was,  if  not  encouraged,  at  least  greatly  increased  by  the 
publicity  given  it.  On  entering  church,  the  congregation  had  weekly  to  pass  through  a  group 
of  penitents,  hideous  to  look  at  in  their  garbs  of  sordid  sackcloth,  and  the  address  of  the 
clergyman  to  the  occupant  of  the  White  Stone  or  of  the  Stool  of  Repentance,  repeated  every 
Sunday,  ceased  to  raise  a  blush  on  the  cheek  of  the  most  susceptible.  The  Cutty  Stool  gave  a 
notoriety  which  the  loutish  intelligence  regarded  as  fame  cheaply  bought  at  the  cost  of  the 
statutory  fine. 

To  a  delinquent  who  had  any  respect  for  his  own  person,  the  most  revolting  punishment 
this  protestant  inquisition  could  inflict  was  to  drape  him  in  sackcloth  supplied  from  the 
Cathedral  wardrobe.  St.  Magnus  had  a  large  stock  of  these  robes,  yet  in  the  heyday  of  the 
Church's  rule  they  were  in  such  demand  that  penitent  sinners  often  had  to  wait  their  turn 
for  several  Sundays  before  they  could  be  suited.  The  poorer  the  offender  the  more  quickly 
was  he  supplied.  Thus  these  sackcloth  gowns  became  very  filthy,  and  when  not  in  actual  use 
were  flung  into  a  heap  in  the  Limehouse. 

And  so  it  came  about  that  in  the  days  of  the  Commonwealth,  when  there  was  no  bishop 
in  Kirkwall,  and  when  the  presence  of  Cromwell's  Independents  inspired  a  wish  for  release 
from  ecclesiastical  tyranny,  delinquents  doomed  to  sackcloth  began  to  provide  their  own 
wraps.  Judging  that  the  odium  of  the  punishment  lay  in  the  distinguishing  garb,  and  not  in 
the  filth,  young  men  did  penance  at  the  church  door— doubtless  at  first  to  the  great  amuse- 
ment of  the  passers  by— robed  in  white  linen  sheets.  This  burlesque  of  Church  discipline — 
depravity  clothed  in  the  garb  of  innocence — must  have  galled  the  clergy,  but  for  a  time  they 
had  to  submit.  Their  turn  came,  however,  as  shown  by  a  minute  of  Synod,  8th  October 
1663:— 

**  The  Moderator  having  made  ane  motion  anent  ane  abuse  (wch.  by  tyme  has  crupen  in)  in  the 
mfiuier  of  the  habite  of  adulterers,  triple  or  quadruple  ffomicators,  in  their  public  repentances,  to  be 
in  Linzies  or  ane  whyte  scheite,  and  not  in  sack  cloath, — It  is  yrfor  ordained  (for  taking  away  the 
said  abuse  as  ane  improper  habite  for  such  peynitentiaries)  that  in  tyme  coming,  adulterers,  triple 
and  quadruple  ffomicators,  be  not  permitted  to  mak  yr.  publick  repentances  in  Linzies  or  whyte 
scheites.  Hot  in  sack  cloath,  according  to  custom  and  former  Discipline  and  Ordinances  of  the  Kirk  of 
Scotland." 

*  Mr  Thomas  Baikie,  Mr  Andrew  Ker.        t  Mr  Edward  Irving. 


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430  KIRKWALL   IN   THK   ORKNEYS. 

The  clergy  were  completely  successful  in  re-establishiDg  their  sackcloth.  On  the  20th 
November  1682,  a  man,  Marwick,  was  imprisoned  because  **  he  said,  in  face  of  Session,  that 
that  hemp  or  lint  was  not  sawed  yet  which  would  be  a  sack  cloath  to  him."  But  Marwick 
appeared  in  sackcloth  on  Sunday,  10th  December. 

The  Ninth  Commandment,  taking  charge  of  our  neighbour's  good  name,  was  often 
broken,  and  slander,  as  might  be  expected,  was  a  sin  with  which  the  Session  had  frequently 
to  deal.  In  the  little  community,  where  everybody  was  known  to  every  one  else,  there  was 
seldom  any  difficulty  in  arriving  at  the  truth,  though,  for  the  satisfaction  of  parties,  strings  of 
witnesses  would  be  patiently  examined  by  the  ministers  and  elders.  The  most  common 
punishments  for  this  misdemeanour  were  public  rebuke  on  the  white  stone,  the  jougs,  or 
imprisonment.  The  jougs  consisted  of  a  hinged  iron  collar  attached  by  a  short  chain  to  a 
building.  The  victims  of  the  jougs  had  their  necks  enclosed  in  the  collar,  which  was  then 
secured  by  a  padlock.  In  Kirkwall  there  were  two  of  these  necklets — one  at  the  kirk  door 
and  the  other  on  the  Market  Gross. 

19th  January  1674,  '*  Compeired  Elspeth  Sutherland,  and  for  slandering  Qilbert  Meason, 
as  wes  alreadie  proven,  and  becaus  she  failed  in  her  probation  in  offering  to  prove  that  the 
said  Qilbert  bedded  with  Margret  Cromartie,  Therefor  the  Session  hes  referred  the  sd.  Elspeth 
to  the  Magistrates  present  to  be  personallie  punished.  Who  have  ordained  her  to  be  putt  in 
the  joggs  at  the  Cross,  and  to  stand  ther  two  houres,  with  ane  paper  on  her  breast  showing 
the  reasons  of  her  standing  so  in  that  place ;  and  lykewayes  she  enacted  herself,  under  the 
paine  of  being  scourged  threw  the  tuwne  by  the  hangman,  not  to  slander  the  sd.  Gilbert,  or 
Margt,  or  any  other  person  whatsomever  in  this  congregation." 

29th  August  1688,  Marion  Delday  condemned  to  stand  two  hours  in  the  *' joggs"  for 
"abusing  John  Craigie  with  her  opprobrious  words  and  base  language."  It  may  be  here 
remarked  that  John  Craigie  was  an  elder. 

Isobel  Drummond  refrains  from  compearing  when  called,  is  condemned  to  '^  staud  in  the 
jogges  at  the  church  dore  the  nixt  Sabbath  betwixt  the  second  and  third  bell." 

These  instances  mark  a  distinction.  The  Magistrates  send  the  culprit  to  the  jougs  on  the 
Market  Cross,  the  Session  to  the  church  door.  That  ministers  could  treat  poor  sinners  in  such 
high-handed  fashion,  necessitates  the  existence  of  a  univertial  and  deep-rooted  superstitious 
belief  in  the  preternatural  wisdom  and  power  of  the  clergy.  This  was  the  one  superstition 
which  the  Church  encouraged,  while  she  rigorously  suppressed  all  lay  pretence  to  a  knowledge 
of  the  hidden  mysteries.  Accordingly  we  find  Session  and  Presbytery  dealing  with  persons 
who  used  "  charms."  *'  Appoynts  every  minister,  in  their  severall  paroches,  to  inhibite  all 
charming  and  consulting  with  charmers,  and  to  bring  in  to  the  presbyterie  a  list  of  such  as 
shall  be  found  guiltie  of  this  sin,  that  they  may  be  censured."* 

The  idea  that  some  persons  were  endowed  with  the  power  of  looking  into  futurity, 
through  league  with  familiar  spirits,  is  almost  as  old  as  humanity.  In  the  eighteenth  chapter 
of  Deuteronomy,  we  have  reference  to  nine  separate  and  distinct  modes  of  divination.  In  all 
countries,  and  under  all  religious,  this  superstition  has  flourished.  What  we  know  as  witch* 
craft  is  merely  an  adaptation  to  Christian  teaching  of  what  was  believed  by  our  pagan 
ancestors.  The  Church  teaches  that  there  is  an  enemy  to  God  and  man,  who  is  virtually 
omniscient  and  omnipresent ;  that  this  arch-fiend  is  assisted  by  an  innumerable  host  of 
subordinate  demons  ;  and  the  witch  or  wizard  of  Christian  times  is  simply  the  woman  or  man 
who  can  command  the  services  of  one  of  these  devils. 

As  far  back  as  the  22ud  chapter  of  Exodus,  we  have  the  command,  ^  Thou  shalt  not  suffer 
a  witch  to  live";  and  this  injunction  has  been  the  excuse  all  over  Christendom  for  much 

♦  Synod  R.,  5th  July  1666. 


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RULE  OF  THE   CHURCH.  431 

horrible  cruelty.  In  Scotland,  the  law  first  recognised  witchcraft  as  a  crime  in  1563.  When 
James  VI.  brought  home  his  newly-wed  Queen,  Anne  of  Denmark,  1689,  the  Scottish  witches 
held  a  great  convention  at  North  Berwick,  and  raised  a  storm  for  the  purpose  of  drowning 
the  king,  he  being  the  greatest  enemy  that  their  master,  Satan,  had.  For  this,  thirty  un- 
fortunates were  executed  on  the  Castle  Hill  in  Edinburgh.  Raising  storms  and  the  devil  at 
the  same  time  was  a  favourite  diversion  of  witches.  Margaret  Cromartie  was  before  the 
Session  of  Kirkwall,  4th  September  1676,  as  **  one  of  the  personos  that  raised  the  divell  at  the 
last  storme."  Witch-burning  in  Scotland  came  to  a  height  about  1660,  and  then  gradually 
died  out,  the  last  fire  being  at  Dornoch  in  1722. 

Under  the  Stewart  Earls,  a  charge  of  witchcraft  was  sometimes  trumped  up  as  an  excuse 
to  confiscate  lands :— "  Be-North-The-Gait,  in  Swanbister,  perteining  to  the  Sutherlands, 
fallen  in  escheat  to  my  Lord  for  witchcraft."* 

At  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth,  witches  were 
very  numerous  in  Orkney:  —  "Wosbuster,  perteining  to  Elspet  Marsetter,  witche"t; 
"  Halkland,  perteining  to  Anne  Marsetter,  witche " ;  "  Jonet,  of  Cara,  quha  wes  brunt  for 
witchcraft "  J  ;  "  Alisoun,  Margret's  daughter,  brunt  for  witchcraft."  §  21st  September  1693, 
^'Qlk  day  there  wes  ane  delation  brought  in  against  one,  Jane  Seater,  banished  from  Westra 
for  supposed  witchcraft." 

Now  that  witches  are  safe  from  burning,  we  have  still  here  and  there  among  us  a  wretched 
old  woman  claiming  supernatural  powers,  and  trading  on  the  superstition  of  those  around 
her.  II 

The  Kirkwall  Registers  of  Baptisms,  Marriages,  and  Deaths  must  be  among  the  oldest 
extant  in  Scotland.  Baptisms  and  marriages  were  recorded  in  Cromwell's  time,  and  the 
register  of  deaths  was  initiated  by  Bishop  Honyman,  who  seems  to  have  been  an  excellent 
business  man,  and,  next  to  Law,  the  most  public-spirited  and  useful  of  the  post-Reformation 
prelates. 

''Thomas  Dinchingtoune,  Precentor  and  Session  Clerk,  produced  IT  ane  new  re^ster  of  all 
baptisms,  contracts,  marriages  since  Januar  1657,  and  of  the  defuncts  in  this  congregation  since  my 
lord  Bishop's  direction  in  1666,  untill  the  dait  of  thir  p'nts,  together  with  ane  other  new  book,  to  be 
ane  register  of  all  Session  Acts  and  business,  as  weil  of  preceidmg  acts  not  as  yet  filled  up  or  insert, 
but  also  of  future  acts  as  the  sd.  book  will  containe  during  his  tym.  Quhairanent,  My  Lord  Bishop, 
Minr.,  and  eldars  present,  haveing  considered  the  said  Thomas  his  paines  in  filling  up  the  said  first 
book,  and  what  pains  it  will  cost  him  in  filling  the  salds  acts.  Therefor  they  have  ordained  the  said 
Thomas  to  have  for  his  said  pains  Thrittie-six  pound  Scotts  out  of  the  first  and  readiest  that  shall 
oome  into  the  box,  becaus  the  Thesaurer  declares  that  the  box  is  not  weil  furnished  for  the  present." 

In  the  olden  time  the  horrible  belief  prevailed  that  the  soul  of  an  unbaptised  child  could 
not  enter  heaven.  So  strong  was  this  hideous  superstition,  that  baptism  was  regarded  as  a  fitting 
subject  for  imperial  legislation.  In  the  twenty-third  Parliament  of  James  VL,  August  1621, 
"  Our  Soveraigne  Lord,"  in  "  satification  of  the  Five  Articles  of  the  General  Assembly  halden 
at  Perth,"  ordains  that  "  The  Minister  shall  often  admonish  the  people  that  they  defer  not  the 
baptising  of  infants  any  longer  than  the  next  Lord's  day  after  the  child  be  borne,  unlesse  upon 
a  great  and  reasonable  cause  declared  to  the  Minister,  and  by  him  approved." 

Sailors  seem  to  have  held  strong  views  with  regard  to  infant  baptism.  Elspeth  Suther- 
land had  been  in  service  in  Edinburgh,  and  returned  home  to  give  birth  to  a  child.    "  Ordains 

*  Pet.  Rent.,  ii.  27.        +  Pet.  Rent.,  ii.  43.        t  Pet.  Rent.,  ii.  94.        §  Pet.  Rent.,  iii.  183. 

II  The  present  vrriter,  about  a  dozen  years  ago,  in  adjusting  grazing  rights  between  neighbours, 
was  threatened  by  one  of  them  with  a  speedy  end  to  his  life  if  he  interfered  to  her  disadvantage,  and 
the  deaths  of  two  men  well-known  in  the  parish  were  claimed  by  her  as  due  to  their  interference  in 
her  affiurs.  1  17th  Sept.  1671. 


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432  KIRKWALL   IN  tHfi  ORKNEYS. 

• 

the  said  Elspeth  to  goe  to  Edinburgh  and  make  satisfaction  for  her  sin  committed  ther,  and  if 
she  returne  to  this  countrey,  ordains  hir  to  bring  ane  testimonial  and  absolvitur  with  her, 
under  the  pain  of  banishment  by  the  civil  Magistrate.  Lykways  ordains  hir  child  to  be 
baptised,  becaus  she  affirmes  that  no  ship  will  except  hir  companie  unles  the  child  be 
baptised."  * 

The  first  baptism  on  the  Edrkwall  roll  is  Margaret,  daughter  of  Oliver  linay,  22nd  Feb. 
1667.  This  little  girl  died  young,  for,  a  few  years  later,  we  find  Anna  recorded  as  Oliver 
linay's  only  child. 

In  the  baptismal  register  we  have  the  names  of  many  of  Cromwell's  soldiers.  One  of 
them,  the  first  of  three  who  registered  illegitimates,  gave  in  what  was  apparently  a  name 
assumed  for  the  occasion,  but  which,  in  keeping  with  his  character  as  one  of  the  **  saints," 
could  scarcely  be  called  false.    He  enters  himself  as  "  James  Ego,  soldier." 

The  Church  had  a  great  deal  to  say  about  marriage,  and  laid  down  rules  towards 
preserving  decorum,  for  every  breach  of  which  penalties  were  exacted.  The  opening  of  the 
Register  of  Marriages  gives  these  rules  at  length  :— 

"  PrsBcognita. 
"In  each  subsequent  contract  these  material  points  following  are  te  be  understood  (church  not 
expressed) : — ^ffirst,  tne  Minister  and  eldars  contracts,  and  asks,  and  requires  the  parents,  or  nearest 
relations  concerned,  ther  consent  to  the  marriage.  Nixt,  if  aither  of  the  parties  come  from  another 
parish,  they  ar  to  produce  ane  testificate  from  ther  respective  minister  and  eldars,  or  find  caution  for 
that  effect  befor  they  have  the  benefite  of  Marriage.  Thirdlie,  each  persone  to  be  contracted  ar  to 
bring  a  Cautioner  along  with  them,  who  oblidge  and  enact  themselves  that  the  persones  for  whom 
they  ar  Caution  shall  accomplish  ther  marriage  within  fourtie  days,  and  they  shall  abstain  from 
scandalous  conversing  or  dealing  befor  ther  marriage,  and  that  under  the  pain  of  ten  pounds  Scotts,  to 
be  paid  in  to  the  Kirk.     And,  Lastlie,  the  parties  contracted  enacts  for  ther  Cautioners." 

The  first  entry  is  :— "  1657,  Januar  5,  William  Irving  and  Margaret  Ballenden." 

In  the  last  three  years  of  Cromwell's  rule,  no  fewer  than  fifteen  of  the  English  soldiers 
stationed  in  Kirkwall  married  Orcadian  wives  ;  and,  as  it  is  only  of  these  three  years  we  have 
any  record,  it  is  fair  to  infer  that  other  Englishmen  married  in  Kirkwall.  One  pair  had  some 
little  trouble  :— "  1658,  Augt.  21, — Roger  Robinsone,  english  souldier,  and  Elspeth  Spence  wer 
contracted  (ther  being  no  minister  yn  in  this  toune)  by  William  and  Patrick  Spence,  and 
James  Morrisone,  eldars— -they  wer  married  in  Firth  by  Mr  John  Hendrie." 

A  widow  thinking  of  returning  to  double  harness  had  to  be  able  to  give  certain  proof  of 
the  death  of  her  former  yoke-fellow  : — "  1662,  Oct.  1,  John  Norie  and  Jean  Linay  wer  con- 
tracted by  Mr  James  Reid  and  Patrick  Halcro,  after  that  Magnus  Gunn  and  Harie  trott  had 
declared  that  they  bad  seen  umqle  David  Qalliard,  late  spouse  to  the  said  Jean,  drowned  in 
the  water  of  Shane,t  at  Corbesdail  f eight." 

This  was  simple  enough,  but  in  the  case  of  a  sailor  of  whom  nothing  had  been  heard  for 
years,  there  was  more  difficulty.  Alexander  Sutherland  and  Margaret  Dreaver  wished  to 
marry,  but  Margaret  could  not  prove  the  death  of  her  first  husband,  Magnus  Work,  of  whom 
nothing  had  been  heard  for  ten  years.  The  Session  referred  the  matter  to  the  Presbytery,  and 
that  Court  decided  that  Margaret  should  not  be  hampered  by  Magnus  any  longer,  but,  to  be 
in  order,  she  must  "  summond  him  legally  at  the  mercat  cross  of  Edinburgh  and  at  the  shoar 
and  pier  of  Leith,  and  obtaine  a  sentence  of  none  adherence  against  him  from  the  Commissrs. 
of  Edr." 

As  has  been  seen,  the  consent  of  parents  was  required,  and  in  most  cases  it  was  given. 
Sometimes,  when  consent  was  refused,  the  Church  would  take  a  common-sense  view  of  the 
case,  and,  disregarding  irate  and  unreasonable  fathers,  would  assert  its  jurisdiction  and  act  in 

*  13th  May  1678.        t  Shin. 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHURCH.  433 

loco  parentis  to  both  the  contracted  persons.  On  the  2nd  November  1670,  Stewart  of  Brogh 
writes  to  stop  the  proclamation  of  his  daughter's  marriage  with  young  Mudie  of  Melsetter. 
On  the  16th,  old  Mudie  writes  to  stop  his  son's  proclamation.  It  was  plainly  a  case  of 
Montague  and  Capulet— the  heads  of  the  houses  were  at  deadly  feud,  and  the  young  people 
were  expected  to  take  up  the  quarrel.  But  William  Mudie,  yr.,  and  Barbara  Stewart  also 
write  that  they  are  free  persons,  twice  proclaimed,  and  demand  the  third  proclamation.  The 
Bishop  and  Session  sided  with  the  young  people,  and  they  were  married  accordingly. 

Persons  contracted  bound  themselves  to  marry  "  within  fourtie  days,"  and  no  doubt  this 
was  generally  done,  but  sometimes  the  contract  could  not  be  carried  out.  Thus,  17th  August 
1672,  Magnus  Irving,  weaver,  and  Inga  Dreaver  were  contracted,  but  "the  woman  took 
seickness  and  died."  Besides,  forty  days  was  a  long  time  for  a  woman's  mind  to  remain 
unchanged. 

In  July  1676,  Gilbert  Meason  was  summoned  to  appear  before  the  Session  "  becaus  of 
breach  of  contract  of  marriage  betwixt  him  and  Margret  Croraartie."  At  next  meeting, 
"  Compeired  Gilbert  Meason  and  declared  that  he  wes  not  the  partie  breaker  of  his  contract  of 
marriage  with  Margret  Cromartie,  but  desired  that  the  said  Margret  sould  be  cited  to  give  in 
the  reasones  of  hir  delay."  Accordingly,  Margaret  appeared  and  admitted  that  "  she  wes  the 
partie  breaker  of  the  contract,  and  that  she  wes  unwilling  to  be  married  to  the  said  Gilbert." 
There  being  no  fault  alledged  against  the  man,  "  she  wes  ordained  to  pay  ten  pounds  Scots 
conforme  to  the  Act  of  Session  anent  breach  of  marriage,  qrunto  she  wes  willing,  and 
promised  to  pay  in  the  money  to  the  Thesaurer." 

22nd  September  1673,  "  Compeired  William  Linklatter  and  Issobel  Grott,  with  whom  he 
is  contracted  in  marriage.  Ordains  the  said  William  and  Issobel  to  compeir  the  next  Session 
with  ther  cautioners,  seeing  it  is  fourtie  days  elapsed  since  ther  contract."  29th  Sejiteniber, 
"Compeired  Issobel  Grott  and  declared  that  she  was  willing  to  adhere  to  the  contract  of 
marriage  with  William  Linklatter,  wberupon  James  Drcvar,  hir  cautioner,  wes  absolved  from 
his  cautionrie  for  her."  "  Compeired  William  Linklatter  and  declared  that  he  would  not 
marrie  with  Issobel  Grott,  although  contracted  with  hir.  The  Session  referrs  him  to  the 
Magistrats  present,  who  ordered  him  to  be  imprisoned,  both  for  his  syn  of  fornication  with  the 
said  Issobel,  and  for  his  breach  of  contract  ;  and  John  Browne,  his  cautioner,  protested  that 
he  might  be  frie  of  his  cautionrie  for  him,  since  he  wes  now  in  the  Session's  power,  unto  which 
the  Session  condescended.  The  sd.  William  paid  fourtie-thrie  shillings  Scots  to  compt  of  his 
fyn,  out  of  which  the  Thesaurer  wes  ordained  to  pay  his  tolbooth  mail  and  officer's  fies  for 
waiting  upon  him." 

At  the  making  of  the  contract,  various  sums  of  money  had  to  be  paid  :  —2nd  March  1674, 
**  The  Minister  and  eldars  present  have  ordained  that  each  persone  who  contracts  in  marriage 
heirafter  shall,  as  formerlie,  consigne  two  Dollars  or  a  pledge  to  the  value  thereof,  which  is  to 
continue  in  the  Clerk's  hand  untill  thrie  quarters  of  ane  yeir  be  past  after  ther  marriage." 

29th  January  1672,  "Compeired  Issobel  Petrie  and  gave  in  ane  complaint  upon  John 
Harvie,  servitor  to  Robert  Richan,  litster,  the  sd.  John  and  Issobel  being  contracted  in 
marriage,  desiring  the  sd.  John  to  be  tryed  whether  or  not  he  wil  adhere  to  his  intended 
marriage  with  hir,  and  if  he  refuse,  that  he  may  not  onlie  pay  as  ane  partie  breaker,  but  also 
mak  up  hir  losse  she  hes  sustained  in  brewing  and  baking  to  ther  marriage  conforme  to  the 
said  John's  direction."  "  Compeired  the  said  John  and  declared  that  he  wes  unwilling  to  be 
married  with  the  said  Issobel.  Ordains  him  to  pay  ten  pounds  as  ane  partie  breaker."  The 
Session  allowed  them  to  settle  for  the  cakes  and  ale  as  best  they  could. 

Marriage  was  thought  to  inspire  charitable  feelings,  hence  :— 26th  September  1671, 
"  Ordains  that  if  any  person  in  this  congregation,  either  man  or  woman,  be  contracted  or 

3k 


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434  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

proclaimed  in  this  congregation,  that  ther  marriage  money  be  farth  comand  to  the  poore  of 
this  touiie,  utherwayes  no  testificate  to  be  given  them  unlesse  they  first  pay  ther  marriage 
money  to  this  Kirk."  6th  Feb.  1688,  "  This  day  ther  wes  ane  act  ordained  that  all  persones 
who  marries  should  give  some  relief  to  the  poor." 

Again,  marriage  presupposes  a  generous  sympathy  with  the  rising  generation.  Accord- 
ingly :— 7th  December  1684,  "It  was  enacted  that  ther  is  non  in  toun  or  paroch  that  marries 
but  shall  pay  a  foot-ball  to  the  scholars  of  the  Grammar  School."  Certainly  the  boys  did  not 
get  all  the  balls  paid  for,  but  the  "  ha'  money"  was  charged  in  the  proclamation  fees  down  to 
the  passing  of  the  present  Registration  Act,  1855,  the  late  Mr  Craig  being  the  last  registrar  to 
charge  for  the  ball. 

As  has  been  seen,  three  was  the  orthodox  number  of  proclamations  to  be  made  before  a 
marriage  could  be  celebrated,  but  circumstances  sometimes  limited  the  number,  with,  of 
course,  the  consent  of  the  church,  to  two  or  even  one.  But  this  privilege  was  never  sought 
except  by  the  wealthy,  and  an  extra  fee  was  demanded  for  the  concession.  In  1720,  Patrick 
Ballendeu  and  Donald  Grott  get  off  with  two  proclamations ;  in  1734,  one  Sunday  suffices  for 
the  proclamation  of  John  Riddoch  and  Miss  Mary  Young  of  Castleyards  ;  and,  in  1735,  Dr 
Hugh  Sutherland  marries  Miss  Graham  of  Grahamshall  after  one  public  announcement. 

During  the  '"  Meeting  House"  troubles  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century,  it  was 
one  of  the  bitterest  draughts  the  presbyterian  ministers  had  to  swallow,  that  Mr  Lyon,  "  an 
irregular  Episcopalian,"  "having  been  deposed,"  should  take  it  upon  himself  to  solemnise 
marriages. 

The  festivity  that  still  forms  an  essential  part  of  the  ordinary  wedding  is  as  nothing  now 
compared  with  the  rampant  jollity  that  accompanied  marriage  in  the  brave  days  of  old.  That 
the  drinking  was  peculiar  is  shown  by  the  three-handed  "  brides'  cogues"  still  surviving,  some 
of  them,  over  a  century  old,  doing  duty  at  wedding  feasts  even  yet. 

Fashionable  marriages  excited  as  much  interest  in  the  olden  time  as  they  do  now,  and 
spectators  crowded  to  church,  to  the  great  trouble  of  the  doorkeeper.  29th  September  1673, 
"  Robert  Murray  wes  admonished  be  the  minister  for  his  rashness  (since  the  toune  court  had 
fyned  him)  in  blooding  John  Browne,  servitor  to  James  manson,  by  ane  blow  with  ane  key, 
when  the  said  Robert  was  hindring  people  to  throng  into  the  church  whil  Mr  James  Graham 
wes  married,  for  which  the  said  Robert  craved  pardon  and  promised  to  abstain  from  the  like 
rashness  heirafter."  The  bride,  the  centre  of  attraction,  was  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  Provost 
Patrick  Craigie,  who  was  then  at  the  height  of  his  prosperity  and  popularity. 

In  her  attention  to  the  sick,  and  esi^cially  in  the  hour  of  death,  the  Church  was  scrupu- 
lously careful.  This  was  handed  down  to  the  protestant  clergy  by  their  catholic  predecessors, 
who  regarded  it  a  sacred  duty  to  administer  the  last  sacrament  to  their  adherents  in  their 
dying  moments.  The  next  care  of  the  ancient  Church  was  to  guard  the  soul  in  its  heavenward 
journey.  The  Bishop  of  Gloucester  expresses  very  clearly  the  old  idea  regarding  the  human 
spirit :— "  There  does  not  seem  anything  unreasonable  in  the  opinion  of  many  modern 
psychologists,  that  the  indwelling  Ego  or  soul  may  have  form  and  even  some  sort  of  subtle 
corporeity,  so  that  when  it  leaves  the  body  and  becomes  unclothed,  it  may  still  preserve  some 
distinct  objective  existence."* 

Inspired  by  this  belief,  the  necessity  of  protecting  this  unclothed  Ego  in  its  upward 
flight  becomes  obvious,  seeing  that  Satan's  emissaries  were  always  on  the  watch  for  such  prey. 
It  was  an  old  superstition  that  bellst  had  the  power  to  dispel  storms  and  to  terrify  evil  spirits, 
the  powers  of  the  air.     Thus  "  the  custom  of  ringing  what  was  called  the  passing-bell  grew 

*  Timbs'  Notabilia,  p.  267,  quoting  Cont.  Review,  1872. 
t  Bells,  Quarterly  Review,  Sept.  1854. 


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RULE  OF  THE   CHURCH.  435 

out  of  the  belief  that  devils  troubled  the  expiring  patient  and  lay  in  wait  to  afflict  the  soul 
the  moment  it  escaped  from  the  body."  The  Reformation  did  not  quite  do  away  with  thia 
belief.  In  the  appointment  of  a  church-officer,  February  1681,  it  is  required  that  **he  shall 
not  refuse,  night  or  day,  to  ring  the  great  Bell  for  any  person's  death." 

Tolling  the  bell  at  the  time  of  the  funeral  was  a  different  matter.  It  seems  to  have  been 
regarded  as  a  necessary  adjunct  to  all  funerals.  But,  as  it  was  accompanied  by  some  expense, 
the  bell  for  the  rich  man's  burial  was  the  great  bell  of  the  church,  while  a  hand-bell  sufficed 
for  the  interment  of  the  poor.  But,  great  or  small,  the  bell  must  not  be  omitted.  In  July 
1688,  David  Seatter,  kirk-officer,  is  ordered  "  to  ring  the  hand-beU  and  make  the  grave  of 
each  pensioner  gratis."  * 

The  Church  hand-bell  was  used  in  issuing  secular  proclamations,  and  it  sometimes  had 
careless  usage  :— "  In  reference  to  the  hand-bell,  which  is  latlie  broken,  and  the  officer  (in 
whose  hands  it  lost  the  sound  when  he  was  ringing  it)  offering  to  prove  that  it  was  not 
through  any  fault  or  negligence,  the  witnesses  for  that  effect,  to  \idt,  Gilbert  Tait,  Robert 
Nicolsone,  and  John  Pottinger,  declare  that  he  began  to  ring  at  Robert  Nicolsone's,  wher  the 
said  bell  did  sound  clearlie,  as  formerlie,  neyther  perceived  they  any  breach."  "  John  Stow  de- 
clares that  it  sounded  clearlie  at  Francis  Murray's  house,  and  he,  comeing  along,  heard  him 
ring  it  at  John  Chambers,  wher  it  sounded  from  that  clearlie,  but  when  he  began  to  ring  for 
Magnus  Symondsone's  wyfe,  he  perceived  the  sound  greatlie  to  fail."  This  was  in  1681.  In 
1685,  the  Session  "  ordains  David  Seater  to  repair  the  hand-bell,  which  he  has  broken,  at  hi» 
own  expense."  How  many  hand-bells  had  been  broken  between  then  and  1693  does  not 
appear,  but  in  March  of  the  latter  year  it  is  recorded  that,  "  There  being  a  new  hand-bell 
returned  from  Edinr.  at  the  Session's  Charge,  it  was  delivered  to  David  Seater  wt.  this  certifi- 
cation, yt.  if  he  broke  this  bell,  as  the  oyr.  former  bells,  it  should  be  recovered  at  his  cost." 
As  David  occasionally  took  too  much  liquor  at  funerals,  "the  other  former  bells"  would 
sometimes  have  scant  fairplay. 

14th  April,  "The  Thesaurer  is  ordained  to  acquyt  Thomas  Dischington,  clerk,  of  his 
wife's  kirk-layr  and  bells,  and  by  these  presents  hes  discharged  him,  and  that  in  compensation 
for  his  pains  in  keeping  a  register  hitherto  of  all  persones  who  dies.  Ordaining  him  also  to 
keep  ane  perfect  and  exact  compt  of  the  samen  for  the  future,  together  with  ane  accompt 
what  bells,  great  and  small,  shalbe  rung  for  eyerie  persone,  and  to  give  ane  accompt  thereof 
once  in  the  yeir,  and  the  said  Thomas  is  to  refer  his  pains  to  the  Session  for  the  future."  Thia 
register,  as  has  been  seen,  was  kept  at  the  desire  of  Bishop  Honyman.  It  is  entitled  "  Ane 
just  accompt  and  List  of  all  those  who  have  departed  life  since  May  1666,  taken  up  and 
kept  in  record  according  to  Andrew^,  Lord  Bishop  of  Orknay,  his  commands  and  special! 
directions."  Mr  Dishington  tried  to  make  his  register  as  interesting  as  possil)le.  Among  the 
early  entries  we  find  :— "  6th  Oct.  1666,  Marrable  Horrie,  spous  to  Magnus  Taylor,  mercht.^ 
wes  found  dead  on  the  sea.  27th  Dec,  James  Sinclair,  mercht.,  alias  James  of  the  well. 
24th  Jan.  1667,  Margaret  Midhouse,  widow  to  ane  English  souldier." 

In  1836,  the  registration  of  births,  marriages,  and  deaths  was  by  law  made  compulsory  ; 
but,  in  1707,  the  Scottish  Parliament,  by  a  somewhat  singular  Act,  made  the  registration  of 
deaths  necessary.  As  far  back  as  1597,  it  was  enacted  that  English  woollen  cloth  should  not 
be  brought  into  Scotland  : — "  The  same  Claith,  havand  only  for  the  maist  parte  an  outward 
show,  wantand  that  substance  and  strength  quhilk  oft  times  it  appears  to  have,  and  being  one 
of  the  chief  causes  of  the  transporting  of  all  gold  and  silver  foorth  of  the  realme,  and  conse- 
quentlie  of  the  great  scarsitie  and  present  dearth  of  the  cunzie  now  current  within  the  samin." 

*  The  pensioners  were  those  paupers  who  were  wholly  or  partially  supported  by  donations  from 
the  Church  box. 


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436  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

This  was  in  the  reif^n  of  James  VI.  In  the  early  years  of  Queen  Anne,  Acts  were  passed 
imposing  heavy  duties  on  foreign  linen,  prohibiting  the  export  of  Scottish  wool,  and  generally 
protecting  the  products  of  our  native  looms.  But  the  last  Scottish  Parliament  outdid  its 
predecessors  by  ordaining  that  all  bodies  should  be  prepared  for  burial  by  being  shrouded  in 
woollen  cloth  : — 

*'Qlk  day*  the  Seas.,  taking  into  consideration  the act  of  the  last  sees,  of  the  parlia't.  of 

Scotland,  all  persones  are  oblidged  to  be  buried  in  wooling,  and  the  relations  of  the  Defanct  are 

•conform  to  the act  of  the sess.  of  K.  J.  the  seventh's  Parlt.,  and  to act  of  K.  Wm.'8 

par.,  to  report  certificates  of  the  Defuncts  being  winded  in  wooling  conforroeto  Law,  within  the  spaoe 
of  eight  days,  to  the  Minister  or  Ministers  of  the  pansh,  who  ar  yrupon  oblidged  to  cause  register  the 
fiame  gratis,  qlk  failing,  the  Ministers  and  their  elders  are  oblidged  to  pursue  the  relations  of  the 
Defunct  within  six  months,  and  to  apply  the  penalties  for  the  use  of  the  poor,  as  the  said  acts  in 
themselves  at  more  lenth  bears,  with  certification  to  the  said  Min'rs.  in  caice  they  fail  to  pursue  the 
same  as  aforesaid,  they  shall  be  lyable  for  the  foresaid  fynes.  Therfor  the  Session  have  appointed, 
and  hereby  appoints,  a  register  of  the  Dead  to  be  kept  in  all  time  comeing  by  the  clerk  ot  Session, 
a-nd  appoints  the  officiars  of  the  church  to  report  continualie  to  the  said  Clerk  the  names  of  the 
persones  that  die  within  this  congregation.  And  that  the  people  of  this  congregation  may  not  fall 
into  an  error,  appoints  Intimation  yrof  nixt  Lord's  day." 

Burns,  in  ^*  Tarn  o'  Shanter,"  has  a  reference  to  this  burial  in  woollen.  In  the  wild  dance 
in  Alloway  Kirk,  he  mentions  their  "sarks  o'  creeshie  flannen,"  instead  of  "snaw  white 
seventeen  hunder  linen." 

It  would  seem  that  England  had  a  similar  law,  perhaps  by  way  of  protecting  the  home 
woollen  industry  against  Continental  and  Scottish  competition.  In  his  "  Moral  Essays,"  in 
which  he  gives  "  the  ruling  passion  strong  in  death  "  of  various  types  of  humanity.  Pope  puts 
the  following  words  into  the  lips  of  a  celebrated  and  highly  popular  actress  of  the  day  : — 

**  Odious  in  woolen  !  'twould  a  saint  provoke 
(Were  the  last  words  that  poor  Narcissa  spoke). 
No,  let  a  charmine  chintz  and  Brussels  lace 
Wrap  my  cold  liuios  and  shade  my  lifeless  face  ; 
One  would  not,  sure,  be  frightful  when  one's  dead  : 
And — Betty — give  this  cheek  a  little  red." 

The  mortcloth,  which  covered  the  coflBn  in  its  carriage  from  the  house  to  the  grave,  was 
provided  by  the  Church,  and  for  this  a  separate  charge  was  made.  If  the  use  of  the  mortcloth 
cost  money,  the  article  itself  was  rather  an  expensive  item  of  the  ecclesiastical  working  plant. 
John  Richan,  litster,  a  man  of  high  repute  in  the  Chiu-ch,  was  commissioned  to  puichase  one 
of  these  cloths,  and  on  his  return  from  the  south,  he  reported  to  the  Session  that  he  had 
brought  it,  suggesting  that  "  the  Treasurer  might  call  for  it  from  him,  and  that  he  would 
^ve  in  his  accompt  next  Sess.  day.  Appoints  the  Treasurer  to  call  for  the  sd.  mortcloth,  and 
to  give  it  out  for  two  crowns  within  the  town,  and  for  four  without  it.  And  appoints  the  old 
mortcloth  to  be  given  at  half  that  price."  John  Eichan's  account  showed  that  he  had  paid 
"  the  sum  of  £169  18s  Scots  mo'ie  as  the  pryce  bestowed  upon  the  new  velvet  mortcloth  and 
pock." 

The  Session  always  kept  two  of  these  funeral  wraps,  and  insisted  on  the  double  fee  when 
one  was  allowed  to  go  out  of  town.  Mrs  Traill,  wife  of  David  of  Sabay,  died,  and  "the 
Thesaurer  reported  that  John  Spence,  Baylie,  oflfered  as  cautioner  thrie  rix-dollars,  whiche 
the  Session  discharged  him  to  receive  till  he  add  the  fourt,  according  to  the  practise  of  those 
iRrho  use  it  out  of  the  towne." 

♦  2nd  Feb.  1708. 


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RULE  OF  THE   CHURCH.  437 

The  different  fees  and  other  items  of  expense  in  an  old-time  funeral  may  be  shown  by 
the  account  of  an  Edinburgh  interment  paid  in  Kirkwall  by  the  brother  of  the  deceased  :— 


1777,  June  9,  paid  for 

The  warrant    

£16    0 

Disperseing  the  Letters 

0    1    6 

The  turff 

0  10    0 

The  Burial  Bread    

0    8    7 

The  poor 

0    5    0 

The  Gloves       

1    1    0 

The  recorder    

0    2    6 

The  Hearse  and  six  Coaches 

3    0    0 

The  Mortcloth 

16    6 

MrHenshold 

0    3    0 

The  Bellmen    

0    4    0 

Servants    

0    2    6 

The  Grave        

The  Ushers      

0    8    0 

0  12    0 

£2  10    7 

The  Bearers     

0    6    0 

The  Coffin,  etc 

5    6    0 

The  battonmen 
The  Coachmen 

0    4    0 

0    4    0 

£17  15    7 

Had  this  been  in  Kirkwall,  a  very  large  sum  would  have  been  added  for  liquor,  an  approxi- 
mation to  the  Irish  custom  of  "  waking  "  the  dead  having  been  practised  in  Orkney. 

Certain  superstitions  almost  naturally  attached  themselves  to  funeral  customs.  "  Anent 
the  threttene  article  of  the  Instructions*  relaiting  to  Church  burrialls,  the  brethren  regraite 
the  great  and  superstitious  abuse  yrof."  t 

The  place  of  burial  during  Christian  times  has  always  in  Orkney  been,  where  possible,  the 
vicinity  of  a  church.  The  ancient  church  builders,  whenever  they  could  manage  it,  got  a 
portion  of  the  skeleton  of  the  saint  to  whom  the  church  was  dedicated,  and  this  they  placed  in 
or  near  the  high  altar.  To  be  buried  as  close  as  possible  to  the  sacred  relics  secured  at  the 
resurrection  the  companionship  of  one  of  Heaven's  accredited  agents.  The  extension  of  this 
idea  led  to  the  consecration  of  churchyards.  The  bodies  of  excommunicated  persons  and 
suicides,  which  were  excluded  from  consecrated  ground,  found  interment  at  cross  roads,  not 
as  an  indignity  but  as  a  charity,  such  points  being  regarded  as  self -consecrated.  Such 
exclusion  never  took  place  under  Scottish  presbyterianism,  which  has  always  regarded  the 
presence  of  the  dead  as  the  only  consecration  of  the  cemetery,  but  in  England  it  was  only  in 
the  reign  of  George  IV.  that  the  bodies  of  suicides  were  admitted  within  consecrated  ground, 
and  then  only  under  the  superintendence  of  the  coroner,  and  between  nine  and  twelve  o'clock 
at  night.  In  Kirkwall,  however,  all  who  could  claim  the  right,  or  could  buy  it,  insisted  on 
being  buried  within  the  church. 

The  oldest  kirkyard  in  our  town  was  St.  Olaf s,  but  from  the  time  of  the  transference  of 
the  body  of  St.  Magnus  from  Birsay  to  Kirkwall,  the  Cathedral  was  regarded  as  the  proper 
place  for  interment. 

Before  the  Reformation,  the  desecration  of  a  churchyard  was  a  sacrilege  severely  punished. 
In  Lord  Sinclair's  Rental  of  1503,  it  is  stated,  regarding  the  proprietor  of  Oorseness,  in  Rendall, 
that  "  becaus  he  drew  bluid  in  the  kirkyaird  they  tuik  fra  him  his  said  land."{ 

Those  whose  position  did  not  secure  burial  within  the  Cathedral  walls  could  obtain  the 
privilege  by  paying  for  it.  Indeed,  by  a  free  disbursement  of  coin  a  man  could  get  himself 
deposited  in  the  sacred  neighbourhood  of  the  pulpit.  "  After  invocation  of  the  name  of  God, 
My  Lord  Bishop  and  Session  discharges  the  beddali  and  under  officers  to  break  any  ground 
within  the  quire  for  burials  wher  the  people  sitts  and  hears  the  word,  without  speciall  libertie 
asked  and  given  be  my  lord  Bishop,  minister,  and  eldars,  and  that  none  be  permitted  to  be 
buried  within  the  said  quire,  except  the  persone  related  to  the  dead,  or  Cautioner,  pay  some- 
what more  considerable  than  in  any  other  place  of  the  church." 

The  Church  was  most  beneficent  in  its  care  for  the  poor,  and  in  Kirkwall  the  list  of 

•  Bp.  Sydaerfs.        t  Synod  Records,  17th  Nov.  1662.        $  Pet.  Rent.,  i.  71. 


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438  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

"  Pensioners "  was  a  long  one.  The  regular  dole  was  given  quarterly  to  each  person  on  the 
pauper  roll :— 1st  May  1693,  "  Qlk  day,  upon  a  petition,  James  Irvine,  weaver,  was  enrolled 
amongst  the  poor  at  twentie  shilling  quarterlie,  and  fourtie-two  shilling  advanced  to  him  for 
p'nt.  supplie.''  But  the  Session  gave  relief  under  special  circumstances  to  her  poorer  adherents 
who  were,  as  far  as  possible,  self-supporting  : — "  The  Session,*  taking  into  consideration  that 
the  poor  inhabitants  of  the  town  are  in  straits  through  the  want  of  meal.  The  Session  agrees 
that  the  box  be  opened,  and  that  there  be  ten  pounds  Sterling  taken  out  of  it  and  given  to 
David  Strang,  one  of  the  Elders,  and  that  he  buy  therewith  meal  where  he  can  have  it 
cheapest  within  the  country,  and  bring  the  same  to  the  town  and  sell  it  to  the  inhabitants  in 
parcels,  without  any  further  profit  than  the  necessary  expenses,  and  that  immediately  on  the 
selling  thereof  he  return  the  money  to  the  box." 

Occasionally  the  Session  got  a  gift  for  charitable  purposes  :— "  Quhilk  day,t  James 
Murray,  commissr.  of  Orknay,  at  comand  and  direction  of  My  Lord  Bishop  of  Orknay,  gave 
in  ane  precept,  subt.  with  his  hand  at  Kirkwall  of  the  dait  of  thir  presents,  wherein  he 
ordains  Thomas  Young,  receiver  of  my  lord  Bishop's  rents,  to  deliver  to  the  Kirk  Session  of 
Kirkwall  as  much  malt  as  amounteth  to  the  sowm  of  ane  hundreth  pounds  Scots." 

Regular  collections  for  the  poor  were  instituted  : — 7th  January  1665,  "  Whilk  day  it  was 
ordained  that  every  minister  in  their  severall  paroches  appoint  collections  to  be  made  for  the 
poore  each  Sabbath  day." 

On  Communion  occasions  the  poor  were  specially  remembered  : — **  Ordains  J  the  remainder 
of  the  Elements  to  be  distributed  amongst  the  bedliers  and  other  poor,  sick  persones  throw  the 
towne."  "  The  collectors  gave  in  what  money  wes  collected  upon  the  preparation  day,  Befor 
the  coniunion  and  at  thanksgiving,  which  mo'ie.  amounted  to  the  sowme  of  sextie-two  pound 
nyn  shillings  two  pennies.  The  major  part  thereof  is  to  be  distribute  to-morrow  amongst  the 
poor  of  this  towne."  Sometimes  the  collection  did  not  come  up  to  expectation  : — 24th  April 
1693,  "  It  was  ordained  that  the  bedlars  should  have  the  same  pension  as  at  the  quarter's  end, 
out  of  the  collection  at  the  Sacrament.  Item,  to  the  pensicmers  the  halfe  of  qt  pension  they 
gett  quarterlie.  Item,  it  was  ordained  to  be  intimat  from  pulpit  the  uncharitableneas  of  the 
parochen  people  of  St.  Ola." 

The  Communion  seasons  were  the  few  occasions  when  the  poor  of  Kirkwall  could  taste 
flour  bread.  Flour  was  only  f(mnd  in  the  houses  of  the  wealthy,  and  does  not  .seem  to  have 
been  sold  in  Kirkwall  : — "  Ordainsg  the  8e.ssion  clerk  to  write  south  to  David  Sutherland  for 
some  flour  for  the  com  union  elements." 

Besides  the  poor  of  the  burgh  and  parish,  the  Church  had  to  meet  frequent  incidental 
necessitous  cases.  A  collection  was  ordered,  24th  April  1682,  for  a  young  man  who  had  been 
a  slave  in  Algiers;  3rd  August  1713,  for  William  Mitchell,  cripple,  who  had  '* suffered 
slavery  under  the  Turks";  "Mr  Thomas  Douglas  having  been  robbed  of  all  his  goods  by 
privateers,  on  his  way*  from  England  to  the  West  Indies,  the  Session  gave  him  a  crown  "  ;  four 
English  seamen  who  had  been  "  robbed  by  the  Hollanders,"  7th  July  1673.  Very  likely  this 
had  been  in  Shetland,  and  a  similar  case  was  that  of  Andrew  Grigg,  a  Fraserburgh  merchant, 
**  robbed  at  Zetland  by  the  H(»llanders."  He  got  £2  12s  "  to  help  him  southward."  **  There 
was  six  pounds  scots  ordained  for  four  Englishmen  who  hjid  been  taken  at  sea  by  the  french 
and  sett  a  shoar  heer,"  10th  April  1693. 

Sometimes  the  poor  of  Kirkwall  came  under  the  censure  of  the  Church  : — "  It  being 
observed  by  the  eldars  collecting  at  the  Kirk  door  yt  ye  pensioners  sitting  at  the  Kirk  pillars 
seeking  charity,  removes  without  hearing  divine  service,  herbie  it  is  appointed  to  be  intimate 
from  pulpit  that  whosoever  removes  at  supra  shall  loss  their  pension." || 
♦  10th  March  1718.      t  28th  July  1669.       %  24th  Aug.  1674.       §  6th  Feb.  1693.       II  15th  Feb.  1692. 


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BULE   OF  THE   CHURCH.  439 

The  money  required  for  the  support  of  the  poor,  being  chiefly  got  from  fines  for  breaches 
of  the  Decalogue,  was  sometimes  difficult  to  recover.  Accordingly,  the  Church  had  to  act  as 
secular  creditors  do  in  similar  circumstances  : — "  It  was  ordained  that  the  Kirk  Treasurer 
should  call  in  for  the  former  rests,  and  if  they  would  not  pay  them  in  pleasantly,  to  use 
diligence  against  those  who  were  resting."  * 

The  regular  church-door  collections  had  fallen  into  disuse  in  Kirkwall,  and  were 
re-instituted.  On  Sunday,  13th  July  1673,  at  a  meeting  held  the  previous  Monday,  the 
Session  "  Ordains  the  parochin  eldars  to  collect  by  turnes  at  ye  kirk  door,  from  the  parochin 
people,  and  ordains  James  Clerk  to  beginne  the  nixt  Sabbath."  These  collections  having  been 
established,  presbyteries  and  congregations  had  applications  from  all  directions.  "  Appoynts 
a  collection  to  be  made  in  every  church  for  repairing  the  Harbour  of  Kilburne,  according  to 
ane  act  of  parliament  thereanent"t ;  collection  for  the  Bridge  at  Dumbarton,  June  1683  ;  for 
the  poor  of  Elie,  May  1697  ;  for  building  a  church  in  Cunningsburg,  in  Prussia,  July  1697  ; 
burial  place  for  Scots  people  at  Newcastle  ;  for  a  church  at  Lithuania  ;  for  the  congregation 
at  New  York  ;  Harbour  at  Aberbrothwick  ;  Bridge  of  Dee  ;  Harbour  of  Banff  ;  French  colony 
in  Hilburghausen  ;  Church  at  the  Enzie  ;  Harbour  at  Anatruther  Easter ;  for  founding  an 
Infirmary  at  Edinburgh,  £14  15s  lOd  ;  J  Reformed  Church  in  Copenhagen  ;  Orphan  Hospital, 
Edinburgh  ;  for  repairing  the  Bridge  at  Berriedale  ;  distressed  inhabitants  of  Leith  who  had 
their  houses  blown  up,  19th  Nov.  1702  ;  sufferers  by  fire  in  the  Canongate  of  Edinburgh, 
&c.,  &c. 

At  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century  and  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth,  a  number  of 
dreadful  fires  occurred  in  Edinburgh  and  Leith.  These  were  regarded  by  many  of  the  people 
as  a  visitation  for  the  iniquities  of  the  capital  and  the  seaport,  and  it  was  thought  probable 
that,  if  a  general  improvement  in  lives  and  morals  did  not  take  place,  the  two  towns  would 
become  as  Sodom  and  Gomorrah.  The  following  extract  from  the  minute-book  of  the 
** Society  of  Captains "  will  show  how  deep  and  general  this  feeling  was.  The  "Captains" 
were  those  who  had  held  that  rank  in  the  city  Trained  Bands,  men  not  generally  supposed  to 
be  highly  emotional : — 

"  Edr.,  the  fourth  day  of  December,  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  five  years.  The  which  day 
the  Society  of  Captains  being  convened  in  the  old  Councill  House,  considering  the  great  growth  of 
immoralities  within  this  city  and  suburbs,  and  the  fearfuU  rebukes  of  God  by  a  dreadful  fire  in  the 
Parliament  Close,  Kirkheugh,  and  Cowgate,  which  happened  about  midniglit"upon  the  third  day  of 
ffebruary,  1700  years,  and  which  it  is  recorded  in  the  Councill  Books  with  their  Christiane  sentiments 
theranent  upon  the  24th  of  April  thereafter.  And  also  remembring  that  terrible  fire  which  hapeued 
in  the  north  side  of  the  Land-mercatt  about  midday  upon  the  28th  day  of  October,  1701  years,  wherein 
severall  men,  women,  and  children  were  consumed  in  the  iflames  and  lost  by  the  fall  of  ruinous  walls. 

"  And  furder  considering  that  most  tremendous  and  terrible  blowing  up  of  gunpowder  in  Leith 
upon  the  3rd  day  of  Jully,  1702  years,  wherein  sundrie  persons  were  lost  and  wonderiull  ruines  made 
in  the  place.  And  likewise  reflecting  on  many  other  tokens  of  God's  wrath  lately  come  upon  us,  and 
what  wee  are  more  and  more  threatened  with  being  moved  with  the  zeall  of  God  and  the  tyes  He  hath 
laid  upon  us,  and  that  wee  have  taken  upon  ourselves  to  appear  for  Him  in  our  severall  station,  doe  in 
the  Lord's  strength  resolve  to  be  more  watchfull  over  our  hearts  and  wayes  than  formerly,  and  each 
of  us  in  our  sevenvll  capacities  to  reprove  vice  with  that  due  zeall  and  prudence  as  wee  shall  have 
occasion,  and  to  endeavour  to  promote  the  rigorous  execution  of  those  good  laws  made  for  suppressing 
of  vice  and  punishing  of  the  vitious.  And  the  Society  appoints  this  their  solemn  resolution  to  fa« 
recorded,  and  our  clarke  to  read  or  move  the  reailing  heirof  in  the  Society  everie  first  meeting  after 
Whitsunday  and  Martinmas  yearly  as  a  lasting  and  humbling  memoriall  of  the  said  three  dreadful! 
fyres,  and  that  under  the  penalty  of  twenty  merks  Scots,  toties  quoties."  § 

♦  Ist  May  1693.        t  Synod  Rec.,  6th  July  1666. 
X  Ten-elevenths  of  the  Presbyteries  of  Scotland  refused  to  collect. 

§  Regarding  the  fire  in  the  Canongate,  Scott,  in  his  notes  to  the  fifth  canto  of  '*  Rokeby,"  tells  a 
very  gruesome  story. 


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440  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

*  • 

The  sum  collected  for  the  Canongate  snffererg  was  £28  2s  4d,  of  which  9s  4d  was-  bad 
money. 

The  currency  of  Scotland  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century  was  in  a  very 
debased  condition.  Much  of  it  was  foreign  and  of  doubtful  or  of  varying  value,  aud  there 
was  a  vast  amount  of  false  coin  in  circulation.-  As  far  back  as  1467,  in  his  third  Parliament, 
James  III.  tried  to  fix  the  values  of  the  most  common  of  the  foreign  coins  in  use  in  his 
kingdom  : — 

*'  Our  Boveraine  Lord  the  King,  and  his  three  Estaites  in  this  present  Parliament,  findis  his  hieneS 
and  the  haill  body  of  the  Realme  greattumly  hurt  and  skaithed  in  the  money  of  this  Realme  havand 
lawer  course  then  uther  Realmes  hes  about  us,  throwe  the  quhilk,  the  Cuinzie  of  this  Realme  is  borne 
out  in  great  qnantitie  :  For  the  quhilk  our  soveraine  Lord  and  his  three  Estates  in  this  present  Parlia- 
ment hes  statute  and  ordained  that  the  money  of  uther  Realmes  :  That  is  to  say,  the  English  Noble 
Hknry  and  Edward,  with  the  i?a»e,  the  French  Crowne,  the  Salute,  the  Lew,  and  the  Rydar,  shall 
have  course  in  this  Realme  of  our  money  to  the  value  and  equivalence  of  the  course  that  they  have  in 
Flanders  :  That  is  to  say,  Edward  with  the  Rone  to  threttie  twa  shillinges  of  our  money,  Ite^n  the 
auld  Edward  to  four  marks  the  ounce  of  the  samine  price  as  the  Rose  hes  course.  The  Hknry  Noble 
to  twentie  seven  shillinges  six  pennies.  The  Salute  to  threttine  shillinges  foure  pennies,  The  Rydar  to 
twentie-foure  shillinges,  The  Demy  to  twelve  shillinges,  The  Lycni  with  the  Crowne  to  twelve 
shillinges  sex  pennies,  Item  the  aula  English  groate  sail  passe  for  sexteene  pennies,  The  J^ora^e.groate 
as  the  new  groate,  The  auld  groate  of  Edward  for  twelve  pennies,  The  Spurred  groate  as  the  auld 
English  groate  for  sexteene  pennies,  The  English  penny  three  pennies.  And  the  new  English  penny 
richt-swa,  The  groate  of  the  crowne  sail  have  course  for  fonrteene  pennies,  Item  the  half  groate  seven 
pennies,  The  groate  of  the  Flour-deluce  aucht  pennies,  And  the  quhite  Scottis  penny  and  halfe-penny 
as  they  were  woont  to  have.  And  the  stryking  of  the  black  pennies  to  be  ceased  that  there  be  nane 
striken  in  time  to  cum,  under  the  paine  of  death  :  And  that  strait  inquisition  be  taken  be  all 
Schireffes  and  Baillies  of  Burrowes  gif  ony  sik  stryking  be  maid,  and  the  strikers  to  be  brocht  to  the 
King  and  punished,  as  is  before  written,  and  the  bringers  of  sik  persons  to  be  weill  rewarded  therefore, 
as  effeiris. 

In  the  fourth  Parliament  of  the  same  king,  the  value  of  many  of  these  coins  was  altered. 
The  result  of  these  changes  was  to  make  money  transactions  to  some  extent  a  matter  of  rule- 
of-thumb,  in  which  one  of  the  parties  in  a  bargain  was  sure  to  make  a  loss.  And  though  the 
striking  of  false  coin  was  punishable  by  death,  the  temptation  held  out  by  the  free  passage  of 
such  a  variety  of  foreign  coins  was  so  great  that  the  currency  of  the  country  was  saturated 
with  counterfeits.  The  effect  of  this  was  felt  long  after  the  Union  had,  through  a  very  large 
grant,  brought  the  Scottish  coinage  up  to  English  standard.  This  bad  money  gave  trouble  to 
the  Kirkwall  Session  : — "  Considering  the  great  complaint  of  the  pensioners  anent  ill  money 
given  them,  and  for  preventing  the  same  in  time  coming,  appoints  that  the  old  box  belonging 
to  the  church  be  taken  out  of  the  chest  and  brought  to  the  Session  H(mse,  and  there  fixed, 
and  that  the  ill  money  presently  in  the  Treasurer's  hands,  and  what  may  happen  to  come  in 
from  day  to  day,  be  put  therein,  and  the  same  to  be  compted  and  sold  to  the  best  avail  once  a 
year  as  mettal.'** 

It  was  an  uncomfortable  experience  to  have  ill  money  coming  in  from  day  to  day  in  such 
quantity  as  to  furnish  bulk  for  an  aimual  sale  of  metal.  This  was  distinct  from  the  foreign 
money  which  the  Treaty  of  Union  had  put  out  of  circulation  : — "  The  Session,  considering 
that  there  is  some  incurrent  mo'ie.  in  the  box,  and  that  Mr  Baikie  is  going  south  shortlie, 
thought  fit  to  order  the  same  to  be  taken  out  and  delivered  to  the  said  Mr  Baikie  to  be 
exchanged  for  current  mo'ie.  to  the  best  avail."t  "  The  bullion  was  weighed,  and  the  weight 
yrof  was  2  pound  10  ounces  and  4  drops."  Mr  Baikie  made  the  exchange  at  £3  6s  per  ounce, 
but  found  the  weight  4  drops  short. 

The  process  of  clearing  the  foreign  coin  out  of  the  currency  was  going  on  at  the  same  time 

*  23rd  May  1711.        t  13th  March  1710. 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHURCH.  441 

aU  OTer  the  country.    It  may  not  be  out  of  place  in  this  connection  to  quote  from  the  Records 
of  Kirkwall  Town  Council  :— 

"  Robert  Morrison,  Collector  of  the  Cees  and  Stent,  gave  in  to  the  Magistrates  and  Council,*  at 
the  Council  Hall,  the  money  of  the  several  species  following,  viz.,  seventeen  horsemen  ducatoons, 
£^ve  bank  dollars  and  a  half,  three  rix  dollars,  fourth  pairt  of  ane  Cobb,  twelve  fonrtie  shilling  pieces, 
ane  twenty  shilling  piece,  3  ten  shilling  pieces,  twenty  French  3  sous  pieces ;  sumna  at  the  rate  at 
which  they  were  received  before  the  6th  Oct.  1707  is  ane  hundred  and  ei^^hteen  pound  six  shilling* 
which,  being  weighted,  twa  pound  ane  ounce  and  four  drops  more.  Given  in  by  the  said  Robert  four 
tens,  seveu-pences,  fyve-pences,  and  Scotts  fourpenny  pieces  current  before  the  fifteenth  of  October 
instant,  all  amounting  to  ane  hundred  and  threttie  ane  pounds,  given  in  by  the  said  Robert  of  British 
Coyne.  Eight  pounds  Scotta  and  the  four  tens,  seven -pences,  fyve-pences,  and  foure-pennie  pieces 
given  in  by  the  said  Robert  and  William  Traill,  weighing  three  pounds  and  four  unce  by  and  attour 
the  British  Coyne. 

**  Qlk  money  of  the  several  species  and  weight  above  written,  the  Magistrates  presently  delyvered 
at  the  CounciU  table  to  George  Richen,  one  of  uie  present  Balllies,  to  be  taken  to  Edinr.  by  him  and 
delivered  to  the  General  Receaver  there,  to  be  compt  of  the  publick  money  due  by  the  Burgh,  and  the 
said  Gteorge  is  to  gett  receipt  therefore,  and  send  the  same  to  the  Magistrates  or  bring  the  same  with 
him — the  Magistrates  uid  Council  bearing  the  Sea  risk  and  Land  hazard  of  the  money  to  Edinr." 

The  box  which  had  been  fixed  in  the  Session-house  as  a  receptacle  for  **  ill-money ''  had 
two  keys,  one  kept  by  Mr  Ker,  minister,  and  the  other  by  Mr  Spence,  clerk.  In  this  box  the 
base  money  accumulated  from  June  1711  till  November  1720,  when,  "  it  being  represented  to 
the  Session  that  there  is  ane  Irishman  in  the  country  willing  to  buy  up  bad  coin,  order  the 
little  box  to  be  broken  open  and  the  contents  counted."  In  the  nine  years  the  amount  of  bad 
coin  the  good  people  of  Kirkwall  had  devoted  to  pious  uses  amounted  to  14  shillings  6  pennies 
current  money,  49  shillings  in  Irish  half-pence,  15  pounds  16  shillings  5  pennies  of  doitts,  1& 
English  farthings,  and  27  pieces  of  foreign  coin— copper— with  3  Danish  floors.  This  list 
shows  a  widespread  liberality,  the  doits  alone,  if  given  separately,  reckoned  at  eight  to  the 
penny,  would  represent  a  great  crowd  of  givers.  The  probability  is  that  people  who  found 
themselves  in  possession  of  such  coins  after  they  had  lost  their  purchasing  power,  put  them 
into  this  box  with  a  view  to  their  ultimately  being  turned  to  account  as  ^'  metall.''  Among- 
the  strangely-named  coins  of  the  old  currency  are  Bishop  Mackenzie's  gift  to  the  poor,  27th 
March  1687,  of  nine  leg-dollars,  and  Alex.  Geddes'  thank-offering  on  his  return  from  Greenock 
of  one  leg-dollar,  March  1693. 

But  the  immediate  improvement  on  the  coinage  at  the  Union  is  shown  by  the  fact  that 
before  1707  the  Session  could  have  a  sale  of  metal  yearly,  while  a  nine  years'  collection  after 
1711  did  not  fill  the  little  box. 

The  bargain  with  the  Irishman  is  not  recorded.  A  smith  was  called  in  ^*  to  help  the  box,'** 
but  we  hear  of  no  more  sales. 

When  the  Church  had  money  on  hand  she  was  perfectly  willing  to  lend  at  the 
usual  rate  of  interest.  Before  the  Reformation,  any  charge  for  interest  was  prohibited  in 
Scotland,  but  in  1597  the  Scottish  Parliament  "statutis  and  ordainis  that  nane  of  our 
Soveraine  Lord's  lieges  tak  ony  greater  profite  or  annuall-rent  for  the  lene  of  money  bot  Ten  for 
the  hundreth."  In  Orkney  we  find  numerous  instances  of  borrowing  at  this  ruinous  rate. 
In  1633  it  was  enacted  that  "no  person  after  the  date  hereof  take  more  than  eight  pounds 
for  the  use  of  the  hundreth  pounds  in  a  yeare.'^  In  1661,  interest  was  reduced  to  six  per  cent.,. 
and  by  Queen  Anne  it  was  fixed  at  five.  But  whatever  rate  the  Church  agreed  upon  in  lending, 
it  would  seem  that  her  difficulty  most  frequently  was  to  recover  her  capital,  letting  the 
interest  slip. 

•  10th  Oct.  1708. 

3l 


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442  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

*'  The  Session*  taking  to  consideration  yt  there  is  a  bond  oweing  by  Castleyards  to  the  Session  of 
the  sum  of  200  lbs.  scotts,  and  that  the  said  bond  doeth  not  bear  interest,  They  found  it  convenient 
that  the  said  money  should  be  now  called  for  ;  also  considering  that  the  Cess  of  the  lands  belonging  to 
the  Church  hath  been  uncleared  for  some  years,  and  that  the  said  Castleyards,  Collector  of  the  Cess, 
hath  detained  in  his  hand  the  rent  of  the  churchyard  possessed  by  him.  Also  the  said  Castleyards  is 
due  to  the  Church  some  sclate  and  lime  borrowed  by  nim.  Therefor  appoints  Mr  Baikie  and  Robert 
Morison  to  speak  to  him  anent  these  things,  and  to  report  nixt  Sess.  day. 

"Also  considering  that  Mr  John  Watt  Is  due  to  the  Session  100  lbs.  scotts  by  heritable  bond 
besydes  50  merks  scotts  by  a  moveable  bond,  and  that  he  takes  no  care  to  pay  the  rent  of  the  sds. 
bonds,  and  that  the  church  has  need  to  raise  money  for  the  repairing  of  the  church  and  churchyard 
dykes.  Therefor  appoints  Mr  Ker  and  David  Arskine  to  speak  to  him  anent  the  said  money  and  to 
report  the  forsaid  day." 

It  was  reported  that  Castleyards  would  settle  at  once,  but  that  Mr  Watt  required  time. 

The  town  sometimes  condescended  to  borrow  small  sums  from  the  Church  : — "  Ordainst 
John  Traill  to  speak  to  the  provest  concerning  the  seaven  pound  Starling  that  the  town 
borrowed  from  the  church  box,  and  to  have  the  answer  thereanent  against  the  nixt  dyet." 
But  John  Traill  got  no  satisfactory  reply;  therefore,  14th  May,  "Ordains  the  Deanagill  to 
speak  to  the  provo.st  that  he  may  meet  with  my  Lord  Bishop,  Minister,  and  elders  this  after- 
noon or  to-morrow  in  the  forenoon  anent  the  seaven  pound  Starling  that  the  town  borrowed 
from  the  church  box."  Probably  the  money  was  paid  that  afternoon  and  returned  to  the  box, 
for  the  "  seaven  pound  Stirling"  does  not  again  appear  in  the  minutes. 

The  Church  sometimes  invested  her  money  in  house  property,  a  kind  of  speculation  which 
never  paid,  as  her  tenants  were  allowed  to  run  into  arrears  till  it  became  impossible  to  collect 
the  rents  in  full.  Some  of  her  houses  were  in  such  a  ruinous  condition  when  they  are  noticed 
in  the  records  that  one  would  be  led  to  imagine  the  Session  occasionally  falling  heir  to  a 
pauper,  a  not  uncommon  experience  in  later  times  of  the  Kirkwall  Parochial  Board.  When 
the  tenement  became  so  ruinous  that  the  cost  of  repair  would  equal  the  value  of  the  property, 
it  was  generally  sold  to  some  member  of  the  Session  who  could  turn  the  site  to  account. 

In  advertising  the  sale  of  her  property,  the  Church,  as  has  been  seen,  repudiated  drum  or 
hand-bell,  and  made  proclamation  by  plate  and  spoon.  But  the  most  common  and  most 
interesting  ecclesiastical  advertisements  were  made  from  the  pulpit,  and  these  included 
matters  of  public  concern  of  the  most  diverse  kind.  Down  to  the  present  reign,  days  were  set 
apart  for  public  thanksgiving  or  for  public  fasting,  as  crises  occurred  calling  for  national 
rejoicing  or  sorrowing.  The  proclamations  of  such  matters  from  the  pulpit  kept  people  alive 
to  prominent  events,  and  in  the  pre-newspaper  days  they  were  the  only  means  by  which  the 
bulk  of  the  islanders  could  learn  anything  of  what  was  doing  in  the  outer  world.  Some  of 
them  are  interesting.  When  the  Great  Plague  was  raging  in  London  a  fast  was  proclaimed, 
6th  October  1665,  to  be  observed  "  upon  the  Wednesday  yrafter  for  the  preserving  of  this 
kingdome  fra  the  infectione  of  the  pestilence,  the  removing  of  it  fra  the  kingdome  of  England, 
and  for  a  comfortable  harvest."  "To  implore  Almighty  God  for  a  blessing  to  his  Majestie's 
navall  forces,"  9th  January  1665.  The  sequel  to  this  fast  came,  5th  September  1666,  "Qlk  day 
appoynts  ane  solemne  thanksgiving  to  be  keeped  on  the  13th  of  this  instant,  Septr.,  and  that 
for  the  late  victorie  obtained  be  the  King's  Majestie's  ffleett  against  the  Navie  of  the  States  of 
Holland."! 

On  the  15th  December  1678,  a  fast  was  intimated,  "  Qlk  day  his  Majestie's  proclamation 
for  ane  General  fast  to  be  kept  throw  the  kingdom  of  Scotland  anent  the  further  discoverie  of 
the  plott  against  his  Majestie's  person  and  protestant  religion  intended  by  the  Jesuits,  and 

♦  6th  Nov.  1711.        t  16th  April  1683. 
t  This  battle,  which  decided  Britain's  naval  supremacy,  was  fought  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames, 
26th  July  1666.     The  Dutch  lost  24  men-of-war,  4  admirals  killed,  and  4000  officers  and  seamen. 


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RULE  OF  THE   CHURCH.  443 

which  fast  is  to  be  observed  upon  Wednesday  nixt,  being  the  eighteen  day."  This  was  the 
plot  invented  and  kept  running— hence  the  phrase,  "further  discoverie"— by  the  infamous 
Titus  Oates  along  with  Dr  Tongue,  on  whase  false  testimony  several  good  and  loyal  Catholics 
were  executed.  The  fast  was  duly  observed  in  Kirkwall,  Mr  Wallace  preaching  from  the  text^ 
Daniel  vi.  21,  22— "O  King,  live  for  ever ;  My  God  halh  sent  his  angel,  and  hath  shut  the 
lions'  mouths.''  '^  Solemn  Fast  for  the  admirable  and  wonderful  deliverance  of  his  Majesty 
from  the  phanatical  conspirators,"  1 6th  September  1683.  This  was  somewhat  late,  referring 
as  it  does  to  the  Rye  House  plot  to  assassinate  Charles  II.  and  his  brother,  James,  Duke  of 
York,  22nd  March,  and  discovered  12th  June  of  that  year.  Sunday,  12th  February  1688— 
**  Intimatione  made  for  a  thanksgiving  day  for  the  Queen's  being  with  child."  This  was 
followed  by  another,  27th  June  1688—"  For  the  blessing  the  Lord  was  pleased  to  confer  upon 
the  nations  by  giving  them  an  new  prince  to  sitt  upon  the  throne  of  his  ancestors."  Thia 
"blessing"  was,  of  course,  James  the  Pretender,  son  of  James  VII.,  and  father  of  Bonnie 
Prince  Charlie. 

But  Kirkwall  sometimes  feasted  or  fasted  after  people  in  the  south  had  long  forgotten 
that  particular  function.  Queen  Anne  fixed  a  national  thanksgiving,  possibly  in  connection 
with  Marlborough's  victories,  to  be  observed,  22nd  October  .1709.  This  order  was  storm- 
stayed  and  could  not  be  announced  in  St.  Magnus  till  5th  January  1710,  and  it  was  appointed 
to  be  held  on  the  17th  of  that  mouth.  Very  probably  the  intimation  did  not  reach  the  islands 
till  some  time  later. 

In  the  time  of  Charles  II.,  the  King's  Birthday  was  looked  upon  as  an  occasion  for  public 
thanksgiving  :— "  The  people  of  this  congregation  are  advertised  to  attend  sermon  on  Thurs- 
day next,  being  the  twentie-nynt  day  of  May."* 

In  the  days  of  George  I.,  the  people  of  Kirkwall  "  solemnised  "  the  occasion  diflferently. 
In  the  Council  Records,  under  date  28th  May  1725,  it  is  minuted  :— 

'*  The  said  day,  The  Magistrates  and  Councill,  this  being  his  ma' tie's  birth  day,  appoint  the  sam^ 
to  be  solemnized  in  manner  following,  To  witt,  Twenty-four  of  the  Inhabitants  have  their  Armes  in 
readiness  against  four  of  the  clock  in  the  afternoon,  and,  since  David  Strang,  p'nt.  Treasurer,  is 
absent,  appoint  Donald  Groat,  Merchant  in  Kirkwall,  to  furnish  what  powder  and  Liquor  may  be 
necessary  on  that  occasion,  which  is  to  be  allowed  to  him  in  his  accompt  of  Intromissions  with  th& 
publick  of  this  Burgh,  and  that  the  said  Donald  Groat  Erect  a  large  Bone  fire  at  the  Cross,  and  that 
the  Bells  be  Rung  from  four  of  the  clock  afternoon  till  Ten  of  the  clock  at  night,  and  that  the 
drumbers  and  pipers  Goe  through  the  town  as  soon  as  the  bells  begin  to  Ring,  and  that  the  Inhabitants 
have  a  Barrall  of  ale  aft.  the  solemnity  is  over." 

It  is  ecclesiastical  history  and  national  experience  that  any  country  in  the  hands  of  an 
undivided  church  must  be  subject  to  priestly  tyranny.  This  was  the  condition  of  Kirkwall 
down  to  the  last  decade  of  the  eighteenth  century,  when,  with  dissent,  came  the  dawn  of 
freedom.  Cuckstool  and  cutty  stool  were  abolished,  the  jougs  were  wrenched  from  church 
door  and  market  cross.  Mar  wick's  Hole  was  closed,  and  the  punitive  power  of  the  clergy  came 
to  an  end.  Not  that  the  Seceders  were  less  strict  than  was  the  Church  by  law  established  ;  on 
the  contrary,  they  posed  as  **  the  most  straitest  sect  of  onr  religion,"  t ;  but,  with  a  choice  of 
churches,  ministers  were  bound  to  be  civil  lest  they  should  lose  their  customers.  The  rapid 
spread  of  the  Secession  movement  has  been  attributed  to  the  carelessness  of  the  Established 
clergy,  but  there  was  much  in  the  Church  itself  requiring  reform,  and  Scotland  was  ripe  for 
the  change. 

In  the  middle  of  last  century  the  burning  question,  no  doubt,  was  the  Law  of  Patronage^ 

♦  S.  R.,  23rd  May  1673. 

t  Even  as  late  as  1766,  they  protested  against  the  repeal  of  the  penal  laws  against  witchcraft. 


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444  KIRKWALL   IN    THE   ORKNEYS. 

but  earnest  men  felt  that  this  was  not  the  only  abuse  to  be  dealt  with.  In  1730,  the  Assembly 
had  enacted  that  in  future  no  reasons  of  dissent  **  against  the  determination  of  church 
judicatures"  should  be  placed  on  record,  and  it  was  defiance  of  this  gag  that  brought  Mr 
Ebenezer  Erskine  into  collision  with  ecclesiastical  authority.  In  1733,  along  with  other  three 
ministers,  he  seceded.  In  1737,  four  ministers  joined  them,  and,  in  1747,  the  dissenters 
numbered  thirty-two  congregations.  Then,  however,  a  rupture  took  place  on  the  question  of 
the  burgess  oath,  some  holding  that  no  consistent  se<?eder  could  take  that  oath,  while  others 
asserted  their  right  to  swear  if  they  chose.  The  parties  separated  under  the  titles  Burghers 
and  Anti-Burghers,  and  kept  aloof  for  seventy  years,  when  they  re-united,  8th  September  1820. 
And  here  it  may  be  interesting  to  notice  that  the  Erskines,  Ebenezer  and  Ralph,  the 
originators  of  the  Secession  movement,  were  of  Orcadian  descent.  Their  father,  the  Rev. 
Henry  Erskine,  of  Chirnside,  took  as  his  second  wife,  Margaret  Halcro.  When  she  left 
Orkney  for  the  south  she  had  with  her,  after  the  manner  of  the  time,  a  certificate  of  character 
from  the  Kirk  Session,  which  certificate  has  been  preserved  and  published  in  the  biography  of 
her  son,  Ebenezer  : — 

"At  the  Kirk  of  Evie,  May  27,  1666.— To  all  and  sundiy  into  whose  hands  these  presents  shall 
come,  be  it  known  that  the  bearer  hereof,  Margaret  Halcro,  lawful  daughter  to  the  deceased  Hugh 
Halcro,  in  the  Isle  of  Weir,  and  Margaret  Stewart,  his  spouse,  hath  lived  in  the  parish  of  Evie 
since  her  infancy  in  good  fame  and  report,  is  a  discreet,  godly  young  woman,  and,  to  our  certain 
knowledge,  free  of  all  acantlal,  reproach,  or  blame,  as  also  that  she  is  descended  by  her  father  of  the 
House  of  Halcro,  which  is  a  very  ancient  and  honourable  family  in  the  Orkneys— the  noble  and  potent 
Earl  of  Early,  and  Lairds  of  Dun,  in  Angus  ;  and  by  her  mother,  of  the  Laird  of  Barscobe,  in 
Oalloway.  In  witness  whereof,  we,  the  Minister  and  Clerk,  have  subscribed  these  presents  at  Evie, 
day,  month,  vear  of  God,  and  place  foresaid,  and  give  way  to  all  other  noblemen,  gentlemen,  and 
ministers  to  cfo  the  same.  (Sic  Subscr.)        Mr  Morisone,  Minister  of  Ene. 

George  Ballentine. 
James  Traill. 

1666."  William  Ballenden. 

This  interesting  young  person  married,  1674,  in  her  27th  year,  the  Rev.  Henry  Erskine, 
and  died,  14th  January  1725,  in  the  house  of  her  son.  Rev.  Ebenezer  Erskine.  She  was 
buried  at  Scotland  Wells,  where  her  tombstone  is  still  to  be  seen.* 

Poor  Mrs  Erskine  had  one  terrible  experience.  The  minister,  a  widower  when  he  married 
Marion  Halcro,  was  deeply  attached  to  his  young  wife,  and  bitter  was  his  anguish  when,  a  few 
months  after  the  marriage,  she  was  cut  off  by  a  short  illness.  Mr  Erskine  resolved  that  her 
trinkets  and  jewellery  should  be  buried  with  her,  and  a  valuable  ring  was  left  upon  her  finger. 
When  John  Carr,  village  carpenter,  and  sexton  of  Chirnside  Parish  Church,  came  to  screw 
down  the  coffin  lid,  the  minister,  gazing  on  the  features  of  his  beloved  wife,  thought  he  saw 
the  lips  quiver.  Every  available  test  was  vainly  tried  in  the  fond  hope  that  life  had  not 
departed.  But  Carr  had  seen  the  jewellery,  examined  the  bracelets,  and  had  even  tried 
whether  the  ring  would  slip  off  without  difficulty,  for  he  thought  it  a  pity  that  such  beautiful 
articles  should  be  lost.  To  save  himself  subsequent  labour  and  time,  the  nails  were  loosely 
screwed,  and  in  late  afternoon  at  the  graveyard,  consulting  the  feelings  of  the  bereaved 
husband,  the  earth  was  lightly  thrown  in,  the  considerate  sexton  remarking  that  he  could 
finish  the  work  better  in  daylight.  At  night  Carr  returned  to  the  burial  ground,  quickly 
removed  the  earth,  and  opened  the  coffin.  The  ring  was  first  sought,  but  it  refused  to  leave 
its  place.  Taking  his  knife,  the  operator  placed  the  finger  on  the  edge  of  the  coffin  and 
proceeded  to  amputation.  With  the  opening  of  a  vein  vitality  was  restored,  and  Mrs  Erskine 
uttered  a  piercing  skriek.    Carr  yelled  and  fled,  leaving  the  lady  to  get  out  of  the  grave  as 

*  H.  L.  Papers. 


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RULE   OF  THE   CHURCH.  445 

best  she  might.  Weak  and  cold  as  a  corpse  she  found  her  way  home,  but  even  at  the  Manse 
her  troubles  were  not  over.  The  door  was  locked,  though  the  inmates  had  not  retired.  The 
minister  was  strangely  affected  by  the  knock,  which  was  exactly  that  of  his  late  wife,  and  the 
old  servant  who  opened  the  door  fainted  on  seeing  the  apparition.  But  Margaret  Halcro,  even 
in  such  an  emergency,  was  practical.  The  terrified  husband  could  not  believe  the  voice  which 
declared  that  this  was  no  ghost,  but  his  own  living  and  loving  wife.  While  he  stood  helpless, 
Mrs  Erskine,  shivering  in  her  grave  clothes,  slipped  past  and  hurried  to  the  study,  where  there 
was  a  fire.  Stimulants  were  administered,  and  the  bed,  warmed  with  hot  bricks  soon  restored 
her  to  comfort,  and  she  was  able  to  relate  in  detail  her  terrible  experiences,  through  all  of 
which  she  had  been  perfectly  conscious.  She  told  of  her  great  effort  to  speak  when  her 
husband  was  looking  at  her  in  her  coffin  ;  of  Carr's  examination  of  the  jewellery  ;  and  of  her 
calculating  on  the  sexton's  return  to  the  grave.  Mrs  Erskine  survived  her  husband  twenty 
years. 

In  Kirkwall,  the  first  seceders  were  laymen  without  a  clerical  leader.  John  Rusland, 
better  known  in  connection  with  Secession  as  John  Russell,  had  been  a  journeyman  tailor  in 
Newcastle,  where  he  attended  the  Anti-Burgher  meeting-house  under  the  pastorship  of  the 
Rev.  William  Graham.  On  his  return  to  Kirkwall  he  organised  a  small  band  of  about  a  dozen 
persons  for  the  purpose  of  holding  regular  prayer  meetings.  One  who  joined  this  party  had 
attended  the  ministry  of  the  Rev.  Robert  Walker,  an  earnest  Established  Church  clergyman 
in  Edinburgh.  These  two  often  spoke  of  these  ministers  in  the  hearing  of  their  friends,  and, 
says  the  biographer  of  Dr  Paterson  : — '*  The  result  of  these  remarks,  and  of  conversations 
which  arose  out  of  them,  was  an  application  to  the  General  Associate  (Anti-Burgher) 
Presbytery  of  Edinburgh  for  supply  of  sermon,  which  was  granted  in  1795." 

An  incident  which,  according  to  local  tradition,  had  its  effect  in  procuring  the  settlement 
of  a  Secession  minister  in  Kirkwall  is  not  without  interest.  During  the  time  of  the  French 
war,  the  only  medium  of  communication  between  Orkney  and  Leith  was  a  small  sloop,  which 
crept  along  the  coast,  ready  at  any  time  to  run  ashore,  if  necessary,  to  avoid  capture.  One 
Sunday  morning,  waiting  for  a  wind,  the  heroic  commander  of  this  little  vessel  was  down  on 
Leith  pier,  when  he  was  accosted  by  a  stranger,  who  invited  him  to  come  to  church.  His 
reply  was  to  the  effect  that  he  had  something  else  to  think  about  just  then,  and  that  he  had 
no  great  relish  for  church  at  any  time.  His  new  friend  assured  him  that  if  he  came  this  time 
he  would  wish  to  come  back.  Accordingly  they  went  together,  and  heard  Mr  Culbertson,  the 
first  Secession  minister  of  Leith,  then  recently  ordained.  After  sermon,  the  skipper,  who  was 
deeply  affected,  expressed  the  wish  that  his  people  at  home  could  have  the  benefit  of  such 
preaching.  He  had  some  conversation  with  the  minister,  who  felt  much  interested  in  the 
case  of  Kirkwall.  On  his  return  north,  the  skipper  joined  the  prayer-meeting  party,  and  gave 
his  experience.  At  his  friend's  desire,  and  through  his  medium,  their  wants  were  made 
known  in  Leith,  and  Mr  Culbertson,  who  brought  the  matter  before  the  Associate  Presbytery, 
was  himself  deputed  to  visit  Kirkwall  and  report.  The  result  was  that  pulpit  supply  was  at 
once  granted. 

Already  the  Kirkwall  seceders  had  erected  their  meeting-house.  On  the  8th  of  October 
1793,  Malcolm  Laing  granted  charter  to  "  John  Sinclair,  John  Russland,  and  Lawrence 
Shearer,  Master  Taylors  ;  William  Folsetter,  Blacksmith  ;  John  Anderson,  and  Andrew 
Louttit,  Shoemakers  ;  and  William  Flett,  shopkeeper,  of  All  and  Haill  the  space,  eighty  feet 
long  and  sixty  feet  broad,  of  the  lands  of  Pabdale,  extending  from  the  water  course  in  the 
grass  park,  contiguous  to  the  gate  of  the  Ball-Lay  of  Pabdale,  westward  along  the  high  road 
on  the  south  to  the  length  of  eighty  feet,  and  from  the  said  high  road  northward  to  the 
breadth  of  sixty  feet." 


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446  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

The  first  Secession  Church  is  referred  to  in  the  journal  of  the  Haldanes  in  1797  :— "  Had 
the  happiness  to  hear  the  gospel  preached  in  the  afternoon  in  the  Anti-burgher  meeting.  The 
house  is  unfortunately  too  small  ;  it  cannot  accommodate  all  the  hearers.  It  may  hold  about 
700  people." 

In  1805,  this  meeting-house  was  found  to  be  utterly  inadequate  to  the  wants  of  the  con- 
gregation. Sometimes  they  had  to  leave  the  church  and  hear  sermon  in  the  open  air.  Mr 
Laing  was  again  approached  ;  a  larger  space  was  secured,  and  also  a  feu  for  a  manse.  The 
persons  signing  the  missive  of  sale  on  this  occasion  were  : — '*  Rev.  William  Broadfoot, 
minister  and  moderator  ;  John  Anderson,  shoemaker  ;  Oliver  Scott,  weaver  ;  Andrew  Louttit^ 
shoemaker ;  William  Bremner,  wright ;  Edward  Wishart,  mason  ;  Thomas  Jameson,  merchant ; 
Eobert  Borwick,  nierchant ;  Wm.  Berwick,  merchant — all  of  Kirkwall ;  John  Gorn,  James 
Laughton,  and  John  Spence,  all  farmers  in  the  parish  of  Holm ;  James  Sclater,  mason, 
Orphir  ;  Peter  Skethaway,  surgeon,  Stromness  ;  John  Heddle,  senr.,  farmer.  Firth ;  Alexi. 
Busland,  taylor,  Shapinsay  ;  Robt.  Petrie  and  James  Spence,  both  weavers  in  the  parish  of 
St.  Andrews — all  Elders,  being  the  present  Members  of  the  Kirk-Session  of  the  Anti-burgher 
Associate  Congregation  near  Kirkwall,  in  the  parish  of  St.  Ola." 

Neill,  in  the  account  of  his  tour,  notices  this  second  church  :— "  Among  the  public 
buildings  of  Kirkwall  we  must  not  forget  to  rank  the  New  Church — ^a  large  meeting-house  so 
called,  belonging  to  the  class  of  Anti-burgher  Seceders.  It  is  a  spacious  church,  and  the 
preacher  being  popular,  the  audience  seldom  falls  short  of  a  thousand." 

Again,  in  1849,  the  United  Presbyterians  of  Kirkwall  had  to  pull  down  their  old  barn  and 
build  a  greater.  If  the  new  church  cannot  be  called  a  handsome  building,  it  satisfies  the  eye, 
externally  and  internally,  as  fulfilling  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  erected— the  comfortable 
accommodation  of  a  congregation  of  nearly  two  thousand.  This  church  has  the  experience, 
not  unique  perhaps,  but  certainly  uncommon  in  ecclesiastical  history,  that  during  the  hundred 
years  of  its  existence  it  has  had  only  three  ministers. 

The  first  minister  of  the  New  Church,  the  Rev.  William  Broadfoot,  was  a  native  of 
Whithorn.  He  had  calls  to  Bo'ness  and  Kirkwall,  and  on  his  acceptance  of  the  latter,  he  was 
ordained,  3rd  August  1798.  In  1817,  Mr  Broadfoot  received  and  accepted  a  call  to  Oxendon 
Chapel,  London.  He  was  in  Edinburgh  attending  the  Synod  when  this  invitation  was  sent 
him,  and,  strangely  enough,  he  never  again  saw  his  Kirkwall  congregation.  A  godly  member,* 
who  kept  a  faithful  record  of  the  sermons  preached  in  the  Secession  Church  from  28th 
November  1805  to  6th  April  1823,  shows  us  the  work  of  Mr  Broadfoot's  last  Sunday  in 
Kirkwall.  "Sunday,  27th  Apr.— Acts  13th  ch.,  42  verse  to  the  end— *  And  when  the  Jews 
were  gone  out  of  the  synagogue,  the  Gentiles  besought  that  these  words  might  be  preached  to 
them  the  next  Sabbath.'  Afternoon — Jude  20th  and  21st  verses,  '  But  ye,  beloved,  building  up 
yourselves  on  your  most  holy  faith,*"  etc.  "  Evening— Mr  Broadfoot  read  a  reasoning  be- 
tween a  Jew  and  a  Protestant,  with  Prayer  and  Praise."  The  next  entry  is  :— "  Sunday,  4th 
May  1817 — No  sermon  here,  Mr  Broadfoot  being  off  at  the  Synod,  and  has  got  a  call  to  a 
place  in  London."  It  would  appear  that  he  went  at  once  from  Edinbiirgh  to  be  ordained  to 
his  new  charge,  and  this  on  the  advice  of  the  Synod.  On  Sunday  the  1st  of  June,  having 
noted  the  afternoon  text,  our  historian  enters  : — "  In  consequence  of  the  Call  from  the  Congre- 
gation at  London,  Mr  Broadfoot  has  accepted  the  same,  and  Mr  Pringle,  of  Newcastle,  has 
been  appointed  down  here  for  a  few  weeks.  And  Mr  Broadfoot  was  to  be  received  in  the 
church  in  London  the  last  Tuesday,  being  3rd  of  June."  On  the  Sunday  following,  "  Mr 
Pringle  read  the  decision  of  the  Synod  in  appointing  Mr  Broadfoot  for  London."    There  must 

*  Mr  Mainland,  favoured  by  James  M.  MacBeath,  Esq. 


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RULE  OF  THE   CHURCH.  447 

have  been  a  strong  necessity  for  this  haste,  though  what  it  was  does  not  appear ;  but  on  the 
surface  of  the  case,  there  was  scant  courtesy  shown  to  the  Kirkwall  congregation. 

In  consequence  of  having  lost  his  voice,  Mr  Broadfoot  resigned  his  London  charge  in 
1830.  He  so  far  recovered,  however,  as  to  be  able  to  accept  the  office  of  theological  tutor  to 
Cheshunt  College,  Lady  Huntingdon's,  Herefordshire.  He  retained  his  position  as  clerk  to 
the  Secession  Church  in  London  till  his  death  in  1837.  * 

During  the  greater  part  of  his  ministry  in  Kirkwall,  Mr  Broadfoot  lived  in  the  Strynd, 
for  although  a  site  for  a  manse  had  been  secured  in  1805,  it  was  not  tiU  1813  that  the  congre- 
gation felt  justified  in  building.  In  the  following  year,  Mr  Henderson,  one  of  the  elders, 
built  a  house  between  the  manse  and  the  Grammar  School  playground,  and  these  were  the 
first  two  houses  in  "  the  new  street  called  King  Street."  t 

The  Rev.  William  Broadfoot  and  his  brother,  Dr  Broadfoot,  married  two  sisters,  daughters 
of  James  Sutherland  of  Burray.  The  minister  and  his  wife  had  four  sons,  one  of  whom  died 
in  infancy.  This  child  and  its  grandfather  lie  buried  in  St.  Magnus  Churchyard.  The  other 
three  became  soldiers,  and  died  on  the  field. 

Mr  Pringle,  who  had  taken  up  Mr  Broadfoot's  work,  gave  such  satisfaction  that  the 
congregation  honoured  him  with  a  hearty  and  unanimous  call.  He  preferred,  however,  to 
adhere  to  his  Newcastle  charge.  Then  they  invited  Mr  Stark,  of  Forres,  who  also  declined. 
On  receiving  this  second  refusal,  they  resolved  to  leave  placed  ministers  alone,  and  to  secure 
the  services  of  an  able  young  man  unattached.  With  this  view,  the  Session  requested  the 
Edinburgh  Presbytery  to  send  them  the  best  supply  from  the  list  of  probationers.  The  answer 
of  Mr  Culbertson,  the  clerk,  was — "  I  have  sent  Mr  Whyte  and  Mr  Paterson,  and  I  can  send 
you  none  better."  "  Mr  Whyte  preceded  Mr  Paterson  in  Kirkwall  by  several  weeks,  and  made 
a  deep  and,  as  was  thought,  a  permanent  impression  on  the  congregation."  The  two  candi- 
dates separately  visited  the  North  Isles,  and  after wai'ds  met  in  Kirkwall. 

"  It  must  have  been  aa  exciting  scene  for  these  two  rivals  to  have  closed  their  respective  pro- 
bations in  Kirkwall,  by  one  preaching  in  the  forenoon  and  the  other  in  the  afternoon  of  the  last 
Sabbath  previous  to  their  leaving  for  the  south. 

*'  Mr  Whyte  had  a  popular  and  pleasing  style  of  address,  while  Boanerges'  power  was  the  marked 
element  in  the  preaching  of  Mr  Paterson. 

*'  After  the  departure  of  the  young  preachers,  there  was  a  congregational  movement  with  the  view 
to  petition  the  Edinburgh  Presbytery  for  a  moderation.  A  meeting  was  held,  and  it  was  judged 
expedient  first  to  test  the  numerical  strength  of  the  two  parties  respectively. 

*'  When  it  was  found  that  they  were  not  far  from  being  equal! v  divided,  the  chairman — the  late 
Mr  Andrew  Henderson,  a  known  adherent  of  Mr  Paterson,  and  a  life-lone  friend — said,  with  emotion, 
*  We  cannot  go  forward  in  this  divided  state ' ;  and,  believing  that  the  large  minority  might  prefer 
Mr  Whyte  and  yet  have  no  objection  to  Mr  Paterson,  he  asked  all  those  who  were  thus  minoed  to 
stand  up,  when  all  the  supporters  of  Mr  Whyte,  with  the  exception  of  little  more  than  half-a-dozen, 
did  so,  and  this  happy  circumstance  encouraged  them  to  go  forward  for  a  moderation. "  $ 

When  Mr  Paterson  accepted  the  call  to  Kirkwall  Secession  Church,  Mr  Henderson  wrote 
to  him  :— 

"  Kirkwall,  24th  May  1820. 

*'  My  Very  dear  Sir, — It  was  with  no  slight  degree  of  pleasure  that  I  learned  that  you  had 
accepted  of  the  call  of  this  congregation,  and  that  the  hope  of  your  becoming  my  next-door  neighbour, 
which  I  expressed  to  you  when  in  Kirkwall,  will  ere  long  be  fully  realised.  I  need  hardly  say  to  you 
that  it  is  my  earnest  wish  and  prayer  that  the  connection  which  is  about  to  be  formed  betwixt  you 
and  this  people  may  be  sanctified  to  both  parties ;  that  you  may  become  an  eminent  blessing  to  this 
part  of  the  Church  ;  have  many  seals  of  your  ministry- ;  and  that  you  may  long,  very  long,  continue 
to  reap  the  fruits  of  vour  labour,  and  have  much  personal  happiness  in  this  place. 

'*  At  the  time  of  your  acceptance  of  the  call,  another  piece  of  pleasing  intelligence  was  communi- 

*  Mackelvie's  Annals.        t  Omond's  Sasiue  in  Albert  Street,  1828.        :|:  Dr  Paterson's  Memoirs. 


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448  KIRKWALL    IN    THK   ORKNBYS. 

cated,  viz.,  the  Union,*  which  it  appears  is  likely  to  take  place.  This  measure,  I  trust,  will  ba 
carried  into  effect  without  any  rupture,  and  that  the  eight  or  nine  members  of  S^oiod  who  dissented 
will  see  it  to  be  their  duty  to  fall  in  with  their  brethren,  seeing  that  they  have  obtained,  by  Mr 
Hogg's  amendment,  all  that  they  can  reasonably  ask  respecting  covenanting  from  those  who  do  not 
view  the  subject  in  the  same  light  with  themselves. 

<<  We  regret  that  your  settlement  here  is  not  likely  to  take  place  until  after  the  Union,  on 
account  of  the  new  formula  which  will  then  fall  to  be  passed.  Not  having  received  any  official  communi- 
cation on  the  subject,  we  only  know  this  from  the  conjectures  of  some  of  our  members  who  were  jouth 
while  the  Synod  was  sitting.  For  my  part  I  indulge  the  hope  of  seeing  you  here  in  the  month  of  July. 
But  of  this  you  are  the  best  judge.  One  thing,  however,  I  know  is  that  you  will  receive  a  hearty 
welcome,  come  when  you  may  ;  and  that  your  presence  amongst  us  is  earnestly  and  anxiously  longed 
for. 

"I  will  take  it  very  kind  to  let  me  hear  from  you,  with  all  the  news  you  think  intm-esting. — 
And  I  remain,  very  truly  and  sincerely,  your  friend,  (Signed)        Andw.  HENDEKSoy." 

It  was  not  till  October  1820  that  Mr  Paterson  was  ordained  :— 

"Tuesday,  24th  Octr.— The  Ordination  of  Mr  Robert  Paterson.  Mr  Christie  Opened  the 
Meeting  with  Prayer,  and  Mr  Hogs  preached  from  2nd  Timothy  4  Ch.,  first  part  of  the  2nd  verse  in 
connection  with  the  first  part  of  thenrst  verse — '  I  charge  thee,  therefore,  before  God  and  the  Lord  Jesus 
Christ,  Preach  the  word  —and  then  proceeded  to  Ordination  with  Prayer  and  the  laying  on  the  hands  of 
the  Presbytery.  Afterward  Mr  Renwick  Preached  from  John  lOth  Ch.,  11th  verse,  '  I  am  the  good 
Shepherd.'" 

The  biographer  of  Dr  Paterson  gives  Mr  Renwick  a  text  from  Isaiah ;  but,  with  the 
highest  respect  for  the  memory  of  the  excellent  mant  who  was  his  authority,  preference  must 
be  given  to  the  history  of  the  transactions  committed  to  paper  immediately  after  the  events.  { 

In  1831,  Mr  Henderson  was  promoted  to  Dundee,  and  Mr  Paterson,  who  was  in  Lanark 
when  he  heard  of  it,  wrote  to  his  friend  in  the  warmest  terms  : — 

**  I  need  not  conceal  that  I  read  those  parts  of  your  letter  which  relate  to  your  leaving  KirkwaU 
with  deep  and  painful  emotion.  .  .  .  While  I  am  writing,  sufifer  me  to  say  that  I  will  painfully 
feel  your  removal.  As  a  kind  neighbour,  a  faithful  and  affectionate  friend,  an  active  and  efficient 
elder,  and  as  a  steady  supporter  of  good  public  measures,  I  will  indeed  feel  your  loss.  I  take  the 
liberty  of  writing  this  even  at  the  risk  of  encroaching  on  what  I  know  to  be  your  sensitive  feelings  ob 
the  point  of  favourable  testimony.     .     .     . 

"  I  am  concerned  about  your  arrangements.  If  you  make  them  before  I  see  you,  I  need  not  say 
that  you  are  more  than  at  liberty  to  draw  upon  my  attention  and  interest  and  care  about  the 
children."  § 

Of  Dr  Paterson  it  is  almost  unnecessary  to  say  anything  here.  His  "  Memoir,"  written 
with  affectionate  care,  gives  a  full  exhibition  of  the  man  and  his  work,  but  those  who  came 
into  intimate  contact  with  him,  and  especially  those  who  as  children  came  under  his  care, 
have  experiences  beyond  the  biographer's  reach  : — 

**  That  best  portion  of  a  good  man's  life. 
His  little,  nameless,  unremembered  acta 
Of  kindness  and  of  love." 

Unrecorded  these  acts  may  be,  but  not  unremembered.  Of  his  detestation  of  slander,  the 
present  writer  once  had  a  striking  instance.  Being  in  the  U.P.  Manse  of  Stronsay,  when 
there  was  a  gathering  of  ministers  there,  it  happened,  in  social  conversation,  that  one  of  them 
told  a  foolish  story  to  the  injury  of  the  character  of  a  clergyman  of  another  denomination. 
The  Doctor's  eyes  blazed  as  he  almost  shouted,  "  Where  did  you  hear  that  7'    "  Oh,"  was  the 

*  Of  Burghers  and  Anti-Burghers,  Oct.  1820. 

t  The  late  Mr  John  White,  speaking  from  memory.        t  By  Mr  Mainland. 
§  One  of  the  children  referred  to  is  now  a  Doctor  of  Divinity  and  a  very  distinguished  minister 
of  the  United  Free  Church. 


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RULE   OF  THE   CHURCH.  44» 

reply,  "  it  is  commoa  rumour/'    "  And  have  you  lived  so  long  here  without  having  discovered 
that  in  Orkney  common  rumour  is  a  common  liar  ?" 

A  striking  feature  in  Dr  Paterson's  work  was  his  Sunday  School,  which,  as  far  as 
numbers  were  concerned,  was  a  success  from  the  beginning  :  — "  Sunday,  25th  Feby.,* 
Evening,  Mr  Paterson  began  a  Sabbath  evening  school  in  the  Meeting-House,  when  about  200 
scholars  came  forward  and  were  divided  into  classes."  The  scholars  joined  as  children,  and, 
as  a  rule,  only  left  when  they  married.  Besides  the  Sunday  School,  Dr  Paterson  succeeded 
in  establishing  and  endowing  an  Infant  School,  "  and  for  nearly  forty  years  watched  over  it 
with  something  like  paternal  care."  His  biographer  says  :— "  The  success  of  the  institution 
was  much  owing  to  the  fitness  and  devoted  energy  of  the  first  teacher,  the  Rev.  Peter  Ban- 
natyne."  De  mortuis  speak  only  what  is  good,  and  all  the  surviving  infants  who  passed 
through  Mr  Bannatyne's  hands  will  bear  ready  testimony  to  his  energy. 

The  Subscription  School  also  was  an  institution  in  which  the  Doctor  felt  much  interest. 
It  was  partly  the  outcome  of  the  marked  neglect  of  the  English  department  in  the  Kirkwall 
Grammar  School,  and  partly  the  result  of  the  Secession  movement  in  the  town.  The  two 
schools,  taken  together,  represent  what  are  known  as  the  classical  and  modern  sides  in  our 
larger  public  schools. 

In  1825,  Mr  Thomas  Thomas  was  master  of  the  Secession  School.  After  him  came  Mr 
James  Copland,  whose  introduction  to  teaching  was  as  locum  tenens  for  Mr  Paterson  of 
the  Grammar  School.  Mr  Copland's  son,  James,  is  also  associated  with  this  school,  but  is 
better  known  in  connection  with  his  excellent  work  as  Deputy  Curator  in  the  historical 
department  t»f  the  Register  House  in  Edinburgh.  The  name  of  Mr  William  Scott,  however,, 
as  being  most  recent,  is  now  j)erhaps  best  remembered  as  master  here.  The  old  school  having 
been  pulled  down,  was  rebuilt  by  the  late  Miss  Margaret  Inkster,  who  handed  it  over  to  the 
School  Board  on  condition  that  they  retained  the  services  of  Mr  Scott. 

The  following  letter,  written  to  Mr  Paul  on  liis  acceptance  of  the  call  to  Sanday,  shows 
Dr  Paterson  in  his  lighter  moods  : — 

*'  Kirkwall,  18th  October  1830. 

*'  Before  answering  your  letter,  give  me  leave  to  ask  if  you  received  mine,  and,  if  you  did,  why 
you  did  not  answer  it  ?  Perhaps  you  will  Ikj  prepared  with  answers  to  these  enquiries  by  the  time  I 
see  you. 

**  As  to  furniture,  I  advise  you  by  till  means  to  bring  it  along  with  you,  but  the  question  is  a)>out 
the  parts  of  furniture.  Well,  the  first  part  of  the  furniture  1  would  advise  you,  gravely,  seriously', 
earnestly,  advise  you  to  bring  along  with  you  is  a  \oife. 

**  As  to  the  quality  of  this  part  of  the  furniture,  you  are  the  best  judge,  but  be  sure  that  yea 
bring  it  along  with  you,  or  at  any  rate  that  you  tryste  it. 

•*  Having  given  my  advice  about  the  fiVst  part  of  the  furniture,  let  me  proceed  to  the  inferior 
parts.  As  they  do  in  other  places,  we  sometimes  sit  in  Orkney,  yuu  will  need  chairs.  We  take  our 
dinner  as  they  do  in  other  places,  yon  will  need  tables,  plates,  spoons,  knives,  and  forks.*  We  drink 
tea,  you  will  need  cups,  saucers,  and  teaspoons,  and  not  forgetting  her  presiding  ladyship,  the  teapot. 
We  sometimes  go  to  bed  at  night,  you  will  need  blankets.  As  we  have  plenty  of  geese  in  the  country,, 
you  need  not  bring  feathers  with  you.  We  need  a  fire  in  Orkney,  ycm  uiay  bring  a  poker  with  you. 
We  like  luxuries,  you  may  bring  carpets.  By  the  way,  when  1  speak  of  luxuries,  I  think  you  may 
bring  a  stock  of  sugar  and  tea,  and  any  other  things  which  Scotland  and  your  purse  can  afford  and 
which  are  cheap  and  good. 

'*To  be  seiious,  I  think  you  will  do  well  to  bring  every  article  of  furniture  you  will  need.  You 
doubtless  could  get  things  in  Kirkwall,  but  upon  the  whole  you  will  get  them  cheaper  and  better  in 
the  South.  I  therefore  think  you  will  consult  your  interest  to  bring  such  things  with  you  as  you 
will  easily  foresee  you  will  need. 

"  I  have  no  time  for  news.  Your  friend,  Mr  Buchan,t  is  in  Sanday  at  present.  We  are  all  welU 
— I  am,  my  Dear  Sir,  yours  Faithfully,  Robert  Paterson. 

"  Vide  next  Page  : — I  am  really  sorry  that  you  are  so  long  in  coming  down.  I  really  do  not 
know  how  the  ordination  will  be  managed  at  such  a  season.     The  **  Canning  ":{:  sails  from  this  th& 

*  1821.        t  Secession  minister  in  Holm.         %  George  Canning,  sailing  packet. 

3m 


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450  KIRKWALL   IN    THB   ORKNEYS. 

first  hour  there  is  wind.  I  shall  direct  the  Skipper  to  write  you.  I  have  some  thoughts  of  writing 
the  Pbr.  requesting  them  to  take  in  the  remainder  of  your  trial  at  their  meeting  on  the  1st  Tuesday  oi 
Nov.  ;  at  any  rate,  let  me  say  this,  it  will  be  indispensably  necessary  for  the  ordination  to  take  place 
very  soon  after  your  arrival,  so  that  I  hope  you  will  come  ready  with  all  your  trials  that  may  not  be 
giv>eii  in.  R.  P." 

Having  had  the  planting  of  most  of  the  Secession  churches  in  Orkney,  Dr  Paterson 
exercised  an  influence  amounting  almost  to  authority  over  the  members  of  the  Presbytery,  a 
iwsition  which,  it  is  needless  to  say,  could  never  again  be  assumed  by  any  other  man. 

On  10th  January  18(35,  the  Rev.  David  Webster  was  ordained  colleague  and  successor  to 
Dr  Paterson,  and  since  the  Doctor's  death,  in  1870,  the  whole  burden  of  the  pastorship  of  this 
^eat  congiegation  has  devolved  upon  him.  The  cohesion  of  the  membership  of  this  church  from 
its  foundation  has  been  very  remarkable,  and  for  numbers,  activity,  and  liberality  (i^ecuniary), 
with  small  injustice  to  any  other,  this  congregation  may  be  descril>ed  as  second  to  none  in  the 
^eat  Presbyterian  body  to  which  it  belongs. 

Almost  c()nteniiK)raneous  with  the  planting  of  the  Secession  Church  in  Kirkwall  was  the 
visit  of  ^Ir  Haldane  and  his  friends,  Aikman  and  Rait,  and  the  religious  revival  which 
followed  tliat  visit.  In  his  journal,  Mr  Haldane  gives  a  somewhat  exaggerated  descri[)tion  of 
the  spiritual  destitution  of  Kirkwall  : — 

"The  islands  of  Orkney,  according  to  our  information,  which  is  rendered  .strongly  credible  by 
what  we  actually  witnessed,  have  been,  for  a  j»eriod  beyond  the  memory  of  any  man  living  (excepting 
in  one  or  two  solitary  instances)  as  much  in  need  of  the  true  gospel  of  Jesus  Christ,  eo  far  as  i-espects 
the  preaching  of  it,  as  any  of  the  islaiulH  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Many  of  the  parishes  conipreiiend  two 
or  three  tlifTerent  islands.  In  each  of  these  the  minister  should  preach  occasionally  ;  but  owing  to 
the  want  of  churclies,  c>r  ratiier  to  the  chunrhes  being  in  want  of  repair,  as  well  as  to  the  occasional 
trouble  and  difficulty  of  crossing  the  firths  which  intersect  these  islands,  to  say  nothing  of  the  want 
of  zeal,  nniny  of  the  people  see  their  pastor  but  seldom  in  the  course  of  the  year.  It  is  a  fact  that  in 
some  cases,  where  tlierc  are  two  islands  in  a  parish,  or  two  parishes  annexed  in  one  island,  and  a 
church  in  repair  ojily  in  one  of  them,  the  minister  preaches  in  it  the  one  Sabbath,  but  the  next,  when 
it  falls  to  the  turn  of  the  other  island  or  parish,  he  neither  preaches  there  nor  in  his  other  church, 
though  it  may  atljoin  his  manse." 

This  seems  to  be  a  fairly  true  description,  but  the  next  statement  must  be  taken  with  a 
very  large  pinch  of  salt,  even  thougli  coming  from  an  evangelist  : — 

*'  The  manners  and  conduct  of  the  people,  as  in  every  other  place,  are  corrupted  in  a  due  pro- 
portion to  their  ignorance  of  the  gospel,  and  to  ncj  part  in  Orkney,  as  we  learn,  did  this  remark  more 
justly  apply  tlian  it  did  al>out  five  or  six  years  ago  to  Kirkwall,  where,  excepting  two  or  three  indi- 
viduals, the  great  body  of  the  people  were  utter  strangers  to  the  doctrine  of  justification  by  faith." 

We  know  that  Kirkwall  had  enjoyed  the  services  of  good,  earnest,  enlightened  ministers, 
.Wallace,  Wilson,  and  Baikie,  yet  only  "  two  or  three  individuals  "  had  ever  heard  of  this 
doctrine.  If  this  statement  were  true,  it  would  show  that  payment  by  results  in  the  preach- 
ing profession  would  yield  very  small  stipends.  It  is  remarkable  how^  the  spirit  of  ecclesia.stical 
rivalry  warps  the  judgment  of  the  best  of  men  and  renders  them  unfair  to  those  who  differ 
from  them  on  i>etty  jxnnts  of  church  government.  Mr  Haldane  tells  us  how  the  two  or  three 
sux^erior  persons  in  Kirkwall  accpiired  their  enlightenment  : — "  A  native  of  Orkney,  who  had 
been  ap])rentice  to  a  pious  tradesman  in  Kirkwall" — there  w^as  fortunately  one  good  man 
in  this  little  northern  Sodom — "went  to  NewTastle,  where  he  attended  with  profit  the 
ministry  of  Mr  Graham.  Then  follows  the  origin  of  the  Secession  movement.  The  patent 
fact,  however,  is,  instead  of  "  two  or  three  individuals,"  there  were  within  the  Cathedral  so 
many  earnest  people  as  to  form,  with  their  families,  at  the  first  swarm  from  the  established 
hive,  an  enthusiastic  congregation  of  seven  hundred  souls. 


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RULE   OF  THE   CHURCH.  451 

But  a  good  deal  more  than  this  little  involuntary  misrepresentation  might  be  forgiven  Mr 
Haldane  and  hLs  friends  for  the  excellent  work  they  did  in  Orkney.  They  arrived  on  the  12th 
of  August,  and  left  on  the  30th— an  eighteen  days'  mission,  which  left  great  and  lasting^ 
rasults.  Tlie  meeting-place  in  Kirkwall  was  the  Palace  Yard.  "  This,"  Mr  Haldane  says,  "  is 
a  square,  formed  by  a  large  and  ancient  edifice  on  the  south,  supposed  to  have  been  the  palace 
of  some  of  the  Norwegian  kings,  and  on  the  north  by  another,  termed  the  Bishop's  Palace. 
On  the  east  is  the  church  of  St.  Magnus,  and  on  the  west  it  is  bounded  by  a  wall."  Haldane's 
first  sermon  was  to  about  eight  hundred  persons.  On  14th  August — first  day  of  the  market — 
he  preached  in  the  morning  to  1200,  and  in  the  evening  to  about  2300.  "  Many  of  the  people 
appeared  much  affected  and  in  tears."  His  largest  audience  here  he  computes  at  2500,  and 
accounts  for  the  crowds  by  telling  us  that  "  the  fair  was  in  a  measure  emptied  every  evening." 

Mr  Haldane's  sermons  were  the  composition  of  a  man  of  education.  He  was  a  pupil  of 
the  famous  Dr  Adams,  of  the  High  School  of  Edinburgh,  and  was  afterwards  an  alumnus  of 
the  University  of  that  city.  His  eloquence  was  a  natural  gift,  and  his  professional  training 
had  accustomed  him  to  lifting  iip  his  voice  in  the  open  air.  At  the  age  of  seventeen,  he  was 
placed  as  midshipman  on  board  the  Duke  of  Montrose,  East  Indiaman,  and  eight  years  later 
he  became  commander  of  the  Melville  Castle.  He  was  reputed  a  first-class  officer  and  a  man 
of  undaunted  resolution.  Thus  he  was  able  to  arouse  the  interest  and  command  the  attention 
of  the  vast  crowd  which  nightly  filled  the  Palace  square.  And  the  effect,  apart  from  its 
religious  asj)ect,  was  a  stirring  up  of  intellectual  activity  throughout  Orkney.  It  lifted  our 
islands  out  of  a  dull  mediievalism  and  put  them  in  touch  with  modern  thought. 

Thoufifh  Mr  Haldane  enlarges  on  the  lifelessness  of  the  Established  Church  in  Orkney  at 
the  time  of  his  visit,  yet  his  notes  prove  that,  wherever  he  went,  he  found  instances  of 
genuine  piety.  In  North  Konaldshay,  "  saw  a  sick  man,  who  appeared  to  be  dying  in  the 
faith."  In  Stronsay,  "  saw  a  sick  man,  who  appeared  to  be  a  Christian."  "Saw  some 
Chri.stian  women."  He  was  barely  polite  to  some  of  the  ministers.  "  Heard  sermon  by  a 
neighbouring  minister  in  the  Established  Church.  He  preached  from  Psal.  xevii.  11.  He  did 
not  mention  the  corruption  of  human  nature."  Mr  Haldane  listened  inside  the  Cathedral  to 
criticise  outside.  "  Took  particular  notice  of  it  in  one  of  our  sermons,  and  showed  its  incon- 
sistency with  the  Scrii>tures."  The  unfortunate  unscriptural  preacher  here  reviewed  was  Mr 
Anderson,  then  of  Evie  and  Kendall,  afterwards  of  Holm. 

The  Scottish  manse  has  always  been  distinguished  for  its  hospitality,  and  this  was  ex- 
hibited in  Rousay  under  circumstances  in  which  the  lady  of  the  house  might  well  have  been 
excused  had  she  refused  to  entertain  strangers.  "  Returned  to  Rousay,  and  lodged  by  invita- 
tion with  Mrs  L (from  whom  we  received  much  civility)  at  the  house  of  Mr  L ^ 

the  minister.  He  was  at  the  point  of  death  when  we  came  there,  and  died  the  same  night." 
Mr  Leslie  had  been  thirty-six  years  "minister  of  the  parish,  and  poor  Mrs  Leslie,  with  genuine 
kindness,  took  in  these  wandering  opposition  preachers  because  there  w^as  no  other  house  in 
the  island  where  they  could  have  comfort. 

They  found  one  good  minister  in  Orkney.     "  Went  to  Hoy,  and  saw  Mr  H ,  the 

minister  lately  settled  here.     He  appeared  to  us  to  be  truly  desirous  of  promoting  the 

spiritual  interests  of  his  people.    The  conduct  of  Mrs  H also  deserves  peculiar  notice 

and  commendation.  On  the  Lord's  day  evening  she  employs  herself  in  teaching  a  number  of 
children  to  read  the  word  of  God  and  to  understand  its  leading  doctrines."  This  worthy 
couple  were  Mr  and  Mrs  Hamilton,  grandi)arents  of  Sir  Robert  Hamilton,  late  Under- 
Secretary  for  Ireland.  Mrs  Hamilton  was  Penelope,  daughter  of  the  Rev.  John  Macaulay,  of 
Cardross,  and  aunt  of  Lord  Macaulay,  the  historian. 

While  in  Kirkwall  Mr  Haldane  "had  the  happiness  to  hear  the  gospel  preached  in  the 


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452  KIRKWALL   IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

Anti-burglier  meeting."  The  Anti-burgher  preacher  was  Mr  Broadfoot,  who  had  been 
ordained  minister  (»f  the  Secession  Church  just  ten  days  before  Mr  Haldane  came  to  Orkney. 
It  would  have  been  very  interesting  now  had  we  been  favoured  with  a  critique  on  this 
sermon,  but  while  apparently  he  enjoyed  it,  he  tells  us  nothing  about  it. 

The  outcome  of  Mr  Haldane's  mission  was  the  immediate  establishment  of  a  congregation 
of  the  Independent  body.  The  first  Congregational  meeting-house  was  somewhere  about  the 
head  of  Laiiig  Street ;  the  second  was  built  by  Mr  George  Rol)ertson  at  the  Bridge,  and  is  now 
used  as  business  premises.  In  1823,  the  congregation  approached  Mr  Laing  for  a  sit«.  The 
members  were  neither  numerous  nor  wealthy,  and  in  the  granting  of  the  feu  these  facts  were 
duly  considered.  The  trustees  bound  themselves  and  their  successors  to  pay  five  shillings  "  at 
the  term  of  Whitsunday,  yearly  and  in  perpetuity."  The  trustees  are  named  in  a  minute 
dated  21st  July  1823  :— 

"  At  a  meeting  of  the  Congregational  Church  in  Kirkwall,  for  the  purpose  of  appointing  Trastees 
for  holding  the  Meeting-house  now  Imilding  for  their  accommodation  in  Mill  Street — present,  Mr 
David  Ramsay  in  the  chair — It  was  moved  and  unanimously  resolved  to  elect  the  following  persons 
Trustees  for  the  aforesaid  purpose,  and  their  names  were  ordere<l  to  be  inserted  in  the  Trust-deed 
accordingly  :— viz.,  Mr  James  Mnirand  Mr  Andrew  Muir,  Merchants,  Greenock  ;  Mr  John  Harcus, 
Minister  of  the  Congregational  Church  in  Greenock  ;  Mr  Greville  Ewin^,  Minister  of  the  Congrega- 
tional Church  in  Glasgow  ;  Mr  John  Aikman,  Minister  of  the  Congregational  Church  in  Edinburgh  ; 
Mr  David  Ramsay  and  Mr  Geo.  Robertson,  Ministers  of  the  Congregational  Church  in  Kirkwall  ; 
VVm.  Crear,  B'lesher  in  Kirkwall  ;  John  (ieorgeson,  Mei*chant  there  ;  Thomas  Downer,  residing  there ; 
Robert  Hourston,  Carpenter  in  Gairsay  ;  and  George  Irvine,  in  Quoyloo  in  Sand  wick — four  of  whom 
shall  be  a  quorum." 

The  building  cost  £515  14s  2jd,  and  when  it  had  served  its  purpose  for  fifty-three  years, 
it  had  come  to  require  very  heavy  repairs.  The  managers,  rightly  judging  that  sympathisers 
might  help  them  to  build  a  new  chapel  who  would  not  give  a  penny  for  repairing  an  old  one, 
sold  the  [)lace  for  £200,  and  proceeded  to  build.  They  opened  their  new  church  in  Palace 
Road,  19th  November  1876,  practically  free  of  debt.  Mr  Pirie,  who  was  then  pastor,  has  been 
followed  by  Messrs  Hodge,  Blair,  Mackenzie,  Chalmers,  and  Gerrard.*  This  congregation, 
duiing  the  hundred  years  of  its  existence,  has  been  much  indebted  to  a  succession  of  earnest 
and  prudent  office-bearers. 

Mr  Ramsay,  the  first  resident  Congregational  minister  in  Kirkwall,  was  a  student  in  the 
Haldanes'  Academy-  the  old  "Tabermicle''  in  Edinburgh.  Before  settling  in  Kirkwall,  he 
hiid  been  stationed  first  at  Kirkintilloch,  then  at  Greenocrk.  He  came  north  in  1807,  and  for 
forty-six  years  he  gave  his  services  to  the  Chur(rh  simply  for  his  love  of  the  cause.  Like  the 
grand  old  Tentmaker,  he  maintained  himself  by  his  business,  while  he  found  ample  time  to 
devote  to  the  requirements  of  his  flock.  The  industry  with  which  his  name  is  associated  was 
the  straw-plait  manufacture,  introduced  into  Orkney  in  the  beginning  ot  the  century.  Mr 
Ramsay's  manse  was  that  house  in  Queen  Street  now  owned  and  occupied  by  George  Sinclair, 
Esq.,  M.l). 

In  1815,  Mr  George  Robertson,  a  native  of  Tankerness,  who  also  had  been  one  of  the 
Haldane  students,  gave  up  his  work  at  Inverkip,  near  Greenock,  to  join  Mr  Ramsay  in 
Kirkwall.  The  necessity  for  a  colleague  did  not  arise  from  the  great  increase  in  the  Kirkwall 
congregation,  but  from  the  difficulty  of  keeping  in  touch  with  those  who  had  joined  the 
denomination  in  the  outlying  parishes  and  islands.  In  1823,  Mr  Robertson  succeeded  in 
getting  churches  built  in  Harray  and  Rendall.  Ten  years  later,  in  rather  indifferent  health, 
he  went  to  Thurso,  and,  after  eleven  years,  retired  to  live  with  his  son,  a  merchant  in 
Kirkwall. 

•  From  information  kindly  furnished  by  Mr  Gibson,  clothier. 


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RULE   OF   THE  CHURCH.  453 

When  the  congregation  left  their  old  chapel  in  Mill  Street,  it  waa  acquired  by  the  Good 
Templars,  who  have  expended  much  money  in  enlarging  and  improving  their  hall.  Under  the 
present  proprietors,  the  Temperance  Hall  has  been  a  boon  to  the  town.  For  many  years  it 
was  the  only  place  in  Kirkwall  available  for  secular  meetings,  and  even  now,  when  our  burgh 
has  broken  out  into  an  eruption  of  halls  of  various  kinds,  the  old  Mill  Street  Chapel  is  still 
the  favourite  resort  for  all  kinds  of  popular  gatherings. 

When,  in  1820,  Mr  Paterson  was  ordained  minister  of  the  Secession  Church  of  Kirkwall, 
those  members  of  the  congregation  who  had  been  opposed  to  his  settlement,  though  they  are 
represented  in  the  Doctor^s  biography  as  "  little  more  than  half-a-dozen,"  were  really  so 
numerous  that  they  were  able  to  start  a  meeting-house  of  their  own.  The  leaders  of  this 
movement  were  "  Magnus  Anderson,  late  merchant  in  Kirkwall,  presently  residing  in  Edin- 
burgh ;  Alexander  Walls,  wright  in  Kirkwall  ;  John  Foubister,  watchmaker  there  ;  Thomas 
Cursater,  grieve  at  Warbister  ;  Henry  Corrigill,  merchant  in  Kirkwall ;  John  Thomson, 
blacksmith  there  ;  George  Peace,  shoemaker  there  ;  John  Taylor,  merchant  there  ;  Thomas 
Wards,  grieve  at  Pabdale  ;  William  Smith,  tailor  in  Kirkwall ;  Thomas  Heddle,  wright  there  ; 
and  James  Anderson,  bookbinder  there."  They  attached  themselves  to  the  communion  of 
Original  Seceders,  but  were  known  in  Kirkwall  as  the  Protestors.  With  characteristic 
catholicity,  Mr  Laing  granted  them  a  feu  consisting  of  "All  and  Whole  a  plot  of  ground, 
measuring  eighty  feet  square,  being  a  part  of  the  lands  of  Pabdale  lying  to  the  southward  of 
and  distant  from  the  United  Secession  Church  meeting-house  about  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
two  feet."    The  U.P.  Manse  now  occupies  the  site. 

During  its  short  life  of  twenty-three  years,  this  church  held  an  Ishmaelitish  ])osition  in 
Kirkwall.  The  Protestors  could  not  go  back  to  the  National  Zion,  they  would  not  join  the 
Congregational  body,  and  they  regarded  with  bitter  hostility  the  Seceders  from  whom  they 
had  seceded.  This  last  fact  gives  a  kind  of  consistency  to  some  of  their  actions.  In  183.5,  the 
congregation  in  St.  Magnus  petitioned  Government  for  additional  endowments,  a  movement 
strenuously  opposed  by  the  Seceders.  This  opposition  decided  the  action  of  the  Protestors, 
and  Mr  Paterson  wrote  to  his  brother  : — *'  The  protesting  minister  has  been  giving  lectures  in 
defence  of  Establishments." 

Shortly  aftervvanls  Mr  Paterson  preached  a  sermon,  which  was  published  and  widely 
circulated,  uiitler  the  title,  "  Divinely  Appointed  Mode  of  Supporting  the  Christian  Ministry." 
"The  Rev.  El»eiiezer  Ritchie,  i)rotesting  minister,  wrote  a  review  of  this  sermon  in  a  spirit  of 
merciless  severity,  which  was  zealously  distributed.  This  roused  the  indignation  of  the 
writer  of  the  sermon,  and,  under  the  name  of  'Anti-Compulsory,'  he  addressed  a  letter,  in  the 
form  of  a  pamphlet,  to  the  reviewer  in  such  a  style  of  withering  sarcasm  that  we  hear  no  more 
of  him  in  this  connection."  From  this  it  would  appear  that  the  Protestor  had  very  nuich  the 
worst  of  it  in  the  wordy  warfare  ;  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  Rev.  Ebenezer  Ritchie 
has  not  fonnd  a  biographer,  or  possibly  another  side  of  the  story  might  have  been  presented. 
One  thing  certain  is  that  the  discussion  stirred  up  much  bad  blood  in  Kirkwall,  and  resulted  in 
no  good  to  anybody. 

In  1843,  with  grim  satisfaction,  the  Protestors  saw  the  Established  Church  in  the  throes 
and  agonies  of  a  new  secession,  and  they  delivered  themselves  from  their  own  anomalous 
position  by  joining  the  Disruption  party. 

The  Disruption  movement  may  be  said  to  have  begun  in  Kirkwall  in  1822  as  a  protest 
against  the  discomforts  of  St.  Magnus  as  a  pjirish  church.  Three  of  the  members— Sheriff 
Peterkin,  Robert  Pringle,  supervisor,  and  David  Paterson,  master  of  the  Grammar  School — 
took  action  for  themselves  and  those  who  adhered  to  them  : — 


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454  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

**  Since  the  Petition  was  put  into  tlie  Clerk's  hands,  the  Petitioners  have  ascertained  some  facts 
which  they  beg  leave  to  submit  to  the  Presbytery  before  going  to  proof,  as  affording  more  precise  and 
conclusive  grounds  for  the  prayer  of  their  Petition  being  granted  than  the  Petition  itself  contains. 

**  \.  They  have  ascertained  that  the  whole  of  the  ground  area  in  St.  Magnus  church  which  is 
occupied  as  a  place  of  worship  is  considerably  under  the  level  of  the  ground.  At  the  south  side,  the 
elevation  of  the  earth  and  burying  ground  close  on  the  outside  of  the  wall,  above  the  level  of  the 
floor  within,  varies  from  about  eleven  feet  to  four ;  and  at  the  east  end  it  is  two  feet  ;  so  that  all 
persons  sitting  in  that  part  of  the  Church  are  literally  seated  in  a  vault  under  ground  during  the 
whole  time  they  attend  public  worship.  The  rain  water  enters  the  roof,  and  at  the  top  of  the  M'alls 
from  the  bartizans,  notwithstanding  every  endeavour  to  prevent  it,  so  that  even  the  pulpit  cannot  be 
kept  free  from  droppings  ;  and  all  the  Cement  of  the  walls  is  decomposed  by  the  long  continued 
action  of  ^ater  upon  it,  so  as  to  be  reduced  to  mere  rubbish  or  dust.  From  the  nature  of  the 
ground  around  the  Cathedral — from  the  thickness  of  and  constant  moisture  in  the  walls — from  the 
massiness  of  the  pillars  and  smallness  of  the  windows,  which  admit  little  air  and  no  sunshine  into  the 
body  of  the  Church — it  is  in  fact  as  tlanip,  cold,  and  unwholesome  as  any  cellar  or  icehouse,  and  is 
altogether  unfit  to  be  occupied  as  a  place  of  worship.  This  the  Petitioners  undertake  to  prove  as  the 
main  fact  on  which  their  application  rests. 

*'  2dly.  They  have  ascertained  from  the  return  made  by  the  Sheriff  Court  of  the  County  to 
Parliament  in  18*21,  tliat  the  total  population  of  Kirkwall  is  221*2  souls,  of  whom  there  are  553  under 
twelve  years  of  age,  leaving  above  that  age  1659.  The  total  population  of  St.  011a  is  1034,  of  whom 
there  are  289  under  twelve  years  of  age,  leaving  above  that  age  745,  making  a  total  of  persons  above 
twelve  years  of  age  of  2404  souls,  of  which  number  two-thirds  are  by  Law  entitled  to  have  accommo- 
dation in  their  Parish  church — inde  1602.  But  it  is  ascertained  by  measurement  of  the  Seating  in  the 
Cathedral  that  there  is  room  only  for  071,  so  that  there  are  actually  931  pereons  who  cannot  possibly 
get  accommodation  in  the  only  place  of  public  worship  connected  with  the  establishment  in  Kirkwall 
or  St.  OUa. 

"  3dly.  There  are  upwards  of  550  communicants,  many  of  whom  do  not  attend  the  established 
church  except  at  the  Sacrament,  and  are  obliged  to  frequent  sectarian  meeting  houses,  either  for 
want  of  seats  altogether,  or  from  regard  to  their  health. 

'*  4thly.  There  are  about  a  dozen  of  the  largest  and  most  commodious  seats  in  the  main  area  of 
the  Church  claimed  exclusively  by  eight  or  nine  individuals,  some  of  whom  never  enter  the  church 
door,  and  many  of  whose  seats  stand  constantly  almost  or  altogether  empty  ;  and  an  entire  gallery  is 
set  apart  for  the  use  of  the  magistrates  of  the  Burgh,  only  one  or  two  of  whom  are  ever  to  be  seen  in 
it  ;  and  all  this  monopoly,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  otiier  members  of  the  Congregation,  is  enjoyed 
without  any  legal  title  that  the  Petitioners  can  discover,  and  without  payment,  while  others 
are  required  to  pay  rents  at  various  rates  for  inferior  and  remote  seats  in  holes  and  corners  of  the 
Cathedral.     They  will  prove 

•'5thly.  That  at  the  last  letting  of  the  seats  several  respectable  heads  of  families  applied  for 
seats  in  the  Church  and  could  not  be  supplied  ;  and  there  are  above  twenty  families,  and  individuals, 
including  Heritors  of  the  Parish,  who  have  no  seats  in  the  Church,  and  are  beholden  t^j  their  friends 
for  that  accommodation. 

"  The  Petitioners  therefore  apprehend  that  it  becomes  imperative  on  the  Presbytery  to  provide  a 
remedy  for  these  evils,  which  amount  to  a  total  exclusion  of  nearly  the  whole  Parishioners  from  their 
Parish  Church.  They  have  no  wi^h,  however,  to  subject  the  persons  legally  liable  to  any  unnecessary 
expence.  They  believe  that  it  is  utterly  impossible  by  any  arrangement  to  render  the  present  place 
of  worsiiip  sufticient  to  contain  the  number  entitled  to  accommodation  or  to  rentier  it  safe  and  whole- 
some ;  but  if,  after  a  proper  inquiry  and  proof,  this  should  be  found  practicable,  the  Petitionei*8  ask 
nothing  more  than  this,  and  legal  distribution  of  the  seats  among  those  who  shall  then  be  entitled  to 
them."* 

All  that  came  of  this,  however,  was  a  cleansing  processa.  But,  from  various  causes,  there 
was  a  general  feeling  of  unrest  in  the  congregation,  the  kind  of  feeling  that  often  forebodes  a 
revolution.  The  difficulty  of  getting  seats  when  new  members  joined  the  church  was  a  source 
of  dissatisfaction.  The  Laing  family  had  long  occupied  the  Grahams*  Loft,  and  when  they 
left  Kirkwall,  Sheriff  Nicolson,  wlio  had  bought  Malcolm  Laing's  town  house,  got  this  loft 
from  the  Session  for  the  payment  of  one  guinea  per  annum.  When  Sheriff  Shi  reft' came  here, 
he  sat  for  three  years  wherever  he  might,  having  been  unable  during  that  time  to  secure  a 
pew.  When  Mr  Nicolson  left  the  Bishop's  Gallery,  Mr  Sliireff  got  it  for  the  annual  guinea. 
But,  in  1829,  this  gentleman  being  in  Edinburgh,  Mr  Graham,  Crown  Chamberlain,  claimed  it 

*  S.  R.,6thFeby.  1823. 


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RULE  OF  THE  CHURCH,  455 

for  His  Majesty's  Woods  aud  Forests,  got  it,  and  occupied  it.  On  Mr  Sbireff's  return,  he  was 
naturally  indignant,  and  a  more  or  less  heated  correspondence  arose,  involving  the  claimants, 
the  ministers,  and  the  Kirk  Session.  Then  Mr  Sutherland  Graeme  put  forward  his  hereditary 
right  to  his  ancestors'  seat,  and  the  troublesome  question  worried  the  congregation  for  five 
years. 

Meanwhile  an  extra-mural  strife  had  been  raging.  In  1828  the  Crown  claimed  the  right 
of  patronage.  This  was  resisted  by  the  Magistrates,  who  got  a  decision  in  their  favour  from 
the  House  of  Lords,  1830.  Already,  in  1832,  this  seems  to  have  been  forgotten  by  Mr 
Graham,  Crown  Chamberlain,  and  an  extract  from  a  letter  sent  to  that  gentleman  by  John 
Mitchell,  Town  Clerk,  shows  the  exact  position  taken  up  by  the  Burgh  with  regard  to  the 
Cathedral  :— 

"  Kirkwall,  6th  December  1832. 

*'  Dear  Sir,  —I  am  just  now  favoured  with  your  letter  of  yesterday,  the  contents  of  which  surprise 
me  a  good  deal. 

"  Whether  St.  Magnus  Church  is  to  >)e  held  as  a  parish  Church  or  not,  or  whether  the  long  pos- 
session of  it  as  such  is  to  regulate  the  point,  is  not  for  me  to  give  an  opinion  upon,  but,  as  the  Church, 
together  with  the  Patronage,  are  specially  contained  Iti  the  Town's  Charter  aud  subsequent  Titles,  I 
never  entertained  a  doubt  that  the  right  was  completely  vested  in  the  Magistrates. 

**  Some  entertained  an  opposite  opinion,  aud  the  consequence  was  an  unfortunate  challenge  at  the 
instance  of  the  Crown  in  order  to  divest  the  Magistrates  of  the  right  of  Patronage,  and  the  result  was 
that  their  right  was  triumphantly  established,  but  at  such  an  expcnce  as  almost  beggared  the  Burgh." 

The  Burgh  had  established  the  riglit  of  patronage,  but  was  now  in  no  mood  to  exercise  it. 
At  a  full  meeting  of  Council,  held  18th  January  1831,  Bailie  Speiice  in  the  chair,  the  business 
was  the  appointment  of  a  minister  to  the  Second  Charge.  There  were  present  four  Bailies, 
Dean-of-Guild,  Trejvsurer,  eleven  Councillors,  and  four  Deacons.  When  the  meeting  was 
constituted,  "  there  was  given  in  and  read  a  petition  from  a  great  number  of  the  members  of 
St.  Magnus  Church,  and  othera  attending  Divine  worship  there,  praying  the  Council  to 
appoint  such  a  successor  to  the  late  Mr  Dunn  as  may  be  agreeable  to  and  recommended  by 
the  Congregation."  Bailie  Spence  moved  that  the  congregation  should  be  left  to  their  own 
free  and  ilelil>erate  choice  to  recommend  any  successor  agreeable  to  themselves.  Bailie  Scott 
stated  that,  being  averse  to  patronage  in  every  shape  and  however  modified,  he  begged  leave 
to  decline  voting  on  the  present  motion  and  every  other  that  may  be  made  in  the  Council 
relative  to  the  subject.  Mr  Tait  and  Mr  Borwick  stated  that,  entertaining  the  same  opinions 
as  those  expressed  by  Mr  Scott,  they  also  declined  voting.  Mr  Baikie,  "  by  way  of  an  amend- 
ment Ui  Mr  Spence's  motion,  moved  that  a  day  should  now  be  named  for  the  electing  of  a 
Minister  to  the  second  charge  of  the  Burgh."  "  The  vote  being  put,  six  members  voted  for  Mr 
Spence's  motitm  and  six  for  Mr  Baikie's  motion,  and  the  other  members  present  declined 
voting.  The  votes  being  therefore  et^ual,  Bailie  Spence  gave  his  casting  vote  in  favour  of  his 
own  motion,  which  is  therefore  carried."  **  Mr  Henderson  stated  that  his  reason  for  declining 
to  vote  was  that  he  entertained  the  .same  sentiments  with  regard  to  patronage  as  those  ex- 
pressed by  Mr  Scott ;  and  the  other  members  of  the  Secession  Church  present  stated  that 
they  declined  voting  on  the  same  principles."  This  vote  is  interesting  as  showing  that,  as  far 
back  as  miJl,  in  a  Council  meeting  of  twenty-one  members,  nine  were  Seceders. 

In  compliance  with  the  wish  of  the  congregation,  the  Rev.  Peter  Petrie  was  appointed. 
He  came  from  a  Chapel-of-Ease  in  Leith,  and  very  soon  after  his  settlement  in  Kirkwall  he 
began  to  show  that  he  preferred  the  comparative  independence  of  such  a  position  to  the 
friction  of  a  collegiate  charge.  Mr  l*etrie  found  that  the  Cathedral  as  a  parish  church  was 
inconvenient,  uncomfortable,  and  unsuitable  to  the  wants  of  so  large  a  congregation.  In  1834 
he  had  so  many  adherents  as  to  justify  his  going  to  the  Presbytery.    On  the  other  hand,  the 


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456  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

feelings,  especially  of  the  older  communicants,  were  outraged  to  hear  the  venerable  tH. 
Magnus  spoken  of  with  disrespect.    Those  who  opposed  Mr  Petrie's  scheme  protested  : — 

**  To  the  very  Revd.  the  Presbytery  of  Kirkwall,  the  Petition  and  Memorial  of  the  undersigned 
Heritors  of  the  Parish  of  St.  Ola  and  Kirkwall, 

"  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  it  is  publicly  announced  from  the  Pulpit  of  mid  Pariftk  that  a 
Petition  is  to  be  presented  to  the  Revd.  Presbytery  from  the  Ministers  and  certain  of  the  Parishioners, 
craving  the  Presbytery  to  sanction  the  abandonment  of  the  Cathedral  of  8t.  Magnus  as  the  Parish 
Churchy  nnd  to  appoint  a  place  of  worship  whicli  it  is  proposed  to  erect  by  subscription,  or  shares 
bearing  interest  to  the  shareholders,  to  be  the  Parish  Church  in  lieu  of  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus. 

*' The  undersigned  Heritors  beg  leave  respectfully  to  submit  to  the  Presbytery  the  folTowijig 
considerations,  which  appear  to  them  of  great  weight  and  importance. 

"There  are  three  parties  who  have  certain  rights  in,  and  are  under  certain  legal  obligations  to, 
the  Buildings  called  Parinh  Churche-H — these  parties  are  the  Presbytery  of  the  bounds,  the  Heritore  of 
the  Parish,  and  the  Parishioners. 

"  The  Presbytery  of  the  bounds  has  an  undoubted  right  to  a  control  over  the  Doctrine  Preached 
in  the  Parish  Church,  and  to  call  upon  tlie  Heritors  for  a  building  in  which  they  can  exercise  this 
control.  Over  a  church  not  built  by  the  Heritors  under  the  standmg  law  of  the  land,  but  built  by 
and  belonging  to  a  body  of  shareholders  or  subscribers,  it  is  humbly  conceived  that  it  can  only  be  by 
sufferance  of  the  Committee  of  the  shareholders  for  the  time  being  that  the  Presbytery  can  exercise 
any  such  control.  The  proprietors  may,  at  pleasure,  shut  the  doors  of  such  a  Parish  Kirk  in  the  face 
of  the  Presbytery. 

*'  The  Heritors  of  a  Parish  are  other  parties  having  certain  civil  liabilities  and  rights  in  a  Parish 
Church. 

'*  They  are  under  the  liability  to  repair  the  building  and  to  be  assessed  according  to  their  valued 
rents  towards  the  expense  of  repairing  or  rebuilding. 

"  In  consequence  of  the  liabilities  of  Heritors  to  the  Parish  Church,  they  are  entitled  to  a  process 
before  the  Sheriff  to  divide  the  area  of  the  Church  among  them,  and  to  let  the  seats  of  their  respective 
areas.  The  Revd.  Presbytery  cannot  deprive  the  Heritors  of  tliis  legal  right  in  a  building  which  the 
Presbytery  constitutes  into  a  Parish  Church." 

After  showing  the  rights  of  the  parishinnerB,  the  difficulty  of  transferring  to  a  share-held 
church  the  proclamation  of  banns  (»f  marriage  from  tlie  pulpit,  and  the  adverrising  of  official 
matter,  imperial  or  civic,  at  the  kirk  door,  the  pt'tition  proceetls  on  general  grounds  :  — 

"There  is  another  consideration  Mhich  is  warmly  pressed  upon  the  notice  of  the  Kevd.  Presbj'- 
tery.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Magnus  has  stood  nearly  seven  hundred  years.  It  is  within  two  and  a-half 
centuries  of  being  as  old  as  CMiriAtianity  itself  in  thette  inlands.  It  is  a  wonderful  monument  of  the 
piety,  the  zeal  for  Christianity,  and  of  the  architectural  science  of  the  inhabitants  of  Orkney  in  thoee 
early  times.  It  is  a  monument  which  does  not  belong  to  the  Heritors,  or  Inhabitants,  or  Presbytery, 
or  to  the  County  of  Orkney.  It  belongs  to  Scotland.  It  belongs  to  Europe.  It  belongs  to 
Christianity,  as  one  of  its  earliest  and,  considering  the  Ccmnty  in  which  it  stands,  as  one  of  its  most 
glorious  monuments.  The  Revd.  Presbytery  are  aware  that  this  monument  of  the  effect  over  the 
human  mind,  even  in  these  remote  islands,  of  the  first  preaching  of  Christianity,  is  in  a  very  entire 
state,  in  no  need  of  repairs  of  roof  or  walls.  It  need  not  l>e  pointed  out  to  the  Kevd.  Presbyt<.'ry  that 
if  it  is  deserted  and  abandoned  as  a  place  of  worship,  it  will  fall  into  decay,  as,  to  the  lasting  disgrace 
of  Scotland,  has  been  the  fate  of  almost  all  the  ancient  edifices  connected  with  religion  in  the  kingdom. 

'*  It  is  humbly  submitted  to  the  consideration  of  the  Kevd.  Presbytery,  That  if  the  Cathedral  of 
St.  Magnus  is  too  small  or  too  damp  for  the  present  gt  iteration  of  Christian  people  in  the  Parish  of  8t. 
Ola,  the  adrlition  of  a  share-held  church  such  as  that  proposed  as  a  kind  of  chapel  or  supplementary 
church  to  St.  Magnus  is  the  proper  remedy.  Those  who  cannot  find  accommodation  good  enough  in 
St.  Magnus  would  find  seat-room  in  this  Kirk,  and  the  Parish  Church  of  St.  Magnus  would  remain 
for  those  who  prefer  it,  and  who  would  deem  it  a  sacrilege  to  be  accessory  to  the  ailapidation  of  such 
a  structure,  which  Scotland,  with  all  its  progress  in  the  useful  and  fine  arts,  could  not  at  the  present 
day  rebuihl. 

*'  The  undersigned  Petitioners,  so  far  from  opposing  the  erection  of  a  new  chapel  or  additional 
place  of  worship,  would  willingly  promote  it  ;  but  they  most  respectfully  and  decidedly  protest 
against  a  share-held  or  subscription  building  being  declared  the  Parish  Church  in  lieu  of  St.  Maguus 
by  a  decreet  of  Presbytery. 

(Signed)        Samuel  Laing.  W'm.  Traill. 

JaMRS    BaIKIE.  Pat.    FOTilERINGnAME. 

J  NO.  Baikie.  Wm.  Tkaill  of  Wood  wick." 

Thos.  Pollexfek. 


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RULE  OF  THE   CHURCH.  45T 

On  the  5tli  day  of  June,  1834,  **  The  Commission  of  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Church 
of  Scothvnd  took  up  the  Reference  from  the  Presbytery  of  Kirkwall  respecting  the  building  of 
a  subscription  church  in  that  parish.  The  Commission  sustained  the  Reference,  and  recom- 
mended the  Presbytery  of  Kirkwall  to  sanction,  if  they  should  see  cause,  the  erection  of  an 
additional  place  of  worship  by  private  contribution  in  the  said  Parish,  and  to  authorise  the 
perfornuiuce  of  divine  Ordinances  therein." 

For  some  years  longer  this  schism  kept  the  Cathedral  in  a  ferment,  till  in  1841,  at  a  cost 
of  £1400,  the  East  Church  was  built,  with  sittings  for  one  thousand  people.  Mr  Petrie  and 
his  adherents  hived  off  to  the  Chapel -of -Ease,  and  thus  there  came  to  be  virtually  two* 
congregations  of  the  Established  Church  in  Kirkwall.  This  *'  stone  and  lime  disruption  "  waa 
a  great  grief  to  Mr  Logie,  minister  of  the  first  charge,  who  held  to  his  pulpit  in  the  Cathedral. 
The  bulk  of  the  congregation  stuck  to  their  old  minister  and  their  old  church,  and  while 
perhaps  Judah  did  not  vex  Ephraim  in  his  new  quarters,  and  Ephraim  did  not  envy  Judah,. 
sitting  in  the  damp,  dark  pews  of  St.  Magnus,  the  two  had  no  love  for  each  other. 

But  very  soon  another  change  came,  when,  in  1843,  Mr  Petrie  and  practically  all  hia 
following  joined  the  Disruption  party.  One  of  the  first  acts  of  the  new  Free  Church  was  to- 
proceed  to  an  election  of  elders  and  deacons.  This  took  place  in  October  1843,  when  the 
Session  and  Deacon's  Court  stood  thus  :— Rev.  Peter  Petrie,  minister  ;  Dr  Bremner,  .Messrs 
Stephen  Muir,  George  Petrie,  and  Robert  Tulloch,  elders  ;  James  Groundwater,  James  Crear^ 
John  Tait,  John  Wilson,  and  Robert  Sinclair,  deacons.* 

It  was  perhaps  natural  that  the  Free  Church  congregation  should  claim  right  of 
proprietorship  in  the  building  which  they  had  occupied  for  a  couple  of  years  before  the 
Disruption,  but  in  1840  they  had  not  foreseen  the  ecclesiastical  revolution  of  1843.  The  East 
Kirk  had  been  built  ''  as  an  additional  place  of  worship  in  inalienable  connection  with  the 
Church  of  Scotland,  and  aided  by  a  large  grant  from  the  Church  Extension  Committee." 

After  holding  the  meeting-house  for  several  years,  in  the  face  of  repeated  notices  to  quit, 
tiiey  were  at  length  ousted,  and  this  eviction,  right  enough  from  a  business  point  of  view, 
added  to  the  rancour  already  bitter  between  the  two  congregations.  Being  thus  compelled  ta 
build,  the  Session  and  Deacons'  Court  applied  to  Mr  Laing  for  a  site,  and  obtained  a  very 
suitable  feu.  While  their  new  church  was  in  process  of  erection  the  Protestors  came  to  the 
aid  of  the  homeless  congregation,  offering  them  their  meeting-house  for  the  half  of  each 
Sunday  and  for  any  day  in  the  week  when  they  might  require  it.  This  kindly  accommodation 
was  gratefully  accepted,  and  when  the  new  building  in  King  Street  was  completed  the  two- 
congregations  amalgamated,  left  the  old  meeting-house,  and  established  themselves  in  their 
new  quarters.  This  amalgamation  was  the  forerunner  of  the  union  which  subsequently  took 
place  between  the  Original  Seceders  and  their  Free  Church  brethren. 

Meanwhile,  in  1844,  Mr  Petrie  had  accepted  a  call  to  Govan,  and  it  may  be  stated  that  he 
died  there,  1850,  in  the  fifty-second  year  of  his  age. 

The  first  pastor  of  the  new  congregation  was  Mr  William  Sinclair,  a  native  of  Edinburgh. 
He  was  a  veiy  earnest  minister,  but  his  physical  strength  became  insufficient  for  the  work^ 
and  Mr  James  Stuart  was  appointed  colleague  and  successor.  Mr  Stuart  was  a  singularly 
amiable  man,  and  his  sudden  death  was  much  felt  in  Kirkwall  by  members  of  all 
denominations. 

In  1893,  by  way  of  celebrating  the  jubilee  of  the  Disruption,  and  at  the  same  time  of 
marking  their  appreciation  of  the  labours  of  the  incumbent,t  the  Session  and  congregation 
resolved  to  erect  a  more  commodious  place  of  worship,  and  this,  to  their  credit  be  it  said,  they 

*  For  information,  indebted  to  the  Rev.  Alexander  Isdale.        t  Mr  Isdale. 

3n 


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458  KIRKWALL    IN   THE   ORKNEYS. 

opened  pnictically  free  of  delit.  The  Imndsoine  pulpit  came  from  the  old  Free  Tolb(K)th  in 
Edinburgh,  and  wiis  a  gift  from  Mr  Donaldson,  an  office-bearer  of  that  church. 

The  house  occupied  as  the  Free  Church  Manse  was  built  by  Mr  Sinclair,  writer,  and 
Town  Clerk  of  Kirkwall.  For  a  country  residence  Mr  Sinclair  built  the  house  of  Breck  in 
Rendall.  He  married  a  daughtt-r  of  Lord  Duttus  ;  but  his  family  of  handsouie  sons  and 
beautiful  daughters  all  died  unmarried. 

There  were  now  two  empty  and  therefore  useless  meeting  houses  in  Kirkwall— the  East 
Church,  in  the  triangular  piece  of  ground  east  of  the  Cathedral ;  and  the  Protesti»rs\  where 
the  U.R  Manse  now  stands.  The  former  of  these  wsis  sold  for  £100  to  the  late 
Mr  James  Walls.  The  materials,  which  were  comparatively  new  and  fresh,  were  employed 
by  him  in  the  constructitm  of  that  range  of  houses  at  the  Ayre,  now  belonging  to  Mr  .Meil, 
fish  salesman,  which,  with  a  gable  to  the  roadway,  stretches  back  into  the  "  Peerie  Sea." 
The  principal  doorway,  rebuilt  by  Mr  Walls,  is  still  to  be  seen  as  it  was.  The  pulpit  was 
presented  to  the  United  Presbyterian  congregation  of  Eday,  then  engaged  in  building  a  new 
church. 

When  the  Protestors  joined  the  Disruption  party  they  were  in  debt  to  the  amount  of  £78. 
To  clear  this  off  they  proposed  to  sell  their  old  meeting-house,  now  standing  without  a  whole 
pane  of  glass  and  with  tons  of  road  metal  in  its  pews.  A  spirited  young  contractor,*  one  of 
their  own  body,  offered  the  am<mnt  of  the  debt,  avsh  down,  if  they  would  decide  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  The  offer  was  accepted,  and  no  sooner  was  the  bargain  completed  than  the  Free 
Church  p.irty  in  Sanday,  who  were  then  building,  desired  to  have  the  roof,  possibly  expecting 
to  get  it  for  an  old  song.  The  negotiator  was  surprised,  and  somewhat  indignant,  when  he 
was  told  that  he  coiM  have  it  where  it  was  for  £6H,  or  placed  in  good  order  on  Kirkwall  pier 
for  £78.  After  some  fuming  the  roof  was  bought,  but  its  removal  was  given  to  another 
person,  who  offered  to  do  the  work  for  £8,  and  who  gave  no  guarantee.  In  carrying  out  his 
contract  this  num  broke  a  beam,  which  the  purchasers  had  to  replace  from  Leith  at  a 
considerable  cost  in  material,  workmanship,  and  freight.  The  contractor  still  lives,  and 
enjoys  a  (piiet  smile  over  this  expensive  saving  of  two  pounds. 

The  history  of  the  persecutions  of  the  episcopalian  dissenters  in  Orkney  has  been  very 
fully  told  by  the  present  incumbent  of  St.  Olafs.  He  shows  that,  in  the  olden  time,  dissent 
meant  danger.  A  minister  holding  an  episcopal  conventicle  was  liable  to  be  sent  to  the 
American  plantations  for  life — a  life  of  slavery.  If  by  any  chance  he  returned  he  became 
liable  to  imprisonment  for  life.  A  hearer,  for  the  first  offence,  was  fined  five  pounds,  or 
in  default  was  sent  to  prison  for  six  mcmths,  and  subsequent  convictions  meant  two  years' 
imprisonment.  "  Many  expedients  were  adopted  to  avoid  penal  statutes,  which  continued  in 
force  for  many  long  years."  "  When  the  Churchmen  of  Kirkwall  met  under  the  pastoral  care 
of  the  Rev.  James  Winchester!  in  what  remained  of  St.  Olafs  pre- reformat  ion  church  in  the 
Poor  House  Clo."«e,  the  expedient  adopted,  as  related  to  the  writer  by  an  old  lady  who  remem- 
bers hearing  it  told  in  her  youth,  was  to  have  the  church  divided  into  two  flats,  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  upper  a  round  hole  was  out  in  the  floor,  whence  the  congregation  assembled  in 
the  various  rooms  might  hear  service.  Under  such  circumstances  only  those  who  had  a  real 
belief  in  the  divine  origin  of  episcopacy  would  continue  firm  in  the  profession  of  their  faith."  J 

But,  in  spite  of  "real  belief,"  episcopacy,  as  represented  by  public  worship,  had  been 
defunct  in  Orkney  for  a  century  and  a  half,  when,  in  1871,  Dr  Fleming  began  to  hold  services 
in  the  Drill  Hall,  and  that  date  marks  its  re-introduction  into  Kirkwall.  In  1874  the  foun- 
dation stone  of  St.  Olafs  Church  was  laid  by  General  Burroughs,  and,  in  1875,  the  present 

*  Mr  Peter  Shearer.         f  Mr  Winchester  waa  ordained  in  1751. 
t  Episcopal  Church  in  Orkney,  Craven,  p.  108. 


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RULE   OF  THE   CHURCH.  45& 

incumbent,  the  Rev.  J.  B.  Craven,  was  appointed  to  the  charge.  This  gentleman  has  devoted 
his  leisure  to  expiscating  and  recording  the  trials  and  the  triumphs  of  episcopacy  in  Orkney, 
and  to  his  facile  pen  we  are  indebted  for  much  valuable  history,  the  outcome  of  earnest  and 
laborious  research. 

In  Victoria  Street,  on  a  site  purchased  in  1879,  is  the  meeting-ht)use  known  as  the  Gospel 
Hall.  The  religious  body  to  which  it  belongs  sprang  into  existence  in  the  early  "  thirties  "  of 
the  present  century.  The  movement  originated  in  a  reaction  against  the  High  Church 
practices  of  the  Church  of  England.  This  reaction  showed  itself  almost  simultaneously  in 
many  places  in  England  and  Ireland. 

In  its  early  days  it  was  much  indebted  to  the  labours  and  organising  powers  of  Mr  Darby. 
This  gentleman,  a  member  of  the  Irish  bar  in  large  practice,  moved  by  strong  religious  con- 
victions, became  an  episcopal  clergyman.  Fie  afterwards  travelled  as  an  evangelist,  adhering 
to  no  church.  From  England  he  went  to  the  Continent,  where,  especially  among  the 
Protestants  of  France  and  Switzerland,  he  was  very  successful,  preaching  as  fluently  in  French 
and  German  as  he  did  in  English.  R.  L.  Stevenson  records  that  he  came  upon  several 
communities  of  these  protestants  in  the  valleys  of  the  Cevennes,  and  that  they  took  their  local 
name,  Derbists,  from  this  evangelist.  One  of  the  most  famous  of  their  later  preachers  is  Mr 
Guinness,  who,  in  1860,  was  baptised  by  another  brother.  Lord  Congleton.  These  brethren 
recognise  no  official  priesthood,  but  insist  on  the  equal  rights  of  every  male  adherent  to  lift  up 
his  voice  in  their  meetings.  In  the  form  of  their  public  worship,  their  idea  is  to  return  as  far 
as  possible  to  the  simplicity  of  the  original  Christian  Church. 

The  Gospel  Hall,  erected  from  plans  prepared  by  T.  S.  Peace,  Esq.,  architect,  is  seated 
for  about  150  persons,  and  was  opened  cm  Sunday,  14th  November  1880.  The  original 
trustees  were  Rice  S.  Hopkins,  Birkenhead,  now  Melbourne  ;  J.  A.  Boswell,  Edinburgh  ; 
Edward  Hack,  Norwich  ;  Wm.  Sloan,  Lerwick  ;  John  Hewison,  Westray  ;  George  Flett, 
Harray  ;  and  Wm.  Reid,  Kirkwall.* 

Another  religious  body,  under  .some  semblance  of  military  discipline,  the  Salvation  Army^ 
has  recently  invaded  Kirkwall.  The  value  of  this  organisation  is  best  seen  in  the  slums 
of  great  cities,  which  it  fearlessly  penetrates,  thus  reaching  the  non-church-going  and  the 
habitual  criminal  classes  of  the  community.  Among  them  women  are  allowed  free  scope  as 
preachers. 

Thus,  all  sectarian  tastes,  from  the  most  conservative  to  the  most  radical,  are  liberally 
catered  for  in  modern  Kirkwall. 

Withcmt  doubt  there  is  a  great  waste  of  public  money  in  the  multiplication  of  churches 
and  manses  and  stipends  by  denominations,  the  mass  of  whose  adherents  cannot  tell  the  dif- 
ference in  doctrine  or  discipline  which  separates  them  from  their  neighbours.  Yet  the  choice 
the  layman  has  of  sitting  down  under  one  of  the  many  stocks  of  the  presbyterian  vine,  or 
enjoying  the  shade  of  episcopal  fig-trees  of  varying  height  and  breadth,  of  listening  to  a 
licensed  commentator  or  to  an  unlicensed  expounder,  banishes  all  fear  of  a  renewal  of  the- 
priestly  tyranny  to  which  our  fathers  were  subjected  before  the  days  of  dissent. 

*  Favoured  by  Mr  Charles  Smith,  clothier. 


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CHAPTER  XXVIIL 

Some  Recent  Changes, 

fN  one  respect,  if  in  only  one,  Kirkwall  was  better  off  sixty  years  ago  than  it  is  now. 
There  were  fairly  remunerative  home  indastries  to  occupy  the  attention  of  young  and 
old  and  to  add  to  the  comforts  of  the  household.  Net-knitting  and  straw-plaiting  were 
the  most  prominent  of  these,  and  of  the  two,  the  latter  was  by  far  the  more  important. 

This  manufacture  was  introduced  into  Orkney  by  an  English  company  about  the  be- 
ginning of  the  centuiy.  The  straw  then  used  was  rijiened  wheat  straw,  split  ;  but  the  plait 
made  from  it  was  brittle  and  poor.  Messrs  Muir,  of  Greenock,  through  their  agent,  Mr 
Ramsay,  introduced  an  imitation  of  Leghorn  plait,  and  wheat  straw  gave  place  to  rye  straw, 
unripened  and  unsplit.  At  first  this  rye  straw  was  imported,  but  after  a  time,  stimulated  by 
the  success  of  Mr  Watt  of  Skaill,  farmers  all  over  the  Mainland  took  to  its  cultivation.  The 
seed,  supplied  by  the  manufacturers,  was  put  down  in  March,  twenty  bushels  and  upwards  to 
the  acre.  This  thick  .sowing  brought  the  straw  up  very  close  and  thin  in  the  stalk.  About 
the  middle  of  July  it  was  cut  green  in  small  handfuls.  These  were  tied  up  and  placed  in 
long,  close  boxes,  and  .scalded  with  boiling  water.  In  less  than  an  hour  the  water  was  run  off, 
and  the  bundles  were  laid  out  to  bleach.  This  process,  which  lasted  some  ten  days,  nqnired 
<ilose  attention,  the  straw  being  constantly  turned  to  prevent  mildew.  The  bleaching  finished, 
the  stalks  of  rye  were  cut  at  the  joints,  the  lowest  portion  being  the  coarsest  and  the  top  the 
finest.  The  upper  joints  were  given  to  the  best  plaiters.  The  work  was  paid  for  at  fouri»ence 
to  sixpence  for  twenty  yards,  an  average  day's  plaiting  of  the  coarser  material,  and  Is  6d  to 
2s  6d  of  the  finest  kind,  which  could  be  produced  but  slowly.  Before  returning  her  work,  the 
plaiter  smoothed  it  by  running  it  between  wooden  rollers,  and  she  cleared  it  of  the  odour  of 
peat  reek  by  a  treatment  with  sulphur  smoke.  The  annual  value  of  this  manufacture,  in  its 
best  days  in  Orkney,  has  been  estimated  at  £30,000,  and  it  gave  employment  to  nearly  7000 
women.  In  Kirkwall  the  chief  exporters  were  Messrs  Borwick  and  Ramsay,  the  former 
sending  to  London  and  the  latter  to  Greenock.  Changes  in  fashion,  and  the  reduction  of 
duty  on  foreign  straw-plait,  first  crippled  this  local  industry,  and  finally  killed  it. 

Sixty  years  ago,  tlie  "  village  natural  '*  was  a  recognised  public  character,  and  Kirkwall 
had  several  of  these.  A  toothless  old  woman,  Maggie  Fotheringham,  perfectly  harmles.s,  lived 
on  the  daily  charities  of  her  neighbours.  Jeanie  Fotheringham,  no  relation  of  Maggie's,  had  a 
house  on  the  shore  end  of  the  west  pier,  in  which  she  maintained  a  large  family  of  cats,  but 
she  kept  all  her  surroundings  scrupulously  clean  and  neat. 

A  wild  woman,  Baabie  Traill,  was  a  terror  to  the  urchins  of  the  town  and  to  some  of  the 
householders  also.  She  would  stalk  boldly  into  a  kitchen  and  demand  to  see  the  mistress. 
Her  petition  Avas  always  the  same,  "  Gi'e  me  a  air  o'  meal,  an'  you'll  t'rive  weel."  If  she  got  a 
-dole  to  her  mind,  she  might  depart  quietly,  but  if  she  got  what  she  regarded  as  too  little,  or 
^ot  a  refusal,  her  tongue  was  vile,  and  she  simply  took  possession  of  the  house  till  she  had  to 


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SOME  RECENT  CHANGES  461 

be  turned  out  by  main  force.  When  the  Poor  Law  Act  of  1845  cleared  our  streets  of  such 
people,  Barbara  became  the  guest  of  the  municipality.  In  1847  she  was  sent  to  the  Royal 
Asylum,  Edinburgh.  In  1882,  she  was  transferred  to  Montrose,  where  she  died  the  following 
year,  the  most  expensive'pauper  Kirkwall  ever  maintained.'*' 

Differing  from  these,  in  being  to  some  extent  self-supporting,  was  Johnnie  Wards,  popu- 
larly known  as  "Hillock."  Johnnie  was  a  very  short,  bandy-legged  body,  and  he  suffered 
much  at  the  hands,  or  rather  tongues,  of  the  boys,  who  felt  they  could  torment  him  with 
impunity,  as  they  could  easily  outrun  him.  He  was  not  able  to  bring  his  hand  over  his 
slioulder  to  throw  a  stone,  but  he  could  send  a  swift,  straight,  underhand  shot  that  some- 
times got  home  with  telling  effect,  and  this  furnished  just  the  amount  of  danger  to  give  real 
sport  to  his  tormentors.  It  was  only  in  his  leisure  moments,  however,  and  off  the  street,  that 
AVards  was  subjected  to  this  persecution  ;  while  engaged  in  business  he  was  unmolested. 
Johnnie  had  appointed  himself  scavenger,  and  the  authorities  having  once  given  him  some 
money  out  of  charity,  he  chose  to  regard  the  alms  as  salary  and  an  acknowledgment  of  his 
position  as  a  public  official,  hence  the  following  petition  :— 

**Uiito  the  Honble.  the  Provost,  Magistrates,  and  Town  Council  of  the  Burgh  of  Kirkwall,  The 
Petition  of  poor,  lettel  Johnnie  Wards,  Street  Cleaner,  Kirkwall, 

"  Humbly  Sheweth, — That  your  Honours  graciously  gave  and  the  Petr.  gratefully  received  lOs 
stg.  so  far  back  as  25th  March  1828  for  Cleaning  the  Streets  of  Kirkwall  during  the  year  1827.  That 
he  has  since  continued  to  do  so,  without  receiving  such  allowance,  and  being  in  much  need  of  Cloths 
and  other  necessaries,  he  trusts  your  Honours  will  order  your  Treasurer  to  pay  to  him  £1  5s  on 
account  of  such  service  for  the  last  2^  years,  in  order  that  your  petitioner  may  give  3'our  Honours 
Clean  Streets.  May  it  therefore  please  your  Honours  to  Order  the  above  sume  of  £1  5s  to  be  paid 
him  Accordingly.     And  your  Petitioner,  as  in  Duty  hound,  shall  ever  pray.  His 

*•  13th  August  1880."  John   x   Wards. 

Mark. 

Johnnie  had  pawky  ways  of  extracting  coin  from  his  patrons.  It  was  the  habit  of  Mr 
Baikie  of  Tankerness  to  drive  to  town  every  Saturday,  and,  as  sure  as  he  came,  Hillock  was 
found  sweeping  the  pavement  at  the  gate  of  Tunkernesa  House,  certain  that  a  piece  of  silver 
from  the  Laird  would  reward  his  assiduity.  Though  at  times  plagued  by  the  boys,  "  littel 
Johnnie  Wards"  had  the  favour  of  the  general  public,  and  when  he  died  the  best  people  in 
town  attended  his  funeral. 

Some  old  customs  die  hard.  In  old  time  medical  practice,  blood-letting  was  freely 
resorted  to  in  the  treatment  of  cases  where  stimulants  would  now  be  used.  But  people  in 
perfect  health,  out  of  deference  to  use  and  wont,  would  insist  on  having  a  vein  opened  every 
spring  and  autumn. 

The  operation  was  not  a  difficult  one,  yet  there  were  of  necessity  lancet  wielders  here  and 
there  who  were  regarded  as  specialists.  One  of  these  was  Mr  George  Louttit,  schoolmaster,  of 
Birsay.  His  spring  patients  waited  on  him  at  his  house  ;  but,  on  the  first  day  of  the  Market, 
having  sharpened  his  lancet  on  the  parapet  of  the  bridge  over  the  burn  of  Boardhouse,  he 
started  about  4  a.m.,  walked  to  Kirkwall,  and  on  the  market  stance,  his  patients  having 
arranged  themselves  in  twenties,  he  phlebotomised  them  in  turn,  squad  after  squad.  When 
he  reached  his  twentieth  victim,  he  went  back  to  bandage  the  first,  and  so  on  down  the  line. 
Louttit  was  also  the  parish  accoucheur,  and  it  was  his  boast  that  in  fifty  years  he  "  lost  only 
one  woman."  This  speaks  more  for  the  strength  of  the  Birsay  constitution  than  for  the  skill 
of  the  operator,  who  had  one  treatment  for  all  cases.  "  Immediately  after  the  birth,"  he  says, 
"  I  give  the  mother  two  good  glasses  of  whisky  and  leave  her."  He  died  about  fifty  years  ago, 
aged  ninety-five. 

*  Dates  kindly  furnished  by  Mr  Guthrie,  Inspector  of  Poor. 


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4(>2  KIKKWALL   IN   THK   OKKNEYS. 

Down  to  the  "  Forties"  of  the  present  century,  the  ** sheep-ruing "  at  Quanterness  was  an 
annual  festival  which  gave  a  holiday  to  the  schoolboys  of  Kirkwall.  Every  householder  had 
grazing  rights  on  the  town's  commons,  the  number  of  sheep  allowed  to  each  being  ]»ro portioned 
to  the  valued  rental  of  his  house.  Every  man  had  his  peculiar  ear-mark  by  which  to  know 
his  own,  and  an  unmarked  sheep  had  its  ears  cut  off,  which  indicated  its  confiscation  to  the 
Burgh. 

Peuple  who  had  no  right  to  put  sheep  on  the  town  lands  sometimes  trespassed.  Before  a 
"  Sheep  Chase,"  to  be  held  on  the  fourth  of  May  1721,  the  Town  Clerk  is  instructed  **  to  write 
a  Letter,  in  name  of  the  Counsell,  to  the  Bail  lie  of  ffirth,  advising  him  to  advertise  the  people 
of  firth,  Gerniiston,  and  Heddall  that  they  doe  not  presume  to  make  any  chace  within  the 
Town's  bounds  before  the  said  fourth  day  of  May  nixt.  But  that  such  of  them  as  have  sheep 
in  Wliitefuird  hill  or  Quanterness  may  attend  that  day  at  the  Town's  Quoy  in  Quanterness 
and  receive  their  sheep  there.  And,  also,  the  haill  Town's  tennents  are  appointed  to  attend 
that  Day  and  help  to  Chace."  Thus  the  sheep-ruing  day  became  a  general  holiday,  and  the 
town  was  deserted.  Where  there  were  no  very  young  children,  the  whole  household,  after  an 
early  breakfast,  would  start  for  Quanterness,  carrying  the  day's  provision  with  them.  At  the 
chase  the  boys  were  of  course  invaluable.  The  .sheep  having  been  driven  into  the  great  Bught 
or  Quoy,  marks  were  identified,  and  the  lambs  had  their  ears  properly  notched.  At  the  same 
time  the  loose  wool  was  rued  or  gathered  off  the  ewes  by  drawing  the  fingers  through  the 
fleece,  beginning  at  the  neck  and  working  backwards.  It  is,  perhaps,  needless  to  remark  that 
the  sheep  so  handled  were  the  original  Orkney  breed,  still  seen  pure  and  wild  in  North 
Bonaklshay. 

One  or  two  confiscated  animals,  caught,  killed,  and  cooked  on  the  spot,  laid  the  ground- 
work of  a  feast  for  the  presiding  magistrates  and  their  friends,  which,  copiously  moistened 
with  liquors  brought  out  from  town,  closed  the  day's  proceedings.  This  function,  which  wound 
up  with  much  hilarity,  was  opened  with  great  formality.  At  a  meeting  of  Council,  30th  April 
1731,  it  was  arranged  that  the  sheepright  of  Quanterness  should  be  held  on  the  fifth  of  May, 
and  that  of  Carness  on  the  thirteenth.  Patrick  and  George  Traill,  baillies,  were  to  have 
charge,  and  were  to  hold  a  Bailie,  a  Justice  of  the  Peace,  and  an  Admiral  Court  at  each  place. 

Among  the  improvements  of  comparatively  recent  times,  the  lighting  of  the  Burgh  takes 
a  prominent  place.  Down  to  the  "thirties"  of  the  present  century,  even  in  a  bright 
summer  day,  the  shops  of  greatest  pretensiim  were  dingy  places.  The  windows  were  small 
and  blocked  up  with  goods  ;  the  doors  were  unglazed,  and  what  light  was  admitted  through 
the  doorway  was  got  by  opening  the  whole,  or  the  upper  half  of  the  door.  It  was  a  very 
connnon  sight,  when  business  was  easy,  and  that  was  the  general  state  of  matters,  to  see  the 
merchant  leaning  over  the  lower  part  of  the  door,  with  head  out,  enjoying  the  cool  air  or  a 
chat  with  passers  by.  At  night  the  better  class  of  warehouses  were  lighted  with  tallow 
candles,  and  the  smaller  shops  with  rashes  and  fish  oil  in  the  old  cruisie.  Where  people  now 
come  for  a  gallon  of  mineral  oil  their  forebears  went  for  a  quantity  of  train  oil,  and  when  this 
came  from  the  bottom  of  the  retailer's  jar,  its  odour  would  have  been  perfume  in  Esquimaux 
nostrils.  In  workshops,  where  several  men  wrought  together,  the  single  cruisie  was  scarcely 
sufficient,  as  one  of  the  number  had  a  monopoly  of  the  light.  A  shoemaker's  cruisie,  where 
two  men  sat  working,  had  a  couple  of  lamps  attached  to  a  common  back.  Indeed,  .square 
cruisies  were  sometimes  made,  having  a  deep  oil  well,  and  a  run  for  the  rashes  at  each  of  the 
four  corners. 

In  1810,  the  first  London  Gas  Company  got  its  charter.  In  March  1820,  the  High  Street 
of  Edinburgh  was  lighted  with  gas,  and  it  speaks  well  for  the  enterprise  of  Kirkwall  that  as 
early  as  1838  our  local  gas  company  was  formed  :— Chairman,  James  Baikie  of  Tankerness  ; 


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SOME   RECENT   CHANGES.  463 

Deputy,  George  Rc»bertson,  merchant ;  Treasurer,  James  Shearer,  merchant ;  Committee, 
John  Baikie,  banker  ;  George  flewison,  harbourmaster  ;  Peter  Cursiter,  merchant ;  John 
Scott,  merchant ;  David  Marwick,  mercliant ;  John  Tait,  merchant ;  George  M'Beath,  mer- 
chant ;  Secretary,  John  Mitchell,  writer.  They  got  a  gas  manager  from  the  south  of  the  name 
of  Daniels,  took  a  feu,  and  proceeded  to  build  and  manufacture.  From  the  beginning  the 
company  had  the  pleasure  of  supplying  a  felt  want,  but,  through  the  initial  expenses  of 
production  and  distribution,  it  was  years  before  the  shareholders  got  their  first  return  of  two 
and  a  half  per  cent,  from  their  venture. 

So  ripe,  however,  was  the  country  for  the  new  light  that  private  individuals,  working 
from  description  and  diagram,  were  here  and  there  making  gas  for  themselves,  and  even  in 
this,  Kirkwall  was  not  behind  the  age.  The  first,  and  probably  the  only  shop  in  Kirkwall  thus 
supplied,  was  that  at  the  Bridge  now  belonging  to  Mr  Malcolm  Heddle,  Burgh  Chamberlain. 
It  then  belonged  to  an  enterprising  firm,  Messrs  Spence  &  Eunson,  and  their  light  was  a 
source  of  wonder  to  the  boys  of  the  Burgh.  People  from  the  country  would  stay  late  in  town 
to  see  the  strange  sight,  and  among  these,  a  customer,  whose  language  was  notoriously  strong, 
waited  in  the  shop  one  evening  till  the  queer  lamp  was  lit.  There  w^ere  two  lads  in  charge  at 
the  time,  and  one  of  them  told  the  expectant  rustic  that  the  light  had  a  peculiarity— it  went 
out  at  once  if  it  heard  any  bad  language.  The  other  took  the  cue  and  went  to  the  meter. 
Flame  was  apj»lied  to  what  seemed  to  be  a  metal  rod,  and  immediately  there  was  a  beautiful 
clear  light.  "  Well,  blank  my  eyes,"  cried  our  friend,  and  on  the  word  he  Was  in  darkness. 
"  Oh,  blank  it,"  the  yokel  shouted  as  he  escaped,  thankful  to  find  himself  in  the  street  without 
bodily  injury. 

Mr  Eunson  was  not  content  to  remain  an  amateur  manufacturer  ;  he  went  to  England, 
and  was  appointed  manager  of  the  Wolverhampton  Gas  Works. 

The  first  private  house  in  Kirkwall  lit  by  gas  was  that  house  in  the  Laverock,  now  the 
property  of  Mr  Peter  Shearer,  contractor.  John  Hepburn  had  the  laying  of  the  pipes,  and  a 
relative  of  his  lived  here,  so  Hepburn's  influence  secured  for  this  house  the  first  private  burner. 

For  some  years  after  gas  was  in  use  in  shops  and  dwelling-houses,  the  street  lamps  were 
supplied  with  oil.  These  lamps  were  few  and  far  between,  and  their  object  seemed  to  be 
simply  to  mark  cornera  which  wayfarers  n)ight  pass  unnoticed  in  the  darkness.  The  lamp- 
lighter, or  "  Leerie,"  generally  a  good-natured  fellow,  who  could  put  up  with  a  following  of 
boys  at  his  heels,  carried  on  his  right  shoulder  a  ladder,  and  in  his  left  hand  a  burning  peat, 
held  in  a  doubled-up  piece  of  hoop  iron.  The  lamps  were  hung  in  brackets,  an  upright 
fastened  to  the  wall  with  a  limb  projecting  at  a  right  angle.  Fixing  his  hook  ladder  to  the 
horizontal  bar,  Leerie  mounted,  opened  the  lamp,  blew  his  peat  into  a  glow,  touched  the  oil 
with  it,  and  thus  got  flame  to  serve  his  purpose.  When  the  last  lamp  was  lit,  the  peat  was 
thrown  into  a  puddle,  the  boys  gave  a  cheer,  and  the  ploy  ended  for  the  evening. 

Twenty  years  ago,  1876-1879,  water  by  gravitation  was  led  into  the  Kirkwall  houses,  and 
a  drainage  systeu)  was  completed,  The  engineers  were  the  well-known  firm  of  Messrs  Leslie 
<k  Reid,  Edinburgh,  with  Messrs  J.  D.  Millar  and  Alfred  C.  Hebden  as  local  superintendents. 
Before  that  time,  householders  who  had  not  private  wells,  required  to  have  their  water  carried 
home  from  the  public  pumps.  The  most  usual  mode  of  carriage  was  in  pails  or  buckets,  but 
when  a  larger  (juantity  was  required,  the  say  was  employed.  This  was  a  large  tub,  with  two 
opposite  staves  rising  half  a  foot  higher  than  the  rest.  Through  each  of  these  a  round  hole 
was  cut  to  admit  a  pole,  called  the  «a^  tt^ee.  When  the  tub  was  as  full  as  it  could  safely  carry 
without  sphishing  the  bearers,  it  was  brought  along,  the  ends  of  the  sap  tree  resting  on  the 
shoulders  of  two  persons.  The  work  was  heavy,  especially  on  women,  who  generally  had  it  to 
do,  and  a  common  piece  of  gallantry,  always  well  received,  was  for  a  couple  of  lads  to  relieve 


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4G4  KIRKWALL   IN    TUI£  OUKNKYS. 

the  lasses  of  their  9ay^  and  the  well  and  the  $ay  often  led  a  lad  and  lass  through  the  usual 
course  of  tryste,  courtship,  and  marriage. 

In  1836,  a  filip  was  given  to  the  trade  of  Orkney  by  an  Aberdeen  company,  which  placed 
a  steamboat  on  the  passage  from  Leith  to  Lerwick,  and  included  Kirkwall  among  the  inter- 
mediate ports.  The  northern  winter,  however,  was  long  considered  too  stormy  for  the 
steamer,  and  from  November  to  the  beginning  of  spring,  she  did  not  run.  But  the  old  sailing 
packets  long  maintained  their  position  as  public  carrier.'^,  aiui,  till  about  twenty  years  ago, 
provided  accommodation  for  passengers.  The  George  Canning,  Sir  Joseph  Ranks,  Mary 
Balfour,  Pandora,  and  Paragon  were  all  famous  in  their  day.  But  the  exigencies  of  modern 
business  demanded  a  punctuality  which  wind-driven  vessels  could  not  supply,  and  a  few 
years  ago  the  last  of  them,  the  Pomona  and  Queen  of  the  Isles,  were  withdmwn  and  « 
steamboat  put  in  their  place. 

Sixty  years  ago  every  farmer  and  merchant  in  the  islands  was  a  boatman,  and  able  to 
manage  the  transport  of  his  grain,  or  cattle,  or  goods.  But  by  and  by,  through  the  general 
advance  of  trade,  the  want  of  something  larger  and  safer  than  the  open  yawl  was  felt,  and 
smacks  doing  a  weekly  trip  were  run.  These  qiade  fair  time  in  ordinary  weather,  but  when 
the  wind  fell  light,  the  tides  would  sweep  them  off  their  course,  and  a  passage,  say  from 
Kirkwall  to  Sanday,  might  last  as  many  hours  as  would  take  the  steamboat  from  Kirkwall  to 
Leith.  Such  constantly  recurring  accidents  led  to  a  general  disregard  of  the  value  of  time. 
To  make  the  be»t  of  an  ebb  tide  for  an  outward  trip,  it  was  always  intimated  that  the  smack 
would  start  at  a  particular  hour.  Coming  to  the  pier  thirty  minutes  after  the  appointed  time, 
a  passenger  jmt  his  luggage  on  board,  and,  finding  that  the  skipper  was  not  ready,  went  up 
town  again.  Meeting  another,  and  having  informed  him  that  there  was  "  no  hurry,"  the  two 
went  their  different  ways  on  business  or  pleasure.  Meanwhile  the  crew,  having  got  through 
their  preparations,  sit  and  smoke,  waiting  for  the  loiterers.  After  a  time,  some  one  is  sent  to 
search  shop  and  tavern,  while  perhaps  the  objects  of  his  enquiry  have  got  down  unseen  by 
him.  Then  a  second  messenger  goes  to  bring  the  first,  and  these  two,  having  met  and  had  a 
jug  of  ale  together,  come  leisurely  down.  All  this  time  i)oor  women,  i^erhaps  with  young 
children  in  charge,  wait  with  an  api)earance  of  stolid  indifference.  To  them  every  hour  spent 
at  the  pier  is  a  reprieve  from  the  inevitable  sea-sickness  which  lies  before  them.  When  at 
length  the  packet  does  start,  it  is  to  meet  an  adverse  tide  before  she  has  got  half-way  to  her 
destination,  and  the  time  lost  on  the  land  in  the  morning  is  doubled  on  the  sea  in  the  evening. 

In  1865,  through  the  energy  of  Captain  George  Robertson,  a  natiye  of  Stronsay,  regular 
steam  conmmnication  with  the  North  Isles  was  opened  up,  and  all  this  was  changed. 
Punctuality  was  insisted  uj)on.  A  would-be  passenger,  coming  leisurely  down  the  pier  in  the 
usual  "  no  hurry"  fashion,  seeing  it  is  only  three  minutes  past  the  sailing  hour,  finds,  to  hia 
dismay,  that  the  hawsers  are  on  board  and  the  boat  in  motion,  while  all  the  consolation  he 
receives  is  a  stern  injunction  to  look  sharp  in  future  when  he  wants  a  passage.  Apart 
altogether  from  commercial  considerations,  the  "Orcadia"  has  done  admirable  work  as  a. 
l>opular  educator,  and  has  taught  thousands,  who  never  would  have  learned  it  otherwise,  that 
time,  even  down  to  minutes,  is,  in  certain  circumstances,  as  valuable  as  coin,  seeing  that  to 
the  islesman  a  lost  pa^isage  meant  lost  money. 

In  1857  Orkney  got  its  first  Road  Act,  and  immediately  excellent  highways  opened  up 
the  whole  mainland.  Before  that  time  people  who  had  some  distance  to  travel  had  either  to 
walk,  to  risk  being  shaken  to  pieces  in  a  cart,  or  to  go  on  horseback.  The  wholesale  merchants 
of  Kirkwall  who  supplied  country  dealers  rode  out  to  their  customers  to  secure  orders  and  get 
in  their  accounts,  and  there  are  those  still  among  us  who,  in  their  younger  days,  conducted 
business  in  this  manner.    The  old  Strom ness  road,  which  is  not  much  worse  now  than  it  was 


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SOME   KECENT   CHANGES.  465 

when  it  held  the  proud  position  of  being  the  best  road  in  Orkney,  shows  what  the  best  was, 
while  the  ordinary  style  of  cart  roads  is  well  represented  by  the  rutty  tracks  which  lead  to 
our  peat  banks  and  mosses. 

The  annual  struggle  between  the  "  Up-the-Gates "  and  "  Down-the-Gates "  over  the 
"  New  Year's  Ba' "  still  continues.  Civil  and  ecclesiastical  powers  have  in  vain  combined  to 
put  it  down  ;  magistrates  and  ministers  have  found  themselves  powerless  in  the  presence  of 
popular  custom.  Mr  Gordon  Robertson,  resident  sheriff  from  1841  to  1846,  and  who  must  not 
be  mistaken  for  his  successor,  Sheriff  James  Robert.son,  had  a  scheme  for  imi)roving  Broad 
Street,  by  planting  trees  and  flowers  on  the  Kirk  Green.  In  those  days,  to  have  lifted  the 
ball  would  have  been  very  risky  for  the  lifter  ;  the  ball  was  kicked  or  dribbled,  but  never 
held,  so  it  went  all  over  the  street  and  green,  and  to  carry  out  his  views  the  Sheriff  issued  an 
edict  abolishing  the  ball.  This  drew  out  on  the  next  occasion  a  greater  crowd  than  ever. 
The  Chamberlain  of  the  Earldom  was  guarding  the  narrow  pass  at  the  head  of  Broad  Street, 
and  to  him  went  the  irate  judge,  actually  threatening  imprisonment.  The  Town  Clerk,  Mr 
John  Mitchell,  overhearing  the  words,  shouted  out,  "You'll  need  to  put  us  all  in  jail,"  and 
plunged  into  the  scrimmage,  from  which  he  by-and-by  emerged  with  only  one  tail  to  his  coat. 
But  this  old  institution,  which  set  all  authority  at  defiance,  is  obviously  sinking  into  a  gradual 
decline.  The  first  downward  step  was  the  starting  of  a  ball  on  Christmas  Day,  and  now  there 
are  something  like  half-a-dozen  balls.  This  kind  of  thing  tends  to  make  the  ball  a  nuisance, 
and  is  certainly  killing  the  enthusia.sm  so  strongly  inspired  by  the  old  New  Year's  Ba\  When 
the  ball  was  2)layed^  skill,  agility,  and  fleet uess  of  foot  came  to  the  front,  while  the  animal 
strength  and  courage  of  the  oi)posing  factions  was  proved  by  another  test. 

The  bonfire  on  the  Kirk  Green  to  c(mmiemorate  the  Koyal  birthday,  inaugurated 
probably  in  the  time  of  George  I.,  was  continued  well  into  the  reign  of  Queen  Victoria.  For 
a  good  many  days,  and  perhaps  more  ])articularly,  niffhtSy  previous  to  the  twenty-fourth  of 
May,  the  youths  of  the  town  busied  themselves  in  collecting  and  arranging  material  for  the 
fire,  and  often  useful  wooden  utensils  would  lie  hidden  under  the  miscellaneous  collection  of 
combustible  rubbish  which  caught  the  eye.  The  pile  was  incomplete  without  an  old  boat, 
which  was  by  no  chance  either  bog«,'ed  or  bought,  but  was  always  forcibly  al>ducte(l.  In  the 
midst 'of  the  whole  was  a  tall  flag-staft.  When  the  light  wius  applied  it  became  evident  from 
the  excitement  on  the  faces  of  the  ansfmbled  crowd  that,  while  they  were  intent  on  watching 
the  blaze,  they  had  an  ulterior  object  in  view.  The  Up-tho-Gates  and  Down-the-Gates,  grim 
and  determined,  muster  at  their  respective  sides  of  the  fire.  When  the  conflagration  is  at  its 
height  it  is  seen  that  the  middle-tree,  caught  in  the  bight  of  a  ro})e,  is  swaying  to  one  side, 
and  loud  cheers  rise  from  the  successful  faction.  But  suddenly — and  very  few  see  how  it 
comes  about — the  nuist  is  straitened  by  an  opposite  pull,  and  cheers,  or  rather  roars,  go  u})  all 
round.  The  swaying  of  the  pole  turns  the  bonfire  into  an  o])en  crater  ;  the  flame  gets  freer 
access  to  the  butt  of  the  stick,  which  is  now  burning  clearly.  But  it  has  lost  its  support  and 
falls,  to  the  lucky  side.  Immediately  the  unburnt  part  is  gripped  by  as  many  hands  as  there 
is  space  for,  and  off  it  goes  towards  its  goal,  Burgar's  Bay  or  the  Harbour.  But  there  is  a 
check.  A  double  hitch  of  chain  has  been  deftly  cast  over  the  butt  of  the  pole,  and  an  iron 
spike  to  prevent  its  slipping  is  unickly  driven  in  by  a  young  blacksmith,  waiting  his  opj)or- 
tunity,  and  now  "  pull  baker,  pull  devil."  Singed  garment  and  burned  skin  go  unnoticed. 
The  heavy  end  of  the  mast,  sometimes  on  the  grcmnd,  stmietimes  swinging  free,  goes  foremost 
in  the  rush,  and  by-and-by  is  jammed  with  the  crowd  into  the  narrow  court  above  the  head  of 
the  town,  or  plunged,  with  a  hiss,  into  the  harbour.  The  middle-tree  disposed  of,  back  comes 
the  crowd  to  the  bonfire  and  congregate  on  the  weather  side  of  it.  While  there  is  still  a  high 
circle  of  flame  a  hero,  with  a  rush,  jumps  into  the  centre  of  the  crater  and  out  at  the  other 

30 


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466  KIRKWALL   IN   THE  ORKNEYS. 

flide.  He  is  followed  by  another  and  another.  The  less  agile  break  down  the  outer  wall,  and 
when  the  burning  fragments  have  been  kicked  through  the  crowd  of  onlookers  and  all  over 
the  street,  the  revels  end  for  a  year. 

In  its  early  days  the  bonfire  was  built  at  the  expense  of  the  town,  but  latterly  it  got  into 
the  hands  of  the  crowd,  and  bad  practices  were  resorted  to  by  its  promoters.  Petty  thefts 
were  numerous  and  annoying.  Business  was  sometimes  interrupted.  A  boat  the  boys  had 
requisitioned  stuck  in  Bridge  Street,  stopping  the  traffic  for  hours ;  and  Sheriff  Robertson, 
powerless  against  the  Ba',  had  little  difficulty  in  getting  the  bonfire  renioved  to  Warrenfield. 
Here  it  lost  the  attention  of  the  public,  and  gradually  expired. 

In  the  Kirkwall  of  to-day,  any  one  blessed  with  health  and  endowed  with  industry  can 
secure  all  the  comforts  and  many  of  the  luxuries  of  life.  The  bulk  of  the  people  may  be 
described  as  well-to-do.  Poverty  and  squalor  and  vice  are  still  to  be  found,  and  probably 
will  always  be  found,  but  their  area  diminishes  as  time  rolls  on. 

With  perhaps  the  exception  of  sf>me  small  |)atches,  all  the  lands  in  Orkney,  including  the 
earldom,  have  been  purchased  with  the  fruits  of  industry,  and  as  these  change  ownership  they 
are  acquired  by  men  whose  commercial  enterprise  has  furnished  the  means  of  making  such 
investments.  And  fortunes  can  still  be  made  here  and  lands  acquired  by  men  w'ho  know  how 
to  make  use  of  their  opportunities.  Merchants  who  are  able  to  divert  a  jiortion  of  the  stream 
of  commerce  into  a  new  channel  have  wealth  at  command.  Of  business  in  Kirkwall  at  the 
present  day,  it  is  safe  to  make  the  general  a.ssertion  that  it  is  ciirried  on  more  honestly  than  in 
days  gone  by.  When  the  whole  mercantile  community  was  tarnished  with  contraband 
trading,  men  found  it  an  easy  step  from  cheating  the  revenue  to  over-reaching  each  other. 
With  this  improvement,  life  in  the  ancient  burgh  is  very  much  what  it  always  has  been— 
with  some  a  struggle  for  daily  bread,  with  others  the  pleasure  of  superintending  a  prosperous 
and  increasing  trade,  and  with  now  and  then  a  disapiwinted  man  facing,  as  well  as  he  can, 
failure  and  ruin.  Apart  from  the  changes  thrust  uiwn  them  by  time's  progress,  small  com- 
munities are  apt  to  stereotyi^  their  habits.  This  has  been  well  expressed  by  a  Scottish 
poet : — 

**  For  we  are  the  things  that  our  fathers  have  been, 
We  see  the  same  sights  that  our  fathers  have  seen, 
We  drink  the  same  stream,  and  we  feel  the  same  sun, 
And  we  run  the  same  course  that  our  fathers  have  run. 
They  died— ay,  they  died  !  and  we  things  that  are  now, 
Who  walk  on  the  turf  that  lies  over  their  brow, 
Who  make  in  their  dwellings  a  transient  abode, 
Meet  the  changes  they  met  on  their  pilgrimage  road. 
Yea,  hope  and  despondence,  and  pleasure  and  pain, 
Are  mingled  together  like  sunshine  and  rain  ; 
And  the  smile,  and  the  tear,  and  the  song,  and  the  dirge, 
Still  follow  each  other  like  surge  upon  surge." 


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Appendix. 


PROVOSTS. 


There  is  no  minute  book  in  existence  prior  to  1691,  but  James  the  Third's  Charter,  31sk 
March  1486,  gave  Kirkwall  a  Provost  and  Bailies.  The  confirmation  of  the  Charter  by- 
James  v.,  8th  February  1536,  was  granted  to  the  Provost  and  Bailies.  From  1744  to  1763, 
and  from  1777  to  1787,  the  books  have  disappeared.  The  troubles  of  the  "Forty-five"  may 
have  had  something  to  do  with  the  first  break  in  the  list  of  minute  books,  but  it  is  quite  as 
likely  that  the  suit  between  Stromness  and  Kirkwall,  which  lasted  from  1742  to  1758,  may 
have  caused  the  removal  of  the  minutes  to  Edinburgli,  and  they  may  have  been  left  there^ 
We  incidentally  meet  with  the  names  of  some  of  the  early  Provosts  long  before  the  date  of 
the  first  minute  book. 


Henry  Sinclair  was  Provost  in  1549. 

Patrick  Ballenden,  1565. 

Lord  Robert  Stewart,  1567. 

Earl  Patrick,  1600. 

Harie  Stewart,  1619. 

Captain  Thomas  Knightson,  1620. 

Edward  Sinclair,  1622. 

Thomas  Buchanan,  1636. 

George  Dnimmond,  1648. 

James  Keith,  1651. 

Patnck  Blair,  1654. 

Patrick  Craigie,  1659. 

George  Traill  of  Quendale,  1690. 

Hugh  Craigie  of  Gairsay,  1691. 

Thomas  Louttit  of  Lyking,  1694. 

George  Traill  of  Quendale,  1696. 

David  Traill  of  Sabay,  1698. 

Andrew  Young  of  Castleyards,  1710. 

David  Traill  of  Sabay,  1712. 


John  Covingtrie  of  Newark,  1718. 
James  Traill  of  Woodwick,  1730. 
George  Traill  of  Hobbister,  1733. 
James  Baikie  of  Tankemess,  1737-1744. 
William  Lindsay,  1788. 
Robert  Lain^,  1788. 
Thomas  Traill,  1792. 
Thomas  Jameson,  1812. 
John  Riddoch,  1814. 
Thomas  Pollexfen,  1818. 
Samuel  Laing,  1820. 
Captain  William  Balfour,  1834. 
James  Baikie  of  Tankerncss,  1836. 
James  Spence,  1850. 
Alexander  Bain,  1862. 
Colonel  David  Balfour,  1872. 
Samuel  Reid,  1876. 
.Thomas  Peace,  1887. 
Nicol  Spence,  1892. 


MEMBERS  OF  PARLIAMENT  FOR  KIRKWALL. 


1669-74,  James  Moncrieff,  Merchant,  Burgess 
1681-82,  David  Craigie  of  Oversanday 
1686-88,        „        „ 
1689-98,  George  Traill  of  Quendale 


1698-1702,  Sir  Archibald  Sinclair 
1702-1707,  Mr  Robert  Douglas,  who  voted  for  the^ 
Union 


MEMBERS  FOR  NORTHERN  BURGHS. 


1707,  John  Haddon 

1708,  Lord  Strath naver 

1710-41,  Colonel,  afterwards  Sir  Robert,  Munro 

1742-47,  Robert  Craigie  of  Glendoig 

1747-61,  Sir  Harry  Munro 

1761-68,  Major-General  John  Scott 

1768-73,  Hon.  Alexander  Mackay 

1773-80,  (ien.  James  (Trant  of  Ballindalloch 

1780-84,  Col.  Charles  Ross  of  Marangie 

1784,  Right  Hon.  Charles  James  Fox,  who  sat  for 

Westminster,  for  which  he  had  also 
been  elected 

1785,  George  Rosa 

1786,  Captain  C.  Ross 

1786-96,  Sir  Charles  Ross  of  Balnagowan 

1796-1802,  William  Dundas 

1802-5,  Right  Hon.  John  Charles  Villiers 


1805-6,  James  MacDonald  of  Langdale 

1806,  Sir  R.  Mackenzie 

1806-8,  Brigadier-Cieneral  J.  R.  Mackenzie 

1808-12,  Right  Hon.  Sir  W.  H.  Freemantle 

1812-30,  Sir  Hugh  Inues 

1830-52,  James  Loch 

1852-57,  Samuel  Laing 

1857-59,  Lord  John  Hay 

1859-60,  Samuel  Laing 

1860-65,  Viscount  Bury 

18G6-G8,  Samuel  Laing 

1868-72,  George  Loch 

1872-85,  Sir  John  Pender 

1886-92,  J.  Macdonald  Cameion 

1892-96,  Sir  John  Pender 

1896-1900,  T.  C.  H.  Hedderwick 

1900,  Arthur  Bignold 


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ERRATA.* 


Page  33. 

line  16, 

„    34, 

„    35, 

..    39. 

„    19, 

..     67, 

..      9, 

..    69, 

,,      8, 

„    78. 

.,    16, 

„     98. 

.,    20, 

.,  134, 

f»    34, 

„  2()8, 

,.    40, 

.,  251, 

,.    13, 

„  305, 

..    42, 

..  4U. 

„    38. 

for  "  black  letters"  read  "  Black  Letter." 

for  "two "read  "four." 

for  "  Dornoch  "  read  "  Tain." 

for  "  St.  Andrews"  read  "  St.  Andrew." 
,  for  "sensyme"  rea<l  "sensyne." 

for  "predecessors"  rea<l  "predecessor." 
,  for  "nine"  read  "  fifteen." 

for  "  Maconnochie"  read  "  Nicolson." 

for  "  Ivenich,  Chemist,"  read  "  Guthrie  of  Wideford." 

for  "  Graham  of  Rothiesholm,  who  bought,"  read  "  Smythe, 
yr.,  who  sold." 

for  "  Medinia"  rea<l  "  Middinia." 

for  "  Watson  "  read  "  Cooper." 


In  addition  to  the  above,  the  reader  may  observe  one  or  two  typographical  errors. 


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INDEX. 


Abbotshauoh,  222 

Aberdeen,  34,  62,  75,  80,  81,  85, 
86,  89,  155,411 

Aberdeenshire,  249 

Aberdour,  Fife,  332 

Aberbrothwick,  396 

Acerbister,  250 

Acre,  8 

Act  of  Navigation,  285 

Adair,  Mr  John,  390 

Adam,  John,  359 

Adams,  Dr.,  High  School,  Edin- 
burgh, 451 

Adamson,  Andrew,  150 

Adamson,  James,  55,  184,  185, 
318 

Adams(m,  Patrick,  34,  37,  54, 
55,  56,  185,  359 

Adamson,  Peler,  318 

Adrian  the  Cook,  379,  380 

Adriatic,  9 

Advocates'  Close,  229 

Advocates,  Faculty  of,  395 

Advocates'  Library,  395 

Afghan  War,  196 

Agnetta,  daughter  of  Earl  Malise, 
13 

Agnew,  John,  291 

Lady,  291 

Margaret,  291,  292 

Sir  James,  291 

Agricola,  1 

Aikerness,  324,  373 

Aikin,  John,  420 

Aikman,  Mr,  450,  452 

Aime,  Thomas,  422 

Aire,  2,  121,  145,  177,  345,  372, 
376 

Airey,  144 

Aisedale,  Bum,  105 

Aitken,  Harry,  50,  180,  182,  223 

Mr  Henrv,  415 

NicoU,  254 

Thomas,  408,  409 

Aithstown,  80 

Akerhouse,  226 

Akemess,  199 

Albany,  Duke  of,  16,  18 

Albert  of  Mechlenburg,  15 


Albert  I^ne,  169 

Street,  169,  183-208,  394 

Alexander  III.  of  Sootlsknd,  12, 

38,  50,  60,  61 
Alexander,  Col.  W.  Gordon,  169 
Alexander,  Robert,  169 
Alfred,  Duke  of  E<linburgh,  101 
Alison,  Margaret's  daughter,  431 
Alkmaar,  201 
Allan,  Balfour,  364 
Allan,  James,  164,  276 
Allan,  William,  392 
Amsterdam,  33 
Anchor  Close,  155,  238 
Anderson,  (ieorge,  and  wife,  428 

Isobel,  125,  190,  251,  255, 

261,  426,  427 

J.,  193 

Rev.  James,  273,  451 

James,  330,  380,  453 

John,  445,  446 

Rev.  John,  271,  272 

Magnus,  330,  453 

Mrs,  Evie,  395 

Thomas,  251 

Walter,  380 

Andrew,  Bishop,  18,  19,  21,  63, 

330 
Anglesea,  Sound,  5 
Angus  (county),  444 
Angus,  Richard,  148 
Anguson,  James,  427 

Jean,  426 

Annabella,  Queen,  234 
Annand,  Rev.  James,  24,  199,  229 
Anne,  Queen,  20,  21,  94,  137,  316 
Anne  of  Denmark,  247,  431 
Anne,  sloop,  336 

Ansehn,  58 
Anstruther,  5l 
Annual  of  Norway,  12,  17 
Apulia,  9 
Arbroath,  291 
Arbuthnott,  339 
Archibald,  James,  222 

Lieut.  James,  201 

Archdeanery,  227,  228,  239 
Ardloch,  MacKenzie  of,  146 
Argyle,  Duke  of,  361,  390 


Armada,  Spanish,  50 
Armadale,  Lord,  134,  279,  280 
Ami,  8 
Amot,  Sir  John,  23,  28,  93,  94, 

182 
Arran,  Earl  of,  20,  21,  93 
Arskvne,  Robert,  89,  151,  224 
Arundall,  131 
Assembly  Room,  107 
Asolf,  10 
Assynt,  23,  81 
Atkine,  Rev.  James,  81 
Atlantic,  3 
I  Auchinleck,  Francis,  79,  288,  321 

John,  32 

Lord,  292 

Thomas,  79 

Auchtergavin,  77 
Augu.stine,  Saint,  39 
Austin  at  Culloden,  304 
Avelshaw,  262,  266 
Aykenhead,  Morayshire,  64 
Aj'toun,  Professor,  401 


Baberton,  88 
Back  (Tuard,  414 

Walk,  412 

Baikie,   Alexander,  of  Papdale, 
105. 

Alexander,  dyer,  368 

Andrew,  Landwaiter,  288 

Andrew,  of  Hoy,  238 

Anna,  177 

Arthur,  32,  38,  84,  96,  101, 

I  117,  120,  P22,  131,  135,  15,', 
185,  187,  189,  190,  197,  205, 
2(»6,  223,  224,  240,  241,  242, 
245,  2r>4,  323,  342,  375,  417. 

Barbara,  130,  212 

Bess,  183 

Captain,  R.N.,  56,  92,  288, 

327,  330,  337,  354,  355,  356, 
357,  386,  415,  463. 

Capt.  Robert,   of  the  Fen- 

cibles,  201 

Christina,  383 

—  Eleanor  Edmeston,  261, 328j 
357 


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470 


INDEX. 


Baikie,  Elizabeth,  185,  186.  204 

Ensign  J.,  Fencibles,  201 

Factor  of  Sabay,  130 

Frances,  207 

George.  97,  98,  208 

Hugh,  183,  197,  238 

James,  of  Bnrness,  54,  90, 

171.  183,  194,  195,  238 

James,  of  Tankerness,   44, 

92,  95,  98,  113,  1'22,  127,  131, 
148,  183,  187,  207,  208,  215, 
265,  380,  4i)6 

Jean,  308 

John,    133,    137,    170,    180, 

215,  239,  240,  456 

John,  Brother  of  Tanker- 
ness, 326,  328,  413 

Magnus,  90,  179,  240 

Margaret,  18,5,  186 

Marjorie,  200 

Mary,  119,  201,  207,  215 

Mary  Margaret,  201,  205 

Messrs  Samuel,  &  Sons,  1 13, 

232 

Br.   William    Balfour,    56, 

206,  328,  371 

Mr  William,  187,  241 

MurclcK'h,  183 

Paul,  240 

Rev.   Thomas,   of  Burness, 

123,  139,  152,  238,  239,  248, 
268,  286,  308,  313,  316,  380, 
383,  440,  455 

Robert,  46,  87,  97,  98,  130, 

187,  201,  206,  207,  212,  239, 
248,  324,  366,  370,  386,  388, 
389 

Samuel,  371 

Sibilla,  194 

Thomas,  122,  142,  145,  179, 

375,  389 
W.  U,  370 

of  Burness,  194,  197 

of  Tankerness,  38,  45,  89, 

94,  97,  126,  134,  KW,  171,  191, 
236,  243,  245,  267,  288,  309, 
3-20,  329,   355,  368,  369,  370, 

376,  378,  380,  384,  389,  394, 
415,4-28,  461,  462 

Bain,  Alexander,  113,  142 
William    Watt,    137,    142, 

143,  405 
Baird,  John,  230,  231 
Bakka,  Westrav,  199 
Rvlcaskie,  300,  305,  306 
Ba'  Lea,  25,  106,   12^),  395,  401, 

445 
Ba'  Money,  434 
Balfour,  Alison,  97 

Anne,  191 

Archibald,  68 

Captain  John  Edward  Lig- 

onier,  201 
Castle,  Fife,  198 


Balfour  Castle,  Shapinsay,  203 

Col.   David,   56,   203,   275, 

354 

Elizabeth,  Mrs  Manson,  198 

Elizabeth,    Mrs    Nicolson, 

206,360 

Frances,  360,  361 

George,  320 

George,  of  Pharay,  38,  87, 

200,  376 
Gilbert   (Knight),    21,    68, 

182,  199,  200 
Hospital,  200,  352, 354, 355, 

356,  357,  361 

l8ol)el,  573 

James  William,  Colonel,  203 

John,  H.E.I.C.S.,  201,  a>4, 

355 
John,  of  Trenaf)y,  136,  158, 

200,  218,  231,  271,  354,  355, 

38,') 
Lieutenant  William,  R.N., 

341,  342,  354,  378,  380 

Mary,  Mrs  Brimton,  201 

Mary,  Mrs  Traill,  158 

Michael,  198,  200 

Patrick  of  Pharay,  200,  265, 

415 

Stewart,  Mr,  192 

Thomas,  Advocate,  354 

Thomas,  Colonel,   130,  167, 

200,  201,  202,  328,  337,  341, 

411 

Thomas,  of  Huip,  147,  148 

of  Trenaby,  215 

Thomas,  son  of  Trenaby,  218 

William,  of  Elwick,  Capt., 

R.N.,  167,  198,  201,  203,  215 

William,   of    Pharay,   200, 

373 
William,  of  Trenaby,  147, 

148,  198,217,219,  302,411 
Balgoun,  2;52,  2.'53,  255 
Biillantyne,  William,  243 

Margaret,  218 

Ballenden,  Adam,  329,  349,  415 

Anne,  186,  240,  340 

Elspeth,  UK),  191,  237 

of  Evie,  22,  2<56 

Isobel,  180,  349,  350,  351 

Jean,  288 

John,  349 

Ludovic,  Sir,  93 

Margaret,  296,  37J,  432 

Sir  Patrick,  226,  349,  425 

Patrick,  Provost,  95 

Patrick,  434 

of  Stenness,  236 

Thomas,  of  Stenness,   267, 

349,  373 
William,  of  Stenness,  324, 

373,  444 
Ballentine,  444 
lialmerino,  Lord,  88 


'  Balnagowan,  192 
'  Baltic,  229 
;  Balwearie,  180 

Balvaird,  Mr  John,  265 

Banff,  188 
I  Bank  of  Scotland,  203,  337 

Banks,  Alaster,  318,  358 

John,  318,  358 

Manor  House  of,  317,  318, 

319 

in  Orphir,  379 

Sir  Joseph,  399 

Bannatyne,  Adam,  77 

Mr  Peter,  449 

Robert,  of  Groundwater,  150 


Bannockburn,  12,  62 

Barbadoes,  336 

Barnardson,  421 

Bametson.  James,  23 

Baniett,  James,  Crown  Cham- 
berlain, 202,  294,  295 

Baron,  Bishop  Robert,  80 

Barry,  Rev.  Doctor,  19,  63,  78, 
207,  231,  298,  336,  363,  364, 
365 

Barscobe,  Laird  of,  444 

Barclay,  98 

Baxter's  Close,  135,  326 

Beatonc,  James,  89 

Marjorie,  89 

Beauly,  64.  65 

Beaumont,  Mr  John,  278 

Betfgar's  Badge,  142 

Bell,  Mr  Joseph,  surgeon,  396 

Thomas,  157 

Btllie,  Robert,  335,  423 

Benares,  367 

Bengal,  196 

Benhom,  252 

Benziecoat,  Sanday,  336 

Bergen,  50,  61,  131 

T^rginson,  John,  29 

liernardson,  Edward,  317,  318 

Bernardson's  Land,  317 

Bernardson,  Thomas,  317 

l^rriehill,  James,  368 

Berstane,  349,  398 

Ber8U)un,  Thomas,  256 

Bertraham,  William,  403 

Berwick,  80,  96 

Bewis,  Adam,  259 

Biggar,  Presbytery  of,  316 

Billings,  architect,  91 

Binscarth,  194,  238 

Birkenhead,  459 

Birsay,  5,  6,  22,  24,  29,  38,  49, 
58,  82,  101,  133,  173,  191,  198, 
231,  244,  245,  248,  291,  437, 
461 

Birsay  and  Harray,  133,  173,  335 

Birstane,  396 

Bishop  Cup,  86 

Bishop's  Palace,  19,  58,  72,  77, 
87,  134,  169,  225,  345,  381,  384 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


471 


Bismers,  408 
.  Bisset,  Rev.  Father,  364 
Biarni,  Bishop,  10,  50,  58,  59,  60 
Black,  George,  373 

James,  348,  357,  358 

Jared,  54,  297 

Jean,  282 

Margaret,  288,  311 

Watch,  203 

Blacketter,  William,  361 
Blackfriars  Church,  Edinburgh, 

66 
Blackfriars  Wynd,  18 
Black  Roll,  318,  419 
Blaeu,  390 

Blaikietoun,  Helen,  245 
Blair.  George,  377 

Lieut. -Colonel,  253 

Patrick,  54,   71,    182,  209, 

244,  247,  248,  251,  321,  3*22, 

323,  414,  452 

Peter,  130,  174,216 

Rev.  Robert,  84 

Robert,  387,  388 

Blaw,  Doctor,  198 

Edward,  N.P.,  198 

Rev.  William,  198,  421 

Blebo,  234,  235 

Blessing  (ship),  131 

Bligh,   Captain   of    the   H.M.S. 

"  Bounty,"  332,  333 
Bligh  at  Cullo<len,  304 
Block  House,  South,  213,  225 
Blue  Blanket,  403,  404,  406 
Board  house,  461 
Boag,  38 

Bodie,  Rev.  Gilbert,  185 
Boendr,  8,  9 
Boerhaave,  197 
Boescaille,  250 
Boethius,  62 
Bonar,  Margaret,  373 
Bo'ness,  446 
Bonot,  21 

Boog,  Thomas,  428,  429 
Book  of  Discipline,  246 
Boroughmuir,  81 
Borthwick,  Lord,  18 

Robert,  33 

Berwick,  George,  342 

Rev.  Jas.,  of  Rathillet,  342 

Robert,  338,  341,  342,  352, 

380,  384,  446,  455,  460 

William,  446 

Boswell,  David,  243 

J.  A.,  459 

Katherine,  243 

Bothwell,  Adam,  Bishop,  21,  47, 

68,  69,  70,  199,  215,  227 

Lady  Anne,  70 

Duke  of  Orkney,  93 

Town,  91 

Bridge,  284,  285 

Earl  of,  21,  49,  70,  416 


Bothwell,  Francis,  199,  227 

Sir  Francis,  68 

Janet,  68 

Margaret,  199 

William,  95 

Boulogne,  66 

Bounty,  H.M.S.,  333 

Boyd's  Town  House,  Edinburgh, 

352 
Boynd,  Jean,  300 

John,  330,  331 

Braco,  35,  54,  79,  80,  81 
Braebister,  150,  204,  251 
Brand,  Sir  Alexander,  182,  210 
Brander,  James,  274,  345 
Brandiquoy,  276,  278.  304,  355, 

380,  381,  383 
Brassy,  194 
Braxfield,  Lord,  279 
Brebner,  Adam,  424 
Brebner,  180 
Brechin,  Bishop  of,  74 
Breck,  119,  120,237,458 
Breckncss,  40,  78,  79,  80,  90,  94, 

173,  175,  176,  177,  205,«79* 
Breckwell,  336 
Breda,  83 
Bremner,  Doctor,  232,  356,  380, 

457 

Jean,  192 

William,  298,  370,  446 

Bressay,  208 
Bressay  Sound,  69 
Brewery,  The,  400,  401 
Brewster,  Sir  David,  60 
Bridge,  117,  160,  167,  168,  169 
Bridge  Street,   121,  133  to  168, 

372,  383 
Bridge  Street  Wynd,  167 
Brims,  324 
BriUin,  25,  26,  93 
Broadfoot,  Dr. ,  447 

George,  196 

James,  196 

William,  196 

Rev.  Mr,  196,  446,  447,  452 

Broad  Sands,  97,  105,  339,  341, 

344  345  347 
Broad  Street,  27,  109,  133,  139, 

195,  222  to  260,  286,  288,  345, 

352,381,414 
Brodie  of  Brodie,  244 

of  Whitehall,  244 

Brotchie,  Mr,  380 

Brougham,  Lord  Chancellor,  281, 

395 
Broun,  Edward,  89 

David,  89 

John,  89,  184 

Lieut.,  170 

Magnus,  184 

Robert,  412,  413 

Robert  of  Weyland,  412 

Brown,  Anne,  362 


Brown,  Arthur,  362 

Charles,  291 

Elspeth,  205 

Isobel,  362,  363 

Janet,  412 

John,  375,  419,  433,  434 

Thomas,  N.P.,  87,  89,  97, 

98, 130, 139, 151,  180,  205,  209, 

210,  230,  236,  237,  240,  284,  ' 

332,  339,  342,  359,  361,  362, 

363,  376 
Bruce,  Alexander,  322,  333 

Bishop  Andrew,  88,  151 

Isobel,  281 

Jean,  130 

Dr  John,  167 

John,  167,  405 

King  Robert,  12,  18,  61,  62 

Mr,  factor,  293 

Robert,  of  Auchinlay,  130 

Brucht,  123,  124 
Brude,  King,  1 
Bruntfield,  Adam,  306 

Patrick,  235 

Brunton,  Dr.,  278 
Brusi,  4 

Brusison,  4,  161,  162,  169 
Brusison's  Kirk,  378 
Bryce,  Mr,  architect,  91 
Bu'  of  Cairston,  214 

of  Orphir,  281 

Buccleuch,  134 
Buchan,  (Jeorge,  100 

John,  99 

Rev.  Pet«r,  of  Holm,  314, 

449 
Buchanan,  7,  29,  60,  86 

Angus,  126 

Arthur,  82,  84,  90,  94,  96, 

117,   135,   137,  138,  146,  180, 

189,   193,  207,  214,  234,  240, 

256,  279,  288,  321,  322 

George,  265 

Janet,  145,  146 

James,  180 

John,  38,  139,  189,  290,  321, 

340 

Katherine,  281 

Marjorie,  189,  279, 281, 288, 

289 

Mungo,  N.P.,98 

of  Rusland,  87, 120,  180,  231 

Sir  John,  28,  94,  179,  180, 

182,  207 
Thomas,  170,  180,  182,  281, 

288,  289,  358 
Buckinghamshire,  Lady,  102 
Bui  the  Thick,  59 
Budge,  Margaret,  318 
Bur  don,  James,  156 
Burgar's  Bay,  364 
Burgh  Briggs,  244 
Burgh  Charter,  7,  168 
Burgh  School,  402 


Digitized  by 


Google 


472 


INDEX. 


Barn,  Mr,  architect,  91 

Burnet,  402 

Bum  of  Pabdale,  5,  19,  164.  167 

Burness,  288 

Burns,  Robert,  436 

Burntislaud,  247 

Burra,  243 

Burray,  80,  81,  83,  88,  107,  201, 

215,  216,  224,  226,   233,  234, 

236 
Burroughs,  Lieut. -General  F.  W. 

Traill,  159 
Burton,  John  Hill,  2,  64 
Burwick,  79,  90,  192,  233,  234 
Bute,  60 

Bute,  Marquis  of,  49,  228 
Butquoy,  105,  195,  203,  295,  380, 

422 
Butter  Storehouse,  120 
Butts,  276,  295,  385,  386,  422 
Buxtoun,  Margaret,  Lady  Sound, 

135,  146,  189,  190 
Byre's  Close,  Edinburgh,  70 
Bvron,  332 
Byttiti,  Skipper,  361 


Cabbage  Park,  402 

Cabul,  196 

Cadboll,  154 

Caenmore,  Malcolm,  13 

Caird,  Adam,  89 

Cairlin  Skerrv,  281 

Cairston,  214^  288 

Caithness,  8,  10,  12,  22,  26,  50, 

131,   151,  188,  217,  232,  233, 

234,  415 

George,  Earl  of,  25,  26, 54, 73 

John,  Earl  of,  20,  22 

- —  William,  Earl  of,  192 

Calais,  51 

Caldale,  191,  207 

Caldell,  Jean,  419 

Caldell,  John,  122,  171,190,338, 

339 
Calder,  Donald,  331 

Mrs,  290 

Peter,  289,  290,  380 

Caledonian  Mercury,  273 
Calf  Holm,  144,  157 
Calfsound,  131,  144 
Callender,  79 
Calmar,  15 

Cameron,  Clerk,  College  Kirk,  427 
Campbell,  Elizabeth,  280,  281 
Campbell,  Hay,  of  Succoth,  397 

James,  of  Laweris,  415 

Sir  Colin,  159 

Camstone,  38,  170 
Candia,  8 
Cannij^ml,  105,  305 
Canon  I)  I  ilia  House,  197 
Canterbury,  74 
Cant,  David,  119 


Cant,  Isobel,  119 

John,  119 

Cant's  Land,  119 

Captains,  Society  of,  439 

Carberry  Hill,  21 

Carbisdale,  413 

CargiU,  William,  135,  264,  265 

Carmichael,  Christian,  288 

WMlliam,  288 

Sir  Darell,  252 

Carnegie,  Andrew,  232 
Camess,  25,  105 
Carr,  John,  444,  445 
Can-ick,  Earl  of,  44 

Carrie  k,  Eday,  144 

on  Shannon,  201,  337 

Carson,  John,  196 
Carters'  Park,  25,  402 
Cassaubon,  Isaac,  74 
Cassilis,  Earl  of,  66 
Castle,  Edinburgh,  25,  27,  33 

Hill,  Edinburgh,  43,  66 

Hotel,  27,  364 

of  Hall  of  Norae  Earls,  5, 

8,  9,  12,  13 
Kirkwall,    15-28,   63,    107, 

122,   134,   169,    189,   195,   197, 

199,   213,   214,   222,  223,  224, 

225,  366 

Street,  27,  366-371,  378 

Yards,   90,   101,    110,    174, 

208-213,  215,  434,  442 
Cathedral  Nave,  289 
Catherine  Place,  400,  412 
Celestiuus,  Pope,  I 
Cevennes,  The,  459 
Chalmers,  Andrew,  362 

Anna,  318 

Ai-chilmld,  95 

Bailie,  308 

Elspeth,  339 

James,  380 

John,  406 

Margaret,  124,  125,312,426 

Chahuei*a,  Rev.  Mr,  452 

Robert,  320 

Mr  Thomas,  373 

Chambers,  Jolm,  435 
Chancellors  Manse,  243,  244,  245 
Chapel    of     Our    Lady    in     the 

Laverock,  205,  245,  290 
Chapel  To\^cr,  73 
Chaplain's   Chambers,  245,  288, 

381 
Chaplanrieof  Sanct  Salvator,  206 
Charity  School,  364,  400 
Charles  I.,  28,  80,  94,   138,  229, 

204,  413 
Charles  IL,  82,  83,  85,   94,  96, 

138,  215,  340,  382,  423,  442,  443 
Charles  YII.,  France,  17 
Charming  Mally  (ship),  294 
Cheshunt  College,  447 
Chester,  Edward,  428 


Chimside,  444,  445 
Chishohn,  Alexander,  428 

Rev.  Donald,  364 

Christian  L,  16,  17,  63 

Christie,  Rev.  Mr,  448 

Christ's  Kirk,  6,  6,  49 

Church  Collections,  439 

City  of  Kirkwall,  7 

Clare,  Sir  John,  67 

Clark,  A  lister,  256 

Clarkisquoy,  379 

Claudian,  1 

Claybraes,  348 

Clayloan,  U\,  342,  364,  378,  379, 

387,  402,  411 
Cleat,  Stronsay,  147 

Westray,  199,  219,  373 

Clerk,  James,  439 
Cleatrain,  146,  398 
Hall  of,  56,  134,   136,  144, 

279,  283 
Cletts,  205 
Cleveland,  346 
Clickimin,  144,  149 
Clontarf,  4 
Clouston,  Henry,  314 

Hugh,  170.  314,  317 

Mrs  Hugh,  316 

Mr  and  Mrs,  of  Caldale,  142 

Rev.  William,  273 

Clova,  105 

Clundie,  150 

Cluny,  77 

Clyde,  60 

Coalston,  Lord,  292 

Cobb,    Rev.    John,   88,  89,   151, 

267,  420 
Cobban,  James,  128 

Miss,  317,  318 

Robert,  318 

Cochrane,  Rev.  William,  142 
Cock,  Edward,  185,  415 

James,  185,  415 

Oliver,  185 

Rev  James,  185 

Rev.  Thomas,  185 

Cockburn,  Lord,  395,  400 

Cocked  Hat,  360 

Coins,    foreign,     circulating    in 

Scotland,  440,  441 
Colebrook,  Sir  George,  158 

Mary,  158,  159 

College   Kirk,    Edinburgh,    338, 

427,  428 

St  Andrews,  84 

of  Surgeons,  56,  193 

Colman,  Rev.  Charles,  352 
Col  vend,  247 
Colville,  Edward,  231 

James,  298 

Rev.  Harrv,  227,  298 

William,  298 

Columbus,  16 
Congleton,  Lord,  459 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


47» 


Commercial  Bank,  95,  137,  179, 

2^,  338,  342 
Commissiouers      of      Northern 

Lighte,  389,  390 

Trade,  232 

Committee  of  Estate,  415 

Commonwealth,  28,  83,  94,  138 

Corny n,  John,  12 

Constan,  Mr  Patrick,  246 

Constantinople,  8 

Contin,  86 

Convention  of  Royal  Burghs,  96, 

98,  100,  103,  104,  232 
Cooper,  Colonel  Thomas,  414 

Lieutenant,  159 

Richard,  145,  302,  304,  369 

Cope,  Sir  John,  325 
Copeohagen,  15,  17 
Copland,      James,       merchant, 

Deerness,  352 
Mr,  teacher,  277,  338,  364, 

449 

Mr,  Register  House,  364,449 

Messrs,  106 

Corbesdail,  81,  215,  432 
Corbet,  Ann  Jane  Maria  Harriet, 

144 
Cordiners,  404,  406 
Cor  mack,  I,  2 
Cormack,  Henrietta,  112 
Com  Slip,  127 
Comer,  Andrew,  184,  308,  428 

Davi<l,  321,  322 

William  de  la,  308 

Coraquoy,  255 
Corrigall,  James,  259 

Henry,  453 

Corse,  106,  245,  287,  293 
Corston,  William,  404 
Cottascarth,  259,  265,  407 
Coubister,  150,  320 
Council,  Burgh,  22 
County  Buildings,  295,  383 
Couper,  George,  159 

James,  89 

John,  89 

Couper's  Ha',  32 

Court  of  Four  Burghs,  96 

Justiciary,  343 

Session,  65,  68,  271 

Covenanters,  81,  229 
Covenanters'  Monument,  284 
Covingtrie,  Catherine,  135,  170 
David,  43,  44,  45,  54,  135, 

136,  137,  170,  180.  376,  377 
Covingtrie,  Elizal)eth,  .137,  200 

Jean,  160,  170 

John,  52,  90,  94,  100,  127, 

133,   135,    136,  140,  174,    181, 

182,  202,  377,  389,  406 

Marjorie,  190 

Thomas,  1 37 

William,  135 

Cowan,  Captain,  R.N.,  317 


Cowan,  Mrs,  380 
Craftie,  377,  378 
Craig,  James,  teacher,   192,  278, 

357,380,381,434 
Craif^ie,  Andrew,  139 

Anna,  237 

Barbara,  237 

Catherine,  335 

David,   52,   133,  137,  139, 

156,  230,  236,   237,  238,  248, 
266,  267,  377 

Elizabeth,  341,  434 

Euphan,  139 

Francis,  167 

Henry,  139 

Hugh,  137,  138,  139,  237, 

330,  414 

Isobel,  235 

James,  406 

John,  265,  414,  415,  430 

Magnus,  137 

Margaret,  139,  237 

Patrick,  38,  84,  97, 122, 308, 

339,  340.  341,  434 

Thomas,  38 

W- iUiam,  137,  138,  139, 140, 

394,  414,  415 

Uonyman,  279 

of  Gairsay,  45,  52,  99,  128, 

133,   236,  237,  255,  256,  265, 

266,  267,  269 
Craig's  Sands,  243 
Craill,  83,  84,  131 
Crantit,  293,  336,  360 
Craven,  Rev.  J.  B.,  459 
Crawford,  Christian,  325 

Earl  of,  75 

— —  James,  24 
Crear,  James,  457 

William,  452 

Crew,  R.  M.,  416 
Crichton  Castle,  73 

Marion,  78,  79 

Crieff,  79 

Crightons,  The,  45 
Crimean  War,  159 
Cromartie,  Adam,  23,  260 

John,  298 

Margaret,     150,     159,    343, 

430,  433 
Cromarty,  23,  103,  26S 

Eari  of,  154,  2:^0 

David,  of  Widewall,  288 

Hutcheon,  150 

Magnus,  89,  363 

Patrick,  89 

Cromwell,  42,  52,  81,  83,85,  137, 

188,  229,  382,  413,  416 
Crom well's  Fort,   167,  188,  208, 

311,  412-416 
Crook,  193 
Cross  and  Burness,  137,  142,  185 

of  Edinburgh,  27,  398 

House,  173,  175 


Cross  Kirk,  Sanday,  205 

Market,  105,  169,  209,  340 

Crown  (ship),  284,  285 

Crown  Chamberlain's  Office,  289 

Crusades,  367 

Cuck  Stool,  417 

Cuikisquoy,  379 

Culbertson,  llev.  Mr,  445,  447 

Culdees,  2 

Cullodeu,  146,  216,  217,  296,  302, 

303,  304,  326 
Culross,  Stephen,  65,  226,  227 
Culstane,  349 
Cumberland,  Duke  of,  195,  217, 

302,  303,  304 
Cumming,  James,  merchant,  89, 

207 

Magnus,  412 

Margaret,  229 

Thomas,  95 

Cunningham,  Eupham,  85 

Mr  John,  267,  268 

Curlew,  H.M.S.,  390 
Curry,  Sir  Pierce,  60 
Cursater,  Thomas,  453 
Cursetter,  Jonet,  120,  144 
Cursetters,  The,  120 
Cursetter's  Yard,  126 
Cursiter  Brothers,  189 

James  W.,  228 

John,  144,  193,  330,  371 

Miss,  193 

Peter,  310,  313,  463 

Cursitor,  John,  90 

Cursitter  (house  of),  291 

Curzon  Street,  200 

Custom  House,  203 

Cuthbert,  Elizabeth,  170, 172,175 

John,  54,  124,  127,  144 

Cyane,  H.M.S.,  360 


Daisybank,  380 

Dale,  Elizabeth,  176 

Dalespot,  105,  269 

Dalkeith  and  Aberdour,  Lord,  321 

Dalniahov,  Alexander,  126 

Dairy m pie.  Sir  David,  248 

Sir  Hew,  166 

Damsay,  9,  49,  329 

Darby,  459 

D'Arteville,  Nicolay,  390 

Darnley,  Lord,  21,  199,  395,  415 

Dauphin  of  France,  66,  67 

David,  Bishop,  12 

Duke  of  Rothesay,  16 

David  and  James  (ship),  179 
David,  Harald's  son,  12 
David  of  Sal»ay  (ship),  132 
Davidson,  Jean,  54,  358 

Hugh,  358 

:  Mr  John,  268 

William,  a/tew  Harray,  358 

Rev.  William,  307,  335,  423 

3p 


Digitized  by 


Google 


474 


INDEX. 


Davidson,  William,  writer,  118, 

187,  318 
Davidson's  Houses,  119 
Davidson's  Land,  187,  189 
Davis' Strait,  413 
Deacons  of  the  Trades,  113 
Deans,  Davie,  229 
Dearness,  John,  354 

Mrs,  355 

Dee,  Bridge  of,  75 

Deemess,  38,  78,  132,  139,  148, 

160,  185,  231,  363 
Deer  Sound,  179 
Deldale,  William,  348 
Delday,  Marion,  430 
Delting,  273 

Denmark,  9,  17,  93,  96,  400 
Denmark,  Norway  and  Sweden, 

Kingdom  of,  15 
Dennison,  John,  113,  225 

Richard,  142 

Dennistoun,  147,  299,  300 
Derbists,  459 
Deupaig,  Louis,  110 
Devonshire,  Duchess  of,  102 
Dick,  Lady  Anne,  230 

Alexander,    199,  226,  227, 

229 

Andrew,  40,  118,  156,  182, 

205,  230,  254,  330 

Isobel,  351,  358 

John,  40,  41,  131,  182,  230, 

256,  260,  330,  331 

Sir  William,  of  Braid,  28, 

94,  125,  18-2,  229,  230,  330 

Dick's  Loft,  130,  141,  230 
Dickson,  James,  125 
Dieppe,  66,  67 
Dingwall,  85,  102,  124,  255 
Dioclcsian,  286 
Dirleton,  28,  94 

Lord,  18 

Dishington,  Andrew,  165,  263 
Catherine,  165 

John,    120,   129,    165,  253, 

263,  265,  266 

Rev.  Andrew,  165,  166 

Robert,  h>5,  167 

Thomas,  110,  120,  122,  161, 

164,  165,340,  431,435 
Disruption,  453,  457 
*'  Doctor"  (The  Aire),  374 
Dolgfinnr,  Bishop,  50,  61 
Don,  89 
Donaldson,  James,  313,  314 

Robert,  223,311 

Mr,  458 

Dornoch,  102,  431 
Dorset,  Earl  of,  173 
Douglas  (parish),  118 

Archibald,  234 

Effidia,  16 

Elizabeth,  130 

Janet,  187,  244 


Douglas,  Jean,  372 

John,  51,  421 

Lord  William,  16 

Margaret,  18 

Miss,  of  Egilshay,  244 

of  Spynie,  38,  90,  94,   120, 

182,  208,  209,  224,  243,  244, 

320,  322 
Rev.  Alexander,  Bishop  of 

Moray,  243.  244 
Rev.  James,  47,  118,  382 

Robert.,  51,  52,    182,  211, 

232,  244 

Sir  Alexander,  of  Egilshay, 

90,  94,  182,  244 

Sir  James,  of  St.  Ola,  213 

Thomas,  438 

William,  Earl  of  Morton,  51 

William,  of  Esrilshay,  243, 

244,  320,  321,  322,' 323 

William,  of  Midgarth,  118 

William,  Stronsay,  38 

Dowcot,  178 
Dow,  John.  348 
Downie,  Alexander,  343 
Downer,  Thomas,  452 
Dowvray,  324 
Dragoon  Guards,  7th,  203 
Drain ie,  273 
Dreaver,  Inga,  433 

Mai'garet,  432 

Drever,  Ann,  221 

David,  119,  130,412 

Elizabeth,  160 

Esther,  221 

James,  373,  400,  401 

Thomas,  120 

Drill  Hall,  458 
Drumalban,  1 
Drumblade,  86 
Drumelzier,  277 

Drummond  and  Company,  Bank- 
era,  354 

Captain,  145,  178,  190,  230 

Collector,  153 

David,  156,  230,  241 

Hntcheon,  169,  170 

Isobel,  430 

James,  305 

John,  170,  350 

Mary,  156 

Mr,  249 

of  Baloughie,  54 

of    Blair-Drummond,    81, 

156,  253 

Robert,  321 

Dryden,  Sir  Henry,  30,  31,  33, 

39,  50,  52,  60 
Dublin,  11 
Ducro  (Holm),  255 
Duff,  Hon.  Arthur,  391 

Sheriff,  134,  395 

Duffus,  Lord,  154,  201,  468 
Duguid,  Dr,  142, 192, 193,356,380 


Dugnid,  Rev.  John,  142,  192 
Duke  of  Montrose  (ship),  451 
Dumbarton  Castle,  24,  223 
Dumfries,  12,  247 
Dun,  Lairds  of,  444 
Dunbar,  George,  254 

John,  160 

Patrick,  154 

Dunbeath,  48 
Dunblane,  76,  77 
Duncan,  Earl  of  Fife,  199 

John,  90 

Duncansbay,  233 
Dundas,  293 

Catherine,  120 

Charles,  241 

Crescent,  400,  402 

Lord,  90,  127,  208,  273,  274, 

293,  365,  383,  384,  385 

of  Arniston,  302,  336,  338 

Sir  Lawrence,  28,  36,  46, 

94,  101,  130,  136, 166,  187,  213, 

220 

Sir  Thomas,  28 

Thomas,  213,  241 

Dundee,  73,  100,  149,  396,  448 
Dunfermline,  368 
Dungalsbay,  192 
Dungarvon  (Jamaica),  175 
Dunkeld,  253 
Dunkirk,  310,  412,  413 

(frigate),  23,  412 

Dunlay,  Private,  159 
Dunn,  Mrs,  380 

Rev.  Mr,  274,  277,  455 

Dunnet  (Caithness),  315 

William,  130,  400 

Dunrossness,  243 
Dunse,  392 

Law,  229 

Dupaique,  Louis,  307 
Dutch  Man-o'-War,  416 

Prisoners,  370 

Dysart,  246 


Earl's  Palace,  23, 24,  72-94, 107, 

134,  231,  244,  339,  383 

Seat,  351 

Early,  Earl  of,  444 
East  Bank,  137 

Church,  373,  457,  458 

Hill,  132,  167,  396,  397 

Road,  167,  400 

Eastern  Empire,  9 

Eday,  20,  82,  131.  144,  146,  146, 

149,  394 
Edgar,  King,  199 
Edinburgh,  18,  22,  24,  25, 27,  34, 

35,  50,  51,  56,  67,  81,  84,  94, 

96,  98,  233,  452 
Edmeston,  Captain,  399 
Edmonston,  John,  332,  333 
Margaret,  332 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


475 


Edward  the  Confessor,  198 

Edward  the  First,  12 

Eele,  James,  336 

Egilshay,  2,  6,  7,  25,  29,  46,  58, 

81,  87,  90,  94,  144,  185,  243 
Ego,  James,  432 
Emar,  Earl,  4 
Eirick,  Hakonson,  59 
Elau,  Bishop,  74 
Elcho,  Lord,  303 
Elgin,  85,  86,  140 
Elizabeth  (ship),  129,  132 
Eliza  (packet),  277 
Ellen  (barque),  412,  413 
Ellis,  Andrew,  170,256,  298,  335 
EUyer  Holm,  177 
Elphingston,  Edward,  119,  126, 

John,  38,  88,  321,  322 

Margaret,  37,  90 

Colonel  Robert,  88,  89,  94, 

151,  238,  362,  408 

William,  88 

Elphinston,  Alexander,  291,  292 
Elphinstone,  James,  88 

John,  88 

Lord  Robert,  88 

Marie,  170 

Peter,  297 

Ronald,  88 

William,  268 

Eirick,  Hay,  282 

Elsness,  38,   126,  129,  218,  219, 

230,  296 
El  wick,  118,  139 

Rvy,  60,  141 

Emraerson,  George,  311 

Sergeant  William,  311,  414 

Thomas,  311 

Emmerson's  Land,  311,  313 
Endeavour  Straits,  333 
England,  11,  19,  51 
Englishes,  The,  40,  42,  85,  414 
English  Plantations,  285 
Euhallow,  135,  226,  349 
Erburie,  Harry,    122,    126,  230, 

236,241,  311,  414 

John,  236,  238.  266, 267,  306 

Marie,  306 

Eric  of  Denmark,  16 

Norway,  61 

the  Pomeranian,  62,  63 

Erlend,  Earl,  5.  8,  9,  49 

Erroll,  Earl  of,  75 

Erakine,  Colonel,  231 

David,   90,   331,   338,  344, 

34.5,  380 

Ebenezer,  444 

James,   162,  163,  164,  242, 

338,  372,  374,  392 

John,  409 

Henry,  444 

Robert,  338,  361,  362,  427, 

428 


Erskine,  Ralph,  444 

SheriflF,  134,  275,  276,  395, 

396,  397 

Sir  Alexander,  70 

Erskine's  Houses,  70 

Esson,  Adam,  291 

Eunson,  (Jeorge,  128,  242,  387, 

388,  389.  390,  402 

J.,  193 

James,  424 

Magnus,  425 

Mr,  463 

Robert,  425 

Evans,  Captain,  187 

Evie,  40,  82,  92,  175,   176,  189, 

349,  36:^  444 

and  Rendall,  192,  288 

Ewart,  Colonel,  159 
Ewenson,  Nicol,  241,  406 
Ewing,  Rev.  Mr  Greville,  452 


Fair  Islk,  50,  51,  109,  186,  193, 

243,  266,  270 
Fala  and  Soutra,  194 
Falkirk,  145,  217,  222 
Falkland,  16,  22 
Farquhar,  Mr,  271 
William,  110,  348,  357,  358, 

363,  379 
Fasti  Ecclesiffi  Scoticanse,  395 
Fea,  Alexander,  14ft 

Anne,  144 

Barbara,  144 

Christian,  1 19 

Doctor,  107,  187,  188,  189 

Elizabeth,  144,  239,  331 

Helen,  144,  231 

Henry,  146 

Isobel,  144 

James,  Lieutenant,  144 

James,    of    Clestrain,    107, 

144,   145,   146,   147.   152,  153, 

155,  217,  218,  231, 268, 389,  415 

James,  of  Whitehall,  231 

James,  in  Gruttell,  41 1 

James,  Pyoner,  178 

James,  seaman,  336 

Jennet,  144 

John,  144,  146,  147 

Patrick,  119,  132,  144,  147, 

231,239,377 
William,  127.  139,  145,  153, 

198,  216,  231,  268,  315 
Fea,  in  St.  Ola,  105 
Fearne,  Walter,  150,  151 
Fencibles,  North  Lowland,  200, 

201,  337 
Ferguson,  David,  110 

Duncan,  295 

Ferozesha,  196 
Ferozpoor,  196 
Ferrawel,  293 


Ferrier,  Admiral,  327 

Fewell,  214 

Fidge,  Plain  of,  126,  129 

Fife,  17,  51,  77,  180,  198 

Fife,  William,  184 

Finlasone,  John,  335,  394 

Firth  (Parish),  38,  121,  148,  189» 
231.  462 

and  Stenness,  109,  133 

William,  364 

Fishery  Officer,  232 

Flaitt,' David,  259 

Flam  borough  Head,  16 

Float,  John,  417 

Fleckry  (Norway),  131 

Fleming  at  Culloden,  304 

Lord,  66 

Rev.  Dr,  458 

Flesh  Market,  213,  225 

Flete.  Christe,  124 

William,  124 

Flett  (Harray),  38 

Davi.l,  101 

Elizabeth,  205 

George,  459 

James  Ferguson,  175 

Janet,  1 18 

John,  101,205 

Magnus,  131 

Marion,  120 

Messrs,  &  Sons,  118 

P.  (postrunner),  193 

Peter,  surgeon,  355,:<56, 380^ 

Robert,  186,  318,  358,  424 

T.,  merchant,  193 

Thomas  (miller),  374,  377 

Thomas  (vintner),  155 

Thomas  (barrowman),  237 

William,  131,445 

Flodden,  19,  64,  92,  93,  403 

Flotta  Calf,  215 

Flottay,  215 

Flustigar,  407 

Flying  Hart  (ship^  131 

Folsetter,  William,  170,  445 

Footlmll,  422 

Forl>es,  David,  N.P.,  34,  54,  56^ 
71,  170,  171,  180,  184,205,209, 
224,  241 

Elizalx'th,  205 

Elspeth,  180 

Janet,  l.>6 

l^dy  JacobinaHendrina,231 

Patrick,  Bishop  of  Caith- 
ness, 2i^l 

of  Waterton,  155 

Mr  William,  274 

Sir  William,  194,  329,  337 

Fordyce,  Presbytery  of,  313 

Foreland,  180 

Forfarshire,  134 

Fort,  The,  416 

Fotheringham,  207 

Jeannie,  460 


Digitized  by 


Google 


476 


INDEX. 


Fotheringham,  Maggie,  460 

Mr,  371,  380,  384,  456 

Foubister,  Jaines,  181 

John,  453 

Thomas,  121,  376,  407,  409 

Foulis,  J.  (sailor),  193 

-■ —  Colonel   Robert  Monro  of, 

136,  153 
Foiilzie,  Gilbert,  47,  68, 199,  227, 

228,  229,  239,  240 

Ursiilla,  185,  239 

Fowler,  Rev.  William,  246 
Fox.   Charles  James,    102,   103, 

396 
F<;yer8,  James  Fi-aser  of,  85 
France,  16,  17,  65,  459 
Francis  I.,  65 
Franklin,  Sir  John,  57 
Fraser,  Agnes,  85 

Alexander,  123,  201 

(Jeorge,  89 

James,  128 

of  Foyers,  85 

Fraserburgh,  142,  438 

Freemasonry,  3(56 

Freemasons,  128 

Free  Tolbooth,  458 

French  War,  416 

Fribo,  Westray,  199 

Fullerton,  Mr  Thomas,  236,  266, 

267 
Funeral  Expenses,  437 


Oadie,  Margaret,  394 

William,  321 

Gairlics,  Lord,  245 

Oairsay,  7,  8,  11,  45,  137,  139, 

243,  330,  393,  452 
Gallery,  The,  120,  155-160,  412 
Galliafd,  David,  432 
Oalloway,  Bishop  of,  74,  82,  86 
Earl  of,  215,  217,  220,  245, 

410 
Gallowha',  402,  412 
Garden,  Margaret,  236 

Robert,  120,  159,  412 

Gardener,  Hon.  E.,  158 
Gardyne,  Rev.  John,  331 
Garrioch,  Archibald,  295 

(xeorge,   197 

John,  426 

Robert,   142 

Garsend,  214 

Garson,  John,  352 

Garth,  92,  98,  11>9 

Geddes,  Alexander,  32,  33,  176, 

177,  376,  441 

David,  189 

Miss,  189 

Mrs  Alexander,  177 

Mrs  John,  127 

"General  Assembly,  73,  75,  77,  82, 

139,  364,  382 


Genev^a,  74 

Gentlemen's  Ha',  217,  220 

George  1.,  36,443,465 

II.,  182 

III.,  90,  93,  102 

IV.,  93.  182,437 

Georgeson,  452 

Georgesone,  James,  N.P.,  265 

Gerald  tried  for  sedition,  395 

Germany,  367 

Germ  is  ton,  462 

Geri-ard,  Rev.  Mr,  452 

Gibson,  Captain  John,  of  Corse, 

143,  361 
Gibson,  George,   143,   211,  250, 

361 

Katherine,  176 

Rev.  Mr,  170,  176,  254 

Gift  of  God  (ship),  131 

(yilbride.  Earl  of  Angus,  12 

Gillespie,  Mr,  architect,  276 

Gillis,  St  Ola,  293 

Gillon,  Mr,  153 

Gilmour,  Lord  President,  415 

Gilmour,  Mr,  183 

Girnell  House,  24,  124,  127,  128, 

129,  372,  408 
Gladstone,  W.  E.,  101 
Glaitness,  106, 124,  245,  365,  376, 

381 
Glasgow,  77,  78,  81,  86, 149,  197, 
338,  452 

Archbisfiop  of,  74,  76 

(Jlenbervie,  Douglas  of,  1 18 
Gloucester,  Bishop  of,  434 
Glowmesholm,  215 
(iockhall,  120 
Gmlsend  (ship),  131 
Gold,  Andrew,  27,  90,  371 
Goldberg,  Nathan,  167 
Golden  Charter,  403 
Golf,  125,  126,401,  422 
Golf  Club,  Orkney,  125,  129 
Gomes.  Juan  de  Medina,  50,  51 
Good  Fortune  (ship),  129 

Magnus,  178 

Templars,  453 

William,  358,  359 

Gordon,  Adam,  373 

Alexander,  274 

Catherine,  267 

Elspeth,  314 

(ieorge,  89 

Hon.  Baron,  391 

James,  Aberdeen,  34 

James  of  Cairston,  90,  200, 

213,  214 

John,  373 

of  Kairston  (ship),  352 

Margaret,  314 

Miss,  214 

Patrick,  185,  214 

Principal,  60,  201,  383 

Rev.  James,  86 


Gordon,  Sir  Robert,  23 

William,   Captain  of   ther 

Castell,  214.  372 

William,  first  of  Cairston, 

214 

William,    merchant,    131,. 

214.  372 

William,  314 

Goree,  206 

Gorie,  Edward,  205 

James,  253 

Patrick,  160 

Gom,  James,  446 

Gorne,  80 

Gorseness,  Rendall,  437 

Gorthie,  81,82,  253 

Gospel  Hall,  290,  459 

Gossegair,  199,  226 

Gottenburg,  30 

Govan,  457 

Gow  the  Pirate,   106,  144,   145, 

157,  214,  279.  394 

William,  106 

Gow's  Garden,  106 

(Jraenie,  Admiral,  79 

Alexander  Sutherland,  385, 

455 

A.  M.  S.,251 

Charles,  153 

Harry,  389 

James,    Marquis  of    Mon- 
trose, 252 

Mungo,  369 

Mr,  361 

Patrick,  of  Breckness,  254 

Patrick,  of  Gra;meshall,  324 

Patrick,  yr.,  of  Graemeshall, 

248 

Patrick,  Sheriflf,  79,  387 

Grfemsav,  44,  85,  90,  94,  106,  279 
Grremeshall,  36,  40,  79,  87,  89, 

121,  248,  251 
Graham,  Anna,  139,  329 

Alexander,  104,  294 

Andrew,  244 

A.  8.,  Crown  Chamberlain, 

365,  450,  454,  455 
Bishop,  21,  22,  35.  40,  44, 

45,  74,  77,  78,  79,  82,  84,  94, 

129,   156,   180,  223,  228,  229, 

240,  245,  250,   264,  287,  306, 

331,  379 

Catherine,  250,  251,  279 

Charles,  389 

Christian,  156 

Colonel  Harry,  413 

David  of  Gorthie,  79,  81, 

224,  252,  253,  255 

George,  of  Drynie,  79 

Harry,  of  Breckness,  80,  90, 

94,  173,  182,  279,  281,  361,  362 

Isabella,  306 

James,  89,   171,   191,  223, 

341,  434 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


477 


Graham,  Jean,  190,  237 

John,  79,  80,  81,  223,  253, 

267,  288 
John,  Rector  of  Ladykirk, 

109 
Laurence,  79 

Margaret,    173,    174,    176, 

207 

Marjorie,  156 

Miss,  434 

Mungo,  79,  82,  370 

Patrick,  36,  40,  79,  81,  87, 

174,  223,  224,  237,   251,  252, 

253,  2;54,  255,  265,  269,  321, 

322,  389 

Rev.  George,  79 

Rev.  William,  445 

Robert,  176 

Thomas,  277,  293,  294,  344, 

359,     380,     381,     384,      385, 

386 

William,  R.W.M.,    Lodge 

St.  Paul's,  370 

William,  teacher,  273 

Graham's  Loft,  210,  414,  454 

Grahamstown,  224 

Grain,  106 

Grainbank,  193 

Grain  (farm),  377 

Grainshore,  374 

Grammar  School,  39,  56,  66,  175, 

193,  206,  242,  243,  245,  249, 

261-278,   345,   381,   395,    434, 

447,  449 
Grampians,  1 
Gran  Grifon  (ship),  50 
Grandison,  George,  Viscount,  28, 

94 
Grant,      Alexander,     Justiciary 

Clerk,  292 

-  -  James,  Highland  Park,  342 
Ludovick,  391 

Rev.  Alexunder,  175,   194, 

270 

Rev.  William,  208,  286 

Robert,  175,  194,  195,  22i> 

Robina,  175 

Sibilla,  272 

William,  teacher,  272,  273 

Graves,  250 

Gravesend,  301 

Gray,  John,  of  Roeberry,  320 

— —  Mulcolm,  of  Roeberry,  320 

Great  Bell  of  Kirkwall,  376 

Belt,  327 

Boat,  375 

Britain,  30 

Greenland  Whale  Fishing,  412 

Greenock,  452 

Green  toft,  358 

Greyfriars'  Church,  12,  241,  284 

Greyhound,  H.M.S.,  106 

Griffen,  Mary,  336,  337 

Grigg,  Andrew,  438 


Grimbister,  291,  320,  329 

James,  411 

Thomas.  422 

Waiiam,  87 

Groat,  Alexander  Graeme,  192 
Donald,  136,  155,  192,  231, 

407    443 
Dr,  192,  201,  207,  318,  360, 

364 

Gavin,  192 

Helen,  192 

Johan,  of  Dungalsbay,  192 

John,  of  Elsness,    38,   129, 

415 

John,  of  Hallstown,  415 

Malcolm,  192,  325,  369 

William,  130,  162,  396 

(vroat's  Garden,  364 
Grot,  Robert,  170 
Grote,  Elizabeth,  195 
Grott,  Donald,  434 

Edward,  231 

Harrie,  34 

Hew,  124 

Issobel,  433 

Malcolm,  230,  235 

Margaret,    117,   230,    236, 

241,  420 

Nicol,  124 

Thomas,  364 

William,  124 

Grotsetter,  Alexander,  167 

Thomas,  167 

Groundwater,  Isabel,  318 

James,  457 

John,  406 

Ursilla,  424 

Gruthay,  101 
(irymness,  226 
Guard  House,  286,  345 
(iuard  House  Yard,  167 
(iuid,  William,  223,  229 
(vuidbrand,  92 
(iuild,  Mr  James,  83,  265 
Guinness,  Mr,  459 
(iunn,  Agnes,  308 

Magnus,  432 

Guunhihi,  5,  6,  29 
Gustavus  Adolphus,  85 
(lUthrie,  Andrew,  406 

Mr  Patrick,  286 

Gutter  Hole,  358 
Gvda,  3 

Gyer,  Hugh,  153,  154 
Gyre,  Lands  of,  79 
(iyre,  William,  178,  420 


Haco,  King  of  Norway,  12,  50, 
60,  61,  62,  240 

VI.  of  Norway,  13 

Hack,  Edward,  459 
Hackney,  London,  352 
Haddington,  152,  194 


Hasgard,  Patrick,  365 

Haileybury,  158 

Hairt,   David,  of  Rualand,  265, 

415 
Hakon,  Earl,  59 

Haraldson,  II 

Paulson,  5,  6,  7,  8,  58 

the  Fifth,  12 

Halcro,  Barbara,  373 

Da^^d,  71 

Edward,  266 

Francis,  122,  317 

Harry,  226 

Hew,  18,  45,  80,  137,  155, 

183,  192,  22^5,  227,   235,  243, 

251,  253,  255,  308,  321,   322, 

323,  394,  415 

James,  177,  376 

Janet,  88 

Jean,  88,  90,  155,  414,  415 

Lady,  224 

Lands  of,  226 

Magnus,  124,  199 

Malcolm,  65,  226,  227 

Margaret,  137,317,394,421, 

444,  445 

Marjorie,  126,  129,  306,  330 

Nicolas,  6.1,  226 

Ninian,  227 

of  Crook,  38,  133,  181,  193, 

231,259 

Patrick,  24, 26, 209,  321,  432 

Prince  of  Denmark,  226 

Sibilla,  155,  183 

Sir  Hew,  226 

William,  101,  288 

Haldanes,  The,  181, 446, 450, 451 , 

452 
Halkland,  431 
Hall  of  Banks,  318 

of  the  Earls,  5,  7,  8 

Halliday,  Elizabeth,  285 
Hamburg,  2J)5 
Hamilton,  Alexander,  233 

Duke  of,  215, 244 

James,  297 

Hon.  Anne,  139 

Lady  Margaret,  139 

Kev.  Mr,  451 

Sheriff.  134,  395 

Sir  Rol>ert,  139,  451 

Hammermen,  403-4WJ 
Hangman's  Ladder,  343 
Harbour  Act,  378 

Street,  121-132,418 

The,  416 

Harald  the  Fair-Haired,  3,  18 

Mada«lson,  7-11,  50,  58,  59 

Harcus,  Mr  John,  452 
Hardie,  (ieorge,  135,  190 

Nicoll,  120 

Thomas,  120 

Hardinge,  Mr,  146 
Sir  Henry,  196 


Digitized  by 


Google 


478 


INDEX. 


Harray,  38,  82,  185, 189, 233, 237, 
245,  248,  250,  251,  256,  263, 
343,  363,  398,  452,  459 

Hartsyde,  Margaret,  247 

Harvie,  John,  433 

Haslar  Royal  Hospital,  337 

Hastings,  Lord,  158 

Hatston,  106 

Hay,  Adam,  426 

Father,  18 

Hercules,  428 

John,  389,  407 

John  of  Balbethan,  90,  94, 

182 

Mr,  153 

Patrick,  359 

Sir  George,  of  Kinfauns,  28, 

94 

Quintilapse  in  Orphir,  425 

Hebden,  Alfred  C,  463 

Hebe,  H.M.S.,  195 

Hebrides,  3,  12,  189 

Heddal,  Christian,  204 

Thomas,  191 

Heddell,  Thomas,  189,  191 

William,  89 

(Towuland),  186,  462 

Heddle,  Br  John,  205,  206  , 

John,  farmer,  120,  446 

John,  Town  Clerk,  205 

John,  of  Mclsetter,  206,  363 

John    George    Moodie,    of 

Melsetter,  206 

Magnus,  365 

Malcolm.  406,  463 

Misses  Margaret  and  Hen- 
rietta, 363 

P.  S.,  168,  206 

Robert,  of  Cletts,  326 

Robert,  of  Melsetter,  206 

Robert,  Pavmaster,  206 

Thomas,  120,  453 

in  Greenwall,  363 

Heilman,  Hans,  153 

Heimskringla,  400 

Heind,  Rev.  James,  47,  381,  382, 
386 

Hell,  184,  198,203 

Hempow,  136,  168,  169,  181,  395 

Henderson,  Andrew,  207,  343, 
380,  448,  455 

Barbara,  90 

Eliziil)eth,  205 

Harry,  265 

Margaret,  205 

~      Michael,  274,  345 

Rev.  Father,  67,  364 

Robert,  149 

vSebastian,  88 

Hendrie,  Hallon,  428 

Rev.  John,  265,  432 

Henrv,  Bishop,  60,  61,  62 

IV.  of  England,  16 

VIII.  of  England,  64,  65 


Henry,  Prince,  88 
Henry  son,  Beatrix,  207 

Bessie,  207 

Catherine,  394 

Cuthbert,  207 

Harry,  131 

Helen,  207 

Henry,  207 

James,  1 84 

Margaret,  184,  207 

Robert,   of  Holland,    185, 

207 

William,  51,207 

Hensbister,  250 

Hepburn,  James,  Earl  of  Both- 

well,  21,69,  93 

John,  463 

Thomas,  169,  170 

Herefordshire,  447 
Heriot's  Printing  Office,  330 
Hervi,  Bishop,  60 
Hewiflon,  Benjamin,  121 

(ieorge,  380,  463 

John,  459 

Highlanders,  42nd,  109 

Highland  Park,  342 

High  School,  Edinburgh,  271 

Street,  Edinburgh,  230 

Hill,  Andrew,  W.S.,  352 

Burton,  John,  96 

History    of    Scotland,     Laing's, 

395 
Hoilge,  Mr,  452 
Hodgson,  Bryan,  158 
Hogg,  Rev.  Mr,  448 

Rev.  Thomas,  246 

Holland   (Netherlands),    ;i2,   33, 

82,  157,  164,  176,  213,  229,  231, 

285,  296,  418 

St.  Ola,  209,   293 

— —  South  Konaldshay,  226 

Stronsay,  98,  148,  373 

Hohu,  39,  40,  75,  76,  78,  79,  81, 

88,  121,  150,  169,  185,2:^3,237. 

250, 251,  256,  263,  ;i40,362,  363 

Road,  293 

Holmes  in  Holm,  250 

Holmsound,  233 

Holy  Land,  8,  58 

Holy  rood  House.  21,  65,  86 

Holy  Sepulchre,  6 

Honyman,  Bishop,  38,  40,  52,  80, 

84,  85,  171,  190,  244,  279,  382, 

431,  435 

Euphan,  80 

(ieorge,  38,  191 

of  (4rflenisav,  85,  87,  90,  94, 

106,  193,  248,"  279,  281,  292 

Margaret,  139 

-7—  Peter,  216 

Richard,  280.  281 

Robert,  216,  389 

Sir  William,  185,  274,  396, 

397,  398 


Honyman,  William,  350,  389 
Hood,  Lord,  102,  103 
Hopkins,  Rice  S. ,  459 
Horrie,  Marrable,  435 
Hornersquoy,  106,  357,  358,  364, 

379 
Horse  Market,  348,  363 
Hotel,  St.  Ola,  124 
Hourston,  Alex.,  90 

Barbara,  315,  316 

Mr  John,  264 

Robert,  452 

William,  90 

Housby,  296 

House  of  Commons,  196 

Hanover,  217 

Houses  of  Parliament,  196 
Houston,  Peter,  65,  223,  226, 263, 

288 

Thomas,  263 

How,  214 

Howbister,  349 

Howcare  (ship),  131 

Houton  Harbour,  61 

Howe,  Lord,  327 

Hoxa,  351 

Hoy,  75,  92,  263,  288,  323,  451 

Alison,  222 

Bess,  222,  223 

Hudson  Bay  Company,  56,  214, 

215,  271 
Huip,  230,  231,  '251,  252,  255 
Hull,  149 
Hume,  David,  309 

Lord,  69 

Sir  Alexander,  99 

Huna,  234 

Hunila,  215 

Hunter  of  Nearhouse,  126 

Huntingdon,  Lady,  447 

Hunt  lie.  Earl  of,  75 

Hntton,  Jean,  420 

Thtimas,  293,  374,  375,  380, 

384 


Impkrial  Hotel,  197 

Inohture,  228 

Incorporation    of    Hammermen, 

164 

of  Taylors,  164 

Indep<>ndent  Church,  181 

India,  158 

Indian  Mutiny,  159 

Infant  School,  449 

Ingibiorg,  5 

lugisby,  James,  259 

luglis,  (ieorge,  245 

Rev.  Patrick,  47,  245,  264, 

381 
Inksetter.  John,  420 
Inkster,  Miss  Margaret,  449 
Inland  Revenue  Office,  294 
Innes,  George,  391,  392 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


479 


Innes,  Gilbert,  of  Stow,  391 

Rev.  John,  349 

Catherine,  249 

"  Inns,"  The,  123, 124,  125,  126, 
127 

Instabilly,  293 

Inverness,  12,  S.%  101,  304,  407 

Inverkip,  452 

Invershin,  81 

Ireland,  11,  51,  201,  364 

Edward,  192 

Stenness,  180,  281 

Irvine,  Barbara,  150 

Christie,  355 

Elspeth,  260 

George,  452 

Helen,  418 

Janet,  428 

Rev.  Edward,  47,  383 

William,  26, 54, 149, 150, 415 

William  de,  149 

Irvines  of  Dunn,  149 

of  Sabay,  149,  203 

Irving,  Alexander,  243 

Elizabeth,  177 

Bessie,  150 

Harry,  90 

James,  422,  438 

John,  90,  119 

Magnus,  90,  179,  453 

Marion,  225 

Marjorie,  150 

Patrick,  89,  90,  407 

Rev.  Mr,  of  Orphir,  315 

RolMjrt,  321 

Thomas,  90 

William,  185,  432 

Irvyng,  William,  214 

Isabella,  daughter  of  Earl  Mag- 
nus V.,  13 

Isbister  Mortification,  264,  269, 
278 

Isdale,  Rev.  A.,  457 

Iverach,  John,  49 

Mr,  208 


Jack,  Donald,  316 

Isobel,  421 

Joseph,  121 

Jackson,  William,  234 
Jacobite  Rebellion,  302 
Jamaica,  126,  175,  239,  292 
James  I.,  403 

II. ,  138,  422 

III.,  7,  16,  17,  18,  19,  37, 

38,  63,  93,  96,  117,  169,  230, 

261,  275,  304,  340,  403,  411 

IV.,  192,  411,  423 

v.,  20,  21,  33,  64,  65,  70, 

96,  261,  331,  349,  411 
VI.,  20,  28,  69,  70,  74,  75, 

76,  88,  93,  94,  247,  262,  384, 

404,  418,  431,  436 


James  VII.,  443 

VIII.,  249,  443 

Prince,  16 

(ship),  131,  179,  247 

Jamieaon,  Thomas,  36,  242,  387, 

388,  446 
Jeffrey,  Lord,  395 
Jerusalem,  6,  8 
Jesuits,  442 
Jofreyr,  Bishop,  60 
John,  Bishop,  62 

Harald^s  son,  12 

of  Quendale,  92 

and  Robert  (sloop)^  271 

o*  Groat*s  House,  232 

Johnson,  Colonel,  413 
Johnston,  Alexa,  280 

Alexander,  90 

Anna,  161 

Effie,  402 

Elizabeth,  280 

George,  89 

Rev.  George,  47, 318, 319, 382 

Isobel,  387 

Jolm,  38,  155 

Richard  Bempte,  280,  281 

Thomas,  191 

V/illiam,  66,  120,  153 

Jollie,  Alexander,  174 
Jomsburg  Vikings,  58,  59 
Jon  of  Athol,  Bishop,  58 
Jonas  (ship),  131 
Jonet  of  Cara,  431 
Jordan,  6,  8 

Jougs,  287,  417,  418,  430 
Junction  Road,  193,  378 


Ka.4,  Bailie,  362,  363 

James,  139,  180,  326 

John,  54,  122.  131,  177, 178, 

180,  351 

Margaret,  54,  180 

Robert,  326,  406,  407 

Kairston,  89,  90,  106,  281,  285 
Kali,  5,  6 
Keelie  Park,  402 
Keith,  Anna,  255 

Edward,  335,  338 

Margaret,  3:^,  338 

the  Historian,  78 

Kelday,  Jamea,  169,  404 

Robert,  271 

Kelday 's  Tavern,  121 

Kelly,  Miss,  400,  402 

Kemp,  Dr.,  365 

Kennedie,  John,  of  Karmenichie, 

32,  87,  153,  156 
Kennedy,  David,  265 

Jean,  235 

Mr,  Excise  Officer,  357 

Murdo,  156 

Ker,  Rev.  Andrew,  48,  310,  311, 

312,  313,  314,  441,  442 


Kerr,  Earl  of  Somerset,  22 

Kid,  Mr,  285 

Kidderminster,  Mr,  fishmonger, 
London,  188 

Kilgour,  Andrew,  34 

Kilmarnock,  188 

KUn-Hogy,  The,  127 

Kilrenny,  88 

Kilsyth,  94 

Kincaid,  Alison,  222 

David,  222,  223,  254,  265 

John,  222 

Margaret,  319 

William,  222 

Kinfauns,  94 

King,  Mr,  285 

King  Street,  400,  457 

King's  College,  85 

Passage,  195 

Yard,  208 

Kingston,  Jamaica,  126 

Kinloss,  64,  65 

Kinnaird,  E.,  Mrs  Foulzie,  228 

of  Inchture,  228 

Kinneder,  Lord,  353,  359 

Kinnoul,  Earl  of,  52,  81,  201    . 

Kirbister,  24,  75,  169,  199,  281, 
358 

Kircaldie,  Helen,  135 

Kirfia,  80 

Kirkaldy  of  Grange,  21,  69 

Kirk  Green,  107,  194,  239,  284 
to  287,  345,  465 

Kirkintilloch,  452 

Kirkier-Vagr,  4 

Kirkness,  Adam,  90 

David,  90,  175,  206,  207 

Helen,  1.35 

Hugh,  90 

James,  223 

Margaret,  175,  206 

Thomtw,  209 

Kirkness'  Land,  119 

Kirkpatrick,  Doctor,  49 

Kirkum,  Alexander,  259 

William,  259 

Kirkwall,  first  mentioned  by- 
name, 4 

in  the  Orknevs,  7,  160 

Hill,  105,  132 

Kilwinning  Masonic  Lodge, 

369,  370 

Knarston,  James,  341 

Rouaay,  262,  266 

Kniglit,  John,  131 

Knightson,  Captain,  137,222,  223 

Knocking-stone,  421 

Knox,  John,  69,  386,  422 

Kol,  5,  7,  29,  30 

Kolbein  Hruga,  58 

Kumaun,  158 

Kynaird,  Isabella,  320 

Patrick,  89 

Kyle,  60 


Digitized  by 


Google 


480 


INDEX. 


Ladykiek,  Sanday,  383 

South  Ronaldahay,  50 

Lady  Parish,  Sanday,  118,  165, 

170,  185,  208 
La  Hogue,  Battle  of,  296 
Laing,  Alexander,  394 

Gilbert,  394 

Helen,  394 

James,  131,  144,  394 

Malcolm,  35,  56,  132,  134, 

206, 207, 272, 275, 374, 394397, 

399,  445 
Malcolm  Alfred,  of  Crook, 

400 

of  Strenzie,  181 

Robert,  167,  206,  271,  394, 

395 
Samuel,  15,  110,  120,  155, 

274,  276,  277,  353,  381,  383, 

385,  400,  402,  452,  453,  456, 

457 

Street,  169,  181 

Thomas,  394 

Lai  res.  Meadows  of,  105,  293 
Lamb  of  God  (ship),  131 
Lamb,  William,  236 
Lammas  bed,  346 

brother  and  sister,  346 

Market,  344-347 

Lammermoors,  194 

Lamon,  250 

Lanark,  448 

Lanarkshire,  134,  398 

Lane  of  Mounthoolie,  181 

Lanfranc,  Archbishop,  58 

Langscale,  19,  77 

Langskaill,  Andrew,  167 

Lang  Stean,  167,  178 

Lang  Stean  Close,  395 

Lapithae,  86 

Largs,  Battle  of,  60,  61 

Laughton,  David,  318 

—     James,  34,  48,  161,  420,  446 

John,   132 

Magnus,  319,  331 

Patrick,  370 

William,  122,  164,  183,  184 

Laurence,  Roderick,  392 
Laverock,   7,  39,   64,    117,   169, 

194,   223,   225,    245,   288-365, 

377,  379 
Law,  Bishop,  24,  26,  75,  76,  77, 

93,  94,  223,  -246,  263,  384,  431 
Lawn  Market,  230 
Leask,  George,  89 
- —  Henrv,  135 

James,  380,  406 

Ricliard,  123,  124 

Leggat,  Henry,  Stewart  Depute, 

123,  424 
Leghorn,  460 
Leith,  25,  47,  65,  149,  166,  179, 

241,  295,  298,  330,  361,  432 
■ George,  34 


Leith,  Lands  of,  80 

Lennox,  Rev.  Alexander,  47,  382 

Lentron.  Thomas,  47,  170 

Lerwick,  134,  459 

Leslie,  General,  252 

Mrs,  451 

Rev.  Mr,  451 

Robert,  80,  81,  94 

and  Reid,  Messrs,  463 

Levandale,  Lord,  215 
Leven,  River,  198 
Lewisgarth,  230 
Library,  Free,  232 

Orkney,  330 

Public,  107 

Liddell,  Andrew,  46,  208,  234, 
298,  331 

Elspeth,  175,  197 

Francis,  426 

George,  38,  153,  173,  174, 

196,  340,  410 

Harry,  369 

James,  205 

of  Halkerston,  173 

Margaret,  208 

Mrs  James,  357 

Rev.  Francis,  173,  309 

Thomas,  201 

William,  127,  136, 139,  140, 

173,  174,   175,  181,  197,  268, 

317 
Lilburn,  Colonel,  248 
Ligonier,  Earl,  201 

Colonel,  304 

Frances,  201 

Linay,  Agnes,  178 

Alexander,  97,  420 

Anna,  97,  194,  339,  432 

Francis,  339 

George,  96,  97 

Isobel,  425 

James,  150,  181,  322 

Jean,  425,  428,  432 

Margaret,  432 

Oliver,  90,  96,  97,  193,  194, 

255,  339,  432 

Thomas,  126,  411 

Lindsay,  Alexander,  20,  390 

Alisonne,  227 

Catherine,  192 

Harry,  191 

Margaret,  192 

Patrick,  261 

Thomas,  131,  191,  192,  207, 

369 

William,  191,  192,  207,  231 

Lindores,  Lord,  80 
Linga,  131 
Lingrow,  124 
Linklater,  Elspeth,  426 

John,  131 

Margaret.  426 

Oliver,  m 

William,  241,433 


Linklett,  Henry,  259 

Linlithgow,  22,  229,  330 

Linnie,  Margaret,  348 

Lispund,  408 

Littleblair,  209 

Little  Park,  357 

Little  Se»,  126 

Liverpool,  149,  326 

Lloyo,  Captain,  146 

Loch,  James,  M.P.,  378 

Lodge,     Kirkwall     Kilwinniiig, 

368,  406 

Mascmic,  368, 

St.  Paul,  370 

Logie,  Alexander,  135,  137,  298, 

392 

Barbara,  176 

Gilbert,  167 

Isabelk,  135 

James  S.  S.,  M.D.,  49, 195, 

197,  356,  371 
Rev.  Dr,  47,  135,  142,  I7€u 

274,  298,  354,  356,  380,  383, 

384,  385,  457 
Logoretto,  Captain,  51 
Lombardy,  204 
London,  57,  74,   135,   149,  192, 

200,  217,  460 

and  Edinburgh    SS.   Co., 

330 

Long  Close,  119,  120 

Longfellow,  117 

Long  Gutter,  136,  169,  194 

-  Hope,  302 
Longmore,  A.  D.,  384 
Lopness,  88,  126,  297,  324,  362 
Lord  Protector,  415 

Sinclair's  Rental,  437 

Louttit,  Agnes,  54,  180 

Andrew,  380,  445,  446 

Euphan,  337 

James,  343 

Janet,  298 

John,  326 

Katheriiie,  89 

Miss,  328 

Mr  George,  461 

Mr  R.,  380 

Thomas,  41,  54,  237,  241, 

328,  329,  330 

William,  89 

Lovat,  Lord,  25 
Low  Countries,  121 

Rev.  George,  52,  70 

Lowell,  Rev.  Charles,  159 

James  Russell,  159 

Luckenbooths,  229 

Luffera,  51 

Lumisden,  Isabella,  305 

J.,  2<)9 

Lutzen.  Battle  of,  85 
Lyell,  Andrew,  N.P.,  205 

Marj ,  231 

Lymehouse,  426 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


481 


Lynzie,  97 
Lyon,  Depute,  203 

King,  201 

Mrs,  250 

Rev.  Mr,  249,  312,  434 

Lythea,  256 


Mabak,  199 
Macallister,  Collin,  369 
Macartney,  Sir  Charles,  20 
Macaulay,  T.  B.,  361,  451 

Penelope,  451 

Rev.  John,  451 

MacBeath,  George,  180,  405,  463 

Margaret,  208 

M'Crain,  Gillouir,  189 
Macdonaid,     John,     Bishop    of 

Nicopolis,  364 

Rev.  David,  364 

MacEwen,  Mr  John,  278 
Macfarlane,  Mr,  342 

Rev.  Dr,  364 

Macgillivray,  William,  292 

Mac^owan,  Mr,  271 

Mackay,  Captain,  397,  399,  400 

Hntcheon,  23 

James,  368 

Robert,  330,  331 

Mackenzie,  Alexander,  85 
Bishop,  47,  52,  85,  86,  87, 

88, 133,  135,  183,  192,  200,  210, 

215,  266,   279,  288,  306,  362, 

380,  382,  441 

Captftin,  189 

Colonel,  212 

Elizabeth  Annie,  192 

Jean,  87 

James,  45,  97,  301,  344 

John  of  Gairloch,  85 

Lady  Anne,  230 

Marjorie,  87,  155 

Margaret,  208,  210,  212, 215 

Mary,  200 

Murdoch,  193,  270,  300,  390 

Mr  Donald,  270 

of  Groundwater,  194 

Rev.  Mr,  452 

Robert,  428 

Sibilla,  212,  282 

Sir  Alexander,  88 

Thomas,  130,  204,  380 

William,  210,  282,  288 

M*Kindlay,  William,  131 

James,  179 

Mackintosh,  W.  R.,  330 
Maclean,  William,  337 
Macleod,  Lord,  217 
MacLeod  of  Assynt,  81 

Mr  Robert,  268 

Maclellan,  Robert,  98 

Sir  Samuel,  98,  182 

Maclelland,  David,  131,  138,  266, 

330 


Maclelland,  Robert,  200 
Maconnochie,  Sheriff,  110 
MTherson,  Andrew,  330 

Deacon,  275,  404,  405 

John,  330 

M'Queen,  Doagald,  316 

Robert,  Lord  Braxfield,  279, 

280 
Macrae,  Alexander,  151 

John,  143 

&  R/ibertaon,  Messrs,  193 

Maddad,  Earl  of  Athol,  7 

Madras,  196,  338 

Maey,  199 

Magdalen  of  France,  65 

Magnus,  Earl,  Angus  Line,  12 

III.  of  Norway,  13 

IV.,  12,61 

v..  Earl,  12,  13,  61 

Barefoot,  5 

Erlendson,  667 

Maine,  Thomas,  361 

William,  51 

Mainland,  Isabella,  180 

James,  336 

Patrick,  180 

Mains,  Laird  of,  256 
Maitland,  Sir  John,  93 
Mairch,  Mary,  359 
Malcolm  of  Scotland,  4 

John,  109 

Rev.  Mr,  109 

Rev.  William,  109 

Malcolmsou,  Captain  J.,  201 
Malise,  Earl,  13 
Man,  Isle  of,  3,  12 
Maun,  Rev.  Father,  364 
Manson,  James,   179,   181,   184, 

198,  340,  434 

John,  319 

Mary  Balfour,  198,  201 

William,  198,  325,  341 

Manuel,  Emperor,  8 
Mar,  Earl  of,  18,  180,  249 

and  Kellie,  70,  112,  232 

Margaret  of  Athol,  7,  8 

Maid  of  Norway,  50,  61 

Marischal  College,  80,  271 
Marjori banks,  David,  134 
Market  Cross,  130,  249,  250, 287, 

362,  370,  430,  432 
Markinch,  278 
Marking  Iron,  363 
Marlborough,  Duke  of,  121,  443 
Marseilles,  65 
Marsetter,  Anne,  431 

Margaret,  431 

Marston  Moor,  251 
Martin,  Mr,  188,  189 
Martyn,  Captain,  R.N.,  184 

John, 184 

Marwick,  David,  113,  338,  378, 

463 
Magnus,  90 


Marwick,  Sir  James,  96,  197,  33S 
Marwick's  Hole,  30,  50,  90,  173, 

357,  426,  427,  443 
Mary  of  Guise,  20,  21 
Mason,  Arthur,  343 

Magnus,  40 

Masonic  Hall,  107,  366,  406 

Masons'  Marks,  366 

Masters  of  Kirkwall  Kilwinning. 

371 
Matches,  William,  338 
Mathison,  Mr,  91 
Mauritio,  Captain,  51 
Maxwell,  Bishop,  32,  33,  42,  64, 

68,331 

Bishop  of  Ross,  85 

Edward,  131 

George,  185 

James,  144,  178,  179,  375, 

Malcolm,  421 

Mr,  164 

Peter,  142 

Rev.  John,  307 

Mayfair,  200 

Mayo,  Lord,  158 

Meall,  79,  251 ,  253. 254, 255, 256 

Meason,  Gilbert,  36,  90, 394, 430, 

433 

James,  407 

Marion,  209 

Marjorie,  407 

Meal  House,  352 
Mediterranean,  229 
Meeting-house,  245,  288,  434 
Meil,  D.,  373,  458 
Melbourne,  459 
Meldrum,  William,  368 
Melsetter,  78,  79,  87,  90,  94,  131, 

145,  176,  216,  231,  239 
Melville  of  Anstruther,  51 

Castle  (ship),  451 

Menai  Strait,  5 
Menes,  Egilshay,  185 
Menzies,  David,  62 

William,  W.S.,  89,  94,  182 

Merchiston,  68,  94 
Mercury,  H.M.S.,  326 
Methven,  251 
Middleton,  Captain,  220 

Earl  of,  244 

Middlesex,  169 
Midhouse,  Evie,  265 

Margaret,  435 

Thomas,  131 

Midlothian,  13 
Midtown,  169,  224,  377 
Mid  Yell,  166 
Mill  of  Pabdale,  394 

Square,  400 

Street,  400 

Millar,  Archibald,  295 

Harry,  244 

Isobel,  337 

James,  101 

3Q 


Digitized  by 


Google 


482 


INDEX, 


Millar,  Lieutenant  James,  36() 

John,  lo2 

John  I).,  453 

Robert,  111,  112,  3.57,  4(Ki 

Thomas,    Lord    Advocate, 

291 
Millfield,  147 
Milne,  A.,  381 

Sir  Rol»ert,  182 

Miners,  146 

Mitchell,  A.,  197,  306,  32r> 

John,   113,   197,  3()6,  380, 

455,  4()3,  465 

Square,  197 

William,  438 

Mitchel8(m,  i:^ 
Moad,  (leorge,  241 
Moar,  Jamc:*,  90 
William,  90 

Moir,  Magnus,  38,  42,  178 

Thomas,  178 

Moncrieff,  Anna,  88,  126,  236 

Harhara,  126,  190,  209 

David,  38,  43,  45,  101,  122, 

125,   12(5,    171,   172,   184,  190, 
2t)3,  224.  241,  261,  375,  418 
David,  Advocate,  203 

HaiTy,   101,   125,   181,  203, 

351,  389 

Jean,  126,  210 

James,  90 

Lady, 125 

Margaiet,  119,  120 

Mrs,  203,  418 

Rev.  Sir  Harry,  364 

Sir  ThomaH,  125,  203 

Thomas,  126 

William,  126 

Sir  William,  204 

Monk,  (leneral,  83,  382 
Monmouth,  Duke  of,  284 
Monro,  Andrew,  187,  273 

Colonel,  107 

Colonel  Robert,  136 

Miss,  187 

Monschaw,  Captain,  376 
Monteith,  Margaret,  243 

Helen,  281 

Marie,  189 

Marion,  261 

Marjorie,  243 

Mary,  243 

of  Belelly,  80 

Patrick,  89,  189,  242,  243, 

253  266 

RolKjrt,  25,  46,  80,  81,  150, 

223,  243,  254,  2(52 

William,  189,  243 

Montrose,  Marquis  of,  62,  79,  81, 

82,  83,  118,  200,  215,  339,  382, 

413 

(town)  232,  461 

Monzie,  56,  193 
Moodie,  Adam,  78 


Mooilie,  ('rtj)tain  HiMijamtn,  217, 

218,  219,  220,  248,  29<5,  :I24, 
3-25,  32(5 

Janies,  78,  79,  JK),  94,  145, 

176,  182,  214,  -231,  2;«>,  323, 
324 

Francis,  78,  79,  131 

(iill)ert,  78 

Henrietta,  326,  3(53 

John,  R.X.,  195 

Margaret,  363 

Thomas,  315 

William.  78 

Moose  Factory,  56 
Morav,  Earls  of,  66,  93 

Ib'irth,  140 

See  of,  18,  85,  86,  140 

Morayshire,  64,  188,  337,  420 
More,  John,  418 
Morgan,  A.  M.,  193 
Morrison,  James,   132,   178,  195, 

219,  380,  432 

Margaret,  194,  195,  196 

Rev.  Francis,  82,  2<51 

Rev.  James,  82,  261 

IJev.  Mr,  444 

Robert,   178,  194,  195,  196, 

22:^,  -225,  298,  441,  442 

Morristcm,  244 

Mort  Brod,  359 

Morton,  Earl  of,  28,  42,  69,  80, 
84,  94,  1(36,  122,  123,  128,  164, 
191,193,207,208,210,211,213, 
217,  -220,  224,  244,  254,  264, 
316,  :i20,  321,  :«2,  340,  383, 
384,  4(m,  410,  411,413,  415 

Earl's  house  in  Kirkwall,  90 

Moul  Head,  286 

Mounthoolie,  197,  198 

Lane  of,  140 

Mount,  The,  121,  122,  123,  167, 
416 

Mowat,  Alexander,  N.P.,  145 

(leorge,  of  Pow,  40,  71,  208, 

133,  135,  317 

Jean,  176 

James  P.  F.,  387 

John,  175,  176 

Margaret,  2(>4,  330,  331 

of  Swenzie,  90,  155 

Rev.  Hugh,  175,  176,  288 

William,  89 

Mowbray,  Harry,  332 

John,  332 

Margaret,  332 

Matthew,  318,  331,  332,  348 

Muat,  Alexander,  45,  97 
Mudie,  Adam,  227,  328 

Barbara,  200 

Donald,  321 

Elspeth,  358 

Francis,  200,  321,  322,  323, 

361,  435 
George,  47,  263,  264 


I  Mudie,  Jean,  176,  177 

of  Snelsetter,  156 

'  William,  90.  176,  190,  226, 

I      '227,   '241.   -2(57,  320,  321,  322, 
'      323,  377,  433 

I    William,  Sulwlean,  288 

I  Muddisdale,  1(M5,  2.37 

Mudiscjuoy,  344,  377 
'  Muir,  Andrew,  452 
I  James,  452 

John,  402 

Messrs,  (ireenock,  460 

Roliert,  36(5 

,  Stephen,  ^36,  457 

William,  188 

j  Muire,  Alexander,  227 

Muirhead,  349 
'  Munro,  Andrew,  369,  370 

Murkle,  Laird  of,  324 

Munquhanny,  19J),  2(K) 

Murray,  Arthur,  286,  287,  331, 
332,  333,  334,  363,  407,  4'26 

(Jatherine,  358 

C:iara,  329 

Cohmel  Thomas,  218 

Karl  of,  236 

Francis,  97,  178,  247,  319 


Isobel,  215,  333,  335 

James,    71,    135,    330,  339, 

358,  438 

Joiui,  380,  397 

Margaret,  70,  236 

Mrs,  380 

of  Haddon,  182,  230 

of  Noup,  181 

of  TullieUrdine,  69 

Patrick,  97,  193,  194,  235, 

291,  292,  317,  3'20,  329,  330, 

339 

Robert,  44,  61,  434 

Samuel,  242,  388 

Sir  Patrick,  309 

Thomas,  329 


Nairn  (town),  302,  303 

Francisca,  2;i0 

Napier  of  Merchiston,  18,  28,  68, 

94 
Naples,  Bav  of,  360 
National  Bank,  288,  354 
Neill,  Thomas,  197,  446     • 
Nennerschaw,  214 
Nepal,  158 
Nesting,  193,  270 
Nestow,  Rendall,  2(55 
Neukatineuks,  358,  364,  379 
Newark,  Deerness,  362 

in  the  Yards,  23,  73,  75 

Sanday,  52,  90,  94, 126,  130, 

412 
New  Church,  395 
Newcastle,  149,  176,  197,  450 
Newgair,  James,  41,  326 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


483 


Newhouse,  238  | 

New  Year's  Ba',  465 

Nicolas,  Cardinal,  29 

NicoUis,  ship,  131 

Nicolsoii,  James,  34,  54,  310,  359 

Jean,  357 

Margaret,  360  , 

Robert,    54,    56,    118,    318, 

319,  359,  371,  419,  435 
Sheriff,   134,  201,  202,  206,  | 

207,  -226,  235,  336,  358,  359,  i 

360,  385,  454 

Street,  2^)4,  364 

Ursiilla,  56  I 

Niger,  206  | 

Nisbet,  Rev.  Alexander,  48,  290, 

395  I 

Anna,  296  ! 

David,  231 

Gilbert,  169,  306 

Harry,  126,  410 

Rev.  James.  306 

James,   110,  290,  291,  306, 

425 

Rev.  John,  315 

John,    121,    126,    133,   181, 

236,  237,  306,  307,  314 

Katherine,  of  Egilshay,  243 

Mary,  307 

Mrs,  291 

Rev.  William,  126,  291,  292 

Sir  John,  28,  ^H 

Nisbets,  Orkne\ ,  290 
Nisthouse,  410 " 
Nixon,  Mr,  architect,  91 
Noltkud,  Bu'  of,  199 

Castle,  200 

Lands  of,  199 

Nore,  296 

Norfolk,  H.M.S.,  352 

Norie,  John,  4ii2 

Norrie  &  Company,  390 

Norsemen,  2,  3,  4 

North  Berwick,  229,  431 

North  brook,  Lord,  158 

North  Pole  Mission,  364 

North  Ronaldshay,  131, 156, 189, 

218,219,220,247,  451 
North  of  Scotland  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company,  118 
Nortli  Sea,  3 
North  Strynzie,  135 
Northern  *Burghs,  136,  232 
Northumbria,  108 
Norway,  3,  5,  10,  12,  29,  59,  131, 

157,  241,408 
Nor'-West,  271 
Norwicli,  459 
Notredame,  05,  fH) 


Oag,  Dunca!i,  428 
Oakham  pt(m,  338 
Gates,  Titus,  443 


Gchiltree,  Lord,  408 
Octred,  199 
Gdin,  4,  135 
Ggilvie,  Elizabeth,  350 
Gily  House,  413 
Glaf  of  Denmark,  15 

the  Holy,  4,  160 

Tryggvison,  4 

Glaus,  Archbishop,  62 

Gld  Manse,  381  to  387 

Gldcnburg,  18 

Gld  (inard  House,  178 

Gld  CJuanl  House  Yard,  167 

Gmond,  Barbara,  420 

George,  56,  121,   186,  193, 

201 

(ieorge,  Ensign,  201 

Rev.  Dr.  John,  56.  179,  193, 

385 

Dr.  Robert,  56,  193,  194 

Gr  (river).  198,  199 

Grcades,  1 

Grcadia,  s.8.,  464 

Orcadian,  330 

Grchard,  Thomas,  177,  376 

Grohardson,  R()l)ert,  270 

Grdnancc  Gffice,  416 

Grem,  Miss  (Mrs  Scollav),  269, 

270 

William,  269,  281,  282,  314 

Mrs  William  (Jean  Black), 

314 
Orem'a  Fancy,  Stronsay,  270 
Original  Seceders,  453,  457 
Orkney,  Duke  of,  21 

Golf  Club,  125,  129 

Hall,  Jamaica,  175 

Hera/d,  204 

Hospital,  356 

Presbytery,  364 

and  Shetland  Chronicle,  109 

Volunt^jers,  203,  416 

and  Zetland  Association,  338 

Orm,  9 

Orphir,  6,  20,  56,  75,  80,   101, 

144,   148,   150,   169,  273,  362, 

382.  428,  429 

Manse,  291 

Grquil,  2t)9,  2<)3 

Ortson,  Ollave,  123 

Osmund w<ill,  4,  324 

Osulf,  199 

Otaheitc,  333 

Ottar  the  Dane,  199 

Outran),  373 

Gversauday,52, 133, 190. 224, 237 

Overacapa,  330 

Overmear,  Clara  Van,  88,  89 

Gxendon  Chapel,  446 

Gxvoe,  124 

Gyce,  2,  3,  4,  5,  20,  31,  119,  121, 

126.   133,    135.    136,   183,   189, 

197,  225,  226,  2:^7,  245,  ^44, 

372,  374,  375,  394 


Pabdalk,  2,  79,  96,  105,  118,  124, 
126,  134,  137,  139,  181,  237, 
238,  276,  379,  394402,  412,  445 

Burn  of,  400,  414 

Milldam,  395 

Pacock,  298 

Palace  Rtrnd,  452 

Street,  279,  283,  345 

Palace  Yard,  451 

Pal  lad i  us,  1 

Palnatoki,  58 

Pandora,  H.M.S.,  333 

Papa,  2 

Sound,  131,  166 

Stronsay,  4,  119,  124,  251 

Westray,  38,  199,  231 

Paplay,  2,  80,  343 

Barlmra,  173 

Captain  Robert,  412 

Elizabeth,  137 

(ieorge,  188 

Helen,  87 

John,  221 

Magnus.  95,  144,  149,  174 

Stephen,  181 

William,  120 

Paris,  66,  201 

Scots  College  in,  383 

Park,  Anne,  197 

Jane,  197 

Little,  379 

Parliament  Ch'se,  95,  179 

H»)use,  95 

Paterson,  Alexander.  UK),  137, 142 

(Covenanter),  284,  285 

I David,  275,  276,  277 

Rev.  Dr.,  201.  445-449,  450, 

453 

William,  137»  142 

Patrick  (Bishop).  62 

Patricio,  Captain,  50,  56 

Patten,  W.,  193 

Patton,  Mr,  380,  405 

Paul,  Earl,  5,  58 

Hakonsson,  6,  7 

Rev.  Mr,  449 

Pavis,  John,  89 

Peace,  David  B,,  207 

(ieorge,  453 

&  Low,  213,  225 

W.  B.,  wood  merchant,  366 

l»rovo8t,  Sm 

T.  S.,  architect,   113,  168, 

206,  319,  3(U),  459 

William,  publisher,  204 

Peel,  Sir  Rol>ert,  296 

Viscount,  101 

Peerie  Sea,  3.  12(J.  136,  140,  206. 
213,  '225,  2:^7,  '242,  358,  395, 
402 

Pentland  Ferry,  192 
—  Firth,  20,  -22,  29,  39,  61,  62, 
81, 104,  156,  200,  213,  232,  233,. 
234 


Digitized  by 


Google 


484 


INDEX. 


Penny  lands,  42,  135 
Perry,  Sir  E.,  57 
Perth,  24,  81,  336,  357 
Peter,  Apostle,  74 

Bishop,  61 

Peterhead,  146 

Peterkin,   Sheriff,    22,   64,    109, 
138,    185,  275,  277,  397,  398, 
402,  453 
Peter's  Pence,  61 
Petrie,  George,  49,  113,  181,380, 
394 

Isobel,  433 

Mary,  402 

David,  Factor  for  Gnemes- 

hall,  361 

Rev.  Peter,  455,  457 

Robert,  446 

Peyron,   Count  Adrian  de,  158, 

159 
Pharay,  38,  199,  200 
Pickaqiioy,  119,  344,  377 
Picts,  3 
Pier,    Kirkwall,    132,    140,   370, 

396 
Pierowall,  177,  351 
Pierson,  Rev.  William,  199 
Pillans,  Professor,  278 
Piper's  House,  149 
Pipersquoy,  357,  379 
Pirate,  Gow,  136 
Pine,  Mr,  272,  452 
Pitcairne,  Archibald,  145 

Rev.  Mr,  88 

Pittencrieff,  199 

Place  of  the  Yards,  23,  27,  60, 

70,91 
Plantations  in  America,  292 
Pluscarden,  254 
PoUexfen-,  Henry.  214,  215 

Miss,  372,  380 

Rev.  John  H.,  373 

Thomas,  215,  271,  275,  293, 

371,  380,  384,  385,  386,  456 

Poison,  Christian,  363 

Poor  House,  160-164,  187,  188 

Close,  164,  458 

Pope,  Alexander,  436 

Rev.  Mr,  156 

Porterfield,  Isobel,  221 

Portobello,  135 

Portsoy,  383 

Post-Oifice,  222,  232 

Old,  294 

Pottinger,  Barbara,  183 

Edward,  131,  335,  357 

Elspeth,  129 

Janet,  358 

John,   120,   131,  265,  335, 

435 

Magnus,  183,  336 

Marable,  335 

Marion,  335 

of  Hobbister,  133,  135 


Pottinger,  Peter,  334 

Robert,   32,   97,    178,  241, 

331,  367,  358,  363,  379 

William,  165,  357 

Pottuiger's  Yard,  126 
Powell,  Major  Henry,  414 
Prague,  49 

Presbytery  (North  Isles),  373 
Preston,  H.M.S.,  79 
Pretender,    133,   217,   249,   305, 

326 
Priest,  A-,  193 
Prince,  Catherine,  230 

Edward,  230 

Harie,  230,  231,  251,  416 

Helen,  230,  424 

Magnus,  198,  230,  231,  251 

Patrick,  117,  198,  209,  230, 

241,328 
Prince  Regent,  (Jeorge,  134 
Pringle,  Rev.  Mr,  446,  447 

Robert,  277,  352,  453 

Privy  Council,  24,  286 
Protector,  Lord,  84 
Protestors,  453,  457 
Protestors'  Church,  458 
Provostrie,  '^,  230,  234,  237 
Pundlar  Process,  407 
Purgatory,  184,  198 
Puritans,  414 


QUANTERNESS,  309,  462 

Quebec,  213,  327 

Qneen  Anne,  313,  363,  436,  441, 

443 
Margaret  of  Denmark,  Nor- 
way ard  Sweden,  15 
Margaret,    wife    of    James 

III.,  17,  63 

Mary  of  Guise,  20,  21 

Mary  of  Scots,  21,  66,  67, 

69,  70,  95,  182,  198,  199,  226, 

349,  395,  418 

Mary  II.,  210 

Street,  178,  400 

Hotel,  120,  121 

Quendale,  Rousay,  92 

Shetland,  39,  109,  243 

Quoyangrie,   \05,  195,  317,  379, 

380  387 
Quoybanks,  105,  245,   317,  318, 

357,  358,  379 
Quoybarnets,  250 
Quoyloo,  452 
Quoys,  St  Catherine's,  105,  155, 

165,  167 
St.  Ola,  98,  396,  398 


Rack  WICK,  199 
Rae,  Dr.,  56,  57 

Mr,  134,  396400 

Rafn,  8 


Rait,  450 
Ralph,  Bishop,  68 
Ramparts,  121132,  144,  249 
Ramsay,  Allan,  305 

General,  158 

David,  452,  460 

Ranken,  B.  M.,  P.-F.,  295,  372 
Rapness,   38,   81.   97,  125,  203, 

204 
Rattray,  James,  309 
Raveuscraig,  17,  18 
Raynuir,  178 
Read,  Alexander,  38 

John,  38 

Redford,  Alex.,  270,  271,  272 
Redland,  293 

Thomas,  348 

Reid,  Bishop,  30,  39,  64-68,  160, 

162,  225,  227,  229,  242,  250, 

261,271,307,331,414 

George,  201 

John,  64,  160, 164,  186, 193, 

200,  242,  388 

Margaret,  193 

George,  56,   193,  245,  270, 

292 

James,  48,  184,  432 

Robert,  364 

Rosa,  193 

Samuel,  of  Braebuster,  167, 

183.  194,  232 

William,  459 

Reidpest,  Bailie,  95 

Relief  Society,  342 

Rendall,  38,  82,   189,  226,  231, 

462 

Alexander,  259 

Anna,  174 

Anne,  207 

Arthur,  425 

George,  298,  330 

John,  259,  336 

Magnus,  404 

Mitchell,  38,  119,  120,  126 

Nicol,  38 

Oliver,  259 

Thomas,  174,  259 

William,  174,  219,  237,  314 

Witch,  256 

Rennibister,  106,  320 
Ren  wick,  Rev.  Mr,  448 
Resolution,  H.M.S.,  332 
Resting  Dyke,  358,  379 
Retailers  of  Spirits,  unlicensed, 

393 
Revenge  (ship),    106,   107,    144, 

157 
Rhynie,  383 
Richan,  Barbara,  361 

Capt.  William,  R.N.,  178, 

351,  352,  355,  358 

Catherine,  348 

Elspeth,  298,  299,  329 

Esther,  308,  352 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


485 


Richan,  George,  98,204, 211, 212, 
250,  351,  358 

Helen,  297,  357 

Isobel,  358 

James,  298 

Jean,  298,  316,  349 

John,   101,  241,  297,  330, 

344,  350,  418,  436 

Margaret,  180,  350,  351 

Mary,  352 

Robert,  54,  71,   117,    180, 

346,  348,  350,  351,  357,  358, 
363,  379,  433 

Richardson,  David,  247 

Rev   Edward,  80,  83,  265 

Thomas,  68,  199 

Richieson,  James,  150 
Riddoch,  George,  210 
James,  213,  214,  288,  390, 

391,  392,  397,  400 
John,  46,  102,  103,  107,  147, 

148,  164,  245,  271,  434 

Margaret,  215 

Mary,  215 

Ridland,  George,  90 

Hugh,  90 

Ridgeland,  97,  194,  195 
Rigcs,  Capt.,  R.N.,  296 
Rind,  Etlward,  172,  357 
Ring  of  Odiu,  214,  398,  399 
Ritch,  Elizal)eth,  291 
Ritchie,  Anne,  351,  358 

Bailie,  299 

David,  306 

George,  38,  133,  190,  248 

Marion,  96,  97,  339 

Rev.  Ebenezer,  453 

William,  426 

Rizzio,  David,  349 
Road  Act,  Orkney,  375 
Robert  I.  (Bruce),  12,  13,  18 

II.,  16 

III.,  16 

Robert  (ship),  131 
Robertson,  Capt.  George,  464 

Corporal,  337 

George,  113,  167,  401,  452, 

463 
Janet,  281,  428 

Margaret,  420 

of  Lyking,  328 

Sheriff  Gordon,  465,  466 

Sheriff  James,  92,  203,  221, 

356,  371,  465 

William,  150 

Robinson,  Captain,  R.N.,  301 
Robinsone,  Roger,  432 
Rochelle,  264 
Rochester,  74 
Roeberry,  351 
Roger,  Bishop,  58 
Rognwald  Bnisison,  4-7,  160 
Kolson,  6-11,  29,  31,  36,  49, 

50,  58,  59,  92,  160 


Rognwald  of  Moeri,  3 
Rome,  61 
Ronaldshay,  North,  39 

South,  10, 61,  78,  83,  88, 100, 

142,  155, 180,  205, 231, 256, 343 
Ronaldsvoe,  60,  226 
Rose,  Henry,  191 
Roslin,  18 

Chapel,  18 

Ross,  Alexander,  417 

Andrew,  90.  94,  107,  148, 

182,  191,  217,  218,  219,  220, 
231,232,326,369 

George,   103 

Grizel,  187 

John,  178 

Peter,  364 

Sir  Charles,  103,  192 

Sir  John,  57 

William,  39,  85,  124,  154 

Rossmyre,  106 
Rothis,  Earl  of,  66 
Rothiesholm,  79,  121,  255,  336 
Rotterdam,  32,  34,  376 
Rousay,  7,  38,  158,  177,  218,  235 
Rousay  and  Egilshay,  164 
Rowisquoy,  105,  380,  394 
Rowsay,  Katherine,  215 

Mary,  348 

Royal  Asylum,  Edinburgh,  461 
Roxburgh,  96 
Ruskholm,  351 
Rusland,  Alexander,  446 

John,  445 

Russell,  Admiral,  327 

Alexander,  143 

James,  surgeon,  396 

Christian,  186,  288 

Rutherford,  Rev.  John,  47,  385 

William,  336 

Ruthven,  48 

Rye  House  Plot,  443 
Ryssay,  320,  324 


Sabay,  97,  105,  121,  150,  161 
Sabiston,  Anne,  153 

Birsay,  173 

John,  121,  376 

Saga,  226 

Sailing  Packets,  464 
Sailors'  Loft,  326 
Saint  Augustine,  262 

Barbara,  39,  68,  198,  203 

Catherine,  39,  68,  199,  223 

Christopher,  39,  68,  307 

Columba,  139,  304 

Duthac,  39 

James,  39 

John,  39,  68.  228,  241,  261, 

329 

Lawrence,  39,  227 

Magnus,  7,  29,  33,  39,  49, 

62,  68,  86,  160,  437 


Saint  Mary,  39 

Ninian,  39 

Peter,  39,  243,  245,  246 

Salvator,  39,  64,  226 

Sunniva,  61 

Salvation  Army,  459 
Sampsone  (ship),  120,  131,  348 
Sanday,  19,  20,  38,  63,  68,  118, 

126,  129,   149,  170,  205,  208, 

214,  218,  219,  226,  230,  297 
Sanders,  Edward,  135 

John,  223 

Sandilands,   Marjorie,  214,  372. 

373 

of  Calder,  18 

Sandison's  Land,  119 
Sands,  Mr,  295,  380 

Rev.  Mr,  248,  249 

The,  133.  136,  242,  339 

Sandside,  146,  289 

Sand  wick,  75,  79,  80,  83,   189, 

251,  256,  329,  340,  363 
Sang  School,  39,  227,  262 
Sanquhar,  382 
Sarmath,  366 
Sauchiebum,  19 
Sauray,  Colonel,  414 
Saverock,  98,  106 
Saviskail,  38 
Saxouy,  85 
Scalloway,  23,  332 

Castle,  23,  73 

Scapa,  8,    10,  61,  86,  105,    197. 

293 

Pier,  379 

Rowl,  358,  364 

Road  Quarry,  352 

Scar,  336 

Scart,  William,  410 

Scarth,  Elizabeth,  383 

James,  193,   194,  273,  329, 

383 

Janet,  142 

Robert,  92,  194,    364,  371, 

380 
School  Board,  365 

Charity,  400 

(Uaitness,  365 

Grammar,  261-278 

Place,  400 

Wynd,  242,  326,  366,  378 

Sclaitt,  Nicol,  259 

William,  259 

Sclaiter,  Alexander,  27 

(Jilbert,  95 

James,  446 

John,  95,  238 

Robert,  410 

William,  38 

Sclater,  Hugh,  392 
Scollay,  Arthur,  294 

Barbara,  118 

David,  95 

Edward.  119,  182,  331,  377 


Digitized  by 


Google 


486 


INDEX. 


Scollay,  Helen,  142,  179 

James,  118 

Jean,  800,  341 

John,  126,  269,  270,  300 

Mirgaret,  118 

of  Hunton,  3(J0 

of  Oilness,  176 

of  Tofts,  118 

Peter,  126 

Robert,  38,  118 

William,  133,  134,  144 

Seollay's  Inn,  134 

Land,  119 

Scone,  77,  253 

Scot,  Dame  Janet,  244 
Scotland,  12,  17,  18,  20,  33,  51, 
83,  87 

Wells,  444 

Scots'  CcJlege,  Paris,  201 

Magazine,  386 

Scotscraig,  180 

Scott,  Alexr..  65,  226,  229 

Finsign,  201 

-John,  342,  463 

Katherine,  316 

Marjorie,  312 

Michael,  180 

Mrs,  316 

of  (iihlieston,  179,  182 

Oliver,   128,  341,  342,  378, 

446   455 

Rev.  Dr.  Hew,  395 

Rev.  Oliver,  342 

Rev.  William,  315,  316,  449 

Robert,  1(54 

Sarah,  316 

Sir  Walter,  73,  83,  87,  91, 

133,    134,   135,   229,  346,  3ai, 

39S,  399 

William,  316 

Scott ie,  MagiuiR,  259 
Seaforth,  Lord,  254 
Scatter,  Andrew,  407 

David,  27,  34,  45,  47,  191, 

239,  420,421,435 

Fann,  2(m,  293 

James,  34 

Jean,  431 

-  -■  Margaret,  209 
Semphill  at  Culloden,  304 
Serrano,  Captain,  51 
Servanus,  1,  2 
Shakespeare,  198 
Shannon,  Lawrence,  128 
Shapinsav,  39,  75,  79,   146,  180, 

189,  290,  291,  298,371,  407 
Shaw,  Rev.  Mr,  86 
Sharp,  Walter,  271 
Sharpe,  Archbisliop,  83,  84,  247 
Shearer,  (leorge,  121 
James,    189,  270,  352,  355, 

364,  371,  463 

John,  253 

Lawrence,  445 


I  Shearer,  Peter,  contractor,  314, 

I      463 

;  Shed,  The,  164 

j  Sheep- ruing,  462 

'  Siieerness,  296 

Shepherd,  Sir  Samuel,  309 

Shetland.  6,   10,   12,   15,   17,  21, 
39,  61,  78 

Shilpes,  Rev.  John,  139,  236,  266, 
267 

Shin  River,  432 

Ship  Inn,  133,  135 

Shireff,   Charles,    293,  294,  352, 
353,^354,  3,55,  380,  384, 454,  455 

Shore,  117-121,  133,  168,402 

Short,  Mr.  270 

Sibl)ald,  Sir  Robert,  243 

Sierra  Leone,  56,  20>6 

Sigurd  I.,  K-irl,  3,  18 

IL.  Earl,  4 

Buison,  59 

Magnuson,  5.  6 

Simpson,  James,  273,  274 

William,  380 

Sinclair,  Arthur.  78,  155,  362 

Beatrix,  330,  331 

David,  32,  266 

(Jeorge,  178.  274,  ;«2,  323, 

343.  420 

(Jeorge,  M  D.,  452 

(Jertrude,  124 

(iilbert,  185,  186,  235,  240 

Henry,  95.  227 

Henry,  Ix)rd  Sinclair,  123 

Hew,  185,  243.  320 

J.,  Bookbinder,  193 

James,  20,  41,  78,  89,  110, 

124,   150,   154,  321,  330,  342, 

391,  435 

Jean,  421 

John,    150,    183,   266,   343, 

415,  445 

Henry,  149 

I^wrence  of  Aith,  179 

Lieutenant  Robert,  201 

Lieutenant  William,  207 

Lord,  304 

Magnus,  124,  150 

Margaret,  79 

Marjorie,  26 

Marv,  286 

Nicol,  95 

Olive,  123 

Oliver,  20,  21 

of  Brugh,  235 

of  (/ampston,  415 

Clumlie,  119 

of  Essenquoy,  170,  182,  185, 

186,  239,  240 

of  Freswick,  156,  192,  325 

Mr,  Town  Clerk,  458 

Mr,  Ness,  415 

Mr,  Quendale,  39,  181,  209, 

243,  'J55 


f  Sinclair,  Mr,  Salwiy,  79,  113,  185, 
322,  323.  415 

Mr,  Tolhop,  150 

Warsetter,  19,  50,  206 

Rolwrt,  121 

Sir  Alexr.,  68 

Rev.  William,  457 

Sir  David,  of  Swenlwucht,  123 

Sir  James,  of  Maey,  98,  153, 

154 

Sir  William,  of  Maey,  154 

William,  Earl  of  Caithness, 

123 

William,  Earl  of  Orkney,  17 

William,  Eday,  149 

I William,  253 

I  Sikandarbagh,  159 

I  Skethaway,  Rol)ert,  365 

I  Peter,  446 

,  Sir  Joseph  Banks  (packet),  277, 
360 

I  Simpson,  Mr  James,  274 

Mr  John,  273 

Sir  Patrick's  (irave,  251 

Siward,  190,  198 

Skaill,  79,  80,  175,  176,  329 

in  Deorness,  132 

Skene,  Catherine,  130 

Skellat  Bell,  268 

Skelton,  Lieut.  Jeremiah,  207 

Skibo,  232 

Slater,  Charles,  295,  386 

Thoma.s  H.,  207 

Thomas,  40() 

William,  159 

Sloan,  William,  459 
Slorach,  Rev.  Father,  364 
Smith,  Alexander,  241 

Andrew,  194,  336,  337 

Barbara,  208 

Donald,  326 

(Jeorge,  38,  138,    186,   194, 

265,  321,  322 

James,  193,  336 

John,  119,288 

Smith,  Lieutenant,  106 

Rev.  Alexander,  247 

Robert,  184,  274 

Thomas,  155,  218,  220 

William,  197,  453 

W.  H.,  101 

Smoogrow,  150,  320,  361,  362 
Smyllie,  John,  255,  316 
Smyllum,  280 
Smythe,  Andrew,  223,  256 

Barbara,  254 

(Jeorge,  81,  97,  252,  253,  288 

Henry,  343 

James.  255 

John,  252,  254 

Patrick,    of   Braco,  35,  54, 

79,  80,  81,  125,  129,  194,  223, 

228,   231,   240,    250-256,   261, 

264,  265,  415,  416 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


487 


Smvthe,  Robert,  254,  255 

Snelsetter,  323 

Snuff  Mill,  401 

Society   for   the   Propagation  of 

Christian  Knowledge,  365 
Soking,  Captain,  255 
Solguard,  Captain,  R.N.,  106 
Sol  way  Moss,  20 
Somera,  Sub-Lieut.,  H. M.S.  Al- 

borough,  301 
Soulisquoy,  344 
Soulsetter,  79 
Sound,  80,  91,  94,  97,  145,  146, 

180,  289 
South  Bridge,  Edinburgh,  337 
Southerquov,  79 
South  Ronaidshay,  1S6,  194,226, 

332,  351 
South wark  Jail,  217 
Spark,  Rev.  Mr,  47,  365 
Spence,  Agnes,  170 

Buchanan,  271 

Charles,  S.S.C.,  352 

I)avi<l,  3iJ9,  406 

ElsiHJth,  432 

(ieorge,   100,  105,  121,  126, 

129,   133,    18:^,   184,   241,   249, 

306,  330,  348,  350 

Harriet,  159 

Harrv,  363 

JameH,   113,   130,   137,   191, 

193,  207,  242,  275,  294,  338, 

354,  3(m,  373,  380,  446,  455 
John,  38,  90,  126,  170,  214, 

267,  268,  269,  291,  297,   314, 

436,  441,  446 

Keith,  Dr.,  159 

Nieol,  agent  for  the  Church, 

125,  130 

Nicol,  Provost,  164,  295 

Patrick,  432 

Richard,  181 

Robert,  380 

Thomas,  41,  337,  380,  425 

William,  147,  330,  361,  432 

&  Eunson,  Messrs,  463 

Spottiswood,  Bishop,  246 

Sprit igoe,  344 

SpvTiie,  244,  320 

St."  Andrews  Parish,  38,  78,  139, 

148,  150,  240,  380,  446 
Town,  63,  64,  77,  83,  84,  86, 

236,  '2,">3 

Cliapel,  Dieppe,  67 

St.  Catherine's  Quoys,  400,  412 
St.  Clairs,   13,  14,  15,  16,  17,  18, 

19,  20,  25,  62,  63,  92,  93,  123, 

368 
St.  Clair's  Loft,  130 
St.  Giles,  Edinburgh,  34,  81,  236 
St.  John,  Kirk  of,  79 
St.  John's  Day,  369 
St.  Magnus  Church,  Dingwall,  124 
St.  Magnus'  Day,  126 


St.  Margaret's  Hope,  101,  234, 
361 

St  Mary's  Church,  South  Ron- 
aidshay, 10 

St.  Miciiael  and  All  Angels'  Fes- 
tival, 113 

St.  Ola  Parish,  36,  38,  39,  47. 
75,  79,  98,  185,  188,  1^,  198, 
231,  245 

St  Olaf's  Church,  5,  9,  34,  39, 
66,  160,  164,  165,  402,  458 

Churchyard,  437 

St.  Peter  (frigate),  141,  142 

St.  Salvator,  195 

Stainsgair,  186 

Gressell,  186 

Oliver,  ISO 

Stainsgair's  Land,  186 

Stanger,  184 

Stalker,  Rev.  Hugh,  36,  330 

Standards  of  Weights  and 
Measures,  409,  410,  411 

Statham,  W.  H.,  225 

S  tax  igoe,  131 

Stennesi,  20,  78,  89 

Church  of,  399 

Stones  of,  397,  398 

Ballendeu  of,  40,  153 

Stevenson,  Abraham,  79 

Mr,  134 

Rol)ert  Louis,  459 

Roberta,  185 

Stewart,  Alexander,  60,  231, 
242,  293,  306,  332,  388 

Annas,  79 

Barbara,  433 

Bishop  Edward,  63,  64,  68 

Bishop  William,  of  Aber- 
deen, 64 

diaries,  282,  314,  345,  407 

David,  372,  373 

Dr.,  299,  329 

Eari  Patrick,  298,  323,  379, 

380,  384,  408,  410,  412 

Eari  Robert,  21.  22,  24,  25, 

26,  27,  51,  54,  76,  93,  95,  150, 
170,  226,  230,  235,  281,  290, 
359,  372,  408,  410 

Edward,  372,  373 

C;eorge,  332,  333 

Harry,   of   Carlougie,    182, 

•223,  281,  33i5 

Helen,  129,  142,  295,  296 

Henry,  251 

Tames,   126,  173,  204,  239, 

244,  308,  309,  310,  311,  352, 
385,  389,  413 

John,  reader,  153,  209,  263, 

282 

Jean,  263 

Lady  Barbara,  226 

Lord  Adam,  51 

Lord  James,  66 

Margaret,  251,  288,  298, 441 


Stewart,  Marie,  150 

Miss,  335 

Mrs,  of  Burness,  372,  373 

of  Drumlandrig,  18 

of  Gyre,  79 

of  Milton  Duff,  342 

Patrick,  141 

Prince  Charles  Edward,  145, 

216, 217,  302,  303,  304,  305,  443 

Rev.  Walter,  142,  332 

Robert,  209 

Sibilla,  18i) 

Sir  James,  of  Kilsythe,  25, 

28,  94,  182,  251,  408 

Thomas,  153,  224,  240,  425 

Trustees,  365 

Stewart's  Loft,  351 

Stewarte  of  Burray,  78,  80,  81, 

100,    107,    139,   145,   155,  176, 

187,   215,  216,  217,  221,  231, 

244,  245,  269,  322,  410 
of  Brugh,  200, 217,  219,  221, 

239,  254,  296,  324,   352,  372, 

373,  415,  4:« 

of  Eday,  145,  265,  269 

of  Egilshay,  185,  243 

of  Grajnisay,  44,  80,  85,  150, 

265,  281 

of  How,  265,  349 

Stick lar,  John,  295 

Sticklastadt,  4,  160 

Stirkoke,  154 

Still,  Dr.,  341 

Stiriing,  20,  81.  96,  ;i68 

Stocks,  417,  418 

Stool  of  Rei)entance,  417 

Storehouse,  124 

Stove,  126,  227 

Strang,  Andrew,  dyer,  286.  298, 

299,  306,  314,  31o,  329,  335, 
Andrew,    N.P.,    256,    299, 

300,  308 

Andrew,  of  Lopness,  189,192 

David,   97,    155,   211,  250, 

298,  299,   'M\  301,  33.1,  341, 

344,  345.  438,  443 

(ieorge,  299.  319 

Lieut.  Andrew,  201 

Magnus,  65,  226,  227 

William  Cordiner,  308 

William,  of  Lopness,  189 

Strange,  Isabella,  306 

James,  305,  306,  338 

Mary,  30,> 

Robert,  H.E  I.C.S.,  306 

Sir    Roy)ert,    145,   299-306, 

319,  320,  355,  341,  368, 369, 388 

Sir  Thomas,  299,  306 

Strathbogie,  383 

Strathnaver,  67 

Stroma,  155,  156 

Stromness,  40,  75, 79,  80,  83, 103, 

104,   112,   134,  191,   214,  215, 

218,  251,  269 


Digitized  by 


Google 


488 


INDEX. 


Str»xig,  Mari'm,  142 

StnAinay,  3^,  6%,  79.  82,  «,  1 18, 

144,   147,  IW,   188,    18'J.  'Jffo, 

214,  215,  219,  2»l,  231,  336, 

4>'»l,4«4 
an/1  ErUy  (paruh;,  151, 164, 

165 

U.P,  Man*e.  448 

HtryrM,  96,  110,   194,  195,  197, 

2ri8,  215.  2i»,  221,  225.  447 
.StrynzJe.  2Ji5 
Stuart.  Hwiry,  415 

of  >laynei(,  415 

Re%'.  JarneH,  457 

Hiibchantry.  227,  228,  239 
Subriean'v  Ix^lging,  245,  288 

Yard,  288 

HuliNf-ription  Jv:h<j*>l,  449 
Kurlreyar,  5 
Sarnhargh  Roo«t,  390 
SummenUle,  20.  22,  25 
Siirulay  Hfirirtfi,  422 
Surulerlaiifl,  149 
KaneN'>n,  KrngiU,  13 
Kurry,  Jamaica.  126 
Hutherland.  Alex.,  88,  432 

David,  45,  438 

Donald,  2:17 

KUf^eth,  430,  431,  432 

Hugh,  M.D.,  91,  186,  197, 

204 

Jame«.  231,  441 

John,  Karl  of.  23 

Rev,  Hugh,  46 

Roliert,  237,  368,  369 

William.  179,  238,  362,  363 

Kutherland«ihire,  81,  415 
Kverrir  of  Norway',  10,  61 
Kwan,  Dr.,  106 
SwanbiNter,  431 
Sweden,  400 

Queen  of,  413 

SM-ein,  AHliefs  mm,  7,  8,  9,  11,  58 
Swelehie,  61 
Swenton,  KlMficth,  329 

Thomau.  24,  47,  227 

HHethay,  215 

Switzerland,  459 

Swonnay,  215 

SydHerrf,  BiHhop,  82,  83,  84,  244, 

265 

Dr.  John,  83 

Symie,  Rolxjrt,  220,  221 
Symondsone,  Magnus,  435 


"  Tamkrnaclk,"  The,  452 
TuilopH,   Incorporation   of,    404, 

4^)6 
Tain,  39,  1)1,  102,  136 
Tait,  Elizabeth,  181 

(iilbei  t,  435 

Harie,  318,  344 


Tait,  Jam«K,  236,  237 

4'A.n,  2f0i,  366.  3>*0,  4^/7, 

455,  4>>7.  463 

Ma;rrias,  425 

Wiiiiam.  42 

Trurt.  -3^4 

Tankemesw.  38.  87,  240,  452 

Houj»e,  2(17,  227,  210,  242, 

244,  345 

Lane,  339 

TayU/r,  Ahmter,  348 

— —  Alexander,  124,  335 

KlAfjeth.  335 

Ga\in,  95 

Jamfc«,  344,  380 

John,  453 

Magnus,  268,  319,  334, 348, 

379,  415 

Marjoric,  361 

Peter,  124,  126,  334 

Th<iraa8,  54,  334,  358,  364 

■ Walter,  361 

Tennyson,  Alfre<I,  101 

Thames,  39r> 

Thampsrm,  Jauies,  421 

I Thomas,  420 

'  Tbeotflosiufl,  Kmperor,  1 

:  Tbesaurerie,  183,  227,  237,  238, 

239 
j  Thieves'  Hole,  253 

Holme,  105 

Things,  23 

ThirUtane.  93 

Thomas,  Bishop,  64 

Captain,  390 

Mr  Thomas,  449 

River,  Jamaica,  175 

Thorns,  Sheriff,  390 

Thomson,  Alexander,  131 

Klizal^'th,  150 

Janet,  417 

Jean,  111,  112 

John,  453 

Marjorie,  51 

Thor,  4 

Thora,  6 

Thorarinn  Killinef,  9,  10 
Thorfinn,  4,  5,  58 
Thorkell  Lei  re,  59 
Thorbiom  Klerk,  9,  10 
Thorrold  of  Buicht,  123,  124 
Thi-awn  Mouth,  25,  27 
Three  Brethren  (ship),  132 
Thuring,  Christian,  316 

Mrs,  341,  380 

Thurso,  137,  233,  452 
Thwart  Close,  119,  187 
Tinch,  Mr,  297 
Tinguall,  134,  226 
Todd,  Mr  Hugh,  268 
Toftness,  253 
Tofts,  Scollay  of,  118 
Tolbooth,  40,  148,  194.  287,  340, 
359,  407 


'  Tolbooth,  EdiQbiiri:!^  247 
Tolkop,  15^1 
Trmzue,  Dr.,  443 
Torfarus,  «»,  240 
Torfe,  Provr*t,  136 
Tounigar,  aV  IJJ,  310 
Tooraine,  Duke  of,  18 
Toan  <*aard,  345 

Hall,  a>116,  168,  194,  231, 

-284 

Hall  Aspemblie*,  294 

Hall,  Xea-,  226,  232 

House,  19,  369,  370 

Officer*.  420 

Tow  mall  and  Oven,  348 
Towquoy,  68,  189 
Trades'  Coqi^trHtious,  403 

Park,  4413-411 

Trail,  John,  235 

Traill,  Amie,  175,  176,  383 

Andrew,  26,  295 

—  Barbara,  129,  179,  383  460, 
461 

—  Bishop,  234 

—  David,  ia5,  121,  130,  178, 
187,  197,  2rj6,  20S,  212,  216, 
238,  249,  267,  295,  296,  314, 
315,  344,  345,  377 

1 Dr,  370 

Dr.,  of  Wooilwick,  234, 235, 

'      359 

, Elizabeth,    173,    187,   218, 

219,  220,  239 

George,  43,  44,   118,    126, 

I      136.   137,   153,   158,  177,   178, 

179,  186,  187,  193,  196,  206, 
231,  234,  235,  270,  296,  328, 
376,410,411.462 

George  William,  158 

Gilbert,  380,  384,  386 

Helen,  209 

Isabel,  151,  193,  195,  270 

James,  38,  41,  130,  145,  156, 

157, 158,  160, 196, 237,309,316, 
317,  341,  346,  380,  389,  444 
Jean,  195,  197 

John,   129,   142,   158,   165, 

195,  196,  208,  217,  218,  219, 
242,  290,  294,  295,  296,  336, 
372,  388,  442 

Margaret,  156,  195,  309 

Marjorie,  257,  282,  314,  328 

Mary,  159 

Miss,  380 

Mr,  M.P.,353 

Mrs,  195,  386,  436 

■ of  Holland,  town  house,  373 

Patrick,  37,  122.  129,  130, 

131,  132,  136,  142,  159,  171, 
184,  186,  187,  190,  193,  196, 
197,  204,  205,  231,  241,  270, 
271,295,  309,341,368,462 

Rev.  Thomas,  of  Hobbister, 

383 


Digitized  by 


Google 


INDEX. 


48» 


Traill,  Rev.  Thorcas,  of  Tirlet, 
197,  219,  383 

Rev.  Walter,  208,  338 

Robert,  235,  371 

Sibilla,  296 

Thomas,  36,  38,  136,  137, 

lo2,  173,  175,  176.  195,  197, 
235,  236,  242,  244,  270,  302, 
309, 338,  370, 373, 387, 388, 415 

Thomas  Stewart,  Professor, 

197 

— :- William,  90,  130,  132,  135, 
136,  152,  153,  155,  158,  175, 
179,  181,  195,  196,  197,  204, 
205,  218,  225,  269,  277,  314, 
343,  371,  375,  376,  385,  400, 
401,  441,  456 

Urquhart,  354 

Woodwick,  120,  330,  364, 

412,  456 

Traiirs  Folly,  130,  132,  133,  295 

Trenaby,  200,  201 

Trondheim,  29,  61 

Troup,  Mally,  110,  294 

William,  110,294 

Tudor,  19,  145,  148,  216,  231 

Tullo,  James,  180 

Tulloch,  Bishop  Thomas,  16,  40, 
52,  62,  63,  85 

Bishop  William,  16,  17,  18, 

19,  63 

Elizabeth,  263 

Hieronymus,  68,  199,  227 

James,  184,  186 

Marion,  79 

Robert,  77,  80,  457 

Turmiston,  349 

Tumbull,  Rev.  Mr,  134 

Tuskerbister,  19 

Tweedie  of  Drumelzier,  18 

Tvnemouth,  325 

Tyngwell,  123 

Tyrell,  Walter,  234 

Tyrie,  John,  65,  226,  227 

Tytler,  James,  201 

Tytler,  Rev.  Robert,  165 


Uea,  Westray,  199 

Ufi,  9 

Ulster,  229 

Uraphray,  Andrew,  243 

Unigar,  80 

Union  Bank,  183,  189,  194,  329 

Union  of  Parliaments,  138 

United  Secession  Church,  453 

University  of  Aberdeen,  89,  94, 

383 

of  Edinburgh,  167,  173,  395 

of  Glasgow,  382 

U.P.  Church,  402 

U.P.  Manse,  401,  453,  458 

Up-the-Gates     and     Down-the- 

Gates,  465 


Urquhart,  David,  336,  337 
John  Traill,  127,  198,  237, 

296,297 

Mrs  John,  296 

Robert,  405 

Samuel,  324 

Mrs  Thomas,  336 

Thomas,  postmaster,  335  to 

338 


Vaor,  378 
VaiUey,  250 
Valence,  Aymer  de,  91 
Varangian  Body  Guard,  9 
Vedder,  David,  107.  216 
Veitch,  George,  338 
Velyean,  James,  259 
Vengeance,  H.M.S.,  336 
Verstraeten,  Rev.  C.  M.,  364 
Victoria  Cross,  159 

Hall,  317,  318,  319 

Lane,  313 

Queen,  465 

Street,  276,  288-343 

Viggal,  250 
Vikings,  378 
Virginia,  9 
Voy,  Margaret,  424 
NicoU,  89 


Wait,  Mr,  271 

Waith,  Bridge  of,  89 

Walker,  Rev  James,  48 

Rev.  Robert,  445 

Wallace,  61 

Adam,  66 

Andrew,  173 

Dr.  James,  173 

James,  Contractor,  268 

James,  Piper,  149 

Jean,  205 

Rev.  James,  30,  34,  38,  43, 

47,  63,  84,  87,  125,  151,  170, 
171,  172,  173,  236,  267,  382, 
390,  416,  443,  450 

Walliwall,  344 

Walls,  75,  80,  145,  227 

Alexander,  453 

James,  373, 380, 405, 406, 468 

John,  420 

and  Flotta,  383 

Walter,  Alexander,  336,  337 

Waltness,  146 

Wapping,  Half  Moon  Court,  336 

Wards,  John,  461 

Thomas,  453 

Warren,  David,  113,  380 

Thomas,  180,  181 

Warrenfield,  400,  401,  465 

Warren's  Walk,  181 

Warwick,  John,  348 

Thomas,  348 


Wasdale,  97 
Watergate,  70 
Watersound,  233,  234 
Waterstoun,   Rev.   Patrick,  82> 

164 
Watson,  David,  Reader,  47 

Governor,  118,  382,  413 

Mr  John,  278 

Rev.  David,  261 

Watt,  Catherine,  208 

John,  Jamaica,  175 

John  Gibscm,  176 

John,  Wright,  195,  442 

Mr  John,  132,  175,  176, 206, 

236,  267 

Mr,  of  Skaill,  192,  395,  460 

Mr,  tenant  of  Birstane,  396^ 

Robert  Graham,  176 

WiUiam,  175,  176 

William,    per ri wig   maker, 

209 
William  George  Thomas,  of 

Skaill,  79,  176 
William  Graham,  of  Skaill, 

176 
William  Watt  Graham,  of 

Skaill,  176 
Watt's  Hospital,  London,  176 
Waverley  Novels,  135 
Weavers,  Incorporation  of,  404, 

406 
Webster,  Rev.  D.,  450 
Wedderburn,  Sir  David,  352 
Weights  and  Weighing   Imple- 
ments, 408,  409,  410,  411 
Weir,  John,  242,  387,  388 
Wellington  Street,  364 
Wesbister,  250 
Western  Isles,  189 
West  Hill,  105 
West  Indies,  175,  438 
West  Mainland,  134 
West,  Major,  132 

Painter,  305 

Westminster,  229 

Abbey,  83 

Westmoreland,  Jamaica,  175 
Westness,  137,  235 
West  Port,  Edinburgh,  83 
Westray,   38,   68,  98,  110,  188, 

189,  197,   199,  200,  217,  218, 

219,  231,  376,  459 
Weyland,  25,  105,  108, 167,  170, 

212,  293,  379,  412 
Whitby,  149 
White,  Bailie,  185 

John, 170 

John's,  Close,  170 

Mr,  Preacher,  447 

Whitechapel,  169 

White  Stone  of  Repentance,  41 7» 

421 
Whithorn,  446 
Wick,  102,  154,  372 

3B 


Digitized  by 


Google 


490 


INDEX. 


Wick,  Peter,  149 

Wideford  HiU,   105,    134,   293, 

377,  379 
Wilkinson,  Joseph,  169,  170 
William  the  Old,  Bishop,  7,  8, 

29,  49,  58,  160 

II.,  Bishop,  15,58 

III.,  Bishop,  61,  62,  401 

IV.,  Bishop,  62 

v..  Bishop,  62 

and  Mary,  152 

III.,  King,  210 

Henry,  Prince,  195 

Williams,  Captain,  146 
Williamson,  Mr  James,  374 
Wilson.  Cuthbert,  131 

Elizabeth,  170,  207 

Francis,  145 

Helen,  175,  206 

John,  457 

Magnus,  291 

— —  Messrs,  joiners,  400 

Rev.  John,  47,  88,  89,  151, 

152,  171,  172,  205,  236,  238, 
239,  248,  267,  379,  383,  450 

Thomas,  122,  176,  184,  186, 

288,  417 

Winchester,  See  of,  82 

Capt.   Peter,  45,   64,   122, 

137,  140,  141,  142,  295 

John,  140 

Rev.  James,  458 

Windbreck,  153,  231 
Windmill  Estate,  Jamaica,  175 


Wishart,  Edward,  446 

Nicol,  358 

Witch,  Jonet  Rendal  or  Rigga, 

256-260 
Wither  wood,  Jamaica,  175 
Wolfe  at  CuUoden,  304 
Wolverhampton,  4iB3 
Woleseley,  Lord,  101 
Wood,  Alexander,  252 

David,  363 

Woodhouse  Lee,  201 

Woods  and  Forests,   277,   365, 

381,  455 
Woodwick,  41, 131, 138,  329, 330 
Worcester,  Battle  of,  215 

Bishop  of,  74 

Work,  Head  of,  354 

Magnus,  432 

Wormadale,  205 

Wosbuster,  431 

Wray,  Sir  Cecil,  102 

Wright's  Houses,  83 

Wydewall,  226 

Wye,  16 

Wyre,  58,  69,  138,  168,  262,  266, 

267,  330 


Yairfa,  106 
Yairsay,  309 
York,  63,  74 

Archbishop  of,  58 

Duke  of,  87,  443 

Yorston,  A.,  405 


Young,  Agnes,  381 

Andrew,  90,  101,  110,  126, 

127,  130,  136,  174,  180,  181, 
203,  204,  205,  209,  211,  212» 
213,  215,  233,  234,  250,  268, 
269,  307,  309,  314,  368,  369 

Andrew,  Captain,  212,  213 

Archibald,  250 

Barbara,  210 

Charles,  210 

Christian,  210 

Christina,  215 

Elizabeth,  210 

Jacoba,  314 

James,  152,  180,  205,  210 

John,  250 

Mary,  210,213, 214,314, 434 

Peggie,  213,  214 

Sibilla,  210,  314 

Thomas,  209,  438 

William,  71,  100,  127,  181, 

190,  205,  208,  209,  211,  224, 
317,322 

— -  Street,  412 

Yule,  Mrs,  380,  386 

Rev.  John,  234,  239,  325, 

331,  365,  383 

Robert,  239,  298,  371,  383 


Zanoni,  16 
Zetland,  Earl  of,  27 

Lord,  336 

Marquis  of,  28 


A  few  names,  such  as  **  Kirkwall,"  "St.  Magnus  Cathedral,''  ''Shetland,"  &c.,  occur  so  fre- 
quently that  to  index  them  would  be  utterly  useless. 


Wm.  Pkacb  k  Son,  Psintebs,  Kirkwaix. 


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