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THE   BOOK   THAT   SAVES    TIME   AND    MONEY 


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LAIRD  &  LEE'S 

It 

GUIDE  TO 


Historic  Virginia 


AND   THE 


Jamestown  Centennial 


The  Historic  Sights  of  the  Old  Dominion  Graphically  and 
Realistically  Portrayed  with  Authentic  Descriptions  of 
the    Important    Events  and   Associations   that    Have 
Made    Famous    Jamestown,    Williamsburg,    York- 
town,  Smithfield,  Norfolk,    Hampton,   Newport 
News,    Old  Point  Comfort,  Fortress  Monroe, 
Portsmouth,  Virginia   Beach,    Cape   Henry, 
Petersburg,  Richmond  and  the  Noted  Bat- 
tlefields of  the  Civil  War.    Full  Statistics 
and  Itinerary.  Also  Concise  Directions 
for  Visiting   These    Many    Famous 
Places  with  the  Greatest  Possible 
Saving    of  Time   and  Expense. 


BEAUTIFULLY  ILLUSTRATED 

BY 

NUMEROUS  HALFTONES,  MAPS  and  DIAGRAMS 

Copyright,  jgoj,  ly   Wm.  H.  Let 

CHICAGO,  U.  S.  A. 
LAIRD  &  LEE,  Publishers 


f 


QUICK   REFERENCE   INDEX 


List  of  Illustrations,    . 

The  Dawn  of  American  History, 


PAGE 

7 

9 


PART  I.  —  Historic  Virginia. 
Chapter 

I.    The   Birth  of  the  Nation, 
II.    Hampton  Roads,  the  Gateway  to  America, 

III.  Norfolk,  the  Key  to  the  New  South, 

IV.  Portsmouth,  the  Government's  Workshop, 

V.    Newport  News,  the  World's  Greatest  Shipyard, 
VI.    Hampton,  the    Oldest   Continuous   Settlement  in 
the  United  States,  .... 

VII.    Old  Point  Comfort,  and  Fortress  Monroe — Ameri 
ca's  Gibraltar,       ..... 
VIII.    Jamestown,  the  Cradle  of  the  Republic, 
IX.    Williamsburg,  the  Historic  City  of  Celebrities, 
X.    Yorktown,  England's    "Waterloo," 
XI.    Smithfield,  the  Home  of  the  Peanut, 
XII.    Petersburg,  the  City  of  the  Crater, 

XIII.  Richmond,  the  City  of  Chivalry, 

XIV.  Battlefields,  near  Richmond, 
XV.    Alexandria,  the  Home  of  Washington  and  Lee 

XVI.    Early  Colonial  Churches, .... 


PART  II. — The  Jamestown  Centennial, 
The  Exposition  in  Brief,    . 
Exposition    Palaces, 
Government  Buildings, 
State  Buildings, 
The  Warpath, 
Naval  Display, 


17 

21 

31 

36 

38 

44 
47 
55 
83 
89 
92 

99 
105 
108 
no 


114 

"5 
117 
117 

127 
130 


PART   III.  —  General  Itinerary. 
General  Itinerary,     . 
Automobile    Routes, 
Autoboat  Routes, 
Transportation  Lines, 
Local  Itinerary, 


34-139-140 

.   135 

139 

140 

.   141 


OFFICIAL  PENNANT, 


JAMESTOWN   EXPOSITION. 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


Rescue  of  Capt.  John  Smith, 

Map  of  Exposition  Grounds, 

Official  Pennant  of  the  Exposition, 

Map  Historic  Places  in    Virginia, 

Old  Type  of  Monitor, 

Cape  Henry  Tablet,     . 

Capt.  John  Smith, 

Pocahontas,         .... 

Hampton  Roads, 

The  Essex,  an  Old-time  Warship, 

Bird's  Eye  View, 

Norfolk  Mace,    .... 

St.  Paul's,  Norfolk,      . 

Trinity  Church,  Portsmouth, 

Dry   Dock,   Newport   News, 

Soldiers'  Home,  Hampton, 

St,  John's  Church,  Hampton, 

Hampton   Industrial  School,  , 

Moat,    Fortress  Monroe, 

Church  Tower  Ruins,  Jamestown, 

Parson   Blair's  Tomb,  Jamestown, 

Ruins,  Governor's  Residence,  Jamestown, 

Plat  of    Williamsburg, 

Bruton  Church,  Williamsburg, 

Bruton  Church,  interior  plan. 

House  of  Burgesses  Site, 

Court  House,  Williamsburg, 

Wythe  House,  Williamsburg, 

Yorktown  as  it  is  To  day,     . 

Yorktown    Battlefield    Monument, 

Nelson  House,    .  .  *       . 

St.  Luke's  Church,  Smithfield,     , 

St.  Luke's  Church,  Smithfield,    interior, 

Blanford  Church,  Petersburg, 

Battlefield  of  the  Crater,  Petersburg, 

Peace  Monument,  Petersburg, 

St.  John's  Church,  Richmond,      . 

St.  John's  Church,  interior, 

Speaker's  Chair,  House  of   Burgesses, 

Stove,   House  of    Burgesses, 

Map  of  Battlefields,     . 

Christ  Church,    Alexandria, 

Battleship,    Virginia, 

Map,  Automobile  Route,     . 


138 


MAP  OF  VIRGINIA 


■«v*  TREN1 


—  N    o   R 


SHOWING  PRINCIPAL  CITIES  AND  HISTORICAL 
PLACES  OF  INTEREST 


THE  DAWN  OF  AMERICAN  HISTORY. 

Few  people  realize  that  the  Cradle  of  the  Kepublic 
was  not  the  rock-bound  coasts  of  New  England,  but 
the  rich  valleys  of  Virginia.  Upon  her  fertile  fields, 
the  armies  of  three  wars  bivouacked,  and  as  early 
as  1765  the  fires  of  patriotism  were  kindled  in  the 
House  of  Burgesses  at  Williamsburg.  Since  the  days 
of  Patrick  Henry,  the  state  has  given  birth  to  many 
illustrious  men;  patriots  whose  fame  has  shaken  the 
thrones  of  the  Old  World  and  revolutionized  the  cus- 
toms and  usages  of  the  New  Republic. 

Many  who  visit  Tidewater  Virginia  for  the  first 
time  express  the  utmost  astonishment  on  learning 
that  nothing  remains  of  historic  Jamestown  but  a  few 
crumbling  ruins  on  an  uninhabited  island,  nearly 
forty  miles  up  the  James  River  from  Norfolk  and 
the  site  of  the  Jamestown  Exposition. 

In  the  blood  stained  soil  of  the  Old  Dominion  lie 
buried  the  ancestry  and  chivalry  of  our  Nation,  and 
no  patriotic  American  should  neglect  to  visit  the 
sacred  shrines  that  have  become  interwoven  with  the 
very  warp  amd  woof  of  our  national  history.  Any 
one  m&king  the  itinerary  laid  out  in  these  chapters, 
cannot  fail  to  become  imbued  with  admiration  for 
the  sturdy  colonists  who  made  the  wilderness  to  blos- 
som as  the  rose;  out  of  primeval  forests  erecting  the 
sturdy  foundations  of  our  glorious  Ship  of  State. 

After  each  hallowed  spot  has  been  seen,  the  tour- 
ist will  appreciate  the  real  spirit  that  has  made  pos- 
—  9  — 


—  10  — 

sible  the  commenioration  of  the  three  hundredth  an- 
niversary of  the  first  settlement  in  America  of  Eng- 
lish speaking  people. 

From  the  sturdy  little  band  of  pilgrims  who  landed 
at  Jamestown  three  hundred  years  ago  have  come 
the  spirit  and  the  courage,  the  zeal  and  the  energy 
which  have  conquered  the  powers  of  Europe,  chained 
the  lightning's  flash  and  harnessed  the  mighty  tor- 
rents of  Niagara. 

Here  began  our  history;  from  out  of  this  deserted 
island,  a  mighty  nation  came  into  existence  and,  in 
the  ivy-clad  churchyards  of  Virginia,  quietly  sleep 
the  statesmen,  warriors  and  presidents,  who  with 
others,  were  directly  responsible  for  American  Inde- 
pendence. In  the  midst  of  these  historic  associations, 
every  citizen  should  be  proud  to  uncover,  and  rever- 
ently say,  ' '  Thank  God,  I  am  an  American. ' ' 


TYPE  OF  MONITOR  USED  IN  THE  CIVIL  WAR. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE    BIRTH     OF     THE     NATION. 

Three  hundred  years  ago,  the  thirteenth  of  May, 
1607,  the  foundation  of  the  American  Republic  was 
laid  by  a  sturdy  band  of  English  explorers  at  James- 
town, now  desolate  and  deserted. 

Prior  to  1607,  Spain  had  gained  a  successful  foot- 
hold in  the  New  World.  The  defeat  of  the  Spanish 
Armada  awakened  England 's  desire  to  push  her  con- 
quests westward.  A  charter  for  the  colonization  of 
Virginia  was  granted  to  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  in  1584, 
and  Amadas  and  Barlowe  were  sent  to  explore  the 
coast  and  chart  the  rivers.  Upon  their  return,  Ral- 
eigh sent  out  a  party  of  colonists  under  Sir  Ralph 
Lane.  For  a  year  they  remained  in  America,  where 
many  died  from  fever,  while  others  were  killed  by 
Indians.  In  1586,  the  remainder  were  brought  back 
to  England  by  Sir  Francis  Drake.  Two  other  expe- 
ditions were  sent  out  but  failed.  In  1602,  Gosnold 
surveyed  the  coast  of  New  England  and  called  it 
North  Virginia.     No   settlement,   however,   was   made. 

December  20,  1606,  an  expedition  started  for  the 
New  World  under  command  of  Capt.  Christopher  New- 
port. Among  the  passengers  was  one  John  Smith, 
destined  to  play  an  important  part  in  the  colony  to  be 
founded.  Three  boats  constituted  the  entire  outfit: 
The  * '  Susan  Constance, ' '  the  ' '  Discovery, ' '  under 
John  Ratcliffe,  and  the  ''Godspeed,"  under  Bartholo- 
mew Gosnold.  Their  destination  was  the  island  of 
Roanoke,  but  after  four  months  of  sailing,  on  April 
—  11  — 


—  12  — 

26,  1607,  they  were  driven  by  a  fierce  gale  into  the 
Chesapeake.  The  southern  cape  they  named  Henry 
and  the  northern  Charles,  in  honor  of  the  sons  of  King 
James.  At  Cape  Henry,  the  savages  drove  them  back 
to  their  ships  and  the  little  band  proceeded  to  Hamp- 
ton Roads,  anchoring  at  a  sheltered  place  which  they 
named  Point   Comfort. 

A  few  days  later  they 
sailed  up  the  James  River, 
then  called  Powhatan,  an- 
choring May  13,  off  a  pen- 
insula, thirty-five  miles  from 
the  mouth  of  the  James. 
Having  landed,  the  first 
tiling  they  did  was  to  erect 
a  tent  in  which  to  hold  re- 
ligious services,  and  here, 
under  Rev.  Robert  Hunt, 
began  the  first  English 
Cluirch  in  America. 

Newport  soon  returned 
to  England  for  more  pro- 
visions and  new  colonists, 
leaving    one    hundred    and 

TABLET    ON    CAPE  fivp    spttlpr«?    alnnp      in     thp 

HENRY   LIGHTHOUSE         ^^  ^   settlers    alone     m     tne 

wilderness.  Capt.  John 
Smith  had  been  appointed  one  of  the  magistrates  by 
the  London  Company,  but  during  the  voj^age  jealousy 
arose  and  he  was  accused  of  designing  to  usurp  the 
provincial  government  and  make  himself  king  of  Vir- 
ginia. He  w^as  arrested  and  confined  during  the  voy- 
age, but  liberated  on  their  arrival  when  he  demanded 
a  trial.  He  was  finally  acquitted  and  took  his  place 
in  the  council. 


13 


Eavaged  by  fever  and  sickness,  attacked  bj  sav- 
ages and  torn  by  internal  dissention,  the  colony  was 
only  held  together  by  the  indomitable  spirit  of  Smith, 
As  many  as  four  or  five  died  every  day,  among  them 
the  intrepid  explorer,  Gosnold.  Upon  Newport 's  re- 
turn from  England  only  thirty-eight  of  the  original 
one  hundred  and  five  settlers  remained. 

In  an  attempt  to  explore  the  head  waters  of  the 
Chickahominy,  Smith  was  attacked  and  captured  by 
Indians.  By  showing 
them  his  compass  he 
managed  to  divert  their 
attention  until  he  was 
led  in  triumph  before 
Powhatan,  their  chief. 
The  Council  finally  con- 
demned him  to  death, 
but  as  the  savages 
circled  around  him  in 
silence  with  Powhatan 
ready  to  strike  the 
fatal  blow,  Pocahontas 
pushed,  herself  to  the 
side  of  the  prisoner  and 
dramatically  threw  her- 
self between  him  and  his  captors.  Through  her  in- 
tercession, the  life  of  Smith  was  saved  and  the  next 
morning  he  was  conducted  back  to  Jamestown,  seven 
weeks  after  his  capture.  This  exciting  incident  is  de- 
scribed by  Capt.  Smith  himself  in  the  following  lan- 
guage: 

*'A  long  consultation  was  held,  the  conclusion  of 
which  was  that  two  great  stones  were  brought  before 
Powhatan.      As    many    as    could    laid    hands    on    him. 


CAPT.    JOIIX    SMITH 


—  14  — 


dragged  him  to  thern,  and  thereon  laid  his  head;  and 
being  ready  with  their  clubs  to  beat  out  his  brains, 
Pocahontas,  the  King's  tlearest  daughter,  when  no 
entreaty  could  prevail,  got  his  head  on  her  arms,  laid 
lior  own  upon  his  to  save  him  from  death;  whereat 
tho  Emperor  was  content  he  should  live  to  make 
him  hatchets,  beads  and  copper." 

In  1609,  Powhatan 
plotted  to  destroy 
Jamestown,  but  through 
Pocahontas,  his  daugh- 
ter, the  colonists  were 
warned  in  time  to  pro- 
tect themselves.  Subse- 
quently Pocahontas  was 
baptized  by  the  name 
of  Eebecca.  She  mar- 
ried Eolfe,  with  whom 
she  visited  England, 
where  she  died,  leav- 
ing one  son.  It  has 
been  said  she  ^was  in 
love  with  Capt.  Smith,  who  was  many  years  her 
senior  and  whom  she  after  met  in  England. 

When  Smith  left  for  England,  the  Colony  numbered 
five  hundred,  but  famine  and  pestilence  besieged  the 
hardy  pioneers  and  in  May,  1610,  only  sixty  dis- 
heartened, haggard  settlers  remained.  June  7,  1610, 
with  the  drums  rolling  a  dirge,  the  few  dejected 
colonists  set  sail  for  England,  arriving  at  Hampton 
Roads  in  time  to  meet  the  ships  of  Lord  Delaware, 
the  new  governor,  who  had  just  arrived  with  a  sup- 
ply of  provisions  and  one  hundred  and  eighty  new 
adventurers  who  put  new  hope  into  their  hearts. 


POCAHONTAS 


—  15  — 

From  this  time  the  Colony  prospered.  In  1619,  in 
the  wooden  church  at  Jamestown,  Gov,  Yeardly  con- 
vened the  first  legislative  assembly  in  Virginia,  the 
upper  house  being  called  the  Council  and  the  lower 
one  the  House  of  Burgesses. 

March  22,  1622,  three  hundred  and  forty-seven  of 
the  colony  were  butchered  by  the  Indians.  In  1624, 
the  Crown  took  over  the  government  of  the  colony, 
dissolving  the  charter  of  the  London  Company.  Up 
to  this  time  nine  thousand  colonists  had  been  sent 
to  Virginia,  but  only  two  thousand  had  survived. 
Grants  conveyed  by  the  London  Company  were  taken 
away  and  settlers  deprived  of  their  lawful  holdings; 
agents  sent  to  England  to  remedy  the  wrong,  re- 
turned unsuccessful  and  after  years  of  abuse  at  the 
hands  of  the  king,  discontent  culminated  in  open  insur- 
rection under  the  leadership  of  Nathaniel  Bacon. 

Governor  Berkeley  refused  to  dispatch  forces  against 
the  Susquehannah  Indians,  who  were  on  the  war  path; 
but  in  1676  Bacon  for  this  purpose  raised  six  hundred 
volunteers,  who  were  denounced  by  the  Governor  as 
rebels. 

Civil  war  now  ensued  and  Jamestown  was  burned 
by  Bacon 's  men.  The  death  of  Bacon  became  the 
end  of  the  rebellion  and  Berkeley  eventually  returned 
to  England,  where  he  died. 

After  Bacon 's  death,  Berkeley  hung  all  of  those 
who  had  opposed  him  upon  whom' he  could  lay  hands. 
The  wife  of  Major  Chessman  begged  the  old  governor 
upon  her  knees  to  spare  her  husband,  but  without 
avail.  Even  his  old-time  friend,  William  Drummond, 
was  sacrificed  to  his  wrath. 

' '  Mr.  Drummond, ' '  he  sai<l  in  a  sneering  voice,  ' '  you 
are  very  welcome!     I  am  more  glad  to  see  you  than  any 


—  16  — 

man  in  Virginia!  Mr.  Druuinioud,  you  shall  be  hanged 
in  half  an  hour !  ' ' 

As  soon  as  King  Charles  II  heard  of  this  he  restored 
to  Mrs.  Drummond  her  husband's  property  which  the 
governor  had  confiscated. 

''That  old  fool,"  said  Charles  II,  "has  hanged  more 
men  in  that  naked  country  than  I  did  for  the  murder 
of  my  father!  " 

Owing  to  the  fever,  which  seemed  prevalent  so  much 
of  the  time,  it  was  decided  to  abandon  the  site  at 
Jamestown  and  remove  the  seat  of  government  to  Wil- 
liamsburg, Avhich  was  done  in  1699,  the  year  after  the 
burning  of  the  State-House. 

The  waters,  of  the  James  River  have  long  since  con- 
verted the  peninsula  into  an  island.  Fire  and  sword, 
pestilence  and  famine  have  done  their  work,  and  only 
ruins  remain  to  mark  the  site  of  historic  old  James- 
town, but  the  struggles  and  sufferings  of  the  early 
colonists  w^ere  not  unavailing,  for  after  Jamestown 
came  Williamsburg,  which  first  fanned  the  flames  of 
the  Eevolution  leading  to  the  glorious  victory  at  York- 
town  and  the  subsequent  birth  of  the  American  Re- 
public. 


CHAPTER  TI. 

HAMPTON     ROADS,     THE     GATEWAY     OF     AMERICA. 


BATTLESHIPS    ON    HAMPTON    ROADS 

Certainly,  the  most  historic  body  of  water  in  the 
United  States,  Hampton  Eoads,  is  also,  perhaps,  the 
most  beautiful  harbor  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  In  shape, 
it  is  an  isosceles  triangle,  eleven  miles  long  on  one 
side  and  nine  miles  in  length  on  the  other  two  sides, 
forming  an  area  of  about  fifty  square  miles,  sheltered 
by  the  Virginia  coasts,  connecting  Chesapeake  Bay 
with  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Into  this  vast  body  of  water 
flow  the  Elizabeth,  Nansemond  and  James  Rivers, 
the  latter  being  four  miles  wide  at  its  mouth. 

A  glance  at  the  bird's-eye  view  on  page  20  will 
show  the  exact  location  of  these  streams,  with  the 
cities  bordering  the  shores  of  the  Roads.  The  waters 
are  deep  enough  for  the  largest  war  vessels  built  and 
extensive  enough  to  manoeuvre  the  largest  fleet  afloat. 
Sheltered  by  Cape  Henry  and  Cape  Charles,  Willoughby 
Spit  and  Old  Point;  provided  with  one  of  the  largest 
ship  building  plants  and  dry  docks  in  the  world  and 
supplied  by  one  of  the  most  important  government 
—  17  — 


—  18  — 

•Navr  Yards,  Hampton  Koads  has  long  been  considered 
the   strategic   naval  center  of  the  Atlantic  coast. 

In  the  days  of  the  early  discoveries,  it  became  the 
objectire  point  of  the  storm-driven  colonists.  Almost 
the  first  guns  discharged  by  the  British  navy  at  the 
commencement  of  the  Eevolutionary  War  were  fired 
by  Lord  Dunmore  upon  Norfolk  and  the  cities  of 
Hampton  Roads,  In  1779  the  British  again  invaded 
Hampton  Roads,  capturing  Portsmouth  and  the  navy 
yard,  and  the  French  admirals,  D  'Estaing  and  De 
Grasse,  later  sailed  to  Washington's  aid  at  Yorktown 
through  these  historic  waters. 

When  after  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  the  portentous 
events  of  the  period  prevented  Napoleon  from  remain- 
ing in  Paris,  it  was  planned  that  he  should  escape  to 
Hampton  Roads.  However,  an  attorney  at  Bordeaux 
persuaded  him  against  this  course  and  he  put  to  sea 
from  Rochefort  and  was  soon  captured  by  the  British 
frigate  Bellerophon.  His  brother,  though,  refused  to 
follow  the  attorney's  advice  and  reached  America  in 
safety.  Prince  Louis  Bonaparte,  Napoleon's  nephew 
and  later  Emperor  of  France,  sixteen  years  after, 
sailed  into  Hampton  Roads  with  the  French  frigates 
L'Andromede  and  La  Sirene  on  a  visit  to  Norfolk. 

In  the  War  of  1812,  naval  activities  again  centered 
around  Hampton  Roads.  June  22,  1813,  preparatory 
to  entering  Norfolk,  the  British  attacked  Craney 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Elizabeth  River.  As  they 
j)assed  Nansemond  Point,  they  were  discovered  and 
attacked  by  a  battery  on  the  shore  manned  by  mar- 
ines from  the  Constellation.  Three  barges  were  sunk 
and  most  of  the  men  drowned,  the  few  survivors  re- 
treating to  their  vessels.  Those  who  had  previously 
landed  were  repulsed  by  the  Virginia  militia. 


—  19  — 

During  the  Civil  War,  Hampton  Eoads  became  an 
important  strategic  point,  as  it  was  the  gateway  to 
Washington.  Here,  almost  opposite  the  site  of  the 
Jamestown  Exposition,  the  Monitor  and  the  Merrimac 
fought  their  epoch-making  battle,  and  over  its  waters 
thundered  the  guns  of  Fortress  Monroe  and  the  battle- 
ships of  both  navies. 


THE  ESSEX,  AN  OLD-TIME  ^YARSIIIP. 
What  Yorktown  or  Gettysburg  have  been  to  our 
land  forces,  Hampton  Eoads  has  been  our  navy.  Pro- 
tected by  Fortress  Monroe  and  the  Eip  Eaps,  it  is 
the  gateway  to  our  shores;  the  harbor  for  every  storm- 
beaten  mariner  and  the  defender  against  every  invad- 
ing foreign  foe. 


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CHAPTER  Til. 

NORFOLK,    THE    KEY    TO    THE    NEW    SOUTH. 
POPULATION    80,000. 

Norfolk  is  the  headquarters  of  nearl}^  all  visitors 
to  tidewater  Virginia.  The  city  has  many  good  hotels, 
the  principal  ones  being  the  Monticello,  on  Granby 
Street,  Monticello  and  City  Hall  Avenues;  the  Lorraine, 
Granby  and  Tazewell  Streets;  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Fairfax. 

Having  secured  a  location,  the  tourist  should  study 
the  relative  jiosition  of  Norfolk  and  other  tidewater 
cities  of  Virginia.  The  bird's-eye  view  given  on  page 
20  conveys  an  accurate  idea  of  the  contiguous  terri- 
tory. As  seen  from  this  map,  Norfolk  is  situated  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Elizabeth  Eiver  at  the  mouth 
of  its  eastern  branch,  opposite  Berkley  and  Ports- 
mouth. This  river  and  its  branches  are  arms  of 
Chesapeake  Bay,  forming  a  harbor  of  about  1,000 
acres,  thirty  feet  deep,  connecting  with  Hampton 
Eoads,  an  outer  harbor  of  forty  or  fifty  square  miles. 

On  this  body  of  .water  is  located  the  site  of  the 
Jamestown  Exposition,  opposite  Fortress  Monroe,  Old 
Point,  Hampton  and  Newport  News,  and  into  Hamp- 
ton Eoads  flow  the  waters  of  the  James  Eiver.  As 
a  matter  of  reference  a  few  statistics  regarding  Nor- 
folk may  not  be  out  of  place. 

In  1905,   the   city   had   136   miles   of   electric   roads, 

14    hospitals    and    asylums,    1-4    new^spapers,    12    hotels, 

9  places  of  amusement^  7  railroad  lines,  22  steamship 

lines,   14   banks,   92   benevolent   orders,   18   schools,    76 

—  21  — 


2? 

churches,  125  miles  of  paved,  curbed  and  graded 
streets,  50  miles  of  sewers,  5  city  buildings,  3  libraries 
and  6  public  parks. 

In  addition  to  being  a  great  railway  and  steam- 
boat terminus,  Norfolk  is  an  important  manufactur- 
ing center.  In  1900  nearly  seven  hundred  manufac- 
turing establishments  were  reported,  with  an  aggre- 
gate capital  of  nearly  eighteen  million  dollars.  Lum- 
ber, cotton,  peanuts,  wines,  oysters,  fish  and  fertilizers 
are  the  principal  products  handled.  Truck  farming 
and  ship  building  are  also   important   industries. 

The  principal  business  streets  of  Norfolk  are  Main, 
Granby  and  Church  Streets.  Having  strolled  through 
the  ]pusiness  sections,  the  tourist  can  spend  a  short  time 
in  visiting  the  more  important  places  of  interest,  but 
before  doing  this,  a  short  synopsis  of  the  city's  his- 
tory may  be  read  with  profit. 

Prior  to  the  settlement  of  the  English  in  the  state, 
Eastern  Virginia  was  occupied  by  forty  different  In- 
dian tribes,  thirty  of  them  belonging  to  Powhatan's 
Confederacy. 

''Alas,  for  them!  their  day  is  o'er; 

Their  fires  are  out,  from  shore  to  shore; 
No  more  for  them  the  wild  deer  bounds, 
The  plough  is  on  their  hunting  grounds. ' ' 

In  1662,  two  hundred  acres  of  land  now  occupied  by 
the  city  was  owned  by  Lewis  Vandermull,  who  sold  it 
to  a  shipwright  named  Nicholas  Wise,  Sen.  In  1680, 
fifty  acres  of  this  land  was  juirchased  for  a  townsite 
for  "Tenn  thousand  pounds  of  tobacco  and  Caske. " 
Sept.  15,  1736,  the  town  was  incorporated  as  a  Koj^al 
Borough  and  Sam'l  Boush  became  the  first  mayor. 

The  name  Norfolk,  pronounced  Norfolke,  was  given 


—  23  — 

to  the  county  by  Colonel 
Thorogood  in  memory 
of  his  native  county  in 
England.  Many  of  the 
streets  were  named  in 
honor  of  early  settlers, 
Colonial  governors  and 
officials,  as  Dunmore, 
Botetourt  and  Washing- 
ton. 

The  accompanying  il- 
lustration shows  the 
original  Norfolk  mace 
presented  to  the  cor- 
poration by  Eobert  Din- 
widdle, Lieut.  Governor 
of  Virginia,  1753.  It 
is  40%  inches  long  and 
is  surmounted  by  an 
arched  crown  with  orb 
and  cross,  with  the 
Eoyal  Arms  engraved 
beneath  the  crown.  It 
was  hidden  in  a  bank 
vault  during  the  Civil 
War  and  thus  kept  in- 
tact from  designing 
hands. 

Up  to  1776  Norfolk 
continued  to  grow  and 
prosper,  but  with  the 
commencement  of  the 
Eevolutionary  War  her 
troubles      began.       The 


NORFOLK   CITY    MACE 


—  24  — 

most    interesting   evidence    of   tliese   troublous  times   is 
the  old  cluireli,  Avith   its  ejiunon-ball. 

Old  St.  Paul's  Church  (Church  Street). — Elizabeth 
Kivor  Parish  was  established  1037  and  the  first  church 
erected  at  "Sewell's  Point."  The  first  Norfolk  church 
was  built  1641,  but  no  trace  of  it  can  be  found.  The 
]»rosent  edifice  was  ereftcd  in  1739 -and  became  known 
;is  the  ''Borouirh  Church.'^ 


OLD    ST.    PAUL'S    CHURCH,    NORFOLK 

The  site  was  presented  to  the  Parish  by  Sam'l 
Boush,  the  first  mayor  of  Norfolk,  and  his  initials  can 
still  be  seen  on  a  brick  in  the  south  wing.  He  is 
buried  in  the  old  church.yard.  Eev.  John  Wilson  was 
the  first  rector.  In  1761  the  parish  was  divided  into 
Elizabeth  River,  Portsmouth  and  St.  Bride's  parishes. 

After  Lord  Dunmore's  defeat  Dec.  2,  1775,  at  Great 
Bridge,  ten  miles  from  Norfolk,  he  retired  to  his  fleet 
in  Norfolk  harbor.  Jan.  1,  1776,  he  began  bombard- 
ing Norfolk,  destroying  a  goodly  portion  of  the  town. 


—  25  — 

A  ~)Y2  inch  cannou-ball  struck  the  south  wall  of  Old 
St.  Paul's  under  the  eaves  near  the  Church  street  cor- 
ner. The  ball  fell  to  the  ground  and  in  1848  it  was 
found  and  dug  up  by  Capt.  Seabury  and  cemented  into 
the  cavity  it  made  in  the  church  wall. 

In  1901  the  Great  Bridge  Chapter,  Daughters  of  the 
American  Eevolution,  erected  a  tablet  on  the  wall, 
which  reads,  "Fired  by  Lord  Dunmore,  Jan.  1,  1776." 
The  church  was  disestablished  as  a  result  of  the  Kevo- 
lutionary  War  and  its  glebe  lands  were  confiscated  by 
tlio  state. 

In  1832  it  was  rei)aired  and  consecrated  as  St. 
I'.iiirs.  During  the  Civil  War,  it  was  occupied  by 
Federal  troops  from  18(32  to  1865.  For  damage  done 
the  church  during  tlie  war,  the  gov^ernment  has  since 
awarded  $3,600.  It  was  rejiaired  and  the  interior  re- 
stored in  1892  and   tlie  tower  erected   1901. 

Churchyard  (Nearly  Two  Acres  in  Extent).— Over 
265  tombs  are  recorded  in  the  records  of  St.  Paul 's. 
Thy  inscriptions  have  been  copied  and  indexed  in 
a  l)Ook.  The  oldest  date  is  Jan.  18,  1673,  on  the  stone 
marking  the  grave  of  ''Dorothy  Farrell."  Another 
stone,  not  marking  any  grave,  was  brought  from 
King's  Creek  and  bears  an  inscription  to  the  memory 
of  Elizabeth,  wife  of  Honorable  Nathaniel  Bacon. 
Dr.  Okeson,  who  was  responsible  for  the  restoration  of 
the  church  after  the  Civil  War,  was  buried  in  the 
churchyard  by  special  permission  from  the  city. 

One  of  the  queer  epitaphs  reads: 

"Behold  my  grave,  how  low  I  lie  ! 
As  you  are  now,  so  once  was  I. 
As  I  am  now.   so  you   must  be, 
Then  be  prepared  to   follow — me." 
It  is  said  that  during  the  Civil  War  a  soldier  wa-s 
responsible  for  scratching  on  the  tomb,  with  his  saber, 
the  additional  lines: 


—  26  — 

"To  follow  you  I  am  not  bent 
Until  I  know  which  way  you  went." 

John  Hancock's  Chair. — Tn  the  vcstry-room  of  St. 
Paul's  is  a  mahogany  arm  chair,  upholstered  in  leather 
bearing  a  silver  plate  with  the  following  inscription: 

"This  chair  was  occupied  by  John  Hancock  when 
he  signed  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  It 
was  bought  by  Colonel  Thomas  M.  Bayley,  of 
Accomac  County.  Virginia.  At  his  death  it  became 
the  property  of  his  daughter  Ann,  who  subse- 
quently intermarried  with  the  Rev.  Benjamin  M. 
Miller,  once  rector  of  St.  Paul's  Church,  Norfolk, 
Va.,  who  presented  it  to  the  parish." 

Norfolk  Academy  (Bank  and  Charlotte  Street). — 
Incorporated  Jan.  15,  1804.  Present  building  erected 
1840;  a  gem  of  architectural  beauty,  modeled  after 
the  Temple  of  Theseus  at  Athens.  Prior  to  the  Revo- 
lution the  site  belonged  to  St.  Paul's  Church.  This 
building  was  the  edifice  in  which  Poe,  the  famous 
American  poet,  delivered  his  last  lecture. 

Thomas  Moore's  House    (End  of  East  Main  Street). 

A  deserted  dormer-windowed  house,  where  the  Irish 
poet  is  said  to  have  lived.  While  in  Norfolk,  it  is 
claimed  that  Moore  wrote  the  first  part  of  ''Lalla 
Rookh ' '  and  the  poem  associated  with  Lake  Drum- 
mond  in  the  middle  of  the  Dismal  Swamp. 

It  is  said  a  young  man  who  had  lost  his  mind  upon 
the  death  of  his  sweetheart  had  suddenly  disappeared 
and  was  never  heard  of  afterwards.  In  his  ravings 
he  declared  firmly  that  the  girl  was  not  dead  but  had 
gone  to  the  Dismal  Swamp.  Upon  this  supposition,  it 
was  believed  that  the  young  man  had  wandered  into 
this  wilderness  and  had  starved  to  death  among  the 
morasses  of  the  Swamp.  Upon  this  story,  Moore  based 
his  poem,  given  as  follows: 


—  27  — 

The  Lake  of  the  Dismal  Swamp. 

"They  made  her  a  grave  too  cold  and  damp 

For  a  soul  so   warm  and   true  ; 
And  she's  gone  to  the  lake  of  the  Dismal  Swamp, 
Where  all  night  long,  by  a  tire-fly  lamp, 

She   paddles    her    white   canoe. 

"And    her    fire-fly    lamp    I    soon   shall    see, 

And   her   paddle   I    soon   shall    hear ; 
Long  and  loving  our  life  shall   be, 
And   I'll    hide   the   maid   in   a   cypiess   tree, 

When  the  footstep  of  death  is  near  I" 

Away  to  the  Dismal   Swamp  he  speeds  ; 

His    path    was    rugged   and    sore ; 
Through   tangled  juniper,   beds    of   reeds. 
Through    many   a    fen,    where    the    serpent    feeds. 

And   man  never   trod   before. 

And  when   on  the  earth   he  sank  to   sleep, 

If   slumber   his   eyelids   knew, 
lie    lay   where   the    deadly   vine    doth    weep 
Its    venomous    tear    and    nightly    steep. 

The   flesh   with   blistering   dew  I 

And  near  him  the  she-wolf  stirred  the  brake, 
And   the    coppersnake   breathed   in   his    ear, 

Till  he  starting  cried,  from  his  dream  awake, 

"Oh  I   when  shall   I   see   the  dusty   lake, 
And   the    white    canoe   of   my    dear !" 

He  saw  the  lake  and  the  meteor  bright 

Quick    over 'its   surface   played — 
"Welcome  1"   he  said  ;    "my  dear  one's   light !" 
And   the  dim   shore  echoed   for   many   a   night. 

The  name  of  the  death-cold  maid. 

Till  he   hollowed  a  boat  of  the  birchen  bark, 

Which   carried  him   off  from   shore  ; 
Far   he    followed    the    meteor    spark ; 
The    wind    was    high    and    the    clouds    were    dark. 

And  the  boat  returned  no  more. 

But   oft   from   the   Indian   hunter's   camp, 

This  lover   and   maid   so   true, 
Are  seen  at   the  hour  of  midnight  damp, 
To  cross  the  lake  by   a  fire-fly  lamp, 

And  paddle   their   white   canoe. 

The  Dismal  Swamp  covers  an  area  of  800  or  1,000 
square  miles.  Before  the  war  attempts  were  made  to 
reclaim  it,  and  within  the  last  few  years  much  has 
been  accomplished  in  this  direction.     Many  farms  have 


—  28  — 

been  established  here,  one  containing  4,000  acres  and 
another  1,000  acres.  The  soil  is  the  richest  and  most 
proiluctive   in  the  world. 

A  canal  traverses  the  eastern  i)art  of  it,  connecting 
Chesapeake  Bay  with  the  sounds  of  North  Carolina. 
Near  the  center,  three  miles  west  of  the  canal,  is 
Lake  Drummond,  18  miles  from  Norfolk.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  the  entire  swamp  could  be  reclaimed  at  an 
expense  of  $4,000,000,  in  which  case  an  annual  revenue 
could  be  obtained  from  the  timber  amounting  to  $100,- 

000  and  nt  least  $2,000,000  from  agricultural  products. 
A  splendid  ])lace  for  hunting  and  fishing. 

Edgar  Allan  Poe  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life 
in  Virginia  and  frequently  visited  Norfolk.  lie  was  a 
student  at  the  University  of  Virginia  in  182G.  Sept. 
IS,  1849,  he  wrote  from  Kichmond  to  his  mother-in- 
law,  as  follows: 

"I  lectured  at  Norfolk  on  ^Monday  and  cleared  enough  to 
settle    my    bill    here    at    the    Madison    House,    with    .$2    ovei-. 

1  had  a  highly  fashionable  audience,  l)ut  Noi-folk  is  a  small 
place   and   there   were   two   exhibitions    the   same   night." 

Sept.  13,  1840,  the  Norfolk  Argus  publisluMl  his  now 
well   known   poem,   "Lenorc,''   appended   herewith: 

Lenore. 

Ah,  broken  is   the  golden   bowl !   the  spirit  flown  forever  I 
Let  the  bell  toll  ! — a  saintly  soul  floats  on  the  Stygian  river  ; 
And,  Guy  De  Vere,  hast  thou  no  tear  '. — weep  now  or  never 

more  ! 
See  !  on  yon  drear  and  rigid  bier  low  lies  thy  love,  T.enore  ! 
Come !    let    the    burial    rite    be    read — the    funeral    song    be 

sung  ! — 
An  anthem  for  the  queenliest  dead  that  ever  died  so  young — 
A  dirge  for  her  the  doubly  dead  in  that  she  died  so  young. 

"Wretches!   ye  loved  her  for  her  wealth  and  hated  her   for 

her   pride, 
"And    when    she   fell    in   feeble   health,    ye   blessed   her— that 

she  died  ! 
"How   f<1i(t11   the   ritual,    then,   be   read  !   the   reciuiem   how   be 

sung 
"Hy   you — by   yours,    the   evil    eye — by   yours,    the   slanderous 

tongue 


29  — 


"That  did  to  death  the  iunotence  that  died,  and  died  so 
young  :" 

Peccarimus  '.    but   rave   not   thus!   and   let   a   Sabbath   song 
(Jo  up  to  (iod  so  solemnly  that  dead  may  feel  no  wrong  ! 
The   sweet   Lenore  hath   '•gone  before"   with   Hope,   that  flew 

beside, 
Leaving  thee  wild  for  the  dear  child  that  should  have  been 

thy    bride — 
For  her,  the  fair  and  debonair,  that  now  so  lowly  lies. 
The  life  upon  her  yellow  hair  but  not  within  her  eyes — 
The  life  still  there,  upon  her  hair — the  death  upon  her  eyes. 

"Avaunt  !  tonight  my  heart  is  light.  No  dirge  will  I  up- 
raise, 

"But  waft  the  angel  on  her  flight  with  a  Paean  of  old  days  ! 

"Let  no  bell  toll  1 — lest  her  sweet  soul,  mid  its  hallowed 
mirth, 

"Should  catch  the  note,  as  it  doth  float  up  from  the  damned 
Earth. 

"To  friends  above,  from  friends  below,  the  indignant  ghost 
is   riven — 

"From   Hell   unto  a  high  estate  far  up  within  the  Heaven — 

"From  grief  and  groan,  to  a  golden  throne,  beside  the  King 
of   Heaven." 

Another  •  famous  visitor  to  Norfolk  was  General 
Lafayette,  who  with  George  Washington,  received  a 
public  ovation  here  in  1824.  In  1837  Louis  Napoleon 
Bonaparte,  subsequently  Emperor  of  France,  was  en- 
tertaine*!  at  French  's  Hotel,  Main  and  Ciiurch  streets, 
and  in  1844  Henry  Clay  visited  the  city. 

In  1855  yellow  fever  frightfully  devastated  Norfolk, 
St.  Paul 's  Church  alone  furnishing  seventy-six  vic- 
tims. St.  Mary 's  Church  was  converted  into  a  tem- 
porary hospital.  This  edifice  still  stands,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  churches  in  the  south,  a  monument  to 
the  faithful  priest,  who  during  this  awful  scourge 
ministered  to  the  sick  and  dying 

The  Civil  War  proved  still  another  factor  that  inter- 
fered with  the  growth  of  the  city. 

Confederate  Monument. — At  the  intersection  of  Main 
Street  and  Commercial  Place.  This  statue  commemo- 
rates the  memory  of  the  Confederate  Soldiers  who  died 
for  the  ''lost  cause." 


—  30-. 

iThe  points  of  interest  at  surrounding  towns  are 
fully  described  in  separate  chapters,  and  directions  for 
reaching  these  places  will  be  found  in  the  '  *  Itiner- 
ary, ' '  Part  III.  There  are  many  historical  places  of 
interest  within  an  hour's  ride  of  Norfolk,  which  every 
tourist  should  visit.  The  cars  going  to  the  various 
suburbs  of  Norfolk  are  given  as  follows: 

Ghent. — The  west  end  residence  district.  To  see  this 
part  of  the  city,  take  City  Park  and  Atlantic  City 
cars,  or  the  City  Park,  Ghent  and  Lambert 's  Point 
cars. 

Brambleton. — East  end  residence  district.  Take 
east-bound  Brambleton,  Norfolk  and  Western,  and  Nor- 
folk and  Southern  cars. 

Edgewater. — Take  west-bound  Lambert's  Point  cars 
which  leave  City  Parks, 

Berkley. — Take  cars  on '  City  Hall  Avenue,  near 
Granby  Street,  or  Ferry  at  foot  of  Commercial  Place. 

Portsmouth. — Take  Ferry,  foot  of  Commercial  Place. 

Norfolk  Navy  Yard  and  Marine  Hospital. — Take 
Ferry  to  Portsmouth  and  electric  car  to  the  yards. 

Exposition   G-rounds. — Take   electric   cars  id  barn. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

PORTSMOUTH,     THE     GOVERNMENT'S     WORKSHOP. 

Portsmouth  is  only  a  few  minutes'  ride  across  the 
Elizabeth  River.  The  principal  attractions  to  be  seen 
are  the  Norfolk  Navy  Y^rds,  Trinity  Church  and  the 
Confederate  Monument.  The  business  of  the  city  is 
largely  dependent  upon  the  industries  represented  by 
the  Navy  Yard.  Many  residents  are  also  employed  in 
Norfolk   and  surrounding  places. 

History  records  the  fact  that  Ralph  Lane  landed 
near  the  town  of  Chesapeake,  near  Portsmouth,  in  1586. 
During  the  Revolution  both  Benedict  Arnold  and 
Cornwallis  were  in  Portsmouth. 

Norfolk  Navy  Yard  (Open  to  Visitors  During  Exposi- 
tion from  9  a.  m.  to  5  p.  m.  Except  Sunday). 

Both  cities  lay  claim  to  this  important  government 
industry.  Electric  cars  stop  in  front  of  the  Ports- 
mouth Ferry,  and  connect  with  the  Yards.  At  the 
entrance,  the  visitor  is  instructed  to  repair  to  the 
office,  where  a  pass  will  be  issued  to  enter  the  grounds. 
Nearly  3,000  men  are  employed  here,  and  the  annual 
pay  roll  amounts  to  $2,500,000.  The  Yards  have 
cost  the  government  more  than  $20,000,000,  and  the 
annual  repairs  and  improvements  amount  to  $3,000,000. 
A  dry-dock  is  under  course  of  construction  and  with 
the  marine  barracks  when  completed,  will  make  this 
station  the  greatest  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  Here  are 
located  mammoth  machine-shops  and  woodworking  es- 
tablishments where  the  interior  fittings  of  ships  are 
—  31  — 


—  32  — 

('(jiistiueted.  Men-of-war  are  sent  to  these  yards  for 
overhauling  and  general  repairs. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Elizabeth  River  is  the 
Training  Station,  which,  with  the  exc'e])tion  of  the  one 
at  Newport,  R.  I.,  is  the  largest  in  the  Unite<l  States. 
Here  apprentice  seamen  receive  their  training,  four 
'months  being  the  limit  for,  recruits.  The  old  men-of- 
war,  Franklin  and  Richmond,  have  been  fitted  up  as 
receiving-ships  and  three  converted  yachts,  the  Siren, 
Hornet  and  Restler,  and  a  sailing  yacht,  the  Eagle, 
are  used  for  giving  the  recruits  actual  experience  in 
handling  a  ship  and  in  loading  and  manning  guns. 

An  artificer's  school  is  also  attached  to  this  branch 
of  the  service,  where  recruits  receive  a  thorough  me- 
chanical training.  On  the  Franklin,  a  bandsmen 's 
school  is  held  where  enlisted  musicians  are  trained.  A 
Reserve  Flotilla  station  is  maintained  south  of  the 
Training  Station.  The  torpedo-boat  crews  are  quar- 
tered aboard  the  U.  S.  ship  Atlanta. 

Tourists  are  sometimes  allowed  to  visit  men-of-war, 
at  certain  hours  on  special  days  allotted  for  that  pur- 
pose. 

Here  at  these  yards  seven  ships  have  been  built  for 
the  nav,y,  the  battleship  Texas  and  the  cruiser  Raleigh 
being  the  two  latest  ones.  The  staunch  old  Constella- 
tion was  built  and  launched  here;  also  the  Alliance, 
the  Richmond  and  tlie  Jamestown. 

More  than  thirty  large  buildings  are  included  in  the 
yards.  There  are  three  dry-docks  and  one  wet-dock 
large  enough  for  several  ships.  The  oldest  one  is  built 
of  stone  and  was  begun  Dec.  1,  1827.  An  interesting 
sight  is  an  enormous  pile  of  anchors  dating  back  to  the 
beginning  of  the  navy.  The  yard  contains  859  1-10 
acres  in  Portsmouth  and  91  acres  in  Norfolk.     It  was 


—  33  — 

given  the  name  ' '  Norfolk  Navy  Yard ' '  to  distinguish 
it  from  the  one  at  Portsmouth,  N,  H. 

Trophy  Park. — The  first  object  that  attracts  the 
visitor  upon  entering  the  yards  is  the  Park,  which 
separates  the  offices  from  the  workshops  and  wharves. 

Here  may  be  seen  naval  guns  of  many  nations,  types 
and  ages.  Spanish  guns  from  men-of-war  belonging 
to  Admiral  Cervera's  fleet;  relics  and  trophies  from 
the  Eevolutionary  War,  the  War  of  1812,  and  from  the 
Mexican,  Civil  and  Spanish-American  Wars,  including 
guns  captured  at  Tien-Tsin  during  the  Boxer  troubles, 
in   1900; 

Specimens  of  armor  from  the  Confederate  ram  Texas 
and  the  Albemarle  are  grouped  about  the  flag-staff  in 
the  center  of  the  Park.  The  torpedo  tubes  with  two 
torpedoes  captured  with  the  Reina  Mercedes  can  be 
seen  at  one  end  of  the  Park,  while  nearby  are  two 
guns  from  the  famous  U.  S.  ship  Huron,  wrecked  ofi; 
the  North  Carolina  coast. 

The  large  cannon-ball  made  entirely  of  stone, 
brought  from  Constantinople,  is  also  most  interesting. 
It  represents  the  first  cannon-balls  ever  used  and  it 
would  fill  the  muzzle  of  the  largest  gun  now  in  exist- 
ence. Four  carronades  bearing  the  words,  ' '  Republica 
de  Yucatan"  were  captured  in  the  war  with  Mexico. 
Four  larger  ones  were  taken  on  the  lakes  from  the 
British  during  the  War  of  1812. 

In  1861  the  Federal  troops  evacuated  the  yards  and 
the  IT.  S.  battleship  Pennsylvania  was  burned  to  the 
water  's  edge. 

Naval  Hospital. — About  one  mile  from  the  Navy 
Yard.  The  grounds  surrounding  the  hospital  cover 
seventy-five  acres.  Admiral  Cervera  was  held  here  on 
parole   as  a    prisoner    of  war.     A   monument   on   the 


—  34  — 

grounds  marks  the  sit(>  of  old   Fort   Xelson  of  "Rovoln- 
tionary  famo. 

The  granite  hospital  building  was  erected  1835-6. 
The  grounds  were  acquired  by  the  Navy  Department 
in  1827.  The  building  has  been  used  for  hosi)ital  pur- 
})Oses  during  every  American  war  that  has  occurred 
since     its     erection.      A     c(>meterv    is    attaclied    to     the 


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^^"^ 

TIUMTV    CIU'KCII,    PORTSMOUTH 

grounds  where  a  Diuniber  of  prominent  men  are  buried. 
Nearly  sixty  Confederate  soldiers  and  sailors  are  also 
interred  in  these  grounds,  A  monument  erected  to 
tlie  memory  of  soldiers  and  sailors  buried  here  was  un- 
veiled by  President  Roosevelt,  Memorial  Day,  May 
30,  1906. 

Trinity  Church  (High  and  Court  Street). — This  beau- 
tiful edifice  was  erected  1762;  rebuilt  1829  and  remod- 


—  35  — 

elerl  in  1893.  During  the  Civil  War  the  building  was 
occupied  by  Federal  troops  as  a  hospital  and  during 
the  War  of  1812  it  was  converted  into  barracks. 

The  original  roof  still  remains,  blackened  with  age. 
In  the  old  churchyard  are  many  tombs  witli  quaint 
inscrijitions  reminding  one  of  the  vicissitudes  of  time 
and  war.  Tlere  lies  buried  Commodore  Barron,  who 
during  the  War  of  1812  was  suspended  from  the  service 
and  later  restored,  subsequently  (1820)  killing  Commo- 
dore Decatur  in  a  duel. 

Confederate  Monument  (at  the  intersection  of  High 

and  Court  Streets,   opposite  Trinity  Church). — At  the 

base  of  the  shaft  on  each  corner  is  a  life  size  figure  of 

a  Confederate  soldier,  each  one  representing  a  different 

division   of  the  service.     A  tablet  upon  the  monument 

reads: 

"In  memory  of  INIaj.  F.  W.  Tett,  C.  Sa.,  to  whose 
laboi'  and  devotion  tlie  prection  of  this  monument 
is    principally    due." 

Quaint  old  Portsmouth,  with  its  historic  associations, 
is  still  an  important  factor  in  the  life  of  the  government 
and  its  work  shops,  its  navy  yard,  hospital,  training 
scliools  aiid  its  old  historic  church  possess  a  charm  tliat 
will  attract  visitors  for  years  to  come. 


CHAPTER  V, 

NEWPORT    NEWS,    THE    WORLD'S    GREATEST    SHIPYARD. 

Newport  News  has  a  population  of  some  30,000  peo- 
ple. It  was  early  known  as  **New  Pork  Neuces. " 
Locally,  Newport  is  pronounced  "New'put. " 

It  was  near  tliis  point  that  the  despondent  James- 
town  settlers   first   caught   sight   of    Lord   Delaware's 


DRY   DOCKS,    NEWPORT    NEWS 

ships  of  relief  in  IGIO.  The  arrival  of  this  timely  aid 
gave  the  colonists  new  courage  and  they  turned  back 
to  tlieir  abandoned  homes,  thus  saving  the  colony  and 
insuring  its  future;  a  future  so  pregnant  with  signifi- 
cant events. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railway  has  its  terminus 
here  and  seventeen  steamship  lines  connect  with  this 
—  36  — 


—  37  — 

city.  Newport  News  is  on  Hampton  Koacls,  where 
hundreds  of  ships  coal.  As  much  as  350,000  tons  of 
coal  arrive  here  in  a  month.  Electric  lines  connect 
with  Hampton,  Old  Point  and  Fortress  Monroe  and 
boats  reach  Norfolk  in  fifty  minutes.  Exposition 
grounds  in  twenty  minutes,  Jamestown  Island  and 
Yorktown  in  a  few  hours.  Among  other  important  in- 
dustries located  here  are  iron  and  brass  foundries, 
shirt  and  shoe  factories,  planing  mills,  breweries  and 
ice  plants. 

Ship  Yards. — The  chief  point  of  interest,  however, 
is  the  greatest  ship  building  yards  in  America  and 
the  greatest  dry-dock  in  the  world.  The  plant  cost 
over  $15,000,000,  and  although  a  private  concern,  some 
of  the  largest  American  battleships  have  been  built 
here;  in  fact,  almost  any  day  of  the  year  ships  in  all 
stages  of  construction  can  be  seen.  Cruisers,  battle- 
ships, submarines  and  torpedo  boats  are  constantly 
being  turned  out.  Seven  thousand  five  hundred  men 
are  employed,  and  the  weekly  pay  roll  amounts  to 
$60,000.  The  largest  derrick  in  the  world  is  also  lo- 
cated here.  It  easily  handles  300,000  pounds  at  one 
time. 

Half  a  day  can  be  devoted  to  Newport  News  if  time 
is  pressing,  and  electric  car  can  be  taken  from  this 
point  for  Hampton. 


CHAPTER  VI, 

HAMPTON,    THE   OLDEST    CONTINUOUS    SETTLEMENT    IN    THE 
UNITED     STATES. 

When  the  English  first  visited  Virginia,  Humpton 
was  an  Indian  vilhige,  called  Keeoughtan.  The  city 
is  on  the  waters  of  Hampton  Roads,  nearly  opposite 
the  Exposition  site.  It  is  claimed  to  be  the  oldest 
eontinnons  English  settlement  in  America. 

Driven  by  a  gale  into  the  Chesapeake,  the  original 
expedition    with    Capt.    John    Smith    landed    at    Cape 


SOLDIERS"  HOME,  HAMPTON 
Henry,  but  being  attacked  by  the  savages,  they  sailed 
up  Hampton  Roads  and  anchored  off  Old  Point,  May 
10,  1607,  remaining  in  the  vicinity  of  Hampton  for 
several  days  before  proceeding  up  the  James,  Settle- 
ment was  effected  by  Lord  De  La  Warr,  July,  1610, 
He  was  re-enforced  in  May,  1611,  by  Sir  Thomas  Dale. 
In  1616,  John  Rolfe  wrote  that  the  town  had  twenty 
inhabitants.  In  1619,  the  House  of  Burgesses  were 
petitioned  to  change  the  heathen  name  of  Kecough- 
tan  to  one  more  befitting  a  community  of  Christians, 
so  Elizabeth  City  was  substituted,  but  no  act  of  legis- 
-  38  — 


—  39  — 

latioii    can    entirely    obliterate    the    imprint    of    these 
early  savages  from  our  boundaries. 

"Their  name  is  on   your   waters, 

Ye    may    not    wash    it    out. 
Their   memory    lieth  on   your   hills, 

Their  baptism  on   your  shore. 
Your   everlasting   rivers    speal\ 

Their    dialect    of   yore." 

In   1623,  there  lived  within  the  parish  John  Laydeu 
and  his  wife,  Anna,  the  first  English  couple  married  in 
Virginia.     One  of  their  three  daughters,  Virginia,  was 
the  first  English  child  born  in  America,  after  Virginia 
Dare,  of  Roanoke  Colony.     The  present  town  of  Hamp- 
ton was  founded  in  1680  by  an  act  of  the  Legislature. 
The    tourist    visiting   Virginia   for    the    first    time    is 
early  impressed  with  the  number  of  historic  churches, 
nearly   all    of   them   surrounded   by    the   sacred    God's 
Acre.     As  little  by  little  the  dauntless  colonists  pene- 
trated the  wilderness,  the  first  permanent  public  build- 
ing to  be  erected  was  always  a  church.     In  fact,  every 
ten  miles  a   place  of  worship   was  established.     Many 
of  these  edifices  have   long  since   been   destroyed  and 
forgotten,    but    a    number     of     them     have     remained 
through  the  centuries  of  war  and  famine,  standing  to- 
day,   in    beauty    of    architecture,    the    equal    of    their 
English  prototypes.     One  of  the  most  interesting  and 
perhaps   the   most   picturesque   of   these    early   colonial 
churches  is  the  one  at  Hampton. 

St.  John's  Church  (Queen's  Street). — This  parish 
was  named  after  Princess  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  King 
James  I,  1620.  The  first  rector  was  the  Eev.  William 
Mease.  Not  a  trace  of  the  first  church  remains,  except 
a  few  trees  on  the  land  now  belonging  to  the  Tabb 
family,  north  of  the  road  leading  to  Old  Point,  which 
was  once  part  of  the  glebe  lands  of  the  church.  In 
1716  one  writer  savs  the  town  had  about  one  hundred 


-40  — 

inhabitants,  but  no  church;  services  being  held  in  the 
Court  House. 

What  is  known  as  the  second  church  existed  at  that 
time  at  Pembroke  Farm,  a  mile  west  of  Hampton.  It 
was  built  about  1667.  The  site  with  adjoining  land, 
consisting  of  nine  acres,  still  belongs  to  the  parish. 
Here  are  the  tombs  of  some  of  the  oldest  inhabitants, 
many  of  the  stones  being  of  black  marble.  Among 
them  is  one  erected  in  1697  to  the  memt)ry  of  Admiral 
Neville.  It  is  the  intention  to  nse  the  old  graveyard 
as  a  cemetery  for  the  parish,  after  St.  John's  Church- 
yard becomes  no  longer  available. 

The  present  church  building  is  the  third  one  built 
in  the  parish.  Erected  1728  and  built  of  bricks  made 
by  Henry  Cary.  It  seems  to  have  remained  undamaged 
during  the  Eevolutionary  War,  but  June  24-27,  1813, 
the  town  and  church  was  sacked  by  the  British  under 
Admiral  Cockburn,  the  church  being  turned  into  bar- 
racks. It  was  subsequently  repaired  and  renamed  St. 
John  's  Church,  1827,  and  consecrated  by  Bishop  K.  C. 
Moore,  Friday,  Jan.  8,  1830. 

Many  of  the  churches  in  this  vicinity  were  occu- 
pied by  troops  during  the  Civil  War  or  suffered 
through  fire  or  depredations  and  St.  John 's  Church 
proved  no  exception.  On  the  night  of  Aug.  7,  1861, 
Hampton  and  its  venerable  old  church  were  destroyed 
by  fire.  In  proof  of  their  loyalty,  the  inhabitants  un- 
der Gen.  Magruder  set  fire  to  their  own  homes  to  pre- 
vent them  from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the  Federal 
troops,  and  in  the  general  conflagration  that  followed 
old  St.  John's  took  fire  also.  The  original  walls  stood, 
however,  and  the  structure  was  again  restored,  1868-70. 
A  tablet  upon  the  church  gives  a  short  history  of  the 
edifice,  followed  by  this  quotation  from  Psalms: 


—  41  — 

"O,  give  thanks  unto  the  Lord,  for  he  is  good ;  for  his 
mercy  endiireth  forever."  Rev.  C.  Braxton  Brj-an,  Rector, 
January,  1904." 

In  1903  the  Association  for  the  Preservation  of  Vir- 
ginia Antiquities,  presented  to  the  church  a  beautiful 
memorial   stained  glass  window  in  honor  of  the   Colo- 


ST.  JOHNS  CHURCH,  HAMPTON 

nial  clergy  of  Elizabeth  City  parish.  One  of  these 
earl}^  (1610-1620)  ministers,  Kev.  Wm.  Mease,  is  said 
to  have  served  the  original  Jamestown  Church  after 
the  death  of  ''Good  Maister  Hunt." 

Communion  Service. — The  church  has  in  its  jDosses- 
sion  a  communion  service  made  in  Lbndon  in  1618  and 
presented  by  Mary  Eobinson  to  a  church  at  South 
Hampton  Hundred.  When  this  edifice  was  destroyed 
in  1622,  Gov.  Yeardly  took  the  service  to  Jamestown 


—  42  — 

and  it  was  later  given  to  Elizabeth  City  Parish,  -where 
it  has  since  been  in  constant  use. 

Churchyard. — Tlie  graveyard  of  St.  Jolin's  is  excep- 
tionally beautiful  and  the  inscriptions  on  tlie  tombs 
attract  the  attention  of  all  visitors  to  tliis  picturescjue 
little  city.  At  one  side  of  the  church  is  a  neat,  digni- 
fied statue  in  memory  of  the  Confederate  dead. 

Hampton  Normal  and  Agricultural  Institute  for 
negroes   was   established   18(J8  and   is   one   of   tlie  most 


CLASS    IN    DAIRYING. 


important  colleges  for  the  colored  race  in  America. 
Rev.  Hollis  B.  Frissell,  D.  D.,  LL.  D.,  is  the  principal. 
The  object  of  the  school  is  to  prepare  academic,  me- 
chanical and  agricultural  teachers  for  the  Negro  and 
Indian  races.  Over  one  hundred  and  twenty  officers 
and  teachers  are  employed  and  the  attendance  exceeds 
1,200;  1,310  graduates  have  been  sent  out  from  the 
school  and   over  5,000  under-graduates. 

The  first  cargo  of  negro  slaves  was  landed  not  far 
from  Hampton  in  1619,  a  significant  fact,  when  it  is 
considered    that    this    is    the    first   institution    founded 


43 


for  the  industrial  training  of  their  emancipated  de- 
scendants. Over  35  per  cent  of  the  graduates  are 
either  farmers  or  mechanics,  and  the  Institute  points 
Avith  pride  to  the  fact  that  Booker  T.  Washington's 
name  is  among  the  list  of  her  alumni. 

In   1878,   Indians   were   also   admitted,   120   of  whom 


CLASS    IN    WEAVING. 

are  now^  in  attendance.  The  IT.  S.  Government  an- 
nually pays  $167  for  the  board  and  clothing  of  each 
of  these  Indian  pupils.  The  state  contributes  $10,- 
000  annually  to  the  support  of  the  school  for  agricul- 
tural and  military  training  and  $1,500,000  has  already 
been  secured  as  an  endowment  fund.  There  are  60 
buildings,  including  shops,  where  eighteen  trades  are 
taught.     The  farm  consists  of  800  acres. 

Symms-Eaton  Free  School. — The  oldest  free  school 
in  America  being  founded  in  1634  in  memory  of  Benj. 
Symms  and  Thos.  Eaton,  who  endowed  it.  This  school, 
located  at  Hampton,  is  now  a  part  of  the  regular  pub- 
lic school  svstem. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

OLD    POINT    COMFORT,    AND    FORTRESS    MONROE,    AMERICA'S 
GIBRALTAR. 

Having  been  driven  from  Cape  Henry  by  the  sav- 
ages in  1607,  the  original  explorers  who  later  settled 
at  Jamestown,  weighed  anchor  in  the  shelter  of  this 
harbor,  which,  in  thankfulness  for  protection  from 
the  storm  at  sea,  they  named  ''Point  Comfort." 

Palatial  steamers  touch  at  the  Point  on  their  way 
from  Cape  Charles  to  Norfolk  and  from  northern  ports, 
for  Old  Point  is  a  resort  whose  fame  is  world  wide. 
Thousands  of  tourists  are  entertained  annually  at  the 
Hotel  Chamberlain,  which  has  been  the  scene  of  many 
a  noted  diplomatic  and  social  function.  Located  di- 
rectly :on  the  waters  of  \  Hampton  Roads,  the  glimmer- 
ing lights  of  the  Exposition  are  discernible  directly 
opposite. 

Fortress  Monroe. — History  records  that  as  early  as 
1611  there  was  a  fort  at  Point  Comfort  called  ''Fort 
Algernon. ' '  It  was  garrisoned  by  forty  men,  and  con- 
tained seven  iron  cannons.  In  1630,  according  to  one 
historian,  a  larger  and  more  pretentious  fort  was  built. 
These  fortifications  were  augmented  from  time  to  time, 
and  in  1813  the  garrison  numbered  450  men,  who  made 
a  gallant  defense  against  the  invasion  of  the  British 
under  Admiral  Cockburn.  Outnumbered,  however,  the 
Americans  were  forced  to  retreat. 

The   present   fortifications,   commenced   in    1817   and 

completed  in  1875,  embrace  a  parapet  wall  a  mile  and 

a  quarter  long,  enclosing  eighty-six  acres,  and  costing 

$2,258,453.05.     The  fortress  is  partially  washed  by  the 

—  44  — 


—  45  — 

waters  of  Hampton  Eoads,  and  separated  from  the 
mainland  by  a  wide  and  deep  moat.  All  the  latest  dis- 
appearing guns,  and  modern  machinery  of  war  are  here 
in  evidence.  During  the  Civil  War  the  garrison  aided 
the  Federal  men-of-war,  the  battery  at  the  Kip  Eaps 
responding,  in  the  famous  battle  of  the  Monitor  and 
Merrimac. 

The  fortress,  one  of  the  best  equipped  in  America, 
is  the  chief  artillery  station  of  the  United  States  gov- 
ernment, and  is   in  reality  a   practical  school  for   the 


Copyright,   1906,    hy    Clicyne    Studio 
MOAT,   FORTRESS   MONROE 


army  and  navy.  It  has  the  longest  line  of  fortifica- 
tions in  the  world,  and  is  ranked  next  to  Gibraltar  in 
importance. 

Oct.  31,  1828,  Edgar  Allan  Poe,  who  had  enlisted  in 
the  army  as  Edgar  A.  Perry,  was  transferred  from 
Battery  H.  of  the  First  Artillery  at  Fort  Moultrie, 
South    Carolina,    to    Fortress    Monroe.      He    was    made 


—  46  — 

company  clerk  and  assistant  in  the  commissariat  de- 
partment, and  later  promoted  to  tlie  rank  of  sergeant 
major.  April  15,  1829,  he  was  honorably  discharged 
with  the  highest  encomiums  from  the  officers  under 
whom  he  had  served. 

On  the  spacious  parade  grounds  may  be  seen  the 
morning  and  evening  drills  of  the  soldiers,  and  in  the 
park,  and  along  the  walks  are  many  interesting  guns, 
cannon-balls  and  other  relics  from  the  wars  of  the 
past.  It  was  here  that  Jefferson  Davis,  the  President 
of  the  Confederacy,  was  confined  at  the  close  of  the 
Civil  War,  and  it  was  this  fortress  the  Spaniards 
jdanned  to  attack  during  the  Spanish-American  War. 
Its  grim  old  walls  have  witnessed  history  in  the  mak- 
ing, and  the  waters  surrounding  it  have  rocked  the 
very  "Cradle  of  the  Eepublic. " 

Rip  Raps. — (Fort  Wool,  before  the  Civil  War  called 
Ft.  Calhoun.)  This  is  a  fine  granite  fort,  with  earth- 
works within  and  without,  situated  between  Fortress 
Monroe  and  the  Exposition  grounds.  It  is  built  upon 
an  artificial  island,  and  cost  the  government  $16,000,- 
000.  It  commands  the  entrance  to  Chesapeake  Bay, 
and  is  equipped  with  immense  disappearing  guns  and 
the  latest  machinery  for  defense  in  time  of  war.  With 
Fortress  Monroe  and  the  Rip  Raps,  tidewater  Virginia 
is  amply  protected  from  the  assault  of  any  possible 
enemv  bv  water. 


CHAPTER  VITI. 

JAMESTOWN,    THE    CRADLE    OF    THE    REPUBLIC. 

The  Far  East  has  its  Mecca,  Palestine  its  Jerusalem, 
France  its  Lourdes  and  Ital}^  its  Loretto,  but  Amer- 
ica's only  shi-ines  are  her  altars  of  patriotism — the  first 
and  the  most  potent  being  Jamestown;  Jamestown, 
the  sire  of  Virginia,  and  Virginia  the  motlier  of  this 
great  Republic. 

The  site  of  old  '  Mames  Towne''  was  originally  a 
peninsula  jutting  into  the  James  River,  some  forty 
miles  from  its  mouth.  Time,  however,  has  cut  the 
narrow  neck  of  land  connecting  it  with  the  mainland, 
leaving  it  strande<l  and  isolated,  the  prey  of  the  winds 
and  the  waves,  which  have  slowly  been  obliterating 
its  shores.  An  early  colonial  secretary  records  that 
the  site  was  originally  about  two  and  three-quarters 
miles  in  length,  and  about  one  and  one-quarter  miles 
in  width,  and  in  some  places  only  300  yards  wide. 
The  peninsula  crossed  what  is  now  known  as  Sandy 
Bay. 

The  place '  where  the  brave  explorers  landed,  now 
over  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  the  shore,  lies 
buried  under  the  waters  of  the  James  River.  It  is 
estimated  to  be  about  1,500  feet  west  of  the  present 
wharf. 

The  government  has  just  completed  a  permanent 
sea-wall  around  the  entire  island  to  protect  it  from  the 
ravages  of  the  river.  It  has  been  estimated  that  about 
twenty  acres  have  been  washed  away.  Twenty-three 
acres,  whero  most  of  the  original  town  was  built,  has 
—  47  — 


—  48  — 

been  deeded  to  the  Association  for  the  Preservation 
of  Virginia  Antiquities  by  its  former  owners,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Edw.  E.  Barney.  The  Association  has  endeavored 
to  protect  the  old  ruins,  and  the  historic  ivy-mantled 
tower  from  further  devastation,  and  many  excavations 
have  been  made  under  its  auspices. 

A  concise  description  and  history  of  the  settlement 
at  Jamestown  has  been  given  in  one  of  the  preliminary 
chapters.     As  the   Exposition  was  inaugurated  as  the 


CHURCH  TOWER  RU1N8.   .TAMKSToWN 


third  ccntounial  of  that  event,  this  history  has  been 
introduced  at  the  beginning  of  this  narrative,  but  be- 
fore visiting  the  Island,  the  tourist  should  again  read 
it  over  carefully. 

The  Jamestown  Church. — History  records  that  the 
first  church,  "a  homely  thing,  like  a  barn,  set  upon 
crotchets,  covered  with  rafts,  sedge  and  earth,"  was 


49 


burned,  with  the  settlement,  about  eight  months  after 
its  erection. 

A  second  church,  within  the  entrenchments  still  in 
evidence,  was  built  in  time  for  the  arrival  of  Lord 
Delaware  in  IGIO.  The  communion  table  was  of  black 
walnut,  the  chancel,  pulpit  and  pews  of  cedar  and  the 
*' front  hewn  hollow  like  a  canoe." 

The  day  of  Delaware's  arrival,  attended  by  a  red- 
coated  guard,  he  repaired  to  this  church,  delivered  an 
address  at  the  close  of  the  sermon  by  Rev.  Richard 
Buck.  The  tliird  church  was  completed  1619  on  the 
site  of  the  present  tower  ruins.  This  edifice  was  evi- 
dently of  frame  construction.  Its  foundations  have 
recently  been  uncarthe(l  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
brick  church. 

The  Rev.  Richard  Buck  also  preached  in  the  third 
church,  and  it  was  here  that  Gov.  Yeardly  called  to- 
gether the  first  Legislative  Assembly  in  the  New 
World. 

The  fourth  cliurch,  represented  by  the  present  tower 
ruins,  was  comj)leted  between  1639  and  1644.  It  was 
built  of  blue  and  red  glazed  bricks,  by  some  claimed 
to  have  been  manufactured  in  the  colony,  and  by 
others  said  to  have  been  imported  from  England.  The 
tower  is  believed  to  have  been  erected  as  much  for 
defense  against  the  Indians  as  for  church  purposes. 

The  original  communion  service,  consisting  of  three 
pieces,  presented  in  1661  by  the  acting  Governor,  is 
now  in  possession  of  the  Bruton  Church  at  Wil- 
liamsburg.    Each  piece  bears  the  inscription: 

"Mixe   not   holy   things   with   profane.      Ex   dono 
francisci    Morrison,    Armiger,    Anno    Demi,     1661." 
In   1676,  during  the  turbulent   days  of  Bacon 's  Re- 
bellion, the  church  belonging  to  the  present  tower  was 
destroyed  with  the  town  by  fire.     After  the  rebellion, 


—  50  — 

the  church  was  again  rebuilt,  but  about  the  end  of  the 
seventeenth  century  it  was  deserted.  It  is  the  inten- 
tion of  the  Colonial  Dames  of  America  to  erect  r 
memorial  church  over  the  site  of  the  old  walls,  which 
recently  have  been  unearthed.  The  Colonial  Bell  Asso- 
ciation intends  to  hang  a  bell  in  the  old  tower,  and 
the  Episcopal  Church  of  America  will  place  a  tablet 
within  the  church  in  honor  of  the  first  minister  to 
Jamestown,  the  Eev.  Robert  Hunt. 


PARSON   BLAIR'S  TOMB,   .TAMESTOWN 

The  Graveyard. — Tnunodiately  surrounding  the  old 
church  is  the  graveyard,  which  undoubtedly  was  the 
original  burying  ground  of  the  colonists.  The  wall 
marking  its  boundaries  was  built  early  in  the  eight- 
eenth century.  Beneath  the  nave  and  chancel  of  the 
church,    many   important    colonists    were   laid    to   rest. 


51 


An  ironstone  tablet  bearing  an  impression  of  a  coat- 
of-arms  can  still  be  seen,  as  well  as  the  tombstone  of 
Rev.  John  Clough,  incumbent  during  Bacon's  Rebel- 
lion, who  died  January,  1683.  Among  other  inscrip- 
tions upon  the  gravestones  in  the  churchyard  we  read: 

"Here  lies  William  Sherwood,  that  was  born  in 
the  Parish  of  White  Chappell.  near  London,  a 
great   sinner   waiting   for    a    Joyfull    Resurrection." 

One  of  the  most  interesting  tombs  is  that  of  Parson 
Blair,  minister  at  Jamestown,  founder  and  first  presi- 
dent of  "William  and  Mary  College,  and  rector  of  Bru- 
ton  Church  at  Williamsburg.  He  was  also  a  member 
of  the  Council  and  Commissary  to  the  Bishop  of  Lon- 
don. A  long  Latin  inscription  records  the  good  doc- 
tor's accomplishments.  An  old  sycamore  tree  has 
grown  up  between  his  grave  and  that  of  his  wife, 
Sarah,  shattering  both  tombstones. 

Lady  Prances  Berkeley,  wife  of  the  colonial  gover- 
nor of  that  name,  and  Mrs.  Edward  Ambler,  who  as 
Mary  Cary  was  courted  by  George  Washington,  are 
also  buried  here,  in  the  northeast  corner  of  tlie  yard. 

State  House  Ruins. — The  third  and  fourth  state 
houses,  built  on  the  same  site,  evidently  faced  the 
south,  with  a  square  porch  in  front.  It  was  before  the 
state  house  built  in  1666  (the  third  one)  that  Na- 
thaniel Bacon  brought  his  determined  followers  to  de- 
mand of  Governor  Berkeley  a  commission  to  raise 
troops  to  protect  the  settlers  from  Indian  massacres. 
Thinking  Bacon  had  merely  come  to  revenge  himself 
for  the  repeated  insults  heaped  upon  him,  the  choleric 
governor  rushed  out  to  meet  him,  and  baring  his  breast, 
dramatically  cried:  ''Here,  shoot  me,  'fore  God,  fair 
mark,  shoot!  " 

''Sir,"  replied  Bacon,  "my  sword  shall  rust  in  its 
scabbard  before  even  a  hair  of  vour  head  is  touched. ' ' 


—  52  — 

The  following  year,  the  building  was  burned  by 
Bacon's  men  and  until  the  fourth  State  House  was 
built,  in  1686,  the  Council  were  compelled  to  meet  in 
the  taverns  of  the  town.  The  last  House  was  also  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  169S,  and  the  next  year  the  capital 
was  removed  to  Williamsburg.  The  foundations  of 
these  two  buildings  still  remain,  mute  witnesses  to  the 
struggles  of  our  early  legislators  in  the  arena  of  colo- 
nial politics. 

Ambler  Ruin. — East  of  the  tower  are  the  ruins  of 
the  Jacqueline  Ambler  Mansion.  It  was  burned  during 
the  Civil  War,  rebuilt  and  again  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1896.  This  was  the  home  of  Washington  's  sweetheart, 
Mary  Cary. 

Ludwell  Houses. — Three  ruins  next  to  the  State 
House  mark  the  site  of  houses  owned  by  Philip  Lud- 
well, Governor  of  North  Carolina,  and  third  husband 
of  Governor  Berkeley's  widow.  In  the  cellar  of  the 
one  at  the  end  of  the  row,  the  ''Country  House,"  were 
found  a  pipo,  scissors,  copper  candlestick,  two  bomb- 
shells and  other  curious  articles,  which  have  been  safe- 
guarded under  the  Tower  by  the  Association  for  the 
Preservation  of  Virginia  Antiquities. 

Other  LaiKjmarks. — East  of  the  tower  was  located 
the  later  acquisitions  to  Jamestown,  called  "New 
Towne,"'  supposed  to  have  been  built  during  the  ad- 
ministration of  Governor  George  Yardley,  who  entered 
u])on  his  duties  in  1619. 

Traces  of  a  foundation  have  been  found  less  than 
two  liundred  feet  from  the  wharf,  which  may  have 
been  that  of  the  first  State  House,  built  1630.  Other 
foundations  can  be  seen  along  the  river  bank.  The 
site  of  the  second  fort,  known  as  Turf  Fort,  has  been 
located,  but  no  trace  of  its  foundations  remains.     Em- 


bankments  and  fortifications  of  the  Confederates  are 
clearly  in  evidence.  At  the  east  end  of  the  island  is 
the  Travis  private  burial  ground  only  two  of  the 
stones  remaining  legible. 

From  Jamestown  one  can  proceed  overland  to  the 
most  famous  village  in  the  United  States — Williams- 
burg, seven  miles  distant.  A  macadam  road  has  been 
built    between    the   island   and   Williamsburg,    and    the 


RUINS   COLONIAL   GOVERNOR'S   MANSION 


trip    can   be   made   by   automobile    or    by    stage,    with 
much  pleasure  and  profit. 

It  is  with  a  deep  feeling  of  reverence  that  one  turns 
his  back  upon  these  sacred  ruins,  gaunt  and  bare,  de- 
nuded by  three  centuries  of  cankering  storms,  all  that 
is  left  to  mark  the  feverish  lives  of  the  Nation 's 
founders,  many  of  whom  sleep  in  long  forgotten 
graves. 


—  54  — 


"i-  ^  OJ  o  c  ij 

cu  =2 ""  01 « f^ 


.ti.t:  S^rt  «  o  oj  rt  rt:^  o.t: 


CHAPTEE  IX. 

WILLIAMSBURG,    THE    HISTORIC    CITY    OF    CELEBRITIES. 

Although  the  birth  of  the  Nation  took  place  at 
Jamestown,  it  was  at  Williamsburg  that  the  infant 
government  was  prepared  to  assume  her  position  as  a 
full  fledged  Eepublic. 

The  annals  of  this  little  village,  unbroken  for  over 
two  centuries,  are  pregnant  with  momentous  records  of 
past  achievements.  More  historic  associations  cluster 
around  this  quiet  hamlet  than  any  other  existing 
American  town  or  city.  Here  more  significant  events 
have  taken  place  than  are  recorded  in  the  chronicles 
of  any  other  borough.  Its  streets  are  fairly  haunted 
by  the  personalities  of  the  great;  echoing  and  re- 
echoing with  the  names  of  titled  governors,  eloquent 
orators,  brilliant  statesmen,  astute  theologians  and 
brave    warriors    of    world-wide    reputation. 

Here,  in  stately  magnificence,  ruled  the  representa- 
tives of  the  British  Crown:  Spotswood,  Drysdale, 
Gooch,  Dinwiddie,  Fauquier,  Botetourt  and  Dun- 
more.  Before  the  Colonial  House  of  Burgesses  ap- 
peared Washington,  Patrick  Henry  and  other  emi- 
nent men.  Here  lived  Sir  John  Eandolph,  Edmund 
and  Peyton  Eandolph  and  John  Blair  and  from  his- 
toric old  William  and  Mary  College  graduated  a  host 
of  famous  men,  whose  names  have  been  recorded 
upon  the  scrolls  of  the  nation,  among  them  Jeffer- 
son,  Monroe,    Tyler   and   Chief   Justice    Marshall. 

Suddenly  transported  from  the  bustling  streets  of 
a  twentieth  century  city  to  the  historic  avenues  of 
—  55  — 


—  56  — 

old  Williamsburg,  the  visitor  actually  feels  that  time 
has  turned  back  the  calendar  at  least  two  centuries. 
Here  are  many  of  the  original  structures,  standing  in- 
tact as  they  did  when  occuj^ied  by  our  Colonial  fore- 
fathers. The  sauie  old  brass  knockers  which  echoed 
under  the  impetus  of  many  a  famous  hand  still  re- 
main upon  the  same  old  doors  that  opened  in  hos- 
pitable welcome  to  bj^gone  dignitaries,  warriors  and 
heroes.  Even  the  furnishings  of  many  of  the  present 
homes  consist  of  heirlooms  handed  down  from  one 
generation  to  another;  original  Chippendale  tables 
and  chairs,  silver  candle-sticks,  brass  andirons  and 
countless  other  treasures  that  remind  us  of  the  grand- 
eur of  Colonial  days.  Even  many  of  the  citizens  arc 
direct  descendants  of  the  early  pioneers,  occupying 
the  same  houses,  using  the  same  furniture  and  dis- 
playing in  their  lives  the  same  hospitable  traits  that 
characterized  their  ancestors. 

AVilliamsburg,  by  all  means,  should  be  placed  in  the 
hands  of  the  United  States  Government  as  a  Na- 
tional Koservation.  So  far  as  possible,  the  old  his- 
toric buildings  that  have  been  razed  should  be  re- 
built. The  Governor's  Palace  and  the  original  House 
of  Burgesses  should  be  reconstructed.  The  Speaker 's 
old  chair  and  the  stove,  now  at  the  Eichmond 
Capitol,  should  be  returned  to  Williamsburg.  Histori- 
cal documents,  relics  and  Colonial  furniture  should 
be  gathered  and  used  in  making  these  buildings 
replicas  of  those  existing  during  the  infancy  of  the 
nation.  Public  subscription  would  do  much  toward 
this  end  and  Williamsburg  would  become  the  true 
Mecca  for  every  patriotic  American. 

Teachers  and  pupils  should  be  sent  to  visit  these 
historic    associations.      Washington,   Jefferson,   Patrick 


—  57  — 

Henry  are  now  merely  names  we  conjure  with,  but 
no  one  can  visit  Old  Bruton  Church  or  stand  upon 
the  foundations  of  the  Old  House  of  Burgesses,  with- 
out feeling  the  actual  personality  of  these  men  as 
stamped  upon  the  historic  walls  of  Williamsburg. 
They  would  no  longer  remain  mere  names,  but  would 
become  the  embodiment  of  real  characters  who  lived 
and  fought  and  died  for  their  country. 

Williamsburg,  originally  known  as  Middle  Planta- 
tion, was  laid  out  by  Gov.  Sir  John  Harvey  in  1632. 
In  1648  ' '  Harrop  Parish, ' '  in  James  City,  was  united 
with  Middle  Plantation  and  called  Middletown  Parish 
and  in  1674  Marston  Parish,  York  County,  was  added 
nnd  the  name  changed  to  Bruton  Parish.  The  town 
v/as  named  in  honor  of  the  English  sovereigns,  Wil- 
liam and  M9,ry,  and  boasts  of  a  royal  charter.  In 
1G93,  after  the  desertion  of  Jamestown,  the  Capital 
was  removed  to  Williamsburg  and  Bruton  Church  be- 
came the  direct  successor  of  the  Court  Church  of 
Virginia. 

The  original  plan  provided  for  laying  the  town  out 
in  the  form  of  a  W  and  M,  in  honor  of  William 
and  Mary,  but  it  was  abandoned  as  impracticable. 
The  streets  were  platted  by  Gov.  Francis  Nicholson, 
in  1698,  and  named  in  honor  of  British  associations: 
England,  Scotland,  Ireland,  Duke  of  Gloucester, 
Prince,  Duke,  Queen,  George,  Henry,  York  and  similar 
names. 

With  the  idea  of  keeping  church  and  state  apart, 
the  House  of  Burgesses  was  located  at  one  end  of 
the  Duke  of  Gloucester  street,  and  at  the  other  ex- 
tremity, nearly  a  mile  distant,  William  and  Mary  Col- 
lege. Shaded  by  trees  on  both  sides,  with  lamp-posts 
extending   down   the    center,   the   Duke    of   Gloucester 


—  58  — 

Street,  ninety  feet  wide,  forms  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive village  streets  in  America.  This  was  the 
Colonial  Boulevard  and  down  this  avenue  in  coach, 
berlin  or  chaise  were  often  seen  the  titled  gentry  and 
aristocrats  of  Colonial  Virginia,  on  their  way  to 
Bruton  Church.  This  street  was  named  in  honor  of 
William,  Duke  of  Gloucester,  eldest  son  of  Queen 
Anne. 

Many  a  novelist  of  national  reputation  has  made 
historic  old  Williamsburg  the  scene  of  plot  and  story 
and  visitors  will  renew  many  a  familiar  memory  as 
they  gaze  upon  these  evidences  of  a  past  grandeur. 

Bruton  Church  (Duke  of  G-loucester  Street). — The 
Court  Church  of  Colonial  Virginia  and  the  mother  of 
the  Episcopal  Church  in  America.  In  all  the  broad 
domain  of  the  United  States,  there  is  no  one  build- 
ing surrounded  by  more  historic  associations  than 
this  venerable  old  church.  Here  worshipped  George 
Washington,  Thomas  Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe  and 
Tyler;  here  sat  the  Colonial  Governors  and  the  mem- 
bers of  the  House  of  Burgesses;  the  Harrisons,  Pen- 
dletons,  Patrick  Henry,  the  Randolphs,  the  Lees  and 
many  other  illustrious  dignitaries,  and  from  this  church 
emanated  the  religious,  social  and  political  life  that 
characterized  the  Old  Dominion. 

Bruton  Church,  evidently  named  from  Bruton, 
Somerset,  England,  the  home  of  Gov.  Berkeley,  was 
founded  in  1632.  Prior  to  1665  there  was  a  small 
frame  church  of  which  little  is  known,  but  the  sec- 
ond church,  built  of  brick,  was  erected  on  land  do- 
nated by  Col.  John  Page,  1683.  The  present  struc- 
ture, designed  by  Gov.  Alexander  Spotswood,  was 
built  of  blue  and  red  glazed  brick,  in  1710. 

Here  worshipped   the   Colonial   Governors  and  mem- 


—  so- 
bers of  the  House  of  Burgesses.  A  large  square  pew 
was  provided  for  the  governor  and  a  beautiful  silk 
drapery  hung  from  brass  supports,  secluding  him 
from  the  rest  of  the  congregation  when  desired.  The 
pews  for  the  members  of  the  House  were  placed  to- 
gether across  the  transepts.     This  part  of  the  church 


BRUTON   CHURCH,   WILLIAMSBURG 


was  built  by  and   for   the   members   of   the   House   of 
Burgesses. 

The  old  Register,  badly  mutilated,  found  a  few 
years  ago,  contains  records  from  1662  to  1797.  The 
first  entry  in  the  vestry  book  is  dated  April  18,  1674. 
November  29,  1683,  the  volume  records:^ 'The  Parish 
Church  is  at  length  completed. ' '  The  fees  of  the 
Parish  clerk  were  ''three  pounds  of  tobacco  for 
registering  every  christening  and  burial  in  ye  Par- 
ish."    The  "Sexton  to  have  ten  of  tobacco  for  every 


—  60  — 

grave  that  he  diggs.  ^'  June  5,  1682,  it  was  agreed  that 
the  rector  be  paid  "ye  sum  of  sixteen  thousand,  six 
hundred  and  sixty-six  pounds  of  tobacco  and  casl<:e. " 

In  1699,  the  Jamestown  Church  was  abandoned 
with  the  town,  and  Bruton  Church  became  its  recog- 
nized successor.  The  font,  which  tradition  says  is 
the  one  from  which  Pocahontas  was  baptized,  to- 
gether with  the  Communion  Service,  was  given  into 
the  keeping  of  Bruton  Church,  where  they  still  may 
be  seen.  The  Jamestown  service  consists  of  a  chalice, 
paten  and  alms  basin,  the  two  former  presented  by 
Francis   Morrison. 

Two  other  services  are  in  the  possession  of  the 
Church:  The  Bruton  Parish  Church  Service,  known 
as  the  ''Queen  Anne  Set,"  consisting  of  Cup  and 
Cover,  dated  1686,  and  Paten,  dated  1737;  also  the 
King  George  Service,  consisting  of  Flagon,  dated 
1766,  chalice,  1764,  and  alms  basin,  all  bearing  the 
Eoyal  Arms. 

The  bell  in  the  tower  was  presented  to  the  Parish 
in  1761,  by  James  Tarpley.  Toward  the  close  of  the 
seventeenth  century  the  old  church  seemed  to  be  in 
need  of  constant  repair  and  in  1706  twenty  thousand 
pounds  of  tobacco  were  levied  toward  a  new  struc- 
ture— the  present  one,  which  was  completed  in  1715, 
during   the  ministry  of  Rev.  Mr.  Blair. 

The  churchyard  wall  was  completed  in  1754  by 
Samuel  Spurr,  for  £320.  The  site  for  the  church  and 
graveyard  was  the  gift  of  John  Page,  Nov.  14,  1678, 
the  yard  fronting  on  Duke  of  Gloucester  Street,  for 
three  hundred  feet. 

The  Rev.  W.  A.  R.  Goodwin,  A.  M.,  present  rector 
of  the  church,  has  given  a  graphic  description  of  the 
service  in  Colonial  Days  in  his  ''Historical  Sketches 


—  61  — 

of  Briiton  Church."  which  we  take  the  liberty  of 
quoting,  in  part: 

' '  The  old  bell  breaks  the  stillness  of  the  Sabbath 
morn.  Old  fashioned  coaches  drive  up  to  the  gate, 
and  as  the  door  is  opened  by  a  liveried  footman,  the 
occupants  come  forth  clothed  after  the  last  year's 
fashion  of  the  Court  of  George  the  Third,  Around 
the  door  the  Colonial  gentry  are  assembled.  Fi-om 
Ealeigh  Tavern  there  comes  a  group  of  men  who  are 
representatives  of  the  people  in  the  House  of  Bur- 
gesses. The  Governor 's  carriage  sweeps  down  the 
Palace   Green  and   draws   up  before   the   door. 

''We  pass  into  the  church.  In  spite  of  all  the  care 
we  take,  our  footsteps  resound  through  the  building 
as  we  walk  down  the  flagstone  aisle.  Passing  into 
a  large  square  pew,  we  close  the  door  and  wait.  It 
is  difficult  to  see  those  in  front  of  us.  We  notice  that 
the  men  sit  on  the  north  side  of  the  church,  and  the 
women  on  the  south.  Mr.  Peter  Pelham  enters  and 
ascending  the  *  Organ  loft '  begins  to  play  the  new 
organ,  recently  purchased  in  England  for  the  church 
by  order  of  the  House  of  Burgesses.  The  students 
from  the  College  of  William  and  Mary  enter,  at- 
tended by  one  of  the  Masters,  and  file  into  the  gallery 
assigned  to  them  in  the  south  wing  of  the  church. 
When  the  students  have  all  entered  the  gallery  door  is 
locked,  and  the  key  given  to  the  sexton.  There  is  no 
chance   now  for  them  to  escape. 

' '  By  an  outside  stairway,  leading  up  to  the  gallery  in 
the  north  wing,  we  see  the  servants  of  the  parish- 
ioners enter.  The  door  at  the  west,  leading  from 
the  tower,  opens  and  the  minister,  who  has  vested 
there,  enters  and,  passing  down  the  aisle,  enters  the 
chancel    at   the    east    end    of    the    church.      The    clerk 


—  62  — 

takes  his  place  at  the  desk  below  the  pulpit,  which 
stands  down  in  the  body  of  the  building  at  the  south- 
east corner  of  the   church. 

''And  now,  even  over  the  high  back  pews,  we  can 
see  that  something  is  attracting  general  attention. 
The  tower  door  opens,  and  the  Court  Procession  en- 
ters. His  Excellency,  the  Governor,  passes  down  the 
aisle  to  his  pew.  It  is  in  the  chancel  end  of  the 
church,  on  the  north  side  of  the  aisle;  it  is  elevated 
from  the  floor.  A  silk  canopy  hangs  over  it,  and 
around  it  in  large  letters  of  gold  is  the  Governor's 
name.  The  Counsel  of  state,  and  the  members  of  the 
House  of  Burgesses,  and  the  Surveyor-General  take 
pews  officially  assigned.  The  service  begins.  The 
beadle  keeps  his  eye  upon  the  college  youth  in  par- 
ticular. We  hear  what  sounds  like  an  imprecation 
from  a  nearby  pew  when  the  prayer  is  said  for 
George  the  Third,  and  tlie  Royal  Family,  but  it  is 
discreetly  suppressed. 

"The  service  ended,  the  minister  ascends  the  high 
steps  leading  up  into  the  southeast  corner  pulpit, 
takes  his  text  and  begins  his  sermon.  Those  who 
have  brought  braziers  with  which  to  warm  their  feet 
listen  with  comfort,  if  not  always  with  patience.  The 
benediction  said,  groups  gather  in  the  church  and  ex- 
change greetings,  collect  the  news,  discuss  the  sermon 
and  exchange  opinions,  and  go  to  their  homes."* 

The  so-called  ''modern  improvements"  added  to 
the  church,  commenced  April  18,  1829,  when  it  was 
resolved  to  cut  down  the  pews.  In  1839  the  interior 
of  the  church  was  remodeled  by  building  a  partition 
across  the  interior,  changing  the  shape  from  a  cross 
to  a  T.     The  chancel  was  moved  and  built  out  from 


*Bruton    Parish    Church,    Restored,    by    Rev.    W.    A.    R. 
Goodwin. 


—  63  — 

this  partition,  the  old  pulpit  removed  with  the  flag- 
stone  aisle  and  the  tower  converted  into  a  coal-bin. 

During  the  Civil  War  no  service  was  held  in  the 
edifice,  because  the  authorities  required  that  the 
prayer  for  the  President  of  the  United  States  be  said, 
so  it  was  used  as  a  Confederate  hospital. 

In  1886,  another  innovation  in  the  interior  was  in- 
stalled, the  gallery  in  the  north  end  removed  and 
■other  changes  made.  In  1903,  at  the  suggestion  of 
Kev.  "W.  A.  R.  Goodwin,  the  rector,  it  was  decided 
to  restore  the  church  to  its  original  Colonial  form. 
The  architects,  Messrs,  Barney  and  Chapman,  of  New 
York,  who  donated  their  services,  estimated  the  cost 
of  restoration  to  be  $27,000,  $14,000  for  structural  re- 
pairs and  $13,000  for  restoration  of  the  interior,  and 
May  14,  1905,  the  work  began. 

In  excavating,  twenty-eight  graves  were  found 
under  the  chancel  and  aisles,  some  of  which  were 
identified  and  marked  by  memorial  slabs.  These 
graves  are  indicated  by  numbers  on  the  diagram 
shown  on  page  64. 

Memorials  are  to  be  erected  to  "some  of  the  dis- 
tinguished statesmen  and  Parish  Vestrymen  of  the 
Colonial  and  Revolutionary  period,  who  worshipped  in 
the  building,  or  resided  there  while  representing  the 
people  of  Virginia  in  the  House  of  Burgesses,  or  the 
Sovereign  Authority  of  England,  as  Governors  or  as 
Members  of  the  Council."  His  Majesty,  King  Ed- 
ward, has  contributed  a  memorial  Bible  and  His  Ex- 
cellency, Theodore  Roosevelt,  has  given  a  lectern  to 
hold  it.  Among  other  memorials  will  be  a  silver 
alms  basin  to  Rev.  Robert  Hunt,  the  first  minister  at 
Jamestown. 

Restoration     of     the     clock     formerly     in     the     old 


64  — 


£AST 


hS^iL 


I  I  I  I  I  I 

<S^  (j^s  (^v^ 


xsaAV 


65 


V\'illiaiusburg  Capitol  is  to  be  made  iu  honor  of  the 
House  of  Burgesses.  Tablets  to  the  Colonial  Govern^ 
ors  and  Members  of  the  Council,  Secretaries  of  State, 
Eeceivers  General,  Auditors  General,  to  the  Colonial 
Clergy,  to  the  later  Eectors  and  to  ^the  Eev.  Com- 
missary, James  Blair,  D.D,,  are  to  be  erected.  The 
entrance  gate  to  the  churchyard  is  to  be  a  memorial 
to  General  George  Washington,  who  was  a  regular  at- 
tendent  at  old  Bruton.  The  pews  have  also  been  made 
memorials  to  other  dignitaries  as  follows: 

MEMORIAL    PEWS   IX    BRl'TON   CHURCH. 

Pew  No.  1  (Nave)— Hon.  Thomas  Eeale  (1662  and  1684), 
and  Col.  Thomas  Ballard  (1670),  Members  of  the  Council 
and   Vestrymen. 

Pew  No.  2— Colonial  Church  Wardens  of  the  Parish 
(1674-176S). 

Pew  No.  3— Capt.  Thos.  Thorp  (1693),  Thomas  Pettus 
(1698),  Vestrymen. 

Pew  No.  4— Hon.  Edward  Earradall,  Kt.  (1735),  Vestry- 
man ;   Attorney   (ieneral,   1737-1743. 

Pew  No.  5 — Wm.  Ilansfurd  (1704),  Henry  Gary  (1721), 
Vestrymen. 

Pew  x\o.  6 — Michael  Archer  (1721)  and  James  Archer, 
Vestrymen. 

I'ew  No.  7 — James  Bray,  Vestryman  (1674),  and  member 
of  Council  (1670),  David  Bray  (1684),  Thomas  Bray  and 
David  Bray,  Jr. 

Pew  No.  8 — James  Whaley  (1701),  Thomas  Whaley 
( 1769),   Vestrymen. 

I'ew  No.  9 — William  Parks,  Vestryman  and  Editor  of 
Fu-st  Virginia  Gazette    (1736). 

I'ev/  No.  10 — William  Robertson,  Clerk  of  the  Council, 
(1705).  Vestryman  prior  to  1768;  Thomas  Everard,  Vestry- 
man,  1769. 

Pew  No.  11 — Samuel  Timson,  William  Timson,  Sr.,  Ves- 
trymen  (1702),  William  Timson,  Jr. 

'Pew  No.  12 — John  Prentis,  Vestryman  (1769)  ;  William 
Prentis.   Vestryman  :   Joseph   I'rentis,   M.   H.   B.,   1775. 

Pew  No.  13 — Capt.  Hugh  Xorvell  (1694),  George  Norvell 
and  William  Norvell,  Vestrymen  and  M.  H.  B.    (1775). 

Pew  No.  14 — Hon.  Thomas  Ludwell,  M.  H.  B.,  Vestry- 
man, 1685. 

Pew  No.  15 — Gideon  Macon,  M.  H.  B.,  1696;  Vestryman, 
1678. 

Pew  No.  16 — Hon.  Edmund  Jenings,  M.  H.  B.,  Secretary 
of   State.   Vestryman,   1694. 

Pew  No.  17 — I'hilip  Ludwell,  M.  H.  B.,  Auditor  General 
(Vestryman  1684),  1688, 


—  G6  — 

Pew  No.  18 — Benjamin  Waller,  M.  H.  B.  (Vestryman), 
1744,  Judge  of  Court  of  Admiralty,   1744. 

Pew  No.  11)  (Nave) — Memory  of  the  Vestry  of  1*574-1683, 
who  erected   the  first  brick  church  upon  this  foundation. 

Pew  No.  20 — Memory  of  the  Vestry  of  1710-1715,  who 
erected  the  present  church  building,  the  Cooperating  Com- 
mittee of  the  House  of  Burgesses  and  the  Contractor,  James 
Morris. 

Pew  No.  21 — Lewis  Burwell,  Nathaniel  Burwell  and 
Armistead   Burwell    (Vestrymen). 

Pew  No.  22  (Nave) — Attorneys  General  of  Virginia,  1697 
to   1776. 

Pew  No.  23  (Nave) — John  Custis,  Member  of  Council, 
Surveyor-General,  Vestryman  (1721),  Daniel  Parke  Custis, 
Mrs.    Martha   Custis. 

I'ew  No.  24  (Nave) — Edmund  Randolph,  Delegate  to  Con- 
gress, 1779-82;  Governor  of  Virginia,  1786-8;  Delegate  Con- 
stitutional Convention,  1787  ;  Attorney  General,  1789-94  ; 
Secretary   State,   1794-5. 

Pew  No.  25    (Nave) — Chief  Justice  John  Marshall. 

Pew  No.  26  (Nave) — Sir  John  Randolph,  Speaker  H.  B., 
1736  ;   Vestryman,  1729. 

Pew  No.  27  (Nave) — James  Monroe,  President  United 
States. 

Pew  No.  28  (Nave) — John  Tyler,  1837,  President  United 
States. 

Pew  No.  29  (Transept) — George  Washington,  President 
United  States,  Signer  of  Declaration  of  Independence. 

Pew  No.  30   (Transept) — Patrick  Henry,  M.   H.  B. 

Pew  No.  31  (Transept) — Peyton  Randolph,  Vestryman, 
1747;  Attorney  General,  1747-66;  Speaker  H.  B.,  1766- 
1775  ;  President  First  Continental  Congress,  1774,  and  Del- 
egate to  Congress,   1775. 

Pew  No.  32  (Transept) — George  Mason,  drafted  Virginia 
Bill  of  Rights  ahd  Constitution,  1776. 

Pew  No.  33   (Transept) — Richard  Bland. 

Pew  No.  34  (Transept) — Archibald  Cary  and  Dabney 
Carr. 

I'ew  No.  35  (Transept) — Robert  Carter  Nicholas,  Vestry- 
man, and  Paul  Carrington. 

I'ew  No.  36  (Transept) — Edmund  Pendleton,  M.  II.  B., 
member  Continental  Congress,  author  resolutions  submitted 
Virginia  delegates  asking  for  Declaration  of  Independence. 

Pew  No.  37  (Transept)- — Memorial  to  the  Speakers  of  the 
House  of   Burgesses,   1700  to   1775. 

Pew  No.  38  (Transept) — Dudley  Digges  and  Andrew 
Lewis. 

I'ew  No.  39  (Transept) — Thomas  Jefferson,  President 
United  States,  Signer  of  Declaration  of  Independence. 

Pew  No.  40  (Transept) — William  Cabell  and  Joseph  Ca- 
bell. 

Pew  No.  41  (Transept) — George  Wythe,  Vestryman  and 
Signer   of  Declaration   of    Independence. 

Pew  No.  42  (Transept) — Memorial  to  the  Colonial  (Gov- 
ernors and  Members  of  the  Council,  1698  to   1775. 

I'ew  No.  43  (Transept) — Thomas  Nelson,  Secretary  of 
State  and  Signer  of  Declaration  of  Independence. 


—  67  — 

Pew  No.  44  (Choir) — Rev.  Commissarj'  Tames  Blair,  D.  D., 
l<i5H-174;!:  Rector,  171(»-1T48:  Dr.  Arcliiljald  Rlair  ;  .lohn 
I'.lair.  Auditor  (leneral  (1),  KiS'.MTTl:  Vestryman,  1744; 
John    Blair,    .Judge    Tniled    States    Supreme    <'ourt    (2). 

Pew  No.  4.J  (Transept)- — Carter  Braxton  and  Benjamin 
Harrison,    Signers   of   Declaration   of    Independence. 

Pew  No.  46  (Choir)  —  Presidents  of  the  College  of  Wil- 
liam and  Mary,  l(i!):!  to  lSr)4. 

Pew  No.  47  (Transept) — Richard  Henry  Lee  and  Francis 
Lightfoot  Lee,   Signers  of  Declaration  of  Independence. 

l*ew  No.  49  (Choir) — Surveyors  General  who  occupied 
this  pew,   1692  to  1728. 

I'ew  No.  50  (Choir)— Col.  John  I'age,  Esq.,  1627-1691-2; 
Vestryman,   1674. 

The  restoration  of  Old  Bruton  is  largely  due  to  the 
indefatigable  efforts  of  Dr.  Goodwin,  the  present  rec- 
tor, and  his  faithful  corps  of  assistants,  w^ho  have 
interested  patriotic  Americans  from  all  parts  of  the 
United  States  in  this  noble  work,  which  has  prac- 
tically been  completed.  A  fireproof  vault  and  steel 
safe  have  been  provided  for  the  preservation  of  the 
Communion    Services   and    Vestry    Eecords. 

The  old  gallery  where  the  students  from  the  Col- 
lege were  locked  in  has  been  retained,  and  upon  the 
hacked  railing  can  still  be  deciphered  the  names  of 
Patrick  Henry  and  other  notable  men,  who,  as  boys, 
amused  themselves  during  service  by  carving  their 
names  upon  this  railing  with  their  jack-knives.  The 
high  backed  pews,  the  Colonial  Governor's  and  Sur- 
veyor General 's  pews,  as  well  as  those  of  the  House 
of  Burgesses,  have  been  replaced  together  with  the 
ancient    old    pupil   and   its   sounding   board. 

As  the  rector  has  beautifully  written:  '^Old 
Bruton  Church  has  well  withstood  the  devastating 
touch  of  time.  The  storms  of  many  winters  have 
gone  over  it,  the  fierce  battles  of  two  great  wars  have 
raged  near  it,  and  in  it  have  lain  the  sick  and 
wounded  of  two  armies,  and  yet  it  stands  today,  just 
as  it  stood  well  nigh  two  hundred  years  ago," 


—  68  — 

"The   tramp   of   many  a   busy   foot 
Which   sought   thy  aisles  is   oer, 

And  many  a  weary  heart  around 
Is  still'd  forever  more." 

The  Bruton  Cliurchyard. — "The  ivy  clings  to  the 
mouldering  wall  and  with  each  gust  the  dead  leaves 
fall." 

As  stated,  the  brick  wall  around  the  graveyard  was 
built  in  1754.  Among  the  honeysuckle  and  magnolias, 
sleep  many  a  forjotten  hero,  and  the  descendants  of 
many  a   noted   personage. 

Near  the  north  door  of  the  church  are  buried  the 
Curtis  children,  George  Washington's  step-children. 
Here  are  the  tombs  of  Eichard  Kempe,  Secretary  of 
the  Colony  and  member  of  the  Council  at  Jamestown 
in  1G42;  also  officiating  Governor  during  Berkeley's 
absence.  It  was  he  who  ordered  "that  the  eighteenth 
day  of  A]u-il  be  yearly  celebrated  by  thanksgivings 
for  our  deliverance  from  the  hands  of  the  Savages," 
the  first  Thanksgiving  Day  in  the  Colony. 

A  queer  epitaph  is  that  upon  the  tombstone  of  Eev. 

Sei'vant  Jones: 

"Like  the  lost  of  imperfect  humanity,  he  was 
not  exempt  from  some  of  its  frailties,  hut  a  kinder 
soul  seldom  existed.  He  possessed  in  his  nature  a 
Hank  of  IJenevolence,  which  secretly  dispensed  its 
varied  blessings   to   the   needy." 

"Time   was  when  his  cheek   with   life's  crimson   was   flushed, 
When   cheerful  his  voice   was,  health  sat  on  his  brow  ; 

That   ciieek   is  now   palsied,   that  voice  is   now   hushed, 
He  sleeps  with   the  dust  of  his  first  partner   now." 

PTe  it  was  who  said  the  following  grace  at  a  dinner 

given   by   one   of   his   parishioners: 

"Good   Lord   of   love   look   down   from   above, 
And  bless  the  owl   who  ate  this   fowl 
And  left  these  bones  for  Scervant  .Tones." 

He  was  a  man  of  quaint  ways  and  strange  speech. 
He  composed  a  touching  tribute  to  his  first  wife,  and 
ordered  it  engraved  upon  a  tombstone.     It  is  said  that 


—  GU  — 

he    brought    the    stone    to    Williamsburg   upon    the    top 
of    the    eoaeh    iu    which    he    returned    from    his    bridal 
trip   with   his  second   wife. 
The   epitaph  reads: 

"If  woman  ever  yet  did  well, 
If  woman  ever  did  excell, 
If  woman  husband   ere  adored, 
If  woman  ever  loved    the    Lord. 

If  ever  faith  and  hope  and  love 
In    human   flesh   did    live   and   move. 
If  all   the  graces   ere  did  meet 
In  hei,   in   her   they   were  complete. 

My  Ann,  my  all,   my  angel   wife. 
.  My  dearest  one,   my  love,   my   life, 
I   cannot   sish   or  say   farewell. 
But  where  thou  dwellest  I  will  dwell." 

Williain  and  Mary  College. — Situated  at  the  ex- 
treme end  of  Duke  of  Gloucester  Street,  nearly  a  mile 
opposite  from  site  of  the  House  of  Burgesses.  The 
College  was  founded  iu  1693  through  the  efforts  of  its 
first  President,  Eev.  James  Blair,  D.D.,  who  was  also 
rector  of  the  Jamestown  Church  ana  later  of  Old 
Bruton.  His  tomb  can  still  be  seen  at  Jamestown, 
separated  from  that   of  his  wife  by  a  large  sycamore. 

The  college  designed  by  the  famous  architect,  Sir 
Christopher  Wren,  also  designer  of  St.  Paul 's  Cathe- 
dral, London,  was  named  in  honor  of  the  reigning 
sovereigns  and  with  the  exception  of  King's  College 
(Columbia),  is  the  only  one  in  the  United  States  that 
can  boast  of  a  royal  charter.  It  is  far  from  being 
a  handsome  structure  and  Jefferson  called  it  '  *  a  rude, 
misshapen  pile."  The  college  colors  are  orange  and 
white,  in  honor  of  the  House  of  Orange.  The  orig- 
inal endowment  was  1,98.5  pounds,  14  shillings 
and  10  pence  and  a  penny  per  pound  on  all  tobacco 
exported  from  Virginia.  A  queer  condition  of  the 
charter  reads  that  the  authorities  pay  to  '^us  and  to 


—  70  — 

our  successors,  two  copies  of  Latin  verse  yearly  on  the 
fifth  day  of  November,  at  the  House  of  the  Governor 
or   Lieutenant-Governor   for  the  time   being. ' ' 

For  four  years  following  the  removal  of  the  Capital 
from  Jamestown,  the  House  of  Burgesses  met  here. 
George  Washington  is  numbered  among  the  chancel- 
lors, also  President  Tyler,  likewise  a  student.  Other 
notable  students  were  Thomas  Jefferson,  James  Mon- 
roe, Edmund  and  Peyton  Eandolph,  Gen.  Winfield 
Scott  and  many  others.  The  building  was  used  as  a 
hospital  during  two  wars  and  was  burned  in  1705, 
1859  and  again  in  1863,  but  re-erected  on  the  same 
walls. 

The  first  Greek  letter  society  in  the  United  States 
was  established  here  in  1776.  The  literary  and  art 
treasures  in  the  custody  of  the  college  are  of  in- 
estimable value,  many  of  them  being  gifts  from 
Colonial  Governors  and  Presidents  of  the  United 
States.  Under  the  Chapel  are  buried  Lord  Botetourt, 
Governor  from  1768-1770,  Sir  John  Eandolph,  John 
and  Peyton  Eandolph   and   other  notables. 

Brafferton. — The  first  permanent  Indian  school  in 
the  United  States,  established  from  funds  derived 
from  the  estate  of  Hon.  Eobert  Boyle  in  1691,  was 
built  in  1723.  It  stands  across  from  the  President's 
house,  to  the  left  of  the  main  building,  and  is  now 
used  for   dormitories. 

President's  House. — Opposite  Brafferton.  Built  in 
1732  and  accidentally  burned  by  the  French,  who 
were  on  their  way  to  Yorktown.  It  was  rebuilt  at 
the  expense  of  Louis  XVL  Prior  to  the  siege  of 
Yorktown,  Cornwallis  used  it  for  his  headquarters. 

Statue  Lord  Botetourt. — Before  the  College  Building 
on  the  campus,  stands  a  monument  to  th6  best  loved 


—  71  — 

of  all  the  Colonial  Governors,  ''The  Right  Honorable 
Xorborne  Berkele}^  Baron  de  Botetourt. ' '  It  was 
erected  by  the  House  of  Burgesses  in  1774.  It  was 
removed  from  its  old  location  in  the  portico  of  the 
College  in  1797. 

The  inscription  on  the  right  side  of  the  monument 
reads  as  follows: 

''Deeply  impressed  with  the  warmest  sense  of  grati- 
tude for  his  Excellency's,  the  Eight  Honorable  Lord 
Botetourt 's  prudent  and  wise  administration,  and  that 
the  remembrance  of  those  many  public  and  social  vir- 
tues, which  so  eminently  adorned  his  illustrious  char- 
acter might  be  transmitted  to  posterity,  the  General 
Assembly  of  Virignia  on  the  XX  day  of  July,  Ann. 
Dom  MDCCLXX],  resolved  with  one  united  voice  to 
erect  this  statue  to  his  Lordship 's  memory.  Let  wis- 
dom and  justice  preside  in  any  country,  the  people 
must  and  will  be  happy."  On  the  opposite  side,  the 
inscription  reads: 

"America,  behold  your  friend,  who,  leaving  his 
native  country,  declined  those  additional  honors,  which 
were  there  in  store  for  him,  that  he  might  heal  your 
w^ounds  and  restore  tranquility  and  happiness  to  this 
extensive  continent.  With  what  zeal  and  anxiety  he 
pursued  these  glorious  objects,  Virginia  thus  bears  her 
grateful   testimony. ' ' 

House  of  Burgesses  Site. — Directly  opposite  Wil- 
liam and  Mary  College,  at  the  extreme  end  of  Duke 
of  Gloucester  Street,  stood  the  stately  House  of  Bur- 
gesses, the  Capitol  of  the  Old  Dominion, 

Nothing  but  the  foundation  walls  remain  to  indi- 
cate the  spot  hallowed  by  so  many  historical  as- 
sociations, except  a  stone  monument  erected  May  26, 
1904,  by  the  Association  for  the  Preservation  of  Vir- 


—  12  — 

ginia  Antiquities,  in  memory  of  the  members  of  the 
House  of  Burgesses.  It  was  built  in  1705,  at  the 
expense  of  Queen  Anne,  but  was  burned  in  1746  and 
again  in  1832.  The  original  speaker's  chair  and  the 
stove  used  here  are  to  be  seen  in  the  State  Capitol 
at  Eichmond. 

It  was  here  that  Washington  appeared  to  deliver 
his  historic  message  from  St.  Pierre  to  the  House  of 
Burgesses,  prior  to  the  French  and  Indian  War.  It 
was  here  that  the  Committee  of  Correspondence  was 
born  under  the  guardianship  of  Dabney  Carr.  Here 
the  Committee  of  Safety  was  organized  and  here  was 
passed  the  celebrated  Virginia  Bill  of  Rights,  which 
more  than  any  other  action  of  the  Colonists  led  di- 
rectly to  the  Declaration  of  Independence. 

On  arrival  of  the  odious  Stamp  Act,  the  House  was 
in  session.  One  of  the  Burgesses,  a  young  lawyer, 
who  as  yet  was  noted  only  for  his  eloquence,  offered 
the  first  opposition  to  the  Act  in  the  Colonies,  but 
when  that  speech  was  finished,  the  iiame  of  Patrick 
Henry  electrified  the  Colonies,  from  Massachusetts  to 
Virginia,  with  startling  fear  aud  doubt.  For  the  first 
time  in  the  history  of  the  new  world,  the  King  was 
publicly  arraigned. 

The  King,  said  Patrick  Henry,  in  assenting  to  the 
taxing  of  the  colonies,  had  acted  the  part  of  a 
tyrant.  Alluding  to  the  fate  of  other  tyrants,  amid 
the  breathless  suspense  of  his  auditors,  he  continued: 
* '  Caesar  had  his  Brutus,  Charles  I  his  Cromwell,  and 
George   III " 

A  cry  interrupted  the  speaker  and  broke  the 
nervous  strain  of  the  House.  ''Treason!"  The  word 
echoed  through  the  room,  with  the  suddenness  of  a 
thunderbolt,    and    then    after   a    significant   pause,   the 


—  73  — 

white  drawn,  tense  face  of  the  young  orator  stood 
out  like  a  silhouette  in  the  dimly  lighted  chamber,  and 
with  uplifted  arm,  he  leaned  forward  and  defiantly 
cried:  '^And  George  III  may  profit  by  their  example. 
If  this  be  treason,  make  the  most  of  it!" 

In  1780  the  Capital  was  removed  from  Williams- 
burg to  Richmond,  and  in  1832  fire  again  destroyed 
this  historic  old  pile  which  witnessed  so  many  thrill- 
ing scenes  in  the  early  history  of  the  nation.     What 


SITE   UF   THE    HULSE   UK   T,LKGESSES. 
could  be  more  fitting  than  the  restoration  of  this  first 
Capitol  of  the  infant  Republic  as  a  permanent  museum 
museum   for   Colonial   relics. 

The  Palace  Green  and  Governor's  Palace. — Between 
Bruton  Church  and  the  old  Court  House,  is  a  long 
strip  of  lawn  known  as  the  Palace  Green.  Originally, 
each  side  of  the  Green  consisted  of  a  walk  leading  to 


—  74  — 

the  Palace,  shaded  by  beautiful  lindens  brought  from 
Scotland.  The  grounds,  including  the  Green,  consisted 
of  three  hundred  and  seventy  acres. 

The  Palace  itself  was  situated  at  the  end  of  the 
Green.  Fifteen  thousand  dollars  was  appropriated  by 
the  Assembly  for  its  erection.  It  is  described  by  an 
early  writer  as  '^a  magnificent  structure,  finished  and 
beautified  with  gates,  fine  gardens,  offices,  walks,  a 
fine  canal,  orchards,  etc. 

A  peculiar  feature  of  Colonial  life  were  the 
"offices."  In  those  days  business  men  had  separate 
buildings  erected,  generally  at  the  side  of  their  resi- 
dences, which  were  used  exclusively  for  office  pur- 
poses. A  number  of  these  queer  buildings  are  still 
standing   in   Williamsburg. 

Lord  Dunmore  was  the  last  Colonial  Governor  to 
occupy  the  Palace,  and  eight  years  after,  following 
the  siege  of  Yorktown,  it  was  accidentally  burned 
by  some  of  the  French  troops.  Nothing  now  remains 
of  it,  but  the  site. 

Dunmore 's  Cave. — From  the  Palace  cellars,  an 
underground  passage  connected  with  a  cave,  now 
marked  by  an  enclosed  mound  of  earth  about  500  feet 
back  of  the  Palace  Green.  It  is  said  that  the  Gov- 
ernor, who  was  in  much  disrepute  among  the  Col- 
onists, prepared  it  as  a  means  of  escape  from  their 
possible  wrath. 

The  Powder  Horn. — In  the  order  of  historical  im- 
portance, perhaps  the  next  Colonial  landmark  to  be 
considered  is  the  antique  Powder  Horn,  an  octagonal- 
shaped  building,  across  from  the  Court  House.  In 
1714,  by  special  act  of  the  House-  of  Burgesses,  Gov- 
ernor Spotswood  drew  the  plans  for  a  powder  maga- 
izne,   its   walls   to   be   22   inches   thick   and   the    entire 


—  75  — 

building    to    be   surrounded    by   brick   walls    10    to    12 
feet   high,   parallel  with  its  .sides,   distant  21  feet. 

Shortly  before  the  Eevolutiouary  War,  Governor 
Dunmore  made  himself  very  obnoxious  to  the  Col- 
onists, the  crowning  feature  of  his  perfidy  being  the 
midnight  theft  of  some  twenty  barrels  of  powder  from 
this  magazine.  This  ammunition  he  conveyed  to  his 
Bhip,  the  ''Magdalen,"  in  the  James  Eiver,  four 
miles  distant.  Confronted  by  a  demand  for  an  ex- 
planation, presented  by  order  of  the  Council,  Alder- 
men and  Mayor,  he  replied,  that  "Hearing  of  an  in- 
surrection in  a  neighboring  county,  I  have  removed 
the    powder   from    the    magazine. ' ' 

This  action  of  the  Governor  almost  precipitated 
hostilities,  and  only  through  Washington  's  and  Pendle- 
ton 's  influence  were  a  company  of  minutemen  pre- 
vented from  marching  from  Fredericksburg  to  Wil- 
liamsburg. Dunmore  finally  paid  the  Colony  three 
hundred  and  thirty  pounds  sterling  for  the  powder, 
but  when  the  citizens  came  to  examine  the  magazine, 
several  barrels  of  powder  were  found  hidden  under 
the  floor,  together  with  a  spring  gun,  which  injured 
one  of  the  investigators.  This  last  act  aroused  such 
a  storm  that  he  fled  to  his  man-of-war,  ''Fowey, " 
anchored  at  Yorktown. 

For  several  years  the  Powder  Horn  was  used  as  a 
Baptist  Church,  with  Eev.  Servant  Jones  in  charge. 
Later  it  was  converted  into  a  dancing  school.  During 
the  Civil  War,  the  Confederates  used  it  as  an  arsenal, 
after  which  the  town  sold  it  and  it  became  a  com- 
mon stable,  but  was  eventually  purchased  by  the  As- 
sociation for  the  Preservation  of  Virginia  Antiquities, 
who  have  fitted  it  up  for  a  museum.  The  wall  around 
the    Magazine    was    torn    down    and    the    bricks    used. 


76 


in    1856,    for    the    fonnclation    of    the    Baptist    Church. 

Court  House  (Duke  of  Gloucester  Street).— Built 
1769.  Its  colnmnless  porch  and  high  belfry  are  espe- 
cially noticeable  features.  This  old  building  was  the 
scene  of  many  an  important  prerevolutionary  debate. 
Its  interior  remains  practically  unchanged. 

The  center  room  is  for  the  Court  and  in  the  rear  of 
it  is  a  raised  platform  for  the  judge.  Immediately 
in  front  sat  the  jury  in  a  semi-circle  with  their  backs 


COURT    HOUSE,    WILLIAMSBURG. 


to  the  judge,  so  that  neither  judge  nor  jury  could 
be  influenced  b}^  each  other 's  changing  expressions. 
In  an  opposite  semi-circle,  facing  the  judge  and  jury, 
sat  the  lawyers,  thus  completing  the  circle.  Behind 
the  lawyers  are  three  pew-like  seats,  one  for  the 
prisoner  in  the  center,  one  for  the  sheriff  on  one  side, 
and   one   for   the   witnesses   on   the  other  side. 

Wythe  House. — In  the  rear  of  Bruton  Church,  on 
Palace  Street,  facing  the  Green,  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting   Colonial   houses  in   the   village.      This   was 


—  77  — 

the  homo  of  the  man  who  devised  the  seal  of  Vir- 
oiiiin — a  member  of  the  Virginia  Convention  for  the 
ratification  of  tlie  Constitution  and  a  student  and 
elianoellor  of  William  and  Mary  College — George 
Wvthe,  tlie  patriot. 

The  house  was  used  by  Washington  as  head- 
quarters ])rior  to  the  siege  of  Yorktown,  and  it  is 
said    that    on     moonlight     nights     the     ghost     of     the 


WYTHE    HOUSE,   WASIIINGTONS  HEADQUARTERS. 

"Father  of  his  Country"  appears  in  the  hall  with 
clanking  sword  at  his  side.  The  bedroom  of  Judge 
Wythe  is  also  said  to  be  haunted,  a  cold  white  hand 
appearing  and  pressing  the  brow  of  anyone  who  occu- 
pies it.  The  ghost  of  Lady  Skipwith,  daughter  of 
the  master  of  Westover,  is  said  to  be  seen,  slowly 
descending  the  Colonial  stairway,  with  slow  and  dig- 
nified  step. 


The  flooring  in  this  ol(i  house  consists  of  boards 
that  run  the  full  length  oj:  the  rooms  without  piece 
or  patch,  and  "the  v'eep  waiio  and  window  recesses 
show  how  well  our  forefathers  built — better,  perhaps, 
than  they  knew. 

In  the  ' '  Voice  of  the  People, ' '  Ellen  Glasgow  has 
made  it  the  home  of  one  of  her  principal  characters, 
''Judge  Bassett. "  It  is  now  occupied  by  a  sweet- 
faced,  grey-haired  maiden  lady,  who  tinds  her  chief 
delight  in  showing  the  old  mansion  to  the  many 
patriotic  pilgrims,  who  clamor  for  a  glimpse  of  this 
famous   haunted   house. 

Audrey's  House. — Diagonally"  opposite  from  the 
Wythe  House,  on  Dunmore  Street,  stands  a  modest 
little  residence,  called  the  ''Audrey  House,"  said  to 
have  been  the  home  of  Miss  Mary  Johnston's 
"Audrey,"  described  in  her  novel  of  that  name.  The 
real  romance  connected  with  the  house  is  the  inscrip- 
tion, evidently  scratched  with  a  diamond  ring,  on  one 
of  the  tiny  window  panes. 

What  a  volume  of  romance  lies  hidden  in  that  "  O, 
fatal  day. ' '  The  house  is  now  occupied  by  Miss 
Estelle  Smith,  who  has  made  a  study  of  the  historic 
associations  which  cluster  around  Williamsburg  and 
Jamestown.  She  has  carefully  searched  all  records 
for  any  important  happening  on  Nov.  2.3,  1796,  but 
without  avail,  so  it  is  reasonable  to  presume  that  the 


—  79  — 

tragedy  must  have  been  oue  of  the  heart — a  personam 
incident   and   not    one    of    public    significance. 

Debtor's  Prison. — One  of  the  dark  spots  on  the  images 
of  our  C'oh)nial  history  is  the  sad  record  t)f  imprison- 
ment for  debt,  and  here  in  Williamsburg  is  a  build- 
ing said  to  have  been  used  for  the  detention  of 
debtors.  It  is  situated  near  the  new  bank  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  street.  Miss 
Mary  L.  Foster,  in  her  *' Colonial  Capitols,"  dis- 
credits its  prison  associations,  as  she  v>'rites:  ''In  a 
description  of  Williamsburg  during  Spotswood  's  time 
(1710-23),  it  was  said  that  near  the  Capitol  is  a 
strong,  sweet  prison  for  criminals  and  on  the  other 
side  of  an  open  court  another  for  debtors."  This, 
she  continues,  ''would  place  the  debtor's  prison  at 
the  other  end  of  town." 

Bassett  Hall. — Formerly  the  home  of  Judge  Bassett. 
George  Washington  was  a  frequent  and  welcome  visit- 
or here  and  the  Judge  was  famous  throughout  the 
Old  Dominion  for  his  hospitality.  It  was  also  the 
home  of  President  John  Tyler,  in  1841.  Thomas 
Moore,  the  poet,  is  said  to  have  composed  his  poem, 
"To  the  Firefly,"  while  sitting  on  the  porch  at  twi- 
light. 

TO  THE   FIREFLY. 

At  morning,   when   the   earth  and  sky 
Are  glowing  with  the  light  of  spring, 

We   see   thee   not,    thou   humble   fly  ! 
Nor   think  upon   thy  gleaming   wing. 

But   when    the   skies   have   lost   their   hue, 

And    sunny    lights   no   longer  play, 
Oh,  then  we  see  and  bless   thee,  too. 

For  sparkling  o'er  the  dreary  way. 

Thus  let   me   hope,  when   lost  to   me 
The   lights   that   now    my   life  illume. 

Some   milder  joys   may   come,    like   thee, 
To   cheer,   if  not  to   warm,  the  gloom. 


—  80  — 

The  Blair  House  (South  Side  of  Duke  of  Gloucester 
Street). — This  was  tlic  home  of  Hon.  John  Blair,  Judge 
of  the  United  States  Suprejue  Court.  Judge  Blair  was 
appointed  to  this  office  by  George  Washington.  He 
was  Auditor  Genei*al  of  Virginia  from  1732  to  1771 
and  vestryman  of  Bruton  Churrh  1744. 

Peyton    Eandolph    House     (Francis     Street). — This 

house,  built  in  1775,  still  stands  intact.     A  tablet  has 

been  placed   upon  it  which  reads: 

"Home  of  Peyton  Randolph,  Attorney  General  of 
Virginia,  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Burgesses,  First 
President  of  the  Continental  Congress,  P>orn  1722, 
Died  1775." 

He  was  Speaker  of  the  House  when  Patrick  Henry 

made   his   celebrated   speech,   ' '  If   this   be   treason  ' ' — 

This  patriot   lies  buried  und(>r   the   Chapel   of   William 

and   Mary   College. 

Tazewell  Hall  (England  Street). — The  home  of  Sir 
John  Randolpli  and  Edmund,  his  nephew.  Sir  John 
was  Speaker  of  the  House  in  173(5  and  Vestryman  of 
Bruton  Church,  1729. 

Edmund  Randolph  was  Attorney  General  1789-94, 
Governor  of  Virginia,  1786-8;  Secretary  of  State, 
1794-5.  Also  Delegate  to  Congress  1779-82  and  Dele- 
gate to  tlie  Constitutional  Convention  in  1787. 

The  First  Theater  in  the  United  States. — The  site 
of  this  playhouse  is  on  the  southeast  corner  of  Blair 
Avenue,  near  the  Capitol  monument.  It  was  built  in 
1716,  and  Miss  Johnson  describes  some  of  the  dramatic 
scenes  enacted  in  this  quaint  little  theater  in  her 
story  of  "Audrey." 

The  first  company  that  played  in  America  first  ap- 
peared here  in  1752,  under  the  management  of  Lewis 
Hallam,  Sr.  The  orchestra  was  under  the  leadership 
of    Mr.    Peter   Pelham,     organist     at     Bruton     Church. 


—  81  — 

Washington  was  a  frequent  attendant  at  this  play- 
house. 

Masonic  Temple  (Francis  Street). — The  first  grand 
lodge  of  Virginia  was  organized  in  this  house,  now 
dilapidated  and  in  ruins.  The  present  Masonic  Lodge 
has  in  its  possession  a  carved  mahogany  chair  pre- 
sented to  the  lodge  by  Lord  Botetourt,  the  Colonial 
Governor.  It  was  used  by  Washington  at  his  inaugura- 
tion. 

Six  Chimney  Lot. — On  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
Hospital  Park  formerly  stood  a  mansion  occupied  by 
Washington  and  his  wife  during  their  early  married 
life.  There  is  still  standing  here  a  brick  building 
said  to  have  been  Martha  Washington's  kitchen,  and 
an    elm   tree   planted  by  her   own   hands. 

Site  of  Raleigh  Tavern. — This  famous  inn  stood  on 
the  site  now  occupied  by  Lane's  Store.  On  a  portico 
over  the  door  stood  a  metal  bust  of  Sir  Walter 
Ealeigh,  which  is  now  preserved,  with  other  relies,  in 
the  Powder  Horn. 

Here  many  a  social  banquet  was  held,  and  here 
Thomas  Jefferson  was  rejected  by  Rebecca  Burwell. 
Here  in  1769,  in  the  famous  Apollo  Room,  George 
Washington  presented  the  Burgesses  with  the  '  *  Non- 
Importation  Agreement,"  drawn  up  by  George 
Mason.  After  the  House  was  dissolved  by  Dunmore 
in  1774,  the  Burgesses  met  here  and  prepared  the  way 
for  a  general  Congress,  The  building  was  destroj^ed 
by  fire   in   18-59. 

Fort  Magruder. — About  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the 
town,  on  the  road  to  Yorktown,  can  be  seen  the  Con- 
federate entrenchments  where  the  famous  battle  of 
Williamsburg  was   fought,   May   5,    1862. 

Confederates  under  Longstreet  awaited  the  Federals 


—  82  — 

at  Port  Magruder,  Hooker  being  the  first  to  be  at- 
tacked. Kearny  arrived  just  in  time  to  support 
Hooker.  Hancock  succeeded  in  capturing  some 
redoubts,  but  no  one  seemed  in  supreme  command  of 
the  Federal  forces  and  at  night  the  Confederates  re- 
tired with  a  loss  of  about  1,560,  Federal  loss  2,200. 
A  tablet  in  the  Bruton  Church  reads: 

"In  memory  of 

the 

Confederate 

Soldiers 

who   fell    in   the 

Battle  of  Williamsburg, 

May   the  Tith,   1862. 

And  of  those  who  died  of 

the   wounds    received 

in  the  same. 
They  died  for  us." 

In  concluding  the  description  of  Williamsburg  it  is 
no  more  than  just  to  mention  the  Colonial  Inn. 
Here,  in  the  spacious  parlor  and  dining  room,  can  be 
seen  the  most  complete  collection  of  antiquities  and 
Colonial  furniture  in  the  state,  and  what  makes  them 
more  valuable  to  their  possessor,  is  the  fact  that  they 
were  in  actual  use  by  his  own  forbears.  The  pro- 
prietor, Mr.  J.  B.  C.  Spencer,  is  the  gentleman  who 
first  conceived  the  idea  of  the  Jamestown  Ter-Cen- 
tennial  and  organized  the  first  committee  in  its  in- 
terests. 

Carter's  Grove. — This  beautiful  Colonial  residence  is 
seven  miles  from  Williamsburg  on  the  James  Kiver. 
The  grove  was  originally  owned  by  Col.  Eobert  Car- 
ter, known  as  Kipg  Carter,  and  the  mansion  was 
erected  by  his  grandson  in  1722,  and  was  the  home 
of  Eebecca  Burwell,  whom  Jefferson  wooed  and  lost. 
During  the  Eevolution,  Tarleton  's  troopers  raided  the 
place  and  their  saber  cuts  can  still  be  seen  on  the 
banisters  of  the  staircase. 


CHAPTEK   X. 

YORKTOWN,    ENGLAND'S     WATERLOO. 

There  have  been  far  greater  battles  fought  than 
those  at  Yorktown,  but  no  other  campaign  on  Ameri- 
can soil  was  fraught  with  so  many  significant  results 
as  was  the  siege  of  Yorktown — results  as  far  reaching 
as  the  events  which  followed  the  Battle  of  Waterloo. 

"Yorke   Tonne"   was    laid    out    in    1619,    but    not 


YORKTOWN,  AS  IT  IS  TODAY. 

legally  established  until  1705.  At  the  opening  of  the 
Revolution,  it  was  quite  an  important  little  town, 
having  an  extensive  sea  trade.  Today  the  inhabitants 
number  less  than   two   hundred. 

Sept,  27,  1781,  the  British  commenced  to  cannonade 

tlie  opposing  forces,  the  American  army  being  a  mile 

'IJstant    and    the    French    a    mile    to    the   left    of    the 

Americans.      The    siege    lasted    until    October    19,    the 

—  83  — 


YORKTOWX    BATTLEFIELD 
MONUMENT 


—  85  — 

firing  commencing  in  earnest  on  tlic  nintli  of  October, 
and  continuing  with  awful  intensity  until  the  six- 
teenth, over  tliree  hundred  pieces  of  artillery  being 
incessantly  engaged.  It  is  said  that  the  carcasses  ot 
six  or  seven  hundred  horses  could  be  seen  floating 
down  the  river  every  day. 

On  the  sixteenth,  the  British  attempted  to  escape 
by  crossing  the  river  at  Gloucester  Point,  but  a  severe 
storm  prevented  all  the  detachments  from  starting 
and  the  attempt  was  abandoned.  The  next  day.  Corn- 
wallis  sent  out  a  flag  of  truce,  which  resulted  in  his 
surrender,    October    19, 

The  Battleground. — The  British  entrenchments  are 
still  very  much  in  evidence,  overgrown  with  broom- 
straw,  the  seed  of  which  was  brought  to  this  country 
by  the  British  soldiers  in  the  hay  for  their  horses.  In 
a  field  near  the  river,  stands  a  beautiful  stone  monu- 
ment bearing  the  following  inscriptions:  On  the 
south  side: 

"At  York,  on  October  19,  1781,  after  a  siege  of  19  days 
by  5, .500  American  and  7.000  French  troops  of  the  line, 
3,500  Virginia  militia,  under  command  of  General  Thomas 
Nelson,  and  36  French  ships  of  war.  Earl  Cornwallis,  com- 
mander of  the  British  forces  at  York  and  Gloucester,  sur- 
rendered his  army,  7,251  officers  and  men.  840  seamen,  244 
cannon  and  24  standards,  to  His  Excellency  George  Wash 
ington,  commander-in-chief  of  the  combined  forces  of  Amer- 
ica and  France  :  to  His  Excellency  the  Comte  de  Rochambeau, 
commanding  the  auxiliary  troops  of  his  most  Chris;tian 
majesty  in  America  :  and  to  His  Excellency  the  Comte  de 
Grasse,"  commanding  in  chief  the  naval  reserves  of  France 
in  Chesapeake.' 

On  the  north  side  of  the  monument: 

"The  provisional  articles  of  peace  concluded  November 
30,  1782,  and  the  definite  treaty  of  Peace  concluded  Sep- 
tember 3,  1783,  between  the  T'nited  States  of  America  and 
George  III,  king  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  declare: 
His  Britannic  Majesty  acknowledges  the  said  Ignited  States, 
viz.,  New  Hampshire."  Massachusetts  Bay,  Rhode  Island  and 
I'rovidence  I'lantations,  Connecticut,  New  York,  New  .Jer- 
sey, Bennsvlvania,  Delaware,  Maryland,  Virginia,  North 
Carolina,  South  Carolina  and  Georgia,  to  be  free  soveieign 
and   independent   states." 


—  86  — 

Place  of  Surrender. — Oct.  19,  1781,  Cornwallis  agreed 
to  sun-ender  and  at  two  o  'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the 
British  army  advanced  to  a  field  adjoining  the  town, 
about  half  a  mile  to  the  east,  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Hampton  road.  Cornwallis,  unable  to  bear  the 
ordeal,  commissioned  Gen.  O'Hara  to  act  as  his  substi- 
tute. With  colors  cased,  and  drums  beating,  the 
British  laid  down  their  arms,  after  a  siege  of  nineteen 
days,  thus  closing  the  long  drawn  out  contest  of  the 
brave  Colonists  for  an  independent  government.  A 
monument  has  been  erected  here  by  Capt.  Shaw,  of 
Yorktowri,  at  his  own  expense. 

House  Where  Articles  of  Capitulation  Were  Signed. 

Nearly  a  mile  from  Yorktown  is  a  quaint  frame  resi- 
dence, known  as  the  ' '  Moore  House, ' '  situated  on 
''Temple  Farm."  In  the  parlor  of  this  house,  the 
terms  of  surrender  of  the  British  army  were  drawn  up 
and  signed. 

The  house  was  built  in  1713  and  is  said  to  have  been 
Gov.  Alexander  Spotswood  's  summer  home.  The  place 
received  its  name  ''Temple  Farm"  because  of  traces 
of  a  round  edifice  surrounded  by  a  wall  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  used  as  a  place  of  worship  and 
burial  ground.  Only  one  legible  stone  remains,  bear- 
ing the   following  inscription: 

"Mayor  William  Gooch, 

Dyed  October  20th,  1655. 

Within    this   tomb   there   doth    interred    lie, 

No   shape,    but   substance,   true   nobility ; 

Itself   though    young   in    years,    but   twenty-nine, 

Yet    graced    with    nature's    Morall    and    divine. 

The  church  from   him  did  good  participate, 

In  counsil  rare,  fit  to  adorn  a  state." 

In*  a  field  near  the  house  is  another  old  graveyard 
and  in  1834  Dr.  W.  Shields,  who  owned  the  farm, 
claimed    to    have    discovered    pieces    of    a    gravestone 


87 


which  bore  the  name  of  Spotswood,  and  many  are  in- 
clined to  believe  that  the  governor  was  buried  here. 

The  Nelson  House. — Built  1740.  A  splendid  ex- 
ample of  a  Colonial  residence  with  spacious  halls  and 
rooms.  The  house  is  surrounded  by  an  old  fashioned 
garden  with  a  boxwood  border.  It  fronts  the  river 
on  the  main  street.  It  was  occupied  by  Gen.  La- 
fayette on  his  visit  to  Yorktown  and  during  the 
siege  by  Cornwallis  as  his  headquarters.  The  gable 
was    struck   by    three    cannon    balls    and    another   was 


NELSON     1IUL'8E,    Y()KKT(^)\VN. 


embedded  in  the  brick  wall,  while  still  another  en- 
tered the  dining  room,  shattering  the  marble  mantel. 
In  this  room  is  a  secret  panel,  connecting  two  secret 
rooms    with    the    garret.      During    the    Civil    war    the 


house  was  occupied  by  the  Confederates  uuder  Gen- 
eral Magruder. 

The  Nelson  house  at  the  edge  of  the  town,  during 
the  Eevolution,  was  occupied  by  British  soldiers.  The 
American  militia  under  General  Nelson  disliked  to 
fire  upon  the  house  of  their  commander,  but  the  gal- 
lant General  at  once  offered  a  reward  of  five  guineas 
to  the  soldier  who  fired  the  first  shot.  It  was  not 
long  before  the  house  was  in  ruins  and  hardly  a  trace 
of  it  now  remains. 

General  Nelson  was  a  member  of  the  House  of 
Burgesses,  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence  and  Governor  of  Virginia.  During  the 
siege  of  Yorktown,  he  fed  his  command  at  his  own 
expense  and  later  gave  his  personal  security  to  be 
added  to  that  of  the  state  when  a  $2,000,000  credit 
was  to  be  raised. 

Cornwallis'  Cave. — About  fifty  yards  from  the  Nel- 
son House,  on  a  hillside,  is  a  cave  excavated  by  order 
of  Lord  Cornwallis.  It  was  used  by  him  as  a  Council 
Chamber  and  probably  for  protection  from  the 
enemy's  shells.  The  cave  on  the  river  bank  is  not  the 
original  Cornwallis  Cave,  although  called  such. 

Swan  Tavern. — Originally  built  in  1722.  Located 
on  Main  Street.  Said  to  be  the  oldest  one  in  the  state. 
It  was  burned  during  the  Civil  War.  The  present 
building  stands  upon  the  original  walls. 

Custom  House. — The  oldest  and  first  Custom  House 
in  the  United  States  is  located  here.     Built  in  1715. 

Werowocomoco. — Near  Yorktown  on  the  north  side 
of  York  Eiver,  was  the  home  of  Powhatan,  where  Capt 
John  Smith  was  brought  after  his  capture  by  that  chief. 
Here  occurred  the  famous  Pocahontas  incident.  Smith 
wrote  that  it  was  ''some  14  myles  from  James 
Towne. ' ' 


CHAPTEK  XI. 

SMITHFIELD,    THE    HOME    OF    THE    PEANUT. 

A  short  distance  up  the  James  Eiver  on  the  left 
bank  is  a  quiet  little  village  called  Smithfield — the 
home  of  the  American  goober  or  peanut,  a  staple  crop 
in  Virginia. 

Here  are  large  factories  and  warehouses  where  the 
peanuts  are  purchased  from  the  farmers,  cleaned, 
sorted,  polished  and  prepared  for  market.  The 
American  consumption  of  peanuts  amounts  to  over 
6,000,000   bushels  and   is   valued   at   over   $14,000,000. 

The  average  yield  is  over  twenty  bushels  per  acre. 
The  seeds  are  planted  8  to  20  inches  apart,  about  two 
bushels  in  the  pod,  being  used  per  acre.  They  are 
harvested  by  plowing,  men  with  pitchforks  following 
the  plow  and  shaking  the  loosened  vines  from  the 
earth  and  piling  them  in  windrows.  After  lying  in 
the  sunshine  they  are  stacked  in  small  shocks  and 
capped  with  hay.  In  two  or  three  weeks  the  peanuts 
are  picked  by  nomadic  gangs  of  negroes. 

The  Virginia  crop  amounts  to  about  4,000,000 
bushels    annually,    estimated    at    $2,226,000    value. 

St.  Luke's  Church. — About  five  miles  from  Smith- 
field  is  the  Old  Brick  Church  built  in  1632,  the  oldest 
building   of   English   construction   in   America. 

The  old  tower  church  at  Jamestown  is  of  later  date 
and  while  Bruton  at  Williamsburg  (1683)  as  an  organ- 
ization is  the  oldest  in  America,  its  present  edifice  is 
antedated  by  St.  Luke's,  near  Smithfield.  This  edifice 
was  built  under  the  supervision  of  Joseph  Bridges, 
—  89  — 


—  90  — 

father  of  Gen.  Jos.  Bridges,  "Councellor  of  State." 
The  church  was  partially  destroyed  by  a  storm  in 
1884,  and  its  restoration  was  undertaken  by  the  Rev. 
David  Barr. 

A  most   beautiful  stained  glass  window  commemor- 


ST.    LUKE'S    CHURCH,    SMITHFIELD 


ates  the  landing  at  Jamestown  and  the  subsequent  de- 
velopment of  the  Old  Dominion.  It  is  divided  into 
twelve  sections  with  windows  in  honor  of  Washing- 
ton, Robert  E.  Lee,  James  Madison,  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh,  John  Smith,  John  Rolfe  and  other  well 
known   Colonists. 


91 


In  1891,  during  excavations  for  tiie  burial  of  Gen. 
Joseph  Bridges,  the  feet  and  legs  of  a  lady  were 
found  in  front  of  the  pulpit.  They  are  believed  to  be 
those  of  Miss  NorsAVorthy,  who  was  buried  in  the 
aisle  in  1666,  over  two  hundred  years   ago. 


INTEKIOK    ST.    LUKES   CHURCH,    SMITEIFIELD 


The  old  pulpit  with  its  sounding  board,  the  old 
peAvs  and  other  features  of  the  early  church,  have 
been  faithfully  copied  and  the  interior  restored  as 
near  like  the  original  as  possible.  A  trip  to  Smith- 
field  and  this  historic  Church  will  well  repay  every 
visitor  to  the  Jamestown  Exposition. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PETERSBURG,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  CRATER. 

This  thriving  little  city  is  in  Dinwiddie  County  on 
the  Appomattox  Eiver,  twenty-three  miles  south  of 
Richmond.  It  is  the  third  city  in  the  state  in  size 
and  importance  and  was  incorporated  in  1748.  Popula- 
tion, 24,000. 


BLANFORD  CHURCH,  PETERSBURG 


During  the  early  settlement  of  Virginia,  God-fear- 
ing pioneers  erected  a  line  of  churches  from  Norfolk 
to  Petersburg,  each  ten  miles  apart.  One  of  the  best 
known   of   those   churches  is  the   one   at   Petersburg. 

Blanford  Church. — Bristol  Parish  was  established  by 
—  92  — 


—  93  — 

act  of  the  House  of  Burgesses  in  1643.  The  first 
parish  church  known  as  the  ''Chapj)le, "  was  located 
near  the  Appomattox  Eiver  in  Prince  George  County, 
about  two  miles  below  Petersburg.  The  present 
church  on  Wells  Hill  was  completed  in  1737.  Its 
original  form  was  a  rectangle,  but  in  1752  it  was 
changed  to  the  form  of  a  T.  Services  were  discon- 
tinued in  1781,  and  for  a  century,  the  ''old  pile"  lay 
crumbling  under   the  devastating  storms   of  time. 

In  1882  the  work  of  restoration  commenced  under 
the  auspices  of  the  various  patriotic  and  memorial 
associations.  During  the  period  (about  1841),  when 
its  walls  were  slowly  crumbling  to  dust,  some  unknown 
])erson,  evidently  under  the  spell  of  its  associations, 
wrote   the   following   poem   upon   its   walls: 

Thoii  art  crumbling  to  the   dust,   old  pile, 

Thou  art   liasteumg  to   thy  fall. 
And    round  thee   in   thy    loneliness 

("lings   the   ivy   to    the   wall. 
The  worshippers  are  scattered  now 

Who   knelt   before    thy   shrine. 
And  silence  reigns  where  anthems   rose, 

In   days   of   '"Auld   Lang    Syne." 

And   sadly   sighs  the   wandering  wind 

Where  oft,  in  years  gone  by. 
Prayers  rose  from  manv  hearts  to   Him 

The  Highest  of  the  High  ; 
The  tramp  of  many  a  busy  foot 

That   sought   thy    aisles   is   o'er. 
And   many   a   weary   heart  around 

Is  still  forever  more. 

How  doth  ambition's  hope  take  wing, 

How   droops  the  spirit  now  I 
We    hear    the    distant    city's    din, 

The  dead  are  mute  below. 
The  sun  th.at  shone  upon  their  paths 

Now   gilds   their   lonely  graves  : 
The  zephyrs   which   onre    fanned   their   brows, 

The  grass  above  them  waves. 

Oh  !   could  we  call   the   many   ]>a(k 

Who've   gathered    here    in"  vain — 
Who've  careless   roved  whore   we   do   now, 

Who'll  never  meet  again  ; 


—  94  — 

How  would  our  weary  souls  be  "stirred, 

To  meet  the  earnest  gaze 
Of  the    lovely   and    the  beautiful, 

The  lights  of  other  days. 

This  poem  has  been  copied,  and  a  tablet  containing 
its  verses  now  hangs  upon  the  wall  of  the  church. 

The  edifice  is  now  used  as  a  Confederate  Memorial 
Chapel.  The  church  is  surrounded  by  an  ancient 
graveyard,  marked  by  an  old  brick  wall,  now  a  part 
of  the  modern  cemetery.  June  the  9th,  Confederate 
Memorial  Day  services  are  held  at  this  chapel,  which 
is  situated  near  the  battlefield  of  the  Crater,  Each 
of  the  thirteen  Confederate  States  is  to  place  a  me- 
morial window  in  this  edifice,  in  memory  of  the 
soldiers  who  fell  on  the  Petersburg  battlefields.  Vir- 
ginia, Missouri  and  Louisiana  have  already  installed 
their  memorial.  The  inscription  on  the  Louisiana  win- 
dow reads: 

"To  the  glorious  memory  of  those  brave  men  of  the 
Washington  Artillery,  of  New  Orleans,  La.,  who  gave  their 
lives  for  the  Confederate   Cause."' 

The   Daughters   of  the   Confederacy   have   erected   a" 

tablet  which  reads  as  follows: 

In   Loving   Memory 
of 
The   Citizen   Soldiers   of  Petersburg,    the 
Gray-Haired   Sires   and   Beardless 
Youths,    who   on 
June    0,    1864, 
Laid  Down   Their  Lives   Near  this  Ven- 
erable  Church    in    Successful    Defense 
of   our   Altars   and    Firesides. 
Another  tablet  is  inscribed: 

"To  the  Glory  of  God  and  in  memory  of  Virginia  Patriots 
and  Heroes  of  the  Confederate  Army.  "Eternal  right, 
though  all  fail,  can  never  be  made  wrong." 

Another  inscription  is: 

"In  memory  of  the  Patriots  who  planned,  upheld  and 
achieved  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America, 
1775-1782." 

The  oldest  date  on  the  tombstones  in  the  adjoining 
cemetery   is    1702,   but    it    seems   to    have    been    a    not 


—  95  — 

uncommon  custom  for  the  Colonists  to  have  their 
dead  disinterred  in  England  and  brought  to  Virginia 
for  burial,  so  that  many  early  dates  are  found  on  Vir- 
ginia gravestones  that  are  not  accurate  indications 
of  the  real  age  of  a  burial  ground. 

During  the  battles  of  Petersburg,  shot  and  shell 
shrieked  through  this  city  of  the  dead,  striking  both 
the  church  and  many  of  the  tombstones.  In  the  more 
modern  part  of  the  graveyard  can  still  be  seen  the 
marks  of  cannon-balls  and  shells.  Many  slabs  were 
splintered  into  a  thousand  fragments,  while  monu- 
ments and  fences  still  bear  the  sacrilegious  imprint 
of  death  dealing  projectiles. 

"The  Crater." — Some  of  the  most  important  mili- 
tary operations  of  the  Civil  War  centered  around 
Petersburg,  for  Petersburg  was  the  key  to  Richmond, 
and  Richmond  was  the  capital  of  the  Confederacy. 
The  Federals  under  Gen.  Grant  commenced  operations 
here  in  1864,  and  after  several  unsuccessful  attempts 
to  seize  the  city,  siege  was  begun  June  19,  1864.  The 
Confederate  position  was  defended  by  Gen.  Mahone. 
Gen.  Lee  had  been  surprised  by  Grant 's  movement 
upon  Petersburg,  and  many  precious  hours  were  lost 
before  he  could  be  convinced  that  the  Federal  troops 
were   concentrating   upon   Petersburg. 

The  Federals  decided  to  mine  the  entrenchments 
and  fortifications  of  the  Confederates,  and  with  this 
end  in  view,  the  most  elaborate  preparations  were 
made.  Not  the  smallest  detail  was  neglected,  and  the 
tunnel  was  completed  several  hundred  feet  before  the 
Confederates  had  their  suspicions  aroused  by  the  con- 
centration of  Federal  troops  at  certain  points  and 
their  withdrawal  from  other  positions.  Even  then 
they  were  led  to  believe   it  could  not  be   possible,  -as 


96 


Grant's  army  was  over  five  liimdred  feet  from  their 
lines  at  the  nearest  point  and  the  longest  mine  ever 
constructed  was  not  much  over  four  hundred  feet  long. 
It  would  not  be  possible,  the  Confederates  argued,  to 
ventilate  a  tunnel  of  500  feet,  but  by  a  simple  system 
of  box  flues  and  a  bonfire  to  create  a  draught,  the 
Federals    easily   overcame    that    difficulty.      Their    sus- 


BATTLEFIEI.D  OF  THE  CRATER,  TETERSBURG. 

pieions  growing,  the  Confederates  commenced  to 
countermine,  but  thrfee  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet 
of  tunnel  were  constructed  and  no  Federal  mines  were 
discovered. 

The  best  modern  machinery  of  warfare  in  possession 
of  the  Union  army  was  concentrated  upon  the  point 
where  the  explosion  was  to  take  place.  Orders  were 
issued  and  every  detail  provided  for,  so  that  the 
troops  would  charge  with  the  greatest  celerity. 


—  97  — 

July  30,  1S64,  the  main  fuse  connected  with  two 
subsidiary  fuses  was  ignited,  Init  after  burning  to  the 
main  fuse,  it  went  out.  Another  attempt  was  made  to 
ignite,  this  time  successfully.  Suddenly,  without 
warning,  a  detachment  of  Confederate  soldiers,  num 
bering  272,  were  precipitated  into  the  air  with  terrific* 
violence,  destroying  a  battery  and  tearing  open  thf 
earth  for  135  feet  long,  90  feet  wide  and  30  feet  deep. 
When  the  smoke  partially  cleared  away,  a  vast  chasm 
yawned  at  the  very  feet  of  the  Confederate  army, 
while  buried  in  the  pit  lay  nearly'  three  hundred  of 
their   comrades. 


PEACE  MONUMENT,   PETERSBURG. 


Like  clock  work  the  Federal  guns  boomed  forth, 
and  shot  and  shell  fell  like  hail,  but  hindered  by  the 
unwieldiness  of  their  brigades,  the  Union  forces  failed 
to  charge  with  the  alacrity  planned  and  with  wonder- 


—  08  — 

ful  bravery  the  Confederates  were  able  to  rally  and 
meet  the  charge  when  it  did  come  with  decisive  suc- 
cess, and  here  in  this  awful  pit  perished  scores  and 
hundreds  of  the  gallant  boys  in  blue. 

At  the  AVestmoreland  Club  in  Richmond  may  be 
seeii  an  oil  painting  of  the  Battle  of  Petersburg,  pur- 
chased by  tlie  JNTorfolk  and  Western  Eailroad  Company 
for  $13,000  and  presented  to  Gen.  Mahone,  the  officer 
in  charge  of  the  Confederate  troops. 

Final  operations  were  commenced  against  Peters- 
burg, March  25,  1865,  and  after  the  battle  of  Five 
Forks,  March  31  and  April  1,  it  was  evacuated  April 
2  and  3  and  surrendered  April  3,  1865,  completing 
one  of  the  bloodiest  and  fiercest  campaigns  of  the 
war. 

Peace  Monument. — On  the  Hare  farm,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Petersburg,  650  of  the  Maine  First  Artil- 
lery fell  in  a  brave  charge  upon  the  Confederate 
ranks,  and  this  monument  has  been  erected  in  memory 
of  both  the  Union  and  Confederate  soldiers  who  fell 
here. 

The  total  loss  in  the  battles  of  Petersburg'  were  as 
follows:  June  15-19,  1864,  11,386;  June  20  to  30,  769; 
July  1  to  31,  1,081;  August  1  to  31,  1,077;  total  14,313. 


CHAPTER  Xin. 

RICHMOND — THE    CITY    OP    CHIVALRY, 

All  the  romance  and  chivalry  of  the  Old  South  cen- 
tered around  Richmond,  the  capital  and  the  key  to  the 
Confederacy,  the  home  of  Robert  E.  Lee  and  of  Jef- 
ferson Davis.  Its  historic  associations  are  still  dear 
to  every  southern  heart. 

The  Peninsula,  the  Wilderness,  Petersburg,  Cold 
Harbor,  Fair  Oahs,  Gains  Mill,  Seven  Pines  and  many 
other  battlefields  were  each  deadly  milestones  on  the 
road  to  Richmond.  ''On!  on!  to  Richmond!"  became 
the  Federal  battle  cry,  and  the  city  soon  became  sur- 
rounded by  walls  of  fire  and  fields  of  carnage — the 
graveyards  of  friends  and  foes,  and  while  death  and 
destruction  reigned  witho.ut,  gaunt  famine  prevailed 
within,  the  city  finally  surrendering  to  Fate,  April  3, 
1865. 

Today,  nearly  half  a  century  since  these  awful 
scenes  were  enacted,  the  bonds  of  brotherhood  and 
peace  have  been  reunited,  but  the  scars  and  marks  of 
conflict  still  remain,  sacred  shrines  for  every  Ameri- 
can, regardless  of  distinction  as  to  ''blue"  or  "gray," 
Federal  or  Confederate. 

St.  John's  Church. — The  most  important  Colonial 
landmark  in  Richmond  undoubtedly  is  St.  John 's 
Church,  where  Patrick  Henry  uttered  those  memorable 
words  that  have  echoed  down  the  years  with  signifi- 
cant intensity:     "Give  me  liberty  or  give  me  death!" 

There  were  two  early  churches  in  this  parish,  but 
their  history  is  somewhat  uncertain.  The  vestry  in 
—  99  — 


—  100  — 

1740  decided  to  erect  a  chiirc  h  in  1749  on  an  acre  of 
land  donated  by  William  Boyd.  Tlic  church  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  graveyard,  which  for  many  years  was 
the  only  one  in  Eichmond.  The  oldest  inscription  on 
the  tombstones  is  1751,  on  that  of  the  rector  of  Albe- 
marle parish,  the  Rev.  Rob 't  Rose, 

The  pulpit   was  in   the   east  end  of  the  church  and, 


Y        \/VL  i 

/     /       ^S^^a     '//VS.    «      '"^i; 

\  i  1  fvT  ^ 

jLijpl 

'Mi 

ST.    JOHN'S    CHURCH.    KICHMOND 

near  tlie  northern  wall,  between  the  first  row  of  seats 
and  the  chancel,  stood  Patrick  Henry  that  eventful 
20th  day  of  March,  1775. 

Concluding  his  stirring  appeal  to  arms,  he  said: 
''Gentlemen  may  cry,  peace,  peace — but  there  is  no 
peace.  The  war  is  actually  begun!  The  next  gale 
that  sweeps  from  the  north  will  bring  to  our  ears  the 
clash  of  resounding  arms!  Our  brethren  are  already 
in  the  field!  Why  stand  we  here  idle?  What  is  it 
that  gentlemen  wish?  What  would  they  have?  Is 
life  so  dear,  or  peace  so  sweet,  as  to  be  purchased  at 


101 


the  price  of  chains  and  slavery?  Forbid  it,  Almighty 
God!  I  know  not  what  course  others  may  take,  but  as 
for  me, ' '  he  cried,  ' '  Give  me  liberty  or  give  me 
death!  " 

''No  murmur  of  applause  was  heard,"  says  Wirt, 
his  biographer.  ''The  effect  was  too  deep.  After  a 
trance  of  a  moment,  several  members  started  from 
their  seats.      The   cry  'to   arms,'  seemed   to   quiver  on 


INTERIOR.   ST.  JOHN'S  CHURCH,  RICHMOND. 


every  lip,  and  gleam  from  every  eye.  That  super- 
natural voice  still  sounded  in  their  ears,  and  shivered 
along  their  arteries. ' '  And  here  the  visitor  still  feels 
the  sacred  presence  of  that  time-honored  patriot. 

During  the  Eevolutionary  period,  regular  services 
Avere  not  held  in  the  church,  and  in  1818  dissension 
in  the  parish  was  caused  by  the  proposal  to  either 
remove  the  church,  add  to  it,  or  build  a  new  one.  A 
new  church  was   finally   decided  upon  and   the   corner 


102 


stone  laid  by  the  Masonic  Lodge,  but  the  work  was 
eventually  abandoned.  In  1830  an  addition  was  made 
to  the  old  church  and  the  interior  remodeled. 

The  Capitol  of  the  Confederacy. — Located  on  Capitol 
Square.      This    venerable    structure    has    been    entirely 

remodeled  and  massive 
wings  have  been  added 
to  it  on  both  sides. 
Stately  stone  steps  lead 
up  to  its  portals,  pre- 
senting one  of  the  finest 
State  Houses  in  the 
country. 

Many  interesting  relics 
are  preserved  here, 
among  them  the  Speak- 
er's  Chair  of  the  House 
of  Burgesses  at  Wil- 
liamsburg, used  when 
Patrick  Henry  made  his 
celebrated  speech,  ' '  If 
this  be  treason — George 
the  Third  can  make  the 
most  of  it.' ' 
Another  Colonial  relic  is  the  old  stove  presented  to 
the  House  of  Burgesses  by  Lord  Botetourt,  Governor 
of  Virginia.  It  was  made  in  London  in  1770  by 
Buzaglo,  a  celebrated  stovemaker  of  that  period,  and 
was  called  by  him  a  ''warming  machine."  Before  it 
was  completed  the  Governor  died,  but  his  heirs  and 
executor,  the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  carried  out  his  pur- 
pose  and  forwarded  it  to   the  Colony. 

Capitol  Square. — At  one  corner  of  the  square  stands 
an    old-fashioned    building    surmounted    by    a    cupola. 


SPEAKER'S    CHAIR,    HOUSE 
OF    BURGESSES. 


103 


called  the  "Bell  Tower."  Prom  this  tower,  the  Con- 
federates surveyed  the  surrounding  country  on  the 
lookout  for  the  approach  of  Federal  troops.  Opposite 
the  State  House  is  an 
exquisite  life  size  ecpies- 
trian  statue  of  Gen. 
George  \Yashington,  who 
was  born  in  Virginia  in 
1732  and  died  at  Mt. 
Vernon,  Va.,  Dec.  14, 
1799.  In  the  center  court 
of  the  State  House  is 
another  beautiful  mar- 
ble statue  of  Washing- 
ton done  by  the  noted 
sculptor,  Houclon,  said 
to  be  the  only  one  made 
of  this  famous  soldier, 
patriot  and  statesman 
from  life.  So  lifelike  is 
it  that  the  tourist  stands 
entranced,  waiting  al- 
most for  the  marble  fig- 
ure to  move.  It  is  said 
that  France  has  offered 
the  '  City  of  Eichmond 
$100,000  for  this  almost 
priceless  work. 

The  Home  of  Gen. 
Robert  E.  Lee. — Now  oc- 
cupied by  the  Virginia  Historical  Society  and  used  as  a 
museum  of  Confederate  relics.  Eecords,  books,  maps, 
portraits  and  war  relics  here  abound  and  the  tourist 
or  student  of  history  cannot  afford  to  neglect  visiting 
the  home  of  this  celebrated  general. 


STOVE. 


Lh.-ES 


—  104  — 

Libby  Prison. — The  site  where  this  Confederate 
prison  was  located  is  now  occupied  by  the  Crystal 
Ice  Company,  the  original  building  having  been  re- 
moved to  the  World's  Fair  at  Chicago.  Belle  Isle, 
the  Confederate  prison  for  Confederate  soldiers,  is  an 
island  in  the  James  River,  accessible  from  Eichmond 
by  electric  cars. 

Hollywood. — The  Confederate  Cemetery.  Here  lie 
entombed  the  remains  of  Mr.  .Jefferson  Davis,  the 
President  of  the  Confederacy,  and  by  his  side  sleeps 
his  wife,  who  died  in  October,  1906.  On  Gettysburg 
Hill  is  a  monument  to  Gen  '1  Geo.  E.  Pickett. 

Other  Historic  Landmarks. — The  Soldiers'  Home 
for  Confederate  Soldiers  is  located  in  the  western  part 
of  tlie  city.  A  confectionery  store  on  Broad  and 
Ninth  Streets  marks  the  building  where  the  Confeder- 
acy printed  it.s  money.  The  Woman's  College,  Male 
Orphan  Asylum,  City  Alms  House,  Seabrook's  Ware 
House  and  Chimborazo  Hospitals,  were  each  used  as 
asylums  for  the  sick  and  wounded  soldiers  during  the 
war.  The  Confederate  Treasury  and  office  of  Jeft'erson 
Davis  were  located  in  the  post-office  building.  The 
Tredegar  Iron  Works,  where  the  material  for  the  Con- 
federate Army  was  manufactured,  is  still  running. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

BATTLEFIELDS    NEAR    RICHMOND. 

"On   Fame's   eternal    Camping  Ground 

Their   silent    tents   are   spread, 
While   glory   guards   with    solemn   round 

The  bivouac  of  the  dead."' 

Cold  Har^bor. — Nine  miles  northeast  of  Richmond 
in  Hanover  Co.,  near  the  Chickahominy  River.  June 
27,  1862,  a  battle  took  place  here  between  McClellau 
and  Lee's  forces  and  agfiin  on  June  2  to  4,  1864,  be- 
tween Gen.  Grant  and  Gen.  Lee,  ending  the  30-day 
campaign  of  the  Wilderness.  Grant  with  80,000  men 
threw  himself  upon  Lee 's  entrenchments,  but  was 
repulsed  in  less  than  an  hour  with  a  loss  of  6,000  men. 
The  Confederate  loss  was  less  than  2,000.  This  bat- 
tlefield has  been  converted  into  a  cemetery  where 
thousands  of  men  are  buried  in  trenches. 

Chester. — Between  Richmond  and  Petersburg.  May 
6-7,  1864.  Total  loss  100.  Fifteen  miles  south  of  the  city. 

Chaffin's  Bluff.— Sept  28,  1864.  Total  loss,  3,330. 
Entrenchments  can  still  be  seen.  Boat  can  be  taken 
on  James  River  or  it  can  be  reached  by  carriage. 

Dutch  Gap. — In  order  to  make  an  attack  on  the  Con- 
federates, Gen '1  Butler  cut  a  canal  across  the  country 
for  eight  miles  connecting  the  river  at  the  bend.  See 
map,  page   106. 

Darbytown. — Oct.  7,  1864,  Gen  'Is  Sherman  and  John- 
son in  command.     Total  loss  458 ;  5  m.  from  Richmond. 

Drewry's  Bluff.— May  12,  1864.  Total  loss,  2,506. 
Eight   miles   south   of   the   city. 

EUerson's  Mill. — Part  of  the  ''Seven  Days"  fight. 
Seven   miles   from   Richmond. 

Ft.  Harrison. — Visited  by  President  Lincoln  July 
— 105  — 


—  106  — 


^  FREDEI^ICKSBUffG 


SPOTTSYtVANIA 


BATTLE-FIELDS 
RICHMOND 


—  107  — 

8,  1862.  Eighty-five  thousand  Federal  troops  were 
stationed  here  at  that  time.  A  National  Cemetery  is 
located  here. 

.  Fair  Oaks. — (A  mile  and  a  half  from  Seven  Pines.) 
May  3,  1862,  the  battle  of  Seven  Pines  originated  here. 

Gaines  Mill. — (Eight  miles  northeast  of  Richmond.) 
June  27,  1862.  This  battle  was  a  continuation  of  that 
at  Mechanicsville,  McClellan's  forces  being  attacked 
by  those  of  Gen.  Lee,  the  former's  loss  being  nearly 
7,000  and  the  Confederates'  about  seven  hundred  more. 

Mechanicsville. — (Seven  miles  northeast  of  Eich- 
moud.)  June  26,  1862.  Part  of  the  '* Seven  Days' 
Battle."  See  Gaines  Mill.  A  part  of  McClellan's 
army  under  Fitz  John  Porter  was  attacked  here  by 
Longstreet  and  Hill. 

Savage  Station. — (Ten  miles  east  of  Richmond.) 
June  29,  1862.  Part  of  the  Seven  Days'  Battle  be- 
tween .Gen.  McClellan  and  Gen.  Lee's  forces.  Aban- 
doned' by  Union  forces  with  its  hospital  containing 
2,500  sick  and  wounded.     Total  loss  nearly  1,600. 

Seven  Pines. — (Seven  miles  east  of  Richmond.) 
May  31  arid  June  1,  1862,  Federal  and  Confederate 
forces  engaged.  Each  numbered  about  45,000.  Union 
loss  5,031;^  Confederate,  6,134.  Gen.  J.  E.  Johnson  in 
charge' of  Confederate  forces,  was  wounded  and  re- 
placed by  G.  W.  Smith.  McClellan  was  in  charge  of 
the  Federal  troops.  This  battle  was  commenced  at 
Fair  Oaks,  and  was  one  of  the  Seven  Days'  fight 
around  Richmond  and  the  first  great  conflict  between 
the  Confederate  Army  of  Northern  Virginia  and  the 
Federal  Army  of  the  Potomac. 

A  National  Cemetery  is  located  here  and  out  of 
1,380  graves  only   162  are  identified. 

"Yellow  Tavern."— May  11.  1864.     Total  loss,  259. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

ALEXANDRIA,   THE   HOME  OF   WASHINGTON   AND   LEE. 

Christ  Church. — Started  1767,  completed  1773,  for 
six  hundred  pounds  sterling.  A  tax  of  31,185  pounds 
of  tobacco  was  levied  upon  the  parish  for  this  pur- 
pose. The  exterior  is  typically  Colonial  and  the  edifice 
was  designed  by  James  Wren.     Pew  number  five  was 


CHRIST  CHURCH,  ALEXANDRIA. 


purchased  by  George  Washington.  Rev.  Townsend 
Dale  was  the  first  rector.  One  peculiar  custom  of  the 
early  church  was  the  employment  of  women  for  ushers 
and  sextons. 

—  108  — 


—  109  — 

Here  in  this  builtiiiig,  one  nioniing  after  service, 
George  Washington  publicly  advised  withdrawing 
allegiance  from  King  George.  The  high  backed  pews 
have  all  been  cut  down  with  the  exception  of  Wash- 
ington's, which  still  remains  as  it  was  in  Colonial 
days.  It  is  marked  by  a  silver  plate,  as  is  the  one 
formerly  occupied  by  Gen.  Eobt.  E.  Lee.  During  the 
war  the  church  was  seized  by  the  Federal  authorities, 
but  restored  after  peace  had  been  declared.  On  each 
side  of  the  chancel  are  mural  tablets,  one  in  honor 
of  Washington  and  the  other  in  memory  of  Robt.  E. 
Lee. 


Foreign  Sovereigns 

During  the  Colonial  Period. 

Spain. 

France. 

England. 

1578. 

..Philip  IL 

nonr;y 

'   IIL 

Elizabeth. 

1589. 

..Philip  IL        t 

Henry 

'  IV. 

Elizabeth. 

1602. 

..Philip  IIL 

Henr;^' 

IV. 

Elizabeth. 

1603. 

..Philip   IIL 

Henry 

IV. 

James  I. 

1621. 

..Philip  IV. 

Louis 

XIII. 

James  I. 

1627. 

..Philip  IV. 

Louis 

XIII. 

Charles  I. 

1643. 

..Philip  IV. 

Louis 

XIV. 

Charles  I. 

1651. 

..Philip  IV. 

Louis 

XIV. 

Cromwell. 

1662. 

..Philip  IV. 

Louis 

XIV. 

Charles  II. 

1665., 

.  .Charles  II. 

Louis 

XTV. 

Charles  II. 

1686., 

.  .  Charles  IL 

Louis 

XIV. 

James  II. 

1689.. 

..Charles  IL 

Louis 

XIV. 

William  &  Mary. 

1699.  . 

.Charles  IL 

Louis 

XIV. 

Anne. 

1701., 

,  .Pliilip  V. 

Louis 

XIV. 

Anne. 

1715.. 

.Philip  V. 

Louis 

XV. 

George   I. 

1729.. 

.Philip  V. 

Louis 

XV. 

George   IL 

1748.. 

.Ferdinand  VI. 

Louis 

XV. 

George   IL 

1760.. 

.Charles  III. 

Louis 

XV. 

George    III. 

1774.  . 

.Charles  III. 

Louis 

XVI. 

George    IIL 

1776.. 

.Charles  IIL 

Louis 

XVI. 

George   IIL 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

EARLY    COLONIAL    CHURCHES. 

The  history  of  the  early  church  in  America  is 
closely  woven  into  the  political  fabric  of  the   nation. 

The  first  white  child  born  in  America  was  baptized 
on  Roanoke  Island  in  1587  by  a  chaplain  of  Raleigh  's 
Colony.  The  first  church  service  was  celebrated  by 
"Good  Maister  Hunt"  at  Jamestown  in  1607.  The 
first  legislative  Assembly,  the  House  of  Burgesses, 
was  organized  by  Churchmen  and  met  in  the  church 
at  Jamestown.  Robt.  Livingston,  who  led  the  oppo- 
sition to  the  Stamp  Act,  was  a  Churchman.  Patrick 
Henry,  the  patriotic  orator;  I%yton  Randolph,  Presi- 
dent of  the  first  Continental  Congress;  Geo.  Wash- 
ington, Commander-in-Chief  of  the  army;  Richard 
Henry  Lee,  who  introduced  the  resolution  of  Inde- 
pendence in  the  second  Continental  Congress;  Thomas 
Jefferson,  who  drafted  the  Declaration,  and  thirty-five 
of  the  men  who  signed  it,  were  all  Churchmen.  Frank- 
lin, Hamilton  and  Madison,  with  a  host  of  other  pa- 
triots and  leaders,  were  identified  with  the  church 
and  during  Colonial  days,  we  find  the  "V^^ttymen  exer- 
cising semi-political  powers.  Aside  froinl  the  more  im- 
portant Colonial  churches  that  have  already  been  de- 
scribed, the  following  edifices  will  well  repay  any 
one  who  cares  to  visit  these  sacred  shrines: 

Old  Falls  Church. — (Fairfax  County.  Truro  Parish.) 
Built  about  1734.  Rebuilt  1769.  Truro  Parish.  Cost 
$3,000.  Washington  was  a  member  of  the  vesl^^^  in 
1763,  and  also  George  Mason,  author  of'  ¥he'  *<Bin  of 

.        _uol  .■;  "'-"■■' ■•.«^' 


—  Ill  — 

Riglits. ''  Tlie  fhnrchyard  is  said  to  have  been  the 
camping  jiround  of  Braddock's  Army  and  the  building 
was  occupied  by  sohliers  during  the  Eevolution,  and 
by  the  Federal  troops  during  the  Civil  War.  A  long 
list  of  distinguished  names  are  recorded  as  ministers 
and  communicants  at  this  sacred  shrine.  Efforts  are 
now  being  made  to  complete  its  entire  restoration. 

^^olvick. — (Mount  Vernon.  Truro  Parish.)  The 
parrsli  church  of  George  Washington  and  George 
Mason.  The  first  record  in  the  vestry  book  is  dated 
1732.  Tbo  first  minister  was  Eev.  Lawrence  de  Butts. 
Washington's  father  was  vestryman  in  1735.  George 
Mason  became  warden  in  1749.  On  October  25,  1762, 
George  Washington  was  elected  vestryman.  It  is  said 
Washington  drew  the  plan  of  the  present  church  in 
1769.  Like  other  Virginia  churches,  the  edifice  suf- 
fered much  during  the  Civil  War.  In  1874  it  was 
repaired  and  renovated  and  consecrated  in  October, 
1S75.     The  entire  restoration  is  now  in  progress. 

Aquia  Church. — (Stafford  Co.)  Founded  about 
1664.  Rev.  John  Waugh,  probably  the  first  rector. 
A  communion  service  of  three  pieces  of  beaten  silver 
donated  to  the  church  by  Rev.  Mr.  Alexander  Scott, 
A.  M.,  1739,  is  still  in  use  by  the  church,  and  during 
the  wars  of  the  Revolution,  the  War  of  1812  and  the 
Civil  War,  they  were  buried  for  safe  keeping. 

The  present  church  was  erected  1757  on  the  site 
of  one  built  in  1751,  which  was  destroyed  by  fire. 
Over  the  east  door  is  the  following  inscription  in  white 
letters: 

''Built  A.  D.  1751,  Destroyed  by  fire  1751,  and  re- 
built A.  T>.  1757  by  Mourning  Richards,  Undertaker, 
Wm.  ('opeirs,  Mason."  In  1837  the  building  was  in 
ruins,  but  was  restored   before  the   war.     During  the 


112 


Civil  War  it  was   used   b}'  soldiers   an<l   again   almost 
destroyed,  but   once   more  restored. 

St.  Peter's  Church. — (New  Kent  Co.)  Probably 
founded  about  1656.  Rev.  .John  Ball  was  the  rector 
in  1686,  The  present  church  was  built  about  1703. 
The  Rev.  David  Mossom  was  minister  for  forty  years, 
and  was  considered  a  quaint  old  character,  especially 
noted  for  his  temper.  He  married  Geo.  Washington 
and  Martha  Custis  at  the  White  House  on  the  Pa- 
munkey  River,  a  few  miles  from  the  church.  He  died 
]767.  The  church  is  located  near  Turnstall's  Station, 
20  miles  east  of  Richmond. 

Hungar's  Church. — (Northampton  Co.)  Seven  miles 
north  of  Eastville.  Built  about  1690  and  in  actual  use 
for  more  than  200  years.  First  minister  Rev.  William 
Cotton  (1635).  The  Communion  Set  used  by  the 
lower  Hungar  Church  was  presented  by  .John  Custis 
of  Williamsburg,  and  is  now  in  use  by  Christ  Church, 
Eastville. 

Christ  Church. — (Eastville,  Northampton  Co.)  Built 
about  1826.  The  Communion  Set  used  by  this  church 
bears  the  inscription: 

"Ex  dono  Francis  Nicholson," 
Lieut.  Governor  of  Virginia,  1690-2. 
Christ  Church.— (Lancaster  Co.)  Built  1732.  The 
parish  was  organized  prior  to  1654,  as  Rev.  Thos.  Sax 
was  the  recorded  minister  at  that  date.  The  first 
church  on  the  present  site  was  built  1670.  The  famous 
CoL  Robert  Carter,  known  as  King  Carter,  paid  for 
the  erection  of  the  new  building  in  1732,  the  entire 
north  cross  of  the  building  being  reserved  for  his 
family.  He  was  buried  in  the  churchyard,  where  his 
tomb  can  still  be  seen.  The  walls  of  the  ahurch  are 
three   feet   thick.      There   are    twenty-five   pews,   three 


—  113  — 

of   which,    designed   for   the    Carter   family,    will   con- 
tain twenty  persons  each. 

VaiTter's  Church. — (Essex  Co.)  St.  Anne's  Parish. 
Built  about  1714.  Earliest  recorded  minister  was 
Rev.  John  Bagge,  1724.  A  cruciform  brick  building. 
Its  windows  are  guarded  by  solid  wooden  shutters. 
The  church  stands  in  a  grove  of  walnut  and  oak  and 
is  a  venerable  landmark  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Among  other  historic  churches  are  the   following: 

Abingdon  Church. — (Gloucester  Co.)  About  15 
miles  from  Jamestowu.  A  Register  bearing  date  1677  is 
still  in  existence.  In  this  territory  occurred  the  Poca- 
hontas incident,  so  tradition  claims.  In  the  first  church 
located  here  worshipped  Mildred  Warner,  grandmother 
of  George  Washington.  The  present  building  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  built  in  1755. 

St.  Paul's  Church. — (King  George  Co.)  -  Erected 
about  1750. 

The  Fork  Church. — (Hanover  Co.)     Built  1735.   Here 
Patrick   Henry  was  baptised  when  an  infant   and  here 
liis   cousin   Dorothea,   later   Dolly    Madison,    worshipped. 

The  complete  history  of  Virginia's  Colonial  churches 
would  fill  a  large  volume. 


PART   II. 

THE  EXPOSITION  IN  BRIEF. 

Opened  April  26,  1907.  Closes  November  30,  1907. 
Gates  open  8  a.  ni.  Close,  11  p.  m.  Government 
buildings,  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

Admission. — Adults,  50  cents;   children,  25  cents. 

Powhatan  Guards. — Constitutes  the  police  force  of 
100  men. 

Grounds. — Cover  400  acres,  located  on  Hampton 
Roads,  five  miles  from  Norfolk  City  limits,  four  from 
Old  Point  Comfort  and  five  from  Newport  News.  The 
grounds  have   three  miles   of  water  front. 

Lee's  Parade. — A  beautiful  plaza  comprising  many 
acres,  partially  surrounded  by  the  Exposition  Palaces, 
nearly  half  a  mile  wide  and  a  mile  long.  Here  mili- 
tary evolutions  will  take  place,  forming  a  gorgeous 
s])cctacle   seldom   ever  witnessed. 

Plan. — Stretching  along  the  historic  waters  of  Hamp- 
ton Eoads  for  three  miles,  the  Exposition  presents  an 
unusual  spectacle  of  beauty  and  splendor.  The  stylo 
i)f  architecture  is  Colonial,  the  buildings  low  in  height, 
but  covering  an  immense  area  of  space.  White,  yellow 
and  red  are  the  prevailing  colors.  The  key  to  the 
Exposition  plan  lies  within  the  confines  of  Common- 
wealth avenue.  The  Administration  Building  forms 
the  center  of  the  mammoth  palaces.  It  faces  the 
Lagoons  and  Raleigh  Square,  giving  a  fine  view  of  the 
Grand  Basin  and  the  Government  Piers.  Along  the 
—  114  — 


— 115  — 

water  front  are  the  State  Buildings  and  entering  the 
main  gate,  directly  to  the  left,  is  the  War  Path. 
The  principal  palaces  are  as  follows: 
Administration  Building. — 160x236  feet.  Located  on 
Pocahontas  street,  opposite  the  Lagoons.  A  Colonial 
structure  of  red  brick  and  concrete  designed  for  per- 
manent use.  The  principal  Exposition  building.  The 
center  building  is  the  Auditorium  and  is  connected 
by  colonnades  with  the  History  Building  on  thie  east 
and  the  Educational  and  Social  Economy  Building  on 
the  west,  each  of  which  covers  124x129  feet. 

Food  Products  Building. — 250x300  feet.  On  Poca- 
hontas street  and  Commonwealth  avenue,  and  Gilbert 
street.  Here  elaborate  displays  of  food  stuffs  will  be 
on  exhibition.  Machinery  used  in  the  preparation  of 
food  stuffs  will  be  shown  in  actual  operation. 

Mines  and  Metallurgy. — 100x250  feet.  A  beautiful 
Colonial  structure  of  permanent  construction  on  Poca- 
hontas street  and  Commonwealth  avenue,  opposite 
the  Macliinery  and  Transportation  Building.  Here 
may  be  found  specimens  of  coal,  gold,  silver,  copper, 
iron,  marble,  onjx,  building  stone  and  other  minerals 
from  the  crude  ore  to  the  finished  products. 

Machinery  and  Transportation  Building. — 280x550 
feet.  Situated  on  Pocahontas  street  and  Common- 
wealtli  avenue.  Separated  from  the  Liberal  Arts 
Building  by  the  Lagoon.  In  this  structure  may  be 
seen  the  carriage  presented  to  Lafayette  by  the  United 
States  government;  also  the  state  coach  used  by  Presi- 
dent Lincoln  the  night  of  his  assassination.  Steel 
Pullman  coaches,  railroad  trains,  machinery  and  me- 
chanical devices  of  all  descriptions  are  exhibited  in  this 
handsome  palace. 

States'  Exhibit  Palace.— 300x500  feet.  The  type  of 
arr-liitecture    of    this   structure,   like    all    tlie    othor   ]ial- 


—  116  — 

aces,  is  Colonial.  It  faces  Lee's  Parade  on  Common- 
wealth avenue.  Along  the  facade  appear  the  names 
of  the  states  having  special  exhibits  within  this  build- 
ing. Fruits,  vegetables,  grains,  woods,  minerals  and 
a  host  of  other  products  are  displayed  in  profusion. 

Manufactures  and  Liberal  Arts  Building. — 280x550 
feet.  Pocahontas  street,  Commonwealth  avenue  and 
Powhatan  street.  A  permanent  structure  of  Colonial 
style.  Here  may  be  seen  a  varied  display  of  manu- 
factures, books  and  publications.  Laird  &  Lee's  booth, 
section  28,  contains  an  exhibit  of  the  firm's  many 
books,  including  the  famous. series  of  Webster's  New 
Standard  Dictionaries,  adopted  for  use  in  the  schools 
of  many  leading  cities  and  awarded  Gold  Medal  at 
the  St.   Louis  and  Poi'tland    Expositions. 

Arts  and  Crafts  Village. — Iron  Shop,  48x50  feet. 

Copper,  Silver  and  Wood  Shop. — 44x137  feet. 

Textile  Building.— 53xSS  feet. 

Mothers'  and  Children's  Building. — 60x100  feet. 
Willoughby   boulevard   and  Bacon   street. 

Model  School. — 35x45  feet. 

Pottery  Building.— 48x50  feet. 

Pocahontas  Hospital. — 50x85  feet. 

Hall  of  Congress.— 236x160  feet. 

Army  and  Navy  Building. — Powhatan  street  and 
Commonwealth  avcnu(\ 

Negro  Building. — 250x350  feet.     Maryland  avenue. 

Palaces  of  Commerce. — Entrance  to  War  Path. 

Marine  Appliances. — Opposite  Mines  and  Metallurgy 
Building. 

Power  and  Alcohol  Building. — Near  Lee's  Parade. 

Grand  Piers. — 2,400  feet  long,  800  feet  wide,  con- 
nected by  cross  piers,  1,200  feet  long,  at  a  distance 
of  2,400  feet  from  shore,  forming  a  water  basin  in  the 


—  117  — 

center  of  40  acres.     Cost  $400,000.     Built  by  the  gov- 
ernment. 

Government  Buildings. — Facing  the  Grand  Basin. 
Separated  from  each  other  by  Ealeigh  Square.  Two 
center  buildings  represent  the  Fisheries  Building  and 
Smithsonian  Building.  The  Navy,  Army,  Postoffice, 
Agricultural,  State,  Treasury  and  other  departments 
are  well  represented  in  these  structures. 

STATE  BUILDINGS  AND  EXHIBITS. 

The  State  Buildings  are  located  along  the  shore  line, 
on  Willoughby  boulevard,  and  the  Main  Exposition 
Palaces  in  the  center  of  the  grounds  in  front  of  Lee's 
Parade.  The  government  structures  face  the  piers, 
and  the  Arts  and  Crafts  Buildings  are  east  of  the 
Parade  Grounds. 

The  following  states  have  made  appropriations  or 
have  provided  funds  by  special  subscription  and  many 
of  the  buildings  provided  for  have  been  completed. 

Alabama,  $25,000;  Arkansas,  $15,000;  Connecticut, 
$70,000;  Delaware,  $10,000;  Georgia,  $50,000;  Illinois, 
$25,000;  Kentucky,  $40,000;  Louisiana,  $15,000;  Mary- 
land, $65,000;  Michigan,  $20,000;  Missouri,  $40,000; 
Massachusetts,  $50,000;  New  Jersey,  $75,000;  North 
Dakota,  $15,000;  New  York,  $150,000;  North  Carolina, 
$55,000;  Ohio,  $75,000;  Pennsylvania,  $100,000;  Ehode 
Island,  $50,000;  South  Carolina,  exhibij:,  $20,000;  Vir- 
ginia, $450,000;  Vermont,  $10,000;  New  Hampshire, 
$10,000;  West  Virginia,  $55,000. 
Arkansas. 

Arkansas  will  be  represented  in  the  States'  Exhibit 
Palace. 

Alabama. 

Alabama  appropriated  $25,000  for  an  exhibit.  Cot- 
ton   and   iron    are    exploited,   while    timber   and   other 


118 


products  come  in  for  their  share  in  the  display.  A 
part  of  the  exhibit  is  the  mammoth  iron  statue  of 
Vulcan,  from  Birmingham. 

California. 
Los  Angeles  has  an  exhibit  of  pictures,  samples  of 
every  kind  of  fruits  and  vegetables  raised  in  Southern 
California,    exhibits    of    the    different    industries    and 
manufactories. 

Connecticut. 

Connecticut  has  reproduced  the  famous  Benjamin 
Talmage  home,  located  at  Litchfield,  which  was 
the  first  Colonial  mansion  erected  in  Connecticut.  The 
owner  was  intrusted  with  the  execution  of  Major 
Andre,  the  British  spy,  and  in  this  house  were  planned 
many  of  the  successful  campaigns  of  the  Revolution. 
The  great  entrance  has  its  walls  finished  in  soft  old 
Venetian  red  and  furnished  in  pieces  of  the  seven- 
teenth century.  In  the  drawing  room  is  a  choice  col- 
lection of  furniture  of  the  eighteenth  century,  includ- 
ing very  fine  mirrors  of  Washington  design.  Queen 
Anne  and  Chippendale  sofa,  covered  in  an  ancient 
flowered  pattern,  will  be  noticeable.  The  tea  room 
is  ' '  Empire, ' '  the  treatment  being  yellow  with  a  rare 
set  of  First  Empire  furniture. 

Delaware. 

Delaware,  the  ''Diamond  State,"  has  a  building  of 
Colonial  hip-roofed  design  with  a  parquet  gallery  run- 
ning around  both  interior  and  exterior,  the  Delaware 
coat-of -arms  over  the  doorway  and  the  word  *  *  Dela- 
ware'' impressed  upon  the  side  wall.  With  Colonial 
porches,  old-time  cornices  and  immense  brick  chimneys 
at  each  end  of  the  building,  it  is  an  exceedingly  at- 
tractive and  creditable  building. 


—  119  — 

Florida. 
Florida  will  have  an  exhibit  of  fruit  and  flowers 
and  also  au  historical  collection.  Wide  attention  is 
being  attracted  in  floricultural  circles  and  from  sci- 
entists making  a  special  study  of  flower-breeding,  to 
the  pollen  collection,  invented  by  Prof.  E,  Moulie  of 
Jacksonville.  Professor  Moulie  will  exhibit  his  vari- 
ous perfumes,  surrounded  by  the  flowers  from  which 
they  are  made,  and  with  each  step  in  the  process  illus- 
trated. 

Georgia. 
The  Georgia  Building  is  a  representation  of  ''Bul- 
loch Hall,"  at  Eosewell,  Georgia.  ''Bulloch  Hall'' 
was  the  home  of  Mattie  Bulloch,  mother  of  President 
Roosevelt,  and  here  she  was  married  to  the  President 's 
father.  The  reproduction  of  this  building  typifies  sev- 
eral periods  in  the  history  of  the  Empire  State  of 
the  South,  The  builder  of  the  house  was  second  Gov- 
ernor of  Georgia;  Archibald  Bulloch,  the  President's 
uncle,  was  a  captain  in  the  Confederate  navy,  and 
his  brother,  James,  was  an  officer  in  Lee's  army.  The 
twelve  rooms  of  this  building  will  be  furnished  by 
the  leading  cities  of  the  state,  including  Atlanta,  Sa- 
vannah, Columbia,  Macon,  Valdosta,  Waycross,  States- 
boro,  Albany  and  Cordele.  The  state  appropriated  the 
sum  of  $50,000  for  an  exhibit  at  the  Jamestown  Ex- 
position and  the  funds  for  the  erection  of  the  building 
have  been -raised  by  popular  subscription.  The  State 
Building  fronts  on  Willoughby  boulevard  and  the 
waters  of  Hampton  Roads  and  is  a  handsome  structure 
of  Colonial  architecture. 

Illinois. 
Illinois  has  a  beautiful  Colonial  building  of  pressed 
brick  veneer,  with  stall  trimmings,  with  wide  porches 
and  verandas.     The   main   reception  hall   is  a  feature 


—  120  — 

of  the  attractiveness  of  the  Illiuois  Building,  with 
its  immense  fireplace,  broad  stairs  and  spacious  win- 
(lip.v  seats,  giving  the  entire  building  an  air  of  hos- 
pitality. The  walls  of  the  reception  room  are  dec- 
orated Math  the  Lincoln  Exhibit,  now  in  the  hands  of 
the  Historical  Society,  at  Springfield.  Illinois  will 
make  quite  an  exhibit  in  her  state  building,  but  space 
in  the  other  structures  has  also  been  filled  with  ex- 
hibits illustrative  of  the  industries  of  the  state. 
Indiana. 

Indiana  is  endeavoring   to   secure   funds  by  popular 
subscription    for   an    exhibit    in    historical   and    educa- 
tional lines.     Some  of  the  large  manufacturing  indus- 
tries of  the  state  have  exhibits. 
Kentucky. 

Kentucky  has  rol)uilt  Daniel  Boone's  fort  in  a  grove 
of  stalwart  pines  in  the  northwestern  corner  of  the 
Exposition  grounds,  the  logs  for  the  construction  of 
the  same  being  shipped  from  various  sections  of  the 
''Blue  Grass  State,"  some  of  them  from  the  site  of 
the  original  fort  at  Boonesboro.  There  are  two  main 
buildings,  each  twenty  feet  square,  and  connected  by 
a  roof  twenty  feet  wide.  The  building  has  a  twenty 
foot  veranda  running  the  full  length  of  each  side. 
Four  cabins,  each  twenty  feet  square,  are  erected  in 
addition.  These  will  be  used  as  offices  and  probably 
for  exhibit  purposes. 

Louisiana. 

Louisiana  State  Building  is  46  by  59  feet  in  size, 
two  stories  in  height  and  of  Colonial  architecture. 
It  has  a  15-foot  gallery  in  front,  with  eight  columns 
and  a  similar  gallery  on  the  side.  The  front  of  the 
building  is  almost  entirely  of  glass.  Special  effort 
Avill  be  made  to  make  a  very  striking  exhibit  of  the 
rice,   sugar   and   cotton   industry   and   of   the   forestry, 


—  121  — 

mineral  and  oyster  resources  of  Louisiana.  The  sugar 
exhibit  will  consist  of  samples  of  sugar  canes,  a  wax 
model  of  a  cane  field,  with  miniature  laborers  in  the 
act  of  cutting  the  stalks,  and  miniature  cane  field  im- 
plements. A  lifelike  wax  model  of  the  cotton  plant, 
showing  the  leaves,  flowers,  pods  and  open  bolls,  in 
addition  to  stalks  of  the  genuine  cotton  plants  of  the 
most  promising  varieties  grown  in  the  state,  with  seed 
cottons,  lint  cottons,  cotton  seed  products,  such  as 
hulls,  meals,  cake  and  fertilizers;  cotton  oils,  crude 
and  refined;  lard  substitutes,  cotton  goods,  cotton 
stalk  paper,  together  with  a  model  cotton  gin  and 
photos  of  cotton  fields  are  on  exhibition. 
New  Jersey. 

The  New  Jergey  State  Building  fronts  on  Matoaka 
place  and  the  Boulevard.  It  is  a  stately  structure  of 
pure  Colonial  architecture.  The  building  is  two  sto- 
ries in  height,  and  is  said  to  be  a  replica  of  General 
Washington's  headquarters  at  Morristown.  The  cost 
was  $26,000. 

North  Dakota. 

The  site  of  the  North  Dakota  Building  is  in  the 
midst  of  those  selected  b}^  Virginia,  Maryland,  Ohio 
and  Pennsylvania,  and  commands  a  beautiful  view  of 
the  Hampton  Eoads.  The  lot  is  50  by  165  feet  and 
the  attractive  building  is  located  with  a  view  of 
being  easy  of  access  to  all  parts  of  the  grounds,  as 
well  as  having  a  clear  outlook  upon  the  great  body  of 
water  beygnd.  The  building  is  completely  furnished 
and  has  a  delightful  reception  room,  20  by  40  feet, 
with  all  modern  conveniences. 

North  Carolina. 

The  ''Old  North  State"  has  produced  a  fine  Co- 
lonial residence,  with  large  columns  and  ample  porches 
in    front.      The    interior   is   of   North    Carolina    yellow 


—  122  — 

pine  furuiture  finish  and  the  furnishiugs  throughout 
are  from  North  Carolina  furniture  and  textile  fac- 
tories. The  appropriation  of  this  state  was  $55,000 
for  building  and  exhibit,  besides  $5,000  for  an  exhibit 
by  the  colored  race  of  the  state. 
New  York. 

New  York  has  a  large  Colonial  mansion  at  the 
water 's  very  edge.  It  is  modeled  from  ' '  Arlington, ' ' 
the  Lee  homestead  across  the  Potomac  from  the  city 
of  Washington,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  dome  resem- 
bling that  which  adorns  the  Congressional  Library 
at  Washington.  The  building  is  to  cost  $31,500,  and 
is  located  in  one  of  the  most  advantageous  positions 
on  the  grounds.  The  Colonial  Dames  of  the  Empire 
State  have  brought  together  a  wonderful  collection  of 
antiques  and  relics.  Slippers  worn  by  a  Colonial  belle 
at  her  wedding;  queer  school  books,  out  of  which  the 
children  learned  their  lessons;  state  papers  over  which 
the  makers  of  the  Republic  l)ent  their  powdered  heads; 
silver  dishes,  silhouettes  and  pictures,  historical  docu- 
ments, newspapers,  etc. 

New  Hampshire. 

This  building  is  a  reproduction  of  the  one  erected 
by  Governor  Langdon  in  1784  and  occupied  by  him 
until  his  death,  in  1819.  Langdon  was  one  of  the 
great  New  Hampshire  men  and  ranks  high  among  the 
heroes  of  the  Eevolution,  He  was  one  of  the  first  sena- 
tors and  also  had  the  distinction  of  being  the  first 
president  pro  tem  of  the  United  States  senate.  The 
New  Hampshire  Colonial  Dames  of  America  have  con- 
tributed an  exhibit  to  the  Jamestown  Exposition, 
among  which  are  pottery,  valuable  pieces  of  old  fur- 
niture, a  traveling  case  of  solid  mahogany  filled  with 
cut  glass,  bottles  and  glasses,  these  having  been  the 
property  of  Colonel  Cilley  before  the  Eevolution;  also 


123 


a  miniature  of  Brig,  Gen.  Enoch  Poor,  old  fans,  laces, 
old  prints,  manuscripts  and  costumes.  Among  the 
latter  is  a  piece  of  the  wedding  dress  of  the  wife  of 
Governor  Tristan  Cossyn,  who  was  one  of  the  early 
governors  of  that  period. 

Missouri. 
Missouri  has  provided  a  fine  Colonial  structure.  The 
building  is  of  red  brick,  with  its  stately  porticos  and 
verandas.  This  stately  mansion  presents  a  singular 
aspect  of  dignity  and  repose  combined.  In  appearance 
it  is  not  unlike  the  Virginia  Building.  Colonial  in 
design,  it  lacks  the  boldness  of  execution  involved  in 
that  type,  its  severity  being  tempered  with  an  elab- 
orate profuseness  of  ornamentation  quite  fascinating 
to  the  artistic  contemplation. 

Michigan. 
Michigan  has  an  appropriation   of  $20,000,  and  will 
have  a  building  on  Bennett  Circle.    The  state  will  have 
an    extensive    agricultural,    horticultural    and    forestry 
exhibit.     (See  map  on  page  2.) 

Maryland. 

Maryland  reproduced  as  her  building  at  the  James- 
town Exposition  the  home  of  Charles  Carroll  of  Car- 
rollton.  Carroll  was  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declara- 
tion of  Independence  and  survived  all  the  others  by 
half  a  dozen  years.  One  room  of  the  building  is  a 
replica  of  the  old  senate  chamber  at  Annapolis,  where 
AVashington  resigned  his  commission  as  Commander-in- 
Chief  of  the  army.  The  building  has  a  length  of  240 
feet.  The  main,  building  is  70  by  64  feet,  the  repro- 
duction of  the  senate  chamber  40  by  36  feet,  and  the 
entrance  hall  25  by  38  feet.  A  dozen  rooms  are  pro- 
vided for  the  convenience  of  the  visitors. 


—  124  — 

Massachusetts. 

Massachusetts  has  attempted  a  reproduction  of  the 
old  State  House,  as  it  stands  at  the  head  of  State 
street,  Boston,  The  structure  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  and  quaint  in  the  group  of  State  Buildings. 
The  first  story  is  given  over  to  the  entrance  and  ex- 
hibit halls,  the  circular  staircase  hall,  the  old  stairway 
being  reproduced  faithfully;  the  commission's  offices, 
curator 's  room,  lavatories,  etc.  The  main  feature  of 
the  second  story  is  an  exact  reproduction  of  the  fa- 
mous old  council  chamber  where  James  Otis  warred 
against  Writs  of  Assistance,  and  the  Eepresentatives' 
hall,  the  scene  of  so  many  stirring  events.  There  is 
the  historic  balcony,  the  exterior  as  it  was  in  Colonial 
days,  the  whole  surmounted  by  the  lion  and  the  uni- 
corn. The  historical  collection  from  Massachusetts 
is  valued  at  more  than  $100,000.  The  articles  compris- 
ing this  collection  were  all  in  use  in  Massachusetts 
families  prior  to  the  time  of  the  Ee volution,  and  the 
exhibit  is,  therefore,  distinctively  Colonial. 
Ohio. 

Ohio  has  reproduced  in  cement  block  a  model  of 
''Adena,"  the  first  stone  house  erected  west  of  the 
Alleghany  mountains,  and  for  several  years  the  home 
of  Governor  Worthington,  when  the  capital  of  the 
state  was  at  Chillicothe.  The  furnishings  of  the  house 
are  faithful  to  the  times  when  the  house  was  built,  A 
fire-proof  section  contains  the  $25,000  archgeological 
exhibit  of  Ohio, 

Oklahoma. 

This  new  addition  to  the  Union  of  States  will  be 
well  represented  at  the  Exposition  with  exhibits  from 
her  fertile  fanns,  abundant  orchard^s  and  flourishing 
gardens.  Funds  are  being  subscribed  for  a  building 
also,  and  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  its  first  legis- 


—  125  — 

lature  has  not  been  elected  a  site  at  the  Exposition 
has  been  engaged.  The  site  selected  is  in  the  western 
portion  of  the  grounds. 

Oregon. 
Forty  pretty  young  women  from  Oregon  will  come 
to  the  Exposition  dressed  in  Indian  garb.  The-  scheme 
is  one  of  the  most  novel  yet  suggested  for  the  Expo- 
sition. It  is  proposed  to  select  forty  of  the  most 
comely  women  in  the  state  of  Oregon  and  send  them 
on  a  tour  of  th.e  United  States.  They  will  be  dressed 
in  Indian  costume,  and  will  advertise  the  state  of 
Oregon.  Their  trip  w"ill  include  a  three  weeks'  stay 
at  the  Exposition.  The  party  will  be  at  the  Exposi- 
tion cither  in  July  or  August. 

Pennsylvania. 
Pennsylvania  has  constructed  a  replica  of  old  Inde- 
pendence Hall  of  Philadelphia.  A  mammoth  four-face 
electric  illumination  clock  ornaments  the  tower  and 
all  the  lines  of  the  tower  will  be  illuminated  by  rows 
of  electric  lights.  Original  buildings  of  the  Univer- 
sitj  of  Pennsylvania  will  be  shown  in  miniature  by  a 
unique  model. 

Ehode  Island. 
The  Ehode  Island  Building  is  a  replica  of  the  first 
capitol    of   that    state.      Ehode    Island    State    day   will 
be    on    the    anniversary   of    the   battle    of   Lake    Erie, 
Tuesday,  September  10. 

South  Carolina. 
South  Carolina  will  expend  her  entire  appropriation 
on  an  exhibit.  The  exhibit  will  be  arranged  under 
the  heads  of  agriculture,  forestry,  Clemson  College, 
cotton  manufactures,  undeveloped  water  powers,  min- 
eral waters,  historical,  general  manufactures  and  min- 
erals. The  tea  exhibit  from  this  state  will  be  very 
complete,   the   United    States   Department    of   Agricul- 


—126— 

tiire  having  agreed  to  turn  over  its  exhibit  to  the 
South  Carolina  exhibit,  and  this  exhibit  will  be  sup- 
plemented by  photographs,  bottled  goods  in  all  shapes, 
plants,  etc.,  and,  taken  as  a  whole,  the  tea  exhibit  will 
be  very  complete.  South  Carolina  has  been  given  a 
space  in  the  States'  Exhibit  Building,  214  by  18  feet, 
and  has  been  placed  on  the  artistic  installation  of  the 
exhibits  to  make  them  attractive  and  spectacular.  A 
large  relief  map  of  Charleston  harbor  is  a  part  of  the 
exhibit.      ''South    Carolina    Day"   is   June   28. 

Virginia. 

Virginia  presents  a  beautiful  type  of  Colonial  archi- 
tecture. The  building  has  a  frontage  of  116  feet, 
including  the  side  porches.  It  is  of  brick,  with  stone 
and  marble  ornamentation.  The  front  elevation  pre- 
sents the  harmonious  effects  of  Ionic  elegance  com- 
bined with  Doric  simplicity.  Lofty  Corinthian  col- 
umns surmounted  with  Acanthus  leaf  capitals  support 
the  roof  projection  above  an  imposing  entrance.  The 
building  is  designed  for  reception  and  entertaining 
only. 

Vermont. 

Vermont  is  constructing  a  model  summer  home,  a 
feature  for  which  the  "Green  Mountain  State"  is 
becoming  noted.  It  will  be  about  24  by  34  feet  in 
dimensions  and  a  story  and  a  half  high.  The  lewed" 
floor  will  be  one  ,room,  set  apart  to  receive  visitors, 
and  will  be  finished  in  hard  pine  and  furnished  appro- 
priately. A  broad  piazza  will  face  Hampton  Roads, 
A  writing  room  and  toilet  rooms  will  occupy  the  upper 
floor.  Vermont  will  have  exhibits  in  marble,  slate, 
granite  building  stone,  maple  sugars  and  syrups,  pure 
foods,  dairy  products,  fruits,  fish  and  game. 


-12" 


West  Virginia. 
The  West  A^irginia  Bnilrliiig  has  a  fine  location  oti 
the  Boulevard.  It  has  a  brick  foundation,  frame  su- 
perstructures, built  on  the  old  Colonial  plan,  with 
porches  and  columns  in  front  and  on  the  sides  and 
terraces  connecting  the  porches.  Near  the  building 
will  be  an  obelisk  of  West  Virginia  coal,  40  by  40  feet 
at  the  base  and  160  feet  high.  It  will  be  laid  in 
obelisk  form,  a  strata  for  each  county  of  the  state, 
and  illuminated  by  electric  lights,  forming  an  exhibit 
visible  far  out  to  sea.  A  large  space  in  the  States' 
Exhibit  Palace  has  been  secured  for  a  display  of  the 
products  of  the  '  *  Little  Mountain  State. ' '  In  the 
Historic  Eelie  Building  will  be  placed  that  part  of  the 
collection  which  pertains  to  the  Burr-Blennerhassett 
consjjiracy,  James  Kumsey's  steamboat  and  John 
Brown's  insurrection,  with  such  other  material  as  is 
illustrative  of  that  part  of  the  state's  history  which 
is  of  national  world-wide  importance.  Among  the 
articles  exhibited  is  the  pack  saddle  used  a  hundred 
years  ago  in  carrying  salt  from  Winchester  to  Clarks- 
burg, the  large  spinning  wheel,  the  reel,  winding  blade, 
reeds,  the  little  flax  spinning  wheel,  the  flax  brake, 
scutching  knife  and  scutching  block  implements  used 
in  making  the  jeans,  linsey  linen  and  tow  linen,  which 
clothed  the  West  Virginia  pioneers  in  the  infant  <lays 
of  the  Eepublic. 

THE  WAR  PATH. 

What  the  Midway  v.as  to  Chicago,  the  Pike  to  the 
Louisiana  Purchase  Exposition  and  the  Trail  to  the 
Lewis  and  Clark  Exposition,  the  War  Path  is  to  the 
Jamestown  Exposition. 

A  few  of  the  more  important  concessions  are  as  fol- 
lows: ^ 


—128— 

Freil  Lift. — What  the  Eiffc4  Tower  was  to  Paris, 
and  the  Ferris  Wheel  to  Chicago,  the  Freil  Lift  will  be 
to  Jamestown.  It  looks  much  like  a  windmill, 
with  airships  attached  to  the  arms,  and  while  the  arms 
are  ^oing  around  the  upright  on  which  they  turn  is 
also  going  around. 

.  Fair  Japan. — A  typical  street  scene,  such  as  would 
be  found  in  Tokio.  The  street  is  lined  with  little 
^hops  and  natives  are  selling  their  wares.  A  native 
theater  and  restaurant  will  show  the  Japs  in  their 
histrionic  and  gastronomic  life.  A  Tea  Garden  will 
be  sure  to  entice  the  passerby.  There  is  a  pagoda 
here  and  various  other  things  Japanese  in  architecture, 
eueh  as  T)ridges  and  bazaars. 

Old  Williamsburg. — Colonial  Virginia  will  be  pre- 
sented in  a  building  wdiich  will  be  a  copy  of  the  old 
House  of  Burgesses  in  Williamslmrg.  A  moving  pic- 
ture drama  in  which  the  old  worthies  Mali  appear  in 
characteristic  costume.  Leading  and  dramatic  inci- 
dents will  be  incorporated  and  the  production,  it  is 
said,  will  be  of  genuine  historic  and  artistic  interest. 

Old  Mill. — The  Old  Virginia  Corn  Cracker  has  been 
|-ransferred  from  up  in  the  mountains  of  West  Vir- 
ginia. It  has  the  overshot  wheel  and  will  be  seen  in 
operation  in  picturesque  surroundings.  Meal  will  be 
ground  out  while  you  wait  and  ''Mammies"  will  serve 
hoe  cake,  batter  bread  and  corn  bread  with  syrup 
and  you  can  eat  country  sausages  and  the  real  Smith* 
field  ham. 

Beautiful  Orient  will  take  you  through  the  Land  of 
Egypt.  You  can  ride  the  camel  and  buy  of  the  natives. 
You  will  see  the  quaint  river  craft  of  the  Nile  and 
hear  the  weird  music  of  the  Lotus  Land. 

Old  Jamestown  reproduced  will  appeal  particularly 
to    Virginians,    and   th^vp   one   may   rest   and   also    eat 


—129— 

modern  cooking  on  a  roof  garden  overlooking  the  an- 
cient settlement. 

"101  Ranch,"  a  great  wild  west  show.  The  Miller 
Brothers,  of  Oklahoma,  are  bringing  their  full  outfit  and 
life  on  the  plains  will  be  seen  as  it  is  today  and  as  it 
was  when  the  Indians  were  rough.  The  Indians  who 
will  come  with  the  ranch,  and  the  cowboys  and  cow- 
girls and  the  Mexicans  will  number  five  hundred  and 
there  will  be  a  big  herd  of  buffalo  and  wild  Texan 
steers,  with  bronchos  and  rough  riders  and  many  spe- 
cial features  that  one  will  long  remember. 

Bostock's  Animals.— Bostock  will  have  his  American 
show,  which  has  wintered  in  Eiehmond,  and  his  Paris 
show,  just  brought  over  from  the  Hippodrome,  com- 
bined, and  the  wonderful  performances  of  his  trained 
wild  animals  will  be  seen  at  Pine  Beach  not  far  from 
the   entraiiee   to   the   grounds. 

The  Philippine  Reservation  will  show  life  as  it  is 
among  the  civilized  and  Christianized  Filipinos  and 
also  the  rude  life  in  huts  of  the  less  civilized  natives 
at  work  fashioning  implements  of  war  or  domestic  life. 
Representatives  of  the  War  Department  have  been  at 
work  in  the  islands  getting  the  material  and  people 
for  this  part  of  the  Exposition  and  the  promise  is 
made  that  it  will  offer  better  opportunity  for  studying 
the  Filipinos  than  did  the  exhibit  at  St.  Louis. 

OTHER    ATTRACTIONS    ARE 
.      Temple  of  Mirth. 

Fairy  Land. 

Baby    Incubator. 

Halo 's    Tours. 

Paul  Revere 's  Ride. 

Trixie,  the  Educated  Horse. 

Destruction  of  San  Francisco. 

Shooting  the  Chutes. 


—130— 

Merrimac  and  Monitor  Battle. 
Battle  of  Manassas. 
Unknown    Eegions. 
Eevolving  Parachute. 
Esquimaux  Village. 
Haunted  Castle. 
Empire  of  India. 
Lee  and  his  Generals. 

NAVAL  DISPLAY. 
Never  in   the   history   of   the   world    has   there    been 
such   an   array   of   battleships   as   can    be   seen   on   the 


THE    BATTLESHIP    VIRGINIA. 


historic  waters  of  Hampton  Roads.  For  several  miles 
those  mighty  monsters  are  stretched  out  in  a  straight 
line,  extending  from  Old  Point  to  Newport  News.  Each 
ship  lies  300  yards  apart  and  no  one  can  look  upon 
these  beautiful  cruisers  and  battleships  without  a  feel- 
ing of  pride.     Painted  a  clear  white  with  yellow  tur-' 


—131— 

rets  and  funnels  they  form  a  picture  that  cannot  be 
described.  In  a  line  of  honor  before  the  American 
fleet  under  Admiral  Evans  ride  the  grim  war  dogs  of 
the  foreign  powers,  while  protecting  the  entire  fleet 
an  outer  fringe  of  torpedo  boat  destroyers  may  be  seen. 
Admiral  Harrington,  of  Norfolk,  is  in  charge  of  the 
evolutions.  Some  fifty  war  vessels  are  anchored  in 
Plampton  Eoads;  their  names  and  classes  are  given  as 
follows: 

LIST  OF  SHIPS  ATTENDING  EXPOSITION. 

American. 

FIEST-CLASS   BATTLESHIPS. 

Admiral    Evans '    flagship  is    the    Connecticut. 

Guns.  Guns. 

Connecticut     .  ._ 24  Hlinois  , 18 

Louisiana    24  Kearsarge   22 

Missouri     20  Kentucky 22 

Virginia     24  Ohio    20 

Georgia    24  Indiana    10 

New   Jersey 24  Iowa 18 

Rhode  Island 24  Minnesota    24 

Alabama    18  Maine    20 

SECOND-CLASS  BATTLESHIP. 

Texas,  8  guns. 

CRUISERS. 
St.   Louis,    14   guns.     First-class   protected    cruiser. 
Tennessee,  20  guns.     Armored. 
Washington,  20  guns.     Armored. 
Cleveland,  10  guns.     Third-class  protected. 
Denver,  10  guns.     Third-class  protected. 
Brooklyn,   20   guns.     First-clacs   armored. 


-132- 


MONITORS. 
Miantonomah,  9  guns. 
Canonicus.     Old  type. 

DESTEOYERS. 
Hopkins,  Hull,  MacDonough,  Truxton,  Whipple,  Wor- 
den,  Blakeley,  DeLong,  Stockton,  Strigham,  Wilkes. 

Foreign  Ships. 

ENGLAND. 
Good  Hope,  8   guns.     Armored  cruiser.     Flagship  of 
Eear  Admiral  Sir  George  Neville. 
Argyl,  10  guns.     Armored  cruiser. 
Hampshire,  10  guns.     Armored  cruiser. 
Roxburgh,  10  guns.     Armored  cruiser. 

GERMANY. 
Roon,  14  guns.     Armored  cruiser.     Flagchip  of  Rear 
Admiral  Zimmerman. 

Bremen,  10  guns.     Protected  cruiser. 

FRANCE. 
Victor   Hugo,   20   guns.     Armored   cruiser.     Flagship 
of  Rear  Admiral  Thierey. 

Kleber,  12  guns.     Armored  cruiser. 

JAPAN. 
Tsukuba,    16    guns.     Armored    cruiser.     Flagship    of 
Viee-Admiral  Ijuin. 

Chitose,  12  guns.     Protected  cruiser. 

ITALY. 
Varese,   17  guns.       Armored   cruiser.       Flagship    of 
Rear  Admiral  Duke  D'Abruzzi. 

Etruria,  10  guns.     Protected  cruiser. 


—133- 


BRAZIL. 


Eiachuel,  10  guns.     Third-class  battleship.     Flagship 
of  Rear  Admiral  Duarte  Huet  de  Barcellar. 

CHILI. 


PORTUGAL. 
Don  Carlos,  12  guns.     Protected   cruiser. 

AUSTRIA. 
Sant  George,  11  guns.     Armored  cruiser. 
Aspern,  8  guns.     Protected  cruiser. 

SWEDEN. 
Fylgia,  8  guns.     Cruiser,     Flagship  of  His  Highness 
Prince  Wilhelm, 

ARGENTINE. 
Presidente   Sarmiento,   4   guns.     Training   ship, 
Zenteno,  8  guns.     Cruiser. 

The  battleships  carry  from  six  to  eight  hundred 
men  each,  the  foreign  boats  usually  having  a  larger 
crew  than  those  of  the  American  navy. 

This  magnificent  spectacle  is  a  sight  that  will  live 
long  in  the  memory  of  all  who  are  fortunate  enough 
to  visit  the  Jamestown  Exposition,  It  forms  an  im- 
pressive picture  of  fighting  strength  that  will  long 
be  remembered  in  naval  circles  as  the  greatest 
gathering  of  warships  in  the  history  of  the  American 
nation  and  probably  of  the  world. 


PART    III. 
GENERAL  ITINERARY. 

The  first  important  point  to  remember  is  that  the 
Exposition  site  is  on  the  shore  of  Hampton  Roads, 
thirty  minutes'  ride  by  electric  car  from  the  city  of 
Norfolk,  and  that  Jamestown  is  merely  an  unin- 
habited island  in  the  James  River,  forty  miles  from 
Norfolk. 

For  convenience,  every  visitor  should  also  remem- 
ber that  Norfolk  is  the  most  accessible  point  to  the 
Exposition  and  that  many  of  the  more  historic  places 
of  interest  can  be  reached  from  this  city  in  from  one 
to  three  hours.  If  possible,  tourists  should  endeavor 
to  return  home  by  a  different  route,  and  a  few  sugges- 
tions are  offered  with  this  end  in  view. 

New  York  to  Norfolk.— By  Rail:  Via  Philadelphia 
to  Cape  Charles.  Boat  from  this  point  to  Norfolk. 
By  Boat:  Distance  325  miles.  Leaving  New  York  by 
Old  Dominion  Line,  at  3  p.  m.,  boat  reaches  Norfolk 
at  ten  thirty  the  next  morning.  The  itinerary  for  the 
return  trip  may  of  course  be  reversed.  Return  may 
be  made  by  boat  to  Baltimore  or  Washington  and 
from  there  to  New  York  by  rail. 

Boston  to  Norfolk.— By  Boat:  Direct  to  Norfolk, 
or  boat  or  rail  to  New  York,  and  from  there  by  rail 
via   Philadelphia  as   given   above. 

Pittsburg  and  Western  Points. — From  Pittsburg  by 
the  B.  &  O.  or  from  Harrisburg  by  the  Pennsylvania, 
the  tourist  can  proceed  to  Norfolk  via  Washington, 
Richmond  and  Petersburg.  A  stop-over  should  be 
made  at  each  of  these  cities.  The  return  trip  may 
—134— 


—135— 

be  made  by  boat  to  Capo  Charles  and  by  rail  via 
Philadelphia  and  west  via  Harrisburg;  or  from 
Philadelphia  to  New  York  and  west  over  one 
of  the  northern  roads.  Boat  can  also  be  taken  from 
Norfolk  direct  to  Eichmond  or  Washington.  Boat 
leaves  Norfolk  6  p.  m.,  arrives  at  Washington  early 
the  next  morning. 

Southern  Points. — Steamer  connections  between  Nor- 
folk and  all  important  Atlantic  ports.  Rail  connec- 
tions  via   Raleigh,   Chattanooga  or  Louisville. 

Automobile  Eoute. — The  Annual  Tour  of  the  Ameri- 
can Automobile  Association  will  be  to  the  Jamestown 
Exposition.  Eoute  via  Washington  through  the  Shen- 
andoah Valley,  via  Richmond  and  Fredericksburg  to 
Norfolk.  Distance  250  miles.  Macadam  road  almost 
the  entire  distance.  Antietam,  Harper's  Ferry  and 
Fredericksburg  battlefields  are  included  on  the  trip. 

AUTOMOBILE    ROUTE. 

Washington  to  Hagerstown. 

("Hotels  located  here.) 

Dupont    Circle 1.5         Braddock 's    Springs  49.0 

Montrose    12.6         Braddock 's 

Rockville     15.4  Heights*     49.9 

Gaithersville     20.06       Middletown*     (Bat- 
Clarksburg    29.00  tlefields)     52.8 

Hyattstown    32.9          Boonsborough    60.3 

Frederick*  (Old   Na-  Funkstown    68.2 

tional    Highway..   44.5         Hagerstown*     71. 

Hagerstown- Winchester. 

Mappans    8.4         Sharpsburg     16.1 

Dilghenington     ....    10.4  Antietam    Station..    17.8 

Battlefield     of     An-  Shepard's    Town...    20.4 

^tietam     13.7         Hall    Town 29.0 


-136- 


Charlestown*    (John 
Brown    hanged 
here)     33.0 


Gaylord  (State 

line)    41.7 

Berryville*     46.0 

Winchester*     (Na- 
tional  Cemetery).  57.1 


Winchester  to  Staunton. 


Kernstown     

4.2 

Bartonsville     

6.0 

Stephen  's    City    .  .  . 

7.8 

Middletown     

12.2 

Strasburg*    (2.1 

miles     to     Fisher 

Hill    battlefield). 

18.9 

Tom 's   Brook    

24.6 

Mauretown    

26.0 

Triplet    

29.0 

Woodstock"'     

30.2 

Tavlor   Town    

35.0 

Edinburgh    

36.0 

Hawkins   Town    .  .  . 

40.9 

Staunton 

Brand    

3.0 

Fishersville    

6.5 

Waynesboro    

11.4 

Basic     City*     (sum- 

mer resort)    

12.0 

Spring  (C.  &  0  tun- 

nel)     

15.5 

Afton*  (summer  re- 

sort)      ». 

16.4 

Hillsbury    

?3  9 

Brownsville 

25.4 

Mt.    Jackson    (Con- 
federate monu- 
ment)      42.6 

Newmarket*    (Luray 
cave  14  miles  east)   50.5 

Mauzy    57. S 

Melrose    63.4 

Harrisonburg*    ....   68.4 
Mt.    Crawford*    .  . .    76.1 

Burke    Town    78.9 

Mt.    Sidney     83.9 

Verona     88.3 

Staunton*    (Nat'l 

Cemetery)     94.2 


Mechum    28.2 

Ivy    31.3 

Woods   Station    34.8 

University    of    Vir- 
ginia       37.4 

Charlottesville*     .  ..  38.4 

Hunters'   Hall    42.5 

Shadwell    42.9 

Boyd  's    Tavern    .  .  .    48.6 

Zion ,54.6 

Trices    58.9 


—137— 


Driggsville     59.5 

Moccassin    Gap    ....    67.7 

fehannon    Hill    70.1 

East  Leak 78.0 

Gum   Springs    82.0 

Sandy  Hook    84.0 


Goochland    Court 

House    89.6 

State   Farm    93.3 

Issequena     96.5 

Sabot    100.0 

Manakin     102.9 

Kiehmond*     118.6 

Richmond  to  Norfolk. 


Manchester     1.0 

Petersburg*     21.6 

Estes     29.7 

Disputanta     36.8 

Waverly*    48.5 

Wakefield*     57.9 

Ivor     66.7 

Zuni    75.5 

Windsor    83.3 


Providence    Church.  90.1 

7 
1 
5 
4 
2 
1 


Oceana* 

Oceana* 
Rosemont 


Kings    Fork.  . ,  . 

Suffolk*     ....... 

Stevers     

Morris  Fork   .  .  . 

Drivers     

Sholder    Hill     .. 

Hodges    Ferry    . 

Norfolk*     ..... 
Norfolk  to  Virginia  Beach. 

18.0         Virginia  Beach* 

Virginia  Beach  to  Norfolk. 

3.3         Norfolk    

8.6 

Norfolk  to  Richmond. 


90. 
.  97. 
100. 
105. 
107. 
109. 
112. 
.119. 


21.2 


21.5 


Portsmouth     0.4 

Suffolk*     21.6 

Windsor    36.3 

Zuni    44.1 

Wakefield*     .......   60.7 

Richmond  to  Washington, 

Fredericksburg*  Bristow    . 
(Lee's    Hill    bat- 
tleground)      62.4 

Falmouth     63.5 

Aden 95.1 


70. 


Waverly*    

Disputanta     81 

Petersburg*     95 

Manchester     117 

Richmond*     119 


100 


Manassas    (battle- 
field)     105 

Fairfax   C.    H.*....119 
Washington*     137 


—139— 

Ey  Autoboat,  New  York  to  Norfolk,  by  inland 
waterways.  Distance  352  miles.  Provisions  for  twen- 
ty-four hours.  Necessities  can  be  purchased  along  the 
route.  For  boats  drawing  about  five  feet  of  water. 
Route:  From  Upper  Bay,  New  York  Harbor,  follow- 
ing North  Coast,  Staten  Island,  through  Kill  von  Kull 
and  Arthur  Kull,  Great  Beds  Lighthouse  to  Raritan 
River,  through  the  Delaware  River  and  down  Chesa- 
peake Bay  to  Norfolk, 

Norfolk. — As  this  city  will  probably  be  headquar- 
ters for  thousands  of  tourists,  the  following  informa- 
tion regarding  Norfolk  will  undoubtedly  prove  of 
assistance  to  many. 

The  temperatur(>  ;it  Norfolk  from  IMay  to  Decem- 
ber, 1904,  was  as  follows: 

Max,  Min.          Average. 

May    94  46  67 

June    92  56  75 

July     100  65  81 

August     100  66  82 

September    98  57  7C 

October 88  43  66 

November     78  33  55 

December     70  24  43 

The  rainfall  is  greatest  in  July.  As  a  rule,  hot 
periods  are  short,  followed  by  cooler  weather  and 
refreshing  showers.  The  cost  of  living  has  materially 
increased  since  the  commencement  of  work  on  the 
Exposition  and  tourists  should  if  possible  make  ar- 
rangements for  board  and  lodging  before  leaving 
home.  By  reading  this  little  book  carefully  the  pros- 
pective visitor  will  not  only  be  able  to  visit  the  more 
important  points  of  interest,  but  will  be  saved  much 
needless  work  and  considerable  time  and  money.  For 
detailed  information  and  views  of  the  Exposition  the 


—140— 

tourist  should  secure  a  copy  of  ''Glimpses  of  the 
Jamestown  Exposition  and  Picturesque  Virginia," 
published  by  Laird  &  Lee, 

Short  Side  Trips  from  Norfolk. — Full  descriptions 
with  points  of  interest  to  be  visited  are  given  under 
separate  chapters.  The  Water  Belt  Line  run  boats 
to  Richmond,  Washington,  Baltimore,  Jamestown 
Island,  Yorktown  and  other  interesting  places.  See 
also  chapter  on  Norfolk,  giving  local  points  and 
suburbs. 

The  principal  transportation  lines  from  Norfolk  are 
the  following: 

Southern  Railway. — To  points  in  Virginia,  Tennes- 
see, North  and  South  fJarolina,  Georgia,  Florida,  Ala- 
bama  and   Mississippi. 

Chesapeake  &  Ohio. — Virginia,  West  Virginia,  Ken- 
lucky,  Ohio,   Indiana  and   Illinois. 

Norfolk   &   Southern. — North    Carolina. 

New  York,  Philadelphia  &  Norfolk.— Eastern  Vir- 
ginia,   Pennsylvania,    New   Jersey  and   New  York. 

Old  Dominion  Steamship  Co. — New  York,  Eichmond 
and  James  River  points. 

Merchants'  and  Miners'  Transportation  Co. — Boston 
and   Providence. 

Baltimore  Steam  Packet  Co. — Baltimore. 

Clyde   Steamship   Co. — Philadelphia. 

Chesapeake  Steamship   Co. — Baltimore. 

Norfolk  &  Washington  Steamboat  Co, — Washington 
and  Alexandria. 

Virginia  Navigation  Co. — James  River  points,  in- 
cluding Richmond. 

Weems  Steamboat  Line. — Rappahannock  River 
points. 


—141— 

Foreign  Steamships. — To  Liverpool,  London,  Glas- 
gow, Belfast,  Hamburg,  Rotterdam,  Amsterdam,  Cuba, 
Mexico   and  the   West   Indies. 

LOCAL    ITINERARY    FROM    NORFOLK. 
Annapolis. — Distance    154    miles.      Take    Chesapeake 
Steamship  Co.   boat   at   Norfolk  or  Newport   News. 

Alexandria. — Across  Potomac  Eiver  from  Washing- 
ton, from  which  points  it  is  most  accessible.  Distance 
about   200  miles. 

Berkeley. — Street  car  from  Norfolk,  on  City  Hall 
avenue,  or  take  ferry. 

Baltimore. — 187  miles  from  Norfolk  by  Chesapeake 
Steamship  Co.  's  boat.  Fare  .$3,  Eound  trip  $5. 
Leave  Baltimore  daily  except  Sunday,  6:30  p.  m.  Ar- 
rive at  Norfolk,  7:15  a.  m. 

Cape  Henry. — Eound  trip  25  cents.  Norfolk  &  South- 
ern Eailroad,  Electric  Division.  Cars  leave  opposite 
Monticello  Hotel. 

Cape  Charles. — Boat  leaves  Norfolk,  touching  at  Old 
Point  Comfort.     About  three  hours'  ride. 

Dismal  Swamp. — By  canal  boat  or  motor  boat 
through  Albemarle  and  Dismal  Swamp  Canal  from 
Portsmouth.     Eound  trip,  one  day  by  motor  boat. 

Exposition. — Norfolk  &  Atlantic  Terminal  Electric 
cars,  opposite  Monticello  Hotel,  or  Norfolk  &  Ports- 
mouth Traction  Co.  cars  foot  of  Granby  and  Main 
street,  via  Ocean  View,  or  boat  foot  of  Commerce 
street. 

Fortress  Monroe. — See  Old  Point  Comfort. 
Fredericksburg. — This    city   can    be   reached    on    the 
road   to   Washington. 

Hampton. — Take  Norfolk  &  Portsmouth  Ti  action 
Co.  electric  car  to  Pine  Beach,  and  from  there  to 
Hampton  by  boat,  or  take  boat  from  Norfolk  to  New- 
port News  and  electric  ear  or  railroad  to  Hampton. 


—142— 

Jamestown  Island. — Take  Tidewater  Navigation 
Co.  's  boats  at  Norfolk  or  Newport  News.  Trip  takes 
eight  hours. 

Newport  News. — Take  boat  at  Norfolk,  or  electric 
car  to  Pine  Beach  and  boat  from  there. 

Ocean  View. — Take  electric  car,  foot  of  Main  street. 

Old  Point  Comfort.— Take  boat  from  Norfolk,  foot 
of  Commerce  street,  or  electric  car  or  railroad  from 
Newport  News  or  Hampton,  or  electric  car  to  Wil- 
loughby  Spit  and  boat  from  there.    Boat  fare  15  cents. 

Portsmouth. — Take  ferry  foot  of  Commercial  place, 
Norfolk. 

Petersburg. — Take  Norfolk  &  Western  Eailroad 
from  Norfolk  (a  ride  of  an  hour  and  forty-five  min- 
utes), or  take   electric  car  from  Kichmond. 

Richmond. — Take  Norfolk  &  Western  Eailroad,  a 
ride  of  2i/i  hours  from  Norfolk,  or  boat  to  Newport 
News  and  C,  &  0.  train  from  there,  or  take  electric 
car  from  Petersburg.  By  water:  Take  Old  Dominion 
Line  from  Norfolk,  Newport  News  or  Old  Point.  Fare 
$2.50;  round  trip  $4.50,  including  stateroom.  Day  trip 
fare  $1.50;  round  trip  $2.50.  Leave  Norfolk  7  a.  m. 
Arrive  Eichmond  5  p.  ni. 

Virginia  Beach. — Take  Norfolk  &  Southern  electric 
car,   opposite   Monticello  Hotel.     Eouhd  trip  25  cents. 

Washington. — Take  Norfolk  &  Western  Eailroad 
from  Norfolk,  via  Petersburg,  Eichmond  and  Fred- 
ericksburg, or  Norfolk  &  Washington  Steamboat  Co. 's 
boat  from  Norfolk.  It  takes  about  six  hours  to  cover 
the  trip  by  rail.  Boat  leaves  Norfolk  6  p.  m.  Arrives 
early  next  morning.     Distance  by  water  200  miles. 

Williamsburg. — Take  boat  from  Norfolk  to  Newport 
News  and  C.  &  O.  Eailroad  from  there. 

Yorktown. — Take  boat  from  Norfolk  or  Newport 
News,  or  overland  from  Williamsburg  by  stage. 


Cross-Index 


PAGF, 

Alexandria 107 

Arnold,  Benedict 31 

Audrey's   House  78 

Bacon.  Nathaniel J9 

Berkeley,  Gov 51 

B  irron's  Grave,  Commodore,  3d 

Bassett  Hall,  Williamsburg. .  79 

Battlefields 105 

Chaffin's  Bluff 105 

Chester 105 

Cold  Harbor 105 

Crater 95 

Darby  town 95 

Drewey's  Bluff 105 

Dutch  Gap 105 

Ellerson's  Mill 105 

Fair  Oaks 106 

Ft.  Harrison 105 

Ft.  Magruder, Williamsburg  81 

Gaines'  Mill 106 

Mechanicsville 106 

Petersburg 98 

Savage  Station 106 

Seven  Pines 106 

Yellow  Tavern lOi) 

RIair,  D.D.,  James,  Rev 50 

Blair  House 79 

Ulanford  Church,  Petersburg,  92 
Bonaparte,  Prince   Louis,  at 

Norfolk 18 

Brafferton,  Williamsburg....  70 
BrutonChu.'ch, Williamsburg- 58 

Communion  Services 60 

Pocahontas  Font 60 

Bell 00 

Chancel  Graves 64 

Memorials 65 

Memorial  Pews 65 

Churchyard 68 

Parish  Register 59 

Burgesses,  House  of 

Speaker's  Chair 102 

Stove 103 

Cape  Charles 17 

Cape  Henry 17 

Carter's  Grove. 82 

Cary,  Mary  (Mrs.  Ed.  Ambler)  53 

Colonial  Churches—  110 

Abingdon.  Gloucester  Co..  113 

^quia.  Stafford  Co Ill 

Blanford,  Petersburg     92 

Bruton,  Williamsburg 58 

Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  107 

"            "      Lancaster  Co  112 

Christ  Church,  Eastville.  . .  112 


PAGE 

Fork  Church,  Hanover  Co.  113 

Hungar's,  Northampton  Co.  112 

Jamestown  ...  48 

Old  Falls,  Fairfax  Co 109 

Pohick,  Mt.  Vernon -Ill 

St.  John's,  Hampton 39 

St.  John's,  Richmond 99 

St.  Luke's,  Smithfield 89 

St.  Paul's,  Norfolk 24 

King  George  Co.  113 

St.  Peter's,  New  Kent  Co. .  112 

Trinity,   Portsmouth 34 

Yorktown 88 

Vauter's,  Essex  Co 113 

Colonial  Clergymen  — 

Blair,  Jas.  (Commissary). . .  50 

Buck,  Richard   49 

Clough,  John 51 

Hunt,   Robert 12 

Mease,  Wm 39 

Colonial  Governors  — 

Berkeley 51 

Botetourt 55-70 

Delaware 38-49 

Dinwiddle 55 

Dunraore 55 

Drysdale 55 

Fauquier 55 

Gooch 55 

Harvey 57 

Nicholson 57 

Yeardley 49 

Coloriial  Inn,  Williamsburg. .  82 

Confederate  Capitol 102 

Cornwallis' Cave,  Yorktown. .  87 

Cornwallis  at  Portsmouth. ...  31 

Court  House,  Williamsburg  .  78 

Craney  Island 18 

Crater,  Petersburg 96 

Davis',  Jefferson,  Prison 45 

Davis  ,  Jefferson,  Office 109 

Debtors'  Prison 74 

Dismal   Swamp 27 

Dunmore's  Cave,  W'msburg,  74 
Explorers  — 

Amadas  11 

Barlowe 11 

Drake 11 

Gosnold 11 

Nt^wport.    ...  11 

Raleigh,  Sir  Walter 11 

Exposition 114 

Firefly,To  the,  by Thos.  Moore  79 

First  Legislative  Assembly. . .  46 

Couple  Married  in  Virginia,  49 


PAGE 

First  Theater  in  U.  S 80 

Child  Born  in  Virginia 39 

Masonic  Temple  in  U.  S, . .  81 

Custom  House  in  U.  S 88 

Ft.  Magruder,  Williamsburg.  81 

Fortress  Monroe 44 

George  III 108 

Governor's  Palace,  W'sburg,  73 

Hampton 38 

Hampton  Normal  and  Agri- 
cultural Institute  42 

Hampton  Roads 17 

Hancock's  Chair,  Norfolk..  .  23 

Henry,  Patrick 72-99 

Hollywood,  Richmond 104 

Itinerary 134-9-140 

Jamestown 11-47 

Church    48 

Ruins 52 

State  House 51 

Jones,  Rev.  Servant 68 

Kecoughtan 38 

Lake  of  the  Dismal  Swamp. .  27 

Lenore   (by  Poe) 28 

Lee's  Home,  Robt.  E 103 

Lib'->y  P'-ison,  Richmond 104 

Monitoi  and  Mer.imac 19 

Moore,  Thos 26 

House,  Norfolk 

Moore  House,  Yorktown 86 

Nelson  House,  Yorktown 87 

Newport  News     33 

Norfo'^. 20-138 

Mace 23 

St.  Paul's   24 

Hancock's  Chair 26 

Moore,  Thos.,  in 26 

Poe,  Edgar  Allen,  in 28 

Confederate  Monument. ...  2^ 

Academy 23 

Norfolk  Navy  Yard 31 

Old  Point  Comfort 44 

Peace  Monument,  Pet'sburg,  97 

Petersburg  92 

Pocahontas    13 

Poe,  Edgar  Allen 28 

Portsmouth 31 

Barron's  Grave 35 

Confederate  Monument. ...  35 

Naval  Hospital   33 

Navy  Yards 31 

Trinity  Church 34 

Pembroke   Farm 40 

Powder  Horn,  'Williamsburg,  71 

Powhatan 13 

Presidents  United  States  — 

Washington 58 

Jetf  ersoB 58 

Madison 58 


PACK 

Monroe 58 

Tyler 58 

Raleigh  Tavern,  W'msburg.  .  81 

Randolph  Peyton 80 

House  of,  Williamsburg.  . . 

Randolph,  Sir  John 55 

Richmond 99 

Rip  Raps 46 

Rolfe,  John 14 

Shipyards,  Newport  News ...  36 

Six  Chimney  Lot,  W'msburg,  81 

Smith,  Capt,  John 12 

Smithfield 89 

Speaker's    Chair,    House    of 

Burgesses,  Richmond 102 

St.  Paul's,  Norfolk 24 

Steve,  House  of  Burgesses..  102 

Swan  Tavern,  Yorktown 88 

Symns-Eaton     Free    School, 

Hampton 43 

Tazewell  Hall, Williamsburg,  80 

Washington,  Geo 52-58-72 

Werowocomoco 88 

William  and  Mary  College. . .  69 

Williamsburg 55 

Audrey's  House 78 

Bassett  House . . .' 79 

Blair  House 79 

Bruton  Church 58 

"        Churchyard OS 

Court  House 73 

Debtors' Prison 79 

Dunmore's  Cave 74 

First  Theater     80 

"      Masonic  Temple 81 

Fort  Magruder 81 

Governor's  Palace 73 

House  of  Burgesses 71 

Powder  Horn   74 

Raleigh  Tavern 81 

Randolph  House 80 

Six  Chimney  Lot 81 

Tazewell  Hall 80 

William  and  Mary  College,  69 

Wythe  House 76 

Willoughby  Spit 17 

Wythe  House,  vVilliamsburg,  76 

Yorktown 83 

Battleground 85 

Church 88 

Cornwailis  Cave 87 

Custom  House 88 

House  where   Capitulation 

was  signed 86 

Nelson  House 87 

Site  of  Surrender   86 

Swan  Tavern 88 

Sovereigns      of      Colonial 

Period 108 


GLIMPSES 


OF  THE 


JAMESTOWN  EXPOSITION 


AND 


PICTURESQUE  VIRGINIA 


0 


RIGINAL  Colorgraphs 
graphically  reproduced, 
depicting  the  most  unique 
Exposition  ever  held  on 
American  soil.  Magnificent 
Palaces,  Quaint  State  and  Spe- 
cial Buildings,  Curious  Outdoor 
Displays,  Realistic  Scenes  on 
the  War  Path,  Gorgeous  Mil- 
itary and  Naval  Evolutions 
Battleships,  Cruisers,  Torpedo  Boat  Destroyers,  etc.  A  won- 
derful combination  of  Science,  Beauty  and  Art. 

A  SCENIC  PANORAMA  OF  THE  OLD  DOMINION 

Including  Jamestown,  Williamsburg:,  Yorktown,  Smithfield, 
Newport  News,  Hampton,  Old  Point  Comfort,  Fortress  Monroe, 
Norfolk,  Portsmouth,  Cape  Henry,  Virginia  Beach,  Hampton 
Roads,  Petersburg,  Richmond,  Arlington,  The  Fleet,  Typical 
Southern    Scenes,    and   the   Famous    Battlefields    of    Virginia. 

215    BEAUTIFUL    VIEWS 

Including    32    ColOrgraphS   with  full   description  and   history 
A    mine    of    historical     information    that    will    prove    a    con- 
stant source  of   reference.     An  ideal  supplementary  com- 
panion   to    Laird    &    Lee's    Guide    to    Historic 
Virginia   and  tlie  Jamestowa   Centeaaial. 

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the  world,  postpaid,  on  receipt  of  price,  by 

LAIRD  &  LEE,  Publishers,  '^l'^l%t'"-  CHICAGO 


LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS 


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