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THE  LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 


CAl'T.    FELL 


CAI'T.    PHILLIPS  COL.   O  SULLIVAN 


LIEUT.    STEKL 


GEN.    HARROW  GEN.    SIR   A.    GASELEE,  K.C.B. 


COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF  AND  STAFF   OF  THE    BRITISH   FORCES 
IN   NORTH  CHINA 


THE 

LAND  OF  THE  BOXERS 


INDIAN   ARMY 


WITH    15   ILLUSTRATIONS  AND  A  PLAN 


LONGMANS,    GREEN,    AND    CO. 

39  PATERNOSTER  ROW,    LONDON 

NEW  YORK  AND  BOMBAY 

1903 

All  rights  reserved 


TO 

THE   OFFICERS 

OF    THE 

AMERICAN   AND   BRITISH 

NAVAL   AND   MILITARY   FORCES 

IN   CHINA 


PREFACE 

WRITTEN  many  thousand  miles  from  the 
ever  -  troubled  land  of  China,  with  no 
opportunity  for  reference,  this  book  doubtless 
contains  many  errors,  for  which  the  reader's  in- 
dulgence is  asked.  The  criticisms  of  the  various 
armies  are  not  the  result  of  my  own  unaided 
impressions,  but  a  rtsumd  of  the  opinions  of  the 
many  officers  of  the  different  contingents  with 
whom  I  conversed  on  the  subject. 

My  thanks  are  due  to  Sir  Richard  Harrison,  K.C.B., 
Inspector -General  of  Fortifications,  who  served 
with  the  Allied  Army  which  captured  Pekin  in 
1860,  for  his  courtesy  in  permitting  me  to  use 
some  of  the  excellent  photographs  taken  by  the 
Photo  Section,  Royal  Engineers. 

THE   AUTHOR 
LONDON,  1903 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER   I 

FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI  TO  TIENTSIN 

Our  transport — An  Irish  padre" — Wei-hai-wei  harbour  by  night — 
The  island  by  day — The  mainland — On  to  Taku — Taku  at  last — 
The  allied  fleet— The  famous  forts— The  Peiho  River— The  Allies 
at  Tong-ku — The  British  at  Hsin-ho — The  train  to  Tientsin — A 
motley  crowd  of  passengers — The  country  en  route — A  historic 
railway  station  ....  pages  1-16 


CHAPTER    II 
TIENTSIN 

The  foreign  settlement — The  Chinese  city — The  linguists  in  the 
Anglo-Indian  army — The  Tientsin  Club — A  polyglot  crowd  round 
the  bar — The  English  Concession — The  famous  Gordon  Hall — 
The  brawls  in  Taku  Road — Dissensions  among  the  Allied  troops 
— The  attack  on  the  Royal  Welch  Fusiliers'  patrol — The  siege  of 
Tientsin — Scene  of  the  fighting — Accuracy  of  the  Chinese  shell- 
fire — Soldier  life  in  the  streets  of  Tientsin — Tommy  Atkins — 
Peace  and  War — The  revenge  of  Christianity — The  "  railway 
siding  incident "  ....  pages  17-33 


CHAPTER    III 
THE  ALLIED  ARMIES  IN  CHINA 

The  German  expeditionary  force — Out-of-date  tactics — Failure  of 
their  transport — Their  campaigning  dress — The  German  officer 
—  The  French  troops — Improved  training  and  organisation  of 
the  French  army — The  Russians  —  Endurance  and  bravery  of 
the  Russian  soldier — Defective  training — The  Japanese  army — 


CONTENTS 

Its  transport  system  in  China — Splendid  infantry — The  courage 
of  the  Japanese — Excellence  of  their  Intelligence  Department 
— Its  working — The  East  sown  with  their  agents — The  discipline 
of  the  Japanese  soldiers — Their  bravery  in  action — Moderation 
in  victory — Friendship  for  our  sepoys — The  American  troops — 
Continental  criticism  —  The  American  army  of  the  future  — 
Gallantry  of  the  Americans  at  the  capture  of  Tientsin — General 
Dorward's  praise — Friendship  between  the  American  and  British 
troops — Discomfiture  of  an  English  subaltern — The  Italians — 
Holland's  imposing  contingent — The  Indian  army — A  revelation 
to  the  world  —  Indian  troops  acting  alone — Fighting  qualities 
of  the  various  races — The  British  officers  of  the  Indian  army 
— Organisation  of  an  Indian  regiment — Indian  cavalry — Loyalty 
of  the  sepoy  .....  pages  34-63 


CHAPTER    IV 
PEKIN 

To  the  capital — The  railway  journey — Von  Waldersee's  introduction 
to  our  Royal  Horse  Artillery — The  Temple  of  Heaven — The 
Temples  of  the  Sun  and  Moon — The  Centre  of  the  Universe — 
The  Chien  M£n  Gate— Legation  Street— The  H&tel  du  Nord— 
Description  of  Pekin — The  famous  walls — The  Tartar  City — The 
Imperial  City— The  Forbidden  City— Coal  Hill— The  Ming  Pagoda 
— The  streets  of  Pekin — A  visit  to  the  Legations — The  siege — 
Pekin  mud — A  wet  day — A  princely  palace — Chong  Wong  Foo — 
A  visit  to  the  Forbidden  City — The  Imperial  eunuchs — Seated  on 
the  Emperor's  throne — His  Majesty's  harem — A  quaint  notice  — 
A  giant  bronze — The  Imperial  apartments — The  Emperor's  bed- 
room— The  Empress-Dowager's  pavilion  —  Musical-boxes  and 
toys — Her  Majesty's  bed — The  Imperial  Garden — The  view  from 
Coal  Hill  .....  pages  64-94 


CHAPTER   V 

RAMBLES   IN  PEKIN 

The  Peitan — Defence  of  the  Cathedral — A  prelate  of  the  Church 
militant — A  gallant  defence — Aspect  of  Pekin  after  the  restoration 
of  order — A  stroll  down  Ha-ta-man  Street — Street  scenes — 
Peddlers — Jugglers — Peep-shows  and  a  shock — A  dancing  bear — 
Shoeing  a  pony — The  sorrows  of  a  Pekin  shopkeeper — Silk  and 
fan  shops — A  pottery  store — A  market-place — A  chaffering  crowd 
— Beggars — The  Legation  wall — Visit  to  the  Great  Lama  Temple 


CONTENTS  xi 

— The  outer  gate — The  first  court — Lama  priests — Rapacious 
beggars — The  central  temple — Colossal  statue  of  Buddha — The 
lesser  temples — Improper  gods — Photographing1  the  priests — 
The  Temple  of  Confucius — A  bare  interior — A  visit  to  a  Pekin 
cloisonnd  factory — Method  of  manufacture — Deft  artists — Firing 
— The  enamel — The  humiliation  of  China — The  standards  of  the 
victors  .....  pages  95-  n  4 


CHAPTER  VI 
THE  SUMMER  PALACE 

Our  ponies — The  ride  through  the  streets — Evil-smelling  lanes — 
The  walls — The  shattered  gate-towers — The  Japanese  guard — 
The  taking  of  the  City  and  relief  of  the  Legations — The  paved 
high-road — A  fertile  country — The  villages — A  ruined  temple — 
Bengal  Lancers  and  Mounted  Infantrymen — A  ride  through  the 
fields — Distant  view  of  the  palace — The  ornamental  gate — The 
entrance — The  sepoy  guard — The  outer  courtyard — Bronzes  on 
the  temple  verandah — A  network  of  courts — Royal  Artillery 
mess  in  the  pavilion  that  had  served  as  the  Emperor's  prison — 
The  shaded  courtyard — Officers'  quarters  looking  out  on  the  lake 
— A  marble-walled  lake — Lotos — Boats — A  walk  round  the  lake 
— The  covered  terrace — The  Bersagliere  guard — Pretty  summer- 
houses — The  Empress's  temples — The  marble  junk — A  marble 
bridge — Lunch  in  a  monarch's  prison — The  hill  over  the  lake — 
A  lovely  view — The  Hall  of  Ten  Thousand  Ages — Vandalism — 
Shattered  Buddhas — The  Bronze  Pagoda — The  island — The 
distant  hills — Summer  quarters  of  the  British  Legation — The 
ride  back — Tropical  rain — Flooded  streets — A  swim  pages  115-132 


CHAPTER   VII 
A  TRIP  TO  SHANHAIKWAN 

A  long  journey — The  junction  at  Tong-ku — Mud  flats — A  fertile 
country — Walled  villages — Mud  forts — Defended  stations — The 
canal — Tong-shan — The  refreshment  room — The  coal  mines — 
Hills — Roving  brigands — Shanhaikwan — Stranded  at  the  station 
— Borrowing  a  bed — Hunting  for  a  meal — A  Continental  caf'6 — 
Spatch-cocks — A  woman  without  pride — A  mosquito  concert  with 
refreshments — Rigging  up  a  net — A  surprise  for  the  British  and 
Russian  station  officers — A  midnight  introduction — An  admiring- 
Russian —  Kind  hospitality — Good  Samaritans — The  Gurkha 
mess — Fording  a  stream — A  Russian  cart — The  Great  Wall  of 


xii  CONTENTS 

China — Snipe — The  forts — The  old  camp — The  walls  of  the  city 
— On  the  cliffs  by  the  sea — The  arrival  of  the  Japanese  fleet — A 
shock  for  a  Russian  dinner-party — The  sea  frozen  in  winter — A 
cricket  match — Shooting-  snipe  on  the  cricket  pitch — Dining  with 
my  Russian  friends — Vodki — Mixed  drinks — The  wily  Russian 
and  the  Newchwang  railway — Tea  4  la  Russe — Heavy  rain — The 
line  flooded — Cossacks  on  a  raft — Cut  off  from  everywhere — An 
orderly  of  the  3rd  Bombay  Cavalry — A  sowar's  opinion  of  the 
Russian  invasion  of  India — Collapsed  houses  —  Friendly  scene 
between  Japanese  soldiers  and  our  sepoys — The  floods  subside 
— The  return — Smuggling-  arms — Lieutenant  Stirling,  D.s.o. 

pages  133-168 


CHAPTER  VIII 

OUR  STRONGHOLD   IN   THE   FAR  EAST 
HONG   KONG  AND  THE   KOWLOON   HINTERLAND 

Importance  of  Hong  Kong-  as  a  naval  and  military  base — An  object- 
lesson  of  Empire — Its  marvellous  rise — The  constant  menace  of 
famine — Cause  of  Hong  Kongo's  prosperity — Its  geographical 
position — An  archipelago — Approaching  Hong  Kong-  by  sea — 
First  view  of  Victoria — A  crowded  harbour — The  mainland — 
The  Kowloon  Peninsula — The  city  of  Victoria — Queen's  Road — 
Shops,  hotels,  banks — The  City  Hall — The  palatial  club — The 
Brigade  Parade  Ground — The  base  Commissariat  Officer,  Major 
Williams,  l.s.c. — The  Naval  Dockyard — Sir  Francis  Powell, 
K.C.M.G. —  Barracks  and  Arsenal — The  Happy  Valley — A  memento 
mori — The  polo  ground — Lyeemoon  Pass — The  southern  side  of 
the  Island — The  Peak — The  cable  tramway — View  from  the  Peak 
— The  residential  quarter — The  floating  population  of  Hong 
Kong- — The  sampans — Their  dangers  in  the  past — The  rising- 
suburb  of  Kowloon — The  Hong  Kong  regiment — The  docks — 
The  Chinese  city  of  Kowloon — Street  scenes  in  Hong  Kong — 
Social  amusements  of  the  colony — Society  in  Hong  Kong  and 
Kowloon — The  Kowloon  Peninsula — Danger  to  Hong  Kong 
averted  by  its  possession — Character  of  the  peninsula — The 
frontier — The  Chinese  territory  beyond  it — The  taking  over  of 
the  Hinterland  in  1898 — A  small  campaign — The  chances  of  a 
land  invasion  of  Hong  Kong — The  garrison  of  Hong  Kong — 
Advisability  of  mounted  infantry  .  .  pages  169-201 


CONTENTS  xiii 


CHAPTER   IX 
ON  COLUMN   IN  SOUTHERN  CHINA 

A  camp  on  the  British  frontier — Fears  of  outbreaks  in  Canton — The 
Black  Flags — Alarm  in  Hong  Kong — General  Gaselee's  troops 
diverted  to  Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai — His  authority  among  the 
Allies  weakened  in  consequence — Wild  rumours  in  Canton — The 
reform  party  in  the  south — The  Triads — Rebellion  in  the  Kwang- 
tung  province — Admiral  Ho — Troops  despatched  from  Hong 
Kong  to  guard  the  frontier — The  Frontier  Field  Force — Its 
composition — The  departure  of  the  column — A  picturesque 
voyage — An  Imperial  Chinese  Customs  gunboat — The  Samchun 
River — War  junks — Our  first  camp — Admiral  Ho's  army — Con- 
sternation among  the  Chinese  troops — They  march  away — No 
official  maps  of  the  Hinterland — A  Customs  station — Britishers 
in  danger — Chinese-made  modern  guns — A  false  alarm — A  phan- 
tom battle — Chinese  fireworks — A  smart  trick  at  the  storming  of 
the  Peiyang  Arsenal — A  visit  to  Samchun — A  game  of  bluff — 
Taking  tea  with  a  mandarin — Round  the  town — Cockroaches  as 
a  luxury — A  Yankee  Chinaman — A  grateful  escort — Terrified 
Chinese  soldiers — An  official  visit  to  a  mandarin — Southern 
Chinese  soldiers — The  Imperial  troops  in  the  north — A  real  alarm 
— A  night  raid — A  disappointment  .  .  pages  202-230 


CHAPTER   X 
IN  THE  PORTUGUESE  COLONY  OF  MACAO 

Early  history  of  Macao — Its  decay — A  source  of  danger  to  Hong 
Kong — Fleet  of  the  Hong  Kong,  Canton,  and  Macao  Steamboat 
Company  —  The  Heungshan  and  its  passengers  —  Guarding 
against  piracy — Macao  from  the  sea — An  awkward  Chinaman — 
The  Boa  Vista  Hotel — View  over  the  city — The  Praia  Grande — 
Around  the  peninsula — In  the  Public  Gardens — Administration  of 
Macao — A  night  alarm — A  mutinous  regiment — Portuguese  and 
Macaese  society — A  visit  to  the  Governor — An  adventure  with 
the  police — An  arrest — Insolent  treatment  of  British  subjects — 
Redress — An  arrest  in  Japan — Chinese  gambling-houses — Fan- 
tan — The  sights  of  Macao  .  .  .  pages  231-255 


xiv  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  XI 
A  GLIMPSE  OF  CANTON 

Hostility  of  Canton  to  foreigners — The  scare  in  1900 — History  of 
Canton's  relations  with  the  outer  world — Its  capture  and  occupa- 
tion by  the  English  and  French — The  foreign  settlement — The 
river  journey  from  Hong  Kong  to  Canton — River  scenes  at 
Canton — A  floating  city — Description  of  Canton — The  streets — 
A  visit  to  the  shops — Feather  workers — Ivory  carvers — Embroi- 
dery shops — Temple  of  the  Five  Hundred  Genii — Marco  Polo 
among  the  gods — The  prison — The  cangue — Insolent  prisoners — 
Chinese  punishments — Death  of  a  Thousand  Cuts — The  Temple 
of  Horrors — The  Examination  Hall — Shameen — The  English  and 
French  concessions — Foreign  gunboats — The  trade  of  Canton — 
French  designs — Energy  of  their  consuls — Our  weak  forbearance 
— An  attack  on  Canton  by  river  and  by  land  .  pages  256-278 

CHAPTER  XII 
CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  AND   FUTURE 

At  England's  mercy  in  the  past — An  easy  and  tempting  prize — 
Patriotism  unknown — The  Chinaman's  wonderful  love  of  his 
family — Causes  of  his  want  of  patriotism — His  indifference  as  to 
his  rulers — The  Chinese  abroad — Hatred  of  foreigners  in  China 
— Its  causes — This  hatred  common  to  all  classes — A  substitute 
for  the  non-existent  patriotism — Can  we  blame  the  Chinese? — 
A  comparison — If  England  were  like  China — Our  country  in- 
vaded by  Chinese,  Coreans,  Siamese,  and  Kamschatkans — The 
missionaries  in  China — The  gospel  of  love  becomes  the  doctrine 
of  revenge — The  China  of  the  present — Tyranny  and  corruption 
— What  the  future  may  prove — Japan's  example — Japan  in  the 
past  and  now — What  she  is  China  may  become — Intelligence  of 
the  Chinese — Their  success  in  other  countries — The  Chinaman 
as  a  soldier — Splendid  material — Examples:  the  Boxers;  the 
Regulars  who  attacked  Seymour  and  Tientsin  ;  the  military 
students  at  Tientsin  ;  the  behaviour  of  our  Chinese  Regiment 
under  fire — Heavy  losses  among-  the  Allies  in  the  beginning  of 
the  campaign — Comparison  of  the  Egyptian  fellaheen — The 
Chinese  army  of  the  future — A  reformed  Empire  pages  279-298 

INDEX    .  .  .  .  .  .     pages  299-307 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF  AND  STAFF  OF  THE   BRITISH   FORCES 

IN   NORTH   CHINA  ....      Frontispiece 

PLAN  OF  PEKIN     .                     .                     .                     .                     .                .           .  Xvi 

EUROPEAN  CONCESSIONS,   TIENTSIN,  AND  THE  PEIHO  RIVER      .           .  17 

EXECUTION  OF  A  BOXER  BY  THE   FRENCH         .                    .  28 

PUBLIC     GARDENS    AND     GORDON     HALL     IN     THE    VICTORIA    ROAD, 

ENGLISH  CONCESSION   .                    .                    .                    ...  28 

FRENCH    COLONIAL    INFANTRY    MARCHING    THROUGH    THE    FRENCH 

CONCESSION,  TIENTSIN                     .                    .                    ...  38 

GERMAN      OFFICERS      WELCOMING      FIELD  -  MARSHAL      COUNT      VON 

WALDERSEE    AT    THE    RAILWAY    STATION,    TIENTSIN             .           .  38 

UNITED  STATES  CAVALRYMAN               .                    .                    .  51 

GERMAN   AND   INDIAN   SOLDIERS           .                     .                     ...  56 

FIELD-MARSHAL    COUNT  VON  WALDERSEE    REVIEWING    THE    ALLIED 

TROOPS   IN  PEKIN           .                    .                    .                    ...  68 

A  STREET   IN  THE  CHINESE   CITY,    PEKIN            .                     .                .           .  72 

FRONT  FACE  OF  THE  DEFENCES  OF  THE  LEGATIONS       .  78 

GROUNDS  OF  THE  BRITISH  LEGATION,    PEKIN                       .                          .  IO7 

A  STREET  IN  THE  TARTAR  CITY,   PEKIN,  AFTER  HEAVY  RAIN     .           .  127 

THE  MARBLE  JUNK                  .                     .                     .                     ...  127 

THE  CANGUE          .                    .                    .                    .                    ...  269 


11 


Tartar   City 


11 


aio 


.SiBl 


^!           ~1H4         V/3                            ^U 

\ 

i 

Chin 

e  s 

e 

City 

,3  SI'2                                § 

15 

14 


an     of    P  e  k  i 


Gates. 


1.  Chien  Men  Gate.  2.  Tung-Chi  Gate,  attacked  by  the  Japanese.  8.  Ha-ta- 
man  Gate.  4.  The  Water-gate,  a  tunnel  in  the  Wall  between  the  Tartar  and 
Chinese  cities.  By  this  the  Indian  troops  entered  the  Legations.  5,  5.  Nullah 
draining  the  Tartar  City.  6.  The  English  Legation.  7.  The  Japanese  Lega- 
tion. 8.  The  Russian  Legation.  9.  The  American  Legation.  10.  The  Hotel 
duNord.  11, 11, 11.  Ha-ta-man  Street.  12.  The  Temple  of  Heaven.  13.  Tem- 
porary railway  station.  14.  Railway  line  passing  through  a  breach  in  the  Wall 
15.  The  Temple  of  Agriculture,  occupied  by  the  Americans. 


CHAPTER    I 
FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO  TIENTSIN 

OUR  transport  steamed  over  a  glassy  sea  along 
the  bold  and  rugged  coast  of  Shan-tung  in 
Northern  China.  Ahead  of  us,  a  confused  jumble 
of  hills  dark  against  the  setting  sun,  lay  Wei-hai- 
wei.*  A  German  steamer  homeward  bound  from 
Chifu  dipped  her  flag  to  the  blue  ensign  with 
crossed  swords  flying  at  our  peak.  Close  inshore 
an  occasional  junk,  with  weird  outlines  and  quaint 
sail,  lay  becalmed.  On  our  deck,  lying  in  easy- 
chairs,  were  a  dozen  officers  of  various  branches 
of  the  Service,  all  bound  for  Pekin.  Some  were 
fresh  from  South  African  battlefields,  others  were 
there  whose  soldiering  had  been  done  in  India  or 
in  Burma. 

Among    our    number    was    a    well-known    and 
popular  military  chaplain,  the  Reverend  Mr.  Hardy, 

*  Pronounced  "  Way  high  way." 

B 


2  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

author  of  the  famous  How  to  be  Happy  though 
Married.  A  living  testimony  to  the  success  of 
his  own  theory,  he  was  the  most  genial  and  delight- 
ful shipmate  I  have  ever  met.  Dowered  with  all 
an  Irishman's  wit  and  humour,  he  had  been  the 
life  and  soul  of  everyone  on  board.  He  had 
recently  arrived  in  Hong  Kong  from  Europe, 
having  travelled  across  America,  where  his  studied 
carelessness  of  dress  and  wild,  untrimmed  beard 
had  been  a  constant  source  of  wonderment  to  the 
smart  citizens  of  the  United  States.  "In  Salt 
Lake  City,"  he  told  us,  "a  stranger  addressed  me 
one  day  in  my  hotel.  '  Excuse  me,  sir,'  he  said, 
'  would  you  oblige  me  and  my  friends  at  this  table 
by  deciding  a  small  bet  we  have  made  ? '  'I  fear 
I  shall  be  of  little  use,'  replied  Mr.  Hardy ;  '  I 
have  only  just  reached  your  city.'  '  Not  at  all. 
The  bet  is  about  yourself.  We  can't  make  out 
which  of  three  things  you  are — a  Mormon  elder, 
a  Boer  General,  or  a  Scotchman.'  And,  faith," 
added  our  Irish  padrt  when  he  told  us  the  tale, 
"  I  think  I  felt  most  insulted  at  their  last  guess." 

The  sun  went  down  slowly  behind  a  chain  of 
rugged  hills.  But  soon  before  us,  set  in  a  silver 
sea,  the  island  of  Wei-hai-wei  rose  dark  and 
sombre  under  a  glorious  moon.  In  the  glistening 
water  lay  the  dim  shapes  of  several  warships,  their 
black  hulls  pierced  with  gleaming  portholes.  On 
their  decks,  bright  with  electric  lamps,  bands  were 
playing,  their  strains  swelling  louder  and  louder  as 


FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO   TIENTSIN         3 

we  drew  near.  Far  off  the  hills  of  the  mainland 
stood  out  sharply  against  the  sky,  with  here  and 
there  below  a  twinkling  light  from  the  villages  or 
the  barracks  of  the  Chinese  Regiment. 

As  our  steamer  rounded  a  long,  low  point,  on 
which  lay  a  deserted  fort,  every  line  distinct  in  the 
brilliant  moonlight,  the  town  came  into  view.  The 
houses  nestled  down  close  to  the  water's  edge, 
while  above  them  the  island  rose  in  gentle  slope  to 
a  conical  peak.  Our  anchor  plunged  sullenly  into 
the  sea,  and  we  lay  at  rest  in  England's  most 
Eastern  harbour.  Considerations  of  quarantine 
prevented  us  from  going  ashore,  and  we  were 
forced  to  wait  for  daylight  to  see  what  the  place 
was  like. 

Early  on  deck  next  morning  we  watched  the 
mists  fade  away  until  Wei-hai-wei  stood  revealed 
in  the  strong  light  of  the  sun.  Our  latest  posses- 
sion in  the  East  consists  of  a  small  island,  called 
Liu-Kung-tao,  on  which  stands  the  town.  It  lies 
about  four  miles  from  the  mainland,  of  which  a  few 
hundred  square  miles  has  been  leased  to  England. 
The  harbour  is  sheltered  to  the  south  by  the  hills 
on  the  coast,  to  the  north  by  the  island.  It  affords 
ample  anchorage  for  a  large  fleet,  but  could  not  be 
adequately  defended  without  a  large  expenditure. 
During  the  China-Japan  War  the  Chinese  fleet 
sheltered  in  it  until  routed  out  by  the  Japanese 
torpedo  boats ;  while  the  Japanese  army  marched 
along  the  heights  of  the  mainland,  seized  the  forts 


4  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

on  them,   and,   turning   their  guns  on  the  island, 
forced  its  surrender. 

At  the  end  of  the  island,  round  which  our  trans- 
port had  passed,  was  a  small  peninsula,  on  which 
stood  the  fort  we  had  seen.  Dismantled  now,  it 
was  unused  by  the  present  garrison.  Close  by,  on 
reclaimed  land,  lay  the  recreation  ground  ;  and  even 
at  the  early  hour  at  which  we  saw  it,  tennis  and 
cricket  were  in  full  swing.  Just  above  it,  in  that 
close  proximity  of  life  and  death  found  ever  in 
the  East,  was  the  cemetery,  where  many  crosses 
and  tombstones  showed  already  the  price  we  pay 
for  empire.  Near  at  hand  was  the  magazine,  over 
which  a  Royal  Marine  sentry  watched.  Below,  to 
the  right,  lay  the  Naval  Dockyard  with  a  pier 
running  out  into  the  harbour,  one  destroyer  along- 
side it,  another  moored  a  short  distance  out.  Along 
the  sea-front  and  rising  in  tier  after  tier  stood 
well-built  stone  Chinese  houses,  which  now,  large- 
windowed  and  improved,  serve  as  residences,  shops, 
and  offices  for  Europeans.  A  staring  whitewashed 
wall  bore  the  inscription  in  big,  black  letters,  "Ah 
Ting.  Naval  Dairy  Farm."  A  picturesque,  open- 
work wall  with  Chinese  summer-houses  at  either 
end  enclosed  the  Club.  Farther  on,  a  little  above 
the  harbour,  stone  steps  through  walled  terraces  led 
up  to  the  Headquarter  Office,  once  the  Yamen — 
a  long  row  of  single-storied  houses  with  a  quaint 
gateway,  on  either  side  of  which  were  painted  grim 
Chinese  figures  of  heroic  size.  On  the  terrace  in 


FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO   TIENTSIN         5 

front  stood  some  large  Krupp  guns  with  shields, 
taken  in  the  present  campaign.  The  Queen's  House, 
as  these  buildings  are  called,  divides  the  naval  from 
the  military  quarter  of  the  town,  the  latter  lying 
to  the  right.  A  few  good  European  bungalows 
sheltered  the  General,  the  Commanding  Royal 
Engineer,  and  the  local  representative  of  the  famous 
firm  of  Jardine,  Mathieson,  and  Company.  In  the 
lines  of  Chinese  houses  close  by  were  the  residences 
of  the  military  officers  and  the  hotel.  To  the 
right  stacks  of  fodder  proclaimed  the  presence  of 
the  Indian  Commissariat.  Past  open  ground  lay  a 
small  camp  and  a  few  more  houses. 

Above  the  town  the  island  rises  in  terraced 
slopes  to  the  summit,  four  to  six  hundred  feet  high, 
the  regular  outline  of  which  was  broken  by  mounds 
of  upturned  earth  that  marked  the  beginning  of  a 
new  fort.  On  the  hillside  are  long  stone  walls  with 
gates  at  intervals,  which  date  from  the  Chinese 
occupation,  built  by  them,  not  to  keep  the  enemy 
out  in  time  of  war,  but  to  keep  their  own  soldiers 
in.  Well-laid  roads  lead  to  the  summit  or  round 
the  island.  The  slopes  are  green  with  small  shrubs 
and  grass,  but  nothing  worthy  of  the  name  of  tree  is 
apparent.  Towards  the  eastern  end  were  the  rifle- 
ranges,  near  which  a  fort  was  being  constructed. 

In  the  harbour  was  a  powerful  squadron  of 
British  battleships  and  cruisers ;  for  Wei-hai-wei 
is  the  summer  rendezvous  of  our  fleet  in  Chinese 
waters. 


6  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

To  the  south  the  mainland  lay  in  a  semicircle. 
Rugged,  barren  hills  rise  abruptly — in  many  places 
almost  from  the  water's  edge.  Where  the  ground 
slopes  more  gently  back  from  the  sea  lines  of  sub- 
stantial stone  barracks  have  been  erected  for  the 
Chinese  Regiment,  with  excellent  officers'  quarters 
and  a  good  mess.  Nestling  among  trees — almost 
the  only  ones  to  be  seen  on  the  iron-bound  coast — 
lies  a  large  village.  East  of  it  a  long  triangle 
of  embrasured  stone  wall — the  base  on  the  shore, 
the  apex  half-way  up  the  hill  behind — guards  the 
original  town  of  Wei-hai-wei,  which  still  owns 
Chinese  sovereignty,  though  all  the  country  round 
is  British  territory.  A  few  good  bungalows  and  a 
large  and  well-built  hotel  mark  where  the  future 
Brighton  of  North  China  has  already  begun  to 
claim  a  recognition ;  for  in  the  summer  months  the 
European  residents  of  Tientsin,  Pekin,  even  of 
Shanghai  are  commencing  to  congregate  there  in 
search  of  cool  breezes  and  a  healthy  climate.  High 
up  above  all  towers  the  chain  of  rugged  hills  from 
whose  summits  the  victorious  Japanese  gazed  down 
on  the  wrecked  Chinese  fleet  and  the  battered 
forts  of  the  island.  Behind  it,  forty  miles  away, 
lies  the  little-known  treaty  port  of  Chifu  with  its 
prosperous  foreign  settlement. 

The  day  advanced.  From  the  warships  in  the 
harbour  the  bugle-calls  rang  out  merrily  in  the 
morning  air,  answered  by  the  brazen  clangour  of  the 
trumpets  of  the  Royal  Artillery  ashore.  The  rattle 


FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO   TIENTSIN         7 

of  musketry  came  from  the  rifle-ranges,  where 
squads  of  marines  were  firing.  Along  the  sea- 
front  tramped  a  guard  of  the  Chinese  Regiment. 
Clad  in  khaki  with  blue  putties  and  straw  hats,  they 
marched  with  a  soldierly  swing  to  the  Queen's 
House,  climbed  the  steps,  and  disappeared  in  the 
gateway.  Coolies  laboured  at  the  new  fortifications. 
Boats  shot  out  from  the  pier  and  headed  for  the 
warships.  Volumes  of  dense  black  smoke  poured 
from  the  chimneys  of  the  condensing  works — for  no 
water  fit  for  drinking  is  found  on  the  island.  A 
cruiser  steamed  out  from  her  moorings  to  gun- 
practice  in  the  bay.  And  hour  after  hour  we  waited 
for  the  coming  of  the  Health  Officer,  who  alone 
could  allow  us  to  land.  But,  instead,  the  Transport 
Officer  arrived,  bearing  orders  for  the  ship  to  start 
at  once  for  Taku.  And  so,  with  never  a  chance  for 
us  to  go  ashore,  the  anchor  rumbled  up  and  out  we 
headed  by  the  eastern  passage.  As  we  steamed 
out  to  sea  we  passed  the  tiny  Sun  Island,  merely  a 
deserted  fort,  still  showing  how  cruelly  battered  and 
torn  it  had  been  by  the  Japanese  shells.  Round 
the  steep  north  side  of  the  island  we  swung  and 
shaped  our  course  for  Taku  in  the  track  of  the 
Allied  Fleets  that  had  swept  in  vengeful  haste  over 
those  same  waters  to  the  merited  punishment  of 
China.  All  that  day  we  passed  along  a  rocky  and 
mountainous  coast  and  in  among  islands  of  strange 
and  fantastic  shape.  Here  an  elephant,  there  a 
lion,  carved  in  stone  lay  in  slumber  on  the  placid 


8  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

sea.  Yonder  a  camel  reposed  in  Nirvana-like  ab- 
straction. On  one  islet,  the  only  sign  of  life  or 
human  habitation  we  saw,  stood  a  lighthouse,  like 
unto  lighthouses  all  the  world  over. 

Next  morning  we  awoke  to  find  the  ship  at 
anchor.  "  Taku  at  last,"  was  the  cry  ;  and,  pyjama 
clad,  we  rushed  on  deck.  To  see  what  ?  Where 
was  Taku  ?  All  around  a  heaving,  troubled  waste 
of  muddy  sea,  bearing  on  its  bosom  the  ponderous 
shapes  of  warships  —  British,  French,  Russian, 
German,  Austrian,  Italian,  Japanese.  Close  by, 
a  fleet  of  merchantmen  flying  the  red  ensign,  the 
horizontal  stripes  of  the  "  Vaterland,"  or  the  red 
ball  on  white  ground  of  the  marvellous  little  islands 
that  claim  to  be  the  England  of  tfie  Far  East. 
Tugs  and  lighters  were  making  for  a  German 
transport,  the  decks  of  which  were  crowded  with 
soldiers.  But  of  land  not  a  sign.  For  the  road- 
stead of  Taku  is  so  shallow  that  no  ship  of  any 
considerable  draught  can  approach  the  shore,  and 
we  were  then  ten  miles  out  from  the  coast. 
Passengers  and  cargo  must  be  taken  ashore  in 
tugs  and  lighters.  Only  those  who  have  seen  the 
place  can  appreciate  the  difficulties  under  which 
the  transport  officers  of  the  various  armies  laboured 
in  landing  men,  horses,  guns,  and  the  necessary 
vast  stores  of  every  description.  And  Captain 
Elderton,  Royal  Indian  Marine,  well  deserved 
the  D.S.O.  which  rewarded  him  for  the  excellent 
work  he  performed  at  the  beginning  of  the 


FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO  TIENTSIN         9 

campaign ;  when,  having  successfully  conveyed 
our  expedition  ashore,  he  was  able  to  lend  in- 
valuable assistance  to  the  troops  of  many  of  the 
Allies. 

The  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Peiho  River,  which 
flows  into  the  sea  at  Taku,  can  only  be  crossed 
at  high  tide ;  so  we  were  forced  to  remain  on 
board  until  the  afternoon.  Then,  embarking  on  a 
launch  that  had  come  out  to  meet  us,  we  steamed 
in  to  the  land  through  a  rough  and  tumbling  sea. 
As  we  drew  near,  the  low-lying  shore  rose  into 
view.  On  each  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Peiho 
ran  long  lines  of  solid  earthworks  —  the  famous 
Taku  Forts.  Taken  in  reverse  and  bombarded 
by  the  gunboats  lying  in  the  river,  gallantly 
assaulted  by  landing  parties  from  the  Allied  Fleets, 
which,  owing  to  the  shallowness  of  the  water,  could 
lend  no  other  assistance,  they  fell  after  a  desperate 
struggle,  and  now  from  their  ramparts  flew  the 
flags  of  the  conquering  nations.  Here  paced  an 
Italian  sentry,  there  a  Russian  soldier  leaned 
on  a  quick-firing  Krupp  gun ;  for  the  forts  were 
armed  with  the  most  modern  ordnance.  The  red 
coat  of  a  British  marine  or  the  white  clothing  of 
a  group  of  Japanese  artillerymen  lent  a  few  specks 
of  bright  colour  to  the  dingy  earthworks. 

Close  to  the  entrance  of  the  Peiho  stands  a 
tall  stone  building ;  near  it  is  the  Taku  Pilots' 
Club,  their  houses,  comfortable  bungalows,  close 
at  hand.  Between  flat,  marshy  shores  the  river 


io  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

winds,  its  banks  crowded  with  mud  huts.  Farther 
up  we  passed  a  small  dock,  in  which  lay  a  gunboat 
flying  the  Russian  flag.  Then  more  gunboats — 
American,  French,  and  Japanese.  A  few  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  Tong-ku,  the 
terminus  of  the  Tientsin-Pekin  Railway.  At  the 
outset  of  the  campaign  all  nationalities,  except 
the  British,  had  chosen  this  for  their  landing-place 
and  established  their  depots  here.  As  we  steamed 
past,  we  looked  on  a  scene  of  restless  activity. 
Russian,  French,  German,  and  Italian  soldiers 
were  busy  disembarking  stores  and  materiel  from 
the  lighters  alongside,  loading  railway  trucks  in 
the  temporary  sidings,  entraining  horses  and  guns. 
The  English,  more  practical,  had  selected  a  landing- 
place  a  few  miles  farther  up,  at  Hsin-ho.  Here 
they  found  themselves  in  sole  occupation,  and  the 
confusion  inevitable  among  so  many  different 
nationalities  was  consequently  absent.  An  ex- 
cellent wharf  had  been  built,  large  storehouses 
erected,  and  a  siding  constructed  from  a  temporary 
station  on  the  railway.  Hsin-ho  was  our  destina- 
tion. Our  launch  stopped  at  the  quay,  alongside 
which  two  shallow-draught  steamers  and  a  fleet 
of  lighters  were  lying.  Men  of  the  Coolie  Corps 
were  hard  at  work ;  close  by  stood  a  guard  of 
the  stalwart  Punjaub  sepoys  of  the  Hong  Kong 
Regiment.  Overhead  flew  the  Union  Jack. 

Our  luggage  was  speedily  disembarked.     Most 
of  our  fellow-passengers,  learning  that  a  train  for 


FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO   TIENTSIN        n 

Tientsin  was  due  to  leave  almost  at  once,  hurried 
off  to  the  railway  station,  about  a  mile  away.  Three 
of  us  of  the  same  regiment  were  met  by  a  brother 
officer  who  was  in  charge  of  a  detachment  at 
Hsin-ho.  He  offered  us  the  hospitality  of  the 
station  mess,  composed  of  those  employed  on 
various  duties  at  the  place ;  and,  desirous  of  seeing 
how  the  work  of  the  disembarkation  of  a  large 
force  was  carried  out,  we  determined  to  remain 
for  the  night. 

We  visited  Tong-ku  that  afternoon,  and  found 
a  marked  difference  in  the  methods  prevailing  there 
and  at  Hsin-ho.  The  presence  of  so  many  different 
nationalities  naturally  entailed  great  confusion.  At 
the  railway  station  a  very  babel  of  languages  re- 
sounded on  every  side. 

One  truck  with  German  stores  had  to  be  de- 
tached from  a  goods  train  and  sent  down  one 
siding ;  the  next,  with  French  cavalry  horses,  sent 
down  another;  a  Russian  and  an  Italian  officer 
disputed  the  ownership  of  a  third.  Lost  baggage- 
guards  stood  disconsolate  or  wandered  round  aim- 
lessly until  rescued  by  their  transport  officers. 
Detachments  of  Continental  troops  stood  helplessly 
waiting  for  someone  to  conduct  them  to  their 
proper  trains.  Disorder  reigned  supreme. 

At  Hsin-ho  everything  proceeded  without  con- 
fusion. It  might  have  been  an  up-country  station 
in  the  heart  of  India.  Comfortable  huts  had  been 
built  for  the  detachment  responsible  for  the  guard 


12  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

duties;  and  the  various  details  were  equally  well 
accommodated.  The  military  officers  had  estab- 
lished themselves  in  a  stone  house  that  had 
formerly  been  the  quarters  of  a  railway  engineer. 
The  Royal  Indian  Marine  officers  in  charge  of 
the  naval  transport  had  settled  down  with  the 
readiness  with  which  sailors  adapt  themselves  to 
shore  life.  A  line  of  felt-roofed,  mud  huts  had  been 
turned  by  them  into  an  excellent  mess  and  quarters. 
A  raised  terrace  looked  down  on  a  tennis-court, 
on  the  far  side  of  which  a  pond  in  the  mud  flats, 
stretching  away  to  the  horizon,  boasted  a  couple 
of  canoes.  From  a  tall  flagstaff  that  stood  on 
the  terrace  floated  the  blue  ensign  and  Star  of 
India  of  their  Service. 

The  railway  siding  ran  past  large  and  well-built 
storehouses.  On  the  river  bank  long  lines  of 
mules  were  picketed,  looking  in  excellent  condition 
despite  the  hard  work  they  had  gone  through.  In 
a  little  cutting  in  the  bank  was  an  old  and  tiny 
steam  tug,  which  had  been  turned  into  a  condenser 
for  drinking-water.  Everything  was  trim  and  tidy. 
The  work  of  disembarking  the  stores  from  the 
lighters  in  the  river  and  putting  them  into  the 
railway  trucks  almost  alongside  went  on  in  perfect 
order,  all  in  marked  contrast  to  the  confusion  that 
prevailed  at  Tong-ku. 

Early  next  morning  we  were  en  route  for  Tient- 
sin. My  brother  officers  and  I  tramped  down 
through  awful  mud  to  the  long  platform  which  was 


FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO  TIENTSIN        13 

dignified  by  the  title  of  "Hsin-ho  Railway  Station." 
A  small  house  close  by  sheltered  the  railway  em- 
ployees and  the  telegraph  staff,  signallers  of  the 
Army  Telegraph  Department. 

The  train  from  the  Tong-ku  terminus  soon 
appeared,  and  as  it  steamed  in  presented  a — to 
us — novel  appearance.  Leaning  out  of  the  win- 
dows was  a  motley  crowd  of  many  nationalities. 
Out  of  one  appeared  the  heads  of  a  boyish  Cossack 
and  a  bearded  Sikh.  The  next  displayed  the 
chubby  face  of  a  German  soldier  beside  the  dark 
features  of  an  Italian  sailor.  When  the  train 
stopped,  a  smart  Australian  bluejacket  stepped  out 
of  the  brake-van.  He  was  the  guard.  In  the 
corridor  cars  were  Yagers,  Austrian  sailors,  brawny 
American  soldiers,  baggy-trousered  Zouave  and 
red-breeched  Chasseur  d'Afrique.  Sturdy  little 
Japanese  infantrymen  sat  beside  tall  Bengal  Lan- 
cers. A  small  Frenchman  chatted  volubly  with  a 
German  trooper  from  the  Lost  Provinces.  Smart 
Tommy  Atkins  gazed  in  wondering  disdain  at  the 
smaller  Continental  soldiers,  or  listened  with  an 
amused  smile  to  the  vitriolic  comments  of  a  Yankee 
friend  on  the  manners  and  appearance  of  "those 
darned  Dagoes."  And  among  them,  perfectly  at 
his  ease,  sat  the  imperturbable  Chinaman,  appar- 
ently a  little  bored  but  otherwise  quite  uninterested 
in  the  "foreign  devils." 

The  first-class  carriages  were  filled  with  the 
officers  of  every  nation  whose  flag  now  waved  on 


14  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Chinese  soil.  Russians  in  white  coats  with  flat 
caps  and  gold  shoulder-straps  sat  side  by  side  with 
khaki-clad  Britishers ;  Italian  officers  in  yellow ; 
Frenchmen  in  every  shade  of  supposed -to -be 
khaki ;  Germans  with  silver  belts  and  sashes ; 
Japanese  with  many  medals  and  enamelled  decora- 
tions on  their  breasts.  As  we  entered  our  carriage 
we  touched  our  helmets  to  the  previous  occupants — 
a  salute  which  was  punctiliously  returned  by  every- 
one present.  Settling  ourselves  in  our  seats,  our 
interest  was  at  first  fully  absorbed  by  the  various 
uniforms  around  us ;  and  it  was  some  time  before 
we  could  devote  our  attention  to  the  scenery 
through  which  we  were  passing. 

The  train  ran  first  over  wide-stretching  mud 
flats,  then  through  a  level,  monotonous  country, 
flooded  or  covered  with  high  crops;  and,  barely  seen 
above  the  tall  vegetation,  here  and  there  roofless 
houses  and  ruined  villages  showed  the  track  of 
war.  At  every  bridge  and  culvert  stood  a  tent 
with  a  guard  of  an  Indian  regiment,  the  sentry 
presenting  arms  as  the  train  passed.  The  stations 
along  the  line  were  numerous.  Over  their  stone 
buildings  floated  the  Union  Jack,  for  the  railway 
was  now  in  British  hands.  On  each  platform  the 
same  scene  presented  itself.  The  English  Staff 
Officer  in  khaki  and  red-banded  forage  cap ;  the 
stalwart  Indian  sentry ;  a  varied  mob  of  French 
and  German  soldiers,  Sikhs,  Mussulmans,  Chinese. 

The  fields  of   luxuriant,  waving  grain  stretched 


FROM   WEI-HAI-WEI   TO   TIENTSIN        15 

away  to  the  rim  of  the  distant  horizon.  A  trail  of 
smoke,  the  tall  masts  of  junks  showed  where  the 
river  wound  in  frequent  bends.  At  length  we 
passed  the  extensive  buildings  and  high  chimneys 
of  the  Chinese  Arsenal,  captured  by  our  marines 
and  held  by  the  Russians ;  and  above  the  trees 
towers  and  domes  told  that  we  were  nearing 
Tientsin.  Then  through  a  gap  in  a  big  earthen 
wall  that  is  twenty  miles  in  circumference,  past 
many  sidings  and  long  lines  of  iron  trucks  and 
waggons  with  bullet-marked  sides,  eloquent  of  fierce 
fighting,  we  ran  into  the  station. 

A  commonplace,  uninteresting  place  at  first  sight 
— just  the  ordinary  railway  station  with  the  usual 
sheds,  iron  bridge,  offices,  refreshment-room.  Yet 
here,  not  long  before,  white  men  and  yellow  had 
closed  in  deadly  struggle,  and  the  rails  and  plat- 
forms had  been  dyed  red  with  the  blood  of  heroes. 
The  sides  of  the  iron  water-tank,  the  walls  of  the 
engine-house,  were  patched  and  repaired  ;  for  shells 
from  the  most  modern  guns  had  rained  on  them  for 
days.  The  stone  walls  were  loopholed  and  bullet- 
splashed.  Many  of  the  buildings  were  roofless, 
their  shattered  ruins  attesting  the  accuracy  of  the 
Chinese  gunners.  At  yonder  corner  the  fanatical 
Boxers  had  burst  in  a  wild  night  attack,  and  even 
European  soldiers  had  retreated  before  the  fury  of 
their  onslaught.  But  the  men  of  the  hitherto  un- 
tried Hong  Kong  Regiment,  sturdy  sons  of  the 
Punjaub  plains  or  Frontier  hills,  had  swept  down 


i6 

on  them  with  the  cold  steel  and  bayoneted  them 
in  and  under  the  trucks ;  until  even  Chinese 
fanaticism  could  stand  it  no  longer  and  the  few 
survivors  fled  in  the  friendly  darkness.  For  that 
brave  exploit,  the  Subhedar  Major  of  the  corps 
now  wears  the  Star  of  the  Indian  Empire.  From 
the  mud  walls  of  that  village,  scarce  two  hundred 
yards  away,  the  European-drilled  Imperial  troops, 
armed  with  the  latest  magazine  rifles,  had  searched 
with  deadly  aim  every  yard  of  open  ground  over 
which  the  defenders  advanced.  Across  this  ditch 
the  Boxers,  invincible  in  their  mad  belief,  had 
swarmed  in  the  face  of  a  murderous  fire,  and 
filled  it  with  their  dead.  Not  a  foot  of  ground  in 
that  prosaic  railway  station  but  had  its  tale  of 
desperate  fanaticism  or  disciplined  valour 


CHAPTER    II 
TIENTSIN 

"  I  ^HE  foreign  settlement  of  Tientsin  and  the 
JL  Chinese  city  are  entirely  separate,  and  lie 
some  distance  apart.  The  former,  resembling  more 
a  European  town  than  an  alien  lodgment  in  the 
heart  of  the  Celestial  Empire,  boasts  wide  roads 
and  well-kept  streets,  large  offices  and  lofty  ware- 
houses, good  public  buildings  and  comfortable 
villas,  a  racecourse  and  a  polo-ground.  It  is 
divided  into  the  Concessions  of  the  various  nation- 
alities, of  which  the  English,  in  size  and  mercantile 
importance,  is  easily  first.  The  difference  between 
it  and  the  next  largest — the  French — is  very 
marked.  The  latter,  though  possessing  a  few  good 
streets,  several  hotels,  and  at  least  one  long  busi- 
ness thoroughfare  with  fine  shops,  speaks  all  too 
plainly  of  stagnation.  The  British  quarter,  bustling, 
crowded,  tells  just  as  clearly  of  thriving  trade.  In 
it  are  found  most  of  the  banks,  the  offices  of  the 
more  considerable  merchants,  and  all  the  municipal 
buildings. 

The  Chinese  city,  perhaps,  has  more  charm  for 
the  lover  of  the  picturesque,  though  it  is  less  in- 
teresting now  than  formerly,  since  the  formidable 
c  17 


i8  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

embrasured  wall  surrounding  it  has  been  pulled 
flown  by  order  of  the  Allied  generals.  In  it  stands 
a  grim  memento  of  another  outburst  of  fanaticism 
against  the  hated  foreigner — the  ruins  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  destroyed  by  the  Chinese  in 
1870.  The  city  itself  is  like  unto  all  other  Celestial 
cities.  Narrow  lanes,  low  houses,  ill-kept  thorough- 
fares, gaudiness  and  dirt  intermingled,  stench  and 
filth  abominable.  To  it,  however,  was  wont  to  go 
the  seeker  after  curiosities,  choice  silks,  or  rich  furs 
from  Manchuria  and  Corea.  But  the  retributive 
looting  that  fell  on  it  after  its  capture  has  left  it- 
bare  indeed. 

On  the  platform  of  the  railway  station  almost 
the  first  friendly  face  we  saw  was  that  of  perhaps 
the  best-known  man  in  North  China,  Major  Whittal, 
Hyderabad  Contingent  Interpreter  in  Russian, 
fluent  in  French  and  German,  his  linguistic  abilities 
had  been  responsible  for  his  appointment  to  the 
scarcely  enviable  post  of  Railway  Staff  Officer  at 
Tientsin.  In  a  town  that  held  the  headquarters  of 
every  foreign  army,  where  troops  and  stores  of  all 
kinds  were  despatched  or  arrived  daily  in  charge 
of  representatives  of  the  different  forces,  such  a 
position  required  the  possession  of  a  genius  for 
organisation  and  infinite  tact  and  patience.  Even 
as  we  greeted  him,  French,  Russian,  or  German 
officers  and  soldiers  crowded  round,  to  harry  him 
with  questions  in  divers  tongues  or  propound 
problems  as  to  the  departure  of  troop  trains  or 


TIENTSIN  19 

the  disposal  of  waggons  loaded  with  supplies  for 
their  respective  armies.  The  Britisher  is  usually 
supposed  to  be  the  least  versed  of  any  in  foreign 
languages.  But  the  Continental  officers  were  very 
much  surprised  to  find  how  many  linguists  we 
boasted  in  our  expeditionary  force.  At  every  im- 
portant railway  station  we  had  a  staff  officer  who 
was  an  interpreter  in  one  or  more  European  lan- 
guages. There  were  many  who  had  passed 
examinations  in  Chinese.  A  French  major  re- 
marked to  me  one  day  :  "  Voild,  monsieur,  we  have 
always  thought  that  an  Englishman  knows  no  tongue 
but  his  own.  Yet  we  find  but  few  of  your  officers 
who  cannot  converse  with  us  in  ours.  Not  all  well, 
certainly ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  how  many  of  us 
can  talk  with  you  in  English  ?  Scarcely  any.  And 
many  of  you  speak  Russian,  German,  or  Italian." 
It  was  not  the  only  surprising  fact  they  learned 
about  the  hitherto  despised  Anglo-Indian  army. 

Leaving  Major  Whittal  surrounded  by  a  poly- 
glot crowd,  and  handing  over  the  luggage  to  our 
sword  orderlies,  we  seated  ourselves  in  rickshas 
and  set  out  in  search  of  quarters.  The  European 
settlement  is  separated  from  the  railway  station  by 
the  Peiho  River.  We  crossed  over  a  bridge  of 
boats,  which  swings  aside  to  allow  the  passage  of 
vessels  up  or  down.  At  either  end  stood  a  French 
sentry,  to  stop  the  traffic  when  the  bridge  was  about 
to  open.  The  stream  was  crowded  with  junks 
loaded  with  stores  for  the  various  armies,  and  flying 


20  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

the  flag  of  the  nation  in  whose  service  they  were 
employed.  A  steamer  lay  at  a  wharf — an  unusual 
sight,  for  few  ships  of  any  draught  can  safely  over- 
come the  difficulties  of  the  shallow  river.  Along 
the  far  bank  ran  a  broad  road,  known  as  the  Bund, 
bordered  with  well-built  warehouses  and  offices. 
Some  of  these  bore  eloquent  testimony  to  the 
severity  of  the  Chinese  shell  fire  during  the  siege. 
The  Tricolour  flew  over  the  first  houses  we  passed, 
for  the  French  Concession  lies  nearest  the  station. 
At  the  gates  of  those  buildings,  used  as  barracks, 
lounged  men  of  the  Infanterie  Coloniale,  clad  in 
loose  white  or  blue  uniforms,  with  large  and  clumsy 
helmets.  A  few  hundred  yards  farther  down  we 
reached  the  English  settlement,  and  turned  up  a 
wide  street,  in  which  was  situated  the  fine  official 
residence  of  the  British  Consul  -  General.  We 
arrived  at  last  at  the  mess  of  the  Hong  Kong 
Regiment,  where  two  of  us  were  to  find  quarters. 
It  stood  in  a  narrow  lane  surrounded  by  houses 
shattered  by  shells  during  the  siege.  Close  by 
were  the  messes  of  the  Royal  Welch  Fusiliers  and 
the  3rd  Bombay  Light  Cavalry  in  dark  and  gloomy 
Chinese  buildings. 

In  the  afternoon  we  paid  our  first  visit  to  the 
Tientsin  Club.  It  was  crowded  with  representatives 
of  almost  every  nationality.  Britishers,  Americans, 
French,  Russians,  and  Austrians  were  clinking 
glasses  amid  a  chorus  of  "  A  votre  sant£ !  "  "  Good 
health !  "  "  Svatches  dor6via !  "  and  "  Here's  how !  " 


TIENTSIN  21 

Even  an  occasional  smart  little  Japanese  officer  was 
to  be  seen.  Naval  uniforms  were  almost  as  much 
in  evidence  as  military  garb ;  for  the  officers  of  the 
Allied  Fleets  lying  off  Taku  varied  the  monotony 
of  riding  at  anchor,  out  of  sight  of  the  land,  by 
an  occasional  run  ashore  and  a  visit  to  Tientsin 
and  Pekin.  The  utmost  good  fellowship  prevailed 
among  the  different  nationalities.  French  was  the 
usual  medium  of  intercourse  between  Continental 
officers  and  those  of  the  English-speaking  races. 
Britishers  might  be  seen  labouring  through  the  in- 
tricacies of  the  irregular  verbs  which  had  vexed 
their  brains  during  schooldays,  or  lamenting  their 
neglect  to  keep  up  their  early  acquaintance  with  the 
language  of  diplomacy  and  international  courtesy. 
The  bond  of  a  common  tongue  drew  the  Americans 
and  the  English  still  more  closely  together,  and 
the  greatest  friendship  existed  between  all  ranks 
of  both  nationalities.  The  heroic  bravery  of  the 
sailors  and  soldiers  of  the  great  Republic  of  the 
West  earned  the  praise  and  admiration  of  their 
British  comrades,  who  were  justly  proud  of  the 
kinship  that  was  more  marked  than  ever  during 
those  days  when  the  Stars  and  Stripes  flew  side 
by  side  with  the  Union  Jack.  The  famous  saying 
of  the  American  commodore,  "  Blood  is  stronger 
than  water,"  and  the  timely  aid  given  by  him  to 
our  imperilled  sailors  in  this  same  vexed  land  of 
China,  were  green  in  our  memory.  The  language 
difficulty  unfortunately  prevented  much  intercourse 


22  THE    LAND   OF   THE    BOXERS 

with  the  Japanese  officers.  Some  of  them,  how- 
ever, were  acquainted  with  English,  and  these  were 
readily  welcomed  by  British  and  Americans. 

The  club  stands  in  the  broad,  tree-shaded  Victoria 
Road.  Next  to  it  is  the  Gordon  Hall,  a  handsome 
structure  famous  as  the  refuge  of  the  women  and 
children  during  the  bombardment.  It  contains  a 
theatre  and  a  public  library,  and  is  the  scene  of 
most  of  the  festivities  in  Tientsin.  Before  its  door 
stands  an  object-lesson  of  the  siege — two  small 
guns  of  Seymour's  gallant  column  flanked  by  enor- 
mous shells  captured  from  the  Chinese.  The  two 
tall  towers  were  a  conspicuous  mark  for  the  hostile 
artillerymen,  as  was  the  even  loftier  German  Club 
facing  it.  Close  by  are  the  small  but  pretty  Public 
Gardens,  where,  in  the  afternoons,  the  bands  of  the 
various  regiments  used  to  play.  Nearer  the  French 
Concession  stands  a  large  hotel,  the  Astor  House; 
its  long  verandah  was  the  favourite  resort  of  the 
foreign  officers.  The  groups  in  varied  uniforms 
sitting  round  the  small  marble  tables  gave  it  the 
appearance  of  a  Continental  cafe — an  illusion  not 
dispelled  by  the  courtesy  which  prevailed.  As  each 
new-comer  entered  he  saluted  the  company  present, 
who  all  rose  and  bowed  in  reply. 

Behind  the  Victoria  Road  runs  the  famous,  or 
infamous,  Taku  Road,  the  scene  of  so  many  dis- 
graceful brawls  between  the  Allied  troops.  For 
part  of  its  length  it  is  lined  by  commercial  build- 
ing's, but  towards  the  French  Concession  were 

' 


TIENTSIN  23 

many  houses  tenanted  by  the  frail  sisterhood.  Their 
presence  attracted  the  worst  characters  among  the 
men  of  the  various  armies,  and  disorder  was  rife. 
It  culminated  at  length  in  a  wanton  attack  on  a 
small  patrol  of  the  Royal  Welch  Fusiliers  by  a 
drunken  mob  of  Continental  soldiers.  A  Japanese 
guard  close  by  turned  out  to  the  aid  of  their 
English  comrades,  and,  wasting  no  time  in  parley, 
dropped  at  once  on  the  knee  to  fire  into  the 
aggressors.  They  were  restrained  with  difficulty 
by  the  corporal  in  charge  of  the  British  patrol,  who 
vainly  endeavoured  to  pacify  the  mob.  Forced 
at  length  to  use  their  rifles  in  self-defence,  the 
Fusiliers  did  so  to  some  effect.  Two  soldiers 
were  killed,  eight  others  wounded,  and  the 
remainder  fled.  Naturally  enough,  great  excite- 
ment and  indignation  were  aroused  at  first  among 
the  troops  to  which  these  men  belonged ;  but  it 
died  away  when  the  truth  was  known.  An  inter- 
national court  of  inquiry,  having  carefully  investi- 
gated the  case,  exonerated  the  corporal  from  all 
blame  and  justified  his  action.  Such  unfortunate 
occurrences  were  only  to  be  expected  among  the 
soldiers  of  so  many  mixed  nationalities,  and  the 
fact  that  they  did  not  happen  more  frequently 
spoke  well  for  the  general  discipline.  At  the  end 
farthest  from  the  French  Concession  the  Taku 
Road  ran  through  a  number  of  small  cafes  and 
beer-saloons,  much  patronised  by  the  German  troops, 
whose  barracks  lay  close  by. 


24  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

The  sights  of  the  city  and  the  foreign  settlement 
were  soon  exhausted.  But  one  never  tired  of 
watching  the  moving  pictures  of  soldier  life,  or  of 
visiting  the  scenes  of  the  deadly  fighting  memorable 
for  ever  in  the  history  of  North  China.  The  long 
stretches  of  mud  flats  lying  between  the  Chinese 
town  and  the  Concessions,  over  which  shot  and 
shell  had  flown  for  weeks;  the  roofless  villages;  the 
shattered  houses;  the  loopholed  and  bullet-splashed 
walls.  There,  during  long  days  and  anxious  nights, 
the  usually  pacific  Chinaman,  spurred  on  by  fanatic 
hate  and  lust  of  blood,  had  waged  a  bitter  war 
with  all  the  devilish  cunning  of  his  race.  There 
the  mad  rushes  of  frenzied  Boxers,  reckless  of 
life,  hurling  themselves  fearlessly  with  antiquated 
weapons  against  a  well  -  armed  foe.  There  the 
Imperial  soldiers,  trained  by  European  officers, 
showed  that  their  instruction  had  borne  fruit. 
From  every  cover,  natural  or  improvised,  they 
used  their  magazine  rifles  with  accuracy  and  effect. 
Lieutenant  Fair,  R.N.,  Flag- Lieutenant  to  Admiral 
Seymour,  told  me  that  he  has  often  watched  them 
picking  up  the  range  as  carefully  and  judiciously 
as  a  Boer  marksman.  And  his  Admiral,  con- 
spicuous in  white  uniform  and  dauntlessly  exposing 
himself  on  the  defences,  escaped  death  again  and 
again  only  by  a  miracle  while  men  fell  at  his 
side.  Nor  was  the  shooting  of  the  Chinese 
gunners  to  be  despised.  Lieutenant  Hutchinson, 
H.M.S.  Terrible^  in  a  redoubt  with  two  of  his 


TIENTSIN  25 

ship's  famous  guns,  engaged  in  a  duel  at  three 
thousand  yards  with  a  Chinese  battery  of  modern 
ordnance.  Of  six  shells  hurled  at  him,  two  struck 
the  parapet  in  front,  two  fell  just  past  his  redoubt, 
and  two  almost  within  it.  Fortunately  none  burst. 
Had  the  mandarins  responsible  for  the  munitions 
of  war  proved  as  true  to  their  trust  as  the 
gunners,  the  Terrible  s  detachment  would  have 
been  annihilated ;  but  when  the  ammunition 
captured  afterwards  from  the  enemy  was  examined, 
it  was  found  that  the  bursting  charges  of  the 
shells  had  been  removed  and  replaced  by  sand. 
The  corrupt  officials  had  extracted  the  powder  and 
sold  it.  A  naval  "450  Maxim  was  most  unpopular 
in  the  defences.  Its  neighbourhood  was  too  un- 
safe, for  whenever  it  opened  fire  the  smoke  be- 
trayed it  to  the  Chinese  gunners,  and  shells  at 
once  fell  fast  around  it.  It  had  finally  to  be 
withdrawn. 

But  the  desperate  losses  among  the  Boxers 
opposed  to  Seymour's  gallant  column,  the  heavy 
fighting  around  Tientsin,  and  the  capture  of  the 
city  broke  the  back  of  the  Chinese  resistance. 
And  when  the  Allied  Army  advanced  on  Pekin, 
no  determined  stand  was  made  after  the  first  battle. 
The  capital,  with  its  famous  and  formidable  walls, 
fell  almost  without  a  blow.  A  sore  disappointment 
to  the  British  Siege  Train,  who,  hurried  out  to 
South  Africa  to  batter  down  the  forts  of  Pretoria, 
found  their  services  uncalled  for  there ;  and  then, 


26  THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

despatched  to  China  for  the  siege  of  Pekin, 
arrived  to  learn  that  there,  too,  they  were  not 
needed. 

The  interest  of  the  Foreign  Settlement  lay  in 
the  crowds  that  thronged  its  streets.  Never  since 
the  occupation  of  Paris  after  Napoleon's  downfall 
has  any  city  presented  such  a  kaleidoscopic  picture 
of  varied  uniforms  and  mixed  troops  of  many 
nations.  I  know  few  things  more  interesting  than 
to  sit  for  an  hour  on  the  Astor  House  verandah 
and  watch  the  living  stream.  Rickshas  go  by 
bearing  officers  of  every  army,  punctiliously  saluting 
all  other  wearers  of  epaulettes  they  pass.  An 
Indian  tonga  bumps  along  behind  two  sturdy  little 
ponies.  After  it  rumbles  a  Russian  transport  cart, 
driven  by  a  white  -  bloused  Cossack.  A  heavy 
German  waggon  pulls  aside  to  make  way  for  a 
carriage  containing  two  Prussian  officers  of  high 
rank.  A  few  small  Japanese  mounted  infantrymen 
trot  by,  looking  far  more  in  keeping  with  the 
diminutive  Chinese  ponies  than  do  the  tall 
Punjaubis  who  follow  them.  Behind  them  are  a 
couple  of  swarthy  Bombay  Lancers  on  well- 
groomed  horses,  gazing  with  all  a  cavalryman's 
disdain  at  the  "Mounted  Foot"  in  front  of  them. 
And  surely  never  was  trooper  of  any  army  so 
picturesque  as  the  Indian  sowar.  A  guard  of 
stolid  German  soldiers  tramps  by.  A  squad  of 
sturdy  Japanese  infantry  passes  a  detachment 
of  heavily  accoutred  French  troops  swinging  along 


TIENTSIN  27 

with  short,  rapid  strides.  And  at  each  street  corner 
and  crossing,  directing  the  traffic,  calm  and  im- 
perturbable, stands  the  man  who  has  made  England 
what  she  is — the  British  private.  All  honour  to 
him !  Smart,  trim,  well  set-up,  he  looks  a  monarch 
among  soldiers,  compared  with  the  men  of  other 
more  military  countries.  Never  have  I  felt  so 
proud  of  Tommy  Atkins  as  when  I  saw  him 
there  contrasted  with  the  pick  of  the  Continental 
armies ;  for  all  the  corps  that  had  been  sent 
out  from  Europe  had  been  specially  selected  to 
do  credit  to  their  nations.  He  was  merely  one 
of  a  regiment  that  had  chanced  to  be  garrison- 
ing England's  farthest  dependency  in  the  East, 
or  of  a  battery  taken  at  random.  In  physique, 
appearance,  and  soldierly  bearing  he  equalled 
them  all.  Even  his  cousin,  the  American,  sturdy 
and  stalwart  as  he  is,  could  not  excel  him  in 
smartness,  though  not  behind  him  in  courage  or 
coolness  in  action.  The  British  officer,  however, 
in  plain  khaki  with  no  adornments  of  rank,  looked 
almost  dowdy  beside  the  white  coats  and  gold 
shoulder-straps  of  the  Russian  or  the  silver  belts 
and  sashes  of  the  German.  But  gay  trappings 
nowadays  are  sadly  out  of  place  in  warfare. 

And  though  within  a  few  miles  the  broken 
Chinese  braves  and  routed  Boxers,  formed  into 
roving  bands  of  robbers,  swooped  down  upon  de- 
fenceless villages,  and  heavily  accoutred  European 
soldiers  trudged  wearily  and  fruitlessly  after  them 


28  THE   LAND   OF   THE   BOXERS 

over  impossible  country,  life  in  Tientsin  flowed  on 
unheeding  in  all  the  gay  tranquillity  of  ordinary 
garrison  existence.  Entertainments  in  the  Gordon 
Hall,  convivial  dinners,  polo,  races,  went  on  as 
though  the  demon  of  war  had  been  exorcised 
from  the  unhappy  land.  Yet  grim  reminders  were 
not  wanting ;  scarcely  a  day  passed  without  seeing 
a  few  miserable  prisoners  brought  in  from  the 
districts  round.  Poor  wretches !  Many  of  them 
were  villagers  who  had  been  driven  into  brigandage 
by  the  burning  of  their  houses  and  the  ruin  of  their 
fields  as  the  avenging  armies  passed.  Some  were 
but  the  victims  of  treacherous  informers,  who,  to 
gain  a  poor  reward  or  gratify  a  petty  spite,  de- 
nounced the  innocent.  And,  with  pigtails  tied 
together,  cuffed  and  hustled  by  their  pitiless  captors, 
they  trudged  on  to  their  doom  with  the  vague  stare 
of  poor  beasts  led  to  the  slaughter.  A  hurried 
trial,  of  which  they  comprehended  nothing,  then 
death.  Scarce  knowing  what  was  happening,  each 
unhappy  wretch  was  led  forth  to  die.  Around  him 
stood  the  fierce  white  soldiers  he  had  learned  to 
dread.  Cruel  men  of  his  own  race  bound  his  arms, 
flung  him  on  his  knees,  and  pulled  his  queue  for- 
ward to  extend  his  neck.  The  executioner,  too 
often  a  pitiful  bungler,  raised  his  sword.  The 
stroke  fell  ;  the  head  leapt  from  the  body ;  the 
trunk  swayed  for  an  instant,  then  collapsed  on  the 
ground. 

Yet  for  many  of  them  such  a  death  was  all  too 


PUBLIC   GARDENS  AND  GORDON    HALL   IN   THE   VICTORIA   ROAD, 
ENGLISH   CONCESSION 


EXECUTION   OF   A   BOXER   BY  THE   FRENCH 


{page  28 


TIENTSIN  29 

merciful.  No  race  on  earth  is  capable  of  such 
awful  cruelty,  such  hellish  devices  of  torture,  as  the 
Chinese.  And  the  unfortunate  missionaries,  the 
luckless  wounded  soldiers  who  fell  into  their  hands, 
experienced  treatment  before  which  the  worst  devil- 
tries of  the  Red  Indian  seemed  humane.  Occasion- 
ally some  of  these  fiends  were  captured  by  the 
Allies ;  often  only  the  instruments,  but  sometimes 
the  instigators  of  the  terrible  outrages  on  Euro- 
peans, the  mandarins  who  had  spurred  on  the 
maddened  Boxers  to  their  worst  excesses.  For 
these  no  fitting  punishment  could  be  devised,  and 
a  swift  death  was  too  kind.  But  in  the  latter  days 
of  the  campaign  too  many  suffered  an  unmerited 
fate.  The  blood  heated  by  the  tales  of  Chinese 
cruelty  at  the  outbreak  of  the  troubles  did  not 
cool  rapidly.  The  murders  of  the  missionaries  and 
civil  engineers,  of  the  unhappy  European  women  and 
children,  could  not  be  readily  forgotten.  The  seed 
sown  in  those  early  days  of  the  fanatical  outburst 
bore  a  bitter  fruit.  The  horrors  that  war  inevitably 
brings  in  its  train  were  aggravated  by  the  memory 
of  former  treachery  and  the  difficulty  of  distinguish- 
ing between  the  innocent  and  the  guilty.  A  very 
slight  alteration  of  dress  sufficed  to  convert  into  a 
harmless  peasant  the  Boxer  whose  hands  were  red 
with  the  blood  of  defenceless  Europeans,  or  of 
Chinese  Christians  whose  mangled  bodies  had 
choked  the  river. 

The  echoes  of  a  greater  struggle  at  the  other 


30  THE   LAND   OF   THE   BOXERS 

side  of  the  globe  filled  the  ears  of  the  world  when 
the  defenders  of  Tientsin  were  holding  fanatical 
hordes  of  besiegers  at  bay.  And  so,  few  in  Europe 
realised  the  deadliness  of  the  fighting  around  the 
little  town  where  hundreds  of  white  women  and 
children  huddled  together  in  terror  of  a  fate  too 
dreadful  for  words.  The  gallant  sailors  and  marines 
who  guarded  it  knew  that  on  them  alone  depended 
the  lives  and  honour  of  these  helpless  ones.  Day 
and  night  they  fought  a  fight,  the  like  of  which 
has  scarcely  been  known  since  the  defenders  of 
the  Residency  at  Lucknow  kept  the  flag  flying 
in  similar  straits  against  a  not  more  savage  foe. 
Outmatched  in  armament,  they  opposed  small, 
almost  out-of-date  guns  to  quick-firing  and  large- 
calibre  Krupps  of  the  latest  pattern.  Outnumbered, 
stricken  by  disease,  assailed  by  fierce  hordes  with- 
out and  threatened  by  traitors  within,  they  held 
their  own  with  a  heroism  that  has  never  gained 
the  meed  of  praise  it  deserved.  From  the  walls 
of  the  Chinese  city,  a  few  thousand  yards  away, 
and  from  the  ample  cover  across  the  narrow  river, 
shells  rained  on  the  unprotected  town,  and  its 
streets  were  swept  by  close-range  rifle  fire.  All 
national  rivalries  forgotten,  Americans,  Russians, 
British,  French,  Germans,  and  Japanese  fought 
shoulder  to  shoulder  against  a  common  foe. 
Admiral  Seymour's  heroic  column,  baffled  in  its 
gallant  dash  on  Pekin,  and  battling  savagely 
against  overwhelming  numbers,  fell  slowly  back 


TIENTSIN  31 

on  the  beleaguered  town.  The  Hsi-ku  Arsenal,  a 
few  miles  from  Tientsin,  barred  the  way,  guarded 
by  a  strong  and  well-armed  force  of  Imperial 
soldiers.  The  desperate  sailors  nerved  themselves 
for  a  last  supreme  effort.  Under  a  terrible  fire  the 
British  marines,  under  Major  Johnstone,  R.M.L.I., 
flung  themselves  on  the  defences  and  drove  out 
the  enemy  with  the  bayonet.  Then,  utterly  ex- 
hausted, its  ammunition  almost  spent,  the  starving 
column  halted  in  the  Arsenal,  unable  to  break 
through  the  environing  hordes  of  besiegers  who 
lay  between  it  and  Tientsin.  A  gallant  attempt 
made  by  two  companies  of  our  marines  to  cut 
their  way  through  was  repulsed  with  heavy  loss. 
The  Chinese  made  several  attempts  to  retake  the 
Arsenal.  A  welcome  reinforcement  of  close  on 
two  thousand  Russian  troops  from  Port  Arthur 
had  enabled  the  besieged  garrison  of  Tientsin  to 
hold  out.  A  relieving  force  was  sent  out  to  bring 
in  the  decimated  column,  utterly  prostrated  by  the 
incessant  fighting.  An  eye-witness  of  their  return, 
Mr.  Drummond,  Chinese  Imperial  Customs,  who 
fought  with  the  Tientsin  Volunteers  throughout 
the  siege,  told  me  that  the  condition  of  Seymour's 
men  was  pitiable  in  the  extreme.  Worn  out  and 
weak,  shattered  by  the  terrible  trials  they  had 
undergone,  they  had  almost  to  be  supported  into 
the  town.  For  sixteen  days  and  nights  they  had 
been  battling  continuously  against  a  well-armed 
and  enterprising  foe.  Their  provisions  had  run 


32  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

out,  and  they  had  been  forced  to  sustain  life  on 
the  foul  water  of  the  river,  which  was  filled  with 
corpses,  and  on  stray  ponies  and  mules  captured 
by  the  way.  Out  of  1,945  men  they  had  295 
casualties.  As  soon  as  the  sailors  and  marines  of 
the  returned  column  were  somewhat  recovered  from 
their  exhaustion,  the  Allied  Forces  moved  out  to 
attack  the  native  city  of  Tientsin,  which  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  strong  and  high  wall,  and  defended 
by  over  sixty  guns,  most  of  them  very  modern 
ordnance.  Covered  by  a  terrific  bombardment  from 
the  naval  guns,  which  had  come  up  from  the  war- 
ships at  Taku,  the  little  army,  5,000  strong,  hurled 
itself  on  the  doomed  city.  But  so  fierce  was  the 
Chinese  defence  that  for  a  day  and  a  night  it 
could  barely  hold  its  own.  But  before  sunrise  the 
Japanese  sappers  blew  open  the  city  gate,  under 
a  heavy  fire.  The  Allies  poured  in  through  the 
way  thus  opened  to  them,  and  the  surviving  de- 
fenders fled,  having  lost  5,000  killed  and  wounded. 
The  Allies  themselves,  out  of  a  total  force  of  5,000, 
had  nearly  800  casualties.  The  enemy's  stronghold 
captured,  the  siege  of  the  European  settlements 
was  raised  after  a  month  of  terrible  stress. 

Between  the  railway  station  and  the  river  lies  a 
small  stretch  of  waste  ground,  a  few  hundred  yards 
in  extent.  Here  arose  the  famous  "  Railway  Siding 
incident."  The  Russians  claimed  it  as  theirs  "by 
right  of  conquest,"  although  it  had  always  been 
recognised  as  the  property  of  the  railway  company. 


TIENTSIN  33 

An  attempt  to  construct  a  siding  on  it  from  the 
station  brought  matters  to  a  crisis.  A  Russian 
guard  was  promptly  mounted  on  it,  and  confronted 
by  a  detachment  of  Indian  troops  under  the  com- 
mand of  Lieutenant  H.  E.  Rudkin,  2Oth  Bombay 
Infantry.  The  situation  in  which  this  young  subal- 
tern was  placed  demanded  a  display  of  tact  and 
firmness  which  might  well  have  overtaxed  the 
resources  of  an  older  man.  But  with  the  self- 
reliance  which  the  Indian  Army  teaches  its  officers 
he  acquitted  himself  most  creditably  in  a  very 
trying  position.  Then  ensued  a  period  of  anxious 
suspense  when  no  man  knew  what  the  morrow 
might  bring  forth.  But  calm  counsels  fortunately 
prevailed.  These  few  yards  of  waste  ground  were 
not  judged  worth  "  the  bones  of  a  single  grenadier," 
and  the  question  was  taken  from  the  hands  of  the 
soldier  and  entrusted  to  the  diplomat. 


CHAPTER    III 
THE  ALLIED  ARMIES   IN   CHINA 

r  I  "O  a  soldier  no  city  in  the  world  could  prove  as 
-L  interesting  as  Tientsin  from  the  unequalled 
opportunity  it  presented  of  contrasting  the  men 
and  methods  of  the  Allied  Armies.  And  the 
officers  of  the  Anglo-Indian  forces  saw  with 
pride  that  they  had  but  little  to  learn  from  their 
Continental  brothers  -  in  -  arms.  In  organisation, 
training,  and  equipment  our  Indian  Army  was 
unsurpassed.  Clad  in  the  triple-proof  armour  of 
self-satisfaction,  the  soldiers  of  Europe  have  rested 
content  in  the  methods  of  1870.  The  effects 
of  the  increased  range  and  destructive  power  of 
modern  weapons  have  not  been  appreciated  by 
them.  Close  formations  are  still  the  rule,  and 
the  history  of  the  first  few  battles  in  the  next 
European  war  will  be  a  record  of  terrible  slaughter. 
The  lessons  of  the  Boer  campaign  are  ignored. 
They  ascribe  the  failures  and  defeats  of  the  British 
forces  to  the  defective  training  and  want  of  morale 
of  our  troops,  and  disdain  to  learn  from  a  "  nation 
of  farmers." 

The  world  has  long  believed  that  the  German 

34 


THE  ALLIED  ARMIES   IN   CHINA        35 

Army  is  in  every  respect  superior  to  all  others. 
But  those  who  saw  its  China  expeditionary  force — 
composed  though  it  was  of  picked  troops  and 
carefully  selected  officers — will  not  agree  with  this 
verdict.  Arriving  too  late  for  the  serious  fighting 
— for  there  were  no  German  troops  in  the  Allied 
Army  which  relieved  the  Legations — it  could  only 
be  criticised  from  its  behaviour  in  garrison  and 
on  a  few  columns  which  did  not  meet  with  very 
serious  opposition.  All  nationalities  had  looked 
forward  eagerly  to  the  opportunity  of  closely  observ- 
ing a  portion  of  the  army  which  has  set  the  fashion 
in  things  military  to  Europe  during  the  past  thirty 
years.  But  I  think  that  most  of  those  who  had 
hoped  to  learn  from  it  were  disappointed. 

The  German  authorities  are  still  faithful  to  the 
traditions  of  close  formations  and  centralisation  of 
command  under  fire.  Unbroken  lines  in  the  attack 
are  the  rule,  and  no  divergence  from  the  straight, 
forward  direction,  in  order  to  take  advantage  of 
cover  lying  towards  a  flank,  is  authorised.  The 
increased  destructive  power  given  by  low  trajectory 
to  modern  firearms  does  not  seem  to  be  properly 
understood  by  them.  The  creeping  forward  of 
widely  extended  and  irregularly  advancing  lines 
of  skirmishers,  seizing  every  cover  available  within 
easy  reach,  is  not  favoured ;  and  the  dread  of  the 
effect  of  cavalry  charges  on  the  flanks  of  such 
scattered  formations  still  rules  the  tactics  of  the 
attack.  The  development  of  the  initiative  of  the 


36  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

soldier,  of  his  power  of  acting  for  himself  under 
fire,  is  not  striven  after.  In  steady,  mechanical 
drill  the  German  private  is  still  pre-eminent,  but 
in  wide  extensions  he  is  helpless  without  some- 
one at  his  elbow  to  give  him  orders.  One  of 
the  Prussian  General  Staff — sent  out  as  a  Special 
Service  Officer  —  argued  seriously  with  me  that 
even  when  advancing  over  open  ground  against 
an  entrenched  enemy  armed  with  modern  rifles,  it 
would  be  impossible  to  extend  to  more  than  an 
interval  of  one  pace,  "as  otherwise  the-  captain 
could  not  command  his  company." 

Those  in  high  places  in  Germany  probably 
appreciate  the  lessons  of  the  South  African  cam- 
paign. But  the  difficulty  of  frontal  assaults  in 
close  formations  on  a  well-defended  position,  the 
impossibility  of  battalion  or  company  commanders 
directing  the  attack  in  the  firing  line  at  close  ranges, 
the  necessity  of  training  men  to  act  for  themselves 
when  near  the  enemy,  have  not  struck  home  to  the 
subordinate  grades.  Viewed  in  the  light  of  our 
experiences  in  the  Boer  War  and  on  the  Indian 
Frontier,  their  adherence  to  systems  that  we  have 
proved  disastrous  before  modern  weapons  stamps 
their  tactics  as  antiquated.  "  Entrenching,"  another 
staff  officer  said  to  me,  is  contrary  to  the  spirit 
of  the  German  Army.  Our  regulations  now  force 
us  to  employ  the  spade,  but  our  tradition  will 
always  be  to  trust  to  the  bayonet."  And  I  thought 
of  another  army,  which  also  used  to  have  a  decided 


THE  ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        37 

liking  for  the  same  weapon,  and  which  had  gone 
to  South  Africa  in  the  firm  belief  that  cold  steel 
was  the  only  weapon  for  use  in  war ! 

The  German  officers  were  very  smart  in  their 
bearing  and  dress.  Their  khaki  uniforms  were 
similar  to  ours,  the  coats  well  made;  but  the  clumsy 
cut  of  their  riding  breeches  offends  the  fastidious 
eyes  of  the  horsey  Britisher,  who  is  generally  more 
particular  about  the  fit  of  this  garment  than  any  other 
in  his  wardrobe.  The  product  of  despotic  militarism 
in  a  land  where  the  army  is  supreme  and  the  civilian 
is  despised,  the  German  officers  are  full  of  the  pride 
of  caste.  In  China  they  were  scarcely  inclined  to 
regard  those  of  the  other  allied  troops  as  equals. 
The  iron  discipline  of  their  army  does  not  encour- 
age intercourse  between  the  various  ranks.  The 
friendly  association  of  English  officers  with  their 
men  in  sports  is  inexplicable  to  them ;  and  that  a 
private  should  excel  his  superior  in  any  pastime  is 
equivalent,  in  their  opinion,  to  the  latter  at  once 
forfeiting  the  respect  of  his  subordinate.  When  a 
team  of  British  officers  in  Tientsin  were  training 
for  a  tug-of-war  against  those  of  the  Pekin  garrison 
in  the  assault-at-arms  at  the  Temple  of  Heaven, 
they  used  to  practise  with  a  team  of  heavy  non- 
commissioned officers.  A  German  captain  said  to 
a  British  subaltern  who  was  taking  part : 

"Is  it  possible  that  you  allow  your  soldiers  to 
compete  against  officers  even  in  practice  ?  " 

"  Certainly,"  replied  the  Englishman. 


38  THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

"  But  of  course  you  always  beat  them  ?  " 

"  Not  at  all,"  was  the  answer.  "  On  the  contrary, 
they  generally  beat  us." 

"  But  surely  that  is  a  mistake,"  said  the  scandalised 
Prussian.  "They  must  in  that  case  inevitably  lose 
all  respect  for  you."  And  nothing  could  convince 
him  that  it  was  not  so. 

As  the  German  military  officer  does  not  as  a  rule 
travel  much  abroad,  the  realisation  of  England's 
predominance  beyond  the  seas  seemed  to  come  on 
those  in  China  almost  as  a  surprise.  One  remarked 
to  a  member  of  the  staff  of  our  Fourth  Brigade  : 

"  Our  voyage  out  here  has  brought  home  to  most 
of  us  for  the  first  time  how  you  English  have  laid 
your  hands  on  all  parts  of  the  earth  worth  having. 
In  every  port  we  touched  at  since  we  left  Germany, 
everywhere  we  coaled,  we  found  your  flag  flying. 
Gibraltar,  Malta,  Aden,  Colombo,  Singapore,  Hong 
Kong— all  British." 

"  Yes,"  added  another,  "  we  have  naturally  been 
accustomed  to  regard  our  own  country  as  the 
greatest  in  the  world.  But  outside  it  we  found 
our  language  useless.  Yours  is  universal.  I  had 
said  to  myself  that  Port  Said,  at  least,  is  not  British  ; 
but  there,  too,  your  tongue  is  the  chief  medium  of 
intercourse.  Here  in  China,  even  the  coolies  speak 
English,  or  what  they  intend  to  be  English." 

The  German  organisation — perfect,  perhaps,  for 
Europe,  where  each  country  is  a  network  of  roads 
and  railways — was  not  so  successful  in  China.  For 


FRENCH   COLONIAL   INFANTRY   MARCHING   THROUGH   THE 
FRENCH   CONCESSION,    TIENTSIN 


GERMAN   OFFICERS  WELCOMING   FIELD-MARSHAL  COUNT   VON   WALDERSEE 
AT  THE   RAILWAY   STATION,   TIENTSIN 


38 


THE   ALLIED  ARMIES   IN   CHINA        39 

the  first  time  the  leading  military  nation  was  brought 
face  to  face  with  the  difficulties  involved  in  the 
despatch  of  an  expedition  across  the  sea  and  far 
from  the  home  base.  And  its  mistakes  were  not 
few.  Their  contingent  found  themselves  at  first 
devoid  of  transport  and  dependent  on  the  kindness 
of  the  other  armies  for  means  to  move  from  the 
railway.  One  projected  expedition  had  to  be  long 
delayed  because  the  German  troops  could  not 
advance  for  this  reason,  until  the  English  at 
length  furnished  them  with  the  necessary  trans- 
port. The  enormous  waggons  they  brought  with 
them  were  useless  in  a  country  where  barrows  are 
generally  the  only  form  of  wheeled  transport 
possible  on  the  very  narrow  roads.  Their  know- 
ledge of  horse-mastership  was  not  impressive,  their 
animals  always  looking  badly  kept  and  ill-fed. 

The  first  German  troops  despatched  to  China 
were  curiously  clothed.  Their  uniform  consisted 
of  ill-fitting  tunics  and  trousers  made  of  what 
looked  like  coarse,  bright  yellow  sacking,  with 
black  leather  belts  and  straw  hats  shaped  like 
those  worn  by  our  Colonials,  the  broad  brim  caught 
up  on  one  side  and  fastened  by  a  metal  rosette 
of  the  German  colours.  Later  on  all  were  clothed 
in  regular  khaki,  and  wore  helmets  somewhat 
similar  to  the  British  pattern,  but  with  wider 
brims.  The  square  portion  covering  the  back  of 
the  neck  was  fastened  by  hinges,  so  that  the 
helmet  was  not  tilted  over  the  wearer's  eyes  when 


40  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

he  lay  down  to  fire,  which  is  the  great  disadvantage 
of  our  style  of  headgear.  Some  of  the  officers 
wore  silver  sashes  and  belts  which  looked  out  of 
place  on  khaki,  the  embodiment  of  severe  simplicity 
in  campaigning  dress. 

The  physique  of  the  German  soldiers  was  very 
good,  but  they  were  members  of  a  comparatively 
small  contingent  picked  from  an  enormous  army. 
To  those  used  to  the  smart  and  upright  bearing  of 
the  British  private  their  careless  and  slouching  gait 
seemed  slovenly.  But  on  parade  they  moved  like 
automatons.  A  curious  phase  in  the  relations  of 
the  Allies  was  the  intimacy  which  prevailed  between 
the  men  of  the  French  and  German  troops.  In  the 
French  Concession  numbers  of  them  were  to  be 
constantly  seen  fraternising  together,  strolling  arm- 
in-arm  in  the  streets,  or  drinking  in  the  cafes.  This 
was  chiefly  owing  to  the  fact  that  many  in  either 
army  could  speak  the  language  of  the  other.  But 
this  intimacy  did  not  extend  to  the  commissioned 
ranks. 

The  vast  increase  in  their  mercantile  marine  of 
late  years  enabled  the  Germans  to  transport  their 
troops  in  their  own  vessels.  The  Russians,  on  the 
other  hand,  were  frequently  forced  to  employ  British 
ships,  although  the  bulk  of  their  forces  in  North 
China  did  not  come  from  Europe  by  sea,  but  was 
furnished  by  the  Siberian  Army. 

The  German  Navy  took  a  prominent  part  in  the 
China  imbroglio.  The  Iltis  was  well  to  the  fore 


THE   ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        41 

in  the  bombardment  of  the  Taku  forts  by  the  gun- 
boats in  the  Peiho.  In  the  assault  by  the  storming 
parties  from  the  Allied  Fleet  130  German  sailors 
shared,  and  lost  6  killed  and  1 5  wounded ;  200 
more  accompanied  Seymour's  column  on  the  ad- 
vance to  Pekin.  The  Navy  of  the  Fatherland 
possesses  the  immense  advantage  of  being  very 
modern  and  homogeneous,  and  is  consequently 
quite  up  to  date.  Even  at  its  present  strength  it 
is  a  formidable  fighting  machine.  If  the  Kaiser's 
plans  are  realised,  and  it  is  increased  to  the  size  he 
aims  at,  Germany  will  play  a  prominent  role  in  any 
future  naval  complications. 

English  officers  are  frequently  accused  of  a  lack 
of  interest  in  their  profession  from  not  acquainting 
themselves  with  the  problems  which  arise  in  con- 
temporary campaigns,  the  course  of  which  many 
persons  believe  that  they  do  not  follow.  But  we 
found  a  singular  want  of  knowledge  of  the  history 
and  events  of  the  South  African  campaign  among 
the  commissioned  grades  of  the  Allied  Armies. 
I  understood  the  crass  ignorance  of  Continental 
peoples  with  regard  to  the  Boer  War  after  a  con- 
versation with  a  foreign  staff  officer.  I  had  asked 
him  what  he  thought  had  been  the  probable  strength 
of  the  Republican  forces  at  the  beginning  of  the 
campaign. 

"Ah,  that  I  know  precisely,"  he  replied.  "I 
have  heard  it  from  an  officer  in  our  army,  now 
in  China,  who  served  with  the  Boers.  I  can  state 


42  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

positively  on  his  authority  that  your  antagonists 
were  never  able  to  put  into  the  field,  either  at  the 
beginning  of  the  war  or  at  any  other  time,  more 
than  30,000  men.  The  total  populations  of  both 
States  could  not  produce  any  greater  number 
capable  of  carrying  a  rifle." 

"And  how  many  do  you  think  they  have  in  the 
field  now  ?"  I  asked.  This  was  in  August,  1901. 

"  About  25,000." 

''But  surely,"  I  argued,  "after  nearly  two  years 
of  fighting  their  losses  must  amount  to  more  than 
5,000  between  killed,  wounded,  and  captured." 

"  Not  at  all.     Perhaps  not  even  that." 

"Then  you  apparently  do  not  know,"  I  said, 
"  that  we  have  about  30,000  or  40,000  prisoners 
or  surrendered  men  in  St.  Helena,  South  Africa, 
Ceylon,  and  India." 

"  Oh,  but  you  have  not,"  he  said,  with  a  politely 
incredulous  smile  ;  "  two  or  three  thousand  at  most. 
In  our  army  we  are  not  ignorant  of  the  course  of 
the  campaign.  We  read  our  newspapers  carefully." 

I  ceased  to  wonder  at  the  ignorance  of  his 
nation  when  he,  a  Staff  and  Special  Service  Officer, 
was  so  ill-informed. 

The  French  Army  in  China  suffered  some  loss  of 
prestige  in  the  beginning  through  their  first  contin- 
gent, composed  of  Infanterie  Coloniale  and  others 
sent  up  from  I* Indo-Chine.  Long  service  in  un- 
healthy tropical  climates  had  rendered  the  men 
debilitated  and  fever-stricken.  They  were  by  no 


43 

means  fair  samples  of  the  French  soldier,  and 
certainly  not  up  to  the  standard  of  the  troops  which 
came  out  later  from  France.  The  Zouaves  and 
Chasseurs  d'Afrique,  particularly,  were  excellent. 
Both  are  crack  corps,  and  were  much  admired, 
the  physique  of  the  men  being  very  good.  The 
latter  were  fine  specimens  of  European  cavalry, 
good  riders,  well  mounted ;  but  their  horses  seemed 
too  heavily  weighted,  especially  for  service  in  hot 
climates. 

The  infantry  were  weighed  down  by  an  extra- 
ordinarily heavy  pack,  which  they  carried  on  nearly 
all  duties — mounting  guard,  marching,  even  in 
garrison.  They  were  trained  in  the  same  obsolete 
close  formations  as  the  Germans ;  but,  with  the 
traditional  aptitude  for  loose  fighting  which  dates 
from  the  days  of  Napoleon's  tirailleurs,  they  can 
adapt  themselves  much  more  rapidly  to  extended 
order. 

The  French  officers,  though  not  so  well  turned 
out  as  the  Germans,  were  much  more  friendly  and 
agreeable.  There  was  a  good  deal  of  intercourse 
between  them  and  the  Britishers.  Their  manner 
of  maintaining  discipline  was  very  different  to  our 
ideas  on  the  subject.  I  have  seen  one  of  them 
box  the  ears  of  his  drunken  orderly  who  had 
assaulted  the  Indian  servant  of  an  English  officer, 
and  who,  considering  himself  aggrieved  at  being 
reprimanded  by  his  master,  had  staggered  up  to 
him  to  tell  him  so. 


44  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

The  training  and  organisation  of  the  French 
Army  has  immensely  improved  since  the  disastrous 
campaign  of  1870.  A  soldier  serves  first  in  the 
Active  Army,  then  in  the  Reserve  of  the  Active 
Army,  where  he  is  called  up  for  training  somewhat 
on  the  lines  of  our  Militia.  He  is  then  passed 
into  the  Territorial  Army,  where  he  is  not  allowed 
to  forget  what  he  has  learned  with  the  colours. 
Finally  he  is  enrolled  in  the  Reserve  of  the  Terri- 
torial Army,  and  is  still  liable  to  be  summoned  to 
defend  his  country  in  emergency.  A  regiment  has 
all  its  equipment  and  stores  in  its  own  keeping ; 
so  that,  when  suddenly  ordered  on  active  service, 
there  is  no  rush  to  indent  upon  the  Commissariat 
or  Ordnance  Departments.  Its  reservists  join  at 
regimental  headquarters,  where  they  find  every- 
thing ready  for  them,  and  take  their  places  as 
though  they  had  never  quitted  the  colours.  In 
marching  powers,  at  least,  no  troops  in  Europe 
surpass  the  French ;  and  legs  are  almost  as  useful 
as  arms  in  modern  warfare,  where  wide  flanking 
dttours  and  extended  movements  will  be  the  rule 
in  future. 

France's  long  experience  of  colonies  and  wars 
beyond  the  sea  rendered  the  organisation  and  fitting 
out  of  her  expeditionary  force  an  easier  task  than 
some  other  nations  found  it.  The  men  were  always 
cheerful ;  and  the  French  soldier  is  particularly  handy 
at  bivouacking  and  fending  for  himself  on  service. 

The    Russian    troops    were    composed    of    big, 


THE   ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        45 

heavy,  rather  fleshy  men.  Unintelligent  and  slow, 
for  the  most  part,  they  were  determined  fighters, 
but  seemed  devoid  of  the  power  of  initiative  or 
of  thinking  for  themselves.  I  doubt  if  the  Mus- 
covite soldier  is  much  more  advanced  than  his 
Crimean  predecessor.  The  men  of  the  Siberian 
army  may  be  best  described  as  cheerful  savages, 
obedient  under  an  iron  discipline,  but  not  averse 
to  excesses  when  not  under  the  stern  hand  of 
authority,  especially  when  their  blood  has  been 
heated  by  fighting.  The  great  power  of  the 
Russian  soldier  lies  in  his  wonderful  endurance 
under  privations  that  few  other  European  troops 
could  support.  I  should  be  sorry  to  offer  English- 
men the  meagre  fare  on  which  he  manages  to  exist. 
His  commissariat  rations  were  anything  but  lavish 
in  China,  and  had  to  be  supplemented  by  the 
men  themselves  by  foraging.  Yet  those  whom  I 
saw  in  North  China  and  Manchuria  looked  well  fed 
and  almost  fat. 

Their  respect  for,  and  faith  in,  their  officers  is 
admirable.  Their  religion  is  a  living  force  to  their 
simple  natures.  Once,  in  Newchwang,  in  Manchuria, 
I  passed  a  small  Russian  church  in  which  a  number 
of  their  troops  were  attending  a  Mass  of  the 
gorgeous  Greek  ritual.  Their  rifles  were  piled 
outside  under  the  charge  of  a  sentry.  Helmet  in 
hand  he  was  devoutly  following  the  service  through 
the  open  window,  crossing  himself  repeatedly  and 
joining  in  the  prayers  of  the  congregation  inside. 


46  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

I  am  afraid  that  such  a  sight  would  be  very  rarely 
seen  at  a  church  parade  in  our  army. 

Of  the  courage  of  the  Russians  there  can  be  no 
doubt.  Their  behaviour  during  the  stern  fighting 
around  Tientsin  was  admirable.  The  European 
settlements  owed  their  preservation  largely  to  the 
timely  reinforcements  which  arrived  from  Port 
Arthur  at  a  time  of  deadly  peril.  When  Admiral 
Seymour  started  on  his  desperate  attempt  to  relieve 
the  Legations,  he  left  behind  at  Tientsin  a  small 
number  of  British  sailors  and  marines  under  Cap- 
tain Bayly,  H.M.S.  Aurora,  with  orders  to  hold  the 
town,  so  that  his  column,  if  defeated,  might  have 
some  place  to  fall  back  on.  When,  after  his  depar- 
ture, the  Concessions  were  suddenly  assailed,  the 
commanding  officers  of  the  other  Allies  were  of 
opinion  that  the  defence  of  the  settlements  was 
hopeless,  and  advocated  a  retirement  on  Taku. 
Captain  Bayly  pointed  out  the  peril  to  which  the 
Relieving  Column  would  be  exposed  if  repulsed 
and  forced  to  fall  back  only  to  find  Tientsin  in  the 
hands  of  the  Chinese.  His  remonstrances  had  no 
effect.  Then  the  dauntless  sailor,  with  true  British 
grit,  declared  that  the  others  might  go  if  they 
wished.  He  had  been  ordered  to  remain  in  Tient- 
sin, and  remain  he  would.  He  would  not  desert 
his  admiral  even  if  left  alone  to  hold  the  town 
with  his  handful  of  Britishers.  I  have  it  on  his  own 
authority  that  the  Russian  commander  was  the  first 
to  applaud  his  resolution  and  declare  that  he  and 


THE   ALLIED  ARMIES   IN   CHINA        47 

his  men  would  stay  with  the  English  to  the  end. 
His  action  turned  the  scale,  and  all  remained  to 
defend  Tientsin  and  save  Seymour's  gallant  but 
unfortunate  column. 

Though  the  Russian  officers  exceed  even  the 
Germans  in  the  severity  with  which  they  treat 
their  men,  there  is,  nevertheless,  more  of  a  spirit 
of  comradeship  existing  between  the  higher  and 
lower  ranks.  This  is  truer,  perhaps,  of  the  Euro- 
pean army  than  the  Siberian,  which  was  more 
employed  in  the  China  campaign,  and  is  inferior 
to  the  former,  especially  the  splendid  Guards  corps. 
The  officers  were  fine  men  physically,  but  seemed 
in  military  training  rather  behind  those  of  the  other 
Allies. 

Profiting  by  the  experience  gained  in  their 
previous  campaign  against  China,  the  Japanese 
Army  arrived  well  equipped  in  1900.  As  long  as 
road  or  river  was  available,  their  transport  system 
of  carts  and  boats  was  excellent ;  but  when  it  came 
to  flying  columns  moving  across  country  the  Indian 
mule  train  was  superior.  Beginning  the  war  in 
white  uniform,  the  disadvantages  of  such  a  con- 
spicuous dress  were  soon  evident,  and  khaki  was 
substituted.  The  men  were  well  clothed,  and 
carried  a  horsehide  knapsack  containing  the  usual 
necessaries  and  an  extra  pair  of  boots. 

The  cavalry,  consisting  as  it  does  of  small  men 
on  undersized  animals,  would  be  of  little  use  in 
shock  tactics.  It  would  be  far  more  useful  con- 


48  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

verted  into  mounted  infantry,  for  their  infantry 
earned  nothing  but  praise.  Small,  sturdy,  easily 
fed,  and  capable  of  enduring  an  extraordinary 
amount  of  hardship,  they  were  ideal  foot  soldiers. 
Recruited  among  an  agricultural  population,  in- 
habitants of  a  mountainous  country,  they  were 
inured  to  toil  and  fatigue.  Under  a  load  that  few 
white  men  could  carry  they  tramped  long  distances, 
arriving  at  the  end  of  the  march  apparently  not 
in  the  least  exhausted.  Their  racial  respect  for 
superiors  has  bred  a  perfect  spirit  of  unquestioning 
discipline.  Their  high  patriotism  and  almost 
fanatical  courage  endow  them  with  an  absolute 
contempt  of  death,  and  their  heroic  bravery  ex- 
torted the  admiration  even  of  such  unfriendly 
critics  as  the  Russians.  Trained  in  German 
methods,  their  army  suffers  from  all  the  defects 
of  the  hide-bound  Teutonic  system.  In  the  attack 
on  some  fortified  villages  held  by  banditti,  after 
Major  Browning's  death  in  a  preliminary  skirmish, 
two  Japanese  companies  advanced  in  line  with  the 
4th  Punjaub  Infantry.  Under  a  fierce  fire  from 
4,000  brigands,  armed  with  Mannlichers  and  en- 
sconced behind  walls,  the  Indian  troops  extended 
to  ten  or  twelve  paces.  The  Japanese  came  on  in 
single  rank,  almost  shoulder  to  shoulder.  They 
lost  four  times  as  many  as  the  Punjaubis,  but  never 
wavered  for  an  instant,  closing  in  mechanically  as 
their  comrades  fell,  and  almost  outstripping  our 
sepoys  in  the  final  charge  that  carried  the  position. 


THE   ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        49 

Though  many  of  their  officers  have  realised  that 
the  day  of  close  formations  is  past,  they  have  not 
sufficient  confidence  in  the  ability  of  their  men  to 
fight  independently  yet ;  while  they  know  that  no 
amount  of  slaughter  will  dismay  them  in  an  attack. 
Besides,  in  China  they  were  anxious  to  blood  them 
well  and  to  show  to  their  European  critics  the 
splendid  fighting  quality  of  their  soldiers,  and 
prove  that  they  were  worthy  to  combat  with  or 
against  any  troops  in  the  world. 

The  organisation,  equipment,  and  material  of  the 
Japanese  Army  leave  little  to  be  desired.  Their 
engineers  and  artillery  are  well  trained,  and  both 
rendered  good  service  to  the  Allies  in  1900.  Their 
Intelligence  Department  had  been  brought  to  a 
high  standard  of  efficiency ;  and  its  perfection 
astonishes  those  who  are  permitted  to  gain  a 
glimpse  of  its  working.  The  whole  East  is  sown 
with  its  spies.  When  the  Legations  were  threatened, 
Japanese  who  had  been  working  at  inferior  trades 
in  Pekin  came  in  and  revealed  themselves  as  military 
officers  who  for  months  or  years  had  been  acquaint- 
ing themselves  with  the  plans,  the  methods,  and  the 
strength  of  China. 

The  discipline  of  Japanese  soldiers  in  small 
things  as  well  as  great  is  admirable.  I  have  often 
watched  crowded  troop-trains  arriving  at  the  Shim- 
bashi  railway  terminus  in  Tokio.  The  men  sat 
quietly  in  their  places  until  the  order  to  leave  the 
carriages  was  given.  Then,  without  noise  or  con- 


50  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

fusion,  they  got  out,  fell  in  on  the  platforms,  piled 
arms,  fell  out,  and  remained  near  their  rifles  without 
chattering ;  indeed,  with  hardly  a  word  except  in  an 
undertone.  Prompt  and  unquestioning  obedience 
in  everything  is  the  motto  of  the  Japanese  soldier. 
Their  courage  at  the  storming  of  Tientsin  city,  on 
the  march  to  the  capital,  and  at  the  capture  of  Pekin 
won  the  admiration  of  all  the  Allies,  and  their 
behaviour  and  self-restraint  in  the  hour  of  victory 
were  equalled  only  by  their  gallantry  in  action. 
No  charges  of  cruelty  to  inoffensive  peasants  or 
women  and  children  could  be  substantiated  against 
them;  and  they  treated  the  conquered  Chinese  with 
great  kindness.  They  employed  their  prisoners  to 
work  for  them  and  paid  them  liberally  for  their 
labour.  Their  conduct  in  garrison  was  admirable. 
Well  armed  and  equipped,  well  officered  and  led,  the 
Japanese  Army  is  now  a  powerful  fighting  machine, 
and  would  prove  a  formidable  enemy  or  a  useful 
ally  in  the  field. 

Throughout  the  campaign  a  remarkable  spirit  of 
comradeship  existed  between  the  Japanese  and  the 
Indian  troops.  The  Gurkhas  were  their  especial 
friends.  So  like  in  appearance  that  it  points  to 
a  common  ancestry  in  the  past,  they  hailed  each 
other  as  relatives,  and  seemed  quite  puzzled  to  find 
no  resemblance  in  the  languages.  This  did  not 
seem  to  slacken  their  friendship;  and  it  was 
amusing  to  see  a  mingled  group  of  the  two  races 


THE  ALLIED  ARMIES   IN   CHINA        51 

chatting  together  in  an  animated  manner,  neither 
understanding  a  word  of  the  other's  tongue. 

The  men  of  the  American  Army  were  equalled 
in  physique  only  by  the  Australian  Contingent 
and  our  Royal  Horse  Artillery.  Their  free-and- 
easy  ideas  on  the  subject  of  discipline,  the  casual 
manner  in  which  a  private  addressed  an  officer, 
astonished  and  shocked  their  Continental  critics. 
I  heard  the  remark  of  a  German  officer  who, 
after  a  slight  acquaintance  with  their  ways,  ex- 
claimed, "  That  an  army  ?  Why,  with  the  Berlin 
Fire  Brigade  I  would  conquer  the  whole  of 
America !  "  The  speech  was  so  typically  German ! 
But  the  men,  accustomed  to  think  and  act  for 
themselves,  were  ideal  individual  fighters ;  and  for 
scouting,  skirmishing,  and  bush-whacking  could  not 
easily  be  surpassed.  Their  troops  in  China  con- 
sisted at  first  mainly  of  marines  and  regiments 
diverted  when  on  their  way  to  the  Philippines,  and 
consequently  were  not  well  equipped  for  a  long 
campaign.  But  soon  after  the  outset  of  the  expe- 
dition all  deficiencies  were  made  good  and  ample 
supplies  were  forthcoming,  their  hospitals  especially 
being  almost  lavishly  furnished  with  all  requirements. 

The  new  American  Army,  like  their  excellent  go- 
ahead  Navy,  is  a  force  to  be  reckoned  with  in  the 
future.  We  hear  much  of  the  effects  of  "  influence" 
in  our  army.  It  is  nothing  compared  to  what  goes 
on  in  the  American.  With  them  to  be  the  near 
connection  of  a  Senator  or  a  prominent  politician 


52  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

is  infinitely  more  advantageous  than  to  be  the  scion 
of  a  ducal  line  or  the  son  of  a  Commander-in-Chief 
with  us. 

If  the  Continental  troops  suffer  from  too  rigid  a 
discipline,  which  destroys  the  power  of  thinking  for 
themselves  in  the  lower  ranks,  the  Americans,  per- 
haps, err  on  the  other  side.  They  are  too  ready 
to  act  on  their  own  responsibility,  to  question  the 
wisdom  of  the  orders  they  receive,  and  act,  instead, 
as  seems  best  to  themselves.  This  was  particularly 
evident  in  the  case  of  the  volunteer  regiments  in 
the  Philippines ;  but  instances  of  it  were  not  want- 
ing among  the  regulars  and  marines  in  North 
China.  Democracy  is  impossible  in  an  army.  But 
the  material  at  the  service  of  the  United  States  is 
unquestionably  magnificent ;  and  when  the  pressure 
of  events  in  the  future  has  called  into  being  and 
welded  together  a  really  large  army  in  America, 
there  are  few  nations  that  can  hope  to  oppose  it 
successfully  in  the  field.  How  rapidly  the  sons  of 
the  Star-spangled  Banner  acquire  the  art  of  war 
was  evidenced  in  Cuba  and  in  the  more  difficult 
and  trying  guerilla  campaign  in  the  Philippines. 
Their  faults  were  those  of  inexperience. 

Of  their  courage  there  can  be  no  doubt.  At  the 
taking  of  Tientsin  city  nearly  a  thousand  American 
infantry  and  marines  served  with  the  British  under 
General  Dorward.  In  a  letter  to  their  commander 
this  officer  warmly  expressed  the  honour  he,  in 
common  with  all  his  men,  felt  in  serving  alongside 


THE   ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        53 

the  American  troops.  In  his  own  words,  "they 
formed  part  of  the  front  line  of  the  British  attack, 
and  so  had  more  than  their  fair  share  of  the  righting. 
The  ready  and  willing  spirit  of  both  officers  and 
men,  their  steady  gallantry  and  power  of  holding  on 
to  exposed  positions,  made  them  soldiers  of  the 
highest  class."  What  greater  praise  could  be  given 
them  ?  And  well  they  deserved  it !  Two  companies 
of  the  Qth  Infantry  (U.S.A.),  attacked  in  front  and 
flank  by  a  merciless  fire,  held  gallantly  to  their 
ground  until  nightfall  with  a  loss  of  half  their 
number  in  killed  and  wounded,  including  their 
brave  leader,  Colonel  Liscum,  who  met  a  hero's 
death  at  the  head  of  his  men.  In  all  the  actions 
of  the  campaign  the  American  troops  distinguished 
themselves  by  conspicuous  bravery;  and  the  British 
recognised  with  pride  and  pleasure  the  gallantry  of 
their  cousins.  May  we  always  fight  shoulder  to 
shoulder  with,  but  never  against,  them ! 

Great  camaraderie  existed  between  the  Ameri- 
cans and  the  English  troops.  The  sons  of  the 
Stars  and  Stripes  amply  repaid  the  disdain  of  the 
Continental  officers  with  a  contempt  that  was  almost 
laughable.  They  classified  the  Allies  as  white  men 
and  "  Dagoes."  The  former  were  the  Americans 
and  the  British,  the  latter  the  other  European  con- 
tingents. They  distinguished  between  them  though, 
and  the  terms  "  Froggie  Dago,"  "  Sauerkraut 
Dago,"  "Macaroni  Dago,"  and  "Vodki  Dago" 


54 

left  little  doubt  in  the  hearer's  mind  as  to  which 
nationality  was  meant. 

I  heard  a  good  story  of  an  encounter  between  a 
young  English  subaltern  and  an  American  in  North 
China.  I  fancy  the  same  tale  is  told  of  a  Colonial 
in  South  Africa ;  but  it  is  good  enough  to  bear 
repetition.  The  very  youthful  Britisher,  chancing 
to  pass  a  Yankee  soldier  who  was  sitting  down  and 
made  no  motion  to  rise,  considered  himself  affronted 
at  the  private's  failure  to  salute  him.  He  turned 
back  indignantly  and  addressed  the  offender. 

"  Look  here,  my  man,  do  you  know  who  I  am  ?  " 

"  No — o — o,"  drawled  the  American. 

"Well,  I'm  a  British  officer." 

"  Air  ye  naow  ?  "  was  the  reply.  "  Waal,  sonny, 
you've  got  a  soft  job.  See  you  don't  get  drunk 
and  lose  it." 

The  subaltern  walked  on. 

Of  the  Italian  Expeditionary  Force,  which  was 
not  numerically  very  strong,  I  saw  little  ;  but  all 
spoke  well  of  them.  The  famous  Bersagliere,  the 
cocks'  plumes  fluttering  gaily  in  their  tropical 
helmets,  were  smart,  sturdy  soldiers. 

I  regret  never  having  had  an  opportunity  of 
seeing  the  contingent  which  Holland,  not  to  be 
outdone  by  the  other  European  Powers,  despatched 
to  the  East.  This  nation  was  also  determined  to 
show  its  power  to  the  world.  So  a  Dutch  Expe- 
ditionary Corps  was  equipped  and  sent  out.  It 
consisted  of  a  sergeant  and  ten  men. 


THE   ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        55 

The  Indian  Field  Force  was  a  revelation  to 
Europe.  Friend  and  foe  realised  for  the  first  time 
that  in  the  Indian  army  England  has  a  reserve  of 
immense  value.  While  our  Continental  rivals 
fancied  that  our  hands  were  tied  by  the  South 
African  war,  and  that  we  could  take  no  part  in  the 
Chinese  complication,  they  were  startled  to  see 
how,  without  moving  a  soldier  from  Great  Britain, 
we  could  put  into  the  field  in  the  farthest  quarter 
of  the  globe  a  force  equal  to  any  and  superior  to 
most.  It  was  mobilised  and  despatched  speedily 
and  without  a  hitch.  The  vessels  for  its  transport 
were  all  available  from  the  lines  that  ply  from 
Calcutta  and  Bombay,  and  no  ship  was  needed 
from  England.  The  bluejackets  and  marines  with 
half  a  battalion  of  the  Royal  Welch  Fusiliers, 
already  on  the  spot,  and  two  batteries  with  some 
Engineers  were  all  the  white  troops  we  had  until 
gallant  Australia  sent  her  splendid  little  contingent 
as  an  earnest  of  what  she  could  and  would  do  if 
required. 

Previous  to  the  expedition  of  1900,  the  Indian 
army  was  never  allowed  to  engage  in  war  without 
a  strong  backing  of  British  troops.  And  even  its 
own  officers  scarcely  dared  to  allow  themselves  to 
believe  that  without  such  leavening  their  men 
could  successfully  oppose  a  European  army.  But 
now  that  they  have  seen  them  contrasted  with  the 
pick  of  Continental  soldiers,  they  know  that  they 
could  confidently  lead  their  Sikhs,  Gurkhas, 


56  THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

Rajputs,  Pathans,  or  Punjaubis  against  the  men 
of  any  other  nation.  Not  only  is  the  Indian 
army  as  well  equipped  and  organised  as  any  it 
could  now  be  called  upon  to  face,  but  also  the  fight- 
ing races  of  our  Eastern  Empire,  led  by  their 
British  officers,  are  equal  to  any  foe.  The  despe- 
rate battles  of  the  Sikh  War,  when,  as  in  the  fierce 
struggle  of  Chillianwallah,  victory  often  hung 
wavering  in  the  balance,  the  determined  resistance 
of  the  mutinous  troops  in  1857,  show  that  skilful 
leadership  is  all  that  our  sepoys  need  to  enable 
them  to  encounter  the  best  soldiers  of  any  nation. 

India  is  a  continent — not  a  country — composed 
of  many  races  that  differ  far  more  than  European 
nationalities.  A  Russian  and  an  Englishman,  a 
Swede  and  an  Italian  are  nearer  akin,  more  alike 
in  appearance,  manners,  and  modes  of  thought  than 
a  Gurkha  and  a  Pathan,  a  Sikh  and  a  Mahratta, 
a  Rajput  and  a  Madrassi.  It  follows  that  the 
fighting  value  of  all  these  various  races  of  India  is 
not  the  same.  No  one  would  seek  among  the 
Bengali  babus  or  the  Parsees  of  Bombay  for 
warriors.  The  Madras  sepoy,  though  his  prede- 
cessors helped  to  conquer  India  for  British  rule, 
has  fallen  from  his  high  estate  and  is  no  longer 
regarded  as  a  reliable  soldier.  Yet  the  wisdom  of 
the  policy  which  relegated  him  of  late  years  alto- 
gether to  the  background  during  war  may  be 
questioned.  For  the  Madras  sappers  and  miners, 
who  alone  of  all  the  Madras  army  have  been  con- 


THE   ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        57 

stantly  employed,  have  always  proved  satisfactory. 
But  the  fiat  has  gone  forth  ;  and  the  Madrassi  will 
be  gradually  replaced  even  in  his  own  presidency 
by  the  men  of  the  more  martial  races  of  the  North. 
The  Mahratta,  who  once  struck  terror  throughout 
the  length  and  breadth  of  Hindustan,  is  considered 
by  some  critics  to  be  no  longer  useful  as  a  fighting 
man.  But  they  forget  that  not  so  long  ago  in  the 
desperate  battles  near  Suakin,  when  even  British 
troops  gave  back  before  the  mad  rushes  of  fanati- 
cal Dervishes,  the  28th  Bombay  Pioneers  saved  a 
broken  square  from  imminent  destruction  by  their 
steadfast  bravery.  And  they  were  Mahrattas  then. 
Of  the  excellence  of  the  gallant  warrior  clans  of 
Rajputana,  of  the  fierce  Pathans  inured  to  fighting 
from  boyhood,  of  the  sturdy,  cheerful,  little 
Gurkhas,  the  steady,  long-limbed  Sikhs,  none  can 
doubt.  Hard  to  conquer  were  they  in  the  past  ; 
splendid  to  lead  to  battle  now.  To  Lord  Roberts 
is  chiefly  due  the  credit  of  welding  together  the 
Indian  army  and  making  it  the  formidable  fighting 
machine  it  is. 

One  great  factor  of  its  efficiency  is  the  excellence 
of  its  British  officers.  Early  placed  in  a  position 
of  responsibility,  they  rapidly  learn  to  rely  on 
themselves  and  act,  if  need  be,  on  their  own 
initiative.  In  a  British  regiment  an  officer  may 
serve  twenty  years  without  commanding  more  than 
a  company ;  whereas  the  Indian  army  subaltern, 
before  he  has  worn  a  sword  three  years,  may  find 


58  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

himself  in  command  of  his  battalion  on  field-days, 
in  manoeuvres,  sometimes  even  in  war.  In  the 
stern  fighting  at  the  Malakand  in  the  beginning  of 
the  Tirah  campaign,  one  Punjaub  regiment  was 
commanded  by  a  subaltern,  who  acquitted  himself 
of  his  difficult  task  with  marked  ability.  Unlike 
the  system  of  promotion  that  exists  in  the  British 
army,  the  English  officers  of  the  native  corps 
attain  the  different  grades  after  a  certain  number 
of  years'  service — nine  for  captain,  eighteen  for 
major,  twenty-six  for  lieutenant-colonel — and  may 
occupy  any  position  in  their  regiments  irrespective 
of  the  rank  they  hold. 

An  Indian  infantry  battalion  consists  of  eight 
companies,  each  under  a  native  officer,  termed  a 
subhedar,  with  a  jemadar  or  lieutenant  to  assist 
him.  He  is  responsible  for  the  discipline  and  in- 
terior economy  of  his  company.  The  senior  native 
officer  is  known  as  the  subhedar-major.  Instead  of 
the  terms  lance-corporal,  corporal,  sergeant,  and 
sergeant-major,  lance- naik,  naik,  havildar,  and 
havildar-major  are  the  names  of  the  correspond- 
ing grades. 

The  British  officers  practically  form  the  staff  of 
the  regiment.  The  former  number  of  eight  has 
been  recently  increased  to  eleven,  twelve,  and 
thirteen,  according  to  the  presidency  to  which  the 
corps  belongs,  those  of  the  Punjaub — being  nearest 
the  danger  zone  of  frontier  wars  and  threatened 
invasion  —  possessing  the  largest  number.  The 


THE  ALLIED   ARMIES   IN   CHINA        59 

eight  companies  are  grouped  in  four  double  com- 
panies— the  double  company  commander  (a  British 
officer)  having  almost  complete  control  of  his  unit. 
The  commanding  officer  of  the  battalion  mainly 
restricts  himself  to  seeing  that  the  training  of  each 
portion  of  the  regiment  is  identical  and  efficient. 
Each  corps  possesses  a  commanding  officer,  four 
double  company  commanders,  an  adjutant,  a 
quartermaster,  and  the  remainder  are  known  as 
double  company  officers. 

The  organisation  of  a  native  cavalry  regiment  is 
very  similar,  the  terms  squadron  and  squadron- 
commander  replacing  double  company  and  double 
company  commander.  In  most  of  the  corps  the 
sowar,  as  the  Indian  cavalry  private  is  called — sepoy 
being  employed  to  denote  an  infantryman  —  is 
usually  the  owner  of  his  horse ;  and  direct  com- 
missions to  native  gentlemen  are  of  more  frequent 
occurrence  in  the  cavalry  than  in  the  infantry. 
Regimental  transport  consists  of  baggage-ponies 
or  mules,  so  that  an  Indian  mounted  corps  is 
particularly  mobile. 

Foreign  officers  in  North  China  at  first  made 
light  of  our  Indian  soldiers ;  but  they  were  not 
those  who  had  seen  them  fight  in  the  early  days 
of  the  campaign.  For  one  arm,  however,  there 
was  nothing  but  praise.  All  agreed  that  our  native 
cavalry  was  excellent.  Even  German  officers  ac- 
knowledged that  in  smartness,  horsemanship,  and 
efficiency  it  could  not  easily  be  surpassed.  The 


60  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

work  done  by  the  ist  Bengal  Lancers  in  the  advance 
on  Pekin  and  afterwards  could  not  be  underrated. 
With  the  exception  of  a  few  Cossacks  and  Japanese, 
they  were  the  only  mounted  troops  available  at 
first.  They  were  in  constant  demand  to  accompany 
columns  of  Continental  troops,  and  they  won  the 
admiration  of  all  the  foreign  officers  with  whom 
they  were  brought  in  contact.  In  fact,  the  only 
persons  who  failed  to  appreciate  their  merits  were 
the  Tartar  horsemen  who  ventured  to  oppose  them 
in  the  march  on  the  capital.  Their  opinion  is  not 
recorded,  but  I  think  that  it  would  not  be  fit  for 
publication  except  in  an  expunged  and  mutilated 
form.  The  3rd  Bombay  Light  Cavalry — as  good 
a  regiment  as  any  that  Bengal  can  show — won 
many  encomiums  for  its  smartness  from  all  who 
saw  its  squadrons  at  Tientsin,  Shanghai,  or  Shan- 
haikwan. 

But  Indian  officers  were  at  first  surprised  and 
puzzled  at  the  unflattering  criticisms  passed  on  our 
native  infantry.  Those  who  had  seen  our  sepoys 
in  many  a  hard-fought  struggle  on  the  frontier 
could  not  understand  the  frequent  remarks  of  foreign 
officers,  that  "  our  men  were  very  unequal." 

"Some  of  them,"  they  said,  "are  tall,  well-built, 
and  powerful,  and  should  make  good  soldiers ;  but 
others  are  old,  feeble,  and  decrepit.  We  have  seen 
in  the  streets  of  Tientsin  many  who  could  not 
support  the  weight  of  a  rifle."  But  it  was  soon 
discovered  that  these  critics  failed  to  comprehend 


THE   ALLIED  ARMIES   IN   CHINA        61 

the  distinction  between  fighting  men  and  followers, 
since  in  China  both  were  clad  somewhat  alike. 
The  coolie  corps,  bheesties,  syces,  and  dhoolie- 
bearers  were  all  dressed  in  khaki ;  and  Continental 
officers  were  for  a  long  time  under  the  impression 
that  these  were  soldiers.  The  error  was  not  un- 
natural, and  it  accounted  for  the  unfavourable 
reports  on  the  Indian  troops  which  appeared  in 
many  European  journals.  But  those  who  under- 
stood the  difference  were  struck  by  the  fine  physique 
and  excellent  training  of  our  native  army.  When 
we  compared  our  Sikhs,  Pathans,  Gurkhas,  and 
Punjaubis  with  the  men  of  most  of  the  Allied 
forces,  we  recognised  that,  led  by  British  officers, 
they  would  render  a  good  account  of  themselves 
if  pitted  against  any  troops  in  the  world.  And  our 
sepoys  return  to  India  filled  with  immeasurable 
contempt  for  the  foreign  contingents  they  have 
seen  in  China.  As  the  ripples  caused  by  a  stone 
thrown  into  a  lake  spread  over  the  water,  so  their 
opinion  will  radiate  through  the  length  and  breadth 
of  the  land ;  and  this  unexpected  lesson  of  the 
campaign  will  have  a  far-reaching  and  beneficial 
effect  throughout  our  Eastern  Empire. 

India  is  essentially  a  soldier's  country.  Its  army 
is  practically  always  on  a  war  footing,  the  troops 
near  the  frontier  especially  being  ready  to  move  at 
a  few  hours'  notice.  The  rapid  despatch  of  the 
British  contingent  for  Natal  and  the  China  ex- 
peditionary force  are  object-lessons.  The  peace 


62  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

establishment  of  a  native  regiment  is  greater  than 
the  strength  required  for  active  service.  Hence  on 
mobilisation  no  reserves  have  to  be  called  up  to 
fill  its  ranks ;  recruits  and  sickly  men  can  be  left 
behind,  and  it  marches  with  only  fully  trained  and 
seasoned  soldiers.  In  India  vast  stretches  of 
country  are  available  for  manoeuvres,  which  take 
place  every  winter  on  a  scale  unknown  in  England. 
Not  a  year  passes  without  its  little  war.  In  con- 
sequence, the  training  of  the  troops  is  thorough 
and  practical.  The  establishment  of  gun  and  rifle 
factories  is  all  that  is  needed  to  make  India  abso- 
lutely self-containing.  It  produces  now  all  other 
requisites  of  war.  Ammunition,  clothing,  and  ac- 
coutrements are  manufactured  in  the  country,  and 
it  was  able  to  supply,  not  only  the  needs  of  the 
expedition  in  China,  but  also  many  things  required 
for  the  troops  in  South  Africa. 

To  the  pessimists  in  England  and  the  hostile 
critics  abroad,  who  talk  of  the  possibility  of  another 
mutiny,  the  answer  is  that  a  general  uprising  of  the 
Native  army  can  never  occur  again.  The  number 
of  British  troops  in  India  has  been  more  than 
doubled  since  1857,  and  the  proportion  between 
white  and  coloured  regiments  in  each  large  station 
more  equalised.  The  artillery  is  altogether  in 
English  hands,  with  the  exception  of  the  rank  and 
file  of  a  few  mountain  batteries  and  the  smooth- 
bore guns  maintained  by  native  princes  for  show. 
Communication  has  been  enormously  quickened  by 


THE   ALLIED  ARMIES   IN   CHINA        63 

the  network  of  railways  that  covers  the  country, 
enabling  a  force  to  be  moved  in  two  or  three  days 
to  a  point  where  formerly  as  many  months  were 
required. 

And  the  Indian  army  is  loyal  to  the  core — loyal, 
not  to  the  vague  idea  of  a  far- distant  England, 
not  to  the  vast  impersonal  Sircar*  but  loyal  to 
itself;  loyal  to  its  British  officers,  who,  to  the 
limited  minds  of  the  sepoys,  represent  in  concrete 
form  the  Power  whose  salt  they  eat.  And  those 
officers,  speaking  to  each  in  his  own  tongue — be 
he  Sikh,  Rajput,  or  Dogra — stand  in  the  relation 
of  fathers  to  their  men.  To  them  in  sorrow  or 
perplexity  comes  the  sepoy,  sure  of  sympathy 
or  aid.  In  their  justice  he  reposes  implicit  con- 
fidence. And  as  in  peace  he  relies  on  these  men 
of  alien  race,  so  in  war  do  they  trust  in  him. 
And  the  tales  of  the  struggle  of  the  Guides  round 
Battye's  corpse,  of  the  gallant  Sikhs  who  died 
at  their  post  in  Saragheri,  of  the  men  who  refused 
to  abandon  their  dead  and  dying  officers  in  the 
treachery  of  Maizar,  show  that  our  trust  is  not 
misplaced. 

*  i.e.  Government. 


CHAPTER   IV 
PEKIN 

TIENTSIN  is  but  a  stepping-stone  to  Pekin — 
one  a  mere  modern  growth,  important  only 
in  view  of  the  European  commercial  interests  that 
have  made  it  what  it  is ;  the  other  a  fabled  city 
weird,  mysterious.  The  slowly -beating  heart  of 
the  vast  feeble  Colossus,  that  may  be  pierced  and 
yet  no  agony,  thrills  through  the  distant  members. 
Pekin,  the  object  of  the  veneration  of  every  China- 
man the  world  over.  Pekin,  which  enshrines  the 
most  sacred  temples  of  the  land,  within  whose 
famous  walls  lies  the  marvellous  Forbidden  City, 
the  very  name  of  which  is  redolent  of  mystery ; 
around  it  history  and  fable  gather  and  scarce  may 
be  distinguished,  so  incredible  the  truth,  so  con- 
ceivable the  wildest  conjecture.  The  Mecca  to 
which  turn  the  thoughts  of  every  Celestial.  The 
home  of  the  sacred,  almost  legendary,  Emperor, 
whose  word  is  law  to  the  uttermost  confines  of 
the  land,  and  yet  whose  person  is  not  inviolate 
against  palace  intrigue ;  omnipotent  in  theory, 
powerless  in  reality,  a  ruler  only  in  name.  Wor- 
shipped by  millions  of  his  subjects,  yet  despised 

64 


PEKIN  65 

by  the  least  among  the  mandarins  of  his  court. 
The  meanest  eunuch  in  the  Purple  City  is  not  more 
helpless  than  the  monarch  who  boasts  the  proud 
title  of  Son  of  Heaven. 

Pekin,  the  seat  of  all  power  in  the  land,  whence 
flows  the  deadly  poison  of  corruption  that  saps  the 
empire's  strength ;  the  capital  that  twice  within 
the  last  fifty  years  has  fallen  before  the  avenging 
armies  of  Europe,  and  yet  still  flourishes  like  a 
noxious  weed. 

One  morning  as  the  train  from  Tong-ku  came 
into  Tientsin  Station  and  disgorged  its  usual  crowd 
of  soldiers  of  the  Allied  Forces,  I  stood  on  the 
platform  with  four  other  British  officers,  all  bound 
for  Pekin.  We  established  ourselves  in  a  first- 
class  carriage,  which  was  a  mixture  of  coup6  and 
corridor-car.  The  varied  uniforms  of  our  fellow- 
passengers  no  longer  possessed  any  interest  for 
us ;  and  we  devoted  our  attention  to  the  scenery 
on  each  side  of  the  railway.  From  Tientsin  to 
Pekin  the  journey  occupies  about  five  hours.  The 
line  runs  through  level,  fertile  country,  where  the 
crops  stand  higher  than  a  mounted  man ;  thus 
the  actions  on  the  way  to  the  relief  of  the  Lega- 
tions were  fought  blindfold.  Among  the  giant 
vegetation  troops  lost  direction,  corps  became 
mixed,  and  the  enemy  could  seldom  be  seen.  As 
the  train  ran  on,  the  tops  of  the  tall  stalks  rose 
in  places  above  the  roofs  of  the  carriages,  and 
shut  in  our  view  as  though  we  were  passing 


F 


66  THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

through  a  dense  forest.  Here  and  there  we 
rattled  past  villages  or  an  occasional  temple  almost 
hidden  by  the  high  crops.  There  were  several 
stations  along  the  line ;  the  buildings  solidly  con- 
structed of  stone,  the  walls  loopholed  for  defence. 
On  the  platforms  the  usual  cosmopolitan  crowd 
of  soldiers,  and  Chinamen  of  all  ages  offering  for 
sale  bread,  cakes,  Japanese  beer,  bottles  of  vin 
ordinaire  bought  from  the  French,  grapes,  peaches, 
and  plums  in  profusion.  In  winter  various  kinds 
of  game,  with  which  the  country  teems,  are 
substituted  for  the  fruit.  At  Yangsun  were  a 
number  of  Chasseurs  d'Afrique,  whose  regiment 
was  quartered  in  the  vicinity.  Trains  passed  us ; 
the  carriages  crowded  with  troops  of  all  nations, 
the  trucks  filled  with  horses,  guns  and  military 
stores,  or  packed  with  grinning  Chinamen. 

At  last,  between  the  trees,  glimpses  of  yellow- 
tiled  roofs  flashing  in  the  sunlight  told  us  that 
we  were  nearing  the  capital.  Leaning  from  the 
windows  we  saw,  apparently  stretching  right  across 
the  track,  a  long,  high  wall,  with  buttresses  and 
lofty  towers  at  intervals.  It  was  the  famous  Wall 
of  Pekin.  Suddenly  a  large  gap  seemed  to  open 
in  it ;  the  train  glided  through,  and  we  found 
ourselves  in  the  middle  of  a  large  city  as  we 
slowed  down  alongside  a  platform  on  which  stood 
a  board  with  the  magic  word  "  Pekin."  We  had 
reached  our  journey's  end.  On  the  other  side  of 
the  line  was  a  broad,  open  space,  through  which 


PEKIN  67 

ran  a  wide  road  paved  with  large  stone  flags. 
Over  it  flowed  an  incessant  stream  of  carts,  rick- 
shas, and  pedestrians.  Behind  the  station  ran 
a  long  wall  which  enclosed  the  Temple  of  Heaven, 
where,  after  General  Gaselee's  departure,  the  British 
headquarters  in  Pekin  were  established. 

On  the  platform  we  found  a  half-caste  guide 
waiting  for  us,  sent  to  meet  us  by  friends  in  the 
English  Legation.  Resigning  our  luggage  to  him 
and  directing  him  to  convey  it  to  the  one  hotel 
the  capital  possessed,  we  determined  to  begin  our 
sightseeing  at  once  and  walked  towards  the  gate- 
way of  the  enclosure  in  which  stands  the  Temple 
of  Heaven.  On  entering,  we  found  ourselves  in 
a  large  and  well-wooded  demesne.  Groves  of  tall 
trees,  leafy  rides,  and  broad  stretches  of  turf  made  it 
seem  more  like  an  English  park  than  the  grounds 
of  a  Chinese  temple.  Long  lines  of  tents,  crossed 
lances,  and  picketed  horses  marked  the  camp  of 
a  regiment  of  Bengal  cavalry ;  for  in  the  vast 
enclosure  an  army  might  bivouac  with  ease. 
Here  was  held  the  historic  British  assault-at-arms, 
when  foreign  officers  were  roused  to  enthusiasm 
at  the  splendid  riding  of  our  Indian  cavalry  and 
the  marvellous  skill  of  the  Royal  Horse  Artillery 
as  they  swung  their  teams  at  full  speed  round  the 
marks  in  the  driving  competitions. 

Apropos  of  the  latter  corps  a  story  is  told  of 
Field  -  Marshal  Von  Waldersee's  introduction  to 
them  at  the  first  review  he  held  of  British  troops 


68  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

at  Tientsin.  When  the  horse  gunners  came 
thundering  down  towards  the  saluting  base  in  a 
cloud  of  dust,  their  horses  stretching  to  a  mad 
gallop,  the  guns  bounding  behind  them  like  things 
of  no  weight  but  with  every  muzzle  in  line,  the 
German  Commander-in-Chief  is  said  to  have  burst 
into  admiring  exclamation:  "Splendid!  Marvel- 
lous ! "  he  cried.  As  they  flew  past  the  old  man 
huddled  up  on  his  charger,  he  started  in  surprise 
and  peered  forward. 

"  Donnerwetter ! "  he  exclaimed,  "why,  they 
actually  have  their  guns  with  them ! "  The  pace 
was  so  furious  that  he  had  been  under  the  im- 
pression that  they  were  galloping  past  with  the 
teams  only ;  for  he  had  thought  it  impossible  for 
artillery  to  move  at  such  speed  drawing  their 
field-pieces.  The  other  officers  of  the  Allied 
Armies  were  equally  amazed  at  the  sight. 

"It  is  positively  dangerous !"  said  a  German. 

"  C'est  incroyable !  Ca  ne  peut  pas ! "  cried  an 
excited  Frenchman. 

"  Say,  that'll  show  the  Dagoes  that  they've  got 
something  still  to  learn,"  said  a  pleased  Yankee. 

The  Temple  of  Heaven  consists  of  long,  low 
buildings  of  the  conventional  Chinese  architecture, 
with  wide,  upturned  eaves.  We  found  it  empty 
but  for  a  few  memorial  tablets  of  painted  or  gilded 
wood.  Emerging  through  a  small  gate  and  cross- 
ing a  tiny  marble  bridge,  we  strolled  through  the 
park  to  another  temple,  the  conical  roof  of  which 


PEK1N  69 

rose  above  the  trees.  It  was  known  to  the  British 
troops  in  Pekin  as  the  Temple  of  the  Sun ;  whether 
the  name  is  correct  or  not  I  cannot  say.* 

Passing  the  cavalry  camp  we  came  to  a  flight  of 
steps,  which  led  up  to  a  terrace.  On  ascending  this 
we  found  a  huge  gateway  to  the  left.  We  passed 
through,  and  then,  little  susceptible  as  we  were  to 
artistic  emotions,  we  stopped  and  gazed  in  silent 
admiration  as  the  full  beauty  of  the  building  stood 
revealed.  The  temple,  circular  in  shape,  stands  on 
a  slight  eminence,  surrounded  by  tiers  of  white 
marble  balustrades.  Its  triple  roof,  bright  with 
gleaming  blue  tiles  and  golden  knob,  blazed  in  the 
sun,  the  spaces  between  the  roofs  filled  with  gay 
designs  in  brilliant  colours.  The  walls  were  of 
carved  stone  open-work  with  many  doors.  It  rose, 
a  dream  of  beauty  and  grace,  against  a  dark  green 
background  of  leafy  trees,  the  loveliest  building  in 
Pekin.  Within,  all  was  bare.  An  empty  altar,  a 
painted  tablet,  a  few  broken  gilt  stools  were  all  that 
pillaging  hands  had  spared.  The  massive  bronze 
urns  which  stood  outside,  too  heavy  to  be  carried 
away,  had  lost  their  handles,  wrenched  off  for  the 
mere  value  of  the  metal.  Quitting  the  temple  and 
passing  through  a  door  in  a  low  wall,  we  came  to  a 
broad  open  space,  in  which  stood  a  curious  con- 

*  Lord  Curzon,  in  his  interesting  book,  Problems  of  the  Far  East, 
refers  to  this  building  as  "  The  Temple  of  Heaven  "  and  calls  what 
I  have  described  as  "The  Centre  of  the  Universe"  "The  Altar  of 
Heaven."  He  is  more  likely  to  be  correct  than  the  officers  of  the 
armies  of  occupation,  but  I  give  the  names  which  they  used. 


70  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

struction  which  bears  the  proud  title  of  "  Centre  of 
the  Universe."  Three  circles  of  white  marble  balus- 
trades, one  within  the  other,  rose  up  to  a  paved 
platform,  round  which  were  large  urns.  Here  once 
a  year  the  Emperor  comes  in  state  to  offer  sacrifice 
to  the  manes  of  his  ancestors.  Close  by  was  the 
Temple  of  the  Moon,  in  design  similar  to  that  of 
the  Sun,  but  much  smaller  and  with  only  a  single 
roof. 

This  exhausted  the  sights  of  the  Temple  of 
Heaven.  We  returned  through  the  park  to  the 
railway  station,  where  we  procured  rickshas  to  take 
us  to  the  hotel.  Strong,  active  coolies  whirled  us 
along  over  the  wide,  flagged  road  that  runs  through 
the  Chinese  town.  We  passed  crowds  of  Celestials 
trudging  on  in  the  awful  dust,  springless  Pekin 
carts  drawn  by  sturdy  little  ponies,  an  occasional 
Bengal  Lancer  or  German  Mounted  Infantryman, 
through  streets  of  mean  shops,  the  fronts  hung  with 
gaudy  sign-boards,  until  we  reached  the  wall  of  the 
Tartar  city.  Before  us  stood  the  Chien  Men  Gate, 
the  brick  tower  above  it  roofless  and  shattered  by 
shells,  the  heavy  iron-studded  door  swung  back. 
We  rumbled  through  the  long,  tunnel-like  entrance, 
between  rows  of  low,  one-story  houses,  and  soon 
reached  the  famous  Legation  Street,  the  quarter  in 
which  lie  the  residences  of  the  Foreign  Ministers 
and  the  other  Europeans  in  Pekin.  We  passed 
along  a  wide  road  in  good  repair,  by  gateways  at 
which  stood  Japanese,  French,  and  German  sentries, 


PEKIN  71 

by  the  shattered  ruins  of  the  Hong  Kong  and 
Shanghai  Bank.  All  around  the  Legations  lay 
acres  of  wrecked  Chinese  houses,  torn  by  shells  and 
blackened  by  fire — a  grim  memento  of  the  outrage 
that  had  roused  the  civilised  world  to  arms.  At 
length  we  reached  a  broad  street  leading  from  the 
Ha-ta-man  Gate,  turned  to  the  left  down  it,  and 
drew  up  before  a  small  entrance  in  a  line  of  low, 
one-story  houses.  Above  it  was  a  board  bearing 
the  inscription,  "  Hotel  du  Nord."  Jumping  from 
our  rickshas,  we  paid  off  the  perspiring  coolies, 
and,  walking  across  a  small  courtyard,  were  met  by 
the  proprietor  and  shown  to  our  quarters.  The 
hotel,  which  had  been  opened  shortly  after  the 
relief  of  the  Legations,  consisted  of  a  number  of 
squalid  Chinese  houses,  which  had  been  cleverly 
converted  into  comfortable  dining,  sitting,  and  bed- 
rooms. An  excellent  cuisine  made  it  a  popular 
resort  for  the  officers  of  the  Allies  in  Pekin,  and  we 
found  ourselves  as  well  catered  for  as  we  could  have 
done  in  many  more  pretentious  hostels  in  civilised 
lands. 

A  short  description  of  the  chief  city  of  China 
may  not  be  out  of  place  ;  though  recent  events 
have  served  to  draw  it  from  the  obscurity  that  en- 
shrouded it  so  long.  It  is  singular  among  the 
capitals  of  the  world  for  the  regularity  of  its  out- 
line, owing  to  the  stupendous  walls  which  confine  it. 
These  famous  battlements  are  twenty-five  miles  in 
total  circumference,  and  the  long  lines,  studded  with 


72  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

lofty  towers  and  giant  buttresses,  present  an  im- 
posing spectacle  from  the  exterior. 

Pekin  is  divided  into  two  separate  and  distinct 
cities,  the  Tartar  and  the  Chinese.  The  latter, 
adjoining  the  southern  wall  of  the  former,  is  in 
shape  a  parallelogram,  its  longer  sides  running 
east  and  west.  It  grew  as  an  excrescence  to  the 
capital  of  the  victorious  Manchus,  and  was  in 
ancient  times  inhabited  by  the  conquered  Chinese 
as  the  Tartar  City  was  by  the  superior  race,  though 
now  this  line  of  demarcation  is  lost  in  the  practical 
merging  of  the  two  nationalities  as  regards  the 
lower  orders.  The  wall  of  the  Chinese  city  is 
thirty  feet  high  and  twenty  feet  thick. 

The  Tartar  city,  in  shape  also  a  parallelogram, 
with  the  longer  sides  north  and  south,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  much  more  imposing  wall,  which  if 
vigorously  defended  would  prove  a  truly  formid- 
able obstacle  to  any  army  unprovided  with  a 
powerful  siege  train.  It  is  forty  feet  high,  fifty 
feet  broad  at  the  top,  and  sixty-four  feet  thick  at 
the  base,  and  consists  of  two  masonry  walls,  made 
of  enormous  bricks  as  solid  as  stone,  that  on  the 
external  face  being  twelve  feet  thick,  the  interior 
one  eight  feet,  the  space  between  them  filled  with 
clay,  rammed  in  layers  of  from  six  to  nine  inches.* 
A  practicable  breach  might  be  effected  by  the 
concentrated  fire  of  heavy  siege  guns,  for  shells 

*  These  dimensions  were  given  me  by  Lieutenant  Pearson,  R.E., 
who  had  to  tunnel  the  wall  to  allow  the  passage  of  a  railway  line. 


PEKIN  73 

planted  near  the  top  of  the  wall  would  probably 
bring  down  bricks  and  earth  enough  to  form  a 
ramp.  From  the  outside  seven  gateways  lead  into 
the  Chinese  city,  six  into  the  Tartar,  while  com- 
munication between  the  two  is  maintained  by  three 
more.  They  can  be  closed  by  enormously  thick, 
iron-studded  wooden  gates,  which  in  ordinary  times 
are  shut  at  night.  The  Japanese  effected  an 
entrance  into  the  Tartar  city  by  blowing  in  one 
of  these.  At  the  corners  of  the  walls  and  over 
each  gateway  are  lofty  brick  towers  several  stories 
high,  the  intervals  between  them  being  divided 
by  buttresses.  These  towers  are  comparatively 
fragile,  and  at  the  taking  of  Pekin  those  attacked 
suffered  considerably  from  the  shell  fire  of  the 
field  guns  of  the  Allies.  Outwards  from  the  base 
of  the  walls  a  broad  open  space  is  left. 

The  Tartar  City  is  by  far  the  more  important. 
It  holds  most  of  the  temples,  the  residences  of  the 
upper  and  wealthier  classes,  the  important  build- 
ings and  larger  shops.  In  the  centre  of  it  is  the 
Imperial  city,  in  shape  an  irregular  square,  en- 
closed by  a  high  wall  seven  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, the  top  of  which  is  covered  with  yellow 
tiles.  Here  are  found  the  public  buildings  and 
the  houses  of  the  official  mandarins ;  and  in  its 
heart  lies  the  Purple  or  Forbidden  City,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Emperor  and  his  Court.  All  the 
buildings  inside  the  limits  of  the  Imperial  city  are 
roofed  with  gleaming  yellow  tiles,  that  being  the 


74  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

sacred  colour.  To  the  south-east,  near  the  wall 
of  the  Chinese  city,  lies  the  Legation  quarter, 
where  most  of  the  European  residents  live. 

The  only  high  ground  in  Pekin  consists  of  two 
small  eminences,  just  inside  the  northern  boundary 
of  the  Imperial  city.  One,  facing  the  gateway,  is 
known  as  Coal  Hill.  Tradition  declares  it  to 
consist  of  an  enormous  quantity  of  coal,  accumu- 
lated in  former  times  to  provide  against  a  threat- 
ened siege.  It  is  covered  with  trees,  bushes,  and 
grass.  On  the  summit  is  a  pavilion,  from  which 
an  excellent  view  over  all  Pekin  is  obtained.  At 
one's  feet  the  yellow  roofs  of  the  buildings  in  the 
Imperial  and  Forbidden  cities  blaze  in  the  sun 
like  gold.  To  the  right  is  the  other  small  tree- 
clad  hill,  on  which  stands  the  quaintly  shaped 
Ming  Pagoda.  Below  it,  to  the  right  of  the 
Imperial  city,  lies  a  gleaming  expanse  of  water, 
the  Lotos  Lake,  crossed  by  a  picturesque  white 
marble  bridge,  with  strange,  small,  circular  arches. 
Near  it  is  the  Palace  of  the  Empress- Do  wager. 
To  the  south  of  the  sacred  city  is  the  Legation 
quarter,  where  the  European-looking  buildings  of 
the  residences  of  the  Foreign  Ministers  and  the 
other  alien  inhabitants  seem  curiously  out  of  keep- 
ing with  their  surroundings.  Far  away  the  high, 
many-storied  towers  over  the  gateways  between 
the  Tartar  and  the  Chinese  city  rise  up  from  the 
long  line  of  embattled  wall.  Looking  down  on  it 
from  this  height  Pekin  is  strangely  picturesque, 


PEKIN  75 

with  a  sea  of  foliage  that  surges  between  the 
buildings ;  and  yet  on  descending  into  the  streets 
one  wonders  what  has  become  of  the  trees  with 
which  the  city  seemed  filled.  The  fact  is  that 
they  are  extremely  scattered,  one  in  one  court- 
yard, one  in  another,  and  in  consequence  are 
scarcely  remarked  from  the  level.  The  Palace, 
the  Legations,  and  the  towers  are  the  only  build- 
ings that  stand  up  prominently  among  the  mono- 
tonous array  of  low  roofs,  for  the  houses  are 
almost  invariably  only  one-storied. 

The  Tartar  City  is  pierced  by  broad  roads  running 
at  right  angles  to  the  walls.  From  them  a  net- 
work of  smaller  lanes  leads  off,  usually  extremely 
narrow  and  always  unsavoury,  being  used  as  the 
dumping-ground  of  all  the  filth  and  refuse  of  the 
neighbouring  houses.  The  main  streets  even  are 
unpaved  and  ill-kept.  The  centre  portion  alone  is 
occasionally  repaired  in  a  slovenly  fashion,  apparently 
by  heaping  on  it  fresh  earth  taken  from  the  sides, 
which  have  consequently  become  mere  ditches  eight 
or  nine  feet  below  the  level  of  the  middle  causeway 
and  the  narrow  footpaths  along  the  front  of  the 
houses.  After  heavy  rain  these  fill  with  water  and 
are  transformed  into  rushing  rivers.  Occasionally 
on  dark  nights  a  cart  falls  into  them,  the  horse 
unguided  by  a  sleepy  driver,  and  the  occupants 
are  drowned.  Such  a  happening  in  the  principal 
thoroughfares  of  a  large  and  populous  city  seems 
incredible.  I  could  scarcely  believe  it  until  I  was 


76  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

once  obliged  almost  to  swim  my  pony  across  a  main 
street  with  the  water  up  to  the  saddle -flaps,  and 
this  after  only  a  few  hours'  rain.  A  Chinaman,  by 
the  way,  will  never  rescue  a  drowning  man,  from 
the  superstition  that  the  rescuer  will  always  meet 
with  misfortune  from  the  hand  of  the  one  he  has 
saved. 

The  houses  are  mostly  one  story  high,  dingy 
and  squalid.  The  shops,  covered  with  gaudy  red 
and  gold  sign-boards,  have  little  frontage  but  much 
depth,  and  display  to  the  public  gaze  scarcely  any- 
thing of  the  goods  they  contain.  All  along  the 
principal  streets  peddlers  establish  themselves  on 
the  narrow  side-walks,  spread  their  wares  on  the 
ground  about  them,  and  wait  with  true  Oriental 
patience  for  customers.  The  houses  of  the  richer 
folk  are  secluded  within  courtyards,  and  cannot  be 
seen  from  the  public  thoroughfares. 

On  the  whole,  Pekin  from  the  inside  is  not  an 
attractive  city ;  and  as  the  streets  in  dry  weather  are 
thick  with  dust  that  rises  in  clouds  when  a  wind 
blows,  and  in  wet  are  knee-deep  in  mud  where  not 
flooded,  they  do  not  lend  themselves  to  casual 
strolling.  The  broad  tops  of  the  walls  are  much 
preferable  for  a  promenade.  Access  to  them  is 
gained  by  ramps  at  intervals.  They  are  clean,  not 
badly  paved  though  often  overgrown  with  bushes, 
and  afford  a  good  view  over  the  surrounding  houses, 
and  in  the  summer  offer  the  only  place  where  a 
cooling  breeze  can  be  found. 


PEKIN  77 

Comfortably  installed  in  the  Hotel  du  Nord,  we 
determined  to  devote  our  fir£t  afternoon  in  Pekin 
to  a  visit  to  the  quarter  of  most  pressing,  though 
temporary,  interest,  the  Legations,  on  which  the 
thoughts  of  the  whole  civilised  world  had  been 
concentrated  during  their  gallant  defence  against 
a  fanatical  and  cowardly  foe.  As  the  distance  was 
short,  we  set  out  on  foot.  The  courtyard  of  the 
hotel  opens  on  to  the  long  street  that  runs  through 
the  Tartar  city  from  the  Ha-ta-man  Gate,  leading 
into  the  Chinese  city.  As  the  wall  was  close  at 
hand,  we  ascended  it  by  one  of  the  ramps  or 
inclined  ways  that  lead  to  the  top,  and  entered  the 
tower  above  the  gateway.  It  was  a  rectangular 
three-storied  building  with  the  usual  sloping  gabled 
roofs  and  wide,  upturned  eaves  of  Chinese  architec- 
ture. The  interior  was  bare  and  empty.  The  lower 
room  was  wide  and  lofty,  the  full  breadth  and  depth 
of  the  tower,  and  communicating  with  the  floor 
above  by  a  steep  ladder.  From  the  large  windows 
of  the  upper  stories  a  fine  view  over  both  cities  was 
obtained.  We  looked  down  on  the  seething  crowds 
passing  along  Ha-ta-man  Street  and  away  to  where, 
above  the  Legation  quarter,  the  flags  of  the  Allies 
fluttered  gaily  in  proud  defiance  to  the  tall  yellow 
roofs  of  the  Imperial  palace  close  by.  Descending, 
we  emerged  upon  the  broad  paved  road  that  ran 
along  the  top  of  the  wall,  and  found  it  a  pleasant 
change  from  the  close,  fetid  streets.  The  side 
towards  the  Chinese  city,  the  houses  of  which  run  up 


78  THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

to  the  foot  of  the  wall,  is  defended  by  a  loopholed 
and  embrasured  parapet.  We  soon  found  ourselves 
over  the  Legation  quarter  and  looked  down  on  the 
spot  where  the  besieged  Europeans  had  so  long 
held  their  assailants  at  bay.  A  broad  ditch  or 
nullah  with  walled  sides,  which  during  the  rains 
drains  the  Tartar  city,  ran  towards  the  wall  on 
which  we  stood,  passing  beneath  our  feet  through 
a  tunnel  in  it,  which  could  be  closed  by  an  iron 
grating.  This  was  the  famous  water-gate  by  which 
the  Anglo- Indian  troops  had  entered,  first  of  the 
Allies,  to  the  relief  of  the  besieged.  The  nullah  was 
crossed  by  several  bridges,  over  one  of  which  passes 
Legation  Street,  along  which  we  had  ridden  in  our 
rickshas  that  morning.  On  the  left  bank  of  the 
nullah,  looking  north,  stands  the  English  Legation, 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall  enclosing  well-wooded 
grounds.  Opposite  it,  on  the  right  bank,  is  the 
Japanese  Legation,  similarly  enclosed.  During  the 
siege  the  two  were  connected  by  a  wall  built  across 
the  watercourse,  which  is  generally  dry,  and  they 
thus  formed  the  front  face  of  the  defence.  A 
portion  of  the  city  wall,  cut  off  by  breastworks 
on  the  summit,  became  the  rear  face,  which  was 
held  by  the  Americans,  who  were  attacked  along 
the  top  of  the  wall  itself.  The  French,  German, 
and  Belgian  Legations  lay  to  the  right  and  rear 
of  the  Japanese ;  while  the  Russian  and  American 
stood  between  the  British  Legation  and  the  wall. 
All  around  the  limits  of  the  defence  were  acres  of 


o    -a 


PEKIN  79 

wrecked  and  burnt  Chinese  houses,  destroyed  im- 
partially by  besiegers  and  besieged. 

After  a  long  study  of  the  position  from  our  coign 
of  vantage,  we  descended  to  the  left  bank  of  the 
nullah  ;  and,  passing  the  residences  of  the  American 
and  Russian  Ministers  guarded  by  stalwart  Yankee 
soldier  or  heavily  built  Slav,  we  came  to  where  the 
imposing  gateway  of  the  English  Legation  opens 
out  on  the  road  running  along  the  bank.  Inside 
the  entrance  stood  the  guardroom.  To  the  right 
lay  the  comfortable  residences  of  the  Minister  and 
the  various  officials  spread  about  in  the  spacious, 
tree-shaded  grounds.  We  passed  on  to  a  group 
of  small  and  squalid  Chinese  houses,  which  served 
as  the  quarters  for  the  officers  and  men  of  the 
Legation  Guard,  chiefly  composed  of  Royal  Welch 
Fusiliers.  The  officers  in  command,  all  old  friends 
of  ours,  received  us  most  hospitably,  and  enter- 
tained us  with  grateful  refreshment  and  the  news 
of  Pekin.  We  were  cynically  amused  at  learning 
from  them  an  instance  of  the  limits  of  human 
gratitude.  The  civilian  inhabitants  of  the  English 
Legation  have  insisted  that  a  wall  should  be  built 
between  their  residences  and  the  quarters  of  the 
guard,  lest,  perchance,  the  odour  of  "a  brutal  and 
licentious  soldiery  "  should  come  betwixt  the  wind 
and  their  nobility.  They  gladly  welcome  their 
protection  in  time  of  danger,  but  in  peace  their 
fastidious  eyes  would  be  offended  by  the  sight 
of  the  humble  red-coat.  Our  hosts  showed  us 


8o  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

round  the  grounds  and  the  enceinte  of  the  defence, 
and  explained  many  points  in  the  siege  that  we  had 
not  previously  understood. 

When,  our  visit  over,  we  walked  back  to  the 
hotel  down  Legation  Street,  we  were  interested 
in  noticing  that  the  walls  and  houses  bordering  the 
road  were  covered  with  bullet  splashes ;  while 
the  ruins  of  the  Chinese  houses,  of  the  fine  building 
that  had  once  been  a  branch  of  the  Hong  Kong 
and  Shanghai  Bank,  and  of  some  of  the  Legations 
spoke  eloquently  of  the  ravages  of  war.  On  the 
wreckage  around  notices  were  posted,  showing  the 
increased  areas  claimed  for  the  various  foreign 
Legations  in  the  general  scramble  that  ensued  on 
the  fall  of  Pekin.  Little  Belgium,  with  her  scanty 
interests  in  China,  has  not  done  badly.  Every- 
where were  to  be  seen  placards  bearing  the  legend, 
"Occupe"  par  la  Legation  Beige,"  until  she  promised 
to  have  almost  more  ground  than  any  of  the  great 
Powers.  Vae  Victis,  indeed !  And  the  truth  of  it 
was  evident  everywhere,  from  the  signs  of  the 
game  of  general  grab  all  around  the  Legations  to 
the  insolent  manner  of  a  German  Mounted  Infantry- 
man we  saw  scattering  the  Chinese  foot-passengers 
as  he  galloped  along  the  street. 

When  we  entered  the  dining-room  of  the  hotel 
that  evening,  we  found  it  filled  with  Continental 
officers,  who,  as  we  bowed  to  the  groups  at  the 
various  tables  before  taking  our  seats,  rose  politely 
and  returned  our  greeting.  Britishers  unused  to 


PEKIN  81 

the  elaborate  foreign  courtesy  found  the  continual 
salutes  that  were  the  custom  of  most  of  the  Allies 
rather  a  tax  at  first ;  and  the  ungraciousness  of 
English  manners  was  a  frequent  source  of  comment 
among  those  of  our  European  brothers-in-arms  who 
had  never  before  been  brought  in  contact  with  the 
Anglo-Saxon  race.  But  they  soon  regarded  us  as 
almost  paragons  of  politeness  compared  with  our 
American  cousins,  who  had  no  stomach  for  the 
universal  "bowing  and  scraping,"  and  with  true 
republican  frankness,  did  not  hesitate  to  let  it  be 
known.  Our  proverbial  British  gruffness  wore  off 
after  a  little  time,  and  our  Continental  comrades 
finally  came  to  the  conclusion  that  we  were  not 
so  unmannerly  as  they  deemed  us  at  first.  In  the 
beginning  some  offence  was  given  as  they  did  not 
understand  that  in  the  English  naval  or  military 
services  it  is  the  custom  where  several  officers  are 
together  for  the  senior  only  to  acknowledge  a 
salute ;  for  in  the  other  European  armies  all  would 
reply  equally  to  it. 

The  three  leading  characteristics  of  Pekin  are 
its  odour,  its  dust  in  dry  weather,  and  its  mud  after 
rain.  The  cleanliness  introduced  by  the  Allies  did 
wonders  towards  allaying  the  stench  ;  and  I  do  not 
think  that  any  place  in  the  world,  short  of  an 
alkali  desert,  can  beat  the  dust  of  the  Long  Valley. 
But  though  I  have  seen  "dear,  dirthy  Dublin"  in 
wet  weather,  have  waded  through  the  slush  of 
Aldershot,  and  had  certainly  marvelled  at  the  mire 


82  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

of  Hsin-ho,  yet  never  have  I  gazed  on  aught  to 
equal  the  depth,  the  intensity,  and  the  consistency 
of  the  awful  mud  of  Pekin.  We  made  its  acquaint- 
ance on  the  day  following  our  arrival.  Heavy  rain 
had  kept  us  indoors  until  late  in  the  afternoon 
when,  taking  advantage  of  a  temporary  cessation 
of  the  deluge,  we  rashly  ventured  on  a  stroll  down 
Ha-ta-man  Street.  The  city,  never  beautiful, 
looked  doubly  squalid  in  the  gloomy  weather. 
Along  the  raised  centre  portion  of  the  roadway 
the  small  Pekin  carts  laboured  literally  axle-deep 
in  mire.  It  was  impossible  for  rickshas  to  ply. 
On  either  side  the  lower  parts  of  the  street  were 
several  feet  under  water,  while  gushing  torrents 
rushed  into  them  from  the  alleys  and  lanes.  We 
struggled  with  difficulty  through  the  awful  mud, 
wading  through  pools  too  broad  to  jump.  Once 
or  twice  we  nearly  slipped  off  the  edge  of  the 
central  causeway,  and  narrowly  escaped  an  un- 
welcome bath  in  the  muddy  river  alongside.  As 
we  splashed  and  skipped  along  like  schoolboys, 
laughing  at  our  various  mishaps,  our  mirth  was 
suddenly  hushed.  Down  the  road  towards  us 
tramped  a  mournful  cortege — a  funeral  party  of 
German  soldiers  marching  with  reversed  arms 
behind  a  gun-carriage  on  which  lay,  in  a  rough 
Chinese  coffin,  the  corpse  of  some  young  conscript 
from  the  Vaterland.  As  we  stood  aside  to  let  the 
procession  pass,  we  raised  our  hands  to  our  helmets 
in  a  last  salute  to  a  comrade. 


PEKIN  83 

In  sobered  mood  we  waded  on  until,  in  the 
centre  of  the  roadway,  we  came  to  a  mat-shed  that 
marked  the  site  of  a  monument  to  be  erected 
on  the  spot  where  the  German  Minister,  Baron 
Kettler,  was  murdered  at  the  outbreak  of  the 
troubles.  Foully  slain  as  he  had  been  by  soldiers 
of  the  Chinese  Imperial  troops,  his  unhappy  fate 
proved  perhaps  the  salvation  of  the  other  Europeans 
in  the  Legations.  For  it  showed  that  no  reliance 
could  be  placed  on  the  promises  of  the  Court  which 
had  just  offered  them  a  safe-conduct  and  an  escort 
to  Tientsin.  And  on  the  ground  stained  by  his 
life-blood  the  monument  will  stand,  a  grim  memento 
and  a  warning  of  the  vengeance  of  civilisation. 

Weary  of  our  struggles  with  the  mud,  we  now 
resolved  to  go  no  farther  and  turned  back  to  the 
hotel,  but  not  in  time  to  escape  a  fresh  downpour, 
which  drenched  us  thoroughly. 

Next  day  we  changed  our  abode,  having  found 
accommodation  in  the  portion  of  Pekin  allotted  to 
the  English  troops  ;  for  the  city  was  divided  into 
sections  for  the  allied  occupation.  Some  officers 
of  the  Welch  Fusiliers  had  kindly  offered  us  room 
in  their  quarters  in  Chong  Wong  Foo.  This 
euphonious  title  signifies  the  palace  of  Prince 
Chong,  who  was  one  of  the  eight  princes  of  China. 
Our  new  lodging  was  more  imposing  in  name  than 
in  fact.  The  word  "  palace  "  conjured  up  visions 
of  stately  edifices  and  princely  magnificence  which 
were  dissipated  by  our  first  view  of  the  reality. 


84  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Seated  in  jolting,  springless  Pekin  carts  that 
laboured  heavily  through  the  deep  mire,  we  had 
driven  from  the  hotel  through  miles  of  dismal, 
squalid  streets.  Turning  off  a  main  road,  which 
was  being  repaired,  or  rather  re-made,  by  the 
British,  we  entered  a  series  of  small,  evil-smelling 
lanes  bordered  by  high  walls,  from  the  doorways 
of  which  an  occasional  phlegmatic  Chinaman  re- 
garded us  with  languid  interest.  At  length  we 
came  to  a  narrow  road,  which  the  rain  of  the 
previous  day  had  converted  into  a  canal.  The 
water  rose  over  the  axles  of  the  carts.  Our  sturdy 
ponies  splashed  on  indomitably  until  ahead  of  us 
the  roadway  widened  out  into  a  veritable  lake 
before  a  large  gate  at  which  stood  a  British  sentry. 
As  we  approached  he  called  out  to  us  to  turn  down 
a  lane  to  the  right  and  seek  a  side  entrance,  as 
the  water  in  front  of  the  principal  one  here  was 
too  deep  for  our  carts.  Thanks  to  his  directions, 
we  found  a  doorway  in  the  wall  which  gave 
admittance  to  a  large  courtyard.  Jumping  out  of 
our  uncomfortable  vehicles,  we  entered.  Round  the 
enclosure  were  long,  one-storied  buildings,  their 
fronts  consisting  of  lattice-work  covered  with  paper. 
They  were  used  as  barrack-rooms,  and  we  secured 
a  soldier  in  one  of  them  to  guide  us.  He  led  us 
through  numerous  similar  courtyards,  in  one  of 
which  stood  a  temple  converted  into  a  gun-shed, 
until  we  finally  passed  through  a  small  door  in 
a  wall  into  a  tangled  wilderness  of  a  garden.  At 


PEKIN  85 

the  far  end  of  this  stood  a  long,  low  building  with 
the  conventional  Chinese  curved  roof.  It  was  con- 
structed of  brick  and  wood,  the  latter  for  the  most 
part  curiously  carved.  The  low -hanging  eaves 
overspreading  the  broad  stone  verandah  were 
supported  by  worm-eaten  pillars.  The  portico  and 
doorways  were  of  fragile  lattice-work,  trellised  in 
fantastic  designs.  It  was  the  main  portion  of  Prince 
Chong's  residence  and  resembled  more  a  dilapi- 
dated summer-house  than  a  princely  palace.  Here 
we  were  met  and  welcomed  by  our  hosts,  Major 
Dobell,  D.S.O.  and  Lieutenant  Williams,  who 
ushered  us  into  the  anything  but  palatial  interior, 
which  consisted  of  low,  dingy  rooms  dimly  lighted 
by  paper-covered  windows.  The  various  chambers 
opened  off  each  other  or  into  gloomy  passages  in 
bewildering  and  erratic  fashion.  Camp  beds  and 
furniture  seemed  out  of  keeping  with  the  surround- 
ings ;  but  a  few  blackwood  stools  were  apparently 
all  that  Prince  Chong  had  left  behind  him  for  his 
uninvited  guests.  Thanks  to  our  friends'  kindness, 
we  were  soon  comfortably  installed,  and  felt  as 
much  at  home  as  if  we  had  lived  in  palaces  all 
our  lives.  It  took  us  some  time  to  learn  our 
way  about  the  labyrinth  of  courts.  The  buildings 
scattered  through  the  yards  would  have  afforded 
ample  accommodation  for  a  regiment ;  and  a  whole 
brigade  could  have  encamped  with  ease  within  the 
circumference  enclosed  by  the  outer  walls. 

The  place   of  most   fascinating  interest   in   the 


86  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

marvellous  capital  of  China  is  undoubtedly  the 
Forbidden  City,  the  Emperor's  residence.  With 
the  wonderful  attraction  of  the  mysterious  its  very 
name,  fraught  with  surmise,  is  alluring.  Nothing 
in  all  the  vastness  of  Pekin  excited  such  curiosity 
as  the  fabled  enclosure  that  had  so  long  shrouded 
in  awful  obscurity  the  Son  of  Heaven.  No  white 
man  in  ordinary  times  could  hope  to  fathom  its 
mysteries  or  know  what  lay  concealed  within 
its  yellow  walls.  The  ambassadors  of  the  proudest 
nations  of  Europe  were  only  admitted  on  suffer- 
ance, and  that  rarely,  to  the  outermost  pavilions 
of  that  sacred  city,  the  hidden  secrets  of  which 
none  might  dare  reveal.  But  now  the  monarch 
of  Celestial  origin  was  an  exile  from  the  palace, 
whose  inmost  recesses  were  profaned  by  the  im- 
pious presence  of  his  foes.  The  tramp  of  an 
avenging  army  had  echoed  through  its  deserted 
courts ;  barbarian  voices  broke  its  holy  hush. 
Foreign  soldiers  jested  carelessly  in  the  sacred 
chamber  where  the  proudest  mandarins  of  China 
had  prostrated  themselves  in  awe  before  the  Dragon 
Throne.  Within  its  violated  walls  strangers  wan- 
dered freely  where  they  listed;  and  Heaven  sent  not 
its  lightnings  to  avenge  the  sacrilege.  Surely  the 
gods  were  sleeping ! 

While  the  capital  of  the  Celestial  Kingdom 
languished  in  the  grasp  of  the  accursed  barbarian, 
admittance  to  the  Forbidden  City  was  granted  to 
anyone  who  obtained  a  written  order  from  one  of 


PEKIN  87 

the  Legations.  This  was  readily  given  to  officers 
of  the  armies  of  occupation.  Provided  with  it  and 
a  Chinese-speaking  guide,  a  party  of  us  set  out 
one  day  from  the  British  Legation  to  explore  the 
mysteries  of  the  Emperor's  abode.  A  short  ricksha 
ride  brought  us  to  the  Imperial  city.  A  rough 
paved  road  through  it  led  to  the  gateway  of  the 
Palace,  at  which  stood  a  guard  of  stalwart  Ameri- 
can soldiers.  Quitting  our  rickshas,  we  presented 
our  pass  to  the  sergeant  in  command.  The  gates 
were  thrown  open,  and  we  were  permitted  to  enter 
the  sacred  portals.  Before  us  lay  a  large  paved 
courtyard,  the  grass  springing  up  between  the  stone 
flags,  leading  to  a  long,  single-storied  pavilion, 
seemingly  crushed  beneath  the  weight  of  its  wide- 
spreading  yellow-tiled  double  roof.  To  one  who 
has  imagined  undreamt-of  luxury  and  magnificence 
in  the  residence  of  the  Emperor  of  China  the 
reality  comes  as  a  sad  disappointment.  The  Palace, 
far  from  being  a  pile  of  splendid  and  ornate  archi- 
tecture, consists  of  a  number  of  detached  single- 
storied  buildings,  one  behind  the  other,  separated 
by  immense  paved  courtyards,  along  the  sides  of 
which  are  the  residences  of  the  servants  and  at- 
tendants. The  outer  pavilions  are  a  series  of  throne 
rooms,  in  which  audience  is  given  according  to  the 
rank  of  the  individual  admitted  to  the  presence  in 
inverse  ratio  to  his  importance.  Thus,  the  first 
nearest  the  gate  suffices  for  the  reception  of  the 
smaller  mandarins  or  envoys  of  petty  States,  the 


88  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

next  for  higher  notabilities  or  ambassadors  of 
greater  nations,  and  so  on. 

The  description  of  one  of  these  throne  rooms 
will  serve  for  all. 

A  raised  foundation,  with  tier  above  tier  of  carved 
white  marble  balustrades,  slopes  up  to  a  paved  ter- 
race on  which  stands  a  large  one-storied  pavilion. 
Its  double  roof  blazes  with  lustrous  yellow  tiles  ;  the 
gables  are  ornamented  with  weird  porcelain  mon- 
sters. The  far-projecting  eaves,  shading  a  deep 
verandah,  are  supported  by  many  pillars.  From 
the  courtyard  steps  on  either  side  of  the  sloping 
marble  slab,  curiously  carved  with  fantastic  designs 
of  dragons  and  known  as  the  Spirit  Path,  lead  up 
to  the  terrace,  on  which  are  large  bronze  incense- 
burners,  urns,  life-size  storks,  and  other  birds  and 
animals,  with  marble  images  of  the  sacred  tortoise. 
From  the  verandah  many  doors  lead  into  the  vast 
and  gloomy  interior.  A  lofty  central  chamber, 
supported  by  gilded  columns,  contains  a  high  dais, 
on  which  stands  a  throne  of  gilt  and  carved  wood 
with  bronze  urns  and  incense-burners  around  it. 
The  dais  is  surrounded  by  gilded  railings  and  led 
up  to  by  a  flight  of  half  a  dozen  steps.  Behind  it 
is  a  high  screen  of  carved  wood.  Screen,  walls, 
and  pillars  are  gay  with  quaint  designs  of  writhing, 
coiling  dragons  in  gold  and  vivid  hues,  or  hung 
with  huge  tablets  inscribed  with  Chinese  characters. 
The  ceiling  is  gorgeously  painted.  The  whole  a 
wonderful  medley  of  barbaric  gaudiness.  From 


PEKIN  89 

the  principal  chamber  a  few  smaller  rooms  lead  off, 
crammed  with  wooden  chests  containing  piles  of 
manuscripts. 

As  we  wandered  about  this  pavilion  our  move- 
ments were  closely  watched  by  the  custodians  ;  for 
many  of  the  Imperial  eunuchs  had  been  permitted 
to  remain  in  the  palace  and  entrusted  with  the  keys 
and  charge  of  the  various  buildings.  As,  after  the 
fairly  exhaustive  looting  that  took  place  on  the 
capture  of  the  city,  no  further  plundering  was 
allowed,  these  men  were  instructed  to  watch  over 
the  safety  of  the  contents  of  the  palace  that  had 
escaped  the  first  marauders ;  and  they  kept  a 
sharp  eye  on  visitors  who  endeavoured  to  secure 
mementoes.  Despite  their  vigilance,  one  of  our 
party  succeeded  in  carrying  off  a  little  souvenir 
which  he  found  in  a  chamber  off  the  throne  room. 
It  was  a  small,  flat  candlestick,  which  its  finder 
hoped  would  prove  to  be  gold.  It  was  only  of 
brass,  however,  as  he  subsequently  discovered  ;  and 
he  commented  disgustedly  on  the  parsimony  of  a 
monarch  who  could  allow  so  mean  a  metal  within 
his  palace. 

In  the  usual  spirit  of  tourists,  to  whom  nothing 
is  sacred,  we  each  reposed  for  a  few  moments  in 
the  Emperor's  gilded  chair,  so  that  we  could  boast 
of  once  having  occupied  the  Throne  of  China.  I 
doubt  if  future  historians  will  record  our  names 
among  those  who  have  assumed  that  exalted 
position. 


90  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Passing  through  this  building,  we  emerged  upon 
another  courtyard,  at  the  far  end  of  which  stood  a 
similar  pavilion.  Its  interior  arrangement  differed 
but  slightly  from  the  one  which  I  have  just  described. 
There  were  several  of  these  throne  rooms,  one 
behind  the  other,  all  very  much  alike.  Along  the 
sides  of  the  intervening  courts  were  low  buildings 
of  the  usual  Chinese  type,  which  had  served  as 
residences  for  the  palace  attendants. 

We  came  to  a  large  joss-house,  or  temple,  the 
interior  filled  with  gilded  altars,  hideous  gods, 
memorial  tablets,  bronze  incense-burners  and  can- 
delabra, silken  hangings,  and  tawdry  decorations. 
Here  the  reigning  monarch  comes  to  worship  on 
the  vigil  of  his  marriage. 

In  amusing  proximity  was  the  Emperor's  seraglio. 
The  gate  was  closed  during  the  allied  occupation, 
and  on  it  was  a  notice  to  the  effect  that  "  the  cus- 
todian has  strict  orders  not  to  admit  any  person. 
Do  not  ill-treat  him  if  he  refuses  to  open  the  gate 
for  you.  He  is  only  obeying  orders."  It  was 
signed  by  General  Chaffee,  United  States  Army, 
and  was  significant  of  many  things.  So  the  hidden 
beauties  still  remain  a  mystery  to  the  outer  world. 

Near  one  of  the  pavilions  a  giant  bronze  attracted 
our  attention.  It  represented  an  enormous  lion, 
with  particularly  ferocious  countenance,  reposing 
on  a  square  pedestal,  one  long-clawed  fore-paw 
resting  on  the  terrestrial  globe.  Beneath  the  other 
sprawled  in  agony  a  very  diminutive  lion,  em- 


PEKIN  91 

blematic  of  China's  enemies  crushed  beneath  her 
might.  The  sculpture  seemed  rather  ironical  at 
that  epoch. 

Passing  onwards  through  a  puzzling  maze  of 
courtyards,  we  reached  at  length  the  most  interest- 
ing portion  of  the  palace,  the  private  apartments 
of  the  Emperor,  the  Empress-Consort,  and  that 
notorious  lady  the  Empress- Dowager.  Like  all 
the  rest  of  the  Forbidden  City,  they  were  merely 
one-storied,  yellow-roofed  pavilions  separated  by 
courts. 

The  interior  of  the  Emperor's  abode  consisted 
of  low,  rather  dingy  rooms  opening  off  each  other. 
The  appointments  were  of  anything  but  regal 
magnificence.  The  furniture  was  of  carved  black- 
wood,  with  an  admixture  of  tawdry  European  chairs 
and  sofas.  On  the  walls  hung  a  weird  medley 
of  Chinese  paintings  and  cheap  foreign  oleographs, 
all  in  gorgeous  gilt  frames.  The  latter  were  such 
as  would  be  found  in  a  fifth-rate  lodging-house — 
horse  races,  children  playing  at  see-saw,  con- 
ventional landscapes,  and  farmyard  scenes.  Jade 
ornaments  and  artificial  flowers  in  vases  abounded  ; 
but  all  around,  wherever  one  could  be  hung  or 
placed,  were  European  clocks,  from  the  gilt  French 
timepiece  under  a  glass  shade  to  the  cheapest 
wooden  eight-day  clock.  There  must  have  been 
at  least  two  or  three  hundred,  probably  more, 
scattered  about  the  pavilion.  The  Chinese  have 
a  weird  and  inexplicable  passion  for  them,  and  a 


92  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

man's  social  respectability  would  seem  to  be 
gauged  more  by  the  number  of  timepieces  he 
possesses  than  by  any  other  outward  and  visible 
signs  of  wealth.  What  a  costly  collection  of  rare 
masterpieces  of  art  is  to  the  American  millionaire, 
the  heterogeneous  gathering  of  foreign  clocks 
apparently  is  to  the*  Celestial  plutocrat.  The 
Imperial  bed  was  a  fine  piece  of  carved  blackwood ; 
but  the  most  magnificent  article  of  furniture  in 
the  pavilion  was  a  large  screen  of  the  famous 
Canton  featherwork,  made  of  the  green  and  blue 
plumage  of  the  kingfisher.  The  design,  which 
was  framed  and  covered  with  glass,  represented 
a  pilgrimage  to  a  sacred  mountain.  On  its  summit 
stood  a  temple,  towards  which  crowds  of  wor- 
shippers climbed  wearily.  As  a  work  of  art  it 
was  excellent.  It  was  the  only  thing  in  the 
Imperial  apartments  which  I  coveted.  The  rest 
of  the  furniture  and  fittings  were  tawdry  and 
apparently  valueless. 

The  pavilion  of  the  Empress-Consort  was  rather 
more  luxuriously  upholstered  than  that  of  her 
husband  and  contained  some  splendid  embroideries. 
In  her  boudoir,  besides  the  inevitable  collection  of 
clocks,  oleographs,  and  artificial  flowers,  were  a 
piano  and  a  small  organ,  both  very  much  out  of 
tune,  presented,  we  were  told,  by  European  ladies 
resident  in  China. 

The  pavilion  of  the  Empress- Dowager,  a  much 
finer  abode  than  that  of  the  reigning  monarch, 


PEKIN  93 

contained  a  long,  glass-walled  room  crowded  with 
bizarre  ornaments  of  foreign  workmanship.  Musi- 
cal boxes,  mechanical  toys  under  glass  shades, 
vases  of  wax  flowers,  stood  along  each  side  on 
marble-topped  tables ;  and  all  around,  of  course, 
clocks.  On  the  walls  of  her  sleeping  apartment 
hung  a  strange  astronomical  chart.  The  bed,  an 
imposing  and  wide  four-poster,  was  covered  and 
hung  with  rich  embroideries.  And,  as  tourists 
should  do,  we  lay  down  in  turn  on  the  old  lady's 
couch,  where  I  warrant  she  had  tossed  in  sleepless 
agitation  in  those  last  summer  nights  when  the 
rattle  of  musketry  around  the  besieged  Legations 
told  that  the  hated  foreigners  still  resisted  China's 
might.  And  little  slumber  must  have  visited  her 
there  when  the  booming  of  guns,  during  the  dark 
hours  when  Russian  and  Japanese  flung  themselves 
on  the  doomed  city,  disturbed  the  silence  even  in' 
the  sacrosanct  heart  of  the  Forbidden  City  and 
told  of  the  vengeance  at  hand. 

Having  thoroughly  inspected  the  Imperial  apart- 
ments, we  visited  a  very  gaudily  decorated  temple, 
crowded  with  weird  gods  and  hung  with  em- 
broideries, and  then  passed  on  to  the  small  but 
delightful  Emperor's  garden.  It  was  full  of  quaintly 
shaped  trees  and  shrubs,  bizarre  rockeries  and 
curious  summer-houses,  gorgeous  flowers  and  plants, 
and  splendid  bronze  monsters.  These  last  abso- 
lutely blazed  in  the  brilliant  sunlight  as  though 
gilded ;  for  they  are  made  of  that  costly  Chinese 


94  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

bronze  which  contains  a  large  admixture  of  gold. 
The  garden  closed  the  catalogue  of  sights  to  be 
seen  in  the  palace ;  and  though  we  visited  a  few 
more  of  the  dingy  buildings  of  the  Forbidden  City, 
there  was  nothing  else  worthy  of  being  chronicled. 
We  passed  out  through  the  northern  gateway  and 
climbed  up  Coal  Hill  close  by  for  a  long,  compre- 
hensive look  over  Pekin  from  the  pavilion  on  the 
summit. 

All  around  us  the  capital  lay  embosomed  in  trees 
and  bathed  in  brilliant  sunshine,  the  yellow  roofs  of 
the  Imperial  Palace  at  our  feet  flashing  like  gold. 
To  the  right  lay  the  pretty  Lotos  Lakes  of  the 
Empress- Do  wager,  the  white  marble  bridge  span- 
ning them  stretching  like  a  delicate  ivory  carving 
over  the  gleaming  water.  Through  the  haze  of 
heat  and  dust  the  towers  of  the  walls  rose  up  boldly 
to  the  sky.  And  far  away,  beyond  the  crowded 
city,  the  country  stretched  in  fertile  fields  and  dense 
groves  of  trees  to  a  distant  line  of  hills,  where  the 
tall  temples  of  the  Summer  Palace  stood  out 
sharply  against  a  dark  background. 


CHAPTER   V 
RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN 

WHEN  the  treachery  of  the  Empress- 
Dowager  and  the  mad  fanaticism  of  the 
Chinese  ringed  in  the  Legations  with  a  circle  of 
fire  and  steel,  all  the  world  trembled  at  the  danger 
of  the  besieged  Europeans.  When  Pekin  fell  and 
relief  came,  the  heroism  of  the  garrison  was  lauded 
through  every  nation.  But  few  heard  of  a  still 
more  gallant  and  desperate  defence  which  took 
place  at  the  same  time  and  in  the  same  city — when 
a  few  priests  and  a  handful  of  marines  in  the 
Peitan,  the  Roman  Catholic  cathedral  of  Pekin, 
long  held  at  bay  innumerable  hordes  of  assailants. 
Well  deserved  as  was  the  praise  bestowed  on  the 
defenders  of  the  Legations,  their  case  was  never 
so  desperate  as  that  of  the  missionaries,  nuns,  and 
converts  penned  up  in  the  church  and  schools.  On 
the  Peitan  fell  the  first  shock  of  fanatical  attack ; 
no  armistice  gave  rest  to  its  weary  garrison,  and 
to  it  relief  came  last  of  all.  For  over  two  months, 
with  twenty  French  and  eleven  Italian  marines,  the 
heroic  Archbishop,  Monseigneur  Favrier,  and  his 
priests — all  honour  to  them! — held  an  almost  im- 
possible position  against  overwhelming  numbers. 

95 


96  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

The  enceinte  of  the  defence  comprised  the  cathe- 
dral, the  residences  of  the  priests,  the  schools,  and 
the  convent,  and  contained  within  its  straggling 
precincts,  besides  the  nuns  and  the  missionaries, 
over  3,000  converts — men,  women,  and  children. 
The  buildings  were  riddled  with  shot  and  shell. 
Twice  mines  were  exploded  within  the  defences 
and  tore  away  large  portions  of  the  protecting  wall, 
besides  killing  or  wounding  hundreds. 

The  Chinese  occupied  houses  within  a  few  yards 
of  the  cathedral,  and  on  one  occasion  brought  a 
gun  up  within  forty  paces  of  its  central  door.  A 
few  rounds  would  have  laid  the  way  open  to  the 
stormers.  All  hope  seemed  lost ;  when  the  daunt- 
less old  Archbishop  led  out  ten  marines  in  a 
desperate  sally,  drove  off  the  assailants,  and, 
capturing  the  gun,  dragged  it  back  within  the 
church.  A  heroic  priest  volunteered  to  try  to 
pierce  the  environing  hordes  of  besiegers  and 
seek  aid  from  the  Legations,  not  knowing  that 
they,  too,  were  in  deadly  peril.  In  disguise  he 
stole  out  secretly  from  the  defences,  and  was  never 
heard  of  again.  One  shudders  to  think  what  his 
fate  must  have  been.  It  is  still  a  mystery.  Under 
a  pitiless  close-range  fire  the  marines  and  priests, 
worthy  of  their  gallant  leader,  stood  at  their  posts 
day  and  night  and  drove  back  the  mad  rushes  of 
the  assailants.  Heedless  of  death,  the  nuns  bore 
water,  food,  and  ammunition  to  the  defenders, 
nursed  the  wounded  and  sick,  and  soothed  the 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  97 

alarm  of  the  Chinese  women  and  children  in  their 
care.  Disease  and  starvation  added  their  grim 
terrors  to  the  horrors  of  the  situation. 

Desirous  of  seeing  the  scene  of  this  heroic 
defence,  I  set  out  one  day  to  visit  the  cathedral 
in  company  with  some  officers  of  the  Fusiliers  and 
of  my  own  regiment.  The  ground  being  dry,  we 
chose  rickshas  for  our  vehicles  in  preference  to 
Pekin  carts,  which  are  as  uncomfortable  a  form  of 
conveyance  as  any  I  know.  Our  coolies  ran  us 
along  at  a  good  pace,  for  the  Pekinese  ricksha-men 
are  exceedingly  energetic ;  indeed,  the  Chinaman 
is  the  best  worker  I  have  ever  seen,  with  the 
possible  exception  of  the  Corean  boatmen  at 
Chemulpo.  The  Hong  Kong  dock  labourers  are 
a  model  that  the  same  class  in  England  would 
never  copy.  One  day  in  Dublin  I  watched  three 
men  raising  a  small  paving-sett  a  few  inches  square 
from  the  roadway.  Two  held  the  points  of  crow- 
bars under  it  while  the  third  leisurely  scratched  at 
the  surrounding  earth  with  a  pickaxe,  pausing 
frequently  to  wipe  his  heated  brow  and  remark 
that  "  hard  work  is  not  aisy,  begob ! "  I  wondered 
what  a  Chinaman  would  have  said  if  he  had  seen 
that  sight. 

Close  to  the  Peitan  we  found  ourselves  in  a 
broad  street  which  was  being  re-made  by  the 
French,  who  had  named  it  "  Rue  du  General 
Voyron"  after  their  commander -in -chief.  In  it 
were  many  newly-opened  cafes  and  drinking-shops, 

H 


98  THE  LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

placarded  with  advertisements  of  various  sorts  of 
European  liquors  for  sale  within.  Turning  off  this 
road  into  a  narrow  lane,  we  suddenly  came  upon 
the  gate  of  the  Peitan. 

The  cathedral  is  a  beautiful  building  of  the 
graceful  semi -Gothic  type  of  modern  French 
churches,  lightly  constructed  of  white  stone.  It  is 
crowned  by  airy  pinnacles  and  looks  singularly  out 
of  place  among  the  squalid  Chinese  houses  that 
crowd  around  it.  At  first  we  could  not  discern  any 
marks  of  the  rough  handling  it  had  received,  and 
marvelled  at  its  good  preservation.  But  on 
approaching  closer,  we  saw  that  the  masonry  was 
chipped  and  scarred  in  a  thousand  places.  Scarce 
a  square  yard  of  the  front  was  without  a  bullet 
or  shell-hole  through  it.  The  walls  were  so  thin 
that  the  shells  had  passed  through  without  ex- 
ploding ;  and  it  seemed  almost  incredible  that  any 
being  could  have  remained  alive  within  them  during 
the  hellish  fire  to  which  they  had  so  evidently  been 
subjected. 

We  were  met  at  the  entrance  by  Monseigneur 
Favrier's  courteous  coadjutor-bishop,  who  received 
us  most  hospitably,  took  us  over  the  cathedral  and 
round  the  defences,  and  explained  the  incidents  of 
the  siege  to  us.  He  showed  us  the  enormous  hole 
in  the  compound  and  the  breach  in  the  wall  caused 
by  the  explosion  of  one  of  the  Chinese  mines, 
which  had  killed  and  wounded  hundreds.  The 
ground  everywhere  was  strewn  with  large  iron 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  99 

bullets  and  fragments  of  shells,  fired  by  the  be- 
siegers. The  Bishop  smiled  when  we  requested 
permission  to  carry  off  a  few  of  these  as  souvenirs, 
and  remarked  with  truth  that  there  were  enough 
to  suffice  for  visitors  for  many  years.  We  in- 
spected with  interest  the  gun  captured  by  the 
Archbishop.  Then,  as  he  spoke  no  English,  and 
I  was  the  only  one  of  the  party  who  could  con- 
verse with  him  in  French,  he  handed  us  over  to 
the  care  of  an  Australian  nun,  who  proved  to  be 
a  capital  cicerone  and  depicted  the  horrors  they 
had  undergone  much  more  vividly  than  our  pre- 
vious guide  had  done.  Her  narrative  of  the 
sufferings  of  the  brave  sisters  and  the  women  and 
children  was  heartrending.  Before  we  left  we 
were  fortunate  enough  to  have  the  honour  of  being 
presented  to  the  heroic  prelate,  whose  courage  and 
example  had  animated  the  defenders.  A  burly, 
strongly  built  man,  with  genial  and  open  counten- 
ance, Monseigneur  Favrier  is  a  splendid  specimen 
of  the  Church  Militant  and  reminded  one  of  the 
old-time  bishops,  who,  clad  in  armour,  had  led 
their  flocks  to  war,  and  fought  in  the  forefront  of 
battles  in  the  Middle  Ages.  His  bravery  was 
equalled  by  his  modesty,  for  he  resolutely  declined 
to  be  drawn  into  any  account  of  his  exploits 
during  the  siege.  Long  may  he  flourish !  A 
perfect  specimen  of  the  priest  of  God,  the  soldier, 
and  the  gentleman.  As  we  parted  from  him  we 
turned  to  look  again  on  the  man  so  modestly 


ioo          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

unconscious  of  his  own  heroism,  that  in  any  army 
in  the  world  would  have  covered  him  with  honours 
and  undying  fame. 

When  we  looked  at  the  extent  of  the  defences 
and  compared  it  with  the  paucity  of  the  garrison, 
we  could  scarcely  understand  how  the  place  re- 
sisted attack  for  an  hour.  By  all  the  rules  of 
warfare  it  was  absolutely  untenable.  It  is  sur- 
rounded on  all  sides  within  a  few  yards  by  houses, 
which  were  occupied  by  the  Chinese  who  from 
their  cover  poured  in  an  unceasing  and  harassing 
fire  upon  the  garrison.  The  defenders  were  too 
few  to  even  attempt  to  drive  them  out,*  and  so 
were  obliged  to  confine  themselves  to  defeating  the 
frequent  assaults  made  on  them.  Their  successful 
and  gallant  resistance  was  a  feat  that  would  be  a 
glorious  page  in  the  annals  of  any  army.  "Palmam 
qui  meruit  ferat !" 

Not  the  least  remarkable  of  the  many  curious 
phases  of  this  extraordinary  campaign  was  the 
rapidity  with  which,  when  order  had  been  restored, 
the  Chinese  settled  down  again  in  Pekin.  A  few 
months  after  the  fall  of  the  capital  its  streets,  to 
a  casual  observer,  had  resumed  their  ordinary 
appearance ;  but  the  wrecked  houses,  the  foreign 
flags  everywhere  displayed,  the  absence  of  the 
native  upper  classes,  and  the  presence  of  the 
soldiers  of  the  Allies  marked  the  change.  Burly 
Russian  and  lithe  Sikh,  dapper  little  Japanese  and 

*  They  had  only  forty  rifles  all  told. 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  101 

yellow  -  haired  Teuton  roughly  shouldered  the 
Celestial  aside  in  the  streets,  where  formerly  the 
white  man  had  passed  hurriedly  along  in  momen- 
tary dread  of  insult  and  assault.  But  in  the 
presence  of  the  strict  discipline  of  the  troops  after 
the  first  excesses  the  Chinaman  speedily  recovered 
his  contempt — veiled  though  it  was  now  perforce — 
for  the  foreign  devil.  Ricksha  coolies  argued  over 
their  fare,  where  not  long  before  a  blow  would 
have  been  the  only  payment  vouchsafed  or  ex- 
pected. Lounging  crowds  of  Chinese  on  the  side- 
paths  refused  to  make  way  for  European  officers 
until  forcibly  reminded  that  they  belonged  to  a 
vanquished  nation. 

Shops  that  had  any  of  their  contents  left  after 
the  fairly  complete  looting  the  city  had  undergone 
opened  again,  the  proprietors  demanding  prices  for 
their  goods  that  promised  to  rapidly  recoup  them 
for  their  losses.  Vehicles  of  all  kinds  filled  the 
streets,  which  were  soon  as  interesting  as  they  had 
been  before  the  advent  of  the  Allies — and  a  great 
deal  safer.  Pekin  carts  rattled  past  strings  of  laden 
Tartar  camels,  which  plodded  along  with  noiseless 
footfall  and  the  weary  air  of  haughty  boredom  of 
their  kind.  Coolies  with  streaming  bodies  ran  their 
rickshas  over  the  uneven  roadway.  Heavy  trans- 
port waggons,  drawn  by  European  and  American 
horses  or  stout  Chinese  mules,  rumbled  through 
the  deep  dust  or  heavy  mud.  And,  thanks  to  the 
cleansing  efforts  of  the  Allies,  the  formerly  most 


102  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

noticeable  feature  of  Pekin  was  absent — its  over- 
powering stench. 

Engaging  the  services  of  a  guide  and  interpreter, 
a  party  of  us  set  out  one  afternoon  to  view  the 
shops,  with  the  ulterior  purpose  of  purchasing  some 
of  the  famous  pottery  and  silks.  We  went  in 
rickshas  to  Ha-ta-man  Street,  which  is  a  good 
commercial  thoroughfare.  Arrived  there,  we  dis- 
carded our  man-drawn  vehicles  and  strolled  along 
the  high  side-walks,  pausing  now  and  then  to  gaze 
at  the  curious  pictures  of  Chinese  street  life.  Here 
peddlers  sat  surrounded  by  their  wares.  An  old- 
clothes  merchant,  selecting  a  convenient  space  of 
blank  wall,  had  driven  nails  into  it,  and  hung  on 
them  garments  of  all  kinds,  from  the  cylindrical 
trousers  of  the  Chinese  woman  to  the  tarnished, 
gold-embroidered  coat  of  a  mandarin,  with  perhaps 
a  suggestive  rent  and  stain  that  spoke  all  too  plainly 
of  the  fate  of  the  last  owner.  Another  man  sat 
amid  piles  of  footgear — the  quaint  tiny  shoes  of 
women  that  would  not  fit  a  European  baby,  the 
slippers  of  the  superior  sex,  with  their  thick  felt 
soles,  the  long  knee  boots  for  winter  wear.  Here 
a  venerable,  white-haired  Chinaman,  with  the  beard 
that  bespoke  him  a  grandfather,  dozed  among  a 
heterogeneous  collection  of  rusty  knives,  empty 
bottles  and  jampots,  scraps  of  old  iron,  and  broken 
locks  of  native  or  European  manufacture.  Another 
displayed  cheap  pottery  of  quaint  shape  and  hideous 
colouring,  or  the  curious,  pretty  little  snuff-bottles, 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  103 

with  tiny  spoons  fitted  into  the  stopper,  that  I 
have  never  seen  anywhere  but  in  China.  Another 
offered  tawdry  embroidery  or  tinselled  fan-cases. 
Piles  of  Chinese  books  and  writing-desks,  with 
their  brushes  and  solid  blocks  of  ink,  were  the 
stock-in-trade  of  another. 

And  true  Oriental  haughty  indifference  marked 
the  demeanour  of  these  cheapjacks  when  we 
searched  among  their  curious  wares  for  souvenirs 
of  Pekin.  They  evinced  not  the  least  anxiety  for 
us  to  buy,  although  they  knew  that  the  lowest  price 
that  they  would  extract  from  us  was  sure  to  be 
much  more  than  they  could  obtain  from  a  Chinese 
purchaser.  Their  demands  were  exorbitant  for 
the  commonest,  most  worthless  article ;  and  they 
showed  no  regret  if  we  turned  away  exasperated  at 
their  rapacity.  One  asked  me  fifteen  dollars  for  a 
thing  which  he  gave  eventually,  after  hard  bargain- 
ing, for  one,  and  then  probably  made  a  profit  of 
fifty  cents  over  it. 

Farther  on  we  stopped  to  gaze  at  a  small  crowd 
assembled  round  a  fortune-teller.  A  stout  country- 
woman was  having  her  future  foretold.  The 
prophet,  looking  alternately  at  her  hand  and  at  a 
chart  covered  with  hieroglyphics,  was  evidently 
promising  her  a  career  full  of  good  fortune  and 
happiness,  to  judge  from  the  rapt  and  delighted 
expression  on  her  face. 

A  bear,  lumbering  heavily  through  a  cumbrous 
dance  to  the  mournful  strains  of  a  weird  musical 


THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

instrument,  was  the  centre  of  another  small  gather- 
ing. Farther  down  the  street  a  juggler  had  attracted 
a  ring  of  interested  spectators,  who,  when  the  per- 
former endeavoured  to  collect  money  from  them, 
melted  away  quite  as  rapidly  as  a  similar  crowd  in 
the  streets  of  London  scatters  when  the  hat  is 
passed  round. 

We  had  noticed  many  peepshows  being  exhibited 
along  the  side-walk,  with  small,  pig-tailed  urchins, 
their  eyes  glued  to  the  peepholes,  evidently  having 
their  money's  worth.  Curious  to  see  the  spec- 
tacles with  which  the  Chinese  showman  regales  his 
audiences,  we  struck  a  bargain  with  one,  and  for 
the  large  sum  of  five  cents  the  whole  party  was 
allowed  to  look  in  through  the  glasses.  The  first 
tableau  represented  a  troupe  of  acrobats  performing 
before  the  Imperial  Court.  Then  the  proprietor 
pressed  a  spring  ;  by  a  mechanical  device  the  scene 
changed,  and  we  drew  back  from  the  peepholes ! 
The  Chinese  are  not  a  moral  race.  None  of  us 
were  easily  shocked,  but  the  picture  that  met  our 
gaze  was  a  little  too  indecent  for  the  broadest- 
minded  European.  We  moved  on. 

Outside  a  farrier's  booth  a  pony  was  being  shod. 
Two  poles  planted  firmly  in  the  earth,  with  a  cross- 
piece  fixed  between  them,  about  six  feet  from  the 
ground,  formed  a  sort  of  gallows.  Ropes  passed 
round  the  animal's  neck,  chest,  loins,  and  legs,  and 
fastened  to  the  poles,  half  suspending  him  in  the 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  105 

air,  held  him  almost  immovable.  The  most  vicious 
brute  would  be  helpless  in  such  a  contrivance. 

Our  guide,  on  being  reminded  that  we  desired 
to  make  some  purchases,  stopped  outside  a  low- 
fronted,  dingy  shop,  and  informed  us  that  it 
belonged  to  one  of  the  best  silk  merchants  in 
Pekin.  We  entered,  and  found  the  proprietor  deep 
in  conversation  with  a  friend.  The  guide  addressed 
him,  and  told  him  that  we  wished  to  look  at  some 
silks.  Hardly  interrupting  his  conversation,  the 
merchant  replied  that  he  had  none.  Irritated  at 
his  casual  manner,  our  interpreter  asked  why  he 
exhibited  a  sign -board  outside  the  shop,  which 
declared  that  silks  were  for  sale  within.  "  Oh, 
everything  I  had  was  looted.  There  is  nothing 
left,"  replied  the  proprietor  nonchalantly ;  and  he 
turned  to  resume  his  interrupted  conversation  as 
indifferently  as  if  the  plundering  of  his  goods  was 
too  ordinary  a  business  risk  to  demand  a  moment's 
thought  Not  a  word  of  complaint  at  his  mis- 
fortune. How  different,  I  thought,  from  the  torrent 
of  indignant  eloquence  with  which  the  European 
shopkeeper  would  bewail  the  slackness  of  trade  or 
a  fire  that  had  damaged  his  property ! 

We  were  more  successful  in  the  next  establish- 
ment we  visited,  for  a  new  stock  had  been  laid  in 
since  the  capture  of  the  city.  But  the  silks  were 
of  very  inferior  quality,  the  colours  crude  and 
gaudy,  and  the  prices  exorbitant.  So  we  purchased 
nothing. 


io6          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

We  next  inspected  a  china  shop,  which  was 
stacked  with  pottery  from  floor  to  ceiling.  To  my 
mind  the  patterns  and  colouring  of  everything  we 
saw  were  particularly  hideous,  though  some  of  our 
party  who  posed  as  connoisseurs  went  into  raptures 
over  weird  designs  and  glaring  blues  and  browns. 

I  was  equally  disappointed  in  a  visit  to  a  fan 
shop.  China  is  pre-eminently  the  land  of  fans, 
and  I  had  hoped  to  find  some  particularly  choice 
specimens  in  Pekin.  But  all  that  were  shown  me 
were  very  indifferent — badly  made  and  of  poor 
design.  The  prettiest  I  have  ever  seen  were  in 
Canton,  where  superb  samples  of  carved  sandal- 
wood  and  ivory  can  be  procured  at  a  very  reason- 
able price.  But  Canton  is  far  ahead  of  the  capital 
in  manufactures,  and  its  inhabitants  possess  a  keen 
commercial  instinct.  Its  proximity  to  Hong  Kong 
and  the  constant  intercourse  with  foreigners  have 
sharpened  their  trading  faculties,  and  there  are  few 
smarter  business  men  than  the  Canton  shopkeeper. 

Strolling  along  the  street  we  reached  a  market- 
place filled  with  open  booths,  in  which  food  of 
all  kinds  was  exposed  for  sale.  Dried  ducks,  split 
open  and  skewered,  hung  beside  sucking  -  pigs. 
Buckets  of  water  filled  with  wriggling  eels  stood 
on  the  ground.  Salt  fish,  meat,  and  vegetables  lay 
on  the  stalls,  which  were  surrounded  by  a  chaffering 
crowd.  Sellers  and  buyers  argued  vehemently,  and 
the  din  of  the  bargaining  so  dear  to  the  Oriental 
heart  filled  the  street.  Women,  with  oiled  hair 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  107 

twisted  into  curious  shapes  and  wound  round  long, 
flat  combs  that  stood  out  six  inches  on  either 
side  of  the  back  of  their  heads,  toddled  up  on  tiny, 
maimed  feet,  and  plunged  into  heated  discussions 
with  the  dealers.  Beggars  exhibited  their  hideous 
deformities  to  excite  the  pity  of  the  crowd,  and 
clutched  insolently  at  the  dresses  of  the  passers-by 
to  demand  charity. 

Close  by,  a  group  of  urchins  drew  water  from 
a  well.  It  was  in  the  middle  of  the  side- walk, 
and  was  covered  with  a  large  stone  slab,  pierced 
with  four  holes  only  just  large  enough  to  permit 
of  the  passage  of  the  buckets. 

On  our  way  back  to  Chong  Wong  Foo  that 
afternoon  we  passed  close  to  the  Legation  quarter, 
and  stopped  to  watch  the  progress  of  the  wall 
which  was  being  built  around  it  as  a  protection 
against  future  attacks.  It  is  simply  a  high  wall 
constructed  of  the  enormous  Pekin  bricks,  easily 
defensible  against  infantry  attack,  but  I  should 
doubt  if  it  would  long  resist  artillery  fire. 

The  most  famous  place  of  Buddhist  worship  in 
Pekin  is  the  Great  Lama  Temple,  which  was, 
perhaps,  the  wealthiest  monastery  in  China  until 
Buddhism  fell  out  of  fashion.  As  it  is  still  well 
worthy  of  a  visit,  I  made  an  excursion  to  it  one 
day  in  company  with  a  small  party.  The  monks 
had  the  reputation  of  being  extremely  hostile  to 
foreigners ;  and  although  Europeans  could  now  go 
in  safety  to  most  places  in  the  capital,  I  was 


io8          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

warned  not  to  venture  on  a  visit  to  this  temple 
alone. 

Outside  the  principal  entrance  stands  a  fine 
specimen  of  those  curious  Chinese  structures,  half 
gateway,  half  triumphal  arch.  The  lower  portion 
was  of  stone,  the  superstructure  of  wood.  It  was 
crowned  with  three  small  towers,  roofed  with 
yellow  tiles,  and  painted  with  gaudy  designs  in 
glaring  colours.  On  either  side,  on  stone  pedestals, 
were  enormous  lions  that  looked  like  the  nightmare 
creations  of  a  demon-possessed  artist.  On  passing 
through  the  front  gate,  we  found  ourselves  in  a 
paved  courtyard  surrounded  by  low,  one-storied 
temples  standing  on  raised  verandahs.  In  the 
centre  was  a  double-roofed  square  belfry  with  a 
small  gate  in  each  side.  On  entering  the  court 
we  were  at  once  surrounded  by  a  clamorous  crowd 
of  shaven-headed,  yello  .v-robed  men  of  a  villainous 
type  of  countenance.  These  were  the  famous — 
or  infamous — Buddhist  monks.  Their  dress  con- 
sisted of  a  long,  yellow  linen  gown,  confined  at 
the  waist  by  a  sash,  trousers,  white  socks,  and 
felt-soled  shoes.  A  more  repulsive  set  of  scoundrels 
I  have  never  seen.  Their  former  truculence  was 
now  replaced  by  a  cringing  servility.  They 
crowded  round  us,  demanding  alms,  or,  holding 
out  handfuls  of  small  coins,  offered  to  change  our 
good  silver  dollars  into  bad  five-  and  ten  -  cent 
pieces.  Since  Buddhism  has  ceased  to  be  the 
fashionable  religion  in  China,  its  ministers  have 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  109 

fallen  upon  evil  times,  and  subsist  on  charity  and 
the  offerings  of  the  comparatively  few  followers 
of  their  creed.  So  visitors  are  vociferously  assailed 
for  alms ;  and  the  wily  monks,  with  a  keen  eye 
to  business,  had  hit  upon  the  idea  of  making  a 
little  money  by  tendering  small  coins  of  a  debased 
currency  in  change  for  good  silver  pieces. 
Shouldering  the  clamorous  crowd  aside,  our  in- 
terpreter seized  on  one  ancient  priest  to  act  as 
our  guide.  This  worthy  cleric  aided  us  to  drive 
off  his  importunate  fellows,  and  led  us  through 
several  courts  to  the  principal  temple.  Like  all 
the  other  buildings  around,  it  was  covered  with  a 
quaint,  yellow-tiled  roof,  and  on  the  corners  of 
the  gables  and  the  projecting  eaves  were  weird 
porcelain  monsters ;  while  below  hung  small  bells, 
which  clanked  dismally  when  moved  by  the  wind. 
The  temple  was  high  and  the  interior  particularly 
large  and  lofty ;  for  it  contained  a  colossal  image 
of  Buddha,  seated  in  the  traditional  posture,  with 
crossed  legs  and  hands  holding  the  lotus  flower 
and  other  sacred  emblems.  On  its  face  was  the 
abstracted  expression  of  weary  calm  that  is 
supposed  to  represent  the  attainment  of  Nirvana 
— content.  Stairs  led  up  to  galleries  passing  round 
the  interior  of  the  building  to  the  level  of  the 
head  of  the  deity,  so  that  one  could  gaze  into 
his  countenance  at  close  range.  The  statue  is  not 
so  large  or  artistically  so  meritorious  as  the  similar 
images  of  Daibutsu  at  Kamakura  or  Hiogo  in 


i  io          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Japan,  each  of  which  is  hollow  and  contains  a 
temple  in  its  interior.  On  the  walls  of  the  stair- 
case, ranged  on  shelves,  were  thousands  of  little 
clay  gods,  crudely  fashioned  and  painted.  Our 
priestly  guide  refused  to  sell  us  any  of  these 
figures,  though  evidently  sorely  tempted  by  the 
sight  of  the  almighty  dollar.  He  evidently  re- 
frained from  doing  so  only  through  fear  of  being 
found  out,  not  through  any  respect  for  his  sacred 
images.  Having  gazed  into  Buddha's  face  and 
vainly  endeavoured  to  experience  the  feeling  of 
rapture  that  it  is  supposed  to  produce,  we  passed 
out  to  a  balcony  that  ran  round  the  exterior  of 
the  building.  We  were  high  up  above  the  ground, 
and  we  looked  down  upon  the  jumble  of  quaint, 
yellow  gables,  the  courtyards  with  their  lounging 
groups  of  bullet-headed  priests,  and  away  over  the 
panorama  of  Pekin  to  where  the  tall  buildings  of 
the  Imperial  city  rose  above  a  sea  of  low  roofs. 

On  descending  again  into  the  temple,  we  looked 
at  the  altars  with  tawdry  ornaments,  artificial 
flowers,  faded  hangings,  and  fantastic  gods,  and 
then  passed  out  to  the  court.  Our  guide,  having 
extracted  alms  from  us,  led  us  to  another  but 
smaller  temple,  and  handed  us  over  to  its  custodian 
priest,  who  unlocked  the  door  and  led  us  within. 
Round  the  walls  were  life-sized  gilt  images — all 
of  one  design,  and  an  exceedingly  indecent  design 
it  was ;  and  we  had  little  respect  for  the  morals 
of  the  ancient  Chinese  deified  hero  it  represented. 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  in 

After  visiting  several  other  buildings  containing 
little  of  interest,  we  induced  some  of  the  monks 
to  let  us  photograph  them.  They  were  pleased 
and  flattered  at  the  idea,  and  posed  readily ;  indeed, 
one  who  had  been  standing  at  the  other  side  of  the 
courtyard,  seeing  what  was  going  on,  rushed  across 
and  insisted  on  joining  the  group,  anxious  that  his 
features,  too,  should  be  handed  down  to  posterity. 
Throwing  them  a  handful  of  small  coins,  which 
caused  a  very  undignified  scramble,  we  passed  out 
of  the  gate.  Seating  ourselves  in  our  rickshas,  we 
drove  to  the  Temple  of  Confucius,  close  by.  It 
is  devoted  to  the  present  Chinese  faith,  which  is  a 
mixture  of  ancestor-worship  and  Confucianism,  and 
consists  of  several  buildings  standing  in  pretty, 
tree-shaded  courts.  The  main  temple  contains  long 
altars,  on  which  are  nothing  but  tablets  with 
Chinese  inscriptions — maxims  of  the  worthy  sage. 
Larger  tablets  hang  on  the  walls.  Confucian 
chapels  are  not  interesting ;  and  we  were  dis- 
appointed at  the  bareness  of  the  interior.  Similar 
but  smaller  buildings  stood  at  the  end  of  avenues 
in  the  grounds,  but  none  repaid  a  visit. 

The  cloisonn^  of  Pekin  is  famous,  and  specimens 
of  it  command  a  good  price  throughout  China.  It 
is,  however,  decidedly  inferior  to  Japanese  work, 
which  is  much  better  finished  and  of  far  greater 
artistic  merit.  As  I  had  never  seen  how  the  cloi- 
sonnd  is  made,  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  principal  factory 
in  the  capital.  I  was  received  by  the  proprietor,  a 


ii2          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

very  amiable  old  gentleman,  who  took  our  party 
round  his  establishment  and  showed  us  the  process 
through  all  the  stages  from  the  raw  material  to  the 
finished  article.  The  place  consisted  of  a  number 
of  small  Chinese  houses,  some  of  which  served  as 
workshops,  some  were  fitted  up  with  furnaces  for 
firing,  others  occupied  as  residences  by  the  em- 
ployees and  their  families.  In  the  first  courtyard 
two  men  were  seated  before  a  small  table,  making 
European  cigarette  cases.  In  front  of  them  lay  the 
design  to  be  reproduced,  flanked  by  small  saucers 
containing  liquid  enamel  of  various  colours  and  tiny 
brushes.  One  man  held  a  square  plate  of  copper, 
and  with  a  sharp  scissors  cut  very  thin  strips  from 
its  edges.  These  he  seized  with  a  pair  of  pincers 
and  deftly  bent  and  twisted  them  into  patterns  to 
correspond  with  the  lines  of  the  design  before  him. 
They  were  then  fixed  on  to  the  side  of  the  case 
with  some  adhesive  mixture.  As  soon  as  they 
were  firm,  the  other  man  filled  in  the  spaces  be- 
tween these  raised  lines  with  the  coloured  enamels 
by  means  of  a  fine  brush.  The  work  was  then 
left  to  dry  before  being  fired  in  the  furnaces  to 
fix  the  colours.  With  their  rude  instruments  these 
artists — for  such  they  were — fashioned  the  most 
complicated  designs  of  foliage,  flowers,  or  dragons 
with  a  marvellous  dexterity,  judging  altogether  by 
eye,  and  never  deviating  by  a  hair's  breadth  from  the 
pattern  given  them.  We  entered  a  room,  in  which 
others  sat  round  long  tables,  fastening  designs  on 


RAMBLES   IN   PEKIN  113 

• 

copper  vases,  plates,  or  bowls.  Ornaments  of  all 
kinds,  napkin-rings,  and  crucifixes — these,  needless 
to  say,  for  foreigners — were  being  made.  Show- 
cases with  specimens  of  the  finished  work  stood 
round  the  walls,  and  the  proprietor  exhibited  with 
pardonable  pride  the  triumphs  of  his  art.  With 
rude  appliances  in  dimly-lit  rooms,  these  ignorant 
Chinese  workmen  had  achieved  gems  that  the 
European  artist  could  not  excel. 

He  then  showed  us  the  large  blocks  of  the  raw 
stone  which  had  to  be  ground  up  to  form  the 
enamel,  and  explained  the  processes  it  had  to  under- 
go before  it  became  the  brightly  coloured  paste  that 
filled  the  saucers  on  the  tables.  We  were  then 
shown  articles  being  placed  in  the  furnaces  or 
withdrawn  when  the  firing  was  complete.  Before 
leaving  we  purchased  some  specimens  of  the  work 
as  souvenirs  of  an  interesting  visit,  and  bade  good- 
bye to  the  grateful  proprietor. 

Such  were  our  rambles  through  the  vastness  of 
that  wonderful  city  so  long  a  mystery  to  the  outside 
world.  Even  in  these  days  of  universal  knowledge 
its  inmost  recesses  were  a  secret  till  fire  and  sword 
burst  all  barriers  and  the  victorious  foreigner  ranged 
where  he  listed.  The  gates  of  palace  and  temple 
flew  open  to  the  touch  of  his  rifle-butt.  The  abodes 
of  monarch,  prince,  and  priest  sheltered  the  soldiers 
of  the  conquerors,  and  the  proudest  mandarin  drew 
humbly  aside  to  let  the  meanest  camp-follower  pass. 

To  me  the  most  fascinating  spectacle  in  Pekin 


ii4          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

was  the  ever-changing  life  of  the  streets.  The  end- 
less procession  of  strange  vehicles,  from  the  ricksha 
to  the  curious  wheelbarrow  that  is  a  universal  form 
of  conveyance  for  passengers  or  goods  on  the 
narrow  roads  of  North  China.  The  motley  crowds 
— Manchu,  Tartar,  white  man,  black,  and  yellow, 
dainty,  painted  lady  of  high  rank  and  humble  coolie 
woman,  shaven-crowned  monk  and  long-queued 
layman,  all  formed  a  moving  picture  unequalled 
in  any  city  in  the  world.  And  above  their  heads 
floated  the  flags  of  the  conquering  nations  that  had 
banded  together  from  the  ends  of  the  earth  to 
humble  the  pride  of  China. 


CHAPTER  VI 
THE  SUMMER  PALACE 

EIGHT  or  ten  miles  from  Pekin  lies  the  loveliest 
spot  in  all  North  China,  the  Summer  Palace, 
the  property  of  the  Empress -Do  wager.  When 
burning  heat  and  scorching  winds  render  life  in 
the  capital  unbearable,  when  dust-storms  sweep 
through  the  unpaved  streets  and  a  pitiless  sun 
blazes  on  the  crowded  city,  the  virtual  ruler  of 
China  betakes  her  to  her  summer  residence  among 
the  hills,  and  there  weaves  the  web  of  plots  that 
convulse  the  world.  When  the  feeble  monarch  of 
that  vast  Empire  ventured  to  dream  of  reforms  that 
would  eventually  bring  his  realm  into  line  with 
modern  civilisation,  the  imperious  old  lady  seized 
her  nominal  sovereign  and  imprisoned  him  there 
in  the  heart  of  her  rambling  country  abode.  Twice, 
now,  in  its  history  has  the  Summer  Palace  fallen 
into  the  hands  of  European  armies.  English  and 
French  have  lorded  it  in  the  paved  courts  before  ever 
its  painted  pavilions  had  seen  the  white  blouses  of 
Cossacks  or  the  fluttering  plumes  of  the  Bersagliere ; 
when  Japan  was  but  a  name,  and  none  dreamt  that 
the  little  islands  of  the  Far  East  would  one  day  send 


ii6          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

their  gallant  soldiers  to  stand  shoulder  to  shoulder 
with  the  veterans  of  Europe  in  a  common  cause. 

Passed  from  the  charge  of  one  foreign  contingent 
to  another  in  this  last  campaign,  the  Summer  Palace 
was  at  length  entrusted  to  the  care  of  the  British 
and  Italians.  Desirous  of  visiting  a  spot  renowned 
for  its  natural  beauty  as  for  its  historical  interest, 
a  party  of  us  sought  and  obtained  permission  to 
inspect  it.  And  so  one  morning  we  stood  in  the 
principal  courtyard  of  Chong  Wong  Foo  and 
watched  a  procession  of  sturdy  Chinese  ponies 
being  led  up  for  us.  The  refractory  little  brutes 
protested  vehemently  against  the  indignity  of  being 
bestridden  by  foreigners  ;  and  all  the  subtlety  of 
their  grooms  was  required  to  induce  them  to  stand 
still  long  enough  for  us  to  spring  into  the  saddles. 
And  then  the  real  struggle  began.  One  gave  a 
spirited  imitation  of  an  Australian  buckjumper. 
Another  endeavoured  to  remove  his  rider  by  the 
simpler  process  of  scraping  his  leg  against  the 
nearest  wall.  A  third,  deaf  to  all  threats  or  en- 
treaties, refused  to  move  a  step  in  any  direction, 
until  repeated  applications  of  whip  and  spurs  at 
length  resulted  in  his  bolting  out  of  the  gate  and 
down  the  road.  After  a  preliminary  circus  perform- 
ance, our  steeds  finally  determined  to  make  the  best 
of  a  bad  job ;  and,  headed  by  a  guide,  we  set  out  for 
the  palace. 

Our  way  lay  at  first  through  a  very  unsavoury 
part  of  the  capital.  Evil-smelling  alleys,  bordered 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  117 

by  open  drains  choked  with  the  refuse  of  the 
neighbouring  houses ;  narrow  lanes  deep  in  mire ; 
squalid  streets  of  tumbledown  hovels — the  worst 
slums  of  Pekin.  Gaunt  and  haggard  men  scowled 
at  us  from  the  low  doorways ;  naked  and  dirty 
babies  sprawled  on  the  footpaths  and  lisped  an 
infantine  abuse  of  the  foreign  devils ;  slatternly 
women  stared  at  us  with  lack-lustre  eyes ;  and 
loathsome  cripples  shouted  for  charity.  Splashing 
through  pools  of  filthy  water,  dodging  between  carts 
in  the  narrow  thoroughfares,  we  could  proceed  but 
slowly.  The  heat  and  stench  in  these  close  and 
fetid  lanes  were  overpowering,  and  it  was  an  intense 
relief  to  emerge  at  last  on  one  of  the  broad  streets 
that  pierce  the  city  and  which  led  us  to  a  gateway 
in  the  wall.  One  leaf  of  the  wooden  doors  lay  on 
the  ground,  the  other  was  hanging  half  off  its  hinges. 
Both  were  splintered  and  torn,  for  they  had  been 
burst  open  by  the  explosion  of  a  mine  at  the  taking 
of  Pekin.  The  many-windowed  tower  above  was 
roofless  and  shattered.  On  either  hand,  on  the 
outer  face  of  the  wall,  deep  dints  and  scars  showed 
where  the  Japanese  shells  had  rained  upon  them 
in  the  early  hours  of  that  August  morning,  when 
the  gallant  soldiers  of  Dai  Nippon*  had  come  to  the 
rescue  of  the  hard-pressed  Muscovites. 

When  the  Allied  Armies  arrived  at  Tung-Chow, 
thirteen  miles  from  Pekin,  a  council  of  war  was  held 
by  the  generals  on  the  i3th  August,  at  which  it  was 

*  Japan. 


n8          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

decided  that  the  troops  should  halt  there  on  the 
following  day,  to  rest  and  prepare  for  the  attack  on 
the  capital  which  was  settled  for  the  i5th.  For 
the  stoutest  hearts  may  well  have  quailed  at  the 
task  before  them.  A  cavalry  reconnaissance  from 
each  army  was  to  be  made  on  the  I3th,  with  orders 
to  halt  three  miles  from  Pekin  and  wait  there  for 
their  main  bodies  to  reach  them  on  the  i4th. 

But  the  Russian  reconnoitring  party,  eager  to 
be  the  first  into  the  city  and  establish  their  claim 
to  be  its  real  captors,  pushed  on  right  up  to  the 
walls  and  attacked  the  Tung  Pien  gate.  They 
thus  upset  the  plans  for  a  concerted  attack,  and 
precipitated  a  disjointed  and  indiscriminate  assault. 
For  they  stumbled  on  a  far  more  difficult  task  than 
they  had  anticipated,  and  it  was  indeed  fortunate 
for  the  wily  Muscovites  that  the  Japanese,  probably 
suspicious  of  their  intentions,  were  not  far  off.  For 
the  Chinese  flocked  to  the  threatened  spot  and 
from  the  comparative  safety  of  the  wall  poured 
a  devastating  fire  upon  the  Russians.  The  fiercest 
efforts  of  their  stormers  were  unavailing.  General 
Vasilievski  fell  wounded.  In  vain  the  bravest 
officers  of  the  Czar  led  their  men  forward  in 
desperate  assaults.  Baffled  and  beaten,  they  re- 
coiled in  impotent  fury.  Retreat  or  annihilation 
seemed  the  only  alternatives ;  when  the  Japanese 
troops  attacked  the  Tong  Chih  gate.  There,  too, 
a  terrible  task  awaited  the  assailants.  Again  and 
again  heroic  volunteers  rushed  forward  to  lay  a 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  119 

mine  against  the  ponderous  doors,  only  to  fall 
lifeless  under  the  murderous  fire  of  the  defenders. 
But  the  soldiers  of  the  Land  of  the  Rising  Sun 
admit  no  defeat.  As  men  dropped  dead,  others 
stepped  forward  and  took  the  fuses  from  the  nerve- 
less fingers.  The  gate  was  at  length  blown  open. 
Fierce  as  panthers,  the  gallant  Japanese  poured 
into  the  doomed  city.  The  pressure  relieved,  the 
Russians  again  advanced  to  the  assault.  An  entry 
was  effected  at  last ;  and,  furious  at  their  losses, 
they  raged  through  the  streets,  dealing  death  with 
a  merciless  hand,  heedless  of  age  or  sex. 

Meanwhile  the  other  Allies,  roused  by  the  sound 
of  heavy  firing,  were  lost  in  amazement  as  to  its 
meaning ;  and  dawn  came  before  the  truth  was 
known.  The  British  and  Americans  then  attacked 
the  Chinese  city  and  met  with  a  less  stubborn 
resistance.  An  entry  effected,  the  Indian  troops 
wandered  through  the  maze  of  streets  until  met 
by  a  messenger  sent  out  from  the  Legations  to 
guide  them.  He  led  them  through  the  water- 
gate,  the  tunnel  in  the  wall  between  the  Tartar 
and  the  Chinese  city,  which  serves  as  an  exit  for 
the  drain  or  nullah  passing  between  the  English 
and  the  Japanese  Legations,  and  so  right  into 
the  arms  of  the  besieged  Europeans.  Thus  they 
arrived  first  to  the  relief,  while  the  Japanese  and 
Russians  were  still  fighting  in  the  streets.  But 
every  nation  whose  army  was  represented  in  the 
Allied  Forces  claims  the  credit  of  being  foremost 


120          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

of  all  into  the  Legations.  I  have  read  the  diary 
of  the  commander  of  the  Russian  marines  in  the 
siege,  in  which  he  speaks  of  the  arrival  of  the 
Czar's  troops  to  the  relief  and  completely  ignores 
the  presence  of  the  other  Allies.  And  in  pictures  that 
I  have  seen  in  Japan  of  the  entry  of  the  relievers, 
the  besieged  are  shown  rushing  out  to  throw  them- 
selves on  the  necks  of  the  victorious  Japanese, 
whose  uniform  is  the  only  one  represented.  But, 
while  the  brunt  of  the  fighting  fell  on  them  and  the 
Russians,  the  Indian  troops  were  actually  the  first 
to  reach  the  Legations. 

As  we  rode  up  to  the  gate  through  which  the 
soldiers  of  Japan  had  fought  their  way  so  gallantly, 
a  guard  of  their  sturdy  little  infantrymen  at  it 
sprang  to  attention.  For  it  and  the  quarter  near 
was  in  the  charge  of  their  contingent,  and  their 
flag,  with  its  red  ball  on  a  white  ground,  was  to 
be  seen  everywhere  around.  The  sentry  brought 
his  rifle  to  the  present  with  the  jerky  movement 
and  wooden  precision  of  an  automatic  figure. 
Returning  the  salute,  we  clattered  through  the 
long  tunnel  of  the  gateway  and  emerged  beyond 
the  walls  of  the  city. 

Here  began  a  wide  road,  paved  with  large  stone 
flags,  which  runs  for  an  immense  distance  through 
the  country,  stopping  short  at  the  threshold  of  the 
capital.  It  was  bordered  in  places  by  hedges  of 
graceful  bamboos  with  their  long  feathery  leaves. 
Elsewhere  a  narrow  ditch  divided  the  roadway 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  121 

from  the  fertile  fields,  where  tall  crops  of  kowliang 
(a  species  of  millet)  rose  higher  than  a  mounted 
man's  head,  almost  completely  hiding  the  houses 
of  tiny  hamlets.  Over  the  stone  flags,  sparks 
flashing  from  under  our  ponies'  hoofs,  we  clattered 
past  crowds  of  coolies  trudging  towards  the  city, 
long  lines  of  roughly  built  carts  laden  with  country 
produce,  or  an  occasional  long -queued  farmer 
perched  on  the  back  of  his  diminutive  steed. 

By  fields  of  waving  grain,  past  groves  of  thick- 
foliaged  trees,  through  trim  villages  that  showed 
no  trace  of  the  storm  that  had  swept  so  close  to 
them.  But  here  and  there  signs  of  it  were  not 
wanting.  A  wayside  temple  stood  with  fire-scorched 
walls  and  broken  roof.  On  the  threshold  lay  the 
shattered  fragments  of  the  images  that  had  once 
adorned  its  shrine.  But  from  the  doorways  of  the 
houses  we  passed  the  inhabitants  looked  out  at  us 
with  never  a  vestige  of  fear  or  hate,  and  as  little 
interest.  In  the  stream  of  travellers  setting  to- 
wards Pekin  came  a  patrol  of  Bengal  Lancers, 
spear-point  and  scabbard  flashing  in  the  sun  as 
they  rode  along  with  the  easy  grace  of  the  Indian 
cavalryman,  their  tall  chargers  towering  above  our 
small  Chinese  ponies  as  the  sowars  saluted.  Farther 
on  we  passed  two  men  of  the  German  Mounted 
Infantry,  their  tiny  steeds  half  hidden  under  huge 
dragoon  saddles.  A  brown  dot  in  the  distance 
resolved  itself  into  a  British  officer  as  we  drew  near. 
He  was  Major  De  Boulay,  R.A.,  who  had  charge  of 


122  THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

the  treasures  of  the  Summer  Palace.  For  when 
the  English  took  the  place  over  these  were  collected 
and  locked  up  for  safe  keeping  in  large  storehouses. 
When  the  palace  was  handed  back  to  the  Chinese, 
the  Court  sent  a  special  letter  of  thanks  to  this 
officer  for  his  careful  custody  of  the  valuables.  This 
campaign  was  not  Major  De  Boulay's  first  experi- 
ence of  the  Far  East.  As  an  authority  on  the 
Japanese  army,  when  few  in  Europe  suspected  its 
real  efficiency  as  a  fighting  machine,  he  had  been  ap- 
pointed military  attache"  to  it  when  it  first  astonished 
the  world  in  the  China- Japan  War ;  and  he  accom- 
panied the  troops  that  made  the  daring  march  that 
ended  in  the  capture  of  Wei-hai-wei. 

Our  meeting  him  on  his  way  in  to  Pekin  was  a 
distinct  disappointment  to  us ;  for  the  keys  of  the 
godowns  in  which  the  treasures  of  the  palace  were 
stored  never  left  his  keeping,  and  in  his  absence  we 
had  no  chance  of  seeing  them.  With  many  expres- 
sions of  regret  for  this  unfortunate  circumstance,  he 
continued  on  his  way  to  the  capital. 

Trotting  on,  we  reached  a  long  village  bordering 
the  road  on  each  side.  It  was  quite  a  populous  and 
thriving  place.  The  inhabitants  looked  sleek  and 
content ;  and  shops  stocked  with  gay  garments  or 
weird  forms  of  food  abounded.  Half-way  down  on 
the  left-hand  side  a  narrow  lane  led  off  from  the 
highway.  At  the  corner  stood  a  sign-post  with  the 
words,  "Au  palais  de  l'6teV'  It  was  our  road.  We 
turned  our  ponies  down  it,  nothing  loth,  I  warrant, 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  123 

to  exchange  the  hard  stone  flags  for  the  soft  ground 
now  underfoot.  We  were  soon  clear  of  the  houses 
and  among  the  fields.  Passing  a  belt  of  trees  that 
had  hitherto  obstructed  our  view,  we  saw  ahead  of 
us  a  long  stretch  of  low,  dark  hills.  Far  away  to 
our  left  front,  from  a  prominent  knoll  a  tall,  slender 
pagoda  rose  up  boldly  to  the  sky,  and  straight 
before  us,  standing  out  on  the  face  of  the  hills,  was 
a  confused  mass  of  buildings — the  Summer  Palace. 
We  broke  into  a  brisk  canter,  the  canter  became  a 
gallop,  and  we  raced  towards  our  goal.  As  we 
drew  nearer,  and  could  more  clearly  distinguish  the 
aspect  of  the  buildings,  we  slackened  speed.  On 
the  summit  was  a  temple  which,  so  one  of  our 
party  who  had  visited  the  place  before  told  us,  was 
known  as  the  Hall  of  Ten  Thousand  Ages.  Below 
it  stood  a  curious  circular  edifice,  with  a  triple  yellow 
roof.  It  was  built  on  a  huge  square  foundation,  on 
the  face  of  which  were  the  lines  of  a  diamond- 
shaped  figure.  These  we  afterwards  found  to  be 
diagonal  staircases  ascending  to  the  superstructure 
which  was  the  Empress -Dowager's  own  particular 
temple.  Trees  hid  the  lower  portion  and  concealed 
from  our  view  a  lovely  lake  that  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills.  Passing  onwards  by  a  high-walled  en- 
closure, we  reached  a  wide  open  space,  at  the  far 
end  of  which  were  the  buildings  of  the  palace 
proper.  Out  in  the  centre  of  it  stood  one  of  those 
Chinese  paradoxes — a  gateway  without  a  wall,  similar 
to  the  one  at  the  Great  Lama  Temple.  It  was 


i24          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

gaily  painted  with  weird  designs  in  bright  colours. 
We  rode  past  it  and  reached  the  entrance  to  the 
outer  courtyard.  At  it  was  a  guard  of  an  Indian 
infantry  regiment  which  was  quartered  in  the 
Summer  Palace.  Dismounting,  we  passed  through 
the  gate  and  found  ourselves  in  a  large  court. 
Facing  us  was  a  long,  low  building  of  the  conven- 
tional Chinese  type.  It  was  a  temple.  On  the 
verandah  stood  large  bronze  storks  and  dragons. 
We  had  seen  too  many  similar  joss-houses  to  care 
to  visit  it ;  so  we  secured  a  sepoy  to  guide  us 
through  the  labyrinth  of  courts  to  the  pavilion 
that  was  occupied  as  a  mess  by  the  officers  of  the 
troops  garrisoning  the  palace  —  a  British  Field 
Battery  and  the  Indian  regiment.  Here  we  were 
warmly  welcomed  and  ushered  into  a  building  of 
particular  historical  interest;  for  in  this  very  pavilion 
the  Emperor  had  been  confined. 

The  interior  was  elaborately  furnished.  Large 
mirrors  covered  the  walls.  Marble-topped  tables 
with  the  inevitable  clocks  and  vases  of  artificial 
flowers  were  placed  round  the  sides.  European 
chairs  and  Chinese  blackwood  stools  stood  about 
in  curious  contrast.  But  the  piece  de  resistance  was 
a  lovely  screen.  An  inner  chamber  was  used  as  a 
mess-room ;  and  a  long  table  covered  with  a  white 
cloth,  on  which  stood  common  Delft  plates  and  glass 
tumblers,  looked  out  of  keeping  with  the  surround- 
ings. But,  more  regardful  of  the  thirst  induced  by 
a  hot  ride  than  artistic  proprieties,  we  threw  our- 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  125 

selves  into  comfortable  chairs  and  quaffed  a  much- 
needed,  cooling  drink. 

In  front  of  the  pavilion  was  a  square,  paved  yard, 
in  which  stood  a  curious  scaffolding  of  gaily  painted 
poles,  which  had  served  to  spread  an  awning  above 
the  court.  For  here  the  imprisoned  Emperor  had 
been  permitted  to  walk ;  and  as  we  sat  on  the 
verandah  and  gave  our  hosts  the  latest  news  of 
Pekin,  we  gazed  with  interest  on  the  confined  space 
in  which  the  monarch  of  the  vast  Empire  of  China 
had  paced  in  weary  anticipation  of  his  fate. 

As  it  wanted  an  hour  or  two  to  lunch-time,  one 
of  the  officers  of  the  garrison  volunteered  to  guide 
us  round  the  palace.  We  eagerly  accepted  his 
offer  and  were  led  out  into  a  maze  of  courts  sur- 
rounded by  low  houses.  He  brought  us  first  to  his 
quarters  in  a  long,  two-storied  building.  From  the 
upper  windows  on  the  far  side  a  lovely  view  lay 
spread  before  our  eyes.  Below  the  house  was  a 
large  lake,  confined  by  a  marble  wall  and  balustrade 
that  passed  all  round  it.  Close  to  us,  on  the  right, 
the  long,  tree-clad  hill,  on  which  stood  the  Empress- 
Dowager's  temple  and  the  Hall  of  Ten  Thousand 
Ages,  rose  almost  from  the  brink.  To  the  left  a 
graceful,  many-arched  bridge  stretched  from  the 
bank  to  a  tiny  island  far  out  in  the  placid  water. 
On  it  stood  a  small  pavilion.  Near  the  shore  a 
flotilla  of  boats  was  anchored.  It  comprised 
foreign -designed  barges,  dinghies,  and  a  half- 
sunken  steam  launch.  Patches  of  lotus  leaves  lay 


126          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

on  the  tranquil  surface.  And  away,  far  beyond  the 
lake,  a  line  of  rugged  and  barren  hills  rose  up  from 
the  plain. 

Emerging  from  the  building,  we  walked  along  by 
the  low  wall  and  carved  balustrade  bounding  the 
water,  towards  the  side  above  which  stood  the 
Empress- Dowager's  temple.  At  the  corner  of  the 
lake  was  a  gateway,  at  which  stood  a  guard  of 
Bersagliere,  clad  in  white  with  cocks'  feathers 
fluttering  gaily  in  their  tropical  helmets.  The 
Italians,  as  I  have  said,  were  joined  with  the 
English  in  the  charge  of  the  Summer  Palace. 
Returning  the  sentry's  salute,  we  passed  on  and 
found  a  roofed  and  open-pillared  gallery  running 
along  beside  the  lake.  Its  shelter  was  grateful  in 
the  burning  sun ;  for  the  breeze  was  cut  off  by  the 
hill  that  rose  almost  perpendicularly  above  us. 
The  slender,  wooden  columns  supporting  the  tiled 
roof  were  painted  in  brightly  coloured  designs. 
On  the  cornices  were  miniature  pictures  of  con- 
ventional Chinese  scenery.  Here  and  there  the 
gallery  widened  out  or  passed  close  to  pretty  little 
summer-houses  built  above  the  wall  of  the  lake. 
We  reached  the  square  white  mass  of  masonry  on 
which  stood  the  temple.  Before  it  massive  gates, 
guarded  by  bronze  lions,  opened  on  a  broad  stair- 
case leading  to  the  foot  of  the  substructure.  But 
reserving  the  sacred  edifice,  which  towered  above 
us  at  an  appalling  height,  for  a  later  visit  after 
lunch,  we  passed  on  around  the  lake  until  we 


A   STREET    IN    THE   TARTAR    CITY,    PEKIN,    AFTER    HEAVY    RAIN 


THE   MARBLE  JUNK 


[page  127 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  127 

reached  the  strangest  construction  in  the  Summer 
Palace. 

One  of  the  former  Empresses,  whose  life  had 
been  passed  far  from  the  sea,  complained  that  she 
had  never  beheld  a  ship.  So  a  cunning  architect 
was  found,  who  built  in  the  lake  close  to  the  bank 
an  enormous  marble  junk.  The  hull,  which  has 
ornamented  prow  and  stern  and  small  paddle-boxes, 
rests,  of  course,  on  the  bottom.  On  the  deck  he 
erected  a  large  two-storied  pavilion ;  but  as  the 
Chinese  are  seldom  thorough,  this  he  constructed 
of  wood  painted  to  look  like  marble.  It  formed 
an  ideal  and  picturesque  summer-house,  for  the 
sides,  between  the  pillars,  were  open  or  closed  only 
by  blinds.  But  at  the  time  of  our  visit  it  looked 
dismally  dilapidated ;  for  the  paint  was  blistered  and 
peeling  off.  The  Marble  Junk  resembles  a  white 
house-boat  at  Henley,  and  at  a  little  distance  across 
the  water  looks  quaint  and  graceful.  Close  to  it, 
spanning  a  small  stream  that  runs  into  the  lake,  is 
a  lovely  little  covered  bridge  with  carved  white 
marble  arches  and  parapets.  Venice  can  boast  no 
more  perfect  gem  of  art  on  its  canals. 

Our  conductor,  looking  at  his  watch,  tore  us 
from  our  contemplation  of  this  masterpiece  and 
insisted  on  our  returning  to  the  mess  for  lunch. 
And  in  the  pavilion  where  the  powerless  monarch 
of  a  mighty  empire  had  lain  a  helpless  prisoner,  a 
victim  to  the  intrigues  of  his  own  family,  British 
officers  sat  at  table ;  and  the  conversation  ranged 


128          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

from  the  events  of  the  campaign  to  sport  in  India 
or  criticisms  of  the  various  contingents  of  the 
Allied  Army. 

A  recent  occurrence,  thoroughly  typical  of  the 
readiness  with  which  the  Court  party  snatched  at 
every  opportunity  to  "save  face,"  was  alluded  to. 
The  British  Minister  in  Pekin,  at  the  humble 
request  of  Li  Hung  Chang,  who  was  negotiating 
about  the  return  of  the  Summer  Palace  to  the 
Chinese,  had  removed  the  Field  Battery  garrison- 
ing it  to  the  capital.  An  Imperial  Edict  was 
immediately  issued,  which  stated  in  grandiloquent 
terms  that  the  Emperor  had  ordered  this  removal. 
Sir  Ernest  Satow,  who  was  fast  proving  himself  a 
far  stronger  man  than  had  been  anticipated  and 
well  fitted  to  cope  with  Oriental  wiles,  promptly 
commanded  the  return  of  the  battery  as  the  fitting 
answer  to  this  impudent  declaration.  It  was  almost 
the  first  strong  action  taken  by  our  diplomats  in 
a  wearisome  series  of  "graceful  concessions";  and 
great  satisfaction  was  occasioned  among  the  officers 
of  the  British  forces,  who  hailed  it  as  a  hopeful 
prelude  to  a  firmer  policy. 

After  lunch  we  ascended  the  tree-clad  hill  on 
which  stood  the  Hall  of  Ten  Thousand  Ages. 
From  the  summit  a  beautiful  view  over  the  sur- 
rounding country  was  obtained.  Below  us  was  the 
confused  jumble  of  yellow-roofed  buildings  that 
constituted  the  residential  portion  of  the  Summer 
Palace.  At  our  feet  lay  the  gleaming  lake,  hemmed 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  129 

in  by  its  white  marble  walls,  the  tiny  island  united 
to  the  shore  by  the  graceful  arches  of  the  long 
bridge.  The  bright  roof  of  the  pretty  little 
pavilion  on  it  shone  in  the  brilliant  sunlight. 
Along  the  far  bank  stretched  a  tree-shaded  road 
that  ran  away  to  the  right  until  lost  in  thick  foliage 
or  fertile  fields.  A  thin  line  marked  the  crowded 
highway  to  the  capital.  The  plain  was  dotted  with 
villages  or  lay  in  a  chessboard-pattern  of  cultiva- 
tion interspersed  with  thickets  of  bamboos  or  dense 
groves  of  trees.  Far  away  the  tall  towers  of  the 
walls  of  Pekin  rose  up  above  the  level  sea  of  roofs, 
broken  only  by  the  lofty  buildings  of  the  Imperial 
city,  the  temples  or  the  residences  of  the  Euro- 
peans in  the  Legation  quarter.  Over  the  capital  a 
yellow  haze  of  smoke  and  dust  hung  like  a  golden 
canopy.  Away  to  the  right  lay  a  long  stretch  of 
dark  and  sombre  hills,  among  which  nestled  the 
summer  residence  of  the  members  of  the  British 
Legation.  Here  in  the  hot  months  they  hie  in 
search  of  cooling  breezes  not  to  be  obtained  in  the 
crowded  city. 

The  grandiloquently  named  Hall  of  Ten  Thou- 
sand Ages  was  a  rectangular,  solidly  constructed 
building  with  thick  walls.  But  inside  a  sad  scene 
of  ruin  met  our  eyes.  Enormous  fragments  of 
shattered  colossal  statues  choked  the  interior,  so 
that  one  could  not  pass  from  door  to  door.  Huge 
heads,  trunks,  and  limbs  lay  piled  in  fantastic  con- 
fusion. The  temple  had  contained  a  number  of 


130          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

giant  images  of  Buddha.  Some  troops,  on  occupy- 
ing the  palace,  had  been  informed  that  these  were 
hollow  and  filled  with  treasures  of  inestimable 
value.  The  tale  seemed  likely ;  so  dynamite  was 
invoked  to  force  them  to  reveal  their  hidden  secrets. 
The  colossal  gods  were  hurled  from  their  pedestals 
by  its  powerful  agency ;  and  their  ruins  were  eagerly 
searched  by  the  vandals.  But  it  was  found  that 
the  interiors  of  the  statues,  though  indeed  hollow, 
were  simply  modelled  to  correspond  with  the  in- 
ternal anatomy  of  a  human  being,  all  the  organs 
being  reproduced  in  silver  or  zinc.  And  the  gods 
were  sacrificed  in  vain  to  the  greed  of  the  spoilers. 

The  Empress -Do  wager's  temple  had  escaped 
such  rough  treatment,  as  it  held  nothing  that 
tempted  the  conquerors.  Under  its  huge  shadow 
lay  a  lovely  little  structure,  the  Bronze  Pagoda. 
On  a  white  marble  plinth  and  surrounded  by  a 
carved  balustrade  of  the  same  stone,  stood  a  deli- 
cately modelled,  tiny  temple  about  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  high.  Roof,  pillars,  walls — all  were  of  the  same 
valuable  material.  From  the  corners  of  the  spread- 
ing, upturned  eaves  hung  bells.  The  whole  struc- 
ture was  a  perfect  work  of  art ;  and  one  sighed  for 
a  miniature  replica  of  the  graceful  little  building. 

But  while  we  wandered  among  these  quaint 
temples  we  had  failed  to  notice  dark  masses  of 
clouds  that  had  gradually  climbed  up  from  the 
horizon  and  overcast  the  whole  sky.  One  of  the 
heavy  storms  of  a  North  China  summer  was 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE  131 

evidently  in  store  for  us.  So,  anxious  to  regain  the 
capital  before  it  could  break,  we  returned  to  the 
palace,  bade  a  hurried  farewell  to  our  kind  hosts, 
and  mounted  our  ponies.  Back  through  the  fields 
and  on  to  the  paved  highway  we  rode  at  a  steady 
pace,  our  ponies,  refreshed  by  the  long  halt  and 
eager  to  reach  their  stables,  trotting  out  willingly. 
The  storm  held  off,  and  as  we  came  in  view  of  the 
gate  of  Pekin,  we  congratulated  ourselves  on  our 
good  fortune.  But  suddenly,  without  a  moment's 
warning,  sheets  of  water  fell  from  the  dark  sky. 
In  went  our  spurs,  and  we  raced  madly  for  the 
shelter  of  the  gateway.  But  long  before  we 
reached  it  we  were  soaked  through  and  through. 
Our  boots  were  filled  with  water,  the  broad  brims 
of  our  pith  hats  hung  limply  over  our  eyes,  and  we 
were  as  thoroughly  wet  as  though  we  had  swum 
the  Peiho. 

Under  the  tunnelled  gateway  we  dismounted. 
The  water  simply  poured  from  us,  and  formed  in 
pools  on  the  stone  flags  where  we  stood.  We 
found  ourselves  in  a  damp  crowd  of  jostling,  grin- 
ning Chinamen,  who  were  cheerfully  wringing  the 
moisture  from  their  thin  cotton  garments  or  laugh- 
ing at  the  plight  of  others  caught  in  the  storm 
and  racing  for  shelter  through  the  ropes  of  rain. 
Coolies,  carts,  ponies,  mules,  and  camels  were  all 
huddled  together  under  the  archway.  Jests  and 
mirth  resounded  on  every  side ;  for  the  Celestial  is 
generally  a  veritable  Mark  Tapley  under  circum- 


132          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

stances   that  would  depress   or   irritate   the   more 
impatient  European. 

We  waited  for  an  hour  beside  our  shivering 
ponies  for  the  deluge  to  cease ;  then,  seeing  little 
prospect  of  it,  we  mounted  again  and  rode  on  into 
the  city.  But  short  as  was  the  time  the  rain  had 
lasted,  the  streets  were  already  almost  flooded. 
The  ditch-like  sides  were  half  filled  with  rushing, 
muddy  torrents ;  and  in  crossing  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal roads  the  water  rose  up  to  our  saddle-girths 
in  the  side  channels.  In  one  place  my  pony  was 
nearly  carried  off  his  feet  and  I  feared  that  I 
would  be  obliged  to  swim  for  it.  From  the  shelter 
of  the  verandahs  of  the  houses  along  the  streets 
crowds  of  Chinese  laughed  at  our  miserable  plight, 
as  our  small  steeds  splashed  through  the  pools  and 
their  riders  sat  huddled  up  in  misery  under  the 
pitiless  rain.  With  heartfelt  gratitude  we  reached 
at  last  the  welcome  shelter  of  Chong  Wong  Foo. 
So  ended  our  visit  to  the  famous  Summer  Palace, 
which  is  once  more  in  the  possession  of  its  former 
owner.  The  courts  that  echoed  to  the  ring  of 
artillery  horses'  hoofs,  the  rumble  of  our  gun- 
wheels,  the  deep  laughter  of  the  British  soldier,  or 
the  shriller  voices  of  his  sepoy  comrades,  are  now 
trodden  only  by  silent-footed  Celestials.  The  white 
man  is  no  more  a  welcome  guest. 


CHAPTER   VII 
A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN 

THE  railways  throughout  North  China  and 
Manchuria  were  originally  constructed  chiefly 
by  British  capital ;  and  England  had  consequently 
priority  of  claim  upon  them.  The  line  from  Pekin 
runs  first  to  the  sea  at  Tong-ku,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Peiho  River,  thence  branching  off  northward 
along  the  coast  to  Newchwang,  the  treaty  port  of 
Manchuria.  Its  continuation  passes  southward 
from  Newchwang  to  Port  Arthur.  At  the  begin- 
ning of  the  campaign  in  North  China  it  was  seized 
by  the  Russians  and  held  by  them  until  diplomatic 
pressure  loosened  their  grasp.  Instead  of  restor- 
ing it  direct  to  the  British,  they  handed  over  to 
the  Germans  the  railway  as  far  north  as  Shanhai- 
kwan,  a  town  on  the  coast  where  the  famous  Great 
Wall  of  China  ends  in  the  sea ;  but  they  retained 
in  their  own  possession  that  portion  between  Shan- 
haikwan  and  Newchwang.  The  Germans  then 
held  on  to  the  remainder  until  they  were  eventually 
restored  to  the  British. 

Shanhaikwan  thus  became  the  natural  boundary 
between    the    territory    under    the    sway    of    the 


134          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Russians  and  the  country  in  the  combined  occupa- 
tion of  the  Allies.  The  Czar's  servants  had  laid 
covetous  eyes  upon  it ;  for  its  position  and  a 
number  of  strong  and  well-armed  forts  which  had 
been  constructed  by  the  Chinese  rendered  it  an 
important  point  d'appui  whence  to  dominate  North 
China.  So  a  powerful  Russian  force  was  de- 
spatched by  land  to  seize  these  fortifications ;  but 
it  was  forestalled  by  the  smart  action  of  the 
British  Admiral,  who  sent  a  gunboat,  the  Pigmy, 
to  Shanhaikwan.  The  captain  of  this  little  craft 
audaciously  demanded  and  actually  received  the 
surrender  of  the  forts  ;  so  that  when  the  Russians 
arrived  they  found,  to  their  intense  surprise,  the 
Union  Jack  flying  from  the  ramparts.  Eventually, 
to  avoid  dissensions,  the  various  forts  were  divided 
among  the  Allies. 

Previous  to  my  departure  on  a  long-projected 
trip  to  Japan — seeing  a  little  of  Manchuria  and 
Corea  en  route — I  joined  a  small  party  of  officers 
who  had  arranged  to  pay  a  flying  visit  to  Shanhai- 
kwan. With  light  luggage  and  the  roll  of  bedding 
without  which  the  Anglo-Indian  seldom  travels  in 
the  East,  we  entrained  at  Tientsin.  A  couple 
of  hours  sufficed  to  bring  us  to  Tong-ku,  where  the 
railway  branches  off  to  the  north.  The  platform 
was  thronged  with  a  bustling  crowd  of  the  soldiers 
of  many  nations,  the  place  being  the  disembarka- 
tion port  for  the  Continental,  the  American,  and 
the  Japanese  troops.  In  the  station  buildings  the 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  135 

British  officers  in  charge  of  that  section  of  the 
railway  and  of  the  detachments  guarding  it  had 
established  a  mess.  As  we  had  some  time  to  wait 
before  the  departure  of  the  train  to  Shanhaikwan, 
they  warmly  welcomed  us  within  its  hospitable, 
if  narrow,  walls. 

When  the  warning  bell  summoned  us  to  take  our 
places,  we  established  ourselves  in  a  comfortable 
first-class  carriage  —  partly  saloon,  partly  coupe. 
I  may  mention  that  during  the  occupation  of  North 
China  by  the  Allies  the  wearers  of  uniform  travelled 
free  everywhere  on  the  railways.  Among  our 
fellow-passengers  were  some  Japanese  naval  officers, 
a  German  or  two,  a  few  Russians,  and  an  old  friend 
of  mine,  Lieutenant  Hutchinson,  of  H. M.S.  Terrible, 
who  had  served  with  the  Naval  Brigade  in  the 
defence  of  Tientsin.  He  had  just  returned  from 
a  trip  to  Japan,  and  was  full  of  his  adventures  in 
the  Land  of  the  Geisha. 

The  railway  to  Shanhaikwan  runs  at  first  close  to 
the  sea  through  a  monotonous  stretch  of  mud  flats, 
and  then  reaches  a  most  fertile  country  with  walled 
villages  and  substantially  built  houses.  It  was 
guarded  by  the  4th  Punjaub  Infantry,  detachments 
of  which  occupied  the  stations  along  the  line.  Not 
long  before,  this  fine  regiment  had  been  engaged 
in  a  punitive  expedition  against  the  brigands  who 
had  slain  Major  Browning.  After  a  severe  fight 
they  captured  the  fortified  villages  held  by  4,000 
well-armed  banditti,  and  terribly  avenged  their 


136          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

officer.  As  the  country  was  still  infested  by  roving 
bands  of  robbers  who  raided  defenceless  villages, 
the  station  buildings  were  put  in  a  state  of  defence, 
the  walls  loopholed  and  head-cover  provided  by 
means  of  sandbags  until  each  resembled  a  miniature 
fort.  But  the  brigands,  after  practical  experience 
of  the  fighting  qualities  of  the  gallant  Punjaubis, 
evinced  no  desire  to  come  in  contact  with  them 
.again ;  and  the  detachments  along  the  line  were 
left  to  languish  in  inglorious  ease  and  complain 
bitterly  of  the  want  of  enterprise  on  the  part 
of  the  robbers. 

For  some  distance  alongside  the  railway  runs 
a  canal,  which  is  largely  used  by  the  Chinese  for 
transporting  grain  and  merchandise.  As  our  train 
rattled  along,  we  passed  numbers  of  long,  shallow 
boats,  fashioned  like  dug-outs  and  loaded  down 
until  the  gunwale  was  scarcely  a  few  inches  from 
the  water.  The  half-naked  boatmen  toiling  at  their 
oars  paused  to  gaze  with  envy  at  the  swift-speeding 
iron  horse,  which  covered  the  weary  miles  with  such 
apparent  ease. 

The  crops  here  were  even  more  luxuriant  than 
on  the  way  to  Pekin.  Fields  of  ripe  grain  stretched 
away  on  either  side  of  the  line,  interspersed  with 
groves  of  trees  or  dotted  with  villages  surrounded 
by  high  walls,  significant  of  the  continual  insecurity 
of  life  and  property  in  this  debatable  land.  Here 
and  there  were  deserted  mud  forts. 

The  journey  from  Tientsin  to  Shanhaikwan  occu- 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  137 

pied  about  twelve  hours.  About  midway  the  train 
stopped  for  a  short  time  at  Tongshan,  a  town  im- 
portant for  the  coal  mines  near,  which  are  worked 
under  the  direction  of  Europeans.  From  the  win- 
dows of  our  carriage  we  could  see  the  tall  buildings 
and  the  machinery  at  the  mouths  of  the  pits,  which 
gave  quite  an  English  character  to  the  landscape. 
For  the  convenience  of  travellers,  the  British  officers 
quartered  in  the  place  had  established  a  refreshment 
room  in  some  Chinese  buildings  near  the  station, 
and  lent  some  Indian  servants  to  it.  As  our  train 
was  due  to  wait  some  little  time,  we  all  descended 
in  search  of  lunch,  and  were  provided  here  with 
quite  a  good  meal  at  a  very  reasonable  rate.  Our 
German  fellow-passengers,  ignorant  of  Hindustani, 
found  some  difficulty  in  expressing  their  wants 
to  the  Indian  waiters,  whose  knowledge  of  English 
was  very  limited.  We  came  to  the  rescue  and 
interpreted,  and  gained  the  gratitude  of  hungry 
men. 

As  we  journeyed  on  to  Shanhaikwan  the  country 
began  to  lose  its  flat  appearance.  Low,  tree-clad 
eminences  broke  the  level  monotony  of  the  land- 
scape ;  and  the  train  passed  close  to  a  line  of  rugged 
hills.  In  their  recesses  bands  of  brigands  were 
reported  to  be  lurking,  so  we  had  the  pleasant 
excitement  of  speculating  on  the  chances  of  the 
train  being  held  up  by  some  of  these  gentry.  But 
without  mishap  we  reached  our  destination  about 
half-past  six  o'clock  in  the  evening. 


138          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

The  railway  station  of  Shanhaikwan  was  large 
and  well  built,  with  roomy  offices  and  a  long  plat- 
form. There  were,  besides,  engine  sheds,  machinery 
shops,  yards,  and  houses  for  the  European  em- 
ployees, all  of  which  had  been  seized  by  the 
Russians.  We  were  met  on  our  arrival  by  some 
officers  of  the  Gurkha  Regiment  in  garrison,  to 
whom  we  had  written  from  Tientsin  to  ask  if  they 
could  find  quarters  for  us.  But  as  they  were 
exceedingly  short  of  accommodation  for  themselves, 
being  crowded  together  in  wretched  Chinese  hovels, 
they  received  us  with  expressions  of  regret  that 
they  were  unable  to  find  room  for  all  our  party. 
The  two  junior  ones  must  seek  shelter  for  them- 
selves. I,  unfortunately,  was  one.  There  was  no 
hotel  or  inn  of  any  sort.  My  companion  in  dis- 
tress, luckily  for  himself,  had  a  friend  in  a  squadron 
of  the  3rd  Bombay  Cavalry,  quartered  in  one  of 
the  forts,  and  set  off  to  request  his  hospitality.  So 
our  party  separated ;  and  I  was  left  stranded  on  the 
platform  with  no  prospect  of  a  bed,  and,  worse 
still,  not  the  faintest  idea  as  to  where  to  get  a 
meal.  On  appealing  to  a  British  railway  employee, 
I  found  that  there  were  two  military  officers  in 
charge  of  the  station  —  one  English,  the  other 
Russian ;  for  the  portion  of  the  line  held  by  the 
latter  nationality  began,  as  I  have  said,  at  Shan- 
haikwan. Both  had  quarters  in  the  station,  but 
both,  unfortunately,  had  gone  out  to  dinner ;  and 
there  was  no  likelihood  of  their  return  before  mid- 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  139 

night.     Taking  pity  on  my  distress,  this  employee 
promised  to  send  me  down  a  Chinese  cane  bed 
from  his  house,  and  then  went  off,  leaving  me  to 
brood  over  the   hopelessness  of  my  situation.     I 
sat   down   on   a   bench   and   cursed   the   name   of 
Shanhaikwan.      The   lunch   at   Tongshan  seemed 
by  now  a  very  far-off  memory  ;  and  I  endeavoured 
to  allay  the  pangs  of  hunger  with  a  cigar.     As  I 
meditated  on  the  inefficacy  of  tobacco  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  food,  I  saw  the  door  of  a  room  marked 
"  Telegraph  Office  "  open  and  a  smart  bombardier 
of  the  Royal   Marine  Artillery  emerge.     On  see- 
ing me  he  saluted,  and,  snatching  at  every  straw, 
I  called  him  over  and  asked  him  if  he  knew  of  any 
place  where  I  could  get  anything  to  eat.     He  told 
me  of  the  existence  of  a  low  cafe",  patronised  by  the 
Continental  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  where  I  might 
possibly  obtain  some  sort  of  a  meal.     I  jumped 
eagerly  at   the   chance ;   and,    calling   one   of    the 
Chinese  railway  porters  to  guide  us,  he  offered  to 
show  me  the  way.     Quitting  the  station,  we  entered 
a  small   town   of  squalid  native  houses  and    pro- 
ceeded through  narrow  and  unsavoury  lanes  until 
,we  reached  a  low  doorway  in  a  high  wall.     Passing 
through,  I  found  myself  in  a  small  courtyard.     On 
the  muddy  ground  were  placed  a  number  of  rickety 
tables  and  rough  benches.     Here  sat,  with  various 
liquors    before    them,    groups     of    Cossacks    and 
German  soldiers,  who  stared  with  surprise  at  the 
unusual  sight  of  a  British  officer  in  such  a  den. 


140          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

At  the  far  end  of  the  court  was  a  tumbledown 
Chinese  house,  on  the  verandah  of  which  sat  the 
proprietor  and  his  wife,  evidently  Italian  or  Austrian. 
The  lady,  a  buxom  person  of  ample  proportions, 
was  attired  in  a  very  magnificent,  but  decidedly 
ddcolletd  evening  dress.  Her  wrists  were  adorned 
with  massive  bracelets,  her  fingers  covered  with 
rings.  Altogether  she  looked  a  very  haughty  and 
superb  beauty  and  more  fitted  to  adorn  a  cafe  in 
the  Champs  Elysees  than  a  rough  drinking-booth 
in  the  heart  of  China.  Her  husband  came  forward 
to  meet  me ;  and  on  my  stating  my  wants  in  im- 
ploring tones,  he  seemed  at  first  in  doubt  as  to 
whether  he  could  supply  them.  My  heart  sank. 
He  turned  to  consult  the  lady.  To  my  intense 
astonishment  this  magnificent  personage  sprang  up 
at  once,  called  to  a  Chinese  servant  to  bring  her  a 
chicken,  and  then,  pinning  up  the  skirt  of  her  rich 
dress,  plunged  into  a  kitchen  which  opened  off  the 
verandah,  and  then  and  there,  with  her  own  fair 
hands,  spatch-cocked  the  fowl,  and  served  me  with 
a  welcome  and  appetising  meal. 

My  hunger  satisfied  thus  unexpectedly,  I  strolled 
back  to  the  station  in  a  contented  frame  of  mind, 
indifferent  to  anything  Fate  had  in  store  for  me. 
Nothing  could  harm  me ;  I  had  dined.  I  was 
quite  ready  to  wrap  myself  in  a  blanket  and  sleep 
on  a  bench,  or  on  the  ground  for  that  matter. 
But  my  star  was  in  the  ascendant.  I  found  a  com- 
fortable camp-bed  of  a  Chinese  pattern  awaiting 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  141 

me,  sent  by  the  kind-hearted  employee.  Placing 
it  on  the  platform,  I  spread  my  bedding  on  it, 
undressed,  and  lay  down  to  sleep. 

But  I  had  reckoned  without  the  merry  mosquito. 
I  have  met  this  little  pest  in  many  lands.  I  first 
made  his  acquaintance  on  the  night  of  my  arrival  in 
India  with  a  raw,  unsalted  regiment  from  home ; 
when  he  could  batten  on  seven  hundred  fresh, 
full-blooded  Britishers  and  feast  to  the  full  on  their 
vital  fluid  unthinned  by  a  tropical  climate ;  when 
next  morning  the  faces  of  all,  officers  and  men 
alike,  were  swollen  almost  beyond  recognition. 
I  have  remonstrated  with  him  as  to  his  claim 
to  the  possession  of  the  interior  of  a  mosquito 
net  and  failed  to  move  him.  I  have  scarcely 
doubted  when  a  friend  vowed  that  he  had  broken 
the  back  of  a  hairbrush  over  the  head  of  one  of 
the  giant,  striped  species  we  knew  as  "  Bombay 
tigers  "  or  questioned  the  truth  of  the  statement 
that  a  man  had  lain  on  his  bed  and  watched  two 
of  them  trying  to  pull  open  his  curtains  to  get 
at  him.  I  have  cursed  him  in  the  jungle  when 
sitting  up  in  a  machdn  over  a  "kill"  waiting  for 
a  tiger.  I  have  wrestled  with  him  when  out  on 
column  and  bivouacked  beside  a  South  China  river, 
where  his  home  was ;  but  never  have  I  seen  him 
in  such  wonderful  vigour  and  maddening  persistence 
as  during  that  night  on  the  station  platform  of 
Shanhaikwan.  In  vain  I  beat  the  air  with  frenzied 
hands  ;  in  vain  I  smoked.  I  tried  to  cover  my 


142  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

head  with  a  sheet ;  but  the  heat  was  too  great, 
and  I  emerged  panting  to  find  him  waiting  for  me. 
As  Thomas  Atkins  says  :  "It  h'isn't  the  bite  of  the 
beggar  I  'ates  so  much  as  'is  bloomin'  h'irritatin' 
buzz " ;  and  the  air  was  filled  with  his  song.  It 
was  a  concert  with  refreshments.  /  was  the  re- 
freshments. To  make  matters  worse,  I  had  the 
tantalising  knowledge  that  I  had  mosquito  curtains 
with  me,  which  I  had  been  unable  to  fix  up  as  the 
bed  was  without  poles. 

At  last,  maddened  by  the  persistent  attacks  of 
the  irritating  pests,  I  sat  up  and  reviewed  the 
situation  until  I  hit  upon  a  plan.  I  shoved  the 
bed  under  the  windows  of  a  room  which  looked 
out  on  the  platform  and  which  happened  to  be  the 
quarters  of  the  British  Railway  Station  Officer. 
The  Venetian  shutters  opened  outward.  About  ten 
feet  away  was  a  telegraph-pole  ;  and  a  short  distance 
from  the  foot  of  the  bed  stood  a  lamp-post.  Taking 
the  cords  of  my  Wolseley  valise,  the  straps  of  my 
bedding  and  my  luggage,  and  some  string  which 
I  looted  from  one  of  the  railway  offices,  I  contrived 
to  suspend  my  curtains  from  the  shutters,  the  pole, 
and  the  lamp-post.  It  was  really  an  ingenious  con- 
trivance, and  I  lay  down  in  triumph  and  security. 
The  bafHed  mosquitoes  uttered  positive  shrieks  of 
rage. 

Somewhere  about  midnight  I  was  awakened  by 
the  sounds  of  revelry  in  a  foreign  tongue.  Peering 
through  the  curtains,  I  saw  by  the  dim  light  of  the 


A   TRIP   TO   SHANHAIKWAN  143 

turned-down  station  lamps  two  figures  in  uniform 
advancing  along  the  platform.  One  was  a  very 
drunken  but  merry  Russian  officer,  who  was  being 
carefully  helped  along  by  a  sober  and  amused 
British  subaltern.  They  suddenly  caught  sight  of 
the  white  mass  of  my  mosquito  curtains,  which 
swayed  in  ghostly  folds  in  the  wind  and  looked 
uncanny  in  the  uncertain  light. 

"  What  the  devil  is  that  ? "  exclaimed  the 
Englishman. 

The  Russian  hiccoughed  a  reply  in  words  that 
sounded  like  a  sneeze. 

The  former,  gently  propping  up  his  companion 
against  the  lamp-post  to  which  he  clung  lovingly, 
advanced  to  my  bed.  I  recognised  him  by  his 
uniform  to  be  our  Railway  Station  Staff  Officer. 
Peering  through  the  curtains,  he  asked  me  who  on 
earth  I  was  and  what  I  was  doing  there.  In  a  few 
words  I  explained  myself  and  my  situation.  With 
a  soldier's  ready  hospitality  he  said — 

"  My  dear  fellow,  I  am  so  sorry  that  I  was  absent. 
Get  up  and  move  your  bed  into  my  quarters.  I 
shall  be  delighted  to  put  you  up." 

I  thanked  him,  but  assured  him  that  I  was  very 
comfortably  fixed  for  the  night. 

"  But  you  can  have  had  no  dinner.  Did  you  get 
anything  to  eat  ?  "  he  asked. 

I  recounted  my  successful  search  for  a  meal ; 
whereat  he  laughed  and  again  expressed  his  regret 
at  his  absence,  explaining  that  he  had  gone  to  a 


144          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

dinner-party  given  by  the  wife  of  a  Russian  colonel 
on  her  husband's  name-day. 

Meanwhile  his  companion,  still  clinging  tightly  to 
the  lamp-post,  had  been  regarding  with  wonder  my 
contrivance  for  the  support  of  the  mosquito  curtains, 
shaking  his  head,  and  muttering  to  himself. 

The  Britisher,  informing  me  that  he  was  the 
Russian  Railway  Staff  Officer,  then  spoke  to  him 
in  his  own  language,  and  introduced  me  to  him, 
mentioning  a  name  that  ended  in  — itch  or  — sky. 
I  sat  up  in  bed  and  bowed.  But  my  new  acquaint- 
ance, still  holding  to  the  friendly  support  of  the 
post,  stared  solemnly  at  the  network  of  straps  and 
cords.  At  last  he  broke  silence. 

"  Ver'  good !  Ver'  practical !  You  English  is 
ver'  practical  nation."  Then  he  hiccoughed  sadly, 
"  I  am  ver'  drink  !  " 

Thoroughly  awakened,  I  got  up,  and  we  ad- 
journed to  the  British  officer's  quarters,  where  we 
drank  to  our  better  acquaintance  in  an  iced  whisky 
and  soda  ;  for  the  night  was  distressingly  hot. 

The  hospitable  Englishman  was  Lieutenant  Kell, 
South  Staffordshire  Regiment.  He  was  a  good 
specimen  of  the  linguists  in  our  army  who  surprised 
our  Continental  allies.  A  passed  Interpreter  in 
Russian  and  Chinese,  he  spoke  French,  German, 
and  Italian  fluently ;  and,  as  I  discovered  after- 
wards, although  he  had  never  been  to  India,  he 
was  rapidly  picking  up  Hindustani  from  the  sepoys 
with  whom  he  was  brought  in  contact  through 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  145 

his  station  duties.  He  had  served  on  General 
Dorward's  staff  during  the  hard  fighting  in  Tientsin 
and  had  been  mentioned  in  his  despatches.  His 
linguistic  powers  had  caused  him  to  be  appointed 
as  Railway  Staff  Officer  at  Shanhaikwan,  where 
his  ready  tact  and  genial  qualities  endeared  him 
to  the  Russians  and  contributed  greatly  to  the 
harmonious  working  of  affairs  in  that  debatable 
garrison. 

Before  we  parted  for  the'  night  our  Russian 
friend  gave  us  both  a  cordial  invitation  to  dine 
with  him  the  following  night  and  meet  some  of  his 
comrades.  And  then  I  retired  again  to  bed,  feel- 
ing no  longer  a  lost  sheep  and  a  homeless  orphan. 

In  the  morning  I  was  awakened  by  Lieutenant 
Kell's  servant,  who  brought  me  my  chota  hazri,  the 
matutinal  tea  and  toast  dear  to  the  heart  of  the 
Anglo-Indian.  He  had  taken  my  luggage  into  his 
master's  quarters,  where  a  bath  and  a  dressing- 
room  awaited  me.  I  found  my  host  busily  engaged 
in  his  railway  work,  interviewing  soldiers  of  every 
nationality.  As  I  was  in  the  act  of  wishing  him 
"Good  morning"  we  suddenly  observed  a  heavy 
transport  waggon,  drawn  by  two  huge  horses,  being 
driven  across  the  line  and  right  on  to  the  platform 
by  a  Cossack,  who  thus  thought  to  save  himself  a 
ctttour  to  the  level  crossing  at  the  far  end  of  the 
station.  It  was  done  in  flat  defiance  of  well-known 
orders.  Kell  spoke  to  him  in  his  own  language, 
and  told  him  to  go  back.  The  soldier,  muttering 


146          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

some  impertinent  remark,  took  no  notice  and  drove 
on.  At  that  moment  a  Russian  colonel  entered  the 
station.  Kell  immediately  reported  the  man's  dis- 
obedience to  him.  The  officer  flew  at  the  culprit, 
abused  him  in  loud  and  angry  tones ;  and  if  the 
Cossack  had  not  been  out  of  reach  where  he  sat 
perched  up  on  the  waggon,  I  am  sure  he  would 
have  received  a  sound  thrashing.  Crestfallen,  he 
turned  his  horses  round  and  drove  away;  while  the 
colonel  apologised  profusely  to  Kell  for  the  fault  of 
his  subordinate  and  promised  that  the  man  would 
receive  a  severe  punishment  for  his  disobedience 
and  impertinence  to  an  English  officer. 

After  breakfast  one  of  my  companions,  Captain 
Labertouche,  22nd  Bombay  Infantry,  who,  like 
me,  had  been  unable  to  find  quarters  among  the 
Gurkhas  the  night  before,  but  who  had  been  given 
shelter  by  the  officers  of  the  3rd  Bombay  Light 
Cavalry,  rode  up  to  look  for  me.  Sending  away 
his  horse,  we  set  out  on  foot  to  hunt  up  the  rest 
of  our  party  in  the  Gurkha  mess. 

Our  way  lay  first  along  the  railway  line.  On  the 
right-hand  side  were  the  station  yards,  engine  sheds, 
and  machinery  shops,  all  now  in  the  hands  of  the 
Russians,  who  had  removed  the  spare  rolling  stock 
and  plant  found  there  and  sent  them  to  Port  Arthur. 
The  Muscovite  believes  in  war  being  self-support- 
ing. To  the  left,  behind  the  station,  lay  the  rookery 
of  squalid  Chinese  houses,  where  I  had  hunted 
for  a  dinner  the  night  before.  Farther  away  lay 


A  TRIP  TO  SHANHAIKWAN  147 

Shanhaikwan.  High  battlements  and  lofty  towers 
enclosed  the  city,  the  sides  of  which  ran  down  to 
the  Great  Wall  of  China.  For  ahead  of  us,  a  mile 
away  athwart  the  railway,  lay  a  long  line  of  grass- 
grown  earthworks,  with  here  and  there  fragments 
of  ruined  masonry  peering  out  among  the  herbage 
and  bushes  that  clothed  it.  It  was  that  wondrous 
fortification  which  stretches  for  more  than  a  thou- 
sand miles  along  the  ancient  boundary  of  China, 
climbing  mountains,  plunging  into  valleys,  and 
running  through  field  and  forest — a  monumental 
and  colossal  work  that  has  never  served  to  roll 
back  the  tide  of  war  from  the  land  it  was  built  to 
guard.  Through  a  wide  breach  in  it  the  railway 
passes  on  to  the  north,  to  Manchuria  where  the 
Russian  Bear  now  menaces  the  integrity  of  the 
Celestial  Kingdom.  Before  reaching  the  Wall  our 
way  turned  off  sharp  to  the  right ;  so,  leaving  the 
railway,  we  followed  a  rough  country  road  which 
led  to  the  Chinese  village  that  sheltered  the 
Gurkhas.  It  was  crossed  by  a  broad  stream  two 
or  three  feet  deep.  As  we  were  grumbling  at  the 
necessity  of  taking  off  boots  and  gaiters  in  order  to 
wade  it,  a  sturdy  Chinaman  strolled  up  and  looked 
extremely  amused  at  our  distress.  We  promptly 
seized  him,  and  made  signs  that  we  wanted  him  to 
carry  us  across.  The  Celestial  smilingly  assented, 
and  kicked  off  his  felt-soled  shoes.  Hoisting  my 
companion  on  his  back,  he  waded  with  him  to  the 
other  side,  and  then  returned  to  fetch  me.  When 


148          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

we  rewarded  him  with  a  small  silver  coin  he  seemed 
extremely  surprised ;  and  he  made  frantic  signs, 
which  we  interpreted  as  meant  to  express  his  desire 
to  remain  on  the  spot  in  readiness  to  ferry  us 
over  on  our  return.  Without  further  difficulty  we 
reached  the  Gurkha  mess,  where  we  found  our 
friends  on  the  point  of  setting  out  to  visit  the  Great 
Wall.  So  the  whole  party  walked  back  along  the 
road  by  which  Labertouche  and  I  had  come,  and 
at  the  stream  found  our  ferryman  awaiting  us  with 
a  beaming  smile.  He  eagerly  proffered  his  services, 
and  conveyed  us  all  across  in  turn.  Payment  being 
duly  made,  he  expressed  his  gratitude  in  voluble,  if 
unintelligible,  language. 

Reaching  the  railway,  we  proceeded  along  it  in 
the  direction  of  the  Wall.  The  country  between  it 
and  us  was  flat  and  cultivated,  though  at  its  foot 
lay  a  strip  of  waste  ground.  To  our  left  ran  a 
rough  road  leading  out,  through  the  same  gap  as 
the  line,  towards  some  forts  to  the  north.  Along  it, 
behind  three  sturdy  little  ponies  harnessed  abreast, 
sped  a  Russian  troisckat  driven  by  a  Cossack  and 
containing  two  white-coated  officers. 

Arrived  at  the  inner  face  of  the  Wall,  we  climbed 
its  sloping  side  and  found  ourselves  on  a  broad  and 
bush-grown  rampart.  We  were  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  above  the  ground.  The  outer  face  of  this 
ancient  fortification,  which  was  begun  in  B.C.  241, 
was  in  a  better  state  of  preservation  than  the  inner ; 
though  in  places  it  bore  little  resemblance  to  a  wall. 


A   TRIP   TO   SHANHAIKWAN  149 

From  the  ruins  of  an  old  bastion  we  had  a  splendid 
view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Before  us  a  level 
plain  stretched  away  to  the  horizon,  broken  by  the 
ugly  outlines  of  forts  or  patched  with  cultivated 
fields  and  small  woods.  To  the  right  the  Great 
Wall  ran  to  the  cliffs  above  the  sea,  which  sparkled 
in  the  distance  under  a  brilliant  sun.  On  its  bosom 
lay  the  ponderous  bulks  of  a  number  of  Japanese 
warships  ;  for  their  fleet  had  arrived  unexpectedly 
at  Shanhaikwan  the  night  before.  The  Russian 
dinner-party,  which  Lieutenant  Kell  had  attended 
the  previous  evening,  had  been  given  in  the  open 
air,  on  the  cliffs  over  the  sea.  The  numerous  guests, 
nearly  all  officers  of  the  Czar,  could  look  out  over 
the  blue  water  as  they  smoked  the  cigarettes  with 
which  every  Russian  meal  is  punctuated.  While 
the  feast  was  proceeding  merrily  trails  of  smoke, 
heralding  the  approach  of  a  fleet,  appeared  on  the 
horizon.  The  Russian  officers  gazed  in  surprise  as 
the  ships  came  into  view,  and  wonder  was  expressed 
as  to  their  nationality  and  the  purpose  of  their 
coming.  In  those  troublous  times,  when  national 
jealousies  were  rife,  no  one  knew  that  war  might 
not  suddenly  break  out  among  the  so-called  Allies  ; 
and  Slav,  Teuton,  Frank,  and  Briton  might  be 
called  on  without  a  day's  warning  to  range  them- 
selves in  hostile  camps.  So  something  like  con- 
sternation fell  upon  the  dinner  -  party  when  the 
approaching  ships  were  seen  to  be  the  Japanese 
fleet.  For  the  relations  between  Russia  and  Japan 


150          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

were  very  strained  at  the  time ;  and  all  present  at 
the  table  wondered  if  the  unexpected  arrival  of  this 
powerful  squadron  meant  that  the  rupture  had  come. 
But  no  hostile  signs  were  made  by  the  ships ;  and, 
with  the  motto  of  the  trooper  all  the  world  over — 

"  Why,  soldiers,  why 
Should  we  be  melancholy,  boys, 
Whose  business  'tis  to  die  ?  " 

the  interrupted  revelry  was  renewed. 

Between  us  and  the  sea  lay  the  strong  and  well- 
armed  forts  that  had  fallen  before  the  audacious 
challenge  of  the  little  Pigmy.  From  their  walls 
floated  the  flags  of  the  Allies ;  and  Cossacks, 
German,  Japanese,  and  Indian  troops  could  be  seen 
upon  their  ramparts.  Behind  us  lay  the  ruins  of 
what  must  have  been  a  large  fortified  camp  just 
inside  the  Wall. 

To  the  left  the  town  of  Shanhaikwan  lay  penned 
in  by  its  lofty  but  antiquated  fortifications.  Past  it 
the  Great  Wall  ran  away  to  the  west  until  lost  to 
our  sight  among  the  slopes  of  a  range  of  hills. 
Here  and  there  the  climbing  line  was  seen  topping 
the  summit  of  a  steep  eminence,  and  one  could 
appreciate  the  magnitude  of  the  task  of  its  builders 
when  they  set  themselves  to  fence  China  from  the 
ravaging  hordes  of  the  unknown  lands. 

And  away  north  and  south  stretched  the  thin 
shining  line  of  the  railway,  along  which  the  soldiers 
of  the  Czar  hope  to  swarm  one  day  to  plant  their 
eagles  once  more  in  Pekin,  never  again  to  be 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  151 

removed.  As  we  stood  on  the  Great  Wall  flocks 
of  snipe  and  duck  flew  past  us  to  the  south,  already 
fleeing  before  the  approach  of  the  dread  winter  of 
Northern  Asia. 

We  went  on  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  forts,  which, 
when  they  were  held  by  the  Chinese,  had  been 
armed  with  powerful  and  modern  guns.  Concerning 
one  of  these  forts  an  amusing  story,  illustrative  of 
foreign  guile,  was  told.  The  place  was  occupied 
by  one  Power,  who  had  quartered  in  it  a  battery 
of  artillery.  In  the  re-arrangement  of  the  garrison 
of  Shanhaikwan,  at  a  council  of  the  allied  com- 
manders, it  was  decided  that  this  fort  should  be 
handed  over  to  the  English.  But  although  the 
foreign  General  agreed  at  the  time,  all  the  subse- 
quent endeavours  of  the  British  to  induce  him  to 
name  a  day  for  the  evacuation  and  transfer  were 
fruitless.  Regrets,  excuses,  indefinite  promises 
were  freely  made ;  but  some  unexpected  and  insur- 
mountable obstacle  invariably  intervened.  At  length 
when  the  surrender  of  the  fort  could  no  longer  be 
refused,  a  certain  date  for  the  foreign  troops  to 
march  out  and  the  place  to  be  handed  over  to  the 
English  was  fixed.  The  day  arrived.  The  re- 
lieving British  garrison  marched  up  to  the  gate. 
There  they  were  met  by  the  apparently  bewildered 
foreign  commander,  who  expressed  considerable 
astonishment  at  their  presence.  When  reminded 
that  this  was  the  day  agreed  upon,  he  smiled 
politely,  and  assured  the  British  officers  that  they 


152          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

had  made  a  mistake.  He  pointed  out  that  they 
had  apparently  calculated  by  the  modern  style 
calendar,  forgetting  that  the  old  style  was  still  in 
vogue  in  some  countries  and  had  been  adopted 
by  him  in  his  reckoning.  Consequently  the  day 
had  not  yet  come.  Lost  in  unwilling  admiration  at 
this  clever  instance  of  duplicity,  the  British  were 
obliged  to  withdraw. 

On  the  eve  of  the  day  on  which  he  declared  that 
the  fort  would  really  be  evacuated,  the  battery 
garrisoning  it  marched  out  with  much  pomp  and 
publicity.  The  British  smiled  as  they  watched 
them  go,  well  pleased  at  having  got  rid  of  them  at 
last.  They  plumed  themselves  on  their  moral 
victory  ;  and  they  marched  up  next  morning  to  the 
fort  in  triumph.  But  the  other  flag  was  still 
flying,  and  inside  they  saw  the  same  battery  whose 
departure  they  had  witnessed  the  evening  before. 
They  stared  in  bewilderment.  They  could  recog- 
nise some  of  the  officers  and  men.  Then  an 
explanation  was  angrily  demanded.  It  was  readily 
forthcoming.  This  was  not  the  same  battery  as 
before.  Far  from  it.  That  was  by  this  time  well 
on  its  way  to  the  North.  But  by  an  extraordinary 
coincidence  another  battery  had  suddenly  and  most 
unexpectedly  arrived  during  the  night  to  the 
foreign  General's  utter  astonishment,  as  no  intima- 
tion of  their  coming  had  been  vouchsafed  him. 
And  as  he  had  no  other  place  to  quarter  them  in 
but  the  fort,  he  had  been  obliged  most  reluctantly 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  153 

to  send  them  there.  He  was  desolated  at  the 
unfortunate  necessity.  He  offered  his  profoundest 
regrets,  and  trusted  that  his  dear  allies  would 
realise  that  he  was  helpless.  So  the  outwitted 
British  had  again  to  withdraw.  As  a  matter  of 
fact  the  battery  had  simply  marched  out  of  sight 
in  the  evening  and  come  back  during  the  night. 
So  with  baffling  ingenuity  the  foreign  General 
contrived  to  retain  the  fort  for  some  time  longer 
in  his  hands ;  though  he  was  forced  to  surrender 
it  in  the  end. 

After  inspecting  several  of  the  forts,  some  of  our 
party  went  off  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  town,  while 
others  walked  down  to  the  shore  and  gazed  out  at 
the  Japanese  fleet  and  the  long  hull  of  H.M.S. 
Terrible,  which  was  lying  at  anchor.  As  we  looked 
at  the  water  sparkling  in  the  bright  sunlight,  it  was 
difficult  to  realise  that  in  the  winter  the  sea  here  is 
frozen  for  several  miles  out  from  the  shore.  From 
this  fact  one  can  form  some  idea  of  the  intense  cold 
of  the  winter  months  in  North  China.  And  yet  the 
Indian  troops,  natives  of  a  warm  climate,  suffered 
comparatively  little  and  the  percentage  of  admis- 
sions into  hospital  from  our  contingent  was  remark- 
ably small,  so  well  were  they  looked  after  by  their 
officers  and  so  generous  was  the  free  issue  of  warm 
clothing  by  the  Indian  Government. 

In  the  afternoon  some  of  us  attended  a  cricket 
match  between  the  crew  of  the  Terrible  and  the 
British  garrison.  Hardly  had  the  stumps  been 


154          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

drawn  and  the  players  gone  into  the  refreshment 
tent  when  some  snipe  settled  on  the  pitch.  An 
officer  quartered  in  a  fort  close  to  the  cricket  ground 
sent  for  his  gun,  and  secured  a  couple  then  and 
there. 

I  dined  that  night  with  the  Russian  Railway  Staff 
Officer  in  his  quarters  in  the  station.  They  con- 
sisted of  two  or  three  large  and  comfortable  rooms. 
The  furniture,  which  had  been  supplied  to  him  by 
his  Government,  was  almost  luxurious,  in  marked 
contrast  with  the  indifferent  tables  and  the  camp 
chairs  with  which  Lieutenant  Kell  had  to  provide 
himself.  All  through  the  combined  occupation  the 
Continental  Powers  endeavoured  to  enable  their 
officers  to  present  a  good  appearance  among  the 
other  nationalities.  The  Germans  were  especially 
generous  in  the  pay  and  allowances  they  gave  to 
the  commissioned  ranks  of  their  expeditionary 
force. 

The  guests  that  evening  comprised,  besides  Kell 
and  myself,  three  Russian  officers,  one  of  whom 
spoke  English,  one  French,  while  the  third  could 
converse  only  in  his  own  language,  so  the  conver- 
sation was  of  a  polyglot  character.  The  dinner 
began  by  the  preliminary  sakouski  —  that  is  the 
nearest  approach  I  can  make  to  its  name — a  regular 
little  meal  in  itself  of  hors  d'ceuvres.  Caviare,  stur- 
geon's roe,  very  salt  ham,  brawn,  and  a  dozen  other 
comestibles  were  served.  My  host  asked  me  if  I 
had  ever  tasted  vodki,  and  although  I  assured  him 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  155 

that  I  had,  proceeded  to  make  me  try  five  differently 
flavoured  varieties  of  the  national  liquor  With  the 
regular  dinner  the  nauseatingly  sweet  champagne, 
so  much  in  favour  with  Continental  peoples,  was 
served.  On  my  declaring  that  champagne  was  a 
wine  I  never  drank,  I  was  allowed  to  have  a  de- 
canter of  whisky  and  a  syphon  of  soda-water  and 
permitted  to  help  myself.  Kell  adhered  faithfully 
to  claret  and  soda  throughout  the  evening ;  but  our 
Russian  comrades  indiscriminately  mixed  cham- 
pagne, beer,  and  red  or  white  wines,  with  the  result 
that  they  soon  became  exceedingly  merry.  We 
were  served  by  Chinese  and  a  Russian  soldier, 
whose  manner  of  waiting  at  table  was  perfection. 
The  best -trained  London  butler  could  not  have 
moved  with  more  noiseless  tread,  or  decanted  the 
wine  more  carefully. 

As  the  meal  wore  on  and  the  bottles  were  emptied, 
the  conversation  waxed  somewhat  noisy.  Our 
friends  were  filled  with  the  most  generous  senti- 
ments towards  England  and  lamented  the  estrange- 
ment of  our  nations.  They  confessed  that  they  had 
come  to  China  prepared  to  dislike  the  British  officers 
intensely ;  but,  in  common  with  all  their  comrades 
who  had  been  brought  in  contact  with  us,  their 
feelings  had  entirely  changed.  They  said  frankly 
that  the  hostility  to  England  was  mainly  owing  to 
the  continual  opposition  she  offers  to  the  natural 
desire  of  Russia  to  find  an  outlet  to  the  sea.  As 
they  pointed  out  with  truth,  a  great  and  rising  nation 


156          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

like  theirs  will  not  submit  to  be  confined  for  ever 
to  the  land ;  that  it  was  intolerable  that  their  vast 
Empire  had  not  a  single  port  free  from  ice  all  the 
year  round  or  entirely  at  their  own  disposal.  For 
Odessa  is  practically  an  inland  harbour ;  and  the 
Baltic  is  frozen  in  winter.  Their  ambition  to  reach 
the  Mediterranean  entangled  them  in  the  campaign 
against  Turkey ;  and  one  can  understand  their  in- 
dignation against  England,  who  stepped  in  at  the 
last  moment  when  Constantinople  was  almost  in 
their  grasp  and  despoiled  them  of  the  fruits  of 
victory  achieved  at  the  cost  of  many  sacrifices  and 
a  long  and  bloody  war.  Foiled  in  the  attempt  to 
reach  the  open  sea  there,  they  embarked  on  the 
marvellous  career  of  conquest  which  carried  them 
across  Asia  to  the  Pacific.  And  there  they  found 
their  first  port,  Vladivostock,  useless  in  winter. 
And  if  other  nations  had  had  the  courage  of  their 
convictions,  they  would  never  have  been  suffered 
to  retain  Port  Arthur. 

But  although  the  talk  was  largely  political,  there 
was  absolutely  no  bitterness  on  the  part  of  our  host 
and  his  comrades.  The  conversation  passed  on  to 
a  comparison  of  the  various  systems  of  the  armies 
of  the  world  and  a  frank  criticism  of  our  own  as 
well  as  the  other  contingents  of  the  Allied  forces. 
They  were  not  very  much  impressed  by  our  Indian 
army.  They  admired  the  regiments  they  had  seen, 
but  pitied  us  for  the  necessity  we  were  under  of 
having  coloured  troops  at  all.  They  forgot  that 


A  TRIP   TO   SHANHAIKWAN  157 

a  large  portion  of  their  own  army  can  scarcely  be 
called  European.  Like  all  the  Russians  I  have 
met,  from  a  Grand  Duke  to  a  subaltern,  they  ex- 
hibited a  rancorous  hatred  to  Germany.  What 
they  had  seen  of  her  troops  in  this  campaign  had 
added  neither  to  their  respect  nor  their  love  for  that 
nation.  In  fact,  the  Germans  did  not  succeed  in 
making  themselves  cordially  liked  by  those  with 
whom  they  were  brought  in  contact ;  just  as  their 
country  may  find,  when  her  day  of  trouble  comes, 
that  her  friends  are  few.  Our  friends  betrayed  a  con- 
tempt, not  altogether  unmixed  with  fear,  for  the 
Japanese ;  and  they  marvelled  at  our  friendship  for 
them.  They  acknowledged  their  bravery  in  the 
present  campaign,  but  doubted  if  they  would  exhibit 
the  same  courage  when  pitted  against  white  troops. 
Their  doubts  will  be  resolved  when  the  time  comes. 

The  wine  passed  freely  between  our  Russian 
comrades ;  but  with  the  truest  hospitality  they  for- 
bore to  press  us  to  drink  against  our  wish.  The 
dinner  was  extremely  good,  even  luxurious ;  and 
Kell  laughingly  lamented  to  me  his  inability  to 
entertain  his  friends  as  well  as  his  Russian  colleague 
could  contrive  to  do.  But  here,  again,  I  think  he 
was  helped  by  his  Government,  for  I  fancy  that  he 
received  an  entertainment  allowance.  As  the  wine 
circulated  rapidly  our  companions  became  boisterous 
and  showed  some  signs  of  inebriation. 

Beside  me  sat  an  officer  who  filled  the  post  of 
military  director  of  the  railway  between   Shanhai- 


158          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

kwan  and  Newchwang.  I  had  long  been  desirous 
of  visiting  Manchuria  by  this  route,  but  had  always 
been  assured  that  the  Russians  were  very  unwilling 
to  allow  any  foreigner,  especially  a  British  officer, 
to  use  it ;  that  it  was  hopeless  to  try  to  obtain  their 
permission.  As  my  neighbour's  tongue  seemed  a 
good  deal  loosened  by  his  potations,  I  determined 
to  get  him  off  his  guard  and  sound  him  as  to  the 
possibility  of  my  proceeding  northward  to  Man- 
churia from  Shanhaikwan.  I  began  by  telling  him 
that  I  hoped  to  sail  in  a  few  days  from  Taku  for 
Newchwang,  and  remarked  that  it  was  a  pity  that 
the  Russian  authorities  were  so  averse  to  British 
officers  visiting  Manchuria.  He  waxed  quite  in- 
dignant at  the  idea,  and  assured  me  that  they  were 
sadly  misrepresented. 

"But,"  said  I,  "we  would  not  be  allowed  to  travel 
from  here  to  Newchwang  by  your  railway." 

"Not  be  allowed?  Absurd!  Of  course  you 
would,"  he  replied.  "  I  am  the  director  of  that 
section  of  the  line  ;  it  is  under  my  charge.  Surely 
I  know  best." 

"Oh,  come,"  I  said  chaffingly,  "you  know  that  if 
I  wanted  to  travel  by  it  you  would  not  permit  me." 

"  Most  certainly  I  would.    I  should  be  delighted." 

I  shall  pin  you  to  that,  I  thought.  I  felt  very 
pleased  at  achieving  a  result  that  everyone  had  told 
me  was  impossible,  Kell  among  them  ;  so  I  glanced 
in  triumph  at  him.  He  smiled. 

"  Do  you  mean  to  say  that  I  could  go  to  New- 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  159 

chwang  whenever  I  liked  by  your  line?"  I  con- 
tinued to  my  neighbour. 

"Certainly  you  could,"  he  replied,  draining  his 
glass,  which  I  had  taken  care  had  not  stood  idle 
during  our  conversation.  Wine  in,  wit  out,  I 
thought. 

"  Well,  in  that  case,"  said  I,  "  I  will  cancel  my 
passage  by  steamer  and  start  by  rail  from  here  to- 
morrow." 

"  Eh  ?  Oh  !  You  are  serious  ?  You  really  wish 
to  go  by  train  ?  "  he  stammered,  taken  aback. 

"  Yes ;  I  shall  telegraph  to  the  Steamship  Com- 
pany at  Tientsin  in  the  morning,  and  start  by  the 
first  train  I  can  get." 

For  a  second  my  friend  seemed  disconcerted. 
The  other  Russians  had  been  following  our  conver- 
sation with  interest.  Suddenly  sobered,  my  neigh- 
bour spoke  to  them  in  a  low  tone ;  and  a  muttered 
colloquy  took  place.  Then  he  turned  again  to  me 
and  said,  with  a  smile  of  innocent  regret — 

"  I  am  so  sorry.  It  would  be  impossible  for  you 
to  start  so  soon.  The  railway  has  been  breached 
in  several  places  by  floods,  and  three  bridges  have 
been  washed  away.  The  line  is  broken  and  all 
traffic  suspended.  It  is  most  unfortunate." 

I  realised  that  I  had  caught  my  Tartar. 

"  How  soon  do  you  think  I  could  travel  ? "  I 
asked. 

"  Oh,  not  for  several  days,  I  am  afraid,"  was  the 
answer,  in  a  tone  of  deep  sympathy  for  my  dis- 


160          THE    LAND   OF   THE    BOXERS 

appointment.  "  The  repairs  will  take  some  time 
as  the  damage  is  extensive." 

I  saw  that  I  was  no  match  for  Russian  wiliness, 
and  retired  from  the  contest. 

"  It  is  very  unfortunate.  But  perhaps,  after  all, 
it  would  be  best  to  go  by  sea." 

"Yes,  yes,"  he  assented  eagerly.  "  It  would  be 
very  difficult,  even  dangerous,  by  the  railway." 

Then  the  host  interposed  and  changed  the  con- 
versation. But  at  the  end  of  the  evening,  when  all 
the  Russians  had  imbibed  freely,  my  neighbour  for- 
got his  caution.  When  bidding  me  good-night,  he 
insisted  on  giving  me  his  address  in  Newchwang, 
where  he  usually  resided,  being  then  only  on  a  visit 
to  Shanhaikwan.  He  cordially  invited  me  to  come 
and  see  him. 

"But  I  fear  that  I  shall  have  come  and  gone  be- 
fore you  can  possibly  arrive  there,"  I  said.  "We 
leave  Taku  in  three  or  four  days ;  and  it  is  not 
twenty-four  hours'  sail  from  there  to  Newchwang. 
So  I  shall  have  left  before  you  can  get  there." 

"  Oh,  not  at  all,"  he  said  unguardedly.  "  I  am 
leaving  Shanhaikwan  for  Newchwang  to-morrow 
morning  by  a  train  starting  at  ten  o'clock.  So  be 
sure  to  come  and  see  me." 

I  smiled  to  myself  as  I  shook  his  hand.  No 
wonder  Russian  diplomacy  prospers. 

That  dinner  was  the  merriest  function  at  which  I 
had  assisted  for  a  long  time.  Our  friends  were 
excellent  boon  companions,  and  the  conversation 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  161 

in  divers  tongues  never  flagged.  Tiny  cigarettes 
were  handed  round  between  each  course;  and  the 
menu  comprised  many  delicacies  that  came  as  a 
pleasant  surprise  in  the  wilds  of  China.  When  the 
meal  was  ended  and  cigars  were  lit,  my  host  asked 
me  whether  I  would  prefer  coffee  or  th£  a  la  Russe. 
As  I  had  always  understood  that  this  latter  bever- 
age was  prepared  from  a  special  and  excellent 
blend  of  tea  and  flavoured  with  lemons,  I  voted 
for  it.  To  my  horror,  the  soldier-servant  brought 
me  a  long  tumbler  filled  with  an  amber-coloured 
liquid  and  proceeded  to  stir  a  large  spoonful  of 
jam  in  it.  The  mixture  was  not  palatable,  but 
courtesy  demanded  that  I  should  drink  it.  I  de- 
clared the  concoction  delicious,  drained  my  glass  and 
set  it  down  with  relief.  The  attendant  promptly 
filled  it  up  again,  my  host  insisting  that  as  I  liked  it 
so  well,  I  must  have  more.  It  nearly  sufficed  to 
spoil  my  enjoyment  of  the  whole  dinner. 

During  the  evening,  whenever  our  companions 
were  not  observing  me,  I  replenished  my  glass  with 
plain  soda-water,  and  my  brother  officer  had  re- 
mained faithful  to  his  weak  beverage.  Consequently, 
at  the  end  of  dinner  we  were  perfectly  sober ;  while 
our  host  and  his  friends  who  had  imbibed  freely  were 
— well,  the  reverse.  Conscious  of  their  own  state 
and  contrasting  it  with  ours,  they  gazed  at  us  in 
admiration,  and  exclaimed,  "  These  English  officers 
have  the  heads  of  iron."  We  parted  at  a  late  hour. 
With  many  expressions  of  mutual  friendship  and 

M 


162  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

goodwill,  the  party  broke  up ;  and  so  ended  a  very 
interesting  and  enjoyable  evening.  No  longer  a 
homeless  outcast,  I  retired  to  rest  in  the  friendly 
shelter  of  Kell's  quarters. 

During  the  night  I  was  dimly  conscious  of  heavy 
rain  but  slept  on  unregarding.  When  I  rose  in  the 
morning  I  found  that  a  change  had  come  over  the 
scene.  A  burning  sun  no  longer  blazed  overhead. 
The  sky  was  dark  with  leaden  clouds  ;  the  rain  was 
falling  with  tropical  violence,  and  all  the  landscape 
beyond  the  station  was  almost  invisible.  Already 
the  line  was  covered  with  water;  and  fears  were  ex- 
pressed by  the  staff  that  a  freshet  might  occur  in 
the  hills  and  the  railway  be  rendered  impassable 
and  possibly  be  breached.  As  the  day  wore  on, 
these  apprehensions  became  intensified.  In  the  after- 
noon the  train  from  Tong-ku  steamed  in,  literally 
ploughing  its  way  through  the  water.  The  driver 
reported  that  not  many  miles  from  Shanhaikwan  the 
floods  were  out  and  as  his  engine  passed  through 
them  the  fires  were  nearly  extinguished.  Another 
hour  would  render  the  line  impassable.  Pleasant 
tidings  these  for  me;  for  our  party  purposed  return- 
ing to  Tientsin  on  the  morrow,  and  some  of  us  were 
starting  for  Japan  the  day  after. 

My  rambles  that  afternoon  were  confined  to  the 
station  platform  and  the  house  of  some  friends  of 
Kell's,  who,  learning  of  my  forlorn  state,  had  most 
kindly  asked  him  to  bring  me  there  for  lunch  and 
dinner.  They  were  connected  with  the  railway; 


A  TRIP   TO   SHANHAIKWAN  163 

and  the  ladies  of  the  family  had  passed  through  an 
anxious  time  during  the  troubles,  but  had  bravely 
refused  to  seek  safety  in  flight. 

Next  day  the  rain  still  continued.  Reports  came 
in  that  the  line  was  impassable.  The  station  was 
completely  isolated  from  the  rest  of  the  world. 
Those  of  my  party  who  were  living  with  the 
Gurkhas,  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  no  train  could 
start,  essayed  to  drive  down  to  it  in  native  carts. 
The  stream  over  which  the  friendly  Chinaman  had 
carried  us  was  in  flood ;  and  as  they  endeavoured  to 
cross  it,  horses,  vehicles,  and  passengers  were  nearly 
swept  away.  One  smaller  cart  with  their  luggage 
was  carried  some  distance  down  from  the  ford  ;  and 
kit-bags  and  portmanteaus  were  only  rescued  with 
the  greatest  difficulty.  An  invaluable  collection  of 
films  and  negatives  belonging  to  one  of  the  party, 
who  was  an  expert  photographer,  was  entirely  spoilt. 
It  was  a  real  loss,  as  they  contained  a  complete 
pictorial  record  of  North  China. 

The  low  ground  behind  the  station  was  flooded. 
I  watched  with  amusement  the  antics  of  a  number 
of  Cossacks,  who,  heedless  of  the  rain,  had  got 
together  planks  and  old  doors  torn  off  ruined  houses, 
and,  using  them  as  rafts,  had  organised  a  miniature 
regatta  on  the  pond  thus  formed.  Exciting  races 
took  place ;  and  a  friendly  dispute  over  one  resulted 
in  a  naval  battle  full  of  comic  incidents.  Like 
schoolboys,  they  charged  each  other's  rafts  and 
if  capsized  continued  the  struggle  in  the  water. 


164          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

One,  diving  beneath  the  surface,  would  suddenly 
reappear  beneath  an  enemy's  vessel,  tilt  it  on  end, 
and  precipitate  the  occupants  into  the  muddy  flood, 
to  be  immediately  grappled  by  them  and  ducked. 

In  the  morning  a  letter  from  Captain  Labertouche 
was  brought  me  by  a  trooper  of  the  $rd  Bombay 
Light  Cavalry,  who  had  been  forced  to  swim  his 
horse  across  a  swollen  stream  in  order  to  reach  the 
station.  I  chatted  for  some  time  with  the  man — a 
fine,  lithe  specimen  of  the  Indian  sowar.  Anxious 
to  hear  every  expression  of  the  impression  which 
the  Russian  troops  had  made  upon  our  native  rank- 
and-file,  I  asked  him  his  opinion  of  them. 

"  They  are  not  bad,  sahib,"  he  replied  in  Hindu- 
stani. Then,  with  an  expressive  shrug,  he  added, 
"  But  they  will  never  get  into  India." 

The  remark  was  significant,  for  it  showed  not 
only  what  our  men  thought  of  the  soldiers  of  the 
Czar,  but  also  that  the  possibility  of  the  Russian 
invasion  is  occasionally  discussed  amongst  them, 
only  to  be  dismissed  with  contempt. 

Our  Indian  contingent,  one  and  all,  have  con- 
ceived a  wonderful  disdain  of  most  of  the  troops 
of  the  other  nationalities  with  whom  they  were 
brought  in  contact  in  China.  They  had  the 
greatest  admiration  and  affection  for  the  gallant 
little  Japanese,  but  considered  their  training  obso- 
lete. The  Russians  they  regarded  with  little 
respect  and  no  dread,  and  looked  upon  them  as 
scarcely  civilised.  The  Infanterie  Coloniale,  of 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  165 

whom  they  saw  a  good  deal,  filled  them  with  the 
greatest  contempt,  undeserved  though  it  was,  for 
the  whole  French  army.  And  I  wish  that  the 
armchair  critics,  who  condemn  our  forces  and  hold 
up  the  Germans  as  models  to  be  slavishly  followed 
in  every  respect,  could  have  heard  the  opinion 
formed  of  them  by  these  shrewd  fighting  men, 
Sikh,  Gurkha,  and  Punjaubi,  whose  lives  have  been 
passed  in  war. 

An  instance  of  the  friendship  existing  between 
our  sepoys  and  the  Japanese  came  under  my  notice 
that  day.  On  the  railway  platform  some  Gurkhas 
and  a  few  of  the  4th  Punjaub  Infantry  were  loiter- 
ing or  sitting  about  watching  the  heavy  rain. 
Three  or  four  Japanese  soldiers  came  into  the 
station  and  promptly  sat  down  beside  the  Gurkhas, 
greeting  them  with  effusive  smiles.  I  was  struck 
by  the  similarity  in  feature  between  the  two  races. 
Dressed  in  the  same  uniform,  it  would  be  difficult 
to  distinguish  between  them.  They  are  about  the 
same  height  and  build,  and  very  much  alike  in  face  ; 
though  the  Japanese  is  lighter  coloured.  Before 
long  the  mixed  party  were  exchanging  cigarettes 
and  chatting  away  volubly ;  though  the  few  words 
of  English  each  knew,  eked  out  by  signs,  could 
have  been  the  only  medium  of  intercourse. 

A  Pathan  sepoy  was  sitting  alone  on  a  bench. 
To  him  came  up  another  little  white- clad  soldier 
of  Dai  Nippon.  He  proffered  a  cigarette  and 
gesticulated  wildly.  Before  I  realised  his  meaning, 


166          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 


he  had  removed  the  Pathan's  /a^rz  from  his  head, 
replaced  it  with  his  own  cap,  and  donned  the 
borrowed  headgear  himself.  Then  he  strutted  up 
and  down  the  platform  amid  the  laughing  applause 
of  his  comrades  and  the  Gurkhas.  The  Pathan, 
highly  amused,  joined  in  the  merriment.  I  had 
noticed  a  Dogra  sepoy  standing  by  himself  with 
eyes  fixed  on  the  ground,  lost  in  deep  thought. 
Suddenly  a  cheery  little  Japanese  soldier,  motion- 
ing to  the  audience  on  the  benches  not  to  betray 
him,  stole  up  quietly  behind  the  Dogra,  seized  him 
round  the  waist,  and  lifted  the  astonished  six-foot 
sepoy  into  the  air.  Then  with  a  grin  he  replaced 
him  on  his  feet,  and  with  mutual  smiles  they  shook 
hands. 

When  the  day  comes  for  our  Indian  army  to 
fight  shoulder  to  shoulder  with  its  comrades  of 
Japan,  a  bond  stronger  than  a  paper  alliance  will 
hold  them  ;  and  their  only  rivalry  will  be  as  to  which 
shall  outstrip  the  other  in  their  rush  on  the  foe. 

All  that  day  reports  of  houses  used  as  barracks 
half  collapsing  under  the  heavy  rain  reached  the 
station.  My  friends  who  were  living  with  the 
Gurkha  officers  were  nearly  washed  out. 

Once  during  the  occupation  of  Shanhaikwan, 
when  a  similar  deluge  rendered  the  Chinese  huts 
occupied  by  some  foreign  troops  there  untenable, 
their  commander  sought  the  aid  of  the  colonel  of 
the  Gurkha  Regiment,  who  offered  to  share  the 
village  in  which  his  men  were  quartered  with  the 


A  TRIP  TO   SHANHAIKWAN  167 

others.  The  offer  was  gratefully  accepted.  The 
Gurkhas  made  their  guests  welcome ;  but  the  latter 
soon  began  to  jeer  at  and  insult  them,  and  call 
them  coolies — the  usual  term  of  reproach  which 
the  Continental  troops  hurled  at  our  sepoys.  Now, 
the  Gurkhas  are  not  naturally  either  pacific  or 
humble ;  and  it  was  only  with  the  greatest  difficulty 
that  the  fiery  little  soldiers  were  restrained  from 
drawing  their  deadly  kukris  and  introducing  the 
guests  to  that  national  and  favourite  weapon. 
On  the  conduct  of  his  men  being  reported  to  the 
foreign  commander,  he  sent  a  written,  but  not 
very  full,  apology  to  the  Gurkha  colonel. 

Towards  evening  the  rain  ceased,  and  the  floods 
subsided  as  rapidly  as  they  had  arisen.  So  the 
following  day  saw  us  on  our  way  back  to  Tientsin. 
At  one  of  the  stations  an  old  friend  of  mine  entered 
our  carriage.  He  was  an  officer  of  the  4th  Pun- 
jaub  Infantry,  Captain  Gray,  the  son  of  a  well- 
known  and  very  popular  Don  of  Trinity  College, 
Dublin.  He  had  just  received  a  report  from  the 
native  officer  commanding  a  detachment  in  a  village 
near  the  canal  which  runs  beside  the  railway.  This 
jemadar  had  been  sitting  in  front  of  his  quarters 
watching  the  boats  pass,  when  something  about  one 
of  them  aroused  his  suspicion  and  caused  him  to 
order  the  boat  to  stop  and  come  into  the  bank. 
Three  Chinamen  in  it  sprang  out  and  rushed  away 
into  the  high  crops.  The  boat  was  laden  with  cases, 
which,  on  search,  proved  to  contain  eighty  new 


168          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

barrels  of  Mauser  and  Mannlicher  magazine  rifles. 
Besides  these  there  were  five  boxes  of  cartridges 
and  several  casks  of  powder.  This  is  but  a  small 
instance  of  the  enormous  extent  to  which  the 
smuggling  of  arms  goes  on.  The  brigands  were 
provided  with  weapons  of  the  latest  pattern  and 
excellent  make.  The  Germans  are  the  chief 
offenders  here  as  in  Africa  and  elsewhere. 

Another  officer  of  the  4th  Punjaub  joined  our 
train  later  on.  He  was  Lieutenant  Stirling,  who 
worthily  gained  the  D.S.O.  for  his  brave  exploit 
when  Major  Browning,  of  his  regiment,  fell  in  an 
attack  with  eighty  men  on  walled  villages  held  by 
thousands  of  brigands.  Stirling  refused  to  abandon 
the  body,  and  carried  it  back,  retiring  slowly  over 
seven  miles  of  open  country,  attacked  by  swarms 
of  mounted  robbers,  who  feared  to  charge  home 
upon  the  steady  ranks  of  the  gallant  Punjaubis. 
He  was  wounded  himself  in  the  fight. 

In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Tientsin. 


CHAPTER   VIII 
OUR   STRONGHOLD   IN   THE   FAR   EAST 

HONG  KONG  AND  THE  KOWLOON  HINTERLAND 
HONG  KONG 

EOGRAPHICALLY,  of  course,  Hong  Kong 
is  very  far  from  North  China.  But  it  was 
the  base  of  our  expeditionary  force  in  the  recent 
campaign.  From  it  went  the  first  troops  that  helped 
to  save  Tientsin ;  and  one  brigade  of  Indian  regi- 
ments was  diverted  from  General  Gaselee's  com- 
mand to  strengthen  its  garrison.  For  in  the  event 
of  disturbances  in  Canton,  or  a  successful  rebellion 
in  the  southern  provinces,  it  would  have  been  in 
great  danger.  As  our  base  for  all  future  operations 
in  the  Far  East,  it  is  of  vast  military  as  well  as 
naval  and  commercial  importance  and  well  merits 
description.  In  complications  or  wars  with  other 
Powers,  Hong  Kong  would  be  the  first  point  in 
the  East  threatened  or  assailed.  Lying  as  it  does 
on  what  would  be  our  trans- Pacific  route  to  India, 
it  is  almost  of  as  much  importance  to  our  Empire 
as  Capetown  or  the  Suez  Canal.  Its  magnificent 
dockyards,  which  are  capable  of  taking  our  largest 
battleships  on  the  China  station,  are  the  only  ones 

169 


i;o          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

we  possess  east  of  Bombay ;  and  so  it  is  of  equal 
value  to  our  fleet,  besides  being  the  naval  base  for 
coal,  ammunition,  and  supplies,  without  which  the 
finest  ship  that  floats  would  be  helpless. 

Looked  at  from  other  than  a  military  point  of 
view,  Hong  Kong  is  an  object-lesson  of  our  Empire 
that  should  fill  the  hearts  of  Imperialists  with 
pardonable  pride.  A  little  more  than  half  a  century 
ago  it  was  but  a  bleak  and  barren  island,  tenanted 
only  by  a  few  fisherfolk.  It  produced  nothing,  and 
animal  life  could  scarce  be  supported  on  it.  But 
now,  touched  by  the  magic  wand  of  British  trade, 
how  wonderful  is  the  transformation  !  A  magnifi- 
cent city,  with  stately  buildings  climbing  in  tier 
after  tier  from  the  sea.  The  most  European  town 
between  Calcutta  and  San  Francisco.  The  third, 
some  say  the  second,  largest  shipping  port  in  the 
world.  The  harbour  to  which  turn  the  countless 
prows  of  British,  American,  German,  French, 
Austrian,  and  Japanese  vessels ;  where  the  vast 
current  of  the  trade  of  the  world  with  the  Far 
East  flows  in,  to  issue  forth  again  in  an  infinitude 
of  smaller  streams  to  every  part  of  China  and  the 
Philippines. 

Yet,  though  the  barren  hillsides  are  covered  with 
houses,  though  a  large  population  of  white  men 
and  yellow  inhabit  it,  and  its  harbour  is  crowded 
with  shipping,  the  island  itself  is  still  as  unpro- 
ductive as  ever.  Not  merely  is  mineral  wealth 
unknown  and  manufactures  practically  nil,  but 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    171 

Hong  Kong  cannot  provide  enough  of  foodstuffs 
to  support  its  inhabitants  for  half  a  day.  From 
Canton,  almost  a  hundred  miles  away  up  the  Pearl 
River,  comes  everything  required  to  feed  both 
Europeans  and  Chinese.  Each  morning  the  large, 
flat-bottomed  steamers  that  ply  between  the  two 
cities  carry  down  meat  or  cattle,  fish,  rice,  vege- 
tables of  all  kinds,  fruit,  even  flowers ;  and  were 
communications  interrupted  by  storm  or  war  for 
a  few  days,  Hong  Kong  would  starve.  For  neither 
the  island  nor  the  couple  of  hundred  square  miles 
of  adjacent  mainland,  the  Kowloon  Hinterland, 
which  we  took  over  in  1898,  could  produce  enough 
to  feed  one  regiment ;  and  although  two  months' 
supply  of  provisions  for  the  whole  population,  white 
and  yellow,  is  supposed  to  be  stored,  it  is  never 
done.  Therein  lies  Hong  Kong's  great  danger. 
Let  Canton  refuse  or  be  prevented  from  feeding 
her,  and  she  must  starve. 

The  secret  of  her  rapid  rise  and  present  great- 
ness lies  in  the  fact  that  she  is  the  great  mart,  the 
distributing  centre,  whence  European  or  American 
goods,  arriving  in  large  bottoms,  are  sent  out  again 
in  small  coasting  steamers  or  junks  to  reach  the 
smallest  markets  for  Western  commerce.  And  her 
prosperity  will  continue  and  be  vastly  increased  if 
the  long  -  projected  railway  to  Canton,  to  meet 
another  tapping  the  great  inland  resources  of 
China,  is  ever  built ;  although  the  Americans  fondly 


172          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

hope  that  Manilla  under  their  energetic  rule  will 
one  day  rival  and  even  excel  her. 

Hong  Kong  is  an  island  of  irregular  shape,  about 
nine  miles  in  length  and  six  miles  broad  in  its 
widest  portion,  and  consists  of  one  long  chain  of 
hills,  that  rise  almost  perpendicularly  from  the  sea. 
Scarcely  the  smallest  spot  of  naturally  level  ground 
is  to  be  found.  Around  are  countless  other  islands, 
large  and  small,  all  equally  mountainous.  It  lies 
close  to  the  Chinese  mainland,  the  Kau-lung,  or 
Kowloon  Peninsula;  and  the  portion  of  sea  en- 
closed between  them  forms  the  harbour.  At  one 
extremity  of  the  island  this  is  a  mile  across ;  and  at 
the  other  it  narrows  down  to  a  strait  known  as  the 
Lyeemoon  Pass,  only  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad. 
In  the  centre  the  harbour  is  about  two  miles  in 
width.  The  high  hills  of  island  and  mainland — for 
the  latter  is  but  a  series  of  broken,  mountainous 
masses  rising  two  or  three  thousand  feet — shelter  it 
from  the  awful  typhoons  that  ravage  the  coast. 

Approaching  Hong  Kong  by  steamer  there  lies 
before  us  a  confused  jumble  of  hills,  which  gradually 
resolve  themselves  into  islands  fronting  the  moun- 
tainous background  of  the  mainland.  All,  without 
exception,  spring  up  from  the  water's  edge  in  steep 
slopes,  with  never  a  yard  of  level  ground  save 
where  an  occasional  tiny  bay  shows  a  small  stretch 
of  sparkling  sandy  beach.  Granite  cliffs  carved 
into  a  thousand  quaint  designs,  or  honeycombed 
with  caverns  by  the  white  -  fringed  waves ;  steep 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    173 

grassy  slopes,  with  scarcely  a  bush  upon  them, 
rising  up  to  a  conical  peak ;  here  and  there  a 
fisher's  hut,  the  only  sign  of  human  habitation- 
such  are  they  almost  all.  At  last  one  larger  than 
the  others.  On  the  long  ridge  of  the  lofty  summits 
of  its  hills  the  slated  roofs  and  high  walls  of  Euro- 
pean buildings  outlined  against  the  sky,  and  we 
know  that  we  are  nearing  Hong  Kong.  Swinging 
round  a  bluff  shoulder  of  this  island,  we  enter  the 
land  -  locked  harbour.  On  the  right  the  myriad 
houses  climbing  in  terraces  above  each  other  from 
the  water's  edge,  long  lines  of  stately  buildings,  the 
spires  of  churches  come  into  view.  It  is  the  city  of 
Victoria,  or  Hong  Kong.  The  harbour,  sheltered 
by  the  lofty  hills  of  island  and  mainland,  is  crowded 
with  shipping.  The  giant  bulks  of  battleships  and 
cruisers,  the  tall  masts  of  sailing  vessels,  the  gaily 
painted  funnels  of  passenger  and  merchant  steamers, 
the  quaint  sails  and  weird  shapes  of  junks,  the 
countless  little  sampans  or  native  boats,  a  numerous 
flotilla  of  steam  launches,  rushing  hither  and  thither. 
Ahead  of  us  the  hills  of  island  and  mainland  ap- 
proach each  other  until  they  almost  touch,  and 
tower  up  on  either  hand  above  the  narrow  channel 
of  the  Lyeemoon  Pass.  On  the  left  a  small,  bush- 
clad,  conical  isle,  with  a  lighthouse — Green  Island  ; 
another,  long  and  straggling — Stonecutters'  Island, 
with  the  sharp  outlines  of  forts  and  barracks  and 
the  ruins  of  an  old  convict  prison. 

Behind  them  the  mainland.     A  small  extent  of 


174          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

comparatively  level  land  covered  with  houses,  the 
curving  line  of  a  pretty  bay,  low,  pine-clad  hills. 
This  is  the  very  modern  suburb  of  Kowloon,  which 
has  been  created  to  take  the  overflow  of  European 
and  Chinese  population  from  Hong  Kong.  Here 
will  be  the  terminus  of  the  railway  to  Canton — 
when  it  is  built.  And  behind,  towering  grim  and 
dark  to  the  sky,  stands  a  long  chain  of  barren 
mountains  that  guard  the  approach  from  the  land- 
ward side.  Behind  them  range  upon  range  of 
other  hills.  Such  is  the  Kowloon  Peninsula. 

Hong  Kong,  with  the  blue  water  of  its  harbour, 
the  dark  hills  towering  precipitously  above  the 
town,  the  walls  of  whose  houses  are  gaily  painted 
in  bright  colours,  is  one  of  the  loveliest  places  on 
earth.  After  long  days  on  board  ship,  where  the 
eye  tires  of  the  interminable  monotony  of  sea  and 
sky,  it  seems  doubly  beautiful.  And  one  marvels 
to  find  this  English  lodgment  on  the  coast  of  China 
a  city  of  stately  buildings,  of  lofty  clubs  and  many- 
storied  hotels,  of  magnificent  offices  and  splendid 
shops,  of  well-built  barracks  and  princely  villas. 

The  town  of  Victoria — for  Hong  Kong,  though 
used  for  it,  is  really  the  name  of  the  island — stretches 
for  miles  along  the  water's  edge,  being  for  the  most 
part  built  on  reclaimed  ground ;  for  the  hills  thrust 
themselves  forward  to  the  sea.  Up  their  steep  sides 
the  houses  clamber  in  tier  upon  tier  until  they  end 
under  the  frowning  face  of  a  rocky  precipice  that 
reaches  up  to  the  summit.  And  there  along  its 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    175 

ridge,  which  is  called  the  Peak,  1,800  feet  above  the 
sea,  are  more  houses.  Large  hotels,  villas,  and 
barracks — for  it  is  fast  becoming  the  residential 
quarter  for  Europeans — are  perched  upon  its  nar- 
row breadth,  seemingly  absolutely  inaccessible  from 
below.  But  a  thin,  almost  perpendicular,  line  against 
the  face  of  the  hill  shows  how  they  are  reached  by 
a  cable  tramway,  which,  in  ten  minutes,  brings  its 
passengers  from  the  steamy  atmosphere  of  Victoria 
to  the  cool  breezes  of  the  Peak — another  climate 
altogether. 

The  city  practically  consists  of  one  long  street, 
which  runs  from  end  to  end  of  the  island  and  is 
several  miles  in  length.  On  the  steep  landward 
side  smaller  streets  run  off  at  right  angles  and 
climb  the  hills,  many  of  them  in  flights  of  steps. 
On  the  slopes  above  the  town  are  one  or  two  long 
roads  parallel  to  the  main  street  and  consisting  alto- 
gether of  residential  buildings,  churches,  convents, 
and  schools. 

But  this  main  street — Queen's  Road  as  it  is 
named — is  wonderful.  At  the  western  extremity 
near  Belcher's  Fort,  the  end  of  the  island  round 
which  our  steamer  passed,  it  begins  in  two  or  three- 
storied  Chinese  houses,  the  shops  on  the  ground 
floor  being  under  colonnades.  Then  come  store 
and  warehouses,  offices,  and  small  Chinese  shops 
where  gaudy  garments  and  quaint  forms  of  food  are 
sold,  interspersed  with  saloons,  bars,  and  drinking- 
shops  of  all  kinds,  which  cater  for  merchant  sailors, 


176          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

soldiers,  and  bluejackets  of  every  nationality,  the 
well-paid  American  tars  being  most  in  evidence 
among  their  customers.  Beyond  this  the  Queen's 
Road  is  lined  with  splendid  European-looking  shops 
with  extensive  premises  and  large  plate-glass  fronts, 
finer  than  many  in  Bond  Street  or  Regent  Street, 
though  not  as  expensive.  Some  of  them,  mostly 
kept  by  Chinamen,  sell  Chinese  or  Japanese  curios, 
silver-work  or  embroideries,  pottery  or  blackwood 
furniture.  Others,  generally,  though  not  always,  run 
by  Europeans,  are  tailoring  and  millinery  establish- 
ments, chemists,  book  or  print  shops.  The  side- 
walks run  under  colonnades  which  afford  a  grateful 
shade.  Here  are  found  a  few  of  the  smaller  hotels  ; 
and  the  magnificent  caravanserai  of  the  high  Hong 
Kong  hotel  stretches  from  the  harbour  to  the  street. 
Then  come  some  fine  banks,  the  building  of  the 
Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai  Banking  Corporation 
being  a  splendid  piece  of  architecture.  Opposite  it 
a  sloping  road,  with  lovely  fern-clad  banks  and  trees, 
leads  upward  to  the  cathedral  and  to  Government 
House.  Past  the  banks,  a  little  back  from  the 
thoroughfare,  is  the  fine  City  Hall,  which  contains 
a  museum  and  a  theatre,  as  well  as  large  ball  and 
concert  rooms,  in  which  most  of  the  social  gaieties 
of  Hong  Kong  take  place. 

Here  occurs  the  one  break  in  the  long  line  of 
the  Queen's  Road.  On  the  seaward  side,  fenced 
in  by  railings,  lies  the  cricket-ground  with  its  pretty 
pavilion.  Between  it  and  the  harbour  stands  the 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    177 

splendid  structure  of  the  Hong  Kong  Club,  a  mag- 
nificent four-storied  building.  Few  clubs  east  of  Pall 
Mall  can  rival  its  palatial  accommodation.  From 
the  ground-floor,  where  billiard-rooms  and  a  large 
bowling  alley  are  found,  a  splendid  staircase, 
dividing  into  two  wings,  leads  to  a  magnificent 
central  hall  on  the  first  floor.  Off  this  is  a  large 
reading-room,  where  a  great  number  of  British, 
American,  and  Continental  journals  are  kept. 
Electric  fans,  revolving  from  the  ceiling,  cool  the 
room  in  the  damp,  hot  days  of  the  long  and  un- 
pleasant summer.  On  the  same  floor  are  the 
secretary's  offices,  a  luxurious  public  dressing-room, 
and  a  large  bar,  which  opens  on  to  a  wide  verandah 
overlooking  the  harbour.  From  it  one  can  gaze 
over  the  water,  crowded  with  shipping,  to  the 
rugged  hills  of  the  mainland.  In  front  lie  the 
warships  of  many  nations.  Close  inshore  is  a 
small  fleet  of  sampans  crowded  together,  their 
crews,  male  and  female,  chattering  volubly  or 
screaming  recriminations  from  boat  to  boat.  From 
a  tiny  pier  near  the  Club  the  steam  pinnace  of  an 
American  man-o'-war  shoots  out  into  the  stream, 
passing  a  couple  of  gigs  from  British  warships 
conveying  officers  in  mufti  ashore. 

On  the  next  floor  are  the  dining-rooms  and  a 
splendid  library.  Above  these  again  are  the 
members'  bedrooms,  bath  and  dressing  rooms. 
Altogether,  internally  and  externally,  the  Club  is 


178          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

worthy  to  rank  with  almost  any  similar  institu- 
tion in  the  Empire. 

On  Queen's  Road,  facing  the  cricket-ground,  is 
a  small,  square  open  space  below  the  cathedral, 
raised  above  the  level  of  the  street,  as  the  ground 
slopes  upward.  It  is  known  as  the  Garrison 
Brigade  Parade  Ground.  During  the  recent  cam- 
paign it  was  used  as  the  store-ground  of  the  Indian 
Commissariat,  where  huge  mat-sheds  covered  enor- 
mous piles  of  supplies  for  the  troops  in  China. 
Here  the  hard- worked  base  commissariat  officer, 
Major  Williams,  watched  the  vast  stores  arriving 
daily  from  India,  and  despatched  the  supplies  for 
the  army  in  the  North  and  the  Indian  brigades  at 
Shanghai  and  Kowloon.  Beside  the  parade  ground 
a  road  climbs  the  hill  and  passes  the  station  for  the 
cable  tramway,  which  is  but  a  short  distance  up. 

Beyond  this  one  gap  in  its  continuous  fencing  of 
houses  the  Queen's  Road  runs  on  past  the  Naval 
Dockyard — where  Commodore  Sir  Francis  Powell, 
K.C.M.G.,  had  such  heavy  labour  all  through  the 
troublous  time  in  China — and  the  Provost  Prison 
on  the  seaward  side,  and  the  barracks  of  the  British 
troops  and  the  arsenal  on  the  other.  Then  the 
military  hospital  and  the  ordnance  yards,  crowded 
with  guns,  from  the  twelve-inch  naval  monsters  to 
the  stubby  howitzers  or  long  six-inch  on  field-car- 
riages. Then  more  barracks.  Then  it  runs  on 
again  into  Chinese  shops,  their  upper  stories  used 
as  boarding-houses  for  Celestials ;  and,  turning  down 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    179 

to  the  harbour  and  following  the  shore  line,  it  is 
bordered  with  coal-yards,  godowns,  and  warehouses. 
Near  this  end  are  the  two  open  spaces  of  the 
island,  where  the  hills,  retreating  from  the  sea,  have 
left  valleys  which  the  sport-loving  Britisher  has 
seized  upon  for  recreation  grounds.  The  first  and 
larger  one,  known  as  the  Happy  Valley,  is  a  lovely 
spot.  All  around  the  tree-clad  hills  ring  it  in,  rising 
precipitously  from  its  level  stretch  on  which  is  a 
racecourse,  its  centre  portion  being  devoted  to  other 
games.  A  fine  grand  stand  is  flanked  by  a  block 
of  red -brick  buildings,  the  lower  stones  of  which 
are  used  during  race  meetings  as  stables  for  the 
horses  and  ponies  running.  The  upper,  with  open 
fronts  looking  out  on  the  course,  are  used  as 
luncheon  rooms,  where  the  regimental  messes,  the 
members  of  the  clubs,  and  large  hongs  (or  merchant 
firms)  and  private  residents  entertain  their  friends 
during  the  meetings.  Surely  no  other  racecourse 
in  the  world  is  set  in  such  lovely  scenery  as  this  in 
its  arena,  surrounded  by  the  mountains  that  tower 
above  it  on  every  side.  And  that  a  memento 
mori  may  not  be  wanting  in  the  midst  of  gaiety, 
just  behind  the  grand  stand  lie  the  cemeteries — 
Christian,  Mussulman,  Hindu,  and  Parsee.  Up 
the  sides  of  the  steep  hills  the  white  crosses  and 
tombstones  gleam  amongst  the  dark  foliage  of  the 
trees ;  and  the  spirits  of  the  dead  can  look  down 
from  their  graves  upon  the  scene  of  former 
pleasures. 


i8o          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

A  little  farther  on  is  another  and  smaller  valley 
used  as  a  polo  ground.  Previous  to  the  advent  of 
the  Indian  troops  in  1900  the  game  was  played 
here  almost  exclusively  on  Chinese  ponies.  But  the 
Arabs  used  by  the  officers  of  the  22nd  Bombay 
Infantry,  by  that  excellent  sportsman,  H.  H.  Major, 
the  Maharajah  of  Bikanir,  and  other  members  of 
the  China  expeditionary  force,  so  completely 
outclassed  the  diminutive  Chinese  ponies  that  a 
revolution  was  caused  in  the  class  of  animals  re- 
quired for  the  game.  Small  Walers  from  Australia 
and  Arabs  from  India  have  been  freely  introduced, 
much  to  the  benefit  of  polo  in  Hong  Kong. 

At  the  polo  ground  the  city  ends  at  present ; 
though  every  day  its  limits  are  extending.  From 
here  the  road  runs  along  close  to  the  sea,  protected 
from  the  waves  by  a  wall,  and  clinging  to  the  flanks 
of  the  hills.  It  passes  an  occasional  row  of  Chinese- 
occupied  houses,  a  lone  hotel  or  two,  the  site  of 
the  immense  new  docks  in  process  of  construction, 
large  sugar  works,  with  a  colony  of  houses  for  its 
employees,  and  an  overhead  wire  tramway  leading 
to  their  sanatorium  on  the  high  peak  above,  until 
it  reaches  the  Lyeemoon  Pass.  Here  the  hills 
narrow  in  and  press  down  to  the  sea,  thrusting 
themselves  forward  to  meet  the  hills  of  the  main- 
land on  the  other  side.  A  strait,  only  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  broad,  separates  them ;  and  here  on  either 
hand,  high  above  the  water,  stand  modern  and 
well-armed  forts,  which,  with  a  Brennan  torpedo, 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    181 

effectually  close  the  narrow  entrance  of  the  harbour 
to  any  hostile  ships  that  venture  to  force  a  passage. 

Thus  ends  the  northern  and  more  important  side 
of  the  island.  On  the  southern  and  ocean-ward 
shore  lie  the  ill-fated  and  practically  deserted 
towns  of  Stanley  and  Aberdeen,  where  many  years 
ago  the  British  troops  garrisoning  them  were  so 
decimated  by  fever  and  disease  that  this  side  of 
the  island  was  abandoned,  and  Victoria  has  become 
practically  Hong  Kong. 

The  Peak  is  altogether  another  world  from  the 
city  that  lies  in  the  steamy  atmosphere  below. 
Let  us  ascend  in  one  of  the  trams  that  are  dragged 
up  to  the  summit  by  the  wire  cables.  Seated  in 
the  car,  we  are  drawn  up  rapidly  at  a  weird  and 
uncomfortable  angle  ;  for  the  slope  of  the  line  is,  in 
places,  i  in  2.  Up  the  steep  sides  of  the  hill  we 
go,  feeling  a  curious  sensation  as  we  are  tilted  back 
on  the  benches  and  see  the  trees  and  houses  on 
each  side  all  leaning  over  at  an  absurd  angle. 
Even  such  a  respectable  structure  as  a  church 
seems  to  be  lying  back  towards  the  hillside  in  a 
tipsy  and  undignified  manner.  This  curious  optical 
effect  is  caused  by  the  inclined  position  of  the  roof 
and  floor,  as  well  as  of  the  passengers,  with  the 
horizontal.  We  pass  over  a  bridge  across  a  pretty 
road  lined  with  stone  villas,  by  large  and  well-built 
houses  that  grow  fewer  and  fewer  as  we  mount 
upward.  Here  and  there  we  stop  at  a  small  plat- 
form representing  a  station,  where  passengers  come 


182 

on  or  leave  the  tram.  The  down  car  passes  us 
with  a  rush.  The  long  ridge  of  the  Peak,  crowned 
with  houses,  comes  into  view.  Turning  round  in 
our  slanting  seats  we  look  down  on  the  rapidly 
diminishing  city  and  the  harbour,  now  a  thousand 
feet  below  us.  At  last  we  reach  the  summit  and 
step  out  on  a  platform  with  waiting-rooms,  the 
terminus  of  the  line.  Now  we  see  how  the  wire 
cable  runs  on  over  pulleys  into  the  engine-house 
and  is  wound  round  the  huge  iron  drums. 

As  we  stand  on  the  platform  there  towers  above 
us,  on  the  left,  a  large  and  many-windowed  hotel, 
the  Mount  Austin.  Along  the  fronts  of  its  three 
stories  run  verandahs  with  arched  colonnades.  This 
is  a  favourite  place  of  resort  for  visitors ;  and  many 
residents,  unwilling  to  face  the  troubles  of  house- 
keeping, take  up  their  permanent  abode  here. 

Outside  the  station  is  a  line  of  waiting  coolies, 
ready  to  convey  passengers  in  their  open  cane 
sedan  chairs  with  removable  hoods.  A  Sikh 
policeman  standing  close  by  keeps  them  in  order 
and  cuts  short  their  frequent  squabbles.  The  road 
and  paths,  which  are  cemented  and  provided  with 
well-made  drains  running  alongside  to  carry  off  the 
torrential  rains  of  the  summer  and  thus  prevent  the 
roadway  from  being  washed  away,  are  too  steep  in 
their  ascents  and  descents  to  make  the  ricksha — 
Hong  Kong's  favourite  vehicle — useful  up  here. 

Standing  on  the  narrow  ridge  of  the  Peak,  we  can 
look  down  upon  the  sea  on  either  hand.  A  wonder- 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    183 

ful  view  unfolds  itself  to  our  gaze.  On  the  northern 
side  the  city  of  Victoria  lies  almost  straight  below 
us,  its  streets  and  roofs  forming  a  chessboard- 
pattern.  We  can  easily  trace  the  long,  sinuous  line 
of  the  Queen's  Road.  From  this  height  the  largest 
battleships  and  mail  steamers  in  the  harbour  look  no 
bigger  than  walnuts.  Beyond,  the  suburb  of  Kow- 
loon  lies  in  sharp  lines  and  tiny  squares ;  and  behind 
it  rise  up  the  hills  of  the  mainland,  dwarfed  in  size. 
Now  we  can  see  plainly  the  interminable  ranges 
of  mountains — chain  after  chain — of  the  Kowloon 
Peninsula,  with  the  lofty  peaks  of  Tai-mo-shan  and 
Tai-u-shan  over  3,000  feet  high.  The  coastline  is 
straggling  and  indented  with  numerous  bays,  the 
shores  rising  up  in  steep,  grassy  slopes  to  the  hills 
or  presenting  a  line  of  rocky  cliffs  to  the  waves. 
Here  and  there  pretty  cultivated  valleys  run  back 
from  the  sea  to  the  never-far-distant  mountains. 

Turning  round,  we  look  down  the  grass-clad 
slopes  of  the  south  side  of  the  island  to  tiny,  sandy 
bays  and  out  over  the  broad  expanse  of  the  sea,  in 
which  lie  many  large  and  small  islands.  Over  a 
hundred  can  be  counted  from  the  elevation  of  the 
Peak.  Close  by,  to  the  west,  is  the  largest  of  them 
all — the  barren  and  treeless  Lantau,  which  was  once 
nearly  chosen  instead  of  Hong  Kong  as  the  site 
of  the  British  settlement.  Below  us,  on  the  southern 
shore  of  our  island,  lie  the  practically  abandoned 
towns  of  Stanley  and  Aberdeen. 

Along  the  ridge  the  road  passes  by  large  and 


184          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

well-built  villas,  barracks,  the  Peak  Club,  a  church, 
and  many  boarding-houses.  The  European  inhabi- 
tants of  Hong  Kong  are  rapidly  abandoning  the 
lower  levels  and  taking  up  their  residence  here, 
where  the  climate,  with  its  cool  and  refreshing 
breezes,  is  delightful  in  the  long  summer  when 
Victoria  swelters  in  tropical  heat.  During  the  rainy 
season,  however,  the  Peak  is  continually  shrouded 
in  damp  mists;  and  fires  are  required  to  keep  rooms 
and  spare  garments  dry.  The  saying  in  Hong  Kong 
is  :  "If  you  live  on  the  Peak  your  clothes  rot ;  if  in 
Victoria  you  do.  Choose  which  you  value  more 
and  take  up  your  habitation  accordingly." 

The  cable  tramway  is  a  comparatively  recent  in- 
stitution ;  so  that  when  the  houses  on  the  summit 
were  being  built  all  the  materials  had  to  be  carried 
by  coolies  up  a  steep,  zigzagging  road  from  below. 
Even  now  most  of  the  supplies  for  the  dwellers  on 
the  heights  are  brought  up  in  the  same  primitive  and 
laborious  fashion.  In  the  morning  the  trams  are 
crowded  with  European  merchants,  bankers,  solici- 
tors and  their  clerks,  descending  to  their  offices  in 
the  city.  In  the  afternoon  they  are  filled  with  the 
gay  butterflies  of  society  going  up  or  down  to  pay 
calls,  shop,  or  play  tennis  and  croquet  at  the  Ladies' 
Recreation  Ground,  half-way  between  the  Peak  and 
Victoria.  The  red  coats  of  British  soldiers  are  seen 
in  the  cars  after  parade  hours  or  at  night,  when  they 
are  hurrying  back  to  barracks  before  tattoo. 

The  harbour  of  Hong  Kong  is  remarkable  for 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    185 

the  large  "  floating  population  "  of  Chinese,  who  live 
in  sampans  and  seldom  go  ashore  except  to  pur- 
chase provisions.  Their  boats  are  small,  generally 
not  twenty  feet  in  length,  with  a  single  mast,  decked, 
and  provided  with  a  small  well,  covered  with  a  hood, 
where  passengers  sit.  Under  the  planking  of  the 
deck,  in  a  tiny  space  without  ventilation,  with  only 
room  to  lie  prone,  the  crew — consisting,  perhaps,  of 
a  dozen  men,  women,  and  children — sleep.  Their 
cooking  is  done  with  a  brazier  or  wood  fire  placed 
on  a  flat  stone  in  the  bows.  The  children  tumble 
about  the  deck  unconcernedly  in  the  roughest 
weather.  The  smaller  ones  are  occasionally  tied  to 
the  mast  to  prevent  them  from  falling  overboard. 
The  babies  are  bound  in  a  bundle  behind  the 
shoulders  of  the  mothers,  who  pull  their  oars  or 
hoist  and  lower  the  sail  with  their  burdens  fastened 
on  to  them.  Thus  they  live,  thus  they  die ;  never 
sleeping  on  land  until  their  corpses  are  brought 
ashore  to  be  buried  amid  much  exploding  of 
crackers  and  burning  of  joss-sticks. 

These  sampans  are  freely  used  to  convey  pas- 
sengers to  and  from  ships  or  across  the  harbour. 
Formerly  cases  of  robbery  and  murder  were 
frequent  on  board  them ;  and  even  now  drunken 
sailors  occasionally  disappear  in  mysterious  fashion. 
The  hood  over  the  passengers'  seats  could  be 
suddenly  lowered  on  the  occupants  of  the  well ;  a 
few  blows  of  a  hatchet  sufficed  to  end  their  efforts 
to  free  themselves ;  the  bodies  were  then  robbed 


186          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

and  flung  overboard,  and  their  fate  remained  a 
secret  to  all  but  the  murderers.  But  stringent 
police  regulations  now  render  these  crimes  almost 
impossible.  At  night  all  sampans  must  anchor  at 
least  thirty  yards  from  the  shore.  If  hailed  by 
intending  passengers  they  are  allowed  to  come  only 
to  certain  piers  where  European  or  Indian  police 
officers  take  their  numbers  as  well  as  the  names 
and  destinations  of  those  about  to  embark  on  them. 
So  that  the  Hong  Kong  sampan  is  now  nearly  as 
safe  a  conveyance  as  the  London  hansom. 

Communication  between  Victoria  and  Kowloon 
is  maintained  by  a  line  of  large,  two-decked,  double- 
ended  steam  ferries,  that  cross  the  mile  of  water 
between  them  in  ten  minutes.  The  suburb  on  the 
mainland  is  of  very  recent  growth.  Ten  years  ago 
the  Observatory,  a  signal  station,  and  a  few  villas 
were  almost  the  only  buildings  ;  and  the  pinewoods 
ran  uninterruptedly  down  to  the  sea.  Now  Kow- 
loon possesses  large  warehouses,  two  hotels,  two 
fine  barracks,  long  streets  lined  with  shops  chiefly 
for  Chinese  customers,  and  terraces  of  houses 
occupied  by  Europeans.  These  are  generally  em- 
ployees in  the  dockyards  or  clerks,  or  the  families 
of  engineers  and  mates  of  the  small  steamers  that 
have  their  headquarters  in  Hong  Kong.  New 
streets  are  continually  springing  up,  connecting  it 
with  Yaumati,  a  large  Chinese  suburb,  or  spreading 
down  towards  Old  Kowloon  City,  three  miles  off. 
Near  the  ferry  pier  long  wharves  run  out  into  the 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    187 

harbour,  alongside  which  the  largest  vessels  of  the 
P.  and  O.  or  Norddeutscher- Lloyd  can  berth  and 
discharge  their  cargo.  Close  by  is  a  naval  yard, 
with  a  small  space  of  water  enclosed  by  stone  piers 
for  torpedo  craft.  Beside  it  are  huge  stacks  of  coal 
for  our  warships.  Just  above  rise  the  grass-covered 
ramparts  of  a  fort.  Near  this  are  the  fine  stone 
and  brick  barracks  built  for  the  Hong  Kong 
Regiment — a  corps  raised  and  recruited  in  Northern 
India  about  ten  years  ago  for  permanent  service 
in  this  Colony.  It  was  recently  disbanded  when 
Hong  Kong  was  added  to  the  list  of  places  over- 
seas to  be  garrisoned  by  the  Indian  army.  Its 
material  was  excellent ;  for  the  high  rate  of  pay — 
eighteen  rupees  a  month  with  free  rations  as  com- 
pared with  the  nine  rupees  and  no  rations  offered 
to  the  sepoy  in  India — gave  its  recruiting  officers 
the  pick  of  Mussulman  Punjaub,  for  it  was  a  com- 
pletely Mohammedan  regiment.  But  it  suffered 
from  the  disadvantage  of  being  permanently 
stationed  in  one  cramped-up  garrison  with  much 
guard  duty,  and  of  being  officered  by  men  coming 
at  random  from  various  Indian  regiments  rarely  of 
the  Punjaub,  or,  worse  still,  by  others  from  British 
regiments,  who  knew  absolutely  nothing  of  the 
sepoy  and  were  attracted  chiefly  by  the  higher  pay. 
On  the  Kowloon  side  two  companies  have  built 
large  and  ample  docks,  which  can  take  the  finest 
battleships  we  have  in  the  China  seas.  H.M.S. 
Goliath,  Ocean,  Albion^  Glory;  U.S. S.  Brooklyn 


i88          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

and  Kentucky  have  all  been  accommodated  there. 
As  they  are  the  only  docks  in  the  Far  East,  with 
the  exception  of  those  at  Nagasaki  in  Japan,  they 
are  used  by  all  foreign  as  well  as  British  warships 
and  merchantmen  ;  and  the  dividends  they  pay  are 
very  large.  Small  steamers  and  a  yacht  for  the 
King  of  Siam  have  been  constructed  in  them.  In 
Yaumati  and  Kowloon  many  Chinese  boat-building 
yards  have  sprung  up,  where  numbers  of  large  junks 
and  sampans  are  turned  out  every  year. 

Past  the  Kowloon  Docks,  above  which  tower  a 
couple  of  forts,  the  open  country  is  reached.  The 
road  runs  down  through  patches  of  market-gardens 
to  Old  Kowloon  City,  a  quaint  walled  Chinese 
town,  with  antique  iron  guns  rusting  on  ks  bastions. 
This  was  the  last  spot  of  territory  in  the  peninsula 
handed  over  to  the  British  by  the  Chinese. 
"  Handed  over "  is,  perhaps,  hardly  an  accurate 
description.  Although  ordered  by  their  Govern- 
ment to  surrender  it,  the  officials  refused  to  do  so. 
A  show  of  force  was  necessary ;  and  a  body  of 
regular  troops,  accompanied  by  the  Hong  Kong 
Volunteers,  marched  upon  the  place.  The  Chinese, 
locking  the  gates  and  throwing  away  the  keys,  dis- 
appeared over  the  walls  and  bolted  into  the  country. 
It  was  necessary  to  effect  an  entry  by  burglary. 
High  hills  tower  above  the  city;  and  just  beyond  it 
they  close  in  to  the  Lyeemoon  Pass. 

To  one  unused  to  the  East,  Hong  Kong  is 
intensely  interesting.  The  streets,  lined  with 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    189 

European-looking  shops,  are  crowded  with  a  strange 
medley  of  races — white,  black,  or  yellow.  Daintily 
garbed  English  ladies  step  from  their  rickshas  and 
enter  milliner)7  establishments,  the  windows  of 
which  display  the  latest  fashions  of  Paris  and 
London.  Straight-limbed  British  soldiers,  clad  in 
the  familiar  scarlet  of  the  Line  and  blue  of  the 
Royal  Artillery  or  in  the  now  as  well-known  khaki, 
stroll  along  the  pavement,  bringing  their  hands  to 
their  helmets  in  a  smart  salute  to  a  passing  officer. 
Sturdy  bluejackets  of  our  Royal  Navy  walk  arm-in- 
arm with  sailors  from  the  numerous  American 
warships  in  the  harbour.  A  group  of  spectacled 
Chinese  students  move  by,  chattering  volubly. 
Long,  lithe  Bengal  Lancers,  in  khaki  blouses  reach- 
ing to  the  knee,  blue  putties,  and  spurred  ankle- 
boots,  gaudy  pugris  and  bright  shoulder -chains, 
stop  to  chat  with  sepoys  of  a  Bombay  infantry 
regiment  or  tall  Sikhs  of  the  Asiatic  Artillery. 
Neat,  glazed-hatted  Parsis,  long-haired  Coreans, 
trousered  Chinese  women,  and  wild,  unkempt  Pun- 
jaubi  mule-drivers  go  by.  German  man -o'- war's 
men,  with  flat  caps  and  short  jackets  covered  with 
gilt  or  silver  buttons,  turn  to  look  back  at  a  couple 
of  small  but  sturdy  Japanese  bluejackets.  Pig-tailed 
Chinese  coolies  push  their  way  roughly  along  the 
side-walk,  earning  a  well-deserved  cut  from  the 
swagger-cane  of  a  soldier  against  whose  red  coat 
they  have  rubbed  their  loads.  Even  the  weird 
figure  of  a  half-naked  Hindu  fakir,  his  emaciated 


THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

body  coated  with  white  ashes,  the  trident  of  Vishnu 
marked  in  scarlet  on  his  ghastly  forehead,  carrying 
his  begging-bowl  and  long-handled  tongs,  is  seen. 
Europeans,  in  white  linen  coats  and  trousers  or 
smartly-cut  flannel  suits,  rush  across  the  road  and 
plunge  hurriedly  into  offices.  These  are  probably 
brokers,  busily  engaged  in  floating  some  of  the 
numerous  companies  that  spring  up  daily  in  Hong 
Kong  like  mushrooms.  Globe-trotters,  in  weird 
pith  hats,  pause  before  the  windows  of  curio-shops 
which  display  the  artistic  efforts  of  Japan  or  Can- 
ton. The  street  is  crowded  with  rickshas  bearing 
ladies,  soldiers,  civilians,  or  fat  Chinamen  in  bowler 
hats  and  long,  blue  silk  coats.  Carriages  are  sel- 
dom seen,  for  horses  are  of  little  use  in  the  colony, 
owing  to  its  hilly  character.  Queen's  Road  is  almost 
the  only  thoroughfare  where  they  could  be  employed. 
Tall  Sikh  and  Mussulman  policemen  in  blue  or  red 
pugris  direct  the  traffic  or  salute  a  white-helmeted 
European  inspector  as  he  passes. 

Society  in  Hong  Kong  is  less  official  than  in 
India,  where  almost  every  male  is  to  be  found  in 
either  the  Army  or  the  Civil  Service  List.  The 
Governor  and  the  General  are,  of  course,  the 
leaders,  and  in  a  small  way  represent  Royalty  in  the 
colony.  The  merchant  class  is  supreme,  and  their 
wives  rule  society ;  naval  and  military  people  being 
regarded  as  mere  birds  of  passage  in  a  city  where 
Europeans  practically  settle  for  life  and  England 
seems  a  very  far-off  country  indeed.  Altogether 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    191 

life  in  Hong  Kong  is  of  a  more  provincially  English 
character  than  it  is  in  India.  The  warm-hearted 
hospitality  of  the  Anglo- Indian  has  but  a  faint  echo 
in  this  very  British  colony.  One  is  not  brought  into 
such  daily  contact  with  friends  and  acquaintances. 
In  every  station,  large  and  small,  throughout  the 
length  and  breadth  of  Hindustan  there  is  always  a 
club  which  acts  as  the  rallying-place  of  European 
society.  Ladies  as  well  as  men  assemble  there  in 
the  afternoons  when  the  sun  is  setting,  and  polo, 
tennis,  and  cricket  are  over  for  the  day.  The 
fair  inhabitants  of  the  station  sit  on  the  lawn, 
dispense  tea  to  their  friends,  talk  scandal  or  flirt ; 
while  their  husbands  play  whist,  bridge,  and  bil- 
liards, or  gather  in  jovial  groups  round  the  bar  and 
discuss  the  events  of  the  day. 

But  in  Hong  Kong,  despite  the  large  European 
population,  there  is  no  similar  institution  or  gather- 
ing-place. The  clubs  are  sternly  reserved  for  men. 
Save  at  an  occasional  race  meeting  or  gymkhana, 
one  never  sees  all  the  white  inhabitants  assembled 
together.  In  the  summer  the  climate  is  far  too  hot 
for  indoor  social  functions.  Even  tennis  parties  are 
too  exhausting.  So  hospitable  hostesses  substitute 
for  their  "At  Homes"  weekly  mixed  bathing 
parties ;  and  in  the  comparative  cool  of  the  after- 
noons gay  groups  gather  on  the  piers  near  the 
club  and  embark  on  the  trim  steam  launches  that 
lie  in  shoals  alongside.  Then  out  they  go  to  some 
sandy  bay  along  the  coast,  where  mat-sheds  have 


192  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

been  erected  to  serve  as  bathing-boxes  for  the 
ladies,  who  go  ashore  and  attire  themselves  for 
the  water.  The  gentlemen  of  the  party  don  their 
swimming  costume  in  the  cabin  of  the  launch,  and, 
plunging  overboard,  make  their  way  to  the  beach 
to  join  their  fair  companions.  When  tired  of 
bathing,  the  ladies  retire  to  the  mat-sheds,  the  men 
to  the  launch.  Then,  dressed  again  and  reunited, 
all  steam  back  to  Hong  Kong,  refreshing  them- 
selves with  tea  and  drinks  on  the  way.  This  is 
the  favourite  form  of  amusement  in  Hong  Kong 
society  during  the  summer. 

In  the  cold  weather  dances  at  Government  House, 
Headquarter  House  (the  General's  residence),  and 
in  the  City  Hall  are  frequent ;  and  theatrical  com- 
panies from  England  and  Australia  occupy  the 
theatre.  Picnics,  walking  or  by  launch,  to  the 
many  charming  spots  to  be  found  on  the  island 
or  the  mainland  are  given.  Polo,  racing,  cricket, 
tennis,  and  golf  are  in  full  swing ;  and,  as  the 
climate  during  winter  is  cold  and  bracing,  life  is 
very  pleasant  in  the  colony  then. 

To  the  newly  arrived  naval  or  military  officer 
society  in  Hong  Kong  is  full  of  pitfalls  and  sur- 
prises. The  English  merchant  or  lawyer  over  seas 
is  usually  a  very  good  fellow,  though  occasionally 
puffed  up  by  the  thought  of  his  bloated  money- 
bags ;  but  his  wife  is  often  a  sad  example  of  British 
snobbery,  the  spirit  of  which  has  entered  into  her 
soul  in  the  small  country  town  or  London  suburb 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    193 

from  which  she  came.  Society  in  the  boarding- 
houses  of  West  Kensington  is  a  bad  preparation 
for  the  role  of  grande  dame  in  the  hospitable  East. 
And  so  the  naval  or  military  officer,  accustomed 
to  broader  lines  of  social  demarcation  in  England, 
is  puzzled  and  amused  at  the  minute  shades  of 
difference  in  Hong  Kong  society.  He  fails  to  see 
why  Mrs.  A.,  whose  spouse  exports  tea,  is  to  be 
considered  quite  of  the  haut  ton  of  the  colony ; 
while  Mrs.  B.,  whose  husband  imports  cigars,  and 
who  is  by  birth  and  breeding  a  better  man  than 
A.,  is  not  to  be  called  on. 

"  Big  fleas  have  little  fleas  upon  their  backs  to  bite  'em, 
And  little  fleas  have  lesser  fleas,  and  so,  ad  infinitum." 

And  Hong  Kong  looks  down  on  Kowloon  with  all 
the  well-bred  contempt  of  Belgravia  for  Brixton. 
And  even  in  the  despised  suburb  on  the  mainland 
these  social  differences  are  not  wanting.  The  wives 
of  the  superior  dock  employees  are  the  leaders  of 
Kowloon  society ;  and  the  better  half  of  a  ship 
captain  or  marine  engineer  is  only  admitted  on 
sufferance  to  their  exclusive  circle.  When  the 
first  Indian  troops  to  strengthen  the  garrison  of 
Hong  Kong  in  1900  arrived,  they  were  quartered 
in  Kowloon ;  where  the  presence  of  a  number  of 
strange  young  officers,  who  dashed  about  their 
quiet  suburb  on  fiery  Arabs  and  completely  eclipsed 
the  local  dandies,  caused  a  flutter  in  the  hearts  of 
anxious  mothers  and  indignant  husbands.  The 


194          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

fires  of  civilian  prejudice  against  the  military 
burned  fiercely ;  and  I  verily  believe  that  many 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Kowloon  would  have  pre- 
ferred an  invasion  of  ferocious  Chinese. 


THE  KOWLOON   HINTERLAND. 

The  island  of  Hong  Kong  was  ceded  to  England 
in  1841.  Later  on  a  strip  of  the  adjacent  mainland, 
from  two  to  three  miles  deep,  running  back  to  a 
line  of  steep  hills  from  1,300  to  2,000  feet  high, 
was  added.  Then  for  many  years  the  colony 
rested  content  under  the  frowning  shadow  of  these 
dangerous  neighbours ;  until  it  dawned  at  last  upon 
our  statesmen  that  the  Power  who  possessed  this 
range  of  hills  had  Hong  Kong  at  its  mercy.  For 
heavy  guns  planted  on  their  summits  could  lay  the 
city  of  Victoria  in  ruins  at  the  easy  range  of  two 
or  three  miles ;  and  no  answering  fire  from  the 
island  forts  so  far  below  them  could  save  it.  So 
in  1898,  by  a  master-stroke  of  diplomacy,  China 
was  induced  to  lease  to  England  the  Kowloon 
Peninsula,  about  200  miles  square ;  and  our  frontier 
was  removed  farther  back  to  the  safer  distance  of 
about  twenty  miles  from  Hong  Kong. 

The  peninsula  is  an  irregularly  shaped  tongue  of 
land  with  rugged  and  indented  coast-line  jutting 
out  from  the  province  of  Kwang-tung.  It  is  of 
little  value  except  to  safeguard  the  possession 
of  Hong  Kong.  It  consists  of  range  after  range 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    195 

of  rugged,  barren  hills,  grass-clad,  with  here  and 
there  tangled  vegetation  but  with  scarcely  a  tree 
upon  them,  separated  by  narrow  valleys  thinly 
occupied  by  Chinese.  It  could  only  support  a 
small  population ;  for  arable  land  is  scarce,  and 
the  few  inhabitants  are  forced  to  add  to  their  scanty 
crops  by  terracing  small  fields  on  the  steep  sides 
of  the  hills.  Villages  are  few  and  far  between. 
Those  that  exist  are  well  and  substantially  built ; 
for,  as  in  Hong  Kong,  granite  is  everywhere 
present  on  the  mainland,  the  soil  being  composed 
of  disintegrated  granite.  Cattle-breeding  and  even 
sheep-raising  seem  difficult ;  for  the  rank  grass  of 
the  hills  will  scarcely  support  animal  life.  Experi- 
ments made  on  the  islands  near  Hong  Kong,  which 
are  of  similar  nature  to  the  mainland,  seem  to  bear 
this  out. 

Winding  inlets  and  long,  narrow  bays  run  far  into 
the  land  on  both  sides  and  considerably  diminish 
the  space  at  the  disposal  of  the  cultivator.  Occa- 
sionally narrow  creeks  are  dammed  by  the  villagers, 
and  the  ground  is  roughly  reclaimed.  The  supply 
of  fresh  water  is  limited  to  the  rainfall  and  the 
small  streams  that  run  down  the  hillsides.  The 
presence  of  mineral  wealth  is  unsuspected  and  un- 
likely. Altogether  the  Hinterland  is  poor  and 
unproductive.  Efforts  are  being  made  to  develop 
its  scanty  resources ;  and  if  cattle,  wheat,  and  vege- 
tables could  be  raised,  a  ready  market  would  be 
found  for  them  in  Hong  Kong. 


196  THE    LAND   OF   THE   BOXERS 

The  present  frontier  line  is  exceedingly  short — 
about  ten  miles  if  I  remember  aright — as  at  the 
boundary  the  sea  runs  far  into  the  land  on  each 
side  of  the  peninsula  in  two  bays — Deep  Bay  on 
the  west,  Mirs  Bay  on  the  east.  The  latter  is  being 
used  as  the  winter  training-ground  of  the  ships  of 
our  China  squadron.  The  former  is  very  shallow, 
being  almost  dry  at  low  tide,  and  earns  its  name 
from  the  depth  of  its  penetration  into  the  land. 

One  strongly  defined  portion  of  the  boundary  is 
the  shallow,  tidal  Samchun  River  which  runs  into 
Deep  Bay.  Across  it  the  Chinese  territory  begins 
in  a  fertile  and  cultivated  valley  surrounding  an 
important  and  comparatively  wealthy  market-town, 
Samchun.  Beyond  that  again  rises  another  line 
of  rugged  hills.  I  have  never  penetrated  into  the 
interior  here  farther  than  Samchun,  so  cannot  speak 
with  accuracy  of  what  the  country  is  like  at  the 
other  side  of  these  hills ;  but  I  have  been  told  that 
it  is  flat  and  fertile  nearly  all  the  way  on  to  Canton. 
The  English  firm  in  Hong  Kong  who  projected 
the  railway  to  Canton  employed  a  Royal  Engineer 
officer  to  survey  the  route  for  the  proposed  line. 
He  told  me,  as  well  as  I  can  remember,  that  he 
had  estimated  the  cost  from  Kowloon  to  about  ten 
miles  north  of  Samchun  at  about  ^"27,000  a  mile, 
and  from  there  on  to  Canton  at  ,£7,000  a  mile. 
That  seems  to  show  that  the  country  beyond 
these  hills  is  flat  and  easy.  The  cutting,  tunnel- 
ling, and  embanking  required  for  the  passage  of 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    197 

a  railway  line  through  the  continuous  hills  of  the 
Kowloon  Hinterland  would  be  a  very  laborious 
undertaking.  There  is  no  long  level  stretch  from 
Hong  Kong  harbour  to  the  frontier ;  and  the  hills 
are  mainly  granite. 

Since  the  Hinterland  has  come  into  their  posses- 
sion the  colonial  authorities  have  made  an  excellent 
road  from  Kowloon  into  their  new  territory.  It  is 
carried  up  the  steep  hills  and  down  again  to  the 
valleys  in  easy  gradients.  It  is  of  more  importance 
for  military  than  for  commercial  purposes ;  as  the 
peninsula  produces  so  little  and  wheeled  transport 
is  unknown. 

The  cession  of  the  Hinterland  in  1898  was  very 
strongly  resented  by  its  few  inhabitants.  Owing  to 
their  poverty  and  inaccessibility,  they  were  probably 
seldom  plagued  with  visits  from  Chinese  officials ; 
and  they  objected  to  their  sudden  transfer  to  the 
care  of  the  more  energetic  "  foreign  devils."  So 
when  the  Governor  of  Hong  Kong  arranged  a 
dramatic  scene  to  take  place  at  the  hoisting  of  the 
British  flag  on  the  frontier,  and  invitations  were 
freely  issued  to  the  officials  and  their  wives  and  the 
society  in  general  of  the  island  to  be  present  on 
this  historic  occasion,  the  evil-minded  inhabitants 
prepared  a  surprise  for  them.  The  police  and  the 
guard  of  honour  went  out  on  the  previous  day  to 
encamp  on  the  ground  on  which  the  ceremony  was 
to  take  place.  To  their  consternation  they  found 
that  the  new  subjects  of  the  British  Empire  had 


ig8          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

dug  a  trench  on  the  side  of  a  hill  close  by,  not 
800  yards  from  the  spot  on  which  the  flagstaff  was 
to  be  erected,  and  had  occupied  it  in  force,  armed 
with  jingals,  matchlocks,  Brown  Besses,  and  old 
rifles — antique  weapons  certainly,  but  good  enough 
to  kill  all  the  ladies  and  officials  to  be  present  next 
day.  Information  was  immediately  sent  back  to 
Hong  Kong;  and  quite  a  little  campaign  was  in- 
augurated. Companies  of  the  Royal  Welch  Fusi- 
liers, the  Hong  Kong  Regiment,  and  the  Hong 
Kong  and  Singapore  Battalion  Royal  Artillery, 
with  detachments  of  bluejackets,  chased  their  new 
fellow-subjects  over  the  hills,  exchanged  shots  with 
them,  and  captured  enough  ancient  weapons  to 
stock  an  armoury.  Lieutenant  Barrett,  Hong 
Kong  Regiment,  while  bathing  in  a  pond  in  a 
Chinese  village,  discovered  a  number  of  old  smooth- 
bore cannons,  which  had  been  hurriedly  thrown  in 
there.  Little  resistance  was  made ;  but  the  picnic 
arrangements  for  the  dramatic  hoisting  of  the  flag 
did  not  come  off. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  peninsula  were  speedily 
reconciled  to  British  rule  and  have  since  given  no 
further  trouble.  A  few  European  and  Indian  police 
constables,  armed  with  carbines  and  revolvers,  are 
stationed  in  it  and  patrol  the  country  in  pairs, 
frequently  armed  with  no  more  lethal  weapon  than 
an  umbrella. 

The  possession  of  the  Hinterland  has  strengthened 
enormously  the  defence  of  Hong  Kong  from  the 


199 

landward  side.  Three  passes,  about  1,500  feet 
high,  cross  the  last  range  of  hills  above  Kowloon  ; 
and  these  can  be  easily  guarded.  The  situation  of 
a  hostile  army  which  had  landed  on  the  coast  some 
distance  away  and  endeavoured  to  march  through 
the  difficult  and  mountainous  country  of  the  main- 
land, would  be  hopeless  in  the  presence  of  a  strong 
defending  force.  Entangled  in  the  narrow  valleys, 
forced  to  cross  a  series  of  roadless  passes  over 
which  even  field-guns  must  be  carried  bodily,  fired 
at  incessantly  from  the  never-ending  hilltops,  it 
would  be  unable  to  proceed  far.  A  couple  of  regi- 
ments of  Gurkhas  or  Pathans  would  be  invaluable 
in  such  a  country.  Moving  rapidly  from  hill  to 
hill  they  could  decimate  the  invaders  almost  with 
impunity  to  themselves. 

The  garrison  of  Hong  Kong  previous  to  1900 
consisted  of  a  few  batteries  R.A.  to  man  the  forts, 
some  companies  of  the  Asiatic  Artillery  or  Hong 
Kong  and  Singapore  Battalion  Royal  Artillery  (a 
corps  of  Sikhs  and  Punjaubis  raised  in  India  for 
the  defence  of  these  two  coast  ports),  one  British 
infantry  regiment,  the  Hong  Kong  Regiment  (ten 
companies  strong),  and  the  Hong  Kong  Volunteers, 
Europeans,  and  Portuguese  half-castes.  The  Asiatic 
Artillery  were  armed  with  muzzle-loading  mountain 
guns.  Such  a  force  was  absurdly  small  for  such  a 
large  and  important  place.  General  Sir  William 
Gascoigne,  K.C.M.G.,  was  forced  to  still  further  de- 
nude it  of  troops  in  order  to  send  men  hurriedly 


200          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

to  North  China  to  defend  Tientsin.  He  was  left 
with  his  garrison  companies  of  Royal  Artillery,  half 
of  the  Royal  Welch  Fusiliers  and  Asiatic  Artillery, 
and  four-fifths  of  the  Hong  Kong  Regiment.  The 
situation  would  have  been  one  of  extreme  danger 
had  a  rising  occurred  in  Canton  and  the  southern 
provinces ;  and  two  regiments  of  General  Gaselee's 
original  force  were  stopped  on  their  way  to  the 
North.  The  3rd  Madras  Light  Infantry,  under 
Lieutenant  -  Colonel  Teversham,  was  composed  of 
men  of  that  now  unwarlike  presidency.  But  the 
22nd  Bombay  Infantry,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  -  Colonel  R.  Baillie,  was  formed  from 
the  fighting  races  of  Rajputana  and  Central  India 
and  won  many  encomiums  for  their  smartness  in 
manoeuvres  over  the  steep  hills  and  their  satisfac- 
tory work  altogether. 

A  story  is  told  of  a  War  Office  official  who, 
ignorant  of  the  mountainous  character  of  Hong 
Kong,  wished  to  add  a  regiment  of  British  cavalry 
to  its  garrison.  The  general  in  command  at  the 
time,  being  possessed  of  a  keen  sense  of  humour, 
gravely  requested  that  the  men  should  be  mounted 
on  goats,  pointing  out  that  no  other  animal  would 
prove  useful  on  the  Hong  Kong  hills.  But  even  in 
the  mountainous  country  of  the  mainland  mounted 
infantry  would  be  of  great  use  to  enable  command- 
ing points  to  be  speedily  gained.  When  stationed 
in  Kowloon  I  organised  mounted  infantry  on  mules 
captured  in  North  China — splendid  animals  most  of 


OUR  STRONGHOLD  IN  THE  FAR  EAST    201 

them,  one  standing  fifteen  hands  high.  Even  in 
that  broken  and  rugged  country  I  found  that  the 
men  could  move  swiftly  around  the  bases  of  the 
hills,  across  the  narrow  valleys,  and  up  the  easier 
slopes  at  a  speed  that  defied  all  pursuit  from  their 
comrades  on  foot.  In  an  advance  overland  to 
Canton,  mounted  infantry  would  be  invaluable  when 
the  flat  and  cultivated  country  past  Samchun  was 
reached ;  for  cavalry  would  be  useless  in  such  closely 
intersected  ground. 


CHAPTER    IX 
ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA 

A  SHALLOW,  muddy  river  running  between 
steep  banks.  On  the  grassy  slopes  of  a 
conical  hill  the  white  tents  of  a  camp.  Before  the 
quarter-guard  stands  a  Bombay  Infantry  sentry  in 
khaki  uniform  and  pugri,  the  butt  of  his  Lee- 
Metford  rifle  resting  on  the  ground,  his  eyes 
turned  across  the  river  to  where  the  paddy-fields  of 
Southern  China  stretch  away  to  a  blue  range  of 
distant  hills.  Figures  in  khaki  or  white  undress 
move  about  the  encampment  or  gather  round  the 
mud  cooking-places,  where  their  frugal  meal  of 
chupatties  and  curry  is  being  prepared.  A  smart, 
well-set-up  British  officer  passes  down  through  the^ 
lines  of  tents  and  lounging  sepoys  spring  swiftly  to 
attention  as  he  goes  by.  On  the  hilltop  above  a 
signaller  waves  his  flag  rapidly;  and  down  below  in 
the  camp  a  Madrassi  havildar  spells  out  his  message 
to  a  man  beside  him,  who  writes  it  down  in  a  note- 
book. Coolies  loaded  with  supplies  trudge  wearily 
up  the  steep  path.  Before  the  tents  four  wicked- 
looking  little  mountain  guns  turn  their  ugly  muzzles 
longingly  towards  a  walled  town  two  thousand  yards 

202 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    203 

away  across  the  stream,  where  spots  of  red  and 
blue  resolve  themselves  through  a  field-glass  into 
Chinese  soldiers.  All  around  on  this  side  of  the 
river  the  country  lies  in  never-ending  hills  and 
narrow  valleys,  with  banked  paddy-fields  in  chess- 
board pattern.  And  on  these  hills  small  horseshoe- 
shaped  masonry  tombs  or  glazed,  brown  earthen- 
ware pots  containing  the  bones  of  deceased 
Chinamen  fleck  the  grassy  slopes.  Across  the 
stream  the  cultivation  is  interspersed  with  low,  tree- 
crowned  eminences  or  dotted  with  villages.  There 
on  the  boundary  line,  between  China  and  the 
English  territory  of  the  Kowloon  Hinterland,  a 
small  column  guards  our  possessions  against  rebel 
and  Imperial  soldier,  both  possible  enemies  and 
restrained  from  violating  British  soil  by  the  bayonets 
of  the  sepoys  from  our  distant  Eastern  Empire. 
Twenty  miles  away  Hong  Kong  lies  ringed  in  by 
sapphire  sea.  From  the  land  it  has  no  danger  to 
dread  while  a  man  of  this  small  but  resolute  force 
guarding  its  frontier  remains  alive. 

The  outburst  of  fanaticism  in  North  China,  the 
attacks  on  the  foreign  settlements  in  Tientsin  and 
Pekin,  the  treachery  of  the  Court,  had  their  echo 
in  the  far-off  southern  provinces.  Canton,  turbulent 
and  hostile,  has  ever  been  a  plague-spot.  Before 
now  English  and  French  troops  have  had  to 
chasten  its  pride  and  teach  its  people  that  the  outer 
barbarian  claims  a  right  to  exist  even  on  the  sacred 
soil  of  China.  In  the  troublous  summer  of  1900 


204          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

10,000  Black  Flags,  the  unruly  banditti  who  long 
waged  a  harassing  war  against  the  French  in 
Tonkin,  were  encamped  near  this  populous  city. 
Fears  were  rife  in  Hong  Kong  that,  fired  by  ex- 
aggerated accounts  of  successes  against  the  hated 
foreigners  in  the  North  and  swelled  by  the  fanatical 
population  of  the  provinces  of  the  two  Kwangs, 
they  might  swarm  down  to  the  coast  and  attack 
our  possessions  on  the  mainland,  or  even  endeavour 
to  assail  the  island  itself.  Li  Hung  Chang,  the 
Viceroy  of  Canton,  had  sounded  a  note  of  warning. 
Purporting  to  seek  the  better  arming  of  his  soldiery 
to  enable  him  to  cope  with  popular  discontent,  he 
induced  the  colonial  authorities  to  allow  him  to 
import  40,000  new  magazine  rifles  through  Hong 
Kong;  but  there  was  no  security  that  these  weapons 
might  not  be  turned  against  ourselves.  As  it  was 
well  known  that  the  Imperial  troops  in  the  North 
had  made  common  cause  with  the  Boxers,  the 
wisdom  of  permitting  this  free  passage  of  modern 
arms  may  be  questioned.  Rumours  of  a  rising 
among  the  Chinese  in  Victoria  itself,  of  threatened 
invasion  from  the  mainland,  were  rife ;  and  the  in- 
habitants of  our  colony  in  the  Far  East  were  badly 
scared.  The  first  Indian  brigade  under  General 
Gaselee  passed  up  to  the  more  certain  danger  in 
the  North  ;  but  representations  made  to  the  home 
authorities  caused  the  stopping  of  his  two  line-of- 
communication  regiments,  the  $rd  Madras  Light 
Infantry  and  22nd  Bombay  Infantry,  to  strengthen 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    205 

the  denuded  garrison  of  Hong  Kong.  This  and 
the  subsequent  detention  of  his  2nd  Brigade  to 
safeguard  Shanghai  left  his  command  in  the  Allied 
Armies  on  the  march  to  Pekin  numerically  weak 
and  forced  him  into  a  subordinate  position  in  the 
councils  of  the  Generals.  Hong  Kong  was  by  no 
means  in  such  imminent  peril ;  and  the  troops  thus 
diverted  would  have  made  his  force  second  only  to 
the  Japanese  in  strength,  and  enabled  him  to  assert 
his  authority  more  emphatically  among  the  Allies. 

Pekin  fell  on  August  i4th,  1900.  But  long  after 
that  date  this  was  not  credited  in  Canton ;  and 
the  wildest  rumours  were  rife  as  to  the  splendid 
successes  of  the  Chinese,  who  were  represented  as 
everywhere  victorious.  This  large  southern  city 
is  situated  well  under  a  hundred  miles  from  Hong 
Kong,  either  by  river  or  by  land.  It  has  constant 
intercourse  with  our  colony ;  and  large,  flat-bottomed 
steamers  with  passengers  and  cargo  pass  between 
the  two  places  every  day.  Yet  it  was  confidently 
stated  in  the  vernacular  newspapers,  and  every- 
where believed,  that  two  regiments  from  India 
arriving  in  Hong  Kong  Harbour  had  heard  such 
appalling  tales  of  the  prowess  of  the  Chinese  braves 
that  the  terrified  soldiers  had  jumped  overboard 
from  the  transports  and  drowned  themselves  to  a 
man.  They  had  preferred  an  easy  death  to  the 
awful  tortures  that  they  knew  awaited  them  at 
the  hands  of  the  invincible  Chinese.  Long  after 
the  Court  had  fled  in  haste  from  Pekin  and  the 


206          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

capital  had  been  in  the  hands  of  the  Allies  for 
months,  their  columns  pushing  out  everywhere  into 
the  interior,  it  was  asserted  that  all  this  apparent 
success  was  but  a  deep-laid  plan  of  the  glorious 
Empress -Dowager.  She  had  thus  enticed  them 
into  the  heart  of  the  land  in  order  to  cut  them  off 
from  the  sea.  She  now  held  them  in  the  hollow 
of  her  hand.  The  luckless  foreigners  had  abjectly 
appealed  for  mercy.  Her  tender  heart  had  relented, 
and  she  had  graciously  promised  to  spare  them  in 
return  for  the  restoration  of  all  the  territory  hitherto 
wrested  from  China.  Tientsin,  Port  Arthur,  Kiao- 
Chau,  Shanghai,  Tonkin,  even  Hong  Kong,  were 
being  hastily  surrendered.  And  such  preposterous 
tales  were  readily  believed. 

But  another  confusing  element  was  introduced 
into  the  already  sufficiently  complicated  situation. 
Canton  and  the  South  contains,  besides  the  anti- 
foreign  party,  a  number  of  reformers  who  realise 
that  China  must  stand  in  line  with  modern  civilisa- 
tion. Only  thus  will  she  become  strong  enough  to 
resist  the  perpetual  foreign  aggression  which  de- 
prives her  of  her  best  ports  and  slices  off  her  most 
valuable  seaboard  territory.  The  energetic  inhabi- 
tants of  Canton  freely  emigrate  to  Hong  Kong, 
Singapore,  Penang,  Australia,  and  America.  There 
they  learn  to  take  a  wider  view  of  things  than  is 
possible  in  their  own  conservative  country.  When 
they  return  they  spread  their  ideas,  and  are  the 
nucleus  of  the  already  fairly  numerous  party  of 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    207 

reform,  who  justly  blame  the  misfortunes  of  China 
on  the  effete  and  narrow-minded  Government  in 
Pekin  and  work  to  secure  the  downfall  of  the 
present  Manchu  dynasty.  In  the  southern  provinces 
they  have  their  following ;  and  rumours  of  a  great 
uprising  there  against  the  corrupt  officialdom,  and 
even  the  throne  itself,  were  rife  in  the  autumn  of 
1900.  The  much-talked-of  but  little-known  Triad 
Society — who  claimed  to  advocate  reform,  but  who 
were  regarded  with  suspicion,  their  tenets  forbidden, 
and  their  followers  imprisoned  in  Hong  Kong — 
started  a  rebellion  in  the  Kwang-tung  province. 
They  were  supposed  to  be  led,  or  at  least  abetted, 
by  Sun  Yat  Sen,  an  enlightened  reformer.  As  the 
revolt  began  close  to  the  Kowloon  frontier,  fears 
were  expressed  lest,  despite  their  advertised  views, 
the  rebels  should  prove  unfriendly  to  foreigners  and 
invade  our  territory.  Little  was  known  of  the 
progress  of  the  movement  The  Chinese  Imperial 
Government,  through  the  Viceroy  of  Canton,  sent 
Admiral  Ho  with  4,000  troops  to  Samchun  to 
suppress  the  rising.  The  rebels,  hearing  of  his 
coming,  moved  farther  inland.  The  soldiers,  having 
no  great  stomach  for  bloodshed,  generously  forebore 
to  follow,  and  settled  themselves  comfortably  in  and 
around  the  town.  Lest  either  party  should  be 
tempted  to  infringe  the  neutrality  of  our  territory, 
the  Hong  Kong  newspapers  urged  the  Governor 
to  take  immediate  measures  to  safeguard  our 
frontier.  After  some  delay  a  small,  compact  column 


208          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

was  despatched  to  the  boundary  under  the  command 
of  Major  E.  A.  Kettlewell,  an  officer  of  marked 
ability  and  energy,  who  had  seen  much  service  in 
Burma  and  in  the  Tirah,  and  who  had  had  long 
and  intimate  connection  with  the  Imperial  Service 
troops  in  India.  The  composition  of  the  force, 
known  as  the  Frontier  Field  Force,  was  as  under  : — 

Commanding  Officer, 
Major  E.  A.  Kettlewell,  22nd  Bombay  Infantry. 

Staff  Officer. 
Lieutenant  Casserly,  22nd  Bombay  Infantry. 

Troops. 

Three  Companies,  22nd  Bombay  Infantry,  under  Captain 
Hatherell  and  Lieutenants  Melville  and  Burke. 

Four  mountain  guns  and  50  men,  Hong  Kong  and  Singa- 
pore Battalion  Royal  Artillery,  under  Lieutenants 
Saunders  and  Ogilvie. 

Detachment  Royal  Engineers  (British  and  Chinese  sappers), 
under  Lieutenant  Rundle,  R.E. 

Maxim  Gun  Detachment,  22nd  Bombay  Infantry,  under 
Jemadar  Lalla  Rawat. 

Signallers,  3rd  Madras  Light  Infantry,  under  Captain 
Sharpe. 

Section  of  Indian  Field  Hospital,  under  Captain  Wool- 
ley,  I.  M.S. 

With  the  mobility  of  Indian  troops  the  column 
embarked  within  a  few  hours  after  the  receipt  of 
orders  on  a  flotilla  of  steam  launches,  which  were 
to  convey  us  along  the  coast  to  Deep  Bay,  and 
thence  up  the  Samchun  River  to  the  threatened 
point  on  the  frontier.  Stores,  tents,  and  a  few 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA   209 

mules  to  carry  the  Maxim  and  ammunition,  as  well 
as  to  supplement  coolie  transport,  were  towed  in 
junks. 

Our  tiny  vessels  loaded  down  with  their  living 
freight,  the  sepoys  excited  at  the  prospect  of  a  fight, 
we  steam  away  from  Kowloon  and  out  through  the 
crowded  harbour.  We  pass  a  number  of  torpedo- 
boat  destroyers  and  a  small  fleet  of  obsolete  gun- 
boats rusting  in  inglorious  ease.  To  our  right, 
with  its  huge  cylindrical  oil-tanks  standing  up  like 
giant  drums  and  its  docks  containing  an  American 
man-o'-war,  lies  the  crowded  Chinese  quarter  of 
Yaumati.  Above  it  towers  the  long  chain  of  hills, 
their  dark  sides  marked  with  the  white  streak  of 
the  new  road  that  crosses  their  summit  into  the 
Hinterland.  On  the  left  is  Hong  Kong,  the  Peak 
with  the  windows  of  its  houses  flashing  in  the 
sun,  the  city  at  its  feet  in  shadow.  We  pass  the 
long,  straggling  Stonecutter's  Island,  with  the  solid 
granite  walls  of  its  abandoned  prison,  the  tree-clad 
hills  and  the  sharp  outlines  of  forts.  In  among 
an  archipelago  of  islands,  large  and  small,  we  steam  ; 
and  ahead  of  us  lies  the  narrow  channel  of  the 
Cap-sui-moon  Pass  between  Lantau  and  the  lesser 
islet  of  Mah  Wan.  On  the  latter  are  the  buildings 
of  the  Customs  station — the  Imperial  Maritime 
Customs  of  China.  High  hills  on  islands  and 
mainland  tower  above  us  on  every  side.  The  lofty 
peak  of  Tai-mo-shan  stands  up  in  the  brilliant  sun- 
light. The  coast  is  grim  with  rugged  cliffs  or  gay 


210          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

with  the  grassy  slopes  of  hills  running  down  to 
the  white  fringe  of  beach.  Bluff  headlands,  black, 
glistening  rocks  on  which  the  foam-flecked  waves 
break  incessantly,  dark  caverns,  and  tiny  bays  line 
the  shore.  A  lumbering  junk,  with  high,  square 
stern  and  rounded  bows — on  which  are  painted 
large  eyes,  that  the  ship  may  see  her  way — bears 
down  upon  us  with  huge  mat  sails  and  its  lolling 
crew  gazing  over  the  side  in  wonderment  at  the 
fierce,  dark  soldiers.  A  small  sampan  dances  over 
the  waves,  two  muscular  women  pushing  at  the 
long  oars  and  the  inevitable  children  seated  on  its 
narrow  deck. 

Along  the  coast  we  steam,  gazing  at  its  inter- 
minable masses  of  green  hills,  until  it  suddenly 
recedes  into  a  wide  bay  surrounded  on  every  side 
by  high  land.  This  is  Deep  Bay,  an  expanse 
twenty-five  miles  in  extent  which,  though  now 
covered  by  the  sea,  becomes  at  low  tide  one  vast 
mud  flat,  with  a  small  stream  winding  through  the 
noisome  ooze.  Towards  the  land  on  the  right  we 
head.  Far  out  from  shore  lies  a  trim,  white  gun- 
boat. From  the  stern  floats  the  yellow  Imperial 
standard  of  China  with  its  sprawling  dragon ;  for 
the  vessel  belongs  to  the  Maritime  Customs 
Service.  On  the  decks  brass  machine-guns  glitter. 
A  European  in  white  clothing  watches  us  through 
binoculars  from  the  poop.  The  Chinese  crew  in 
blue  uniforms,  with  pigtails  coiled  up  under  their 
straw  hats,  are  spreading  an  awning. 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA   211 

At  length  we  reach  the  mouth  of  the  Samchun 
River,  a  small  tidal  stream,  which,  when  the  sea  is 
low,  is  scarcely  eighteen  inches  deep.  Up  between 
its  winding  banks  we  steam.  High  hills  rise  up 
on  each  side.  We  pray  that  neither  rebel  nor 
hostile  Imperial  soldier  is  waiting  here  to  stop  our 
coming ;  for  a  machine-gun  or  a  few  rifles  would 
play  havoc  with  our  men  crowded  together  on  the 
little  launches.  Up  the  river  we  go  in  single  file, 
playing  "follow  my  leader"  as  the  first  launch 
swings  sharply  round  the  frequent  curves.  By 
virtue  of  my  position  "on  the  Staff,"  I  am  aboard 
it  and  am  consequently  resentful  when  a  bump  and 
a  prolonged  scraping  under  the  keel  tell  us  that 
we  have  gone  aground.  The  next  launch  avoids 
the  shoal  and  passes  us,  its  occupants  flinging 
sarcastic  remarks  and  unkind  jibes  at  us  as  they 
go  by.  But  "pride  cometh  before  a  fall,"  and 
a  little  farther  on  their  Chinese  steersman  runs 
them  high  and  dry.  Then  the  others  leave  us 
behind  until  by  dint  of  poling  we  float  again  and 
follow  in  their  wake.  Round  a  bend  in  the  river 
we  swing ;  and  ahead  of  us  we  see  a  number  of 
weird  -  looking  Chinese  war -junks.  From  their 
masts  stream  huge  pennants  and  gaudy  flags  of 
many  colours ;  on  their  decks  stand  old  muzzle- 
loading,  smooth-bore  cannon.  Their  high,  square 
sterns  tower  above  the  banks.  The  motley-garbed 
crews  are  squatting  about,  engaged  with  chop-sticks 
and  bowls  of  rice.  The  sudden  appearance  of 


212  THE   LAND   OF  THE  BOXERS 

our  flotilla  crowded  with  armed  men  startles  them. 
They  drop  their  food  and  spring  up  to  stare  at 
us,  uncertain  whether  to  bolt  ashore  or  continue 
their  interrupted  meal.  Seeing  no  signs  of  hostility 
on  our  part,  they  grin  placatingly  and  shout  re- 
marks to  us,  the  tenor  of  which  it  is  perhaps  as 
well  that  we  do  not  understand.  These  are  Govern- 
ment war-junks  and,  like  the  Customs  steamer 
outside,  are  stationed  here  to  prevent  assistance 
reaching  the  rebels  from  the  sea ;  but  anyone  who 
had  successfully  forced  their  way  past  the  gunboat 
would  have  little  to  fear  from  these  ill  -  armed 
Noah's  Arks.  Close  by  stand  a  few  substantial 
buildings — a  Customs  station.  From  the  verandah 
of  a  bungalow  two  white  men  in  charge  of  it  watch 
us  as  we  go  by. 

As  evening  was  closing  in  we  reached  the  spot 
selected  for  our  first  camping-ground  and  disem- 
barked. On  our  side  of  the  river  a  few  hundred 
yards  of  level  ground  ran  back  to  the  steep,  bare 
slopes  of  a  straggling  hill  which  rose  to  a  conical 
peak  five  hundred  feet  above  our  heads.  All 
around  lay  similar  eminences,  their  grassy  sides 
devoid  of  trees.  Behind  us  the  Hinterland  stretched 
away  to  the  south  in  range  after  range  of  barren 
mountains  divided  by  narrow,  cultivated  valleys. 
Beyond  the  river  lay  a  plain  patched  with  paddy- 
fields  or  broken  by  an  occasional  low  hill.  In  it, 
little  more  than  a  mile  away,  stood  the  walled  town 
of  Samchun.  The  British  and  Indian  police  in 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    213 

the  new  territory  had  been  instructed  to  give 
us  intelligence  of  any  hostile  movements  in  the 
neighbourhood ;  and  from  them  we  learned  that  no 
immediate  danger  was  to  be  apprehended.  Never- 
theless all  precautionary  measures  to  guard  against 
a  possible  surprise  were  taken ;  for  Admiral  Ho's 
troops  still  lingered  in  Samchun,  and  considerable 
doubt  existed  as  to  their  attitude  towards  the  British. 
Piquets  having  been  posted  and  a  strong  guard 
placed  over  the  ammunition  and  supplies,  the  men 
cooked  their  evening  meal  and  bivouacked  for  the 
night.  But  sleep  was  almost  impossible.  The  heat 
was  intense.  We  had  evidently  intruded  upon  a 
favourite  haunt  of  the  mosquitoes  who  attacked  us 
with  malignant  persistence  until  dawn. 

The  following  day  was  employed  in  strengthening 
our  position,  reconnoitring  our  surroundings  and 
laying  out  our  camp.  Our  arrival  had  evidently 
taken  the  Chinese  army  across  the  river  completely 
by  surprise.  From  the  hill,  on  which  our  tents 
stood,  Samchun  was  plainly  visible  about  2,000 
yards  away ;  and  our  field-glasses  showed  a  great 
commotion  in  the  town.  Soldiers  poured  out  of  the 
gates  or  crowded  on  to  the  walls  and  gazed  in  con- 
sternation— apparent  even  at  that  distance — at  the 
British  force  that  had  so  suddenly  put  in  an  appear- 
ance on  the  scene.  They  were  evidently  extremely 
dubious  as  to  our  intentions ;  and  we  watched  the 
troops  falling  in  hurriedly  and  being  marshalled 
under  an  imposing  array  of  banners.  When  the 


214          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Hinterland  had  been  ceded  to  us,  Samchun  had  at 
first  been  included,  and  was  for  a  short  time  occupied 
by  us  ;  but  the  boundary  was  afterwards  fixed  at  the 
river  as  being  a  natural  frontier,  and  the  town  was 
restored  to  the  Chinese.  They  apparently  feared 
that  we  had  changed  our  minds  and  contemplated  ap- 
propriating it  again.  As  our  column  made  no  move — 
for  our  orders  had  been  not  to  enter  Chinese  territory 
or  take  any  hostile  action  unless  attacked — they 
soon  disappeared  into  the  town  again.  Later  on,  on 
a  hill  that  rose  close  to  the  river  on  their  side  of  the 
boundary-line,  a  regiment  appeared  and  observed  us 
narrowly  all  day,  endeavouring  to  keep  out  of  sight 
themselves  as  much  as  possible.  It  was  very  tan- 
talising to  see  the  materials  for  a  pretty  little  fight 
ready  to  hand  being  wasted,  and  we  longed  for  the 
smallest  hostile  act  on  their  part  to  give  us  an  excuse 
for  one.  But  none  came  ;  and  we  sighed  discon- 
tentedly at  the  loss  of  such  a  golden  opportunity. 
Although  the  Chinese  force  numbered  4,000,  armed 
with  guns,  Mausers  and  Winchesters,  and  our  column 
counted  barely  400  all  told,  we  felt  little  doubt  as 
to  the  result  of  a  fight  between  us. 

By  the  following  morning  Admiral  Ho  and  his 
mandarins  had  evidently  come  to  the  conclusion  that 
we  were  more  dangerous  neighbours  than  the  rebels ; 
so  he  proceeded  to  move  off  from  our  vicinity.  All 
that  day  and  the  next  we  watched  bodies  of  troops, 
clad  in  long  red  or  blue  coats,  with  enormous  straw 
hats  slung  like  shields  on  their  backs  or  covering 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA   215 

their  heads  like  giant  mushrooms,  marching  out 
of  the  town  and  stringing  out  into  single  file  along 
the  narrow  paths  between  the  paddy-fields  as  they 
moved  off  into  the  mountains  beyond  Samchun. 
Above  their  heads  waved  innumerable  banners — 
green,  red,  blue,  parti-coloured,  or  striped  in  many 
lines  horizontally  or  vertically.  By  the  following 
evening  all  had  disappeared,  with  the  exception 
of  about  400,  as  we  afterwards  ascertained,  left 
behind  to  garrison  the  town.  This  forlorn  hope, 
I  doubt  not,  were  none  too  well  pleased  at  remaining 
in  such  unpleasant  proximity  to  us. 

Our  arrival  at  the  frontier  was  undoubtedly 
responsible  for  the  retirement  of  Admiral  Ho's 
army.  For  he  had  been  for  some  time  comfortably 
settled  in  Samchun  without  evincing  the  least  anxiety 
to  follow  up  the  rebels,  who  were  reported  to  be 
laying  waste  the  country  farther  on,  pillaging  the 
villages,  torturing  the  officials,  and  levying  taxes  on 
the  inhabitants.  His  departure  removed  a  constant 
source  of  danger  ;  for  his  undisciplined  troops  might 
have  been  tempted  to  cross  the  boundary  into  our 
territory  and  harass  the  villagers  under  our  pro- 
tection. 

We  now  employed  ourselves  in  patrolling  the 
frontier,  exercising  the  troops  and  making  sketches 
to  supplement  the  very  inadequate  information  as 
to  the  surrounding  country  in  our  possession.  Al- 
though the  Hinterland  had  been  ceded  to  the  British 
two  years  before,  and  although  it  lies  in  such  close 


216          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

proximity  to  Hong  Kong,  no  accurate  survey  of  it 
had  ever  been  made.  The  only  map  which  could 
be  found  to  provide  the  expedition  with  was  one 
done  by  a  Jesuit  missionary  in  1840.  It  was  fairly 
correct  as  regards  outlines,  but  contained  absolutely 
no  details  except  a  number  of  names,  which  might 
refer  to  villages  or  to  features  of  the  ground.  For 
instance,  at  the  spot  on  the  map  where  our  camp 
stood,  we  read  the  word  "  Lo-u."  This,  before  we 
arrived  there,  we  concluded  referred  to  a  village. 
But  there  was  not  a  house  in  the  vicinity,  and  we 
found  that  it  was  the  name  of  the  hill  on  which  our 
tents  were  pitched.  Our  energetic  commander  em- 
ployed himself  in  surveying  and  filling  in  the  details 
of  the  surrounding  country,  marking  the  positions 
of  the  hamlets  and  paths — for  roads  there  were 
none — and  ascertaining  the  ranges  and  heights  of 
the  various  prominent  features  around  us. 

About  a  mile  away  down  the  river  lay  the  Chinese 
Customs  station  that  we  had  passed  on  our  way  up. 
I  strolled  there  one  afternoon  and  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  the  officers  in  charge.  They  were  both 
Britishers.  One  of  them,  Mr.  Percy  Affleck- Scott, 
told  me  that  our  arrival  had  been  a  great  relief  to 
them.  When  the  rebels  had  been  in  the  vicinity 
they  had  received  several  messages  from  the  leaders 
who  threatened  to  march  down  upon  their  station, 
burn  it,  and  cut  their  heads  off.  In  view  of  the 
repeated  declarations  of  the  Triads,  that  no  hos- 
tility is  felt  by  them  to  foreigners,  these  threats  are 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA   217 

significant.  As  they  had  little  reliance  on  the 
prowess  of  the  Chinese  soldiers  if  attacked  by  the 
rebels,  these  two  Britishers  had  been  considerably 
relieved  at  the  arrival  of  our  force,  in  whose  neigh- 
bourhood they  knew  that  they  would  be  safe. 

The  position  of  the  European  Custom  House 
officials  in  the  Outdoor  Branch,  stationed  as  they 
generally  are  in  out-of-the-way  places  in  Chinese 
territory  with  no  society  of  their  own  kind,  is 
scarcely  enviable.  Their  work,  which  consists  in 
levying  duty  on  imports  into  the  country,  frequently 
brings  them  into  unpleasant  contact  with  Chinese 
officials,  who  regard  the  existence  of  their  service 
with  intense  dislike,  as  it  robs  them  of  chances  of 
extortion.  Those  employed  in  the  Indoor  Branch 
are  generally  stationed  in  cities  like  Hong  Kong, 
Shanghai,  Pekin,  or  other  large  centres  where  life 
is  enjoyable. 

When  visiting  the  Samchun  Custom  House  on 
another  occasion,  at  a  later  period,  I  saw  a  number 
of  small,  two -pounder  rifled  breechloading  guns 
belonging  to  Admiral  Ho's  force  being  embarked 
on  a  war-junk.  I  examined  them  with  interest. 
They  were  mounted  on  small -wheeled  carriages 
and  bore  the  stamp  of  the  Chinese  arsenal  where 
they  had  been  made.  The  breech  ends  were 
square,  with  a  falling  block  worked  by  a  lever  at 
the  side.  They  were  well  finished ;  for  the  work 
turned  out  at  these  arsenals  by  native  workmen,  often 
under  European  supervision,  is  generally  very  good. 


218          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Early  one  morning,  a  few  days  after  Admiral  Ho's 
departure,  the  camp  was  roused  by  a  sudden  alarm. 
About  four  a.m.,  when  it  was  still  pitch  dark,  we 
were  awakened  by  the  sound  of  heavy  firing  in 
the  Chinese  territory.  The  continuous  rattle  of 
small  arms  and  the  deeper  booming  of  field-guns 
were  distinctly  audible.  We  rushed  out  of  our 
tents  and  the  troops  got  ready  to  fall  in.  The 
firing  seemed  to  come  from  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  Samchun ;  and  it  appeared  that  a 
desperate  fight  was  in  full  swing.  Our  impression 
was  that  the  rebels,  learning  of  Ho's  departure, 
had  eluded  his  force  and  doubled  back  to  attack 
the  town,  which,  being  wealthy,  would  have  proved 
a  tempting  prize.  We  gazed  from  the  hillside  in 
the  direction  from  which  the  sound  came ;  but  a 
thick  mist  lay  over  the  fields  beyond  the  river  and 
prevented  the  flashes  from  being  visible.  We 
waited  impatiently  for  daylight.  The  rattle  of  rifle- 
firing  now  broke  out  suddenly  from  around  the 
Customs  station ;  and  we  trembled  for  the  safety 
of  Affleck-Scott  and  his  companion.  As  the  sound 
came  no  nearer  in  our  direction,  it  became  evident 
that  no  hostile  movement  against  us  was  intended. 
We  cursed  the  tardy  daylight.  At  last  day  broke ; 
but  still  the  low-lying  mists  obscured  our  view  of 
the  town  and  the  plain  beyond  the  river.  Then 
the  sun  rose.  The  fog  slowly  cleared  away.  We 
looked  eagerly  towards  Samchun,  expecting,  as  the 
firing  still  continued,  to  see  the  contending  forces 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    219 

engaged  in  deadly  battle.  But  to  our  surprise, 
though  every  house  in  the  town,  every  field  and 
bank  around  it,  stood  out  distinct  in  the  clear  light, 
scarcely  a  human  being  was  visible.  Before  the 
gates  a  few  soldiers  lounged  about  unconcernedly. 
But  the  firing  still  continued.  We  could  see 
nothing  to  account  for  it  and  began  to  wonder  if  it 
was  a  battle  of  phantoms.  Gradually  it  died  away 
and  left  us  still  bewildered.  Later  on  in  the  day 
came  the  explanation.  In  view  of  our  imaginary 
combat  it  was  simple  and  ludicrous.  The  day  was 
one  of  the  innumerable  Chinese  festivals;  and  the  in- 
habitants of  Samchun  and  the  neighbouring  villages 
had  been  ushering  it  in  in  the  usual  Celestial 
fashion  with  much  burning  of  crackers  and  ex- 
ploding of  bombs.  To  anyone  who  has  heard 
the  extraordinary  noise  of  Chinese  fireworks,  which 
accurately  reproduces  the  rattle  of  musketry  and  the 
booming  of  guns,  our  mistake  is  excusable.  At 
the  attack  on  the  Peiyang  Arsenal  outside  Tientsin, 
on  June  27th,  1900,  by  the  British,  Americans,  and 
Russians,  the  Chinese  defenders,  before  evacuating 
it  when  hard  pressed,  laid  strings  of  crackers  along 
the  walls.  As  our  marines  and  bluejackets,  with 
the  Americans,  advanced  to  the  final  assault  these 
were  set  fire  to.  The  explosions  sounded  like  a 
very  heavy  fusillade  and  the  assailants  took  cover. 
The  Chinese  meanwhile  bolted  out  of  the  arsenal 
and  got  safely  away  before  the  attackers  discovered 
the  trick  and  stormed  the  place. 


220          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

A  week  or  two  after  this  false  alarm,  I  obtained 
permission  to  cross  into  Chinese  territory  and  visit 
Samchun.  The  town  looked  very  interesting  at  a 
distance,  with  its  high  walls  and  two  square  stone 
towers,  which  were  in  reality  pawn-shops.  For  these 
establishments  in  China  are  looked  upon  as  safe 
deposit  offices.  A  rich  man  about  to  leave  home 
for  any  length  of  time  removes  his  valuables  to  the 
nearest  pawn-shop  and  there  stores  them.  They 
are  the  first  places  attacked  when  a  band  of  robbers 
seizes  some  small  town,  as  frequently  happens.  So 
they  are  built  in  the  form  of  strong  towers  with  the 
entrance  generally  several  feet  from  the  ground,  in 
order  that  the  proprietor  and  his  friends  may  retire 
within  and  defend  them. 

Accompanied  by  Captain  Woolley,  I.M.S.,  I  set 
out  to  visit  the  town,  having  received  many  injunc- 
tions to  be  careful  not  to  embroil  ourselves  with  the 
inhabitants  or  the  soldiery,  who  were  not  likely  to 
prove  over  friendly.  We  were  provided  with  inter- 
preters in  the  persons  of  a  Chinese  policeman  in 
British  employ  and  a  Sikh  constable  who  had 
learned  to  converse  very  well  in  the  language  of  the 
country.  As  we  intended  to  make  a  formal  call  on 
the  mandarin  in  command  of  Samchun  and  had 
heard  that  in  China  a  man's  importance  is  gauged 
by  the  size  of  his  visiting-card,  we  wrote  our  names 
on  sheets  of  foolscap — the  largest  pieces  of  paper 
we  could  find.  Red,  however,  is  the  proper  colour. 
In  mufti  and  taking  no  weapons,  we  left  the  camp 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    221 

and  crossed  the  river  in  a  small,  flat-bottomed  ferry- 
boat. Landed  on  the  far  side,  we  set  off  along  the 
tops  of  the  mud  banks  between  the  paddy-fields, 
the  only  roads  available.  Those  which  are  used  as 
general  paths  are  laid  with  flat  stones,  which,  not 
being  fastened  in  any  way,  occasionally  tilt  up  and 
slide  about  in  a  disconcerting  manner.  As  we 
neared  the  town  we  were  observed  with  interest  by 
a  number  of  Chinese  soldiers  lounging  about  in 
front  of  the  principal  gateway.  We  felt  a  little 
nervous  as  to  our  reception  but  putting  a  bold  face 
on  the  matter  directed  our  way  towards  them.  We 
were  stopped,  however,  by  our  Chinese  policeman, 
who  told  us  that  we  should  not  approach  this  en- 
trance as  it  faced  the  mandarin's  Yamen  and  was 
reserved  for  important  individuals.  We  being  merely 
foreigners — this  although  he  was  in  British  employ- 
ment ! — must  seek  admittance  through  the  back  gate 
into  the  town.  Irritated  at  his  insolent  tone,  the 
Sikh  constable  shoved  him  aside,  and  we  approached 
the  guard.  The  soldiers,  though  not  openly  hostile 
— for  the  white  tents  of  our  camp,  plainly  visible 
across  the  river,  had  a  sobering  effect — treated  us 
with  scarcely-veiled  contempt.  On  our  Sikh  inter- 
preter informing  them  that  we  were  English  officers 
who  had  come  to  visit  their  mandarin,  they  airily 
replied  that  that  dignitary  was  asleep  and  could  not 
see  us.  Annoyed  at  their  impertinent  manner,  we 
ordered  them  to  go  and  wake  him.  Rather  im- 
pressed by  our  audacity,  they  held  a  consultation. 


222  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Then  one  went  into  the  Yamen.  He  returned  in  a 
few  minutes  with  a  message  to  the  effect  that  the 
mandarin  regretted  that  he  could  not  see  us  as  he 
was  not  dressed.  Seeing  the  effect  of  our  previous 
curtness,  we  haughtily  bade  the  soldier  tell  the 
mandarin  to  put  on  his  clothes  at  once  ;  see  him  we 
must.  Visibly  impressed  this  time,  he  hastened  in- 
side again  and  promptly  returned  with  an  invitation 
to  enter  the  Yamen.  We  passed  through  the  gate 
with  as  important  an  air  as  we  could  assume.  It 
had  been  a  game  of  bluff  on  both  sides  and  we  had 
won ;  for  on  the  verandah  of  the  house  inside  the 
entrance  we  were  received  by  the  mandarin,  cor- 
rectly attired.  With  hands  folded  over  each  other, 
he  bowed  low  and  led  the  way  into  the  interior. 
The  room  was  small  and  plainly  furnished.  High- 
backed,  uncomfortable  chairs  stood  round  a  square 
blackwood  table.  On  the  walls  hung  crude  pictures 
or  tablets  painted  with  Chinese  characters.  Our 
host,  who  was  really  a  most  courteous  old  gentle- 
man, bowed  again  and,  pointing  to  the  chairs, 
begged  us — as  we  judged  from  his  manner — to  be 
seated.  We  politely  refused  until  he  had  taken  a 
chair  himself.  He  then  addressed  us  in  sing-song 
Chinese  words,  which  our  Sikh  interpreter  assured 
us  were  an  expression  of  the  honour  he  felt  at  our 
condescending  to  visit  such  an  unworthy  individual. 
We  framed  our  reply  in  equally  humble  terms.  He 
then  inquired  the  reason  of  the  coming  of  our  force 
to  the  frontier.  We  informed  him  that  it  was 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    223 

merely  to  guard  our  territory  from  invasion  and 
assured  him  that  we  had  no  evil  designs  on  Sam- 
chun.  He  pretended  to  feel  satisfied  at  this,  but 
doubt  evidently  still  lingered  in  his  mind.  The 
conversation  then  dragged  on  spasmodically  until 
we  asked  his  permission  to  visit  the  town.  He 
seemed  to  hail  our  request  with  relief  as  a  chance 
of  politely  ridding  himself  of  us  and  ordered  four 
soldiers  to  get  ready  to  accompany  us  as  an  escort. 
One  of  the  attendants,  at  a  sign  from  him,  then  left 
the  room  and  returned  with  three  little  cups  covered 
with  brass  saucers. 

"  Now  we  shall  taste  really  high-class  Chinese 
tea,"  said  Woolley  to  me  in  an  undertone. 

We  removed  the  saucers.  The  cups  were  filled 
with  boiling  water.  At  the  bottom  lay  a  few  black 
twigs  and  leaves.  Imitating  the  mandarin's  actions, 
we  raised  our  cups  in  both  hands  and  tried  to  drink 
the  hot  and  tasteless  contents.  The  Chinese  tea 
was  a  distinct  failure. 

A  few  black,  formidable-looking  cigars  were  now 
placed  upon  the  table.  Mindful  of  the  vile  odours 
that  inevitably  possess  the  filthy  streets  of  the 
native  towns  in  China,  we  took  some.  Then  as 
our  escort  appeared  in  the  courtyard  in  front  of  the 
house,  we  rose.  Expressing  profuse  thanks  to  our 
courteous  host  through  the  interpreter,  we  folded 
our  hands  and  bowed  ourselves  out  in  the  politest 
Chinese  fashion. 

Following  our  military  guides,  we    entered  the 


224          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

town.  They  led  us  first  to  the  house  of  a  lesser 
mandarin,  whom  we  visited.  He  was  as  surly  as 
his  superior  was  amiable.  He  very  speedily  ordered 
tea  for  us  as  a  sign  of  dismissal.  However,  as  a 
mark  of  attention,  he  sent  two  lantern-bearers  to 
accompany  us.  Quitting  him  with  little  hesitation, 
we  followed  our  escort  and  plunged  again  into  the 
town.  The  streets  were  narrow  and  indescribably 
filthy.  Deep,  open  drains  bordered  them,  filled 
with  refuse.  Extending  our  arms,  we  could  nearly 
touch  the  houses  on  each  side.  On  either  hand 
were  shops,  some  with  glass  -  windowed  fronts, 
others  open  to  the  street.  Some  were  fairly  exten- 
sive, filled  with  garments  or  rolls  of  cloth.  Others 
exhibited  for  sale  clocks,  cheap  embroidery,  tinsel 
jewellery,  or  common  pottery.  Every  third  one 
at  least  sold  food,  raw  or  cooked.  Dried  fish  or 
ducks  split  open,  the  heads  and  necks  of  the  latter 
attached  to  the  bodies ;  pork,  meat,  and  sucking- 
pigs  ;  rice,  flour,  or  vegetables.  Near  one  shop 
stood  a  grinning  Chinaman  who  spoke  to  us  in 
pidgin- English.  Beside  him  was  an  open  barrel 
filled  with  what  looked  like  dried  prunes.  I  pointed 
to  them  and  asked  what  they  were. 

"  That  ? "  he  said,  popping  one  into  his  mouth 
and  munching  it  with  evident  relish.  "  That  belong 
cocky-loachee.  Velly  good !  " 

They  were  dried  cockroaches ! 

Farther  on  another  pig- tailed  individual  spoke  to 
us  in  fluent  English  with  a  Yankee  twang. 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA    225 

"  Do  you  live  in  Samchun  ? "  I  asked  him,  in 
surprise. 

"  Not  much,  you  bet ! "  he  replied.  "  I  don't 
belong  to  this  darned  country  any  more.  I  live  in 
'Frisco." 

He  explained  that  he  had  come  to  Hong  Kong 
as  a  sailor  on  an  American  vessel,  and  had  wandered 
out  to  Samchun  to  see  a  relative.  With  a  "  So  long, 
boss ! "  from  him  we  passed  on. 

Every  fifth  or  sixth  house  was  a  gambling-den. 
Around  the  tables  were  seated  Chinamen  of  all 
ages  engaged  in  playing  fan-tan,  that  slowest  and 
most  exasperating  of  all  methods  of  "  plunging." 
The  interiors  of  these  establishments  were  gay 
with  much  elaborate  gilt  carving. 

It  was  now  growing  dark,  and  our  lantern-bearers 
lighted  the  paper  lamps  swinging  at  the  end  of  long 
sticks  they  carried.  We  directed  our  escort  to  lead 
us  out  of  the  town.  We  wished  to  dismiss  them  at 
the  gate  ;  but  they  assured  the  interpreter  that  their 
orders  were  strict — not  to  quit  us  until  they  had 
seen  us  safely  out  of  Chinese  territory.  So  we  made 
our  way  to  the  river.  Arrived  there,  my  companion 
and  I  discussed  the  question  as  to  whether  we 
should  reward  our  escort  with  a  tip  or  whether 
they  would  be  insulted,  being  soldiers,  at  the  offer. 
Finally  we  resolved  to  give  them  a  dollar.  If  they 
did  not  look  satisfied,  we  would  increase  the  amount. 
So  a  bright  English  dollar  was  handed  to  the  Sikh 
to  be  given  to  them.  Satisfied !  They  seemed  as 
Q 


226          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

if  they  had  never  seen  such  wealth  before.  They 
crowded  round  us  with  voluble  thanks ;  and  with 
quite  an  affecting  farewell  we  went  down  to  the 
water's  edge.  To  our  surprise  we  found  our  com- 
manding officer  with  a  party  of  armed  sepoys  cross- 
ing over  to  us  in  the  ferry-boat.  Alarmed  at  our 
long  absence,  he  had  feared  that  something  un- 
toward had  happened  to  us  and  was  coming  in 
search  of  us.  When  we  arrived  at  the  camp  we 
found  the  others  rather  uneasy  about  us  ;  though 
some  cheerfully  assured  us  that  they  had  been 
hoping  that  the  Chinese  had  at  least  captured  us 
to  give  them  an  excuse  for  attacking  and  looting 
Samchun. 

Shortly  afterwards,  interested  at  our  description 
of  our  adventures,  our  commanding  officer  deter- 
mined to  visit  Samchun.  A  letter  in  Chinese  was 
sent  to  the  mandarin  to  acquaint  him  with  our 
chief's  intention.  Next  morning  we  were  surprised 
by  the  sight  of  eight  Chinese  soldiers,  armed  with 
carbines  and  accompanied  by  the  Sikh  interpreter, 
crossing  the  river  and  ascending  the  path  to  the 
camp.  As  they  approached  the  tents  our  sepoys, 
anxious  to  see  the  redoubtable  warriors  at  close 
range,  rushed  out  and  flocked  round  them.  Terri- 
fied at  the  sight  of  these  strange  black  men,  the 
Chinese  soldiers  dropped  on  their  knees,  flung  their 
carbines  on  the  ground,  and  held  up  their  hands  in 
abject  supplication,  entreating  the  interpreter  to  beg 
the  fierce-looking  foreign  devils  not  to  beat  them. 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA   227 

The  sepoys  roared  with  laughter,  patted  them  on 
the  backs,  and  bore  them  off  to  their  tents  to  soothe 
them  with  tea  and  cigarettes.  The  Sikh  constable 
was  the  bearer  of  a  message  from  the  mandarin, 
expressing  his  pleasure  at  the  intended  visit  of  our 
commandant  and  informing  him  that  an  escort  had 
been  sent  as  a  mark  of  honour.  Accompanied  by 
twenty  of  our  tallest  sepoys  we  crossed  the  river 
and  set  out  for  Samchun. 

As  we  approached  the  town  we  found  that  the 
whole  garrison  of  400  men  had  been  turned  out  to 
welcome  us  and  were  formed  up  to  line  the  road 
near  the  gate  of  the  Yamen.  Fourteen  huge 
banners  of  many  colours  waved  above  the  ranks. 
In  front  of  the  entrance  stood  the  mandarin  and 
his  suite  in  their  gala  dress,  waiting  to  receive  us. 
Our  commanding  officer  had  ridden  up  on  his  Arab 
charger,  which  must  have  seemed  an  immense  horse 
to  the  Chinamen  present,  accustomed  only  to  the 
diminutive  ponies  of  their  own  country.  The  man- 
darin came  forward  to  welcome  our  chief  and 
apologised  for  not  receiving  him  with  a  salute  of 
cannon,  as,  he  said,  he  had  been  afraid  of  startling 
his  steed ! 

While  compliments  were  being  exchanged,  I 
walked  down  the  ranks  of  the  Chinese  troops  and 
inspected  them  closely.  They  were  nearly  all  small 
and  miserable-looking  men,  clad  in  long  red  or  blue 
coats,  with  huge  straw  hats.  They  were  armed 
with  single-loading  Mausers  or  Winchester  repeating 


228          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

carbines.  I  looked  at  a  few  of  these.  The  outside 
of  the  barrels  were  bright  and  had  evidently  been 
cleaned  with  emery  paper ;  but  inside  they  were 
completely  choked  with  rust  and  the  weapons  were 
absolutely  useless.  The  men  were  evidently  merely 
coolies,  hurriedly  impressed  by  the  mandarins  when 
called  upon  by  the  Viceroy  of  Canton  to  produce 
the  troops  for  whom  they  regularly  drew  pay.  This 
is  a  favourite  device  of  the  corrupt  Chinese  officials, 
who  receive  an  allowance  to  keep  up  a  certain 
number  of  soldiers.  They  buy  and  store  a  corre- 
sponding number  of  uniforms  and  rifles.  When 
warned  of  an  approaching  inspection  by  some 
higher  authority,  they  gather  in  coolies  and  clothe 
and  arm  them  for  the  duration  of  his  visit.  The 
superior  official — his  own  palm  having  been  well 
greased — forbears  to  inspect  them  too  closely,  and 
departs  to  report  to  the  Viceroy  of  the  province 
that  the  troops  are  of  excellent  quality.  Then  the 
uniforms  and  rifles  are  returned  to  store,  and  the 
coolies  dismissed  with — or  more  probably  without — 
a  few  cents  to  recompense  them  for  their  trouble. 

Latterly  in  the  North  this  does  not  always  occur; 
and  some  of  the  troops,  trained  by  foreigners  and 
armed  with  the  latest  quick-firing  guns  and  magazine 
rifles,  are  very  good.  The  Imperial  forces  which 
opposed  Admiral  Seymour's  advance  and  attacked 
Tientsin  were  of  very  different  calibre  to  those 
employed  in  the  suppression  of  the  Triad  rebellion. 
The  shooting  of  their  gunners  and  riflemen  was 


ON   COLUMN   IN   SOUTHERN   CHINA   229 

excellent.  The  army  of  Yuan- Shi -Kai,  who  was 
Governor  of  the  province  of  Shantung  during  the 
troubles  in  the  North,  is  a  good  example  of  what 
Chinese  soldiers  can  be  when  well  trained. 

The  interview  between  the  mandarin  of  Samchun 
and  our  commanding  officer  was  an  elaborate  repeti- 
tion of  my  own  experience.  The  visit  over,  we 
entered  the  town,  inspected  some  of  the  temples, 
and  bought  some  curiosities  in  the  shops.  Then, 
escorted  by  our  original  party  of  Chinese  soldiers, 
we  returned  to  the  river. 

At  the  end  of  November  we  were  roused  one 
night  by  urgent  messages  from  the  British  police 
in  the  Hinterland  to  the  effect  that  parties  of  rebels 
were  hovering  on  the  frontier  and  it  was  feared 
that  they  intended  to  raid  across  into  our  territory. 
In  response  to  their  request,  a  strong  party  was  sent 
out  at  once  to  reinforce  them.  About  four  a.m.  a 
European  police  sergeant  arrived  in  breathless  haste 
with  the  information  that  the  rebels  had  crossed  the 
boundary  and  seized  two  villages  lying  inside  our 
border.  They  had  fired  on  the  police  patrols.  Two 
companies  of  the  22nd  Bombay  Infantry,  under 
Captain  Hatherell  and  Lieutenant  Burke,  fell  in 
promptly  and  marched  off  under  the  guidance  of 
two  Sikh  policemen  sent  for  the  purpose.  Pre- 
ceded by  scouts  and  a  strong  advanced  guard, 
under  a  Pathan  native  officer,  Subhedar  Khitab 
Gul,  they  bore  down  at  daybreak  on  the  villages 
reported  captured.  But  the  rebels  had  apparently 


230          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

received  information  of  their  coming  and  had  fled 
back  across  the  border.  The  troops,  bitterly  dis- 
appointed at  being  deprived  of  a  fight,  returned 
about  nine  a.m.  to  camp,  where  the  remainder  of  the 
force  had  been  ready  to  support  them  if  necessary. 

No  further  attempts  were  ever  made  against  our 
territory,  and  shortly  afterwards  the  Frontier  Field 
Force  returned  to  headquarters. 


CHAPTER  X 
IN  THE  PORTUGUESE  COLONY  OF  MACAO 

FORTY  miles  from  Hong  Kong,  hidden  away 
among  the  countless  islands  that  fringe  the 
entrance  to  the  estuary  of  the  Chukiang  or  Pearl 
River,  lies  the  Portuguese  settlement  of  Macao. 
Once  flourishing  and  prosperous,  the  centre  of 
European  trade  with  Southern  China,  it  is  now 
decaying  and  almost  unknown — killed  by  the  com- 
petition of  its  young  and  successful  rival.  Long 
before  Elizabeth  ascended  the  throne  of  England 
the  venturesome  Portuguese  sailors  and  merchants 
had  reached  the  Far  East.  There  they  carried 
their  country's  flag  over  seas  where  now  it  never 
flies.  An  occasional  gunboat  represents  in  Chinese 
waters  their  once  powerful  and  far-roaming  navy. 

In  the  island  of  Lampacao,  off  the  south-eastern 
coast,  their  traders  were  settled,  pushing  their  com- 
merce with  the  mainland.  In  1557  the  neigh- 
bouring peninsula  of  Macao  was  ceded  to  them  in 
token  of  the  Chinese  Emperor's  gratitude  for  their 
aid  in  destroying  the  power  of  a  pirate  chief  who 
had  long  held  sway  in  the  seas  around.  The  Dutch, 
the  envious  rivals  of  the  Portuguese  in  the  East, 
turned  covetous  eyes  on  the  little  colony  which 

231 


232          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

speedily  began  to  flourish.  In  1622  the  troops 
in  Macao  were  despatched  to  assist  the  Chinese 
against  the  Tartars.  Taking  advantage  of  their 
absence,  the  Governor  of  the  Dutch  East  Indies 
fitted  out  a  fleet  to  capture  their  city.  In  the  June 
of  that  year  the  hostile  ships  appeared  off  Macao 
and  landed  a  force  to  storm  the  fort.  The  valiant 
citizens  fell  upon  and  defeated  the  invaders ;  and 
the  Dutch  sailed  away  baffled.  Until  the  early 
part  of  the  nineteenth  century  the  Portuguese  paid 
an  annual  tribute  of  five  hundred  taels  to  the 
Chinese  Government  in  acknowledgment  of  their 
nominal  suzerainty.  In  1848,  the  then  Governor, 
Ferreira  Amaral,  refused  to  continue  this  payment 
and  expelled  the  Chinese  officials  from  the  colony. 
In  1887,  the  independence  of  Macao  was  formally 
admitted  by  the  Emperor  in  a  treaty  to  that  effect. 

But  the  palmy  days  of  its  commerce  died  with 
the  birth  of  Hong  Kong.  The  importance  of  the 
Portuguese  settlement  has  dwindled  away.  Macao 
is  but  a  relic  of  the  past.  Its  harbour  is  empty. 
The  sea  around  has  silted  up  with  the  detritus  from 
the  Pearl  River  until  now  no  large  vessels  can 
approach.  A  small  trade  in  tea,  tobacco,  opium, 
and  silk  is  all  that  is  left.  The  chief  revenue  is 
derived  from  the  taxes  levied  on  the  numerous 
Chinese  gambling-houses  in  the  city,  which  have 
gained  for  it  the  title  of  the  Monte  Carlo  of  the 
East. 

Macao  is  situated  on  a  small  peninsula  connected 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY   OF   MACAO    233 

by  a  long,  narrow  causeway  with  the  island  of 
Heung  Shan.  The  town  faces  southward  and, 
sheltered  by  another  island  from  the  boisterous 
gales  of  the  China  seas,  is  yet  cooled  by  the  re- 
freshing breezes  of  the  south,  from  which  quarter 
the  wind  blows  most  of  the  year  in  that  latitude. 
Victoria  in  our  colony,  on  the  other  hand,  is  cut  off 
from  them  by  the  high  Peak  towering  above  it;  and 
its  climate  in  consequence  is  hot  and  steamy  in  the 
long  and  unpleasant  summer.  So  Macao  is,  then, 
a  favourite  resort  of  the  citizens  of  Hong  Kong. 
The  large,  flat-bottomed  steamer  that  runs  between 
the  two  places  is  generally  crowded  on  Saturdays 
with  inhabitants  of  the  British  colony,  going  to 
spend  the  week-end  on  the  cooler  rival  island. 

The  commercial  competition  of  Macao  is  no 
longer  to  be  dreaded.  But  this  decaying  Portu- 
guese possession  has  recently  acquired  a  certain 
importance  in  the  eyes  of  the  Hong  Kong  author- 
ities and  our  statesmen  in  England  by  the  fears 
of  French  aggression  aroused  by  apparent  en- 
deavours to  gain  a  footing  in  Macao.  Attempts 
have  been  made  to  purchase  property  in  it  in  the 
name  of  the  French  Government  which  are  sus- 
pected to  be  the  thin  end  of  the  wedge.  Although 
the  colony  is  not  dangerous  in  the  hands  of  its 
present  possessors,  it  might  become  so  in  the  power 
of  more  enterprising  neighbours.  Were  it  occu- 
pied by  the  French  a  much  larger  garrison  would 
be  required  in  Hong  Kong.  Of  course,  any 


234          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

attempt  to  invade  our  colony  from  Macao  would 
be  difficult ;  as  the  transports  could  not  be  convoyed 
by  any  large  warships  owing  to  the  shallowness  of 
the  sea  between  the  two  places  until  Hong  Kong 
harbour  is  reached.  One  battleship  or  cruiser,  even 
without  the  assistance  of  the  forts,  should  suffice 
to  blow  out  of  the  water  any  vessels  of  sufficiently 
light  draught  to  come  out  of  the  port  of  Macao. 
If  any  specially  constructed,  powerfully  armed, 
shallow-draught  men-o'-war — which  alone  would  be 
serviceable  —  were  sent  out  from  Europe,  their 
arrival  would  be  noted  and  their  purpose  suspected. 
Still  an  opportunity  might  be  seized  when  our 
China  squadron  was  elsewhere  engaged  and  the 
garrison  of  Hong  Kong  denuded.  On  the  whole, 
the  Portuguese  are  preferable  neighbours  to  the 
aggressive  French  colonial  party,  which  is  con- 
stantly seeking  to  extend  its  influence  in  Southern 
China.  In  1802  and  again  in  1808  Macao  was 
occupied  by  us  as  a  precaution  against  its  seizure 
by  the  French. 

When  garrison  duty  in  Hong  Kong  during  the 
damp,  hot  days  of  the  summer  palled,  I  once  took 
ten  days'  leave  to  the  pleasanter  climate  of  Macao. 
I  embarked  in  Victoria  in  one  of  the  large,  shallow- 
draught  steamers  of  the  Hong  Kong,  Canton,  and 
Macao  Steamboat  Company,  which  keeps  up  the 
communication  between  the  English  and  Portuguese 
colonies  and  the  important  Chinese  city  by  a  fleet 
of  some  half-dozen  vessels.  With  the  exception  of 


PORTUGUESE  COLONY  OF  MACAO  235 

one,  they  are  all  large  and  roomy  craft  from  2,000 
to  3,000  tons  burden.  They  run  to,  and  return 
from,  Canton  twice  daily  on  week-days.  One  starts 
from  Hong  Kong  to  Macao  every  afternoon  and 
returns  the  following  morning,  except  on  Sundays. 
Between  Macao  and  Canton  they  ply  three  times 
a  week.  The  fares  are  not  exorbitant — from 
Hong  Kong  to  Macao  three  dollars,  to  Canton 
five,  each  way ;  between  Macao  and  Canton  three. 
The  Hong  Kong  dollar  in  1901  was  worth  about 
is.  lod. 

The  steamer  on  which  I  made  the  short  passage 
to  Macao  was  the  Heungshan  (1,998  tons).  She 
was  a  large  shallow-draught  vessel,  painted  white 
for  the  sake  of  coolness.  She  was  mastless,  with 
one  high  funnel,  painted  black ;  the  upper  deck 
was  roomy  and  almost  unobstructed.  The  sides 
between  it  and  the  middle  deck  were  open ;  and 
a  wide  promenade  lay  all  round  the  outer  bulkheads 
of  the  cabins  on  the  latter.  Extending  from  amid- 
ships to  near  the  bows  were  the  first-class  state- 
rooms and  a  spacious,  white  -  and  -  gold  -  panelled 
saloon.  For'ard  of  this  the  deck  was  open.  Shaded 
by  the  upper  deck  overhead,  this  formed  a  delight- 
ful spot  to  laze  in  long  chairs  and  gaze  over  the 
placid  water  of  the  land-locked  sea  at  the  ever- 
changing  scenery.  Aft  on  the  same  deck  was  the 
second-class  accommodation.  Between  the  outer 
row  of  cabins  round  the  sides  a  large  open  space 
was  left.  This  was  crowded  with  fat  and  prosperous- 


236          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

looking  Chinamen,  lolling  on  chairs  or  mats,  smoking 
long-stemmed  pipes  with  tiny  bowls  and  surrounded 
by  piles  of  luggage. 

Below,  on  the  lower  deck,  were  herded  the  third- 
class  passengers,  all  Chinese  coolies.  The  com- 
panion-ways leading  up  to  the  main  deck  were 
closed  by  padlocked  iron  gratings.  At  the  head  of 
each  stood  an  armed  sentry,  a  half-caste  or  Chinese 
quartermaster  in  bluejacket-like  uniform  and  naval 
straw  hat.  He  was  equipped  with  carbine  and 
revolver ;  and  close  by  him  was  a  rack  of  rifles  and 
cutlasses.  All  the  steamers  plying  between  Hong 
Kong,  Macao,  and  Canton  are  similarly  guarded ;  for 
the  pirates  who  infest  the  Pearl  River  and  the  net- 
work of  creeks  near  its  mouth  have  been  known  to 
embark  on  them  as  innocent  coolies  and  then 
suddenly  rise,  overpower  the  crew  and  seize  the 
ship.  For  these  vessels,  besides  conveying  specie 
and  cargo,  have  generally  a  number  of  wealthy 
Chinese  passengers  aboard,  who  frequently  carry 
large  sums  of  money  with  them. 

The  Heungshan  cast  off  from  the  crowded, 
bustling  wharf  and  threaded  her  way  out  of  Hong 
Kong  harbour  between  the  numerous  merchant 
ships  lying  at  anchor.  In  between  Lantau  and  the 
mainland  we  steamed  over  the  placid  water  of  what 
seemed  an  inland  lake.  The  shallow  sea  is  here 
so  covered  with  islands  that  it  is  generally  as 
smooth  as  a  mill-pond.  Past  stately  moving  junks 
and  fussy  little  steam  launches  we  held  our  way. 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY  OF   MACAO    237 

Islands  and  mainland  rising  in  green  hills  from  the 
water's  edge  hemmed  in  the  narrow  channel.  In 
about  two  and  a  half  hours  we  sighted  Macao. 
We  saw  ahead  of  us  a  low  eminence  covered  with 
the  buildings  of  a  European-looking  town.  Behind 
it  rose  a  range  of  bleak  mountains.  We  passed 
along  by  a  gently  curving  bay  lined  with  houses 
and  fringed  with  trees,  rounded  a  cape,  and  entered 
the  natural  harbour  which  lies  between  low  hills. 
It  was  crowded  with  junks  and  sampans.  In  the 
middle  lay  a  trim  Portuguese  gunboat,  the  Zaire, 
three-masted,  with  white  superstructure  and  funnel 
and  black  hull.  The  small  Canton-Macao  steamer 
was  moored  to  the  wharf. 

The  quay  was  lined  with  Chinese  houses,  two- 
or  three  -  storied,  with  arched  verandahs.  The 
Heungshan  ran  alongside,  the  hawsers  were  made 
fast,  and  gangways  run  ashore.  The  Chinese  pas- 
sengers, carrying  their  baggage,  trooped  on  to  the 
wharf.  One  of  them  in  his  hurry  knocked  roughly 
against  a  Portuguese  Customs  officer  who  caught 
him  by  the  pigtail  and  boxed  his  ears  in  reward 
for  his  awkwardness.  It  was  a  refreshing  sight 
after  the  pampered  and  petted  way  in  which  the 
Chinaman  is  treated  by  the  authorities  in  Hong 
Kong.  There  the  lowest  coolie  can  be  as  im- 
pertinent as  he  likes  to  Europeans,  for  he  knows 
that  the  white  man  who  ventures  to  chastise  him 
for  his  insolence  will  be  promptly  summoned  to 
appear  before  a  magistrate  and  fined.  Our  treat- 


238          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

ment  of  the  subject  races  throughout  our  Empire 
errs  chiefly  in  its  lack  of  common  justice  to  the 
European. 

Seated  in  a  ricksha,  pulled  and  pushed  by  two 
coolies  up  steep  streets,  I  was  finally  deposited  at 
the  door  of  the  Boa  Vista  Hotel.  This  excellent 
hostelry — which  the  French  endeavoured  to  secure 
for  a  naval  hospital,  and  which  has  since  been 
purchased  by  the  Portuguese  Government  —  was 
picturesquely  situated  on  a  low  hill  overlooking  the 
town.  The  ground  on  one  side  fell  sharply  down 
to  the  sea  which  lapped  the  rugged  rocks  and 
sandy  beach  two  or  three  hundred  feet  below.  On 
the  other,  from  the  foot  of  the  hill,  a  pretty  bay  with 
a  tree-shaded  esplanade — called  the  Praia  Grande 
— stretched  away  to  a  high  cape  about  a  mile 
distant.  The  bay  was  bordered  by  a  line  of  houses, 
prominent  among  which  was  the  Governor's  Palace. 
Behind  them  the  city,  built  on  rising  ground,  rose 
in  terraces.  The  buildings  were  all  of  the  Southern 
European  type,  with  tiled  roofs,  Venetian-shuttered 
windows,  and  walls  painted  pink,  white,  blue,  or 
yellow.  Away  in  the  heart  of  the  town  the  gaunt, 
shattered  facade  of  a  ruined  church  stood  on 
a  slight  eminence.  Here  and  there  small  hills 
crowned  with  the  crumbling  walls  of  ancient  forts 
rose  up  around  the  city. 

Eager  for  a  closer  acquaintance  with  Macao,  I 
drove  out  that  afternoon  in  a  ricksha.  I  was 
whirled  first  along  the  Praia  Grande,  which  runs 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY   OF   MACAO    239 

around  the  curving  bay  below  the  hotel.  On  the 
right-hand  side  lay  a  strongly  built  sea-wall.  On 
the  tree-shaded  promenade  between  it  and  the  road- 
way groups  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  were 
enjoying  the  cool  evening  breeze.  Sturdy  little 
Portuguese  soldiers  in  dark-blue  uniforms  and  kdpis 
strolled  along  in  two  and  threes,  ogling  the  yellow 
or  dark-featured  Macaese  ladies,  a  few  of  whom 
wore  mantillas.  Half-caste  youths,  resplendent  in 
loud  check  suits  and  immaculate  collars  and  cuffs, 
sat  on  the  sea-wall  or,  airily  puffing  their  cheap 
cigarettes,  sauntered  along  the  promenade  with 
languid  grace.  Grave  citizens  walked  with  their 
families,  the  prettier  portion  of  whom  affected  to  be 
demurely  unconscious  of  the  admiring  looks  of  the 
aforesaid  dandies.  A  couple  of  priests  in  shovel 
hats  and  long,  black  cassocks  moved  along  in  the 
throng. 

The  left  side  of  the  Praia  was  lined  with  houses, 
among  which  were  some  fine  buildings,  including 
the  Government,  Post  and  Telegraph  Bureaus, 
commercial  offices,  private  residences,  and  a  large 
mansion,  with  two  projecting  wings,  the  Governor's 
Palace.  At  the  entrance  stood  a  sentry,  while  the 
rest  of  the  guard  lounged  near  the  doorway.  At 
the  end  of  the  Praia  Grande  were  the  pretty  public 
gardens,  shaded  by  banyan  trees,  with  flower-beds, 
a  bandstand,  and  a  large  building  beyond  it — the 
Military  Club.  Past  the  gate  of  the  Gardens  the 
road  turned  away  from  the  sea  and  ran  between 


240          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

rows  of  Chinese  houses  until  it  reached  the  long, 
tree-bordered  Estrada  da  Flora.  On  the  left  lay 
cultivated  land.  On  the  right  the  ground  sloped 
gently  back  to  a  bluff  hill,  on  which  stood  a  light- 
house, the  oldest  in  China.  At  the  foot  of  this 
eminence  lay  the  pretty  summer  residence  of  the 
Governor,  picturesquely  named  Flora,  surrounded 
by  gardens  and  fenced  in  by  a  granite  wall.  Con- 
tinuing under  the  name  of  Estrada  da  Bella  Vista, 
the  road  ran  on  to  the  sea  and  turned  to  the  left 
around  a  flower -bordered,  terraced  green  mound, 
at  the  summit  of  which  was  a  look-out  whence  a 
charming  view  was  obtained.  From  this  the  mound 
derives  the  name  of  Bella  Vista.  In  front  lay  a 
shallow  bay.  To  the  left  the  shore  curved  round 
to  a  long,  low,  sandy  causeway,  which  connects 
Macao  with  the  island  of  Heung  Shan.  Midway 
on  this  stood  a  masonry  gateway,  Porta  Cerco, 
which  marks  the  boundary  between  Portuguese  and 
Chinese  territory.  Hemmed  in  by  a  sea-wall,  the 
road  continued  from  Bella  Vista  along  above  the 
beach,  past  the  isthmus,  on  which  was  a  branch 
road  leading  to  the  Porta,  by  a  stretch  of  cultivated 
ground,  and  round  the  peninsula,  until  it  reached 
the  city  again. 

After  dinner  that  evening,  accompanied  by  a 
friend  staying  at  the  same  hotel,  I  strolled  down 
to  the  Public  Gardens,  where  the  police  band  was 
playing  and  the  "beauty  and  fashion"  of  Macao 
assembled.  They  were  crowded  with  gay  pro- 


PORTUGUESE  COLONY  OF  MACAO  241 

menaders.  Trim  Portuguese  naval  or  military 
officers,  brightly  dressed  ladies,  soldiers,  civilians, 
priests  and  laity  strolled  up  and  down  the  walks  or 
sat  on  the  benches.  Sallow-complexioned  children 
chased  each  other  round  the  flower-beds.  Opposite 
the  bandstand  stood  a  line  of  chairs  reserved  for 
the  Governor  and  his  party.  We  met  some  ac- 
quaintances among  the  few  British  residents  in 
the  colony ;  and  one  of  them,  being  an  honorary 
member  of  the  Military  Club  situated  at  one  end 
of  the  Gardens,  invited  us  into  it.  We  sat  at  one 
of  the  little  tables  on  the  terrace,  where  the  e"lite  of 
Macao  drank  their  coffee  and  liqueurs,  and  watched 
the  gay  groups  promenading  below.  The  scene 
was  animated  and  interesting,  thoroughly  typical  of 
the  way  in  which  Continental  nations  enjoy  outdoor 
life,  as  the  English  never  can.  Hong  Kong,  with 
all  its  wealth  and  large  European  population,  has 
no  similar  social  gathering-place ;  and  its  citizens 
wrap  themselves  in  truly  British  unneighbourly 
isolation. 

The  government  of  Macao  is  administered  from 
Portugal.  The  Governor  is  appointed  from  Europe; 
and  the  local  Senate  is  vested  solely  with  the  muni- 
cipal administration  of  the  colony.  The  garrison 
consists  of  Portuguese  artillerymen  to  man  the  forts 
and  a  regiment  of  Infantry  of  the  Line,  relieved 
regularly  from  Europe.  There  is  also  a  battalion 
of  police,  supplemented  by  Indian  and  Chinese 
constables — the  former  recruited  among  the  natives 


242  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

of  the  Portuguese  territory  of  Goa  on  the  Bombay 
coast,  though  many  of  the  sepoys  hail  from  British 
India.  A  gunboat  is  generally  stationed  in  the 
harbour.  The  troubles  all  over  China  in  1900  had 
a  disturbing  influence  even  in  this  isolated  Portu- 
guese colony.  An  attack  from  Canton  was  feared 
in  Macao  as  well  as  in  Hong  Kong;  and  the  utmost 
vigilance  was  observed  by  the  garrison.  One  night 
heavy  firing  was  heard  from,  the  direction  of  the 
Porta  Cerco,  the  barrier  on  the  isthmus.  It  was 
thought  that  the  Chinese  were  at  last  descending 
on  the  settlement.  The  alarm  sounded  and  the 
troops  were  called  out.  Sailors  were  landed  from 
the  Zaire  with  machine-guns.  A  British  resident 
in  Macao  told  me  that  so  prompt  were  the  garrison 
in  turning  out  that  in  twenty  minutes  all  were  at 
their  posts  and  every  position  for  defence  occupied. 
At  each  street-corner  stood  a  strong  guard ;  and 
machine-guns  were  placed  so  as  to  prevent  any 
attempt  on  the  part  of  the  Chinese  in  the  city  to 
aid  their  fellow-countrymen  outside.  However,  it 
was  found  that  the  alarm  was  occasioned  by  the 
villagers  who  lived  just  outside  the  boundary,  firing 
on  the  guards  at  the  barrier  in  revenge  for  the  con- 
tinual insults  to  which  their  women,  when  passing 
in  and  out  to  market  in  Macao,  were  subjected  by 
the  Portuguese  soldiers  at  the  gate.  No  attack 
followed  and  the  incident  had  no  further  conse- 
quences. At  the  close  of  1901  or  the  beginning  of 
1902,  more  serious  alarm  was  caused  by  the  con- 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY  OF   MACAO    243 

duct  of  the  regiment  recently  arrived  from  Portugal 
in  relief.  Dissatisfied  with  their  pay  or  at  service 
in  the  East,  the  men  mutinied  and  threatened  to 
seize  the  town.  The  situation  was  difficult,  as  they 
formed  the  major  portion  of  the  garrison.  Eventu- 
ally, however,  the  artillerymen,  the  police  battalion, 
and  the  sailors  from  the  Zaire  succeeded  in  over- 
awing and  disarming  them.  The  ringleaders  were 
seized  and  punished,  and  that  incident  closed. 

The  European-born  Portuguese  in  the  colony  are 
few  and  consist  chiefly  of  the  Government  officials 
and  their  families  and  the  troops.  They  look  down 
upon  the  Macaese — as  the  colonials  are  called — 
with  the  supreme  contempt  of  the  pure-blooded 
white  man  for  the  half-caste.  For,  judging  from 
their  complexions  and  features,  few  of  the  Macaese 
are  of  unmixed  descent.  So  the  Portuguese  from 
Europe  keep  rigidly  aloof  from  them  and  unbend 
only  to  the  few  British  and  Americans  resident  in 
the  colony.  These  are  warmly  welcomed  in  Macao 
society  and  freely  admitted  into  the  exclusive  official 
circles. 

On  the  day  following  my  arrival,  I  went  in 
uniform  to  call  upon  the  Governor  in  the  palace 
on  the  Praia  Grande.  Accompanied  by  a  friend,  I 
rickshaed  from  the  hotel  to  the  gate  of  the  court- 
yard. The  guard  at  the  entrance  saluted  as  we 
approached ;  and  I  endeavoured  to  explain  the 
reason  of  our  coming  to  the  sergeant  in  command. 
English  and  French  were  both  beyond  his  under- 


244          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

standing ;  but  he  called  to  his  assistance  a  function- 
ary, clad  in  gorgeous  livery,  who  succeeded  in 
grasping  the  fact  that  we  wished  to  see  the  aide-de- 
camp to  the  Governor.  He  ushered  us  into  a 
waiting-room  opening  off  the  spacious  hall.  In  a 
few  minutes  a  smart,  good-looking  officer  in  white 
duck  uniform  entered.  He  was  the  aide-de-camp, 
Senhor  Carvalhaes.  Speaking  in  fluent  French,  he 
informed  us  that  the  Governor  was  not  in  the 
palace  but  would  probably  soon  return,  and  invited 
us  to  wait.  He  chatted  pleasantly  with  us,  gave 
us  much  interesting  information  about  Macao,  and 
proffered  his  services  to  make  our  stay  in  Portu- 
guese territory  as  enjoyable  as  he  could.  We  soon 
became  on  very  friendly  terms  and  he  accepted  an 
invitation  to  dine  with  us  at  the  hotel  that  night. 
The  sound  of  the  guard  turning  out  and  presenting 
arms  told  us  that  the  Governor  had  returned. 
Senhor  Carvalhaes,  praying  us  to  excuse  him,  went 
out  to  inform  his  Excellency  of  our  presence.  In  a 
few  minutes  the  Governor  entered  and  courteously 
welcomed  us  to  Macao.  He  spoke  English  ex- 
tremely well ;  although  he  had  only  begun  to  learn 
it  since  he  came  to  the  colony  not  very  long  before. 
After  a  very  pleasant  and  friendly  interview  with 
him  we  took  our  departure,  escorted  to  the  door 
by  the  aide-de-camp. 

On  the  following  day  I  paid  some  calls  on  the 
British  and  American  residents  and  then  went  down 
to  the  English  tennis-ground,  which  is  situated  close 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY   OF   MACAO    245 

to  Bella  Vista.  Here,  in  the  afternoons,  the  little 
colony  of  aliens  in  Macao  generally  assemble.  The 
consuls  and  their  wives  and  families,  with  a  few 
missionaries  and  an  occasional  merchant,  make  up 
their  number.  Close  by  the  tennis-courts,  in  a  high- 
walled  enclosure  shaded  by  giant  banyans,  lies  the 
English  cemetery. 

That  night  a  civilian  from  Hong  Kong,  Mr.  Ivan 
Grant- Smith,  and  I  had  an  unpleasant  adventure 
which  illustrates  the  scant  respect  with  which  the 
segis  of  British  power  is  regarded  abroad.  We  are 
prone  to  flatter  ourselves  that  the  world  stands  in 
awe  of  our  Empire's  might,  that  the  magic  words, 
"  I  am  an  English  citizen ! "  will  bear  us  scatheless 
through  any  danger.  The  following  instance — by 
no  means  an  isolated  one — of  how  British  subjects 
are  often  treated  by  the  meanest  officials  of  other 
States  may  be  instructive. 

We  had  dined  that  evening  at  the  house  of  one 
of  the  English  residents  in  Macao.  The  dinner, 
which  was  to  celebrate  the  birthday  of  his  son,  was 
followed  by  a  dance  ;  so  that  it  was  after  one  o'clock 
in  the  morning  before  we  left  to  walk  back  to  the 
hotel,  about  a  mile  away.  Leaving  the  main  streets, 
we  tried  a  short  cut  along  a  lonely  road  hemmed  in 
by  high  garden  walls.  The  ground  on  one  side 
sloped  up,  so  that  the  level  of  the  enclosures  was 
but  little  below  the  top  of  the  wall  fronting  the  road. 
As  we  passed  one  garden  some  dogs  inside  it,  roused 
by  our  voices,  climbed  on  the  wall  and  began  to 


246          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

bark  persistently  at  us.  In  the  vain  hope  of  silencing 
them,  Grant- Smith  threw  a  few  stones  at  the  noisy 
animals.  They  barked  all  the  more  furiously.  A 
small  gate  in  the  wall  a  little  distance  farther  on 
suddenly  opened  and  a  half-dressed  Portuguese 
appeared.  I  had  happened  to  stop  to  light  a  cigar, 
and  my  companion  had  gone  on  ahead.  The  new- 
comer on  the  scene  rushed  at  him  and  poured  forth 
a  torrent  of  what  was  evidently  abuse.  My  friend 
very  pacifically  endeavoured  to  explain  by  gestures 
what  had  happened ;  but  the  Portuguese,  becoming 
still  more  enraged,  shouted  for  the  police  patrol  and 
blew  a  whistle  loudly.  An  Indian  constable  ran  up. 
The  infuriated  citizen  spoke  to  him  in  Portuguese 
and  then  returned  inside  his  garden,  closing  the 
gate.  The  sepoy  seized  Mr.  Grant- Smith  by  the 
shoulder.  I  asked  him  in  Hindustani  what  my 
friend  had  done.  The  constable  replied  that  he  did 
not  know.  I  said,  "  Then  why  do  you  arrest  the 
sahib  ?  " 

"  Because  that  man  " — pointing  to  the  garden — 
"told  me  to  do  so." 

"  Who  is  he  ?  "  I  demanded,  naturally  concluding 
that  we  must  have  disturbed  the  slumbers  of  some 
official  whom  the  sepoy  recognised. 

To  my  astonishment  he  replied — 

"  I  do  not  know,  sahib.    I  never  saw  him  before." 

As  Grant- Smith  was  ignorant  of  Hindustani  and 
the  Indian  of  English,  I  was  forced  to  act  as  inter- 
preter. 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY  OF   MACAO    247 

"  Then,"  said  I,  "as  you  don't  know  of  what  the 
sahib  is  guilty  or  even  the  name  of  his  accuser,  you 
must  release  him." 

"  I  cannot,  sahib.  I  must  take  him  to  the  police- 
station." 

Another  Indian  constable  now  came  on  the  scene. 
I  explained  matters  to  him  and  insisted  on  his 
entering  the  garden  and  fetching  out  the  com- 
plainant. He  went  in,  and  in  a  few  minutes  returned 
with  the  Portuguese  hastily  clad.  He  was  in  a  very 
bad  temper  at  being  again  disturbed ;  for,  thinking 
that  he  had  comfortably  disposed  of  us  for  the  night, 
he  had  calmly  gone  to  bed. 

We  all  now  proceeded  to  a  small  police-station 
about  a  mile  away,  passing  the  hotel  on  the  road. 
Furious  at  the  unjust  arrest  and  irritated  at  the 
coolness  of  the  complainant  and  the  stupidity  of  the 
sepoy,  my  friend  and  I  were  anxious  to  see  some 
superior  authority.  We  never  doubted  that  a  prompt 
release  and  apology,  as  well  as  a  reprimand  to  the 
over-zealous  constable,  would  immediately  follow. 
British  subjects  were  not  to  be  treated  in  this  high- 
handed fashion ! 

Arrived  at  the  station,  we  found  only  a  Portuguese 
constable,  with  a  Chinese  policeman  lying  asleep  on 
a  guard-bed  in  the  corner.  The  accuser  now  came 
forward  and  charged  my  companion  with  "  throwing 
stones  at  a  dwelling-house,"  as  the  Indians  informed 
me.  Using  them  to  interpret,  I  endeavoured  to 
explain  the  affair  to  the  Portuguese  constable.  He 


248          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

simply  shrugged  his  shoulders,  wrote  down  the 
charge,  and  said  that  the  prisoner  must  be  taken  to 
the  Head  Police  Office  for  the  night.  He  added 
that,  there  being  no  charge  against  me,  I  was  not 
concerned  in  the  matter,  and  could  go  home. 

However,  as  my  unfortunate  friend  required  me 
as  interpreter,  I  had  no  intention  of  abandoning 
him,  and  accompanied  him  when  he  was  marched 
off  to  durance  vile.  The  Portuguese  policeman  at 
first  wished  to  send  him  under  the  charge  of  the 
Chinese  constable,  whom  he  woke  up  for  the  pur- 
pose ;  but  we  explained  that  if  such  an  indignity 
were  offered  us  we  would  certainly  refuse  to  go 
quietly  with  the  Chinaman  and  might  damage  him 
on  the  way.  He  then  allowed  the  Indian  sepoys, 
who  were  very  civil,  to  escort  us.  My  luckless 
companion  was  then  solemnly  marched  through  the 
town  until  the  Head  Police  Office  was  reached, 
over  two  miles  away.  It  was  a  rambling  structure 
in  the  heart  of  the  city,  with  ancient  buildings  and 
tree-shaded  courts.  Down  long  corridors  and  across 
a  grass-grown  yard  we  were  led  into  a  large  office. 
A  half-open  door  in  a  partition  on  the  left  bore  the 
inscription,  "  Quarto  del  Sargento."  On  the  right, 
behind  a  large  screen,  a  number  of  Portuguese 
policemen  lay  asleep  on  beds.  The  sepoys  roused 
a  sergeant,  who  sat  up  grumbling  and  surveyed 
us  with  little  friendliness.  The  scene  was  rather 
amusing.  My  friend  and  I  in  correct  evening  dress, 
as  haughtily  indignant  as  Britishers  should  be  under 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY   OF   MACAO    249 

such  circumstances,  the  Indian  sepoys  standing  erect 
behind  us,  the  surly  complainant,  whom  the  light 
of  the  office  lamps  revealed  to  be  a  very  shoddy 
and  common  individual,  the  half-awakened  police- 
men gazing  sleepily  at  us  from  their  beds,  would 
have  made  a  capital  tableau  in  a  comedy.  The 
sergeant  rose  and  put  on  his  uniform.  Seating 
himself  at  a  table  in  the  office  he  read  the  charge. 
Without  further  ado  he  ordered  a  bed  to  be  brought 
down  and  placed  for  the  prisoner  in  the  empty 
"  Quarto  del  Sargento."  He  then  rose  from  the 
table  and  prepared  to  retire.  I  stopped  him  and 
demanded  that  our  explanation  should  be  listened 
to.  I  told  him,  through  the  interpreters,  that  if  the 
ridiculous  charge  against  my  friend  was  to  be  pro- 
ceeded with,  he  could  be  found  at  the  hotel.  There 
was  no  necessity  for  confining  him  for  the  night, 
as  he  could  not  leave  Macao  without  the  knowledge 
of  the  authorities.  The  sergeant  curtly  replied  that 
as  there  was  no  complaint  against  me  I  had  better 
quit  the  police-station  as  soon  as  possible.  If  I 
wished  to  give  evidence  for  my  friend,  I  could 
attend  at  the  magistrate's  court  in  the  morning 
and  do  so.  I  informed  him  that  I  was  an  officer 
in  the  British  Army,  and  demanded  to  see  a  Portu- 
guese officer.  He  replied  that  he  was  a  sergeant, 
and  quite  officer  enough  for  me.  His  manner 
throughout  was  excessively  overbearing  and  offen- 
sive. I  then  threatened  to  appeal  to  the  British 
Consul.  I  am  afraid  that  this  only  amused  the 


250          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Portuguese  policemen,  who  had  left  their  beds  to 
come  into  the  office  and  listen  to  the  affair.  They 
laughed  amusedly;  and  the  sergeant,  smiling  grimly, 
bade  the  interpreting  sepoy  tell  me  that  he  did  not 
care  a  snap  of  his  fingers  for  our  Consul.  I  then 
played  my  trump  card.  I  demanded  that  a  message 
should  be  immediately  conveyed  to  the  aide-de- 
camp of  the  Governor,  to  the  effect  that  one  of 
his  English  friends  with  whom  he  had  dined  the 
previous  night  had  been  arrested.  The  effect  was 
electrical.  As  soon  as  my  speech  had  been  trans- 
lated to  them,  all  the  Portuguese  policemen  became 
at  once  extremely  civil.  The  sergeant  rushed  to 
a  telephone  and  rang  up  the  police  officer  on  duty. 
I  caught  the  words  "ufficiales  Inglesos"  and 
"  amigos  del  Senhor  Carvalhaes."  After  a  long 
conversation  over  the  wire  he  returned  smiling 
civilly,  saluted,  and  said  that  my  companion  could 
leave  the  station  at  once.  Would  he  have  the 
supreme  kindness  to  attend  at  the  magistrate's  court 
at  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning?  If  he  did  not  know 
where  it  was,  a  constable  would  be  sent  to  the  hotel 
to  guide  him. 

We  marched  out  with  the  honours  of  war.  With 
profuse  courtesy  we  were  escorted  out  of  the  police- 
station,  a  sentry  shouldering  arms  to  us  as  we 
passed ;  and  the  sergeant  accompanied  us  to  the 
outer  gate,  where  he  parted  from  us  with  an 
elaborate  salute. 

We  reached  the  hotel  about  3.30  a.m.     Before 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY   OF   MACAO    251 

nine  o'clock  I  presented  myself  at  the  palace,  where 
I  interviewed  Senhor  Carvalhaes  and  recounted 
the  whole  affair  to  him.  He  was  indignant  at  the 
conduct  of  the  police.  He  told  me  that  we  need 
not  attend  the  court,  as  he  would  settle  the  matter 
himself.  Later  on  my  friend  and  I  saw  the  British 
Consul,  whom  we  knew  personally,  and  told  him 
all  that  had  happened.  He  said  that  he  could  not 
have  helped  us  in  the  least  had  we  appealed  to 
him.  Some  time  previous  an  English  colonel,  in 
company  with  several  ladies,  had  been  arrested  by 
the  police  for  not  removing  his  hat  when  a  religious 
procession  passed.  As  this  officer  happened  to  be 
a  Roman  Catholic,  his  action  was  not  meant  to 
be  disrespectful.  He  was  not  released  until  the 
British  Consul  had  interviewed  the  Governor.  By 
a  curious  coincidence  I  met  this  colonel  some  months 
later  in  Seoul,  the  capital  of  Corea. 

That  afternoon  Grant- Smith  and  I  were  invited 
to  the  Portuguese  Naval  Tennis  Club  ground 
near  Flora,  the  Governor's  summer  residence. 
Carvalhaes,  who  was  present,  came  to  me  and 
told  me  that  the  affair  was  settled.  The  trumpery 
charge  had  been  dismissed ;  and  the  Indian  con- 
stable who  had  arrested  Grant-Smith  had  been 
punished  with  six  weeks'  imprisonment.  As  the 
unfortunate  sepoy  had  only  done  what  he  con- 
sidered his  duty  and  had  been  very  civil  throughout, 
as  well  as  helping  me  considerably  by  interpreting, 
I  begged  that  the  punishment  should  be  transferred 


252  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

from  him  to  the  discourteous  Portuguese  sergeant. 
On  my  representations  the  Indian  was  released;  but 
I  doubt  if  the  man  of  the  dominant  caste  received 
even  a  reprimand. 

Our  adventure  was  now  common  property.  We 
were  freely  chaffed  about  the  arrest  by  the  Portu- 
guese officers  and  the  British  residents  present  at 
the  Tennis  Club.  The  wife  of  the  Governor  laugh- 
ingly bade  one  of  the  English  ladies  bring  up  the 
"prisoner"  and  present  him  to  her. 

When  one  reflects  that  this  quaint  and  old-world 
little  Portuguese  colony  is  only  forty  miles  from 
Hong  Kong  with  its  large  garrison,  our  treatment 
by  its  insolent  subordinate  officials  does  not  say 
much  for  the  respect  for  England's  might  which  we 
imagine  is  felt  throughout  the  world. 

I  had  another  experience  of  an  arrest  in  Japan. 
The  spy  mania  is  rife  in  that  country;  and  no  photo- 
graphing is  permitted  in  the  fortified  seaports  or  in 
large  tracts  of  country  ''reserved  for  military  pur- 
poses." In  the  important  naval  station  of  Yuko- 
suka,  an  hour's  journey  by  train  from  Yokohama, 
an  American  gentleman  and  I  were  taken  into 
custody  by  a  policeman  for  merely  carrying  a 
camera  which,  knowing  the  regulations,  we  had 
been  careful  not  to  use.  We  found  afterwards  that 
our  ricksha  coolies  had  given  information.  I  was 
fortunately  able  to  speak  Japanese  sufficiently  well 
to  explain  to  our  captor  that  we  had  no  intention  of 
taking  surreptitious  photographs  of  the  warships  in 


PORTUGUESE   COLONY   OF   MACAO    253 

the  harbour.  I  pointed  out  that  as  most  of  these 
vessels  had  been  built  in  England  it  was  hardly 
necessary  for  a  Britisher  to  come  to  Japan  to  get 
information  about  them.  Our  little  policeman — 
with  the  ready  capacity  of  his  countrymen  for  see- 
ing the  feeblest  joke — was  immensely  tickled.  He 
laughed  heartily  and  released  us.  But  shortly  after- 
wards an  Italian  officer,  on  his  way  to  attend  the 
Japanese  military  manoeuvres,  innocently  took  some 
photographs  of  the  scenery  near  Shimoneseki.  He 
was  promptly  arrested  and  subsequently  fined  forty 
yen  (£4)  for  the  offence.  A  few  days  later  an 
Englishman  at  Moji  was  taken  into  custody  for  the 
same  crime.  Moral :  do  not  carry  a  camera  in 
Japan ;  content  yourself  with  the  excellent  and 
cheap  photographs  to  be  obtained  everywhere  in 
that  country  of  delightful  scenery. 

To  return  to  Macao.  Its  greatly  advertised 
attraction  is  the  famous  Chinese  gambling-houses, 
from  the  taxes  on  which  is  derived  a  large  portion 
of  the  revenues  of  the  colony.  Most  visitors  go  to 
see  them  and  stake  a  dollar  or  two  on  the  fan-tan 
tables.  I  did  likewise  and  was  disappointed  to  find 
the  famed  saloons  merely  small  Chinese  houses,  the 
interiors  glittering  with  tawdry  gilt  wood  carving 
and  blazing  at  night  with  evil-smelling  oil  lamps. 
On  the  ground  floor  stands  a  large  table,  at  the 
head  of  which  sits  the  croupier,  generally  a  very 
bored-looking  old  Chinaman.  Along  the  sides  are 
the  players,  who  occasionally  lose  the  phlegmatic 


254          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

calm  of  their  race  in  their  excitement.  On  the 
"board"  squares  are  described,  numbered  i,  2,  3, 
and  4.  On  them  the  money  is  staked.  The  croupier 
places  a  handful  of  "cash,"  which  are  small  coins, 
on  the  table  and  covers  them  with  an  inverted 
bowl.  The  number  of  them  is  not  counted,  as  he 
takes  them  at  random  from  a  pile  beside  him.  As 
soon  as  all  the  stakes  are  laid  down,  he  lifts  the 
bowl  and  with  a  chopstick  counts  the  coins  in  fours. 
The  number  left  at  the  end,  which  must  be  one, 
two,  three,  or  four,  represents  the  winning  number. 
The  bank  pays  three  times  the  stake  deposited,  less 
ten  per  cent.,  which  is  kept  as  its  own  share  of  the 
winnings.  In  a  gallery  overhead  sit  European 
visitors  and  more  important  Chinamen  who  do  not 
wish  to  mix  with  the  common  herd  around  the  table. 
Their  stakes  are  collected  by  an  attendant  who 
lowers  them  in  a  bag  at  the  end  of  a  long  string, 
and  the  croupier  places  them  where  desired.  Fan- 
tan  is  not  exciting.  The  counting  of  the  coins  is 
tedious  and  the  calculations  of  the  amounts  to  be 
paid  out  to  the  winners  takes  so  long  that  the  game 
becomes  exceedingly  wearisome. 

Other  attractions  of  Macao  are  the  ruins  of  the 
old  cathedral  of  San  Paulo,  built  in  1602  and  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1835,  of  which  the  fagade  still 
remains  in  good  preservation ;  and  the  Gardens  of 
Camoens,  with  a  bust  of  the  famous  Portuguese 
poet  placed  in  a  picturesque  grotto  formed  by  a 
group  of  huge  boulders.  Camoens  visited  Macao, 


PORTUGUESE  COLONY  OF  MACAO  255 

after  voyaging  to  Goa  and  the  East  by  way  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

In  the  basements  of  some  of  the  older  houses  in 
Macao  are  the  Barracoons,  relics  of  the  coolie 
traffic  suppressed  in  1874.  They  are  large  chambers 
where  the  coolies,  to  be  shipped  as  labourers  to 
foreign  parts,  were  lodged  while  awaiting  exporta- 
tion. Among  other  points  of  interest  near  the  city 
is  the  curious  natural  phenomenon  known  as  the 
Ringing  Rocks.  They  are  reached  by  boat  to 
Lappa.  They  consist  of  a  number  of  huge  granite 
boulders,  supposed  to  be  of  some  metallic  forma- 
tion, picturesquely  grouped  together,  which,  when 
struck,  give  out  a  clear  bell-like  note,  which  dies 
away  in  gradually  fainter  vibrations.  Altogether 
Macao  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  contrast 
between  the  sleepy  old-world  city,  which  looks  like 
a  town  in  Southern  Europe,  and  bustling,  thriving 
Hong  Kong,  all  that  is  modern  and  business-like, 
is  very  striking.  For  the  moneymaker  the  English 
colony  ;  for  the  dreamer  Macao. 


CHAPTER    XI 
A   GLIMPSE   OF   CANTON 

CANTON  is,  to  foreigners,  probably  the  best- 
known  and  most  frequently  visited  city  of 
China.  Its  proximity  to,  and  ready  accessibility 
from  Hong  Kong,  whence  it  is  easily  reached  by 
a  line  of  large  river  steamers,  renders  it  a  favourite 
place  with  travellers  to  the  East  to  spend  a  portion 
of  the  time  the  mailboats  usually  stop  in  the  English 
harbour.  A  small  colony  of  Europeans,  consuls 
and  merchants  of  several  nationalities,  reside  in  its 
foreign  settlement.  Its  considerable  trade  and  its 
occupation  by  the  Allies  after  the  war  of  1856-7 
directed  much  attention  to  it.  Owing  to  its  easy 
access,  no  other  city  in  the  Chinese  Empire  has 
been  so  frequently  described  by  European  writers. 
Rudyard  Kipling,  in  his  fascinating  "  From  Sea  to 
Sea/'  paints  a  marvellous  word-picture  of  the  life 
in  its  crowded  streets.  But  it  is  so  bound  up  with 
the  interests  of  Hong  Kong,  its  constant  menace 
to  our  colony,  and  the  suspected  designs  of  French 
aggression,  that  still  something  new  may  be  said 
about  it.  Despite  its  constant  trade  intercourse 
with  Europeans,  Canton  remains  anti-foreign.  Its 
inhabitants  have  not  forgotten  or  forgiven  its 

256 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  257 

capture  and  occupation  by  the  English  and  French 
in  the  past.  After  the  Boxer  movement  in  the 
North  in  1900,  many  fears  were  entertained  in 
Hong  Kong  lest  a  still  more  formidable  out- 
break against  foreigners  in  the  South  might  be 
inaugurated  by  the  turbulent  population  of  the 
restless  city.  The  Europeans  in  Canton  sent  their 
families  in  haste  to  Hong  Kong  and  Macao; 
wealthy  Chinamen  transferred  their  money  to  the 
banks  in  the  former  place ;  gunboats  were  hurried 
up;  and  the  garrison  of  our  island  colony  stood  ready. 
The  history  of  Canton's  intercourse  with  for- 
eigners dates  as  far  back  as  the  eighth  century. 
Two  hundred  years  later  it  was  visited  by  Arab 
traders,  who  were  instrumental  in  introducing 
Mohammedanism,  which  still  remains  alive  in  the 
city.  In  1517  Emmanuel,  King  of  Portugal,  sent 
an  ambassador  with  a  fleet  of  eight  ships  to  Pekin  ; 
and  the  Chinese  Emperor  sanctioned  the  opening 
of  trade  relations  with  Canton.  The  English  were 
much  later  in  the  field.  In  1596,  during  the  reign 
of  Elizabeth,  our  first  attempt  to  establish  inter- 
course with  China  ended  disastrously,  as  the  two 
ships  despatched  were  lost  on  the  outward  voyage. 
The  first  English  vessel  to  reach  Canton  arrived 
there  in  1634.  In  the  light  of  the  present  state  of 
affairs  in  the  East,  it  is  curious  to  note  that  an 
English  ship  which  visited  China  in  1673  was  subse- 
quently refused  admittance  to  Japan.  In  1615  the 
city  was  captured  by  the  Tartars. 


258          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

About  half  a  century  later  the  famous  East  India 
Company  established  itself  under  the  walls  of 
Canton,  and  from  there  controlled  the  foreign  trade 
for  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty  years.  After  much 
vexatious  interference  by  the  native  authorities,  the 
influence  of  the  Company  was  abolished  early  in 
the  nineteenth  century.  The  conduct  of  the  Chinese 
Government  as  regards  our  commerce  led  to  our 
declaring  war  in  1839.  In  1841  a  force  under  Sir 
Hugh  (afterwards  Lord)  Gough  surrounded  Canton 
and  prepared  to  capture  it.  But  negotiations  were 
opened  by  the  Chinese,  which  ended  in  their  being 
allowed  to  ransom  the  city  by  the  payment  of  the 
large  sum  of  six  million  dollars.  The  war  was 
transferred  farther  north  and  ended  with  the  Nan- 
king Treaty  of  August,  1842,  which  threw  open  to 
foreign  trade  the  ports  of  Shanghai,  Ning-po, 
Foochow,  and  Amoy.  It  was  further  stipulated 
that  foreigners  were  to  be  permitted  to  enter  the 
city  of  Canton.  This  provision,  however,  the 
Chinese  refused  to  carry  out.  More  vexatious 
quarrels  and  an  insult  to  the  British  flag  by  the 
seizure  of  a  Chinaman  on  the  Arrow,  a  small  vessel 
sailing  under  our  colours,  led  to  a  fresh  war  in  1856. 
The  outbreak  of  hostilities  was  followed  by  the 
pillaging  and  destruction  of  the  "  factories  "  of  the 
foreign  merchants  in  Canton  by  an  infuriated  mob 
in  the  December  of  that  year.  In  1857  the  city 
was  taken  by  storm  by  a  force  under  Sir  Charles 
Straubenzee.  For  four  years  afterwards  it  was 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  259 

occupied  by  an  English  and  French  garrison.  The 
affairs  of  the  city  were  administered  by  three  allied 
commissioners — two  English  and  one  French  officer 
— under  the  British  General.  They  held  their  court 
in  the  Tartar  General's  Yamen,  part  of  which  is  still 
used  by  the  English  Consul  for  official  receptions. 
Since  the  allied  garrison  was  withdrawn  Canton  has 
been  freely  open  to  foreigners. 

On  the  conclusion  of  peace  it  was  necessary  to 
find  a  settlement  for  the  European  merchants  whose 
factories  had  been  destroyed.  It  was  determined  to 
fill  in  and  appropriate  an  extensive  mud-flat  lying 
near  the  north  bank  of  the  river  and  south-west  of 
the  city.  This  site  having  been  leased,  was  con- 
verted into  an  artificial  island  by  building  a  massive 
embankment  of  granite  and  constructing  a  canal, 
100  feet  wide,  between  the  northern  face  and  the 
adjacent  Chinese  suburb.  The  ground  thus  re- 
claimed measures  about  950  yards  in  length  and 
320  yards  broad  in  its  widest  part.  It  is  in  shape 
an  irregular  oval,  and  is  called  Shameen,  or,  more 
proper,  Sha-mien,  i.e.  sand-flats.  The  island  is 
divided  into  the  English  and  the  French  Conces- 
sions. On  it  the  consulates  and  the  residences  of 
the  foreign  merchants  are  built.  The  canal  is 
crossed  by  two  bridges,  called  respectively  the 
English  and  the  French,  which  can  be  closed  by 
gates.  They  are  guarded  by  the  Settlement  police. 
The  cost  of  making  the  island  amounted  to  325,000 
dollars  (Mex.);  of  which  the  English  Government 


260          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

paid  four-fifths  and  the  French  one-fifth.  At  first 
foreigners  hesitated  to  occupy  it ;  but  after  the 
British  Consulate  was  erected  in  1865,  our  mer- 
chants began  to  build  upon  it  with  more  confidence. 

The  journey  from  Hong  Kong  to  Canton  is  very 
comfortably  performed  on  the  commodious  shallow- 
draught  steamers  that  ply  between  the  two  cities. 
I  left  the  island  one  afternoon  with  a  party  of 
friends.  The  scenery  along  the  rugged  coast  and 
among  the  hilly  islands  to  the  flat  delta  at  the 
mouth  of  the  estuary  with  its  countless  creeks,  still 
haunted  by  pirates,  is  charming.  As  we  steamed 
up  the  river  we  could  see,  moving  apparently  among 
the  fields,  the  huge  sails  of  junks  which  in  reality 
were  sailing  on  the  canals  that  intersect  the  country. 
After  dinner  I  sat  on  deck  with  a  very  charming 
companion  and  watched  the  shadowy  banks  gliding 
past  in  the  moonlight.  Turning  in  for  the  night 
in  a  comfortable  cabin,  I  slept  until  eight  o'clock 
next  morning,  and  awoke  to  find  the  steamer  along- 
side the  river  bank  at  Canton. 

The  scene  from  the  deck  was  animated  and 
picturesque.  On  one  side  lay  the  crowded  houses 
and  grim  old  walls  of  the  city.  The  wharves  were 
thronged  with  bustling  crowds.  On  the  other, 
beyond  the  island  suburb  of  Honam,  the  country 
stretched  away  in  cultivation  to  low  hills  in  the 
distance.  The  river  was  thronged  with  countless 
covered  boats  ;  for  the  floating  population  of  Canton 
amounts  to  about  a  quarter  of  a  million  souls,  and 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  261 

the  crowded  sampans  lying  in  a  dense  mass  on 
the  water  form  a  separate  town  from  the  city  on 
the  land.  It  is  almost  self-containing  and  its  in- 
habitants ply  every  imaginable  trade.  Peddlers  of 
food,  vegetables,  fruit,  pots,  pans,  and  wares  of  all 
kinds  paddled  their  boats  along  and  shouted  their 
stock-in-trade.  Here  and  there  a  sampan  was 
being  extricated  with  difficulty  from  the  closely 
packed  mass,  its  crew  earning  voluble  curses  from 
their  neighbours  as  they  disentangled  their  craft 
and  shot  out  into  the  stream. 

I  gazed  over  the  steamer's  side  at  the  crowded 
wharf.  Chinese  or  half-caste  Portuguese  Customs 
officers  rapidly  scanned  the  baggage  of  the  pig-tailed 
passengers  as  they  landed,  now  and  then  stopping 
one  and  making  him  open  the  bundles  he  carried. 
Opium-smuggling  is  the  chief  thing  they  guard 
against,  for  Hong  Kong  is  a  free  port. 

The  city  of  Canton  lies  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Pearl  River,  about  seventy  or  eighty  miles  from  the 
sea.  It  is  surrounded  by  an  irregular  masonry  wall, 
twenty-five  feet  high,  twenty  feet  thick,  and  six 
or  seven  miles  in  circumference.  This  fortification 
is  by  no  means  as  strong  as  the  famous  Wall  of  the 
Tartar  city  in  Pekin  and  could  be  easily  breached 
by  the  fire  of  heavy  guns.  Good  artillery  positions 
are  to  be  found  all  round.  A  few  miles  north  of 
the  city  lie  hills  rising  1,200  feet  above  the  river. 
As  the  southern  wall  is  only  a  few  hundred  yards 
from  the  bank,  it  could  be  destroyed  and  the  city 


262  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

bombarded  without  difficulty  by  gunboats,  some  of 
which — English,  French,  and  German — are  nearly 
always  lying  off  Shameen.  The  Chinese,  however, 
are  reported  to  be  quietly  erecting  modern,  well- 
armed  forts  around  the  city ;  but  were  a  powerful 
flotilla  once  anchored  opposite  it,  it  would  be 
doomed. 

Canton  is  divided  into  the  old  and  the  new  city. 
The  latter,  the  southern  enclosure,  was  added  in 
1568,  extending  the  ramparts  almost  to  the  river 
bank.  The  wall  of  the  older  portion  still  divides 
the  two  as  in  Pekin.  On  the  north  this  wall  rises 
to  include  a  hill.  On  the  other  three  sides  Canton 
is  surrounded  by  a  ditch,  which  is  filled  by  the  rising 
tide.  There  are  twelve  outer  gates  and  four  in  the 
partition  wall.  Two  water-gates  admit  boats  along 
a  canal  which  pierces  the  new  city  east  and  west. 
The  gates  are  closed  at  night ;  and  in  the  daytime 
soldiers  are  stationed  near  them  to  preserve  order. 
As  the  policing  of  the  city  is  very  bad,  the  in- 
habitants of  streets  and  wards  frequently  join  in 
maintaining  guards  for  the  protection  of  their  re- 
spective quarters. 

The  old  city,  which  is  very  much  the  larger  of  the 
two,  contains  most  of  the  important  buildings.  In 
it  are  the  yamens  of  the  Viceroy,  the  Major- General, 
the  Treasurer,  the  Chancellor,  the  Tartar  General 
and  Major-General,  and  of  the  British  Consul,  as 
well  as  the  prisons,  the  Examination  Hall,  the 
pagodas,  and  the  numerous  temples,  of  which  there 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  263 

are  over  120  in  or  about  Canton.  The  streets 
number  over  600  in  both  cities. 

In  the  new  town  facing  the  river  is  the  French 
Missions  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  a  beautiful 
building  of  the  perpendicular  Gothic  style  of  archi- 
tecture with  lofty  spires.  It  is  embellished  with 
magnificent  stained-glass  windows  and  polished 
teak- wood  carvings.  It  is  built  on  the  site  of  the 
old  residence  of  the  Governor-General,  destroyed 
during  the  bombardment  by  the  Allies. 

On  the  south,  west,  and  east  sides  of  the  city 
and  across  the  river  on  Honam  Island,  suburbs 
have  sprung  up,  and  including  them  it  has  a  circum- 
ference of  nearly  ten  miles.  The  houses  stretch  for 
four  miles  along  the  river ;  and  the  banks  of  boats 
extend  for  four  or  five  miles.  Out  in  the  stream 
may  often  be  seen  huge  junks  600  to  1,000  tons 
burden,  which  trade  with  the  North  and  the  Straits 
Settlements. 

In  1874  the  population  of  Canton  was  1,500,000, 
including  the  floating  town  of  230,000,  and  the  in- 
habitants of  Honam  100,000.  The  number  has 
probably  largely  increased. 

Going  ashore  we  installed  ourselves  in  long-poled 
open  chairs,  borne  by  energetic  coolies.  As  they 
went  along  rapidly  at  a  shambling  half-trot,  they 
shouted  loudly  to  the  lounging  crowds  to  clear  the 
way.  Into  the  network  of  narrow  streets  in  the 
city  we  plunged.  The  houses  are  different  to  those 
in  Pekin.  They  are  generally  of  more  than  one 


264          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

story,  well  built  of  brick,  with  thick  walls  and  veran- 
dahs along  the  fronts  of  the  upper  floors.  The 
shops  have  little  frontage,  but  extend  far  back. 
The  streets,  paved  with  stone  or  brick,  are  dark- 
ened by  overhead  reed  matting,  supported  by 
wooden  frames,  which  stretch  across  them  to  shade 
them  from  the  sun.  So  narrow  are  even  the  prin- 
cipal thoroughfares  that  two  chairs  can  hardly  pass 
each  other.  With  much  shouting  and  sing-song 
abuse  the  coolies  carrying  one  are  forced  to  back 
into  the  nearest  shop  and  let  the  other  go  by.  The 
vistas  along  these  narrow,  shaded  streets,  with  their 
long,  hanging,  gilt-lettered  sign-boards — red,  white, 
or  black — are  full  of  quaint  charm.  The  busy 
crowds  of  Chinese  foot  passengers  hurry  silently 
along,  their  felt-soled  shoes  making  no  sound  on 
the  pavement.  Contrary  to  what  I  had  always 
heard  of  them,  the  Canton  populace  struck  me  as 
not  being  so  insolent  or  hostile  to  Europeans  as 
they  are  reputed.  As  our  chairs  moved  along,  the 
bearers  thrusting  the  crowds  aside  with  scant  cere- 
mony, very  little  notice  was  taken  of  us.  A  few 
remarks  were  made  by  the  bystanders,  which  one 
of  our  party,  who  spoke  Cantonese,  told  me  were 
anything  but  complimentary.  But  all  that  day 
throughout  the  city  I  found  the  demeanour  of  the 
people  much  less  offensive  than  a  Chinaman  in  the 
lower  quarters  of  London  would. 

The  shops  were  filled  with  articles  of  European 
manufacture.    Clocks,  cloth,  oleographs,  lamps,  kero- 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  265 

sene  oil  tins,  even  sewing-machines  were  for  sale. 
Eating-houses,  tea  shops,  stalls  covered  with  the 
usual  weird  forms  of  food,  raw  or  cooked,  abounded. 
The  Chinaman  has  a  catholic  taste.  Horseflesh, 
dogs,  cats,  hawks,  owls,  sharks'  fins,  and  birds'  nests 
are  freely  sold  in  Canton  for  human  consumption. 
Carpenters  were  busy  making  the  substantial  furni- 
ture to  be  found  in  almost  every  Chinese  house. 
Blacksmiths  and  coppersmiths  added  the  noises  of 
their  trades  to  the  din  that  resounded  through  the 
narrow  streets.  Peddlers  with  their  wares  spread 
about  them  on  the  ground  helped  to  choke  the  con- 
gested thoroughfares.  Beggars  shouted  loudly  for 
alms  and  drew  the  attention  of  the  passers-by  to 
their  disgusting  sores  and  deformities. 

Canton  is  famous  for  its  ivory  carvers  and  the 
artists  in  the  beautiful  feather  work,  the  making  of 
which  seems  to  be  confined  to  this  city.  As  I 
wished  to  purchase  some  specimens  of  this  unique 
art,  our  party  stopped  at  an  establishment  famed 
for  its  production.  The  shop  was  lofty  but  dark. 
The  owner  came  forward  to  receive  us,  and  spread 
on  the  counter  a  large  selection  of  ornaments  for 
our  inspection.  Trinkets  of  all  kinds,  lace -pins, 
pendants,  brooches  were  exhibited,  all  evidently 
made  for  European  purchasers.  The  designs  were 
very  pretty.  Large  butterflies  shone  with  the  re- 
flected lights  and  golden  lustre  of  the  beautiful 
green  and  blue  plumage  of  the  kingfisher.  Tiny 
fishes  delicately  fashioned,  birds  of  paradise,  flowers 


266          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

were  all  reproduced  in  flimsy  gold  or  silver  work. 
Learning  that  I  was  anxious  to  see  the  process  of 
the  manufacture,  the  proprietor  led  me  over  to 
watch  one  of  the  workmen  who  sat  around  busily 
employed.  On  a  metal  ground-work  with  raised 
edges  and  lines  the  feathers  are  fastened  to  repro- 
duce the  colours  of  the  designs.  With  nimble 
fingers  and  delicate  pincers  the  tiny  strips  of  plum- 
age are  laid  on  and  cemented.  Keen  sight  is 
required  for  the  work ;  and  the  proprietor  told  me 
that  the  eyes  of  the  workmen  engaged  in  it  soon 
fail.  It  takes  five  years  for  an  apprentice  to 
thoroughly  learn  the  art ;  and  after  he  has  laboured 
at  it  for  two  years  more  his  vision  becomes  so  ob- 
scured that  he  has  to  give  it  up  and  seek  some 
other  occupation.  It  is  little  wonder  ;  for  the  shops 
in  these  narrow,  shaded  streets  are  always  dark, 
and  the  artificial  light  generally  used  is  furnished 
only  by  the  cheapest  European  lamps.  The  prices 
of  the  various  articles  are  very  moderate,  when  one 
considers  the  delicacy  and  beauty  of  the  work. 
Butterflies  an  inch  across  can  be  purchased  for  two 
or  three  dollars. 

Our  next  visit  was  paid  to  the  workers  in  ivory. 
Here,  in  a  similarly  dark  shop,  men  were  employed 
in  carving  most  exquisitely  delicate  flowers,  scenes, 
and  figures.  Brushes,  mirror-frames,  fans,  glove- 
stretchers,  penholders,  card-cases,  and  boxes  of  all 
sizes  were  being  fashioned  and  adorned.  I  was  par- 
ticularly interested  in  the  making  of  those  curious 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  267 

Chinese  puzzle  -  balls,  which  contain  one  within 
another  a  dozen  or  more  spheres,  all  down  to  the 
innermost  one  covered  with  beautiful  carvings  which 
can  be  seen  through  the  round  holes  pierced  in  the 
sides.  The  owner  of  the  shop  showed  me  an 
apprentice  learning  how  to  make  them  and  prac- 
tising on  an  old  billiard  ball.  Holes  are  drilled 
down  to  the  depth  which  will  be  the  circumference 
of  the  second  outermost  ball.  A  graving  tool, 
hooked  like  a  hoe,  is  introduced  into  them  and 
worked  round  until  there  is  a  complete  solid  sphere 
detached  inside.  It  is  then  carved  in  designs,  every 
part  being  reached  by  turning  the  ball  round  until 
each  portion  of  the  surface  has  come  opposite  one 
of  the  holes  through  which  the  carving  instrument 
can  reach  it.  Then  a  similar  process  is  gone 
through  at  a  greater  depth  from  the  outside,  which 
gives  the  third  outermost  sphere ;  and  so  on  until 
the  innermost  ball  is  reached,  which  is  carved  and 
left  solid.  There  are  sometimes  as  many  as  twenty- 
four  of  these  graduated  spheres.  To  one  who  has 
never  seen  how  they  are  made  it  seems  impossible 
to  understand  how  these  balls  within  balls  are 
carved.  Sections  of  elephants'  tusks  lay  about  in 
the  shop  to  prove  to  the  customers  that  only  real 
ivory  is  employed ;  but  bone  is  often  used  in  the 
making  of  cheaper  articles. 

In  this  trade,  too,  good  sight  is  necessary;  and 
the  proprietor  of  this  establishment  told  me  that  the 
eyes  of  his  workmen  soon  give  out.  Here,  again, 


268          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

the  bad  light  was  responsible.  In  Kioto,  in  Japan, 
I  have  watched  men  engaged  in  damascene  or  inlay 
work  in  dingy  attics  lighted  only  by  small,  smoky 
oil  lamps,  and  was  not  surprised  to  learn  that  their 
sight  did  not  last  long. 

We  next  inspected  some  embroidery  shops,  where 
specimens  of  wonderful  work,  both  new  and  old, 
were  to  be  seen.  The  latter  come  chiefly  from  the 
numerous  pawnshops,  the  tall  towers  of  which  rise 
everywhere  throughout  the  city  ;  for  they  receive 
annually  large  quantities  of  old  garments,  sold  by 
members  of  ancient  but  impoverished  families  who 
are  forced  to  part  with  the  wardrobes  that  have 
come  down  to  them  through  many  generations. 
Magnificent  mandarins'  ,  state  costumes  may  be 
obtained  for  from  forty  to  eighty  or  a  hundred 
dollars.  Some  of  the  embroidery  is  undoubtedly 
antique  and  valuable ;  but  a  good  deal  of  it  sold 
as  old  consists  of  new  and  inferior  substitutions  and 
even  of  European -manufactured  imitations  of  the 
real  article.  This  the  white  man  in  his  innocence 
buys  and  goes  on  his  way  rejoicing,  until  some 
connoisseur  among  his  female  friends  points  out  his 
error  and  leaves  him  abashed  at  his  own  ignorance. 

Porcelain,  jade,  blackwood  furniture,  silk,  bronze, 
and  curio  shops  abound  in  the  city.  The  contrast 
between  the  energetic,  business-like  tradesmen  of 
Canton,  always  ready  to  cater  for  the  European 
market,  and  the  phlegmatic  shopkeepers  of  Pekin 
is  very  marked. 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  269 

We  now  visited  the  Flowery  Forest  Monastery 
or  Temple  of  the  Five  Hundred  Genii,  which  is 
said  to  have  been  founded  in  A.D.  500,  and  which 
was  rebuilt  some  forty  years  ago.  It  stands  out- 
side the  western  wall  of  the  city.  It  comprises 
many  buildings  and  courts  ;  but  the  most  interesting 
portion  is  the  hall,  which  contains  the  images  of  the 
five  hundred  disciples  of  Buddha.  The  statues  are 
life-size.  Their  countenances  are  supposed  to  re- 
present the  supreme  content  of  Nirvana ;  but  their 
weird  and  grotesque  expressions  and  the  air  of 
jollity  and  devil-may-careness  on  some  of  them  is 
unintentionally  ludicrous.  Among  the  images  is 
one  said  to  represent  Marco  Polo,  one  of  the 
earliest  pioneers  of  discovery  in  the  East.  No  one 
knows  why  the  celebrated  Italian  traveller  is  in- 
cluded among  the  immortals. 

A  more  interesting  sight  was  the  prison  in  the 
old  city.  On  a  stone  outside  the  open  gate  sat 
a  criminal  weighted  down  with  the  cangue,  a  heavy 
board  fastened  round  the  neck.  It  prevents  the 
luckless  wearer  from  using  his  hands  to  feed  him- 
self or  brush  away  the  tormenting  swarms  of  flies 
which  settle  on  his  face.  He  cannot  reach  his 
mouth,  and  must  starve  unless  a  relative  or  some 
charitable  person  can  be  found  to  give  him  food. 
As  the  cangue  is  never  removed  night  or  day  he 
cannot  lie  down,  but  is  forced  to  sit  on  the  ground 
and  prop  himself  against  a  wall  and  snatch  what 
sleep  he  can  in  that  uncomfortable  and  constrained 


270          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

position.  I  must  say  that  this  particular  gentleman 
seemed  very  indifferent  to  his  wooden  collar.  He 
was  chatting  pleasantly  with  some  passers-by  in  the 
street  and  turned  his  head  to  survey  us  with  mild 
curiosity.  The  cangue,  by  the  way,  is  only  a  minor 
penalty  used  for  thieves,  petty  larcenists,  and  such 
small  fry.  For  the  punishment  of  graver  crimes 
much  more  elaborate  tortures  have  been  reserved. 
As  we  passed  into  the  prison  we  saw  a  few  offenders 
chained  to  iron  bars  in  the  outer  court.  A  Chinese 
warder  unlocked  a  gate  leading  into  a  small  yard 
crowded  with  prisoners,  who  rushed  towards  us 
and  insolently  demanded  alms  ;  for  the  Government 
waste  no  money  in  feeding  their  criminals  who  are 
obliged  to  rely  on  the  kindness  of  the  charitable. 
One  particularly  cheeky  youth  —  a  pickpocket,  I 
was  told — coolly  demanded  the  cigar  I  was  smoking. 
When  I  gave  it  to  him  he  put  it  in  his  mouth  and 
strutted  up  and  down  the  yard  to  the  amusement 
of  his  companions  in  misfortune.  His  gratitude 
was  not  overpowering,  for  he  uttered  some  remarks, 
which  my  Cantonese-speaking  friend  told  me  were 
particularly  insulting.  As  the  prisoners  became  very 
troublesome  in  their  noisy  demands,  the  warder 
pushed  them  back  into  the  yard  and  shut  the  gate, 
having  to  rap  some  of  them  over  the  knuckles  with 
his  keys  before  he  could  do  so.  There  were  no 
especial  horrors  to  be  seen.  The  prisoners  seemed 
cheerful  enough  ;  and  none  of  the  awful  misery  I  had 
always  associated  with  Chinese  jails  was  apparent. 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  271 

But  when  the  Celestial  authorities  wish  to  punish 
an  offender  severely  they  have  a  varied  and  in- 
genious collection  of  tortures  on  hand.  The  ling- 
cki,  or  death  of  a  thousand  cuts,  is  hardly  to  be 
surpassed  for  fiendish  cruelty.  The  unfortunate 
criminal  is  turned  over  to  the  executioner,  who 
stabs  him  everywhere  with  a  sharp  sword,  carefully 
avoiding  a  vital  spot.  Then  he  cuts  off  fingers, 
toes,  hands,  feet,  arms,  and  legs  in  succession,  and 
finally  severs  the  head,  if  the  unhappy  wretch 
has  not  already  expired.  If  the  doomed  man  is 
possessed  of  money  he  can  bribe  the  executioner 
to  kill  him  at  the  first  blow ;  and  the  subsequent 
mutilations  are  performed  only  on  a  lifeless  corpse. 
Another  ingenious  device  is  to  place  the  criminal 
naked  in  a  net  and  trice  it  up  tightly  around  him, 
until  his  flesh  bulges  out  through  the  meshes. 
Then,  wherever  it  protrudes  the  executioner  slices 
it  off  with  a  sharp  knife.  The  unhappy  wretch  is 
taken  back  to  prison,  released  from  the  net  and 
thrown  into  a  cell.  No  attempt  is  made  to  staunch 
the  blood  or  salve  the  wounds  unless  death  is 
feared.  This  must  be  averted  ;  for  a  week  or  so 
later  he  has  to  be  brought  out  again  and  the 
process  repeated.  Along  the  river  bank  near  Can- 
ton criminals  were  exposed  in  cages,  through  the 
top  of  which  their  heads  protruded  in  such  a 
fashion  that  the  weight  of  the  body  was  supported 
only  by  the  chin  and  neck.  The  feet  did  not  touch 
the  bottom  of  the  cage,  but  a  sharp  spike  was 


272          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

placed  to  rest  them  on  when  the  strain  on  the  neck 
became  unendurable.  Here  the  poor  wretches 
were  left  to  expire  of  exhaustion  or  die  of  starva- 
tion. After  such  tortures  beheading  seems  a 
merciful  punishment. 

When  I  considered  the  Chinaman's  innate  love 
of  cruelty,  I  could  understand  why  the  next  spot 
we  visited  was  a  very  popular  place  of  worship 
and  a  favourite  resort  for  all  the  loafers  of  the  city. 
It  was  the  Temple  of  Horrors.  Along  each  side 
of  the  principal  court  ran  sheds,  divided  by  parti- 
tions. In  them  behind  wooden  palings  was  a 
weird  collection  of  groups  of  figures  modelled  to 
represent  the  various  punishments  of  the  Buddhist 
hell.  The  sheds  were  dark  and  it  was  difficult  to 
see  the  interiors  plainly.  But  quite  enough  was 
visible.  In  one  compartment  a  couple  of  horrible 
devils  were  sawing  a  condemned  wretch  in  two. 
In  another,  demons  were  thrusting  a  man  into  a 
huge  boiler.  Judging  from  the  agonised  expres- 
sion on  his  face,  the  water  must  have  been  uncom- 
fortably warm.  In  a  third,  the  condemned  soul  or 
body  was  being  ground  in  a  press.  Others  were 
being  roasted  before  huge  fires,  stuck  all  over  with 
knives,  having  their  eyes  gouged  out,  being  torn 
limb  from  limb.  I  fancy  that  the  artist  who  de- 
signed these  groups  could  have  commanded  a  large 
salary  as  Inventor  of  Tortures  from  the  Chinese 
authorities  of  his  day. 

Another  place   of   interest   is   the   Examination 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  273 

Hall,  where  every  three  years  candidates  from  all 
parts  of  China  assemble  to  compete  for  Govern- 
ment appointments.  Young  men  and  old,  boys  of 
eighteen  and  dotards  of  eighty,  attend,  eager  to 
grasp  the  lowest  rung  of  the  official  ladder  which 
may  lead  them,  though  with  soiled  hands,  to  rank 
and  wealth.  The  coveted  buttons  which  mark  the 
various  grades  of  mandarin  are  here  dangled  before 
their  eyes. 

When  one  reflects  that  success  in  these  competi- 
tions will  lead  to  posts,  not  only  as  magistrates,  but 
also  as  officers  in  the  army,  as  officials  of  modern- 
equipped  arsenals,  of  departments  of  customs  and 
telegraphs,  or  to  positions  which  will  bring  them 
into  contact  with  foreigners,  one  naturally  thinks 
that  the  previous  course  of  studies  of  the  candidates 
will  have  fitted  them  for  such  appointments.  Far 
from  it.  At  the  examinations  a  single  text  from 
Confucius  or  some  other  ancient  author  is  set  as  a 
subject  for  a  lengthy  essay.  For  twenty-four  hours 
or  longer  the  candidates  are  shut  up  in  their  cells 
to  expand  upon  it.  The  examiners  then  read  the 
result  of  their  labours  and  recommend  them  on 
their  proficiency  in  composition  and  acquaintance 
with  the  ancient  classics  of  China.  Even  an 
English  university  curriculum  is  better  fitted  to 
equip  a  student  for  success  in  the  world. 

The  Examination  Hall  consists  of  rows  of  closely- 
packed  lanes  of  small  brick  cells  (about  12,000  in 
number)  running  at  right  angles  off  a  long  paved 


274          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

causeway,  which  is  approached  through  an  archway 
called  the  Dragon  Gate.  At  the  far  end  of  this 
causeway  are  apartments  for  the  examiners — twelve 
in  number,  two  chiefs  and  ten  juniors — who  have 
been  sent  from  Pekin.  Quarters  are  also  provided 
for  the  Viceroy  and  the  Governor  of  the  province, 
who  are  both  obliged  to  be  present  during  the 
examinations.  The  cells  in  which  the  candidates 
are  immured  are  6  feet  high,  5^-  feet  long,  and  less 
than  4  feet  broad,  and  open  only  on  to  the  narrow 
lanes  between  the  rows  of  sheds.  From  a  high 
tower  strict  watch  is  kept  to  prevent  any  collusion 
between  the  competitors. 

Tired  of  sight-seeing,  our  party  now  returned  to 
the  river  and  crossed  into  Shameen  by  the  small 
English  Bridge  spanning  the  canal  between  island 
and  shore.  A  good  lunch  at  the  pretty  little  hotel 
prepared  us  for  a  stroll  around  the  foreign  settle- 
ment. 

Shameen  is  now  a  pretty  island  with  fine  avenues 
of  banyan  trees,  charming  gardens,  a  row  of  excellent 
tennis-courts,  and  handsome,  well-built  houses,  the 
residences  of  the  foreign  consuls  and  merchants. 
A  tree-shaded  promenade  lined  the  southern  bank 
along  the  river.  Moored  to  the  shore  were  several 
English,  American,  French,  and  German  gunboats. 
Their  flags  and  the  European-looking  houses  made 
us  almost  forget  that  we  were  still  within  a  stone's- 
throw  of  a  large  Chinese  city.  But  the  swarms 
of  sampans,  the  curious  country-boats  moved  by 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  275 

stern -wheels  worked  by  men  on  a  treadmill -like 
contrivance,  the  banging  of  crackers  and  booming 
of  gongs  in  a  temple  behind  the  island  recalled  us 
to  the  remembrance.  We  walked  along  by  the 
river  bank,  crossed  the  canal  by  the  French  Bridge, 
and  returned  on  board  our  steamer. 

Canton,  with  its  acres  of  crowded  houses,  its  old 
walls,  and  ancient  shrines,  is  a  curious  contrast  to 
modern,  up-to-date  Hong  Kong.  Yet  each  in  its 
way  is  equally  alive  and  humming  with  busy  trade, 
for  the  Chinese  city  exports  and  imports  largely. 
It  is  the  channel  through  which  the  commerce  of 
Europe  flows  in  and  the  products  of  China  find  their 
way  out  to  the  foreign  markets.  It  manufactures 
largely  glassware,  pottery,  metal  work,  paper,  black- 
wood  furniture,  preserved  ginger,  medicine,  etc.  It 
is  the  granary  and  supply  depot  of  Hong  Kong. 
The  Cantonese  merchants  are  keen  business  men 
and  cater  largely  for  the  European  customer.  Nearly 
all  the  native  silver  work,  embroidery,  silks,  and 
curios  in  the  large  shops  of  our  colony  come  from 
Canton. 

The  focus  of  trade  with  Southern  China,  the  pro- 
posed terminus  of  the  railway  to  Kowloon,  the 
food-supplier  of  Hong  Kong,  its  development  and 
retention  in  Chinese  hands  is  of  vast  importance  to 
English  commerce.  The  French  are  freely  credited 
with  designs  upon  it.  Their  determined  efforts  to 
firmly  establish  their  own  influence  there  and  dis- 
place the  British  favour  the  suspicion.  In  their  Con- 


276          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

cession  on  Shameen  they  have  established,  without 
the  consent  of  China,  their  own  post  office,  where 
they  use  their  colonial  stamps  surcharged  "  Canton." 
Their  gunboats  anchor  where  they  like  in  the  river, 
the  commanders  calmly  ignoring  the  efforts  of  the 
Chinese  officials  to  restrict  them  to  the  part  allotted 
to  foreign  warships.  On  the  occurrence  of  any  out- 
rages on  their  subjects  or  the  converts  of  their 
missionaries,  the  French  consuls  act  with  energy  and 
determination.  When  any  such  happen  in  the 
vicinity  of  Canton  or  up  the  West  River,  not  content 
with  complaints  or  remonstrances  to  the  Chinese 
authorities,  which  usually  have  little  effect,  they 
insist  on  immediate  redress.  They  generally  ac- 
company in  person  the  official  deputed  to  proceed 
to  the  scene  of  the  outrage  and  investigate  the 
affair.  This  energetic  conduct  is  in  marked  contrast 
to  the  supineness  of  some  of  our  consuls.  A  late 
British  representative  aroused  much  disgust  among 
naval  and  military  officers  and  our  merchants  by  his 
want  of  resolution  and  his  tender  regard  for  Chinese 
susceptibilities.  When  one  of  our  gunboats  was 
fired  on  up  the  river,  its  commander  immediately 
reported  the  matter  to  him.  Our  official  feebly 
remonstrated  with  the  authorities,  and  instructed 
the  commander  to  return  with  his  ship  to  the 
village  near  the  scene  of  the  outrage  and  fire  off  a 
Maxim  into  the  river-bank !  This  was  to  show 
the  misguided  peasantry  of  what  the  gunboat  was 
capable,  if  action  were  necessary.  As  the  Orientals 


A  GLIMPSE   OF  CANTON  277 

respect  only  those  who  can  use  as  well  as  show  their 
power,  the  Chinese  are  not  much  impressed  with  us. 
The  contrast  between  our  forbearance  and  the  deter- 
mined conduct  of  the  French  is  too  marked.  Their 
gunboats  patrol  the  rivers  and  show  the  flag  of  their 
country  everywhere.  Their  efforts  seem  directed 
towards  spreading  the  region  of  their  influence  in- 
land from  the  south  to  meet  the  Russian  sphere  in 
the  north.  This  is  to  cut  us  off  from  our  possessions 
in  Burma  and  prevent  any  British  railway  being 
constructed  from  that  country  to  the  eastern  coast 
of  China,  thus  tapping  the  hitherto  undeveloped 
resources  of  the  interior. 

An  attack  on  Canton  from  the  sea  would  be  a  far 
more  difficult  task  now  than  formerly.  The  Bogue 
forts  on  the  Pearl  River,  up  which  an  invading 
flotilla  must  force  its  way,  have  been  modernised 
and  re-armed  with  powerful  guns.  Hills  are  found 
within  easy  range  of  the  river,  from  which  the  gun- 
boats and  shallow -draught  vessels,  which  alone 
could  attempt  the  passage,  could  be  shelled  at  a 
range  precluding  any  response  from  their  feebler 
weapons.  And  the  Chinese  gunners  are  not  all  to 
be  despised,  as  Admiral  Seymour's  column  and  the 
gallant  defenders  of  Tientsin  found  to  their  cost. 

The  land  approach  would  not  be  much  easier. 
The  country  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  inter- 
sected by  creeks  and  canals.  Even  farther  up,  no 
roads  are  available  for  wheeled  transport.  An  ad- 
vance from  the  British  territory  of  the  Kowloon 


278          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

Hinterland  would  probably  be  preferable  to  a  land- 
ing on  the  coast,  though  the  route  is  longer.  The 
hills  beyond  Samchun  might  prove  a  formidable 
barrier ;  but  those  once  passed  the  difficulties  would 
not  be  insuperable.  The  inhabitants  of  the  southern 
provinces  are  not  warlike ;  and  the  troops  there 
have  not  been  reorganised  and  disciplined  like 
some  in  the  north. 


CHAPTER   XII 
CHINA— PAST,    PRESENT,    FUTURE 

E  OK  ING  upon  the  map  of  China  to-day,  Eng- 
land might  well  say  with  Clive,  "  I  stand 
amazed  at  my  own  moderation."  If  thirty  years  ago 
she  had  seized  upon  the  whole  of  that  vast  empire, 
no  other  Power  in  the  world  would  have  dared  to 
say  her  nay.  She  was  undisputed  mistress  of  the 
Eastern  seas.  Russia  had  not  then  reached  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific  and  her  hands  were  busily 
employed  in  the  centre  of  Asia.  Germany  had 
only  just  become  a  nation,  and  had  not  yet  dreamt 
of  contending  with  England  for  the  commerce  of 
the  world.  France  lay  crushed  beneath  the  weight 
of  an  overwhelming  defeat ;  and  her  voice  was  un- 
heard in  the  councils  of  the  nations.  The  United 
States  of  America  had  no  thought  of  realms  beyond 
the  sea ;  their  fleet  was  small,  and  the  markets  of 
Asia  held  no  temptation  for  their  merchants. 
Japan  was  but  a  name.  The  Meiji,  the  eventful 
revolution  that  freed  her  from  the  iron  fetters  of 
hide-bound  ignorance,  was  scarcely  ten  years  old ; 
and  even  its  authors  scarce  dared  to  hope  that  their 
little  islands  would  one  day  rank  high  among  the 
civilised  Powers  of  the  world. 

279 


28o          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

And  China  itself,  that  unwieldy  Colossus,  lay 
a  helpless  prey  to  any  strong  nation  that  placed 
aggrandisement  before  the  claims  of  abstract  justice. 
The  prize  was  tempting.  An  immense  empire  that 
stretched  from  the  snows  of  the  North  to  the  burn- 
ing heats  of  the  torrid  zone ;  a  land  of  incredible 
fertility,  of  vast  mineral  wealth,  the  value  of  which 
can  even  now  be  only  vaguely  guessed  at ;  a  teem- 
ing population  of  industrious  and  easily-contented 
millions ;  an  enormous  seaboard  with  natural  har- 
bours that  could  shelter  the  navies  of  the  world; 
navigable  rivers  that  pierced  to  the  heart  of  the 
land  and  offered  themselves  as  veritable  highways 
of  commerce ;  all  the  riches  that  the  earth  could 
bear  on  its  surface  or  hide  in  its  bosom — what  a 
guerdon  to  the  victor ! 

The  conquest  of  China  might  daunt  the  faint- 
hearted from  the  apparent  immensity  of  the  task ; 
but  few  countries  would  have  proved  an  easier 
prize.  Her  army  was  composed  of  a  heterogeneous 
collection  of  ill-armed  militia,  whose  weapons  were 
more  frequently  the  spear  and  the  bow  than  the 
modern  rifle.  The  Chinaman  is,  by  nature,  a  lover 
of  peace.  War  he  abhors  ;  and  the  profession  of  a 
soldier,  honoured  among  other  races,  is  held  by  him 
in  utter  contempt.  Unpaid,  uncared  for,  ill-treated, 
and  despised,  the  troops  had  to  be  driven  to  battle 
and  could  not  withstand  a  determined  attack.  And 
behind  them  was  no  high-spirited  nation  ready  to 
risk  all  in  the  defence  of  the  motherland.  Patriot- 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE      281 

ism  is  unknown.  The  love  of  country,  so  strong  in 
other  peoples,  is  non-existent  in  the  heart  of  the 
average  Chinaman.  With  aught  beyond  the  limits 
of  his  village,  he  has  no  concern^  No  other  race 
in  the  world  can  boast  so  deep  a  love  of  family. 
To  save  his  relatives  from  poverty,  the  Celestial 
will  go  willingly  to  his  death.  According  to  their 
laws  a  criminal  cannot  be  slain  unless  he  has  con- 
fessed his  crime.  To  wring  this  confession  from 
him,  tortures  inconceivable  in  their  fiendish  malig- 
nity are  heaped  upon  him.  A  speedy  death  would 
be  a  boon.  But  to  acknowledge  his  guilt  and  die 
by  the  hands  of  the  public  executioner  would  en- 
tail the  forfeiture  of  all  his  property  to  the  State, 
and  his  family  would  be  beggared.  So,  grimly  un- 
complaining, he  submits  for  their  sake  to  agonies 
that  no  white  man  could  endure.  A  rich  man  con- 
demned to  death  can  generally  purchase  a  substi- 
tute, can  find  a  poverty-stricken  wretch  willing  to 
die  in  his  stead  for  a  sum  of  money  that  will  place 
his  starving  relatives  in  comparative  affluence. 

All  this  the  poor  Chinaman  will  do  for  those  he 
loves.  How  many  white  men  would  do  the  same  ? 
But  why  should  he  die  for  his  country  ?  he  asks. 
Why  sacrifice  himself  and  those  near  and  dear  to 
him  for  the  honour  of  a  shadowy  Emperor?  Why 
should  he  lay  down  his  life  that  the  officials  who 
oppress  the  poor  and  wrest  his  hard-earned  money 
from  him  may  flourish  unmolested  ?  He  is  told  that 
the  Japanese,  yellow  men  like  himself,  have  invaded 


282  THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

the  land  and  defeated  the  Imperial  troops.  Well, 
the  enemies  are  thousands  of  miles  away  from  him, 
and  the  soldiers  are  paid  to  fight.  What  is  it  to 
him  that  strangers  have  seized  upon  some  seaport, 
the  name  of  which  he  has  never  heard  before  ?  Let 
those  whom  it  concerns  go  out  and  fight  them.  His 
duty  is  to  stay  at  home  and  till  the  ground  that  his 
family  may  not  lack  food. 

A  few  of  the  more  enlightened  Chinamen  of  the 
upper  classes,  those  who  have  lived  abroad  in 
Europe  or  America,  in  Australia,  Hong  Kong,  and 
the  Straits  Settlements,  or  who  have  been  educated 
in  European  colleges,  may  be  inspired  with  the 
love  of  country  as  we  understand  it.  But  have  the 
leaders  of  the  nation,  the  nobles  and  the  mandarins, 
ever  been  ready  to  sacrifice  themselves  for  China  ? 
They  batten  on  its  misfortunes.  The  higher  in 
rank  they  are  the  readier  they  prove  themselves  to 
intrigue  with  its  enemies  and  sell  their  country  for 
foreign  gold.  They  drive  the  common  folk  to  battle 
and  stay  at  home  themselves.  The  generals  and 
the  officers,  with  few  exceptions,  are  never  found 
in  front  of  their  troops  in  action,  unless  when  a 
retirement  is  ordered.  Occasionally  isolated  cases 
occur  when  a  defeated  commander  commits  suicide. 
But  it  is  generally  because  he  prefers  an  easy  death 
by  his  own  hand  to  the  degradation  and  tortures 
that  await  the  vanquished  general. 

To  prate  of  the  patriotism  of  the  Chinese  is  as 
though  one  spoke  of  the  "patriotism  of  India." 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE      283 

Still,  the  latter  is  a  favourite  phrase  of  some  of  our 
ignorant  politicians  who  pose  as  the  champions  of 
"the  down-trodden  black  brother."  They  talk  of 
India  being  made  self-governing  and  wish  to  fill  its 
Civil  Service  with  "  enlightened  natives."  They  fail 
to  see  why  a  Calcutta  Babu  or  a  Bombay  Parsee, 
who  boasts  a  university  degree  and  has  passed  a 
brilliant  examination,  should  not  be  set  to  rule  over 
a  Punjaub  district  or  to  deal  with  the  unruly  Pathans 
on  the  frontier.  They  do  not  realise  that  English- 
men would  sooner  submit  to  be  governed  by  the 
knout  of  a  Russian  official  than  the  haughty  Sikh  or 
fierce  Pathan  would  endure  the  sway  of  men  they 
regard  as  lower  than  dogs.  Our  Indian  Empire  is 
composed  of  a  hundred  warring  nations,  all  different 
in  speech,  in  blood,  almost  in  religions.  We,  the 
dominant  race,  hold  them  all  in  the  Pax  Britannica, 
and  keep  them  from  each  other's  throats. 

In  like  manner  few  realise  that  China  is  not  a 
united  and  homogeneous  nation.  It  consists  of 
many  provinces,  the  inhabitants  of  which  belong 
practically  to  different  races  and  speak  in  different 
tongues.  They  have  little  intercourse  or  sympathy 
with  each  other.  Inter- village  wars  are  almost  as 
frequent  as  among  Pathans.  Rebellions  are  common 
occurrences.  The  Mohammedans  hold  themselves 
aloof  and  regard  the  other  Chinese  with  little  love. 
The  written  language  is  the  same  throughout  China; 
but  the  man  of  Canton  cannot  speak  with  the  in- 
habitant of  Pekin  or  the  coolie  from  Amoy.  Occa- 


284          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

sionally  the  curious  sight  may  be  seen  of  two 
Chinamen  from  different  provinces  holding  converse 
with  each  other  in  pidgin-English,  the  only  medium 
of  intercourse  intelligible  to  both. 

In  the  outbreak  of  1900  the  Boxers  and  the 
Pekinese  showed  themselves  almost  as  hostile  to 
the  Cantonese  trading  or  residing  in  the  north  as 
they  were  to  Europeans.  They  considered  that 
the  southern  city's  long  intercourse  with  the  white 
man  must  have  rendered  its  inhabitants  favourable 
to  foreigners ;  though,  indeed,  this  is  very  far  from 
the  truth. 

So  the  Chinaman  can  have  no  patriotism.  To 
any  but  the  most  enlightened — or  the  mandarins 
from  more  sordid  motives — it  is  a  matter  of  com- 
parative indifference  who  rules  the  Empire.  Pro- 
vided that  he  is  allowed  to  live  in  peace,  that  taxes 
do  not  weigh  upon  him  too  heavily  or  his  religion 
be  not  interfered  with,  the  peasant  cares  not  who 
reigns  in  Pekin.  Justice  he  does  not  ask  for ;  he 
is  too  unused  to  it.  All  that  he  demands  is  that 
he  be  not  too  utterly  ground  down  by  oppression. 
Patient  and  long-suffering,  he  revolts  only  against 
the  grossest  injustice.  Not  until  maddened  by 
famine  or  unable  to  wring  a  bare  living  from  the 
ground  does  he  rise  to  protest  against  the  unjust 
officials,  whose  exactions  have  kept  him  poor.  If 
he  once  realised  the  fairness  of  European  rule, 
he  would  live  content  under  any  banner,  happy 
in  being  allowed  to  exist  in  undisturbed  possession 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE      285 

of  the  fruit  of  his  toil.  The  Chinamen  in  our 
possessions  in  the  East  are  satisfied  and  happy 
under  the  mild  law  of  England.  Large  numbers 
of  them  make  their  home  there,  content  to  live 
and  die  under  a  foreign  government,  and  ask  only 
that  their  corpses  may  be  conveyed  back  to  China 
to  be  interred  in  its  sacred  soil. 

The  average  Celestial  in  his  own  land  feels  no 
pride  or  interest  in  the  glory  of  his  country.  In 
its  government  he  has  no  voice.  Of  its  history, 
its  achievements  in  the  past,  he  is  ignorant.  He 
is  content  with  it  because  it  is  the  only  one  he 
knows  and  so  must  be  the  best.  Of  other  lands 
beyond  its  confines  he  has  dimly  heard.  But  their 
inhabitants  are  mere  barbarians.  Those  of  them 
who  have  intruded  themselves  into  his  country  are 
uncivilised  according  to  his  standard.  They  worship 
false  gods ;  their  manners  are  laughable.  All  they 
do  is  at  variance  with  his  customs,  and  so  must 
be  wrong.  They  cannot  read  his  books  and  know 
nothing  of  the  maxims  of  Confucius.  So  they 
must  be  illiterate  as  well  as  irreligious.  Yet  these 
strange  beings  are  content  with  themselves,  and 
scorn  his  ways !  This  proves  their  ignorance  and 
their  conceit.  How  can  they  boast,  he  asks,  of  the 
superiority  of  their  own  countries  when  they  cannot 
stay  there  and,  in  face  of  contempt  and  hostility, 
seek  to  force  their  way  into  his  ?  And  as  their 
coming  means  interference  with  customs  hallowed 
by  age  and  the  uprooting  of  his  dearest  prejudices, 


286          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

he  resents  it.  They  strive  to  introduce  innovations 
which  he  can  very  well  do  without.  What  sufficed 
for  his  father  and  his  father's  father  is  good  enough 
for  him.  The  barbarians  come  only  to  disturb. 
They  wish  to  defile  the  graves  of  his  worshipped 
ancestors  by  constructing  railways  over  the  soil 
in  which  their  bones  rest.  The  shrieks  of  the 
chained  devils  in  their  engines  disturb  the  Feng 
Skui,  the  tutelary  deities  of  his  fields,  and  hence 
follow  drought  and  famine.  And  that  these 
accursed,  unneeded  iron  highways  may  be  con- 
structed, he  is  forced  to  sell  the  land  which  has 
been  in  the  possession  of  his  family  for  generations. 
The  price  for  it  passes  through  the  hands  of  the 
mandarins  and  officials,  and  so  but  little  reaches 
him.  Has  he  not  heard  that  to  secure  the  safety 
of  their  bridges  little  children  are  kidnapped  and 
buried  under  their  foundations  ?  Out  upon  the 
accursed  intruders !  China  has  flourished  through 
countless  ages  without  their  aid,  and  wants  them 
not. 

And  so,  in  a  measure,  hatred  of  foreigners  sup- 
plies the  place  of  patriotism.  It  binds  all  classes 
together.  The  ruling  clique  dread  them  for  the 
reforms  they  seek  to  introduce ;  for  these  would 
overthrow  the  frail  structure  of  oligarchical  govern- 
ment in  Pekin  and  hurl  the  privileged  class  from 
power.  The  mandarins  tremble  at  their  interference 
with  the  widespread  corruption  and  unjust  taxation 
on  which  the  officials  now  batten.  The  educated 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE      287 

hate  them  for  their  triumphs  over  China  in  the  past, 
their  continual  territorial  aggression,  and  their  con- 
stant menace  to  the  integrity  of  China.  The  fanatical 
hatred  of  the  white  man  exhibited  by  the  lower 
classes  is  the  result  of  the  blindest  ignorance.  It  is 
stirred  into  mad  rage  by  the  exhortations  of  the 
priests,  who  naturally  resent  with  true  clerical  bigotry 
the  introduction  of  other  creeds.  The  zealous  but 
too  often  misdirected  efforts  of  the  missionaries,  who 
tactlessly  trample  on  his  dearest  beliefs,  rouse  the 
Chinaman  to  excesses  against  the  strangers  who 
seem  to  have  intruded  themselves  upon  him  only  to 
insult  all  that  he  holds  most  sacred.  Every  mis- 
fortune, whether  it  be  drought  and  subsequent 
famine  or  devastating  floods,  storm  or  pestilence, 
is  ascribed  to  the  anger  of  the  gods,  irritated  at  the 
presence  of  the  unbelievers.  If  the  crops  fail  or 
small-pox  desolates  a  village,  the  eyes  of  the  frenzied 
peasants  turn  to  the  nearest  mission  house  where 
live  the  accursed  strangers  whose  false  teachings 
have  aroused  the  anger  of  the  immortals.  Urged 
on  by  the  priests  and  mandarins,  they  fall  upon  it 
and  slay  its  inmates.  But  retribution  comes  swiftly. 
Their  own  Government  are  forced  by  dread  of 
foreign  interference  to  punish  the  misguided  wretches 
who  have,  as  they  consider,  wreaked  only  a  just  re- 
venge. The  officials  are  degraded.  Heads  fall  and 
houses  are  razed  to  the  ground.  The  Imperial 
troops  quarter  themselves  on  the  luckless  villagers 
who  pay  dearly  in  blood  and  silver  for  the  harm 


288          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

they  have  wrought  in  their  madness.  And  a  sullen 
hatred  of  the  white  man  spreads  through  all  classes 
and  bears  bitter  fruit  in  subsequent  graver  out- 
breaks. 

Can  we  justly  blame  them  ?  Would  we  act 
differently  in  their  place  ?  What  if  the  cases  were 
reversed  ?  Suppose  England  to  be  a  weak  and 
backward  country  and  China  wealthy  and  power- 
ful, with  a  great  navy  and  a  large  army.  Her 
merchants  are  enterprising  and  seek  to  push  their 
trade  into  other  countries,  even  against  the  wish  of 
the  inhabitants.  Chinese  vessels  force  their  way  up 
the  Thames  and  sell  the  cargoes  they  carry  to  our 
merchants  in  defiance  of  the  laws  we  have  passed 
against  the  importation  of  foreign  commodities. 
Refusing  to  leave,  they  are  fired  upon.  Chinese 
missionaries  make  their  way  into  England  and 
preach  ancestor-worship  and  the  tenets  of  Buddha 
in  the  East  End  of  London.  The  scum  of  White- 
chapel  mob  them — as  the  Salvation  Army  has  often 
been  mobbed.  A  missionary  or  two  is  killed.  The 
Chinese  Government  seeks  revenge.  A  strong 
fleet  is  sent  to  bombard  the  towns  along  the  South 
Coast.  Bristol  is  seized.  A  demand  is  made  that 
the  Isle  of  Wight  should  be  ceded  in  reparation 
for  the  insult  to  the  Dragon  flag.  We  are  forced 
to  surrender  it.  A  Chinese  town  grows  up  on  it ; 
and  the  merchants  in  it  insist  that  their  goods 
should  have  the  preference  over  home-made  articles. 
The  Chinese  Government  demands  that  tea  from 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE      289 

the  Celestial  Kingdom  should  be  admitted  duty  free 
and  a  tax  put  upon  Indian  growths.  A  criminal  or 
an  anarchist,  fleeing  from  justice,  takes  refuge  on  a 
small  Chinese  ship,  which  is  boarded  and  the  fugi- 
tive seized.  We  are  only  an  ignorant  people,  and 
do  not  understand  the  Law  of  Nations.  We  are 
soon  instructed.  Again  China  sends  a  fleet ;  a 
force  is  landed  and  Liverpool  captured.  To  re- 
deem it  we  must  pay  a  large  ransom.  To  obtain 
peace  we  are  obliged  to  grant  the  Chinese  settle- 
ments in  Liverpool,  Bristol,  and  Southampton. 
This  inspires  other  Asiatic  Powers — Corea,  Kams- 
chatka,  and  Siam,  which  we  will  imagine  to  be  as 
progressive  and  powerful  as  our  supposititious  China 
— to  demand  equal  privileges  and  an  occasional 
slice  of  territory.  Kent,  Hampshire,  and  Norfolk 
pass  into  their  hands. 

Buddhist  and  Taoist  missionaries  now  flood  the 
land.  The  common  people  regard  them  with  fear 
and  hatred.  The  clergy  of  the  Church  of  England 
preach  against  them.  The  ignorant  peasantry  and 
the  lowest  classes  in  the  towns  at  last  rise  and  expel 
them.  A  few  of  them  are  killed  in  the  process. 
The  flame  spreads.  The  settlements  of  the  hated 
intruders  are  everywhere  assailed.  The  Asiatic 
Embassies  in  London  are  attacked  by  the  mob. 
Our  Government,  secretly  sympathising  with  the 
popular  feeling,  are  powerless  to  defend  them. 
Even  if  they  wished  to  do  so,  the  soldiers  would 
refuse  to  fire  on  the  rioters. 


290          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

Then  the  Allied  nations  of  Eastern  Asia  band 
together ;  a  great  army  invades  our  unhappy 
country.  A  dire  revenge  is  taken  for  the  out- 
rages on  the  missionaries  and  the  attacks  on  the 
Embassies.  Middlesex  is  laid  waste  with  fire  and 
sword ;  neither  age  nor  sex  is  spared.  The  brutal 
Kamschatkans  slay  the  children  and  violate  the 
women.  London  is  captured  and  looted.  The  flags 
of  China,  Corea,  Kamschatka,  and  Siam  fly  from 
the  roofs  of  Buckingham  Palace ;  Marlborough 
House  shelters  the  invaders ;  Windsor  Castle  is 
occupied  by  a  garrison  of  the  Allied  troops.  Flying 
columns  march  through  the  land,  pillaging  and 
burning  as  they  go ;  the  South  of  England  is 
occupied  by  the  enemy.  Before  the  Allied  nations 
evacuate  the  devastated  land  a  crushing  war 
indemnity  is  laid  upon  us. 

Would  we  love  the  yellow  strangers  then  ? 
True,  we  are  backward  and  unprogressive.  They 
are  civilised  and  enlightened  ;  and  even  against  our 
will  our  country  must  be  advanced.  Still,  I  fear 
that  we  should  be  ungrateful  enough  to  resent  their 
kind  efforts  to  improve  us  and  persist  in  regarding 
them  as  unwelcome  intruders. 

All  this  that  I  have  imagined  as  befalling 
England  has  happened  to  China.  For  similar 
causes  Canton  was  bombarded  and  captured.  The 
treaty  ports  were  forced  to  welcome  foreign  trade. 
Hong  Kong,  Tonkin,  Kiau-chau,  Port  Arthur,  all 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE      291 

have  been  torn  from  China.  Fire  and  sword  have 
laid  waste  the  province  of  Chi-li.  Death  to  the 
men  and  disgrace  to  the  women  have  been  un- 
sparingly dealt.  Can  we  wonder  that  the  Chinese 
do  not  love  the  foreigner  ? 

Our  missionaries  go  forth  to  earn  the  crown  of 
martyrdom.  But  if  they  gain  it  their  societies 
demand  vengeance  in  blood  and  coin  from  the 
murderers.  The  Gospel  of  Love  becomes  the 
Doctrine  of  Revenge.  "Forgive  your  enemies!" 
O  ye  saintly  missionaries  who  are  so  shocked  at  the 
ungodly  lives  of  your  sinful  fellow-countrymen  in 
foreign  lands,  will  you  not  practise  what  you 
preach  ?  Think  of  the  divine  precept  of  the  Master 
you  profess  to  serve  and  pardon  the  blind  rage 
of  the  ignorant  heathen ! 

So  much  for  the  China  of  the  present.  What  of 
the  future  ?  She  is  now  fettered  by  the  shackles 
of  blind  ignorance,  by  the  prejudices  and  retrogres- 
sive spirit  of  the  tyrannical  Manchu  oligarchy  who 
rule  the  land.  Her  strength  is  sapped  by  the  poison 
of  corruption.  The  officials,  almost  to  a  man,  are 
mercenary  and  self-seeking.  Extortion  and  dis- 
honesty are  found  in  every  class.  Suppose  a  tax 
is  laid  upon  a  certain  province.  The  Viceroy  orders 
the  mandarins  to  collect  it  from  their  districts. 
They  send  forth  their  myrmidons  to  wring  it  from 
the  people,  by  threats  and  torture  if  need  be. 
Enough  must  be  raised  to  satisfy  the  many  vultures 


THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

through  whose  claws  it  will  pass  before  it  reaches 
Pekin.  Twice,  three  times  the  amount  of  the  sum 
asked  for  originally  must  be  gathered  from  the 
unfortunate  taxpayers,  in  order  that  each  official 
through  whose  hands  it  goes  on  its  way  to  the 
Imperial  Treasury  may  have  his  share  of  the  spoil. 
And  how  is  all  the  money  raised  in  the  vast  Empire 
spent?  Not  on  the  needs  of  the  land,  certainly. 
Few  roads  or  bridges  exist.  They  have  mostly 
been  constructed  by  charity.  The  railways — and 
there  are  not  many — were  built  by  foreign  capital. 

Is  there  no  hope  for  China  ?  Must  she  remain 
for  ever  the  spoil  of  the  strong  ?  Or  will  she  one 
day  recognise  the  secret  of  her  weakness,  reform 
and  become  a  power  too  formidable  to  be  lightly 
offended  ?  She  has  an  example  always  before  her 
eyes.  Forty  years  ago  Japan  was  as  ignorant  and 
prejudiced.  Foreigners  were  hated  ;  the  country  was 
closed  to  them.  The  Mikado  was  then  as  power- 
less as  the  Emperor  of  China  is  now.  The  spear 
and  the  sword  were  the  weapons  which  the  soldiers 
of  Japan  opposed  to  the  cannons  and  rifles  of  the 
Europeans.  Foreign  fleets  bombarded  the  coast- 
towns  and  wrung  concessions  from  the  rulers  of  the 
helpless  land.  The  country  was  divided  between 
powerful  chieftains  of  warlike  clans. 

Yet  at  one  stroke  of  a  magic  wand  all  was 
changed.  Japan  now  ranks  among  the  Great 
Powers  of  the  world.  Her  army  commands  respect 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE      293 

and  fear ;  on  war-footing  it  numbers  over  half  a 
million — and  the  Japanese  have  always  been  gallant 
soldiers.  Her  navy  is  as  modern  and  well-equipped 
as  any  afloat.  The  resources  of  the  country  have 
been  developed.  A  network  of  railways  covers  the 
land ;  telegraphs  and  telephones  link  the  important 
towns.  Her  manufacturers  compete  with  Europe  in 
every  market  in  Asia.  Her  merchant  ships  are  all 
but  built  in  her  own  dockyards.  The  fleets  of  her 
steamship  companies,  such  as  the  Nippon  Yusen 
Kaisha,  would  not  discredit  Liverpool  or  New 
York.  Lines  of  splendid  passenger  steamers,  some 
of  them  over  6,000  tons,  run  to  Europe,  America, 
and  Australia.  Smaller  lines  keep  up  communica- 
tion between  Japan  and  the  coasts  of  Siberia, 
Corea,  and  China.  Education  is  widespread ;  uni- 
versities and  schools  abound.  Manufactures  are 
encouraged  by  a  liberal  policy.  The  forest  of 
factory  chimneys  in  Osaka  gives  that  town  the 
semblance  of  Birmingham  as  one  approaches  it  in 
the  train.  The  water-power  universal  throughout 
the  islands  is  utilised  freely.  Electric  light  is  found 
in  almost  every  city  in  the  empire.  It  is  installed 
in  even  the  smaller  private  houses.  Automatic 
public  telephone  kiosks  dot  the  streets  of  the 
capital.  In  provincial  towns  like  Nagoya  electric 
trams  run. 

All  that  Japan  has  become,  China  may  yet  be. 
Nay,  more.     The  former  is  poor,  her  territory  small, 


294          THE   LAND   OF  THE   BOXERS 

the  greater  part  of  the  country  encumbered  with 
unprofitable  mountains.  The  undeveloped  wealth 
of  the  latter  is  enormous.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  iron, 
and  coal  are  all  found.  Vast  stretches  of  forest 
cover  the  interior.  The  soil  is  incredibly  fertile ; 
and  her  people  are  naturally  intelligent.  The 
Chinese  in  Hong  .Kong  and  elsewhere,  as  mer- 
chants, as  shipowners,  as  professional  men,  prove 
it.  The  schools  and  colleges  of  our  island  colony 
are  filled  with  the  clever,  almond-eyed  students. 
In  the  Straits  Settlements,  as  in  Hong  Kong,  they 
compete  with  the  Europeans  in  commerce  and  vie 
with  them  in  wealth.  All  that  he  is  in  other 
countries  the  Chinaman  can  become  in  his  own 
under  the  liberal  rule  of  an  enlightened  Govern- 
ment. The  foreigners  who  trade  with  the  Chinese 
say  that  the  latter  are  far  more  trustworthy  in 
business  than  many  a  white  man.  The  Chinese 
merchant's  word  is  his  bond.  The  Japanese  are 
not  so  reliable ;  and  their  artisans  are  by  no  means 
as  industrious  as  their  Celestial  neighbours.  The 
latter,  under  no  compulsion,  will  toil  day  and  night 
to  complete  some  work  by  the  time  they  have 
agreed  to  finish  it. 

The  Chinese  soldier  is  regarded  with  universal 
contempt.  His  achievements  in  the  past,  when 
pitted  against  European  troops,  have  not  exalted 
his  name.  But  in  1900  he  first  showed  what  splen- 
did material  he  is.  With  the  passive  courage  of 
fatalism,  incomprehensible  to  more  highly  strung 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE     295 

races,  the  Chinaman  will  face  death  without  a 
struggle.  When  roused  by  fanaticism  he  will  fight 
blindly  to  the  end ;  but  in  cold  blood  he  has  no 
ambition  for  military  glory.  When  led  to  battle 
for  a  cause  of  which  he  knows  or  cares  nothing,  he 
is  ready  to  save  his  life  by  a  timely  flight  with  no 
feelings  of  shame  or  self-reproach.  He  has  never 
been  taught  otherwise.  In  China  moral  suasion  or 
deceit  are  looked  upon  as  more  glorious  weapons 
than  sword  or  gun. 

But  if  he  were  well  disciplined  and  led  to  under- 
stand the  meaning  of  esprit  de  corps>  well  treated 
and  well  led,  he  would  prove  no  contemptible 
soldier.  The  Boxers  who  with  knives  and  spears 
charged  up  to  within  fifty  yards  of  Seymour's  well- 
armed  men  and  faced  the  withering  fire  of  magazine 
rifles  with  frenzied  courage ;  the  Imperial  troops 
who  harassed  his  brave  column  day  and  night ; 
the  students  who  fought  their  guns  to  the  last 
when  the  Tientsin  Military  College  was  taken  by 
the  Allies — were  these  cowards  ? 

What  the  Chinaman  can  be  made  to  do  with 
proper  leading  may  be  seen  in  the  behaviour  of  our 
Chinese  Regiment,  little  more  than  a  year  raised,  all 
through  the  campaign  of  1900.  When  the  British, 
American,  and  Russian  stormers  had  captured  the 
Peiyang  Arsenal,  on  June  27th,  an  attempt  to  cut 
them  off  from  Tientsin  was  made  by  a  large  body 
of  Imperial  troops  and  Boxers  who  tried  to  get 
between  them  and  the  river,  across  which  they  had 


296          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

to  pass  on  their  return.  Lieutenant-Colonel  Bower, 
intrepid  explorer  and  gallant  soldier,  led  out  his 
Chinese  Regiment  and  drove  off  the  enemy.  The 
conduct  of  the  men  under  fire  was  excellent. 

It  is  absurd  to  suppose  that  the  Chinaman  cannot 
learn  the  art  of  modern  warfare.  The  example  of 
the  Imperial  troops  who  attacked  Seymour  and 
besieged  Tientsin  amply  proves  this  statement. 
They  took  advantage  of  cover  with  cleverness 
and  knowledge.  They  used  their  magazine  rifles 
with  accuracy  and  effect.  Their  gunners  were  ex- 
cellently trained.  Their  shooting  was  so  good  that 
at  first  it  was  falsely  supposed  that  the  guns  were 
served  by  renegade  Europeans.  The  arms  with 
which  they  were  equipped  were  excellent.  The 
troops  were  well  supplied  with  quick-firing  Krupps 
and  magazine  rifles.  That  they  could  use  these 
weapons  was  proved  by  the  heavy  losses  among 
the  Allied  sailors  and  soldiers  in  the  early  part  of 
the  campaign. 

The  Chinese  offered  so  little  resistance  to  the 
Allies  on  the  march  to  Pekin,  the  war  collapsed  so 
suddenly  on  the  fall  of  the  capital,  that  scant  justice 
has  been  done  to  the  courage  displayed  on  both 
sides  during  the  heavy  fighting  with  Seymour's 
column  and  around  Tientsin.  The  losses  among 
the  Europeans  show  how  desperate  it  was.  Admiral 
Seymour's  column,  out  of  less  than  2,000  men, 
lost  295  killed  and  wounded  in  sixteen  days.  The 
casualties  among  the  British  contingent  of  900  blue- 


CHINA— PAST,  PRESENT,  FUTURE     297 

jackets  and  marines,  amounted  to  27  killed  and  97 
wounded.  The  Americans  out  of  120  men  lost  4 
killed  and  25  wounded.  The  stormers  of  the  Taku 
forts  also  lost  heavily. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  attack  on  the  Peiyang 
Arsenal  by  the  Russians,  they  lost  over  200  men 
and  had  to  send  for  help  to  the  Americans  and  the 
British. 

In  the  Boxer  night  attack  on  Tientsin  railway 
station  in  July,  the  British,  French,  and  Japanese 
defending  it  had  150  casualties. 

Out  of  a  total  of  5,000  men  engaged  in  the 
taking  of  Tientsin  native  city  on  July  I3th  and 
1 4th,  the  Allies  lost  nearly  800  men. 

The  Egyptian  fellah  was  once  considered  to  be 
utterly  hopeless  as  a  fighting- man.  But  British 
officers  nursed  him,  strengthened  his  moral  fibre, 
and  then  led  him  into  battle.  Witness  his  behaviour 
at  the  Atbara  and  at  Omdurman.  The  army  that 
the  genius  of  Lord  Kitchener  had  moulded  so  skil- 
fully proved  invincible ;  and  the  fellah  did  his  fair 
share  of  the  fighting. 

The  Chinaman  in  natural  courage,  in  physique, 
and  in  stamina  is  far  superior  to  the  Egyptian. 
Why  should  he  not  become  a  more  formidable 
fighting-man  ?  Think  what  the  Celestial  Empire 
could  do  if  its  soldiers  were  properly  armed,  trained, 
and  led ;  if  the  spirit  of  self-respect  were  instilled 
into  them  and  their  natural  passive  courage  fanned 
into  active  bravery !  Think  of  a  warlike  army 

V  2 


298          THE   LAND  OF  THE   BOXERS 

recruited  from  a  population  of  400,000,000 ;  and  at 
its  back  a  reformed  China,  its  resources  developed, 
its  immense  wealth  properly  utilised,  its  people  free 
and  filled  with  patriotic  pride ! 

What  Japan  has  accomplished,  China,  once  her 
leader  and  her  conqueror,  may  yet  achieve.  And 
signs  of  the  Great  Awakening  are  at  hand  ! 


INDEX 


Aberdeen,  181 

Admiral  Ho,  201,  214,  215 

Admiral  Seymour  at  the  siege  of 
Tientsin,  24 ;  his  advance  on 
Pekin,  30 

Affleck-Scott,  Mr.,  216 

Ah  Ting,  Naval  Dairy  Farm,  4 

Alarm  in  Hong  Kong,  204 

Alarm  in  Macao,  242 

Allied  Armies,  men  and  methods 
of,  34 

Allied  Commissioners  in  Canton, 
259 

Allied  Fleet  at  Taku,  8 

American  Army,  Continental  criti- 
cism, 51 ;  excellence  of  the  men, 
51 ;  elastic  discipline,  51 ;  cour- 
age of,  52 ;  gallantry  at  Tientsin, 
53 ;  comradeship  with  British 
troops,  53  ;  contempt  for  Con- 
tinentals, 53  ;  discomfiture  of 
British  subaltern,  54 

Army,  American,  50;  Chinese  in 
the  past,  280 ;  of  the  future, 
298  ;  Dutch,  54  ;  French,  42  ; 
German,  34 ;  Indian,  55 ;  Japan- 
ese, 47 ;  Russian,  44 ;  Italian,  54 

Arrest,  in  Japan,  252  ;  in  Macao, 
246 ;  of  an  English  colonel  in 
Macao,  251 

Arrow,  incident  of  the,  258 

Astor  House  Hotel,  Tientsin,  22 

Barracoons  in  Macao,  255 
Barrett,  Lieut,  Hong  Kong  Regi- 
ment, 199 


Bathing  parties  in  Hong  Kong, 
191 

Bayly,  Captain,  R.N.,  gallantry  at 
Tientsin,  45 

Belcher's  Fort,  176 

Belgian  Legation  in  Pekin,  78,  80 

Bella  Vista,  Macao,  240 

Bengal  Lancers,  ist,  59 

Bersagliere,  54,  176 

Bikanir,  H.H.  the  Maharajah  of, 
1 80 

Black  Flags,  204 

Boa  Vista  Hotel,  238 

Boer  Campaign,  lessons  of,  34 ; 
foreign  ignorance  respecting,  41 

Bogue  Forts,  277 

Bombay  Light  Cavalry,  3rd,  60  ; 
a  sowar's  opinion  of  the  Rus- 
sians, 164 

Bombay  Infantry,  22nd,  200,  204, 
208,  229 

Bombay  Pioneers,  28th,  57 

Bower,  Lieut.-Col.,  Chinese  Regi- 
ment, 296 

Boxers,  night  attack  on  Tientsin 
station,  15 ;  courage  of,  24,  295 ; 
losses,  25  ;  hostility  to  Canton- 
ese traders,  284 

Brigands,  136 

Bridge  of  boats  at  Tientsin,  19 

Bridge,  marble,  at  Summer  Palace, 
127 

Bronze  Pagoda,  130 

Bronzes  in  Forbidden  City,  90, 93 

Browning,  Major,  48,  135,  168 

Buddha,  images  of,  109 


299 


300 


INDEX 


Buddhist  monks,  1 08 
Buddhist  temple,  107 
Burke,  Lieut,  22nd  Bombay  In- 
fantry, 208,  229 

Cable  tramway  to  the  Peak,  181 
Camoens,  Gardens  of,  254 

Cangue,  punishment  of  the,  269 

Can  ton,  history  of  intercourse  with 
foreigners,  257 ;  food  supplier  to 
Hong  Kong,  171 ;  projected  rail- 
way to,  171,  196  ;  turbulence, 
204 ;  reformers  in,  206 ;  land  and 
riverapproach,278 ;  description, 
261 ;  population,  263 ;  its  streets, 
264 ;  its  shops,  265 ;  prison,  269 ; 
its  trade,  275 ;  its  importance  to 
English  commerce,  275  ;  an 
attack  on,277 ;  energy  of  French 
consuls  in,  276 

Cap-sui-Moon  Pass,  209 

Carvalhaes,  Senhor,  A.D.C.  to 
Governor  of  Macao,  244,  250, 
251 

Casserly,  Lieut.,  208 

Cathedral,  Roman  Catholic,  in 
Pekin,  95  ;  its  siege,  97  ;  at 
Canton,  263 ;  San  Paulo  at 
Macao,  254 

Cavalry,  French,  43 ;  Japanese,  47 ; 
Indian,  59  ;  in  Hong  Kong,  200 

Cemetery  at  Wei-hai-wei,  4; 
Macao,  245 

Centre  of  the  Universe,  70 

Cession  of  the  Kowloon  Hinter- 
land, 197 

Chasseurs  d'Afrique,  43,  66 

Chifu,  6 

China  an  easy  prize,  280  ;  her 
sufferings  in  the  past  from 
foreigners,  290 ;  of  the  present- 
291  ;  of  the  future,  293 

Chinese  Army  of  the  past,  280  ; 


want  of  patriotism,  281  ;  family 
love,  281;  Mohammedans,  283 ; 
difference  in  languages,  283  ; 
dislike  to  foreigners,  286 ;  extor- 
tion of  mandarins,  291  ;  as 
merchants  abroad,  294 ;  trade 
honesty  of,  294  ;  splendid  ma- 
terial for  soldiers,  296  ;  in  modern 
warfare,  296 ;  soldiers  in  the 
South,  227  ;  in  the  North,  228  ; 
examinations,  273 
Chinese  Arsenal  at  Tientsin,  15  ; 

guns  made  at,  217 
Chinese  Regiment,  guard  at  Wei- 
hai-wei,  7  ;    barracks,  6  ;    be- 
haviour in  action,  295,  296 
Chinese  workmen,  97 
Chong  Wong  Foo,  83 
City  Hall,  Hong  Kong,  176 
Clocks  in  Emperor's  palace,  91 
Club,  Hong  Kong,  176  ;  Tientsin, 
20 ;   German  at  Tientsin,  22  ; 
English  Tennis  at  Macao,  244  ; 
Portuguese  Naval  Tennis  Club, 
Macao,    251  ;    Military    Club, 
Macao,  241 

Cloisonn^   in    Pekin,  its    manu- 
facture, in 
Coal  Hill,  Pekin,  74 
Cockroaches  as  an  article  of  diet, 

224 

Concessions,  European,  in  Tient- 
sin, 17  ;  in  Canton,  259,  274 
Confucius,  Temple  of,  1 1 1 
Consulate,  British,  at  Tientsin,  20; 

foreign,  at  Canton,  274 
Coolie  Corps,  10 
Cossacks  at  play,  163 
CustomSjImperial  Chinese,  station 
on  Mah  Wan,  209 ;  at  Samchun, 
212  ;  officers  of,  217 
Curzon,  Lord,  Problems  of  the 
Far  East,  69. 


INDEX 


301 


Dagoes,  53 

Daibutsu  at  Kamakura  and  Hiogo, 

109 

Death  of  a  thousand  cuts,  271 
De  Boulay,  Major,  R.A.,  121 
Deep  Bay,  196,  210 
Development  of  Japan,  293 
Dobell,  Major,  D.S.O.,  Royal  Welch 

Fusiliers,  85 
Docks,  Kowloon,  187 
Dockyard,  Royal  Naval,  at  Wei- 
hai-wei,  4  ;  at  Hong  Kong,  178 
Dorward,  General,  his  eulogy  of 

American  troops,  52 
Dowager-Empress,  her  pavilion 
in  the  Forbidden  City,  92 ;  palace 
in  Pekin,  74  ;  Summer  Palace, 
115;  seizure  of  the  Emperor, 
115;  supposed  plan  to  entrap 
the  Allies,  206 

Dragon  Gate  in  Canton,  274 
Drummond,  Mr.  Ivor,  C.I.C.,  31 
Dutch  Expeditionary  Force,  54  ; 
their  envy  of  the   Portuguese 
colonies  in  the  past — attempt 
on  Macao,  232 

East  India  Company  in  Canton, 
258 

Efficiency  of  British  officers  of 
the  Indian  Army,  57  ;  of  the 
Japanese  Intelligence  Depart- 
ment, 49 

Egyptian  fellah  compared  to  the 
Chinaman,  297 

Elderton,Commander,D.s.o.,good 
work  at  Taku,  8 

Embroidery  in  Canton,  268 

Emperor,  his  powerlessness,  64 ; 
his  palace,  89 ;  throne  room, 
89;  harem,  90;  private  apart- 
ments, 91  [17 

English  Concession  at  Tientsin, 


English  Legation  at  Pekin,  78 
English  officers,  friendship  with 
the  Americans,  21  ;  linguists  in 
China,  19;  supposed  ungracious- 
ness of  manners,  81 ;  plain  cam- 
paigning dress,  27 
Examinations,  Chinese  system  of, 

273 

Examination  Hall  in  Canton,  273 
Examiners,  Chinese,  at  Canton, 

274 
Executions  at  Tientsin,  28 ;    in 

Canton,  271 
Extortion  of  mandarins,  291 

Fair,  Lieut.,  R.N.,  Flag-Lieutenant 
to  Admiral  Seymour,  24 

Family  love  of  the  Chinese,  281 

Fans,  1 06 

Fan-tan  in  Samchun,  225 ;  in 
Macao,  253 

Fares  from  Hong  Kong  to  Canton 
and  Macao,  235 

Favrier,  Archbishop,  defends  the 
Peitan  gallantly,  95  ;  captures 
a  Chinese  gun,  96 ;  introduction 
to  him,  99  , 

Ferreira  Amaral,  Governor  of 
Macao,  refuses  to  pay  tribute 
to  the  Chinese,  232 

Fighting  races  of  India,  56 

Fireworks,  Chinese,  219 

Flags  of  Chinese  troops  in  Sam- 
chun, 215,  227 

Floating  population  of  Canton, 
260 ;  of  Hong  Kong,  185 

Flora,  Governor's  summer  resi- 
dence, 240 

Flowery  Forest  Monastery,  269 

Forbidden  City,  73,  86 

French  Army,  42  ;  intimacy  be- 
tween French  and  German  sol- 
diers in  Tientsin,  40 ;  Infanterie 


302 


INDEX 


Coloniale,  42  ;  infantry,  43  ; 
officers,  43 ;  method  of  main- 
taining discipline,  43  ;  training 
and  organisation,  44  ;  Zouaves 
and  Chasseurs  d'Afrique,  43 
French  colonial  party,  suspected 
designs  on  Macao,  233 ;  on 
Canton,  275 

French  post-office  in  Canton,  276 
Frontier  Field  Force,  208 
Frontier  of  the  Kowloon  Hinter- 
land, 196 

Fusiliers,  Royal  Welch,  attack  on 
a  patrol,  23 ;  in  the  Hinterland, 
198 ;  Hong  Kong  garrison,  200 

Garrison  of  Hong  Kong,  199  ; 
of  Macao,  241 

Gascoigne,  Major-General  Sir  W., 
199 

Gaselee,  General  Sir  A.,  K.C.B., 
204 

German  Army,  34  ;  adherence  to 
close  formations  and  antiquated 
tactics,  35  ;  campaigning  dress 
in  China,  39 ;  failure  of  trans- 
port, 39  ;  soldiers,  40 ;  their 
friendship  with  the  French,  40; 
officers  of,  37 

German  Club  at  Tientsin,  22 

German  Imperial  Navy,  40;  mer- 
cantile marine,  40 

Gordon  Hall,  Tientsin,  22,  28 

Gough,  Sir  Hugh,  attacks  Canton, 
258 

Government  of  Macao,  241 

Governor  of  Macao,  244 

Grant-Smith,  Mr.  Ivan,  245,  252 

Gray,  Captain,  4th  P. I.,  167 

Green  Island,  173 

Gunboats,  allied,  at  Taku,  9,  10 ; 
at  Canton,  274 ;  British  fired 
at,  276 


Gurkhas,friendship  with  Japanese, 
50,  1 66  ;  ingratitude  of  foreign 
troops  sheltered  by  them,  166  ; 
officers  at  Shanhaikwan,  138 

Hall,  Examination  at,  Canton,  273 
Hall  of  Five  Hundred  Genii,  269 
Hall  of  Ten  Thousand  Ages,  123 
Happy  Valley,  179 
Hardy,  Rev.  Mr.,  i 
Harem,  Emperor's,  in  Pekin,  90 
Ha-ta-man  Street,  102  ;  Gate,  77 
Hatherell,  Captain,  22nd  Bombay 

Infantry,  208,  229 
Heaven,  Temple  of,  67 
Heungshan,  s.s.,  235 
Heung  Shan,  Island  of,  233 
Hinterland,  Kowloon,  194  ;  char- 
acter and  description  of,  195  ; 
projected  railway  through,  196  ; 
cession,    196 ;    advantages    to 
Hong  Kong,  1 98 ;  column  guard- 
ing it,  202  ;   want  of  maps  of, 
216  ;  British  police  in,  198 
Honam,  Cantonese  suburb  of,  260, 

263 

Hong  Kong,  importance  as  a 
naval  and  military  base,  167  ; 
harbour,  184  ;  menace  of  fam- 
ine, 170  ;  commercial  import- 
ance, 171  ;  geography,  172  ;  de- 
scription, 174-184;  Club,  177; 
climate,  184 ;  society  in,  190 ; 
value  of  dollar,  235 
Hong  Kong  Regiment,  bravery  at 
Tientsin,  15  ;  barracks,  187  ; 
disbanded,  187 
Hong  Kong,  Canton  to  Macao 

Steamboat  Co.,  234 
Hong  Kong  and  Singapore  Artil- 
lery, 199 

Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai  Bank, 
ruins  in  Pekin,  71 ;  building  in 
Hong  Kong,  176 


INDEX 


303 


Hong  Kong  Volunteers,  188,  199 
Horrors,  Temple  of,  272 
Hotel  du  Nord,  Pekin,  71 
Hsi-ku  Arsenal,  30 
Hsin-ho,  British  landing-place  at, 

10 
Hutchinson,  Lieut.,  R.N.R.,  25, 135 

Imperial  apartments,  91 

Imperial  Maritime  Customs,  Chin- 
ese, gunboat,  210 ;  officers,  217  ; 
station  at  Samchun,  212 

Imperial  troops,  Chinese,  24,  296 

Indian  Army,  5 5 ;  fighting  races  of, 
56 ;  Lord  Roberts  chiefly  respon- 
sible for  its  efficiency,  57  ;  its 
British  officers,  57 ;  organisation 
of  a  regiment,  58  ;  foreign  criti- 
cisms, 59  ;  Russian  opinion  of, 
1 56  ;  cavalry,  59  ;  infantry,  60  ; 
impossibility  of  another  Mutiny> 
62  ;  loyalty  of  the  sepoy,  63 

India  as  a  training -ground  for 
troops,  6 1 

Indian  Expeditionary  Force,  33, 55 

Indian  Commissariat  at  Wei-hai- 
wei,  5  ;  at  Hong  Kong,  178 

Indian  Marine,  Royal,  officers  of, 
12 

Infanterie  Coloniale,  42 

Infantry,  excellence  of  Japanese, 
48  ;  Indian,  foreign  criticisms 
of,  60  ;  composition  of  a  native 
regiment  of,  58 

Intelligence  Department,  Japan- 
ese, 49 

Italian  Expeditionary  Force,  54 

Ivory  carving  in  Canton,  266 

Japan  in  the  past,  292 ;  its  modern 
development,  293  ;  arrests  in, 
252 

Japanese  Army  captures  Wei-hai- 


wei,3 ;  transport,  47 ;  campaign- 
ing dress,  47  ;  cavalry,  47  ;  in- 
fantry, 48  ;  infantry  in  action, 
48  ;  organisation,  49  ;  Intelli- 
gence Department,  49  ;  officers 
as  intelligence  agents  in  Pekin, 
49 ;  excellent  discipline,  49 ; 
courage  and  moderation,  50  ; 
friendship  for  Indian  troops,  50, 
165 
Japanese  Fleet,  arrival  at  Shan- 

haikwan,  149 

Johnstone,  Major,  R.M.L.I.,  30 
Junks,  marble  junk,  127  ;  junks 
in  Hong  Kong  harbour,  210 ; 
war  junks,  211 

Kell,  Lieut.,  S.  Stafford  Regt.,  144 
Kettler,   murder  of  Baron,   83  ; 

monument,  83 
Kettlewell,     Major,     commands 

Frontier  Field  Force,  208 
Kipling,  Rudyard,  his  description 

of  Canton,  256 
Kowloon,  174,  1 86  ;  docks,  187  ; 

society,  193 

Kowloon,  Chinese  city  of,  186, 188 
Kowloon  Peninsula,  172,  183, 194 
Kowloon  Hinterland,  see  Hinter- 
land. [207 
Kwang-tung,  194 ;  rebellion  in, 

Labertouche,  Captain,  22nd  Bom- 
bay Infantry,  146 

Ladies'  Recreation  Ground,  Hong 
Kong,  184 

Lama  Temple,  Great,  Pekin,  107 

Lampacao,  Portuguese  settlement 
on,  231 

Language,  difference  in  Chinese 
languages  in  various  provinces, 
283;  polyglot,  20 ;  British  officers 
as  interpreters,  19 


304 


INDEX 


Lantau,  Island  of,  183 
Legation  Street,  Pekin,  70,  80 
Legations,  Pekin,  78  ;  defence  of, 

78  ;  visit  to  English  Legation, 

79  ;  guard,  79  ;  new  defensive 
wall,  107 

Li  Hung  Chang,  128,  204 
Ling-chi,  torture  of,  271 
Liscum,  Colonel,  U.S.  Army,  his 

death,  53 

Liu-kung-tao,  Island  of,  3 
Losses  of  Allies  at  Tientsin,  296, 

297 
Lo-u,  216 

Macao,  231 ;  its  past  history,  231; 
its  present  decay,  232  ;  danger 
to  Hong  Kong,  233;  passage 
to,  236  ;  description,  237-40  ; 
public  gardens,  240 ;  govern- 
ment, 241  ;  society,  243  ;  affair 
with  police,  245  ;  gambling 
houses,  253  ;  sights,  254 

Madrassis,  decay  of,  56 

Madras  Sappers  and  Miners,  56 

Madras  Light  Infantry,  3rd,  200, 
204,  208 

Mandarins  at  Samchun,  222  ; 
corruption  of  Chinese,  228 ; 
extortion,  291 

Manchuria,  Russian  soldiers  in, 

45 

Map  of  Kowloon  Hinterland,  216 
Marble  junk,  127 
Marble  bridge  at  Summer  Palace, 

127 

Marco  Polo,  269 
Melville,    Lieut.,    22nd   Bombay 

Infantry,  208 
Mikado,  292 

Military  Club,  Macao,  241 
Military  College,  Tientsin,  295 
Moji,  253 


Monte  Carlo  of  the  East,  232 
Moon,  Temple  of,  70 
Mosquitoes,  141 
Mount  Austen  Hotel,  182 
Mounted  Infantry  in  Tientsin,  26 ; 

usefulness  in  Hong  Kong,  200 
Mud  of  Pekin,  82 
Mutiny  in  Macao,  242 
Mutiny,  impossibility  of  another 

Indian,  62 

Nagoya,  electric  cars  in,  293 
Naval  Dockyard  at  Wei-hai-wei, 

4  ;  at  Hong  Kong,  178 
Navy,  German,  40 
Newchwang,    Russian    church 

parade  in,  45  ;  railway  to,  133 
Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha,  293 

Ogilvie,  Lieut.,  R.A.,  208 
Old  Kowloon  City,  186,  188 
Osaka,  293 

Outrages  on  foreigners  in  China, 
287 

Pagoda,  bronze,  130 

Patriotism,  want  of,  281 ;  of  India, 
282 

Peak  in  Hong  Kong,  175, 181, 183 

Pearl  River,  236,  261 

Peddlers  in  Pekin,  102  ;  in  Can- 
ton, 261 

Peiho  River,  9,  19 

Peitan,Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 

95  5  sie&e>  97 
Peiyang  Arsenal,  taking  of,  219, 

295  ;  Russian  losses  at,  297 
Pekin,  journey  to,  65  ;  station,  66 ; 

description,  71  ;   walls  of,  72 ; 

Tartar  and  Chinese  cities,  72  ; 

Tartar  city,  72 ;  Legations,  78 ; 

mud,  82  ;  Allied  occupation  of, 

83  ;  Forbidden  City,  87 


INDEX 


305 


Pigmy,  H.M.S.,  takes  Shanhai- 
kwan  forts,  1-34 

Pioneers,  28th  Bombay,  57 

Police  of  Macao,  241 ;  affair  with, 
246 

Police  of  new  territory,  British, 
213 

Polo  ground  in  Victoria,  180 

Polo  in  Hong  Kong,  180 

Ponies,  troublesome  Chinese,  116 

Population  of  Canton,  263 

Port  Arthur,  reinforcements  from, 
46  ;  retention  of,  1 56 

Portuguese  colony  of  Macao,  231 ; 
tribute  to  China,  232  ;  police, 
246  ;  Naval  Tennis  Club,  251 

Powell,  Sir  Francis,  R.N.,  178 

Pottery,  106 

Praia  Grande,  238 

Punjaub  Infantry,  4th,  in  action 
with  Japanese  troops,  48;  guard- 
ing the  railway,  135 ;  under 
Lieut  Stirling,  D.S.O.,  168 

Purple  or  Forbidden  City,  73 

Puzzle-balls,  Chinese,  267 

Quarto  del  Sargento,  248 
Queen's  House,  Wei-hai-wei,  5 
Queen's  Road,  Hong  Kong,  248 

Railways  in  North  China,   133  ; 

from  Tong-ku  to  Pekin,  13,  65  ; 

to  Shanhaikwan,  135 
Railway,  projected,  to  Canton,  196 
Railway  Siding  incident,  32 
Railway  Staff  Officers,  British,  14 
Reformers  in  Southern  China,  206 
Ringing  Rocks  at  Macao,  255 
Roberts,  Lord,  57 
Royal  Indian  Marine  Officers,  12 
Royal  Welch  Fusiliers,  attack  on 

patrol,  23  ;  in  the  Hinterland, 

198  ;  Hong  Kong  garrison,  200 


Rudkin,  Lieut,  2oth  Bombay  In- 
fantry, his  tact  and  firmness, 

33 
Rue  du  General  Voyron,  Pekin, 

97 

Rundell,  Lieut,  R.E.,  208 

Russian  Army,  44 ;  troops,  44 ; 
endurance  of  soldiers,  45 ;  piety, 
45  ;  courage,  46  ;  comradeship 
between  officers  and  men,  47 

Russian  Railway  Staff  Officer  at 
Shanhaikwan,  144 

Russians  seize  railways  in  North 
China,  133  ;  seize  rolling  stock 
at  Shanhaikwan,  146 ;  dinner 
party  at  Shanhaikwan  on  the 
cliffs,  149 ;  a  dinner  with  Rus- 
sian officers,  1 54  ;  causes  of 
dislike  to  England,  155 

Samchun,  207,  212,  214 ;  visit  to, 

221  ;  river,  217 
Sampans  in  Hong  Kong,  185 
San  Paulo,  ruined  cathedral  of, 

254 

Satow,  Sir  Ernest,  128 
Saunders,  Lieut,  R.A.,  208 
Sepoys,  opinion  of  foreign  con- 
tingents, 6 1,    164 ;   loyalty  of, 

62 
Seymour,  Admiral   Sir   Edward, 

courage  in   Tientsin,   24 ;   his 

advance  on  Pekin,  30 
Shameen,  259,  274 
Sharpe,    Captain,     3rd    Madras 

Light  Infantry,  208 
Siberian  Army,  45 
Siege  of  Tientsin,  30 
Siege  of  the  Peitan,  97 
Siege    train,   disappointment    of 

British,  26 
Sikhs,  6 1 
Silks  in  Pekin,  105 


306 


INDEX 


Shanhaikwan,  138  ;  strategic  im- 
portance of,  134;  railway  jour- 
ney to,  135;  town  of,  146; 
Great  Wall  of  China  at,  148 ; 
arrival  of  Japanese  Fleet  at, 
149;  forts  at,  151;  Japanese 
and  Indians  at,  167 

Society  in  Hong  Kong,  190,  192  ; 
Kowloon,  193  ;  in  Macao,  243 

Spirit  Path,  88 

Stanley,  abandoned  town  of,  181 

Stirling,  Lieut,  D.S.O.,  4th  Pun- 
jaub  Infantry,  168 

Straubenzee,  General  Sir  Charles, 
258 

Streets  of  Canton,  263 

Streets  of  Pekin,  75 

Summer  Palace,  115 

Sun  Yat  Sen,  207 


Tai-mo-shan,  183 

Tai-u-shan,  183 

Taku,  8,  9  ;  forts,  9 

Taku  Road,  23 

Tartar  City,  72 

Temple  of  Heaven,  67 ;  Sun,  69 ; 

Moon,  70 ;  in  Forbidden  City, 

90,  93  ;  Lama,  107  ;  Confucius, 

in;  Five  Hundred  Genii,  269 ; 

of  Horrors,  272 
Terrible,  H. M.S.,  at  Shanhaikwan, 

155  ;  gunners,  25 
Tientsin  station,  1 5 ;  concessions, 

17;  Chinese  City,  17;  Club,  20; 

siege  of,  30 

Tommy  Atkins  in  Tientsin,  27 
Tong-ku,  10,  ii  ;  Allies  at,  II  ; 

station,  134 
Tong-shan,  137 
Tortures,  Chinese,  271 
Traders,  Chinese  as,  294 
Transport  officers,  8 


Transport  of  Germans  defective, 
39  ;  of  Japanese,  47  ;  Indian, 

55 

Treaty  Ports,  258 
Triad  Society,  207,  216 
Tung  Chow,  117 

Valley,  Happy,  179 

Vasilievski,  General,  wounded  at 

Pekin,  118 

Victoria,  Hong  Kong,  173 
Victoria  Road,  Tientsin,  22 
Vladivostock,  156 
Vodki,  154 
Von  Waldersee,  Count,  and  our 

Royal  Horse  Artillery,  68 

Wall,  Great,  of  China,  147 

Walls  of  Canton,  261 

Walls  of  Pekin,  72,  76 

Walls  of  Wei-hai-wei,  5 

Want  of  patriotism  among  the 
Chinese,  281 

Water-gate  of  Tartar  City,  78; 
of  Canton,  262 

Wei-hai-wei  by  night,  2 ;  by  day, 
3 ;  Chinese  village  of,  6 ;  taken 
by  Japanese,  3 

Welch  Fusiliers,  Royal,  79,  85, 
198,  200 

West  River,  276 

Whittall,  Major,  Hyderabad  Con- 
tingent, 1 8 

Williams,  Major,  Base  Commis- 
sariat Officer,  178 

Woolley,  Captain,  I.M.S.,  208,  220 

Workmen,  Chinese,  97 

Yamen,  Wei-hai-wei,  4  ;  Canton, 
262;  Samchun,  221;  British 
Consuls  in  Canton,  259 


INDEX 


307 


Yangtsun,  66 

Yaumati,  186,  209 

Yuan  Shi  Kai,  army  of,  229 


Zaire,  Portuguese  gunboat,  237  ; 

lands  sailors,  242 
Zouaves,  43 


H  Classified)   Catalogue 

OF  WORKS   IN 

GENERAL    LITERATURE 

PUBLISHED    BY 

LONGMANS,  GREEN,  &  CO. 

39    PATERNOSTER   ROW,    LONDON,    E.G. 

91  AND  93  FIFTH  AVENUE,  NEW  YORK,  AND  32  HORNBY  ROAD,  BOMBAY 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

PAGE" 

BADMINTON  LIBRARY  (THE).     -     12 

MENTAL,  MORAL,  AND  POLITICAL 

BIOGRAPHY,        PERSONAL        ME- 

PHILOSOPHY   

If 

MOIRS,   &c.        g 

MISCELLANEOUS  AND  CRITICAL 

CHILDREN'S  BOOKS          -        -        -     32 

WORKS      

38 

CLASSICAL  LITERATURE,  TRANS- 
LATIONS, ETC.1                                   -     22 

POETRY  AND  THE  DRAMA     - 

23 

COOKERY,     DOMESTIC     MANAGE- 

POLITICAL  ECONOMY   AND  ECO- 

MENT, &c.         -                 -        .        -    36 

NOMICS     

20 

EVOLUTION,        ANTHROPOLOGY, 

POPULAR  SCIENCE  - 

3° 

&c.       21 

FICTION,  HUMOUR,  &c.   -                 -     25 

RELIGION,  THE  SCIENCE  OF 

21 

FINE  ARTS  (THE)  AND  MUSIC      -     36 

SILVER  LIBRARY  (THE) 

33 

FUR,  FEATHER  AND  FIN  SERIES     15 

SPORT  AND  PASTIME       - 

12 

T  T  T  cnr/~\T?  V              "Df\T   TTTf"*  C               "DOT   TTV 

I^TWTAAT    MBWrtToe    /UL11Y'            STONYHURST     PHILOSOPHICAL 

POLITICAL  MEMOIRS,  &c.    -         -      3        SERIES 

10 

LANGUAGE,    HISTORY   AND 

SCIENCE  OF    20    TRAVEL   AND   ADVENTURE,  THE 

LOGIC,  RHETORIC,  PSYCHOLOGY, 

COLONIES,  &c. 

II 

&c.  17     WORKS  OF  REFERENCE  - 

31 

INDEX    OF    AUTHORS    AND     EDITORS. 

Page                                       Page 

Page 

Page 

Abbott  (Evelyn)      3,19,22     Balfour  (A.  J.)           -13,21 

Burke  (U.R.)   -        -          3    Crozier  (J.  B.)  - 

9,  17 

(J.  H.  M.)          -          3    Ball  (John)       -        -        11 
(T.  K.)      -        -17,18    Banks  (M.  M.)-        -        24 

Burne-Jones  (Sir  E.)        36    Cutts  (Rev.  E.  L.)    - 
Burns  (C.  L.)    -        -        36  i  Dabney  (J.  P.)  - 

6 
23 

(E.  A.)               -        17    Baring-Gould(Rev.S.)2i,38 

Burrows  (Montagu)            6  ;  Dale  (L.)  - 

4 

Acland  (A.  H.  D.)    -          3    Barnett  (S.  A.andH.)       20    Butler  (E.  A.)  -        -        30  i  Dallinger  (F.  W.)     - 

5 

Acton  (Eliza)    -        -        36    Baynes  (T.  S.)  -        -        38  i  Campbell  (Rev.  Lewis)    21  !  Dauglish  (M.  G.)  •  - 

9 

Adelborg  (O.)   -        -        32    Beaconsfield  (Earl  of)      25    Casserly  (G.)    -        -          3 

Davenport  (A.) 

25 

jEschylus          -        -        22    Beaufort  (Duke  01)12,13,  14    Chesney  (Sir  G.)      -          3 

Davidson  (A.  M.  C.) 

22 

Albemarle  (Earl  of)  -        13  ;  Becker  (W.  A.)         -        22    Childe-Pemberton(W.S.)  9 

(W.  L.)     -      17,20,21 

Alcock  (C.  W.)          -        15    Beesly  (A.  H.)  -        -          9 

Chisholm  (G.  C  )     -        31 

Davies  (J.  F.)   - 

22 

Allen  (Grant)    -        -        so    Bell  (Mrs.  Hugh)      -        33 

Cholmondeley-Pennell 

Dent  (C.  T.)     - 

14 

Allgood  (G.)      -        -          3     Bent  (J.  Theodore)  -        n        (H.)        -        -        -        13 

De  Salis  (Mrs.) 

36 

Alverstone  (Lord)    -        15     Besant  (Sir  Walter)-          3 

Christie  (R.  C.)         -        38 

De  Tocqueville  (A.)  - 

4 

Angwin  (M.  C.)        -        36    Bickerdyke(J.)          -14.15 

Churchill  (Winston  S.)  4,25 

Devas  (C.  S.)    - 

19,20 

Anstey  (F.)       -        -        25  ,  Bird  (G.)  -        -        -        23 

Cicero       -        -        -        22 

Dewey(D.  R.)- 

20 

Aristophanes    -        -        22    Blackburne  (J.  H.)   -        15 
Aristotle   -        -        -        17    Bland  (Mrs.  Hubert)         24 

Clarke  (Rev.  R.  F.)  -        19 
Climenson  (E.  J.)     -        10 

Dickinson  (W.  H.)  - 
Dougall  (L.)      - 

38 

35 

Arnold  (Sir  Edwin)-  11,23    Blount  (Sir  E.t         -          9 

Clodd  (Edward)        -  21,30 

Dowden  (E.)     - 

40 

(Dr.  T.)     -        -          3  ;  Boase  (Rev.  C.  W.)  -          6 

Clutterbuck  (W.  J.)-        12 

Doyle  (Sir  A.  Conan) 

25 

Ashbourne  (Lord)    -          3    Boedder  (Rev.  B.)    -        19 

Cochrane  (A.)                    23 

Du  Bois  (W.  E.  B.)- 

5 

Ashby  (H.)        -        -        36    Bonnell  (H.  H.)        -        38 

Cockerell  (C.  R.)      -        n 

Dunbar  (Mary  F.)    - 

25 

Ashley  (W.  J.)  -        -    3,20    Booth  (A.  J.)    -       -        38 
Atkinson  (J.  J.)         -        21     Bottome  (P.)                     25 

Colenso(R.  J.)         -        36 
Conington  (John)    -        23 

Dyson  (E.) 
Ellis  (J.  H.)      - 

26 
15 

Avebury  (Lord)        -        21    Bowen  (W.  E.)        -         9 

Conybeare(Rev.W.J.) 

(R.  L.)      -       - 

17 

Ayre  (Rev.  J.)  -        -        31     Brassey  (Lady)         -        n 

&  Howson  (Dean)        33 

Erasmus  - 

g 

Bacon       -        -        -9,17    Bright  (Rev.  J.  F.)  -          3 

Coolidge  (W.  A.  B.)         11 

Evans  (Sir  John)     - 

38 

Bagehot  (W.)  -       9,  20,  38    Broadfoot  (Major  W.)      13 

Corbett  (Julian  S.)  -          4 

Falkiner  (C.  L.) 

4 

Bagwell  (R.)     -        -          3    Brooks  (H.  J.)  -       -        17 

Coutts  (W.)      -        -        22 

Farrar  (Dean)  - 

2O,  26 

Bailey  (H.  C.)  -        -        25     Brough  (J.)       -        -        17 

Cox  (Harding)          -        13 

Fitzmaurice  (Lord  E.)       4 

Baillie  (A.  F.)  -        -          3    Brown  (A.  F.)  -        -        32 

Crake  (Rev.  A.  D.)   -        32 

Folkard  (H.  C.) 

15 

Bain  (Alexander)      -        17    Bruce  (R.  I.)     -        -          3 

Crawford  (J.  H.)      -       25 

Ford  (H.)  - 

16 

Baker  (J.  H.)    -       -        38    Buckland  (Jas.)        -       32 
(SirS.  W.)       -11,12     Buckle  (H.  T.)  -        -          3 

Creed  (S.)         -       -       25    Fountain  (P 
Creiffhton  (Bishop)  -  4,  6,  9    Fowler  (Edith  H.)    - 

it 
26 

Baldwin  (C.  S.)        -        17    Bull  (T.)   -       -      ...   .  -jjl 

Cross  (A.  L.)                       5    Francis  (Francis)     - 

16 

INDEX     OF     AUTHORS     AND      EDITORS— continued. 


Page 

Page 

Page 

Page 

Francis  (M.  E.)         -        26 

erome  (  Jerome  K.)  -        27 

Nansen  (F.)      -        -        12 

Stanley  (Bishop)      -        31 

Freeman  (Edward  A.)         6 

ohnson  (J.  &  J.  H.)         39 

Nash  (V.)                            7 

Stebbing  (W.)  -        -        28 

Fremantle  (T.  F.)     -        16 

[  ones  (H.  Bence)     -       31 

Nesbit  (E.)        -        -        24 

Steel  (A.  G.)     -        -        13 

Frost  (G.)-       -       -       38 

[  oyce  (P.  W.)    -      6,  27,  39 

Nettleship  (R.  L.)    -        17 

Stephen  (Leslie)       -        12 

Froude  (James  A.)  4,9,11,26 

ustinian  -        -        -        18 

Newman  (Cardinal)  -        28 

Stephens  (H.  Morse)          8 

Fuller  (F.  W.)  -        -          5 

Kant  (I.)    -                -        18 

Nichols  (F.  M.)         -          9 

Sternberg       (Count 

Furneaux  (W.)          -        30 
Gardiner  (Samuel  R.)         5 

Kaye  (Sir  I.  W.)       -          6 
Keary  (C.  F.)                     23 

Oakesmith  (J.)  -        -        22 
Ogilvie  (R.)      -        -        22 

Adalbert)   -        -          8 
Stevens  (R.  W.)       -        40 

Gathorne-Hardy  (Hon. 

Kelly  (E.)-        -        -        18 

Oldfield  (Hon.  Mrs.)         9 

Stevenson  (R.  L.)  25,28,33 

A.  E.)         -        -  15,  16 

Kielmansegge  (F.)    -          9 

Osbourne  (L.)  -        -        28 

Storr  (F.)  -        -        -        17 

Geikie  (Rev.  Cunning- 

Killick (Rev.  A.  H.)  -        18 

Packard  (A.  S.)         -        21 

Stuart-  Wortley  (A.  J.)  14,  15 

ham)                              38 

Kitchin  (Dr.  G.  W.)           6 

Paget  (Sir  J.)   -        -        10 

Stubbs  (J.  W.)  -        -          8 

Gibson  (C.  H.)-       -        17 

Knight  (E.  F.)  -        -  n,  14 

Park(W.)          -        -        16 

(W.)-        -        -         8 

Gilkes  (A.  H.)  -        -        38 

Kostlin  (J.)        -        -        10 

Parker  (B.)        -        -        40 

Suffolk  &  Berkshire 

Gleig  (Rev.  G.  R.)    -        10 

Kristeller  (P.)   -        -        37 

Payne-Gallwey  (Sir  R.)  14,16 

(Earl  ot)     -        -        14 

Graham  (A.)     -        -          5 

Ladd(G.  T.)     -        -        18 

Pears  (E.)         -        -          7 

Sullivan  (Sir  E.)       -        14 

(P.  A.)       -        -  15,  16 

Lang  (Andrew)  6  ,13,  14,  16, 

Pearse  (H.  H.  S.)     -          6 

Sully  (James)    -        -        19 

(G.  F.)       -        -        ao 

21,22,  23,27,  32,39 

Peek  (Hedley)  -       -        14 

Sutherland  (A.  and  G.)        8 

Granby  (Marquess  of)      15 

Lapsley  (G.  T.)         -          5 

Pemberton    (W.    S. 

(Alex.)       -        -  19,  40 

Grant  (Sir  A.)  -        -        17 

Laurie  (S.  S.)  -                  6 

Childe-)          -        -          9 

Suttner  (B.  von)       -        29 

Graves  (R.  P.)  -        -          9 

Lawrence  (F.  W.)    -        20 

Penrose  (H.  H.)        -        33 

Swinburne  (A.  J.)     -        19 

(A.  F.)       -        -        23 

Lear  (H.  L.  Sidney)  -        36 

Phillipps-Wolley(C.)  12,28 

Symes  (J.  E.)    -        -        20 

Green  (T.  Hill)         -  17,  18 

Lecky  (W.  E.  H.)   6,  18,  23 

Pierce  (A.  H.)  -        -        19 

Tait(J.)    ---          7 

Greene  (E.  B.)-        -          5 

Lees  (J.  A.)       -       -        12 

Pole(W.)-        -        -        17 

Tallentyre  (S.  G.)     -        10 

Greville  (C.  C.  F.)    -         5 

Leighton  (J_.  A.)        -        21 

Pollock  (W.  H.)  -        13,  40 

Tappan  (E.  M.)         -        33 

Grose  (T.  H.)   -        -        18 

Leslie  (T.  E.  Cliffe)  -        20 

Poole  (  W.  H  .  and  Mrs.)     36 

Taylor  (Col.  Meadows)      8 

Gross  (C.)         -        -          5 

Lieven  (Princess)     -          6 

Poore  (G.  V.)    -        -        40 

Theophrastus  -        -        23 

Grove  (Lady)    -        -        n 

Lillie  (A.)  -        -        -        16 

Portman  (L.)     -        -        28 

Thomas  (J.  W.)       -        19 

(Mrs.  Lilly)       -        13 

Lindley  (j.)       -        -        31 

Powell  (E.)       -        -          7 

Thomson  (H.  C.)     -          8 

Gurnhill(J.)     -        -        18 

Locock  (C.  D.)          -        16 

Powys  (Mrs.  P.  L.)  -        10 

Thornhill  (W.  ].)     -        23 

Gwilt  (J.)  -        -        -        31 

Lodge  (H.  C.)  -        -          6 

Praeger  (S.  Rosamond)    33 

Thornton  (T.  H.)     -        10 

Haggard  (H.  Rider) 

Loftie  (Rev.  W.  J.)  -         6 

Pritchett  (R.  T.)       -        14 

Thuillier  (H.  F.)       -        40 

ii,  26,  27,  38 

Longman  (C.  J.)       -  12,  16 

Proctor  (R.  A.)       16,  30,  35 

Todd(A.)-        -        -          8 

Halliwell-Phillipps(j.)     10 

(F.  W.)      -        -        16 

Raine  (Rev.  James)  -          6 

Tout  (T.  F.)      -        -          7 

Hamilton  (Col.  H.  B.)       5 

(G.  H.)      -        -  13,  15 

Ramal  (W.)       -        -        24 

Toynbee  (A.)     -        -        20 

Hamlin  (A.  D.  F.)    -        36 

(Mrs.  C.  J.)       -        37 

Randolph  (C.  F.)      -          7 

Trevelyan  (Sir  G.  O.) 

Harding  (S.  B.)         -          5 

Lowell  (A.  L.)  -        -          6 

Rankin  (R.)               -    8,  25 

6.  7,  8,  9,  10 

Hardwick  (A.  A.)      -        n 

Lucian      -        -        -        22 

Ransome  (Cyril)       -      3,  8 

(G.  M.)      -        -     7,  8 

Harmsworth  (A.  C.)    13,  14 

Lutoslawski  (W.)     -        18 

Reid  (S.  J.)       -       -         9 

(R.  C.)      -        -        25 

Harte  (Bret)      -        -        27 
Harting(J.  E.)  -        -        15 

Lyall  (Edna)     -        -  27,  32 
Lynch  (G.)        -        -          6 

Rhoades  (J.)     -        -        23 
Rice  (S.  P.)       -        -        12 

Trollope  (Anthonvl-       29 
Turner  (H.  G.)      ^-        40 

Hartwig  (G.)     -        -        30 

(H.  F.  B.)-        -        12 

Rich  (A.)  -        -        -        23 

Tyndall  (J.)       -        -    9,  12 

Hassall(A.)       -        -          8 

Lytton  (Earl  of)       -        24 

Richmond  (Ennis)    -        19 

Tyrrell  (R.  Y.)  -        -  22,  23 

Haweis  (H.  R.)         -    9,  36 

Macaulay  (Lord)  6,  7,  10,  24 

Rickaby  (Rev.  John)         19 

Unwin  (R.)                        40 

Head  (Mrs.)      -        -        37 

Macdonald  (Dr.  G.)  -       24 

(Rev.  Joseph)    -        19 

Upton(F.K.and  Bertha)   33 

Heath  (D.  D.)  -       -        17 

Macfarren  (Sir  G.  A.)        37 

Riley  (J.  W.)     -        -        24 

Van  Dyke  (J.  C.)      -        37 

Heathcote  (J.  M.)    -        14 

Mackail  (J.  W.)        -  10,  23 

Roberts  (E.  P.)         -        33 

Vanderpoel  (E.  N.)  -        37 

(C.  G.)       -       -        14 

Mackenzie  (C.  G.)    -        16 

Robertson  (W.  G.)  -        37 

Virgil        -        -        -        23 

(N.)   -       -       -        ii 

Mackinnon  (J.)          -          7 

Roget  (Peter  M.)      -  20,  31 

Wagner  (R.)     -        -        25 

Helmholtz  (Hermann 

Macleod  (H.  D.)        -        20 

Romanes  (G.  J.)  10,  19,21,24 

Wakeman  (H.  O.)     -          8 

von)    -        -        -        30 

Macpherson(Rev.H.A.)   15 

(Mrs.  G.  J.)       -        10 

Walford  (L.  B.)        -        29 

Henderson      (Lieut- 

Madden  (D.  H.)        -        16 

Ronalds  (A.)     -        -        17 

.Wallas  (Graham)     -        10 

Col.  G.  F.  R.)  -          9 

Magniisson  (E.)        -        28 

Roosevelt  (T.)  -        -          6 

—  (Mrs.  Graham)-        33 

Henry  (W.)       -        -        14 

Maher  (Rev.  M.)       -        19 

Ross  (Martin)  -        -        2» 

Walpole  (Sir  Spencer)  8,  10 

Henty  (G.  A.)  -        -        32 

Mallet  (B.)        -        -          7 

Rossetti  (Maria  Fran- 

(Horace)   -       -        10 

Higgins  (Mrs.  N.)    -          9 

Malleson  (Col.  G.B.)          6 

cesca)     -        -        -        40 

Walrond  (Col.  H.)    -        12 

Hill  (Mabel)     -        -          5 

Marbot  (Baron  de)  -        10 

Rotheram  (M.  A.)    -        36 

Walsingham  (Lord)-        14 

(S.  C.)       -        -          5 

Marchment  (A.  W.)         27 

Rowe  (R.  P.  P.)        -        14 

Ward  (  Mrs.  W.)       -       29 

Hillier  (G.  Lacy)      -        13 

Marshman  (J.  C.)     -          9 

Russell  (Lady)-        -        10 

Warner  (P.  F.)         -        17 

Hime  (H.  W.  L.)      -       22 

Maryon  (M.)    -        -        39 

Sandars  (T.  C.)         -        18 

Warwick  (Countess  of)    40 

Hodgson  (Shadworth)       18 

Mason  (A.  E.  W.)    -        27 

Sanders  (E.  K.)                   9 

Watson  (A.  E.  T.)  12,  13,  14 

Hoenig(F.)      -        -        38 

Maskelyne(J.N.)     -        16 

Savage-  Armstrong(G.F.)25 

Weathers  (J.)   -        -        40 

Hogan  (J.  F.)    -        -          9 

Matthews  (B.)          -        39 

Seebohm  (F.)    -        -    8,  10 

Webb  (Mr.  and  Mrs. 

Holmes  (R.  R.)         -        10 

Maunder  (S.)                     31 

Selous  (F.  C.)  -        -  12,  17 

Sidney)       -        -        20 

Homer                              22 
Hope  (Anthony)       -       27 

Max  Miiller  (F.) 
10,  18,  20,  21,  22,  27,  39 

Senior  (W.)      -        -  13,  15 
Seton-Karr(SirH.)-         8 

(Judge  T.)         -       40 
(T.  E.)       -       -        19 

Horace                               22 

May  (Sir  T.  Erskine)          7 

Sewell  (Elizabeth  M.)       28 

Weber  (A.)       -        -        19 

Illusion  (D.  F.)       -          5 

Meade  (L.  T.)  -        -        32 

Shadwell  (A.)    -        -        40 

Weir  (Capt.  R.)        -        14 

Howard  (Lady  Mabel)     27 

Melville  (G.J.Whyte)      27 

Shakespeare     -       -       25 

Wellington  (Duchess  of)  37 

Howitt  (W.)     -        -        ii 

Merivale  (Dean)       -          7 

Shaw  (W.  A.)   -        -          8 

Wemyss(M.  C.  E.)-        33 

Hudson  (W.  H.)       -        30 

Mernman  'H.  S.)      -        27 

Shearman  (M.)          -  12,  13    Weyman  (Stanley)  -        29 

Huish  (M.  B.)  -        -        37 

Mill  (John  Stuart)    -  18,  20 

Sheehan  (P.  A.)        -        28 

Whately(Archbishop)  17,19 

Hullah  (J.)        -        -        37 

Millais  (I.  G.)  -        -  16,  30 

Sheppard  (E.)  -        -          8 

Whitelaw  (R.)  -        -        23 

Hume  (David)  -        -        18 

Milner  (G.)                        40 

Sinclair  (A.)                       14 

WhittalKSirJ.  W.)-       40 

(M.  A.  S.)         -          3 

Monck  (W.  H.  S.)    -        19 

Skrine  (F.  H.)  -        -          9 

Wilkins(G.)     -        -        23 

Hunt  (Rev.  W.)        -         6 

Montague  (F.  C.)     -          7 

Smith  (C.  Fell)         -        10    (W.  H.)     -        -        10 

Hunter  (Sir  W.)      -         6  j  Moore  (T.)       -       -       31 

(R.  Bosworth)  -          8    Willard  (A.  R.)         -        37 

Hutchinson  (Horace  G.)      I  (Rev.  Edward)  -        17 

(T.  C.)       -        -          5     Willich  (C.  M.)         -        31 

13,  16,  27,  38 

Moran  (T.  F.)  -        -          7 

(W.  P.  Haskett)        12    Wood  (Rev.  J.  G.)   -        31 

Ingelow  (Jean)          -        23 

Morgan  (C.  Lloyd)  -       21 

Somerville  (E.)        -       28    Wood-Martin  (W.  G.)     33 

Ingram  (T.  D.)         •          6 

Morris  (W.)      -    22,  23,  24, 

Sophocles          -        -        23    Wyatt  (A.  J.)    -        -        24 

James  (W.)       -       -  18,  21 

«7i  28,  37,  40 

Soulsby(LucyH.)    -        40    Wylie  (J.  H.)    -        -          8 

Jameson  (Mrs.  Anna)       37 

Mulhall  (M.  G.)        -        20 

Southey  (R.)     -        -        40    Yeats  (S.  Levett)     -        29 

Jefferies  (Richard)    -        38 

Murray  (Hilda)         -        33 

Spedding  (J.)     -        -    9,  17    Yoxall  (J.  H.)                    29 

Jekyll  (Gertrude)      -       38 

Myers  (F.  W.  H.)     -        19 

Spender  (A.  E.)        -        12    Zeller  (E.)         -       -        19 

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MOTORS  AND  MOTOR-DRIV- 
ING. By  ALFRED  C.  HARMSWORTH,  the 
MARQUIS  DE  CHASSELOUP-LAUBAT,  the 
Hon.  JOHN  SCOTT-MONTAGU,  R.  J.  .ME- 
CREDY,  the  Hon.  C.  S.  ROLLS,  Sir  DAVID 
SALOMONS,  Bart.,  etc.  With  13  Plates  and 
136  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo., 
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14        MESSRS.   LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS. 


Sport  and  Pastime — continued. 

THE   BADMINTON    LIBRARY— continued. 

Edited  by  HIS  GRACE  THE  (EIGHTH)  DUKE  OF  BEAUFORT,  K.G., 
and  A.  E.  T.  WATSON. 


MOUNTAINEERING.  By  C.  T. 
DENT.  With  Contributions  by  the  Right 
Hon.  J.  BRYCE,  M.P.,  Sir  MARTIN  CONWAY, 
D.  W.  FRESHFIELD,  C.  E.  MATTHEWS,  etc. 
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Text.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth,  6s.  net ;  half- 
bound,  with  gilt  top,  gs.  net. 

POETRY  OF  SPORT  (THE).— 
Selected  by  HEDLEY  PEEK.  With  a 
Chapter  on  Classical  Allusions  to  Sport  by 
ANDREW  LANG,  and  a  Special  Preface  to 
the  BADMINTON  LIBRARY  by  A.  E.  T. 
WATSON.  With  32  Plates  and  74  Illustra- 
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RACING  AND  STEEPLE-CHAS- 
ING. By  the  EARL  OF  SUFFOLK  AND 
BERKSHIRE,  W.  G.  CRAVEN,  the  Hon.  F. 
LAWLEY,  ARTHUR  COVENTRY,  and  A.  .E.  T. 
WATSON.  With  Frontispiece  and  56  Illus- 
trations in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth,  6s. 
net ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  gs.  net. 

RIDING  AND  POLO.  By  Captain 
ROBERT  WEIR,  J.  MORAY  BROWN,  T.  F. 
DALE,  THE  LATE  DUKE  OF  BEAUFORT,  THE 
EARL  OF  SUFFOLK  AND  BERKSHIRE,  etc. 
With  18  Plates  and  41  Illusts.  in  the  Text. 
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ROWING.  By  R.  P.  P.  ROWE  and 
C.  M.  PITMAN.  With  Chapters  on  Steering 
by  C.  P.  SEROCOLD  and  F.  C.  BEGG  ;  Met- 
ropolitan Rowing  by  S.  LE  BLANC  SMITH  ; 
and  on  PUNTING  by  P.  W.  SQUIRE.  With 
75  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth,  6s.  net ; 
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SHOOTING. 

Vol.  I.  FIELD  AND  COVERT.  By  LORD 
WALSINGHAM  and  Sir  RALPH  PAYNE- 
GALLWEY,  Bart.  With  Contributions  by 
the  Hon.  GERALD  LASCELLES  and  A.  J. 
STUART-WORTLEY.  With  n  Plates  and 
95  Illustrations  in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo., 
cloth,  6s.  net ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top, 
gs.  net. 

Vol.  II.  MOOR  AND  MARSH.  By 
LORD  WALSINGHAM  and  Sir  RALPH  PAYNE- 
GALLWEY,  Bart.  With  Contributions  by 
LORD  LOVAT  and  Lord  CHARLES  LENNOX 
KERR.  With  8  Plates  and  57  Illustrations 
in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth,  6s.  net ; 
half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  gs.  net. 


SEA  FISHING.  By  JOHN  BICKER- 
DYKE,  Sir  H.  W.  GORE-BOOTH,  ALFRED 
C.  HARMSWORTH,  and  W.  SENIOR.  With  22 
Full-page  Plates  and  175  Illusts.  in  the  Text. 
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SKATING,  CURLING,  TOBOG- 
GANING. By  J.  M.  HEATHCOTE,  C.  G. 
TEBBUTT,  T.  MAXWELL  WITHAM,  Rev. 
JOHN  KERR,  ORMOND  HAKE,  HENRY  A. 
BUCK,  etc.  With  12  Plates  and  272  Illus- 
trations in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth,  6s. 
net ;  half-bound,  with  gilt  top,  gs.  net. 


SWIMMING.  By  ARCHIBALD  SIN- 
CLAIR and  WILLIAM  HENRY,  Hon.  Sees,  of  the 
Life- Saving  Society.  With  13  Plates  and  112 
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TENNIS,  LA  WN  TENNIS, 
RACKETS  AND  FIVES.  By  J.  M.  and 
C.  G.  HEATHCOTE,  E.  O.  PLEYDELL-BOU- 
VERIE,  and  A.  C.  AINGER.  With  Contributions 
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YACHTING. 

Vol.  I.  CRUISING,  CONSTRUCTION 
OF  YACHTS,  YACHT  RACING 
RULES,  FITTING-OUT,  etc.  By  Sir 
EDWARD  SULLIVAN,  Bart.,  THE  EARL  OF 
PEMBROKE,  LORD  BRASSEY,  K.C.B.,  C. 
E.  SETH-SMITH,  C.B.,  G.  L.  WATSON,  R. 
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Vol.  II.  YACHT  CLUBS,  YACHT- 
ING IN  AMERICA  AND  THE 
COLONIES,  YACHT  RACING,  etc. 
By  R.  T.  PRITCHETT,  THE  MARQUIS  OF 

DUFFERIN  AND  AvA,  K.P.,  THE    EARL  OF 

ONSLOW,  JAMES  MCFERRAN,  etc.  With 
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Text.  Crown  8vo.,  cloth,  gs.  net ;  half- 
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Sport  and  Pastime — continued. 
FUR,   FEATHER,   AND   FIN   SERIES. 

Edited  by  A.  E.  T.  WATSON. 

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THE  PARTRIDGE.  Natural  His- 
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Shooting,  by  A.  J.  STUART-WORTLEY  ; 
Cookery,  by  GEORGE  SAINTSBURY.  With 
ii  Illustrations  and  various  Diagrams. 
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THE  GRO USE.  Natural  History,  by 
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by  A.  J.  STUART-WORTLEY;  Cookery,  by 
GEORGE  SAINTSBURY.  With  13  Illustrations 
and  various  Diagrams.  Crown  8vo.,  5*. 

THE  PHEASANT.  Natural  History, 
by  the  Rev.  H.  A.  MACPHERSON  ;  Shooting, 
by  A.  J.  STUART-WORTLEY  ;  Cookery,  by 
ALEXANDER  INNES  SHAND.  With  10  Illus- 
trations and  various  Diagrams.  Crown 
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THE  HARE.  Natural  History,  by 
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by  the  Hon.  GERALD  LASCELLES  ;  Coursing, 
by  CHARLES  RICHARDSON  ;  Hunting,  by  J. 
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RED  DEER.— Natural  History,  by 
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ing, by  CAMERON  OF  LOCHIEL  ;  Stag 
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THE  SALMON.    By  the  Hon.  A.  E. 

GATHORNE-HARDY.  With  Chapters  on  the 
Law  of  Salmon  Fishing  by  CLAUD  DOUGLAS 
PENNANT  ;  Cookery,  by  ALEXANDER  INNES 
SHAND.  With  8  Illustrations.  Cr.  8vo.,  55. 

THE  TROUT.  By  the  MARQUESS 
OF  GRANBY.  With  Chapters  on  the  Breed- 
ing of  Trout  by  Col.  H.  CUSTANCE  ;  and 
Cookery,  by  ALEXANDER  INNES  SHAND. 
With  12  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo.,  55. 

THE  RABBIT.  By  JAMES  EDMUND 
HARTING.  Cookery,  by  ALEXANDER  INNES 
SHAND.  With  10  Illustrations.  Cr.  8vo.,  55. 

PIKE  AND  PERCH.    By  WILLIAM 

SENIOR  ('  Redspinner,'  Editor  of  the 
'  Field').  With  Chapters  by  JOHN  BICKER- 
DYKE  and  W.  H.  POPE;  Cookery,  by 
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Alverstone   and  Alcock. — SURREY 

CRICKET:  its  History  and  Associations. 
Edited  by  the  Right  Hon.  LORD  ALVER- 
STONE, L.C.J.,  President,  and  C.W.  ALCOCK, 
Secretary,  of  the  Surrey  County  Cricket 
Club.  With  48  Illustrations.  8vo.,  i6s.  net. 

Bickerdyke. — DAYS  OF  MY  LIFE  ON 
WATER,  FRESH  AND  SALT;  and  other 
Papers.  By  JOHN  BICKERDYKE.  With 
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Illustrations.  Crown  8vo.,  35.  6d. 

Blackburne.  —  MR.  BLACKBURNE  s 
GAMES  AT  CHESS.  Selected,  Annotated 
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Biographical  Sketch  and  a  brief  History  of  | 
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Dead  Shot  (The) :  or,  Sportsman's 
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kinds.  Also  Game-driving,  Wildfowl  and 
Pigeon-shooting,  Dog-breaking,  etc.  By 
MARKSMAN.  With  numerous  Illustrations. 
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Ellis. — CHESS  SPARKS  ;  or,  Short  and 
Bright  Games  of  Chess.  Collected  and 
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Folkard. — THE    WILD-FOWLER  :    A 

Treatise  on  Fowling,  Ancient  and  Modern, 
descriptive  also  of  Decoys  and  Flight-ponds, 
Wild-fowl  Shooting,  Gunning-punts,  Shoot- 
ing-yachts, etc.  Also  Fowling  in  the  Fens 
and  in  Foreign  Countries,  Rock-fowling, 
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Ford. — THE  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE 
OF  ARCHERY.  By  HORACE  FORD.  New 
Edition,  thoroughly  Revised  and  Re-written 
by  W.  BUTT,  M.A.  With  a  Preface  by  C. 
J.  LONGMAN,  M.A.  8vo.,  145. 

Francis. — A  BOOK  ON  ANGLING  :  or, 
Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Fishing  in  every 
Branch  ;  including  full  Illustrated  List  of  Sal- 
mon Flies.  By  FRANCIS  FRANCIS.  With  Por- 
trait and  Coloured  Plates.  Crown  8vo.,  151. 

Fremantle.  —  THE    BOOK   OF    THE 

RIFLE.  By  the  Hon.  T.  F.  FREMANTLE, 
V.D.,  Major,  ist  Bucks  V.R.C.  With  54 
Plates  and  107  Diagrams  in  the  Text.  8vo., 
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16         MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS. 


Sport  and  Pastime — continued. 


Gathorne  -  Hardy.  —  AUTUMNS  IN 
ARGYLESHIRE  WITH  ROD  AND  GUN.  By 
the  Hon.  A.  E.  GATHORNE-HARDY.  With 
8  Illustrations  by  ARCHIBALD  THORBURN. 
8vo.,  6s.  net. 

Graham. — COUNTRY  PASTIMES  FOR 
BOYS.  By  P.  ANDERSON  GRAHAM.  With 
252  Illustrations  from  Drawings  and 
Photographs.  Cr.  8vo.,  gilt  edges,  35.  net. 

Hutchinson. — THE  BOOK  OF  GOLF 
AND  GOLFERS.  By  HORACE  G.  HUTCHIN- 
SON. With  Contributions  by  Miss  AMY 
PASCOE,  H.  H.  HILTON,  J.  H.  TAYLOR,  H. 
J.  WHIGHAM,  and  Messrs.  SUTTON  &  SONS. 
With  71  Portraits  from  Photographs.  Large 
crown  8vo.,  gilt  top,  ys.  6d.  net. 

Lang. — ANGLING     SKETCHES.       By 

ANDREW    LANG.      With    20    Illustrations. 
Crown  8vo.,  35.  6d. 

Lillie. — CROQUET  UP  TO  DATE.  Con- 
taining the  Ideas  and  Teachings  of  the 
Leading  Players  and  Champions.  By  AR- 
THUR LILLIE.  With  Contributions  by 
Lieut. -Col.  the  Hon.  H.  NEEDHAM,  C.  D. 
LOCOCK,  etc.  With  19  Illustrations  (15 
Portraits),  and  numerous  Diagrams.  8vo., 
ros.  6d.  net. 

Locock. — SIDE  AND  SCREW,  being 
Notes  on  the  Theory  and  Practice  of  the 
Game  of  Billiards.  By  C.  D.  LOCOCK. 
With  Diagrams.  Crown  8vo.,  55.  net.' 

Longman. — CHESS  OPENINGS.      By 

FREDERICK  W.  LONGMAN.  Fcp.  8vo.,  2s.  &d. 

Mackenzie. — NOTES  FOR  HUNTING 
MEN.  By  Captain  CORTLANDT  GORDON 
MACKENZIE.  Crown  8vo.,  2s.  6d.  net. 

Madden. — THE  DIARY  OF  MASTER 
WILLIAM  SILENCE  :  a  Study  of  Shakespeare 
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Maskelyne. — SHARPS  AND  FLATS  :  a 
Complete  Revelation  of  the  Secrets  of 
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JOHN  NEVIL  MASKELYNE,  of  the  Egyptian 
Hall.  With  62  Illustrations.  Crown  8vo.,  6s. 

Millais  (JOHN  GUILLE). 

THE  WILD-FOWLER  IN  SCOTLAND. 
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gravure Plates,  2  Coloured  Plates  and  50 
Illustrations  from  the  Author's  Drawings 
and  from  Photographs.  Royal  410.,  gilt 
top,  305.  net. 


Millais  (JoHN  GUILLE) — continued. 
THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE 
BRITISH  SURFACE -FEEDING  DUCKS. 
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Park. — THE  GAME  OF  GOLF.  By 
WILLIAM  PARK,  Jun.,  Champion  Golfer, 
1887-89.  With  17  Plates  and  26  Illustra- 
tions in  the  Text.  Crown  8vo.,  js.  6d. 

Payne-Gallwey  (Sir  RALPH,  Bart.). 

THE  CROSS-BOW  :  Mediaeval  and 
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Construction,  History  and  Management, 
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pult of  the  Ancients.  With  220  Illustra- 
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LETTERS  TO  YOUNG  SHOOTERS  (First 
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LETTERS  TO  YOUNG  SHOOTERS. 
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Pole. — THE  THEORY  OF  THE  MODERN 

SCIENTIFIC  GAME  OF  WHIST.   By  WILLIAM 

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Proctor. — How    TO  PLAY    WHIST: 

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Ronalds. — THE  FLY-FISHER'S  ENTO- 
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Selous. — SPORT  AND  TRAVEL,  EAST 
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Warner. — CRICKET  IN  A  USTRALASIA  : 

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G.  A.  M.  Crown  8vo.,  gilt  top,  55. 


Melville  (G.  J.  WHYTE). 


The  Gladiators. 
The  Interpreter. 
Good  for  Nothing. 
The  Queen's  Maries. 


Holmby  House. 
Kate  Coventry. 
Digby  Grand. 
General  Bounce. 


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the  Indian  Mutiny.  By  HENRY  SETON 
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Morris  (WILLIAM). 
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THE  ROOTS  OF  THE  MOUNTAINS, 
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28        MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS. 


Fiction,    Humour,   &e. — continued. 


Morris  (WILLIAM) — continued. 

A  TALE  OF  THE  HOUSE  OF  THE 
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Mark.  Written  in  Prose  and  Verse. 
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MAGNtjssoN  and  WILLIAM  MORRIS.  Cr. 
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THREE  NORTHERN  LOVE  STORIES, 
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%*  For   Mr.   William   Morris's  other 
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Somerville 

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CALLISTA:    A   Tale   of  the   Third 
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Phillipps-Wolley. — SNAP:  a  Legend 
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WOLLEY.  With  13  Illustrations.  Crown 
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Portman. — STATION  STUDIES  :  being 

the   Jottings   of    an    African    Official.     By 
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Sewell  (ELIZABETH  M.). 


A  Glimpse  of  the  World. 
Laneton  Parsonage. 
Margaret  Percival. 
Katharine  Ashton. 
The  Earl's  Daughter. 
The  Experience  of  Life, 


Amy  Herbert. 
Cleve  Hall. 
Gertrude. 
Home  Life. 
After  Life. 
Ursula.     Ivors. 


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ALL  ON  THE  IRISH  SHORE  :  Irish 
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Louis  STEVENSON  and  LLOYD  OSBOURNE. 
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MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS.        29 


Fiction,  Humour,  &c. — continued. 


Suttner. — LAY  DOWN   YOUR  ARMS   Walford  (L.  B.) — continued. 

(Die  Waffen  Nieder) :  The  Autobiography 
of  Martha  von  Tilling.  By  BERTHA  VON 
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25.  6d. 

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3o        MESSRS.   LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS. 


Popular  Science  -(Natural  History,  &e.). 


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An  Account  of  the  Insect-Pests  found  in  ' 
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BIRDS  AND  MAN. 
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Proctor  (RICHARD  A.). 

LIGHT  SCIENCE  FOR  LEISURE  HOURS. 
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ROUGH  WA  YS  MADE  SMOOTH.  Fami- 
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LEISURE  HEADINGS.  By  R.  A.  PROC- 
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and  A.  C.  RANYARD.  Cr.  8vo. ,  35.  6d. 

*»*  For  Mr.  Proctor's  other  books  see  pp.  16 
and  35,  and  Messrs.  Longmans  &•  Co.'s  Cata- 
logue of  Scientific  Works. 


MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS.         31 


Popular   Science    (Natural  History,  &e.) — continued. 


Stanley. — A  FAMILIAR  HISTORY  OF 
BIRDS.  By  E.  STANLEY,  D.D.,  formerly 
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Wood  (Rev.  J.  G.). 

HOMES  WITHOUT  HANDS:  A  Descrip- 
tion of  the  Habitations  of  Animals,  classed 
according  to  their  Principle  of  Construc- 
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top,  75.  net. 

INSECTS  AT  HOME  :  A  Popular  Ac- 
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Wood  (Rev.  J.  G.) — continued. 

INSECTS  ABROAD:  A  Popular  Ac- 
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OUT    OF  DOORS;    a    Selection    of 

Original  Articles    on   Practical    Natural 

History.  With  n  Illustrations.    Cr.  8vo., 
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PETLAND  REVISITED.  With  33 
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STRANGE  DWELLINGS  :  a  Description 
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from  '  Homes  without  Hands '.  With  60 
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Works  of  Reference. 


Gwilt. — AN  ENCYCLOPAEDIA  OF  AR- 
CHITECTURE. By  JOSEPH  GWILT,  F.S.A. 
With  1700  Engravings.  Revised  (1888), 
with  Alterations  and  Considerable  Addi- 
tions by  WYATT  PAPWORTH.  8vo.,  2is. 
net. 


Longmans'  GAZETTEER  OF  THE 
WORLD.  Edited  by  GEORGE  G.  CHIS- 
HOLM,  M.A.,  B.Sc.  Imperial  8vo.,  185.  net 
cloth  :  2  is.  half-morocco. 


Maunder  (SAMUEL). 

BIOGRAPHICAL  TREASURY.  With 
Supplement  brought  down  to  1889.  By 
Rev.  JAMES  WOOD.  Fcp.  8vo.,  65. 


THE  TREASURY  OF  BIBLE  KNOW- 
LEDGE. By  the  Rev.  J.  AYRE,  M.A.  With 
5  Maps,  15  Plates,  and  300  Woodcuts. 
Fcp.  8vo.,  6s. 


TREASURY  OF  KNOWLEDGE  AND  LIB- 
RARY OP  REFERENCE.     Fcp.  8vo.,  6s. 


Maunder  (SAMUEL; — continued. 


THE  TREASURY  OF  BOTANY.  Edited 
by  J.  LINDLEY,  F.R.S.,  and  T.  MOORE, 
F.L.S.  With  274  Woodcuts  and  20  Steel 
Plates.  2  vols.  Fcp.  8vo.,  125. 


Roget.  —  THESAURUS  OF  ENGLISH 
WORDS  AND  PHRASES.  Classified  and  Ar- 
ranged so  as  to  Facilitate  the  Expression  of 
Ideas  and  assist  in  Literary  Composition. 
By  PETER  MARK  ROGET,  M.D.,  F.R.S. 
Recomposed  throughout,  enlarged  and  im- 
proved, partly  from  the  Author's  Notes,  and 
with  a  full  Index,  by  the  Author's  Son, 
JOHN  LEWIS  ROGET.  Crown  8vo.,  gs.  net. 


\Wi\\ich.~PopuLAR  TABLES  for  giving 
information  for  ascertaining  the  value  of 
Lifehold,  Leasehold,  and  Church  Property, 
the  Public  Funds,  etc.  By  CHARLES  M. 
WILLICH.  Edited  by  H.  BENCE  JONES. 
Crown  8vo.,  IDS.  6d. 


32        MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS. 


Children's  Books. 


Adelborg. — CLEAN  PETER  AND  THE 
CHILDREN  OF  GRUBBYLEA.  By  OTTILIA 
ADELBORG.  Translated  from  the  Swedish 
by  Mrs.  GRAHAM  WALLAS.  With  23 
Coloured  Plates.  Oblong  410.,  boards, 
35.  6d.  net. 


Alick's   Adventures.  —  By    G.    R. 

With   8    Illustrations   by  JOHN    HASSALL. 
Crown  8vo.,  35.  6d. 


Brown. — THE  BOOK  OF  SAINTS  AND 
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BROWN.  With  8  Illustrations  by  FANNY  Y. 
CORY.  Crown  8vo.,  45.  6d.  net. 


Buckland. — TWOLITTLERUNA  WA  vs. 
Adapted  from  the  French  of  Louis  DES- 
NOYERS.  By  JAMES  BUCKLAND.  With  no 
Illustrations  by  CECIL  ALDIN.  Cr.  8vo.,  6s. 

Crake  (Rev.  A.  D.). 

EDWY  THE  FAIR;  or,  The  First 
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ALFGAR  THE  DANE  ;  or,  The  Second 
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THE  RIVAL  HEIRS  :  being  the  Third 
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THE  HOUSE  OF  WALDERNE.  A  Tale 
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top,  25.  net. 

BRIAN  FITZ- COUNT.  A  Story  of 
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Henty  (G.  A.). — EDITED  BY. 

YULE  LOGS  :  A  Story-Book  for  Boys. 
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Lang  (ANDREW). — EDITED  BY. 

THE  BLUE  FAIRY  BOOK.  With  138 
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THE  PINK  FAIRY  BOOK.  With  67 
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THE  VIOLET  FAIRY  BOOK.  With  8 
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THE  BL  UE  POETR  Y  BOOK.  With  i oo 
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THE  TRUE  STORY  BOOK.  With  66 
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Lyall. — THE  SURGES  LETTERS:  a 
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Meade  (L.  T.). 

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DEB  AND  THE  DUCHESS.     With  7 

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THE  HOUSE  OF  SURPRISES.    With  6 

Illustrations.     Cr.  8vo.,  gilt  edges,  y.  net. 


MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS.        33 


Children's  Books — continued. 


Murray.  —  FLOWER  LEGENDS  FOR 
CHILDREN.  By  HILDA  MURRAY  (the  Hon. 
Mrs.  MURRAY  of  Elibank).  Pictured  by  J. 
S.  ELAND.  With  numerous  Coloured  and 
other  Illustrations.  Oblong  4to.,  6s. 

Penrose.  —  CHUBBY  :   A   NUISANCE. 

By  Mrs.   PENROSE.     With    8,  Illustrations 
by  G.  G.  MANTON.     Crown  8vo.,  3$.  6d. 

Praeger  (ROSAMOND). 

THE  ADVENTURES  OF   TK^    THREE 
BOLD  BABES:   HECTOR,  HONORIA  AND  \ 
ALISANDER.    A  Story  in  Pictures.    With  I 
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tures.    Oblong  410.,  3$.  6d. 

THE  FURTHER  DOINGS  OF  THE  THREE 
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Roberts.  —  THE  ADVENTURES  OF 
CAPTAIN  JOHN  SMITH  :  Captain  of  Two  j 
Hundred  and  Fifty  Horse,  and  sometime  I 
President  of  Virginia.  By  E.  P.  ROBERTS,  j 
With  17  Illustrations  and  3  Maps.  Crown  \ 
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Stevenson.  —  A  CHILD'S  GARDEN  OF 
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Tappan.  —  OLD  BALLADS  IN  PROSE. 

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30  Coloured  Pictures  and  numerous  Illus- 
trations in  the  Text.     Oblong  410.,  6s. 

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31  Coloured  Plates  and  numerous  Illus- 
trations in  the  Text.     Oblong  410.,  6s. 

Wemyss. — '  THINGS  WE  THOUGHT 
OF'  :  Told  from  a  Child's  Point  of  View. 
By  MARY  C.  E.  WEMYSS,  Author  of  'All 
About  All  of  Us  '.  With  8  Illustrations  in 
Colour  by  S.  R.  PRAEGER.  Crown  8vo., 
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The  Silver  Library. 

CROWN  8vo.     35.  6d.  EACH  VOLUME. 


Arnold's  ( Sir  Edwin)  Seas  and  Lands.    With 
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Bagehot's  (W.)  Biographical  Studies,     y.  6d. 
Bagehot's  (W.)  Economic  Studies,     y.  6d. 

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34        MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS. 


The  Silver  Library — continued. 


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Haggard's  (H.  R.)  Mr.  Meeson's  Will.  With 
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Haggard's  (H.  R.)  Nada  the  Lily.  With  23 
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Haggard's  (H.R.)  Dawn.  With  i6Illusts.  y.6d. 

Haggard's  (H.  R.)  The  People  of  the  Hist.    With 

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Haggard  (H.  R.)  and  Lang's  (A.)  The  World's 
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Jefferies  (R.)  The  Toilers  of  the  Field.  With 
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Kayo  (Sir  J.)  and  Malleson's  (Colonel)  History 
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Knight's  (E.  F.)  The  Cruise  of  the  '  Alerte ': 
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MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS.        35 


The  Silver  Library — continued. 


Knight's (E.  F.)  Where  Three  Empires  Meet:  a 

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Kostlin's  (J.)  Life  of  Luther.  With  62  Illustra- 
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Lang's  (A.)  Angling  Sketches.  With  20  Illustra- 
tions, y.  6d. 

Lang's  (A.)  Custom  and  Myth :  Studies  of  Early 
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Lang's  (A.)Cock  Lane  and  Common-Sense.  31. 6d. 

Lang's  (A.)  The  Book  of  Dreams  and  Ghosts, 

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Lang's  (A.)  A  Monk  of  Fife:  a  Story  of  the 
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Lang's  (A.)  Myth,  Ritual,  and  Religion.  2  vols.  75. 

Lees  (J.  A.)  and  Clutterbuck's  (W.  J.)  B.C. 
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Levett-Veats'  (S.)  The  Chevalier  D'Auriac. 
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Macleod's  (H.  D.)  Elements  of  Banking,    y.  6d. 

Marshman's    (J.    C.)    Memoirs   of    Sir  Henry 

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Mason  (A.  E.  W.)  and  Lang's  (A.)  Parson  Kelly. 

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Mill's  (J.  8.)  Political  Economy,    y.  6d. 
Mill's  (J.  S.)  System  of  Logic,    y.  6d. 

Milner's  (Oeo.)  Country  Pleasures :  the  Chroni- 
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Nansen's  (F.)  The  First  Crossing  of  Greenland. 

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Phillipps-Wolley's  (C.)  Snap :  a  Legend  of  the 
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Proctor's  (R.  A.)  Myths  and  Marvels  of  As- 
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Proctor's  (R.  A.)  Nature  Studies,    y.  6d. 

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Rossetti's  (Maria  F.)  A  Shadow  of  Dante,  y.  6d. 

Smith's  (R.  Eosworth)  Carthage  and  the  Cartha- 
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Stanley's  (Bishop)  Familiar  History  of  Birds. 

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Stephen's  (Sir  Leslie)  The  Playground  of  Europe 
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Stevenson's  (R.  L.)  The  Strange  Case  of  Dr. 
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Wood's  (Rev.  J.  G.)  Strange  Dwellings.  With 
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Angwin. — SIMPLE  HINTS  ON  CHOICE  \ 

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MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS.        37 


The  Fine  Arts  and  Music — continued. 


Huish,   Head,   and    Longman.— 

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40        MESSRS.  LONGMANS  &  CO.'S  STANDARD  AND  GENERAL  WORKS. 


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