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\.
6-
THE
Land of Sunshine
THE MAGAZINE OF
CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST
EDITED BY
CHARLES F. LUMMIS
Stapf — David Starr Jordan. Joaquin Miller. Theodore H. Hittell, Mary Hallock Foote.
Margaret Collier Graham. Charles Warren Stoddard. Grace Ellery Channing. John Vance
Cheney. Ina Coolbrith, William Keith. Dr. Washlngrton Matthews. Geo. Parlier
Winship, Frederick Webb Hodge, Charles F. Holder. Edwin Markham,
Geo. Hamlin Fitch. Chas. Howard Shinn, Wm. E. Smythe. T. S.
Van Dyke, Chas. A. Keeler, Louise M. Keeler, A. F. Harmer,
L. Maynard Dixon, Charlotte Perkins Stetson, Con-
stance Goddard Dubois. Batterman Lindsay,
Charles Dwight Willard, Elizabeth
and Joseph Grinnell,
Frederick Starr.
VOLUME XV
June, 1901, to December, 1901
Land of Sunshine Publishing Co.
LOS ANGELES. CAL.
f,:' . •. ^* .
r- I '
/
J
^ , : ^ 1 . / ^ -
s.
T -
- /9;/
Copyright, 190 1, by
Land of Sunshine Publishing Co.
The Land of Sunshine.
INDEX TO Vol. XV.
Acoma, illustrated, C. F. L 314-
A Week of Wonders, illustrated, Chas. F. L/ummis 315, 425 '-
Ark People of California, The, illustrated, Clara Vostrovsky 17
Basasiachic, Waterfall of , illustrated, Salom^ Cecil 141
Below Sea-Level, illustrated , Frances Anthony 22
Burgher's Wife, The (poem), Mary Austin 423
California "Gusher," A, Elizabeth Gerberding 242
California Statistics 49
Capistrano Mission, illustrated, Anna C. Field 127
Charra, The Little 110
Chetro Kettle, Ruins of, illustrated, C. F. L ... 425-
Cheyenne Conference, The, W. E. S 69
Costans6, Report of the California Expeditions of 1769, concluded 38*"^"^^
Dream-Child of the Mesa, The (story), Lamier Bartlett 150-
Early Western History — the California Expeditions of 1769
(Costans^). 38
Father Perea's Report on New Mexico in 1632 357, 465
Evening Star, painting by Wm. Keith 206
Fall Plowing (poem), Isaac Jenkinson Frazer 349
** Freaks" in Wild-Flowers, illustrated, Geo. F. Leavens 333
Geographical Peculiarities of California, Theodore H. Hittell 152
Guadalupe Wooing, A (story), Amanda Matthews 350
Hoodoos of Wyoming, The, illustrated, Earle V. Wilcox 209
How to Colonize the Pacific Coast, Wm. E. Smythe 171, 279, 383
How We Adjudicated the Water Rights of Wyoming, Fred Bond 73
Idaho, A New Plymouth in 77
Indian Paintings, Some, illustrated, "W. C. Frederick 223
Indian Baskets, illustrated, Carl Purdy 438
Indian Policy, A New, C. F. L 457
In Panama, illustrated, Tracy Robinson 113
In the Lion's Den (by the Editor) 50, 158, 261, 363, 470
In Western Letters, illustrated, C. F. L 139, 234^-
Irrigation, by the leading experts 61
Irrigation Laws, Proposed Reform in, by Government Experts.,. •199
Island of the Good Herb, The, illustrated, Henry S. Kirk 228
Ivory Crucifix, The (poem), Sharlot M. Hall 207
Ki-a-a, Ruins of, illustrated, C. F. L 425^
Landmarks Club, The 127, 157, 260, 362, 450
Le Conte, Joseph (poem), E. C. Tompkins 143
Le Conte, Joseph, portrait, 236, sketch, Victor Henderson 239
Mark Twain and the First NevadalLegislature, Mark Lee Luther 144
Midsummer Song (poem), Hilton R. Greer* 156
Mission Indian Exiles, The, Constance Goddard Du Bois 248 i
Mormonism, By its Head, Lorenzo Snow 252 ,
^^avajo Initiation, A, Dr. Washington Matthews 353 ,
One Acre Better Than 10,000, H. Dunham 177 !
One Christmas (story), L/illian Corbett Barnes 454 '
—Painted Desert, The (poem), Harrison Conrad 453 i
Pala, The Mission at, illustrated 422, 450
Panama Canal, The, illustrated, Tracy Robinson 4
Panama, Life in, illustrated, Tracy Robinson 113 I
Perea, Fray Estevan de, ** Verdadera Relacion" of New Mexico i
in 1632 357, 465
Peril of the Sierra Madre, The, illustrated, T. P. Lukeus 337 !
Perils of Water Monopoly, W. E. S 391 i
Pomo Indian Baskets and their Makers, illustrated, Carl Purdy... 439
Program for California, A, W. E. Smythe 487 '
^Pueblo Bonito, Ruins of, illustrated, C. F. L 425
Pueblo del Arroyo, Ruins of , C. F. L 425 !
Rochdale Cooperation in California, Prof. D. T. Fowler 180
She Dreams (poem), illustrated, Mary H. Coates 32
Sickle-Billed Thrush, The (poem), Lillian H. Shuey 3
Sierran Daisies (poem), Marian Warner Wildman 349
Sleepy Hollow, A Southwestern, illustrated, Anna Caroline Field. 127
Sonata Pathetique, The, painting by Wm. Keith 2
State and National Irrigation Policies.^W. E. Smythe 65
Struggle for Water, The, W. E. S 285
That Which is Written (reviews by the editor and C. A. Moody)
58, 266, 372, 478
Trobadour, The (poem), Denis A. McCarthy Ill
- Twentieth Century West, The, illustrated, conducted by Wm. E.
Smythe 61, 165, 271, 377, 485
Waterfall of Basasiachic, The, illustrated, Salom^ Cecil 141
*Week of Wonders, A, illustrated, Chas. F. Lummis 315, 425
^Western Letters, In, C. F. L 139, 234
When the Birds are Nesting, illustrated, Elizabeth Grinnell 27
White Otter, The (story), Neil Sheridan 33
-Workers for The West, illustrated 185
Articlbs of Locawtiks—
Alameda, illustrated, F. N. Delaney 189
Idyllwild, Saunterings at, illustrated, Kate Glessner
Carrithers 503
Resorts of Southern California, illustrated 80
San Joaquin County and Stockton, illustrated, Colvin B.
Brown 91
Santa Barbara, illustrated, Chas. Amadon Moody 401
Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, illus., Robt. A. Thompson 299
Tropic America, illustrated, H. E. Brook 508
Vol. XV, No.
Rlcbly
Illustrated
>
>
>
>
>
>
<A
>
^ THE LAND OF
SUNSHINE
CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST
EDITED BY CHAS. F. UUMMIS
■ a cents land op sunshine PUBLISHINS CO.. IHartMntM dk|
SUMMER RESORTS
-m
\
Vol. 16, NO. 1. LOS ANGCLES JULY. 1901
The Sickle-Billed Thrush.
Who is it calling: earl}*,
A whistle, a refrain.
The morning dawning darkly.
The bushes wet with rain ?
He saw the stars of morninfif
Behind the mists grow pale.
And then he whistled blithely
To wake the slumberint; vale.
A big, brown bird is sitting
There in the leafless brush ;
We know him by his long, queer beak,
. The bonnie curve-billed thrush.
He makes his fun so serious.
So earnest, yet so gay ;
The farmer and the school-boy
He greets upon their way.
It's "stir it, stir it, stir it."
" Dorothy, kiss me soon ; "
He's mocking every songster
He heard in sunny June —
The California thrasher.
The winsome mocking-bird —
I live a richer, gladder life,
Since I his voice have heard.
LAND OF SUNSHINE
The morning's dewy hedges.
The cloud-enveloped moon,
The chaparral, the shadows,
The thrasher's startling tune ;
A path all gray and gloomy,
A fleeting April rain,
A stealthy step to hear once more
That rapturous refrain.
The Panama Canal.'
OON after the beginnijig of General Grant's first
term as president, March 4th, 1869, he look
steps toward opening a ship canal at Panama.
He had crossed and re-crossed by the Chagres
route in earlier days, when his West Point
training had enabled him to form an intelligent
idea of the lay of the land. He selected his
friend General HurJbut of Illinois as United
^ States Minister to Bogota, and commissioned
him to negotiate a Canal Treaty with the
Colombian government. Early in the year 1870 the treatj'
was completed and signed by the commissioners, one of
whom on the part of Colombia was the late Dr. Justo
Arosemena, a native of Panama, and one of the most
enlightened and distinguished sons of Spanish America.
A copy was sent to Washington, where it was favorably
received by the President and his eminent Secretary of
State, Honorable Hamilton Fish, It was at once submitted
to the Senate, and so great was the confidence of President
Grant in its ratification that his brief message of transmis-
sion stated that the treaty was sent for approval, not a
word being said about its rejection. In fact', he seems to
have been altogether satisfied and sanguine.
The treaty itself was a remarkable document, as can be
seen by its perusal. It provided for the construction anil
maintenance of a canal at Panama, by the United States,
or by whatever party or parties the United States might
substitute and be responsible for. Provision was made for
the military protsction and control of the waterway by the
Government of the United States ; and the only proviso
that fell short of an absolute guarantee that a canal should
CH&GKBa HlVBK.
THE PANAMA CANAL. ?
be made and opened to the commerce of the world, was the
one that the surveys, to be made at the expense of the
United States, should declare the great work practicable.
It therefore looked as though everything was well ar-
ranged for a speedy joining of the Caribbean and the
Pacific.
But before action had been taken by the United States
Senate, word came from Bogota to the effect that the
Colombian Congress had dealt a deathblow to the negotia-
tions. The provisions of the treaty had been so modified
during the discussions which followed its submission to
Property of Amer. Cuntractlns and DreilEliiE Co. At Anchor In ChanreBRWer.
that body, that it was no longer possible to accept it.
Violent hostility prevailed among Colombian public men,
and the matter was dropped. Had the treaty been ratified,
there is no doubt that long ago there would have been a
canal at Panama.
The Nicaragua scheme was then taken up. Not to be
thwarted in his pet ambition. General Grant set his friend
Admiral Ammen to work, with Mr. Menocal as his able
and indefatigable lieutenant, and for thirty years the
propaganda of a Nicaragua canal has been diligently urged
upon the American people. A large amount has been
spent in surveys, and the work of construction was some
years ago actually begun, though soon suspended.
THE PANAMA CANAL. H
The world is familiar, more or less, with the great
Lesseps failure at Panama. The literature of the subject
would load a ship. The fact remains, however, not to be
gainsaid or disputed, that work has been done at Panama,
up to the present time (for operations have never entirely
ceased) representing: nearly or quite one-fourth of the en-
tire amount necessary.
The latest commission, under the direction of Admiral
Walker, has made its report, and for reasons other than
technical, Nicaragua has been favored ; these reasons being
the tangle existing between the French canal company and
Panama Canal CrTTiNO— Bab Obispo,
the government of Colombia; doubt as to a permanent
right of way ; uncertainty as to the selling price of the
French concession, etc. There is no real question as to the
superiority of the Panama route. It is less than fifty miles
in length, while that of Nicaragua is 190 miles. It is the
only place at which a tide level canal can ever be made. It
has the advantage of good harbors, and of a railroad in
operation along its line. As for climate, the rainfall, ac-
cording to official data, has an average of fifty inches less
per annum at Colon than at San Juan del Norte. In regard
to sanitation, the Panama Isthmus can certainly compare
favorably with Nicaragua.
;— Old Panaua (Hear
THE PANAMA CANAL. 15
To those who have sufficient interest in the subject of
comparative distances between the countries that will be
tributary to a canal, wherever it is made, the careful tables
compiled by competent authorities (among whom is Captain
W. L. Merry. United States Minister to Costa Rica and
Nicaragua) are respectfully recommended.
It is fortunate that Congress failed to pass a Nicaragua
canal bill at its last session. The delay will give chance
for arrangements mutually satisfactory to Colombia, to the
French company, and to the United States. There is no
Clayton-Bulwer dra^ron guarding that gateway, nor yet an
unacceptable Hay-Pau nee forte treaty to be rewritten and
wrangled over. There is, on the other hand, in full force,
the treaty of 1846, between the United States and New
Granada, now Colombia, under which the neutrality of the
Panama transit is "effectively guaranteed" by the former
government. California is deeply interested in having the
most serviceable canal that can be made, in the shortest time,
for the least cost, and in the best place. The Panama route
should therefore be adopted. Gen. Grant thought so thirty
years ago, and even untiring Senator Morgan would think
so now, were he thoroughly informed and unprejudiced.
Ijon ADBelM.
The Ark People of California.
CALIFORNIA is filled to the brim with curious
i!r and interesting things, both great and
^ small, both rich and poor, both real and
imitation, but there is one which is kept hidden
as far as possible from the Californian as well as
from the tourist, and that is the community of
Ark Dwellers in Stockton on the San Joaquin
river. The reason for this un-Californian atti-
tude lies in the fact that the people of Stockton
are strangely ashamed of the Ark People ;
they spwak of them to one another as " boister-
ous," and look upon them as a "nuisance," a "standing
disgrace "to a city rapidly gaining respectability. Time
and again they have endeavored to get rid of them, but in
vain ; the ark people have fought their own battles too
well ; until the Stockton people have ended by ostracizing
and ignoring this rapidly growing settlement.
If a stranger happens to wander not far from the busi-
ness portion of the town to the banks of one of the largest
sloughs of the San Joaquin, he is unprepared to find it
literally lined with arks or house-boats, and still more to
find that these house boats are not merely summer resi-
dences by any means, but permanent homes of a more or
less settled community. They are a decidedly picturesque
feature of an otherwise "civilized" country, agreeing only
in not being large, consisting of one. two, and at most of
18 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
three rooms, and having an extension at each end like ferry
boats. In every other respect they differ as much as th«
nationalities of the owners, who are of Dutch, German,
Scotch, English and American descent. Some of the arks
are low, for the sake of rapidity in travel, others, more
stationary, are high ; some are merely white-washed, with
small, rude windows and doors, others are built well and
gaily painted in white and green and blue ; some are spot-
lessly clean, others disgustingly dirty ; some are anchored
where the sun beats painfully down on them during the
summer months, others are found in pretty spots sheltered
by willows.
It is not religious or social fanaticism that has brought
about the establishment of this water colony, but the even
more potent factor that life in such a house-boat is wonder-
fully cheap. Fish and game are plentiful, and for fuel one
needs to be energetic only once a day— in the early morn-
ing— when large amounts of drift wood come floating
down the river. There is a fascination about the life too,
due to the freedom of the coming and going, that keeps
people attached to it even when they might live more com-
fortably on land. Thus there are several ark people who
own property in the town ; and one, a Scotchman, is esti-
mated to be worth $12,000 or $13,000.
But all poor people do not take naturally to this life. To
live happily as an arkman, certain characteristics of mind
A Grodp ov a
THE ARK PEOPLE.
are indispensable, particularly independence. One must
be satisfied to live alone, for stranj^e as it may seem, not
only is there no social intercourse between those who live
in Stockton and those who live on the arks, but there is
also no social intercourse among the ark people themselves.
"Are there any Germans among the arks ?" we <tsked of
one inhabitant. "Germans? oh, probably ; but I cannot
tell you, for I do not know many who live as I do." " You
are then a stranger ?" "Hardly; I have lived here some
seven years." There is only one thing that ever unites
them, and that is warfare against their common enemy,
the land people.
The first ark that we visited belonged to the dirty kind.
To get to the door it was necessary to walk down a long
plank and then jump a low fence on the ark itself. We
were warmly greeted. Ark life is one of leisure and that,
together with the scarcity of visitors, makes all who come
welcome. We sat down where we could find a seat, for
that was no very easy matter, the lack of outsiders being
evidently counterbalanced by the size of this particular
family at least. There was the husband and wife
and child — a very dirty child — there were two women
20 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
of no apparent relation to the others, and a grandfather
and a grandmother. While we were comparing the two
small rooms with the number of members in the family,
one and all of the latter launched forth into a praise of the
beauties of ark life. I..ater on wc found this satisfaction
with their lot quite universal among them. Not onlj' were
we told in each of the three arks which we visited that ark
life is superior to all other life, but the owners of each
individual ark no sooner had made our acquaintance than
they hastened to inform us that their own ark was the
largest and finest ark on the entire slough.
The little combined sitting- and bed-room in which we
found ourselves, and in which for obvious reasons we were
somewhat reluctant to linger long, had beside a terribly old
and torn carpet and the necessary articles of furniture, a
few pictures and a shelf of old books. "There's nothing
like reading," said the principal man of the house, point-
ing the latter out to us, " but the trouble with me is that I
already know too much." Evidently taking our silence for
consent, he proceeded to point out other treasures. "That,"
he remarked, among other things, pointing with an inde-
scribable air of pride to a faded chromo hanging above the
bureau, " is Shakespeare's cottage by the sea. Of course
you have heard of Shakespeare's cottage by the sea." We
bad not, but thought it wisest to conceal our ignorance.
We next visited one of the spotlessly clean arks, in
THE ARK PEOPLE. 21
which we found a neat-looking Scotchwoman preparing her
noonday meal. She also was gflad to see us. We wondered
whether she shared the aristocratic tendencies of her
neighbors, and inquired whether there was much social life
among the ark people. At this she turned up her nose.
*' We know scarcely any of them," she said ; '* we prefer to
choose our own company."
By the time that we came out we found a little man
waiting for us. He had found out, somehow or other, that
we were taking pictures, and he was very anxious that we
should take his ark, "the best one of all." This was just
the kind of an invitation that we wanted, and as we went
with him we were delighted to find that he was not only a
loyal ark resident but the originator of the arks themselves.
His ark belonged to the clean ones. It was almost painfully
clean, one felt, when one's eyes fell on the newspapers care-
fully spread over the bed to protect its white cover. Rows of
flower pots, which he told us he had watered daily since his
wife's death, stood on the wide porch. He informed us
that he was well to do, but that he added to his income by
loaning boats. Although he had lived on the slough for
some thirty years, he also did not know his neighbors, and
seemed as glad as the others had been to find some one to
listen to him. His story was an interesting one. He
came to San Francisco from Liverpool, around Cape Horn,
acting then as steward of the ship, a position in which he
had a good opportunity to learn something as to how the
vessel was built. In '62 he left San Francisco for Stock-
ton, where he conceived the idea of building a boat which
would also serve as his home. This boat cost him about
$200. Hunting and trapping paid well then on the San
Joaquin, and as it was not hard to make from $3 to $4 a
day, it was not long before the ark had paid for itself.
Some one came along who wanted to buy it, and he sold it
for what it had cost him. He built another and again sold
that. Gradually more and more hunters came in, and he
not only had employment making houses for them, but they
began to copy his pattern until the colony reached its
present size of about a hundred ark-boats.
Modesto, Cal.
Below Sea-Level:
_riS our journey from the Coloraiio Desert led
8 S "^ below sea-level there was no noticeable
v S difference in the aspect of the country.
* " There were mesquite trees and sand
dunes ; and the sandy stage-road was
just as crooked as it turned to right and
left to avoid them.
The first change to remind us that we
had come down into what was once a
part of the Gulf of California, was
hundreds of acres of tiny grayish-white
shells covering the ground like dirty snow. They varied
in size from a pinhead to a small grain of rice ; here and
Indian Gbahaiies, Alamo Bonito.
there were spots of others as large as kernels of corn, and
some mussel shells two inches long.
Bigfht miles brought us to Indio, and we had impercept-
ibly descended to twenty feet below sea-level. In our
geographies we had learned that a desert was a sandy
plain where nothing grew and it never rained ; and nowwe
must either unlearn this or consider that the name is un-
justly applied. Not only do things grow in a great part of
the Colorado Desert, but in the summer it rains, and with
more water this land would produce a great variety of
crops. Some artesian wells have been sunk. The Southern
Pacific R. R. has a flowing well at Walters which
throws fifty inches of water into a tank twenty feet high.
We learned also that a desert is not always all sand.
Below Walters— we were still going down — the soil is
BELOW SEA-LEVEL. 23
clay, and with every mile more and more alkaline. As this
increased, the growth of mesquite decreased, brush taking
its place, which in its turn ceased, and for some miles the
only growth was a curious bush without leaves. A branch
or stem was a series of joints looking like a string of
green, dew-covered wax beads, and was very easily
crushed.
Farther on, plant life ceased altogether. The salt and
alkali showed plainly on the surface, and selecting a camp
site for the night was not really easy. There was no
262 Feet Bel,ow Sba-Lkvel. iNur Salton. Cal.)
choice of location except to find a place dry enough. Here
was the level we had believed to be a characteristic of the
whole desert.
Beyond us was the dried up "Salton Sea." Its surface
is as white and dazzling as though covered with snow. Its
middle is three hundred feet below sea-level. The road
passes through the edge at an altitude of minus 262 feet ;
the beaten track is firm, but stepping outside one sinks
into the soft ground beneath the salt with the same sensa-
tion as though stepping into half-frozen, snow-covered
mud.
Looking toward the middle of the salt basin it was im-
possible to know how near the derricks and buildings of
the salt-works were. We saw a boat, with a number of
men rowing it, go out on the sea, and before we reached
Salton it was coming back. It proved to be not the kind
of boat we wanted to row in. It was a flat-car on a track,
with an engine to pull it. The men who bad appeared to
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
be rowing were standing up leaning on their shovels, and
by a peculiar refraction of light the engine had not ap-
peared at all.
Our next objective point was the ranch of " Fig Tree
John," on the west side of the valley. At noon, while con-
sidering which branch road to take round the head of the
lake, we asked our way of an Indian who had just come
across on horseback.
"Me Pee-chee John" was his reply. When he learned
that we knew his sister at Crafton he at once invited us to
stay with him, and we accepted. Returning from Salton
he overtook us, pointed out his ranch, and then went on.
When we had gone what seemed far enough we could see
no sign of a settlement, and should have thought that we
were going into a wilderness ; but just then we perceived
a faint smoke rising straight ahead. Soon we made out
the yellow leaves of a cottonwood tree — then the green of
a palm tree, and soon, under the smoke, the tule-thatched
roof of the house. There were several buildings of brush
with tule roofs. Their color is so much like that of the
soil and the general brown of most vegetation during the
winter that one might even be looking and pass them by
but for a smoke or the movement of an animal to call
closer attention.
Fig Tree John himself met us at the gate. He assigned
us one of his brush houses, brought us an arm-load of the
finest dry mesquite wood, showed us how to make the fire
in the middle of the one room, and pointed out the manner
in which the smoke rose to the ridge pole and then went
BELOW SEA-LEVEL. 2S
out at the open end. Througfh it all his manner was as
hospitable as any white man's could be. Our house was
built without boards or nails ; and, though open at the east
end and without a floor, was a good shelter from the wind
even in those first days of January.
At the four corners and in the middle of each end posts
were set in the ground. The tpps were forked, and in the
forks were laid the plates and ridgepole. The sides and
end were filled in with straight desert brush, the roof
thatched with tules and all fastened with strips of rawhide
and palm leaves.
Fig Tree John is known by that name because he is the
distinguished owner of an orchard of fig trees. His Span-
ish name is Juan Razon, but his Indian name is a secret.
In the evening he, with his wife and baby, visited us, and
nest morning he breakfasted with us.
Williamson, in his report in '54, mentions stopping at
this place, and relates some of the legends told him by
other Indians living here then. We led Fig Tree John to
talk about them. When we came to that about the floods
and loss of life he became excited and ended in mixed
Spanish and Knglish. "Yes! yes! in one night came
much water and killed many Indians, many Indians !"
Evidences of this having once been a part of the Gulf of
California still exist. The ancient shore-line is distinct on
the mountains, a mile and a half south of Fig Tree John's,
and 175 feet higher, and is identical with the line of the
horizon to the left and miles beyond. AH that was under
26 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
water is darker than that above. The pebbles and
sand are in water-lines along the old beach, and vary in
firmness under the feet, as do the sands at the seashore.
A hill of rocks stands alone ; its top was once an island.
Below the line every rock is covered with a brownish-gray
incrustation from two to twenty inches thick, and resemb-
ling coral in its fullness of holes. Indian carvings in the
face of some of the larger rocks show faintly ; but there is
nothing by which to tell their age or meaning.
Next day we started northward on the dim and little
used road that had first been traveled by Williamson's sur-
veying party forty-five years before.
This day was especially productive of the conditions for
mirages, and we saw three remarkable ones, by which we
realized that seeing is not always believing.
What we knew to be mesquite trees in the sand assumed
the shape and beauty of a row of majestic eucalyptus trees
beside a broad blue stream.
A white clifF far away was tranformed into a fine white-
towered and turreted castle on the side of a gray mountain
A long freight train four miles distant was nothing more
nor less than a great humping caterpillar with a big black
head and a bright red tail.
At Alamo Bonito we found some of the real Indian
granaries. They are like immense birdsnests, three to
four feet across and two to three feet deep, set up on plat-
forms. They are made of limber brush twined and twisted
round and round ; when filled they are thatched with tules
and mud, and are good storehouses for beans, mesquite
pods or gfrain.
After passing the scattered villages of Agua Dulce,
Toros and Martinez the road was so bad we left it for a
better one, leading across toward Indio ; but we were no
better oflf, for it ended at Mesa Grande. As we came up,
everybody scampered out of sight to peek at us through
cracks and holes, but soon they were all out again listening
to what conversation we were able to make. Our road
from here was only a trail ; for miles we labored along
with one horse and two wheels in it while the others went
first up and then down over humps and in hollows. We
saw no indication of a road and had no idea where it was ;
but, knowing that an Indian trail always leads to some-
thing, in mixed hope and disgust we kept on. At last we
came to the real road which we followed for three days till
we reached home. Tired, yet rested by the change, we felt
repaid for all exertions and that we had spent a profitable
two weeks. Every day had brought new experiences or
something special to remember.
Galenat Kas.
27
When The Birds Are Nesting.
BY KLtZABKTH QRINHMLL.
IN an area about fifty yards square adjoining our
home, are enacted the incidents and scenes de-
scribed. No home in this land of sunshine need
be without similar associations. To plant a tree
or shrub is to invite the birds. But tree and shrub
must grow. Here are hints for those who bide
the growing : A pile of fruit tree prunings, to
be had for the asking and the bringing, may be
made a great inducement. Boughs zigzag^ little
sticks interlacing, an uneven mesh of knotted fila-
ment usually condemned to the back yard gehenna, offer untold at-
tractions to many of our birds. In this partial shelter they play
hide-and-seek with their threaded, shadows, feed upon insects which
seek the spot for the same reasons as themselves, or '* sit and think,"
as birds appear to do, at intervals during the day. If it's sufficiently
dense, they may even sleep at night in the brush pile. To induce
them to build, at nesting time, about a home whose vines have yet to
grow, blue gum or pepper boughs thickly foliaged, fastened about
the eaves or above the balcony, will prove acceptable to the linnets
at least, perchance to the mockers. Berry boxes or cigar boxes nailed
high up under the north eaves of house or stable tempt the phoebe
birds. Of course the litter of brush-pile and dead foliage may hor-
rify the lover of immaculate surroundings, but, perish the birds !
For be it known that our birds despise the presence of the landscape
gardener, with his lawn mower, and clipping machines, and pruning
hooks. They fly from his art as from a plague, and hie them to the
wild, helter-skelter, half-untidy dooryard of the less artistic but more
fervent bird lover.
One November day, when the winds played havoc among our trees,
a great pine was pushed from its moorings and leaned far to the
south. Its roots like a many fingered hand lost clutch of the soil,
and pointed reproachfully skyward. "Cut it up,** said the wood-
chopper. "It is only fit to bum. and pine makes good lire wood.
The roots are especially rich.**
A mocking-bird alighted on what had been its tufted apex and sent
regretful glances through the bearded boughs. That glance gave us
3. suggestion. A house-mover came. A cluck to his horses and a
click of the pulley chain, and the last reluctant earth-born tendril
let go its hold. The great root was severed from the main trunk a
few feet from the point of incorporation, and lo, a thing of beauty !
Of tint like the deepest redwood, elbowed, gnarled, with bark like
bits of raveled silk, this underground octopus was just what we had
wanted. The stem was buried, holding the root aloft, in the front
yard ten feet from the window. Visitors lifted their hands in won-
der. The birds also wondered. From wondering they ventured, and
from venturing they loved. An Australian pea vine was planted at
its base and soon crowned its pinnacled summit.
This leafless tree became our Bird's Commercial House. Among
the roots we tangled all sorts of nesting materials, big and little
strings, last year's fluffy pampas plumes, lichens from arroyo witch-
nooks, strips of rag, soft and old, hair combings left over from the
stable currycomb, and — ^happiest thought of all — white, downy, sur-
geon*s cotton. Now this cotton has turned the head of every bird at-
tracted to it. The earliest to nest was the hummer, and she had the
choice of materials. Nothing was suitable until she was ready for
the lining. She poised above the cotton with slender black beak, and
tore the gossamer apart like strands of spider*s web. So fascinated
28 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
mas she by the new fabric that she lined the neat far above the riin.
and rebuilt the outer to fit the inner. With the cotton web she min-
g:led bits of pampas feathers.
Next in turn came the bushtit. The smallest of all the birds save
the hummer ; this little tit showed us how she can form the largest
nest of any in comparison with the size of the builder. Lihe Ihc
hummer, she used little of our material until ready for the lining.
Then she lost her wits over the cotton. She pulled it to bits and
looked to see it fly away in the wind. She thrust her head far into
the snowy billow of it and covered herself. She flew with it drip-
ping from her beak, and left a trail from branch to branch of the
nearest tree. She snatched it from the linnet if this bird essayed to
take a portion. She packed it into the bottom of her pocket nest far
atiove the usual limits of the lining. She crept up and down the out-
side and peeped in at the round doorway with keenest satisfaction.
She chatted about that cotton to her little gray lord, who also made
hearty comments. But alas for the " best laid schemes." It was ab-
sorbent cotton : There came a March rain and blew directly in at
the open door of that bushtit's nest. In a few hours we knew it was
WHEN THE BIRDS ARE NESTING. 29
dcitertcd. With g'uilty speculations we looked in and beheld three
little unclothed babies lying snut{ in a pool of rain water.
That was a year ag'o, but Madame Bushtit still carries the cotton
at nesting' time, though we substituted cotton battin); for the absorb-
ent kind. A yellow warbler was induced to neat on the grounds,
from the pine root bait we set. She took cotton only, and day by
day in a. crotch of the pepper the little white pile ^rew and spread
out, its extreme whiteness contrasting well with the lemon yellow
of the beautiful bird. When it was done she lined the cup with fj^rey
hairs from the combings of a certain lady who will not waste so
trivial a thing. If the birds want it, give it to them I Time is so
kind to turn one's brown hair white to make the lining of a yellow
warbler's nest!
The mockers and the towhees each take what they can find in the
commercial house, excepting the cotton. They go dragging strings
and white rags across the grass, looking behind (hem for a. possible
end, and trying to manage altogether too much at a time.
Sweet little black-headed phoebe, who would come right in at the
4 MODEKN "I.BA
30 LANO OF SUNSHINE.
door after stray house flies but for the wire screens — she cares for
nothing' at the pine store. She wants mud. Wc have not sect) more
than one nest nnder the same caves, though we have set our cigar
box traps year by year. Phoetie drives away the swallows if they
chance along, and even her own people are repulsed. She has built
her house low under the north eaves for years. We leave the hydrant '
adrip on purpose for phuebe. But it is not mud alone that allures
her. The ground is full of little rootlets that travel long distances
for a drink and emerge at the surface greedy for the precious moist-
ure. Phoet>e mixes the rootlets with the mud and so makes a re-
spectable mortar that lasts. She began lining the nest with bits
from the jute door-mat. We raveled the ends on purpose, of course.
Nothing that birds can have possible use for is thrown into the fire
at our house. We thought this jute stuff a triHe harsh, so we threw
down some fur from a gtiztly bear skin. Phuebe liked the looks of
!AK. IN FOUB OF FlC TsHI
WHEN THE BIRDS ARE NESTING. 31
it and was swinging her usually slow g'ait close to the ground when
a flock of intermediate sparrows caught sight of it. Now these
visiting sparrows nest far north where grizzly bear nest-lining may
be picked in any quantity from tree trunks where the moulting
animals have rubbed. Either the memory of the sparrows was
roused at the sight, or they forgot for the moment they were far
from their nesting place. They made a dash for the familiar brown
fur. They pecked mouthfuls of it, and dropped it, picked it up and
tossed it. Then phoebe gave a wail, the usual plaintive cry which
she imagines is a song, and there came a hand to hand fight for the
fur. The sparrows retreated to the fence where they talked the
matter over.
At this writing, March 8, phoebe is brooding above three shirtless
infants, on the fifth-floor flat under the stable ea ves. Year by year
she makes a new layer of adobe, loving the spot, though we handle
the birdlings, while she nips at our shoulders and hair. She knows
we will not harm them. One time the linnet stole the nest when
phoebe wasn't looking and laid her own eggs in it. Phoebe used all
the terms of the law to oust her rival but linnet wouldn't budge.
Phoebe brought her husband, and together they pulled at linnet's
shoulder, to no avail. Old man phoebe left the scene in disgust,
while mother phoebe had to wait her turn for the next possession.
The phcebcs' nest is always of dark stuff, as also is the only nest
of the black-headed grosbeak we have seen in our grounds. This
beautiful singer lingered about till mid-summer and then concluded
to stay the year out. By being out among the trees in advance of
the first sunbeam we discovered the nest in an elbow of the fig-tree.
It was made of dark little sticks, or last year's stems of fig leaves^
and so transparent that we could see the eggs distinctly while look-
ing up from beneath. Not a bit of soft lining, just black sticks laid
criss-iCross. It was as if the builder knew that, being mid-summer
and in the most delightful climate in the world, ventilation was the
sanitary order.
The oriole comes early, examining the tender new leaves of the
frost-lritten banana, regretfully leaving them for the blue gum, after
satisfying herself that they are too immature for her hammock. The
banana leaves will ripen in time for the next brood. In the blue gum
she built a lean-to by the side of last year's nest, and attached to it,
of the palm fiber, which is her delight, and which we often strip for
her and lay in tempting spread on our commercial counter. The
present addition to her previous nest is yellow and fresh while that of
last year is Weather beaten and mildewed.
Except September, October and November, every month in the
year is nesting time with us, When the late peaches turn their
rosiest cheek to the autumn sun, and the almond husk opens its pale
lips, then are the structures which were so lately the center of solici-
tude tenantless and neglected. Old birds in passing take no notice of
them and the hungry juveniles pay no visible heed. What care they
for cradles, now that their sole cry is the universal ** Bread and
butter, please ?" Baby zephyrs nap on the worn-out lining, and the
rain runs its slim fingers through the parting meshes. Even the
domestic feline, who was wont to inquire into the heart of every
bunch of grass and twigs, no longer wastes time in study of the nest-
ing habits of birds. She will resume her investigations next year,
provided she falls not a victim to the single barrel Remington behind
the door.
Pasadena, Cal.
Plioto. by Lee Miiorelinase, PendleK
She Dreams
She dreams all day out in the sun.
And gathers to her, one by one,
Each bygone season ; heat and snow
From dim wild glade and bold plateau
She calls and counts them all, and none
Escape her beck, none does she shun ;
Of days wee-tee-tash, — long ago
She dreams.
Snug in a brilliant blanket spun
From finest wool ; her warm thoughts run
In channels weird, till phantoms flow
In stirring deeds of friend and foe ;
Of times and scenes that now are done
crni. cai. She dreams.
The White Otter.
Y," said the captain of the " Jane
Marie," " the man that shoots the
White Otter digs his own grave."
"The White Otter?" I answered.
"There is no such thing."
"Oh, ain't they 1" said the captain of
the " Jane Marie."
She was a sea-otter hunter of twenty
tons, the " Jane Marie," as handy a little fore-and-after as
ever beat about the Santa Barbara Channel Islands in pur-
suit of that rare and valuable animal whose pelt brings an
almost fabulous price from furriers. She had caught the
slant of west wind that always blows down channel on
summer afternoons, off San Miguel island, and was run-
ning now to make the strait between Santa Rosa and Santa
Cruz islands, and so to square away for San Nicolas, where
it was reported that game was plenty. She was making
good weather of it, too, although the breeze was strong ;
wing and wing, with both jibs set, and every inch draw-
ing. The captain was at the wheel, as he generally was
in the daytime, and her crew of four men and two hunters
were all stretched on the deck aft, smoking and soaking
the wann sunshine into themselves, probably in compensa-
tion for past and future wettings, when they followed their
hazardous calling in the heavy surf that rages always
about those Channel islands. For the sea otter is a wary
beast, and getting scarce as wary, and must be followed in
small boats — and shot from them, too, tossing up and down
on the waves — right into the foaming surf through which
he chases his own prey.
I had been taken a passenger on the "Jane Marie," by
special favor, and after I had been days on board, and my
tobacco had been found to be of the best and offered with-
out taint of patronage, I had also been admitted to a
species of toleration by these hardy otter hunters. The
* Jane Marie" was making good weather of it, and the
captain luffed her to meet the green seas that came rolling
through the Santa Rosa strait. A whale was tumbling
among the waves at a little distance, clumsily, and the
seas broke upon his brown back when it showed above the
surface as though he had been a bit of a lee shore gone
adrift, and the whale-birds flew screaming above the masts
of the schooner. Down to windwalrd we could see a file of
great pelicans lazily flapping their way toward their home
on the crags of Anacapa island.
3^ LAND OF SUNSHINE,
»(
((
The captain of the Jane Marie" luflFed to meet another
gfreen sea, and then he said again, but with more delibera-
tion, pulling his black pii>e out of his mouth to be used as
an aid to emphatic gesticulation, ** Oh, ain't they 1"
'* Why, no," I answered. " Who ever heard of a White
Otter?"
I had discovered, early in our acquaintance, that the way
to the captain's heart was by judicious contradiction, but it
must be most judicious. I went no farther, therefore, than
the remark above set down.
**Why, I'll tell you, young man," the captain said to
this, laying down his course, so to say, with the black pipe,
as he went on. ** There's a White Otter lives on Anacapa
island, in a cave. And the man that shoots it digs his own
grave. You remember Tony Garcia, Bill ?"
*' Aye," growled one of the swarthy hunters, lying on his
back in the sun.
Well, Tony knowed. Ton}^ could 'a' told you."
And where is Tony now ?" I asked, respectfully.
" Well, I dunno," and the captain smiled grimly. " All
that we found of him is buried up by the Mission in Santa
Barbara."
*'Oh; he is dead?"
*' I believe you. Dead 's a mackerel."
'* What killed him?"
** How do I know what killed him? He shot the White
Otter. That's all I know. Eh, Bill ? "
"And that's enough too," growled Bill, taking the pipe
out of his mouth and turning his back to the sun, by way
of getting warmed through. **But I'd like a chanst at
him myself, jist the same."
No ? Would you, though. Bill ?" asked the captain.
Would I ? Jist try me, that's all."
Bill relapsed into warm silence, and the captain smoked
for a season, which I was careful not to interrupt. I knew
the weather signs. Then he took the black pipe out of his
mouth and said, very slowly, watching the tumbling water
all the time. " Well, I dunno. Tony Garcia was as good
a hunter and as quick a shot as ever I see. He never
missed an otter, shot 'em in the head every pop, an' seals
was barn doors to him. Well, as I was a-tellin' you, Tony
shot the White Otter. That was the last o' him."
There was another interval of silence, then he went on :
I suppose from what you said jist now, you never heard
of the White Otter. Most people never did. Otters is
mostly brown, though lookin' black in the surf, an' occa-
sional you'll find an old one with the tips of its fur turned
gray. But a real white otter is rare. Some says they ain't
(C
it
(i t
Ci 4
THE WHITE OTTER. 35
no snch thing: — not gfreenhorns, like you, but real otter-
hunters — ^but all the men that ever hunted among these
islands knows better. The' is a White Otter lives clost by
a cave on the west end of Anacapa, an' it comes out in the
channel, too, fishin', odd times. Well, if that otter's been
shot wunst, it's been shot fifty times, an' always the man
that shoots it digs his own grave. But he don't never git
the otter."
Did you ever see it, captain?" I ventured.
I was with Tony when he shot it. He was one o' my
hunters. That was in the season o' '73. We made a good
year, at San Nicolas mostly, an' was beatin' up around
Anacapa more to say we had taken in all the islands than
because we wanted more skins, when it happened. We
was off the west end of the island, an' I was about to
square away for Santa Barbara, the wind being fair, when
Tony, who was a-layin' on the deck a-roUin' a cigarette
says to me: *Cap, ain't it right about here somewhere the
White Otter uses ?' ^
*' 'Yes,' says I. ' About here, an' as fur away as Santa
Rosa channel.'
But ain't his home here ? ' says Tony.
Right in that cave there,' says I. We was a-layin'
clost in, an' you could see the black hole down by the
water. There wasn't a breaker on the lee side of the island
at that time of the day, and the sea was smooth as glass,
with just an easy swell, an' the water was clear.
" *Well, Cap,' says Tony, 'it 'd be a great thing to cap
our catch with a snowy skin. I'm a-goin' to have a try for
the White Otter.'
'"Better let him alone,' I says. ' You know the cost.'
" ' Damn the cost,' says Tony. ' I want that skin.'
"When a man's hunters wants to hunt, he lets 'em.
Well, we lowefed the boat, an' Tony took his rifle an' we
rowed in toward the island. I give my mate the wheel,
because I always went along in the boat, and told him to
keep her off an' wait for us. It ain't nothin' but a rock,
that Anacapa, an' right where that cave was it rose out of
the deep water clear five hundred feet before there was a
ledge, a seagull could perch on. We rowed straight in, the
swell liftin' us an' helpin' us on — and, by God, right in the
mouth of the dark cave we see a white siwt movin' on
the swell, risin' an' fallin', as the water rose an' fell, an'
now an' then makin' a little splashin'. Tony was a-siandin'
in the bow, an' he saw the white spot first. He motioned
us to go slow, an' we went creepin' in, closter an' closter,
the oars scarcely makin' a sound in the water. Then Tony
motioned us to stop rowin'. We held her there while he
36 LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
took aim, slow an' deliberate. He shot. We saw a great
splashin' at the mouth of the dark cave, a great splashin',
and the white water turned red.
*' 'By God, I've got him I ' yelled Tony, jumpin' up an'
down in the bow. ' Pull, boys I Grod damn you I Pull,
pull I '
"We pulled for all we knew, an' sure enough, the water
at the mouth of the cave was all bloody, an' there was a
streak of blood leading toward the dark inside, but we
couldn't see nothin' of the White Otter. We even rowed
into the cave as fur as we could, an' further than the day-
light went, but the game wasn't there, an' a shelf of rock
brought us up short.
*' * I tell you, I got him ! I see him go in here I ' cried
Tony, almost foamin' at the mouth, he was so mad. *Damn
my soul if I'm a-goin' to be fooled by no otter. I'm a-goin'
in after him.'
** Before any of us could stop him, he jumped out on the
shelf o' rock, and was making his way along in. The cave
got narrower as it went in, an' a good climber could worm
his way above the water, but it was a scary place, an' the
tide filled it at high water: I shouted to Tony to come
back, but he only laughed an' swore he would have the
White Otter. We couldn't see him, but we could hear him
in the cave scramblin' over the wet rocks, an' sendin back
double the noi^e he made, in echoes.
"Well, presently, that noise stopped, an' there was
silence. It was beginnin' to git cold in the cave, an' my
backbone felt 's if sumbody was a-rubbin' bits of ice along
it. We tried shoutin' to him, but such fiendish shouts
came back that that was worse than the silence. I thought
I better back out into the sunshine to wait for him, and
was jist a-givin' the word, in a whisper, when there came
out of the dark hole in front of us a cry so Scary that the
men drove their oars into the water an' sent the boat a
hundred yards ofF shore before I could stop 'em. Then I
give 'em a cussin', an' we went back an' shouted into the
cave, an' rowed in 's fur 's we could. We didn't see
nothin', an' we got no answer but the echoes.
"The next ebb tide brought out his body. There was
blue marks about the neck, an' the face had a look on it
that made us want to keep ft covered until we handed it
over to the Coroner at Santa Barbara."
One of the sailors had arisen and gone forward at the
conclusion of the story. He was holding on by the flying-
jib stay, and he shouted: "Hi, Bill I git your rifle an'
come here."
Bill, the otter hunter, sprang to his feet, went below and
THE WHITE OTTER. 37
secured his Sharp's rifle, and rushed forward fixing a shell
in the breech. We had all gone forward, indeed, but the
skipper, who still sat smoking at the wheel. The man in
the bow was pointing straight ahead of the schooner, and
there, not fifty yards away, playing in the waves like a
dog, was a snow-white otter. Bill passed the man who
had called him. He crept out upon the jib boom to its ex-
treme end, steadying himself by the ropes, and stood there
with one arm wrapped about the halliard as the schooner
dipped her nose into the seas. The White Otter played
ahead of him, like a dog, and we watched him breathless
as he sighted for a shot. It was snap shooting, at best,
but wonderfully clever. The rifle spoke, and the White
Otter sprang half out of water, leaving a crimson stain in
the waves.
"Got him, by God I " shouted Bill.
Then, even as he turned to make his way along the boom
to the deck, letting go of the halliard for a moment to
swing the gun to his left hand, a green sea caught and
pooped the 'Jane Marie." We were all thrown forward, •
catching at what we could, and as I fell I saw the skipper,
high above me, up to his waist in water. Her nose was
driven down into the sea. The sails slatted. The jib
halliard parted, and the sail came down with a run. Then
she slowly lifted up her nose again, and as I struggled to
my feet I saw that the man Bill was gone from the jib
txxmi. JMst at the moment, it did not occur to me what
had happened. I made my way back to the skipper, who
was turning her wheel like mad, and shouting orders that
to me were perfectly unintelligible. Everything was ship-
shape again in ten minutes, and the captain slowly cleaned
the salt water out of his pipe and lighted it.
"I see him go down as the sea drove her over the spot
where he was pitched off," he said, slowly, " an' they was
a white streak goin' down alongside of him, an' fastened
onto him. He won't never come up no more."
And, although we cruised about the place until sunset,
he never did.
Venlnra, C»l.
38
Early California History.
THE EXPEDITIONS OF 1769.
[conci^udkd]
The Soldiers of the Garrison of the Calif or nias — of whom justice
and equity obligee us to say that they toiled infinitely in this Bzpedi-
tion — use two sort of arms, offensive and defensive. The defensive
are the Cuera [leather jacket] and the Adarga [shield] . The first,
whose make is like that of a coat without sleeves, is composed of six
or seven thicknesses [az^s, for hazes} of white skins of Deer, tanned
[ag'amuzadas] , impenetrates to the arrows of the Indians, as they
are not discharged from very near. The Adarga is of two thick-
nesses of Bullhide, raw. It is managed with the left arm, and with
it lances or arrows are deflected, the Trooper defending himself and
his Horse. They use, beside the aforesaid, a species of apron
[delantal] of leather, fastened to the pommel of the saddle with a
fall to each side, which they call ** armas" or defenses, which cover
their thighs and legs so as not to be hurt when running in the
Woods [Monte] . Their offensive weapons are the lance, which they
manage dextrously on Horseback ; the broadsword, and a short
Escopeta [flintlock musket] which they carry thrust into and made
fast in its sheath. They are Men of much endurance and long-suf-
fering under fatigue ; obedient, resolute, agile ; and we do not hesi-
tate to say they are the best Troopers in the world, and of those
Soldiers who best earn the Bread of the August Monarch whom they
serve.
It [must be] well considered that the marches of these Troops,
with such a Train and with such embarrassments thro' unknown
Lands and unused paths, could not be long ones : leaving aside the
other cause which obliged them to halt and camp early [in the after-
noon]— that is to say, the necessity of exploring the land one day
for the next, so as to regulate them [the marches] according to the
distance of the watering-places and to take in consequence the
proper precautions ; setting forth [again] on special occasions in
the evening, after having given water to the Beasts in that same
hour, upon the sure information that in the following stretch there
was no [water] or that the watering place was low, or the Pasture
scarce.
The restings were measured by the necessity, every four days,
more or less, according to the extraordinary fatigue occasioned by
the greater roughness of the road, the toil of the Pioneers, or the
wandering-off of the Beasts which were missing from the Horse-
herd and [which] it was necessary to seek by their tracks. At
other times, by the necessity of humoring the Sick, when there were
any — and with time there were many who yielded up their strength
to the continued fatigue, the excessive heat and cruel cold.
But the greatest risk of these Voyages, and the enemy most to be
dreaded, is this same Caballada [horse-herd], without which, in-
deed, the [voyage] could not be made. In a Country they do not
know, these Animals frighten themselves by night with incredible
facility. To stampede them (in the phrase of this Lrand), it is enough
for them to discover a Coyote or Fox. A Bird which passes flying,
the dust which the wind flings — these are capable of terrifying them
and making them run many leagues, precipitating themselves over
Barrancas and Precipices, without any human effort availing to re-
strain them. Afterward, it cost immense toil to gather them again, and
it is not always attainable. Those that have not died by falling down
precipices, or crippled themselves in their impetuous runaway [car-
reruj lit. race] remain of no service for much time. But this Bxpedi-
EAFa.Y CALIFORNIA HISTORY, 39
tion did not ez];)erience serious backsets by the like casualty, thanks
to the care and vigilance which were always observed ; for altho'
on some occasions the animals were stampeded, no fatality or damage
followed, because it [the stampede] was of short duration.
In the form and according to the method related, the Spaniards
executed their marches ; traversing immense Lands, more fertile and
more pleasing [alegres] in proportion as they penetrated more to the
North. All in general are peopled with a multitude of Indians, who
came out to meet them and in [some] parts accompanied them from
one stage [of the journey] to the next ; a Folk very docile and
tractable [mansa]^ chiefly from San Diego onward.
The Indians in whom was recognized more vivacity and industry
are those that inhabit the Islands and the Coast of the Santa Barbara
Channel. They live in Pueblos [villages] whose Houses are of
spherical form in the fashion of a half Orange, covered with Rushes
[JSnea]. They are up to 20 varas [55 feet] in diameter. Bach House
contains three or four Families. The Hearth is in the middle, and
in the top of the House they leave a vent or chimney to give exit for
the smoke. In nothing did these Gentiles give the lie to the affa-
bility and good treatment which were experienced [at their hands]
in otiier times [1602] by the Spaniards who landed upon those Coasts
with the Greneral Sebastian Vizcayno. They are of good figure and
aspect. Men and Women ; very much g^ven to [anti^'os de\ painting
and staining with red ochre their faces and bodies. They use great
headdresses [penachos] of feathers, and some banderillas [small
darts] which they bind up amid their hair, with various trinkets and
beads of Coral of various colors. The Men go entirely naked, but in
time of cold they sport [gasian] some long capes of tanned skins of
Nutrias [otters or muskrats indifferently, in the Southwest], and some
mantles made of the same skins cut in long^trips, which they twist
in such manner that all the fur remains outside ; then they weave
these strands one with another, forming a weft, and give it the pat-
tern referred to.
The Women go with more decency, girt about the waist with
tanned skins of Deer which cover them in front and behind more
than half down the leg, and with a mantelet Icapolillo] of Nutria
over the body. There are [some of them] with good features.
These are [the Indian women] who make the trays and vases of
rushes*, to the which they give a thousand different forms and grace-
ful patterns, according to the uses to which they are destined,
whether it he for eating, drinking, guarding their seeds, or other
ends ; for these Peoples do not know the use of earthenware as those
of San Diego use it.
The Men work handsome trays of wood, with firm inlays of coral
or of bone ; and some vases of much capacity, closing at the mouth,
which appear to. be made with a lathe — and with this machine they
would not come out better hollowed nor of more perfect form. They
gpive the whole a luster which appears the finished handiwork of a
skilled Artisan. The large vessels which hold Water are of a very
strong weave of rushes \junco] pitched within ; and they give them
the same form as our ttnigas [water jars].
To eat the Seeds which they use [gastan] in place of Bread, they
toast them first in great trays, putting among the Seeds some pet>-
bles or small stones heated until red ; then they move and shake the
tray so it may not bum ; and getting the Seed sufficiently toasted they
grind it in mortars or almireces of stone [almirez is a brass mortar J.
Of these mortars there are [some] of extraordinary size, as well
wrought as if they had had for the purpose the best steel tools
*BaUaa y vatijaa dtfunco: referrinff, of coarse, to the now famous and costly Cali-
fornia Indian baskets.
^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
[herramtenias] . The constancy, attention to trifles, and labor which
they employ in finishing* these pieces are well worthy of admiration.
[The mortars are] so appreciated among themselves that for those
who dying leave behind such handiworks, they are wont to place
them over the spot where they are buried, that the memory of their
skill and application may not be lost.*
They inter their dead. They have their Cemeteries within the
very Pueblo. The funerals of their Captains they make with great
pomp, and set up over their bodies some rods or poles, extremely
tall, from which they hang a variety of utensils and chattels which
were used by them. They likewise put in the same place some great
planks of Pine, with various paintings and figures, in which without
doubt they explain the exploits and prowesses of the Personage.
Plurality of wives [mugeres] is not lawful among these Peoples.
Only the Captains have a right to marry two. In all their Pueblos the
attention was taken by a species of Men who lived like the Women,
kept company with them, dressed in the same garb, adorned them-
selves with beads, pendants, necklaces and other Womanish adorn-
ments, and enjoyed great consideration among the people. The
lack of an Interpreter did not permit [us] to find out what class
of Men they were, or to what Ministry they were destined ; tho'
all suspect a defect in sex, or some abuse among those gentiles.
In their Houses the Married couples have their separate beds on
platforms elevated from the ground. Their mattresses are some
simple Petates or Mats of Rushes, and their pillows are of the same
Petates rolled up at the head [of the bed] . All these beds are hung
about with like Mats, which serve for decency and protect from the
cold.
The dexterity and skill of these Indians is surpassing in the con-
struction of their Lrauncnes made of Pine planking [tatlazon] . They
are from eight to ten varas [22 to 27^ feet] in length, including their
rake, and of a vara and half [4 feet 1>^ inches] beam. Into their
fabric enters no iron whatever, of the use of which they know little.
But they fasten the boards with firmness, one to another, working
their drills just so far apart and at a distance of an inch from the
edge, the [holes] in the upper tx>anls corresponding with those in the
lower, and thro' these holes they pass strong lashings of Deer sinews.
They pitch and calk the seams, and paint the whole in sightly colors.
They handle the [boats] with equal cleverness, and three* or four
Men go out to the open sea to fish in them, as they have capacity to
carry eight or ten. They use long oars with two blades, and row
with unspeakable lightness and velocity. They know all the arts of
fishing, and Fish abound along their Coasts, as has been said of
San Diego. They have communication and Commerce with the Na-
tives of the Islands, whence they get the beads of coral which are
current in place of money thro' all these Lands ; altho' they hold in
more esteem the glass beads which the Spaniards gave them — and
offered in exchange for these whatever they had, like trays. Otter
Skins, baskets and wooden plates. More than anything they appre-
ciate whatsoever clasp-knife [navaid] or cutting instrument ; whose
advantages over the [implements] of flint, they admire ; it causing
them much satisfaction to see use made of the axes and machetes,
and the facility with which the soldiers, to make firewood, felled a
Tree with the said Instruments.
They are likewise great Hunters. To kill Deer and Antelopes, they
avail Uiemselves of an admirable ingenuity. They preserve the hide
of the head and part of the neck of some one of these Animals,
skinned with care and leaving the horns [llaves^ lit., keys] attached to
*This cnstom was in fact to "send on** the implements for the use of the deceased
in the next world.— Cd.
EARLY CALIFORNIA HISTORY.
41
the same hide, which they stuff with grass or straw to keep its shape.
They put this said shell [armazon] like a cap upon the head and
go forth to the Woods with this rare equipage. On sighting the Deer
or Antelope, they go dragging themselves along the Ground little by
little, with the left hand. In the right they carry the bow and four
arrows. They lower and raise the head, moving it to one side and
the other, and making other demonstrations so like these Animals
that they attract them without difficulty to the snare ; and having
them within a short distance, they discharge their arrows at them
with certainty of hitting.
Among them were seen some pieces of Broadsword, iron and frag-
ments of wrought silver ; which, being of small amount, seemed a
novelty to our Folk. And asking them by signs how they acquired
those things, they made signs [they got them] from the Interior to-
ward the Bast. And altho' New Mexico lies very distant in that
direction, it is possible [/acHdle] that [passing] from hand to hand
these said trinkets [alhajas, lit. jewels] may have come into their
possession in time.
Their Tongue is sonorous and of easy pronunciation. Some be-
lieve they &id in it a certain connection with the Mexican [i.e.,
A2tec], in that the L/ and T are frequently sounded as was observed
among these Natives. But those who know [poseen] the Mexican
can better infer as to this by the following words [vozes] :
Words of the said
Toniroe
Nucchd
Kejuh^
Huachaii
Chipucu
Tocholo
Tononomb
PistocU
Kippeju^
Acteme
Tomol
Apa
Temf
Amo
Pack
Exc6
Maseja
Scumu
Itipaca
Itixco
Itimasge
Malahua
Upax
Kerxco
From the Channel of Santa Barbara onward, the I^ands are not so
populous nor the Indians so industrious, but they are equally affable
and tractable. The Spaniards pursued their Voyage without opposi-
tion up to the Sierra of Santa Lucfa, which they contrived to cross
with much hardship. At the foot of said Sierra on the North side is
to be found the port of Monterrey, according to ancient reports, be-
tween the Point of Pines and that of Ano nuevo [New- Year]. The
Spaniards caught sight of said Points on the first of October of the
year '69 ; and believing they had arrived at the end of their Voyage,
the Commandant sent the Scouts forward to reconnoiter the [Point]
of Pines ; in whose near vicinity lies said Port, in 36 degrees, 40 min-
Their ^
ralne ia
(Spanish)
(EmriUh)
lya Cabeza
Head
El Pecho
Breast
Iva Mano
Hand
ElCodo
Elbow
El Sobaco
Armpit
El Muslo
Thigh
I^a RodUla
Knee
Ira Piema
I^g
. ElPi^
Foot
Irancha, 6 canoa
Canoe
Rancheria
Village
Capitan 6 Principal
Captain
No
No
trds of Number
Uno
One
Dos
Two
Tres
Three
Quatro
Four
Cinco
Five
Seis
Six
Siete
Seven
Ocho
Eight
Nueve
Nine
Diez
Ten
♦2 LAND OF SUNSHtNE.
utea. North lat. But the scant tokens, and equivocal ones, which are
g-iven of it by the Pilot Cabrera Bueno — ^the only clue [Norie] of this
Voyage — ^and the character of this Port, which rather merits the
name of Bay, being spacious (in a likeness to that of Cadiz), not cor-
responding with the ideas which it is natural to form in reading the
DerroUros [lK)g] of the aforementioned Catxrera Bueno, nor with the
latitude of 37 degrees in which he located it — the Scouts were per-
suaded that the Port must l)e farther to the North. And they re-
turned to the Camp which our [people] occupied with the report that
what they sought was not to be seen in those parts.
The Sick at that time counted seventeen Men crippled with Scurvy.
The season was advanced, the labors of guarding and night-herding
the Caballada, loading the Packtrain, Sentry duty in the Camp, and
above all the reconnoissances and explorations of the regions, de-
manded— since they were naturally heavy — a greater number of Folk
than there were in a state to perform these services. So that the
Commandant found himself doubtful as to the procedure it would be
most fit to adopt; whether to wait in the spot for some Bark to appear
or to pursue the march in quest of the Port of Monterrey. In this he
considered the difficulties which have been mentioned, and not daring
to make the resolve himself he called his Officers in Council. They
were unanimous with him in feeling that the march should be pur-
sued. For if they did not arrive at the Port and Halting-place of
the Barks, to receive the Victuals, utensils and necessary munitions
for the Establishment which was to be made in Monterrey, the succor
which they so much needed could not be promised, nor would it be
possible to form the Establishment which had been ordered. And,
last, that it was better to pass on in quest of the Port, which could
not be far, according to all the evidence, than to adopt at once a pro-
cedure which it would always be in time to choose in ease the Sick
should become worse or the number of them be augmented.
It was resolved, then, to prosecute the Voyage, on this occasion
turning their backs on the Port which was being searched for. The
Sick suffered much on this march. Some i^^ere seen to be in the last
extremity. This notably retarded the march, as it was necessary to
take a rest at each stage of the journey. At this time (at the end of
October), the Rains \Aguas\ began ; and with them entered an Epi-
demic of diarrhoea which spread to all without exception; and it
came to be feared that this Sickness, which prostrated their powers
and left the Persons spiritless, would finish with the Expedition al-
together. But it turned out quite to the contrary ; for as mamy as
were afflicted and suffering with the Scurvy, crippled, swollen in all
their members and loaded with pains, began from that time forth to
experience alleviation of their ills. Lrittle by little the swellings
went down, the pains ceased, they recovered the use of their mem-
bers, and at last their perfect health, without any medicament.
The last day of October the Expedition by Lrand came in sight of
the Punta de L/OS Reyes [Point Reyes] and the Farallones [islands]
of the Port of San Francisco, whose landmarks, compared with
those related by the Log of the Pilot Cabrera Bueno, were found
exact. Thereupon it became of evident knowledge that the Port of
Monterrey had been left behind ; there being few who stuck to the
contrary opinion. Nevertheless the Commandant resolved to send to
reconnoiter the I^and as far as Point de los Reyes. The Scouts who
were Commissioned for this purpose found themselves obstructed by
immense Estuaries which run extraordinarily far back into the Land,
and were obliged to make great detours to cut off their heads [des-
cabezar; i.e., get around the heads of the estuaries]. They em-
ployed three days in this reconnoissance, and returned saying that
according to the signs the Indians had given them they could not
EARLY CALIFORNIA HISTORY. 43
doabt that the Port [Monterey] must be very near, and that surely
some one of the Packets had arrived at its destination, and they be-
lieved it to be the *' San Joseph." L/ittle account was made of this
information acquired by the equivocal medium of signs with hands
and head, which in the like occasions usurp the office of the tongue.
Nevertheless, not to retire with this doubt, it was resolved to pass on
forward far enough to ascertain the fact. Having arrived at the end
[retnaie] of the first Estuary, and reconnoitered the I^and that would
have to be followed to arrive at the Point de los Reyes, interrupted
with new Bstuaries, scant of Pasturag-e and Firewood ; and havinf^
recognized, besides this, the uncertainty of the news and the mis-
apprehension the Scouts had labored under, the Commandant, with
the advice {parecer'\ of his Officers, resolved upon a retreat to the
Point of Pines, in hopes of finding the Port of Monterrey and en-
countering in it the Packet **San Joseph *' or the ** San Antonio,"
whose succor already was necessary ; since of the Provisions which
had been taken in San Diego no more remained than some few sacks
of Flour, of which a short ration was issued to each individual daily.
With the Powder and the I^ead the lack of the other things was some-
what supplied, for the chase was abundant — above all, that of Geese
and Ducks, which in Time of Winter abound extraordinarily in that
I^and.
On the eleventh day of November was put into execution the re-
treat in search of Monterrey. The Spaniards reached said Port and
[the] Point of Pines on the 28th of November. They maintained
themselves in this place until the tenth day of December, without
any vessel having appeared in this time. For which reason — and
noting also a lack of Victuals, and that the Sierra of Santa Luc£a
was covering^ itself with snow — the Commandant Don Gaspar de
Portold saw himself obliged to decide to continue the retreat unto
San Dieg^o ; leaving it until a better occasion to return to the Enter-
prise.
On this retreat the Spaniards experienced some hardships and
necessities, because they entirely lacked Provisions, and because the
long" marches — which necessity obliged them to make, to reach San
Diegfo — gave no time for seeking- sustenance by the chase, nor did
this [i. e., game] abound equally everywhere. At this juncture they
killed twelve Mules of the Packtrain, on whose meat the FoPjc nour-
ished themselves unto San Diego ; at which new Establishment they
arrived, all in health, on the 24th of January of 1770.
They found in good condition their humble Buildings, surrounded
with a palisade of trunks of Trees, capable of a good defense in case
of necessity. Many of the Soldiers and Mariners who stayed behind
Sick the preceding year were recovered from the fatal Epidemic of
Scurvy ; altho' the greater number of them (and these were they
who had first contracted the contagion on the Sea) had died irre-
mediably.
The Reverend Missionary Padres were convalescing from the com-
mon Sickness, as were also the Surgeon Don Pedro Prat, and Don
Vicente Vila ; for the contagion did not exempt [perdon6\ any person
of those who were comprised in this Expedition. \
There were in San Diego Provisions of Maize, Flour and Seeds
sufficient for the maintenance of those who composed the Garrison
for some months ; but with the coming of sixty Guests, it could not
be counted upon to last much time, and it was to be feared that if the
Barks should delay in bringing the Succor upon which they counted,
those Spaniards might see themselves obliged by hunger to abandon
entirely a Conquest which, altho' very fortunate, had cost so many
drudgeries [sudoreSy lit. ''sweats"] and so many lives. But not to
expose themselves to such discredit, the Commandant disposed that
44 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
the Captain of the Garrison of the Califomias, with 40 Men, should
prosecute a March unto that Peninsula, with the end to g'ather up in
its Missions the Victuals that he could, and to bring on foot the
Cattle which — as was said at the beginning* — ^had remained in Veli-
catd, and whose leanness had not permitted them to continue the
march. [This was a] shrewd provision, in that it looked to the actual
conservation of what had been acquired, diminishing the increased
number of consumers of the Victuals which were on hand, and to the
means of enabling them to subsist thereafter, even tho' there should
be failure of the Succor by Sea, so important to carry into due effect
the desired Enterprise of Monterrey.
This Detachment set forth, with the aforesaid object, on the 10th
of February of 1770. And by this means an account was newly
given, to the Most Excellent Senor Viceroy and the Most Illustrious
Senor Visitador General, of the state of affairs, of what had hap-
pened, been seen and discovered up to then by those Spaniards in
their long Voyage in Northern California. In which those who
remained awaiting the Orders of said Superiors were little delayed
in receiving the consolation which was demanded by the sad condi-
tion to which they saw themselves reduced.
On the 23rd day of March, the Packet of His Majesty, the " San
Antonio,'' under command of its Captain and Pilot Don Juan Peres,
arrived and cast anchor in the Port of San Diego. It had set Sail
from San Bias on the 20th of December of the preceding year of
1769. It experienced on its Voyage rude storms and contrary winds,
which drove it to 400 leagues from the Coast ; and having found
itself compelled to return in search of this [coast] to take on water,
it made Land at 35 degrees of [north] latitude. From there, turning
its Prow to the South and its left side to the Coast, in search of some
Anchorage, it arrived at the Point Concepcion, in 34 degrees and a
half of North Lratxtude. [This is] the most Westerly Land of the
Channel of Santa Barbara ; and in its shelter they managed to take
on water, close to a Settlement of Gentiles, who gave them indi-
vidual account [razon] of the Expedition by Land ; declaring by
signs [which were] nowise equivocal how the Strangers had passed
going toward the North, and had passed returning, short of food,
striking toward the South, mounted on their Horses. The which
they expressed by putting themselves in like posture upon the barrels
which the Mariners put ashore, and making other demonstrations
proper to a Man on Horseback. They mentioned, likewise, the
names of various Soldiers ; which, being recognized by some of the
Mariners, made it evident that these words were not sounded casually.
Perez, being convinced that the Expedition by Land had retreated
— in the which he admitted no doubt, because he was not ignorant
that the Victuals could not have lasted them until then — determined
to arrive at San Diego, to supply them with what they should need,
for the purpose of facilitating his Voyage returning to Monterrey,
his destination.
This was the measure which it was Appropriate to take, and in fact
the Commandant Don Gaspdr de Portold took it, notwithstanding he
found hii^self with few Troops to undertake a second time a march
so protracted. But the knowledge which he [now] had of the good
disposition of the Natives of those Lands, and the Hospitality which
so exactly and in all parts they had observed toward the Spaniards
on their first entry, quitted this time all suspicion and lack of confi-
dence. The march was resolved upon ; and, taking the necessary
Provisions, was put into effect on the l7th of April of the current
year, with only twenty Men, between Garrison Soldiers and Catalonia
Volunteers, with their Oflicer Don Pedro Fages.
The Engineer Don Miguel Costanso, conformably to the Orders
EARLY CALIFORNIA HISTORY. ^
with which he found himaelf, embarked in the Packet " San An-
tonio," on board of which also was transferred the Most Reverend
Padre President, Fray Junfpero Serra ; and this Vessel put to Sea on
the 16th of April of the same year.
All reached Monterrey; those by Lrand» on the 23rd of May ; and
on the 31st of the said [month] the *' San Antonio *' cast its anchor
in the same Port and anchorage in which, 168 years before, was
Anchored [5urtd\ the Squadron of the Greneral Vizcayno, sent by the
Count of Monterrey to the Discovery of these Coasts, by Order of
our Lord Don Felipe Third. This Port is found, as has been said, in
36 degrees and 40 minutes North latitude, at the declivity [caydd] of
the Sierra of Santa I^ucfa, on the North side of it. Its principal
shelter is the Point of Pines, which trends (not from Northeast to
Southwest, as the Pilot Cabrera Bueno locates it, but) from North-
west to Southeast ; and to the Northeast shore of it is found the
Anchorage, in which whatsoever Vessel can anchor in four, six [or]
eight fathoms, the bottom being of fine Sand and good holding, ac-
cording as it is more or less immediate to I^and.
The Point of Pines, which defends the Anchorage from the North-
west, is all girt with rocks and stone bluffs [canHles]^ but behind the
rocks enters a handsome Beach bordered with Sandbanks [Meganos,
misprint for M^danos\ on its E^asterly bend, turning soon to the
Northeast and North, up to a very great Estuary with different arms,
distant from the beginning of the said Beach more than three leagues.
Thence the Coast follows turning to the Northwest and West — of
£#arth rather thick \gruesa\ , clothed with Groves, stony in [some]
parts as far as Point Ano Nuevo [New Year] , which dies in the Sea
at 37 degrees and three minutes of [north] Latitude. So that the
Anchorage remains surrounded by Land on all sides except the
Northwest, where alone it lacks shelter.
The land which shuts in this immense Bay, seen from the Sea,
forms an agreeable perspective. For, looking to the South, can be
seen the Sierra of Santa Lucfa; which, throwing off from itself
sundry hills, lower [and lower] in proportion as they approach the
Beach, their summits crowned with Pines and covered with Pastur-
age, presenting a magnificent amphitheater, made more sightly
by the different CaiLadas which interrupt the land and cause admira-
ble variety and harmony to the eyes. This Port has not running
water; but sufficient [water] is found in a ravine or low place to the
southeast of the Landing, which is where the Beach begins. In this
place one passes dryshod an Bstuary, which fills only at spring tides,
and runs inland a considerable distance toward the East. This low
place is very humid, and for this reason much grass grows in it, and
it always keeps green. So that, digging in whatsoever part, and
opening wells, one will find fresh water \agua dulce, lit. sweet water]
and good, almost at the very surface [peto, lit. '' skin*'] of the Earth.
And [the water] would be better if one cared to practice the same
diligence a little further inland, in some little Canada of the many
which come to disembogue there. For in them have been found va-
rious springs of excellent water tho' scanty.
On the Northeast and East shore, the country stretches in hand-
some plains which terminate at the Sierra. [These have] various
small Lagoons, though most of them are of brackish water. In some
of them much salt crystallizes [se quaja, lit. '' curdles"]. The land
in general is sandy, but there are many low places of excellent
crumbly soil. And to the South of the Port, at a distance of two short
leagues, is a spacious Ca&ada, thro' which comes down the River
called Carmelo, where are some places of Grass or coarse straw
[sacaiaUs 6 pajonales] which entirely hide a Man on Horseback —
proof of the feracity of the land. Its products are worthy of
46 . LAND OF SUNSHINE.
esteem ; for there are Walnuts, Hazelnuts, and Cherries, as in
Burope ; Blackberries, Roses, good Grass on every side.
In the Sierra are most corpulent [corpulentisimos] Oaks and Irive-
oaks, which produce good Acorns, Pines which bear Cones, and
Pinones in abundance; Forests of Junipers, of Cypresses and other
various Trees \Palos\,
The Natives of Monterrey live in the Sierra. Those nearest the
Beach are distant from it about a league and a half. They come
down at times and go forth to fish on little Rafts of cat-tail rushes
[Balzitas de Ened]. But the fisheries cannot be their principal main-
tenance, and they recur to it only when the chase profits them little.
For [game] abounds much in the interior of the Sierra. Above all,
such as the Antelope and Deer. These Serranos [mountaineer In-
dians] are docile and tractable in the extreme. They never used to
come to visit the Spaniards without bringing them a good treat of
game, which w2ls generally composed of two or three Deer or Ante-
lope, which they offered without exacting nor even asking anything
[in return]. Their good disposition has given to the Reverend Mis-
sionary Padres well founded hopes to make Conquest of them,
briefly, for the Faith of Christ.
On these Coasts, Fish abounds no less than in the Santa Barbara
Channel and Port of San Diego. The Cub-Whales and Sea-Lrions
[Lodos Marinas] are beyond number ; and with time the fishery for
the former might perhaps be facilitated in that same Bay.
In that Lrand was erected, conformably to the mandate, a Presidio
and Mission under the Advocacy of San Carlos ; all cooperating with
equal attention and solicitude — Troops, Mariners, and their respect-
ive Officers — toward the humble beginnings of so important an
fystablishment. Having concluded the Provisional work on it, which
was put in the order most necessary for the Reverend Missionary
Fathers and the Troops of the Presidio ; and having projected the
remaining [work] which ought to be done afterwanl, the cargo of
the Packet was warehoused. The resolution was taken by the Com-
mandant Don Gaspdr de Portold to embark on it [the packet] , with
the Engineer Don Miguel Costanso, leaving the command to the
Ifieutenant of Infantry, Don Pedro Fages, as he was advised in his
Instructions. And to aid the Troops in their labors, nine Mariners
remained in Monterrey as a reinforcement.
The " San Antonio" put forth from that Port the ninth of July of
this year, and arrived happily at the [Port] of San Bias the first of
August. And when there arrived afterward at the same [port] the
other Packet the " San Carlos" — which returned from San Diego—
both were made ready to undertake a new Vo3rage in the coming
month of November to convey separately, by the interior Gulf of
California, and by the Sea of the South, thirty Apostolic Mission-
aries with abundant stores of provisions, clothing, utensils and
[sacred] Vestments, for the purpose of sustaining the new Presidios
of San Diego and Monterrey, with their respective Missions, and to
erect others in the fertile Countries which the S^xpedition by Land
traversed from Velicata as far as the Port of San Francisco, situate
in 37 degrees, 45 minutes, of [north] lyatitude.
Thus the desired £^tablishments of San Diego and Monterrey have
had their felicitous beginnings. And so [felicitously], we ought to
promise ourselves, shall come true of the new Missions which are
going to be foundeid and to grow under the protection and auspices of
the Most Excellent Sr. Marquis de Croix, Viceroy, Governor and
Captain-General of this far-reaching Empire, whose mild [suav^]
Rule his Subjects applaud and the Peoples live in gratitude for. But
this Enterprise, desired for so many years, and promoted many times
with grand preparations and costs, will without doubt be very grate-
EARLY CALIFORNIA HISTORY. '♦^
fal to the August Monarch who wears the Crown of Spain ; whose
magnanimous Heart and religious Piety Heaven rewards with raising
up in his glorious Reign Men Illustrious and Great in all estates,
iScclesiastical, Military and Political, to vie equally in fulfilling the
high charges which he entrusts to their eminent capacity and talents
— ^never better employed than in procuring the Propagation of the
Gospel and the public welfare of his LfOyal and I^oving Vassals.
Mexico, and October 24, of 1770.
Don Migubi, Costanso.
ABSTRACT OF REPORTS
concerntng the Port of Monterrey, the Mission and Presidio *kfhkh ha<ve been
established at it, <o)ith the denomination of San Carlos, and the oatcome of
the t*wo Expeditions by Sea and Land, <which for this end 'were dispatched
in the year last past, of 1769*
AFTER THE REPEATED and costly Expeditions which were
made by the Crown of Spain, in the two centuries preceding, for the
reconnoissance of the Occidental Coast of Califomias by the sea of
the South, and for the occupation of the important Port of Mon-
terrey, this enterprise has now been successfully carried out with the
two expeditions, by sea and land, which, in consequence of the Royal
Order and by the arrangements of this Superior Government [i. e.,
the viceroy], were dispatched from Cape San L^ucas and the Presidio
of Ivoreto in the months of Jan., Feb. and March of the year last
past.
In June thereof, both Expeditions united in the Port of San
Diego, situate in 32 degrees and a half of [north] latitude. And the
resolution havimg been taken that the Packet *' San Antonio" should
return to the Port of San Bias to reinforce its crew and bring new
provisions, the Flag Packet, named the ''San Carlos,'' remained
anchored in that same Port of San Diego, for want of Mariners, who
had died of scurvy. Ajid having established there the Mission and
an Escort, the expedition by land pursued its voyage to the interior
of the country as far as 37 degrees and 45 minutes [north] latitude,
in search of Monterrey. But not having found it by the tokens of
the ancient voyages and logs, and fearing scarcity of Victuals, it re-
turned to San Diego ; where, with the fortunate arrival of the Packet
'* San Antonio " in March of this year, the Commandants by land
and sea took the opportune resolution to return to the enterprise, con-
formably with the instructions which they carried to accomplish it.
In fact both Expeditions set forth from San Diego on the 16th and
17th days of April of the present [year] ; and in this second voyage,
the [expedition] by land had the felicity to find the Port of Monter-
rey, and to arrive at it the 16th of May ; and that by sea likewise ar-
rived at the same place, without accident nor more loss than that of
a sick Calker, the 3l8t of the same month.
That Port having been thus occupied by sea and land, with the
particular complacency of the innumerable Gentile Indians who
people all the Country explored and reconnoitered in the two voyages.
Possession was solemnized the third day of June, with an authentic
Instrument which the Commandant in Chief, Don Gaspdr de Portoli,
committed to writing and the remaining Officers of both Expeditions
certified ; all giving their assurance that that was the very Port of
Monterrey, with the identical landmarks [seHales] which were de-
scribed in the ancient Narrative [Relaciones] of General Don Sebas-
tian Viscayno, and in the log of Don Joseph Cabrera Bueno, first
Pilot of the Ships of the Philippines.
On the 14th day of the above mentioned month of June last, the
said Commandant Don Gaspir de Portold dispatched a Mail by land
48 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
to the Preaidio of Lforeto, with the praiseworthy news of the occupa-
tion of Monterrey, and of the having- established in it the Mission
and Presidio of San Carlos. But on account of the great distance,
this Superior Gov't has not jet received those L<etters ; and on the
10th of the present month there arrived at this Capital the [letters]
which were directed by the same Portold, the Engineer Don Miguel
Costans6, and the Captain Don Juan Perez, Commandant of the
aforesaid Packet " San Antonio," alias " Principe,*' which put forth
the 9th of July from Monterrey. And notwithstanding eight days
of calms, it made its long voyage with such felicitous celerity that
on the first of this month it cast anchor in San Bias.
There were left abundant utensils and provisions in the new Pre-
sidio and Mission of San Carlos of Monterrey, and stores for one
year, for the purpose of establishing another Doctrina at a propor-
tionate distance, with the advocacy of San Buenaventura. .Ajid the
Ivieutenant of Catalonian Volunteers, Don Pedro Fages, having also
remained there as Military Commandant, with more than thirty men,
it is to be judged that by this date there will already have united
with him the Captain of the Presidio of I/oreto, Don Fernando
de Rivera, with other nineteen Soldiers and the Vaqueros and
Muleteers who were conducting 200 homed cattle [lueses Bacunas]^
and a portion of Victuals from the new Mission of San Fernando de
Villacati, situate beyond the Frontier of the California anciently re-
claimed; since he set forth from that place the 14th of April last,
with destination to the aforesaid Ports of San Diego and Monterrey.
Notwithstanding that at the latter [port] the Warehouses already
constructed at the new Presidio and Mission were left provided with
abundance, at the departure of the Packet ** San Antonio;" and that
in that [port] of San Diego lie anchored the two other Packets of
His Majesty, the '' San Carlos" and the '* San Joseph," this Superior
Gov't disposes that in the latter part of October next the " San An-
tonio" return to undertake a third voyage from the Port of San
Bias, and that it conduct new provisions and thirty Religious of St.
Ferdinand [Femandinos] of the last Mission which came from
Spain; in order that in that extensive and fertile Country reconnoitered
by the Expedition by land, from the ancient Frontier of California
as far as the Port of San Francisco (little distant, and more to the
North from that of Monterrey), new Missions be erected, and that
happy opportunity be taken advantage of which is offered by the
gentleness and good disposition of the innumerable Gentile Indians
who inhabit the Northern California.
In proof of this fortunate disposition in which are found those
numerous and most docile Gentiles, the Commandant Don Gaspdr
de Portold declares — and the rest of the Officers and the Missionary
Fathers agree to the same thing — that our Spaniards remain in Mon-
terrey as safe as if they were in the midst of this Capital ; altho' the
new Presidio has been left sufficiently fitted out with Artillery,
Troops and abundant munitions of war. And the Reverend Father
President of the Missions [Serra], destined for that [Mission] of
Monterrey, relates very minutely and with especial joy, the affability
of the Indians, and the promise which they had already made him to
deliver their children to be instructed in the Mysteries of our Holy
and Catholic Religion. That exemplary and zealous Minister of it
adds the circumstantial report of the Solemn Masses which had been
celebrated, from the [time of the] arrival of both Expeditions until
the departure of the Packet ** San Antonio ;" and of the Solemn
Procession of the Most Holy Sacrament which was made on the day
of Corpus [Christi], the 14th of June; with other particularities
which accredit the especial providence with which God hath deigned
to favor the successful issue of these Expeditions — ^in reward, with-
ACCURATE CALIFORNIA STATISTICS. *9
oatdonbt, of the ardent Zeal of Our Ang^st Soverei{ina> whose incom-
parable piet7 recog'nUea as the first obligation of his Royal Crown
m these vast Dominions the extension of the Faitfa of Jeaus Christ,
and the wellfare of the wretched Gentiles who groan without knowl-
edge of it and in the trrannons bondage of the common enemy.
In order not to hold back this most important report, the present
Narrative of it has been formed in brief compend, without awaiting
the first letters despatched by land from Monterrey. In the mean-
time, with them, the diaries of the voyages by sea and land, and the
rest of the Documents, in due time can be given a complete work
concerning the both expeditions.
Uexico, 16th of August, of 1770.
With pbrmissiqh and by ordbb of the Most Excbllent SeRok
ViCKHOY.
At the Imprint of the Superior Government.
Accurate California Statistics,
AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS, lOOO.
AC..AO..
smrxBHTl.
cail'db
FDUND
.BDS., BTC
V&LDB.
Oiuagt* and Lemoaa
DscldnoDs Frnlt, fnsb
£5,540
not Biveo
1S,«00
'SS8
■m
Lbs..
Lb*.
ii.ibolooa ;
118.000,000
9.HS,0M
Alnoni' -
3,sn
•'iS.-.r — :
tsr. I
Lbs.. 1 1
iSt:t 1
Lbs.. 1
bd^: I
Bub., I
Tons, 1
Lbs.. li.e60,T3S
Lbs.. S,W,9X
DotriTcd
S,T11
wxw
■■■■iM-
7,000
not Biren
not Biveu
i,Si,a5
i076
1393,185
1.000,000
115,000
W,000
Dairies :
"-M
v^'a^^'Z^tVt^
Lb..,
IMM
* VLdtsffe; shlpmeats m
pricolB, apples, fl^s, p<
ToTAI., tl38,301,U
B, plnms, nectaiinos, crapes.
1, wtalcb exceed tbe oil In outtiat.
souBTHiMG Something must be done — and something is i:oing
DOHB. *o be done — for the Mission Indians of Southern
California. A little meeting of ponderable people
in June decided to fonn an organization which will have a
strength and " pull " that even the politicians will have to
respect. Unfortunately, most of the active workers are to
be away from home during the summer months ; but in
the early fall a permanent association will be formed to do
organized and unremitting work for the infamously abused
natives. And God pity the vulgar oppressor then ! For
his name shall be made a stench in the nostrils of the de-
cent. He shall be known as he is — one who cared more to
add a few acres to his lands than for the death by starva-
tion of hundreds of men, women and children.
The whole treatment of the Mission Indians has been a
disgrace to us — as has been said before in these pages, and
before that by better people. Perhaps the crowning shame
— certainly that which now most undeniably enlists all
Americans who still have manhood — is the imminent evic-
tion of the Indians of Warner's Ranch, in San Diego
county. Since before the discovery of America, these
harmless people have dwelt on those lands — a little oasis
on the verge of the hopeless desert But now they
must go. Where ? To the desert. There is no room for
them. They owned California once. Over them then
came the Franciscan Missions, to their betterment.
Wicked Spain protected them in their rights. Then came
the secularization of the Missions, 70 years ago — a high-
way robbery by Mexico, as every student knows, and the
eminent lawyer, John T. Doyle, proved in our own courts
by recovering from our government nearly a million dollars
involved in the same confiscation. Corrupt satraps par-
IN THE UON*S DEN. 51
celed out these stolen lands in grants ; and the Supreme
Court of the United States has recently confirmed one of
those grrants to a rich man who does not need it, thereby
leaving 300 Indians to starve. Which shows not so much
the difference between law and justice, as it does the igno-
rance of our great tribunal.
The one present hope for the lives of these 300 First
Americans is in the manhood of the successful litigant.
The Lion has known J. Downey Harvey for some sixteen
years, and believes him manly. He is *' business," but he
has never yet, to the Lion's knowledg^e, acted the brute ;
and it is a comfort that he, rather than another, is the
winner in this suit. He may be relied upon, the Lion be-
lieves, to act mercifully ; to wait and give a chance for
poor men to contribute to buy land with water and give it
to the Indians who were living at ** Warner's Ranch" be-
fore the first traceable ancestor of the grantee was born.
At any rate, there is a concrete movement now to try to
care for and help these bedevilled people, whose only crime
is that they were here first and that they have lands that
stronger people hanker for. And it is a movement that
means business. In social, political and literary circles it
is strong enough to count. Meantime the first concrete aid
comes from Mr. J. E. Lowrey, of Sopris, Colorado, who
sends the Lion $5 to be applied for the benefit of the Mis-
sion Indians. All such contributions will be gratefully re-
ceived, accounted for and applied net to helping the Indians.
An Eastern Summer! What a reminiscence for the »ack m
Californian — and we nearly all have had it to re-
member— what an experience to renew for them
that have graduated from the Foolish Land where's it's as
much as one's life is worth to meet one's own weather on
the street. It is nearly 18 years since the Lion has par-
ticipated in this Gehenna on the Installment Plan — ^but he
had not forgotten a jot of it. He has lived in the tropics
and in the intermediate 'deserts, and they have been warm
enough for him ; but he has never found anything so bad
as summer in the land which is sardined with the vast
majority of the people who confess that they are the smart-
est in the world. The morasses of Ecuador or the Mexican
OF IT.
52 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Tierra Caliente, the gfhastly sands of our Mojave or the
Peruvian Atacama — ^he would pick any one of these as
summer resorts sooner than any city of Indiana, Ohio,
New York. And in all these places, where he worked hard,
tramping day long with a heavy camera, mining for antiq-
uities and so on, he was cooled and refreshed by remem-
bering that after all this wasn't a New York or Washing-
ton summer.
And now, popped back into the old inferno, he finds that
the possible mirages of 18 years — every year of them
thankful — have not magnified the fact. If anything, it is
a little worse than he remembered. It is a remarkable
transition, for anyone capable of observation and thought,
to make the transcontinental trip at almost any season ; to
the average Easterner — who knows California only as a
flowery winter refuge from his snows — perhaps the trans-
formation is most astonishing in summer. Leaving Los
Angeles — where he never has slept a summer night under
less than two blankets nor ever a winter night without
wide-open windows ; where his children run bare-headed
all the year and he works in the sun the hottest days — the
Lion came over the Mojave in 112^, and overran the shade-
less mesas of Southern New Mexico afoot every daylight
hour for days, when the coolest shade back in the village
registered 117^. It violates no confidence to say that it
was warmish work ; but it was not dangerous nor debilita-
ing. In the Arid Lands — particularly at high altitudes —
such heat is not bad, and sunstrokes are unknown. And
his little girl legged it at his side, and danced in the blaz-
ing plaza of her birthplace in the ceremonial dance of her
old Indian neighbors — and felt the fiery glow no more than
a salamander may.
Then up the piny acclivities of the Glorieta and the
Raton, the coccyx of the Backbone of the Continent, where
the air is always tonic ; and on down the long slope to
the Stoke-pit Country.
It is only in the Humid Lands — what washing the Al-
mighty never cared enough for to wring out or hang nearer
heaven — that heat is murderous. In that wonderfully
beautiful valley of the Kaw it began to be like Old Times.
The shadiest place in town marked 101)^° when we
lunched at Topeka, and the sticky air would have mended
crockery with very little condensation. Kansas City was
IN THE LION'S DEN. S3
worse ; and variable Chicagro, sittingf by ber vast polluted
lake, was a mere musb. Tbe news &om tbe front, as tbe
train-boy came on witb fresb papers, was cheering. It was
like war days — old war days ; for in our three years' Span-
isb-Filipino war there has not been a battle in which so
many people were killed and wounded as the heat put out
in our civilized East in that one day in early July — 57
deaths from heat and 141 prostrations in New York yester-
day ; 206 deaths from heat in New York today. Chicago
claimed only five deaths from heat, with a mild list of
prostrated and ''insane from heat;" but recorded eleven
people killed dead by one clap of lightning in the city. And
all this before the Glorious Fourth, and before the Fiend
has fairly warmed up to his work. Chicago is probably
the coolest great city in the East ; but on the Fourth the
Lion sat still in his skin at the table in a three-side-open
room, in an unelbowed house within rifle-carry of the lake,
and gasped and ran rivers all day ; and at 6 p.m. enjoyed a
violent gale and thunderstorm ; and at 4 A.M., still leaking
at every pore, lay down stark to heavy sleep. And on the
10th of July, when these words are written, in the coolest
and prettiest spot to which Chicago millionaires retreat, it
was 99 >^ in the shade — and in Chicago 102° in the sky and
106° on the street. Only a dry wind from the Colorado
plains saved the city from the mortality of a goodly battle.
And nearly two million Americans, who think no small
of their wits, persist in that Tophet — to say nothing of the
more millions who endure worse. Move ? How can they
move ? Aren't they coral " insects," by now, unable to
build except upon one another's backs ? The rich who are
not too busy do escape their torments by fleeing to the
woods and waters in summer, by living hermetically sealed
in their palatial cans of poisoned air in winter ; but the
vast majority are helpless under the claws of the urban
monster as a mouse playing with a cat. She may let them
frisk a step or two — and then out comes the velvet paw.
And they stay where men drop dead on the streets with
sunstroke, and horses wear straw hats to save their lives,
and the very heavens reek with the stench of lathered man
and beast. And they stay on when the contemptuous skies
jail them in their taxable prisons, and shake pneumonia in
their faces if they dare emerge from a second-hand stew or
furnace-heated, humanized air. They stay because they
have lost what our first mother learned at the Tree — the
knowledge of good and evil. They are not even ashamed
of their nakedness. They are smitten with the locomotor
ataxia of cities. One in ten thousand of them is still ver-
tebrate,- and can walk — and 7£/i7/walk, "just as soon as he
54 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
can arrang^e his business," unless he happens to die of his
weather first. But the vast majority will never stir till
they go feet first to a better climate — whichever their lives
may have earned.
To one born and bred where people know no better, but
who timely escaped, all this seems curious. The Lion
won't be sunstruck in the Bast. He can stand more weather
than most people. But as a standing rule of life he doesn't
have to, and doesn't mean to. It is good enough for him
where no one is ever sunstruck or frozen to death, slain with
lightning or cyclones, or mad dogs or poisonous air. And
even as he yearns to see the relatively few people who are
worthy to enjoy God's country, and wish to, get started
thither, he is thankful that California will never get
jammed with the sort of people who are contented with
the Kast.
HASSAYAMPERS The Immedicable Tenderfoot is not the only fly in
^'"^ OTHERS *^^ Western ointment. His most gibbering ab-
surdities, his fondest credulities, are run neck-and-
neck — and often headed — by the Autochthonous Provincial
who guesses at everything and always guesses big enough.
Heaven has made a sort for the express purpose, appar-
ently, of knowing less about a country the longer they live
in it ; and some of these folk seem to have lived in the
West long enough to know nothing whatever. There are
even Western newspapers, whose fund of progressive ig-
norance would furnish forth a dozen Raymond excursions.
An Arizona paper, for instance, gravely announces that
Tucson is the oldest city in the United States, having been
'' founded in 1555, some half a century earlier than Santa
Fe or St. Augustine " It bases this joyous bit of curb-
stone history on jolly George Hilzinger's absurd Treasure
Land and its alleged :
''Authentic documents discovered among the records of the old
mission of San Xavier, dated 1552» when the settlement was ordered
to be established ; and attached to which is an account of the found-
ing^ of Tucson, written in the fair round hand of Marcos of Niza."
Western Brethern, is it not about time to leave these
Hassayampings and fakes to the Vacant Tourist ? It is
very nice sometimes to make a fool of him, but to make
fools of ourselves is not compulsory. There are Tender-
feet who are not fools — ^and they laugh at you.
Tucson is the "oldest city" in — Tucson. Be content
with that. St. Augustine, Pla., was founded in 1565;
Chamita, New Mexico (San Gabriel de los Espanoles), in
1598 ; Santa Fe in 1605 ; Tucson in 1776. There are scores
of settlements in the Southwest that are older than Tuc-
tN THE LION'S DEN. 55
son. There are several even in tardy California. Tucson
had not even the disunity of an Indian rancheria when
Santa Fe was a gfoodly Spanish town a century old. No
order to found it in 1552 was ever given by anyone — nor in
1652 nor in 1752. It is first heard of as a little rancheria
of a few Indians in 1763, visited by a priest from Bac.
Fray Marcos of Niza never wrote an account of the found-
ing of Tucson, in a ** fair round hand " or any other, for
the excellent reason that he had been dead more than two
centuries when Tucson was founded. The date of his de-
mise was March 25, 1558 He never so much as saw the
site upon which Tucson — and so many silly lies — were
sometime to be built. Bvery student knows this. It has
been proved by history. Even Bancroft "had fun " with
these Hassayamper myths {New Mexico and Arizona^ f.
304) ; and Coues's Garces (p. 79) reviews the case. But
all this howling bosh is not only printed in an Arizona
paper and widely copied — it is said now to have gone into
the official archives of the Sons of the American Revolu-
tion I
And a New Mexico paper — whose fingers were badly
enough burned at the time by its advocacy of the disen-
chanted Prof. Libbey — again soberly attacks the En-
chanted Mesa, and says that a renegade Indian says that
his people have no legends. The Enchanted Mesa is set-
tled in science. The legend stood, the greenhorn who at-
tacked it was exploded — and of the fragments that were
left of his reputation as a scientist several baskets full were
gathered up in nearly every important publication in
America and a great many abroad. Every scholar knows
the facts, now; the intelligent ** old-timers" of New
Mexico know them ; and so far as is in evidence the only
dingers to the wreck are this one ignorant paper and the
ex-Rev. G. Wharton James.
The superb John Carter Brown Library of Ameri- <>ooi> i>a.ys
cana, of which George Parker Winship of this staflf ^^^studbnts
is librarian, has been presented by its trustees to
Brown University, Providence, R. I., with an endowment
of $650,000. This matchless collection of books printed in
or concerning North or South America before 1801, is not
only a tremendous accession to Brown University ; the
transfer will result in making it more accessible to stu-
dents, as it will now be housed in an adequate library
building, instead of a private residence. It is a pity more
rich men had not taken thought to gather important books.
Many give money en bloc to buy books^ but that is a very
different story from the intelligent and loving care of col-
lecting them on a great scale and a definite plan. In no
56 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
other line has there been so much need as in Americana —
and certainly none more interesting to Americans. The
exact first-hand study of the early history of this New
World has been almost closed to the average student by the
enormous rarity and cost of many of the more important
sources. We should fare hardly were it not for the brains
and generosity of two admirable American types — the late
John Carter Brown (son of the Nicholas Brown for whom
the University was named) and Edward E. Ayer, of
Chicago, whose magnificent private library of ^ Americana,
probably matchless in the world as to American Indians
and everything relating to them, is accessible through the
Newberry Library, and who is still expending a fortune
every year in scouring the earth for further treasures.
Such citizens deserve well of their country. In a day when
we are swamped and foundered with the flood of books that
are good for nothing, they have saved for us from the wreck
of neglect, and made accessible to us, the priceless volumes
upon which all scientific history of this our country must
be builded.
80MB One of the pathologic symptoms of hysteria is a
'^^"sraS^Ms *^*^^ ^^^® ^^ *^^ sense of proportion. Ladies in
this guise are not expected to remember history or
balance or self-control. Neither are nations. It is only
when they recover from their tantrums that they can per-
ceive that Waterloo was as important as the rattling of a
window that set them oflf . Certainly if there be any medical
term which can define the frequent ** spells" of two great
nations now in war, it is hysteria. When England cele-
brates with wild street orgies the escape of her 250,000
soldiers from a tenth of their number of farmers, that is
hysterical. When the United States does a war-dance over
naval engagements in which not a man is lost by the
victors — that rather resembles the same disease. There
are no adjectives, or emotions, left for Wellingtons, Napo-
leons, Nelsons, Washingtons, Lees, Farraguts, Perrys or
Grants — they have all been shrieked out for the corporals.
For instance, for capturing Aguinaldo by forged letters,
Funston is made a Brigadier-Greneral. Meade was made a
Brigadier-General for winning the battle of Gettysburg,
one of the world's great battles, a field on which more men
died than have died on both sides in our three years' war
with Spain and the Philippines, with its hundreds of
"battles." Funston is a dashing figure; but to reward a
brave, smart scout with precisely the same guerdon as
crowns the victor of a decisive battle in the nation's and
the world's destiny, is so disproportionate as to discredit
IN THE LfON'S DEN. 57
our dignity, to say nothing of subverting all the sane
standards, without which no military service can be kept
effective.
Just what the Cubans — and we — may expect, is rbi3asing
PBIJNB.
frankly and confidently set forth by an authorita- '^^^
tive administration organ, the Chicago Record"
Herald:
** The one guarantee that the Cabana have is in their own submis-
sion to whatever is demanded of them. 80 long as annexation is de-
ferred they may play at independence, but they should understand
that they are industrially as well as politically at this country's mercy,
and that in any event the intention is to keep their industries taxed.
Whether they are permitted to masquerade outside, or are taken in
after the qualified fashion of the hour, our sugar and tob€uuu> inter-
ests will be protected against them and will run thetn,**
The beauty of it is that this is all about so. This is, and
from the first has been, the intention of the moving spirits
in the little game of Cuba Libre which was so successfully
worked on a confiding and generous public, three years ago.
And our solemn pledge to give Cuba freedom and take no
advantage to ourselves ? Oh, the American people would
not have gone into war for a professed steal ; but when the
war is over they are too good-natured and too ''patriotic"
to object when the politicians break the nation's vow and
traffic in our shame.
How completely the bulk of the so-called "relig-ious press*' GOD
AND
has ceased to be religious and has left its conscience in the mammon
" business office," is shown by the ghastly fact that a ma-
jority of these sheets are now lining up to swallow the perjury of
breaking our faith with Cuba and the civilized world. The old and
strong- Independent is an honorable exception. 80 is the Chicago
Advance^ I believe. Yet one should insert a qualifying phrase,
though by '* religious press" we generally mean the Protestant
weeklies. For it is a sarcastic commentary on our intolerance, that
the Catholic papers seem to be without exception against the pro-
posed iniquity.
Mark Twain has '' met the enemy and they are his'n." There has
been a great deal of virtuous but stupid rage against him by the sort
of people who think with their religious emotions; but Mark has
flayed them with their own sword — since he understands ethics
better than his adversaries do. £^ven the Christian Register says of
Ament's defense : "It recalls the Scotch verdict — ' not guilty, but
don't do it ag-ain.' "
aod shot as true in hia latest, The Octopus. If he can canr
the two remainms members of bis projected Trilogy of Wheat on as
high a plane, it will be an astonishing performance. If too visibly
determined by Zola, and often too diligently brutal in style, it has
rather tremendous strength and scope, and its local coloration of the
"Octopus" is almost historical. This tragic picture, which to the
stranger will seem a travesty, is really a fine handling of the abomin-
able conditions which made Califomiana hate not railroads, but the
kind of railroad they knew— here thinly masked as the " Pacific and
Sonthweatem." The historic Mussel Slough slaughter, the '* all-
tbe-traffic-will-bear " policy, the corruption of legislatures, the shame-
less confiscation and robbery of individuals — all these are painted to
the life. The character-drawing la less inevitable than the descrip-
tion, perhaps. " Magnus Derrick," the wheat king, " S. Behrman,"
the characteristic railroad tool, and " Vanamee," the recluse, are the
most striking figures. "Annexter " seems a willful exaggeration at
first, though his transformation by love for"HiIma" is more con-
vincing. The diaphanous device of " Presley " as a Markham and
Uan-with-the-Hoe seems hardly good workmanship. And It must be
confessed that Mr. Norris is not yet so sure-handed with women and
love-stories aa with rough-hewn men. -" HUma " is the marble for
a big statue ; but her Pygmalion lacked the glow which should have
informed the work of the chisel. But all in all the book is a most un-
common one in grasp and force and depth of current ; such an energy,
in fact, aa very few American authors can either summon or harness.
Donbleday, Page & Co., New Yoric. C. C. Parker, Los Angeles,
S1.50.
wmsTOK Prom the man who wrote Richard Carvel we have naturally
CHr^CfTTTJ.'S handsome expectations ; nor does he disappoint us in his new
" CRISIS." novel. The Crisis, which is one of the marked books of the
year. Like his former novel, this strikes me as above all a fine, clean
and winning love-story, with the historical stage-setting effectively
handled and reasonably accurate ; with some very excellent character-
drawing, and a heroine who compels us. Such characters as fine old
"Col. Carvel," the Uriah Heep of an " Eliphalet Hopper," the hero,
Stephen Brice" and his mother, and old "Judge Whipple," would land
favor to almost any story; and "Jinny" is an even more irresistible
heroine than her own forebear "Dorothy" in the author's earlier
success. She is a delightful little rebel. The historical personages
in the book do not act so thoroughly at home as Mr. Churchill's owti
creations. Grant and Sherman carry it off fairly ; but hia Lincoln
seems to me a sad travesty — and perhaps it is not quite judicious or
modest to lay the hands of fiction quite yet upon that mighty figure.
Nor ia the role of Fremont altogether well cast. The life and atmos-
phere of St, Louis — then a hot-bed of aecesaion — just before and dur-
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 59
ing: the civil war, make an efFective setting' for a storj whose human
interest promptly seizes upon the reader. The Macmillan Co., 66
Fifth Ayenue, New York. $1.50.
Arthur Colton evidently maps from love and memory of his thbir
own ^e blue distances of The Delectable Mountains ; and for azurb
this reason particularly he interests us in his unidentified hub*
geography. The book is a sequence of naive and sympathetic stories
of boyhood and beyond. From their very boy-like camp and sanctu-
ary in '* the Place of the Abandoned Gkxls," and on through later
fortunes and dreamings, these unspoiled young* people win us and
warm us. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 153 Fifth Avenue, New York.
$1.50.
Among the many "nature books" — of which many are not in Thb
nature but artifice — ^there is welcome for so sincere a volume i«OVB OP
as Wm. H. Boardman's The Lovers of the Woods, It has na.turb.
charming outdoor color and feeling, a mellow humor, and no mean
touch of woodcraft. The author has a g'ood eye and a rather deft
hand ; and even the hardened woodman will find pleasure between
these covers. McClure, Phillips & Co., New York. $1.25.
The Inlander^ by Harrison Robertson , author oi I/I Were a A QUiBT
Man^ is the sweet and simple love-story of a fine unso- ix>VB
phisticated Tennessean, who spills his heart over the wrong stort*
girl in most chivalrous fashion, goes bitter, and finally finds and
marries the right one, has his folly of jealousy, and finally comes
upon the traditional "ever after." Chas. Scribner's Sons, 153 Fifth
Avenue, New York. $1.50.
Mary Catherine Judd's Wigwam Stories is a child's read- Indian
ing-book far and away above its class. It gives fair i^bgbnds
sketches, in simple terms, of a g^reat many of the legends WBi«i« SKBTCHBD.
of the North American Indians, and really with such effect that older
people will be interested and touched by them. It has also much
reasonable information about Indian character and customs. Natur-
ally in such a book there are errors ; but in this case they are fewer
than in many far more pretentious volumes. The picture on p. 118 is
not a Navajo but a Moqui weaver ; that on p. 249 is not of Pueblo
women but of Mexican women grinding com. The Moqui mesa is
not 800 feet high, nor half that. The Moqui! maidens are not "the
only Indian maidens who do not leave their hair hanging down their
backs" — not by a long way. But these and like errors may be par-
doned in the general sanity and attractiveness of the book. A special
interest is added by several illustrations and decorations by that
brave and promising young Indian artist. Miss Angel de Cora. Ginn
A Co., 13 Tremont Place, Boston.
A decidedly unexpected book from a Northerner — or per- south
haps from any source — is Henry Bourland^ the Passing of and
the Cavalier, Perhaps a Southerner could not have written north.
so fairly of that Reconstruction period which is so particularly dirty
a page in our annals ; and Albert Elmer Hancock's novel is to be
praised particularly for giving the truthful if gloomy picture of that
discreditable politicianing which so utterly denied and so nearly un-
did the vast, gentle wisdom of Lincoln and the soldierly magnan-
imity of Grant. Though the story is rather subordinated to the
historical coloration, it is a good story ; and the picturing of Gettys-
burg— ^where the rebel hero is "shot to pieces" and nursed back to
life by a Union girl — of the Ku Klux, the neg'ro denomination, the
vulgar carpet-baggers, and other features of the period, would make
good reading without a story at all. The Macmillan Co. , 66 Fifth
Avenue, New York. $1.50.
60 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
THB An unexpected saltpetre of humor crackles in the ^ges of
CITY Sidney H. Preston's The Abandoned Farmer, a quiet look-
"haysbBd." ing volume which turns out to be most uncommon funny.
The experiences of the typically *' tenderfoot" first-person and his
superior wife " Marion'* in abandoning their city cage and dwelling
upon an abandoned farm are told with a certain cleverness which
avoids the appearance of forcing ; thougH in less adroit hands many
of the situations would appear far fetched. As a matter of fact the
author has made a very diverting story. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 153
Fifth Avenue, New York. $1.25.
MOT QuiTB T. Jenkins Hains, author of The Windjamtners, has put to
THB WIDOW'S sea again in The Cruise of The Petrel; a tale of 1812 and a
CRUSB. privateering that was as good as piracy. There is action
enough, and not badly told if not wholly convincing. The book is
not literature, but a good enough story. McClure, Phillips A Co.,
New York. $1.25.
BBNBATH Dr. B. S. Goodhue, whose Beneath Hawaiian Palms and
OTHBB Stars was once remarked upon in these pages, seems to be a
*' PALMS." proper good fellow and sound physician. One of his many
virtues is that he does not like my reviews. Neither do I. But I like
his letters saying so, and hope for another soon. His new book, Out
of the Pigeon-Moles, carries the war into Africa, and will doubtless
make all reviewers tremble — these awful "hack writers" whose only
business is to '* tear down." '* About the easiest thing in the world
is to be a critic," — and so it is, sometimes. But then again it is
hard. Kven Dr. Goodhue is also a critic. Amid these ^'essays"
(apparently, from a Michigan medical journal) and " pomes" in many
keys, he ftads time not only to '* tear down" the critics and criticise
Markham and Shakespeare and a few other things, but to favor us
with his conviction : ** I do not think Kipling has earned the title of
poet. Kipling cannot last." *' All genius has not been oxydized,
and much of it keeps out of the standard magazines." Here in the
book is a lot that ''keeps out." A friend gets into the book with :
*' Had you (Dr. G.) done what Markham did, it would not have sur-
prised me." Neither would it have surprised the doctor, if we may
guess by a sample feather from his dove-cote:
" If we pass up our fellows, sir.
Remember now we offer
To soon come up and let you
Pass us if you like, sir.
So do not pluck us since we are
Such plucky loyal boys, sir.
And if you pass us, rest assured
We'll never pass again, sir."
If Markham could write poetry like that, and pay to have it printed
in a book, he wouldn't need to fritter himself on '* standard maga-
zines" at $100 a page. Geo. F. Butler Pub. Co., Alma, Mich. $1.
The Macmillan Pocket American and English classics, neat 16
mos., in levanteen, now include 31 volumes, the latest being Tenny-
son's Idylls of the King* Portrait, introduction and notes, 25c.
The Detroit Photographic Co. is publishing some of the finest
color photos of California and the West that have been seen. The
negatives are by that dean of Western photographers, W. H. Jack-
son, and the coloring by a new patent process. Detroit, Mich.
Frotn a Swedish Homestead, by Selma Lragerldf , translated by
Jessie Brochner, is a quiet, homely, attractive recital of the olden
stories and some modem ones. McClure, Phillips A Co., New
York. $1.50.
The editorship of this department is taken np as a matter mbssagb
both of duty and of opportunity and with the joy that ^^ "^^^
lightens every Ubor of love. The writer feels that he U auttDBRS.
picking- up the broken thread of past work and proceeding- to weave
his little neb of public opinion at the same old shuttle of the maga-
zine pag«. For he had no sooner "discovered" inigfation and the new
civilization it is tninging forth from the dry lands of the West than
he proceeded to launch a publication wherein he might preach the
gospel to the heathen on both sides of the continent. That was years
ago. And even if it be said by those who shouldn't, TSe Irrigalion
Age was influential and institntional. It stood for an Idea. It
foaght for what it conc«ived to be just laws, pro|p«ssive policies, and
lofty institutions. It shot an arrow into the air which, falling to
earth it knew not where, was found long afterward in the heart of
an oak. That oak— now bent in the brecse of Faction, now swayed
by the winds of Prejudice, but waxing ever stronger and higher — is
a mighty Public Sentiment. The river of events which flowed from
the lonely peak of personal enthusiasm, deepening and widening
with the passing years, has made some history already and will make
far more. Some day, if the writer be spared unto gray and garrul-
ous old age, he hopes to tell the whole story of the rise and progress
of a Cause which, originally as dry and repellant as thedeserta them-
selves, blossomed at last into strength and beauty and bore the white
flower of civiliKation. But we are yet in the thick of events. Only
the threshold has ;been crossed. At this time, rather more than
ever before, there is need of preaching, teaching and doing. Why
ahotUd not Thb Land of Sdnssime — by common acknowledgment
the best expression of our literary aspirations — also carry the mes-
sage of the builders of the West 7 It is believed that it may do so
without losing any of its usefulness, and even with substantial gain
to ftll elements among its patrons. It ought, indeed, by so doing, to
widen its circle of influence and deepen its foundations in public
Thenewc«nturyon which we have set out will be, in many onn
respects, the most illustrious in human history. In a pecu- Fokb-
liar sense it will be the century of the Trans-Uissonri West, fathkrhood.
-of Irrigation and Arid America. We who are here today — a mere
handful when looked at in the large Tlsion of the futnre — will be re-
.gnrdcd as forefathers t>y the millions who com* after ns. And we
62 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
bear all the responsibilities of forefatherhood. We are making' the
laws, shaping the customs, and forming the institutions of a land
different from any other where the Anglo-Saxon has made his home
The new environment brings us a brood of new problems and issues;
foremost among them, those growing out of the imperious necessitj
of irrigation.
THE Now, irrigation is a manj-sided affair. Palpably the
ISSUB OF problem of the engineer and the farmer, it is no less the
^"^^ problem of the student of economics, the social philos-
opher, and the statesman. There is a whole world of interest in it.
Few saw that this was so at first. To Western people it bore only
the aspect of a hard necessity, and to H<astern people it was abso-
lutely the driest and dreariest subject that could be mentioned. To
invest it with human interest, to show its relation to national growth
and national character, to make it an issue that should appeal to the
heart and the imagination as something promising vastly to improve
the estate of our middle classes, — "the plain people*' of I^incoln's
phrase — was a task of prodigious difficulty not to be accomplished in
a day nor a year. To have accomplished it in half a generation is
glory enough for the friends of the movement up to this time. At
last, all this is realised and conceded by thinking men E^ast and
West, and, perhaps, East rather more than West. Such recognition
was absolutely essential before we might hope to take up the subject
in all its aspects and proceed to solve it. But, thank God 1 the time
has come when this may be done. And solving it is the price of
growth and development to the West ; the price of peace and safety
to the nation at large.
THB After the water has been provided we must have the set-
INDISPENSABI^B tier. Sometimes, it must be confessed, we get the settler
SKMi^R. ^^^ g^jj^ ^jjg water afterwards. That, however, is neither
safe nor logical, to say nothing of its honesty. The problem of set-
tlement is attended with difficulties second only to those which sur-
round the primary question of irrigation. Without the settlers to
occupy the lands, reservoirs and canals are practically worthless.
Millions of dollars have been invested without a proper appreciation
of this fact. Even those most familiar with the situation have been
slow to realise that there are certain fundamental differences between
the colonization of lands that are irrigated and those that depend
upon natural rainfall for their productiveness. To our obtuseness on
this subject are due many bad investments and quite a number of dis-
appointed settlements. What class of colonists are best suited to
home-making on irrigated lands ? Where are they to be sought and
by what methods enlisted ? How should their labors be organized
and directed to get the best results ? What is the best size of the
farm unit under the conditions that prevail in California and other
States of the arid region ? What class of crops should the settlers
be encouraged to produce ? And how can these crops best be
marketed ? These are a few of the many questions involved in the
20TH CENTURY WEST. 63
problem of settlement which follows so closely upon irrigation in
any giyen place. They are questions, too, that we shall deal with
upon a constantly growing scale as the development of the country
progresses.
The strongest force in the economic life of the United "Thou
States today is cooperation. The ablest and most success- shax,T
fnl men in the country are preaching this gospel in the most ^.w^** ^.
practical and eloquent fashion, since deeds speak louder than words.
There is something in the condition of the times which drives men
into acting together. Now, it most fortunately happens that of all
lands on the face of the earth those which are compelled to resort to
irrigation are most favorably situated for the employment of this
commanding force in our national life. The early settlements along
the Atlantic coast, and in the valleys of the Ohio and the Mississippi,
did not develop the cooperative characteristic extensively because
neither the times nor the physical conditions demanded it. Men
felled the forest or turned the prairie sod, tilled the land and built
towns and cities, with very little of that organized cooperation which
is the dominant spirit of today. But the first patch of potatoes was
not planted in Arid America without a perfect example of such or-
ganization. If it had been, there would have been no harvest and
silence would reign unbroken in the Salt Lake Valley of Utah, the
classic land of American irrigation. Rivers cannot be turned from
their courses by the labor of individuals working singly and alone.
On the mountains and rivers and deserts of this far-western country
Nature has written, in language that may neither be misunderstood
nor disobeyed : "Thou shalt cooperate I " Failing to recognize this
fact, we should fail in any effort to interpret the history of our finest
examples of western civilization. And how utterly should we fail to
grasp the possibilities of our future !
In the foregoing paragraphs the editor has set forth, briefly thb
and superficially, the scope of this department as it will be editoriai,
developed hereafter. Irrigation, colonization, cooperation — progkam.
these are the three great questions involved in the making of our
Twentieth Century West. They present many and various aspects
and may be discussed from widely differing standpoints. But they
cannot be avoided. They are the three great foundation-stones
whereon shall rise the future civilization. The superstructure to be
built upon them will be ugly or beautiful, weak and flimsy, or solid
and enduring as our everlasting mountains, according as these
foundations shall be laid false or laid true. Reverting again to the
f orefatherhood of the sparse generation now dwelling among these
mountains and valleys and along this western seacoast, it is easy to
realize our responsibility to the future — to our children and our
children's children.
64 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
THE We can hope to make no progress with the discussion of
VIRTUE OF matters, so vital to the readers of this mag^ine, unless at
TOi^BRANCB. ^j^^ beginning we promise to be tolerant of each other's
opinions and patient with each other's differences. Of all human
virtues that of tolerance is not far from the first. Nothing can be
settled among bigots. Bigotry can not even learn ; much less can it
impart. The writer is aware that there are able and honest men who
differ with him upon each of the three questions which are chieflj to
be discussed in this department. He is also gratefully aware that there
are many who agree with him. What we all want to do is to find the
simple, glorious truth, because we are all interested in having the
truth prevail. We all want onr beloved West — our beloved Arid
America — to be the best land under the sun. We are interested alike
in its present prosperity and in the institutions which are to be en-
joyed by those who shall live here when we have done our little work
and gone our unknown way. There is not one among us who imag.
ines that he or his family can be made prosperous through the misery
or disappointment of all the other millions, nor is there one mean
enough to seek prosperity by that method even if he believed it could
be had. It is an accepted maxim that while truth cannot suffer from
the light, error languishes from exposure. What better service, then,
can this department do for the men and women who are building the
West, and for those other builders who are going to join us hereafter,
than to take up vital questions for fair, honest, unprejudiced discus-
sion ? Promising to be tolerant himself, the editor of this depart-
ment asks his readers of every shade of opinion to meet him in the
same spirit. He will be glad of their criticisms and suggestions.
Many of them, doubtless, he has had the pleasure of addressing from
the public platform or from the pages of various newspapers and
magazines. Many more he hopes to meet in that way hereafter, and
he will always be glad to receive communications from those who
have anything to offer in favor or against ideas suggested in these
pages.
SOME In the next number of this department the railroad move-
AUGUST ments now making for the development of the Southwest
FEATURES. ^jjj ^ reviewed, and the influence which recent combina-
tions in transportation lines may exert upon Western settlement and
production will be carefully considered. Another feature of interest
will be a review of the condition and prospects of the various fruit
exchanges of California, especially those handling the citrus, raisin
and prune crops. Some important aspects of the struggles of lyos
Angeles, Sacramento, San Diego and Redlands with the problems of
municipal water supply will be treated in relation to a possible future
policy of public irrigation works. Prof. D. T. Fowler of Berkeley
will tell the story of the Rochdale cooperative movement in Cali-
fornia, and the first installment of a series of studies on " How to
Colonize the Pacific Coast" will appear.
65
State and National Irrigation
Policies.
BOTH PARTS OF A COMMON CAUSIS, **ONB AND INSEPARABI^E. "
*PTER ten years of organized ag^itation, as vigorous,
tireless and persistent as was ever accorded in
support of a popular cause, the irrigation move-
ment is now upon the verge of its first great triumph.
Nothing can cheat it of this victory save discord, di-
vision, and cross^purposes among its friends. Is there
danger from this source ? Unhappily, it seems that there
is. If such be the fact it would be a poor service to at-
tempt to disguise it and a good service frankly to admit it
and then proceed, if possible, to explain away the grounds
of misunderstanding from which it arises.
I.
ON CERTAIN MISUNDERSTANDINGS.
At its last session the National Irrigation Congress
adopted a platform as admirable as it was brief. But to
declare that it is the duty of the Nation to store the floods
and preserve the forests ; that water rights should inhere
in the land irrigated, and actual beneficial use be the meas-
ure of the right, is one thing ; while to frame a precise
measure to carry these ideas and principles into effect,
reconciling the delicate relations existing between the sev-
eral States and the Nation, is a thing entirely different and
infinitely more difficult, and yet the latter must be accom-
plished before there can be any substantial result. To
have a member from Nevada introducing one bill, a mem-
ber from Colorado framing another, a member from Idaho
suggesting a third, and a member from Utah characteriz-
ing all the proposed legislation as probably unconstitu-
tional— this, surely, is a perilous way of making progress.
When to ttis complicated and tortuous method of states-
manship we add internal dissensions among those foremost
in the championship of the cause, we are certainly not
working out a great policy which shall make homes for
millions at an early date. As to the internal dissensions,
it is clear to the writer that they arise wholly from mis-
understandings which it ought to be possible to correct.
In California, irrigation sentiment is strongest at the
South. This sentiment was offended at the very beginning
of the State movement in a manner as needless as it was
deplorable. The simple truth is that those who committed
the offense of casting reflections upon the National move-
ment entirely failed to appreciate its dignity and import-
66 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
ance. They had not been personally in touch with it and
knew nothing: of its wide and thorough organization.
Their ignorance of the matter betrayed them ^ into a blun-
der which earned the opposition of some of i the best and
strongest influences in the southern counties.
On the other hand, the attacks recently made upon the
leaders of irrigation thought in the great arid States of
Wyoming, Colorado, Nebraska, Utah, Idaho and Nevada —
attacks emanating from some of the most conspicuous ad-
vocates of National irrigation in Southern California — are
equally harmful and unfortunate. All that is now needed
to make the brewing of our hell-broth complete is for the
Rocky Mountain leaders to denounce their Southern Cali-
fornia critics in terms of equal bitterness. When this has
been done, and the scandal of our dissensions aired in the
halls of Congress by some of our dearest enemies from the
East and Middle West, we shall have defeated ourselves
more completely and miserably than could have been ac-
complished by all the inertia and positive opposition in
other parts of the country.
Is it not possible at this supreme moment in the history
of the movement to avoid misunderstanding and to work
together for the result we all desire ? The writer so hopes
and believes, and the object of this article is to enable him
to do what he can to that end.
n.
TH^ STATKS MUST CONTROI, DISTRIBITTIGN OF WATBR.
One of the propositions upon which all scientific au-
thority in the West seems to be agreed is that control over
the'appropriationi'and'distribution of non-navigable streams
must be exclusively exercised by the States.
In the first place, several States, including those in the
Rocky Mountains holding the headwaters of important
streams, entered the Union with .this distinct provision in
their constitutions. Without repealing the^e constitutions
and disturbing the entire fabric of the irrigation industry
the necessity of State control of our -irrigation administra-
tion could not be abolished.
But it has never been suggested, by statesman or jurist,
by Congress, political party or commercial organization,
that this function should be taken from the States and
turned over to the Nation even if such a revolution might
readily be accomplished. It would be as unnatural a pro-
ceeding as to taLke the control of roads from county and
State authorities, or as to take the control of streets, side-
walks, and fire departments from cities and towns. To
20TH CENTURY WEST. 67
handle the details of the irrigation industry distinctly be-
longs to the sphere of local government. What public
man or public body is on record to the contrary ? Surely
neither of the great political parties which last year, for
the first time, recognized the existence of the irrigation
issue in their platforms. The Republicans declared :
*'We recommend adequate National appropriations to re-
claim the arid lands of the United States, reserving control
of the distribution of water for irrigation to the respective
States and Territories,^'*
The Democrats declared :
** We believe it to be the duty of the general government
to provide for the construction of storage reservoirs and
irrigation works, so that the water supply of the arid re-
gions may be utilized to the greatest possible extent in the
interest of the people, while -preserving the rights of the
States^''
The Irrigation Congress, the Trans-Mississippi Con-
gress and other public bodies of the most representative
character, " have repeatedly adopted declarations to the
same effect. Let the point be made clearly. Practically
everybody now agrees that it is desirable to have the
Nation^d Grovernment build reservoirs beyond the scope of
private capital, particularly for the irrigation of lands still
a part of the public estate. But when these reservoirs are
built, nobody, apparently, proposes that any authority isave
that of the several States shall be charged with the duty
of making and administering laws governing the appro-
priation and distribution of the water so secured, together
with the water already in use. If this much be admitted,
we are ready to take up another branch of the subject.
m.
STATB RKFORM MUST PRKCKDS NATIONAI, CONSTRUCTION.
The States, then, are to control the distribution of water
to be impounded in National reservoirs. We are asking
the nation to furnish some tens of millions of dollars in
order that the irrigated area of the West shall be multi-
plied, and especially, in order that the arable portions of
the public lands may be thrown open to settlement. Clearly,
it is of the highest importance to the American people that
the water supplies which they shall undertake to furnish
shall be so used as to secure these ends.
What is the present condition of the water laws in
nearly all Western States, including California ?
They are utterly unsuited to the needs of an arid region.
Our necessities demand that every drop of water shall be
taken out of natural channels and conducted over the land
68 LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
until the last possible acre shall have been redeemed. And
yet, in most of our States, we have the riparian law which
commands us to let the stream flow as it has always flowed,
'* unimpaired in quality and undiminished in quantity/'
This incongruous law, though slightly modified by judicial
decisions, is a lion in the path of progress.
Over the precious right of appropriation, which lies at
the foundation of every valid claim to water, we exercise
no supervision whatever. When a stream has been claimed
ten times over we still allow new appropriators to come in
and claim it again and again. There is no remedy except
litigation — litigation endless and pitiless.
And even all this litigation frequently decides nothing.
Why ? Because we have no public authority over the dis-
tribution of water. Each man tends his own headgate
and defies his neighbor to get what belongs to him, spite
of judicial decrees.
If National reservoirs could be constructed without any
accompanying reform of these vicious laws what would
the result be when the new supply should be turned into
the streams ? It would be something not far from civil
war. Canal proprietors would turn out with henchmen
and shotguns to take violent possession of all the water
they could get into their headgates. Water provided at
public cost for public uses would be gobbled by private
canals and offered for sale. The evils arising out of present
conditions would be intensified.
Is it imagined that these stern facts are not appreciated
by Western Congressmen, and even by those of the East
who take our cause at all seriously ? With scarcely a
stream in the arid regions not already over-appropriated,
these lawmakers well understand that, before National
reservoirs can effect the desired results, old rights must be
adjudicated and a good system of public supervision be
established to safeguard the appropriation and distribution
of the new supplies which it is proposed to mingle with
the common flood of our streams.
Hence, it may be said that State reform must precede, or at
least accompany, the actual initiation of the policy of
National irrigation. Those who insist upon setting our
house in order by the adoption of these reforms are the
best friends of the National movement. And every friend
of the National movement should stand for State reform.
The two policies are so closely interwoven that they must
stand or fall together.
Are not these facts perfectly plain ? If so, should not
every man who wants to see our dry land watered and
peopled, stand shoulder to shoulder for both these policies ?
20TH CENTURY WEST, »
IV.
THE CHBYSNN9 CONPSiUSNCE.
The imblic land aspect of the irrigation question is far
more urgent in the Rocky Mountain States than in Cali-
fornia, because a much larger proportion of the former still
belongs to the government. These States are also ahead
of California in their ideals of water legislation, owing to
the influence of Wyoming, whose pioneer statesmen early
placed it upon the right track.
So it happened that a conference was called to meet at
Cheyenne, to be attended by State Engineers and Senators
and Representatives in Congress. The avowed object of
the meeting was to frame a definite measure of legislation
to be urged at Washington next winter. This conference
has been vigorously attacked as something quite inimical
to the National movement. Klwood Mead — one of the
fathers of National irrigation, twice president of the Irri-
gation Congress, ten years State Engineer of Wyoming,
lecturer at Berkeley, Harvard, Wesleyan, New York and
Princeton on Irrigation Economy, and Expert in Charge
of Irrigation Investigations for the United States Govern-
ment— was denounced as the evil spirit of the enterprise.
His career and his fame place him beyond the need of
defence.
The truth is that the Cheyenne conference was called at
the instance of certain members of Congress who desire to
see the West united on some practical measure, and then
to lend their personal aid in having it enacted. They de-
sired to meet the State Engineers because they are men of
wide information and special training in this department
of knowledge.
The possibility that the lands may be ceded to the
States has been mentioned in current criticisms of the
Cheyenne conference. So far as the writer is informed,
this fear is wholly groundless. Ten years ago the strong-
est influences in the West favored this policy. They did
so because it seemed to them the only feasible means of
overcoming the stagnation of the arid region. The few
who openly favored National works at that time were de-
nounced as crazy Socialists. There seemed no hope except
that the States might be induced to assume the burden
that the Nation rejected. But a wonderful change has
come over public sentiment in a few short years. Nearly
everybody prefers that the Nation should reclaim its own
lands. We have persuaded ourselves that it will do so.
The new policy has so many advantages over the old that
we shall fight for its accomplishment so long as it seems
70 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
possible. And, happily, it seems more and more possible
with every passing* year.
The whole object of the Cheyenne cx)nference was to
render the adoption of the National policy more probable
and to hasten its coming.
V.
A FSASIBLS MEASURE LOOKING TO STATE AND NATIONAL
COOPERATION.
The measure of legislatien which shall meet all the needs
of the situation, and command the united support of the
friends of irrigation, must be framed in the light of all the
foregoing facts. It must satisfy the demands of those
who believe the chief point just now is to inaugurate the
policy of National appropriations for the construction of
National works. It is equally important that it should
recognize the justice and necessity of State administration.
Finally, the measure must give full assurance to the
Nation that the interests of all its citizens will be pro-
tected, and that the land and water to be brought together
as the result of this work shall be used to the advantage
of the people at large.
It will not be disputed that all measures so far proposed
have fallen far short of this ideal. Some of them, by ig-
noring existing rights in water and failing to make any
provision for a plan of cooperation between States and
Nation, would have resulted in presenting to the West a
Pandora's box of troubles. Others would have endangered
the interests of the American people in their great patri-
mony of public land. None of them has commanded any-
thing approaching united support at the West, nor im-
pressed Eastern legislators with the feeling that we
thoroughly grasp the situation and are able to deal with
it upon broad lines of statesmanship.
Since the adjournment of Congress last March some of
the best informed men in the West have conferred among
themselves with a view of developing a sound plan of
action. While it is not to be pretended that definite re-
sults have yet been obtained, it now appears as if the
long-desired measure would be framed upon the following
lines:
1. The groundwork of the new policy will be the bill
introduced last winter by the Hon. Francis G. Newlands
of Nevada. Its chief provisions are as follows : All
monies received from the sale of arid lands (now amount-
ing to about $4,000,000 a year) shall constitute an Arid
Land Reclamation Fund and be available for the construc-
tion of storage reservoirs and main canals to be used
20TH CENTURY WEST. 71
chiefly for the irrigfation of public lands ; lands thus re-
claimed shall be open to the entry of actual citizens in
tracts not exceeding forty acres to each entryman ; such
lands shall be sold at the rate of $10 per acre upon easy
terms of payment ; water stored in excess of the needs of
public lands in any given locality may be purchased by the
owners of private lands at the rate of $10 per acre ; funds
received from sale of lands and water shall be returned to
the Reclamation ^und and applied again in the same
manner.
2. A proposed addition to the Newlands bill shall pro-
vide that only those States may avail themselves of the
Arid Land Reclamation Fund which shall have first
enacted legislation providing for the adjudication of all
existing rights and for public supervision of appropria-
tion and distribution of water. In other words, no State
will receive National aid unless it has established a good
system of administration. A precedent for this policy was
established when the Carey Law was enacted in 1894,
granting one million acres of public lands to each of the
States upon the sole condition that said States should first
enact the certain supplemental legislation dictated") by/ the
act of Congrress.
3. Another addition to the Newlands bill shall provide
for the creation of a National Irrigation Commission con-
sisting of three members, one* from the Interior Depart-
ment, one from the War Department, and one from the
Agricultural Department. It would be the duty of this
commission, as representing the Nation, to pass upon and
authorize all projects to be undertaken with the aid of
National appropriations. Before such works could actu-
ally be begun this Commission would certify to their sound-
ness and feasibility from engineering, financial and agri-
cultural standpoints. Actual construction could be done
under joint National and State Supervision, as in the case
of the debris work now under way in California ; or by
either State or National administration, as shall be de-
termined. Perhaps the first method will best meet all the
needs of the situation, since it is founded upon the idea of
cooperation between the interested powers.
Is there anything in the foregoing plan which may not
cordially be approved both in Southern California and in
Wyoming ? True, we shall not be satisfied ultimately with
so small an appropriation as $4,000,000 a year, especially
when results shall have demonstrated the wisdom of
National aid to irrigation. But the great thing now is to
make a beginning. Those most familiar with the temper
of Congress believe the Newlands bill can be passed, but
7a LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
are not hopeful of lar^re immediate appropriations inde-
pendent of current receipts arising from the sale of lands.
The provision which the suggested plan would make for
State administration is absolutely essential from the con-
stitutional standpoint, and is necessary as a guarantee to
the Nation that when the flood waters have been impounded
they will be applied in good faith as a means of giving the
people access to public lands. The provision of a National
Commission composed of representatives of three existing
departments will entail practically no expense, yet provide
precisely the expert supervision which all agree to be in-
dispensable.
In conclusion, it cannot be too strongly urged that State
and National irrigation are both integral parts of one
great plan. This fact is thoroughly accepted by those who
are striving for a reformed and unified system of State
laws. Is it not equally plain to those who have been de-
voting their efEort chiefly to the National cause ? I may,
perhaps, appropriately close this article in the words with
which I opened the campaign of the California Water and
Forest Association at Los Angeles one year ago :
"In my anxiety to make the point plain, I am even
tempted to venture upon a paraphrase of the immortal elo-
quence of Webster where, in the reply to Hayne, noblest
thought was joined to noblest speech, and to say : Behold
the gorgeous ensign of our cause, still full high advanced,
bearing for its motto no such miserable interrogatory as,
What is all this worth f Or, those other words of delusion
and folly, Nation first and State afterwards^ but blazing on
all its ample folds, as they float over mountain, valley and
plain, and in every wind under the whole heavens, that
other sentiment, dear to every true American heart. State
and Nation, now and forever, one and inseparable."
The National Irrigation Congress is ten years old this
year, and the approaching session at Buffalo next October
would be justified in celebrating the event. The first Con-
gress was held at Salt Lake City in 1891. The subsequent
sessions were as follows : Los Angeles, 1893 ; Denver,
1894 ; Albuquerque, 1895 ; Phoenix, 1896 ; Lincoln, 1897 ;
Cheyenne, 1898; Missoula, Mont, 1899; Chicago, 1900.
The Presidents of the organisation have been C. C.Wright,
J. S. Emery, Elwood Mead (twice), John E. Prost, John
M. Carey (twice), C. B. Boothe, and Thomas J. Walsh.
The Chairmen of the National Committee ha\re been
Arthur L. Thomas, William E. Smythe, E. R. Moses, and
George H. Maxwell.
William E. Smythb.
73
How We Adjudicated the Water
Rights of Wyoming
BY FRED BOND, STATE KNOtNEKR.
^rtHE worst evil — that of ceaseless litigation over
^1 water rights — that afflicts the irrigation industry
of California is now utterly unknown in Wyoming.
When the Territory became a State provision was made
for the adjudication of the existing claims to the streams
as a preliminary to the thorough and practical assertion of
the public authority over all the water supplies. As this
must of necessity constitute the first step in any intelligent
reform of the California laws some brief account of how it
was accomplished in Wyoming will be of interest at this
time.
The method of adjudication requires that all claims for
water from the streams of the State shall be brought be-
fore one tribunal, the State Board of Control. In order
that the Board ma}' have before it in the work of adjudica-
tion all the necessary physical facts, the stream is gaged,
and the ditches and the lands irrigated measured and
mapped, under the direction of the State engineer. Pub-
licity is secured by a notice in some newspaper of the
county in which the stream is located, of the time of be-
ginning of the survey and examination of the lands and
ditches and of the place and time of taking testimony in
support of existing claims. The superintendent of the
division in which the stream is located is also required to
send by^ registered mail a copy of this notice to each part}^
having a recorded claim to the waters of the stream under
adjudication. A blank is also mailed with this notice.
These statements include all the important facts necessary
to an understanding of the claim.
At the time and place fixed in the notice for the taking
of testimony the claimants appear before the division
superintendent and each under oath prepares his statement.
If statements that cannot be included in the form used are
needed to complete the presentation of any case they are
reduced to writing and certified to under oath This is not
often necessary, as the blank form covers all the essential
facts for the establishment of a right. After the state-
ments are completed, a notice by publication and by regis-
tered mail is given to all claimants that at a named time
and place all the claims submitted will be open for in-
spection. This gives each claimant full opportunity to ex-
amine the other statements and to know exactly what is
claimed by others. As all the ditches and lands irrigated
have been measured and mapped, and the division superin-
74 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
tendent has made a personal investigfation of all the works
before the claimants come to him, and the engineer who
made the survey is present at the examination, the state-
ments accord closely with the facts, and there is usually
little ground for disagreement. If, however, anj^ claimant
desires to contest the claim of another, notice must be
served on the division superintendent within fifteen days
after the inspection. The contest is heard before the
division superintendent in accordance with the rules and
practice governing in ordinary civil suits The superin-
tendent of the division has authority to issue subpoenas
and compel the attendance of witnesses necessary for a
proper hearing of the case. Before beginning the hearing
the contestant and contestee each deposit eight dollars with
the division superintendent. If the hearing lasts more
than a day like sums are deposited for each succeeding day.
After the Board has reached a decision the deposit of the
party in whose favor the case is decided is returned, that of
the loser is turned into the State treasury to the credit of
the maintenance fund of the Board of Control. This rule
tends to prevent the filing of false claims as well as to dis-
courage contests except for good cause. In the whole his-
tory of the Board there have not been to exceed a dozen
contests.
The statements of the claimants, all testimony taken in
the contested cases, copies of records, reports of surveys,
and maps of ditches and lands irrigated, are then sub-
mitted to the Board of Control, which proceeds to deter-
mine the extent and priority of each right. The Board is
so constituted as to peculiarly fit it for this work of adju-
dication. The State engineer, who is president and execu-
tive head of the Board, brings to his task, in addition to
professional skill and knowledge of the flow of the streams,
the resources of a well-equipped office with expert engineer-
ing assistants. If special or technical information, not
secured at the preliminary examination, is needed for the
proper adjudication of any case, it can be obtained at first
hand. The superintendent of a division in which the
stream is located has made a special study of this stream
and has full knowledge of the uses of water made by the
other appropriators, and is familiar with all the local con-
ditions. The other three superintendents are by the work
in their own division specially prepared for an intelligent
and impartial consideration of all the questions involved.
Such a tribunal does not need to act on prejudiced, incom-
petent and conflicting testimony as to acres irrigated,
capacity of ditches and flow of streams. That the super-
intendents must distribute the water in accordance with
20TH CENTURY WEST. 75
their own findings is an effective safeguard against any
hasty or careless procedure and is a constant and effective
stimulus to careful and well-considered action at every
step of the adjudication.
In determining the extent and priority of these rights,
certain well defined principles are kept in view. These
are :
First. That water is not subject to private ownership,
but is the property of the State.
Second. That the Board of Control is the trustee for
the administering of a great public trust in the interests of
the people of the State.
Third. That all rights to divert water from the streams
must be based on beneficial use, and that the right termi-
nates when the use ceases.
Fourth. That the volume diverted shall in all cases be
limited to the least amount actually necessary for the ac-
complishment of the purposes of the diversion.
Fifth. That under no circumstances shall the water di-
verted for irrigation exceed one cubic foot per second for
each 70 acres of land actually irrigated.
Sixth. That the right to the use of the public waters
attaches only to the use for which the right was originally
obtained.
Seventh. That the right of diversion for irrigation
attaches to the land reclaimed and none other ; that the
transfer of the land carries with it the right, and that
apart from the land the right cannot be transferred.
Eighth. That when a ditch waters land not the prop-
erty of the ditch owner the right attaches to the land on
which the water is used and not to the ditch. The owner
of the lands irrigated makes the proof of appropriation and
the certificate is issued to him. No certificate of appropria-
tion can be issued to a ditch owner for the watering of
land not his own. The ditch owner is a common carrier
and is subject to regulation as such.
Ninth. That when proper diligence has been exercised
in the construction of works and in applj'ing the water to
the purpose for which it is diverted, the priority is fixed by
the date of beginning the survey. When diligence is lack-
ing, the priority dates from the time of use.
At first the effect of the application of these principles
was not clearly understood, and these radical departures
from all previous practice were by some viewed with alarm
as tending to further unsettle rights and complicate the
already difficult problem. Especially was there opposition
to the limitation of rights to the use on the lands actually
irrigated. Each appropriator was inclined to stand for the
76 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
amount of his filing. But when the claims of the Little
Laramie, the first stream adjudicated, were reduced to form,
and these with the map showing the streams and ditches
and irrigated lands were submitted for the inspection of
the irrigators, there was a complete change of sentiment.
It was at once seen that to make the appropriation on the
basis of the filings would give all the water to the first
half dozen claimants and would leave 120 other ranchmen,
many of whom had used water for years, without any
legal rights in the stream. On the other hand, it was now
clear that the policy outlined by the Board would, while
protecting the earl)*^ appropriators, give every one water
for the land he had actually reclaimed. The idea that
rights should be based on use and be limited to the land
irrigated took on a new meaning. Even the earlier ap-
propriators, whose filings covered everything, and from
whom opposition was to be expected if from any, recog-
nized the justice and wisdom of what was proposed, and
the opposition vanished. In all the work of adjudication
these principles have been adhered to with results gener-
ally satisfactory to the irrigators. In the ten years which
have elapsed since this law was enacted more than 4,000
Territorial claims have been adjudicated. At every step of
the process provision has been made for appeal from the
findings of the Board to the district court. But since the
Board was organized but three appeals have been made and
in each case the Board was sustained. During the summer
of 1900 the Territorial rights on the Grey Bull river were
adjudicated. There were 236 of these claims, some of them
dating back over 20 years. The adjudication was accom-
plished without a contest and without one appeal from the
findings of the Board.
When the determination of rights on a stream has been
completed, a certificate is issued by the Board of Control to
each lawful appropriator, setting forth the priority and
volume of his diversion and describing the land to which
the right attaches. The right attaches to these lands and
to no other.
The fundamental idea in the establishment of a water
right in Wyoming is that public interests are to be first
considered, and that it is the business of the Board of Con-
trol to guard and protect the interests of all the citizens of
the State both present and prospective. The adjudications
of the Board are not contests between private interests, but
are a ministerial inquiry into the acts by which a citizen
seeks to become a partaker in the bounty of the State.
20TH CENTURY WEST. 77
A New Plymouth in Idaho.
jr ^OW to get the settlers for new districts in the West,
i^H« especially settlers possessed of character and suf-
ficient capital, is one of the problems of which we
have never known too much. The Plymouth Colony of
Idaho furnishes some light on this subject, although neither
an old nor a great settlement.
The Plymouth effort began with the adjournment of the
National Irrigation Congress of 1894, held at Denver in the
autumn of that year. A few who had been prominent in
this movement conceived the idea of establishing a colony
which should illustrate the feasibility of making small
farms on the arid lands. Localities in eight States were
examined before the site was selected. What was wanted
was a tract of fertile soil, watered by a completed irrigation
system with abundant supplies, and then a local interest
which would be warranted in backing an earnest effort with
a promotion fund of reasonable amount.
The right conjunction of favorable conditions was found
in the Payette vajley, in the southwestern corner of Idaho,
near the Oregon boundary. Here was a large tract of the
most fertile bench lands, covered with tall sagebrush. The
point selected was twelve miles from the Oregon Short Line
railroad and the same distance from the nearest town. A
few settlers had already located in the valley, but practi-
cally it was a wilderness. The Payette river, one of the
largest tributaries of the Snake, is a noble perennial stream,
having sufficient volume at its lowest stage to irrigate more
land than the valley contains. The climate of the locality
may be described as the best type of the temperate zone.
While the extremes of winter cold and summer heat are
very considerable, it is an excellent climate both for men
and for crops. . It is suited also to the production of - the
more delicate fruits, such as prunes and peaches.
Having selected the land and secured the necessary pro-
motion fund, the colony leaders went East to enlist settlers.
The plan of settlement which had been mapped out had
two or three unique features. In the first place, it was de-
sired that the colonists should be quite self-sufficient, and
to this end they were urged to diversify their crops so that
they might produce the variety of things which they would
consume. Exclusive fruit culture was believed to be an
evil which would in time bring a harvest of disappoint-
ment to those who built their hopes upon it. In the second
place, it was thought feasible for many, if not all, the set-
tlers to assemble their homes in a village center, so that
they might realize unusual social advantages from the be-
78 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
ginning. Finally, business cooperation was provided for
by the formation of a company in which all the settlers
were to be stockholders. This company was to own the
townsite and siich simple industries as might be created
from time to time
The colony obtained its first impulse in Boston, where
the battle cry, **It is time for a New Plymouth!" was
warmly echoed by a number of influential men, of whom
Edward Everett Hale was foremost. A public meeting
was held and a brief account of it telegraphed to the news-
papers throughout the country. Strangely enough, not a
single settler was obtained in Boston. But, even more
strangely, the Boston meeting resulted in the speedy en-
listment of a fine nucleus at Chicago, to which point the
campaign was quickly transferred as the result of the
manifestation of an unmistakable degree of public interest.
The Chicago work began with a modest meeting at the
Grand Pacific Hotel early in March, 1895 These meetings
were continued at intervals of one week over a period of
nearly two months. The Plymouth Society of Chicago
was formed at the first meeting. Its membership gradually
increased, until 250 heads of families were enrolled at the
end of the brief campaign. It is worth while to note the
fact that it was the colony plan, especially the social ad-
vantages of moving a number of families at one time and
grouping their homes in a village center, that aroused the
deepest interest, rather than the advantages of the locality
in which the settlement was to be made. Very little was
said about profits to be realized by the settlers. Their at-
tention was riveted upon the proposition of making homes
where they could work for themselves and achieve an inde-
pendence in the midst of pleasant surroundings. In a
word, most of the things which colony boomers do, the
Plymouth promoters left undone ; while most.of the things
colony promoters leave undone, the Plymouth promoters
religiously did.
At the seventh meeting, a committee, consisting of five
men and two women, was chosen to visit Idaho and report
upon the location and colony plan. The society defrayed
every cent of the committee's expenses, instructing it to
make the trip unaccompanied by the promoters, to travel
just as setlers would be expected to do, and to receive none
but the most ordinary courtesies while in Idaho. The
Society desired an honest report. However, it was found
that the location and feasibility of colony plan were all
that had been represented, and the report was in the
highest degree favorable.
When the committee returned, actual settlers were in-
vited to declare themselves by making a substantial pay-
20TH CENTURY WEST. 79
ment on account of land and colony stock. Porty-four
families responded, trustees were chosen, work on the town
site ordered to begfin, and a few months later the main body
of the colonists went forward. They succeeded in making
what is perhaps the most notable settlement in Idaho.
They have prospered steadily from the begfinning and
many other settlers have followed them to the Payette
valley. The irrigation works and large tracts of land,
which originally belonged to an Eastern company, have
passed into the hands of these settlers. The original
colony plan has been carried out to a large extent, especi-
ally its social features. These have been a great blessing
to the settlers.
The lesson of the Plymouth effort is that one good way
to get settlers is by means of meetings, lectures, and the
formation of clubs, and by encouraging investigation by
committees composed of intelligent, unprejudiced men and
women. Another lesson is that the class of homeseekers is
far more interested in getting homes and a living than in
glittering promises of enormous profits to be obtained in a
few years without much labor. Another prime advantage
of the Plymouth plan which should not be overlooked is
that settlers like to be moved in groups rather than by
single families. Actually, it seems easier to get forty fam-
ilies to move to a new country together than to get one alone
A Study of California Irrigation.
|OSSIBLY the most important government document
dealing with California issued in recent years is the
elaborate forthcoming work from the Bureau of Ir-
rigation Investigations. The studies which form the basis
is of this work were conducted during the summer of 1900
b3' a body of eight experts under the management of El-
wood Mead. The aim of the investigation was to lay bare
the actual operations of existing California water laws.
To this end eight typical streams were selected and a well
known expert assigned to each. The experts were assisted
b3' employees of the agricultural department in measuring
streams, making abstracts of the records of water filings,
and collecting judicial decisions.
When the work had been finished, after months of labor,
the experts compared results and united in favor of a series
of recommendations aiming at the reform of present laws
and the abuses growing out of them. The book, hand-
somely illustrated, is now going through the government
press at Washington. Those who desire to obtain it
should make early application to their Congressman.
The Resorts of Southern Cali-
fornia.
Jl^HERE is no country in the world of the
'I population of Southern California.,
^ that has so many attractive resorts
easily reached and of such varied char-
ter. They are strung: along the sea-board
e pearls on a silver wire, or nestle in the
epcaiions of the Sierras, or cap some of the
{hest points of the range, ofFering' to the
lasure-seeker every possible altitude and
matic condition. In some incomprehen-
>le manner the oasis of Southern Califor-
nia, one of the garden spots of the
earth, between the desert and the deep
sea, has become famous as a winter
resort, while, in reality, there is no
summer climate in any civilised land
that compares to it where a comfort-
able summer outing- is the objective.
The tourists seem;determined to make it
Opc Sakta Bakbaha. ^^^ American Riviera. They come in
November and leave in May, thus losing
the most perfect months of the year ; but the time is probably coming
when the resorts of Southern California will have as large a quota of
Extern and European visitors in summer as in winter. There is an
embarrassment of riches in deciding where to go in summer. If one
StiU^WATB* BOATINd A
SUMMER RESORTS- 81
is fond of sport it is an easy matter. The Sierras abound in trout
«lreams and game of various kinds. Mt. Lowe and Wilson's Peak
look down on gentle streams telling of the Hving rainbow that lurks
in their pools, while farther east, near Strawberry Valley, are lakes
stocked with mountain lake trout that offer tine sport in season.
The fact that the majority of the inhabitants of Southern Califor-
nia live within eight or ten miles of mountain ranges, the Sierras
or the smaller range of which Mt. Santiago is the sentinel, lends
an attraction to the sea. Santa Barbara and its attractive islands,
Ventura, Santa Monica, with its promenade, its bathing facilities, its
beautiful homes, its polo and golf, backed by the Sania Monica
range, and perhaps the Newport of this galaxy— Ocean Park. In
this new resort we have a charming evidence of the probability
that in a few years the entire coast-line will be a summer
city. Att the sports and pastimes of the Eastern Newport
are found here in miniature, with a climate that the real
Newport never dreamed of. Following along the beach we
find Terminal Island, with its artistic cottages, its miles of
electric lights, its fine surf, its yacht-club and fleet of racers, and
still'water boating, the popular summer home of many Los An-
geles families. Opposite lies Santa Catalina, which recalU Bar Har-
SUMMER RESORTS.
bor of th« East, though the place is unique, a wandering n
range stranded off shore, where the mouths of caiions
bays, and where the angler, he of the rod and reel, finds a field that
has no equal, as on the entire Southern California mainland coast
there is no smooth water for rod fishermen in small tKiats, but at
Santa Catalina and San Clemente one may float on seas of glass
and fight the tuna, sea bass and yellowtail in peace and comfort, as
here there is a lee from the long seaa that come in from the deep.
The game commissioners of the State of Maine estimate the
value of the rod-fishing sport to the State at four million dollars.
To any one who knows how many people go forth to fish in the
SUMMER RESORTS.
A D*y-s Catch at Coromado.
United States — to Florida, Maine, the Adirondacka and Canada
—-it is evident ^iiat tiiU wooderful fishing- ground and its monopoly
of the tuna fishing will before many years be one of the greatest
mag-nets in drawing- people from the East. The mainland is the
Riviera, the "American Italy"of Charles Dudley Warner; the opposite
islands constitute the American Madeira. Redondo, nith its fine
:'. F. Holder Tlai
SUMMER RESORTS.
The Record Tuna and OiHeiis at Avalos.
nharf fishing, its hotels and cottages, its sig-htly location, lies oppo-
site, deservedly a popular and fashionable resort, where cool breezes
fan the cheek all summer long'. Prom the sea on summer nig-hts the
coast-line for mites is studded with the lights of these charming
resDrtH,which,with theirhotels, cottages and hauntsof pleasure, would
do credit to many places a century old on the Atlantic coast. There
is one of the finest beaches in America, giving a hard drive of miles
in extent at low tide, reminding one of the famous tracks of Nahant
and Femandino. It is well named Long Beach— the site of a flourish-
ing city by the sea, which in summer is augmented by thousands
from the inland cities, who And in the fine surf bathing, the long
piers reaching out into the ocean, the yachts that lie in the ofiing,
attractions which bring them back year after year. The recent com-
pletion of the Hotel Rivera has removed the only handicap Long
Beach has had since the burning of its large tourist hotel some ten
years ago. Long Beach reminds one of the towns south of Long
Branch, near Asbury Park, iNew Jersey, one of the most populous
summer resorts in America. Here the Chautauqua society meets,
and golf, polo and the sixe of fish are questions not so much
discussed as at other points along shore. Between Long Beach
and Coronado there are many small resorts and beaches, delightful
resting places for the summer lounger — Newport, San Juan Capis-
trano, Santiago Canon, Del Mar, and many more leading on to
Coronado — which affords both Californians as well as the people
near the Mexican line a summer climate, like all the rest, as near per-
fect as can be imagined. Then the great and perfectly equipped
hotel, the pure artesian water, library, museum, surf and hot baths
all have their attractiveness. The inland bay for still water boating,
and illuminated night floats is also an unrivalled feature. Its tents
" DlSCOVEKIES AT TUKHI
SUMMER RESORTS.
At Stbawhbrhv Vallbv— S2S0 Pbet Above the Ocban.
oil the long peninsula are already famous as "Tent City"^pave(l,
sewered, lighted and orderly. Here one can liave everything ready
to order from furnished tent to spring chicken, or furnish his own
equipment of tent, food, etc., and make choice of social games and
pastimes or religious services.
The objective of the average citizen who has a vacation before him
is sport, and the ocean that breasts the Southern California coast i^
the finest fishing ground known, for the good reason that it has the
game fishes. There is the leaping tuna found only here, ranging
from 50 to 250poundB — the rod record ; the black sea bass, ranging up
to 375 pounds ; the white sea bass from 20 to 70 pounds ; the gamy
yellowtail from 17 to 50 pounds; the bonita, rock bass, surf fish, albi-
core, and many more, alTording a range for the rod fisherman— the
thorough sportsman — unequaled in the annals of sport. The people
of this coast are not obliged to go East or abroad to find summer
joys, climatic or otherwise ; they are at their own doors, and the
doors are wide open all along shore— and from mesa to high sierra.
San Joaquin County and Stockton,
THE Gateway City.
!
BY COIVIN B. BROWN.
'N ages gone, long before the time of man, so
goes the record written in the earth's great
sepulcher of rock, strange monsters disported
themselves in an inland sea where now lie the
interior valleys of California. Mountains rose
and fell ; water courses and glaciers carved the
face of nature in rugged peaks and pinnacles,
and, in time, were themselves obliterated. Ages
followed ages, and sediment heaped on sediment
filled up the great basin between parallel moun-
tain ridges, forming a soil so rich and deep that
its equal is scarce to be found elsewhere in the
world.
In the center of this great basin, where the
soil is deepest and richest and where the remains
of a prehistoric ocean exist in thousands of
acres of reclaimed peat land, lies the county
of San Joaquin. Where the sobbing waves
arose and fell, and the screaming sea bird
winged its noisy flight, now lie miles upon
miles of grains and grasses, vines and fruit
trees.
Of this rich land there are 912,000 acres,
capable of supporting a population as large
as that of the most densely populated West-
ern State. The people of San Joaquin are
fond of relating instances of what this soil
has done and is doing. They tell of an Italian
who, in twenty years, has accumulated a bank
account of $60,000 as the result of tilling an
acre and a half of ground. If questioned they
will admit that the largest part of this was
obtained by judicious investment of the an-
nual revenues from the little garden patch ;
still they hold it up as an example of what
their soil will do. They will tell you that the gardeners down the
river are raising 300 sacks of onions to the acre as a regular thing,
and all other vegetables in a corresponding proportion. These
vegetables are exceptionally early, and hundreds of carloads are
sent into the middle West every year, where they command good
prices.
Vegetables, however, form but a small part of the agricultural
wealth of San Joaquin county. Its great source of agricultural
wealth is its wheat. Here is the home of the combined harvester, a
machine which the Eastern farmer refuses to believe in until he has
The Grii>i.by Monument.
SAN JOAQUIN COUNTY AND STOCKTON. 93
seen it. His relatives who come West and return to tell him that
Galifomiana harvest their grain by means of a machine propelled by
steam or drawn by thirty-six horses, and that such a machine has
been known to cut, thresh and sack 100 acrca of fjrain in a day, are
scoffed at. But this is true, and more. Grain can be cut in the
morniDg-, ground into flour in the afternoon, and made into biscuits
in the evening. This is possible on account of the dryness of the
atmosphere, the grain actually "curing" while still on the atalk.
Owin^ to the improved methods of farming on a large scale, San
Joaquin county farmers find grain-growing the least onerous of all
lines of agriculture. There are but two seasons of lal>or, namely,
seed-time and harvest. The rest of the time the farmer may be a
man of leisure. This, coupled with the fact that there is a certain
market for his wheat crop and a chance that the price may go up,
causes him to engage in this industry when there are others which
promise a more profitable return. The resultisthat half the acreage
of the county, or. to be more specific, 500,000 acres, are sown to
That part of the county which is n:it planted to grain or vegetables
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
is set out in fruit trees, vineyards or alfalfa. Last year San Joaquin
county had 3.500 acres of vineyard, and hundreds of additional acres
have been set out this year. Of all fruit and nut-bearing trees, the
almond takes iirst rank in quantity. The apricot, peach, prune, pear,
fig', olive, cherry, oranj^e and lemon folloir in the order named, ac-
cording' to the county assessment roll.
The agricultural industry next in importance to grain and fruit
growing is dairying. Thousands of acres of land have been planted
to alfalfa, and, for the past few years, the annual increase in thor-
oughbred milk cattle has been very large. It is confidently pre-
dicted that thisinduatry will, Ijefore many years, be more important
than grain growing. Alfalfa grows to its greatest perfection when
properly irrigated, and there is a tine irrigation system in San Joaquin
county. Experts from the United Slates Department of Agriculture,
who have gone over
the field, report that
it offers unexcelled
on Dortu nities for
R Hav hv Machimekv. Pholo. hj- Tibbeli*.
SAN JOAQUIN COUNTY AND STOCKTON. 95
manufacture of milk products. The people have only of late yeara
begun to appreciate what this means for them. All of the con-
ditions which have made Holland the dairying center of the world
exist in this county, and it has none of Holland's disadvantages.
In other words, its land and canal taxes are low and it is summer
all the year round. It is argued, and with apparent reason, that if
the Dutch farmer can produce butter, cheese and condensed milk for
the European market, in the face of the highest land and canal tax
known, while at the same time t>eing compelled to house and
feed his stock six storm-driven months each year, the San Joaquin
county farmer has a much better opportunity to make money out
of dairying-
Men may plan to put the center of commercial life here there or
other where, but the force which for ages has been at work forming'
the rich alluvial deposits in San Joaquin county has decided the ques-
tion. Nature has declared that this great district shall bring forth
abundantly and that man shall here have a home where he can pro-
duce everythinfc necessary for hia comfort. Man has read the mes-
sage and steadily and prosperously the county has grown. The
people delight in telling the stranger that Stockton, the seat of gov-
ernment of this county, has always prospered; that during panic
years its banks have stood firm and its large business interests have
never staggered. This, they say, isdue to the absolute reliability of
crops, and the fact that there has always been a market for what the
farm, the mill and the factory produced.
To the east of San Joaquin county lies that group of mining
i>AN JOAQUIN COUNTY AND STOCKTON.
EtPmAL ViNHVAnn, nbaii Stockton. Photo, bj' HcCnllavb.
counties which first made California famous. Their mines are won-
derfully productive, and new discoveries are of common occurrence.
The thousands of people who are engaged in this industry trade with
the farmer, the merchant and manufacturer of San Joaquin.
Pboio. by TibbeUB.
SAN JOAQUIN COUNTY AND STOCKTON.
Some Futl-re Ones.
The mines in the mountains, and the verdure in the valley, have
met to invite the building up of a commercial center on tide water.
This is the city of Stockton with its 30,000 people. One-fourth of
all the wheat grown In California is here ground into flour. Nearly
one hundred factories raise their stacks within sight of the harbor.
It is this harbor that has made Stockton the chief manufacturing
and grain-shipping center of the interior of the State. Sixteen
steamers, twenty-five barges, and a fleet of one hundred sailing ves-
sels carry the products of .' .ctory, mill and farm to San Francisco,
ten hours distant by water, and two transcontinental railroads get
their share of business to other points.
1W> LAND OF SUNSHINE.
The city, situated as it is at the head of tide-water, is fanned with
cool breezes from the Pacific. Never a night in summer that the
population of this industrious city does not sleep beneath blankets ;
never a day or night in winter that the little bulb of quiclisilver in
the thermometer gets below thirty degrees.
Located on tides that flow to the Orient, Stockton is loading food-
stuffs which find their way on shipa which plow both the Pacific and
the Atlantic. Thousands of carloads of mill-stuffs are shipped each
year to points half way distant round the world. Slowly and steadily
the city's trade has grown, and its factories are multiplying. In a
report made by a committee of transportation agents to the House
Committee on Kivers and Harbors on a recent visit of the committee
to Stockton, it was shown that boats on the Ban Joaquin River last
year carried 600,000 tons of freight and 75,000 passengers. The
splendid waterway connecting Stockton with deep water has given to
its people the extremely low freight rate of 65 cents a ton for a 100-
mile haul. Another advantage possessed by Stockton is that it is a
freight terminal for two transcontinental railways, an advantage
possessed by but two other cities in California, namely, San Fran-
cisco and Los Angeles. The combination of tide water and trans-
continental railroad terminals is shared by but one other city in the
State, and that is San Francisco.
Pbolo. by TIbbelts.
Thh Tesla Co»l Hihhs, Alameda and San Jo*guiN Counties
102 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
The question of cheap fuel has been salved in the discovery of im-
mense quantities of oil in Kem county at the southern extremity of
the San Joaquin Valley. This oil is now laid down in Stockton at a
price which makes it cheaper for fuel than coal at $2.00 a ton. This
has invited Eastern capital, and plaos have been completed for the
building- of a large oil refinery and a coke plant. The latter industry
came about through the discovery that certain coal deposits contigu-
ous to Stockton made an excellent coke when burned in conjunction
with oil.
Natural g-as has been struck in Stockton in large quantities, and
l.v THIS State Hospitai. Grol-nds. Ptaoio, by Weave
is extensively used for lighting, beating- and making steam. There
are at present fourteen gas wells within the corporate limits, and
others are being drilled.
To enumerate the factories in Stockton would take much space, but
those especially worthy of mention outside of her flour mills and har-
vester works are a tannery, woolen mills, briquette factory, glove
factory, iron works, a factory for the manufacture of flexible mantels
for gas burners, a macaroni factory, wineries and ship yards ; most
of tliese are among the largest on the Pacific Coast.
To the southeast of .Stockton immense deposits of manganese, 11^6
in the manufacture of Bessemer steel, have been discovered and de-
veloped by the Teala Coal Company. This manganese is 58 per cent
pure, a purity so high that it easily competes with the Eastern prod-
uct, and is being shipped across the continent to Eastern steel works
in carload lots. Near this manganese are extensive deposits of lime
and clay for making Portland cement, and the manufacture of this
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
cement U now g-oLng on and
£ promiseB to add considerably to
I the wealth of San Joaquin county
o> and the city of Stockton.
S A pottery works ha« been
i started within the past few
^ months, and the clay from which
the ware is being- made is pro-
1 nounced to be one of the best for
~ the purpose found anywhere.
^ It takes more than factories
and business activity to make a
M city, however. Chasing- the dol-
^ lar is Init a part of the game
a of life. When one is making
one's money, it is well if he can
^ be living in a community whose
social life and educational ad-
^ vantages are all that they should
g be. The people of Stockton have
Z much to boast of in this reg^ard.
ij ■ They have not been too busy
0 1 to lose sight of those things
^ ^ which are essential to the enjoy-
n ji ment of life. They have not
US neglected to beautify their city.
■^ ^ There are miles of well paved
^^ streets lined with beautiful shade
S trees that in midsummer form an
g almost perfect bower with their
^ interlocking branches. So dense
i ia the shade that a birdseye view
I of the city makes it look more
>, like a heavy forest of shade trees
^ than the hustling manufactur-
I ing and commercial city it is.
£ It is not one or two favored
■„ streets that are thus shaded, but
« every residence street in the city
S is equally lined with splendid
J gum, acacia and other shade
Peeinng out from the dense
foliage, and set like gems in
fields of amethyst are the homes
of the people. It is doubtful if
there is a city of its size any-
where having a larger number of
beautiful homes. Take a car-
The Stockton Fat
106 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
ria.ge and drive through ten miles of streets, and it is doubtful if
you will be able to tell when you have finished which street im-
pressed you most fav orably. Nearly every home
is built OQ architectu ral lines, prettily painted
Wheiie"C);aii"ReedOj(ceTaugrt Schoomk Stocktoii. UcCullaEh. Ptaoion
running- over the corner of the bouse, and when these roses are ir
bloom the sight reminds one of the statement of a famous Londor
SAN JOAQUIN COUNTY AND STOCKTON. I07
auctioneer, who, fearing- he had praised too highly the place he was
aelliDgfi said : " But, ladies and gentlemen, this beautiful estate has
two dra.wback3, which I feel 1 must mention— they are the noise of
the nightingale and the litter of the rose leaves."
A citj which pays so much attention to the streets and homes must
necessarily lack nothing in the architecture of its public buildings,
and the equipment of its schools. Stockton has public buildings
costing one and a half million dollars. Its court-house is one of the
flneat in the State atld is situated in the very business center of the
city. Its public library building is one of the moat beautiful bits of
architectnre of the kind to be found anywhere. It has a State hos-
pital for the insane which is the largest institution of the kind in the
A Stockton School and Somb of the Scholahs. Pboto. by M>;C
State, and ia set in the midst of beautiful grounds. Its St. Joseph's
Home is a beautiful hospital for the sick or injured. The government
is DOW building a postoSice to cost $200,000, and the city recently
voted 3150,000 in bonds to build a high school.
Among the many beautiful buildings in Stockton none are more
impressive than her churches, nearly every denomination being
represented.
The public schools have the reputation of being among the very
best in the State. Nowhere are they surpassed. The course of study
prepared by the management has been praised in educational centers
in Europe as well aa in America ; the teachers are the best that can
108 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
be obtained, and, most important of all, the f^ood results to the pnpil
a.re so exceptional as to cause comment upon the part of leading'
educators.
The citj has an electric car system which coiinecta all parts of the
residence portion with the business center. It has a water supply
which flows from artesian wells, and the water is clear, pure and
cold. The streets are lighted with electricity, and there is an excel-
lent sewer system. The purity of the water, the excellence of the
drainage system and the cleanliness of the city have given it the low
annual death rate of nine per thousand.
As a means of recreation the people have a theater which is
modern in every respect, two large picnic groves, three public parks
and hot mineral baths. These arc all accessible by the street cars,
and are much used by the people. The public parks, which are
situated in the residence portion of the city, eacb occupy a single
block of land and are highly improved. The hot mineral baths are
one of the natural wonders of the city. The water comes from
artesian wells at 84° Fahrenheit, and is strongly impregnated with
sulphur and iron. It flows into a great outdoor swimming tank 300
feet long and 40 feet wide, built of cement, and into smaller tanks
which are roofed over and enclosed. These baths are, in many
respects, equal to those in the £ast and Enrope which have become
world-re no wned .
As an instance of the progressiveness of Stockton reference should
be made to the Chamber of Commerce, which has an active paying
membership of 600, and is constantly handling big propositions for
the good of the community. Through its mediumship the splendid
resources of Stockton and San Joaquin county are becoming widely
known throughout the East. The Chamber is working on the theory
that San Joaquin county contains land, climate and opportunities far
better than the average, and that once these can be brought to the
attention of the people of the East, the county will be rapidly filled
with desirable settlers.
MBUST-SEPTEMBER, 1901 Vol. xv. Nos. 2-3
A "SLEEPY HOLLOW" > Illustrated ' T^o j
SUMMER RESORTS
REDONDO BEACH ^
Nearest se*S(oe resort to lob Angeles
18 Miles from Los Angeles
on LOS ANGELES
AND REDONDO RY.
or SANTA FE
GOLF, TENNIS, BATHING
BOWLING
Best FISHING on tht Coast
RATES REASONABLE
Redondo Hotel Company, Rcdondo Beach, CaL
i. SPRING ST., LOS
r
'ROUND
ABOUT
L0N6 BEACH
nnt Ocean Excursions to
inal Island, San Pedro
>r, CaUllna. The Ugtat
House, Wblte'4
Point, The Cliffs and
Abtrione Rocks.
makes profitable diver-
The Salt Lake Route....
IS THE DIRECT LINE lo this favorite Rewirt, and (be only line slvlns paaBenrers stoi
over prlTile»eB on Tiekela lo Caullna Island. Long Beach taas the flnsBt ocean beach fi
America, wJih Sea BaitaiBE. FlsliinE and YacbtloE unencelled. Orchestra Concerts Da[l)
E. W. GIU.HTT, Gen'lFass. Agent. T. C. Peck, Ass'i Gen' I Pass. Agent.
RECEIVED.
OCT 4 1901
FEABODY MUSEUM
VOL. 16, N08. 2-3 LOS ANGELES AIBDIT-SEPTEHBEII.ISOI
The Trobadour
He sang of olden Spain — the song
Came upward from the street below
And bore in every way a throng
Of Dgolden dreams of long ago ;
And all the dead and gone romance
Of that old land beyond the sea
Came back to capture and entrance
My spirit with its witchery.
He sang of olden Spain — there moved
Before my gaze the warrior men
Of fair Castile, whose prowess proved
The downfall of the Saracen ;
With swords of steel and souls of fire.
Their banners blowing in the wind,
Rode onward many a knight and squire
Across the mirror of my mind.
He sang of olden Spain — the land
With glorious gonfalon unfurled
The shadow of whose mailed hand
Struck terror into half the world ;
Aaltaorat A BonMd af Rimu.
LAND OF SUNSHINb..
The mafific of whose name was known
To strange, wild peoples over seas,
The echo of whose fame was blown
In all men's ears by every breeze.
' He sang of Spain, of Spain the crowned,
Of Spain the faithful, Spain the just —
Long, long before the lands she found
Had trailed her banner in the dust ;
While yet to ancient teachings true
She filled the nations' highest seat.
Long, long before her empire knew
The dust and ashes of defeat.
He sang of olden Spain — I heard
A fountain musically fall,
A wand'ringiwind went by and stirred
A rose-tree trained against a wall ;
A tinkling lute with voices blent
Went o'er and o'er a lover's rime.
The while a convent belfry sent
Across the land the vesper chime.
He sang of olden Spain and ceased.
My dreaming ended there and then,
My spirit from its spell released
Came back to consciousness again.
The present commonplace and plain
Effaced the splendor and romance
Evoked by that Castilian strain
A strolling singer sang by chance.
bridge, Mas*.
113
®P
In Panama.
BY THACY nOmiMSOM.
mmm
:u:iLkii.Li;j-iiiL/.'^/'
HIRTY-FOUR years agro certain for-
eig:n residents of Colon held a meeting:
to protest against the laxity of muni-
cipal administration. They invited the gov-
ernor of the State of Panama to be present.
He was a dignified gentleman of the better
class, and his gravity sat well upon his stout
person and long beard streaked with gray.
The meeting expressed itself rather freely.
It said, among other things, that gambling,
drinking, and homicide often went hand in
hand in that town, and that the "joints" where those
arts were practised were altogether too numerous and too
wide open for the social and religious needs of the place.
Its name had only recently been changed, by order of the
Colombian government, from Aspinwall (after W. H. As-
pinwall, of New York) to Colon in honor of Columbus, and
was still widely written Colon-Aspinwall ; but the change
had not perceptibly increased the population, nor rectified
morals, nor given purity to the malarial atmosphere.
After the expenditure of a considerable amount of wis-
dom, for so small a number of obscure non-citizens of the
Colombian Republic, there was a lull.
Governor Olarte, who had said never a word, arose in his
general's uniform, and looked around with an air of min-
gled pity and hauteur.
*' Gentlemen," he asked, " have you finished ? "
We had.
" Then permit me to say that for all who do not like this
country the door of emigration is always wide open. Good
morning, gentlemen." And he took his leave.
The incident shows how far the noble sentiment of '* Col-
ombia for Colombians" was carried, and how little was
done to encourage immigration, without which a new
country can never prosper. We had left our homes with
the pleasing idea that we were going to a free country,
with a government fashioned after that of the United
States. We found ourselves in a community where free
speech was not altogether tolerated, least of all in aliens,
and where even at the present day, especially in time of
revolution, the censorship of the press amounts to virtual
strangulation.
Both before and after the final break with the proud and
powerful tierra madre beyond the Atlantic, the Isthmus
of Panama had lain in a state of almost complete obscurity
IN PANAMA. lis
and isolation ; but after the discovery of gold in California
it became the gateway to El Dorado — at first a very con-
gested gateway. Even before the completion of the
Panama railroad, in January, 185S, the mighty thrill and
impulse of modern progress had been felt. Signs of im-
provement continued to manifest themselves while the
great rush of travel by the Isthmian transit went on, until
it amounted to nearly seventy thousand passengers in
I868^n which year the earnings of the little forty-six
mile road were four millions of gold dollars. But with the
opening of the Overland route, in 1869, came a great fall-
ing-ofE in travel via Panama, with a consequent decline of
Isthmian prosperity and enterprise. In 1880, when Ferdi-
nand de Lessepa made his meteoric appearance, there was
a perfect frenzy of excited hopes, but the temporary re-
vival was followed by still greater prostration and apathy
on the part of natives and foreigners.
Yet life at Panama since the clays of the Argonauts has
been far from dull for the cosmopolitan colony drawn
thither by charms of tropical climate or teeming natural
wealth. Jean Ingelow says that
" Life goes best with those who take it best,"
IN PANAMA. 11?
and forty years' residence on the Isthmus gives me leave to
say that all classes of the native population are pleasant
to live with, provided one has consideration for others and
an ordinary endowment of politeness and tact. An Ameri-
can consul was on one occasion much oSended because his
hat was removed by a policeman in the street, as a religi-
ous procession was passing, and everyone else stood rever-
ently uncovered ; but he failed, as he deserved, to make an
international question of the affair.
The situation was nearly the same at Bogota, the na-
tional capital, when a minister-resident of the United
States and his colleague of Germany sat during a 7e Deum
in the cathedral, with their hats on. They felt insulted
when ordered to do what no gentleman would have failed
to do. They advertised themselves as boors.
The Isthmian climate has been decried as deadly ; and
80"^ Fahrenheit through the year may seem a trifle warm
to the uninitiated ; but all Californians who crossed the
Isthmus in old times will remember the superb situation of
the present city of Panama, insuring coot sea breezes and
a sanitation that could easily be made perfect. I say pres-
ent city, for Panama Viejo, or the old city, was built a few
mites away, upon a low malarial site, where the inhabi-
tants of the campQ santo soon outnumbered those of the
IN PANAMA. 321
town itself. It was the first city founded by Europeans on
the American continent, and increased in wealth and
power until it was destroyed by Morgan and his buc-
caneers.
As there are no swamps near the present city, there is
no excuse for malaria. The hill Ancon, seven hundred
feet high, an offshoot from the Lesser Andes that form the
Isthmus, extends a rocky foot well out into the bay. Upon
this, with tides ebbing and flowing on three sides, ready to
carry away anj'^ refuse that is or ought to be tossed over
the famous old sea-walls, the city stands. In ancient days,
it is said, the King of Spain inquired if those costly walls
were built of silver. Some of them are forty feet high and
sixty feet in width, and until a few years ago they en-
tirely surrounded the city. On the land side they have
been removed, but on the sea-front they remain as of old,
and the sentry towers at their angles, with port-holes and
picturesque domes, are interesting relics of the Spanish
regime. The esplanade fronting the sea is a great resort
at sunset and on moonlight nights.
The rainfall is sufficient to wash the streets, which are
paved with cobble-stones after the antique fashion, and
graded to give a rapid run-down to the water. After an
orthodox tropical shower the city looks like a small boy
with his face scrubbed clean for school.
There is perhaps nothing on earth more wonder-lovely
than Panama Bay, with its evergreen islands — Taboga,
Taboguilla, Uravia, Flamenco, Perico, Naos, little Cule-
bra, and numerous other islets rising beautifully rounded
from the purple waves, enclosed by high, wide shores
curved in horseshoe shape, and melting away into the
glamour of hazy distances.
The Panama cathedral, built as late as 1760, is both im-
posing and graceful. It bears the Saviour and twelve
apostles in niches on its facade, and it was long supposed
that the figures were in bronze ; but one night, in 1882,
there was a bit of earthquake, when one of them was
shaken down, and was discovered to be of bronzed wood.
When the cathedral towers were built, pearl shells from
the Pearl Islands in Panama Bay were imbedded in the
mortar of their peaked summits in such a manner that the
rays of the rising and setting sun were reflected with
splendor ; but long exposure to the elements has changed
their brilliancy to a dull white, without lustre.
San Felipe, another interesting church, has 1688 carved
on a mural tablet ; and the ruins of Santo Domingo are
still older. In the latter is a remarkable arch, so nearly
flat that tradition says it fell twice when its support was
iN PANAMA. 125
taken awaJ^ The bold architect then vowed to stand be-
neath it the next time, under the protection of the Vir-
gin ; and, sure enough, the arch is still standing to show
how great is the power of faith !
The educated class of Panama compares favorably with
the same class elsewhere. Many have been sent to Europe
and the United States for their education, and have had
advantages of travel as well as of training. The home
schools for the less fortunate are excellent. A quarter of
a century ago Miss Mary McCord, from Pennsylvania, es-
tablished a girls' seminary by the great sea-wall overlook-
ing the '* Isles of Eden " of the bay. Here half the young
Panama matrons of today received thorough instruction,
and they are often heard to speak with reverent esteem
and affection the name of this perfect teacher.
Among the prominent natives of hidalgo blood who have
devoted themselves with zeal to the schools and other pub-
lic utilities, I may mention the late Don Manuel Hurtado ;
also Doctors Justo and Pablo Arosemena; the brothers
Sosa, the younger of whom, Don Pedro J., an engineer of
distinguished ability, was recently lost with his son at sea ;
the Herrera, the Arias, the Fabrega, the Diez, the Posada,
the Diaz, the Obarrio and the Arango families, all well
known names in Hispano-colonial annals. The progeni-
tor of the Arosemenas was Don Mariano, a man of force
and of high intellectual endowments. He was one of the
band of patriots who in 1821 declared Panama independ-
dent of Spain. His death, at an advanced age, a few years
ago, was caused by a singular accident. Accustomed to
rise early, he opened a window, and it is supposed he was
leaning out to enjoy the balmy beauty of the dawn, when
he lost his balance and fell forward into the street, many
feet below. He was discovered in a dying condition.
The phrase '* Land of Manana " so often applied to tropi-
cal America may, perhaps, have a new meaning before the
century is old ; for it seems fairly certain that the belt of
palms will have its voice in the future councils of man-
kind. Meanwhile, one who loves nature and beauty for
their own sake, and is not in the fierce race for wealth, nor
cares to shine in politics or society, may find in the tropics
abundant opportunities for leading the studious life, with
the enlightened ''content surpassing wealth " that Shelley
sang, and the ease for which all men long.
Hollywood, Cal.
127
A Southwestern Sleepy Hollow.
BY ANNA CAROLINE FISLD
EARLY sixty j^ears ago, Richard H. Dana,
sailing along the eastern shores of the
Pacific, came to what in his inexperience
he called '* the only romantic spot on the
California Coast." Not far from a wild,
rocky point, which is still called Dana's
Landing, from the top of a perpendicular
cliff almost five hundred feet in height,
the adventurous college boy, looking in-
land, saw, gleaming white in the sun of
that warm April afternoon, '* the Mission
of San Juan Capistrano, standing in a
small hollow." He makes no other mention of the mission
and seems not to have visited it. Following the rocky,
cliflf-formed coast a mile or two south, one comes to a
smooth wide beach, and, a little further on, a break in the
high cliffs which rise abruptly on each side. Here the
valley is little higher than the beach, and in winter green
as emerald.
The road from this spot to Capistrano winds through
these meadows and over the foothills. It is smooth and
hard, and when we passed over it, early in February, the
soft round swells and curved hollows of the hills were as
green as the cold grass-countries of the North in June.
On our way, we had the good fortune to witness one of
the peculiar customs of the Southwest^ the branding of
horses. The road passed close to a corral in which were
fifty or sixty of these animals. Outside, a swarthy, red-
shirted Mexican was heating the branding-iron in a bit of
brush fire. Near by on horseback sat the Don who was
superintending the branding. Inside the corral were the
horses and colts and several mounted Mexicans with coiled
reatas. The grace, dexterity and rapidity with which they
Since this writer's visit to San Juan Capistrano, some years ago,
the Landmarks Club (an incorporated society for the preservation
of the missions and other historic landmarks of Southern California)
has secured a long- lease on this noble ruin, and expended some $1500
in making the most urgent repairs. New roof structures have been
substituted for the broken old ones and covered with the original red
tiles ; some 400 feet of the cloisters have been re-roofed (with
asphalt, as originally); the remnant of the great stone temple has
been buttressed and protected ; a vast amount of debris .has been
removed, and many other means have been employed for the preser-
vation of this fine monument. Many further repairs will be made
as the money is secured ; but meantime the two most important
buildings have been so protected that they will last another century
in about their present condition. — Ed.
A SOUTHWESTERN SLEEPY HOLLOW.
Thb Old Oli\^ Hill. Pbolo. br Llnsley
pursued and caught one of these beasts and then lassoed
the feet is indescribable. This done, the animal was
thrown down on its side and branded with the owner's
mark.
We braved a ctoud of smoke and dust for the novel sight
— dust and smoke to which both men and beasts seemed
strictly indifferent. There was a certain picturesqueness
in the scene, although it was rather monotonous in color,
the general hue of dust being but sparingly relieved by a
dull red shirt, a bright neckcloth and the glittering eyes
and white teeth of the dark horsemen.
63
-i
i!
51
ii
iS
"S
H
SI
A SOUTHWESTERN SLEEPY HOLLOW. 133
When the branding was finished the horses were allowed
to pass out of the corral. Trotting rapidly across the
green meadows they disappeared between the foothills.
Later in the day, from a window of the little hotel in
Capistrano, I saw the horsemen again. One after another
they straggled into sight on the sunny, deserted street and
disappeared within the billiard saloon opposite. The most
conspicuous one was tall and slender. His face, dusty
garb, haughty carriage and imperious gestures suggested
a curious mixture of beggar on horseback and prince in
disguise. One is sometimes curious to know how persons
live who appear to be eternally in the saddle and have no
visible means of support. I was told that they work for a
month for twenty-five dollars and then rest and enjoy
themselves while it lasts; and twenty-five dollars will go a
long way for frijoles, garlic, chiles and melons.
Before reaching Capistrano, from the top of a high hill,
it looked like a Sleepy Hollow of the Pacific Coast. The
sharp outlines of the snow-white columns, dust-colored
tower, and rust-red tiles of the old mission church were
softened a little by the haze of that delicious summer-like
day. It stands slightly raised above the '* hollow" of
which Dana speaks, and the little Mexican hamlet of tile-
roofed adobes surrounds the dusty plaza at its base. It
seems impossible that a place so foreign and remote and
sleepy can be within the limits of a land so practical and
prosaic as the United States. It is encircled by hills and
mountains which rise, tier beyond tier, around it — tender
spring verdure at first, further away deepening to sapphire,
in the light, with delicately penciled shadows, and soften-
ing to dreamiest azure and silver where the far, snowy
peaks of San Antonio, San Bernardino and Cucamonga
shine in the sun. It is a picture touched with the pathos
and romance of the past, the witchery of mountain dis-
tance, and the charm of a pastoral foreground gilded by
the magical sun of the South. Across the road from the
Mission is a neat little modern school-house, and on the
other side of it runs the track of the Santa Fe railroad.
Far from detracting from the interest of the historical
spot, they add to it by suggestion and contrast ; they are
types of the rushing, practical present, as that is of the
stately, meditative past.
The Mission of San Juan Capistrano was established
November 1, 1776, in the reign of Carlos Third, King of
Spain, in memory of a good and holy Italian. Padre Fray
Junipero Serra, a Franciscan friar. Missionary President
of Upper California, the first great citizen of this great
State, was its founder. Padre Gorgonio, the first friar in
A SOUTHWESTERN SLEEPY HOLLOW. 135
charge, made tlie original plan of the church, which was
in the form of the Roman cross. Half a mile southeast of
the Mission in a green, fertile hollow is what is left of the
old Mission orchards. This also was planted in the form
of the cross. It originally contained a great variety of
temperate and tropical fruits. With the exception of a few
enormous pear trees, nothing remains but the olives. They
are tall, wide-spreading and gnarled, and still bear godd
crops of berries.
The huge stone church was dedicated on the eighth of
September, 1806, nearly thirty years from the time of its
commencement. December 8, 1812, during the celebra-
tion of the Feast of La Purisima, it was partially demol-
ished by an earthquake, and thirty -six persons were buried
beneath the ruins.
Enough of the dome remains to show the beautiful
Roman arches and to give a hint of its original height and
size.* To the left of it is the campanile, a row of four
open arches, where hang the Spanish bells, encircled with
inscriptions and green with verdigris. The pretty, young,
soft-voiced wife of the Mexican guide, who lived some-
where in the rambling old ruins, showed us the interior,
which makes a charming picture.
A tall shrub with drooping yellow flower (the **Buena
Moza") grows in the angle of the high dark wall, and a
bit of wild vine trails across the top of the arches. Be-
yond them is a glimpse of verdant foothills and a sky as
blue and deep as ever arched over the sunny land whence
the old bells were brought. Beyond the campanile, and
approached through a lofty Roman arched cloister, are the
long, narrow, red-tiled buildings enclosing one side of the
great quadrangle. They contained the Mission granaries,
workshops and residences. Around the north, south and
east sides of the quadrangle, or courtyard, runs the cloister,
supported by thirty-eight tall white pillars. Originally
there must have been fifty. They support Roman arches,
and are of tile-brick, covered with stucco. The space from
pillar to pillar is ten feet, which gives one an idea of the
great extent of the place.
The original church, founded by Father Junipero, is
entered from the quadrangle. Several years ago the roof
fell in.t Up to that time the services of the Roman
Catholic Church were still held there. The priest's apart-
ment, near the chapel, with its comfortless tile-brick floor
and plain appointments, and its closet containing the
* It could not be duplicated today under $100,000.— Ed.
t This buildinar has since been re-roofed, with the oriarinal tiles, by the Landmarks
Club.
138 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
sacred vessels of the church, brings to mind the bedroom
of the good Bishop in Les Miserables, We were permitted
to turn over the leaves of the church records. The entries
are in Spanish. Only the older ones interested us. Some
are in a coarse and heavy hand, but much of the writing*
is delicate and beautiful, and faded to a pale brown.
The quadrangle was used for games and other recrea-
tions, among which the great national amusement of the
bull-fight ranked first. Its surface, worn so bare in those
old days, is green now with breast-high weeds ; the
columns were battered, and the place was silent with the
pathetic quiet of desolation.
The buildings were in so many stages of dilapidation
that it was easy to trace out the manner of construction ;
and one cannot fail to mark the wide purpose, patience,
fertility of resource, and perseverance against manifold
difficulties that the work expresses. In places stone was
used, in others burnt brick, in others sun-dried adobe.
Overhead, through the broken roof with the bit of bright
blue sky beyond, were seen the carisos or cane, used in
place of laths. The great gate at the entrance of the
quadrangle swung on clumsy wooden pins fitted into large
wooden sockets.
In their mute eloquence these old walls inevitably remind
us of the profound faith and piety of those Franciscan
padres, and of other sterner qualities handed down to them,
possibly, from that old historic time when to be a Spaniard
was to be energetic, resolute and fearless. Perhaps it is
not mere fancy that something more than common sun-
light seems reflected from the crumbling walls, a gleam of
the ancient glory of Old Spain in its most brilliant days.
Oranire, Cal.
Mr. Browne — who is the eldest son
of Francis Fisher Browne, that rare American who has
made The Dial a name to
conjure with — was born
in Chicago, July 2, 1868.
was instructed in the
Chicago schools, and edu-
cated in The Dial. He
began at 12 to assist his
father in literary work,
and later worked on the
paper. In 1888 he took
the "business end" of
The Dial, and in 1892,
when the paper was in-
corporated independent of
McCIurg & Co., and was
made a semi-monthly, he
t>ecame full business man-
ager. In this very un-
common school of high Frahcis FishekBhownb.
A B&B&SUCHICi Ubi
THE WATERFALL OF BASASiACHiC.
141
standards in business and literature, Mr. Browne has been
an uncommon pupil, as those know who keep track of what
Mr. Whittier called '*the best purely literary journal in
America." He has mastered, by practical touch, the
literary, mechanical and business sides of publishing, and
has acquired, for a man of 33, a wide acquaintance with
publishers and authors. In assuming full management of
the publishing department of this great house, Mr. Browne
is formulating a broad and progressive policy from which
it is not unreasonable to expect large results. He looks
especially to make A. C. McClurg & Co. an outlet for
Western books and a rallying-point for Western literature.
The Waterfall of Basasiachic.
BY SALOME CMCIL.
EXICO has several waterfalls that are familiar
to tourists, notably those of Juanacatlan and
Orizaba. They are Meccas for travelers, who
marvel at their beauty, and little dream that
in the vast solitude of the Sierra Madre are
falls of greater height that are unknown save
to the Indians and a few adventurous prospectors and
hunters. Many of these falls exist only during the rainy
season, at which time mountain travel is generally tabooed.
The highest waterfall in the world, geography tells us,
is the Cerosola Cascade, in the Alps, having a fall of 2,400
feet ; that of Arvey, in Savoy, is 1,100 feet, and the falls of
Yosemite Valley range from 700 to 1,000 feet. But higher
yet, in my opinion, is the waterfall in the San Cuayatan
Canon, in the State of Durango, Mexico. It was dis-
covered by some prospectors, ten years ago, in the great
barranca district which is called the Tierras Desconocidas.
While searching for the famous lost mine, Naranjal, a
great roar of water was heard. With great difficulty the
party pushed on, and up and down the mighty chasms until
they beheld the superb fall that is at least 3,000 feet high.
It was at the close of the rainy season, in September, and
the San Cuayatan arroyo was a raging torrent, the volume
of water that flowed over the granite bluS was enormous,
the roar deafening. Noticing some traces of a former
trail, merely steps cut in the wall of the canon, the pros-
pectors returned a month later, and with ropes and pulley
one of the party was lowered into the seemingly inacces-
sible depths. He found traces of an old arrastra and a
tunnel several hundred feet below the fall. The works had
been abandoned for perhaps a hundred years, but access to
142 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
the tunnel was still possible, owing to the hard granite
walls that had withstood the elements. A small streak of
almost pure native silver was found on one of the walls of
a vein that was wide and rich in silver. Some of the silver
that was detached with a machete was so soft that it could
be rolled up like a copper plate. In places it was ten
inches wide and thick as a man's hand. Subsequent inves-
tigation proved that the vein could be worked only three
months during the year, the summer and winter rains flood-
ing the tunnel with water. The difficulties were too great
to be overcome, and the old mine was not worked.
Tradition locates the famous lost mine, Naranjal, in the
San Cuayatan Canon. Ancient documents believed to be
of undoubted authenticity state that this mine was worked
by Spaniards in 1712; that it was situated in a remote
canon, surrounded by orange groves, and that the approach
from Durango was from the west, through the barranca
district, of which even the Indians are ignorant today.
During the winter rains vast quantities of ripe oranges
are borne down by the San Cuayatan arroyo, thus lending
credence to the tradition that the lost mine is to the north
of the fall. Owing to the fact that the fall is unapproach-
able except from one direction, no photograph of it has
ever been secured. In viewing the fall, I could only stand
within two feet of where it leaps through the trench cut
in the granite bed and look down upon the waters that
break into spray long before reaching the canon below. A
rope let down one of the walls, sixty feet from the fall, to
which point an Indian crept at the risk of his life, was
3,100 feet long The Indian said he saw it touch the
water, and in proof showed us that the rope to which a
stone was tied was wet ; therefore we could authoritatively
state that the fall is over 3,000 high. To obtain a full
view of the fall and take a photograph would require either
a balloon or a cable across the great chasm, and a Blondin
to reach the center and *' push the button."
On Rio Candemania, in Western Chihuahua, is one of
the most beautiful waterfalls in the world, called by the
natives La Cascada de Basasiachic. The sheer descent of
the water is 1,002 feet from the point where the river flows
through a granite trough on the mesa to the canon below.
It is a weary three hours' ride from the main trail to Pinos
Altos to Basasiachic, over tortuous trails ; but all the dis-
comforts and dangers one has passed are forgotten at the
first glimpse of the glorious fall. The waters tumble pell-
mell down the great barranca, a seething mass of spray
long before they reach the rocky bed, where they unite and
flow westward to join Rio de Cedros, and form Rio Mayo.
JOSEPH LE CONTE. 1«
The Spray is white as driven snow, and when the early
morning^ sun strikes the myriads of g^listening; drops a bril-
liant rainbow arches the chasm, slowly fading away as if
loath to destroy so splendid a picture of color and light.
The view of the fall during the rainy season is far more
beautiful than after the river has been reduced to its normal
proportions, at which time only is it possible to take a
satisfactory photograph. After a heavy rain the volume
of water dashing: down the chasm is enormously increased,
the spray is thrown in every direction and the approach is
extremely dangerous. With great difficulty one may de-
scend the canon and gain a view of the fall a thousand feet
below the point where it reaches the river bed, but a guide
and plenty of ropes are necessary. Our guides were some
Tarahumar Indians, who were going to the mining camps
to sell apples.
The practical-minded miners of this section of Chihuahua
contemplate utilizing the great water-power afforded by
the Cascada de Basasiachic to run their' reduction works,
many miles distant. It is estimated that sufficient electric
power could be made available to light all the towns and
run all the reduction works within a radius of a hundred
miles. When man utilizes the forces of nature for business
purposes he usually destroys all their beauty and romantic
interest. But the glories of Basasiachic can never be da-
stroyed by man, for it is not practicable to divert its waters
for irrigation purposes, there being literally not a flat spot
a yard square in that section ; and to utilize the power for
electrical purposes would not in the least interfere with its
grandeur and suberb beauty.
CItr of H«xlco.
(Joseph Le Conte.
IDl«d JnlT i. 1901, In a tent Id To Semite ValleT.)
<R and Master gone ; the unmeasured height
at w«Ua the grandeur of Yo Bemitc
am fiower-banked Merced to zenith stars,
lifted not
far against the limit line that bars
e aight of man from heaven's mystery,
near the wide empyrean of light,
noble Thought
alted him — the life's immortal part —
Unto the Spirit Infinite ;
Yet held him by a loving human heart
Close to the human world to bless his kind
With savant lore and philosophic wit,
Fmit of a fearless and unfettered mind.
1^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
The lone Sequoia* chanted symphonies
Of ages past ;
The birds sang clear, the breezes waft his name,
The steeps hung- out their broidered tapestries,
And on the last
f^air moming* when the unexpected guest
Took glorious guerdon for his silent quest.
The warming sun gave to the Vale of Peace
A softer glow ;
The summit rills leaped down in glad release
To the green world below,
And sentient nature seemed to feel and know I
He saw and loved it all but yesterdaj.
And now with morning marching on to noon
When men were waiting him the tryst to keep
To guide the cautious step th' infrequent way,
He pledged himself — " I shall be better soon'' —
And fell asleep
So quietly, the watcher, keen with doubt
And pale with dread.
Knew not when One came in and two went out . . .
And he was dead !
High honor had he ; God's own labor laid
The walls of his death chamber, and o'erhead
Set the blue arch with blended light and shade,
Spread the soft carpet for his tired feet
And filled the fragrant air
With healing for the senses, heavenly sweet.
The solemn beauty of Yo Semite
Shall be more fair.
More sacred to the awe-held traveler's tread.
For this f oud memory ;
And by him living, by him grandly dead.
The questing soul his steady light shall see
And so be Godward led !
San Francisco.
Mark Twain and the First Nevada
Legislature.
BY MAHK LKM LUTftKR,
VT is a singular and withal a picturesque thing that the
I story of a silver lode should embody the history of a
commonwealth. Battle-born, as its orators were fond
of styling it, Nevada's rise was meteoric. From a quiet
isolated province of the Mormon theocracy it sprang, with
the discovery of its marvelous silver deposits, as by magic
growth to a life pulsing with intense energy, and passed
rapidly from anarchy to territorial order and from territor-
ialism to statehood, pouring out its wealth for the defense
of the imperilled Union with all the ardor of the eldest in
the sisterhood of States. Such were the stirring begin-
nings of the Nevada which now, by the irony of time, has
come to be characterized as one of the rotten boroughs of
American politics.
MARK TWAIN AND NEVADA'S LEGISLATURE, 1^5
It was the fortune of my father, Ira M. Luther, to play
some part in the founding of this in many ways unique
community. A 'Forty-Niner and one of the emigrating
Californians who wrested from Utah the valleys of Carson
County, as Nevada was then called, he was chosen to repre-
sent the oldest of its settlements in the upper body of its
first legislature, and as the chairman of the standing com-
mittee, in some degree influenced the legislation which
made vital the dry bones of the governmental "Organic
Act." To this first legislature it has haply been given to
figure in literature, and that not enviably ; for, as the
stalking-horse of the humor of the distinguished author of
Roughing It^ its name has become a thing to broaden the
mouth of his readers in derisive smiles. That Mr.
Clemens's whimsical portrait is unjust, a careful examina-
tion of miscellaneous data relating to early Nevada pre-
served by my father, has convinced me.
Of the bizarre pre-territorial epoch, the earliest printed
newspaper of Nevada probably mirrors a faithful present-
ment ; and as I write, a mildewed, tattered copy of the
Territorial Enterprise lies before me. At this tentative
stage of its existence the Enterprise was but a twenty-
column weekly, yet its schedule of terms ranged from five
dollars a year to twenty-five cents a single copy, either
** invariably in advance." What the subscriber obtained
for this sum, which would suffice for a high-grade modern
magazine, was briefly this : Page one, by way of recent
intelligence, prints a generous extract from the *' Ulster
County Gazette" of December, 1799, entitled ''Washington
Entombed," which is preceded by an ode upon that lament-
able occurrence taken from the same fresh and timely
source. Two and a half columns devoted to a borrowed
and unaccredited account of running the gauntlet in
Bohemia, and a handful of '' exchange" anecdotes and
jests pad the remaining space. Page two sets forth the
editorial opinions, the correspondence, and the so-called
** telegraphic news;" while the balance of the paper is
given over to advertisements. The editorials are of purely
local interest, and the heavily-leaded ''telegraphic"
column contains absolutely no Eastern news, save the
merest scrap by way of California relating to the Franco-
Austrian war ; the bulk concerns the mining operations of
East Fork Diggings, Honey Lake Valley, Susan River,
Gold Canon, and the like. The social and personal notices,
however, offer better value for the purchase price. One
example, taking its inspiration from a gift to the editor,
adequately sounds the prevailing note.
146 LAND OF SUNSHtNE.
** SPIKITUAI>-An old friend of ours, H. Jacobs, of the firm of
Solomon Weill & Co., Mottsyille, has presented us with a compli-
mentary flask of old Sazerac. Jaike, you're a trump."
It is in the advertisements perhaps, that pre-territorial
Nevada is best reflected. Liquors, playing^-cards, powder,
shot and i^ns are conspicuous anions: them, and the jewel-
ers one and all would seem to have been gfunsmiths too.
The infinite variety of a storekeeper's stock in trade is
amusingly shown in the doggerel advertisement of the firm
of the donor of **old Sazerac." The advertiser
ti
Returns his thanks for favors shown by those who come to trade,
He's got, he thinks, the cheapest store where the best of bargains
made;
There's hats and' caps, and pantaloons and shirts, with boots and
shoes,
And laces, silks and calicoes— come ladies all and choose.
His tea and co£Pee, sugar, rice, his pepper, salt and plates.
His shot and powder, caps and lead, he sells at lowest rates ;
His brandy, whiskey, gin and wine, are very hard to beat,
He'll sell it by the gallon cheap, or by the single treat.
In short, he always keeps the best of everything to sell.
And calls upon all citizens, who in the valley dwell.
To come and look upon his goods ; he'll sell them very low;
Come one, come all, and see the goods of Solomon Weill & Co."
But " the valley" thought not solely of the body ; and
that its mental hunger might not go unappeased a book-
seller, in exploiting a well known sensational periodical of
the East, counsels that "everybody should read" the
*' beautiful" stories entitled "Bion the Wanderer, or. The
Faithless Guardian," "The Pioneer Patriot, or. The Maid
of the War Path," "The Bride of an Evening," " Blanche
Bertrand, or, the Perils of the Border," "Glendower, or
The North Sea Rover," "The Lost Treasure, or The
Champion of Castile," and "Alaric, or The Tyrant's
Vault. '
Such was the Enterprise ; and presumably of some such
fashion was Nevada when that newspaper's future city
editor and Nevada's satirist, Samuel Langhorne Clemens,
made his advent in the wake of the territorial government.
With what he saw there every reader of Roughing It is
familiar, and "the world and his wife" still shake their
sides over the telling of it — and with reason. That this
book is something more than a humorous narrative, how-
ever, its author specifically claims, and it is with the work
in its character of pseudo-history that the present writer
would make bold to differ, touching certain of its state-
ments. With the ousting of the Mormons, the pre-Twain
and pre-territorial Nevada had been left without courts of
law ; lynching was not of infrequent occurrence and a rude
makeshift for justice was administered by the miners' code
which meted out punishments varying from hanging for
MARK TWAIN AND NEVADA'S LEGISLATURE. 1^7
murder to ear-cropping* for cattle-stealin^:. In a word,
society was chaotic, and the problem confronting President
Lincoln's newly appointed g-overnor, James W. Nye, and
the leg'islators-elect of a country which was devoid of legis-
lation, was serious to a degree. As Mr. Clemens saw it,
history ran in this guise :
'* There is something' solemnly funny,'* he says in Roughing li^
" about the strugfg'les of a new-bom Territorial government to get a
start in this world. Ours had a trying- time of it. The Organic Act
and the ' instructions' from the State Department commanded that
a legislature be elected at such-and-such a date. It was easy to get
legislators, even at three dollars a day, although board was four
dollars and fifty cents, for distinction had its charm in Nevada as
well as elsewhere, and there were plenty of patriotic souls out of em-
ployment ; but to get a legislative hsdl for them to meet in was
another matter altog^ether. Carson blandly declined to give room
rent-free or let one to the government on credit. But when Curry
heard of the difficulty, he came forward, solitary and alone, and
shouldered the Ship of State over the bar and got her afloat again.
I refer to * Curry— OLD Curry— Old ABE Curry.' But for him the
legislature would have been obliged to sit in the desert. He offered
his large stone building just outside the capitol limits, rent-free, and
it was gladly accepted. Then he built a horse-railroad from town to
the capitol and carried the legislators gratis. He also furnished pine
benches and chairs for the legisla ture, and covered the floor with
clean sawdust by way of carpet and spittoon combined. A canvas
partition to separate the Senate from the House of Representatives
was put up by the Secretary. . . . That was a fine coUection of
sovereigns, that first Nevada legislature. They levied taxes to the
amount of thirty or forty thousand dollars and ordered expenditures
to the extent of about a million. Yet they had their little periodical
explosions of economy like all other bodies of the kind. A member
proposed to save three dollars a day to the nation by dispensing with
the chaplain. And yet that short-sighted man needed the chaplain
more than any other member, perhaps, for he generally sat with his
feet on his desk, eating raw turnips, during the morning prayer."
Did not Mr. Clemens have his moments of seriousness,
and had I not been assured by him that this amusing de-
scription of the first Nevada legislature is *' absolutely cor-
rect," it would obviously approach the fatuous to take up
the cudgels of adverse criticism, point out errors of fact,
and endeavor to justify men who need no justification save
their works. One cannot but conclude that the lapse of
years has dulled Mr. Clemens's recollection of the Nevada
of this then undistin^fuished youth. Other actors in the
scenes he has depicted have other memories, not tinged
with the glow of humor, perhaps, but possibly quite as
faithful to what Nevada really was. United States Sena-
tor Wm. M. Stewart, for example, while readily granting
that the author of Roughing It did not lack * a basis of
facts upon which to build his exaggerated stories," charac-
terizes the account as a ** burlesque" which "must be
taken with a great deal of allowance." Himself a mem-
1^ LAND OF SUNSHINE,
hex of the first le^rislature, Senator Stewart became the
dominant influence of Nevada politics, the chief shaper of
the young Commonwealth's destinies, and its first chosen
Federal Senator. His statement, therefore, is not without
weight. I cite his own matter-of-fact description to me :
" The legislature met in Curry's hall where the State prison now
is. The Council was situated in one end of the long building- and the
Assembly in the other. A large staircase went up the center,
which divided the hall into two parts. The building was decidedly
substantial in every respect."
In this connection it is pertinent to note that the House
Journals show that the members' chairs were furnished
them by two public-spirited women of Carson City ; a
trifling detail, but not without interest in an analysis of
the ** absolutely correct."
The passage of ''Roughing It," just quoted, is followed
by a paragraph containing a most palpable blunder.
*' The legislature sat sixty days and passed private toll-road fran-
chises all the time. When they adjourned it was estimated that
every citizen owned about three franchises, and it was believed that
unless Congress gave the Territory another degree of longitude
there would not be room enough to accommodate the toll-roads. The
ends of them were hanging over the boundary line everywhere like a
fringe. The fact is, the freighting business had grown to such im-
portant proportions there was nearly as much excitement over sud-
denly acquired toll-road fortunes as over the wonderful silver
mines."
No one will be disposed to cavil at the humor of this
piece of writing ; it bears the mint-stamp of the coinage
which we all hope will for many years be unlimited and
free. But it is not history. The most cursory perusal of
the Laws of the Territory of Nevada for the session in
question will disclose that the entire number of toll-roads
which this reckless body of lawmakers permitted so to be-
fringe the boundary was precisely six.' The succeeding
session did more to merit the gibe. Upwards of a score of
these franchises were then granted, and scrutiny of the
authorized rates of one of them makes it transparently
clear why a toll-road was a bit of property which no enter-
prising citizen should be without. The possessor of one
bonanza, a fairly typical case, had the legal right to
charge and collect tollage at these princely rates :
'* Wagon and one span of horses, two dollars and fifty
cents.
''Wagon and one yoke of cattle, two dollars and fifty
cents.
''Each additional animal, fifty cents.
" Buggy and two horses, two dollars and fifty cents.
" Man on horseback, fifty cents.
MARK TWAIN AND NEVADA'S LEGISLATURE. 149
'*Each pack animal, twenty-five cents.
**Each loose animal, fifteen cents.**
All said, the toll-road nuisance is perforce a necessary
one in the development of wild and unsettled lands ; and
Nevada's course, as a well known historian has remarked,
was simply of a piece with that pursued by other Terri-
tories.
Yet it is not so much by reason of historical inaccuracy
in matters of fact that the author of Roughing It — so nobly
scrupulous of personal honor himself — does injustice to the
members of Nevada's first legislature ; the offence lies
rather in the implication of selfish incompetence. A rapid
survey of something- of the work accomplished by these
men is sufficient answer. Among the hundred and more
enactments during those sixty days which Mr. Clemens
would have us believe were given over to the passing of
'* private toll-roads franchises all the time," are to be found
laws regulating bills of exchange and promissory notes,
crimes and punishments, and the important question of
marriage and divorce ; laws adopting the Common Law,
specifying the qualifications of attorneys and councillors,
defining the time of commencing civil actions, establish-
ing a seminary of learning in Carson City, and inaugura-
ting a common-school system for the Territory ; laws se-
curing mechanics' liens, fixing the age of majority, pro-
hibiting gambling, and providing for the better observance
of the Lord's day ; laws concerning the taking of the cen-
sus, the preservation of the purity of the ballot, and the
care of the public records ; laws authorizing the survey of
the California boundary line, locating the permanent seat
of government, mapping out the judicial districts, and de-
termining the terms of court ; and, not least, laws grant-
ing the Central Pacific Railroad the right to construct its
line from border to border, and appropriating revenue for
"the support of the government of the United States."
To the testimony of this legislation may be added the
words of Governor Nye, who, as an Eastern man and a
stranger, hesitated in his address to the first legislature to
take the initiative in regard to needful legislation, but ex-
pressed his gratification that its responsibilities rested
upon *' a body of men so competent to their charge." That
his judgment of men was not at fault the work of the first
Nevada legislature bears witness, and in characterizing
that work as "discreet and moral," the historian of the
Pacific States fittingly adds that *' it would have been well
could they have kept society up to their standard."
New York, N.Y.
The Dream-Child of the Mesa.
A PUEBLO STORY.
««\f
o interested in ruins, seSor, in the graves of
the old men," laughed Marcelino, one of the chief
citizens of the white adobe citj that g-leama beside
Western river ; Marcelino the lifeful, the cheerful,
lest of all comrade* for an hour t>eBide the winter fire
ir a burning sntnmer's journej across the desert ; Mar-
io of the proud head, the snapping ejes, the keen
tongue, whose big frame was thin from the verj*
vivaciousness of the man. Ue sat on hia blanket
beaide the crackling cedar fire of the /og'on on a fall
night, with his white visitor beside him and hla
toddling daug-hter asleep in his am*.
He poked a brand back into the fii« with his
moccasined foot, and the shadows leaped up anew
among the hewn ceiling-beans of the little adobe.
" But the ruins upon the mesa yonder are interest-
ing," he went on. " There stood this town countless' years ago, tbej
say. Why was it abandoned?" — a smile crept over the strong- face —
"you will never be happy till you know, I suppose. Rattlesnakes,
seSor — so say the old men. It is only the old men who know the
stories of things any more—the youths are taken away to your white
acbools and miss all the winter stor^- telling. Thus they know
nothing. Ay! you meddlers," he finished meaningly; but he was
good natured, for he knew it was a friend to whom he spoke. Then
he continued, after accepting some cigarette tobacco, " They climbed
the black mesa in fearful numbers, the venomous snakes, so that
great distress fell upon the village, and the chief men connciled to-
gether in the esiu/a — there where you saw the round ruin inside of
the comer where the two lines of houses join thus" (he traced an
" L, " upon the dirt floor) to plan to fight the new enemy. But it was
no use, sefior — up came the snakes thicker and thicker over the
ragged black top of the village rock, and as the good women of the
pueblo ground bine com on the metates in the little houses way up
there, behind the se wed-together rabbit skins which were doors in
those far days, seBor, the serpents would slip within and bite them
upon the bare arms even as they worked, for you know how the
woman's hair falls forward over her face as she grinds, so that she
cannot see. You understand, then the rattlesnakes were not as now,
hurting only when hurt ; they were as an enemy upon the trail.
"80 to the sound of much weeping the people of the mesa pueblo
gathered against the setting sun and went down from the great rock
forever, moving first across the river, and then to this town of our
own— at least it is thus according to the old men. There, you have
it now, seiior — but you are a good man for a white one, and my friend.
That is the truth of it as I have heard it — but there is more, my
friend. I had a dream." Marcelino leaned forward to choose a coal
from the fire, and lighted the com -husk cigarette he had deftly rolled
as he held the child in his arms. A dream from Marcelino 7 Who
would have suspected him of dreaming I The lively, practical Mar-
celino, who, one would think, slept too sound each night after the
day's hard work in the fields or on the hunt ever to find room for
dreams t
There was silence for a time, while he gaxed at his daughter's
little queue of light auburn hair bound with a red woven band. The
child's light hair was a constant wonder to the stranger, though such
THE DREAM-CHILD OF THE MESA. 151
hair is sometimes seen in the white cities. The father took his time
about continuing'.
" A dream of two times, of Now and Then," he began after he had
smoked the whole cigarette in silence. '*I had been hunting up the
river one day in the late summer, and making for the pueblo toward
evening, I climbed thie black mesa the better to view the edge of the
sky to see if there might be early rains upon the way. And sitting
on the ruins of the little houses, looking far out over the broad corn-
fields of my people, and the little orchards, and beyond them the
white town and the sacred cross of the church, and the river, and be-
yond all the big mountains, I passed into sleep. You know the look
from up there, senor — it makes the eyes shut, the better to see it all.
Perhaps I also was tired from the hunt.
'* And sleeping, I dreamed the forgotten town was alive, and I was
a stranger in it ; and women ground on their metates in the little
houses while the young men sang, and maidens went to and fro bear-
ing jars of water up from the river, and men sewed zapatos with
bone awls and sat chipping arrow points from stone. And they were
all such strange looking people, my friend, the men more serious of
face than now — for they were the ancients. And the sound of water
was in my ears, for it seemed the river, now so shrunken and with-
drawn, swirled about the mesa on both sides. Ah, what fortunate
days ! If the good river would but grow so fat again, the corn plants ,
would never more need to hang their heads for shame at the withered
grains they have to offer. But our river is old, and like old men, it
grows thin and weak with age.
*' But as I stared about, as strangers will when they came into a
new pueblo, wailing filled the town and the old men came up out of
the esiufa bearing the precious signs and relics, and gathering to-
gether all the people, they went down over the edge and passed out
upon the river in little barks, some bearing the swollen bodies of the
dead and dying who had been bitten by the snakes.
" I watched them, straining my eyes, to see where they went, that
I might know whether they were my people as our old men say ; but
in the glare that lay upon the water from the low-hung sun, they
drifted beyond the power of my vision.
** Then suddenly I heard a cry out on the edge of the cliff, and
against the big fire in the west, with arms held out, and hair colored
as red gold from the color of the sun, I beheld a little girl, who called
faintly, * tata, tata ! ' [Father ! Father !] She had been left behind,
my friend, and fearing she would fall from the cliff, I thought I
started toward her ; but the only move I made was to open my eyes.
In front of me sat a little rabbit, his pink nose moving as he con-
sidered my face, and his ears very long in the twilight. It is the
tiny soft rabbits that the little children love so much, senor — ^they
were made especially for babies. No other living thing was upon
the mesa with me ; and puzzling, I descended toward home. When I
arrived at my door along in the night, I found this little girl in my
house, and she was but newly come."
Marcelino brushed his big brown hand over the sleeping child's
head.
" And her hair, senor, is of red gold, and I always rescue her thus
into my arms at twilight, and in her sleep she often puts out her
arms and calls — ah ! listen ! "
The child moved in her sleep, and putting her bare arms up around
Marcelino's neck, called softly, '' tata, tata ! "
Marcelino pulled his red blanket up so as to shield her from the
draught of the door. The firelight had not the strength to reach up
to the ceiling now, but played upon the upturned face of the child,
and upon the strong profile of the father's face as he looked down.
153 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
" You see she is a precious child, mj' friend, come from a long' time
ag:o. Ah t what thin^fs ahe might tell^no, seSar 7 — thia Mesa Child !
She ii so serious, like the ancients." The father's arms tightened
about hia wee daughter, and he rocked her gently to and fro, asking
softly, "Where are the Mesa Folk, little one 7 Are you lonely 7"
"Bnt jours is a different religion, my friend," said Marcelino,
coming up smiling from bis reverie. " You are not lost in the desert
as we are, and so a dream-ohild will never be bom to you. But you
do not think she will fall over the cliff to her people, some twilight 7
I^ Aiurale*.
Geographical Peculiarities of Cali-
fornia.
a geogxapTiical point of view Califoraia
presents more numerous and more marked
peculiarities than any other State of the
Union. Before the acquisition of Alaska
it was in the latitudinal center of the
United States, being about as far north
of the parallel of Key West as south
of the parallel of the Lake of the Woods ;
and since the acquisition of Alaska it has been and is now
n the loneitudinal center, being about as far east of the
meridian of Behring's Island as west of the meridian of
New Brunswick, It follows, therefore, that thoug-h until
recently on the extreme western verge of the United States
and hitherto generally regarded and spoken of as the
Occident and remote Far-West, it is in fact central.
It is not only central longitudinally, but it is central in
another and more important respect. There is as much
ocean frontage belonging to the United States west of Cali-
fornia as there is east of California — that is to say, the
Oregon, Washington and Alaskan sea-board is as extensive
as that from Maine around Florida to Texas. The Atlan-
tic coast as yet excels in population, productiveness and
commerce, but the Pacific coast excels in youth, capabili-
ties and prospects for the future.
Leaving out of consideration the Atlantic and looking
only at the Pacific coast of North America, we find that
California is in the latitudinal center between Panama on
the south and Point Barrow on the north, or between the
heat of Darien and the cold of Behring's Straits, There
is also about the same length of ocean frontage from Cres-
cent City to Icy Cape as from San Diego to Point Malo.
The exact manner in which the land of North America was
formed may be doubtful ; but it would almost seem, upon
■Ttaa historian of Callfomis.
GEOGRAPHICAL PECULIARITIES OF CALIFORNIA. 153
looking at the map, as if in the elevation of the con-
tinent the western coast had been bulgfed out into the
Pacific, and that California, as if to make it the commer-
cial center of traffic with Asia, had been pushed furthest
forward in the great continental curve. If it be true, as
we are taught, that * 'Westward the course of empire takes
its way," there is reason to believe that the commerce of
the Pacific will one day equal if not exceed that of the
Atlantic, and when that day comes the unequalled mari-
time position and value of California will be recognized
and appreciated.
In reference also to the prevailing winds and currents
between North America and Asia, California occupies a
central position. The almost constant breezes come down
across the northern seas upon our northwest coast, while
the regular northeast trades, that serve to temper the heats
of equatorial Polynesia, skirt our southern borders. Again,
the current of the Kuro Siwo or Gulf Stream of the North
Pacific, as it sweeps down from the Aleutian Islands, fol-
lows the same general course as the winds, striking the
coast of California from the northwest and then veering
ofi^ to the southwest and helping to form the great equa-
torial current that flows under the Tropic of Cancer ever
towards the west. Under a skilful pilot the ship that sails
from California to China goes out in a southwesterly direc-
tion and takes advantage of the southern winds and cur-
rents that waft it towards the setting sun, while the same
ship in returning from China makes for the north and
comes in like a racer on the northern winds and currents
that drive it along from the northwest. The early Spanish
navigators, who may be said to have laid out the first road*
ways across the Pacific, soon learned the main facts in re-
gard to these prevailing winds and currents and the man-
ner of their impingement upon the North American conti-
nent, and it was in their knowledge of these facts that we
find the reason why the famous old Spanish galleons in
their trade with the Orient, on their outward voyages ran
almost directly west from Acapulco to the Philip-
pine Islands, but, in returning with their treasures of silks
and spices and sweet-smelling gums, always sought a
northern latitude and came down with full sails within
sight of the coast of California.
Connected also with these winds and currents, which
have much the same tempering and equalizing effects upon
the west coast of North America that the westerly winds
and the Gulf Stream have upon the west coast of Europe,
are the extraordinary curves of the isothermal lines which
distinguish California from all the other States, make it
154 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
possible to grow oranges at Chico as well as at Los Ange-^
les, and cause us to reckon our degrees of temperature
rather by longitude than by latitude. In the same connec*
tion must likewise be counted our remarkable rain storms
and the position we occupy between the too-large precipi-
tation of Oregon and the too-small precipitation of Ari-
zona. To an ordinary observer it is exceedingly interest-
ing, and to a meteorologist it would seem that nothing
could be more fascinating, than the study of the manner in
which the great atmospheric swirls, hundreds of miles in
extent, sweep in from the North Pacific, and, according as
they pass eastward over British Columbia or veer to the
southward, give us dry weather or furnish us with copious
and invigorating rains.
When we come to consider the topography of the differ-
ent parts of California as related to one another, we find
still more remarkable features. In general shape the State
may be roughly compared to one felloe of a wagon-wheel,
with its convex or outward rim towards the ocean. Most
of its inward rim, with the exception of the lava-beds in
the northeast and the sand deserts in the southeast, is
formed by the high, snow-crowned crests of the Sierra
Nevada. West of these and between them and the Coast
Range of mountains are the extensive interior valleys of
the Sacramento and the San Joaquin, with their two great
rivers, one from the north and the other from the south,
and each supplied and reinforced by numerous snow-fed
tributaries that come tumbling down from the Sierra all
the way from Shasta to the Tejon. All the west slope of
the Sierra, five hundred miles in length, through which
these reinforcing streams flow, contains more or less au-
riferous earth ; and every one of the streams, whether it
swells the floods of the Sacramento or the San Joaquin,
rolls down a rich tribute of golden grains.
In the middle of the outer rim of the felloe above refer-
red to, or in the center of the great continental curve that
protrudes most into the ocean, and almost exactly equi-
distant from Crescent City on the north and San Diego on
the south, and from the Modoc lava-beds on the northeast
and the Colorado deserts on the southeast, is the Bay of
San Francisco. This is the center and mouth, so to speak,
of perhaps the most symmetrical and interesting natural
drainage system on the face of the globe. The entire
western slope of the Sierra Nevada, which is much the
widest and deepest slope and the only one upon which any
amount of rain or snow is precipitated, drains down to the
confluence of the two great rivers on the east of Monte
Diablo and thence through Suisun, San Pablo and San
GEOGRAPHICAL PECULIARITIES OF CALIFORNIA. 155
Francisco Bays and by way of the Golden Gate into the
ocean. Every one who examines a relief-map of California
cannot help noticing with more than ordinary interest its
magfnificent interior valleys, each several hundred miles
long, looking as if they had been scooped out and leveled
off between the Sierra on the one side and the Coast Range
on the other, and the course of the combined river drain-
age around the northern base of Monte Diablo, through
the Straits of Carquinez and around the southern base of
Tamalpais into the Pacific.
In addition to the main drainage from the Sierran
streams, which pours into the head of Suisun Bay, are the
subordinate currents from the slopes of the Coast Range
and its spurs, which thread the valleys of Suisun, Napa
and Sonoma on the north and those of Livermore, Santa
Clara and San Mateo on the south. All these drain di-
rectly into the Bay, and increase the volume of waters that
find their exit through the Golden Gate ; and curiously
enough the extent of territory drained and the amount of
drainage are about the same north of the Bay as they are
south of the Bay. just as the extent of the Sacramento
Valley and the water drained from it are about the same as
those of the San Joaquin Valley. And what is still more
remarkable is that on each side of the Bay, and substan-
tially equidistant from it, are secondary channels of drain-
age, nearly equal in extent of territory drained and amount
of drainage, the one to the north being that of Russian
river, which flows down from the northwest towards the
the Bay, but before reaching it suddenly turns west and
empties into the ocean in Sonoma county, and the other to
the south being that of the Salinas river, which flows up
from the southeast towards the Bay, but before reaching it
suddenly turns west and empties into the ocean in Monterey
county.
Still further north than Russian river are the Gualala,
Eel and Klamath rivers, while south of the Salinas are the
Santa Rosa, Santa Clara and San Gabriel, and, as if to
make up for the preponderance in size of the Eel and
Klamath on the north, we border on the Colorado on the
south. So of our mountains, there seems to be a balancing
between the north and the south. In other words, the
rough ridgy country in the northwest corner of the State
is paralleled by the rough ridgy country in the southwest
corner. Mount Shasta north has its counterpart in Mount
San Bernardino south. Cape Mendocino north finds its
apposite in Point Concepcion south. Humboldt and Bodega
Bays north have their correspondents in San Diego and
Monterey Bays south. And so with respect to nearly every
156 LAND OF SUNSHINL.
ffreat physical feature of our State, there is an astonishing
symmetry between the two parts. There was the same
kind of symmetry in the early mining days between what
were known as the northern mines, which were supplied
from Sacramento, and the southern mines, which were sup-
plied from Stockton. There is the same kind of symmetry
today between the cinnabar mines north and the cinnabar
mines south ; between the Trinity mines north and the San
Bernardino mines south ; between the mines of any metal
worked north of the Bay and of the same metal worked
south of the Bay. There is the same kind of symmetry
also between the fields and orchards and gardens of the
north and the fields and orchards and gardens of the south,
differing not in extent or beauty or value, but only in
variety of products. There is the same kind of symmetry
between the people of the two regions, their intelligence,
their activity and their worth, each being the complement
of the other, and evidently calculated to remain united, to
hold together, to supplement and support each other, and
to constitute, at least while the physical features of the
<:ountry remain as they are, one undivided and indivisible
State.
San Francisco, Cal.
Midsummer Song.
BY HILTON J*. onsmR.
When wan Midsummer holds the land
Close-clasped within her mag-ic hand,
A meUow haze enwraps the ways
Where, placid-browed, the mountains stand.
The bounding t>rooks that laughed with Spring,
By pebbly banks no longer sing;
No more rejoice, but sink their voice
To dull and drowsy murmuring.
From hedge to hedge the eye can trace
The silken filaments of lace
By spiders spun ere yet the sun
Had glimmered o'er the morning ways.
Oppressive silences enfold
The songless wood and sleeping wold
When Noonday spills upon the hills
Her lavish largesses of gold.
And yet, though hushed the song of streams,
Most gracious is my lot, meseems,
For joyous still by copse or hill
I wander, comraded with dreams.
Plttsbarir, Texas.
As another rainj seaBon approaches, with its menace to the unpro-
tected adobe walls of the old Missions, the Club again urges all mem-
bers to paj their dues, and all who have not been members to become
so. It is of the utmost importance to do further protective work at
Capistrano, San Femaudo and San Diego, and to begin the conserva-
tion of Pala before this winter's rains set in. The Club has al-
ready expended some t3,5O0 in expert repairs at the three first
named Missions ; but this is oalj a beginning. The article on an-
other page gives some idea of what has been done at Capistrano.
All work is done bj experts and is historically correct ; and all
moneys received go net to the cause. Membership is $1 per jear;
life membership is S25 ; and several larger donations have been re-
ceived. The Missions are the noblest architectural remains in the
United States ; and it would be a lasting disgrace to permit them to
disappear.
CONTBIBnTIOKS TO THB WORK.
Previously acknowledged, $3,839.96. Louisa C. Bacon, Matta-
poisett, Mass.,S20(makingS50inall from her.) SI each: Mrs. J. L.
Hall, Dr. J. A. Mnnk, Miss M. M. Fette, Los Angeles.
Were not the Westerner incorrigibly modest, it would
never do for him to revisit the pale frlimpses of the East.
Conformed, now, to horizons he does not dent with his
elbows every time he turns around ; shriven of provincial-
ism by travel and comparison ; fond of the people who still
stay where they happened, while he lives where he likes ;
living next door to Nature and just across the street from
the only Better Country that the heart of man hath con-
ceived— by all this he is peculiarly surefooted and of well-
seasoned head, warranted not to swell. He can view with
erood-natured pity, and no notion of arrogrance, the stuffed-
doll " life" of his unremoved contemporaries. It does not
make him vain that " we do these thincrs rather better" —
for he expects travel, elbow-room, climate and other evolu-
tionary forces of the first magnitude to have some effect.
He remembers what they have done for him, and that he
did not invent them.
. Otherwise he would be insufferable after a return to the
old conditions in which he was once contented. He would
be insolently puffed up over the mere fact that 90 per cent,
of his countrymen dwell in a climate he would not give his
neighbor's yellow dog — forgetful that while he now knows
better than to live in such weather, it is largely by accident
that he learned sneemess"
the sweltering dhouses of
Chicago and N ir slowness
in "modern ii n odiously
with the bette: , of which
the Easterner 1 d swell his
chest over his i hygiene,
in domestic eco makes for
health and comfort and life. But having learned some-
IN THE LION'S DEN, 159
thing, he merely takes the East as a joke, loves the people
who are lovable, doesn't see the others at all, does not pre-
tend that he gave Grod the idea of making: a Real Country,
and says no more of his luck than seems needful for the
spiritual and temporal well-being of such as deserve a
better fate than the Bast.
For two months, now, the Lion has been meandering,
through the Hotbeds of Civilization with a disinheriting
eye, perpetual pores, and less profanity (he trusts) than
anyone ever before shed on the like provocation. And, be-
ing still in melted mood, he does not feel competent to tell
just how the Old Thing looks. But there are a few mild
reflections which may serve until he shall come where the
thermometer needs no fire-escape.
All across Kansas, Missouri, Illinois and Indiana tawtai,xjs
BY
he saw the fields parched and shriveled — beside cHoiat.
vast, muddy rivers, whose volume would have insured a
crop to every acre in the Middle West. Half a corn crop,
potatoes burned up, stock lean for want ot pasture. And
do you fancy he saw a hand lifted to put two and two
together — the starveling crop and the life-giving water ?
Not so much as a bucket drawn from the river to give to
drink to the thirsty fields. Not so much as a Mexican ox-
wheel or an Egyptian sweep — not to say a Mormon irrigat-
ing ditch. And this in a country which understands it-
self to be smart ! One would fancy that even if these four
or five million Americans had never read anything, had
never heard that naked fellahs along the Nile 3000 years
ago, and tribal Aztecs and New Mexican ''savages" a
thousand, knew enough to keep their crops from choking
to death, the American smartness would have enabled
them to invent a plan so simple. But no I The only
remedy they had invented was to pray in the churches all
over the Middle West that God would please send them
some rain. In one case, noted by the newspapers at the
time, God sent rain — and it washed away the church.
Yes, there was one other ingenuity. On one train the
Lion met and talked with eleven farmers — no two in com-
pany— going to the city to sell oflf their cattle for what
they would fetch, as there was nothing to feed them
withal.
160 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
i!H« BIGGEST As a matter of fact, the average Eastern fanner
CHAKCB. — though he would look with horror on a mere
faro-player — is the most conspicuous of gamblers. His
life is a dicing with the sky — ^his year's labor on the turn
of the weather. He uses wit and industry, like the gam-
bler, on a "system" to beat the game; but the percent-
age is against him. And it appears never to have oc-
curred to him to deal his own weather. This seems all
right to him ; but to a Californian it seems a stupidity be-
yond words. In the arid Southwest — in Utah and Color-
ado, New Mexico, Arizona and California, the land that a
few years ago was ** the Great American Desert," we have
taken farming from the category of three-card monte and
made it a science. Freed from destructive storms by the
simple device of a long-enough railroad ticket ; freed from
the drudgery of doing a year's work in half a year (as
they must do where the other half isn't fit to work in) ; re-
lieved of loneliness and big workings, since we can get as
much from ten acres as the other man gets from one hun-
dred and sixty ; and unworried about the rainfall, since we
wet our fields and our whistles when they need it — ^why,
we have made farming the " surest thing " man has ever
practiced.
In these two months astray, the Lion has seen
''^^soRDBR. more hot days and nights, has perspired more, has
seen more thunderstorms, mosquitos, wilted collars, mud,
wrecking winds and discomfort in general, than in seven-
teen years of California. He has read the accounts of
more deaths by sunstroke than ever died in California of
any epidemic ; and twice as many people were killed by
the sun in one day in New York City as have perished by
earthquake in the West since history began. Sunstroke,
by the way, is absolutely unknown on the Pacific Slope.
The Lion in this trip has personally seen but two people
killed by the sun — a man in Chicago and a little girl in
New York, who went down on the sidewalk as if struck by
a bullet. Also, seven horses. Thousands of horses in the
big cities wear big straw hats to save them from a like
fate. Fancy telling that to a native Westerner I And one
' pleasant July day he saw the thermometer stand at 118° on
IN THE LION'S DEN. 1^1
Dearborn street, Chicago. The official record was 103^ —
taken at the top of the Auditorium tower, some 250 feet in
the air. This was doubtless authentic ; but the Lion didn't
observe many Chicagoans walking* around on a level with
that observatory — most of them were using the sidewalks.
And New York and Washington were no improvement in
comfort or safety.
The Lion saw no better railroad trains than som«
castjai*
run in California. He saw no electric street comparisons.
cars so good as the best in Los Angeles. He found the
employes of transit systems far less intelligent and far
worse mannered than we would tolerate in the West. He
found Chicago and New York wretchedly inadequate as to
street signs, and numbered in a medieval and ignorant
fashion Los Angeles discarded when it was a country town.
Incredible as it may seem, these stupendous cities, with
over five million people, cling to the old continuous num-
bering— and sometimes with opposite houses a hundred
numbers apart — instead of the system of 100 to the block.
He found no handsomer school-buildings ; not a seventh as
many churches to population in New York as in Los An-
geles ; no finer drygoods and grocery stores ; no better
newspapers (nor so many in proportion) ; less prosperous
looking farms and more dilapidated villages ; dirty streets,
and a clamor like the inferno. As for attractive homes,
California is vastly superior to any part of the East. He
found Chicago still partly using its well as a cesspool, and
New York split up the front with a stenchsome trench for
underground transit, and horse-cars still in evidence. Ex-
cept Washington, which is beautiful and full of trees, the
great Eastern cities are worse to live in than they were
twenty years ago ; noisier, dirtier, darker, more crowded ;
more deserted in summer by the privileged class who can
go somewhere to be comfortable, more crushing to those
who cannot. Yet millions of the smartest Americans
choose to persist in these bedlams ; without room or time
to live, cheerfully drinking and breathing the ineffable ex-
halations of several million other reeking citizens, deny-
ing their children their birthright — the Lion has not seen
in the whole trip a dozen children with the California
162 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
color in their faces — ^yet really wondering why everyone
else doesn't '*come to live here." And the Lion's only
comfort in the whole trip — aside from the pleasure of his
little cub in wonders she hopes never to see again — ^has
been the renewed realization how lovable some people can
remain in that environment. Some of the Salt of the
Earth are there — ^here's wishing them in a better shake !
A PitCK The incompatible Prof. Harry Thurston Peck is the only
^^ ally of the discomfited and discredited Selififman strikers to
answer back a word to the charg'es made against them of
immoral and unscientific methods in the Ross case. He does not,
indeed, pretend to answer what was said in these pages for June as
to his own peculiar procedure — ^which even a cleverer juggler would
find hard to defend — but in his August Bookman he does give up
about a page to a lordly waving aside of the accusation as " amusing
but not serious." Naturally he deems absurd the contention that the
attack on Stanford University sprang largely from Kastern provin-
cialism— of which he is no mean example. This need not be dis-
cussed now. Insularity — ^and Prof. Peck*s share in it — ^ia a good
enough text at any time, and shall have in its time its sermon. But
his ** defense," being part evasive and part untruth shall have its
present attention.
We understand (and this is the vital point)," says Prof. Peck,
that Mr. Lummis has accepted official favours from Prest. Jordan
and from the other authorities of the Stanford University. That
fact must prevent everyone from taking seriously anything that he
writes or says upon the subject."
It might be convenient to him if ** that fact" would so prevent ;
but it will not. There are people to whom '' the vital point" will be
not whether Prof. Peck "understands" that I have accepted
" favours," but whether my charges arc true. Prof. Peck does
not venture to deny them. He has a right to profess that his own
essays would be unreliable if and after his colleague in the Columbia
faculty and in the present fiasco. Prof. Seligman, offered him a bow
or a cigar unrebuked. He has a right to admit that if he were a
lawyer he would understand that a retainer bound him to perjure
himself ; that as an editor and reviewer he cannot deal truthfully
with a book from whose publisher he has accepted the '* favour" of
an advertisement. He may be correct in fancying that in the circles
which he adorns this is the generic rule. But he may as well under-
stand now as at another time that this magazine is run on other lines.
But Prof. Peck does not " understand " any such thing. It is pain-
ful to have to rebuke a Columbia professor twice running for his
misuse of the King's English. Possibly the gentleman meant to
tell us that he has heard someone say that I had " accepted fav-
ours." And quite in line with the strikers he espouses, this is quite
//V THE LION'S QEN. 163
sufficient for him. Without attempting to verify his anonymous
rumor, therefore plainly not caring whether it was true or not, he
has given this foolish falsehood what circulation he could.
I have accepted no " favours," official or unofficial, from Stanford
University or any of its authorities. Nor if I had would it seem to
me necessary to lie in its behalf. All the ** favours " of all the uni-
versities in the country would not seem to me a good bargain for
putting my name to a careless falsehood, nor to screeds so ignorant
and ill-bred as Prof. Peck has twice signed in this controversy. If
he finds it " amusing " to be charged with ignorance, untruth and an
indecent assault upon a woman, I can but envy his sense of humor.
It must be an invaluable possession for a gentleman so peculiarly
liable to be amused in just this way.
Death has been striking high, of late, in the literary ranks; his
and since the last issue of this magazine has taken four SHiwiwo
2CAILKS
men we could ill afford to part with. W. J. Stillman, who^e
ripe autobiography was barely done in time ; and John Fiske, the
eminent popularizer of history — a victim to the Eastern summer
heat — and Charles Nordhoff, the pioneer writer of California as a
home ; and Joseph Le Conte, the well-beloved geologist — that is a
heavy toll for so short a time. California has been taxed dispropor-
tionately in the death of Nordhoff and Le Conte ; two of her most
eminent men each in his field, and two whose lives made life better
to all that touched them. Even in this material age, there is room
and reward for the young men who shall seriously and broadly try to
fit themselves to fill the places of these four.
This issue has been seriously delayed by the removal of rsady
the office of publication to larger quarters especially de- ^^^
SXPA27SIOIV
signed for the business, and in pursuance of plans for the ^^
enlargement, broadening and betterment of the magazine. Steps
are now taking to acquire a complete plant of its own, with full
equipment not only for the production of the magazine but for a
general publishing business. Its field is growing. Lros Angeles is
growing faster than any other city in the Union, and the magazine,
with constantly increasing business and standing, must enlarge the
facilities it has long taxed. Without losing any of the qualities
which have won it the sort of friends it values, it expects shortly to
make improvements which will very greatly increase its scope and
value.
Bven as these pages are upon the press, our President has about Timb
been shot down by an obscure and unpronounceable assas- ^^^ ^^
sin. It is too early (this day next following the deed) to
forecast the outcome. The doctors are hopeful ; and surgery is not
what it was in Garfield's day. On the other hand, Garfield had the
advantage of a dozen years in age and of a far more normal phy-
sique. The figure President McKinley has suffered within a few
years makes an abdominal wound immeasurably critical. It is a
164 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Blender thread now upon which hangs so much. Every genuine
American, of whatsoever faith, will earnestly hope — and each after
his own fashion pray — ^that the President shall recover. God spare
him — and thus much of our country's honor !
Whatever the result of these shameful wounds, even if the one
chance in a thousand fall in our favor, we may now count that within
thirty-six years three Presidents of the United States have been
murdered in office. If anything on earth can give a moment's pause
to our national hurrah of Prosperity and Progress, this should be
the thing. Like little wanton boys that swim on bladders, we thump
our chests in glee, and bid a shrugging elder world admire how we
float. Now, perhaps, we can stop long enough to remember that the
ocean is old and deep and has dealt with boys and bladders before —
and shall again.
I/incoln, Garfield, McElinley — does that red list mean anything ?
Is this Prosperity ? Do we expect to assassinate a President every
dozen years, if only we are Making Money ? Is there no one to
reckon with, save one addled wretch ? Is this what a republic means 7
What is a republic, except The Lot of Us ?
The murder at Buffalo means more than the death of any one man.
It means more than our sympathy for him and his. It is an a£Pront
and shame to every American, a blot upon our country. Three
Presidents murdered — and all within a short lifetime 1 What other
country in the world has done so ill ? What two countries have
equaled this bloody record in the same time 7 How many centuries
since a King of England has been assassinated 7 How many Czars
have perished feloniously within our memory 7 When did poor
Mexico butcher a Viceroy or President 7 Why is a ruler's life less
safe in this country than in the " revolutionary " South American
republics 7
Perhaps it means something, that we have murdered more rulers
in thirty-six years than any other civilized country has in a hundred.
Perhaps it means something, that we yearly roast alive more human
beings than any savage tribe ever did. Perhaps it means something,
that we have more murders, rapes, infanticides, than any other na-
tion. And if any of these things mean anything, it is about time,
is it not, for us to find out what they mean 7 It is time, perhaps, for
you and me to be looking ourselves up and down for spots — ^for
when a republic goes wrong, no man's clothes are clean from
blood. It is as cowardly as it is childish to lay these things to un-
digested aliens, to anarchists, to the ignorant. Is this an alien
country 7 Is this an anarchic country 7 Is this a country of Poor
White Trash 7 Or is it Ours 7 Who lets in aliens undigested 7 Who
tolerates anarchists 7 Who leaves ignorance unremedied 7 Who
shall guard the life of our chief magistrate — police and an army,
or the faithful citizenship of free men 7 Who makes bad laws or
leaves good ones lax — ^the hireling politician or the People who hire
him carelessly 7 It may be a good time to suppress anarchy in the
United States ; it is a far more vital time to feel that every man who
rides on a republic is a thief if he evades his fare. There are a few
hundred anarchists in this country ; there are millions of men " toa
busy " to render anarchy here as impossible as it was when we still
' remembered the old ideals of the republic.
CSAS. F. LUMMIS.
CanduEM b, WILLIAM E. SMYTHE.
To say that the history of the West i» the record of rail- cohbiming
road-butlding' would not be entirely correct. Bnt it is within wbstiekn
bounds to say that of all the factors engnged in planting- bailroads.
civilization, where fifty years a.go Lhere was naught but primeval
wilderness, the most influential was the iron horse. And it is meas-
urably true to add that the prosperity of producers and the progress
of settlement in this Western land promptly reflects the wisdom or
theerror of various policies in railroad management. During the last
few years certain new tendencies of mighty import to the economic
life of the West have been oliservable in railroad policy. Of these
tendencies the most important by far is that which looks to consoli-
dation in ownership and management. This process be^n at the
upper edg'e of the map and has gradually extended until it includes
the great ttarongh line which parallels the Mexican boundary. Al-
though the aboOTption of many local lines is yet far from complete,
enough has tjeen done to justify the statement that the old era of
competition in Western railroading has now passed away, and that
in its [dace there has come a new era of combination and of har-
mony. The change must be a matter of vast significance. It must
necessarily have a close and intimate relation to the future commer-
cial life of the West, using the term in its broadest sense as touching
not only the exchange of commodities, but the settlement of people
on the Land, the development of mining and manufacturing, and the
growth of cities. This new influence cannot be neutral. It must lie
positively good or positively bad. And it is a matter of the highest
interest and importance to consider which.
The theory of competition is that when the public is dia- Thboky
satisfied with rates or service from a given line it may find OF
m:ompt relief by transferring its patronage to another. cohpsTITIon.
The further theory is that thd constant struggle for business between
competing roads will result in preserviag reasonable charges all
around. The reverse of this proposition would be that where there is
no competition the public must submit to an arbitrary tariff and ser-
vice, and that the single management which controls the only means
of transportation will be able absolutely to dictate the terms upon
which business may proceed. If these propositions be sound, it would
almost inevitably follow that the recent consolidations must be
calamitous to our people. But are they sound 7
However men may diflfer on other subjects, they agree TBACaXNG
that experience is more valuable than abstract theory. oP
Now, California and the West have had thirty years' expe- BXfbrebkcb.
rience with competitive railroad management. Have the results
been all that the theory would seem to imply 7 As a matter of fact,
haa the machinery of competition furnished an automatic means of
relief from high charts and poor service 7 By withholding traffic
166 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
sources 7 In a word, have the results of competition been so satis-
factory that we must now contemplate any change with dread as
something' which must inevitably prove unfortunate ? These ques-
tions go to the root of the matter. Every one of them must be
answered in the negative. Competitive railroad management has not
in practice given us the results which it promises in theory. To the
business community it has brought alternating periods of high rates
and low, with perpetual uncertainty as to what transportation charges
will be in the future. This condition is always disturbing to com-
merce. To the railroads themselves competition has brought de-
structive rate wars and has frequently led to financial embarrassment
and even to bankruptcy. The ulterior effects have been seen in
political warfare between the public and the corporations, in com-
mercial stagnation at certain times and places, and in the utter dis-
couragement of that interest which underlies all others in Western
development — ^the interest of colonisation. Whatever may come
from the policy of consolidated ownership and management, the
policy of competition among Western railroads has been proven to
be unscientific and unfavorable to the best interests of patrons and
of stockholders.
IN oi/D What is the promise of results under the new order of
BNCi^AND things ? The policy may be judged in the West only by its
AND IN NEW. earliest manifestations. But in other communities — both in
old England and in New England, for instance — ^it may be weighed
in the scales of the years. Public sentiment in Great Britain is not
favorable to the kind of competition we have had in the West. There
existing railroad lines cannot be paralleled without a special act of
Parliament. It must be shown, first of all, that there is a public
need for the new line. Then, that the business is capitalized on the
basis of the actual investment, so that the large values represented
by the franchise given by the public shall not be used as a basis for
the issue of securities on which dividends shall be compelled. Fur-
thermore, the public limits charges to the lowest rate of interest on
safe investments ; dictates the character of construction ; and tests
every mile of track, every culvert and every bridge before trains are
permitted to be run. Under such conditions railroad monopoly does
not imply the oppression of the traveling or shipping public.
Such regulations are impossible where unrestricted competition pre-
vails. £i other words, the protection of the public interests carries
with it the obligation to protect the capital invested in the work.
It is better for the public and better for the capital. And the first
step to the adoption of such methods in the West was taken when
James J. Hill consolidated the Great Northern with the Northern Pa-
cific, thereby eliminating competition from the Northwest. In New
England the process of consolidation begun some fifteen years ago.
Practically, there are but two railroad systems in all New England
today. These two have absorbed their many competitors. Liower
charges for freight and passenger traffic, and infinitely better ser-
vice, have resulted. Morever, the assertion of public authority has
been better justified, better received, and more effective.
RBsui^TS The new policy in the West is as yet in its early infancy.
IN THE What has it demonstrated thus far ? To begin where the
NORTHWEST, policy itself began, has it exerted a depressing influence on
the vast region between Lake Superior and Puget Sound ? On the
contrary, it has worked well for both public and private interests.
The development of the Dakotas, of Montana, of Idaho and of Wash-
ington has gone forward with a vim and a vigor hitherto unknown.
A new spirit of enterprise has begun to thrill through every commu-
nity. New agricultural districts are beginning to be settled and old
20TH CENTURY WEST. 167
towns to shake ofF the lethargy which held them in bonds. The
effect on the railroad properties themselves has been equally strik-
ing*. Paying- roads have been made more profitable, while those that
had been bankrupt are now making money.
In California the consolidation policy has so far produced and
no bad results, but seems to promise to accomplish as much in
good as it has done elsewhere. The new head of the South- caupornia.
em Pacific system — now a£51iated with the Union Pacific — began
with the grateful announcement that he would take the road out of
politics. He proceeded to reform many minor abuses. Acting in
harmony with the management of the Santa F6, he made rates for
colonists which permit large numbers of people to visit the Pacific
Coast with a view to making their homes here. This is the true
policy for Western railroads — to enable people to inhabit their terri-
tory. It has been estimated that every family settling upon a given
line is worth, considering what it ships in and what it ships out,
$250 per year to the railroad. When people shall come by thousands
and tens of thousands this figure will amount to a very great total.
Under the competitive plan it was practically impossible to carry
this philosophy into the head office of every corporation. By the
time one president had been convinced five others had slipped off the
hook. If one road granted low rates the others inaugurated a rate
war. This demoralized traffic and had a tendency to increase charges
in the end. With consolidated management it is only necessary to
convince a few broad-gauged men. Then, if the plan prove suc-
cessful, it can be made permanent without any danger of disrupting
the whole basis of traffic by precipitating strife among the railroads.
The simple truth is that just in proportion as the business of trans-
portation is brought into harmony does it become truly scientific.
That the present railroad policy marks the end of progress no one,
of course, can pretend ; but that it is more intelligent and, hence,
more favorable to the development and prosperity of the West than the
reckless competition we have had in the past, no thoughtful student
of our economic life can deny. The subject is one worthy of much
deeper consideration than it can be given here, but the point is this :
L#et us be thankful for what we have ; let us have faith that even
better things are ahead. This should at least be the philosophic
attitude of those who believe that the final solution of the trans-
portation problem will be found' in government ownership. However
remote that solution may be, the transition could be effected far
more easily after consolidation than l)efore. Competition leads
inevitably to combination ; combination to monopoly ; monopoly to
public ownership. Such has been the process in the case of water
and lighting systems in many cities, and such is the apparent ten-
dency of street railways in several conservative communities. But
let us wait and see what the railroad monopoly purposes to do
with us.
At no time since the great railroad boom between 188G Thb rivai,
and 1890 has the construction of new lines been so active in roads to
the West as now. That the long-cherished dream of direct SAi«T i^akb.
connection between Salt Lake and Los Angeles should now material-
ize in the form of two rival lines — both backed with amplest capital
— ^is one of those rare surprises which does not too often mark the
history of our development. The terminals of these roads both rank
among the most remarkable of American cities. Both are towns of
extraordinary historical interest ; both have exerted an unusual
influence upon the sections in which they are located ; and both have
continued to pile up population through good times and bad. If Salt
Lake and Los Angeles were taken off the map of the West and out
168 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
of its history for the last half century what holes they would leave
in both ! It would be difficult to conceive of either map or history
without these great dominating' communities in their respective sec-
tions of the West. Two new railroad lines with such electric bat-
teries at their terminal points must exert an influence little less than
magical upon that wide region — ^vacant and voiceless, but richly en-
dowed with every source of economic wealth — ^which lies between
them and which has waited so long for its day of development to
dawn. Rich mines which could not get their ores to market for lack
of transportation facilities ; veritable mountains of iron and of salt
which have lain as idle and useless as if they were so much dirt ;
wasted rivers of precious waters with countless thousands of potential
horse-power; fertile lands where homes for millions might raise
their roofs against the background of purple mountains — all these
are now to b€»come factors that count in the making of civilization.
ARIZONA Arizona, too, is getting its share of the new railroad ac-
8TRIDIN6 tivity. Phelps, Dodge A Company are pushing the line
AHBAD. eastward from their wonderful copper camp at Bisbee to
connections at Bl Paso. Well informed men see in this move the
purpose of the Rock Island to stretch its arm westward to the Pacific.
Local lines are also being improved and extended in the mining re-
gions of Arizona. Northern Mexico is feeling the influence of this
development and getting new facilities of communication. With its
mining, its railroad-building, and its prosperous live-stock industry,
Arizona is increasing its population and fast becoming one of the
brightest spots on the map of the United States. It is to be another
Africa so far as the production of wealth is concerned. But, spite of
the long delay in getting Statehood, it will not be, like South Africa,
a graveyard of liberty.
SAN DEBGO'S In the midst of all this Southwestern prog^ss what is
RISING San Diego doing ? The City of the Silver Gate is by no
HOPSS. means indifferent to the opportunities which may come to it
from the present era of prosperity, local and national. It is arraying
all its forces for a supreme effort to break the walls of its isolation
and establish direct communication with Yuma. Such a route would
be the true short line to the Orient, saving hundreds of miles of rail-
road travel and avoiding high grades and snow blockades. But it is
in its local aspect that the matter appeals most strongly to San
Diego. While no one has denied that San Diego has a superb harbor
in front of it, few have realized or admitted that it had also a vastly
productive mineral and agricultural country behind it. But the men
who are now turning the waters of the Colorado River upon the vast
stretch of fertile delta soil have found the key to San Diego's back
country. They have unlocked the door and thrown it wide open.
What this means to the future of San Diego, provided that it can
somehow manage to get the Eastern railroad outlet, it is difficult for
anyone fully to appreciate, even with the essential facts before them.
Ifet it be put in this way : If Phoenix and the irrigated lands of
Salt River Valley were placed at one end of the Colorado Delta ; if
Bakersfield and the irrigated lands of Kern Valley were placed at
the other end; then if Fresno and the large district watered by
Kings River were placed in the middle, none of these great com-
munities would touch the other. Redlands and Riverside, each with
its surrounding cultivated area, might be added to the new district
which is now being spoken into life by the waters of the Colorado
River, and stiU there would be ample room for growth. These are
marvelous facts, of deep significance to the cities so situated as to
become the points of exchange for all that such a country may pro-
duce and consume. Well may the people of San Diego realize that
20TH CENTURY WEST. 169
this is the supreme moment in the making- of their cit j — that if this
opportunity escapes them they will be sidetracked for years to come.
Under any circumstances the trade of this region must be divided
with Los Angeles to some extent. But without the projected rail-
road it will go there entirely. The present indications are that San
Diego's railroad movement will be successful, and that the next
national census will reveal a larg-e increase not only in the popula-
tion of the county — ^which is already assured — but in that of the city
as well.
Cooperation has now become the firmly established coOpbraTION
method of marketing the product of California orchards soi«D THBIR
and vineyards. It has been vindicated in good times and in prunes.
bad times, and the fact is proven that prosperity on the part of the
producer is an exact ratio to his control of the market. It is true
that in fixing a season's prices cooperative exchanges have some-
times overshot the mark, but the resulting losses have been trifling
compared with those which the growers sustained when commission
houses fixed prices on a basis which did not allow them to make a
living. One of the most interesting examples of the benefits which
may arise from cooperation is seen in a recent experience of the
prune-growers. I^ast year there was a very large prune crop. The
California Fruit Association fixed the prices reasonably high — ^un-
reasonably high, some people said. In consequence of this, or for
some other reason, the crop did pot move satisfactorily. "Full of
prunes " may be a slang expression under some circumstances, but it
exactly expressed the condition of the farmers of Santa Clara Valley
and many other horticultural districts. With another year's crop
coming on, what was to be done about that which already remained
largely unsold ? If the g-rowers had not been thoroug^hly organized
under able leadership nothing could have been done except to take
such terms as might be offered by an unsympathetic market. But
the prune-growers were well organized. They had brains and they
had capital. They were therefore in a position to make a fight for
their lives. They decided that the real cause of their troubles was
not overproduction, but underconsumption. That is to say, none too
many prunes are being raised in Csdifornia, but the world is not
eating as many prunes as it ought to. Doubtless there are many
people who do not know that the prune is a very nutritious article of
diet. Many others think that it is only good when stewed. They do
not realize that it may be served in a hundred other palatable ways.
So the Cured Fruit Association decided to advertise the glorious prune
and, in a mild sort of way, to thrust it down people's throats whether
they wanted it or not. They proceeded to take space, '* top of column,
next to reading matter," in about all the newspapers of the land.
They had the ladies prepare a most appetizing cook-book showing
the many and seductive dishes which might be built upon the humble
prune as a foundation. Doubtless they also obtained professional
testimonials, to the effect that ** I ate your prunes two years ago and
and have eaten no others since," or to the effect that *' my husband
was never good to his family until I began to feed him on prune
shortcake, and now he is an angel." But the writer has not seen the
testimonials. He merely infers that the enterprising prune-growers
went the whole figure. At any rate, they made a success of their
effort to unload their surplus crop on a world that was dying for
prunes, but which did not know it. The following extracts from a
letter written by President F. N. Woods, of the California Cured
Fruit Association, give evidence that this is so :
"We have succeeded in opening up several new markets for
prunes, some in Europe, some in the Orient, and more in our own
country, through liberal advertising. This advertising was a grand
success. It called the attention of people all over the United States
170 LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
to the beneficial qualities of the prune as an article of diet, and we
received thousands of inquiries for our cook-book and other informa-
tion regarding prunes.''
And now the Associated Press brings the joyful news that the
prune-growers' exchange has just unloaded 24,000,000 pounds of its
product on Eastern buyers at a sing^le stroke. They received $50,000
spot cash and were to get the balance of $250,000 when the fruit was
weighed and shipped. The sale was made at a very fair price. The
plain lessson of this experience is that it is necessary for the pro-
ducers to act in cooperation in order to protect their interests and
widen the market for their products.
Tsat The regular readers of this department will find a thread
EDitosiAi, of consistent purpose running through it from month to
TARGBT. month. While each issue is intended to be complete in
itself, so that it shall interest the merely casual reader, it is the per-
manent audience composed of those deeply interested in the growing
civilisation of the West that the editor means constantly to keep in
mind. Hence, the editorial articles and outside contributions are
designed to possess a certain quality of continuity which will g'ive
them peculiar force when read as a whole. The editor has very de-
cided views as to the trend of legislation and character of institu-
tions which will enable the West to develop a type of civilisation
suited to its environment and to the human needs of the Twentieth
Century. Naturally, he desires to see these views find general ac-
ceptance in the end. This result can only be attained by scientific
processes. Economic laws grind their own grist regardless of the
puny efforts of men. But t£e happiness and prosperity of the gen-
erations who succeed each other as tenants of the earth depend
very largely upon their perception of the character and meaning of
these economic laws and upon their success in bending their institu-
tions to fit them. To illustrate, a few million people are living
between the Missouri River and the Pacific Ocean where, in God's
good time, twice as many as now live in the entire United States
shall come to make their homes. They are using land and water
under laws and customs inherited from their fathers who dealt with
entirely different conditions. In order to discover the error of these
laws and customs we must take them up, one by one, for patient
analysis. Then we must study thie forces that surround us and try
to find out by what measures of reform and progress we may lay the
best foundation for the prosperity and freedom of our future millions.
Thus in these early numbers we shall look at our water and land
laws, at our colonisation and cooperative efforts, as they now exist.
Presently we shall have discovered their elements of weakness and
of failure and shall then ^oceed to develop plans for their improve-
ment. This explanation is made as a means of training the reader's
mind upon the editorial target from the same standpoint that the
writer has chosen in his work.
171
How TO Colonize the Pacific Coast.
FIRST PAPER.
SEMI-PUBUC, PRIVATE AND COH3PERA1MVE EXPORTS.
I.
ffN this series of papers we are to consider one of the big^rest
I subjects that can engragre the thoughts of the builders
of the West. How, indeed, shall we colonize the Pacific
Coast ? We are not doing so very rapidly today. With all
the advantages of soil, climate, mineral wealth and elbow
room, the growth of California in the last decade barely
kept pace with the average growth of the oldest Eastern
States. What is even more strange, such growth as there
was went more largely into cities and towns than into the
settlement of country districts. As a matter of fact,
many of the latter actually declined in population.
Colonization is not a subject of narrow interest, appealing
only to those with land to sell. The growth of population
is a matter of high importance to the railroads, because
they will move the people and their products ; to whole-
aale and retail stores, because they will furnish them with
supplies; to banks, because they will receive their deposits
and make them loans; finally, to States, counties and
towns, because they will look to them as a body of tax-
?ayers with whom the public burdens may be shared,
^hus colonization involves the whole broad question of our
development and prosperity.
During the past fifty years in which the settlement of
irrigated lands has been going on, three leading agencies
have been employed in the work, as follows :
1. The semi-public efforts of railroads, local Chambers
of Commerce and State Boards of Trade, aiming at the
promotion of immigrati6n to certain large sections, rather
than at the sale of specific tracts of land.
2. The private efforts of individuals and companies
having tracts of land of their own to sell.
3. The cooperative efforts of groups of people aiming
to form colonies for themselves, or to increase the member-
ship of those already established.
Taking up each of these efforts and examining them in
the light of their results, we shall discover where they
have succeeded and where failed, and be able intelligently
to discuss new plans adapted to the changed conditions
which are exerting marked influences both West and East.
172 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
II.
The work done by railroad immigration departments,
and by the business org^anizations of many cities and
States, has been vastly beneficial. It is difficult to imagine
what the West would be today if the result of this ag-
g^ressive influence were suddenly subtracted from the sum
of our achievement. What a wonderfully interesting:
library one would have if one might gather all the books,
pamphlets, magazines and newspapers which have issued
from these sources I What a gallery, if one might collect
all the photographs, maps and other illustrations I When
to these advertising devices we add the influence of tem-
porary exhibits at numerous fairs, at home and abroad, we
g'et a faint conception of what has been done for us by
those tireless and ardent workers for the West. Still,
their work has been chiefly educational rather than pro-
ductive of direct results. When we have given them their
full meed of praise it remains to ask ourselves what are
their limitations when considered from the standpoint of
the actual organization and direction of the stream of set-
tlement for which our thousand Western valleys are wait-
ingr^
The local Chamber of Commerce has everywhere become
a permanent institution, only a little less essential than the
school system itself. Its secretary is, first of all, indis-
pensable as a statistician. Without him the community
would be quite powerless to measure its prog:ress or to take
account of its growing needs. He is indispensable again
as the ready correspondent of the outside public inquiring:
for homes or investments. Finally, he is worth all he costs
as a perennial source of inspiration to his own locality.
Without him the tree of prog:ress would wither at its roots
and the stream of faith dry up at its sources. So also the
railroad immigration department supplies a permanent
need, since no other agency can deal officially with the
very important matter of transportation in its relation to
settlers.
It still remains to inquire whether these semi-public in-
strumentalities serve our needs in getting settlers. They
do not, except to a very limited extent. They can supply
g'eneral literature and find the g:eneral financial support for
effective advertising done through responsible newspapers
and magazines. Beyond this point they cannot go effect-
ively. When they undertake to supply the vast amount of
specific information required in the successful organization
of colonies they fail to meet the public demand. The time
has come when scientific methods are required in this de-
20TH CENTURY WEST. 173
partment. The work in hand is not booming, but build-
ing. It is serious work, calling for the use of trained in-
telligence. That is, of intelligence widely informed in
this particular field.
When a man wants to erect an elaborate building he
first sends for an architect, who is not only capable of pre-
paring the general design, but understands all classes of
material which will be used in construction and who knows
the relations of the various contractors and groups of arti-
zans to the completed whole. While any enterprising man
may point out the need and advantages of such a building,
and even indicate a good site in a general way, a different
sort of trained intelligence is required to work out the de-
tails, to lay a safe foundation, and to evolve a superstruc-
ture which shall meet all the demands of utility and
beauty.
Within their well defined spheres the semi-public agen-
cies which have done so much for us in the past, will con-
tinue to perform useful service in the future. But if we
can enlist no other influences in the work of colonization
our progress will continue to be slow, painful, and marked
with many blunders.
III.
The private efforts of individuals and companies having
land of their own to sell are easier of analysis. Speaking
broadly, this method has been disappointing alike to the
sellers and to the buyers. Looked at as a means of colo-
nizing the whole great West, it is simply archaic. The
mighty elements which enter into the labor of Twentieth
Century colonization do not lend themselves to the control
of puity individual efforts.
In certain parts of the West — notably in the orange-
growing districts of Southern California and the prune-
growing neighborhood of Santa Clara — some good work
has been done in this way. The swarm of real estate
agents conspicuous in every Western town generally in-
cludes a few persons who conduct a successful business
with homeseekers finding their way to such localities. But
when we look over the entire Western half continent and
candidly consider the results of these private efforts, rang-
ing all the way from those of the newest real estate agent
to those of the strongest and richest companies, we must
pronounce them a failure— dismal, irretrievable. Indeed,
the fact is notorious. It is not desirable to mention names
or specific localities. But, in a general way, this line of
effort has led to the same unsatisfactory result in the San
Joaquin and the Sacr9.mento, in Eastern Washington and
Southern Idaho, in Utah and Colorado, in Arizona and
II
II
20TH CENTURY WEST. 1^5
New Mexico — wherever it has been applied to the settle-
ment of irrigated lands. The conclusive condemnation of
this method may be read in the returns of the last census.
It has simply failed to meet the needs of the times. When-
ever the result has been otherwise, the fact has been due
to unusual local conditions.
The most striking feature in the history of these private
efforts is the fact that where it has approached most nearly
to success it has been associated with an organized colony
plan, real or pretended. On the other hand, where the
prospectus has made no mention of industrial and social
organization, but dealt only with the mere material con-
siderations, the financial returns have seldom been suffi-
cient to repay the cost of the effort, to say nothing of the
value of the property conveyed. To put it in a word,
those who have tried to appear as builders have been far
more successful than mere boomers. Men who pride
themselves on being ** hard-headed and practical" dispute
this luminous truth, but they may find their answer in that
interesting and enlightening literary work known as the
Twelfth Census.
IV.
Of the three distinct agencies which have had to do with
the colonization of irrigated lands, the cooperative efforts
have been by far the most successful in themselves and the
most influential in shaping Western civilization. This
remains true after making due allowance for failures. The
failures have been small and of merely local effect ; the
successes have been large and of far-reaching influence.
In saying this no reference is intended to a few scattered
communistic undertakings which have been made at various
time and places and have uniformly failed. While com-
munism is always cooperative, cooperation is not neces-
sarily communistic, nor is it usually so in this country.
The great examples of cooperative colonization are found
in the history of Greeley, Colorado, of Anaheim and
Riverside, California, and of the Mormon settlements in
Utah, Idaho, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona. In none
of these cases was there any attempt at common ownership
of the land, but in all of them the irrigation works were
treated as a public utiMty and owned by the entire com-
munity of farmers. In none of them has the hope of great
financial gains been held out as the ideal to be sought, but
in all of them the desire to have independent homes, to
live among congenial people, and to be sure of a comfort-
able living has furnished the moving impulse. With the
single exception of Riverside, all made the policy of diver-
176 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
sified farming: the leading: principle of their industrial life.
All grouped their homes in villagfe centers, thoug:h as the
settlements expanded far beyond their original limits houses
sprung: up in the outside country, except in the case of the
Mormons who have always adhered very closely to the
villag:e plan. In all these g:reat settlements cooperation is
today more extensively used than it was at the beg:inning:,
with the exception of Anaheim. This exception is due to
the fact that the first improvements made there, not only
on the irrigation canal but also on the farms and village
homes, were done in cooperation. This plan was followed
in order that the majority of colonists might remain at
their business in San Francisco until the land had been
made self-sustaining.
The consequences arising from these famous cooperative
settlements present a striking contrast to the meager and
unhappy results of private eiforts in the same field.
Greeley led the agricultural development of the whole east-
ern slope of the Rocky Mountains. Drawing its member-
ship from that marvelous host, the readers of the New
York Tribune of Horace Greeley's day, it colored the intel-
lectual and social life of Colorado. It established not only
the highest standards of farming methods, but the best
ideals of civic life. From that first splendid schoolhouse
— reared in the midst of new-plowed lands, but worthy of
a New England town with a hundred years behind it — and
from the animated debating club in Colony Hall, went
forth the moral influences that made the agricultural life
of Colorado what it is. The pioneer settlement quickly
spread in all directions, crossing the boundary of Nebraska
and Wyoming. Wherever water could be had, the finest
class of settlers came to build their homes, attracted by
the fame of Greeley.
Anaheim and Riverside did for Southern California
what Greelej*^ did for Colorado. They established exam-
ples of rural life unknown before in any part of the world.
The inspiration which the public took from them made
possible the settlement of wide areas which no one had
dreamed of occupying before. These pioneers were real
home-builders and infused a spirit into the colonization of
the Southern valleys which does not breathe in the cir-
culars of land companies and cannot be manufactured in
railroad offices. The spirit of cooperation in which they
were founded led logically to the fruit exchange of today.
In just the same way the Mormons conquered the arid
valleys of Utah and the surrounding States. They were
never boomers, but builders always. And the corner-stone
in all their building is cooperation. Leave that out and
20TH CENTURY WEST. 177
the whole vast structure would fall into hopeless ruin.
Public Opinion ascribes their success to religfious zeal, but
public opinion mistakes the effect for the cause. It is easy
to make a man religious and to induce him to subscribe to
almost any creed, if you fill his stomach three times a day,
if you give him a home when he is homeless, if you make
him a partner in store, factory and bank, if you supply him
with pleasant social surroundings. In Utah it is not the
church that sustains the industrial system. It is the in-
dustrial system that sustains the church.
Our conclusions, then, are these : That local business
organizations and railroad companies will continue to
exert a good influence within their restricted spheres ; that
private and company efforts cannot hope to accomplish
more in the future than they are doing now, which is little
or nothing ; that the methods of cooperative colonization
have furnished the colossal successes of the past — a verdict
from which there is no appeal. It is along the latter line
that we lii^y look for the solution of our problem in the
f uturp: .' - But how ?
That is another story. W. E. S.
[to be; continukd.]
One Acre Better Than 10,000.
ff N a tour of the Sacramento Valley the writer was shown
I over a number of famous large estates, ranging from
5,000 to 100,000 acres, but the estate which struck him
as altogether the most interesting and hopeful of all he
saw in that splendid valley consisted of just one acre.
This is the irrigated '*farm" of Mr. Samuel Cleeks at
Orland, Glenn county.
In the Sacramento Valley irrigation is not fashionable,
though nature has favored it with a wonderful water sup-
ply. For a generation farmers have raised wheat by de-
pendence on the rainfall. Their farms are very large, and
they do not always take kindly to the suggestion of irriga-
tion and subdivision. Mr. Cleeks' little place is in the
midst of these great farms, many of which have now
passed out of the hands of their former owners as a result
of mortgage foreclosure. I found it an oasis of prosperity
in a desert of despair. When the proprietor told me that
he had supported himself and wife for thirty years on that
single acre of irrigated land, and when his neighbors in-
formed me that he was one of the men in the little town
who always had money to loan on good security or to do-
nate to a worthy cause, I marveled much and had an im-
mediate desire to know just how he had used his land to
178 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
produce such a result. Mr. Thomas Brown, Secretary of
the Lemon Home Colony, took the trouble to obtain and
send me the following exact information :
Bam and corral space, 75x75 feet ; rabbit hutch, 25x25 feet ; house
and porches, 30x30 feet ; two windmill towers, 16x16 feet each;
garden, 46x94 feet; blackberries, 16x90 feet; strawberries, 65x90 feet;
citrus nursery, 90x98 feet, in which there are 2300 trees budded ; one
row of dewberries, 100 feet long ; 4 apricot trees ; 2 oak trees ; 3 peach
trees ; 6 fig trees ; 10 locust trees ; 30 assorted roses ; 20 assorted
geraniums ; 12 lemon trees, bearing, which are seven years old ;
lime tree, 9 years old and bearing, from which were sold last year 160
dozen limes ; 8 t>earing orange trees ; 4 breadfruit trees ; 5 pome-
granate trees ; one patch of bamboo ; 3 calla lilies ; 4 prune trees ; 3
blue gum trees ; 6 cypress trees ; 4 grapevines ; 1 Bnglish ivy ; 2
honeysuckles ; one seed bed ; one violet bed ; 1 sage bed ; 2 tomato
vines, which are in bloom (December 2) ; 13 stands of bees.
Mr. Cleeks informed me that from the foregoing" sources
he has no difficulty in realizing a comfortable living and
putting $400 dollars aside each year. If the same could be
said of the average wheat grower, farming thousands of
acres without irrigation, the condition in the Sacramento
Valley would be very different from what it is. As the
matter stands today it must be acknowledged that one irri-
gated acre in the Sacramento Valley returns a larger net
profit than 10,000 acres without irrigation. To be sure,
Mr. Cleeks owes a part of his prosperity to the folly of his
neighbors whom he supplies with oranges and lemons,
peaches, apricots, berries and sundry other luxuries. That,
however, is one of the striking advantages of irrigation,
since it permits of intensive and diversified cultivation.
From a physician who has recently settled in Utah I
have the following interesting budget of suggestions along
the same line of thought :
Smai«i, Farming for Wombn.
I have long thought that half an acre ought to support many a
poor widow with children, who does not wish to marry again.
In 1865, without irrigation, in Uliilois, I raised all the vegetables a
family of four needed, and had many to give away, on a plot of
ground 20x25 feet, just one-ei^hty-seventh of an acre. I had also
from it 18 squashes for winter and 4 quarts of lima beans. It was
my first experience. I am convinced I could double that, with irri-
gation. I have l)een here four months, and am surprised at the
Mormon success. They deserve it. But I fear that more than half
the water is wasted. If I were to start a colony for poor people I
would tolerate no trees that did not bear fruit or nuts. There are
pear trees here that are as large and shady as our useless Lombardy
poplars. Women ought to raise fruit, as a rule ; they are not strong
enough for farm work.
I see no reason why half an acre should not support a family. In
Iowa, on a plot of ground about 50 x 100, products were raised which,
besides furnishing all the fruit a family of four used, canned for
winter and sold to the neighbors, left a balance to be sent fifty miles
20TH CENTURY WEST. 179
to market and sold for $35 ; and this was done by a one-armed^ man,
who was unable to work much, and on less than one*eig^hth]of an
acre.
Here, in Salt Lake, on a plot ISz 30 feet, very poorly irrigated, be-
cause it is my first experience, I raised all the summer vegetables a
family of four used, and had many to give away. This was less
than one-eightieth of an acre. One plum tree, two inches in diam-
eter, has 1,000 plums on it. In our front yard are twelve useless
shade trees that might wisely be replaced with fruit trees. You
speak of the population that can be supported by wise management.
If one acre can give a living to a family, 392 families, 1,000 persons
(or possibly 1,568), can be provided for on every square mile i
My idea is that surplus products should pay for pasture and feed
for a cow, which also should be a source of income besides. If poor
women would work out of doors, instead of using needle, they would
be healthier and happier. You see I look toward colonising the poor.
H. Durham.
California Water Laws
fALIFORNIA is a State requiring irrigation to sup-
port a dense population in comfort and prosperity.
There is far more land than water. Land which
can be irrigated is ten times as valuable as that which
cannot. Hence, to have water justly apportioned among
the largest possible number of users becomes one of the
most precious of human rights. Successor failure in doing
this must measure the extent of future growth, the quality
of civilization, the prosperity of all our people, reaching
to generations unborn.
The two great features underlying all irrigation law are
those touching appropriation and distribution. If we are
to have anything but anarchy — anything but the rule of
force, physical, mental or financial — there must be some
form of just and orderly administration to supervise the
original taking and perpetual use of water. There is no
semblance of such administration in California and most
other Western States. The law of appropriation is so
loose as to furnish practically no safeguards for the rights
it originates. As to distribution, there are no laws what-
ever.
What are the practical results of these conditions ?
What did the United States government find when,
through its body of experts, it brought the history of the
principal streams of California under the searchlight of
scientific investigation ? These questions will be sifted
to the bottom in early numbers of this magazine. And an
extraordinary exposure of pitiable conditions it will be.
180
Rochdale Co-operation in Cali-
fornia
MY F'mOF. D. T. FOWLKM.
fOOPERATION is the most interesting:, and in the
opinion of its friends, the most hopeful, influence in
the economic life of the Pacific Coast in this morn-
ing- of the twentieth century. Its methods and advantages
in connection with the sale and distribution of the various
fruit crops are well understood, but there is as yet no very
general appreciation of the important work which is being:
done by a system of local stores with a common wholesale
center in San Francisco. The failure of past attempts in
this line may have prejudiced the public against this form
of effort. And j'et is it not just as desirable that the
farmers and townspeople of California should unite in the
purchase of their supplies as that they should organize and
combine for the marketing of their products ? The suc-
cessful business man realizes that in order to succeed he
must not only sell his goods to advantag'e, but that he must
also buy as economically and shrewdly as possible. Coop-
eration is merely a matter of plain, common-sense business
engaged in by a number of people of similar interests.
To understand the Rochdale movement in California, we
must go back nearly sixty years to a little town in Eng-
land and there find the seed which has been wafted over
the world to take root in the soil of many different nations.
I.
STORY OF THE ROCHDALE PIONEERS.
In 1844 twenty-eight poor weavers in Rochdale, Eng-
land, established **the Society of Equitable Pioneers.'*
They had little capital, save courage and a good idea. In-
deed their poverty was so extreme that many of them could
only pay the pound required for membership by reg:ular
assessments of two pennies per week. Thus they were
able to start their little store in Toad lane, Rochdale, Dec.
21, 1844. The ** opening" was accomplished in the presence
of a scoffing crowd who made loud-mouthed predictions of
failure. The stock-in-trade consisted of a little flour,
bacon, butter and oatmeal. It was certainly a very humble
beginning.
At first the membership grew but slowly, and it was
seven years before the little shop in Toad lane was able to
keep open for trade six full days in the week. From the
beginning the humble cooperators had a high conception
of the ethical aspect of their work. This was shown by
20TH CENTURY WEST. 181
the fact that out of their poverty they established a propa-
ganda fund and proceeded to organize the work in neigh-
boring towns. Gradually they began to win the respect
and, later, to command the support of powerful minds.
Gladstone gave them an eloquent word of encouragement.
Tom Hughes, Thomas Carlyle, John Ruskin, and other
great men of the time lent their influence to an undertaking
which appealed to them as being not merely good business,
but good morals and good politics as well.
After twenty years of struggle and success, the many
Rochdale stores which had sprung up in England adopted
the method of the modern American Trust. Thus in 1864
the Manchester Wholesale was organized and, soon after,
the Scottish Wholesale. It was by means of this masterly
unification of the many retail stores into the Wholesales
that Rochdale Cooperation won its great battle and ad-
vanced to its present enviable position in the world of
finance, economics and humanitarianism.
Now, what do we find at the opening of the new century?
We find that Rochdale Cooperation is doing over one-fifth
of the distributing trade of England, and sending its pur-
chasing agents to all the great commercial centers of the
world. We find it has created not only a multitude of
stores, but a far-reaching system of cooperative mills and
factories which market their entire product through the
system of retail stores. Is the business still growing ?
Yes, in the last six months of 1900 the English Wholesale
alone scored a gain of nearly $45,000,000 of business over
the corresponding period of the previous year. That would
be creditable to a business genius like John Wanamaker, or
even to an American Trust. Vast business structures —
mills, factories, warehouses, stores — have been erected to
meet the ever-increasing demands of trade.
But the Rochdale Pioneers would doubtless be ashamed
of themselves if they had made nothing but money. They
have made institutions. They have made better conditions
of living for themselves and their children, for their
country and the world. They have established libraries
and reading-rooms with every modern improvement. They
have organized nurseries and schools for children ranging
from those too young for the kindergarten up to adults em-
ployed in factories. They have purchased and demolished
wretched old tenements and erected in their places com-
fortable buildings with all modern conveniences. And
these monuments stand on the very ground where the
Rochdale people once lived in squalor and degradation.
They have built thousands of pretty cottages for their
workers. How have they managed to do all this ? Why, it
182 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
was the easiest thing in the world. They had the profits
arising from the trade of a vast population in all the neces-
sities of life. These profits were directed to the enrich-
ment of the many rather than of the few. That is the
logical result of cooperation.
II.
THE FOUNDATION ROCHDALE PRINCIPLES.
Those who have known of the failure of cooperative
efforts in this country — and failure in this line is much
more widely advertised than success — will naturally think
that these poor weavers of Rochdale must have discovered
some very valuable principles, or they could not have
achieved such astounding results. That is quite true, yet
the principles are simple enough. The essential features
of the Rochdale system are as follows :
1. One member, one share, one vote. Thus no one man
or small group of men can control the company for their
private benefit.
2. The company buys and sells for cash, losing nothing
by bad debts. Frequently it has a small banking depart-
ment to assist members with loans.
3. All profits are returned to members in proportion to
their purchases, so that they get goods at actual cost.
Goods are sold at prevailing rates — no cutting of prices.
4. Shares may be paid in easy installments, but every
dollar draws interest from the time it is paid.
5. All employes get a fixed salary. There is no induce-
ment to deceive the customer in weight or quality of
goods.
6. As each retail store buys goods of its own Whole-
sale, in needed quantities and at lowest rates, it can do
business on smaller capital and at greater profit than other
retail stores. The retail stores are the stockholders in the
Wholesale. Thus the profits of the Wholesale are credited
to the retail, just as the profits of the retail stores are re-
turned to individual members.
7. The system cultivates a strong fraternal feeling, de-
velops a pure moral sentiment, and treats producer and
consumer, capitalist and transporter with fairness and
justice.
8. Profits obtained from merchandising are applied to
the establishment of factories, to the building of city and
country homes to be sold to members on easy terms, to
libraries, schools and hospitals. These profits are con-
stantly accumulating, and, as the Rochdale policy has been
to use them systematically to extend cooperation in busi-
20TH CENTURY WEST. 18S
ness and social life, the system is now immense in its rami-
fications. Lord Rose berry has referred to it as "a State
within a State."
The foregoing principles were laid down more or less
distinctly in the original prospectus of the Rochdale
Pioneers, but have been developed into a practical working
philosophy by the experience of years. Hence, those who
now desire to utilize them have the good fortune to be able
to begin where the Rochdale Pioneers leave oflf — except
that they do not " leave oflf " at all, but go on forever.
III.
THE ROCHDALE BANNER RAISED IN CALIFORNIA.
In the summer of 1899 three or four gentlemen, imbued
with cooperative ideas and familiar with the triumphs of
the Rochdale system in England, met from time to time to
discuss ways and means for organizing such a work in
California. They formed an association for propaganda^
naming it **The Pacific Coast Cooperative Union of
America." The purpose of the body was purely educa-
tional. Its first convention was held at Oakland, Novem-
ber 7-8-9, 1899, with delegates from various cooperative
associations, labor exchanges, granges, alliances, trades
union and farmers' clubs. The meeting was enthusiastic,
but studious and thoughtful. It resulted in a decision to
federate existing cooperative stores, as far as possible, in
the " Rochdale Wholesale Company," with headquarters in
San Francisco.
The Wholesale was duly incorporated and opened its
doors for trade on January 1st, 1900. This and all similar
stores have been formed under the splendid cooperative
laws of 1895, without which they would have been impos-
sible.
The second convention of the Pacific Coast Union was
held at Oakland, January 16-17-18, 1901. Like its prede-
cessor it was well attended and enthusiastic, and instead of
listening to plans and the expression of faith and hope,
this convention had the immense satisfaction of hearing
reports of plans adopted, of work accomplished, of trusts
successfully administered, of many stores established ;
finally, of a balance-sheet from the Wholesale showing a
surplus on the right side of the ledger.
At this writing Rochdale stores are in operation at the
following points : Newman, Healdsburg, Dos Palos,
Kingsburg, Oxnard, Ferndale, Lemoore, Berkeley, Altu-
ras, Hanford, Santa Barbara, Susanville, Lakeport, Sati-
coy, Santa Paula, Fresno, Upper Lake (Lake county),
184 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Adin, Potter Valley, Selma, Modesto, Sacramento, Santa
Rosa, Pomona, Ventura, Calistoga, La Grande, Los Banos,
Redlands, San Francisco, Oakland (two), and Reno, Ne-
vada.
A score of places are calling: for org^anizers to assist
them in the establishment of new stores, but there is a
lack of trained men for the work. The harvest is ripe,
but the laborers are few. Only knowledge of the move-
ment is needed to bring thousands to see the benefits to
come to them by membership in some Rochdale company.
To supply this need, as well as to teach cooperation in
general, a monthly publication called " The Cooperative
Journal," is issued at Oakland.
Readers will ask : *'How many of the stores started by this
movement have failed so far ? " Not one has failed. One
has been withdrawn, and some, owing to management and
environment, have been more prosperous than others. But
profits have been sufficient to pay interest on capital in-
vested in shares and, besides that, to return to members as
high as fifteen per cent on their purchases. The average
amount returned on purchases has been about ten per cent.
When it is considered that membership in the stores is yet
meager ; that working capital is quite small ; that boards
of directors are new to the system ; that some join .without
the true spirit of cooperation ; and that competing stores
throw all possible opposition in the way, the Rochdale co-
operators of California may feel justly proud of the prog-
ress made in eighteen months. Who can picture the re-,
suits to the social and economic life of this Coast if there
shall come from this movement anything approaching the
achievement of the Rochdale Pioneers in England ?
Pike's Peak, the geographical center of this great
arid region, will become the hub of the nation. The great
peak will become the Olympus of a new age. What the
Grecian mountain was to the days of mythology. Pike's
Peak will be to the new day of liberty — around its base
Golcondas that rival Ophir and Ind, that eclipse California,
the golden. It will look down on a thousand harvest fields
more beautiful than the tawny gold that Helen Hunt saw
in the changing glories of plain and mountain and sunset."
— Ex' Governor Alva Adams ^ of Colorado.
Workers for the West.
\ fit^ILS Western men are very nearly united in looking
wTf to the nation for larger support in the development
of our resources, it is well to appreciate what has
already been done and to be thankful for such blessings as
we have. Two important departments of the Federal
Government are engaged in actual work for the benefit of
irrigation along practical lines. The Interior Department
is dealing with our problems above the canal, and the Agri-
cultural Department with those below the canal. The
former works through the Geological Survey ; the latter
through a branch of the Bureau of Experiment Stations
known as Irrigation Investigations. The representative
J. B. LlPPlNCOTT.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
of the Survey in California is J. B, Lippincott, whose head-
quarters are in Los Angeles, while Elwood Mead of Wyoming
is the Expert in Charge of Irrigation Investigrations.
Mr. Lippincott has affiliated very closely with the organ-
ized movements in the State and aimed to make the results
of his work of practical l)enefit to the community. This
was strikingly shown by last year's examination of reser-
voir sites and measurement of streams in the valleys of
the interior and of the Coast Region. Most important re-
sults were obtained, and they will go far to guide future
development of the water supply, in connection both with
storage and artesian enterprise.
20TH CENTURY WEST. 187
Mr. Mead, on his part, arranged last year for the most
important studies ever made of the irrigation laws and
customs of California and of the consequences arising
therefrom. As the forthcoming report on this subject will
be thoroughly discussed in these pages the nature of this
important service need not be detailed here. Mr. Mead is
the head of the new College of Irrigation established at
the State University by President Wheeler, and has also
found time to lecture on the same subject at Harvard,
Princeton and other Eastern colleges.
^'
Judge North, founder of Riverside, Cal., occupies an
enviable place in Western history. The results which
flowed from his labors are much wider than the limits of
the beautiful community he founded, yet in Riverside alone
he and his associates have a monument more beautiful and
lasting than any that could be made of stone or bronze.
Alameda.
^C^IKE every great metropolis, San Francisco is ringed round
l^n with smaller cities and towns whose chief function is to fur-
^""-^ niah homes for the tens of thousands who like to do business
in crowded streets, but prefer to pitch their family tent in quiet
places. One of the most charming and satisfying' of these is Ala-
The site of Alameda la a long-, low peninsula forming part of the
eastern shore of the bay of San Francisco, directly across the bay
from the city of San Francisco, and about six miles distant from it.
The peninsula— wholly within the city limits— ia a little over four
miles long and from a mile to a mile and a half wide. Its greatest
elevation above tide-water is twenty-nine feet. A tidal canal, long
projected and soon to t>e completed, will cut the narrow neck con-
necting the peninsula with the mainland and convert Alameda into
an island.
On this site has been built up a city of about seventeen thousand —
distinctively and all but exclusively a city of homes. For in spite of
a small bnt important manufacturing interest, Alameda's main
reason for existence is to provide homes for some thousands of busi-
ness and professional men, whose work-time is spent in the great
and busy city across the bay.
The question of transportation to and from San Francisco is, there-
fore, of the first importance, and in this respect little is left to be de-
PfaotoB. by C. P. MxgxgBot.
190 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
sired. There are two distinct syatems of rail and ferry routes, the
"broad grange " and the "narrow gauge", both operated by the
Southern Pacific Railroad Company. The two lines run parallel. a
few blocks apart, along the length of the city, with stations at short
intervals. No part of the city is more than a few moments walk
from one of these stations, and the sixty-three daily trains give as-
surance against tedious waiting. The time retjutted from Park
street, Alameda, to San Francisco, is about forty minutes, of which
more than half is consumed by the trip across the Bay.
And just this trip across the Bay is counted by thousands as one of
the pleasanteat incidents of the day. On account of the absence of
cold weather and ice and snow, the trip across the Bay is equally
enjoyable in winter and in summer.
San Francisco Bay is called the finest harbor in the world, and the
passengers enjoying' their morning and evening trip pass in sight of
the greatest variety of shipping to be found in any port on the earfh.
The United States Navy has generally from six to twelve ships lying
at anchor, including the stately battle ships, the swift, white cruisers
and the transports engaged in carrying troops and munitions of war
t>etween the Pacific Coast and the Philliplne Islands and China.
Ocean greyhounds of the Trans-Pacific steamship companies plying
between Northern and Southern Pacific Coast ports, Japan, China,
the East Indies, the Sandwich Islands and Australia are to be seen ;
and the deep-water sailing vessels from all of the ports of Europe,
Asia, Africa, North and South America are always in evidence.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
At tub Water's Edge.
The cost of this beautiful ride, by boat and rail, is ten cents for a
aing-le trip, or monthly commutation tickets may be bought for $3.
It will be seen that this low rate, and the frequent train service, put
the Alameda " suburbanite " at least on equal footing- in these re-
spects with the man who makes his home in San Francisco itself,
while in many other respects (as will l>e agreed by all those elect and
fore-ordained to dwell in suburbs) the comparison is much in favor of
the smaller place.
The most startling feature of Alameda's transportation facilities —
not indeed to its residents to whom years of habitude has made it a
A viBw or T.
ALAM£.DA. IW
matter of course, but to the nen-comer or visitor — is the fact that
within the city limits no fare is charg-ed on either of the steam rail-
roads. One may ride from one end of the city to the other abso-
lutely without charge and repeat the journey, if he likes, on every
trip the train makes. This condition is not wholly due to the disin-
terested generosity of the railroad company, but to a provision mad'^
when its charter was ori^nally granted.
There is also a nell-managed electric railroad running through
Alameda and connecting it with Oakland.
The climate of Alamcda^if Alameda be allowed to testify — is
well-nigh perfect. The broad and beautiful San Francisco Bay tem-
pers the summer heat, while the lofty hills on which the city of San
Francisco stands, cut off the ocean winds which would othemise at
times come with somewhat of harshness. In fact, there isadifFerence
in climate between Alameda and San Francisco which forces itself
upon the attention of the most casual observer, and just this differ-
ence is the reason why many choose to live in the smaller rather
than in the larger city. No snow ever falls in Alameda, and the
winter lawns and gardens, with their profusion of roses and other
flowers set among tropical palms and rare and delicate shrubs and
trees, are the pride and delight of the dwellers there, and a constant
wonder to visitors from less favored localities.
The deep, rich soil of the peninsula has t>een very favorable to tree
growth. Indeed, Alameda means "avenue of poplars", while ^ncjwa/,
the name given to one of the villages when there were several vil-
LANU OF SUNSHINE.
lages instead of one city
on the peninsula, is,
being interpreted, "the
place of live oaks".
Many of the native trees
have of course t>een sac-
rificed in making: the
city, but many more,
including rare and beau-
tiful exotics, have more
than taken their place.
More than fifty miles of
broad macadamized
lined on both sides with
shade trees, .and sur-
rounding- hundreds of
acres of luxuriant lairns
and gardens now make
of the whole city an
immense park. Indeed,
roads of unusual excel-
lence traverse the whole
country around, extend-
ing east into the foot-
hills of the Mt. Diablo
range, only a few miles
away, and southward
clear around the lower-
end of the Bay, and (by
way of San Jos^)
back to San Francisco.
This latter route— just a
hundred miles — is a fav-
orite TTith long-distance
bicycle racers. These
excellent roads natur-
ally make driving a fa-
It may be noted, in
passing, that the Ala-
meda Driving Associa-
tion has a speed track
which horsemen every-
where admit to be, in
passed in the country.
The Bay is, of course,
a dominating factor in
determining the pas-
ALAhAEDA.
Thb Encis&l Yacht Club.
timea of Alameda. There are two yacht clubs — the California, de-
voted atrictly to yachting, with seventy-five or more yachts in com-
mission, and the Elncinal, whose beautiful club-house on the Bay at-
tracts its members to boat or bathe or bowl. The Alameda Boat
Club intends to hold its own at all times in anything- from "sing-lea"
to "eights." And strung along the miles of water-front are many
private boat and bath houses.
A notable factor in the social and intellectual life of Alameda, is
the Adelphian Club, an organization of women not yet five year* old.
ALAMEDA. 199
which lotiff since reached its membership limit of two huadred and
fifty and has constantly a lengthy "waiting- list." The object of
this club ii primarily the promotion of study among- women, and its
chief pride is the substantia) work done in its various sections.
These include Enfrlish Literature. French, German, Spanish. Cur-
rent Events, Decorative Art, U. S. History, New Books, Music, Art
History and Physical Culture. A Civic Section has lately been es-
tablished, through which the Club expects to come into closer touch
with municipal affairs and make itself of practical benefit to the
The municipal government of Alameda is particularly noteworthy
as being free from partisan politics. The genus " professional poli-
tician " is conspicuous by his absence, and his place on the various
governing bodies is taken by property owners, elected by reason of
their fitness to administer affairs, not for the advantage of any ring
or clique, but for the interest of the city as a whole. The chief of
these bodies is the Municipal Board of Trustees, of five members,
elected for four years and serving without pay. The President of
this Board, chosen by its members, is the citizen of Alameda who
corresponds most nearly to
CHKIST CHUICH, AI.AHBDA.
200 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Alameda, is particularly praud of her school system, and with reason.
Yet she is not satisfied, taut is continually strivings to make her
provision for training- her young people a little l>etter.
The Board of Health, composed of five physicians and appointing
a Health Officer, a Veterinary Inspector and an Inspector of Health
arid Drainage, has charge of the sanitary affairs of the city. How
admirably it has attended to its duties may be gathered from the fact
that theiannual death rate of Ala-
meda is only about nine per thousand —
one of the lowest re-
The City Hall.
sewage that comes as close as possible to perfection, and a magnifi-
cent supply of artesian water, are factors in producing this desirable
state of things.
Aa illustration of the attention paid to the details which affect
the health of the community, the watchfulness over the char-
acter of the milk supply may be instanced. Bvery dairy supplying
milk to the city is registered and subjected to frequent tests and in-
spections. The result of these is recorded on a btacktioard in the
City Hall, and if any citizen wants to know how his milkman feeds
his cows, or what percentage of butter-fats is in his milk, all that is
necessary is to go look at the blackboard. Of course, nothing like a
diseased herd, a tilthy dairy, or "doctored" milk is tolerated at all.
The free public library, with 25,000 volumes on its shelves, is in
ALAMEDA. 201
charge of another Board of Trustees— also of five members. It oc-
cupies at present a. part of the city hall. One of the Carneg-ie gifts
— $35,000— was intercepted by Alameda, and a new library building
mil soon rise on a lot already set aside for that purpose.
Alameda owns its own
□ishes light for the street
consumerH at low rate.
The bonded indebtednc
valuation of $12,000,000. ... _,
the city is considerably in excess of its entire debt. The tax i
last year was 31.20.
The residents of Alameda do not include many of large wealth.
There are few mansions here—and no slums. The bulk of her citi-
zens are business and professional men, of moderate income, or well
salaried. Her growth has been marked by no booms, but has been
steady, clean and healthful. The limits of space— about 22,000 acres
including the whole peninsula— prevent the possibility of its gfowing
to great size, but there is stilt ample room and cordial welcome for
thousands more of such citizens as she now has. Handsome and well
built modem homes, well located and on large lota, can be bought
at from S2,500 to S4.000, and numerous building and loan associations-
are ready to help the home-seeker acquire bis home. The certain
great growth of San Francisco, and the consequent pressure of popu-
lation, the ideal climatic conditions in both summer and winter, and
the other factors going to make Alameda so desirable a place of resi-
dence, seem to assure a steady increase in the value of real estate.
One does not buy a home for speculative purposes, but it is as well to-
feel assured, when buying, that it is not likely to lose in value.
The Alameda Boaid of Trade, with a membership of about 125-
local busioeaa men, is active in matters concerning the growth and.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
welfare of the commuuitr, and is always ^lad to receive and answer
inquiries concerning' it.
A large tract of land fronting' on the deep water of the Bay, access-
ible by ships and railroads, has been bonded by an electric corpora-
tion. This corporation has an immense electric generating plant in
the foot hills, utilising the abundant water powers with never-failing
sources from the snow-capped Sierra Nevada Mountains. Land, with
electric power, will be sold or leased to manufacturing concerns.
The Board of Trade will interest itself in any proposition coining
from a prospective manufacturer, and do anything passible to fur-
ther such interests.
Xhe Land of Sunshine
PUBUSHBD MONTHI^Y BY
Tine Land of Sunahlne Publlalninii: Co.
( INCORPORATED )
Rooms 5, 7, 9 ; 121^ South Broadway, Los Angeles, Cal., U. S. A.
HEADS OP DEPARTMENTS
C. M. Davis
Chas. F. Lummis
P. A. Pattbe
Chas. a. Moody - - Snbscriptioo
SUBSCRIPTION RATES
Gen. Manager u ^ year in the United States, Canada and
- Editorial Mexico.
Business ^
11.50 a year to other countries in the Postal
Union.
Entered at the Los Angeles Postofficeas second-class m&tter.
To Subscribers and Advertisers.
OwinfiT to the absence in the East of the editor
of this mairazine, as well as to the removal to
more convenient quarters of printinflr presses,
etc., it was decided to issue the Auffust and
September numbers of the Lakd of Sunshine
in one edition or ''double number". Each
reader^s subscription and advertiser's contract
will therefore be extended one month, so that
each will receive the full number of copies or
insertions to which he is entitled.
Pullins: for the West.
If there is any one publication that merits the
undivided support of California and the West,
that publication is the Land of Sunshine of
l/os A nreles, edited by Chas. P. Lummis, than
whom there is no more loyal westerner beneath
the western skies. For seven years that sterlinff
maffazine has been laboring earnestly and
faithfully for the welfare of the west, by pro-
claiminfT its resources, championing-, its needs
and presentinff it. in its true liffht before the
world. And now comes the announcement that
the ff-ood work will be continued more energ-et-
ically and systematically than ever before.
Beg-lnning- with the July number, the Land
OF Sunshine will reg-ularly devote some twenty
paflres to a department entitled ** The Twentieth
Century West . " It will consist of an editorial
survey and commentary of the hig-heHt author-
ity, on "the really bier things" of current
progress and iuierest, supplemented by a great
variety of contributed articles written by the
foremost thinkers and workers of the West,
under the editorial supervision of W. E. Smythe.
It will deal particularly with the three g-reat
interests of irrig-ation, cooperation and coloni-
zation. No other current literature now avail-
able can compare with the contents of the de-
partment in practical value to the earnest men
and women who are creating- the civilization of
Western America; while to prospective in-
vestors and homeseekers It will possess an in-
terest wholly unique.
The department will not be dull or dry, but
full of interesting ideas and experience.— Cor-
ona Courier^ July 27, 1901.
Alameda to have a Pine illustrated
Article.
Some time ago the Encinal published a state-
ment that the Land op Sunshine, that sterling
Pacific Coast mag'azine published in Los
Ang-eles, had in contemplation the possibility
of devoting" considerable space in its {>ag-e8 to
this city. It is gratifying to be able to state
that the forthcoming- issue of the journal in
question will devote a dozen pag-es to an illus-
trated article upon this city. *•♦***
Contrary to the usual methods followed and of
which all Californians have become so weary,
the people of Alapieda are not asked to pay for
the article in question. At its own expense the
mag-azine makes the illustrations, prepares the
matter and publishes it. The only return that
Is asked is that as many of the people of the
city shall become subscribers to the publication
as appreciate good literary work.
The Land of Sunshine has been established
for seven years and now has a subscription list
of over 10,000. It g-oes into hundreds of public
libraries and reading-rooms, and is acknowl-
edged to be the best mag-azine ever issued on
this Coast.
The project has the endorsement and coopera-
tion of the Board of Trade, as indeed it should.
Alameda needs advertising-, and this sort of
work is advertising- of the very hig-hest class,
which cannot but prove beneficial.— ^/anxri/a
EncinaL
Honor to Whom Honor is Due.
In crediting the fine photographs of Stockton
and vicinity, reproduced in this mag-azine last
month, to Mr. Tibbitts, further acknowledg--
ment should have been made to the Southern
Pacific R. R. Co., to whom they belonir and
throug-h whose courtesy they were used.
A Popular Resort.
Redondo Hotel during the summer months be-
comes the social center of Los Ang-eles and en-
virons. A larg-e number of prominent society
X>eople are its regular guests, while its Saturday
nig-ht dances, which are nearly as select as if
they were by invitation, draw brilliant crowds of
temporary visitors from surrounding towns.
Weekly amateur theatricals and entertain-
ments, bowling alleys, tennis courts, g-olf
grounds, fishing, boating, etc., serve to fill the
hours at this eleg-ant resort.
Attractive and Valuable.
In photographic excellence and in designing-
of illustrations as well as in engraving- and
printing-. The midsummer number of Sunset,
the official monthly publication of the Southern
Pacific Railway Company, would be a credit to
any publication East or West.
If Easterners who are so ready to seek this
coast in order to e<%cape the rig-ors of winter,
but who submit to the more uncomfortable and
dang-erous conditions of Eastern June, July
and August, could see the government statistics
of California for those ihonths, published in
this number of Sunset, let alone the attractive-
ness of California canon and mountain resorts,
they could not escape the conclusion that they
must simply come here at once and stay.
A Merited Reward.
Mr. N. R. Martin has been promoted from the
publicity department of the Southern Pacific
Railway to the position of Los Angeles City
Ticket Affent. In his capable but unassuming
way, Mr. Martin is climbinir to the top of the
railway ladder.
Have you ever read any of Sweden-
borg*s works ? If not, will you send
me your address enclosing a stamp or
two and I will mail you one of his books
FREE. State whether you want it in
English or in German.
Adolph Roedbr,
80 Cleveland St., Orange, N. J.
BOOKS
Anything in the line of
Educational, Scientific
or Miscellaneous Books.
Vestpocket Dictionaries, Speakers and Dial-
og-ues. Bibles and Religious Books. Text-
books in Spanish, French and German. School
Books. All at lowest rate. HUM BOLT
BOOK AND STA. CO., 88S N. Oakley Ave.,
Chicag-o, 111.
OCTOBER, 1901
MORMONISM-BY ITS HEAD
THE HOOOOOSOP WYOMING
ON VERSA BUENA
Vol. XV, No, 4!
THE LAND OF
SUNSHINE
CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST
EDITED BY CHAS.P. LUMMIS
2AAAAAAAV1
CENTS LOS ANCEICS SAN fRANCISCO
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stuffed With WALNUT fllEATS^
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I
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I
RECEIVED,
NOV 6 1901 ■*■
PEABODY MUSEUM,
Vol. 10, NO. 4 OCTOBtR, 1001
The Ivory Crucifix.
" Ride, Juan, he follows, follows fast ! "
Nay, darling, down the wind
You do but hear the trampling herds
That flee our path behind :
Look forward where the sunrise plays
Across the mountain's rim.
There shall you measure fairer days
With me, and far from him.
" Oh 1 Juan, the desert lies between,
A waste of fear and dread,
Smitten with bitter winds that shake
The white bones of the dead ;
It lies between, as in our hearts
Our sinful loving lies ;
Think you that earth will grant us peace
An angry heaven denies ?
"Haste ! Haste ! I hear the click of steel.
The ring of muffled spur.
And fearful shapes loom grim against
The far mirage's blur ;
Up swimming on its trembling light
Huge shadowy giants ride.
Like blood-avengers through the haze,
He, with his men beside 1 "
208 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Red swung the sun, a sullen disk
Across the copper sky,
And whirling sand-wreaths pale as ghosts
Beat upward spitefully ;
Beat up and broke, and whirled anew,
And called their nameless kin
To race with them the race of death
No soul of man may win.
Forgot and far the fear behind,
Before the God of wrath
Outstretched his hands upon the storm
And barred their guilty path :
'* A cross ! " How grim and gray and gaunt
The tall Zahuaro loomed,
As if in solemn vigil o'er
Some martyr-saint entombed.
(i
Pray I Pray I " she whispered as they fell,
The pitying saints may hear.
Jesus ! One mercy in the name
Of her that is most dear !
Oh ! Mary, Mother ! if your grace
Be given to such as we,
I crave you of your tenderness
Spare him and punish me !
The crucifix my mother gave
With dying breath ! " she strove
To la)'^ the carven, ivory Christ,
Upon the lips beloved.
Mine be the penance, gracious Lord ! "
The dark wall closed apace.
As if earth sought to hide from heaven
That anguished, bleeding face.
Still, still along the drifted sand.
How still the starlight crept !
How still his vigil lone and sad
The gaunt Zahuaro kept !
There, where in wavering shadows that
Like life's threads intermix,
Her dead hand still to his dead lips
Pressed close the crucifix.
Prescott, Ariz.
A Visit to the Hoodoos of Wyoming.
parts of the countr)-, especially in the
Northwestern States, peculiar erosions
are found which are known as " Hoo-
doos," One of the largest and most in-
teresting groups of these grotesque geo-
logical formations is located just east of
the Yellowstone Park in Big Horn
county, Wyoming, As these Hoodoos
are very seldom visited, and as the meager published de-
scriptions seemed marvelous almost beyond belief, a small
party, of which the writer was a member, decided to visit
this region.
The party was outfitted in Bozeman, Montana, and con-
sisted of a guide, his two sons, a professor, a doctor, a
preacher, and the writer. We engaged a pacTcer and a cook,
and our pack train consisted of nine saddle horses and nine
pack horses. We rode about eiehteen miles the first day and
made camp just east of the Bozeman tunnel, at the top of
the divide between the Yellowstone and the Missouri, at
an altitude of about 5,000 feet. The following day we
passed through Livingston and traversed the dry plains in
the direction of the Absaroka Mountains.
Our third day's journey took us to the Natural Bridge on
the Boulder river, about twenty-five miles from Big Tim-
ber. This is well worthy of a greater pilgrimage than it
receives. The Boulder is here a dashing mountain stream
about fifty feet wide. It disappears in an immense whirl-
pool into the limestone rock, and flows in a subterranean
channel for about 300 feet. The lower end of the tunnel
opens out on the face of a perpendicular wall of solid rock
which is 150 feet high. The river bursts forth from the tun-
nel at a height of about forty feet from the bottom of a pre-
cipice, and falls into a large rock basin, from which it dis-
appears again in the rock and runs in its hidden course for a
distance of quarter of a mile. During high water the tunnel
is not large enough to receive the whole river, and the
overflow passes in a channel worn in the surface of the
rock, dashing over the brink of the precipice at the same
time that the lower portion is bursting out of the tunnel
part way down the cliff. In the bottom of the upper bed,
which was dry at the time of our visit, we discovered an
opening into a cavern in the limestone. By the aid of
two picket ropes we descended into the cavern and
found it to be of considerable size. At flood times the
water evidently passes through this cavern also.
■PVWPW^ --i^ "» -^-^ «|i— ^w^i ■!■■ iL ^■■^^B^y»i^!''--^^^^i^inpwf>y
210 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
m
From the Natural Bridge we proceeded up the Boulder
along what had been described to us as ** a good wagon
road." We had to walk, however, a considerable part of
the distance, as the horses were unable to make their way
over the rocks with a rider. Supper had to be cooked and
eaten that evening in a dashing rainstorm. Our baking
powder biscuits were thoroughly soaked and we had to dip
them in a sort of emulsified bacon grease. But a mount-
ain appetite is not easily disturbed.
We were now skirting the mountains which surround
the Lake Park region, and we purposed entering this
country by the first practicable pass. We broke camp early
in the morning and proceeded up the beautiful, heavily-
wooded canon of the Boulder. An old prospector, with a
flint-lock rifle, informed us that he had seen three bears in
a huckleberry patch a few miles up the river, but had not
cared to attack them with a flintlock. After riding for
about an hour we suddenly caught sight of the ears of a
bear above the huckleberry bushes. We finally succeeded
in killing all three bears, the whole affair occupying not
more than two minutes. We found that we had fired
something more than fifty shots, and that the two boys of
the party had killed all the bears. The rest of the party,
however, had demonstrated the great penetrating power of
steel- jacketed bullets in various trees. This episode not only
gave us bear skulls and skins as trophies, but some fine
bear steak which proved a very acceptable variation from
bacon. The old female was of a deep black color, while
one of the cubs was black and the other brown. Both cubs
were males.
Thus far we had been following the middle fork of the
Boulder. We now took a trail which led up one of the
branches, and camped in a beautiful basin at an altitude
of about 8,500 feet. The next day being Sunday, we gave
the horses a needed rest and climbed a peak 11,000 feet in
height. Here, for the first time in our trip, we found
everlasting snowbanks. The Alpine plants and insects of
this peak were very interesting and of great variety.
We made a full collection of the plants, among which
there proved to be twenty species new to science. Later in
the day we descended the peak and traveled over a pass
into the Lake Park country. This is essentially a plateau,
9,000 to 10,000 feet high and for the most part well covered
with grass. One of the most attractive features of this
region is the abundance of small lakes with clear cold
water and plenty of fine trout. There were also fresh
signs of mountain sheep, deer and elk.
Our next march took us along Slough Creek, and we
A ViSfT TO THE HOODOOS OF WYOMING. 213
camped at Lake Abundance, near Cook City. Plenty of
good trout were to be had in the lake and some rather
tough ducks, but almost any fresh meat was agreeable for
the sake of variety.
From Lake Abundance we crossed the divide and went
down Clark's Pork. This, like all mountain streams in
the region, furnished ideal conditions for trout ; but there
are no fish in the river or any of its branches above the
falls, which are located at the point where Dead Indian
and Sunlight Creeks unite with the main fork.
We traveled two days down this stream and at last
reached the falls. The three rivers which unite at this
point all run in canons cut in the solid rock to a depth of
about 400 feet. Near Cook City, and upon the south side
of Clark's Fork, are located two high peaks of magnificent
appearance, separated by a deep abrupt chasm, but consti-
tuting a sort of twin mountain. They are called Pilot and
Index Peaks ; their tops seemed inaccessible.
Finding the Sunlight Creek to the Hoodoos too difficult,
we went back to Crandall Creek and camped near the spot
where Crandall and his companions were treacherously shot
by Indians. After photographing two or three supposed
graves of Crandall, we finally found the real one and piled
several stones upon the grave to mark the place.
We had supposed that from this camp we could reach the
Hoodoo plateau in one long march ; since it was only about
twenty miles, as we estimated by the geological survey
maps, though the trail was a difficult one. But it took us
four days of hard work to reach our main objective point.
Saturday morning we started early, to reach the Hoodoos
the same afternoon. Upon breaking camp, the bear skins
were packed on the mule for the first time. As soon as she
sniffed the peculiar odor of bear at such close quarters, she
attempted to get awa}*^ from her imagined enemy, but we
overtook her about four miles from camp. We proceeded
up the main fork of Crandall Creek. The valley grew nar-
rower, until we entered a canon and were forced to ride in
the creek ; and after another mile we came to impassable
cascades with perpendicular walls on either side ; so we
were forced to go back to our previous camp. After a
reconnaissance we climbed the ridge on the south side of
the south fork of Crandall Creek and followed it all day.
This is the historic trail down which the Nez Perces came
when they succeeded in eluding the United States troops at
the canon of Clark's Fork. At five in the afternoon of the
third day we arrived on the brink of the canon of Hoodoo
Creek ; across which, about five miles distant, the Hoodoo
plateau was plainly in view. We found that we must
Hoodoo Coluhh. 200 Fbkt Hiqh.
A VISIT TO THE HOODOOS OF WYOMING. 217
descend 1,500 feet and climb an equal height on the op-
posite side to reach the plateau. The sides of the canon
were so steep that several hours' hard work with pick and
shovel was necessary before we could get the animals down.
The following" morning we descended a zigzag course, and,
leading the horses and also holding on to their tails, took
them safely down one by one. Then came the climb on
the opposite side, which was the most difiScult one of the
whole trip. We had to make steps in a snow bank in order
to cross it, and even where there was no snow, we had to
rest every few steps. The guide and the writer were the
first to reach the plateau. Our camp on the plateau was
at an elevation of 10,300 feet. We shot an old blue grouse
cock here but at such an altitude it was impossible to boil,
fry, or otherwise reduce the flesh to an eatable degree of
tenderness. Soon after our arrival on the plateau a thunder-
storm burst upon us with terrific fury just as we sat down
to supper. The course of the flashes of lightning was
hprizontal.
It is perhaps impossible adequately to describe the
Hoodoos. It was remarked by several of the party that
the Hoodoo Basin contains more of interest than the Yel-
lowstone Park. Hoodoo Peak, which rises to an elevation
of nearly 12,000 feet, is located at the northwest corner of
the plateau. From its top one can see, away to the north,
the Granite or Beartooth Mountains, with Granite Peak
rising to a height of 12,800 feet, the highest point in Mon-
tana, and with immense snowfields and small glaciers even
on the southern exposure. To the southeast the horizon is
formed by one of the most magnificent ranges of the Ab-
saroka system, while far to the south the Tetons present
an imposing spectacle with their chief peak, the Grand
Teton, reaching a height of 14,800 feet. The main Hoodoo
basin is located in an immense canon on the south side of
Hoodoo Peak. The most interesting group of Hoodoos,
however, the group which apparently was not visited by
the Geological Survey parties, is to be found on the south-
east and east slopes of the peak, and is about three miles
distant from the main Hoodoo Basin.
The whole region is of volcanic origin, being largely
composed of basic breccia. The softer parts are readily
eroded and carried away by the water, while the hard parts
remain standing in the form of *' Hoodoos" of all sizes and
of every conceivable shape. It requires no imagination to
see chickens, cathedrals, towers, palaces, camels, goats,
men and women, done in breccia. The figures vary in size
from the merest hummocks to columns of 200 feet in height.
One group was particularly striking and lifelike — of a
VISIT TO THE HOODOOS OF WYOMING.
Tub aooDoo Chief and Ui9 Habbm. Pboto. b; F. W. Tra
number of large columns, of which one stood apart from
the rest. Upon the main group were mounted several female
figures in most fantastic drapery. On the isolated column
was an immense bust of a man about fifty feet in height.
His giant arm was extended and the clenched fist rested
A VISIT TO THE HOODOOS OF WYOMING. 221
Upon the column. He had upon his head a twisted turban
and wore a most grotesque solemn expression. There were
no commandments on stone tablets, but the gentleman was
evidently laying down the law to his assembled harem, and
he was named, accordingly, the ** Hoodoo Chief." We had
great expectations of the Hoodoos and were agreeably sur-
prised. They were far more interesting than we had
imagined.
As from the Hoodoo plateau we searched the distant snow-
fields of the Granite Mountains with our field-glasses,
regret was felt that we had not made a side trip to the
Grasshopper Glacier of that region. This glacier is not of
great size, but is especially interesting from the fact that
it contains tons of grasshoppers frozen into the ice far
below the surface. They are probably the Rocky Mountain
locust, but they crumble so rapidly on being exposed to the
air that the species could not be determined from specimens
brought by the party which visited the glacier. Photo-
graphs of the glacier show that the grasshoppers are im-
bedded in two strata of the ice.
On leaving the Hoodoos, the expedition passed down
Miller Creek and Lamar River into the Yellowstone Park*
We stopped on Cache Creek near Death Gulch, visited Soda
Butte, and spent some time on Amethyst Creek and in the
Fossil Forest. One camp was made at Tower Falls, and
on the way we received at Yancey's our first mail from
home.
One day's journey along the canon of the Yellowstone
brought us to the lower falls, and here we were surprised
to find ourselves under arrest by order of the military
authorities of the Park. On the day of our march from
Tower Falls to the Great Falls of the Yellowstone, two
armed highwaymen had held up six stage-coaches on the
road from the Canon Hotel to Norris Basin and robbed the
passengers. Naturally we knew nothing of the affair,
having come from the opposite direction. During this
day's journey our party had become separated. In crossing
a boggy meadow, alone, my horse broke through the sod
and broke a strap by which my gun was slung to the
saddle. At this moment I saw two men slowly riding out
of the woods. I supposed them to be the professor and the
doctor, who had not been seen since morning, and imme-
diately shouted ; whereupon the men wheeled their horses
and disappeared in the forest. I dismounted, took my gun
from the case, readjusted the case, and after leading my
horse across the meadow, rode on more rapidly in order to
overtake the guide.
This little episode had unexpected developments. It
J
222 LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
seems that the two riders were the hig^hwaymen. A mes-
senger had been sent to summon troops and was riding on
the trail along the side of the meadow when I shouted.
He did not see the horsemen, and supposed I was shouting
at him. His mind was full of the recent robbery ; and
when 1 took my gun from its case he concluded that I was
about to try a shot at him. So he put spurs to his horse
and rode at his best speed for three miles, when he met the
soldiers and informed them that he had barely escaped be-
ing shot by one of the robbers. When the soldiers arrived
at the Canon hotel, they found us boldly enccimped near
the river, nine men strong and eighteen horses. We were
at once directed not to break camp pending further orders
from the superintendent of the park. We were kept under
military arrest for nearly thirty-six hours after the super-
intendent knew who we were, and for reasons which we
were quite unable to discover. The soldiers seemed to
know nothing of the park except the regular wagon road
over which tourists are taken. We were told that every
possible exit from the park was guarded, but when we said
we intended to leave the park by the Bannock Pass, the
sergeant confessed that he did not know its location.
As we rode over this pass we found a fresh, well beaten
elk track, and on the Gallatin side of the pass at the foot
of Three Rivers Peak, saw a band of about 150 elk. From
Three Rivers Peak to Bozeman we traveled more rapidly,
covering the whole distance in three days and riding fifty
miles on the third day. Thus we may briefly describe our
route as eastward along the whole northern boundary of
the park, southward to the Hoodoos, and westward through
the park, returning by the Gallatin Canon. The trip occu-
pied us for twenty-five days, and we traveled over 500
miles of mountainous country.
From a botanical standpoint I never saw a richer country.
On the Hoodoo plateau there are to be found in August
not only a great variety of alpine plants in full bloom, but
also such plants as Dodecatheon and Claytonia, which at
lower altitudes are among the earliest spring flowers.
Upon this plateau it freezes every night. While we were
there a half inch of ice formed during the night. All the
plants here are frozen so that they may be broken off in
the early morning, and the ice rattles off from them upon
one's boots. The fringed gentian may be frozen so rigidly
that the petals can be broken in the fingers. As soon as the
sun appears, however, the plants thaw out and are un-
injured.
In the mud near the edges of the snow banks, buttercups
and calthas grow in great abundance. These plants also
SOME INDIAN PAINTINGS. 223
force their way through the snow, and it is not an uncom-
mon thing to see them flaunting their gay flowers above
the surface of the snow.
The Hoodoos may be approached either from the Yellow-
stone Park or from Crandall Creek, and for the geologist,
zoologist, botanist, photographer or tourist, the region
presents attractions which are seldom equalled.
tJ. S. Dept, of Aaricpllort. WiahiuBlon, D. C.
Some Indian Paintings.
S the vicinity of Santa Barbara,
[ng the adjacent islands, sustained
ier population of aborigines than
;ality else in all California. With
>st perfect of climate, and sea and
urnishing an abundance of food at
imum of labor, it is not strange
that the Indians congregated here in
large numbers; and several of the earliest "sources"
state that here they were thickest. The ethnologist and
archsologist have found here a rich field ; and tons of
artifects of a prehistoric people have been unearthed from
the ancient burying grounds and elsewhere and sent to the
Smithsonian Institution, not to mention a number of fine
private collections. Those not particularly interested
somehow found themselves in possession of mortars and
pestles, metales, baskets, wampum, etc., until not many
homes in Santa Barbara were without at least a few of
these relics of a vanished race.
If one did not care to do his collecting, he had no diffi-
culty in buying at reasonable rates ; for these articles were
too plentiful to be particularly valued except by a scien-
tific few ; but one day it was discovered that, barring the
collections of these few, the relics, once to be picked up
anywhere, had suddenly disappeared. They had been
quietly bought up at a low figure until it was realized
the town was almost swept clean of the stone imple-
ments and other curios, that went to swell the showing at
the World's Fair. As the country had already been pretty
well gleaned they have not again accumulated to any large
extent.
There still remain, however, presumably because they
cannot be carried off, examples of "picture-writing" on
the rocks about Santa Barbara Several, being exposed to
the elements, are almost obliterated ; others are within
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
caves and are so well protected that the colors are as
bright as if but recently applied.
The most notable one is that known as " Painted Cave,"
fourteen or fifteen miles northwest of Santa Barbara, near
the summit of the Santa Ynez mountains and east of the
San Marcos pass. It is located on an old Indian trail. As
there is a good spring near by, it is probable it was once a
camping place. Formerly there was no way of reaching-
it except by trail, and it was rarely seen ; but since settlers
have located in the vicinity and opened a road it is easier
of access, and the disfiguring of the painting by writing
and cutting names and shipping ofE pieces of the rock.
SOME INDIAN PAINTINGS.
show tbat now it not only has visitors but that it will soon
be sacrificed to the idiotic mania afflicting so many people
who oufht to know better.
This cave was first scientifically reported, I believe, by
Dr. W. J. Hoffman, of the Bureau of Ethnology, who
visited it in 1883 and made an incomplete drawing of the
paintings.
The cavity containing the pictographs is in a huge
block of sandstone, perhaps 30 or 40 feet high, that might
have been set with a plummet into the side of the mount-
ain, the road passing immediately at its base. A few feet
226 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Up the steep mountain side the opening^ is reached. The
interior is somewhat larger than the entrance, measuring:
twelve or fifteen feet across and about eight feet high.
The floor inclines rapidly toward the back and there is
a sort of ledge on the left side, but otherwise the walls and
ceiling are nicely arched.
The larger painting, which is at the right of the en-
trance, is on a convex surface and extends upward until the
top is almost overhead, though the illustration does not
show this — owing to the position in which it was necessary
Ehtiahce to Cave.
to place the camera. The central figures appear smaller
because of their further distance from the lens.
The other painting — there are two — ^is on the opposite
side near the back of the cave, and while it covers much
less space and has fewer figures, they are larger and
perhaps better defined than in the more pretentious one.
The colors, red, white, yellow and black, are as fresh and
bright as though recently laid on. It is said to be one of
the best, if not the best, preserved picture-writings on the
Pacific Coast. Yet what it tells no man knoweth.
The most interesting figures are the two on the extreme
left of the larger group. One is a primitive representation
SOME INDIAN PAINTINGS. 227
of an Indian chief, with two dots for eyes and four feathers
in his headdress. The black and white horizontal stripes
back of him evidently represent his blanket. The other
figure is immediately beneath it and is exactly the same
except that it is headless. There is a tradition that the
Santa Barbara Indians and the Santa Ynez Indians met
here and made a treaty, of which the cave painting is a
record. Could it be that the second figure suggests the
chief that breaks the treaty ? Or, as some tribes represent
death by this method, could it be intended to perpetuate
the memory of one of their number who died or was killed
on some memorable expedition ? A figure not unlike these
two is also prominent in the smaller group. There are va-
rious circular designs, maltese crosses, snake-like mark-
ings, parallel lines, a cross-barred pattern, tree-forms,
something resembling a centipede, insects, etc. Some of
the lines are etched in the rock and then painted, and the
whole is partly enclosed by a narrow border of alternating
squares.
Dr. Hoffman, after seeing some illustrations in a Mexi-
can ethnological collection, concluded that the circular fig-
ures with crossed lines may indicate bales of blankets,
which were an article of trade at the Santa Barbara Mis-
sion, the lines showing the cords with which they were
tied. The human forms portray the traders, those with
the horizontal bands being represented as lying flat on
their zarapes. Some of the smaller bales show projecting
lines at the edges, supposed to be the knots, or ends of
cords. Along the lower edge of the painting is what ap-
pears to be a horse, with a bale on his back, led by a man,
and there are such other figures as caused Dr. Hoffman to
think it likely that it is a record of a trading expedition
from the north.
While this seems probable, if correct it brings the time
of painting within a comparatively recent period, as it is
but a little over a -hundred years since the mission was es-
tablished, and trading could hardly have begun until
some time later, in which case it is the more remark-
able that no definite knowledge of it is obtainable.
Since the best that can be gathered is only conjecture,
may it not, after all, be only the expression of the artistic
sense of some untutored child of nature, who painted for
the mere love of it such figures as pleased his fancy, with
no thought of how savants in future years would puzzle
their brains trying to unravel their supposed mysteriotia
meaning ?
Saota Barbara, Cal.
The Island of the Good Herb
N the north side of Yerba Buena Island in
San Francisco bay is a tiny spring. The
water runs out of a bank hung with black-
t)erry vines and wild ivy. It trickles along
through little green mosses and dead brown
leaves, and falls into a round stone well.
Trees cling to the side of the hill and almost
shut out the sky ; elder and oak and long,
slim laurel. Ferns run about the roots, and
^^ tiny green things that almost have no name.
About fifty feet down the bank the water of the bay runs
in on the rocks. It shines in the sun and sings a little
song of its own. It is very pretty, but it is not the only
pretty spot on the island of Yerba Buena. The north side
from end to end is one great thicket. There are
stretches of white oak and elder, live oak and willow, or-
chards of wild cherry and plum, and tangles of vines.
There are little canons filled with fern, and tiny valleys
where the fairies might sleep. There is no glimpse of the
water nor the hills beyond. There is no sound of life, no
sight of the ships on the sea, nor the great city beyond.
It is deep in the heart of nature. A black butterfly has
been idling about. There is a bird singing somewhere.
A faint breath of wind is drifting among the trees.
THE ISLAND OF THt. GOOD HERB.
It is nature triumphant, nature neglected. It is the
island of Yerba Bueaa. Few people know anything about
it. The few who land on it look at the light and the fog
horn and go down to the buoy station. They walk around
the new training school and take the tug back to the city.
They know absolutely nothing of the island's history, or of
its topography, or of anything else, except that the light
is lit every night and the fog horn blows when it's foggy.
On the east side of the island are three graves. One of
them is that of D. R. A. Dowling, a son of Thomas Dow-
ling, a claimant of the island.
There are many old pioneers who remember the fortunes
■of the Dowlings of Yerba Buena. Thomas Dowling, the
head of the family, came to California in 1848 and pur-
2^(1 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
chased Yerba Bueoa Island from the Mexican gfrantee,
probably one of the Castros. He built his home on the
east side of the island, raised a family, and passed his time
profitably quarrying sandstone and bluestone. In the late
60's the government disputed Dowling's claim to the island
and with little ceremony ejected him from his home. Dow-
ling went to Washington to fight the government, but died
there disappointed in '72. Dowling was not the only
claimant of Yerba Buena. Before him was Pollack, and
the more noted Limantour, who claimed not only Yerba
Buena but also Alcatraz, the Farallones, Point Tiburon.
PliolD. by H. S. Kirk.
and all the land in San Francisco south of California,
street, and five additional grants aggregating nearly a
million acres. Limantour claimed the land in return for
aid given the government. The claim created a sensation
at the time, but it finally came to nothing. Next to the
Dowling grave is a broken headstone lying flat on the
ground. It is green and brown with age. At the top is a.
willow tree carefully carved. It records the death of E. R.
and &. F. Lindsey, one of whom died in 1S42, and the
other thirteen years later. The Lindseys were employes
of the Dowlings.
Before the white man came from the south the island wa&
THE ISLAND OF THE GOOD HERB.
E&ST Side of Ybrba Bcbka. Photo, by H. R. Kirk.
the home of a tribe of Indians. They had their village on the
mesa where the training school stands, and further up on
the side of the hill their burying ground. Relics have been
excavated at odd times ; mortars and pestles, bones, skulls
and skeletons. A frame of a man was found measuring
six feet six inches. An odd find was that of a skull with a
bit of abalone shell fastened in the mouth — presumably to
hold down the tongue. Some have claimed the skull was
that of a woman. A stone hammer has been found on the
island, and a rude sling ; but nothing to indicate any
special virtue on the part of the natives. Some years ago
a stone was found on the top of the island bearing the im-
print of a cloven hoof. It is supposed to have been put
232 LAND OF SUNSH/NE.
there some way or other by an animal now extinct. I was
told the devil might have had a foot in it, but it's possible
enoug^h he didn't. The stone is now in the State Mining:
Bureau Museum.
After the Civil War the gfovernment established a gar-
rison on the island, but it was removed a few years later to
Angel Island. A buoy station was built, and a magazine
at the north end of the island. That was all the official
attention Yerba Buena received until the recent commence-
ment of the training school. The railroad has had eyes on
the island ever since it crossed the plains. There has been
more or less talk of the island becoming a railroad ter-
minus from the early '60's down to a few years ago.
The light was built in '75. It is one of the smallest on
the coast, possessing only 400 candle power. The lamp
itself is little larger than those in ordinary table use.
Down on the wharf, at the buoy station, where the big
anchor chains lie side by side, and the great red buoys look
like pumpkins from the ferry boats, is one of the largest
whistling buoys on the coast. It is an immense thing,
topped with a long yellow whistle. For many years it
rode the waves at the entrance of the harbor. It was on
the site of the buoy station that the Dowling home was
situated. Traces may still be seen of the quarry. The
earth has been blown away from the side of the island,
leaving bare great ledges of rock. Blasting was carried
on also along the south side of the island.
Yerba Buena covers 540 acres, and its highest altitude is
340 feet. Its vegetation is varied, and on the north side
riotous enough for any valley in any part of California.
There are several varieties of oak, elderberry, California
holly, wild cherry and wild plum. There are acres of wild
gooseberry and blackberry, and, almost all over the island,
fern in profusion. There are abundant wild flowers —
poppies, buttercups, and fleur-de-lis. But the Yerba
Buena, '*the good herb," is gone. There is not a trace of
it on the island. There are bees and butterflies and
birds, orioles and owls, singing sparrows and humming
birds. Quail run through the brush, and great black
crows caw clumsily in the dead trees. There are bluejays
and buzzards and hawks and sea gulls to be sure, and
now and then a sight of an eagle. There have been few
wild animals on the island since the day of the unknown
monster with the cloven hoof. Zoology is about confined
to the ancient goat which roams at leisure about the bluff
near the magazine. The animal is about twenty years old
and is the sole surviving descendant of the herd of goats
that gave a name to the island. The goats were raised by
THE ISLAND OF THE GOOD HERB. 233
a man called Barnacle Bill, who was government custodian
of the island after the removal of the g^arrison. Bill died
seven years ago in the poor-house. The goats were sold to
the butcher and shot as occasion required, all but two, one
of whom died a violent death, it is said, but his head still
remains carefully stuffed and mounted on a smooth brown
board. The other William remains haughtily on his
end of the island where he will nibble unmolested until
called to his fathers.
Light-keeper Weiss, an entertaining talker, and a man
of much good nature, has interested himself in the history
and general affairs of the island to a degree unusual in
government officials. He has acquainted himself with the
geology of the place, the flora and the fauna, and every-
thing else connected with it. He has even gone so far as
to enter something in the records in addition to the state
of the weather — a custom little favored by his prede-
cessors.
The view from the top of the topmost hill is the glory of
Yerba Buena. The best time to see it is after the spring
rains. The air is clear and the sky is blue and the fog is
as dead as the winter. The Golden Gate is directly west,
the Presidio and Fort Point on one side and Point Bonita
distinctly visible on the other. The white houses of Lime
Point stretch down to the water, and further along Sausa-
lito looks out between the trees. The Marin mountains
stand dimly purple, and over it all rises Tamalpais. Bel-
vedere is to the right, and San Quentin, the San Rafael
hills and the black and blue mountains of the Contra Costa
with fluffy white clouds rising over them. Low rolling
hills stretch on to Carquines, pass Point Pinole, Point
Richmond and San Pablo, and run up over Berkeley exult-
ingly, shutting out the world beyond save the tip of Diablo.
Oakland lies in the sun with her head in the hills. Ala-
meda is further along, and Bay Farm Island. The moun-
tains fade in a faint light and in the distance join the
hills of Santa Clara and the mountains of San Mateo and
run joyously along until they fall at the feet of San Fran-
cisco.
Alcatraz stands in the water like the Castle of Chillon,
and next to it Angel Island, which the Spanish called Isla
de la Angel Custodia. The Brothers light is faintly visi-
ble, and the rocks of the Sisters ; and to the right. Red
Rock or Molate Island, as it was formerly known. There
are ships of all countries lying in the water, some with white
sails and some with no sails at all. There are Italian
fishing boats rocking idly about, and a Chinese junk be-
yond the Iowa, near the French war vessel. The ferries
234 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
lumber heavily along, the paddles of the river steamers
shine in the sun, and along the docks a transport or two
goin^ out to sea, to the song of the siren.
In 1769, Visitador Galvez told Father Junipero that if
Saint Francis wanted a port and a mission he might show
the way. It is easy to think some inspiration led Father
Crespi and Pedro Fages, and Rivera y Moncada up the
long dreary coast and over the hills to the great water that
had been unknown to the outside earth since the dawn of
creation. Some idea greater than that of man filled their
hearts and their souls, and carried them on to the opening
of a new world, to the port of the Hesperides, the bay of
the great Saint Francis and the Island of the Good Herb.
stylists. His Knglish was remarkably
clear, simple and competent ; his judgment of men and
policies so accurate that he was widely trusted ; his
' facts" so carefully verified as used to be essential in
newspapering ; and his point of view broad. He was one
of the best-believed "Washington correspondents" this
IN WESTERN LETTERS. 235
country ever had ; and in
that capacity and as trav-
eling correspondent of the
New York Herald had a
rare reputation. He was
also for many years the
right-hand man of Wil-
liam Cullen Bryant in the
New York Evening Post.
One reason why Mr.
N o r d h o ff was marked
among journalists was
that he was better educa-
ted than most of them.
Thousands of them had
more instruction ; but he
went through the real ed-
ucing process. His
school advantages were cha^lks nobdhoii'.
very limited — before he was 13 he had plunged into
the working world. At 14 he left his place as a compositor
and went to sea. For nine 3'ears he was a sailor before
the mast, in the navy for three years, and then in the
merchant, whaling and fishing fleets, circumnavigating
the globe and learning from his bumps. At 24 he resumed
the shore, and was by turns many kinds of workingman —
compositor, farmer and so on. It was only " very slowly
and hardly," as he has said, that he rose to be proofreader,
reporter, and finally ripe journ-
alist. From 1857 to 1861 he
held an editorial position with
the Harpers. From 18(il to
1871 he was with the New York
Efenitig Post ; then visited
California and the Hawai-
ian Islands; and from 1874
was the correspondent of the
New York Me ra Id, which
pensioned him generously in
his age In 1890 he retired
from active work and settled in
California, living quietl}'
and wisely at Coronado. He
died July 14, 1901, at the age
of 71 — having been born at
Westphalia, Prussia, in 1830,
and coming to the United
FiiHKn scHiiiTT. States at five j-ears old.
CopjrIshI by Gen. L. Wllcni.
IN WESTERN LETTERS. 237
Among: his books were — Man^/- War^s Life, Nine Tears a
Sailor^ The Merchant Vessel^ Whaling and Fishing Stories;
several yolumes based on his travels in the South during?
Reconstruction, Politics for Tbung America^ and so on.
But in all probability his most important work — and cer-
tainly that for which the West best knows and will longest
remember him — was his series of Herald letters, collected
into book form a quarter of a century ago, introducing
California to the American public as a livable country.
Someone has called him ^'the first California boomer,"
and while Bayard Taylor, Walter Colton, Lieut. Revere
and other able men long before him had done handsomely,
it is literally true that Nordhoff was the first man to give
an adequate idea of the superiority of California as a home.
Out of date, now, and based upon economic , conditions
which have greatly changed, his book was nevertheless the
most effective that has ever yet been written in its actual
results upon immigration to the Pacific Coast. He was not
always right in his prophecies ; but since he began, more
than a million people have indorsed his rare sagacity
in seeing the vital truth that there is no other such place
to dwell in.
To this man who has gone, California owes a far larger
debt than half its new-come people realize; and not alone
for his material apostleship, but as well for the example of
a brave, clean, competent, unspoiled and serene life.
It was a serious blow to Western research when that fine
and gentle spirit, Rev. Edmond J. P Schmitt, Catholic
priest and true historical student, was taken from the
slender ranks of them that love the truth enough to seek
it. Father Schmitt was only 36, but already one of the
most important workers in the field of Southwestern his-
tory. His activities were principally in Texas, and the
State University, which thus far leads all Western institu-
tions in the vitality and scope of its local historical re-
search, has lost a most efficient ally. Father Schmitt was
born March 16, 1865, at New Albany, Ind. ; was ordained
to the priesthood May 31, 1890 ; and died May 5, 1901, at
San Antonio, Texas, of consumption.
*
* *
Charles A. Keeler and Louise M. Keeler have returned
to their Berkeley home from an eleven months' seafaring
in the South Seas, with serious wayside tarryin^s in
Samoa, New Zealand, Auckland and other points ; rich in
material artistic, traditionary and literary. The sumptuous
two-volume book of the Harriman outing to Alaska con-
238 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
tains an article by Mr. Keeler, and many of his wife's ex-
quisite pen-and-ink drawins^s.
By some sweet inspiration of the printer the portrait of
Francis Granger Browne, now manager of the publishing de-
partment of A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago, was labeled with
the name of his father, Francis Fisher Browne, editor of
the Dial. Of the elder Browne, a portrait and some conti-
nent comment may be found in this magazine for April,
1900.
Will M. Tipton, the foremost Spanish student and pale-
ographer in the United States ; the man who, as special
expert of the Court of Private Land Claims, defeated the
twelve-million-acre land-steal famous as the Peralta grant
— and his account (in this magazine for February and
March, 1898) of that most romantic and most colossal
swindle ever attempted upon the government made a deep
impression — is now in Manila, where he holds an important
position under the civil government. It is well to give our
subjects such men to model their destinies ; but scholars
have a feeling that our own country cannot spare them.
It is not the only case in point. The greatest genius we
have yet produced in the history, archaeology and ethnology
of the Southwest and of Spanish- America in general ; the
chiefest of our documentary authorities, the foremost of
our field students, the man now recognized as our court of
last appeal in these matters — he also is buried in a heathen
land. That, of course, is Bandelier. A letter from him
a few days ago — the first to get through in over a year —
tells me that he is still mewed up in Bolivia. His plans to
return to the United States last year (see these pages for
July and August, 1900) were cruelly frustrated. He is
still, I presume, working for a pittance for an American
museum — as he was when we parted eight years ago, and
as such men are glad to do if only the work be done. He
has written, I know, the most important book yet written
on South America from the scientific standpoint — and five
years ago. I have been waiting with some patience for his
museum to publish it. I am still waiting. His life among
the cannibals and chunckos^ with his wife who is one of the
most beautiful and most talented women I have ever seen,
would discount Stanley if the Stanley standards were there
to '^make much*' of these things; but the book he could
write, and did — the book which for South America would
JOSEPH L£ CONTE. 2»
be what his Arckaological lour is for Mexico, what his
Historical Contributions and Final Report are to South-
western history — that is smothered somewhere.
Now there is only one fit place for two such njen — if we
care for a scholarship at all. Both should be filling: chairs
in some American university ; their bread and butter safe,
their more important leisure assured for the safeguarding
in type of what they have learned ; their present energies
harnessed to perhaps the most important work any Ameri-
canist can now do — the enlisting of fit recruits to pursue
Western American history and ethnology before it shall be
too late. Both these are Men ; not only ripe but alive.
In an unusual sort, they are men who would kindle young
Americans to the most fascinating and the most neglected
field an American student can choose withal — the real
study of Americana. In the almost unknown University
of Texas, the personal zeal and faith of Dr. Geo. P. Gar-
rison have rallied a band of 350 young men and women to
the study of our Western history. That is a type of what
can be done — it is a nudge of what is entitled to be done —
in every Western university. Let us know what we can of
Greece and Rome and Nineveh, but let us not be all snobs.
Let usescape at least part of our beastly ignorance about our
own country — which is more interesting. And the way to
begin is to begin with born leaders and trained ones — not
with Chautauqua intellects enabled by an endowment.
The university which will secure these two quiet but proved
men can lead American universities in the Spanish lan-
guage and in the early history of America. And there are
some who already perceive that these things are worth
while. C. F. L.
kJosbph Le Conte.
was in the Yosemite, with requiem of
pines and waterfalls, that Joseph Le
Conte lay down to his last sleep. The
glorious mountain cathedral, lacking in
the past only in human associations, is
consecrated henceforth by the abiding
memory of this great, good man, loving
and true and wise.
The scientists remember Joseph Le Conte as the investi-
gator of at>struse problems in optics, mountain-building,
earth-crust movement, the birth of metal-bearing veins,
240 LAND OF SUNSHINL.
the growth of coral-reefs, the life and death of glaciers.
The world at large knows him best as an author and
teacher wonderfully gifted in popularizing and yet digni-
fying science, and as the philosopher who more than any
other American made the theory of evolution an integral
part of every intelligent man's consciousness, and showed
the world withal that one may worship God devoutly, and
yet seek fearlessly for truth. But it is as a man, pure,
hopeful, unselfish, vowed to the search for wisdom, soul of
honor and charity and sympathy and good cheer, that he
will be remembered by the innumerable company who
knew him as master and as friend.
On July 6, 1901, the day of his death. Dr. Le Conte was
78 years old. Until within a few hours of his demise his
physical strength was marvelously preserved. To the last
his mental power was unabated. The Comparative Mor-
fhology^ the as yet unpublished autobiography, were writ-
ten only shortly before his end. He was already 45, and
still comparatively unknown, when, in 1868, he came to
Berkeley to accept the chair which he filled until his death,
that of Professor of Geology and Natural History in the
University of California ; and it was in California, after
his forty-fifth year, that his best work was done. The un-
usual diversity of his earlier experiences, studies and
activities was one of the causes of the breadth and rich-
ness of the synthesizing scholarship which in his old age
made him famous.
Of mingled Huguenot and English Puritan descent, and
the son of a scholarly Southern gentleman, Joseph Le
Conte was born February 26, 1823, on his father's planta-
tion in Liberty county, Georgia. As a boy he hunted,
fished, rode and swam ; as a young man he was an all-
round athlete. Thus he built up the strength which even
in his age made men marvel at his mountain-climbing
feats. In \^\ he received the degree of A.B. from
Franklin College, the University of Georgia ; in 1845 that
of M.D. from the College of Physicians and Surgeons in
New York.
Five years of successful practice of medicine in Macon,
Georgia, brought to Dr. Le Conte dissatisfaction with the
unscientific quality of the art as then practiced. With his
wife, Carolinie Elizabeth Nisbet Le Conte, whom he had
married in 1847 at Midway, Georgia, he went to Cambridge,
Mass., to study with Louis Agassiz. From Harvard he
received, in 1851, the degree of B.S. After an expedition
with Agassiz to the Florida reefs and keys, Dr. Le Conte
went to Oglethorpe University as Professor of Natural
Science, and thence, in 1852, to the University of Georgia
JOSEPH LE CONTE. 241
as Professor of Geology and Natural History. In 1855 he
became Professor of Greology in South Carolina College.
The war came on, and the college succumbed. Feeling
that he must devote his scientific knowledge to the cause
that absorbed the hearts of all, he became chemist of an
army manufactory, in which were compounded all the
medicines used in the Confederate States.
In the dark days of reconstruction, when poverty, de-
feat, and the rule of the negroes made South Carolina seem
unendurable. Dr. Le Conte came near to emigrating to
Brazil or Mexico. But in California, distant land of prom-
ise, there opened hope. To the Pacific he came, with his
famous brother, John Le Conte, who was to win new
honors as a physician, and as President of the University
of California, whose organization and early policy he did
much to shape.
California, because of the blessed peace it brought after
the horrors of the war, because of its virgin fields for
scientific research, and because of the inspiration in its
novel social conditions, stimulated Dr. Le Conte to the
highest intellectual activity. His scholarly creed, worked
out in deeds, was that unless a university man is continu-
ally pushing out into new fields of truth, his power to
teach decays, and, further, that if his investigations are
to be worth while, he must put the results in permanent
form, and seek for a place in the worldwide family of pro-
ducing scholars.
In his chief scientific books, Si^ht^ The Elements of
Geology^ A Compend of Geology^ Religion and Science^
Evolution and its Relation to Religious Thought^ The Com-
parative Physiology and Morphology of Animals^ and in
hundreds of papers in the scientific journals and in the
publications of learned societies. Dr. Le Conte made rich
contributions to the world's knowledge of geology, pale-
ontology, mineralogy, botany, zoology, medicine, physics,
chemistry, and general scientific theory. With this went
noble service to philosophy, to ethics, to literature, to
education, to religion.
His worth was richly honored at home as abroad. All
California knew and loved him. The students among
whom he lived, keen and just in their estimates of men,
thronged his lecture room, knew him as best of all com-
panions by a campfire in the high Sierras, spoke only good
of him, and with the recurring year sent always birthday
tokens of affection. His fellow-scientists chose him as
president of the International Greological Congress, and as
president of the Geological Society of America, and of the
American Association for the Advancement of Science ;
242 LAND OF SUNSHINL.
Geor£:ia and Princeton bestowed upon him the de^ee of
LL.D., and in foreign lands he was an honored and a wel-
come ffuest of the world's wisest and best.
Amid all the unremitting toil of his long and varied and
active life, he was never too busy to help a fellow-student,
to listen to other men's interests, to cheer and counsel and
sympathize, to pour out the precious ointment of his per-
sonality. And that personality abideth forever, wrought
into the very substance of the University to which the life
of Joseph Le Conte was given.
Berkciv, Cal.
A California Gusher."
S the level floor of a land dotted with
bunches of greasewood, a girl
thed the sunset. To har, there was
exhilarating sense of space in this
less country. It was fine to see the
where the land met the sky, afar in
itant semicircle, unbroken by even a
vitt. She kept her back toward a cluster
of unsightly derricks which marked a newly discovered
oU region in Central California. A footstep caused her
to turn her head.
"You are late," she remarked to the man who joined her.
"True." He hesitated a moment and then added. "And
it was not unavoidable."
She lifted her head as if to notice the remark, and then
looked again toward the horizon, as if to dismiss the
thought.
"I didn't mind waiting," she said. "I've been standing
with my back to the wells, watching the plain. It's beau-
tiful just now — such a stretch of flat country, without a
house in sight I" She took off her hat and pointed to the
encircling pink sky. "I wish we were on horses, Rob, and
could ride straight to that rim."
"Molliel"
She looked at him in surprise.
"What is it, Robert ? Something has happened I"
"Nonsense — I didn't mean to frighten you. A woman
is always such a goose."
" Your voice alarmed me. Something has happened.
What is it ?"
" It isn't much — nothing to worry about," he reluctantly
admitted. "But — I don't like it, and that's why I was
il
A CALIFORNIA GUSHER." 243
late. For the first time in my life I dreaded to meet you."
He paused, and she waited for him to continue. '^MoUie,
last nififht some one turned on the stopcock in the pipe
which connects our well and the Avernus, and all nig^ht
we've been pumping: Avernus oil into Olympus tanks."
"Who did it?"
*^ That's the question. Our pump man was surprised at
the increased flow of oil, and we were congratulating our-
selves that the well was picking up. You know, lately
ours has been running low, while the Avernus has yielded
so much they haven't known what to do with their oil.
Everything they got is chock full — ^has been 'most ever
since you went away. They've been digging holes in the
sand and running it into them." She nodded. "In the
face of that it's mighty queer that one of the Avernus
men should be the first to find the stopcock open."
"But — I don't understand — why should they give you
their oil ?"
Robert Boyd smiled. " They don't give it to us. They'll
expect us to pay for it — at current prices, as they did for
that other."
"What other?"
" Then you didn't know about that ?"
She shook her head. "I thought your brother might
have told you. I didn't like to speak of it, because — well,
because the Superintendent of the Avernus is your
brother." Again she waited. "It was this way," he
continued : "About a month ago, while you were away, the
Avernus had more oil than it knew what to do with, while
we were short. We had a contract to fill, so we borrowed
the oil from the Avernus, to be repaid, of course. The
wells are so near that it is an easy matter to lay the pipe,
and we pumped sufficient Avernus oil into our tanks to fill
our contract. Within the next week oil dropped from a
dollar a barrel to seventy-five cents. Nothing had been
said about the price, because it was understood that we
were to repay the loan in oiL'*^
The girl glanced at the horizon. All the red had gone ;
she saw only a grey desert under a grey sky.
"Do you .mean that James went back on his word ?" she
asked.
" Exactly. James Oliver sent us in a bill for the oil used
— at a dollar a barrel."
" That wasn't" — she stopped.
*' Square," he finished. ' No, it wasn't ; but it's all of
a piece with a lot of other things he's done, MoUie." He
looked squarely in her face. " Some day it's going to come
244 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
to a head, and then James Oliver and I will have to have a
settlement."
'*I can't listen to anything: a^rainst my brother, Robert,
not even from you. He's been very busy of late, so busy
that he's had to work all night. Perhaps he's not been
himself. Why, only last night he had to go with a load
of oil over to the new well."
** You mean that they carried oil to the new well they're
boring," he asked in surprise.
'* Yes. Jansen was too busy to get it in the daytime, so
they didn't start until eleven o'clock at night, and James
was so nervous that he grew very irritable, because I urged
him to go to bed and get some rest."
There was an awkward pause, and then Robert remarked,
** Well, they say for every man in the world there's some
woman who thinks he's perfection."
'* I can't discuss James. I presume you mean him."
** You're not going to let him come between us, MoUie ;
you wouldn't do that ? That would be worse than — "
'*It could not mean a final separation, Robert, if we both
thought enough of each other to keep our promise ; but if
you should quarrel with James it might mean a separation
for an indefinite time."
** You can't mean that, Mollie I '
*' I do mean it. James has done so much for me. Love
that is worth having can wait." He did not reply. '*When
do vou intend to see James ? "
* Now." The word came from him sharp, quick, de-
cisive.
''Don't see him in your present mood," she pleaded.
''I must, Mollie, about this business of the Company.'*
" Don't mention me."
'' I won't. But there's no need to do that. Each knows
the other is thinking of you." He turned toward the
buildings.
'* I'll wait for you here," she said.
She watched him as he walked with a resolute step to
the Avernus office, then she looked at the horizon through
blinding tears. "Why must there be eternal strife?
Why can't those two like each other ? " She glanced in-
dignantly at the derricks. ''It's this greed for money
that's done it — they got along fairly well before they
struck oil. "
It seemed to her a long time before Robert rejoined her,
yet she knew by the approaching twilight that it could not
have been really more than a few minutes.
"It's happened, Mollie."
" You and James have quarreled ? "
*4
A CALIFORNIA GUSHER." 24S
44
44
He bent his face near hers, and she knew by the s:rim
determination of the lips and the angry sparkle of the
eyes that it was so.
It had to be — ^there was no ^fettingr away from it."
Didn't you anger him, Robert? Didn't you think
more of the price of a few barrels of oil than of anything
else ? "
'^Before Grod, no ! But I had to think of the Company.
I can't let my reputation be taken away. He wasn't there
when I went in. I saw the tank book lying open on the
desk, and I took down a memorandum of some figures on
the open page."
*' That wasn't the way not to anger him."
*' Maybe it wasn't; but I was thinking of the Com-
pany's interests. There's some one else, beside him, that
has to be considered. Well, it was unfortunate, for he
came in while I was jotting down the figures, and when he
saw what I was doing he got very angry,"
*' Oh, I can imagine I Go on I "
'^ He stormed and fumed, forbade me his house, and — "
** What did he say about me ? '
'^ He said we should never have each other, MoUie — ^he
swore it."
'* Why is it — the two I love — why must they be enemies ?"
She covered her face with her hands. *' Why ? "
After a moment he took her hands in his. '' MoUie, I
have resolved to give up my position here, to go away.
But I will never give you up. You are my promised wife.
Some day I will claim you."
"Don't go, Robert!"
''Those are almost the sweetest words I ever heard,
MoUie."
*' If you should go away we couldn't see each other — not
for a year, perhaps. I'd be so hungry for a sight of your
face in that long time, sweetheart."
''Would you? It's a temptation for me to go just tb
see."
"Don't! We speak so lightly of a year, but it's just
that much time lost out of our lives."
"We'll pass it near each other then. I'll stay." She
laid her hand on his. "Some day," he continued, "we'll
pass all of them together, Mollie."
*"* Yes. I can wait It's such a comfort to know you're
near, even though I can't see you."
They looked long in each other's eyes.
" Afterward ? " she asked. "What happened afterward
— between you and James ? "
He was called away." There was a pause, and then
44
246 LAND OF SUNSHfNE.
Robert continued: **I'm sorry I've made matters worse,
MoUie, but it can't be helped now. Some one else must
finish this business with him — ^I can't trust myself."
She was too wise to pursue the subject, but tried to in-
terest him in other matters. In this she was only partly
successful, and soon she bade him '^ ^ood-night."
Robert was glad to be alone. He wanted to think, for
he was torn by the cross currents of strong emotions. He
realized that MoUie's chance remark that oil had been car-
ried at night to the new well, placed her brother in his
power. He was trying to grasp the situation, when a man
came rapidly toward him.
** They've struck oil in the new well," he said, **and Mr.
Oliver's let half a dozen of us in at the bed-rock price."
Robert did not reply, and the man curiously regarded him.
'^ Don't seem to enthuse much. But I tell you right now
that that's the kind of a man I want to work for — one
that'll think enough of his men to give 'em a chance,
too."
** I'm always glad to hear of any one's good luck, Haw-
kins," Robert forced himself to reply, but the man was
hurrying away with his good news. .
To Robert the announcement was no surprise. It was
an expected chapter in the villainy unfolding before him.
It was clear that oil had been taken from the Avernus
secretly, at night, and poured into the new well. This
had been done to boom the stock and the plotter had not
scrupled to take the hard-earned savings of the men who
were working for him.
Robert reflected that should he expose the trick it would
be a severe blow to Mollie, who had winced under the sus-
picion he had already cast upon her brother. Yet, under
the circumstances, silence was almost contemptible. It
would be a just reproach, when the truth became known to
the victims, that he had not made an effort to save them.
On the other hand, the truth might never be known — it
was possible, even probable, that the trick would never be
discovered. After a time the edict would go forth that the
well had ceased to flow.
The thought that exposure by him savored more of re-
venge than of justice, appealed to his sense of honor. In
that event Mollie would shrink from her brother and natur-
ally turn to Robert ; but the knowledge that he had ruined
James Oliver would always be between them. He resolved
to keep the secret.
It was noticed that Robert avoided all mention of the
new well. He did not visit it; but the surly manager
">\ CALIFORNIA QUSHER." 247
allowed few visitors and none were permitted to remain
long.
After a week had passed Robert said to himself, There's
one way out of it and I'd give all I'm worth to have one
thing happen — to have them strike oil in earnest I"
He resisted a constant inclination to visit the spot. It
seemed to draw him to itself, as a magnet attracts steel.
On the eighth day after^his talk with MoUie, he suddenly
determined to yield to the impulse. He felt that he must
know whether they really were boring, or only making a
pretense. It was not right that he should be kept in sus-
pense. If there were a possibility of their striking oil he
would remain until the question should be settled ; if not,
notwithstanding Mollie's protest, he would leave that part
of the country.
He started bravely enough, but, as he neared his destina*
tion, he found himself loitering along the banks of an
irrigation ditch, the overflow from an artesian well.
Some low willows bent over the clear, tepid water, for
the water was quite warm where it bubbled from the
ground. A flock of little birds with a sweet, mournful
cry were calling among the trees.
He followed the stream to its source and watched the
water boiling from the ground, sending upward the bubbles
of gas which had first suggested that oil might be foimd
below the artesian belt.
''Robert I" He turned and saw MoUie. "I've been
walking behind you for such a long time," she said.
" Too bad I — ^When I haven't seen you for a week."
*'What difference does that make when we know we can
see each other in a minute, if necessary. If you're taking
a walk, let me join you."
" I — I thought I'd take a look at the new well."
" Oh ! I'd like to see it, too. James has gone to Bakers-
field."
" If that's the case I don't think I'll go. I don't like to
take advantage of his absence to spy "
"To spy ? Why, what is there to spy about? It's just
an oil well like any other."
"I don't think I'll go."
"And I insist now that you go. If you refuse I shall
think that you are morbidly suspicious and — jealous," she
laughed, "of James. Gomel"
She turned toward a new unpainted framework, which
rose beyond the willows. Robert followed.
As they approached the derrick, two men, bareheaded,
with flushed excited faces, hurried out and rah to the
shelter of some piles of lumber.
2« LAND OF SUNSHINE.
A errumblinE: and muttering: came from the earthy and
tben a grreat roar filled their ears and seemed to shake the
ground.
Robert drew MoUie back beneath the willows.
"Lookl" hecried. " Watch the welll"
A solid column of black oil shot upward, higrb in the air
above the derrick.
It swayed and heaved, spread out like the fan of a foun-
tain, ^rew less, then shot upward a^ain. The light breeze
played with it, making it now a sable plume flaunting and
nodding against the sky, and again the pennant of a pirate.
A shower of jet sprayed the ground.
The men swung their hats and cheered,
"A gusher 1" exclaimed Robert.
Skn Fiaaclico, Gal.
The Mission Indian Exiles.
151=
ff HE present time is a crisis in the history of
the Mission Indians, our Indians of South-
ern California, who are rather less well
known to the average inhabitant of the centers
of population than are the Indians of Arizona
and New Mexico, who live in the line of tourist
travel. To know the Mission Indians one
must visit them in their homes, not make their
acquaintance in Government boarding schools
or in the rude roadside camps where they exist
on sufferance as workers among the white men
during the harvest seasons. To visit their villages (except
in the case of a few more prosperous and accessible reserva-
tions) one must go far afield, beyond the railroad and the
stage line, to the remote refuges in canon, on mountain or
desert, where they have been driven by the advancing tide
of the white man's occupation.
The California Missions, founded for the Indians and
built by the Indians, remain, almost in ruins, to witness
what civilization can do for the uplifting of a primitive
race in a wonderfully short time, less than a generation;
this early work of the Spanish missionaries being one of
the most creditable chapters in pioneer history in this
country. The Missions remain, but the Indians have re-
ceded before the white man, without striking a blow to
defend their homes. Was it that they were naturally of a
gentle, peaceful disposition, a character that might result
from their simple diet of agricultural products, grains,
seeds, and the fruits of the wilderness; or was it that the
lessons of Christianity which they had been taught had
THE MISSION INDIAN EXILES. 249
really taken root in their hearts and minds ? Whatever
the reason, they were very different in this respect from
the fiercer tribes of tha north; and though they have had
provocation, a hundred times repeated, sufficient to make a
white man rise and mutiny, they have yielded a^fain and
again, and there has neyer been in their history a desperate
resistance like the battles of the Lava Beds. Thus they
have never been treaty Indians ; and although it might be
imagined that settled possession for generations, the tilling
of the soil, the planting of vineyards and orchards and the
harvesting of their fruits year after year might give a
right of occupancy, yet their title was practically unrecog-
nized by the Government, during all the time of the early
emigration into this country, and any claimant might gain
a United States patent to their lands, and drive them from
their homes.
In 1876 the Government awakened to the fact that some*
thing must be done for these Indians, and reservations
were then set apart for them, but such reservations must
of course be made from Grovernment land remaining at that
time unclaimed, and none was left of any real value. From
this fact arise most of the evils of their present position.
But let it not be imagined that the process of encroach-
ment on Indian land has at any time ceased, or that the
white man's greed is any less unscrupulous now than then.
There is a certain class of men in this country who think
it expedient to crowd the Indian in every possible way.
Men who would not cheat a white neighbor will charge an
Indian double in a sale and pay him half in a purchase.
They will confiscate his horses and cattle if they stray ;
they would call it stealing if the Indian did the same to
theirs, and would soon make him feel the arm of the law.
But the law, to the Indian, is a vague power that always
works against him, and to it he never dares appeal. People
ask why he does not assert his rights, why he does not
rebel. But he will not fight — would it be well that he
should ? And to insist that he shall be able to apply the
principles of legal redress is like demanding of a child the
comprehension of the differential calculus.
But outside this class of white men, those whom the
Indian, unfortunately for himself, most directly encounters,
the world has grown kinder since the Indians of San Pascual
were driven from their homes, as recorded in **Ramona."
The history of the Hot Springs Indians will prove this
fact. A suit claiming possession of their reservation was
brought by the owners of Warner's ranch on the borders of
which their land is situate, and after being appealed
through the generosity of friends, and decided against
250 LAND Uh SUNSHtNL,
them by a vote of four to three in the Supreme Court of
the State it was carried to the Supreme Court of the United
States, where the Indians finally lost it. Now they are
waiting on sufferance of the owners until Cong^ress meets
this winter, when it is hoped that something: will be done
to provide a home for them.
The people of California at the present day can not en-
dure the idea of these people being: foi'ced to leave the
homes that have been theirs for gT^nerations, and turned
adrift to starve or beg:. They realize that something: must
be done. Sufficient pressure must be brougrht to bear on
Cong:ress to make our legislators realize that a question of
humanity apart from politics is still of importance enough
in this country to demand immediate solution. But the
situation is larger than is commonly imagined.
Included in the suit with the Hot Springs Indians were
four little settlements on the borders of Warner's ranch
who were most unjustly made parties to the suit, though
the public has hardly heard of them. Puerta de la Cruz,
Puerta Chiquita, San Jose and Matag:uaya are tiny villages
where the Indians have lived for years on land which the
ranch has now swallowed up together with the Hot Springs
tract.
There is also another Indian village where the people
are living with the sword of eviction suspended over their
heads. San Felipe (or La Cienega, as the Indians call it)
is a poor little reservation lying on the foothills of Volcan
mountain, on the Eastern side looking towards the desert.
The land around is like the desert except where the fertile
valley opens out where the Indians used to live, now of
course owned by a white man and called the San Felipe
ranch. The limited tract to which the Indians have re-
treated is a bog, where the precious water wastes itself in
a clay soil where nothing but a rank willow growth can
flourish, except where perhaps four acres better situated
yield a little grain. But even this poor refuge, the desti-
tute village with its few pitiful acres, has been coveted by
the white man, with whom to covet is to acquire, where
Indian land is concerned. In the early days before the
Government threw any legal right about these Indians, the
white man would simply secure a patent over their heads,
and riding up with his musket order them off. Now a
pretence of law is complied with, but the Indians can not
defend their cases. Their friends are not always appealed
to in time to assist them, and with the Hot Springs case
for precedent there is little hope for Indians at law. So
now they must move off. The ranch owners have already
ordered them to leave, but where can they go ? It is a
THE MISSION INDIAN EXILES. 251
desperate situation. In front of them rise the barren hills
which roll one after the other like billows of rock and sand
until they become ramparts of the Colorado desert. Behind
them rises Volcan mountain, more bleak, inhospitable and
hopeless on this side than the other. ▲ goat could live
there. Cattle can range from poidt to point; but an
Indian, since he is a human being with human needs and
feelings, must starve here.
After this statement it must seem surprising to add that
Volcan mountain has already been given by Government
for an Indian reservation ; and the Indians of Santa Ysabel,
on the opposite side of this great mountain bulk, were
placed here when excluded from their former village lands
on Santa Ysabel ranch.
It is simply the only unoccupied land in the region, un-
occupied because worthless ; except where, on the summit,
a level place held the moisture and there was a little land
which could be planted. An Indian was already placed
here before the reservation was made and a white man
seized the land beside him and still ranges his cattle far
and wide on reservation land. But the Indians own no
cattle, nor could they keep them through the year without
a lower field for winter pasture ; for the snow lies three
feet deep upon the mountain top in winter. The Indian
land at the foot of the mountain has been claimed by the
ranch company, so here are also a number of Indian house-
holds awaiting eviction when the order comes from the
new claimants.
It is evident from what has been said, that the purchase
back by Government of the Hot Springs reservation would
not cover the need of the evicted Indians ; for the reserva-
tion is not large enough or rich enough to support any
others than its present occupants. Congress must be in-
duced this winter to make a purchase of land large enough
to cover all the needs of the case. A large fertile tract can
no doubt be bought for the price at which the owners of
Hot Springs would value that property, whose worth to
them lies in the wonderful mineral springs. Enough land
should be purchased not only for all the evicted Indians but
for the chronic need in many places where the existing
reservations are absolutely insufficient for the support of
the people placed upon them ; such as Manzanita, where
fifty-three people must get a living from four or five arable
acres, and there are many similar cases. The old and the
sick are in bitter want ; and in this rich and generous State
it should be possible for the Grovernment's wards to have
the conditions of self-support bestowed upon them. Our
naturally industrious agricultural Indians must never be
252 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
detrraded by rations. To starve oo barren rocks would be
a kindlier fate. But tools and fertile land, capable of
cultivation, must be (jranted them. It is all they ask, all
that we ask for them. I^t us make the request so imptfft-
aut and emphatic that Congress can not ignore it ; and let
there be no Government delay, but response swift and cer-
tain while the homeless exiles stand waiting: for the savinfr
hand which shall rescue them from despair.
ChoU Vista, Cal.
MORMONISM," BY ITS HEAD.
WHAT IT HAS DONS— WHAT IT IS DOtTitS-WHAT JT AIMS TO DO.
O tell all that Mormoniam bas done, all that it ia
doing', and all that it Intends to do, within the
limits of a magazine article, is obviously impoa-
Bible. I can only hint at it here, preaenting- a
close condensation of the three-fold subject, and
dealing- with generalities rather tlian details. I
am grateful for the privilege of placing before
a wide circle of readers the truth concerning
the aima and achievements of my people. In
order to comprehend clearly those achievements,
one mast first understand something about the aims in question, and
a treatise on those aims, however brief, necessarily involves the sub-
stance of Hormonism's message to the world.
Mormonism, a nickname for the real religion of the Latternlay
Saints, does not profess to be a new thing, excejit to this generation.
It proclaims itself as the original plan of salvation, instituted in the
heavens before the world was, and revealed from God to man in dif-
ferent ages. That Adam, Enoch, lioah, Abraham, Moses, and other
ancient worthies had this religion successively, in a series of dispen-
sations, we, as a people, verily believe. To us, the Gospel taught by
the Redeemer in the meridian of time was a restored Gospel, of
which, however. He was the author, in His pre-existent state. Mor-
monism, in short, is the primitive Christian faith restored, the
ancient Gospel brought baUi again — this time to usher ia the last
dispensation, introduce the Millennium, and wind up the work of re-
demption as pertaining to this jplanet.
It teaches that prior to the Millennial reign of peace, there is to be
a universal gathering of scattered Israel, the lineal descendants of
Abraham, Isaac and Jacob ; meaning not only the Jews, but also the
" lost tribes " and such of the chosen seed as have for generations
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' MORMONISMr BY ITS HEAD. 253
been mixed with other peoples. This gathering-, which includes the
converted Gentiles, is preliminarj to the glorious advent of the King
of kings, and the resurrection of those who are Christ's at his com-
ing. The places of assembly are America and Palestine, the former
taking chronological precedence as the gathering place of "Ephraim
and his fellows,** while the ** dispersed of Judah ** will migrate to
and rebuild Jerusalem. Here, upon the American continent, will be
reared Zion, a new Jerusalem, where the Saints will eventually as-
semble and prepare for the coming of the Messiah.
The site for the city of Zion was pointed out by the Prophet Joseph
Smith, as Jackson county, Missouri, and there some of our people
settled in 1831, but were subsequently driven from their homes. This
event, while it delayed the building of the city, did not change the
place of its location. The I^atter-day Saints fully expect to return
to Jackson county and '*build up Zion.*' Their exodus to the Rocky
Mountains, and their sojourn in '* the Stakes of Zion " — ^as the places
are called which they now inhabit — they regard as preparatory to
that return, and as events that had to be, iu order to fulfill scripture,
notably these words of Isaiah: '* O Zion, that bringest good tidings,
get thee up into the high mountain '*.... *'And it shall come
to pass in the last days that the mountain of the Lord's house shall
be established in the top of the mountains, and shall be exalted above
the hills, and all nations shall flow unto it.**
The predictions of the Bible in relation to the lord's latter-day
work are not the only ones cited by the evangels of the Mormon
faith. The Book of Mormon, claiming to be a history of ancient
America, a record of a branch of the house of Israel, the red man's
white ancestors, to whom the Savior ministered in person after his
resurrection— is also rife with prophetic references to the gathering
of the twelve tribes, and the establishment of Zion, and other events
of the last days ; and these prophecies are likewise pointed out by
our Klders when voicing their testimony to the world.
Joseph Smith declared that an angel from heaven revealed to him
the golden plates of the Book of Mormon, containing the Gospel, and
that other heavenly messengers ordained him to the Aaronic and
Melchisedek Priesthoods, thus empowering him to ordain others, to
preach faith and repentance, to baptise by immersion in water for
the remission of sins, and to lay on hands for the gift of the Holy
Ghost ; in short, to do all things necessary to be done to usher in the
dispensation of the fulness of times. Included in this declaration
was the promise that all who obeyed the Gospel should experience
the same miraculous gifts and powers that were enjoyed by the dis-
ciples anciently.
The effect of such a proclamation, first among the farmers and
artisans of western New York and northern Pennsylvania, next
among the colonizers of the West and South, and then among the
yeomanry and working classes of Great Britain, Scandinavia and
other European countries, was little short of marvelous. Thousands
thronged to hear the Elders — mostly unlettered, but earnest and
zealous men, preaching by the roadside, at the street comers, indoors
and outdoors, wherever they were permitted to speak — and by scores
and hundreds people of all religions and of no religion, people of all
classes and conditions, but generally the humble and the lowly, were
gathered into the fold. As a matter of course, the work encountered
opposition, bitter, relentless, and at times murderous ; but it throve
upon such treatment, and the more fiercely assailed, the more rapidly
its converts multiplied. Those who embraced the, faith, whatever
their nationality, were understood to be of the blood of Israel, mostly
of Ephraini, their genuine conversion being accepted as a proof of
their Israelitish origin.
254 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
The Chnrch of Jesus Christ of Latter-daj Saints, when organized
at Fayette, Seneca county, New York, April 6, 1830, had but six
members. A year later, with its headquarters at Kirtland, Ohio, it
numbered two thousand souls. The colony expelled from Jackson
county, Missouri, in 1833, comprised twelve to fifteen hundred, but
this was only a part of the Church. Its first foreign conversions took
place in the summer of 1837, at Preston, I^ancashire, I^ngland, from
which point the work radiated into the neighboring counties. Whole
villages were converted, and within nine months two thousand souls
were baptized. Another mission, in 1840-41, broadened and strength-
ened the foundations thus laid, brought seven or eight thousand
more into the church indifferent parts of the British Isles, established
a permanent publishing and shipping agency, and set in motion the
tide of Mormon emigration from that land.
In the winter of 1838-9 the main body of the Mormon people, num-
bering 15,000 men, women and children, then settled in Caldwell
county, Missouri, and adjacent parts, were expelled from their homes,
under an exterminating order issued by the Governor, and forced to
take refuge in the neighboring State of Illinois. There within the
next seven years they increased to 20,000, and received their first
immigrants from abroad. ''The Gathering" preached by the
Elders had now begun in earnest, and year after year converts from
Europe, Canada and all parts of the Union came pouring into
Nauvoo, Hancock county, and the vicinity, which had become the
chief gathering place. There the Prophet met his death, at the
hands of an armed mob, while a prisoner in Carthage jail ; which
event, while a violent shock to the Church, gave it a great impetus
and brought Brigham Young to the front as its leader.
What is generally recognized as Mormonism's one great service to
civilization — the redemption of the arid West, the peopling and dot-
ting with cities and towns, orchards and vineyards, of the sun-baked,
alkaline valleys of the Kocky Mountains, began in the summer of
1847, with the advent of Brigham Young and his pioneer band into
Salt I/ake Valley. The main body of the Church, in its exodus from
Illinois, was then resting upon the nation's frontier, the Missouri
River, from which point, the summer previous, had gone forth, at
the call of their country, the Mormon Battalion, 500 strong, to assist
in the war against Mexico. At that time this whole western region
was almost an unknown country — ^absolutely unknown to the people
of the East, practically unknown to the few scattered white inhabit-
ants on the coast of California and Oregon, and only partly known
to the occasional trapper or mountaineer who roamed over its soli-
tudes. It was denounced by Daniel Webster, on the floor of the
United States Senate, as '* a vast, worthless area," and the region
of the Great Salt Lake was indicated upon the maps and referred to
in the school books as " The Great American Desert." And desert
it was, whatever may be said now of latent fertility, in the light of
what has since been accomplished by earth culture and irrigation.
Colonel Bridger, the famous mountaineer, who met the Mormon
Pioneers on the Big Sandy, said to their leader : '' Mr. Young, I
would give a thousand dollars if I knew that an ear of com could
ripen in the Great Basin." Yet here in this region of salt, alkali
and sagebrush, all but treeless and waterless, a region condemned
by Webster, decried by Bridger, and shunned by the overland emi-
grant as a valley of desolation and death, Mormonism set up its
standard and proceeded to work out its destiny. Beneath its touch —
the touch of untiring industry, divinely blessed and directed — the
desert blossomed, the wilderness became a fruitful field, and cities
and towns sprang up by hundreds in the midst of the once barren
waste.
(«
MORMONISMr BY ITS HEAD. 255
Mor monism, in fottnding* Utah, blazed the way for the westward
march of civilization ; for in California and Oregon, her only possi-
ble competitors at that time, there was no such community of inter-
ests, no such org-anized effort, no such systematic plan of colonization
and State-building as were witnessed here from the beginning.
While California was digging gold, Utah was developing her agri-
cultural resources ; while on the fertile slopes of the Pacific the hus-
bandman was reaping with little or no toil harvests sown and
watered by nature, the Mormon settler was breaking his plowshare
in the hard, sunbaked soil, turning the mountain torrent from its
channel to soften and make arable the rocky ground, and when not
guarding himself and his loved ones against marauding and blood-
thirsty savages, was disputing possession of his scanty crops with
crickets, grasshoppers and other voracious pests with which the
region swarmed. While the overland emigrants, in too many in-
stances, were trespassing upon the rights of the red men, and at
times shooting them down on the slightest provocation, the Saints
were feeding them and teaching them the arts of civilization.
During the California gold excitement Salt Lake City was a halfway
house between the Missouri River and the Pacific Coast, and here
the tired gold-seeker halted for rest and to obtain supplies to enable
him to reach his journey's end. The founding of Utah facilitated
the settlement of other States and Territories now clustering
around her. The whole of Nevada and parts of Colorado and Wyo-
ming were once included in Utah, and the creation of most of the
surrounding commonwealths would have been next to impossible
without her.
Nor should it be forgotten that it was members of the Mormon
Battalion — honorably discharged after a year's faithful service on
the Pacific Coast — who, at Sutter's Mills, near Sacramento, in
January, 1848, dug up the first gold of California ; a discovery that
created the Golden State, and revolutionized the commerce of the
nation. Yes, it was Mormon picks and shovels that brought that
gold to the surface, and it was a Mormon who made the first record
of the world-renowned discovery. Moreover, it was a Mormon
colony, sailing from New York around the Cape to Yerba Buena,
now San Francisco, in 1846, that gave California her second pioneer
newspaper. The first newspaper published in the Rocky Mountain
region was established by the Mormon people at Salt L/ake City
alx>ut four years later.
Here, in the tops of the mountains, ^* exalted above the hills,"
Mormonism has continued its work of gathering Israel from the
nations. The first missionaries from Deseret — as Utah was origin-
ally called — ^went forth in the fall of 1849, bound for Great Britain,
Scandinavia, France, Italy, California and the Pacific Islands.
Simultaneously was organized the Perpetual Kmigrating Fund Com-
pany, to assist the poor among the scattered Saints to migrate west-
ward. This enterprise was established and conducted by the
Church, whose leading men, with the Church itself, were among the
main contributors to the fund. Those aided by it, with means ad-
vanced for their transportation, were expected to reimburse it as
soon as able, that the amounts returned might be used for the bene-
fit of other immigrants, and the fund thus be made perpetual. Many
persons, so helped, owe to this system their deliverance from pov-
erty or dependence in the lands of their nativity, and their subse-
quent rise to wealth and affluence.
The proselytes who came to build up the Stakes of Zion in the
Rocky Mountains were of the bone and sinew, genius and talent of
nearly all countries — farmers, laborers, tradesmen, mechanics, manu-
facturers, business men, with a liberal sprinkling of artists, musi-
2S6 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
cians, writers and other professional people, representing^ the average
run of American society and what are known in Burope as the mid-
dle and working- classes. Charles Dickens, when a newspaper re-
porter, said of a ship's company of Mormon emigrants, sailing from
London early in the sixties, that they were " in their degree the pick
and flower of England." Certain it is that such people were as a
rule zealous, heroic and God-fearing, to thus leave native land, for-
saking all for the Gospel's sake, and braving the dangers and hard-
ships of ocean and of desert to find new homes in a strange and
almost savage country. And by far the greater part of those who
have gathered here since those primitive times have been of the
same sterling mettle.
Crossing the sea, generally in large companies, thoroughly or-
ganized and equipped — the emigrational arrangements being of so
perfect a character as to call forth in 1854 the commendation of a
select committee of the House of Commons, who after investigation
pronounced the Mormon emigrant ship ** a family under strong and
accepted discipline, with every provision for comfort, decorum and
internal peace" — ^they would travel, until railroad facilities were ex-
tended, mostly if not entirely by team to the frontier, where they
would be reorganized, in like efficient manner, for the passage of the
plains ; an ox team and wagon or a handcart, with three months'
supplies, being necessary for the journey to Utah. The toilsome
trip over prairies, plains, rivers and mountains at an end, they would
here be met by kindred and friends who had preceded them, or by
church agents appointed for that purpose, would be taken home, fed
and furnished with employment in Salt I^ake City and the surround-
ing settlements, or sent to colonize and build up new sections. Most
of them, preempting and improving land, at the same time practic-
ing wherever possible their trades or professions, would soon acquire
homes of their own and lay the foundations for future prosperity,
I have in mind an English farmer, who with his wife and seven
small children settled in Salt Lake Valley some forty years ago ; the
ox team and wagon which had brought him from the frontier being
then his only possessions, and the wagon box — placed upon the
ground by the roadside where the family encamped — serving them
for a house. Today that farmer and his sons live in comfortable
modern homes, own hundreds of acres of choice land, with flocks
and herds in abundance — all as the result of tilling the soil and
stock-raising — and from absolute poverty have risen to wealth and
independence ; and this is but one of many such cases that might be
cited.
Is it saying too much that if Mormonism had done nothing more
than bring such people from the lands of their birth, where they
were living in rented homes, dependent upon others for employment
if not support, with no prospect of a change for the better, and here
make of them independent householders and landed proprietors, it
would have achieved one of the greatest and most beneficent works
of modem times ? In this connection let me quote the substance of
a remark made by Mr. Phil Robinson, former war correspondent of
the London Daily Telegraph, who as a special correspondent of the
New York World came to Utah early in the eighties. Said he, after
visiting some of our settlements, notably those of Cache Valley : **I
defy any honest man to survey that broad expanse of orchards,
meadows and grain fields, dotted with the homes of a peaceful, pros-
perous and contented people, to say in his heart that Mormonism is
either a fraud or a failure." It need scarcely be added that this gen-
tleman was not a convert to our doctrines ; he was simply surveying
Mormonism in its material phases. Himself a foreigner, an English-
man, he had mingled here with many of his former countrymen, res-
t*
MORMONISM," BY ITS HEAD. 257
cued by this relig'ion from poverty if not pauperism in the Old
World, and lifted to social and financial heig-hts of which they had
never dreamed. Add to such achievements the marvel, almost
miracle, of bringing' tog'ether from various parts of the earth men
and women speaking* different tongues, cherishing* different tradi-
tions, schooled in different customs, and making^ of them one homo-
geneous mass, living peaceably side by side and working unitedly
and intelligently towards a common end and purpose, and you still
have only a part — and that a material part — of what has been accom-
plished by Mormonism.
But there is a physiological as well as a sociological phase to the
subject, one that an Anglo-Saxon, be he B^ngllsh or American, cannot
fail to appreciate. Himself a product of race amalgamation, and
owing thereto his general physical excellence and racial supremacy,
it would require no argument to convince him that the highest type
of man Ls the composite type, blending in one race the best qualities
of many. The typical Englishman of today, what is he but a mixture
of Celt, Briton, Saxon, Norman and Dane ? The typical American,
what is he but the joint product of the best and most enlightened
peoples on earth ? The typical Mormon — history is but repeating
itself in creating him by a union of forces and powers that are sure
to make for the physical and intellectual betterment of mankind.
The whole idea of Mormonism is improvement — mentally, physi-
cally, morally and spiritually. No half-way education suffices for
the lyatter-day Saint. He holds with Herbert Spencer that the func-
tion of education is " to prepare man for complete living,'' but he
also maintains that "complete living " should be interpreted **life
here and hereafter." Joseph Smith declared that the glory of God
is intelligence, that a man is saved no faster than he gets knowledge,
and that whatever principles of intelligence he attains to in this life,
they will rise with him in the resurrection ; giving him the advan-
tage over ignorance and evil in the world to come. He taught that
man by constantly progressing may eventually develop into a divine
being, like unto his Father in heaven.
To promote these ideas and also to educate himself and his asso-
ciates in the learning of the world, the Prophet founded schools in
Ohio, Missouri and Illinois. I myself, though not then connected
with the Church, was attracted to Kirtland by the repute of the
Hebrew school that Joseph Smith had founded, and while studying
there with him and other leading Mormons as my fellow students, I
was converted to the faith. A university was organized at Nauvoo,
and another at Salt I^ake City, the latter only seven months after
the planting of the pioneer colony in the Great Basin; and even
earlier, this migrating community ,while halting on the Missouri, and
immediately after entering Salt L^ake Valley, established schools for
the education of their children. Wherever Mormon settlements have
sprung up the village school has been among the first things thought
of and provided for. President Youug founded before his death the
Brigham Young Academy at Provo and the Brigham Young College
at Logan, and had in view the founding of a still higher institution
at Salt I^ake City. It was provided that in these schools religion
and manual training should be taught, along with other branches of
learning. The Church since his day has pursued the same policy,
founding the latter-day Saints University at Salt Lake City and
academies in many of the States. Utah with her State University,
her splendid public school system, and other scholastic institutions,
stands among the foremost of the States in educational develop-
ment.
Mormonism's first schools were established at Kirtland in 1832,
and were subsequently taught in the Temple at that place. These
buildings, however — of which the Saints have erected six and now
258 LAND OF SUNSHtNE.
possess four — are not designed for re^rular school work, but are used
almost exclusivelj for sacred ordinances. The greatest of them, the
Salt lyake Temple, is built of natiye granite, quarried in the moun-
tains twenty miles distant, and hauled thence mostly by ox-teams in
times of hardship and poverty. Owing to these circumstances this
Temple cost about four million dollars, and required forty years for
its construction.
In the Tabernacle adjoining the Temple stands the great organ,
built thirty years ago by Mormon artisans and mostly from native
materials. Always a wonderful instrument, famous far beyond the
borders of the State, it has kept pace with musical progress, taking
on from time to time the latest improvements, until today it is de-
clared by competent critics here and elsewhere to be the most perfect
instrument of its kind in the world. In variety of construction and
the massing of tonal qualities it is said to be the ne plus ultra in
organ-building. A worthy companion to the organ is the Tabernacle
choir of six hundred voices, about half of whom took part in the great
choral contest at the World's Fair in 1893, carrying off the second
prize, and all but winning the first. The universal love of music
among the I^atter-day Saints, and Utah's phenomenal progress in the
art, vocally and instrumentally, may be regarded as one of the re-
markable achievements of our religion.
The influence of Mormonism upon religious thought in general is
a noteworthy feature of its career. The preaching and publishing of
its doctrines has had a marked effect in molding and modifying
Christian views and sentiments and in changing the creeds of the
churches. Infant damnation and the never-dying torture of the soul
(doctrines controverted by Mormonism) are not insisted upon by the
sects as emphatically as they once were, and the *' larger hope " of
repentance beyond the grave — an out-and-out Mormon doctrine —
is gradually coming to the front in the reformed conceptions of
orthodox Christianity. Other points of modification are those touch-
ing the antiquity of the Gospel, and progress in lieu of stagnation in
the life to come. Since a Mormon poetess wrote a hymn invocation
to the Eternal Father and Mother, it has dawned upon many Christ-
ian minds as a reasonable proposition that we have a Mother as well
as a Father in Heaven. In divers other ways, clearly discemable to
the close student of history, Mormonism has acted as a leaven upon
other religious faiths. Consciously or unconsciously they have ab-
sorbed and utilized it. This is especially manifest . in the growth of
liberal ideas among the Protestant churches within the last half
century.
If I were asked to name the greatest achievement of Mormonism,
however, I should have to speak of its spiritual triumphs, manifest
in its effects upon the lives, characters and disposition of its con-
verts ; in the wonderful religious awakening and reformation that
has taken place in their souls as the result of the acceptance and
practice of its principles. The great hope that has been kindled in
their hearts ; the expulsion of doubt ; the assurance that their sins
are forgiven and washed away; that through the medium of the
Holy Spirit they are actually brought into communion with God ;
the promise not only of salvation, but of exaltation in the life to
come, conditioned upon obedience and faithfulness here ; the knowl-
edge imparted of the pr^xistence and the hereafter, the perpetuity
in heaven of family relationships formed on earth, man's true rela-
tianship to God, with all that it implies in the way of progress and
ultimate perfection — all these give a peace, a sense of security to the
soul, a moral and spiritual elevation that passes understanding and
constitutes the greatest boon that religion can bestow.
So much for what Mormonism has done. Now as to what it is
doing' Briefly, it is continuing the work begun by Joseph Smith
"MORMONISMr BY ITS HEAD. 259
and bnilt ttpon by Brig^ham Young and his immediate successors.
Out of deference to the law of the land, and after much suffering* in
the premises, it has laid aside the practice of one of its principles —
that of Patriarchal or plural marriage — by which it had hoped to
further demonstrate some of its ideas respecting the physical,
mental and moral regeneration of the race ; but with this exception
all the principles and doctrines taught to the Church by its founder
are in force and are still practiced by it. The preaching of the
Gospel goes on, and the gathering of Israel likewise continues.
From eighteen hundred to two thousand missionaries are kept in the
field, traveling and laboring unsalaried, at their own expense, and,
wherever permissible under the laws of the country they visit, with-
out purse or scrip, which has been our practice from the beginning.
This practice, which is in harmony with the procedure of the Apos-
tles anciently, while a severe trial to the Blders, has proved a most
excellent discipline, causing them to put implicit trust in God, and
clothing them with the true spirit of their calling. Bvery worthy
male member of the Church holds some office in the Priesthood, and
is exercised either at home or abroad in preaching the Gospel and
administering its ordinances.
The I^atter-day Saints in all the world number about 300,000, mostly
dwelling in the Stakes of Zion, of which there are 49 all in the Rocky
Mountain region. A Stake is a thoroughly organized sub-division
of the Church, and is in most cases coextensive with a county. There
are thirty stakes in Utah, eight in Idaho, four in Arizona, three in
Wyoming, one in Colorado, one in Oregon, one in Canada, and one in
Mexico. The outside missions number fourteen, and comprise most
of the countries of the globe. A new mission in the Orient — ^Japan
— is projected.
One of the features of the Mormon polity is the care for the poor
and unfortunate, for which purpose the perfect organization of the
Church— conceded to be the most complete and effective in existence
— is supplemented by the Relief Society, an organization composed
entirely of women, and having a membership of thirty thousand,
with branches in all the settlements of the Saints, as well as in the
outside missions. Our Sunday School Union is also doing a mighty
work, with a total membership of 120,000.
Mormonism is pursuing its traditional policy — " minding its own
business" and doing unto others as it would be done by. It does not
spend its time berating and abusing other churches and religions, all
of which it recognizes as doing good in their various spheres. It
simply proclaims itself as a greater measure of truth, as the fulness
of the Everlasting Gospel ; facing fearlessly all creeds, all systems,
and inviting comparison between its doctrines and theirs. Our
Tabernacle and other public buildings are open to ministers of other
denominations, and to lecturers and speakers in general.
What Mormonism aims to do has substantially been told. That it
will succeed in establishing 2^ion, in building the Holy City, in
gathering out the righteous from all lands and preparing them to
meet the Lord when He comes in His glory, no faithful Latter-day
Saint doubts. To this end it aims to institute what is known as the
United Order, a communal system inaugurated by the Prophet
Joseph Smith as early as February, 1831, but which, owing to the
Church's frequent migirations and other causes, has never been fully
established. The purpose of the Order is to make the members of
the Church equal and united in all things, spiritual and temporal, to
banish pride, poverty and iniquity, and introduce a condition of
things that will prepare the pure in heart for the advent of the
world's Redeemer.
Salt Lake City* Utah.
WJTrFlJtMl, M^antCMHw enluB.
Just when its directors were most troubled by the lack of funds to
carry out work of crying necessity, Mrs. Pbebe Apperson Hearst —
already a g-euerous giver — has come to the rescue by promising the
Club $500 for immediate operations. This will enable prompt atten-
tion to repairs at the interesting chapel at Pala, with minor safe-
guardings of the San Diego and other Missions. This libeia.1 gift
from the noble woman who is doing so much to further so many good
causes in iCalifornia, is the largest "lift" the Club has ever had,
and comea most opportunely. But are only rich people interested in
preserving the historic landmarks of the State 7 Is it not well for
every citizen who can feel for these things to have a personal hand
in their conservation, if it be only a dollar's worth a year? A dollar
is all that membership in the Landmarks Club costs, and is the only
initiation ; and that dollar goes net to the work. The Club has al-
ready raised nearly $4,000, and expended nearly all that sum in expert
repairs to three principal Missions. It needs many thousands mare.
It is incorporated, permanent and competent. And it begs the right
sort of Americans to aid its work.
S TO TBB CADSB.
Already acknowledged, $3,862.%; new contribntioos, Phebe Ap-
persoQ Hearst, Pleasanton, Cal., $500.
The cap was not to pass from as — nor ita uttermomt dregs, the test
We drank them with the fatal outcome of the President's is
wounds. His death could hardlj add to our ahame as a now.
nation which has pemitted the murder of its rulers to become a
habit; but it added new ^ef. How honest that grief is, every
American is now on trial to show — as also how sensible he is to dis-
grace.
There has been, of course, a vast amount of hysteria, and foolish
talk, and mad talk. The dictionary has been detjased, and historj
spat upon ; and one has often twen reminded of the professional
" keenera." But it is too soon yet to know who is really sorry for the
iHurder of the President. It is always easy to cry when the multi-
tude cries ; words and ink and crape arc cheap. But real sorrow g-ets
into the bones. Furthermore, tears, processions and turned rules do
no dead man any good. They are not worth dying for. There is
talk of many " monuments" to the victim of our ill-citixeuship — and
of course this means a multiplication of bad stone-cutting, of which
we have already more than enouRph. But the greatest monument
Prest, McKioley could have — the greatest monument man ever had —
would be that his death roused his countrymen to do their civic duty
— as they were not doing- it, else he would not have been slain. For
such a monument, any American would be glad and praud to die ;
and unto a few it has been given. The murder of Lincoln was the
death-blow to human slavery ; the murder of Garfield crippled the
spoils system. The murder of McKinley — what shall it do 7 Are
we done when the crape on our doors gets shabby, and the Sag clinitw
again from its formal half-mast 7 Are you sorry that Wm. McKinley
Is dead 7 Are yon ashamed that President McKinley was murdered 7
If so, how much so 7 In other words, what are you going to do
about it ? Continue to l>e " too busy to Ijother" atiout the republic 7
There has been as much cowardice as silliness displayed, we udst
Shouldn't we be proud to lay it all to one lone anarchist, and Take it
turn ourselves over for another nap 7 Isn't it manful to houe.
put the blame of the anarchists on "yellow newspapera"^and stop
our subscription 7 The press is just what it was before. There are
not enough anarchists in the United States to support a " patent
inside" country weekly ; but the sheets you blame are circulated by
the hundred thousand. Who has fattened them in yellowness 7 And
now the loudest howlers against them are not only the respectable
men who have paid for them and read them for years, but divines,
and lawyers, and educators and politicians who have been willing
enough to take their money for articles until the hue and cry came.
Now reforms never come thus by epilepsy. The present Tdrotng
spaam of virtue against bad papers will not last six months, STATE'S
unless it has a deeper root. The real oSense of yellow SvmSKCB.
{'oumalism is not that it has killed a President— for only those who
lave catarrh of the mind really believe that — but that it has mur-
262 LAND OF SUNSHfNE.
dered our taste. The fault is no more with the papers — ^which are ''out
for the coin" — than with the people who support them. It is not with
cartoons — in which one political party has been quite as vulgrar an
offender as the other — nor with abuse in type. It is with us. To
what child are you going to say that Americans are so futile that one
owner of a newspaper can pick up 300,030 readers by the scruff of
the neck and *'run" them ? Why, if he lost ten per cent, of them for
some vulgarity he would change his tune like lightning. He gives
them what he believes they wish ; and while he is mistaken partly,
since they had no thought of wishing any such thing until he fed
them on it, he is quite right in feeling that they are his accomplices.
If they do not prefer, they accept, the vile trash he sets before them.
They read his sheet — at the office, if not at home — they advertise in
it, they are just as responsible for it as he is. Bishops, generals,
governors, college presidents, clergymen — there is not a paper so
yellow that some of the most prominent of them have not written
for it for big pay. And now these very men are turned State's evi-
dence against their pal.
POWER It is well enough known that the Lion detests vile journal*
C~ WITHOUT ism ; that he even finds some danger in the vast and wholly
RBSFONSiBiuTY. irresponsible power allowed the most respectable paper — ^a
non-elected authority in a republic. He believes that this power, like
all other power in a democracy, should be delegated only by consent
of the people. He believes that yellow papers should be abolished
and all papers made responsible. But he does not believe these things
will ever be done by spasms or by passion. Before we can change
our papers, we shall have to change ourselves. When we change,
they will have to. Fifty years ago in this nation none of our glaring
yellow sheets could have lived. There were not enough Americans
so lacking in dignity and taste as to support them.
THB ROOT The root of the trouble is that our taste has been degraded,
OF THB our respect for I^aw wiped out, our ideals bartered for
TRonBi«B. "deals." For all this, beyond doubt, our modem news-
papers are damnably responsible — but we are responsible for our
newspapers. One man cannot debase a quarter of a million unless
the quarter of a million are "willing." And the man who can " lay
it all on his neighbor" and be comfortable, is not built quite right
for the citizen of a republic.
THB One of the few redeeming features of the Buffalo disgrace
sii^VBR is that the wretched assassin was not mobbed. A coward,
I^INING. indeed, struck him after he was well held ; and some equally
heroic clergymen have ** wished they could have got at him" — under
the same conditions of safety to themselves. But an American mul-
titude stood by American law. The murderer — ^who not only killed
the President, but wounded every American — ^has been arrested,
tried, condemned ; promptly, decently, and in order. He will be exe-
cuted as soberly ; and we shall have shown better by this than by all
the strutting in the world that we are still fit for self-government.
For when American law shall no longer be enough for Americans to
live by and live up to, the greatest experiment in republics will have
been proved to be a failure.
THB MOST As for the hare-brained — who are really more anarchists
DANGEROUS than Czblgosz, but either less courageous or more ignorant
ANARCHISTS, of the dictionary — we can afford to pity them. They are
children who will never grow up. They will never learn to think —
since it is so much less trouble to open their mouths. It relieves
them to counsel anarchy, violence, folly; and fortunately it does
IN THE UON*S DEN, 263
not yet sway the sober people. We have not rioted nor lynched nor
adopted a Kussian censorship. And we are not going to. A little
the most immature of these poor citizens are those who would hush
all criticism. Only children are unaware that when honest criticism
is strangled, a republic is dead. It has become a despotism. With-
out free and open discussion of Buchanan's policies, Abraham Lin-
coln would never have been elected. And these people are not even
honest — they mean only that everyone shall be estopped from criti-
cising Their Man ; but they will feel perfectly free to criticise the
Other Man if he gets in. Such are made particularly to be the easy
raw material of despotisms. The only free man is the man who
dares to think and dares to let his neighbor think.
It is a sheer Godsend that for once in our modern history Thb i<ast
we did not pick a nonentity for "the tail of the ticket." shaxi, BB
"The providence which watches over " — some people — was first.
surely with us. Henceforth we may as well lay the lesson to heart.
A Vice-President may become President — let's see that he be fit to
be. And, with that sense of humor which doubtless originates
there, providence has made fun of the politicians. It was not the
best, but the worst, elements in our politics that " buried "Roosevelt.
It was not for our own good nor his, but to get him out of the way,
that the bosses let us nominate him. And behold how small a thing
shall confound them ! He was made Vice-President lest he be a
troublesome and unputtying candidate for President. And now he is
President — as he never would have been by consent of the heelers.
That smart man, but gross materialist, Mark Hanna, is dead as a
presidential possibility. He is no longer even a Warwick — and it is
hard to conceive how he could have been wiped off the slate other-
how. Roosevelt is not only President now by accident ; he will be
President by choice. He is man enough so that so much is sure, if
he lives. And he is pretty liable to live.
It is in Theodore Roosevelt to be one of the greatest of our what
Presidents. The only possibility against it is that he may, is in
from sheer modesty, lean too far on men the greatest Presi- him.
dents have been greatest by snubbing. Roosevelt is not only the
youngest President in years — he is ten times the youngest in fact.
He has more Old Adam than any six of them. It is his strength and
his danger. If he will trust what he really believes, and not what
someone — or everyone — would like him to believe, he can write his
name with the highest.
It was manful and fine to vow to carry out the policies of his can
predecessor — but Roosevelt cannot do it. He cannot be any THB
other man than Roosevelt ; sobered, made responsible, made i«BOPARD —
tender. Try as he may, he cannot confound — thank God I — that su-
perb personality. He can learn, he can bend, he can grow — but he
cannot be any President that has gone before him, first or last. He
can only be President Roosevelt; chastened, enlarged, awed — but
the same Man. And, again, thank " whatever gods may be."
For the second time in American history— for Washington thb man
was a graduate of the wilderness — we have an outdoor who can
President. To a city man it has been impossible to find takb a traii,.
some trails — but the adopted Westerner can find them if he will. The
** spoor " is there — all it needs is a man who can '* read sign." Presi-
dent Roosevelt can stop the butchery of the Boers by turning his
hand over — ^and without a flutter. The simple knowledge that he is
against Chamberlain's crime — as he personally is, as every American
is— is enough to stop England if fitly conveyed. He can as easily
— and as honorably — redeem our name in the Philippines. He can
264 LAND OF SUNSHiNE,
be, not the President who " expanded " the Repnblic, but the Presi-
dent who saved it. And all depends on whether he shall choose to be
Roosevelt still or Roosevelt minus the politicians. God send him
light to be himself, wiser, but not surrendered ! God help him !
Aiid the only way God is likely to help him is when you and I do. If
we love and trust and back him as fellow Americans and not as
valets or fawners for "what we can get out of it," if we watch him
(instead of going to sleep and leaving our duty on top of his own
great burden) — why, all will come right. But God never yet carried
an American President when the American people were too lazy to.
wBYivKR The official reports of the British War-Office state that
OUT- there were, in August, 136,619 persons held in the British
wiSYirBBBD. concentration camps ; and that in that month 2,345 of these
" reconcentrados" died. Of this fearful number, 1,878 were children.
Now there are people so ignorant as not to understand what this
means. If every man in the United States did understand, the South
African war would end — or there would be a war "as is war." These
figures simply mean — as every statistician knows — ^that the Boer
women and children corraled in barbed wire by their British con-
querors are dying len times as fast as any normal death-rate* Expo-
sure, insufficient food, insufficient doctoring — these are killing a
thousand Boer women and children for every Boer man between 16
and 60 the British ever killed in a fair fight. Three years ago, we
pretended to be horribly horrified at Weyler's lesser brutality.
Lesser numerically — while to compare the Boers with the Cubans is
to confess congenital and unremedied ignorance of history. It is
*• up to" the United States now. We have a President who person-
ally sympathizes with the bravest little nation in modem history. I
have never yet met an American who did not. Yet, the greatest
nation in the world is responsible not only for the killing of the men
but the starving of the women and babies in South Africa. England
is following her traditions in this war on the weak ; we are abandon-
ing ours by consenting to it. We used to be able to speak out — for
Poland, for Greece, for Mexico. And now if we spoke out that
would settle it. The Lion hopes that President Roosevelt will — very
politely, as strong men can afford, and with the most distinguished
consideration — say the one word that will stop rather the most in-
famous war of modem times. Trouble? Why, the man who can
believe that England — which has strained in vain for two years to
whip 30,000 stupid farmers, would ** tackle" a nation of seventy-six
million people — well, he could believe anything. If England under-
stood officially what is true individually — that her war in South
Africa is distasteful to ninety per cent, of the American people— that
war would stop. And unless it does stop, far more shame to us than
to England.
FOR The The movement to aid the peaceful and shamefully mal-
FIKST treated Mission Indians of Southern California should take
AMBRICAN8. form in the coming month. Miss Du Bois's moderate article
on another page tells something of their bitter need. Meantime a
few people have shown their practical sympathy. The Lion hereby
acknowledges receipt of $5 from J. E. Lowrey, of Sopris, Colorado
— ^the first to respond — $S from Frances Anthony, Fairmont, Minn.;
$5 from Amy Taylor, of Otay, Cal.; and the handsome gift of $50
from Amelia B. HoUenback, of Glen Summit, Pa. These moneys —
and all others sent for that purpose — ^will be applied directly to the
aid of the Indians in such ways as shall seem wisest and most impera-
tive. And the work for their permanent relief will proceed.
IN THE UON'S DEN. 265
Having- served a patient and faithful apprenticeship of and now
seven and a half years, having fought long and hard and an advance
up-hill to win the sort of standing it cared for, this maga.- in porcs.
2ine now feels entitled to take the forward step it has constantly had
in view. It has tried to earn — and, it believes, succeeded — as high
standing in literature and science as any Western magazine ever had.
It believes there was truth in the recent verdict of The Dial that it
is now *' a voice listened to with respect and interest in all parts of
the country." If this be so, its next move is justified.
With the January number (opening its 16th volume) the mag-azine
will be again enlarged — this time to '* standard " magazine size ; the
size, that is, of Harper's and Scribner*s and The Century, There
will be an even more notable enlargement of its scope. It has
already begun simultaneous publication in Los Angeles and San Fran-
cisco ; and it will cover the whole Pacific Coast and the entire West,
with all they stand for. In entering upon the wider arena, it will
adopt a broader name. The title which fitted its beg^inning^ is now
outgrown, and the time for a re-christening has come. From and
after the January number the magazine will be " OUT WEST ; "
with motto and subtitle tersely indicating the larger field it be-
lieves it has earned the right to take for its own. It will mean to
be the magazine not only of the West — ^its freedom and its strength
and its culture — but of the new world-movement, the prophecy so
long- ago uttered by Seward and now in actual process of realization
— the opening and control of the Pacific. The only serious magazine
in the whole West — that is, in more than half the total area of the
United States — it believes itself to be the logical candidate for this
place ; and it will try to fill it. Without losing a whit of its free-
dom, vigor and individuality, it will extend its fences. It will con-
tinue the serious work in Western history and science which have
made it indispensable to scholars and libraries, and will do that work
better. It will add many features worth adding ; and will appeal to
a much larger constituency. It will be the standard-bearer of what
it believes to be the right solution of the most tremendous problems
this half of the United States has ever faced ; and it will reach out to
problems that cannot much longer be dodged by either the busi-
ness or the scholarship of the country at large. For the world's
greatest ocean is to be the world's greatest highway ; and the Pa-
cific Coast is the American door to it.
Many men the Lion has known, of many minds and many Thb passing
lands — but never a truer Man, never a clearer mind, never a op a
finer spirit, never a cleaner hand, never a surer friend than / man.
Frank A. Gibson, who has just gone to the Innumerable Company.
He was one in a million. A marked figure among the bankers of the
Pacific Coast, he had all the qualities to have been still larger in a
larger field, had he chosen. In literature, in law or in statecraft, he
could have been a leader. Besides a most rare mind he had what
should now pass as an actual genius for honesty. And whatever he
touched in his life was better for the compact of that warm, gentle,
firm hand. God rest him I
C. F. L.
ing prevalence of nervous brightness ; but very little of it
rings true — it is palpably written to order. Leaving aside
the ethics of the case — and even literature has ethics —
the surest way now to literary success is to know some-
thing ; and know it so hard and so well that it has to come
oat. A book or a poem of snch parentage is at once
marked amid the multitude of them that are trying to lift
themselves by their mental bootstraps.
Perhaps no one now extant is better qualified to
write of Paris of Speech than Brander Matthews,
^"'" whose fourteen essays on English are foregathered
in the delightful book of this title. His learning, his
grace, his humor, and his incorrigible armed "American"
ism," give life to whatsoever he may write; and even under
so unflattering a caption as Parts of Speech the lay reader
will miss it if he neglects what this fine insurgent has to say.
For he could — and would — make "good reading" of the
Catalogue of the Ships. Charles Scribner's Sons, 157 Fifth
avenue. New York. $1.25 net.
A useful paper by Ralph Eadcliffe-Whitehead, of
Montecito, Cal., on Pidures for Schools, with practical
notes on selection of the pictures and framing, is published
for the author.
An exquisite little piece of bookmaking is the McClure,
Phillips & Co. edition of Walter Bagehot's scholarly essay
on Shakespeare the Man.
Better thought than performance marks the poems
Without a Name, by E^dward Blackman.
" So passed aloof tbo&e lorn, prevenient days,"
is hardly the sort of thing for these days already "pre-
vented ;" and Mr. Blackman's meters are not what he
might make them, though his concepts are above the aver-
age of " books printed for the author." The Whitaker &
Ray Co., San Francisco. $1.
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 267
The 8tli in the **We8tern Series of Readers" is a pleas-
ant little volume of Shells and Sea-Life^ by Josiah Keep^
Professor of Natural Science, Mills College. The Whitaker
& Ray Co., San Francisco. 50 cents.
The Whitaker & Ray Co., San Francisco, publishes a
prose Story of Evangeline^ adapted for primary scholars, by
If. H. Vincent.
Nineteen poems, sincere and not without real uplift,
make up a little brochure. Among the Redwoods^ by Lillian
Hidman Shney. The Whitaker & Ray Co., San Francisco.
25 cents.
Among: the best artistically and most interesting of the
many ** art publications," the Leefer Photographs of Bible
and Classic Lands take an easy lead. They are of unusual
merit from the photographic viewpoint, and of very wide
interest. Published bi-monthly by the Leeper Photo-
graphic Co., Fort Wayne, Ind. $2.40 a year, 40c. a number.
A valuable and portly monograph on the Symbolism of
the Huichol Indiaris^ by Carl Lumholtz, forms Vol. Ill of
the ''Memoirs of the American Museum of Natural His-
tory." New York.
Among many other useful articles, Nos. 1-3 of Vol. Ill,
Bulletins of the University of Pennsylvania Free Museum
of Science and Art, contain notes of his *' Summer Trip
among the Western Indians," by that earnest, honest and
ponderable student, Stewart Culin.
It is reasonably safe to take for background of a "in ths
story the times and scenes of Hannibal's invasion ^^^^ofold "
of Italy, 217 B. C. There are few novel-readers
who will know whether the color be true or false ; and this
reviewer certainly cannot pass expert judgment — except
that in Duffield Osborne's The Lion^s Brood he finds
nothing to shock the traditions of his youthful classics.
But on the other hand it needs no expert to recognize the
strength, ingenuity and swing of this story. The fight-
ing and the love are alike fine and exciting, and the char-
acters have a good vital reality. Mr. Osborne has taken a
striking stage and peopled and handled it with uncommon
effectiveness. Doubleday, Page & Co., New York. C.
C. Parker, Los Angeles. $1.50.
Tennessee Sketches^ by Louisa Preston Looney, will ap-
peal rather to a local than to a general audience. The
little volume, which has been given an attractive dress by
268 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
its publishers, contains seven short stories — innocuous, un-
assuming and indecisive. A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago.
$1.
^HK The Inn of the Silver Moon^ by Herman K. Viele,
^"MENCHY " ^® ^ slender fantasy of a story, a *' flower of a day,"
of the better French delicacy and humor. The
surprising adventures of " Achille" and his fair unknown,
at and following the famed Pig Market at Greslin, are
recounted with a grace which is hard to resist, and the
volume is as dainty as the story. H. S. Stone & Co., Chi-
cago. $1.
The Truth About the Philippines^ by H. H. Van Meter, is
a sober and remarkably instructive compilation of 432
pages from official sources, which every thoughtful Ameri-
can, of whatever bias, should read. The truth is a good
thing to get at, and Mr. Van Meter has evidently tried to
give the truth. Geo. M. Hill & Co., 166 South Clinton
street, Chicago. Paper 25 cents, cloth $1.
The 12th Annual Report of the Missouri Botanical Gar-
den falls nothing short of the interest and value for which,
under the direction of Wm. Trclease, this institution has
acquired an enviable reputation. A large number of good
engravings add materially to the attractiveness and worth
of the volume.
A very luxurious Rubaiy&t of Mira Memn^ with tinted
pages, richly printed illustrations — whose artist leaves
more to be desired — is issued by Henry Olendorf Shepard,
Chicago.
Prof. Geo. C. Watson has made, in his Farm Poultry^ a
compact, authoritative and thorough handbook which no
poultry-grower — whether farmer or amateur — can afford to
be without. It is marked by practical common sense as
well as learning, and is fully illustrated. The Macmillan
Co., 66 Fifth avenue, New York. $1.25.
TAi^Es An Anting-Anting" is a Filipino amulet, of
^pm^raiBs whatever sort, to protect its owner from injury ;
and among the uncivilized tribes of the islands the
virtues of some such charm are implicitly trusted. It
makes a good fetish for literature, too ; and Sargent
Kayme has used it cleverly in Ati ting- Anting Stories '* and
other strange tales of the Filipinos." The eleven short
stories in this collection are all admirably taken and very
well told — dramatic, novel and strong — and the book is an
uncommonly interesting one. It is well printed and
wretchedly proofread. Such publishers should be ashamed
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 269
to print " Senor" for Senor and *' Canon" for canon all
throug^h a pretty volume, and other equal barbarisms. It
must be presumed that in Boston one knows that this is
like putting: '*Spanard," "millon," *'lanard," for Span-
iard, million and lanyard. And ^Ma Plaza del Carabaos"
is about as ig-norant and brutal an assault upon g^rammar
as could be committed. So unusual stories merit more
careful typography. Small, May nard & Co., Boston. $1.25.
The musical ear, a sensuous appetite, fullness of pokms
reading, and an unusual scope of thought — within ^^^ ^^on
its scope — mark Louis Alexander Robertson's The
Dead Calypso and other verses. Of the nearly 80 titles,
not one is commonplace ; and a few of them are striking.
Perhaps it is vain to complain, in these sophisticated days,
of too much rondeau, ballade, and other French-heeled
metres ; Mr. Robertson does not need them, but in any
event he is worth reckoning with. A. M. Robertson, 126
Post street, San Francisco. $1.50 net.
ART.
A book which may be read with profit by such as naturb
persist in great cities, and with amusement by ^^^
such as live, has been made by J. P. Mowbray from
his papers in the New York Evening PosL Its title is A
Journey to Nature; and it is deliciously indicative how far
the city man must ' fare, on such a pilgrimage, that the
author thinks he has arrived there — in a York State farm-
ing community. But if somewhat tense and conscious and
exhibitive, the book is interesting and doubtless as strong
medicine as should be given its patients at first. Doubleday,
Page & Co., New York; C.C. Parker, Los Angeles. $1.50.
Dr. Edward Robeson Taylor's Requiem on the death of
Joseph Le Conte has been printed for the Sierra Club, of
which Dr. Le Conte was a foremost member.
D. P. Elder & Morgan Shepard, San Francisco, issue
in very tasteful brochures Friendship^ a collection of nota-
ble sayings on that text, and loi Sandwiches^ a useful
booklet of recipes. Paper. 50 cents each.
In The Scribe of a Soul, Clara Lsa Price professes that she CBI«BSTiai«
is but the mouthpiece of one "Selestor,*' who in turn dic-
claims to have '* known aU wonders that unto man are TaTion.
sealed" and ''fathomed sun, moon, planets, all, and stars have read
as vast papyrus scroll." As the gentleman seems to have made his
last appearance on earth as an Egyptian monarch, it is perhaps not
surprising that English grammar was not included among the sub-
jects he so thoroughly mastered. Denny-Coryell Co., Seattle. —
C. A. M.
wm
270 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
A MAN A killing' and a man-hunt to start with, a handsome villain
OP properly slain to end with, a duel and a prison-cell fairly at
ACTION. the middle — this is but a small part of the entertainment
which Neil Munro provides in Scotland for the French nobleman
whose quest led him to Doom Castle, He has a mystery to solve, a
traitor to unveil, a seducer to punish, and a sweetheart to win — and
acquits himself right manfully at all these tasks. Doubleday, Page
& Co., New York ; C. C. Parker, Iros Angeles. $1.50.— C. A. M.
«
JUST Suppose a flood which inundates the whole earth save one
iSUP- secluded mountain valley and the peaks about it ; suppose a
POSING, solitary pair neither crudely young nor ripely old left in the
valley as the sole survivors of the human race ; suppose also a pros-
pector's cabin stocked with food, tools, seeds of various kind, a well
selected library, and even white muslin dresses ; suppose cows and
chickens and cats and dogs. Then let the man and woman who have
hitherto been but dear friends fall passionately in love. Shall they
attempt to become the founders of a new race ? Or shall they leap
hand in hand from a cliff into the sea which rolls over every other
remnant of human life ? This is the problem which Ellis Meredith
sets in The Master-Knot of Human Fate — ^and leaves the reader to
answer at the end. I^ittle Brown & Co., Boston. $1.25. — C. A. M.
THS DAY Mary Imlay Taylor has taken Boston for the scene and the
OF summer of 1688 for the time of her latest historical novel,
wiTCHKS. Anne Scarlett, The witchcraft crasse is the phase of that
period which Miss Taylor chooses to throw into the foreground, and
the beautiful heroine, whose name gives the story its title, has a
narrow escape from falling victim to that madness. The villain in
this case is a woman of surpassing beauty, whose machinations fail
in the end to prevent the triumph of true love. A. C. McClurg & Co.,
Chicago. $1.25.— C. A. M.
Country Life in America^ of which a "trial number" has just
reached us (its first regular issue will be for November), promises to
be one of the most sumptuous monthlies in existence ; as richly
printed as The World* s Work (printed by the same house) and even
larger. That its contents will tally with its dress is best foretold by
the fact that its editor is Liberty H. Bailey, one of the foremost
living* experts in horticulture, and a man of horizons.
An anonymous writer dedicates to Baudelaire his Book of Jade and
his Endeavor. The poems are clever, ** dickydong," and suggestive
of what Francis Saltus-Saltus did much better. Wm. Doxey, Sign
of the Lark, New York. $1.
AS si$EN Most of us are more or less familiar with the shortcoming's
FROM of municipal government, as seen by the "reformer" pro-
BiSifOW. f essional or amateur. In The World of Grafts Josiah Flynt
gives a very frank study of police methods in certain of our large
cities, as seen by the Under World. Neither passion nor special
pleading appear in this pitiless stripping of civic ulcers. The book
is far from pleasant reading, yet it ought to be read by every citizen
who cares for decency and honor — or even for safety.— McClure,
Phillips & Co., New York. $1.25.— C. A. M.
CoiuJikM by WILLW* E. SMrTHE.
On the fourteenth of September the vast machin- chawgimg
ery of government passed from the hands of one "^^ *^snBS
President into those of another without the
slightest jar or hitch, so far as the system itself is con-
cerned. While the whole nation stood bowed with grief
by the side of its great dead, the burden of administration
fell as noiselessly upon the sturdy shoulders of the new
Executive as dew descends upon the earth. It was another
marvelous demonstration of the strength of those institu-
tions which the fathers planted upon the sure foundation
of popular sovereignty. But although the transition was
effected so smoothly, it is entirely possible that far-reach-
ing changes upon national policy, particularly upon that
of internal development in the Far West, may ensue in
course of time. President McKinley did not live to wit-
ness the rise of new and mighty issues in the domestic life
of the nation which are beginning to cast their shadows
before. It is said that when he entered Congress in 1876
he went to President Hayes and asked him with what poli-
tical issue a young and ambitious statesman could best
afford to identify himself with a view to future usefulness
and distinction. The President suggested the protective
tariff as a subject which must loom into large proportions
in the next ten or twenty years. McKinley took the hint,
made the tariff question the especial object of bis study,
mastered it thoroughly, became the personification and ex-
ponent of it, and rose with it to supreme power and death-
less fame. What that question was as a potential issue in
1876, the problems involved in the wise use of national re-
sources are in 1901 . The protective tariff sheltered Ameri-
can industries until they became supreme in the home
markets and acquired what seems like an almost miracu-
lous ascendancy in the markets of the world. But the
growth of population and wealth coincident with this
development has brought ua face to face with new domestic
questions, the wise solution of which is absolutely essen-
tial, not only to the continuance of prosperity, tnit to the
permanence of the most important characteristics of our
'WOT
272 LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
civilization. We owe our pre-eminence to the fact that we
have been dealing: with a continental item of raw material
— that we have been felling* the forest, turning the soil,
opening the mine, and harnessing the stream. This opera-
tion can go on indefinitely, but only in case we are able to
frame new policies adapted to the new conditions which
now confront us in Western America.
MCKiia,KY But though the late President was not called upon
^^"^ *^^¥EST *^ ^^^^ extensively with these rising issues, his ser-
vice to the West was one of tremendous moment.
Doubtless we shall raise his statue near the Golden Gate,
facing the setting sun, and inscribe upon it a legend to
tell future generations that this is the statesman who gave
to Western America a new world of commerce. It was his
fortune to stand at the helm when the age-long isolation of
the Orient was ended and when the stars and stripes rose
above islands and archipelagoes in the Pacific. It was his
diplomacy which saved China from dismemberment and
thereby won her friendship for the United States. As to
the domestic concerns of the West, while the late Presi-
dent originated no important policies in that regard, the
work of his administration was progressive and in the
right direction. The care of the forests received more at-
tention than ever before. The work was raised to the
dignity of a Bureau in the Agricultural Department, and
the most competent person in the United States for that
undertal{:ing, GifiEord Pinchot, placed at its head. The
reservations under the Interior Department were made
actually eflEective, in many instances, by the appointment
of intelligent superintendents and the adoption of wise
regulations. The work of Irrigation Investigations was
entrusted by Secretary Wilson to the ablest and most ex-
perienced person who could possibly have been chosen —
Elwood Mead — and the result is already seen in reports
which penetrate to the root of existing evils. Hence, the
people of the West, even if they look upon him from the
narrow standpoint of their own selfish interests, may well
bow in sorrow and gratitude at the tomb of our third
martyred President, William McKinley. His name and
fame will bloom immortal among our valleys and mountains
and along the shores of the Pacific Ocean.
RoosBvEvr President Theodore Roosevelt, in his short but in-
•* OF ARID tensely active life, has come into contact with
AM Ri . xnany different phases of the national existence.
He remarked, a few months since, '* Although I am of the
sixth generation born in New York, I belong West of the
Missouri River." He is naturally a man of the Western
20TH CENTURY WEST. 273
temperament — active, impatient of conventions, filled with
the spirit of daring: enterprise. For about ten years he
spent his time largely in North Dakota, near the Montana
boundary, well within the Arid Region. He knows the
problems of irrigation, of the forests, and of the grazing
lands as they were never known or even suspected by any
other President of the United States. He sent a ringing
letter to last year's session of the National Irrigation Con-
gress, in which he put himself squarely on record in favor
of the construction of great public works to reclaim pub-
lic lands. And he also took advantage of the opportunity
to say that such works cannot be built by private capital,
and that it would be undesirable to permit private capital
to engage in it even if such a thing were possible. The
full significance of the accession to the Presidency of a
man having such knowledge of Western needs and re-
sources, and such views of what the national policy should
be respecting them, may only be revealed by events. But
that large class of Western men to whom the cause of irri-
gation is dearer than any party ties, must rejoice that the
man who succeeds our lamented President knows and loves
our beautiful West, and is not ashamed to say so.
During a good portion of last year eight well studies
known experts devoted their best efforts to a study ^^ ^experts
of California irrigation laws from the most prac-
tical standpoint. They did not deal with the matter ab-
stractly, but in the most concrete way, going right out
into the field and studying the actual workings of the laws
on a number of typical streams. Marsden Manson took
the Yuba and J. M. Wilson Cache Creek, in Sacramento
Valley ; C. E. Grunsky, Kings River, and Prank Soule
the San Joaquin in the valley of that name ; C. D. Marx,
the Salinas, in the Coast Region ; E. M. Boggs, the Los
Angeles River, and J. D. Schuyler, the Sweetwater and
Hemet Creek, in Southern California; and William E.
Smythe, the Honey Lake Basin on the Eastern slope of the
Sierra Nevada Mountains. The work was done under the
auspices of the United States government and under the
personal direction of its expert, Elwood Mead. It was an
absolutely impartial investigation. The instructions were
to study the California laws and then trace the results
arising therefrom through the records of appropriations,
lawsuits and decrees, and through a careful study of re-
sults conducted in the field. Elsewhere in these pages is
the first of several papers devoted to a summary of the re-
port. It is not our purpose to anticipate the evidence. We
wish every man and woman in California might read the
report in its entirety, but we know the unpopularity of
274 LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
public documents, even when issued in such handsome
shape as this one. It is likely, therefore, that most people
will become familiar with the report through the summaries
that appear in the press and the public discussion that will
ensue. There are a few general considerations, however,
to which attention should now be directed.
WORTHY OF The report is in no sense special pleading. It was
^^5^«««*^^ written by men of trained intelligence who are
CONFIDENCB. , 1-j.- • J X 'J j.'£ J 'At
not politicians and not identmed with private
interests which they are seeking to put forward. The
head of the investigation is a public man of wide experi-
ence, now representing the United States government. Of
the other experts, four are civil engineers of great reputa-
tion, two are the heads, respectively, of the engineering
departments at Stanford and the University of California,
one is former State Engineer of Nebraska and now regu-
larly employed by the Agricultural Department, and the
other is a journalist and publicist. Their general instruc-
tions were to be absolutely fearless in presenting their con-
clusions. If such a report is not entitled to public confi-
dence it would be interesting to be told under what different
conditions a better report could be expected. While the
investigation deals exclusively with California, it has a
much broader significance for the public. The conditions
existing here are similar in most respects to those prevail-
ing throughout the Arid Region. Moreover, this is the
greatest State in the West and is naturally looked to for
leadership in the adoption of policies that are to rule the
destinies of Western America. The four great points to
be studied in the report are, first, the method of appropria-
ting waters, since this is the foundation of valuable rights;
second, the means by which water is distributed among a
multitude of users ; third, the question of riparian rights ;
fourth, the ownership of water, which involves the vital
matter of water monopoly in a region where this element
is absolutely vital to human existence. The influence of
this report should powerfully assist in the evolution of a
new and better California and in the growth of beneficent
institutions throughout all our Western lands.
puBucAND The discussion of this report will serve to call
^ AM>^LANDS public atteutiott sharply to the fact that irrigation
laws are matters for State legislation and, by the
same token, that national irrigation, whatever its merits
may be, is entirely inadequate to the solution of our water
problems. There is no conflict between State and national
irrigation in the minds of those familiar with the whole
subject. They occupy two distinct spheres of action. We
20TH CENTURY WEST. 275
want the nation to lend its assistance in reclaiming our
public lands. In Nevada, for instance, 95 per cent of all
the soil belongs to the national government. No power
except Congress can legislate concerning it. Present laws
are wholly unsuited to the development of this national
property. We look to the nation to develop policies and
furnish appropriations by which the irrigable portions of
these lands may be made ready for settlement and by which
the timber and grazing districts may be more wisely ad-
ministered. But the control of waters in non-navigable
streams, so far as their appropriation and distribution is
concerned, belongs to the States themselves. The nation
could not deprive them of their rights and obligations in
this respect, nor would it do so if it could. It has troubles
enough of its own. We must ourselves reform the water
laws of the several States and provide good systems of ad-
ministration. But in California the limitations of national
irrigation are much more severe. There are irrigable lands
which belong to the public on the Eastern slope of the
Sierra Nevada Mountains — in Lassen, Modoc, Inyo, and
Mono counties — and in the great deserts of the Mojave
and Colorado. But it is not for the watering of these lands
that California suflFers most keenly today. It is the great
arid districts of Southern California, of the Coast Region,
of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Valleys, that should
be irrigated by the storage of flood water and the econom-
ical distribution of all available supplies. It is here that
the wealth and population of the State are to be multiplied
many-fold. This is the problem which presses close upon
us, the solution of which alone can put an end to present
stagnation in settlement and existing distress in irrigation
districts and other communities harried by endless litiga-
tion. Does national irrigation touch this problem ? Not
at all. These lands are arid or semi-arid and cry aloud for
reclamation. But they are not public lands. They are
private lands, large portions of which have been cultivated,
fenced, and otherwise improved. Does any advocate of
national irrigation imagine that his policy — beneficient as
it will be in other States and, indirectly, to California, as
a means of increasing its trade with the interior — can be
depended upon to furnish water for the private estates of
the South, of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, and of the
Coast Region ? Surely no one can delude himself with a
hope so vain as that. We shall induce the nation to re-
claim the arid public lands, but the construction of great
works for watering the enormous area of private lands
whereon the future millions are to dwell is our own problem,
destined to abide with us for ever.
276 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
BATTi^K OF The forces of cooperation and of competition are
^^^GRowOTs wagringr a battle royal in the raisin districts. The
issue of the conflict is not clear at this writing-,
but its merits are plain enough. No industry on this coast
has been subject to fluctuations more frequent and disas-
trous than that of raisin-growing. It has made fortunes
and ruined fortunes in alternate years. It has been in the
highest degree a speculative crop, its character as such
only enhanced by the fact that comparatively little capital
and time were required to bring a good vineyard into exist-
ence. It was quickly found that the producers " were com-
pletely at the mercy of those who control the market so
long as they were not organized. M. Theo. Kearney
taught them the secret of organization, and made it possi-
ble for them to dictate the price of the crop to the packers.
His original plan went further. He wanted the producers
not only to control the crop, but to own the packing-
houses, so that nothing should stand between them and the
consuming public. Though his policy raised the price of
the product to such an altitude that prosperity was made
universal, he was deposed for a time. After his recall to
leadership, Mr. Kearney made up his mind to put an end
forever to competition in the sale of raisins. A consider-
able proportion of the growers had remained out of the
Association. They were benefited, of course, by the higher
prices, but by keeping out of the organization they were
always in a position to offer their crop to the packers at a
little less than the standard rate, thus taking advantage of
any temporary stagnation in the market, and disposing of
their product in advance of the Association. Mr. Kearney
decided that the way to put a stop to this ruinous system
was to announce that unless practically all the growers
joined the Association, and stood shoulder to shoulder for
mutual protection, the price of raisins should be two cents
a pound. *' And we will all go down into the gutter to-
gether," he boldly proclaimed. On the other hand, if the
growers united the price would be fixed at five cents a
pound, which means prosperity for all. Establishing his
headquarters in New York, he notified the trade that
raisins would sell at two cents shortly unless the growers
signed the leases in response to his appeal. This smashed
the market, as no one would buy at a higher price with this
prospect in view. It cannot be denied that Mr. Kearney's
policy was arbitrary. No more can it be denied that it
was brave, sensible, and framed in the highest interest of
the industry. The Association must rule or go to pieces.
If it goes to pieces, those who wish to buy raisins as
cheaply, and sell them as dearly, as possible will control the
20TH CENTURY WEST, 277
situation. The producers will be at their mercy. Had
they rather be at the mercy of that interest, or at the
mercy of an Association directed by men whose fortunes
are at stake in raisin vineyards and who themselves must
share in the prosperity or disaster which comes to the in-
dustry as a whole ? It seems to us that there cannot be a
moment's question as to which road they should choose.
The raisin business has become too larg^e for the old condi-
tions which existed when the production was small and
when the laws of competition could safely be trusted to
bring a g^ood result. This is the day of large affairs, of
combination. God helps those who help themselves, and
those producers who do not help themselves will soon find
that they need God's help indeed I
About the only important product of the soil and thk
which has not come under the influence of co- ^^^^stoo.
operation in California is wheat. Although it
still persists, and upon a very large scale, this has for
many years seemed like a doomed industry. The constant
cropping to a single cereal has so impoverished the soil
and reduced the yield, the competition of cheap labor in
India, Egypt, and South America, and the introduction of
improved machinery in other lands, has so altered the con-
ditions of the markets, that it appeared as if wheat-grow-
ing might be destined to gradual extinction The friends
of irrigation have hoped that this situation would lead to
a revolution in farming methods, with artificial watering,
subdivision of estates, and diversified production as its
moving forces. But it seems that the wheat-growers will
make an effort to better their conditions through coopera-
tion. Those two strong men of the Sacramento Valley —
N. P. Chipman and Will S. Green — ^have been hinting at
such things for some years. A meeting was recently held
to take steps looking to the organization of something
like a Trust among the wheat-men. The object would be
to put the entire grain product of the' Sacramento Valley
into the hands of one strong organization, with a view to
securing better markets, prices, and transportation facili-
ties. This is certainly an amazing development of the
cooperative spirit, but none the less hopeful on that ac-
count. Such an organization could go to work intelli-
gently to engage ships for moving the crop. The difficul-
ties on that score are now very serious. When the control
of the entire crop is given to a single organization the
ship-owners will find that they aire confronted by " a con-
dition, not a theory." The growers will also be able to
enter the Oriental market and develop it extensively. Very
likely they will effect important economies in storing their
278 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
crop at points of shipment. On the whole, it looks to us
that this gigantic cooperative undertaking may be feasi-
ble, while it is surely encouraging to those who believe in
the principle of union for the common good. If such a re-
sult is realized it will be due to the fact that the wheat-
growers have suffered until they simply had to do some-
thing. This is the invariable experience of humanity. We
learn only through suffering. The god of Progress is
armed with a club.
^ ^^ By the way, there was an interesting ceremony at
^*^^^5J „ the little town of Kingsburg, in the San Joaquin
Valley, a few weeks since. The occasion was the
dedication of the Kingsburg Rochdale Building. Here,
under one roof, are assembled the cooperative store, pro-
fessional and public offices, and the public library. Prac-
tically the entire business of this prosperous community
will be conducted in this building. But it is more than a
business center — it is a social, intellectual, and religious
center. It owes its existence not to kind-hearted million-
aires, but to sensible farmers and workingmen who have
united their capital so that they may work together in the
purchase of their supplies and sale of their products, after
the manner of the Rochdale pioneers, described in Pro-
fessor Fowler's article in the last number of this magazine.
The high ideal animating the Kingsburg people is well
shown by the following extract from President Hallner's
allusion to Rochdale Hall, which forms a part of the build-
ing:
This 18 intended to be a "Faneuil HaU", a "cradle of Uberty"
and we invite the Patrick Henrys and James Otises, the Garrisons,
the Lrovejoys, the WendeU Phillipses, the Lincolns, the Mother
Stewarts and Thompsons, and women crusaders, including* the
Frances Willards and the whole army of the Women's Christian
Temperance Union, and the Dickies, the Woolleys, and the good and
plump Wheat, and our own Professor Fowler — all these and aU
their friends, associates and affinities who only cleave to the pure,
the true and the good.
Just imagine what California would be if brought under
a good system of irrigation, divided into millions of little
farms, and with such ''cradles of liberty" as that at
Kingsburg located in every community I It makes one feel
like exclaiming, with the optimistic poet :
" We'll all be happy yet
You bet ! "
279
How TO Colonize the Pacific Coast.
SECOND PAPER
THE POSSIBILITIES OF COMBINED EFFORT.
^rtHE first paper in this series arrived at the conclusion
^^ that private eflEorts aiming at the colonization of ir-
rigated land have not been generally successful and
cannot be relied upon to solve the question, in any large
sense of the term ; that semi-public agencies, such as rail-
roads and boards of trade. State or local, are useful only
within a restricted sphere; and that the historic successes
in the line of settlement have been accomplished only by
cooperative eflEorts, of which the most notable instances
were the Greeley Colony of Colorado, the Mormon commu-
nities of Utah and other States, and certain famous settle-
ments in Southern California. Hence, if we are to follow
the leading of experience we will adopt the cooperative
method in getting settlers and then proceed to organize
their industrial and social plans after the same successful
model.
This is easy to say, but can it be done ? Is it not en-
tirely impracticable ? Horace Greeley is dead. No one
can now command his influence as the Colorado settlers
did. The Mormon church is active enough, to be sure, but
there are a good many of us who are not prepared to join it
just yet. Men like Judge North and others who took the
lead in Southern California are not to be found every day
in the week. How, then, are we to settle California, and
a dozen other States of the West, by such cooperative
efforts ? No attempt was made to answer that question
last month. It was merely said that that was *' another
story." And here is the other story.
I.
A PROPOSED PLAN OF UNION.
I was invited by General Will S. Green to address a joint
meeting of the Sacramento Valley and San Joaquin Valley
Development Associations on this subject last January.
The meeting drew a large attendance of representative
men, as it was held in Sacramento when the Legislature
was in sessson and on the day that the electoral vote was
cast for President and Vice-President. I opened the de-
bate by introducing the following resolution :
Resolvedy That all the active land interests of California should be
united in an Association for the enlistment and organization of colo-
nists, and that the Association thus formed should proceed with its
work upon the following lines :
280 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
1. There should be an Bzecutive Committee, preferably composed
of iive members, to g^ovem the operations of the Association.
2. There should be employed experts of the highest qualifications
to report upon conditions of soil, water supply, markets, products,
cost of living*, and all other essential facts, before the Association
undertakes the sale of any tract of land.
3. There should be a Publication Department to supervise all ad-
vertising or other printed matter issued with the endorsement of the
Association.
4. There should be a L/ecture Bureau to send competent speakers
throughout the Kast for the purpose of presenting the advantages of
California to prospective homeseekers, with a view of directing
public attention particularly to the lands represented in the Associa-
tion.
5. Colonial clubs should be formed in Eastern cities and towns as
a nucleus for homeseekers and as a basis of permanent organization
for the promotion of settlement, year after year.
6. The Executive Committee should employ the best talent for
planning colonies and townsites, and advising settlers as to industrial
and social arrangements, to the end that settlers may have the ad-
vantage of the experience of other communities.
7. The expense of the Association should be met by subscriptions
to its capital stock, and the terms upon which land is sold should be
such as to return profits to be distributed pro rata among the stock-
holders, while owners of land disposed of would receive their indi-
vidual profits besides.
Aside from the arguments wHicb mifi^lit be made for and
afifainst such a proposal as a business proposition, the reso-
lution requires some explanation in order to make its mean-
ing: entirely clear. Indeed, it covers so much new ground
that I quickly discovered it could not be threshed out in a
single afternoon's debate. It aroused a spirited discussion,
which was participated in by some of the most prominent
men of the State, including General N. P. Chipman, Hon.
W. H. Mills, Arthur R. Briggs, Ben M. Maddox, Senator
Smith, General Green, and many others. Although noth-
ing definite came of the matter, sufficient interest was
manifested to justify a calm presentation of the proposal
in these pages.
It should be said that the plan does not contemplate that
any lands shall be deeded to the Association, or that that
body shall assume the management of land or water prop-
erties. It merely proposes a joint agency to take the
place of many conflicting agencies, and united instead of
scattered effort. It suggests a complete machinery aiming
at the systematic development of a class of settlers for
California and at their organization into colonies after ar-
rival. In obtaining settlers the Association's power would
be quite absolute ; in organizing them afterwards its
work would be merely advisory. The machinery provided
by such a plan as this, while not radically different from
that employed by many companies, is much more perfect
20TH CENTURY WEST. 281
and fax-reaching. In a word, this was intended to be at
least a step in the direction of scientific methods of coloni-
zation.
The chief difficulty in carrying: out such a plan, assum-
ing* that our land interests could be united and sufficient
capital subscribed for the undertaking — an assumption
that is entirely unwarranted — would be to determine which
of the many interests represented should receive the set-
tlers obtained. Naturally, each property-owner would de-
sire to obtain the first settlers, the best settlers, and the
most settlers. To a certain extent, this problem would
solve itself. The lands controlled by the Association
would represent a wide range of prices. One buyer, pre-
ferring cheap land where he could raise alfalfa and cattle,
would be willing to locate some distance from a railroad.
Another buyer would prefer high-priced orange land and
the best social advantages. Furthermore, some settlers
would insist on Southern California ; others would prefer
the San Joaquin or Sacramento. The Association would
be able to accommodate all of these varying tastes. To
this extent the land-owners in the Association would not
come into conflict. But we should not be entirely de-
pendent on the individual tastes of settlers to prevent us
from getting into trouble on this score.
The Colonial Clubs would be scattered throughout many
States and hundreds of cities and towns. The Executive
Committee might arbitrarily assign some of these clubs to
certain companies or colonies. Let us say, for instance,
that General Green has a colony at Colusa and Mr. Briggs
another at Fresno. The Executive Committee informs
General Green that he shall have the exclusive benefit of
the Colonial Clubd in and around Des Moines, Iowa, and
notifies Mr. Briggs that he shall enjoy a like privilege at
Ann Arbor, Michigan. While they might not be able to
control the matter entirely, they could do so in a large de-
gree, while as stockholders they would enjoy a share of the
profit in all lands sold by the Association throughout the
State.
Let us look at the plan now on broader lines.
11.
th:^ faii^ure of prksknt methods.
The first justification for the presentation of such a
plan is that we are not now colonizing California success-
fully. Some of the richest land companies in the State
have expended very large sums in the effort and made al-
most a total failure. We indulge in lamentation over our
great estates and the backwardness of irrigation in certain
282 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
localities, but if it were possible to furnish the owners of
these estates with the assurance that buyers could be found
in any considerable numbers they would proceed to sub-
divide their lands and to irrig-ate them quickly. The fact
is that the settler is not forthcoming. Hence, it is ^ worth
while to consider any proposal which has merit, even if it
is not all that could be desired.
The competitive method on which we have so far relied
to obtain settlers is fraught with many dangers. Rivalry
in land-selling leads to the wholesale depreciation of one
locality by the friends of another locality. The result is
injury to the whole State. Since the advantages of Cali-
fornia are so striking as almost to challenge belief, it is
very easy to discredit your rival's proposition. This has
often happened, not only as between individuals and com-
panies, but as between large sections of the commonwealth.
The result is that the Eastern public does not know what
to believe, but is inclined to set down Californians as a
perverse generation.
The State is also badly injured by irresponsible parties
who advertise untruths and seek to unload propositions
utterly without merit. Many a sad story could be written
under this head, recounting the losses of trusting settlers.
While the promoters of such projects have seldom realized
profits in the end, the State has always suffered from their
operations.
The expense involved in advertising fifty enterprises
separately and in conducting fifty separate agencies, to
say nothing of the injurious effects of cut-throat competi-
tion already mentioned, is a considerable handicap. It is
the old story of a dozen milkmen serving customers on the
same street, maintaining a dozen teams and traversing
exactly the same ground, when a single individual or firm
could render the same service with greater economy and
efficiency. The Eastern field in which settlers are to be
sought is enormous. Competition means that it cannot be
handled effectively except at vast expense.
Scientific colonization requires the services of expert
minds in several different directions. The average enter-
prise simply cannot afford to employ them. It must there-
fore take dangerous chances, and a wise head has remarked
that *'in such cases you may be sure that all the contin-
gencies will con tinge."
Finally, the first and last essential of successful coloniza-
tion is public confidence. This confidence the present
method has entirely failed to command. Companies with
millions of capital have failed to impress the homeseeking^
public with the belief that their statements were absolutely
20TH CENTURY WEST. 283
reliable and that they could be trusted to show them the
way to prosperity.
For these reasons the present method of individual and
scattered efforts is so nearly a total failure, both in enlist-
ing settlers and in organizing: their industrial plans, that
it cannot be relied upon to effect broad and enduring results
in the colonization of Western lands.
III.
MERITS OF THE PROPOSED PI*AN.
The proposition is to bring all the active land interests
of California into a single organization, as a means of
securing their hearty cooperation in obtaining large num-
bers of settlers over a period of years. The administra-
tion of the work would be entrusted to a small Executive
Committee — the smaller the better. This would at once
eliminate competition and all the evils arising therefrom.
California would present a solid front to the homeseeking
public.
Under this plan not a single acre of bad or dubious soil
could be offered for sale. The chance of mistakes in re-
gard to water supply for irrigation would be reduced to the
minimum, because experts of the highest ability^ could
readily be employed by the combination. Competent statis-
ticians would report on markets, products, and cost of
living. Experienced superintendents would advise settlers
how to proceed with improvements. In all these vital
matters we should be building upon a foundation of ascer-
tained facts and exact information, instead of working in
the dark, as now.
All publications and advertising matter would be pre-
pared under one central head. This would effect a great
economy, while permitting the service of the ablest men,
even of men of reputation. This would add enormously to
the influence of such *' literature." There would then be no
excuse for wild, misleading statements. The responsibility
would be centered.
The plan for a Lecture Bureau and formation of a far-
reaching system of Colonial Clubs is not at all impracti-
cable. It has been used successfully and more than one
flourishing colony stands as a living monument of its feasi-
bility. It is a method which appeals powerfully to the
public. They like to meet the sponsors of a colony scheme
face to face. There are few subjects which possess more
elements of human interest, or offer more opportunities to
the intelligent speaker. Furthermore, it is easier to talk
effectively to a hundred people than to one. There is a
spirit about the thing not easy to explain, but always
284 LANO OF SUNSHINE.
deeply felt by speaker and audience. Then such meetings
advertise themselves very thoroughly. "Go West, young
man," is still a magic phrase of much potency. I know
from my own experience that more can be accomplished
from the lecture platform in six weeks than can be done
from a real estate office in six months — I had almost said
six years.
Neither is there any difficulty about forming the clubs.
A large element of every community stands ready to join
anything, especially if little or no expense attaches to the
operation. While the real estate office appeals principally
to the pocket-nerve, the lecture and club cater to the social
instincts as well. I undertake to say that with anything
like an effective consolidation of land interests in Cali-
fornia, with reasonable moral and financial backing, not
less than 100,000 people could be enrolled in Colonial Clubs
within a year. Of these, not less than 10,000 would be
buyers and immediate settlers, and from 10,000 to 20,000
more would purchase places on installments and have them
improved while remaining at their trades and professions.
All the rest would be good advertisers for California and
serve to keep the clubs alive, thus furnishing permanent
channels for lectures and literature.
And the expense ? That would be a matter for careful
calculation, but probably $50,000 would make a fair test of
the system. This capital would be raised by stock sub-
scription, or, possibly, in part by donations. A good many
counties might be willing to contribute. The Association
would make contracts with its members for the sale of their
land upon such a margin of profit as to meet all the ex-
penses of the work and leave a dividend for stockholders.
While the landowner would look chiefly to the sale of his
own property for his pecuniary benefit, he would also share
the profits upon every acre of land disposed of, since he
would be a stockholder in the Association. It is possible
that a plan might be framed by which profits would be
equalized, regardless of the locality in which sales were
made.
The chief advantage of the proposed method lies not in
the economy which it would effect, nor even in the very
great degree of efficiency which would come from the pro-
vision of such complete machinery. The transcendent
merit lies in the fact that it would absolutely compel public
respect and confidence. Behind it would stand the com-
bined influence of California. Press and people would
vouch for it everywhere. No purely^ private enterprise
could compete with this semi-public undertaking, repre-
20TH CENTURY WEST. 285
senting the organized effort of California to colonize its
vacant lands upon a basis of perfect good faith.
The reader will ask : ''Assuming that such an organiza-
tion could be made and operated successfully, so that
abundant settlers were found, how do you propose to organ-
ize them into colonies and thus realize the advantages
which cooperative efforts have brought elsewhere ? The
test of colonization is, of course, not merely getting the
people, but making them prosperous after they are obtained,
so that the work of settlement may go on indefinitely."
That is a very pertinent question, which will be dealt
with in the next paper of this series.
W. E. S.
[to be continued.]
The Struggle for Water.
THE ORIGIN OF RIGHTS AND DISTRIBUTION OF SUPPLIES
^rtHIS report* is the most substantial result yet achieved
\ by the new branch of the Agricultural Department
known as Irrigation Investigations. It was made
possible by the cooperation of the California Water and
Forest Association, whose Finance Committee, under the
chairmanship of Mr. Timothy Hopkins, raised several
thousand dollars to supplement the appropriation of Con-
gress for the purpose. It is probably not extravagant to
say that the publication of the work marks the first im-
portant stage of the battle for the reform of the water laws
of California — a battle that must go on unceasingly, re-
gardless of all obstacles, until the great result shall be
fully accomplished and this first of Western States provided
with institutions suited to its highest development.
The report makes a beautiful volume of nearly 500 pages,
copiously illustrated with maps and pictures. The fact
that it has cost the Government about $6.00 per copy for
mechanical production, not counting the expense of the
investigations themselves, testifies to its excellence as a
matter of paper and printing. The first edition is small
and will be in great demand. It is to be hoped that further
editions will be called for and authorized in time. And it
would be well if large editions of pamphlets, made up of
separate reports, could be printed and thoroughly dis-
tributed in the various localities covered by the discussion.
The introductory report by the Expert in Charge deals with
*** Irrigation Investiffmtions in California," Bulletin No. 100, U. S. Dex>artment
of Airricnltnre, Office of Experiment Station, 1901.
286 LAND OF SUNSHiNE.
the entire situation on broad lines, enforcing its discussion
of California problems with facts and illustrations drawn
from the experience of the world at large. A pamphlet
edition of this introduction ought to be supplied to every
irrigator and public man in the State.
The investigation was made, according to the title-page
of the report, under the direction of Elwood Mead, assisted
by William E. Smythe, Marsden Manson, J. M. Wilson,
Charles D. Marx, Frank Soule, C. E. Grunsky, Edward M.
Boggs, and James D. Schuyler. None of the parties con-
cerned in its authorship are inexperienced or unknown in
this field of labor. All of them have been identified for
many years with irrigation thought and practice, and not
one of them could afford to give anything less than the
very best of which he was capable to a discussion of this
sort, conducted under the direct auspices of the national
Government.
While each of the experts, except Mr. Mead, dealt with
a particular stream, all worked upon a uniform plan. They
were instructed to take the present water laws of California
as the basis of their discussion, to observe how these laws
had worked in their practical application to the irrigation
industry in the locality they were considering, and what
reforms, if any, are required to bring the use of water
under more intelligent and successful management here-
after. This program made it necessary for each expert to
discuss many different aspects of the water question.
Among the most important were the following: How should
water be appropriated? — a most vital question because
the method of acquiring it originally goes to the very
foundation of a stable water right. How should water be
distributed in order to avoid incessant conflict among a
multitude of users from the same stream ? How should
water be owned — by the person who makes the appropria-
tion, by the canal which conveys it, by the irrigator who
applies it to the soil, or should it be inalienably attached
to the soil itself ? Are riparian rights consistent with the
best use of water in an arid land ? Would the private
ownership of water apart from land, obtained either
through appropriation or riparian rights, involve a
monopoly of this natural element, and, if so, would such
a monopoly be a dangerous influence in the social and
economic life of the State ? By what form of enterprise —
private or public. State or national — can the storage and
distribution of flood waters be effected to the best advantage
of the community at large ?
In no way except by reading the report in its entiret)',
with its wealth of facts drawn from the experience of dil-
20TH CENTURY WEST. 287
ferent localities and interpreted by the patient skill of the
experts, can the reader grasp the full significance of these
vital questions and the answers supplied in this work, of
about 250,000 words. But in the brief summaries prepared
for this magazine the effort will be to present the most
salient evidence and conclusions.
I. — THE ORIGIN OF A WATER RIGHT.
The law says that "the right to the use of running
water flowing in a river or stream or down a canon or
ravine may be acquired by appropriation." Leaving aside
for the present the manner in which this statute is largely
nullified by the riparian doctrine, upheld by the decisions
of the highest court, let us consider the origin of water
rights as laid down in the words quoted from the statute.
How is water appropriated under this plan ? By posting
a notice " in a conspicuous place at the point of intended
diversion," stating how much water is claimed, the pur-
pose and place for which it is intended to be used, and the-
means by which it is to be diverted. Within ten days the
notice must be recorded in the office of the County Re-
corder, who must keep a book for the purpose.
Only this and nothing more! The right to use the water
on which the existence of your farm depends — hence, the
ability to support your family — rests solely upon this so-
called " law of appropriation." How do you know there is
surplus water in the stream to which you can properly lay
claim? You cannot know — can only guess at it. But
supposing the entire supply has already been appropriated,
even more than appropriated ; can you still file your notice
and proceed just as if this were a virgin stream and nobody
lived within a thousand miles of you ? Certainly ; there
is nothing to prevent. Nobody has ever measured the
stream ; nobody knows how much has been claimed, nor
how much is actually applied to beneficial use. There has
been a popular inquiry Of late as to the exact definition of
'* anarchy." The word means **want of government."
And our present method of appropriating water is a perfect
illustration of anarchy as applied to the most fundamental
need of the community in an arid land. There is this
little statute which pretends to give everybody a right to
appropriate water, and then a total *' want of government"
in carrying it. out or protecting the rights it originates.
The whole thing rests upon nothing but force when it is
followed to its last analysis. You take the water if you
can get it into your headgate, regardless of your neighbor's
needs or rights. You keep the water if you can hold your
own headgate open and your neighbor's shut. There are
288 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
places in California where this is accomplished by the use
of shotg^uns and organized terrorism. You take the matter
into the courts, but it is still the arbitrament of force,
though of a different kind. It is financial force now in-
stead of physical. Not that the courts are corrupt — no
such impression is intended to be conveyed for an instant —
but that they have no basis upon which to decide anything.
Without knowing how much water there is in the stream
and how much has been applied to beneficial use, how can
the court possibly know when prior rights are infringed
upon? Besides, what is ''beneficial use," within the
meaning of the law ? How much water is required to irri-
gate land in California ? If you are using too much you
are not making beneficial use, but, on the other hand, are
making injurious use and the whole community is the
loser. There is no accepted unit of so much water to so
much land by which beneficial use can be passed upon by
the court. You can litigate and litigate, but litigation
cannot lead to justice, save by mere accident, under such
circumstances. The man with the longest purse, who can
hire the most lawyers and employ the largest array of ex-
pert witnesses, can win in the end, because he can have the
cause tried again and again until at last all opposition is
exhausted. And that is equivalent to government by force
rather than by law.
It is upon such a foundation that the best and oldest
rights in California are resting today. Vested interests
are often quoted in opposition to reform. But vested in-
terests are the ones, above all others, that are imperiled
by existing conditions. No man can go to bed at night and
he, sure that when he arises he will not have to employ
attorneys and use his last dollar to defend the water right
on which the value of his property entirely depends. He
may be rich, but other men are richer yet, and there is not
a water right in the State which may not be attacked upon
some ground. Judicial precedents count for little or noth-
ing. They are like weather-cocks, now pointing north,
now south, and constantly veering to all points of the com-
pass. The trouble is that the foundation of water rights
is on shifting sands, rather than on the bed-rock of exact
information and eternal justice.
Slender as the law of appropriation is at best, it could
not be obeyed to any advantage. Posting a notice at "a
conspicuous place" near the point of diversion does not
secure publicity, because streams are not diverted, as a
rule, at conspicuous places. Such diversions are generally
made in willow thickets or among rugged hills remote from
20TH CENTURY WEST. 289
highways. Filing the claims with recorders is equally in-
effective. A stream may flow through several counties, so
that the total claims could not be found at any one place.
It was discovered that in one of the most conspicuous
counties (Los Angeles) the records were not kept in a
book by themselves until quite recently, but scattered
through the miscellaneous records, so that trying to find
them was like searching for a needle in a haystack. Even
if the records had been perfectly kept and considerable
publicity secured little good would have resulted, since no
method was provided for showing what appropriations had
been followed up by construction and then by beneficial
use. Neither was there any system of enforcing compli-
ance with the claims. To the anarchy of the appropria-
tion method was added the utter chaos of records and entire
lack of all supervision.
What were the practical results ? Every stream was
over-appropriated, many times the total flow being usually
claimed. In one of the northern valleys, where, at the
utmost, the supply would suffice for 150,000 acres, enough
water was " appropriated" to irrigate over 200,000,000
acres. On the San Joaquin River the amount claimed was
172 times the normal flow. Similar abuses were found on
every stream within the scope of the investigation, while
the grotesque and misleading terms in which the claims
were couched were so numerous that it would require a good
part of this magazine to reproduce them. For instance,
one man claimed *'the entire flow of the San Joaquin
from its surface to the center of the earth." His point of
diversion was ^'immediately opposite a white oak tree on
the right bank of the stream." A man on the Los An-
geles river served notice that he appropriated " 3,000
miners' inches under a 4-inch pressure, to be taken out in
a pipe 1/4 inches in diameter."
Absurd ? No, tragical I All sense of humor is sub-
merged in the sea of litigation that arises from this pre-
posterous method of establishing rights to the most pre-
cious of all elements of natural wealth in an arid land. It
is calculated that on the Kings River alone $40,000 has
been annually expended for litigation during the past ten
years. And nobody is any better ofif than at the beginning.
The same amount of money would pay four per cent inter-
est on $1,000,000. The wise investment of the latter sum
would water every acre in controversy and thousands of
acres besides. Men would save their money to improve
their homes instead of wasting it in fruitless lawsuits.
The present conditions are pitiable, shameful, intolerable.
290 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
II. THE DISTRIBUTION OF WATER — ^AND GRIEF.
But little Space is required to discuss the California law
i:overnin^ the distritmtion of water. There is no such
law. Yet in other arid lands this is one of the most essen-
tial features of administrative systems. The French have
a maxim to the effect that if g-ovemment did not exist, it
would be absolutely necessary to create g^overnment in
order to provide for the distribution of water in an arid
land Here each irrigator and canal-owner is a law unto
himself. All are Ishmaelites — every man^s hand is ag^ainst
every other man, since all are engaged in the fierce struggle
for the precious element which is the life-blood of the
State.
Here, again, the costly litigation often fails of its object.
It is decreed, for instance, that A shall have one-half of
the stream when B does not need it. Who is to say what
constitutes ** one-half?" And, worse than that, who is to
say when B ^* does not need it V* A probably thinks that
B does not need it at all, but B thinks he needs it all the
time. More trouble among the neighbors, more lawsuits,
frequently punctuated by brief but annoying remarks from
shotguns. There are places where private arsenals are
maintained to facilitate the peaceful distribution of the
water supply. It is not always so bad as this, but it is
always bad enough, and so it will continue to be until the
people of California are able to rise to the level of India
and Egypt in the appropriation and distribution of water.
In future numbers we shall get some further revelations
concerning the nature and operation of the California
water laws. Then we shall see the sweeping remedies for
this state of things proposed by the unanimous judgment
of the expert investigators.
The Desert Translated
NB hundred years hence the newspaper scribes of the Pacific
Coast will be engaged in telling- the wonderful things which
marked the course of the twentieth century. Taking down
from their dusty shelves in cobwebbed nooks of public libra-
ries the records of the long-gone year of 1901, they will discover
prominent notices of an event precisely contemporaneous with the
birth of the century they are describing. And then they will pro-
ceed to write something like this :
** What is now the scene of the densest population in Cal-
ifornia, on New Year's Day one hundred years ago, was
one of the most forsaken and desolate spots in all the
West. We ask our readers to put forth the utmost efforts of
their imagination and endeavor to see the wide-stretching Delta
of the Colorado River as it appeared in the time of our ances-
tors. Remove for the moment, if you can, the great city in
the heart of this marvelous plain, the scores of villages and
THE DESERT TRANSLATED.
Thb Virgin Dbsbkt. (Imperial Valley
's Old Soro-liiim, ImperJal Talley
292 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
ha.mlets that mark th« horizon on every hand, the long, shaded
avenues leading: out through the country in all directions. Iniagine
that the three great railways now traversing- the Imperial valley,
and the elaborate network of electric lines, never existed. Rub out
for the instant the miles — the tens of miles — of garden, field, and
orchard. Close your eyes to the thousands of homes, sugar factories
and other industries — in a word, take away the entire fabric of civili-
zation as it now exists in that wonderful region and try to think of it
as it was when the sun rose over the Sastem mountains on January
1, 1901.
"No railroads, no homes, no factories, no fields or orchards, and —
no water 1 Silence and desolation I A place so barren that even the
coyote shunned it as a hopeless waste i And yet in the first year of
the century now dead and gone, the great river was turned from its
channel, and broad canals bore its waters into the heart of the desert.
And, lo ! men came to plant and to build, to live and to rear
their children, to break the silence of desolation with voices of
industry, and to make the barren waste blossom with all the tieauties
of EMen. One of the great achievements of the century, it has now
become so large a part of the very foundation on which our social
and economic life is builded, that it is scarcely possible to conceive
of Southern California without it. And yet it is related of some
of our ancestors, who must have been stupid fellows indeed,
that they persisted to the last that the undertaking was visionary,
and that where the desert then was human beings could never live
because of the heat and drought."
Such will be the reflections of those unborn scribes, the writers of
the year 2001. Over and over they will tell the story of how the
desert was translated. A million acres of fertile soil, and water
enough in the Colorado river to irrigate it all without storage ! It is
a situation which cannot be duplicated in the world. Is it any won-
der that it flourishes ?
L Canal SysTBu
mbcr 13, VSl—Dlti Los Anselcs, Cai., October 13. 1WI.
Santa Rosa-~The Flower City-
Sonoma County, Cal.
|tt|MHB first railroads in California followed the central valley,
NS'I • running through the State from north to aouth^the line of
^ least resistance and the quickest and largest profits. They
came in with the transition of the State from an era of gold
to a golden age of agriculture. They were the first to make known
to the outside world, by systematic and effective methods, the re-
markable climate and agricultural range of the country from whence
they drew their local support. By these efforts thousands were at-
tracted to the State, and many travelers and tourists became perma-
nent residents of California from what they saw of it in transit.
But, they do not cover the whole State. The ocean coast north of
San Francisco trends rapidly to the west, widening the distance tie-
tween the Sacramento Valley and the Pacific Ocean. Four of the
largest, richest and least known of the counties of California are
situated in this district. The combined areas of the coast counties
Marin, Sonoma, Mendocino and Humboldt is equal to many States.
They front for over two hundred miles on the ocean, extending in-
land to the east for one hundred miles. They are sparsely popu-
lated and comparatively undeveloped, but even as they are, produce
more wealth per capita than any other counties in the State. Gener-
ally speaking, this rich and inviting section is known only to those
abroad whose attention was directed to its advantages through pri-
vate sources, or to those who had some special reason to investigate
its varied advantages.
The coast counties differ in climate, soil, mode of culture, flora
and other products, from the interior. The annual rainfall is greater.
The season of growth is longer. No irrigation is necessary. There
are no droughts. The dry years in the interior are bonanza years on
the coast' — prices are high and the yield is enormous. Crops are
more frequently hurt by too much than by too little rain. The red-
wood, the most valuable of all American forest products, here finds
its natural home. A continuous redwood forest stretches along the
ocean front of the Northwest coast for two hundred miles, a timber
belt of unsurpassed magnificence and
of incalculable commercial value. Indi-
viduals of this family of trees attain a
height of three hundred and fifty feet, a
diameter of twenty feet and a circum-
ference of sixty feet. Their average di-
ameter is from ten to fifteen feet or. the
beat land.
The earth, air and ocean, three of the
most powerful forces in nature, combine
for the support of a redwood forest. This
accounts for the sise of the trees and the
great number that grow on an acre of
^nd. They possess the power, more than
other trees, of condensing moisture from
the atmosphere, especially the fogs which
prevail along the coast in summer. No
one can witness without surprise and ad-
miration the attractive power of a red-
wood forest on a summer fog. Detached
clouds of mist rise as if startled from the
sea, float inland and creep through the
foliage, quickly followed by denser mas-
ses, and soon every leaflet is dripping
with moisture, distilled from the sea ot
vapor in which the forest is submerged. Sbcohd-Giowth Redwoods.
300 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
This process is repeated day after day during the summer season, and
tons of water, lifted by this system of aerial hydraulics, are distributed
through every nook and comer of the forest. The trees appear like
specters supporting the gray canopy of mist above them. The
silence is broken only by the scarcely audible sound of the absorption
and assimilation of the volatilized overflow of the sea upon the
land. The temperature of the fog is SS degrees. It disappears on
reaching the open land or stands aa a wall on the outer edge of the
forest. The clear air beyond the fog-line carries unseen moisture to
all plant life in its path, until, stripped of its humidity, it merges
with the overheated atmosphere of the interior valleys as a cool and
invigorating breeze.
The redwood splits true. It does not warp. When wet it will not
easily burn. Thoroughly soaked it is almost wholly fireproof. It
contains no resin. The residence portion of San Francisco is built
of redwood. There sre square miles of houses close together. There
has never been a conflagration in the resident district, because a fire
Russian Riveh CaRon. Phoio. by Sliaw.
does not spread rapidly. One building will not readily ignite from
another. San Francisco was three times destroyed by fire when
built of Kastern pine before the redwood came in, or its immense
value as building material was known. Never, since. A railroad tie
or other detached redwood bolt thoroughly ignited over its entire
surface, if left to itself will go out, charred on the outside and
sound in the center. It is the most durable wood known, fences
forty and even fifty years old are as sound as when built. The second
growth of trees from which these first rails were made are over a
hundred feet high, and other rails could be split from them. The
butt-cut of a red wood tree is very close grained. Green it barely floats
in the water ; seasoned it takes on a beautiful polish with the rich
color of mahogany. Kxcepting only flooring, it is the best known
material for house building from mudsill to redwood shingle roof,
including doors, ornamental panel work and balustrades. It makes
the best and most lasting railroad ties. The road over the South
American Andes, crossing the hip of the volcano of Chimtxiraxo, is
now building on redwood ties from the Northwest c( "
California.
SANTA ROSA-SONOMA COUNTY. 301
Eel River and Russian River valleys are the largest in the coast
counties. The former runs northward to Humbolt Bay. Russian
River valley runs southvrard. fronting' on the Bay of San Francisco.
It lies east of the timber belt of Mendocino and Sonoma counties. It
is one hundred and thirty miles long and has an average width of
ten miles. Its soil is fertile, its scenery diversified and beautiful.
It has long been noted for its production of Indian corn, which yi*>ld3
sixty bushels to the acre without irrigation. This fact is mentioned
as a witness for the soil and climatic conditions, there being no other
section of the State where this crop grows without irrigation. All
other cereals, stone, seed and citrus fruits, the grape, the olive and
especially Ijerries yield large returns. The foothills have a milder
climate than the valleys and are equally productive. There is an
annual citrus fair at Cloverdale, in Russian River valley, at which
oranges, lemons and other semi-tropical fruits equal to any grown in
the State are exhibited.
On account of its projection west, the northwest coast receives a
heavy rainfall. The rain-bearing winds from the south first strike
the northwest coast and seem to advance from north to south, though
At thb Mouth of Russian River. Pholo. by Sliaw.
actually reaching the coast from the south. The precipitation of
rain increases as the coast trends to the northwest and diminishes as
it receeds southeasterly. The northwest coast is two hundred and
fifty miles west of Southern California— hence its greatly increased
rainfall. The average annual rainfall in the northwest coast
counties is forty inches. The least precipitation in eighteen years of
record was greater tlian the annual average in many parts of the
State. The season of rain extends from the first of October to the
first of July. There are but three months in which rain does not
fall — July, August and September. The hills are green until July
and the valleys in some parts the entire year. The mean winter
temperature is equivalent to that of May on the Atlantic coast.
The California Northwestern company runs its trains for one
hundred and twelve miles through the center of the northwest coast
counties. An extension of thirty miles further inland will be com-
pleted and running by the first of the incoming year. It is said to
be the heaviest freight carrying road in proportion to its length of
any road in the United States. .This may be well believed by those
who are familiar with the vast t'esources of the country through
which the road runs. Three trains leave the Ferry depot in San
302 LAND OF SUtVSHINE.
Francisco every day for the terminus of the road in Mendocino
county, returning in the afternoon. Local trains leave the same
depot every hour for nearer points on the line of the road. The new
lerminua at Willets, in Mendocino county, is within live miles of a
great redwood forest and will be the center of a large and important
lumber manufacturing' interest, offering great inducements for settle-
ment and business enterprise.
Santa Rosa ia the largest city west of the Sacramento river and
north of San Francisco. It is the natural capital of the northwest
coast. It has a population of eight thousand and double thatnumtier
live within a radius of a few miles. It is the county seat of Sonoma,
the largest, most populous and wealthiest of the coast counties. It
is the distributing point and ra.ilroad center of the northwest coast.
Twenty trains arrive and depart from Santa Rosa every day, con-
necting it with all parts of the county, the interior of the State, San
Francisco, Sacramento, the overland trains for the East, Oregon, the
Sound cities and British Columbia. The topographical features of a
country do not change, however great the change upon the surface.
Across the Roofs dp Sakta Rosa. Pbolo. by Sbaw.
The old Indian and Spanish trails to and from the coast counties
crossed at Santa Rosa just as the railroads of today meet there as a
center of travel and traffic. It is the only direct railroad pass from
the coast to the Sacramento valley, to the East, and Eastern markets.
Santa Kosa is connected with San Francisco by two lines of rail-
road—the California Northwestern and the Southern Pacific. Be-
side its railroads, thanks to a progressive Board of Supervisors,
an excellent system of public roads radiate from Santa Rosa to all
parts of the county.
Sonoma is the most diversified in its products of all the counties of
this State. Its superficial area is one million acres. It is bounded
on the south by the bay of San Francisco, on the west by the Pacific
ocean, on the north by Mendocino county, and on the east by the
Mayacmas range of mountains.
At least half the area of the county is valley or foothill land. In
the foothills are tracts of alluvial soil which equal the valleys in
fertility ; they are warmer, drier and lielter for many purposes than
valley lands. The finest wine grapes, citrus fruits, olives, apples
SANTA ROSA-SONOMA COUNTY. 303
and nuts are grown in the foothills. Of the land suited for the
(,'rowth of staple crops, grapes, olives, fruit and berries, not one-half
IB under cultivation, leaving a vast field for future development.
The population of the county is forty thousand, mostly engaged in
agricultural pursuits. Its assessed wealth is $29,000,000. Its annual
production of wealth from the soil is $7,500,000. This is one hundred
and seventy-five dollars per capita for every inhabitant, including
women, children and all othernon-producera. Or to put it another
way, it is nine hundred dollars a year for every registered voter in
the county.
The view of the great central valley of Santa Hosa, especially from
the coast hills opposite its bach ground of encircling mountains is of
vast extent and beauty. The central setting in this landscape is St. ,
Helena, visible tar out to sea, a conspicuous land mark in Northern
California, blue as the ocean It overlooks or the sky whose color it
reflects,
Russia was once anxious to plant its cushioned claws in the soil of
Northern California, and ^
A Sonoma Wbest Fieui.
aggressive ambition and skillful diplomacy of that powerful nation.
Just before their departure from Ross, the Russian settlement on
the cost of Sonoma, in 1841, Wossenessky, a naturalist, ascended the
mountain, attached a lead plate to its summit bearing the day and
date of the ascent and the name Helena which he bestowed upon the
mountain in honor of his Imperial mistress, the Empress of Russia,
thus marking the end of an unequalled march of conquest and
colonization extending from the Ural Mountains in European Asia
through Siberia to Alaska and thence to the northwest coast of Cali-
In the morning shadow of St. Helena the spires and domes of
Santa Rosa peer through the trees and foliage in which the city is
half hidden. The surrounding' level lands and terraced foothills are
covered with orchards and vineyards. Three of the largest wineries
in the State are in Sonoma county, two of which are in or near Santa
Kosa. They have made the wines of Sonoma as famous as the
Falemian of ancient, or the Chianti of modem Italy. At the late
exposition in Paris Sonoma wine was excluded from competition on
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
In t
; the European wine-growers afraid of a &
a technicalit7. Wei
paralive teat ?
Just west of Santa Rosa is the Gold Ridg^ country, where the tiest
apples, berries, stone and seed fruits in the State are grown. It is
tifteen miles in letig'th by a width of six miles, and is one hundred
feet above the level of Santa Rosa valley, which it parallels and
bounds for fifteen miles on the west. Its soil is a rich sandy loam,
apparently of marine origin, naturally drained and easily cultivated.
Apples are a very profitable crop on this fruit ridge. They produce
with proper care and culture forty t>oxea to the tree, worth from
thirty-five to seventy-five cents a box. There are eighty trees on an
acre. The yield is readily fig'ured, and runs into hundreds of dollars
per acre. Prunes yield from one hundred and fifty to two hundred
dollars per acre, and berries one hundred and fifty dollars per acre.
The experimental farm of Luther Burbank, "the Wizard of the
Garden," is on this ridge, though his home is in Santa Kosa.
SANTA ROSA-SONOMA COUNTY. 307
On the coast south of Gold Ridge there is a district of low rolling*
hills, open to the sea, bare of trees and covered with a rich sward of
native grass, green, or nearly so, the year round. Some of the
largest creameries and dairy farms in the State are situated in this
ideal dairy country.
Sonoma is a well-watered county. Through all its valleys there
are running streams proportioned in volume to the catchment which
supplies them. Russian River, the largest in the county, enters it
from Mendocino, flows southeasterly for twenty miles, turns west, and
finds its way to the Pacific Ocean through a depression in the Coast
range. The streams of the smaller valleys, for twenty miles north
and an equal distance south, flow into and through its channel to the
sea. Excepting Petaluma, Sonoma and the Gualala valleys, it drains
the entire county. There are innumerable springs of fresh and
mineral water in the county. Among the latter the more noted are
the Greysers, Lytton and Taylor's White Sulphur Springs near Santa
Rosa.
One of the remarkable topographical features of the county is the
canon through which Russian River flows to the sea. The tallest
and largest redwood trees in the State originally grew on the bottom
lands of this canon.
It is a valley through the Coast range rather than a canon in the
strict sense of that much abused Spanish word. The fall from where
the river enters the depression to the sea is not more than sixty feet
in a distance of twenty miles. It is not rugged or precipitous, but
bold and picturesque. The air is cool and bracing. An August
morning in this valley can only be compared with the few days on
the Atlantic slope, when all nature throbs with the burst of spring.
Five thousand people from San Francisco and other parts of the
State summered there during the months of July and August of the
present year. Here the Grove of Bohemia, the summer camp of the
Bohemian Club of San Francisco, is situated.
The cultivation of the olive, and manufacture of its products, is an
increasing industry in Sonoma County. It now has one hundred
thousand trees, mostly in bearing. Olive oil made in Sonoma county
took a gold medal at the Paris Exhibition and the first prize at the
World's Fair at Chicago. It took thirty years for the Californians
to learn the art of making and ripening wine. It may take some
time for them to learn how to make olive oil at a price which will
compete with the cheaper manufacture of Europe ; but American
ingenuity will in the end accomplish it. The export of olive oil from
Sonoma will then be among its largest products.
There is a considerable quicksilver production in Sonoma. One
mine near Guemeville has been successfully worked for twenty
years, and there are other mines of great promise near the Geyser
Spring in course of development.
One of the most profitable industries in Sonoma county is poultry
raising. It yields an annual product of $2,000,000 a year, of which
more than one half is shipped from Petaluma. This large sum is
cash on the nail every day for the amount sold. Ivike the nimble
nickel or compound interest it runs quickly into dollars by the thou-
sands. Petaluma is an up-to-date town with an important manufact-
uring interest, a large commerce and many beautiful homes. It is
divided in its midst by a navigable estuary leading inland from the
Bay of San Pablo. Twice in every twenty-four hours the tides of
the Pacific ebb and flow through the city. It is but thirty miles by
water from Petaluma to San Francisco. It is especially noted as a
poultry and dairy center. It is surrounded by poultry farms of all
sizes from a few hundred hens up to the great ranges of I^eghoms
with incubator capacity for hatching 3,000 hens at a setting. Three
thousand dollars is paid out every day in cash for poultry products,
and nearly as much butter, cheese, and milk and cream. The advan-
tages of poultry raising in Sonoma county are nearness and reliabil-
ity of market, quick cash sales, length of the season, abundance
of green food and certainty of crops without irrigation. On a few
308 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
acres of land a poultry farmer can make a good living- for a. family.
A further account of this prosperous city and its manufacturing and
commercial interests will be given in a future article.
There is no excessive heat or cold, day or night, throug-hout the
year in Sonoma county. It is at all times moderate even in its ex-
tremes. The mean temperature of January ia 52°; February, 54° ;
March, 55°; April, 57°; May, 60° ; June, 64° ; July, 66°; AugTist, 67° ;
September, 67° ; October, 62° ; November, 58° ; December, 55°.
Average winter mean 53°; average summer mean, 67°. December,
January and February are equivalent to May in the New England
States, and July and August to May in the Middle States. The
trade winds beginning in May lower the summer temperature and
the warm current along the coast raises it in the winter months.
Santa Rosa is on the same parallel of latitude as Richmond, Va.,
but its winter climate is that of Southern Florida, ten degrees south
of Richmond. The ocean currents of the Atlantic coast are the re-
verse of those of the Pacific ocean ; an Arctic current there increases
the cold of winter and the Gait stream the heat of summer.
The subtle influence of the ocean on the growth of a redwood
forest has been shown. There is no partiality in nature and the
hidden alchemy of the ocean may extend through all gradations of
plant life, from the matted chapparal and creeping vine to the kingly
redwood with its centuries of concentric rings, its dee ply- rooted bole,
two hundred feet in the clear, to the spring of its lofty crest. This
may account for the productiveness of all plant life in the coast
counties, and the range of the harvest, which begins with the ripen-
ing of the olive and citrus fruits in December, and overlaps tl
ripening of deciduous fruits in May. But it is a waste of time
search for a cause of these recurring winter harvests. It is enough
to know that they come year after year with the certainty of other
taws of nature, and fulfill the scriptural promise to the Israelites of
a land — " Where the plowman shall overtake the reaper and the
treader of grapes him that soweth seed."
This outline of the location, area and climate of Sonoma county
makes it unnecessary to go into details of this, that or the other
SANTA ROSA-SONOMA COUNTY. 309
product. Given a fertile soil, abundant rainfall, no extreme of heat
or cold, and deductions present themselves with mathematical cer-
tainty. But if an object lesson is preferred, the green hills, ({olden
poppies, ripe oranges and blooming roses of February, the mytho-
logical month of fecundation, will furnish it for the most skeptical.
Santa Kosa. the capital of Sonoma county, dates its municipal
esisteoce from the autumn of 1854, when the county seat wag re-
moved by a vole of the people from the old capital — the town of
Sonoma— to its new home. Its jubilee will be three years hence in
September, 1904. The county archives were brought to Santa Rosa
in a four-horse wagon, and with them came the now venerable ex-
Supreme Judge McKinstry, then District Judge of Sonoma. A
masonic hall, store, saloon, Julio Garillo's residence and a hostelry
was all the town. The fare at the hotel was rather primitive, and
Judge McKinstry fell upon an extra-judicial plan to improve it. The
walls of the house were of canvas, and what was said in one room
could be heard in all the others. One day when the Judge knew the
landlord and his wife were in ear-ahot he said to a brother lawyer :
" There is no use trying to keep the county seat at Santa Rosa.
Justice can't be dispensed on the fare furnished at this hotel — t shall
order the sheriff to move back to Sonoma." The scheme worked ;
there was immense and immediate improvement in the bill of tare.
The landlord, who was more interested in the reality of the new
town, than in the hotel, afterwards boasted that he saved the county
seat to Santa Rosa by feeding the Judge on fried chickens, antelope
steak, trout and such other delicacies as the stream* and hunting
grounds near the new capital then abundantly afforded. At all
events there was no further complaint of the hotel fare.
The city of Santa Rosa was named from the valley, the val-
ley for the stream and the stream was first so called by Father
Amoros, a worthy priest in charge of the Miasion of San
Kafael. Father Amoros left his cure in the summer of 1S21 on a
proselyting expedition to the then unknown north. On reaching the
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Photo, bj Shaw
stream he persuaded an Indian girl to accept the rite of baptiani and
named her Koaa, it being the 29th of August, the feast day of Santa
Rosa de Lima. So it happened that the name of the beautiful
Limeiia was g'iven to the river, valley and city of Santa Hosa.*
Father Amoros died some years later in San Rafael and, according
to tradition, he was as rich in virtues as the soil in which hia good
deeds fruited.
From 1854 to 1871 Santa Rosa made little advance. It was the
county seat of a stock-growing, grain-farm-
ulation. The land was held in large
there was no diversity of crops and
r no fruit culture. Attention was
jwn to the coast counties by the extra-
7 yield in what was known as drouth
1 the interior. Just before the drouth
f 1863-4 the late George W. Davis
led one hundred and sixty acres of
icn bordering on the present city of
Rosa. With the yield of a crop of
harvested that year, he paid for the
lis farming outfit, and had a small
cash surplus. There are other sim-
ilar results of a single crop in a dry
year — this particular instance is
noted because the land is now actu-
ally a part of the city of Santa Rosa.
When the first railroad reached
Santa Rosa in 1871 it had less than
one thousand inhabitants, which
increased in the next few years to
three thousand, since which time it
has had a rapid and prosperous
growth. It is now surrounded by
many small well cultivated farms.
It has a very large outlying hop,
fruit and wine interest which cen-
" ters in the city. Not less than six-
^teen thousand bales of hops and
K Nbwbr TypB.
G. Vallejo.
erlpt le
le General M.
SANTA ROSA-SONOMA COUNTY. 311
large quantities of fresh, dried and canned fruits, veg-etables, grapes
and wine are sold in Santa Rosa. There is a rapidly increasing' in-
dustry in growing- vegetables for canning, especially asparagus,
tomatoes and string tieans, all of which are profitable crops. The
yield of tomatoes per acre ia astonishing ; they thrive beyond all
precedent in the coast atmosphere.
There are four tianks in Santa Rosa, " The Bank of Santa Rosa,"
"The Savings Bank of Santa Rosa." "The Santa Rosa National
Bank." and the "Exchange Banit." The Santa Rosa Bank ia the
oldest n'ith the largest paid up capital; all carry large lines of de-
posits and are on sound financial bases.
Santa Rosa has made quite a start in manufactures in the last fen
years. The output of its woolen mill, especially blankets, cannot
meet the demand for theni in the markets of the East. It has a large
tannery, four fruit canneries, several fruit-drying factories, and a
large flouring mill. It has a municipal water system, and is the
A Sahta Rosa School House. Photo, by Staao.
only city in the United States where water for domestic purposes is
supplied free to its inhabitants. The expense of the system is- borne
entirely by the city.
Santa Hosa has a rural mail delivery extending for a distance of
aeven miles around the city. It has a gas and electric system to be
greatly enlarged in the near future and extended to street car lines
and manufacturing purposes. It has a large commodious and strictly
modern high school building and an equally well built and equipped
business college, with students from all parts of the Pacific Coast.
It has a fine public library, three grammar schools, a college and
Ursaljne Academy.
There are 140 grammar schools, five high schools, 237 public school
teachers and 9,726 school children in Sonoma county. The annual
expenditure for public schools is $209,392.17.
Santa Rosa is a progressive city of educational institutions, com-
mercial enterprise and homes. Two hundred houses have been built
in the past two years, and there is still a demand for houses to rent.
It is a city noted for its fine churches, of which there are at least six
elegant structures which would do credit to any city. Besides its
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Tobacco in Northekn Sokoha Codktv- Photo, by Shaw-
orthodox congreg^tioiiB it has a People's Church for all creeds— a
modem Pantheoa in principle if not in architectural grandure.
Rincon Heights, overlooking the city, Rincon Valley and Bennett
Valley, east and south, are attractive locations for small farms and
suburl^n residences in easy reach of the town. In fact the city ia
surrounded on all sides by a highly prosperous population of horti-
culturists, viticulturists and other farmers.
The affairs of the city are manag'ed by a progressive Mayor and
counsel. It has an efficient paid lire department and well kept streets.
Santa Rosa has long tieen noted for its gardens of rare ornamental
trees and flowers. It is the natural home of roses, geraniums, lilies
and fuchsias. The latter plant if left to itself will overrun a house
with its blossoms, and the hedges of geraniums fairly dazzle the eye
with their brilliance. Roses run riot in the trees and bloom in their
tops if not restrained. The gardens of the city are worthy of its
patron Saint Rose, and the home of the magician of horticulture,
Luther Burbank. In a few years a vacant lot in Santa Rosa can be
made to bloom with fruits and flowers. It required the strength of
Hercules to gather the fruit of the "Garden of the Heaperides." In
this modern " Garden of the West" every man may have them over-
hanging the roof of his domicile or peering in at his windows with
no more labor than is required to plant a tree and give it reasonable
care for a few years.
No part of the Pacific Coast oEFers greater advantages than the
counties fronting on the Bay of San Francisco, of which Sonoma is
one of the most attractive. It is less known and less densely popu-
lated than other counties of its class, but the sound of coming thou-
sands may be heard by those who have ears to hear.
It is a country for men of moderate means, because a few acres
will support a family, and the soil and climate will supply with it
the physical enjoyments of life attainable only by the extremely rich
in less favored countries. It is a land with the climate of Southern
France and Italy, the fruits of the islands of the Mediterranean Sea,
but, unlike those countries, it is not outworn by cultivation or scared
by conquests and revolutions. It is fresh from the hand of nature,
with the laws, traditions and methods of self-restrained resourceful
American citizens.
An Old Mexican Grant.
ITS TRANSFORMATION SINCE 1849.
Gf N 1849, Dr. T. S. Page, of Valparaiso, Chili, purchased from Gen.
I M. G. Vallejo a tract of many thousand acres of land in the
^ center of Sonoma county, known as the Rancho Cotati. Dr.
Page bequeathed the property to his children under the proviso
that it should be kept as a whole until the youngest of the family
reached his majority, which event not long since occurred. So it
happened that ten thousand acres of the best valley land in Sonoma
county, lying midway between Santa Rosa and Petaluma, was en-
closed and held as a whole. It was mainly used for grazing until the
last few years, when it was subdivided into tracts of ten acres and
upward and offered for sale at moderate prices. But little of the
land has been under cultivation. The soil is not worn out, which
cannot be said of all land within forty miles of San Francisco. San
Francisco is growing rapidly, and land in its immediate neighbor-
hood, suitable for the production of the necessaries of life, must
greatly enhance in value. In this location the cost of transportation,
which cuts such a figure in the profits of farming, is reduced to a
minimum.
The whole State is benefited by the subdivision of such a tract as
the Cotati. Where only a few men made a living by cattle or sheep-
herding there are now hundreds of families who have purchased
homes and are making a good living raising fruits, vegetables and
berries combined with poultry raising, the most profitable industry
in the State considering the small amount of capital required. It is
well known that Sonoma county is the b<;st in the State for poultry,
owing to its climate, soil and cheap transportation charges. Think
of being able to ship a case of thirty-six dozen eggs to San Fran-
cisco for ten to twelve cents a case, the empty returned free of
charge. Hens pay from 75c to $1 net per annum. There are farms
of two thousand hens on the Cotati, run in combination with fruit
culture, the one industry helping the other. The business is so large
that it consumes the whole excess of wheat grown in the county and
this enables the wheat-grower to get from $1 to $2 more per ton for
his wheat in the home market than if shipped to San Francisco.
The railroad runs through the tract for eight miles, giving a front-
age of the subdivided tracts, counting both sides, of sixteen miles.
No subdivision in the tract is more than one or two miles from the
road. The price of good land on the Cotati ranges from $60 to $90
per acre. Its advantages are cheap transportation, a fertile soil, no
irrigation, and therefore no malarial fevers or noxious insects. So
called dry or drouth years are the best in Sonoma county. In the
drouth year of 1898 two thousand acres on the Cotati produced 6,000
tons of hay worth $13 per ton, in contrast with almost complete fail-
ure elsewhere, beside the product of one hundred and fifty small
farms sold off the tract, all of which produced exceptionally large
crops. This object lesson illustrates better than anything that can
be said the productiveness of the Cotati ranch. No fruit pays better
than apples ; combined with poultry-raising it is very profitable.
The uplands of the tract are a continuation of the Gold Ridge, where
the best apples and other fruits in the State are grown.
The land is being sold for the benefit of the heirs of Dr. Page, and
is incorporated under the name of ** The Cotati Company.** Anyone
desiring a home in California cannot do so well anywhere else as by
addressing the Cotati Company, 302 California street, San Francisco,
for full information and details, including descriptive pamphlet and
map of the ranch and its subdivisions.
T^tie Land of Sunshine
PUBUSHBD MONTHIfY BY
The Land of Suxislnine F'ubllalilns Co.
( ZNCORPOR ATBD )
Rooms 1. 7-9 ; 121^ South Broadway, Los Angeles, Cal., U. S. A.
San Francisco Office, 310 Pine St.; Robt. A. Thompson, Mgr.
SUBSCRIPTION rat;:s
HEADS OF DEPARTMENTS
^?8. FtYuMMis ■- ■- ^l"EdUo5ll *1 %Z^L^'' ^^* ^""^'^ S^*«^ '•^°*^» *«<»
F. A. Pattbe - - - Business ^, «i«xtco.
Chas. a. Moodt - • Sabscriptlou '^'^ ^ y^^^ ^ other countries iit the Postal
Union.
Entered at the Los Angeles Postoffice as second-class matter.
Our Irrigation Department.
** The Reasonkr,"
San Luis Obispo, July 6, 1901.
Publishers Land of Sunshine,
Los Angeles :
Grentlemen : I felt a thrill of joy as I
opened your copy at the page marking
your announcement of a new depart-
ment of so vital an interest to the West
and to humanity. The good that you
may accomplish is beyond estimate.
Your magazine ought to have the en-
thusiastic support of every good man
and woman into whose hands it may
fall. Yours sincerely,
J. K. TuLEY.
From Ex. Qov. Adams of Colorado.
Pueblo, Colo., Aug. 15, 1901.
Wm. E. Smythe, Esq.,
Los Angeles :
Dear Sir : I am glad to note that
the author of ** The Conquest of Arid
America** has opened a department in
The Land of Sunshine. I consider
the reservoir and irrigation question
the pressing problem of the age.
Accept the assurance of my sym-
pathy and interest in the work.
Very truly,
Alva Adams.
Local Entertainments.
Ladies : Treat your friends to the
prettiest original party, reception, ball,
wedding, dinner luncheon or german,
for the season ; planned and carried
out by a lady celebrated for original
and elegant entertainment. Also con-
certs and theatricals for church, so-
ciety or school. All favors, confec-
tions, decorations, costumes and stag-
ing supplied if desired. Outline, 25c.
No cards or letters without stamps
answered. Fashionable men's and
women's clothing.
Address, Mrs. L. Crouday,
Minneapolis, Minn,
An Up-to-Date Idei^.
The Land of Sunshhyb is a magrazine in
which our State may well take pride, and which
every Californian should read, tt has pub-
lished dnrinff the seven years of it existence,
more valuable and nuiqae information about
the West than can be had from all other sonrces
combined. It portrays Western life and con-
ditions as they are, not as some irresponsible
writer fancies them to be. In scientific and de.
script! ve articles, in fiction and verse, thia
standard has been closely adhered to, with most
satisfactory results. Its June number an-
nounces that, beflrinninir with the July number,
twenty pasres of the magazine will be devoted
to a department under the title of " The Twen-
tieth Century West." This department will be
edited by Mr. Wra. E. Smythe, author of ** Con-
quest of Arid America," and will deal partic-
ularly with irrifiration, cooperation and coloni-
zation. These are subjects of practical value
to every citizen of the West and their intelli-
arent discussion will point the way to the enact-
ment of better State water laws, the t>est
methods of marketing farm products and
various other pertinent matters. — Pa^ Al/o
Times.
More Than Any Other.
The June Land of Sunshine announces
that beirinninflr with the July number the maira-
zine will devote about twenty padres to a de-
partment called "The Twentieth Century
West," which will deal particularly with irri-
gation, cooperation and colonization, edited by
William E. Smythe, the author of "The Con-
quest of Arid America." This feature promises
to firive added value to a mairazine which has
done more to exploit California than any other
—San Francisco Chronicle^ July 7.
Unique.
One of the most unique and consistently ap-
pointed stores in Los Ansreles, if not of its kind
on the continent, is that of the Pittsburg-
Alnminum Company, 312 S. Spring- Street.
The fixtures of this establishment are painted
to effect the same ware that rests upon its
shelves and in its show-cases and windows-
aluminum.
Solid as is pewter, but more durable, and as
handsome, but safer from theft than silver,
aluminum is fast taking the place of both as
well as of those pretenders, tin and ag-ate ware,
as kitchen utensils, table ware, notions, etc.
NOVEMBER, 1901
A WEEK OF WONDERS
FLOWER FREAKS
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY
Vol. XV, No. S
Rlcbly !}, Y :
lUuatrated Ij9
CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST
EDITED BY CHAS. F. LUMMtS
iilo. bj-Mr';. C. T. Bri.B
'lAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA'
CENTS LOS AN6EUS SAN TRANCISCO ^| t
HnwWmr 310 Pine Bt.
MISCELLANEOUS
GLACE
^P .1 II 11 .S^
" Stuffed With WALNUT iBEATS "
Bishop's Glace Stuffed Prunes stand in a ClaM b;
themselves. More delicious tlian the F'inest Con-
fectionery. A product typical of California. Man>
dealers sell them, but if yours does not, we will
send you a full pound box express paid for 7S cents.
BISHOP & COMPANY LosAiigere$,Cal.
Hotel Westminster....
"?."™"K.. ..... LOS ANGELES
Tourist
Hotel
of
Los Angeles
Every Modem
Comfort and Conveoience
that csn be found in
any Hotel.
Unrarpaaed G<^ Links,
F. O. JOHNSON, Proprietor
I
it
^
RECEIVED,
Ctv} 0 1901
PEABODY MUSEUM.
Thb "Split Thai
VOL. IS, NO. 6 NOVCMBIR. 1901
A Week of Wonders.
UKELY, if slowly, an almost human in-
telligence as to our own country begins
to penetrate the Darkest East. To those
of us who have been for well-nigh twenty
years belaboring that preoccupied skull with
a certain Idea, there has been perhaps rather
much suggestion of the processes alleged to be
._ ^^ necessary to introduce a joke to the Scotch noggin
— or of the sequel to one of Depew'a after-dinner
stories at a London banquet. A fortnight
later he met Lord Blank. "D'ye know, Mr. Depew, it
has just come to me that you were joking."
"By freight, I see," answered Chauncey blandly.
But if by freight rather than express, it is at last really
"coming to" the more permeable Easterner that we were
not joking all these years when we assured him that the
World's Wonderland is not in Europe, not in Egypt, not in
Asia, but in the West of our own United States ; that area
for area no other land on earth is half so crowded with
marvels of the first magnitude and of such range — in anti-
quities, scenery, anthropology and picturesquenesses in
every sort. On a modest scale, at last — heretofore, the
scale was immodestly small to such as care for the good
name of a country believed to have brains — Americans are
beginning to peck at this incomparable treasure-house.
No man now young might hope to exhaust its infinite
variety ; not half a hundred people have ever seriously
entered upon large comprehension of it ; tens of millions
316 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
of Americans know as much about it as the}' do of Mars.
But it is a distinct gain when even a few thousands arouse
sufficiently to attempt its A, B, C.
A party by no means to be reckoned as "tenderfoot,"
nor open to the general reproach of unpatriotic neglect
and ignorance of our own Wonder-Book, has just made a
Little Journey in the Wilderness — by which others might
profit. They had no supernatural powers. They were
just People, like the rest of us. They came out alive and
hearty — neither " scalped by Indians," of whom they saw
some thousand, nor murdered by Western desperados, two
or three of whom ministered unto their thirst for archaeo-
logic knowledge : nor even overtaken with the crack of
doom because of remotenesses from railroads and hotels.
They came out richer for sights and experiences they will
not forget. A hasty sketch of what they did in a week,
and how, in ** hitting the high places" of a little part of
the Southwestern Wonderland, may be of use in pricking
others. There is no structural reason why anyone of toler-
able mind and body may not go and do likewise — and even
more. One does not have to be a railroad magnate or a
retired millionaire in order to '*see things." All it takes
is brains enough to care to see them, pluck enough to
follow where women and children have led, and about the
same mone}' one would expect to spend in the same time in
jumping the usual shadows with the rest of the sheep.
A special train of four private cars left Albuquerque,
N. M., by the " Santa Fe Route" at 11.45 p.m., Oct. 21,
carrying E. P. Ripley, President of the Atchison, Topeka
& Santa Fe R.R., his wife, son Frederick, daughters Miss
Ripley and Mrs. Jerome A. Ellis, Jwome A. Ellis, Miss
Snyder, Miss Pay son, Mrs. J. R. McColl ; Paul Morton,
First Vice-President (son of J. Sterling Morton, of Cleve-
land's Cabinet, the founder of Arbor Day); J. W. Kendrick,
Third Vice-President, with his wife ; Howel Jones, a
director ; J. A. Post ; A. G. Wells, General Superintendent
of the Santa Fe Pacific R.R., and his wife ; Ford C.
Harvey, head of the longest and best line of railway eat-
ing-houses in the world ; H. Maratta, the well-known
artist, a '* pilot," and the inseparable corps of stenog-
raphers.
Sidetracked at the lone section-house of Cubero, 72 miles
west of Albuquerque, we saw the sun rise on the 22nd.
Robert Marmon, a reliable "old-timer," was at the train
at 7.30 with his caravan of comfortable wagons and good
teams driven by their Indian owners, and a few saddle-
horses — all from the Indian pueblo of Laguna, where he
lives. The tail-end of October is already late for an alti-
The Cahino Del Padke, Acoma> Pboiu. b^ Chas, F. Lan
A WEEK OF WONDERS.
tude of near 7,000 feet, and a faint drizzle was on ; but it
could not dampen people who see such sights through it.
Up the cliff-rimmed valley which opens southward from
Cubero (.named for the Spanish Governor of the Territory
in 16%); past mesas [table rocka] still crowned with the
ruins of stone towns whose story was already forgotten
when Coronado came by here in 1540 ; past the Ventana (a
wind-eroded "window" in a fine and lofty butte of sand-
320 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
stone; past the superb cliff-" island" of the Enchanted
Mesa, on which a Princeton Professor tried to kill an
Indian legend, and succeeded only in killing his own repu-
tation ; and onto the peerless Rock of Acoma, "the City in
the Sky," the procession wound, amid the titan petioles
which sentinel that enchanted valley.
Leaving their " transportation" at the foot of the great
cliflf, the party clambered up the Camino del Padre — the
wonderfully picturesque "stone ladder" by which the
Apostle of the Acomas, Fray Juan Ramirez, ascended in
1629 amid a hail of arrows and with a famous miracle.
But now there were no embattled warriors. When the
party had scaled the wild trail they were received at the
top by the Princtpales and Lorenso Lino, governor of this
little cliff-republic, in all the circumstance of a drab
"stove-pipe" and the hereditary cane presented to the
governor of Acoma nearly 40 years ago by one A. Lincoln.
The Acomas have their own (though not eccentric) ideas
as to the average tourist, and I have known them many
times to turn unceremonious visitors away from the foot of
their lofty rock ; so it is well to come introduced. Several
good Acoma friends of mine, now, were most active in
" running me off" 17 years ago.
Thanks to arrangements through Simon Bibo, the long-
time trader at Laguna, we had not only welcome but accom-
modations. The governor's big living-room was prepared
for the ladies. The men were housed in the home of that
dear and wise old man, now nine years dead, Martin Valle,
Principal Mayor^ and many times governor of Acoma. A
third very large room was devoted to eating.
In spite of such a Scotch mist as very rarely befalls in
New Mexico, the party enjoyed every moment of its sojourn
in this strange aerial town, exploring, as thoroughly as
might be in so brief a time, a place in which any active
person could find some new wonder every hour of every
day for a month. The pueblo of Acoma stands on a
roughly-oval table-rock, with sides perpendicular or over-
hanging, 357 feet high. Its area on top is about 70 acres.
Its huge old church and monastery — with walls seven and a
half feet thick and forty feet high, with great timbers
brought on men's shoulders from Mt. San Mateo, 30 miles
away ; its graveyard nearly 200 feet square, over 40 feet
deep at the outer edge, boxed with a stone wall and filled
with sand brought up from the plain a man-load at a time ;
its famous old painting of San Jose, presented to the pueblo
by the King of Spain nearly three centuries ago,
and cause of a lawsuit (and almost a war) with
the pueblo of Laguna ; its terraced houses, three stories
E Ou> Chubck at Acoma. Pbota. b
J- byChaa,P. LommiR,
324 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
hig^h and in three blocks hundreds of yards long —
are a few of the things the party saw. They visited the
gentle, happy people at home, saw their way of life,
bought Navajo blankets, gay tinajas, silver bracelets and
earrings made by Vicente the silversmith, prehistoric
arrowheads of obsidian or brilliant agates, and other real
curios such as one does not find in the shops ; and had
many other experiences the average traveler would not ex-
pect to find in America and never did find elsewhere.
After lunch, all eight ladies of the party — and one gen-
tleman— descended the dizzy " Split Trail," down which, I
believe, only six white women ever passed before. With
Mrs. Ripley in the lead, one by one and step by step they
were let down the precipitous throat of that wild cleft ;
were swung by main strength down and around a perpen-
dicular drop whose landing was a boulder 20 inches across,
and were handed around the precarious footholds of the
lower ledges. It was really a record to be proud of when
all stood safely at the bottom of that terrific precipice,
which not even a mountain sheep could climb.
One best understands both the beauty and the signific-
ance of Acoma only after proving the trails by which the
town is reached. The erosion of this, '* the noblest single
rock in America," has no known parallel, and certainly no
other town in the world is approachable only by such fear-
some paths.
Prom the foot of the *' Split Trail" — which cannot be
photographed reasonably — we turned a few hundred feet
south and came up the beautifully picturesque '* Staircase
Trail," with its little stone-hewn steps under towering
columns, under sacrificial caves, and close to the chasm
across which the soldier-poet Villagran made his wonderful
leap Jan. 23, 1599.
By the time we had ascended this third trail, we were
summoned to witness the dance Grov. Lino had ordered in
honor of the party. There is no space here to describe the
strange and impressive ceremonial we call **an Indian
dance" — the measured beat of the tombi^ the perfect rhythm
of feet and voices, the symbolic gesturings, the dignity and
reverence of the whole rite. But those who have seen such
a function — even a hasty *' scratch" performance — do not
soon forget it, nor yet the kaleidoscopic groups of hushed
spectators upon the castellated housetops.
At 4 p.m. the oflScials felt constrained to return to the
world, and their wives accompanied them ; but five of the
ladies, the younger Mr. Ripley, Mr. Ellis and Mr. Maratta
remained on Acoma — and profited. The governor haled-in
two young braves in eagle-feather war-bonnets, who did a
a. byCbaa. F. Lommi
A WEEK OF WONDERS. 327
remarkable war-dance — a marvel of precision and rapidity
— in the spacious room. Later in the night I found in an
upper dwelling — and was allowed to bring the party to wit-
ness— a private performance worth crossing the continent
to see. Along the north wall of the large living-room an
Indian family sat laughing and applauding. Upon a
blanket spread in front, full in the firelight glow, the four-
year-old son, with eagle feathers in his hair and no other
incumbrance than a slender G-string, stepped a sacred
dance to the song and pat-pat of his father. The other
faces shone with love and pride, and white teeth flashed in
fond laughter, but the little man who danced before God
was infinitely serious. Not one of our wide-traveled audi-
ence pretended to have seen a more perfect baby body ; and
head and face were in keeping. The stateliness and grace
with which this dimpled child stepped his measures ; the
great dark eyes of him ; the poise with which he faced a
stranger audience and never fluttered an eyelid ; and that
wonderful baby form — I think none of us ever saw a more
exquisite picture. And all of us who were aliens smiled —
but all were too touched to laugh.
The ladies slept well in the governor's beds, and the men
camped upon whatever came handiest at Martin's. There
was no need to lock doors and windows, nor to watch
valises, cameras, wraps or purchases. Everything was safe
in this Indian town.
On the morning of the 23rd we sent our properties down
the cliff by unchecked Indians; and with due leave-takings,
and thanks for the hospitality which had so generously
entreated us, we descended by a fourth way — the impressive
** Burro Trail," built within a century, over a massive
causeway, and between beetling crags, up which the
Acomas bring their stock to be herded at night on the
mesa-top. Walking half a mile around the foot of the
Rock, we came to the north end, where Zaldivar made his
feint in 1599. Here runs the most terrific path to Acoma
— "Dead Man's" Trail — its last fifty feet practically im-
possible to whites (though one fool has climbed it twice
with adequate witnesses), and almost never used by the
Indians. Several Acomas have lost their lives on it, spat-
tering down on the rocks 350 feet below. But the plucky
women of the party did all the possible part of it ; round-
ing "Cape Horn," and (which is more difficult) coming
down as bravely as they went up. These trail nicknames,
be it understood, are my own ticketing for convenience'
sake, and not compulsory. The Camino del Padre is the
only one which has a historic name.
The wagons had been brought around to the foot of this
e Prlncifaltt of Aco
A WEEK OF WONDERS.
331
last and most desperate trail ; and we rolled away to Cubero
with no more adventure than the dishing: of a wheel where-
by a priceless prehistoric tinaja in my lap was smashed to
potsherds. The drive is about three and a half hours.
After a grateful dinner on the cars, the special was pulled
back to Lagruna, six miles east, and sidetracked there six
hours, while we explored that picturesque pueblo and
selected beautiful tinajas to be shipped us by Don Simon.
Laguna is the newest of all the pueblos, having been
founded in 1699 by sundry refugees after Diego de Vargas's
reconquest of New Mexico. It lies on the sunward slope
of a fine dome of rock, about 400 feet above the little San
Jose creek, and half that height above the Santa Fe rail-
road which skirts its base. The ledge-built, terraced
homes of these 500 brown farmers are eminently pictur-
esque and interesting. So are their farming colonies along
the creek and the big reservoir they have built. But few
passengers on the transcontinental jaunt ever have the
spunk to **stop over" there and look. There is no hotel,
of course ; and large parties, or fussy ones of any size,
should not come unforeseen. But reasonable arrangements
could doubtless be made with Simon Bibo or Robert Marmon
for a brief stop here or for the trip to Acoma.
Between Laguna (which we left at 8 p.m., Oct. 23) and
our next stop, is a whole book of things worth seeing — the
summer colonies of the two Queres pueblos, the tremendous
lava-flows which end near McCarty's, the beautiful pre-
historic ruins at CeboUita, the nest of volcanos near Agua
Fria, the fine forests and canons of the Zuni mountains
and San Mateo, the famous ** Stone Autograph Album" of
Inscription Rock, and many another thing which in the
Bast would be cause for a score of summer hotels apiece.
But we were People in a Hurry, and after only the biggest
game ; so our berths were made down that night on the
siding at Thoreau (formerly Mitchell) 129 miles west of
Albuquerque, and close to the top of the Continental
Divide.
[to bk continued.]
Some Freaks in Wild Flowers.
■r otonat r, lkavihi.
^rtHlS comprehensive title (chosen for brevity) may be
^*j misleadinETi for I only intend to describe a few of
those aberrant forms I have observed amon^ our
wild flowers, without mentioning the far more numerous
ones occurring under cultivation.
One strange form of " freak ishness" is Albinism, seem-
ingly analogous to that in animals. The white poppy,
Eschscholtzia, is an instance of this, found very rarely in
the fields but frequently seen in our gardens, having been
334 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
there perpetuated. I have observed instances of Albinism
in our earliest mariposa lily, Calochortus Catalinae ; in the
"shooting stars," Dodecatheon ; and in the tiny ground
pink, Gilia dianthoides. These flowers are similar in color-
ing, but differ entirely in form — belonging, in fact, to dis-
tinct orders. All are of varying shades of pink or lavender,
with deep maroon centers. In the albino form the petals
are white, while a pale, yellowish green replaces the
maroon. Albinism is found in many species of flowers in
various parts of the countr}', and I suppose throughout the
world.
Under conditions peculiarl}*^ favorable to growth (either
unusually rich soil or abundant moisture), we find the normal
number of petals multiplied. Six-petaled poppies are quite
common, while more rarely we find five, seven or upward,
even to ten, more or less perfectly developed. I once found
in Eaton's Canon a fine specimen of the globe tulip, Calo-
chortus albus, with four petals and four sepals, instead of
the customary three. Later I found one of the Catalinae
mariposas with apparently four petals, but in this case one
of the sepals took the form of a full fledged petal, while
in another, petal and sepal were joined, which greatly re-
tarded the opening of the bud. Superabundant nutrition
also gives us double-headed shooting stars.*
But the main purpose of this article is to describe a very
remarkable aberration of form occurring in the Catalinae
mariposa, especially interesting, as it may throw light on
Nature's methods in forming new species. The illustration
A shows the Calochortus Catalinae found in such numbers
on our hills during March and April ; while in B we have
an abnormal form of the same flower, and in C a represen-
tion of the Calochortus albus, of our mountain cations;
which blooms during May and June. I surely need not call
attention to the startling resemblance between the deviant
Catalinae and the allied but very different species.
The Calochortus Catalinae grows on the open hill slopes,
more or less in the sunshine, amidst low chaparral or wild
oats and grasses ; while the Calochortus Albus is mainly
found well up the moister, steep, northerly slopes of the
♦ Since this was written we have made a trip to near the San Fer-
nando tunnel, where we found an unexampled profusion of the regally
beautiful Calochortus clavatus, one of the yellow mariposas. Among-
them was one perfectly developed four-petaled blossom, with eight
stamens instead of six, and four stigmas in place of three. Another
one with only three petals had four stigmas, while one of the stamens
was either double or cleft. We also found a double-headed bud, the
only one among the thousands of mariposas we have gathered. Un-
fortunately, it was mislaid, so we were deprived of the pleasure of
seeing it open.
SOME "FREAKS" IN WILD FLOWERS.
B. Abebrant Fohm of Calochovtub CATALI!<«.
mountain canons, beneath the live-oaks, and entatig^led
with maiden-hair ferns and rank grass, where the sunlight
sifts down through the overhanging foliage only a few
hours during the day. The buds in a bouquet of mariposas
continued to unfold successively for a week or more after
they were picked, becoming smaller, less developed, and
more and more pale and waxen. These " freak" lilies
were among the last to expand, when the vital force was at
a low ebb and nearing extinction. They had been kept for
days under artificial conditions of shade and moisture,
crudely analogous, perhaps, so far as results go, to those
existing where the Albus makes its home.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Now is it not possible that during a hig-h wind the seeds
blown from some hilly slope or mesa lodged and germinated
in the moister soil of a shady canon, and that the plant,
missing its accustomed vitalizing sunshine, failed to de-
velop its full form and stature, its flowers taking on the
pale hue of a sedentary life instead of the ruddy glow of
its parents" hearty, active, wind-tossed, sun-kissed exist-
ence ; its descendants growing year after year less like
their progenitor, until in the course of centuries a new
species was evolved ? Of course this is purely symbolic.
I don't mean to say that one of the forms here described is
a lineal descendant of the other. The ancestor of the
Albus may be extinct, or it may have been the splendens.
THE PERIL OF THE SIERRA MADRE. 337
which appears on the sunny mountain-side at the same time
of year — early summer. This is immaterial. There are
upwards of 40 species or varieties of Calochortus found in
California, from the sea-coast to hig-hup on the mountains,
at ten thousand feet or more elevation, as well as on the
desert. Miss Parsons says of the genus :
'*They have a tendency to hybridize, and the various
forms sport and vary, and run into one another in such a
wonderful manner that the exact determination of all the
species is an impossible task to all but a few experts — and
even they are not certain about them all yet."t So we
here have a generic characteristic favorable to the required
variations.
This variability of the Calorchorti suggested another
thought, and that is that the genus is a new one. Reckon-
ing time by geologic periods, it has not yet had time for
its different species to become distinctly and definitely
separated from one another. Such instances certainly
seem to form links in the chain of reasoning by which the
evolutionary origin of species is proved.
It has so frequently been found that the forms of flowers
serve some distinct purpose in the plant's economy, e.g.,
their fertilization by the visits of insects ; and this adapt-
ation is so wonderful and so impressive, we are led to for-
get that form, texture and color may arise from extraneous
conditions ; may be due to increased or diminished vitality
or other causes not essential to the existence of the species.
Pasadena, Cal.
The Peril of the Sierra Madre.
BY T. P. LUKKflS.
^rtHERE is critical danger of the wasting of our beauti-
^^l ful southland. Our far-famed orchards and flower-
gardens are certainly doomed unless we do some
vigorous work, and soon, to arrest the progressive destruc-
tion of our watershed.
If you think this the sentiment of an alarmist, go with
me to the mountains. As we ascend the almost barren
slopes, I will show you the remnants of once huge pines
and spruces. Many of the canons and ridges were milled
in early times. The accumulated loppings were burned
to permit sheep grazing, and the fire swept on over vast
areas again and again, until there are but few of the old
monarchs left.
f Wild Flowers of California, p. xli. See also Mr. Shinn*s article
in Thb lyAND OP Sunshine for April, 1901. Wizards of the Garden,
p. 279.
THE PERIL OF THE SIERRA MADRE.
Stand with me on the crest overlooking the desert. See
how fast those burning sands are encroaching southward.
There are two distinct factors which are causing this
condition. First, the denuding of the southern slopes of
the mountains has removed the chief factor in condensing
the aqueous vapor the southerly winds have gathered in
passing over the Pacific; inasmuch as the tree-covered
mountain is much cooler than the same mountain bared
of trees. Records of rainfall prove that the greatest pre-
cipitation on our east-and-west ranges is on the crest and
on the north slope of the first range, being greatest where
there is the densest forest, decreasing rapidly toward the
range nearest the desert. Thus with the south slope de-
ThfE PERIL OF THE SIERRA MADRE.
Mackocarpub Spkui:e.
nuded, the supply of rain for the desert range is materially
lessened.
Second — The repeated burning, chiefly by sheep men,
and the excessive grazing by sheep and cattle. In my in-
vestigations last summer, I found a most distressing and
alarming condition. The north fork of the Mojave River,
where forty years ago — before sheep were driven in the
mountains — there flowed a large stream through all seasons,
and the watershed was well covered with nut-pines and
alders, it now is bare, and the river-bed is dry in a few
days after a storm. But little better is the south fork of
the same river, " Holcomb Creek," All humus is gone.
THE PERIL OF THE SiERRA MADRE. 345
leaTing: no mulching: whatever^ and many of the trees ha^e
been killed by these causes. This was a larsre stream be-
fore the destruction of the forest £jowth and the herbace-
ous plants. Now it is dry four months in the year.
Over all the areas where sheep rangred continuously,
there is not one conifer less than thirty-five years old, ex-
cept in dense thorn brush or roufirh rocky places. The
sheep eat every one as they pass, and trample every other
living: thing*. Thanks to the Department for excluding
these hoofed locusts I But what destruction have they
wrought I Many years of careful and intelligent work in
preventing fires, and in reforesting, will be required to re-
habilitate the range.
It does not necessarily follow that an area once forested
will reforest itself if left alone. With the condition our
once forested mountains are in, and the aridity increased so
greatly by the denudation, the matter will go from bad to
worse, if man does not take hold and help. Nature is help-
less where man persists in destroying her machinery. Aid
her a little and she will perform wonders. First of all,
prevent fires. It is the imperative duty of every citizen to
cooperate with the Department of the United States Grov-
ernment in the care of our reserves. The system is not
perfect. But the system of patrolling by the forest rangers
has done a vast amount of good. While there has been a
good deal of area burned each year, the rangers have put
out hundreds of small fires, that would have burned well
nigh all our mountain covering. A good deal of unfavor-
able comment has been indulged in on the work done by the
Interior Department, but it has come from the other fellow
who wants the job.
Where there are fifteen men patrolling the San Gabriel
reserve of 550,000 acres of steep mountains, there should
be one hundred and fifty men, well equipped. Then, with
a system of trails and fire-breaks, there would be no more
big fires. Is it reasonable for us to sit back and wait for
the government to do all ? If our house is on fire, we do not
wait for the fire company to come, but work to save, assisted
by other willing hands. If the people of Southern California
will manifest an interest in this all-vital question by doing
something. Uncle Sam will do his part ; but we must mani-
fest an interest in our own welfare.
The mountains of Southern California, by the nature of
their structure, and the frequent shakings they have had,
would be the best water conservers if well clothed with
trees to retard the run-off from storms and permit percola-
tion. All the water we have for use in the valleys first
falls on the mountains. If these were well clothed there
346 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
would be an abundance of water for all purposes, and de-
structive floods would be a thing of the past.
Then, what shall we do ? First of all, prevent fires
Not only exercise great care yourself while in the mount-
ains, but caution others ; and when a fire does start render
every assistance possible to put it out. Laws inflicting
ever so severe punishment for setting fires have but little
effect. In the eleventh century, Grermany passed a law,
and enforced it, that whoever set fire to the forests should
be bound hand and foot and drawn three times through the
fire. But their forests were burned, until the country was
well-nigh ruined. Agriculture became unprofitable, floods
and drought alternating. Finally, a rational system of
guarding against fire, and reforesting, restored the original
conditions, while the forestry work is self-supporting.
Now that sheep are excluded from the, reserves of South-
ern California, the greatest menace has been removed.
Nearly every fire now is started by gross carelessness.
Campers often build fires without first clearing away all
light material. Again they set fire to an old log, and
when they break camp the fire is not thought of. High
winds spring up and scatter the sparks. Every fire should
be put out with water. Covering with earth is not safe, as
there is a great deal of humus in the soil which will burn
for days.
By far the greater number of fires are started by
smokers, who light their pipe or cigar and throw the
match to one side. If it falls on a bed of dry leaves, and
there is but a spark left, the wind will soon fan it into a
flame. There are many records of this happening where
the party is walking or riding, thus not seeing the fire
until it has gone racing up the slope of the mountain.
It is claimed that fires are sometimes caused by light-
ning. While it is true that many trees are struck by light-
ning, but few are set on fire ; and in case they are, the rain
that invariably accompanies the storm extinguishes the
fire. If we had no other destroyer than the elements our
forests would be all right. It is man with his ax and
match that does the mischief.
Plant the seed that Nature has stored for us. See that
Pine tree, Pinus Tuberculata or Attenuata, growing upon
the hot slopes of our mountains. For more than one hun-
dred years it has resisted fires, and stored its seed securely
all this time for such an emergency. How little trees have
bounded forth from the seed I have liberated from their
well-sealed home 1 Plant them where nothing else will
grow, and they rejoice and spread their branches soon to
shade the surface from the scorching sun and drying winds,
THE PERIL OF THE SIERRA MADRE. 347
while their roots penetrate every crevice, holding* back the
water, and giving, it up to us in the summer.
Prof. J. W. Tuomey of the Forestry School spent much
time in Southern California last summer, at the head of
forestry investigations. In a recently published letter he
says:
'When in our Western forests, one is constantly im-
pressed by the change in relative humidity wrought where-
ever the forest has been removed. Springs have disap-
peared and canons and ravines are now dry, where there
were formerly perennial streams. Under the leaf-mold and
debris of the forest, the soil is always moist, while on
denuded areas in the same locality it is parched and dry.
Everywhere the deep mulch forming the floor of the forest
grasps the descending rains and melting snows and
guides them into the deeper recesses of the earth. Where
the forests have been destroyed, or even the mulch and
litter forming the forest floor, as it so often is by fire or the
excessive grazing of sheep, the rains for the most part, in-
stead of sinking into the soil, pass over the surfaces, carry-
ing silt and other debris into the streams and reservoirs,
causing vital injury to irrigation enterprises.
**So also in the semi-arid regions, where there are no
forests, or where they have been destroyed, the wind has a
free sweep, resulting in an enormous increase of evapora-
tion. In some instances the evaporation from a water
surface exposed to the free sweep of the wind reaches a
maximum of thirteen inches in a single month. In exposed
situations, snows a foot in depth are frequently lapped up
in a single day without fairly moistening the soil beneath.
We do not appreciate how great the necessity for the
preservation of the forests is to the irrigable West."
There is approximately three million acres within the
boundaries of the forest reserves of Southern California,
which includes practically all our mountain area. The
average annual rainfall on our mountains is approximately
forty-eight inches. If they were well clothed with trees,
at least one half of this would be available for use in the
valleys during the summer, which would represent a
reservoir of six million acre-feet capacity.
The forest reserves are under the care of the Interior
Department; and recently the direct management of the
National reservations, so far as it relates to practical and
economical forestry, has been transferred to the Bureau of
Forestry. This insures in the very near future the
adoption of a National forestry system, that will be de-
veloped with vigor and intelligence.
The field for this work is large, embracing as it does an
34» LAND OF SUNSHIHC.
ajrea of 46,800«000 acres in forest reserves akme. The in**
vestigations and study of the forestry question have been
largely on economic lines, and the relation of forestry to
the water supply. While the former is of great interest to
ally the latter directly and vitally concerns us. The depart-
ment must look after the interests of all. If Southern
California were the only region to be considered, we would
soon have our mountains in shape. Now let us work ; first
to do all in our power to prevent fires. Organize fire com-
panies in every settlement to cooperate with the officers in
charge to fight fires.
When you go in the mountains to camp, never leave camp
without extinguishing all fire with water, even though you
expect to return in a short time. Never build a fire near
a steep bank or near a tree or inflammable material. After
lighting your pipe, never drop the match until you are
absolutely certain that all fire is extinct. Some of the most
destructive fires have started at the base of the mountain
where land was being cleared. No one should ever burn
brush and loppings, in or at the base of the mountains,
except in the winter months ; for in the summer, fires will
start from a mere spark, so dry does everything become.
But few people realize the difficulties and danger of
fighting a fire in the mountains. When it has once spread
out and started up a steep slope, there is nothing for man
to do except to get out <ff the way. Hence the great value
of fire-breaks and trails, which hold the fire in check on
the ridges, and enable men to reach points of vantage
quickly.
Twenty thousand dollars, with what the forest rangers
could do, would prepare the San Gabriel reserve so that
fires would be reduced to the minimum.
Where fires have denuded our water-sheds in the past,
and as fast as other areas are denuded, there should be
trees planted at once before a growth of grass and weeds
forms a mat of fire-inviting material. A uniformly forested
area is not nearly so susceptible to fire as a brush area, and
is a much better water conserver.
It is a well known fact with students in forestry that the
temperature in dense shade under trees fifty feet or more in
height is much lower than under brush. Also, the soil
under trees holds a much greater percentage of moisture
than the soil under brush, although the surfaces under each
are apparently equally shaded. While this is true, we
should guard zealously all brush-covered areas ; but when
the brush is burned, then the seeds of pine trees of varieties
indigenous to the locality should be planted at once.
SIERRAN DAISIES. *••
How often have I encountered those who say, when ap-
proached to help us in this work : " I care nothing about it.
It will not benefit me in m; lifetime. Let the next fenera-
tion take care of itself." What if our forefathers had heW
the same sentiment? What condition would we be in?
Let us do something for future generations ; and in this
case we will be richly rewarded during our own.
».c»i,
The Fall Plowing.
Across the fallow fields of Space,
God speeds the storm plow's furrow ;
The rain-seed scattcrclh He apace
And guides the wild-goose harrow.
SIERRAN Daisies,
YE who rend the earth apart
For hidden veins of yellow gold,
And pierce her ancient-seething heart,
For ages past grown still and cold —
Come out of all your tunnels black.
Throw down your futile picks and drills,
For here above, the wealth you lack.
In lavish splendor gilds the hills.
Did God himself stoop down to say.
You golden, thronging daisies bright.
Just where the hidden treasure lay
That you have found and brought to light ?
What need to tear the mountain side ?
What use of toil and sweat ?— Behold,
An El Dorado glorified,
A solid hill of yellow gold I
350
A Guadalupe Wooing.
«<
^^UNDREDS of pilgrims toiled along the dusty highway leading
J^^^ from the City of Mexico to the sacred village of Guadalupe.
@r X 'IThe aristocracy of the road journeyed in heavy carts, each
drawn by a pathetically small and discouraged donkey, while
a few others were so fortunate as to have a burro with baskets for
the children.
A small peon in white cotton blouse and trousers, red sash and big
sombrero, who was trudging along bravely in spite of a slight limp,
was overtaken by a buxom woman of his own class, taller, broader
and older than himself.
'* Adios, amigo,^* she said, this being the usual salutation of the
road.
*' Adios i amiga,'* he responded, somewhat shyly.
" Do you travel alone ? "
My little grandmother has gone on ahead in a friend's cart," he
answered with pardonable pride in revealing such intimate relations
with the aristocracy.
"It is very fine to ride in a cart." Her subtle flattery of manner
made him feel as important as though he owned a dozen carts.
** What might be your worship's name ? " she continued.
** I am Pablo, and your servant. What is your own gracious
name ? "
Juana, at your service. Do you live in Mexico, Pablo ? **
I am portero in the house of Don Pancho Nufiez, and I take
pleasure in placing at your orders the little room under the stairs
where I live with my grandmother."
They jogged on together amiably for some time, more and more
pleased with each other, more and more personal and confidential in
their intercourse.
" Pablo, what favor are you going to ask this year of our gracious
Lrady of Guadalupe 7 "
Pablo sheepishly drew a milagro from his bosom, a tiny
figure of a kneeling woman.
" I am going to pray fervently for a wife. My grandmother is too
old to make the tortillas^ and, moreover, she scolds me all the time
she is awake. If she only had a daughter-in-law, I would be left in
peace at least half the day, which would be a great blessing. Tell
me, Juana, the desire of thy heart."
The woman untied a knot in her blue rebozo and produced a little
silver man.
"I am going to pray for a husband," she confessed ; " but if your
grandmother hadn't such a violent disposition — "
" The saints forbid that I should speak any evil of my grand-
mother, who is a worthy woman and means well."
" Then," she said doubtfully, " perhaps it might be arranged."
Something in the patient limp and drooping shoulders appealed to
sturdy Juana, and Pablo, looking up, caught an expression of pro-
tecting, half-maternal tenderness which caused him to break forth
impulsively :
" I swear, Juana, that I love thee with all my soul."
" Muy bien^ Pablo," she answered calmly, with a friendly arm
about his shoulders, your grandmother may atmse me all she likes
— that is the respect due to the old — but if she abuses you, there wil
t^ war between us."
" Juana tnia^ you are an angel."
"No, Pablo, you do me too much honor. See, there comes the
electric car."
A GUADALUPE WOOING, 351
" How can it go so fast without even one little burro to pull it ? "
" They say it is that stick on top."
** But what holds up the stick ? "
" They say it is the devil. If I put up my hand, Pablo, the car
would stop."
'* But why should you want it to stop ? "
" Tou little stupid 1 Why should we plow the dust with our weary
feet when we might ride ? "
" What is the cost ? "
" Nine cents apiece."
. '< Eighteen cents is a large sum of money, Juana, and would buy
much pulque and many cigarettes. Besides, you say it is of the
devil."
" I will pay it, Pablo."
'* Well, my life, I doubt if it will stop for your little hand, but you
may try."
"What joy I It was like flying," remarked Pablo complacently, as
they climbed down from the car in front of the church at Guadalupe.
Near by« a little old woman, whose beady black eyes twinkled out
from a mass of wrinkles, was being lifted from a cart, when she per-
ceived her grandson, who dutifully" hastened to her side, followed by
Juana.
"Ingrate I " she screamed, ** you send your poor old grandmother
jolting over the rough road in a cart and you ride like a lord in the
electric car."
"I paid for him," interposed Juana stoutly.
*'Does that make it any better? What right had you to pay for
him ? You pig I You shameless one ! You yard of red tape ! "
" Grandmother," ventured Pablo, timidly, "this is the woman
whom the Virgin of Guadalupe has given me for a wife, but (he
quailed before the lightning in the old woman's eyes) of course she
needn't stay if you don*t like her."
Stung by such base desertion and too proud to let the others see her
tears, Juana turned and marched away. Pablo would have followed
her, but his grandmother's skinny arm held him back.
It was the eve of Guadalupe Day. The village was thronged
with pilgrims, the stately towers and domes of the great church
stood up dark and majestic against the starry sky ; hundreds of the
faithful had spread their zarapes in the stone-paved churchyard and
were sleeping huddled together for warmth.
A solitary woman carrying a pine torch made her way with diffi-
culty among the sleepers. It was Juana.* Her inflamed eyelids be-
trayed the recent storm, but her features had settled back to their
usual stolid calm. Love had triumphed over anger and disillusion.
A cracked idol is better than no idol at all, so she was seeking her
recreant lover.
Pablo, aroused by the light of the torch in his face, beheld his
true love bending over him like a vengeful Amazon. " Come," she
said. He glanced uneasily at his grandmother, but she slept peace-
fully. He rose and followed Juana, muttering incoherent apologies
mingled with vows of undying affection, but she made no response
until they had left the churchyard and climbed some distance up the
steep village street.
** Here we can talk in secret," she said, as she took out a key,
opened a heavy door, and conducted Pablo through a large, empty
room into a smaller one at the back. Here she thrust the torch into
the dirt floor.
" Pablo, I want you to wait here until I bring your grandmother to
terms and then I will come for you."
3W LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Her c«inpaiiioii did not look pleased at thia propoattion.
"She wilt think I am dead," he anawered, edging wnewaily toward
the door.
Jttana planted herself firmly in the doorway,
" And when she finda it out, she will be very angry," be continued
weakly. He next tried to crowd past Juana, bnt finding this Impoa-
■ible, he threw himself snlkily on the floor by the torch, with his
back to her.
" There ii no other way, Pablo. It will be of no nse for you to
call out, as the walla are thick, and I have rented these rooms for as
many days aa I please, so no one will come." A full minute she
stood contemplating Pablo in gloomy silence, torn by conflicting
emotions ; love and scorn, contempt, and the yearning tendemcM a
mother feels for a naughty child she has to punish, all atrnggling for
mastery. She turned away, and Pablo heard her latch the inner
door aad turn the key in the outer one.
The next morning a wildly excited old crone stormed up and down
among the crowd seeking her grandson and the strange woman with
whom she connected his disappearance, cursing them by every saint
in the calendar. When she discovered Juana sitting alone by the
Elaza fountain, she seemed all at once to shrivel up still smaller and
er voice sank to a pitiful quaver.
" Where is he 7 Where is my Pablito 7 "
" How should I know ? " answered the younger woman indiffer-
ently. " You took him away from me."
"Oh, my poor boy I My dear boy, always so good to his old grand-
mother! Where iBhe7" she wailed.
"He said yesterday," remarked Juana carelessly, "that if yon
would not allow him to m&rry me, he was going to hide and starve
himself to death."
" Oh, my angel grandchild 1 May the Virgin of Guadalupe for-
give me for a wicked old woman ! Even now he is dying of hunger 1
Find him, woman, and he is yours. You have my blessing I Only
find him quickly 1 Go ! " she cried, wring-ing her hands. Juana
darted away and was soon lost In the crowd.
The church was filled to the doors with kneeling devotees holding
lighted candles. Clouds of incense rolled up from the altar, half
obscuring the fair face and gracious figure of the Virgin of Guada-
lupe, that famous Virgin who appeared, painted in supernatural
t>eauly, on the blanket of a pious Indian nearly three centuries ngo.
This morning her glance seemed to fall benignantly on an insig-
nificant little lame peon in the front row, who knelt between two
women, each of whom clasped one of his hands. The grandmother
surveyed him anxiously lest even the bountiful breakfast which she
and Juana had provided might fail to save him from starvation,
while the younger woman leaned towards him with an expression of
utter adoration, showing that, after the manner of womankind, she
had persuaded herself that he was everything her heart could wish.
B, Csi.
A Navajo Initiation.
lY work*, not without value, have b«en cominted
1 limited anbjects from the conatantlj growing
teratnre of ethaolo^, and there are manj
rlters seehinf; subjects in this field. To such, I
ould recommend the comparative study of rites
'. initiation. To my knowledffe, no general work
1 this subject has ever been written. This is
1 age of secret societies. Never, perhaps, in
le history of oar race, have these organizations
xn more numerous or stronger in membership,
he advance of civilisation seems rather to In-
-eane than diminish them. What was their ori-
in and development 7 What is their tendency 7
With regard to such initiation rites, aad to
other initiatiocs wLich are not secret, it is generally thought that
the severities were greater in the early days than they are now, that
they have gradually become milder and more symbolic ; but I donbt
if this is a uniform rule. I have among my scraps a number of re-
cent cases in which members of secret societies, regarding lightly
the sanctity of their oaths, have sued in open court for damages re-
ceived in some rude initiation. From this we may conclude that
even in this day among civilised people, some rites have elements of
severity.
No more painful ideal of initiation has ever existed than that of
the Mandan i5keep9, seen by Catlin in 1832 and descritied by him in
his works. So terrible was his description that many doubted its
truth, yet since his day others have witnessed the 6keep3 and testi-
fied to the correctness of his account. I number myself among the
corroborating witnesses ; I saw the work of the lust day at the cere-
mony in 1870. We have accounts of other Indian initiations almost
if not quite as cruel as that of the dkeepS.
But among the Navajos of New Mexico, a tribe not further ad-
vanced in civilization than the Mandans, and not less inclined to war,
I have witnessed an initiatory rite in which only a semblance of pun*
ishment was enacted and no real pain inflicted. Furthermore, I have
never witnessed, or heard of, a more severe ordeal except in elements
of fast and vigil practiced by the Navajos.
The rite I am about to describe occurs during a great nine-days'
ceremony called KlMze Hatkl, or the Night Chant. This is really a
healing ceremony. It is celebrated primarily for the cure of a rich
invalid, who pays the heavy expenses ; but the occasion is devoted
to other purposes also, to prayers for the t>enefit of the people at
large, and among other things, to the initiation of youths and maid-
ens, and sometimes people of maturer years, into the secret of the
Yibitsai.
I have several times witnessed this initiation and have m3'self anb-
mitted to it, in order to obtain certain privileges which pertain to it.
Bo I shall speak of it, not as I saw it on one occasion, but as I saw It
on many occasions, and I shall add some information derived from
the medicine men who direct it.
On the fifth night of the Night Chant, an hour or two after sun-
set, "the basket is turned dovm," as the Navajos express it; in
other words, a basket is inverted to serve as a drum ; this is done
with many mystic observances. A crier at the door of the big medi-
cine lodge cnes, " Bilsi hatili hakd 1 " " Come on the trail of song ;"
,t later the singers begin to sing, and the drummer to pound
354 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
on his basket-drum. At the same time the two men who are to enact
the part of y^i or divine ones at the ceremony, begin to dress, adorn
and paint themselves. At last they put on their masks. WhUe they
are dressing an assistant prepares the two y^dadestsani, or imple-
ments used in the initiation of the females. A buffalo-robe is
spread on a blanket west of the fire, and, after a special aeries of ten
songs have been sung, the divine masqueraders leave the lodge.
These two implements for initiating the females consist each of an
ear of yellow corn, which must be tipped with four grains arranged
compactly together. To the ear, four branchlets of yucca are tied.
After the masqueraders (y^i let us call them) are gone, the singing
stops and there is an expectant silence in the lodge. The y6i have
gone to conduct or drive t)efore them, rather, the candidates to the
lodge. Soon the procession enters — the patient first, a number of can-
didates for initiation following, and the y^i bringing up the rear.
The divinities represented on this occasion are Hasts^yalti, or the
Talking God, and Hasts^baad or Y^baad, a goddess. Hasts^yalti is
also called Y^bitsai, or maternal grandfather of the gods or genii.
The person who enacts the goddess is a man, but feminine pronouns
will be used in speaking of him. When these gods now enter the
lodge, Hasts^yalti carries in his hands two large leaves of yucca
baccata, while Hasts^baad carries a spotted fawnskin containing
pollen.
On entering, the patient sits in the south of the lodge; the candi-
dates sit west of the central fire and buffalo robe, facing the east in
a curved row. The males sit in a squatting position in the north ;
the females sit to the south with lower limbs extended toward the
east ; the mothers sit south of the girls. The candidates enter the
lodge with their heads bowed and faces hidden in the folds of their
blankets, and they remain thus after sitting until they are otherwise
bidden. The males disrobe under their screening blankets, taking
off everything but their breech-cloths. Meanwhile the y^i keep up
an occasional hooting and stand facing the group of candidates.
When the males are all ready the y^i stand facing that one who sits
farthest north. The goddess whoops as a signal. The candidate
throws off his blanket, rises and takes one step forward. The god-
dess applies meal transversely to the shins of the candidate from
south to north. The Talking God advances and strikes the candidate
in the same place with a yucca leaf. He carries a leaf in each hand ;
he strikes with one leaf, holding its point to the north ; changes the
leaves in his hand and strikes with the other leaf, holding the point
to the south. The goddess then applies meal from below upward to
the right side of the chest and to the left side, from nipple to collar
bone, in the order mentioned. The god foUows, striking in the same
places and in the same order, once on each side, with his yucca leaf
held upright, and changing, as before, the leaves from hand to hand
between strokes. The candidate turns sunwise around with his back
to the y6i, is sprinkled with meal and struck on the shoulder blades
in a manner similar to that in which he was struck on the breast.
He turns round again, facing the y^i, and extends his forearms,
hands clinched, palm side up. Meal is applied transversely across
the forearms from south to north and from north to south,
and they are struck with the yucca leaves, pointing alternately in
these directions in a manner similar to that in which the shins were
treated. The Y^baad or goddess always applies the meal and Hast-
s^yalti, the Talking God, always applies the yucca wands and always
changes them in his hands between the strokes.
The candidate returns to his place in the line, sits down, bows his
head and covers it with his blanket. The youth sitting next him in
the south then rises, and submits himself to similar operations at
A NAVAJO INITIATION. 355
the hands of the y&, and so on, down the line until all the males
have been powdered and flagellated.
As the leaf of this yucca, which is often called Spanish bayonet,
is two feet or more in length, very stout and very much like a large
bayonet in size and shape, it mi^ht be supposed that the stroke is
painful ; but I did not find it so in my own case, and I have ques-
tioned Indians who were initiated at a tender age and have been
told that they did not suffer from the stroke. The punishment is
symbolic only.
The females are not compelled to rise while the y^i are operating
on them, nor to remove any of their clothing except that portion of
the blanket which covers the head and shoulders. Neither are they
flagellated, but they must still keep their heads bowed. Instead of
yucca wands, the implements of com and spruce, called y^dadestsani,
are used and merely pressed against their persons. The parts of the
females, alternately sprinkled with meal and pressed with the imple-
ments are the following, in the order mentioned : The soles of the
feet, the palms and forearms (which lie extended on the thighs), the
upper parts of the chest, to the collar bones, the scapular regions,
the top of the head on t)oth sides of the parting of the hair. The
T^baad sprinkles the meal from below upward — for example, on the
feet she sprinkles from heel to toe — ^and always first on the south or
right side of the body and then on the north side. Hasts^yalti
presses his implements simultaneously on both sides, and between
applications, while his companion applies the meal, he changes the
implements in his hands. Throughout the work, on all the candi-
dates, each y^i gives his own peculiar cry with the performance of
each act. Bach candidate covers his (or her) head with his blanket
when the y^i are done with him.
The difference between the treatment of the male and the female
candidates in this rite is worthy of consideration in view of the wide
spread opinion that the savage has no consideration or respect for
his females.
Now, while the candidates are all seated again in a row, with heads
bowed and faces covered, the y^i take off their masks and lay them
side by side on the buffalo robe, faces up, and tops to the east. The
female mask, that of Hasts^baad, lies south of the male mask, that
of Hasts^yalti. The men who personated the gods then stand with
uncovered faces turned toward the row of candidates. The latter
are bidden to throw back their blankets and look up. They do so,
and the secret of the Y^bitsai is revealed.
And the secret of the Y^bitsai is this : The y^i are the bugaboos of
the Navajo children. These Indians rarely inflict corporal punish-
ment on the young, but instead threaten them with the vengeance of
these masked characters, if they are unruly. Up to the time of their
initiation they are taught to believe, and, in most cases, probably do
believe, that the y^i are genuine abnormal creatures whose function
it is to chastise bad children. When the children are old enough to
understand the value of obedience without resort to threats they are
allowed to undergo this initiation and learn that the dreaded y^ is
only some intimate friend or relation in disguise. After this initia-
tion they are privileged to enter the medicine lodge during the per-
formance of a rite.
Some Navajos neglect this initiation until they have reached
mature years, and though it is, of course, well known that they no
longer believe in the bugbear, they are not admitted into the lodges
while esoteric work is in progress. On the other hand they are not
anxious to intrude themselves, for the oldest among the tril)e profess
to believe that if they were to witness the secret ceremonies without
having been duly initiated they would sooner or later be stricken
^356 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
blind, or would catch the disease which is being' driven oat of the
patient.
To attain the hig-hest priviliges in these rites one mnst go through
this ceremony four times — twice at night and twice in the day. I
have seen many adult men and women, and some even past middle
life, going through their second, third or fourth ordeals. It is not
until one has submitted himself for the fourth time to the flagella-
tion that he is permitted to wear the masks and personate the gods.
The next part of the ceremony is the application of the mask. He
who masquerades as a goddess, takes the female mask and applies it
in turn to the face of each of the candidates — proceeding along the
row from north to south — and adjusts the mask carefully to the face
so that the candidate can look out through the eye-holes and under-
stand fully the mechanism of the mask. The mask is then laid in
its former position, south of the other mask on the bufiblo-robe.
The actor takes good care that the eyes of the candidate are seen
clearly through the eye-holes in the mask. If they are not, it is
thought, blindness would result.
The next part of the performance is the act of sprinkling, or sacri-
ficing to, the masks. Each candidate, in turn, beginning as usual in
the north, rises and walks to the east of the recumbent masks, pass-
ing'by way of the west and north. Standing facing the west he lor
she) takes a pinch of pollen from the fawn-skin bag, which now lies
west of the masks in charge of an assistant. He sprinkles it in a
line downwards on each mask from the tip of the forehead to the
mouth, then upwards on the right cheek or margin, and lastly up-
wards on the left (south) cheek or margin. He powders first the
mask of Hasts^yalti in the north and then that of Hasts^baad in the
south. Any pollen that may adhere to his fingers is brushed off
so that it may fall on the mask (but not on the eye-holes, for this
would endanger the sight of the devotee.) This done, he returns to
his seat and resumes his clothing. When the candidates have
finished sprinkling, others in the lodge may follow their example.
E^ch person should pray in silence for what he most desires while
sprinkling. Great care is observed in sprinkling the masks, for this
part of the ceremony is of the gravest import. Before they begin,
the children are told carefully how to proceed, and the younger ones
have their hand guided by the actors. If one sprinkles upwards on
the nose of the mask it is supposed that the act may hinder the fall
of rain and occasion drought ; if he sprinkles downwards on the
divine cheeks, the act may injure the growth of crops and even
the growth of the sprinkler himself.
The last act is the fumigation. Hot coals, taken directly from the fire,
are placed at intervals in front of the line of candidates ; around these
coals they gather in groups of three or four. The powder called
y&dedinil is sprinkled on the coals, and the dense odorous fumes
arising therefrom are inhaled by the candidates for a few seconds.
This completes the initiation. They now sit around the lodge
wherever it suits their convenience and listen to the songs of se-
quence, which, beginning while the candidates were sacrificing to
the masks, continue for about fifteen minutes after the services are
completed. The last two of the atsd'lei songs and the song for turn*
ing up the basket are sung. Then '* the basket is turned up " and
put in the west edge of the lodge, and the work of the night is done.
Usually the night initiation is conducted only on the fifth night of
the Cl^ johatdl, but on one occasion I have seen candidates admitted
also on the sixth night. The next repetition of the rite occurs out of
doors and in the day time.
Washittfftoa, D. C
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 357
VER DADERA
RELACION. DE LA GRAN*
DIGS A CONVBRSiON Q> E H A A VIDO LN EL
NbcvoMcxko EmbudapofclPadrcFiayEilevaodcPcica.CulliMfio
deluPi««iociudcl Nucvo Mexico.af muy Revcfcado P.Ft Fraiuifco
de Apodaca , ComifTaho Ccneial dc toda la Nueva Efpana , de la
OrdrndeS.Fiancifco.daDdoiccuo()ta ddeftado dea(]uclla>
«6vcirioae»,}r en paniculat dc lo fucedido cd cI dafpacho
que le hizo paia aqucllai parte i.
5 C*« *»WM Jtl Seii» '?f(nif» ,y Jflfintr ^aU( Don ^^H*^* 4t Brfaiw-
Jmfrtfft tn St^dU^nt Ltr/t kfinpiAdiittH Is CtUt itUt T^mM-Aho it\6\x.
I Alicroa dcflaCiud«ddeM»ieo,aqaano(le
!Seiiciiibredci<i|.ano),doccroldado*,(lieiy
DucvcSacetdot«i,y do(L'cgoi,Rc)igiofoid«
&.FraDcirco,ei] compinia dclP.fr. Ellcvact de
Pcrca CuHodio, embiadotdcla Rcligiofifii-
isaProviticia del^ntoEvargelip,(oo Ult-
molfna.yrxptnradcruMageftad, quccoCa-
tholico pc(ho,ricdoru Ceptrocomo elCadii-
§ ceo d< Mcicurio,vaia vigilante lachonada de
_^__, ^ _ lon dcQat toBvciriooei , en cuya dcrenra galla ta
mayor paitedt ruiRral((h3berei:vaiaalfinde1a paz,y|uftici>.
Con lot j» rcfeiiJoi Rcligiofos fucro otroi aucve a cofladc la dicha
Pro«fntia,rndoicon gallardoalicnio, y efpiritu difpucllo a todo tiancc
de trBba)oi,y pthg'oi,oprobrio>,y arretat, pat dar a tonoce^ ptedkado
e) nonib'e de IcritC^rillo Con tu'Jaalcgna,y contormidadicsininaio
halla *\ Vallc dc ^ Bayiholoine,(!n ofteceife cofa particular Aqui fa le-
frefro la genie (Oalgunoi alivioi para el dclavio con q 11cgaron:y no lo
file pcqurno en rfla oc<fi6,huyifc dc la nanada tictrtamulat alai ye-
guai ciminonaitqtonmuchatdiUgcnciatqrehi/icrcajnoparecicton
las qumif h<\u> per frr la vUima poblacio, y neccriirai dc bafliinentai
para i}0 l«gua» de dcrpoblado.q reila bafla el pnmer pueblo del nucva
Mexico.
358
Early Western History.
From Documents Never Before Published in English.
PEREA*S REPORT ON NEW MEXICO IN 1632-3.
igMHE "Truthful Report" of Fray Estevan de Perea, for the first
sS^l ^ time accurately translated below, is a sequel to the precious
X ** Memorial" of Fray Alonso de Benavides, of which a critical
translation, with voluminous notes, was printed in this maga-
sine in the six numbers from October, 1900, to March, 1901, inclusive.
Perea succeeded Benavides as Father Custodian of the Missions of
New Mexico ; and this rare document advances by nearly three years
our knowledge of affairs in this important period of the early history
of New Mexico. Father Perea had a very different style from that
of his predecessor ; and was, at the time of this writing, much less
familiar with the country. But he was animated by the same heroic
seal ; and his report is of serious importance to the student of the
Southwest. It should be taken, of course, in conjunction with the
translation and annotation of Benavides, and will be included in
the sumptuous edition of the Memorial now in press under direction
of the editor.
TRUTHFUL
REPORT or THE MAGNI-
FICENT CONVERSION WHICH HAS BEEN HAD IN
New Mexico. Sent by the Father Fray Estevan de Perea, Custodian
of the Provinces of New Mexico, to the very Reverend Father Fray Francisco
de Apodaca, Commissary-General of all New Spain; of the
Order of St. Ftancis, giving him an account of the state of those
conversions, and, In particular, of what has happened In the Expedition
which was made to those regions.
Y With permission o/ths SeHor Vicar- General^ and of ike SeMor Alcalde Don Alonso tie Bolafkos.
Printed in Seville, by Luys EstupiHan^ in the Street of the Palms. Tear of ibsa.
There sallied from this City of Mexico, on the 4th of September
of the year 1628, twelve soldiers, nineteen Priests and two Lay-
Brothers, Relig-ious of [the order of] St. Francis, in company with
the Father Fray Estevan de Perea, Custodian. [They were] sent
from the Most Religious Provincia of the Holy Bvangel, with the
alms and at the expense of His Majesty, who, with Catholic zeal
[doth this] ; his Sceptre being* like the Caduceus of Mercury, a vigilant
rod garnished with eyes, for the conservation of these conversions,
in whose defense he expends the greater part of his Royal incomes ;
a rod, in fine, of peace and justice.
With the Religious already mentioned went nine others at the cost
of the said Provincia; all with exalted courage and spirit ready for
every hazard of hardships, perils, opprobium and affronts, to make
known by preaching the name of Jesus Christ. With all gladness
and concord they traveled unto the Valley of San Bartholom^, with-
out any particular thing occurring. Here the people were refreshed
with certain comforts for the want in which they arrived. And it
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 359
was no small thing that on this occasion 30 mules fled from the drove
to the wild mares; and despite many efforts that were made, 15 of
them did not appear [again]. Here — since it was the last settlement,
and there was necessity of provisions for 150 leagues of wilderness
[despobladd\ which remain [from there] up to the first pueblo of New
Mexico — the necessary stores [mataloiaje] were provided, with four
oz-wagons, to relieve the 32 [wagons] of His Majesty, which went
very loaded. As little did anything of novelty occur in this stretch
of road, until the full-running [caudaloso] Rio del Norte — ^at which
Pole [i. e,t the North] it has its birth. They reconnoitered the
country on Palm Saturday, 7th of April of 1629. They were well
received by the natives and succored with some refreshments, of
fishes and other things of the country ; to whom they gave, in
exchange, meat and Maize. They gave there a three days' rest to
the beasts, which had arrived very fatigued, by reason of not having
drank in as many more [}'. e., in three days] : Because the season was
of a drouth, and the country sandy and sterile.
From here they went to a place, up the river, which they call de
Robledo. And one day's journey before [reaching Robledo], the
Father Fray Martin Gonzalez, Preacher, died; a son of the Monastery
of St. Francis, of Mexico ; whose death was as much lamented by
all as envied for his much virtue and Religion. They arrived at the
town [villa] of Santa F^, where all went to the Monastery to give
hanks to God, Eulogies and praise to the Seraphic Father St.
Francis for such recognized favors as on the long journey they had
received through his petitions; their devout love making up for the
lack of votive offerings and donative services. The Fathers cele-
brated their Chapter ; since, when they arrived, it was Easter of the
Holy Ghost. And having consummated the election, the Religious
were apportioned to the pueblos and colonies of their administration,
in the great pueblos of the Humanas, and in those called Pyros and
Tompiros — which, since there was not a supply of Ministers, had not
been baptised. The Alms of His Majesty were apportioned among
these Missions and Doctrinal Schools [Doclrinas] with that which
appertained to each one. And for the said conversions [were alloted]
the Fathers Fray Antonio de Arteaga, Preacher; Fray Francisco de
la Concepcion ; Fray Thomis de San Diego, Reader of Theology ;
Fray Francisco I/etrado. Fray Diego de la Fuente, Fray Francisco de
Azebedo — Priests — [and] Fray Garcia de San Francisco and Fray
Diego de San lyucas, I^ay Religious. The Indians received them with
glad rejoicings; and preaching to them through the interpreters they
carried, they instructed and catechized them in the mysteries of our
holy Faith ; those Gentiles begging for the sacrosanct water of
Baptism [and] thirsting for it, wherein is seen how God giveth
unto the soul to know through the Baptismal absolution.
To the nation of the Apaches of Quinia and Manases, went the
Father Fray Bartholom6 Romero, Reader of Theology, and Fray
Francisco Munoz, Preacher. And since it was the first expedition
into that bellicose and warrior Nation, Don Francisco de Sylva,*
^Governor Francisco Mannel de Sllva Nieto. Very little is known of him. He was
governor of N. Mex. in 1629, but when his term t>eiran and when it ended we are not
aware. Even his name has been t>Oirsled, and even Bancroft does not set it rig-ht—
evidently befnar nnaware of the two beautifnl inscriptions carved on El Morro or
Inscription Rock by the governor's expedition to Znni mentioned below by Fray
Est^van. A facsimile of one of them was prints in this maffazinp for Auflrnst,
1896, p. 103; and both are given in my Strang* Comers of Our Country {The Centnry
Co., N. Y.) pp. 177, lis. They read, translated:
** Here passed the Grovernor Don Francisco Mannel de Silva Nieto, who has al-
ready subjected the impossible by his indomitable Arm and his Valor, with the
wagons of the Kingonr Lord; a thlnff which he alone Brought to this Outcome.
Anffnflt9, [One Thousand] Six Hundred and Twenty and Nine. That .... to
Cnni I passed and carried the Faith.** [that is conducted the missionaries.]
'* The Most Illustrious Sir and Captain-General of the provinces of New Mexico,
360 LAND°OF SUNSHtNE.
Govemor of these Proylnces, went along escorting' them with twenty
soldiers. Although this precaution was not necessary, because on
their part [the Apaches] there lacked resistance, and the pleasure
with which they begged for the Holy Baptism was more than
enough.
The Grovemor having returned to Headquarters [El Reaf\, the
journey to the Crag of Acoma was arranged, and that to the Prov-
inces of Zuni [Zufii] and Moqui, with ten wagons and 400 cavalry
horses [caballos de armas], with everything important for the voyage,
30 soldiers well armed, and much better in spirit and fervor; the
Father Roque de Figueredo, Fray Francisco de Porras, Fray Andres
Gutierres, Fray Augustin de Cuellar, Priests; Fray Francisco de
San Buenaventura and Fray Christoval de la Conoepcion, Lay Re-
ligious. These were accompanied by the Father Custodian and his
companion, and the Father Solicitor Fray Thomis Manso. This
journey was begun on the 23rd of June of the same year. They
arrived at Acoma, which is distant 36 leagues from the villa [Santa
V€\ and Main Camp [Real\ of the Spaniards, its direction [being] to
the West. Their apprehensions assured a good reception by the
Indians of the Crag [Indios PeHoles] , who spontaneously proffered
admission. For by force or industry it seems impossible to be able
to enter t>ecause of the inexpugnable situation, since it is a cliff high
as Mount Amar in Abasia, or as the insuperable steep which Alex-
ander won from the Scythians. In this stronghold, to reclaim it to
the Faith, remained the Father Fray Juan Ramirez, Priest, at the
recognized peril of his life — though his was already disposed and
offered unto God — among those Barbarians so valiant who in other
occasions fought so well that the Spaniards experienced, to their
damage, the valor of their opponents.*
In quest of the Province of Zuni [Zu&i], of which they already
had news, they went traveling against the West. They passed a
Mai Pais [" BsLd Lands," lava flow] of ten leagues of burnt cliffs,
since by ancient tradition it is said that there burst out, there, a great
inundation of firef — as we know of some volcanoes of the Indies, Piru,
Guatemala and Mexico. Thev arrived at the Province of Zuni,
distant from the villa [Santa Fe] 56 leagues ; and its natives, having
tendered their ^:ood will and their arms, received them with festive
applause — a thing never [before] heard of in those regions, that so
intractable and various nations with equal spirit and semblance
should receive the Frailes of St. Francis, as if a great while ago they
had communicated with them. From the which it is gathered as
evident that Grod hath already disposed this viaeyard for these
laborers alone. At once the Governor issued an edict that no soldier
should enter a house of the Pueblo, nor transgress in aggrieving the
Indians, under the penalty of his life; it being settled that with
for the Klnsr our Lord, xmssed by here on the return from the pnebloa of ZnSi on the
29th of Jnly of the year 1629. And he pat them [the pueblos] at peace at their re-
qnest, they askinff his favor as rassals of His Majesty. And anew they gare their
obedience. All of which he did with the persnasiveness, zeal and prndence, like
snch a most Christian, snch a careful and gallant soldier of tireless and [erased]
memory. . . .*'
These dates Indicate either an error in one of them, or that two expeditions were
made to Zuni in such quick succession that one must have been from some point at
least as near as Acoma.
* For Fray Ramires and the storming* of Acoma, see T^ Spanish Piotutrs (A. C.
McClurg- A Co., Chicago), p. 125. Acoma and the path by which the missionary
flrst climbed to the town are illustrated in the openior article of this number.
t The famous lava flows of the CeboUIta Valley ; see Stramr* Comtrt of Our
Country^ p. 183. Perea is perhaps first to mention the Acoma lesend of the ** Ano
de la Lumbre'* or Year of Fire. The Indians claim that the eruptions were wit-
nessed by their ancestors, and there is no reason to doubt the lesend. The latest
flows are ffeoloffically recent.
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. 361
suavity and mildness an obstinate mind can better be reclaimed than
with violence and rigor. This country is placid and fertile, abundant
in waters, agreeable with green fields, shady with groves of Ilexes
[£nctnos]y Pines [Pinabetos], Pinon trees and wild grape vines. All
those [Indians] of this Colony are very observant of superstitious
idolatry. They have their Temples with idols of stone and of wood,
much painted, where they cannot enter, except it be their Priests —
and these by some trap doors which they have on top of the terrace.
So likewise they have gods in the mountains [or woods ; monUs],
in the rivers, in the harvests, and in their houses — as is recounted of
the Egyptians — ^for they give to each one its particular protection.
Here they [the Spaniards] saw a notable thing; and it was some
enclosures of wood, and in them many Rattlesnakes that, vibrating
their tongues, giving hisses and leaps, are menacing as the fierce
Bull in the arena. And [our men] desiring to know the object of
having these serpents imprisoned, they told them that with their
venom they poisoned their arrows, wherewith the wounds their
opponents received were irremediable. They live with civilized
[politico'] government ; their pueblos with streets and continuous
houses like those of Spain. The women dress themselves in Cotton,
and the men in buckskins and hides. The country abounds in maize,
beans and squashes, with every kind of hunting and other chase.
And to give that people to understand the veneration due to the
Priests, all the times that they arrived where Ithese were, the Governor
and the soldiers kissed their feet, falling upon their knees, cautioning
the Indians that they should do the same. As they did ; for as much
as this the example of the superiors can do.
A house was bought for lodging of the Religious, and at once was
the first Church of that Province, where the next day was celebrated
the first mass. And hoisting the triumphal Standard of the Cross,
possession was taken, as well in the name of the Roman See as in that
of the Imperial [throne] of Spain. To the first fruits of which there
succeeded, on the ^lart of the soldiers, a clamorous rejoicing, with
salvo of arquebuses ; and, in the afternoon, skirmishings and cara-
coling^ of the horses. And because the presence of the Governor
was already more necessary in the Headquarters of the villa [Santa
F^] than in that place, he arranged to return, with the Father
Custodian and his companions. The Father Fray Roque de Figueredo
pleaded exceedingly to remain there to convert those Gentiles. [He
is] well known in this Kingdom for his much prudence, virtue and
letters ; endowed with so many graces, and the principal and most
necessary [ones] to administer and teach these Indians in the Divine
worship, as they [now] are. For he is eminent in the Ecclesiastical
chant, counterpoint and plain ; dextrous with the instruments of the
Chorus, organ, bassoon and comet; practiced in preaching many years
in the Mexican [Aztec] tongue and in Matalzinga : of clear under-
standing and quick to learn whatsoever difficult tongue. Him — while
he was Definidor of the Province of the Holy Evangel, and a person
that all that [Province] looked upon with especial love and respect —
G^ disposed and fashioned with labors for this conversion ( a style
He observes with His servants). As unto St. Paul, whom with
violent calling he prepared for Preacher to the peoples. The which
proves well the words that Christ our Lord said of St. Paul,* that He
had shown him the much that it availed to suffer for His holy name.
The Governor took his leave with the regret due a company so Re-
ligious and holy. With the Father Fray Roque remained Fray Au-
g^stin de Cuellar, Priest, and Fray Francisco de la Madre de Dios,
Lay Religious, and three soldiers. The Father Fray Roque convoked
*So mns the text— a i>alpable reTersal. Paul tised such expressions many times—
e. ff., Philippians, 3, 8 ; II Tim., 2. 12.
362 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
the Indiana of the pueblo — the gfrefttest was called Zibola, [and was]
the head town of the rest — and, by the interpreters be carried, guve
the Indians lo understand the cause of his coming', which was to free
them from the miserable slavery of the demon and from the obscure
darknesses of their idolatry ; and to make them dwellers of yonder
great House (so they call the Sky), giving them to understand the
coming of the Son of God to the world. The which they heard with
much attention, since they were knowing people and of good dis-
course ; beginning at once to serve the Religious by Ininging them
water, wood and what was necessary. In this prosperous condition
the affairs of Zuni were going ; whose progress shall be treated soon
in their place and occasion.
^Because this report is very long and will not go on one sheet, Uiat
been divided into two; and so the second part, very copious, will come
out presently after this one.
As these pages go to press, the president and architects of the
Landmarks Club are in Pala to arrange for the repairs necessary to
the ^servation of that picturesque chapel, an asislencia of the
Mission San t>ais Rey. Work is expected to begin at once, that the
bnilding may be protected against the heavier rains of the winter.
At Capistrano, under the careful supervision of Mr. Richard
Egan, the Club is replacing the tile roof over the refectory. It was
leaking so badly as to endanger the walls.
There is urgent need of more money to carry on these under-
takings ; and the Clnb urges all good Americans to assist. Member-
ship is si per year ; larger donations are welcome in proportion.
deviously acknowledged, $4,363; new donations, Prest. David
Starr Jordan, Stanford University, Cal., (5 ; Si each, Chas. Dwight
Willard, Mrs. Chas. Dwight Willard, Los Angeles ; J. D. Sweeney,
Tehama, Cal. ; Miss Stella M. Stiles, Miss Lids Lennon, Chico, Cal,
Life is of the little thingrs. Our big events we not
come along to, and leave behind ; but in and of — *"^°\'^vm
and too often for — the trifles, we have our being.
It is curious how that little modest creature Man, who
alludes to himself as Lord of Creation, is really become
the slave of the littlest things in it.
For instance, if between now and tomorrow every match
and match factory were swept from off the earth, civiliza-
tion would stand still. No savage would suffer, but the
Spoiled Man, who thinks he is Smart, is so subject to the
easy little sticks that without them he would be helpless to
create that marvelous element upon which every detail of
comfort and progress now depends. He would shiver and
curse and go hungry, and maybe cry, until some rude per-
son saved his life. Lord of CreationI
We boast our big inventions as though they <vere thh mothsr
really basic. But the greatest invention ever made '^'"'^''^b au
by man — an invention as much more profound and
vital than the locomotive or printing press or telegraph as
they are more important than a curling iron — was made
by that unnamed, unwashed, unstitched savage who first
rapped two accidental stones together ; and saw a spark ;
and made more sparks ; and observed one that fell on dry
leaves, and grew with the wind, and blossomed into the
Red Flower— and " felt good" on a cold day, and bit if he
touched it. He was the greatest benefactor of Man. A
patent has never been issued since on which his heirs and
assigns would not have an equitable claim for a royalty.
Without him there would not be a Home on earth ; nor an
art, nor a trade ; nor transit, nor Letters, nor governments
— nor even National Federations of Women's Clubs. We
should still be naked, blue, unthatched, carnivorous
savages, as he was.
Now the same sort of man that invented Fire ™s ijfk
has never lost the power of it He can still con- ™ ^'^g^-jj
jure the Red Flower at will — the most beautiful and '
the most useful thing in all the living world. And even
364 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
in contact with his Spoiled Brethren, while he uses the
easy-sticks to ligrht his cigarette, he will not kindle with
them the birth-fire of his baby, but goes to the sacred
hearth for the Cacique's coals. Within a year or so it has
happened to me to hear perhaps fifty different men, now
ponderable in our social fabric, relate how, in their hopeful
youth, they tried to make fire by ''rubbing two sticks
together," as they had read that the Indians did. But the
Indians knew how to rub I And I have known some of
these same men — who handle hundreds of thousands of
their fellows, and hundreds of millions of their fellows'
money — ^go all day long aching for a smoke, or all night
shivering in camp, because no one had a match ! So sub-
servient are we become to a sorry little splinter with a
grain of amorphous phosphorus on the tip !
NOT And yet the world moved, and men lived and
so VERY ^^ loved and made bad history, and women raised bis-
cuits and babies, and nations came up and went
down before these petty tyrants rose over us. Matches
were not from everlasting unto everlasting. They are not
a century old. It was only in 1805 that fire began to be
made by chemistry — all you needed, after Prof. Chancel of
Paris, was a bottle of asbestos saturated in sulphuric
acid, and some pine splints dipped in sulphur and tipped
with chlorate of potash and sugar. Friction matches date
only from 1827, when Walker began making his "Con-
greves" — a shilling for a box of 84 with a piece of sand-
paper to scratch them on. The modern match, with its
safer form of phosphorus, came along in 1845.
My father, born in 1825, was telling me a few months
ago how he had to light the fire in Maryland. They had
the old tinder-box — a round tin holding a charred linen
cloth and with a tight cover to smother the linen again.
Into this tinder he struck sparks with the flint and steel ;
and when it "bit" he touched to it a cedar splint he had
split and tipped with sulphur. That is the way we built
the morning fire, within the memory of one still useful
American. How many breakfast fires would be lighted
tomorrow if tonight every other facility were removed and
beside each stove were placed the tinder-box and flint and
steel and sulphur dips ?
AW, THR Now no one is fool enough to deny that a match
CAN ^^ ^ convenience ; or that we ought to get all the
good we can out of conveniences. But the greatest
convenience in the world is to be independent; and the
structural trouble with our "modern conveniences" is that
they tend to become our modern masters. They are so
GOOD
IN THE LION'S DEN. 365
many and so seductive that instead of serving: us they
rule us. We cannot get along without them — and that is
servitude. The Lion uses matches — ^half a gross or so a
day — but despises them and is not subject to them. In his
humble opinion, the most perfect and the most companion-
able fire-making: tool ever invented is the flint-and-steel-
and-tinder; and its best form the Spanish- American
mechero — a round wick tinder in a self-smotheringf tube.
Under ordinary conditions it lig^hts as quickly as a match
— and in winds where any match is futile. Any smoker,
particularly, has found, if he travels much, how fugfitive
is the alleged convenient match. A valise full might do
for a week's travel. Or there are people who would just
as soon beg: matches from strang:ers. But one mecha is
g:ood for a trunk-full of matches, and is as easily replaced
as one match — maybe.
Chancing: to run out of tinder wick, this summer, IiOoking
amid a penance in the Kast, the Lion went to buy | ^^\ight.
a new one. He verified the metropolis of Chicag:o
— ^every big: cig:ar house, every department store, every
store alleg:ed to sell supplies for hunters and travelers. All
in vain. A few elderly men remembered — on being shown
— having seen such things ; a few old men brightened and
recalled that they used to use them. But in all the Quick-
est City in America there wasn't a tinder. So the Lion
had to get a child's skipping rope in a department store,
and a fathom of cotton torching from a ship chandler ; and
pull out the worthless hempen core of the skip-rope, and
pull a strand of the cotton into that estimable jacket.
And not three months later, in the wilderness, several of
those who had laughed at his quest were glad to ask him
to '* light that red snake " when their safety-matches were
useless as snowballs in the Place Other Fellows Go To.
Perhaps this seems a trivial text from which to mkn
make a preachment. Not so. Nothing is a trifle ^^^meSurk
which takes the Juice out of Men. When a man
cannot command the most intimate necessity of his kind
without a nurse's assistance from the Diamond Match Co.,
it is time for him to take a look at himself. It is fine to
be a leader of men ; but it is even better to be competent
unto one's self. Por the Lion's part, if he couldn't make
fire without begging pardon of a Match Trust, he would
take a day off, borrow the wherewithal from some anti-
quary or some Mexican, and learn to be — in one thing, at
least — as self-suflGLcing as the dullest Indian is. We all
love Mastery — and with reason. But it is a futile thing
unless, like charity, it begins at home. The man who can
366 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
sway men, and be invited to pay $25 for a horsehair por-
trait of himself in every National Biography^ but who
would freeze to death unless he had a box of parlor matches
to take care of him — well, if he will stop to think, per-
haps he will perceive that this is rather small timber for
the foundation of the bigness he seems to have.
JtJST The Lion doesn't commend anyone to live with-
^^pRAcncB ^^^ matches ; nor to walk always when there is an
electric car handy ; nor to get down from the shoul-
ders of the Past and try to live the world over from its
foundation in one lifetime. But he does believe very seri-
ously that the man (or woman) who depends too much on
the easy circumstance of today, and lets the Man-Muscle
atrophy for want of use, and becomes helpless and abused
if robbed for a day of crutches our own grandparents
didn't dream of as necessary to enable them to Stand Up —
makes the worst bargain a human being can make. And
in a programme of life now unfortunately rather unusual,
he has seen what he takes to be solid proof of this belief.
He has seen so many of the flower of our civilization in
little venturings away from their urban Nurse, and seen
them so helpless physically and so betrayed mentally — un-
able to see straight the biggest things God ever did, be-
cause there were no streets. He has seen — and lately — a
very few city people whose heads were higher than their
stomachs; who could endure gladly what was 'discom-
fort " compared to the Waldorf-Astoria, (but would have
been luxury to their own grandfathers) for the sake of
such intellectual thrill. But he has seen some of '^ the
loveliest people that ever were" — at home — so lost in a
child's camping-trip that he had to say: **Grentlemen, if
my wife were such a baby, I'd spank her, So Help Me 1 "
*iMR There is neither exaggeration nor sensationalism
^ ^OTR «YBs ^^ **^- Lukens's '' The Peril of the Sierra Madre,"
printed upon another page. It is a sober and ex-
pert statement, by a man of that rarest of types — a really
Good Citizen. We snuflSe the phrase to mean almost any-
one who refrains from arson and perjury ; we underline it
for the man who hands out a double-eagle to the canvass-
ing committee or shines in Good Government mass-meet-
ings. But there should be some special term for the man
who devotes himself to serving the commonwealth in the
larger things which the average stall-fed " Good Citizen"
never dreams of. Mr. Lukens is of those Benemeritos,
He has been at work actively for years, personally, unsel-
fishly and at his own expense, trying to save a great heri-
tage for a lot of people of whom not one in fifty knows
IN THE LION'S DEN. 367
enough to thank him. He has done more than any other
one man to check and prevent the ruinous forest fires which
have ravagred our mountain chain, and to reforest the
burnt areas. He has been the most effective agent in
stirring the government to aid in these critically necessary
works. He deserves a monument in and from Southern
California — and the best monument to him would be an
epidemic of common sense and foresight among his fellow-
citizens
The forestation of the superb range which backbones
Southern California is literally vital. Unless we do some-
thing to protect our watershed, and do it soon, the whole
region will become uninhabitable. If our boasted intelli-
gence is worth anything, it might as well be applied here.
A thousandth part of the energy and interest we have
devoted in a couple of years to losing money in oil, a tithe
of the mental strain that is now devoted to reverent dis-
cussions of the Fakir of East Aurora, and of the Influence
of Greek Art on the Minds of Those Who Haven't Any —
would save our mountains and keep them safe. We would
realize that the murderers, batterers and sneak-thieves, for
whose discouragement we maintain a legal machinery that
costs hundreds of thousands annually, are cheap and trivial
criminals compared with those who menace our watershed.
Persons who wilfully or carelessly start fires in our forests
should be sent to the penitentiary for not less than one
year — or to the idiot asylum for life. They would be, if
we realized the harm they do us. But all the average citi-
zen remembers about mountains is that they are hard to
climb. He forgets that God made them On Purpose, and
that they have something to do even with business.
It is not a local disease. Americans are notoriously the
most careless people in the world about their forests — and
careless, in such case, means stupid. In maturer countries
they have learned that a forest is a treasure ; but here God
spends His time for a hundred years to build a noble tree —
or a thousand to make a forest — and along comes a fool
with an ax or a scoundrel with a match, and undoes it in
hour. There are thousands of Calif ornians, alas, who
read club papers, and occupy the chief seats in the Syna-
gogue, and thrust out their chests in the business world,
but so naked of sense and feeling that they would just as
soon murder a tree as not — even out here, where natural
trees are so few. But they will have to learn something.
They may not care for the contempt of thoughtful people ;
but they will care when *' hard times " come — and hard
times will come here within a decade, unless we pretty
widely abandon our present stupidity. Since the ladies
368 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
are about the only intellectual people left, suppose they try
their Clubs upon the heads of the community to some pur-
pose of real good. In this cool weather the usual topics of
discussion will keep, meantime.
THE FOX It is evident that there are strong: subterranean
AT THB forces at work to break down the barrier which for
a ^feneration this country has maintained agfainst
Chinese immigration. There is more than a remote
danger that the Exclusion Act, now about to expire, may
not be renewed. There would be *' a great deal in it" for
a good many people if our doors were opened to unre-
stricted immigration from China ; and those people are
moving to secure it. Of course the Chinese want to come.
It is money to them. Of course the vast transportation
interests want them to come. It is money to them. And
a great many employers of labor would profit. But the
country as a whole has to *'pay the freight," and the
country cannot afford it.
The old days and the old bitternesses are gone — the hot
passions and violences of word and deed in that long, stub-
born fight of a dozen years to restrict John. There are no
more Sandlotters nor Kearneys. Even in California, which
made the national fight, and which was and is most
directly concerned, all the old race-hatred has died out.
Relieved of imminent peril, we have lived soberly with
John and know him as he is — a quiet, rather human,
steady-going, effective person ivithout whom it would be
eminently inconvenient to do. He has won a good deal of
esteem in this 20-y ears' trial, limited. Not even the hoodlum
pulls his queue, nowadays ; and when we have a President
to receive or a fiesta to make, we invite John to participate
— ^and his half-mile of the procession, aflame with silks and
gold, is the gem- of the function. But all this is because
we do not have too much of a good thing. Just enough
John is as admirable as fire in a cookstove, but we take
pains with our flues that the fire may not spread to the
woodwork.
^ The arguments in favor of an open door are very
^^^SBQuiTUH ^^^^ ^^^ mouth — and, to such as think with their
' emotions, very satisfactory. This is the Land of
the Free and the Home of the Brave, an Asylum for the
Oppressed, and soon. Srg-o — but there is no "Therefore"
about it. A man might as well come to a cider-mill and
say: " I haven't any apples, but I've a thousand acres of
potatoes spoiling on my hands. It's your business to take
them. Aren't potatoes as good as apples ? Didn't the
same Grod make both ?"
IN THE LION'S DEN. 369
Doubtless He did. But we in the United States are look-
ing: for something that can be made into cider. Almost any
apples will do — big, flat, sweet ones, mean, little, sour
ones, green apples, and apples pretty far gone. But they
have to be apples.
Now the sober judgment of all thoughtful men ^^ mniGBSTioN
who know the facts is that too much Chinaman °^^^rosT"
will not digest well in a republic ; not because he
is yellow, not because he is foreign, not wholly because
he is cheap. But because he stays foreign. He does not
become a citizen. He is not assimilated, and he is not
assimilable. He has no home, no wife, no child — and is
prone to the vices of the homeless man. He is a conven-
ience but a drain. He sends most of his money out of
the country; and at last his bones follow his money. As
for his heart, it is never here at all. Now the United
States was never meant for people who do not think it good
enough to be buried in. It can — and does — swallow and
digest the most incongruous and the most unpromising
elements. The poorest Hungarians, Poles, Italians, be-
come Americans — still ignorant, brutal, raw, but in the
clutch of those wonderful gastric juices of a Grovernment
Of the People, By the People, For the People. Hopeless
as they look, they do digest. They become more American
than they came ; their children become more American yet.
They come to stay. And they have children.
The Chinaman does not come to stay. He comes to go
as soon as he can afford to. He has no children — and if
he does, in the one case of a thousand — they are Chinese
children ; pretty, picturesque, dear, but irreconcilably alien.
Now, to people who think, that is enough. This what wb
republic — nor any republic — ^cannot afford either of ^^^^apford
the two horns of the dilemma. It cannot afford a
class of non-assimilable aliens nor a class of hired serfs.
It cannot afford a considerable population unwilling to live
and die here. It cannot afford any large element which
neither votes nor breeds. It cannot afford a large class
that sends all its savings out of the country. It could not
afford Germans whose bones should lie uneasy till they got
back to Germany. It is a country where every man must
be At Home — not an exile for wages. It is a country
which has paid twice as many lives and thrice as many
millions as any other country ever spent to find out that it
had been a fool, to get rid of the most convenient alien that
ever came to it — and it is still paying through the nose for
that lesson.
Least of all can California afford to be overrun with
370 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
homeless aliens. The g^reatest curse of the State, econ-
omically, is enormous holdings of land. They are possible
with servile labor. They will be impossible when Amer-
ican boys have a chance. Is there any man so ig^norant he
needs to be told which is the better allotment of 100,000
acres, so far as the welfare of the State is concerned — one
owner or a corporation; 1,000 vagrant hirelings "bunk-
ing" in haymows or *' shacks" (for the Chinese have to
have better quarters on our ranches than Americans get)
— or, on the other hand, ten- thousand little farms of ten
acres each, each owned and occupied by an American
family ? Which makes the better community ? Which
adds more to the assessment roll of the State and to the
strength of the nation ?
THEWMB As Christmas draws near, possibly there are a
^^ ^AND HOW *®^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^*^P ^^^^ enough to think what
it means. It is rather a pity that with so many
law-abiding persons the real Christmas Spirit has become
forgotten. It is the most beautiful of festivals — the only
festival in the calendar whose central thought is to make
others happy — but in our modern practice it is largely vul-
garized to a mere perfunctory giving of gifts to people who
don't need them but do expect them. And they are gener-
ally people who can Do Us Good.
The Lion is not a religious person in any ecclesiastical
sense. But he would be mighty sorry to be without some
sort of a religion that can respect what is respectable —
and the Christmas Spirit is one of the most respectable
things now in danger to become extinct. On all sides he
sees cynical babies too *' smart " to believe in Santa Claus,
poor little heirs of poor little elders who cannot understand
that beautiful myth — or that such a myth is truer than any
cash balance. And he is sorry for these. Such as do not
know how to live are even bigger fools than they who do
not know how to die ; and to live or die decently one has to
believe a few things that are not in the multiplication-
table.
While we are Christmasing, why forget those who need
our thought ? The Babies do — and we are not so like to
forget as to spoil them. But there are others.
In this richest and happiest section of a rich and happy
nation, we have several hundred Original Americans to
whom this December brings no joy. It is the stated month
for evicting them — by the law of our half-read Supreme
Court — from the home their fathers have lived in for cen-
turies. I mean th^ Indians of Warner's Ranch, whose
case has been set forth here.
We are enjoying their country ; they are about to be
IN THE LiON'S DEN. 371
kicked out of it. Our assessment roll runs up into the
hundred millions ; they are a sig^ht of starvation. We
have such homes and such luxuries as our own fathers never
dreamed of ; they are about to lose the shabby huts they
love, and to have no homes whatever. Are we "well
enoug^h off " — in heart or pocket — to spare them a little
Christmas ? Or are we not ?
Anyone who thinks we are, can send contributions of
money, or of really useful articles, prepaid, to Rev. H. B.
Restarick, San Diego, Cal., who is an active worker in the
present movement to do something permanent for these
shamefully misused people. And the Lion does not be-
lieve anyone's own Christmas will taste worse for having
remembered them.
In the October number acknowledgement was made of
receipt of $65 from a friend for permanent aid of these
Mission Indians. R. H. Shoemaker, of Pasadena, Cal.,
now adds $5 to this fund.
With every day that goes over our heads it be- h^R»
comes plainer that we have stumbled upon that
extraordinary phenomenon, a President who Pre-
sides. Perhaps nothing could remind us more vividly how
far our politics have drifted from the old anchorage than
our surprise at reading the new news. For this is just
what Washington would have done, if there had been in
his time any politician with brass enough to request him
to do what we have come to expect the presidents to be
asked. But Washington is a long way back — and the poli-
ticians are equally "forward."
But here is the President of the United States telling
the reverend Senators that he won't appoint a man they
recommend unless he's fit to be appointed ! The face of
him ! What does he think we elect Presidents for, except
to pay the dirty debts of Congress ? What does he imagine
we vote for Senators for, except to reward their heelers ?
The man must think that principles haven't changed since
he was a Police Commissioner.
Well, he can afford to think so, and we can afford to have
him. Americans are pretty careless ; but they really pre-
fer decent government — and in their hearts they know what
it is, no matter how they may have let indecent politics
prosper. And they love a Man. They admire a president
with a soul of his own. They will forgive almost any-
thing to that sort of a person. And the more stubborn he
is (with reasonable tact) in reminding the politicians what
this government is really for, the more solidly he will have
at his back the American people.
Chas. p. LxniMis.
ISA
man!
wasted opportunity : " Don't you think Seton-Thompaon ex^geratet
the beasts ?" To which the only polite reply I could mske was, in
effect: " Doubtless, to a person whoae only example of natural history
IB the Tammany Tig'er. But if yon would get Out Doors once yon
would discover that God alao has exaggerated. Seton knows Nature
and tells it ; you don't know Nature, and are astounded when it is
brought to yon." And other remarks as unaccustomed. The truth
of the matter is that Mr. Seton not only knows, he can prove he
knowB. The cxtraordinEtry beauty of hiB telling— and it takes a poet
to interpret the Mother of all poeta — is by now well enough knovm
to a vei7 large audience ; but the vital thing ia that it is true. Mr.
Seton baa his documents by the cord — -not modem New York mems.
of stolen smartnesaes, but veritable data, sketches from life and
notes of fact. His work ia on such lines as the modem scientific
student follows — I know personally his procedure and hope to be able
to judge of it. And some feeling of this has gone abroad ; so that
it is known for an event when this earnest man puts forth a new
book.
His latest volume. Lives of ike Hunted, is worthy of its prede-
cessors in physical beauty and unique value and charm of content —
though it includes some of his less mature work. But such stories a^
" Krag, the Kootenay Kam," " Chink," and particularly " Tito, the
story of the Coyote that learned how" — these have in English litera-
ture no parallels except in this man's own work. For certain rhe-
torical reasons I cannot count this volume a classic — as Wild Animals
I Have Known unquestionably is — but no one else in the Three
Americas has written anything in its sort at once so true and so
beautiful. From almost any point of view this t>ook is worth 99 per
cent, of the novels of the year. Chaa. Bcribner's Sons, 153-7 Fifth
ATenue, New York. $1.75, net.
IC A poem and a prophecy all in one — and atrave alt, and
■HK rarer than all, a true book about the West — John C. Van
DB3SRT. Dyke's The Desert should be read by every Westerner who
has mind enough to care to know something of God's Couatry. Dr.
Van Dyke is a very typical Easterner of the taller sort — grown by
emergence to the spaces; a lover of Nature and a gentle interpreter
of her; and of a rare eloquence in her despised behalf. Perhaps not
many of ns realize now how unfamiliar Nature has become to the
overwhelming majority of Americans — whose fathers knew her at
least by sight. And the man who can nudge this incubator genera-
tion so courteously yet so forcibly as Dr. Van Dyke does, merits our
gratitude.
His theme in this volume (a sequel "Study in Natural Appear-
ances" to his Nature for lis Own Sake) is the Sonthwestero
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 373
Desert — the Mojave-Colorado— the loneliest and most beautiful area
on earth. In a dozen chapters, all beautifully written and nearly all
well-taken, the author describes the build, the color, the life —
and the lack-life — the terror and the charm of this bewitched
land. It is but honest to admit that he has astonished this reviewer
— who knows a little of the desert and was not looking for its poet
just yet. One learns by bitter proof to distrust beforehand the book
on the West ; it is not the least victory of Dr. Van Dyke that he has
in his own case wholly overcome this prejudice.
The giant cactus is not " properly Saguaro" but Zahuaro; there is
not a horizontal line" in the desert — nor have I seen one in God's
creation. I doubt if Dr. Van Dyke ever found any " agate beads" on
the desert. If he *' has not seen the flowers that grow on the
waste after the rains" luck has been against him. I have seen that
same desert so carpeted that in five hundred miles I do not believe my
horse made one step which did not crush a wildflower — precious, tiny
ephemera, bom of the rain, sprung swift as the dragon's teeth of
Cadmus to their full stature of two or three inches, wiped off the
slate perhaps in a fortnight by that inevitable sun — but, while they
lasted, such a tapestry as doubtless never covered any other land on
earth.
But the blemishes in Dr. Van Dyke's book are wonderfully few ;
and its virtues are many and great. Almost wholly from the aes-
thetic side, and scant in touch of the historic side — the fact and the
fashion of the heroism that has watered that desert with such blood
as little runs in human veins nowadays — the book is thus far the first
classic of the desert, and will have further reference in these pages.
Chas. Scribner's Sons, 15^157 Fifth Avenue, New York. $1.25.
Just why James Jeffrey Roche, a cordial and welcome a piratb
writer otherhow, should have felt prepared to " do" the VSRSUS
Byways of War, The Story of the Filibusters, someone history.
other than this reviewer must say. For I do not know. The book
is not historical nor judicial, so far as concerns Walker, its supreme
text. It is peppered with ignorances of Spanish and Spanish Amer-
ica; and all in all it is not done with the conscience we think we have
a right to expect of Mr. Roche. They were not buccaneers — ^by
three-score years — ** who first sailed round the world." Sebastian de
Blcano first performed that little feat — though the Encyclopedia
Britannica never heard of the gentleman, as he was not English.
Mr. Roche's dictum as to the Spanish policy toward the Indians is
ignorant and British. What sort of French name *' Raoulx" may
be, the Canadians who now possess Boston can doubtless tell ; but
even we Western ignoramuses know the butchery of Spanish in
*' Santa Ana" (the Mexican dictator who made an exception and
sported an extra N), "San Vincente," "Mont^," "rancherio,"
"Poco Tiempe," "D'Avila," "Puntas Arenas," "Jose," "Munoz,"
" Alerts*" ** Don Salazar," " consegrada," and many other blunders
which disfigure these pages. The "new town" of Panama is not
" three miles inland," but so insistent on tidewater that the most
notable feature of it is its sea-wall. Ancho does not mean " easy,"
nor does Angosto mean " hard." In general, Mr. Roche's notions of
Spanish- America are musty. As for the pirate Walker, history has
pretty fairly fixed his status. He meant well. So did Jefferson
Davis. Their misfortune was that the laws of God and man dis-
agreed with them. Mr. Roche has it in him, I am sure, to write
better books. Small, Maynard & Co., Boston. $1.50.
Doctors we have, and diseases, and of both too many — infi^ambd
since neither do enough diseases finish the doctors, nor as to Thbir
doctors enough conclude the diseases. Perhaps one medico ciTiss.
374 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
to each infirmity — the best medico, of coarse — ^would be enough ;
certainly one disease to each doctor were an elegant sufficiency.
But under the most unmerciful category we should still have to re-
tain John H. Girdner, M. D. — and should preserve him gladly. For
if he has not invented, he has diagnosed, a new disease, whose
victims are counted by the million. Newyorkitis is the title of his
book ; and this inspiration is well carried out in the 164 pages of an
unusual and suggestive essay. "Newyorkitis'' is a sweeping term
which includes Bostonitis, Chicagoitis, and every other inflammation
of the Urban Appendix in man. In a word, it is the disease of those
who know no better than to live in great cities — ^a sort of paresis, as
this veteran New York physician more than once points out. His
description of its x>athologiea is eminently entertaining, and very
far from flippant. Perhaps it is doctor-like that he prescribes pallia-
tives and antipyrines instead of a radical cure. A layman might
give the city-dweller a more drastic prescription:
Get Out.
But the book is as useful as it is interesting. The Grafton Press,
New York.
THB RBCORD Dignity . and a quiet elegance mark the outward form of
OF A Graham Balfour's two-volume Life of Robert Louis Steven-
PURB UFB. son; and the biographer has done his work in fashion rather
commensurate. Calm, just and judicious, well-ordered and compre-
hensive, there is no reasonable doubt that this will last as the stand-
ard ** Lrife" of that strange, almost disembodied spirit whose candle
has shone so bravely in a naughty world. Indeed, it is in many ways
a model of what a biography should be, not only by its equity but by
the patience and aptness with which it has selected from Stevenson's
own words so much of the telling of the story. The unspeakable
pathos of that unequal existence, the vicissitudes of the fire-like
spirit in its shabby tenement ; the joy of life in the body of that
death, the good cheer amid what should have crushed a robuster
frame, the fairly Greek poise of this unquenchable soul, the unearth-
liness and yet the concurrent humanity of this nature rather elfin
than man — these are well and seriously given to be known. In this
day of pictures one might wish more illustrations than two portraits
and a map in over 500 octavo pages. Foolish pictures are a sin ; but
illustrations which illustrate are a duty. For example's sake it would
have been well to include, in the chapter on Stevenson's sorry year in
California, the scenes he touched. We might even have had the pic-
turesque Simoneau, whose little inn at Monterey is so exalted by
Stevenson [see this magazine for Nov., 1900, p. 325] ; and as much
* is true of all the other scenes with which he was associated — in Great
Britain, in America, and in the South Seas. Chas. Scribner's Sons,
153-157 Fifth Avenue, New York. Two vols., $4 net.
C. F. Lr.
FROM A Ten addresses given by Frederic Harrison before various
POSiTiviST clubs, colleges and universities, during his visit to the
viBW-FOiNT. United States last spring, have been published under the
title of George W<ishington and Other American Addresses, The range
of subjects is wide — from the character and literary work of King
Alfred to an estimate of the closing years of the nineteenth century,
somewhat at odds with that of the clamorous "prosperity"
shriekers. Mr. Harrison's rank as student of history and leader
of positivist thought in England is too secure — and too well earned —
to need the assurance of any critic that what he says is worth hear-
ing and heeding. The Macmillan Co., New York. $1.75. — C. A. M.
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 375
Among^ the oldest and most popular of the world's stories Ths
is that of the Master Thief — the man who pits his own wit, snTSRPRISIng
resource, and reckless courage against the OKganized forces burglar.
of society and takes what he wants from between the paws of its
watch-dogs. Mr. Homung's Raffles is of this type, and not the least
attractive. Those who have followed his fortunes and foreseen the
inevitable disaster will be glad that he does not meet his fate at the
hands of any catch-poll, but gallantly and on the battle-field.
Chas. Scribner's Sons, New York. $1.50. — C. A. M.
After all, even the most brilliant and daring of the old- The
time nimble-fingered gentry were but petty rogues and their modbrn
grains too trifling to count. The Kings of the Craft do duval.
things on a larger scale today ; nor, rightly considered, does the lack
of hazard to their personal safety detract from the credit due them.
Indeed we recognize their greater merit by inventing new titles of
honor in place of "thieves," "highwaymen," "swindlers," and
the like, and speak of "promoters," "politicians," "financiers"
and "trust-magnates." In The Autocrats^ Charles K. Lusk has
drawn a powerful picture of a modem Knight of the Road. His
victims are a city-full at once, his accomplices are the men chosen by
the people to protect them. He buys a newspaper or a Common
Council with equal ease and readiness ; and so far from fearing halter
or prison-cell, he looks confidently forward to a seat in the United
States Senate. The pity of it is that the story is so true a picture —
in essentials, if not in detail and circumstance. Doubleday, Page
A Co., New York ; C. C. Parker, Los Angeles. $1.50.— C. A. M.
i^hat William Barry is a scholarly and cultivated gentle- a talk
man, of keen insight, broad sympathy and admirably blended op THB
wit and humor would appear clearly enough from his latest paminb.
book. The fVizard's Knot, That he is Catholic priest, doctor of
divinity, even professor of theology, would never be guessed by those
who know him only through his stories. The scene of this one is Ireland,
and the time the black famine-year of '46. The tale grips one from
the first paragraph and the interest never flags. The dialogue fairly
sparkles, yet is never strained or improbable. Altogether it is a book
one would not willingly have missed reading. The Century Co.,
New York. $1.50.— C. A. M.
The wealthy villain in Justice To The IVoman "dines the
sumptuously on port wine and soft-shelled crabs," while MB AT H9
" the woman who should be his wife eats crusts dipped in pbbds on.
tea." As he richly deserves, he loses his money as well as his diges-
tion, and when he finally offers to make the wronged woman his wife
she declines, even though he "should bring all the licenses and all
the preachers in Border City." A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago. $1.25.
— C. A. M.
Quite the right sort of a boy's book — clean, wholesome, "Thb
with plenty of stirring action, and successful achievement goi«dbn
at the end of it — ^is Elizabeth Grerberding's The Golden chimnby."
Chimney. The boy hero, with some inspiration from a girl cousin,
some assistance from more experienced heads and hands and with
no more obstacles than are good for him, extracts a nest-egg for
fortune from an abandoned smelter. Readers of this magazine will
remember Mrs. Grerberding's recent story — shorter and in a different
vein — in these pages. A. M. Robertson, San Francisco. $1.00 net.
A. M.
Ray Stannard Baker saw a great variety of persons and prom
things in Germany, from the Kaiser and Ernst Haeckel to kaisbr to
the recruit in the army, and from the Reichsanstalt to the BBBR mugs.
376 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
wooden beer-mng«, and haa told of them entertainingly in Seen in
Germany. He haa the eye and the style of the better type of news-
paper man. The book is attractive to the eye, barring* a few gross
blunders in proof-reading. McClure, Phillips A Co., New Tork. $2.00
neif $2.15 postpaid. — C. A. M.
HOW TO '* He who seriously desires any worthy attainment can
GBT WHAT gain it, if he unites that desire with perfect faith that the
YOU WANT, good he wishes will come to him.'* Floyd B. Wilson's
Paths to Power is devoted partly to expansion, demonstration and il-
lustration of this theme ; partly to specific directions for coming into
such control over one's own forces and such harmony with the Infi-
nite as shall bring his best ideals within the grasp of each one. The
essays show wide reading, earnest and profound thought and the
power of convincing statement. Grant Mr. Wilson's premises, and
his conclusions are not to be avoided. R« C. Fenno Sl Co., New York.
$1.00.— C. A. 11.
GOOD Vivid, dramatic, life-like and stirring are most of Frank
RAILROAD H. Spearman's ten stories of railroad life on the mountain
STORiBS. division of a Western railroad, now collected under the title
of Held For Orders. If no one would write for publication until he
knew his field — ^and his characters — ^as Mr. Spearman does, there
would be fewer publishers and much [cause for thankfulness. Jay
Hambridge's drawings are as convincing as photographs. Bven so
must have looked "Terza" and "Shackley" and "Jimmie the
Wind " and the rest of them, and no otherwise. McClure, Phillips
& Co., New York. $1.50.— <:. A. M.
Again In The Tempting of Father Anthony, George Horton draws
HORTON an entertaining picture of life among the peasantry of
AND GRBBCK. modern Greece. The local color is convincing and judiciously
applied, while the fun — albeit somewhat of the rough-and-tumble
order — is amusing. So long as the temptations of the would-be
saint are engineered by mere devils, he overcomes them valiantly,
but when a real woman tries her hand he promptly succumbs. A. C.
McClurg A Co., Chicago. $1.25.— C. A. M.
WOMKN From her wide study of the records of the past, Amelia
AND THK Gere Mason has emerged with the conclusion that ** other
PAST, women have been as clever as we are, and as strong, if not
individually stronger ; many have been as good, a few perhaps have
been more wicked than most of us ; and the majority have had a
great deal more to complain of." Her Woman In the Golden Ages is
mainly a sympathetic study of the character and accomplishment of
the women whose names have come down to us from three *' golden
ages" — those of Greece, Rome and the Renaissance. It seems clear
that, even as now, women were then quite up to the deserts of the
Rest of Us. The Century Co., New York. $1.80«^/.— C. A. M.
\\ Eyes to see, patience to wait, wit to understand, and the gift of
telling — these are some of Dallas L<ore Sharp's endowments. His
Wild Life Near Home, (** home " in this instance being a comer of
southern New Jersey) will be a treat to every nature-lover — and
might even aid in the conversion of the unregenerate. Bruce Hors-
fall's artistic and truthful illustrations add much to the charm of the
text. The volume as a whole is an admirable specimen of book-
making **as is." The Century Co., New York. $2 net.
No better peg on which to hang a tale of adventure has been found
than Henry of Navarre. Hamilton Drummond has chosen him as
the player who moves A King*s Pawn. Ambition, revenge and fealty
are the master passions in this stirring tale, love entering barely at
all. Doubleday, Page & Co., New York ; C. C. Parker, Los Angeles.
$1.50.— C. A. M.
ANIKBI-
ConducM by WILLIAM E. SMYTHE.
Is Theodore Roosevelt to be a g:enuine Irrigation Presi-
dent— one who will make the reclamation of the arid pnblic "*
lands a leading: policy of his administratioti 7 It is peraist-
entlj reported, apparently oo the beat authority, that he will give
conspicuous recognition to this cause in his first message to Con-
gress. In that case, we shall have a new national issue and the men
of the West are perfectly certain that it will gain in prominence
until it shall finally become triumphant and add a new and lirilliant
page to the country's history. Just how far the President will go in
his first recommendation remains to be seen, but he was clearly on
record in favor of national irrigation nearly a year before he came to
the Presidency, and this fact alone is sufficient to encourage the
friends of the movement to bring their measures forward with re-
doubled energy next winter. The presence of a friendly mind in the
White House brings to the old soldiers of the cause — the Old Guard
of Irrigation — a joy which it would be quite impossible to express.
John Greenleaf Whittier, looking back over his career at the age of
eighty, advised young men as follows: "Choose some true but un-
|iopu)ar cause and give your full strength to it if you would know
what life's victories are." Never was there a truer cause than this
one which makes for the economic independence of future >iilIioiis.
Never was there one with leas popularity ten years ago. The young
men who took it up at that time, and earlier, are beginning to feel
that they may possibly live to "know what life's victories are."
This is an appropriate time to review the history of the movement
since it became an organized force in the life of our times, and to
consider the various steps by which it has risen to its present com-
manding position. Such a review may be useful to many readers of
these pages who have become interested in the subject only during
the past three or four years.
The first session of the National Irrigation Congress as-
sembled at Salt Lake City in September, 1891. The formal
call was issued by Arthur L. Thomas, then Governor of
Utah, but the movement was actually tram one wintry day on the
bridge which spans the PlattdKiver at Ogalalla, Nebraska. The
year of 1S90 was a disastrous one in the Com Belt. The crops bad
been burned up by the sun which poured down from skies of brass
and by hot winds that came out of the South like the breath of a
HOWTBB
CAUSE
WAS BORM.
378 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
furnace. Men had prayed for rain and indulged in faating and
humiliation, but the rain came not. Finally, it occurred to some one
that it would be better to stop praying and begin to dig ditches to
turn the rivers upon the soil. Thus was bom a movement in
Nebraska which revolutionized the economic character of the west-
em half of that State. This movement held its first meeting at Red
Willow, which was followed by others throughout the western
counties. After a very enthusiastic meeting at Ogalalla some of the
leaders strolled out upon the long bridge over the Platte and fell to
discussing the possibilities of a new national movement which
should save half a continent for civilization. The matter took
shape at a State convention held at Lincoln in the spring of 1890.
A committee was appointed to enlist support and arrange for the
first national gathering. This committee induced Governor Thomas
to issue a call inviting the various States, cities, counties, commer-
cial and agricultural bodies to send delegates to Salt Lake in the
early autumn of 1891. And there was launched a movement which
has finally developed a new nationarissue and now counts among its
supporters the President of the United States.
THB Before consenting to issue the call for the Congress,
^^^^^ Governor Thomas consulted many leading public men
' throughout the West for the purpose of ascertaining whether
there was any proposition upon which they could be united. He
found such a proposition in the plan of having the general govern-
ment cede the entire public domain, except mineral lands, to the
several States in which they are situated. Hence, he shaped his
call to this end. The frankly avowed object of the convention was
to consider the advisability of this policy of wholesale cession. A
more representative body than that which came together at Salt
Lake has seldom been assembled in the West. From California,
among others, came C. C. Wright, W. H. Mills, John P. Irish, Will
6. Green, M. M. Estee, L. M. Holt ; from Nevada, Senator Stewart
and Francis G. Newlands ; from Montanai W. A. Clark, Governor
Toole, A. C. Botkin and other foremost citizens ; from Wyoming,
Senators Warren and Carey, Blwood Mead, Andrew Gilchrist, J. A.
Johnston ; from Colorado, Piatt Rogers, then Mayor of Denver,
some of the prominent men of Greeley, and many others conspicuous
in the, industrial life of the State ; from Kansas, James S. Emery
axxdlJ, W. Gregory; from Utah, Wilford Woodruff, George Q.Cannon,
C. C. Goodwin. These are but a few of many names composing
what was really an unusually brilliant gathering. Ten States and
Territories were represented. Governor Thomas opened the conven-
tion with a felicitous speech, in which he set forth the importance of
irrigation in connection with future development, and explained his
action in outlining a definite proposition in his call for the meeting.
During the three days in which the convention sat, there was but one
topic discussed, and it brought out a series of very able speeches.
At the conclusion, a resolution was adopted demanding that the
20TH CENTURY WEST. 379
arid public domain be transferred to the States. The action was
practically, if not quite, unanimous. There can be no doubt that it
represented the best sentiment of the West at the time. But some
wonderful things have happened during the last ten years.
It is a matter of historical interest, at least, to consider THB
this policy of cession, even though it is now abandoned by cession
nearly all who advocated it in 1891. At that time no one pi,an.
dreamed of public irrigation works to be built by the nation. Cali-
fornia had recently entered upon a policy of public works constructed
by districts, and there were doubtless many who looked to reclama*
tion by means of great reservoirs and canals to be created by the
States. But that Uncle Sam himself could be induced to look upon
irrigation as a legitimate part of his general scheme of internal im-
provements, no one then thought or believed, so far as the writer is
aware. It must be rememt>ered that at that time private irrigation
enterprise was extremely active and had encountered no serious set-
back. Men saw fortunes in the work of conducting water to public
lands so that they could be settled under existing laws. Public senti-
ment gave every encouragement to such undertakings. It was not
realized that such private enterprise might prove unprofitable to the
capital employed, or that there were dangers to the community in
this form of development. Everybody wanted the lands watered
and settled without delay. Capital seemed eager for the work. It
was believed that if each State controlled the public lands within its
borders, it could readily arrange for their speedy reclamation on lines
attractive alike to investors and to settlers. This would g^ve an
enormous impulse to business throughout the West and open new
outlets for the nation's surplus population. Furthermore, this policy
of self-reliance would command the approval of the Kast, and could
therefore be carried out with very little delay. At that early time,
however, the inadequacy of existing local water laws was keenly
realized, and the managers of the movement strove earnestly to
unite all the States upon a uniform code similar to that of Wyoming.
After the adjournment of the Salt Lake Congress two mbmorablk
years elapsed before another was held. During this time i«os angblbs
the plan of ceding the lands developed strenuous opposition, congress.
particularly in California. The strongest newspapers in San Fran-
cisco and Los Angeles bitterly assailed it as a land-grabbing scheme.
They declared that the big irrigation companies, aided and abetted
by the railroads, were bent on getting possession of the people's
heritage, and that Western legislatures simply could not be trusted to
avert such a calamity. The Congress which assembled at Lios An-
geles in October, 1893, was very largely composed of Califomians,
with representatives of the seven southern counties predominating.
The sentiment was overwhelmingly opposed to the plan of cession.
But the result was a compromise. The platform declared that the
irrigation problem '' is national in its essence ;" then provided for
the appointment of five commissioners in each State, acting under
380 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
the attthorityof the Irrig^ation Congrress, to make a thorough canvass
of public sentiment and render full reports at the next year's conven-
tion. It was believed that with such reports as a basis a definite
policy could be formulated which would represent deliberate and
well-considered conclusions. But it may be truthfully said that the
LfOS Ang'eles Congress gave birth to the first public sentiment in
favor of national irrigation works. L/ionel A. Sheldon was chair-
man of the Committee on Resolutiops and one of the leading figures
of the convention. In an impassioned speech he declared : " Speak-
ing for myself, I want to say that I do not believe this problem can
ever be solved until the nation constructs reservoirs and canals to
reclaim the public domain." This was received with a storm of ap-
plause. From that moment public sentiment veered away from the
idea of cession and began to point unmistakably in the direction of
outright national irrigation. But years were to pass before this new
line of thought should crystallize into a definite policy, backed by
the grim determination of the men of the West.
THS The next Congress, held at Denver in the fall of 1894,
DENVER received elaborate reports from the several State Commis-
sions. These reports represented a wide variety of opinion,
but the trend was strongly in favor of putting the burden of action
upon the broad shoulders of Uncle Sam. How could this be accom-
plished? It was decided that two things should be attempted, as
follows: First, the officers of the Irrigation Congress should en-
deavor to rally public sentiment in the West in favor of the reform of
local water laws, taking those of Wyoming as a model; second, the
Congress at Washington should be asked to create a National Irriga-
tion Commission, consisting of one representative each of the Pacific
Coast, of the Rocky Mountain Region, and of the Great Plains,
charged with the duty of investigating the whole subject and formu-
lating a definite policy to ^ submitted later to the President. This
Commission should draw upon the Interior, Agricultural, and War
Departments for facilities at their command in prosecuting its investi-
gations. It was believed that this dual plan would lead to the best
results — that while it was the longest way around it was also the
shortest way home. In the meantime it avoided the two horns of
the dilemma, kept the movement in the West united, provided a
period which could be used for the education of national sentiment,
and laid the indispensable foundation of a code of just water laws
throughout the Arid Region. The Denver deliverance was a disap-
pointment to many at the time, because they were impatient for
immediate results. Probably the writer was as much responsible for
this program as any other individual, since he was National Chair-
man and official head of all the commissions whose reports formed .
the basis of the action. What was done seemed to the writer then
far wiser than any declaration in favor of a specific plan for reclaim-
ing the arid lands, either State or national. And, looking back at it
now after a lapse of seven years, it still seems the wisest thing that
20TH CENTURY WEST. 381
cottld have been done at Denver under the conditions which existed in
1894. The only real reason for regret is that the plan was not carried
out. There was then no money to wage a battle of continental scope.
The men who had carried it that far had done so at the cost of bitter
personal sacrifice. The time had come when they could no longer
give it their exclusive attention. But the cause they had inaugu-
rated moved slowly on and at last found workers who could command
the necessary support to make it more vital and powerful than it
had ever been.
Subsequent sessions of the Irrigation Congress were held chittsndbn
at Albuquerque in 1895, Phoenix in 18%, Lincoln in 1897, ^^^
Cheyenne in 1898, Missoula in 1899, Chicago in 1900. The maxwbi,!,.
progress of Western thought gradually led up to the Chicago declara-
tion for national irrigation works, with water rights limited to actual
beneficial use. The most important events contributing to this
result were the reports of Captain Hiram M. Chittenden, indicating
the national character of water storage for the reclamation of public
lands, and the accession of George H. Maxwell to the chairmanship
of the National Committee of the Irrigation Congress. Captain
Chittenden's reports carried a weight which they gained from his
official connection with the government and from his standing as a
scientific man. Mr. Maxwell had the discernment to make the most
of such an endorsement, the genius to organize powerful financial
support, and the energy to wage tireless battle for the cause. He has
rallied the commercial interests of the country, particularly of the
Middle West, behind the demand for the utilization of this supremest
opportunity to widen the home market for all American products.
This is the story of the progress of the cause from the Ogalalla bridge
to Washington — from the dim vision of enthusiasts to the realization
of a great national issue to be fought out now in Congress and
White House.
And now that this stupendous journey has been accom- now
plished what is it, pray, that we want ? Irrigation ? Yes, what do
of course, but on what terms and conditions ? What precise
measure do we favor 7 In the last Congress there were a number of
bills representing as many different methods and no one of them
commanded any general support, or was even generally known, in
the West. They served only to draw the fire of the opposition and to
induce certain prominent Republicans — ^like Senator Piatt, Greneral
Grovesnor, and Chairman Cannon of Appropriations — to remark that
the declaration in their national platform in favor of irrigation was
only a campaign amenity to be taken in a Pickwickian sense. But
Roosevelt was not President then.
One thing is not open to dispute. That is that when the OKR
nation shall have put the flood waters into reservoirs the thing
cartain
States must assume the burden of distribution. Congress
has no power to deal with the non-navigable streams. Well, then,
nearly all of these streams have been appropriated and over-appro-
3d2 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
priated. Rififhts to their flow are entirely unsettled and involved in
a tangle of litigation. In most States there is no exercise of public
authority in distributing these waters. Will the nation build the
reservoirs without an absolute guarantee that the supply thus im-
pounded will be delivered in good faith to the public lands 7 Surely
not, if it knows it business. How can most of our States — California,
for instance, — ^give such a guarantee ? Only by a sweeping reform
of their water laws which shall include the readjudication of all
existing rights, so that they can no longer be open to question; State
supervision over future appropriations; and rigid public administra-
tion over the distribution of the supply among multitudes of users.
These reforms must precede national works and Congress will fall
short of its duty if it fails to make the performance of this an im-
perative condition of the construction of reservoirs in any State or
Territory.
OTHER There are other important things to be determined before
KNOTTY ^g ^5a.n hope to harvest the fruits of the coming national
^ ^' policy. Existing land laws have almost totally failed to pre.
vent speculators from getting lands intended for settlers. How can
this point be guarded in new legislation ? What is to be the size of
individual entries on these irrigated lands? Many million acres belong
to' railroads and are so located as to be completely intermingled with
the public lands. It is impossible to irrigrsLte the one without making
the supply available for the other. Upon what terms are these private
lands to be watered ? These are a few of many new questions that
come to the surface with the rise of national irrigation as a practical
issue. We seem to be on the right road and drawing near to our
destination, but we should not deceive ourselves with the hope that
all these complicated questions are to be disposed of in a month, or a
year. The battle now enters upon a new and most interesting phase
but must still go on for an indefinite time in the future.
TRIUMPHANT The steady growth of cooperation is in the highest degree
co-OPBR- encouraging to those who believe that this is to be the
ATiON. strongest force in the future economic life of this Western
land. The most hopeful thing about it is that it comes as a matter
of natural evolution rather than as the result of agitation. The
wheat-gprowers got together in September to consider how they might
combine the producers engaged in that stupendous industry. The
following month saw a similar meeting of the olive-growers. Both
are seeking to follow where the raisers of oranges, of prunes, of
raisins and other fruits led the way. All this comes about in response
to the instinct of self-preservation. It simply does not pay for the
individual to deal alone with the commission-house or the railroad.
But it does pay for the mass of individuals to pool their issues and
sell their products inrecisely as they would do if they were one instead
of thousands. In the same way the Californians have begun on a
considerable scale to cooperate in purchasing their supplies. They
have their wholesale store in San Francisco and retail establishments
distributed throughout the State. Gradually, surely, almost silently,
we are laying the foundations of a new civilization in these valleys
in which the common man shall enjoy better conditions of living
than he ever knew in the past. And to do this thing is the Grod-given
mission of the West.
383
How TO Colonize the Pacific Coast.
THIHD PAPBR.
INDUSTRIAI, AND SOCIAI, INSTITUTIONS.
ATN these papers it has been contended that the g^eat examples of
I successful colonization in the West are cooperative settlements,
^ notably those in parts of Colorado and Southern California and
all of Utah. Last month it was suggested that all the active land
interests in California might well form a union in order to employ
the methods which were used in the enlistment of Greeley, Anaheim,
Riverside and Salt Lake. Getting the settlers is, however, but half
the battle. The other half is to organize them upon such a basis
that they will be prosperous, contented, and an inspiration to similar
movements hereafter.
To accomplish this, the methods of the successful settlements re-
ferred to must be imitated still further. But is it possible to com-
mand for this business undertaking the spirit and the leadership
which created these notable communities during the past fifty years ?
Yes, in my opinion, we can not only equal, but surpass, anything yet
done in this line. To a certain extent, we can begin where the
others leave off. We can avail ourselves of advantages which
did not exist twenty-five or fifty years ago. We can found a
system of colonization that will go on widening the sphere of its
operations and bearing larger and richer fruit long after we shall
have passed from the scene. When we have made one thoroughly
successful colony by methods capable of general application the
problem is solved. How shall we make it ?
I.
THRKB KINDS OP SBTTl,KRS.
There are three distinct classes of settlers who will enter into the
making of every well-organized colony. They are as follows:
First, those possessing sufficient capital to purchase land, make
improvements and sustain themselves until the land comes into
bearing. This would mean a capital of $2,000 and upwards.
Second, non-resident buyers now in receipt of assured incomes
elsewhere — people who do not desire to move at present, but will
come later when their places are ready to support them.
Third, those who possess insufficient capital and can only make
homes by borrowing money and then working for wages while their
places are being improved. Some of this class have a part of the
capital required, while others possess only enough to bring their
families and household goods to the colony.
For convenience, these three classes will be referred to as Inde-
pendents, Non-residents and Borrowers, respectively. The ideal
colony plan must offer to all these classes the opportunity to live, to
labor, and to make homes. And under good plans, each will be a
source of strength to the community. I have addressed many colony
meetings in the Bast and corresponded with thousands of people who
384 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
wanted to get homes in the West. I have always found each of
these elements in evidence. I believe we can handle them all, and
that, if we do not, we shall fall short of solving the problem of bring,
ing the surplus man to the surplus land.
n.
WHAT IS A SANK COI/>NT PX«AN 7
If we make out of hand just such a colony as we consider best for
California, and best for the surplus population of the Bast, what
will that colony be ? What will be its industrial character ? What
its social and civic institutions ? How will it be governed 7 In an-
swering these questions, we must not forget that we have before us,
in Colorado, Utah and Southern California, several very successful
communities from which we can learn valuable lessons. Neither
must we forget that every attempt to realize the communistic ideal
has failed, and that nearly every successful undertaking has been
dominated during its early days by strong men who possessed large
authority. My view is this :
Farms are small — five, ten or twenty acres, with not over forty for
the maximum. It is a mistake for men of small means to attempt
the improvement of large areas, especially under irrigation. Fur-
thermore, high social advantages are closely related to the small
farm-unit.
The most diversified production is encouraged. The ideal arrange-
ment is to have each family produce the variety of things it
consumes.
Supplies are purchased and products sold in common, so far as
possible. The cooperative store, affiliated with the Rochdale Whole-
sale in San Francisco, supplies the means for purchasing ; the various
fruit exchanges supply a considerable part of the means for selling,
but require to be supplemented with numerous small local industries,
such as creameries, canneries, and pork-packeries.
Under these industrial plans each man possesses his own farm and
thrives in proportion to his industry, thrift and ability. But none of
the settlers are exploited by storekeepers, commission-houses, or
combinations controlling the various industries which utilize the
raw materials produced by the farmer. This is not Socialism. It is
business common-sense, and the logical fruit of our modem economic
conditions.
On the social side, the aim is to combine, as! far as possible, the
advantages arising from neighborhood association with the inde-
pendence which comes from tilling the soil. To this end it is desira-
ble, that many, if not most, of the settlers have their homes in a
central village on lots of generous size. E/xperience in many West-
em communities has proven that this is feasible. Centuries of expe-
rience in Europe prove the same thing. And you will never turn the
tide from the cities to the country until you find a way to satisfy
that social instinct which is one of the strongest traits in human
nature.
n
386 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
The villag^e community enjoys many facilities entirely beyond the
reach of ordinary farmers. They have a common system of domestic
water supply, which is cheaper and more satisfactory than individual
wells. They light their houses with electricity, enjoy good streets,
sidewalks and parks, and have a public building which includes
auditorium, library, and club-rooms for both men and women.
Furthermore, the presence of such a population, living in the midst
of such advantages, must in time create values for town property
which will enrich the community. If Horace Greeley's wise plan be
adopted, as in the case of his famous Colorado settlement, profits
from this source will be available for public improvements.
The government ? There is nothing better for small communities
than the New England town meeting, but it cannot be safely trusted
with the powers of administration until the community is well
established and past the dangers sure to surround its pathway during
the first few years. Until the lands are all sold, until the farms have
become self-sustaining, and until the community indebtedness is
wiped out or perfectly secured, the founders of the colony retain
absolute control of its affairs. This authority is exercised by a
single individual — the executive selected by the founders. Those
who cannot agree to this plan are not invited to join. Long and
bitter experience has shown that it is for the best interests of the
settlers themselves that superior ability should be in a position of
secure control during the formative period at least. The town meet-
ing rules in New England to-day, but the Massachusetts Bay Com-
pany was all-powerful until communities were thoroughly established.
Such a colony plan as this meets the industrial and social needs of
the time. Thousands will gladly join it if they have confidence in
its management. None of its principles are untried. Some of them
have l)een demonstrated at Greeley, others in Utah, still others in
Southern California.
in.
THE PLAN IN OPERATION.
How can such a plan be practically realized by the associated land
interests of California ? The question can t>e answered here only
in the briefest way.
Let them select a tract of, say, 15,500 acres where all conditions of
soil, water, transportation, and markets are favorable. Let this
tract be subdivided and set apart as follows : For townsite, 500 acres;
for Independent settlers, 6,000 acres ; for Non-residents, 6,000 acres ;
for Borrowers, 3,000 acres.
The Independents buy their land and pay for it like ordinary set-
tlers. This feature requires no explanation.
The Non-residents pay for their land on installments extending
over, say, four years. The price they pay includes improvements,
such as clearing, plowing, fencing, planting, and care of crops until
they reach maturity. It would be feasible to extend improvements
to building a house and barn, which would increase the purchase
20TH CENTURY WEST.
SWEHTWATER DaM, BAN DiHOO COUHtV. CaL.
price in proportion. But aside from house and barn it is probable
that about $30 per acre will have to be expended in improvements
and care to bring the place to maturity by the time inHtallment pay-
ments are completed. That is to say, a total of 1180,000 will be col-
lected for the improvement of the 6,000 acres set apart for Non-
B Hbmbt Dam, KrvBiisniE Couktv, C&l.
388 LAND OF SUNSH/NE.
residents. Almost the entire sum will be paid out for labor of men
and teams.
There has been reserved for borrowers 3,000 acres, which will ac-
commodate 150 families on 20-acre farms. These Borrowers reach
the colony with little capital — possibly with none to speak of. They
require a loan of, say, $1,000 each, or a total of $150,000. This is
sufficient to pay for their land and interest in colony property, on the
basis of $20* an acre for the one and $10 a share for the other ; to
provide shelter ; to grade and fence land ; to buy seed and nursery
stock, team, implements, poultry, and one or two cows. These thing's
constitute the foundation of a home and future independence. They
leave no marg'in for the support of the Borrowers while their lands
are coming into bearing. How is this support to be provided ? From
the proceeds arising from the labor of this class of settlers. They
will be employed a large part of the time in improving the lands of
the Non-residents, for which $180,000 will he paid, chiefly for labor.
They will also he employed in improving townsite, erecting public
buildings and industries, and creating public utilities, such as the
system for domestic water supply. Not less than $100,000 will have
to be expended in these ways. Of this amount at least 75 per cent
will go to labor. Adding this $75,000 to the sum of $180,000, to be
paid by Non-residents, makes a total of $255,000 available for the
employment of the Borrowers. Spread this over four years and it
amounts to $63,750 per year. Dividing this by 150 families gives
$450 per year for each family. At the end of four years the Borrowers
will be self-sustaining. Many will be earlier.
The colony requires a capital of $250,000, to be expended about as
follows :
Loans to settlers $150,000
Townsite improvements 25,000
Industrial plants 35,000
Liffht and water plants 2S»000
Working- capital, stores, industries, etc ZS,000
$250,000
The proper expenditure of this fund will create one of the most
beautiful colony centers that ever blossomed on the face of the earth.
It will have all the improvements of the best modern town, together
with commercial machinery for the purchase of supplies and sale of
products on the best possible terms.
•* Yes," says the reader, "but where is the $250,000 coming from ?"
The founders — in this case, the associated land interests — ^incorporate
a local colony company, with 15,000 shares (one for each acre of agri-
cultural land) having a par value of $10 each. Each colonist is re-
quired to purchase as many shares as he does acres. This is equiva-
* The richest land and best water supply in California (on the Colorado Delta)
may be had for $20 per acre. Some of the finest lands under the Turlock system, in
Stanislaus county, and some of the best in Glenn county, are offered at this price.
When hiffher priced lands are to be sold the Borrowers must possess some capital
of their own, or borrow more money from the fund, or defer some of their purchases
of implements and live-stock until they have saved money from their waffes. Aside
from some spare time of their own, they can count on the assistance of their familieA
in improvinir their places, or upon income earned by their family in other work.
390 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
lent to adding $10 an acre to the price of the land, all of which ^oes
to the colony itself. The sum of $150,000 thus realized is placed in a
sinking* fund for the payment of bonds. A bond issue is necessary,
because the entire amount of $250,000 must be available at the be-
ginning, while income from sale of colony shares and from other
sources will be realized gradually after improvements are made.
Thus the colony company must borrow $250,000 at its inception.
This will be secured upon the following property, to be transferred
to a trustee :
1. Three tfaonaaad acres of land, to be improTed in small dirersified famA bj
BorrowcfH.
Z TownHite with its manj' valnable improvements.
3. Industrial plants, snch as cannery, creamery, pork-packery, rrist-mill, etc.
4. I#ocal pnblic works, snch as electric Ilrhts and domestic water plants.
Bonds to ran 20 years, with option of payment after five years; interest foor or
five per cent.
Interest on bonds is $12,500 per annum. Of this sum, 17,500 (beinir the interest on
$150,000) is paid by Borrowers and deducted from their waffes. The balance comeK
from profits of store and industries and earnings of sinking* fund.
The sinkinir fnnd will be provided as follows:
1. By repayment of $150,000 by Borrowers.
2. By sale of 12.000 colony shares at $10 each to Independents and Non-residents.
3. By sale of town property.
The assured receipts from the first two items complete the sinking-
fund and leave a balance of $20,000. But the income from sale of
town property will also make a large item, possibly sufficient, under
favorable circumstances, to alone retire the bonds. This done, the
colony owns free and clear property in the shape of industries, stock
on hand, public buildings and works, which alone makes its capitali-
zation of $150,000 full paid.
Very likely the reader will say now: " This is feasible enough pro-
vided (1 ) that you can sell the bonds promptly at par ; and (2) that
you are able to secure good business management.''
Very likely the bonds can be disposed of at home. Some of the
strongest influences in the State, including banking interests, will
be concerned in the project. But that the bonds can be disposed of
in the Kast, to moneyed men who are profoundly interested in open-
ing outlets for surplus population, I know. They would not hesitate
a moment if they could deal with such a body of landowners as that
projected in the October number of this magazine. As to manage-
ment, it has already been said that this rests absolutely with the
founders for the first five years. They select a man of ability, tact,
and practical experience, and give him full power. Ultimately the
power will rest with the stockholders of the colony, but during the
formative period they agree that it shall be exercised exclusively by
the founders through the executive they name.
There are many other details which cannot be given in the space
now available, but reasonable inquiries will be cheerfully answered
hereafter.
IV.
CI«OSING RBFr«KCTIONS.
In the debate which followed the submission of this plan to a
public meeting at Sacramento last January a prominent citizen de-
clared that such a proposition could never be realized in California.
20TH CENTURY WEST. 391
He admitted that its most important features had been carried out
elsewhere, particularly in Utah, but said : ** We have no Mormon
Church, and you cannot make a success of any plan of cooperative
settlement without it."
Well, where does this leave us ? It is admitted that we are not
colonizing* California successfully today — that banks and landowners
are groaning- under the burden of great holding^ which they would
sell if they could find customers. Shall we give up the effort to settle
the fertile land of this great State ? If not, shall we turn the task
over to the Mormon Church ? There is no other alternative, unless
we have the g-enius to devise new methods to take the place of those
which have failed.
I believe there is no single feature of the proposed union of active
land interests, or of the suggested method of getting settlers, that
is not practical and sensible. I believe the industrial and social in-
stitutions outlined in this article can be justified equally upon com-
mercial, economic, and ethical grounds. So believing, it was a joy
for me to plead for these ideas against the criticism of some of the
strongest men in California when the matter was discussed at Sacra-
mento. And it is a joy for me now, after the lapse of the better
part of a year, to repeat the proposal with renewed emphasis. If
private parties are ever to sell their lands and build colonies fit to
live, I believe it must be by some such method as has been pre-
sented in these three papers.
But is it necessary to leave the destinies of California to be worked
out by private enterprise ? May it not be true, after all, that coloni-
zation is a function of government ? The answer to that question
leads us to New Zealand. And of New Zealand we shall see much
in these pages during the coming year.
The Perils of Water Monopoly.
VIEWED IN THE LIGHT OF THE WORLD'S EXPERIENCE.
tiff FILED on this water ^ and it is mine to do with as I please.
I / can run it into a gopher hole if I want to, I can sell it, of
JL rent it to my neighbors, or I can waste it in the sand, and
neither the Government nor State has any right to object,**
Expressed with brutal frankness, that is the prevailing theory of
water ownership in California and several other Western States.
The remark is quoted from Elwood Mead's introduction to the report
on ** Irrigation Investigations in California.** It is credited to **an
intelligent and fair-minded ditch owner,'* and Mr. Mead says there
is not the slightest doubt that it expresses the commonly-accepted
opinion about the ownership of water in this State.
This being so, the people of California are standing face to face
with the problem of water monopoly. It is the most dangerous in-
fluence which could enter into the economic life of this State, and of
the other States which look to California for leadership. It is infin-
itely more perilous than railroad monopoly, because it is always a
physical possibility to parallel one iron highway with another. But
the stream which furnishes the only source of water supply cannot
be paralleled. The reservoir occupying the strategic position in re-
392 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Ration to a given watershed cannot be duplicated. Bven with the
fairest and most economical use of water resources of every kind,
from flowing" stream, from storage, and from wells, we shall always
have more land than water with which to irrigate it. Hence the
ownership of this precious element is more vital to our civilization
than any other question with which science and statesmanship has to
deal.
The water monopoly in California is now protected by two stout
bulwarks, both of which must be destroyed before the State can be-
gin the wise use of its natural resources and broaden the foundation
of its industrial life to accommodate many millions of new popula-
tion. The first of these bulwarks is the riparian doctrine, which de-
clares that water must always flow in its original channel in un-
diminished quantity. The second bulwark is the doctrine that water
belongs to the man who appropriates it by posting a notice on the
bank of a stream, flling a copy of it in the county records, and pro-
ceeding to build a canal.
In the flrst case the water belongs absolutely to the persons owning
land along the banks of the streams. In the second case the owner-
ship is vested in the appropriator, who may then proceed to sell his
property to those who require it as the most important means of their
existence. There never were two ideas more utterly inconsistent
than these doctrines of riparian proprietorship and appropriation.
One says the water shall not be taken from the stream ; the other
says it may be taken under certain vagtie conditions for which no
means of enforcement are provided, save litigation in the courts.
But though it would seem impossible that the two doctrines could
exist side by side, it is nevertheless true that they do exist under the
illogical laws and conflicting judicial decisions of California, and
that both of them assist in the creation and protection of the water
monopoly.
No topic which came within the range of the government's investi-
gation was more important, and none was more luminously treated
by Elwood Mead and the board of experts who worked under his
direction. In presenting their conclusions to the California public it
is eminently desirable that the matter should be put in the broadest
possible way. Our people should understand not only that these
patient, skilled, and unprejudiced investigators condemned the
riparian doctrine, the private ownership of water apart from the
land, and the monopoly which they beget and sustain, but that the
experience of the wide world through all the ages is arrayed upon
the same side of the question. You may pooh-pooh the conclusions
of nine experts, even though they be unanimous, and even though
they represent the Government of the United States. But you can-
not thus easily dispose of the solemn warnings conveyed in the ex-
pressions of eminent men in all countries and illustrated in the laws
and experience of various lands which dealt with irrigation long
before the flrst ditch was made in California.
A DEADI<Y PARAI^I^EI* FROM SPAIN.
Mr. Mead says in his introduction :
"The Europsan couatry which most nearly resembles Califoraia is Southern
Spain. The rainfall is less, so that irrigation is indispensable. Spanish water law4
are the outcome of a thousand years* experience, in which local customs widely
dififerent in character have long* operated side by side in different districts of the
same province. There has been time enouirh to work out to a final result the influ-
ence of different doctrines of water ownership. In Valencia, the moAt beautiful and
pro4p3rous irriflrated section of Spain, the works date back to the Moors. Water
riirhts are founded on customs which are older than records. Water and land are
inseparable. Every writer who has studied the subject is of the opinion that the
thrift, the skill, and succss;) shown by farmers com^s from the p^ace aud security
which (foes with the control of both elem::nis of production. In the same province
the results of the separate ownership of water and land are as completely minifest.
In the district of Elche water was oriirinally controlled by the Ian 1 > .vaers, but Ian d
20TH CENTURY WEST. 393
and water were not made inseparable. Gradually water risrhts were botiflrht up by
oQtsiders. Now the farmer buys water from these owners of streams just as he
does fertilizers. The water tolls have been raised, farmers impoverished, and all
progress and prosi>erity banished. In the province of Mercia water is attached to
the land and farmers are prosperous. In Lorca land and water are separated, and
the result, says a recent report, is * larire profits for the water owner, poor farmers,
and lanfTuishinfiT auriculture/ "
Here we have an experience arrayed in a sort of ** deadly parallel
column." Where the ownership of water and land was combined
there was abiding prosperity, but where water was owned apart from
the land and permitted to become a private monopoly there was hard-
ship, loss and decay. Must California proceed under the latter
policy, which was adopted in ignorance of our conditions and of the
true philosophy of the subject ? God forbid !
OTHBR BUROPBAN BXAMPLBS.
G. P. Marsh, long a United States Consul in Italy, says :
'* European experience shows that where waters belonc-infr to the State are
farmed and relet by private individuals water rights are a constant source of g-ross
injustice and endless litifration. The consequence of these interminable vexations
is that the poorer or more peaceably disposed landholder is oblifred to sell his pos-
sessions to a richer or more liticrous proprietor, and the whole district gradually
passes into the hands of a single holder."
That is to say, the man who owns the water practically owns the
land and he oppresses and harries his neighbors until he finally be-
comes the actual owner of the land which the water controls. Already
groaning under the incubus of great estates, must we sit still and see
the mills of the gods grind out another grist of the sort by the re-
morseless operation of our water monopoly ?
The Royal Commission on Water Supply, appointed by the Govern-
ment of Victoria, in Australia, studied water history in three coun-
tries of Europe with this result :
** Italian experience, French experience, and Spanish experience all ffo to show
that the interests to be studied in relation to irrig-ation schemes are so many and so
various, and so intimately bound up with the public welfare, that State control is
imperatively necessary, and that for the protection of its citizens no monopoly can
be permitted which would separate property in water from property in the land to
which it is applied."
Baird Smith, in his History of Irrigation in Italy, speaking of
water monopoly, says:
** There is no point better established by exp?rience in Northern Italy irenerally,
and in Lombardy particularly, than this— That the selfishness of irrantees in per-
petuity of water has been one of the most serious obstacles to the development of
irriiration. Actiniron the principle that they had a right to do what they liked with
their own, they were in the habit of suspending arbitrarily the supplies of water
disposed of by them to other parties under subordinate grants, of increasing* as they
thouffht iit the prices to be paid, and, in a word, of pushing to its utmost limits the
right of absolute property purchased by them from the State. But an ag'ricultnre
founded on artificial irrigation cannot advance as it oug'ht to do under such an
arbitrary system."
In California ** the right of absolute property" is not "purchased
from the State." What would the Italians think of a system which
does not even pay that little tribute to the public rights, but which
acquires this valuable property by putting up a notice on a tree and
filing a copy of it in the county records ? Kven when the State re-
ceived a cash payment from those who were to enjoy a monopoly of
the stream the system proved intolerable in Italy. But in California
there is not even that mitigating circumstance. You merely ** filed
on this water," and proceeded to ** run it into a gopher hole, sell it,
rent it, or waste it in the sand." So that the Italian method at its
worst was never to be compared with the utter imbecility of the way
we do things in California.
* IN THB BNGI«ISH COI^ONIBS.
The riparian doctrine came from England with the rest of the
common law. But when Englishmen find themselves face to face
with the conditions of aridity the^' do not adhsre to this theory of
394 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
water control. They have wisdom enough to see that what is a very
g-ood law in one place may be a very bad law in another place — ^that
while in a country where water is so abundant as to be almost a nui-
sance it is well to insist that the stream shall flow within its ancient
banks, it is equally well in a land where human existence depends
upon artificial irrigation that the water should be taken from its
channel and distributed as widely and as fairly as possible. In
colonizing Western Canada and Australia it was found that condi-
tions similar to those of California must be dealt with. The states-
man to whom this problem fell sent commissions throughout the-
world to learn from the experience of others. They thought it might
be well to look t)efore they leaped, instead of leaping first and look-
ing afterwards, as we are now doing in California. The result is
seen in this suggestion, which the Canadian commissioner put first
in his list of recommendations :
** First. The total suppression of all riparian riff'hts in water, so that the same,
being- vested in the Crown, may be distributed under well-considered ipovernment
control for the benefit of the srreatest possible number.**
For the benefit of the greatest possible number! And it was
quickly determined that nothing which, under the widest stretch of
the imagination, could furnish a footing for water monopoly would
be for the benefit of the greatest possible number. They proceeded
to make laws much like those of Wyoming, governing the appro-
priation and distribution of water under the control of the State.
Very similar action was taken by the Australian Colonies of Vic-
toria and New South Wales. Riparian rights were abolished, as
they have been abolished in Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho,
Utah, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico, and as they were not per-
mitted to exist in France, Spain, Italy, Kgypt, and India. And in
Australia, as in Canada, the most orderly methods for handling the
water supply were adopted and enforced by the State. These
English Colonies took up irrigation much later than California.
They might be supposed to have at least as much reverence for the
institutions of their native land as the cosmopolitan population who
framed our laws and shaped our judicial decisions. And yet they
did not hesitate to unload the English riparian law and to declare
that the public interest must ever be regarded as paramount in the
water supply. Many pages could be filled with quotations from the
reports of these colonial commissioners, but these would only go to
confirm what has already been quoted from world-wide authorities.
VIEWS OF THE CAUFORNIA BXPERTS.
The experts who studied the typical streams of California are all
of one mind on the subject. But a few brief quotations will be of
interest.
Marsdon Manson said :
** Riparian riffhts have prevented and retarded irrigation development. If pos-
sible, the riparian rifirht should be restricted to low-water discharg-e of streams,
and this discharge determined by proper authority.**
J. M. Wilson said :
" The limits of the riparian rig-hts must be more clearly defined. As the matter
now stands, it may mean anything-. In departing- from the broad principle that
couns should be governed in their interpretation of law by the natural conditions
and necessities arrowing out of the environment of the people who make the courts,
we have been led into a mass of hopeless absurdities."
Prof. Marx said :
** The doctrine of riparian risrhts has been harmful to irrigation development,
and the California riparian law should be repealed/*
Prof. Soul^ said :
** The doctrine of riparian rights has exerted a most injurious infiuence on irri-
gation affairs. It has been the prolific source of litigation ; has g^reatly interfered
with and even debarred irrig-ation enterprises.*"
20TH CENTURY WEST. 395
C. B. Grunsky said :
" The extent and the priority of established rig-hts to water and to the use of
water should be ascertained and clearly defined, and the necessary water should be
allotted to riparian owners and to appropriators in accordance with their needs and
their rights."
E. M. Bog^gs said :
** Riparian rights should be made subordinate in all respects to rights of appro-
priation."
James D. Schuyler said :
"The application of the English common law doctrine of riparian rights to any
of the streams of Arid America is an absurdity and a misfortune which most
Western States and Territories, except California, have avoided. Always illogical
and inapplicable in a dry country where irrig-ation is required, it is particularly so
when applied to streams of an intermittent character which cannot be utilized with-
out storage reservoirs. The attempt to interfere with works of public necessity and
importance by the assertion of this doctrine, after the expenditure of large sums of
money, will always be made as long as the pernicious doctrine is adhered to in this
State."
These quotations from the reports of the experts by no means in-
dicate the entire result of their study of the laws. In another paper
we shall see the full scope of their recommendations and how com-
pletely they would dispose of the water monopoly in this State. We
shall see how this would be accomplished without injustice to vested
interests and with great gain to every element in the community.
JOHN W. POWEI*!* AND THBODORB ROOSEVELT.
One of the earliest and one of the ablest students of irrigation in
its broad economic aspects was Maj. John W. Powell, founder of the
Geological Survey and its Director under several administrations.
Many years ago he said :
** If in the eagerness of present development a land afid water system shall grow
up in which the practical control of agriculture shall fall into the hands of water
companies, evils will result therefrom that generations may not be able to correct,
and the very men who are now lauded as benefactors to the country will, in the un-
g-overnable reaction which is sure to come, be denounced as oppressors of the
people.
* The right to use water should inhere in the lands to be irrig-ated, and water
rights should go with land titles."
The evils which Maj. Powell predicted have resulted because, as
he feared, '* practical control of agriculture" has fallen into hands
of water companies. The reaction has set in. It is not " ungovern-
able ** in the sense that Maj. Powell probably meant to indicate, but
it is earnest and determined.
Finally, we have the President of the United States on record
against the vast evil involved in water monopoly. In writing to the
Irrigation Congress a year ago he said he favored public works be-
cause '* it is not possible, and, if it were possible, U would not be wise
to have this storage work done merely through private ownership."
And why not wise ? Because, as Theodore Roosevelt knows from his
residence in the arid region, when you permit one man to own the
water absolutely essential to the existence of others you give him
dangerous power over the lives and fortunes of his fellowmen.
Thank God there is a man in the White House who knows that fact !
Water monopoly in California, and throughout Arid America, is
doomed and must soon pass away. In its place will come just and
equal laws which shall unite water and land in one ownership, which
shall make public authority paramount, which shall provide public
systems of administration over appropriation and distribution of
supplies. These hopes cannot be realized, of course, until those in
power shall understand the people's wishes and carry them into
effect. But who chooses the men in power? The people choose
them, and to the people of California the friends of irrigation reform
will take thoir cause with perfect confidence in a triumphant result.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Pkov. C. D. Marx.
WHY THE FUTURE IS OURS.
In considering the chances for early success of the movement for
chanjfing' the legal basis of irrig'ation in California, and so laying'
the foundation for a stupendous social and economic development
during the next decade, there is one fact that shines out more
brightly than any other. This is the fact that our two great Uni-
versities are on the side of Progress and Reform. It is worth some-
thing to know that the most intelligent, the most disinterested, and,
therefore, the most patriotic influences in California are to be with
us in the impending struggle. Whut is more, it is a cheerful thought
that the future leaders of this State are growing up in institutions
where they will learn the true basis of the (economic prosperity of
California.
20TH CENTURY WEST. 397
Daniel Webster wa^ once interrupted in the midst of an outdoor
door si>eech by a noisy procession marching; through the streets.
" Never mind them," said the presiding officer at his side, "they are
nothinp but boys." "Yes," said the orator, "but these boys will
soon be men." Those boys became men, they ruled the destinies of
Massachusetts, and some of them were among the first regiments
Trho marched to battle to attack what Webster was then apologizing
for.
The boys of our Universities will soon be men. They will scatter
to the four corners of this imperial State, and wherever they go they
will carry the influence of a faculty that believes ia the public con-
trol of the water supply and knows that the extension of irrigation,
under wise laws, is vital not merely to the growth of the common-
wealth, but to the character of its civilization.
Two of the strongest men on last year's government Commission,
which cooperated with the Water and Forest Association in investi-
gating irrigation conditions, were Prof. Frank Soul6 of Berkeley
and Prof. Charles D. Mant of Stanford. Prof. Soul^ was assigned
to the San Joaquin River, while Prof. Marx studied the Salinas.
Their reports are of the highest educational value. They illustrate
a situation which had hitherto been shrouded in the darkness of liti-
gation and neighborhood strife. Bither of these reports, considered
by itself alone, will be worth the cost of the entire investigation if
the California public but reads and heeds them. The San Joaquin
Kiver offered a much better subject than the Salinas because its
waters had been much more generally used than the latter. Prof.
Soul^ made the most of his opportunity, not even neglecting its
humorous possibilities. But though irrigation is comparatively new
in Monterey County, Prof. Marx found that the wonderful irrigation
laws of California had managed to get the people in pretty serious
trouble there, also. He arose from the writing of his report one of
the strongest and most insistent water reformers in the State. If
the recommendations of these two luminous reports are carried out
the beautiful valleys traversed by the San Joaquin and Salinas will
behold a transformation, and many an acre now reserved for four-
footed beasts will be brightened with the homes of men.
And it is because such men as Soul£ and Marx are educating the
coming Governors, lawmakers, and farmers of California that we
know the future is destined to be brilliant with achievement.
Santa Barbara.
Of T ha.s possibly been borne in upon readers of this magazine —
I perhaps on nearly every one who knowns anything at all about
* California — that the climatic and other conditions of the State
as a whole are auch as to make living better worth whil= than any-
where else this side of Paradise. But even in California there are
grades of climatic excellence — from "better to best"— though the
precise grading of any particular locality, it must be admitted, will
depend very largely on the individual taste of the observer. In the
" best" class, by general consent, Santa Barljara must be ranked,
and not one of those who know and love it best will admit any lower
place for it than the very head of the list.
It is unquestionable that the topographic conditions of Santa Bar-
bara— and these are, of course, most important factors in modifying
climate— are not precisely matched anywhere else in the State. The
general tread of the coast line is from northwest to southeast. At
Point Concepcion (about two-thirds of the distance from north to
south) the line swerves sharply inward, and for about seventy miles
runs as nearly as possible due east, then resuming again the south-
easterly direction. Parallel with the coast, and only a few miles
distant from it — sometimes, indeed, sending foothill spurs right
down to the water's edge — the Santa Ynez range of mountains rises
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
abruptly more than three thousand feet, forming a permanent bar-
rier to the norhleast winds. And to complete the protection of this
sheltered spot, twenty-five miles out to sea the Channel Islands
stand as a lofty barrier ag-ainat storms from the west or southwest.
At a point on this southerly shore where the beach curves in a
crescent miles long and the foothills stand apart to make room for a
broad and gently sloping valley, is the city of Santa Barbara. Shut
in, therefore, on three aides by mountains and hills, opening only to
the south upon the sun-wanned and qui«t waters of Santa Barbara
Channel, the climate of the city is singularly uniform throughout
the year. There is no extreme heat in summer— hardly even a " hot
SANTA BARBARA.
daj." The thermometer will hardly re^ater 90° three times during
the year, and has reached 100° but tmice in a generation, influenced
in both cases by the forest fires in the near-by mountains. Extremes
of cold are even more conspicuouBly absent, the freezing point (32°)
having been recorded but three times in fifteen years, and then only
for a short time just before sunrise.
This is not the place for extended records of temperature, but a
few striking atatemenla of facts and comparisons must find room.
The average monthly temperature at Santa Barbara shows a range
of less than fourteen degrees — from 53° in January to 66.6° in
August. This is less than the difference between Portland, Maine and
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
A PAHOHAMIC \
abrupt!)' more than three thousand feet, fortntng' a permanent bar-
rier to the norhleast winds. And to complete the protection of this
sheltered spot, twenty-five miles out to sea the Channel Islands
stand as a loftj barrier against storms from the west or southwest.
At a point on this southerly shore where the beach curves in a
crescent miles long and the foothills stand apart to make room for a
broad and gently sloping vallevi is the city of Santa Bart>ara. Shut
in, therefore, on three sides by mountains and hills, opening only to
the south upon the sun-warmed and quiet waters of Santa Barbara
Chaanel, the climate of the city is singularly uniform throughout
the year. There is no extreme heat in summer — hardly even a " hot
SANTA BARBARA.
day." The thermometer will hardly register 90° three times during
the year, and has reached 100° but twice in a g-eneration, influenced
in both cases by the forest fires in the near-by mountains. Estremea
of cold are even more conspicuously absent, the freezing point {32°}
having been recorded but three times in fifteen years, and then only
for a short time just before sunrise.
7his is not the place for extended records of temperature, but a
few striking statements of facts and comparisons must find room.
The average monthly temperature at Santa Barbara shows a range
of less than fourteen degrees — from 53° in January to 66.6° in
August. This is less than the difference between Portland, Maine and
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
abrupttj more than three thousand feet, forming' a permanent bar-
rier to the norUteast Trinda. And to complete the protection of this
sheltered spot, twenty-five miles out to sea the Channel Islands
stand as a lofty barrier against storms from the west or southwest.
At a point on this southerly shore where the beach curves in a
crescent mitea long and the foothills stand apart to make room for a
broad and gentlj sloping valley, is the city of Santa Barbara. Shu t
in, therefore, on three sides by mountains and hills, opening only to
the south upon the sun-warmed and quiet waters of Santa Barbara
Channel, the climate of the city is singularly uniform throughout
the jrear. There ia no extreme heat in summer — hardly even a " hot
SANTA BARBARA.
day." The thermometer will hardly register 90° three times during'
the year, and has reached 100° but twice in a generation, influenced
in both cases by the forest fires in the near-by mountains. Extremes
of cold are even mare conspicuously absent, the freezing' point (33°)
having been recorded but three times in fifteen years, and then only
for a short time jnst before sunrise.
This is not the place for extended records of temperature, but a
few striking statements of facts and comparisons must find room.
The average monthly temperature at Santa Bart>ara shows a range
of less than fourteen degrees — from 53° in January to 66,6° in
August. This is less than thedifference between Portland, Maine and
Photo, by Newlan.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
abruptly more than three thouaaud feet, forming a permanent bar-
rier to the norlileast niads. And to complete the protection of this
sheltered spot, twenty-iive miles out to sea the Channel Islands
stand as a lofty barrier against storms from the west or southwest.
At a point on this southerly shore where the beach curves in a
crescent miles long and the foothills stand apart to make room for a
broad and gently sloping valley, is the city of Santa Barbara. Shut
in, therefore, on three sides by mountains and hills, opening only to
the south upon the sun-warmed and quiet waters of Santa Barbara
Channel, the climate of the city is singularly uniform throughout
the year. There is no extreme heat in summer — hardly even a " hot
SANTA BARBARA.
Photo, oj Reed.
day." The thermometer will hardly regrister 90° three times during
the year, and haa reached 100° but twice in a generation, influenced
in both cases by the forest tires in the near-by mountains. Extremes
of cold are even more conspicuously absent, the freezing point (32°)
having been recorded but three times in fifteen years, and then only
for a short time just before sunrise.
This is not the place for extended records of temperature, but a
few striking statements of facts and comparisons must find room.
The average monthly temperature at Sa.nta Barbara shows a range
of less than fourteen degrees — from 53° in January to 66.6° in
August. This is less than the difference between Portland, Maine and
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Santa Barbara Rohes. Photo, by Lcaeta.
Philadelphia for the single month of May. It is also less than the
difference at Atlantic City between April and June. No month at
Santa Barbara is so cold as April at Atlantic City nor so warm as
June at the same place. Perhaps, however, the moat vivid impres-
sion of the uniformity of the year-round climate at this favored spot
will be found in a comparative table, which shows that January in
Santa Barbara corresponds in avemg'c temperature to May at Nan-
tucket, February to May at Atlantic City, March to May at Norfolk,
Va., April to May at Portland, Me., May to the same month at New
Sakta Barbara a
SANTA BARBARA.
SPOUT AT Low TlDB. PIlOlO. bf R«d.
Haveo, Ct., June to May in New York City, July to May at Phila-
delphia, August to May at Washington, September to May at Brook-
lyn, October to May at New London, Ct., and November and Decem-
ber to May at Portland, Me. Truly here the dream of a land where
the year is " one eternal May" is fairly realized.
Jusl a few more statistics on the weather question, and we shall
have done. The averagre velocity of the «ind is abbut four miles an
E CaRun Drive. Photo*, by Kml.
SANTA BARBARA. W7
hour, the total nind movement being nearly equal winter and
summer. The average annual relative humidity is 71°, being lower
in winter than in summer, and lower throughout the year than at
other points on the coast. One may
count on about 240 at>solutely clear
days during the year, from 50 to 60
fair days, 30 to 40 cloudy days, and
at>out 30 days during which some
rain falls. Practically all the rain
falls t>etween Novemt>er and April.
Such fogs as appear come in mostly
during the night and disappear rap-
idly before the rays of the sun.
These figurea may seem somewhat
dull, but the significance of them for
health and comfort can hardly be
overestimated. They mean that there
is no day in the year when the in-
valid need fear that weather condi-
tions will place any obstacle in the
way of regaining strength, nor when
the person in more robust health
need have the full joy of living clouded
by discomfort from that source. Taken
in connection with the perfect drain-
age, the fine mountain water, the free-
dom from both endemic and epidemic
disease, and the constant invitation to
and opportunity for outdoor living, they
mean that Santa Barbara is one of the
healthiest spots in the world. And
the phenomenally low death-rate con-
firms this deduction beyond possible
One conspicuous and interesting re-
sult of these conditions is the great
variety and luxuriance of plant-life,
both native and exotic. On this point.
Dr. F. Franceschi, who has for many
years mainly occupied himself with
introducing and acclimatizing new
flowers, shrubs and trees from all
parts of the world, writes :
" Santa Barbara is known at present
all over the world as the place where
the largest number of plants, from
widely difTerent climates, have con- I'limo. bs
408 LAND OF SUNSHfNE.
greg3.ted to live happily together, and often will thrive with more
vigor than in their native countries. Mainly two factors have
contributed to bring these results. The first is nature, namely, the
special topographic and climatic conditions of this spot. The local
meteorological records for over 30 years, when carefully compared
with other localities of Southern California, unquestionably show
that Santa Barbara enjoys the privilege of higher rainfall, and of
less variation l)etween the different seasons of the year, consequently
the growth of most plants is continuous, and they will attain here
larger size and come into bearing much earlier than in other places.
The other factor is man, who in this case has wonderfully cooperated
with nature. Ever since the first establishment of the Old Mission,
more than a century ago, a much larger number of plants was intro~
duced here from foreign countries than in other localities of Cali-
fornia, and a smaller number of them have been lost, because they
found here more congenial conditions. At the beginning of the new
century, it is safe to say, that there are grown, in the open, at Santa
Barbara not less than 150 different species of palms, about the same
number of conifers, 50 species of bamboos, about 300 of vines or
climbers, and something like 2,000 different species between trees,
shrubs and perennials. They have convened here from the hottest
and from the coldest regions of the globe, as well as from the tem-
perate one, and they combine to make a display of vegetation that
have no rivals anywhere else."
As for roses and the more familiar garden flowers their profusion
at all seasons of the year is fairly bewildering. Bven more interest-
ing to the botanist, or, indeed, to most genuine flower lovers, are the
native wild-flowers which, in their season, carpet field and hillside.
But climate and flowers bv no means exhaust the natural charms
of Santa Barbara. Picturesquely located as it is— in the lap of the
mountains with the summer sea at its feet — one might spend many a
week in riding, driving, or walking through the near-by country, re-
turning each day before nightfall, and making each day a trip both
new and interesting. From the smoothly macadamized boulevard,
which runs for a couple of miles right along the edge of the Pacific,
to the steep and rugged trails which lift rapidly to the summit of the
Santa Ynez range is but a few miles, and one may get almost any
desired combination of ocean, valley and mountain scenery within
the compass of a few hours. Canon and mesa and smooth, hard,
sandy beach, orchards of olive, lemon or walnut, miles of densely-
timbered forest reserve, acres of strawberries from which ripe fruit
may be gathered any week in the year, leaping waterfalls, and long,
quiet roads through fertile valleys dotted with lovely homes — these
offer but a suggestion of the choice that is near at hand.
For salt-water bathing, if the ocean itself — with a temperature
from 68° to 74° for much of the year and rarely below 60° at any
time — does not preci&ely suit, there is a dainty new bath-house on the
Plaza del Mar, %vhich should meet the most exacting requirements.
SANTA BARBARA. 4"
For boating- or yachting, the Santa Barbara channel is one of the
finest stretches in the world, offering- ample sea room for an extended
run yet so protected as to be entirely safe at all times. The trip
across the channel to the Channel Islands — San Mig-uel, Santa Rosa,
Santa Crus and Anacapa — ia one of great interest. They are, in
reality, only the tops of what was once a mountain range, parallel
with the Santa Ynez and a part of the mainland. Their shores are
in the main very precipitous, perpendicular bluffs often rising hun-
dreds of feet right out of the sea. Picturesque and profusely covered
with vegetation, one of them might easily, in the right hands, be-
come a pleasure resort unrivalled anywhere except by Catalina
An Old Adobe. PUoio. b) Rwd.
Island. Even the great tuna, which has attracted fishermen from
all over the world to Catalina. is found here in abundance, while the
yellowtail, sea-bass, jew fish, barracuda, and others offer sport
a-plenty to devotees of the rod and reel.
What of the city which has grown up amid such surroundings?
In the first place, it is a little city as cities go nowadays, counting
scant 8.000 residents within the two miles square which bound it.
And it is a restful city — "sleepy" it might be called by those who
count life best occupied in madly chasing dollars some of the time
and throwing them away the rest of it. If to be prosperous, to be con-
tented, to be beautiful, to be reasonably well-satisfied with itself but
continually striving for solid improvement be symptoms of sleepi-
ness, Santa Barbara has them all — and is proud of it.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
IK Santa Bahbaka. Ptaoio. bj- I>acli.
One of the oldest citie» in
California— it was founded in
1782 by Fray Juntpero Serra^
the " local color " of Santa Bar-
bara has retained a deeper tinj^e
from the yearn before the Ameri-
can occupation than any other
pla.ce in the State approaching'
its site, and is all the more inter-
esting for that reason. Full
twenty per cent, of its popula-
tion are of Spanish descent, and
one considerable part of the city,
but a stone's throw from the
chief thoroughfare, is still given
over to the old adobe houses.
The Old Mission, on the heights
just outside the city limits, is the
best preserved mission building
in California, and the only one
in which the ministration of the
Franciscans has never been inter-
rupted. It is now the headquar-
ters of the Franciscan Order on
this coast, and near it has just
been completed an impressive
stone building to house a college
for the training of yoiing men
desiring to enter the order.
The Mission was established
in 1786, but most of the pres-
ent buildini^ date no further
back than 1820. If there
were nothing els« to attract
to Santa Barbara, the Mis-
sion alone would repay a long
pilgrimage to one who can
really see and understand.
The street-names of Santa
Barbara are worth an article
by themselves. Nowisealder-
manic body has cancelled the
historic old Spanish and In-
dian names to replace them by
numbers or to embalm the
memory of local politicians.
The consequence is that
every name has a story at-
tached, and one mif^ht spend
time with less profit than in
learninir the names and the
stories. For instance. Canon
Perdido (lost cannon) street
commemorates the stealing by
patriotic native Califomiana
of a brass twelve -pounder
brought here in 1847 by the in-
vading American troops. The
local authorities could not or
would not restore it upon de-
mand, whereupon the military
governor fined the town five
hundred dollars, and sent a
cavalry company up from Los
Angeles to enforce collection.
Uuinientos (500) street was
named in ru^ul honor of the
fine, while the governor who
imposed it — Mason — also im-
posed his name upon the adja-
cent street. Salsipuede<"get-
out-if-you-can " ) street is
seamed nith ravines and
gulches, while Anapamu, Yan-
onali and Valario were named
for Indians of various renown.
41* LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Conspicuously a c'Aj of refined and culti vated homes, Santa Bar-
bara's educational facilities are excellent. Some 1,700 children are
enrolled at the public schools, which include kindergarten, grammar
and high schools, and a manual training- school— the pioneer, by the
way, of sloyd work in the State. Besides these are a business -col-
lege, a collegiate school, St. Anthony's College (Franciscan) and the
St. Vincent school for girls. The public library, with over 13,000
twund volumes, and a large and well-selected list of periodicals, is
open to visitors as well as to residents of the city.
The clubs form a prominent feature of Santa Barbara social life.
The Union Club Includes the more prominent of the older c
Thb New Fkancibcan Colleqe Phoio. by EdwarflB.
while the Santa Barbara Club is more favored by the younger men.
The Santa Barbara Country Club has its beautiful house and grounds
at Montecito on a bluS overlooking the ocean, and is hospitable and
delightful. The Women's Club has its own quarters and is a factor
of growing importance in the community. The Polo Club, with a
superb field, the Coif Club, whose links are exceedingly picturesque
as well as "sporting," and the Gun Club, with an unusually line
preserve on Lake Guadalupe, fill their respective spheres to the sat-
isfaction of both members and guests.
Only just outside the category of clubs stands the Chamber of
Commerce, which has its own home on the main street, and keeps
open doors, witti a cordial welcome on tap for all comers.
Of the hotels, the Arlington's supremacy has long been unchal-
lenged, but there are many eTcellent smaller places, and a long-
talked-of plan to put up a superb modern hotel fronting on the ocean
seems to be nearing realisation. Certainly the opening to through
SANTA BARBARA.
BoTEL. Photo, by Reed.
barely tio-sr accompUshed — will add immensely to the tide of tourist
travel to Santa Barbara.
It is safer to refrain from prophecy. Yet when so many condi-
tions unite to make Santa Barbara a perfect home for people
of culture and refinement who can choose where they ahall live, one
risks nothing in predicting- that it will become one of the most beauti-
ful and attractive cities in all the lands. Never a "great" city,
never a commercial metropolis — these would bLot its peculiar charm.
Only just as perfect a place to home in as there is anywhere.
Of all the holy calendar, tradition has it that Saint Barbara was
the fairest to look upon. As she assumed the crown of virg-in mar-
tyrdom rather more than sixteen centuries ago, this assertion cannot
well be either confirmed or disproved. But let her have t>een never
ao lovely and gracious, there will be few to dispute that the City of
Santa Barbara worthily bears her name.
416
Los Angeles as a Wholesale Center.
EFORE the railways came to Los Ang-eles there were two or
three houses in the city that called themselves ** Wholesale
and Retail '* by reason of the fact that they distributed some
of the goods broug'ht into San Pedro by water to the dealers
in the small towns and mining camps in the interior. Although not
literally a seaport, Los Anjjeles is near enough to the ocean to enjoy
the advantag^es of water traffic, provided its people choose to put
forth the energy that is needed to make up for the 20 miles of separa-
tion. Fortunately this city has from the very beginning of its com-
mercial existence had enterprising and courageous men who have
seized every opportunity that came to hand for the development of
trade.
When the Central Pacific crossed the mountains, Los Angeles had
a large part of the Salt Lake City trade, the Arizona and Nevada
trade, which was chiefly with mining camps, the trade with Inyo and
Kern counties, and with the interior cities of Southern California.
Most of the port towns of Southern California were controlled from
San Francisco, and the merchants of the latter city, indeed, did a
good part of the business in Los Angeles city. As far back as 1866,
however, there was one Los Angeles wholesale house that kept one
member of the firm in New York city as a permanent representative.
The construction of the Central Pacific cut ofl:' the Salt Lake trade
and gave it to San Francisco, the Carson and Colorado road took
away Inyo county, and when the Southern Pacific came down into
the San Joaquin Valley the business of that section naturally went
north.
In 1877 the Southern Pacific entered Los Angeles from the north,
and a few years later established a connection with the Texas Pacific
through to the Kast. Los Angeles was given the advantage of ter-
minal rates from Eastern points ; that is to say, it cost no more to
ship from New York or Chicago to Los Angeles than from those
points to San Francisco. This was a recognition on the part of the
railway of the presence of ocean competition at Los Angeles, and
was indeed the basis of its wholesale commercial life. The Inter-
State Commerce Commission has since then held that a distance of
20 miles from the coast, which can easily be covered by teaming,
entitles a city to water competitive privileges in its railway rates.
This enables the Los Angeles wholesale merchant — or jobber, as he
calls himself in the trade — to bring goods clear through from the
East at the same figure he would have to pay for carrying them by
water, and then distribute them on local rates back into Arizona and
throughout Southern California.
In 1885 the Santa F^ line came through from Chicago, and a pas-
senger and freight war began which settled the region with great
rapidity ; and although it threw business for a time into utter confu-
sion, in the end it made Los Angeles a veritable jobbing center. Los
Angeles street, the old hay market, being a wide thoroughfare and
convenient for teaming, was the natural home of this line of trade.
From 1887 to the present time the jobbing business of the city has
increa.sed in almost an even ratio, until now it occupies about a mile
of frontage, includes over 100 houses, and covers every kind of com-
modity.
Considering the adverse conditions under which wholesale trade
has been carried on by Los Angeles, it is surprising that the city has
succeeded in acquiring the volume it now enjoys. There is a natural
tendency on the part of railways not to increase the number of job-
bing centers and not to encourage the growth of the smaller places
LOS ANGELES AS A WHOLESALE CENTER. 417
more than is necessary. The evident reason for that policy lies in
the fact that it pays a railroad better to mass its heaviest business at
a few points rather than to spread it out over a number of places. It
is cheaper to carry a thousand trainloads of low-priced freight to one
place than to carry 100 trainloads to each of ten places.
There is no desire on the part of the railroads to be unjust or to
favor one place as against another, but they must of necessity seek
the most economical methods of distributing the traffic. Hence in
their adjustment of rates they instinctively favor a large jobbing
center like San Francisco as against a smaller one like I^os Angeles —
just as the average merchant is disposed to extend favors to
a big customer that he avoids offering to a small one. Then,
again, railroads are nervous about making changes in their tariffs,
for a little disturbance at one point sometimes disarranges rates over
a wide area, and may, perhaps, involve considerable loss of revenue to
the company. Now the freight rates of California were originally
framed on the theory that there were only two legitimate jobbing
centers, to- wit, San Francisco and Sacramento. Other places — five
in number — were given terminal rates, but local rates leading out
from them were not adjusted with a view to allowing much oppor-
tunity for jobbing business. Fortunately, when the Santa Fe came
in, there was a great shaking up of rates, and in the readjustment
Los Angeles gained several points, but on the next general shaking
up — in 1894-S— L/OS Angeles lost some of the gain. The fact that the
city was not directly on the water front was against it with reference
to the coast traffic, and the absence of a deep-water harbor cut off
the possibility of Oriental commerce.
In spite of this and other difficulties the jobbing trade of the city
has more than held its own with the development in other lines of
business. San Francisco competition, which at one time was active
throughout the whole of Southern California, is reduced to a mini-
mum. Most of what now exists is carried on through local branches
of San Francisco houses. As these local establishments carry a
large stock and operate their Southern California business independ-
ently of the main house, they are entitled to rank — with respect to
the general jobbing trade of Los Angeles — exactly as though they
were genuine local houses. A number of Eastern houses keep
traveling men in this region, but they do not interfere seriously with
the Los Angeles merchants until the Arizona territory is reached.
At the point where the freight rate from Chicago or St. Louis equals
the through rate to the coast plus the local rate back, the Eastern
jobber meets the Los Angeles jobber on equal terms, and beyond
that point the Easterner is in control.
The division of territory along this coast to the north has long
been regulated by the rates of the steamship line which put the
center south of Ventura, in spite of the fact that the geographical
center is at San Luis Obispo. The reason for that lay in the haul
by rail from Los Angeles to the seaboard which raised the tariff for
the Los Angeles jobber and, in effect, increased his distance. When
the coast railway line was completed, however, the rates were made
to center on San Luis Obispo and Los Angeles gained a strip of new
territory that will in time yield good business.
More important than that was the gain recently achieved in the
San Joaquin Valley by the promise on the part of the Southern Pa-
cific to put out a new tariff materially reducing the rates now paid
by Los Angeles shippers into that region. Heretofore the rates to
Bakersfield have been practically equal from San Francisco and Los
Angeles, and north of that city the differentials have favored San
Francisco, increasing as they went north until by the time Fresno
was reached the Los Angeles merchant could do no business at all.
ThU matter bas be«a a soarce of diapote for
Lob Ang'Clem hOB been thui far entirelj shut out of the Mexican and Central
American trade, and it does no business witb the Orient. These are conditioaa that
are likclj- to change as soon as the harbor is completed. The construction of the
line to Salt Lake and to Inyo count; will give this city valuable trade acquisitions in
those fields. Within the next five or six jears some remarkalile developments ire
o be expected in the wholesale busittess of Los Angeles.
DECEMBER, I901
Vol. XV. No. 6 /
enceforth«OUT WEST^'f'
^ THE LAND OF
SUNSHINE
CALIFORNIA AND THE WEST
EDITED BY CHAS. F. LUMMtS
FROM AND AFTER NEXT MONTH, WHICH BEGINS
VOL. XVI. THIS MAGAZINE WILL BE KNOWN AS
OUT WEST
A MAOAZINE OF
THE. OLD PACiriC AND THE NEW
The LAND OF SUNSHINE has not aold out. ^one oul
nor changed. It has simply- ^rown. It will still ie
THE MAGAZINE OF THE WEST-'only more so."
AAAAAVlA/lAA/l/lAAAAAAAAAMA/"
10.'
CENTS LOS MGCLES SAN fRANCISCO
at
MISCELLANEOUS
CL CD
r
HARVARD UNIVERSITY.
Bl
LIBRARY
U^. FEABODY HUSEUM OF AMEBIOAS
ABOESOLOSY AND ETHNOLOGY.
»
:^
\TS
3LES
)urist
otel
M Ang^eleA
Every Modern
Comfort Attd Convenience
that can be found bi
aay Hotel.
Unsurpuied Golf Linka.
F. O. JOHNSON, Proprietor
R AT Pala. iS« Tlie Lan
Vol. is, no. 6 December. 1901
The Burgher's Wife.
i l« tki Brithk DilmliBH Camp.)
3, the guard goes heavily, the sun
;s on the roof,
ars the sick ones moaning but he
I his eyes aloof ;
.ven is only sun-glare, dust-devils on
veldt.
We could not pray the clouds up, however
long we knelt.
There are women who are sullen, there are women who are
wild.
And one perhaps is hopeful, but that one has no child ;
Katrina raved when yesternoon they took her last away,
Annetje's went at candle light, and mine will go today.
And is it you, brave England, that holds us in the
pen —
Making war on wives and children, since you cannot
match our men ?
Will you swallow up our nation, make our name as
naught, you think ?
By the living God of Dutchmen, you shall spew the
broth you drink !
CoprriiKt I3D1 by Luid of Sunihin* PublMiIni Co.
^24 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
I had seven sons, how long ago! Seven and my good man.
And Greta — only woman-child that came to me and Jan —
Six strong sons of my body, and one that still was small ;
They were stout for war or praying, and their country took
them all —
The wolf, the kite, the river trench, by kopje and by veldt,
I did not weep, though all their wounds I in my body felt ;
It was I that scoured their rifles — one had hardly done with
play—
I did not weep to see them go, but I shall weep today.
And is it wise, Great England, to build yoiir great-
ness so ?
You that fatten on small peoples — though, God's
faith, the meal is slow I —
Growing wider by the holdings of a simpler, feebler
folk.
It is fatness where no strength is, and you too shall
feel the yoke.
But once I wept for Wilhelm — he had his father's looks —
The day that he was turned sixteen he put away his books,
'* Now, kiss me mpther, let me go, for I am grown a man" —
And so I wept for Wilhelm, though I did not weep for Jan.
And for myself no whimper. I am past my bearing time.
But I weep to know my woman-child must die before'.her
prime.
Is no coolness on the pillow for the tender, fevered head ?
Is no comfort in the sickness but my tear, and captive's
bread ?
It is not for you, O England, to give me back m^^
sons.
We have paid the tale twice over by the coughing,
spitting guns;
But the small graves of the children, they are yawn-
ing in the sod —
Deep enough to gulf your glory — high to witness
unto God.
Independence. Cal.
425
A Week of Wonders.
II.
UNRISE of Oct. 24th saw us stringing-
out under a dense cloud that brooded
upon the Continental Divide, headed for
the Chaco Canon, 65 miles north. Our pro-
cession was as it were a hyphen from the
old days to the new ; for perhaps never be-
fore did New Mexico witness a retinue not
only of seven or eight honest Studebakers,
with wagon-sheets and bows, and as many
saddle-horses of all degrees from my Navajo matalotc to
'* Dick's" magnificent mount — but even a barouche and a V-^
pneumatic-tired buggy. At the latter, the very roads of
New Mexico might have been expected to *' pitch." This
varied outfit was of the Hyde Exploring Expedition — a
morganatic marriage of commerce with science ; its ex-
pectation of posterity being to corner the Navajo blanket
market in particular, and to amass archaeological knowl-
edge and specimens for the American Museum of Natural
History, New York. Whatever shall be the issue of these
parental forecasts, there is no doubt of the present status
of the concern. Anyone who has known the eflScient lay
work done for years among the cliflf-dwellers of the " San
Juan country," or ever met that small, steel-sinewed,
square-jawed, silent person who has conquered the love of
the Navajos, the Richard Wether ill who is manager of the
"H. E. E.," will know that things will be done according
to whatever program the ultimate heads shall have wisdom
to outline. For the rest, it is enough to say here that Mr.
Wetherill handled the problem of such a party in a way to
win admiration and gratitude.
Up the long *' draws" between the red mesas, down the
tortuous windings of the Canon Agua Negra Chiquita — at
whose well we made noon camp — and out into the impres-
sive plains we struggled. A few of us made a short detour
and picked up pottery and bits of turquoise at the lonely
little prehistoric ruin of Ki-a-a, the " Pueblo Alto" of the
Mexicans of San Mateo — a many-storied building whose
highest point was square outside and round within. At
night we camped at the Pintado, where there is a seep of
fair water, and where Mr. Wetherill had pitched seven
tents for our party. The fifty or sixty Navajos who were
along needed no such luxuries ; but around our campfire
they gave us, after our supper and our singing, an extremely
interesting and barbaric dance.
In time for early dinner next day we were in Chaco
*26 LAND OF SUNSHINIl.
Caoon, where Mr. Wetherill's homestead and the H. E. E-
store fairly jostle the bones of the past. He has built be-
side the ruins of that wonderful structure the Pueblo
Bonito, and even occupies some of its ancient rooms. Down
by the " boarding-house," a couple of hundred yards west,
are the ruins of the Pueblo del Arroyo ; quarter of a mile
east — under the same fine cliff which walls the valley on
B Pueblo dei. Arrovo. Photo, by Cha«
the north — are the ruins of Chetro-Kettle ; and upon the
cliff itself, a little back, are two other immemorial ruins
The whole region is peppered with them.
This is not the place for a description nor for a discus-
sion of the Chaco ruins. The accompanying photographs
and a few data about the Pueblo Bonito must suffice here.
Those who care to know more may go and see these aston-
ishing monuments, and consult the works of Bandelier,
Lieut. Simpson (1849), W. H. Jackson (1874). and the other
interesting brochures of Dr. Pepper of the American
Museum of Natural History.
PKBB. RlPLBV'B Pahtv C
North Wall or Ki-a-«. Rhoto. by Chas. P. Ldd
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
The Pueblo Bonito is built in a semicircle, apparently
symmetrical, but really not so, its chord facing the arroyo
in the middle of the narrow valley, its arc toward the
hundred-foot ciiff, which is the valley's northern bound.
The chord measures 540 feet ; the distance from it to the
zenith of the arc is 350 feet ; the total perimeter was about
1300 feet. The pueblo was in fact one huge building, in
parts four stories high. Mr. Wetherill— who has, by prac-
tical experience, the best right to know — estimates that it
contains at least 1200 rooms. It was the only other pueblo
in New Mexico in the same category as Pecos CCoronado's
"Cicuye"). the latter being a little the larger, but both ex-
" Cbrbuohmi. Trench." Photo, by Cba«. P. Lnmmis.
A WEEK OF WONDERS. 437
ceeding by much any other Indian town in the United
States in prehistoric times. About 180 rooms have already
been excavated — or, counting additional stories, where they
existed, about 360. Nearest the cliff the walls still stand
full 30 feet high. In some of the ground-floor rooms, which
have been excavated, the wooden ceilings and lintels are
apparently as perfect as the day they were put in place.
The estuf as, of which some half-dozen have been uncovered,
have some remarkable features, (see Dr. Pepper's paper).
But perhaps even more than by the area, height and plan
of this noble ruin, the visitor will be impressed by its mag-
nificent masonry, of which the photographs give but an
inadequate idea. One can hardly blame the *' arm-chair
explorer," for the first time confronted with these beautiful
walls, who declares that they are *'of cut stone." Of
course there was no cut-stone masonry in ancient New
Mexico ; the friendly fractures of the Sandstones were
enough. But outside the peerless bronze-tool carvings of
Cuzco and Tiahuanaco and their class, I know no other
walls quite so impressive. You can run a spade down them
as you would a plank ; and while our modern masonry is
very different, it is no more expert. In the rooms filled with
the debris of ruin, the excavators have found an enormous
quantity of valuable antiquities.
On the second ledge of the big northerly mesa is a re-
markable trench running some hundreds of yards but only
about three inches wide and three deep. It runs up hill
and down, and could not, therefore, have served as a run
for water. About a dozen feet south of it are the remains
of a wall, which was, perhaps, waist-high. Its utility is
obscure ; but it was probably ceremonial. The photo-
graph shows a few rods of its course. The figure beside
it is that of a Harvard A.B. and A.M., studying here for
his Ph. D., and already deep in the language and lore of
the Navajos — Mr. A. M. Tozzer. Another recent Harvard
graduate, Mr. J. L. Clarke, is also at Pueblo Bonito. It is
highly typical of the West that here, in about as remote a
corner as '* civilized" people ever get to, the Chautauquan
smatterer from Boston or New York runs against men who
can correct his accent.
The party had twenty-four hours at Pueblo Bonito and
its circumjacent ruins ; acquired many curios and more
photographs ; reversed its itinerary, via Pintado, Ki-a-a,
Canon Agua Negra Chiquita, with keen interest and entire
comfort ; and at dark on the 27th the special rolled west-
ward from Thoreau, bound for the Grand Canon of the
Colorado. L.
The Pomo Indian Baskets and Their
Makers.
'IFTY years ago the many wild, mountain-
hemmed valleys of Lake and Mendocino
counties were each the home of one or
several small Indian tribes entirely inde-
pendent of all others, and speaking: a
language at best only partly intelligible
to their nearest neighbors. The Fran-
ciscan Fathers, who had gathered the
tribes of the central and southern parts of California into
the Missions, now California's most picturesque ruins, had
11 niaB*Ilne for April. 1901. Mr.
tii> series of
ttliatied. Fol-
**0 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
never gained a hold on the secluded mountaineers. The
traders of the Hudson Bay Company, whose influence upon
the Indians of the great Northwest is still so apparent,
had not come so far south, while the Mexican soldiers who
attempted to penetrate these fastnesses met with a recep-
tion so warm that it was still fresh in their memory when,
in the year 1846, the United States succeeded Mexico as
sovereign of California.
At that date these little tribes were scarcely more affected
by civilization than when Columbus discovered the New
World.
In the early 'Fifties, American settlers began to push
into the beautiful valleys which had so long been their
homes. At first they were not molested by the Indians,
and it was only when unprincipled scoundrels had kid-
napped their children by scores to be sold into slavery and
otherwise most outrageously maltreated them that they
tose and killed several of their worst enemies. The usual
result happened. The Indians of the Clear Lake regfion
fled to an island which stands among the marshes at
the upper end of the lake, an ancient stronghold of theirs.
They were pursued by soldiers and defeated. The peace
then made has never been broken. The Indians returned
to their homes, where they still live.
The tribes of northeastern Mendocino county were of a
«2 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
different race and more warlike character. Their resist-
ance was more stubborn ; and, according to the old settlers,
there was a considerable period of frontier warfare. When
the Indians of that region were conquered they were placed
upon the Round Valley Indian reservation, where they
now are.
The leading tribes of Mendocino county are the Sanclos
of Sanel Valley, the Yokayos of Ukiah Valley, the Ballo
Kai Pomo of Potter Valley, the Ukis of Round Valley,
and the Calpellas. Four tribes lived about the upper end
of Clear Lake ; of these, three are practically consolidated.
In Big Valley, west of the lake, were the Kabenapo and
the Palanapo. Most of these are now collected in a mission
near Kelseyville under the care of the Franciscan Fathers.
At the southern end of the lake are the Lower Lakes, the
Makhekhel of some writers. In northern Sonoma county
the Wappos lived in Alexander Valley, the Gallynomeros
about Healdsburg. Along the Mendocino coast were
several other tribes, while the lesser valleys each harbored
one. In all there were something like thirty of these little
tribes, no one of which probably numbered over 500 people,
each with its own chief and a language more or less dis-
tinct— as separate from its neighbor as France is from
444 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Italy. Often the Indians at one end of a valley could not
converse with their nei^^hbors at the other end ; and, in-
deed, at this late day, the Indians aboriginal to the two
ends of Ukiah Valley (which is about eight miles lonff )
find English the more convenient language when they meet.
In the language of the Indians of Upper Ukiah, Red-
wood and Potter Valleys, the word Porno means *' people,"
while in the northern Lake county Napo has the
same meaning. Thus in the tongue of the former the
Potter Valley Indians are the Ballo Kai Pomo, or Oat
Valley People ; those of Ukiah, Yokai Pomo, or South
Valley People y the lake tribes, Shoke Pomo or Lake
People.* Similarly in Lake county, the tribes on the hilly
edge of Big Valley were Kabenapo or Rock People.
Those who lived down by the waters of Clear Lake were
Talanapo or Pond Lily People, and that tribe which lived
in the bushy region along Cache Creek were Khinapo or
Wood People, etc. As will be seen all tribal names were
descriptive with the suffix People.
Properly speaking, therefore, there is no such a tribe as
the Pomos.
The name Pomo was first used by Mr. Stephen Powers,
whose studies of the California Indians from 1873 to 1876
were embodied in a most interesting volume of the United
States Government Reports in 1876. Mr. Powers's use of
the word was in designating a linguistic group rather than
a tribe proper, and in that sense it is now accepted by the
best authorities.
The customs, arts and physiognomies of all of the tribes
I have mentioned are very similar, and while there is much
diflFerence in language there is sufficient likeness to make
it certain that all were derived from the same stock. The
name Pomo in this sense is as good as any other, and is
generally accepted, while all of their baskets are called
Pomos,
The Indian words for weaves and classes of Pomo baskets
which are in use among many collectors are from the dialect
of the Yokayo, Upper Yokai, Calpella and Potter Valley
tribes (which are closely related). Among the other tribes
altogether different words are used. Thus the word basket
in Potter is **pi-ka", at Upper Lake "si-tol", at Lower
Lake *'k5-lob,"at Cache Creek '*ka-wah." Throughout
this article all Indians words are from the Potter Valley
Pomo unless otherwise stated. Doctor Hudson's writings
have made the basket collectors more or less familiar with
these words, and there could be no possible excuse for
changing. The spelling used is that recommended by the
♦Each of the tribes llvinif in Ukiah Valley now claim the name Yokai.
LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Smithsoniaii Institute. The arts, customs and lecrends of
the Pomos are peculiarly-interesting, and a most readable
volume could be written with them as a subject. In the
space at my command I can only give a suggestion of the
wealth of material.
Kach little tribe was an independent nation as to govern-
ment, and few alliances were formed with their neighbors.
The fact that distinct dialects were maintained at opposite
ends of the small valley is sufBcient proof that there was
little intermarriage.
Until long after the white man came, their winter homes
were domes of wickerwork, thatched heavily with grass or
tules, and the older people still build such homes. The
beautiful photograph found on page 433 is of such a bouse
POMO INDIAN BASKETS, 447
still standing in good preservation in the center of Big
Valley, Lake county, and was taken this spring. It so per-
fectly shows the manner of construction as to make des-
cription unnecessary. In such a house three generations
of a family lived and stored their food. The center was
occupied by open fires, the smoke finding vent through a
hole in the roof. Great storage baskets filled with acorns
were stacked on the sides, fish hung on strings on the
walls, and the whole family life went on within. The
summer house was also of wicker work covered with
boughs, and the tribe often moved several times a year, as
acorns, fish or game, or dry quarters were the desiderata.
Their women carried great loads in the conical baskets,
suspended in. a net which had a broad band which passed
across the forehead. When the woman bent forward the
weight rested on the back and was steadied by the head.
A great variety of seeds, bulbs and roots were used for
food. The soap root, '*Chlorogalum," was used for laun-
dry purposes, and also was beaten into a pulp and placed in
streams and pools to stupefy the fish. The great food
staple of the Porao tribes was the acorn ; this, the great
number of oaks of various sorts, which are such a scenic
feature in the region they inhabit, furnished in abundance.
Each winter village contained the sweat-house, an institu-
tion inseparable from their social and religious life. It
was a circular excavation roofed with timbers to form a
cone and covered with soil. The largest were thirty or
forty feet across. In it their dances and other assemblages
were held. The building portrayed on page 445 is a modern-
ized adaptation of the plan. Few of the old-style sweat-
houses are now to be found.
Their dances were of a medical or religious character,
and the costumes and chants varied according to the occa-
sion. I well remember a great dance which occurred in
1873. At the rancheria five miles south of Ukiah an im-
mense sweat house was built, and the Indians gathered
there from far and near. For weeks dances took place day
and night ; the big building was crowded with savage
faces ; the dancers, in the middle, naked except for a
feathered skirt about the waist and hideously painted, the
barbaric musical accompaniment and the chants, now low
and then rising to cries which could be heard for miles,
made a scene to impress itself indelibly on the mind of the
white onlooker. Dances still take place occasionally, and
the costumes in the accompanying photographs are essen-
tially the ancient ones, plus some extra clothing.
When a death occurred, the body, together with the
POMO INDIAN BASKETS, ^9
most precious effects of the deceased and presents from
friends, was burned. The house in which a death occurred
was also burned. Cremation continued to be practiced
until the late 'Seventies, and then gradually gave way to
burial. They still burn or bury valuable articles with the
deceased. The house is not now burned, but is almost al-
ways torn down and moved. This custom accounts for the
very poor dwellings among the Indians, as compared with
their quite valuable belongings of other sorts. The entire
tribe joined in the cremation of the deceased, and the wild
wails could be heard for miles. The near relatives mourned
for a long period, using what sounds like a set formula of
wails and cries repeated again and again.
They were inveterate gamblers. Their favorite game of
chance was the grass game, and on it they risked every
worldly possession. From Bodega Bay they secured clam
shells from which they chipped white bits. These were
first drilled, and then, by a laborious process, reduced to
circular disks of different sizes. This was Indian money,
or '*kiah," and was strung according to size. It was and
still is common currency among not only the Pomo tribes
but their Indian neighbors. Many thousands of pieces are
coined yearly, and the Indian money-maker is a familiar
sight in every rancheria. Their currency was, if I may
use the word, bimetallic. Nodules of magnesite were
mined at a point on Cache creek, about five miles from
Clear Lake. When subjected to a slow baking process
colors something like agate were developed. It was then
shaped into cylinders one to' three inches long, and strung
as ''kiah " was.
Unless the student is thoroughly conversant with an In-
dian language, it is very di£&cult to learn their myths and
legends in a way that is reliable. We have a sufl&cient
glimpse at those of the Pomos to know that they were
very interesting, as were their religious beliefs.
Physically the Pomos were rather fine specimens.
Especially was this true about Clear Lake. Many of the
men were six feet high, of powerful build, and weighing
one hundred and eighty to two hundred and twenty pounds.
The women were short and very broad. Probably the
heavy loads they carried from childhood up had something
to do with this. »., Jj
Interesting as the customs of the Pomos are, they would
hardly have been heard of away from the regionlthey in-
habit were it not that as basket makers they are wonder-
fully proficient.
Ukiah, Cal.
[to bk continued.]
The Club's Supervising' Committee, consisting- of architects Hunt
and Benton and the president, visited Pala, Sa.n Diego county, Cal.,
Nov. 20 and 21, to arrange for the immediate repair of the Old Mis-
sion Chapel, a work made possible bj the generous gift of $500 by
Mrs. Phebe A. Hearst, and now as generously facilitated by the
fine patriotism, of the people of Pala,
At Fallbrook, the railroad terminus, the committee was met by
Ami V. Golsh (a Pala ranchero who has interested himself deeply in
the nork), and driven the 15 miles to the little hamlet in its beautiful
bolson at the very base of 6,000-foot Mt. Palomar.
The old chapel W3s found in much better condition for salvage
than had been feared. The earthquake of two years ago—which was
particularly !>evere at this point — ruined the roof and cracked the
characteristic belfry, which stands apart. But thanks to repairs to
the roof made five or six years ago by the unassisted people, the
adot>e walls of the chapel are in excellent preservation. Even the
quaint old Indian decprations have suffered almost nothing. The
tile floor is in better condition than at any of the other Missions, Init
hardly a veatige of the adobe-pillared cloisters remains. Tiles are
falling into the chapel through yawning gaps, and it is really dan-
gerous to enter. It will be necessary to reroof the entire structure.
The sound tiles will be carefully stacked on the ground, the timt>ers
removed, and a solid roof-structure built, upon which the original
tiles will be replaced. The original construction will be followed;
and round pine logs will be procured from Mt. Palomar to replace
*^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
those no louger dependable.
The cloisters will be re-
built precisely as they vrerr,
and invisible iron ttands
will be used to atreng^then
the campanile against pos-
sible later earthquakes.
Id the evening, after the
committee had made its
measures and specification
s for the necessary repaira,
there was a littl* gather-
ing in the little store. The
immediate valley contains
about a dozen "American "
families, and about aft
many more Mexicans and
Indians, and about 15 heads
^ of these families were pres-
£ ent. After a brief state-
"^ ment of the situation, the
i Palenoa were asked if they
"^ would help. "I will give
= 10 days' work," said John
A. Giddens, the first to
respond. " Another ten,"
said Luis Carillo. And so
it went. There was not a
man present who did not
promise assistance. The
following additional sub-
scriptions were taken in
ten minutes: Ami V.
Golsh, 25 days' work ;
Luis Soberano, 15 days ;
Isidoro Garcia, 10 days ;
Teofilo Peters and Lrmia
Salmons, 5 days each with
team (equivalent to 10 days
for a man); Dolores Sal-
azar, Eustaquio Lugo,
Tomis Salazar, Ignacio
Valenzueta, 6 days each ;
Geo. Steiger and Fruncisco Ardillo, 5 days each. These sutwcrip-
tiona amount to at least tl.75 a day each, so the Pala contribution
in work is full J217. Besidi^s this Mr. Prank A, Salmons sub-
scribed $10; at)d other contributions are expected. It is also fitting
that the Club acknou ledt;e gratefully the courtesies which gave two
THE PAINTED DESERT,
453
days of Mr. Golsh's time to bringing the committee frdm and back
to Fallbrook, and the charming entertainment provided by Mr. and
Mrs. Salmons. The entire trip was heart-warming ; and the liberal
spirit of this little settlement of American ranchers and Indians
and Mexicans surpasses all records in the Club's history. For that
matter, while Mr. Carnegie is better known, he has never yet
done anything so large in proportion.
At a meeting of the directors of the Club, Nov. 25, J. G. Mossin of
the California Bank was elected director and treasurer in place of the
late Frank A. Gibson ; and Rev. M. 8. I/i^bana of the Plaza Church
was elected director in place of Rev. J. Adams, now in Spain.
CONTRIBUTIONS TO THB I^ANDMARK WORK.
Previously acknowledged, $4,373.
New contributions — in labor, A. V. Golsh, $44; Luis Soberano, $27;
John A. Giddens, $17.50 ; I^uis Carillo, $17.50 ; Isidoro Garcia, $17.50 ;
Louis Salmons, $17.50; Teofilo Peters, $17.50; Dolores Salazar,
$10.50; Kustaquio Lugo, $10.50; Tomis Salazar, $10.50; Ignacio
Valenzuela, $10.50 ; Frank A. Salmons, $10 ; Francisco Ardillo, $9 ;
Geo. Steiger, $9; all of Pala. Cash, Hon. Thos. R. Bard, Hueneme,
Cal., $2. $1 each— Mr. Collier, Riverside, Cal.; Albert McFarland,
Mrs. Albert McFarland, Mrs. J. Torrey Connor, Los Angeles.
The Painted Desert.
mr HAmmiMOM cpnhard.
HE sun-iTod loves thee though the rain-gfod
hates,
And with, stranfi^e witchery on thy
sands he plays ;
Wide ope he swing's his vast cerulean
gates,
And with mysterious colors in his rays,
Pours down his ardent floods that, tide on
tide.
In shoreless billows surging* infinite,
Fall on thy bubbling caldron, vision-wide,
In quivering waves of myriad-tinted light.
The sun-god loves thee, for with luminous breath.
Expanding wide from his ethereal car,
Thrilling with life thy sullen dunes of death
And with soft touch soothing thy hideous scar.
He, god-like, with strange potency, has traced
A heaven of beauty on thy hell of waste.
Flmff8ta£f, Arts.
One Christmas.
you won't come in, too, not even on
Christmas morning: ? " A woman stood in
the doorway of old San Gabriel Mission
and gleamed under her lashes.
Hec glance thrilled Gillingham. "No
— no, thank you," he answered with some
hesitation. " I have something to think
over. But perhaps this afternoon, after
you get back to the hotel."
She lowered her lashes indolently. "Perhaps — it is
among the chances of life. Goodbye — they're all starin^f
at us."
"Gk>odbye." Gillingham lifted his hat and found him-
self standing alone in the sunshine by the door. A few-
last Indian stragglers filed past him into the church as the
organ lifted its Christmas evangel. The tallyho on which
he had come, a half-dozen hacks, and a number of nonde-
script Mexican vehicles stood huddled under the shadows
of the pepper-trees. In the doorway of an opposite house,
two Chinamen sat smoking. Bxcept for the drowsing^
hackmen and the dreaming smokers, the sunshine had the
old adobe village to itself. Gillingham looked about him
curiously. "A strange place," he thought to himself,
"for her to come to die." Then, as his gaze drew to the
luminous blue sky and the velvet-purple Mother Mountains,
— " But not so bad, either," he added.
As he sauntered down the street, he found himself won-
dering why he could never forget her— and she ten years
dead. Well, he had been true to her, on matiy seas, in in-
numerable ports ; and even now he wondered whether he
really meant to marry that other woman kneeling back
there in the church — he supposed she was kneeling — Kosa-
mond Irish always adapted herself to all sorts and condi-
tions of circumstance. He wondered whether she guessed
what he intended to ask her that afternoon. It might be,
for such questions had certainly come her way before. She
ought to know the tones and glances that preceded them,
he reflected a trifle cynically.
Now, she was not like that — but she was dead. When
he came to think of it, there was nothing to think over.
There was only Rosamond. No Greta — never again. Yet
why this morning did those ten years persist in
dwindling to a day ? Why did her image rise before his
vision, so near, so hauntingly alive ? Well, to be candid,
he supposed, because the chances of life, to use Rosamond's
ONE CHRISTMAS. 455
phrase, had broug^ht him to the country where she came to
die ; and ag^ain, because he meant to marry at last, and
new events always bring back old ones that resemble them.
The image would grow indistinct once more after he re-
turned to New York. He hoped that he could induce
Rosamond to be married in February, so that they could be
in Paris by March. Rosamond was never tired of saying
that she wanted to live in Paris, and, so far as he was con-
cerned, she could have her wish. She knew that, too — per-
haps that was one reason why she smiled on him under her
lashes. Well, he would give her Paris, and she would give
him that trick of the eyelids. Besides, his life was spent ;
he might as well live in Paris as anywhere else. Now
Greta — no, he could never imagine Greta there. Perhaps
here, under this cloudless sky — ah, if Greta could come
back, his life would not be spent !
He was out beyond the village by this time, in the midst
of the ranch country. Orange trees hung heavy with
fruit ; some of them were in blossom, too. He turned from
the highway into a ranch road that wound about among
the orange groves, on through an old walnut orchard, and
up a hill. Pine trees bordered the road as it climbed the
hill, and it gradually became apparent to Gillingham that
he was intruding on the private driveway leading to a house,
but he was coming out from his introspective mood and
wanted the view from the top, so he kept on.
Halfway up the hill he stood still and smiled. Just off
the road, on a narrow terrace beside an irrigation brook,
grew a little orange tree in flower and fruit, and not only
in flowers and fruit, but decked out in gilt and tinsel, too —
glittering stars and tinkling bells, chains and crackers and
candles. And as he looked, down a by-path came a radiant
figure, slipping a little on the pine-needles, her eyes shin-
ing, her arms full of toys.
Gillingham was not given to hallucinations, but he was
under one now. Even so, had he once seen her coming
down the stairs at home, one Christmas-day twelve years
ago. She was not changed by time, only younger, rounder,
fairer. He stood rooted to the spot.
As she slipped from the path to the terrace, she saw
him, also. Tox>s and trumpets and drums and little tin
soldiers fell scattered at her feet. The two stood staring
at each other, as ghosts in the hereafter might stare.
** Jack I" the one ghost whispered.
" Greta!" faltered the other.
** But you are drowned I" she gasped.
** But you are buried ten years ago! When did I die,
too, and go to heaven ?"
456 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
' She recovered herself first. I am not dead. Jack — if
jou are Jack. It is all a mistake — somehow. What does
it mean ? I have the paper that says joa were drowned
amoflff the officers of the JSIbe — it has fiprown quite yellow."
He stared at her. '* I was not on the EHe. I had just
been transferred to the Amsterdam. The papers must
have copied the old list. I heard there was snch a paper,
too — ^I remember" — ^he passed his hand across his eyes —
" but yon—"
" But I ?" She stared bewilderingly in return.
** You are not dead ? — not dead I" he re-echoed the words
like a paean, and drew a step nearer.
She stood still with her hands clasped before her. " Who
told you I was dead ?"
He paused. *' Why, nobody," he returned slowly. " No-
body, after all. They told me when I landed from that six
months' cruise that you had been taken out to California to
die — that you could not live to reach here — and then — yet,
somebody did tell me that you died in San GabrieL It wais
Harkness, in Sing^apore."
Her lips quivered. ^' You never heard that I £ot well ?
You never wrote yourself to find anything* out ?"
** Would your people have answered the letter ?"
'^ There are no people now, Jack," she began eagerly,
then stopped short and stood gazing at him with a little
doubtful flush. * * No people at all, only — "
Only?"
Only the children" — and she pointed to the Christmas
tree.
'•What children?"
** I — I was married, Jack. You were dead, and I — ah, I
have been forgetting that I am an old woman after aU 1
'But you will like my children."
"'And your husband, too?" Gillingham's voice rang
harsh, as a man's might ring who saw ' all hofe abandon "
suddenly flame above the closing gates of paradise.
She shook her head and smiled, still with that little
doubtful look. **I have been a widow for three years. I
took off my last mourning today for the children's sake."
Then the gates of paradise swung wide again, and Gil-
lingham walked inside. Far and radiant as the landscape
before him stretched the prospect of the years. He drew
close and took her hands in his. ^^ And for my sake, too,"
he said.
Pautdena, Cal.
4S7
A New Indian Policy.
@r^
HE movement to aid the Mission Indians has
^^V taken shape. At a meeting: in Los Ange-
les, Nov. 22, of SO representative people —
with the Episcopal and the Catholic bishops of
this diocese pulling: side by side — it was unani-
mously voted to form a permanent league, incor-
porate under the laws of California, and begin
and keep up a systematic work to protect and aid
the Indians, particularly those of Southern Cali-
fornia. The meeting also unanimously adopted
the following memorandum and memorial ; and
they have been taken to Washington by Senator Thomas
A. Bard, who is deeply and intelligently interested in
the movement.
To the Hon, Commissioner of Indian Affairs^ Washington^ D. C:
Str — In view of the fact that some 300 Mifision Indiana are abont
to be evicted under process of law from the homes their ancestors
have occupied for centuries — ^the date for all dispossession being set
for next month — ^December, 1901 — ^and have absolutely nowhere to go
when evicted ; and of the further fact that the entire status of Indian
tenures in Southern California is not and never has been satisfactory
(though for twenty-five years the Government has made spasmodic,
and partial, but too often misdirected, efforts to remedy the worst
abuses) we beg your serious attention to our suggestion that a Com-
mission of not less than three persons — of whom at least one should
be a reputable citizen of Southern California and reasonably familiar
with the specific facts — should be appointed promptly not only to deal
with this case of imminent importance but also to devise a logical
and permanent adjustment of the whole question.
Your memorialists speak in behalf of a permanent organisation
now preparing to incorporate under the laws of California for the ex-
press purpose of securing for the Mission Indians a treatment more
just and more rational than they have ever yet recei^d, as from, the
Government and from individuals.
The more urgent needs of the case are briefly set forth in the
appended memorial ; but we cannot too strongly remind you that the
entire subject is one that needs inteUigent attention and at once.
Respectfully,
(Signed):
JosBPH H. Johnson [Bishop of I^s Angeles, Episcopal]
Gborgs Montgombry [Bishop of Los Angeles and Monterey,
CathoUc]
Hbnry B. Rbstarick [Clergyman, Episcopal]
Horatio M. Rust [former agent of the Mission Indians]
Chas. Cassatt Davis [Attorney]
Mrs. I. V. H. CowLBS
Chas. F. Lummis, Chairman.
To the Hon. Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Washington, D.C.:
Sir — We, the undersigned citizens of Southern California, desire
to bring to your attention certain facta as to the lands of a number
of the Reservations of the Consolidated Tule Mission Agency. The
conditions — and our statement of them we are prepared to verify —
^^ LAND OF SUNSHiN£.
are mich that in onr beat judgment a Commiasion (of at least three
persona) should be appointed at once to make inquiry into the matter
and to report upon the entire subject. We would respectfully refer
you to the Report of the Commissioner of Indian Affairs for 189S,
and that for 1896, p. 130. In the latter the Agent states that tlie
lands in the Reservations of IrSguna, Campo, Iia Posta, Maja and
Manzanita are *' mislocated and of such a character that the Indians
do not, never did, and never will be able to live on them" — for want
of water, etc.
It is further stated on the same page that the lands on which the
said Indians are now living are liable to be filed on by white men,
and already in some instances have been so taken up. Since that
report was written, five years ago, the case has been much aggra>
vated, and many squatters have ousted individual Indians from their
land.
That the importance of this matter was recognized by your office
is shown by the fact that on Dec. 1, 1897, it was recommended to tl&e
Department that Congress enact legislation authorizing the inclusion
of additional tracts of land in the Campo, Maja, Manzanita, Cuya-
pipe. Twenty-nine Palms, and Torres Reservations. This recom-
mendation was transmitted to Congress by the Department on Jan.
16, 1898 (see Senate E<z. Doc. No. 54, Fifty-fifth Congress, 2nd
session).
Though the conditions to which we refer were thus recognized by
the DejMirtment, no legislation whatever to this end has as yet been
enacted.
As to the inclusion of tracts additional to the above-mentioned
Reservation, we feel competent to assert — from the personal investi-
gations of our trusted representatives — that there is no government
land near them upon which these Indians could possibly live.
The generic status of the Indian lands and land-tenures in South-
em California is far from creditable to the nation or such as kno^r
the facts ; and the whole matter seriously needs intelligent revision ;
but the following cases are literally in imminent need of attention.
The case of the Indians of Agua Caliente Reservation No. 2, ordi-
narily called " Warner's Ranch," is already known to your office by
the presentation that has been made of it. Here are 150 Indians
subject to eviction in the coming month of December, 1901, their
tenure depending solely upon the courtesy to Govemment of the suc-
cessful claimants under a California revolutionary land grant. When
evicted, these 150 men, women and children have nowhere to go. No
Government lands are left in Southern California upon which either
Indians or whites could make a living. You are also aware, by the
same notification, that other Indians near those of Warner's Ranch
are also in fact homeless. There are the 75 Indians at San Felipe,
besides the Indians at Mataguay, San Jos^, and Puerto de la Cruz,
all of whom are liable to eviction at any moment. Unless adequate
action shall be taken by Congress immediately upon its assembling,
the Commission would need to seek and report upon a possible
home for these helpless wards of the Government.
We suggest that such a Commission should consider the possibility
and advisability of removing the Indians of I#a Posta, Manzanita
and Campo — and perhaps of Cuyapipe — ^to the Yuma Reservation in
San Diego county, Csd. The Indians on the Reservations named
fxequently cross the desert to visit the Yumas, and the Yumas visit
them. If removed to Yuma, where there is good land, these scattered
Indians would have some chance to progress. Whether there is un-
used land for them on the Yuma Reservation could easily be ascer-
tained.
A NEW INDIAN POLICY, 469
On the Santa Yaabel No. 3 there are 7,500 acres or more. Of this,
nearly all is upon the barren side of the Volcan Mountain. The only
land which the Indians cultivate — or anyone can cultivate — is of
small patches in ravines. Some of these patches are but a few
square yaMs in area. The rest is mountainous, rocky, has some
tx^es upon it, and is suitable only for cattle. The Indians have no
cattle, practically — nor could keep them if they had. There are some
patches of open land near the top of the mountain, fit for the ^ow-
ing* of strain in favorable years ; but the Indians are averse to living'
up there because of the heavy winter snows — something to which no
inhabitant of Southern California, white or Indian, is inured. They
state, also, that the places with water are already taken up ; and we
believe this to be true without any exception germane to this prob-
lem. Why this worthless mountain land was ever reserved for the
Indians, we confess our inability to understand — unless it was done
"from the map" and in utter ignorance of the real topography of
the country, or because it was *' all that was left."
In any event, it is unfit for human occupancy, and inadequate to
support human life— even Indian life.
It might seem, to one unfamiliar with the case, that this is a lib-
eral provision of land for the 78 people who are left. But those fami-
liar with the facts know the land (with the exception of a few incon-
siderable parcels) to be of no use whatever to them. There are, in
the Southwestern deserts, many regions where 1,000 acres would not
support one human being*. Such a Commission should, in our judg-
ment, consider the possibility of selling off nearly all this 7,500
and with the proceeds purchasing- for the Indians a few hundred —
even 200~acres of cultivable land.
The lands upon which some of these Santa Tsabel Indians have
homes are claimed by the owners of the Santa Ysabel Rancho ; and
the Indians are threatened with speedy eviction. Conditions in many
respects similar exist at Mesa Grande. There are on this Reserva-
tion (officially known as Santa Ysabel No. 1) about 2,500 acres of
land. By careful estimate, only 150 acres of this land is fit to raise
crops, and it has to support 206 people. The rest of the tract is rea-
sonably good stock-land, mountainous, with scattered timber. The
Indians have just seven head of cattle, l^vidently, seven cows are
scant leverage for the usufruct of 2,350 acres out of the 2,500 acres of the
whole Reservation. Not less evident, to those who know the circum-
stances, is the futility of asking the Indians to raise more stock
where their increase is appropriated by outsiders. In all probability,
this 2,500 acres could be sold to "American" cattlemen, and the pro-
ceeds used to purchate some few hundred acres of tillable lands now
owned by whites who 25 or 30 years ago deliberately drove the Indians
from their ancient homes and filed (under the law) upon these lands
before this Reservation was made. We must admit that the Indians are
culpable for not having filed before the whites upon their own imme-
morial lands, as they were privileged to do , but possibly their igno-
rance of a law newly risen over them may pardon their neglect.
Under the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo they were fully protected ;
and they and their friends presumed, until the evictions at San Pas-
qual, that occupancy gave a title which would be recognized by the
United States. A few hundred acres of the lands they once lived
upon and were presumed to own at Mesa Grande, could, we believe, be
purchased readily and enough lands obtained for allotment.
Besides the two Reservations last named, there is Santa Ysabel
No. 2. Here are reserved over 2,000 acres of land — most of which
is fit only for cattle — for a people who have not (and for sufficient rea-
sons cannot have) cattle.
The Reservation of Bl Capitan Grande consists of over 17,000 acres*
460 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Upon a small portion of this, in the Tallej of the San Diego liTcr,
and at Cone joa, live 132 Indians. It would be within the fonctions of
the proposed Commission to inyestigate this case.
Another matter for its consideration would be the San Pasqual
Reservation. Upon this land — comprising- some 1,600 acres — ^the San
Pasqual Indians have ever lived. Some of the land included in thia
Reservation was patented years ago. The few San Pasqual Indiana
who survive liver miles awaj, upon a barren hillside.
In view of these typical facts, and of the further fact that for
fully 25 years the Government has officially recognized that th»
status of Indian land-tenures in Southern California has been, and
continues, unsatisfactory, we respectfully petition for the appoint-
ment of such a Commission. Furthermore, and for reasons which
we believe to be self-evident, we ask that if such Commission be ap-
pointed, at least one of its members (if it consists of three in all, or
two if the whole number be five) shall be a citizen of Southern Cali-
fornia, of standing in this community, and of some familiarity, at
least, with the nature and needs of our Indians, and with the nature
and values of lands in this region. These things differ in mmnx
essential details, from their counterparts in the East, and cannot be
intelligently dealt with except in the light of personal familiarity
with the specific facts.
The Mission Indians who live on secure and adequate lands have
made and are making substantial progress. The Indians on the
verge of the Desert, isolated and practically landless, cannot reason-
ably be expected to rise in the scale of civilization. Net only are
they far removed from civilizing influences, but the feeling of inse-
curity even in the poor homes they possess is — as we recognize for a
general rule— enough to prevent any serious progress. If a- man is
to be civilized, he must at least be assured of land to live upon, and
of stability in his title to it.
So serious and so protracted has been the mismanagement of the
Mission Indians of Southern California that a permanent association
of citizens is now arranging to incorporate under the laws of this
State for the sole purpose of remedying — and keeping remedied — as
many as possible of these abuses. This present document is the
first official act of that organization, was unanimously adopted at a
preliminary meeting Nov. 22, 1901, and is the line the association is
prepared to pursue permanently. We earnestly hope for your aid in
the adjustment of these matters. As to the necessity of action —
and competent action — ^we believe there can be no two opinions among
those who inform themselves as to the facts. We will gladly, both
personally and as an organization, render you any assistance in our
power toward a just and adequate solution of problems which for
more than a generation have been neglected, evaded or muddled in a
manner discreditable alike to our humanity and our common sense.
Respectfully,
(Signed) Joseph H. Johnson, George Montgomery, Henry B^
Restarick, Chas. Frederick Holder, Chas. Cassatt Davis, M. S.
Itfi^bana, Caroline M. Severance (President emeritus The Fridar
Morning Club), Rev. Wm. Horace Day, Grace C. Wotkyns, Mrs. C. F.
Holder, Dr. Fordyce Grinnell, Elizabeth Grinnell, lone V. H. Cowles,
Helen C. Wotkyns, Mrs. M. R. Kater, Harriet M. Scott, S. E. Lobb,
Miss S. H. Stickney, A. C. Vroman, Sallie E. Garrett, Cornelia Gates,
Gertrude Gates, Sarah B. Earle, Elizabeth F. Kennedy, M. D.,
Margaret F. Fette, feline B. Hill, Jeannie W. Flint, C. C. Pierce,
clergyman, Abbie E. Wadleigh, Ida Marriott White, Cora Calvert
Foy, Edna Foy, Mrs. E. T. Mills, Mrs. J. Torrey Connor, M. L,.
Brown, Eva S. Fenyes, Mrs. Mary S. Frye, C. E. Listers, Chas. F.
Lrummis, chairman.
A NEW INDIAN POLICY. 461
LIGHI? IN THB HIGH PLACES.
For the first time in the history of the United States, a
X)olicy of real mercy, justice and common sense as toward
our Indians is at last officially announced. The annual re-
port of Hon. W. A. Jones, Commissioner of Indian Affairs,
is a document at which the most hardened student gasps —
as many hardened non-students will irasp for the very oppo-
site reason. The government has meant well, thousands
of philanthropic people have meant well, but they have not
known how ; and it is a pitiful truth that the Indians'
worst foes have been they who really wished to do him
good. They have wronged and injured him far more
deeply, far more intimately, far more permanently, than
the Border Ruffian has ; for the scoundrels who take a per-
sonal advantage of Indians touch them but incidentally
and at one angle ; but our philanthropic Procrustes has
stretched the whole life of the Indian upon his inevitable
bed — racking him out to fit, if he was too short; lopping
off his feet, if too long. Careless or unteachable inspec-
tors, without a trace of knowledge scientific, historical or
humane, have furnished misleading data ; earnest people
who never saw an Indian and would be afraid of one, try
to formulate plans for his betterment ; busy and indifferent
statesmen put through the measure of least resistance.
And the Indian '*pays the freight." He has been robbed
of his lands, his nationality, his individuality; and now
for more than a decade we have been robbing him of his
family. In all the history of the Three Americas there
has not been another Indian policy so cruel and so stupid as
our present educational system. For more than^ a dozen
years and in many places I have fought this well-intended
iniquity — see, for example, the seven numbers of this
magazine from August, 1899, to February, 1900, inclusive,
under title '*My Brother's Keeper." In some circles this
attack on the sacred system was regarded as extreme, ab-
surd and revolutionary. But now comes the United States
Commissioner of Indian Affairs with precisely the same
<x>nclusions, couched in more official, but as unmistakable
form. After referring to other obstacles in the way of up-
lifting our Indians, Commissioner Jones says in his report
(the italics are mine) :
" Further observation and reflection lead to the unwelcome con-
viction that another obstacle may be added to those already named,
and that is education. It is to be distinctly understood that it is not
meant by this to condemn education in the abstract — far from it ;
its advantag^es are too many and too apparent to need any demonstra-
tion here What is meant is that the present Indian
educational system, taken as a whole, is not calculated to produce the
462 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
results so earnestly claimed for it and so hopefully anticipated
wtwui it was be^tin.
''No doobt tlis idea will be received with some surprise^ and ex-
pressions of dissent will donbtless spring at once to the lips of manx
of those eneag'ed or interested in Indian work. Nevertheless, a.
brief view of the plan in vogne will, it is believed, convince the
most skeptical that the idea is correct.
" There are in operation at the present time 113 boarding schoola,
with an average attendance of something over 16,000 papils, rangin^^
from 5 to 21 jears old.
" These pnpils are fathered from the cabin, the wickiap and the
tepee. Partly by cajolery and partly by threats ; partly by bribery ami
partly by fraud ; partly by persuasion and partly by force ^ they are
induced to leave their homes and their kindred, to enter these schools
and take upon themselves the outward semblance of civilized life.
They are chosen not on account of any particular merit of their own,
not by reason of mental fitness, but solely because they have 'fr\A\»r%
blood in their veins. Without regard to their worldly condition ;
without any previous training ; without any preparation whatever,
they are transported to the schools — sometimes thousands of miles
away — ^without the slightest expense or trouble to themselves or
their people.
" The Indian youth finds himself at once, as if by magic, trans-
lated from a state of poverty to one of affluence. He is well fed and.
clothed and lodged. Books and all the accessories of learning are
given him and teachers provided to instruct him. He is educated in
the industrial arts on the one hand, and not only in the rudiments,
but in the liberal arts on the other. Beyond ' the three r's' he is in-
structed in geography, grammar and history ; he is taught drawing,
algebra and geometry, music and astronomy, and receives lessons in
physiology, botany and entomology. Matrons wait on him while he
is well, and physicians and nurses attend him when he is sick. A
steam laundry does his washing and the latest modern appliances do
his cooking. A library affords him relaxation for his leisure hours,
athletic sports and the gymnasium furnish him exercise and recrea-
tion, while music entertains him in the evening. He has hot and
cold baths, and steam heat and electric light, and all the modem
conveniences. All of the necessities of life are given him and many
of the luxuries. All of this without money and without price, or the
contribution of a single effort of his own or of his people. His wants
are all supplied almost for the wish. The child of the wigwam be-
comes a modern Aladdin, who has only to rub the government lamp
to gratify his desires.
''Here he remains until his education is finished, when he is returned
to his home — ^which by contrast must seem squalid indeed — ^to the
parents whom his education must make it difficult to honor, and left
to make his way against the ignorance and bigotry of his tribe. Is
is any wonder he fails 7 Is it sur^sing if he lapses into barbarism?
Not having earned his education, it is not appreciated ; having made
no sacrifice to obtain it, it is not valued. It is looked upon as a right
and not as a privilege ; it is accepted as a favor to the government
and not to the recipient, and the almost inevitable tendency is to en-
courage dependency, foster pride and create a spirit of arrogance
and selfishness. The testimony on this point of those closely con-
nected with the Indian employes of the service would, it is believed,
be interesting.
" It is not denied that some good flows from this system. It would
be singular, if there did not, after all the effort that has been made
and the money that has been lavished. In the last twenty years
fully $45,000,000 have been spent by the government alone for the
A NEW INDIAN POLICY, ^^
education of Indian papils, and it is a liberal estimate to put the
number of those so educated at not over 20,000. If the present rate
is continued for another twenty years it will take over $70,000,000
more*
'* But while it is not denied that the system has produced some
(rood results, it is seriously questioned whether it is calculated to ac-
complish the great end in view, which is not so much the education
of the individual as the lifting- up of the race.
" It is contended, and with reason, that with the same effort and
much less expenditure applied locally or to the family circle, far
greater and much more beneficent results could have been obtained,
and the tribes would have been in a much more advanced stage of
civilization than at present."
" On the other hand, it is said that the stream of returning pupils
carries with it the refining influence of the schools and operates to
elevate the people. Doubtless this is true of individual cases, and it
may have some faint influence on the tribes. But will it ever suffi-
ciently leaven the entire mass ? It is doubtful. It may be possible
in time to purify a fountain by cleansing its turbid waters as they
pour forth and then returning them to their original source. But ex-
perience is against it. For centuries, pure fresh-water streams have
poured their floods into the Great Salt L/ake, and its waters are salt
stiU.
" What, then, shall be done ? And this inquiry brings into promin-
ence at once the whole Indian question.
" It may be well first to take a glance at what has been done. For
about a generation the government has been taking a very active
interest m the welfare of the Indian. In that time he has been
located on reservations and fed and clothed ; he has been supplied
lavishly with utensils and means to earn his living, with materials
for his dwelling and articles to furnish it ; his children have been
educated and money has been paid him; farmers and mechanics
have been supplied him, and he has received aid in a multitude of
different ways. In the last thirty-three years over $250,000,000 have
been spent upon an Indian population not exceeding 180,000, enough,
if equitably divided, to build each one a house suitable to his condi-
tion and furnish it throughout ; to fence his land and build him a
bam ; to buy him a wagon and team and harness ; to furnish him
plows and the other implements necessary to cultivate the ground,
and to g^ve him something besides to embellish and beautify his
home. It is not pretended that this amount is exact, but it is suffi-
ciently so for the purpose of this discussion.
" What is his condition today? He is still on his reservation ; he
is still being fed ; his children are still being educated and money is
still being paid him ; he is still dependent upon the government for
existence ; merchants wait on him and farmers still aid him ; he is
little, if any, nearer the goal of independence than he was thirty
years ago, and if the present policy is continued he will get little, if
any, nearer in thirty years to come. It is not denied that under this,
as under the school system, there has been some progress, but it has
not been commensurate with the money spent and effort made."
WHAT THIS MKANS.
This means, in log^ic — and, let us fervently trust in fact
— the death-knell of the great '* print-factory" firoyernment
schools, remote from the Indian home, and looking^ upon
the Indian parents merely as breeders of pupils of whom
they are to be robbed to make grist for the salary-mill. It
464 LAND OF SUNSHtNE.
means looking toward the only sane, decent, humane and
scholarly solution of the problems of Indian education —
schools at home, where Indian boy and girl can love their
parents and help them up the hill of civilization ; sensible
schools, which shall teach things it does some good to
know, and not the Carlisle curriculum which would be
idiotic were they not so tragic in their results. It means
schools designed a little more for the good of the Indians,
and a little less exclusively for the ease and salaries of their
teachers. It means, in fact, the beginning of a rational
and just policy — which we have never before had. And
for so much we may not only pray, but reckon it time to
go to work.
For over two years I have had the indefinable feeling"
that the times were ripening. I felt it even when the
National Convention of Indian teachers met in Los An-
geles under the weighty thumb of Major Pratt, and out-
raged every scholar who cares for and knows about these
things. And that feeling has been growing — but I did
not expect to see so soon an Indian Commissioner so close to
the full daylight.
The times are truly ripe for us to be done with this long-
disgrace. We have a President who knows and cares ; we
have an Indian Commissioner who is not wax in the hands
of that magnificent and misguided personality which has
been in fact for a decade or more our Indian Policy — that
tremendous energy without learning, that fine character
without a sentiment, that machine for making machines.
Major Pratt of the Carlisle Government Indian School. No
man has worked harder for the Indians ; and no fifty men
in America have ever done them so much harm. He will
be up in arms at this report. He will use all his really
astonishing power to nullify it. But now our time has
come ; and against him will be every man and woman who
cares — for our own sake, if not for the Indian's — that we do
justice ; and who believes that any system is accurst whose
corner-stone is the breaking-up of the family.
The Indian Right's Association in the East is doing
noble — if occasionally a bit Eastern — work ; the new
League now forming in California (and it will be com-
posed of several thousand prominent people), will labor no
less earnestly, and, if possible, on somewhat broader and
more expert lines. And the time has come when we shall
win if we '*lean on." C. P. L.
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. *6S
SEGVNDA
RELACIOM.
DE LA GRANDIOSA CON-
VERSION QVE HA AVIDO ENEL NVEVO MEXICa
Enbitdj por cl Padre Fray Eftcvide PcrcaiCaftudid de |ai Piovinciu
del NiiCTo Me>ico,al tntry Reverendo C.f i. Fraacil'to ie Apodzc«,
ComilTarJo Geaeral dc toda UNucva F fpara , dc la Ordcn de
S.F>i(Trco,dandolectieoudelella(lodea(]uella)conveE'
tioQMi J en paiticuUr de lo fiKcdulo en el defpacho
(|nc Ic hico pin aquellu paites
Ano itfjj.
IL PadicFra]rFnacilcodePomii,varonapro>
vado en vittud yfanudadi'Maegro deNovi*
CKM ^tte fuc fe/aaiiMen Saa Funcifco de Me<
f iico,qutncadopcactta[lacienaadcbnic.ref<
3 uuni an.% altnai, y delcubrir mucha gcoie.
k DrrpidwdoCcdeliibueaDiigoelfadicFr.R^
iciae.faliode Zibolacondoa Rdjgiolot.Fray
Andru Cudemi Saccrdote^y Fr.Ctiifloval da
UCoqcepcionReUgoro Lf^o^ApofloJicamc*
te.coR fiu Cnizei al caello , y baidonet cti b)
manat,a <|Micnei«c6paDava dow lbldadoi,mai por piedad de no desat
tan raouimprciraqucparadcfca(ayguarda,(]iKcraainyItffliudaua.
ja tiui gcntc(,ti didhai en Ui irmas, como porfiadat en lot cobatci.
CamiMDilo porftiifOTnadis.llcgatoii a la PtoTincia dc Mo(]iii,diadel
gloiioTtf fan Bernarde(qiieei el apellido que aoracicneaqucl pueblo,)
dli apanado de la t ilia de (oi Efpanolci ocbcnCa IcBuat.ticrM mat tern
plada.y patecida alade Efpana en lo* riuioi jr remiUu q^qbi Te dan.
Cojcfc
466 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
Early Western History.
From Documents Never Before Published in English,
PSREA'S SECOND "REPORT" ON NEW MEXICO IN 1633-3.
|A|#HB following intallment conclades the important " Relacfon"
KS^I * of Fray E^st^an de Perea, Custodian of the Missions of New
X Mexico in 1632-^, succeeding' the inimitable Fray Alonao
de Benavides. It will be observed that though the printed
document bears date of 1633, toward the last it says the baptism at
^ufii was on St. Augustin's day, " of this year of 1629 " — deste ano
de 1629.
SECOND
R E P O R
or THE MAGNIFICENT CON-
VERSION WHICH HAS BEEN HAD IN NEW MEXICO.
Sent by the Father Fray Estevan de Perea, Custodian of the Provinces
of New Mexico, to the very Reverend Father Fray Francisco de Apodaca*
Commissary-General of all New Spain; of the Order of
St. Francis ; giving him an account of the state of those conver-
sions, and, in particular, of what has happened in the Expedition
which was made to those regions.
T WiUM permission of the SsMor Vicar- Gentral^ and of the SeMor Alcalde Don Ahmso de BolaMas.
Printed in Seville^ by Luvs EstufiHan^ in the Street of the Palms. Tear of rbs3.
The Father Fray Francisco de Porras, a holy man approved m virtue
and sanctity, Master of Novices that was for six years in [the mon-
astery of] St. Francis in Mexico, wishing to penetrate the country
beyond, relieve more souls and discover much people; taking leave of
his e^ood friend the Father Fray Roque, set forth from Cibola with
two religious — Fray Andres Gutierrez, Priest, and Fray Chistoval
[misprint for Crist6val] de la Concepcion, I^ay Religious — Apostoli-
cally, with their crucifixes at the neck and staffs in their hands.
Twelve soldiers accompanied them — more for piety, not to leave so
saintly an enterprise, than as a defense and guard, which was very
limited as against so many peoples, as dextrous at arms as stubborn
in combat. Traveling by their day's journeys, they arrived at the
Province of Moqui [on the] day of the glorious St. Bernard (which ia
the title that pueblo now has). It is eighty leagues removed from
the Town of the Spaniards ; a more temperate country and like to
that of Spain in the fruits and grains which yield here. Much cot-
ton is harvested ; the houses are of three stories, well planned ;
their inhabitants great laborers and solicitous in their work. Among-
them the vice of intoxication is a great reproach. To divert them-
EARLY WESTERN HISTORY. ^7
■
aelyea they have their appointed games, and a race where they run
with gfreat lightness. Here they received the Fathers with some
Inkewarmnessy because the demon was trying by all ways to impede
and hinder the promulgation of the Divine law, as he attempted at
this season. And although in their oracles he speaks to those minis-
ters of his, and they see him in his formidable aspect, now he took
for instrument an Apostate Indian from the Christian pueblos; who,
going on ahead, said to them of Moqui that some Spaniards, whom
they would see directly, were coming to bum their pueblos, rob their
belongings and behead their children ; and that the others with
crowns and robes were so many liars, and that they must not consent
that they should put water on their heads, because at once they
would be sure to die.
These news so disturbed [alteraron] theMoquinos that they secretly
summoned in their favor the neighboring Apaches, with whom at
that time they had truce. This uneasiness our people felt upon en-
tering the place ; wherewith they roused their watchfulness so
greatly that they did not sleep in all the night, guarding against
the sudden assault. The second night, the soldier who was on sen-
try perceived the murmur of people. He called his companions, who
briefly made themselves ready, with their horses caparisoned, by the
time the opposing Captains arrived to catch them unprepared. And
seeing them on their guard, they [the Indians] asked them " how [it
was] they were not sleeping." And the Spaniards, knowing their
treachery and malice, responded "that the soldiers of Spain did not
sleep, for that they were prepared to defend themselves and injure
their enemies." Next night they did the same ; and being unable to
endure the waylayings of the Indians, they menaced them, saying
that if they attempted to damage such noble guests as they had, the
Governor would come with his power upon them, to lay waste and
bum their pueblos and lands. Seeing their bad intention understood,,
[the Indians] went away confounded. In this time the Religious,
soldiers of the Evangel, with the harness of prayer armed them-
selves to subject and conquer the tricks of Lucifer ; and animated
by that valorous impulse which heaven communicates to its Evan-
gelizing messengers, setting little value on the cavilings in opposi-
tion, they sallied through the streets preaching. At the resonant
echoes of which, men and women came quickly, compelled by a secret
admonition. And not alone those of the pueblo, but from the sur-
rounding valleys and neighboring mountains. And when these holy
men saw that the Indians were already arriving without fear, they
gave them some toys which they had brought — such as hawks' bells,
beads, hatchets and knives — that they might be assured that [the
Fathers] came more to give unto them than to ask from them. But
the Indians excused themselves, for they had accepted that bad prog-
nostication of the Indian who told them that upon receiving any-
thing they would be sure to die. But they came forth from all thei^
doubts and were converted to our holy Faith, by a great miracle
^^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
which onr Lord wrought in that pueblo through the medinin of his
aenrants. Of the which, for now, report is not made, since it has
not come authenticated.
Returning to the Father Fra j Roque de Figueredo, in Zuni where he
was, the General Adversary made the same tradition*; saying to the
Indians, with menaces, that they should eject this strange Priest
from their country. They put it into operation, all manifesting them-
selves in such manner that already they did not assist, as they vrere
wont, to bring water and wood, nor did one [of them] appear. By
night is heard great din of dances, drums and caracoles, which
among them is signal of war. And holding it [war] for certain, al-
though he was already prepared for every adversity, he [i. e.. Fray
Roque] was then in the surrounding peril with the most lively con-
cern. But God succors his own in their greatest necessity. And so,
as he [Fray Roque] was, one night of these, beseeching God with
fervent petitions that He would communicate His eternal light to the
abyss of that darkened people — at the midnight he saw enter his re-
treat two Indians of tall and gallant stature, to appearance Captains,
with plumes of feathers and with weapons prepared, ready for war.
Well did the famous Soldier of the Church understand that that
crisis was the last of his life ; and going upon his knees he offered it
[his life] to God, with more desire to suffer triumphantly than fears
of the fatal blow at the barbarous hand of the Indians. The which,
gathering from the demonstrations of the Religious that he awaited
death from them, reassured him by signs — giving him peace with
their arms crossed. Fray Roque gave them his [arms], with benign
and loving face. He called the interpreter, who was asleep ; and
through him manifested to them that his coming from such remote
regions to theirs was not with a mind to quit them of their belong-
ings, because he, and those of his Order [Religidn] desired to be the
poorest in the world ; that rather he brought them their remedy and
riches for the true knowledge of one sole God in Trinity of Persons ;
and that this sole Grod was so powerful and strong that having Him
on their side that would be protected and defended as well against
their spiritual as their corporal enemies ; and that as God was the
eternal Truth, this shield sufficed that they [need] not fear the noc-
turnal shades of those false gods they were adoring. They, with the
most civil words they knew, gave him thanks for the great toil of
having come to their country, without more interest nor profit than
to seek their well-being and repair ; that because they understood
it, they had come to supplicate him, as Caciques and lords (as they
were) of some settlements five leagues from there, that he would
hold it l>est to go to their pueblos, where they wished to have him, to
regale and serve him , and that he should not remain there [in Ci-
bola] with a people that met his paternal love with so much ingrati-
tude. In these colloquies, and others upon the matter, they stayed
until the day ; but at its first resplendency they took their leave of
the Father Fray Roque, saying to him : ''Rest, Father ; do not be
*Doabtle«8 ntispriot for iraieioftt treachery.
EARLY WESTERN HJSTORY. -^9
anxious, and leave it in our charge to talk to and reclaim the Cap-
tains of this pueblo." Well did the Father Fray Roque perceive
that this visit came guided by heaven ; and thus he remained singing
the mercies of God for so g^eat favor in such an exigency. The
Caciques fulfilled their word, and came next day with the Principales
and Captains of the pueblo, beseeching pardon for their ill hospi-
tality, confessing that the oracle of their god had tricked them, that
it had told them that with the water of Baptism they were sure to
die. And if it is well considered how the words of the Demon are
equivocal, he meant to tell them that they must die for their fault
and sin, and for his dominion, since with the water of Baptism a soul
is bom again to a new life of grace. To this they added that not
only they but all that pueblo wished to be washed with holy Baptism.
The Father Fray Roque received them with amicable caresses, and
began at once to instruct them and teach them in the Faith ; princi-
pally the Caciques, who remained with him some days. And seeing
that they were well catechised and sufficiently fit, he disposed the
Baptism of them. And to shew forth this act, he ordered to be built
in the plasa a high platform, where he said Mass with all solemnity,
and baptized them [on the] day of the glorious St. Augustin of this
year of 1629; singing the Te Deum JLaudamos, &c.; and, through
having so good a voice, the Father Fray Roque — accompanied by the
chant — caused devotion in all. He gave the name of Augustin to the
most principal [man], baptizing, jointly with him, other principales ^
and eight infants, children of Christians [who had] fled from the Camp
of the Spaniards, in sight of that copious multitude which in suspense
watched the celebration of those two Sacraments adorned with such
pure ceremonies. The most principal Cacique, already called " Don
Augustin," when done with being baptized, turned around to the
people with singular spirit and made a great exhortation, animating
those present to receive so good a law and so good a God ; and in
order that they should come forth from their error, that they should
perceive that he had had himself baptized, and that he had not died,
but rather felt himself in great rejoicing and courage in his heart,
wherewith he judged that he was more valiant than before. Whereat
all cried out with one voice, begging to be Christians, and that the
Father would teach them that holy law. In the culture of these
primitive flowers of this new Church, and in offering to God so many
souls, converted with his labor and holy zeal, the Father Fray Roque
remains. Happy employments of so well-aimed purposes ; since he
has found life in Christ, who determined to lose it for love of Him.
In this time the Apaches [misprint Apoches] — the fiercest and
most valorous Nation that is known in those parts ; so extended that
it reaches encircling the perimeter of New Mexico — have come to
ask for peace with the Christian Indians, and Spaniards ; and,
jointly, for Ministers who shall baptize them ; although there are
already two [Ministers] among them. And [it is] of much import-
ance, for bridling the daring with which they did much damage.
They gave to the Fathers twelve Indians who should come with
them ; and a boy, that he might learn the Castilian tongue and
teach them his own, whom they brought to the Villa of Santa F^,
where they were received with general applause, due to the triumph
of their heroic enterprise. There they arranged to provide wagons
and the other requisites to return to the Humanos the coming March.
The country is abundant and fecund in herds and fruits ; so much
that from one fanega of wheat a hundred are harvested. Copious
in metals and exquisite stones ; and in silver, so much that it yields
eight ounces by quicksilver [treatment] and 4 marks by smelting.
This is what there is to report at present of what has happened m
this expedition. 1[T«aus D90.
With tfais number, the name under which, through full
fifteen volumes, the magazine has made the friends it
values — and some enemies it is no less glad of — serves for
the last time. This is the ultimate Lakd op STmsaiNB —
under that title. The next number, January, will be Out
Wbst, and of the size of Harper's. On one of the adver-
tising pa^es of the present number, will be found a
reduced facsimile of the new cover, showing the sub-
title and motto.
That neither friends nor enemies may be misled, it is
well to state here and now that the Land of Sunseokb
has not sold out, tired out, gone out, nor changed its mind.
It has simply grown up. Its soul goes marching on — in a
bigger and better body and with longer strides. The men
who have made it will continue to make it under the new
name ; with more power to their elbow ; with strong new
men enlisted that agree with them ; with a sudden — some
would say with a providential — opening-out of Opportunity
to do the same things better and to do more of them.
Under the new form it will still be the magazine you have
liked (or disliked) — "only more so." Through its years of
hard up-hill fighting it has never budged an inch from its
path. It has never "run after people," but trudged aloog
with its eye on the goal. Wherefore it is some satisfaction
to succeed. Now the gradients and the people both slope
its way. Even to those whose faith has never wavered, it
is literally wonderful how many and how great currents
are at last running in the direction the magazine is ap-
pointed to go. It believed rivers must run that way, and
simply went on across the ox-bow. Back yonder, the cur-
rent ran north; but over here it is headed for the ultimate
ocean.
There would seem to be something wrong at a
"* wedding at which there were not a few tears for
the girl that has Grown Up. There is a certain
sentiment in us of regret that she wouldn't stay little. We
are used to her so — and to call her MoUie. But they are
not hot tears. The main thing is that she shall have
IN THE LION'S DEN. 471
gftown up Tvell; that she shall not chang^e her nature when
she changfes her name ; and that the new name shall mean
her greater happiness and her broader duties.
The Lion has no fault to find that more than a ^hk
few friends of this his child are regretful for ^'^^'^hanck
her change of name. It would be a pity otherwise.
He is a little sorry himself — that it wasn't changed before
they got so wonted to it. There has not been an hour in
seven years in which he has not intended to change it
when the time should be ripe. The time now is ; and the
specific change is his choice. The little **boom" folio
monthly as which the magassine originated (without com-
plicity of his) was excellently titled by a name smacking
about equally of Sunday School and Immigration Bureau ;
and six months later (when it took on a new editor and a
new complexion) was no time for swapping names — nor did
it seem wise in the years of stress. It may be that in these
years the words have acquired some other associations ;
but the old ones also cling. The Lion has nothing against
Chambers of Commerce or Sunday Schools ; but the maga-
zine is not an organ of either of them. Furthermore, four-
word titles are not only bad art but a public nuisance —
and, like stilted names for children, sure to be nicknamed
**for short." As a matter of fact, it has been oftenest
called * 'Sunshine" — which is a little less suggestive of boom
literature, but a little more as if it were a Christian En-
deavor, or a Serial Smile by the Lion's friend and neigh-
bor, Robert J. Burdette. And while perhaps either would
be better, it is neither.
Now, anyone who still insists on weeping for the bride
— may do so while the procession comes back down the aisle.
Like a proper girl, she has grown up, always meaning to
change her name sometime. She has changed it — and the
old folks think she has chosen well.
In selecting a new name for the magazine there what
are several things to reckon with ; and they have ^^^^t^
been digesting here for some years. It must be a
name not already in use ; it ought to stand for something ;
it ought to indicate — as clearly as may be in a few letters
— what it stands for ; it must be dignified, short, character-
istic, significant ; and it must be a clear improvement on
the "maiden name" it supplants. That many people have
not had to think of all these things is evident from just so
many letters the Lion has received. He Aas had to.
The Springfield Republican, one of the most in- appkovai,
fluential newspapers in the East, says in the course '^^^^««*»,^«r
of a generous comment on the proposed change :
472 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
" The jirosperitj of this excellent mag^asine is welcome, and so is
its new title, not only because of its wider meaning* but because it is
so much more easily used. The statement of its ambitions, however,
suggests that if it were to be called the Pacific Monthly it would be
the nearer antithesis of the Atlantic Monthly ^ and the comparison
and contrast would be the more interesting. Since the Overland fell
out of the ranks, a magazine of the real West, not our inland West,
has been much wanted, and The I^ and op Sunshinb has done much
to show the direction and temper in which its work should be accom-
plished. Its editorial exxnression has been strongly for the nobler
principles of the United States."
WHY With due and grrateful deference to the Republi--
^''^ raw and its opinion, the Lion expects to convert
both. Pacific Monthly is the first name he thoug-ht
of, years ago — and the last he would adopt. Western im-
modesty may be visible, but it is not structural. If no-
where in the world there is less worship of the conventions
which are mere fetiches, neither is there anywhere in the
world more respect for the Enduring Thing. The last
thought of the Lion would be to challenge "comparison
and contrast" with the Atlantic^ for which he retains much
of his New England awe — and something of his New Kag--
land eyesight. It was the first High Place to print one of
his youthful poems; its bound volumes from Vol. I. onward,
in the old familiar cloth, are treasures of his shelves. And
he knows its present circumstances. It is determined and
enabled by its environment ; an expression of quiet culture
in the afternoon years of ease. It is not quite reasonable
to compare any other magazine with it whatsoever ; least
of all a little . Western magazine which is come to bring
not peace but the sword ; which stands not for culture in
the easy chair but for what culture can be kept in a noble
strife ; fighting its own way and hewing a thoroughfare
for some causes it believes in — not as academic dreams but
as vital needs for better individual and national living.
PBBCISBI.Y In the things money will buy — and beautiful
^^^ coMPKTB writing by famous authors is one of them — the
magazine can not now compete with those who
have far more money. In the things only age and a huge
population can give, it is not even certain that it cares to
compete. It selected its own specific and exclusive field so
as not to compete with the elbowing and somewhat stam-
peded multitude of Eastern magazines ; and it has stuck
to its field, which it now enlarges only in kind. But in
that field it can be quite as careful to prefer solids to
prettv shams ; quite as ready to find out and draw out those
who ' have it in them " for literature or scholarship. Just
as well as the big ones, it can choose the relative best of
the material offered ; just as well as they, discourage dis-
honest work — and draw that definition quite as sharply.
IN THE LION'S DEN, *73
AH this mig"ht perhaps be reason enougfh ; but Qvrtn
there is other — even were there not a frontier sense *^^%nowoh
of humor in the serene Atlantic named for the
stormy ocean, and this strenuous magfazine named for the
ocean that is Placid. The Republican may not have
realized that out here on the Pacific Coast the word
** Pacific" has not all the thrill of surprise. There are
Pacific bakeries, steamships, hotels, dairies, railroads,
saloons, churches, stables, Universities, streets, transfer
companies, cigfar-stands, corsets — by the ocean. There
are floods of Pacific printing offices, bookstores, almanacs,
periodicals ; daily, weekly, monthly and occasional Pacifies ;
Pacifies religious, secular, christian science^ and osteo-
pathic. There is at least one Pacific Monthly at present.
»(
Out West," on the other hand, covers precisely b^*
what this magazine means to cover-and in the *™,^^
way it means to cover it. It apes no one, warms-
over no one's wit, invites no comparisons. It is new,
strong, significant and cannot be nicknamed In two plain
Saxon words it says what it wants to say (and let not New
England fancy that I should have written "wishes").
With only seven letters — instead of the old or the proposed
seventeen — it includes half the continent and all that lies
beyond. Nor is the '*Out" reproachful, as one anxious
reader has felt. *' Out West" is not Out of the World but
Out of the Ruts. How much more it means, must be left
for another text.
But meantime the Lion seriously commends to his ^ ™n^
biggers and betters, and to all others, that they ®^ ^i«ANBfC
shall read and weigh the poem which will open the
January number ; for it tells, better than he has ever been
able to tell, something of the spirit and the meaning of
Out West. For that matter, he does not remember just
who of the Great Names is writing that sort of verse any-
where, about anything. If the Republican and the Atlantic
do, he will accept correction gratefully.
Doubtless there is no real need to take heavier workinos
weapons than a switch to those whose disengaged ®^ ^^'lowDg
minds urge that the Philippines be re-named "the
McKinley Islands" — with or without the consent of any
other nation. For these would-be godfathers are so visibly
*' traitors" that they cannot expect to impose on any one
who has a sense of humor. They are trying to work-oflf
damaged second-hand goods for a monument — as promoters
of which they would claim a first-class reputation.
If they cannot think of any better way to honor the dead
474 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
than by tearing: out leaves from the geogrraphy, they should
at least be respectful enough to choose a better page. That
of the Philippines is a sore and shabby one. If they had
cared as much about the nature of the compliment as they
do to be able to strut afterward as the persons who paid a
compliment to a great man dead, they could have done
better. The United States, for instance, is a country of
the first-class. None of us are secretly sorry it is on the
map ; none of us are wishing some one would '^ help us
let go of it." To have it named after him would be a
crowning honor to the greatest man in the world. Why do
not these sly belittlers come out and launch a papular
movement to change the name ^* United States" to ' Mc-
Kinleya ?" If the people approve of the change, it will be
made ; if not, not. But these conspirators further insult
the dead by proposing to paste his name upon a country
whose people do not approve. This, of course, is a thing
only a Caesar — and a very stupid Caesar — would counten-
ance. Prest. McKinley was a man whose head and heart
would have revolted at this barbarous folly of the Intel-
lectually Unemployed.
Let us, so far as possible, try to remember President
McKinley and the Philippines at different times of day.
Let us remember him in the evening — a great popular
President. His page is written. Let us remember them
in the morning — as part of the day's work. For their page
is not written yet ; and no man knows how it shall look
when we are done with all the writing and erasing and
blotting and interlining we must do.
Of course, no one who knows or respects history or
human nature ever puts forward these absurd propositions
to wipe out centuried and geographical names, and to re-
christen a nation ; and certainly no one of reasonable tact
would think of it as an honor to any man to name after
him a Pig in a Poke.
i]PTHBY In his annual report to the Secretary of the
TEmR^UADSR Navy, Commander Benj. F. Tilley, our great Amer-
ican Governor-General at Tutuila, Samoa, states
that the natives of this Island Possession are ' ^ a gentile,
kindly, simple-minded people," and that ''the form of
government instituted by the United States has proven
very popular with them. " He finds only two reforms need-
ful to be made among them — ^both to curb their improvident
generosity — but closes with the gratifying assurance that
an organized government has been established which
keeps the people quiet and happy, and is helping them
materially in their journey along the pathway toward com-
plete civilization."
IN THE LION'S DEN. *75
It must be 1 Under all the circumstances, the mind's eye
can see them fairly scampering along: that pathway — and
Commander Tilley is most of the circumstances. Happy
Tutuilans I Why not, when their great examplar of com-
plete civilization gets Happy early and often ? Quiet
Tutuilans — and wisely ; for who else can be heard when
Viceroy Tilley comes down both sides of the street ? The
^* officer and gentleman" who was picked up in the San
Francisco gutters a few months ago, drunk and in dis-
guise ; whom the soberest citizens and our most reputable
travelers picture in Tutuila as publicly intoxicated, as de-
bauching the natives, as gallopading through the streets
on the same horse with a drunken strumpet — who else so
well can teach ''complete civilization" to a ''gentle and
simple-minded people ?"
This is really nothing new. I have seen American
consuls and ministers just as creditable to us. But now we
are prancing in the arena as a World's Power. And we
shall have "insular problems" sure enough — and some
other problems — unless we turn over a new leaf in the
matter of our representatives abroad.
The Lion acknowledges receipt (from headquar- makers
ters) of the " declaration of intentions" of the ^'^THE^yroOT.
" Yaqui Junta " — whatever that may be. Of course
it means to be taken to be a congress of the Yaqui Indians
of Sonora, Mexico ; and no less probably it is a very cheap
and ignorant liar. The gist of these ' intentions " is that
Mexico is " mendicant," 'criminal," and must be absorbed
by the United States. " Therefore the annexation of
Mexico will bring about the triumphant free coinage of
silver, as well as the control of Panama by the United
States, thus placing in the hands of the North American
people the commerce of the world."
Sho, now ! The Lion is doubtless no older than he feels
— but that is old enough to have learned a little of Mexico,
of the Yaquis and of Nogales bummers. And what he
most enjoys is the names of these signers of this grammar-
school Yaqui Declaration of Pakerpendence. What a typical
Yaqui Indian name is John Dwyer I And it is really no
more humorous than the other five signatures — ^Romnaldo
Tenebanto, Kvaristo Gutmasoleo, Adinsola Cupo, Benito
Gutierres, Alejandro Plumoblanco. What a noble list of
Yaqui patriots — the "never-conquered" Yaquis — every
mother's brat of them with a Mexican Catholic baptismal
name, and precisely 50 per cent, of them misspelling their
respective patronymics I Even the cheap tramps of Nogales
should have taken us for a little less fools !
476 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
STRAIGHT Every week, still, the Lion has letters from un-
KNGusH^ redeemed Britons abusing him for his strictures on
the Boer war, accusing him variously of ^'hating^
Engfland," being: '^gfnorant," ''malicious," and a falsifier.
Some of these letters are from anonymous cads; but some
are from men of better breeding: than eyesigfht — and the
latter are worth an operation.
The g-reat English positivist Frederic Harrison, one of
the foremost critics and essayists in England, and vice-
president of the Royal Historical Society, is also pretty
well known in this country, where high honors have been
paid him this year. His distinguished volume of American
Addresses has been briefly noticed in these pages. What
Mr. Harrison has to say (in the London Daily News) about
the Boer war is so true, so bravely and so clearly said that
contrary to his usu^ habit the Lion makes considerable
quotation :
" If your readers would care to understand," says Mr. Harrison,
" something of the ' panoplied hatred' with which my friends and I
regard this very brutal episode in an infamous war, I will put our
case before them in plain words. I am neither ' little Englander' nor
' pro-Boer' nor * cosmopolitan crank' but a patriotic Englishman,
who does not think his country's greatness needs to be eked out with
more Ugandas, and refuses to applaud every folly and crime into
which demagogues in office may contrive to delude the nation.
" The official return has disclosed a barbarous, vindictive, system-
atic attempt to terrorize and crush a brave enemy in arms, by dev-
astating a country which it was found impossible to conquer, by
ruining the homes of soldiers with whom we were waging war, and
by exposing their wives and children to misery and want. This was
a violation of the recognized laws of civilized war, and was expressly
forbidden by The Hague Conference. It was especially infamous
when resorted to against an honorable body of citizens who were
defending the existence of their country. It was insane folly in the
case of a people whom it was designed to incorporate in the empire,
who had actually been proclaimed as our fellow-countrymen.
" It was a policy so degrading in plan and so revolting in its conse-
quences that any honorable soldier would have been justified in de-
clining to undertake such butcher's work. But our commanders,
accustomed to wholesale slaughter and devastation in warfare with
savages in Asia and Africa, and unaccustomed to fight with any men
of European race, were found willing to act on it. And ministers at
home .were found willing to palliate it with cheerful indifference and
evasive sneers. Both soldiers and ministers may count on this, that
their names will live in history with those who ordered and executed
the barbarities of the Thirty Years' War, the devastation of the
Palatinate, and the dragonnades of Louis XIV.
*' Barbarities of the kind became only too probable when our
rulers entered ' with a light heart' on a war to conquer and crush one
of the toughest, bravest, most independent races in the world, and
gaily announced that ' not a shred of independence' would be left to
men of proverbial courage and obstinacy, who for many generations
have faced death, famine, and the extremes of suffering in order to
live free — and especially free of the hated British bondage. When
the swindlers and braggarts told us that a little show of force would
cow these Dutch farmers, that, even if war did result, it would be
/A/ THE LION'S DEN. *77
over in a few weeks and would only cost a few millions, when they
entered on one of the most formidable wars of the century with
ignorance so laughable and arrog^ance so blind, it became clear to all
who knew the history and nature of the Boer and the physical con-
ditions of the task that ghastly ferocities would be resorted to, and
that our British name would be dragged down from each meanness
and atrocity to still lower depths. . . .
"Into this stupendous folly, into this abominable crime, the
British adventurers in South Africa have induced our government to
plunge. They rigged the political market, they gave 'commissions'
to leading politicians, they hired the press of Africa and at home,
they poured out on the public ear a torrent of calumny and sensa-
tional falsehoods, they organized a foul act of piracy, they bullied
and blackmailed the ' department,' they made the representative of
the crown their creature.
" This responsible governor of a self -governing colony stooped to
play the part which some noble chairman of a rotten company per-
forms as the iigtirehead of a board of guinea-pig directors. He be-
haved as an Irish viceroy would behave, if he made himself the
grand master of the Orange faction, hounded them on to insult, mis-
represent, and attack their Catholic fellow-subjects, and personally
labored to bring about a civil war. He mouthed out rhetorical abuse
of the government with which he was sent to negotiate ; he insulted
and defieh the constitutional ministers he was bound to consult ; he
resorted to his old journalistic epigrams to mislead and irritate
people at home ; he concealed from them the feeling* of the inhabi-
tants of the colony he governed ; he deceived his chiefs at home by
false accounts of the perils before them and of the means of com-
promise at hand. And, when he saw the possibility of a peaceful
issue to the imbroglio he had fanned, he took care to make a settle-
ment impossible and war the natural result.
" War, indeed, did result ; and it is only one of the same election-
eering tricks to pretend that the Boers began it. When they saw
the empire armed and heard the open menaces of the official dis-
patches, their invasion of Natal was a mere strateg^ic move, as a
man threatened by a gang* of armed burglars might give the first
blow to protect himself. And now, when a wasting and savage war
has gone on for nearly twenty months with no visible result except
the slaughter of myriads of men, the waste of ;f 150,000,000, ruin, dev-
astation, and famine broadcast over the very country we pretend to
call part of our empire, and deadly hatred planted in a race of men
that never forgets, whom we pretend to call fellow-citizens — now we
are asked to join in the mock triumph of the author of all this shame
and confusion, of this ghastly anarchy and never-dying source of
future strife. This worst enemy of his country, this contriver of in-
calculable ruin, is called away from the chaos into which he has
plunged his colony to receive the honors of a victorious soldier. Let
us not join in this squalid electioneering farce, the same kind of ad-
vertising trick by which tx>ld tradesmen try to rouse a boom in their
tea, or their wines, or their miraculous soap.
" Not only are we being ruined, humiliated and made odious as a
nation, but we are being made the laugh ing'-stock of the world.
This grotesque fooling for party ends is transforming us into a race
of blackguards. The disgusting orgies of Mafficking and carnivals
were encouraged and financed by politicians and advertising trades-
men. They were blessed by the clergy of that church which assures
us that 'God made war.' Soldiers who have violated the laws of
nations, and have left the field of their so-called conquests a scene of
chaos and confusion, swept by incessant and aimless fighting, are
hailed as if they were the saviors of the country. Generals who
^78 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
have suffered humiliatiiig' defeats, over which the civilized world ha*
made merry, vapor about at bazars and g^arden parties as heroes auid
heaven-born commanders. No one denies the splendid courage
shown hj our soldiers, officers and men alike ; nor do we fail to honor
the patience, cheerfulness, and tenacity of sdl who have borne the
heat and burden of this long* and cruel day. But to swagger over
the deeds of men who have done their duty as English soldiers
always have done, to shout about the world with this immoderate
bluster over a campaign which, considering the petty enemy and
their narrow means, has been one long tale of rebuff, disappoint-
ment, miscalculation, disaster and perpetual ' regretable ' incidents
including more British soldiers taken prisoners than ever happened
in our long history before — this, I say, is more like the tone of the
Hooligans out Mafficking than of the Englishmen who beat Napoleon
and saved Europe. . . .
" ' The war is now over,' we are officially informed week by week by
commanders, ministers, and their friends in the press. We look on
these brazen untruths with alarm, for it is thought to be the prelude
to some new policy of rage and barbarism. But all is not 'over.'
We are not ' over' the deaully blow all this has struck at the empire,
the ruin and chaos it has spread through South Africa, the blood*
poison it has infused into public opinion, nor the stain on EngUsli
honor in the sight of the civilized world. There is another thing^,
too, which is not yet 'over.' And that is the nationality of the
Boer republics, which, I believe, are not yet crushed out forever —
which, as a patriotic Englishman, I trust never will be crushed out
forever."
TH« GiAKT "Hoi" cried the fly. "You had to notice me,
^""^l^^s ^^^ y^^ ^ ^'"* ^^^^^^ *^*^ y^ thought 1"
"Humph I" answered the substantial citizen,
reaching: for the broom ; "I don't observe that you weig^h
any more than you did. But you lighted on a tender spot."
• Only along some such lines is it conceivable that Messrs.
Field, Wilson and Alexander (a majority of the supervisors
of Los Angeles county, Cal.) could ever have become inter-
esting to any considerable public or wormed their names
into a magazine page — unless some monthly devoted to
Entomology and the particular Extermination of Insect
Pests. Like the fly, too, unused to praise, they seem to
prefer contempt to continued obscurity. The Daniel Web-
ster of the Far West — beyond reasonable discussion or
comparison the greatest mind California has yet produced
— died not long ago. Of the record of Stephen M. White
as a leader at the bar, of his place in State and National
politics, of his achievement and his stature in the Senate
of the United States, there needs no rehearsal here. In
our modern statecraft it has been given unto few men to
serve the State as highly and as broadly as he served it ;
unto still fewer has it been appointed to stand forth amid
our putty politics such a tower of majestic and incorrupt-
ible strength. In the city of Los Angeles was his home ;
here his early triumphs and some of his great ones. His
leonine spirit and presence and voice many a time filled and
IN THE LION'S DEN. 47?
thrilled and dominated that very county courthouse in one
of whose side rooms any one who cares to hunt for them
can find these three specimens official of cottony-cushion
scale.
But when a grateful public rolled up, from all over the
State, from all over the United States, and far faster than
was the national subscription for the Gen. Grant monu-
ment— $18,000 to erect a worthy statue in his home city to
Stephen M. White, then was the flies' chance to attract at-
tention. They refused to permit the statue to be erected
on the beautiful and commanding courthouse grounds —
where it would be most fitly placed, where an overwhelming
request of the representative people asked that it be placed.
Why ? '* Precedent," they say. But cowards are gener-
ally untruthful, and these are both. Taking them at their
word ; if California can raise enough Stephen M. Whites
to crowd all the courthouse grounds from Siskiyou to San
Diego with their statues, one apiece — well, she can afford
to enlarge the grounds. Whereas if she is going to breed
many more supervisorial gophers, we might better decide
to get along without courthouses altogether.
But the disgraceful truth is that the insult to a great
man's memory, and to his wife, and to his fellow citizens,
was for no other reason on earth than that he was born of
Catholic parents, in California when it was overwhelm-
ingly Catholic, and that he was man enough not to turn
renegade for political profit. And when in an intelligent
American community there is left any official body to bow
down to the always un-American and now long dead,
damned and decomposed A. P. A., it is time to disinfect.
The Lion is neither insectivorous nor . Catholic ; but he
hopes to live to see — and help hasten — the ^d of the last
grape-nut-brained enemy of his country who would hinder
an American living or dishonor him dead, because of his
religion.
And it is a good time for house-cleaning anyhow. With
the inspiring example in the White House of a President
neither afraid nor ashamed to put his own hand to the
broom in cleansing politics that have grown pretty dirty—
we needn't be too lofty or too lazy to abate our own little
local nuisances everywhere.
Chas. F. Lummis.
may expect of the author, Wm. Henry Hudson, " lately Profeuor of
English Iiiterature at Stanford University."
The California Ulssions, of course, are a perennial text ; and the;
are more be-written, perhapa, than any other one theme in the whole
West. Age cannot wither, nor cnatom stale, the infinite lack of
variety Lq the multitude of publications concerning them-^leriving-
almost invariably and almost exclasively from Bancroft's " Mon-
strum horrenttum, in/orme, ingens, cut lutaeit ademptum," of a
"history;" and strung in unassorted heads, upon whatsoever ten-
uous thread the borrower may have in his spinneret. There is
room — nay, an eager vacuum — for a first-class "popular" book on
this romantic subject; and one has never been printed yet. Mr. C.
F. Carter's comes nearest, perhaps ; but it falls short by much.
Prof. Hudson's academic contribution to the catalogue is in many
ways above the average, but in as many ways disappointing. We
might reasonably have asked from him a more ponderable work. It
is too much a mere casual "reading-up" for a hasty lecture, and
does not merit the permanency of binding. His grasp of the Mission
substanc« and theory, its policies and its economies, its history and
its hope, is timid, inexpert, inadequate. Perhaps it is the British of
it that enables this neat, little man not to see the humor of his patron-
ising estimate of that Lion-Heart of the Franciscans in California.,
Fray Junfpero Serra, and of the general outcome of the Mission
system ; but from whatever source it comes, it is unwelcome at this
date. It would be better, too, to handle this Apostle of California
with rather more respect of proofreading and the Manual of Sti-
qnette. " Junipero," the author calls him right along; not Fray
Junfpero," or Father Serra," or even "Serra." It ia like writ-
ing of our revolutionary times and always referring to Washington
as plain " George" — which most historians have sense enough not to
do. We are even left in doubt whether Prof. Hudson pronounces the
name " Jew-n(pper-o", as he spells it. "Jose" [apparently to be
called Joe's] in place of Josi [Ho-sky] is an even more aggravated
solecism maintained throughout. Other misspellings quite unpar-
donable here are " Villicati," " Francesco" Palon, "Crcsp^,"
" Filipe," "Mowjerio" {which Prof. Hudson translates "Monastery"
for Nuns) and " Moujaa." The San Diego Mission was not "trans-
ferred in 1874" to its present location— by rather some time.
These and the like minor blemishes would not so much count were
they upon the face of a reasonably adequate historic concept of the
generic theme ; but the whole grip of the story is superficial.
It is a serious omission in a book of this sort, even for tourist
consumption, to leave undated the many photographs of the Missiona.
Some of those used here are fairly recent ; others are from ten to
twenty years old, and the whole appearance of things is radically
THAT WHICH IS WRITTEN. 481
chang^ed since then. For instance, it is five years since Capistrano
has looked as it is here pictured ; and two to four times as long since
San Diego, Santa Barbara, San Fernando, etc., presented the appear-
ance credited to them by this book. This is bad business, even from
the *' business" side.
The book is very cheap for so handsome a production. Dodge Pub.
Co., 150 Fifth Avenue, New York. $1.50.
The venerable, amiable and interminable Noah Brooks i,Bwis
warms over the journal of I^wis and Clark into a fat " popu- and ci«ark
lax" volume with the misleading title First Across the Con- rbtoi^d.
tinent. Of course the two gallant captains sent out by Je£Ferson in
1804 were not "first across the continent'* by a trifling matter of 270
years ; nor the tenth across by time enough. But they were the first
officers sent across by the government of the United States; and
with a touch of that same exquisite race-modesty, which leads the
Encyclopedia Britannica to consider the world uncircumnavigated
until an Englishman did it (60 years too late), Mr. Brooks forgets
history for the sake of a catching title. It is an excellent example
of the thing historical students have so much to complain of — abuse
of truth for carelessness or for commercial ends.
The story of the Lewis and Clark expedition is reasonably well,
though rather dully, told. There is really very little need of wooden
books on this theme, after the journal of these great explorers them-
selves has been given its definitive edition by the late Dr. Elliott
Coues. His work was the last word any modest person would think
to speak ; and Mr. Brooks has not visibly approved the immodesty.
Aside from careless grammar and a general heaviness, the book
has many ineptitudes, Coyote is not *' pronounced kyote," and never
was, except by the illiterate. It is pronounced co-y6-te. The grease-
wood is not a ** pulpy-leaved thorn," nor either part thereof. The
" Beaver dams" shown in the illustration facing p. 134 have the most
remarkable construction ever yet noted in beaver architecture ; and
not only historians but beer-bottlers know better than '* Mt. Ranier."
The best feature of the book is that it largely quotes the Journal.
The illustration is not more satisfactory ; being largely copies of
Catlin's flat sketches — than which we do a good deal better nowa-
days. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 153-157 Fifth Avenue, New York. $1.50
net.
Of Dr. Eydward Robison Taylor, the scholarly translator of an om ar
Heredia, probably the best achievement thus far in general op
letters is Into the Lights a sequence of Omaresque stanzas hopk.
tinged with a larger optimism than the Persian's if without his
inevitable fire. Like all Dr. Taylor's work, this is scrupulous,
thoughtful and well-wrought; and this brochure — very attractively
printed — will add to his name. It is surprising to find in the first
line of the XXX stanza a lapse of meter. D. P. Elder & Morgan
Shepard, San Francisco. 75 cents.
More than ordinary worth attaches to the Swedish Fairy Swedish
Tales ^ by Anna Wahlenberg. For nowadays -which is a fairy
good while since the time when such things might be unso- tai«ks.
phisticated — these stories are simple, well-conceived and " in keeping. "
Fairy-tales, of course, hark back to times when standards were different
and ''society" unspoiled; and it is almost impossible for a modem
to write them without some touch of our artificialities. Miss Wahl-
enberg, however, has done very well indeed, and the illustration by
Helen Maitland Armstrong, is particularly good. A. C. McClurg 6l
Co., Chicago. $1.00 net.
^2 LAND OF SUNSHINE,
GOOD The Round Rabbit, "and other child verse," bj Agues
FOR TH9 Lee, is a yery beautifullj dressed and very charming- col-
YOUNGSTBRS. lection of some th]:eeHMX)re poems for little children, reprinted
from Si, Nicholas^ and the minor — as all the rest are — juveniles. It
is very rarely that so praiseworthy a volume of child verse is pat
forth, nowadays ; and the author is to be complimented not only for
a musical ear, but for an excellent judg'ment of what the children
like and should have. Small, Maynard & Co., Boston.
Another in the workmanlike little *' Beacon Biographies" is Ralph
Waldo Effterson, by Frank B. Sanborn, who is peculiarly fitted for his
task. Among pocket-size books, this series stands well. The por-
trait of Emerson is not quite up to the general standard of the
" Biographies." Small, Maynard A Co., BMton. 75 cents neL
A decorative and generally amiable hrochvire is /in^Us/rom/apam;
verses by Mabel Hyde. The '* Jing-les," of course, are not from Japan;
it is doubtful if they could be called so much as Japanesque ; but they
are not without point and feeling- ; and the illustrations are attractive.
Much wonM thinffs are generally done under this Invocation. A. M.
Robertson, San Francisco. 75 cents net.
C. F. L,.
KB Anthony Hope is still exploiting his " newer manner** in
SPRINGS THstram of Blent, and blood does not flow nor swords clash
BTBRNAX,. for our thrilling as in the good old days of Count Rupert.
But the fireworks are there just the same. The hero abandons herit-
age and title, which he holds impregnably (though, as he believes,
fraudulently) mainly — so far as appears — because the girl-consin
whom he thinks to be the lawful hedr has a trick of crossing her
knees and displaying her ankles that reminds him of his mother.
Then, by way of a breather making jf 10,000 in a few days in a
real estate operation, he wins the good graces of a Prime Sinister,
declines a proffered " beastly new viscounty," also the hand of his
cousin though tendered by herself. Next he discovers that the
property and title belong to him after all, and that he loves his
cousin. He persuades her to marry him out of hand, telling her only
of the latter part of his discovery, until the evening after their wed-
ding. Then she calls him a liar, with emphasis and repetition, and
vows she will leave him at once and forever. He is almost over-
whelmed, but recovers himself by naming her *' curmudgeon" with
such force and convincingness that she surrenders at discretion. No
one will venture to call the story hackneyed. McClure, Phillips &
Co., New York. $1.50.
A wiPB The Love of an Uncrowned Queen, by W. H. Wilkins, is not ,
OP THE as its title might lead one to guess, a romantic novel, but a
FIRST GEORGE, biography of Sophie Dorothea, wife of George I of England,
though divorced before he came to the throne. In direct descent from
them, in the sixth generation, is Eklward of England, and» in the sev-
enth, William of Grermany. The major portion of the volume is devoted
to her relations with Philip, Count Konigsmarck, and to their corres-
pondence, now for the first Umepublished. The burden of the letters —
on both sides — is " I love you. Why are vou not true to me?" The story
is tragic and pitiful enough — a few brief years of stormy, secret, jealous
love, then for him a sword to the heart as he left her chamber, and
for her divorce and imprisonment to the day of her death, thirty-two
years later. One cannot sympathize with the wronged husband,
whose mother described him as " the most pig-headed, stubborn boy
that ever lived, and who has round his brains such a thick crust that
I defy any man or woman ever to discover what is in them." Her-
bert 8. Stone & Co., Chicago and New York.
THAT WHICH iS WRITTEN. 483
The brightest of the newer stars in the Russian literary Russia,
firmament is, bj pretty general consent, Maxim GkSrky, and from
there are not a few who expect the very g^atest things from ixrn,
the maturity of his powers. One cannot call Foma Gordyeef—hiA
first long novel, now translated into B#nglish — pleasant reading, but
it is better than that ; it is alive, though a sombre and cynical
enough picture of Russian social and commercial life. G6rky's
personal encounters with living, through most of his three and
thirty years, have not been productive of cakes and ale to any con-
siderable extent. Orphaned at an early age, he was by turns
shoemaker's boy, draughtsman's apprentice, cook's boy, gairdener's
assistant, laborer in a bakery (at $1.50 a month), apple-peddler, dock-
workman, wood-sawyer, railway-watchman, and so on, getting into
prison "seven or eight times" by way of variety. He was well
towards thirty before he began to write for publication, but then
leaped into reputation almost at a bound. Miss Hapgood's transla-
tion of the present volume seems competent, and the publication is
authorized by G6rky. Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. $1.00.
Heloise Bdwina Hersey's To Girls is an annoying volume hrart to
for the reviewer. Taken as a whole, it is sincere, useful, hkart
even inspiring. Tet there are many sins both of omission tau:s
and commission. It may be only a wise reticence which forbids any
more extended treatment — in 247 pages of advice to young women —
of one of the questions which must come before most young women,
than a bare mention of " the process which we call failing in love."
A mere man may be only exposing his own ignorance in smiling
over the " deep and effective resolutions made by many a girl in a
hammock as she passes a June morning over a novel ;" and it may
be only personal blindness which fails to see in General McClellan
" the modem counterpart" of the melancholy Dane. But if "shouldn't
yon admire to?" is indeed " a refreshing New Bnglandism" there is
at least one " New Knglander" of some experience who had, till he
read this book, failed to be refreshed by it. Small, Maynard & Co.,
Boston.
Sieph&n Calinari is a study of the transformation of an a fost-
O^ord undergraduate — ^rich, clever and uncommonly con- graduatb
ceited — into a worker with serious purposes, a chastened course.
oinnion of himself, and a prospect of usefulness. Factors in bring-
ing about this result are three love-affairs, a taste of war in the
Balkans and a contest for a seat in Parliament — all packed into
some fifteen months. This makes the action brisk enough, to say
the least, and the story is never dull. But can Mr. Julian Sturg^s
really mean us to understand that " we ain't " and " you ain't " are
familiar phrases on the lips of the British Aristocracy 7 Chas. Scrib-
ner's Sons, New York. $1.50.
The five sketches of life in an Illinois country village, col- ijlfb
lected under the title of The Battle Invisible^ are rather in
character drawings than stories. The author, Eleanor iu^inois.
C. Reed, is introduced by the publishers as "a new Chicago writer."
It may be unfair to wonder whether the " new " or the " Chicago " is
responsible for making a girl bom when her father was thirty-four
years old reach the agfe of eighteen only when he is past sixty, as
happens in the first story. In spite of such blemishes, the work is
worth while and gives promise of better to come. A. C. McClurg &
Co., Chicago. $1.25.
The content of As a Falling Star seems to this reader too slight —
and too sickly-sweet — for its attractive setting. A. C. McClurg &
Co., Chicago. $1.00.
484 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Trashier works have been printed than Sylvia: The Story of an
American Countess, But that is not a sufficient excuse for either
publisher or author. As to the glittering bait dangled to allure pur-
chasers (a chance of winning $500 or a part of it, by passing judg--
ment on the beauty of the heroine as conceived by twelve different
artists) comment is needless. A ticket in the I/ittle Louisiana
Lottery would cost less. A redeeming touch of the comic is the
fact that only two or three of the twelve artists can possibly have
read the book, if one may judge by the pictures. Small, Maynard
& Co., Boston. $1.50.
Never a man of lower title than "Count" — except Sir Walter
Raleigh — is allowed to play a part in Charlton Anderson's A
Parfit Gentil Knight^ while Princes of the Blood Royal are thick
as huckleberries. E^ven the maid of the heroine is entitled to the
de. The scene of the story is France, the time the reign of Charles
IX, and the motive the honorable love of a very gallant gentleman
for the wife of his dearest friend. A. C. McClurg & Co., Chica^no.
$1.50.
The three hundred and more issues of Appleton's " Town and
Country Library" have included many good stories — very few more
interesting than The Seal of Silence, by Arthur R. Conder. WiAi
enough plot to hold the attention and enough action to keep things
moving, there is clear-cut character-drawing, admirable discretion
and a very pretty turn of humor. The tale would have done credit
to any veteran* It was the first book of a very young man, and he
died — more*s the pity — before it was printed. D. Appleton Sl Co.
New York. 50c.
As its title would suggest. The Grapes of Wrath, by Mary Harriott
Norris, is a story of the close of our Civil War. There is love in it,
and battle ; swift death and painful endurance, with the sun shining
over peaceful reunion at the end. Small, Maynard Sl Co., Boston.
$1.50.
The nine tales by Quiller-Couch just published under the title of
The Laircl*s Luck give excellent proof of his versatility aa a
story teller. They range from the pure fantasy of " Phoebus On
Halzaphron" to the rattling adventure of "The Two Scouts."
" Poisoned Ice " is sufficiently ghastly-grim, while "Midsummer
Fires" is a very delicate and tender study of a life-long love. The
volume is distinctly worth reading. Chas. Scribner's Sons, New
York. $1.50.
Grimple*s Mind, published by A. G. Rogers, at Santa Barbara,
and acknowledged by Morrison J. Swift, costs ten cents or twenty-
five, according to whether you buy a copy printed on light paper or
heavy. Whether you get your money's worth or not depends mainly
on your sense of humor.
The publishers say concerning Lincoln's First Love that it *'is
not necessarily authentic in all its details." To which may be added
that their share in making the little book has been beautifully done.
A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago. $1.00.
Shan;? Bullock's Irish Pastorals are nearly perfect in their way —
and the way is a mighty good one. True as photographs — and with
no " retouching" of the negatives — there is never a pose nor a strain-
ing after effect, nor ever a failure to get just the picture the artist
wanted. We are in no danger of having too many such studies of
life and character as these. McClure, Phillips & Co., $1.00.
C. A. M.
CmdMMd by WILLIAM E. SMITHS.
A large part of the apace available for this department in rexT
the present iwue is devoted to the announcement of the ^™
■cope it will assume hereafter, and of the topics it will
bring before the people of the West during 1902. Om Wb9T Is to
be a more comprehensive publication than Thb La.md oT Bunshins.
It will cover a wider field and in a somewhat different way. It will
aim not onlj to discuss events and record historr, but to some extent
to shape events and make historj. It purposes to go out and meet
the problems of the future at least half-way. tt would rather be a
little ahead of its day than a little behind. It prefers to try to ac-
compliata something, and fail, rather than to play the coward's part
of attempting nothing because not assured of success in advance.
The man who tries to reform Institutions must prepare to about
be denounced as " utterly impracticable." This is true
everywhere and always, but just a little more emphatically
true in California tban anywhere else. There never was a situation
BO bad that somebody was not satisfied with it, and that somebody
would not suffer from any change. Even the pestilence fills the
pockets of doctors and undertakers. And those who set out
upon the reform of bad laws or the inauguration of new and
progressive policies always meet with the fierce opposition of " prac-
tical nien." Do you advise the Sacramento Valley to withdraw from
the business of raising wheat at a loss and to irrigate, subdivide,
and diversify 7 Then you are " utterly impracticable." Do you
want to abolish the water laws that have worked disastrously and
put in their place the successful code of Wyoming? "Impractic*
able" again 1 Do yoa urge cooperative buying and selling among
the producers of California 7 Would you face the admitted evil ot
great unproductive estates with the just and effective remedies ap-
plied by men of your own race and time in other lands? Well, well I
Yon are a walking embodiment of impractibility in its most hopeless
and ridiculous aspect 1 The " practical man" contends that things
which have failed are splendidly successful if they are old, and that
things which have succeeded are dangerous and Utopian if they
happen to be new in this particular latitude. And the only comfort
that is left for the " impracticable man" is the fact that his kind
monopolizes the pages of history, while the other kind who said that
■•86 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
thingrs conld not and must not Ibe done have gone down "to the
tonguelesa silence of the voiceless dust."
TWBEDLBDDU Tiiere is another charge for which we muBt be prepared.
*>^^ If we favor public works of irrigation in Califoraia we
TWBEDUDEK. ^,,^j, 1^ branded as Socialists. Is Theodore Roosevelt a
Socialist because he favors public works of irrigation throughont
the West? Is James J. Hill, the malti-tnillionaire president of the
great combination recently formed to own 42,000 miles of railroad, a
Socialist because be favors the same thing? Were the framers of
the last Republican and Democratice National platforms Socialists
because thej made exactly the same declaration 7 Surelj no odc
would advance the silly sophistry that it is Socialism for the State
to build irrigation works, but not Socialism at all for the nation to
do identiii^tly the same thing. " Liet'a have some sense!" as a famous
debater used to say. No, gentlemen, the truly practical man is the
one who stands for a wise and workable idea, whether it be new or
old. And yon can never stigmatize the man who favors public
works in California unless you do the same to the man who favors
public works elsewhere. You will have to find stronger arguments
than these if you want to win the verdict of the people, or even save
your reputation for ordinary intelligence.
" The CAN'T- There is still another argument to confront the advocates
BB-DOKB Qf reform. They will be told that even if their ideas are
SCHOOi,. g^nd they can never be carried out in CaUfomia. The
masses of the people are too indifferent, the forces of the opposition
too powerful. On that theory there could never be any progress in
this world. Columbus could never have discovered America, the
great Republic could never have been founded, and slavery could
never have l)een abolished. But Christopher Columbus, George
Washington and Sam Adami, Lloyd Garrison and Wendell Phillips
refused to subscribe to that theory. And there are some earnest and
obstinate souls in California who refuse to subscribe to it. Like
other men who have braved opposition in order to enjoy the luxury of
battling for what they believed to be eternally right, the friends of
reform in California will put their hands to the plow and do what
they can. And if they do not live to behold the fruits of their
labors their children or their grandchildren are likely to do ao.
w
487
A Program for California.
|ITH its next number this magfazine takes a new
name and enters upon new and broader purposes.
In his editorial announcement in October Mr. Lum-
missaid: *'Il will be the standard-bearer of what it be-
lieves to be the right solution of the most tremendous prob-
lems this half of the United States has ever faced ; and it
will reach out to problems that cannot much longer be
dodged by either the business or the scholarship of the
country at large."
It will be the work of this department to deal fully and
fearlessly, but always fairly, with the great vital questions
involved in developing the social and economic character of
California and the West. The writer has devoted the best
years of his life to fitting himself for such a task. He
knows the history and resources of this Western land be-
cause he has studied them as other men study law or
science or the various lines of business in which they are
engaged. He knows the people and the life of the people
because he has associated with them, worked with them,
suffered with them, and struggled with them in the strife
and friction of growing institutions. He has tried to know
the needs of this region and to learn the remedies for the
obstacles and evils which hamper its progress. And now
the time has come for action — the time to propose measures
and submit them for the consideration of the people of
California, the West, and the nation.
THE STATE AS IT REAI^I^Y IS.
Now, what is California ?
It is, of course, first and foremost among the States
which make up the Western half of the Republic. All
that Massachusetts and New York are to the Atlanv'^c sea-
board California is to the Pacific seaboard. It is the
Leader in commerce, in science, in letters, and in art.
And so it must always be.
California is the land of the Sun, the land of mighty
trees, the land of fruits and flowers and gold. All this ^ e
know and every schoolboy knows it by heart. But does it
follow that California is a finished country — its foundatior.s
488 LAND OF SUNSHtNE.
laid broad and true, its superstructtire built story upon
story, its culminating domes and turrets reaching^ to the
sky and looking down*on a perfected and faultless civiliza-
tion ? Is there nothing more to be done ? Beyond the
palms, the magnolias, and the orange groves, back of the
splendid heritage of soil and climate, of stately forests, of
towering mountains, and enfolding seas, is there no in-
spiring task for men to do ?
Aye, the real living, breathing California is but a raw
and uncouth thing, waiting to be civilized, waiting to be
shaped, waiting to be hammered into the form of beauti-
ful, just, and enduring institutions on the anvil of debate,
by the brawny strength of a great people. We have
praised it enough. Let us do better now — let us make it
worthy of our praise. Let us close our eyes to its scenic
and climatic glories and open our eyes to its civic, economic,
and social nakedness.
Let us forget for the time the few perfect types of civili-
zation that dot our valleys — our Redlands, our Riverside,
and our Ontario — which we photograph and exhibit to the
world. And let us remember the great sprawling wilder-
nesses of barren soil which we do not photograph and ex-
hibit. Let us cease talking of our masonry dams, ce-
mented ditches, and underground pipes, and talk for a
while of the wasted floods and parched valleys that know
not dams, ditches, or pipes. Let us turn from those cele-
brated examples of f ruitf ulness, where men live amid beauty
and plenty, to those voiceless valleys where fourfooted
beasts trample the fertile soil that should sustain millions
of men, women, and children.
Let us put out of mind for the present the few little
farms which have made California a charmed word all over
the earth, and fix our gaze on the great useless estates that
impoverish the commonwealth without enriching their
owners. Let us cease our paeans to the Big Trees, and
think of the forest fires that dry the fountain at its source
and rob future generations of their birthright. Let us
stop bragging about the wonderful iron works that '* built
the Oregon," and contemplate the cruel war between capi-
tal and labor which shut those works down and filled the
20TH CENTURY WEST. 489
streets of San Francisco with idle men and special police —
the thin crust of a social volcano.
In a word, let us look at California as it really is — a
State of enormous possibilities and meager achievement ;
a State that could support forty millions, yet increased less
rapidly than Massachusetts in the last ten years ; a State
with congested cities and stagnant or languishing agricul-
ture ; a State preeminently fitted by nature to be the para-
dise of the common people, yet branded with monopoly-
ownership of land and water and cleaving to the barbarism
of physical force in the settlement of its labor disputes.
Nowhere else is there another land for which God has
done so much and man has done so little. What are its
true economic problems ? What are its real social ques-
tions ?
TAey are the problems and the questions of water ^ of land^
and of labor.
How are they to be met and solved ?
THE STATE EI*ECTlON OF 1902.
Next year California will face the duties and opportuni-
ties of a quadrennial election. It is at the ballotbox, and
there alone, that the people may register entire satisfac-
tion with things as they are, or may decree that things
shall be diflEerent hereafter.
There are few States which choose a Governor no of tener
than the nation chooses a President. There is none other
in which the selection of a Chief Magistrate signifies so
little as to the policy of the commonwealth. When has a
candidate for this highest office in California's gift brought
forward great measures and said to his fellow-citizens :
" This is what I stand for. If I am chosen, my adminis-
tration will inaugurate these new policies with the confi-
dent expectation of increasing the prosperity and greatness
of the State."
In other States, in the Nation at large, in the countries
of Europe, and in the self-governing English colonies, elec^
tions turn upon measures proposed by statesmen. But in
California the precious opportunity which comes but once
in four years is frittered away in trivial strife between
small politicians. Did this candidate steal a sheep in his
490 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
boyhood ? Did that candidate once express admiration for
the works of Henry Greorge ? Such are the mighty issues
upon which newspapers, speakers, clubs, and voters Yiotk
themselves into a frenzy of enthusiasm and abuse.
What is the grand result ? The winning party gets the
offices. If the other party had won, another set of poli-
ticians would have got the offices. And that is all tHe
difference there is between them so far as State affairs axe
concerned. No evils are reformed. No constructive policies
are inaugurated. The x>oliticians draw their salaries.
That is the beginning and the end of the whole x)erform-
ance. In the meantime, we proceed for another four years
without lifting a finger to build the State.
The first item in an enlightened program for California
would be this :
7^0 vitalize the -politics of the State and compel it to deal
with living measures of constructive character.
WATBR — THE PROBLEM OF PRGBI^EMS.
The overshadowing question in the economic life of
California is this — How shall we get the water distributed
over the largest possible area of land ?
A few favored localities have solved this problem for
themselves by tireless labor and daring investment. But
speaking broadly, this is a State which needs irrigation
and has no present means of getting it. We are practically
no better off with our present laws than we would be if we
had no laws at all. Indeed, while none of our laws are
helpful, some of them are positively harmful. Such is the
riparian law. The anarchy resulting from present methods
of appropriating and distributing water, and the deep
menace to the economic liberties of our people involved in
the growing monopoly of this vital element, have been
treated in recent numbers of this magazine. The specific
reforms suggested for this condition of things by the
government are presented elsewhere in this number.
But when these important reforms shall have taken the
place of our present meager and illogical water code, and
of that thing of shreds and patches — the judicial decisions
construing the present code — what then ? Litigation over
20TH CENTURY WEST. ^^1
existing rights will cease. That is a great thing. The
supply will then be distributed in a legal and orderly
manner by public authority. That is another great
thing. But there will be no more water than there
is now. And there is not enough now to fill existing
canals. Where is the increasing supply to come from ? It
can only come by the storage of flood waters. Is it to be
stored by private enterprise ? If so, it will strengthen and
entrench the principle of private water monopoly in Cali-
fornia. Furthermore, even this dangerous method of get-
ting our lands watered is a remote possibility, since irriga-
tion is much too slow in its returns to tempt investment in
a large way.
There is but one remedy. It is the remedy of Italy,
Prance and Spain ; the remedy of India, Egypt, Australia,
and Canada. That remedy is a comprehensive system of
public works.
There are two classes of arid land in California —
public and private land. The former is remote from rail-
ways, mostly east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We
now look hopefully to the government to store the flood
waters essential to the irrigation of these public lands.
And let it be remembered that this policy will be the
nation's endorsement of the proposition for public irriga-
tion works. But no one expects the nation to water our
millions of acres of private land. How, then, shall it be
done ? It can only be accomplished by public works built
by the State. They must be paid for by direct taxation,
which should probably be levied upon neighborhoods im-
mediately benefited, but the State itself must vouch for the
securities issued for this purpose and must assume the
burden of administration. We have tried local districts
with local management and they have failed. But the
great principle underlying public works and the attachment
of the water-right to the soil is vindicated by centuries of
experience in foreign lands, as it is also vindicated in the
successful experience of our own race in Australia.
Therefore, the second item in a program for California
would be this :
^W LAND OF SUNSHIN£.
Public irrigatum woris — construcUd by the nation ivken
public lands are to be watered^ and by the State when frivnte
lands are to be watered.
to GIVE THB PEOPI«S ACCESS TO THE LAND.
California cannot be a sTi'^at State in the full sense of
the term until it solves the problem of g'iving' the masses
of men easy access to the soil. What now stands in the
way of this result ? First, the fact that many of the
richest localities are held in large private estates dating:
back to the Spanish sfrants or to the time when such hold-
ings were easily consolidated under the loose land laws of
the United States. Second, to the fact that when private
lands are offered for sale they are generally held at a price
which precludes their acquirement by men of small means;
or, when they may be cheaply had, that they are quickly
taken up for speculation in large areas.
These facts are notorious. Consider two typical in-
stances.
There is the splendid Bidwell estate in the Sacramento
Valley, near Chico. Here is one of the grandest tracts of
land in the State. Greneral Bidwell bought it for a trifling
sum half a century ago. He farmed it upon a large scale
in grain, but planted extensive orchards and vineyards,
also. He loved it so well that he would not sell a foot of
it. He was the lord of a little kingdom, with fertile bottom
land, woods and upland, streams and mountains. In the
midst of this paradise he built a stately home. But in the
end the enterprise was not a financial success and the losses
of many years left it heavily encumbered. Since its owner's
death a portion of it has been subdivided and offered for
sale at prices ranging from $50 to $150 per acre. It is well
worth the price if any land is worth it, but when the
pecuniary resources of the landless class of the United
States are considered, the price is seen to be practically
prohibitory.
The result of having this estate owned by one man is
found to be this : During Bidwell's lifetime the growth of
Chico and the Sacramento Valley was hindered by the
existence of this great holding. When the General died,
the property was offered at a price reasonable enough, all
20TH CENTURY WEST, 493
things considered, and yet beyond the reach of those who need
homes.
Take a different instance, where equally good land, enjoying
the very best water supply in the State, is offered at a low price.
Such is the case on the Colorado Delta. Land and water are
sold at $20 an acre, though a year ago they could be had at
$5.75. The prices were gradually raised to the present terms.
Over 100,000 acres have been taken up at an average price
probably not exceeding $10 per acre. A very large proportion
of it went not to homeseekers, but to speculators who expect to
make large profits from real homeseekers later on. It does not
follow that the managers of the enterprise or the speculators
are open to blame. The fault resides in the system.
The fact is that the masses of men crowded into the cities
East and West cannot get easy access to the soil under present
conditions. The loss resulting from this fact is not merely the
loss of those who would like to acquire homes. It is the loss
of railroads, banks, and merchants. It is the loss of entire
local communities, of the State, and of the nation. It is the
loss of the race and the loss of civilization.
Is there any reasonable way in which these large estates
may be opened to the public without injustice to their present
owners and on such terms as the mass of men can accept ? Is
there any practical method by which the forestalling of actual
settlers on cheap public lands may be prevented? If it be pos-
sible to answer these questions affirmatively it would mean a
tremendous gain for California and the world.
The first thing that we need to learn in dealing with the
subject is that we of California do not know everything. We
have not all the wisdom and valuable experience. Other men
in other lands have dealt with the same problem. It is just
possible that we may learn something from them.
New Zealand is, perhaps, the most progressive country in
the world. Years ago its people were so anxious to interest
capital and settlers in that far island that they threw open their
natural wealth of land and waters on the easiest terms. The
result was that the best land and most valuable river-fronts
were quickly taken up as the foundation of great estates. By
the end of a generation it was found that if New Zealand
^^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
was ever to become the home of large numbers of small farm-
ers,— ^if the surplus town population was ever to have the op-
portunity to swarm upon the soil, — ^it would be necessary to
adopt some entirely new principles in legislation and admin-
istration.
What did New Zealand do? It decided to acquire the great
estates gradually by purchase. Generally their owners were
not unwilling to exchange their property for government
bonds, since large holdings are seldom profitable when con-
sidered over a period of years. So it happened that more
property was offered the government than it has thus far
cared to buy. But sometimes particular properties have been
desired which the owners were unwilling to part with. Then
the government condemned them and took them for just com-
pensation. The New Zealanders have a shrewd way of hand-
ling such matters. They assess property for taxation at what
they consider its real value. They then provide that if the
owner complains of exorbitant valuation the State may pur-
chase the property at that price, plus ten per cent. Hence,
the landowner bears his full burden of taxation or sells his
property to the State.
Having acquired these lands what does the State do with
them ? It provides them with necessary public improvements,
such as roads, bridges, and canals, and then proceeds to sub-
divide them for small farms with convenient village centers.
This done, it opens them to settlement under a plan which
brings them within easy reach of the masses of the people.
The little farms are not sold, but leased in a way that is
equivalent to ownership. The leases are for 999 years. Why
are they are not sold outright? For two reasons. First, be-
cause that means that they would be mortgaged, sold, and
finally consolidated again into great estates. This is the his-
tory of the world. For instance, look at the thousands of
acres which have passed to banks in California. The second
reason is that the State considers it good public policy to dic-
tate the size of farms, the character of improvements, and the
manner in which they shall pass from one proprietor to an-
other.
Upon what terms do the people get these lands? They
pay no purchase price and are thus able to use all their little
20TH CENTURY WEST. 495
capital for improvements and to sustain themselves until their
places come into bearing. They lease them at five per cent
on the cost to the State. Thus if the land and improvements
cost the State $30 an acre the settler pays an annual rent of
$1.50, or $15 a year for ten acres, including the advantages
of public improvements. If the cost be $50 an acre the rent
is $2.50 ; if $100 an acre, the rent is $5.00. Few men are so
poor that they cannot get land enough to sustain their families
on these favorable terms.
The first great advantage of the New Zealand plan is that
It kills land monopoly. The second, that it kills land specu-
lation. The third, that it throws wide open the door of op-
portunity to millions of people possessing very moderate
means. The fourth, that by encouraging rapid settlement it
benefits railroads, banks, merchants, — every element in the
community. The adoption of these plans here would make
California indeed the paradise of the common people and the
Mecca of homeseekers from all parts of the world.
Therefore, the third item in a program for California would
be this:
To adopt the New Zealand method of purchasing, improv-
ing, and leasing the great estates as a means of giving the
masses of men easy access to the soil.
ABOLISH DISASTROUS STRIKES IfOREVER.
The recent strike in San Francisco is a blot on the history
of California. Thousands of men were idle for weeks. The
children of some of them no doubt suflFered the pangs of hun-
ger. Assaults were committed and blood was shed. Ships
lay idle in the harbor while people suffered for their unloaded
cargoes. The evil consequences were not confined to the em-
ployers and workmen immediately involved, nor even to the
city in which they lived. All the economic elements which go
to make up the industrial life of the State are interdependent.
When the grain-ship lies idle in the stream the wheat must
remain on the wharf. Tfiat means that ranches far remote
from the scene of the strike cannot sell their product. And
that fact means further that the farmer cannot pay his bills
to the storekeeper, nor the storekeeper settle with the whole-
sale merchant or the bank. The result is general business
paralysis and widespread suffering. In the meantime, capital
♦^ LAND OF SUNSHINE.
and labor stand face to face with no means of settling their
differences except by actual force. The strike must go on until
the employer is confronted with loss and ultimate ruin or until
his workmen are starved into submission. And that is bar-
barism.
Have a few employers and workingmen in San Francisco
any moral right to imperil the welfare of the entire State
whenever they happen to have a disagreement among them-
selves? Have they a moral right even to inflict wanton injury
upon their own families? If so, why do we restrain men
from committing suicide? Why do we compel them to sup-
port their wives and children? Why do we do anything to
subserve the common good ?
New Zealand is happy and prosperous as "the land without
strikes." It has a system of compulsory arbitration. It would
have been impossible for the San Francisco strike to have
occurred at Wellington, Dunedin or Christchurch.
In California we have compulsory arbitration about every-
thing else but leave the most important disputes to be settled
by those two grim arbiters, the Depleted Bank Account and
the Empty Stomach. When two men disagree about a matter
of five dollars, or a matter of boundary lines between their
back yards, either can bring the other into court and compel
him to submit the matter to compulsory arbitration. But
when one hundred employers have a disagreement with ten
thousand workmen about a matter which involves the welfare
of fifty thousand men, women and children directly, and of a
million and a half people indirectly, we stand impotent and
helpless in the face of the emergency.
Such a condition of affairs amounts to an indictment of
our intelligence, of our patriotism, of our Christianity. The
details of the New Zealand plan will be published in this de-
partment later. In the meantime, the need of such a sensible
and statesmanlike solution of the constantly-recurring labor
troubles in our principal cities makes it plain that the fourth
item in a program for California should be this:
To adopt the New Zealand system of compulsory arbitration
for the settlement of all disputes between capital and labor.
DEVELOP THE POSSIBIUTIES O^ CO-OPERATION.
Naturally and almost imperceptibly, in logical response to
20TH CENTURY WEST. 497
its economic necessities, California has entered in the last few
years upon the practice of commercial co-operation. A large
proportion of its enormous fruit output is controlled by ex-
changes organized and conducted by producers. Co-operative
stores and creameries are spreading throughout the State. The
famous Rochdale system maintains a wholesale department at
San Francisco.
It is already plain that co-operation is to be the most vital
force in our future economic life, but it must go much further
than it has yet done and it must be supported by the public
opinion. One of the great unsettled questions of California is
the question of markets. The problem is to extend the demand
for California products and to have those products handled
as economically as possible, so that the largest share of profits
may find its way into the pockets of the actual producers. This
problem will become more urgent as settlement and production
increase. Closely related to the problem of selling advantage-
ously is the problem of buying necessary supplies as cheaply
as possible. "A penny saved is a penny earned.'' Hence, co-
operative buying is just as important as co-operative selling.
In many foreign countries the cultivation of co-operative
methods in industry is considered as much a concern of gov-
ernment as the oversight of banking and insurance business
is in this State. In Holland, Belgium, and other countries the
common prosperity has been wonderfully increased by these
methods. In Ireland the whole face of industry has been
changed. The reorganization of English agriculture on the
same basis is now under careful consideration.
It should be the policy of California to encourage the study
of co-operation as one of the most important means of increas-
ing its prosperity. The whole influence of the State should
be thrown upon that side. The university should take up the
matter as a legitimate and very practical part of the economic
training supplied to its students. We must have in the future
a great body of trained co-operators to assist our producers
in buying, selling, and manufacturing upon scientific lines.
The fifth item in a program for California should be this :
To encourage the extension of co-operative methods
throughout the industrial life of the State for the purpose of
widening the California market, at home and abroad, and of
498 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
effecting the utmost economy in sale of products and purchase
of supplies.
TO MAKE THE IDEAL A REALITY.
Such is the program for California which this magazine will
take up for elaborate discussion during the next twelve
months. In doing so it will furnish the fullest exposition of
the material resources and of the social and economic life of
our great Pacific commonwealth which has ever been made in
any single publication. The subject will be considered from
the standpoint of many different localities and from the point
of view of many different men. The treatment of the matter
will not take the tone of special pleading. We believe all the
features of this program are well adapted to the peculiar con-
ditions of California and most other Western States, but there
are many persons of great intelligence and undoubted sincerity
who will think otherwise. There are men who believe the
riparian right a sacred thing which must not be disturbed.
There are those who prefer competition to co-operation, those
who think private ownership of water is superior to public
control, and those who would regard the compulsory settle-
ment of labor disputes as a dangerous invasion of individual
rights.
Those holding views in utter opposition to our convictions
— ^thc best and ablest of them, too, — will be invited to antago-
nize every feature of this program for California and to do
it in these pages. We believe the truth can stand the light.
And if what seems to us like the truth be error instead, then
God forbid that we should mislead a single soul into sup-
porting it.
But our position has been carefully considered. We do not
believe it can be shaken by all the forces that are proverbially
opposed to change of any sort. We expect to see it emerge
from the fires of discussion stronger and clearer than it goes
in — the invincible and unanswerable program for the making-
of a great State from the raw materials of California. So
believing, we propose to fight for it, to offer it to the people
as the solution of existing social stagnation and econmic evils,
and to lend all the aid in our power to the development of an
earnest, aggressive movement in its support.
William E. Smythe.
499
The Proposed Reforms.
CONCLUSIONS OF THE GOVERNMENT EXPERTS.
The specific recommendations for the reform of the Cal-
ifornia water laws submitted by the nine experts who pre-
pared the government report on the subject are as follows :
i<
1. There shotild be created in California a special tribunal entitled
The Board of Control of Waters," which shall have the determi-
nation of existing- water rights and the control of the establishment
of rights hereafter. This board shall consist of one attorney, one
business man and one civil engineer, all of good character and estab-
lished reputation, to be selected and appointed by the Supreme Court
of the State and to hold office until removed for cause. The salary
of this board should not be less than $3,000 per annum each, and they
should be allowed a clerk at a salary of $1800 per annum, to be ap-
pointed by the board.
2. There should be an executive officer of the board, appointed by
them, who should be a competent, experienced civil engineer and
have supreme control over the administration of the water supply
and its distribution to the parties entitled to its use. The title of the
officer should be *' State hydraulic engineer."
3. The State legislature should by statute declare that the com-
mon-law doctrine of riparian rights is inapplicable to the prevailing
conditions in California, except so far as to make riparian owners on
streams preferred users of the natural stream flow for domestic and
stock purposes.
4. The statutes of California passed for the government of the
appropriation of streams shaU declare that all unappropriated
waters not utilized for irrigation at the date of the passage of the
act, either by canals or reservoirs, are public property, and all irri-
gation rights to be established hereafter shall be attached to the
land for which the appropriation is made. The volume permitted to
be appropriated should in all cases be limited to the actual necessi-
ties of economical use, to be determined from time to time by the
State hydraulic engineer. Priority of use should give the better
right as between parties using water for the same purpose.
5. There should be entire harmony and cooperation between the
State and national governments, looking to the fullest possible use
of the waters of the State for irrigation, particularly in all cases
where the diversion of water from the streams may tend to render
navigable streams non-navigable. To accomplish this purpose the
national government should take measures for canalizing the rivers
and making slackwater navig-ation on the streams, thus giving
maximum navigability with minimum use of water. A wise adjust-
ment and determination of the volume which can be safely taken
from the tributaries of navigable streams for irrigation without in-
SCO LAND OF SUNSHINE.
terfering' with tke aUckwB.ter naTi^tion ahonld be nrgvd upon the
national eroTemment as an argent necesuty.
6. The 'work of the national government in promoting- irrigation
(ICTelopment, in addition to the improvement of narigatioti, sbonU
also inclnde the fullest protection of the forests, constmction of
storag-e reservoirs for impounding water to be used on the pnblic
lands, and a continaation of the hydrograpbic and topographic work
of the Geological Survey and the work of the Department of Agri-
caltnre for the promotion of economic methods of irrigation.
7. National aid in constructing storage works to be used for pri-
vate lands should be discouraged, although cases might occur where
reservoirs built to serve public lands would also be serviceable to
adjacent lands in private ownership that had once been owned by the
United States. In such cases the use of reservoired water for private
lands should not be prohibited.
8. The use of water for domestic purposes should take precedence
over all other uses. The use of water for the production of power
applied to the pumping of water for domestic purposes and irriga-
tion should be recognized as oext in right. In those sections of the
State where mining is the prevailing industry, mining rights to
water should also take precedence over all other uses, domestic use
alone excepted.
9. The Governor of the State should be asked to appoint an er-
pert nonpartisan commission to frame an irrigation law or laws
which should fit and adapt the foregoing recommendations to the
State constitution and present the results in the form that they
should be passed by the State Legislature.
10. The State Board of Control should be intrusted with the
power and duty of fixing equitable rates for the sale of water for
irrigation by private reservoir and canal companies, as well as for
-the sale of water rights.
Saunterincs at Idyllwild
no bnrry abont anytbiaE in tbs sDlversal world.— Geo. Euot.
gRjrtODAY there is rain and mists quite obscure the mountains,
^^1 but the nearby pines and oaks in shades of orang'e, russet and
* green look fair and fresh from my tent door. The rush of
the little stream is clear through the open silence and nature
is restfully renevring' her wonderful life. Tomorrow when the sun
bursts over the range, the glories of these colors and the intense blue
of the sky may seem almost garish in contrast with this gray day.
After one rests, the first wide outlook dispels all memories of the
" Tub PiCTcrREsoDE Samatokidu." Pboto. bf Antolnetic Wi]
dusty stage ride from San Jacinto and gives the salient points of this
charming spot.
On the northeast rises Tauquitz Peak and just below lies Lily
Rock. With a cultivated imagination it is easy to evolve a bowed
and cowled bead from these white out-jutting rocks, and to call this
point " The Weeping Monk." Mt. San Jacinto is quite shut out from
dwellers in the valley, but all hear epic lays of rugged trail through
flower-decked mountain-locked valleys, the steep ascent, the sheer
perpendicular walls from which are seen the vast stretches of the
Colorado desert. Three days suffice for this gypsy-like excursion
through delighful wind-swept solitudes with nightly camp fire and
homely camp fare. Is this not what John Muir has called the joy
of life?
On the west, low-shouldered hills are lying, and here from Insfura-
tion Point the outlook into the wide valley is superb. Sheltered on
the west by the Coast range, this broad valley cradles its children in
504 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
nanuth and sunahine, while they in their turn embrace their way*
ward nestlingrs, the crowding: foothills.
Yonder, behind that great saddle-backed mountain, lies the home
of Modjeaka. Awaj to the northwest is shadowy, misty Mt. San
Antonio. In the afternoon light. Lake Blsinore Bhittes resplendent,
and later is lost in the soft, blue, all-enfolding- haze.
Standing- here, the murmur of water comes clearly, distinctly, to
the ears. Just a fen steps to the left a rough path over smooth and
slippery boulders leads into the heart of Coldwater Canon, the
favorite jaunting spot of -the whole valley.
Another incture long to be remembered is that from Tauquitz Peak.
This trail, winding throngh open spaces between tall yellow pines
and graceful oaks, through buckthorn, lilac and manzanita thickets,
by painter's brush, aster and fragrant pennyroyal, ever higher and
ever widening in view, is like a jewel in the morning. Up past the
" Thb Suiw-MovlNb OxKK OF TUB LoaoBRS." Phuto. by D. S. Mer
the slow-moving oxen of the loggers, where chaparral grows low
and lower still, where gnarled storm-swept cedars stretch protect-
ingly over the way, then to turn and find the wide open beneath is a
joy indeed. On one side lies the desert softly gray, and there in the
broad sunlight are the little hamlets of San Jacinto and Hemet. like
faintly traced rectangles and square. Nearer and more distinct are
the winding courses ot the erstwhile torrent beds, and ranches
marked by clustering trees. Over all the bright foreground and far
blue perspective lies a lofty and unbroken silence.
A frost-touched morning and stout walking boots are much to be
desired for a ramble in Lily Caiion. There in midsummer swayed
yellow bells of Lilium Parryi and starry clusters of wild azalea.
Down in the rank growth by the water's edge were fragrant hedges
of the wild rose. With the feathery fronds of the Woodward! a fern
SAUNTERfNGS AT IDYLLWILD. SOS
grew nodding columbine and scarlet monkej-flowcr. Now the touch
of King- Midas leads color to the green solitude, and gorgeous golden
oaks, the vivid yellows of the willow, and softer tones of the wild
current bring- sunshine into the shady places. All is silent here save
the fall of water, the swift movement of lixard or ground squirrel,
the faint call of a bird, yet the camp with its bustle and stir is not a
half mile awaj.
Nearer the picturesque sanatorium with its gaj company of tents,
lie golf links, a tennis court, and grounds for croquet. Farther on
past the links, through sweet-scented bracken runs the laughing<
hurrying stream. Just here, where the road crosses the shallows'
alders crowd with smooth while trunks — the leaves a delicate tracery
against the sky. Here willows bend, tangles of clematis wave and
"Thb PiCTUMBiiouB Sanatoriou." Photo. by Anioineiie Wll
late scarlet penstemon and fuchsia still fringe the way. This, as welt
as every other out-going, is gladdened by the birds. That distant
tap, tap, is from the carpenter woodpecker with his saucy red cap
and yet more saucy ways, Of the trees, the yellow pine knows him
best, for in its bark he bores innumerable holes for storing acorns.
Stellar's crested jay, the Western bluebird with ruaty-red breast.
Brewer's blackbird, Anna's hummer, the slender-billed nuthatch,
the mountain chickadee are all most familiar. To the lover of burro
rides,this rocky turn of the road, the gleam of richly reddened cherries,
the great uprooted pines on either side are guides making the begin-
ning of a beautiful, yet rather difficult, trail leading into a nameless
cafion just across from Lily Kock. The charm of this caiion is moat
potent ; for its lovers inevitably return and the temptation to linger
there is strong. After the deep-breathing hour of climbing, beds of
jrine needles bring the longing for a lazy half-awake siesta, lying
prone in the warm sunlight, fanned by soft air heavily laden here
with odors of cedar and balsam fir.
S06 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
Two red-letter dajn a.re those which mark the rides to Pine Flats
and Strawberry Hill. 'Tis a wild, rough trail to the lonely little
valley— past huge, moaay boulders, down into bracken-filled dells,
across the tiny thread of a stream, up the soft leaf -cushioned
knolls and out into the light with the flats below. To Straw^-
l)erry Hill the road winds smoothly along. Here Coulter pin«s
are burdened with giant cones beaded and glistening;. Sugar pines
swing long, light pendants from the extreme tips of their highest
branches, and all frame distant vistas of mountain and valley. The
little climb to Sunset Rock is preliminary training for the longer
excursions and as such it has its place. The long drives to Hemet
dam and lake, together with the detour to Thomas' ranch are inter-
esting in their own way. The big dam holds thirty-seven thousand
acre -fee t^t hat is, it would cover thirty-seven thousand acresone foot
When night falls on Idyllwild, it is rarely beautiful. First come
the after-gtow with its clear, cold tints, then the deepening dusk
with its black silhouettes of leafless pines stretching bare arms
as if in benison. The early lights of Venus and Jupiter gleam low
in the west ; and when hours are " wee and sma" Orion mounts
high and shines glowing, scintillating, above the sleeping valley —
the valley that still dreams of the days when it sheltered Ramona
and Alessandro.
In Tropic America.
Jp^ F late years, as capital has
ImA increased in tb« United
^-^ States, add rates of inter-
est have lessened, the
eyes of many American inves-
tors have been turned to the rich
and prom i sing' fields for invest-
ment to the south of us, in the
Spanish -speaking republics of
Mexico and Central America.
It is not strange that this
should be so. but rather that the
enterprising Yankees, who have
been reaching out alt over the .
world in their quest for the al-.
* CoBTA RiCAK Home. mighty dollar, should so long
have overlooked these compara-
3 rich in natural resources, nhich are
1 continent. Of late quite a number of
Los Angeles people have become interested in enterprises of various
kinds in the Spanish -American countries t>etween the United States
line and the Isthmus. It is not difficult to foresee a time when Los
Angeles may become headquarters for American investments in
those countries. Geographically, the city is within a little more
than a hnndred miles of the Mexican line, and Spanish is widely
spoken in Southern California, so that it is quite natural for our
capitalists to extend their operations in that direction.
Among the Spanish -American countries which have been attract-
ing special attention of late is Costa Kica, a land that is known to
few Americans, except by name. It is a smalt country, as we are
accustomed to estimate size, embracing an area of 23,000 miles, or
rather less than that of West Virginia. The present population of the
country is estimated at about 300,000, or less than 15 to the square
mile. Liike California, only still more so, it is a land of great cli-
matic contrasts. The country is divided into three zones, the hot
lands, in the low region, extending from the seashore to an elevation
of about 3,000 feet, where the mean annual temperature varies from
72 to 82 degrees, the temperate lands, extending to an altitude of .
7,500 feet, and the /terras /rias, or cold lands, lying between that ele-
vation and the summit of the mountains. Here the difference be-
tween the temperature of day and night is keenly felt. The ground
is sometimes covered with white frost in the morning, but snow is
extremely rare. The temperate zone possesses a climate of wonder- '
ful salubrity. The land is well watered and very fertile, and the.
landscape is a succession of lovely tropical scenes. The mean an-
nual temperature in this section varies from 57 degrees to 68 degrees.
As in California, there are in the high altitudes two seasons, the dry
innttratloa* tbrouvta con [teg; of Itae Coflta Rica Drtelopment Co.
«» LAND OF SUNSHINE.
and the rainj. It usually raina there from Maj to Movember oa the
Pacific side, but on the Atlantic coast the reverse is the mle.
Costa Rica poBsessea an enviable gvograpbicat location, with its
long line of sea coast on both oceans, affordinff many fine harbors
within easy reach of the great markets of the United States, With
the completion of the Nicaragua canal, n-tiich will extend along th«
northern boundary of the country, the ships of the world will be
brought to her ports and the value of land, which is at present ab-
surdly low, in proportion to the value of the products, will inevi-
tably increase greatly.
The natives of Costa Rica are a umple, kindly people, who arc
satisfied with little, leading a contented life and having few ambi-
tions. The materials for their dwellings are cnt in the forests.
IN TROPIC AMERICA. «»
They have little need for clothing-, and nature provides them with
ao abundance of food. Under American overseers they make good
laborers. Plantation hands are paid from 50 to 75 cents per day in
gold.
The principal products of the soil in Costa Kica are rubber, cacao,
bananas, vanilla, pineapples, oranges, lemona and coffee. Kemark-
sble stories are told of the big profits earned by the few enterprising
Americana who have gone into the culture of these products, in a
business-like way. The profits per acre, after the first few years,
are said to range from SlOO to $600.
Of these products, by far the most profitable is rubber. Knbber is
one of the few articles of universal consumption for which no auc'
cessfnl substitute has yet been discovered. When the late CoUia P.
Huntington— -one of the shrewdest businesa men that the United
States has produced — was asked what he would do to make a fortune,
if he were a young man, he replied that he would go into the rubber
business in Africa. The rubber grown in Costa Rica is superior to
that grown in Africa, and it ia an interesting fact that seeds of the
rubber tree were recently shipped from Costa Rica to the Dark Con-
tinent. The world's supply of rubber has hitherto been derived from
wild trees. Owing to the steadily increasing demand, entire forests
have been ruthlessly destroyed by the natives, so that the world's
supply was threatened. Thia led a fen far-sighted men to experi-
ment with the artificial growth of the tree, in section)) where it ia
indigenoUB, and the results have been excedingly encouraging, es-
pecially in Costa Rica, where the soil and climate appear to t>e better
LAND OPF SUNSHINE.
> the growth of this
n any other section, *rith
|sible exception of the
long the Amaaon, in
South America. Another ad-
vantage which Coata Rica has in
the production of rublwr ia that
the tree begias to yield a.t an
early agre. Along the Amazon
the trees do not begin to yield
until they are from 12 to 15
years old, and even then produce
only a small quantity, whereas
the Coata Kica variety of mbt>er
tree, in a suitable location, at-
tains a diameter of from 12 to 15
inches in six to eight years,
when its production will averagie
three pounds of commercial rut>-
ber, worth 75 cents per pound on
the spot. A conservative esti-
mate of the net profit from each
tree is said to be one dollar, and
2O0 trecH are planted to the acre.
A Spanish -American writersums
up the argimentB in favor of
rubt>er cultivation as follows:
Tbe WA^fgWiLD Rdbbbm Tiibk.1 There is a shortage in the sup-
ply, which will continue, ^hile
the demand for rublier is increasing at an accelerating rate. New
uses for rubber are discovered almost daily. Prices have been ad-
IN TROPIC AMERICA. 511
vaucing for the past ten years. The trees are easily cultivated, and
the profits are as large and ^wftain as from any known business.
Another profitable tree in Costa Rica is the cacao, from the bean
of which cocoa is made. Owing to the similarity of name, some
people have an idea that cocoa is derived in some way from the
cocoanut tree. The cacao tree has the size and general appearance
of the peach tree, with a thick growth of poda extending directly out
from its body. The beans are ground up, refined and sweetened, by
a simple process. The cacao tree begins to produce pods at the age
of three or four years, and at five years of age is in full bearing.
So great is the demand for this product that agents are always ready
Gatherinc Cacao Podb.
to buy the crop on the trees. Profits are reported to run from $150
to $300 per acre, after the trees are in full bearing. Rubber and
cacao trees thrive best at an elevation of 100 to 700 feet, but will
grow as high up as 1,500 feet above sea-level.
It is not surprising that, in view of these alluring opportunities,
many Americans should be casting longing eyes at the Spanish-
speaking republics of Central America, through which Uncle Sam
expects soon to construct his big waterway. It is not improtiable
that the next decade may witness a peaceful conquest of that section
by the irrepressible Yankee.
\
Raymond Villa Tract.
A PmHwmcT Place rvm HoMts.
igJjMHBKE are probably no other cities anywhere to which so lar^
^*'j a part of their citizens have come mainly because they pre-
* ferred to live there, as l<os Angetes and Pasadena.
Their peculiar drawing- power has been the rare combination of an
almost perfect climate with the educational, social and commercial
advantag-es of a progressive modern city.
Now people for whom a delightful home has been the prime factor
in deciding where they shall pitch their tents are apt to pick prettj
carefully the exact spot to drive the pegs. Considering the great
tide of home-builders that has been steadily pouring into Los An-
geles all these years one might fairly suppose that the choicest loca-
tions would all have been occupied before this time, and that later
comers must make shift with something distinctly less than the best.
Natural as this conclusion seems, it would be a mistake. There are
still to be had, within easy distance of the center of E<ob Angeles,
many home sites as beautiful, attractive, convenient, and wholly
desirable as heart could wish.
No better evidence is needed to make good this assertion than the
facts concerning the Raymond Villa Tract. Here, in a single body,
as close to the heart of Los Angeles (measuring by the time it takes
to get there) as some of the most beautiful and favored residence por-
tions of that city, right on the edge of charming Pasadena — "The
Crown of the Valley "^surrounded by inspiring scenery, lies a.
broad expanse, offering ample room for some hundreds of homes.
Today it lies open and ready for settlement, and yet surrounded
by beautiful modern houses, magnificent hotels, orange groves and
WhbKE IiOVBLV BOHES WlU. RiSB.
514 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
flower g'ardcas, with shade treea, beautiful streets and avenues al-
ready traversed daily by tourists and pleasure seekers by the huu'
dreds, as the most enchanting: and agreeable spot for driviag- and
picknickiag^ par-
ties. It takes no
gift of prophetic
vision to see it in
the near future a
great park of
flowers and lawns
and shrubbery —
the fit setting: for
the dwelling-
places that are
sure to rise upon
Does this seem
over-enthusiastic?
Consider, tben, a
closely pruned
statement of the
bare facts con-
cemiDK it.
The Raymond
Villa Tract con-
sists of some two hundred acres of gently sloping land in
the eastern part of the valley of South Pasadena. It was
originally part of the San Pasqual Rancho, but has been
owned for many years by the Raymond Improvement Co., which
has, up to this time, preferred not to press the sale of building sites
upon it. Now, however, the construction, right through the property,
of the new "short line" of the Los Angeles and Pasadena electric road,
the erection of the magnificent Hotel Raymond immediately adjoin-
ing it, and the pressure of eager home-seekers, have made the time
seem ripe for devoting the tract to the needs for which it is so plainly
destined and dividing into plots suitable for building purposes.
To the hotels, " shopping," and business districts of Los Angeles,
the running time of the electric cars will be twenty-five minutes.
The business centers of Pasadena will be fess than ten minutes away
by the same route. No part of the tract is at a greater distance from
the electric line than can be covered in five minutes' brisk walk.
The officials of the road expect to start regular service over it, at
few-minute intervals, early in January. The service on the older
routes of this line, in respect of comfort of cars, courtesy of em-
ployes and genuine effort to accommodate its patrons has been for
years up to a high standard — a guarantee of what the service on this
new express line will be.
The average elevation of the tract above sea-level is some 62S feet,
or nearly double that of the more cloaeIy-built-«p parts of Loa
Angeles. The air, of course, is wholly free from the smoke and other
impurities inseparable from large cities. Partly on account of the
ranges of hills between it and the ocean, and partly on account of dis-
RAYMOND VILLA TRACT. 515
tance and elevation, fog is comparatively rare on this tract, yet it
gets its full share of the stimulating and refreshing breezes that
liven up the summer days. Frost hardly ever nips the most delicate
little home plot, one may Sthhets *nn avenues
gather, if he chooses, "" R*vmusi> villa Tract.
green peas in January, and strawberries almost any month in the
year. As for roses, one need only meiilion the fact that the Pasa-
dena "Tournament of Roses" is held aach year on New Year's
Day. One of the famous rose-bushes even of Pasadena, counting
its blooms in the season literally by hundreds of thousands, is the
"Gold of Ophir" on the Merwin place, juat across the boundary
line of the Raymond Villa tract.
RaVHONIi VltLA Tkact Ho»i
RAYMOND VILLA TRACT 517
The scenic viens from any part of the property are superb. To
the North, and only a few miles away, looms the ^reat front-wall of
the Sierra Madre range, stretcbinK away as far as the eye can reach,
and often gleaming- with snow In winter far down its shoulders. In
the eastern distance the lofty peaks of San Antonio. San Bernardino.
San Jacinto and San Gorg^onio tower above the orange groves closer
by. At the South, a picturesquely broken line of hills adds variety,
while westward, beyond the quiet village and the abrupt descent
into the Arroyo Seco, rise yet other hills. Truly a series of pictures
on which the eye may linger long, and to which it may return day
after day without tiring. Yet if one wishes an even greater variety
of scene or a. total change of atmosphere, both may be had in very
short time and at trifling cost. Little more than an hour's ride on
the " trolley" will convey him to the seashore at Santa Monica, while
in about the same time a similar conveyance will land him at the
Alpine Tavern, near the summit of Mount Lowe.
An excellent and sufficient water-supply, good natural drainage.
V RAVHOKD VIU.A Tut
518 LAND OF SUNSHINE.
unsurpaaaed gfenera.) aaiiita.rj conditioas, broad and well-shaded
streets, and connections for electric lighting and telephone service
— all these go to round out the requirements of a flawless residence
section. Furthermore, clauses in each deed will prevent intoxicatinfr
liquors from ever being made or sold on the tract, will bar the en-
trance of factories, shops, livery -a tables or anything else which
might mar the character of the neighborhood, will establish build-
ing-lines, and will set a limit t>elow which the cost of a house ^Ul
not be allowed to fall. That is tosay, the whole tract will be strictly-
devoted to homes, and every precaution will be taken to make
all the surroundings congenial and agreeable.
One of the most important points concerning this property — the
pocket-nerve being admittedly among the most sensitive anatomical
features oE mankind — can barely be mentioned here. This is not
the place for figures as to the cost of building sites ; but it may be
stated generally that prices for the present are act at a very low-
mark. The coat of a single lot in some parts of Loa Angeles no
closer to the city's center by the time measure, and certainly no whit
superior in respect of natural advantages, will buy an acre here ; or
the cost of the lot alone there will pay for the lot and build the house
here. Besides this, further special concessions will be made for a
time to those who build at once. It is not to be expected that prices
will remain long at this low level, and whether for investment or
for immediate occupancy, just now is a good time to look into the
The sale and managementlof the Raymond Villa Tract is in the
handsof The S. W. Pergusson Co., from whose office at No. 224W.
Fourth street, Lios Angeles, any desired information can be obtained
on request, either in person or by letter.
Ra>^inond Villa Tract.
Is believed by its owners to be the best property now offered to homeseekers in
Southern California. Following is a brief summary of the facts about it :
Location »
Raymond Vii^i^a Tract is in South Pasadena, adjoining- the grounds of the
Raymond Hotel on the south.
Surface Character,
Raymond Vii,i,a Tract is from 600 feet to 700 feet above sea-level. There is
sufficient gentle slope to assure perfect drainage ; but the surface is so nearly
level that no costly grading will be required in preparing home sites. Some of
the streets and avenues are already shaded by large pepper-trees ; on others no
shade trees have been planted, leaving the future owner to make his own choice.
Surroundings.
Raymond Villa Tract has for neighbors : On the north, the Raymond Hotel,
with its beautiful grounds and golf links ; on the east and south, elegant homes,
set among orange groves, palms, roses, and a bewildering wealth of shrubs and
vines ; on the west, the pleasant village of South Pasadena.
Ctimate,
Raymond Villa Tract has no harsh winds, practically no frost, rarely any
fog, and a dry and balmy atmosphere nearly every day in the year. In Southern
California ** Climate is King" — ^and this very spot is the heart of its kingdom.
Transportation,
Raymond Villa Tract will have, within 60 days, the best electric line in the
United States in full operation, connecting it with L/OS Angeles and Pasadena.
No part of the tract is more than five minutes walk from the line. Time to
Fourth street, Los Angeles, will be less than 25 minutes, thus bringing this
property closer to the business part of the city than the corner of West Adams
and Twenty-fifth streets.
Watery Sewage, Electric Lights, Telephone,
Raymond Villa Tract is under the operation of a mutual water company ;
every purchaser of property will become part owner in the cheapest, best and
finest and purest water supply in Southern California. The same methods of
disposing of sewage are employed as 'in the West Adams tract, and give full
satisfaction. Electric lights and telephones are already on the property.
Franchise for gas has just been granted.
Improvements .
Raymond Villa Tract now has in progress grading streets, laying sidewalks,
pruning trees, building offices and houses, and otherwise laying the foundation
for beautiful and substantial improvements.
Subdivision,
Raymond Villa Tract is being subdivided into lots of 50 to 65 feet frontage
and 140 to 185 feet deep. Villa sites of an acre or more may also be had.
Restrictions^
Raymond Villa Tract deeds will all contain clauses restricting character and
cost of residences ; preserving a uniform frontage line ; confining business to
certain blocks ; prohibiting entirely the sale of liquor and other objectionable
industries.
Prices and Terms,
Raymond Villa Tract will be sold at prices far below that of any other
property approaching it in advantages. Special terms to those who will build
at once.
Who to See About It,
Raymond Villa Tract is in the hands of
THE S. W. FERGUSSON CO.,
Z2A West Fourth street, Los Angeles.
MISCELLANEOUS
Uf ILL iBvatip or rtiau
" Hf Mrt tf the taiy
t IWtM dKplnioD B_iiUIa>
Bswvtr tf WrWdM
DrjohnWIIiMGIbbs'
THB ONLY
ZANE NOItNX A CO.,
P. O. Box Mas. Phlladslphlii. Fw.
Rtvolvtog Ttinpli-Ctcsp EyiglasMt.
Briuga imtent with Electric
ittAcnmeiit. For -
lomlort nnd cure,
.if the past 100 yeara equals it.
Fit by mail (riiarant«*d. Gond
ealcBmcn mnke great
Excliiaive territory (
Ci^ 321
■r.ILT
lino iHuimiiiL w iwEU.;
ANTVO CO., 4n N Hal
St., LmAdiheIh.
TThte Land of Sunshine
PUBUSHKD MONTHI«Y BY
^Ke Land of SuiiAfilxie PubliAlilzis Co.
( Df COXPOXATBD )
Rooms 5, 7, 9 ; 121>i South Broadway, Los Angeles, Cal., U. 8. A.
HEADS OF DBPARTMSNTS SUBSCRIPTION RATES
£_••• S^V® ' ^"' 5&!?5!i •* * y^r *« ^^ united states, Canada and
Ckab. F. LuMifxs - Editorial Mexico.
OiiAB. ^^ooDT " - ' - " SubscriptSS ^-^^a year to other conatries in the Foetal
Union.
Entered at the Los Ansvles FostoflBce as second-class matter.
A
A Years Output.
S compiled by the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, the lead-
ing products of Southern California for 1900 are estimated
as follows:
Citrus Fruits $8,000,000
Gold and Silver 6,400,000
Petroleum, estimated.... 4,400,000
Borax 1,150,000
Hay 1,000,000
Vegetables and Fruit
consumed 1,500,000
Dried Fruit and Raisins 475,000
Grain 150,000
Canned Goods 825,000
Sugar 1,000,000
Fertilizers 1,000,000
Copper 700,000
Nuts 800,000
Cement, Clay and Brick 651,000
Wine 850,000
Beer 600,000
Butter, estimated $ 500,000
Beans, estimated 1,000,000
Asphaltum 425,000
Eggs, estimated 325,000
Celery, estimated 300,000
Poultry 250,000
Hides 200,000
Fresh Fish 240,000
Canned Fish 115,000
Wool 150,000
Vegetables, exported.... 325,000
Cheese, estimated 120,000
Olives, estimated 100,000
Salt, Mineral Water
and Lead 180,000
Lime 95,000
$33,826,000
The Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce.
The Chamber of Commerce, althoug'h its work is for the public, is a private
corporation, possessing* a membership of business and professional men of I^os
Angeles and Southern California, about one thousand in number. These con-
tribute one dollar per month toward the expense of maintaining the institution.
One of the main features of the organization is to supply information and answer
correspondence relative to the resources and productive features of the southern
portion of the State. It also maintains a free exhibit of natural and manufac-
tured products.
a The following pamphlets, issued by the Chamber, can be had on application at
the office, or will be sent to any address upon receipt of five cents for postag'e :
" Climate and Health ; " ** Petroleum ; " Citrus Fruits ; " " Nuts of Lros Angeles
County '*; "Guide to Los Angeles " ; "City of Pasadena " ; "Riverside County" ;
"Orange County"; "San Diego County"; Santa Barbara County"; "Ven-
tura County"; "Fresno County." Copies of the Annual Special Editions of
the lyos Angeles Times, Herald and Express. " Rain Charts and Temperature
Charts."
Gold Mining with the Gamble Left Out.
tt
Statistics show that of all industrial occupations mining' is the most
profitable. The annual averae^e product or earning- in California, of those
engaged in mining.... is nearly $1,500.*' — Slafe Mineralogists Report f on Sgt.
Everyone knows that investments in gold mining, when fortunately made, are
unequaled in profit-making possibilities ; few realize that when prudently made,
they may be among the most secure and least liable to loss. Yet this is the plain
truth, and may be well illustrated by a brief statement of the facts concerning
the Ekiuitable Mining and Milling Company, of Stockton, and the method by
which it absolutely insures investors in its stock against loss of any part of the
money invested.
In the first place, the Company has been organized along the soundest busine5%
lines, under the wise protective laws of California. Its officers and directors are
conservative, experienced and trustworthy mining and business men, and each of
them owns a substantial block of the stock. Their holdings (aggregating* a con-
trol of the entire capital stock — ^$300,000 at par value) are pooled under an iron-
clad trust agreement, until September, 1907, shutting out any chance that the
management will pass to less tried and able hands, or be used for purposes of
stock manipulation.
The Arbona mine, operated by the Company, is near Tuttletown, Tuolumne
county, and is upon the mighty ** Mother I^ode,'' the immense and unfailing
gold-output of which is known to all the world. The records of mint, expre^^s
companies and banks, up to a recent date, credit this single county with the pro-
duction of more than $215,000,000 in gold, and this figure is certainly under
rather than over the actual product. Immediately adjoining the Arbona to the
northwest, the *' Paterson " has been worked to a depth of 800 feet, and has
yielded well toward a million dollars in gold. One and three-quarter miles to
the southeast lies the famous *'Kawhide." which has made more than one
millionaire.
The development of the Arbona mine during the five years since the present
Company took possession has been mainly directed to gaining depth and putting
the property in condition for large and continuous production. The double-com-
partment shaft is now 621 feet deep, and several levels have been started, some
of which are already in ore, and actual mill-runs prove the ore to be " pay,"
values increasing as depth is gained. Hoisting machinery is ample for double
the present depth. A ten-stamp rapid-drop mill and concentrating plant is fully
equipped, with capacity for treating forty tons of ore daily.
The management at the mine is in the hands of men of long experience and
proved ability, all of whom are interested in the ownership of the mine. Much
of the stock, by the way, is held by mining men of the district in which it is lo-
cated, who have been familiar for years with the property and its manage-
ment.
The purpose for which the Company now desires to raise funds is to put in
power-drills, in order to explore the various levels and open up stoptng-g-round as
rapidly as possible to furnish a continuous supply of ore to the mill. According
to present indications four hundred feet of drifting will accomplish this.
The closest investigation will satisfy any man that the funds of the Company
have been consistently and judiciously applied to the development of the mine ;
that its affairs have been and will be faithfully administered for the best inter-
ests of all the stockholders, and that its managers are in the mining business to
get gold out of the ground — not to make money from sales of stock or speculative
•* stock- jobbing."
The facts already stated are sufficient to place the shares of the Equitable
Mining and Milling Company in the conservative class of mining investments.
But it has recently made such arrangements with the Pacific Coast Underwriting
The AkBONA Gold Mine. Tcoluunb Codntv. Cal.
Company, of San Francisco, as secure the investor beyond peradventure ag-ainst
loss of any part of his principal. Space is lacking- to give full details, but the
practical working- of the plan maybe thus illustrated: The investor of S1,000
(for example) would receive for his money, Rrst, an Investment Certificate of the
Continental Building and Loan Company, of San Francisco (one of the soundest
and strongest institutions of the kind in the United States), guaranteeing abso-
lutely the payment of $1,000 at the end of ten years ; and, second a Stock Coupon
which may be exchanged at any time for 400 shares of stock of the Equitable
Mining and Milling Company. The present selling price of this stock being SI. SO
per share, this is equivalent to a payment of interest in advance for ten years at
the rate of six per cent per annum. This takes no account of any dividends on
the stock during the ten years, nor of the probable great advance in its cash sell-
ing price. Yet the management, owningi the control of the stock, depend en-
tirely for their profits precisely upon such dividends and increased value of
stock. (The directors, by the way, are not on salary.)
Now, right here, is the meat of the matter. The worst that can happen to any
investor under this plan — even if the Mining Company should tail utterly — would
be to lose the interest on his money for a term of years. The principal is secure
in any event. And if the Mining Company is successful, as now seems
assured, the returns will far exceed any that could be obtained by any other form
of investment involving so little risk.
Investments on this plan may be made in sums of $100 and upwards.
In conclusion, it U worth while to quote from a recent publication of the Com-
pany ; " We promise you only what we know we can fulfill, viz : to earnestly
work for success ; to guard your every interest ; to give jou your full share of
the protits ; to protect you absolutely against loss of principal invested in the
Guaranteed Investment Certificates."
It has been entirely impossible in these pages to give the reasons which justify
the managers of this enterprise in their confident expectation of large returns.
Any person desiring further information, including maps and photographs of the
property, can obtain it by addressing the Equitable Mining and Milling Com-
pany, Stockton, California.
MISCELLANEOUS
THE
Pianola
The most wonderful and most
satisfactory Piano-player that is
made. Expression and touch are
controlled by the operator— and
anyone can operate it. Plays any
piano. Attached or detached in
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value of your piano when you
have a Pianola. Come in and
see the wonderful instrument.
THE
Aeolian
Practically a whole orchestra in
itself for the home, and playable
by anyone, irrespective of musical
training. Gives the full orches-
tral effects, such as it is impossi-
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single instrument. Directly un-
der the control of the player,
whether he has or has not any
musical knowledge whatever.
Write us about or come in and
see it.
Southern California Music Co.
2J6-2J8 Ve«t Third Streett
Los Angelest California*
Send Us $3.50
For the finest pair of tan shoes
you ever bought for that price.
FOR WOMEN :
Lacing, Golf and Oxford styles.
FOR MEN:
Lacing and Oxford styles.
They'll wear well, fit well and
give you style and comfort . Send
us an order today.
C. M. Staub Shoe Co.
25S S. Broadway
What is...
"The Photo-
Miniature?"
A monthly magazine of
photographic information ;
not lilce any other photo-
grraphic Journal, but differ-
ent. Every numlier is
complete in itself— tells all
worth the knowing about
one subject at one time,
with dainty illustrations.
No. 28, now ready, tells all
about •• Seashore Photos^,
raphy." Ask your dealer
to get you a copy. Price
25 cents.
Obtainable from all dealers
in photo supplies. Ask for
list of the complete series.
NO FREE SAMPLES.
TENNANT A WARD, Pnblisliert. NEW YORK
mm lettiRicm coio cutiii s;ra.^r''A^i"v'S^o.Vi«T/M;'!?''ii.'=tii-ii^s:
MISCELLANEOUS
^
for Your Pet Negative |
There is a Perfection and Quality about the Famous
BRADLEY PLATINUM PAPER
7 which justly makes it " Without a Rival." It bears the sjc
^ maker's guarantee, and is sold only by first<lass dealers ^
in photo supplies, which is a double guarantee. > > .j* ^
Maaufacturcd only by
JOHN BRADLEY, Chemist, PHILADELPHIA
CREATES A PERFECT GOHPLEXIDN
Mrs. Qraham's
! Cucumber and Elder
I
J Flower Cream
i
ilt cleanses, whitens and beautifies the *k
feeds and nourishes skin tissues, tlius bajii~~
ing wrinkles. It is harmless as dew, azic j.
nourishing' to the skin as dew is to the flonc
§ Price fl.OO at drug-g-ists and agenta, or ^-'
anywhere prepaid. Sample bottle, 10 ce--,
^ A handsome book. " How to be Beautifu;,
t '•"■
I MRS. GRAHAM'S CACTICO HAIR GROWER
I QUICK H A m^ RESTORER
fBolb snanntecd taarmlesa ag valer. Sold b^ beat I>ni|(Iats, o, xent In pUid xealed wrap^Er i
xxoTcsfi. nrenaid. Fiios. ■! .OO ttach. For sale by all DrsKslsla and Hairdealcrs.
''A CDnfidential Chal with Bald Headed. Thin Haired a.ad Crar Bi.:i:
ems wanted.
BEDINOTON A CO., Bita rrknoliDo, Oea. PaelBc Cokit Asenta.
* MRS. OERVAISE ORAHAM, IS61 HlolllBlul A.V*., Ohlur
1 MBS. WKAVBK- JACKSON, Bitlr Store! »ad Toilet fulora, 91S 8. SprlnK St.. Loi Ji-
C Selei. 9* Fall Okki Are., eor. GreeD Bt., PundeOB-
/
3 2044 041 831 447
This book is not to be
taken from the Library
3 2044 041 831 447
•
This book is not to be
taken from the Library
3 2044 041 831 447
r
This book is not to be
taken from the Library
V