Skip to main content

Full text of "The Land of sunshine"

See other formats


Google 


This  is  a  digital  copy  of  a  book  that  was  preserved  for  generations  on  Hbrary  shelves  before  it  was  carefully  scanned  by  Google  as  part  of  a  project 

to  make  the  world's  books  discoverable  online. 

It  has  survived  long  enough  for  the  copyright  to  expire  and  the  book  to  enter  the  public  domain.  A  public  domain  book  is  one  that  was  never  subject 

to  copyright  or  whose  legal  copyright  term  has  expired.  Whether  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  may  vary  country  to  country.  Public  domain  books 

are  our  gateways  to  the  past,  representing  a  wealth  of  history,  culture  and  knowledge  that's  often  difficult  to  discover. 

Marks,  notations  and  other  maiginalia  present  in  the  original  volume  will  appear  in  this  file  -  a  reminder  of  this  book's  long  journey  from  the 

publisher  to  a  library  and  finally  to  you. 

Usage  guidelines 

Google  is  proud  to  partner  with  libraries  to  digitize  public  domain  materials  and  make  them  widely  accessible.  Public  domain  books  belong  to  the 
public  and  we  are  merely  their  custodians.  Nevertheless,  this  work  is  expensive,  so  in  order  to  keep  providing  this  resource,  we  liave  taken  steps  to 
prevent  abuse  by  commercial  parties,  including  placing  technical  restrictions  on  automated  querying. 
We  also  ask  that  you: 

+  Make  non-commercial  use  of  the  files  We  designed  Google  Book  Search  for  use  by  individuals,  and  we  request  that  you  use  these  files  for 
personal,  non-commercial  purposes. 

+  Refrain  fivm  automated  querying  Do  not  send  automated  queries  of  any  sort  to  Google's  system:  If  you  are  conducting  research  on  machine 
translation,  optical  character  recognition  or  other  areas  where  access  to  a  large  amount  of  text  is  helpful,  please  contact  us.  We  encourage  the 
use  of  public  domain  materials  for  these  purposes  and  may  be  able  to  help. 

+  Maintain  attributionTht  GoogXt  "watermark"  you  see  on  each  file  is  essential  for  informing  people  about  this  project  and  helping  them  find 
additional  materials  through  Google  Book  Search.  Please  do  not  remove  it. 

+  Keep  it  legal  Whatever  your  use,  remember  that  you  are  responsible  for  ensuring  that  what  you  are  doing  is  legal.  Do  not  assume  that  just 
because  we  believe  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  the  United  States,  that  the  work  is  also  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  other 
countries.  Whether  a  book  is  still  in  copyright  varies  from  country  to  country,  and  we  can't  offer  guidance  on  whether  any  specific  use  of 
any  specific  book  is  allowed.  Please  do  not  assume  that  a  book's  appearance  in  Google  Book  Search  means  it  can  be  used  in  any  manner 
anywhere  in  the  world.  Copyright  infringement  liabili^  can  be  quite  severe. 

About  Google  Book  Search 

Google's  mission  is  to  organize  the  world's  information  and  to  make  it  universally  accessible  and  useful.   Google  Book  Search  helps  readers 
discover  the  world's  books  while  helping  authors  and  publishers  reach  new  audiences.  You  can  search  through  the  full  text  of  this  book  on  the  web 

at|http  :  //books  .  google  .  com/| 


\. 


6- 

THE 


Land  of  Sunshine 


THE   MAGAZINE   OF 

CALIFORNIA  AND  THE  WEST 


EDITED   BY 

CHARLES  F.  LUMMIS 


Stapf — David    Starr  Jordan.  Joaquin  Miller.  Theodore  H.  Hittell,  Mary  Hallock  Foote. 
Margaret  Collier  Graham.  Charles  Warren  Stoddard.  Grace  Ellery  Channing.  John  Vance 
Cheney.  Ina  Coolbrith,  William  Keith.  Dr.  Washlngrton  Matthews.  Geo.  Parlier 
Winship,  Frederick  Webb  Hodge,  Charles  F.   Holder.  Edwin  Markham, 
Geo.   Hamlin   Fitch.  Chas.  Howard  Shinn,  Wm.  E.   Smythe.  T.  S. 
Van  Dyke,  Chas.  A.  Keeler,  Louise  M.  Keeler,  A.  F.  Harmer, 
L.    Maynard   Dixon,  Charlotte   Perkins   Stetson,  Con- 
stance Goddard  Dubois.  Batterman  Lindsay, 
Charles  Dwight  Willard,  Elizabeth 
and   Joseph    Grinnell, 
Frederick  Starr. 


VOLUME  XV 

June,  1901,  to  December,  1901 


Land  of  Sunshine  Publishing  Co. 

LOS  ANGELES.  CAL. 


f,:'  .  •.  ^*  . 


r-      I  ' 


/ 


J 


^  , :  ^  1  .  /  ^  - 


s. 


T    - 


-  /9;/ 


Copyright,    190 1,  by 
Land  of  Sunshine  Publishing  Co. 


The  Land  of  Sunshine. 

INDEX   TO  Vol.   XV. 

Acoma,  illustrated,  C.  F.  L 314- 

A  Week  of  Wonders,  illustrated,  Chas.  F.  L/ummis 315,  425  '- 

Ark  People  of  California,  The,  illustrated,  Clara  Vostrovsky 17 

Basasiachic,  Waterfall  of ,  illustrated,  Salom^  Cecil 141 

Below  Sea-Level,  illustrated ,  Frances  Anthony 22 

Burgher's  Wife,  The  (poem),  Mary  Austin 423 

California  "Gusher,"  A,  Elizabeth  Gerberding 242 

California  Statistics 49 

Capistrano  Mission,  illustrated,  Anna  C.  Field 127 

Charra,  The  Little 110 

Chetro  Kettle,  Ruins  of,  illustrated,  C.  F.  L ...  425- 

Cheyenne  Conference,  The,  W.  E.  S 69 

Costans6,  Report  of  the  California  Expeditions  of  1769,  concluded    38*"^"^^ 

Dream-Child  of  the  Mesa,  The  (story),  Lamier  Bartlett 150- 

Early    Western    History — the    California    Expeditions  of    1769 

(Costans^). 38 

Father  Perea's  Report  on  New  Mexico  in  1632 357,  465 

Evening  Star,  painting  by  Wm.  Keith 206 

Fall  Plowing  (poem), Isaac  Jenkinson  Frazer 349 

**  Freaks"  in  Wild-Flowers,  illustrated,  Geo.  F.  Leavens 333 

Geographical  Peculiarities  of  California,  Theodore  H.  Hittell 152 

Guadalupe  Wooing,  A  (story),  Amanda  Matthews 350 

Hoodoos  of  Wyoming,  The,  illustrated,  Earle  V.  Wilcox 209 

How  to  Colonize  the  Pacific  Coast,  Wm.  E.  Smythe 171,  279,  383 

How  We  Adjudicated  the  Water  Rights  of  Wyoming,  Fred  Bond    73 

Idaho,  A  New  Plymouth  in 77 

Indian  Paintings,  Some,  illustrated,  "W.  C.  Frederick 223 

Indian  Baskets,  illustrated,  Carl  Purdy 438 

Indian  Policy,  A  New,  C.  F.  L 457 

In  Panama,  illustrated,  Tracy  Robinson 113 

In  the  Lion's  Den  (by  the  Editor) 50,  158,  261,  363,  470 

In  Western  Letters,  illustrated,  C.  F.  L 139,  234^- 

Irrigation,  by  the  leading  experts 61 

Irrigation  Laws,  Proposed  Reform  in,  by  Government  Experts.,.  •199 

Island  of  the  Good  Herb,  The,  illustrated,  Henry  S.  Kirk 228 

Ivory  Crucifix,  The  (poem),  Sharlot  M.  Hall 207 

Ki-a-a,  Ruins  of,  illustrated,  C.  F.  L 425^ 

Landmarks  Club,  The 127,  157,  260,  362,  450 

Le  Conte,  Joseph  (poem),  E.  C.  Tompkins 143 

Le  Conte,  Joseph,  portrait,  236,  sketch,  Victor  Henderson 239 

Mark  Twain  and  the  First  NevadalLegislature,  Mark  Lee  Luther  144 
Midsummer  Song  (poem),  Hilton  R.  Greer* 156 


Mission  Indian  Exiles,  The,  Constance  Goddard  Du  Bois 248  i 

Mormonism,  By  its  Head,  Lorenzo  Snow 252  , 

^^avajo  Initiation,  A,  Dr.  Washington  Matthews 353  , 

One  Acre  Better  Than  10,000,  H.  Dunham 177  ! 

One  Christmas  (story),  L/illian  Corbett  Barnes 454  ' 

—Painted  Desert,  The  (poem),  Harrison  Conrad 453  i 

Pala,  The  Mission  at,  illustrated 422,  450 

Panama  Canal,  The,  illustrated,  Tracy  Robinson 4 

Panama,  Life  in,  illustrated,  Tracy  Robinson 113  I 

Perea,  Fray  Estevan  de,  **  Verdadera  Relacion"  of  New  Mexico  i 

in  1632 357,  465 

Peril  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  The,  illustrated,  T.  P.  Lukeus 337  ! 

Perils  of  Water  Monopoly,  W.  E.  S 391  i 

Pomo  Indian  Baskets  and  their  Makers,  illustrated,  Carl  Purdy...  439 

Program  for  California,  A,  W.  E.  Smythe 487  ' 

^Pueblo  Bonito,  Ruins  of,  illustrated,  C.  F.  L 425 

Pueblo  del  Arroyo,  Ruins  of ,  C.  F.  L 425  ! 

Rochdale  Cooperation  in  California,  Prof.  D.  T.  Fowler 180 

She  Dreams  (poem),  illustrated,  Mary  H.  Coates 32 

Sickle-Billed  Thrush,  The  (poem),  Lillian  H.  Shuey 3 

Sierran  Daisies  (poem),  Marian  Warner  Wildman 349 

Sleepy  Hollow,  A  Southwestern,  illustrated,  Anna  Caroline  Field.  127 

Sonata  Pathetique,  The,  painting  by  Wm.  Keith 2 

State  and  National  Irrigation  Policies.^W.  E.  Smythe 65 

Struggle  for  Water,  The,  W.  E.  S 285 

That  Which  is  Written  (reviews  by  the  editor  and  C.  A.  Moody) 

58,  266,  372,  478 

Trobadour,  The  (poem),  Denis  A.  McCarthy Ill 

-  Twentieth  Century  West,  The,  illustrated,  conducted  by  Wm.  E. 

Smythe 61,  165,  271,  377,  485 

Waterfall  of  Basasiachic,  The,  illustrated,  Salom^  Cecil 141 

*Week  of  Wonders,  A,  illustrated,  Chas.  F.  Lummis 315,  425 

^Western  Letters,  In,  C.  F.  L 139,  234 

When  the  Birds  are  Nesting,  illustrated,  Elizabeth  Grinnell 27 

White  Otter,  The  (story),  Neil  Sheridan 33 

-Workers  for  The  West,  illustrated 185 

Articlbs  of  Locawtiks— 

Alameda,  illustrated,  F.  N.  Delaney 189 

Idyllwild,     Saunterings     at,    illustrated,    Kate    Glessner 

Carrithers 503 

Resorts  of  Southern  California,  illustrated 80 

San  Joaquin  County  and  Stockton,  illustrated,  Colvin  B. 

Brown 91 

Santa  Barbara,  illustrated,  Chas.  Amadon  Moody 401 

Santa  Rosa,  Sonoma  County,  illus.,  Robt.  A.  Thompson 299 

Tropic  America,  illustrated,  H.  E.  Brook 508 


Vol.  XV,  No. 


Rlcbly 

Illustrated 


> 

> 

> 
> 
> 

> 


<A 


> 


^    THE  LAND  OF 

SUNSHINE 


CALIFORNIA  AND  THE  WEST 

EDITED  BY  CHAS.  F.  UUMMIS 


■  a     cents  land    op    sunshine    PUBLISHINS    CO..    IHartMntM         dk| 


SUMMER  RESORTS 


-m 


\ 


Vol.  16,  NO.  1.  LOS    ANGCLES  JULY.  1901 


The  Sickle-Billed  Thrush. 

Who  is  it  calling:  earl}*, 

A  whistle,  a  refrain. 
The  morning  dawning  darkly. 

The  bushes  wet  with  rain  ? 
He  saw  the  stars  of  morninfif 

Behind  the  mists  grow  pale. 
And  then  he  whistled  blithely 

To  wake  the  slumberint;  vale. 

A  big,  brown  bird  is  sitting 
There  in  the  leafless  brush  ; 

We  know  him  by  his  long,  queer  beak, 
.  The  bonnie  curve-billed  thrush. 

He  makes  his  fun  so  serious. 
So  earnest,  yet  so  gay  ; 

The  farmer  and  the  school-boy 
He  greets  upon  their  way. 

It's  "stir  it,  stir  it,  stir  it." 
"  Dorothy,  kiss  me  soon  ; " 
He's  mocking  every  songster 

He  heard  in  sunny  June — 
The  California  thrasher. 

The  winsome  mocking-bird — 
I  live  a  richer,  gladder  life, 

Since  I  his  voice  have  heard. 


LAND    OF   SUNSHINE 

The  morning's  dewy  hedges. 

The  cloud-enveloped  moon, 
The  chaparral,  the  shadows, 

The  thrasher's  startling  tune  ; 
A  path  all  gray  and  gloomy, 

A  fleeting  April  rain, 
A  stealthy  step  to  hear  once  more 

That  rapturous  refrain. 


The  Panama  Canal.' 

OON  after  the  beginnijig  of  General  Grant's  first 

term  as  president,   March  4th,   1869,  he  look 

steps  toward  opening  a  ship  canal  at  Panama. 

He  had  crossed  and  re-crossed  by  the  Chagres 

route  in   earlier  days,  when   his   West   Point 

training  had  enabled  him  to  form  an  intelligent 

idea  of  the  lay  of  the  land.     He  selected  his 

friend  General   HurJbut  of  Illinois    as   United 

^  States  Minister  to  Bogota,  and  commissioned 

him    to   negotiate   a  Canal   Treaty   with  the 

Colombian  government.     Early  in  the  year  1870  the  treatj' 

was   completed  and  signed  by  the  commissioners,  one   of 

whom   on   the  part  of   Colombia  was  the  late  Dr.   Justo 

Arosemena,  a    native   of  Panama,  and   one    of   the  most 

enlightened  and  distinguished  sons  of  Spanish  America. 

A  copy  was  sent  to  Washington,  where  it  was  favorably 
received  by  the  President  and  his  eminent  Secretary  of 
State,  Honorable  Hamilton  Fish,  It  was  at  once  submitted 
to  the  Senate,  and  so  great  was  the  confidence  of  President 
Grant  in  its  ratification  that  his  brief  message  of  transmis- 
sion stated  that  the  treaty  was  sent  for  approval,  not  a 
word  being  said  about  its  rejection.  In  fact',  he  seems  to 
have  been  altogether  satisfied  and  sanguine. 

The  treaty  itself  was  a  remarkable  document,  as  can  be 
seen  by  its  perusal.  It  provided  for  the  construction  anil 
maintenance  of  a  canal  at  Panama,  by  the  United  States, 
or  by  whatever  party  or  parties  the  United  States  might 
substitute  and  be  responsible  for.  Provision  was  made  for 
the  military  protsction  and  control  of  the  waterway  by  the 
Government  of  the  United  States ;  and  the  only  proviso 
that  fell  short  of  an  absolute  guarantee  that  a  canal  should 


CH&GKBa  HlVBK. 


THE    PANAMA    CANAL.  ? 

be  made  and  opened  to  the  commerce  of  the  world,  was  the 
one  that  the  surveys,  to  be  made  at  the  expense  of  the 
United  States,  should  declare  the  great  work  practicable. 

It  therefore  looked  as  though  everything  was  well  ar- 
ranged for  a  speedy  joining  of  the  Caribbean  and  the 
Pacific. 

But  before  action  had  been  taken  by  the  United  States 
Senate,  word  came  from  Bogota  to  the  effect  that  the 
Colombian  Congress  had  dealt  a  deathblow  to  the  negotia- 
tions. The  provisions  of  the  treaty  had  been  so  modified 
during  the  discussions  which  followed  its  submission   to 


Property  of  Amer.  Cuntractlns  and  DreilEliiE  Co.    At  Anchor  In  ChanreBRWer. 

that  body,  that  it  was  no  longer  possible  to  accept  it. 
Violent  hostility  prevailed  among  Colombian  public  men, 
and  the  matter  was  dropped.  Had  the  treaty  been  ratified, 
there  is  no  doubt  that  long  ago  there  would  have  been  a 
canal  at  Panama. 

The  Nicaragua  scheme  was  then  taken  up.  Not  to  be 
thwarted  in  his  pet  ambition.  General  Grant  set  his  friend 
Admiral  Ammen  to  work,  with  Mr.  Menocal  as  his  able 
and  indefatigable  lieutenant,  and  for  thirty  years  the 
propaganda  of  a  Nicaragua  canal  has  been  diligently  urged 
upon  the  American  people.  A  large  amount  has  been 
spent  in  surveys,  and  the  work  of  construction  was  some 
years  ago  actually  begun,  though  soon  suspended. 


THE    PANAMA    CANAL.  H 

The  world  is  familiar,  more  or  less,  with  the  great 
Lesseps  failure  at  Panama.  The  literature  of  the  subject 
would  load  a  ship.  The  fact  remains,  however,  not  to  be 
gainsaid  or  disputed,  that  work  has  been  done  at  Panama, 
up  to  the  present  time  (for  operations  have  never  entirely 
ceased)  representing:  nearly  or  quite  one-fourth  of  the  en- 
tire amount  necessary. 

The  latest  commission,  under  the  direction  of  Admiral 
Walker,  has  made  its  report,  and  for  reasons  other  than 
technical,  Nicaragua  has  been  favored ;  these  reasons  being 
the  tangle  existing  between  the  French  canal  company  and 


Panama  Canal  CrTTiNO— Bab  Obispo, 

the  government  of  Colombia;  doubt  as  to  a  permanent 
right  of  way  ;  uncertainty  as  to  the  selling  price  of  the 
French  concession,  etc.  There  is  no  real  question  as  to  the 
superiority  of  the  Panama  route.  It  is  less  than  fifty  miles 
in  length,  while  that  of  Nicaragua  is  190  miles.  It  is  the 
only  place  at  which  a  tide  level  canal  can  ever  be  made.  It 
has  the  advantage  of  good  harbors,  and  of  a  railroad  in 
operation  along  its  line.  As  for  climate,  the  rainfall,  ac- 
cording to  official  data,  has  an  average  of  fifty  inches  less 
per  annum  at  Colon  than  at  San  Juan  del  Norte.  In  regard 
to  sanitation,  the  Panama  Isthmus  can  certainly  compare 
favorably  with  Nicaragua. 


;— Old   Panaua  (Hear 


THE    PANAMA    CANAL.  15 

To  those  who  have  sufficient  interest  in  the  subject  of 
comparative  distances  between  the  countries  that  will  be 
tributary  to  a  canal,  wherever  it  is  made,  the  careful  tables 
compiled  by  competent  authorities  (among  whom  is  Captain 
W.  L.  Merry.  United  States  Minister  to  Costa  Rica  and 
Nicaragua)  are  respectfully  recommended. 

It  is  fortunate  that  Congress  failed  to  pass  a  Nicaragua 
canal  bill  at  its  last  session.  The  delay  will  give  chance 
for  arrangements  mutually  satisfactory  to  Colombia,  to  the 
French  company,  and  to  the  United  States.     There  is  no 


Clayton-Bulwer  dra^ron  guarding  that  gateway,  nor  yet  an 
unacceptable  Hay-Pau  nee  forte  treaty  to  be  rewritten  and 
wrangled  over.  There  is,  on  the  other  hand,  in  full  force, 
the  treaty  of  1846,  between  the  United  States  and  New 
Granada,  now  Colombia,  under  which  the  neutrality  of  the 
Panama  transit  is  "effectively  guaranteed"  by  the  former 
government.  California  is  deeply  interested  in  having  the 
most  serviceable  canal  that  can  be  made,  in  the  shortest  time, 
for  the  least  cost,  and  in  the  best  place.  The  Panama  route 
should  therefore  be  adopted.  Gen.  Grant  thought  so  thirty 
years  ago,  and  even  untiring  Senator  Morgan  would  think 
so  now,  were  he  thoroughly  informed  and  unprejudiced. 

Ijon  ADBelM. 


The  Ark  People  of  California. 


CALIFORNIA  is  filled  to  the  brim  with  curious 
i!r      and    interesting    things,    both    great     and 
^     small,    both  rich    and  poor,   both   real    and 
imitation,  but  there  is  one  which  is  kept  hidden 
as  far  as  possible  from  the  Californian  as  well  as 
from  the  tourist,  and  that  is  the  community  of 
Ark  Dwellers  in  Stockton  on  the  San  Joaquin 
river.     The  reason  for  this  un-Californian  atti- 
tude lies  in  the  fact  that  the  people  of  Stockton 
are   strangely    ashamed   of    the    Ark   People ; 
they  spwak  of  them  to  one  another  as  "  boister- 
ous," and  look  upon  them  as  a  "nuisance,"  a  "standing 
disgrace  "to  a  city  rapidly  gaining  respectability.     Time 
and  again  they  have  endeavored  to  get  rid  of  them,  but  in 
vain  ;  the  ark  people  have   fought  their  own  battles  too 
well ;   until  the  Stockton  people  have  ended  by  ostracizing 
and  ignoring  this  rapidly  growing  settlement. 

If  a  stranger  happens  to  wander  not  far  from  the  busi- 
ness portion  of  the  town  to  the  banks  of  one  of  the  largest 
sloughs  of  the  San  Joaquin,  he  is  unprepared  to  find  it 
literally  lined  with  arks  or  house-boats,  and  still  more  to 
find  that  these  house  boats  are  not  merely  summer  resi- 
dences by  any  means,  but  permanent  homes  of  a  more  or 
less  settled  community.  They  are  a  decidedly  picturesque 
feature  of  an  otherwise  "civilized"  country,  agreeing  only 
in  not  being  large,  consisting  of  one.  two,  and  at  most  of 


18  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

three  rooms,  and  having  an  extension  at  each  end  like  ferry 
boats.  In  every  other  respect  they  differ  as  much  as  th« 
nationalities  of  the  owners,  who  are  of  Dutch,  German, 
Scotch,  English  and  American  descent.  Some  of  the  arks 
are  low,  for  the  sake  of  rapidity  in  travel,  others,  more 
stationary,  are  high  ;  some  are  merely  white-washed,  with 
small,  rude  windows  and  doors,  others  are  built  well  and 
gaily  painted  in  white  and  green  and  blue  ;  some  are  spot- 
lessly clean,  others  disgustingly  dirty  ;  some  are  anchored 
where  the  sun  beats  painfully  down  on  them  during  the 
summer  months,  others  are  found  in  pretty  spots  sheltered 
by  willows. 

It  is  not  religious  or  social  fanaticism  that  has  brought 
about  the  establishment  of  this  water  colony,  but  the  even 
more  potent  factor  that  life  in  such  a  house-boat  is  wonder- 
fully cheap.  Fish  and  game  are  plentiful,  and  for  fuel  one 
needs  to  be  energetic  only  once  a  day— in  the  early  morn- 
ing— when  large  amounts  of  drift  wood  come  floating 
down  the  river.  There  is  a  fascination  about  the  life  too, 
due  to  the  freedom  of  the  coming  and  going,  that  keeps 
people  attached  to  it  even  when  they  might  live  more  com- 
fortably on  land.  Thus  there  are  several  ark  people  who 
own  property  in  the  town  ;  and  one,  a  Scotchman,  is  esti- 
mated to  be  worth  $12,000  or  $13,000. 

But  all  poor  people  do  not  take  naturally  to  this  life.  To 
live  happily  as  an  arkman,  certain  characteristics  of  mind 


A  Grodp  ov  a 


THE    ARK    PEOPLE. 


are  indispensable,  particularly  independence.  One  must 
be  satisfied  to  live  alone,  for  stranj^e  as  it  may  seem,  not 
only  is  there  no  social  intercourse  between  those  who  live 
in  Stockton  and  those  who  live  on  the  arks,  but  there  is 
also  no  social  intercourse  among  the  ark  people  themselves. 
"Are  there  any  Germans  among  the  arks  ?"  we  <tsked  of 
one  inhabitant.  "Germans?  oh,  probably  ;  but  I  cannot 
tell  you,  for  I  do  not  know  many  who  live  as  I  do."  "  You 
are  then  a  stranger  ?"  "Hardly;  I  have  lived  here  some 
seven  years."  There  is  only  one  thing  that  ever  unites 
them,  and  that  is  warfare  against  their  common  enemy, 
the  land  people. 

The  first  ark  that  we  visited  belonged  to  the  dirty  kind. 
To  get  to  the  door  it  was  necessary  to  walk  down  a  long 
plank  and  then  jump  a  low  fence  on  the  ark  itself.  We 
were  warmly  greeted.  Ark  life  is  one  of  leisure  and  that, 
together  with  the  scarcity  of  visitors,  makes  all  who  come 
welcome.  We  sat  down  where  we  could  find  a  seat,  for 
that  was  no  very  easy  matter,  the  lack  of  outsiders  being 
evidently  counterbalanced  by  the  size  of  this  particular 
family  at  least.  There  was  the  husband  and  wife 
and  child — a  very   dirty   child — there    were    two  women 


20  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

of  no  apparent  relation  to  the  others,  and  a  grandfather 
and  a  grandmother.  While  we  were  comparing  the  two 
small  rooms  with  the  number  of  members  in  the  family, 
one  and  all  of  the  latter  launched  forth  into  a  praise  of  the 
beauties  of  ark  life.  I..ater  on  wc  found  this  satisfaction 
with  their  lot  quite  universal  among  them.  Not  onlj'  were 
we  told  in  each  of  the  three  arks  which  we  visited  that  ark 
life  is  superior  to  all  other  life,  but  the  owners  of  each 
individual  ark  no  sooner  had  made  our  acquaintance  than 
they  hastened  to  inform  us  that  their  own  ark  was  the 
largest  and  finest  ark  on  the  entire  slough. 

The  little  combined  sitting-  and  bed-room  in  which  we 
found  ourselves,  and  in  which  for  obvious  reasons  we  were 
somewhat  reluctant  to  linger  long,  had  beside  a  terribly  old 
and  torn  carpet  and  the  necessary  articles  of  furniture,  a 


few  pictures  and  a  shelf  of  old  books.  "There's  nothing 
like  reading,"  said  the  principal  man  of  the  house,  point- 
ing the  latter  out  to  us,  "  but  the  trouble  with  me  is  that  I 
already  know  too  much."  Evidently  taking  our  silence  for 
consent,  he  proceeded  to  point  out  other  treasures.  "That," 
he  remarked,  among  other  things,  pointing  with  an  inde- 
scribable air  of  pride  to  a  faded  chromo  hanging  above  the 
bureau,  "  is  Shakespeare's  cottage  by  the  sea.  Of  course 
you  have  heard  of  Shakespeare's  cottage  by  the  sea."  We 
bad  not,  but  thought  it  wisest  to  conceal  our  ignorance. 
We   next   visited   one   of    the  spotlessly  clean  arks,  in 


THE    ARK    PEOPLE.  21 

which  we  found  a  neat-looking  Scotchwoman  preparing  her 
noonday  meal.  She  also  was  gflad  to  see  us.  We  wondered 
whether  she  shared  the  aristocratic  tendencies  of  her 
neighbors,  and  inquired  whether  there  was  much  social  life 
among  the  ark  people.  At  this  she  turned  up  her  nose. 
*' We  know  scarcely  any  of  them,"  she  said  ;  '*  we  prefer  to 
choose  our  own  company." 

By  the  time  that  we  came  out  we  found  a  little  man 
waiting  for  us.  He  had  found  out,  somehow  or  other,  that 
we  were  taking  pictures,  and  he  was  very  anxious  that  we 
should  take  his  ark,  "the  best  one  of  all."  This  was  just 
the  kind  of  an  invitation  that  we  wanted,  and  as  we  went 
with  him  we  were  delighted  to  find  that  he  was  not  only  a 
loyal  ark  resident  but  the  originator  of  the  arks  themselves. 
His  ark  belonged  to  the  clean  ones.  It  was  almost  painfully 
clean,  one  felt,  when  one's  eyes  fell  on  the  newspapers  care- 
fully spread  over  the  bed  to  protect  its  white  cover.  Rows  of 
flower  pots,  which  he  told  us  he  had  watered  daily  since  his 
wife's  death,  stood  on  the  wide  porch.  He  informed  us 
that  he  was  well  to  do,  but  that  he  added  to  his  income  by 
loaning  boats.  Although  he  had  lived  on  the  slough  for 
some  thirty  years,  he  also  did  not  know  his  neighbors,  and 
seemed  as  glad  as  the  others  had  been  to  find  some  one  to 
listen  to  him.  His  story  was  an  interesting  one.  He 
came  to  San  Francisco  from  Liverpool,  around  Cape  Horn, 
acting  then  as  steward  of  the  ship,  a  position  in  which  he 
had  a  good  opportunity  to  learn  something  as  to  how  the 
vessel  was  built.  In  '62  he  left  San  Francisco  for  Stock- 
ton, where  he  conceived  the  idea  of  building  a  boat  which 
would  also  serve  as  his  home.  This  boat  cost  him  about 
$200.  Hunting  and  trapping  paid  well  then  on  the  San 
Joaquin,  and  as  it  was  not  hard  to  make  from  $3  to  $4  a 
day,  it  was  not  long  before  the  ark  had  paid  for  itself. 
Some  one  came  along  who  wanted  to  buy  it,  and  he  sold  it 
for  what  it  had  cost  him.  He  built  another  and  again  sold 
that.  Gradually  more  and  more  hunters  came  in,  and  he 
not  only  had  employment  making  houses  for  them,  but  they 
began  to  copy  his  pattern  until  the  colony  reached  its 
present  size  of  about  a  hundred  ark-boats. 

Modesto,  Cal. 


Below  Sea-Level: 


_riS  our  journey  from  the  Coloraiio  Desert  led 

8  S       "^  below  sea-level  there  was  no  noticeable 

v  S       difference  in  the  aspect  of  the  country. 

*  "       There    were    mesquite    trees    and   sand 

dunes ;    and    the    sandy   stage-road  was 

just  as  crooked  as  it  turned  to  right  and 

left  to  avoid  them. 

The  first  change  to  remind  us  that  we 
had  come  down  into  what  was  once  a 
part  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  was 
hundreds  of  acres  of  tiny  grayish-white 
shells  covering  the  ground  like  dirty  snow.  They  varied 
in  size  from  a  pinhead  to  a  small  grain  of  rice  ;  here  and 


Indian  Gbahaiies,  Alamo  Bonito. 

there  were  spots  of  others  as  large  as  kernels  of  corn,  and 
some  mussel  shells  two  inches  long. 

Bigfht  miles  brought  us  to  Indio,  and  we  had  impercept- 
ibly descended  to  twenty  feet  below  sea-level.  In  our 
geographies  we  had  learned  that  a  desert  was  a  sandy 
plain  where  nothing  grew  and  it  never  rained  ;  and  nowwe 
must  either  unlearn  this  or  consider  that  the  name  is  un- 
justly applied.  Not  only  do  things  grow  in  a  great  part  of 
the  Colorado  Desert,  but  in  the  summer  it  rains,  and  with 
more  water  this  land  would  produce  a  great  variety  of 
crops.  Some  artesian  wells  have  been  sunk.  The  Southern 
Pacific  R.  R.  has  a  flowing  well  at  Walters  which 
throws  fifty  inches  of  water  into  a  tank  twenty  feet  high. 

We  learned  also  that  a  desert  is  not  always  all  sand. 
Below   Walters— we   were   still   going  down — the   soil    is 


BELOW    SEA-LEVEL.  23 

clay,  and  with  every  mile  more  and  more  alkaline.  As  this 
increased,  the  growth  of  mesquite  decreased,  brush  taking 
its  place,  which  in  its  turn  ceased,  and  for  some  miles  the 
only  growth  was  a  curious  bush  without  leaves.  A  branch 
or  stem  was  a  series  of  joints  looking  like  a  string  of 
green,  dew-covered  wax  beads,  and  was  very  easily 
crushed. 

Farther  on,  plant  life  ceased  altogether.  The  salt  and 
alkali  showed  plainly  on  the  surface,  and  selecting  a  camp 
site  for   the   night   was   not  really  easy.     There  was  no 


262  Feet  Bel,ow  Sba-Lkvel.    iNur  Salton.  Cal.) 

choice  of  location  except  to  find  a  place  dry  enough.  Here 
was  the  level  we  had  believed  to  be  a  characteristic  of  the 
whole  desert. 

Beyond  us  was  the  dried  up  "Salton  Sea."  Its  surface 
is  as  white  and  dazzling  as  though  covered  with  snow.  Its 
middle  is  three  hundred  feet  below  sea-level.  The  road 
passes  through  the  edge  at  an  altitude  of  minus  262  feet ; 
the  beaten  track  is  firm,  but  stepping  outside  one  sinks 
into  the  soft  ground  beneath  the  salt  with  the  same  sensa- 
tion as  though  stepping  into  half-frozen,  snow-covered 
mud. 

Looking  toward  the  middle  of  the  salt  basin  it  was  im- 
possible to  know  how  near  the  derricks  and  buildings  of 
the  salt-works  were.  We  saw  a  boat,  with  a  number  of 
men  rowing  it,  go  out  on  the  sea,  and  before  we  reached 
Salton  it  was  coming  back.  It  proved  to  be  not  the  kind 
of  boat  we  wanted  to  row  in.  It  was  a  flat-car  on  a  track, 
with  an  engine  to  pull  it.     The  men  who  bad  appeared  to 


LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 


be  rowing  were  standing  up  leaning  on  their  shovels,  and 
by  a  peculiar  refraction  of  light  the  engine  had  not  ap- 
peared at  all. 

Our  next  objective  point  was  the  ranch  of  "  Fig  Tree 
John,"  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley.  At  noon,  while  con- 
sidering which  branch  road  to  take  round  the  head  of  the 
lake,  we  asked  our  way  of  an  Indian  who  had  just  come 
across  on  horseback. 

"Me  Pee-chee  John"  was  his  reply.  When  he  learned 
that  we  knew  his  sister  at  Crafton  he  at  once  invited  us  to 
stay  with  him,  and  we  accepted.  Returning  from  Salton 
he  overtook  us,  pointed  out  his  ranch,  and  then  went  on. 
When  we  had  gone  what  seemed  far  enough  we  could  see 
no  sign  of  a  settlement,  and  should  have  thought  that  we 
were  going  into  a  wilderness  ;  but  just  then  we  perceived 
a  faint  smoke  rising  straight  ahead.  Soon  we  made  out 
the  yellow  leaves  of  a  cottonwood  tree — then  the  green  of 
a  palm  tree,  and  soon,  under  the  smoke,  the  tule-thatched 
roof  of  the  house.  There  were  several  buildings  of  brush 
with  tule  roofs.  Their  color  is  so  much  like  that  of  the 
soil  and  the  general  brown  of  most  vegetation  during  the 
winter  that  one  might  even  be  looking  and  pass  them  by 
but  for  a  smoke  or  the  movement  of  an  animal  to  call 
closer  attention. 

Fig  Tree  John  himself  met  us  at  the  gate.  He  assigned 
us  one  of  his  brush  houses,  brought  us  an  arm-load  of  the 
finest  dry  mesquite  wood,  showed  us  how  to  make  the  fire 
in  the  middle  of  the  one  room,  and  pointed  out  the  manner 
in  which  the  smoke  rose  to  the  ridge  pole  and  then  went 


BELOW   SEA-LEVEL.  2S 

out  at  the  open  end.  Througfh  it  all  his  manner  was  as 
hospitable  as  any  white  man's  could  be.  Our  house  was 
built  without  boards  or  nails  ;  and,  though  open  at  the  east 
end  and  without  a  floor,  was  a  good  shelter  from  the  wind 
even  in  those  first  days  of  January. 

At  the  four  corners  and  in  the  middle  of  each  end  posts 
were  set  in  the  ground.  The  tpps  were  forked,  and  in  the 
forks  were  laid  the  plates  and  ridgepole.  The  sides  and 
end  were  filled  in  with  straight  desert  brush,  the  roof 
thatched  with  tules  and  all  fastened  with  strips  of  rawhide 
and  palm  leaves. 

Fig  Tree  John  is  known  by  that  name  because  he  is  the 
distinguished  owner  of  an  orchard  of  fig  trees.  His  Span- 
ish name  is  Juan  Razon,  but  his  Indian  name  is  a  secret. 
In  the  evening  he,  with  his  wife  and  baby,  visited  us,  and 
nest  morning  he  breakfasted  with  us. 

Williamson,  in  his  report  in  '54,  mentions  stopping  at 
this  place,  and  relates  some  of  the  legends  told  him  by 
other  Indians  living  here  then.  We  led  Fig  Tree  John  to 
talk  about  them.  When  we  came  to  that  about  the  floods 
and  loss  of  life  he  became  excited  and  ended  in  mixed 
Spanish  and  Knglish.  "Yes!  yes!  in  one  night  came 
much  water  and  killed  many  Indians,  many  Indians  !" 

Evidences  of  this  having  once  been  a  part  of  the  Gulf  of 
California  still  exist.  The  ancient  shore-line  is  distinct  on 
the  mountains,  a  mile  and  a  half  south  of  Fig  Tree  John's, 
and  175  feet  higher,  and  is  identical  with  the  line  of  the 
horizon  to  the  left  and  miles  beyond.     AH  that  was  under 


26  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

water  is  darker  than  that  above.  The  pebbles  and 
sand  are  in  water-lines  along  the  old  beach,  and  vary  in 
firmness  under  the  feet,  as  do  the  sands  at  the  seashore. 

A  hill  of  rocks  stands  alone  ;  its  top  was  once  an  island. 
Below  the  line  every  rock  is  covered  with  a  brownish-gray 
incrustation  from  two  to  twenty  inches  thick,  and  resemb- 
ling coral  in  its  fullness  of  holes.  Indian  carvings  in  the 
face  of  some  of  the  larger  rocks  show  faintly  ;  but  there  is 
nothing  by  which  to  tell  their  age  or  meaning. 

Next  day  we  started  northward  on  the  dim  and  little 
used  road  that  had  first  been  traveled  by  Williamson's  sur- 
veying party  forty-five  years  before. 

This  day  was  especially  productive  of  the  conditions  for 
mirages,  and  we  saw  three  remarkable  ones,  by  which  we 
realized  that  seeing  is  not  always  believing. 

What  we  knew  to  be  mesquite  trees  in  the  sand  assumed 
the  shape  and  beauty  of  a  row  of  majestic  eucalyptus  trees 
beside  a  broad  blue  stream. 

A  white  clifF  far  away  was  tranformed  into  a  fine  white- 
towered  and  turreted  castle  on  the  side  of  a  gray  mountain 

A  long  freight  train  four  miles  distant  was  nothing  more 
nor  less  than  a  great  humping  caterpillar  with  a  big  black 
head  and  a  bright  red  tail. 

At  Alamo  Bonito  we  found  some  of  the  real  Indian 
granaries.  They  are  like  immense  birdsnests,  three  to 
four  feet  across  and  two  to  three  feet  deep,  set  up  on  plat- 
forms. They  are  made  of  limber  brush  twined  and  twisted 
round  and  round  ;  when  filled  they  are  thatched  with  tules 
and  mud,  and  are  good  storehouses  for  beans,  mesquite 
pods  or  gfrain. 

After  passing  the  scattered  villages  of  Agua  Dulce, 
Toros  and  Martinez  the  road  was  so  bad  we  left  it  for  a 
better  one,  leading  across  toward  Indio ;  but  we  were  no 
better  oflf,  for  it  ended  at  Mesa  Grande.  As  we  came  up, 
everybody  scampered  out  of  sight  to  peek  at  us  through 
cracks  and  holes,  but  soon  they  were  all  out  again  listening 
to  what  conversation  we  were  able  to  make.  Our  road 
from  here  was  only  a  trail ;  for  miles  we  labored  along 
with  one  horse  and  two  wheels  in  it  while  the  others  went 
first  up  and  then  down  over  humps  and  in  hollows.  We 
saw  no  indication  of  a  road  and  had  no  idea  where  it  was  ; 
but,  knowing  that  an  Indian  trail  always  leads  to  some- 
thing, in  mixed  hope  and  disgust  we  kept  on.  At  last  we 
came  to  the  real  road  which  we  followed  for  three  days  till 
we  reached  home.  Tired,  yet  rested  by  the  change,  we  felt 
repaid  for  all  exertions  and  that  we  had  spent  a  profitable 
two  weeks.  Every  day  had  brought  new  experiences  or 
something  special  to  remember. 

Galenat  Kas. 


27 


When  The  Birds  Are  Nesting. 


BY  KLtZABKTH   QRINHMLL. 

IN  an  area  about  fifty  yards  square  adjoining  our 
home,  are  enacted  the  incidents  and  scenes  de- 
scribed. No  home  in  this  land  of  sunshine  need 
be  without  similar  associations.  To  plant  a  tree 
or  shrub  is  to  invite  the  birds.  But  tree  and  shrub 
must  grow.  Here  are  hints  for  those  who  bide 
the  growing :  A  pile  of  fruit  tree  prunings,  to 
be  had  for  the  asking  and  the  bringing,  may  be 
made  a  great  inducement.  Boughs  zigzag^  little 
sticks  interlacing,  an  uneven  mesh  of  knotted  fila- 
ment usually  condemned  to  the  back  yard  gehenna,  offer  untold  at- 
tractions to  many  of  our  birds.  In  this  partial  shelter  they  play 
hide-and-seek  with  their  threaded,  shadows,  feed  upon  insects  which 
seek  the  spot  for  the  same  reasons  as  themselves,  or  '*  sit  and  think," 
as  birds  appear  to  do,  at  intervals  during  the  day.  If  it's  sufficiently 
dense,  they  may  even  sleep  at  night  in  the  brush  pile.  To  induce 
them  to  build,  at  nesting  time,  about  a  home  whose  vines  have  yet  to 
grow,  blue  gum  or  pepper  boughs  thickly  foliaged,  fastened  about 
the  eaves  or  above  the  balcony,  will  prove  acceptable  to  the  linnets 
at  least,  perchance  to  the  mockers.  Berry  boxes  or  cigar  boxes  nailed 
high  up  under  the  north  eaves  of  house  or  stable  tempt  the  phoebe 
birds.  Of  course  the  litter  of  brush-pile  and  dead  foliage  may  hor- 
rify the  lover  of  immaculate  surroundings,  but,  perish  the  birds ! 
For  be  it  known  that  our  birds  despise  the  presence  of  the  landscape 
gardener,  with  his  lawn  mower,  and  clipping  machines,  and  pruning 
hooks.  They  fly  from  his  art  as  from  a  plague,  and  hie  them  to  the 
wild,  helter-skelter,  half-untidy  dooryard  of  the  less  artistic  but  more 
fervent  bird  lover. 

One  November  day,  when  the  winds  played  havoc  among  our  trees, 
a  great  pine  was  pushed  from  its  moorings  and  leaned  far  to  the 
south.  Its  roots  like  a  many  fingered  hand  lost  clutch  of  the  soil, 
and  pointed  reproachfully  skyward.  "Cut  it  up,**  said  the  wood- 
chopper.  "It  is  only  fit  to  bum.  and  pine  makes  good  lire  wood. 
The  roots  are  especially  rich.** 

A  mocking-bird  alighted  on  what  had  been  its  tufted  apex  and  sent 
regretful  glances  through  the  bearded  boughs.  That  glance  gave  us 
3.  suggestion.  A  house-mover  came.  A  cluck  to  his  horses  and  a 
click  of  the  pulley  chain,  and  the  last  reluctant  earth-born  tendril 
let  go  its  hold.  The  great  root  was  severed  from  the  main  trunk  a 
few  feet  from  the  point  of  incorporation,  and  lo,  a  thing  of  beauty  ! 
Of  tint  like  the  deepest  redwood,  elbowed,  gnarled,  with  bark  like 
bits  of  raveled  silk,  this  underground  octopus  was  just  what  we  had 
wanted.  The  stem  was  buried,  holding  the  root  aloft,  in  the  front 
yard  ten  feet  from  the  window.  Visitors  lifted  their  hands  in  won- 
der. The  birds  also  wondered.  From  wondering  they  ventured,  and 
from  venturing  they  loved.  An  Australian  pea  vine  was  planted  at 
its  base  and  soon  crowned  its  pinnacled  summit. 

This  leafless  tree  became  our  Bird's  Commercial  House.  Among 
the  roots  we  tangled  all  sorts  of  nesting  materials,  big  and  little 
strings,  last  year's  fluffy  pampas  plumes,  lichens  from  arroyo  witch- 
nooks,  strips  of  rag,  soft  and  old,  hair  combings  left  over  from  the 
stable  currycomb,  and — ^happiest  thought  of  all — white,  downy,  sur- 
geon*s  cotton.  Now  this  cotton  has  turned  the  head  of  every  bird  at- 
tracted to  it.  The  earliest  to  nest  was  the  hummer,  and  she  had  the 
choice  of  materials.  Nothing  was  suitable  until  she  was  ready  for 
the  lining.  She  poised  above  the  cotton  with  slender  black  beak,  and 
tore  the  gossamer  apart  like  strands  of  spider*s  web.     So  fascinated 


28  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

mas  she  by  the  new  fabric  that  she  lined  the  neat  far  above  the  riin. 
and  rebuilt  the  outer  to  fit  the  inner.  With  the  cotton  web  she  min- 
g:led  bits  of  pampas  feathers. 

Next  in  turn  came  the  bushtit.  The  smallest  of  all  the  birds  save 
the  hummer ;  this  little  tit  showed  us  how  she  can  form  the  largest 
nest  of  any  in  comparison  with  the  size  of  the  builder.  Lihe  Ihc 
hummer,  she  used  little  of  our  material  until  ready  for  the  lining. 
Then  she  lost  her  wits  over  the  cotton.  She  pulled  it  to  bits  and 
looked  to  see  it  fly  away  in  the  wind.  She  thrust  her  head  far  into 
the  snowy  billow  of  it  and  covered  herself.  She  flew  with  it  drip- 
ping from  her  beak,  and  left  a  trail  from  branch  to  branch  of  the 
nearest  tree.  She  snatched  it  from  the  linnet  if  this  bird  essayed  to 
take  a  portion.  She  packed  it  into  the  bottom  of  her  pocket  nest  far 
atiove  the  usual  limits  of  the  lining.  She  crept  up  and  down  the  out- 
side and  peeped  in  at  the  round  doorway  with  keenest  satisfaction. 
She  chatted  about  that  cotton  to  her  little  gray  lord,  who  also  made 
hearty  comments.  But  alas  for  the  "  best  laid  schemes."  It  was  ab- 
sorbent cotton  :  There  came  a  March  rain  and  blew  directly  in  at 
the  open  door  of  that  bushtit's  nest.     In  a  few  hours  we  knew  it  was 


WHEN    THE    BIRDS    ARE    NESTING.  29 

dcitertcd.  With  g'uilty  speculations  we  looked  in  and  beheld  three 
little  unclothed  babies  lying  snut{  in  a  pool  of  rain  water. 

That  was  a  year  ag'o,  but  Madame  Bushtit  still  carries  the  cotton 
at  nesting'  time,  though  we  substituted  cotton  battin);  for  the  absorb- 
ent kind.  A  yellow  warbler  was  induced  to  neat  on  the  grounds, 
from  the  pine  root  bait  we  set.  She  took  cotton  only,  and  day  by 
day  in  a.  crotch  of  the  pepper  the  little  white  pile  ^rew  and  spread 
out,  its  extreme  whiteness  contrasting  well  with  the  lemon  yellow 
of  the  beautiful  bird.  When  it  was  done  she  lined  the  cup  with  fj^rey 
hairs  from  the  combings  of  a  certain  lady  who  will  not  waste  so 
trivial  a  thing.  If  the  birds  want  it,  give  it  to  them  I  Time  is  so 
kind  to  turn  one's  brown  hair  white  to  make  the  lining  of  a  yellow 
warbler's  nest! 

The  mockers  and  the  towhees  each  take  what  they  can  find  in  the 
commercial  house,  excepting  the  cotton.  They  go  dragging  strings 
and  white  rags  across  the  grass,  looking  behind  (hem  for  a.  possible 
end,  and  trying  to  manage  altogether  too  much  at  a  time. 

Sweet  little  black-headed  phoebe,  who  would  come   right  in  at  the 


4    MODEKN    "I.BA 


30  LANO    OF    SUNSHINE. 

door  after  stray  house  flies  but  for  the  wire  screens — she  cares  for 
nothing'  at  the  pine  store.  She  wants  mud.  Wc  have  not  sect)  more 
than  one  nest  nnder  the  same  caves,  though  we  have  set  our  cigar 
box  traps  year  by  year.  Phoetie  drives  away  the  swallows  if  they 
chance  along,  and  even  her  own  people  are  repulsed.  She  has  built 
her  house  low  under  the  north  eaves  for  years.  We  leave  the  hydrant  ' 
adrip  on  purpose  for  phuebe.  But  it  is  not  mud  alone  that  allures 
her.  The  ground  is  full  of  little  rootlets  that  travel  long  distances 
for  a  drink  and  emerge  at  the  surface  greedy  for  the  precious  moist- 
ure. Phoet>e  mixes  the  rootlets  with  the  mud  and  so  makes  a  re- 
spectable mortar  that  lasts.  She  began  lining  the  nest  with  bits 
from  the  jute  door-mat.  We  raveled  the  ends  on  purpose,  of  course. 
Nothing  that  birds  can  have  possible  use  for  is  thrown  into  the  fire 
at  our  house.  We  thought  this  jute  stuff  a  triHe  harsh,  so  we  threw 
down  some  fur  from  a  gtiztly  bear  skin.     Phuebe  liked  the  looks  of 


!AK.  IN    FOUB  OF  FlC    TsHI 


WHEN    THE    BIRDS    ARE    NESTING.  31 

it  and  was  swinging  her  usually  slow  g'ait  close  to  the  ground  when 
a  flock  of  intermediate  sparrows  caught  sight  of  it.  Now  these 
visiting  sparrows  nest  far  north  where  grizzly  bear  nest-lining  may 
be  picked  in  any  quantity  from  tree  trunks  where  the  moulting 
animals  have  rubbed.  Either  the  memory  of  the  sparrows  was 
roused  at  the  sight,  or  they  forgot  for  the  moment  they  were  far 
from  their  nesting  place.  They  made  a  dash  for  the  familiar  brown 
fur.  They  pecked  mouthfuls  of  it,  and  dropped  it,  picked  it  up  and 
tossed  it.  Then  phoebe  gave  a  wail,  the  usual  plaintive  cry  which 
she  imagines  is  a  song,  and  there  came  a  hand  to  hand  fight  for  the 
fur.  The  sparrows  retreated  to  the  fence  where  they  talked  the 
matter  over. 

At  this  writing,  March  8,  phoebe  is  brooding  above  three  shirtless 
infants,  on  the  fifth-floor  flat  under  the  stable  ea  ves.  Year  by  year 
she  makes  a  new  layer  of  adobe,  loving  the  spot,  though  we  handle 
the  birdlings,  while  she  nips  at  our  shoulders  and  hair.  She  knows 
we  will  not  harm  them.  One  time  the  linnet  stole  the  nest  when 
phoebe  wasn't  looking  and  laid  her  own  eggs  in  it.  Phoebe  used  all 
the  terms  of  the  law  to  oust  her  rival  but  linnet  wouldn't  budge. 
Phoebe  brought  her  husband,  and  together  they  pulled  at  linnet's 
shoulder,  to  no  avail.  Old  man  phoebe  left  the  scene  in  disgust, 
while  mother  phoebe  had  to  wait  her  turn  for  the  next  possession. 

The  phcebcs'  nest  is  always  of  dark  stuff,  as  also  is  the  only  nest 
of  the  black-headed  grosbeak  we  have  seen  in  our  grounds.  This 
beautiful  singer  lingered  about  till  mid-summer  and  then  concluded 
to  stay  the  year  out.  By  being  out  among  the  trees  in  advance  of 
the  first  sunbeam  we  discovered  the  nest  in  an  elbow  of  the  fig-tree. 
It  was  made  of  dark  little  sticks,  or  last  year's  stems  of  fig  leaves^ 
and  so  transparent  that  we  could  see  the  eggs  distinctly  while  look- 
ing up  from  beneath.  Not  a  bit  of  soft  lining,  just  black  sticks  laid 
criss-iCross.  It  was  as  if  the  builder  knew  that,  being  mid-summer 
and  in  the  most  delightful  climate  in  the  world,  ventilation  was  the 
sanitary  order. 

The  oriole  comes  early,  examining  the  tender  new  leaves  of  the 
frost-lritten  banana,  regretfully  leaving  them  for  the  blue  gum,  after 
satisfying  herself  that  they  are  too  immature  for  her  hammock.  The 
banana  leaves  will  ripen  in  time  for  the  next  brood.  In  the  blue  gum 
she  built  a  lean-to  by  the  side  of  last  year's  nest,  and  attached  to  it, 
of  the  palm  fiber,  which  is  her  delight,  and  which  we  often  strip  for 
her  and  lay  in  tempting  spread  on  our  commercial  counter.  The 
present  addition  to  her  previous  nest  is  yellow  and  fresh  while  that  of 
last  year  is  Weather  beaten  and  mildewed. 

Except  September,  October  and  November,  every  month  in  the 
year  is  nesting  time  with  us,  When  the  late  peaches  turn  their 
rosiest  cheek  to  the  autumn  sun,  and  the  almond  husk  opens  its  pale 
lips,  then  are  the  structures  which  were  so  lately  the  center  of  solici- 
tude tenantless  and  neglected.  Old  birds  in  passing  take  no  notice  of 
them  and  the  hungry  juveniles  pay  no  visible  heed.  What  care  they 
for  cradles,  now  that  their  sole  cry  is  the  universal  **  Bread  and 
butter,  please  ?"  Baby  zephyrs  nap  on  the  worn-out  lining,  and  the 
rain  runs  its  slim  fingers  through  the  parting  meshes.  Even  the 
domestic  feline,  who  was  wont  to  inquire  into  the  heart  of  every 
bunch  of  grass  and  twigs,  no  longer  wastes  time  in  study  of  the  nest- 
ing habits  of  birds.  She  will  resume  her  investigations  next  year, 
provided  she  falls  not  a  victim  to  the  single  barrel  Remington  behind 
the  door. 

Pasadena,  Cal. 


Plioto.  by  Lee  Miiorelinase,  PendleK 

She  Dreams 

She  dreams  all  day  out  in  the  sun. 

And  gathers  to  her,  one  by  one, 

Each  bygone  season  ;  heat  and  snow 
From  dim  wild  glade  and  bold  plateau 

She  calls  and  counts  them  all,  and  none 

Escape  her  beck,  none  does  she  shun  ; 
Of  days  wee-tee-tash, —  long  ago 
She  dreams. 

Snug  in  a  brilliant  blanket  spun 
From  finest  wool ;  her  warm  thoughts  run 
In  channels  weird,  till  phantoms  flow 
In  stirring  deeds  of  friend  and  foe  ; 
Of  times  and  scenes  that  now  are  done 
crni.  cai.  She  dreams. 


The  White  Otter. 

Y,"  said  the  captain  of  the  "  Jane 
Marie,"  "  the  man  that  shoots  the 
White  Otter  digs  his  own  grave." 

"The     White   Otter?"     I    answered. 
"There  is  no  such  thing." 

"Oh,  ain't   they  1"  said  the  captain  of 
the  "  Jane  Marie." 

She  was  a  sea-otter  hunter  of  twenty 
tons,  the  "  Jane  Marie,"  as  handy  a  little  fore-and-after  as 
ever  beat  about  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel  Islands  in  pur- 
suit of  that  rare  and  valuable  animal  whose  pelt  brings  an 
almost  fabulous  price  from  furriers.  She  had  caught  the 
slant  of  west  wind  that  always  blows  down  channel  on 
summer  afternoons,  off  San  Miguel  island,  and  was  run- 
ning now  to  make  the  strait  between  Santa  Rosa  and  Santa 
Cruz  islands,  and  so  to  square  away  for  San  Nicolas,  where 
it  was  reported  that  game  was  plenty.  She  was  making 
good  weather  of  it,  too,  although  the  breeze  was  strong  ; 
wing  and  wing,  with  both  jibs  set,  and  every  inch  draw- 
ing. The  captain  was  at  the  wheel,  as  he  generally  was 
in  the  daytime,  and  her  crew  of  four  men  and  two  hunters 
were  all  stretched  on  the  deck  aft,  smoking  and  soaking 
the  wann  sunshine  into  themselves,  probably  in  compensa- 
tion for  past  and  future  wettings,  when  they  followed  their 
hazardous  calling  in  the  heavy  surf  that  rages  always 
about  those  Channel  islands.  For  the  sea  otter  is  a  wary 
beast,  and  getting  scarce  as  wary,  and  must  be  followed  in 
small  boats — and  shot  from  them,  too,  tossing  up  and  down 
on  the  waves — right  into  the  foaming  surf  through  which 
he  chases  his  own  prey. 

I  had  been  taken  a  passenger  on  the  "Jane  Marie,"  by 
special  favor,  and  after  I  had  been  days  on  board,  and  my 
tobacco  had  been  found  to  be  of  the  best  and  offered  with- 
out taint  of  patronage,  I  had  also  been  admitted  to  a 
species  of  toleration  by  these  hardy  otter  hunters.  The 
*  Jane  Marie"  was  making  good  weather  of  it,  and  the 
captain  luffed  her  to  meet  the  green  seas  that  came  rolling 
through  the  Santa  Rosa  strait.  A  whale  was  tumbling 
among  the  waves  at  a  little  distance,  clumsily,  and  the 
seas  broke  upon  his  brown  back  when  it  showed  above  the 
surface  as  though  he  had  been  a  bit  of  a  lee  shore  gone 
adrift,  and  the  whale-birds  flew  screaming  above  the  masts 
of  the  schooner.  Down  to  windwalrd  we  could  see  a  file  of 
great  pelicans  lazily  flapping  their  way  toward  their  home 
on  the  crags  of  Anacapa  island. 


3^  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 


»( 
(( 


The  captain  of  the  Jane  Marie"  luflFed  to  meet  another 
gfreen  sea,  and  then  he  said  again,  but  with  more  delibera- 
tion, pulling  his  black  pii>e  out  of  his  mouth  to  be  used  as 
an  aid  to  emphatic  gesticulation,  **  Oh,  ain't  they  1" 

'*  Why,  no,"  I  answered.  "  Who  ever  heard  of  a  White 
Otter?" 

I  had  discovered,  early  in  our  acquaintance,  that  the  way 
to  the  captain's  heart  was  by  judicious  contradiction,  but  it 
must  be  most  judicious.  I  went  no  farther,  therefore,  than 
the  remark  above  set  down. 

**Why,  I'll  tell  you,  young  man,"  the  captain  said  to 
this,  laying  down  his  course,  so  to  say,  with  the  black  pipe, 
as  he  went  on.  **  There's  a  White  Otter  lives  on  Anacapa 
island,  in  a  cave.  And  the  man  that  shoots  it  digs  his  own 
grave.     You  remember  Tony  Garcia,  Bill  ?" 

*'  Aye,"  growled  one  of  the  swarthy  hunters,  lying  on  his 
back  in  the  sun. 

Well,  Tony  knowed.     Ton}^  could  'a'  told  you." 
And  where  is  Tony  now  ?"  I  asked,  respectfully. 
"  Well,  I  dunno,"  and  the  captain  smiled  grimly.     "  All 
that  we  found  of  him  is  buried  up  by  the  Mission  in  Santa 
Barbara." 

*'Oh;  he  is  dead?" 
*'  I  believe  you.     Dead  's  a  mackerel." 
'*  What  killed  him?" 

**  How  do  I  know  what  killed  him?  He  shot  the  White 
Otter.     That's  all  I  know.     Eh,  Bill  ?  " 

"And  that's  enough  too,"  growled  Bill,  taking  the  pipe 
out  of  his  mouth  and  turning  his  back  to  the  sun,  by  way 
of  getting  warmed  through.  **But  I'd  like  a  chanst  at 
him  myself,  jist  the  same." 

No  ?  Would  you,  though.  Bill  ?"  asked  the  captain. 
Would  I  ?  Jist  try  me,  that's  all." 
Bill  relapsed  into  warm  silence,  and  the  captain  smoked 
for  a  season,  which  I  was  careful  not  to  interrupt.  I  knew 
the  weather  signs.  Then  he  took  the  black  pipe  out  of  his 
mouth  and  said,  very  slowly,  watching  the  tumbling  water 
all  the  time.  "  Well,  I  dunno.  Tony  Garcia  was  as  good 
a  hunter  and  as  quick  a  shot  as  ever  I  see.  He  never 
missed  an  otter,  shot  'em  in  the  head  every  pop,  an'  seals 
was  barn  doors  to  him.  Well,  as  I  was  a-tellin'  you,  Tony 
shot  the  White  Otter.     That  was  the  last  o'  him." 

There  was  another  interval  of  silence,  then  he  went  on  : 
I  suppose  from  what  you  said  jist  now,  you  never  heard 
of  the  White  Otter.  Most  people  never  did.  Otters  is 
mostly  brown,  though  lookin'  black  in  the  surf,  an'  occa- 
sional you'll  find  an  old  one  with  the  tips  of  its  fur  turned 
gray.    But  a  real  white  otter  is  rare.    Some  says  they  ain't 


(C 


it 


(i  t 

Ci   4 


THE    WHITE   OTTER.  35 

no  snch  thing: — not  gfreenhorns,  like  you,  but  real  otter- 
hunters — ^but  all  the  men  that  ever  hunted  among  these 
islands  knows  better.  The'  is  a  White  Otter  lives  clost  by 
a  cave  on  the  west  end  of  Anacapa,  an'  it  comes  out  in  the 
channel,  too,  fishin',  odd  times.  Well,  if  that  otter's  been 
shot  wunst,  it's  been  shot  fifty  times,  an'  always  the  man 
that  shoots  it  digs  his  own  grave.  But  he  don't  never  git 
the  otter." 

Did  you  ever  see  it,  captain?"  I  ventured. 
I  was  with  Tony  when  he  shot  it.  He  was  one  o'  my 
hunters.  That  was  in  the  season  o'  '73.  We  made  a  good 
year,  at  San  Nicolas  mostly,  an'  was  beatin'  up  around 
Anacapa  more  to  say  we  had  taken  in  all  the  islands  than 
because  we  wanted  more  skins,  when  it  happened.  We 
was  off  the  west  end  of  the  island,  an'  I  was  about  to 
square  away  for  Santa  Barbara,  the  wind  being  fair,  when 
Tony,  who  was  a-layin'  on  the  deck  a-roUin'  a  cigarette 
says  to  me:  *Cap,  ain't  it  right  about  here  somewhere  the 
White  Otter  uses  ?'  ^ 

*'  'Yes,' says  I.  '  About  here,  an'  as  fur  away  as  Santa 
Rosa  channel.' 

But  ain't  his  home  here  ? '  says  Tony. 
Right  in  that  cave  there,'  says  I.  We  was  a-layin' 
clost  in,  an'  you  could  see  the  black  hole  down  by  the 
water.  There  wasn't  a  breaker  on  the  lee  side  of  the  island 
at  that  time  of  the  day,  and  the  sea  was  smooth  as  glass, 
with  just  an  easy  swell,  an'  the  water  was  clear. 

"  *Well,  Cap,'  says  Tony,  'it  'd  be  a  great  thing  to  cap 
our  catch  with  a  snowy  skin.  I'm  a-goin'  to  have  a  try  for 
the  White  Otter.' 

'"Better  let  him  alone,'  I  says.  '  You  know  the  cost.' 
" '  Damn  the  cost,'  says  Tony.  '  I  want  that  skin.' 
"When  a  man's  hunters  wants  to  hunt,  he  lets  'em. 
Well,  we  lowefed  the  boat,  an'  Tony  took  his  rifle  an'  we 
rowed  in  toward  the  island.  I  give  my  mate  the  wheel, 
because  I  always  went  along  in  the  boat,  and  told  him  to 
keep  her  off  an'  wait  for  us.  It  ain't  nothin'  but  a  rock, 
that  Anacapa,  an'  right  where  that  cave  was  it  rose  out  of 
the  deep  water  clear  five  hundred  feet  before  there  was  a 
ledge,  a  seagull  could  perch  on.  We  rowed  straight  in,  the 
swell  liftin'  us  an'  helpin'  us  on — and,  by  God,  right  in  the 
mouth  of  the  dark  cave  we  see  a  white  siwt  movin'  on 
the  swell,  risin'  an'  fallin',  as  the  water  rose  an'  fell,  an' 
now  an'  then  makin'  a  little  splashin'.  Tony  was  a-siandin' 
in  the  bow,  an'  he  saw  the  white  spot  first.  He  motioned 
us  to  go  slow,  an'  we  went  creepin'  in,  closter  an'  closter, 
the  oars  scarcely  makin'  a  sound  in  the  water.  Then  Tony 
motioned  us  to  stop  rowin'.    We  held  her  there  while  he 


36  LAND   OF   SUNSHiNE. 

took  aim,  slow  an'  deliberate.  He  shot.  We  saw  a  great 
splashin'  at  the  mouth  of  the  dark  cave,  a  great  splashin', 
and  the  white  water  turned  red. 

*'  'By  God,  I've  got  him  I '  yelled  Tony,  jumpin'  up  an' 
down  in  the  bow.  '  Pull,  boys  I  Grod  damn  you  I  Pull, 
pull  I ' 

"We  pulled  for  all  we  knew,  an'  sure  enough,  the  water 
at  the  mouth  of  the  cave  was  all  bloody,  an'  there  was  a 
streak  of  blood  leading  toward  the  dark  inside,  but  we 
couldn't  see  nothin'  of  the  White  Otter.  We  even  rowed 
into  the  cave  as  fur  as  we  could,  an'  further  than  the  day- 
light went,  but  the  game  wasn't  there,  an'  a  shelf  of  rock 
brought  us  up  short. 

*'  *  I  tell  you,  I  got  him  !  I  see  him  go  in  here  I '  cried 
Tony,  almost  foamin'  at  the  mouth,  he  was  so  mad.  *Damn 
my  soul  if  I'm  a-goin'  to  be  fooled  by  no  otter.  I'm  a-goin' 
in  after  him.' 

**  Before  any  of  us  could  stop  him,  he  jumped  out  on  the 
shelf  o'  rock,  and  was  making  his  way  along  in.  The  cave 
got  narrower  as  it  went  in,  an'  a  good  climber  could  worm 
his  way  above  the  water,  but  it  was  a  scary  place,  an'  the 
tide  filled  it  at  high  water:  I  shouted  to  Tony  to  come 
back,  but  he  only  laughed  an'  swore  he  would  have  the 
White  Otter.  We  couldn't  see  him,  but  we  could  hear  him 
in  the  cave  scramblin'  over  the  wet  rocks,  an'  sendin  back 
double  the  noi^e  he  made,  in  echoes. 

"Well,  presently,  that  noise  stopped,  an'  there  was 
silence.  It  was  beginnin'  to  git  cold  in  the  cave,  an'  my 
backbone  felt 's  if  sumbody  was  a-rubbin'  bits  of  ice  along 
it.  We  tried  shoutin'  to  him,  but  such  fiendish  shouts 
came  back  that  that  was  worse  than  the  silence.  I  thought 
I  better  back  out  into  the  sunshine  to  wait  for  him,  and 
was  jist  a-givin'  the  word,  in  a  whisper,  when  there  came 
out  of  the  dark  hole  in  front  of  us  a  cry  so  Scary  that  the 
men  drove  their  oars  into  the  water  an'  sent  the  boat  a 
hundred  yards  ofF  shore  before  I  could  stop  'em.  Then  I 
give  'em  a  cussin',  an'  we  went  back  an'  shouted  into  the 
cave,  an'  rowed  in  's  fur  's  we  could.  We  didn't  see 
nothin',  an'  we  got  no  answer  but  the  echoes. 

"The  next  ebb  tide  brought  out  his  body.  There  was 
blue  marks  about  the  neck,  an'  the  face  had  a  look  on  it 
that  made  us  want  to  keep  ft  covered  until  we  handed  it 
over  to  the  Coroner  at  Santa  Barbara." 

One  of  the  sailors  had  arisen  and  gone  forward  at  the 
conclusion  of  the  story.  He  was  holding  on  by  the  flying- 
jib  stay,  and  he  shouted:  "Hi,  Bill  I  git  your  rifle  an' 
come  here." 

Bill,  the  otter  hunter,  sprang  to  his  feet,  went  below  and 


THE    WHITE   OTTER.  37 

secured  his  Sharp's  rifle,  and  rushed  forward  fixing  a  shell 
in  the  breech.  We  had  all  gone  forward,  indeed,  but  the 
skipper,  who  still  sat  smoking  at  the  wheel.  The  man  in 
the  bow  was  pointing  straight  ahead  of  the  schooner,  and 
there,  not  fifty  yards  away,  playing  in  the  waves  like  a 
dog,  was  a  snow-white  otter.  Bill  passed  the  man  who 
had  called  him.  He  crept  out  upon  the  jib  boom  to  its  ex- 
treme end,  steadying  himself  by  the  ropes,  and  stood  there 
with  one  arm  wrapped  about  the  halliard  as  the  schooner 
dipped  her  nose  into  the  seas.  The  White  Otter  played 
ahead  of  him,  like  a  dog,  and  we  watched  him  breathless 
as  he  sighted  for  a  shot.  It  was  snap  shooting,  at  best, 
but  wonderfully  clever.  The  rifle  spoke,  and  the  White 
Otter  sprang  half  out  of  water,  leaving  a  crimson  stain  in 
the  waves. 

"Got  him,  by  God  I "  shouted  Bill. 

Then,  even  as  he  turned  to  make  his  way  along  the  boom 
to  the  deck,  letting  go  of  the  halliard  for  a  moment  to 
swing  the  gun  to  his  left  hand,  a  green  sea  caught  and 
pooped  the  'Jane  Marie."  We  were  all  thrown  forward,  • 
catching  at  what  we  could,  and  as  I  fell  I  saw  the  skipper, 
high  above  me,  up  to  his  waist  in  water.  Her  nose  was 
driven  down  into  the  sea.  The  sails  slatted.  The  jib 
halliard  parted,  and  the  sail  came  down  with  a  run.  Then 
she  slowly  lifted  up  her  nose  again,  and  as  I  struggled  to 
my  feet  I  saw  that  the  man  Bill  was  gone  from  the  jib 
txxmi.  JMst  at  the  moment,  it  did  not  occur  to  me  what 
had  happened.  I  made  my  way  back  to  the  skipper,  who 
was  turning  her  wheel  like  mad,  and  shouting  orders  that 
to  me  were  perfectly  unintelligible.  Everything  was  ship- 
shape again  in  ten  minutes,  and  the  captain  slowly  cleaned 
the  salt  water  out  of  his  pipe  and  lighted  it. 

"I  see  him  go  down  as  the  sea  drove  her  over  the  spot 
where  he  was  pitched  off,"  he  said,  slowly,  "  an'  they  was 
a  white  streak  goin'  down  alongside  of  him,  an'  fastened 
onto  him.     He  won't  never  come  up  no  more." 

And,  although  we  cruised  about  the  place  until  sunset, 
he  never  did. 

Venlnra,  C»l. 


38 

Early  California  History. 

THE  EXPEDITIONS  OF  1769. 

[conci^udkd] 

The  Soldiers  of  the  Garrison  of  the  Calif  or  nias — of  whom  justice 
and  equity  obligee  us  to  say  that  they  toiled  infinitely  in  this  Bzpedi- 
tion — use  two  sort  of  arms,  offensive  and  defensive.  The  defensive 
are  the  Cuera  [leather  jacket]  and  the  Adarga  [shield] .  The  first, 
whose  make  is  like  that  of  a  coat  without  sleeves,  is  composed  of  six 
or  seven  thicknesses  [az^s,  for  hazes}  of  white  skins  of  Deer,  tanned 
[ag'amuzadas] ,  impenetrates  to  the  arrows  of  the  Indians,  as  they 
are  not  discharged  from  very  near.  The  Adarga  is  of  two  thick- 
nesses of  Bullhide,  raw.  It  is  managed  with  the  left  arm,  and  with 
it  lances  or  arrows  are  deflected,  the  Trooper  defending  himself  and 
his  Horse.  They  use,  beside  the  aforesaid,  a  species  of  apron 
[delantal]  of  leather,  fastened  to  the  pommel  of  the  saddle  with  a 
fall  to  each  side,  which  they  call  **  armas"  or  defenses,  which  cover 
their  thighs  and  legs  so  as  not  to  be  hurt  when  running  in  the 
Woods  [Monte] .  Their  offensive  weapons  are  the  lance,  which  they 
manage  dextrously  on  Horseback ;  the  broadsword,  and  a  short 
Escopeta  [flintlock  musket]  which  they  carry  thrust  into  and  made 
fast  in  its  sheath.  They  are  Men  of  much  endurance  and  long-suf- 
fering under  fatigue  ;  obedient,  resolute,  agile  ;  and  we  do  not  hesi- 
tate to  say  they  are  the  best  Troopers  in  the  world,  and  of  those 
Soldiers  who  best  earn  the  Bread  of  the  August  Monarch  whom  they 
serve. 

It  [must  be]  well  considered  that  the  marches  of  these  Troops, 
with  such  a  Train  and  with  such  embarrassments  thro'  unknown 
Lands  and  unused  paths,  could  not  be  long  ones :  leaving  aside  the 
other  cause  which  obliged  them  to  halt  and  camp  early  [in  the  after- 
noon]— that  is  to  say,  the  necessity  of  exploring  the  land  one  day 
for  the  next,  so  as  to  regulate  them  [the  marches]  according  to  the 
distance  of  the  watering-places  and  to  take  in  consequence  the 
proper  precautions ;  setting  forth  [again]  on  special  occasions  in 
the  evening,  after  having  given  water  to  the  Beasts  in  that  same 
hour,  upon  the  sure  information  that  in  the  following  stretch  there 
was  no  [water]  or  that  the  watering  place  was  low,  or  the  Pasture 
scarce. 

The  restings  were  measured  by  the  necessity,  every  four  days, 
more  or  less,  according  to  the  extraordinary  fatigue  occasioned  by 
the  greater  roughness  of  the  road,  the  toil  of  the  Pioneers,  or  the 
wandering-off  of  the  Beasts  which  were  missing  from  the  Horse- 
herd  and  [which]  it  was  necessary  to  seek  by  their  tracks.  At 
other  times,  by  the  necessity  of  humoring  the  Sick,  when  there  were 
any — and  with  time  there  were  many  who  yielded  up  their  strength 
to  the  continued  fatigue,  the  excessive  heat  and  cruel  cold. 

But  the  greatest  risk  of  these  Voyages,  and  the  enemy  most  to  be 
dreaded,  is  this  same  Caballada  [horse-herd],  without  which,  in- 
deed, the  [voyage]  could  not  be  made.  In  a  Country  they  do  not 
know,  these  Animals  frighten  themselves  by  night  with  incredible 
facility.  To  stampede  them  (in  the  phrase  of  this  Lrand),  it  is  enough 
for  them  to  discover  a  Coyote  or  Fox.  A  Bird  which  passes  flying, 
the  dust  which  the  wind  flings — these  are  capable  of  terrifying  them 
and  making  them  run  many  leagues,  precipitating  themselves  over 
Barrancas  and  Precipices,  without  any  human  effort  availing  to  re- 
strain them.  Afterward,  it  cost  immense  toil  to  gather  them  again,  and 
it  is  not  always  attainable.  Those  that  have  not  died  by  falling  down 
precipices,  or  crippled  themselves  in  their  impetuous  runaway  [car- 
reruj  lit.  race]  remain  of  no  service  for  much  time.    But  this  Bxpedi- 


EAFa.Y    CALIFORNIA    HISTORY,  39 

tion  did  not  ez];)erience  serious  backsets  by  the  like  casualty,  thanks 
to  the  care  and  vigilance  which  were  always  observed ;  for  altho' 
on  some  occasions  the  animals  were  stampeded,  no  fatality  or  damage 
followed,  because  it  [the  stampede]  was  of  short  duration. 

In  the  form  and  according  to  the  method  related,  the  Spaniards 
executed  their  marches  ;  traversing  immense  Lands,  more  fertile  and 
more  pleasing  [alegres]  in  proportion  as  they  penetrated  more  to  the 
North.  All  in  general  are  peopled  with  a  multitude  of  Indians,  who 
came  out  to  meet  them  and  in  [some]  parts  accompanied  them  from 
one  stage  [of  the  journey]  to  the  next ;  a  Folk  very  docile  and 
tractable  [mansa]^  chiefly  from  San  Diego  onward. 

The  Indians  in  whom  was  recognized  more  vivacity  and  industry 
are  those  that  inhabit  the  Islands  and  the  Coast  of  the  Santa  Barbara 
Channel.  They  live  in  Pueblos  [villages]  whose  Houses  are  of 
spherical  form  in  the  fashion  of  a  half  Orange,  covered  with  Rushes 
[JSnea].  They  are  up  to  20  varas  [55  feet]  in  diameter.  Bach  House 
contains  three  or  four  Families.  The  Hearth  is  in  the  middle,  and 
in  the  top  of  the  House  they  leave  a  vent  or  chimney  to  give  exit  for 
the  smoke.  In  nothing  did  these  Gentiles  give  the  lie  to  the  affa- 
bility and  good  treatment  which  were  experienced  [at  their  hands] 
in  otiier  times  [1602]  by  the  Spaniards  who  landed  upon  those  Coasts 
with  the  Greneral  Sebastian  Vizcayno.  They  are  of  good  figure  and 
aspect.  Men  and  Women  ;  very  much  g^ven  to  [anti^'os  de\  painting 
and  staining  with  red  ochre  their  faces  and  bodies.  They  use  great 
headdresses  [penachos]  of  feathers,  and  some  banderillas  [small 
darts]  which  they  bind  up  amid  their  hair,  with  various  trinkets  and 
beads  of  Coral  of  various  colors.  The  Men  go  entirely  naked,  but  in 
time  of  cold  they  sport  [gasian]  some  long  capes  of  tanned  skins  of 
Nutrias  [otters  or  muskrats  indifferently,  in  the  Southwest],  and  some 
mantles  made  of  the  same  skins  cut  in  long^trips,  which  they  twist 
in  such  manner  that  all  the  fur  remains  outside ;  then  they  weave 
these  strands  one  with  another,  forming  a  weft,  and  give  it  the  pat- 
tern referred  to. 

The  Women  go  with  more  decency,  girt  about  the  waist  with 
tanned  skins  of  Deer  which  cover  them  in  front  and  behind  more 
than  half  down  the  leg,  and  with  a  mantelet  Icapolillo]  of  Nutria 
over  the  body.  There  are  [some  of  them]  with  good  features. 
These  are  [the  Indian  women]  who  make  the  trays  and  vases  of 
rushes*,  to  the  which  they  give  a  thousand  different  forms  and  grace- 
ful patterns,  according  to  the  uses  to  which  they  are  destined, 
whether  it  he  for  eating,  drinking,  guarding  their  seeds,  or  other 
ends ;  for  these  Peoples  do  not  know  the  use  of  earthenware  as  those 
of  San  Diego  use  it. 

The  Men  work  handsome  trays  of  wood,  with  firm  inlays  of  coral 
or  of  bone ;  and  some  vases  of  much  capacity,  closing  at  the  mouth, 
which  appear  to.  be  made  with  a  lathe — and  with  this  machine  they 
would  not  come  out  better  hollowed  nor  of  more  perfect  form.  They 
gpive  the  whole  a  luster  which  appears  the  finished  handiwork  of  a 
skilled  Artisan.  The  large  vessels  which  hold  Water  are  of  a  very 
strong  weave  of  rushes  \junco]  pitched  within  ;  and  they  give  them 
the  same  form  as  our  ttnigas  [water  jars]. 

To  eat  the  Seeds  which  they  use  [gastan]  in  place  of  Bread,  they 
toast  them  first  in  great  trays,  putting  among  the  Seeds  some  pet>- 
bles  or  small  stones  heated  until  red ;  then  they  move  and  shake  the 
tray  so  it  may  not  bum  ;  and  getting  the  Seed  sufficiently  toasted  they 
grind  it  in  mortars  or  almireces  of  stone  [almirez  is  a  brass  mortar  J. 
Of  these  mortars  there  are  [some]  of  extraordinary  size,  as  well 
wrought  as  if  they  had   had   for   the  purpose  the  best  steel  tools 

*BaUaa  y  vatijaa  dtfunco:  referrinff,  of  coarse,  to  the  now  famous  and  costly  Cali- 
fornia Indian  baskets. 


^  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

[herramtenias] .  The  constancy,  attention  to  trifles,  and  labor  which 
they  employ  in  finishing*  these  pieces  are  well  worthy  of  admiration. 
[The  mortars  are]  so  appreciated  among  themselves  that  for  those 
who  dying  leave  behind  such  handiworks,  they  are  wont  to  place 
them  over  the  spot  where  they  are  buried,  that  the  memory  of  their 
skill  and  application  may  not  be  lost.* 

They  inter  their  dead.  They  have  their  Cemeteries  within  the 
very  Pueblo.  The  funerals  of  their  Captains  they  make  with  great 
pomp,  and  set  up  over  their  bodies  some  rods  or  poles,  extremely 
tall,  from  which  they  hang  a  variety  of  utensils  and  chattels  which 
were  used  by  them.  They  likewise  put  in  the  same  place  some  great 
planks  of  Pine,  with  various  paintings  and  figures,  in  which  without 
doubt  they  explain  the  exploits  and  prowesses  of  the  Personage. 

Plurality  of  wives  [mugeres]  is  not  lawful  among  these  Peoples. 
Only  the  Captains  have  a  right  to  marry  two.  In  all  their  Pueblos  the 
attention  was  taken  by  a  species  of  Men  who  lived  like  the  Women, 
kept  company  with  them,  dressed  in  the  same  garb,  adorned  them- 
selves with  beads,  pendants,  necklaces  and  other  Womanish  adorn- 
ments, and  enjoyed  great  consideration  among  the  people.  The 
lack  of  an  Interpreter  did  not  permit  [us]  to  find  out  what  class 
of  Men  they  were,  or  to  what  Ministry  they  were  destined ;  tho' 
all  suspect  a  defect  in  sex,  or  some  abuse  among  those  gentiles. 

In  their  Houses  the  Married  couples  have  their  separate  beds  on 
platforms  elevated  from  the  ground.  Their  mattresses  are  some 
simple  Petates  or  Mats  of  Rushes,  and  their  pillows  are  of  the  same 
Petates  rolled  up  at  the  head  [of  the  bed] .  All  these  beds  are  hung 
about  with  like  Mats,  which  serve  for  decency  and  protect  from  the 
cold. 

The  dexterity  and  skill  of  these  Indians  is  surpassing  in  the  con- 
struction of  their  Lrauncnes  made  of  Pine  planking  [tatlazon] .  They 
are  from  eight  to  ten  varas  [22  to  27^  feet]  in  length,  including  their 
rake,  and  of  a  vara  and  half  [4  feet  1>^  inches]  beam.  Into  their 
fabric  enters  no  iron  whatever,  of  the  use  of  which  they  know  little. 
But  they  fasten  the  boards  with  firmness,  one  to  another,  working 
their  drills  just  so  far  apart  and  at  a  distance  of  an  inch  from  the 
edge,  the  [holes]  in  the  upper  tx>anls  corresponding  with  those  in  the 
lower,  and  thro'  these  holes  they  pass  strong  lashings  of  Deer  sinews. 
They  pitch  and  calk  the  seams,  and  paint  the  whole  in  sightly  colors. 
They  handle  the  [boats]  with  equal  cleverness,  and  three*  or  four 
Men  go  out  to  the  open  sea  to  fish  in  them,  as  they  have  capacity  to 
carry  eight  or  ten.  They  use  long  oars  with  two  blades,  and  row 
with  unspeakable  lightness  and  velocity.  They  know  all  the  arts  of 
fishing,  and  Fish  abound  along  their  Coasts,  as  has  been  said  of 
San  Diego.  They  have  communication  and  Commerce  with  the  Na- 
tives of  the  Islands,  whence  they  get  the  beads  of  coral  which  are 
current  in  place  of  money  thro'  all  these  Lands  ;  altho'  they  hold  in 
more  esteem  the  glass  beads  which  the  Spaniards  gave  them — and 
offered  in  exchange  for  these  whatever  they  had,  like  trays.  Otter 
Skins,  baskets  and  wooden  plates.  More  than  anything  they  appre- 
ciate whatsoever  clasp-knife  [navaid]  or  cutting  instrument ;  whose 
advantages  over  the  [implements]  of  flint,  they  admire ;  it  causing 
them  much  satisfaction  to  see  use  made  of  the  axes  and  machetes, 
and  the  facility  with  which  the  soldiers,  to  make  firewood,  felled  a 
Tree  with  the  said  Instruments. 

They  are  likewise  great  Hunters.  To  kill  Deer  and  Antelopes,  they 
avail  Uiemselves  of  an  admirable  ingenuity.  They  preserve  the  hide 
of  the  head  and  part  of  the  neck  of  some  one  of  these  Animals, 
skinned  with  care  and  leaving  the  horns  [llaves^  lit.,  keys]  attached  to 

*This  cnstom  was  in  fact  to  "send  on**  the  implements  for  the  use  of  the  deceased 
in  the  next  world.— Cd. 


EARLY    CALIFORNIA    HISTORY. 


41 


the  same  hide,  which  they  stuff  with  grass  or  straw  to  keep  its  shape. 
They  put  this  said  shell  [armazon]  like  a  cap  upon  the  head  and 
go  forth  to  the  Woods  with  this  rare  equipage.  On  sighting  the  Deer 
or  Antelope,  they  go  dragging  themselves  along  the  Ground  little  by 
little,  with  the  left  hand.  In  the  right  they  carry  the  bow  and  four 
arrows.  They  lower  and  raise  the  head,  moving  it  to  one  side  and 
the  other,  and  making  other  demonstrations  so  like  these  Animals 
that  they  attract  them  without  difficulty  to  the  snare  ;  and  having 
them  within  a  short  distance,  they  discharge  their  arrows  at  them 
with  certainty  of  hitting. 

Among  them  were  seen  some  pieces  of  Broadsword,  iron  and  frag- 
ments of  wrought  silver ;  which,  being  of  small  amount,  seemed  a 
novelty  to  our  Folk.  And  asking  them  by  signs  how  they  acquired 
those  things,  they  made  signs  [they  got  them]  from  the  Interior  to- 
ward the  Bast.  And  altho'  New  Mexico  lies  very  distant  in  that 
direction,  it  is  possible  [/acHdle]  that  [passing]  from  hand  to  hand 
these  said  trinkets  [alhajas,  lit.  jewels]  may  have  come  into  their 
possession  in  time. 

Their  Tongue  is  sonorous  and  of  easy  pronunciation.  Some  be- 
lieve they  &id  in  it  a  certain  connection  with  the  Mexican  [i.e., 
A2tec],  in  that  the  L/  and  T  are  frequently  sounded  as  was  observed 
among  these  Natives.  But  those  who  know  [poseen]  the  Mexican 
can  better  infer  as  to  this  by  the  following  words  [vozes] : 

Words  of  the  said 
Toniroe 

Nucchd 

Kejuh^ 

Huachaii 

Chipucu 

Tocholo 

Tononomb 

PistocU 

Kippeju^ 

Acteme 

Tomol 

Apa 

Temf 

Amo 

Pack 

Exc6 

Maseja 

Scumu 

Itipaca 

Itixco 

Itimasge 

Malahua 

Upax 

Kerxco 

From  the  Channel  of  Santa  Barbara  onward,  the  I^ands  are  not  so 
populous  nor  the  Indians  so  industrious,  but  they  are  equally  affable 
and  tractable.  The  Spaniards  pursued  their  Voyage  without  opposi- 
tion up  to  the  Sierra  of  Santa  Lucfa,  which  they  contrived  to  cross 
with  much  hardship.  At  the  foot  of  said  Sierra  on  the  North  side  is 
to  be  found  the  port  of  Monterrey,  according  to  ancient  reports,  be- 
tween the  Point  of  Pines  and  that  of  Ano  nuevo  [New- Year].  The 
Spaniards  caught  sight  of  said  Points  on  the  first  of  October  of  the 
year  '69  ;  and  believing  they  had  arrived  at  the  end  of  their  Voyage, 
the  Commandant  sent  the  Scouts  forward  to  reconnoiter  the  [Point] 
of  Pines  ;  in  whose  near  vicinity  lies  said  Port,  in  36  degrees,  40  min- 


Their  ^ 

ralne  ia 

(Spanish) 

(EmriUh) 

lya  Cabeza 

Head 

El  Pecho 

Breast 

Iva  Mano 

Hand 

ElCodo 

Elbow 

El  Sobaco 

Armpit 

El  Muslo 

Thigh 

I^a  RodUla 

Knee 

Ira  Piema 

I^g 

.  ElPi^ 

Foot 

Irancha,  6  canoa 

Canoe 

Rancheria 

Village 

Capitan  6  Principal 

Captain 

No 

No 

trds  of  Number 

Uno 

One 

Dos 

Two 

Tres 

Three 

Quatro 

Four 

Cinco 

Five 

Seis 

Six 

Siete 

Seven 

Ocho 

Eight 

Nueve 

Nine 

Diez 

Ten 

♦2  LAND    OF   SUNSHtNE. 

utea.  North  lat.  But  the  scant  tokens,  and  equivocal  ones,  which  are 
g-iven  of  it  by  the  Pilot  Cabrera  Bueno — ^the  only  clue  [Norie]  of  this 
Voyage — ^and  the  character  of  this  Port,  which  rather  merits  the 
name  of  Bay,  being  spacious  (in  a  likeness  to  that  of  Cadiz),  not  cor- 
responding with  the  ideas  which  it  is  natural  to  form  in  reading  the 
DerroUros  [lK)g]  of  the  aforementioned  Catxrera  Bueno,  nor  with  the 
latitude  of  37  degrees  in  which  he  located  it — the  Scouts  were  per- 
suaded that  the  Port  must  l)e  farther  to  the  North.  And  they  re- 
turned to  the  Camp  which  our  [people]  occupied  with  the  report  that 
what  they  sought  was  not  to  be  seen  in  those  parts. 

The  Sick  at  that  time  counted  seventeen  Men  crippled  with  Scurvy. 
The  season  was  advanced,  the  labors  of  guarding  and  night-herding 
the  Caballada,  loading  the  Packtrain,  Sentry  duty  in  the  Camp,  and 
above  all  the  reconnoissances  and  explorations  of  the  regions,  de- 
manded— since  they  were  naturally  heavy — a  greater  number  of  Folk 
than  there  were  in  a  state  to  perform  these  services.  So  that  the 
Commandant  found  himself  doubtful  as  to  the  procedure  it  would  be 
most  fit  to  adopt;  whether  to  wait  in  the  spot  for  some  Bark  to  appear 
or  to  pursue  the  march  in  quest  of  the  Port  of  Monterrey.  In  this  he 
considered  the  difficulties  which  have  been  mentioned,  and  not  daring 
to  make  the  resolve  himself  he  called  his  Officers  in  Council.  They 
were  unanimous  with  him  in  feeling  that  the  march  should  be  pur- 
sued. For  if  they  did  not  arrive  at  the  Port  and  Halting-place  of 
the  Barks,  to  receive  the  Victuals,  utensils  and  necessary  munitions 
for  the  Establishment  which  was  to  be  made  in  Monterrey,  the  succor 
which  they  so  much  needed  could  not  be  promised,  nor  would  it  be 
possible  to  form  the  Establishment  which  had  been  ordered.  And, 
last,  that  it  was  better  to  pass  on  in  quest  of  the  Port,  which  could 
not  be  far,  according  to  all  the  evidence,  than  to  adopt  at  once  a  pro- 
cedure which  it  would  always  be  in  time  to  choose  in  ease  the  Sick 
should  become  worse  or  the  number  of  them  be  augmented. 

It  was  resolved,  then,  to  prosecute  the  Voyage,  on  this  occasion 
turning  their  backs  on  the  Port  which  was  being  searched  for.  The 
Sick  suffered  much  on  this  march.  Some  i^^ere  seen  to  be  in  the  last 
extremity.  This  notably  retarded  the  march,  as  it  was  necessary  to 
take  a  rest  at  each  stage  of  the  journey.  At  this  time  (at  the  end  of 
October),  the  Rains  \Aguas\  began  ;  and  with  them  entered  an  Epi- 
demic of  diarrhoea  which  spread  to  all  without  exception;  and  it 
came  to  be  feared  that  this  Sickness,  which  prostrated  their  powers 
and  left  the  Persons  spiritless,  would  finish  with  the  Expedition  al- 
together. But  it  turned  out  quite  to  the  contrary ;  for  as  mamy  as 
were  afflicted  and  suffering  with  the  Scurvy,  crippled,  swollen  in  all 
their  members  and  loaded  with  pains,  began  from  that  time  forth  to 
experience  alleviation  of  their  ills.  Lrittle  by  little  the  swellings 
went  down,  the  pains  ceased,  they  recovered  the  use  of  their  mem- 
bers, and  at  last  their  perfect  health,  without  any  medicament. 

The  last  day  of  October  the  Expedition  by  Lrand  came  in  sight  of 
the  Punta  de  L/OS  Reyes  [Point  Reyes]  and  the  Farallones  [islands] 
of  the  Port  of  San  Francisco,  whose  landmarks,  compared  with 
those  related  by  the  Log  of  the  Pilot  Cabrera  Bueno,  were  found 
exact.  Thereupon  it  became  of  evident  knowledge  that  the  Port  of 
Monterrey  had  been  left  behind ;  there  being  few  who  stuck  to  the 
contrary  opinion.  Nevertheless  the  Commandant  resolved  to  send  to 
reconnoiter  the  I^and  as  far  as  Point  de  los  Reyes.  The  Scouts  who 
were  Commissioned  for  this  purpose  found  themselves  obstructed  by 
immense  Estuaries  which  run  extraordinarily  far  back  into  the  Land, 
and  were  obliged  to  make  great  detours  to  cut  off  their  heads  [des- 
cabezar;  i.e.,  get  around  the  heads  of  the  estuaries].  They  em- 
ployed three  days  in  this  reconnoissance,  and  returned  saying  that 
according  to  the  signs  the  Indians  had  given  them  they  could  not 


EARLY    CALIFORNIA    HISTORY.  43 

doabt  that  the  Port  [Monterey]  must  be  very  near,  and  that  surely 
some  one  of  the  Packets  had  arrived  at  its  destination,  and  they  be- 
lieved it  to  be  the  *'  San  Joseph."  L/ittle  account  was  made  of  this 
information  acquired  by  the  equivocal  medium  of  signs  with  hands 
and  head,  which  in  the  like  occasions  usurp  the  office  of  the  tongue. 
Nevertheless,  not  to  retire  with  this  doubt,  it  was  resolved  to  pass  on 
forward  far  enough  to  ascertain  the  fact.  Having  arrived  at  the  end 
[retnaie]  of  the  first  Estuary,  and  reconnoitered  the  I^and  that  would 
have  to  be  followed  to  arrive  at  the  Point  de  los  Reyes,  interrupted 
with  new  Bstuaries,  scant  of  Pasturag-e  and  Firewood  ;  and  havinf^ 
recognized,  besides  this,  the  uncertainty  of  the  news  and  the  mis- 
apprehension the  Scouts  had  labored  under,  the  Commandant,  with 
the  advice  {parecer'\  of  his  Officers,  resolved  upon  a  retreat  to  the 
Point  of  Pines,  in  hopes  of  finding  the  Port  of  Monterrey  and  en- 
countering in  it  the  Packet  **San  Joseph  *'  or  the  **  San  Antonio," 
whose  succor  already  was  necessary ;  since  of  the  Provisions  which 
had  been  taken  in  San  Diego  no  more  remained  than  some  few  sacks 
of  Flour,  of  which  a  short  ration  was  issued  to  each  individual  daily. 
With  the  Powder  and  the  I^ead  the  lack  of  the  other  things  was  some- 
what supplied,  for  the  chase  was  abundant — above  all,  that  of  Geese 
and  Ducks,  which  in  Time  of  Winter  abound  extraordinarily  in  that 
I^and. 

On  the  eleventh  day  of  November  was  put  into  execution  the  re- 
treat in  search  of  Monterrey.  The  Spaniards  reached  said  Port  and 
[the]  Point  of  Pines  on  the  28th  of  November.  They  maintained 
themselves  in  this  place  until  the  tenth  day  of  December,  without 
any  vessel  having  appeared  in  this  time.  For  which  reason — and 
noting  also  a  lack  of  Victuals,  and  that  the  Sierra  of  Santa  Luc£a 
was  covering^  itself  with  snow — the  Commandant  Don  Gaspar  de 
Portold  saw  himself  obliged  to  decide  to  continue  the  retreat  unto 
San  Dieg^o ;  leaving  it  until  a  better  occasion  to  return  to  the  Enter- 
prise. 

On  this  retreat  the  Spaniards  experienced  some  hardships  and 
necessities,  because  they  entirely  lacked  Provisions,  and  because  the 
long"  marches — which  necessity  obliged  them  to  make,  to  reach  San 
Diegfo — gave  no  time  for  seeking-  sustenance  by  the  chase,  nor  did 
this  [i.  e.,  game]  abound  equally  everywhere.  At  this  juncture  they 
killed  twelve  Mules  of  the  Packtrain,  on  whose  meat  the  FoPjc  nour- 
ished themselves  unto  San  Diego ;  at  which  new  Establishment  they 
arrived,  all  in  health,  on  the  24th  of  January  of  1770. 

They  found  in  good  condition  their  humble  Buildings,  surrounded 
with  a  palisade  of  trunks  of  Trees,  capable  of  a  good  defense  in  case 
of  necessity.  Many  of  the  Soldiers  and  Mariners  who  stayed  behind 
Sick  the  preceding  year  were  recovered  from  the  fatal  Epidemic  of 
Scurvy ;  altho'  the  greater  number  of  them  (and  these  were  they 
who  had  first  contracted  the  contagion  on  the  Sea)  had  died  irre- 
mediably. 

The  Reverend  Missionary  Padres  were  convalescing  from  the  com- 
mon Sickness,  as  were  also  the  Surgeon  Don  Pedro  Prat,  and  Don 
Vicente  Vila ;  for  the  contagion  did  not  exempt  [perdon6\  any  person 
of  those  who  were  comprised  in  this  Expedition.  \ 

There  were  in  San  Diego  Provisions  of  Maize,  Flour  and  Seeds 
sufficient  for  the  maintenance  of  those  who  composed  the  Garrison 
for  some  months ;  but  with  the  coming  of  sixty  Guests,  it  could  not 
be  counted  upon  to  last  much  time,  and  it  was  to  be  feared  that  if  the 
Barks  should  delay  in  bringing  the  Succor  upon  which  they  counted, 
those  Spaniards  might  see  themselves  obliged  by  hunger  to  abandon 
entirely  a  Conquest  which,  altho'  very  fortunate,  had  cost  so  many 
drudgeries  [sudoreSy  lit.  ''sweats"]  and  so  many  lives.  But  not  to 
expose  themselves  to  such  discredit,  the  Commandant  disposed  that 


44  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

the  Captain  of  the  Garrison  of  the  Califomias,  with  40  Men,  should 
prosecute  a  March  unto  that  Peninsula,  with  the  end  to  g'ather  up  in 
its  Missions  the  Victuals  that  he  could,  and  to  bring  on  foot  the 
Cattle  which — as  was  said  at  the  beginning* — ^had  remained  in  Veli- 
catd,  and  whose  leanness  had  not  permitted  them  to  continue  the 
march.  [This  was  a]  shrewd  provision,  in  that  it  looked  to  the  actual 
conservation  of  what  had  been  acquired,  diminishing  the  increased 
number  of  consumers  of  the  Victuals  which  were  on  hand,  and  to  the 
means  of  enabling  them  to  subsist  thereafter,  even  tho'  there  should 
be  failure  of  the  Succor  by  Sea,  so  important  to  carry  into  due  effect 
the  desired  Enterprise  of  Monterrey. 

This  Detachment  set  forth,  with  the  aforesaid  object,  on  the  10th 
of  February  of  1770.  And  by  this  means  an  account  was  newly 
given,  to  the  Most  Excellent  Senor  Viceroy  and  the  Most  Illustrious 
Senor  Visitador  General,  of  the  state  of  affairs,  of  what  had  hap- 
pened, been  seen  and  discovered  up  to  then  by  those  Spaniards  in 
their  long  Voyage  in  Northern  California.  In  which  those  who 
remained  awaiting  the  Orders  of  said  Superiors  were  little  delayed 
in  receiving  the  consolation  which  was  demanded  by  the  sad  condi- 
tion to  which  they  saw  themselves  reduced. 

On  the  23rd  day  of  March,  the  Packet  of  His  Majesty,  the  "  San 
Antonio,''  under  command  of  its  Captain  and  Pilot  Don  Juan  Peres, 
arrived  and  cast  anchor  in  the  Port  of  San  Diego.  It  had  set  Sail 
from  San  Bias  on  the  20th  of  December  of  the  preceding  year  of 
1769.  It  experienced  on  its  Voyage  rude  storms  and  contrary  winds, 
which  drove  it  to  400  leagues  from  the  Coast ;  and  having  found 
itself  compelled  to  return  in  search  of  this  [coast]  to  take  on  water, 
it  made  Land  at  35  degrees  of  [north]  latitude.  From  there,  turning 
its  Prow  to  the  South  and  its  left  side  to  the  Coast,  in  search  of  some 
Anchorage,  it  arrived  at  the  Point  Concepcion,  in  34  degrees  and  a 
half  of  North  Lratxtude.  [This  is]  the  most  Westerly  Land  of  the 
Channel  of  Santa  Barbara ;  and  in  its  shelter  they  managed  to  take 
on  water,  close  to  a  Settlement  of  Gentiles,  who  gave  them  indi- 
vidual account  [razon]  of  the  Expedition  by  Land ;  declaring  by 
signs  [which  were]  nowise  equivocal  how  the  Strangers  had  passed 
going  toward  the  North,  and  had  passed  returning,  short  of  food, 
striking  toward  the  South,  mounted  on  their  Horses.  The  which 
they  expressed  by  putting  themselves  in  like  posture  upon  the  barrels 
which  the  Mariners  put  ashore,  and  making  other  demonstrations 
proper  to  a  Man  on  Horseback.  They  mentioned,  likewise,  the 
names  of  various  Soldiers  ;  which,  being  recognized  by  some  of  the 
Mariners,  made  it  evident  that  these  words  were  not  sounded  casually. 

Perez,  being  convinced  that  the  Expedition  by  Land  had  retreated 
— in  the  which  he  admitted  no  doubt,  because  he  was  not  ignorant 
that  the  Victuals  could  not  have  lasted  them  until  then — determined 
to  arrive  at  San  Diego,  to  supply  them  with  what  they  should  need, 
for  the  purpose  of  facilitating  his  Voyage  returning  to  Monterrey, 
his  destination. 

This  was  the  measure  which  it  was  Appropriate  to  take,  and  in  fact 
the  Commandant  Don  Gaspdr  de  Portold  took  it,  notwithstanding  he 
found  hii^self  with  few  Troops  to  undertake  a  second  time  a  march 
so  protracted.  But  the  knowledge  which  he  [now]  had  of  the  good 
disposition  of  the  Natives  of  those  Lands,  and  the  Hospitality  which 
so  exactly  and  in  all  parts  they  had  observed  toward  the  Spaniards 
on  their  first  entry,  quitted  this  time  all  suspicion  and  lack  of  confi- 
dence. The  march  was  resolved  upon ;  and,  taking  the  necessary 
Provisions,  was  put  into  effect  on  the  l7th  of  April  of  the  current 
year,  with  only  twenty  Men,  between  Garrison  Soldiers  and  Catalonia 
Volunteers,  with  their  Oflicer  Don  Pedro  Fages. 

The  Engineer  Don  Miguel  Costanso,  conformably  to  the  Orders 


EARLY    CALIFORNIA    HISTORY.  ^ 

with  which  he  found  himaelf,  embarked  in  the  Packet  "  San  An- 
tonio," on  board  of  which  also  was  transferred  the  Most  Reverend 
Padre  President,  Fray  Junfpero  Serra ;  and  this  Vessel  put  to  Sea  on 
the  16th  of  April  of  the  same  year. 

All  reached  Monterrey;  those  by  Lrand»  on  the  23rd  of  May  ;  and 
on  the  31st  of  the  said  [month]  the  *'  San  Antonio  *'  cast  its  anchor 
in  the  same  Port  and  anchorage  in  which,  168  years  before,  was 
Anchored  [5urtd\  the  Squadron  of  the  Greneral  Vizcayno,  sent  by  the 
Count  of  Monterrey  to  the  Discovery  of  these  Coasts,  by  Order  of 
our  Lord  Don  Felipe  Third.  This  Port  is  found,  as  has  been  said,  in 
36  degrees  and  40  minutes  North  latitude,  at  the  declivity  [caydd]  of 
the  Sierra  of  Santa  I^ucfa,  on  the  North  side  of  it.  Its  principal 
shelter  is  the  Point  of  Pines,  which  trends  (not  from  Northeast  to 
Southwest,  as  the  Pilot  Cabrera  Bueno  locates  it,  but)  from  North- 
west to  Southeast ;  and  to  the  Northeast  shore  of  it  is  found  the 
Anchorage,  in  which  whatsoever  Vessel  can  anchor  in  four,  six  [or] 
eight  fathoms,  the  bottom  being  of  fine  Sand  and  good  holding,  ac- 
cording as  it  is  more  or  less  immediate  to  I^and. 

The  Point  of  Pines,  which  defends  the  Anchorage  from  the  North- 
west, is  all  girt  with  rocks  and  stone  bluffs  [canHles]^  but  behind  the 
rocks  enters  a  handsome  Beach  bordered  with  Sandbanks  [Meganos, 
misprint  for  M^danos\  on  its  E^asterly  bend,  turning  soon  to  the 
Northeast  and  North,  up  to  a  very  great  Estuary  with  different  arms, 
distant  from  the  beginning  of  the  said  Beach  more  than  three  leagues. 
Thence  the  Coast  follows  turning  to  the  Northwest  and  West — of 
£#arth  rather  thick  \gruesa\ ,  clothed  with  Groves,  stony  in  [some] 
parts  as  far  as  Point  Ano  Nuevo  [New  Year] ,  which  dies  in  the  Sea 
at  37  degrees  and  three  minutes  of  [north]  Latitude.  So  that  the 
Anchorage  remains  surrounded  by  Land  on  all  sides  except  the 
Northwest,  where  alone  it  lacks  shelter. 

The  land  which  shuts  in  this  immense  Bay,  seen  from  the  Sea, 
forms  an  agreeable  perspective.  For,  looking  to  the  South,  can  be 
seen  the  Sierra  of  Santa  Lucfa;  which,  throwing  off  from  itself 
sundry  hills,  lower  [and  lower]  in  proportion  as  they  approach  the 
Beach,  their  summits  crowned  with  Pines  and  covered  with  Pastur- 
age, presenting  a  magnificent  amphitheater,  made  more  sightly 
by  the  different  CaiLadas  which  interrupt  the  land  and  cause  admira- 
ble variety  and  harmony  to  the  eyes.  This  Port  has  not  running 
water;  but  sufficient  [water]  is  found  in  a  ravine  or  low  place  to  the 
southeast  of  the  Landing,  which  is  where  the  Beach  begins.  In  this 
place  one  passes  dryshod  an  Bstuary,  which  fills  only  at  spring  tides, 
and  runs  inland  a  considerable  distance  toward  the  East.  This  low 
place  is  very  humid,  and  for  this  reason  much  grass  grows  in  it,  and 
it  always  keeps  green.  So  that,  digging  in  whatsoever  part,  and 
opening  wells,  one  will  find  fresh  water  \agua  dulce,  lit.  sweet  water] 
and  good,  almost  at  the  very  surface  [peto,  lit.  ''  skin*']  of  the  Earth. 
And  [the  water]  would  be  better  if  one  cared  to  practice  the  same 
diligence  a  little  further  inland,  in  some  little  Canada  of  the  many 
which  come  to  disembogue  there.  For  in  them  have  been  found  va- 
rious springs  of  excellent  water  tho'  scanty. 

On  the  Northeast  and  East  shore,  the  country  stretches  in  hand- 
some plains  which  terminate  at  the  Sierra.  [These  have]  various 
small  Lagoons,  though  most  of  them  are  of  brackish  water.  In  some 
of  them  much  salt  crystallizes  [se  quaja,  lit.  ''  curdles"].  The  land 
in  general  is  sandy,  but  there  are  many  low  places  of  excellent 
crumbly  soil.  And  to  the  South  of  the  Port,  at  a  distance  of  two  short 
leagues,  is  a  spacious  Ca&ada,  thro'  which  comes  down  the  River 
called  Carmelo,  where  are  some  places  of  Grass  or  coarse  straw 
[sacaiaUs  6  pajonales]  which  entirely  hide  a  Man  on  Horseback — 
proof  of  the   feracity   of  the    land.    Its   products   are   worthy  of 


46  .     LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

esteem ;  for  there  are  Walnuts,  Hazelnuts,  and  Cherries,  as  in 
Burope ;  Blackberries,  Roses,  good  Grass  on  every  side. 

In  the  Sierra  are  most  corpulent  [corpulentisimos]  Oaks  and  Irive- 
oaks,  which  produce  good  Acorns,  Pines  which  bear  Cones,  and 
Pinones  in  abundance;  Forests  of  Junipers,  of  Cypresses  and  other 
various  Trees  \Palos\, 

The  Natives  of  Monterrey  live  in  the  Sierra.  Those  nearest  the 
Beach  are  distant  from  it  about  a  league  and  a  half.  They  come 
down  at  times  and  go  forth  to  fish  on  little  Rafts  of  cat-tail  rushes 
[Balzitas  de  Ened].  But  the  fisheries  cannot  be  their  principal  main- 
tenance, and  they  recur  to  it  only  when  the  chase  profits  them  little. 
For  [game]  abounds  much  in  the  interior  of  the  Sierra.  Above  all, 
such  as  the  Antelope  and  Deer.  These  Serranos  [mountaineer  In- 
dians] are  docile  and  tractable  in  the  extreme.  They  never  used  to 
come  to  visit  the  Spaniards  without  bringing  them  a  good  treat  of 
game,  which  w2ls  generally  composed  of  two  or  three  Deer  or  Ante- 
lope, which  they  offered  without  exacting  nor  even  asking  anything 
[in  return].  Their  good  disposition  has  given  to  the  Reverend  Mis- 
sionary Padres  well  founded  hopes  to  make  Conquest  of  them, 
briefly,  for  the  Faith  of  Christ. 

On  these  Coasts,  Fish  abounds  no  less  than  in  the  Santa  Barbara 
Channel  and  Port  of  San  Diego.  The  Cub-Whales  and  Sea-Lrions 
[Lodos  Marinas]  are  beyond  number ;  and  with  time  the  fishery  for 
the  former  might  perhaps  be  facilitated  in  that  same  Bay. 

In  that  Lrand  was  erected,  conformably  to  the  mandate,  a  Presidio 
and  Mission  under  the  Advocacy  of  San  Carlos ;  all  cooperating  with 
equal  attention  and  solicitude — Troops,  Mariners,  and  their  respect- 
ive Officers — toward  the  humble  beginnings  of  so  important  an 
fystablishment.  Having  concluded  the  Provisional  work  on  it,  which 
was  put  in  the  order  most  necessary  for  the  Reverend  Missionary 
Fathers  and  the  Troops  of  the  Presidio ;  and  having  projected  the 
remaining  [work]  which  ought  to  be  done  afterwanl,  the  cargo  of 
the  Packet  was  warehoused.  The  resolution  was  taken  by  the  Com- 
mandant Don  Gaspdr  de  Portold  to  embark  on  it  [the  packet] ,  with 
the  Engineer  Don  Miguel  Costanso,  leaving  the  command  to  the 
Ifieutenant  of  Infantry,  Don  Pedro  Fages,  as  he  was  advised  in  his 
Instructions.  And  to  aid  the  Troops  in  their  labors,  nine  Mariners 
remained  in  Monterrey  as  a  reinforcement. 

The  "  San  Antonio"  put  forth  from  that  Port  the  ninth  of  July  of 
this  year,  and  arrived  happily  at  the  [Port]  of  San  Bias  the  first  of 
August.  And  when  there  arrived  afterward  at  the  same  [port]  the 
other  Packet  the  "  San  Carlos" — which  returned  from  San  Diego— 
both  were  made  ready  to  undertake  a  new  Vo3rage  in  the  coming 
month  of  November  to  convey  separately,  by  the  interior  Gulf  of 
California,  and  by  the  Sea  of  the  South,  thirty  Apostolic  Mission- 
aries with  abundant  stores  of  provisions,  clothing,  utensils  and 
[sacred]  Vestments,  for  the  purpose  of  sustaining  the  new  Presidios 
of  San  Diego  and  Monterrey,  with  their  respective  Missions,  and  to 
erect  others  in  the  fertile  Countries  which  the  S^xpedition  by  Land 
traversed  from  Velicata  as  far  as  the  Port  of  San  Francisco,  situate 
in  37  degrees,  45  minutes,  of  [north]  lyatitude. 

Thus  the  desired  £^tablishments  of  San  Diego  and  Monterrey  have 
had  their  felicitous  beginnings.  And  so  [felicitously],  we  ought  to 
promise  ourselves,  shall  come  true  of  the  new  Missions  which  are 
going  to  be  foundeid  and  to  grow  under  the  protection  and  auspices  of 
the  Most  Excellent  Sr.  Marquis  de  Croix,  Viceroy,  Governor  and 
Captain-General  of  this  far-reaching  Empire,  whose  mild  [suav^] 
Rule  his  Subjects  applaud  and  the  Peoples  live  in  gratitude  for.  But 
this  Enterprise,  desired  for  so  many  years,  and  promoted  many  times 
with  grand  preparations  and  costs,  will  without  doubt  be  very  grate- 


EARLY    CALIFORNIA    HISTORY.  '♦^ 

fal  to  the  August  Monarch  who  wears  the  Crown  of  Spain  ;  whose 
magnanimous  Heart  and  religious  Piety  Heaven  rewards  with  raising 
up  in  his  glorious  Reign  Men  Illustrious  and  Great  in  all  estates, 
iScclesiastical,  Military  and  Political,  to  vie  equally  in  fulfilling  the 
high  charges  which  he  entrusts  to  their  eminent  capacity  and  talents 
— ^never  better  employed  than  in  procuring  the  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel  and  the  public  welfare  of  his  LfOyal  and  I^oving  Vassals. 
Mexico,  and  October  24,  of  1770. 

Don  Migubi,  Costanso. 


ABSTRACT  OF  REPORTS 

concerntng  the  Port  of  Monterrey,  the  Mission  and  Presidio  *kfhkh  ha<ve  been 
established  at  it,  <o)ith  the  denomination  of  San  Carlos,  and  the  oatcome  of 
the  t*wo  Expeditions  by  Sea  and  Land,  <which  for  this  end  'were  dispatched 
in  the  year  last  past,  of  1769* 

AFTER  THE  REPEATED  and  costly  Expeditions  which  were 
made  by  the  Crown  of  Spain,  in  the  two  centuries  preceding,  for  the 
reconnoissance  of  the  Occidental  Coast  of  Califomias  by  the  sea  of 
the  South,  and  for  the  occupation  of  the  important  Port  of  Mon- 
terrey, this  enterprise  has  now  been  successfully  carried  out  with  the 
two  expeditions,  by  sea  and  land,  which,  in  consequence  of  the  Royal 
Order  and  by  the  arrangements  of  this  Superior  Government  [i.  e., 
the  viceroy],  were  dispatched  from  Cape  San  L^ucas  and  the  Presidio 
of  Ivoreto  in  the  months  of  Jan.,  Feb.  and  March  of  the  year  last 
past. 

In  June  thereof,  both  Expeditions  united  in  the  Port  of  San 
Diego,  situate  in  32  degrees  and  a  half  of  [north]  latitude.  And  the 
resolution  havimg  been  taken  that  the  Packet  *'  San  Antonio"  should 
return  to  the  Port  of  San  Bias  to  reinforce  its  crew  and  bring  new 
provisions,  the  Flag  Packet,  named  the  ''San  Carlos,''  remained 
anchored  in  that  same  Port  of  San  Diego,  for  want  of  Mariners,  who 
had  died  of  scurvy.  Ajid  having  established  there  the  Mission  and 
an  Escort,  the  expedition  by  land  pursued  its  voyage  to  the  interior 
of  the  country  as  far  as  37  degrees  and  45  minutes  [north]  latitude, 
in  search  of  Monterrey.  But  not  having  found  it  by  the  tokens  of 
the  ancient  voyages  and  logs,  and  fearing  scarcity  of  Victuals,  it  re- 
turned to  San  Diego ;  where,  with  the  fortunate  arrival  of  the  Packet 
'*  San  Antonio  "  in  March  of  this  year,  the  Commandants  by  land 
and  sea  took  the  opportune  resolution  to  return  to  the  enterprise,  con- 
formably with  the  instructions  which  they  carried  to  accomplish  it. 

In  fact  both  Expeditions  set  forth  from  San  Diego  on  the  16th  and 
17th  days  of  April  of  the  present  [year] ;  and  in  this  second  voyage, 
the  [expedition]  by  land  had  the  felicity  to  find  the  Port  of  Monter- 
rey, and  to  arrive  at  it  the  16th  of  May  ;  and  that  by  sea  likewise  ar- 
rived at  the  same  place,  without  accident  nor  more  loss  than  that  of 
a  sick  Calker,  the  3l8t  of  the  same  month. 

That  Port  having  been  thus  occupied  by  sea  and  land,  with  the 
particular  complacency  of  the  innumerable  Gentile  Indians  who 
people  all  the  Country  explored  and  reconnoitered  in  the  two  voyages. 
Possession  was  solemnized  the  third  day  of  June,  with  an  authentic 
Instrument  which  the  Commandant  in  Chief,  Don  Gaspdr  de  Portoli, 
committed  to  writing  and  the  remaining  Officers  of  both  Expeditions 
certified ;  all  giving  their  assurance  that  that  was  the  very  Port  of 
Monterrey,  with  the  identical  landmarks  [seHales]  which  were  de- 
scribed in  the  ancient  Narrative  [Relaciones]  of  General  Don  Sebas- 
tian Viscayno,  and  in  the  log  of  Don  Joseph  Cabrera  Bueno,  first 
Pilot  of  the  Ships  of  the  Philippines. 

On  the  14th  day  of  the  above  mentioned  month  of  June  last,  the 
said  Commandant  Don  Gaspir  de  Portold  dispatched  a  Mail  by  land 


48  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

to  the  Preaidio  of  Lforeto,  with  the  praiseworthy  news  of  the  occupa- 
tion of  Monterrey,  and  of  the  having-  established  in  it  the  Mission 
and  Presidio  of  San  Carlos.  But  on  account  of  the  great  distance, 
this  Superior  Gov't  has  not  jet  received  those  L<etters ;  and  on  the 
10th  of  the  present  month  there  arrived  at  this  Capital  the  [letters] 
which  were  directed  by  the  same  Portold,  the  Engineer  Don  Miguel 
Costans6,  and  the  Captain  Don  Juan  Perez,  Commandant  of  the 
aforesaid  Packet  "  San  Antonio,"  alias  "  Principe,*'  which  put  forth 
the  9th  of  July  from  Monterrey.  And  notwithstanding  eight  days 
of  calms,  it  made  its  long  voyage  with  such  felicitous  celerity  that 
on  the  first  of  this  month  it  cast  anchor  in  San  Bias. 

There  were  left  abundant  utensils  and  provisions  in  the  new  Pre- 
sidio and  Mission  of  San  Carlos  of  Monterrey,  and  stores  for  one 
year,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  another  Doctrina  at  a  propor- 
tionate distance,  with  the  advocacy  of  San  Buenaventura.  .Ajid  the 
Ivieutenant  of  Catalonian  Volunteers,  Don  Pedro  Fages,  having  also 
remained  there  as  Military  Commandant,  with  more  than  thirty  men, 
it  is  to  be  judged  that  by  this  date  there  will  already  have  united 
with  him  the  Captain  of  the  Presidio  of  I/oreto,  Don  Fernando 
de  Rivera,  with  other  nineteen  Soldiers  and  the  Vaqueros  and 
Muleteers  who  were  conducting  200  homed  cattle  [lueses  Bacunas]^ 
and  a  portion  of  Victuals  from  the  new  Mission  of  San  Fernando  de 
Villacati,  situate  beyond  the  Frontier  of  the  California  anciently  re- 
claimed; since  he  set  forth  from  that  place  the  14th  of  April  last, 
with  destination  to  the  aforesaid  Ports  of  San  Diego  and  Monterrey. 

Notwithstanding  that  at  the  latter  [port]  the  Warehouses  already 
constructed  at  the  new  Presidio  and  Mission  were  left  provided  with 
abundance,  at  the  departure  of  the  Packet  **  San  Antonio;"  and  that 
in  that  [port]  of  San  Diego  lie  anchored  the  two  other  Packets  of 
His  Majesty,  the  ''  San  Carlos"  and  the  '*  San  Joseph,"  this  Superior 
Gov't  disposes  that  in  the  latter  part  of  October  next  the  "  San  An- 
tonio" return  to  undertake  a  third  voyage  from  the  Port  of  San 
Bias,  and  that  it  conduct  new  provisions  and  thirty  Religious  of  St. 
Ferdinand  [Femandinos]  of  the  last  Mission  which  came  from 
Spain;  in  order  that  in  that  extensive  and  fertile  Country  reconnoitered 
by  the  Expedition  by  land,  from  the  ancient  Frontier  of  California 
as  far  as  the  Port  of  San  Francisco  (little  distant,  and  more  to  the 
North  from  that  of  Monterrey),  new  Missions  be  erected,  and  that 
happy  opportunity  be  taken  advantage  of  which  is  offered  by  the 
gentleness  and  good  disposition  of  the  innumerable  Gentile  Indians 
who  inhabit  the  Northern  California. 

In  proof  of  this  fortunate  disposition  in  which  are  found  those 
numerous  and  most  docile  Gentiles,  the  Commandant  Don  Gaspdr 
de  Portold  declares — and  the  rest  of  the  Officers  and  the  Missionary 
Fathers  agree  to  the  same  thing — that  our  Spaniards  remain  in  Mon- 
terrey as  safe  as  if  they  were  in  the  midst  of  this  Capital ;  altho'  the 
new  Presidio  has  been  left  sufficiently  fitted  out  with  Artillery, 
Troops  and  abundant  munitions  of  war.  And  the  Reverend  Father 
President  of  the  Missions  [Serra],  destined  for  that  [Mission]  of 
Monterrey,  relates  very  minutely  and  with  especial  joy,  the  affability 
of  the  Indians,  and  the  promise  which  they  had  already  made  him  to 
deliver  their  children  to  be  instructed  in  the  Mysteries  of  our  Holy 
and  Catholic  Religion.  That  exemplary  and  zealous  Minister  of  it 
adds  the  circumstantial  report  of  the  Solemn  Masses  which  had  been 
celebrated,  from  the  [time  of  the]  arrival  of  both  Expeditions  until 
the  departure  of  the  Packet  **  San  Antonio ;"  and  of  the  Solemn 
Procession  of  the  Most  Holy  Sacrament  which  was  made  on  the  day 
of  Corpus  [Christi],  the  14th  of  June;  with  other  particularities 
which  accredit  the  especial  providence  with  which  God  hath  deigned 
to  favor  the  successful  issue  of  these  Expeditions — ^in  reward,  with- 


ACCURATE    CALIFORNIA    STATISTICS.  *9 

oatdonbt,  of  the  ardent  Zeal  of  Our  Ang^st  Soverei{ina>  whose  incom- 
parable piet7  recog'nUea  as  the  first  obligation  of  his  Royal  Crown 
m  these  vast  Dominions  the  extension  of  the  Faitfa  of  Jeaus  Christ, 
and  the  wellfare  of  the  wretched  Gentiles  who  groan  without  knowl- 
edge of  it  and  in  the  trrannons  bondage  of  the  common  enemy. 

In  order  not  to  hold  back  this  most  important  report,  the  present 
Narrative  of  it  has  been  formed  in  brief  compend,  without  awaiting 
the  first  letters  despatched  by  land  from  Monterrey.  In  the  mean- 
time, with  them,  the  diaries  of  the  voyages  by  sea  and  land,  and  the 
rest  of  the  Documents,  in  due  time  can  be  given  a  complete  work 
concerning  the  both  expeditions. 

Uexico,  16th  of  August,  of  1770. 
With  pbrmissiqh  and  by  ordbb  of  the  Most  Excbllent  SeRok 

ViCKHOY. 

At  the  Imprint  of  the  Superior  Government. 


Accurate  California  Statistics, 

AGRICULTURAL  PRODUCTS,  lOOO. 


AC..AO.. 

smrxBHTl. 

cail'db 

FDUND 

.BDS.,  BTC 

V&LDB. 

Oiuagt*  and  Lemoaa 

DscldnoDs  Frnlt,  fnsb 

£5,540 
not  Biveo 

1S,«00 
'SS8 

■m 

Lbs.. 

Lb*. 

ii.ibolooa ; 

118.000,000 
9.HS,0M 

Alnoni' - 

3,sn 

•'iS.-.r — : 

tsr.   I 

Lbs..    1              1 

iSt:t      1 

Lbs..                   1 

bd^:        I 

Bub.,                   I 
Tons,                1 

Lbs..    li.e60,T3S 
Lbs..     S,W,9X 

DotriTcd 

S,T11 

wxw 

■■■■iM- 

7,000 
not  Biren 
not  Biveu 

i,Si,a5 

i076 

1393,185 

1.000,000 

115,000 
W,000 

Dairies : 

"-M 

v^'a^^'Z^tVt^ 

Lb.., 

IMM 

*  VLdtsffe;  shlpmeats  m 


pricolB,  apples,  fl^s,  p< 


ToTAI.,  tl38,301,U 
B,  plnms,  nectaiinos,  crapes. 


1,  wtalcb  exceed  tbe  oil  In  outtiat. 


souBTHiMG  Something  must  be  done — and  something  is  i:oing 

DOHB.  *o  be  done — for  the  Mission  Indians  of  Southern 
California.  A  little  meeting  of  ponderable  people 
in  June  decided  to  fonn  an  organization  which  will  have  a 
strength  and  "  pull  "  that  even  the  politicians  will  have  to 
respect.  Unfortunately,  most  of  the  active  workers  are  to 
be  away  from  home  during  the  summer  months ;  but  in 
the  early  fall  a  permanent  association  will  be  formed  to  do 
organized  and  unremitting  work  for  the  infamously  abused 
natives.  And  God  pity  the  vulgar  oppressor  then !  For 
his  name  shall  be  made  a  stench  in  the  nostrils  of  the  de- 
cent. He  shall  be  known  as  he  is — one  who  cared  more  to 
add  a  few  acres  to  his  lands  than  for  the  death  by  starva- 
tion of  hundreds  of  men,  women  and  children. 

The  whole  treatment  of  the  Mission  Indians  has  been  a 
disgrace  to  us — as  has  been  said  before  in  these  pages,  and 
before  that  by  better  people.  Perhaps  the  crowning  shame 
— certainly  that  which  now  most  undeniably  enlists  all 
Americans  who  still  have  manhood — is  the  imminent  evic- 
tion of  the  Indians  of  Warner's  Ranch,  in  San  Diego 
county.  Since  before  the  discovery  of  America,  these 
harmless  people  have  dwelt  on  those  lands — a  little  oasis 
on  the  verge  of  the  hopeless  desert  But  now  they 
must  go.  Where  ?  To  the  desert.  There  is  no  room  for 
them.  They  owned  California  once.  Over  them  then 
came  the  Franciscan  Missions,  to  their  betterment. 
Wicked  Spain  protected  them  in  their  rights.  Then  came 
the  secularization  of  the  Missions,  70  years  ago — a  high- 
way robbery  by  Mexico,  as  every  student  knows,  and  the 
eminent  lawyer,  John  T.  Doyle,  proved  in  our  own  courts 
by  recovering  from  our  government  nearly  a  million  dollars 
involved  in  the  same  confiscation.    Corrupt  satraps  par- 


IN    THE   UON*S   DEN.  51 

celed  out  these  stolen  lands  in  grants ;  and  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  United  States  has  recently  confirmed  one  of 
those  grrants  to  a  rich  man  who  does  not  need  it,  thereby 
leaving  300  Indians  to  starve.  Which  shows  not  so  much 
the  difference  between  law  and  justice,  as  it  does  the  igno- 
rance of  our  great  tribunal. 

The  one  present  hope  for  the  lives  of  these  300  First 
Americans  is  in  the  manhood  of  the  successful  litigant. 
The  Lion  has  known  J.  Downey  Harvey  for  some  sixteen 
years,  and  believes  him  manly.  He  is  *' business,"  but  he 
has  never  yet,  to  the  Lion's  knowledg^e,  acted  the  brute ; 
and  it  is  a  comfort  that  he,  rather  than  another,  is  the 
winner  in  this  suit.  He  may  be  relied  upon,  the  Lion  be- 
lieves, to  act  mercifully ;  to  wait  and  give  a  chance  for 
poor  men  to  contribute  to  buy  land  with  water  and  give  it 
to  the  Indians  who  were  living  at  **  Warner's  Ranch"  be- 
fore the  first  traceable  ancestor  of  the  grantee  was  born. 
At  any  rate,  there  is  a  concrete  movement  now  to  try  to 
care  for  and  help  these  bedevilled  people,  whose  only  crime 
is  that  they  were  here  first  and  that  they  have  lands  that 
stronger  people  hanker  for.  And  it  is  a  movement  that 
means  business.  In  social,  political  and  literary  circles  it 
is  strong  enough  to  count.  Meantime  the  first  concrete  aid 
comes  from  Mr.  J.  E.  Lowrey,  of  Sopris,  Colorado,  who 
sends  the  Lion  $5  to  be  applied  for  the  benefit  of  the  Mis- 
sion Indians.  All  such  contributions  will  be  gratefully  re- 
ceived, accounted  for  and  applied  net  to  helping  the  Indians. 

An  Eastern  Summer!  What  a  reminiscence  for  the     »ack  m 
Californian — and  we  nearly  all  have  had  it  to  re- 
member— what  an  experience   to   renew  for  them 
that  have  graduated  from  the  Foolish  Land  where's  it's  as 
much  as  one's  life  is  worth  to  meet  one's  own  weather  on 
the  street.     It  is  nearly  18  years  since  the  Lion  has  par- 
ticipated in  this  Gehenna  on  the  Installment  Plan — ^but  he 
had  not  forgotten  a  jot  of  it.     He  has  lived  in  the  tropics 
and  in  the  intermediate  'deserts,  and  they  have  been  warm 
enough  for  him ;  but  he  has  never  found  anything  so  bad 
as  summer  in  the  land  which  is  sardined  with   the  vast 
majority  of  the  people  who  confess  that  they  are  the  smart- 
est in  the  world.    The  morasses  of  Ecuador  or  the  Mexican 


OF  IT. 


52  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

Tierra  Caliente,  the  gfhastly  sands  of  our  Mojave  or  the 
Peruvian  Atacama — ^he  would  pick  any  one  of  these  as 
summer  resorts  sooner  than  any  city  of  Indiana,  Ohio, 
New  York.  And  in  all  these  places,  where  he  worked  hard, 
tramping  day  long  with  a  heavy  camera,  mining  for  antiq- 
uities and  so  on,  he  was  cooled  and  refreshed  by  remem- 
bering that  after  all  this  wasn't  a  New  York  or  Washing- 
ton summer. 

And  now,  popped  back  into  the  old  inferno,  he  finds  that 
the  possible  mirages  of  18  years — every  year  of  them 
thankful — have  not  magnified  the  fact.  If  anything,  it  is 
a  little  worse  than  he  remembered.  It  is  a  remarkable 
transition,  for  anyone  capable  of  observation  and  thought, 
to  make  the  transcontinental  trip  at  almost  any  season  ;  to 
the  average  Easterner — who  knows  California  only  as  a 
flowery  winter  refuge  from  his  snows — perhaps  the  trans- 
formation is  most  astonishing  in  summer.  Leaving  Los 
Angeles — where  he  never  has  slept  a  summer  night  under 
less  than  two  blankets  nor  ever  a  winter  night  without 
wide-open  windows ;  where  his  children  run  bare-headed 
all  the  year  and  he  works  in  the  sun  the  hottest  days — the 
Lion  came  over  the  Mojave  in  112^,  and  overran  the  shade- 
less  mesas  of  Southern  New  Mexico  afoot  every  daylight 
hour  for  days,  when  the  coolest  shade  back  in  the  village 
registered  117^.  It  violates  no  confidence  to  say  that  it 
was  warmish  work  ;  but  it  was  not  dangerous  nor  debilita- 

ing.  In  the  Arid  Lands — particularly  at  high  altitudes — 
such  heat  is  not  bad,  and  sunstrokes  are  unknown.  And 
his  little  girl  legged  it  at  his  side,  and  danced  in  the  blaz- 
ing plaza  of  her  birthplace  in  the  ceremonial  dance  of  her 
old  Indian  neighbors — and  felt  the  fiery  glow  no  more  than 
a  salamander  may. 

Then  up  the  piny  acclivities  of  the  Glorieta  and  the 
Raton,  the  coccyx  of  the  Backbone  of  the  Continent,  where 
the  air  is  always  tonic ;  and  on  down  the  long  slope  to 
the  Stoke-pit  Country. 

It  is  only  in  the  Humid  Lands — what  washing  the  Al- 
mighty never  cared  enough  for  to  wring  out  or  hang  nearer 
heaven — that  heat  is  murderous.  In  that  wonderfully 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Kaw  it  began  to  be  like  Old  Times. 
The  shadiest  place  in  town  marked  101)^°  when  we 
lunched  at  Topeka,  and  the  sticky  air  would  have  mended 
crockery  with  very  little  condensation.     Kansas  City  was 


IN    THE    LION'S   DEN.  S3 

worse  ;  and  variable  Chicagro,  sittingf  by  ber  vast  polluted 
lake,  was  a  mere  musb.  Tbe  news  &om  tbe  front,  as  tbe 
train-boy  came  on  witb  fresb  papers,  was  cheering.  It  was 
like  war  days — old  war  days ;  for  in  our  three  years'  Span- 
isb-Filipino  war  there  has  not  been  a  battle  in  which  so 
many  people  were  killed  and  wounded  as  the  heat  put  out 
in  our  civilized  East  in  that  one  day  in  early  July — 57 
deaths  from  heat  and  141  prostrations  in  New  York  yester- 
day ;  206  deaths  from  heat  in  New  York  today.  Chicago 
claimed  only  five  deaths  from  heat,  with  a  mild  list  of 
prostrated  and  ''insane  from  heat;"  but  recorded  eleven 
people  killed  dead  by  one  clap  of  lightning  in  the  city.  And 
all  this  before  the  Glorious  Fourth,  and  before  the  Fiend 
has  fairly  warmed  up  to  his  work.  Chicago  is  probably 
the  coolest  great  city  in  the  East ;  but  on  the  Fourth  the 
Lion  sat  still  in  his  skin  at  the  table  in  a  three-side-open 
room,  in  an  unelbowed  house  within  rifle-carry  of  the  lake, 
and  gasped  and  ran  rivers  all  day  ;  and  at  6  p.m.  enjoyed  a 
violent  gale  and  thunderstorm  ;  and  at  4  A.M.,  still  leaking 
at  every  pore,  lay  down  stark  to  heavy  sleep.  And  on  the 
10th  of  July,  when  these  words  are  written,  in  the  coolest 
and  prettiest  spot  to  which  Chicago  millionaires  retreat,  it 
was  99  >^  in  the  shade — and  in  Chicago  102°  in  the  sky  and 
106°  on  the  street.  Only  a  dry  wind  from  the  Colorado 
plains  saved  the  city  from  the  mortality  of  a  goodly  battle. 
And  nearly  two  million  Americans,  who  think  no  small 
of  their  wits,  persist  in  that  Tophet — to  say  nothing  of  the 
more  millions  who  endure  worse.  Move  ?  How  can  they 
move  ?  Aren't  they  coral  "  insects,"  by  now,  unable  to 
build  except  upon  one  another's  backs  ?  The  rich  who  are 
not  too  busy  do  escape  their  torments  by  fleeing  to  the 
woods  and  waters  in  summer,  by  living  hermetically  sealed 
in  their  palatial  cans  of  poisoned  air  in  winter ;  but  the 
vast  majority  are  helpless  under  the  claws  of  the  urban 
monster  as  a  mouse  playing  with  a  cat.  She  may  let  them 
frisk  a  step  or  two — and  then  out  comes  the  velvet  paw. 
And  they  stay  where  men  drop  dead  on  the  streets  with 
sunstroke,  and  horses  wear  straw  hats  to  save  their  lives, 
and  the  very  heavens  reek  with  the  stench  of  lathered  man 
and  beast.  And  they  stay  on  when  the  contemptuous  skies 
jail  them  in  their  taxable  prisons,  and  shake  pneumonia  in 
their  faces  if  they  dare  emerge  from  a  second-hand  stew  or 
furnace-heated,  humanized  air.  They  stay  because  they 
have  lost  what  our  first  mother  learned  at  the  Tree — the 
knowledge  of  good  and  evil.  They  are  not  even  ashamed 
of  their  nakedness.  They  are  smitten  with  the  locomotor 
ataxia  of  cities.  One  in  ten  thousand  of  them  is  still  ver- 
tebrate,- and  can  walk — and  7£/i7/walk,   "just  as  soon  as  he 


54  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

can  arrang^e  his  business,"  unless  he  happens  to  die  of  his 
weather  first.  But  the  vast  majority  will  never  stir  till 
they  go  feet  first  to  a  better  climate — whichever  their  lives 
may  have  earned. 

To  one  born  and  bred  where  people  know  no  better,  but 
who  timely  escaped,  all  this  seems  curious.  The  Lion 
won't  be  sunstruck  in  the  Bast.  He  can  stand  more  weather 
than  most  people.  But  as  a  standing  rule  of  life  he  doesn't 
have  to,  and  doesn't  mean  to.  It  is  good  enough  for  him 
where  no  one  is  ever  sunstruck  or  frozen  to  death,  slain  with 
lightning  or  cyclones,  or  mad  dogs  or  poisonous  air.  And 
even  as  he  yearns  to  see  the  relatively  few  people  who  are 
worthy  to  enjoy  God's  country,  and  wish  to,  get  started 
thither,  he  is  thankful  that  California  will  never  get 
jammed  with  the  sort  of  people  who  are  contented  with 
the  Kast. 


HASSAYAMPERS  The  Immedicable  Tenderfoot  is  not  the  only  fly  in 
^'"^  OTHERS  *^^  Western  ointment.  His  most  gibbering  ab- 
surdities, his  fondest  credulities,  are  run  neck-and- 
neck — and  often  headed — by  the  Autochthonous  Provincial 
who  guesses  at  everything  and  always  guesses  big  enough. 
Heaven  has  made  a  sort  for  the  express  purpose,  appar- 
ently, of  knowing  less  about  a  country  the  longer  they  live 
in  it ;  and  some  of  these  folk  seem  to  have  lived  in  the 
West  long  enough  to  know  nothing  whatever.  There  are 
even  Western  newspapers,  whose  fund  of  progressive  ig- 
norance would  furnish  forth  a  dozen  Raymond  excursions. 
An  Arizona  paper,  for  instance,  gravely  announces  that 
Tucson  is  the  oldest  city  in  the  United  States,  having  been 
''  founded  in  1555,  some  half  a  century  earlier  than  Santa 
Fe  or  St.  Augustine  "  It  bases  this  joyous  bit  of  curb- 
stone history  on  jolly  George  Hilzinger's  absurd  Treasure 
Land  and  its  alleged : 

''Authentic  documents  discovered  among  the  records  of  the  old 
mission  of  San  Xavier,  dated  1552»  when  the  settlement  was  ordered 
to  be  established  ;  and  attached  to  which  is  an  account  of  the  found- 
ing^ of  Tucson,  written  in  the  fair  round  hand  of  Marcos  of  Niza." 

Western  Brethern,  is  it  not  about  time  to  leave  these 
Hassayampings  and  fakes  to  the  Vacant  Tourist  ?  It  is 
very  nice  sometimes  to  make  a  fool  of  him,  but  to  make 
fools  of  ourselves  is  not  compulsory.  There  are  Tender- 
feet  who  are  not  fools — ^and  they  laugh  at  you. 

Tucson  is  the  "oldest  city"  in — Tucson.  Be  content 
with  that.  St.  Augustine,  Pla.,  was  founded  in  1565; 
Chamita,  New  Mexico  (San  Gabriel  de  los  Espanoles),  in 
1598 ;  Santa  Fe  in  1605  ;  Tucson  in  1776.  There  are  scores 
of  settlements  in  the  Southwest  that  are  older  than  Tuc- 


tN    THE   LION'S   DEN.  55 

son.  There  are  several  even  in  tardy  California.  Tucson 
had  not  even  the  disunity  of  an  Indian  rancheria  when 
Santa  Fe  was  a  gfoodly  Spanish  town  a  century  old.  No 
order  to  found  it  in  1552  was  ever  given  by  anyone — nor  in 
1652  nor  in  1752.  It  is  first  heard  of  as  a  little  rancheria 
of  a  few  Indians  in  1763,  visited  by  a  priest  from  Bac. 
Fray  Marcos  of  Niza  never  wrote  an  account  of  the  found- 
ing of  Tucson,  in  a  **  fair  round  hand  "  or  any  other,  for 
the  excellent  reason  that  he  had  been  dead  more  than  two 
centuries  when  Tucson  was  founded.  The  date  of  his  de- 
mise was  March  25,  1558  He  never  so  much  as  saw  the 
site  upon  which  Tucson — and  so  many  silly  lies — were 
sometime  to  be  built.  Bvery  student  knows  this.  It  has 
been  proved  by  history.  Even  Bancroft  "had  fun  "  with 
these  Hassayamper  myths  {New  Mexico  and  Arizona^  f. 
304)  ;  and  Coues's  Garces  (p.  79)  reviews  the  case.  But 
all  this  howling  bosh  is  not  only  printed  in  an  Arizona 
paper  and  widely  copied — it  is  said  now  to  have  gone  into 
the  official  archives  of  the  Sons  of  the  American  Revolu- 
tion I 

And  a  New  Mexico  paper — whose  fingers  were  badly 
enough  burned  at  the  time  by  its  advocacy  of  the  disen- 
chanted Prof.  Libbey — again  soberly  attacks  the  En- 
chanted Mesa,  and  says  that  a  renegade  Indian  says  that 
his  people  have  no  legends.  The  Enchanted  Mesa  is  set- 
tled in  science.  The  legend  stood,  the  greenhorn  who  at- 
tacked it  was  exploded — and  of  the  fragments  that  were 
left  of  his  reputation  as  a  scientist  several  baskets  full  were 
gathered  up  in  nearly  every  important  publication  in 
America  and  a  great  many  abroad.  Every  scholar  knows 
the  facts,  now;  the  intelligent  ** old-timers"  of  New 
Mexico  know  them  ;  and  so  far  as  is  in  evidence  the  only 
dingers  to  the  wreck  are  this  one  ignorant  paper  and  the 
ex-Rev.  G.  Wharton  James. 

The  superb  John  Carter  Brown  Library  of  Ameri-     <>ooi>  i>a.ys 
cana,  of  which  George  Parker  Winship  of  this  staflf  ^^^studbnts 

is  librarian,  has  been  presented  by  its  trustees  to 
Brown  University,  Providence,  R.  I.,  with  an  endowment 
of  $650,000.  This  matchless  collection  of  books  printed  in 
or  concerning  North  or  South  America  before  1801,  is  not 
only  a  tremendous  accession  to  Brown  University ;  the 
transfer  will  result  in  making  it  more  accessible  to  stu- 
dents, as  it  will  now  be  housed  in  an  adequate  library 
building,  instead  of  a  private  residence.  It  is  a  pity  more 
rich  men  had  not  taken  thought  to  gather  important  books. 
Many  give  money  en  bloc  to  buy  books^  but  that  is  a  very 
different  story  from  the  intelligent  and  loving  care  of  col- 
lecting them  on  a  great  scale  and  a  definite  plan.     In  no 


56  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

other  line  has  there  been  so  much  need  as  in  Americana — 
and  certainly  none  more  interesting  to  Americans.  The 
exact  first-hand  study  of  the  early  history  of  this  New 
World  has  been  almost  closed  to  the  average  student  by  the 
enormous  rarity  and  cost  of  many  of  the  more  important 
sources.  We  should  fare  hardly  were  it  not  for  the  brains 
and  generosity  of  two  admirable  American  types — the  late 
John  Carter  Brown  (son  of  the  Nicholas  Brown  for  whom 
the  University  was  named)  and  Edward  E.  Ayer,  of 
Chicago,  whose  magnificent  private  library  of  ^  Americana, 
probably  matchless  in  the  world  as  to  American  Indians 
and  everything  relating  to  them,  is  accessible  through  the 
Newberry  Library,  and  who  is  still  expending  a  fortune 
every  year  in  scouring  the  earth  for  further  treasures. 
Such  citizens  deserve  well  of  their  country.  In  a  day  when 
we  are  swamped  and  foundered  with  the  flood  of  books  that 
are  good  for  nothing,  they  have  saved  for  us  from  the  wreck 
of  neglect,  and  made  accessible  to  us,  the  priceless  volumes 
upon  which  all  scientific  history  of  this  our  country  must 
be  builded. 

80MB  One  of  the  pathologic  symptoms  of  hysteria  is  a 

'^^"sraS^Ms      *^*^^  ^^^®  ^^  *^^  sense  of  proportion.     Ladies  in 

this  guise  are  not  expected  to  remember  history  or 
balance  or  self-control.  Neither  are  nations.  It  is  only 
when  they  recover  from  their  tantrums  that  they  can  per- 
ceive that  Waterloo  was  as  important  as  the  rattling  of  a 
window  that  set  them  oflf .  Certainly  if  there  be  any  medical 
term  which  can  define  the  frequent  **  spells"  of  two  great 
nations  now  in  war,  it  is  hysteria.  When  England  cele- 
brates with  wild  street  orgies  the  escape  of  her  250,000 
soldiers  from  a  tenth  of  their  number  of  farmers,  that  is 
hysterical.  When  the  United  States  does  a  war-dance  over 
naval  engagements  in  which  not  a  man  is  lost  by  the 
victors — that  rather  resembles  the  same  disease.  There 
are  no  adjectives,  or  emotions,  left  for  Wellingtons,  Napo- 
leons, Nelsons,  Washingtons,  Lees,  Farraguts,  Perrys  or 
Grants — they  have  all  been  shrieked  out  for  the  corporals. 
For  instance,  for  capturing  Aguinaldo  by  forged  letters, 
Funston  is  made  a  Brigadier-Greneral.  Meade  was  made  a 
Brigadier-General  for  winning  the  battle  of  Gettysburg, 
one  of  the  world's  great  battles,  a  field  on  which  more  men 
died  than  have  died  on  both  sides  in  our  three  years'  war 
with  Spain  and  the  Philippines,  with  its  hundreds  of 
"battles."  Funston  is  a  dashing  figure;  but  to  reward  a 
brave,  smart  scout  with  precisely  the  same  guerdon  as 
crowns  the  victor  of  a  decisive  battle  in  the  nation's  and 
the  world's  destiny,  is  so  disproportionate  as  to  discredit 


IN    THE   LfON'S   DEN.  57 

our  dignity,  to  say  nothing  of  subverting  all  the  sane 
standards,  without  which  no  military  service  can  be  kept 
effective. 


Just  what  the   Cubans — and  we — may  expect,  is     rbi3asing 

PBIJNB. 


frankly  and  confidently  set  forth  by  an  authorita-  '^^^ 


tive    administration  organ,   the  Chicago  Record" 
Herald: 

**  The  one  guarantee  that  the  Cabana  have  is  in  their  own  submis- 
sion to  whatever  is  demanded  of  them.  80  long  as  annexation  is  de- 
ferred they  may  play  at  independence,  but  they  should  understand 
that  they  are  industrially  as  well  as  politically  at  this  country's  mercy, 
and  that  in  any  event  the  intention  is  to  keep  their  industries  taxed. 
Whether  they  are  permitted  to  masquerade  outside,  or  are  taken  in 
after  the  qualified  fashion  of  the  hour,  our  sugar  and  tob€uuu>  inter- 
ests will  be  protected  against  them  and  will  run  thetn,** 

The  beauty  of  it  is  that  this  is  all  about  so.  This  is,  and 
from  the  first  has  been,  the  intention  of  the  moving  spirits 
in  the  little  game  of  Cuba  Libre  which  was  so  successfully 
worked  on  a  confiding  and  generous  public,  three  years  ago. 
And  our  solemn  pledge  to  give  Cuba  freedom  and  take  no 
advantage  to  ourselves  ?  Oh,  the  American  people  would 
not  have  gone  into  war  for  a  professed  steal ;  but  when  the 
war  is  over  they  are  too  good-natured  and  too  ''patriotic" 
to  object  when  the  politicians  break  the  nation's  vow  and 
traffic  in  our  shame. 


How  completely  the  bulk  of  the  so-called  "relig-ious  press*'      GOD 


AND 


has  ceased  to  be  religious  and  has  left  its  conscience  in  the  mammon 

"  business  office,"  is  shown  by  the  ghastly  fact  that  a  ma- 
jority of  these  sheets  are  now  lining  up  to  swallow  the  perjury  of 
breaking  our  faith  with  Cuba  and  the  civilized  world.  The  old  and 
strong-  Independent  is  an  honorable  exception.  80  is  the  Chicago 
Advance^  I  believe.  Yet  one  should  insert  a  qualifying  phrase, 
though  by  '*  religious  press"  we  generally  mean  the  Protestant 
weeklies.  For  it  is  a  sarcastic  commentary  on  our  intolerance,  that 
the  Catholic  papers  seem  to  be  without  exception  against  the  pro- 
posed iniquity. 

Mark  Twain  has  ''  met  the  enemy  and  they  are  his'n."  There  has 
been  a  great  deal  of  virtuous  but  stupid  rage  against  him  by  the  sort 
of  people  who  think  with  their  religious  emotions;  but  Mark  has 
flayed  them  with  their  own  sword — since  he  understands  ethics 
better  than  his  adversaries  do.  £^ven  the  Christian  Register  says  of 
Ament's  defense  :  "It  recalls  the  Scotch  verdict — ' not  guilty,  but 
don't  do  it  ag-ain.'  " 


aod  shot  as  true  in  hia  latest,  The  Octopus.  If  he  can  canr 
the  two  remainms  members  of  bis  projected  Trilogy  of  Wheat  on  as 
high  a  plane,  it  will  be  an  astonishing  performance.  If  too  visibly 
determined  by  Zola,  and  often  too  diligently  brutal  in  style,  it  has 
rather  tremendous  strength  and  scope,  and  its  local  coloration  of  the 
"Octopus"  is  almost  historical.  This  tragic  picture,  which  to  the 
stranger  will  seem  a  travesty,  is  really  a  fine  handling  of  the  abomin- 
able conditions  which  made  Califomiana  hate  not  railroads,  but  the 
kind  of  railroad  they  knew— here  thinly  masked  as  the  "  Pacific  and 
Sonthweatem."  The  historic  Mussel  Slough  slaughter,  the  '*  all- 
tbe-traffic-will-bear  "  policy,  the  corruption  of  legislatures,  the  shame- 
less confiscation  and  robbery  of  individuals — all  these  are  painted  to 
the  life.  The  character-drawing  la  less  inevitable  than  the  descrip- 
tion, perhaps.  "  Magnus  Derrick,"  the  wheat  king,  "  S.  Behrman," 
the  characteristic  railroad  tool,  and  "  Vanamee,"  the  recluse,  are  the 
most  striking  figures.  "Annexter  "  seems  a  willful  exaggeration  at 
first,  though  his  transformation  by  love  for"HiIma"  is  more  con- 
vincing. The  diaphanous  device  of  "  Presley  "  as  a  Markham  and 
Uan-with-the-Hoe  seems  hardly  good  workmanship.  And  It  must  be 
confessed  that  Mr.  Norris  is  not  yet  so  sure-handed  with  women  and 
love-stories  aa  with  rough-hewn  men.  -"  HUma  "  is  the  marble  for 
a  big  statue  ;  but  her  Pygmalion  lacked  the  glow  which  should  have 
informed  the  work  of  the  chisel.  But  all  in  all  the  book  is  a  most  un- 
common one  in  grasp  and  force  and  depth  of  current ;  such  an  energy, 
in  fact,  aa  very  few  American  authors  can  either  summon  or  harness. 
Donbleday,  Page  &  Co.,  New  Yoric.  C.  C.  Parker,  Los  Angeles, 
S1.50. 
wmsTOK  Prom  the  man  who  wrote  Richard  Carvel  we  have  naturally 

CHr^CfTTTJ.'S  handsome  expectations  ;  nor  does  he  disappoint  us  in  his  new 
"  CRISIS."  novel.  The  Crisis,  which  is  one  of  the  marked  books  of  the 
year.  Like  his  former  novel,  this  strikes  me  as  above  all  a  fine,  clean 
and  winning  love-story,  with  the  historical  stage-setting  effectively 
handled  and  reasonably  accurate  ;  with  some  very  excellent  character- 
drawing,  and  a  heroine  who  compels  us.  Such  characters  as  fine  old 
"Col.  Carvel,"  the  Uriah  Heep  of  an  "  Eliphalet  Hopper,"  the  hero, 
Stephen  Brice"  and  his  mother,  and  old  "Judge  Whipple,"  would  land 
favor  to  almost  any  story;  and  "Jinny"  is  an  even  more  irresistible 
heroine  than  her  own  forebear  "Dorothy"  in  the  author's  earlier 
success.  She  is  a  delightful  little  rebel.  The  historical  personages 
in  the  book  do  not  act  so  thoroughly  at  home  as  Mr.  Churchill's  owti 
creations.  Grant  and  Sherman  carry  it  off  fairly  ;  but  hia  Lincoln 
seems  to  me  a  sad  travesty — and  perhaps  it  is  not  quite  judicious  or 
modest  to  lay  the  hands  of  fiction  quite  yet  upon  that  mighty  figure. 
Nor  ia  the  role  of  Fremont  altogether  well  cast.  The  life  and  atmos- 
phere of  St,  Louis — then  a  hot-bed  of  aecesaion — just  before  and  dur- 


THAT    WHICH    IS    WRITTEN.  59 

ing:  the  civil  war,  make  an  efFective  setting'  for  a  storj  whose  human 
interest  promptly  seizes  upon  the  reader.  The  Macmillan  Co.,  66 
Fifth  Ayenue,  New  York.    $1.50. 

Arthur  Colton  evidently  maps  from  love  and  memory  of  his      thbir 
own  ^e  blue  distances  of  The  Delectable  Mountains  ;  and  for  azurb 

this  reason  particularly  he  interests  us  in  his  unidentified  hub* 

geography.  The  book  is  a  sequence  of  naive  and  sympathetic  stories 
of  boyhood  and  beyond.  From  their  very  boy-like  camp  and  sanctu- 
ary in  '*  the  Place  of  the  Abandoned  Gkxls,"  and  on  through  later 
fortunes  and  dreamings,  these  unspoiled  young*  people  win  us  and 
warm  us.  Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  153  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York. 
$1.50. 

Among  the  many  "nature  books" — of  which  many  are  not      in  Thb 
nature  but  artifice — ^there  is  welcome  for  so  sincere  a  volume  i«OVB  OP 

as  Wm.  H.  Boardman's   The  Lovers  of  the  Woods,    It  has  na.turb. 

charming  outdoor  color  and  feeling,  a  mellow  humor,  and  no  mean 
touch  of  woodcraft.  The  author  has  a  g'ood  eye  and  a  rather  deft 
hand ;  and  even  the  hardened  woodman  will  find  pleasure  between 
these  covers.    McClure,  Phillips  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.25. 

The  Inlander^  by  Harrison  Robertson ,  author  oi  I/I  Were  a      A  QUiBT 
Man^  is  the  sweet  and    simple  love-story  of  a  fine  unso-  ix>VB 

phisticated  Tennessean,  who  spills  his  heart  over  the  wrong  stort* 

girl  in  most  chivalrous  fashion,  goes  bitter,  and  finally  finds  and 
marries  the  right  one,  has  his  folly  of  jealousy,  and  finally  comes 
upon  the  traditional  "ever  after."  Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  153  Fifth 
Avenue,  New  York.    $1.50. 

Mary  Catherine  Judd's  Wigwam  Stories  is  a  child's  read-      Indian 
ing-book  far  and    away    above    its  class.      It  gives  fair  i^bgbnds 

sketches,  in  simple  terms,  of  a  g^reat  many  of  the  legends  WBi«i«  SKBTCHBD. 
of  the  North  American  Indians,  and  really  with  such  effect  that  older 
people  will  be  interested  and  touched  by  them.  It  has  also  much 
reasonable  information  about  Indian  character  and  customs.  Natur- 
ally in  such  a  book  there  are  errors  ;  but  in  this  case  they  are  fewer 
than  in  many  far  more  pretentious  volumes.  The  picture  on  p.  118  is 
not  a  Navajo  but  a  Moqui  weaver ;  that  on  p.  249  is  not  of  Pueblo 
women  but  of  Mexican  women  grinding  com.  The  Moqui  mesa  is 
not  800  feet  high,  nor  half  that.  The  Moqui!  maidens  are  not  "the 
only  Indian  maidens  who  do  not  leave  their  hair  hanging  down  their 
backs" — not  by  a  long  way.  But  these  and  like  errors  may  be  par- 
doned in  the  general  sanity  and  attractiveness  of  the  book.  A  special 
interest  is  added  by  several  illustrations  and  decorations  by  that 
brave  and  promising  young  Indian  artist.  Miss  Angel  de  Cora.  Ginn 
A  Co.,  13  Tremont  Place,  Boston. 

A  decidedly  unexpected  book  from  a  Northerner — or  per-      south 
haps  from  any  source — is  Henry  Bourland^  the  Passing  of  and 

the  Cavalier,    Perhaps  a  Southerner  could  not  have  written  north. 

so  fairly  of  that  Reconstruction  period  which  is  so  particularly  dirty 
a  page  in  our  annals ;  and  Albert  Elmer  Hancock's  novel  is  to  be 
praised  particularly  for  giving  the  truthful  if  gloomy  picture  of  that 
discreditable  politicianing  which  so  utterly  denied  and  so  nearly  un- 
did the  vast,  gentle  wisdom  of  Lincoln  and  the  soldierly  magnan- 
imity of  Grant.  Though  the  story  is  rather  subordinated  to  the 
historical  coloration,  it  is  a  good  story  ;  and  the  picturing  of  Gettys- 
burg— ^where  the  rebel  hero  is  "shot  to  pieces"  and  nursed  back  to 
life  by  a  Union  girl — of  the  Ku  Klux,  the  neg'ro  denomination,  the 
vulgar  carpet-baggers,  and  other  features  of  the  period,  would  make 
good  reading  without  a  story  at  all.  The  Macmillan  Co. ,  66  Fifth 
Avenue,  New  York.    $1.50. 


60  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

THB  An  unexpected  saltpetre  of  humor  crackles  in  the  ^ges  of 

CITY  Sidney  H.  Preston's  The  Abandoned  Farmer,  a  quiet  look- 

"haysbBd."  ing  volume  which  turns  out  to  be  most  uncommon  funny. 
The  experiences  of  the  typically  *'  tenderfoot"  first-person  and  his 
superior  wife  "  Marion'*  in  abandoning  their  city  cage  and  dwelling 
upon  an  abandoned  farm  are  told  with  a  certain  cleverness  which 
avoids  the  appearance  of  forcing  ;  thougH  in  less  adroit  hands  many 
of  the  situations  would  appear  far  fetched.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the 
author  has  made  a  very  diverting  story.  Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  153 
Fifth  Avenue,  New  York.    $1.25. 

MOT  QuiTB  T.  Jenkins  Hains,  author  of  The  Windjamtners,  has  put  to 

THB  WIDOW'S        sea  again  in  The  Cruise  of  The  Petrel;  a  tale  of  1812  and  a 

CRUSB.      privateering  that  was  as  good  as  piracy.    There  is  action 

enough,  and  not  badly  told  if  not  wholly  convincing.    The  book  is 

not  literature,  but  a  good  enough  story.    McClure,  Phillips  A  Co., 

New  York.    $1.25. 

BBNBATH  Dr.  B.  S.  Goodhue,  whose  Beneath  Hawaiian  Palms  and 

OTHBB  Stars  was  once  remarked  upon  in  these  pages,  seems  to  be  a 

*' PALMS."  proper  good  fellow  and  sound  physician.  One  of  his  many 
virtues  is  that  he  does  not  like  my  reviews.  Neither  do  I.  But  I  like 
his  letters  saying  so,  and  hope  for  another  soon.  His  new  book,  Out 
of  the  Pigeon-Moles,  carries  the  war  into  Africa,  and  will  doubtless 
make  all  reviewers  tremble — these  awful  "hack  writers"  whose  only 
business  is  to  '*  tear  down."  '*  About  the  easiest  thing  in  the  world 
is  to  be  a  critic," — and  so  it  is,  sometimes.  But  then  again  it  is 
hard.  Kven  Dr.  Goodhue  is  also  a  critic.  Amid  these  ^'essays" 
(apparently,  from  a  Michigan  medical  journal)  and  "  pomes"  in  many 
keys,  he  ftads  time  not  only  to  '*  tear  down"  the  critics  and  criticise 
Markham  and  Shakespeare  and  a  few  other  things,  but  to  favor  us 
with  his  conviction  :  **  I  do  not  think  Kipling  has  earned  the  title  of 
poet.  Kipling  cannot  last."  *'  All  genius  has  not  been  oxydized, 
and  much  of  it  keeps  out  of  the  standard  magazines."  Here  in  the 
book  is  a  lot  that  ''keeps  out."  A  friend  gets  into  the  book  with  : 
*'  Had  you  (Dr.  G.)  done  what  Markham  did,  it  would  not  have  sur- 
prised me."  Neither  would  it  have  surprised  the  doctor,  if  we  may 
guess  by  a  sample  feather  from  his  dove-cote: 

"  If  we  pass  up  our  fellows,  sir. 

Remember  now  we  offer 

To  soon  come  up  and  let  you 

Pass  us  if  you  like,  sir. 

So  do  not  pluck  us  since  we  are 

Such  plucky  loyal  boys,  sir. 

And  if  you  pass  us,  rest  assured 

We'll  never  pass  again,  sir." 
If  Markham  could  write  poetry  like  that,  and  pay  to  have  it  printed 
in  a  book,  he  wouldn't  need  to  fritter  himself  on  '*  standard  maga- 
zines" at  $100  a  page.    Geo.  F.  Butler  Pub.  Co.,  Alma,  Mich.    $1. 

The  Macmillan  Pocket  American  and  English  classics,  neat  16 
mos.,  in  levanteen,  now  include  31  volumes,  the  latest  being  Tenny- 
son's Idylls  of  the  King*    Portrait,  introduction  and  notes,  25c. 

The  Detroit  Photographic  Co.  is  publishing  some  of  the  finest 
color  photos  of  California  and  the  West  that  have  been  seen.  The 
negatives  are  by  that  dean  of  Western  photographers,  W.  H.  Jack- 
son, and  the  coloring  by  a  new  patent  process.    Detroit,  Mich. 

Frotn  a  Swedish  Homestead,  by  Selma  Lragerldf ,  translated  by 
Jessie  Brochner,  is  a  quiet,  homely,  attractive  recital  of  the  olden 
stories  and  some  modem  ones.  McClure,  Phillips  A  Co.,  New 
York.    $1.50. 


The  editorship  of  this  department  is  taken  np  as  a  matter      mbssagb 
both  of  duty  and  of  opportunity  and  with  the  joy  that  ^^  "^^^ 

lightens  every  Ubor  of  love.    The  writer  feels  that  he  U  auttDBRS. 

picking-  up  the  broken  thread  of  past  work  and  proceeding-  to  weave 
his  little  neb  of  public  opinion  at  the  same  old  shuttle  of  the  maga- 
zine pag«.  For  he  had  no  sooner  "discovered"  inigfation  and  the  new 
civilization  it  is  tninging  forth  from  the  dry  lands  of  the  West  than 
he  proceeded  to  launch  a  publication  wherein  he  might  preach  the 
gospel  to  the  heathen  on  both  sides  of  the  continent.  That  was  years 
ago.  And  even  if  it  be  said  by  those  who  shouldn't,  TSe  Irrigalion 
Age  was  influential  and  institntional.  It  stood  for  an  Idea.  It 
foaght  for  what  it  conc«ived  to  be  just  laws,  pro|p«ssive  policies,  and 
lofty  institutions.  It  shot  an  arrow  into  the  air  which,  falling  to 
earth  it  knew  not  where,  was  found  long  afterward  in  the  heart  of 
an  oak.  That  oak— now  bent  in  the  brecse  of  Faction,  now  swayed 
by  the  winds  of  Prejudice,  but  waxing  ever  stronger  and  higher — is 
a  mighty  Public  Sentiment.  The  river  of  events  which  flowed  from 
the  lonely  peak  of  personal  enthusiasm,  deepening  and  widening 
with  the  passing  years,  has  made  some  history  already  and  will  make 
far  more.  Some  day,  if  the  writer  be  spared  unto  gray  and  garrul- 
ous old  age,  he  hopes  to  tell  the  whole  story  of  the  rise  and  progress 
of  a  Cause  which,  originally  as  dry  and  repellant  as  thedeserta  them- 
selves, blossomed  at  last  into  strength  and  beauty  and  bore  the  white 
flower  of  civiliKation.  But  we  are  yet  in  the  thick  of  events.  Only 
the  threshold  has  ;been  crossed.  At  this  time,  rather  more  than 
ever  before,  there  is  need  of  preaching,  teaching  and  doing.  Why 
ahotUd  not  Thb  Land  of  Sdnssime — by  common  acknowledgment 
the  best  expression  of  our  literary  aspirations — also  carry  the  mes- 
sage of  the  builders  of  the  West  7  It  is  believed  that  it  may  do  so 
without  losing  any  of  its  usefulness,  and  even  with  substantial  gain 
to  ftll  elements  among  its  patrons.  It  ought,  indeed,  by  so  doing,  to 
widen  its  circle  of  influence  and  deepen  its  foundations  in  public 

Thenewc«nturyon  which  we  have  set  out  will  be,  in  many      onn 
respects,  the  most  illustrious  in  human  history.     In  a  pecu-  Fokb- 

liar  sense  it  will  be  the  century  of  the  Trans-Uissonri  West,  fathkrhood. 

-of  Irrigation  and  Arid  America.  We  who  are  here  today — a  mere 
handful  when  looked  at  in  the  large  Tlsion  of  the  futnre — will  be  re- 
.gnrdcd  as  forefathers  t>y  the  millions  who  com*  after  ns.    And  we 


62  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

bear  all  the  responsibilities  of  forefatherhood.  We  are  making'  the 
laws,  shaping  the  customs,  and  forming  the  institutions  of  a  land 
different  from  any  other  where  the  Anglo-Saxon  has  made  his  home 
The  new  environment  brings  us  a  brood  of  new  problems  and  issues; 
foremost  among  them,  those  growing  out  of  the  imperious  necessitj 
of  irrigation. 

THE  Now,    irrigation    is  a  manj-sided    affair.      Palpably   the 

ISSUB  OF  problem  of  the  engineer  and  the  farmer,  it  is  no  less  the 

^"^^  problem  of  the  student  of  economics,  the  social  philos- 
opher,  and  the  statesman.  There  is  a  whole  world  of  interest  in  it. 
Few  saw  that  this  was  so  at  first.  To  Western  people  it  bore  only 
the  aspect  of  a  hard  necessity,  and  to  H<astern  people  it  was  abso- 
lutely the  driest  and  dreariest  subject  that  could  be  mentioned.  To 
invest  it  with  human  interest,  to  show  its  relation  to  national  growth 
and  national  character,  to  make  it  an  issue  that  should  appeal  to  the 
heart  and  the  imagination  as  something  promising  vastly  to  improve 
the  estate  of  our  middle  classes, — "the  plain  people*'  of  I^incoln's 
phrase — was  a  task  of  prodigious  difficulty  not  to  be  accomplished  in 
a  day  nor  a  year.  To  have  accomplished  it  in  half  a  generation  is 
glory  enough  for  the  friends  of  the  movement  up  to  this  time.  At 
last,  all  this  is  realised  and  conceded  by  thinking  men  E^ast  and 
West,  and,  perhaps,  East  rather  more  than  West.  Such  recognition 
was  absolutely  essential  before  we  might  hope  to  take  up  the  subject 
in  all  its  aspects  and  proceed  to  solve  it.  But,  thank  God  1  the  time 
has  come  when  this  may  be  done.  And  solving  it  is  the  price  of 
growth  and  development  to  the  West ;  the  price  of  peace  and  safety 
to  the  nation  at  large. 

THB  After  the  water  has  been  provided  we  must  have  the  set- 

INDISPENSABI^B  tier.  Sometimes,  it  must  be  confessed,  we  get  the  settler 
SKMi^R.  ^^^  g^jj^  ^jjg  water  afterwards.  That,  however,  is  neither 
safe  nor  logical,  to  say  nothing  of  its  honesty.  The  problem  of  set- 
tlement is  attended  with  difficulties  second  only  to  those  which  sur- 
round the  primary  question  of  irrigation.  Without  the  settlers  to 
occupy  the  lands,  reservoirs  and  canals  are  practically  worthless. 
Millions  of  dollars  have  been  invested  without  a  proper  appreciation 
of  this  fact.  Even  those  most  familiar  with  the  situation  have  been 
slow  to  realise  that  there  are  certain  fundamental  differences  between 
the  colonization  of  lands  that  are  irrigated  and  those  that  depend 
upon  natural  rainfall  for  their  productiveness.  To  our  obtuseness  on 
this  subject  are  due  many  bad  investments  and  quite  a  number  of  dis- 
appointed settlements.  What  class  of  colonists  are  best  suited  to 
home-making  on  irrigated  lands  ?  Where  are  they  to  be  sought  and 
by  what  methods  enlisted  ?  How  should  their  labors  be  organized 
and  directed  to  get  the  best  results  ?  What  is  the  best  size  of  the 
farm  unit  under  the  conditions  that  prevail  in  California  and  other 
States  of  the  arid  region  ?  What  class  of  crops  should  the  settlers 
be  encouraged  to  produce  ?  And  how  can  these  crops  best  be 
marketed  ?    These  are  a  few  of  the  many  questions  involved  in  the 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  63 

problem  of  settlement  which  follows  so  closely  upon  irrigation  in 
any  giyen  place.  They  are  questions,  too,  that  we  shall  deal  with 
upon  a  constantly  growing  scale  as  the  development  of  the  country 
progresses. 

The  strongest  force  in  the  economic  life  of  the  United      "Thou 
States  today  is  cooperation.    The  ablest  and  most  success-  shax,T 

fnl  men  in  the  country  are  preaching  this  gospel  in  the  most  ^.w^**       ^. 

practical  and  eloquent  fashion,  since  deeds  speak  louder  than  words. 
There  is  something  in  the  condition  of  the  times  which  drives  men 
into  acting  together.  Now,  it  most  fortunately  happens  that  of  all 
lands  on  the  face  of  the  earth  those  which  are  compelled  to  resort  to 
irrigation  are  most  favorably  situated  for  the  employment  of  this 
commanding  force  in  our  national  life.  The  early  settlements  along 
the  Atlantic  coast,  and  in  the  valleys  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi, 
did  not  develop  the  cooperative  characteristic  extensively  because 
neither  the  times  nor  the  physical  conditions  demanded  it.  Men 
felled  the  forest  or  turned  the  prairie  sod,  tilled  the  land  and  built 
towns  and  cities,  with  very  little  of  that  organized  cooperation  which 
is  the  dominant  spirit  of  today.  But  the  first  patch  of  potatoes  was 
not  planted  in  Arid  America  without  a  perfect  example  of  such  or- 
ganization. If  it  had  been,  there  would  have  been  no  harvest  and 
silence  would  reign  unbroken  in  the  Salt  Lake  Valley  of  Utah,  the 
classic  land  of  American  irrigation.  Rivers  cannot  be  turned  from 
their  courses  by  the  labor  of  individuals  working  singly  and  alone. 
On  the  mountains  and  rivers  and  deserts  of  this  far-western  country 
Nature  has  written,  in  language  that  may  neither  be  misunderstood 
nor  disobeyed :  "Thou  shalt  cooperate  I  "  Failing  to  recognize  this 
fact,  we  should  fail  in  any  effort  to  interpret  the  history  of  our  finest 
examples  of  western  civilization.  And  how  utterly  should  we  fail  to 
grasp  the  possibilities  of  our  future ! 

In  the  foregoing  paragraphs  the  editor  has  set  forth,  briefly      thb 
and  superficially,  the  scope  of  this  department  as  it  will  be  editoriai, 

developed  hereafter.    Irrigation,  colonization,  cooperation —  progkam. 

these  are  the  three  great  questions  involved  in  the  making  of  our 
Twentieth  Century  West.  They  present  many  and  various  aspects 
and  may  be  discussed  from  widely  differing  standpoints.  But  they 
cannot  be  avoided.  They  are  the  three  great  foundation-stones 
whereon  shall  rise  the  future  civilization.  The  superstructure  to  be 
built  upon  them  will  be  ugly  or  beautiful,  weak  and  flimsy,  or  solid 
and  enduring  as  our  everlasting  mountains,  according  as  these 
foundations  shall  be  laid  false  or  laid  true.  Reverting  again  to  the 
f orefatherhood  of  the  sparse  generation  now  dwelling  among  these 
mountains  and  valleys  and  along  this  western  seacoast,  it  is  easy  to 
realize  our  responsibility  to  the  future — to  our  children  and  our 
children's  children. 


64  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

THE  We  can   hope  to  make  no  progress  with  the  discussion  of 

VIRTUE  OF  matters,  so  vital  to  the  readers  of  this  mag^ine,  unless  at 

TOi^BRANCB.  ^j^^  beginning  we  promise  to  be  tolerant  of  each  other's 
opinions  and  patient  with  each  other's  differences.  Of  all  human 
virtues  that  of  tolerance  is  not  far  from  the  first.  Nothing  can  be 
settled  among  bigots.  Bigotry  can  not  even  learn  ;  much  less  can  it 
impart.  The  writer  is  aware  that  there  are  able  and  honest  men  who 
differ  with  him  upon  each  of  the  three  questions  which  are  chieflj  to 
be  discussed  in  this  department.  He  is  also  gratefully  aware  that  there 
are  many  who  agree  with  him.  What  we  all  want  to  do  is  to  find  the 
simple,  glorious  truth,  because  we  are  all  interested  in  having  the 
truth  prevail.  We  all  want  onr  beloved  West — our  beloved  Arid 
America — to  be  the  best  land  under  the  sun.  We  are  interested  alike 
in  its  present  prosperity  and  in  the  institutions  which  are  to  be  en- 
joyed by  those  who  shall  live  here  when  we  have  done  our  little  work 
and  gone  our  unknown  way.  There  is  not  one  among  us  who  imag. 
ines  that  he  or  his  family  can  be  made  prosperous  through  the  misery 
or  disappointment  of  all  the  other  millions,  nor  is  there  one  mean 
enough  to  seek  prosperity  by  that  method  even  if  he  believed  it  could 
be  had.  It  is  an  accepted  maxim  that  while  truth  cannot  suffer  from 
the  light,  error  languishes  from  exposure.  What  better  service,  then, 
can  this  department  do  for  the  men  and  women  who  are  building  the 
West,  and  for  those  other  builders  who  are  going  to  join  us  hereafter, 
than  to  take  up  vital  questions  for  fair,  honest,  unprejudiced  discus- 
sion ?  Promising  to  be  tolerant  himself,  the  editor  of  this  depart- 
ment asks  his  readers  of  every  shade  of  opinion  to  meet  him  in  the 
same  spirit.  He  will  be  glad  of  their  criticisms  and  suggestions. 
Many  of  them,  doubtless,  he  has  had  the  pleasure  of  addressing  from 
the  public  platform  or  from  the  pages  of  various  newspapers  and 
magazines.  Many  more  he  hopes  to  meet  in  that  way  hereafter,  and 
he  will  always  be  glad  to  receive  communications  from  those  who 
have  anything  to  offer  in  favor  or  against  ideas  suggested  in  these 
pages. 

SOME  In  the  next  number  of  this  department  the  railroad  move- 

AUGUST  ments  now  making  for  the  development  of  the  Southwest 

FEATURES.  ^jjj  ^  reviewed,  and  the  influence  which  recent  combina- 
tions in  transportation  lines  may  exert  upon  Western  settlement  and 
production  will  be  carefully  considered.  Another  feature  of  interest 
will  be  a  review  of  the  condition  and  prospects  of  the  various  fruit 
exchanges  of  California,  especially  those  handling  the  citrus,  raisin 
and  prune  crops.  Some  important  aspects  of  the  struggles  of  lyos 
Angeles,  Sacramento,  San  Diego  and  Redlands  with  the  problems  of 
municipal  water  supply  will  be  treated  in  relation  to  a  possible  future 
policy  of  public  irrigation  works.  Prof.  D.  T.  Fowler  of  Berkeley 
will  tell  the  story  of  the  Rochdale  cooperative  movement  in  Cali- 
fornia, and  the  first  installment  of  a  series  of  studies  on  "  How  to 
Colonize  the  Pacific  Coast"  will  appear. 


65 

State  and  National  Irrigation 

Policies. 

BOTH  PARTS  OF  A  COMMON  CAUSIS,   **ONB  AND  INSEPARABI^E. " 

*PTER  ten  years  of  organized  ag^itation,  as  vigorous, 
tireless  and  persistent  as  was  ever  accorded  in 
support  of  a  popular  cause,  the  irrigation  move- 
ment is  now  upon  the  verge  of  its  first  great  triumph. 
Nothing  can  cheat  it  of  this  victory  save  discord,  di- 
vision,  and  cross^purposes  among  its  friends.  Is  there 
danger  from  this  source  ?  Unhappily,  it  seems  that  there 
is.  If  such  be  the  fact  it  would  be  a  poor  service  to  at- 
tempt to  disguise  it  and  a  good  service  frankly  to  admit  it 
and  then  proceed,  if  possible,  to  explain  away  the  grounds 
of  misunderstanding  from  which  it  arises. 

I. 

ON  CERTAIN  MISUNDERSTANDINGS. 

At  its  last  session  the  National  Irrigation  Congress 
adopted  a  platform  as  admirable  as  it  was  brief.  But  to 
declare  that  it  is  the  duty  of  the  Nation  to  store  the  floods 
and  preserve  the  forests  ;  that  water  rights  should  inhere 
in  the  land  irrigated,  and  actual  beneficial  use  be  the  meas- 
ure of  the  right,  is  one  thing ;  while  to  frame  a  precise 
measure  to  carry  these  ideas  and  principles  into  effect, 
reconciling  the  delicate  relations  existing  between  the  sev- 
eral States  and  the  Nation,  is  a  thing  entirely  different  and 
infinitely  more  difficult,  and  yet  the  latter  must  be  accom- 
plished before  there  can  be  any  substantial  result.  To 
have  a  member  from  Nevada  introducing  one  bill,  a  mem- 
ber from  Colorado  framing  another,  a  member  from  Idaho 
suggesting  a  third,  and  a  member  from  Utah  characteriz- 
ing all  the  proposed  legislation  as  probably  unconstitu- 
tional— this,  surely,  is  a  perilous  way  of  making  progress. 

When  to  ttis  complicated  and  tortuous  method  of  states- 
manship we  add  internal  dissensions  among  those  foremost 
in  the  championship  of  the  cause,  we  are  certainly  not 
working  out  a  great  policy  which  shall  make  homes  for 
millions  at  an  early  date.  As  to  the  internal  dissensions, 
it  is  clear  to  the  writer  that  they  arise  wholly  from  mis- 
understandings which  it  ought  to  be  possible  to  correct. 

In  California,  irrigation  sentiment  is  strongest  at  the 
South.  This  sentiment  was  offended  at  the  very  beginning 
of  the  State  movement  in  a  manner  as  needless  as  it  was 
deplorable.  The  simple  truth  is  that  those  who  committed 
the  offense  of  casting  reflections  upon  the  National  move- 
ment entirely  failed  to  appreciate  its  dignity  and  import- 


66  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

ance.  They  had  not  been  personally  in  touch  with  it  and 
knew  nothing:  of  its  wide  and  thorough  organization. 
Their  ignorance  of  the  matter  betrayed  them  ^  into  a  blun- 
der which  earned  the  opposition  of  some  of  i  the  best  and 
strongest  influences  in  the  southern  counties. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  attacks  recently  made  upon  the 
leaders  of  irrigation  thought  in  the  great  arid  States  of 
Wyoming,  Colorado,  Nebraska,  Utah,  Idaho  and  Nevada — 
attacks  emanating  from  some  of  the  most  conspicuous  ad- 
vocates of  National  irrigation  in  Southern  California — are 
equally  harmful  and  unfortunate.  All  that  is  now  needed 
to  make  the  brewing  of  our  hell-broth  complete  is  for  the 
Rocky  Mountain  leaders  to  denounce  their  Southern  Cali- 
fornia critics  in  terms  of  equal  bitterness.  When  this  has 
been  done,  and  the  scandal  of  our  dissensions  aired  in  the 
halls  of  Congress  by  some  of  our  dearest  enemies  from  the 
East  and  Middle  West,  we  shall  have  defeated  ourselves 
more  completely  and  miserably  than  could  have  been  ac- 
complished by  all  the  inertia  and  positive  opposition  in 
other  parts  of  the  country. 

Is  it  not  possible  at  this  supreme  moment  in  the  history 
of  the  movement  to  avoid  misunderstanding  and  to  work 
together  for  the  result  we  all  desire  ?  The  writer  so  hopes 
and  believes,  and  the  object  of  this  article  is  to  enable  him 
to  do  what  he  can  to  that  end. 

n. 

TH^  STATKS  MUST  CONTROI,  DISTRIBITTIGN  OF  WATBR. 

One  of  the  propositions  upon  which  all  scientific  au- 
thority in  the  West  seems  to  be  agreed  is  that  control  over 
the'appropriationi'and'distribution  of  non-navigable  streams 
must  be  exclusively  exercised  by  the  States. 

In  the  first  place,  several  States,  including  those  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains  holding  the  headwaters  of  important 
streams,  entered  the  Union  with  .this  distinct  provision  in 
their  constitutions.  Without  repealing  the^e  constitutions 
and  disturbing  the  entire  fabric  of  the  irrigation  industry 
the  necessity  of  State  control  of  our -irrigation  administra- 
tion could  not  be  abolished. 

But  it  has  never  been  suggested,  by  statesman  or  jurist, 
by  Congress,  political  party  or  commercial  organization, 
that  this  function  should  be  taken  from  the  States  and 
turned  over  to  the  Nation  even  if  such  a  revolution  might 
readily  be  accomplished.  It  would  be  as  unnatural  a  pro- 
ceeding as  to  taLke  the  control  of  roads  from  county  and 
State  authorities,  or  as  to  take  the  control  of  streets,  side- 
walks, and  fire  departments  from  cities  and  towns.     To 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  67 

handle  the  details  of  the  irrigation  industry  distinctly  be- 
longs to  the  sphere  of  local  government.  What  public 
man  or  public  body  is  on  record  to  the  contrary  ?  Surely 
neither  of  the  great  political  parties  which  last  year,  for 
the  first  time,  recognized  the  existence  of  the  irrigation 
issue  in  their  platforms.     The  Republicans  declared  : 

*'We  recommend  adequate  National  appropriations  to  re- 
claim the  arid  lands  of  the  United  States,  reserving  control 
of  the  distribution  of  water  for  irrigation  to  the  respective 
States  and  Territories,^'* 

The  Democrats  declared : 

**  We  believe  it  to  be  the  duty  of  the  general  government 
to  provide  for  the  construction  of  storage  reservoirs  and 
irrigation  works,  so  that  the  water  supply  of  the  arid  re- 
gions may  be  utilized  to  the  greatest  possible  extent  in  the 
interest  of  the  people,  while  -preserving  the  rights  of  the 
States^'' 

The  Irrigation  Congress,  the  Trans-Mississippi  Con- 
gress and  other  public  bodies  of  the  most  representative 
character, "  have  repeatedly  adopted  declarations  to  the 
same  effect.  Let  the  point  be  made  clearly.  Practically 
everybody  now  agrees  that  it  is  desirable  to  have  the 
Nation^d  Grovernment  build  reservoirs  beyond  the  scope  of 
private  capital,  particularly  for  the  irrigation  of  lands  still 
a  part  of  the  public  estate.  But  when  these  reservoirs  are 
built,  nobody,  apparently,  proposes  that  any  authority  isave 
that  of  the  several  States  shall  be  charged  with  the  duty 
of  making  and  administering  laws  governing  the  appro- 
priation and  distribution  of  the  water  so  secured,  together 
with  the  water  already  in  use.  If  this  much  be  admitted, 
we  are  ready  to  take  up  another  branch  of  the  subject. 

m. 

STATB  RKFORM  MUST  PRKCKDS  NATIONAI,  CONSTRUCTION. 

The  States,  then,  are  to  control  the  distribution  of  water 
to  be  impounded  in  National  reservoirs.  We  are  asking 
the  nation  to  furnish  some  tens  of  millions  of  dollars  in 
order  that  the  irrigated  area  of  the  West  shall  be  multi- 
plied, and  especially,  in  order  that  the  arable  portions  of 
the  public  lands  may  be  thrown  open  to  settlement.  Clearly, 
it  is  of  the  highest  importance  to  the  American  people  that 
the  water  supplies  which  they  shall  undertake  to  furnish 
shall  be  so  used  as  to  secure  these  ends. 

What  is  the  present  condition  of  the  water  laws  in 
nearly  all  Western  States,  including  California  ? 

They  are  utterly  unsuited  to  the  needs  of  an  arid  region. 
Our  necessities  demand  that  every  drop  of  water  shall  be 
taken  out  of  natural  channels  and  conducted  over  the  land 


68  LAND   OF  SUNSHiNE. 

until  the  last  possible  acre  shall  have  been  redeemed.  And 
yet,  in  most  of  our  States,  we  have  the  riparian  law  which 
commands  us  to  let  the  stream  flow  as  it  has  always  flowed, 
'*  unimpaired  in  quality  and  undiminished  in  quantity/' 
This  incongruous  law,  though  slightly  modified  by  judicial 
decisions,  is  a  lion  in  the  path  of  progress. 

Over  the  precious  right  of  appropriation,  which  lies  at 
the  foundation  of  every  valid  claim  to  water,  we  exercise 
no  supervision  whatever.  When  a  stream  has  been  claimed 
ten  times  over  we  still  allow  new  appropriators  to  come  in 
and  claim  it  again  and  again.  There  is  no  remedy  except 
litigation — litigation  endless  and  pitiless. 

And  even  all  this  litigation  frequently  decides  nothing. 
Why  ?  Because  we  have  no  public  authority  over  the  dis- 
tribution of  water.  Each  man  tends  his  own  headgate 
and  defies  his  neighbor  to  get  what  belongs  to  him,  spite 
of  judicial  decrees. 

If  National  reservoirs  could  be  constructed  without  any 
accompanying  reform  of  these  vicious  laws  what  would 
the  result  be  when  the  new  supply  should  be  turned  into 
the  streams  ?  It  would  be  something  not  far  from  civil 
war.  Canal  proprietors  would  turn  out  with  henchmen 
and  shotguns  to  take  violent  possession  of  all  the  water 
they  could  get  into  their  headgates.  Water  provided  at 
public  cost  for  public  uses  would  be  gobbled  by  private 
canals  and  offered  for  sale.  The  evils  arising  out  of  present 
conditions  would  be  intensified. 

Is  it  imagined  that  these  stern  facts  are  not  appreciated 
by  Western  Congressmen,  and  even  by  those  of  the  East 
who  take  our  cause  at  all  seriously  ?  With  scarcely  a 
stream  in  the  arid  regions  not  already  over-appropriated, 
these  lawmakers  well  understand  that,  before  National 
reservoirs  can  effect  the  desired  results,  old  rights  must  be 
adjudicated  and  a  good  system  of  public  supervision  be 
established  to  safeguard  the  appropriation  and  distribution 
of  the  new  supplies  which  it  is  proposed  to  mingle  with 
the  common  flood  of  our  streams. 

Hence,  it  may  be  said  that  State  reform  must  precede,  or  at 
least  accompany,  the  actual  initiation  of  the  policy  of 
National  irrigation.  Those  who  insist  upon  setting  our 
house  in  order  by  the  adoption  of  these  reforms  are  the 
best  friends  of  the  National  movement.  And  every  friend 
of  the  National  movement  should  stand  for  State  reform. 
The  two  policies  are  so  closely  interwoven  that  they  must 
stand  or  fall  together. 

Are  not  these  facts  perfectly  plain  ?  If  so,  should  not 
every  man  who  wants  to  see  our  dry  land  watered  and 
peopled,  stand  shoulder  to  shoulder  for  both  these  policies  ? 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST,  » 

IV. 
THE  CHBYSNN9  CONPSiUSNCE. 

The  imblic  land  aspect  of  the  irrigation  question  is  far 
more  urgent  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  States  than  in  Cali- 
fornia, because  a  much  larger  proportion  of  the  former  still 
belongs  to  the  government.  These  States  are  also  ahead 
of  California  in  their  ideals  of  water  legislation,  owing  to 
the  influence  of  Wyoming,  whose  pioneer  statesmen  early 
placed  it  upon  the  right  track. 

So  it  happened  that  a  conference  was  called  to  meet  at 
Cheyenne,  to  be  attended  by  State  Engineers  and  Senators 
and  Representatives  in  Congress.  The  avowed  object  of 
the  meeting  was  to  frame  a  definite  measure  of  legislation 
to  be  urged  at  Washington  next  winter.  This  conference 
has  been  vigorously  attacked  as  something  quite  inimical 
to  the  National  movement.  Klwood  Mead — one  of  the 
fathers  of  National  irrigation,  twice  president  of  the  Irri- 
gation Congress,  ten  years  State  Engineer  of  Wyoming, 
lecturer  at  Berkeley,  Harvard,  Wesleyan,  New  York  and 
Princeton  on  Irrigation  Economy,  and  Expert  in  Charge 
of  Irrigation  Investigations  for  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment— was  denounced  as  the  evil  spirit  of  the  enterprise. 
His  career  and  his  fame  place  him  beyond  the  need  of 
defence. 

The  truth  is  that  the  Cheyenne  conference  was  called  at 
the  instance  of  certain  members  of  Congress  who  desire  to 
see  the  West  united  on  some  practical  measure,  and  then 
to  lend  their  personal  aid  in  having  it  enacted.  They  de- 
sired to  meet  the  State  Engineers  because  they  are  men  of 
wide  information  and  special  training  in  this  department 
of  knowledge. 

The  possibility  that  the  lands  may  be  ceded  to  the 
States  has  been  mentioned  in  current  criticisms  of  the 
Cheyenne  conference.  So  far  as  the  writer  is  informed, 
this  fear  is  wholly  groundless.  Ten  years  ago  the  strong- 
est influences  in  the  West  favored  this  policy.  They  did 
so  because  it  seemed  to  them  the  only  feasible  means  of 
overcoming  the  stagnation  of  the  arid  region.  The  few 
who  openly  favored  National  works  at  that  time  were  de- 
nounced as  crazy  Socialists.  There  seemed  no  hope  except 
that  the  States  might  be  induced  to  assume  the  burden 
that  the  Nation  rejected.  But  a  wonderful  change  has 
come  over  public  sentiment  in  a  few  short  years.  Nearly 
everybody  prefers  that  the  Nation  should  reclaim  its  own 
lands.  We  have  persuaded  ourselves  that  it  will  do  so. 
The  new  policy  has  so  many  advantages  over  the  old  that 
we  shall  fight  for  its  accomplishment  so  long  as  it  seems 


70  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

possible.    And,  happily,  it  seems  more  and  more  possible 
with  every  passing*  year. 

The  whole  object  of  the  Cheyenne  cx)nference  was  to 
render  the  adoption  of  the  National  policy  more  probable 
and  to  hasten  its  coming. 

V. 

A  FSASIBLS  MEASURE  LOOKING    TO    STATE    AND    NATIONAL 

COOPERATION. 

The  measure  of  legislatien  which  shall  meet  all  the  needs 
of  the  situation,  and  command  the  united  support  of  the 
friends  of  irrigation,  must  be  framed  in  the  light  of  all  the 
foregoing  facts.  It  must  satisfy  the  demands  of  those 
who  believe  the  chief  point  just  now  is  to  inaugurate  the 
policy  of  National  appropriations  for  the  construction  of 
National  works.  It  is  equally  important  that  it  should 
recognize  the  justice  and  necessity  of  State  administration. 
Finally,  the  measure  must  give  full  assurance  to  the 
Nation  that  the  interests  of  all  its  citizens  will  be  pro- 
tected, and  that  the  land  and  water  to  be  brought  together 
as  the  result  of  this  work  shall  be  used  to  the  advantage 
of  the  people  at  large. 

It  will  not  be  disputed  that  all  measures  so  far  proposed 
have  fallen  far  short  of  this  ideal.  Some  of  them,  by  ig- 
noring existing  rights  in  water  and  failing  to  make  any 
provision  for  a  plan  of  cooperation  between  States  and 
Nation,  would  have  resulted  in  presenting  to  the  West  a 
Pandora's  box  of  troubles.  Others  would  have  endangered 
the  interests  of  the  American  people  in  their  great  patri- 
mony of  public  land.  None  of  them  has  commanded  any- 
thing approaching  united  support  at  the  West,  nor  im- 
pressed Eastern  legislators  with  the  feeling  that  we 
thoroughly  grasp  the  situation  and  are  able  to  deal  with 
it  upon  broad  lines  of  statesmanship. 

Since  the  adjournment  of  Congress  last  March  some  of 
the  best  informed  men  in  the  West  have  conferred  among 
themselves  with  a  view  of  developing  a  sound  plan  of 
action.  While  it  is  not  to  be  pretended  that  definite  re- 
sults have  yet  been  obtained,  it  now  appears  as  if  the 
long-desired  measure  would  be  framed  upon  the  following 
lines: 

1.  The  groundwork  of  the  new  policy  will  be  the  bill 
introduced  last  winter  by  the  Hon.  Francis  G.  Newlands 
of  Nevada.  Its  chief  provisions  are  as  follows :  All 
monies  received  from  the  sale  of  arid  lands  (now  amount- 
ing to  about  $4,000,000  a  year)  shall  constitute  an  Arid 
Land  Reclamation  Fund  and  be  available  for  the  construc- 
tion of  storage  reservoirs  and  main  canals  to  be  used 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  71 

chiefly  for  the  irrigfation  of  public  lands ;  lands  thus  re- 
claimed shall  be  open  to  the  entry  of  actual  citizens  in 
tracts  not  exceeding  forty  acres  to  each  entryman ;  such 
lands  shall  be  sold  at  the  rate  of  $10  per  acre  upon  easy 
terms  of  payment ;  water  stored  in  excess  of  the  needs  of 
public  lands  in  any  given  locality  may  be  purchased  by  the 
owners  of  private  lands  at  the  rate  of  $10  per  acre  ;  funds 
received  from  sale  of  lands  and  water  shall  be  returned  to 
the  Reclamation  ^und  and  applied  again  in  the  same 
manner. 

2.  A  proposed  addition  to  the  Newlands  bill  shall  pro- 
vide that  only  those  States  may  avail  themselves  of  the 
Arid  Land  Reclamation  Fund  which  shall  have  first 
enacted  legislation  providing  for  the  adjudication  of  all 
existing  rights  and  for  public  supervision  of  appropria- 
tion and  distribution  of  water.  In  other  words,  no  State 
will  receive  National  aid  unless  it  has  established  a  good 
system  of  administration.  A  precedent  for  this  policy  was 
established  when  the  Carey  Law  was  enacted  in  1894, 
granting  one  million  acres  of  public  lands  to  each  of  the 
States  upon  the  sole  condition  that  said  States  should  first 
enact  the  certain  supplemental  legislation  dictated")  by/ the 
act  of  Congrress. 

3.  Another  addition  to  the  Newlands  bill  shall  provide 
for  the  creation  of  a  National  Irrigation  Commission  con- 
sisting of  three  members,  one*  from  the  Interior  Depart- 
ment, one  from  the  War  Department,  and  one  from  the 
Agricultural  Department.  It  would  be  the  duty  of  this 
commission,  as  representing  the  Nation,  to  pass  upon  and 
authorize  all  projects  to  be  undertaken  with  the  aid  of 
National  appropriations.  Before  such  works  could  actu- 
ally be  begun  this  Commission  would  certify  to  their  sound- 
ness and  feasibility  from  engineering,  financial  and  agri- 
cultural standpoints.  Actual  construction  could  be  done 
under  joint  National  and  State  Supervision,  as  in  the  case 
of  the  debris  work  now  under  way  in  California ;  or  by 
either  State  or  National  administration,  as  shall  be  de- 
termined. Perhaps  the  first  method  will  best  meet  all  the 
needs  of  the  situation,  since  it  is  founded  upon  the  idea  of 
cooperation  between  the  interested  powers. 

Is  there  anything  in  the  foregoing  plan  which  may  not 
cordially  be  approved  both  in  Southern  California  and  in 
Wyoming  ?  True,  we  shall  not  be  satisfied  ultimately  with 
so  small  an  appropriation  as  $4,000,000  a  year,  especially 
when  results  shall  have  demonstrated  the  wisdom  of 
National  aid  to  irrigation.  But  the  great  thing  now  is  to 
make  a  beginning.  Those  most  familiar  with  the  temper 
of  Congress  believe  the  Newlands  bill  can  be  passed,  but 


7a  LAND   OF  SUNSHiNE. 

are  not  hopeful  of  lar^re  immediate  appropriations  inde- 
pendent of  current  receipts  arising  from  the  sale  of  lands. 

The  provision  which  the  suggested  plan  would  make  for 
State  administration  is  absolutely  essential  from  the  con- 
stitutional standpoint,  and  is  necessary  as  a  guarantee  to 
the  Nation  that  when  the  flood  waters  have  been  impounded 
they  will  be  applied  in  good  faith  as  a  means  of  giving  the 
people  access  to  public  lands.  The  provision  of  a  National 
Commission  composed  of  representatives  of  three  existing 
departments  will  entail  practically  no  expense,  yet  provide 
precisely  the  expert  supervision  which  all  agree  to  be  in- 
dispensable. 

In  conclusion,  it  cannot  be  too  strongly  urged  that  State 
and  National  irrigation  are  both  integral  parts  of  one 
great  plan.  This  fact  is  thoroughly  accepted  by  those  who 
are  striving  for  a  reformed  and  unified  system  of  State 
laws.  Is  it  not  equally  plain  to  those  who  have  been  de- 
voting their  efEort  chiefly  to  the  National  cause  ?  I  may, 
perhaps,  appropriately  close  this  article  in  the  words  with 
which  I  opened  the  campaign  of  the  California  Water  and 
Forest  Association  at  Los  Angeles  one  year  ago : 

"In  my  anxiety  to  make  the  point  plain,  I  am  even 
tempted  to  venture  upon  a  paraphrase  of  the  immortal  elo- 
quence of  Webster  where,  in  the  reply  to  Hayne,  noblest 
thought  was  joined  to  noblest  speech,  and  to  say  :  Behold 
the  gorgeous  ensign  of  our  cause,  still  full  high  advanced, 
bearing  for  its  motto  no  such  miserable  interrogatory  as, 
What  is  all  this  worth  f  Or,  those  other  words  of  delusion 
and  folly,  Nation  first  and  State  afterwards^  but  blazing  on 
all  its  ample  folds,  as  they  float  over  mountain,  valley  and 
plain,  and  in  every  wind  under  the  whole  heavens,  that 
other  sentiment,  dear  to  every  true  American  heart.  State 
and  Nation,  now  and  forever,  one  and  inseparable." 

The  National  Irrigation  Congress  is  ten  years  old  this 
year,  and  the  approaching  session  at  Buffalo  next  October 
would  be  justified  in  celebrating  the  event.  The  first  Con- 
gress was  held  at  Salt  Lake  City  in  1891.  The  subsequent 
sessions  were  as  follows :  Los  Angeles,  1893 ;  Denver, 
1894  ;  Albuquerque,  1895  ;  Phoenix,  1896  ;  Lincoln,  1897  ; 
Cheyenne,  1898;  Missoula,  Mont,  1899;  Chicago,  1900. 
The  Presidents  of  the  organisation  have  been  C.  C.Wright, 
J.  S.  Emery,  Elwood  Mead  (twice),  John  E.  Prost,  John 
M.  Carey  (twice),  C.  B.  Boothe,  and  Thomas  J.  Walsh. 
The  Chairmen  of  the  National  Committee  ha\re  been 
Arthur  L.  Thomas,  William  E.  Smythe,  E.  R.  Moses,  and 
George  H.  Maxwell. 

William  E.  Smythb. 


73 

How  We  Adjudicated  the  Water 

Rights  of  Wyoming 

BY  FRED  BOND,  STATE  KNOtNEKR. 

^rtHE  worst  evil — that  of  ceaseless  litigation  over 
^1  water  rights — that  afflicts  the  irrigation  industry 
of  California  is  now  utterly  unknown  in  Wyoming. 
When  the  Territory  became  a  State  provision  was  made 
for  the  adjudication  of  the  existing  claims  to  the  streams 
as  a  preliminary  to  the  thorough  and  practical  assertion  of 
the  public  authority  over  all  the  water  supplies.  As  this 
must  of  necessity  constitute  the  first  step  in  any  intelligent 
reform  of  the  California  laws  some  brief  account  of  how  it 
was  accomplished  in  Wyoming  will  be  of  interest  at  this 
time. 

The  method  of  adjudication  requires  that  all  claims  for 
water  from  the  streams  of  the  State  shall  be  brought  be- 
fore one  tribunal,  the  State  Board  of  Control.  In  order 
that  the  Board  ma}'  have  before  it  in  the  work  of  adjudica- 
tion all  the  necessary  physical  facts,  the  stream  is  gaged, 
and  the  ditches  and  the  lands  irrigated  measured  and 
mapped,  under  the  direction  of  the  State  engineer.  Pub- 
licity is  secured  by  a  notice  in  some  newspaper  of  the 
county  in  which  the  stream  is  located,  of  the  time  of  be- 
ginning of  the  survey  and  examination  of  the  lands  and 
ditches  and  of  the  place  and  time  of  taking  testimony  in 
support  of  existing  claims.  The  superintendent  of  the 
division  in  which  the  stream  is  located  is  also  required  to 
send  by^  registered  mail  a  copy  of  this  notice  to  each  part}^ 
having  a  recorded  claim  to  the  waters  of  the  stream  under 
adjudication.  A  blank  is  also  mailed  with  this  notice. 
These  statements  include  all  the  important  facts  necessary 
to  an  understanding  of  the  claim. 

At  the  time  and  place  fixed  in  the  notice  for  the  taking 
of  testimony  the  claimants  appear  before  the  division 
superintendent  and  each  under  oath  prepares  his  statement. 
If  statements  that  cannot  be  included  in  the  form  used  are 
needed  to  complete  the  presentation  of  any  case  they  are 
reduced  to  writing  and  certified  to  under  oath  This  is  not 
often  necessary,  as  the  blank  form  covers  all  the  essential 
facts  for  the  establishment  of  a  right.  After  the  state- 
ments are  completed,  a  notice  by  publication  and  by  regis- 
tered mail  is  given  to  all  claimants  that  at  a  named  time 
and  place  all  the  claims  submitted  will  be  open  for  in- 
spection. This  gives  each  claimant  full  opportunity  to  ex- 
amine the  other  statements  and  to  know  exactly  what  is 
claimed  by  others.  As  all  the  ditches  and  lands  irrigated 
have  been  measured  and  mapped,  and  the  division  superin- 


74  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

tendent  has  made  a  personal  investigfation  of  all  the  works 
before  the  claimants  come  to  him,  and  the  engineer  who 
made  the  survey  is  present  at  the  examination,  the  state- 
ments accord  closely  with  the  facts,  and  there  is  usually 
little  ground  for  disagreement.  If,  however,  anj^  claimant 
desires  to  contest  the  claim  of  another,  notice  must  be 
served  on  the  division  superintendent  within  fifteen  days 
after  the  inspection.  The  contest  is  heard  before  the 
division  superintendent  in  accordance  with  the  rules  and 
practice  governing  in  ordinary  civil  suits  The  superin- 
tendent of  the  division  has  authority  to  issue  subpoenas 
and  compel  the  attendance  of  witnesses  necessary  for  a 
proper  hearing  of  the  case.  Before  beginning  the  hearing 
the  contestant  and  contestee  each  deposit  eight  dollars  with 
the  division  superintendent.  If  the  hearing  lasts  more 
than  a  day  like  sums  are  deposited  for  each  succeeding  day. 
After  the  Board  has  reached  a  decision  the  deposit  of  the 
party  in  whose  favor  the  case  is  decided  is  returned,  that  of 
the  loser  is  turned  into  the  State  treasury  to  the  credit  of 
the  maintenance  fund  of  the  Board  of  Control.  This  rule 
tends  to  prevent  the  filing  of  false  claims  as  well  as  to  dis- 
courage contests  except  for  good  cause.  In  the  whole  his- 
tory of  the  Board  there  have  not  been  to  exceed  a  dozen 
contests. 

The  statements  of  the  claimants,  all  testimony  taken  in 
the  contested  cases,  copies  of  records,  reports  of  surveys, 
and  maps  of  ditches  and  lands  irrigated,  are  then  sub- 
mitted to  the  Board  of  Control,  which  proceeds  to  deter- 
mine the  extent  and  priority  of  each  right.  The  Board  is 
so  constituted  as  to  peculiarly  fit  it  for  this  work  of  adju- 
dication. The  State  engineer,  who  is  president  and  execu- 
tive head  of  the  Board,  brings  to  his  task,  in  addition  to 
professional  skill  and  knowledge  of  the  flow  of  the  streams, 
the  resources  of  a  well-equipped  office  with  expert  engineer- 
ing assistants.  If  special  or  technical  information,  not 
secured  at  the  preliminary  examination,  is  needed  for  the 
proper  adjudication  of  any  case,  it  can  be  obtained  at  first 
hand.  The  superintendent  of  a  division  in  which  the 
stream  is  located  has  made  a  special  study  of  this  stream 
and  has  full  knowledge  of  the  uses  of  water  made  by  the 
other  appropriators,  and  is  familiar  with  all  the  local  con- 
ditions. The  other  three  superintendents  are  by  the  work 
in  their  own  division  specially  prepared  for  an  intelligent 
and  impartial  consideration  of  all  the  questions  involved. 
Such  a  tribunal  does  not  need  to  act  on  prejudiced,  incom- 
petent and  conflicting  testimony  as  to  acres  irrigated, 
capacity  of  ditches  and  flow  of  streams.  That  the  super- 
intendents must  distribute  the  water  in  accordance  with 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  75 

their  own  findings  is  an  effective  safeguard  against  any 
hasty  or  careless  procedure  and  is  a  constant  and  effective 
stimulus  to  careful  and  well-considered  action  at  every 
step  of  the  adjudication. 

In  determining  the  extent  and  priority  of  these  rights, 
certain  well  defined  principles  are  kept  in  view.  These 
are : 

First.  That  water  is  not  subject  to  private  ownership, 
but  is  the  property  of  the  State. 

Second.  That  the  Board  of  Control  is  the  trustee  for 
the  administering  of  a  great  public  trust  in  the  interests  of 
the  people  of  the  State. 

Third.  That  all  rights  to  divert  water  from  the  streams 
must  be  based  on  beneficial  use,  and  that  the  right  termi- 
nates when  the  use  ceases. 

Fourth.  That  the  volume  diverted  shall  in  all  cases  be 
limited  to  the  least  amount  actually  necessary  for  the  ac- 
complishment of  the  purposes  of  the  diversion. 

Fifth.  That  under  no  circumstances  shall  the  water  di- 
verted for  irrigation  exceed  one  cubic  foot  per  second  for 
each  70  acres  of  land  actually  irrigated. 

Sixth.  That  the  right  to  the  use  of  the  public  waters 
attaches  only  to  the  use  for  which  the  right  was  originally 
obtained. 

Seventh.  That  the  right  of  diversion  for  irrigation 
attaches  to  the  land  reclaimed  and  none  other ;  that  the 
transfer  of  the  land  carries  with  it  the  right,  and  that 
apart  from  the  land  the  right  cannot  be  transferred. 

Eighth.  That  when  a  ditch  waters  land  not  the  prop- 
erty of  the  ditch  owner  the  right  attaches  to  the  land  on 
which  the  water  is  used  and  not  to  the  ditch.  The  owner 
of  the  lands  irrigated  makes  the  proof  of  appropriation  and 
the  certificate  is  issued  to  him.  No  certificate  of  appropria- 
tion can  be  issued  to  a  ditch  owner  for  the  watering  of 
land  not  his  own.  The  ditch  owner  is  a  common  carrier 
and  is  subject  to  regulation  as  such. 

Ninth.  That  when  proper  diligence  has  been  exercised 
in  the  construction  of  works  and  in  applj'ing  the  water  to 
the  purpose  for  which  it  is  diverted,  the  priority  is  fixed  by 
the  date  of  beginning  the  survey.  When  diligence  is  lack- 
ing, the  priority  dates  from  the  time  of  use. 

At  first  the  effect  of  the  application  of  these  principles 
was  not  clearly  understood,  and  these  radical  departures 
from  all  previous  practice  were  by  some  viewed  with  alarm 
as  tending  to  further  unsettle  rights  and  complicate  the 
already  difficult  problem.  Especially  was  there  opposition 
to  the  limitation  of  rights  to  the  use  on  the  lands  actually 
irrigated.     Each  appropriator  was  inclined  to  stand  for  the 


76  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

amount  of  his  filing.  But  when  the  claims  of  the  Little 
Laramie,  the  first  stream  adjudicated,  were  reduced  to  form, 
and  these  with  the  map  showing  the  streams  and  ditches 
and  irrigated  lands  were  submitted  for  the  inspection  of 
the  irrigators,  there  was  a  complete  change  of  sentiment. 
It  was  at  once  seen  that  to  make  the  appropriation  on  the 
basis  of  the  filings  would  give  all  the  water  to  the  first 
half  dozen  claimants  and  would  leave  120  other  ranchmen, 
many  of  whom  had  used  water  for  years,  without  any 
legal  rights  in  the  stream.  On  the  other  hand,  it  was  now 
clear  that  the  policy  outlined  by  the  Board  would,  while 
protecting  the  earl)*^  appropriators,  give  every  one  water 
for  the  land  he  had  actually  reclaimed.  The  idea  that 
rights  should  be  based  on  use  and  be  limited  to  the  land 
irrigated  took  on  a  new  meaning.  Even  the  earlier  ap- 
propriators, whose  filings  covered  everything,  and  from 
whom  opposition  was  to  be  expected  if  from  any,  recog- 
nized the  justice  and  wisdom  of  what  was  proposed,  and 
the  opposition  vanished.  In  all  the  work  of  adjudication 
these  principles  have  been  adhered  to  with  results  gener- 
ally satisfactory  to  the  irrigators.  In  the  ten  years  which 
have  elapsed  since  this  law  was  enacted  more  than  4,000 
Territorial  claims  have  been  adjudicated.  At  every  step  of 
the  process  provision  has  been  made  for  appeal  from  the 
findings  of  the  Board  to  the  district  court.  But  since  the 
Board  was  organized  but  three  appeals  have  been  made  and 
in  each  case  the  Board  was  sustained.  During  the  summer 
of  1900  the  Territorial  rights  on  the  Grey  Bull  river  were 
adjudicated.  There  were  236  of  these  claims,  some  of  them 
dating  back  over  20  years.  The  adjudication  was  accom- 
plished without  a  contest  and  without  one  appeal  from  the 
findings  of  the  Board. 

When  the  determination  of  rights  on  a  stream  has  been 
completed,  a  certificate  is  issued  by  the  Board  of  Control  to 
each  lawful  appropriator,  setting  forth  the  priority  and 
volume  of  his  diversion  and  describing  the  land  to  which 
the  right  attaches.  The  right  attaches  to  these  lands  and 
to  no  other. 

The  fundamental  idea  in  the  establishment  of  a  water 
right  in  Wyoming  is  that  public  interests  are  to  be  first 
considered,  and  that  it  is  the  business  of  the  Board  of  Con- 
trol to  guard  and  protect  the  interests  of  all  the  citizens  of 
the  State  both  present  and  prospective.  The  adjudications 
of  the  Board  are  not  contests  between  private  interests,  but 
are  a  ministerial  inquiry  into  the  acts  by  which  a  citizen 
seeks  to  become  a  partaker  in  the  bounty  of  the  State. 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  77 

A  New  Plymouth  in  Idaho. 

jr  ^OW  to  get  the  settlers  for  new  districts  in  the  West, 
i^H«  especially  settlers  possessed  of  character  and  suf- 
ficient  capital,  is  one  of  the  problems  of  which  we 
have  never  known  too  much.  The  Plymouth  Colony  of 
Idaho  furnishes  some  light  on  this  subject,  although  neither 
an  old  nor  a  great  settlement. 

The  Plymouth  effort  began  with  the  adjournment  of  the 
National  Irrigation  Congress  of  1894,  held  at  Denver  in  the 
autumn  of  that  year.  A  few  who  had  been  prominent  in 
this  movement  conceived  the  idea  of  establishing  a  colony 
which  should  illustrate  the  feasibility  of  making  small 
farms  on  the  arid  lands.  Localities  in  eight  States  were 
examined  before  the  site  was  selected.  What  was  wanted 
was  a  tract  of  fertile  soil,  watered  by  a  completed  irrigation 
system  with  abundant  supplies,  and  then  a  local  interest 
which  would  be  warranted  in  backing  an  earnest  effort  with 
a  promotion  fund  of  reasonable  amount. 

The  right  conjunction  of  favorable  conditions  was  found 
in  the  Payette  vajley,  in  the  southwestern  corner  of  Idaho, 
near  the  Oregon  boundary.  Here  was  a  large  tract  of  the 
most  fertile  bench  lands,  covered  with  tall  sagebrush.  The 
point  selected  was  twelve  miles  from  the  Oregon  Short  Line 
railroad  and  the  same  distance  from  the  nearest  town.  A 
few  settlers  had  already  located  in  the  valley,  but  practi- 
cally it  was  a  wilderness.  The  Payette  river,  one  of  the 
largest  tributaries  of  the  Snake,  is  a  noble  perennial  stream, 
having  sufficient  volume  at  its  lowest  stage  to  irrigate  more 
land  than  the  valley  contains.  The  climate  of  the  locality 
may  be  described  as  the  best  type  of  the  temperate  zone. 
While  the  extremes  of  winter  cold  and  summer  heat  are 
very  considerable,  it  is  an  excellent  climate  both  for  men 
and  for  crops. .  It  is  suited  also  to  the  production  of  -  the 
more  delicate  fruits,  such  as  prunes  and  peaches. 

Having  selected  the  land  and  secured  the  necessary  pro- 
motion fund,  the  colony  leaders  went  East  to  enlist  settlers. 
The  plan  of  settlement  which  had  been  mapped  out  had 
two  or  three  unique  features.  In  the  first  place,  it  was  de- 
sired that  the  colonists  should  be  quite  self-sufficient,  and 
to  this  end  they  were  urged  to  diversify  their  crops  so  that 
they  might  produce  the  variety  of  things  which  they  would 
consume.  Exclusive  fruit  culture  was  believed  to  be  an 
evil  which  would  in  time  bring  a  harvest  of  disappoint- 
ment to  those  who  built  their  hopes  upon  it.  In  the  second 
place,  it  was  thought  feasible  for  many,  if  not  all,  the  set- 
tlers to  assemble  their  homes  in  a  village  center,  so  that 
they  might  realize  unusual  social  advantages  from  the  be- 


78  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

ginning.  Finally,  business  cooperation  was  provided  for 
by  the  formation  of  a  company  in  which  all  the  settlers 
were  to  be  stockholders.  This  company  was  to  own  the 
townsite  and  siich  simple  industries  as  might  be  created 
from  time  to  time 

The  colony  obtained  its  first  impulse  in  Boston,  where 
the  battle  cry,  **It  is  time  for  a  New  Plymouth!"  was 
warmly  echoed  by  a  number  of  influential  men,  of  whom 
Edward  Everett  Hale  was  foremost.  A  public  meeting 
was  held  and  a  brief  account  of  it  telegraphed  to  the  news- 
papers throughout  the  country.  Strangely  enough,  not  a 
single  settler  was  obtained  in  Boston.  But,  even  more 
strangely,  the  Boston  meeting  resulted  in  the  speedy  en- 
listment of  a  fine  nucleus  at  Chicago,  to  which  point  the 
campaign  was  quickly  transferred  as  the  result  of  the 
manifestation  of  an  unmistakable  degree  of  public  interest. 

The  Chicago  work  began  with  a  modest  meeting  at  the 
Grand  Pacific  Hotel  early  in  March,  1895  These  meetings 
were  continued  at  intervals  of  one  week  over  a  period  of 
nearly  two  months.  The  Plymouth  Society  of  Chicago 
was  formed  at  the  first  meeting.  Its  membership  gradually 
increased,  until  250  heads  of  families  were  enrolled  at  the 
end  of  the  brief  campaign.  It  is  worth  while  to  note  the 
fact  that  it  was  the  colony  plan,  especially  the  social  ad- 
vantages of  moving  a  number  of  families  at  one  time  and 
grouping  their  homes  in  a  village  center,  that  aroused  the 
deepest  interest,  rather  than  the  advantages  of  the  locality 
in  which  the  settlement  was  to  be  made.  Very  little  was 
said  about  profits  to  be  realized  by  the  settlers.  Their  at- 
tention was  riveted  upon  the  proposition  of  making  homes 
where  they  could  work  for  themselves  and  achieve  an  inde- 
pendence in  the  midst  of  pleasant  surroundings.  In  a 
word,  most  of  the  things  which  colony  boomers  do,  the 
Plymouth  promoters  left  undone ;  while  most.of  the  things 
colony  promoters  leave  undone,  the  Plymouth  promoters 
religiously  did. 

At  the  seventh  meeting,  a  committee,  consisting  of  five 
men  and  two  women,  was  chosen  to  visit  Idaho  and  report 
upon  the  location  and  colony  plan.  The  society  defrayed 
every  cent  of  the  committee's  expenses,  instructing  it  to 
make  the  trip  unaccompanied  by  the  promoters,  to  travel 
just  as  setlers  would  be  expected  to  do,  and  to  receive  none 
but  the  most  ordinary  courtesies  while  in  Idaho.  The 
Society  desired  an  honest  report.  However,  it  was  found 
that  the  location  and  feasibility  of  colony  plan  were  all 
that  had  been  represented,  and  the  report  was  in  the 
highest  degree  favorable. 

When  the  committee  returned,  actual  settlers  were  in- 
vited to  declare  themselves  by  making  a  substantial  pay- 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  79 

ment  on  account  of  land  and  colony  stock.  Porty-four 
families  responded,  trustees  were  chosen,  work  on  the  town 
site  ordered  to  begfin,  and  a  few  months  later  the  main  body 
of  the  colonists  went  forward.  They  succeeded  in  making 
what  is  perhaps  the  most  notable  settlement  in  Idaho. 
They  have  prospered  steadily  from  the  begfinning  and 
many  other  settlers  have  followed  them  to  the  Payette 
valley.  The  irrigation  works  and  large  tracts  of  land, 
which  originally  belonged  to  an  Eastern  company,  have 
passed  into  the  hands  of  these  settlers.  The  original 
colony  plan  has  been  carried  out  to  a  large  extent,  especi- 
ally its  social  features.  These  have  been  a  great  blessing 
to  the  settlers. 

The  lesson  of  the  Plymouth  effort  is  that  one  good  way 
to  get  settlers  is  by  means  of  meetings,  lectures,  and  the 
formation  of  clubs,  and  by  encouraging  investigation  by 
committees  composed  of  intelligent,  unprejudiced  men  and 
women.  Another  lesson  is  that  the  class  of  homeseekers  is 
far  more  interested  in  getting  homes  and  a  living  than  in 
glittering  promises  of  enormous  profits  to  be  obtained  in  a 
few  years  without  much  labor.  Another  prime  advantage 
of  the  Plymouth  plan  which  should  not  be  overlooked  is 
that  settlers  like  to  be  moved  in  groups  rather  than  by 
single  families.  Actually,  it  seems  easier  to  get  forty  fam- 
ilies to  move  to  a  new  country  together  than  to  get  one  alone 

A  Study  of  California  Irrigation. 

|OSSIBLY  the  most  important  government  document 
dealing  with  California  issued  in  recent  years  is  the 
elaborate  forthcoming  work  from  the  Bureau  of  Ir- 
rigation Investigations.  The  studies  which  form  the  basis 
is  of  this  work  were  conducted  during  the  summer  of  1900 
b3'  a  body  of  eight  experts  under  the  management  of  El- 
wood  Mead.  The  aim  of  the  investigation  was  to  lay  bare 
the  actual  operations  of  existing  California  water  laws. 
To  this  end  eight  typical  streams  were  selected  and  a  well 
known  expert  assigned  to  each.  The  experts  were  assisted 
b3'  employees  of  the  agricultural  department  in  measuring 
streams,  making  abstracts  of  the  records  of  water  filings, 
and  collecting  judicial  decisions. 

When  the  work  had  been  finished,  after  months  of  labor, 
the  experts  compared  results  and  united  in  favor  of  a  series 
of  recommendations  aiming  at  the  reform  of  present  laws 
and  the  abuses  growing  out  of  them.  The  book,  hand- 
somely illustrated,  is  now  going  through  the  government 
press  at  Washington.  Those  who  desire  to  obtain  it 
should  make  early  application  to  their  Congressman. 


The  Resorts  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia. 

Jl^HERE  is  no  country  in  the  world  of  the 
'I        population    of   Southern   California., 
^       that  has  so  many  attractive   resorts 
easily  reached   and  of    such  varied  char- 
ter.   They  are  strung:  along  the  sea-board 
e  pearls  on  a  silver  wire,  or  nestle  in  the 
epcaiions  of  the  Sierras,  or  cap  some  of  the 
{hest  points  of  the   range,  ofFering'  to  the 
lasure-seeker  every   possible   altitude   and 
matic  condition.      In   some   incomprehen- 
>le  manner  the  oasis  of  Southern  Califor- 
nia,  one    of  the  garden   spots   of  the 
earth,  between  the  desert  and  the  deep 
sea,  has  become  famous  as  a  winter 
resort,   while,   in   reality,   there   is  no 
summer  climate  in  any  civilised  land 
that  compares  to  it  where  a  comfort- 
able summer    outing-  is  the  objective. 
The  tourists  seem;determined  to  make  it 
Opc  Sakta  Bakbaha.  ^^^  American  Riviera.     They  come  in 

November  and  leave  in  May,  thus  losing 
the  most  perfect  months  of  the  year ;  but  the  time  is  probably  coming 
when  the  resorts  of  Southern  California  will  have  as  large  a  quota  of 
Extern  and  European  visitors  in  summer  as  in  winter.  There  is  an 
embarrassment  of  riches  in  deciding  where  to  go  in  summer.    If  one 


StiU^WATB*  BOATINd  A 


SUMMER   RESORTS-  81 

is  fond  of  sport  it  is  an  easy  matter.  The  Sierras  abound  in  trout 
«lreams  and  game  of  various  kinds.  Mt.  Lowe  and  Wilson's  Peak 
look  down  on  gentle  streams  telling  of  the  Hving  rainbow  that  lurks 
in  their  pools,  while  farther  east,  near  Strawberry  Valley,  are  lakes 
stocked  with  mountain  lake  trout  that  offer  tine  sport  in  season. 
The  fact  that  the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  Southern  Califor- 
nia live  within  eight  or  ten  miles  of  mountain  ranges,  the  Sierras 
or  the  smaller  range  of  which  Mt.  Santiago  is  the  sentinel,  lends 
an  attraction  to  the  sea.  Santa  Barbara  and  its  attractive  islands, 
Ventura,  Santa  Monica,  with  its  promenade,  its  bathing  facilities,  its 
beautiful  homes,  its  polo  and  golf,  backed  by  the  Sania  Monica 
range,  and  perhaps  the  Newport  of  this  galaxy— Ocean  Park.  In 
this  new  resort  we  have  a  charming  evidence  of  the  probability 
that  in  a  few  years  the  entire  coast-line  will  be  a  summer 
city.  Att  the  sports  and  pastimes  of  the  Eastern  Newport 
are  found  here  in  miniature,  with  a  climate  that  the  real 
Newport  never  dreamed  of.  Following  along  the  beach  we 
find  Terminal  Island,  with  its  artistic  cottages,  its  miles  of 
electric  lights,  its  fine  surf,  its  yacht-club  and  fleet  of  racers,  and 
still'water  boating,  the  popular  summer  home  of  many  Los  An- 
geles families.     Opposite  lies  Santa  Catalina,  which  recalU  Bar  Har- 


SUMMER    RESORTS. 


bor  of  th«  East,  though  the  place  is  unique,  a  wandering  n 
range  stranded  off  shore,  where  the  mouths  of  caiions 
bays,  and  where  the  angler,  he  of  the  rod  and  reel,  finds  a  field  that 
has  no  equal,  as  on  the  entire  Southern  California  mainland  coast 
there  is  no  smooth  water  for  rod  fishermen  in  small  tKiats,  but  at 
Santa  Catalina  and  San  Clemente  one  may  float  on  seas  of  glass 
and  fight  the  tuna,  sea  bass  and  yellowtail  in  peace  and  comfort,  as 
here  there  is  a  lee  from  the  long  seaa  that  come  in  from  the  deep. 

The  game  commissioners  of  the  State  of  Maine  estimate  the 
value  of  the  rod-fishing  sport  to  the  State  at  four  million  dollars. 
To  any  one  who  knows  how  many  people  go  forth   to  fish  in  the 


SUMMER   RESORTS. 


A  D*y-s  Catch  at  Coromado. 

United  States — to  Florida,  Maine,  the  Adirondacka  and  Canada 
—-it  is  evident  ^iiat  tiiU  wooderful  fishing-  ground  and  its  monopoly 
of  the  tuna  fishing  will  before  many  years  be  one  of  the  greatest 
mag-nets  in  drawing-  people  from  the  East.  The  mainland  is  the 
Riviera,  the  "American  Italy"of  Charles  Dudley  Warner;  the  opposite 
islands  constitute  the  American  Madeira.     Redondo,  nith  its  fine 


:'.  F.  Holder  Tlai 


SUMMER    RESORTS. 


The  Record  Tuna  and  OiHeiis  at  Avalos. 

nharf  fishing,  its  hotels  and  cottages,  its  sig-htly  location,  lies  oppo- 
site, deservedly  a  popular  and  fashionable  resort,  where  cool  breezes 
fan  the  cheek  all  summer  long'.  Prom  the  sea  on  summer  nig-hts  the 
coast-line  for  mites  is  studded  with  the  lights  of  these  charming 
resDrtH,which,with  theirhotels,  cottages  and  hauntsof  pleasure,  would 
do  credit  to  many  places  a  century  old  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  There 
is  one  of  the  finest  beaches  in  America,  giving  a  hard  drive  of  miles 
in  extent  at  low  tide,  reminding  one  of  the  famous  tracks  of  Nahant 
and  Femandino.  It  is  well  named  Long  Beach— the  site  of  a  flourish- 
ing city  by  the  sea,  which  in  summer  is  augmented  by  thousands 
from  the  inland  cities,  who  And  in  the  fine  surf  bathing,  the  long 
piers  reaching  out  into  the  ocean,  the  yachts  that  lie  in  the  ofiing, 
attractions  which  bring  them  back  year  after  year.  The  recent  com- 
pletion of  the  Hotel  Rivera  has  removed  the  only  handicap  Long 
Beach  has  had  since  the  burning  of  its  large  tourist  hotel  some  ten 
years  ago.  Long  Beach  reminds  one  of  the  towns  south  of  Long 
Branch,  near  Asbury  Park,  iNew  Jersey,  one  of  the  most  populous 
summer  resorts  in  America.  Here  the  Chautauqua  society  meets, 
and  golf,  polo  and  the  sixe  of  fish  are  questions  not  so  much 
discussed  as  at  other  points  along  shore.  Between  Long  Beach 
and  Coronado  there  are  many  small  resorts  and  beaches,  delightful 
resting  places  for  the  summer  lounger — Newport,  San  Juan  Capis- 
trano,  Santiago  Canon,  Del  Mar,  and  many  more  leading  on  to 
Coronado — which  affords  both  Californians  as  well  as  the  people 
near  the  Mexican  line  a  summer  climate,  like  all  the  rest,  as  near  per- 
fect as  can  be  imagined.  Then  the  great  and  perfectly  equipped 
hotel,  the  pure  artesian  water,  library,  museum,  surf  and  hot  baths 
all  have  their  attractiveness.  The  inland  bay  for  still  water  boating, 
and  illuminated  night  floats  is  also  an  unrivalled  feature.     Its  tents 


"    DlSCOVEKIES    AT    TUKHI 


SUMMER   RESORTS. 


At  Stbawhbrhv  Vallbv— S2S0  Pbet  Above  the  Ocban. 

oil  the  long  peninsula  are  already  famous  as  "Tent  City"^pave(l, 
sewered,  lighted  and  orderly.  Here  one  can  liave  everything  ready 
to  order  from  furnished  tent  to  spring  chicken,  or  furnish  his  own 
equipment  of  tent,  food,  etc.,  and  make  choice  of  social  games  and 
pastimes  or  religious  services. 

The  objective  of  the  average  citizen  who  has  a  vacation  before  him 
is  sport,  and  the  ocean  that  breasts  the  Southern  California  coast  i^ 
the  finest  fishing  ground  known,  for  the  good  reason  that  it  has  the 
game  fishes.  There  is  the  leaping  tuna  found  only  here,  ranging 
from  50  to  250poundB — the  rod  record  ;  the  black  sea  bass,  ranging  up 
to  375  pounds  ;  the  white  sea  bass  from  20  to  70  pounds ;  the  gamy 
yellowtail  from  17  to  50  pounds;  the  bonita,  rock  bass,  surf  fish,  albi- 
core,  and  many  more,  alTording  a  range  for  the  rod  fisherman— the 
thorough  sportsman — unequaled  in  the  annals  of  sport.  The  people 
of  this  coast  are  not  obliged  to  go  East  or  abroad  to  find  summer 
joys,  climatic  or  otherwise  ;  they  are  at  their  own  doors,  and  the 
doors  are  wide  open  all  along  shore— and  from  mesa  to  high  sierra. 


San  Joaquin  County  and  Stockton, 

THE  Gateway  City. 


! 


BY  COIVIN    B.    BROWN. 

'N  ages  gone,  long  before  the  time  of  man,  so 
goes  the  record  written  in  the  earth's  great 
sepulcher  of  rock,  strange  monsters  disported 
themselves  in  an  inland  sea  where  now  lie  the 
interior  valleys  of  California.  Mountains  rose 
and  fell ;  water  courses  and  glaciers  carved  the 
face  of  nature  in  rugged  peaks  and  pinnacles, 
and,  in  time,  were  themselves  obliterated.  Ages 
followed  ages,  and  sediment  heaped  on  sediment 
filled  up  the  great  basin  between  parallel  moun- 
tain ridges,  forming  a  soil  so  rich  and  deep  that 
its  equal  is  scarce  to  be  found  elsewhere  in  the 
world. 

In  the  center  of  this  great  basin,  where  the 
soil  is  deepest  and  richest  and  where  the  remains 
of  a  prehistoric  ocean  exist  in  thousands  of 
acres  of  reclaimed  peat  land,  lies  the  county 
of  San  Joaquin.  Where  the  sobbing  waves 
arose  and  fell,  and  the  screaming  sea  bird 
winged  its  noisy  flight,  now  lie  miles  upon 
miles  of  grains  and  grasses,  vines  and  fruit 
trees. 

Of  this  rich  land  there  are  912,000  acres, 
capable  of  supporting  a  population  as  large 
as  that  of  the  most  densely  populated  West- 
ern State.  The  people  of  San  Joaquin  are 
fond  of  relating  instances  of  what  this  soil 
has  done  and  is  doing.  They  tell  of  an  Italian 
who,  in  twenty  years,  has  accumulated  a  bank 
account  of  $60,000  as  the  result  of  tilling  an 
acre  and  a  half  of  ground.  If  questioned  they 
will  admit  that  the  largest  part  of  this  was 
obtained  by  judicious  investment  of  the  an- 
nual revenues  from  the  little  garden  patch  ; 
still  they  hold  it  up  as  an  example  of  what 
their  soil  will  do.  They  will  tell  you  that  the  gardeners  down  the 
river  are  raising  300  sacks  of  onions  to  the  acre  as  a  regular  thing, 
and  all  other  vegetables  in  a  corresponding  proportion.  These 
vegetables  are  exceptionally  early,  and  hundreds  of  carloads  are 
sent  into  the  middle  West  every  year,  where  they  command  good 
prices. 

Vegetables,  however,  form  but  a  small  part  of  the  agricultural 
wealth  of  San  Joaquin  county.  Its  great  source  of  agricultural 
wealth  is  its  wheat.  Here  is  the  home  of  the  combined  harvester,  a 
machine  which  the  Eastern  farmer  refuses  to  believe  in  until  he  has 


The  Grii>i.by  Monument. 


SAN    JOAQUIN    COUNTY    AND    STOCKTON.  93 

seen  it.  His  relatives  who  come  West  and  return  to  tell  him  that 
Galifomiana  harvest  their  grain  by  means  of  a  machine  propelled  by 
steam  or  drawn  by  thirty-six  horses,  and  that  such  a  machine  has 
been  known  to  cut,  thresh  and  sack  100  acrca  of  fjrain  in  a  day,  are 
scoffed  at.  But  this  is  true,  and  more.  Grain  can  be  cut  in  the 
morniDg-,  ground  into  flour  in  the  afternoon,  and  made  into  biscuits 
in  the  evening.  This  is  possible  on  account  of  the  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere,  the  grain  actually  "curing"  while  still  on  the  atalk. 


Owin^  to  the  improved  methods  of  farming  on  a  large  scale,  San 
Joaquin  county  farmers  find  grain-growing  the  least  onerous  of  all 
lines  of  agriculture.  There  are  but  two  seasons  of  lal>or,  namely, 
seed-time  and  harvest.  The  rest  of  the  time  the  farmer  may  be  a 
man  of  leisure.  This,  coupled  with  the  fact  that  there  is  a  certain 
market  for  his  wheat  crop  and  a  chance  that  the  price  may  go  up, 
causes  him  to  engage  in  this  industry  when  there  are  others  which 
promise  a  more  profitable  return.  The  resultisthat  half  the  acreage 
of   the  county,   or.  to  be  more  specific,  500,000  acres,  are  sown  to 

That  part  of  the  county  which  is  n:it  planted  to  grain  or  vegetables 


LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 


is  set  out  in  fruit  trees,  vineyards  or  alfalfa.  Last  year  San  Joaquin 
county  had  3.500  acres  of  vineyard,  and  hundreds  of  additional  acres 
have  been  set  out  this  year.  Of  all  fruit  and  nut-bearing  trees,  the 
almond  takes  iirst  rank  in  quantity.  The  apricot,  peach,  prune,  pear, 
fig',  olive,  cherry,  oranj^e  and  lemon  folloir  in  the  order  named,  ac- 
cording' to  the  county  assessment  roll. 

The  agricultural   industry   next   in   importance  to  grain  and  fruit 
growing  is  dairying.     Thousands  of  acres  of  land  have  been  planted 
to  alfalfa,  and,  for  the  past  few  years,  the  annual  increase  in  thor- 
oughbred  milk   cattle   has   been   very  large.     It  is  confidently  pre- 
dicted that  thisinduatry  will,  Ijefore  many  years,   be  more  important 
than  grain  growing.     Alfalfa  grows  to  its  greatest  perfection  when 
properly  irrigated,  and  there  is  a  tine  irrigation  system  in  San  Joaquin 
county.     Experts  from  the  United  Slates  Department  of  Agriculture, 
who  have  gone  over 
the  field,  report  that 
it    offers    unexcelled 
on  Dortu  nities   for 


R  Hav  hv  Machimekv.  Pholo.  hj- Tibbeli*. 


SAN    JOAQUIN    COUNTY    AND    STOCKTON.  95 

manufacture  of  milk  products.  The  people  have  only  of  late  yeara 
begun  to  appreciate  what  this  means  for  them.  All  of  the  con- 
ditions which  have  made  Holland  the  dairying  center  of  the  world 
exist  in  this  county,  and  it  has  none  of  Holland's  disadvantages. 
In  other  words,  its  land  and  canal  taxes  are  low  and  it  is  summer 
all  the  year  round.  It  is  argued,  and  with  apparent  reason,  that  if 
the  Dutch  farmer  can  produce  butter,  cheese  and  condensed  milk  for 
the  European  market,  in  the  face  of  the  highest  land  and  canal  tax 
known,  while  at  the  same  time  t>eing  compelled  to  house  and 
feed  his  stock  six  storm-driven  months  each  year,  the   San   Joaquin 


county  farmer  has  a  much  better  opportunity  to  make  money  out 
of  dairying- 
Men  may  plan  to  put  the  center  of  commercial  life  here  there  or 
other  where,  but  the  force  which  for  ages  has  been  at  work  forming' 
the  rich  alluvial  deposits  in  San  Joaquin  county  has  decided  the  ques- 
tion. Nature  has  declared  that  this  great  district  shall  bring  forth 
abundantly  and  that  man  shall  here  have  a  home  where  he  can  pro- 
duce everythinfc  necessary  for  hia  comfort.  Man  has  read  the  mes- 
sage and  steadily  and  prosperously  the  county  has  grown.  The 
people  delight  in  telling  the  stranger  that  Stockton,  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment of  this  county,  has  always  prospered;  that  during  panic 
years  its  banks  have  stood  firm  and  its  large  business  interests  have 
never  staggered.  This,  they  say,  isdue  to  the  absolute  reliability  of 
crops,  and  the  fact  that  there  has  always  been  a  market  for  what  the 
farm,  the  mill  and  the  factory  produced. 

To  the   east  of  San   Joaquin   county   lies   that   group  of   mining 


i>AN    JOAQUIN    COUNTY    AND    STOCKTON. 


EtPmAL  ViNHVAnn,  nbaii  Stockton.       Photo,  bj'  HcCnllavb. 

counties  which  first  made  California  famous.  Their  mines  are  won- 
derfully productive,  and  new  discoveries  are  of  common  occurrence. 
The  thousands  of  people  who  are  engaged  in  this  industry  trade  with 
the  farmer,  the  merchant  and  manufacturer  of  San  Joaquin. 


Pboio.  by  TibbeUB. 


SAN    JOAQUIN    COUNTY    AND    STOCKTON. 


Some  Futl-re  Ones. 


The  mines  in  the  mountains,  and  the  verdure  in  the  valley,  have 
met  to  invite  the  building  up  of  a  commercial  center  on  tide  water. 
This  is  the  city  of  Stockton  with  its  30,000  people.  One-fourth  of 
all  the  wheat  grown  In  California  is  here  ground  into  flour.  Nearly 
one  hundred  factories  raise  their  stacks  within  sight  of  the  harbor. 
It  is  this  harbor  that  has  made  Stockton  the  chief  manufacturing 
and  grain-shipping  center  of  the  interior  of  the  State.  Sixteen 
steamers,  twenty-five  barges,  and  a  fleet  of  one  hundred  sailing  ves- 
sels carry  the  products  of  .'  .ctory,  mill  and  farm  to  San  Francisco, 
ten  hours  distant  by  water,  and  two  transcontinental  railroads  get 
their  share  of  business  to  other  points. 


1W>  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

The  city,  situated  as  it  is  at  the  head  of  tide-water,  is  fanned  with 
cool  breezes  from  the  Pacific.  Never  a  night  in  summer  that  the 
population  of  this  industrious  city  does  not  sleep  beneath  blankets ; 
never  a  day  or  night  in  winter  that  the  little  bulb  of  quiclisilver  in 
the  thermometer  gets  below  thirty  degrees. 

Located  on  tides  that  flow  to  the  Orient,  Stockton  is  loading  food- 
stuffs which  find  their  way  on  shipa  which  plow  both  the  Pacific  and 
the  Atlantic.  Thousands  of  carloads  of  mill-stuffs  are  shipped  each 
year  to  points  half  way  distant  round  the  world.  Slowly  and  steadily 
the  city's  trade  has  grown,  and  its  factories  are  multiplying.  In  a 
report  made  by  a  committee  of  transportation  agents  to  the  House 
Committee  on  Kivers  and  Harbors  on  a  recent  visit  of  the  committee 
to  Stockton,  it  was  shown  that  boats  on  the  Ban  Joaquin  River  last 
year  carried  600,000  tons  of  freight  and  75,000  passengers.  The 
splendid  waterway  connecting  Stockton  with  deep  water  has  given  to 
its  people  the  extremely  low  freight  rate  of  65  cents  a  ton  for  a  100- 
mile  haul.  Another  advantage  possessed  by  Stockton  is  that  it  is  a 
freight  terminal  for  two  transcontinental  railways,  an  advantage 
possessed  by  but  two  other  cities  in  California,  namely,  San  Fran- 
cisco and  Los  Angeles.  The  combination  of  tide  water  and  trans- 
continental railroad  terminals  is  shared  by  but  one  other  city  in  the 
State,  and  that  is  San  Francisco. 


Pbolo.  by  TIbbelts. 


Thh  Tesla  Co»l  Hihhs,  Alameda  and  San  Jo*guiN  Counties 


102  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

The  question  of  cheap  fuel  has  been  salved  in  the  discovery  of  im- 
mense quantities  of  oil  in  Kem  county  at  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  San  Joaquin  Valley.  This  oil  is  now  laid  down  in  Stockton  at  a 
price  which  makes  it  cheaper  for  fuel  than  coal  at  $2.00  a  ton.  This 
has  invited  Eastern  capital,  and  plaos  have  been  completed  for  the 
building- of  a  large  oil  refinery  and  a  coke  plant.  The  latter  industry 
came  about  through  the  discovery  that  certain  coal  deposits  contigu- 
ous to  Stockton  made  an  excellent  coke  when  burned  in  conjunction 
with  oil. 

Natural  g-as  has  been  struck  in  Stockton  in  large  quantities,  and 


l.v  THIS  State  Hospitai.  Grol-nds.  Ptaoio,  by  Weave 

is  extensively  used  for  lighting,  beating- and  making  steam.  There 
are  at  present  fourteen  gas  wells  within  the  corporate  limits,  and 
others  are  being  drilled. 

To  enumerate  the  factories  in  Stockton  would  take  much  space,  but 
those  especially  worthy  of  mention  outside  of  her  flour  mills  and  har- 
vester works  are  a  tannery,  woolen  mills,  briquette  factory,  glove 
factory,  iron  works,  a  factory  for  the  manufacture  of  flexible  mantels 
for  gas  burners,  a  macaroni  factory,  wineries  and  ship  yards  ;  most 
of  tliese  are  among  the  largest  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

To  the  southeast  of  .Stockton  immense  deposits  of  manganese,  11^6 
in  the  manufacture  of  Bessemer  steel,  have  been  discovered  and  de- 
veloped by  the  Teala  Coal  Company.  This  manganese  is  58  per  cent 
pure,  a  purity  so  high  that  it  easily  competes  with  the  Eastern  prod- 
uct, and  is  being  shipped  across  the  continent  to  Eastern  steel  works 
in  carload  lots.  Near  this  manganese  are  extensive  deposits  of  lime 
and  clay  for  making   Portland  cement,  and  the  manufacture  of  this 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


cement    U   now    g-oLng    on   and 

£  promiseB  to  add  considerably  to 

I  the  wealth  of  San  Joaquin  county 

o>  and  the  city  of  Stockton. 

S  A    pottery    works    ha«   been 

i  started     within     the     past     few 

^  months,  and  the  clay  from  which 

the  ware  is  being-  made  is  pro- 

1  nounced  to  be  one  of  the  best  for 

~  the  purpose  found  anywhere. 

^  It   takes   more    than    factories 

and  business  activity  to  make  a 

M  city,  however.    Chasing-  the  dol- 

^  lar  is   Init  a   part   of  the  game 

a  of   life.     When    one    is    making 

one's  money,  it  is  well  if  he  can 

^  be  living  in  a  community  whose 

social  life    and    educational    ad- 

^  vantages  are  all  that  they  should 

g  be.    The  people  of  Stockton  have 

Z  much  to  boast  of  in  this  reg^ard. 

ij  ■  They   have  not   been   too  busy 

0 1  to    lose   sight  of    those    things 

^  ^  which  are  essential  to  the  enjoy- 

n  ji  ment   of    life.      They   have   not 

US  neglected   to  beautify  their  city. 

■^  ^  There   are  miles   of   well    paved 

^^  streets  lined  with  beautiful  shade 

S  trees  that  in  midsummer  form  an 

g  almost  perfect  bower  with  their 

^  interlocking  branches.     So  dense 

i  ia  the  shade  that  a  birdseye  view 

I  of  the  city   makes  it  look    more 

>,  like  a  heavy  forest  of  shade  trees 

^  than    the    hustling  manufactur- 

I  ing  and  commercial   city   it  is. 

£  It  is   not    one    or   two    favored 

■„  streets  that  are  thus  shaded,  but 

«  every  residence  street  in  the  city 

S  is   equally    lined    with   splendid 

J  gum,    acacia    and    other    shade 

Peeinng  out  from  the  dense 
foliage,  and  set  like  gems  in 
fields  of  amethyst  are  the  homes 
of  the  people.  It  is  doubtful  if 
there  is  a  city  of  its  size  any- 
where having  a  larger  number  of 
beautiful  homes.      Take  a  car- 


The  Stockton  Fat 


106  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

ria.ge  and  drive  through  ten  miles  of  streets,  and  it  is  doubtful  if 
you  will  be  able  to  tell  when  you  have  finished  which  street  im- 
pressed you  most  fav  orably.  Nearly  every  home 
is  built  OQ  architectu  ral  lines,   prettily   painted 


Wheiie"C);aii"ReedOj(ceTaugrt  Schoomk  Stocktoii.       UcCullaEh.  Ptaoion 

running-  over  the  corner  of  the  bouse,  and  when  these  roses  are  ir 
bloom  the  sight  reminds  one  of  the  statement  of  a  famous  Londor 


SAN   JOAQUIN   COUNTY   AND   STOCKTON.  I07 

auctioneer,  who,  fearing-  he  had  praised  too  highly  the  place  he  was 
aelliDgfi  said  :  "  But,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  this  beautiful  estate  has 
two  dra.wback3,  which  I  feel  1  must  mention— they  are  the  noise  of 
the  nightingale  and  the  litter  of  the  rose  leaves." 

A  citj  which  pays  so  much  attention  to  the  streets  and  homes  must 
necessarily  lack  nothing  in  the  architecture  of  its  public  buildings, 
and  the  equipment  of  its  schools.  Stockton  has  public  buildings 
costing  one  and  a  half  million  dollars.  Its  court-house  is  one  of  the 
flneat  in  the  State  atld  is  situated  in  the  very  business  center  of  the 
city.  Its  public  library  building  is  one  of  the  moat  beautiful  bits  of 
architectnre  of  the  kind  to  be  found  anywhere.  It  has  a  State  hos- 
pital for  the  insane  which  is  the  largest  institution  of  the  kind  in  the 


A  Stockton  School  and  Somb  of  the  Scholahs.         Pboto.  by  M>;C 

State,  and  ia  set  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  grounds.  Its  St.  Joseph's 
Home  is  a  beautiful  hospital  for  the  sick  or  injured.  The  government 
is  DOW  building  a  postoSice  to  cost  $200,000,  and  the  city  recently 
voted  3150,000  in  bonds  to  build  a  high  school. 

Among  the  many  beautiful  buildings  in  Stockton  none  are  more 
impressive  than  her  churches,  nearly  every  denomination  being 
represented. 

The  public  schools  have  the  reputation  of  being  among  the  very 
best  in  the  State.  Nowhere  are  they  surpassed.  The  course  of  study 
prepared  by  the  management  has  been  praised  in  educational  centers 
in  Europe  as  well  aa  in  America ;  the  teachers  are  the  best  that  can 


108  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

be  obtained,  and,  most  important  of  all,  the  f^ood  results  to  the  pnpil 
a.re  so  exceptional  as  to  cause  comment  upon  the  part  of  leading' 
educators. 

The  citj  has  an  electric  car  system  which  coiinecta  all  parts  of  the 
residence  portion  with  the  business  center.  It  has  a  water  supply 
which  flows  from  artesian  wells,  and  the  water  is  clear,  pure  and 
cold.  The  streets  are  lighted  with  electricity,  and  there  is  an  excel- 
lent sewer  system.  The  purity  of  the  water,  the  excellence  of  the 
drainage  system  and  the  cleanliness  of  the  city  have  given  it  the  low 
annual  death  rate  of  nine  per  thousand. 

As  a  means  of  recreation  the  people  have  a  theater  which  is 
modern  in  every  respect,  two  large  picnic  groves,  three  public  parks 
and  hot  mineral  baths.  These  arc  all  accessible  by  the  street  cars, 
and  are  much  used  by  the  people.  The  public  parks,  which  are 
situated  in  the  residence  portion  of  the  city,  eacb  occupy  a  single 
block  of  land  and  are  highly  improved.  The  hot  mineral  baths  are 
one  of  the  natural  wonders  of  the  city.  The  water  comes  from 
artesian  wells  at  84°  Fahrenheit,  and  is  strongly  impregnated  with 
sulphur  and  iron.  It  flows  into  a  great  outdoor  swimming  tank  300 
feet  long  and  40  feet  wide,  built  of  cement,  and  into  smaller  tanks 
which  are  roofed  over  and  enclosed.  These  baths  are,  in  many 
respects,  equal  to  those  in  the  £ast  and  Enrope  which  have  become 
world-re  no  wned . 

As  an  instance  of  the  progressiveness  of  Stockton  reference  should 
be  made  to  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  which  has  an  active  paying 
membership  of  600,  and  is  constantly  handling  big  propositions  for 
the  good  of  the  community.  Through  its  mediumship  the  splendid 
resources  of  Stockton  and  San  Joaquin  county  are  becoming  widely 
known  throughout  the  East.  The  Chamber  is  working  on  the  theory 
that  San  Joaquin  county  contains  land,  climate  and  opportunities  far 
better  than  the  average,  and  that  once  these  can  be  brought  to  the 
attention  of  the  people  of  the  East,  the  county  will  be  rapidly  filled 
with  desirable  settlers. 


MBUST-SEPTEMBER,  1901  Vol.  xv.  Nos.  2-3 

A  "SLEEPY  HOLLOW"        >  Illustrated  '  T^o  j 


SUMMER  RESORTS 


REDONDO  BEACH  ^ 

Nearest  se*S(oe    resort  to  lob  Angeles 


18  Miles  from  Los  Angeles 
on  LOS  ANGELES 
AND  REDONDO  RY. 
or  SANTA  FE 

GOLF,  TENNIS,  BATHING 

BOWLING 

Best  FISHING  on  tht  Coast 

RATES  REASONABLE 


Redondo  Hotel  Company,  Rcdondo  Beach,  CaL 


i.  SPRING  ST.,  LOS 


r 


'ROUND 
ABOUT 
L0N6  BEACH 


nnt  Ocean  Excursions  to 

inal  Island,  San  Pedro 

>r,  CaUllna.  The  Ugtat 

House,  Wblte'4 

Point,  The  Cliffs  and 

Abtrione  Rocks. 

makes  profitable  diver- 


The  Salt  Lake  Route.... 

IS  THE  DIRECT  LINE  lo  this  favorite  Rewirt,  and  (be  only  line  slvlns  paaBenrers  stoi 
over  prlTile»eB  on  Tiekela  lo  Caullna  Island.  Long  Beach  taas  the  flnsBt  ocean  beach  fi 
America,  wJih  Sea  BaitaiBE.  FlsliinE  and  YacbtloE  unencelled.     Orchestra  Concerts  Da[l) 


E.  W.  GIU.HTT,  Gen'lFass.  Agent.  T.  C.  Peck,  Ass'i  Gen' I  Pass.  Agent. 


RECEIVED. 

OCT  4  1901 

FEABODY  MUSEUM 


VOL.  16,  N08.  2-3      LOS   ANGELES         AIBDIT-SEPTEHBEII.ISOI 


The  Trobadour 

He  sang  of  olden  Spain — the  song 

Came  upward  from  the  street  below 
And  bore  in  every  way  a  throng 

Of  Dgolden  dreams  of  long  ago ; 
And  all  the  dead  and  gone  romance 

Of  that  old  land  beyond  the  sea 
Came  back  to  capture  and  entrance 

My  spirit  with  its  witchery. 
He  sang  of  olden  Spain — there  moved 

Before  my  gaze  the  warrior  men 
Of  fair  Castile,  whose  prowess  proved 

The  downfall  of  the  Saracen  ; 
With  swords  of  steel  and  souls  of  fire. 

Their  banners  blowing  in  the  wind, 
Rode  onward  many  a  knight  and  squire 

Across  the  mirror  of  my  mind. 
He  sang  of  olden  Spain — the  land 

With  glorious  gonfalon  unfurled 
The  shadow  of  whose  mailed  hand 

Struck  terror  into  half  the  world  ; 

Aaltaorat  A  BonMd  af  Rimu. 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINb.. 

The  mafific  of  whose  name  was  known 

To  strange,  wild  peoples  over  seas, 
The  echo  of  whose  fame  was  blown 

In  all  men's  ears  by  every  breeze. 
'  He  sang  of  Spain,  of  Spain  the  crowned, 

Of  Spain  the  faithful,  Spain  the  just — 
Long,  long  before  the  lands  she  found 

Had  trailed  her  banner  in  the  dust ; 
While  yet  to  ancient  teachings  true 

She  filled  the  nations'  highest  seat. 
Long,  long  before  her  empire  knew 

The  dust  and  ashes  of  defeat. 
He  sang  of  olden  Spain — I  heard 

A  fountain  musically  fall, 
A  wand'ringiwind  went  by  and  stirred 

A  rose-tree  trained  against  a  wall ; 
A  tinkling  lute  with  voices  blent 

Went  o'er  and  o'er  a  lover's  rime. 
The  while  a  convent  belfry  sent 

Across  the  land  the  vesper  chime. 
He  sang  of  olden  Spain  and  ceased. 

My  dreaming  ended  there  and  then, 
My  spirit  from  its  spell  released 

Came  back  to  consciousness  again. 
The  present  commonplace  and  plain 

Effaced  the  splendor  and  romance 
Evoked  by  that  Castilian  strain 

A  strolling  singer  sang  by  chance. 

bridge,  Mas*. 


113 


®P 


In  Panama. 


BY  THACY  nOmiMSOM. 


mmm 


:u:iLkii.Li;j-iiiL/.'^/' 


HIRTY-FOUR  years  agro  certain  for- 
eig:n  residents  of  Colon  held  a  meeting: 
to  protest  against  the  laxity  of  muni- 
cipal administration.  They  invited  the  gov- 
ernor of  the  State  of  Panama  to  be  present. 
He  was  a  dignified  gentleman  of  the  better 
class,  and  his  gravity  sat  well  upon  his  stout 
person  and  long  beard  streaked  with  gray. 

The  meeting  expressed  itself  rather  freely. 

It  said,  among  other  things,  that  gambling, 

drinking,  and  homicide  often  went  hand  in 

hand  in  that  town,   and  that  the  "joints"  where   those 

arts  were  practised  were  altogether  too  numerous  and  too 

wide  open  for  the  social  and  religious  needs  of  the  place. 

Its  name  had  only  recently  been  changed,  by  order  of  the 
Colombian  government,  from  Aspinwall  (after  W.  H.  As- 
pinwall,  of  New  York)  to  Colon  in  honor  of  Columbus,  and 
was  still  widely  written  Colon-Aspinwall ;  but  the  change 
had  not  perceptibly  increased  the  population,  nor  rectified 
morals,  nor  given  purity  to  the  malarial  atmosphere. 

After  the  expenditure  of  a  considerable  amount  of  wis- 
dom, for  so  small  a  number  of  obscure  non-citizens  of  the 
Colombian  Republic,  there  was  a  lull. 

Governor  Olarte,  who  had  said  never  a  word,  arose  in  his 
general's  uniform,  and  looked  around  with  an  air  of  min- 
gled pity  and  hauteur. 

*'  Gentlemen,"  he  asked,  "  have  you  finished  ?  " 
We  had. 

"  Then  permit  me  to  say  that  for  all  who  do  not  like  this 
country  the  door  of  emigration  is  always  wide  open.  Good 
morning,  gentlemen."    And  he  took  his  leave. 

The  incident  shows  how  far  the  noble  sentiment  of  '*  Col- 
ombia for  Colombians"  was  carried,  and  how  little  was 
done  to  encourage  immigration,  without  which  a  new 
country  can  never  prosper.  We  had  left  our  homes  with 
the  pleasing  idea  that  we  were  going  to  a  free  country, 
with  a  government  fashioned  after  that  of  the  United 
States.  We  found  ourselves  in  a  community  where  free 
speech  was  not  altogether  tolerated,  least  of  all  in  aliens, 
and  where  even  at  the  present  day,  especially  in  time  of 
revolution,  the  censorship  of  the  press  amounts  to  virtual 
strangulation. 

Both  before  and  after  the  final  break  with  the  proud  and 
powerful  tierra  madre  beyond  the  Atlantic,  the  Isthmus 
of  Panama  had  lain  in  a  state  of  almost  complete  obscurity 


IN    PANAMA.  lis 

and  isolation  ;  but  after  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California 
it  became  the  gateway  to  El  Dorado — at  first  a  very  con- 
gested gateway.  Even  before  the  completion  of  the 
Panama  railroad,  in  January,  185S,  the  mighty  thrill  and 
impulse  of  modern  progress  had  been  felt.  Signs  of  im- 
provement continued  to  manifest  themselves  while  the 
great  rush  of  travel  by  the  Isthmian  transit  went  on,  until 
it   amounted   to   nearly   seventy   thousand  passengers    in 


I868^n  which  year  the  earnings  of  the  little  forty-six 
mile  road  were  four  millions  of  gold  dollars.  But  with  the 
opening  of  the  Overland  route,  in  1869,  came  a  great  fall- 
ing-ofE  in  travel  via  Panama,  with  a  consequent  decline  of 
Isthmian  prosperity  and  enterprise.  In  1880,  when  Ferdi- 
nand de  Lessepa  made  his  meteoric  appearance,  there  was 
a  perfect  frenzy  of  excited  hopes,  but  the  temporary  re- 
vival was  followed  by  still  greater  prostration  and  apathy 
on  the  part  of  natives  and  foreigners. 

Yet  life  at  Panama  since  the  clays  of  the  Argonauts  has 
been  far  from  dull  for  the  cosmopolitan  colony  drawn 
thither  by  charms  of  tropical  climate  or  teeming  natural 
wealth.     Jean  Ingelow  says  that 

"  Life  goes  best  with  those  who  take  it  best," 


IN    PANAMA.  11? 

and  forty  years'  residence  on  the  Isthmus  gives  me  leave  to 
say  that  all  classes  of  the  native  population  are  pleasant 
to  live  with,  provided  one  has  consideration  for  others  and 
an  ordinary  endowment  of  politeness  and  tact.  An  Ameri- 
can consul  was  on  one  occasion  much  oSended  because  his 
hat  was  removed  by  a  policeman  in  the  street,  as  a  religi- 
ous procession  was  passing,  and  everyone  else  stood  rever- 
ently uncovered  ;  but  he  failed,  as  he  deserved,  to  make  an 
international  question  of  the  affair. 

The  situation  was  nearly  the  same  at  Bogota,  the  na- 
tional  capital,    when   a   minister-resident  of    the   United 


States  and  his  colleague  of  Germany  sat  during  a  7e  Deum 
in  the  cathedral,  with  their  hats  on.  They  felt  insulted 
when  ordered  to  do  what  no  gentleman  would  have  failed 
to  do.     They  advertised  themselves  as  boors. 

The  Isthmian  climate  has  been  decried  as  deadly ;  and 
80"^  Fahrenheit  through  the  year  may  seem  a  trifle  warm 
to  the  uninitiated  ;  but  all  Californians  who  crossed  the 
Isthmus  in  old  times  will  remember  the  superb  situation  of 
the  present  city  of  Panama,  insuring  coot  sea  breezes  and 
a  sanitation  that  could  easily  be  made  perfect.  I  say  pres- 
ent city,  for  Panama  Viejo,  or  the  old  city,  was  built  a  few 
mites  away,  upon  a  low  malarial  site,  where  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  campQ  santo  soon  outnumbered  those  of  the 


IN    PANAMA.  321 

town  itself.  It  was  the  first  city  founded  by  Europeans  on 
the  American  continent,  and  increased  in  wealth  and 
power  until  it  was  destroyed  by  Morgan  and  his  buc- 
caneers. 

As  there  are  no  swamps  near  the  present  city,  there  is 
no  excuse  for  malaria.  The  hill  Ancon,  seven  hundred 
feet  high,  an  offshoot  from  the  Lesser  Andes  that  form  the 
Isthmus,  extends  a  rocky  foot  well  out  into  the  bay.  Upon 
this,  with  tides  ebbing  and  flowing  on  three  sides,  ready  to 
carry  away  anj'^  refuse  that  is  or  ought  to  be  tossed  over 
the  famous  old  sea-walls,  the  city  stands.  In  ancient  days, 
it  is  said,  the  King  of  Spain  inquired  if  those  costly  walls 
were  built  of  silver.  Some  of  them  are  forty  feet  high  and 
sixty  feet  in  width,  and  until  a  few  years  ago  they  en- 
tirely surrounded  the  city.  On  the  land  side  they  have 
been  removed,  but  on  the  sea-front  they  remain  as  of  old, 
and  the  sentry  towers  at  their  angles,  with  port-holes  and 
picturesque  domes,  are  interesting  relics  of  the  Spanish 
regime.  The  esplanade  fronting  the  sea  is  a  great  resort 
at  sunset  and  on  moonlight  nights. 

The  rainfall  is  sufficient  to  wash  the  streets,  which  are 
paved  with  cobble-stones  after  the  antique  fashion,  and 
graded  to  give  a  rapid  run-down  to  the  water.  After  an 
orthodox  tropical  shower  the  city  looks  like  a  small  boy 
with  his  face  scrubbed  clean  for  school. 

There  is  perhaps  nothing  on  earth  more  wonder-lovely 
than  Panama  Bay,  with  its  evergreen  islands — Taboga, 
Taboguilla,  Uravia,  Flamenco,  Perico,  Naos,  little  Cule- 
bra,  and  numerous  other  islets  rising  beautifully  rounded 
from  the  purple  waves,  enclosed  by  high,  wide  shores 
curved  in  horseshoe  shape,  and  melting  away  into  the 
glamour  of  hazy  distances. 

The  Panama  cathedral,  built  as  late  as  1760,  is  both  im- 
posing and  graceful.  It  bears  the  Saviour  and  twelve 
apostles  in  niches  on  its  facade,  and  it  was  long  supposed 
that  the  figures  were  in  bronze  ;  but  one  night,  in  1882, 
there  was  a  bit  of  earthquake,  when  one  of  them  was 
shaken  down,  and  was  discovered  to  be  of  bronzed  wood. 
When  the  cathedral  towers  were  built,  pearl  shells  from 
the  Pearl  Islands  in  Panama  Bay  were  imbedded  in  the 
mortar  of  their  peaked  summits  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
rays  of  the  rising  and  setting  sun  were  reflected  with 
splendor  ;  but  long  exposure  to  the  elements  has  changed 
their  brilliancy  to  a  dull  white,  without  lustre. 

San  Felipe,  another  interesting  church,  has  1688  carved 
on  a  mural  tablet ;  and  the  ruins  of  Santo  Domingo  are 
still  older.  In  the  latter  is  a  remarkable  arch,  so  nearly 
flat  that  tradition  says  it  fell  twice  when  its  support  was 


iN    PANAMA.  125 

taken  awaJ^  The  bold  architect  then  vowed  to  stand  be- 
neath it  the  next  time,  under  the  protection  of  the  Vir- 
gin ;  and,  sure  enough,  the  arch  is  still  standing  to  show 
how  great  is  the  power  of  faith  ! 

The  educated  class  of  Panama  compares  favorably  with 
the  same  class  elsewhere.  Many  have  been  sent  to  Europe 
and  the  United  States  for  their  education,  and  have  had 
advantages  of  travel  as  well  as  of  training.  The  home 
schools  for  the  less  fortunate  are  excellent.  A  quarter  of 
a  century  ago  Miss  Mary  McCord,  from  Pennsylvania,  es- 
tablished a  girls'  seminary  by  the  great  sea-wall  overlook- 
ing the  '*  Isles  of  Eden  "  of  the  bay.  Here  half  the  young 
Panama  matrons  of  today  received  thorough  instruction, 
and  they  are  often  heard  to  speak  with  reverent  esteem 
and  affection  the  name  of  this  perfect  teacher. 

Among  the  prominent  natives  of  hidalgo  blood  who  have 
devoted  themselves  with  zeal  to  the  schools  and  other  pub- 
lic utilities,  I  may  mention  the  late  Don  Manuel  Hurtado  ; 
also  Doctors  Justo  and  Pablo  Arosemena;  the  brothers 
Sosa,  the  younger  of  whom,  Don  Pedro  J.,  an  engineer  of 
distinguished  ability,  was  recently  lost  with  his  son  at  sea  ; 
the  Herrera,  the  Arias,  the  Fabrega,  the  Diez,  the  Posada, 
the  Diaz,  the  Obarrio  and  the  Arango  families,  all  well 
known  names  in  Hispano-colonial  annals.  The  progeni- 
tor of  the  Arosemenas  was  Don  Mariano,  a  man  of  force 
and  of  high  intellectual  endowments.  He  was  one  of  the 
band  of  patriots  who  in  1821  declared  Panama  independ- 
dent  of  Spain.  His  death,  at  an  advanced  age,  a  few  years 
ago,  was  caused  by  a  singular  accident.  Accustomed  to 
rise  early,  he  opened  a  window,  and  it  is  supposed  he  was 
leaning  out  to  enjoy  the  balmy  beauty  of  the  dawn,  when 
he  lost  his  balance  and  fell  forward  into  the  street,  many 
feet  below.     He  was  discovered  in  a  dying  condition. 

The  phrase  '*  Land  of  Manana  "  so  often  applied  to  tropi- 
cal America  may,  perhaps,  have  a  new  meaning  before  the 
century  is  old  ;  for  it  seems  fairly  certain  that  the  belt  of 
palms  will  have  its  voice  in  the  future  councils  of  man- 
kind. Meanwhile,  one  who  loves  nature  and  beauty  for 
their  own  sake,  and  is  not  in  the  fierce  race  for  wealth,  nor 
cares  to  shine  in  politics  or  society,  may  find  in  the  tropics 
abundant  opportunities  for  leading  the  studious  life,  with 
the  enlightened  ''content  surpassing  wealth  "  that  Shelley 
sang,  and  the  ease  for  which  all  men  long. 

Hollywood,  Cal. 


127 


A  Southwestern  Sleepy  Hollow. 


BY  ANNA  CAROLINE  FISLD 


EARLY  sixty  j^ears  ago,  Richard  H.  Dana, 
sailing  along  the  eastern  shores  of  the 
Pacific,  came  to  what  in  his  inexperience 
he  called  '*  the  only  romantic  spot  on  the 
California  Coast."  Not  far  from  a  wild, 
rocky  point,  which  is  still  called  Dana's 
Landing,  from  the  top  of  a  perpendicular 
cliff  almost  five  hundred  feet  in  height, 
the  adventurous  college  boy,  looking  in- 
land, saw,  gleaming  white  in  the  sun  of 
that  warm  April  afternoon,  '*  the  Mission 
of  San  Juan  Capistrano,  standing  in  a 
small  hollow."  He  makes  no  other  mention  of  the  mission 
and  seems  not  to  have  visited  it.  Following  the  rocky, 
cliflf-formed  coast  a  mile  or  two  south,  one  comes  to  a 
smooth  wide  beach,  and,  a  little  further  on,  a  break  in  the 
high  cliffs  which  rise  abruptly  on  each  side.  Here  the 
valley  is  little  higher  than  the  beach,  and  in  winter  green 
as  emerald. 

The  road  from  this  spot  to  Capistrano  winds  through 
these  meadows  and  over  the  foothills.  It  is  smooth  and 
hard,  and  when  we  passed  over  it,  early  in  February,  the 
soft  round  swells  and  curved  hollows  of  the  hills  were  as 
green  as  the  cold  grass-countries  of  the  North  in  June. 

On  our  way,  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  witness  one  of 
the  peculiar  customs  of  the  Southwest^  the  branding  of 
horses.  The  road  passed  close  to  a  corral  in  which  were 
fifty  or  sixty  of  these  animals.  Outside,  a  swarthy,  red- 
shirted  Mexican  was  heating  the  branding-iron  in  a  bit  of 
brush  fire.  Near  by  on  horseback  sat  the  Don  who  was 
superintending  the  branding.  Inside  the  corral  were  the 
horses  and  colts  and  several  mounted  Mexicans  with  coiled 
reatas.    The  grace,  dexterity  and  rapidity  with  which  they 

Since  this  writer's  visit  to  San  Juan  Capistrano,  some  years  ago, 
the  Landmarks  Club  (an  incorporated  society  for  the  preservation 
of  the  missions  and  other  historic  landmarks  of  Southern  California) 
has  secured  a  long-  lease  on  this  noble  ruin,  and  expended  some  $1500 
in  making  the  most  urgent  repairs.  New  roof  structures  have  been 
substituted  for  the  broken  old  ones  and  covered  with  the  original  red 
tiles ;  some  400  feet  of  the  cloisters  have  been  re-roofed  (with 
asphalt,  as  originally);  the  remnant  of  the  great  stone  temple  has 
been  buttressed  and  protected ;  a  vast  amount  of  debris  .has  been 
removed,  and  many  other  means  have  been  employed  for  the  preser- 
vation of  this  fine  monument.  Many  further  repairs  will  be  made 
as  the  money  is  secured  ;  but  meantime  the  two  most  important 
buildings  have  been  so  protected  that  they  will  last  another  century 
in  about  their  present  condition. — Ed. 


A    SOUTHWESTERN    SLEEPY    HOLLOW. 


Thb  Old  Oli\^  Hill.  Pbolo.  br  Llnsley 

pursued  and  caught  one  of  these  beasts  and  then  lassoed 
the  feet  is  indescribable.  This  done,  the  animal  was 
thrown  down  on  its  side  and  branded  with  the  owner's 
mark. 

We  braved  a  ctoud  of  smoke  and  dust  for  the  novel  sight 
— dust  and  smoke  to  which  both  men  and  beasts  seemed 
strictly  indifferent.  There  was  a  certain  picturesqueness 
in  the  scene,  although  it  was  rather  monotonous  in  color, 
the  general  hue  of  dust  being  but  sparingly  relieved  by  a 
dull  red  shirt,  a  bright  neckcloth  and  the  glittering  eyes 
and  white  teeth  of  the  dark  horsemen. 


63 


-i 

i! 
51 


ii 

iS 
"S 


H 

SI 


A    SOUTHWESTERN    SLEEPY   HOLLOW.  133 

When  the  branding  was  finished  the  horses  were  allowed 
to  pass  out  of  the  corral.  Trotting  rapidly  across  the 
green  meadows  they  disappeared  between  the  foothills. 

Later  in  the  day,  from  a  window  of  the  little  hotel  in 
Capistrano,  I  saw  the  horsemen  again.  One  after  another 
they  straggled  into  sight  on  the  sunny,  deserted  street  and 
disappeared  within  the  billiard  saloon  opposite.  The  most 
conspicuous  one  was  tall  and  slender.  His  face,  dusty 
garb,  haughty  carriage  and  imperious  gestures  suggested 
a  curious  mixture  of  beggar  on  horseback  and  prince  in 
disguise.  One  is  sometimes  curious  to  know  how  persons 
live  who  appear  to  be  eternally  in  the  saddle  and  have  no 
visible  means  of  support.  I  was  told  that  they  work  for  a 
month  for  twenty-five  dollars  and  then  rest  and  enjoy 
themselves  while  it  lasts;  and  twenty-five  dollars  will  go  a 
long  way  for  frijoles,  garlic,  chiles  and  melons. 

Before  reaching  Capistrano,  from  the  top  of  a  high  hill, 
it  looked  like  a  Sleepy  Hollow  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  The 
sharp  outlines  of  the  snow-white  columns,  dust-colored 
tower,  and  rust-red  tiles  of  the  old  mission  church  were 
softened  a  little  by  the  haze  of  that  delicious  summer-like 
day.  It  stands  slightly  raised  above  the  '*  hollow"  of 
which  Dana  speaks,  and  the  little  Mexican  hamlet  of  tile- 
roofed  adobes  surrounds  the  dusty  plaza  at  its  base.  It 
seems  impossible  that  a  place  so  foreign  and  remote  and 
sleepy  can  be  within  the  limits  of  a  land  so  practical  and 
prosaic  as  the  United  States.  It  is  encircled  by  hills  and 
mountains  which  rise,  tier  beyond  tier,  around  it — tender 
spring  verdure  at  first,  further  away  deepening  to  sapphire, 
in  the  light,  with  delicately  penciled  shadows,  and  soften- 
ing to  dreamiest  azure  and  silver  where  the  far,  snowy 
peaks  of  San  Antonio,  San  Bernardino  and  Cucamonga 
shine  in  the  sun.  It  is  a  picture  touched  with  the  pathos 
and  romance  of  the  past,  the  witchery  of  mountain  dis- 
tance, and  the  charm  of  a  pastoral  foreground  gilded  by 
the  magical  sun  of  the  South.  Across  the  road  from  the 
Mission  is  a  neat  little  modern  school-house,  and  on  the 
other  side  of  it  runs  the  track  of  the  Santa  Fe  railroad. 
Far  from  detracting  from  the  interest  of  the  historical 
spot,  they  add  to  it  by  suggestion  and  contrast ;  they  are 
types  of  the  rushing,  practical  present,  as  that  is  of  the 
stately,  meditative  past. 

The  Mission  of  San  Juan  Capistrano  was  established 
November  1,  1776,  in  the  reign  of  Carlos  Third,  King  of 
Spain,  in  memory  of  a  good  and  holy  Italian.  Padre  Fray 
Junipero  Serra,  a  Franciscan  friar.  Missionary  President 
of  Upper  California,  the  first  great  citizen  of  this  great 
State,  was  its  founder.     Padre  Gorgonio,  the  first  friar  in 


A    SOUTHWESTERN    SLEEPY    HOLLOW.  135 

charge,  made  tlie  original  plan  of  the  church,  which  was 
in  the  form  of  the  Roman  cross.  Half  a  mile  southeast  of 
the  Mission  in  a  green,  fertile  hollow  is  what  is  left  of  the 
old  Mission  orchards.  This  also  was  planted  in  the  form 
of  the  cross.  It  originally  contained  a  great  variety  of 
temperate  and  tropical  fruits.  With  the  exception  of  a  few 
enormous  pear  trees,  nothing  remains  but  the  olives.  They 
are  tall,  wide-spreading  and  gnarled,  and  still  bear  godd 
crops  of  berries. 

The  huge  stone  church  was  dedicated  on  the  eighth  of 
September,  1806,  nearly  thirty  years  from  the  time  of  its 
commencement.  December  8,  1812,  during  the  celebra- 
tion of  the  Feast  of  La  Purisima,  it  was  partially  demol- 
ished by  an  earthquake,  and  thirty -six  persons  were  buried 
beneath  the  ruins. 

Enough  of  the  dome  remains  to  show  the  beautiful 
Roman  arches  and  to  give  a  hint  of  its  original  height  and 
size.*  To  the  left  of  it  is  the  campanile,  a  row  of  four 
open  arches,  where  hang  the  Spanish  bells,  encircled  with 
inscriptions  and  green  with  verdigris.  The  pretty,  young, 
soft-voiced  wife  of  the  Mexican  guide,  who  lived  some- 
where in  the  rambling  old  ruins,  showed  us  the  interior, 
which  makes  a  charming  picture. 

A  tall  shrub  with  drooping  yellow  flower  (the  **Buena 
Moza")  grows  in  the  angle  of  the  high  dark  wall,  and  a 
bit  of  wild  vine  trails  across  the  top  of  the  arches.  Be- 
yond them  is  a  glimpse  of  verdant  foothills  and  a  sky  as 
blue  and  deep  as  ever  arched  over  the  sunny  land  whence 
the  old  bells  were  brought.  Beyond  the  campanile,  and 
approached  through  a  lofty  Roman  arched  cloister,  are  the 
long,  narrow,  red-tiled  buildings  enclosing  one  side  of  the 
great  quadrangle.  They  contained  the  Mission  granaries, 
workshops  and  residences.  Around  the  north,  south  and 
east  sides  of  the  quadrangle,  or  courtyard,  runs  the  cloister, 
supported  by  thirty-eight  tall  white  pillars.  Originally 
there  must  have  been  fifty.  They  support  Roman  arches, 
and  are  of  tile-brick,  covered  with  stucco.  The  space  from 
pillar  to  pillar  is  ten  feet,  which  gives  one  an  idea  of  the 
great  extent  of  the  place. 

The  original  church,  founded  by  Father  Junipero,  is 
entered  from  the  quadrangle.  Several  years  ago  the  roof 
fell  in.t  Up  to  that  time  the  services  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church  were  still  held  there.  The  priest's  apart- 
ment, near  the  chapel,  with  its  comfortless  tile-brick  floor 
and   plain   appointments,    and   its    closet  containing    the 

*  It  could  not  be  duplicated  today  under  $100,000.— Ed. 

t  This  buildinar  has  since  been  re-roofed,  with  the  oriarinal  tiles,  by  the  Landmarks 
Club. 


138  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

sacred  vessels  of  the  church,  brings  to  mind  the  bedroom 
of  the  good  Bishop  in  Les  Miserables,  We  were  permitted 
to  turn  over  the  leaves  of  the  church  records.  The  entries 
are  in  Spanish.  Only  the  older  ones  interested  us.  Some 
are  in  a  coarse  and  heavy  hand,  but  much  of  the  writing* 
is  delicate  and  beautiful,  and  faded  to  a  pale  brown. 

The  quadrangle  was  used  for  games  and  other  recrea- 
tions, among  which  the  great  national  amusement  of  the 
bull-fight  ranked  first.  Its  surface,  worn  so  bare  in  those 
old  days,  is  green  now  with  breast-high  weeds ;  the 
columns  were  battered,  and  the  place  was  silent  with  the 
pathetic  quiet  of  desolation. 

The  buildings  were  in  so  many  stages  of  dilapidation 
that  it  was  easy  to  trace  out  the  manner  of  construction  ; 
and  one  cannot  fail  to  mark  the  wide  purpose,  patience, 
fertility  of  resource,  and  perseverance  against  manifold 
difficulties  that  the  work  expresses.  In  places  stone  was 
used,  in  others  burnt  brick,  in  others  sun-dried  adobe. 
Overhead,  through  the  broken  roof  with  the  bit  of  bright 
blue  sky  beyond,  were  seen  the  carisos  or  cane,  used  in 
place  of  laths.  The  great  gate  at  the  entrance  of  the 
quadrangle  swung  on  clumsy  wooden  pins  fitted  into  large 
wooden  sockets. 

In  their  mute  eloquence  these  old  walls  inevitably  remind 
us  of  the  profound  faith  and  piety  of  those  Franciscan 
padres,  and  of  other  sterner  qualities  handed  down  to  them, 
possibly,  from  that  old  historic  time  when  to  be  a  Spaniard 
was  to  be  energetic,  resolute  and  fearless.  Perhaps  it  is 
not  mere  fancy  that  something  more  than  common  sun- 
light seems  reflected  from  the  crumbling  walls,  a  gleam  of 
the  ancient  glory  of  Old  Spain  in  its  most  brilliant  days. 

Oranire,  Cal. 


Mr.  Browne  —  who  is  the  eldest  son 
of  Francis  Fisher  Browne,  that  rare  American  who  has 
made  The  Dial  a  name  to 
conjure  with — was  born 
in  Chicago,  July  2,  1868. 
was  instructed  in  the 
Chicago  schools,  and  edu- 
cated in  The  Dial.  He 
began  at  12  to  assist  his 
father  in  literary  work, 
and  later  worked  on  the 
paper.  In  1888  he  took 
the  "business  end"  of 
The  Dial,  and  in  1892, 
when  the  paper  was  in- 
corporated independent  of 
McCIurg  &  Co.,  and  was 
made  a  semi-monthly,  he 
t>ecame  full  business  man- 
ager. In  this  very  un- 
common     school     of     high  Frahcis  FishekBhownb. 


A    B&B&SUCHICi  Ubi 


THE    WATERFALL    OF    BASASiACHiC. 


141 


standards  in  business  and  literature,  Mr.  Browne  has  been 
an  uncommon  pupil,  as  those  know  who  keep  track  of  what 
Mr.  Whittier  called  '*the  best  purely  literary  journal  in 
America."  He  has  mastered,  by  practical  touch,  the 
literary,  mechanical  and  business  sides  of  publishing,  and 
has  acquired,  for  a  man  of  33,  a  wide  acquaintance  with 
publishers  and  authors.  In  assuming  full  management  of 
the  publishing  department  of  this  great  house,  Mr.  Browne 
is  formulating  a  broad  and  progressive  policy  from  which 
it  is  not  unreasonable  to  expect  large  results.  He  looks 
especially  to  make  A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.  an  outlet  for 
Western  books  and  a  rallying-point  for  Western  literature. 


The  Waterfall  of  Basasiachic. 


BY  SALOME  CMCIL. 


EXICO  has  several  waterfalls  that  are  familiar 
to  tourists,  notably  those  of  Juanacatlan  and 
Orizaba.  They  are  Meccas  for  travelers,  who 
marvel  at  their  beauty,  and  little  dream  that 
in  the  vast  solitude  of  the  Sierra  Madre  are 
falls  of  greater  height  that  are  unknown  save 
to  the  Indians  and  a  few  adventurous  prospectors  and 
hunters.  Many  of  these  falls  exist  only  during  the  rainy 
season,  at  which  time  mountain  travel  is  generally  tabooed. 
The  highest  waterfall  in  the  world,  geography  tells  us, 
is  the  Cerosola  Cascade,  in  the  Alps,  having  a  fall  of  2,400 
feet ;  that  of  Arvey,  in  Savoy,  is  1,100  feet,  and  the  falls  of 
Yosemite  Valley  range  from  700  to  1,000  feet.  But  higher 
yet,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  waterfall  in  the  San  Cuayatan 
Canon,  in  the  State  of  Durango,  Mexico.  It  was  dis- 
covered by  some  prospectors,  ten  years  ago,  in  the  great 
barranca  district  which  is  called  the  Tierras  Desconocidas. 
While  searching  for  the  famous  lost  mine,  Naranjal,  a 
great  roar  of  water  was  heard.  With  great  difficulty  the 
party  pushed  on,  and  up  and  down  the  mighty  chasms  until 
they  beheld  the  superb  fall  that  is  at  least  3,000  feet  high. 
It  was  at  the  close  of  the  rainy  season,  in  September,  and 
the  San  Cuayatan  arroyo  was  a  raging  torrent,  the  volume 
of  water  that  flowed  over  the  granite  bluS  was  enormous, 
the  roar  deafening.  Noticing  some  traces  of  a  former 
trail,  merely  steps  cut  in  the  wall  of  the  canon,  the  pros- 
pectors returned  a  month  later,  and  with  ropes  and  pulley 
one  of  the  party  was  lowered  into  the  seemingly  inacces- 
sible depths.  He  found  traces  of  an  old  arrastra  and  a 
tunnel  several  hundred  feet  below  the  fall.  The  works  had 
been  abandoned  for  perhaps  a  hundred  years,  but  access  to 


142  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE, 

the  tunnel  was  still  possible,  owing  to  the  hard  granite 
walls  that  had  withstood  the  elements.  A  small  streak  of 
almost  pure  native  silver  was  found  on  one  of  the  walls  of 
a  vein  that  was  wide  and  rich  in  silver.  Some  of  the  silver 
that  was  detached  with  a  machete  was  so  soft  that  it  could 
be  rolled  up  like  a  copper  plate.  In  places  it  was  ten 
inches  wide  and  thick  as  a  man's  hand.  Subsequent  inves- 
tigation proved  that  the  vein  could  be  worked  only  three 
months  during  the  year,  the  summer  and  winter  rains  flood- 
ing the  tunnel  with  water.  The  difficulties  were  too  great 
to  be  overcome,  and  the  old  mine  was  not  worked. 

Tradition  locates  the  famous  lost  mine,  Naranjal,  in  the 
San  Cuayatan  Canon.  Ancient  documents  believed  to  be 
of  undoubted  authenticity  state  that  this  mine  was  worked 
by  Spaniards  in  1712;  that  it  was  situated  in  a  remote 
canon,  surrounded  by  orange  groves,  and  that  the  approach 
from  Durango  was  from  the  west,  through  the  barranca 
district,  of  which  even  the  Indians  are  ignorant  today. 
During  the  winter  rains  vast  quantities  of  ripe  oranges 
are  borne  down  by  the  San  Cuayatan  arroyo,  thus  lending 
credence  to  the  tradition  that  the  lost  mine  is  to  the  north 
of  the  fall.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  the  fall  is  unapproach- 
able except  from  one  direction,  no  photograph  of  it  has 
ever  been  secured.  In  viewing  the  fall,  I  could  only  stand 
within  two  feet  of  where  it  leaps  through  the  trench  cut 
in  the  granite  bed  and  look  down  upon  the  waters  that 
break  into  spray  long  before  reaching  the  canon  below.  A 
rope  let  down  one  of  the  walls,  sixty  feet  from  the  fall,  to 
which  point  an  Indian  crept  at  the  risk  of  his  life,  was 
3,100  feet  long  The  Indian  said  he  saw  it  touch  the 
water,  and  in  proof  showed  us  that  the  rope  to  which  a 
stone  was  tied  was  wet ;  therefore  we  could  authoritatively 
state  that  the  fall  is  over  3,000  high.  To  obtain  a  full 
view  of  the  fall  and  take  a  photograph  would  require  either 
a  balloon  or  a  cable  across  the  great  chasm,  and  a  Blondin 
to  reach  the  center  and  *'  push  the  button." 

On  Rio  Candemania,  in  Western  Chihuahua,  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  waterfalls  in  the  world,  called  by  the 
natives  La  Cascada  de  Basasiachic.  The  sheer  descent  of 
the  water  is  1,002  feet  from  the  point  where  the  river  flows 
through  a  granite  trough  on  the  mesa  to  the  canon  below. 
It  is  a  weary  three  hours'  ride  from  the  main  trail  to  Pinos 
Altos  to  Basasiachic,  over  tortuous  trails  ;  but  all  the  dis- 
comforts and  dangers  one  has  passed  are  forgotten  at  the 
first  glimpse  of  the  glorious  fall.  The  waters  tumble  pell- 
mell  down  the  great  barranca,  a  seething  mass  of  spray 
long  before  they  reach  the  rocky  bed,  where  they  unite  and 
flow  westward  to  join  Rio  de  Cedros,  and  form  Rio  Mayo. 


JOSEPH   LE   CONTE.  1« 

The  Spray  is  white  as  driven  snow,  and  when  the  early 
morning^  sun  strikes  the  myriads  of  g^listening;  drops  a  bril- 
liant rainbow  arches  the  chasm,  slowly  fading  away  as  if 
loath  to  destroy  so  splendid  a  picture  of  color  and  light. 
The  view  of  the  fall  during  the  rainy  season  is  far  more 
beautiful  than  after  the  river  has  been  reduced  to  its  normal 
proportions,  at  which  time  only  is  it  possible  to  take  a 
satisfactory  photograph.  After  a  heavy  rain  the  volume 
of  water  dashing:  down  the  chasm  is  enormously  increased, 
the  spray  is  thrown  in  every  direction  and  the  approach  is 
extremely  dangerous.  With  great  difficulty  one  may  de- 
scend the  canon  and  gain  a  view  of  the  fall  a  thousand  feet 
below  the  point  where  it  reaches  the  river  bed,  but  a  guide 
and  plenty  of  ropes  are  necessary.  Our  guides  were  some 
Tarahumar  Indians,  who  were  going  to  the  mining  camps 
to  sell  apples. 

The  practical-minded  miners  of  this  section  of  Chihuahua 
contemplate  utilizing  the  great  water-power  afforded  by 
the  Cascada  de  Basasiachic  to  run  their'  reduction  works, 
many  miles  distant.  It  is  estimated  that  sufficient  electric 
power  could  be  made  available  to  light  all  the  towns  and 
run  all  the  reduction  works  within  a  radius  of  a  hundred 
miles.  When  man  utilizes  the  forces  of  nature  for  business 
purposes  he  usually  destroys  all  their  beauty  and  romantic 
interest.  But  the  glories  of  Basasiachic  can  never  be  da- 
stroyed  by  man,  for  it  is  not  practicable  to  divert  its  waters 
for  irrigation  purposes,  there  being  literally  not  a  flat  spot 
a  yard  square  in  that  section  ;  and  to  utilize  the  power  for 
electrical  purposes  would  not  in  the  least  interfere  with  its 
grandeur  and  suberb  beauty. 

CItr  of  H«xlco.  

(Joseph  Le  Conte. 

IDl«d  JnlT  i.  1901,  In  a  tent  Id  To  Semite  ValleT.) 

<R  and  Master  gone ;  the  unmeasured  height 
at  w«Ua  the  grandeur  of  Yo  Bemitc 
am  fiower-banked  Merced  to  zenith  stars, 
lifted  not 

far  against  the  limit  line  that  bars 
e  aight  of  man  from  heaven's  mystery, 
near  the  wide  empyrean  of  light, 
noble  Thought 

alted  him — the  life's  immortal  part — 
Unto  the  Spirit  Infinite  ; 
Yet  held  him  by  a  loving  human  heart 
Close  to  the  human  world  to  bless  his  kind 
With  savant  lore  and  philosophic  wit, 
Fmit  of  a  fearless  and  unfettered  mind. 


1^  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

The  lone  Sequoia*  chanted  symphonies 

Of  ages  past ; 

The  birds  sang  clear,  the  breezes  waft  his  name, 

The  steeps  hung-  out  their  broidered  tapestries, 

And  on  the  last 

f^air  moming*  when  the  unexpected  guest 

Took  glorious  guerdon  for  his  silent  quest. 

The  warming  sun  gave  to  the  Vale  of  Peace 

A  softer  glow ; 

The  summit  rills  leaped  down  in  glad  release 

To  the  green  world  below, 

And  sentient  nature  seemed  to  feel  and  know  I 

He  saw  and  loved  it  all  but  yesterdaj. 

And  now  with  morning  marching  on  to  noon 

When  men  were  waiting  him  the  tryst  to  keep 

To  guide  the  cautious  step  th'  infrequent  way, 

He  pledged  himself — "  I  shall  be  better  soon'' — 

And  fell  asleep 

So  quietly,  the  watcher,  keen  with  doubt 

And  pale  with  dread. 

Knew  not  when  One  came  in  and  two  went  out  .  .  . 

And  he  was  dead  ! 

High  honor  had  he  ;  God's  own  labor  laid 
The  walls  of  his  death  chamber,  and  o'erhead 
Set  the  blue  arch  with  blended  light  and  shade, 
Spread  the  soft  carpet  for  his  tired  feet 
And  filled  the  fragrant  air 
With  healing  for  the  senses,  heavenly  sweet. 

The  solemn  beauty  of  Yo  Semite 
Shall  be  more  fair. 

More  sacred  to  the  awe-held  traveler's  tread. 
For  this  f  oud  memory ; 
And  by  him  living,  by  him  grandly  dead. 
The  questing  soul  his  steady  light  shall  see 
And  so  be  Godward  led  ! 
San  Francisco.  

Mark  Twain  and  the  First  Nevada 

Legislature. 

BY  MAHK  LKM  LUTftKR, 

VT  is  a  singular  and  withal  a  picturesque  thing  that  the 
I  story  of  a  silver  lode  should  embody  the  history  of  a 
commonwealth.  Battle-born,  as  its  orators  were  fond 
of  styling  it,  Nevada's  rise  was  meteoric.  From  a  quiet 
isolated  province  of  the  Mormon  theocracy  it  sprang,  with 
the  discovery  of  its  marvelous  silver  deposits,  as  by  magic 
growth  to  a  life  pulsing  with  intense  energy,  and  passed 
rapidly  from  anarchy  to  territorial  order  and  from  territor- 
ialism  to  statehood,  pouring  out  its  wealth  for  the  defense 
of  the  imperilled  Union  with  all  the  ardor  of  the  eldest  in 
the  sisterhood  of  States.  Such  were  the  stirring  begin- 
nings of  the  Nevada  which  now,  by  the  irony  of  time,  has 
come  to  be  characterized  as  one  of  the  rotten  boroughs  of 
American  politics. 


MARK    TWAIN    AND   NEVADA'S    LEGISLATURE,      1^5 

It  was  the  fortune  of  my  father,  Ira  M.  Luther,  to  play 
some  part  in  the  founding  of  this  in  many  ways  unique 
community.  A  'Forty-Niner  and  one  of  the  emigrating 
Californians  who  wrested  from  Utah  the  valleys  of  Carson 
County,  as  Nevada  was  then  called,  he  was  chosen  to  repre- 
sent the  oldest  of  its  settlements  in  the  upper  body  of  its 
first  legislature,  and  as  the  chairman  of  the  standing  com- 
mittee, in  some  degree  influenced  the  legislation  which 
made  vital  the  dry  bones  of  the  governmental  "Organic 
Act."  To  this  first  legislature  it  has  haply  been  given  to 
figure  in  literature,  and  that  not  enviably  ;  for,  as  the 
stalking-horse  of  the  humor  of  the  distinguished  author  of 
Roughing  It^  its  name  has  become  a  thing  to  broaden  the 
mouth  of  his  readers  in  derisive  smiles.  That  Mr. 
Clemens's  whimsical  portrait  is  unjust,  a  careful  examina- 
tion of  miscellaneous  data  relating  to  early  Nevada  pre- 
served by  my  father,  has  convinced  me. 

Of  the  bizarre  pre-territorial  epoch,  the  earliest  printed 
newspaper  of  Nevada  probably  mirrors  a  faithful  present- 
ment ;  and  as  I  write,  a  mildewed,  tattered  copy  of  the 
Territorial  Enterprise  lies  before  me.  At  this  tentative 
stage  of  its  existence  the  Enterprise  was  but  a  twenty- 
column  weekly,  yet  its  schedule  of  terms  ranged  from  five 
dollars  a  year  to  twenty-five  cents  a  single  copy,  either 
** invariably  in  advance."  What  the  subscriber  obtained 
for  this  sum,  which  would  suffice  for  a  high-grade  modern 
magazine,  was  briefly  this :  Page  one,  by  way  of  recent 
intelligence,  prints  a  generous  extract  from  the  *' Ulster 
County  Gazette"  of  December,  1799,  entitled  ''Washington 
Entombed,"  which  is  preceded  by  an  ode  upon  that  lament- 
able occurrence  taken  from  the  same  fresh  and  timely 
source.  Two  and  a  half  columns  devoted  to  a  borrowed 
and  unaccredited  account  of  running  the  gauntlet  in 
Bohemia,  and  a  handful  of  ''  exchange"  anecdotes  and 
jests  pad  the  remaining  space.  Page  two  sets  forth  the 
editorial  opinions,  the  correspondence,  and  the  so-called 
** telegraphic  news;"  while  the  balance  of  the  paper  is 
given  over  to  advertisements.  The  editorials  are  of  purely 
local  interest,  and  the  heavily-leaded  ''telegraphic" 
column  contains  absolutely  no  Eastern  news,  save  the 
merest  scrap  by  way  of  California  relating  to  the  Franco- 
Austrian  war  ;  the  bulk  concerns  the  mining  operations  of 
East  Fork  Diggings,  Honey  Lake  Valley,  Susan  River, 
Gold  Canon,  and  the  like.  The  social  and  personal  notices, 
however,  offer  better  value  for  the  purchase  price.  One 
example,  taking  its  inspiration  from  a  gift  to  the  editor, 
adequately  sounds  the  prevailing  note. 


146  LAND   OF   SUNSHtNE. 

**  SPIKITUAI>-An  old  friend  of  ours,  H.  Jacobs,  of  the  firm  of 
Solomon  Weill  &  Co.,  Mottsyille,  has  presented  us  with  a  compli- 
mentary flask  of  old  Sazerac.    Jaike,  you're  a  trump." 

It  is  in  the  advertisements  perhaps,  that  pre-territorial 
Nevada  is  best  reflected.  Liquors,  playing^-cards,  powder, 
shot  and  i^ns  are  conspicuous  anions:  them,  and  the  jewel- 
ers one  and  all  would  seem  to  have  been  gfunsmiths  too. 
The  infinite  variety  of  a  storekeeper's  stock  in  trade  is 
amusingly  shown  in  the  doggerel  advertisement  of  the  firm 
of  the  donor  of  **old  Sazerac."    The  advertiser 


ti 


Returns  his  thanks  for  favors  shown  by  those  who  come  to  trade, 
He's  got,  he  thinks,  the  cheapest  store  where  the  best  of  bargains 

made; 
There's  hats  and'  caps,  and  pantaloons  and  shirts,  with  boots  and 

shoes, 
And  laces,  silks  and  calicoes— come  ladies  all  and  choose. 
His  tea  and  co£Pee,  sugar,  rice,  his  pepper,  salt  and  plates. 
His  shot  and  powder,  caps  and  lead,  he  sells  at  lowest  rates  ; 
His  brandy,  whiskey,  gin  and  wine,  are  very  hard  to  beat, 
He'll  sell  it  by  the  gallon  cheap,  or  by  the  single  treat. 
In  short,  he  always  keeps  the  best  of  everything  to  sell. 
And  calls  upon  all  citizens,  who  in  the  valley  dwell. 
To  come  and  look  upon  his  goods  ;  he'll  sell  them  very  low; 
Come  one,  come  all,  and  see  the  goods  of  Solomon  Weill  &  Co." 

But  "  the  valley"  thought  not  solely  of  the  body ;  and 
that  its  mental  hunger  might  not  go  unappeased  a  book- 
seller, in  exploiting  a  well  known  sensational  periodical  of 
the  East,  counsels  that  "everybody  should  read"  the 
*' beautiful"  stories  entitled  "Bion  the  Wanderer,  or.  The 
Faithless  Guardian,"  "The  Pioneer  Patriot,  or.  The  Maid 
of  the  War  Path,"  "The  Bride  of  an  Evening,"  "  Blanche 
Bertrand,  or,  the  Perils  of  the  Border,"  "Glendower,  or 
The  North  Sea  Rover,"  "The  Lost  Treasure,  or  The 
Champion  of  Castile,"  and  "Alaric,  or  The  Tyrant's 
Vault. ' 

Such  was  the  Enterprise  ;  and  presumably  of  some  such 
fashion  was  Nevada  when  that  newspaper's  future  city 
editor  and  Nevada's  satirist,  Samuel  Langhorne  Clemens, 
made  his  advent  in  the  wake  of  the  territorial  government. 
With  what  he  saw  there  every  reader  of  Roughing  It  is 
familiar,  and  "the  world  and  his  wife"  still  shake  their 
sides  over  the  telling  of  it — and  with  reason.  That  this 
book  is  something  more  than  a  humorous  narrative,  how- 
ever, its  author  specifically  claims,  and  it  is  with  the  work 
in  its  character  of  pseudo-history  that  the  present  writer 
would  make  bold  to  differ,  touching  certain  of  its  state- 
ments. With  the  ousting  of  the  Mormons,  the  pre-Twain 
and  pre-territorial  Nevada  had  been  left  without  courts  of 
law ;  lynching  was  not  of  infrequent  occurrence  and  a  rude 
makeshift  for  justice  was  administered  by  the  miners'  code 
which  meted  out  punishments  varying  from  hanging  for 


MARK    TWAIN    AND   NEVADA'S   LEGISLATURE.     1^7 

murder  to  ear-cropping*  for  cattle-stealin^:.  In  a  word, 
society  was  chaotic,  and  the  problem  confronting  President 
Lincoln's  newly  appointed  g-overnor,  James  W.  Nye,  and 
the  leg'islators-elect  of  a  country  which  was  devoid  of  legis- 
lation, was  serious  to  a  degree.  As  Mr.  Clemens  saw  it, 
history  ran  in  this  guise  : 

'*  There  is  something'  solemnly  funny,'*  he  says  in  Roughing  li^ 
"  about  the  strugfg'les  of  a  new-bom  Territorial  government  to  get  a 
start  in  this  world.  Ours  had  a  trying-  time  of  it.  The  Organic  Act 
and  the  '  instructions'  from  the  State  Department  commanded  that 
a  legislature  be  elected  at  such-and-such  a  date.  It  was  easy  to  get 
legislators,  even  at  three  dollars  a  day,  although  board  was  four 
dollars  and  fifty  cents,  for  distinction  had  its  charm  in  Nevada  as 
well  as  elsewhere,  and  there  were  plenty  of  patriotic  souls  out  of  em- 
ployment ;  but  to  get  a  legislative  hsdl  for  them  to  meet  in  was 
another  matter  altog^ether.  Carson  blandly  declined  to  give  room 
rent-free  or  let  one  to  the  government  on  credit.  But  when  Curry 
heard  of  the  difficulty,  he  came  forward,  solitary  and  alone,  and 
shouldered  the  Ship  of  State  over  the  bar  and  got  her  afloat  again. 
I  refer  to  *  Curry— OLD  Curry— Old  ABE  Curry.'  But  for  him  the 
legislature  would  have  been  obliged  to  sit  in  the  desert.  He  offered 
his  large  stone  building  just  outside  the  capitol  limits,  rent-free,  and 
it  was  gladly  accepted.  Then  he  built  a  horse-railroad  from  town  to 
the  capitol  and  carried  the  legislators  gratis.  He  also  furnished  pine 
benches  and  chairs  for  the  legisla  ture,  and  covered  the  floor  with 
clean  sawdust  by  way  of  carpet  and  spittoon  combined.  A  canvas 
partition  to  separate  the  Senate  from  the  House  of  Representatives 
was  put  up  by  the  Secretary.  .  .  .  That  was  a  fine  coUection  of 
sovereigns,  that  first  Nevada  legislature.  They  levied  taxes  to  the 
amount  of  thirty  or  forty  thousand  dollars  and  ordered  expenditures 
to  the  extent  of  about  a  million.  Yet  they  had  their  little  periodical 
explosions  of  economy  like  all  other  bodies  of  the  kind.  A  member 
proposed  to  save  three  dollars  a  day  to  the  nation  by  dispensing  with 
the  chaplain.  And  yet  that  short-sighted  man  needed  the  chaplain 
more  than  any  other  member,  perhaps,  for  he  generally  sat  with  his 
feet  on  his  desk,  eating  raw  turnips,  during  the  morning  prayer." 

Did  not  Mr.  Clemens  have  his  moments  of  seriousness, 
and  had  I  not  been  assured  by  him  that  this  amusing  de- 
scription of  the  first  Nevada  legislature  is  *'  absolutely  cor- 
rect," it  would  obviously  approach  the  fatuous  to  take  up 
the  cudgels  of  adverse  criticism,  point  out  errors  of  fact, 
and  endeavor  to  justify  men  who  need  no  justification  save 
their  works.  One  cannot  but  conclude  that  the  lapse  of 
years  has  dulled  Mr.  Clemens's  recollection  of  the  Nevada 
of  this  then  undistin^fuished  youth.  Other  actors  in  the 
scenes  he  has  depicted  have  other  memories,  not  tinged 
with  the  glow  of  humor,  perhaps,  but  possibly  quite  as 
faithful  to  what  Nevada  really  was.  United  States  Sena- 
tor Wm.  M.  Stewart,  for  example,  while  readily  granting 
that  the  author  of  Roughing  It  did  not  lack  *  a  basis  of 
facts  upon  which  to  build  his  exaggerated  stories,"  charac- 
terizes the  account  as  a  **  burlesque"  which  "must  be 
taken  with  a  great  deal  of  allowance."    Himself  a  mem- 


1^  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

hex  of  the  first  le^rislature,  Senator  Stewart  became  the 
dominant  influence  of  Nevada  politics,  the  chief  shaper  of 
the  young  Commonwealth's  destinies,  and  its  first  chosen 
Federal  Senator.  His  statement,  therefore,  is  not  without 
weight.    I  cite  his  own  matter-of-fact  description  to  me  : 

"  The  legislature  met  in  Curry's  hall  where  the  State  prison  now 
is.  The  Council  was  situated  in  one  end  of  the  long  building-  and  the 
Assembly  in  the  other.  A  large  staircase  went  up  the  center, 
which  divided  the  hall  into  two  parts.  The  building  was  decidedly 
substantial  in  every  respect." 

In  this  connection  it  is  pertinent  to  note  that  the  House 
Journals  show  that  the  members'  chairs  were  furnished 
them  by  two  public-spirited  women  of  Carson  City  ;  a 
trifling  detail,  but  not  without  interest  in  an  analysis  of 
the  **  absolutely  correct." 

The  passage  of  ''Roughing  It,"  just  quoted,  is  followed 
by  a  paragraph  containing  a  most  palpable  blunder. 

*'  The  legislature  sat  sixty  days  and  passed  private  toll-road  fran- 
chises all  the  time.  When  they  adjourned  it  was  estimated  that 
every  citizen  owned  about  three  franchises,  and  it  was  believed  that 
unless  Congress  gave  the  Territory  another  degree  of  longitude 
there  would  not  be  room  enough  to  accommodate  the  toll-roads.  The 
ends  of  them  were  hanging  over  the  boundary  line  everywhere  like  a 
fringe.  The  fact  is,  the  freighting  business  had  grown  to  such  im- 
portant proportions  there  was  nearly  as  much  excitement  over  sud- 
denly  acquired   toll-road   fortunes   as   over    the  wonderful   silver 


mines." 


No  one  will  be  disposed  to  cavil  at  the  humor  of  this 
piece  of  writing ;  it  bears  the  mint-stamp  of  the  coinage 
which  we  all  hope  will  for  many  years  be  unlimited  and 
free.  But  it  is  not  history.  The  most  cursory  perusal  of 
the  Laws  of  the  Territory  of  Nevada  for  the  session  in 
question  will  disclose  that  the  entire  number  of  toll-roads 
which  this  reckless  body  of  lawmakers  permitted  so  to  be- 
fringe the  boundary  was  precisely  six.'  The  succeeding 
session  did  more  to  merit  the  gibe.  Upwards  of  a  score  of 
these  franchises  were  then  granted,  and  scrutiny  of  the 
authorized  rates  of  one  of  them  makes  it  transparently 
clear  why  a  toll-road  was  a  bit  of  property  which  no  enter- 
prising citizen  should  be  without.  The  possessor  of  one 
bonanza,  a  fairly  typical  case,  had  the  legal  right  to 
charge  and  collect  tollage  at  these  princely  rates  : 

'*  Wagon  and  one  span  of  horses,  two  dollars  and  fifty 
cents. 

''Wagon  and  one  yoke  of  cattle,  two  dollars  and  fifty 
cents. 

''Each  additional  animal,  fifty  cents. 

"  Buggy  and  two  horses,  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents. 

"  Man  on  horseback,  fifty  cents. 


MARK    TWAIN    AND   NEVADA'S   LEGISLATURE.      149 


'*Each  pack  animal,  twenty-five  cents. 
**Each  loose  animal,  fifteen  cents.** 


All  said,  the  toll-road  nuisance  is  perforce  a  necessary 
one  in  the  development  of  wild  and  unsettled  lands  ;  and 
Nevada's  course,  as  a  well  known  historian  has  remarked, 
was  simply  of  a  piece  with  that  pursued  by  other  Terri- 
tories. 

Yet  it  is  not  so  much  by  reason  of  historical  inaccuracy 
in  matters  of  fact  that  the  author  of  Roughing  It — so  nobly 
scrupulous  of  personal  honor  himself — does  injustice  to  the 
members  of  Nevada's  first  legislature  ;  the  offence  lies 
rather  in  the  implication  of  selfish  incompetence.  A  rapid 
survey  of  something-  of  the  work  accomplished  by  these 
men  is  sufficient  answer.  Among  the  hundred  and  more 
enactments  during  those  sixty  days  which  Mr.  Clemens 
would  have  us  believe  were  given  over  to  the  passing  of 
'*  private  toll-roads  franchises  all  the  time,"  are  to  be  found 
laws  regulating  bills  of  exchange  and  promissory  notes, 
crimes  and  punishments,  and  the  important  question  of 
marriage  and  divorce ;  laws  adopting  the  Common  Law, 
specifying  the  qualifications  of  attorneys  and  councillors, 
defining  the  time  of  commencing  civil  actions,  establish- 
ing a  seminary  of  learning  in  Carson  City,  and  inaugura- 
ting a  common-school  system  for  the  Territory  ;  laws  se- 
curing mechanics'  liens,  fixing  the  age  of  majority,  pro- 
hibiting gambling,  and  providing  for  the  better  observance 
of  the  Lord's  day  ;  laws  concerning  the  taking  of  the  cen- 
sus, the  preservation  of  the  purity  of  the  ballot,  and  the 
care  of  the  public  records  ;  laws  authorizing  the  survey  of 
the  California  boundary  line,  locating  the  permanent  seat 
of  government,  mapping  out  the  judicial  districts,  and  de- 
termining the  terms  of  court ;  and,  not  least,  laws  grant- 
ing the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  the  right  to  construct  its 
line  from  border  to  border,  and  appropriating  revenue  for 
"the  support  of  the  government  of  the  United  States." 

To  the  testimony  of  this  legislation  may  be  added  the 
words  of  Governor  Nye,  who,  as  an  Eastern  man  and  a 
stranger,  hesitated  in  his  address  to  the  first  legislature  to 
take  the  initiative  in  regard  to  needful  legislation,  but  ex- 
pressed his  gratification  that  its  responsibilities  rested 
upon  *'  a  body  of  men  so  competent  to  their  charge."  That 
his  judgment  of  men  was  not  at  fault  the  work  of  the  first 
Nevada  legislature  bears  witness,  and  in  characterizing 
that  work  as  "discreet  and  moral,"  the  historian  of  the 
Pacific  States  fittingly  adds  that  *'  it  would  have  been  well 
could  they  have  kept  society  up  to  their  standard." 

New  York,  N.Y. 


The  Dream-Child  of  the  Mesa. 

A  PUEBLO  STORY. 


««\f 


o  interested  in  ruins,  seSor,  in  the  graves  of 
the  old  men,"  laughed  Marcelino,  one  of  the  chief 
citizens  of  the  white  adobe  citj  that  g-leama  beside 
Western  river ;  Marcelino  the  lifeful,  the  cheerful, 
lest  of  all  comrade*  for  an  hour  t>eBide  the  winter  fire 
ir  a  burning  sntnmer's  journej  across  the  desert ;  Mar- 
io of   the  proud   head,   the   snapping  ejes,  the  keen 
tongue,  whose  big  frame  was  thin  from  the  verj* 
vivaciousness  of  the  man.     Ue  sat  on  hia  blanket 
beaide  the  crackling  cedar  fire  of  the /og'on  on  a  fall 
night,  with  his  white  visitor  beside  him  and  hla 
toddling  daug-hter  asleep  in  his  am*. 

He  poked  a  brand  back  into  the  fii«  with  his 
moccasined  foot,  and  the  shadows  leaped  up  anew 
among  the  hewn  ceiling-beans  of  the  little  adobe. 
"  But  the  ruins  upon  the  mesa  yonder  are  interest- 
ing," he  went  on.  "  There  stood  this  town  countless' years  ago,  tbej 
say.  Why  was  it  abandoned?" — a  smile  crept  over  the  strong-  face — 
"you  will  never  be  happy  till  you  know,  I  suppose.  Rattlesnakes, 
seSor — so  say  the  old  men.  It  is  only  the  old  men  who  know  the 
stories  of  things  any  more—the  youths  are  taken  away  to  your  white 
acbools  and  miss  all  the  winter  stor^- telling.  Thus  they  know 
nothing.  Ay!  you  meddlers,"  he  finished  meaningly;  but  he  was 
good  natured,  for  he  knew  it  was  a  friend  to  whom  he  spoke.  Then 
he  continued,  after  accepting  some  cigarette  tobacco,  "  They  climbed 
the  black  mesa  in  fearful  numbers,  the  venomous  snakes,  so  that 
great  distress  fell  upon  the  village,  and  the  chief  men  connciled  to- 
gether in  the  esiu/a — there  where  you  saw  the  round  ruin  inside  of 
the  comer  where  the  two  lines  of  houses  join  thus"  (he  traced  an 
"  L, "  upon  the  dirt  floor)  to  plan  to  fight  the  new  enemy.  But  it  was 
no  use,  sefior — up  came  the  snakes  thicker  and  thicker  over  the 
ragged  black  top  of  the  village  rock,  and  as  the  good  women  of  the 
pueblo  ground  bine  com  on  the  metates  in  the  little  houses  way  up 
there,  behind  the  se wed-together  rabbit  skins  which  were  doors  in 
those  far  days,  seBor,  the  serpents  would  slip  within  and  bite  them 
upon  the  bare  arms  even  as  they  worked,  for  you  know  how  the 
woman's  hair  falls  forward  over  her  face  as  she  grinds,  so  that  she 
cannot  see.  You  understand,  then  the  rattlesnakes  were  not  as  now, 
hurting  only  when  hurt ;  they  were  as  an  enemy  upon  the  trail. 

"80  to  the  sound  of  much  weeping  the  people  of  the  mesa  pueblo 
gathered  against  the  setting  sun  and  went  down  from  the  great  rock 
forever,  moving  first  across  the  river,  and  then  to  this  town  of  our 
own— at  least  it  is  thus  according  to  the  old  men.  There,  you  have 
it  now,  seiior — but  you  are  a  good  man  for  a  white  one,  and  my  friend. 
That  is  the  truth  of  it  as  I  have  heard  it — but  there  is  more,  my 
friend.  I  had  a  dream."  Marcelino  leaned  forward  to  choose  a  coal 
from  the  fire,  and  lighted  the  com -husk  cigarette  he  had  deftly  rolled 
as  he  held  the  child  in  his  arms.  A  dream  from  Marcelino  7  Who 
would  have  suspected  him  of  dreaming  I  The  lively,  practical  Mar- 
celino, who,  one  would  think,  slept  too  sound  each  night  after  the 
day's  hard  work  in  the  fields  or  on  the  hunt  ever  to  find  room  for 
dreams  t 

There  was  silence  for  a  time,  while  he  gaxed  at  his  daughter's 
little  queue  of  light  auburn  hair  bound  with  a  red  woven  band.  The 
child's  light  hair  was  a  constant  wonder  to  the  stranger,  though  such 


THE   DREAM-CHILD    OF    THE    MESA.  151 

hair  is  sometimes  seen  in  the  white  cities.    The  father  took  his  time 
about  continuing'. 

"  A  dream  of  two  times,  of  Now  and  Then,"  he  began  after  he  had 
smoked  the  whole  cigarette  in  silence.  '*I  had  been  hunting  up  the 
river  one  day  in  the  late  summer,  and  making  for  the  pueblo  toward 
evening,  I  climbed  thie  black  mesa  the  better  to  view  the  edge  of  the 
sky  to  see  if  there  might  be  early  rains  upon  the  way.  And  sitting 
on  the  ruins  of  the  little  houses,  looking  far  out  over  the  broad  corn- 
fields of  my  people,  and  the  little  orchards,  and  beyond  them  the 
white  town  and  the  sacred  cross  of  the  church,  and  the  river,  and  be- 
yond all  the  big  mountains,  I  passed  into  sleep.  You  know  the  look 
from  up  there,  senor — it  makes  the  eyes  shut,  the  better  to  see  it  all. 
Perhaps  I  also  was  tired  from  the  hunt. 

'*  And  sleeping,  I  dreamed  the  forgotten  town  was  alive,  and  I  was 
a  stranger  in  it ;  and  women  ground  on  their  metates  in  the  little 
houses  while  the  young  men  sang,  and  maidens  went  to  and  fro  bear- 
ing jars  of  water  up  from  the  river,  and  men  sewed  zapatos  with 
bone  awls  and  sat  chipping  arrow  points  from  stone.  And  they  were 
all  such  strange  looking  people,  my  friend,  the  men  more  serious  of 
face  than  now — for  they  were  the  ancients.  And  the  sound  of  water 
was  in  my  ears,  for  it  seemed  the  river,  now  so  shrunken  and  with- 
drawn, swirled  about  the  mesa  on  both  sides.  Ah,  what  fortunate 
days !  If  the  good  river  would  but  grow  so  fat  again,  the  corn  plants , 
would  never  more  need  to  hang  their  heads  for  shame  at  the  withered 
grains  they  have  to  offer.  But  our  river  is  old,  and  like  old  men,  it 
grows  thin  and  weak  with  age. 

*'  But  as  I  stared  about,  as  strangers  will  when  they  came  into  a 
new  pueblo,  wailing  filled  the  town  and  the  old  men  came  up  out  of 
the  esiufa  bearing  the  precious  signs  and  relics,  and  gathering  to- 
gether all  the  people,  they  went  down  over  the  edge  and  passed  out 
upon  the  river  in  little  barks,  some  bearing  the  swollen  bodies  of  the 
dead  and  dying  who  had  been  bitten  by  the  snakes. 

"  I  watched  them,  straining  my  eyes,  to  see  where  they  went,  that 
I  might  know  whether  they  were  my  people  as  our  old  men  say  ;  but 
in  the  glare  that  lay  upon  the  water  from  the  low-hung  sun,  they 
drifted  beyond  the  power  of  my  vision. 

**  Then  suddenly  I  heard  a  cry  out  on  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  and 
against  the  big  fire  in  the  west,  with  arms  held  out,  and  hair  colored 
as  red  gold  from  the  color  of  the  sun,  I  beheld  a  little  girl,  who  called 
faintly,  *  tata,  tata ! '  [Father !  Father !]  She  had  been  left  behind, 
my  friend,  and  fearing  she  would  fall  from  the  cliff,  I  thought  I 
started  toward  her ;  but  the  only  move  I  made  was  to  open  my  eyes. 
In  front  of  me  sat  a  little  rabbit,  his  pink  nose  moving  as  he  con- 
sidered my  face,  and  his  ears  very  long  in  the  twilight.  It  is  the 
tiny  soft  rabbits  that  the  little  children  love  so  much,  senor — ^they 
were  made  especially  for  babies.  No  other  living  thing  was  upon 
the  mesa  with  me  ;  and  puzzling,  I  descended  toward  home.  When  I 
arrived  at  my  door  along  in  the  night,  I  found  this  little  girl  in  my 
house,  and  she  was  but  newly  come." 

Marcelino  brushed  his  big  brown  hand  over  the  sleeping  child's 
head. 

"  And  her  hair,  senor,  is  of  red  gold,  and  I  always  rescue  her  thus 
into  my  arms  at  twilight,  and  in  her  sleep  she  often  puts  out  her 
arms  and  calls — ah  !  listen  !  " 

The  child  moved  in  her  sleep,  and  putting  her  bare  arms  up  around 
Marcelino's  neck,  called  softly,  ''  tata,  tata  ! " 

Marcelino  pulled  his  red  blanket  up  so  as  to  shield  her  from  the 
draught  of  the  door.  The  firelight  had  not  the  strength  to  reach  up 
to  the  ceiling  now,  but  played  upon  the  upturned  face  of  the  child, 
and  upon  the  strong  profile  of  the  father's  face  as  he  looked  down. 


153  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

"  You  see  she  is  a  precious  child,  mj'  friend,  come  from  a  long'  time 
ag:o.  Ah  t  what  thin^fs  ahe  might  tell^no,  seSar  7 — thia  Mesa  Child ! 
She  ii  so  serious,  like  the  ancients."  The  father's  arms  tightened 
about  hia  wee  daughter,  and  he  rocked  her  gently  to  and  fro,  asking 
softly,  "Where  are  the  Mesa  Folk,  little  one  7     Are  you  lonely  7" 

"Bnt  jours  is  a  different  religion,  my  friend,"  said  Marcelino, 
coming  up  smiling  from  bis  reverie.  "  You  are  not  lost  in  the  desert 
as  we  are,  and  so  a  dream-ohild  will  never  be  bom  to  you.  But  you 
do  not  think  she  will  fall  over  the  cliff  to  her  people,  some  twilight  7 

I^  Aiurale*.  

Geographical  Peculiarities  of  Cali- 
fornia. 


a  geogxapTiical  point  of  view  Califoraia 

presents  more  numerous  and  more  marked 

peculiarities  than  any  other  State  of  the 

Union.     Before  the  acquisition  of  Alaska 

it  was  in  the  latitudinal   center   of  the 

United  States,  being  about  as  far   north 

of   the   parallel  of    Key   West  as    south 

of  the  parallel  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods ; 

and  since  the  acquisition  of  Alaska  it  has  been  and  is  now 

n  the  loneitudinal  center,  being  about  as  far  east  of  the 

meridian  of  Behring's  Island  as  west  of  the  meridian  of 

New  Brunswick,     It  follows,  therefore,  that  thoug-h  until 

recently  on  the  extreme  western  verge  of  the  United  States 

and  hitherto  generally   regarded   and  spoken  of   as    the 

Occident  and  remote  Far-West,  it  is  in  fact  central. 

It  is  not  only  central  longitudinally,  but  it  is  central  in 
another  and  more  important  respect.  There  is  as  much 
ocean  frontage  belonging  to  the  United  States  west  of  Cali- 
fornia as  there  is  east  of  California — that  is  to  say,  the 
Oregon,  Washington  and  Alaskan  sea-board  is  as  extensive 
as  that  from  Maine  around  Florida  to  Texas.  The  Atlan- 
tic coast  as  yet  excels  in  population,  productiveness  and 
commerce,  but  the  Pacific  coast  excels  in  youth,  capabili- 
ties and  prospects  for  the  future. 

Leaving  out  of  consideration  the  Atlantic  and  looking 
only  at  the  Pacific  coast  of  North  America,  we  find  that 
California  is  in  the  latitudinal  center  between  Panama  on 
the  south  and  Point  Barrow  on  the  north,  or  between  the 
heat  of  Darien  and  the  cold  of  Behring's  Straits,  There 
is  also  about  the  same  length  of  ocean  frontage  from  Cres- 
cent City  to  Icy  Cape  as  from  San  Diego  to  Point  Malo. 
The  exact  manner  in  which  the  land  of  North  America  was 
formed  may  be  doubtful ;  but  it  would  almost  seem,  upon 

■Ttaa  historian  of  Callfomis. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  PECULIARITIES  OF  CALIFORNIA.    153 

looking  at  the  map,  as  if  in  the  elevation  of  the  con- 
tinent the  western  coast  had  been  bulgfed  out  into  the 
Pacific,  and  that  California,  as  if  to  make  it  the  commer- 
cial center  of  traffic  with  Asia,  had  been  pushed  furthest 
forward  in  the  great  continental  curve.  If  it  be  true,  as 
we  are  taught,  that  * 'Westward  the  course  of  empire  takes 
its  way,"  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  commerce  of 
the  Pacific  will  one  day  equal  if  not  exceed  that  of  the 
Atlantic,  and  when  that  day  comes  the  unequalled  mari- 
time position  and  value  of  California  will  be  recognized 
and  appreciated. 

In  reference  also  to  the  prevailing  winds  and  currents 
between  North  America  and  Asia,  California  occupies  a 
central  position.  The  almost  constant  breezes  come  down 
across  the  northern  seas  upon  our  northwest  coast,  while 
the  regular  northeast  trades,  that  serve  to  temper  the  heats 
of  equatorial  Polynesia,  skirt  our  southern  borders.  Again, 
the  current  of  the  Kuro  Siwo  or  Gulf  Stream  of  the  North 
Pacific,  as  it  sweeps  down  from  the  Aleutian  Islands,  fol- 
lows the  same  general  course  as  the  winds,  striking  the 
coast  of  California  from  the  northwest  and  then  veering 
ofi^  to  the  southwest  and  helping  to  form  the  great  equa- 
torial current  that  flows  under  the  Tropic  of  Cancer  ever 
towards  the  west.  Under  a  skilful  pilot  the  ship  that  sails 
from  California  to  China  goes  out  in  a  southwesterly  direc- 
tion and  takes  advantage  of  the  southern  winds  and  cur- 
rents that  waft  it  towards  the  setting  sun,  while  the  same 
ship  in  returning  from  China  makes  for  the  north  and 
comes  in  like  a  racer  on  the  northern  winds  and  currents 
that  drive  it  along  from  the  northwest.  The  early  Spanish 
navigators,  who  may  be  said  to  have  laid  out  the  first  road* 
ways  across  the  Pacific,  soon  learned  the  main  facts  in  re- 
gard to  these  prevailing  winds  and  currents  and  the  man- 
ner of  their  impingement  upon  the  North  American  conti- 
nent, and  it  was  in  their  knowledge  of  these  facts  that  we 
find  the  reason  why  the  famous  old  Spanish  galleons  in 
their  trade  with  the  Orient,  on  their  outward  voyages  ran 
almost  directly  west  from  Acapulco  to  the  Philip- 
pine Islands,  but,  in  returning  with  their  treasures  of  silks 
and  spices  and  sweet-smelling  gums,  always  sought  a 
northern  latitude  and  came  down  with  full  sails  within 
sight  of  the  coast  of  California. 

Connected  also  with  these  winds  and  currents,  which 
have  much  the  same  tempering  and  equalizing  effects  upon 
the  west  coast  of  North  America  that  the  westerly  winds 
and  the  Gulf  Stream  have  upon  the  west  coast  of  Europe, 
are  the  extraordinary  curves  of  the  isothermal  lines  which 
distinguish  California  from  all  the  other  States,  make  it 


154  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

possible  to  grow  oranges  at  Chico  as  well  as  at  Los  Ange-^ 
les,  and  cause  us  to  reckon  our  degrees  of  temperature 
rather  by  longitude  than  by  latitude.  In  the  same  connec* 
tion  must  likewise  be  counted  our  remarkable  rain  storms 
and  the  position  we  occupy  between  the  too-large  precipi- 
tation of  Oregon  and  the  too-small  precipitation  of  Ari- 
zona. To  an  ordinary  observer  it  is  exceedingly  interest- 
ing, and  to  a  meteorologist  it  would  seem  that  nothing 
could  be  more  fascinating,  than  the  study  of  the  manner  in 
which  the  great  atmospheric  swirls,  hundreds  of  miles  in 
extent,  sweep  in  from  the  North  Pacific,  and,  according  as 
they  pass  eastward  over  British  Columbia  or  veer  to  the 
southward,  give  us  dry  weather  or  furnish  us  with  copious 
and  invigorating  rains. 

When  we  come  to  consider  the  topography  of  the  differ- 
ent parts  of  California  as  related  to  one  another,  we  find 
still  more  remarkable  features.  In  general  shape  the  State 
may  be  roughly  compared  to  one  felloe  of  a  wagon-wheel, 
with  its  convex  or  outward  rim  towards  the  ocean.  Most 
of  its  inward  rim,  with  the  exception  of  the  lava-beds  in 
the  northeast  and  the  sand  deserts  in  the  southeast,  is 
formed  by  the  high,  snow-crowned  crests  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada.  West  of  these  and  between  them  and  the  Coast 
Range  of  mountains  are  the  extensive  interior  valleys  of 
the  Sacramento  and  the  San  Joaquin,  with  their  two  great 
rivers,  one  from  the  north  and  the  other  from  the  south, 
and  each  supplied  and  reinforced  by  numerous  snow-fed 
tributaries  that  come  tumbling  down  from  the  Sierra  all 
the  way  from  Shasta  to  the  Tejon.  All  the  west  slope  of 
the  Sierra,  five  hundred  miles  in  length,  through  which 
these  reinforcing  streams  flow,  contains  more  or  less  au- 
riferous earth ;  and  every  one  of  the  streams,  whether  it 
swells  the  floods  of  the  Sacramento  or  the  San  Joaquin, 
rolls  down  a  rich  tribute  of  golden  grains. 

In  the  middle  of  the  outer  rim  of  the  felloe  above  refer- 
red to,  or  in  the  center  of  the  great  continental  curve  that 
protrudes  most  into  the  ocean,  and  almost  exactly  equi- 
distant from  Crescent  City  on  the  north  and  San  Diego  on 
the  south,  and  from  the  Modoc  lava-beds  on  the  northeast 
and  the  Colorado  deserts  on  the  southeast,  is  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco.  This  is  the  center  and  mouth,  so  to  speak, 
of  perhaps  the  most  symmetrical  and  interesting  natural 
drainage  system  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  The  entire 
western  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  is  much  the 
widest  and  deepest  slope  and  the  only  one  upon  which  any 
amount  of  rain  or  snow  is  precipitated,  drains  down  to  the 
confluence  of  the  two  great  rivers  on  the  east  of  Monte 
Diablo   and  thence  through  Suisun,  San  Pablo  and  San 


GEOGRAPHICAL  PECULIARITIES  OF  CALIFORNIA.    155 

Francisco  Bays  and  by  way  of  the  Golden  Gate  into  the 
ocean.  Every  one  who  examines  a  relief-map  of  California 
cannot  help  noticing  with  more  than  ordinary  interest  its 
magfnificent  interior  valleys,  each  several  hundred  miles 
long,  looking  as  if  they  had  been  scooped  out  and  leveled 
off  between  the  Sierra  on  the  one  side  and  the  Coast  Range 
on  the  other,  and  the  course  of  the  combined  river  drain- 
age around  the  northern  base  of  Monte  Diablo,  through 
the  Straits  of  Carquinez  and  around  the  southern  base  of 
Tamalpais  into  the  Pacific. 

In  addition  to  the  main  drainage  from  the  Sierran 
streams,  which  pours  into  the  head  of  Suisun  Bay,  are  the 
subordinate  currents  from  the  slopes  of  the  Coast  Range 
and  its  spurs,  which  thread  the  valleys  of  Suisun,  Napa 
and  Sonoma  on  the  north  and  those  of  Livermore,  Santa 
Clara  and  San  Mateo  on  the  south.  All  these  drain  di- 
rectly into  the  Bay,  and  increase  the  volume  of  waters  that 
find  their  exit  through  the  Golden  Gate ;  and  curiously 
enough  the  extent  of  territory  drained  and  the  amount  of 
drainage  are  about  the  same  north  of  the  Bay  as  they  are 
south  of  the  Bay.  just  as  the  extent  of  the  Sacramento 
Valley  and  the  water  drained  from  it  are  about  the  same  as 
those  of  the  San  Joaquin  Valley.  And  what  is  still  more 
remarkable  is  that  on  each  side  of  the  Bay,  and  substan- 
tially equidistant  from  it,  are  secondary  channels  of  drain- 
age, nearly  equal  in  extent  of  territory  drained  and  amount 
of  drainage,  the  one  to  the  north  being  that  of  Russian 
river,  which  flows  down  from  the  northwest  towards  the 
the  Bay,  but  before  reaching  it  suddenly  turns  west  and 
empties  into  the  ocean  in  Sonoma  county,  and  the  other  to 
the  south  being  that  of  the  Salinas  river,  which  flows  up 
from  the  southeast  towards  the  Bay,  but  before  reaching  it 
suddenly  turns  west  and  empties  into  the  ocean  in  Monterey 
county. 

Still  further  north  than  Russian  river  are  the  Gualala, 
Eel  and  Klamath  rivers,  while  south  of  the  Salinas  are  the 
Santa  Rosa,  Santa  Clara  and  San  Gabriel,  and,  as  if  to 
make  up  for  the  preponderance  in  size  of  the  Eel  and 
Klamath  on  the  north,  we  border  on  the  Colorado  on  the 
south.  So  of  our  mountains,  there  seems  to  be  a  balancing 
between  the  north  and  the  south.  In  other  words,  the 
rough  ridgy  country  in  the  northwest  corner  of  the  State 
is  paralleled  by  the  rough  ridgy  country  in  the  southwest 
corner.  Mount  Shasta  north  has  its  counterpart  in  Mount 
San  Bernardino  south.  Cape  Mendocino  north  finds  its 
apposite  in  Point  Concepcion  south.  Humboldt  and  Bodega 
Bays  north  have  their  correspondents  in  San  Diego  and 
Monterey  Bays  south.     And  so  with  respect  to  nearly  every 


156  LAND    OF   SUNSHINL. 

ffreat  physical  feature  of  our  State,  there  is  an  astonishing 
symmetry  between  the  two  parts.  There  was  the  same 
kind  of  symmetry  in  the  early  mining  days  between  what 
were  known  as  the  northern  mines,  which  were  supplied 
from  Sacramento,  and  the  southern  mines,  which  were  sup- 
plied from  Stockton.  There  is  the  same  kind  of  symmetry 
today  between  the  cinnabar  mines  north  and  the  cinnabar 
mines  south  ;  between  the  Trinity  mines  north  and  the  San 
Bernardino  mines  south  ;  between  the  mines  of  any  metal 
worked  north  of  the  Bay  and  of  the  same  metal  worked 
south  of  the  Bay.  There  is  the  same  kind  of  symmetry 
also  between  the  fields  and  orchards  and  gardens  of  the 
north  and  the  fields  and  orchards  and  gardens  of  the  south, 
differing  not  in  extent  or  beauty  or  value,  but  only  in 
variety  of  products.  There  is  the  same  kind  of  symmetry 
between  the  people  of  the  two  regions,  their  intelligence, 
their  activity  and  their  worth,  each  being  the  complement 
of  the  other,  and  evidently  calculated  to  remain  united,  to 
hold  together,  to  supplement  and  support  each  other,  and 
to  constitute,  at  least  while  the  physical  features  of  the 
<:ountry  remain  as  they  are,  one  undivided  and  indivisible 
State. 

San  Francisco,  Cal. 


Midsummer  Song. 

BY  HILTON  J*.    onsmR. 

When  wan  Midsummer  holds  the  land 
Close-clasped  within  her  mag-ic  hand, 
A  meUow  haze  enwraps  the  ways 
Where,  placid-browed,  the  mountains  stand. 

The  bounding  t>rooks  that  laughed  with  Spring, 
By  pebbly  banks  no  longer  sing; 
No  more  rejoice,  but  sink  their  voice 
To  dull  and  drowsy  murmuring. 

From  hedge  to  hedge  the  eye  can  trace 
The  silken  filaments  of  lace 
By  spiders  spun  ere  yet  the  sun 
Had  glimmered  o'er  the  morning  ways. 

Oppressive  silences  enfold 
The  songless  wood  and  sleeping  wold 
When  Noonday  spills  upon  the  hills 
Her  lavish  largesses  of  gold. 

And  yet,  though  hushed  the  song  of  streams, 
Most  gracious  is  my  lot,  meseems, 
For  joyous  still  by  copse  or  hill 
I  wander,  comraded  with  dreams. 


Plttsbarir,  Texas. 


As  another  rainj  seaBon  approaches,  with  its  menace  to  the  unpro- 
tected adobe  walls  of  the  old  Missions,  the  Club  again  urges  all  mem- 
bers to  paj  their  dues,  and  all  who  have  not  been  members  to  become 
so.  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  do  further  protective  work  at 
Capistrano,  San  Femaudo  and  San  Diego,  and  to  begin  the  conserva- 
tion of  Pala  before  this  winter's  rains  set  in.  The  Club  has  al- 
ready expended  some  t3,5O0  in  expert  repairs  at  the  three  first 
named  Missions ;  but  this  is  oalj  a  beginning.  The  article  on  an- 
other page  gives  some  idea  of  what  has  been  done  at  Capistrano. 
All  work  is  done  bj  experts  and  is  historically  correct ;  and  all 
moneys  received  go  net  to  the  cause.  Membership  is  $1  per  jear; 
life  membership  is  S25 ;  and  several  larger  donations  have  been  re- 
ceived. The  Missions  are  the  noblest  architectural  remains  in  the 
United  States ;  and  it  would  be  a  lasting  disgrace  to  permit  them  to 
disappear. 

CONTBIBnTIOKS  TO  THB  WORK. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $3,839.96.  Louisa  C.  Bacon,  Matta- 
poisett,  Mass.,S20(makingS50inall  from  her.)  SI  each:  Mrs.  J.  L. 
Hall,  Dr.  J.  A.  Mnnk,  Miss  M.  M.  Fette,  Los  Angeles. 


Were  not  the  Westerner  incorrigibly  modest,  it  would 
never  do  for  him  to  revisit  the  pale  frlimpses  of  the  East. 
Conformed,  now,  to  horizons  he  does  not  dent  with  his 
elbows  every  time  he  turns  around  ;  shriven  of  provincial- 
ism by  travel  and  comparison  ;  fond  of  the  people  who  still 
stay  where  they  happened,  while  he  lives  where  he  likes  ; 
living  next  door  to  Nature  and  just  across  the  street  from 
the  only  Better  Country  that  the  heart  of  man  hath  con- 
ceived— by  all  this  he  is  peculiarly  surefooted  and  of  well- 
seasoned  head,  warranted  not  to  swell.  He  can  view  with 
erood-natured  pity,  and  no  notion  of  arrogrance,  the  stuffed- 
doll  "  life"  of  his  unremoved  contemporaries.  It  does  not 
make  him  vain  that  "  we  do  these  thincrs  rather  better" — 
for  he  expects  travel,  elbow-room,  climate  and  other  evolu- 
tionary forces  of  the  first  magnitude  to  have  some  effect. 
He  remembers  what  they  have  done  for  him,  and  that  he 
did  not  invent  them. 

.  Otherwise  he  would  be  insufferable  after  a  return  to  the 
old  conditions  in  which  he  was  once  contented.  He  would 
be  insolently  puffed  up  over  the  mere  fact  that  90  per  cent, 
of  his  countrymen  dwell  in  a  climate  he  would  not  give  his 
neighbor's  yellow  dog — forgetful  that  while  he  now  knows 
better  than  to  live  in  such  weather,  it  is  largely  by  accident 
that  he  learned  sneemess" 

the  sweltering  dhouses  of 

Chicago  and  N  ir  slowness 

in  "modern  ii  n  odiously 

with  the  bette:  ,  of  which 

the  Easterner  1  d  swell  his 

chest  over  his  i  hygiene, 

in  domestic  eco  makes  for 

health  and  comfort  and  life.    But  having  learned  some- 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN,  159 

thing,  he  merely  takes  the  East  as  a  joke,  loves  the  people 
who  are  lovable,  doesn't  see  the  others  at  all,  does  not  pre- 
tend that  he  gave  Grod  the  idea  of  making:  a  Real  Country, 
and  says  no  more  of  his  luck  than  seems  needful  for  the 
spiritual  and  temporal  well-being  of  such  as  deserve  a 
better  fate  than  the  Bast. 

For  two  months,  now,  the  Lion  has  been  meandering, 
through  the  Hotbeds  of  Civilization  with  a  disinheriting 
eye,  perpetual  pores,  and  less  profanity  (he  trusts)  than 
anyone  ever  before  shed  on  the  like  provocation.  And,  be- 
ing still  in  melted  mood,  he  does  not  feel  competent  to  tell 
just  how  the  Old  Thing  looks.  But  there  are  a  few  mild 
reflections  which  may  serve  until  he  shall  come  where  the 
thermometer  needs  no  fire-escape. 

All  across  Kansas,  Missouri,  Illinois  and  Indiana     tawtai,xjs 

BY 

he  saw  the  fields  parched   and   shriveled — beside  cHoiat. 

vast,  muddy  rivers,  whose  volume  would  have  insured  a 
crop  to  every  acre  in  the  Middle  West.  Half  a  corn  crop, 
potatoes  burned  up,  stock  lean  for  want  ot  pasture.  And 
do  you  fancy  he  saw  a  hand  lifted  to  put  two  and  two 
together — the  starveling  crop  and  the  life-giving  water  ? 
Not  so  much  as  a  bucket  drawn  from  the  river  to  give  to 
drink  to  the  thirsty  fields.  Not  so  much  as  a  Mexican  ox- 
wheel  or  an  Egyptian  sweep — not  to  say  a  Mormon  irrigat- 
ing ditch.  And  this  in  a  country  which  understands  it- 
self to  be  smart !  One  would  fancy  that  even  if  these  four 
or  five  million  Americans  had  never  read  anything,  had 
never  heard  that  naked  fellahs  along  the  Nile  3000  years 
ago,  and  tribal  Aztecs  and  New  Mexican  ''savages"  a 
thousand,  knew  enough  to  keep  their  crops  from  choking 
to  death,  the  American  smartness  would  have  enabled 
them  to  invent  a  plan  so  simple.  But  no  I  The  only 
remedy  they  had  invented  was  to  pray  in  the  churches  all 
over  the  Middle  West  that  God  would  please  send  them 
some  rain.  In  one  case,  noted  by  the  newspapers  at  the 
time,  God  sent  rain — and  it  washed  away  the  church. 

Yes,  there  was  one  other  ingenuity.  On  one  train  the 
Lion  met  and  talked  with  eleven  farmers — no  two  in  com- 
pany— going  to  the  city  to  sell  oflf  their  cattle  for  what 
they  would  fetch,  as  there  was  nothing  to  feed  them 
withal. 


160  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

i!H«  BIGGEST  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  average  Eastern  fanner 

CHAKCB.  — though  he  would  look  with  horror  on  a  mere 
faro-player — is  the  most  conspicuous  of  gamblers.  His 
life  is  a  dicing  with  the  sky — ^his  year's  labor  on  the  turn 
of  the  weather.  He  uses  wit  and  industry,  like  the  gam- 
bler, on  a  "system"  to  beat  the  game;  but  the  percent- 
age is  against  him.  And  it  appears  never  to  have  oc- 
curred to  him  to  deal  his  own  weather.  This  seems  all 
right  to  him  ;  but  to  a  Californian  it  seems  a  stupidity  be- 
yond words.  In  the  arid  Southwest — in  Utah  and  Color- 
ado, New  Mexico,  Arizona  and  California,  the  land  that  a 
few  years  ago  was  **  the  Great  American  Desert,"  we  have 
taken  farming  from  the  category  of  three-card  monte  and 
made  it  a  science.  Freed  from  destructive  storms  by  the 
simple  device  of  a  long-enough  railroad  ticket ;  freed  from 
the  drudgery  of  doing  a  year's  work  in  half  a  year  (as 
they  must  do  where  the  other  half  isn't  fit  to  work  in) ;  re- 
lieved of  loneliness  and  big  workings,  since  we  can  get  as 
much  from  ten  acres  as  the  other  man  gets  from  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty ;  and  unworried  about  the  rainfall,  since  we 
wet  our  fields  and  our  whistles  when  they  need  it — ^why, 
we  have  made  farming  the  "  surest  thing  "  man  has  ever 
practiced. 

In  these  two  months  astray,  the  Lion  has  seen 
''^^soRDBR.  more  hot  days  and  nights,  has  perspired  more,  has 
seen  more  thunderstorms,  mosquitos,  wilted  collars,  mud, 
wrecking  winds  and  discomfort  in  general,  than  in  seven- 
teen years  of  California.  He  has  read  the  accounts  of 
more  deaths  by  sunstroke  than  ever  died  in  California  of 
any  epidemic ;  and  twice  as  many  people  were  killed  by 
the  sun  in  one  day  in  New  York  City  as  have  perished  by 
earthquake  in  the  West  since  history  began.  Sunstroke, 
by  the  way,  is  absolutely  unknown  on  the  Pacific  Slope. 

The  Lion  in  this  trip  has  personally  seen  but  two  people 
killed  by  the  sun — a  man  in  Chicago  and  a  little  girl  in 
New  York,  who  went  down  on  the  sidewalk  as  if  struck  by 
a  bullet.  Also,  seven  horses.  Thousands  of  horses  in  the 
big  cities  wear  big  straw  hats  to  save  them  from  a  like 
fate.  Fancy  telling  that  to  a  native  Westerner  I  And  one 
'  pleasant  July  day  he  saw  the  thermometer  stand  at  118°  on 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN.  1^1 

Dearborn  street,  Chicago.  The  official  record  was  103^ — 
taken  at  the  top  of  the  Auditorium  tower,  some  250  feet  in 
the  air.  This  was  doubtless  authentic ;  but  the  Lion  didn't 
observe  many  Chicagoans  walking*  around  on  a  level  with 
that  observatory — most  of  them  were  using  the  sidewalks. 
And  New  York  and  Washington  were  no  improvement  in 
comfort  or  safety. 

The    Lion    saw    no  better  railroad  trains  than     som« 

castjai* 
run    in    California.      He   saw   no    electric    street  comparisons. 

cars  so  good  as  the  best  in  Los  Angeles.  He  found  the 
employes  of  transit  systems  far  less  intelligent  and  far 
worse  mannered  than  we  would  tolerate  in  the  West.  He 
found  Chicago  and  New  York  wretchedly  inadequate  as  to 
street  signs,  and  numbered  in  a  medieval  and  ignorant 
fashion  Los  Angeles  discarded  when  it  was  a  country  town. 
Incredible  as  it  may  seem,  these  stupendous  cities,  with 
over  five  million  people,  cling  to  the  old  continuous  num- 
bering— and  sometimes  with  opposite  houses  a  hundred 
numbers  apart — instead  of  the  system  of  100  to  the  block. 
He  found  no  handsomer  school-buildings  ;  not  a  seventh  as 
many  churches  to  population  in  New  York  as  in  Los  An- 
geles ;  no  finer  drygoods  and  grocery  stores ;  no  better 
newspapers  (nor  so  many  in  proportion)  ;  less  prosperous 
looking  farms  and  more  dilapidated  villages  ;  dirty  streets, 
and  a  clamor  like  the  inferno.  As  for  attractive  homes, 
California  is  vastly  superior  to  any  part  of  the  East.  He 
found  Chicago  still  partly  using  its  well  as  a  cesspool,  and 
New  York  split  up  the  front  with  a  stenchsome  trench  for 
underground  transit,  and  horse-cars  still  in  evidence.  Ex- 
cept Washington,  which  is  beautiful  and  full  of  trees,  the 
great  Eastern  cities  are  worse  to  live  in  than  they  were 
twenty  years  ago  ;  noisier,  dirtier,  darker,  more  crowded  ; 
more  deserted  in  summer  by  the  privileged  class  who  can 
go  somewhere  to  be  comfortable,  more  crushing  to  those 
who  cannot.  Yet  millions  of  the  smartest  Americans 
choose  to  persist  in  these  bedlams  ;  without  room  or  time 
to  live,  cheerfully  drinking  and  breathing  the  ineffable  ex- 
halations of  several  million  other  reeking  citizens,  deny- 
ing their  children  their  birthright — the  Lion  has  not  seen 
in  the  whole  trip  a  dozen  children  with  the  California 


162  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

color  in  their  faces — ^yet  really  wondering  why  everyone 
else  doesn't  '*come  to  live  here."  And  the  Lion's  only 
comfort  in  the  whole  trip — aside  from  the  pleasure  of  his 
little  cub  in  wonders  she  hopes  never  to  see  again — ^has 
been  the  renewed  realization  how  lovable  some  people  can 
remain  in  that  environment.  Some  of  the  Salt  of  the 
Earth  are  there — ^here's  wishing  them  in  a  better  shake ! 

A  PitCK  The  incompatible  Prof.  Harry  Thurston  Peck  is  the  only 

^^  ally  of  the  discomfited  and  discredited  Selififman  strikers  to 

answer  back  a  word  to  the  charg'es  made  against  them  of 
immoral  and  unscientific  methods  in  the  Ross  case.  He  does  not, 
indeed,  pretend  to  answer  what  was  said  in  these  pages  for  June  as 
to  his  own  peculiar  procedure — ^which  even  a  cleverer  juggler  would 
find  hard  to  defend — but  in  his  August  Bookman  he  does  give  up 
about  a  page  to  a  lordly  waving  aside  of  the  accusation  as  "  amusing 
but  not  serious."  Naturally  he  deems  absurd  the  contention  that  the 
attack  on  Stanford  University  sprang  largely  from  Kastern  provin- 
cialism— of  which  he  is  no  mean  example.  This  need  not  be  dis- 
cussed now.  Insularity — ^and  Prof.  Peck*s  share  in  it — ^ia  a  good 
enough  text  at  any  time,  and  shall  have  in  its  time  its  sermon.  But 
his  **  defense,"  being  part  evasive  and  part  untruth  shall  have  its 
present  attention. 

We  understand  (and  this  is  the  vital  point),"  says  Prof.  Peck, 

that  Mr.  Lummis  has  accepted  official  favours  from  Prest.  Jordan 
and  from  the  other  authorities  of  the  Stanford  University.  That 
fact  must  prevent  everyone  from  taking  seriously  anything  that  he 
writes  or  says  upon  the  subject." 

It  might  be  convenient  to  him  if  **  that  fact"  would  so  prevent ; 
but  it  will  not.  There  are  people  to  whom  ''  the  vital  point"  will  be 
not  whether  Prof.  Peck  "understands"  that  I  have  accepted 
"  favours,"  but  whether  my  charges  arc  true.  Prof.  Peck  does 
not  venture  to  deny  them.  He  has  a  right  to  profess  that  his  own 
essays  would  be  unreliable  if  and  after  his  colleague  in  the  Columbia 
faculty  and  in  the  present  fiasco.  Prof.  Seligman,  offered  him  a  bow 
or  a  cigar  unrebuked.  He  has  a  right  to  admit  that  if  he  were  a 
lawyer  he  would  understand  that  a  retainer  bound  him  to  perjure 
himself ;  that  as  an  editor  and  reviewer  he  cannot  deal  truthfully 
with  a  book  from  whose  publisher  he  has  accepted  the  '*  favour"  of 
an  advertisement.  He  may  be  correct  in  fancying  that  in  the  circles 
which  he  adorns  this  is  the  generic  rule.  But  he  may  as  well  under- 
stand now  as  at  another  time  that  this  magazine  is  run  on  other  lines. 

But  Prof.  Peck  does  not  "  understand  "  any  such  thing.  It  is  pain- 
ful to  have  to  rebuke  a  Columbia  professor  twice  running  for  his 
misuse  of  the  King's  English.  Possibly  the  gentleman  meant  to 
tell  us  that  he  has  heard  someone  say  that  I  had  "  accepted  fav- 
ours."   And  quite  in  line  with  the  strikers  he  espouses,  this  is  quite 


//V    THE   LION'S   QEN.  163 

sufficient  for  him.  Without  attempting  to  verify  his  anonymous 
rumor,  therefore  plainly  not  caring  whether  it  was  true  or  not,  he 
has  given  this  foolish  falsehood  what  circulation  he  could. 

I  have  accepted  no  "  favours,"  official  or  unofficial,  from  Stanford 
University  or  any  of  its  authorities.  Nor  if  I  had  would  it  seem  to 
me  necessary  to  lie  in  its  behalf.  All  the  **  favours  "  of  all  the  uni- 
versities in  the  country  would  not  seem  to  me  a  good  bargain  for 
putting  my  name  to  a  careless  falsehood,  nor  to  screeds  so  ignorant 
and  ill-bred  as  Prof.  Peck  has  twice  signed  in  this  controversy.  If 
he  finds  it  "  amusing  "  to  be  charged  with  ignorance,  untruth  and  an 
indecent  assault  upon  a  woman,  I  can  but  envy  his  sense  of  humor. 
It  must  be  an  invaluable  possession  for  a  gentleman  so  peculiarly 
liable  to  be  amused  in  just  this  way. 

Death  has  been  striking  high,  of  late,  in  the  literary  ranks;      his 
and  since  the  last  issue  of  this  magazine  has  taken  four  SHiwiwo 

2CAILKS 

men  we  could  ill  afford  to  part  with.  W.  J.  Stillman,  who^e 
ripe  autobiography  was  barely  done  in  time ;  and  John  Fiske,  the 
eminent  popularizer  of  history — a  victim  to  the  Eastern  summer 
heat — and  Charles  Nordhoff,  the  pioneer  writer  of  California  as  a 
home  ;  and  Joseph  Le  Conte,  the  well-beloved  geologist — that  is  a 
heavy  toll  for  so  short  a  time.  California  has  been  taxed  dispropor- 
tionately in  the  death  of  Nordhoff  and  Le  Conte ;  two  of  her  most 
eminent  men  each  in  his  field,  and  two  whose  lives  made  life  better 
to  all  that  touched  them.  Even  in  this  material  age,  there  is  room 
and  reward  for  the  young  men  who  shall  seriously  and  broadly  try  to 
fit  themselves  to  fill  the  places  of  these  four. 

This  issue  has  been  seriously  delayed  by  the  removal  of      rsady 
the  office  of  publication  to  larger  quarters  especially  de-  ^^^ 

SXPA27SIOIV 

signed  for  the  business,  and  in  pursuance  of  plans  for  the  ^^ 

enlargement,  broadening  and  betterment  of  the  magazine.  Steps 
are  now  taking  to  acquire  a  complete  plant  of  its  own,  with  full 
equipment  not  only  for  the  production  of  the  magazine  but  for  a 
general  publishing  business.  Its  field  is  growing.  Lros  Angeles  is 
growing  faster  than  any  other  city  in  the  Union,  and  the  magazine, 
with  constantly  increasing  business  and  standing,  must  enlarge  the 
facilities  it  has  long  taxed.  Without  losing  any  of  the  qualities 
which  have  won  it  the  sort  of  friends  it  values,  it  expects  shortly  to 
make  improvements  which  will  very  greatly  increase  its  scope  and 
value. 

Bven  as  these  pages  are  upon  the  press,  our  President  has      about  Timb 
been  shot  down  by  an  obscure  and  unpronounceable  assas-  ^^^  ^^ 

sin.  It  is  too  early  (this  day  next  following  the  deed)  to 
forecast  the  outcome.  The  doctors  are  hopeful ;  and  surgery  is  not 
what  it  was  in  Garfield's  day.  On  the  other  hand,  Garfield  had  the 
advantage  of  a  dozen  years  in  age  and  of  a  far  more  normal  phy- 
sique. The  figure  President  McKinley  has  suffered  within  a  few 
years  makes  an  abdominal  wound  immeasurably  critical.     It  is  a 


164  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

Blender  thread  now  upon  which  hangs  so  much.  Every  genuine 
American,  of  whatsoever  faith,  will  earnestly  hope — and  each  after 
his  own  fashion  pray — ^that  the  President  shall  recover.  God  spare 
him — and  thus  much  of  our  country's  honor ! 

Whatever  the  result  of  these  shameful  wounds,  even  if  the  one 
chance  in  a  thousand  fall  in  our  favor,  we  may  now  count  that  within 
thirty-six  years  three  Presidents  of  the  United  States  have  been 
murdered  in  office.  If  anything  on  earth  can  give  a  moment's  pause 
to  our  national  hurrah  of  Prosperity  and  Progress,  this  should  be 
the  thing.  Like  little  wanton  boys  that  swim  on  bladders,  we  thump 
our  chests  in  glee,  and  bid  a  shrugging  elder  world  admire  how  we 
float.  Now,  perhaps,  we  can  stop  long  enough  to  remember  that  the 
ocean  is  old  and  deep  and  has  dealt  with  boys  and  bladders  before — 
and  shall  again. 

I/incoln,  Garfield,  McElinley — does  that  red  list  mean  anything  ? 

Is  this  Prosperity  ?    Do  we  expect  to  assassinate  a  President  every 

dozen  years,  if  only  we  are  Making  Money  ?    Is  there  no  one  to 

reckon  with,  save  one  addled  wretch  ?  Is  this  what  a  republic  means  7 

What  is  a  republic,  except  The  Lot  of  Us  ? 

The  murder  at  Buffalo  means  more  than  the  death  of  any  one  man. 

It  means  more  than  our  sympathy  for  him  and  his.    It  is  an  a£Pront 

and  shame  to  every  American,  a  blot  upon  our  country.    Three 

Presidents  murdered —  and  all  within  a  short  lifetime  1    What  other 

country  in  the  world  has  done  so  ill  ?    What  two  countries  have 

equaled  this  bloody  record  in  the  same  time  7    How  many  centuries 

since  a  King  of  England  has  been  assassinated  7  How  many  Czars 
have  perished  feloniously  within  our  memory  7  When  did  poor 
Mexico  butcher  a  Viceroy  or  President  7  Why  is  a  ruler's  life  less 
safe  in  this  country  than  in  the  "  revolutionary "  South  American 
republics  7 

Perhaps  it  means  something,  that  we  have  murdered  more  rulers 
in  thirty-six  years  than  any  other  civilized  country  has  in  a  hundred. 
Perhaps  it  means  something,  that  we  yearly  roast  alive  more  human 
beings  than  any  savage  tribe  ever  did.  Perhaps  it  means  something, 
that  we  have  more  murders,  rapes,  infanticides,  than  any  other  na- 
tion. And  if  any  of  these  things  mean  anything,  it  is  about  time, 
is  it  not,  for  us  to  find  out  what  they  mean  7  It  is  time,  perhaps,  for 
you  and  me  to  be  looking  ourselves  up  and  down  for  spots — ^for 
when  a  republic  goes  wrong,  no  man's  clothes  are  clean  from 
blood.  It  is  as  cowardly  as  it  is  childish  to  lay  these  things  to  un- 
digested aliens,  to  anarchists,  to  the  ignorant.  Is  this  an  alien 
country  7  Is  this  an  anarchic  country  7  Is  this  a  country  of  Poor 
White  Trash  7  Or  is  it  Ours  7  Who  lets  in  aliens  undigested  7  Who 
tolerates  anarchists  7  Who  leaves  ignorance  unremedied  7  Who 
shall  guard  the  life  of  our  chief  magistrate — police  and  an  army, 
or  the  faithful  citizenship  of  free  men  7  Who  makes  bad  laws  or 
leaves  good  ones  lax — ^the  hireling  politician  or  the  People  who  hire 
him  carelessly  7  It  may  be  a  good  time  to  suppress  anarchy  in  the 
United  States  ;  it  is  a  far  more  vital  time  to  feel  that  every  man  who 
rides  on  a  republic  is  a  thief  if  he  evades  his  fare.  There  are  a  few 
hundred  anarchists  in  this  country ;  there  are  millions  of  men  "  toa 
busy  "  to  render  anarchy  here  as  impossible  as  it  was  when  we  still 
'  remembered  the  old  ideals  of  the  republic. 

CSAS.   F.  LUMMIS. 


CanduEM  b,  WILLIAM  E.  SMYTHE. 

To  say  that  the  history  of  the  West  i»  the  record  of  rail-      cohbiming 
road-butlding'  would  not  be  entirely  correct.    Bnt  it  is  within  wbstiekn 

bounds  to  say  that  of  all   the   factors  engnged  in  planting-  bailroads. 

civilization,  where  fifty  years  a.go  Lhere  was  naught  but  primeval 
wilderness,  the  most  influential  was  the  iron  horse.  And  it  is  meas- 
urably true  to  add  that  the  prosperity  of  producers  and  the  progress 
of  settlement  in  this  Western  land  promptly  reflects  the  wisdom  or 
theerror  of  various  policies  in  railroad  management.  During  the  last 
few  years  certain  new  tendencies  of  mighty  import  to  the  economic 
life  of  the  West  have  been  oliservable  in  railroad  policy.  Of  these 
tendencies  the  most  important  by  far  is  that  which  looks  to  consoli- 
dation in  ownership  and  management.  This  process  be^n  at  the 
upper  edg'e  of  the  map  and  has  gradually  extended  until  it  includes 
the  great  ttarongh  line  which  parallels  the  Mexican  boundary.  Al- 
though the  aboOTption  of  many  local  lines  is  yet  far  from  complete, 
enough  has  tjeen  done  to  justify  the  statement  that  the  old  era  of 
competition  in  Western  railroading  has  now  passed  away,  and  that 
in  its  [dace  there  has  come  a  new  era  of  combination  and  of  har- 
mony. The  change  must  be  a  matter  of  vast  significance.  It  must 
necessarily  have  a  close  and  intimate  relation  to  the  future  commer- 
cial life  of  the  West,  using  the  term  in  its  broadest  sense  as  touching 
not  only  the  exchange  of  commodities,  but  the  settlement  of  people 
on  the  Land,  the  development  of  mining  and  manufacturing,  and  the 
growth  of  cities.  This  new  influence  cannot  be  neutral.  It  must  lie 
positively  good  or  positively  bad.  And  it  is  a  matter  of  the  highest 
interest  and  importance  to  consider  which. 

The  theory  of  competition  is  that  when  the  public  is  dia-      Thboky 
satisfied  with  rates  or  service  from  a  given  line  it  may  find  OF 

m:ompt  relief  by  transferring   its    patronage  to  another.  cohpsTITIon. 

The  further  theory  is  that  thd  constant  struggle  for  business  between 
competing  roads  will  result  in  preserviag  reasonable  charges  all 
around.  The  reverse  of  this  proposition  would  be  that  where  there  is 
no  competition  the  public  must  submit  to  an  arbitrary  tariff  and  ser- 
vice, and  that  the  single  management  which  controls  the  only  means 
of  transportation  will  be  able  absolutely  to  dictate  the  terms  upon 
which  business  may  proceed.  If  these  propositions  be  sound,  it  would 
almost  inevitably  follow  that  the  recent  consolidations  must  be 
calamitous  to  our  people.     But  are  they  sound  7 

However  men  may  diflfer  on  other  subjects,  they  agree      TBACaXNG 
that  experience   is   more   valuable    than    abstract   theory.  oP 

Now,  California  and  the  West  have  had  thirty  years'  expe-  BXfbrebkcb. 

rience  with  competitive  railroad  management.  Have  the  results 
been  all  that  the  theory  would  seem  to  imply  7  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
haa  the  machinery  of  competition  furnished  an  automatic  means  of 
relief  from  high  charts  and  poor  service  7     By  withholding  traffic 


166  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

sources  7  In  a  word,  have  the  results  of  competition  been  so  satis- 
factory that  we  must  now  contemplate  any  change  with  dread  as 
something'  which  must  inevitably  prove  unfortunate  ?  These  ques- 
tions go  to  the  root  of  the  matter.  Every  one  of  them  must  be 
answered  in  the  negative.  Competitive  railroad  management  has  not 
in  practice  given  us  the  results  which  it  promises  in  theory.  To  the 
business  community  it  has  brought  alternating  periods  of  high  rates 
and  low,  with  perpetual  uncertainty  as  to  what  transportation  charges 
will  be  in  the  future.  This  condition  is  always  disturbing  to  com- 
merce. To  the  railroads  themselves  competition  has  brought  de- 
structive rate  wars  and  has  frequently  led  to  financial  embarrassment 
and  even  to  bankruptcy.  The  ulterior  effects  have  been  seen  in 
political  warfare  between  the  public  and  the  corporations,  in  com- 
mercial stagnation  at  certain  times  and  places,  and  in  the  utter  dis- 
couragement of  that  interest  which  underlies  all  others  in  Western 
development — ^the  interest  of  colonisation.  Whatever  may  come 
from  the  policy  of  consolidated  ownership  and  management,  the 
policy  of  competition  among  Western  railroads  has  been  proven  to 
be  unscientific  and  unfavorable  to  the  best  interests  of  patrons  and 
of  stockholders. 

IN  oi/D  What    is    the    promise  of  results  under  the  new  order  of 

BNCi^AND  things  ?    The  policy  may  be  judged  in  the  West  only  by  its 

AND  IN  NEW.  earliest  manifestations.  But  in  other  communities — both  in 
old  England  and  in  New  England,  for  instance — ^it  may  be  weighed 
in  the  scales  of  the  years.  Public  sentiment  in  Great  Britain  is  not 
favorable  to  the  kind  of  competition  we  have  had  in  the  West.  There 
existing  railroad  lines  cannot  be  paralleled  without  a  special  act  of 
Parliament.  It  must  be  shown,  first  of  all,  that  there  is  a  public 
need  for  the  new  line.  Then,  that  the  business  is  capitalized  on  the 
basis  of  the  actual  investment,  so  that  the  large  values  represented 
by  the  franchise  given  by  the  public  shall  not  be  used  as  a  basis  for 
the  issue  of  securities  on  which  dividends  shall  be  compelled.  Fur- 
thermore, the  public  limits  charges  to  the  lowest  rate  of  interest  on 
safe  investments ;  dictates  the  character  of  construction  ;  and  tests 
every  mile  of  track,  every  culvert  and  every  bridge  before  trains  are 
permitted  to  be  run.  Under  such  conditions  railroad  monopoly  does 
not  imply  the  oppression  of  the  traveling  or  shipping  public. 
Such  regulations  are  impossible  where  unrestricted  competition  pre- 
vails. £i  other  words,  the  protection  of  the  public  interests  carries 
with  it  the  obligation  to  protect  the  capital  invested  in  the  work. 
It  is  better  for  the  public  and  better  for  the  capital.  And  the  first 
step  to  the  adoption  of  such  methods  in  the  West  was  taken  when 
James  J.  Hill  consolidated  the  Great  Northern  with  the  Northern  Pa- 
cific, thereby  eliminating  competition  from  the  Northwest.  In  New 
England  the  process  of  consolidation  begun  some  fifteen  years  ago. 
Practically,  there  are  but  two  railroad  systems  in  all  New  England 
today.  These  two  have  absorbed  their  many  competitors.  Liower 
charges  for  freight  and  passenger  traffic,  and  infinitely  better  ser- 
vice, have  resulted.  Morever,  the  assertion  of  public  authority  has 
been  better  justified,  better  received,  and  more  effective. 

RBsui^TS  The  new  policy  in  the  West  is  as  yet  in  its  early  infancy. 

IN  THE  What  has  it  demonstrated  thus  far  ?    To  begin  where  the 

NORTHWEST,  policy  itself  began,  has  it  exerted  a  depressing  influence  on 
the  vast  region  between  Lake  Superior  and  Puget  Sound  ?  On  the 
contrary,  it  has  worked  well  for  both  public  and  private  interests. 
The  development  of  the  Dakotas,  of  Montana,  of  Idaho  and  of  Wash- 
ington has  gone  forward  with  a  vim  and  a  vigor  hitherto  unknown. 
A  new  spirit  of  enterprise  has  begun  to  thrill  through  every  commu- 
nity.   New  agricultural  districts  are  beginning  to  be  settled  and  old 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  167 

towns  to  shake  ofF  the  lethargy  which  held  them  in  bonds.  The 
effect  on  the  railroad  properties  themselves  has  been  equally  strik- 
ing*. Paying-  roads  have  been  made  more  profitable,  while  those  that 
had  been  bankrupt  are  now  making  money. 

In  California  the  consolidation  policy  has  so  far  produced      and 
no  bad  results,  but  seems  to  promise  to  accomplish  as  much  in 

good  as  it  has  done  elsewhere.    The  new  head  of  the  South-  caupornia. 

em  Pacific  system — now  a£51iated  with  the  Union  Pacific — began 
with  the  grateful  announcement  that  he  would  take  the  road  out  of 
politics.  He  proceeded  to  reform  many  minor  abuses.  Acting  in 
harmony  with  the  management  of  the  Santa  F6,  he  made  rates  for 
colonists  which  permit  large  numbers  of  people  to  visit  the  Pacific 
Coast  with  a  view  to  making  their  homes  here.  This  is  the  true 
policy  for  Western  railroads — to  enable  people  to  inhabit  their  terri- 
tory. It  has  been  estimated  that  every  family  settling  upon  a  given 
line  is  worth,  considering  what  it  ships  in  and  what  it  ships  out, 
$250  per  year  to  the  railroad.  When  people  shall  come  by  thousands 
and  tens  of  thousands  this  figure  will  amount  to  a  very  great  total. 
Under  the  competitive  plan  it  was  practically  impossible  to  carry 
this  philosophy  into  the  head  office  of  every  corporation.  By  the 
time  one  president  had  been  convinced  five  others  had  slipped  off  the 
hook.  If  one  road  granted  low  rates  the  others  inaugurated  a  rate 
war.  This  demoralized  traffic  and  had  a  tendency  to  increase  charges 
in  the  end.  With  consolidated  management  it  is  only  necessary  to 
convince  a  few  broad-gauged  men.  Then,  if  the  plan  prove  suc- 
cessful, it  can  be  made  permanent  without  any  danger  of  disrupting 
the  whole  basis  of  traffic  by  precipitating  strife  among  the  railroads. 
The  simple  truth  is  that  just  in  proportion  as  the  business  of  trans- 
portation is  brought  into  harmony  does  it  become  truly  scientific. 
That  the  present  railroad  policy  marks  the  end  of  progress  no  one, 
of  course,  can  pretend ;  but  that  it  is  more  intelligent  and,  hence, 
more  favorable  to  the  development  and  prosperity  of  the  West  than  the 
reckless  competition  we  have  had  in  the  past,  no  thoughtful  student 
of  our  economic  life  can  deny.  The  subject  is  one  worthy  of  much 
deeper  consideration  than  it  can  be  given  here,  but  the  point  is  this : 
L#et  us  be  thankful  for  what  we  have ;  let  us  have  faith  that  even 
better  things  are  ahead.  This  should  at  least  be  the  philosophic 
attitude  of  those  who  believe  that  the  final  solution  of  the  trans- 
portation problem  will  be  found'  in  government  ownership.  However 
remote  that  solution  may  be,  the  transition  could  be  effected  far 
more  easily  after  consolidation  than  l)efore.  Competition  leads 
inevitably  to  combination  ;  combination  to  monopoly ;  monopoly  to 
public  ownership.  Such  has  been  the  process  in  the  case  of  water 
and  lighting  systems  in  many  cities,  and  such  is  the  apparent  ten- 
dency of  street  railways  in  several  conservative  communities.  But 
let  us  wait  and  see  what  the  railroad  monopoly  purposes  to  do 
with  us. 

At  no  time  since  the  great  railroad  boom  between  188G      Thb  rivai, 
and  1890  has  the  construction  of  new  lines  been  so  active  in  roads  to 

the  West  as  now.    That  the  long-cherished  dream  of  direct  SAi«T  i^akb. 

connection  between  Salt  Lake  and  Los  Angeles  should  now  material- 
ize in  the  form  of  two  rival  lines — both  backed  with  amplest  capital 
— ^is  one  of  those  rare  surprises  which  does  not  too  often  mark  the 
history  of  our  development.  The  terminals  of  these  roads  both  rank 
among  the  most  remarkable  of  American  cities.  Both  are  towns  of 
extraordinary  historical  interest ;  both  have  exerted  an  unusual 
influence  upon  the  sections  in  which  they  are  located ;  and  both  have 
continued  to  pile  up  population  through  good  times  and  bad.  If  Salt 
Lake  and  Los  Angeles  were  taken  off  the  map  of  the  West  and  out 


168  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

of  its  history  for  the  last  half  century  what  holes  they  would  leave 
in  both !  It  would  be  difficult  to  conceive  of  either  map  or  history 
without  these  great  dominating'  communities  in  their  respective  sec- 
tions of  the  West.  Two  new  railroad  lines  with  such  electric  bat- 
teries at  their  terminal  points  must  exert  an  influence  little  less  than 
magical  upon  that  wide  region — ^vacant  and  voiceless,  but  richly  en- 
dowed with  every  source  of  economic  wealth — ^which  lies  between 
them  and  which  has  waited  so  long  for  its  day  of  development  to 
dawn.  Rich  mines  which  could  not  get  their  ores  to  market  for  lack 
of  transportation  facilities  ;  veritable  mountains  of  iron  and  of  salt 
which  have  lain  as  idle  and  useless  as  if  they  were  so  much  dirt ; 
wasted  rivers  of  precious  waters  with  countless  thousands  of  potential 
horse-power;  fertile  lands  where  homes  for  millions  might  raise 
their  roofs  against  the  background  of  purple  mountains — all  these 
are  now  to  b€»come  factors  that  count  in  the  making  of  civilization. 

ARIZONA  Arizona,  too,  is  getting  its  share  of  the  new  railroad  ac- 

8TRIDIN6  tivity.    Phelps,    Dodge   A   Company  are  pushing  the  line 

AHBAD.  eastward  from  their  wonderful  copper  camp  at  Bisbee  to 
connections  at  Bl  Paso.  Well  informed  men  see  in  this  move  the 
purpose  of  the  Rock  Island  to  stretch  its  arm  westward  to  the  Pacific. 
Local  lines  are  also  being  improved  and  extended  in  the  mining  re- 
gions of  Arizona.  Northern  Mexico  is  feeling  the  influence  of  this 
development  and  getting  new  facilities  of  communication.  With  its 
mining,  its  railroad-building,  and  its  prosperous  live-stock  industry, 
Arizona  is  increasing  its  population  and  fast  becoming  one  of  the 
brightest  spots  on  the  map  of  the  United  States.  It  is  to  be  another 
Africa  so  far  as  the  production  of  wealth  is  concerned.  But,  spite  of 
the  long  delay  in  getting  Statehood,  it  will  not  be,  like  South  Africa, 
a  graveyard  of  liberty. 

SAN  DEBGO'S  In  the  midst  of    all  this    Southwestern  prog^ss  what  is 

RISING  San  Diego  doing  ?    The  City  of  the  Silver  Gate  is  by  no 

HOPSS.  means  indifferent  to  the  opportunities  which  may  come  to  it 
from  the  present  era  of  prosperity,  local  and  national.  It  is  arraying 
all  its  forces  for  a  supreme  effort  to  break  the  walls  of  its  isolation 
and  establish  direct  communication  with  Yuma.  Such  a  route  would 
be  the  true  short  line  to  the  Orient,  saving  hundreds  of  miles  of  rail- 
road travel  and  avoiding  high  grades  and  snow  blockades.  But  it  is 
in  its  local  aspect  that  the  matter  appeals  most  strongly  to  San 
Diego.  While  no  one  has  denied  that  San  Diego  has  a  superb  harbor 
in  front  of  it,  few  have  realized  or  admitted  that  it  had  also  a  vastly 
productive  mineral  and  agricultural  country  behind  it.  But  the  men 
who  are  now  turning  the  waters  of  the  Colorado  River  upon  the  vast 
stretch  of  fertile  delta  soil  have  found  the  key  to  San  Diego's  back 
country.  They  have  unlocked  the  door  and  thrown  it  wide  open. 
What  this  means  to  the  future  of  San  Diego,  provided  that  it  can 
somehow  manage  to  get  the  Eastern  railroad  outlet,  it  is  difficult  for 
anyone  fully  to  appreciate,  even  with  the  essential  facts  before  them. 
Ifet  it  be  put  in  this  way :  If  Phoenix  and  the  irrigated  lands  of 
Salt  River  Valley  were  placed  at  one  end  of  the  Colorado  Delta ;  if 
Bakersfield  and  the  irrigated  lands  of  Kern  Valley  were  placed  at 
the  other  end;  then  if  Fresno  and  the  large  district  watered  by 
Kings  River  were  placed  in  the  middle,  none  of  these  great  com- 
munities would  touch  the  other.  Redlands  and  Riverside,  each  with 
its  surrounding  cultivated  area,  might  be  added  to  the  new  district 
which  is  now  being  spoken  into  life  by  the  waters  of  the  Colorado 
River,  and  stiU  there  would  be  ample  room  for  growth.  These  are 
marvelous  facts,  of  deep  significance  to  the  cities  so  situated  as  to 
become  the  points  of  exchange  for  all  that  such  a  country  may  pro- 
duce and  consume.    Well  may  the  people  of  San  Diego  realize  that 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  169 

this  is  the  supreme  moment  in  the  making-  of  their  cit  j — that  if  this 
opportunity  escapes  them  they  will  be  sidetracked  for  years  to  come. 
Under  any  circumstances  the  trade  of  this  region  must  be  divided 
with  Los  Angeles  to  some  extent.  But  without  the  projected  rail- 
road it  will  go  there  entirely.  The  present  indications  are  that  San 
Diego's  railroad  movement  will  be  successful,  and  that  the  next 
national  census  will  reveal  a  larg-e  increase  not  only  in  the  popula- 
tion of  the  county — ^which  is  already  assured — but  in  that  of  the  city 
as  well. 

Cooperation    has    now    become    the    firmly   established      coOpbraTION 
method  of  marketing  the  product  of  California  orchards  soi«D  THBIR 

and  vineyards.    It  has  been  vindicated  in  good  times  and  in  prunes. 

bad  times,  and  the  fact  is  proven  that  prosperity  on  the  part  of  the 
producer  is  an  exact  ratio  to  his  control  of  the  market.  It  is  true 
that  in  fixing  a  season's  prices  cooperative  exchanges  have  some- 
times overshot  the  mark,  but  the  resulting  losses  have  been  trifling 
compared  with  those  which  the  growers  sustained  when  commission 
houses  fixed  prices  on  a  basis  which  did  not  allow  them  to  make  a 
living.  One  of  the  most  interesting  examples  of  the  benefits  which 
may  arise  from  cooperation  is  seen  in  a  recent  experience  of  the 
prune-growers.  I^ast  year  there  was  a  very  large  prune  crop.  The 
California  Fruit  Association  fixed  the  prices  reasonably  high — ^un- 
reasonably high,  some  people  said.  In  consequence  of  this,  or  for 
some  other  reason,  the  crop  did  pot  move  satisfactorily.  "Full  of 
prunes  "  may  be  a  slang  expression  under  some  circumstances,  but  it 
exactly  expressed  the  condition  of  the  farmers  of  Santa  Clara  Valley 
and  many  other  horticultural  districts.  With  another  year's  crop 
coming  on,  what  was  to  be  done  about  that  which  already  remained 
largely  unsold  ?  If  the  g-rowers  had  not  been  thoroug^hly  organized 
under  able  leadership  nothing  could  have  been  done  except  to  take 
such  terms  as  might  be  offered  by  an  unsympathetic  market.  But 
the  prune-growers  were  well  organized.  They  had  brains  and  they 
had  capital.  They  were  therefore  in  a  position  to  make  a  fight  for 
their  lives.  They  decided  that  the  real  cause  of  their  troubles  was 
not  overproduction,  but  underconsumption.  That  is  to  say,  none  too 
many  prunes  are  being  raised  in  Csdifornia,  but  the  world  is  not 
eating  as  many  prunes  as  it  ought  to.  Doubtless  there  are  many 
people  who  do  not  know  that  the  prune  is  a  very  nutritious  article  of 
diet.  Many  others  think  that  it  is  only  good  when  stewed.  They  do 
not  realize  that  it  may  be  served  in  a  hundred  other  palatable  ways. 
So  the  Cured  Fruit  Association  decided  to  advertise  the  glorious  prune 
and,  in  a  mild  sort  of  way,  to  thrust  it  down  people's  throats  whether 
they  wanted  it  or  not.  They  proceeded  to  take  space,  '*  top  of  column, 
next  to  reading  matter,"  in  about  all  the  newspapers  of  the  land. 
They  had  the  ladies  prepare  a  most  appetizing  cook-book  showing 
the  many  and  seductive  dishes  which  might  be  built  upon  the  humble 
prune  as  a  foundation.  Doubtless  they  also  obtained  professional 
testimonials,  to  the  effect  that  **  I  ate  your  prunes  two  years  ago  and 
and  have  eaten  no  others  since,"  or  to  the  effect  that  *'  my  husband 
was  never  good  to  his  family  until  I  began  to  feed  him  on  prune 
shortcake,  and  now  he  is  an  angel."  But  the  writer  has  not  seen  the 
testimonials.  He  merely  infers  that  the  enterprising  prune-growers 
went  the  whole  figure.  At  any  rate,  they  made  a  success  of  their 
effort  to  unload  their  surplus  crop  on  a  world  that  was  dying  for 
prunes,  but  which  did  not  know  it.  The  following  extracts  from  a 
letter  written  by  President  F.  N.  Woods,  of  the  California  Cured 
Fruit  Association,  give  evidence  that  this  is  so  : 

"We  have  succeeded  in  opening  up  several  new  markets  for 
prunes,  some  in  Europe,  some  in  the  Orient,  and  more  in  our  own 
country,  through  liberal  advertising.  This  advertising  was  a  grand 
success.    It  called  the  attention  of  people  all  over  the  United  States 


170  LAND   OF   SUNSHiNE. 

to  the  beneficial  qualities  of  the  prune  as  an  article  of  diet,  and  we 
received  thousands  of  inquiries  for  our  cook-book  and  other  informa- 
tion regarding  prunes.'' 

And  now  the  Associated  Press  brings  the  joyful  news  that  the 
prune-growers'  exchange  has  just  unloaded  24,000,000  pounds  of  its 
product  on  Eastern  buyers  at  a  sing^le  stroke.  They  received  $50,000 
spot  cash  and  were  to  get  the  balance  of  $250,000  when  the  fruit  was 
weighed  and  shipped.  The  sale  was  made  at  a  very  fair  price.  The 
plain  lessson  of  this  experience  is  that  it  is  necessary  for  the  pro- 
ducers to  act  in  cooperation  in  order  to  protect  their  interests  and 
widen  the  market  for  their  products. 

Tsat  The  regular  readers  of  this  department  will  find  a  thread 

EDitosiAi,  of  consistent  purpose  running  through  it  from  month  to 

TARGBT.  month.  While  each  issue  is  intended  to  be  complete  in 
itself,  so  that  it  shall  interest  the  merely  casual  reader,  it  is  the  per- 
manent audience  composed  of  those  deeply  interested  in  the  growing 
civilisation  of  the  West  that  the  editor  means  constantly  to  keep  in 
mind.  Hence,  the  editorial  articles  and  outside  contributions  are 
designed  to  possess  a  certain  quality  of  continuity  which  will  g'ive 
them  peculiar  force  when  read  as  a  whole.  The  editor  has  very  de- 
cided views  as  to  the  trend  of  legislation  and  character  of  institu- 
tions which  will  enable  the  West  to  develop  a  type  of  civilisation 
suited  to  its  environment  and  to  the  human  needs  of  the  Twentieth 
Century.  Naturally,  he  desires  to  see  these  views  find  general  ac- 
ceptance in  the  end.  This  result  can  only  be  attained  by  scientific 
processes.  Economic  laws  grind  their  own  grist  regardless  of  the 
puny  efforts  of  men.  But  t£e  happiness  and  prosperity  of  the  gen- 
erations who  succeed  each  other  as  tenants  of  the  earth  depend 
very  largely  upon  their  perception  of  the  character  and  meaning  of 
these  economic  laws  and  upon  their  success  in  bending  their  institu- 
tions to  fit  them.  To  illustrate,  a  few  million  people  are  living 
between  the  Missouri  River  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  where,  in  God's 
good  time,  twice  as  many  as  now  live  in  the  entire  United  States 
shall  come  to  make  their  homes.  They  are  using  land  and  water 
under  laws  and  customs  inherited  from  their  fathers  who  dealt  with 
entirely  different  conditions.  In  order  to  discover  the  error  of  these 
laws  and  customs  we  must  take  them  up,  one  by  one,  for  patient 
analysis.  Then  we  must  study  thie  forces  that  surround  us  and  try 
to  find  out  by  what  measures  of  reform  and  progress  we  may  lay  the 
best  foundation  for  the  prosperity  and  freedom  of  our  future  millions. 
Thus  in  these  early  numbers  we  shall  look  at  our  water  and  land 
laws,  at  our  colonisation  and  cooperative  efforts,  as  they  now  exist. 
Presently  we  shall  have  discovered  their  elements  of  weakness  and 
of  failure  and  shall  then  ^oceed  to  develop  plans  for  their  improve- 
ment. This  explanation  is  made  as  a  means  of  training  the  reader's 
mind  upon  the  editorial  target  from  the  same  standpoint  that  the 
writer  has  chosen  in  his  work. 


171 

How  TO  Colonize  the  Pacific  Coast. 

FIRST  PAPER. 
SEMI-PUBUC,    PRIVATE  AND   COH3PERA1MVE    EXPORTS. 

I. 

ffN  this  series  of  papers  we  are  to  consider  one  of  the  big^rest 
I  subjects  that  can  engragre  the  thoughts  of  the  builders 
of  the  West.  How,  indeed,  shall  we  colonize  the  Pacific 
Coast  ?  We  are  not  doing  so  very  rapidly  today.  With  all 
the  advantages  of  soil,  climate,  mineral  wealth  and  elbow 
room,  the  growth  of  California  in  the  last  decade  barely 
kept  pace  with  the  average  growth  of  the  oldest  Eastern 
States.  What  is  even  more  strange,  such  growth  as  there 
was  went  more  largely  into  cities  and  towns  than  into  the 
settlement  of  country  districts.  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
many  of  the  latter  actually  declined  in  population. 

Colonization  is  not  a  subject  of  narrow  interest,  appealing 
only  to  those  with  land  to  sell.  The  growth  of  population 
is  a  matter  of  high  importance  to  the  railroads,  because 
they  will  move  the  people  and  their  products ;  to  whole- 
aale  and  retail  stores,  because  they  will  furnish  them  with 
supplies;  to  banks,  because  they  will  receive  their  deposits 
and  make  them  loans;  finally,  to  States,  counties  and 
towns,  because  they  will  look  to  them  as  a  body  of  tax- 

?ayers  with  whom  the  public  burdens  may  be  shared, 
^hus  colonization  involves  the  whole  broad  question  of  our 
development  and  prosperity. 

During  the  past  fifty  years  in  which  the  settlement  of 
irrigated  lands  has  been  going  on,  three  leading  agencies 
have  been  employed  in  the  work,  as  follows  : 

1.  The  semi-public  efforts  of  railroads,  local  Chambers 
of  Commerce  and  State  Boards  of  Trade,  aiming  at  the 
promotion  of  immigrati6n  to  certain  large  sections,  rather 
than  at  the  sale  of  specific  tracts  of  land. 

2.  The  private  efforts  of  individuals  and  companies 
having  tracts  of  land  of  their  own  to  sell. 

3.  The  cooperative  efforts  of  groups  of  people  aiming 
to  form  colonies  for  themselves,  or  to  increase  the  member- 
ship of  those  already  established. 

Taking  up  each  of  these  efforts  and  examining  them  in 
the  light  of  their  results,  we  shall  discover  where  they 
have  succeeded  and  where  failed,  and  be  able  intelligently 
to  discuss  new  plans  adapted  to  the  changed  conditions 
which  are  exerting  marked  influences  both  West  and  East. 


172  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

II. 

The  work  done  by  railroad  immigration  departments, 
and  by  the  business  org^anizations  of  many  cities  and 
States,  has  been  vastly  beneficial.  It  is  difficult  to  imagine 
what  the  West  would  be  today  if  the  result  of  this  ag- 
g^ressive  influence  were  suddenly  subtracted  from  the  sum 
of  our  achievement.  What  a  wonderfully  interesting: 
library  one  would  have  if  one  might  gather  all  the  books, 
pamphlets,  magazines  and  newspapers  which  have  issued 
from  these  sources  I  What  a  gallery,  if  one  might  collect 
all  the  photographs,  maps  and  other  illustrations  I  When 
to  these  advertising  devices  we  add  the  influence  of  tem- 
porary exhibits  at  numerous  fairs,  at  home  and  abroad,  we 
g'et  a  faint  conception  of  what  has  been  done  for  us  by 
those  tireless  and  ardent  workers  for  the  West.  Still, 
their  work  has  been  chiefly  educational  rather  than  pro- 
ductive of  direct  results.  When  we  have  given  them  their 
full  meed  of  praise  it  remains  to  ask  ourselves  what  are 
their  limitations  when  considered  from  the  standpoint  of 
the  actual  organization  and  direction  of  the  stream  of  set- 
tlement for  which  our  thousand  Western  valleys  are  wait- 

ingr^ 
The  local  Chamber  of  Commerce  has  everywhere  become 

a  permanent  institution,  only  a  little  less  essential  than  the 
school  system  itself.  Its  secretary  is,  first  of  all,  indis- 
pensable as  a  statistician.  Without  him  the  community 
would  be  quite  powerless  to  measure  its  prog:ress  or  to  take 
account  of  its  growing  needs.  He  is  indispensable  again 
as  the  ready  correspondent  of  the  outside  public  inquiring: 
for  homes  or  investments.  Finally,  he  is  worth  all  he  costs 
as  a  perennial  source  of  inspiration  to  his  own  locality. 
Without  him  the  tree  of  prog:ress  would  wither  at  its  roots 
and  the  stream  of  faith  dry  up  at  its  sources.  So  also  the 
railroad  immigration  department  supplies  a  permanent 
need,  since  no  other  agency  can  deal  officially  with  the 
very  important  matter  of  transportation  in  its  relation  to 
settlers. 

It  still  remains  to  inquire  whether  these  semi-public  in- 
strumentalities serve  our  needs  in  getting  settlers.  They 
do  not,  except  to  a  very  limited  extent.  They  can  supply 
g'eneral  literature  and  find  the  g:eneral  financial  support  for 
effective  advertising  done  through  responsible  newspapers 
and  magazines.  Beyond  this  point  they  cannot  go  effect- 
ively.  When  they  undertake  to  supply  the  vast  amount  of 
specific  information  required  in  the  successful  organization 
of  colonies  they  fail  to  meet  the  public  demand.  The  time 
has  come  when  scientific  methods  are  required  in  this  de- 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  173 

partment.  The  work  in  hand  is  not  booming,  but  build- 
ing. It  is  serious  work,  calling  for  the  use  of  trained  in- 
telligence. That  is,  of  intelligence  widely  informed  in 
this  particular  field. 

When  a  man  wants  to  erect  an  elaborate  building  he 
first  sends  for  an  architect,  who  is  not  only  capable  of  pre- 
paring the  general  design,  but  understands  all  classes  of 
material  which  will  be  used  in  construction  and  who  knows 
the  relations  of  the  various  contractors  and  groups  of  arti- 
zans  to  the  completed  whole.  While  any  enterprising  man 
may  point  out  the  need  and  advantages  of  such  a  building, 
and  even  indicate  a  good  site  in  a  general  way,  a  different 
sort  of  trained  intelligence  is  required  to  work  out  the  de- 
tails, to  lay  a  safe  foundation,  and  to  evolve  a  superstruc- 
ture which  shall  meet  all  the  demands  of  utility  and 
beauty. 

Within  their  well  defined  spheres  the  semi-public  agen- 
cies which  have  done  so  much  for  us  in  the  past,  will  con- 
tinue to  perform  useful  service  in  the  future.  But  if  we 
can  enlist  no  other  influences  in  the  work  of  colonization 
our  progress  will  continue  to  be  slow,  painful,  and  marked 
with  many  blunders. 

III. 

The  private  efforts  of  individuals  and  companies  having 
land  of  their  own  to  sell  are  easier  of  analysis.  Speaking 
broadly,  this  method  has  been  disappointing  alike  to  the 
sellers  and  to  the  buyers.  Looked  at  as  a  means  of  colo- 
nizing the  whole  great  West,  it  is  simply  archaic.  The 
mighty  elements  which  enter  into  the  labor  of  Twentieth 
Century  colonization  do  not  lend  themselves  to  the  control 
of  puity  individual  efforts. 

In  certain  parts  of  the  West — notably  in  the  orange- 
growing  districts  of  Southern  California  and  the  prune- 
growing  neighborhood  of  Santa  Clara — some  good  work 
has  been  done  in  this  way.  The  swarm  of  real  estate 
agents  conspicuous  in  every  Western  town  generally  in- 
cludes a  few  persons  who  conduct  a  successful  business 
with  homeseekers  finding  their  way  to  such  localities.  But 
when  we  look  over  the  entire  Western  half  continent  and 
candidly  consider  the  results  of  these  private  efforts,  rang- 
ing all  the  way  from  those  of  the  newest  real  estate  agent 
to  those  of  the  strongest  and  richest  companies,  we  must 
pronounce  them  a  failure— dismal,  irretrievable.  Indeed, 
the  fact  is  notorious.  It  is  not  desirable  to  mention  names 
or  specific  localities.  But,  in  a  general  way,  this  line  of 
effort  has  led  to  the  same  unsatisfactory  result  in  the  San 
Joaquin  and  the  Sacr9.mento,  in  Eastern  Washington  and 
Southern  Idaho,  in   Utah  and  Colorado,  in  Arizona  and 


II 
II 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  1^5 

New  Mexico — wherever  it  has  been  applied  to  the  settle- 
ment of  irrigated  lands.  The  conclusive  condemnation  of 
this  method  may  be  read  in  the  returns  of  the  last  census. 
It  has  simply  failed  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  times.  When- 
ever the  result  has  been  otherwise,  the  fact  has  been  due 
to  unusual  local  conditions. 

The  most  striking  feature  in  the  history  of  these  private 
efforts  is  the  fact  that  where  it  has  approached  most  nearly 
to  success  it  has  been  associated  with  an  organized  colony 
plan,  real  or  pretended.  On  the  other  hand,  where  the 
prospectus  has  made  no  mention  of  industrial  and  social 
organization,  but  dealt  only  with  the  mere  material  con- 
siderations, the  financial  returns  have  seldom  been  suffi- 
cient to  repay  the  cost  of  the  effort,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
value  of  the  property  conveyed.  To  put  it  in  a  word, 
those  who  have  tried  to  appear  as  builders  have  been  far 
more  successful  than  mere  boomers.  Men  who  pride 
themselves  on  being  **  hard-headed  and  practical"  dispute 
this  luminous  truth,  but  they  may  find  their  answer  in  that 
interesting  and  enlightening  literary  work  known  as  the 
Twelfth  Census. 

IV. 

Of  the  three  distinct  agencies  which  have  had  to  do  with 
the  colonization  of  irrigated  lands,  the  cooperative  efforts 
have  been  by  far  the  most  successful  in  themselves  and  the 
most  influential  in  shaping  Western  civilization.  This 
remains  true  after  making  due  allowance  for  failures.  The 
failures  have  been  small  and  of  merely  local  effect ;  the 
successes  have  been  large  and  of  far-reaching  influence. 
In  saying  this  no  reference  is  intended  to  a  few  scattered 
communistic  undertakings  which  have  been  made  at  various 
time  and  places  and  have  uniformly  failed.  While  com- 
munism is  always  cooperative,  cooperation  is  not  neces- 
sarily communistic,  nor  is  it  usually  so  in  this  country. 

The  great  examples  of  cooperative  colonization  are  found 
in  the  history  of  Greeley,  Colorado,  of  Anaheim  and 
Riverside,  California,  and  of  the  Mormon  settlements  in 
Utah,  Idaho,  Colorado,  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  In  none 
of  these  cases  was  there  any  attempt  at  common  ownership 
of  the  land,  but  in  all  of  them  the  irrigation  works  were 
treated  as  a  public  utiMty  and  owned  by  the  entire  com- 
munity of  farmers.  In  none  of  them  has  the  hope  of  great 
financial  gains  been  held  out  as  the  ideal  to  be  sought,  but 
in  all  of  them  the  desire  to  have  independent  homes,  to 
live  among  congenial  people,  and  to  be  sure  of  a  comfort- 
able living  has  furnished  the  moving  impulse.  With  the 
single  exception  of  Riverside,  all  made  the  policy  of  diver- 


176  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

sified  farming:  the  leading:  principle  of  their  industrial  life. 
All  grouped  their  homes  in  villagfe  centers,  thoug:h  as  the 
settlements  expanded  far  beyond  their  original  limits  houses 
sprung:  up  in  the  outside  country,  except  in  the  case  of  the 
Mormons  who  have  always  adhered  very  closely  to  the 
villag:e  plan.  In  all  these  g:reat  settlements  cooperation  is 
today  more  extensively  used  than  it  was  at  the  beg:inning:, 
with  the  exception  of  Anaheim.  This  exception  is  due  to 
the  fact  that  the  first  improvements  made  there,  not  only 
on  the  irrigation  canal  but  also  on  the  farms  and  village 
homes,  were  done  in  cooperation.  This  plan  was  followed 
in  order  that  the  majority  of  colonists  might  remain  at 
their  business  in  San  Francisco  until  the  land  had  been 
made  self-sustaining. 

The  consequences  arising  from  these  famous  cooperative 
settlements  present  a  striking  contrast  to  the  meager  and 
unhappy  results  of  private  eiforts  in  the  same  field. 
Greeley  led  the  agricultural  development  of  the  whole  east- 
ern slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Drawing  its  member- 
ship from  that  marvelous  host,  the  readers  of  the  New 
York  Tribune  of  Horace  Greeley's  day,  it  colored  the  intel- 
lectual and  social  life  of  Colorado.  It  established  not  only 
the  highest  standards  of  farming  methods,  but  the  best 
ideals  of  civic  life.  From  that  first  splendid  schoolhouse 
— reared  in  the  midst  of  new-plowed  lands,  but  worthy  of 
a  New  England  town  with  a  hundred  years  behind  it — and 
from  the  animated  debating  club  in  Colony  Hall,  went 
forth  the  moral  influences  that  made  the  agricultural  life 
of  Colorado  what  it  is.  The  pioneer  settlement  quickly 
spread  in  all  directions,  crossing  the  boundary  of  Nebraska 
and  Wyoming.  Wherever  water  could  be  had,  the  finest 
class  of  settlers  came  to  build  their  homes,  attracted  by 
the  fame  of  Greeley. 

Anaheim  and  Riverside  did  for  Southern  California 
what  Greelej*^  did  for  Colorado.  They  established  exam- 
ples of  rural  life  unknown  before  in  any  part  of  the  world. 
The  inspiration  which  the  public  took  from  them  made 
possible  the  settlement  of  wide  areas  which  no  one  had 
dreamed  of  occupying  before.  These  pioneers  were  real 
home-builders  and  infused  a  spirit  into  the  colonization  of 
the  Southern  valleys  which  does  not  breathe  in  the  cir- 
culars of  land  companies  and  cannot  be  manufactured  in 
railroad  offices.  The  spirit  of  cooperation  in  which  they 
were  founded  led  logically  to  the  fruit  exchange  of  today. 

In  just  the  same  way  the  Mormons  conquered  the  arid 
valleys  of  Utah  and  the  surrounding  States.  They  were 
never  boomers,  but  builders  always.  And  the  corner-stone 
in  all  their  building  is  cooperation.     Leave  that  out  and 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  177 

the  whole  vast  structure  would  fall  into  hopeless  ruin. 
Public  Opinion  ascribes  their  success  to  religfious  zeal,  but 
public  opinion  mistakes  the  effect  for  the  cause.  It  is  easy 
to  make  a  man  religious  and  to  induce  him  to  subscribe  to 
almost  any  creed,  if  you  fill  his  stomach  three  times  a  day, 
if  you  give  him  a  home  when  he  is  homeless,  if  you  make 
him  a  partner  in  store,  factory  and  bank,  if  you  supply  him 
with  pleasant  social  surroundings.  In  Utah  it  is  not  the 
church  that  sustains  the  industrial  system.  It  is  the  in- 
dustrial system  that  sustains  the  church. 

Our  conclusions,  then,  are  these :  That  local  business 
organizations  and  railroad  companies  will  continue  to 
exert  a  good  influence  within  their  restricted  spheres  ;  that 
private  and  company  efforts  cannot  hope  to  accomplish 
more  in  the  future  than  they  are  doing  now,  which  is  little 
or  nothing  ;  that  the  methods  of  cooperative  colonization 
have  furnished  the  colossal  successes  of  the  past — a  verdict 
from  which  there  is  no  appeal.  It  is  along  the  latter  line 
that  we  lii^y  look  for  the  solution  of  our  problem  in  the 
f uturp: .' -  But  how  ? 

That  is  another  story.  W.  E.  S. 

[to  be;  continukd.] 


One  Acre  Better  Than  10,000. 

ff  N  a  tour  of  the  Sacramento  Valley  the  writer  was  shown 
I  over  a  number  of  famous  large  estates,  ranging  from 
5,000  to  100,000  acres,  but  the  estate  which  struck  him 
as  altogether  the  most  interesting  and  hopeful  of  all  he 
saw  in  that  splendid  valley  consisted  of  just  one  acre. 
This  is  the  irrigated  '*farm"  of  Mr.  Samuel  Cleeks  at 
Orland,  Glenn  county. 

In  the  Sacramento  Valley  irrigation  is  not  fashionable, 
though  nature  has  favored  it  with  a  wonderful  water  sup- 
ply. For  a  generation  farmers  have  raised  wheat  by  de- 
pendence on  the  rainfall.  Their  farms  are  very  large,  and 
they  do  not  always  take  kindly  to  the  suggestion  of  irriga- 
tion and  subdivision.  Mr.  Cleeks'  little  place  is  in  the 
midst  of  these  great  farms,  many  of  which  have  now 
passed  out  of  the  hands  of  their  former  owners  as  a  result 
of  mortgage  foreclosure.  I  found  it  an  oasis  of  prosperity 
in  a  desert  of  despair.  When  the  proprietor  told  me  that 
he  had  supported  himself  and  wife  for  thirty  years  on  that 
single  acre  of  irrigated  land,  and  when  his  neighbors  in- 
formed me  that  he  was  one  of  the  men  in  the  little  town 
who  always  had  money  to  loan  on  good  security  or  to  do- 
nate to  a  worthy  cause,  I  marveled  much  and  had  an  im- 
mediate desire  to  know  just  how  he  had  used  his  land  to 


178  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

produce  such  a  result.  Mr.  Thomas  Brown,  Secretary  of 
the  Lemon  Home  Colony,  took  the  trouble  to  obtain  and 
send  me  the  following  exact  information  : 

Bam  and  corral  space,  75x75  feet ;  rabbit  hutch,  25x25  feet ;  house 
and  porches,  30x30  feet ;  two  windmill  towers,  16x16  feet  each; 
garden,  46x94  feet;  blackberries,  16x90  feet;  strawberries,  65x90  feet; 
citrus  nursery,  90x98  feet,  in  which  there  are  2300  trees  budded  ;  one 
row  of  dewberries,  100  feet  long ;  4  apricot  trees ;  2  oak  trees  ;  3  peach 
trees ;  6  fig  trees  ;  10  locust  trees  ;  30  assorted  roses  ;  20  assorted 
geraniums ;  12  lemon  trees,  bearing,  which  are  seven  years  old ; 
lime  tree,  9  years  old  and  bearing,  from  which  were  sold  last  year  160 
dozen  limes ;  8  t>earing  orange  trees  ;  4  breadfruit  trees ;  5  pome- 
granate trees  ;  one  patch  of  bamboo  ;  3  calla  lilies  ;  4  prune  trees ;  3 
blue  gum  trees  ;  6  cypress  trees ;  4  grapevines ;  1  Bnglish  ivy  ;  2 
honeysuckles ;  one  seed  bed  ;  one  violet  bed  ;  1  sage  bed  ;  2  tomato 
vines,  which  are  in  bloom  (December  2) ;  13  stands  of  bees. 

Mr.  Cleeks  informed  me  that  from  the  foregoing"  sources 
he  has  no  difficulty  in  realizing  a  comfortable  living  and 
putting  $400  dollars  aside  each  year.  If  the  same  could  be 
said  of  the  average  wheat  grower,  farming  thousands  of 
acres  without  irrigation,  the  condition  in  the  Sacramento 
Valley  would  be  very  different  from  what  it  is.  As  the 
matter  stands  today  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  one  irri- 
gated acre  in  the  Sacramento  Valley  returns  a  larger  net 
profit  than  10,000  acres  without  irrigation.  To  be  sure, 
Mr.  Cleeks  owes  a  part  of  his  prosperity  to  the  folly  of  his 
neighbors  whom  he  supplies  with  oranges  and  lemons, 
peaches,  apricots,  berries  and  sundry  other  luxuries.  That, 
however,  is  one  of  the  striking  advantages  of  irrigation, 
since  it  permits  of  intensive  and  diversified  cultivation. 

From  a  physician  who  has  recently  settled  in  Utah  I 
have  the  following  interesting  budget  of  suggestions  along 
the  same  line  of  thought : 

Smai«i,  Farming  for  Wombn. 

I  have  long  thought  that  half  an  acre  ought  to  support  many  a 
poor  widow  with  children,  who  does  not  wish  to  marry  again. 

In  1865,  without  irrigation,  in  Uliilois,  I  raised  all  the  vegetables  a 
family  of  four  needed,  and  had  many  to  give  away,  on  a  plot  of 
ground  20x25  feet,  just  one-ei^hty-seventh  of  an  acre.  I  had  also 
from  it  18  squashes  for  winter  and  4  quarts  of  lima  beans.  It  was 
my  first  experience.  I  am  convinced  I  could  double  that,  with  irri- 
gation. I  have  l)een  here  four  months,  and  am  surprised  at  the 
Mormon  success.  They  deserve  it.  But  I  fear  that  more  than  half 
the  water  is  wasted.  If  I  were  to  start  a  colony  for  poor  people  I 
would  tolerate  no  trees  that  did  not  bear  fruit  or  nuts.  There  are 
pear  trees  here  that  are  as  large  and  shady  as  our  useless  Lombardy 
poplars.  Women  ought  to  raise  fruit,  as  a  rule  ;  they  are  not  strong 
enough  for  farm  work. 

I  see  no  reason  why  half  an  acre  should  not  support  a  family.  In 
Iowa,  on  a  plot  of  ground  about  50  x  100,  products  were  raised  which, 
besides  furnishing  all  the  fruit  a  family  of  four  used,  canned  for 
winter  and  sold  to  the  neighbors,  left  a  balance  to  be  sent  fifty  miles 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  179 

to  market  and  sold  for  $35 ;  and  this  was  done  by  a  one-armed^  man, 
who  was  unable  to  work  much,  and  on  less  than  one*eig^hth]of  an 
acre. 

Here,  in  Salt  Lake,  on  a  plot  ISz  30  feet,  very  poorly  irrigated,  be- 
cause it  is  my  first  experience,  I  raised  all  the  summer  vegetables  a 
family  of  four  used,  and  had  many  to  give  away.  This  was  less 
than  one-eightieth  of  an  acre.  One  plum  tree,  two  inches  in  diam- 
eter, has  1,000  plums  on  it.  In  our  front  yard  are  twelve  useless 
shade  trees  that  might  wisely  be  replaced  with  fruit  trees.  You 
speak  of  the  population  that  can  be  supported  by  wise  management. 
If  one  acre  can  give  a  living  to  a  family,  392  families,  1,000  persons 
(or  possibly  1,568),  can  be  provided  for  on  every  square  mile  i 

My  idea  is  that  surplus  products  should  pay  for  pasture  and  feed 
for  a  cow,  which  also  should  be  a  source  of  income  besides.  If  poor 
women  would  work  out  of  doors,  instead  of  using  needle,  they  would 
be  healthier  and  happier.   You  see  I  look  toward  colonising  the  poor. 

H.  Durham. 


California  Water  Laws 

fALIFORNIA  is  a  State  requiring  irrigation  to  sup- 
port a  dense  population  in  comfort  and  prosperity. 
There  is  far  more  land  than  water.  Land  which 
can  be  irrigated  is  ten  times  as  valuable  as  that  which 
cannot.  Hence,  to  have  water  justly  apportioned  among 
the  largest  possible  number  of  users  becomes  one  of  the 
most  precious  of  human  rights.  Successor  failure  in  doing 
this  must  measure  the  extent  of  future  growth,  the  quality 
of  civilization,  the  prosperity  of  all  our  people,  reaching 
to  generations  unborn. 

The  two  great  features  underlying  all  irrigation  law  are 
those  touching  appropriation  and  distribution.  If  we  are 
to  have  anything  but  anarchy — anything  but  the  rule  of 
force,  physical,  mental  or  financial — there  must  be  some 
form  of  just  and  orderly  administration  to  supervise  the 
original  taking  and  perpetual  use  of  water.  There  is  no 
semblance  of  such  administration  in  California  and  most 
other  Western  States.  The  law  of  appropriation  is  so 
loose  as  to  furnish  practically  no  safeguards  for  the  rights 
it  originates.  As  to  distribution,  there  are  no  laws  what- 
ever. 

What  are  the  practical  results  of  these  conditions  ? 
What  did  the  United  States  government  find  when, 
through  its  body  of  experts,  it  brought  the  history  of  the 
principal  streams  of  California  under  the  searchlight  of 
scientific  investigation  ?  These  questions  will  be  sifted 
to  the  bottom  in  early  numbers  of  this  magazine.  And  an 
extraordinary  exposure  of  pitiable  conditions  it  will  be. 


180 

Rochdale  Co-operation  in  Cali- 
fornia 

MY  F'mOF.  D.  T.   FOWLKM. 

fOOPERATION  is  the  most  interesting:,  and  in  the 
opinion  of  its  friends,  the  most  hopeful,  influence  in 
the  economic  life  of  the  Pacific  Coast  in  this  morn- 
ing- of  the  twentieth  century.  Its  methods  and  advantages 
in  connection  with  the  sale  and  distribution  of  the  various 
fruit  crops  are  well  understood,  but  there  is  as  yet  no  very 
general  appreciation  of  the  important  work  which  is  being: 
done  by  a  system  of  local  stores  with  a  common  wholesale 
center  in  San  Francisco.  The  failure  of  past  attempts  in 
this  line  may  have  prejudiced  the  public  against  this  form 
of  effort.  And  j'et  is  it  not  just  as  desirable  that  the 
farmers  and  townspeople  of  California  should  unite  in  the 
purchase  of  their  supplies  as  that  they  should  organize  and 
combine  for  the  marketing  of  their  products  ?  The  suc- 
cessful business  man  realizes  that  in  order  to  succeed  he 
must  not  only  sell  his  goods  to  advantag'e,  but  that  he  must 
also  buy  as  economically  and  shrewdly  as  possible.  Coop- 
eration is  merely  a  matter  of  plain,  common-sense  business 
engaged  in  by  a  number  of  people  of  similar  interests. 

To  understand  the  Rochdale  movement  in  California,  we 
must  go  back  nearly  sixty  years  to  a  little  town  in  Eng- 
land and  there  find  the  seed  which  has  been  wafted  over 
the  world  to  take  root  in  the  soil  of  many  different  nations. 

I. 

STORY  OF  THE   ROCHDALE   PIONEERS. 


In  1844  twenty-eight  poor  weavers  in  Rochdale,  Eng- 
land, established  **the  Society  of  Equitable  Pioneers.'* 
They  had  little  capital,  save  courage  and  a  good  idea.  In- 
deed their  poverty  was  so  extreme  that  many  of  them  could 
only  pay  the  pound  required  for  membership  by  reg:ular 
assessments  of  two  pennies  per  week.  Thus  they  were 
able  to  start  their  little  store  in  Toad  lane,  Rochdale,  Dec. 
21,  1844.  The  **  opening"  was  accomplished  in  the  presence 
of  a  scoffing  crowd  who  made  loud-mouthed  predictions  of 
failure.  The  stock-in-trade  consisted  of  a  little  flour, 
bacon,  butter  and  oatmeal.  It  was  certainly  a  very  humble 
beginning. 

At  first  the  membership  grew  but  slowly,  and  it  was 
seven  years  before  the  little  shop  in  Toad  lane  was  able  to 
keep  open  for  trade  six  full  days  in  the  week.  From  the 
beginning  the  humble  cooperators  had  a  high  conception 
of  the  ethical  aspect  of  their  work.     This  was  shown  by 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  181 

the  fact  that  out  of  their  poverty  they  established  a  propa- 
ganda fund  and  proceeded  to  organize  the  work  in  neigh- 
boring towns.  Gradually  they  began  to  win  the  respect 
and,  later,  to  command  the  support  of  powerful  minds. 
Gladstone  gave  them  an  eloquent  word  of  encouragement. 
Tom  Hughes,  Thomas  Carlyle,  John  Ruskin,  and  other 
great  men  of  the  time  lent  their  influence  to  an  undertaking 
which  appealed  to  them  as  being  not  merely  good  business, 
but  good  morals  and  good  politics  as  well. 

After  twenty  years  of  struggle  and  success,  the  many 
Rochdale  stores  which  had  sprung  up  in  England  adopted 
the  method  of  the  modern  American  Trust.  Thus  in  1864 
the  Manchester  Wholesale  was  organized  and,  soon  after, 
the  Scottish  Wholesale.  It  was  by  means  of  this  masterly 
unification  of  the  many  retail  stores  into  the  Wholesales 
that  Rochdale  Cooperation  won  its  great  battle  and  ad- 
vanced to  its  present  enviable  position  in  the  world  of 
finance,  economics  and  humanitarianism. 

Now,  what  do  we  find  at  the  opening  of  the  new  century? 

We  find  that  Rochdale  Cooperation  is  doing  over  one-fifth 
of  the  distributing  trade  of  England,  and  sending  its  pur- 
chasing agents  to  all  the  great  commercial  centers  of  the 
world.  We  find  it  has  created  not  only  a  multitude  of 
stores,  but  a  far-reaching  system  of  cooperative  mills  and 
factories  which  market  their  entire  product  through  the 
system  of  retail  stores.  Is  the  business  still  growing  ? 
Yes,  in  the  last  six  months  of  1900  the  English  Wholesale 
alone  scored  a  gain  of  nearly  $45,000,000  of  business  over 
the  corresponding  period  of  the  previous  year.  That  would 
be  creditable  to  a  business  genius  like  John  Wanamaker,  or 
even  to  an  American  Trust.  Vast  business  structures — 
mills,  factories,  warehouses,  stores — have  been  erected  to 
meet  the  ever-increasing  demands  of  trade. 

But  the  Rochdale  Pioneers  would  doubtless  be  ashamed 
of  themselves  if  they  had  made  nothing  but  money.  They 
have  made  institutions.  They  have  made  better  conditions 
of  living  for  themselves  and  their  children,  for  their 
country  and  the  world.  They  have  established  libraries 
and  reading-rooms  with  every  modern  improvement.  They 
have  organized  nurseries  and  schools  for  children  ranging 
from  those  too  young  for  the  kindergarten  up  to  adults  em- 
ployed in  factories.  They  have  purchased  and  demolished 
wretched  old  tenements  and  erected  in  their  places  com- 
fortable buildings  with  all  modern  conveniences.  And 
these  monuments  stand  on  the  very  ground  where  the 
Rochdale  people  once  lived  in  squalor  and  degradation. 
They  have  built  thousands  of  pretty  cottages  for  their 
workers.   How  have  they  managed  to  do  all  this  ?   Why,  it 


182  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE, 

was  the  easiest  thing  in  the  world.  They  had  the  profits 
arising  from  the  trade  of  a  vast  population  in  all  the  neces- 
sities of  life.  These  profits  were  directed  to  the  enrich- 
ment of  the  many  rather  than  of  the  few.  That  is  the 
logical  result  of  cooperation. 

II. 

THE   FOUNDATION   ROCHDALE   PRINCIPLES. 

Those  who  have  known  of  the  failure  of  cooperative 
efforts  in  this  country — and  failure  in  this  line  is  much 
more  widely  advertised  than  success — will  naturally  think 
that  these  poor  weavers  of  Rochdale  must  have  discovered 
some  very  valuable  principles,  or  they  could  not  have 
achieved  such  astounding  results.  That  is  quite  true,  yet 
the  principles  are  simple  enough.  The  essential  features 
of  the  Rochdale  system  are  as  follows  : 

1.  One  member,  one  share,  one  vote.  Thus  no  one  man 
or  small  group  of  men  can  control  the  company  for  their 
private  benefit. 

2.  The  company  buys  and  sells  for  cash,  losing  nothing 
by  bad  debts.  Frequently  it  has  a  small  banking  depart- 
ment to  assist  members  with  loans. 

3.  All  profits  are  returned  to  members  in  proportion  to 
their  purchases,  so  that  they  get  goods  at  actual  cost. 
Goods  are  sold  at  prevailing  rates — no  cutting  of  prices. 

4.  Shares  may  be  paid  in  easy  installments,  but  every 
dollar  draws  interest  from  the  time  it  is  paid. 

5.  All  employes  get  a  fixed  salary.  There  is  no  induce- 
ment to  deceive  the  customer  in  weight  or  quality  of 
goods. 

6.  As  each  retail  store  buys  goods  of  its  own  Whole- 
sale, in  needed  quantities  and  at  lowest  rates,  it  can  do 
business  on  smaller  capital  and  at  greater  profit  than  other 
retail  stores.  The  retail  stores  are  the  stockholders  in  the 
Wholesale.  Thus  the  profits  of  the  Wholesale  are  credited 
to  the  retail,  just  as  the  profits  of  the  retail  stores  are  re- 
turned to  individual  members. 

7.  The  system  cultivates  a  strong  fraternal  feeling,  de- 
velops a  pure  moral  sentiment,  and  treats  producer  and 
consumer,  capitalist  and  transporter  with  fairness  and 
justice. 

8.  Profits  obtained  from  merchandising  are  applied  to 
the  establishment  of  factories,  to  the  building  of  city  and 
country  homes  to  be  sold  to  members  on  easy  terms,  to 
libraries,  schools  and  hospitals.  These  profits  are  con- 
stantly accumulating,  and,  as  the  Rochdale  policy  has  been 
to  use  them  systematically  to  extend  cooperation  in  busi- 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  18S 

ness  and  social  life,  the  system  is  now  immense  in  its  rami- 
fications. Lord  Rose  berry  has  referred  to  it  as  "a  State 
within  a  State." 

The  foregoing  principles  were  laid  down  more  or  less 
distinctly  in  the  original  prospectus  of  the  Rochdale 
Pioneers,  but  have  been  developed  into  a  practical  working 
philosophy  by  the  experience  of  years.  Hence,  those  who 
now  desire  to  utilize  them  have  the  good  fortune  to  be  able 
to  begin  where  the  Rochdale  Pioneers  leave  oflf — except 
that  they  do  not  "  leave  oflf "  at  all,  but  go  on  forever. 

III. 

THE   ROCHDALE   BANNER    RAISED   IN   CALIFORNIA. 

In  the  summer  of  1899  three  or  four  gentlemen,  imbued 
with  cooperative  ideas  and  familiar  with  the  triumphs  of 
the  Rochdale  system  in  England,  met  from  time  to  time  to 
discuss  ways  and  means  for  organizing  such  a  work  in 
California.  They  formed  an  association  for  propaganda^ 
naming  it  **The  Pacific  Coast  Cooperative  Union  of 
America."  The  purpose  of  the  body  was  purely  educa- 
tional. Its  first  convention  was  held  at  Oakland,  Novem- 
ber 7-8-9,  1899,  with  delegates  from  various  cooperative 
associations,  labor  exchanges,  granges,  alliances,  trades 
union  and  farmers'  clubs.  The  meeting  was  enthusiastic, 
but  studious  and  thoughtful.  It  resulted  in  a  decision  to 
federate  existing  cooperative  stores,  as  far  as  possible,  in 
the  "  Rochdale  Wholesale  Company,"  with  headquarters  in 
San  Francisco. 

The  Wholesale  was  duly  incorporated  and  opened  its 
doors  for  trade  on  January  1st,  1900.  This  and  all  similar 
stores  have  been  formed  under  the  splendid  cooperative 
laws  of  1895,  without  which  they  would  have  been  impos- 
sible. 

The  second  convention  of  the  Pacific  Coast  Union  was 
held  at  Oakland,  January  16-17-18,  1901.  Like  its  prede- 
cessor it  was  well  attended  and  enthusiastic,  and  instead  of 
listening  to  plans  and  the  expression  of  faith  and  hope, 
this  convention  had  the  immense  satisfaction  of  hearing 
reports  of  plans  adopted,  of  work  accomplished,  of  trusts 
successfully  administered,  of  many  stores  established ; 
finally,  of  a  balance-sheet  from  the  Wholesale  showing  a 
surplus  on  the  right  side  of  the  ledger. 

At  this  writing  Rochdale  stores  are  in  operation  at  the 
following  points :  Newman,  Healdsburg,  Dos  Palos, 
Kingsburg,  Oxnard,  Ferndale,  Lemoore,  Berkeley,  Altu- 
ras,  Hanford,  Santa  Barbara,  Susanville,  Lakeport,  Sati- 
coy,    Santa  Paula,   Fresno,   Upper  Lake  (Lake  county), 


184  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

Adin,  Potter  Valley,  Selma,  Modesto,  Sacramento,  Santa 
Rosa,  Pomona,  Ventura,  Calistoga,  La  Grande,  Los  Banos, 
Redlands,  San  Francisco,  Oakland  (two),  and  Reno,  Ne- 
vada. 

A  score  of  places  are  calling:  for  org^anizers  to  assist 
them  in  the  establishment  of  new  stores,  but  there  is  a 
lack  of  trained  men  for  the  work.  The  harvest  is  ripe, 
but  the  laborers  are  few.  Only  knowledge  of  the  move- 
ment is  needed  to  bring  thousands  to  see  the  benefits  to 
come  to  them  by  membership  in  some  Rochdale  company. 
To  supply  this  need,  as  well  as  to  teach  cooperation  in 
general,  a  monthly  publication  called  "  The  Cooperative 
Journal,"  is  issued  at  Oakland. 

Readers  will  ask  :  *'How  many  of  the  stores  started  by  this 
movement  have  failed  so  far  ?  "  Not  one  has  failed.  One 
has  been  withdrawn,  and  some,  owing  to  management  and 
environment,  have  been  more  prosperous  than  others.  But 
profits  have  been  sufficient  to  pay  interest  on  capital  in- 
vested in  shares  and,  besides  that,  to  return  to  members  as 
high  as  fifteen  per  cent  on  their  purchases.  The  average 
amount  returned  on  purchases  has  been  about  ten  per  cent. 
When  it  is  considered  that  membership  in  the  stores  is  yet 
meager  ;  that  working  capital  is  quite  small ;  that  boards 
of  directors  are  new  to  the  system  ;  that  some  join  .without 
the  true  spirit  of  cooperation  ;  and  that  competing  stores 
throw  all  possible  opposition  in  the  way,  the  Rochdale  co- 
operators  of  California  may  feel  justly  proud  of  the  prog- 
ress made  in  eighteen  months.  Who  can  picture  the  re-, 
suits  to  the  social  and  economic  life  of  this  Coast  if  there 
shall  come  from  this  movement  anything  approaching  the 
achievement  of  the  Rochdale  Pioneers  in  England  ? 


Pike's  Peak,  the  geographical  center  of  this  great 
arid  region,  will  become  the  hub  of  the  nation.  The  great 
peak  will  become  the  Olympus  of  a  new  age.  What  the 
Grecian  mountain  was  to  the  days  of  mythology.  Pike's 
Peak  will  be  to  the  new  day  of  liberty — around  its  base 
Golcondas  that  rival  Ophir  and  Ind,  that  eclipse  California, 
the  golden.  It  will  look  down  on  a  thousand  harvest  fields 
more  beautiful  than  the  tawny  gold  that  Helen  Hunt  saw 
in  the  changing  glories  of  plain  and  mountain  and  sunset." 
— Ex' Governor  Alva  Adams ^  of  Colorado. 


Workers  for  the  West. 

\  fit^ILS  Western  men  are  very  nearly  united  in  looking 
wTf  to  the  nation  for  larger  support  in  the  development 
of  our  resources,  it  is  well  to  appreciate  what  has 
already  been  done  and  to  be  thankful  for  such  blessings  as 
we  have.  Two  important  departments  of  the  Federal 
Government  are  engaged  in  actual  work  for  the  benefit  of 
irrigation  along  practical  lines.  The  Interior  Department 
is  dealing  with  our  problems  above  the  canal,  and  the  Agri- 
cultural Department  with  those  below  the  canal.  The 
former  works  through  the  Geological  Survey ;  the  latter 
through  a  branch  of  the  Bureau  of  Experiment  Stations 
known  as  Irrigation  Investigations.     The  representative 


J.  B.   LlPPlNCOTT. 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


of  the  Survey  in  California  is  J.  B,  Lippincott,  whose  head- 
quarters are  in  Los  Angeles,  while  Elwood  Mead  of  Wyoming 
is  the  Expert  in  Charge  of  Irrigation  Investigrations. 

Mr.  Lippincott  has  affiliated  very  closely  with  the  organ- 
ized movements  in  the  State  and  aimed  to  make  the  results 
of  his  work  of  practical  l)enefit  to  the  community.  This 
was  strikingly  shown  by  last  year's  examination  of  reser- 
voir sites  and  measurement  of  streams  in  the  valleys  of 
the  interior  and  of  the  Coast  Region.  Most  important  re- 
sults were  obtained,  and  they  will  go  far  to  guide  future 
development  of  the  water  supply,  in  connection  both  with 
storage  and  artesian  enterprise. 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  187 

Mr.  Mead,  on  his  part,  arranged  last  year  for  the  most 
important  studies  ever  made  of  the  irrigation  laws  and 
customs  of  California  and  of  the  consequences  arising 
therefrom.  As  the  forthcoming  report  on  this  subject  will 
be  thoroughly  discussed  in  these  pages  the  nature  of  this 
important  service  need  not  be  detailed  here.  Mr.  Mead  is 
the  head  of  the  new  College  of  Irrigation  established  at 
the  State  University  by  President  Wheeler,  and  has  also 
found  time  to  lecture  on  the  same  subject  at  Harvard, 
Princeton  and  other  Eastern  colleges. 


^' 


Judge  North,  founder  of  Riverside,  Cal.,  occupies  an 
enviable  place  in  Western  history.  The  results  which 
flowed  from  his  labors  are  much  wider  than  the  limits  of 
the  beautiful  community  he  founded,  yet  in  Riverside  alone 
he  and  his  associates  have  a  monument  more  beautiful  and 
lasting  than  any  that  could  be  made  of  stone  or  bronze. 


Alameda. 

^C^IKE  every  great  metropolis,  San  Francisco  is  ringed  round 
l^n  with  smaller  cities  and  towns  whose  chief  function  is  to  fur- 
^""-^  niah  homes  for  the  tens  of  thousands  who  like  to  do  business 
in  crowded  streets,  but  prefer  to  pitch  their  family  tent  in  quiet 
places.     One  of  the  most  charming  and  satisfying'  of  these  is  Ala- 

The  site  of  Alameda  la  a  long-,  low  peninsula  forming  part  of  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  directly  across  the  bay 
from  the  city  of  San  Francisco,  and  about  six  miles  distant  from  it. 
The  peninsula— wholly  within  the  city  limits— ia  a   little  over  four 


miles  long  and  from  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  wide.  Its  greatest 
elevation  above  tide-water  is  twenty-nine  feet.  A  tidal  canal,  long 
projected  and  soon  to  t>e  completed,  will  cut  the  narrow  neck  con- 
necting the  peninsula  with  the  mainland  and  convert  Alameda  into 
an  island. 

On  this  site  has  been  built  up  a  city  of  about  seventeen  thousand — 
distinctively  and  all  but  exclusively  a  city  of  homes.  For  in  spite  of 
a  small  bnt  important  manufacturing  interest,  Alameda's  main 
reason  for  existence  is  to  provide  homes  for  some  thousands  of  busi- 
ness and  professional  men,  whose  work-time  is  spent  in  the  great 
and  busy  city  across  the  bay. 

The  question  of  transportation  to  and  from  San  Francisco  is,  there- 
fore, of  the  first  importance,  and  in  this  respect  little  is  left  to  be  de- 
PfaotoB.  by  C.  P.  MxgxgBot. 


190  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

sired.  There  are  two  distinct  syatems  of  rail  and  ferry  routes,  the 
"broad  grange "  and  the  "narrow  gauge",  both  operated  by  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad  Company.  The  two  lines  run  parallel. a 
few  blocks  apart,  along  the  length  of  the  city,  with  stations  at  short 
intervals.  No  part  of  the  city  is  more  than  a  few  moments  walk 
from  one  of  these  stations,  and  the  sixty-three  daily  trains  give  as- 
surance against  tedious  waiting.  The  time  retjutted  from  Park 
street,  Alameda,  to  San  Francisco,  is  about  forty  minutes,  of  which 
more  than  half  is  consumed  by  the  trip  across  the  Bay. 

And  just  this  trip  across  the  Bay  is  counted  by  thousands  as  one  of 
the  pleasanteat  incidents  of  the  day.     On  account  of  the  absence  of 


cold  weather  and  ice  and  snow,  the  trip  across  the  Bay  is  equally 
enjoyable  in  winter  and  in  summer. 

San  Francisco  Bay  is  called  the  finest  harbor  in  the  world,  and  the 
passengers  enjoying'  their  morning  and  evening  trip  pass  in  sight  of 
the  greatest  variety  of  shipping  to  be  found  in  any  port  on  the  earfh. 
The  United  States  Navy  has  generally  from  six  to  twelve  ships  lying 
at  anchor,  including  the  stately  battle  ships,  the  swift,  white  cruisers 
and  the  transports  engaged  in  carrying  troops  and  munitions  of  war 
t>etween  the  Pacific  Coast  and  the  Philliplne  Islands  and  China. 
Ocean  greyhounds  of  the  Trans-Pacific  steamship  companies  plying 
between  Northern  and  Southern  Pacific  Coast  ports,  Japan,  China, 
the  East  Indies,  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  Australia  are  to  be  seen  ; 
and  the  deep-water  sailing  vessels  from  all  of  the  ports  of  Europe, 
Asia,  Africa,  North  and  South  America  are  always  in  evidence. 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


At  tub  Water's  Edge. 

The  cost  of  this  beautiful  ride,  by  boat  and  rail,  is  ten  cents  for  a 
aing-le  trip,  or  monthly  commutation  tickets  may  be  bought  for  $3. 
It  will  be  seen  that  this  low  rate,  and  the  frequent  train  service,  put 
the  Alameda  "  suburbanite  "  at  least  on  equal  footing-  in  these  re- 
spects with  the  man  who  makes  his  home  in  San  Francisco  itself, 
while  in  many  other  respects  (as  will  l>e  agreed  by  all  those  elect  and 
fore-ordained  to  dwell  in  suburbs)  the  comparison  is  much  in  favor  of 
the  smaller  place. 

The  most  startling  feature  of  Alameda's  transportation  facilities — 
not  indeed  to  its  residents  to  whom  years  of  habitude  has  made  it  a 


A  viBw  or  T. 


ALAM£.DA.  IW 

matter  of  course,  but  to  the  nen-comer  or  visitor — is  the  fact  that 
within  the  city  limits  no  fare  is  charg-ed  on  either  of  the  steam  rail- 
roads. One  may  ride  from  one  end  of  the  city  to  the  other  abso- 
lutely without  charge  and  repeat  the  journey,  if  he  likes,  on  every 
trip  the  train  makes.  This  condition  is  not  wholly  due  to  the  disin- 
terested generosity  of  the  railroad  company,  but  to  a  provision  mad'^ 
when  its  charter  was  ori^nally  granted. 

There  is  also  a  nell-managed  electric  railroad  running  through 
Alameda  and  connecting  it  with  Oakland. 

The  climate  of  Alamcda^if  Alameda  be  allowed  to  testify — is 
well-nigh  perfect.     The  broad  and  beautiful  San  Francisco  Bay  tem- 


pers the  summer  heat,  while  the  lofty  hills  on  which  the  city  of  San 
Francisco  stands,  cut  off  the  ocean  winds  which  would  othemise  at 
times  come  with  somewhat  of  harshness.  In  fact,  there  isadifFerence 
in  climate  between  Alameda  and  San  Francisco  which  forces  itself 
upon  the  attention  of  the  most  casual  observer,  and  just  this  differ- 
ence is  the  reason  why  many  choose  to  live  in  the  smaller  rather 
than  in  the  larger  city.  No  snow  ever  falls  in  Alameda,  and  the 
winter  lawns  and  gardens,  with  their  profusion  of  roses  and  other 
flowers  set  among  tropical  palms  and  rare  and  delicate  shrubs  and 
trees,  are  the  pride  and  delight  of  the  dwellers  there,  and  a  constant 
wonder  to  visitors  from  less  favored  localities. 

The  deep,  rich  soil  of  the  peninsula  has  t>een  very  favorable  to  tree 
growth.  Indeed,  Alameda  means  "avenue  of  poplars",  while  ^ncjwa/, 
the  name  given  to  one  of  the  villages  when  there  were  several  vil- 


LANU    OF   SUNSHINE. 


lages  instead  of  one  city 
on  the  peninsula,  is, 
being  interpreted,  "the 
place  of  live  oaks". 
Many  of  the  native  trees 
have  of  course  t>een  sac- 
rificed in  making:  the 
city,  but  many  more, 
including  rare  and  beau- 
tiful exotics,  have  more 
than  taken  their  place. 
More  than  fifty  miles  of 
broad   macadamized 

lined  on  both  sides  with 
shade  trees,  .and  sur- 
rounding- hundreds  of 
acres  of  luxuriant  lairns 
and  gardens  now  make 
of  the  whole  city  an 
immense  park.  Indeed, 
roads  of  unusual  excel- 
lence traverse  the  whole 
country  around,  extend- 
ing east  into  the  foot- 
hills of  the  Mt.  Diablo 
range,  only  a  few  miles 
away,  and  southward 
clear  around  the  lower- 
end  of  the  Bay,  and  (by 
way  of  San  Jos^) 
back  to  San  Francisco. 
This  latter  route— just  a 
hundred  miles — is  a  fav- 
orite TTith  long-distance 
bicycle  racers.  These 
excellent  roads  natur- 
ally make  driving  a  fa- 
It  may  be  noted,  in 
passing,  that  the  Ala- 
meda Driving  Associa- 
tion has  a  speed  track 
which  horsemen  every- 
where   admit  to   be,   in 

passed  in  the  country. 

The  Bay  is,  of  course, 
a  dominating  factor  in 
determining    the      pas- 


ALAhAEDA. 


Thb  Encis&l  Yacht  Club. 

timea  of  Alameda.  There  are  two  yacht  clubs — the  California,  de- 
voted atrictly  to  yachting,  with  seventy-five  or  more  yachts  in  com- 
mission, and  the  Elncinal,  whose  beautiful  club-house  on  the  Bay  at- 
tracts its  members  to  boat  or  bathe  or  bowl.  The  Alameda  Boat 
Club  intends  to  hold  its  own  at  all  times  in  anything-  from  "sing-lea" 
to  "eights."  And  strung  along  the  miles  of  water-front  are  many 
private  boat  and  bath  houses. 

A  notable  factor  in  the  social  and  intellectual  life  of  Alameda,  is 
the  Adelphian  Club,  an  organization  of  women  not  yet  five  year*  old. 


ALAMEDA.  199 

which  lotiff  since  reached  its  membership  limit  of  two  huadred  and 
fifty  and  has  constantly  a  lengthy  "waiting-  list."  The  object  of 
this  club  ii  primarily  the  promotion  of  study  among-  women,  and  its 
chief  pride  is  the  substantia)  work  done  in  its  various  sections. 
These  include  Enfrlish  Literature.  French,  German,  Spanish.  Cur- 
rent Events,  Decorative  Art,  U.  S.  History,  New  Books,  Music,  Art 
History  and  Physical  Culture.  A  Civic  Section  has  lately  been  es- 
tablished, through  which  the  Club  expects  to  come  into  closer  touch 
with  municipal  affairs  and  make  itself  of  practical   benefit   to   the 

The  municipal  government  of  Alameda  is  particularly  noteworthy 
as  being  free  from  partisan  politics.  The  genus  "  professional  poli- 
tician "  is  conspicuous  by  his  absence,  and  his  place  on  the  various 
governing  bodies  is  taken  by  property  owners,  elected  by  reason  of 
their  fitness  to  administer  affairs,  not  for  the  advantage  of  any  ring 
or  clique,  but  for  the  interest  of  the  city  as  a  whole.  The  chief  of 
these  bodies  is  the  Municipal  Board  of  Trustees,  of  five  members, 
elected  for  four  years  and  serving  without  pay.  The  President  of 
this  Board,  chosen  by  its  members,  is  the  citizen  of  Alameda  who 
corresponds  most   nearly  to 


CHKIST    CHUICH,    AI.AHBDA. 


200  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

Alameda,  is  particularly  praud  of  her  school  system,  and  with  reason. 
Yet  she  is  not  satisfied,  taut  is  continually  strivings  to  make  her 
provision  for  training-  her  young  people  a  little  l>etter. 

The  Board  of  Health,  composed  of  five  physicians  and  appointing 
a  Health  Officer,  a  Veterinary  Inspector  and  an  Inspector  of  Health 
arid  Drainage,  has  charge  of  the  sanitary  affairs  of  the  city.  How 
admirably  it  has  attended  to  its  duties  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact 
that    theiannual  death    rate    of    Ala- 

meda is  only  about  nine   per  thousand — 

one  of  the  lowest  re- 


The  City  Hall. 

sewage  that  comes  as  close  as  possible  to  perfection,  and  a  magnifi- 
cent supply  of  artesian  water,  are  factors  in  producing  this  desirable 
state  of  things. 

Aa  illustration  of  the  attention  paid  to  the  details  which  affect 
the  health  of  the  community,  the  watchfulness  over  the  char- 
acter of  the  milk  supply  may  be  instanced.  Bvery  dairy  supplying 
milk  to  the  city  is  registered  and  subjected  to  frequent  tests  and  in- 
spections. The  result  of  these  is  recorded  on  a  btacktioard  in  the 
City  Hall,  and  if  any  citizen  wants  to  know  how  his  milkman  feeds 
his  cows,  or  what  percentage  of  butter-fats  is  in  his  milk,  all  that  is 
necessary  is  to  go  look  at  the  blackboard.  Of  course,  nothing  like  a 
diseased  herd,  a  tilthy  dairy,  or  "doctored"  milk  is  tolerated  at  all. 

The  free  public  library,  with  25,000  volumes  on  its  shelves,  is  in 


ALAMEDA.  201 

charge  of  another  Board  of  Trustees— also  of  five  members.  It  oc- 
cupies at  present  a.  part  of  the  city  hall.  One  of  the  Carneg-ie  gifts 
— $35,000— was  intercepted  by  Alameda,  and  a  new  library  building 
mil  soon  rise  on  a  lot  already  set  aside  for  that  purpose. 

Alameda  owns  its  own 
□ishes  light  for  the  street 
consumerH  at  low  rate. 

The  bonded  indebtednc 
valuation  of  $12,000,000.  ...  _, 

the  city  is  considerably  in  excess  of  its  entire  debt.     The   tax  i 
last  year  was  31.20. 

The  residents  of  Alameda  do  not  include   many  of  large  wealth. 


There  are  few  mansions  here—and  no  slums.  The  bulk  of  her  citi- 
zens are  business  and  professional  men,  of  moderate  income,  or  well 
salaried.  Her  growth  has  been  marked  by  no  booms,  but  has  been 
steady,  clean  and  healthful.  The  limits  of  space— about  22,000  acres 
including  the  whole  peninsula— prevent  the  possibility  of  its  gfowing 
to  great  size,  but  there  is  stilt  ample  room  and  cordial  welcome  for 
thousands  more  of  such  citizens  as  she  now  has.  Handsome  and  well 
built  modem  homes,  well  located  and  on  large  lota,  can  be  bought 
at  from  S2,500  to  S4.000,  and  numerous  building  and  loan  associations- 
are  ready  to  help  the  home-seeker  acquire  bis  home.  The  certain 
great  growth  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  consequent  pressure  of  popu- 
lation, the  ideal  climatic  conditions  in  both  summer  and  winter,  and 
the  other  factors  going  to  make  Alameda  so  desirable  a  place  of  resi- 
dence, seem  to  assure  a  steady  increase  in  the  value  of  real  estate. 
One  does  not  buy  a  home  for  speculative  purposes,  but  it  is  as  well  to- 
feel  assured,  when  buying,  that  it  is  not  likely  to  lose  in  value. 

The  Alameda  Boaid  of  Trade,  with  a  membership  of  about  125- 
local  busioeaa  men,  is  active  in  matters  concerning  the  growth  and. 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


welfare  of  the  commuuitr,  and  is  always  ^lad  to  receive  and  answer 
inquiries  concerning'  it. 

A  large  tract  of  land  fronting'  on  the  deep  water  of  the  Bay,  access- 
ible by  ships  and  railroads,  has  been  bonded  by  an  electric  corpora- 
tion. This  corporation  has  an  immense  electric  generating  plant  in 
the  foot  hills,  utilising  the  abundant  water  powers  with  never-failing 
sources  from  the  snow-capped  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  Land,  with 
electric  power,  will  be  sold  or  leased  to  manufacturing  concerns. 

The  Board  of  Trade  will  interest  itself  in  any  proposition  coining 
from  a  prospective  manufacturer,  and  do  anything  passible  to  fur- 
ther such  interests. 


Xhe     Land     of     Sunshine 

PUBUSHBD  MONTHI^Y   BY 

Tine  Land  of  Sunahlne  Publlalninii:  Co. 

( INCORPORATED ) 

Rooms  5,  7,  9 ;    121^  South  Broadway,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.,  U.  S.  A. 


HEADS  OP  DEPARTMENTS 

C.  M.  Davis 

Chas.  F.  Lummis 

P.  A.  Pattbe 

Chas.  a.  Moody  -  -        Snbscriptioo 


SUBSCRIPTION  RATES 


Gen.  Manager       u  ^  year  in  the  United  States,  Canada   and 
-    Editorial  Mexico. 

Business       ^ 

11.50  a  year  to  other  countries  in  the  Postal 

Union. 
Entered  at  the  Los  Angeles  Postofficeas  second-class  m&tter. 


To  Subscribers  and  Advertisers. 

OwinfiT  to  the  absence  in  the  East  of  the  editor 
of  this  mairazine,  as  well  as  to  the  removal  to 
more  convenient  quarters  of  printinflr  presses, 
etc.,  it  was  decided  to  issue  the  Auffust  and 
September  numbers  of  the  Lakd  of  Sunshine 
in  one  edition  or  ''double  number".  Each 
reader^s  subscription  and  advertiser's  contract 
will  therefore  be  extended  one  month,  so  that 
each  will  receive  the  full  number  of  copies  or 
insertions  to  which  he  is  entitled. 


Pullins:  for  the  West. 

If  there  is  any  one  publication  that  merits  the 
undivided  support  of  California  and  the  West, 
that  publication  is  the  Land  of  Sunshine  of 
l/os  A nreles,  edited  by  Chas.  P.  Lummis,  than 
whom  there  is  no  more  loyal  westerner  beneath 
the  western  skies.  For  seven  years  that  sterlinff 
maffazine  has  been  laboring  earnestly  and 
faithfully  for  the  welfare  of  the  west,  by  pro- 
claiminfT  its  resources,  championing-,  its  needs 
and  presentinff  it.  in  its  true  liffht  before  the 
world.  And  now  comes  the  announcement  that 
the  ff-ood  work  will  be  continued  more  energ-et- 
ically  and  systematically  than  ever  before. 

Beg-lnning-  with  the  July  number,  the  Land 
OF  Sunshine  will  reg-ularly  devote  some  twenty 
paflres  to  a  department  entitled  **  The  Twentieth 
Century  West . "  It  will  consist  of  an  editorial 
survey  and  commentary  of  the  hig-heHt  author- 
ity, on  "the  really  bier  things"  of  current 
progress  and  iuierest,  supplemented  by  a  great 
variety  of  contributed  articles  written  by  the 
foremost  thinkers  and  workers  of  the  West, 
under  the  editorial  supervision  of  W.  E.  Smythe. 
It  will  deal  particularly  with  the  three  g-reat 
interests  of  irrig-ation,  cooperation  and  coloni- 
zation. No  other  current  literature  now  avail- 
able can  compare  with  the  contents  of  the  de- 
partment in  practical  value  to  the  earnest  men 
and  women  who  are  creating-  the  civilization  of 
Western  America;  while  to  prospective  in- 
vestors and  homeseekers  It  will  possess  an  in- 
terest wholly  unique. 

The  department  will  not  be  dull  or  dry,  but 
full  of  interesting  ideas  and  experience.— Cor- 
ona  Courier^  July  27, 1901. 

Alameda  to  have  a  Pine  illustrated 

Article. 

Some  time  ago  the  Encinal  published  a  state- 
ment that  the  Land  op  Sunshine,  that  sterling 
Pacific  Coast  mag'azine  published  in  Los 
Ang-eles,  had  in  contemplation  the  possibility 
of  devoting"  considerable  space  in  its  {>ag-e8  to 
this  city.  It  is  gratifying  to  be  able  to  state 
that  the  forthcoming-  issue  of  the  journal  in 
question  will  devote  a  dozen  pag-es  to  an  illus- 
trated article  upon  this  city.  *•♦*** 
Contrary  to  the  usual  methods  followed  and  of 
which  all  Californians  have  become  so  weary, 
the  people  of  Alapieda  are  not  asked  to  pay  for 
the  article  in  question.  At  its  own  expense  the 
mag-azine  makes  the  illustrations,  prepares  the 
matter  and  publishes  it.  The  only  return  that 
Is  asked  is  that  as  many  of  the  people  of  the 
city  shall  become  subscribers  to  the  publication 
as  appreciate  good  literary  work. 

The  Land  of  Sunshine  has  been  established 
for  seven  years  and  now  has  a  subscription  list 
of  over  10,000.  It  g-oes  into  hundreds  of  public 
libraries  and  reading-rooms,  and  is  acknowl- 
edged to  be  the  best  mag-azine  ever  issued  on 
this  Coast. 

The  project  has  the  endorsement  and  coopera- 


tion of  the  Board  of  Trade,  as  indeed  it  should. 
Alameda  needs  advertising-,  and  this  sort  of 
work  is  advertising-  of  the  very  hig-hest  class, 
which  cannot  but  prove  beneficial.— ^/anxri/a 
EncinaL  

Honor  to  Whom  Honor  is  Due. 

In  crediting  the  fine  photographs  of  Stockton 
and  vicinity,  reproduced  in  this  mag-azine  last 
month,  to  Mr.  Tibbitts,  further  acknowledg-- 
ment  should  have  been  made  to  the  Southern 
Pacific  R.  R.  Co.,  to  whom  they  belonir  and 
throug-h  whose  courtesy  they  were  used. 


A  Popular  Resort. 

Redondo  Hotel  during  the  summer  months  be- 
comes the  social  center  of  Los  Ang-eles  and  en- 
virons. A  larg-e  number  of  prominent  society 
X>eople  are  its  regular  guests,  while  its  Saturday 
nig-ht  dances,  which  are  nearly  as  select  as  if 
they  were  by  invitation,  draw  brilliant  crowds  of 
temporary  visitors  from  surrounding  towns. 
Weekly  amateur  theatricals  and  entertain- 
ments, bowling  alleys,  tennis  courts,  g-olf 
grounds,  fishing,  boating,  etc.,  serve  to  fill  the 
hours  at  this  eleg-ant  resort. 

Attractive  and  Valuable. 

In  photographic  excellence  and  in  designing- 
of  illustrations  as  well  as  in  engraving-  and 
printing-.  The  midsummer  number  of  Sunset, 
the  official  monthly  publication  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railway  Company,  would  be  a  credit  to 
any  publication  East  or  West. 

If  Easterners  who  are  so  ready  to  seek  this 
coast  in  order  to  e<%cape  the  rig-ors  of  winter, 
but  who  submit  to  the  more  uncomfortable  and 
dang-erous  conditions  of  Eastern  June,  July 
and  August,  could  see  the  government  statistics 
of  California  for  those  ihonths,  published  in 
this  number  of  Sunset,  let  alone  the  attractive- 
ness of  California  canon  and  mountain  resorts, 
they  could  not  escape  the  conclusion  that  they 
must  simply  come  here  at  once  and  stay. 


A  Merited  Reward. 

Mr.  N.  R.  Martin  has  been  promoted  from  the 
publicity  department  of  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railway  to  the  position  of  Los  Angeles  City 
Ticket  Affent.  In  his  capable  but  unassuming 
way,  Mr.  Martin  is  climbinir  to  the  top  of  the 
railway  ladder. 


Have  you  ever  read  any  of  Sweden- 
borg*s  works  ?  If  not,  will  you  send 
me  your  address  enclosing  a  stamp  or 
two  and  I  will  mail  you  one  of  his  books 
FREE.  State  whether  you  want  it  in 
English  or  in  German. 

Adolph  Roedbr, 
80  Cleveland  St.,  Orange,  N.  J. 


BOOKS 


Anything  in  the  line  of 
Educational,  Scientific 
or  Miscellaneous  Books. 
Vestpocket  Dictionaries,  Speakers  and  Dial- 
og-ues.  Bibles  and  Religious  Books.  Text- 
books in  Spanish,  French  and  German.  School 
Books.  All  at  lowest  rate.  HUM  BOLT 
BOOK  AND  STA.  CO.,  88S  N.  Oakley  Ave., 
Chicag-o,  111. 


OCTOBER,  1901 

MORMONISM-BY  ITS  HEAD 
THE  HOOOOOSOP  WYOMING 
ON    VERSA    BUENA 


Vol.  XV,  No,  4! 


THE  LAND  OF 

SUNSHINE 


CALIFORNIA  AND  THE  WEST 

EDITED  BY  CHAS.P.  LUMMIS 


2AAAAAAAV1 


CENTS  LOS  ANCEICS        SAN  fRANCISCO 


CALIFORNIA  FRUIT  PRODUCTS 


GLACE 

stuffed  With  WALNUT  fllEATS^ 

Bishop's  Glace  Stuffed  Prunes  stand  in  3.  Class  by 
themselvea.  More  delicious  than  the  Finest  Con- 
fectionery. A  product  typical  of  California.  Many 
dealers  sell  them,  but  if  yours  does  not,  we  will 
send  you  a  full  pound  box  express  paid  for  75  cents. 

BISHOP  &   COMPANY      losAiigeles,Car. 


CALirORNIA  Crystallized  bruits 


Get    Youh    Ckystallized 
Fhuits 


1.  Maker — Twenty  or  Moke 

1,1  DiFFEKENT  KiNDS,  ALL  CaL- 
'/  IFOHNIA  PkODUCTS.    PACKED 

Assorted  in  Fancy  Boxes, 
%»^  25c..  1  ft  50c..  2fc$1.00, 
5lb  $2.25.     We  Crystallize  Fktjits.  in  Large   Quanti- 
ties  AND   OF   THE    FlNEST   QUALITY.       WHOLESALE    PRICES 

ON  Large  Orders  fob  Sthictlty  High  Grade  Fruits. 
Call,  or  Write  and  State  Quantity  and  we   Will 

447  !sii".js!'L"Af'!i'j  WELLS  CANDY  CO. 


I 

■ 

I 


RECEIVED, 

NOV  6  1901  ■*■ 

PEABODY  MUSEUM, 


Vol.  10,  NO.  4  OCTOBtR,  1001 


The  Ivory  Crucifix. 


"  Ride,  Juan,  he  follows,  follows  fast !  " 

Nay,  darling,  down  the  wind 
You  do  but  hear  the  trampling  herds 

That  flee  our  path  behind  : 
Look  forward  where  the  sunrise  plays 

Across  the  mountain's  rim. 
There  shall  you  measure  fairer  days 

With  me,  and  far  from  him. 

"  Oh  1  Juan,  the  desert  lies  between, 

A  waste  of  fear  and  dread, 
Smitten  with  bitter  winds  that  shake 

The  white  bones  of  the  dead  ; 
It  lies  between,  as  in  our  hearts 

Our  sinful  loving  lies  ; 
Think  you  that  earth  will  grant  us  peace 

An  angry  heaven  denies  ? 

"Haste  !     Haste  !     I  hear  the  click  of  steel. 

The  ring  of  muffled  spur. 
And  fearful  shapes  loom  grim  against 

The  far  mirage's  blur  ; 
Up  swimming  on  its  trembling  light 

Huge  shadowy  giants  ride. 
Like  blood-avengers  through  the  haze, 

He,  with  his  men  beside  1 " 


208  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

Red  swung  the  sun,  a  sullen  disk 

Across  the  copper  sky, 
And  whirling  sand-wreaths  pale  as  ghosts 

Beat  upward  spitefully ; 
Beat  up  and  broke,  and  whirled  anew, 

And  called  their  nameless  kin 
To  race  with  them  the  race  of  death 

No  soul  of  man  may  win. 

Forgot  and  far  the  fear  behind, 

Before  the  God  of  wrath 
Outstretched  his  hands  upon  the  storm 

And  barred  their  guilty  path  : 
'*  A  cross  !  "  How  grim  and  gray  and  gaunt 

The  tall  Zahuaro  loomed, 
As  if  in  solemn  vigil  o'er 

Some  martyr-saint  entombed. 


(i 


Pray  I    Pray  I  "  she  whispered  as  they  fell, 

The  pitying  saints  may  hear. 
Jesus  !     One  mercy  in  the  name 

Of  her  that  is  most  dear  ! 
Oh  !  Mary,  Mother  !  if  your  grace 

Be  given  to  such  as  we, 
I  crave  you  of  your  tenderness 

Spare  him  and  punish  me  ! 

The  crucifix  my  mother  gave 

With  dying  breath  !  "  she  strove 
To  la)'^  the  carven,  ivory  Christ, 

Upon  the  lips  beloved. 
Mine  be  the  penance,  gracious  Lord  !  " 

The  dark  wall  closed  apace. 
As  if  earth  sought  to  hide  from  heaven 

That  anguished,  bleeding  face. 

Still,  still  along  the  drifted  sand. 

How  still  the  starlight  crept  ! 
How  still  his  vigil  lone  and  sad 

The  gaunt  Zahuaro  kept ! 
There,  where  in  wavering  shadows  that 

Like  life's  threads  intermix, 
Her  dead  hand  still  to  his  dead  lips 

Pressed  close  the  crucifix. 


Prescott,  Ariz. 


A  Visit  to  the  Hoodoos  of  Wyoming. 


parts  of  the  countr)-,   especially  in  the 
Northwestern   States,    peculiar    erosions 
are  found   which   are  known  as   "  Hoo- 
doos,"    One  of  the  largest  and  most  in- 
teresting groups  of  these  grotesque  geo- 
logical formations  is  located  just  east  of 
the    Yellowstone     Park     in    Big    Horn 
county,    Wyoming,      As   these   Hoodoos 
are  very  seldom  visited,  and  as  the  meager  published  de- 
scriptions seemed  marvelous  almost  beyond  belief,  a  small 
party,  of  which  the  writer  was  a  member,  decided  to  visit 
this  region. 

The  party  was  outfitted  in  Bozeman,  Montana,  and  con- 
sisted of  a  guide,  his  two  sons,  a  professor,  a  doctor,  a 
preacher,  and  the  writer.  We  engaged  a  pacTcer  and  a  cook, 
and  our  pack  train  consisted  of  nine  saddle  horses  and  nine 
pack  horses.  We  rode  about  eiehteen  miles  the  first  day  and 
made  camp  just  east  of  the  Bozeman  tunnel,  at  the  top  of 
the  divide  between  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Missouri,  at 
an  altitude  of  about  5,000  feet.  The  following  day  we 
passed  through  Livingston  and  traversed  the  dry  plains  in 
the  direction  of  the  Absaroka  Mountains. 

Our  third  day's  journey  took  us  to  the  Natural  Bridge  on 
the  Boulder  river,  about  twenty-five  miles  from  Big  Tim- 
ber. This  is  well  worthy  of  a  greater  pilgrimage  than  it 
receives.  The  Boulder  is  here  a  dashing  mountain  stream 
about  fifty  feet  wide.  It  disappears  in  an  immense  whirl- 
pool into  the  limestone  rock,  and  flows  in  a  subterranean 
channel  for  about  300  feet.  The  lower  end  of  the  tunnel 
opens  out  on  the  face  of  a  perpendicular  wall  of  solid  rock 
which  is  150  feet  high.  The  river  bursts  forth  from  the  tun- 
nel at  a  height  of  about  forty  feet  from  the  bottom  of  a  pre- 
cipice, and  falls  into  a  large  rock  basin,  from  which  it  dis- 
appears again  in  the  rock  and  runs  in  its  hidden  course  for  a 
distance  of  quarter  of  a  mile.  During  high  water  the  tunnel 
is  not  large  enough  to  receive  the  whole  river,  and  the 
overflow  passes  in  a  channel  worn  in  the  surface  of  the 
rock,  dashing  over  the  brink  of  the  precipice  at  the  same 
time  that  the  lower  portion  is  bursting  out  of  the  tunnel 
part  way  down  the  cliff.  In  the  bottom  of  the  upper  bed, 
which  was  dry  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  we  discovered  an 
opening  into  a  cavern  in  the  limestone.  By  the  aid  of 
two  picket  ropes  we  descended  into  the  cavern  and 
found  it  to  be  of  considerable  size.  At  flood  times  the 
water  evidently  passes  through  this  cavern  also. 


■PVWPW^    --i^  "»  -^-^  «|i— ^w^i  ■!■■       iL    ^■■^^B^y»i^!''--^^^^i^inpwf>y 


210  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

m 

From  the  Natural  Bridge  we  proceeded  up  the  Boulder 
along  what  had  been  described  to  us  as  **  a  good  wagon 
road."  We  had  to  walk,  however,  a  considerable  part  of 
the  distance,  as  the  horses  were  unable  to  make  their  way 
over  the  rocks  with  a  rider.  Supper  had  to  be  cooked  and 
eaten  that  evening  in  a  dashing  rainstorm.  Our  baking 
powder  biscuits  were  thoroughly  soaked  and  we  had  to  dip 
them  in  a  sort  of  emulsified  bacon  grease.  But  a  mount- 
ain appetite  is  not  easily  disturbed. 

We  were  now  skirting  the  mountains  which  surround 
the  Lake  Park  region,  and  we  purposed  entering  this 
country  by  the  first  practicable  pass.  We  broke  camp  early 
in  the  morning  and  proceeded  up  the  beautiful,  heavily- 
wooded  canon  of  the  Boulder.  An  old  prospector,  with  a 
flint-lock  rifle,  informed  us  that  he  had  seen  three  bears  in 
a  huckleberry  patch  a  few  miles  up  the  river,  but  had  not 
cared  to  attack  them  with  a  flintlock.  After  riding  for 
about  an  hour  we  suddenly  caught  sight  of  the  ears  of  a 
bear  above  the  huckleberry  bushes.  We  finally  succeeded 
in  killing  all  three  bears,  the  whole  affair  occupying  not 
more  than  two  minutes.  We  found  that  we  had  fired 
something  more  than  fifty  shots,  and  that  the  two  boys  of 
the  party  had  killed  all  the  bears.  The  rest  of  the  party, 
however,  had  demonstrated  the  great  penetrating  power  of 
steel- jacketed  bullets  in  various  trees.  This  episode  not  only 
gave  us  bear  skulls  and  skins  as  trophies,  but  some  fine 
bear  steak  which  proved  a  very  acceptable  variation  from 
bacon.  The  old  female  was  of  a  deep  black  color,  while 
one  of  the  cubs  was  black  and  the  other  brown.  Both  cubs 
were  males. 

Thus  far  we  had  been  following  the  middle  fork  of  the 
Boulder.  We  now  took  a  trail  which  led  up  one  of  the 
branches,  and  camped  in  a  beautiful  basin  at  an  altitude 
of  about  8,500  feet.  The  next  day  being  Sunday,  we  gave 
the  horses  a  needed  rest  and  climbed  a  peak  11,000  feet  in 
height.  Here,  for  the  first  time  in  our  trip,  we  found 
everlasting  snowbanks.  The  Alpine  plants  and  insects  of 
this  peak  were  very  interesting  and  of  great  variety. 
We  made  a  full  collection  of  the  plants,  among  which 
there  proved  to  be  twenty  species  new  to  science.  Later  in 
the  day  we  descended  the  peak  and  traveled  over  a  pass 
into  the  Lake  Park  country.  This  is  essentially  a  plateau, 
9,000  to  10,000  feet  high  and  for  the  most  part  well  covered 
with  grass.  One  of  the  most  attractive  features  of  this 
region  is  the  abundance  of  small  lakes  with  clear  cold 
water  and  plenty  of  fine  trout.  There  were  also  fresh 
signs  of  mountain  sheep,  deer  and  elk. 

Our  next  march  took  us  along  Slough  Creek,  and  we 


A    ViSfT    TO    THE   HOODOOS    OF    WYOMING.         213 

camped  at  Lake  Abundance,  near  Cook  City.  Plenty  of 
good  trout  were  to  be  had  in  the  lake  and  some  rather 
tough  ducks,  but  almost  any  fresh  meat  was  agreeable  for 
the  sake  of  variety. 

From  Lake  Abundance  we  crossed  the  divide  and  went 
down  Clark's  Pork.  This,  like  all  mountain  streams  in 
the  region,  furnished  ideal  conditions  for  trout ;  but  there 
are  no  fish  in  the  river  or  any  of  its  branches  above  the 
falls,  which  are  located  at  the  point  where  Dead  Indian 
and  Sunlight  Creeks  unite  with  the  main  fork. 

We  traveled  two  days  down  this  stream  and  at  last 
reached  the  falls.  The  three  rivers  which  unite  at  this 
point  all  run  in  canons  cut  in  the  solid  rock  to  a  depth  of 
about  400  feet.  Near  Cook  City,  and  upon  the  south  side 
of  Clark's  Fork,  are  located  two  high  peaks  of  magnificent 
appearance,  separated  by  a  deep  abrupt  chasm,  but  consti- 
tuting a  sort  of  twin  mountain.  They  are  called  Pilot  and 
Index  Peaks  ;  their  tops  seemed  inaccessible. 

Finding  the  Sunlight  Creek  to  the  Hoodoos  too  difficult, 
we  went  back  to  Crandall  Creek  and  camped  near  the  spot 
where  Crandall  and  his  companions  were  treacherously  shot 
by  Indians.  After  photographing  two  or  three  supposed 
graves  of  Crandall,  we  finally  found  the  real  one  and  piled 
several  stones  upon  the  grave  to  mark  the  place. 

We  had  supposed  that  from  this  camp  we  could  reach  the 
Hoodoo  plateau  in  one  long  march  ;  since  it  was  only  about 
twenty  miles,  as  we  estimated  by  the  geological  survey 
maps,  though  the  trail  was  a  difficult  one.  But  it  took  us 
four  days  of  hard  work  to  reach  our  main  objective  point. 

Saturday  morning  we  started  early,  to  reach  the  Hoodoos 
the  same  afternoon.  Upon  breaking  camp,  the  bear  skins 
were  packed  on  the  mule  for  the  first  time.  As  soon  as  she 
sniffed  the  peculiar  odor  of  bear  at  such  close  quarters,  she 
attempted  to  get  awa}*^  from  her  imagined  enemy,  but  we 
overtook  her  about  four  miles  from  camp.  We  proceeded 
up  the  main  fork  of  Crandall  Creek.  The  valley  grew  nar- 
rower, until  we  entered  a  canon  and  were  forced  to  ride  in 
the  creek ;  and  after  another  mile  we  came  to  impassable 
cascades  with  perpendicular  walls  on  either  side ;  so  we 
were  forced  to  go  back  to  our  previous  camp.  After  a 
reconnaissance  we  climbed  the  ridge  on  the  south  side  of 
the  south  fork  of  Crandall  Creek  and  followed  it  all  day. 
This  is  the  historic  trail  down  which  the  Nez  Perces  came 
when  they  succeeded  in  eluding  the  United  States  troops  at 
the  canon  of  Clark's  Fork.  At  five  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
third  day  we  arrived  on  the  brink  of  the  canon  of  Hoodoo 
Creek  ;  across  which,  about  five  miles  distant,  the  Hoodoo 
plateau  was  plainly  in  view.      We  found   that  we  must 


Hoodoo  Coluhh.  200  Fbkt  Hiqh. 


A    VISIT    TO    THE    HOODOOS   OF    WYOMING.         217 

descend  1,500  feet  and  climb  an  equal  height  on  the  op- 
posite side  to  reach  the  plateau.  The  sides  of  the  canon 
were  so  steep  that  several  hours'  hard  work  with  pick  and 
shovel  was  necessary  before  we  could  get  the  animals  down. 
The  following"  morning  we  descended  a  zigzag  course,  and, 
leading  the  horses  and  also  holding  on  to  their  tails,  took 
them  safely  down  one  by  one.  Then  came  the  climb  on 
the  opposite  side,  which  was  the  most  difiScult  one  of  the 
whole  trip.  We  had  to  make  steps  in  a  snow  bank  in  order 
to  cross  it,  and  even  where  there  was  no  snow,  we  had  to 
rest  every  few  steps.  The  guide  and  the  writer  were  the 
first  to  reach  the  plateau.  Our  camp  on  the  plateau  was 
at  an  elevation  of  10,300  feet.  We  shot  an  old  blue  grouse 
cock  here  but  at  such  an  altitude  it  was  impossible  to  boil, 
fry,  or  otherwise  reduce  the  flesh  to  an  eatable  degree  of 
tenderness.  Soon  after  our  arrival  on  the  plateau  a  thunder- 
storm burst  upon  us  with  terrific  fury  just  as  we  sat  down 
to  supper.  The  course  of  the  flashes  of  lightning  was 
hprizontal. 

It  is  perhaps  impossible  adequately  to  describe  the 
Hoodoos.  It  was  remarked  by  several  of  the  party  that 
the  Hoodoo  Basin  contains  more  of  interest  than  the  Yel- 
lowstone Park.  Hoodoo  Peak,  which  rises  to  an  elevation 
of  nearly  12,000  feet,  is  located  at  the  northwest  corner  of 
the  plateau.  From  its  top  one  can  see,  away  to  the  north, 
the  Granite  or  Beartooth  Mountains,  with  Granite  Peak 
rising  to  a  height  of  12,800  feet,  the  highest  point  in  Mon- 
tana, and  with  immense  snowfields  and  small  glaciers  even 
on  the  southern  exposure.  To  the  southeast  the  horizon  is 
formed  by  one  of  the  most  magnificent  ranges  of  the  Ab- 
saroka  system,  while  far  to  the  south  the  Tetons  present 
an  imposing  spectacle  with  their  chief  peak,  the  Grand 
Teton,  reaching  a  height  of  14,800  feet.  The  main  Hoodoo 
basin  is  located  in  an  immense  canon  on  the  south  side  of 
Hoodoo  Peak.  The  most  interesting  group  of  Hoodoos, 
however,  the  group  which  apparently  was  not  visited  by 
the  Geological  Survey  parties,  is  to  be  found  on  the  south- 
east and  east  slopes  of  the  peak,  and  is  about  three  miles 
distant  from  the  main  Hoodoo  Basin. 

The  whole  region  is  of  volcanic  origin,  being  largely 
composed  of  basic  breccia.  The  softer  parts  are  readily 
eroded  and  carried  away  by  the  water,  while  the  hard  parts 
remain  standing  in  the  form  of  *' Hoodoos"  of  all  sizes  and 
of  every  conceivable  shape.  It  requires  no  imagination  to 
see  chickens,  cathedrals,  towers,  palaces,  camels,  goats, 
men  and  women,  done  in  breccia.  The  figures  vary  in  size 
from  the  merest  hummocks  to  columns  of  200  feet  in  height. 
One   group  was  particularly  striking  and  lifelike  —  of  a 


VISIT    TO    THE    HOODOOS    OF    WYOMING. 


Tub  aooDoo  Chief  and  Ui9  Habbm.  Pboto.  b;  F.  W.  Tra 

number  of  large  columns,  of  which  one  stood  apart  from 
the  rest.  Upon  the  main  group  were  mounted  several  female 
figures  in  most  fantastic  drapery.  On  the  isolated  column 
was  an  immense  bust  of  a  man  about  fifty  feet  in  height. 
His  giant  arm  was  extended  and  the  clenched  fist  rested 


A    VISIT    TO    THE    HOODOOS   OF    WYOMING.         221 

Upon  the  column.  He  had  upon  his  head  a  twisted  turban 
and  wore  a  most  grotesque  solemn  expression.  There  were 
no  commandments  on  stone  tablets,  but  the  gentleman  was 
evidently  laying  down  the  law  to  his  assembled  harem,  and 
he  was  named,  accordingly,  the  **  Hoodoo  Chief."  We  had 
great  expectations  of  the  Hoodoos  and  were  agreeably  sur- 
prised. They  were  far  more  interesting  than  we  had 
imagined. 

As  from  the  Hoodoo  plateau  we  searched  the  distant  snow- 
fields  of  the  Granite  Mountains  with  our  field-glasses, 
regret  was  felt  that  we  had  not  made  a  side  trip  to  the 
Grasshopper  Glacier  of  that  region.  This  glacier  is  not  of 
great  size,  but  is  especially  interesting  from  the  fact  that 
it  contains  tons  of  grasshoppers  frozen  into  the  ice  far 
below  the  surface.  They  are  probably  the  Rocky  Mountain 
locust,  but  they  crumble  so  rapidly  on  being  exposed  to  the 
air  that  the  species  could  not  be  determined  from  specimens 
brought  by  the  party  which  visited  the  glacier.  Photo- 
graphs of  the  glacier  show  that  the  grasshoppers  are  im- 
bedded in  two  strata  of  the  ice. 

On  leaving  the  Hoodoos,  the  expedition  passed  down 
Miller  Creek  and  Lamar  River  into  the  Yellowstone  Park* 
We  stopped  on  Cache  Creek  near  Death  Gulch,  visited  Soda 
Butte,  and  spent  some  time  on  Amethyst  Creek  and  in  the 
Fossil  Forest.  One  camp  was  made  at  Tower  Falls,  and 
on  the  way  we  received  at  Yancey's  our  first  mail  from 
home. 

One  day's  journey  along  the  canon  of  the  Yellowstone 
brought  us  to  the  lower  falls,  and  here  we  were  surprised 
to  find  ourselves  under  arrest  by  order  of  the  military 
authorities  of  the  Park.  On  the  day  of  our  march  from 
Tower  Falls  to  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone,  two 
armed  highwaymen  had  held  up  six  stage-coaches  on  the 
road  from  the  Canon  Hotel  to  Norris  Basin  and  robbed  the 
passengers.  Naturally  we  knew  nothing  of  the  affair, 
having  come  from  the  opposite  direction.  During  this 
day's  journey  our  party  had  become  separated.  In  crossing 
a  boggy  meadow,  alone,  my  horse  broke  through  the  sod 
and  broke  a  strap  by  which  my  gun  was  slung  to  the 
saddle.  At  this  moment  I  saw  two  men  slowly  riding  out 
of  the  woods.  I  supposed  them  to  be  the  professor  and  the 
doctor,  who  had  not  been  seen  since  morning,  and  imme- 
diately shouted  ;  whereupon  the  men  wheeled  their  horses 
and  disappeared  in  the  forest.  I  dismounted,  took  my  gun 
from  the  case,  readjusted  the  case,  and  after  leading  my 
horse  across  the  meadow,  rode  on  more  rapidly  in  order  to 
overtake  the  guide. 

This  little  episode  had  unexpected  developments.      It 


J 


222  LAND   OF   SUNSHiNE. 

seems  that  the  two  riders  were  the  hig^hwaymen.  A  mes- 
senger had  been  sent  to  summon  troops  and  was  riding  on 
the  trail  along  the  side  of  the  meadow  when  I  shouted. 
He  did  not  see  the  horsemen,  and  supposed  I  was  shouting 
at  him.  His  mind  was  full  of  the  recent  robbery ;  and 
when  1  took  my  gun  from  its  case  he  concluded  that  I  was 
about  to  try  a  shot  at  him.  So  he  put  spurs  to  his  horse 
and  rode  at  his  best  speed  for  three  miles,  when  he  met  the 
soldiers  and  informed  them  that  he  had  barely  escaped  be- 
ing shot  by  one  of  the  robbers.  When  the  soldiers  arrived 
at  the  Canon  hotel,  they  found  us  boldly  enccimped  near 
the  river,  nine  men  strong  and  eighteen  horses.  We  were 
at  once  directed  not  to  break  camp  pending  further  orders 
from  the  superintendent  of  the  park.  We  were  kept  under 
military  arrest  for  nearly  thirty-six  hours  after  the  super- 
intendent knew  who  we  were,  and  for  reasons  which  we 
were  quite  unable  to  discover.  The  soldiers  seemed  to 
know  nothing  of  the  park  except  the  regular  wagon  road 
over  which  tourists  are  taken.  We  were  told  that  every 
possible  exit  from  the  park  was  guarded,  but  when  we  said 
we  intended  to  leave  the  park  by  the  Bannock  Pass,  the 
sergeant  confessed  that  he  did  not  know  its  location. 

As  we  rode  over  this  pass  we  found  a  fresh,  well  beaten 
elk  track,  and  on  the  Gallatin  side  of  the  pass  at  the  foot 
of  Three  Rivers  Peak,  saw  a  band  of  about  150  elk.  From 
Three  Rivers  Peak  to  Bozeman  we  traveled  more  rapidly, 
covering  the  whole  distance  in  three  days  and  riding  fifty 
miles  on  the  third  day.  Thus  we  may  briefly  describe  our 
route  as  eastward  along  the  whole  northern  boundary  of 
the  park,  southward  to  the  Hoodoos,  and  westward  through 
the  park,  returning  by  the  Gallatin  Canon.  The  trip  occu- 
pied us  for  twenty-five  days,  and  we  traveled  over  500 
miles  of  mountainous  country. 

From  a  botanical  standpoint  I  never  saw  a  richer  country. 
On  the  Hoodoo  plateau  there  are  to  be  found  in  August 
not  only  a  great  variety  of  alpine  plants  in  full  bloom,  but 
also  such  plants  as  Dodecatheon  and  Claytonia,  which  at 
lower  altitudes  are  among  the  earliest  spring  flowers. 
Upon  this  plateau  it  freezes  every  night.  While  we  were 
there  a  half  inch  of  ice  formed  during  the  night.  All  the 
plants  here  are  frozen  so  that  they  may  be  broken  off  in 
the  early  morning,  and  the  ice  rattles  off  from  them  upon 
one's  boots.  The  fringed  gentian  may  be  frozen  so  rigidly 
that  the  petals  can  be  broken  in  the  fingers.  As  soon  as  the 
sun  appears,  however,  the  plants  thaw  out  and  are  un- 
injured. 

In  the  mud  near  the  edges  of  the  snow  banks,  buttercups 
and  calthas  grow  in  great  abundance.     These  plants  also 


SOME    INDIAN    PAINTINGS.  223 

force  their  way  through  the  snow,  and  it  is  not  an  uncom- 
mon thing  to  see  them  flaunting  their  gay  flowers  above 
the  surface  of  the  snow. 

The  Hoodoos  may  be  approached  either  from  the  Yellow- 
stone Park  or  from  Crandall  Creek,  and  for  the  geologist, 
zoologist,  botanist,  photographer  or  tourist,  the  region 
presents  attractions  which  are  seldom  equalled. 

tJ.  S.  Dept,  of  Aaricpllort.  WiahiuBlon,  D.  C. 


Some  Indian  Paintings. 


S  the  vicinity  of    Santa  Barbara, 

[ng  the  adjacent  islands,  sustained 

ier   population  of  aborigines   than 

;ality  else  in  all  California.     With 

>st  perfect  of  climate,   and  sea  and 

urnishing  an  abundance  of  food  at 

imum  of  labor,    it  is    not   strange 

that    the    Indians   congregated    here    in 

large   numbers;    and  several    of    the    earliest  "sources" 

state  that  here  they  were  thickest.     The  ethnologist  and 

archsologist  have   found  here    a   rich  field ;   and  tons  of 

artifects  of  a  prehistoric  people  have  been  unearthed  from 

the  ancient  burying  grounds  and  elsewhere  and  sent  to  the 

Smithsonian  Institution,  not  to  mention  a  number  of  fine 

private    collections.       Those   not    particularly    interested 

somehow   found   themselves  in  possession  of  mortars  and 

pestles,  metales,  baskets,   wampum,  etc.,   until   not  many 

homes  in  Santa  Barbara  were  without  at  least  a  few  of 

these  relics  of  a  vanished  race. 

If  one  did  not  care  to  do  his  collecting,  he  had  no  diffi- 
culty in  buying  at  reasonable  rates  ;  for  these  articles  were 
too  plentiful  to  be  particularly  valued  except  by  a  scien- 
tific few  ;  but  one  day  it  was  discovered  that,  barring  the 
collections  of  these  few,  the  relics,  once  to  be  picked  up 
anywhere,  had  suddenly  disappeared.  They  had  been 
quietly  bought  up  at  a  low  figure  until  it  was  realized 
the  town  was  almost  swept  clean  of  the  stone  imple- 
ments and  other  curios,  that  went  to  swell  the  showing  at 
the  World's  Fair.  As  the  country  had  already  been  pretty 
well  gleaned  they  have  not  again  accumulated  to  any  large 
extent. 

There  still  remain,  however,  presumably  because  they 
cannot  be  carried  off,  examples  of  "picture-writing"  on 
the  rocks  about  Santa  Barbara  Several,  being  exposed  to 
the  elements,   are   almost  obliterated ;  others   are   within 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


caves  and   are  so   well  protected   that   the  colors  are  as 
bright  as  if  but  recently  applied. 

The  most  notable  one  is  that  known  as  "  Painted  Cave," 
fourteen  or  fifteen  miles  northwest  of  Santa  Barbara,  near 
the  summit  of  the  Santa  Ynez  mountains  and  east  of  the 
San  Marcos  pass.  It  is  located  on  an  old  Indian  trail.  As 
there  is  a  good  spring  near  by,  it  is  probable  it  was  once  a 
camping  place.  Formerly  there  was  no  way  of  reaching- 
it  except  by  trail,  and  it  was  rarely  seen  ;  but  since  settlers 
have  located  in  the  vicinity  and  opened  a  road  it  is  easier 
of  access,  and  the  disfiguring  of  the  painting  by  writing 
and  cutting  names   and  shipping  ofE  pieces  of  the   rock. 


SOME    INDIAN    PAINTINGS. 


show  tbat  now  it  not  only  has  visitors  but  that  it  will  soon 
be  sacrificed  to  the  idiotic  mania  afflicting  so  many  people 
who  oufht  to  know  better. 

This  cave  was  first  scientifically  reported,  I  believe,  by 
Dr.  W.  J.  Hoffman,  of  the  Bureau  of  Ethnology,  who 
visited  it  in  1883  and  made  an  incomplete  drawing  of  the 
paintings. 

The  cavity  containing  the  pictographs  is  in  a  huge 
block  of  sandstone,  perhaps  30  or  40  feet  high,  that  might 
have  been  set  with  a  plummet  into  the  side  of  the  mount- 
ain, the  road  passing  immediately  at  its  base.     A  few  feet 


226  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

Up  the  steep  mountain  side  the  opening^  is  reached.  The 
interior  is  somewhat  larger  than  the  entrance,  measuring: 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  across  and  about  eight  feet  high. 
The  floor  inclines  rapidly  toward  the  back  and  there  is 
a  sort  of  ledge  on  the  left  side,  but  otherwise  the  walls  and 
ceiling  are  nicely  arched. 

The  larger  painting,  which  is  at  the  right  of  the  en- 
trance, is  on  a  convex  surface  and  extends  upward  until  the 
top  is  almost  overhead,  though  the  illustration  does  not 
show  this — owing  to  the  position  in  which  it  was  necessary 


Ehtiahce  to  Cave. 

to  place  the  camera.  The  central  figures  appear  smaller 
because  of  their  further  distance  from  the  lens. 

The  other  painting — there  are  two — ^is  on  the  opposite 
side  near  the  back  of  the  cave,  and  while  it  covers  much 
less  space  and  has  fewer  figures,  they  are  larger  and 
perhaps  better  defined  than  in  the  more  pretentious  one. 
The  colors,  red,  white,  yellow  and  black,  are  as  fresh  and 
bright  as  though  recently  laid  on.  It  is  said  to  be  one  of 
the  best,  if  not  the  best,  preserved  picture-writings  on  the 
Pacific  Coast.     Yet  what  it  tells  no  man  knoweth. 

The  most  interesting  figures  are  the  two  on  the  extreme 
left  of  the  larger  group.     One  is  a  primitive  representation 


SOME    INDIAN    PAINTINGS.  227 

of  an  Indian  chief,  with  two  dots  for  eyes  and  four  feathers 
in  his  headdress.  The  black  and  white  horizontal  stripes 
back  of  him  evidently  represent  his  blanket.  The  other 
figure  is  immediately  beneath  it  and  is  exactly  the  same 
except  that  it  is  headless.  There  is  a  tradition  that  the 
Santa  Barbara  Indians  and  the  Santa  Ynez  Indians  met 
here  and  made  a  treaty,  of  which  the  cave  painting  is  a 
record.  Could  it  be  that  the  second  figure  suggests  the 
chief  that  breaks  the  treaty  ?  Or,  as  some  tribes  represent 
death  by  this  method,  could  it  be  intended  to  perpetuate 
the  memory  of  one  of  their  number  who  died  or  was  killed 
on  some  memorable  expedition  ?  A  figure  not  unlike  these 
two  is  also  prominent  in  the  smaller  group.  There  are  va- 
rious circular  designs,  maltese  crosses,  snake-like  mark- 
ings, parallel  lines,  a  cross-barred  pattern,  tree-forms, 
something  resembling  a  centipede,  insects,  etc.  Some  of 
the  lines  are  etched  in  the  rock  and  then  painted,  and  the 
whole  is  partly  enclosed  by  a  narrow  border  of  alternating 
squares. 

Dr.  Hoffman,  after  seeing  some  illustrations  in  a  Mexi- 
can ethnological  collection,  concluded  that  the  circular  fig- 
ures with  crossed  lines  may  indicate  bales  of  blankets, 
which  were  an  article  of  trade  at  the  Santa  Barbara  Mis- 
sion, the  lines  showing  the  cords  with  which  they  were 
tied.  The  human  forms  portray  the  traders,  those  with 
the  horizontal  bands  being  represented  as  lying  flat  on 
their  zarapes.  Some  of  the  smaller  bales  show  projecting 
lines  at  the  edges,  supposed  to  be  the  knots,  or  ends  of 
cords.  Along  the  lower  edge  of  the  painting  is  what  ap- 
pears to  be  a  horse,  with  a  bale  on  his  back,  led  by  a  man, 
and  there  are  such  other  figures  as  caused  Dr.  Hoffman  to 
think  it  likely  that  it  is  a  record  of  a  trading  expedition 
from  the  north. 

While  this  seems  probable,  if  correct  it  brings  the  time 
of  painting  within  a  comparatively  recent  period,  as  it  is 
but  a  little  over  a -hundred  years  since  the  mission  was  es- 
tablished, and  trading  could  hardly  have  begun  until 
some  time  later,  in  which  case  it  is  the  more  remark- 
able that  no  definite  knowledge  of  it  is  obtainable. 

Since  the  best  that  can  be  gathered  is  only  conjecture, 
may  it  not,  after  all,  be  only  the  expression  of  the  artistic 
sense  of  some  untutored  child  of  nature,  who  painted  for 
the  mere  love  of  it  such  figures  as  pleased  his  fancy,  with 
no  thought  of  how  savants  in  future  years  would  puzzle 
their  brains  trying  to  unravel  their  supposed  mysteriotia 
meaning  ? 

Saota  Barbara,  Cal. 


The  Island  of  the  Good  Herb 

N  the   north   side  of    Yerba  Buena   Island   in 

San    Francisco   bay  is  a   tiny  spring.     The 

water  runs  out  of  a  bank  hung  with  black- 

t)erry  vines  and  wild  ivy.     It  trickles  along 

through  little  green  mosses  and  dead  brown 

leaves,   and   falls   into  a   round    stone  well. 

Trees  cling  to  the  side  of  the  hill  and  almost 

shut  out  the  sky  ;   elder  and   oak   and   long, 

slim  laurel.     Ferns  run  about  the  roots,  and 

^^  tiny  green  things  that  almost  have  no  name. 

About  fifty  feet  down  the  bank  the  water  of  the  bay  runs 

in  on  the  rocks.     It  shines  in  the  sun  and  sings  a  little 

song  of  its  own.     It  is  very  pretty,  but  it  is  not  the  only 


pretty  spot  on  the  island  of  Yerba  Buena.  The  north  side 
from  end  to  end  is  one  great  thicket.  There  are 
stretches  of  white  oak  and  elder,  live  oak  and  willow,  or- 
chards of  wild  cherry  and  plum,  and  tangles  of  vines. 
There  are  little  canons  filled  with  fern,  and  tiny  valleys 
where  the  fairies  might  sleep.  There  is  no  glimpse  of  the 
water  nor  the  hills  beyond.  There  is  no  sound  of  life,  no 
sight  of  the  ships  on  the  sea,  nor  the  great  city  beyond. 
It  is  deep  in  the  heart  of  nature.  A  black  butterfly  has 
been  idling  about.  There  is  a  bird  singing  somewhere. 
A  faint  breath  of  wind  is  drifting  among  the  trees. 


THE    ISLAND    OF    THt.    GOOD    HERB. 


It  is  nature  triumphant,  nature  neglected.  It  is  the 
island  of  Yerba  Bueaa.  Few  people  know  anything  about 
it.  The  few  who  land  on  it  look  at  the  light  and  the  fog 
horn  and  go  down  to  the  buoy  station.  They  walk  around 
the  new  training  school  and  take  the  tug  back  to  the  city. 
They  know  absolutely  nothing  of  the  island's  history,  or  of 
its  topography,  or  of  anything  else,  except  that  the  light 
is  lit  every  night  and  the  fog  horn  blows  when  it's  foggy. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  island  are  three  graves.  One  of 
them  is  that  of  D.  R.  A.  Dowling,  a  son  of  Thomas  Dow- 
ling,  a  claimant  of  the  island. 

There  are  many  old  pioneers  who  remember  the  fortunes 
■of  the  Dowlings  of  Yerba  Buena.  Thomas  Dowling,  the 
head  of  the  family,  came  to  California  in  1848  and  pur- 


2^(1  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

chased  Yerba  Bueoa  Island  from  the  Mexican  gfrantee, 
probably  one  of  the  Castros.  He  built  his  home  on  the 
east  side  of  the  island,  raised  a  family,  and  passed  his  time 
profitably  quarrying  sandstone  and  bluestone.  In  the  late 
60's  the  government  disputed  Dowling's  claim  to  the  island 
and  with  little  ceremony  ejected  him  from  his  home.  Dow- 
ling  went  to  Washington  to  fight  the  government,  but  died 
there  disappointed  in  '72.  Dowling  was  not  the  only 
claimant  of  Yerba  Buena.  Before  him  was  Pollack,  and 
the  more  noted  Limantour,  who  claimed  not  only  Yerba 
Buena  but  also  Alcatraz,  the  Farallones,  Point  Tiburon. 


PliolD.  by  H.  S.  Kirk. 

and  all  the  land  in  San  Francisco  south  of  California, 
street,  and  five  additional  grants  aggregating  nearly  a 
million  acres.  Limantour  claimed  the  land  in  return  for 
aid  given  the  government.  The  claim  created  a  sensation 
at  the  time,  but  it  finally  came  to  nothing.  Next  to  the 
Dowling  grave  is  a  broken  headstone  lying  flat  on  the 
ground.  It  is  green  and  brown  with  age.  At  the  top  is  a. 
willow  tree  carefully  carved.  It  records  the  death  of  E.  R. 
and  &.  F.  Lindsey,  one  of  whom  died  in  1S42,  and  the 
other  thirteen  years  later.  The  Lindseys  were  employes 
of  the  Dowlings. 

Before  the  white  man  came  from  the  south  the  island  wa& 


THE   ISLAND   OF   THE   GOOD   HERB. 


E&ST  Side  of  Ybrba  Bcbka.        Photo,  by  H.  R.  Kirk. 

the  home  of  a  tribe  of  Indians.  They  had  their  village  on  the 
mesa  where  the  training  school  stands,  and  further  up  on 
the  side  of  the  hill  their  burying  ground.  Relics  have  been 
excavated  at  odd  times  ;  mortars  and  pestles,  bones,  skulls 
and  skeletons.  A  frame  of  a  man  was  found  measuring 
six  feet  six  inches.  An  odd  find  was  that  of  a  skull  with  a 
bit  of  abalone  shell  fastened  in  the  mouth — presumably  to 
hold  down  the  tongue.  Some  have  claimed  the  skull  was 
that  of  a  woman.  A  stone  hammer  has  been  found  on  the 
island,  and  a  rude  sling ;  but  nothing  to  indicate  any 
special  virtue  on  the  part  of  the  natives.  Some  years  ago 
a  stone  was  found  on  the  top  of  the  island  bearing  the  im- 
print of  a  cloven  hoof.    It  is  supposed  to  have  been  put 


232  LAND    OF   SUNSH/NE. 

there  some  way  or  other  by  an  animal  now  extinct.  I  was 
told  the  devil  might  have  had  a  foot  in  it,  but  it's  possible 
enoug^h  he  didn't.  The  stone  is  now  in  the  State  Mining: 
Bureau  Museum. 

After  the  Civil  War  the  gfovernment  established  a  gar- 
rison on  the  island,  but  it  was  removed  a  few  years  later  to 
Angel  Island.  A  buoy  station  was  built,  and  a  magazine 
at  the  north  end  of  the  island.  That  was  all  the  official 
attention  Yerba  Buena  received  until  the  recent  commence- 
ment of  the  training  school.  The  railroad  has  had  eyes  on 
the  island  ever  since  it  crossed  the  plains.  There  has  been 
more  or  less  talk  of  the  island  becoming  a  railroad  ter- 
minus from  the  early  '60's  down  to  a  few  years  ago. 

The  light  was  built  in  '75.  It  is  one  of  the  smallest  on 
the  coast,  possessing  only  400  candle  power.  The  lamp 
itself  is  little  larger  than  those  in  ordinary  table  use. 
Down  on  the  wharf,  at  the  buoy  station,  where  the  big 
anchor  chains  lie  side  by  side,  and  the  great  red  buoys  look 
like  pumpkins  from  the  ferry  boats,  is  one  of  the  largest 
whistling  buoys  on  the  coast.  It  is  an  immense  thing, 
topped  with  a  long  yellow  whistle.  For  many  years  it 
rode  the  waves  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  It  was  on 
the  site  of  the  buoy  station  that  the  Dowling  home  was 
situated.  Traces  may  still  be  seen  of  the  quarry.  The 
earth  has  been  blown  away  from  the  side  of  the  island, 
leaving  bare  great  ledges  of  rock.  Blasting  was  carried 
on  also  along  the  south  side  of  the  island. 

Yerba  Buena  covers  540  acres,  and  its  highest  altitude  is 
340  feet.  Its  vegetation  is  varied,  and  on  the  north  side 
riotous  enough  for  any  valley  in  any  part  of  California. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  oak,  elderberry,  California 
holly,  wild  cherry  and  wild  plum.  There  are  acres  of  wild 
gooseberry  and  blackberry,  and,  almost  all  over  the  island, 
fern  in  profusion.  There  are  abundant  wild  flowers — 
poppies,  buttercups,  and  fleur-de-lis.  But  the  Yerba 
Buena,  '*the  good  herb,"  is  gone.  There  is  not  a  trace  of 
it  on  the  island.  There  are  bees  and  butterflies  and 
birds,  orioles  and  owls,  singing  sparrows  and  humming 
birds.  Quail  run  through  the  brush,  and  great  black 
crows  caw  clumsily  in  the  dead  trees.  There  are  bluejays 
and  buzzards  and  hawks  and  sea  gulls  to  be  sure,  and 
now  and  then  a  sight  of  an  eagle.  There  have  been  few 
wild  animals  on  the  island  since  the  day  of  the  unknown 
monster  with  the  cloven  hoof.  Zoology  is  about  confined 
to  the  ancient  goat  which  roams  at  leisure  about  the  bluff 
near  the  magazine.  The  animal  is  about  twenty  years  old 
and  is  the  sole  surviving  descendant  of  the  herd  of  goats 
that  gave  a  name  to  the  island.     The  goats  were  raised  by 


THE   ISLAND    OF    THE    GOOD    HERB.  233 

a  man  called  Barnacle  Bill,  who  was  government  custodian 
of  the  island  after  the  removal  of  the  g^arrison.  Bill  died 
seven  years  ago  in  the  poor-house.  The  goats  were  sold  to 
the  butcher  and  shot  as  occasion  required,  all  but  two,  one 
of  whom  died  a  violent  death,  it  is  said,  but  his  head  still 
remains  carefully  stuffed  and  mounted  on  a  smooth  brown 
board.  The  other  William  remains  haughtily  on  his 
end  of  the  island  where  he  will  nibble  unmolested  until 
called  to  his  fathers. 

Light-keeper  Weiss,  an  entertaining  talker,  and  a  man 
of  much  good  nature,  has  interested  himself  in  the  history 
and  general  affairs  of  the  island  to  a  degree  unusual  in 
government  officials.  He  has  acquainted  himself  with  the 
geology  of  the  place,  the  flora  and  the  fauna,  and  every- 
thing else  connected  with  it.  He  has  even  gone  so  far  as 
to  enter  something  in  the  records  in  addition  to  the  state 
of  the  weather — a  custom  little  favored  by  his  prede- 
cessors. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  topmost  hill  is  the  glory  of 
Yerba  Buena.  The  best  time  to  see  it  is  after  the  spring 
rains.  The  air  is  clear  and  the  sky  is  blue  and  the  fog  is 
as  dead  as  the  winter.  The  Golden  Gate  is  directly  west, 
the  Presidio  and  Fort  Point  on  one  side  and  Point  Bonita 
distinctly  visible  on  the  other.  The  white  houses  of  Lime 
Point  stretch  down  to  the  water,  and  further  along  Sausa- 
lito  looks  out  between  the  trees.  The  Marin  mountains 
stand  dimly  purple,  and  over  it  all  rises  Tamalpais.  Bel- 
vedere is  to  the  right,  and  San  Quentin,  the  San  Rafael 
hills  and  the  black  and  blue  mountains  of  the  Contra  Costa 
with  fluffy  white  clouds  rising  over  them.  Low  rolling 
hills  stretch  on  to  Carquines,  pass  Point  Pinole,  Point 
Richmond  and  San  Pablo,  and  run  up  over  Berkeley  exult- 
ingly,  shutting  out  the  world  beyond  save  the  tip  of  Diablo. 
Oakland  lies  in  the  sun  with  her  head  in  the  hills.  Ala- 
meda is  further  along,  and  Bay  Farm  Island.  The  moun- 
tains fade  in  a  faint  light  and  in  the  distance  join  the 
hills  of  Santa  Clara  and  the  mountains  of  San  Mateo  and 
run  joyously  along  until  they  fall  at  the  feet  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

Alcatraz  stands  in  the  water  like  the  Castle  of  Chillon, 
and  next  to  it  Angel  Island,  which  the  Spanish  called  Isla 
de  la  Angel  Custodia.  The  Brothers  light  is  faintly  visi- 
ble, and  the  rocks  of  the  Sisters  ;  and  to  the  right.  Red 
Rock  or  Molate  Island,  as  it  was  formerly  known.  There 
are  ships  of  all  countries  lying  in  the  water,  some  with  white 
sails  and  some  with  no  sails  at  all.  There  are  Italian 
fishing  boats  rocking  idly  about,  and  a  Chinese  junk  be- 
yond the  Iowa,  near  the  French  war  vessel.     The  ferries 


234  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

lumber  heavily  along,  the  paddles  of  the  river  steamers 
shine  in  the  sun,  and  along  the  docks  a  transport  or  two 
goin^  out  to  sea,  to  the  song  of  the  siren. 

In  1769,  Visitador  Galvez  told  Father  Junipero  that  if 
Saint  Francis  wanted  a  port  and  a  mission  he  might  show 
the  way.  It  is  easy  to  think  some  inspiration  led  Father 
Crespi  and  Pedro  Fages,  and  Rivera  y  Moncada  up  the 
long  dreary  coast  and  over  the  hills  to  the  great  water  that 
had  been  unknown  to  the  outside  earth  since  the  dawn  of 
creation.  Some  idea  greater  than  that  of  man  filled  their 
hearts  and  their  souls,  and  carried  them  on  to  the  opening 
of  a  new  world,  to  the  port  of  the  Hesperides,  the  bay  of 
the  great  Saint  Francis  and  the  Island  of  the  Good  Herb. 


stylists.  His  Knglish  was  remarkably 
clear,  simple  and  competent ;  his  judgment  of  men  and 
policies  so  accurate  that  he  was  widely  trusted ;  his 
'  facts"  so  carefully  verified  as  used  to  be  essential  in 
newspapering  ;  and  his  point  of  view  broad.  He  was  one 
of   the  best-believed    "Washington    correspondents"   this 


IN    WESTERN    LETTERS.  235 

country  ever  had  ;  and  in 
that  capacity  and  as  trav- 
eling correspondent  of  the 
New  York  Herald  had  a 
rare  reputation.  He  was 
also  for  many  years  the 
right-hand  man  of  Wil- 
liam Cullen  Bryant  in  the 
New  York  Evening  Post. 
One  reason  why  Mr. 
N  o  r  d  h  o  ff  was  marked 
among  journalists  was 
that  he  was  better  educa- 
ted than  most  of  them. 
Thousands  of  them  had 
more  instruction  ;  but  he 
went  through  the  real  ed- 
ucing    process.      His 

school    advantages     were  cha^lks  nobdhoii'. 

very   limited — before   he   was    13    he    had    plunged    into 
the  working  world.    At  14  he  left  his  place  as  a  compositor 
and  went  to  sea.     For  nine  3'ears  he  was  a  sailor  before 
the  mast,  in  the  navy  for   three  years,  and  then   in   the 
merchant,    whaling  and   fishing  fleets,  circumnavigating 
the  globe  and  learning  from  his  bumps.     At  24  he  resumed 
the  shore,  and  was  by  turns  many  kinds  of  workingman — 
compositor,  farmer  and  so  on.     It  was  only  "  very  slowly 
and  hardly,"  as  he  has  said,  that  he  rose  to  be  proofreader, 
reporter,  and  finally  ripe  journ- 
alist.    From  1857  to  1861   he 
held  an  editorial  position  with 
the   Harpers.      From   18(il    to 
1871  he  was  with  the  New  York 
Efenitig    Post ;    then    visited 
California    and      the     Hawai- 
ian    Islands;    and   from    1874 
was  the  correspondent  of  the 
New     York    Me  ra  Id,    which 
pensioned   him    generously   in 
his    age      In  1890    he  retired 
from  active  work  and  settled  in 
California,    living   quietl}' 
and  wisely   at  Coronado.     He 
died  July  14,  1901,  at  the  age 
of    71 — having    been    born    at 
Westphalia,  Prussia,   in  1830, 
and    coming     to     the    United 
FiiHKn  scHiiiTT.  States  at  five  j-ears  old. 


CopjrIshI  by  Gen.  L.  Wllcni. 


IN   WESTERN   LETTERS.  237 

Among:  his  books  were — Man^/-  War^s  Life,  Nine  Tears  a 
Sailor^  The  Merchant  Vessel^  Whaling  and  Fishing  Stories; 
several  yolumes  based  on  his  travels  in  the  South  during? 
Reconstruction,  Politics  for  Tbung  America^  and  so  on. 
But  in  all  probability  his  most  important  work — and  cer- 
tainly that  for  which  the  West  best  knows  and  will  longest 
remember  him — was  his  series  of  Herald  letters,  collected 
into  book  form  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  introducing 
California  to  the  American  public  as  a  livable  country. 
Someone  has  called  him  ^'the  first  California  boomer," 
and  while  Bayard  Taylor,  Walter  Colton,  Lieut.  Revere 
and  other  able  men  long  before  him  had  done  handsomely, 
it  is  literally  true  that  Nordhoff  was  the  first  man  to  give 
an  adequate  idea  of  the  superiority  of  California  as  a  home. 
Out  of  date,  now,  and  based  upon  economic ,  conditions 
which  have  greatly  changed,  his  book  was  nevertheless  the 
most  effective  that  has  ever  yet  been  written  in  its  actual 
results  upon  immigration  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  He  was  not 
always  right  in  his  prophecies ;  but  since  he  began,  more 
than  a  million  people  have  indorsed  his  rare  sagacity 
in  seeing  the  vital  truth  that  there  is  no  other  such  place 
to  dwell  in. 

To  this  man  who  has  gone,  California  owes  a  far  larger 
debt  than  half  its  new-come  people  realize;  and  not  alone 
for  his  material  apostleship,  but  as  well  for  the  example  of 
a  brave,  clean,  competent,  unspoiled  and  serene  life. 

It  was  a  serious  blow  to  Western  research  when  that  fine 
and  gentle  spirit,  Rev.  Edmond  J.  P  Schmitt,  Catholic 
priest  and  true  historical  student,  was  taken  from  the 
slender  ranks  of  them  that  love  the  truth  enough  to  seek 
it.  Father  Schmitt  was  only  36,  but  already  one  of  the 
most  important  workers  in  the  field  of  Southwestern  his- 
tory. His  activities  were  principally  in  Texas,  and  the 
State  University,  which  thus  far  leads  all  Western  institu- 
tions in  the  vitality  and  scope  of  its  local  historical  re- 
search, has  lost  a  most  efficient  ally.  Father  Schmitt  was 
born  March  16,  1865,  at  New  Albany,  Ind. ;  was  ordained 
to  the  priesthood  May  31,  1890 ;  and  died  May  5,  1901,  at 
San  Antonio,  Texas,  of  consumption. 

* 
*  * 

Charles  A.  Keeler  and  Louise  M.  Keeler  have  returned 
to  their  Berkeley  home  from  an  eleven  months'  seafaring 
in  the  South  Seas,  with  serious  wayside  tarryin^s  in 
Samoa,  New  Zealand,  Auckland  and  other  points  ;  rich  in 
material  artistic,  traditionary  and  literary.  The  sumptuous 
two-volume  book  of  the  Harriman  outing  to  Alaska  con- 


238  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE, 

tains  an  article  by  Mr.  Keeler,  and  many  of  his  wife's  ex- 
quisite pen-and-ink  drawins^s. 

By  some  sweet  inspiration  of  the  printer  the  portrait  of 
Francis  Granger  Browne,  now  manager  of  the  publishing  de- 
partment of  A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.,  Chicago,  was  labeled  with 
the  name  of  his  father,  Francis  Fisher  Browne,  editor  of 
the  Dial.  Of  the  elder  Browne,  a  portrait  and  some  conti- 
nent comment  may  be  found  in  this  magazine  for  April, 
1900. 

Will  M.  Tipton,  the  foremost  Spanish  student  and  pale- 
ographer in  the  United  States ;  the  man  who,  as  special 
expert  of  the  Court  of  Private  Land  Claims,  defeated  the 
twelve-million-acre  land-steal  famous  as  the  Peralta  grant 
— and  his  account  (in  this  magazine  for  February  and 
March,  1898)  of  that  most  romantic  and  most  colossal 
swindle  ever  attempted  upon  the  government  made  a  deep 
impression — is  now  in  Manila,  where  he  holds  an  important 
position  under  the  civil  government.  It  is  well  to  give  our 
subjects  such  men  to  model  their  destinies ;  but  scholars 
have  a  feeling  that  our  own  country  cannot  spare  them. 

It  is  not  the  only  case  in  point.  The  greatest  genius  we 
have  yet  produced  in  the  history,  archaeology  and  ethnology 
of  the  Southwest  and  of  Spanish- America  in  general ;  the 
chiefest  of  our  documentary  authorities,  the  foremost  of 
our  field  students,  the  man  now  recognized  as  our  court  of 
last  appeal  in  these  matters — he  also  is  buried  in  a  heathen 
land.  That,  of  course,  is  Bandelier.  A  letter  from  him 
a  few  days  ago — the  first  to  get  through  in  over  a  year — 
tells  me  that  he  is  still  mewed  up  in  Bolivia.  His  plans  to 
return  to  the  United  States  last  year  (see  these  pages  for 
July  and  August,  1900)  were  cruelly  frustrated.  He  is 
still,  I  presume,  working  for  a  pittance  for  an  American 
museum — as  he  was  when  we  parted  eight  years  ago,  and 
as  such  men  are  glad  to  do  if  only  the  work  be  done.  He 
has  written,  I  know,  the  most  important  book  yet  written 
on  South  America  from  the  scientific  standpoint — and  five 
years  ago.  I  have  been  waiting  with  some  patience  for  his 
museum  to  publish  it.  I  am  still  waiting.  His  life  among 
the  cannibals  and  chunckos^  with  his  wife  who  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  most  talented  women  I  have  ever  seen, 
would  discount  Stanley  if  the  Stanley  standards  were  there 
to  '^make  much*'  of  these  things;  but  the  book  he  could 
write,  and  did — the  book  which  for  South  America  would 


JOSEPH  L£  CONTE.  2» 

be  what  his  Arckaological  lour  is  for  Mexico,  what  his 
Historical  Contributions  and  Final  Report  are  to  South- 
western history — that  is  smothered  somewhere. 

Now  there  is  only  one  fit  place  for  two  such  njen — if  we 
care  for  a  scholarship  at  all.  Both  should  be  filling:  chairs 
in  some  American  university ;  their  bread  and  butter  safe, 
their  more  important  leisure  assured  for  the  safeguarding 
in  type  of  what  they  have  learned  ;  their  present  energies 
harnessed  to  perhaps  the  most  important  work  any  Ameri- 
canist can  now  do — the  enlisting  of  fit  recruits  to  pursue 
Western  American  history  and  ethnology  before  it  shall  be 
too  late.  Both  these  are  Men ;  not  only  ripe  but  alive. 
In  an  unusual  sort,  they  are  men  who  would  kindle  young 
Americans  to  the  most  fascinating  and  the  most  neglected 
field  an  American  student  can  choose  withal — the  real 
study  of  Americana.  In  the  almost  unknown  University 
of  Texas,  the  personal  zeal  and  faith  of  Dr.  Geo.  P.  Gar- 
rison have  rallied  a  band  of  350  young  men  and  women  to 
the  study  of  our  Western  history.  That  is  a  type  of  what 
can  be  done — it  is  a  nudge  of  what  is  entitled  to  be  done — 
in  every  Western  university.  Let  us  know  what  we  can  of 
Greece  and  Rome  and  Nineveh,  but  let  us  not  be  all  snobs. 
Let  usescape  at  least  part  of  our  beastly  ignorance  about  our 
own  country — which  is  more  interesting.  And  the  way  to 
begin  is  to  begin  with  born  leaders  and  trained  ones — not 
with  Chautauqua  intellects  enabled  by  an  endowment. 
The  university  which  will  secure  these  two  quiet  but  proved 
men  can  lead  American  universities  in  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage and  in  the  early  history  of  America.  And  there  are 
some  who  already  perceive  that  these  things  are  worth 
while.  C.  F.  L. 


kJosbph  Le  Conte. 

was  in  the  Yosemite,  with  requiem  of 
pines  and  waterfalls,     that   Joseph    Le 
Conte  lay  down  to  his  last  sleep.     The 
glorious  mountain  cathedral,  lacking  in 
the  past  only  in  human  associations,  is 
consecrated   henceforth   by   the  abiding 
memory  of  this  great,  good  man,  loving 
and  true  and  wise. 
The  scientists  remember  Joseph  Le  Conte  as  the  investi- 
gator of  at>struse  problems  in  optics,  mountain-building, 
earth-crust  movement,  the  birth  of  metal-bearing  veins, 


240  LAND   OF   SUNSHINL. 

the  growth  of  coral-reefs,  the  life  and  death  of  glaciers. 
The  world  at  large  knows  him  best  as  an  author  and 
teacher  wonderfully  gifted  in  popularizing  and  yet  digni- 
fying science,  and  as  the  philosopher  who  more  than  any 
other  American  made  the  theory  of  evolution  an  integral 
part  of  every  intelligent  man's  consciousness,  and  showed 
the  world  withal  that  one  may  worship  God  devoutly,  and 
yet  seek  fearlessly  for  truth.  But  it  is  as  a  man,  pure, 
hopeful,  unselfish,  vowed  to  the  search  for  wisdom,  soul  of 
honor  and  charity  and  sympathy  and  good  cheer,  that  he 
will  be  remembered  by  the  innumerable  company  who 
knew  him  as  master  and  as  friend. 

On  July  6,  1901,  the  day  of  his  death.  Dr.  Le  Conte  was 
78  years  old.  Until  within  a  few  hours  of  his  demise  his 
physical  strength  was  marvelously  preserved.  To  the  last 
his  mental  power  was  unabated.  The  Comparative  Mor- 
fhology^  the  as  yet  unpublished  autobiography,  were  writ- 
ten only  shortly  before  his  end.  He  was  already  45,  and 
still  comparatively  unknown,  when,  in  1868,  he  came  to 
Berkeley  to  accept  the  chair  which  he  filled  until  his  death, 
that  of  Professor  of  Geology  and  Natural  History  in  the 
University  of  California ;  and  it  was  in  California,  after 
his  forty-fifth  year,  that  his  best  work  was  done.  The  un- 
usual diversity  of  his  earlier  experiences,  studies  and 
activities  was  one  of  the  causes  of  the  breadth  and  rich- 
ness of  the  synthesizing  scholarship  which  in  his  old  age 
made  him  famous. 

Of  mingled  Huguenot  and  English  Puritan  descent,  and 
the  son  of  a  scholarly  Southern  gentleman,  Joseph  Le 
Conte  was  born  February  26,  1823,  on  his  father's  planta- 
tion in  Liberty  county,  Georgia.  As  a  boy  he  hunted, 
fished,  rode  and  swam ;  as  a  young  man  he  was  an  all- 
round  athlete.  Thus  he  built  up  the  strength  which  even 
in  his  age  made  men  marvel  at  his  mountain-climbing 
feats.  In  \^\  he  received  the  degree  of  A.B.  from 
Franklin  College,  the  University  of  Georgia ;  in  1845  that 
of  M.D.  from  the  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons  in 
New  York. 

Five  years  of  successful  practice  of  medicine  in  Macon, 
Georgia,  brought  to  Dr.  Le  Conte  dissatisfaction  with  the 
unscientific  quality  of  the  art  as  then  practiced.  With  his 
wife,  Carolinie  Elizabeth  Nisbet  Le  Conte,  whom  he  had 
married  in  1847  at  Midway,  Georgia,  he  went  to  Cambridge, 
Mass.,  to  study  with  Louis  Agassiz.  From  Harvard  he 
received,  in  1851,  the  degree  of  B.S.  After  an  expedition 
with  Agassiz  to  the  Florida  reefs  and  keys,  Dr.  Le  Conte 
went  to  Oglethorpe  University  as  Professor  of  Natural 
Science,  and  thence,  in  1852,  to  the  University  of  Georgia 


JOSEPH    LE    CONTE.  241 

as  Professor  of  Geology  and  Natural  History.     In  1855  he 
became  Professor  of  Greology  in  South  Carolina  College. 

The  war  came  on,  and  the  college  succumbed.  Feeling 
that  he  must  devote  his  scientific  knowledge  to  the  cause 
that  absorbed  the  hearts  of  all,  he  became  chemist  of  an 
army  manufactory,  in  which  were  compounded  all  the 
medicines  used  in  the  Confederate  States. 

In  the  dark  days  of  reconstruction,  when  poverty,  de- 
feat, and  the  rule  of  the  negroes  made  South  Carolina  seem 
unendurable.  Dr.  Le  Conte  came  near  to  emigrating  to 
Brazil  or  Mexico.  But  in  California,  distant  land  of  prom- 
ise, there  opened  hope.  To  the  Pacific  he  came,  with  his 
famous  brother,  John  Le  Conte,  who  was  to  win  new 
honors  as  a  physician,  and  as  President  of  the  University 
of  California,  whose  organization  and  early  policy  he  did 
much  to  shape. 

California,  because  of  the  blessed  peace  it  brought  after 
the  horrors  of  the  war,  because  of  its  virgin  fields  for 
scientific  research,  and  because  of  the  inspiration  in  its 
novel  social  conditions,  stimulated  Dr.  Le  Conte  to  the 
highest  intellectual  activity.  His  scholarly  creed,  worked 
out  in  deeds,  was  that  unless  a  university  man  is  continu- 
ally pushing  out  into  new  fields  of  truth,  his  power  to 
teach  decays,  and,  further,  that  if  his  investigations  are 
to  be  worth  while,  he  must  put  the  results  in  permanent 
form,  and  seek  for  a  place  in  the  worldwide  family  of  pro- 
ducing scholars. 

In  his  chief  scientific  books,  Si^ht^  The  Elements  of 
Geology^  A  Compend  of  Geology^  Religion  and  Science^ 
Evolution  and  its  Relation  to  Religious  Thought^  The  Com- 
parative Physiology  and  Morphology  of  Animals^  and  in 
hundreds  of  papers  in  the  scientific  journals  and  in  the 
publications  of  learned  societies.  Dr.  Le  Conte  made  rich 
contributions  to  the  world's  knowledge  of  geology,  pale- 
ontology, mineralogy,  botany,  zoology,  medicine,  physics, 
chemistry,  and  general  scientific  theory.  With  this  went 
noble  service  to  philosophy,  to  ethics,  to  literature,  to 
education,  to  religion. 

His  worth  was  richly  honored  at  home  as  abroad.  All 
California  knew  and  loved  him.  The  students  among 
whom  he  lived,  keen  and  just  in  their  estimates  of  men, 
thronged  his  lecture  room,  knew  him  as  best  of  all  com- 
panions by  a  campfire  in  the  high  Sierras,  spoke  only  good 
of  him,  and  with  the  recurring  year  sent  always  birthday 
tokens  of  affection.  His  fellow-scientists  chose  him  as 
president  of  the  International  Greological  Congress,  and  as 
president  of  the  Geological  Society  of  America,  and  of  the 
American  Association  for  the  Advancement  of   Science  ; 


242  LAND   OF   SUNSHINL. 

Geor£:ia  and  Princeton  bestowed  upon  him  the  de^ee  of 
LL.D.,  and  in  foreign  lands  he  was  an  honored  and  a  wel- 
come ffuest  of  the  world's  wisest  and  best. 

Amid  all  the  unremitting  toil  of  his  long  and  varied  and 
active  life,  he  was  never  too  busy  to  help  a  fellow-student, 
to  listen  to  other  men's  interests,  to  cheer  and  counsel  and 
sympathize,  to  pour  out  the  precious  ointment  of  his  per- 
sonality. And  that  personality  abideth  forever,  wrought 
into  the  very  substance  of  the  University  to  which  the  life 
of  Joseph  Le  Conte  was  given. 

Berkciv,  Cal. 


A  California  Gusher." 


S  the  level  floor  of  a  land  dotted  with 

bunches    of    greasewood,    a    girl 

thed  the  sunset.    To  har,  there  was 

exhilarating  sense  of  space  in  this 

less  country.     It  was  fine  to  see  the 

where  the  land  met  the  sky,  afar  in 

itant  semicircle,  unbroken  by  even  a 

vitt.    She  kept  her  back  toward  a  cluster 

of   unsightly   derricks  which  marked  a  newly  discovered 

oU  region  in  Central  California.     A  footstep  caused  her 

to  turn  her  head. 

"You  are  late,"  she  remarked  to  the  man  who  joined  her. 
"True."    He  hesitated  a  moment  and  then  added.  "And 
it  was  not  unavoidable." 

She  lifted  her  head  as  if  to  notice  the  remark,  and  then 
looked  again  toward  the  horizon,  as  if  to  dismiss  the 
thought. 

"I  didn't  mind  waiting,"  she  said.  "I've  been  standing 
with  my  back  to  the  wells,  watching  the  plain.  It's  beau- 
tiful just  now — such  a  stretch  of  flat  country,  without  a 
house  in  sight  I"  She  took  off  her  hat  and  pointed  to  the 
encircling  pink  sky.  "I  wish  we  were  on  horses,  Rob,  and 
could  ride  straight  to  that  rim." 
"Molliel" 

She  looked  at  him  in  surprise. 

"What  is  it,  Robert  ?     Something  has  happened  I" 
"Nonsense — I  didn't  mean  to  frighten  you.     A  woman 
is  always  such  a  goose." 

"  Your  voice  alarmed  me.  Something  has  happened. 
What  is  it  ?" 

"  It  isn't  much — nothing  to  worry  about,"  he  reluctantly 
admitted.     "But — I   don't  like   it,  and  that's  why  I  was 


il 


A    CALIFORNIA    GUSHER."  243 


late.  For  the  first  time  in  my  life  I  dreaded  to  meet  you." 
He  paused,  and  she  waited  for  him  to  continue.  '^MoUie, 
last  nififht  some  one  turned  on  the  stopcock  in  the  pipe 
which  connects  our  well  and  the  Avernus,  and  all  nig^ht 
we've  been  pumping:  Avernus  oil  into  Olympus  tanks." 

"Who  did  it?" 

*^  That's  the  question.  Our  pump  man  was  surprised  at 
the  increased  flow  of  oil,  and  we  were  congratulating  our- 
selves that  the  well  was  picking  up.  You  know,  lately 
ours  has  been  running  low,  while  the  Avernus  has  yielded 
so  much  they  haven't  known  what  to  do  with  their  oil. 
Everything  they  got  is  chock  full — ^has  been  'most  ever 
since  you  went  away.  They've  been  digging  holes  in  the 
sand  and  running  it  into  them."  She  nodded.  "In  the 
face  of  that  it's  mighty  queer  that  one  of  the  Avernus 
men  should  be  the  first  to  find  the  stopcock  open." 

"But — I  don't  understand — why  should  they  give  you 
their  oil  ?" 

Robert  Boyd  smiled.  "  They  don't  give  it  to  us.  They'll 
expect  us  to  pay  for  it — at  current  prices,  as  they  did  for 
that  other." 

"What  other?" 

"  Then  you  didn't  know  about  that  ?" 

She  shook  her  head.  "I  thought  your  brother  might 
have  told  you.  I  didn't  like  to  speak  of  it,  because — well, 
because  the  Superintendent  of  the  Avernus  is  your 
brother."  Again  she  waited.  "It  was  this  way,"  he 
continued :  "About  a  month  ago,  while  you  were  away,  the 
Avernus  had  more  oil  than  it  knew  what  to  do  with,  while 
we  were  short.  We  had  a  contract  to  fill,  so  we  borrowed 
the  oil  from  the  Avernus,  to  be  repaid,  of  course.  The 
wells  are  so  near  that  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  lay  the  pipe, 
and  we  pumped  sufficient  Avernus  oil  into  our  tanks  to  fill 
our  contract.  Within  the  next  week  oil  dropped  from  a 
dollar  a  barrel  to  seventy-five  cents.  Nothing  had  been 
said  about  the  price,  because  it  was  understood  that  we 
were  to  repay  the  loan  in  oiL'*^ 

The  girl  glanced  at  the  horizon.  All  the  red  had  gone  ; 
she  saw  only  a  grey  desert  under  a  grey  sky. 

"Do  you  .mean  that  James  went  back  on  his  word  ?"  she 
asked. 

"  Exactly.  James  Oliver  sent  us  in  a  bill  for  the  oil  used 
— at  a  dollar  a  barrel." 

"  That  wasn't" — she  stopped. 

*'  Square,"  he  finished.  '  No,  it  wasn't ;  but  it's  all  of 
a  piece  with  a  lot  of  other  things  he's  done,  MoUie."  He 
looked  squarely  in  her  face.    "  Some  day  it's  going  to  come 


244  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

to  a  head,  and  then  James  Oliver  and  I  will  have  to  have  a 
settlement." 

'*I  can't  listen  to  anything:  a^rainst  my  brother,  Robert, 
not  even  from  you.  He's  been  very  busy  of  late,  so  busy 
that  he's  had  to  work  all  night.  Perhaps  he's  not  been 
himself.  Why,  only  last  night  he  had  to  go  with  a  load 
of  oil  over  to  the  new  well." 

**  You  mean  that  they  carried  oil  to  the  new  well  they're 
boring,"  he  asked  in  surprise. 

'*  Yes.  Jansen  was  too  busy  to  get  it  in  the  daytime,  so 
they  didn't  start  until  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  and  James 
was  so  nervous  that  he  grew  very  irritable,  because  I  urged 
him  to  go  to  bed  and  get  some  rest." 

There  was  an  awkward  pause,  and  then  Robert  remarked, 
**  Well,  they  say  for  every  man  in  the  world  there's  some 
woman  who  thinks  he's  perfection." 

'*  I  can't  discuss  James.    I  presume  you  mean  him." 

**  You're  not  going  to  let  him  come  between  us,  MoUie  ; 
you  wouldn't  do  that  ?    That  would  be  worse  than — " 

'*It  could  not  mean  a  final  separation,  Robert,  if  we  both 
thought  enough  of  each  other  to  keep  our  promise ;  but  if 
you  should  quarrel  with  James  it  might  mean  a  separation 
for  an  indefinite  time." 

**  You  can't  mean  that,  Mollie  I  ' 

*'  I  do  mean  it.  James  has  done  so  much  for  me.  Love 
that  is  worth  having  can  wait."  He  did  not  reply.  '*When 
do  vou  intend  to  see  James  ?  " 

*  Now."  The  word  came  from  him  sharp,  quick,  de- 
cisive. 

''Don't  see  him  in  your  present  mood,"  she  pleaded. 

''I  must,  Mollie,  about  this  business  of  the  Company.'* 

"  Don't  mention  me." 

''  I  won't.  But  there's  no  need  to  do  that.  Each  knows 
the  other  is  thinking  of  you."  He  turned  toward  the 
buildings. 

'*  I'll  wait  for  you  here,"  she  said. 

She  watched  him  as  he  walked  with  a  resolute  step  to 
the  Avernus  office,  then  she  looked  at  the  horizon  through 
blinding  tears.  "Why  must  there  be  eternal  strife? 
Why  can't  those  two  like  each  other  ?  "  She  glanced  in- 
dignantly at  the  derricks.  ''It's  this  greed  for  money 
that's  done  it — they  got  along  fairly  well  before  they 
struck  oil. " 

It  seemed  to  her  a  long  time  before  Robert  rejoined  her, 
yet  she  knew  by  the  approaching  twilight  that  it  could  not 
have  been  really  more  than  a  few  minutes. 

"It's  happened,  Mollie." 

"  You  and  James  have  quarreled  ?  " 


*4 


A    CALIFORNIA    GUSHER."  24S 


44 
44 


He  bent  his  face  near  hers,  and  she  knew  by  the  s:rim 
determination  of  the  lips  and  the  angry  sparkle  of  the 
eyes  that  it  was  so. 

It  had  to  be — ^there  was  no  ^fettingr  away  from  it." 
Didn't  you  anger  him,   Robert?     Didn't  you  think 
more  of  the  price  of  a  few  barrels  of  oil  than  of  anything 
else  ?  " 

'^Before Grod,  no !  But  I  had  to  think  of  the  Company. 
I  can't  let  my  reputation  be  taken  away.  He  wasn't  there 
when  I  went  in.  I  saw  the  tank  book  lying  open  on  the 
desk,  and  I  took  down  a  memorandum  of  some  figures  on 
the  open  page." 

*'  That  wasn't  the  way  not  to  anger  him." 

*' Maybe  it  wasn't;  but  I  was  thinking  of  the  Com- 
pany's interests.  There's  some  one  else,  beside  him,  that 
has  to  be  considered.  Well,  it  was  unfortunate,  for  he 
came  in  while  I  was  jotting  down  the  figures,  and  when  he 
saw  what  I  was  doing  he  got  very  angry," 

*'  Oh,  I  can  imagine  I    Go  on  I " 

'^  He  stormed  and  fumed,  forbade  me  his  house,  and — " 

**  What  did  he  say  about  me  ? ' 

'^  He  said  we  should  never  have  each  other,  MoUie — ^he 
swore  it." 

'*  Why  is  it — the  two  I  love — why  must  they  be  enemies  ?" 
She  covered  her  face  with  her  hands.     *'  Why  ?  " 

After  a  moment  he  took  her  hands  in  his.  ''  MoUie,  I 
have  resolved  to  give  up  my  position  here,  to  go  away. 
But  I  will  never  give  you  up.  You  are  my  promised  wife. 
Some  day  I  will  claim  you." 

"Don't  go,  Robert!" 

''Those  are  almost  the  sweetest  words  I  ever  heard, 
MoUie." 

*'  If  you  should  go  away  we  couldn't  see  each  other — not 
for  a  year,  perhaps.  I'd  be  so  hungry  for  a  sight  of  your 
face  in  that  long  time,  sweetheart." 

''Would  you?  It's  a  temptation  for  me  to  go  just  tb 
see." 

"Don't!  We  speak  so  lightly  of  a  year,  but  it's  just 
that  much  time  lost  out  of  our  lives." 

"We'll  pass  it  near  each  other  then.  I'll  stay."  She 
laid  her  hand  on  his.  "Some  day,"  he  continued,  "we'll 
pass  all  of  them  together,  Mollie." 

*"*  Yes.  I  can  wait  It's  such  a  comfort  to  know  you're 
near,  even  though  I  can't  see  you." 

They  looked  long  in  each  other's  eyes. 

"  Afterward  ?  "  she  asked.  "What  happened  afterward 
— between  you  and  James  ?  " 

He  was  called  away."    There  was  a  pause,  and  then 


44 


246  LAND   OF  SUNSHfNE. 

Robert  continued:  **I'm  sorry  I've  made  matters  worse, 
MoUie,  but  it  can't  be  helped  now.  Some  one  else  must 
finish  this  business  with  him — ^I  can't  trust  myself." 

She  was  too  wise  to  pursue  the  subject,  but  tried  to  in- 
terest him  in  other  matters.  In  this  she  was  only  partly 
successful,  and  soon  she  bade  him  '^  ^ood-night." 

Robert  was  glad  to  be  alone.  He  wanted  to  think,  for 
he  was  torn  by  the  cross  currents  of  strong  emotions.  He 
realized  that  MoUie's  chance  remark  that  oil  had  been  car- 
ried at  night  to  the  new  well,  placed  her  brother  in  his 
power.  He  was  trying  to  grasp  the  situation,  when  a  man 
came  rapidly  toward  him. 

**  They've  struck  oil  in  the  new  well,"  he  said,  **and  Mr. 
Oliver's  let  half  a  dozen  of  us  in  at  the  bed-rock  price." 
Robert  did  not  reply,  and  the  man  curiously  regarded  him. 
'^  Don't  seem  to  enthuse  much.  But  I  tell  you  right  now 
that  that's  the  kind  of  a  man  I  want  to  work  for — one 
that'll  think  enough  of  his  men  to  give  'em  a  chance, 
too." 

**  I'm  always  glad  to  hear  of  any  one's  good  luck,  Haw- 
kins," Robert  forced  himself  to  reply,  but  the  man  was 
hurrying  away  with  his  good  news.  . 

To  Robert  the  announcement  was  no  surprise.  It  was 
an  expected  chapter  in  the  villainy  unfolding  before  him. 
It  was  clear  that  oil  had  been  taken  from  the  Avernus 
secretly,  at  night,  and  poured  into  the  new  well.  This 
had  been  done  to  boom  the  stock  and  the  plotter  had  not 
scrupled  to  take  the  hard-earned  savings  of  the  men  who 
were  working  for  him. 

Robert  reflected  that  should  he  expose  the  trick  it  would 
be  a  severe  blow  to  Mollie,  who  had  winced  under  the  sus- 
picion he  had  already  cast  upon  her  brother.  Yet,  under 
the  circumstances,  silence  was  almost  contemptible.  It 
would  be  a  just  reproach,  when  the  truth  became  known  to 
the  victims,  that  he  had  not  made  an  effort  to  save  them. 
On  the  other  hand,  the  truth  might  never  be  known — it 
was  possible,  even  probable,  that  the  trick  would  never  be 
discovered.  After  a  time  the  edict  would  go  forth  that  the 
well  had  ceased  to  flow. 

The  thought  that  exposure  by  him  savored  more  of  re- 
venge than  of  justice,  appealed  to  his  sense  of  honor.  In 
that  event  Mollie  would  shrink  from  her  brother  and  natur- 
ally turn  to  Robert ;  but  the  knowledge  that  he  had  ruined 
James  Oliver  would  always  be  between  them.  He  resolved 
to  keep  the  secret. 

It  was  noticed  that  Robert  avoided  all  mention  of  the 
new  well.     He  did  not  visit  it;  but  the  surly  manager 


">\    CALIFORNIA    QUSHER."  247 

allowed  few  visitors  and  none  were  permitted  to  remain 
long. 

After  a  week  had  passed  Robert  said  to  himself,  There's 
one  way  out  of  it  and  I'd  give  all  I'm  worth  to  have  one 
thing  happen — to  have  them  strike  oil  in  earnest  I" 

He  resisted  a  constant  inclination  to  visit  the  spot.  It 
seemed  to  draw  him  to  itself,  as  a  magnet  attracts  steel. 
On  the  eighth  day  after^his  talk  with  MoUie,  he  suddenly 
determined  to  yield  to  the  impulse.  He  felt  that  he  must 
know  whether  they  really  were  boring,  or  only  making  a 
pretense.  It  was  not  right  that  he  should  be  kept  in  sus- 
pense. If  there  were  a  possibility  of  their  striking  oil  he 
would  remain  until  the  question  should  be  settled ;  if  not, 
notwithstanding  Mollie's  protest,  he  would  leave  that  part 
of  the  country. 

He  started  bravely  enough,  but,  as  he  neared  his  destina* 
tion,  he  found  himself  loitering  along  the  banks  of  an 
irrigation  ditch,  the  overflow  from  an  artesian  well. 

Some  low  willows  bent  over  the  clear,  tepid  water,  for 
the  water  was  quite  warm  where  it  bubbled  from  the 
ground.  A  flock  of  little  birds  with  a  sweet,  mournful 
cry  were  calling  among  the  trees. 

He  followed  the  stream  to  its  source  and  watched  the 
water  boiling  from  the  ground,  sending  upward  the  bubbles 
of  gas  which  had  first  suggested  that  oil  might  be  foimd 
below  the  artesian  belt. 

''Robert I"  He  turned  and  saw  MoUie.  "I've  been 
walking  behind  you  for  such  a  long  time,"  she  said. 

"  Too  bad  I — ^When  I  haven't  seen  you  for  a  week." 

*'What  difference  does  that  make  when  we  know  we  can 
see  each  other  in  a  minute,  if  necessary.  If  you're  taking 
a  walk,  let  me  join  you." 

"  I — I  thought  I'd  take  a  look  at  the  new  well." 

"  Oh  !  I'd  like  to  see  it,  too.  James  has  gone  to  Bakers- 
field." 

"  If  that's  the  case  I  don't  think  I'll  go.  I  don't  like  to 
take  advantage  of  his  absence  to  spy " 

"To  spy  ?  Why,  what  is  there  to  spy  about?  It's  just 
an  oil  well  like  any  other." 

"I  don't  think  I'll  go." 

"And  I  insist  now  that  you  go.  If  you  refuse  I  shall 
think  that  you  are  morbidly  suspicious  and — jealous,"  she 
laughed,  "of  James.    Gomel" 

She  turned  toward  a  new  unpainted  framework,  which 
rose  beyond  the  willows.    Robert  followed. 

As  they  approached  the  derrick,  two  men,  bareheaded, 
with  flushed  excited  faces,  hurried  out  and  rah  to  the 
shelter  of  some  piles  of  lumber. 


2«  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

A  errumblinE:  and  muttering:  came  from  the  earthy  and 
tben  a  grreat  roar  filled  their  ears  and  seemed  to  shake  the 
ground. 

Robert  drew  MoUie  back  beneath  the  willows. 

"Lookl"  hecried.     "  Watch  the  welll" 

A  solid  column  of  black  oil  shot  upward,  higrb  in  the  air 
above  the  derrick. 

It  swayed  and  heaved,  spread  out  like  the  fan  of  a  foun- 
tain, ^rew  less,  then  shot  upward  a^ain.  The  light  breeze 
played  with  it,  making  it  now  a  sable  plume  flaunting  and 
nodding  against  the  sky,  and  again  the  pennant  of  a  pirate. 
A  shower  of  jet  sprayed  the  ground. 

The  men  swung  their  hats  and  cheered, 

"A  gusher  1"  exclaimed  Robert. 

Skn  Fiaaclico,  Gal.  

The  Mission  Indian  Exiles. 


151= 


ff  HE  present  time  is  a  crisis  in  the  history  of 
the  Mission  Indians,  our  Indians  of  South- 
ern California,   who   are  rather  less  well 
known  to  the  average  inhabitant  of  the  centers 
of  population  than  are  the  Indians  of  Arizona 
and  New  Mexico,  who  live  in  the  line  of  tourist 
travel.      To  know  the  Mission  Indians  one 
must  visit  them  in  their  homes,  not  make  their 
acquaintance  in  Government  boarding  schools 
or  in  the  rude  roadside  camps  where  they  exist 
on  sufferance  as  workers  among  the  white  men 
during  the  harvest  seasons.    To  visit  their  villages  (except 
in  the  case  of  a  few  more  prosperous  and  accessible  reserva- 
tions) one  must  go  far  afield,  beyond  the  railroad  and  the 
stage  line,  to  the  remote  refuges  in  canon,  on  mountain  or 
desert,  where  they  have  been  driven  by  the  advancing  tide 
of  the  white  man's  occupation. 

The  California  Missions,  founded  for  the  Indians  and 
built  by  the  Indians,  remain,  almost  in  ruins,  to  witness 
what  civilization  can  do  for  the  uplifting  of  a  primitive 
race  in  a  wonderfully  short  time,  less  than  a  generation; 
this  early  work  of  the  Spanish  missionaries  being  one  of 
the  most  creditable  chapters  in  pioneer  history  in  this 
country.  The  Missions  remain,  but  the  Indians  have  re- 
ceded before  the  white  man,  without  striking  a  blow  to 
defend  their  homes.  Was  it  that  they  were  naturally  of  a 
gentle,  peaceful  disposition,  a  character  that  might  result 
from  their  simple  diet  of  agricultural  products,  grains, 
seeds,  and  the  fruits  of  the  wilderness;  or  was  it  that  the 
lessons  of  Christianity  which  they  had  been  taught  had 


THE   MISSION    INDIAN    EXILES.  249 

really  taken  root  in  their  hearts  and  minds  ?  Whatever 
the  reason,  they  were  very  different  in  this  respect  from 
the  fiercer  tribes  of  tha  north;  and  though  they  have  had 
provocation,  a  hundred  times  repeated,  sufficient  to  make  a 
white  man  rise  and  mutiny,  they  have  yielded  a^fain  and 
again,  and  there  has  neyer  been  in  their  history  a  desperate 
resistance  like  the  battles  of  the  Lava  Beds.  Thus  they 
have  never  been  treaty  Indians ;  and  although  it  might  be 
imagined  that  settled  possession  for  generations,  the  tilling 
of  the  soil,  the  planting  of  vineyards  and  orchards  and  the 
harvesting  of  their  fruits  year  after  year  might  give  a 
right  of  occupancy,  yet  their  title  was  practically  unrecog- 
nized by  the  Government,  during  all  the  time  of  the  early 
emigration  into  this  country,  and  any  claimant  might  gain 
a  United  States  patent  to  their  lands,  and  drive  them  from 
their  homes. 

In  1876  the  Government  awakened  to  the  fact  that  some* 
thing  must  be  done  for  these  Indians,  and  reservations 
were  then  set  apart  for  them,  but  such  reservations  must 
of  course  be  made  from  Grovernment  land  remaining  at  that 
time  unclaimed,  and  none  was  left  of  any  real  value.  From 
this  fact  arise  most  of  the  evils  of  their  present  position. 

But  let  it  not  be  imagined  that  the  process  of  encroach- 
ment on  Indian  land  has  at  any  time  ceased,  or  that  the 
white  man's  greed  is  any  less  unscrupulous  now  than  then. 
There  is  a  certain  class  of  men  in  this  country  who  think 
it  expedient  to  crowd  the  Indian  in  every  possible  way. 
Men  who  would  not  cheat  a  white  neighbor  will  charge  an 
Indian  double  in  a  sale  and  pay  him  half  in  a  purchase. 
They  will  confiscate  his  horses  and  cattle  if  they  stray ; 
they  would  call  it  stealing  if  the  Indian  did  the  same  to 
theirs,  and  would  soon  make  him  feel  the  arm  of  the  law. 
But  the  law,  to  the  Indian,  is  a  vague  power  that  always 
works  against  him,  and  to  it  he  never  dares  appeal.  People 
ask  why  he  does  not  assert  his  rights,  why  he  does  not 
rebel.  But  he  will  not  fight  —  would  it  be  well  that  he 
should  ?  And  to  insist  that  he  shall  be  able  to  apply  the 
principles  of  legal  redress  is  like  demanding  of  a  child  the 
comprehension  of  the  differential  calculus. 

But  outside  this  class  of  white  men,  those  whom  the 
Indian,  unfortunately  for  himself,  most  directly  encounters, 
the  world  has  grown  kinder  since  the  Indians  of  San  Pascual 
were  driven  from  their  homes,  as  recorded  in  **Ramona." 
The  history  of  the  Hot  Springs  Indians  will  prove  this 
fact.  A  suit  claiming  possession  of  their  reservation  was 
brought  by  the  owners  of  Warner's  ranch  on  the  borders  of 
which  their  land  is  situate,  and  after  being  appealed 
through  the  generosity  of  friends,  and  decided  against 


250  LAND   Uh    SUNSHtNL, 

them  by  a  vote  of  four  to  three  in  the  Supreme  Court  of 
the  State  it  was  carried  to  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United 
States,  where  the  Indians  finally  lost  it.  Now  they  are 
waiting  on  sufferance  of  the  owners  until  Cong^ress  meets 
this  winter,  when  it  is  hoped  that  something:  will  be  done 
to  provide  a  home  for  them. 

The  people  of  California  at  the  present  day  can  not  en- 
dure the  idea  of  these  people  being:  foi'ced  to  leave  the 
homes  that  have  been  theirs  for  gT^nerations,  and  turned 
adrift  to  starve  or  beg:.  They  realize  that  something:  must 
be  done.  Sufficient  pressure  must  be  brougrht  to  bear  on 
Cong:ress  to  make  our  legislators  realize  that  a  question  of 
humanity  apart  from  politics  is  still  of  importance  enough 
in  this  country  to  demand  immediate  solution.  But  the 
situation  is  larger  than  is  commonly  imagined. 

Included  in  the  suit  with  the  Hot  Springs  Indians  were 
four  little  settlements  on  the  borders  of  Warner's  ranch 
who  were  most  unjustly  made  parties  to  the  suit,  though 
the  public  has  hardly  heard  of  them.  Puerta  de  la  Cruz, 
Puerta  Chiquita,  San  Jose  and  Matag:uaya  are  tiny  villages 
where  the  Indians  have  lived  for  years  on  land  which  the 
ranch  has  now  swallowed  up  together  with  the  Hot  Springs 
tract. 

There  is  also  another  Indian  village  where  the  people 
are  living  with  the  sword  of  eviction  suspended  over  their 
heads.  San  Felipe  (or  La  Cienega,  as  the  Indians  call  it) 
is  a  poor  little  reservation  lying  on  the  foothills  of  Volcan 
mountain,  on  the  Eastern  side  looking  towards  the  desert. 
The  land  around  is  like  the  desert  except  where  the  fertile 
valley  opens  out  where  the  Indians  used  to  live,  now  of 
course  owned  by  a  white  man  and  called  the  San  Felipe 
ranch.  The  limited  tract  to  which  the  Indians  have  re- 
treated is  a  bog,  where  the  precious  water  wastes  itself  in 
a  clay  soil  where  nothing  but  a  rank  willow  growth  can 
flourish,  except  where  perhaps  four  acres  better  situated 
yield  a  little  grain.  But  even  this  poor  refuge,  the  desti- 
tute village  with  its  few  pitiful  acres,  has  been  coveted  by 
the  white  man,  with  whom  to  covet  is  to  acquire,  where 
Indian  land  is  concerned.  In  the  early  days  before  the 
Government  threw  any  legal  right  about  these  Indians,  the 
white  man  would  simply  secure  a  patent  over  their  heads, 
and  riding  up  with  his  musket  order  them  off.  Now  a 
pretence  of  law  is  complied  with,  but  the  Indians  can  not 
defend  their  cases.  Their  friends  are  not  always  appealed 
to  in  time  to  assist  them,  and  with  the  Hot  Springs  case 
for  precedent  there  is  little  hope  for  Indians  at  law.  So 
now  they  must  move  off.  The  ranch  owners  have  already 
ordered  them  to  leave,  but  where  can  they  go  ?    It  is  a 


THE   MISSION    INDIAN    EXILES.  251 

desperate  situation.  In  front  of  them  rise  the  barren  hills 
which  roll  one  after  the  other  like  billows  of  rock  and  sand 
until  they  become  ramparts  of  the  Colorado  desert.  Behind 
them  rises  Volcan  mountain,  more  bleak,  inhospitable  and 
hopeless  on  this  side  than  the  other.  ▲  goat  could  live 
there.  Cattle  can  range  from  poidt  to  point;  but  an 
Indian,  since  he  is  a  human  being  with  human  needs  and 
feelings,  must  starve  here. 

After  this  statement  it  must  seem  surprising  to  add  that 
Volcan  mountain  has  already  been  given  by  Government 
for  an  Indian  reservation ;  and  the  Indians  of  Santa  Ysabel, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  this  great  mountain  bulk,  were 
placed  here  when  excluded  from  their  former  village  lands 
on  Santa  Ysabel  ranch. 

It  is  simply  the  only  unoccupied  land  in  the  region,  un- 
occupied because  worthless ;  except  where,  on  the  summit, 
a  level  place  held  the  moisture  and  there  was  a  little  land 
which  could  be  planted.  An  Indian  was  already  placed 
here  before  the  reservation  was  made  and  a  white  man 
seized  the  land  beside  him  and  still  ranges  his  cattle  far 
and  wide  on  reservation  land.  But  the  Indians  own  no 
cattle,  nor  could  they  keep  them  through  the  year  without 
a  lower  field  for  winter  pasture ;  for  the  snow  lies  three 
feet  deep  upon  the  mountain  top  in  winter.  The  Indian 
land  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  has  been  claimed  by  the 
ranch  company,  so  here  are  also  a  number  of  Indian  house- 
holds awaiting  eviction  when  the  order  comes  from  the 
new  claimants. 

It  is  evident  from  what  has  been  said,  that  the  purchase 
back  by  Government  of  the  Hot  Springs  reservation  would 
not  cover  the  need  of  the  evicted  Indians ;  for  the  reserva- 
tion is  not  large  enough  or  rich  enough  to  support  any 
others  than  its  present  occupants.  Congress  must  be  in- 
duced this  winter  to  make  a  purchase  of  land  large  enough 
to  cover  all  the  needs  of  the  case.  A  large  fertile  tract  can 
no  doubt  be  bought  for  the  price  at  which  the  owners  of 
Hot  Springs  would  value  that  property,  whose  worth  to 
them  lies  in  the  wonderful  mineral  springs.  Enough  land 
should  be  purchased  not  only  for  all  the  evicted  Indians  but 
for  the  chronic  need  in  many  places  where  the  existing 
reservations  are  absolutely  insufficient  for  the  support  of 
the  people  placed  upon  them ;  such  as  Manzanita,  where 
fifty-three  people  must  get  a  living  from  four  or  five  arable 
acres,  and  there  are  many  similar  cases.  The  old  and  the 
sick  are  in  bitter  want ;  and  in  this  rich  and  generous  State 
it  should  be  possible  for  the  Grovernment's  wards  to  have 
the  conditions  of  self-support  bestowed  upon  them.  Our 
naturally  industrious  agricultural  Indians  must  never  be 


252  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

detrraded  by  rations.  To  starve  oo  barren  rocks  would  be 
a  kindlier  fate.  But  tools  and  fertile  land,  capable  of 
cultivation,  must  be  (jranted  them.  It  is  all  they  ask,  all 
that  we  ask  for  them.  I^t  us  make  the  request  so  imptfft- 
aut  and  emphatic  that  Congress  can  not  ignore  it ;  and  let 
there  be  no  Government  delay,  but  response  swift  and  cer- 
tain while  the  homeless  exiles  stand  waiting:  for  the  savinfr 
hand  which  shall  rescue  them  from  despair. 

ChoU  Vista,  Cal. 


MORMONISM,"     BY  ITS  HEAD. 

WHAT  IT  HAS  DONS— WHAT  IT  IS  DOtTitS-WHAT  JT  AIMS  TO  DO. 


O  tell  all  that  Mormoniam  bas  done,  all  that  it  ia 
doing',  and  all  that  it  Intends  to  do,  within  the 
limits  of  a  magazine  article,  is  obviously  impoa- 
Bible.     I  can  only  hint  at  it  here,  preaenting-  a 
close  condensation  of  the  three-fold  subject,  and 
dealing-  with  generalities  rather  tlian  details.     I 
am  grateful  for  the  privilege  of   placing  before 
a  wide  circle  of   readers  the  truth  concerning 
the  aima  and  achievements  of  my  people.    In 
order  to  comprehend  clearly  those  achievements, 
one  mast  first  understand  something  about  the  aims  in  question,  and 
a  treatise  on  those  aims,  however  brief,  necessarily  involves  the  sub- 
stance of  Hormonism's  message  to  the  world. 

Mormonism,  a  nickname  for  the  real  religion  of  the  Latternlay 
Saints,  does  not  profess  to  be  a  new  thing,  excejit  to  this  generation. 
It  proclaims  itself  as  the  original  plan  of  salvation,  instituted  in  the 
heavens  before  the  world  was,  and  revealed  from  God  to  man  in  dif- 
ferent ages.  That  Adam,  Enoch,  lioah,  Abraham,  Moses,  and  other 
ancient  worthies  had  this  religion  successively,  in  a  series  of  dispen- 
sations, we,  as  a  people,  verily  believe.  To  us,  the  Gospel  taught  by 
the  Redeemer  in  the  meridian  of  time  was  a  restored  Gospel,  of 
which,  however.  He  was  the  author,  in  His  pre-existent  state.  Mor- 
monism, in  short,  is  the  primitive  Christian  faith  restored,  the 
ancient  Gospel  brought  baUi  again — this  time  to  usher  ia  the  last 
dispensation,  introduce  the  Millennium,  and  wind  up  the  work  of  re- 
demption as  pertaining  to  this  jplanet. 

It  teaches  that  prior  to  the  Millennial  reign  of  peace,  there  is  to  be 
a  universal  gathering  of  scattered  Israel,  the  lineal  descendants  of 
Abraham,  Isaac  and  Jacob ;  meaning  not  only  the  Jews,  but  also  the 
"  lost  tribes  "  and  such  of  the  chosen  seed  as  have  for  generations 

.e  of  tl 


llttle  deaert  comm 

bas   acble 

Ted 

I  Ibe  DqIo. 

of  o 

iBBhtfBl  Amen. 

.  people  »i 

e  hBv'e  ae' 

■  ilde  of  Ibll  .Wry-T,hlch  ha.  b«, 

0  bsrped  c 

are  f nred,  br  afcit  «lMp«>ii1ea 

od  ten  Ihonaand  UDwlia  aad  rabid  oaea— t 

ormondom  to  bIts 

a  alraed  i 

ifflcial  .ta 

nlJi 

the  alma  and  bel: 

;.    TblB  be  baa  dv 

«a.    &T„n 

while  bia 

,  wort  com«  ol 

I  tbe  indden  death  c 

If  Prealden 

ndtl 

pratnblr  tlie  lait 

WbateVet 

ttalDk  of  Ibt  H*r 

moa"«ll»lon,  th. 

1  to  tbe  lat< 

ITMtOfthl 

aaal 

bori- 

utodutMieta.- 

-Ed. 

'  MORMONISMr    BY   ITS   HEAD.  253 

been  mixed  with  other  peoples.  This  gathering-,  which  includes  the 
converted  Gentiles,  is  preliminarj  to  the  glorious  advent  of  the  King 
of  kings,  and  the  resurrection  of  those  who  are  Christ's  at  his  com- 
ing. The  places  of  assembly  are  America  and  Palestine,  the  former 
taking  chronological  precedence  as  the  gathering  place  of  "Ephraim 
and  his  fellows,**  while  the  **  dispersed  of  Judah  **  will  migrate  to 
and  rebuild  Jerusalem.  Here,  upon  the  American  continent,  will  be 
reared  Zion,  a  new  Jerusalem,  where  the  Saints  will  eventually  as- 
semble and  prepare  for  the  coming  of  the  Messiah. 

The  site  for  the  city  of  Zion  was  pointed  out  by  the  Prophet  Joseph 
Smith,  as  Jackson  county,  Missouri,  and  there  some  of  our  people 
settled  in  1831,  but  were  subsequently  driven  from  their  homes.  This 
event,  while  it  delayed  the  building  of  the  city,  did  not  change  the 
place  of  its  location.  The  I^atter-day  Saints  fully  expect  to  return 
to  Jackson  county  and  '*build  up  Zion.*'  Their  exodus  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  their  sojourn  in  '*  the  Stakes  of  Zion  " — ^as  the  places 
are  called  which  they  now  inhabit — they  regard  as  preparatory  to 
that  return,  and  as  events  that  had  to  be,  iu  order  to  fulfill  scripture, 
notably  these  words  of  Isaiah:  '*  O  Zion,  that  bringest  good  tidings, 
get  thee  up  into  the  high  mountain  '*....  *'And  it  shall  come 
to  pass  in  the  last  days  that  the  mountain  of  the  Lord's  house  shall 
be  established  in  the  top  of  the  mountains,  and  shall  be  exalted  above 
the  hills,  and  all  nations  shall  flow  unto  it.** 

The  predictions  of  the  Bible  in  relation  to  the  lord's  latter-day 
work  are  not  the  only  ones  cited  by  the  evangels  of  the  Mormon 
faith.  The  Book  of  Mormon,  claiming  to  be  a  history  of  ancient 
America,  a  record  of  a  branch  of  the  house  of  Israel,  the  red  man's 
white  ancestors,  to  whom  the  Savior  ministered  in  person  after  his 
resurrection— is  also  rife  with  prophetic  references  to  the  gathering 
of  the  twelve  tribes,  and  the  establishment  of  Zion,  and  other  events 
of  the  last  days  ;  and  these  prophecies  are  likewise  pointed  out  by 
our  Klders  when  voicing  their  testimony  to  the  world. 

Joseph  Smith  declared  that  an  angel  from  heaven  revealed  to  him 
the  golden  plates  of  the  Book  of  Mormon,  containing  the  Gospel,  and 
that  other  heavenly  messengers  ordained  him  to  the  Aaronic  and 
Melchisedek  Priesthoods,  thus  empowering  him  to  ordain  others,  to 
preach  faith  and  repentance,  to  baptise  by  immersion  in  water  for 
the  remission  of  sins,  and  to  lay  on  hands  for  the  gift  of  the  Holy 
Ghost ;  in  short,  to  do  all  things  necessary  to  be  done  to  usher  in  the 
dispensation  of  the  fulness  of  times.  Included  in  this  declaration 
was  the  promise  that  all  who  obeyed  the  Gospel  should  experience 
the  same  miraculous  gifts  and  powers  that  were  enjoyed  by  the  dis- 
ciples anciently. 

The  effect  of  such  a  proclamation,  first  among  the  farmers  and 
artisans  of  western  New  York  and  northern  Pennsylvania,  next 
among  the  colonizers  of  the  West  and  South,  and  then  among  the 
yeomanry  and  working  classes  of  Great  Britain,  Scandinavia  and 
other  European  countries,  was  little  short  of  marvelous.  Thousands 
thronged  to  hear  the  Elders — mostly  unlettered,  but  earnest  and 
zealous  men,  preaching  by  the  roadside,  at  the  street  comers,  indoors 
and  outdoors,  wherever  they  were  permitted  to  speak — and  by  scores 
and  hundreds  people  of  all  religions  and  of  no  religion,  people  of  all 
classes  and  conditions,  but  generally  the  humble  and  the  lowly,  were 
gathered  into  the  fold.  As  a  matter  of  course,  the  work  encountered 
opposition,  bitter,  relentless,  and  at  times  murderous  ;  but  it  throve 
upon  such  treatment,  and  the  more  fiercely  assailed,  the  more  rapidly 
its  converts  multiplied.  Those  who  embraced  the, faith,  whatever 
their  nationality,  were  understood  to  be  of  the  blood  of  Israel,  mostly 
of  Ephraini,  their  genuine  conversion  being  accepted  as  a  proof  of 
their  Israelitish  origin. 


254  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE, 

The  Chnrch  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-daj  Saints,  when  organized 
at  Fayette,  Seneca  county,  New  York,  April  6,  1830,  had  but  six 
members.  A  year  later,  with  its  headquarters  at  Kirtland,  Ohio,  it 
numbered  two  thousand  souls.  The  colony  expelled  from  Jackson 
county,  Missouri,  in  1833,  comprised  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred,  but 
this  was  only  a  part  of  the  Church.  Its  first  foreign  conversions  took 
place  in  the  summer  of  1837,  at  Preston,  I^ancashire,  I^ngland,  from 
which  point  the  work  radiated  into  the  neighboring  counties.  Whole 
villages  were  converted,  and  within  nine  months  two  thousand  souls 
were  baptized.  Another  mission,  in  1840-41,  broadened  and  strength- 
ened the  foundations  thus  laid,  brought  seven  or  eight  thousand 
more  into  the  church  indifferent  parts  of  the  British  Isles,  established 
a  permanent  publishing  and  shipping  agency,  and  set  in  motion  the 
tide  of  Mormon  emigration  from  that  land. 

In  the  winter  of  1838-9  the  main  body  of  the  Mormon  people,  num- 
bering 15,000  men,  women  and  children,  then  settled  in  Caldwell 
county,  Missouri,  and  adjacent  parts,  were  expelled  from  their  homes, 
under  an  exterminating  order  issued  by  the  Governor,  and  forced  to 
take  refuge  in  the  neighboring  State  of  Illinois.  There  within  the 
next  seven  years  they  increased  to  20,000,  and  received  their  first 
immigrants  from  abroad.  ''The  Gathering"  preached  by  the 
Elders  had  now  begun  in  earnest,  and  year  after  year  converts  from 
Europe,  Canada  and  all  parts  of  the  Union  came  pouring  into 
Nauvoo,  Hancock  county,  and  the  vicinity,  which  had  become  the 
chief  gathering  place.  There  the  Prophet  met  his  death,  at  the 
hands  of  an  armed  mob,  while  a  prisoner  in  Carthage  jail ;  which 
event,  while  a  violent  shock  to  the  Church,  gave  it  a  great  impetus 
and  brought  Brigham  Young  to  the  front  as  its  leader. 

What  is  generally  recognized  as  Mormonism's  one  great  service  to 
civilization — the  redemption  of  the  arid  West,  the  peopling  and  dot- 
ting with  cities  and  towns,  orchards  and  vineyards,  of  the  sun-baked, 
alkaline  valleys  of  the  Kocky  Mountains,  began  in  the  summer  of 
1847,  with  the  advent  of  Brigham  Young  and  his  pioneer  band  into 
Salt  I/ake  Valley.  The  main  body  of  the  Church,  in  its  exodus  from 
Illinois,  was  then  resting  upon  the  nation's  frontier,  the  Missouri 
River,  from  which  point,  the  summer  previous,  had  gone  forth,  at 
the  call  of  their  country,  the  Mormon  Battalion,  500  strong,  to  assist 
in  the  war  against  Mexico.  At  that  time  this  whole  western  region 
was  almost  an  unknown  country — ^absolutely  unknown  to  the  people 
of  the  East,  practically  unknown  to  the  few  scattered  white  inhabit- 
ants on  the  coast  of  California  and  Oregon,  and  only  partly  known 
to  the  occasional  trapper  or  mountaineer  who  roamed  over  its  soli- 
tudes. It  was  denounced  by  Daniel  Webster,  on  the  floor  of  the 
United  States  Senate,  as  '*  a  vast,  worthless  area,"  and  the  region 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  was  indicated  upon  the  maps  and  referred  to 
in  the  school  books  as  "  The  Great  American  Desert."  And  desert 
it  was,  whatever  may  be  said  now  of  latent  fertility,  in  the  light  of 
what  has  since  been  accomplished  by  earth  culture  and  irrigation. 
Colonel  Bridger,  the  famous  mountaineer,  who  met  the  Mormon 
Pioneers  on  the  Big  Sandy,  said  to  their  leader :  ''  Mr.  Young,  I 
would  give  a  thousand  dollars  if  I  knew  that  an  ear  of  com  could 
ripen  in  the  Great  Basin."  Yet  here  in  this  region  of  salt,  alkali 
and  sagebrush,  all  but  treeless  and  waterless,  a  region  condemned 
by  Webster,  decried  by  Bridger,  and  shunned  by  the  overland  emi- 
grant as  a  valley  of  desolation  and  death,  Mormonism  set  up  its 
standard  and  proceeded  to  work  out  its  destiny.  Beneath  its  touch — 
the  touch  of  untiring  industry,  divinely  blessed  and  directed — the 
desert  blossomed,  the  wilderness  became  a  fruitful  field,  and  cities 
and  towns  sprang  up  by  hundreds  in  the  midst  of  the  once  barren 
waste. 


(« 


MORMONISMr    BY    ITS    HEAD.  255 


Mor monism,  in  fottnding*  Utah,  blazed  the  way  for  the  westward 
march  of  civilization  ;  for  in  California  and  Oregon,  her  only  possi- 
ble competitors  at  that  time,  there  was  no  such  community  of  inter- 
ests, no  such  org-anized  effort,  no  such  systematic  plan  of  colonization 
and  State-building  as  were  witnessed  here  from  the  beginning. 
While  California  was  digging  gold,  Utah  was  developing  her  agri- 
cultural resources  ;  while  on  the  fertile  slopes  of  the  Pacific  the  hus- 
bandman was  reaping  with  little  or  no  toil  harvests  sown  and 
watered  by  nature,  the  Mormon  settler  was  breaking  his  plowshare 
in  the  hard,  sunbaked  soil,  turning  the  mountain  torrent  from  its 
channel  to  soften  and  make  arable  the  rocky  ground,  and  when  not 
guarding  himself  and  his  loved  ones  against  marauding  and  blood- 
thirsty savages,  was  disputing  possession  of  his  scanty  crops  with 
crickets,  grasshoppers  and  other  voracious  pests  with  which  the 
region  swarmed.  While  the  overland  emigrants,  in  too  many  in- 
stances, were  trespassing  upon  the  rights  of  the  red  men,  and  at 
times  shooting  them  down  on  the  slightest  provocation,  the  Saints 
were  feeding  them  and  teaching  them  the  arts  of  civilization. 
During  the  California  gold  excitement  Salt  Lake  City  was  a  halfway 
house  between  the  Missouri  River  and  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  here 
the  tired  gold-seeker  halted  for  rest  and  to  obtain  supplies  to  enable 
him  to  reach  his  journey's  end.  The  founding  of  Utah  facilitated 
the  settlement  of  other  States  and  Territories  now  clustering 
around  her.  The  whole  of  Nevada  and  parts  of  Colorado  and  Wyo- 
ming were  once  included  in  Utah,  and  the  creation  of  most  of  the 
surrounding  commonwealths  would  have  been  next  to  impossible 
without  her. 

Nor  should  it  be  forgotten  that  it  was  members  of  the  Mormon 
Battalion — honorably  discharged  after  a  year's  faithful  service  on 
the  Pacific  Coast — who,  at  Sutter's  Mills,  near  Sacramento,  in 
January,  1848,  dug  up  the  first  gold  of  California  ;  a  discovery  that 
created  the  Golden  State,  and  revolutionized  the  commerce  of  the 
nation.  Yes,  it  was  Mormon  picks  and  shovels  that  brought  that 
gold  to  the  surface,  and  it  was  a  Mormon  who  made  the  first  record 
of  the  world-renowned  discovery.  Moreover,  it  was  a  Mormon 
colony,  sailing  from  New  York  around  the  Cape  to  Yerba  Buena, 
now  San  Francisco,  in  1846,  that  gave  California  her  second  pioneer 
newspaper.  The  first  newspaper  published  in  the  Rocky  Mountain 
region  was  established  by  the  Mormon  people  at  Salt  L/ake  City 
alx>ut  four  years  later. 

Here,  in  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  ^*  exalted  above  the  hills," 
Mormonism  has  continued  its  work  of  gathering  Israel  from  the 
nations.  The  first  missionaries  from  Deseret — as  Utah  was  origin- 
ally called — ^went  forth  in  the  fall  of  1849,  bound  for  Great  Britain, 
Scandinavia,  France,  Italy,  California  and  the  Pacific  Islands. 
Simultaneously  was  organized  the  Perpetual  Kmigrating  Fund  Com- 
pany, to  assist  the  poor  among  the  scattered  Saints  to  migrate  west- 
ward. This  enterprise  was  established  and  conducted  by  the 
Church,  whose  leading  men,  with  the  Church  itself,  were  among  the 
main  contributors  to  the  fund.  Those  aided  by  it,  with  means  ad- 
vanced for  their  transportation,  were  expected  to  reimburse  it  as 
soon  as  able,  that  the  amounts  returned  might  be  used  for  the  bene- 
fit of  other  immigrants,  and  the  fund  thus  be  made  perpetual.  Many 
persons,  so  helped,  owe  to  this  system  their  deliverance  from  pov- 
erty or  dependence  in  the  lands  of  their  nativity,  and  their  subse- 
quent rise  to  wealth  and  affluence. 

The  proselytes  who  came  to  build  up  the  Stakes  of  Zion  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains  were  of  the  bone  and  sinew,  genius  and  talent  of 
nearly  all  countries — farmers,  laborers,  tradesmen,  mechanics,  manu- 
facturers, business  men,  with  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  artists,  musi- 


2S6  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

cians,  writers  and  other  professional  people,  representing^  the  average 
run  of  American  society  and  what  are  known  in  Burope  as  the  mid- 
dle and  working-  classes.  Charles  Dickens,  when  a  newspaper  re- 
porter, said  of  a  ship's  company  of  Mormon  emigrants,  sailing  from 
London  early  in  the  sixties,  that  they  were  "  in  their  degree  the  pick 
and  flower  of  England."  Certain  it  is  that  such  people  were  as  a 
rule  zealous,  heroic  and  God-fearing,  to  thus  leave  native  land,  for- 
saking all  for  the  Gospel's  sake,  and  braving  the  dangers  and  hard- 
ships of  ocean  and  of  desert  to  find  new  homes  in  a  strange  and 
almost  savage  country.  And  by  far  the  greater  part  of  those  who 
have  gathered  here  since  those  primitive  times  have  been  of  the 
same  sterling  mettle. 

Crossing  the  sea,  generally  in  large  companies,  thoroughly  or- 
ganized and  equipped — the  emigrational  arrangements  being  of  so 
perfect  a  character  as  to  call  forth  in  1854  the  commendation  of  a 
select  committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  who  after  investigation 
pronounced  the  Mormon  emigrant  ship  **  a  family  under  strong  and 
accepted  discipline,  with  every  provision  for  comfort,  decorum  and 
internal  peace" — ^they  would  travel,  until  railroad  facilities  were  ex- 
tended, mostly  if  not  entirely  by  team  to  the  frontier,  where  they 
would  be  reorganized,  in  like  efficient  manner,  for  the  passage  of  the 
plains ;  an  ox  team  and  wagon  or  a  handcart,  with  three  months' 
supplies,  being  necessary  for  the  journey  to  Utah.  The  toilsome 
trip  over  prairies,  plains,  rivers  and  mountains  at  an  end,  they  would 
here  be  met  by  kindred  and  friends  who  had  preceded  them,  or  by 
church  agents  appointed  for  that  purpose,  would  be  taken  home,  fed 
and  furnished  with  employment  in  Salt  I^ake  City  and  the  surround- 
ing settlements,  or  sent  to  colonize  and  build  up  new  sections.  Most 
of  them,  preempting  and  improving  land,  at  the  same  time  practic- 
ing wherever  possible  their  trades  or  professions,  would  soon  acquire 
homes  of  their  own  and  lay  the  foundations  for  future  prosperity, 

I  have  in  mind  an  English  farmer,  who  with  his  wife  and  seven 
small  children  settled  in  Salt  Lake  Valley  some  forty  years  ago  ;  the 
ox  team  and  wagon  which  had  brought  him  from  the  frontier  being 
then  his  only  possessions,  and  the  wagon  box — placed  upon  the 
ground  by  the  roadside  where  the  family  encamped — serving  them 
for  a  house.  Today  that  farmer  and  his  sons  live  in  comfortable 
modern  homes,  own  hundreds  of  acres  of  choice  land,  with  flocks 
and  herds  in  abundance — all  as  the  result  of  tilling  the  soil  and 
stock-raising — and  from  absolute  poverty  have  risen  to  wealth  and 
independence ;  and  this  is  but  one  of  many  such  cases  that  might  be 
cited. 

Is  it  saying  too  much  that  if  Mormonism  had  done  nothing  more 
than  bring  such  people  from  the  lands  of  their  birth,  where  they 
were  living  in  rented  homes,  dependent  upon  others  for  employment 
if  not  support,  with  no  prospect  of  a  change  for  the  better,  and  here 
make  of  them  independent  householders  and  landed  proprietors,  it 
would  have  achieved  one  of  the  greatest  and  most  beneficent  works 
of  modem  times  ?  In  this  connection  let  me  quote  the  substance  of 
a  remark  made  by  Mr.  Phil  Robinson,  former  war  correspondent  of 
the  London  Daily  Telegraph,  who  as  a  special  correspondent  of  the 
New  York  World  came  to  Utah  early  in  the  eighties.  Said  he,  after 
visiting  some  of  our  settlements,  notably  those  of  Cache  Valley  :  **I 
defy  any  honest  man  to  survey  that  broad  expanse  of  orchards, 
meadows  and  grain  fields,  dotted  with  the  homes  of  a  peaceful,  pros- 
perous and  contented  people,  to  say  in  his  heart  that  Mormonism  is 
either  a  fraud  or  a  failure."  It  need  scarcely  be  added  that  this  gen- 
tleman was  not  a  convert  to  our  doctrines ;  he  was  simply  surveying 
Mormonism  in  its  material  phases.  Himself  a  foreigner,  an  English- 
man, he  had  mingled  here  with  many  of  his  former  countrymen,  res- 


t* 


MORMONISM,"    BY    ITS    HEAD.  257 


cued  by  this  relig'ion  from  poverty  if  not  pauperism  in  the  Old 
World,  and  lifted  to  social  and  financial  heig-hts  of  which  they  had 
never  dreamed.  Add  to  such  achievements  the  marvel,  almost 
miracle,  of  bringing'  tog'ether  from  various  parts  of  the  earth  men 
and  women  speaking*  different  tongues,  cherishing*  different  tradi- 
tions, schooled  in  different  customs,  and  making^  of  them  one  homo- 
geneous mass,  living  peaceably  side  by  side  and  working  unitedly 
and  intelligently  towards  a  common  end  and  purpose,  and  you  still 
have  only  a  part — and  that  a  material  part — of  what  has  been  accom- 
plished by  Mormonism. 

But  there  is  a  physiological  as  well  as  a  sociological  phase  to  the 
subject,  one  that  an  Anglo-Saxon,  be  he  B^ngllsh  or  American,  cannot 
fail  to  appreciate.  Himself  a  product  of  race  amalgamation,  and 
owing  thereto  his  general  physical  excellence  and  racial  supremacy, 
it  would  require  no  argument  to  convince  him  that  the  highest  type 
of  man  Ls  the  composite  type,  blending  in  one  race  the  best  qualities 
of  many.  The  typical  Englishman  of  today,  what  is  he  but  a  mixture 
of  Celt,  Briton,  Saxon,  Norman  and  Dane  ?  The  typical  American, 
what  is  he  but  the  joint  product  of  the  best  and  most  enlightened 
peoples  on  earth  ?  The  typical  Mormon — history  is  but  repeating 
itself  in  creating  him  by  a  union  of  forces  and  powers  that  are  sure 
to  make  for  the  physical  and  intellectual  betterment  of  mankind. 

The  whole  idea  of  Mormonism  is  improvement  —  mentally,  physi- 
cally, morally  and  spiritually.  No  half-way  education  suffices  for 
the  lyatter-day  Saint.  He  holds  with  Herbert  Spencer  that  the  func- 
tion of  education  is  "  to  prepare  man  for  complete  living,''  but  he 
also  maintains  that  "complete  living "  should  be  interpreted  **life 
here  and  hereafter."  Joseph  Smith  declared  that  the  glory  of  God 
is  intelligence,  that  a  man  is  saved  no  faster  than  he  gets  knowledge, 
and  that  whatever  principles  of  intelligence  he  attains  to  in  this  life, 
they  will  rise  with  him  in  the  resurrection ;  giving  him  the  advan- 
tage over  ignorance  and  evil  in  the  world  to  come.  He  taught  that 
man  by  constantly  progressing  may  eventually  develop  into  a  divine 
being,  like  unto  his  Father  in  heaven. 

To  promote  these  ideas  and  also  to  educate  himself  and  his  asso- 
ciates in  the  learning  of  the  world,  the  Prophet  founded  schools  in 
Ohio,  Missouri  and  Illinois.  I  myself,  though  not  then  connected 
with  the  Church,  was  attracted  to  Kirtland  by  the  repute  of  the 
Hebrew  school  that  Joseph  Smith  had  founded,  and  while  studying 
there  with  him  and  other  leading  Mormons  as  my  fellow  students,  I 
was  converted  to  the  faith.  A  university  was  organized  at  Nauvoo, 
and  another  at  Salt  I^ake  City,  the  latter  only  seven  months  after 
the  planting  of  the  pioneer  colony  in  the  Great  Basin;  and  even 
earlier,  this  migrating  community ,while  halting  on  the  Missouri,  and 
immediately  after  entering  Salt  L^ake  Valley,  established  schools  for 
the  education  of  their  children.  Wherever  Mormon  settlements  have 
sprung  up  the  village  school  has  been  among  the  first  things  thought 
of  and  provided  for.  President  Youug  founded  before  his  death  the 
Brigham  Young  Academy  at  Provo  and  the  Brigham  Young  College 
at  Logan,  and  had  in  view  the  founding  of  a  still  higher  institution 
at  Salt  I^ake  City.  It  was  provided  that  in  these  schools  religion 
and  manual  training  should  be  taught,  along  with  other  branches  of 
learning.  The  Church  since  his  day  has  pursued  the  same  policy, 
founding  the  latter-day  Saints  University  at  Salt  Lake  City  and 
academies  in  many  of  the  States.  Utah  with  her  State  University, 
her  splendid  public  school  system,  and  other  scholastic  institutions, 
stands  among  the  foremost  of  the  States  in  educational  develop- 
ment. 

Mormonism's  first  schools  were  established  at  Kirtland  in  1832, 
and  were  subsequently  taught  in  the  Temple  at  that  place.  These 
buildings,  however — of  which  the  Saints  have  erected  six  and  now 


258  LAND   OF   SUNSHtNE. 

possess  four —  are  not  designed  for  re^rular  school  work,  but  are  used 
almost  exclusivelj  for  sacred  ordinances.  The  greatest  of  them,  the 
Salt  lyake  Temple,  is  built  of  natiye  granite,  quarried  in  the  moun- 
tains twenty  miles  distant,  and  hauled  thence  mostly  by  ox-teams  in 
times  of  hardship  and  poverty.  Owing  to  these  circumstances  this 
Temple  cost  about  four  million  dollars,  and  required  forty  years  for 
its  construction. 

In  the  Tabernacle  adjoining  the  Temple  stands  the  great  organ, 
built  thirty  years  ago  by  Mormon  artisans  and  mostly  from  native 
materials.  Always  a  wonderful  instrument,  famous  far  beyond  the 
borders  of  the  State,  it  has  kept  pace  with  musical  progress,  taking 
on  from  time  to  time  the  latest  improvements,  until  today  it  is  de- 
clared by  competent  critics  here  and  elsewhere  to  be  the  most  perfect 
instrument  of  its  kind  in  the  world.  In  variety  of  construction  and 
the  massing  of  tonal  qualities  it  is  said  to  be  the  ne  plus  ultra  in 
organ-building.  A  worthy  companion  to  the  organ  is  the  Tabernacle 
choir  of  six  hundred  voices,  about  half  of  whom  took  part  in  the  great 
choral  contest  at  the  World's  Fair  in  1893,  carrying  off  the  second 
prize,  and  all  but  winning  the  first.  The  universal  love  of  music 
among  the  I^atter-day  Saints,  and  Utah's  phenomenal  progress  in  the 
art,  vocally  and  instrumentally,  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  re- 
markable achievements  of  our  religion. 

The  influence  of  Mormonism  upon  religious  thought  in  general  is 
a  noteworthy  feature  of  its  career.  The  preaching  and  publishing  of 
its  doctrines  has  had  a  marked  effect  in  molding  and  modifying 
Christian  views  and  sentiments  and  in  changing  the  creeds  of  the 
churches.  Infant  damnation  and  the  never-dying  torture  of  the  soul 
(doctrines  controverted  by  Mormonism)  are  not  insisted  upon  by  the 
sects  as  emphatically  as  they  once  were,  and  the  *'  larger  hope  "  of 
repentance  beyond  the  grave  —  an  out-and-out  Mormon  doctrine  — 
is  gradually  coming  to  the  front  in  the  reformed  conceptions  of 
orthodox  Christianity.  Other  points  of  modification  are  those  touch- 
ing the  antiquity  of  the  Gospel,  and  progress  in  lieu  of  stagnation  in 
the  life  to  come.  Since  a  Mormon  poetess  wrote  a  hymn  invocation 
to  the  Eternal  Father  and  Mother,  it  has  dawned  upon  many  Christ- 
ian minds  as  a  reasonable  proposition  that  we  have  a  Mother  as  well 
as  a  Father  in  Heaven.  In  divers  other  ways,  clearly  discemable  to 
the  close  student  of  history,  Mormonism  has  acted  as  a  leaven  upon 
other  religious  faiths.  Consciously  or  unconsciously  they  have  ab- 
sorbed and  utilized  it.  This  is  especially  manifest .  in  the  growth  of 
liberal  ideas  among  the  Protestant  churches  within  the  last  half 
century. 

If  I  were  asked  to  name  the  greatest  achievement  of  Mormonism, 
however,  I  should  have  to  speak  of  its  spiritual  triumphs,  manifest 
in  its  effects  upon  the  lives,  characters  and  disposition  of  its  con- 
verts ;  in  the  wonderful  religious  awakening  and  reformation  that 
has  taken  place  in  their  souls  as  the  result  of  the  acceptance  and 
practice  of  its  principles.  The  great  hope  that  has  been  kindled  in 
their  hearts ;  the  expulsion  of  doubt ;  the  assurance  that  their  sins 
are  forgiven  and  washed  away;  that  through  the  medium  of  the 
Holy  Spirit  they  are  actually  brought  into  communion  with  God ; 
the  promise  not  only  of  salvation,  but  of  exaltation  in  the  life  to 
come,  conditioned  upon  obedience  and  faithfulness  here  ;  the  knowl- 
edge imparted  of  the  pr^xistence  and  the  hereafter,  the  perpetuity 
in  heaven  of  family  relationships  formed  on  earth,  man's  true  rela- 
tianship  to  God,  with  all  that  it  implies  in  the  way  of  progress  and 
ultimate  perfection — all  these  give  a  peace,  a  sense  of  security  to  the 
soul,  a  moral  and  spiritual  elevation  that  passes  understanding  and 
constitutes  the  greatest  boon  that  religion  can  bestow. 

So  much  for  what  Mormonism  has  done.  Now  as  to  what  it  is 
doing'     Briefly,  it  is  continuing  the  work  begun  by  Joseph  Smith 


"MORMONISMr    BY    ITS   HEAD.  259 

and  bnilt  ttpon  by  Brig^ham  Young  and  his  immediate  successors. 
Out  of  deference  to  the  law  of  the  land,  and  after  much  suffering*  in 
the  premises,  it  has  laid  aside  the  practice  of  one  of  its  principles — 
that  of  Patriarchal  or  plural  marriage — by  which  it  had  hoped  to 
further  demonstrate  some  of  its  ideas  respecting  the  physical, 
mental  and  moral  regeneration  of  the  race  ;  but  with  this  exception 
all  the  principles  and  doctrines  taught  to  the  Church  by  its  founder 
are  in  force  and  are  still  practiced  by  it.  The  preaching  of  the 
Gospel  goes  on,  and  the  gathering  of  Israel  likewise  continues. 
From  eighteen  hundred  to  two  thousand  missionaries  are  kept  in  the 
field,  traveling  and  laboring  unsalaried,  at  their  own  expense,  and, 
wherever  permissible  under  the  laws  of  the  country  they  visit,  with- 
out purse  or  scrip,  which  has  been  our  practice  from  the  beginning. 
This  practice,  which  is  in  harmony  with  the  procedure  of  the  Apos- 
tles anciently,  while  a  severe  trial  to  the  Blders,  has  proved  a  most 
excellent  discipline,  causing  them  to  put  implicit  trust  in  God,  and 
clothing  them  with  the  true  spirit  of  their  calling.  Bvery  worthy 
male  member  of  the  Church  holds  some  office  in  the  Priesthood,  and 
is  exercised  either  at  home  or  abroad  in  preaching  the  Gospel  and 
administering  its  ordinances. 

The  I^atter-day  Saints  in  all  the  world  number  about  300,000,  mostly 
dwelling  in  the  Stakes  of  Zion,  of  which  there  are  49  all  in  the  Rocky 
Mountain  region.  A  Stake  is  a  thoroughly  organized  sub-division 
of  the  Church,  and  is  in  most  cases  coextensive  with  a  county.  There 
are  thirty  stakes  in  Utah,  eight  in  Idaho,  four  in  Arizona,  three  in 
Wyoming,  one  in  Colorado,  one  in  Oregon,  one  in  Canada,  and  one  in 
Mexico.  The  outside  missions  number  fourteen,  and  comprise  most 
of  the  countries  of  the  globe.  A  new  mission  in  the  Orient — ^Japan 
— is  projected. 

One  of  the  features  of  the  Mormon  polity  is  the  care  for  the  poor 
and  unfortunate,  for  which  purpose  the  perfect  organization  of  the 
Church— conceded  to  be  the  most  complete  and  effective  in  existence 
— is  supplemented  by  the  Relief  Society,  an  organization  composed 
entirely  of  women,  and  having  a  membership  of  thirty  thousand, 
with  branches  in  all  the  settlements  of  the  Saints,  as  well  as  in  the 
outside  missions.  Our  Sunday  School  Union  is  also  doing  a  mighty 
work,  with  a  total  membership  of  120,000. 

Mormonism  is  pursuing  its  traditional  policy — "  minding  its  own 
business"  and  doing  unto  others  as  it  would  be  done  by.  It  does  not 
spend  its  time  berating  and  abusing  other  churches  and  religions,  all 
of  which  it  recognizes  as  doing  good  in  their  various  spheres.  It 
simply  proclaims  itself  as  a  greater  measure  of  truth,  as  the  fulness 
of  the  Everlasting  Gospel ;  facing  fearlessly  all  creeds,  all  systems, 
and  inviting  comparison  between  its  doctrines  and  theirs.  Our 
Tabernacle  and  other  public  buildings  are  open  to  ministers  of  other 
denominations,  and  to  lecturers  and  speakers  in  general. 

What  Mormonism  aims  to  do  has  substantially  been  told.  That  it 
will  succeed  in  establishing  2^ion,  in  building  the  Holy  City,  in 
gathering  out  the  righteous  from  all  lands  and  preparing  them  to 
meet  the  Lord  when  He  comes  in  His  glory,  no  faithful  Latter-day 
Saint  doubts.  To  this  end  it  aims  to  institute  what  is  known  as  the 
United  Order,  a  communal  system  inaugurated  by  the  Prophet 
Joseph  Smith  as  early  as  February,  1831,  but  which,  owing  to  the 
Church's  frequent  migirations  and  other  causes,  has  never  been  fully 
established.  The  purpose  of  the  Order  is  to  make  the  members  of 
the  Church  equal  and  united  in  all  things,  spiritual  and  temporal,  to 
banish  pride,  poverty  and  iniquity,  and  introduce  a  condition  of 
things  that  will  prepare  the  pure  in  heart  for  the  advent  of  the 
world's  Redeemer. 

Salt  Lake  City*  Utah. 


WJTrFlJtMl,  M^antCMHw  enluB. 


Just  when  its  directors  were  most  troubled  by  the  lack  of  funds  to 
carry  out  work  of  crying  necessity,  Mrs.  Pbebe  Apperson  Hearst — 
already  a  g-euerous  giver — has  come  to  the  rescue  by  promising  the 
Club  $500  for  immediate  operations.  This  will  enable  prompt  atten- 
tion to  repairs  at  the  interesting  chapel  at  Pala,  with  minor  safe- 
guardings  of  the  San  Diego  and  other  Missions.  This  libeia.1  gift 
from  the  noble  woman  who  is  doing  so  much  to  further  so  many  good 
causes  in  iCalifornia,  is  the  largest  "lift"  the  Club  has  ever  had, 
and  comea  most  opportunely.  But  are  only  rich  people  interested  in 
preserving  the  historic  landmarks  of  the  State  7  Is  it  not  well  for 
every  citizen  who  can  feel  for  these  things  to  have  a  personal  hand 
in  their  conservation,  if  it  be  only  a  dollar's  worth  a  year?  A  dollar 
is  all  that  membership  in  the  Landmarks  Club  costs,  and  is  the  only 
initiation ;  and  that  dollar  goes  net  to  the  work.  The  Club  has  al- 
ready raised  nearly  $4,000,  and  expended  nearly  all  that  sum  in  expert 
repairs  to  three  principal  Missions.  It  needs  many  thousands  mare. 
It  is  incorporated,  permanent  and  competent.  And  it  begs  the  right 
sort  of  Americans  to  aid  its  work. 


S  TO  TBB  CADSB. 

Already  acknowledged,  $3,862.%;  new  contribntioos,  Phebe  Ap- 
persoQ  Hearst,  Pleasanton,  Cal.,  $500. 


The  cap  was  not  to  pass  from  as — nor  ita  uttermomt  dregs,      the  test 
We  drank  them  with  the  fatal  outcome  of  the  President's  is 

wounds.     His  death  could  hardlj  add  to  our  ahame  as  a  now. 

nation  which  has  pemitted  the  murder  of  its  rulers  to  become  a 
habit;  but  it  added  new  ^ef.  How  honest  that  grief  is,  every 
American  is  now  on  trial  to  show — as  also  how  sensible  he  is  to  dis- 
grace. 

There  has  been,  of  course,  a  vast  amount  of  hysteria,  and  foolish 
talk,  and  mad  talk.  The  dictionary  has  been  detjased,  and  historj 
spat  upon  ;  and  one  has  often  twen  reminded  of  the  professional 
"  keenera."  But  it  is  too  soon  yet  to  know  who  is  really  sorry  for  the 
iHurder  of  the  President.  It  is  always  easy  to  cry  when  the  multi- 
tude cries  ;  words  and  ink  and  crape  arc  cheap.  But  real  sorrow  g-ets 
into  the  bones.  Furthermore,  tears,  processions  and  turned  rules  do 
no  dead  man  any  good.  They  are  not  worth  dying  for.  There  is 
talk  of  many  "  monuments"  to  the  victim  of  our  ill-citixeuship — and 
of  course  this  means  a  multiplication  of  bad  stone-cutting,  of  which 
we  have  already  more  than  enouRph.  But  the  greatest  monument 
Prest,  McKioley  could  have — the  greatest  monument  man  ever  had — 
would  be  that  his  death  roused  his  countrymen  to  do  their  civic  duty 
— as  they  were  not  doing-  it,  else  he  would  not  have  been  slain.  For 
such  a  monument,  any  American  would  be  glad  and  praud  to  die  ; 
and  unto  a  few  it  has  been  given.  The  murder  of  Lincoln  was  the 
death-blow  to  human  slavery ;  the  murder  of  Garfield  crippled  the 
spoils  system.  The  murder  of  McKinley — what  shall  it  do  7  Are 
we  done  when  the  crape  on  our  doors  gets  shabby,  and  the  Sag  clinitw 
again  from  its  formal  half-mast  7  Are  you  sorry  that  Wm.  McKinley 
Is  dead  7  Are  yon  ashamed  that  President  McKinley  was  murdered  7 
If  so,  how  much  so  7  In  other  words,  what  are  you  going  to  do 
about  it  ?    Continue  to  l>e  "  too  busy  to  Ijother"  atiout  the  republic  7 

There  has  been  as  much  cowardice  as  silliness  displayed,      we  udst 
Shouldn't  we  be  proud  to  lay  it  all  to  one  lone  anarchist,  and  Take  it 

turn  ourselves  over  for  another  nap  7    Isn't  it  manful  to  houe. 

put  the  blame  of  the  anarchists  on  "yellow  newspapera"^and  stop 
our  subscription  7  The  press  is  just  what  it  was  before.  There  are 
not  enough  anarchists  in  the  United  States  to  support  a  "  patent 
inside"  country  weekly  ;  but  the  sheets  you  blame  are  circulated  by 
the  hundred  thousand.  Who  has  fattened  them  in  yellowness  7  And 
now  the  loudest  howlers  against  them  are  not  only  the  respectable 
men  who  have  paid  for  them  and  read  them  for  years,  but  divines, 
and  lawyers,  and  educators  and  politicians  who  have  been  willing 
enough  to  take  their  money  for  articles  until  the  hue  and  cry  came. 

Now  reforms  never  come  thus  by  epilepsy.     The  present      Tdrotng 
spaam  of  virtue  against  bad  papers  will  not  last  six  months,  STATE'S 

unless  it   has  a   deeper  root.     The   real  oSense  of  yellow  SvmSKCB. 

{'oumalism  is  not  that  it  has  killed  a  President— for  only  those  who 
lave  catarrh  of  the  mind  really  believe  that — but  that  it  has  mur- 


262  LAND    OF   SUNSHfNE. 

dered  our  taste.  The  fault  is  no  more  with  the  papers — ^which  are ''out 
for  the  coin" — than  with  the  people  who  support  them.  It  is  not  with 
cartoons — in  which  one  political  party  has  been  quite  as  vulgrar  an 
offender  as  the  other — nor  with  abuse  in  type.  It  is  with  us.  To 
what  child  are  you  going  to  say  that  Americans  are  so  futile  that  one 
owner  of  a  newspaper  can  pick  up  300,030  readers  by  the  scruff  of 
the  neck  and  *'run"  them  ?  Why,  if  he  lost  ten  per  cent,  of  them  for 
some  vulgarity  he  would  change  his  tune  like  lightning.  He  gives 
them  what  he  believes  they  wish  ;  and  while  he  is  mistaken  partly, 
since  they  had  no  thought  of  wishing  any  such  thing  until  he  fed 
them  on  it,  he  is  quite  right  in  feeling  that  they  are  his  accomplices. 
If  they  do  not  prefer,  they  accept,  the  vile  trash  he  sets  before  them. 
They  read  his  sheet — at  the  office,  if  not  at  home — they  advertise  in 
it,  they  are  just  as  responsible  for  it  as  he  is.  Bishops,  generals, 
governors,  college  presidents,  clergymen — there  is  not  a  paper  so 
yellow  that  some  of  the  most  prominent  of  them  have  not  written 
for  it  for  big  pay.  And  now  these  very  men  are  turned  State's  evi- 
dence against  their  pal. 

POWER  It  is  well  enough  known  that  the  Lion  detests  vile  journal* 

C~  WITHOUT  ism  ;  that  he  even  finds  some  danger  in  the  vast  and  wholly 

RBSFONSiBiuTY.  irresponsible  power  allowed  the  most  respectable  paper — ^a 
non-elected  authority  in  a  republic.  He  believes  that  this  power,  like 
all  other  power  in  a  democracy,  should  be  delegated  only  by  consent 
of  the  people.  He  believes  that  yellow  papers  should  be  abolished 
and  all  papers  made  responsible.  But  he  does  not  believe  these  things 
will  ever  be  done  by  spasms  or  by  passion.  Before  we  can  change 
our  papers,  we  shall  have  to  change  ourselves.  When  we  change, 
they  will  have  to.  Fifty  years  ago  in  this  nation  none  of  our  glaring 
yellow  sheets  could  have  lived.  There  were  not  enough  Americans 
so  lacking  in  dignity  and  taste  as  to  support  them. 

THB  ROOT  The  root  of  the  trouble  is  that  our  taste  has  been  degraded, 

OF  THB  our  respect  for  I^aw  wiped  out,  our  ideals  bartered  for 

TRonBi«B.  "deals."  For  all  this,  beyond  doubt,  our  modem  news- 
papers are  damnably  responsible — but  we  are  responsible  for  our 
newspapers.  One  man  cannot  debase  a  quarter  of  a  million  unless 
the  quarter  of  a  million  are  "willing."  And  the  man  who  can  "  lay 
it  all  on  his  neighbor"  and  be  comfortable,  is  not  built  quite  right 
for  the  citizen  of  a  republic. 

THB  One  of  the  few  redeeming  features  of  the  Buffalo  disgrace 

sii^VBR  is  that  the  wretched  assassin  was  not  mobbed.    A  coward, 

I^INING.  indeed,  struck  him  after  he  was  well  held  ;  and  some  equally 
heroic  clergymen  have  **  wished  they  could  have  got  at  him" — under 
the  same  conditions  of  safety  to  themselves.  But  an  American  mul- 
titude stood  by  American  law.  The  murderer — ^who  not  only  killed 
the  President,  but  wounded  every  American — ^has  been  arrested, 
tried,  condemned ;  promptly,  decently,  and  in  order.  He  will  be  exe- 
cuted as  soberly  ;  and  we  shall  have  shown  better  by  this  than  by  all 
the  strutting  in  the  world  that  we  are  still  fit  for  self-government. 
For  when  American  law  shall  no  longer  be  enough  for  Americans  to 
live  by  and  live  up  to,  the  greatest  experiment  in  republics  will  have 
been  proved  to  be  a  failure. 

THB  MOST  As  for  the  hare-brained — who  are  really  more  anarchists 

DANGEROUS  than  Czblgosz,  but  either  less  courageous  or  more  ignorant 

ANARCHISTS,      of  the  dictionary — we  can  afford  to  pity  them.    They  are 

children  who  will  never  grow  up.    They  will  never  learn  to  think — 

since  it  is  so  much  less  trouble  to  open  their  mouths.     It  relieves 

them  to  counsel  anarchy,  violence,  folly;   and  fortunately  it  does 


IN    THE   UON*S   DEN,  263 

not  yet  sway  the  sober  people.  We  have  not  rioted  nor  lynched  nor 
adopted  a  Kussian  censorship.  And  we  are  not  going  to.  A  little 
the  most  immature  of  these  poor  citizens  are  those  who  would  hush 
all  criticism.  Only  children  are  unaware  that  when  honest  criticism 
is  strangled,  a  republic  is  dead.  It  has  become  a  despotism.  With- 
out free  and  open  discussion  of  Buchanan's  policies,  Abraham  Lin- 
coln would  never  have  been  elected.  And  these  people  are  not  even 
honest — they  mean  only  that  everyone  shall  be  estopped  from  criti- 
cising Their  Man ;  but  they  will  feel  perfectly  free  to  criticise  the 
Other  Man  if  he  gets  in.  Such  are  made  particularly  to  be  the  easy 
raw  material  of  despotisms.  The  only  free  man  is  the  man  who 
dares  to  think  and  dares  to  let  his  neighbor  think. 

It  is  a  sheer  Godsend  that  for  once  in  our  modern  history      Thb  i<ast 
we  did  not  pick  a  nonentity  for  "the  tail  of  the  ticket."  shaxi, BB 

"The  providence  which  watches  over  " — some  people — was  first. 

surely  with  us.  Henceforth  we  may  as  well  lay  the  lesson  to  heart. 
A  Vice-President  may  become  President — let's  see  that  he  be  fit  to 
be.  And,  with  that  sense  of  humor  which  doubtless  originates 
there,  providence  has  made  fun  of  the  politicians.  It  was  not  the 
best,  but  the  worst,  elements  in  our  politics  that  "  buried  "Roosevelt. 
It  was  not  for  our  own  good  nor  his,  but  to  get  him  out  of  the  way, 
that  the  bosses  let  us  nominate  him.  And  behold  how  small  a  thing 
shall  confound  them  !  He  was  made  Vice-President  lest  he  be  a 
troublesome  and  unputtying  candidate  for  President.  And  now  he  is 
President — as  he  never  would  have  been  by  consent  of  the  heelers. 
That  smart  man,  but  gross  materialist,  Mark  Hanna,  is  dead  as  a 
presidential  possibility.  He  is  no  longer  even  a  Warwick — and  it  is 
hard  to  conceive  how  he  could  have  been  wiped  off  the  slate  other- 
how.  Roosevelt  is  not  only  President  now  by  accident ;  he  will  be 
President  by  choice.  He  is  man  enough  so  that  so  much  is  sure,  if 
he  lives.     And  he  is  pretty  liable  to  live. 

It  is  in  Theodore  Roosevelt  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  of  our      what 
Presidents.    The  only  possibility  against  it  is  that  he  may,  is  in 

from  sheer  modesty,  lean  too  far  on  men  the  greatest  Presi-  him. 

dents  have  been  greatest  by  snubbing.  Roosevelt  is  not  only  the 
youngest  President  in  years — he  is  ten  times  the  youngest  in  fact. 
He  has  more  Old  Adam  than  any  six  of  them.  It  is  his  strength  and 
his  danger.  If  he  will  trust  what  he  really  believes,  and  not  what 
someone — or  everyone — would  like  him  to  believe,  he  can  write  his 
name  with  the  highest. 

It  was  manful  and  fine  to  vow  to  carry  out  the  policies  of  his      can 
predecessor — but  Roosevelt  cannot  do  it.    He  cannot  be  any  THB 

other  man  than  Roosevelt ;  sobered,  made  responsible,  made  i«BOPARD — 

tender.  Try  as  he  may,  he  cannot  confound — thank  God  I — that  su- 
perb personality.  He  can  learn,  he  can  bend,  he  can  grow — but  he 
cannot  be  any  President  that  has  gone  before  him,  first  or  last.  He 
can  only  be  President  Roosevelt;  chastened,  enlarged,  awed — but 
the  same  Man.     And,  again,  thank  "  whatever  gods  may  be." 

For  the  second  time  in  American  history— for  Washington      thb  man 
was  a  graduate  of    the  wilderness — we  have  an  outdoor  who  can 

President.    To  a  city  man  it  has  been  impossible  to  find  takb  a  traii,. 

some  trails — but  the  adopted  Westerner  can  find  them  if  he  will.  The 
**  spoor  "  is  there — all  it  needs  is  a  man  who  can  '*  read  sign."  Presi- 
dent Roosevelt  can  stop  the  butchery  of  the  Boers  by  turning  his 
hand  over — ^and  without  a  flutter.  The  simple  knowledge  that  he  is 
against  Chamberlain's  crime — as  he  personally  is,  as  every  American 
is— is  enough  to  stop  England  if  fitly  conveyed.  He  can  as  easily 
— and  as  honorably — redeem  our  name  in  the  Philippines.     He  can 


264  LAND   OF   SUNSHiNE, 

be,  not  the  President  who  "  expanded  "  the  Repnblic,  but  the  Presi- 
dent who  saved  it.  And  all  depends  on  whether  he  shall  choose  to  be 
Roosevelt  still  or  Roosevelt  minus  the  politicians.  God  send  him 
light  to  be  himself,  wiser,  but  not  surrendered !  God  help  him ! 
Aiid  the  only  way  God  is  likely  to  help  him  is  when  you  and  I  do.  If 
we  love  and  trust  and  back  him  as  fellow  Americans  and  not  as 
valets  or  fawners  for  "what  we  can  get  out  of  it,"  if  we  watch  him 
(instead  of  going  to  sleep  and  leaving  our  duty  on  top  of  his  own 
great  burden) — why,  all  will  come  right.  But  God  never  yet  carried 
an  American  President  when  the  American  people  were  too  lazy  to. 

wBYivKR  The   official  reports  of  the  British   War-Office  state  that 

OUT-  there  were,  in  August,  136,619  persons  held  in  the  British 

wiSYirBBBD.  concentration  camps  ;  and  that  in  that  month  2,345  of  these 
"  reconcentrados"  died.  Of  this  fearful  number,  1,878  were  children. 
Now  there  are  people  so  ignorant  as  not  to  understand  what  this 
means.  If  every  man  in  the  United  States  did  understand,  the  South 
African  war  would  end — or  there  would  be  a  war  "as  is  war."  These 
figures  simply  mean — as  every  statistician  knows — ^that  the  Boer 
women  and  children  corraled  in  barbed  wire  by  their  British  con- 
querors are  dying  len  times  as  fast  as  any  normal  death-rate*  Expo- 
sure, insufficient  food,  insufficient  doctoring — these  are  killing  a 
thousand  Boer  women  and  children  for  every  Boer  man  between  16 
and  60  the  British  ever  killed  in  a  fair  fight.  Three  years  ago,  we 
pretended  to  be  horribly  horrified  at  Weyler's  lesser  brutality. 
Lesser  numerically — while  to  compare  the  Boers  with  the  Cubans  is 
to  confess  congenital  and  unremedied  ignorance  of  history.  It  is 
*•  up  to"  the  United  States  now.  We  have  a  President  who  person- 
ally sympathizes  with  the  bravest  little  nation  in  modem  history.  I 
have  never  yet  met  an  American  who  did  not.  Yet,  the  greatest 
nation  in  the  world  is  responsible  not  only  for  the  killing  of  the  men 
but  the  starving  of  the  women  and  babies  in  South  Africa.  England 
is  following  her  traditions  in  this  war  on  the  weak  ;  we  are  abandon- 
ing ours  by  consenting  to  it.  We  used  to  be  able  to  speak  out — for 
Poland,  for  Greece,  for  Mexico.  And  now  if  we  spoke  out  that 
would  settle  it.  The  Lion  hopes  that  President  Roosevelt  will — very 
politely,  as  strong  men  can  afford,  and  with  the  most  distinguished 
consideration — say  the  one  word  that  will  stop  rather  the  most  in- 
famous war  of  modem  times.  Trouble?  Why,  the  man  who  can 
believe  that  England — which  has  strained  in  vain  for  two  years  to 
whip  30,000  stupid  farmers,  would  **  tackle"  a  nation  of  seventy-six 
million  people — well,  he  could  believe  anything.  If  England  under- 
stood officially  what  is  true  individually — that  her  war  in  South 
Africa  is  distasteful  to  ninety  per  cent,  of  the  American  people— that 
war  would  stop.  And  unless  it  does  stop,  far  more  shame  to  us  than 
to  England. 

FOR  The  The  movement  to   aid  the  peaceful  and    shamefully   mal- 

FIKST  treated  Mission  Indians  of  Southern  California  should  take 

AMBRICAN8.  form  in  the  coming  month.  Miss  Du  Bois's  moderate  article 
on  another  page  tells  something  of  their  bitter  need.  Meantime  a 
few  people  have  shown  their  practical  sympathy.  The  Lion  hereby 
acknowledges  receipt  of  $5  from  J.  E.  Lowrey,  of  Sopris,  Colorado 
— ^the  first  to  respond — $S  from  Frances  Anthony,  Fairmont,  Minn.; 
$5  from  Amy  Taylor,  of  Otay,  Cal.;  and  the  handsome  gift  of  $50 
from  Amelia  B.  HoUenback,  of  Glen  Summit,  Pa.  These  moneys — 
and  all  others  sent  for  that  purpose — ^will  be  applied  directly  to  the 
aid  of  the  Indians  in  such  ways  as  shall  seem  wisest  and  most  impera- 
tive.    And  the  work  for  their  permanent  relief  will  proceed. 


IN    THE   UON'S   DEN.  265 

Having-  served  a  patient  and  faithful  apprenticeship  of      and  now 
seven  and  a  half  years,  having  fought  long  and  hard  and  an  advance 

up-hill  to  win  the  sort  of  standing  it  cared  for,  this  maga.-  in  porcs. 

2ine  now  feels  entitled  to  take  the  forward  step  it  has  constantly  had 
in  view.  It  has  tried  to  earn — and,  it  believes,  succeeded — as  high 
standing  in  literature  and  science  as  any  Western  magazine  ever  had. 
It  believes  there  was  truth  in  the  recent  verdict  of  The  Dial  that  it 
is  now  *'  a  voice  listened  to  with  respect  and  interest  in  all  parts  of 
the  country."    If  this  be  so,  its  next  move  is  justified. 

With  the  January  number  (opening  its  16th  volume)  the  mag-azine 
will  be  again  enlarged — this  time  to  '*  standard  "  magazine  size  ;  the 
size,  that  is,  of  Harper's  and  Scribner*s  and  The  Century,  There 
will  be  an  even  more  notable  enlargement  of  its  scope.  It  has 
already  begun  simultaneous  publication  in  Los  Angeles  and  San  Fran- 
cisco ;  and  it  will  cover  the  whole  Pacific  Coast  and  the  entire  West, 
with  all  they  stand  for.  In  entering  upon  the  wider  arena,  it  will 
adopt  a  broader  name.  The  title  which  fitted  its  beg^inning^  is  now 
outgrown,  and  the  time  for  a  re-christening  has  come.  From  and 
after  the  January  number  the  magazine  will  be  "  OUT  WEST ; " 
with  motto  and  subtitle  tersely  indicating  the  larger  field  it  be- 
lieves it  has  earned  the  right  to  take  for  its  own.  It  will  mean  to 
be  the  magazine  not  only  of  the  West — ^its  freedom  and  its  strength 
and  its  culture — but  of  the  new  world-movement,  the  prophecy  so 
long-  ago  uttered  by  Seward  and  now  in  actual  process  of  realization 
— the  opening  and  control  of  the  Pacific.  The  only  serious  magazine 
in  the  whole  West — that  is,  in  more  than  half  the  total  area  of  the 
United  States — it  believes  itself  to  be  the  logical  candidate  for  this 
place  ;  and  it  will  try  to  fill  it.  Without  losing  a  whit  of  its  free- 
dom, vigor  and  individuality,  it  will  extend  its  fences.  It  will  con- 
tinue the  serious  work  in  Western  history  and  science  which  have 
made  it  indispensable  to  scholars  and  libraries,  and  will  do  that  work 
better.  It  will  add  many  features  worth  adding  ;  and  will  appeal  to 
a  much  larger  constituency.  It  will  be  the  standard-bearer  of  what 
it  believes  to  be  the  right  solution  of  the  most  tremendous  problems 
this  half  of  the  United  States  has  ever  faced ;  and  it  will  reach  out  to 
problems  that  cannot  much  longer  be  dodged  by  either  the  busi- 
ness or  the  scholarship  of  the  country  at  large.  For  the  world's 
greatest  ocean  is  to  be  the  world's  greatest  highway ;  and  the  Pa- 
cific Coast  is  the  American  door  to  it. 


Many  men  the  Lion  has  known,  of  many  minds  and  many      Thb  passing 
lands — but  never  a  truer  Man,  never  a  clearer  mind,  never  a  op  a 

finer  spirit,  never  a  cleaner  hand,  never  a  surer  friend  than  /  man. 

Frank  A.  Gibson,  who  has  just  gone  to  the  Innumerable  Company. 
He  was  one  in  a  million.  A  marked  figure  among  the  bankers  of  the 
Pacific  Coast,  he  had  all  the  qualities  to  have  been  still  larger  in  a 
larger  field,  had  he  chosen.  In  literature,  in  law  or  in  statecraft,  he 
could  have  been  a  leader.  Besides  a  most  rare  mind  he  had  what 
should  now  pass  as  an  actual  genius  for  honesty.  And  whatever  he 
touched  in  his  life  was  better  for  the  compact  of  that  warm,  gentle, 
firm  hand.    God  rest  him  I 


C.  F.  L. 


ing  prevalence  of  nervous  brightness  ;  but  very  little  of  it 
rings  true — it  is  palpably  written  to  order.  Leaving  aside 
the  ethics  of  the  case — and  even  literature  has  ethics — 
the  surest  way  now  to  literary  success  is  to  know  some- 
thing ;  and  know  it  so  hard  and  so  well  that  it  has  to  come 
oat.  A  book  or  a  poem  of  snch  parentage  is  at  once 
marked  amid  the  multitude  of  them  that  are  trying  to  lift 
themselves  by  their  mental  bootstraps. 

Perhaps  no  one  now  extant  is  better  qualified  to 
write  of  Paris  of  Speech  than  Brander  Matthews, 
^"'"  whose  fourteen  essays  on  English  are  foregathered 
in  the  delightful  book  of  this  title.  His  learning,  his 
grace,  his  humor,  and  his  incorrigible  armed  "American" 
ism,"  give  life  to  whatsoever  he  may  write;  and  even  under 
so  unflattering  a  caption  as  Parts  of  Speech  the  lay  reader 
will  miss  it  if  he  neglects  what  this  fine  insurgent  has  to  say. 
For  he  could — and  would — make  "good  reading"  of  the 
Catalogue  of  the  Ships.  Charles  Scribner's  Sons,  157  Fifth 
avenue.  New  York.     $1.25  net. 

A  useful  paper  by  Ralph  Eadcliffe-Whitehead,  of 
Montecito,  Cal.,  on  Pidures  for  Schools,  with  practical 
notes  on  selection  of  the  pictures  and  framing,  is  published 
for  the  author. 

An  exquisite  little  piece  of  bookmaking  is  the  McClure, 
Phillips  &  Co.  edition  of  Walter  Bagehot's  scholarly  essay 
on  Shakespeare  the  Man. 

Better  thought  than  performance  marks  the  poems 
Without  a  Name,  by  E^dward  Blackman. 

"  So  passed  aloof  tbo&e  lorn,  prevenient  days," 
is  hardly  the  sort  of  thing  for  these  days  already  "pre- 
vented ;"  and  Mr.  Blackman's  meters  are  not  what  he 
might  make  them,  though  his  concepts  are  above  the  aver- 
age of  "  books  printed  for  the  author."  The  Whitaker  & 
Ray  Co.,  San  Francisco.     $1. 


THAT    WHICH   IS    WRITTEN.  267 

The  8tli  in  the  **We8tern  Series  of  Readers"  is  a  pleas- 
ant  little  volume  of  Shells  and  Sea-Life^  by  Josiah  Keep^ 
Professor  of  Natural  Science,  Mills  College.  The  Whitaker 
&  Ray  Co.,  San  Francisco.     50  cents. 

The  Whitaker  &  Ray  Co.,  San  Francisco,  publishes  a 
prose  Story  of  Evangeline^  adapted  for  primary  scholars,  by 
If.  H.  Vincent. 

Nineteen  poems,  sincere  and  not  without  real  uplift, 
make  up  a  little  brochure.  Among  the  Redwoods^  by  Lillian 
Hidman  Shney.  The  Whitaker  &  Ray  Co.,  San  Francisco. 
25  cents. 


Among:  the  best  artistically  and  most  interesting  of  the 
many  **  art  publications,"  the  Leefer  Photographs  of  Bible 
and  Classic  Lands  take  an  easy  lead.  They  are  of  unusual 
merit  from  the  photographic  viewpoint,  and  of  very  wide 
interest.  Published  bi-monthly  by  the  Leeper  Photo- 
graphic Co.,  Fort  Wayne,  Ind.  $2.40  a  year,  40c.  a  number. 

A  valuable  and  portly  monograph  on  the  Symbolism  of 
the  Huichol  Indiaris^  by  Carl  Lumholtz,  forms  Vol.  Ill  of 
the  ''Memoirs  of  the  American  Museum  of  Natural  His- 
tory."   New  York. 

Among  many  other  useful  articles,  Nos.  1-3  of  Vol.  Ill, 
Bulletins  of  the  University  of  Pennsylvania  Free  Museum 
of  Science  and  Art,  contain  notes  of  his  *'  Summer  Trip 
among  the  Western  Indians,"  by  that  earnest,  honest  and 
ponderable  student,  Stewart  Culin. 

It  is  reasonably  safe  to  take  for  background  of  a       "in  ths 
story  the  times  and  scenes  of  Hannibal's  invasion  ^^^^ofold  " 

of  Italy,  217  B.  C.  There  are  few  novel-readers 
who  will  know  whether  the  color  be  true  or  false  ;  and  this 
reviewer  certainly  cannot  pass  expert  judgment — except 
that  in  Duffield  Osborne's  The  Lion^s  Brood  he  finds 
nothing  to  shock  the  traditions  of  his  youthful  classics. 
But  on  the  other  hand  it  needs  no  expert  to  recognize  the 
strength,  ingenuity  and  swing  of  this  story.  The  fight- 
ing and  the  love  are  alike  fine  and  exciting,  and  the  char- 
acters have  a  good  vital  reality.  Mr.  Osborne  has  taken  a 
striking  stage  and  peopled  and  handled  it  with  uncommon 
effectiveness.  Doubleday,  Page  &  Co.,  New  York.  C. 
C.  Parker,  Los  Angeles.  $1.50. 

Tennessee  Sketches^  by  Louisa  Preston  Looney,  will  ap- 
peal rather  to  a  local  than  to  a  general  audience.  The 
little  volume,  which  has  been  given  an  attractive  dress  by 


268  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

its  publishers,  contains  seven  short  stories — innocuous,  un- 
assuming and  indecisive.     A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.,  Chicago. 

$1. 

^HK  The  Inn  of  the  Silver  Moon^  by  Herman  K.  Viele, 

^"MENCHY  "       ^®  ^  slender  fantasy  of  a  story,  a  *'  flower  of  a  day," 

of  the  better  French  delicacy  and  humor.  The 
surprising  adventures  of  "  Achille"  and  his  fair  unknown, 
at  and  following  the  famed  Pig  Market  at  Greslin,  are 
recounted  with  a  grace  which  is  hard  to  resist,  and  the 
volume  is  as  dainty  as  the  story.  H.  S.  Stone  &  Co.,  Chi- 
cago.    $1. 

The  Truth  About  the  Philippines^  by  H.  H.  Van  Meter,  is 
a  sober  and  remarkably  instructive  compilation  of  432 
pages  from  official  sources,  which  every  thoughtful  Ameri- 
can, of  whatever  bias,  should  read.  The  truth  is  a  good 
thing  to  get  at,  and  Mr.  Van  Meter  has  evidently  tried  to 
give  the  truth.  Geo.  M.  Hill  &  Co.,  166  South  Clinton 
street,  Chicago.     Paper  25  cents,  cloth  $1. 

The  12th  Annual  Report  of  the  Missouri  Botanical  Gar- 
den falls  nothing  short  of  the  interest  and  value  for  which, 
under  the  direction  of  Wm.  Trclease,  this  institution  has 
acquired  an  enviable  reputation.  A  large  number  of  good 
engravings  add  materially  to  the  attractiveness  and  worth 
of  the  volume. 

A  very  luxurious  Rubaiy&t  of  Mira  Memn^  with  tinted 
pages,  richly  printed  illustrations — whose  artist  leaves 
more  to  be  desired — is  issued  by  Henry  Olendorf  Shepard, 
Chicago. 

Prof.  Geo.  C.  Watson  has  made,  in  his  Farm  Poultry^  a 
compact,  authoritative  and  thorough  handbook  which  no 
poultry-grower — whether  farmer  or  amateur — can  afford  to 
be  without.  It  is  marked  by  practical  common  sense  as 
well  as  learning,  and  is  fully  illustrated.  The  Macmillan 
Co.,  66  Fifth  avenue,  New  York.    $1.25. 


TAi^Es  An       Anting-Anting"    is   a  Filipino   amulet,   of 

^pm^raiBs      whatever  sort,  to  protect  its  owner  from  injury  ; 

and  among  the  uncivilized  tribes  of  the  islands  the 
virtues  of  some  such  charm  are  implicitly  trusted.  It 
makes  a  good  fetish  for  literature,  too ;  and  Sargent 
Kayme  has  used  it  cleverly  in  Ati ting- Anting  Stories  '*  and 
other  strange  tales  of  the  Filipinos."  The  eleven  short 
stories  in  this  collection  are  all  admirably  taken  and  very 
well  told — dramatic,  novel  and  strong — and  the  book  is  an 
uncommonly  interesting  one.  It  is  well  printed  and 
wretchedly  proofread.     Such  publishers  should  be  ashamed 


THAT    WHICH   IS    WRITTEN.  269 

to  print  "  Senor"  for  Senor  and  *' Canon"  for  canon  all 
throug^h  a  pretty  volume,  and  other  equal  barbarisms.  It 
must  be  presumed  that  in  Boston  one  knows  that  this  is 
like  putting:  '*Spanard,"  "millon,"  *'lanard,"  for  Span- 
iard, million  and  lanyard.  And  ^Ma  Plaza  del  Carabaos" 
is  about  as  ig-norant  and  brutal  an  assault  upon  g^rammar 
as  could  be  committed.  So  unusual  stories  merit  more 
careful  typography.  Small,  May nard  &  Co., Boston.   $1.25. 

The  musical  ear,  a  sensuous  appetite,  fullness  of     pokms 
reading,  and  an  unusual  scope  of  thought — within  ^^^  ^^on 

its  scope — mark  Louis  Alexander  Robertson's  The 
Dead  Calypso  and  other  verses.  Of  the  nearly  80  titles, 
not  one  is  commonplace ;  and  a  few  of  them  are  striking. 
Perhaps  it  is  vain  to  complain,  in  these  sophisticated  days, 
of  too  much  rondeau,  ballade,  and  other  French-heeled 
metres  ;  Mr.  Robertson  does  not  need  them,  but  in  any 
event  he  is  worth  reckoning  with.  A.  M.  Robertson,  126 
Post  street,  San  Francisco.     $1.50  net. 


ART. 


A  book  which  may  be  read  with  profit  by  such  as     naturb 
persist   in   great  cities,  and  with  amusement  by  ^^^ 

such  as  live,  has  been  made  by  J.  P.  Mowbray  from 
his  papers  in  the  New  York  Evening  PosL  Its  title  is  A 
Journey  to  Nature;  and  it  is  deliciously  indicative  how  far 
the  city  man  must '  fare,  on  such  a  pilgrimage,  that  the 
author  thinks  he  has  arrived  there — in  a  York  State  farm- 
ing community.  But  if  somewhat  tense  and  conscious  and 
exhibitive,  the  book  is  interesting  and  doubtless  as  strong 
medicine  as  should  be  given  its  patients  at  first.  Doubleday, 
Page  &  Co.,  New  York;  C.C.  Parker,  Los  Angeles.    $1.50. 

Dr.  Edward  Robeson  Taylor's  Requiem  on  the  death  of 
Joseph  Le  Conte  has  been  printed  for  the  Sierra  Club,  of 
which  Dr.  Le  Conte  was  a  foremost  member. 

D.  P.  Elder  &  Morgan  Shepard,  San  Francisco,  issue 
in  very  tasteful  brochures  Friendship^  a  collection  of  nota- 
ble sayings  on  that  text,  and  loi  Sandwiches^  a  useful 
booklet  of  recipes.    Paper.    50  cents  each. 

In  The  Scribe  of  a  Soul,  Clara  Lsa  Price  professes  that  she      CBI«BSTiai« 
is  but    the  mouthpiece  of   one    "Selestor,*'   who   in  turn  dic- 

claims  to  have   '*  known  aU  wonders  that  unto   man  are  TaTion. 

sealed"  and  ''fathomed  sun,  moon,  planets,  all,  and  stars  have  read 
as  vast  papyrus  scroll."  As  the  gentleman  seems  to  have  made  his 
last  appearance  on  earth  as  an  Egyptian  monarch,  it  is  perhaps  not 
surprising  that  English  grammar  was  not  included  among  the  sub- 
jects he  so  thoroughly  mastered.  Denny-Coryell  Co.,  Seattle. — 
C.  A.  M. 


wm 


270  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

A  MAN  A  killing'  and  a  man-hunt  to  start  with,  a  handsome  villain 

OP  properly  slain  to  end  with,  a  duel  and  a  prison-cell  fairly  at 

ACTION.  the  middle — this  is  but  a  small  part  of  the  entertainment 
which  Neil  Munro  provides  in  Scotland  for  the  French  nobleman 
whose  quest  led  him  to  Doom  Castle,  He  has  a  mystery  to  solve,  a 
traitor  to  unveil,  a  seducer  to  punish,  and  a  sweetheart  to  win — and 
acquits  himself  right  manfully  at  all  these  tasks.  Doubleday,  Page 
&  Co.,  New  York  ;  C.  C.  Parker,  Iros  Angeles.    $1.50.— C.  A.  M. 

« 

JUST  Suppose  a  flood  which  inundates  the  whole  earth  save  one 

iSUP-  secluded  mountain  valley  and  the  peaks  about  it ;  suppose  a 

POSING,  solitary  pair  neither  crudely  young  nor  ripely  old  left  in  the 
valley  as  the  sole  survivors  of  the  human  race ;  suppose  also  a  pros- 
pector's cabin  stocked  with  food,  tools,  seeds  of  various  kind,  a  well 
selected  library,  and  even  white  muslin  dresses ;  suppose  cows  and 
chickens  and  cats  and  dogs.  Then  let  the  man  and  woman  who  have 
hitherto  been  but  dear  friends  fall  passionately  in  love.  Shall  they 
attempt  to  become  the  founders  of  a  new  race  ?  Or  shall  they  leap 
hand  in  hand  from  a  cliff  into  the  sea  which  rolls  over  every  other 
remnant  of  human  life  ?  This  is  the  problem  which  Ellis  Meredith 
sets  in  The  Master-Knot  of  Human  Fate  — ^and  leaves  the  reader  to 
answer  at  the  end.    I^ittle  Brown  &  Co.,  Boston.    $1.25. — C.  A.  M. 

THS  DAY  Mary  Imlay  Taylor  has  taken  Boston  for  the  scene  and  the 

OF  summer  of  1688  for  the  time  of  her  latest  historical  novel, 

wiTCHKS.  Anne  Scarlett,  The  witchcraft  crasse  is  the  phase  of  that 
period  which  Miss  Taylor  chooses  to  throw  into  the  foreground,  and 
the  beautiful  heroine,  whose  name  gives  the  story  its  title,  has  a 
narrow  escape  from  falling  victim  to  that  madness.  The  villain  in 
this  case  is  a  woman  of  surpassing  beauty,  whose  machinations  fail 
in  the  end  to  prevent  the  triumph  of  true  love.  A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co., 
Chicago.    $1.25.— C.  A.  M. 

Country  Life  in  America^  of  which  a  "trial  number"  has  just 
reached  us  (its  first  regular  issue  will  be  for  November),  promises  to 
be  one  of  the  most  sumptuous  monthlies  in  existence  ;  as  richly 
printed  as  The  World* s  Work  (printed  by  the  same  house)  and  even 
larger.  That  its  contents  will  tally  with  its  dress  is  best  foretold  by 
the  fact  that  its  editor  is  Liberty  H.  Bailey,  one  of  the  foremost 
living*  experts  in  horticulture,  and  a  man  of  horizons. 

An  anonymous  writer  dedicates  to  Baudelaire  his  Book  of  Jade  and 
his  Endeavor.  The  poems  are  clever,  **  dickydong,"  and  suggestive 
of  what  Francis  Saltus-Saltus  did  much  better.  Wm.  Doxey,  Sign 
of  the  Lark,  New  York.    $1. 

AS  si$EN  Most  of  us  are  more  or  less  familiar  with  the  shortcoming's 

FROM  of  municipal  government,  as  seen  by  the  "reformer"  pro- 

BiSifOW.  f  essional  or  amateur.  In  The  World  of  Grafts  Josiah  Flynt 
gives  a  very  frank  study  of  police  methods  in  certain  of  our  large 
cities,  as  seen  by  the  Under  World.  Neither  passion  nor  special 
pleading  appear  in  this  pitiless  stripping  of  civic  ulcers.  The  book 
is  far  from  pleasant  reading,  yet  it  ought  to  be  read  by  every  citizen 
who  cares  for  decency  and  honor — or  even  for  safety.— McClure, 
Phillips  &  Co.,  New  York.    $1.25.— C.  A.  M. 


CoiuJikM  by  WILLW*  E.  SMrTHE. 

On  the  fourteenth  of  September  the  vast  machin-       chawgimg 
ery  of  government  passed  from  the  hands  of  one  "^^  *^snBS 

President  into  those  of  another  without  the 
slightest  jar  or  hitch,  so  far  as  the  system  itself  is  con- 
cerned. While  the  whole  nation  stood  bowed  with  grief 
by  the  side  of  its  great  dead,  the  burden  of  administration 
fell  as  noiselessly  upon  the  sturdy  shoulders  of  the  new 
Executive  as  dew  descends  upon  the  earth.  It  was  another 
marvelous  demonstration  of  the  strength  of  those  institu- 
tions which  the  fathers  planted  upon  the  sure  foundation 
of  popular  sovereignty.  But  although  the  transition  was 
effected  so  smoothly,  it  is  entirely  possible  that  far-reach- 
ing changes  upon  national  policy,  particularly  upon  that 
of  internal  development  in  the  Far  West,  may  ensue  in 
course  of  time.  President  McKinley  did  not  live  to  wit- 
ness the  rise  of  new  and  mighty  issues  in  the  domestic  life 
of  the  nation  which  are  beginning  to  cast  their  shadows 
before.  It  is  said  that  when  he  entered  Congress  in  1876 
he  went  to  President  Hayes  and  asked  him  with  what  poli- 
tical issue  a  young  and  ambitious  statesman  could  best 
afford  to  identify  himself  with  a  view  to  future  usefulness 
and  distinction.  The  President  suggested  the  protective 
tariff  as  a  subject  which  must  loom  into  large  proportions 
in  the  next  ten  or  twenty  years.  McKinley  took  the  hint, 
made  the  tariff  question  the  especial  object  of  bis  study, 
mastered  it  thoroughly,  became  the  personification  and  ex- 
ponent of  it,  and  rose  with  it  to  supreme  power  and  death- 
less fame.  What  that  question  was  as  a  potential  issue  in 
1876,  the  problems  involved  in  the  wise  use  of  national  re- 
sources are  in  1901 .  The  protective  tariff  sheltered  Ameri- 
can industries  until  they  became  supreme  in  the  home 
markets  and  acquired  what  seems  like  an  almost  miracu- 
lous ascendancy  in  the  markets  of  the  world.  But  the 
growth  of  population  and  wealth  coincident  with  this 
development  has  brought  ua  face  to  face  with  new  domestic 
questions,  the  wise  solution  of  which  is  absolutely  essen- 
tial, not  only  to  the  continuance  of  prosperity,  tnit  to  the 
permanence  of  the  most  important  characteristics  of  our 


'WOT 


272  LAND   OF  SUNSHiNE. 

civilization.  We  owe  our  pre-eminence  to  the  fact  that  we 
have  been  dealing:  with  a  continental  item  of  raw  material 
— that  we  have  been  felling*  the  forest,  turning  the  soil, 
opening  the  mine,  and  harnessing  the  stream.  This  opera- 
tion can  go  on  indefinitely,  but  only  in  case  we  are  able  to 
frame  new  policies  adapted  to  the  new  conditions  which 
now  confront  us  in  Western  America. 

MCKiia,KY  But  though  the  late  President  was  not  called  upon 

^^"^  *^^¥EST  *^  ^^^^  extensively  with  these  rising  issues,  his  ser- 
vice to  the  West  was  one  of  tremendous  moment. 
Doubtless  we  shall  raise  his  statue  near  the  Golden  Gate, 
facing  the  setting  sun,  and  inscribe  upon  it  a  legend  to 
tell  future  generations  that  this  is  the  statesman  who  gave 
to  Western  America  a  new  world  of  commerce.  It  was  his 
fortune  to  stand  at  the  helm  when  the  age-long  isolation  of 
the  Orient  was  ended  and  when  the  stars  and  stripes  rose 
above  islands  and  archipelagoes  in  the  Pacific.  It  was  his 
diplomacy  which  saved  China  from  dismemberment  and 
thereby  won  her  friendship  for  the  United  States.  As  to 
the  domestic  concerns  of  the  West,  while  the  late  Presi- 
dent originated  no  important  policies  in  that  regard,  the 
work  of  his  administration  was  progressive  and  in  the 
right  direction.  The  care  of  the  forests  received  more  at- 
tention than  ever  before.  The  work  was  raised  to  the 
dignity  of  a  Bureau  in  the  Agricultural  Department,  and 
the  most  competent  person  in  the  United  States  for  that 
undertal{:ing,  GifiEord  Pinchot,  placed  at  its  head.  The 
reservations  under  the  Interior  Department  were  made 
actually  eflEective,  in  many  instances,  by  the  appointment 
of  intelligent  superintendents  and  the  adoption  of  wise 
regulations.  The  work  of  Irrigation  Investigations  was 
entrusted  by  Secretary  Wilson  to  the  ablest  and  most  ex- 
perienced person  who  could  possibly  have  been  chosen — 
Elwood  Mead — and  the  result  is  already  seen  in  reports 
which  penetrate  to  the  root  of  existing  evils.  Hence,  the 
people  of  the  West,  even  if  they  look  upon  him  from  the 
narrow  standpoint  of  their  own  selfish  interests,  may  well 
bow  in  sorrow  and  gratitude  at  the  tomb  of  our  third 
martyred  President,  William  McKinley.  His  name  and 
fame  will  bloom  immortal  among  our  valleys  and  mountains 
and  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

RoosBvEvr  President  Theodore  Roosevelt,  in  his  short  but  in- 

•*  OF  ARID  tensely  active  life,   has  come  into  contact  with 

AM  Ri    .         xnany  different  phases  of  the  national  existence. 

He  remarked,  a  few  months  since,  '*  Although  I  am  of  the 

sixth  generation  born  in  New  York,  I  belong  West  of  the 

Missouri  River."    He  is  naturally  a  man  of  the  Western 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  273 

temperament — active,  impatient  of  conventions,  filled  with 
the  spirit  of  daring:  enterprise.  For  about  ten  years  he 
spent  his  time  largely  in  North  Dakota,  near  the  Montana 
boundary,  well  within  the  Arid  Region.  He  knows  the 
problems  of  irrigation,  of  the  forests,  and  of  the  grazing 
lands  as  they  were  never  known  or  even  suspected  by  any 
other  President  of  the  United  States.  He  sent  a  ringing 
letter  to  last  year's  session  of  the  National  Irrigation  Con- 
gress, in  which  he  put  himself  squarely  on  record  in  favor 
of  the  construction  of  great  public  works  to  reclaim  pub- 
lic lands.  And  he  also  took  advantage  of  the  opportunity 
to  say  that  such  works  cannot  be  built  by  private  capital, 
and  that  it  would  be  undesirable  to  permit  private  capital 
to  engage  in  it  even  if  such  a  thing  were  possible.  The 
full  significance  of  the  accession  to  the  Presidency  of  a 
man  having  such  knowledge  of  Western  needs  and  re- 
sources, and  such  views  of  what  the  national  policy  should 
be  respecting  them,  may  only  be  revealed  by  events.  But 
that  large  class  of  Western  men  to  whom  the  cause  of  irri- 
gation is  dearer  than  any  party  ties,  must  rejoice  that  the 
man  who  succeeds  our  lamented  President  knows  and  loves 
our  beautiful  West,  and  is  not  ashamed  to  say  so. 

During  a  good  portion  of  last  year  eight  well      studies 
known  experts  devoted  their  best  efforts  to  a  study  ^^  ^experts 

of  California  irrigation  laws  from  the  most  prac- 
tical standpoint.  They  did  not  deal  with  the  matter  ab- 
stractly, but  in  the  most  concrete  way,  going  right  out 
into  the  field  and  studying  the  actual  workings  of  the  laws 
on  a  number  of  typical  streams.  Marsden  Manson  took 
the  Yuba  and  J.  M.  Wilson  Cache  Creek,  in  Sacramento 
Valley  ;  C.  E.  Grunsky,  Kings  River,  and  Prank  Soule 
the  San  Joaquin  in  the  valley  of  that  name ;  C.  D.  Marx, 
the  Salinas,  in  the  Coast  Region ;  E.  M.  Boggs,  the  Los 
Angeles  River,  and  J.  D.  Schuyler,  the  Sweetwater  and 
Hemet  Creek,  in  Southern  California;  and  William  E. 
Smythe,  the  Honey  Lake  Basin  on  the  Eastern  slope  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  The  work  was  done  under  the 
auspices  of  the  United  States  government  and  under  the 
personal  direction  of  its  expert,  Elwood  Mead.  It  was  an 
absolutely  impartial  investigation.  The  instructions  were 
to  study  the  California  laws  and  then  trace  the  results 
arising  therefrom  through  the  records  of  appropriations, 
lawsuits  and  decrees,  and  through  a  careful  study  of  re- 
sults conducted  in  the  field.  Elsewhere  in  these  pages  is 
the  first  of  several  papers  devoted  to  a  summary  of  the  re- 
port. It  is  not  our  purpose  to  anticipate  the  evidence.  We 
wish  every  man  and  woman  in  California  might  read  the 
report  in  its  entirety,  but  we  know  the  unpopularity  of 


274  LAND   OF   SUNSHiNE. 

public  documents,  even  when  issued  in  such  handsome 
shape  as  this  one.  It  is  likely,  therefore,  that  most  people 
will  become  familiar  with  the  report  through  the  summaries 
that  appear  in  the  press  and  the  public  discussion  that  will 
ensue.  There  are  a  few  general  considerations,  however, 
to  which  attention  should  now  be  directed. 

WORTHY  OF  The  report  is  in  no  sense  special  pleading.     It  was 

^^5^«««*^^       written  by  men  of  trained  intelligence  who  are 

CONFIDENCB.  ,  1-j.-    •  J  X      'J       j.'£    J         'At 

not  politicians  and  not  identmed  with  private 
interests  which  they  are  seeking  to  put  forward.  The 
head  of  the  investigation  is  a  public  man  of  wide  experi- 
ence, now  representing  the  United  States  government.  Of 
the  other  experts,  four  are  civil  engineers  of  great  reputa- 
tion, two  are  the  heads,  respectively,  of  the  engineering 
departments  at  Stanford  and  the  University  of  California, 
one  is  former  State  Engineer  of  Nebraska  and  now  regu- 
larly employed  by  the  Agricultural  Department,  and  the 
other  is  a  journalist  and  publicist.  Their  general  instruc- 
tions were  to  be  absolutely  fearless  in  presenting  their  con- 
clusions. If  such  a  report  is  not  entitled  to  public  confi- 
dence it  would  be  interesting  to  be  told  under  what  different 
conditions  a  better  report  could  be  expected.  While  the 
investigation  deals  exclusively  with  California,  it  has  a 
much  broader  significance  for  the  public.  The  conditions 
existing  here  are  similar  in  most  respects  to  those  prevail- 
ing throughout  the  Arid  Region.  Moreover,  this  is  the 
greatest  State  in  the  West  and  is  naturally  looked  to  for 
leadership  in  the  adoption  of  policies  that  are  to  rule  the 
destinies  of  Western  America.  The  four  great  points  to 
be  studied  in  the  report  are,  first,  the  method  of  appropria- 
ting waters,  since  this  is  the  foundation  of  valuable  rights; 
second,  the  means  by  which  water  is  distributed  among  a 
multitude  of  users  ;  third,  the  question  of  riparian  rights  ; 
fourth,  the  ownership  of  water,  which  involves  the  vital 
matter  of  water  monopoly  in  a  region  where  this  element 
is  absolutely  vital  to  human  existence.  The  influence  of 
this  report  should  powerfully  assist  in  the  evolution  of  a 
new  and  better  California  and  in  the  growth  of  beneficent 
institutions  throughout  all  our  Western  lands. 

puBucAND  The  discussion  of   this  report  will  serve  to  call 

^  AM>^LANDS        public  atteutiott  sharply  to  the  fact  that  irrigation 

laws  are  matters  for  State  legislation  and,  by  the 
same  token,  that  national  irrigation,  whatever  its  merits 
may  be,  is  entirely  inadequate  to  the  solution  of  our  water 
problems.  There  is  no  conflict  between  State  and  national 
irrigation  in  the  minds  of  those  familiar  with  the  whole 
subject.     They  occupy  two  distinct  spheres  of  action.    We 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  275 

want  the  nation  to  lend  its  assistance  in  reclaiming  our 
public  lands.  In  Nevada,  for  instance,  95  per  cent  of  all 
the  soil  belongs  to  the  national  government.  No  power 
except  Congress  can  legislate  concerning  it.  Present  laws 
are  wholly  unsuited  to  the  development  of  this  national 
property.  We  look  to  the  nation  to  develop  policies  and 
furnish  appropriations  by  which  the  irrigable  portions  of 
these  lands  may  be  made  ready  for  settlement  and  by  which 
the  timber  and  grazing  districts  may  be  more  wisely  ad- 
ministered. But  the  control  of  waters  in  non-navigable 
streams,  so  far  as  their  appropriation  and  distribution  is 
concerned,  belongs  to  the  States  themselves.  The  nation 
could  not  deprive  them  of  their  rights  and  obligations  in 
this  respect,  nor  would  it  do  so  if  it  could.  It  has  troubles 
enough  of  its  own.  We  must  ourselves  reform  the  water 
laws  of  the  several  States  and  provide  good  systems  of  ad- 
ministration. But  in  California  the  limitations  of  national 
irrigation  are  much  more  severe.  There  are  irrigable  lands 
which  belong  to  the  public  on  the  Eastern  slope  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada  Mountains — in  Lassen,  Modoc,  Inyo,  and 
Mono  counties — and  in  the  great  deserts  of  the  Mojave 
and  Colorado.  But  it  is  not  for  the  watering  of  these  lands 
that  California  suflFers  most  keenly  today.  It  is  the  great 
arid  districts  of  Southern  California,  of  the  Coast  Region, 
of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  Valleys,  that  should 
be  irrigated  by  the  storage  of  flood  water  and  the  econom- 
ical distribution  of  all  available  supplies.  It  is  here  that 
the  wealth  and  population  of  the  State  are  to  be  multiplied 
many-fold.  This  is  the  problem  which  presses  close  upon 
us,  the  solution  of  which  alone  can  put  an  end  to  present 
stagnation  in  settlement  and  existing  distress  in  irrigation 
districts  and  other  communities  harried  by  endless  litiga- 
tion. Does  national  irrigation  touch  this  problem  ?  Not 
at  all.  These  lands  are  arid  or  semi-arid  and  cry  aloud  for 
reclamation.  But  they  are  not  public  lands.  They  are 
private  lands,  large  portions  of  which  have  been  cultivated, 
fenced,  and  otherwise  improved.  Does  any  advocate  of 
national  irrigation  imagine  that  his  policy — beneficient  as 
it  will  be  in  other  States  and,  indirectly,  to  California,  as 
a  means  of  increasing  its  trade  with  the  interior — can  be 
depended  upon  to  furnish  water  for  the  private  estates  of 
the  South,  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  and  of  the 
Coast  Region  ?  Surely  no  one  can  delude  himself  with  a 
hope  so  vain  as  that.  We  shall  induce  the  nation  to  re- 
claim the  arid  public  lands,  but  the  construction  of  great 
works  for  watering  the  enormous  area  of  private  lands 
whereon  the  future  millions  are  to  dwell  is  our  own  problem, 
destined  to  abide  with  us  for  ever. 


276  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

BATTi^K  OF  The  forces  of  cooperation  and  of  competition  are 

^^^GRowOTs       wagringr  a  battle  royal  in  the  raisin  districts.    The 

issue  of  the  conflict  is  not  clear  at  this  writing-, 
but  its  merits  are  plain  enough.  No  industry  on  this  coast 
has  been  subject  to  fluctuations  more  frequent  and  disas- 
trous than  that  of  raisin-growing.  It  has  made  fortunes 
and  ruined  fortunes  in  alternate  years.  It  has  been  in  the 
highest  degree  a  speculative  crop,  its  character  as  such 
only  enhanced  by  the  fact  that  comparatively  little  capital 
and  time  were  required  to  bring  a  good  vineyard  into  exist- 
ence. It  was  quickly  found  that  the  producers "  were  com- 
pletely at  the  mercy  of  those  who  control  the  market  so 
long  as  they  were  not  organized.  M.  Theo.  Kearney 
taught  them  the  secret  of  organization,  and  made  it  possi- 
ble for  them  to  dictate  the  price  of  the  crop  to  the  packers. 
His  original  plan  went  further.  He  wanted  the  producers 
not  only  to  control  the  crop,  but  to  own  the  packing- 
houses, so  that  nothing  should  stand  between  them  and  the 
consuming  public.  Though  his  policy  raised  the  price  of 
the  product  to  such  an  altitude  that  prosperity  was  made 
universal,  he  was  deposed  for  a  time.  After  his  recall  to 
leadership,  Mr.  Kearney  made  up  his  mind  to  put  an  end 
forever  to  competition  in  the  sale  of  raisins.  A  consider- 
able proportion  of  the  growers  had  remained  out  of  the 
Association.  They  were  benefited,  of  course,  by  the  higher 
prices,  but  by  keeping  out  of  the  organization  they  were 
always  in  a  position  to  offer  their  crop  to  the  packers  at  a 
little  less  than  the  standard  rate,  thus  taking  advantage  of 
any  temporary  stagnation  in  the  market,  and  disposing  of 
their  product  in  advance  of  the  Association.  Mr.  Kearney 
decided  that  the  way  to  put  a  stop  to  this  ruinous  system 
was  to  announce  that  unless  practically  all  the  growers 
joined  the  Association,  and  stood  shoulder  to  shoulder  for 
mutual  protection,  the  price  of  raisins  should  be  two  cents 
a  pound.  *' And  we  will  all  go  down  into  the  gutter  to- 
gether," he  boldly  proclaimed.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the 
growers  united  the  price  would  be  fixed  at  five  cents  a 
pound,  which  means  prosperity  for  all.  Establishing  his 
headquarters  in  New  York,  he  notified  the  trade  that 
raisins  would  sell  at  two  cents  shortly  unless  the  growers 
signed  the  leases  in  response  to  his  appeal.  This  smashed 
the  market,  as  no  one  would  buy  at  a  higher  price  with  this 
prospect  in  view.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  Mr.  Kearney's 
policy  was  arbitrary.  No  more  can  it  be  denied  that  it 
was  brave,  sensible,  and  framed  in  the  highest  interest  of 
the  industry.  The  Association  must  rule  or  go  to  pieces. 
If  it  goes  to  pieces,  those  who  wish  to  buy  raisins  as 
cheaply,  and  sell  them  as  dearly,  as  possible  will  control  the 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST,  277 

situation.  The  producers  will  be  at  their  mercy.  Had 
they  rather  be  at  the  mercy  of  that  interest,  or  at  the 
mercy  of  an  Association  directed  by  men  whose  fortunes 
are  at  stake  in  raisin  vineyards  and  who  themselves  must 
share  in  the  prosperity  or  disaster  which  comes  to  the  in- 
dustry as  a  whole  ?  It  seems  to  us  that  there  cannot  be  a 
moment's  question  as  to  which  road  they  should  choose. 
The  raisin  business  has  become  too  larg^e  for  the  old  condi- 
tions which  existed  when  the  production  was  small  and 
when  the  laws  of  competition  could  safely  be  trusted  to 
bring  a  g^ood  result.  This  is  the  day  of  large  affairs,  of 
combination.  God  helps  those  who  help  themselves,  and 
those  producers  who  do  not  help  themselves  will  soon  find 
that  they  need  God's  help  indeed  I 

About  the  only  important  product  of    the  soil       and  thk 
which  has  not  come  under  the  influence  of  co-  ^^^^stoo. 

operation  in  California  is  wheat.  Although  it 
still  persists,  and  upon  a  very  large  scale,  this  has  for 
many  years  seemed  like  a  doomed  industry.  The  constant 
cropping  to  a  single  cereal  has  so  impoverished  the  soil 
and  reduced  the  yield,  the  competition  of  cheap  labor  in 
India,  Egypt,  and  South  America,  and  the  introduction  of 
improved  machinery  in  other  lands,  has  so  altered  the  con- 
ditions of  the  markets,  that  it  appeared  as  if  wheat-grow- 
ing might  be  destined  to  gradual  extinction  The  friends 
of  irrigation  have  hoped  that  this  situation  would  lead  to 
a  revolution  in  farming  methods,  with  artificial  watering, 
subdivision  of  estates,  and  diversified  production  as  its 
moving  forces.  But  it  seems  that  the  wheat-growers  will 
make  an  effort  to  better  their  conditions  through  coopera- 
tion. Those  two  strong  men  of  the  Sacramento  Valley — 
N.  P.  Chipman  and  Will  S.  Green — ^have  been  hinting  at 
such  things  for  some  years.  A  meeting  was  recently  held 
to  take  steps  looking  to  the  organization  of  something 
like  a  Trust  among  the  wheat-men.  The  object  would  be 
to  put  the  entire  grain  product  of  the'  Sacramento  Valley 
into  the  hands  of  one  strong  organization,  with  a  view  to 
securing  better  markets,  prices,  and  transportation  facili- 
ties. This  is  certainly  an  amazing  development  of  the 
cooperative  spirit,  but  none  the  less  hopeful  on  that  ac- 
count. Such  an  organization  could  go  to  work  intelli- 
gently to  engage  ships  for  moving  the  crop.  The  difficul- 
ties on  that  score  are  now  very  serious.  When  the  control 
of  the  entire  crop  is  given  to  a  single  organization  the 
ship-owners  will  find  that  they  aire  confronted  by  "  a  con- 
dition, not  a  theory."  The  growers  will  also  be  able  to 
enter  the  Oriental  market  and  develop  it  extensively.  Very 
likely  they  will  effect  important  economies  in  storing  their 


278  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

crop  at  points  of  shipment.  On  the  whole,  it  looks  to  us 
that  this  gigantic  cooperative  undertaking  may  be  feasi- 
ble, while  it  is  surely  encouraging  to  those  who  believe  in 
the  principle  of  union  for  the  common  good.  If  such  a  re- 
sult is  realized  it  will  be  due  to  the  fact  that  the  wheat- 
growers  have  suffered  until  they  simply  had  to  do  some- 
thing. This  is  the  invariable  experience  of  humanity.  We 
learn  only  through  suffering.  The  god  of  Progress  is 
armed  with  a  club. 

^  ^^  By  the  way,  there  was  an  interesting  ceremony  at 

^*^^^5J  „       the  little  town  of  Kingsburg,  in  the  San  Joaquin 

Valley,  a  few  weeks  since.  The  occasion  was  the 
dedication  of  the  Kingsburg  Rochdale  Building.  Here, 
under  one  roof,  are  assembled  the  cooperative  store,  pro- 
fessional and  public  offices,  and  the  public  library.  Prac- 
tically the  entire  business  of  this  prosperous  community 
will  be  conducted  in  this  building.  But  it  is  more  than  a 
business  center — it  is  a  social,  intellectual,  and  religious 
center.  It  owes  its  existence  not  to  kind-hearted  million- 
aires, but  to  sensible  farmers  and  workingmen  who  have 
united  their  capital  so  that  they  may  work  together  in  the 
purchase  of  their  supplies  and  sale  of  their  products,  after 
the  manner  of  the  Rochdale  pioneers,  described  in  Pro- 
fessor Fowler's  article  in  the  last  number  of  this  magazine. 
The  high  ideal  animating  the  Kingsburg  people  is  well 
shown  by  the  following  extract  from  President  Hallner's 
allusion  to  Rochdale  Hall,  which  forms  a  part  of  the  build- 
ing: 

This  18  intended  to  be  a  "Faneuil  HaU",  a  "cradle  of  Uberty" 
and  we  invite  the  Patrick  Henrys  and  James  Otises,  the  Garrisons, 
the  Lrovejoys,  the  WendeU  Phillipses,  the  Lincolns,  the  Mother 
Stewarts  and  Thompsons,  and  women  crusaders,  including*  the 
Frances  Willards  and  the  whole  army  of  the  Women's  Christian 
Temperance  Union,  and  the  Dickies,  the  Woolleys,  and  the  good  and 
plump  Wheat,  and  our  own  Professor  Fowler — all  these  and  aU 
their  friends,  associates  and  affinities  who  only  cleave  to  the  pure, 
the  true  and  the  good. 

Just  imagine  what  California  would  be  if  brought  under 
a  good  system  of  irrigation,  divided  into  millions  of  little 
farms,  and  with  such  ''cradles  of  liberty"  as  that  at 
Kingsburg  located  in  every  community  I  It  makes  one  feel 
like  exclaiming,  with  the  optimistic  poet : 

"  We'll  all  be  happy  yet 
You  bet !  " 


279 

How  TO  Colonize  the  Pacific  Coast. 

SECOND  PAPER 
THE   POSSIBILITIES  OF  COMBINED  EFFORT. 

^rtHE  first  paper  in  this  series  arrived  at  the  conclusion 
^^  that  private  eflEorts  aiming  at  the  colonization  of  ir- 
rigated land  have  not  been  generally  successful  and 
cannot  be  relied  upon  to  solve  the  question,  in  any  large 
sense  of  the  term ;  that  semi-public  agencies,  such  as  rail- 
roads and  boards  of  trade.  State  or  local,  are  useful  only 
within  a  restricted  sphere;  and  that  the  historic  successes 
in  the  line  of  settlement  have  been  accomplished  only  by 
cooperative  eflEorts,  of  which  the  most  notable  instances 
were  the  Greeley  Colony  of  Colorado,  the  Mormon  commu- 
nities of  Utah  and  other  States,  and  certain  famous  settle- 
ments in  Southern  California.  Hence,  if  we  are  to  follow 
the  leading  of  experience  we  will  adopt  the  cooperative 
method  in  getting  settlers  and  then  proceed  to  organize 
their  industrial  and  social  plans  after  the  same  successful 
model. 

This  is  easy  to  say,  but  can  it  be  done  ?  Is  it  not  en- 
tirely impracticable  ?  Horace  Greeley  is  dead.  No  one 
can  now  command  his  influence  as  the  Colorado  settlers 
did.  The  Mormon  church  is  active  enough,  to  be  sure,  but 
there  are  a  good  many  of  us  who  are  not  prepared  to  join  it 
just  yet.  Men  like  Judge  North  and  others  who  took  the 
lead  in  Southern  California  are  not  to  be  found  every  day 
in  the  week.  How,  then,  are  we  to  settle  California,  and 
a  dozen  other  States  of  the  West,  by  such  cooperative 
efforts  ?  No  attempt  was  made  to  answer  that  question 
last  month.  It  was  merely  said  that  that  was  *'  another 
story."    And  here  is  the  other  story. 

I. 

A   PROPOSED   PLAN   OF   UNION. 

I  was  invited  by  General  Will  S.  Green  to  address  a  joint 
meeting  of  the  Sacramento  Valley  and  San  Joaquin  Valley 
Development  Associations  on  this  subject  last  January. 
The  meeting  drew  a  large  attendance  of  representative 
men,  as  it  was  held  in  Sacramento  when  the  Legislature 
was  in  sessson  and  on  the  day  that  the  electoral  vote  was 
cast  for  President  and  Vice-President.  I  opened  the  de- 
bate by  introducing  the  following  resolution  : 

Resolvedy  That  all  the  active  land  interests  of  California  should  be 
united  in  an  Association  for  the  enlistment  and  organization  of  colo- 
nists, and  that  the  Association  thus  formed  should  proceed  with  its 
work  upon  the  following  lines  : 


280  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

1.  There  should  be  an  Bzecutive  Committee,  preferably  composed 
of  iive  members,  to  g^ovem  the  operations  of  the  Association. 

2.  There  should  be  employed  experts  of  the  highest  qualifications 
to  report  upon  conditions  of  soil,  water  supply,  markets,  products, 
cost  of  living*,  and  all  other  essential  facts,  before  the  Association 
undertakes  the  sale  of  any  tract  of  land. 

3.  There  should  be  a  Publication  Department  to  supervise  all  ad- 
vertising or  other  printed  matter  issued  with  the  endorsement  of  the 
Association. 

4.  There  should  be  a  L/ecture  Bureau  to  send  competent  speakers 
throughout  the  Kast  for  the  purpose  of  presenting  the  advantages  of 
California  to  prospective  homeseekers,  with  a  view  of  directing 
public  attention  particularly  to  the  lands  represented  in  the  Associa- 
tion. 

5.  Colonial  clubs  should  be  formed  in  Eastern  cities  and  towns  as 
a  nucleus  for  homeseekers  and  as  a  basis  of  permanent  organization 
for  the  promotion  of  settlement,  year  after  year. 

6.  The  Executive  Committee  should  employ  the  best  talent  for 
planning  colonies  and  townsites,  and  advising  settlers  as  to  industrial 
and  social  arrangements,  to  the  end  that  settlers  may  have  the  ad- 
vantage of  the  experience  of  other  communities. 

7.  The  expense  of  the  Association  should  be  met  by  subscriptions 
to  its  capital  stock,  and  the  terms  upon  which  land  is  sold  should  be 
such  as  to  return  profits  to  be  distributed  pro  rata  among  the  stock- 
holders, while  owners  of  land  disposed  of  would  receive  their  indi- 
vidual profits  besides. 

Aside  from  the  arguments  wHicb  mifi^lit  be  made  for  and 
afifainst  such  a  proposal  as  a  business  proposition,  the  reso- 
lution requires  some  explanation  in  order  to  make  its  mean- 
ing: entirely  clear.  Indeed,  it  covers  so  much  new  ground 
that  I  quickly  discovered  it  could  not  be  threshed  out  in  a 
single  afternoon's  debate.  It  aroused  a  spirited  discussion, 
which  was  participated  in  by  some  of  the  most  prominent 
men  of  the  State,  including  General  N.  P.  Chipman,  Hon. 
W.  H.  Mills,  Arthur  R.  Briggs,  Ben  M.  Maddox,  Senator 
Smith,  General  Green,  and  many  others.  Although  noth- 
ing definite  came  of  the  matter,  sufficient  interest  was 
manifested  to  justify  a  calm  presentation  of  the  proposal 
in  these  pages. 

It  should  be  said  that  the  plan  does  not  contemplate  that 
any  lands  shall  be  deeded  to  the  Association,  or  that  that 
body  shall  assume  the  management  of  land  or  water  prop- 
erties. It  merely  proposes  a  joint  agency  to  take  the 
place  of  many  conflicting  agencies,  and  united  instead  of 
scattered  effort.  It  suggests  a  complete  machinery  aiming 
at  the  systematic  development  of  a  class  of  settlers  for 
California  and  at  their  organization  into  colonies  after  ar- 
rival. In  obtaining  settlers  the  Association's  power  would 
be  quite  absolute ;  in  organizing  them  afterwards  its 
work  would  be  merely  advisory.  The  machinery  provided 
by  such  a  plan  as  this,  while  not  radically  different  from 
that  employed  by  many  companies,  is  much  more  perfect 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  281 

and  fax-reaching.  In  a  word,  this  was  intended  to  be  at 
least  a  step  in  the  direction  of  scientific  methods  of  coloni- 
zation. 

The  chief  difficulty  in  carrying:  out  such  a  plan,  assum- 
ing* that  our  land  interests  could  be  united  and  sufficient 
capital  subscribed  for  the  undertaking — an  assumption 
that  is  entirely  unwarranted — would  be  to  determine  which 
of  the  many  interests  represented  should  receive  the  set- 
tlers obtained.  Naturally,  each  property-owner  would  de- 
sire to  obtain  the  first  settlers,  the  best  settlers,  and  the 
most  settlers.  To  a  certain  extent,  this  problem  would 
solve  itself.  The  lands  controlled  by  the  Association 
would  represent  a  wide  range  of  prices.  One  buyer,  pre- 
ferring cheap  land  where  he  could  raise  alfalfa  and  cattle, 
would  be  willing  to  locate  some  distance  from  a  railroad. 
Another  buyer  would  prefer  high-priced  orange  land  and 
the  best  social  advantages.  Furthermore,  some  settlers 
would  insist  on  Southern  California ;  others  would  prefer 
the  San  Joaquin  or  Sacramento.  The  Association  would 
be  able  to  accommodate  all  of  these  varying  tastes.  To 
this  extent  the  land-owners  in  the  Association  would  not 
come  into  conflict.  But  we  should  not  be  entirely  de- 
pendent on  the  individual  tastes  of  settlers  to  prevent  us 
from  getting  into  trouble  on  this  score. 

The  Colonial  Clubs  would  be  scattered  throughout  many 
States  and  hundreds  of  cities  and  towns.  The  Executive 
Committee  might  arbitrarily  assign  some  of  these  clubs  to 
certain  companies  or  colonies.  Let  us  say,  for  instance, 
that  General  Green  has  a  colony  at  Colusa  and  Mr.  Briggs 
another  at  Fresno.  The  Executive  Committee  informs 
General  Green  that  he  shall  have  the  exclusive  benefit  of 
the  Colonial  Clubd  in  and  around  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  and 
notifies  Mr.  Briggs  that  he  shall  enjoy  a  like  privilege  at 
Ann  Arbor,  Michigan.  While  they  might  not  be  able  to 
control  the  matter  entirely,  they  could  do  so  in  a  large  de- 
gree, while  as  stockholders  they  would  enjoy  a  share  of  the 
profit  in  all  lands  sold  by  the  Association  throughout  the 
State. 

Let  us  look  at  the  plan  now  on  broader  lines. 

11. 

th:^  faii^ure  of  prksknt  methods. 

The  first  justification  for  the  presentation  of  such  a 
plan  is  that  we  are  not  now  colonizing  California  success- 
fully. Some  of  the  richest  land  companies  in  the  State 
have  expended  very  large  sums  in  the  effort  and  made  al- 
most a  total  failure.  We  indulge  in  lamentation  over  our 
great  estates  and  the  backwardness  of  irrigation  in  certain 


282  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

localities,  but  if  it  were  possible  to  furnish  the  owners  of 
these  estates  with  the  assurance  that  buyers  could  be  found 
in  any  considerable  numbers  they  would  proceed  to  sub- 
divide their  lands  and  to  irrig-ate  them  quickly.  The  fact 
is  that  the  settler  is  not  forthcoming.  Hence,  it  is  ^  worth 
while  to  consider  any  proposal  which  has  merit,  even  if  it 
is  not  all  that  could  be  desired. 

The  competitive  method  on  which  we  have  so  far  relied 
to  obtain  settlers  is  fraught  with  many  dangers.  Rivalry 
in  land-selling  leads  to  the  wholesale  depreciation  of  one 
locality  by  the  friends  of  another  locality.  The  result  is 
injury  to  the  whole  State.  Since  the  advantages  of  Cali- 
fornia are  so  striking  as  almost  to  challenge  belief,  it  is 
very  easy  to  discredit  your  rival's  proposition.  This  has 
often  happened,  not  only  as  between  individuals  and  com- 
panies, but  as  between  large  sections  of  the  commonwealth. 
The  result  is  that  the  Eastern  public  does  not  know  what 
to  believe,  but  is  inclined  to  set  down  Californians  as  a 
perverse  generation. 

The  State  is  also  badly  injured  by  irresponsible  parties 
who  advertise  untruths  and  seek  to  unload  propositions 
utterly  without  merit.  Many  a  sad  story  could  be  written 
under  this  head,  recounting  the  losses  of  trusting  settlers. 
While  the  promoters  of  such  projects  have  seldom  realized 
profits  in  the  end,  the  State  has  always  suffered  from  their 
operations. 

The  expense  involved  in  advertising  fifty  enterprises 
separately  and  in  conducting  fifty  separate  agencies,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  injurious  effects  of  cut-throat  competi- 
tion already  mentioned,  is  a  considerable  handicap.  It  is 
the  old  story  of  a  dozen  milkmen  serving  customers  on  the 
same  street,  maintaining  a  dozen  teams  and  traversing 
exactly  the  same  ground,  when  a  single  individual  or  firm 
could  render  the  same  service  with  greater  economy  and 
efficiency.  The  Eastern  field  in  which  settlers  are  to  be 
sought  is  enormous.  Competition  means  that  it  cannot  be 
handled  effectively  except  at  vast  expense. 

Scientific  colonization  requires  the  services  of  expert 
minds  in  several  different  directions.  The  average  enter- 
prise simply  cannot  afford  to  employ  them.  It  must  there- 
fore take  dangerous  chances,  and  a  wise  head  has  remarked 
that  *'in  such  cases  you  may  be  sure  that  all  the  contin- 
gencies will  con  tinge." 

Finally,  the  first  and  last  essential  of  successful  coloniza- 
tion is  public  confidence.  This  confidence  the  present 
method  has  entirely  failed  to  command.  Companies  with 
millions  of  capital  have  failed  to  impress  the  homeseeking^ 
public  with  the  belief  that  their  statements  were  absolutely 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  283 

reliable  and  that  they  could  be  trusted  to  show  them  the 
way  to  prosperity. 

For  these  reasons  the  present  method  of  individual  and 
scattered  efforts  is  so  nearly  a  total  failure,  both  in  enlist- 
ing settlers  and  in  organizing:  their  industrial  plans,  that 
it  cannot  be  relied  upon  to  effect  broad  and  enduring  results 
in  the  colonization  of  Western  lands. 

III. 

MERITS  OF  THE  PROPOSED  PI*AN. 

The  proposition  is  to  bring  all  the  active  land  interests 
of  California  into  a  single  organization,  as  a  means  of 
securing  their  hearty  cooperation  in  obtaining  large  num- 
bers of  settlers  over  a  period  of  years.  The  administra- 
tion of  the  work  would  be  entrusted  to  a  small  Executive 
Committee  —  the  smaller  the  better.  This  would  at  once 
eliminate  competition  and  all  the  evils  arising  therefrom. 
California  would  present  a  solid  front  to  the  homeseeking 
public. 

Under  this  plan  not  a  single  acre  of  bad  or  dubious  soil 
could  be  offered  for  sale.  The  chance  of  mistakes  in  re- 
gard to  water  supply  for  irrigation  would  be  reduced  to  the 
minimum,  because  experts  of  the  highest  ability^  could 
readily  be  employed  by  the  combination.  Competent  statis- 
ticians would  report  on  markets,  products,  and  cost  of 
living.  Experienced  superintendents  would  advise  settlers 
how  to  proceed  with  improvements.  In  all  these  vital 
matters  we  should  be  building  upon  a  foundation  of  ascer- 
tained facts  and  exact  information,  instead  of  working  in 
the  dark,  as  now. 

All  publications  and  advertising  matter  would  be  pre- 
pared under  one  central  head.  This  would  effect  a  great 
economy,  while  permitting  the  service  of  the  ablest  men, 
even  of  men  of  reputation.  This  would  add  enormously  to 
the  influence  of  such  *'  literature."  There  would  then  be  no 
excuse  for  wild,  misleading  statements.  The  responsibility 
would  be  centered. 

The  plan  for  a  Lecture  Bureau  and  formation  of  a  far- 
reaching  system  of  Colonial  Clubs  is  not  at  all  impracti- 
cable. It  has  been  used  successfully  and  more  than  one 
flourishing  colony  stands  as  a  living  monument  of  its  feasi- 
bility. It  is  a  method  which  appeals  powerfully  to  the 
public.  They  like  to  meet  the  sponsors  of  a  colony  scheme 
face  to  face.  There  are  few  subjects  which  possess  more 
elements  of  human  interest,  or  offer  more  opportunities  to 
the  intelligent  speaker.  Furthermore,  it  is  easier  to  talk 
effectively  to  a  hundred  people  than  to  one.  There  is  a 
spirit   about  the  thing  not  easy  to  explain,  but  always 


284  LANO   OF   SUNSHINE. 


deeply  felt  by  speaker  and  audience.  Then  such  meetings 
advertise  themselves  very  thoroughly.  "Go  West,  young 
man,"  is  still  a  magic  phrase  of  much  potency.  I  know 
from  my  own  experience  that  more  can  be  accomplished 
from  the  lecture  platform  in  six  weeks  than  can  be  done 
from  a  real  estate  office  in  six  months  —  I  had  almost  said 
six  years. 

Neither  is  there  any  difficulty  about  forming  the  clubs. 
A  large  element  of  every  community  stands  ready  to  join 
anything,  especially  if  little  or  no  expense  attaches  to  the 
operation.  While  the  real  estate  office  appeals  principally 
to  the  pocket-nerve,  the  lecture  and  club  cater  to  the  social 
instincts  as  well.  I  undertake  to  say  that  with  anything 
like  an  effective  consolidation  of  land  interests  in  Cali- 
fornia, with  reasonable  moral  and  financial  backing,  not 
less  than  100,000  people  could  be  enrolled  in  Colonial  Clubs 
within  a  year.  Of  these,  not  less  than  10,000  would  be 
buyers  and  immediate  settlers,  and  from  10,000  to  20,000 
more  would  purchase  places  on  installments  and  have  them 
improved  while  remaining  at  their  trades  and  professions. 
All  the  rest  would  be  good  advertisers  for  California  and 
serve  to  keep  the  clubs  alive,  thus  furnishing  permanent 
channels  for  lectures  and  literature. 

And  the  expense  ?  That  would  be  a  matter  for  careful 
calculation,  but  probably  $50,000  would  make  a  fair  test  of 
the  system.  This  capital  would  be  raised  by  stock  sub- 
scription, or,  possibly,  in  part  by  donations.  A  good  many 
counties  might  be  willing  to  contribute.  The  Association 
would  make  contracts  with  its  members  for  the  sale  of  their 
land  upon  such  a  margin  of  profit  as  to  meet  all  the  ex- 
penses of  the  work  and  leave  a  dividend  for  stockholders. 
While  the  landowner  would  look  chiefly  to  the  sale  of  his 
own  property  for  his  pecuniary  benefit,  he  would  also  share 
the  profits  upon  every  acre  of  land  disposed  of,  since  he 
would  be  a  stockholder  in  the  Association.  It  is  possible 
that  a  plan  might  be  framed  by  which  profits  would  be 
equalized,  regardless  of  the  locality  in  which  sales  were 
made. 

The  chief  advantage  of  the  proposed  method  lies  not  in 
the  economy  which  it  would  effect,  nor  even  in  the  very 
great  degree  of  efficiency  which  would  come  from  the  pro- 
vision of  such  complete  machinery.  The  transcendent 
merit  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  would  absolutely  compel  public 
respect  and  confidence.  Behind  it  would  stand  the  com- 
bined influence  of  California.  Press  and  people  would 
vouch  for  it  everywhere.  No  purely^  private  enterprise 
could  compete  with  this  semi-public  undertaking,  repre- 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  285 

senting  the  organized  effort  of  California  to  colonize  its 
vacant  lands  upon  a  basis  of  perfect  good  faith. 

The  reader  will  ask  :  ''Assuming  that  such  an  organiza- 
tion could  be  made  and  operated  successfully,  so  that 
abundant  settlers  were  found,  how  do  you  propose  to  organ- 
ize them  into  colonies  and  thus  realize  the  advantages 
which  cooperative  efforts  have  brought  elsewhere  ?  The 
test  of  colonization  is,  of  course,  not  merely  getting  the 
people,  but  making  them  prosperous  after  they  are  obtained, 
so  that  the  work  of  settlement  may  go  on  indefinitely." 

That  is  a  very  pertinent  question,  which  will  be  dealt 
with  in  the  next  paper  of  this  series. 

W.  E.  S. 
[to  be  continued.] 


The  Struggle  for    Water. 


THE  ORIGIN   OF  RIGHTS  AND   DISTRIBUTION    OF   SUPPLIES 


^rtHIS  report*  is  the  most  substantial  result  yet  achieved 
\  by  the  new  branch  of  the  Agricultural  Department 
known  as  Irrigation  Investigations.  It  was  made 
possible  by  the  cooperation  of  the  California  Water  and 
Forest  Association,  whose  Finance  Committee,  under  the 
chairmanship  of  Mr.  Timothy  Hopkins,  raised  several 
thousand  dollars  to  supplement  the  appropriation  of  Con- 
gress for  the  purpose.  It  is  probably  not  extravagant  to 
say  that  the  publication  of  the  work  marks  the  first  im- 
portant stage  of  the  battle  for  the  reform  of  the  water  laws 
of  California  —  a  battle  that  must  go  on  unceasingly,  re- 
gardless of  all  obstacles,  until  the  great  result  shall  be 
fully  accomplished  and  this  first  of  Western  States  provided 
with  institutions  suited  to  its  highest  development. 

The  report  makes  a  beautiful  volume  of  nearly  500  pages, 
copiously  illustrated  with  maps  and  pictures.  The  fact 
that  it  has  cost  the  Government  about  $6.00  per  copy  for 
mechanical  production,  not  counting  the  expense  of  the 
investigations  themselves,  testifies  to  its  excellence  as  a 
matter  of  paper  and  printing.  The  first  edition  is  small 
and  will  be  in  great  demand.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  further 
editions  will  be  called  for  and  authorized  in  time.  And  it 
would  be  well  if  large  editions  of  pamphlets,  made  up  of 
separate  reports,  could  be  printed  and  thoroughly  dis- 
tributed in  the  various  localities  covered  by  the  discussion. 
The  introductory  report  by  the  Expert  in  Charge  deals  with 

***  Irrigation  Investiffmtions  in  California,"  Bulletin  No.  100,  U.  S.  Dex>artment 
of  Airricnltnre,  Office  of  Experiment  Station,  1901. 


286  LAND    OF   SUNSHiNE. 

the  entire  situation  on  broad  lines,  enforcing  its  discussion 
of  California  problems  with  facts  and  illustrations  drawn 
from  the  experience  of  the  world  at  large.  A  pamphlet 
edition  of  this  introduction  ought  to  be  supplied  to  every 
irrigator  and  public  man  in  the  State. 

The  investigation  was  made,  according  to  the  title-page 
of  the  report,  under  the  direction  of  Elwood  Mead,  assisted 
by  William  E.  Smythe,  Marsden  Manson,  J.  M.  Wilson, 
Charles  D.  Marx,  Frank  Soule,  C.  E.  Grunsky,  Edward  M. 
Boggs,  and  James  D.  Schuyler.  None  of  the  parties  con- 
cerned in  its  authorship  are  inexperienced  or  unknown  in 
this  field  of  labor.  All  of  them  have  been  identified  for 
many  years  with  irrigation  thought  and  practice,  and  not 
one  of  them  could  afford  to  give  anything  less  than  the 
very  best  of  which  he  was  capable  to  a  discussion  of  this 
sort,  conducted  under  the  direct  auspices  of  the  national 
Government. 

While  each  of  the  experts,  except  Mr.  Mead,  dealt  with 
a  particular  stream,  all  worked  upon  a  uniform  plan.  They 
were  instructed  to  take  the  present  water  laws  of  California 
as  the  basis  of  their  discussion,  to  observe  how  these  laws 
had  worked  in  their  practical  application  to  the  irrigation 
industry  in  the  locality  they  were  considering,  and  what 
reforms,  if  any,  are  required  to  bring  the  use  of  water 
under  more  intelligent  and  successful  management  here- 
after. This  program  made  it  necessary  for  each  expert  to 
discuss  many  different  aspects  of  the  water  question. 
Among  the  most  important  were  the  following:  How  should 
water  be  appropriated?  —  a  most  vital  question  because 
the  method  of  acquiring  it  originally  goes  to  the  very 
foundation  of  a  stable  water  right.  How  should  water  be 
distributed  in  order  to  avoid  incessant  conflict  among  a 
multitude  of  users  from  the  same  stream  ?  How  should 
water  be  owned  —  by  the  person  who  makes  the  appropria- 
tion, by  the  canal  which  conveys  it,  by  the  irrigator  who 
applies  it  to  the  soil,  or  should  it  be  inalienably  attached 
to  the  soil  itself  ?  Are  riparian  rights  consistent  with  the 
best  use  of  water  in  an  arid  land  ?  Would  the  private 
ownership  of  water  apart  from  land,  obtained  either 
through  appropriation  or  riparian  rights,  involve  a 
monopoly  of  this  natural  element,  and,  if  so,  would  such 
a  monopoly  be  a  dangerous  influence  in  the  social  and 
economic  life  of  the  State  ?  By  what  form  of  enterprise  — 
private  or  public.  State  or  national  —  can  the  storage  and 
distribution  of  flood  waters  be  effected  to  the  best  advantage 
of  the  community  at  large  ? 

In  no  way  except  by  reading  the  report  in  its  entiret)', 
with  its  wealth  of  facts  drawn  from  the  experience  of  dil- 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  287 

ferent  localities  and  interpreted  by  the  patient  skill  of  the 
experts,  can  the  reader  grasp  the  full  significance  of  these 
vital  questions  and  the  answers  supplied  in  this  work,  of 
about  250,000  words.  But  in  the  brief  summaries  prepared 
for  this  magazine  the  effort  will  be  to  present  the  most 
salient  evidence  and  conclusions. 

I. — THE  ORIGIN  OF  A  WATER  RIGHT. 

The  law  says  that  "the  right  to  the  use  of  running 
water  flowing  in  a  river  or  stream  or  down  a  canon  or 
ravine  may  be  acquired  by  appropriation."  Leaving  aside 
for  the  present  the  manner  in  which  this  statute  is  largely 
nullified  by  the  riparian  doctrine,  upheld  by  the  decisions 
of  the  highest  court,  let  us  consider  the  origin  of  water 
rights  as  laid  down  in  the  words  quoted  from  the  statute. 
How  is  water  appropriated  under  this  plan  ?  By  posting 
a  notice  "  in  a  conspicuous  place  at  the  point  of  intended 
diversion,"  stating  how  much  water  is  claimed,  the  pur- 
pose and  place  for  which  it  is  intended  to  be  used,  and  the- 
means  by  which  it  is  to  be  diverted.  Within  ten  days  the 
notice  must  be  recorded  in  the  office  of  the  County  Re- 
corder, who  must  keep  a  book  for  the  purpose. 

Only  this  and  nothing  more!  The  right  to  use  the  water 
on  which  the  existence  of  your  farm  depends  —  hence,  the 
ability  to  support  your  family  —  rests  solely  upon  this  so- 
called  " law  of  appropriation."  How  do  you  know  there  is 
surplus  water  in  the  stream  to  which  you  can  properly  lay 
claim?  You  cannot  know — can  only  guess  at  it.  But 
supposing  the  entire  supply  has  already  been  appropriated, 
even  more  than  appropriated ;  can  you  still  file  your  notice 
and  proceed  just  as  if  this  were  a  virgin  stream  and  nobody 
lived  within  a  thousand  miles  of  you  ?  Certainly  ;  there 
is  nothing  to  prevent.  Nobody  has  ever  measured  the 
stream ;  nobody  knows  how  much  has  been  claimed,  nor 
how  much  is  actually  applied  to  beneficial  use.  There  has 
been  a  popular  inquiry  Of  late  as  to  the  exact  definition  of 
'*  anarchy."  The  word  means  **want  of  government." 
And  our  present  method  of  appropriating  water  is  a  perfect 
illustration  of  anarchy  as  applied  to  the  most  fundamental 
need  of  the  community  in  an  arid  land.  There  is  this 
little  statute  which  pretends  to  give  everybody  a  right  to 
appropriate  water,  and  then  a  total  *' want  of  government" 
in  carrying  it.  out  or  protecting  the  rights  it  originates. 
The  whole  thing  rests  upon  nothing  but  force  when  it  is 
followed  to  its  last  analysis.  You  take  the  water  if  you 
can  get  it  into  your  headgate,  regardless  of  your  neighbor's 
needs  or  rights.  You  keep  the  water  if  you  can  hold  your 
own  headgate  open  and  your  neighbor's  shut.     There  are 


288  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

places  in  California  where  this  is  accomplished  by  the  use 
of  shotg^uns  and  organized  terrorism.  You  take  the  matter 
into  the  courts,  but  it  is  still  the  arbitrament  of  force, 
though  of  a  different  kind.  It  is  financial  force  now  in- 
stead of  physical.  Not  that  the  courts  are  corrupt  —  no 
such  impression  is  intended  to  be  conveyed  for  an  instant — 
but  that  they  have  no  basis  upon  which  to  decide  anything. 

Without  knowing  how  much  water  there  is  in  the  stream 
and  how  much  has  been  applied  to  beneficial  use,  how  can 
the  court  possibly  know  when  prior  rights  are  infringed 
upon?  Besides,  what  is  ''beneficial  use,"  within  the 
meaning  of  the  law  ?  How  much  water  is  required  to  irri- 
gate land  in  California  ?  If  you  are  using  too  much  you 
are  not  making  beneficial  use,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  are 
making  injurious  use  and  the  whole  community  is  the 
loser.  There  is  no  accepted  unit  of  so  much  water  to  so 
much  land  by  which  beneficial  use  can  be  passed  upon  by 
the  court.  You  can  litigate  and  litigate,  but  litigation 
cannot  lead  to  justice,  save  by  mere  accident,  under  such 
circumstances.  The  man  with  the  longest  purse,  who  can 
hire  the  most  lawyers  and  employ  the  largest  array  of  ex- 
pert witnesses,  can  win  in  the  end,  because  he  can  have  the 
cause  tried  again  and  again  until  at  last  all  opposition  is 
exhausted.  And  that  is  equivalent  to  government  by  force 
rather  than  by  law. 

It  is  upon  such  a  foundation  that  the  best  and  oldest 
rights  in  California  are  resting  today.  Vested  interests 
are  often  quoted  in  opposition  to  reform.  But  vested  in- 
terests are  the  ones,  above  all  others,  that  are  imperiled 
by  existing  conditions.  No  man  can  go  to  bed  at  night  and 
he,  sure  that  when  he  arises  he  will  not  have  to  employ 
attorneys  and  use  his  last  dollar  to  defend  the  water  right 
on  which  the  value  of  his  property  entirely  depends.  He 
may  be  rich,  but  other  men  are  richer  yet,  and  there  is  not 
a  water  right  in  the  State  which  may  not  be  attacked  upon 
some  ground.  Judicial  precedents  count  for  little  or  noth- 
ing. They  are  like  weather-cocks,  now  pointing  north, 
now  south,  and  constantly  veering  to  all  points  of  the  com- 
pass. The  trouble  is  that  the  foundation  of  water  rights 
is  on  shifting  sands,  rather  than  on  the  bed-rock  of  exact 
information  and  eternal  justice. 

Slender  as  the  law  of  appropriation  is  at  best,  it  could 
not  be  obeyed  to  any  advantage.  Posting  a  notice  at  "a 
conspicuous  place"  near  the  point  of  diversion  does  not 
secure  publicity,  because  streams  are  not  diverted,  as  a 
rule,  at  conspicuous  places.  Such  diversions  are  generally 
made  in  willow  thickets  or  among  rugged  hills  remote  from 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  289 

highways.  Filing  the  claims  with  recorders  is  equally  in- 
effective. A  stream  may  flow  through  several  counties,  so 
that  the  total  claims  could  not  be  found  at  any  one  place. 
It  was  discovered  that  in  one  of  the  most  conspicuous 
counties  (Los  Angeles)  the  records  were  not  kept  in  a 
book  by  themselves  until  quite  recently,  but  scattered 
through  the  miscellaneous  records,  so  that  trying  to  find 
them  was  like  searching  for  a  needle  in  a  haystack.  Even 
if  the  records  had  been  perfectly  kept  and  considerable 
publicity  secured  little  good  would  have  resulted,  since  no 
method  was  provided  for  showing  what  appropriations  had 
been  followed  up  by  construction  and  then  by  beneficial 
use.  Neither  was  there  any  system  of  enforcing  compli- 
ance with  the  claims.  To  the  anarchy  of  the  appropria- 
tion method  was  added  the  utter  chaos  of  records  and  entire 
lack  of  all  supervision. 

What  were  the  practical  results  ?  Every  stream  was 
over-appropriated,  many  times  the  total  flow  being  usually 
claimed.  In  one  of  the  northern  valleys,  where,  at  the 
utmost,  the  supply  would  suffice  for  150,000  acres,  enough 
water  was  "  appropriated"  to  irrigate  over  200,000,000 
acres.  On  the  San  Joaquin  River  the  amount  claimed  was 
172  times  the  normal  flow.  Similar  abuses  were  found  on 
every  stream  within  the  scope  of  the  investigation,  while 
the  grotesque  and  misleading  terms  in  which  the  claims 
were  couched  were  so  numerous  that  it  would  require  a  good 
part  of  this  magazine  to  reproduce  them.  For  instance, 
one  man  claimed  *'the  entire  flow  of  the  San  Joaquin 
from  its  surface  to  the  center  of  the  earth."  His  point  of 
diversion  was  ^'immediately  opposite  a  white  oak  tree  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  stream."  A  man  on  the  Los  An- 
geles river  served  notice  that  he  appropriated  "  3,000 
miners'  inches  under  a  4-inch  pressure,  to  be  taken  out  in 
a  pipe  1/4  inches  in  diameter." 

Absurd  ?  No,  tragical  I  All  sense  of  humor  is  sub- 
merged in  the  sea  of  litigation  that  arises  from  this  pre- 
posterous method  of  establishing  rights  to  the  most  pre- 
cious of  all  elements  of  natural  wealth  in  an  arid  land.  It 
is  calculated  that  on  the  Kings  River  alone  $40,000  has 
been  annually  expended  for  litigation  during  the  past  ten 
years.  And  nobody  is  any  better  ofif  than  at  the  beginning. 
The  same  amount  of  money  would  pay  four  per  cent  inter- 
est on  $1,000,000.  The  wise  investment  of  the  latter  sum 
would  water  every  acre  in  controversy  and  thousands  of 
acres  besides.  Men  would  save  their  money  to  improve 
their  homes  instead  of  wasting  it  in  fruitless  lawsuits. 
The  present  conditions  are  pitiable,  shameful,  intolerable. 


290  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

II.     THE   DISTRIBUTION  OF  WATER — ^AND  GRIEF. 

But  little  Space  is  required  to  discuss  the  California  law 
i:overnin^  the  distritmtion  of  water.  There  is  no  such 
law.  Yet  in  other  arid  lands  this  is  one  of  the  most  essen- 
tial features  of  administrative  systems.  The  French  have 
a  maxim  to  the  effect  that  if  g-ovemment  did  not  exist,  it 
would  be  absolutely  necessary  to  create  g^overnment  in 
order  to  provide  for  the  distribution  of  water  in  an  arid 
land  Here  each  irrigator  and  canal-owner  is  a  law  unto 
himself.  All  are  Ishmaelites — every  man^s  hand  is  ag^ainst 
every  other  man,  since  all  are  engaged  in  the  fierce  struggle 
for  the  precious  element  which  is  the  life-blood  of  the 
State. 

Here,  again,  the  costly  litigation  often  fails  of  its  object. 
It  is  decreed,  for  instance,  that  A  shall  have  one-half  of 
the  stream  when  B  does  not  need  it.  Who  is  to  say  what 
constitutes  **  one-half?"  And,  worse  than  that,  who  is  to 
say  when  B  ^*  does  not  need  it  V*  A  probably  thinks  that 
B  does  not  need  it  at  all,  but  B  thinks  he  needs  it  all  the 
time.  More  trouble  among  the  neighbors,  more  lawsuits, 
frequently  punctuated  by  brief  but  annoying  remarks  from 
shotguns.  There  are  places  where  private  arsenals  are 
maintained  to  facilitate  the  peaceful  distribution  of  the 
water  supply.  It  is  not  always  so  bad  as  this,  but  it  is 
always  bad  enough,  and  so  it  will  continue  to  be  until  the 
people  of  California  are  able  to  rise  to  the  level  of  India 
and  Egypt  in  the  appropriation  and  distribution  of  water. 

In  future  numbers  we  shall  get  some  further  revelations 
concerning  the  nature  and  operation  of  the  California 
water  laws.  Then  we  shall  see  the  sweeping  remedies  for 
this  state  of  things  proposed  by  the  unanimous  judgment 
of  the  expert  investigators. 


The  Desert  Translated 

NB  hundred  years  hence  the  newspaper  scribes  of  the  Pacific 
Coast  will  be  engaged  in  telling-  the  wonderful  things  which 
marked  the  course  of  the  twentieth  century.  Taking  down 
from  their  dusty  shelves  in  cobwebbed  nooks  of  public  libra- 
ries the  records  of  the  long-gone  year  of  1901,  they  will  discover 
prominent  notices  of  an  event  precisely  contemporaneous  with  the 
birth  of  the  century  they  are  describing.  And  then  they  will  pro- 
ceed to  write  something  like  this : 

**  What  is  now  the  scene  of  the  densest  population  in  Cal- 
ifornia, on  New  Year's  Day  one  hundred  years  ago,  was 
one  of  the  most  forsaken  and  desolate  spots  in  all  the 
West.  We  ask  our  readers  to  put  forth  the  utmost  efforts  of 
their  imagination  and  endeavor  to  see  the  wide-stretching  Delta 
of  the  Colorado  River  as  it  appeared  in  the  time  of  our  ances- 
tors. Remove  for  the  moment,  if  you  can,  the  great  city  in 
the  heart    of    this    marvelous    plain,    the    scores  of    villages    and 


THE    DESERT    TRANSLATED. 


Thb  Virgin  Dbsbkt.    (Imperial  Valley 


's  Old  Soro-liiim,  ImperJal  Talley 


292  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

ha.mlets  that  mark  th«  horizon  on  every  hand,  the  long,  shaded 
avenues  leading:  out  through  the  country  in  all  directions.  Iniagine 
that  the  three  great  railways  now  traversing-  the  Imperial  valley, 
and  the  elaborate  network  of  electric  lines,  never  existed.  Rub  out 
for  the  instant  the  miles — the  tens  of  miles — of  garden,  field,  and 
orchard.  Close  your  eyes  to  the  thousands  of  homes,  sugar  factories 
and  other  industries — in  a  word,  take  away  the  entire  fabric  of  civili- 
zation as  it  now  exists  in  that  wonderful  region  and  try  to  think  of  it 
as  it  was  when  the  sun  rose  over  the  Sastem  mountains  on  January 
1,  1901. 

"No  railroads,  no  homes,  no  factories,  no  fields  or  orchards,  and — 
no  water  1  Silence  and  desolation  I  A  place  so  barren  that  even  the 
coyote  shunned  it  as  a  hopeless  waste  i  And  yet  in  the  first  year  of 
the  century  now  dead  and  gone,  the  great  river  was  turned  from  its 
channel,  and  broad  canals  bore  its  waters  into  the  heart  of  the  desert. 
And,  lo !  men  came  to  plant  and  to  build,  to  live  and  to  rear 
their  children,  to  break  the  silence  of  desolation  with  voices  of 
industry,  and  to  make  the  barren  waste  blossom  with  all  the  tieauties 
of  EMen.  One  of  the  great  achievements  of  the  century,  it  has  now 
become  so  large  a  part  of  the  very  foundation  on  which  our  social 
and  economic  life  is  builded,  that  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  conceive 
of  Southern  California  without  it.  And  yet  it  is  related  of  some 
of  our  ancestors,  who  must  have  been  stupid  fellows  indeed, 
that  they  persisted  to  the  last  that  the  undertaking  was  visionary, 
and  that  where  the  desert  then  was  human  beings  could  never  live 
because  of  the  heat  and  drought." 

Such  will  be  the  reflections  of  those  unborn  scribes,  the  writers  of 
the  year  2001.  Over  and  over  they  will  tell  the  story  of  how  the 
desert  was  translated.  A  million  acres  of  fertile  soil,  and  water 
enough  in  the  Colorado  river  to  irrigate  it  all  without  storage !  It  is 
a  situation  which  cannot  be  duplicated  in  the  world.  Is  it  any  won- 
der that  it  flourishes  ? 


L  Canal  SysTBu 


mbcr  13,  VSl—Dlti  Los  Anselcs,  Cai.,  October  13. 1WI. 


Santa   Rosa-~The  Flower  City- 
Sonoma  County,  Cal. 


|tt|MHB  first  railroads  in  California  followed  the  central  valley, 
NS'I  •     running  through  the  State  from  north  to  aouth^the  line  of 

^  least  resistance  and  the  quickest  and  largest  profits.  They 
came  in  with  the  transition  of  the  State  from  an  era  of  gold 
to  a  golden  age  of  agriculture.  They  were  the  first  to  make  known 
to  the  outside  world,  by  systematic  and  effective  methods,  the  re- 
markable climate  and  agricultural  range  of  the  country  from  whence 
they  drew  their  local  support.  By  these  efforts  thousands  were  at- 
tracted to  the  State,  and  many  travelers  and  tourists  became  perma- 
nent residents  of  California  from  what  they  saw  of  it  in  transit. 

But,  they  do  not  cover  the  whole  State.  The  ocean  coast  north  of 
San  Francisco  trends  rapidly  to  the  west,  widening  the  distance  tie- 
tween  the  Sacramento  Valley  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Four  of  the 
largest,  richest  and  least  known  of  the  counties  of  California  are 
situated  in  this  district.  The  combined  areas  of  the  coast  counties 
Marin,  Sonoma,  Mendocino  and  Humboldt  is  equal  to  many  States. 
They  front  for  over  two  hundred  miles  on  the  ocean,  extending  in- 
land to  the  east  for  one  hundred  miles.  They  are  sparsely  popu- 
lated and  comparatively  undeveloped,  but  even  as  they  are,  produce 
more  wealth  per  capita  than  any  other  counties  in  the  State.  Gener- 
ally speaking,  this  rich  and  inviting  section  is  known  only  to  those 
abroad  whose  attention  was  directed  to  its  advantages  through  pri- 
vate sources,  or  to  those  who  had  some  special  reason  to  investigate 
its  varied  advantages. 

The  coast  counties  differ  in  climate,  soil,   mode  of  culture,  flora 
and  other  products,  from  the  interior.   The  annual  rainfall  is  greater. 
The  season  of  growth  is  longer.     No  irrigation  is  necessary.     There 
are  no  droughts.     The  dry  years  in  the  interior  are  bonanza  years  on 
the  coast' — prices  are  high  and   the   yield   is   enormous.     Crops  are 
more  frequently  hurt  by  too  much  than  by  too  little  rain.     The  red- 
wood, the  most  valuable  of  all  American  forest  products,  here  finds 
its  natural  home.     A  continuous  redwood  forest  stretches  along  the 
ocean  front  of  the  Northwest  coast  for  two  hundred  miles,  a  timber 
belt   of    unsurpassed     magnificence    and 
of    incalculable  commercial  value.     Indi- 
viduals  of  this   family  of  trees  attain  a 
height  of   three  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  a 
diameter  of  twenty    feet  and  a   circum- 
ference of  sixty  feet.    Their  average  di- 
ameter is  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  or.  the 
beat  land. 

The  earth,  air  and  ocean,  three  of  the 
most  powerful  forces  in  nature,  combine 
for  the  support  of  a  redwood  forest.  This 
accounts  for  the  sise  of  the  trees  and  the 
great  number  that  grow  on  an  acre  of 
^nd.  They  possess  the  power,  more  than 
other  trees,  of  condensing  moisture  from 
the  atmosphere,  especially  the  fogs  which 
prevail  along  the  coast  in  summer.  No 
one  can  witness  without  surprise  and  ad- 
miration the  attractive  power  of  a  red- 
wood forest  on  a  summer  fog.  Detached 
clouds  of  mist  rise  as  if  startled  from  the 
sea,  float  inland  and  creep  through  the 
foliage,  quickly  followed  by  denser  mas- 
ses, and  soon  every  leaflet  is  dripping 
with  moisture,  distilled  from  the  sea  ot 
vapor  in  which  the  forest  is   submerged.  Sbcohd-Giowth  Redwoods. 


300  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

This  process  is  repeated  day  after  day  during  the  summer  season,  and 
tons  of  water,  lifted  by  this  system  of  aerial  hydraulics,  are  distributed 
through  every  nook  and  comer  of  the  forest.  The  trees  appear  like 
specters  supporting  the  gray  canopy  of  mist  above  them.  The 
silence  is  broken  only  by  the  scarcely  audible  sound  of  the  absorption 
and  assimilation  of  the  volatilized  overflow  of  the  sea  upon  the 
land.  The  temperature  of  the  fog  is  SS  degrees.  It  disappears  on 
reaching  the  open  land  or  stands  aa  a  wall  on  the  outer  edge  of  the 
forest.  The  clear  air  beyond  the  fog-line  carries  unseen  moisture  to 
all  plant  life  in  its  path,  until,  stripped  of  its  humidity,  it  merges 
with  the  overheated  atmosphere  of  the  interior  valleys  as  a  cool  and 
invigorating  breeze. 

The  redwood  splits  true.  It  does  not  warp.  When  wet  it  will  not 
easily  burn.  Thoroughly  soaked  it  is  almost  wholly  fireproof.  It 
contains  no  resin.  The  residence  portion  of  San  Francisco  is  built 
of  redwood.  There  sre  square  miles  of  houses  close  together.  There 
has  never  been  a  conflagration  in  the  resident  district,  because  a  fire 


Russian  Riveh  CaRon.  Phoio.  by  Sliaw. 

does  not  spread  rapidly.  One  building  will  not  readily  ignite  from 
another.  San  Francisco  was  three  times  destroyed  by  fire  when 
built  of  Kastern  pine  before  the  redwood  came  in,  or  its  immense 
value  as  building  material  was  known.  Never,  since.  A  railroad  tie 
or  other  detached  redwood  bolt  thoroughly  ignited  over  its  entire 
surface,  if  left  to  itself  will  go  out,  charred  on  the  outside  and 
sound  in  the  center.  It  is  the  most  durable  wood  known,  fences 
forty  and  even  fifty  years  old  are  as  sound  as  when  built.  The  second 
growth  of  trees  from  which  these  first  rails  were  made  are  over  a 
hundred  feet  high,  and  other  rails  could  be  split  from  them.  The 
butt-cut  of  a  red  wood  tree  is  very  close  grained.  Green  it  barely  floats 
in  the  water  ;  seasoned  it  takes  on  a  beautiful  polish  with  the  rich 
color  of  mahogany.  Kxcepting  only  flooring,  it  is  the  best  known 
material  for  house  building  from  mudsill  to  redwood  shingle  roof, 
including  doors,  ornamental  panel  work  and  balustrades.  It  makes 
the  best  and  most  lasting  railroad  ties.  The  road  over  the  South 
American  Andes,  crossing  the  hip  of  the  volcano  of  Chimtxiraxo,  is 
now  building  on  redwood  ties  from  the  Northwest  c(  " 
California. 


SANTA    ROSA-SONOMA     COUNTY.  301 

Eel  River  and  Russian  River  valleys  are  the  largest  in  the  coast 
counties.  The  former  runs  northward  to  Humbolt  Bay.  Russian 
River  valley  runs  southvrard.  fronting'  on  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco. 
It  lies  east  of  the  timber  belt  of  Mendocino  and  Sonoma  counties.  It 
is  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  long  and  has  an  average  width  of 
ten  miles.  Its  soil  is  fertile,  its  scenery  diversified  and  beautiful. 
It  has  long  been  noted  for  its  production  of  Indian  corn,  which  yi*>ld3 
sixty  bushels  to  the  acre  without  irrigation.  This  fact  is  mentioned 
as  a  witness  for  the  soil  and  climatic  conditions,  there  being  no  other 
section  of  the  State  where  this  crop  grows  without  irrigation.  All 
other  cereals,  stone,  seed  and  citrus  fruits,  the  grape,  the  olive  and 
especially  Ijerries  yield  large  returns.  The  foothills  have  a  milder 
climate  than  the  valleys  and  are  equally  productive.  There  is  an 
annual  citrus  fair  at  Cloverdale,  in  Russian  River  valley,  at  which 
oranges,  lemons  and  other  semi-tropical  fruits  equal  to  any  grown  in 
the  State  are  exhibited. 

On  account  of  its  projection  west,  the  northwest  coast  receives  a 
heavy  rainfall.  The  rain-bearing  winds  from  the  south  first  strike 
the  northwest  coast  and  seem  to  advance  from  north  to  south,  though 


At  thb  Mouth  of  Russian  River.  Pholo.  by  Sliaw. 

actually  reaching  the  coast  from  the  south.  The  precipitation  of 
rain  increases  as  the  coast  trends  to  the  northwest  and  diminishes  as 
it  receeds  southeasterly.  The  northwest  coast  is  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  west  of  Southern  California— hence  its  greatly  increased 
rainfall.  The  average  annual  rainfall  in  the  northwest  coast 
counties  is  forty  inches.  The  least  precipitation  in  eighteen  years  of 
record  was  greater  tlian  the  annual  average  in  many  parts  of  the 
State.  The  season  of  rain  extends  from  the  first  of  October  to  the 
first  of  July.  There  are  but  three  months  in  which  rain  does  not 
fall — July,  August  and  September.  The  hills  are  green  until  July 
and  the  valleys  in  some  parts  the  entire  year.  The  mean  winter 
temperature  is  equivalent  to  that  of  May  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

The  California  Northwestern  company  runs  its  trains  for  one 
hundred  and  twelve  miles  through  the  center  of  the  northwest  coast 
counties.  An  extension  of  thirty  miles  further  inland  will  be  com- 
pleted and  running  by  the  first  of  the  incoming  year.  It  is  said  to 
be  the  heaviest  freight  carrying  road  in  proportion  to  its  length  of 
any  road  in  the  United  States.  .This  may  be  well  believed  by  those 
who  are  familiar  with  the  vast  t'esources  of  the  country  through 
which  the  road  runs.    Three  trains  leave  the  Ferry  depot  in  San 


302  LAND    OF    SUtVSHINE. 

Francisco  every  day  for  the  terminus  of  the  road  in  Mendocino 
county,  returning  in  the  afternoon.  Local  trains  leave  the  same 
depot  every  hour  for  nearer  points  on  the  line  of  the  road.  The  new 
lerminua  at  Willets,  in  Mendocino  county,  is  within  live  miles  of  a 
great  redwood  forest  and  will  be  the  center  of  a  large  and  important 
lumber  manufacturing'  interest,  offering  great  inducements  for  settle- 
ment and  business  enterprise. 

Santa  Rosa  ia  the  largest  city  west  of  the  Sacramento  river  and 
north  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  the  natural  capital  of  the  northwest 
coast.  It  has  a  population  of  eight  thousand  and  double  thatnumtier 
live  within  a  radius  of  a  few  miles.  It  is  the  county  seat  of  Sonoma, 
the  largest,  most  populous  and  wealthiest  of  the  coast  counties.  It 
is  the  distributing  point  and  ra.ilroad  center  of  the  northwest  coast. 
Twenty  trains  arrive  and  depart  from  Santa  Rosa  every  day,  con- 
necting it  with  all  parts  of  the  county,  the  interior  of  the  State,  San 
Francisco,  Sacramento,  the  overland  trains  for  the  East,  Oregon,  the 
Sound  cities  and  British  Columbia.  The  topographical  features  of  a 
country  do  not  change,  however  great  the  change  upon  the  surface. 


Across  the  Roofs  dp  Sakta  Rosa.  Pbolo.  by  Sbaw. 

The  old  Indian  and  Spanish  trails  to  and  from  the  coast  counties 
crossed  at  Santa  Rosa  just  as  the  railroads  of  today  meet  there  as  a 
center  of  travel  and  traffic.  It  is  the  only  direct  railroad  pass  from 
the  coast  to  the  Sacramento  valley,  to  the  East,  and  Eastern  markets. 

Santa  Kosa  is  connected  with  San  Francisco  by  two  lines  of  rail- 
road—the California  Northwestern  and  the  Southern  Pacific.  Be- 
side its  railroads,  thanks  to  a  progressive  Board  of  Supervisors, 
an  excellent  system  of  public  roads  radiate  from  Santa  Rosa  to  all 
parts  of  the  county. 

Sonoma  is  the  most  diversified  in  its  products  of  all  the  counties  of 
this  State.  Its  superficial  area  is  one  million  acres.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  south  by  the  bay  of  San  Francisco,  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific 
ocean,  on  the  north  by  Mendocino  county,  and  on  the  east  by  the 
Mayacmas  range  of  mountains. 

At  least  half  the  area  of  the  county  is  valley  or  foothill  land.  In 
the  foothills  are  tracts  of  alluvial  soil  which  equal  the  valleys  in 
fertility  ;  they  are  warmer,  drier  and  lielter  for  many  purposes  than 
valley  lands.    The  finest  wine  grapes,  citrus  fruits,  olives,  apples 


SANTA     ROSA-SONOMA    COUNTY.  303 

and  nuts  are  grown  in  the  foothills.  Of  the  land  suited  for  the 
(,'rowth  of  staple  crops,  grapes,  olives,  fruit  and  berries,  not  one-half 
IB  under  cultivation,  leaving  a  vast  field  for  future  development. 

The  population  of  the  county  is  forty  thousand,  mostly  engaged  in 
agricultural  pursuits.  Its  assessed  wealth  is  $29,000,000.  Its  annual 
production  of  wealth  from  the  soil  is  $7,500,000.  This  is  one  hundred 
and  seventy-five  dollars  per  capita  for  every  inhabitant,  including 
women,  children  and  all  othernon-producera.  Or  to  put  it  another 
way,  it  is  nine  hundred  dollars  a  year  for  every  registered  voter  in 
the  county. 

The  view  of  the  great  central  valley  of  Santa  Hosa,  especially  from 
the  coast  hills  opposite  its  bach  ground  of  encircling  mountains  is  of 
vast  extent  and  beauty.  The  central  setting  in  this  landscape  is  St.  , 
Helena,  visible  tar  out  to  sea,  a  conspicuous  land  mark  in  Northern 
California,  blue  as  the  ocean  It  overlooks  or  the  sky  whose  color  it 
reflects, 

Russia  was  once  anxious  to  plant  its  cushioned  claws  in  the  soil  of 


Northern  California,  and  ^ 


A  Sonoma  Wbest  Fieui. 

aggressive  ambition  and  skillful  diplomacy  of  that  powerful  nation. 
Just  before  their  departure  from  Ross,  the  Russian  settlement  on 
the  cost  of  Sonoma,  in  1841,  Wossenessky,  a  naturalist,  ascended  the 
mountain,  attached  a  lead  plate  to  its  summit  bearing  the  day  and 
date  of  the  ascent  and  the  name  Helena  which  he  bestowed  upon  the 
mountain  in  honor  of  his  Imperial  mistress,  the  Empress  of  Russia, 
thus  marking  the  end  of  an  unequalled  march  of  conquest  and 
colonization  extending  from  the  Ural  Mountains  in  European  Asia 
through  Siberia  to  Alaska  and  thence  to  the  northwest  coast  of  Cali- 

In  the  morning  shadow  of  St.  Helena  the  spires  and  domes  of 
Santa  Rosa  peer  through  the  trees  and  foliage  in  which  the  city  is 
half  hidden.  The  surrounding'  level  lands  and  terraced  foothills  are 
covered  with  orchards  and  vineyards.  Three  of  the  largest  wineries 
in  the  State  are  in  Sonoma  county,  two  of  which  are  in  or  near  Santa 
Kosa.  They  have  made  the  wines  of  Sonoma  as  famous  as  the 
Falemian  of  ancient,  or  the  Chianti  of  modem  Italy.  At  the  late 
exposition  in  Paris  Sonoma  wine  was  excluded  from  competition  on 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


In  t 


;  the  European  wine-growers  afraid  of  a  & 


a  technicalit7.    Wei 
paralive  teat  ? 

Just  west  of  Santa  Rosa  is  the  Gold  Ridg^  country,  where  the  tiest 
apples,  berries,  stone  and  seed  fruits  in  the  State  are  grown.  It  is 
tifteen  miles  in  letig'th  by  a  width  of  six  miles,  and  is  one  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  Santa  Rosa  valley,  which  it  parallels  and 
bounds  for  fifteen  miles  on  the  west.  Its  soil  is  a  rich  sandy  loam, 
apparently  of  marine  origin,  naturally  drained  and  easily  cultivated. 
Apples  are  a  very  profitable  crop  on  this  fruit  ridge.  They  produce 
with  proper  care  and  culture  forty  t>oxea  to  the  tree,  worth  from 
thirty-five  to  seventy-five  cents  a  box.  There  are  eighty  trees  on  an 
acre.  The  yield  is  readily  fig'ured,  and  runs  into  hundreds  of  dollars 
per  acre.  Prunes  yield  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
dollars  per  acre,  and  berries  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per  acre. 
The  experimental  farm  of  Luther  Burbank,  "the  Wizard  of  the 
Garden,"  is  on  this  ridge,  though  his  home  is  in  Santa  Kosa. 


SANTA    ROSA-SONOMA    COUNTY.  307 

On  the  coast  south  of  Gold  Ridge  there  is  a  district  of  low  rolling* 
hills,  open  to  the  sea,  bare  of  trees  and  covered  with  a  rich  sward  of 
native  grass,  green,  or  nearly  so,  the  year  round.  Some  of  the 
largest  creameries  and  dairy  farms  in  the  State  are  situated  in  this 
ideal  dairy  country. 

Sonoma  is  a  well-watered  county.  Through  all  its  valleys  there 
are  running  streams  proportioned  in  volume  to  the  catchment  which 
supplies  them.  Russian  River,  the  largest  in  the  county,  enters  it 
from  Mendocino,  flows  southeasterly  for  twenty  miles,  turns  west,  and 
finds  its  way  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  through  a  depression  in  the  Coast 
range.  The  streams  of  the  smaller  valleys,  for  twenty  miles  north 
and  an  equal  distance  south,  flow  into  and  through  its  channel  to  the 
sea.  Excepting  Petaluma,  Sonoma  and  the  Gualala  valleys,  it  drains 
the  entire  county.  There  are  innumerable  springs  of  fresh  and 
mineral  water  in  the  county.  Among  the  latter  the  more  noted  are 
the  Greysers,  Lytton  and  Taylor's  White  Sulphur  Springs  near  Santa 
Rosa. 

One  of  the  remarkable  topographical  features  of  the  county  is  the 
canon  through  which  Russian  River  flows  to  the  sea.  The  tallest 
and  largest  redwood  trees  in  the  State  originally  grew  on  the  bottom 
lands  of  this  canon. 

It  is  a  valley  through  the  Coast  range  rather  than  a  canon  in  the 
strict  sense  of  that  much  abused  Spanish  word.  The  fall  from  where 
the  river  enters  the  depression  to  the  sea  is  not  more  than  sixty  feet 
in  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.  It  is  not  rugged  or  precipitous,  but 
bold  and  picturesque.  The  air  is  cool  and  bracing.  An  August 
morning  in  this  valley  can  only  be  compared  with  the  few  days  on 
the  Atlantic  slope,  when  all  nature  throbs  with  the  burst  of  spring. 
Five  thousand  people  from  San  Francisco  and  other  parts  of  the 
State  summered  there  during  the  months  of  July  and  August  of  the 
present  year.  Here  the  Grove  of  Bohemia,  the  summer  camp  of  the 
Bohemian  Club  of  San  Francisco,  is  situated. 

The  cultivation  of  the  olive,  and  manufacture  of  its  products,  is  an 
increasing  industry  in  Sonoma  County.  It  now  has  one  hundred 
thousand  trees,  mostly  in  bearing.  Olive  oil  made  in  Sonoma  county 
took  a  gold  medal  at  the  Paris  Exhibition  and  the  first  prize  at  the 
World's  Fair  at  Chicago.  It  took  thirty  years  for  the  Californians 
to  learn  the  art  of  making  and  ripening  wine.  It  may  take  some 
time  for  them  to  learn  how  to  make  olive  oil  at  a  price  which  will 
compete  with  the  cheaper  manufacture  of  Europe ;  but  American 
ingenuity  will  in  the  end  accomplish  it.  The  export  of  olive  oil  from 
Sonoma  will  then  be  among  its  largest  products. 

There  is  a  considerable  quicksilver  production  in  Sonoma.  One 
mine  near  Guemeville  has  been  successfully  worked  for  twenty 
years,  and  there  are  other  mines  of  great  promise  near  the  Geyser 
Spring  in  course  of  development. 

One  of  the  most  profitable  industries  in  Sonoma  county  is  poultry 
raising.  It  yields  an  annual  product  of  $2,000,000  a  year,  of  which 
more  than  one  half  is  shipped  from  Petaluma.  This  large  sum  is 
cash  on  the  nail  every  day  for  the  amount  sold.  Ivike  the  nimble 
nickel  or  compound  interest  it  runs  quickly  into  dollars  by  the  thou- 
sands. Petaluma  is  an  up-to-date  town  with  an  important  manufact- 
uring interest,  a  large  commerce  and  many  beautiful  homes.  It  is 
divided  in  its  midst  by  a  navigable  estuary  leading  inland  from  the 
Bay  of  San  Pablo.  Twice  in  every  twenty-four  hours  the  tides  of 
the  Pacific  ebb  and  flow  through  the  city.  It  is  but  thirty  miles  by 
water  from  Petaluma  to  San  Francisco.  It  is  especially  noted  as  a 
poultry  and  dairy  center.  It  is  surrounded  by  poultry  farms  of  all 
sizes  from  a  few  hundred  hens  up  to  the  great  ranges  of  I^eghoms 
with  incubator  capacity  for  hatching  3,000  hens  at  a  setting.  Three 
thousand  dollars  is  paid  out  every  day  in  cash  for  poultry  products, 
and  nearly  as  much  butter,  cheese,  and  milk  and  cream.  The  advan- 
tages of  poultry  raising  in  Sonoma  county  are  nearness  and  reliabil- 
ity of  market,  quick  cash  sales,  length  of  the  season,  abundance 
of  green  food  and  certainty  of  crops  without  irrigation.    On  a  few 


308  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

acres  of  land  a  poultry  farmer  can  make  a  good  living-  for  a.  family. 

A  further  account  of  this  prosperous  city  and  its  manufacturing  and 
commercial  interests  will  be  given  in  a  future  article. 

There  is  no  excessive  heat  or  cold,  day  or  night,  throug-hout  the 
year  in  Sonoma  county.  It  is  at  all  times  moderate  even  in  its  ex- 
tremes. The  mean  temperature  of  January  ia  52°;  February,  54°  ; 
March,  55°;  April,  57°;  May,  60°  ;  June,  64°  ;  July,  66°;  AugTist,  67° ; 
September,  67°  ;  October,  62° ;  November,  58°  ;  December,  55°. 
Average  winter  mean  53°;  average  summer  mean,  67°.  December, 
January  and  February  are  equivalent  to  May  in  the  New  England 
States,  and  July  and  August  to  May  in  the  Middle  States.  The 
trade  winds  beginning  in  May  lower  the  summer  temperature  and 
the  warm  current  along  the  coast  raises  it  in  the  winter  months. 
Santa  Rosa  is  on  the  same  parallel  of  latitude  as  Richmond,  Va., 
but  its  winter  climate  is  that  of  Southern  Florida,  ten  degrees  south 
of  Richmond.  The  ocean  currents  of  the  Atlantic  coast  are  the  re- 
verse of  those  of  the  Pacific  ocean  ;  an  Arctic  current  there  increases 
the  cold  of  winter  and  the  Gait  stream  the  heat  of  summer. 

The  subtle  influence  of   the  ocean  on  the   growth  of  a  redwood 


forest  has  been  shown.  There  is  no  partiality  in  nature  and  the 
hidden  alchemy  of  the  ocean  may  extend  through  all  gradations  of 
plant  life,  from  the  matted  chapparal  and  creeping  vine  to  the  kingly 
redwood  with  its  centuries  of  concentric  rings,  its  dee  ply- rooted  bole, 
two  hundred  feet  in  the  clear,  to  the  spring  of  its  lofty  crest.  This 
may  account  for  the  productiveness  of  all  plant  life  in  the  coast 
counties,  and  the  range  of  the  harvest,  which  begins  with  the  ripen- 


ing of  the  olive  and  citrus  fruits  in  December,  and  overlaps  tl 
ripening  of  deciduous  fruits  in  May.  But  it  is  a  waste  of  time 
search  for  a  cause  of  these  recurring  winter  harvests.     It  is  enough 


to  know  that  they  come  year  after  year  with  the  certainty  of  other 
taws  of  nature,  and  fulfill  the  scriptural  promise  to  the  Israelites  of 
a  land — "  Where  the  plowman  shall  overtake  the  reaper  and  the 
treader  of  grapes  him  that  soweth  seed." 

This  outline  of  the  location,  area  and  climate  of  Sonoma  county 
makes  it  unnecessary  to  go  into  details  of  this,  that  or  the  other 


SANTA     ROSA-SONOMA    COUNTY.  309 

product.  Given  a  fertile  soil,  abundant  rainfall,  no  extreme  of  heat 
or  cold,  and  deductions  present  themselves  with  mathematical  cer- 
tainty. But  if  an  object  lesson  is  preferred,  the  green  hills,  ({olden 
poppies,  ripe  oranges  and  blooming  roses  of  February,  the  mytho- 
logical month  of  fecundation,  will  furnish  it  for  the  most  skeptical. 

Santa  Kosa.  the  capital  of  Sonoma  county,  dates  its  municipal 
esisteoce  from  the  autumn  of  1854,  when  the  county  seat  wag  re- 
moved by  a  vole  of  the  people  from  the  old  capital — the  town  of 
Sonoma— to  its  new  home.  Its  jubilee  will  be  three  years  hence  in 
September,  1904.  The  county  archives  were  brought  to  Santa  Rosa 
in  a  four-horse  wagon,  and  with  them  came  the  now  venerable  ex- 
Supreme  Judge  McKinstry,  then  District  Judge  of  Sonoma.  A 
masonic  hall,  store,  saloon,  Julio  Garillo's  residence  and  a  hostelry 
was  all  the  town.  The  fare  at  the  hotel  was  rather  primitive,  and 
Judge  McKinstry  fell  upon  an  extra-judicial  plan  to  improve  it.    The 


walls  of  the  house  were  of  canvas,  and  what  was  said  in  one  room 
could  be  heard  in  all  the  others.  One  day  when  the  Judge  knew  the 
landlord  and  his  wife  were  in  ear-ahot  he  said  to  a  brother  lawyer  : 

"  There  is  no  use  trying  to  keep  the  county  seat  at  Santa  Rosa. 
Justice  can't  be  dispensed  on  the  fare  furnished  at  this  hotel — t  shall 
order  the  sheriff  to  move  back  to  Sonoma."  The  scheme  worked ; 
there  was  immense  and  immediate  improvement  in  the  bill  of  tare. 

The  landlord,  who  was  more  interested  in  the  reality  of  the  new 
town,  than  in  the  hotel,  afterwards  boasted  that  he  saved  the  county 
seat  to  Santa  Rosa  by  feeding  the  Judge  on  fried  chickens,  antelope 
steak,  trout  and  such  other  delicacies  as  the  stream*  and  hunting 
grounds  near  the  new  capital  then  abundantly  afforded.  At  all 
events  there  was  no  further  complaint  of  the  hotel  fare. 

The  city  of  Santa  Rosa  was  named  from  the  valley,  the  val- 
ley for  the  stream  and  the  stream  was  first  so  called  by  Father 
Amoros,  a  worthy  priest  in  charge  of  the  Miasion  of  San 
Kafael.  Father  Amoros  left  his  cure  in  the  summer  of  1S21  on  a 
proselyting  expedition  to  the  then  unknown  north.    On  reaching  the 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


Photo,  bj  Shaw 


stream  he  persuaded  an  Indian  girl  to  accept  the  rite  of  baptiani  and 
named  her  Koaa,  it  being  the  29th  of  August,  the  feast  day  of  Santa 
Rosa  de  Lima.  So  it  happened  that  the  name  of  the  beautiful 
Limeiia  was  g'iven  to  the  river,  valley  and  city  of  Santa  Hosa.* 
Father  Amoros  died  some  years  later  in  San  Rafael  and,  according 
to  tradition,  he  was  as  rich  in  virtues  as  the  soil  in  which  hia  good 
deeds  fruited. 

From  1854  to  1871  Santa  Rosa  made  little  advance.    It  was  the 
county  seat  of  a  stock-growing,  grain-farm- 
ulation.    The  land  was  held   in  large 
there  was  no  diversity  of  crops  and 
r  no    fruit    culture.       Attention   was 
jwn  to  the  coast  counties  by  the  extra- 
7  yield  in   what  was  known  as  drouth 
1  the  interior.    Just  before  the  drouth 
f   1863-4  the    late    George   W.    Davis 
led  one   hundred   and  sixty   acres   of 
icn  bordering  on  the  present  city  of 
Rosa.      With   the  yield  of   a  crop  of 
harvested  that  year,  he  paid  for  the 
lis  farming  outfit,  and  had  a  small 
cash  surplus.    There  are  other  sim- 
ilar results  of  a  single  crop  in  a  dry 
year  —  this  particular   instance    is 
noted  because  the  land  is  now  actu- 
ally a  part  of  the  city  of  Santa  Rosa. 
When   the   first   railroad   reached 
Santa  Rosa  in  1871  it  had  less  than 
one    thousand    inhabitants,    which 
increased  in  the  next  few  years  to 
three  thousand,  since  which  time  it 
has    had    a    rapid    and   prosperous 
growth.      It   is  now  surrounded  by 
many  small  well  cultivated  farms. 
It  has  a  very   large  outlying   hop, 
fruit  and  wine  interest  which  cen- 
"  ters  in  the  city.     Not  less  than  six- 
^teen   thousand    bales  of  hops  and 


K  Nbwbr  TypB. 


G.  Vallejo. 


erlpt  le 


le  General  M. 


SANTA     ROSA-SONOMA    COUNTY.  311 

large  quantities  of  fresh,  dried  and  canned  fruits,  veg-etables,  grapes 
and  wine  are  sold  in  Santa  Rosa.  There  is  a  rapidly  increasing'  in- 
dustry in  growing-  vegetables  for  canning,  especially  asparagus, 
tomatoes  and  string  tieans,  all  of  which  are  profitable  crops.  The 
yield  of  tomatoes  per  acre  ia  astonishing ;  they  thrive  beyond  all 
precedent  in  the  coast  atmosphere. 

There  are  four  tianks  in  Santa  Rosa,  "  The  Bank  of  Santa  Rosa," 
"The  Savings  Bank  of  Santa  Rosa."  "The  Santa  Rosa  National 
Bank."  and  the  "Exchange  Banit."  The  Santa  Rosa  Bank  ia  the 
oldest  n'ith  the  largest  paid  up  capital;  all  carry  large  lines  of  de- 
posits and  are  on  sound  financial  bases. 

Santa  Rosa  has  made  quite  a  start  in  manufactures  in  the  last  fen 
years.  The  output  of  its  woolen  mill,  especially  blankets,  cannot 
meet  the  demand  for  theni  in  the  markets  of  the  East.  It  has  a  large 
tannery,  four  fruit  canneries,  several  fruit-drying  factories,  and  a 
large  flouring  mill.     It  has  a  municipal  water  system,  and  is  the 


A  Sahta  Rosa  School  House.  Photo,  by  Staao. 

only  city  in  the  United  States  where  water  for  domestic  purposes  is 
supplied  free  to  its  inhabitants.  The  expense  of  the  system  is- borne 
entirely  by  the  city. 

Santa  Hosa  has  a  rural  mail  delivery  extending  for  a  distance  of 
aeven  miles  around  the  city.  It  has  a  gas  and  electric  system  to  be 
greatly  enlarged  in  the  near  future  and  extended  to  street  car  lines 
and  manufacturing  purposes.  It  has  a  large  commodious  and  strictly 
modern  high  school  building  and  an  equally  well  built  and  equipped 
business  college,  with  students  from  all  parts  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
It  has  a  fine  public  library,  three  grammar  schools,  a  college  and 
Ursaljne  Academy. 

There  are  140  grammar  schools,  five  high  schools,  237  public  school 
teachers  and  9,726  school  children  in  Sonoma  county.  The  annual 
expenditure  for  public  schools  is  $209,392.17. 

Santa  Rosa  is  a  progressive  city  of  educational  institutions,  com- 
mercial enterprise  and  homes.  Two  hundred  houses  have  been  built 
in  the  past  two  years,  and  there  is  still  a  demand  for  houses  to  rent. 
It  is  a  city  noted  for  its  fine  churches,  of  which  there  are  at  least  six 
elegant  structures  which  would  do  credit  to  any  city.     Besides  its 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


Tobacco  in  Northekn  Sokoha  Codktv-  Photo,  by  Shaw- 

orthodox  congreg^tioiiB  it  has  a  People's  Church  for  all  creeds— a 
modem  Pantheoa  in  principle  if  not  in  architectural  grandure. 

Rincon  Heights,  overlooking  the  city,  Rincon  Valley  and  Bennett 
Valley,  east  and  south,  are  attractive  locations  for  small  farms  and 
suburl^n  residences  in  easy  reach  of  the  town.  In  fact  the  city  ia 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  a  highly  prosperous  population  of  horti- 
culturists, viticulturists  and  other  farmers. 

The  affairs  of  the  city  are  manag'ed  by  a  progressive  Mayor  and 
counsel.  It  has  an  efficient  paid  lire  department  and  well  kept  streets. 

Santa  Rosa  has  long  tieen  noted  for  its  gardens  of  rare  ornamental 
trees  and  flowers.  It  is  the  natural  home  of  roses,  geraniums,  lilies 
and  fuchsias.  The  latter  plant  if  left  to  itself  will  overrun  a  house 
with  its  blossoms,  and  the  hedges  of  geraniums  fairly  dazzle  the  eye 
with  their  brilliance.  Roses  run  riot  in  the  trees  and  bloom  in  their 
tops  if  not  restrained.  The  gardens  of  the  city  are  worthy  of  its 
patron  Saint  Rose,  and  the  home  of  the  magician  of  horticulture, 
Luther  Burbank.  In  a  few  years  a  vacant  lot  in  Santa  Rosa  can  be 
made  to  bloom  with  fruits  and  flowers.  It  required  the  strength  of 
Hercules  to  gather  the  fruit  of  the  "Garden  of  the  Heaperides."  In 
this  modern  "  Garden  of  the  West"  every  man  may  have  them  over- 
hanging the  roof  of  his  domicile  or  peering  in  at  his  windows  with 
no  more  labor  than  is  required  to  plant  a  tree  and  give  it  reasonable 
care  for  a  few  years. 

No  part  of  the  Pacific  Coast  oEFers  greater  advantages  than  the 
counties  fronting  on  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  of  which  Sonoma  is 
one  of  the  most  attractive.  It  is  less  known  and  less  densely  popu- 
lated than  other  counties  of  its  class,  but  the  sound  of  coming  thou- 
sands may  be  heard  by  those  who  have  ears  to  hear. 

It  is  a  country  for  men  of  moderate  means,  because  a  few  acres 
will  support  a  family,  and  the  soil  and  climate  will  supply  with  it 
the  physical  enjoyments  of  life  attainable  only  by  the  extremely  rich 
in  less  favored  countries.  It  is  a  land  with  the  climate  of  Southern 
France  and  Italy,  the  fruits  of  the  islands  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea, 
but,  unlike  those  countries,  it  is  not  outworn  by  cultivation  or  scared 
by  conquests  and  revolutions.  It  is  fresh  from  the  hand  of  nature, 
with  the  laws,  traditions  and  methods  of  self-restrained  resourceful 
American  citizens. 


An  Old  Mexican  Grant. 


ITS    TRANSFORMATION    SINCE   1849. 


Gf  N  1849,  Dr.  T.  S.  Page,  of  Valparaiso,  Chili,  purchased  from  Gen. 
I  M.  G.  Vallejo  a  tract  of  many  thousand  acres  of  land  in  the 
^  center  of  Sonoma  county,  known  as  the  Rancho  Cotati.  Dr. 
Page  bequeathed  the  property  to  his  children  under  the  proviso 
that  it  should  be  kept  as  a  whole  until  the  youngest  of  the  family 
reached  his  majority,  which  event  not  long  since  occurred.  So  it 
happened  that  ten  thousand  acres  of  the  best  valley  land  in  Sonoma 
county,  lying  midway  between  Santa  Rosa  and  Petaluma,  was  en- 
closed and  held  as  a  whole.  It  was  mainly  used  for  grazing  until  the 
last  few  years,  when  it  was  subdivided  into  tracts  of  ten  acres  and 
upward  and  offered  for  sale  at  moderate  prices.  But  little  of  the 
land  has  been  under  cultivation.  The  soil  is  not  worn  out,  which 
cannot  be  said  of  all  land  within  forty  miles  of  San  Francisco.  San 
Francisco  is  growing  rapidly,  and  land  in  its  immediate  neighbor- 
hood, suitable  for  the  production  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  must 
greatly  enhance  in  value.    In  this  location  the  cost  of  transportation, 

which  cuts  such  a  figure  in  the  profits  of  farming,  is  reduced  to  a 
minimum. 

The  whole  State  is  benefited  by  the  subdivision  of  such  a  tract  as 
the  Cotati.  Where  only  a  few  men  made  a  living  by  cattle  or  sheep- 
herding  there  are  now  hundreds  of  families  who  have  purchased 
homes  and  are  making  a  good  living  raising  fruits,  vegetables  and 
berries  combined  with  poultry  raising,  the  most  profitable  industry 
in  the  State  considering  the  small  amount  of  capital  required.  It  is 
well  known  that  Sonoma  county  is  the  b<;st  in  the  State  for  poultry, 
owing  to  its  climate,  soil  and  cheap  transportation  charges.  Think 
of  being  able  to  ship  a  case  of  thirty-six  dozen  eggs  to  San  Fran- 
cisco for  ten  to  twelve  cents  a  case,  the  empty  returned  free  of 
charge.  Hens  pay  from  75c  to  $1  net  per  annum.  There  are  farms 
of  two  thousand  hens  on  the  Cotati,  run  in  combination  with  fruit 
culture,  the  one  industry  helping  the  other.  The  business  is  so  large 
that  it  consumes  the  whole  excess  of  wheat  grown  in  the  county  and 
this  enables  the  wheat-grower  to  get  from  $1  to  $2  more  per  ton  for 
his  wheat  in  the  home  market  than  if  shipped  to  San  Francisco. 

The  railroad  runs  through  the  tract  for  eight  miles,  giving  a  front- 
age of  the  subdivided  tracts,  counting  both  sides,  of  sixteen  miles. 
No  subdivision  in  the  tract  is  more  than  one  or  two  miles  from  the 
road.  The  price  of  good  land  on  the  Cotati  ranges  from  $60  to  $90 
per  acre.  Its  advantages  are  cheap  transportation,  a  fertile  soil,  no 
irrigation,  and  therefore  no  malarial  fevers  or  noxious  insects.  So 
called  dry  or  drouth  years  are  the  best  in  Sonoma  county.  In  the 
drouth  year  of  1898  two  thousand  acres  on  the  Cotati  produced  6,000 
tons  of  hay  worth  $13  per  ton,  in  contrast  with  almost  complete  fail- 
ure elsewhere,  beside  the  product  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  small 
farms  sold  off  the  tract,  all  of  which  produced  exceptionally  large 
crops.  This  object  lesson  illustrates  better  than  anything  that  can 
be  said  the  productiveness  of  the  Cotati  ranch.  No  fruit  pays  better 
than  apples ;  combined  with  poultry-raising  it  is  very  profitable. 
The  uplands  of  the  tract  are  a  continuation  of  the  Gold  Ridge,  where 
the  best  apples  and  other  fruits  in  the  State  are  grown. 

The  land  is  being  sold  for  the  benefit  of  the  heirs  of  Dr.  Page,  and 
is  incorporated  under  the  name  of  **  The  Cotati  Company.**  Anyone 
desiring  a  home  in  California  cannot  do  so  well  anywhere  else  as  by 
addressing  the  Cotati  Company,  302  California  street,  San  Francisco, 
for  full  information  and  details,  including  descriptive  pamphlet  and 
map  of  the  ranch  and  its  subdivisions. 


T^tie     Land    of     Sunshine 

PUBUSHBD  MONTHIfY  BY 

The  Land  of  Suxislnine  F'ubllalilns  Co. 

( ZNCORPOR  ATBD  ) 

Rooms  1.  7-9 ;    121^  South  Broadway,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.,  U.  S.  A. 
San  Francisco  Office,  310  Pine  St.;  Robt.  A.  Thompson,  Mgr. 


SUBSCRIPTION  rat;:s 


HEADS  OF  DEPARTMENTS 

^?8.  FtYuMMis        ■-        ■-      ^l"EdUo5ll       *1  %Z^L^''  ^^*  ^""^'^  S^*«^  '•^°*^»   *«<» 
F.  A.  Pattbe  -  -  -  Business       ^,    «i«xtco. 

Chas.  a.  Moodt  -  •        Sabscriptlou       '^'^  ^  y^^^  ^  other  countries  iit  the  Postal 

Union. 
Entered  at  the  Los  Angeles  Postoffice  as  second-class  matter. 


Our  Irrigation  Department. 

**  The  Reasonkr," 
San  Luis  Obispo,  July  6,  1901. 

Publishers  Land  of  Sunshine, 
Los  Angeles : 

Grentlemen  :  I  felt  a  thrill  of  joy  as  I 
opened  your  copy  at  the  page  marking 
your  announcement  of  a  new  depart- 
ment of  so  vital  an  interest  to  the  West 
and  to  humanity.  The  good  that  you 
may  accomplish  is  beyond  estimate. 
Your  magazine  ought  to  have  the  en- 
thusiastic support  of  every  good  man 
and  woman  into  whose  hands  it  may 
fall.  Yours  sincerely, 

J.  K.  TuLEY. 


From  Ex.  Qov.  Adams  of  Colorado. 

Pueblo,  Colo.,  Aug.  15, 1901. 

Wm.  E.  Smythe,  Esq., 

Los  Angeles : 

Dear  Sir :  I  am  glad  to  note  that 
the  author  of  **  The  Conquest  of  Arid 
America**  has  opened  a  department  in 
The  Land  of  Sunshine.  I  consider 
the  reservoir  and  irrigation  question 
the  pressing  problem  of  the  age. 

Accept  the  assurance  of  my  sym- 
pathy and  interest  in  the  work. 

Very  truly, 

Alva  Adams. 


Local  Entertainments. 

Ladies  :  Treat  your  friends  to  the 
prettiest  original  party,  reception,  ball, 
wedding,  dinner  luncheon  or  german, 
for  the  season  ;  planned  and  carried 
out  by  a  lady  celebrated  for  original 
and  elegant  entertainment.  Also  con- 
certs and  theatricals  for  church,  so- 
ciety or  school.  All  favors,  confec- 
tions, decorations,  costumes  and  stag- 
ing supplied  if  desired.  Outline,  25c. 
No  cards  or  letters  without  stamps 
answered.  Fashionable  men's  and 
women's   clothing. 

Address,  Mrs.  L.  Crouday, 
Minneapolis,  Minn, 


An  Up-to-Date  Idei^. 

The   Land  of  Sunshhyb  is  a  magrazine  in 
which  our  State  may  well  take  pride,  and  which 
every  Californian    should   read,      tt  has  pub- 
lished dnrinff  the  seven  years  of  it     existence, 
more  valuable  and  nuiqae  information  about 
the  West  than  can  be  had  from  all  other  sonrces 
combined.    It  portrays  Western  life  and  con- 
ditions as  they  are,  not  as  some  irresponsible 
writer  fancies  them  to  be.    In  scientific  and  de. 
script! ve  articles,    in    fiction    and    verse,  thia 
standard  has  been  closely  adhered  to,  with  most 
satisfactory    results.      Its    June     number    an- 
nounces that,  beflrinninir  with  the  July  number, 
twenty  pasres  of  the  magazine  will  be  devoted 
to  a  department  under  the  title  of  "  The  Twen- 
tieth Century  West."    This  department  will  be 
edited  by  Mr.  Wra.  E.  Smythe,  author  of  **  Con- 
quest of  Arid  America,"  and  will  deal  partic- 
ularly with  irrifiration,  cooperation  and  coloni- 
zation.   These  are  subjects  of  practical  value 
to  every  citizen  of  the  West  and  their  intelli- 
arent  discussion  will  point  the  way  to  the  enact- 
ment  of    better   State   water   laws,   the    t>est 
methods   of    marketing    farm    products     and 
various    other  pertinent    matters.  —  Pa^  Al/o 
Times. 

More  Than  Any  Other. 

The  June  Land  of  Sunshine  announces 
that  beirinninflr  with  the  July  number  the  maira- 
zine  will  devote  about  twenty  padres  to  a  de- 
partment called  "The  Twentieth  Century 
West,"  which  will  deal  particularly  with  irri- 
gation, cooperation  and  colonization,  edited  by 
William  E.  Smythe,  the  author  of  "The  Con- 
quest of  Arid  America."  This  feature  promises 
to  firive  added  value  to  a  mairazine  which  has 
done  more  to  exploit  California  than  any  other 
—San  Francisco  Chronicle^  July  7. 

Unique. 

One  of  the  most  unique  and  consistently  ap- 
pointed stores  in  Los  Ansreles,  if  not  of  its  kind 
on  the  continent,  is  that  of  the  Pittsburg- 
Alnminum  Company,  312  S.  Spring-  Street. 

The  fixtures  of  this  establishment  are  painted 
to  effect  the  same  ware  that  rests  upon  its 
shelves  and  in  its  show-cases  and  windows- 
aluminum. 

Solid  as  is  pewter,  but  more  durable,  and  as 
handsome,  but  safer  from  theft  than  silver, 
aluminum  is  fast  taking  the  place  of  both  as 
well  as  of  those  pretenders,  tin  and  ag-ate  ware, 
as  kitchen  utensils,  table  ware,  notions,  etc. 


NOVEMBER,   1901 


A   WEEK   OF   WONDERS 

FLOWER    FREAKS 

EARLY    WESTERN    HISTORY 


Vol.  XV,  No.  S 
Rlcbly  !},   Y   : 

lUuatrated       Ij9 


CALIFORNIA  AND  THE  WEST 

EDITED  BY  CHAS.  F.  LUMMtS 


iilo.  bj-Mr';.  C.  T.  Bri.B 


'lAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA' 

CENTS  LOS  AN6EUS        SAN  TRANCISCO  ^|      t 


HnwWmr  310  Pine  Bt. 


MISCELLANEOUS 


GLACE 

^P  .1 II 11  .S^ 

"     Stuffed  With  WALNUT  iBEATS   " 

Bishop's  Glace  Stuffed  Prunes  stand  in  a  ClaM  b; 
themselves.  More  delicious  tlian  the  F'inest  Con- 
fectionery. A  product  typical  of  California.  Man> 
dealers  sell  them,  but  if  yours  does  not,  we  will 
send  you  a  full  pound  box  express  paid  for  7S  cents. 

BISHOP  &  COMPANY      LosAiigere$,Cal. 


Hotel  Westminster.... 

"?."™"K..  .....  LOS  ANGELES 


Tourist 
Hotel 

of 

Los  Angeles 

Every  Modem 
Comfort   and  Conveoience 
that  csn  be  found  in 
any  Hotel. 
Unrarpaaed  G<^  Links, 


F.  O.  JOHNSON,  Proprietor 


I 
it 


^ 


RECEIVED, 

Ctv}  0  1901 
PEABODY  MUSEUM. 


Thb  "Split  Thai 


VOL.  IS,  NO.  6  NOVCMBIR.  1901 

A  Week  of  Wonders. 

UKELY,    if     slowly,     an     almost    human     in- 
telligence   as    to    our    own    country    begins 
to    penetrate   the   Darkest     East.      To  those 
of   us  who    have   been    for  well-nigh  twenty 
years  belaboring  that  preoccupied  skull  with 
a  certain  Idea,  there  has  been  perhaps  rather 
much  suggestion  of  the  processes  alleged  to  be 
._  ^^         necessary  to  introduce  a  joke  to  the  Scotch  noggin 
— or  of  the  sequel  to  one  of  Depew'a  after-dinner 
stories   at    a    London    banquet.       A    fortnight 
later  he   met   Lord  Blank.      "D'ye  know,  Mr.  Depew,  it 
has  just  come  to  me  that  you  were  joking." 

"By  freight,  I  see,"  answered  Chauncey  blandly. 
But  if  by  freight  rather  than  express,  it  is  at  last  really 
"coming  to"  the  more  permeable  Easterner  that  we  were 
not  joking  all  these  years  when  we  assured  him  that  the 
World's  Wonderland  is  not  in  Europe,  not  in  Egypt,  not  in 
Asia,  but  in  the  West  of  our  own  United  States ;  that  area 
for  area  no  other  land  on  earth  is  half  so  crowded  with 
marvels  of  the  first  magnitude  and  of  such  range — in  anti- 
quities, scenery,  anthropology  and  picturesquenesses  in 
every  sort.  On  a  modest  scale,  at  last — heretofore,  the 
scale  was  immodestly  small  to  such  as  care  for  the  good 
name  of  a  country  believed  to  have  brains — Americans  are 
beginning  to  peck  at  this  incomparable  treasure-house. 
No  man  now  young  might  hope  to  exhaust  its  infinite 
variety ;  not  half  a  hundred  people  have  ever  seriously 
entered  upon  large  comprehension  of  it ;  tens  of  millions 


316  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

of  Americans  know  as  much  about  it  as  the}'  do  of  Mars. 
But  it  is  a  distinct  gain  when  even  a  few  thousands  arouse 
sufficiently  to  attempt  its  A,  B,  C. 

A  party  by  no  means  to  be  reckoned  as  "tenderfoot," 
nor  open  to  the  general  reproach  of  unpatriotic  neglect 
and  ignorance  of  our  own  Wonder-Book,  has  just  made  a 
Little  Journey  in  the  Wilderness — by  which  others  might 
profit.  They  had  no  supernatural  powers.  They  were 
just  People,  like  the  rest  of  us.  They  came  out  alive  and 
hearty — neither  "  scalped  by  Indians,"  of  whom  they  saw 
some  thousand,  nor  murdered  by  Western  desperados,  two 
or  three  of  whom  ministered  unto  their  thirst  for  archaeo- 
logic  knowledge  :  nor  even  overtaken  with  the  crack  of 
doom  because  of  remotenesses  from  railroads  and  hotels. 
They  came  out  richer  for  sights  and  experiences  they  will 
not  forget.  A  hasty  sketch  of  what  they  did  in  a  week, 
and  how,  in  **  hitting  the  high  places"  of  a  little  part  of 
the  Southwestern  Wonderland,  may  be  of  use  in  pricking 
others.  There  is  no  structural  reason  why  anyone  of  toler- 
able mind  and  body  may  not  go  and  do  likewise — and  even 
more.  One  does  not  have  to  be  a  railroad  magnate  or  a 
retired  millionaire  in  order  to  '*see  things."  All  it  takes 
is  brains  enough  to  care  to  see  them,  pluck  enough  to 
follow  where  women  and  children  have  led,  and  about  the 
same  mone}'  one  would  expect  to  spend  in  the  same  time  in 
jumping  the  usual  shadows  with  the  rest  of  the  sheep. 

A  special  train  of  four  private  cars  left  Albuquerque, 
N.  M.,  by  the  "  Santa  Fe  Route"  at  11.45  p.m.,  Oct.  21, 
carrying  E.  P.  Ripley,  President  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka 
&  Santa  Fe  R.R.,  his  wife,  son  Frederick,  daughters  Miss 
Ripley  and  Mrs.  Jerome  A.  Ellis,  Jwome  A.  Ellis,  Miss 
Snyder,  Miss  Pay  son,  Mrs.  J.  R.  McColl ;  Paul  Morton, 
First  Vice-President  (son  of  J.  Sterling  Morton,  of  Cleve- 
land's Cabinet,  the  founder  of  Arbor  Day);  J.  W. Kendrick, 
Third  Vice-President,  with  his  wife ;  Howel  Jones,  a 
director  ;  J.  A.  Post ;  A.  G.  Wells,  General  Superintendent 
of  the  Santa  Fe  Pacific  R.R.,  and  his  wife ;  Ford  C. 
Harvey,  head  of  the  longest  and  best  line  of  railway  eat- 
ing-houses in  the  world ;  H.  Maratta,  the  well-known 
artist,  a  '*  pilot,"  and  the  inseparable  corps  of  stenog- 
raphers. 

Sidetracked  at  the  lone  section-house  of  Cubero,  72  miles 
west  of  Albuquerque,  we  saw  the  sun  rise  on  the  22nd. 
Robert  Marmon,  a  reliable  "old-timer,"  was  at  the  train 
at  7.30  with  his  caravan  of  comfortable  wagons  and  good 
teams  driven  by  their  Indian  owners,  and  a  few  saddle- 
horses — all  from  the  Indian  pueblo  of  Laguna,  where  he 
lives.     The  tail-end  of  October  is  already  late  for  an  alti- 


The  Cahino  Del  Padke,  Acoma>  Pboiu.  b^  Chas,  F.  Lan 


A     WEEK    OF    WONDERS. 


tude  of  near  7,000  feet,  and  a  faint  drizzle  was  on  ;  but  it 
could  not  dampen  people  who  see  such  sights  through  it. 

Up  the  cliff-rimmed  valley  which  opens  southward  from 
Cubero  (.named  for  the  Spanish  Governor  of  the  Territory 
in  16%);  past  mesas  [table  rocka]  still  crowned  with  the 
ruins  of  stone  towns  whose  story  was  already  forgotten 
when  Coronado  came  by  here  in  1540  ;  past  the  Ventana  (a 
wind-eroded  "window"  in  a  fine  and  lofty  butte  of  sand- 


320  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

stone;  past  the  superb  cliff-" island"  of  the  Enchanted 
Mesa,  on  which  a  Princeton  Professor  tried  to  kill  an 
Indian  legend,  and  succeeded  only  in  killing  his  own  repu- 
tation ;  and  onto  the  peerless  Rock  of  Acoma,  "the  City  in 
the  Sky,"  the  procession  wound,  amid  the  titan  petioles 
which  sentinel  that  enchanted  valley. 

Leaving  their  "  transportation"  at  the  foot  of  the  great 
cliflf,  the  party  clambered  up  the  Camino  del  Padre — the 
wonderfully  picturesque  "stone  ladder"  by  which  the 
Apostle  of  the  Acomas,  Fray  Juan  Ramirez,  ascended  in 
1629  amid  a  hail  of  arrows  and  with  a  famous  miracle. 
But  now  there  were  no  embattled  warriors.  When  the 
party  had  scaled  the  wild  trail  they  were  received  at  the 
top  by  the  Princtpales  and  Lorenso  Lino,  governor  of  this 
little  cliff-republic,  in  all  the  circumstance  of  a  drab 
"stove-pipe"  and  the  hereditary  cane  presented  to  the 
governor  of  Acoma  nearly  40  years  ago  by  one  A.  Lincoln. 

The  Acomas  have  their  own  (though  not  eccentric)  ideas 
as  to  the  average  tourist,  and  I  have  known  them  many 
times  to  turn  unceremonious  visitors  away  from  the  foot  of 
their  lofty  rock  ;  so  it  is  well  to  come  introduced.  Several 
good  Acoma  friends  of  mine,  now,  were  most  active  in 
"  running  me  off"  17  years  ago. 

Thanks  to  arrangements  through  Simon  Bibo,  the  long- 
time trader  at  Laguna,  we  had  not  only  welcome  but  accom- 
modations. The  governor's  big  living-room  was  prepared 
for  the  ladies.  The  men  were  housed  in  the  home  of  that 
dear  and  wise  old  man,  now  nine  years  dead,  Martin  Valle, 
Principal  Mayor^  and  many  times  governor  of  Acoma.  A 
third  very  large  room  was  devoted  to  eating. 

In  spite  of  such  a  Scotch  mist  as  very  rarely  befalls  in 
New  Mexico,  the  party  enjoyed  every  moment  of  its  sojourn 
in  this  strange  aerial  town,  exploring,  as  thoroughly  as 
might  be  in  so  brief  a  time,  a  place  in  which  any  active 
person  could  find  some  new  wonder  every  hour  of  every 
day  for  a  month.  The  pueblo  of  Acoma  stands  on  a 
roughly-oval  table-rock,  with  sides  perpendicular  or  over- 
hanging, 357  feet  high.  Its  area  on  top  is  about  70  acres. 
Its  huge  old  church  and  monastery — with  walls  seven  and  a 
half  feet  thick  and  forty  feet  high,  with  great  timbers 
brought  on  men's  shoulders  from  Mt.  San  Mateo,  30  miles 
away  ;  its  graveyard  nearly  200  feet  square,  over  40  feet 
deep  at  the  outer  edge,  boxed  with  a  stone  wall  and  filled 
with  sand  brought  up  from  the  plain  a  man-load  at  a  time  ; 
its  famous  old  painting  of  San  Jose,  presented  to  the  pueblo 
by  the  King  of  Spain  nearly  three  centuries  ago, 
and  cause  of  a  lawsuit  (and  almost  a  war)  with 
the   pueblo  of  Laguna ;    its  terraced  houses,  three  stories 


E  Ou>  Chubck  at  Acoma.       Pbota.  b 


J-  byChaa,P.  LommiR, 


324  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

hig^h  and  in  three  blocks  hundreds  of  yards  long — 
are  a  few  of  the  things  the  party  saw.  They  visited  the 
gentle,  happy  people  at  home,  saw  their  way  of  life, 
bought  Navajo  blankets,  gay  tinajas,  silver  bracelets  and 
earrings  made  by  Vicente  the  silversmith,  prehistoric 
arrowheads  of  obsidian  or  brilliant  agates,  and  other  real 
curios  such  as  one  does  not  find  in  the  shops  ;  and  had 
many  other  experiences  the  average  traveler  would  not  ex- 
pect to  find  in  America  and  never  did  find  elsewhere. 

After  lunch,  all  eight  ladies  of  the  party — and  one  gen- 
tleman— descended  the  dizzy  "  Split  Trail,"  down  which,  I 
believe,  only  six  white  women  ever  passed  before.  With 
Mrs.  Ripley  in  the  lead,  one  by  one  and  step  by  step  they 
were  let  down  the  precipitous  throat  of  that  wild  cleft ; 
were  swung  by  main  strength  down  and  around  a  perpen- 
dicular drop  whose  landing  was  a  boulder  20  inches  across, 
and  were  handed  around  the  precarious  footholds  of  the 
lower  ledges.  It  was  really  a  record  to  be  proud  of  when 
all  stood  safely  at  the  bottom  of  that  terrific  precipice, 
which  not  even  a  mountain  sheep  could  climb. 

One  best  understands  both  the  beauty  and  the  signific- 
ance of  Acoma  only  after  proving  the  trails  by  which  the 
town  is  reached.  The  erosion  of  this,  '*  the  noblest  single 
rock  in  America,"  has  no  known  parallel,  and  certainly  no 
other  town  in  the  world  is  approachable  only  by  such  fear- 
some paths. 

Prom  the  foot  of  the  *'  Split  Trail" — which  cannot  be 
photographed  reasonably — we  turned  a  few  hundred  feet 
south  and  came  up  the  beautifully  picturesque  '*  Staircase 
Trail,"  with  its  little  stone-hewn  steps  under  towering 
columns,  under  sacrificial  caves,  and  close  to  the  chasm 
across  which  the  soldier-poet  Villagran  made  his  wonderful 
leap  Jan.  23,  1599. 

By  the  time  we  had  ascended  this  third  trail,  we  were 
summoned  to  witness  the  dance  Grov.  Lino  had  ordered  in 
honor  of  the  party.  There  is  no  space  here  to  describe  the 
strange  and  impressive  ceremonial  we  call  **an  Indian 
dance" — the  measured  beat  of  the  tombi^  the  perfect  rhythm 
of  feet  and  voices,  the  symbolic  gesturings,  the  dignity  and 
reverence  of  the  whole  rite.  But  those  who  have  seen  such 
a  function — even  a  hasty  *' scratch"  performance — do  not 
soon  forget  it,  nor  yet  the  kaleidoscopic  groups  of  hushed 
spectators  upon  the  castellated  housetops. 

At  4  p.m.  the  oflScials  felt  constrained  to  return  to  the 
world,  and  their  wives  accompanied  them ;  but  five  of  the 
ladies,  the  younger  Mr.  Ripley,  Mr.  Ellis  and  Mr.  Maratta 
remained  on  Acoma — and  profited.  The  governor  haled-in 
two  young  braves  in  eagle-feather  war-bonnets,  who  did  a 


a.  byCbaa.  F.  Lommi 


A    WEEK    OF    WONDERS.  327 

remarkable  war-dance — a  marvel  of  precision  and  rapidity 
— in  the  spacious  room.  Later  in  the  night  I  found  in  an 
upper  dwelling — and  was  allowed  to  bring  the  party  to  wit- 
ness— a  private  performance  worth  crossing  the  continent 
to  see.  Along  the  north  wall  of  the  large  living-room  an 
Indian  family  sat  laughing  and  applauding.  Upon  a 
blanket  spread  in  front,  full  in  the  firelight  glow,  the  four- 
year-old  son,  with  eagle  feathers  in  his  hair  and  no  other 
incumbrance  than  a  slender  G-string,  stepped  a  sacred 
dance  to  the  song  and  pat-pat  of  his  father.  The  other 
faces  shone  with  love  and  pride,  and  white  teeth  flashed  in 
fond  laughter,  but  the  little  man  who  danced  before  God 
was  infinitely  serious.  Not  one  of  our  wide-traveled  audi- 
ence pretended  to  have  seen  a  more  perfect  baby  body  ;  and 
head  and  face  were  in  keeping.  The  stateliness  and  grace 
with  which  this  dimpled  child  stepped  his  measures ;  the 
great  dark  eyes  of  him  ;  the  poise  with  which  he  faced  a 
stranger  audience  and  never  fluttered  an  eyelid  ;  and  that 
wonderful  baby  form — I  think  none  of  us  ever  saw  a  more 
exquisite  picture.  And  all  of  us  who  were  aliens  smiled — 
but  all  were  too  touched  to  laugh. 

The  ladies  slept  well  in  the  governor's  beds,  and  the  men 
camped  upon  whatever  came  handiest  at  Martin's.  There 
was  no  need  to  lock  doors  and  windows,  nor  to  watch 
valises,  cameras,  wraps  or  purchases.  Everything  was  safe 
in  this  Indian  town. 

On  the  morning  of  the  23rd  we  sent  our  properties  down 
the  cliff  by  unchecked  Indians;  and  with  due  leave-takings, 
and  thanks  for  the  hospitality  which  had  so  generously 
entreated  us,  we  descended  by  a  fourth  way — the  impressive 
**  Burro  Trail,"  built  within  a  century,  over  a  massive 
causeway,  and  between  beetling  crags,  up  which  the 
Acomas  bring  their  stock  to  be  herded  at  night  on  the 
mesa-top.  Walking  half  a  mile  around  the  foot  of  the 
Rock,  we  came  to  the  north  end,  where  Zaldivar  made  his 
feint  in  1599.  Here  runs  the  most  terrific  path  to  Acoma 
— "Dead  Man's"  Trail — its  last  fifty  feet  practically  im- 
possible to  whites  (though  one  fool  has  climbed  it  twice 
with  adequate  witnesses),  and  almost  never  used  by  the 
Indians.  Several  Acomas  have  lost  their  lives  on  it,  spat- 
tering down  on  the  rocks  350  feet  below.  But  the  plucky 
women  of  the  party  did  all  the  possible  part  of  it ;  round- 
ing "Cape  Horn,"  and  (which  is  more  difficult)  coming 
down  as  bravely  as  they  went  up.  These  trail  nicknames, 
be  it  understood,  are  my  own  ticketing  for  convenience' 
sake,  and  not  compulsory.  The  Camino  del  Padre  is  the 
only  one  which  has  a  historic  name. 

The  wagons  had  been  brought  around  to  the  foot  of  this 


e  Prlncifaltt  of  Aco 


A    WEEK    OF    WONDERS. 


331 


last  and  most  desperate  trail ;  and  we  rolled  away  to  Cubero 
with  no  more  adventure  than  the  dishing:  of  a  wheel  where- 
by a  priceless  prehistoric  tinaja  in  my  lap  was  smashed  to 
potsherds.     The  drive  is  about  three  and  a  half  hours. 

After  a  grateful  dinner  on  the  cars,  the  special  was  pulled 
back  to  Lagruna,  six  miles  east,  and  sidetracked  there  six 
hours,  while  we  explored  that  picturesque  pueblo  and 
selected  beautiful  tinajas  to  be  shipped  us  by  Don  Simon. 
Laguna  is  the  newest  of  all  the  pueblos,  having  been 
founded  in  1699  by  sundry  refugees  after  Diego  de  Vargas's 
reconquest  of  New  Mexico.  It  lies  on  the  sunward  slope 
of  a  fine  dome  of  rock,  about  400  feet  above  the  little  San 
Jose  creek,  and  half  that  height  above  the  Santa  Fe  rail- 
road which  skirts  its  base.  The  ledge-built,  terraced 
homes  of  these  500  brown  farmers  are  eminently  pictur- 
esque and  interesting.  So  are  their  farming  colonies  along 
the  creek  and  the  big  reservoir  they  have  built.  But  few 
passengers  on  the  transcontinental  jaunt  ever  have  the 
spunk  to  **stop  over"  there  and  look.  There  is  no  hotel, 
of  course ;  and  large  parties,  or  fussy  ones  of  any  size, 
should  not  come  unforeseen.  But  reasonable  arrangements 
could  doubtless  be  made  with  Simon  Bibo  or  Robert  Marmon 
for  a  brief  stop  here  or  for  the  trip  to  Acoma. 

Between  Laguna  (which  we  left  at  8  p.m.,  Oct.  23)  and 
our  next  stop,  is  a  whole  book  of  things  worth  seeing — the 
summer  colonies  of  the  two  Queres  pueblos,  the  tremendous 
lava-flows  which  end  near  McCarty's,  the  beautiful  pre- 
historic ruins  at  CeboUita,  the  nest  of  volcanos  near  Agua 
Fria,  the  fine  forests  and  canons  of  the  Zuni  mountains 
and  San  Mateo,  the  famous  **  Stone  Autograph  Album"  of 
Inscription  Rock,  and  many  another  thing  which  in  the 
Bast  would  be  cause  for  a  score  of  summer  hotels  apiece. 
But  we  were  People  in  a  Hurry,  and  after  only  the  biggest 
game ;  so  our  berths  were  made  down  that  night  on  the 
siding  at  Thoreau  (formerly  Mitchell)  129  miles  west  of 
Albuquerque,  and  close  to  the  top  of  the  Continental 
Divide. 

[to  bk  continued.] 


Some    Freaks    in  Wild  Flowers. 

■r  otonat  r,  lkavihi. 
^rtHlS  comprehensive  title  (chosen  for  brevity)  may  be 
^*j  misleadinETi  for  I  only  intend  to  describe  a  few  of 
those  aberrant  forms  I  have  observed  amon^  our 
wild  flowers,  without  mentioning  the  far  more  numerous 
ones  occurring  under  cultivation. 

One  strange  form  of  "  freak ishness"  is  Albinism,  seem- 
ingly analogous  to  that  in  animals.  The  white  poppy, 
Eschscholtzia,  is  an  instance  of  this,  found  very  rarely  in 
the  fields  but  frequently  seen  in  our  gardens,  having  been 


334  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

there  perpetuated.  I  have  observed  instances  of  Albinism 
in  our  earliest  mariposa  lily,  Calochortus  Catalinae ;  in  the 
"shooting  stars,"  Dodecatheon  ;  and  in  the  tiny  ground 
pink,  Gilia  dianthoides.  These  flowers  are  similar  in  color- 
ing, but  differ  entirely  in  form — belonging,  in  fact,  to  dis- 
tinct orders.  All  are  of  varying  shades  of  pink  or  lavender, 
with  deep  maroon  centers.  In  the  albino  form  the  petals 
are  white,  while  a  pale,  yellowish  green  replaces  the 
maroon.  Albinism  is  found  in  many  species  of  flowers  in 
various  parts  of  the  countr}',  and  I  suppose  throughout  the 
world. 

Under  conditions  peculiarl}*^  favorable  to  growth  (either 
unusually  rich  soil  or  abundant  moisture),  we  find  the  normal 
number  of  petals  multiplied.  Six-petaled  poppies  are  quite 
common,  while  more  rarely  we  find  five,  seven  or  upward, 
even  to  ten,  more  or  less  perfectly  developed.  I  once  found 
in  Eaton's  Canon  a  fine  specimen  of  the  globe  tulip,  Calo- 
chortus albus,  with  four  petals  and  four  sepals,  instead  of 
the  customary  three.  Later  I  found  one  of  the  Catalinae 
mariposas  with  apparently  four  petals,  but  in  this  case  one 
of  the  sepals  took  the  form  of  a  full  fledged  petal,  while 
in  another,  petal  and  sepal  were  joined,  which  greatly  re- 
tarded the  opening  of  the  bud.  Superabundant  nutrition 
also  gives  us  double-headed  shooting  stars.* 

But  the  main  purpose  of  this  article  is  to  describe  a  very 
remarkable  aberration  of  form  occurring  in  the  Catalinae 
mariposa,  especially  interesting,  as  it  may  throw  light  on 
Nature's  methods  in  forming  new  species.  The  illustration 
A  shows  the  Calochortus  Catalinae  found  in  such  numbers 
on  our  hills  during  March  and  April ;  while  in  B  we  have 
an  abnormal  form  of  the  same  flower,  and  in  C  a  represen- 
tion  of  the  Calochortus  albus,  of  our  mountain  cations; 
which  blooms  during  May  and  June.  I  surely  need  not  call 
attention  to  the  startling  resemblance  between  the  deviant 
Catalinae  and  the  allied  but  very  different  species. 

The  Calochortus  Catalinae  grows  on  the  open  hill  slopes, 
more  or  less  in  the  sunshine,  amidst  low  chaparral  or  wild 
oats  and  grasses ;  while  the  Calochortus  Albus  is  mainly 
found  well  up  the  moister,  steep,  northerly  slopes  of  the 

♦  Since  this  was  written  we  have  made  a  trip  to  near  the  San  Fer- 
nando tunnel,  where  we  found  an  unexampled  profusion  of  the  regally 
beautiful  Calochortus  clavatus,  one  of  the  yellow  mariposas.  Among- 
them  was  one  perfectly  developed  four-petaled  blossom,  with  eight 
stamens  instead  of  six,  and  four  stigmas  in  place  of  three.  Another 
one  with  only  three  petals  had  four  stigmas,  while  one  of  the  stamens 
was  either  double  or  cleft.  We  also  found  a  double-headed  bud,  the 
only  one  among  the  thousands  of  mariposas  we  have  gathered.  Un- 
fortunately, it  was  mislaid,  so  we  were  deprived  of  the  pleasure  of 
seeing  it  open. 


SOME    "FREAKS"    IN    WILD    FLOWERS. 


B.    Abebrant  Fohm  of  Calochovtub  CATALI!<«. 

mountain  canons,  beneath  the  live-oaks,  and  entatig^led 
with  maiden-hair  ferns  and  rank  grass,  where  the  sunlight 
sifts  down  through  the  overhanging  foliage  only  a  few 
hours  during  the  day.  The  buds  in  a  bouquet  of  mariposas 
continued  to  unfold  successively  for  a  week  or  more  after 
they  were  picked,  becoming  smaller,  less  developed,  and 
more  and  more  pale  and  waxen.  These  "  freak"  lilies 
were  among  the  last  to  expand,  when  the  vital  force  was  at 
a  low  ebb  and  nearing  extinction.  They  had  been  kept  for 
days  under  artificial  conditions  of  shade  and  moisture, 
crudely  analogous,  perhaps,  so  far  as  results  go,  to  those 
existing  where  the  Albus  makes  its  home. 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


Now  is  it  not  possible  that  during  a  hig-h  wind  the  seeds 
blown  from  some  hilly  slope  or  mesa  lodged  and  germinated 
in  the  moister  soil  of  a  shady  canon,  and  that  the  plant, 
missing  its  accustomed  vitalizing  sunshine,  failed  to  de- 
velop its  full  form  and  stature,  its  flowers  taking  on  the 
pale  hue  of  a  sedentary  life  instead  of  the  ruddy  glow  of 
its  parents"  hearty,  active,  wind-tossed,  sun-kissed  exist- 
ence ;  its  descendants  growing  year  after  year  less  like 
their  progenitor,  until  in  the  course  of  centuries  a  new 
species  was  evolved  ?  Of  course  this  is  purely  symbolic. 
I  don't  mean  to  say  that  one  of  the  forms  here  described  is 
a  lineal  descendant  of  the  other.  The  ancestor  of  the 
Albus  may  be  extinct,  or  it  may  have  been  the  splendens. 


THE    PERIL    OF    THE    SIERRA    MADRE.  337 

which  appears  on  the  sunny  mountain-side  at  the  same  time 
of  year — early  summer.  This  is  immaterial.  There  are 
upwards  of  40  species  or  varieties  of  Calochortus  found  in 
California,  from  the  sea-coast  to  hig-hup  on  the  mountains, 
at  ten  thousand  feet  or  more  elevation,  as  well  as  on  the 
desert.     Miss  Parsons  says  of  the  genus  : 

'*They  have  a  tendency  to  hybridize,  and  the  various 
forms  sport  and  vary,  and  run  into  one  another  in  such  a 
wonderful  manner  that  the  exact  determination  of  all  the 
species  is  an  impossible  task  to  all  but  a  few  experts — and 
even  they  are  not  certain  about  them  all  yet."t  So  we 
here  have  a  generic  characteristic  favorable  to  the  required 
variations. 

This  variability  of  the  Calorchorti  suggested  another 
thought,  and  that  is  that  the  genus  is  a  new  one.  Reckon- 
ing time  by  geologic  periods,  it  has  not  yet  had  time  for 
its  different  species  to  become  distinctly  and  definitely 
separated  from  one  another.  Such  instances  certainly 
seem  to  form  links  in  the  chain  of  reasoning  by  which  the 
evolutionary  origin  of  species  is  proved. 

It  has  so  frequently  been  found  that  the  forms  of  flowers 
serve  some  distinct  purpose  in  the  plant's  economy,  e.g., 
their  fertilization  by  the  visits  of  insects ;  and  this  adapt- 
ation is  so  wonderful  and  so  impressive,  we  are  led  to  for- 
get that  form,  texture  and  color  may  arise  from  extraneous 
conditions  ;  may  be  due  to  increased  or  diminished  vitality 
or  other  causes  not  essential  to  the  existence  of  the  species. 

Pasadena,  Cal. 

The  Peril  of  the  Sierra  Madre. 

BY  T.    P.  LUKKflS. 

^rtHERE  is  critical  danger  of  the  wasting  of  our  beauti- 
^^l  ful  southland.  Our  far-famed  orchards  and  flower- 
gardens  are  certainly  doomed  unless  we  do  some 
vigorous  work,  and  soon,  to  arrest  the  progressive  destruc- 
tion of  our  watershed. 

If  you  think  this  the  sentiment  of  an  alarmist,  go  with 
me  to  the  mountains.  As  we  ascend  the  almost  barren 
slopes,  I  will  show  you  the  remnants  of  once  huge  pines 
and  spruces.  Many  of  the  canons  and  ridges  were  milled 
in  early  times.  The  accumulated  loppings  were  burned 
to  permit  sheep  grazing,  and  the  fire  swept  on  over  vast 
areas  again  and  again,  until  there  are  but  few  of  the  old 
monarchs  left. 


f  Wild  Flowers  of  California,  p.  xli.  See  also  Mr.  Shinn*s  article 
in  Thb  lyAND  OP  Sunshine  for  April,  1901.  Wizards  of  the  Garden, 
p.  279. 


THE    PERIL    OF    THE    SIERRA    MADRE. 


Stand  with  me  on  the  crest  overlooking  the  desert.  See 
how  fast  those  burning  sands  are  encroaching  southward. 
There  are  two  distinct  factors  which  are  causing  this 
condition.  First,  the  denuding  of  the  southern  slopes  of 
the  mountains  has  removed  the  chief  factor  in  condensing 
the  aqueous  vapor  the  southerly  winds  have  gathered  in 
passing  over  the  Pacific;  inasmuch  as  the  tree-covered 
mountain  is  much  cooler  than  the  same  mountain  bared 
of  trees.  Records  of  rainfall  prove  that  the  greatest  pre- 
cipitation on  our  east-and-west  ranges  is  on  the  crest  and 
on  the  north  slope  of  the  first  range,  being  greatest  where 
there  is  the  densest  forest,  decreasing  rapidly  toward  the 
range  nearest  the  desert.     Thus  with  the  south  slope  de- 


ThfE    PERIL    OF    THE    SIERRA    MADRE. 


Mackocarpub  Spkui:e. 

nuded,  the  supply  of  rain  for  the  desert  range  is  materially 
lessened. 

Second — The  repeated  burning,  chiefly  by  sheep  men, 
and  the  excessive  grazing  by  sheep  and  cattle.  In  my  in- 
vestigations last  summer,  I  found  a  most  distressing  and 
alarming  condition.  The  north  fork  of  the  Mojave  River, 
where  forty  years  ago — before  sheep  were  driven  in  the 
mountains — there  flowed  a  large  stream  through  all  seasons, 
and  the  watershed  was  well  covered  with  nut-pines  and 
alders,  it  now  is  bare,  and  the  river-bed  is  dry  in  a  few 
days  after  a  storm.  But  little  better  is  the  south  fork  of 
the  same  river,     "  Holcomb  Creek,"     All  humus  is  gone. 


THE    PERIL    OF    THE  SiERRA    MADRE.  345 

leaTing:  no  mulching:  whatever^  and  many  of  the  trees  ha^e 
been  killed  by  these  causes.  This  was  a  larsre  stream  be- 
fore the  destruction  of  the  forest  £jowth  and  the  herbace- 
ous plants.     Now  it  is  dry  four  months  in  the  year. 

Over  all  the  areas  where  sheep  rangred  continuously, 
there  is  not  one  conifer  less  than  thirty-five  years  old,  ex- 
cept in  dense  thorn  brush  or  roufirh  rocky  places.  The 
sheep  eat  every  one  as  they  pass,  and  trample  every  other 
living:  thing*.  Thanks  to  the  Department  for  excluding 
these  hoofed  locusts  I  But  what  destruction  have  they 
wrought  I  Many  years  of  careful  and  intelligent  work  in 
preventing  fires,  and  in  reforesting,  will  be  required  to  re- 
habilitate the  range. 

It  does  not  necessarily  follow  that  an  area  once  forested 
will  reforest  itself  if  left  alone.  With  the  condition  our 
once  forested  mountains  are  in,  and  the  aridity  increased  so 
greatly  by  the  denudation,  the  matter  will  go  from  bad  to 
worse,  if  man  does  not  take  hold  and  help.  Nature  is  help- 
less where  man  persists  in  destroying  her  machinery.  Aid 
her  a  little  and  she  will  perform  wonders.  First  of  all, 
prevent  fires.  It  is  the  imperative  duty  of  every  citizen  to 
cooperate  with  the  Department  of  the  United  States  Grov- 
ernment  in  the  care  of  our  reserves.  The  system  is  not 
perfect.  But  the  system  of  patrolling  by  the  forest  rangers 
has  done  a  vast  amount  of  good.  While  there  has  been  a 
good  deal  of  area  burned  each  year,  the  rangers  have  put 
out  hundreds  of  small  fires,  that  would  have  burned  well 
nigh  all  our  mountain  covering.  A  good  deal  of  unfavor- 
able comment  has  been  indulged  in  on  the  work  done  by  the 
Interior  Department,  but  it  has  come  from  the  other  fellow 
who  wants  the  job. 

Where  there  are  fifteen  men  patrolling  the  San  Gabriel 
reserve  of  550,000  acres  of  steep  mountains,  there  should 
be  one  hundred  and  fifty  men,  well  equipped.  Then,  with 
a  system  of  trails  and  fire-breaks,  there  would  be  no  more 
big  fires.  Is  it  reasonable  for  us  to  sit  back  and  wait  for 
the  government  to  do  all  ?  If  our  house  is  on  fire,  we  do  not 
wait  for  the  fire  company  to  come,  but  work  to  save,  assisted 
by  other  willing  hands.  If  the  people  of  Southern  California 
will  manifest  an  interest  in  this  all-vital  question  by  doing 
something.  Uncle  Sam  will  do  his  part ;  but  we  must  mani- 
fest an  interest  in  our  own  welfare. 

The  mountains  of  Southern  California,  by  the  nature  of 
their  structure,  and  the  frequent  shakings  they  have  had, 
would  be  the  best  water  conservers  if  well  clothed  with 
trees  to  retard  the  run-off  from  storms  and  permit  percola- 
tion. All  the  water  we  have  for  use  in  the  valleys  first 
falls  on  the  mountains.    If  these  were  well  clothed  there 


346  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

would  be  an  abundance  of  water  for  all  purposes,  and  de- 
structive floods  would  be  a  thing  of  the  past. 

Then,  what  shall  we  do  ?  First  of  all,  prevent  fires 
Not  only  exercise  great  care  yourself  while  in  the  mount- 
ains, but  caution  others  ;  and  when  a  fire  does  start  render 
every  assistance  possible  to  put  it  out.  Laws  inflicting 
ever  so  severe  punishment  for  setting  fires  have  but  little 
effect.  In  the  eleventh  century,  Grermany  passed  a  law, 
and  enforced  it,  that  whoever  set  fire  to  the  forests  should 
be  bound  hand  and  foot  and  drawn  three  times  through  the 
fire.  But  their  forests  were  burned,  until  the  country  was 
well-nigh  ruined.  Agriculture  became  unprofitable,  floods 
and  drought  alternating.  Finally,  a  rational  system  of 
guarding  against  fire,  and  reforesting,  restored  the  original 
conditions,  while  the  forestry  work  is  self-supporting. 

Now  that  sheep  are  excluded  from  the, reserves  of  South- 
ern California,  the  greatest  menace  has  been  removed. 
Nearly  every  fire  now  is  started  by  gross  carelessness. 
Campers  often  build  fires  without  first  clearing  away  all 
light  material.  Again  they  set  fire  to  an  old  log,  and 
when  they  break  camp  the  fire  is  not  thought  of.  High 
winds  spring  up  and  scatter  the  sparks.  Every  fire  should 
be  put  out  with  water.  Covering  with  earth  is  not  safe,  as 
there  is  a  great  deal  of  humus  in  the  soil  which  will  burn 
for  days. 

By  far  the  greater  number  of  fires  are  started  by 
smokers,  who  light  their  pipe  or  cigar  and  throw  the 
match  to  one  side.  If  it  falls  on  a  bed  of  dry  leaves,  and 
there  is  but  a  spark  left,  the  wind  will  soon  fan  it  into  a 
flame.  There  are  many  records  of  this  happening  where 
the  party  is  walking  or  riding,  thus  not  seeing  the  fire 
until  it  has  gone  racing  up  the  slope  of  the  mountain. 

It  is  claimed  that  fires  are  sometimes  caused  by  light- 
ning. While  it  is  true  that  many  trees  are  struck  by  light- 
ning, but  few  are  set  on  fire  ;  and  in  case  they  are,  the  rain 
that  invariably  accompanies  the  storm  extinguishes  the 
fire.  If  we  had  no  other  destroyer  than  the  elements  our 
forests  would  be  all  right.  It  is  man  with  his  ax  and 
match  that  does  the  mischief. 

Plant  the  seed  that  Nature  has  stored  for  us.  See  that 
Pine  tree,  Pinus  Tuberculata  or  Attenuata,  growing  upon 
the  hot  slopes  of  our  mountains.  For  more  than  one  hun- 
dred years  it  has  resisted  fires,  and  stored  its  seed  securely 
all  this  time  for  such  an  emergency.  How  little  trees  have 
bounded  forth  from  the  seed  I  have  liberated  from  their 
well-sealed  home  1  Plant  them  where  nothing  else  will 
grow,  and  they  rejoice  and  spread  their  branches  soon  to 
shade  the  surface  from  the  scorching  sun  and  drying  winds, 


THE   PERIL    OF    THE   SIERRA    MADRE.  347 

while  their  roots  penetrate  every  crevice,  holding*  back  the 
water,  and  giving,  it  up  to  us  in  the  summer. 

Prof.  J.  W.  Tuomey  of  the  Forestry  School  spent  much 
time  in  Southern  California  last  summer,  at  the  head  of 
forestry  investigations.  In  a  recently  published  letter  he 
says: 

'When  in  our  Western  forests,  one  is  constantly  im- 
pressed by  the  change  in  relative  humidity  wrought  where- 
ever  the  forest  has  been  removed.  Springs  have  disap- 
peared and  canons  and  ravines  are  now  dry,  where  there 
were  formerly  perennial  streams.  Under  the  leaf-mold  and 
debris  of  the  forest,  the  soil  is  always  moist,  while  on 
denuded  areas  in  the  same  locality  it  is  parched  and  dry. 
Everywhere  the  deep  mulch  forming  the  floor  of  the  forest 
grasps  the  descending  rains  and  melting  snows  and 
guides  them  into  the  deeper  recesses  of  the  earth.  Where 
the  forests  have  been  destroyed,  or  even  the  mulch  and 
litter  forming  the  forest  floor,  as  it  so  often  is  by  fire  or  the 
excessive  grazing  of  sheep,  the  rains  for  the  most  part,  in- 
stead of  sinking  into  the  soil,  pass  over  the  surfaces,  carry- 
ing silt  and  other  debris  into  the  streams  and  reservoirs, 
causing  vital  injury  to  irrigation  enterprises. 

**So  also  in  the  semi-arid  regions,  where  there  are  no 
forests,  or  where  they  have  been  destroyed,  the  wind  has  a 
free  sweep,  resulting  in  an  enormous  increase  of  evapora- 
tion. In  some  instances  the  evaporation  from  a  water 
surface  exposed  to  the  free  sweep  of  the  wind  reaches  a 
maximum  of  thirteen  inches  in  a  single  month.  In  exposed 
situations,  snows  a  foot  in  depth  are  frequently  lapped  up 
in  a  single  day  without  fairly  moistening  the  soil  beneath. 
We  do  not  appreciate  how  great  the  necessity  for  the 
preservation  of  the  forests  is  to  the  irrigable  West." 

There  is  approximately  three  million  acres  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  forest  reserves  of  Southern  California, 
which  includes  practically  all  our  mountain  area.  The 
average  annual  rainfall  on  our  mountains  is  approximately 
forty-eight  inches.  If  they  were  well  clothed  with  trees, 
at  least  one  half  of  this  would  be  available  for  use  in  the 
valleys  during  the  summer,  which  would  represent  a 
reservoir  of  six  million  acre-feet  capacity. 

The  forest  reserves  are  under  the  care  of  the  Interior 
Department;  and  recently  the  direct  management  of  the 
National  reservations,  so  far  as  it  relates  to  practical  and 
economical  forestry,  has  been  transferred  to  the  Bureau  of 
Forestry.  This  insures  in  the  very  near  future  the 
adoption  of  a  National  forestry  system,  that  will  be  de- 
veloped with  vigor  and  intelligence. 

The  field  for  this  work  is  large,  embracing  as  it  does  an 


34»  LAND   OF   SUNSHIHC. 

ajrea  of  46,800«000  acres  in  forest  reserves  akme.  The  in** 
vestigations  and  study  of  the  forestry  question  have  been 
largely  on  economic  lines,  and  the  relation  of  forestry  to 
the  water  supply.  While  the  former  is  of  great  interest  to 
ally  the  latter  directly  and  vitally  concerns  us.  The  depart- 
ment must  look  after  the  interests  of  all.  If  Southern 
California  were  the  only  region  to  be  considered,  we  would 
soon  have  our  mountains  in  shape.  Now  let  us  work ;  first 
to  do  all  in  our  power  to  prevent  fires.  Organize  fire  com- 
panies in  every  settlement  to  cooperate  with  the  officers  in 
charge  to  fight  fires. 

When  you  go  in  the  mountains  to  camp,  never  leave  camp 
without  extinguishing  all  fire  with  water,  even  though  you 
expect  to  return  in  a  short  time.  Never  build  a  fire  near 
a  steep  bank  or  near  a  tree  or  inflammable  material.  After 
lighting  your  pipe,  never  drop  the  match  until  you  are 
absolutely  certain  that  all  fire  is  extinct.  Some  of  the  most 
destructive  fires  have  started  at  the  base  of  the  mountain 
where  land  was  being  cleared.  No  one  should  ever  burn 
brush  and  loppings,  in  or  at  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
except  in  the  winter  months ;  for  in  the  summer,  fires  will 
start  from  a  mere  spark,  so  dry  does  everything  become. 

But  few  people  realize  the  difficulties  and  danger  of 
fighting  a  fire  in  the  mountains.  When  it  has  once  spread 
out  and  started  up  a  steep  slope,  there  is  nothing  for  man 
to  do  except  to  get  out  <ff  the  way.  Hence  the  great  value 
of  fire-breaks  and  trails,  which  hold  the  fire  in  check  on 
the  ridges,  and  enable  men  to  reach  points  of  vantage 
quickly. 

Twenty  thousand  dollars,  with  what  the  forest  rangers 
could  do,  would  prepare  the  San  Gabriel  reserve  so  that 
fires  would  be  reduced  to  the  minimum. 

Where  fires  have  denuded  our  water-sheds  in  the  past, 
and  as  fast  as  other  areas  are  denuded,  there  should  be 
trees  planted  at  once  before  a  growth  of  grass  and  weeds 
forms  a  mat  of  fire-inviting  material.  A  uniformly  forested 
area  is  not  nearly  so  susceptible  to  fire  as  a  brush  area,  and 
is  a  much  better  water  conserver. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact  with  students  in  forestry  that  the 
temperature  in  dense  shade  under  trees  fifty  feet  or  more  in 
height  is  much  lower  than  under  brush.  Also,  the  soil 
under  trees  holds  a  much  greater  percentage  of  moisture 
than  the  soil  under  brush,  although  the  surfaces  under  each 
are  apparently  equally  shaded.  While  this  is  true,  we 
should  guard  zealously  all  brush-covered  areas ;  but  when 
the  brush  is  burned,  then  the  seeds  of  pine  trees  of  varieties 
indigenous  to  the  locality  should  be  planted  at  once. 


SIERRAN   DAISIES.  *•• 

How  often  have  I  encountered  those  who  say,  when  ap- 
proached to  help  us  in  this  work :  "  I  care  nothing  about  it. 
It  will  not  benefit  me  in  m;  lifetime.  Let  the  next  fenera- 
tion take  care  of  itself."  What  if  our  forefathers  had  heW 
the  same  sentiment?  What  condition  would  we  be  in? 
Let  us  do  something  for  future  generations ;  and  in  this 
case  we  will  be  richly  rewarded  during  our  own. 
».c»i,  

The  Fall  Plowing. 


Across  the  fallow  fields  of  Space, 
God  speeds  the  storm  plow's  furrow  ; 

The  rain-seed  scattcrclh  He  apace 
And  guides  the  wild-goose  harrow. 


SIERRAN  Daisies, 


YE  who  rend  the  earth  apart 

For  hidden  veins  of  yellow  gold, 
And  pierce  her  ancient-seething  heart, 
For  ages  past  grown  still  and  cold — 

Come  out  of  all  your  tunnels  black. 

Throw  down  your  futile  picks  and  drills, 

For  here  above,  the  wealth  you  lack. 
In  lavish  splendor  gilds  the  hills. 

Did  God  himself  stoop  down  to  say. 
You  golden,  thronging  daisies  bright. 

Just  where  the  hidden  treasure  lay 

That  you  have  found  and  brought  to  light  ? 

What  need  to  tear  the  mountain  side  ? 

What  use  of  toil  and  sweat  ?— Behold, 
An  El  Dorado  glorified, 

A  solid  hill  of  yellow  gold  I 


350 

A  Guadalupe  Wooing. 


«< 


^^UNDREDS  of  pilgrims  toiled  along  the  dusty  highway  leading 

J^^^     from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  the  sacred  village  of  Guadalupe. 

@r  X     'IThe  aristocracy  of  the  road  journeyed  in  heavy  carts,  each 

drawn  by  a  pathetically  small  and  discouraged  donkey,  while 

a  few  others  were  so  fortunate  as  to  have  a  burro  with  baskets  for 

the  children. 

A  small  peon  in  white  cotton  blouse  and  trousers,  red  sash  and  big 
sombrero,  who  was  trudging  along  bravely  in  spite  of  a  slight  limp, 
was  overtaken  by  a  buxom  woman  of  his  own  class,  taller,  broader 
and  older  than  himself. 

'*  Adios,  amigo,^*  she  said,  this  being  the  usual  salutation  of  the 
road. 
*'  Adios i  amiga,'*  he  responded,  somewhat  shyly. 
"  Do  you  travel  alone  ?  " 
My  little  grandmother  has  gone  on  ahead  in  a  friend's  cart,"  he 
answered  with  pardonable  pride  in  revealing  such  intimate  relations 
with  the  aristocracy. 

"It  is  very  fine  to  ride  in  a  cart."    Her  subtle  flattery  of  manner 
made  him  feel  as  important  as  though  he  owned  a  dozen  carts. 
**  What  might  be  your  worship's  name  ?  "  she  continued. 
**  I  am  Pablo,  and  your  servant.    What  is  your  own  gracious 
name  ?  " 

Juana,  at  your  service.    Do  you  live  in  Mexico,  Pablo  ?  ** 
I  am  portero  in  the  house  of  Don  Pancho  Nufiez,  and  I  take 
pleasure  in  placing  at  your  orders  the  little  room  under  the  stairs 
where  I  live  with  my  grandmother." 

They  jogged  on  together  amiably  for  some  time,  more  and  more 
pleased  with  each  other,  more  and  more  personal  and  confidential  in 
their  intercourse. 

"  Pablo,  what  favor  are  you  going  to  ask  this  year  of  our  gracious 
Lrady  of  Guadalupe  7  " 

Pablo  sheepishly  drew  a  milagro  from  his  bosom,  a  tiny 
figure  of  a  kneeling  woman. 

"  I  am  going  to  pray  fervently  for  a  wife.  My  grandmother  is  too 
old  to  make  the  tortillas^  and,  moreover,  she  scolds  me  all  the  time 
she  is  awake.  If  she  only  had  a  daughter-in-law,  I  would  be  left  in 
peace  at  least  half  the  day,  which  would  be  a  great  blessing.  Tell 
me,  Juana,  the  desire  of  thy  heart." 

The  woman  untied  a  knot  in  her  blue  rebozo  and  produced  a  little 
silver  man. 

"I  am  going  to  pray  for  a  husband,"  she  confessed  ;  "  but  if  your 
grandmother  hadn't  such  a  violent  disposition — " 

"  The  saints  forbid  that  I  should  speak  any  evil  of  my  grand- 
mother, who  is  a  worthy  woman  and  means  well." 
"  Then,"  she  said  doubtfully,  "  perhaps  it  might  be  arranged." 
Something  in  the  patient  limp  and  drooping  shoulders  appealed  to 
sturdy  Juana,  and  Pablo,  looking  up,  caught  an  expression  of  pro- 
tecting, half-maternal  tenderness  which  caused  him  to  break  forth 
impulsively : 
"  I  swear,  Juana,  that  I  love  thee  with  all  my  soul." 
"  Muy  bien^  Pablo,"  she  answered  calmly,  with  a  friendly  arm 
about  his  shoulders,  your  grandmother  may  atmse  me  all  she  likes 
— that  is  the  respect  due  to  the  old — but  if  she  abuses  you,  there  wil 
t^  war  between  us." 
"  Juana  tnia^  you  are  an  angel." 

"No,  Pablo,  you  do  me  too  much  honor.  See,  there  comes  the 
electric  car." 


A    GUADALUPE    WOOING,  351 

"  How  can  it  go  so  fast  without  even  one  little  burro  to  pull  it  ?  " 

"  They  say  it  is  that  stick  on  top." 

**  But  what  holds  up  the  stick  ?  " 

"  They  say  it  is  the  devil.  If  I  put  up  my  hand,  Pablo,  the  car 
would  stop." 

'*  But  why  should  you  want  it  to  stop  ?  " 

"  Tou  little  stupid  1  Why  should  we  plow  the  dust  with  our  weary 
feet  when  we  might  ride  ?  " 

"  What  is  the  cost  ?  " 

"  Nine  cents  apiece." 
.    '<  Eighteen  cents  is  a  large  sum  of  money,  Juana,  and  would  buy 
much  pulque  and  many  cigarettes.    Besides,  you  say  it  is  of  the 
devil." 

"  I  will  pay  it,  Pablo." 

'*  Well,  my  life,  I  doubt  if  it  will  stop  for  your  little  hand,  but  you 
may  try." 

"What  joy  I  It  was  like  flying,"  remarked  Pablo  complacently,  as 
they  climbed  down  from  the  car  in  front  of  the  church  at  Guadalupe. 
Near  by«  a  little  old  woman,  whose  beady  black  eyes  twinkled  out 
from  a  mass  of  wrinkles,  was  being  lifted  from  a  cart,  when  she  per- 
ceived her  grandson,  who  dutifully"  hastened  to  her  side,  followed  by 
Juana. 

"Ingrate  I "  she  screamed,  **  you  send  your  poor  old  grandmother 
jolting  over  the  rough  road  in  a  cart  and  you  ride  like  a  lord  in  the 
electric  car." 

"I  paid  for  him,"  interposed  Juana  stoutly. 

*'Does  that  make  it  any  better?  What  right  had  you  to  pay  for 
him  ?    You  pig  I    You  shameless  one  !    You  yard  of  red  tape !  " 

" Grandmother,"  ventured  Pablo,  timidly,  "this  is  the  woman 
whom  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  has  given  me  for  a  wife,  but  (he 
quailed  before  the  lightning  in  the  old  woman's  eyes)  of  course  she 
needn't  stay  if  you  don*t  like  her." 

Stung  by  such  base  desertion  and  too  proud  to  let  the  others  see  her 
tears,  Juana  turned  and  marched  away.  Pablo  would  have  followed 
her,  but  his  grandmother's  skinny  arm  held  him  back. 

It  was  the  eve  of  Guadalupe  Day.  The  village  was  thronged 
with  pilgrims,  the  stately  towers  and  domes  of  the  great  church 
stood  up  dark  and  majestic  against  the  starry  sky  ;  hundreds  of  the 
faithful  had  spread  their  zarapes  in  the  stone-paved  churchyard  and 
were  sleeping  huddled  together  for  warmth. 

A  solitary  woman  carrying  a  pine  torch  made  her  way  with  diffi- 
culty among  the  sleepers.  It  was  Juana.*  Her  inflamed  eyelids  be- 
trayed the  recent  storm,  but  her  features  had  settled  back  to  their 
usual  stolid  calm.  Love  had  triumphed  over  anger  and  disillusion. 
A  cracked  idol  is  better  than  no  idol  at  all,  so  she  was  seeking  her 
recreant  lover. 

Pablo,  aroused  by  the  light  of  the  torch  in  his  face,  beheld  his 
true  love  bending  over  him  like  a  vengeful  Amazon.  "  Come,"  she 
said.  He  glanced  uneasily  at  his  grandmother,  but  she  slept  peace- 
fully. He  rose  and  followed  Juana,  muttering  incoherent  apologies 
mingled  with  vows  of  undying  affection,  but  she  made  no  response 
until  they  had  left  the  churchyard  and  climbed  some  distance  up  the 
steep  village  street. 

**  Here  we  can  talk  in  secret,"  she  said,  as  she  took  out  a  key, 
opened  a  heavy  door,  and  conducted  Pablo  through  a  large,  empty 
room  into  a  smaller  one  at  the  back.  Here  she  thrust  the  torch  into 
the  dirt  floor. 

"  Pablo,  I  want  you  to  wait  here  until  I  bring  your  grandmother  to 
terms  and  then  I  will  come  for  you." 


3W  LAND  OF  SUNSHINE. 

Her  c«inpaiiioii  did  not  look  pleased  at  thia  propoattion. 

"She  wilt  think  I  am  dead,"  he  anawered,  edging  wnewaily  toward 
the  door. 

Jttana  planted  herself  firmly  in  the  doorway, 

"  And  when  she  finda  it  out,  she  will  be  very  angry,"  be  continued 
weakly.  He  next  tried  to  crowd  past  Juana,  bnt  finding  this  Impoa- 
■ible,  he  threw  himself  snlkily  on  the  floor  by  the  torch,  with  his 
back  to  her. 

"  There  ii  no  other  way,  Pablo.  It  will  be  of  no  nse  for  you  to 
call  out,  as  the  walla  are  thick,  and  I  have  rented  these  rooms  for  as 
many  days  aa  I  please,  so  no  one  will  come."  A  full  minute  she 
stood  contemplating  Pablo  in  gloomy  silence,  torn  by  conflicting 
emotions ;  love  and  scorn,  contempt,  and  the  yearning  tendemcM  a 
mother  feels  for  a  naughty  child  she  has  to  punish,  all  atrnggling  for 
mastery.  She  turned  away,  and  Pablo  heard  her  latch  the  inner 
door  aad  turn  the  key  in  the  outer  one. 

The  next  morning  a  wildly  excited  old  crone  stormed  up  and  down 
among  the  crowd  seeking  her  grandson  and  the  strange  woman  with 
whom  she  connected  his  disappearance,  cursing  them  by  every  saint 
in  the  calendar.     When  she  discovered  Juana  sitting  alone   by  the 

Elaza  fountain,  she  seemed  all  at  once  to  shrivel  up  still  smaller  and 
er  voice  sank  to  a  pitiful  quaver. 

"  Where  is  he  7    Where  is  my  Pablito  7  " 

"  How  should  I  know  ?  "  answered  the  younger  woman  indiffer- 
ently.    "  You  took  him  away  from  me." 

"Oh,  my  poor  boy  I  My  dear  boy,  always  so  good  to  his  old  grand- 
mother!    Where  iBhe7"  she  wailed. 

"He  said  yesterday,"  remarked  Juana  carelessly,  "that  if  yon 
would  not  allow  him  to  m&rry  me,  he  was  going  to  hide  and  starve 
himself  to  death." 

"  Oh,  my  angel  grandchild  1  May  the  Virgin  of  Guadalupe  for- 
give me  for  a  wicked  old  woman  !  Even  now  he  is  dying  of  hunger  1 
Find  him,  woman,  and  he  is  yours.  You  have  my  blessing  I  Only 
find  him  quickly  1  Go !  "  she  cried,  wring-ing  her  hands.  Juana 
darted  away  and  was  soon  lost  In  the  crowd. 

The  church  was  filled  to  the  doors  with  kneeling  devotees  holding 
lighted  candles.  Clouds  of  incense  rolled  up  from  the  altar,  half 
obscuring  the  fair  face  and  gracious  figure  of  the  Virgin  of  Guada- 
lupe, that  famous  Virgin  who  appeared,  painted  in  supernatural 
t>eauly,  on  the  blanket  of  a  pious  Indian  nearly  three  centuries  ngo. 

This  morning  her  glance  seemed  to  fall  benignantly  on  an  insig- 
nificant little  lame  peon  in  the  front  row,  who  knelt  between  two 
women,  each  of  whom  clasped  one  of  his  hands.  The  grandmother 
surveyed  him  anxiously  lest  even  the  bountiful  breakfast  which  she 
and  Juana  had  provided  might  fail  to  save  him  from  starvation, 
while  the  younger  woman  leaned  towards  him  with  an  expression  of 
utter  adoration,  showing  that,  after  the  manner  of  womankind,  she 
had  persuaded  herself  that  he  was  everything  her  heart  could  wish. 
B,  Csi. 


A  Navajo  Initiation. 

lY  work*,  not  without  value,  have  b«en  cominted 
1  limited  anbjects  from  the  conatantlj  growing 
teratnre  of    ethaolo^,    and    there    are    manj 
rlters  seehinf;  subjects  in  this  field.    To  such,  I 
ould  recommend  the  comparative  study  of  rites 
'.  initiation.   To  my  knowledffe,  no  general  work 
1  this  subject  has  ever  been  written.    This  is 
1  age  of  secret  societies.    Never,  perhaps,  in 
le  history  of  oar  race,  have  these  organizations 
xn  more  numerous  or  stronger  in  membership, 
he  advance  of  civilisation  seems  rather  to  In- 
-eane  than  diminish  them.     What  was  their  ori- 
in  and  development  7    What  is  their  tendency  7 
With   regard   to   such   initiation  rites,   aad  to 
other  initiatiocs  wLich  are  not  secret,  it  is  generally  thought  that 
the  severities  were  greater  in  the  early  days  than  they  are  now,  that 
they  have  gradually  become  milder  and  more  symbolic ;  but  I  donbt 
if  this  is  a  uniform  rule.     I  have  among  my  scraps  a  number  of  re- 
cent cases  in  which  members  of  secret  societies,   regarding  lightly 
the  sanctity  of  their  oaths,  have  sued  in  open  court  for  damages  re- 
ceived in  some   rude  initiation.     From  this  we   may  conclude  that 
even  in  this  day  among  civilised  people,  some  rites  have  elements  of 
severity. 

No  more  painful  ideal  of  initiation  has  ever  existed  than  that  of 
the  Mandan  i5keep9,  seen  by  Catlin  in  1832  and  descritied  by  him  in 
his  works.  So  terrible  was  his  description  that  many  doubted  its 
truth,  yet  since  his  day  others  have  witnessed  the  6keep3  and  testi- 
fied to  the  correctness  of  his  account.  I  number  myself  among  the 
corroborating  witnesses ;  I  saw  the  work  of  the  lust  day  at  the  cere- 
mony in  1870.  We  have  accounts  of  other  Indian  initiations  almost 
if  not  quite  as  cruel  as  that  of  the  dkeepS. 

But  among  the  Navajos  of  New  Mexico,  a  tribe  not  further  ad- 
vanced in  civilization  than  the  Mandans,  and  not  less  inclined  to  war, 
I  have  witnessed  an  initiatory  rite  in  which  only  a  semblance  of  pun* 
ishment  was  enacted  and  no  real  pain  inflicted.  Furthermore,  I  have 
never  witnessed,  or  heard  of,  a  more  severe  ordeal  except  in  elements 
of  fast  and  vigil  practiced  by  the  Navajos. 

The  rite  I  am  about  to  describe  occurs  during  a  great  nine-days' 
ceremony  called  KlMze  Hatkl,  or  the  Night  Chant.  This  is  really  a 
healing  ceremony.  It  is  celebrated  primarily  for  the  cure  of  a  rich 
invalid,  who  pays  the  heavy  expenses  ;  but  the  occasion  is  devoted 
to  other  purposes  also,  to  prayers  for  the  t>enefit  of  the  people  at 
large,  and  among  other  things,  to  the  initiation  of  youths  and  maid- 
ens, and  sometimes  people  of  maturer  years,  into  the  secret  of  the 
Yibitsai. 

I  have  several  times  witnessed  this  initiation  and  have  m3'self  anb- 
mitted  to  it,  in  order  to  obtain  certain  privileges  which  pertain  to  it. 
Bo  I  shall  speak  of  it,  not  as  I  saw  it  on  one  occasion,  but  as  I  saw  It 
on  many  occasions,  and  I  shall  add  some  information  derived  from 
the  medicine  men  who  direct  it. 

On  the  fifth  night  of  the  Night  Chant,  an  hour  or  two  after  sun- 
set, "the  basket  is  turned  dovm,"  as  the  Navajos  express  it;  in 
other  words,  a  basket  is  inverted  to  serve  as  a  drum ;  this  is  done 
with  many  mystic  observances.  A  crier  at  the  door  of  the  big  medi- 
cine lodge  cnes,  "  Bilsi  hatili  hakd  1 "  "  Come  on  the  trail  of  song ;" 
,t  later  the  singers  begin  to  sing,  and  the  drummer  to  pound 


354  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

on  his  basket-drum.  At  the  same  time  the  two  men  who  are  to  enact 
the  part  of  y^i  or  divine  ones  at  the  ceremony,  begin  to  dress,  adorn 
and  paint  themselves.  At  last  they  put  on  their  masks.  WhUe  they 
are  dressing  an  assistant  prepares  the  two  y^dadestsani,  or  imple- 
ments used  in  the  initiation  of  the  females.  A  buffalo-robe  is 
spread  on  a  blanket  west  of  the  fire,  and,  after  a  special  aeries  of  ten 
songs  have  been  sung,  the  divine  masqueraders  leave  the  lodge. 

These  two  implements  for  initiating  the  females  consist  each  of  an 
ear  of  yellow  corn,  which  must  be  tipped  with  four  grains  arranged 
compactly  together.    To  the  ear,  four  branchlets  of  yucca  are  tied. 

After  the  masqueraders  (y^i  let  us  call  them)  are  gone,  the  singing 
stops  and  there  is  an  expectant  silence  in  the  lodge.  The  y6i  have 
gone  to  conduct  or  drive  t)efore  them,  rather,  the  candidates  to  the 
lodge.  Soon  the  procession  enters — the  patient  first,  a  number  of  can- 
didates for  initiation  following,  and  the  y^i  bringing  up  the  rear. 

The  divinities  represented  on  this  occasion  are  Hasts^yalti,  or  the 
Talking  God,  and  Hasts^baad  or  Y^baad,  a  goddess.  Hasts^yalti  is 
also  called  Y^bitsai,  or  maternal  grandfather  of  the  gods  or  genii. 
The  person  who  enacts  the  goddess  is  a  man,  but  feminine  pronouns 
will  be  used  in  speaking  of  him.  When  these  gods  now  enter  the 
lodge,  Hasts^yalti  carries  in  his  hands  two  large  leaves  of  yucca 
baccata,  while  Hasts^baad  carries  a  spotted  fawnskin  containing 
pollen. 

On  entering,  the  patient  sits  in  the  south  of  the  lodge;  the  candi- 
dates sit  west  of  the  central  fire  and  buffalo  robe,  facing  the  east  in 
a  curved  row.  The  males  sit  in  a  squatting  position  in  the  north  ; 
the  females  sit  to  the  south  with  lower  limbs  extended  toward  the 
east ;  the  mothers  sit  south  of  the  girls.  The  candidates  enter  the 
lodge  with  their  heads  bowed  and  faces  hidden  in  the  folds  of  their 
blankets,  and  they  remain  thus  after  sitting  until  they  are  otherwise 
bidden.  The  males  disrobe  under  their  screening  blankets,  taking 
off  everything  but  their  breech-cloths.  Meanwhile  the  y^i  keep  up 
an  occasional  hooting  and  stand  facing  the  group  of  candidates. 
When  the  males  are  all  ready  the  y^i  stand  facing  that  one  who  sits 
farthest  north.  The  goddess  whoops  as  a  signal.  The  candidate 
throws  off  his  blanket,  rises  and  takes  one  step  forward.  The  god- 
dess applies  meal  transversely  to  the  shins  of  the  candidate  from 
south  to  north.  The  Talking  God  advances  and  strikes  the  candidate 
in  the  same  place  with  a  yucca  leaf.  He  carries  a  leaf  in  each  hand ; 
he  strikes  with  one  leaf,  holding  its  point  to  the  north  ;  changes  the 
leaves  in  his  hand  and  strikes  with  the  other  leaf,  holding  the  point 
to  the  south.  The  goddess  then  applies  meal  from  below  upward  to 
the  right  side  of  the  chest  and  to  the  left  side,  from  nipple  to  collar 
bone,  in  the  order  mentioned.  The  god  foUows,  striking  in  the  same 
places  and  in  the  same  order,  once  on  each  side,  with  his  yucca  leaf 
held  upright,  and  changing,  as  before,  the  leaves  from  hand  to  hand 
between  strokes.  The  candidate  turns  sunwise  around  with  his  back 
to  the  y6i,  is  sprinkled  with  meal  and  struck  on  the  shoulder  blades 
in  a  manner  similar  to  that  in  which  he  was  struck  on  the  breast. 
He  turns  round  again,  facing  the  y^i,  and  extends  his  forearms, 
hands  clinched,  palm  side  up.  Meal  is  applied  transversely  across 
the  forearms  from  south  to  north  and  from  north  to  south, 
and  they  are  struck  with  the  yucca  leaves,  pointing  alternately  in 
these  directions  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  in  which  the  shins  were 
treated.  The  Y^baad  or  goddess  always  applies  the  meal  and  Hast- 
s^yalti,  the  Talking  God,  always  applies  the  yucca  wands  and  always 
changes  them  in  his  hands  between  the  strokes. 

The  candidate  returns  to  his  place  in  the  line,  sits  down,  bows  his 
head  and  covers  it  with  his  blanket.  The  youth  sitting  next  him  in 
the  south  then  rises,  and  submits  himself  to  similar  operations  at 


A    NAVAJO   INITIATION.  355 

the  hands  of  the  y&,  and  so  on,  down  the  line  until  all  the  males 
have  been  powdered  and  flagellated. 

As  the  leaf  of  this  yucca,  which  is  often  called  Spanish  bayonet, 
is  two  feet  or  more  in  length,  very  stout  and  very  much  like  a  large 
bayonet  in  size  and  shape,  it  mi^ht  be  supposed  that  the  stroke  is 
painful ;  but  I  did  not  find  it  so  in  my  own  case,  and  I  have  ques- 
tioned Indians  who  were  initiated  at  a  tender  age  and  have  been 
told  that  they  did  not  suffer  from  the  stroke.  The  punishment  is 
symbolic  only. 

The  females  are  not  compelled  to  rise  while  the  y^i  are  operating 
on  them,  nor  to  remove  any  of  their  clothing  except  that  portion  of 
the  blanket  which  covers  the  head  and  shoulders.  Neither  are  they 
flagellated,  but  they  must  still  keep  their  heads  bowed.  Instead  of 
yucca  wands,  the  implements  of  com  and  spruce,  called  y^dadestsani, 
are  used  and  merely  pressed  against  their  persons.  The  parts  of  the 
females,  alternately  sprinkled  with  meal  and  pressed  with  the  imple- 
ments are  the  following,  in  the  order  mentioned :  The  soles  of  the 
feet,  the  palms  and  forearms  (which  lie  extended  on  the  thighs),  the 
upper  parts  of  the  chest,  to  the  collar  bones,  the  scapular  regions, 
the  top  of  the  head  on  t)oth  sides  of  the  parting  of  the  hair.  The 
T^baad  sprinkles  the  meal  from  below  upward — for  example,  on  the 
feet  she  sprinkles  from  heel  to  toe — ^and  always  first  on  the  south  or 
right  side  of  the  body  and  then  on  the  north  side.  Hasts^yalti 
presses  his  implements  simultaneously  on  both  sides,  and  between 
applications,  while  his  companion  applies  the  meal,  he  changes  the 
implements  in  his  hands.  Throughout  the  work,  on  all  the  candi- 
dates, each  y^i  gives  his  own  peculiar  cry  with  the  performance  of 
each  act.  Bach  candidate  covers  his  (or  her)  head  with  his  blanket 
when  the  y^i  are  done  with  him. 

The  difference  between  the  treatment  of  the  male  and  the  female 
candidates  in  this  rite  is  worthy  of  consideration  in  view  of  the  wide 
spread  opinion  that  the  savage  has  no  consideration  or  respect  for 
his  females. 

Now,  while  the  candidates  are  all  seated  again  in  a  row,  with  heads 
bowed  and  faces  covered,  the  y^i  take  off  their  masks  and  lay  them 
side  by  side  on  the  buffalo  robe,  faces  up,  and  tops  to  the  east.  The 
female  mask,  that  of  Hasts^baad,  lies  south  of  the  male  mask,  that 
of  Hasts^yalti.  The  men  who  personated  the  gods  then  stand  with 
uncovered  faces  turned  toward  the  row  of  candidates.  The  latter 
are  bidden  to  throw  back  their  blankets  and  look  up.  They  do  so, 
and  the  secret  of  the  Y^bitsai  is  revealed. 

And  the  secret  of  the  Y^bitsai  is  this :  The  y^i  are  the  bugaboos  of 
the  Navajo  children.  These  Indians  rarely  inflict  corporal  punish- 
ment on  the  young,  but  instead  threaten  them  with  the  vengeance  of 
these  masked  characters,  if  they  are  unruly.  Up  to  the  time  of  their 
initiation  they  are  taught  to  believe,  and,  in  most  cases,  probably  do 
believe,  that  the  y^i  are  genuine  abnormal  creatures  whose  function 
it  is  to  chastise  bad  children.  When  the  children  are  old  enough  to 
understand  the  value  of  obedience  without  resort  to  threats  they  are 
allowed  to  undergo  this  initiation  and  learn  that  the  dreaded  y^  is 
only  some  intimate  friend  or  relation  in  disguise.  After  this  initia- 
tion they  are  privileged  to  enter  the  medicine  lodge  during  the  per- 
formance of  a  rite. 

Some  Navajos  neglect  this  initiation  until  they  have  reached 
mature  years,  and  though  it  is,  of  course,  well  known  that  they  no 
longer  believe  in  the  bugbear,  they  are  not  admitted  into  the  lodges 
while  esoteric  work  is  in  progress.  On  the  other  hand  they  are  not 
anxious  to  intrude  themselves,  for  the  oldest  among  the  tril)e  profess 
to  believe  that  if  they  were  to  witness  the  secret  ceremonies  without 
having  been  duly  initiated  they  would  sooner  or  later  be  stricken 


^356  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

blind,  or  would  catch  the  disease  which  is  being'  driven  oat  of  the 
patient. 

To  attain  the  hig-hest  priviliges  in  these  rites  one  mnst  go  through 
this  ceremony  four  times — twice  at  night  and  twice  in  the  day.  I 
have  seen  many  adult  men  and  women,  and  some  even  past  middle 
life,  going  through  their  second,  third  or  fourth  ordeals.  It  is  not 
until  one  has  submitted  himself  for  the  fourth  time  to  the  flagella- 
tion that  he  is  permitted  to  wear  the  masks  and  personate  the  gods. 

The  next  part  of  the  ceremony  is  the  application  of  the  mask.  He 
who  masquerades  as  a  goddess,  takes  the  female  mask  and  applies  it 
in  turn  to  the  face  of  each  of  the  candidates — proceeding  along  the 
row  from  north  to  south — and  adjusts  the  mask  carefully  to  the  face 
so  that  the  candidate  can  look  out  through  the  eye-holes  and  under- 
stand fully  the  mechanism  of  the  mask.  The  mask  is  then  laid  in 
its  former  position,  south  of  the  other  mask  on  the  bufiblo-robe. 
The  actor  takes  good  care  that  the  eyes  of  the  candidate  are  seen 
clearly  through  the  eye-holes  in  the  mask.  If  they  are  not,  it  is 
thought,  blindness  would  result. 

The  next  part  of  the  performance  is  the  act  of  sprinkling,  or  sacri- 
ficing to,  the  masks.  Each  candidate,  in  turn,  beginning  as  usual  in 
the  north,  rises  and  walks  to  the  east  of  the  recumbent  masks,  pass- 
ing'by  way  of  the  west  and  north.  Standing  facing  the  west  he  lor 
she)  takes  a  pinch  of  pollen  from  the  fawn-skin  bag,  which  now  lies 
west  of  the  masks  in  charge  of  an  assistant.  He  sprinkles  it  in  a 
line  downwards  on  each  mask  from  the  tip  of  the  forehead  to  the 
mouth,  then  upwards  on  the  right  cheek  or  margin,  and  lastly  up- 
wards on  the  left  (south)  cheek  or  margin.  He  powders  first  the 
mask  of  Hasts^yalti  in  the  north  and  then  that  of  Hasts^baad  in  the 
south.  Any  pollen  that  may  adhere  to  his  fingers  is  brushed  off 
so  that  it  may  fall  on  the  mask  (but  not  on  the  eye-holes,  for  this 
would  endanger  the  sight  of  the  devotee.)  This  done,  he  returns  to 
his  seat  and  resumes  his  clothing.  When  the  candidates  have 
finished  sprinkling,  others  in  the  lodge  may  follow  their  example. 
E^ch  person  should  pray  in  silence  for  what  he  most  desires  while 
sprinkling.  Great  care  is  observed  in  sprinkling  the  masks,  for  this 
part  of  the  ceremony  is  of  the  gravest  import.  Before  they  begin, 
the  children  are  told  carefully  how  to  proceed,  and  the  younger  ones 
have  their  hand  guided  by  the  actors.  If  one  sprinkles  upwards  on 
the  nose  of  the  mask  it  is  supposed  that  the  act  may  hinder  the  fall 
of  rain  and  occasion  drought ;  if  he  sprinkles  downwards  on  the 
divine  cheeks,  the  act  may  injure  the  growth  of  crops  and  even 
the  growth  of  the  sprinkler  himself. 
The  last  act  is  the  fumigation.  Hot  coals,  taken  directly  from  the  fire, 
are  placed  at  intervals  in  front  of  the  line  of  candidates  ;  around  these 
coals  they  gather  in  groups  of  three  or  four.  The  powder  called 
y&dedinil  is  sprinkled  on  the  coals,  and  the  dense  odorous  fumes 
arising  therefrom  are  inhaled  by  the  candidates  for  a  few  seconds. 
This  completes  the  initiation.  They  now  sit  around  the  lodge 
wherever  it  suits  their  convenience  and  listen  to  the  songs  of  se- 
quence, which,  beginning  while  the  candidates  were  sacrificing  to 
the  masks,  continue  for  about  fifteen  minutes  after  the  services  are 
completed.  The  last  two  of  the  atsd'lei  songs  and  the  song  for  turn* 
ing  up  the  basket  are  sung.  Then  '*  the  basket  is  turned  up  "  and 
put  in  the  west  edge  of  the  lodge,  and  the  work  of  the  night  is  done. 

Usually  the  night  initiation  is  conducted  only  on  the  fifth  night  of 
the  Cl^  johatdl,  but  on  one  occasion  I  have  seen  candidates  admitted 
also  on  the  sixth  night.  The  next  repetition  of  the  rite  occurs  out  of 
doors  and  in  the  day  time. 

Washittfftoa,  D.  C 


EARLY    WESTERN    HISTORY.  357 

VER  DADERA 

RELACION.  DE  LA  GRAN* 

DIGS  A  CONVBRSiON  Q>  E  H  A    A  VIDO   LN  EL 

NbcvoMcxko   EmbudapofclPadrcFiayEilevaodcPcica.CulliMfio 

deluPi««iociudcl  Nucvo  Mexico.af  muy  Revcfcado  P.Ft  Fraiuifco 

de  Apodaca ,  ComifTaho  Ccneial  dc  toda  la  Nueva  Efpana ,  de  la 

OrdrndeS.Fiancifco.daDdoiccuo()ta  ddeftado  dea(]uclla> 

«6vcirioae»,}r  en  paniculat  dc  lo  fucedido  cd  cI  dafpacho 

que  le  hizo  paia  aqucllai  parte  i. 

5  C*«  *»WM  Jtl  Seii»  '?f(nif»  ,y  Jflfintr  ^aU(  Don  ^^H*^*  4t  Brfaiw- 
Jmfrtfft  tn  St^dU^nt  Ltr/t  kfinpiAdiittH  Is  CtUt  itUt  T^mM-Aho  it\6\x. 


I  Alicroa  dcflaCiud«ddeM»ieo,aqaano(le 

!Seiiciiibredci<i|.ano),doccroldado*,(lieiy 
DucvcSacetdot«i,y  do(L'cgoi,Rc)igiofoid« 
&.FraDcirco,ei]  compinia  dclP.fr.  Ellcvact  de 
Pcrca  CuHodio,  embiadotdcla  Rcligiofifii- 
isaProviticia  del^ntoEvargelip,(oo  Ult- 
molfna.yrxptnradcruMageftad,  quccoCa- 
tholico  pc(ho,ricdoru  Ceptrocomo  elCadii- 
§  ceo  d<  Mcicurio,vaia  vigilante  lachonada  de 
_^__,  ^  _  lon  dcQat  toBvciriooei ,  en  cuya  dcrenra  galla  ta 

mayor  paitedt  ruiRral((h3berei:vaiaalfinde1a  paz,y|uftici>. 

Con  lot  j»  rcfeiiJoi  Rcligiofos  fucro  otroi  aucve  a  cofladc  la  dicha 
Pro«fntia,rndoicon  gallardoalicnio,  y  efpiritu  difpucllo  a  todo  tiancc 
de  trBba)oi,y  pthg'oi,oprobrio>,y  arretat,  pat  dar  a  tonoce^  ptedkado 
e)  nonib'e  de  IcritC^rillo  Con  tu'Jaalcgna,y  contormidadicsininaio 
halla  *\  Vallc  dc  ^  Bayiholoine,(!n  ofteceife  cofa  particular  Aqui  fa  le- 
frefro  la  genie  (Oalgunoi  alivioi  para  el  dclavio  con  q  11cgaron:y  no  lo 
file  pcqurno  en  rfla  oc<fi6,huyifc  dc  la  nanada  tictrtamulat  alai  ye- 
guai  ciminonaitqtonmuchatdiUgcnciatqrehi/icrcajnoparecicton 
las  qumif  h<\u>  per  frr  la  vUima  poblacio, y  neccriirai dc  bafliinentai 
para  i}0  l«gua»  de  dcrpoblado.q  reila  bafla  el  pnmer  pueblo  del  nucva 

Mexico. 


358 

Early  Western  History. 

From  Documents  Never  Before  Published  in  English. 

PEREA*S  REPORT  ON  NEW  MEXICO  IN  1632-3. 

igMHE  "Truthful  Report"  of  Fray  Estevan  de  Perea,  for  the  first 
sS^l  ^  time  accurately  translated  below,  is  a  sequel  to  the  precious 
X  **  Memorial"  of  Fray  Alonso  de  Benavides,  of  which  a  critical 
translation,  with  voluminous  notes,  was  printed  in  this  maga- 
sine  in  the  six  numbers  from  October,  1900,  to  March,  1901,  inclusive. 
Perea  succeeded  Benavides  as  Father  Custodian  of  the  Missions  of 
New  Mexico ;  and  this  rare  document  advances  by  nearly  three  years 
our  knowledge  of  affairs  in  this  important  period  of  the  early  history 
of  New  Mexico.  Father  Perea  had  a  very  different  style  from  that 
of  his  predecessor ;  and  was,  at  the  time  of  this  writing,  much  less 
familiar  with  the  country.  But  he  was  animated  by  the  same  heroic 
seal ;  and  his  report  is  of  serious  importance  to  the  student  of  the 
Southwest.  It  should  be  taken,  of  course,  in  conjunction  with  the 
translation  and  annotation  of  Benavides,  and  will  be  included  in 
the  sumptuous  edition  of  the  Memorial  now  in  press  under  direction 
of  the  editor. 

TRUTHFUL 

REPORT   or   THE  MAGNI- 

FICENT     CONVERSION     WHICH      HAS     BEEN      HAD     IN 

New  Mexico.     Sent   by  the    Father   Fray    Estevan   de    Perea,    Custodian 

of  the  Provinces  of  New  Mexico,  to  the  very  Reverend  Father  Fray  Francisco 

de  Apodaca,  Commissary-General    of   all    New    Spain;    of   the 

Order  of  St.  Ftancis,  giving  him  an  account  of  the  state  of  those 

conversions,  and,  In  particular,  of  what  has  happened  In  the  Expedition 

which  was  made  to  those  regions. 

Y  With  permission  o/ths  SeHor  Vicar-  General^  and  of  ike  SeMor  Alcalde  Don  Alonso  tie  Bolafkos. 
Printed  in  Seville,  by  Luys  EstupiHan^  in  the  Street  of  the  Palms.    Tear  of  ibsa. 

There  sallied  from  this  City  of  Mexico,  on  the  4th  of  September 
of  the  year  1628,  twelve  soldiers,  nineteen  Priests  and  two  Lay- 
Brothers,  Relig-ious  of  [the  order  of]  St.  Francis,  in  company  with 
the  Father  Fray  Estevan  de  Perea,  Custodian.  [They  were]  sent 
from  the  Most  Religious  Provincia  of  the  Holy  Bvangel,  with  the 
alms  and  at  the  expense  of  His  Majesty,  who,  with  Catholic  zeal 
[doth  this] ;  his  Sceptre  being*  like  the  Caduceus  of  Mercury,  a  vigilant 
rod  garnished  with  eyes,  for  the  conservation  of  these  conversions, 
in  whose  defense  he  expends  the  greater  part  of  his  Royal  incomes  ; 
a  rod,  in  fine,  of  peace  and  justice. 

With  the  Religious  already  mentioned  went  nine  others  at  the  cost 
of  the  said  Provincia;  all  with  exalted  courage  and  spirit  ready  for 
every  hazard  of  hardships,  perils,  opprobium  and  affronts,  to  make 
known  by  preaching  the  name  of  Jesus  Christ.  With  all  gladness 
and  concord  they  traveled  unto  the  Valley  of  San  Bartholom^,  with- 
out any  particular  thing  occurring.  Here  the  people  were  refreshed 
with  certain  comforts  for  the  want  in  which  they  arrived.    And  it 


EARLY    WESTERN    HISTORY.  359 

was  no  small  thing  that  on  this  occasion  30  mules  fled  from  the  drove 
to  the  wild  mares;  and  despite  many  efforts  that  were  made,  15  of 
them  did  not  appear  [again].  Here — since  it  was  the  last  settlement, 
and  there  was  necessity  of  provisions  for  150  leagues  of  wilderness 
[despobladd\  which  remain  [from  there]  up  to  the  first  pueblo  of  New 
Mexico — the  necessary  stores  [mataloiaje]  were  provided,  with  four 
oz-wagons,  to  relieve  the  32  [wagons]  of  His  Majesty,  which  went 
very  loaded.  As  little  did  anything  of  novelty  occur  in  this  stretch 
of  road,  until  the  full-running  [caudaloso]  Rio  del  Norte — ^at  which 
Pole  [i.  e,t  the  North]  it  has  its  birth.  They  reconnoitered  the 
country  on  Palm  Saturday,  7th  of  April  of  1629.  They  were  well 
received  by  the  natives  and  succored  with  some  refreshments,  of 
fishes  and  other  things  of  the  country ;  to  whom  they  gave,  in 
exchange,  meat  and  Maize.  They  gave  there  a  three  days'  rest  to 
the  beasts,  which  had  arrived  very  fatigued,  by  reason  of  not  having 
drank  in  as  many  more  [}'.  e.,  in  three  days] :  Because  the  season  was 
of  a  drouth,  and  the  country  sandy  and  sterile. 

From  here  they  went  to  a  place,  up  the  river,  which  they  call  de 
Robledo.  And  one  day's  journey  before  [reaching  Robledo],  the 
Father  Fray  Martin  Gonzalez,  Preacher,  died;  a  son  of  the  Monastery 
of  St.  Francis,  of  Mexico ;  whose  death  was  as  much  lamented  by 
all  as  envied  for  his  much  virtue  and  Religion.  They  arrived  at  the 
town  [villa]  of  Santa  F^,  where  all  went  to  the  Monastery  to  give 
hanks  to  God,  Eulogies  and  praise  to  the  Seraphic  Father  St. 
Francis  for  such  recognized  favors  as  on  the  long  journey  they  had 
received  through  his  petitions;  their  devout  love  making  up  for  the 
lack  of  votive  offerings  and  donative  services.  The  Fathers  cele- 
brated their  Chapter ;  since,  when  they  arrived,  it  was  Easter  of  the 
Holy  Ghost.  And  having  consummated  the  election,  the  Religious 
were  apportioned  to  the  pueblos  and  colonies  of  their  administration, 
in  the  great  pueblos  of  the  Humanas,  and  in  those  called  Pyros  and 
Tompiros — which,  since  there  was  not  a  supply  of  Ministers,  had  not 
been  baptised.  The  Alms  of  His  Majesty  were  apportioned  among 
these  Missions  and  Doctrinal  Schools  [Doclrinas]  with  that  which 
appertained  to  each  one.  And  for  the  said  conversions  [were  alloted] 
the  Fathers  Fray  Antonio  de  Arteaga,  Preacher;  Fray  Francisco  de 
la  Concepcion ;  Fray  Thomis  de  San  Diego,  Reader  of  Theology ; 
Fray  Francisco  I/etrado.  Fray  Diego  de  la  Fuente,  Fray  Francisco  de 
Azebedo — Priests — [and]  Fray  Garcia  de  San  Francisco  and  Fray 
Diego  de  San  lyucas,  I^ay  Religious.  The  Indians  received  them  with 
glad  rejoicings;  and  preaching  to  them  through  the  interpreters  they 
carried,  they  instructed  and  catechized  them  in  the  mysteries  of  our 
holy  Faith ;  those  Gentiles  begging  for  the  sacrosanct  water  of 
Baptism  [and]  thirsting  for  it,  wherein  is  seen  how  God  giveth 
unto  the  soul  to  know  through  the  Baptismal  absolution. 

To  the  nation  of  the  Apaches  of  Quinia  and  Manases,  went  the 
Father  Fray  Bartholom6  Romero,  Reader  of  Theology,  and  Fray 
Francisco  Munoz,  Preacher.  And  since  it  was  the  first  expedition 
into  that  bellicose  and  warrior  Nation,  Don  Francisco  de  Sylva,* 

^Governor  Francisco  Mannel  de  Sllva  Nieto.  Very  little  is  known  of  him.  He  was 
governor  of  N.  Mex.  in  1629,  but  when  his  term  t>eiran  and  when  it  ended  we  are  not 
aware.  Even  his  name  has  been  t>Oirsled,  and  even  Bancroft  does  not  set  it  rig-ht— 
evidently  befnar  nnaware  of  the  two  beautifnl  inscriptions  carved  on  El  Morro  or 
Inscription  Rock  by  the  governor's  expedition  to  Znni  mentioned  below  by  Fray 
Est^van.  A  facsimile  of  one  of  them  was  prints  in  this  maffazinp  for  Auflrnst, 
1896,  p.  103;  and  both  are  given  in  my  Strang*  Comers  of  Our  Country  {The  Centnry 
Co.,  N.  Y.)  pp.  177,  lis.    They  read,  translated: 

**  Here  passed  the  Grovernor  Don  Francisco  Mannel  de  Silva  Nieto,  who  has  al- 
ready subjected  the  impossible  by  his  indomitable  Arm  and  his  Valor,  with  the 
wagons  of  the  Kingonr  Lord;  a  thlnff  which  he  alone  Brought  to  this  Outcome. 
Anffnflt9,  [One  Thousand]  Six  Hundred  and  Twenty  and  Nine.  That  ....  to 
Cnni  I  passed  and  carried  the  Faith.**  [that  is  conducted  the  missionaries.] 

'*  The  Most  Illustrious  Sir  and  Captain-General  of  the  provinces  of  New  Mexico, 


360  LAND°OF   SUNSHtNE. 

Govemor  of  these  Proylnces,  went  along  escorting'  them  with  twenty 
soldiers.  Although  this  precaution  was  not  necessary,  because  on 
their  part  [the  Apaches]  there  lacked  resistance,  and  the  pleasure 
with  which  they  begged  for  the  Holy  Baptism  was  more  than 
enough. 

The  Grovemor  having  returned  to  Headquarters  [El  Reaf\,  the 
journey  to  the  Crag  of  Acoma  was  arranged,  and  that  to  the  Prov- 
inces of  Zuni  [Zufii]  and  Moqui,  with  ten  wagons  and  400  cavalry 
horses  [caballos  de  armas],  with  everything  important  for  the  voyage, 
30  soldiers  well  armed,  and  much  better  in  spirit  and  fervor;  the 
Father  Roque  de  Figueredo,  Fray  Francisco  de  Porras,  Fray  Andres 
Gutierres,  Fray  Augustin  de  Cuellar,  Priests;  Fray  Francisco  de 
San  Buenaventura  and  Fray  Christoval  de  la  Conoepcion,  Lay  Re- 
ligious. These  were  accompanied  by  the  Father  Custodian  and  his 
companion,  and  the  Father  Solicitor  Fray  Thomis  Manso.  This 
journey  was  begun  on  the  23rd  of  June  of  the  same  year.  They 
arrived  at  Acoma,  which  is  distant  36  leagues  from  the  villa  [Santa 
V€\  and  Main  Camp  [Real\  of  the  Spaniards,  its  direction  [being]  to 
the  West.  Their  apprehensions  assured  a  good  reception  by  the 
Indians  of  the  Crag  [Indios  PeHoles] ,  who  spontaneously  proffered 
admission.  For  by  force  or  industry  it  seems  impossible  to  be  able 
to  enter  t>ecause  of  the  inexpugnable  situation,  since  it  is  a  cliff  high 
as  Mount  Amar  in  Abasia,  or  as  the  insuperable  steep  which  Alex- 
ander won  from  the  Scythians.  In  this  stronghold,  to  reclaim  it  to 
the  Faith,  remained  the  Father  Fray  Juan  Ramirez,  Priest,  at  the 
recognized  peril  of  his  life — though  his  was  already  disposed  and 
offered  unto  God — among  those  Barbarians  so  valiant  who  in  other 
occasions  fought  so  well  that  the  Spaniards  experienced,  to  their 
damage,  the  valor  of  their  opponents.* 

In  quest  of  the  Province  of  Zuni  [Zu&i],  of  which  they  already 
had  news,  they  went  traveling  against  the  West.  They  passed  a 
Mai  Pais  ["  BsLd  Lands,"  lava  flow]  of  ten  leagues  of  burnt  cliffs, 
since  by  ancient  tradition  it  is  said  that  there  burst  out,  there,  a  great 
inundation  of  firef — as  we  know  of  some  volcanoes  of  the  Indies,  Piru, 
Guatemala  and  Mexico.  Thev  arrived  at  the  Province  of  Zuni, 
distant  from  the  villa  [Santa  Fe]  56  leagues ;  and  its  natives,  having 
tendered  their  ^:ood  will  and  their  arms,  received  them  with  festive 
applause — a  thing  never  [before]  heard  of  in  those  regions,  that  so 
intractable  and  various  nations  with  equal  spirit  and  semblance 
should  receive  the  Frailes  of  St.  Francis,  as  if  a  great  while  ago  they 
had  communicated  with  them.  From  the  which  it  is  gathered  as 
evident  that  Grod  hath  already  disposed  this  viaeyard  for  these 
laborers  alone.  At  once  the  Governor  issued  an  edict  that  no  soldier 
should  enter  a  house  of  the  Pueblo,  nor  transgress  in  aggrieving  the 
Indians,  under  the  penalty  of  his  life;  it  being  settled  that  with 

for  the  Klnsr  our  Lord,  xmssed  by  here  on  the  return  from  the  pnebloa  of  ZnSi  on  the 
29th  of  Jnly  of  the  year  1629.  And  he  pat  them  [the  pueblos]  at  peace  at  their  re- 
qnest,  they  askinff  his  favor  as  rassals  of  His  Majesty.  And  anew  they  gare  their 
obedience.  All  of  which  he  did  with  the  persnasiveness,  zeal  and  prndence,  like 
snch  a  most  Christian,  snch  a  careful  and  gallant  soldier  of  tireless  and  [erased] 
memory.    .    .    .*' 

These  dates  Indicate  either  an  error  in  one  of  them,  or  that  two  expeditions  were 
made  to  Zuni  in  such  quick  succession  that  one  must  have  been  from  some  point  at 
least  as  near  as  Acoma. 

*  For  Fray  Ramires  and  the  storming*  of  Acoma,  see  T^  Spanish  Piotutrs  (A.  C. 
McClurg-  A  Co.,  Chicago),  p.  125.  Acoma  and  the  path  by  which  the  missionary 
flrst  climbed  to  the  town  are  illustrated  in  the  openior  article  of  this  number. 

t  The  famous  lava  flows  of  the  CeboUIta  Valley  ;  see  Stramr*  Comtrt  of  Our 
Country^  p.  183.  Perea  is  perhaps  first  to  mention  the  Acoma  lesend  of  the  **  Ano 
de  la  Lumbre'*  or  Year  of  Fire.  The  Indians  claim  that  the  eruptions  were  wit- 
nessed by  their  ancestors,  and  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  the  lesend.  The  latest 
flows  are  ffeoloffically  recent. 


EARLY    WESTERN   HISTORY.  361 

suavity  and  mildness  an  obstinate  mind  can  better  be  reclaimed  than 
with  violence  and  rigor.  This  country  is  placid  and  fertile,  abundant 
in  waters,  agreeable  with  green  fields,  shady  with  groves  of  Ilexes 
[£nctnos]y  Pines  [Pinabetos],  Pinon  trees  and  wild  grape  vines.  All 
those  [Indians]  of  this  Colony  are  very  observant  of  superstitious 
idolatry.  They  have  their  Temples  with  idols  of  stone  and  of  wood, 
much  painted,  where  they  cannot  enter,  except  it  be  their  Priests — 
and  these  by  some  trap  doors  which  they  have  on  top  of  the  terrace. 
So  likewise  they  have  gods  in  the  mountains  [or  woods ;  monUs], 
in  the  rivers,  in  the  harvests,  and  in  their  houses — as  is  recounted  of 
the  Egyptians — ^for  they  give  to  each  one  its  particular  protection. 
Here  they  [the  Spaniards]  saw  a  notable  thing;  and  it  was  some 
enclosures  of  wood,  and  in  them  many  Rattlesnakes  that,  vibrating 
their  tongues,  giving  hisses  and  leaps,  are  menacing  as  the  fierce 
Bull  in  the  arena.  And  [our  men]  desiring  to  know  the  object  of 
having  these  serpents  imprisoned,  they  told  them  that  with  their 
venom  they  poisoned  their  arrows,  wherewith  the  wounds  their 
opponents  received  were  irremediable.  They  live  with  civilized 
[politico']  government ;  their  pueblos  with  streets  and  continuous 
houses  like  those  of  Spain.  The  women  dress  themselves  in  Cotton, 
and  the  men  in  buckskins  and  hides.  The  country  abounds  in  maize, 
beans  and  squashes,  with  every  kind  of  hunting  and  other  chase. 
And  to  give  that  people  to  understand  the  veneration  due  to  the 
Priests,  all  the  times  that  they  arrived  where Ithese  were,  the  Governor 
and  the  soldiers  kissed  their  feet,  falling  upon  their  knees,  cautioning 
the  Indians  that  they  should  do  the  same.  As  they  did ;  for  as  much 
as  this  the  example  of  the  superiors  can  do. 

A  house  was  bought  for  lodging  of  the  Religious,  and  at  once  was 
the  first  Church  of  that  Province,  where  the  next  day  was  celebrated 
the  first  mass.  And  hoisting  the  triumphal  Standard  of  the  Cross, 
possession  was  taken,  as  well  in  the  name  of  the  Roman  See  as  in  that 
of  the  Imperial  [throne]  of  Spain.  To  the  first  fruits  of  which  there 
succeeded,  on  the  ^lart  of  the  soldiers,  a  clamorous  rejoicing,  with 
salvo  of  arquebuses ;  and,  in  the  afternoon,  skirmishings  and  cara- 
coling^ of  the  horses.  And  because  the  presence  of  the  Governor 
was  already  more  necessary  in  the  Headquarters  of  the  villa  [Santa 
F^]  than  in  that  place,  he  arranged  to  return,  with  the  Father 
Custodian  and  his  companions.  The  Father  Fray  Roque  de  Figueredo 
pleaded  exceedingly  to  remain  there  to  convert  those  Gentiles.  [He 
is]  well  known  in  this  Kingdom  for  his  much  prudence,  virtue  and 
letters ;  endowed  with  so  many  graces,  and  the  principal  and  most 
necessary  [ones]  to  administer  and  teach  these  Indians  in  the  Divine 
worship,  as  they  [now]  are.  For  he  is  eminent  in  the  Ecclesiastical 
chant,  counterpoint  and  plain ;  dextrous  with  the  instruments  of  the 
Chorus,  organ,  bassoon  and  comet;  practiced  in  preaching  many  years 
in  the  Mexican  [Aztec]  tongue  and  in  Matalzinga :  of  clear  under- 
standing and  quick  to  learn  whatsoever  difficult  tongue.  Him — while 
he  was  Definidor  of  the  Province  of  the  Holy  Evangel,  and  a  person 
that  all  that  [Province]  looked  upon  with  especial  love  and  respect — 
G^  disposed  and  fashioned  with  labors  for  this  conversion  ( a  style 
He  observes  with  His  servants).  As  unto  St.  Paul,  whom  with 
violent  calling  he  prepared  for  Preacher  to  the  peoples.  The  which 
proves  well  the  words  that  Christ  our  Lord  said  of  St.  Paul,*  that  He 
had  shown  him  the  much  that  it  availed  to  suffer  for  His  holy  name. 
The  Governor  took  his  leave  with  the  regret  due  a  company  so  Re- 
ligious and  holy.  With  the  Father  Fray  Roque  remained  Fray  Au- 
g^stin  de  Cuellar,  Priest,  and  Fray  Francisco  de  la  Madre  de  Dios, 
Lay  Religious,  and  three  soldiers.  The  Father  Fray  Roque  convoked 

*So  mns  the  text— a  i>alpable  reTersal.    Paul  tised  such  expressions  many  times— 
e.  ff.,  Philippians,  3,  8 ;  II  Tim.,  2. 12. 


362  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

the  Indiana  of  the  pueblo — the  gfrefttest  was  called  Zibola,  [and  was] 
the  head  town  of  the  rest — and,  by  the  interpreters  be  carried,  guve 
the  Indians  lo  understand  the  cause  of  his  coming',  which  was  to  free 
them  from  the  miserable  slavery  of  the  demon  and  from  the  obscure 
darknesses  of  their  idolatry ;  and  to  make  them  dwellers  of  yonder 
great  House  (so  they  call  the  Sky),  giving  them  to  understand  the 
coming  of  the  Son  of  God  to  the  world.  The  which  they  heard  with 
much  attention,  since  they  were  knowing  people  and  of  good  dis- 
course ;  beginning  at  once  to  serve  the  Religious  by  Ininging  them 
water,  wood  and  what  was  necessary.  In  this  prosperous  condition 
the  affairs  of  Zuni  were  going  ;  whose  progress  shall  be  treated  soon 
in  their  place  and  occasion. 

^Because  this  report  is  very  long  and  will  not  go  on  one  sheet,  Uiat 
been  divided  into  two;  and  so  the  second  part,  very  copious,  will  come 
out  presently  after  this  one. 


As  these  pages  go  to  press,  the  president  and  architects  of  the 
Landmarks  Club  are  in  Pala  to  arrange  for  the  repairs  necessary  to 
the  ^servation  of  that  picturesque  chapel,  an  asislencia  of  the 
Mission  San  t>ais  Rey.  Work  is  expected  to  begin  at  once,  that  the 
bnilding  may  be  protected  against  the   heavier  rains  of  the  winter. 

At  Capistrano,  under  the  careful  supervision  of  Mr.  Richard 
Egan,  the  Club  is  replacing  the  tile  roof  over  the  refectory.  It  was 
leaking  so  badly  as  to  endanger  the  walls. 

There  is  urgent  need  of  more  money  to  carry  on  these  under- 
takings ;  and  the  Clnb  urges  all  good  Americans  to  assist.  Member- 
ship is  si  per  year  ;  larger  donations  are  welcome  in  proportion. 

deviously  acknowledged,  $4,363;  new  donations,  Prest.  David 
Starr  Jordan,  Stanford  University,  Cal.,  (5  ;  Si  each,  Chas.  Dwight 
Willard,  Mrs.  Chas.  Dwight  Willard,  Los  Angeles  ;  J.  D.  Sweeney, 
Tehama,  Cal.  ;  Miss  Stella  M.  Stiles,  Miss  Lids  Lennon,  Chico,  Cal, 


Life  is  of  the  little  thingrs.    Our  big  events  we     not 
come  along  to,  and  leave  behind ;  but  in  and  of —  *"^°\'^vm 

and  too  often  for — the  trifles,  we  have  our  being. 
It  is  curious  how  that  little   modest  creature  Man,  who 
alludes  to  himself  as  Lord  of  Creation,  is  really  become 
the  slave  of  the  littlest  things  in  it. 

For  instance,  if  between  now  and  tomorrow  every  match 
and  match  factory  were  swept  from  off  the  earth,  civiliza- 
tion would  stand  still.  No  savage  would  suffer,  but  the 
Spoiled  Man,  who  thinks  he  is  Smart,  is  so  subject  to  the 
easy  little  sticks  that  without  them  he  would  be  helpless  to 
create  that  marvelous  element  upon  which  every  detail  of 
comfort  and  progress  now  depends.  He  would  shiver  and 
curse  and  go  hungry,  and  maybe  cry,  until  some  rude  per- 
son saved  his  life.     Lord  of  CreationI 

We  boast  our  big  inventions  as  though  they  <vere     thh  mothsr 
really  basic.     But  the  greatest  invention  ever  made  '^'"'^''^b  au 

by  man — an  invention  as  much  more  profound  and 
vital  than  the  locomotive  or  printing  press  or  telegraph  as 
they  are  more  important  than  a  curling  iron — was  made 
by  that  unnamed,  unwashed,  unstitched  savage  who  first 
rapped  two  accidental  stones  together ;  and  saw  a  spark  ; 
and  made  more  sparks  ;  and  observed  one  that  fell  on  dry 
leaves,  and  grew  with  the  wind,  and  blossomed  into  the 
Red  Flower— and  "  felt  good"  on  a  cold  day,  and  bit  if  he 
touched  it.  He  was  the  greatest  benefactor  of  Man.  A 
patent  has  never  been  issued  since  on  which  his  heirs  and 
assigns  would  not  have  an  equitable  claim  for  a  royalty. 
Without  him  there  would  not  be  a  Home  on  earth  ;  nor  an 
art,  nor  a  trade  ;  nor  transit,  nor  Letters,  nor  governments 
— nor  even  National  Federations  of  Women's  Clubs.  We 
should  still  be  naked,  blue,  unthatched,  carnivorous 
savages,  as  he  was. 

Now  the  same  sort  of  man  that  invented  Fire     ™s  ijfk 
has  never  lost  the  power  of  it     He  can  still  con-  ™  ^'^g^-jj 

jure  the  Red  Flower  at  will — the  most  beautiful  and  ' 

the  most  useful  thing  in  all  the  living  world.    And  even 


364  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

in  contact  with  his  Spoiled  Brethren,  while  he  uses  the 
easy-sticks  to  ligrht  his  cigarette,  he  will  not  kindle  with 
them  the  birth-fire  of  his  baby,  but  goes  to  the  sacred 
hearth  for  the  Cacique's  coals.  Within  a  year  or  so  it  has 
happened  to  me  to  hear  perhaps  fifty  different  men,  now 
ponderable  in  our  social  fabric,  relate  how,  in  their  hopeful 
youth,  they  tried  to  make  fire  by  ''rubbing  two  sticks 
together,"  as  they  had  read  that  the  Indians  did.  But  the 
Indians  knew  how  to  rub  I  And  I  have  known  some  of 
these  same  men — who  handle  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
their  fellows,  and  hundreds  of  millions  of  their  fellows' 
money — ^go  all  day  long  aching  for  a  smoke,  or  all  night 
shivering  in  camp,  because  no  one  had  a  match  !  So  sub- 
servient are  we  become  to  a  sorry  little  splinter  with  a 
grain  of  amorphous  phosphorus  on  the  tip ! 

NOT  And    yet    the    world   moved,  and  men  lived  and 

so  VERY  ^^  loved  and  made  bad  history,  and  women  raised  bis- 
cuits and  babies,  and  nations  came  up  and  went 
down  before  these  petty  tyrants  rose  over  us.  Matches 
were  not  from  everlasting  unto  everlasting.  They  are  not 
a  century  old.  It  was  only  in  1805  that  fire  began  to  be 
made  by  chemistry — all  you  needed,  after  Prof.  Chancel  of 
Paris,  was  a  bottle  of  asbestos  saturated  in  sulphuric 
acid,  and  some  pine  splints  dipped  in  sulphur  and  tipped 
with  chlorate  of  potash  and  sugar.  Friction  matches  date 
only  from  1827,  when  Walker  began  making  his  "Con- 
greves" — a  shilling  for  a  box  of  84  with  a  piece  of  sand- 
paper to  scratch  them  on.  The  modern  match,  with  its 
safer  form  of  phosphorus,  came  along  in  1845. 

My  father,  born  in  1825,  was  telling  me  a  few  months 
ago  how  he  had  to  light  the  fire  in  Maryland.  They  had 
the  old  tinder-box — a  round  tin  holding  a  charred  linen 
cloth  and  with  a  tight  cover  to  smother  the  linen  again. 
Into  this  tinder  he  struck  sparks  with  the  flint  and  steel ; 
and  when  it  "bit"  he  touched  to  it  a  cedar  splint  he  had 
split  and  tipped  with  sulphur.  That  is  the  way  we  built 
the  morning  fire,  within  the  memory  of  one  still  useful 
American.  How  many  breakfast  fires  would  be  lighted 
tomorrow  if  tonight  every  other  facility  were  removed  and 
beside  each  stove  were  placed  the  tinder-box  and  flint  and 
steel  and  sulphur  dips  ? 

AW,  THR  Now  no  one  is  fool  enough  to  deny  that  a  match 

CAN      ^^  ^  convenience  ;  or  that  we  ought  to  get  all  the 

good  we  can  out  of  conveniences.     But  the  greatest 

convenience  in  the  world  is  to  be  independent;  and  the 

structural  trouble  with  our  "modern  conveniences"  is  that 

they  tend  to  become  our  modern  masters.     They  are  so 


GOOD 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN.  365 

many  and  so  seductive  that  instead  of  serving:  us  they 
rule  us.  We  cannot  get  along  without  them — and  that  is 
servitude.  The  Lion  uses  matches — ^half  a  gross  or  so  a 
day — but  despises  them  and  is  not  subject  to  them.  In  his 
humble  opinion,  the  most  perfect  and  the  most  companion- 
able fire-making:  tool  ever  invented  is  the  flint-and-steel- 
and-tinder;  and  its  best  form  the  Spanish- American 
mechero — a  round  wick  tinder  in  a  self-smotheringf  tube. 
Under  ordinary  conditions  it  lig^hts  as  quickly  as  a  match 
— and  in  winds  where  any  match  is  futile.  Any  smoker, 
particularly,  has  found,  if  he  travels  much,  how  fugfitive 
is  the  alleged  convenient  match.  A  valise  full  might  do 
for  a  week's  travel.  Or  there  are  people  who  would  just 
as  soon  beg:  matches  from  strang:ers.  But  one  mecha  is 
g:ood  for  a  trunk-full  of  matches,  and  is  as  easily  replaced 
as  one  match — maybe. 

Chancing:  to  run  out  of  tinder  wick,  this  summer,     IiOoking 
amid  a  penance  in  the  Kast,  the  Lion  went  to  buy      |  ^^\ight. 

a  new  one.  He  verified  the  metropolis  of  Chicag:o 
— ^every  big:  cig:ar  house,  every  department  store,  every 
store  alleg:ed  to  sell  supplies  for  hunters  and  travelers.  All 
in  vain.  A  few  elderly  men  remembered — on  being  shown 
— having  seen  such  things ;  a  few  old  men  brightened  and 
recalled  that  they  used  to  use  them.  But  in  all  the  Quick- 
est City  in  America  there  wasn't  a  tinder.  So  the  Lion 
had  to  get  a  child's  skipping  rope  in  a  department  store, 
and  a  fathom  of  cotton  torching  from  a  ship  chandler ;  and 
pull  out  the  worthless  hempen  core  of  the  skip-rope,  and 
pull  a  strand  of  the  cotton  into  that  estimable  jacket. 
And  not  three  months  later,  in  the  wilderness,  several  of 
those  who  had  laughed  at  his  quest  were  glad  to  ask  him 
to  '*  light  that  red  snake  "  when  their  safety-matches  were 
useless  as  snowballs  in  the  Place  Other  Fellows  Go  To. 

Perhaps  this  seems  a  trivial  text  from  which  to     mkn 
make  a  preachment.     Not  so.     Nothing  is  a  trifle  ^^^meSurk 

which  takes  the  Juice  out  of  Men.  When  a  man 
cannot  command  the  most  intimate  necessity  of  his  kind 
without  a  nurse's  assistance  from  the  Diamond  Match  Co., 
it  is  time  for  him  to  take  a  look  at  himself.  It  is  fine  to 
be  a  leader  of  men ;  but  it  is  even  better  to  be  competent 
unto  one's  self.  Por  the  Lion's  part,  if  he  couldn't  make 
fire  without  begging  pardon  of  a  Match  Trust,  he  would 
take  a  day  off,  borrow  the  wherewithal  from  some  anti- 
quary or  some  Mexican,  and  learn  to  be — in  one  thing,  at 
least — as  self-suflGLcing  as  the  dullest  Indian  is.  We  all 
love  Mastery — and  with  reason.  But  it  is  a  futile  thing 
unless,  like  charity,  it  begins  at  home.    The  man  who  can 


366  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

sway  men,  and  be  invited  to  pay  $25  for  a  horsehair  por- 
trait of  himself  in  every  National  Biography^  but  who 
would  freeze  to  death  unless  he  had  a  box  of  parlor  matches 
to  take  care  of  him — well,  if  he  will  stop  to  think,  per- 
haps he  will  perceive  that  this  is  rather  small  timber  for 
the  foundation  of  the  bigness  he  seems  to  have. 

JtJST  The  Lion  doesn't  commend  anyone  to  live  with- 

^^pRAcncB      ^^^  matches  ;  nor  to  walk  always  when  there  is  an 

electric  car  handy  ;  nor  to  get  down  from  the  shoul- 
ders of  the  Past  and  try  to  live  the  world  over  from  its 
foundation  in  one  lifetime.  But  he  does  believe  very  seri- 
ously that  the  man  (or  woman)  who  depends  too  much  on 
the  easy  circumstance  of  today,  and  lets  the  Man-Muscle 
atrophy  for  want  of  use,  and  becomes  helpless  and  abused 
if  robbed  for  a  day  of  crutches  our  own  grandparents 
didn't  dream  of  as  necessary  to  enable  them  to  Stand  Up — 
makes  the  worst  bargain  a  human  being  can  make.  And 
in  a  programme  of  life  now  unfortunately  rather  unusual, 
he  has  seen  what  he  takes  to  be  solid  proof  of  this  belief. 
He  has  seen  so  many  of  the  flower  of  our  civilization  in 
little  venturings  away  from  their  urban  Nurse,  and  seen 
them  so  helpless  physically  and  so  betrayed  mentally — un- 
able to  see  straight  the  biggest  things  God  ever  did,  be- 
cause there  were  no  streets.  He  has  seen — and  lately — a 
very  few  city  people  whose  heads  were  higher  than  their 
stomachs;  who  could  endure  gladly  what  was  'discom- 
fort "  compared  to  the  Waldorf-Astoria,  (but  would  have 
been  luxury  to  their  own  grandfathers)  for  the  sake  of 
such  intellectual  thrill.  But  he  has  seen  some  of  '^  the 
loveliest  people  that  ever  were" — at  home — so  lost  in  a 
child's  camping-trip  that  he  had  to  say:  **Grentlemen,  if 
my  wife  were  such  a  baby,  I'd  spank  her,  So  Help  Me  1 " 

*iMR  There  is  neither  exaggeration  nor  sensationalism 

^  ^OTR  «YBs      ^^  **^-  Lukens's  ''  The  Peril  of  the  Sierra  Madre," 

printed  upon  another  page.  It  is  a  sober  and  ex- 
pert statement,  by  a  man  of  that  rarest  of  types — a  really 
Good  Citizen.  We  snuflSe  the  phrase  to  mean  almost  any- 
one who  refrains  from  arson  and  perjury ;  we  underline  it 
for  the  man  who  hands  out  a  double-eagle  to  the  canvass- 
ing committee  or  shines  in  Good  Government  mass-meet- 
ings. But  there  should  be  some  special  term  for  the  man 
who  devotes  himself  to  serving  the  commonwealth  in  the 
larger  things  which  the  average  stall-fed  "  Good  Citizen" 
never  dreams  of.  Mr.  Lukens  is  of  those  Benemeritos, 
He  has  been  at  work  actively  for  years,  personally,  unsel- 
fishly and  at  his  own  expense,  trying  to  save  a  great  heri- 
tage for  a  lot  of  people  of  whom  not  one  in  fifty  knows 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN.  367 

enough  to  thank  him.  He  has  done  more  than  any  other 
one  man  to  check  and  prevent  the  ruinous  forest  fires  which 
have  ravagred  our  mountain  chain,  and  to  reforest  the 
burnt  areas.  He  has  been  the  most  effective  agent  in 
stirring  the  government  to  aid  in  these  critically  necessary 
works.  He  deserves  a  monument  in  and  from  Southern 
California — and  the  best  monument  to  him  would  be  an 
epidemic  of  common  sense  and  foresight  among  his  fellow- 
citizens 

The  forestation  of  the  superb  range  which  backbones 
Southern  California  is  literally  vital.  Unless  we  do  some- 
thing to  protect  our  watershed,  and  do  it  soon,  the  whole 
region  will  become  uninhabitable.  If  our  boasted  intelli- 
gence is  worth  anything,  it  might  as  well  be  applied  here. 

A  thousandth  part  of  the  energy  and  interest  we  have 
devoted  in  a  couple  of  years  to  losing  money  in  oil,  a  tithe 
of  the  mental  strain  that  is  now  devoted  to  reverent  dis- 
cussions of  the  Fakir  of  East  Aurora,  and  of  the  Influence 
of  Greek  Art  on  the  Minds  of  Those  Who  Haven't  Any — 
would  save  our  mountains  and  keep  them  safe.  We  would 
realize  that  the  murderers,  batterers  and  sneak-thieves,  for 
whose  discouragement  we  maintain  a  legal  machinery  that 
costs  hundreds  of  thousands  annually,  are  cheap  and  trivial 
criminals  compared  with  those  who  menace  our  watershed. 
Persons  who  wilfully  or  carelessly  start  fires  in  our  forests 
should  be  sent  to  the  penitentiary  for  not  less  than  one 
year — or  to  the  idiot  asylum  for  life.  They  would  be,  if 
we  realized  the  harm  they  do  us.  But  all  the  average  citi- 
zen remembers  about  mountains  is  that  they  are  hard  to 
climb.  He  forgets  that  God  made  them  On  Purpose,  and 
that  they  have  something  to  do  even  with  business. 

It  is  not  a  local  disease.  Americans  are  notoriously  the 
most  careless  people  in  the  world  about  their  forests — and 
careless,  in  such  case,  means  stupid.  In  maturer  countries 
they  have  learned  that  a  forest  is  a  treasure  ;  but  here  God 
spends  His  time  for  a  hundred  years  to  build  a  noble  tree — 
or  a  thousand  to  make  a  forest — and  along  comes  a  fool 
with  an  ax  or  a  scoundrel  with  a  match,  and  undoes  it  in 
hour.  There  are  thousands  of  Calif ornians,  alas,  who 
read  club  papers,  and  occupy  the  chief  seats  in  the  Syna- 
gogue, and  thrust  out  their  chests  in  the  business  world, 
but  so  naked  of  sense  and  feeling  that  they  would  just  as 
soon  murder  a  tree  as  not — even  out  here,  where  natural 
trees  are  so  few.  But  they  will  have  to  learn  something. 
They  may  not  care  for  the  contempt  of  thoughtful  people  ; 
but  they  will  care  when  *'  hard  times  "  come — and  hard 
times  will  come  here  within  a  decade,  unless  we  pretty 
widely  abandon  our  present  stupidity.     Since  the  ladies 


368  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

are  about  the  only  intellectual  people  left,  suppose  they  try 
their  Clubs  upon  the  heads  of  the  community  to  some  pur- 
pose of  real  good.  In  this  cool  weather  the  usual  topics  of 
discussion  will  keep,  meantime. 

THE  FOX  It  is  evident  that  there  are  strong:  subterranean 

AT  THB  forces  at  work  to  break  down  the  barrier  which  for 

a  ^feneration  this  country  has  maintained  agfainst 
Chinese  immigration.  There  is  more  than  a  remote 
danger  that  the  Exclusion  Act,  now  about  to  expire,  may 
not  be  renewed.  There  would  be  *'  a  great  deal  in  it"  for 
a  good  many  people  if  our  doors  were  opened  to  unre- 
stricted immigration  from  China ;  and  those  people  are 
moving  to  secure  it.  Of  course  the  Chinese  want  to  come. 
It  is  money  to  them.  Of  course  the  vast  transportation 
interests  want  them  to  come.  It  is  money  to  them.  And 
a  great  many  employers  of  labor  would  profit.  But  the 
country  as  a  whole  has  to  *'pay  the  freight,"  and  the 
country  cannot  afford  it. 

The  old  days  and  the  old  bitternesses  are  gone — the  hot 
passions  and  violences  of  word  and  deed  in  that  long,  stub- 
born fight  of  a  dozen  years  to  restrict  John.  There  are  no 
more  Sandlotters  nor  Kearneys.  Even  in  California,  which 
made  the  national  fight,  and  which  was  and  is  most 
directly  concerned,  all  the  old  race-hatred  has  died  out. 
Relieved  of  imminent  peril,  we  have  lived  soberly  with 
John  and  know  him  as  he  is — a  quiet,  rather  human, 
steady-going,  effective  person  ivithout  whom  it  would  be 
eminently  inconvenient  to  do.  He  has  won  a  good  deal  of 
esteem  in  this  20-y ears'  trial,  limited.  Not  even  the  hoodlum 
pulls  his  queue,  nowadays ;  and  when  we  have  a  President 
to  receive  or  a  fiesta  to  make,  we  invite  John  to  participate 
— ^and  his  half-mile  of  the  procession,  aflame  with  silks  and 
gold,  is  the  gem-  of  the  function.  But  all  this  is  because 
we  do  not  have  too  much  of  a  good  thing.  Just  enough 
John  is  as  admirable  as  fire  in  a  cookstove,  but  we  take 
pains  with  our  flues  that  the  fire  may  not  spread  to  the 
woodwork. 

^  The  arguments  in  favor  of  an  open  door  are  very 

^^^SBQuiTUH  ^^^^  ^^^  mouth — and,  to  such  as  think  with  their 
'  emotions,  very  satisfactory.  This  is  the  Land  of 
the  Free  and  the  Home  of  the  Brave,  an  Asylum  for  the 
Oppressed,  and  soon.  Srg-o — but  there  is  no  "Therefore" 
about  it.  A  man  might  as  well  come  to  a  cider-mill  and 
say:  "  I  haven't  any  apples,  but  I've  a  thousand  acres  of 
potatoes  spoiling  on  my  hands.  It's  your  business  to  take 
them.  Aren't  potatoes  as  good  as  apples  ?  Didn't  the 
same  Grod  make  both  ?" 


IN    THE    LION'S   DEN.  369 

Doubtless  He  did.  But  we  in  the  United  States  are  look- 
ing: for  something  that  can  be  made  into  cider.  Almost  any 
apples  will  do — big,  flat,  sweet  ones,  mean,  little,  sour 
ones,  green  apples,  and  apples  pretty  far  gone.  But  they 
have  to  be  apples. 

Now  the  sober  judgment  of  all  thoughtful  men     ^^  mniGBSTioN 
who  know  the  facts  is  that  too  much  Chinaman  °^^^rosT" 

will  not  digest  well  in  a  republic ;  not  because  he 
is  yellow,  not  because  he  is  foreign,  not  wholly  because 
he  is  cheap.  But  because  he  stays  foreign.  He  does  not 
become  a  citizen.  He  is  not  assimilated,  and  he  is  not 
assimilable.  He  has  no  home,  no  wife,  no  child — and  is 
prone  to  the  vices  of  the  homeless  man.  He  is  a  conven- 
ience but  a  drain.  He  sends  most  of  his  money  out  of 
the  country;  and  at  last  his  bones  follow  his  money.  As 
for  his  heart,  it  is  never  here  at  all.  Now  the  United 
States  was  never  meant  for  people  who  do  not  think  it  good 
enough  to  be  buried  in.  It  can — and  does — swallow  and 
digest  the  most  incongruous  and  the  most  unpromising 
elements.  The  poorest  Hungarians,  Poles,  Italians,  be- 
come Americans — still  ignorant,  brutal,  raw,  but  in  the 
clutch  of  those  wonderful  gastric  juices  of  a  Grovernment 
Of  the  People,  By  the  People,  For  the  People.  Hopeless 
as  they  look,  they  do  digest.  They  become  more  American 
than  they  came  ;  their  children  become  more  American  yet. 
They  come  to  stay.     And  they  have  children. 

The  Chinaman  does  not  come  to  stay.  He  comes  to  go 
as  soon  as  he  can  afford  to.  He  has  no  children — and  if 
he  does,  in  the  one  case  of  a  thousand — they  are  Chinese 
children ;  pretty,  picturesque,  dear,  but  irreconcilably  alien. 

Now,  to  people  who  think,  that  is  enough.     This     what  wb 
republic — nor  any  republic — ^cannot  afford  either  of  ^^^^apford 

the  two  horns  of  the  dilemma.  It  cannot  afford  a 
class  of  non-assimilable  aliens  nor  a  class  of  hired  serfs. 
It  cannot  afford  a  considerable  population  unwilling  to  live 
and  die  here.  It  cannot  afford  any  large  element  which 
neither  votes  nor  breeds.  It  cannot  afford  a  large  class 
that  sends  all  its  savings  out  of  the  country.  It  could  not 
afford  Germans  whose  bones  should  lie  uneasy  till  they  got 
back  to  Germany.  It  is  a  country  where  every  man  must 
be  At  Home — not  an  exile  for  wages.  It  is  a  country 
which  has  paid  twice  as  many  lives  and  thrice  as  many 
millions  as  any  other  country  ever  spent  to  find  out  that  it 
had  been  a  fool,  to  get  rid  of  the  most  convenient  alien  that 
ever  came  to  it — and  it  is  still  paying  through  the  nose  for 
that  lesson. 

Least  of  all  can  California  afford  to  be  overrun  with 


370  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

homeless  aliens.  The  g^reatest  curse  of  the  State,  econ- 
omically, is  enormous  holdings  of  land.  They  are  possible 
with  servile  labor.  They  will  be  impossible  when  Amer- 
ican boys  have  a  chance.  Is  there  any  man  so  ig^norant  he 
needs  to  be  told  which  is  the  better  allotment  of  100,000 
acres,  so  far  as  the  welfare  of  the  State  is  concerned — one 
owner  or  a  corporation;  1,000  vagrant  hirelings  "bunk- 
ing" in  haymows  or  *' shacks"  (for  the  Chinese  have  to 
have  better  quarters  on  our  ranches  than  Americans  get) 
— or,  on  the  other  hand,  ten-  thousand  little  farms  of  ten 
acres  each,  each  owned  and  occupied  by  an  American 
family  ?  Which  makes  the  better  community  ?  Which 
adds  more  to  the  assessment  roll  of  the  State  and  to  the 
strength  of  the  nation  ? 

THEWMB  As    Christmas  draws  near,  possibly  there    are  a 

^^  ^AND  HOW      *®^  ^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^*^P  ^^^^  enough  to  think  what 

it  means.     It  is  rather  a  pity  that  with  so  many 

law-abiding  persons  the  real  Christmas  Spirit  has  become 
forgotten.  It  is  the  most  beautiful  of  festivals — the  only 
festival  in  the  calendar  whose  central  thought  is  to  make 
others  happy — but  in  our  modern  practice  it  is  largely  vul- 
garized to  a  mere  perfunctory  giving  of  gifts  to  people  who 
don't  need  them  but  do  expect  them.  And  they  are  gener- 
ally people  who  can  Do  Us  Good. 

The  Lion  is  not  a  religious  person  in  any  ecclesiastical 
sense.  But  he  would  be  mighty  sorry  to  be  without  some 
sort  of  a  religion  that  can  respect  what  is  respectable — 
and  the  Christmas  Spirit  is  one  of  the  most  respectable 
things  now  in  danger  to  become  extinct.  On  all  sides  he 
sees  cynical  babies  too  *'  smart "  to  believe  in  Santa  Claus, 
poor  little  heirs  of  poor  little  elders  who  cannot  understand 
that  beautiful  myth — or  that  such  a  myth  is  truer  than  any 
cash  balance.  And  he  is  sorry  for  these.  Such  as  do  not 
know  how  to  live  are  even  bigger  fools  than  they  who  do 
not  know  how  to  die ;  and  to  live  or  die  decently  one  has  to 
believe  a  few  things  that  are  not  in  the  multiplication- 
table. 

While  we  are  Christmasing,  why  forget  those  who  need 
our  thought  ?  The  Babies  do — and  we  are  not  so  like  to 
forget  as  to  spoil  them.    But  there  are  others. 

In  this  richest  and  happiest  section  of  a  rich  and  happy 
nation,  we  have  several  hundred  Original  Americans  to 
whom  this  December  brings  no  joy.  It  is  the  stated  month 
for  evicting  them — by  the  law  of  our  half-read  Supreme 
Court — from  the  home  their  fathers  have  lived  in  for  cen- 
turies. I  mean  th^  Indians  of  Warner's  Ranch,  whose 
case  has  been  set  forth  here. 

We  are  enjoying  their  country ;    they  are  about  to  be 


IN    THE   LiON'S   DEN.  371 

kicked  out  of  it.  Our  assessment  roll  runs  up  into  the 
hundred  millions ;  they  are  a  sig^ht  of  starvation.  We 
have  such  homes  and  such  luxuries  as  our  own  fathers  never 
dreamed  of ;  they  are  about  to  lose  the  shabby  huts  they 
love,  and  to  have  no  homes  whatever.  Are  we  "well 
enoug^h  off " — in  heart  or  pocket — to  spare  them  a  little 
Christmas  ?    Or  are  we  not  ? 

Anyone  who  thinks  we  are,  can  send  contributions  of 
money,  or  of  really  useful  articles,  prepaid,  to  Rev.  H.  B. 
Restarick,  San  Diego,  Cal.,  who  is  an  active  worker  in  the 
present  movement  to  do  something  permanent  for  these 
shamefully  misused  people.  And  the  Lion  does  not  be- 
lieve anyone's  own  Christmas  will  taste  worse  for  having 
remembered  them. 

In  the  October  number  acknowledgement  was  made  of 
receipt  of  $65  from  a  friend  for  permanent  aid  of  these 
Mission  Indians.  R.  H.  Shoemaker,  of  Pasadena,  Cal., 
now  adds  $5  to  this  fund. 

With  every  day  that  goes  over  our  heads  it  be-     h^R» 
comes  plainer  that  we  have  stumbled  upon  that 
extraordinary  phenomenon,  a  President  who  Pre- 
sides.    Perhaps  nothing  could  remind  us  more  vividly  how 
far  our  politics  have  drifted  from  the  old  anchorage  than 
our  surprise   at  reading  the  new  news.     For  this  is  just 
what  Washington  would  have  done,   if  there  had  been  in 
his  time  any  politician  with  brass  enough  to  request  him 
to  do  what  we  have  come  to  expect  the  presidents  to  be 
asked.     But  Washington  is  a  long  way  back — and  the  poli- 
ticians are  equally  "forward." 

But  here  is  the  President  of  the  United  States  telling 
the  reverend  Senators  that  he  won't  appoint  a  man  they 
recommend  unless  he's  fit  to  be  appointed  !  The  face  of 
him  !  What  does  he  think  we  elect  Presidents  for,  except 
to  pay  the  dirty  debts  of  Congress  ?  What  does  he  imagine 
we  vote  for  Senators  for,  except  to  reward  their  heelers  ? 
The  man  must  think  that  principles  haven't  changed  since 
he  was  a  Police  Commissioner. 

Well,  he  can  afford  to  think  so,  and  we  can  afford  to  have 
him.  Americans  are  pretty  careless  ;  but  they  really  pre- 
fer decent  government — and  in  their  hearts  they  know  what 
it  is,  no  matter  how  they  may  have  let  indecent  politics 
prosper.  And  they  love  a  Man.  They  admire  a  president 
with  a  soul  of  his  own.  They  will  forgive  almost  any- 
thing to  that  sort  of  a  person.  And  the  more  stubborn  he 
is  (with  reasonable  tact)  in  reminding  the  politicians  what 
this  government  is  really  for,  the  more  solidly  he  will  have 
at  his  back  the  American  people. 

Chas.  p.  LxniMis. 


ISA 

man! 


wasted  opportunity : "  Don't  you  think  Seton-Thompaon  ex^geratet 
the  beasts  ?"  To  which  the  only  polite  reply  I  could  mske  was,  in 
effect:  "  Doubtless,  to  a  person  whoae  only  example  of  natural  history 
IB  the  Tammany  Tig'er.  But  if  yon  would  get  Out  Doors  once  yon 
would  discover  that  God  alao  has  exaggerated.  Seton  knows  Nature 
and  tells  it ;  you  don't  know  Nature,  and  are  astounded  when  it  is 
brought  to  yon."  And  other  remarks  as  unaccustomed.  The  truth 
of  the  matter  is  that  Mr.  Seton  not  only  knows,  he  can  prove  he 
knowB.  The  cxtraordinEtry  beauty  of  hiB  telling— and  it  takes  a  poet 
to  interpret  the  Mother  of  all  poeta — is  by  now  well  enough  knovm 
to  a  vei7  large  audience  ;  but  the  vital  thing  ia  that  it  is  true.  Mr. 
Seton  baa  his  documents  by  the  cord — -not  modem  New  York  mems. 
of  stolen  smartnesaes,  but  veritable  data,  sketches  from  life  and 
notes  of  fact.  His  work  ia  on  such  lines  as  the  modem  scientific 
student  follows — I  know  personally  his  procedure  and  hope  to  be  able 
to  judge  of  it.  And  some  feeling  of  this  has  gone  abroad  ;  so  that 
it  is  known  for  an  event  when  this  earnest  man  puts  forth  a  new 
book. 

His  latest  volume.  Lives  of  ike  Hunted,  is  worthy  of  its  prede- 
cessors in  physical  beauty  and  unique  value  and  charm  of  content — 
though  it  includes  some  of  his  less  mature  work.  But  such  stories  a^ 
"  Krag,  the  Kootenay  Kam,"  "  Chink,"  and  particularly  "  Tito,  the 
story  of  the  Coyote  that  learned  how" — these  have  in  English  litera- 
ture no  parallels  except  in  this  man's  own  work.  For  certain  rhe- 
torical reasons  I  cannot  count  this  volume  a  classic — as  Wild  Animals 
I  Have  Known  unquestionably  is — but  no  one  else  in  the  Three 
Americas  has  written  anything  in  its  sort  at  once  so  true  and  so 
beautiful.  From  almost  any  point  of  view  this  t>ook  is  worth  99  per 
cent,  of  the  novels  of  the  year.  Chaa.  Bcribner's  Sons,  153-7  Fifth 
ATenue,  New  York.    $1.75,  net. 

IC  A  poem  and  a  prophecy    all   in  one — and   atrave    alt,  and 

■HK  rarer  than  all,  a  true  book  about  the  West — John  C.  Van 

DB3SRT.  Dyke's  The  Desert  should  be  read  by  every  Westerner  who 
has  mind  enough  to  care  to  know  something  of  God's  Couatry.  Dr. 
Van  Dyke  is  a  very  typical  Easterner  of  the  taller  sort — grown  by 
emergence  to  the  spaces;  a  lover  of  Nature  and  a  gentle  interpreter 
of  her;  and  of  a  rare  eloquence  in  her  despised  behalf.  Perhaps  not 
many  of  ns  realize  now  how  unfamiliar  Nature  has  become  to  the 
overwhelming  majority  of  Americans — whose  fathers  knew  her  at 
least  by  sight.  And  the  man  who  can  nudge  this  incubator  genera- 
tion so  courteously  yet  so  forcibly  as  Dr.  Van  Dyke  does,  merits  our 
gratitude. 

His  theme  in  this  volume  (a  sequel  "Study  in  Natural  Appear- 
ances"   to    his    Nature  for  lis    Own  Sake)   is  the  Sonthwestero 


THAT    WHICH   IS    WRITTEN.  373 

Desert — the  Mojave-Colorado— the  loneliest  and  most  beautiful  area 
on  earth.  In  a  dozen  chapters,  all  beautifully  written  and  nearly  all 
well-taken,  the  author  describes  the  build,  the  color,  the  life — 
and  the  lack-life — the  terror  and  the  charm  of  this  bewitched 
land.  It  is  but  honest  to  admit  that  he  has  astonished  this  reviewer 
— who  knows  a  little  of  the  desert  and  was  not  looking  for  its  poet 
just  yet.  One  learns  by  bitter  proof  to  distrust  beforehand  the  book 
on  the  West ;  it  is  not  the  least  victory  of  Dr.  Van  Dyke  that  he  has 
in  his  own  case  wholly  overcome  this  prejudice. 

The  giant  cactus  is  not  "  properly  Saguaro"  but  Zahuaro;  there  is 
not  a  horizontal  line"  in  the  desert — nor  have  I  seen  one  in  God's 
creation.  I  doubt  if  Dr.  Van  Dyke  ever  found  any  "  agate  beads"  on 
the  desert.  If  he  *'  has  not  seen  the  flowers  that  grow  on  the 
waste  after  the  rains"  luck  has  been  against  him.  I  have  seen  that 
same  desert  so  carpeted  that  in  five  hundred  miles  I  do  not  believe  my 
horse  made  one  step  which  did  not  crush  a  wildflower — precious,  tiny 
ephemera,  bom  of  the  rain,  sprung  swift  as  the  dragon's  teeth  of 
Cadmus  to  their  full  stature  of  two  or  three  inches,  wiped  off  the 
slate  perhaps  in  a  fortnight  by  that  inevitable  sun — but,  while  they 
lasted,  such  a  tapestry  as  doubtless  never  covered  any  other  land  on 
earth. 

But  the  blemishes  in  Dr.  Van  Dyke's  book  are  wonderfully  few ; 
and  its  virtues  are  many  and  great.  Almost  wholly  from  the  aes- 
thetic side,  and  scant  in  touch  of  the  historic  side — the  fact  and  the 
fashion  of  the  heroism  that  has  watered  that  desert  with  such  blood 
as  little  runs  in  human  veins  nowadays — the  book  is  thus  far  the  first 
classic  of  the  desert,  and  will  have  further  reference  in  these  pages. 
Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  15^157  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York.    $1.25. 

Just  why  James  Jeffrey  Roche,  a  cordial   and  welcome      a  piratb 
writer  otherhow,  should  have  felt  prepared  to   "  do"    the  VSRSUS 

Byways  of  War,    The  Story  of  the  Filibusters,  someone  history. 

other  than  this  reviewer  must  say.  For  I  do  not  know.  The  book 
is  not  historical  nor  judicial,  so  far  as  concerns  Walker,  its  supreme 
text.  It  is  peppered  with  ignorances  of  Spanish  and  Spanish  Amer- 
ica; and  all  in  all  it  is  not  done  with  the  conscience  we  think  we  have 
a  right  to  expect  of  Mr.  Roche.  They  were  not  buccaneers — ^by 
three-score  years — **  who  first  sailed  round  the  world."  Sebastian  de 
Blcano  first  performed  that  little  feat — though  the  Encyclopedia 
Britannica  never  heard  of  the  gentleman,  as  he  was  not  English. 
Mr.  Roche's  dictum  as  to  the  Spanish  policy  toward  the  Indians  is 
ignorant  and  British.  What  sort  of  French  name  *'  Raoulx"  may 
be,  the  Canadians  who  now  possess  Boston  can  doubtless  tell ;  but 
even  we  Western  ignoramuses  know  the  butchery  of  Spanish  in 
*' Santa  Ana"  (the  Mexican  dictator  who  made  an  exception  and 
sported  an  extra  N),  "San  Vincente,"  "Mont^,"  "rancherio," 
"Poco  Tiempe,"  "D'Avila,"  "Puntas  Arenas,"  "Jose,"  "Munoz," 
"  Alerts*"  **  Don  Salazar,"  "  consegrada,"  and  many  other  blunders 
which  disfigure  these  pages.  The  "new  town"  of  Panama  is  not 
"  three  miles  inland,"  but  so  insistent  on  tidewater  that  the  most 
notable  feature  of  it  is  its  sea-wall.  Ancho  does  not  mean  "  easy," 
nor  does  Angosto  mean  "  hard."  In  general,  Mr.  Roche's  notions  of 
Spanish- America  are  musty.  As  for  the  pirate  Walker,  history  has 
pretty  fairly  fixed  his  status.  He  meant  well.  So  did  Jefferson 
Davis.  Their  misfortune  was  that  the  laws  of  God  and  man  dis- 
agreed with  them.  Mr.  Roche  has  it  in  him,  I  am  sure,  to  write 
better  books.    Small,  Maynard  &  Co.,  Boston.    $1.50. 

Doctors  we  have,  and  diseases,  and  of  both  too  many —      infi^ambd 
since  neither  do  enough  diseases  finish  the  doctors,  nor  as  to  Thbir 

doctors  enough  conclude  the  diseases.    Perhaps  one  medico  ciTiss. 


374  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

to  each  infirmity — the  best  medico,  of  coarse — ^would  be  enough  ; 
certainly  one  disease  to  each  doctor  were  an  elegant  sufficiency. 

But  under  the  most  unmerciful  category  we  should  still  have  to  re- 
tain John  H.  Girdner,  M.  D. — and  should  preserve  him  gladly.  For 
if  he  has  not  invented,  he  has  diagnosed,  a  new  disease,  whose 
victims  are  counted  by  the  million.  Newyorkitis  is  the  title  of  his 
book  ;  and  this  inspiration  is  well  carried  out  in  the  164  pages  of  an 
unusual  and  suggestive  essay.  "Newyorkitis''  is  a  sweeping  term 
which  includes  Bostonitis,  Chicagoitis,  and  every  other  inflammation 
of  the  Urban  Appendix  in  man.  In  a  word,  it  is  the  disease  of  those 
who  know  no  better  than  to  live  in  great  cities — ^a  sort  of  paresis,  as 
this  veteran  New  York  physician  more  than  once  points  out.  His 
description  of  its  x>athologiea  is  eminently  entertaining,  and  very 
far  from  flippant.  Perhaps  it  is  doctor-like  that  he  prescribes  pallia- 
tives and  antipyrines  instead  of  a  radical  cure.  A  layman  might 
give  the  city-dweller  a  more  drastic  prescription: 

Get  Out. 
But  the  book  is  as  useful  as  it  is  interesting.    The  Grafton  Press, 
New  York. 

THB  RBCORD  Dignity .  and  a  quiet  elegance  mark  the  outward  form  of 

OF  A  Graham  Balfour's  two-volume  Life  of  Robert  Louis  Steven- 

PURB  UFB.  son;  and  the  biographer  has  done  his  work  in  fashion  rather 
commensurate.  Calm,  just  and  judicious,  well-ordered  and  compre- 
hensive, there  is  no  reasonable  doubt  that  this  will  last  as  the  stand- 
ard **  Lrife"  of  that  strange,  almost  disembodied  spirit  whose  candle 
has  shone  so  bravely  in  a  naughty  world.  Indeed,  it  is  in  many  ways 
a  model  of  what  a  biography  should  be,  not  only  by  its  equity  but  by 
the  patience  and  aptness  with  which  it  has  selected  from  Stevenson's 
own  words  so  much  of  the  telling  of  the  story.  The  unspeakable 
pathos  of  that  unequal  existence,  the  vicissitudes  of  the  fire-like 
spirit  in  its  shabby  tenement ;  the  joy  of  life  in  the  body  of  that 
death,  the  good  cheer  amid  what  should  have  crushed  a  robuster 
frame,  the  fairly  Greek  poise  of  this  unquenchable  soul,  the  unearth- 
liness  and  yet  the  concurrent  humanity  of  this  nature  rather  elfin 
than  man — these  are  well  and  seriously  given  to  be  known.  In  this 
day  of  pictures  one  might  wish  more  illustrations  than  two  portraits 
and  a  map  in  over  500  octavo  pages.  Foolish  pictures  are  a  sin  ;  but 
illustrations  which  illustrate  are  a  duty.  For  example's  sake  it  would 
have  been  well  to  include,  in  the  chapter  on  Stevenson's  sorry  year  in 
California,  the  scenes  he  touched.  We  might  even  have  had  the  pic- 
turesque Simoneau,  whose  little  inn  at  Monterey  is  so  exalted  by 
Stevenson  [see  this  magazine  for  Nov.,  1900,  p.  325]  ;  and  as  much 

*  is  true  of  all  the  other  scenes  with  which  he  was  associated — in  Great 
Britain,  in  America,  and  in  the  South  Seas.  Chas.  Scribner's  Sons, 
153-157  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York.     Two  vols.,  $4  net. 

C.   F.  Lr. 

FROM  A  Ten  addresses  given  by  Frederic  Harrison  before  various 

POSiTiviST  clubs,  colleges    and  universities,  during  his  visit  to  the 

viBW-FOiNT.  United  States  last  spring,  have  been  published  under  the 
title  of  George  W<ishington  and  Other  American  Addresses,  The  range 
of  subjects  is  wide — from  the  character  and  literary  work  of  King 
Alfred  to  an  estimate  of  the  closing  years  of  the  nineteenth  century, 
somewhat  at  odds  with  that  of  the  clamorous  "prosperity" 
shriekers.  Mr.  Harrison's  rank  as  student  of  history  and  leader 
of  positivist  thought  in  England  is  too  secure — and  too  well  earned — 
to  need  the  assurance  of  any  critic  that  what  he  says  is  worth  hear- 
ing and  heeding.    The  Macmillan  Co.,  New  York.    $1.75. — C.  A.  M. 


THAT    WHICH   IS    WRITTEN.  375 

Among^  the  oldest  and  most  popular  of  the  world's  stories      Ths 
is  that  of  the  Master  Thief — the  man  who  pits  his  own  wit,  snTSRPRISIng 

resource,  and  reckless  courage  against  the  OKganized  forces  burglar. 

of  society  and  takes  what  he  wants  from  between  the  paws  of  its 
watch-dogs.  Mr.  Homung's  Raffles  is  of  this  type,  and  not  the  least 
attractive.  Those  who  have  followed  his  fortunes  and  foreseen  the 
inevitable  disaster  will  be  glad  that  he  does  not  meet  his  fate  at  the 
hands  of  any  catch-poll,  but  gallantly  and  on  the  battle-field. 
Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  New  York.    $1.50. — C.  A.  M. 

After  all,  even  the  most  brilliant  and  daring  of  the  old-      The 
time  nimble-fingered  gentry  were  but  petty  rogues  and  their  modbrn 

grains  too  trifling  to  count.      The  Kings  of  the  Craft  do  duval. 

things  on  a  larger  scale  today ;  nor,  rightly  considered,  does  the  lack 
of  hazard  to  their  personal  safety  detract  from  the  credit  due  them. 
Indeed  we  recognize  their  greater  merit  by  inventing  new  titles  of 
honor  in  place  of  "thieves,"  "highwaymen,"  "swindlers,"  and 
the  like,  and  speak  of  "promoters,"  "politicians,"  "financiers" 
and  "trust-magnates."  In  The  Autocrats^  Charles  K.  Lusk  has 
drawn  a  powerful  picture  of  a  modem  Knight  of  the  Road.  His 
victims  are  a  city-full  at  once,  his  accomplices  are  the  men  chosen  by 
the  people  to  protect  them.  He  buys  a  newspaper  or  a  Common 
Council  with  equal  ease  and  readiness ;  and  so  far  from  fearing  halter 
or  prison-cell,  he  looks  confidently  forward  to  a  seat  in  the  United 
States  Senate.  The  pity  of  it  is  that  the  story  is  so  true  a  picture — 
in  essentials,  if  not  in  detail  and  circumstance.  Doubleday,  Page 
A  Co.,  New  York  ;   C.  C.  Parker,  Los  Angeles.    $1.50.— C.  A.  M. 

i^hat  William  Barry  is  a  scholarly  and  cultivated  gentle-      a  talk 
man,  of  keen  insight,  broad  sympathy  and  admirably  blended  op  THB 

wit  and  humor  would  appear  clearly  enough  from  his  latest  paminb. 

book.  The  fVizard's  Knot,  That  he  is  Catholic  priest,  doctor  of 
divinity,  even  professor  of  theology,  would  never  be  guessed  by  those 
who  know  him  only  through  his  stories.  The  scene  of  this  one  is  Ireland, 
and  the  time  the  black  famine-year  of  '46.  The  tale  grips  one  from 
the  first  paragraph  and  the  interest  never  flags.  The  dialogue  fairly 
sparkles,  yet  is  never  strained  or  improbable.  Altogether  it  is  a  book 
one  would  not  willingly  have  missed  reading.  The  Century  Co., 
New  York.    $1.50.— C.  A.  M. 

The  wealthy  villain  in  Justice  To  The    IVoman    "dines      the 
sumptuously  on  port  wine  and  soft-shelled  crabs,"   while  MB  AT  H9 

"  the  woman  who  should  be  his  wife  eats  crusts  dipped  in  pbbds  on. 

tea."  As  he  richly  deserves,  he  loses  his  money  as  well  as  his  diges- 
tion, and  when  he  finally  offers  to  make  the  wronged  woman  his  wife 
she  declines,  even  though  he  "should  bring  all  the  licenses  and  all 
the  preachers  in  Border  City."  A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.,  Chicago.  $1.25. 
— C.  A.  M. 

Quite  the  right  sort  of  a  boy's  book — clean,  wholesome,      "Thb 
with  plenty  of  stirring  action,  and  successful  achievement  goi«dbn 

at  the  end  of  it — ^is  Elizabeth  Grerberding's    The    Golden  chimnby." 

Chimney.  The  boy  hero,  with  some  inspiration  from  a  girl  cousin, 
some  assistance  from  more  experienced  heads  and  hands  and  with 
no  more  obstacles  than  are  good  for  him,  extracts  a  nest-egg  for 
fortune  from  an  abandoned  smelter.  Readers  of  this  magazine  will 
remember  Mrs.  Grerberding's  recent  story — shorter  and  in  a  different 
vein — in  these  pages.  A.  M.  Robertson,  San  Francisco.  $1.00  net. 
A.  M. 


Ray  Stannard  Baker  saw  a  great  variety  of  persons  and      prom 
things  in  Germany,  from  the  Kaiser  and  Ernst  Haeckel  to  kaisbr  to 

the  recruit  in  the  army,  and  from  the  Reichsanstalt  to  the  BBBR  mugs. 


376  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

wooden  beer-mng«,  and  haa  told  of  them  entertainingly  in  Seen  in 
Germany.  He  haa  the  eye  and  the  style  of  the  better  type  of  news- 
paper man.  The  book  is  attractive  to  the  eye,  barring*  a  few  gross 
blunders  in  proof-reading.  McClure,  Phillips  A  Co.,  New  Tork.  $2.00 
neif  $2.15  postpaid. — C.  A.  M. 

HOW  TO  '*  He  who  seriously  desires    any    worthy   attainment  can 

GBT  WHAT  gain  it,  if  he  unites  that  desire  with  perfect  faith  that  the 

YOU  WANT,  good  he  wishes  will  come  to  him.'*  Floyd  B.  Wilson's 
Paths  to  Power  is  devoted  partly  to  expansion,  demonstration  and  il- 
lustration of  this  theme ;  partly  to  specific  directions  for  coming  into 
such  control  over  one's  own  forces  and  such  harmony  with  the  Infi- 
nite as  shall  bring  his  best  ideals  within  the  grasp  of  each  one.  The 
essays  show  wide  reading,  earnest  and  profound  thought  and  the 
power  of  convincing  statement.  Grant  Mr.  Wilson's  premises,  and 
his  conclusions  are  not  to  be  avoided.  R«  C.  Fenno  Sl  Co.,  New  York. 
$1.00.— C.  A.  11. 

GOOD  Vivid,  dramatic,  life-like  and  stirring  are  most  of  Frank 

RAILROAD  H.  Spearman's  ten  stories  of  railroad  life  on  the  mountain 

STORiBS.  division  of  a  Western  railroad,  now  collected  under  the  title 
of  Held  For  Orders.  If  no  one  would  write  for  publication  until  he 
knew  his  field — ^and  his  characters — ^as  Mr.  Spearman  does,  there 
would  be  fewer  publishers  and  much  [cause  for  thankfulness.  Jay 
Hambridge's  drawings  are  as  convincing  as  photographs.  Bven  so 
must  have  looked  "Terza"  and  "Shackley"  and  "Jimmie  the 
Wind  "  and  the  rest  of  them,  and  no  otherwise.  McClure,  Phillips 
&  Co.,  New  York.    $1.50.— <:.  A.  M. 

Again  In  The  Tempting  of  Father  Anthony,  George  Horton  draws 

HORTON  an  entertaining  picture  of   life    among    the  peasantry  of 

AND  GRBBCK.  modern  Greece.  The  local  color  is  convincing  and  judiciously 
applied,  while  the  fun — albeit  somewhat  of  the  rough-and-tumble 
order — is  amusing.  So  long  as  the  temptations  of  the  would-be 
saint  are  engineered  by  mere  devils,  he  overcomes  them  valiantly, 
but  when  a  real  woman  tries  her  hand  he  promptly  succumbs.  A.  C. 
McClurg  A  Co.,  Chicago.    $1.25.— C.  A.  M. 

WOMKN  From  her  wide  study  of  the  records  of  the  past,  Amelia 

AND  THK  Gere  Mason  has  emerged  with  the  conclusion  that  **  other 

PAST,  women  have  been  as  clever  as  we  are,  and  as  strong,  if  not 
individually  stronger ;  many  have  been  as  good,  a  few  perhaps  have 
been  more  wicked  than  most  of  us ;  and  the  majority  have  had  a 
great  deal  more  to  complain  of."  Her  Woman  In  the  Golden  Ages  is 
mainly  a  sympathetic  study  of  the  character  and  accomplishment  of 
the  women  whose  names  have  come  down  to  us  from  three  *'  golden 
ages" — those  of  Greece,  Rome  and  the  Renaissance.  It  seems  clear 
that,  even  as  now,  women  were  then  quite  up  to  the  deserts  of  the 
Rest  of  Us.    The  Century  Co.,  New  York.    $1.80«^/.— C.  A.  M. 

\\  Eyes  to  see,  patience  to  wait,  wit  to  understand,  and  the  gift  of 
telling — these  are  some  of  Dallas  L<ore  Sharp's  endowments.  His 
Wild  Life  Near  Home,  (**  home  "  in  this  instance  being  a  comer  of 
southern  New  Jersey)  will  be  a  treat  to  every  nature-lover — and 
might  even  aid  in  the  conversion  of  the  unregenerate.  Bruce  Hors- 
fall's  artistic  and  truthful  illustrations  add  much  to  the  charm  of  the 
text.  The  volume  as  a  whole  is  an  admirable  specimen  of  book- 
making  **as  is."    The  Century  Co.,  New  York.    $2  net. 

No  better  peg  on  which  to  hang  a  tale  of  adventure  has  been  found 
than  Henry  of  Navarre.  Hamilton  Drummond  has  chosen  him  as 
the  player  who  moves  A  King*s  Pawn.  Ambition,  revenge  and  fealty 
are  the  master  passions  in  this  stirring  tale,  love  entering  barely  at 
all.  Doubleday,  Page  &  Co.,  New  York  ;  C.  C.  Parker,  Los  Angeles. 
$1.50.— C.  A.  M. 


ANIKBI- 


ConducM  by  WILLIAM  E.  SMYTHE. 

Is  Theodore  Roosevelt  to  be  a  g:enuine  Irrigation  Presi- 
dent— one  who  will  make  the  reclamation  of  the  arid  pnblic  "* 
lands  a  leading:  policy  of  his  administratioti  7  It  is  peraist- 
entlj  reported,  apparently  oo  the  beat  authority,  that  he  will  give 
conspicuous  recognition  to  this  cause  in  his  first  message  to  Con- 
gress. In  that  case,  we  shall  have  a  new  national  issue  and  the  men 
of  the  West  are  perfectly  certain  that  it  will  gain  in  prominence 
until  it  shall  finally  become  triumphant  and  add  a  new  and  lirilliant 
page  to  the  country's  history.  Just  how  far  the  President  will  go  in 
his  first  recommendation  remains  to  be  seen,  but  he  was  clearly  on 
record  in  favor  of  national  irrigation  nearly  a  year  before  he  came  to 
the  Presidency,  and  this  fact  alone  is  sufficient  to  encourage  the 
friends  of  the  movement  to  bring  their  measures  forward  with  re- 
doubled energy  next  winter.  The  presence  of  a  friendly  mind  in  the 
White  House  brings  to  the  old  soldiers  of  the  cause — the  Old  Guard 
of  Irrigation — a  joy  which  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to  express. 
John  Greenleaf  Whittier,  looking  back  over  his  career  at  the  age  of 
eighty,  advised  young  men  as  follows:  "Choose  some  true  but  un- 
|iopu)ar  cause  and  give  your  full  strength  to  it  if  you  would  know 
what  life's  victories  are."  Never  was  there  a  truer  cause  than  this 
one  which  makes  for  the  economic  independence  of  future  >iilIioiis. 
Never  was  there  one  with  leas  popularity  ten  years  ago.  The  young 
men  who  took  it  up  at  that  time,  and  earlier,  are  beginning  to  feel 
that  they  may  possibly  live  to  "know  what  life's  victories  are." 
This  is  an  appropriate  time  to  review  the  history  of  the  movement 
since  it  became  an  organized  force  in  the  life  of  our  times,  and  to 
consider  the  various  steps  by  which  it  has  risen  to  its  present  com- 
manding position.  Such  a  review  may  be  useful  to  many  readers  of 
these  pages  who  have  become  interested  in  the  subject  only  during 
the  past  three  or  four  years. 

The  first  session  of  the  National  Irrigation  Congress  as- 
sembled at  Salt  Lake  City  in  September,  1891.  The  formal 
call  was  issued  by  Arthur  L.  Thomas,  then  Governor  of 
Utah,  but  the  movement  was  actually  tram  one  wintry  day  on  the 
bridge  which  spans  the  PlattdKiver  at  Ogalalla,  Nebraska.  The 
year  of  1S90  was  a  disastrous  one  in  the  Com  Belt.  The  crops  bad 
been  burned  up  by  the  sun  which  poured  down  from  skies  of  brass 
and  by  hot  winds  that  came  out  of  the  South  like  the  breath  of  a 


HOWTBB 
CAUSE 

WAS  BORM. 


378  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE, 

furnace.  Men  had  prayed  for  rain  and  indulged  in  faating  and 
humiliation,  but  the  rain  came  not.  Finally,  it  occurred  to  some  one 
that  it  would  be  better  to  stop  praying  and  begin  to  dig  ditches  to 
turn  the  rivers  upon  the  soil.  Thus  was  bom  a  movement  in 
Nebraska  which  revolutionized  the  economic  character  of  the  west- 
em  half  of  that  State.  This  movement  held  its  first  meeting  at  Red 
Willow,  which  was  followed  by  others  throughout  the  western 
counties.  After  a  very  enthusiastic  meeting  at  Ogalalla  some  of  the 
leaders  strolled  out  upon  the  long  bridge  over  the  Platte  and  fell  to 
discussing  the  possibilities  of  a  new  national  movement  which 
should  save  half  a  continent  for  civilization.  The  matter  took 
shape  at  a  State  convention  held  at  Lincoln  in  the  spring  of  1890. 
A  committee  was  appointed  to  enlist  support  and  arrange  for  the 
first  national  gathering.  This  committee  induced  Governor  Thomas 
to  issue  a  call  inviting  the  various  States,  cities,  counties,  commer- 
cial and  agricultural  bodies  to  send  delegates  to  Salt  Lake  in  the 
early  autumn  of  1891.  And  there  was  launched  a  movement  which 
has  finally  developed  a  new  nationarissue  and  now  counts  among  its 
supporters  the  President  of  the  United  States. 

THB  Before    consenting  to    issue  the  call   for   the    Congress, 

^^^^^  Governor   Thomas    consulted    many    leading   public    men 

'  throughout  the  West  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  whether 
there  was  any  proposition  upon  which  they  could  be  united.  He 
found  such  a  proposition  in  the  plan  of  having  the  general  govern- 
ment cede  the  entire  public  domain,  except  mineral  lands,  to  the 
several  States  in  which  they  are  situated.  Hence,  he  shaped  his 
call  to  this  end.  The  frankly  avowed  object  of  the  convention  was 
to  consider  the  advisability  of  this  policy  of  wholesale  cession.  A 
more  representative  body  than  that  which  came  together  at  Salt 
Lake  has  seldom  been  assembled  in  the  West.  From  California, 
among  others,  came  C.  C.  Wright,  W.  H.  Mills,  John  P.  Irish,  Will 
6.  Green,  M.  M.  Estee,  L.  M.  Holt ;  from  Nevada,  Senator  Stewart 
and  Francis  G.  Newlands ;  from  Montanai  W.  A.  Clark,  Governor 
Toole,  A.  C.  Botkin  and  other  foremost  citizens ;  from  Wyoming, 
Senators  Warren  and  Carey,  Blwood  Mead,  Andrew  Gilchrist,  J.  A. 
Johnston ;  from  Colorado,  Piatt  Rogers,  then  Mayor  of  Denver, 
some  of  the  prominent  men  of  Greeley,  and  many  others  conspicuous 
in  the,  industrial  life  of  the  State ;  from  Kansas,  James  S.  Emery 
axxdlJ,  W.  Gregory;  from  Utah,  Wilford  Woodruff, George  Q.Cannon, 
C.  C.  Goodwin.  These  are  but  a  few  of  many  names  composing 
what  was  really  an  unusually  brilliant  gathering.  Ten  States  and 
Territories  were  represented.  Governor  Thomas  opened  the  conven- 
tion with  a  felicitous  speech,  in  which  he  set  forth  the  importance  of 
irrigation  in  connection  with  future  development,  and  explained  his 
action  in  outlining  a  definite  proposition  in  his  call  for  the  meeting. 
During  the  three  days  in  which  the  convention  sat,  there  was  but  one 
topic  discussed,  and  it  brought  out  a  series  of  very  able  speeches. 
At  the  conclusion,  a  resolution  was  adopted  demanding   that  the 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  379 

arid  public  domain  be  transferred  to  the  States.  The  action  was 
practically,  if  not  quite,  unanimous.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  it 
represented  the  best  sentiment  of  the  West  at  the  time.  But  some 
wonderful  things  have  happened  during  the  last  ten  years. 

It  is  a  matter  of  historical  interest,  at  least,  to  consider      THB 
this  policy  of  cession,  even  though  it  is  now  abandoned  by  cession 

nearly  all  who  advocated  it  in  1891.    At  that  time  no  one  pi,an. 

dreamed  of  public  irrigation  works  to  be  built  by  the  nation.  Cali- 
fornia had  recently  entered  upon  a  policy  of  public  works  constructed 
by  districts,  and  there  were  doubtless  many  who  looked  to  reclama* 
tion  by  means  of  great  reservoirs  and  canals  to  be  created  by  the 
States.  But  that  Uncle  Sam  himself  could  be  induced  to  look  upon 
irrigation  as  a  legitimate  part  of  his  general  scheme  of  internal  im- 
provements, no  one  then  thought  or  believed,  so  far  as  the  writer  is 
aware.  It  must  be  rememt>ered  that  at  that  time  private  irrigation 
enterprise  was  extremely  active  and  had  encountered  no  serious  set- 
back. Men  saw  fortunes  in  the  work  of  conducting  water  to  public 
lands  so  that  they  could  be  settled  under  existing  laws.  Public  senti- 
ment gave  every  encouragement  to  such  undertakings.  It  was  not 
realized  that  such  private  enterprise  might  prove  unprofitable  to  the 
capital  employed,  or  that  there  were  dangers  to  the  community  in 
this  form  of  development.  Everybody  wanted  the  lands  watered 
and  settled  without  delay.  Capital  seemed  eager  for  the  work.  It 
was  believed  that  if  each  State  controlled  the  public  lands  within  its 
borders,  it  could  readily  arrange  for  their  speedy  reclamation  on  lines 
attractive  alike  to  investors  and  to  settlers.  This  would  g^ve  an 
enormous  impulse  to  business  throughout  the  West  and  open  new 
outlets  for  the  nation's  surplus  population.  Furthermore,  this  policy 
of  self-reliance  would  command  the  approval  of  the  Kast,  and  could 
therefore  be  carried  out  with  very  little  delay.  At  that  early  time, 
however,  the  inadequacy  of  existing  local  water  laws  was  keenly 
realized,  and  the  managers  of  the  movement  strove  earnestly  to 
unite  all  the  States  upon  a  uniform  code  similar  to  that  of  Wyoming. 

After  the  adjournment  of  the  Salt  Lake  Congress  two      mbmorablk 
years  elapsed  before  another  was  held.    During  this  time  i«os  angblbs 

the  plan  of  ceding  the  lands  developed  strenuous  opposition,  congress. 

particularly  in  California.  The  strongest  newspapers  in  San  Fran- 
cisco and  Los  Angeles  bitterly  assailed  it  as  a  land-grabbing  scheme. 
They  declared  that  the  big  irrigation  companies,  aided  and  abetted 
by  the  railroads,  were  bent  on  getting  possession  of  the  people's 
heritage,  and  that  Western  legislatures  simply  could  not  be  trusted  to 
avert  such  a  calamity.  The  Congress  which  assembled  at  Lios  An- 
geles in  October,  1893,  was  very  largely  composed  of  Califomians, 
with  representatives  of  the  seven  southern  counties  predominating. 
The  sentiment  was  overwhelmingly  opposed  to  the  plan  of  cession. 
But  the  result  was  a  compromise.  The  platform  declared  that  the 
irrigation  problem  ''  is  national  in  its  essence ;"  then  provided  for 
the  appointment  of  five  commissioners  in  each  State,  acting  under 


380  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

the  attthorityof  the  Irrig^ation  Congrress,  to  make  a  thorough  canvass 
of  public  sentiment  and  render  full  reports  at  the  next  year's  conven- 
tion. It  was  believed  that  with  such  reports  as  a  basis  a  definite 
policy  could  be  formulated  which  would  represent  deliberate  and 
well-considered  conclusions.  But  it  may  be  truthfully  said  that  the 
LfOS  Ang'eles  Congress  gave  birth  to  the  first  public  sentiment  in 
favor  of  national  irrigation  works.  L/ionel  A.  Sheldon  was  chair- 
man of  the  Committee  on  Resolutiops  and  one  of  the  leading  figures 
of  the  convention.  In  an  impassioned  speech  he  declared :  "  Speak- 
ing for  myself,  I  want  to  say  that  I  do  not  believe  this  problem  can 
ever  be  solved  until  the  nation  constructs  reservoirs  and  canals  to 
reclaim  the  public  domain."  This  was  received  with  a  storm  of  ap- 
plause. From  that  moment  public  sentiment  veered  away  from  the 
idea  of  cession  and  began  to  point  unmistakably  in  the  direction  of 
outright  national  irrigation.  But  years  were  to  pass  before  this  new 
line  of  thought  should  crystallize  into  a  definite  policy,  backed  by 
the  grim  determination  of  the  men  of  the  West. 

THS  The    next  Congress,  held  at   Denver  in  the  fall  of  1894, 

DENVER  received  elaborate  reports  from  the  several  State  Commis- 

sions.  These  reports  represented  a  wide  variety  of  opinion, 
but  the  trend  was  strongly  in  favor  of  putting  the  burden  of  action 
upon  the  broad  shoulders  of  Uncle  Sam.  How  could  this  be  accom- 
plished? It  was  decided  that  two  things  should  be  attempted,  as 
follows:  First,  the  officers  of  the  Irrigation  Congress  should  en- 
deavor to  rally  public  sentiment  in  the  West  in  favor  of  the  reform  of 
local  water  laws,  taking  those  of  Wyoming  as  a  model;  second,  the 
Congress  at  Washington  should  be  asked  to  create  a  National  Irriga- 
tion Commission,  consisting  of  one  representative  each  of  the  Pacific 
Coast,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Region,  and  of  the  Great  Plains, 
charged  with  the  duty  of  investigating  the  whole  subject  and  formu- 
lating a  definite  policy  to  ^  submitted  later  to  the  President.  This 
Commission  should  draw  upon  the  Interior,  Agricultural,  and  War 
Departments  for  facilities  at  their  command  in  prosecuting  its  investi- 
gations. It  was  believed  that  this  dual  plan  would  lead  to  the  best 
results — that  while  it  was  the  longest  way  around  it  was  also  the 
shortest  way  home.  In  the  meantime  it  avoided  the  two  horns  of 
the  dilemma,  kept  the  movement  in  the  West  united,  provided  a 
period  which  could  be  used  for  the  education  of  national  sentiment, 
and  laid  the  indispensable  foundation  of  a  code  of  just  water  laws 
throughout  the  Arid  Region.  The  Denver  deliverance  was  a  disap- 
pointment to  many  at  the  time,  because  they  were  impatient  for 
immediate  results.  Probably  the  writer  was  as  much  responsible  for 
this  program  as  any  other  individual,  since  he  was  National  Chair- 
man and  official  head  of  all  the  commissions  whose  reports  formed . 
the  basis  of  the  action.  What  was  done  seemed  to  the  writer  then 
far  wiser  than  any  declaration  in  favor  of  a  specific  plan  for  reclaim- 
ing the  arid  lands,  either  State  or  national.  And,  looking  back  at  it 
now  after  a  lapse  of  seven  years,  it  still  seems  the  wisest  thing  that 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  381 

cottld  have  been  done  at  Denver  under  the  conditions  which  existed  in 
1894.  The  only  real  reason  for  regret  is  that  the  plan  was  not  carried 
out.  There  was  then  no  money  to  wage  a  battle  of  continental  scope. 
The  men  who  had  carried  it  that  far  had  done  so  at  the  cost  of  bitter 
personal  sacrifice.  The  time  had  come  when  they  could  no  longer 
give  it  their  exclusive  attention.  But  the  cause  they  had  inaugu- 
rated moved  slowly  on  and  at  last  found  workers  who  could  command 
the  necessary  support  to  make  it  more  vital  and  powerful  than  it 
had  ever  been. 

Subsequent  sessions  of  the  Irrigation  Congress  were  held      chittsndbn 
at  Albuquerque  in  1895,  Phoenix  in  18%,  Lincoln  in  1897,  ^^^ 

Cheyenne  in  1898,  Missoula  in  1899,  Chicago  in  1900.     The  maxwbi,!,. 

progress  of  Western  thought  gradually  led  up  to  the  Chicago  declara- 
tion for  national  irrigation  works,  with  water  rights  limited  to  actual 
beneficial  use.  The  most  important  events  contributing  to  this 
result  were  the  reports  of  Captain  Hiram  M.  Chittenden,  indicating 
the  national  character  of  water  storage  for  the  reclamation  of  public 
lands,  and  the  accession  of  George  H.  Maxwell  to  the  chairmanship 
of  the  National  Committee  of  the  Irrigation  Congress.  Captain 
Chittenden's  reports  carried  a  weight  which  they  gained  from  his 
official  connection  with  the  government  and  from  his  standing  as  a 
scientific  man.  Mr.  Maxwell  had  the  discernment  to  make  the  most 
of  such  an  endorsement,  the  genius  to  organize  powerful  financial 
support,  and  the  energy  to  wage  tireless  battle  for  the  cause.  He  has 
rallied  the  commercial  interests  of  the  country,  particularly  of  the 
Middle  West,  behind  the  demand  for  the  utilization  of  this  supremest 
opportunity  to  widen  the  home  market  for  all  American  products. 
This  is  the  story  of  the  progress  of  the  cause  from  the  Ogalalla  bridge 
to  Washington — from  the  dim  vision  of  enthusiasts  to  the  realization 
of  a  great  national  issue  to  be  fought  out  now  in  Congress  and 
White  House. 

And  now  that  this  stupendous  journey  has  been  accom-      now 
plished  what  is  it,  pray,  that  we  want  ?     Irrigation  ?     Yes,  what  do 

of  course,  but  on  what  terms  and  conditions  ?  What  precise 
measure  do  we  favor  7  In  the  last  Congress  there  were  a  number  of 
bills  representing  as  many  different  methods  and  no  one  of  them 
commanded  any  general  support,  or  was  even  generally  known,  in 
the  West.  They  served  only  to  draw  the  fire  of  the  opposition  and  to 
induce  certain  prominent  Republicans — ^like  Senator  Piatt,  Greneral 
Grovesnor,  and  Chairman  Cannon  of  Appropriations — to  remark  that 
the  declaration  in  their  national  platform  in  favor  of  irrigation  was 
only  a  campaign  amenity  to  be  taken  in  a  Pickwickian  sense.  But 
Roosevelt  was  not  President  then. 

One  thing  is  not  open  to  dispute.    That  is  that  when  the      OKR 

nation  shall  have  put  the  flood  waters  into  reservoirs  the  thing 

cartain 
States  must  assume  the  burden  of  distribution.    Congress 

has  no  power  to  deal  with  the  non-navigable  streams.    Well,  then, 

nearly  all  of  these  streams  have  been  appropriated  and  over-appro- 


3d2  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

priated.  Rififhts  to  their  flow  are  entirely  unsettled  and  involved  in 
a  tangle  of  litigation.  In  most  States  there  is  no  exercise  of  public 
authority  in  distributing  these  waters.  Will  the  nation  build  the 
reservoirs  without  an  absolute  guarantee  that  the  supply  thus  im- 
pounded will  be  delivered  in  good  faith  to  the  public  lands  7  Surely 
not,  if  it  knows  it  business.  How  can  most  of  our  States — California, 
for  instance, — ^give  such  a  guarantee  ?  Only  by  a  sweeping  reform 
of  their  water  laws  which  shall  include  the  readjudication  of  all 
existing  rights,  so  that  they  can  no  longer  be  open  to  question;  State 
supervision  over  future  appropriations;  and  rigid  public  administra- 
tion over  the  distribution  of  the  supply  among  multitudes  of  users. 
These  reforms  must  precede  national  works  and  Congress  will  fall 
short  of  its  duty  if  it  fails  to  make  the  performance  of  this  an  im- 
perative condition  of  the  construction  of  reservoirs  in  any  State  or 
Territory. 

OTHER  There  are  other  important  things  to  be  determined  before 

KNOTTY  ^g  ^5a.n  hope  to  harvest  the  fruits  of  the  coming  national 

^  ^'      policy.  Existing  land  laws  have  almost  totally  failed  to  pre. 

vent  speculators  from  getting  lands  intended  for  settlers.    How  can 

this  point  be  guarded  in  new  legislation  ?    What  is  to  be  the  size  of 

individual  entries  on  these  irrigated  lands?  Many  million  acres  belong 

to' railroads  and  are  so  located  as  to  be  completely  intermingled  with 

the  public  lands.    It  is  impossible  to  irrigrsLte  the  one  without  making 

the  supply  available  for  the  other.    Upon  what  terms  are  these  private 

lands  to  be  watered  ?    These  are  a  few  of  many  new  questions  that 

come  to  the  surface  with  the  rise  of  national  irrigation  as  a  practical 
issue.  We  seem  to  be  on  the  right  road  and  drawing  near  to  our 
destination,  but  we  should  not  deceive  ourselves  with  the  hope  that 
all  these  complicated  questions  are  to  be  disposed  of  in  a  month,  or  a 
year.  The  battle  now  enters  upon  a  new  and  most  interesting  phase 
but  must  still  go  on  for  an  indefinite  time  in  the  future. 

TRIUMPHANT  The  steady  growth  of  cooperation  is  in  the  highest  degree 

co-OPBR-  encouraging  to  those  who  believe  that  this  is  to  be  the 

ATiON.  strongest  force  in  the  future  economic  life  of  this  Western 
land.  The  most  hopeful  thing  about  it  is  that  it  comes  as  a  matter 
of  natural  evolution  rather  than  as  the  result  of  agitation.  The 
wheat-gprowers  got  together  in  September  to  consider  how  they  might 
combine  the  producers  engaged  in  that  stupendous  industry.  The 
following  month  saw  a  similar  meeting  of  the  olive-growers.  Both 
are  seeking  to  follow  where  the  raisers  of  oranges,  of  prunes,  of 
raisins  and  other  fruits  led  the  way.  All  this  comes  about  in  response 
to  the  instinct  of  self-preservation.  It  simply  does  not  pay  for  the 
individual  to  deal  alone  with  the  commission-house  or  the  railroad. 
But  it  does  pay  for  the  mass  of  individuals  to  pool  their  issues  and 
sell  their  products  inrecisely  as  they  would  do  if  they  were  one  instead 
of  thousands.  In  the  same  way  the  Californians  have  begun  on  a 
considerable  scale  to  cooperate  in  purchasing  their  supplies.  They 
have  their  wholesale  store  in  San  Francisco  and  retail  establishments 
distributed  throughout  the  State.  Gradually,  surely,  almost  silently, 
we  are  laying  the  foundations  of  a  new  civilization  in  these  valleys 
in  which  the  common  man  shall  enjoy  better  conditions  of  living 
than  he  ever  knew  in  the  past.  And  to  do  this  thing  is  the  Grod-given 
mission  of  the  West. 


383 


How  TO  Colonize  the  Pacific  Coast. 

THIHD  PAPBR. 
INDUSTRIAI,  AND  SOCIAI,  INSTITUTIONS. 

ATN  these  papers  it  has  been  contended  that  the  g^eat  examples  of 
I  successful  colonization  in  the  West  are  cooperative  settlements, 
^  notably  those  in  parts  of  Colorado  and  Southern  California  and 
all  of  Utah.  Last  month  it  was  suggested  that  all  the  active  land 
interests  in  California  might  well  form  a  union  in  order  to  employ 
the  methods  which  were  used  in  the  enlistment  of  Greeley,  Anaheim, 
Riverside  and  Salt  Lake.  Getting  the  settlers  is,  however,  but  half 
the  battle.  The  other  half  is  to  organize  them  upon  such  a  basis 
that  they  will  be  prosperous,  contented,  and  an  inspiration  to  similar 
movements  hereafter. 

To  accomplish  this,  the  methods  of  the  successful  settlements  re- 
ferred to  must  be  imitated  still  further.  But  is  it  possible  to  com- 
mand for  this  business  undertaking  the  spirit  and  the  leadership 
which  created  these  notable  communities  during  the  past  fifty  years  ? 
Yes,  in  my  opinion,  we  can  not  only  equal,  but  surpass,  anything  yet 
done  in  this  line.  To  a  certain  extent,  we  can  begin  where  the 
others  leave  off.  We  can  avail  ourselves  of  advantages  which 
did  not  exist  twenty-five  or  fifty  years  ago.  We  can  found  a 
system  of  colonization  that  will  go  on  widening  the  sphere  of  its 
operations  and  bearing  larger  and  richer  fruit  long  after  we  shall 
have  passed  from  the  scene.  When  we  have  made  one  thoroughly 
successful  colony  by  methods  capable  of  general  application  the 
problem  is  solved.    How  shall  we  make  it  ? 

I. 

THRKB  KINDS  OP  SBTTl,KRS. 

There  are  three  distinct  classes  of  settlers  who  will  enter  into  the 
making  of  every  well-organized  colony.    They  are  as  follows: 

First,  those  possessing  sufficient  capital  to  purchase  land,  make 
improvements  and  sustain  themselves  until  the  land  comes  into 
bearing.    This  would  mean  a  capital  of  $2,000  and  upwards. 

Second,  non-resident  buyers  now  in  receipt  of  assured  incomes 
elsewhere — people  who  do  not  desire  to  move  at  present,  but  will 
come  later  when  their  places  are  ready  to  support  them. 

Third,  those  who  possess  insufficient  capital  and  can  only  make 
homes  by  borrowing  money  and  then  working  for  wages  while  their 
places  are  being  improved.  Some  of  this  class  have  a  part  of  the 
capital  required,  while  others  possess  only  enough  to  bring  their 
families  and  household  goods  to  the  colony. 

For  convenience,  these  three  classes  will  be  referred  to  as  Inde- 
pendents, Non-residents  and  Borrowers,  respectively.  The  ideal 
colony  plan  must  offer  to  all  these  classes  the  opportunity  to  live,  to 
labor,  and  to  make  homes.  And  under  good  plans,  each  will  be  a 
source  of  strength  to  the  community.  I  have  addressed  many  colony 
meetings  in  the  Bast  and  corresponded  with  thousands  of  people  who 


384  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

wanted  to  get  homes  in  the  West.  I  have  always  found  each  of 
these  elements  in  evidence.  I  believe  we  can  handle  them  all,  and 
that,  if  we  do  not,  we  shall  fall  short  of  solving  the  problem  of  bring, 
ing  the  surplus  man  to  the  surplus  land. 

n. 

WHAT  IS  A  SANK  COI/>NT  PX«AN  7 

If  we  make  out  of  hand  just  such  a  colony  as  we  consider  best  for 
California,  and  best  for  the  surplus  population  of  the  Bast,  what 
will  that  colony  be  ?  What  will  be  its  industrial  character  ?  What 
its  social  and  civic  institutions  ?  How  will  it  be  governed  7  In  an- 
swering these  questions,  we  must  not  forget  that  we  have  before  us, 
in  Colorado,  Utah  and  Southern  California,  several  very  successful 
communities  from  which  we  can  learn  valuable  lessons.  Neither 
must  we  forget  that  every  attempt  to  realize  the  communistic  ideal 
has  failed,  and  that  nearly  every  successful  undertaking  has  been 
dominated  during  its  early  days  by  strong  men  who  possessed  large 
authority.    My  view  is  this  : 

Farms  are  small — five,  ten  or  twenty  acres,  with  not  over  forty  for 
the  maximum.  It  is  a  mistake  for  men  of  small  means  to  attempt 
the  improvement  of  large  areas,  especially  under  irrigation.  Fur- 
thermore, high  social  advantages  are  closely  related  to  the  small 
farm-unit. 

The  most  diversified  production  is  encouraged.  The  ideal  arrange- 
ment is  to  have  each  family  produce  the  variety  of  things  it 
consumes. 

Supplies  are  purchased  and  products  sold  in  common,  so  far  as 
possible.  The  cooperative  store,  affiliated  with  the  Rochdale  Whole- 
sale in  San  Francisco,  supplies  the  means  for  purchasing ;  the  various 
fruit  exchanges  supply  a  considerable  part  of  the  means  for  selling, 
but  require  to  be  supplemented  with  numerous  small  local  industries, 
such  as  creameries,  canneries,  and  pork-packeries. 

Under  these  industrial  plans  each  man  possesses  his  own  farm  and 
thrives  in  proportion  to  his  industry,  thrift  and  ability.  But  none  of 
the  settlers  are  exploited  by  storekeepers,  commission-houses,  or 
combinations  controlling  the  various  industries  which  utilize  the 
raw  materials  produced  by  the  farmer.  This  is  not  Socialism.  It  is 
business  common-sense,  and  the  logical  fruit  of  our  modem  economic 
conditions. 

On  the  social  side,  the  aim  is  to  combine,  as!  far  as  possible,  the 
advantages  arising  from  neighborhood  association  with  the  inde- 
pendence which  comes  from  tilling  the  soil.  To  this  end  it  is  desira- 
ble, that  many,  if  not  most,  of  the  settlers  have  their  homes  in  a 
central  village  on  lots  of  generous  size.  E/xperience  in  many  West- 
em  communities  has  proven  that  this  is  feasible.  Centuries  of  expe- 
rience in  Europe  prove  the  same  thing.  And  you  will  never  turn  the 
tide  from  the  cities  to  the  country  until  you  find  a  way  to  satisfy 
that  social  instinct  which  is  one  of  the  strongest  traits  in  human 
nature. 


n 


386  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

The  villag^e  community  enjoys  many  facilities  entirely  beyond  the 
reach  of  ordinary  farmers.  They  have  a  common  system  of  domestic 
water  supply,  which  is  cheaper  and  more  satisfactory  than  individual 
wells.  They  light  their  houses  with  electricity,  enjoy  good  streets, 
sidewalks  and  parks,  and  have  a  public  building  which  includes 
auditorium,  library,  and  club-rooms  for  both  men  and  women. 
Furthermore,  the  presence  of  such  a  population,  living  in  the  midst 
of  such  advantages,  must  in  time  create  values  for  town  property 
which  will  enrich  the  community.  If  Horace  Greeley's  wise  plan  be 
adopted,  as  in  the  case  of  his  famous  Colorado  settlement,  profits 
from  this  source  will  be  available  for  public  improvements. 

The  government  ?  There  is  nothing  better  for  small  communities 
than  the  New  England  town  meeting,  but  it  cannot  be  safely  trusted 
with  the  powers  of  administration  until  the  community  is  well 
established  and  past  the  dangers  sure  to  surround  its  pathway  during 
the  first  few  years.  Until  the  lands  are  all  sold,  until  the  farms  have 
become  self-sustaining,  and  until  the  community  indebtedness  is 
wiped  out  or  perfectly  secured,  the  founders  of  the  colony  retain 
absolute  control  of  its  affairs.  This  authority  is  exercised  by  a 
single  individual — the  executive  selected  by  the  founders.  Those 
who  cannot  agree  to  this  plan  are  not  invited  to  join.  Long  and 
bitter  experience  has  shown  that  it  is  for  the  best  interests  of  the 
settlers  themselves  that  superior  ability  should  be  in  a  position  of 
secure  control  during  the  formative  period  at  least.  The  town  meet- 
ing rules  in  New  England  to-day,  but  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Com- 
pany was  all-powerful  until  communities  were  thoroughly  established. 

Such  a  colony  plan  as  this  meets  the  industrial  and  social  needs  of 

the  time.    Thousands  will  gladly  join  it  if  they  have  confidence  in 

its  management.    None  of  its  principles  are  untried.     Some  of  them 

have  l)een  demonstrated  at  Greeley,  others  in  Utah,  still  others  in 

Southern  California. 

in. 

THE  PLAN  IN  OPERATION. 

How  can  such  a  plan  be  practically  realized  by  the  associated  land 
interests  of  California  ?  The  question  can  t>e  answered  here  only 
in  the  briefest  way. 

Let  them  select  a  tract  of,  say,  15,500  acres  where  all  conditions  of 
soil,  water,  transportation,  and  markets  are  favorable.  Let  this 
tract  be  subdivided  and  set  apart  as  follows  :  For  townsite,  500  acres; 
for  Independent  settlers,  6,000  acres  ;  for  Non-residents,  6,000  acres  ; 
for  Borrowers,  3,000  acres. 

The  Independents  buy  their  land  and  pay  for  it  like  ordinary  set- 
tlers.    This  feature  requires  no  explanation. 

The  Non-residents  pay  for  their  land  on  installments  extending 
over,  say,  four  years.  The  price  they  pay  includes  improvements, 
such  as  clearing,  plowing,  fencing,  planting,  and  care  of  crops  until 
they  reach  maturity.  It  would  be  feasible  to  extend  improvements 
to  building  a  house  and  barn,  which  would  increase  the  purchase 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST. 


SWEHTWATER   DaM,  BAN   DiHOO  COUHtV.  CaL. 

price  in  proportion.  But  aside  from  house  and  barn  it  is  probable 
that  about  $30  per  acre  will  have  to  be  expended  in  improvements 
and  care  to  bring  the  place  to  maturity  by  the  time  inHtallment  pay- 
ments are  completed.  That  is  to  say,  a  total  of  1180,000  will  be  col- 
lected  for  the   improvement   of  the  6,000  acres  set  apart  for  Non- 


B  Hbmbt  Dam,  KrvBiisniE  Couktv,  C&l. 


388  LAND    OF    SUNSH/NE. 

residents.  Almost  the  entire  sum  will  be  paid  out  for  labor  of  men 
and  teams. 

There  has  been  reserved  for  borrowers  3,000  acres,  which  will  ac- 
commodate 150  families  on  20-acre  farms.  These  Borrowers  reach 
the  colony  with  little  capital — possibly  with  none  to  speak  of.  They 
require  a  loan  of,  say,  $1,000  each,  or  a  total  of  $150,000.  This  is 
sufficient  to  pay  for  their  land  and  interest  in  colony  property,  on  the 
basis  of  $20*  an  acre  for  the  one  and  $10  a  share  for  the  other  ;  to 
provide  shelter  ;  to  grade  and  fence  land ;  to  buy  seed  and  nursery 
stock,  team,  implements,  poultry,  and  one  or  two  cows.  These  thing's 
constitute  the  foundation  of  a  home  and  future  independence.  They 
leave  no  marg'in  for  the  support  of  the  Borrowers  while  their  lands 
are  coming  into  bearing.  How  is  this  support  to  be  provided  ?  From 
the  proceeds  arising  from  the  labor  of  this  class  of  settlers.  They 
will  be  employed  a  large  part  of  the  time  in  improving  the  lands  of 
the  Non-residents,  for  which  $180,000  will  he  paid,  chiefly  for  labor. 
They  will  also  he  employed  in  improving  townsite,  erecting  public 
buildings  and  industries,  and  creating  public  utilities,  such  as  the 
system  for  domestic  water  supply.  Not  less  than  $100,000  will  have 
to  be  expended  in  these  ways.  Of  this  amount  at  least  75  per  cent 
will  go  to  labor.  Adding  this  $75,000  to  the  sum  of  $180,000,  to  be 
paid  by  Non-residents,  makes  a  total  of  $255,000  available  for  the 
employment  of  the  Borrowers.  Spread  this  over  four  years  and  it 
amounts  to  $63,750  per  year.  Dividing  this  by  150  families  gives 
$450  per  year  for  each  family.  At  the  end  of  four  years  the  Borrowers 
will  be  self-sustaining.     Many  will  be  earlier. 

The  colony  requires  a  capital  of  $250,000,  to  be  expended  about  as 
follows : 

Loans  to  settlers $150,000 

Townsite  improvements 25,000 

Industrial  plants 35,000 

Liffht  and  water  plants 2S»000 

Working-  capital,  stores,  industries,  etc ZS,000 

$250,000 

The  proper  expenditure  of  this  fund  will  create  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  colony  centers  that  ever  blossomed  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 
It  will  have  all  the  improvements  of  the  best  modern  town,  together 
with  commercial  machinery  for  the  purchase  of  supplies  and  sale  of 
products  on  the  best  possible  terms. 

•*  Yes,"  says  the  reader,  "but  where  is  the  $250,000  coming  from  ?" 
The  founders — in  this  case,  the  associated  land  interests — ^incorporate 
a  local  colony  company,  with  15,000  shares  (one  for  each  acre  of  agri- 
cultural land)  having  a  par  value  of  $10  each.  Each  colonist  is  re- 
quired to  purchase  as  many  shares  as  he  does  acres.    This  is  equiva- 

*  The  richest  land  and  best  water  supply  in  California  (on  the  Colorado  Delta) 
may  be  had  for  $20  per  acre.  Some  of  the  finest  lands  under  the  Turlock  system,  in 
Stanislaus  county,  and  some  of  the  best  in  Glenn  county,  are  offered  at  this  price. 
When  hiffher  priced  lands  are  to  be  sold  the  Borrowers  must  possess  some  capital 
of  their  own, or  borrow  more  money  from  the  fund,  or  defer  some  of  their  purchases 
of  implements  and  live-stock  until  they  have  saved  money  from  their  waffes.  Aside 
from  some  spare  time  of  their  own,  they  can  count  on  the  assistance  of  their  familieA 
in  improvinir  their  places,  or  upon  income  earned  by  their  family  in  other  work. 


390  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

lent  to  adding  $10  an  acre  to  the  price  of  the  land,  all  of  which  ^oes 
to  the  colony  itself.  The  sum  of  $150,000  thus  realized  is  placed  in  a 
sinking*  fund  for  the  payment  of  bonds.  A  bond  issue  is  necessary, 
because  the  entire  amount  of  $250,000  must  be  available  at  the  be- 
ginning, while  income  from  sale  of  colony  shares  and  from  other 
sources  will  be  realized  gradually  after  improvements  are  made. 
Thus  the  colony  company  must  borrow  $250,000  at  its  inception. 
This  will  be  secured  upon  the  following  property,  to  be  transferred 
to  a  trustee : 

1.    Three  tfaonaaad  acres  of  land,  to  be  improTed  in  small  dirersified  famA  bj 
BorrowcfH. 
Z    TownHite  with  its  manj'  valnable  improvements. 

3.  Industrial  plants,  snch  as  cannery,  creamery,  pork-packery,  rrist-mill,  etc. 

4.  I#ocal  pnblic  works,  snch  as  electric  Ilrhts  and  domestic  water  plants. 
Bonds  to  ran  20  years,  with  option  of  payment  after  five  years;  interest  foor  or 

five  per  cent. 

Interest  on  bonds  is  $12,500  per  annum.  Of  this  sum,  17,500  (beinir  the  interest  on 
$150,000)  is  paid  by  Borrowers  and  deducted  from  their  waffes.  The  balance  comeK 
from  profits  of  store  and  industries  and  earnings  of  sinking*  fund. 

The  sinkinir  fnnd  will  be  provided  as  follows: 

1.  By  repayment  of  $150,000  by  Borrowers. 

2.  By  sale  of  12.000  colony  shares  at  $10  each  to  Independents  and  Non-residents. 

3.  By  sale  of  town  property. 

The  assured  receipts  from  the  first  two  items  complete  the  sinking- 
fund  and  leave  a  balance  of  $20,000.  But  the  income  from  sale  of 
town  property  will  also  make  a  large  item,  possibly  sufficient,  under 
favorable  circumstances,  to  alone  retire  the  bonds.  This  done,  the 
colony  owns  free  and  clear  property  in  the  shape  of  industries,  stock 
on  hand,  public  buildings  and  works,  which  alone  makes  its  capitali- 
zation of  $150,000  full  paid. 

Very  likely  the  reader  will  say  now:  "  This  is  feasible  enough  pro- 
vided (1 )  that  you  can  sell  the  bonds  promptly  at  par ;  and  (2)  that 
you  are  able  to  secure  good  business  management.'' 

Very  likely  the  bonds  can  be  disposed  of  at  home.  Some  of  the 
strongest  influences  in  the  State,  including  banking  interests,  will 
be  concerned  in  the  project.  But  that  the  bonds  can  be  disposed  of 
in  the  Kast,  to  moneyed  men  who  are  profoundly  interested  in  open- 
ing outlets  for  surplus  population,  I  know.  They  would  not  hesitate 
a  moment  if  they  could  deal  with  such  a  body  of  landowners  as  that 
projected  in  the  October  number  of  this  magazine.  As  to  manage- 
ment, it  has  already  been  said  that  this  rests  absolutely  with  the 
founders  for  the  first  five  years.  They  select  a  man  of  ability,  tact, 
and  practical  experience,  and  give  him  full  power.  Ultimately  the 
power  will  rest  with  the  stockholders  of  the  colony,  but  during  the 
formative  period  they  agree  that  it  shall  be  exercised  exclusively  by 
the  founders  through  the  executive  they  name. 

There  are  many  other  details  which  cannot  be  given  in  the  space 
now  available,  but  reasonable  inquiries  will  be  cheerfully  answered 
hereafter. 

IV. 
CI«OSING   RBFr«KCTIONS. 

In  the  debate  which  followed  the  submission  of  this  plan  to  a 
public  meeting  at  Sacramento  last  January  a  prominent  citizen  de- 
clared that  such  a  proposition  could  never  be  realized  in  California. 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  391 

He  admitted  that  its  most  important  features  had  been  carried  out 
elsewhere,  particularly  in  Utah,  but  said :  **  We  have  no  Mormon 
Church,  and  you  cannot  make  a  success  of  any  plan  of  cooperative 
settlement  without  it." 

Well,  where  does  this  leave  us  ?  It  is  admitted  that  we  are  not 
colonizing*  California  successfully  today — that  banks  and  landowners 
are  groaning-  under  the  burden  of  great  holding^  which  they  would 
sell  if  they  could  find  customers.  Shall  we  give  up  the  effort  to  settle 
the  fertile  land  of  this  great  State  ?  If  not,  shall  we  turn  the  task 
over  to  the  Mormon  Church  ?  There  is  no  other  alternative,  unless 
we  have  the  g-enius  to  devise  new  methods  to  take  the  place  of  those 
which  have  failed. 

I  believe  there  is  no  single  feature  of  the  proposed  union  of  active 
land  interests,  or  of  the  suggested  method  of  getting  settlers,  that 
is  not  practical  and  sensible.  I  believe  the  industrial  and  social  in- 
stitutions outlined  in  this  article  can  be  justified  equally  upon  com- 
mercial, economic,  and  ethical  grounds.  So  believing,  it  was  a  joy 
for  me  to  plead  for  these  ideas  against  the  criticism  of  some  of  the 
strongest  men  in  California  when  the  matter  was  discussed  at  Sacra- 
mento. And  it  is  a  joy  for  me  now,  after  the  lapse  of  the  better 
part  of  a  year,  to  repeat  the  proposal  with  renewed  emphasis.  If 
private  parties  are  ever  to  sell  their  lands  and  build  colonies  fit  to 
live,  I  believe  it  must  be  by  some  such  method  as  has  been  pre- 
sented in  these  three  papers. 

But  is  it  necessary  to  leave  the  destinies  of  California  to  be  worked 
out  by  private  enterprise  ?  May  it  not  be  true,  after  all,  that  coloni- 
zation is  a  function  of  government  ?  The  answer  to  that  question 
leads  us  to  New  Zealand.  And  of  New  Zealand  we  shall  see  much 
in  these  pages  during  the  coming  year. 


The  Perils  of  Water  Monopoly. 

VIEWED    IN    THE   LIGHT   OF   THE  WORLD'S  EXPERIENCE. 

tiff  FILED  on  this  water  ^  and  it  is  mine  to  do  with  as  I  please. 
I  /  can  run  it  into  a  gopher  hole  if  I  want  to,  I  can  sell  it,  of 
JL  rent  it  to  my  neighbors,  or  I  can  waste  it  in  the  sand,  and 
neither  the  Government  nor  State  has  any  right  to  object,** 

Expressed  with  brutal  frankness,  that  is  the  prevailing  theory  of 
water  ownership  in  California  and  several  other  Western  States. 
The  remark  is  quoted  from  Elwood  Mead's  introduction  to  the  report 
on  **  Irrigation  Investigations  in  California.**  It  is  credited  to  **an 
intelligent  and  fair-minded  ditch  owner,'*  and  Mr.  Mead  says  there 
is  not  the  slightest  doubt  that  it  expresses  the  commonly-accepted 
opinion  about  the  ownership  of  water  in  this  State. 

This  being  so,  the  people  of  California  are  standing  face  to  face 
with  the  problem  of  water  monopoly.  It  is  the  most  dangerous  in- 
fluence which  could  enter  into  the  economic  life  of  this  State,  and  of 
the  other  States  which  look  to  California  for  leadership.  It  is  infin- 
itely more  perilous  than  railroad  monopoly,  because  it  is  always  a 
physical  possibility  to  parallel  one  iron  highway  with  another.  But 
the  stream  which  furnishes  the  only  source  of  water  supply  cannot 
be  paralleled.     The  reservoir  occupying  the  strategic  position  in  re- 


392  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

Ration  to  a  given  watershed  cannot  be  duplicated.  Bven  with  the 
fairest  and  most  economical  use  of  water  resources  of  every  kind, 
from  flowing"  stream,  from  storage,  and  from  wells,  we  shall  always 
have  more  land  than  water  with  which  to  irrigate  it.  Hence  the 
ownership  of  this  precious  element  is  more  vital  to  our  civilization 
than  any  other  question  with  which  science  and  statesmanship  has  to 
deal. 

The  water  monopoly  in  California  is  now  protected  by  two  stout 
bulwarks,  both  of  which  must  be  destroyed  before  the  State  can  be- 
gin the  wise  use  of  its  natural  resources  and  broaden  the  foundation 
of  its  industrial  life  to  accommodate  many  millions  of  new  popula- 
tion. The  first  of  these  bulwarks  is  the  riparian  doctrine,  which  de- 
clares that  water  must  always  flow  in  its  original  channel  in  un- 
diminished quantity.  The  second  bulwark  is  the  doctrine  that  water 
belongs  to  the  man  who  appropriates  it  by  posting  a  notice  on  the 
bank  of  a  stream,  flling  a  copy  of  it  in  the  county  records,  and  pro- 
ceeding to  build  a  canal. 

In  the  flrst  case  the  water  belongs  absolutely  to  the  persons  owning 
land  along  the  banks  of  the  streams.  In  the  second  case  the  owner- 
ship is  vested  in  the  appropriator,  who  may  then  proceed  to  sell  his 
property  to  those  who  require  it  as  the  most  important  means  of  their 
existence.  There  never  were  two  ideas  more  utterly  inconsistent 
than  these  doctrines  of  riparian  proprietorship  and  appropriation. 
One  says  the  water  shall  not  be  taken  from  the  stream  ;  the  other 
says  it  may  be  taken  under  certain  vagtie  conditions  for  which  no 
means  of  enforcement  are  provided,  save  litigation  in  the  courts. 
But  though  it  would  seem  impossible  that  the  two  doctrines  could 
exist  side  by  side,  it  is  nevertheless  true  that  they  do  exist  under  the 
illogical  laws  and  conflicting  judicial  decisions  of  California,  and 
that  both  of  them  assist  in  the  creation  and  protection  of  the  water 
monopoly. 

No  topic  which  came  within  the  range  of  the  government's  investi- 
gation was  more  important,  and  none  was  more  luminously  treated 
by  Elwood  Mead  and  the  board  of  experts  who  worked  under  his 
direction.  In  presenting  their  conclusions  to  the  California  public  it 
is  eminently  desirable  that  the  matter  should  be  put  in  the  broadest 
possible  way.  Our  people  should  understand  not  only  that  these 
patient,  skilled,  and  unprejudiced  investigators  condemned  the 
riparian  doctrine,  the  private  ownership  of  water  apart  from  the 
land,  and  the  monopoly  which  they  beget  and  sustain,  but  that  the 
experience  of  the  wide  world  through  all  the  ages  is  arrayed  upon 
the  same  side  of  the  question.  You  may  pooh-pooh  the  conclusions 
of  nine  experts,  even  though  they  be  unanimous,  and  even  though 
they  represent  the  Government  of  the  United  States.  But  you  can- 
not thus  easily  dispose  of  the  solemn  warnings  conveyed  in  the  ex- 
pressions of  eminent  men  in  all  countries  and  illustrated  in  the  laws 
and  experience  of  various  lands  which  dealt  with  irrigation  long 
before  the  flrst  ditch  was  made  in  California. 

A   DEADI<Y  PARAI^I^EI*  FROM   SPAIN. 

Mr.  Mead  says  in  his  introduction  : 

"The  Europsan  couatry  which  most  nearly  resembles  Califoraia  is  Southern 
Spain.  The  rainfall  is  less,  so  that  irrigation  is  indispensable.  Spanish  water  law4 
are  the  outcome  of  a  thousand  years*  experience,  in  which  local  customs  widely 
dififerent  in  character  have  long*  operated  side  by  side  in  different  districts  of  the 
same  province.  There  has  been  time  enouirh  to  work  out  to  a  final  result  the  influ- 
ence of  different  doctrines  of  water  ownership.  In  Valencia,  the  moAt  beautiful  and 
pro4p3rous  irriflrated  section  of  Spain,  the  works  date  back  to  the  Moors.  Water 
riirhts  are  founded  on  customs  which  are  older  than  records.  Water  and  land  are 
inseparable.  Every  writer  who  has  studied  the  subject  is  of  the  opinion  that  the 
thrift,  the  skill,  and  succss;)  shown  by  farmers  com^s  from  the  p^ace  aud  security 
which  (foes  with  the  control  of  both  elem::nis  of  production.  In  the  same  province 
the  results  of  the  separate  ownership  of  water  and  land  are  as  completely  minifest. 
In  the  district  of  Elche  water  was  oriirinally  controlled  by  the  Ian  1  >  .vaers,  but  Ian  d 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  393 

and  water  were  not  made  inseparable.  Gradually  water  risrhts  were  botiflrht  up  by 
oQtsiders.  Now  the  farmer  buys  water  from  these  owners  of  streams  just  as  he 
does  fertilizers.  The  water  tolls  have  been  raised,  farmers  impoverished,  and  all 
progress  and  prosi>erity  banished.  In  the  province  of  Mercia  water  is  attached  to 
the  land  and  farmers  are  prosperous.  In  Lorca  land  and  water  are  separated,  and 
the  result,  says  a  recent  report,  is  *  larire  profits  for  the  water  owner,  poor  farmers, 
and  lanfTuishinfiT  auriculture/  " 

Here  we  have  an  experience  arrayed  in  a  sort  of  **  deadly  parallel 
column."  Where  the  ownership  of  water  and  land  was  combined 
there  was  abiding  prosperity,  but  where  water  was  owned  apart  from 
the  land  and  permitted  to  become  a  private  monopoly  there  was  hard- 
ship, loss  and  decay.  Must  California  proceed  under  the  latter 
policy,  which  was  adopted  in  ignorance  of  our  conditions  and  of  the 
true  philosophy  of  the  subject  ?    God  forbid  ! 

OTHBR    BUROPBAN   BXAMPLBS. 

G.  P.  Marsh,  long  a  United  States  Consul  in  Italy,  says  : 

'*  European  experience  shows  that  where  waters  belonc-infr  to  the  State  are 
farmed  and  relet  by  private  individuals  water  rights  are  a  constant  source  of  g-ross 
injustice  and  endless  litifration.  The  consequence  of  these  interminable  vexations 
is  that  the  poorer  or  more  peaceably  disposed  landholder  is  oblifred  to  sell  his  pos- 
sessions to  a  richer  or  more  liticrous  proprietor,  and  the  whole  district  gradually 
passes  into  the  hands  of  a  single  holder." 

That  is  to  say,  the  man  who  owns  the  water  practically  owns  the 
land  and  he  oppresses  and  harries  his  neighbors  until  he  finally  be- 
comes the  actual  owner  of  the  land  which  the  water  controls.  Already 
groaning  under  the  incubus  of  great  estates,  must  we  sit  still  and  see 
the  mills  of  the  gods  grind  out  another  grist  of  the  sort  by  the  re- 
morseless operation  of  our  water  monopoly  ? 

The  Royal  Commission  on  Water  Supply,  appointed  by  the  Govern- 
ment of  Victoria,  in  Australia,  studied  water  history  in  three  coun- 
tries of  Europe  with  this  result : 

**  Italian  experience,  French  experience,  and  Spanish  experience  all  ffo  to  show 
that  the  interests  to  be  studied  in  relation  to  irrig-ation  schemes  are  so  many  and  so 
various,  and  so  intimately  bound  up  with  the  public  welfare,  that  State  control  is 
imperatively  necessary,  and  that  for  the  protection  of  its  citizens  no  monopoly  can 
be  permitted  which  would  separate  property  in  water  from  property  in  the  land  to 
which  it  is  applied." 

Baird  Smith,  in  his  History  of  Irrigation  in  Italy,  speaking  of 
water  monopoly,  says: 

**  There  is  no  point  better  established  by  exp?rience  in  Northern  Italy  irenerally, 
and  in  Lombardy  particularly,  than  this— That  the  selfishness  of  irrantees  in  per- 
petuity of  water  has  been  one  of  the  most  serious  obstacles  to  the  development  of 
irriiration.  Actiniron  the  principle  that  they  had  a  right  to  do  what  they  liked  with 
their  own,  they  were  in  the  habit  of  suspending  arbitrarily  the  supplies  of  water 
disposed  of  by  them  to  other  parties  under  subordinate  grants,  of  increasing*  as  they 
thouffht  iit  the  prices  to  be  paid,  and,  in  a  word,  of  pushing  to  its  utmost  limits  the 
right  of  absolute  property  purchased  by  them  from  the  State.  But  an  ag'ricultnre 
founded  on  artificial  irrigation  cannot  advance  as  it  oug'ht  to  do  under  such  an 
arbitrary  system." 

In  California  ** the  right  of  absolute  property"  is  not  "purchased 
from  the  State."  What  would  the  Italians  think  of  a  system  which 
does  not  even  pay  that  little  tribute  to  the  public  rights,  but  which 
acquires  this  valuable  property  by  putting  up  a  notice  on  a  tree  and 
filing  a  copy  of  it  in  the  county  records  ?  Kven  when  the  State  re- 
ceived a  cash  payment  from  those  who  were  to  enjoy  a  monopoly  of 
the  stream  the  system  proved  intolerable  in  Italy.  But  in  California 
there  is  not  even  that  mitigating  circumstance.  You  merely  **  filed 
on  this  water,"  and  proceeded  to  **  run  it  into  a  gopher  hole,  sell  it, 
rent  it,  or  waste  it  in  the  sand."  So  that  the  Italian  method  at  its 
worst  was  never  to  be  compared  with  the  utter  imbecility  of  the  way 
we  do  things  in  California. 

*      IN  THB  BNGI«ISH  COI^ONIBS. 

The  riparian  doctrine  came  from  England  with  the  rest  of  the 
common  law.  But  when  Englishmen  find  themselves  face  to  face 
with  the  conditions  of  aridity  the^'  do  not  adhsre  to  this  theory  of 


394  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

water  control.  They  have  wisdom  enough  to  see  that  what  is  a  very 
g-ood  law  in  one  place  may  be  a  very  bad  law  in  another  place — ^that 
while  in  a  country  where  water  is  so  abundant  as  to  be  almost  a  nui- 
sance it  is  well  to  insist  that  the  stream  shall  flow  within  its  ancient 
banks,  it  is  equally  well  in  a  land  where  human  existence  depends 
upon  artificial  irrigation  that  the  water  should  be  taken  from  its 
channel  and  distributed  as  widely  and  as  fairly  as  possible.  In 
colonizing  Western  Canada  and  Australia  it  was  found  that  condi- 
tions similar  to  those  of  California  must  be  dealt  with.  The  states- 
man to  whom  this  problem  fell  sent  commissions  throughout  the- 
world  to  learn  from  the  experience  of  others.  They  thought  it  might 
be  well  to  look  t)efore  they  leaped,  instead  of  leaping  first  and  look- 
ing afterwards,  as  we  are  now  doing  in  California.  The  result  is 
seen  in  this  suggestion,  which  the  Canadian  commissioner  put  first 
in  his  list  of  recommendations : 

**  First.  The  total  suppression  of  all  riparian  riff'hts  in  water,  so  that  the  same, 
being-  vested  in  the  Crown,  may  be  distributed  under  well-considered  ipovernment 
control  for  the  benefit  of  the  srreatest  possible  number.** 

For  the  benefit  of  the  greatest  possible  number!  And  it  was 
quickly  determined  that  nothing  which,  under  the  widest  stretch  of 
the  imagination,  could  furnish  a  footing  for  water  monopoly  would 
be  for  the  benefit  of  the  greatest  possible  number.  They  proceeded 
to  make  laws  much  like  those  of  Wyoming,  governing  the  appro- 
priation and  distribution  of  water  under  the  control  of  the  State. 

Very  similar  action  was  taken  by  the  Australian  Colonies  of  Vic- 
toria and  New  South  Wales.  Riparian  rights  were  abolished,  as 
they  have  been  abolished  in  Colorado,  Wyoming,  Montana,  Idaho, 
Utah,  Nevada,  Arizona,  and  New  Mexico,  and  as  they  were  not  per- 
mitted to  exist  in  France,  Spain,  Italy,  Kgypt,  and  India.  And  in 
Australia,  as  in  Canada,  the  most  orderly  methods  for  handling  the 
water  supply  were  adopted  and  enforced  by  the  State.  These 
English  Colonies  took  up  irrigation  much  later  than  California. 
They  might  be  supposed  to  have  at  least  as  much  reverence  for  the 
institutions  of  their  native  land  as  the  cosmopolitan  population  who 
framed  our  laws  and  shaped  our  judicial  decisions.  And  yet  they 
did  not  hesitate  to  unload  the  English  riparian  law  and  to  declare 
that  the  public  interest  must  ever  be  regarded  as  paramount  in  the 
water  supply.  Many  pages  could  be  filled  with  quotations  from  the 
reports  of  these  colonial  commissioners,  but  these  would  only  go  to 
confirm  what  has  already  been  quoted  from  world-wide  authorities. 

VIEWS  OF  THE  CAUFORNIA  BXPERTS. 

The  experts  who  studied  the  typical  streams  of  California  are  all 
of  one  mind  on  the  subject.  But  a  few  brief  quotations  will  be  of 
interest. 

Marsdon  Manson  said  : 

**  Riparian  riffhts  have  prevented  and  retarded  irrigation  development.  If  pos- 
sible, the  riparian  rifirht  should  be  restricted  to  low-water  discharg-e  of  streams, 
and  this  discharge  determined  by  proper  authority.** 

J.  M.  Wilson  said : 

"  The  limits  of  the  riparian  rig-hts  must  be  more  clearly  defined.  As  the  matter 
now  stands,  it  may  mean  anything-.  In  departing-  from  the  broad  principle  that 
couns  should  be  governed  in  their  interpretation  of  law  by  the  natural  conditions 
and  necessities  arrowing  out  of  the  environment  of  the  people  who  make  the  courts, 
we  have  been  led  into  a  mass  of  hopeless  absurdities." 

Prof.  Marx  said : 

**  The  doctrine  of  riparian  risrhts  has  been  harmful  to  irrigation  development, 
and  the  California  riparian  law  should  be  repealed/* 

Prof.  Soul^  said : 

**  The  doctrine  of  riparian  rights  has  exerted  a  most  injurious  infiuence  on  irri- 
gation affairs.  It  has  been  the  prolific  source  of  litigation  ;  has  g^reatly  interfered 
with  and  even  debarred  irrig-ation  enterprises.*" 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  395 

C.  B.  Grunsky  said  : 

"  The  extent  and  the  priority  of  established  rig-hts  to  water  and  to  the  use  of 
water  should  be  ascertained  and  clearly  defined,  and  the  necessary  water  should  be 
allotted  to  riparian  owners  and  to  appropriators  in  accordance  with  their  needs  and 
their  rights." 

E.  M.  Bog^gs  said  : 

**  Riparian  rights  should  be  made  subordinate  in  all  respects  to  rights  of  appro- 
priation." 

James  D.  Schuyler  said  : 

"The  application  of  the  English  common  law  doctrine  of  riparian  rights  to  any 
of  the  streams  of  Arid  America  is  an  absurdity  and  a  misfortune  which  most 
Western  States  and  Territories,  except  California,  have  avoided.  Always  illogical 
and  inapplicable  in  a  dry  country  where  irrig-ation  is  required,  it  is  particularly  so 
when  applied  to  streams  of  an  intermittent  character  which  cannot  be  utilized  with- 
out storage  reservoirs.  The  attempt  to  interfere  with  works  of  public  necessity  and 
importance  by  the  assertion  of  this  doctrine,  after  the  expenditure  of  large  sums  of 
money,  will  always  be  made  as  long  as  the  pernicious  doctrine  is  adhered  to  in  this 
State." 

These  quotations  from  the  reports  of  the  experts  by  no  means  in- 
dicate the  entire  result  of  their  study  of  the  laws.  In  another  paper 
we  shall  see  the  full  scope  of  their  recommendations  and  how  com- 
pletely they  would  dispose  of  the  water  monopoly  in  this  State.  We 
shall  see  how  this  would  be  accomplished  without  injustice  to  vested 
interests  and  with  great  gain  to  every  element  in  the  community. 

JOHN  W.   POWEI*!*  AND  THBODORB   ROOSEVELT. 

One  of  the  earliest  and  one  of  the  ablest  students  of  irrigation  in 
its  broad  economic  aspects  was  Maj.  John  W.  Powell,  founder  of  the 
Geological  Survey  and  its  Director  under  several  administrations. 
Many  years  ago  he  said  : 

**  If  in  the  eagerness  of  present  development  a  land  afid  water  system  shall  grow 
up  in  which  the  practical  control  of  agriculture  shall  fall  into  the  hands  of  water 
companies,  evils  will  result  therefrom  that  generations  may  not  be  able  to  correct, 
and  the  very  men  who  are  now  lauded  as  benefactors  to  the  country  will,  in  the  un- 
g-overnable  reaction  which  is  sure  to  come,  be  denounced  as  oppressors  of  the 
people. 

*  The  right  to  use  water  should  inhere  in  the  lands  to  be  irrig-ated,  and  water 
rights  should  go  with  land  titles." 

The  evils  which  Maj.  Powell  predicted  have  resulted  because,  as 
he  feared,  '*  practical  control  of  agriculture"  has  fallen  into  hands 
of  water  companies.  The  reaction  has  set  in.  It  is  not  "  ungovern- 
able **  in  the  sense  that  Maj.  Powell  probably  meant  to  indicate,  but 
it  is  earnest  and  determined. 

Finally,  we  have  the  President  of  the  United  States  on  record 
against  the  vast  evil  involved  in  water  monopoly.  In  writing  to  the 
Irrigation  Congress  a  year  ago  he  said  he  favored  public  works  be- 
cause '*  it  is  not  possible,  and,  if  it  were  possible,  U  would  not  be  wise 
to  have  this  storage  work  done  merely  through  private  ownership." 
And  why  not  wise  ?  Because,  as  Theodore  Roosevelt  knows  from  his 
residence  in  the  arid  region,  when  you  permit  one  man  to  own  the 
water  absolutely  essential  to  the  existence  of  others  you  give  him 
dangerous  power  over  the  lives  and  fortunes  of  his  fellowmen. 
Thank  God  there  is  a  man  in  the  White  House  who  knows  that  fact ! 

Water  monopoly  in  California,  and  throughout  Arid  America,  is 
doomed  and  must  soon  pass  away.  In  its  place  will  come  just  and 
equal  laws  which  shall  unite  water  and  land  in  one  ownership,  which 
shall  make  public  authority  paramount,  which  shall  provide  public 
systems  of  administration  over  appropriation  and  distribution  of 
supplies.  These  hopes  cannot  be  realized,  of  course,  until  those  in 
power  shall  understand  the  people's  wishes  and  carry  them  into 
effect.  But  who  chooses  the  men  in  power?  The  people  choose 
them,  and  to  the  people  of  California  the  friends  of  irrigation  reform 
will  take  thoir  cause  with  perfect  confidence  in  a  triumphant  result. 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


Pkov.  C.  D.  Marx. 

WHY  THE  FUTURE  IS  OURS. 

In  considering  the  chances  for  early  success  of  the  movement  for 
chanjfing'  the  legal  basis  of  irrig'ation  in  California,  and  so  laying' 
the  foundation  for  a  stupendous  social  and  economic  development 
during  the  next  decade,  there  is  one  fact  that  shines  out  more 
brightly  than  any  other.  This  is  the  fact  that  our  two  great  Uni- 
versities are  on  the  side  of  Progress  and  Reform.  It  is  worth  some- 
thing to  know  that  the  most  intelligent,  the  most  disinterested,  and, 
therefore,  the  most  patriotic  influences  in  California  are  to  be  with 
us  in  the  impending  struggle.  Whut  is  more,  it  is  a  cheerful  thought 
that  the  future  leaders  of  this  State  are  growing  up  in  institutions 
where  they  will  learn  the  true  basis  of  the  (economic  prosperity  of 
California. 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  397 

Daniel  Webster  wa^  once  interrupted  in  the  midst  of  an  outdoor 
door  si>eech  by  a  noisy  procession  marching;  through  the  streets. 
"  Never  mind  them,"  said  the  presiding  officer  at  his  side,  "they  are 
nothinp  but  boys."  "Yes,"  said  the  orator,  "but  these  boys  will 
soon  be  men."  Those  boys  became  men,  they  ruled  the  destinies  of 
Massachusetts,  and  some  of  them  were  among  the  first  regiments 
Trho  marched  to  battle  to  attack  what  Webster  was  then  apologizing 
for. 

The  boys  of  our  Universities  will  soon  be  men.  They  will  scatter 
to  the  four  corners  of  this  imperial  State,  and  wherever  they  go  they 
will  carry  the  influence  of  a  faculty  that  believes  ia  the  public  con- 
trol of  the  water  supply  and  knows  that  the  extension  of  irrigation, 
under  wise  laws,  is  vital  not  merely  to  the  growth  of  the  common- 
wealth, but  to  the  character  of  its  civilization. 

Two  of  the  strongest  men  on  last  year's  government  Commission, 
which  cooperated  with  the  Water  and  Forest  Association  in  investi- 
gating irrigation  conditions,  were  Prof.  Frank  Soul6  of  Berkeley 
and  Prof.  Charles  D.  Mant  of  Stanford.  Prof.  Soul^  was  assigned 
to  the  San  Joaquin  River,  while  Prof.  Marx  studied  the  Salinas. 
Their  reports  are  of  the  highest  educational  value.  They  illustrate 
a  situation  which  had  hitherto  been  shrouded  in  the  darkness  of  liti- 
gation and  neighborhood  strife.  Bither  of  these  reports,  considered 
by  itself  alone,  will  be  worth  the  cost  of  the  entire  investigation  if 
the  California  public  but  reads  and  heeds  them.  The  San  Joaquin 
Kiver  offered  a  much  better  subject  than  the  Salinas  because  its 
waters  had  been  much  more  generally  used  than  the  latter.  Prof. 
Soul^  made  the  most  of  his  opportunity,  not  even  neglecting  its 
humorous  possibilities.  But  though  irrigation  is  comparatively  new 
in  Monterey  County,  Prof.  Marx  found  that  the  wonderful  irrigation 
laws  of  California  had  managed  to  get  the  people  in  pretty  serious 
trouble  there,  also.  He  arose  from  the  writing  of  his  report  one  of 
the  strongest  and  most  insistent  water  reformers  in  the  State.  If 
the  recommendations  of  these  two  luminous  reports  are  carried  out 
the  beautiful  valleys  traversed  by  the  San  Joaquin  and  Salinas  will 
behold  a  transformation,  and  many  an  acre  now  reserved  for  four- 
footed  beasts  will  be  brightened  with  the  homes  of  men. 

And  it  is  because  such  men  as  Soul£  and  Marx  are  educating  the 
coming  Governors,  lawmakers,  and  farmers  of  California  that  we 
know  the  future  is  destined  to  be  brilliant  with  achievement. 


Santa  Barbara. 

Of  T  ha.s  possibly  been  borne  in  upon  readers  of  this  magazine — 
I  perhaps  on  nearly  every  one  who  knowns  anything  at  all  about 
*  California — that  the  climatic  and  other  conditions  of  the  State 
as  a  whole  are  auch  as  to  make  living  better  worth  whil=  than  any- 
where else  this  side  of  Paradise.  But  even  in  California  there  are 
grades  of  climatic  excellence — from  "better  to  best"— though  the 
precise  grading  of  any  particular  locality,  it  must  be  admitted,  will 
depend  very  largely  on  the  individual  taste  of  the  observer.     In  the 


"  best"  class,  by  general  consent,  Santa  Barljara  must  be  ranked, 
and  not  one  of  those  who  know  and  love  it  best  will  admit  any  lower 
place  for  it  than  the  very  head  of  the  list. 

It  is  unquestionable  that  the  topographic  conditions  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara— and  these  are,  of  course,  most  important  factors  in  modifying 
climate— are  not  precisely  matched  anywhere  else  in  the  State.  The 
general  tread  of  the  coast  line  is  from  northwest  to  southeast.  At 
Point  Concepcion  (about  two-thirds  of  the  distance  from  north  to 
south)  the  line  swerves  sharply  inward,  and  for  about  seventy  miles 
runs  as  nearly  as  possible  due  east,  then  resuming  again  the  south- 
easterly direction.  Parallel  with  the  coast,  and  only  a  few  miles 
distant  from  it — sometimes,  indeed,  sending  foothill  spurs  right 
down  to  the  water's  edge — the  Santa  Ynez  range  of  mountains  rises 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


abruptly  more  than  three  thousand  feet,  forming  a  permanent  bar- 
rier to  the  norhleast  winds.  And  to  complete  the  protection  of  this 
sheltered  spot,  twenty-five  miles  out  to  sea  the  Channel  Islands 
stand  as  a  lofty  barrier  ag-ainat  storms  from  the  west  or  southwest. 
At  a  point  on  this  southerly  shore  where  the  beach  curves  in  a 
crescent  miles  long  and  the  foothills  stand  apart  to  make  room  for  a 
broad  and  gently  sloping  valley,  is  the  city  of  Santa  Barbara.  Shut 
in,  therefore,  on  three  aides  by  mountains  and  hills,  opening  only  to 
the  south  upon  the  sun-wanned  and  qui«t  waters  of  Santa  Barbara 
Channel,  the  climate  of  the  city  is  singularly  uniform  throughout 
the  year.    There  is  no  extreme  heat  in  summer— hardly  even  a  "  hot 


SANTA    BARBARA. 


daj."  The  thermometer  will  hardly  re^ater  90°  three  times  during 
the  year,  and  has  reached  100°  but  tmice  in  a  generation,  influenced 
in  both  cases  by  the  forest  fires  in  the  near-by  mountains.  Extremes 
of  cold  are  even  more  conspicuouBly  absent,  the  freezing  point  (32°) 
having  been  recorded  but  three  times  in  fifteen  years,  and  then  only 
for  a  short  time  just  before  sunrise. 

This  is  not  the  place  for  extended  records  of  temperature,  but  a 
few  striking  atatemenla  of  facts  and  comparisons  must  find  room. 
The  average  monthly  temperature  at  Santa  Barbara  shows  a  range 
of  less  than  fourteen  degrees — from  53°  in  January  to  66.6°  in 
August.  This  is  less  than  the  difference  between  Portland,  Maine  and 


LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 


A  PAHOHAMIC    \ 

abrupt!)'  more  than  three  thousand  feet,  fortntng'  a  permanent  bar- 
rier to  the  norhleast  winds.  And  to  complete  the  protection  of  this 
sheltered  spot,  twenty-five  miles  out  to  sea  the  Channel  Islands 
stand  as  a  loftj  barrier  against  storms  from  the  west  or  southwest. 
At  a  point  on  this  southerly  shore  where  the  beach  curves  in  a 
crescent  miles  long  and  the  foothills  stand  apart  to  make  room  for  a 
broad  and  gently  sloping  vallevi  is  the  city  of  Santa  Bart>ara.  Shut 
in,  therefore,  on  three  sides  by  mountains  and  hills,  opening  only  to 
the  south  upon  the  sun-warmed  and  quiet  waters  of  Santa  Barbara 
Chaanel,  the  climate  of  the  city  is  singularly  uniform  throughout 
the  year.     There  is  no  extreme  heat  in  summer — hardly  even  a  "  hot 


SANTA    BARBARA. 


day."  The  thermometer  will  hardly  register  90°  three  times  during 
the  year,  and  has  reached  100°  but  twice  in  a  g-eneration,  influenced 
in  both  cases  by  the  forest  fires  in  the  near-by  mountains.  Estremea 
of  cold  are  even  more  conspicuously  absent,  the  freezing  point  {32°} 
having  been  recorded  but  three  times  in  fifteen  years,  and  then  only 
for  a  short  time  just  before  sunrise. 

7his  is  not  the  place  for  extended  records  of  temperature,  but  a 
few  striking  statements  of  facts  and  comparisons  must  find  room. 
The  average  monthly  temperature  at  Santa  Barbara  shows  a  range 
of  less  than  fourteen  degrees — from  53°  in  January  to  66.6°  in 
August.  This  is  less  than  the  difference  between  Portland,  Maine  and 


LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 


abrupttj  more  than  three  thousand  feet,  forming'  a  permanent  bar- 
rier to  the  norUteast  Trinda.  And  to  complete  the  protection  of  this 
sheltered  spot,  twenty-five  miles  out  to  sea  the  Channel  Islands 
stand  as  a  lofty  barrier  against  storms  from  the  west  or  southwest. 
At  a  point  on  this  southerly  shore  where  the  beach  curves  in  a 
crescent  mitea  long  and  the  foothills  stand  apart  to  make  room  for  a 
broad  and  gentlj  sloping  valley,  is  the  city  of  Santa  Barbara.  Shu  t 
in,  therefore,  on  three  sides  by  mountains  and  hills,  opening  only  to 
the  south  upon  the  sun-warmed  and  quiet  waters  of  Santa  Barbara 
Channel,  the  climate  of  the  city  is  singularly  uniform  throughout 
the  jrear.    There  ia  no  extreme  heat  in  summer — hardly  even  a  "  hot 


SANTA    BARBARA. 


day."  The  thermometer  will  hardly  register  90°  three  times  during' 
the  year,  and  has  reached  100°  but  twice  in  a  generation,  influenced 
in  both  cases  by  the  forest  fires  in  the  near-by  mountains.  Extremes 
of  cold  are  even  mare  conspicuously  absent,  the  freezing'  point  (33°) 
having  been  recorded  but  three  times  in  fifteen  years,  and  then  only 
for  a  short  time  jnst  before  sunrise. 

This  is  not  the  place  for  extended  records  of  temperature,  but  a 
few  striking  statements  of  facts  and  comparisons  must  find  room. 
The  average  monthly  temperature  at  Santa  Bart>ara  shows  a  range 
of  less  than  fourteen  degrees — from  53°  in  January  to  66,6°  in 
August.  This  is  less  than  thedifference  between  Portland,  Maine  and 


Photo,  by  Newlan. 


LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 


abruptly  more  than  three  thouaaud  feet,  forming  a  permanent  bar- 
rier to  the  norlileast  niads.  And  to  complete  the  protection  of  this 
sheltered  spot,  twenty-iive  miles  out  to  sea  the  Channel  Islands 
stand  as  a  lofty  barrier  against  storms  from  the  west  or  southwest. 
At  a  point  on  this  southerly  shore  where  the  beach  curves  in  a 
crescent  miles  long  and  the  foothills  stand  apart  to  make  room  for  a 
broad  and  gently  sloping  valley,  is  the  city  of  Santa  Barbara.  Shut 
in,  therefore,  on  three  sides  by  mountains  and  hills,  opening  only  to 
the  south  upon  the  sun-warmed  and  quiet  waters  of  Santa  Barbara 
Channel,  the  climate  of  the  city  is  singularly  uniform  throughout 
the  year.    There  is  no  extreme  heat  in  summer — hardly  even  a  "  hot 


SANTA    BARBARA. 


Photo,  oj  Reed. 


day."  The  thermometer  will  hardly  regrister  90°  three  times  during 
the  year,  and  haa  reached  100°  but  twice  in  a  generation,  influenced 
in  both  cases  by  the  forest  tires  in  the  near-by  mountains.  Extremes 
of  cold  are  even  more  conspicuously  absent,  the  freezing  point  (32°) 
having  been  recorded  but  three  times  in  fifteen  years,  and  then  only 
for  a  short  time  just  before  sunrise. 

This  is  not  the  place  for  extended  records  of  temperature,  but  a 
few  striking  statements  of  facts  and  comparisons  must  find  room. 
The  average  monthly  temperature  at  Sa.nta  Barbara  shows  a  range 
of  less  than  fourteen  degrees — from  53°  in  January  to  66.6°  in 
August.  This  is  less  than  the  difference  between  Portland,  Maine  and 


LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 


Santa  Barbara  Rohes.  Photo,  by  Lcaeta. 

Philadelphia  for  the  single  month  of  May.  It  is  also  less  than  the 
difference  at  Atlantic  City  between  April  and  June.  No  month  at 
Santa  Barbara  is  so  cold  as  April  at  Atlantic  City  nor  so  warm  as 
June  at  the  same  place.  Perhaps,  however,  the  moat  vivid  impres- 
sion of  the  uniformity  of  the  year-round  climate  at  this  favored  spot 
will  be  found  in  a  comparative  table,  which  shows  that  January  in 
Santa  Barbara  corresponds  in  avemg'c  temperature  to  May  at  Nan- 
tucket, February  to  May  at  Atlantic  City,  March  to  May  at  Norfolk, 
Va.,  April  to  May  at  Portland,  Me.,  May  to  the  same  month  at  New 


Sakta  Barbara  a 


SANTA    BARBARA. 


SPOUT  AT  Low  TlDB.  PIlOlO.  bf  R«d. 

Haveo,  Ct.,  June  to  May  in  New  York  City,  July  to  May  at  Phila- 
delphia, August  to  May  at  Washington,  September  to  May  at  Brook- 
lyn, October  to  May  at  New  London,  Ct.,  and  November  and  Decem- 
ber to  May  at  Portland,  Me.  Truly  here  the  dream  of  a  land  where 
the  year  is  "  one  eternal  May"  is  fairly  realized. 

Jusl  a  few  more  statistics  on  the  weather  question,  and  we  shall 
have  done.    The  averagre  velocity  of  the  «ind  is  abbut  four  miles  an 


E  CaRun  Drive.  Photo*,  by  Kml. 


SANTA    BARBARA.  W7 

hour,  the  total  nind    movement    being  nearly  equal  winter   and 
summer.    The  average  annual  relative  humidity  is  71°,  being  lower 
in  winter  than  in  summer,  and  lower  throughout  the  year  than  at 
other  points  on  the   coast.     One   may 
count    on  about    240    at>solutely    clear 
days   during  the  year,   from  50   to  60 
fair    days,   30  to  40  cloudy  days,  and 
at>out    30    days    during    which    some 
rain   falls.      Practically    all    the    rain 
falls    t>etween    Novemt>er   and    April. 
Such   fogs  as   appear  come  in   mostly 
during   the    night  and   disappear  rap- 
idly before  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

These  figurea  may  seem  somewhat 
dull,  but  the  significance  of  them  for 
health  and  comfort  can  hardly  be 
overestimated.  They  mean  that  there 
is  no  day  in  the  year  when  the  in- 
valid need  fear  that  weather  condi- 
tions will  place  any  obstacle  in  the 
way  of  regaining  strength,  nor  when 
the  person  in  more  robust  health 
need  have  the  full  joy  of  living  clouded 
by  discomfort  from  that  source.  Taken 
in  connection  with  the  perfect  drain- 
age, the  fine  mountain  water,  the  free- 
dom from  both  endemic  and  epidemic 
disease,  and  the  constant  invitation  to 
and  opportunity  for  outdoor  living,  they 
mean  that  Santa  Barbara  is  one  of  the 
healthiest  spots  in  the  world.  And 
the  phenomenally  low  death-rate  con- 
firms this  deduction    beyond  possible 

One  conspicuous  and  interesting  re- 
sult of  these  conditions  is  the  great 
variety  and  luxuriance  of  plant-life, 
both  native  and  exotic.  On  this  point. 
Dr.  F.  Franceschi,  who  has  for  many 
years  mainly  occupied  himself  with 
introducing  and  acclimatizing  new 
flowers,  shrubs  and  trees  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  writes  : 

"  Santa  Barbara  is  known  at  present 
all  over  the  world  as  the  place  where 
the  largest  number  of  plants,  from 
widely  difTerent    climates,   have    con-  I'limo.  bs 


408  LAND    OF    SUNSHfNE. 

greg3.ted  to  live  happily  together,  and  often  will  thrive  with  more 
vigor  than  in  their  native  countries.  Mainly  two  factors  have 
contributed  to  bring  these  results.  The  first  is  nature,  namely,  the 
special  topographic  and  climatic  conditions  of  this  spot.  The  local 
meteorological  records  for  over  30  years,  when  carefully  compared 
with  other  localities  of  Southern  California,  unquestionably  show 
that  Santa  Barbara  enjoys  the  privilege  of  higher  rainfall,  and  of 
less  variation  l)etween  the  different  seasons  of  the  year,  consequently 
the  growth  of  most  plants  is  continuous,  and  they  will  attain  here 
larger  size  and  come  into  bearing  much  earlier  than  in  other  places. 
The  other  factor  is  man,  who  in  this  case  has  wonderfully  cooperated 
with  nature.  Ever  since  the  first  establishment  of  the  Old  Mission, 
more  than  a  century  ago,  a  much  larger  number  of  plants  was  intro~ 
duced  here  from  foreign  countries  than  in  other  localities  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  a  smaller  number  of  them  have  been  lost,  because  they 
found  here  more  congenial  conditions.  At  the  beginning  of  the  new 
century,  it  is  safe  to  say,  that  there  are  grown,  in  the  open,  at  Santa 
Barbara  not  less  than  150  different  species  of  palms,  about  the  same 
number  of  conifers,  50  species  of  bamboos,  about  300  of  vines  or 
climbers,  and  something  like  2,000  different  species  between  trees, 
shrubs  and  perennials.  They  have  convened  here  from  the  hottest 
and  from  the  coldest  regions  of  the  globe,  as  well  as  from  the  tem- 
perate one,  and  they  combine  to  make  a  display  of  vegetation  that 
have  no  rivals  anywhere  else." 

As  for  roses  and  the  more  familiar  garden  flowers  their  profusion 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year  is  fairly  bewildering.  Bven  more  interest- 
ing to  the  botanist,  or,  indeed,  to  most  genuine  flower  lovers,  are  the 
native  wild-flowers  which,  in  their  season,  carpet  field  and  hillside. 

But  climate  and  flowers  bv  no  means  exhaust  the  natural  charms 
of  Santa  Barbara.  Picturesquely  located  as  it  is— in  the  lap  of  the 
mountains  with  the  summer  sea  at  its  feet — one  might  spend  many  a 
week  in  riding,  driving,  or  walking  through  the  near-by  country,  re- 
turning each  day  before  nightfall,  and  making  each  day  a  trip  both 
new  and  interesting.  From  the  smoothly  macadamized  boulevard, 
which  runs  for  a  couple  of  miles  right  along  the  edge  of  the  Pacific, 
to  the  steep  and  rugged  trails  which  lift  rapidly  to  the  summit  of  the 
Santa  Ynez  range  is  but  a  few  miles,  and  one  may  get  almost  any 
desired  combination  of  ocean,  valley  and  mountain  scenery  within 
the  compass  of  a  few  hours.  Canon  and  mesa  and  smooth,  hard, 
sandy  beach,  orchards  of  olive,  lemon  or  walnut,  miles  of  densely- 
timbered  forest  reserve,  acres  of  strawberries  from  which  ripe  fruit 
may  be  gathered  any  week  in  the  year,  leaping  waterfalls,  and  long, 
quiet  roads  through  fertile  valleys  dotted  with  lovely  homes — these 
offer  but  a  suggestion  of  the  choice  that  is  near  at  hand. 

For  salt-water  bathing,  if  the  ocean  itself — with  a  temperature 
from  68°  to  74°  for  much  of  the  year  and  rarely  below  60°  at  any 
time — does  not  preci&ely  suit,  there  is  a  dainty  new  bath-house  on  the 
Plaza  del  Mar,  %vhich  should  meet  the  most  exacting  requirements. 


SANTA    BARBARA.  4" 

For  boating-  or  yachting,  the  Santa  Barbara  channel  is  one  of  the 
finest  stretches  in  the  world,  offering-  ample  sea  room  for  an  extended 
run  yet  so  protected  as  to  be  entirely  safe  at  all  times.  The  trip 
across  the  channel  to  the  Channel  Islands — San  Mig-uel,  Santa  Rosa, 
Santa  Crus  and  Anacapa — ia  one  of  great  interest.  They  are,  in 
reality,  only  the  tops  of  what  was  once  a  mountain  range,  parallel 
with  the  Santa  Ynez  and  a  part  of  the  mainland.  Their  shores  are 
in  the  main  very  precipitous,  perpendicular  bluffs  often  rising  hun- 
dreds of  feet  right  out  of  the  sea.  Picturesque  and  profusely  covered 
with  vegetation,  one  of  them  might  easily,  in  the  right  hands,  be- 
come   a    pleasure    resort   unrivalled   anywhere   except   by   Catalina 


An  Old  Adobe.  PUoio.  b)  Rwd. 

Island.  Even  the  great  tuna,  which  has  attracted  fishermen  from 
all  over  the  world  to  Catalina.  is  found  here  in  abundance,  while  the 
yellowtail,  sea-bass,  jew  fish,  barracuda,  and  others  offer  sport 
a-plenty  to  devotees  of  the  rod  and  reel. 

What  of  the  city  which  has  grown  up  amid  such  surroundings? 
In  the  first  place,  it  is  a  little  city  as  cities  go  nowadays,  counting 
scant  8.000  residents  within  the  two  miles  square  which  bound  it. 
And  it  is  a  restful  city — "sleepy"  it  might  be  called  by  those  who 
count  life  best  occupied  in  madly  chasing  dollars  some  of  the  time 
and  throwing  them  away  the  rest  of  it.  If  to  be  prosperous,  to  be  con- 
tented, to  be  beautiful,  to  be  reasonably  well-satisfied  with  itself  but 
continually  striving  for  solid  improvement  be  symptoms  of  sleepi- 
ness, Santa  Barbara  has  them  all — and  is  proud  of  it. 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


IK  Santa  Bahbaka.       Ptaoio.  bj-  I>acli. 

One  of  the  oldest  citie»  in 
California— it  was  founded  in 
1782  by  Fray  Juntpero  Serra^ 
the  "  local  color  "  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara has  retained  a  deeper  tinj^e 
from  the  yearn  before  the  Ameri- 
can occupation  than  any  other 
pla.ce  in  the  State  approaching' 
its  site,  and  is  all  the  more  inter- 
esting for  that  reason.  Full 
twenty  per  cent,  of  its  popula- 
tion are  of  Spanish  descent,  and 
one  considerable  part  of  the  city, 
but  a  stone's  throw  from  the 
chief  thoroughfare,  is  still  given 
over  to  the  old  adobe  houses. 
The  Old  Mission,  on  the  heights 
just  outside  the  city  limits,  is  the 
best  preserved  mission  building 
in  California,  and  the  only  one 
in  which  the  ministration  of  the 
Franciscans  has  never  been  inter- 
rupted. It  is  now  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  Franciscan  Order  on 
this  coast,  and  near  it  has  just 
been  completed  an  impressive 
stone  building  to  house  a  college 


for  the  training  of  yoiing  men 
desiring  to  enter  the  order. 
The  Mission  was  established 
in  1786,  but  most  of  the  pres- 
ent buildini^  date  no  further 
back  than  1820.  If  there 
were  nothing  els«  to  attract 
to  Santa  Barbara,  the  Mis- 
sion alone  would  repay  a  long 
pilgrimage  to  one  who  can 
really  see  and  understand. 

The  street-names  of  Santa 
Barbara  are  worth  an  article 
by  themselves.  Nowisealder- 
manic  body  has  cancelled  the 
historic  old  Spanish  and  In- 
dian names  to  replace  them  by 
numbers  or  to  embalm  the 
memory  of  local  politicians. 
The  consequence  is  that 
every  name  has  a  story  at- 
tached, and  one  mif^ht  spend 
time  with  less  profit  than  in 
learninir  the  names  and  the 
stories.  For  instance.  Canon 
Perdido  (lost  cannon)  street 
commemorates  the  stealing  by 
patriotic  native  Califomiana 
of  a  brass  twelve -pounder 
brought  here  in  1847  by  the  in- 
vading American  troops.  The 
local  authorities  could  not  or 
would  not  restore  it  upon  de- 
mand, whereupon  the  military 
governor  fined  the  town  five 
hundred  dollars,  and  sent  a 
cavalry  company  up  from  Los 
Angeles  to  enforce  collection. 
Uuinientos  (500)  street  was 
named  in  ru^ul  honor  of  the 
fine,  while  the  governor  who 
imposed  it — Mason — also  im- 
posed his  name  upon  the  adja- 
cent street.  Salsipuede<"get- 
out-if-you-can  "  )  street  is 
seamed  nith  ravines  and 
gulches, while  Anapamu,  Yan- 
onali  and  Valario  were  named 
for  Indians  of  various  renown. 


41*  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

Conspicuously  a  c'Aj  of  refined  and  culti  vated  homes,  Santa  Bar- 
bara's educational  facilities  are  excellent.  Some  1,700  children  are 
enrolled  at  the  public  schools,  which  include  kindergarten,  grammar 
and  high  schools,  and  a  manual  training-  school— the  pioneer,  by  the 
way,  of  sloyd  work  in  the  State.  Besides  these  are  a  business  -col- 
lege, a  collegiate  school,  St.  Anthony's  College  (Franciscan)  and  the 
St.  Vincent  school  for  girls.  The  public  library,  with  over  13,000 
twund  volumes,  and  a  large  and  well-selected  list  of  periodicals,  is 
open  to  visitors  as  well  as  to  residents  of  the  city. 

The  clubs  form  a  prominent  feature  of  Santa  Barbara  social  life. 
The  Union  Club  Includes  the  more  prominent  of   the  older  c 


Thb  New  Fkancibcan  Colleqe  Phoio.  by  EdwarflB. 

while  the  Santa  Barbara  Club  is  more  favored  by  the  younger  men. 
The  Santa  Barbara  Country  Club  has  its  beautiful  house  and  grounds 
at  Montecito  on  a  bluS  overlooking  the  ocean,  and  is  hospitable  and 
delightful.  The  Women's  Club  has  its  own  quarters  and  is  a  factor 
of  growing  importance  in  the  community.  The  Polo  Club,  with  a 
superb  field,  the  Coif  Club,  whose  links  are  exceedingly  picturesque 
as  well  as  "sporting,"  and  the  Gun  Club,  with  an  unusually  line 
preserve  on  Lake  Guadalupe,  fill  their  respective  spheres  to  the  sat- 
isfaction of  both  members  and  guests. 

Only  just  outside  the  category  of  clubs  stands  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  which  has  its  own  home  on  the  main  street,  and  keeps 
open  doors,  witti  a  cordial  welcome  on  tap  for  all  comers. 

Of  the  hotels,  the  Arlington's  supremacy  has  long  been  unchal- 
lenged, but  there  are  many  eTcellent  smaller  places,  and  a  long- 
talked-of  plan  to  put  up  a  superb  modern  hotel  fronting  on  the  ocean 
seems  to  be  nearing  realisation.    Certainly  the  opening  to  through 


SANTA    BARBARA. 


BoTEL.  Photo,  by  Reed. 

barely  tio-sr  accompUshed — will  add  immensely  to  the  tide  of  tourist 
travel  to  Santa  Barbara. 

It  is  safer  to  refrain  from  prophecy.  Yet  when  so  many  condi- 
tions unite  to  make  Santa  Barbara  a  perfect  home  for  people 
of  culture  and  refinement  who  can  choose  where  they  ahall  live,  one 
risks  nothing  in  predicting-  that  it  will  become  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful and  attractive  cities  in  all  the  lands.  Never  a  "great"  city, 
never  a  commercial  metropolis — these  would  bLot  its  peculiar  charm. 
Only  just  as  perfect  a  place  to  home  in  as  there  is  anywhere. 

Of  all  the  holy  calendar,  tradition  has  it  that  Saint  Barbara  was 
the  fairest  to  look  upon.  As  she  assumed  the  crown  of  virg-in  mar- 
tyrdom rather  more  than  sixteen  centuries  ago,  this  assertion  cannot 
well  be  either  confirmed  or  disproved.  But  let  her  have  t>een  never 
ao  lovely  and  gracious,  there  will  be  few  to  dispute  that  the  City  of 
Santa  Barbara  worthily  bears  her  name. 


416 

Los  Angeles  as  a  Wholesale  Center. 

EFORE  the  railways  came  to  Los  Ang-eles  there  were  two  or 
three  houses  in  the  city  that  called  themselves  **  Wholesale 
and  Retail  '*  by  reason  of  the  fact  that  they  distributed  some 
of  the  goods  broug'ht  into  San  Pedro  by  water  to  the  dealers 
in  the  small  towns  and  mining  camps  in  the  interior.  Although  not 
literally  a  seaport,  Los  Anjjeles  is  near  enough  to  the  ocean  to  enjoy 
the  advantag^es  of  water  traffic,  provided  its  people  choose  to  put 
forth  the  energy  that  is  needed  to  make  up  for  the  20  miles  of  separa- 
tion. Fortunately  this  city  has  from  the  very  beginning  of  its  com- 
mercial existence  had  enterprising  and  courageous  men  who  have 
seized  every  opportunity  that  came  to  hand  for  the  development  of 
trade. 

When  the  Central  Pacific  crossed  the  mountains,  Los  Angeles  had 
a  large  part  of  the  Salt  Lake  City  trade,  the  Arizona  and  Nevada 
trade,  which  was  chiefly  with  mining  camps,  the  trade  with  Inyo  and 
Kern  counties,  and  with  the  interior  cities  of  Southern  California. 
Most  of  the  port  towns  of  Southern  California  were  controlled  from 
San  Francisco,  and  the  merchants  of  the  latter  city,  indeed,  did  a 
good  part  of  the  business  in  Los  Angeles  city.  As  far  back  as  1866, 
however,  there  was  one  Los  Angeles  wholesale  house  that  kept  one 
member  of  the  firm  in  New  York  city  as  a  permanent  representative. 
The  construction  of  the  Central  Pacific  cut  ofl:'  the  Salt  Lake  trade 
and  gave  it  to  San  Francisco,  the  Carson  and  Colorado  road  took 
away  Inyo  county,  and  when  the  Southern  Pacific  came  down  into 
the  San  Joaquin  Valley  the  business  of  that  section  naturally  went 
north. 

In  1877  the  Southern  Pacific  entered  Los  Angeles  from  the  north, 
and  a  few  years  later  established  a  connection  with  the  Texas  Pacific 
through  to  the  Kast.  Los  Angeles  was  given  the  advantage  of  ter- 
minal rates  from  Eastern  points  ;  that  is  to  say,  it  cost  no  more  to 
ship  from  New  York  or  Chicago  to  Los  Angeles  than  from  those 
points  to  San  Francisco.  This  was  a  recognition  on  the  part  of  the 
railway  of  the  presence  of  ocean  competition  at  Los  Angeles,  and 
was  indeed  the  basis  of  its  wholesale  commercial  life.  The  Inter- 
State  Commerce  Commission  has  since  then  held  that  a  distance  of 
20  miles  from  the  coast,  which  can  easily  be  covered  by  teaming, 
entitles  a  city  to  water  competitive  privileges  in  its  railway  rates. 
This  enables  the  Los  Angeles  wholesale  merchant — or  jobber,  as  he 
calls  himself  in  the  trade — to  bring  goods  clear  through  from  the 
East  at  the  same  figure  he  would  have  to  pay  for  carrying  them  by 
water,  and  then  distribute  them  on  local  rates  back  into  Arizona  and 
throughout  Southern  California. 

In  1885  the  Santa  F^  line  came  through  from  Chicago,  and  a  pas- 
senger and  freight  war  began  which  settled  the  region  with  great 
rapidity ;  and  although  it  threw  business  for  a  time  into  utter  confu- 
sion, in  the  end  it  made  Los  Angeles  a  veritable  jobbing  center.  Los 
Angeles  street,  the  old  hay  market,  being  a  wide  thoroughfare  and 
convenient  for  teaming,  was  the  natural  home  of  this  line  of  trade. 
From  1887  to  the  present  time  the  jobbing  business  of  the  city  has 
increa.sed  in  almost  an  even  ratio,  until  now  it  occupies  about  a  mile 
of  frontage,  includes  over  100  houses,  and  covers  every  kind  of  com- 
modity. 

Considering  the  adverse  conditions  under  which  wholesale  trade 
has  been  carried  on  by  Los  Angeles,  it  is  surprising  that  the  city  has 
succeeded  in  acquiring  the  volume  it  now  enjoys.  There  is  a  natural 
tendency  on  the  part  of  railways  not  to  increase  the  number  of  job- 
bing centers  and  not  to  encourage  the  growth  of  the  smaller  places 


LOS    ANGELES    AS    A    WHOLESALE    CENTER.        417 

more  than  is  necessary.  The  evident  reason  for  that  policy  lies  in 
the  fact  that  it  pays  a  railroad  better  to  mass  its  heaviest  business  at 
a  few  points  rather  than  to  spread  it  out  over  a  number  of  places.  It 
is  cheaper  to  carry  a  thousand  trainloads  of  low-priced  freight  to  one 
place  than  to  carry  100  trainloads  to  each  of  ten  places. 

There  is  no  desire  on  the  part  of  the  railroads  to  be  unjust  or  to 
favor  one  place  as  against  another,  but  they  must  of  necessity  seek 
the  most  economical  methods  of  distributing  the  traffic.  Hence  in 
their  adjustment  of  rates  they  instinctively  favor  a  large  jobbing 
center  like  San  Francisco  as  against  a  smaller  one  like  I^os  Angeles — 
just  as  the  average  merchant  is  disposed  to  extend  favors  to 
a  big  customer  that  he  avoids  offering  to  a  small  one.  Then, 
again,  railroads  are  nervous  about  making  changes  in  their  tariffs, 
for  a  little  disturbance  at  one  point  sometimes  disarranges  rates  over 
a  wide  area,  and  may,  perhaps,  involve  considerable  loss  of  revenue  to 
the  company.  Now  the  freight  rates  of  California  were  originally 
framed  on  the  theory  that  there  were  only  two  legitimate  jobbing 
centers,  to- wit,  San  Francisco  and  Sacramento.  Other  places — five 
in  number — were  given  terminal  rates,  but  local  rates  leading  out 
from  them  were  not  adjusted  with  a  view  to  allowing  much  oppor- 
tunity for  jobbing  business.  Fortunately,  when  the  Santa  Fe  came 
in,  there  was  a  great  shaking  up  of  rates,  and  in  the  readjustment 
Los  Angeles  gained  several  points,  but  on  the  next  general  shaking 
up — in  1894-S— L/OS  Angeles  lost  some  of  the  gain.  The  fact  that  the 
city  was  not  directly  on  the  water  front  was  against  it  with  reference 
to  the  coast  traffic,  and  the  absence  of  a  deep-water  harbor  cut  off 
the  possibility  of  Oriental  commerce. 

In  spite  of  this  and  other  difficulties  the  jobbing  trade  of  the  city 
has  more  than  held  its  own  with  the  development  in  other  lines  of 
business.  San  Francisco  competition,  which  at  one  time  was  active 
throughout  the  whole  of  Southern  California,  is  reduced  to  a  mini- 
mum. Most  of  what  now  exists  is  carried  on  through  local  branches 
of  San  Francisco  houses.  As  these  local  establishments  carry  a 
large  stock  and  operate  their  Southern  California  business  independ- 
ently of  the  main  house,  they  are  entitled  to  rank — with  respect  to 
the  general  jobbing  trade  of  Los  Angeles — exactly  as  though  they 
were  genuine  local  houses.  A  number  of  Eastern  houses  keep 
traveling  men  in  this  region,  but  they  do  not  interfere  seriously  with 
the  Los  Angeles  merchants  until  the  Arizona  territory  is  reached. 
At  the  point  where  the  freight  rate  from  Chicago  or  St.  Louis  equals 
the  through  rate  to  the  coast  plus  the  local  rate  back,  the  Eastern 
jobber  meets  the  Los  Angeles  jobber  on  equal  terms,  and  beyond 
that  point  the  Easterner  is  in  control. 

The  division  of  territory  along  this  coast  to  the  north  has  long 
been  regulated  by  the  rates  of  the  steamship  line  which  put  the 
center  south  of  Ventura,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  geographical 
center  is  at  San  Luis  Obispo.  The  reason  for  that  lay  in  the  haul 
by  rail  from  Los  Angeles  to  the  seaboard  which  raised  the  tariff  for 
the  Los  Angeles  jobber  and,  in  effect,  increased  his  distance.  When 
the  coast  railway  line  was  completed,  however,  the  rates  were  made 
to  center  on  San  Luis  Obispo  and  Los  Angeles  gained  a  strip  of  new 
territory  that  will  in  time  yield  good  business. 

More  important  than  that  was  the  gain  recently  achieved  in  the 
San  Joaquin  Valley  by  the  promise  on  the  part  of  the  Southern  Pa- 
cific to  put  out  a  new  tariff  materially  reducing  the  rates  now  paid 
by  Los  Angeles  shippers  into  that  region.  Heretofore  the  rates  to 
Bakersfield  have  been  practically  equal  from  San  Francisco  and  Los 
Angeles,  and  north  of  that  city  the  differentials  have  favored  San 
Francisco,  increasing  as  they  went  north  until  by  the  time  Fresno 
was  reached  the  Los  Angeles  merchant  could  do  no  business  at  all. 


ThU  matter  bas  be«a  a  soarce  of  diapote  for 


Lob  Ang'Clem  hOB  been  thui  far  entirelj  shut  out  of  the  Mexican  and  Central 
American  trade,  and  it  does  no  business  witb  the  Orient.    These  are  conditioaa  that 

are  likclj-  to  change  as  soon  as  the  harbor  is  completed.  The  construction  of  the 
line  to  Salt  Lake  and  to  Inyo  count;  will  give  this  city  valuable  trade  acquisitions  in 
those  fields.     Within  the  next  five  or  six  jears  some  remarkalile  developments  ire 

o  be  expected  in  the  wholesale  busittess  of  Los  Angeles. 


DECEMBER,  I901 


Vol.  XV.  No.  6    / 


enceforth«OUT     WEST^'f' 


^  THE  LAND  OF 

SUNSHINE 


CALIFORNIA  AND  THE  WEST 

EDITED  BY  CHAS.  F.  LUMMtS 

FROM    AND    AFTER    NEXT     MONTH,    WHICH    BEGINS 
VOL.    XVI.    THIS    MAGAZINE    WILL    BE     KNOWN    AS 

OUT  WEST 

A     MAOAZINE     OF 

THE.    OLD     PACiriC    AND     THE    NEW 


The  LAND  OF  SUNSHINE  has  not  aold  out.  ^one  oul 
nor  changed.  It  has  simply-  ^rown.  It  will  still  ie 
THE     MAGAZINE     OF     THE     WEST-'only     more     so." 


AAAAAVlA/lAA/l/lAAAAAAAAAMA/" 


10.' 


CENTS  LOS  MGCLES        SAN  fRANCISCO 


at 


MISCELLANEOUS 


CL   CD 


r 


HARVARD  UNIVERSITY. 


Bl 


LIBRARY 


U^.         FEABODY  HUSEUM  OF  AMEBIOAS 


ABOESOLOSY  AND  ETHNOLOGY. 


» 


:^ 


\TS 


3LES 


)urist 
otel 

M  Ang^eleA 

Every  Modern 

Comfort   Attd  Convenience 

that  can  be  found  bi 

aay  Hotel. 

Unsurpuied  Golf  Linka. 


F.  O.  JOHNSON,  Proprietor 


R  AT  Pala.    iS«  Tlie  Lan 


Vol.  is,  no.  6  December.  1901 

The  Burgher's  Wife. 

i  l«  tki  Brithk  DilmliBH  Camp.) 

3,  the  guard  goes  heavily,  the  sun 
;s  on  the  roof, 

ars  the  sick  ones  moaning  but  he 
I  his  eyes  aloof  ; 

.ven  is  only  sun-glare,  dust-devils  on 
veldt. 
We  could  not  pray  the  clouds  up,  however 
long  we  knelt. 
There  are  women  who  are  sullen,  there  are  women  who  are 

wild. 
And  one  perhaps  is  hopeful,  but  that  one  has  no  child  ; 
Katrina  raved  when  yesternoon  they  took  her  last  away, 
Annetje's  went  at  candle  light,  and  mine  will  go  today. 

And  is  it  you,  brave  England,  that  holds  us  in  the 

pen — 
Making  war  on  wives  and  children,  since  you  cannot 

match  our  men  ? 
Will  you  swallow  up  our  nation,  make  our  name  as 

naught,  you  think  ? 
By  the  living  God  of  Dutchmen,  you  shall  spew  the 

broth  you  drink ! 

CoprriiKt  I3D1  by  Luid  of  Sunihin*  PublMiIni  Co. 


^24  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

I  had  seven  sons,  how  long  ago!     Seven  and  my  good  man. 

And  Greta — only  woman-child  that  came  to  me  and  Jan — 

Six  strong  sons  of  my  body,  and  one  that  still  was  small ; 

They  were  stout  for  war  or  praying,  and  their  country  took 

them  all — 

The  wolf,  the  kite,  the  river  trench,  by  kopje  and  by  veldt, 
I  did  not  weep,  though  all  their  wounds  I  in  my  body  felt ; 
It  was  I  that  scoured  their  rifles — one  had  hardly  done  with 

play— 

I  did  not  weep  to  see  them  go,  but  I  shall  weep  today. 

And  is  it  wise,  Great  England,  to  build  yoiir  great- 
ness so  ? 

You    that   fatten    on  small  peoples — though,  God's 
faith,  the  meal  is  slow  I — 

Growing  wider  by  the  holdings  of  a  simpler,  feebler 
folk. 

It  is  fatness  where  no  strength  is,  and  you  too  shall 
feel  the  yoke. 

But  once  I  wept  for  Wilhelm — he  had  his  father's  looks — 
The  day  that  he  was  turned  sixteen  he  put  away  his  books, 
'*  Now,  kiss  me  mpther,  let  me  go,  for  I  am  grown  a  man" — 
And  so  I  wept  for  Wilhelm,  though  I  did  not  weep  for  Jan. 
And  for  myself  no  whimper.     I  am  past  my  bearing  time. 
But  I  weep  to  know  my  woman-child  must  die  before'.her 

prime. 
Is  no  coolness  on  the  pillow  for  the  tender,  fevered  head  ? 
Is  no  comfort  in  the  sickness  but  my  tear,  and  captive's 

bread  ? 

It  is  not  for  you,  O  England,  to  give  me  back  m^^ 
sons. 

We  have  paid  the  tale  twice  over  by  the  coughing, 
spitting  guns; 

But  the  small  graves  of  the  children,  they  are  yawn- 
ing in  the  sod — 

Deep  enough  to  gulf  your  glory — high  to  witness 
unto  God. 

Independence.  Cal. 


425 

A  Week  of  Wonders. 

II. 

UNRISE  of  Oct.  24th  saw  us  stringing- 
out  under  a  dense  cloud  that  brooded 
upon  the  Continental  Divide,  headed  for 
the  Chaco  Canon,  65  miles  north.  Our  pro- 
cession was  as  it  were  a  hyphen  from  the 
old  days  to  the  new ;  for  perhaps  never  be- 
fore did  New  Mexico  witness  a  retinue  not 
only  of  seven  or  eight  honest  Studebakers, 
with  wagon-sheets  and  bows,  and  as  many 
saddle-horses  of  all  degrees  from  my  Navajo  matalotc  to 
'*  Dick's"  magnificent  mount — but  even  a  barouche  and  a  V-^ 
pneumatic-tired  buggy.  At  the  latter,  the  very  roads  of 
New  Mexico  might  have  been  expected  to  *'  pitch."  This 
varied  outfit  was  of  the  Hyde  Exploring  Expedition — a 
morganatic  marriage  of  commerce  with  science  ;  its  ex- 
pectation of  posterity  being  to  corner  the  Navajo  blanket 
market  in  particular,  and  to  amass  archaeological  knowl- 
edge and  specimens  for  the  American  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  New  York.  Whatever  shall  be  the  issue  of  these 
parental  forecasts,  there  is  no  doubt  of  the  present  status 
of  the  concern.  Anyone  who  has  known  the  eflScient  lay 
work  done  for  years  among  the  cliflf-dwellers  of  the  "  San 
Juan  country,"  or  ever  met  that  small,  steel-sinewed, 
square-jawed,  silent  person  who  has  conquered  the  love  of 
the  Navajos,  the  Richard  Wether  ill  who  is  manager  of  the 
"H.  E.  E.,"  will  know  that  things  will  be  done  according 
to  whatever  program  the  ultimate  heads  shall  have  wisdom 
to  outline.  For  the  rest,  it  is  enough  to  say  here  that  Mr. 
Wetherill  handled  the  problem  of  such  a  party  in  a  way  to 
win  admiration  and  gratitude. 

Up  the  long  *'  draws"  between  the  red  mesas,  down  the 
tortuous  windings  of  the  Canon  Agua  Negra  Chiquita — at 
whose  well  we  made  noon  camp — and  out  into  the  impres- 
sive plains  we  struggled.  A  few  of  us  made  a  short  detour 
and  picked  up  pottery  and  bits  of  turquoise  at  the  lonely 
little  prehistoric  ruin  of  Ki-a-a,  the  "  Pueblo  Alto"  of  the 
Mexicans  of  San  Mateo — a  many-storied  building  whose 
highest  point  was  square  outside  and  round  within.  At 
night  we  camped  at  the  Pintado,  where  there  is  a  seep  of 
fair  water,  and  where  Mr.  Wetherill  had  pitched  seven 
tents  for  our  party.  The  fifty  or  sixty  Navajos  who  were 
along  needed  no  such  luxuries ;  but  around  our  campfire 
they  gave  us,  after  our  supper  and  our  singing,  an  extremely 
interesting  and  barbaric  dance. 

In  time  for  early  dinner  next  day  we   were   in  Chaco 


*26  LAND    OF    SUNSHINIl. 

Caoon,  where  Mr.  Wetherill's  homestead  and  the  H.  E.  E- 
store  fairly  jostle  the  bones  of  the  past.  He  has  built  be- 
side the  ruins  of  that  wonderful  structure  the  Pueblo 
Bonito,  and  even  occupies  some  of  its  ancient  rooms.  Down 
by  the  "  boarding-house,"  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  west, 
are  the  ruins  of  the  Pueblo  del  Arroyo ;  quarter  of  a  mile 
east — under  the  same  fine  cliff  which  walls  the  valley  on 


B  Pueblo  dei.  Arrovo.       Photo,  by  Cha« 


the  north — are  the  ruins  of  Chetro-Kettle  ;  and  upon  the 
cliff  itself,  a  little  back,  are  two  other  immemorial  ruins 
The  whole  region  is  peppered  with  them. 

This  is  not  the  place  for  a  description  nor  for  a  discus- 
sion of  the  Chaco  ruins.  The  accompanying  photographs 
and  a  few  data  about  the  Pueblo  Bonito  must  suffice  here. 
Those  who  care  to  know  more  may  go  and  see  these  aston- 
ishing monuments,  and  consult  the  works  of  Bandelier, 
Lieut.  Simpson  (1849),  W.  H.  Jackson  (1874).  and  the  other 
interesting  brochures  of  Dr.  Pepper  of  the  American 
Museum  of  Natural  History. 


PKBB.  RlPLBV'B  Pahtv  C 


North  Wall  or  Ki-a-«.  Rhoto.  by  Chas.  P.  Ldd 


LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 


The  Pueblo  Bonito  is  built  in  a  semicircle,  apparently 
symmetrical,  but  really  not  so,  its  chord  facing  the  arroyo 
in  the  middle  of  the  narrow  valley,  its  arc  toward  the 
hundred-foot  ciiff,  which  is  the  valley's  northern  bound. 
The  chord  measures  540  feet ;  the  distance  from  it  to  the 
zenith  of  the  arc  is  350  feet ;  the  total  perimeter  was  about 
1300  feet.  The  pueblo  was  in  fact  one  huge  building,  in 
parts  four  stories  high.  Mr.  Wetherill— who  has,  by  prac- 
tical experience,  the  best  right  to  know — estimates  that  it 
contains  at  least  1200  rooms.  It  was  the  only  other  pueblo 
in  New  Mexico  in  the  same  category  as  Pecos  CCoronado's 
"Cicuye").  the  latter  being  a  little  the  larger,  but  both  ex- 


"  Cbrbuohmi.  Trench."       Photo,  by  Cba«.  P.  Lnmmis. 


A    WEEK    OF    WONDERS.  437 

ceeding  by  much  any  other  Indian  town  in  the  United 
States  in  prehistoric  times.  About  180  rooms  have  already 
been  excavated — or,  counting  additional  stories,  where  they 
existed,  about  360.  Nearest  the  cliff  the  walls  still  stand 
full  30  feet  high.  In  some  of  the  ground-floor  rooms,  which 
have  been  excavated,  the  wooden  ceilings  and  lintels  are 
apparently  as  perfect  as  the  day  they  were  put  in  place. 
The  estuf  as,  of  which  some  half-dozen  have  been  uncovered, 
have  some  remarkable  features,  (see  Dr.  Pepper's  paper). 

But  perhaps  even  more  than  by  the  area,  height  and  plan 
of  this  noble  ruin,  the  visitor  will  be  impressed  by  its  mag- 
nificent masonry,  of  which  the  photographs  give  but  an 
inadequate  idea.  One  can  hardly  blame  the  *' arm-chair 
explorer,"  for  the  first  time  confronted  with  these  beautiful 
walls,  who  declares  that  they  are  *'of  cut  stone."  Of 
course  there  was  no  cut-stone  masonry  in  ancient  New 
Mexico ;  the  friendly  fractures  of  the  Sandstones  were 
enough.  But  outside  the  peerless  bronze-tool  carvings  of 
Cuzco  and  Tiahuanaco  and  their  class,  I  know  no  other 
walls  quite  so  impressive.  You  can  run  a  spade  down  them 
as  you  would  a  plank  ;  and  while  our  modern  masonry  is 
very  different,  it  is  no  more  expert.  In  the  rooms  filled  with 
the  debris  of  ruin,  the  excavators  have  found  an  enormous 
quantity  of  valuable  antiquities. 

On  the  second  ledge  of  the  big  northerly  mesa  is  a  re- 
markable trench  running  some  hundreds  of  yards  but  only 
about  three  inches  wide  and  three  deep.  It  runs  up  hill 
and  down,  and  could  not,  therefore,  have  served  as  a  run 
for  water.  About  a  dozen  feet  south  of  it  are  the  remains 
of  a  wall,  which  was,  perhaps,  waist-high.  Its  utility  is 
obscure  ;  but  it  was  probably  ceremonial.  The  photo- 
graph shows  a  few  rods  of  its  course.  The  figure  beside 
it  is  that  of  a  Harvard  A.B.  and  A.M.,  studying  here  for 
his  Ph.  D.,  and  already  deep  in  the  language  and  lore  of 
the  Navajos — Mr.  A.  M.  Tozzer.  Another  recent  Harvard 
graduate,  Mr.  J.  L.  Clarke,  is  also  at  Pueblo  Bonito.  It  is 
highly  typical  of  the  West  that  here,  in  about  as  remote  a 
corner  as  '*  civilized"  people  ever  get  to,  the  Chautauquan 
smatterer  from  Boston  or  New  York  runs  against  men  who 
can  correct  his  accent. 

The  party  had  twenty-four  hours  at  Pueblo  Bonito  and 
its  circumjacent  ruins  ;  acquired  many  curios  and  more 
photographs ;  reversed  its  itinerary,  via  Pintado,  Ki-a-a, 
Canon  Agua  Negra  Chiquita,  with  keen  interest  and  entire 
comfort ;  and  at  dark  on  the  27th  the  special  rolled  west- 
ward from  Thoreau,  bound  for  the  Grand  Canon  of  the 
Colorado.  L. 


The  Pomo  Indian  Baskets  and  Their 
Makers. 


'IFTY  years  ago  the  many  wild,  mountain- 
hemmed  valleys  of  Lake  and  Mendocino 
counties  were  each  the  home  of  one  or 
several  small  Indian  tribes  entirely  inde- 
pendent of  all  others,  and  speaking:  a 
language  at  best  only  partly  intelligible 
to  their  nearest  neighbors.  The  Fran- 
ciscan Fathers,  who  had  gathered  the 
tribes  of  the  central  and  southern  parts  of  California  into 
the  Missions,  now  California's  most  picturesque  ruins,  had 


11  niaB*Ilne  for  April.  1901.    Mr. 


tii>  series  of 
ttliatied.  Fol- 


**0  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

never  gained  a  hold  on  the  secluded  mountaineers.  The 
traders  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  whose  influence  upon 
the  Indians  of  the  great  Northwest  is  still  so  apparent, 
had  not  come  so  far  south,  while  the  Mexican  soldiers  who 
attempted  to  penetrate  these  fastnesses  met  with  a  recep- 
tion so  warm  that  it  was  still  fresh  in  their  memory  when, 
in  the  year  1846,  the  United  States  succeeded  Mexico  as 
sovereign  of  California. 

At  that  date  these  little  tribes  were  scarcely  more  affected 
by  civilization  than  when  Columbus  discovered  the  New 
World. 

In  the  early  'Fifties,  American  settlers  began  to  push 
into  the  beautiful  valleys  which  had  so  long  been  their 


homes.  At  first  they  were  not  molested  by  the  Indians, 
and  it  was  only  when  unprincipled  scoundrels  had  kid- 
napped their  children  by  scores  to  be  sold  into  slavery  and 
otherwise  most  outrageously  maltreated  them  that  they 
tose  and  killed  several  of  their  worst  enemies.  The  usual 
result  happened.  The  Indians  of  the  Clear  Lake  regfion 
fled  to  an  island  which  stands  among  the  marshes  at 
the  upper  end  of  the  lake,  an  ancient  stronghold  of  theirs. 
They  were  pursued  by  soldiers  and  defeated.  The  peace 
then  made  has  never  been  broken.  The  Indians  returned 
to  their  homes,  where  they  still  live. 

The  tribes  of  northeastern  Mendocino  county  were  of  a 


«2  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

different  race  and  more  warlike  character.  Their  resist- 
ance was  more  stubborn  ;  and,  according  to  the  old  settlers, 
there  was  a  considerable  period  of  frontier  warfare.  When 
the  Indians  of  that  region  were  conquered  they  were  placed 
upon  the  Round  Valley  Indian  reservation,  where  they 
now  are. 

The  leading  tribes  of  Mendocino  county  are  the  Sanclos 
of  Sanel  Valley,  the  Yokayos  of  Ukiah  Valley,  the  Ballo 
Kai  Pomo  of  Potter  Valley,  the  Ukis  of  Round  Valley, 
and  the  Calpellas.  Four  tribes  lived  about  the  upper  end 
of  Clear  Lake  ;  of  these,  three  are  practically  consolidated. 
In  Big  Valley,  west  of  the  lake,  were   the  Kabenapo  and 


the  Palanapo.  Most  of  these  are  now  collected  in  a  mission 
near  Kelseyville  under  the  care  of  the  Franciscan  Fathers. 
At  the  southern  end  of  the  lake  are  the  Lower  Lakes,  the 
Makhekhel  of  some  writers.  In  northern  Sonoma  county 
the  Wappos  lived  in  Alexander  Valley,  the  Gallynomeros 
about  Healdsburg.  Along  the  Mendocino  coast  were 
several  other  tribes,  while  the  lesser  valleys  each  harbored 
one.  In  all  there  were  something  like  thirty  of  these  little 
tribes,  no  one  of  which  probably  numbered  over  500  people, 
each  with  its  own  chief  and  a  language  more  or  less  dis- 
tinct— as  separate   from   its   neighbor  as  France  is  from 


444  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

Italy.  Often  the  Indians  at  one  end  of  a  valley  could  not 
converse  with  their  nei^^hbors  at  the  other  end ;  and,  in- 
deed, at  this  late  day,  the  Indians  aboriginal  to  the  two 
ends  of  Ukiah  Valley  (which  is  about  eight  miles  lonff ) 
find  English  the  more  convenient  language  when  they  meet. 

In  the  language  of  the  Indians  of  Upper  Ukiah,  Red- 
wood and  Potter  Valleys,  the  word  Porno  means  *' people," 
while  in  the  northern  Lake  county  Napo  has  the 
same  meaning.  Thus  in  the  tongue  of  the  former  the 
Potter  Valley  Indians  are  the  Ballo  Kai  Pomo,  or  Oat 
Valley  People  ;  those  of  Ukiah,  Yokai  Pomo,  or  South 
Valley  People  y  the  lake  tribes,  Shoke  Pomo  or  Lake 
People.*  Similarly  in  Lake  county,  the  tribes  on  the  hilly 
edge  of  Big  Valley  were  Kabenapo  or  Rock  People. 
Those  who  lived  down  by  the  waters  of  Clear  Lake  were 
Talanapo  or  Pond  Lily  People,  and  that  tribe  which  lived 
in  the  bushy  region  along  Cache  Creek  were  Khinapo  or 
Wood  People,  etc.  As  will  be  seen  all  tribal  names  were 
descriptive  with  the  suffix  People. 

Properly  speaking,  therefore,  there  is  no  such  a  tribe  as 
the  Pomos. 

The  name  Pomo  was  first  used  by  Mr.  Stephen  Powers, 
whose  studies  of  the  California  Indians  from  1873  to  1876 
were  embodied  in  a  most  interesting  volume  of  the  United 
States  Government  Reports  in  1876.  Mr.  Powers's  use  of 
the  word  was  in  designating  a  linguistic  group  rather  than 
a  tribe  proper,  and  in  that  sense  it  is  now  accepted  by  the 
best  authorities. 

The  customs,  arts  and  physiognomies  of  all  of  the  tribes 
I  have  mentioned  are  very  similar,  and  while  there  is  much 
diflFerence  in  language  there  is  sufficient  likeness  to  make 
it  certain  that  all  were  derived  from  the  same  stock.  The 
name  Pomo  in  this  sense  is  as  good  as  any  other,  and  is 
generally  accepted,  while  all  of  their  baskets  are  called 
Pomos, 

The  Indian  words  for  weaves  and  classes  of  Pomo  baskets 
which  are  in  use  among  many  collectors  are  from  the  dialect 
of  the  Yokayo,  Upper  Yokai,  Calpella  and  Potter  Valley 
tribes  (which  are  closely  related).  Among  the  other  tribes 
altogether  different  words  are  used.  Thus  the  word  basket 
in  Potter  is  **pi-ka",  at  Upper  Lake  "si-tol",  at  Lower 
Lake  *'k5-lob,"at  Cache  Creek  '*ka-wah."  Throughout 
this  article  all  Indians  words  are  from  the  Potter  Valley 
Pomo  unless  otherwise  stated.  Doctor  Hudson's  writings 
have  made  the  basket  collectors  more  or  less  familiar  with 
these  words,  and  there  could  be  no  possible  excuse  for 
changing.     The  spelling  used  is  that  recommended  by  the 

♦Each  of  the  tribes  llvinif  in  Ukiah  Valley  now  claim  the  name  Yokai. 


LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 


Smithsoniaii  Institute.  The  arts,  customs  and  lecrends  of 
the  Pomos  are  peculiarly-interesting,  and  a  most  readable 
volume  could  be  written  with  them  as  a  subject.  In  the 
space  at  my  command  I  can  only  give  a  suggestion  of  the 
wealth  of  material. 

Kach  little  tribe  was  an  independent  nation  as  to  govern- 
ment, and  few  alliances  were  formed  with  their  neighbors. 
The  fact  that  distinct  dialects  were  maintained  at  opposite 
ends  of  the  small  valley  is  sufBcient  proof  that  there  was 
little  intermarriage. 

Until  long  after  the  white  man  came,  their  winter  homes 
were  domes  of  wickerwork,  thatched  heavily  with  grass  or 
tules,  and  the  older  people  still  build  such  homes.  The 
beautiful  photograph  found  on  page  433  is  of  such  a  bouse 


POMO    INDIAN    BASKETS,  447 

still  standing  in  good  preservation  in  the  center  of  Big 
Valley,  Lake  county,  and  was  taken  this  spring.  It  so  per- 
fectly shows  the  manner  of  construction  as  to  make  des- 
cription unnecessary.  In  such  a  house  three  generations 
of  a  family  lived  and  stored  their  food.  The  center  was 
occupied  by  open  fires,  the  smoke  finding  vent  through  a 
hole  in  the  roof.  Great  storage  baskets  filled  with  acorns 
were  stacked  on  the  sides,  fish  hung  on  strings  on  the 
walls,  and  the  whole  family  life  went  on  within.  The 
summer  house  was  also  of  wicker  work  covered  with 
boughs,  and  the  tribe  often  moved  several  times  a  year,  as 
acorns,  fish  or  game,  or  dry  quarters  were  the  desiderata. 

Their  women  carried  great  loads  in  the  conical  baskets, 
suspended  in. a  net  which  had  a  broad  band  which  passed 
across  the  forehead.  When  the  woman  bent  forward  the 
weight  rested  on  the  back  and  was  steadied  by  the  head. 
A  great  variety  of  seeds,  bulbs  and  roots  were  used  for 
food.  The  soap  root,  '*Chlorogalum,"  was  used  for  laun- 
dry purposes,  and  also  was  beaten  into  a  pulp  and  placed  in 
streams  and  pools  to  stupefy  the  fish.  The  great  food 
staple  of  the  Porao  tribes  was  the  acorn  ;  this,  the  great 
number  of  oaks  of  various  sorts,  which  are  such  a  scenic 
feature  in  the  region  they  inhabit,  furnished  in  abundance. 
Each  winter  village  contained  the  sweat-house,  an  institu- 
tion inseparable  from  their  social  and  religious  life.  It 
was  a  circular  excavation  roofed  with  timbers  to  form  a 
cone  and  covered  with  soil.  The  largest  were  thirty  or 
forty  feet  across.  In  it  their  dances  and  other  assemblages 
were  held.  The  building  portrayed  on  page  445  is  a  modern- 
ized adaptation  of  the  plan.  Few  of  the  old-style  sweat- 
houses  are  now  to  be  found. 

Their  dances  were  of  a  medical  or  religious  character, 
and  the  costumes  and  chants  varied  according  to  the  occa- 
sion. I  well  remember  a  great  dance  which  occurred  in 
1873.  At  the  rancheria  five  miles  south  of  Ukiah  an  im- 
mense sweat  house  was  built,  and  the  Indians  gathered 
there  from  far  and  near.  For  weeks  dances  took  place  day 
and  night ;  the  big  building  was  crowded  with  savage 
faces  ;  the  dancers,  in  the  middle,  naked  except  for  a 
feathered  skirt  about  the  waist  and  hideously  painted,  the 
barbaric  musical  accompaniment  and  the  chants,  now  low 
and  then  rising  to  cries  which  could  be  heard  for  miles, 
made  a  scene  to  impress  itself  indelibly  on  the  mind  of  the 
white  onlooker.  Dances  still  take  place  occasionally,  and 
the  costumes  in  the  accompanying  photographs  are  essen- 
tially the  ancient  ones,  plus  some  extra  clothing. 

When   a  death   occurred,   the   body,  together  with  the 


POMO    INDIAN    BASKETS,  ^9 

most  precious  effects  of  the  deceased  and  presents  from 
friends,  was  burned.  The  house  in  which  a  death  occurred 
was  also  burned.  Cremation  continued  to  be  practiced 
until  the  late  'Seventies,  and  then  gradually  gave  way  to 
burial.  They  still  burn  or  bury  valuable  articles  with  the 
deceased.  The  house  is  not  now  burned,  but  is  almost  al- 
ways torn  down  and  moved.  This  custom  accounts  for  the 
very  poor  dwellings  among  the  Indians,  as  compared  with 
their  quite  valuable  belongings  of  other  sorts.  The  entire 
tribe  joined  in  the  cremation  of  the  deceased,  and  the  wild 
wails  could  be  heard  for  miles.  The  near  relatives  mourned 
for  a  long  period,  using  what  sounds  like  a  set  formula  of 
wails  and  cries  repeated  again  and  again. 

They  were  inveterate  gamblers.  Their  favorite  game  of 
chance  was  the  grass  game,  and  on  it  they  risked  every 
worldly  possession.  From  Bodega  Bay  they  secured  clam 
shells  from  which  they  chipped  white  bits.  These  were 
first  drilled,  and  then,  by  a  laborious  process,  reduced  to 
circular  disks  of  different  sizes.  This  was  Indian  money, 
or  '*kiah,"  and  was  strung  according  to  size.  It  was  and 
still  is  common  currency  among  not  only  the  Pomo  tribes 
but  their  Indian  neighbors.  Many  thousands  of  pieces  are 
coined  yearly,  and  the  Indian  money-maker  is  a  familiar 
sight  in  every  rancheria.  Their  currency  was,  if  I  may 
use  the  word,  bimetallic.  Nodules  of  magnesite  were 
mined  at  a  point  on  Cache  creek,  about  five  miles  from 
Clear  Lake.  When  subjected  to  a  slow  baking  process 
colors  something  like  agate  were  developed.  It  was  then 
shaped  into  cylinders  one  to'  three  inches  long,  and  strung 
as  ''kiah  "  was. 

Unless  the  student  is  thoroughly  conversant  with  an  In- 
dian language,  it  is  very  di£&cult  to  learn  their  myths  and 
legends  in  a  way  that  is  reliable.  We  have  a  sufl&cient 
glimpse  at  those  of  the  Pomos  to  know  that  they  were 
very  interesting,  as  were  their  religious  beliefs. 

Physically  the  Pomos  were  rather  fine  specimens. 
Especially  was  this  true  about  Clear  Lake.  Many  of  the 
men  were  six  feet  high,  of  powerful  build,  and  weighing 
one  hundred  and  eighty  to  two  hundred  and  twenty  pounds. 
The  women  were  short  and  very  broad.  Probably  the 
heavy  loads  they  carried  from  childhood  up  had  something 
to  do  with  this.  ».,  Jj 

Interesting  as  the  customs  of  the  Pomos  are,  they  would 
hardly  have  been  heard  of  away  from  the  regionlthey  in- 
habit were  it  not  that  as  basket  makers  they  are  wonder- 
fully proficient. 

Ukiah,  Cal. 

[to  bk  continued.] 


The  Club's  Supervising'  Committee,  consisting-  of  architects  Hunt 
and  Benton  and  the  president,  visited  Pala,  Sa.n  Diego  county,  Cal., 
Nov.  20  and  21,  to  arrange  for  the  immediate  repair  of  the  Old  Mis- 
sion Chapel,  a  work  made  possible  bj  the  generous  gift  of  $500  by 
Mrs.  Phebe  A.  Hearst,  and  now  as  generously  facilitated  by  the 
fine  patriotism,  of  the  people  of  Pala, 

At  Fallbrook,  the  railroad  terminus,  the  committee  was  met  by 
Ami  V.  Golsh  (a  Pala  ranchero  who  has  interested  himself  deeply  in 
the  nork),  and  driven  the  15  miles  to  the  little  hamlet  in  its  beautiful 
bolson  at  the  very  base  of  6,000-foot  Mt.  Palomar. 

The  old  chapel  W3s  found  in  much  better  condition  for  salvage 
than  had  been  feared.  The  earthquake  of  two  years  ago—which  was 
particularly  !>evere  at  this  point — ruined  the  roof  and  cracked  the 
characteristic  belfry,  which  stands  apart.  But  thanks  to  repairs  to 
the  roof  made  five  or  six  years  ago  by  the  unassisted  people,  the 
adot>e  walls  of  the  chapel  are  in  excellent  preservation.  Even  the 
quaint  old  Indian  decprations  have  suffered  almost  nothing.  The 
tile  floor  is  in  better  condition  than  at  any  of  the  other  Missions,  Init 
hardly  a  veatige  of  the  adobe-pillared  cloisters  remains.  Tiles  are 
falling  into  the  chapel  through  yawning  gaps,  and  it  is  really  dan- 
gerous to  enter.  It  will  be  necessary  to  reroof  the  entire  structure. 
The  sound  tiles  will  be  carefully  stacked  on  the  ground,  the  timt>ers 
removed,  and  a  solid  roof-structure  built,  upon  which  the  original 
tiles  will  be  replaced.  The  original  construction  will  be  followed; 
and  round  pine  logs  will  be  procured  from  Mt.  Palomar  to  replace 


*^  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

those  no  louger dependable. 
The  cloisters  will  be  re- 
built precisely  as  they  vrerr, 
and  invisible  iron  ttands 
will  be  used  to  atreng^then 
the  campanile  against  pos- 
sible later  earthquakes. 

Id  the  evening,  after   the 
committee    had    made     its 
measures  and  specification 
s  for  the  necessary  repaira, 
there  was  a  littl*   gather- 
ing in  the  little  store.     The 
immediate  valley  contains 
about  a  dozen  "American  " 
families,     and     about      aft 
many   more  Mexicans   and 
Indians,  and  about  15  heads 
^       of  these  families  were  pres- 
£      ent.      After  a   brief   state- 
"^      ment  of  the  situation,   the 
i       Palenoa  were  asked  if  they 
"^       would  help.     "I  will  give 
=      10  days'  work,"  said  John 
A.  Giddens,    the    first    to 
respond.      "  Another  ten," 
said  Luis  Carillo.    And   so 
it  went.     There  was  not  a 
man  present  who  did   not 
promise    assistance.      The 
following    additional    sub- 
scriptions   were    taken    in 
ten     minutes:       Ami     V. 
Golsh,     25      days'     work  ; 
Luis    Soberano,    15   days  ; 
Isidoro    Garcia,    10    days ; 
Teofilo    Peters    and   Lrmia 
Salmons,  5  days  each  with 
team  (equivalent  to  10  days 
for    a  man);    Dolores  Sal- 
azar,       Eustaquio      Lugo, 
Tomis     Salazar,     Ignacio 
Valenzueta,   6  days    each  ; 
Geo.  Steiger  and  Fruncisco  Ardillo,  5  days  each.    These  sutwcrip- 
tiona  amount  to  at  least  tl.75  a  day  each,  so  the  Pala  contribution 
in  work   is   full   J217.     Besidi^s  this    Mr.   Prank    A,    Salmons  sub- 
scribed $10;  at)d  other  contributions  are  expected.     It  is  also  fitting 
that  the  Club  acknou  ledt;e  gratefully  the  courtesies  which  gave  two 


THE   PAINTED   DESERT, 


453 


days  of  Mr.  Golsh's  time  to  bringing  the  committee  frdm  and  back 
to  Fallbrook,  and  the  charming  entertainment  provided  by  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Salmons.  The  entire  trip  was  heart-warming ;  and  the  liberal 
spirit  of  this  little  settlement  of  American  ranchers  and  Indians 
and  Mexicans  surpasses  all  records  in  the  Club's  history.  For  that 
matter,  while  Mr.  Carnegie  is  better  known,  he  has  never  yet 
done    anything  so   large  in  proportion. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  directors  of  the  Club,  Nov.  25,  J.  G.  Mossin  of 
the  California  Bank  was  elected  director  and  treasurer  in  place  of  the 
late  Frank  A.  Gibson  ;  and  Rev.  M.  8.  I/i^bana  of  the  Plaza  Church 
was  elected  director  in  place  of  Rev.  J.  Adams,  now  in  Spain. 

CONTRIBUTIONS  TO  THB  I^ANDMARK  WORK. 

Previously  acknowledged,  $4,373. 

New  contributions — in  labor,  A.  V.  Golsh,  $44;  Luis  Soberano,  $27; 
John  A.  Giddens,  $17.50 ;  I^uis  Carillo,  $17.50 ;  Isidoro  Garcia,  $17.50 ; 
Louis  Salmons,  $17.50;  Teofilo  Peters,  $17.50;  Dolores  Salazar, 
$10.50;  Kustaquio  Lugo,  $10.50;  Tomis  Salazar,  $10.50;  Ignacio 
Valenzuela,  $10.50 ;  Frank  A.  Salmons,  $10  ;  Francisco  Ardillo,  $9  ; 
Geo.  Steiger,  $9;  all  of  Pala.  Cash,  Hon.  Thos.  R.  Bard,  Hueneme, 
Cal.,  $2.  $1  each— Mr.  Collier,  Riverside,  Cal.;  Albert  McFarland, 
Mrs.  Albert  McFarland,  Mrs.  J.  Torrey  Connor,  Los  Angeles. 


The  Painted  Desert. 


mr  HAmmiMOM  cpnhard. 


HE  sun-iTod  loves  thee  though  the  rain-gfod 
hates, 
And   with,    stranfi^e  witchery  on  thy 
sands  he  plays ; 
Wide  ope  he  swing's  his  vast  cerulean 
gates, 
And  with  mysterious  colors  in  his  rays, 
Pours  down  his  ardent  floods  that,  tide  on 
tide. 
In  shoreless  billows  surging*  infinite, 
Fall  on  thy  bubbling  caldron,  vision-wide, 
In  quivering  waves  of  myriad-tinted  light. 

The  sun-god  loves  thee,  for  with  luminous  breath. 
Expanding  wide  from  his  ethereal  car, 

Thrilling  with  life  thy  sullen  dunes  of  death 
And  with  soft  touch  soothing  thy  hideous  scar. 

He,  god-like,  with  strange  potency,  has  traced 
A  heaven  of  beauty  on  thy  hell  of  waste. 


Flmff8ta£f,  Arts. 


One  Christmas. 


you  won't  come  in,  too,  not  even  on 
Christmas  morning:  ?  "  A  woman  stood  in 
the  doorway  of  old  San  Gabriel  Mission 
and  gleamed  under  her  lashes. 

Hec  glance  thrilled  Gillingham.     "No 

— no,  thank  you,"  he  answered  with  some 

hesitation.     "  I  have  something  to  think 

over.    But  perhaps  this  afternoon,  after 

you  get  back  to  the  hotel." 

She  lowered  her  lashes  indolently.  "Perhaps — it  is 
among  the  chances  of  life.  Goodbye — they're  all  starin^f 
at  us." 

"Gk>odbye."  Gillingham  lifted  his  hat  and  found  him- 
self standing  alone  in  the  sunshine  by  the  door.  A  few- 
last  Indian  stragglers  filed  past  him  into  the  church  as  the 
organ  lifted  its  Christmas  evangel.  The  tallyho  on  which 
he  had  come,  a  half-dozen  hacks,  and  a  number  of  nonde- 
script Mexican  vehicles  stood  huddled  under  the  shadows 
of  the  pepper-trees.  In  the  doorway  of  an  opposite  house, 
two  Chinamen  sat  smoking.  Bxcept  for  the  drowsing^ 
hackmen  and  the  dreaming  smokers,  the  sunshine  had  the 
old  adobe  village  to  itself.  Gillingham  looked  about  him 
curiously.  "A  strange  place,"  he  thought  to  himself, 
"for  her  to  come  to  die."  Then,  as  his  gaze  drew  to  the 
luminous  blue  sky  and  the  velvet-purple  Mother  Mountains, 
— "  But  not  so  bad,  either,"  he  added. 

As  he  sauntered  down  the  street,  he  found  himself  won- 
dering why  he  could  never  forget  her— and  she  ten  years 
dead.  Well,  he  had  been  true  to  her,  on  matiy  seas,  in  in- 
numerable ports  ;  and  even  now  he  wondered  whether  he 
really  meant  to  marry  that  other  woman  kneeling  back 
there  in  the  church — he  supposed  she  was  kneeling — Kosa- 
mond  Irish  always  adapted  herself  to  all  sorts  and  condi- 
tions of  circumstance.  He  wondered  whether  she  guessed 
what  he  intended  to  ask  her  that  afternoon.  It  might  be, 
for  such  questions  had  certainly  come  her  way  before.  She 
ought  to  know  the  tones  and  glances  that  preceded  them, 
he  reflected  a  trifle  cynically. 

Now,  she  was  not  like  that — but  she  was  dead.  When 
he  came  to  think  of  it,  there  was  nothing  to  think  over. 
There  was  only  Rosamond.  No  Greta — never  again.  Yet 
why  this  morning  did  those  ten  years  persist  in 
dwindling  to  a  day  ?  Why  did  her  image  rise  before  his 
vision,  so  near,  so  hauntingly  alive  ?  Well,  to  be  candid, 
he  supposed,  because  the  chances  of  life,  to  use  Rosamond's 


ONE    CHRISTMAS.  455 

phrase,  had  broug^ht  him  to  the  country  where  she  came  to 
die ;  and  ag^ain,  because  he  meant  to  marry  at  last,  and 
new  events  always  bring  back  old  ones  that  resemble  them. 
The  image  would  grow  indistinct  once  more  after  he  re- 
turned to  New  York.  He  hoped  that  he  could  induce 
Rosamond  to  be  married  in  February,  so  that  they  could  be 
in  Paris  by  March.  Rosamond  was  never  tired  of  saying 
that  she  wanted  to  live  in  Paris,  and,  so  far  as  he  was  con- 
cerned, she  could  have  her  wish.  She  knew  that,  too — per- 
haps that  was  one  reason  why  she  smiled  on  him  under  her 
lashes.  Well,  he  would  give  her  Paris,  and  she  would  give 
him  that  trick  of  the  eyelids.  Besides,  his  life  was  spent ; 
he  might  as  well  live  in  Paris  as  anywhere  else.  Now 
Greta — no,  he  could  never  imagine  Greta  there.  Perhaps 
here,  under  this  cloudless  sky — ah,  if  Greta  could  come 
back,  his  life  would  not  be  spent ! 

He  was  out  beyond  the  village  by  this  time,  in  the  midst 
of  the  ranch  country.  Orange  trees  hung  heavy  with 
fruit ;  some  of  them  were  in  blossom,  too.  He  turned  from 
the  highway  into  a  ranch  road  that  wound  about  among 
the  orange  groves,  on  through  an  old  walnut  orchard,  and 
up  a  hill.  Pine  trees  bordered  the  road  as  it  climbed  the 
hill,  and  it  gradually  became  apparent  to  Gillingham  that 
he  was  intruding  on  the  private  driveway  leading  to  a  house, 
but  he  was  coming  out  from  his  introspective  mood  and 
wanted  the  view  from  the  top,  so  he  kept  on. 

Halfway  up  the  hill  he  stood  still  and  smiled.  Just  off 
the  road,  on  a  narrow  terrace  beside  an  irrigation  brook, 
grew  a  little  orange  tree  in  flower  and  fruit,  and  not  only 
in  flowers  and  fruit,  but  decked  out  in  gilt  and  tinsel,  too — 
glittering  stars  and  tinkling  bells,  chains  and  crackers  and 
candles.  And  as  he  looked,  down  a  by-path  came  a  radiant 
figure,  slipping  a  little  on  the  pine-needles,  her  eyes  shin- 
ing, her  arms  full  of  toys. 

Gillingham  was  not  given  to  hallucinations,  but  he  was 
under  one  now.  Even  so,  had  he  once  seen  her  coming 
down  the  stairs  at  home,  one  Christmas-day  twelve  years 
ago.  She  was  not  changed  by  time,  only  younger,  rounder, 
fairer.     He  stood  rooted  to  the  spot. 

As  she  slipped  from  the  path  to  the  terrace,  she  saw 
him,  also.  Tox>s  and  trumpets  and  drums  and  little  tin 
soldiers  fell  scattered  at  her  feet.  The  two  stood  staring 
at  each  other,  as  ghosts  in  the  hereafter  might  stare. 

**  Jack  I"  the  one  ghost  whispered. 

"  Greta!"  faltered  the  other. 

**  But  you  are  drowned  I"  she  gasped. 

**  But  you  are  buried  ten  years  ago!  When  did  I  die, 
too,  and  go  to  heaven  ?" 


456  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 


'  She  recovered  herself  first.  I  am  not  dead.  Jack — if 
jou  are  Jack.  It  is  all  a  mistake — somehow.  What  does 
it  mean  ?  I  have  the  paper  that  says  joa  were  drowned 
amoflff  the  officers  of  the  JSIbe — it  has  fiprown  quite  yellow." 

He  stared  at  her.  '*  I  was  not  on  the  EHe.  I  had  just 
been  transferred  to  the  Amsterdam.  The  papers  must 
have  copied  the  old  list.  I  heard  there  was  snch  a  paper, 
too — ^I  remember" — ^he  passed  his  hand  across  his  eyes — 
"  but  yon—" 

"  But  I  ?"    She  stared  bewilderingly  in  return. 

**  You  are  not  dead  ? — not  dead  I"  he  re-echoed  the  words 
like  a  paean,  and  drew  a  step  nearer. 

She  stood  still  with  her  hands  clasped  before  her.  "  Who 
told  you  I  was  dead  ?" 

He  paused.  *'  Why,  nobody,"  he  returned  slowly.  "  No- 
body, after  all.  They  told  me  when  I  landed  from  that  six 
months'  cruise  that  you  had  been  taken  out  to  California  to 
die — that  you  could  not  live  to  reach  here — and  then — yet, 
somebody  did  tell  me  that  you  died  in  San  GabrieL  It  wais 
Harkness,  in  Sing^apore." 

Her  lips  quivered.  ^'  You  never  heard  that  I  £ot  well  ? 
You  never  wrote  yourself  to  find  anything*  out  ?" 

**  Would  your  people  have  answered  the  letter  ?" 

'^  There  are  no  people  now,  Jack,"  she  began  eagerly, 
then  stopped  short  and  stood  gazing  at  him  with  a  little 
doubtful  flush.     *  *  No  people  at  all,  only — " 
Only?" 

Only  the  children" — and  she  pointed  to  the  Christmas 
tree. 

'•What  children?" 

**  I — I  was  married,  Jack.  You  were  dead,  and  I — ah,  I 
have  been  forgetting  that  I  am  an  old  woman  after  aU  1 
'But  you  will  like  my  children." 

"'And  your  husband,  too?"  Gillingham's  voice  rang 
harsh,  as  a  man's  might  ring  who  saw  '  all  hofe  abandon  " 
suddenly  flame  above  the  closing  gates  of  paradise. 

She  shook  her  head  and  smiled,  still  with  that  little 
doubtful  look.  **I  have  been  a  widow  for  three  years.  I 
took  off  my  last  mourning  today  for  the  children's  sake." 

Then  the  gates  of  paradise  swung  wide  again,  and  Gil- 
lingham  walked  inside.  Far  and  radiant  as  the  landscape 
before  him  stretched  the  prospect  of  the  years.  He  drew 
close  and  took  her  hands  in  his.  ^^  And  for  my  sake,  too," 
he  said. 

Pautdena,  Cal. 


4S7 


A  New  Indian  Policy. 


@r^ 


HE  movement  to  aid  the  Mission  Indians  has 
^^V     taken  shape.     At  a  meeting:  in  Los  Ange- 
les, Nov.  22,  of  SO  representative  people — 
with  the  Episcopal  and  the  Catholic  bishops  of 
this  diocese  pulling:  side  by  side — it  was  unani- 
mously voted  to  form  a  permanent  league,  incor- 
porate under  the  laws  of  California,  and  begin 
and  keep  up  a  systematic  work  to  protect  and  aid 
the  Indians,  particularly  those  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia.   The  meeting  also  unanimously  adopted 
the  following  memorandum  and  memorial ;   and 
they  have  been  taken  to  Washington  by  Senator  Thomas 
A.  Bard,    who  is  deeply  and  intelligently  interested  in 
the  movement. 

To  the  Hon,  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs^  Washington^  D.  C: 

Str — In  view  of  the  fact  that  some  300  Mifision  Indiana  are  abont 
to  be  evicted  under  process  of  law  from  the  homes  their  ancestors 
have  occupied  for  centuries — ^the  date  for  all  dispossession  being  set 
for  next  month — ^December,  1901 — ^and  have  absolutely  nowhere  to  go 
when  evicted  ;  and  of  the  further  fact  that  the  entire  status  of  Indian 
tenures  in  Southern  California  is  not  and  never  has  been  satisfactory 
(though  for  twenty-five  years  the  Government  has  made  spasmodic, 
and  partial,  but  too  often  misdirected,  efforts  to  remedy  the  worst 
abuses)  we  beg  your  serious  attention  to  our  suggestion  that  a  Com- 
mission of  not  less  than  three  persons — of  whom  at  least  one  should 
be  a  reputable  citizen  of  Southern  California  and  reasonably  familiar 
with  the  specific  facts — should  be  appointed  promptly  not  only  to  deal 
with  this  case  of  imminent  importance  but  also  to  devise  a  logical 
and  permanent  adjustment  of  the  whole  question. 

Your  memorialists  speak  in  behalf  of  a  permanent  organisation 
now  preparing  to  incorporate  under  the  laws  of  California  for  the  ex- 
press purpose  of  securing  for  the  Mission  Indians  a  treatment  more 
just  and  more  rational  than  they  have  ever  yet  recei^d,  as  from,  the 
Government  and  from  individuals. 

The  more  urgent  needs  of  the  case  are  briefly  set  forth  in  the 
appended  memorial ;  but  we  cannot  too  strongly  remind  you  that  the 
entire  subject  is  one  that  needs  inteUigent  attention  and  at  once. 

Respectfully, 
(Signed): 

JosBPH  H.  Johnson  [Bishop  of  I^s  Angeles,  Episcopal] 

Gborgs  Montgombry  [Bishop  of  Los  Angeles  and  Monterey, 
CathoUc] 

Hbnry  B.  Rbstarick  [Clergyman,  Episcopal] 

Horatio  M.  Rust  [former  agent  of  the  Mission  Indians] 

Chas.  Cassatt  Davis  [Attorney] 

Mrs.  I.  V.  H.  CowLBS 

Chas.  F.  Lummis,  Chairman. 

To  the  Hon.  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs,  Washington,  D.C.: 

Sir — We,  the  undersigned  citizens  of  Southern  California,  desire 
to  bring  to  your  attention  certain  facta  as  to  the  lands  of  a  number 
of  the  Reservations  of  the  Consolidated  Tule  Mission  Agency.  The 
conditions — and  our  statement  of  them  we  are  prepared  to  verify — 


^^  LAND   OF  SUNSHiN£. 

are  mich  that  in  onr  beat  judgment  a  Commiasion  (of  at  least  three 
persona)  should  be  appointed  at  once  to  make  inquiry  into  the  matter 
and  to  report  upon  the  entire  subject.  We  would  respectfully  refer 
you  to  the  Report  of  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  for  189S, 
and  that  for  1896,  p.  130.  In  the  latter  the  Agent  states  that  tlie 
lands  in  the  Reservations  of  IrSguna,  Campo,  Iia  Posta,  Maja  and 
Manzanita  are  *'  mislocated  and  of  such  a  character  that  the  Indians 
do  not,  never  did,  and  never  will  be  able  to  live  on  them" — for  want 
of  water,  etc. 

It  is  further  stated  on  the  same  page  that  the  lands  on  which  the 
said  Indians  are  now  living  are  liable  to  be  filed  on  by  white  men, 
and  already  in  some  instances  have  been  so  taken  up.  Since  that 
report  was  written,  five  years  ago,  the  case  has  been  much  aggra> 
vated,  and  many  squatters  have  ousted  individual  Indians  from  their 
land. 

That  the  importance  of  this  matter  was  recognized  by  your  office 
is  shown  by  the  fact  that  on  Dec.  1, 1897,  it  was  recommended  to  tl&e 
Department  that  Congress  enact  legislation  authorizing  the  inclusion 
of  additional  tracts  of  land  in  the  Campo,  Maja,  Manzanita,  Cuya- 
pipe.  Twenty-nine  Palms,  and  Torres  Reservations.  This  recom- 
mendation was  transmitted  to  Congress  by  the  Department  on  Jan. 
16,  1898  (see  Senate  E<z.  Doc.  No.  54,  Fifty-fifth  Congress,  2nd 
session). 

Though  the  conditions  to  which  we  refer  were  thus  recognized  by 
the  DejMirtment,  no  legislation  whatever  to  this  end  has  as  yet  been 
enacted. 

As  to  the  inclusion  of  tracts  additional  to  the  above-mentioned 
Reservation,  we  feel  competent  to  assert — from  the  personal  investi- 
gations of  our  trusted  representatives — that  there  is  no  government 
land  near  them  upon  which  these  Indians  could  possibly  live. 

The  generic  status  of  the  Indian  lands  and  land-tenures  in  South- 
em  California  is  far  from  creditable  to  the  nation  or  such  as  kno^r 
the  facts ;  and  the  whole  matter  seriously  needs  intelligent  revision  ; 
but  the  following  cases  are  literally  in  imminent  need  of  attention. 

The  case  of  the  Indians  of  Agua  Caliente  Reservation  No.  2,  ordi- 
narily called  "  Warner's  Ranch,"  is  already  known  to  your  office  by 
the  presentation  that  has  been  made  of  it.  Here  are  150  Indians 
subject  to  eviction  in  the  coming  month  of  December,  1901,  their 
tenure  depending  solely  upon  the  courtesy  to  Govemment  of  the  suc- 
cessful claimants  under  a  California  revolutionary  land  grant.  When 
evicted,  these  150  men,  women  and  children  have  nowhere  to  go.  No 
Government  lands  are  left  in  Southern  California  upon  which  either 
Indians  or  whites  could  make  a  living.  You  are  also  aware,  by  the 
same  notification,  that  other  Indians  near  those  of  Warner's  Ranch 
are  also  in  fact  homeless.  There  are  the  75  Indians  at  San  Felipe, 
besides  the  Indians  at  Mataguay,  San  Jos^,  and  Puerto  de  la  Cruz, 
all  of  whom  are  liable  to  eviction  at  any  moment.  Unless  adequate 
action  shall  be  taken  by  Congress  immediately  upon  its  assembling, 
the  Commission  would  need  to  seek  and  report  upon  a  possible 
home  for  these  helpless  wards  of  the  Government. 

We  suggest  that  such  a  Commission  should  consider  the  possibility 
and  advisability  of  removing  the  Indians  of  I#a  Posta,  Manzanita 
and  Campo — and  perhaps  of  Cuyapipe — ^to  the  Yuma  Reservation  in 
San  Diego  county,  Csd.  The  Indians  on  the  Reservations  named 
fxequently  cross  the  desert  to  visit  the  Yumas,  and  the  Yumas  visit 
them.  If  removed  to  Yuma,  where  there  is  good  land,  these  scattered 
Indians  would  have  some  chance  to  progress.  Whether  there  is  un- 
used land  for  them  on  the  Yuma  Reservation  could  easily  be  ascer- 
tained. 


A    NEW  INDIAN   POLICY,  469 

On  the  Santa  Yaabel  No.  3  there  are  7,500  acres  or  more.  Of  this, 
nearly  all  is  upon  the  barren  side  of  the  Volcan  Mountain.  The  only 
land  which  the  Indians  cultivate — or  anyone  can  cultivate — is  of 
small  patches  in  ravines.  Some  of  these  patches  are  but  a  few 
square  yaMs  in  area.  The  rest  is  mountainous,  rocky,  has  some 
tx^es  upon  it,  and  is  suitable  only  for  cattle.  The  Indians  have  no 
cattle,  practically — nor  could  keep  them  if  they  had.  There  are  some 
patches  of  open  land  near  the  top  of  the  mountain,  fit  for  the  ^ow- 
ing* of  strain  in  favorable  years  ;  but  the  Indians  are  averse  to  living' 
up  there  because  of  the  heavy  winter  snows — something  to  which  no 
inhabitant  of  Southern  California,  white  or  Indian,  is  inured.  They 
state,  also,  that  the  places  with  water  are  already  taken  up ;  and  we 
believe  this  to  be  true  without  any  exception  germane  to  this  prob- 
lem. Why  this  worthless  mountain  land  was  ever  reserved  for  the 
Indians,  we  confess  our  inability  to  understand — unless  it  was  done 
"from  the  map"  and  in  utter  ignorance  of  the  real  topography  of 
the  country,  or  because  it  was  *'  all  that  was  left." 

In  any  event,  it  is  unfit  for  human  occupancy,  and  inadequate  to 
support  human  life— even  Indian  life. 

It  might  seem,  to  one  unfamiliar  with  the  case,  that  this  is  a  lib- 
eral provision  of  land  for  the  78  people  who  are  left.  But  those  fami- 
liar with  the  facts  know  the  land  (with  the  exception  of  a  few  incon- 
siderable parcels)  to  be  of  no  use  whatever  to  them.  There  are,  in 
the  Southwestern  deserts,  many  regions  where  1,000  acres  would  not 
support  one  human  being*.  Such  a  Commission  should,  in  our  judg- 
ment, consider  the  possibility  of  selling  off  nearly  all  this  7,500 
and  with  the  proceeds  purchasing-  for  the  Indians  a  few  hundred — 
even  200~acres  of  cultivable  land. 

The  lands  upon  which  some  of  these  Santa  Tsabel  Indians  have 
homes  are  claimed  by  the  owners  of  the  Santa  Ysabel  Rancho  ;  and 
the  Indians  are  threatened  with  speedy  eviction.  Conditions  in  many 
respects  similar  exist  at  Mesa  Grande.  There  are  on  this  Reserva- 
tion (officially  known  as  Santa  Ysabel  No.  1)  about  2,500  acres  of 
land.  By  careful  estimate,  only  150  acres  of  this  land  is  fit  to  raise 
crops,  and  it  has  to  support  206  people.  The  rest  of  the  tract  is  rea- 
sonably good  stock-land,  mountainous,  with  scattered  timber.  The 
Indians  have  just  seven  head  of  cattle,  l^vidently,  seven  cows  are 
scant  leverage  for  the  usufruct  of  2,350  acres  out  of  the  2,500  acres  of  the 
whole  Reservation.  Not  less  evident,  to  those  who  know  the  circum- 
stances, is  the  futility  of  asking  the  Indians  to  raise  more  stock 
where  their  increase  is  appropriated  by  outsiders.  In  all  probability, 
this  2,500  acres  could  be  sold  to  "American"  cattlemen,  and  the  pro- 
ceeds used  to  purchate  some  few  hundred  acres  of  tillable  lands  now 
owned  by  whites  who  25  or  30  years  ago  deliberately  drove  the  Indians 
from  their  ancient  homes  and  filed  (under  the  law)  upon  these  lands 
before  this  Reservation  was  made.  We  must  admit  that  the  Indians  are 
culpable  for  not  having  filed  before  the  whites  upon  their  own  imme- 
morial lands,  as  they  were  privileged  to  do ,  but  possibly  their  igno- 
rance of  a  law  newly  risen  over  them  may  pardon  their  neglect. 
Under  the  Treaty  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo  they  were  fully  protected ; 
and  they  and  their  friends  presumed,  until  the  evictions  at  San  Pas- 
qual,  that  occupancy  gave  a  title  which  would  be  recognized  by  the 
United  States.  A  few  hundred  acres  of  the  lands  they  once  lived 
upon  and  were  presumed  to  own  at  Mesa  Grande,  could,  we  believe,  be 
purchased  readily  and  enough  lands  obtained  for  allotment. 

Besides  the  two  Reservations  last  named,  there  is  Santa  Ysabel 
No.  2.  Here  are  reserved  over  2,000  acres  of  land — most  of  which 
is  fit  only  for  cattle — for  a  people  who  have  not  (and  for  sufficient  rea- 
sons cannot  have)  cattle. 

The  Reservation  of  Bl  Capitan  Grande  consists  of  over  17,000  acres* 


460  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

Upon  a  small  portion  of  this,  in  the  Tallej  of  the  San  Diego  liTcr, 
and  at  Cone joa,  live  132  Indians.  It  would  be  within  the  fonctions  of 
the  proposed  Commission  to  inyestigate  this  case. 

Another  matter  for  its  consideration  would  be  the  San  Pasqual 
Reservation.  Upon  this  land — comprising-  some  1,600  acres — ^the  San 
Pasqual  Indians  have  ever  lived.  Some  of  the  land  included  in  thia 
Reservation  was  patented  years  ago.  The  few  San  Pasqual  Indiana 
who  survive  liver  miles  awaj,  upon  a  barren  hillside. 

In  view  of  these  typical  facts,  and  of  the  further  fact  that  for 
fully  25  years  the  Government  has  officially  recognized  that  th» 
status  of  Indian  land-tenures  in  Southern  California  has  been,  and 
continues,  unsatisfactory,  we  respectfully  petition  for  the  appoint- 
ment of  such  a  Commission.  Furthermore,  and  for  reasons  which 
we  believe  to  be  self-evident,  we  ask  that  if  such  Commission  be  ap- 
pointed, at  least  one  of  its  members  (if  it  consists  of  three  in  all,  or 
two  if  the  whole  number  be  five)  shall  be  a  citizen  of  Southern  Cali- 
fornia, of  standing  in  this  community,  and  of  some  familiarity,  at 
least,  with  the  nature  and  needs  of  our  Indians,  and  with  the  nature 
and  values  of  lands  in  this  region.  These  things  differ  in  mmnx 
essential  details,  from  their  counterparts  in  the  East,  and  cannot  be 
intelligently  dealt  with  except  in  the  light  of  personal  familiarity 
with  the  specific  facts. 

The  Mission  Indians  who  live  on  secure  and  adequate  lands  have 
made  and  are  making  substantial  progress.  The  Indians  on  the 
verge  of  the  Desert,  isolated  and  practically  landless,  cannot  reason- 
ably be  expected  to  rise  in  the  scale  of  civilization.  Net  only  are 
they  far  removed  from  civilizing  influences,  but  the  feeling  of  inse- 
curity even  in  the  poor  homes  they  possess  is — as  we  recognize  for  a 
general  rule— enough  to  prevent  any  serious  progress.  If  a-  man  is 
to  be  civilized,  he  must  at  least  be  assured  of  land  to  live  upon,  and 
of  stability  in  his  title  to  it. 

So  serious  and  so  protracted  has  been  the  mismanagement  of  the 
Mission  Indians  of  Southern  California  that  a  permanent  association 
of  citizens  is  now  arranging  to  incorporate  under  the  laws  of  this 
State  for  the  sole  purpose  of  remedying — and  keeping  remedied — as 
many  as  possible  of  these  abuses.  This  present  document  is  the 
first  official  act  of  that  organization,  was  unanimously  adopted  at  a 
preliminary  meeting  Nov.  22, 1901,  and  is  the  line  the  association  is 
prepared  to  pursue  permanently.  We  earnestly  hope  for  your  aid  in 
the  adjustment  of  these  matters.  As  to  the  necessity  of  action — 
and  competent  action — ^we  believe  there  can  be  no  two  opinions  among 
those  who  inform  themselves  as  to  the  facts.  We  will  gladly,  both 
personally  and  as  an  organization,  render  you  any  assistance  in  our 
power  toward  a  just  and  adequate  solution  of  problems  which  for 
more  than  a  generation  have  been  neglected,  evaded  or  muddled  in  a 
manner  discreditable  alike  to  our  humanity  and  our  common  sense. 

Respectfully, 

(Signed)  Joseph  H.  Johnson,  George  Montgomery,  Henry  B^ 
Restarick,  Chas.  Frederick  Holder,  Chas.  Cassatt  Davis,  M.  S. 
Itfi^bana,  Caroline  M.  Severance  (President  emeritus  The  Fridar 
Morning  Club),  Rev.  Wm.  Horace  Day,  Grace  C.  Wotkyns,  Mrs.  C.  F. 
Holder,  Dr.  Fordyce  Grinnell,  Elizabeth  Grinnell,  lone  V.  H.  Cowles, 
Helen  C.  Wotkyns,  Mrs.  M.  R.  Kater,  Harriet  M.  Scott,  S.  E.  Lobb, 
Miss  S.  H.  Stickney,  A.  C.  Vroman,  Sallie  E.  Garrett,  Cornelia  Gates, 
Gertrude  Gates,  Sarah  B.  Earle,  Elizabeth  F.  Kennedy,  M.  D., 
Margaret  F.  Fette,  feline  B.  Hill,  Jeannie  W.  Flint,  C.  C.  Pierce, 
clergyman,  Abbie  E.  Wadleigh,  Ida  Marriott  White,  Cora  Calvert 
Foy,  Edna  Foy,  Mrs.  E.  T.  Mills,  Mrs.  J.  Torrey  Connor,  M.  L,. 
Brown,  Eva  S.  Fenyes,  Mrs.  Mary  S.  Frye,  C.  E.  Listers,  Chas.  F. 
Lrummis,  chairman. 


A   NEW  INDIAN   POLICY.  461 

LIGHI?  IN   THB  HIGH  PLACES. 

For  the  first  time  in  the  history  of  the  United  States,  a 
X)olicy  of  real  mercy,  justice  and  common  sense  as  toward 
our  Indians  is  at  last  officially  announced.  The  annual  re- 
port of  Hon.  W.  A.  Jones,  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs, 
is  a  document  at  which  the  most  hardened  student  gasps — 
as  many  hardened  non-students  will  irasp  for  the  very  oppo- 
site reason.  The  government  has  meant  well,  thousands 
of  philanthropic  people  have  meant  well,  but  they  have  not 
known  how ;  and  it  is  a  pitiful  truth  that  the  Indians' 
worst  foes  have  been  they  who  really  wished  to  do  him 
good.  They  have  wronged  and  injured  him  far  more 
deeply,  far  more  intimately,  far  more  permanently,  than 
the  Border  Ruffian  has  ;  for  the  scoundrels  who  take  a  per- 
sonal advantage  of  Indians  touch  them  but  incidentally 
and  at  one  angle ;  but  our  philanthropic  Procrustes  has 
stretched  the  whole  life  of  the  Indian  upon  his  inevitable 
bed — racking  him  out  to  fit,  if  he  was  too  short;  lopping 
off  his  feet,  if  too  long.  Careless  or  unteachable  inspec- 
tors, without  a  trace  of  knowledge  scientific,  historical  or 
humane,  have  furnished  misleading  data ;  earnest  people 
who  never  saw  an  Indian  and  would  be  afraid  of  one,  try 
to  formulate  plans  for  his  betterment ;  busy  and  indifferent 
statesmen  put  through  the  measure  of  least  resistance. 
And  the  Indian  '*pays  the  freight."  He  has  been  robbed 
of  his  lands,  his  nationality,  his  individuality;  and  now 
for  more  than  a  decade  we  have  been  robbing  him  of  his 
family.  In  all  the  history  of  the  Three  Americas  there 
has  not  been  another  Indian  policy  so  cruel  and  so  stupid  as 
our  present  educational  system.  For  more  than^  a  dozen 
years  and  in  many  places  I  have  fought  this  well-intended 
iniquity — see,  for  example,  the  seven  numbers  of  this 
magazine  from  August,  1899,  to  February,  1900,  inclusive, 
under  title  '*My  Brother's  Keeper."  In  some  circles  this 
attack  on  the  sacred  system  was  regarded  as  extreme,  ab- 
surd and  revolutionary.  But  now  comes  the  United  States 
Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  with  precisely  the  same 
<x>nclusions,  couched  in  more  official,  but  as  unmistakable 
form.  After  referring  to  other  obstacles  in  the  way  of  up- 
lifting our  Indians,  Commissioner  Jones  says  in  his  report 
(the  italics  are  mine)  : 

"  Further  observation  and  reflection  lead  to  the  unwelcome  con- 
viction that  another  obstacle  may  be  added  to  those  already  named, 
and  that  is  education.  It  is  to  be  distinctly  understood  that  it  is  not 
meant  by  this  to  condemn  education  in  the  abstract — far  from  it ; 
its  advantag^es  are  too  many  and  too  apparent  to  need  any  demonstra- 
tion here What  is  meant  is  that  the  present  Indian 

educational  system,  taken  as  a  whole,  is  not  calculated  to  produce  the 


462  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

results   so  earnestly  claimed    for   it  and  so  hopefully  anticipated 
wtwui  it  was  be^tin. 

''No  doobt  tlis  idea  will  be  received  with  some  surprise^  and  ex- 
pressions of  dissent  will  donbtless  spring  at  once  to  the  lips  of  manx 
of  those  eneag'ed  or  interested  in  Indian  work.  Nevertheless,  a. 
brief  view  of  the  plan  in  vogne  will,  it  is  believed,  convince  the 
most  skeptical  that  the  idea  is  correct. 

"  There  are  in  operation  at  the  present  time  113  boarding  schoola, 
with  an  average  attendance  of  something  over  16,000  papils,  rangin^^ 
from  5  to  21  jears  old. 

"  These  pnpils  are  fathered  from  the  cabin,  the  wickiap  and  the 
tepee.  Partly  by  cajolery  and  partly  by  threats  ;  partly  by  bribery  ami 
partly  by  fraud ;  partly  by  persuasion  and  partly  by  force ^  they  are 
induced  to  leave  their  homes  and  their  kindred,  to  enter  these  schools 
and  take  upon  themselves  the  outward  semblance  of  civilized  life. 
They  are  chosen  not  on  account  of  any  particular  merit  of  their  own, 
not  by  reason  of  mental  fitness,  but  solely  because  they  have  'fr\A\»r% 
blood  in  their  veins.  Without  regard  to  their  worldly  condition  ; 
without  any  previous  training ;  without  any  preparation  whatever, 
they  are  transported  to  the  schools — sometimes  thousands  of  miles 
away — ^without  the  slightest  expense  or  trouble  to  themselves  or 
their  people. 

"  The  Indian  youth  finds  himself  at  once,  as  if  by  magic,  trans- 
lated from  a  state  of  poverty  to  one  of  affluence.  He  is  well  fed  and. 
clothed  and  lodged.  Books  and  all  the  accessories  of  learning  are 
given  him  and  teachers  provided  to  instruct  him.  He  is  educated  in 
the  industrial  arts  on  the  one  hand,  and  not  only  in  the  rudiments, 
but  in  the  liberal  arts  on  the  other.  Beyond  '  the  three  r's'  he  is  in- 
structed in  geography,  grammar  and  history  ;  he  is  taught  drawing, 
algebra  and  geometry,  music  and  astronomy,  and  receives  lessons  in 
physiology,  botany  and  entomology.  Matrons  wait  on  him  while  he 
is  well,  and  physicians  and  nurses  attend  him  when  he  is  sick.  A 
steam  laundry  does  his  washing  and  the  latest  modern  appliances  do 
his  cooking.  A  library  affords  him  relaxation  for  his  leisure  hours, 
athletic  sports  and  the  gymnasium  furnish  him  exercise  and  recrea- 
tion, while  music  entertains  him  in  the  evening.  He  has  hot  and 
cold  baths,  and  steam  heat  and  electric  light,  and  all  the  modem 
conveniences.  All  of  the  necessities  of  life  are  given  him  and  many 
of  the  luxuries.  All  of  this  without  money  and  without  price,  or  the 
contribution  of  a  single  effort  of  his  own  or  of  his  people.  His  wants 
are  all  supplied  almost  for  the  wish.  The  child  of  the  wigwam  be- 
comes a  modern  Aladdin,  who  has  only  to  rub  the  government  lamp 
to  gratify  his  desires. 

''Here  he  remains  until  his  education  is  finished,  when  he  is  returned 
to  his  home — ^which  by  contrast  must  seem  squalid  indeed — ^to  the 
parents  whom  his  education  must  make  it  difficult  to  honor,  and  left 
to  make  his  way  against  the  ignorance  and  bigotry  of  his  tribe.  Is 
is  any  wonder  he  fails  7  Is  it  sur^sing  if  he  lapses  into  barbarism? 
Not  having  earned  his  education,  it  is  not  appreciated ;  having  made 
no  sacrifice  to  obtain  it,  it  is  not  valued.  It  is  looked  upon  as  a  right 
and  not  as  a  privilege  ;  it  is  accepted  as  a  favor  to  the  government 
and  not  to  the  recipient,  and  the  almost  inevitable  tendency  is  to  en- 
courage dependency,  foster  pride  and  create  a  spirit  of  arrogance 
and  selfishness.  The  testimony  on  this  point  of  those  closely  con- 
nected with  the  Indian  employes  of  the  service  would,  it  is  believed, 
be  interesting. 

"  It  is  not  denied  that  some  good  flows  from  this  system.  It  would 
be  singular,  if  there  did  not,  after  all  the  effort  that  has  been  made 
and  the  money  that  has  been  lavished.  In  the  last  twenty  years 
fully  $45,000,000  have  been  spent  by  the  government  alone  for  the 


A    NEW   INDIAN   POLICY,  ^^ 

education  of  Indian  papils,  and  it  is  a  liberal  estimate  to  put  the 
number  of  those  so  educated  at  not  over  20,000.  If  the  present  rate 
is  continued  for  another  twenty  years  it  will  take  over  $70,000,000 
more* 

'*  But  while  it  is  not  denied  that  the  system  has  produced  some 
(rood  results,  it  is  seriously  questioned  whether  it  is  calculated  to  ac- 
complish the  great  end  in  view,  which  is  not  so  much  the  education 
of  the  individual  as  the  lifting-  up  of  the  race. 

"  It  is  contended,  and  with  reason,  that  with  the  same  effort  and 
much  less  expenditure  applied  locally  or  to  the  family  circle,  far 
greater  and  much  more  beneficent  results  could  have  been  obtained, 
and  the  tribes  would  have  been  in  a  much  more  advanced  stage  of 
civilization  than  at  present." 

"  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  said  that  the  stream  of  returning  pupils 
carries  with  it  the  refining  influence  of  the  schools  and  operates  to 
elevate  the  people.  Doubtless  this  is  true  of  individual  cases,  and  it 
may  have  some  faint  influence  on  the  tribes.  But  will  it  ever  suffi- 
ciently leaven  the  entire  mass  ?  It  is  doubtful.  It  may  be  possible 
in  time  to  purify  a  fountain  by  cleansing  its  turbid  waters  as  they 
pour  forth  and  then  returning  them  to  their  original  source.  But  ex- 
perience is  against  it.  For  centuries,  pure  fresh-water  streams  have 
poured  their  floods  into  the  Great  Salt  L/ake,  and  its  waters  are  salt 
stiU. 

"  What,  then,  shall  be  done  ?  And  this  inquiry  brings  into  promin- 
ence at  once  the  whole  Indian  question. 

"  It  may  be  well  first  to  take  a  glance  at  what  has  been  done.  For 
about  a  generation  the  government  has  been  taking  a  very  active 
interest  m  the  welfare  of  the  Indian.  In  that  time  he  has  been 
located  on  reservations  and  fed  and  clothed ;  he  has  been  supplied 
lavishly  with  utensils  and  means  to  earn  his  living,  with  materials 
for  his  dwelling  and  articles  to  furnish  it ;  his  children  have  been 
educated  and  money  has  been  paid  him;  farmers  and  mechanics 
have  been  supplied  him,  and  he  has  received  aid  in  a  multitude  of 
different  ways.  In  the  last  thirty-three  years  over  $250,000,000  have 
been  spent  upon  an  Indian  population  not  exceeding  180,000,  enough, 
if  equitably  divided,  to  build  each  one  a  house  suitable  to  his  condi- 
tion and  furnish  it  throughout ;  to  fence  his  land  and  build  him  a 
bam ;  to  buy  him  a  wagon  and  team  and  harness ;  to  furnish  him 
plows  and  the  other  implements  necessary  to  cultivate  the  ground, 
and  to  g^ve  him  something  besides  to  embellish  and  beautify  his 
home.  It  is  not  pretended  that  this  amount  is  exact,  but  it  is  suffi- 
ciently so  for  the  purpose  of  this  discussion. 

"  What  is  his  condition  today?  He  is  still  on  his  reservation  ;  he 
is  still  being  fed  ;  his  children  are  still  being  educated  and  money  is 
still  being  paid  him  ;  he  is  still  dependent  upon  the  government  for 
existence  ;  merchants  wait  on  him  and  farmers  still  aid  him ;  he  is 
little,  if  any,  nearer  the  goal  of  independence  than  he  was  thirty 
years  ago,  and  if  the  present  policy  is  continued  he  will  get  little,  if 
any,  nearer  in  thirty  years  to  come.  It  is  not  denied  that  under  this, 
as  under  the  school  system,  there  has  been  some  progress,  but  it  has 
not  been  commensurate  with  the  money  spent  and  effort  made." 

WHAT  THIS  MKANS. 

This  means,  in  log^ic — and,  let  us  fervently  trust  in  fact 
— the  death-knell  of  the  great  '*  print-factory"  firoyernment 
schools,  remote  from  the  Indian  home,  and  looking^  upon 
the  Indian  parents  merely  as  breeders  of  pupils  of  whom 
they  are  to  be  robbed  to  make  grist  for  the  salary-mill.     It 


464  LAND   OF   SUNSHtNE. 

means  looking  toward  the  only  sane,  decent,  humane  and 
scholarly  solution  of  the  problems  of  Indian  education — 
schools  at  home,  where  Indian  boy  and  girl  can  love  their 
parents  and  help  them  up  the  hill  of  civilization ;  sensible 
schools,  which  shall  teach  things  it  does  some  good  to 
know,  and  not  the  Carlisle  curriculum  which  would  be 
idiotic  were  they  not  so  tragic  in  their  results.  It  means 
schools  designed  a  little  more  for  the  good  of  the  Indians, 
and  a  little  less  exclusively  for  the  ease  and  salaries  of  their 
teachers.  It  means,  in  fact,  the  beginning  of  a  rational 
and  just  policy — which  we  have  never  before  had.  And 
for  so  much  we  may  not  only  pray,  but  reckon  it  time  to 
go  to  work. 

For  over  two  years  I  have  had  the  indefinable  feeling" 
that  the  times  were  ripening.  I  felt  it  even  when  the 
National  Convention  of  Indian  teachers  met  in  Los  An- 
geles under  the  weighty  thumb  of  Major  Pratt,  and  out- 
raged every  scholar  who  cares  for  and  knows  about  these 
things.  And  that  feeling  has  been  growing — but  I  did 
not  expect  to  see  so  soon  an  Indian  Commissioner  so  close  to 
the  full  daylight. 

The  times  are  truly  ripe  for  us  to  be  done  with  this  long- 
disgrace.  We  have  a  President  who  knows  and  cares ;  we 
have  an  Indian  Commissioner  who  is  not  wax  in  the  hands 
of  that  magnificent  and  misguided  personality  which  has 
been  in  fact  for  a  decade  or  more  our  Indian  Policy — that 
tremendous  energy  without  learning,  that  fine  character 
without  a  sentiment,  that  machine  for  making  machines. 
Major  Pratt  of  the  Carlisle  Government  Indian  School.  No 
man  has  worked  harder  for  the  Indians  ;  and  no  fifty  men 
in  America  have  ever  done  them  so  much  harm.  He  will 
be  up  in  arms  at  this  report.  He  will  use  all  his  really 
astonishing  power  to  nullify  it.  But  now  our  time  has 
come  ;  and  against  him  will  be  every  man  and  woman  who 
cares — for  our  own  sake,  if  not  for  the  Indian's — that  we  do 
justice  ;  and  who  believes  that  any  system  is  accurst  whose 
corner-stone  is  the  breaking-up  of  the  family. 

The  Indian  Right's  Association  in  the  East  is  doing 
noble — if  occasionally  a  bit  Eastern — work ;  the  new 
League  now  forming  in  California  (and  it  will  be  com- 
posed of  several  thousand  prominent  people),  will  labor  no 
less  earnestly,  and,  if  possible,  on  somewhat  broader  and 
more  expert  lines.  And  the  time  has  come  when  we  shall 
win  if  we  '*lean  on."  C.  P.  L. 


EARLY    WESTERN    HISTORY.  *6S 

SEGVNDA 

RELACIOM. 

DE  LA  GRANDIOSA  CON- 

VERSION  QVE  HA  AVIDO  ENEL  NVEVO  MEXICa 

Enbitdj  por  cl  Padre  Fray  Eftcvide  PcrcaiCaftudid  de  |ai  Piovinciu 

del  NiiCTo  Me>ico,al  tntry  Reverendo  C.f  i.  Fraacil'to  ie  Apodzc«, 

ComilTarJo  Geaeral  dc toda UNucva  F fpara ,  dc  la  Ordcn  de 

S.F>i(Trco,dandolectieoudelella(lodea(]uella)conveE' 

tioQMi  J  en  paiticuUr  de  lo  fiKcdulo  en  el  defpacho 

(|nc  Ic  hico  pin  aquellu  paites 


Ano  itfjj. 


IL  PadicFra]rFnacilcodePomii,varonapro> 
vado  en  vittud  yfanudadi'Maegro  deNovi* 
CKM  ^tte  fuc  fe/aaiiMen  Saa  Funcifco  de  Me< 
f  iico,qutncadopcactta[lacienaadcbnic.ref< 
3  uuni  an.% altnai, y  delcubrir mucha gcoie. 
k   DrrpidwdoCcdeliibueaDiigoelfadicFr.R^ 

iciae.faliode  Zibolacondoa  Rdjgiolot.Fray 
Andru  Cudemi  Saccrdote^y  Fr.Ctiifloval  da 
UCoqcepcionReUgoro  Lf^o^ApofloJicamc* 
te.coR  fiu Cnizei al caello , y  baidonet cti  b) 
manat,a  <|Micnei«c6paDava  dow  lbldadoi,mai  por  piedad  de  no  desat 
tan  raouimprciraqucparadcfca(ayguarda,(]iKcraainyItffliudaua. 
ja  tiui  gcntc(,ti  didhai  en  Ui  irmas,  como  porfiadat  en  lot  cobatci. 
CamiMDilo  porftiifOTnadis.llcgatoii  a  la  PtoTincia  dc  Mo(]iii,diadel 
gloiioTtf  fan  Bernarde(qiieei  el  apellido  que  aoracicneaqucl  pueblo,) 
dli  apanado  de  la  t ilia  de  (oi  Efpanolci  ocbcnCa  IcBuat.ticrM  mat  tern 
plada.y  patecida  alade  Efpana  en  lo*  riuioi  jr  remiUu  q^qbi  Te  dan. 

Cojcfc 


466  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

Early  Western  History. 

From  Documents  Never  Before  Published  in  English, 

PSREA'S  SECOND  "REPORT"  ON  NEW  MEXICO  IN  1633-3. 

|A|#HB  following  intallment  conclades  the  important  "  Relacfon" 
KS^I  *  of  Fray  E^st^an  de  Perea,  Custodian  of  the  Missions  of  New 
X  Mexico  in  1632-^,  succeeding'  the  inimitable  Fray  Alonao 
de  Benavides.  It  will  be  observed  that  though  the  printed 
document  bears  date  of  1633,  toward  the  last  it  says  the  baptism  at 
^ufii  was  on  St.  Augustin's  day,  "  of  this  year  of  1629  " — deste  ano 
de  1629. 

SECOND 

R  E  P  O  R 

or    THE    MAGNIFICENT    CON- 

VERSION    WHICH     HAS    BEEN    HAD     IN     NEW    MEXICO. 
Sent  by  the   Father   Fray  Estevan   de  Perea,  Custodian  of  the  Provinces 
of  New  Mexico,  to  the  very  Reverend  Father  Fray  Francisco  de  Apodaca* 
Commissary-General   of  all    New    Spain;    of    the  Order  of 
St.  Francis ;  giving  him  an  account  of  the  state  of  those  conver- 
sions, and,  in  particular,  of  what  has  happened  in  the  Expedition 

which  was  made  to  those  regions. 

T  WiUM  permission  of  the  SsMor  Vicar-  Gentral^  and  of  the  SeMor  Alcalde  Don  Ahmso  de  BolaMas. 
Printed  in  Seville^  by  Luvs  EstufiHan^  in  the  Street  of  the  Palms.    Tear  of  rbs3. 

The  Father  Fray  Francisco  de  Porras,  a  holy  man  approved  m  virtue 
and  sanctity,  Master  of  Novices  that  was  for  six  years  in  [the  mon- 
astery of]  St.  Francis  in  Mexico,  wishing  to  penetrate  the  country 
beyond,  relieve  more  souls  and  discover  much  people;  taking  leave  of 
his  e^ood  friend  the  Father  Fray  Roque,  set  forth  from  Cibola  with 
two  religious — Fray  Andres  Gutierrez,  Priest,  and  Fray  Chistoval 
[misprint  for  Crist6val]  de  la  Concepcion,  I^ay  Religious — Apostoli- 
cally,  with  their  crucifixes  at  the  neck  and  staffs  in  their  hands. 
Twelve  soldiers  accompanied  them — more  for  piety,  not  to  leave  so 
saintly  an  enterprise,  than  as  a  defense  and  guard,  which  was  very 
limited  as  against  so  many  peoples,  as  dextrous  at  arms  as  stubborn 
in  combat.  Traveling  by  their  day's  journeys,  they  arrived  at  the 
Province  of  Moqui  [on  the]  day  of  the  glorious  St.  Bernard  (which  ia 
the  title  that  pueblo  now  has).  It  is  eighty  leagues  removed  from 
the  Town  of  the  Spaniards ;  a  more  temperate  country  and  like  to 
that  of  Spain  in  the  fruits  and  grains  which  yield  here.  Much  cot- 
ton is  harvested ;  the  houses  are  of  three  stories,  well  planned ; 
their  inhabitants  great  laborers  and  solicitous  in  their  work.  Among- 
them  the  vice  of  intoxication  is  a  great  reproach.    To  divert  them- 


EARLY    WESTERN   HISTORY.  ^7 

■ 

aelyea  they  have  their  appointed  games,  and  a  race  where  they  run 
with  gfreat  lightness.  Here  they  received  the  Fathers  with  some 
Inkewarmnessy  because  the  demon  was  trying  by  all  ways  to  impede 
and  hinder  the  promulgation  of  the  Divine  law,  as  he  attempted  at 
this  season.  And  although  in  their  oracles  he  speaks  to  those  minis- 
ters of  his,  and  they  see  him  in  his  formidable  aspect,  now  he  took 
for  instrument  an  Apostate  Indian  from  the  Christian  pueblos;  who, 
going  on  ahead,  said  to  them  of  Moqui  that  some  Spaniards,  whom 
they  would  see  directly,  were  coming  to  bum  their  pueblos,  rob  their 
belongings  and  behead  their  children ;  and  that  the  others  with 
crowns  and  robes  were  so  many  liars,  and  that  they  must  not  consent 
that  they  should  put  water  on  their  heads,  because  at  once  they 
would  be  sure  to  die. 

These  news  so  disturbed  [alteraron]  theMoquinos  that  they  secretly 
summoned  in  their  favor  the  neighboring  Apaches,  with  whom  at 
that  time  they  had  truce.  This  uneasiness  our  people  felt  upon  en- 
tering the  place ;  wherewith  they  roused  their  watchfulness  so 
greatly  that  they  did  not  sleep  in  all  the  night,  guarding  against 
the  sudden  assault.  The  second  night,  the  soldier  who  was  on  sen- 
try perceived  the  murmur  of  people.  He  called  his  companions,  who 
briefly  made  themselves  ready,  with  their  horses  caparisoned,  by  the 
time  the  opposing  Captains  arrived  to  catch  them  unprepared.  And 
seeing  them  on  their  guard,  they  [the  Indians]  asked  them  "  how  [it 
was]  they  were  not  sleeping."  And  the  Spaniards,  knowing  their 
treachery  and  malice,  responded  "that  the  soldiers  of  Spain  did  not 
sleep,  for  that  they  were  prepared  to  defend  themselves  and  injure 
their  enemies."  Next  night  they  did  the  same  ;  and  being  unable  to 
endure  the  waylayings  of  the  Indians,  they  menaced  them,  saying 
that  if  they  attempted  to  damage  such  noble  guests  as  they  had,  the 
Governor  would  come  with  his  power  upon  them,  to  lay  waste  and 
bum  their  pueblos  and  lands.  Seeing  their  bad  intention  understood,, 
[the  Indians]  went  away  confounded.  In  this  time  the  Religious, 
soldiers  of  the  Evangel,  with  the  harness  of  prayer  armed  them- 
selves to  subject  and  conquer  the  tricks  of  Lucifer  ;  and  animated 
by  that  valorous  impulse  which  heaven  communicates  to  its  Evan- 
gelizing messengers,  setting  little  value  on  the  cavilings  in  opposi- 
tion, they  sallied  through  the  streets  preaching.  At  the  resonant 
echoes  of  which,  men  and  women  came  quickly,  compelled  by  a  secret 
admonition.  And  not  alone  those  of  the  pueblo,  but  from  the  sur- 
rounding valleys  and  neighboring  mountains.  And  when  these  holy 
men  saw  that  the  Indians  were  already  arriving  without  fear,  they 
gave  them  some  toys  which  they  had  brought — such  as  hawks'  bells, 
beads,  hatchets  and  knives — that  they  might  be  assured  that  [the 
Fathers]  came  more  to  give  unto  them  than  to  ask  from  them.  But 
the  Indians  excused  themselves,  for  they  had  accepted  that  bad  prog- 
nostication of  the  Indian  who  told  them  that  upon  receiving  any- 
thing they  would  be  sure  to  die.  But  they  came  forth  from  all  thei^ 
doubts  and  were  converted  to  our  holy  Faith,  by  a  great  miracle 


^^  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

which  onr  Lord  wrought  in  that  pueblo  through  the  medinin  of  his 
aenrants.  Of  the  which,  for  now,  report  is  not  made,  since  it  has 
not  come  authenticated. 

Returning  to  the  Father  Fra j  Roque  de  Figueredo,  in  Zuni  where  he 
was,  the  General  Adversary  made  the  same  tradition*;  saying  to  the 
Indians,  with  menaces,  that  they  should  eject  this  strange  Priest 
from  their  country.   They  put  it  into  operation,  all  manifesting  them- 
selves in  such  manner  that  already  they  did  not  assist,  as  they  vrere 
wont,  to  bring  water  and  wood,  nor  did  one   [of  them]   appear.     By 
night  is  heard  great  din  of  dances,  drums  and  caracoles,  which 
among  them  is  signal  of  war.    And  holding  it  [war]  for  certain,  al- 
though he  was  already  prepared  for  every  adversity,  he  [i.  e..  Fray 
Roque]  was  then  in  the  surrounding  peril  with  the  most  lively  con- 
cern.   But  God  succors  his  own  in  their  greatest  necessity.    And  so, 
as  he  [Fray  Roque]  was,  one  night  of  these,  beseeching  God  with 
fervent  petitions  that  He  would  communicate  His  eternal  light  to  the 
abyss  of  that  darkened  people — at  the  midnight  he  saw  enter  his  re- 
treat two  Indians  of  tall  and  gallant  stature,  to  appearance  Captains, 
with  plumes  of  feathers  and  with  weapons  prepared,  ready  for  war. 
Well  did  the  famous  Soldier  of  the  Church  understand  that  that 
crisis  was  the  last  of  his  life ;  and  going  upon  his  knees  he  offered  it 
[his  life]  to  God,  with  more  desire  to  suffer  triumphantly  than  fears 
of  the  fatal  blow  at  the  barbarous  hand  of  the  Indians.    The  which, 
gathering  from  the  demonstrations  of  the  Religious  that  he  awaited 
death  from  them,  reassured  him  by  signs — giving  him  peace  with 
their  arms  crossed.    Fray  Roque  gave  them  his  [arms],  with  benign 
and  loving  face.    He  called  the  interpreter,  who  was  asleep ;  and 
through  him  manifested  to  them  that  his  coming  from  such  remote 
regions  to  theirs  was  not  with  a  mind  to  quit  them  of  their  belong- 
ings, because  he,  and  those  of  his  Order  [Religidn]  desired  to  be  the 
poorest  in  the  world  ;  that  rather  he  brought  them  their  remedy  and 
riches  for  the  true  knowledge  of  one  sole  God  in  Trinity  of  Persons ; 
and  that  this  sole  Grod  was  so  powerful  and  strong  that  having  Him 
on  their  side  that  would  be  protected  and  defended  as  well  against 
their  spiritual  as  their  corporal  enemies ;  and  that  as  God  was  the 
eternal  Truth,  this  shield  sufficed  that  they  [need]  not  fear  the  noc- 
turnal shades  of  those  false  gods  they  were  adoring.  They,  with  the 
most  civil  words  they  knew,  gave  him  thanks  for  the  great  toil  of 
having  come  to  their  country,  without  more  interest  nor  profit  than 
to  seek  their  well-being  and  repair ;    that  because  they  understood 
it,  they  had  come  to  supplicate  him,  as  Caciques  and  lords  (as  they 
were)  of  some  settlements  five  leagues  from  there,  that  he  would 

hold  it  l>est  to  go  to  their  pueblos,  where  they  wished  to  have  him,  to 
regale  and  serve  him ,  and  that  he  should  not  remain  there  [in  Ci- 
bola] with  a  people  that  met  his  paternal  love  with  so  much  ingrati- 
tude. In  these  colloquies,  and  others  upon  the  matter,  they  stayed 
until  the  day ;  but  at  its  first  resplendency  they  took  their  leave  of 
the  Father  Fray  Roque,  saying  to  him :   ''Rest,  Father ;  do  not  be 

*Doabtle«8  ntispriot  for  iraieioftt  treachery. 


EARLY    WESTERN    HJSTORY.  -^9 

anxious,  and  leave  it  in  our  charge  to  talk  to  and  reclaim  the  Cap- 
tains of  this  pueblo."  Well  did  the  Father  Fray  Roque  perceive 
that  this  visit  came  guided  by  heaven ;  and  thus  he  remained  singing 
the  mercies  of  God  for  so  g^eat  favor  in  such  an  exigency.  The 
Caciques  fulfilled  their  word,  and  came  next  day  with  the  Principales 
and  Captains  of  the  pueblo,  beseeching  pardon  for  their  ill  hospi- 
tality, confessing  that  the  oracle  of  their  god  had  tricked  them,  that 
it  had  told  them  that  with  the  water  of  Baptism  they  were  sure  to 
die.  And  if  it  is  well  considered  how  the  words  of  the  Demon  are 
equivocal,  he  meant  to  tell  them  that  they  must  die  for  their  fault 
and  sin,  and  for  his  dominion,  since  with  the  water  of  Baptism  a  soul 
is  bom  again  to  a  new  life  of  grace.  To  this  they  added  that  not 
only  they  but  all  that  pueblo  wished  to  be  washed  with  holy  Baptism. 
The  Father  Fray  Roque  received  them  with  amicable  caresses,  and 
began  at  once  to  instruct  them  and  teach  them  in  the  Faith ;  princi- 
pally the  Caciques,  who  remained  with  him  some  days.  And  seeing 
that  they  were  well  catechised  and  sufficiently  fit,  he  disposed  the 
Baptism  of  them.  And  to  shew  forth  this  act,  he  ordered  to  be  built 
in  the  plasa  a  high  platform,  where  he  said  Mass  with  all  solemnity, 
and  baptized  them  [on  the]  day  of  the  glorious  St.  Augustin  of  this 
year  of  1629;  singing  the  Te  Deum  JLaudamos,  &c.;  and,  through 
having  so  good  a  voice,  the  Father  Fray  Roque — accompanied  by  the 
chant — caused  devotion  in  all.  He  gave  the  name  of  Augustin  to  the 
most  principal  [man],  baptizing,  jointly  with  him,  other  principales ^ 
and  eight  infants,  children  of  Christians  [who  had]  fled  from  the  Camp 
of  the  Spaniards,  in  sight  of  that  copious  multitude  which  in  suspense 
watched  the  celebration  of  those  two  Sacraments  adorned  with  such 
pure  ceremonies.  The  most  principal  Cacique,  already  called  "  Don 
Augustin,"  when  done  with  being  baptized,  turned  around  to  the 
people  with  singular  spirit  and  made  a  great  exhortation,  animating 
those  present  to  receive  so  good  a  law  and  so  good  a  God ;  and  in 
order  that  they  should  come  forth  from  their  error,  that  they  should 
perceive  that  he  had  had  himself  baptized,  and  that  he  had  not  died, 
but  rather  felt  himself  in  great  rejoicing  and  courage  in  his  heart, 
wherewith  he  judged  that  he  was  more  valiant  than  before.  Whereat 
all  cried  out  with  one  voice,  begging  to  be  Christians,  and  that  the 
Father  would  teach  them  that  holy  law.  In  the  culture  of  these 
primitive  flowers  of  this  new  Church,  and  in  offering  to  God  so  many 
souls,  converted  with  his  labor  and  holy  zeal,  the  Father  Fray  Roque 
remains.  Happy  employments  of  so  well-aimed  purposes ;  since  he 
has  found  life  in  Christ,  who  determined  to  lose  it  for  love  of  Him. 

In  this  time  the  Apaches  [misprint  Apoches] — the  fiercest  and 
most  valorous  Nation  that  is  known  in  those  parts ;  so  extended  that 
it  reaches  encircling  the  perimeter  of  New  Mexico — have  come  to 
ask  for  peace  with  the  Christian  Indians,  and  Spaniards ;  and, 
jointly,  for  Ministers  who  shall  baptize  them ;  although  there  are 
already  two  [Ministers]  among  them.  And  [it  is]  of  much  import- 
ance, for  bridling  the  daring  with  which  they  did  much  damage. 

They  gave  to  the  Fathers  twelve  Indians  who  should  come  with 
them ;  and  a  boy,  that  he  might  learn  the  Castilian  tongue  and 
teach  them  his  own,  whom  they  brought  to  the  Villa  of  Santa  F^, 
where  they  were  received  with  general  applause,  due  to  the  triumph 
of  their  heroic  enterprise.  There  they  arranged  to  provide  wagons 
and  the  other  requisites  to  return  to  the  Humanos  the  coming  March. 

The  country  is  abundant  and  fecund  in  herds  and  fruits ;  so  much 
that  from  one  fanega  of  wheat  a  hundred  are  harvested.  Copious 
in  metals  and  exquisite  stones ;  and  in  silver,  so  much  that  it  yields 
eight  ounces  by  quicksilver  [treatment]  and  4  marks  by  smelting. 
This  is  what  there  is  to  report  at  present  of  what  has  happened  m 
this  expedition.  1[T«aus  D90. 


With  tfais  number,  the  name  under  which,  through  full 
fifteen  volumes,  the  magazine  has  made  the  friends  it 
values — and  some  enemies  it  is  no  less  glad  of — serves  for 
the  last  time.  This  is  the  ultimate  Lakd  op  STmsaiNB — 
under  that  title.  The  next  number,  January,  will  be  Out 
Wbst,  and  of  the  size  of  Harper's.  On  one  of  the  adver- 
tising pa^es  of  the  present  number,  will  be  found  a 
reduced  facsimile  of  the  new  cover,  showing  the  sub- 
title and  motto. 

That  neither  friends  nor  enemies  may  be  misled,  it  is 
well  to  state  here  and  now  that  the  Land  of  Sunseokb 
has  not  sold  out,  tired  out,  gone  out,  nor  changed  its  mind. 
It  has  simply  grown  up.  Its  soul  goes  marching  on — in  a 
bigger  and  better  body  and  with  longer  strides.  The  men 
who  have  made  it  will  continue  to  make  it  under  the  new 
name  ;  with  more  power  to  their  elbow  ;  with  strong  new 
men  enlisted  that  agree  with  them ;  with  a  sudden — some 
would  say  with  a  providential — opening-out  of  Opportunity 
to  do  the  same  things  better  and  to  do  more  of  them. 
Under  the  new  form  it  will  still  be  the  magazine  you  have 
liked  (or  disliked) — "only  more  so."  Through  its  years  of 
hard  up-hill  fighting  it  has  never  budged  an  inch  from  its 
path.  It  has  never  "run  after  people,"  but  trudged  aloog 
with  its  eye  on  the  goal.  Wherefore  it  is  some  satisfaction 
to  succeed.  Now  the  gradients  and  the  people  both  slope 
its  way.  Even  to  those  whose  faith  has  never  wavered,  it 
is  literally  wonderful  how  many  and  how  great  currents 
are  at  last  running  in  the  direction  the  magazine  is  ap- 
pointed to  go.  It  believed  rivers  must  run  that  way,  and 
simply  went  on  across  the  ox-bow.  Back  yonder,  the  cur- 
rent ran  north;  but  over  here  it  is  headed  for  the  ultimate 
ocean. 

There  would  seem  to  be  something  wrong  at  a 

"*  wedding  at  which  there  were  not  a  few  tears  for 

the  girl  that  has  Grown  Up.     There  is  a  certain 

sentiment  in  us  of  regret  that  she  wouldn't  stay  little.    We 

are  used  to  her  so — and  to  call  her  MoUie.     But  they  are 

not  hot  tears.     The  main  thing  is  that  she  shall   have 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN.  471 

gftown  up  Tvell;  that  she  shall  not  chang^e  her  nature  when 
she  changfes  her  name  ;  and  that  the  new  name  shall  mean 
her  greater  happiness  and  her  broader  duties. 

The  Lion  has  no  fault  to  find  that  more  than  a     ^hk 
few  friends  of    this  his  child   are    regretful  for  ^'^^'^hanck 

her  change  of  name.  It  would  be  a  pity  otherwise. 
He  is  a  little  sorry  himself — that  it  wasn't  changed  before 
they  got  so  wonted  to  it.  There  has  not  been  an  hour  in 
seven  years  in  which  he  has  not  intended  to  change  it 
when  the  time  should  be  ripe.  The  time  now  is ;  and  the 
specific  change  is  his  choice.  The  little  **boom"  folio 
monthly  as  which  the  magassine  originated  (without  com- 
plicity of  his)  was  excellently  titled  by  a  name  smacking 
about  equally  of  Sunday  School  and  Immigration  Bureau ; 
and  six  months  later  (when  it  took  on  a  new  editor  and  a 
new  complexion)  was  no  time  for  swapping  names — nor  did 
it  seem  wise  in  the  years  of  stress.  It  may  be  that  in  these 
years  the  words  have  acquired  some  other  associations ; 
but  the  old  ones  also  cling.  The  Lion  has  nothing  against 
Chambers  of  Commerce  or  Sunday  Schools ;  but  the  maga- 
zine is  not  an  organ  of  either  of  them.  Furthermore,  four- 
word  titles  are  not  only  bad  art  but  a  public  nuisance — 
and,  like  stilted  names  for  children,  sure  to  be  nicknamed 
**for  short."  As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  has  been  oftenest 
called  * 'Sunshine" — which  is  a  little  less  suggestive  of  boom 
literature,  but  a  little  more  as  if  it  were  a  Christian  En- 
deavor, or  a  Serial  Smile  by  the  Lion's  friend  and  neigh- 
bor, Robert  J.  Burdette.  And  while  perhaps  either  would 
be  better,  it  is  neither. 

Now,  anyone  who  still  insists  on  weeping  for  the  bride 
— may  do  so  while  the  procession  comes  back  down  the  aisle. 
Like  a  proper  girl,  she  has  grown  up,  always  meaning  to 
change  her  name  sometime.  She  has  changed  it — and  the 
old  folks  think  she  has  chosen  well. 

In  selecting  a  new  name  for  the  magazine  there  what 
are  several  things  to  reckon  with ;  and  they  have  ^^^^t^ 

been  digesting  here  for  some  years.  It  must  be  a 
name  not  already  in  use  ;  it  ought  to  stand  for  something  ; 
it  ought  to  indicate — as  clearly  as  may  be  in  a  few  letters 
— what  it  stands  for ;  it  must  be  dignified,  short,  character- 
istic, significant ;  and  it  must  be  a  clear  improvement  on 
the  "maiden  name"  it  supplants.  That  many  people  have 
not  had  to  think  of  all  these  things  is  evident  from  just  so 
many  letters  the  Lion  has  received.     He  Aas  had  to. 

The  Springfield  Republican,  one  of  the  most  in-     appkovai, 
fluential  newspapers  in  the  East,  says  in  the  course  '^^^^««*»,^«r 

of  a  generous  comment  on  the  proposed  change : 


472  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

"  The  jirosperitj  of  this  excellent  mag^asine  is  welcome,  and  so  is 
its  new  title,  not  only  because  of  its  wider  meaning*  but  because  it  is 
so  much  more  easily  used.  The  statement  of  its  ambitions,  however, 
suggests  that  if  it  were  to  be  called  the  Pacific  Monthly  it  would  be 
the  nearer  antithesis  of  the  Atlantic  Monthly ^  and  the  comparison 
and  contrast  would  be  the  more  interesting.  Since  the  Overland  fell 
out  of  the  ranks,  a  magazine  of  the  real  West,  not  our  inland  West, 
has  been  much  wanted,  and  The  I^ and  op  Sunshinb  has  done  much 
to  show  the  direction  and  temper  in  which  its  work  should  be  accom- 
plished. Its  editorial  exxnression  has  been  strongly  for  the  nobler 
principles  of  the  United  States." 

WHY  With  due  and  grrateful  deference  to  the  Republi-- 

^''^  raw  and  its  opinion,  the  Lion  expects  to  convert 

both.  Pacific  Monthly  is  the  first  name  he  thoug-ht 
of,  years  ago — and  the  last  he  would  adopt.  Western  im- 
modesty may  be  visible,  but  it  is  not  structural.  If  no- 
where in  the  world  there  is  less  worship  of  the  conventions 
which  are  mere  fetiches,  neither  is  there  anywhere  in  the 
world  more  respect  for  the  Enduring  Thing.  The  last 
thought  of  the  Lion  would  be  to  challenge  "comparison 
and  contrast"  with  the  Atlantic^  for  which  he  retains  much 
of  his  New  England  awe — and  something  of  his  New  Kag-- 
land  eyesight.  It  was  the  first  High  Place  to  print  one  of 
his  youthful  poems;  its  bound  volumes  from  Vol.  I.  onward, 
in  the  old  familiar  cloth,  are  treasures  of  his  shelves.  And 
he  knows  its  present  circumstances.  It  is  determined  and 
enabled  by  its  environment ;  an  expression  of  quiet  culture 
in  the  afternoon  years  of  ease.  It  is  not  quite  reasonable 
to  compare  any  other  magazine  with  it  whatsoever ;  least 
of  all  a  little .  Western  magazine  which  is  come  to  bring 
not  peace  but  the  sword ;  which  stands  not  for  culture  in 
the  easy  chair  but  for  what  culture  can  be  kept  in  a  noble 
strife  ;  fighting  its  own  way  and  hewing  a  thoroughfare 
for  some  causes  it  believes  in — not  as  academic  dreams  but 
as  vital  needs  for  better  individual  and  national  living. 

PBBCISBI.Y  In  the  things  money  will  buy — and  beautiful 

^^^  coMPKTB      writing  by   famous  authors  is  one  of  them — the 

magazine  can  not  now  compete  with  those  who 
have  far  more  money.  In  the  things  only  age  and  a  huge 
population  can  give,  it  is  not  even  certain  that  it  cares  to 
compete.  It  selected  its  own  specific  and  exclusive  field  so 
as  not  to  compete  with  the  elbowing  and  somewhat  stam- 
peded multitude  of  Eastern  magazines  ;  and  it  has  stuck 
to  its  field,  which  it  now  enlarges  only  in  kind.  But  in 
that  field  it  can  be  quite  as  careful  to  prefer  solids  to 
prettv  shams  ;  quite  as  ready  to  find  out  and  draw  out  those 
who  '  have  it  in  them  "  for  literature  or  scholarship.  Just 
as  well  as  the  big  ones,  it  can  choose  the  relative  best  of 
the  material  offered  ;  just  as  well  as  they,  discourage  dis- 
honest work — and  draw  that  definition  quite  as  sharply. 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN,  *73 

AH  this  mig"ht  perhaps  be  reason  enougfh ;  but     Qvrtn 
there  is  other — even  were  there  not  a  frontier  sense  *^^%nowoh 

of  humor  in  the  serene  Atlantic  named  for  the 
stormy  ocean,  and  this  strenuous  magfazine  named  for  the 
ocean  that  is  Placid.  The  Republican  may  not  have 
realized  that  out  here  on  the  Pacific  Coast  the  word 
** Pacific"  has  not  all  the  thrill  of  surprise.  There  are 
Pacific  bakeries,  steamships,  hotels,  dairies,  railroads, 
saloons,  churches,  stables,  Universities,  streets,  transfer 
companies,  cigfar-stands,  corsets — by  the  ocean.  There 
are  floods  of  Pacific  printing  offices,  bookstores,  almanacs, 
periodicals ;  daily,  weekly,  monthly  and  occasional  Pacifies ; 
Pacifies  religious,  secular,  christian  science^  and  osteo- 
pathic.    There  is  at  least  one  Pacific  Monthly  at  present. 


»( 


Out  West,"  on  the  other  hand,  covers  precisely     b^* 
what  this  magazine  means  to  cover-and  in  the  *™,^^ 

way  it  means  to  cover  it.  It  apes  no  one,  warms- 
over  no  one's  wit,  invites  no  comparisons.  It  is  new, 
strong,  significant  and  cannot  be  nicknamed  In  two  plain 
Saxon  words  it  says  what  it  wants  to  say  (and  let  not  New 
England  fancy  that  I  should  have  written  "wishes"). 
With  only  seven  letters — instead  of  the  old  or  the  proposed 
seventeen — it  includes  half  the  continent  and  all  that  lies 
beyond.  Nor  is  the  '*Out"  reproachful,  as  one  anxious 
reader  has  felt.  *'  Out  West"  is  not  Out  of  the  World  but 
Out  of  the  Ruts.  How  much  more  it  means,  must  be  left 
for  another  text. 

But  meantime  the  Lion  seriously  commends  to  his     ^  ™n^ 
biggers  and  betters,   and  to  all  others,  that  they  ®^  ^i«ANBfC 

shall  read  and  weigh  the  poem  which  will  open  the 
January  number  ;  for  it  tells,  better  than  he  has  ever  been 
able  to  tell,  something  of  the  spirit  and  the  meaning  of 
Out  West.  For  that  matter,  he  does  not  remember  just 
who  of  the  Great  Names  is  writing  that  sort  of  verse  any- 
where, about  anything.  If  the  Republican  and  the  Atlantic 
do,  he  will  accept  correction  gratefully. 

Doubtless  there  is  no  real  need  to  take  heavier     workinos 
weapons  than  a  switch  to  those  whose  disengaged  ®^ ^^'lowDg 

minds  urge  that  the  Philippines  be  re-named  "the 
McKinley  Islands" — with  or  without  the  consent  of  any 
other  nation.  For  these  would-be  godfathers  are  so  visibly 
*'  traitors"  that  they  cannot  expect  to  impose  on  any  one 
who  has  a  sense  of  humor.  They  are  trying  to  work-oflf 
damaged  second-hand  goods  for  a  monument — as  promoters 
of  which  they  would  claim  a  first-class  reputation. 

If  they  cannot  think  of  any  better  way  to  honor  the  dead 


474  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

than  by  tearing:  out  leaves  from  the  geogrraphy,  they  should 
at  least  be  respectful  enough  to  choose  a  better  page.  That 
of  the  Philippines  is  a  sore  and  shabby  one.  If  they  had 
cared  as  much  about  the  nature  of  the  compliment  as  they 
do  to  be  able  to  strut  afterward  as  the  persons  who  paid  a 
compliment  to  a  great  man  dead,  they  could  have  done 
better.  The  United  States,  for  instance,  is  a  country  of 
the  first-class.  None  of  us  are  secretly  sorry  it  is  on  the 
map ;  none  of  us  are  wishing  some  one  would  '^  help  us 
let  go  of  it."  To  have  it  named  after  him  would  be  a 
crowning  honor  to  the  greatest  man  in  the  world.  Why  do 
not  these  sly  belittlers  come  out  and  launch  a  papular 
movement  to  change  the  name  ^*  United  States"  to  '  Mc- 
Kinleya  ?"  If  the  people  approve  of  the  change,  it  will  be 
made ;  if  not,  not.  But  these  conspirators  further  insult 
the  dead  by  proposing  to  paste  his  name  upon  a  country 
whose  people  do  not  approve.  This,  of  course,  is  a  thing 
only  a  Caesar — and  a  very  stupid  Caesar — would  counten- 
ance. Prest.  McKinley  was  a  man  whose  head  and  heart 
would  have  revolted  at  this  barbarous  folly  of  the  Intel- 
lectually Unemployed. 

Let  us,  so  far  as  possible,  try  to  remember  President 
McKinley  and  the  Philippines  at  different  times  of  day. 
Let  us  remember  him  in  the  evening — a  great  popular 
President.  His  page  is  written.  Let  us  remember  them 
in  the  morning — as  part  of  the  day's  work.  For  their  page 
is  not  written  yet ;  and  no  man  knows  how  it  shall  look 
when  we  are  done  with  all  the  writing  and  erasing  and 
blotting  and  interlining  we  must  do. 

Of  course,  no  one  who  knows  or  respects  history  or 
human  nature  ever  puts  forward  these  absurd  propositions 
to  wipe  out  centuried  and  geographical  names,  and  to  re- 
christen  a  nation  ;  and  certainly  no  one  of  reasonable  tact 
would  think  of  it  as  an  honor  to  any  man  to  name  after 
him  a  Pig  in  a  Poke. 

i]PTHBY  In  his  annual  report  to  the   Secretary  of  the 

TEmR^UADSR  Navy,  Commander  Benj.  F.  Tilley,  our  great  Amer- 
ican Governor-General  at  Tutuila,  Samoa,  states 
that  the  natives  of  this  Island  Possession  are  '  ^  a  gentile, 
kindly,  simple-minded  people,"  and  that  ''the  form  of 
government  instituted  by  the  United  States  has  proven 
very  popular  with  them. "  He  finds  only  two  reforms  need- 
ful to  be  made  among  them — ^both  to  curb  their  improvident 
generosity — but  closes  with  the  gratifying  assurance  that 
an  organized  government  has  been  established  which 
keeps  the  people  quiet  and  happy,  and  is  helping  them 
materially  in  their  journey  along  the  pathway  toward  com- 
plete civilization." 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN.  *75 

It  must  be  1  Under  all  the  circumstances,  the  mind's  eye 
can  see  them  fairly  scampering  along:  that  pathway — and 
Commander  Tilley  is  most  of  the  circumstances.  Happy 
Tutuilans  I  Why  not,  when  their  great  examplar  of  com- 
plete civilization  gets  Happy  early  and  often  ?  Quiet 
Tutuilans — and  wisely ;  for  who  else  can  be  heard  when 
Viceroy  Tilley  comes  down  both  sides  of  the  street  ?  The 
^*  officer  and  gentleman"  who  was  picked  up  in  the  San 
Francisco  gutters  a  few  months  ago,  drunk  and  in  dis- 
guise ;  whom  the  soberest  citizens  and  our  most  reputable 
travelers  picture  in  Tutuila  as  publicly  intoxicated,  as  de- 
bauching the  natives,  as  gallopading  through  the  streets 
on  the  same  horse  with  a  drunken  strumpet — who  else  so 
well  can  teach  ''complete  civilization"  to  a  ''gentle  and 
simple-minded  people  ?" 

This  is  really  nothing  new.  I  have  seen  American 
consuls  and  ministers  just  as  creditable  to  us.  But  now  we 
are  prancing  in  the  arena  as  a  World's  Power.  And  we 
shall  have  "insular  problems"  sure  enough — and  some 
other  problems — unless  we  turn  over  a  new  leaf  in  the 
matter  of  our  representatives  abroad. 

The  Lion  acknowledges  receipt  (from  headquar-     makers 
ters)   of    the   " declaration  of  intentions"  of  the  ^'^THE^yroOT. 

"  Yaqui  Junta  " — whatever  that  may  be.  Of  course 
it  means  to  be  taken  to  be  a  congress  of  the  Yaqui  Indians 
of  Sonora,  Mexico ;  and  no  less  probably  it  is  a  very  cheap 
and  ignorant  liar.  The  gist  of  these  '  intentions  "  is  that 
Mexico  is  "  mendicant,"  'criminal,"  and  must  be  absorbed 
by  the  United  States.  "  Therefore  the  annexation  of 
Mexico  will  bring  about  the  triumphant  free  coinage  of 
silver,  as  well  as  the  control  of  Panama  by  the  United 
States,  thus  placing  in  the  hands  of  the  North  American 
people  the  commerce  of  the  world." 

Sho,  now  !  The  Lion  is  doubtless  no  older  than  he  feels 
— but  that  is  old  enough  to  have  learned  a  little  of  Mexico, 
of  the  Yaquis  and  of  Nogales  bummers.  And  what  he 
most  enjoys  is  the  names  of  these  signers  of  this  grammar- 
school  Yaqui  Declaration  of  Pakerpendence.  What  a  typical 
Yaqui  Indian  name  is  John  Dwyer  I  And  it  is  really  no 
more  humorous  than  the  other  five  signatures — ^Romnaldo 
Tenebanto,  Kvaristo  Gutmasoleo,  Adinsola  Cupo,  Benito 
Gutierres,  Alejandro  Plumoblanco.  What  a  noble  list  of 
Yaqui  patriots — the  "never-conquered"  Yaquis — every 
mother's  brat  of  them  with  a  Mexican  Catholic  baptismal 
name,  and  precisely  50  per  cent,  of  them  misspelling  their 
respective  patronymics  I  Even  the  cheap  tramps  of  Nogales 
should  have  taken  us  for  a  little  less  fools  ! 


476  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

STRAIGHT  Every  week,  still,  the  Lion  has  letters  from  un- 

KNGusH^  redeemed  Britons  abusing  him  for  his  strictures  on 

the  Boer  war,  accusing  him  variously  of  ^'hating^ 
Engfland,"  being:  '^gfnorant,"  ''malicious,"  and  a  falsifier. 
Some  of  these  letters  are  from  anonymous  cads;  but  some 
are  from  men  of  better  breeding:  than  eyesigfht — and  the 
latter  are  worth  an  operation. 

The  g-reat  English  positivist  Frederic  Harrison,  one  of 
the  foremost  critics  and  essayists  in  England,  and  vice- 
president  of  the  Royal  Historical  Society,  is  also  pretty 
well  known  in  this  country,  where  high  honors  have  been 
paid  him  this  year.  His  distinguished  volume  of  American 
Addresses  has  been  briefly  noticed  in  these  pages.  What 
Mr.  Harrison  has  to  say  (in  the  London  Daily  News)  about 
the  Boer  war  is  so  true,  so  bravely  and  so  clearly  said  that 
contrary  to  his  usu^  habit  the  Lion  makes  considerable 
quotation : 

"  If  your  readers  would  care  to  understand,"  says  Mr.  Harrison, 
"  something  of  the  '  panoplied  hatred'  with  which  my  friends  and  I 
regard  this  very  brutal  episode  in  an  infamous  war,  I  will  put  our 
case  before  them  in  plain  words.  I  am  neither  '  little  Englander'  nor 
'  pro-Boer'  nor  *  cosmopolitan  crank'  but  a  patriotic  Englishman, 
who  does  not  think  his  country's  greatness  needs  to  be  eked  out  with 
more  Ugandas,  and  refuses  to  applaud  every  folly  and  crime  into 
which  demagogues  in  office  may  contrive  to  delude  the  nation. 

"  The  official  return  has  disclosed  a  barbarous,  vindictive,  system- 
atic attempt  to  terrorize  and  crush  a  brave  enemy  in  arms,  by  dev- 
astating a  country  which  it  was  found  impossible  to  conquer,  by 
ruining  the  homes  of  soldiers  with  whom  we  were  waging  war,  and 
by  exposing  their  wives  and  children  to  misery  and  want.  This  was 
a  violation  of  the  recognized  laws  of  civilized  war,  and  was  expressly 
forbidden  by  The  Hague  Conference.  It  was  especially  infamous 
when  resorted  to  against  an  honorable  body  of  citizens  who  were 
defending  the  existence  of  their  country.  It  was  insane  folly  in  the 
case  of  a  people  whom  it  was  designed  to  incorporate  in  the  empire, 
who  had  actually  been  proclaimed  as  our  fellow-countrymen. 

"  It  was  a  policy  so  degrading  in  plan  and  so  revolting  in  its  conse- 
quences that  any  honorable  soldier  would  have  been  justified  in  de- 
clining to  undertake  such  butcher's  work.  But  our  commanders, 
accustomed  to  wholesale  slaughter  and  devastation  in  warfare  with 
savages  in  Asia  and  Africa,  and  unaccustomed  to  fight  with  any  men 
of  European  race,  were  found  willing  to  act  on  it.  And  ministers  at 
home  .were  found  willing  to  palliate  it  with  cheerful  indifference  and 
evasive  sneers.  Both  soldiers  and  ministers  may  count  on  this,  that 
their  names  will  live  in  history  with  those  who  ordered  and  executed 
the  barbarities  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  the  devastation  of  the 
Palatinate,  and  the  dragonnades  of  Louis  XIV. 

*'  Barbarities  of  the  kind  became  only  too  probable  when  our 
rulers  entered  '  with  a  light  heart'  on  a  war  to  conquer  and  crush  one 
of  the  toughest,  bravest,  most  independent  races  in  the  world,  and 
gaily  announced  that  '  not  a  shred  of  independence'  would  be  left  to 
men  of  proverbial  courage  and  obstinacy,  who  for  many  generations 
have  faced  death,  famine,  and  the  extremes  of  suffering  in  order  to 
live  free — and  especially  free  of  the  hated  British  bondage.  When 
the  swindlers  and  braggarts  told  us  that  a  little  show  of  force  would 
cow  these  Dutch  farmers,  that,  even  if  war  did  result,  it  would  be 


/A/    THE   LION'S   DEN.  *77 

over  in  a  few  weeks  and  would  only  cost  a  few  millions,  when  they 
entered  on  one  of  the  most  formidable  wars  of  the  century  with 
ignorance  so  laughable  and  arrog^ance  so  blind,  it  became  clear  to  all 
who  knew  the  history  and  nature  of  the  Boer  and  the  physical  con- 
ditions of  the  task  that  ghastly  ferocities  would  be  resorted  to,  and 
that  our  British  name  would  be  dragged  down  from  each  meanness 
and  atrocity  to  still  lower  depths.    .    .    . 

"Into  this  stupendous  folly,  into  this  abominable  crime,  the 
British  adventurers  in  South  Africa  have  induced  our  government  to 
plunge.  They  rigged  the  political  market,  they  gave  'commissions' 
to  leading  politicians,  they  hired  the  press  of  Africa  and  at  home, 
they  poured  out  on  the  public  ear  a  torrent  of  calumny  and  sensa- 
tional falsehoods,  they  organized  a  foul  act  of  piracy,  they  bullied 
and  blackmailed  the  '  department,'  they  made  the  representative  of 
the  crown  their  creature. 

"  This  responsible  governor  of  a  self -governing  colony  stooped  to 
play  the  part  which  some  noble  chairman  of  a  rotten  company  per- 
forms as  the  iigtirehead  of  a  board  of  guinea-pig  directors.  He  be- 
haved as  an  Irish  viceroy  would  behave,  if  he  made  himself  the 
grand  master  of  the  Orange  faction,  hounded  them  on  to  insult,  mis- 
represent, and  attack  their  Catholic  fellow-subjects,  and  personally 
labored  to  bring  about  a  civil  war.  He  mouthed  out  rhetorical  abuse 
of  the  government  with  which  he  was  sent  to  negotiate  ;  he  insulted 
and  defieh  the  constitutional  ministers  he  was  bound  to  consult ;  he 
resorted  to  his  old  journalistic  epigrams  to  mislead  and  irritate 
people  at  home ;  he  concealed  from  them  the  feeling*  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  colony  he  governed  ;  he  deceived  his  chiefs  at  home  by 
false  accounts  of  the  perils  before  them  and  of  the  means  of  com- 
promise at  hand.  And,  when  he  saw  the  possibility  of  a  peaceful 
issue  to  the  imbroglio  he  had  fanned,  he  took  care  to  make  a  settle- 
ment impossible  and  war  the  natural  result. 

"  War,  indeed,  did  result ;  and  it  is  only  one  of  the  same  election- 
eering tricks  to  pretend  that  the  Boers  began  it.  When  they  saw 
the  empire  armed  and  heard  the  open  menaces  of  the  official  dis- 
patches, their  invasion  of  Natal  was  a  mere  strateg^ic  move,  as  a 
man  threatened  by  a  gang*  of  armed  burglars  might  give  the  first 
blow  to  protect  himself.  And  now,  when  a  wasting  and  savage  war 
has  gone  on  for  nearly  twenty  months  with  no  visible  result  except 
the  slaughter  of  myriads  of  men,  the  waste  of  ;f  150,000,000,  ruin,  dev- 
astation, and  famine  broadcast  over  the  very  country  we  pretend  to 
call  part  of  our  empire,  and  deadly  hatred  planted  in  a  race  of  men 
that  never  forgets,  whom  we  pretend  to  call  fellow-citizens — now  we 
are  asked  to  join  in  the  mock  triumph  of  the  author  of  all  this  shame 
and  confusion,  of  this  ghastly  anarchy  and  never-dying  source  of 
future  strife.  This  worst  enemy  of  his  country,  this  contriver  of  in- 
calculable ruin,  is  called  away  from  the  chaos  into  which  he  has 
plunged  his  colony  to  receive  the  honors  of  a  victorious  soldier.  Let 
us  not  join  in  this  squalid  electioneering  farce,  the  same  kind  of  ad- 
vertising trick  by  which  tx>ld  tradesmen  try  to  rouse  a  boom  in  their 
tea,  or  their  wines,  or  their  miraculous  soap. 

"  Not  only  are  we  being  ruined,  humiliated  and  made  odious  as  a 
nation,  but  we  are  being  made  the  laugh ing'-stock  of  the  world. 
This  grotesque  fooling  for  party  ends  is  transforming  us  into  a  race 
of  blackguards.  The  disgusting  orgies  of  Mafficking  and  carnivals 
were  encouraged  and  financed  by  politicians  and  advertising  trades- 
men. They  were  blessed  by  the  clergy  of  that  church  which  assures 
us  that  'God  made  war.'  Soldiers  who  have  violated  the  laws  of 
nations,  and  have  left  the  field  of  their  so-called  conquests  a  scene  of 
chaos  and  confusion,  swept  by  incessant  and  aimless  fighting,  are 
hailed  as  if  they  were  the  saviors  of  the  country.    Generals  who 


^78  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

have  suffered  humiliatiiig'  defeats,  over  which  the  civilized  world  ha* 
made  merry,  vapor  about  at  bazars  and  g^arden  parties  as  heroes  auid 
heaven-born  commanders.  No  one  denies  the  splendid  courage 
shown  hj  our  soldiers,  officers  and  men  alike ;  nor  do  we  fail  to  honor 
the  patience,  cheerfulness,  and  tenacity  of  sdl  who  have  borne  the 
heat  and  burden  of  this  long*  and  cruel  day.  But  to  swagger  over 
the  deeds  of  men  who  have  done  their  duty  as  English  soldiers 
always  have  done,  to  shout  about  the  world  with  this  immoderate 
bluster  over  a  campaign  which,  considering  the  petty  enemy  and 
their  narrow  means,  has  been  one  long  tale  of  rebuff,  disappoint- 
ment, miscalculation,  disaster  and  perpetual  '  regretable '  incidents 
including  more  British  soldiers  taken  prisoners  than  ever  happened 
in  our  long  history  before — this,  I  say,  is  more  like  the  tone  of  the 
Hooligans  out  Mafficking  than  of  the  Englishmen  who  beat  Napoleon 
and  saved  Europe.    .    .    . 

" '  The  war  is  now  over,'  we  are  officially  informed  week  by  week  by 
commanders,  ministers,  and  their  friends  in  the  press.  We  look  on 
these  brazen  untruths  with  alarm,  for  it  is  thought  to  be  the  prelude 
to  some  new  policy  of  rage  and  barbarism.  But  all  is  not  'over.' 
We  are  not  '  over'  the  deaully  blow  all  this  has  struck  at  the  empire, 
the  ruin  and  chaos  it  has  spread  through  South  Africa,  the  blood* 
poison  it  has  infused  into  public  opinion,  nor  the  stain  on  EngUsli 
honor  in  the  sight  of  the  civilized  world.  There  is  another  thing^, 
too,  which  is  not  yet  'over.'  And  that  is  the  nationality  of  the 
Boer  republics,  which,  I  believe,  are  not  yet  crushed  out  forever — 
which,  as  a  patriotic  Englishman,  I  trust  never  will  be  crushed  out 
forever." 

TH«  GiAKT  "Hoi"  cried  the  fly.     "You  had  to  notice  me, 

^""^l^^s      ^^^  y^^  ^    ^'"*  ^^^^^^  *^*^  y^  thought  1" 

"Humph  I"    answered  the    substantial   citizen, 

reaching:  for  the  broom  ;  "I  don't  observe  that  you  weig^h 
any  more  than  you  did.  But  you  lighted  on  a  tender  spot." 
•  Only  along  some  such  lines  is  it  conceivable  that  Messrs. 
Field,  Wilson  and  Alexander  (a  majority  of  the  supervisors 
of  Los  Angeles  county,  Cal.)  could  ever  have  become  inter- 
esting to  any  considerable  public  or  wormed  their  names 
into  a  magazine  page — unless  some  monthly  devoted  to 
Entomology  and  the  particular  Extermination  of  Insect 
Pests.  Like  the  fly,  too,  unused  to  praise,  they  seem  to 
prefer  contempt  to  continued  obscurity.  The  Daniel  Web- 
ster of  the  Far  West — beyond  reasonable  discussion  or 
comparison  the  greatest  mind  California  has  yet  produced 
— died  not  long  ago.  Of  the  record  of  Stephen  M.  White 
as  a  leader  at  the  bar,  of  his  place  in  State  and  National 
politics,  of  his  achievement  and  his  stature  in  the  Senate 
of  the  United  States,  there  needs  no  rehearsal  here.  In 
our  modern  statecraft  it  has  been  given  unto  few  men  to 
serve  the  State  as  highly  and  as  broadly  as  he  served  it ; 
unto  still  fewer  has  it  been  appointed  to  stand  forth  amid 
our  putty  politics  such  a  tower  of  majestic  and  incorrupt- 
ible strength.  In  the  city  of  Los  Angeles  was  his  home  ; 
here  his  early  triumphs  and  some  of  his  great  ones.  His 
leonine  spirit  and  presence  and  voice  many  a  time  filled  and 


IN    THE   LION'S   DEN.  47? 

thrilled  and  dominated  that  very  county  courthouse  in  one 
of  whose  side  rooms  any  one  who  cares  to  hunt  for  them 
can  find  these  three  specimens  official  of  cottony-cushion 
scale. 

But  when  a  grateful  public  rolled  up,  from  all  over  the 
State,  from  all  over  the  United  States,  and  far  faster  than 
was  the  national  subscription  for  the  Gen.  Grant  monu- 
ment— $18,000  to  erect  a  worthy  statue  in  his  home  city  to 
Stephen  M.  White,  then  was  the  flies'  chance  to  attract  at- 
tention. They  refused  to  permit  the  statue  to  be  erected 
on  the  beautiful  and  commanding  courthouse  grounds — 
where  it  would  be  most  fitly  placed,  where  an  overwhelming 
request  of  the  representative  people  asked  that  it  be  placed. 

Why  ?  '*  Precedent,"  they  say.  But  cowards  are  gener- 
ally untruthful,  and  these  are  both.  Taking  them  at  their 
word  ;  if  California  can  raise  enough  Stephen  M.  Whites 
to  crowd  all  the  courthouse  grounds  from  Siskiyou  to  San 
Diego  with  their  statues,  one  apiece — well,  she  can  afford 
to  enlarge  the  grounds.  Whereas  if  she  is  going  to  breed 
many  more  supervisorial  gophers,  we  might  better  decide 
to  get  along  without  courthouses  altogether. 

But  the  disgraceful  truth  is  that  the  insult  to  a  great 
man's  memory,  and  to  his  wife,  and  to  his  fellow  citizens, 
was  for  no  other  reason  on  earth  than  that  he  was  born  of 
Catholic  parents,  in  California  when  it  was  overwhelm- 
ingly Catholic,  and  that  he  was  man  enough  not  to  turn 
renegade  for  political  profit.  And  when  in  an  intelligent 
American  community  there  is  left  any  official  body  to  bow 
down  to  the  always  un-American  and  now  long  dead, 
damned  and  decomposed  A.  P.  A.,  it  is  time  to  disinfect. 
The  Lion  is  neither  insectivorous  nor .  Catholic  ;  but  he 
hopes  to  live  to  see — and  help  hasten — the  ^d  of  the  last 
grape-nut-brained  enemy  of  his  country  who  would  hinder 
an  American  living  or  dishonor  him  dead,  because  of  his 
religion. 

And  it  is  a  good  time  for  house-cleaning  anyhow.  With 
the  inspiring  example  in  the  White  House  of  a  President 
neither  afraid  nor  ashamed  to  put  his  own  hand  to  the 
broom  in  cleansing  politics  that  have  grown  pretty  dirty— 
we  needn't  be  too  lofty  or  too  lazy  to  abate  our  own  little 
local  nuisances  everywhere. 

Chas.  F.  Lummis. 


may  expect  of  the  author,  Wm.  Henry  Hudson,  "  lately  Profeuor  of 
English  Iiiterature  at  Stanford  University." 

The  California  Ulssions,  of  course,  are  a  perennial  text ;  and  the; 
are  more  be-written,  perhapa,  than  any  other  one  theme  in  the  whole 
West.  Age  cannot  wither,  nor  cnatom  stale,  the  infinite  lack  of 
variety  Lq  the  multitude  of  publications  concerning  them-^leriving- 
almost  invariably  and  almost  exclasively  from  Bancroft's  "  Mon- 
strum  horrenttum,  in/orme,  ingens,  cut  lutaeit  ademptum,"  of  a 
"history;"  and  strung  in  unassorted  heads,  upon  whatsoever  ten- 
uous thread  the  borrower  may  have  in  his  spinneret.  There  is 
room — nay,  an  eager  vacuum — for  a  first-class  "popular"  book  on 
this  romantic  subject;  and  one  has  never  been  printed  yet.  Mr.  C. 
F.  Carter's  comes  nearest,  perhaps ;  but  it  falls  short  by  much. 

Prof.  Hudson's  academic  contribution  to  the  catalogue  is  in  many 
ways  above  the  average,  but  in  as  many  ways  disappointing.  We 
might  reasonably  have  asked  from  him  a  more  ponderable  work.  It 
is  too  much  a  mere  casual  "reading-up"  for  a  hasty  lecture,  and 
does  not  merit  the  permanency  of  binding.  His  grasp  of  the  Mission 
substanc«  and  theory,  its  policies  and  its  economies,  its  history  and 
its  hope,  is  timid,  inexpert,  inadequate.  Perhaps  it  is  the  British  of 
it  that  enables  this  neat,  little  man  not  to  see  the  humor  of  his  patron- 
ising estimate  of  that  Lion-Heart  of  the  Franciscans  in  California., 
Fray  Junfpero  Serra,  and  of  the  general  outcome  of  the  Mission 
system  ;  but  from  whatever  source  it  comes,  it  is  unwelcome  at  this 
date.  It  would  be  better,  too,  to  handle  this  Apostle  of  California 
with  rather  more  respect  of  proofreading  and  the  Manual  of  Sti- 
qnette.  "  Junipero,"  the  author  calls  him  right  along;  not  Fray 
Junfpero,"  or  Father  Serra,"  or  even  "Serra."  It  ia  like  writ- 
ing of  our  revolutionary  times  and  always  referring  to  Washington 
as  plain  "  George" — which  most  historians  have  sense  enough  not  to 
do.  We  are  even  left  in  doubt  whether  Prof.  Hudson  pronounces  the 
name  " Jew-n(pper-o",  as  he  spells  it.  "Jose"  [apparently  to  be 
called  Joe's]  in  place  of  Josi  [Ho-sky]  is  an  even  more  aggravated 
solecism  maintained  throughout.  Other  misspellings  quite  unpar- 
donable here  are  "  Villicati,"  "  Francesco"  Palon,  "Crcsp^," 
"  Filipe,"  "Mowjerio"  {which  Prof.  Hudson  translates  "Monastery" 
for  Nuns)  and  "  Moujaa."  The  San  Diego  Mission  was  not  "trans- 
ferred in  1874"  to  its  present  location— by  rather  some  time. 

These  and  the  like  minor  blemishes  would  not  so  much  count  were 
they  upon  the  face  of  a  reasonably  adequate  historic  concept  of  the 
generic  theme  ;  but  the  whole  grip  of  the  story  is  superficial. 

It  is  a  serious  omission  in  a  book  of  this  sort,  even  for  tourist 
consumption,  to  leave  undated  the  many  photographs  of  the  Missiona. 
Some  of  those  used  here  are  fairly  recent ;  others  are  from  ten  to 
twenty  years  old,  and  the  whole  appearance  of  things  is  radically 


THAT    WHICH   IS    WRITTEN.  481 

chang^ed  since  then.  For  instance,  it  is  five  years  since  Capistrano 
has  looked  as  it  is  here  pictured ;  and  two  to  four  times  as  long  since 
San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Fernando,  etc.,  presented  the  appear- 
ance credited  to  them  by  this  book.  This  is  bad  business,  even  from 
the  *'  business"  side. 

The  book  is  very  cheap  for  so  handsome  a  production.  Dodge  Pub. 
Co.,  150  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York.    $1.50. 

The  venerable,  amiable  and  interminable  Noah  Brooks  i,Bwis 
warms  over  the  journal  of  I^wis  and  Clark  into  a  fat  "  popu-  and  ci«ark 

lax"  volume  with  the  misleading  title  First  Across  the  Con-  rbtoi^d. 

tinent.  Of  course  the  two  gallant  captains  sent  out  by  Je£Ferson  in 
1804  were  not  "first  across  the  continent'*  by  a  trifling  matter  of  270 
years ;  nor  the  tenth  across  by  time  enough.  But  they  were  the  first 
officers  sent  across  by  the  government  of  the  United  States;  and 
with  a  touch  of  that  same  exquisite  race-modesty,  which  leads  the 
Encyclopedia  Britannica  to  consider  the  world  uncircumnavigated 
until  an  Englishman  did  it  (60  years  too  late),  Mr.  Brooks  forgets 
history  for  the  sake  of  a  catching  title.  It  is  an  excellent  example 
of  the  thing  historical  students  have  so  much  to  complain  of — abuse 
of  truth  for  carelessness  or  for  commercial  ends. 

The  story  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition  is  reasonably  well, 
though  rather  dully,  told.  There  is  really  very  little  need  of  wooden 
books  on  this  theme,  after  the  journal  of  these  great  explorers  them- 
selves has  been  given  its  definitive  edition  by  the  late  Dr.  Elliott 
Coues.  His  work  was  the  last  word  any  modest  person  would  think 
to  speak  ;  and  Mr.  Brooks  has  not  visibly  approved  the  immodesty. 

Aside  from  careless  grammar  and  a  general  heaviness,  the  book 
has  many  ineptitudes,  Coyote  is  not  *'  pronounced  kyote,"  and  never 
was,  except  by  the  illiterate.  It  is  pronounced  co-y6-te.  The  grease- 
wood  is  not  a  **  pulpy-leaved  thorn,"  nor  either  part  thereof.  The 
"  Beaver  dams"  shown  in  the  illustration  facing  p.  134  have  the  most 
remarkable  construction  ever  yet  noted  in  beaver  architecture  ;  and 
not  only  historians  but  beer-bottlers  know  better  than  '*  Mt.  Ranier." 
The  best  feature  of  the  book  is  that  it  largely  quotes  the  Journal. 
The  illustration  is  not  more  satisfactory ;  being  largely  copies  of 
Catlin's  flat  sketches — than  which  we  do  a  good  deal  better  nowa- 
days. Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  153-157  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York.  $1.50 
net. 

Of  Dr.  Eydward  Robison  Taylor,  the  scholarly  translator  of      an  om  ar 
Heredia,  probably  the  best  achievement  thus  far  in  general  op 

letters  is  Into  the  Lights  a  sequence  of  Omaresque  stanzas  hopk. 

tinged  with  a  larger  optimism  than  the  Persian's  if  without  his 
inevitable  fire.  Like  all  Dr.  Taylor's  work,  this  is  scrupulous, 
thoughtful  and  well-wrought;  and  this  brochure — very  attractively 
printed — will  add  to  his  name.  It  is  surprising  to  find  in  the  first 
line  of  the  XXX  stanza  a  lapse  of  meter.  D.  P.  Elder  &  Morgan 
Shepard,  San  Francisco.    75  cents. 

More  than  ordinary  worth  attaches  to  the  Swedish  Fairy      Swedish 
Tales ^  by  Anna  Wahlenberg.     For  nowadays  -which  is  a  fairy 

good  while  since  the  time  when  such  things  might  be  unso-  tai«ks. 

phisticated — these  stories  are  simple,  well-conceived  and  "  in  keeping. " 
Fairy-tales,  of  course,  hark  back  to  times  when  standards  were  different 
and  ''society"  unspoiled;  and  it  is  almost  impossible  for  a  modem 
to  write  them  without  some  touch  of  our  artificialities.  Miss  Wahl- 
enberg, however,  has  done  very  well  indeed,  and  the  illustration  by 
Helen  Maitland  Armstrong,  is  particularly  good.  A.  C.  McClurg  6l 
Co.,  Chicago.    $1.00  net. 


^2  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE, 

GOOD  The  Round  Rabbit,  "and  other  child  verse,"  bj  Agues 

FOR  TH9  Lee,  is  a  yery  beautifullj  dressed  and  very  charming-  col- 

YOUNGSTBRS.  lection  of  some  th]:eeHMX)re  poems  for  little  children,  reprinted 
from  Si,  Nicholas^  and  the  minor — as  all  the  rest  are — juveniles.  It 
is  very  rarely  that  so  praiseworthy  a  volume  of  child  verse  is  pat 
forth,  nowadays ;  and  the  author  is  to  be  complimented  not  only  for 
a  musical  ear,  but  for  an  excellent  judg'ment  of  what  the  children 
like  and  should  have.    Small,  Maynard  &  Co.,  Boston. 

Another  in  the  workmanlike  little  *'  Beacon  Biographies"  is  Ralph 
Waldo  Effterson,  by  Frank  B.  Sanborn,  who  is  peculiarly  fitted  for  his 
task.  Among  pocket-size  books,  this  series  stands  well.  The  por- 
trait of  Emerson  is  not  quite  up  to  the  general  standard  of  the 
"  Biographies."    Small,  Maynard  A  Co.,  BMton.    75  cents  neL 

A  decorative  and  generally  amiable  hrochvire  is /in^Us/rom/apam; 
verses  by  Mabel  Hyde.  The  '*  Jing-les,"  of  course,  are  not  from  Japan; 
it  is  doubtful  if  they  could  be  called  so  much  as  Japanesque ;  but  they 
are  not  without  point  and  feeling- ;  and  the  illustrations  are  attractive. 
Much  wonM  thinffs  are  generally  done  under  this  Invocation.  A.  M. 
Robertson,  San  Francisco.    75  cents  net. 

C.  F.  L,. 

KB  Anthony  Hope  is  still  exploiting  his  "  newer  manner**  in 

SPRINGS  THstram  of  Blent,  and  blood  does  not  flow  nor  swords  clash 

BTBRNAX,.  for  our  thrilling  as  in  the  good  old  days  of  Count  Rupert. 
But  the  fireworks  are  there  just  the  same.  The  hero  abandons  herit- 
age and  title,  which  he  holds  impregnably  (though,  as  he  believes, 
fraudulently)  mainly — so  far  as  appears — because  the  girl-consin 
whom  he  thinks  to  be  the  lawful  hedr  has  a  trick  of  crossing  her 
knees  and  displaying  her  ankles  that  reminds  him  of  his  mother. 
Then,  by  way  of  a  breather  making  jf  10,000  in  a  few  days  in  a 
real  estate  operation,  he  wins  the  good  graces  of  a  Prime  Sinister, 
declines  a  proffered  "  beastly  new  viscounty,"  also  the  hand  of  his 
cousin  though  tendered  by  herself.  Next  he  discovers  that  the 
property  and  title  belong  to  him  after  all,  and  that  he  loves  his 
cousin.  He  persuades  her  to  marry  him  out  of  hand,  telling  her  only 
of  the  latter  part  of  his  discovery,  until  the  evening  after  their  wed- 
ding. Then  she  calls  him  a  liar,  with  emphasis  and  repetition,  and 
vows  she  will  leave  him  at  once  and  forever.  He  is  almost  over- 
whelmed, but  recovers  himself  by  naming  her  *'  curmudgeon"  with 
such  force  and  convincingness  that  she  surrenders  at  discretion.  No 
one  will  venture  to  call  the  story  hackneyed.  McClure,  Phillips  & 
Co.,  New  York.    $1.50. 

A  wiPB  The  Love  of  an  Uncrowned  Queen,  by  W.  H.  Wilkins,  is  not , 

OP  THE  as  its  title  might  lead  one  to  guess,  a  romantic  novel,  but  a 

FIRST  GEORGE,  biography  of  Sophie  Dorothea,  wife  of  George  I  of  England, 
though  divorced  before  he  came  to  the  throne.  In  direct  descent  from 
them,  in  the  sixth  generation,  is  Eklward  of  England,  and»  in  the  sev- 
enth, William  of  Grermany.  The  major  portion  of  the  volume  is  devoted 
to  her  relations  with  Philip,  Count  Konigsmarck,  and  to  their  corres- 
pondence, now  for  the  first  Umepublished.  The  burden  of  the  letters — 
on  both  sides — is  "  I  love  you.  Why  are  vou  not  true  to  me?"  The  story 
is  tragic  and  pitiful  enough — a  few  brief  years  of  stormy,  secret,  jealous 
love,  then  for  him  a  sword  to  the  heart  as  he  left  her  chamber,  and 
for  her  divorce  and  imprisonment  to  the  day  of  her  death,  thirty-two 
years  later.  One  cannot  sympathize  with  the  wronged  husband, 
whose  mother  described  him  as  "  the  most  pig-headed,  stubborn  boy 
that  ever  lived,  and  who  has  round  his  brains  such  a  thick  crust  that 
I  defy  any  man  or  woman  ever  to  discover  what  is  in  them."  Her- 
bert 8.  Stone  &  Co.,  Chicago  and  New  York. 


THAT    WHICH   iS    WRITTEN.  483 

The  brightest  of  the  newer  stars  in  the  Russian  literary      Russia, 
firmament  is,  bj  pretty  general  consent,  Maxim  GkSrky,  and  from 

there  are  not  a  few  who  expect  the  very  g^atest  things  from  ixrn, 

the  maturity  of  his  powers.  One  cannot  call  Foma  Gordyeef—hiA 
first  long  novel,  now  translated  into  B#nglish — pleasant  reading,  but 
it  is  better  than  that ;  it  is  alive,  though  a  sombre  and  cynical 
enough  picture  of  Russian  social  and  commercial  life.  G6rky's 
personal  encounters  with  living,  through  most  of  his  three  and 
thirty  years,  have  not  been  productive  of  cakes  and  ale  to  any  con- 
siderable extent.  Orphaned  at  an  early  age,  he  was  by  turns 
shoemaker's  boy,  draughtsman's  apprentice,  cook's  boy,  gairdener's 
assistant,  laborer  in  a  bakery  (at  $1.50  a  month),  apple-peddler,  dock- 
workman,  wood-sawyer,  railway-watchman,  and  so  on,  getting  into 
prison  "seven  or  eight  times"  by  way  of  variety.  He  was  well 
towards  thirty  before  he  began  to  write  for  publication,  but  then 
leaped  into  reputation  almost  at  a  bound.  Miss  Hapgood's  transla- 
tion of  the  present  volume  seems  competent,  and  the  publication  is 
authorized  by  G6rky.    Charles  Scribner's  Sons,  New  York.    $1.00. 

Heloise  Bdwina  Hersey's  To  Girls  is  an  annoying  volume      hrart  to 
for  the  reviewer.    Taken  as  a  whole,  it  is  sincere,  useful,  hkart 

even  inspiring.    Tet  there  are  many  sins  both  of  omission  tau:s 

and  commission.  It  may  be  only  a  wise  reticence  which  forbids  any 
more  extended  treatment — in  247  pages  of  advice  to  young  women — 
of  one  of  the  questions  which  must  come  before  most  young  women, 
than  a  bare  mention  of  "  the  process  which  we  call  failing  in  love." 
A  mere  man  may  be  only  exposing  his  own  ignorance  in  smiling 
over  the  "  deep  and  effective  resolutions  made  by  many  a  girl  in  a 
hammock  as  she  passes  a  June  morning  over  a  novel ;"  and  it  may 
be  only  personal  blindness  which  fails  to  see  in  General  McClellan 
"  the  modem  counterpart"  of  the  melancholy  Dane.  But  if  "shouldn't 
yon  admire  to?"  is  indeed  "  a  refreshing  New  Bnglandism"  there  is 
at  least  one  "  New  Knglander"  of  some  experience  who  had,  till  he 
read  this  book,  failed  to  be  refreshed  by  it.  Small,  Maynard  &  Co., 
Boston. 

Sieph&n  Calinari  is  a  study  of  the  transformation  of  an      a  fost- 
O^ord  undergraduate — ^rich,  clever  and  uncommonly  con-  graduatb 

ceited — into  a  worker  with  serious  purposes,  a  chastened  course. 

oinnion  of  himself,  and  a  prospect  of  usefulness.  Factors  in  bring- 
ing about  this  result  are  three  love-affairs,  a  taste  of  war  in  the 
Balkans  and  a  contest  for  a  seat  in  Parliament — all  packed  into 
some  fifteen  months.  This  makes  the  action  brisk  enough,  to  say 
the  least,  and  the  story  is  never  dull.  But  can  Mr.  Julian  Sturg^s 
really  mean  us  to  understand  that  "  we  ain't "  and  "  you  ain't "  are 
familiar  phrases  on  the  lips  of  the  British  Aristocracy  7  Chas.  Scrib- 
ner's Sons,  New  York.    $1.50. 

The  five  sketches  of  life  in  an  Illinois  country  village,  col-      ijlfb 
lected  under  the  title  of   The  Battle  Invisible^  are  rather  in 

character  drawings   than   stories.     The  author,   Eleanor  iu^inois. 

C.  Reed,  is  introduced  by  the  publishers  as  "a  new  Chicago  writer." 
It  may  be  unfair  to  wonder  whether  the  "  new  "  or  the  "  Chicago  "  is 
responsible  for  making  a  girl  bom  when  her  father  was  thirty-four 
years  old  reach  the  agfe  of  eighteen  only  when  he  is  past  sixty,  as 
happens  in  the  first  story.  In  spite  of  such  blemishes,  the  work  is 
worth  while  and  gives  promise  of  better  to  come.  A.  C.  McClurg  & 
Co.,  Chicago.    $1.25. 

The  content  of  As  a  Falling  Star  seems  to  this  reader  too  slight — 
and  too  sickly-sweet — for  its  attractive  setting.  A.  C.  McClurg  & 
Co.,  Chicago.    $1.00. 


484  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

Trashier  works  have  been  printed  than  Sylvia:  The  Story  of  an 
American  Countess,  But  that  is  not  a  sufficient  excuse  for  either 
publisher  or  author.  As  to  the  glittering  bait  dangled  to  allure  pur- 
chasers (a  chance  of  winning  $500  or  a  part  of  it,  by  passing  judg-- 
ment  on  the  beauty  of  the  heroine  as  conceived  by  twelve  different 
artists)  comment  is  needless.  A  ticket  in  the  I/ittle  Louisiana 
Lottery  would  cost  less.  A  redeeming  touch  of  the  comic  is  the 
fact  that  only  two  or  three  of  the  twelve  artists  can  possibly  have 
read  the  book,  if  one  may  judge  by  the  pictures.  Small,  Maynard 
&  Co.,  Boston.    $1.50. 

Never  a  man  of  lower  title  than  "Count" — except  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh — is  allowed  to  play  a  part  in  Charlton  Anderson's  A 
Parfit  Gentil  Knight^  while  Princes  of  the  Blood  Royal  are  thick 
as  huckleberries.  E^ven  the  maid  of  the  heroine  is  entitled  to  the 
de.  The  scene  of  the  story  is  France,  the  time  the  reign  of  Charles 
IX,  and  the  motive  the  honorable  love  of  a  very  gallant  gentleman 
for  the  wife  of  his  dearest  friend.  A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.,  Chica^no. 
$1.50. 

The  three  hundred  and  more  issues  of  Appleton's  "  Town  and 
Country  Library"  have  included  many  good  stories — very  few  more 
interesting  than  The  Seal  of  Silence,  by  Arthur  R.  Conder.  WiAi 
enough  plot  to  hold  the  attention  and  enough  action  to  keep  things 
moving,  there  is  clear-cut  character-drawing,  admirable  discretion 
and  a  very  pretty  turn  of  humor.  The  tale  would  have  done  credit 
to  any  veteran*  It  was  the  first  book  of  a  very  young  man,  and  he 
died — more*s  the  pity — before  it  was  printed.  D.  Appleton  Sl  Co. 
New  York.    50c. 

As  its  title  would  suggest.  The  Grapes  of  Wrath,  by  Mary  Harriott 
Norris,  is  a  story  of  the  close  of  our  Civil  War.  There  is  love  in  it, 
and  battle ;  swift  death  and  painful  endurance,  with  the  sun  shining 
over  peaceful  reunion  at  the  end.  Small,  Maynard  Sl  Co.,  Boston. 
$1.50. 

The  nine  tales  by  Quiller-Couch  just  published  under  the  title  of 
The  Laircl*s  Luck  give  excellent  proof  of  his  versatility  aa  a 
story  teller.  They  range  from  the  pure  fantasy  of  "  Phoebus  On 
Halzaphron"  to  the  rattling  adventure  of  "The  Two  Scouts." 
" Poisoned  Ice "  is  sufficiently  ghastly-grim,  while  "Midsummer 
Fires"  is  a  very  delicate  and  tender  study  of  a  life-long  love.  The 
volume  is  distinctly  worth  reading.  Chas.  Scribner's  Sons,  New 
York.    $1.50. 

Grimple*s  Mind,  published  by  A.  G.  Rogers,  at  Santa  Barbara, 
and  acknowledged  by  Morrison  J.  Swift,  costs  ten  cents  or  twenty- 
five,  according  to  whether  you  buy  a  copy  printed  on  light  paper  or 
heavy.  Whether  you  get  your  money's  worth  or  not  depends  mainly 
on  your  sense  of  humor. 

The  publishers  say  concerning  Lincoln's  First  Love  that  it  *'is 
not  necessarily  authentic  in  all  its  details."  To  which  may  be  added 
that  their  share  in  making  the  little  book  has  been  beautifully  done. 
A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.,  Chicago.    $1.00. 

Shan;? Bullock's  Irish  Pastorals  are  nearly  perfect  in  their  way — 
and  the  way  is  a  mighty  good  one.  True  as  photographs — and  with 
no  "  retouching"  of  the  negatives — there  is  never  a  pose  nor  a  strain- 
ing after  effect,  nor  ever  a  failure  to  get  just  the  picture  the  artist 
wanted.  We  are  in  no  danger  of  having  too  many  such  studies  of 
life  and  character  as  these.    McClure,  Phillips  &  Co.,  $1.00. 

C.  A.  M. 


CmdMMd  by  WILLIAM  E.  SMITHS. 

A  large  part  of  the  apace  available  for  this  department  in      rexT 
the  present  iwue  is  devoted  to  the  announcement  of  the  ^™ 

■cope  it  will  assume  hereafter,  and  of  the  topics  it  will 
bring  before  the  people  of  the  West  during  1902.  Om  Wb9T  Is  to 
be  a  more  comprehensive  publication  than  Thb  La.md  oT  Bunshins. 
It  will  cover  a  wider  field  and  in  a  somewhat  different  way.  It  will 
aim  not  onlj  to  discuss  events  and  record  historr,  but  to  some  extent 
to  shape  events  and  make  historj.  It  purposes  to  go  out  and  meet 
the  problems  of  the  future  at  least  half-way.  tt  would  rather  be  a 
little  ahead  of  its  day  than  a  little  behind.  It  prefers  to  try  to  ac- 
compliata  something,  and  fail,  rather  than  to  play  the  coward's  part 
of  attempting  nothing  because  not  assured  of  success  in  advance. 

The  man  who  tries  to  reform  Institutions  must  prepare  to  about 
be  denounced  as  "  utterly  impracticable."  This  is  true 
everywhere  and  always,  but  just  a  little  more  emphatically 
true  in  California  tban  anywhere  else.  There  never  was  a  situation 
BO  bad  that  somebody  was  not  satisfied  with  it,  and  that  somebody 
would  not  suffer  from  any  change.  Even  the  pestilence  fills  the 
pockets  of  doctors  and  undertakers.  And  those  who  set  out 
upon  the  reform  of  bad  laws  or  the  inauguration  of  new  and 
progressive  policies  always  meet  with  the  fierce  opposition  of  "  prac- 
tical nien."  Do  you  advise  the  Sacramento  Valley  to  withdraw  from 
the  business  of  raising  wheat  at  a  loss  and  to  irrigate,  subdivide, 
and  diversify  7  Then  you  are  "  utterly  impracticable."  Do  you 
want  to  abolish  the  water  laws  that  have  worked  disastrously  and 
put  in  their  place  the  successful  code  of  Wyoming?  "Impractic* 
able"  again  1  Do  yoa  urge  cooperative  buying  and  selling  among 
the  producers  of  California  7  Would  you  face  the  admitted  evil  ot 
great  unproductive  estates  with  the  just  and  effective  remedies  ap- 
plied by  men  of  your  own  race  and  time  in  other  lands?  Well,  well  I 
Yon  are  a  walking  embodiment  of  impractibility  in  its  most  hopeless 
and  ridiculous  aspect  1  The  "  practical  man"  contends  that  things 
which  have  failed  are  splendidly  successful  if  they  are  old,  and  that 
things  which  have  succeeded  are  dangerous  and  Utopian  if  they 
happen  to  be  new  in  this  particular  latitude.  And  the  only  comfort 
that  is  left  for  the  "  impracticable  man"  is  the  fact  that  his  kind 
monopolizes  the  pages  of  history,  while  the  other  kind  who  said  that 


■•86  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

thingrs   conld  not  and  must  not  Ibe  done  have  gone  down  "to  the 
tonguelesa  silence  of  the  voiceless  dust." 
TWBEDLBDDU  Tiiere  is  another  charge  for  which  we  muBt  be  prepared. 

*>^^  If  we   favor  public  works  of   irrigation  in   Califoraia   we 

TWBEDUDEK.  ^,,^j,  1^  branded  as  Socialists.  Is  Theodore  Roosevelt  a 
Socialist  because  he  favors  public  works  of  irrigation  throughont 
the  West?  Is  James  J.  Hill,  the  malti-tnillionaire  president  of  the 
great  combination  recently  formed  to  own  42,000  miles  of  railroad,  a 
Socialist  because  be  favors  the  same  thing?  Were  the  framers  of 
the  last  Republican  and  Democratice  National  platforms  Socialists 
because  thej  made  exactly  the  same  declaration  7  Surelj  no  odc 
would  advance  the  silly  sophistry  that  it  is  Socialism  for  the  State 
to  build  irrigation  works,  but  not  Socialism  at  all  for  the  nation  to 
do  identiii^tly  the  same  thing.  "  Liet'a  have  some  sense!"  as  a  famous 
debater  used  to  say.  No,  gentlemen,  the  truly  practical  man  is  the 
one  who  stands  for  a  wise  and  workable  idea,  whether  it  be  new  or 
old.  And  yon  can  never  stigmatize  the  man  who  favors  public 
works  in  California  unless  you  do  the  same  to  the  man  who  favors 
public  works  elsewhere.  You  will  have  to  find  stronger  arguments 
than  these  if  you  want  to  win  the  verdict  of  the  people,  or  even  save 
your  reputation  for  ordinary  intelligence. 

"  The  CAN'T-  There  is  still  another  argument  to  confront  the  advocates 

BB-DOKB  Qf  reform.    They  will  be  told  that  even  if  their  ideas  are 

SCHOOi,.  g^nd  they  can  never  be  carried  out  in  CaUfomia.  The 
masses  of  the  people  are  too  indifferent,  the  forces  of  the  opposition 
too  powerful.  On  that  theory  there  could  never  be  any  progress  in 
this  world.  Columbus  could  never  have  discovered  America,  the 
great  Republic  could  never  have  been  founded,  and  slavery  could 
never  have  l)een  abolished.  But  Christopher  Columbus,  George 
Washington  and  Sam  Adami,  Lloyd  Garrison  and  Wendell  Phillips 
refused  to  subscribe  to  that  theory.  And  there  are  some  earnest  and 
obstinate  souls  in  California  who  refuse  to  subscribe  to  it.  Like 
other  men  who  have  braved  opposition  in  order  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of 
battling  for  what  they  believed  to  be  eternally  right,  the  friends  of 
reform  in  California  will  put  their  hands  to  the  plow  and  do  what 
they  can.  And  if  they  do  not  live  to  behold  the  fruits  of  their 
labors  their  children  or  their  grandchildren  are  likely  to  do  ao. 


w 


487 

A  Program  for  California. 

|ITH  its  next  number  this  magfazine  takes  a  new 
name  and  enters  upon  new  and  broader  purposes. 
In  his  editorial  announcement  in  October  Mr.  Lum- 
missaid:  *'Il  will  be  the  standard-bearer  of  what  it  be- 
lieves to  be  the  right  solution  of  the  most  tremendous  prob- 
lems this  half  of  the  United  States  has  ever  faced ;  and  it 
will  reach  out  to  problems  that  cannot  much  longer  be 
dodged  by  either  the  business  or  the  scholarship  of  the 
country  at  large." 

It  will  be  the  work  of  this  department  to  deal  fully  and 
fearlessly,  but  always  fairly,  with  the  great  vital  questions 
involved  in  developing  the  social  and  economic  character  of 
California  and  the  West.  The  writer  has  devoted  the  best 
years  of  his  life  to  fitting  himself  for  such  a  task.  He 
knows  the  history  and  resources  of  this  Western  land  be- 
cause he  has  studied  them  as  other  men  study  law  or 
science  or  the  various  lines  of  business  in  which  they  are 
engaged.  He  knows  the  people  and  the  life  of  the  people 
because  he  has  associated  with  them,  worked  with  them, 
suffered  with  them,  and  struggled  with  them  in  the  strife 
and  friction  of  growing  institutions.  He  has  tried  to  know 
the  needs  of  this  region  and  to  learn  the  remedies  for  the 
obstacles  and  evils  which  hamper  its  progress.  And  now 
the  time  has  come  for  action — the  time  to  propose  measures 
and  submit  them  for  the  consideration  of  the  people  of 
California,  the  West,  and  the  nation. 

THE  STATE  AS  IT  REAI^I^Y  IS. 

Now,  what  is  California  ? 

It  is,  of  course,  first  and  foremost  among  the  States 
which  make  up  the  Western  half  of  the  Republic.  All 
that  Massachusetts  and  New  York  are  to  the  Atlanv'^c  sea- 
board California  is  to  the  Pacific  seaboard.  It  is  the 
Leader  in  commerce,  in  science,  in  letters,  and  in  art. 
And  so  it  must  always  be. 

California  is  the  land  of  the  Sun,  the  land  of  mighty 
trees,  the  land  of  fruits  and  flowers  and  gold.  All  this  ^  e 
know  and  every  schoolboy  knows  it  by  heart.  But  does  it 
follow  that  California  is  a  finished  country — its  foundatior.s 


488  LAND    OF   SUNSHtNE. 

laid  broad  and  true,  its  superstructtire  built  story  upon 
story,  its  culminating  domes  and  turrets  reaching^  to  the 
sky  and  looking  down*on  a  perfected  and  faultless  civiliza- 
tion ?  Is  there  nothing  more  to  be  done  ?  Beyond  the 
palms,  the  magnolias,  and  the  orange  groves,  back  of  the 
splendid  heritage  of  soil  and  climate,  of  stately  forests,  of 
towering  mountains,  and  enfolding  seas,  is  there  no  in- 
spiring task  for  men  to  do  ? 

Aye,  the  real  living,  breathing  California  is  but  a  raw 
and  uncouth  thing,  waiting  to  be  civilized,  waiting  to  be 
shaped,  waiting  to  be  hammered  into  the  form  of  beauti- 
ful, just,  and  enduring  institutions  on  the  anvil  of  debate, 
by  the  brawny  strength  of  a  great  people.  We  have 
praised  it  enough.  Let  us  do  better  now — let  us  make  it 
worthy  of  our  praise.  Let  us  close  our  eyes  to  its  scenic 
and  climatic  glories  and  open  our  eyes  to  its  civic,  economic, 
and  social  nakedness. 

Let  us  forget  for  the  time  the  few  perfect  types  of  civili- 
zation that  dot  our  valleys — our  Redlands,  our  Riverside, 
and  our  Ontario — which  we  photograph  and  exhibit  to  the 
world.  And  let  us  remember  the  great  sprawling  wilder- 
nesses of  barren  soil  which  we  do  not  photograph  and  ex- 
hibit. Let  us  cease  talking  of  our  masonry  dams,  ce- 
mented ditches,  and  underground  pipes,  and  talk  for  a 
while  of  the  wasted  floods  and  parched  valleys  that  know 
not  dams,  ditches,  or  pipes.  Let  us  turn  from  those  cele- 
brated examples  of  f  ruitf ulness,  where  men  live  amid  beauty 
and  plenty,  to  those  voiceless  valleys  where  fourfooted 
beasts  trample  the  fertile  soil  that  should  sustain  millions 
of  men,  women,  and  children. 

Let  us  put  out  of  mind  for  the  present  the  few  little 
farms  which  have  made  California  a  charmed  word  all  over 
the  earth,  and  fix  our  gaze  on  the  great  useless  estates  that 
impoverish  the  commonwealth  without  enriching  their 
owners.  Let  us  cease  our  paeans  to  the  Big  Trees,  and 
think  of  the  forest  fires  that  dry  the  fountain  at  its  source 
and  rob  future  generations  of  their  birthright.  Let  us 
stop  bragging  about  the  wonderful  iron  works  that  '*  built 
the  Oregon,"  and  contemplate  the  cruel  war  between  capi- 
tal and  labor  which  shut  those  works  down  and  filled  the 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  489 

streets  of  San  Francisco  with  idle  men  and  special  police — 
the  thin  crust  of  a  social  volcano. 

In  a  word,  let  us  look  at  California  as  it  really  is — a 
State  of  enormous  possibilities  and  meager  achievement ; 
a  State  that  could  support  forty  millions,  yet  increased  less 
rapidly  than  Massachusetts  in  the  last  ten  years  ;  a  State 
with  congested  cities  and  stagnant  or  languishing  agricul- 
ture ;  a  State  preeminently  fitted  by  nature  to  be  the  para- 
dise of  the  common  people,  yet  branded  with  monopoly- 
ownership  of  land  and  water  and  cleaving  to  the  barbarism 
of  physical  force  in  the  settlement  of  its  labor  disputes. 

Nowhere  else  is  there  another  land  for  which  God  has 
done  so  much  and  man  has  done  so  little.  What  are  its 
true  economic  problems  ?  What  are  its  real  social  ques- 
tions ? 

TAey  are  the  problems  and  the  questions  of  water ^  of  land^ 
and  of  labor. 

How  are  they  to  be  met  and  solved  ? 

THE  STATE  EI*ECTlON  OF   1902. 

Next  year  California  will  face  the  duties  and  opportuni- 
ties of  a  quadrennial  election.  It  is  at  the  ballotbox,  and 
there  alone,  that  the  people  may  register  entire  satisfac- 
tion with  things  as  they  are,  or  may  decree  that  things 
shall  be  diflEerent  hereafter. 

There  are  few  States  which  choose  a  Governor  no  of tener 
than  the  nation  chooses  a  President.  There  is  none  other 
in  which  the  selection  of  a  Chief  Magistrate  signifies  so 
little  as  to  the  policy  of  the  commonwealth.  When  has  a 
candidate  for  this  highest  office  in  California's  gift  brought 
forward  great  measures  and  said  to  his  fellow-citizens  : 
"  This  is  what  I  stand  for.  If  I  am  chosen,  my  adminis- 
tration will  inaugurate  these  new  policies  with  the  confi- 
dent expectation  of  increasing  the  prosperity  and  greatness 
of  the  State." 

In  other  States,  in  the  Nation  at  large,  in  the  countries 
of  Europe,  and  in  the  self-governing  English  colonies,  elec^ 
tions  turn  upon  measures  proposed  by  statesmen.  But  in 
California  the  precious  opportunity  which  comes  but  once 
in  four  years  is  frittered  away  in  trivial  strife  between 
small  politicians.     Did  this  candidate  steal  a  sheep  in  his 


490  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

boyhood  ?  Did  that  candidate  once  express  admiration  for 
the  works  of  Henry  Greorge  ?  Such  are  the  mighty  issues 
upon  which  newspapers,  speakers,  clubs,  and  voters  Yiotk 
themselves  into  a  frenzy  of  enthusiasm  and  abuse. 

What  is  the  grand  result  ?  The  winning  party  gets  the 
offices.  If  the  other  party  had  won,  another  set  of  poli- 
ticians would  have  got  the  offices.  And  that  is  all  tHe 
difference  there  is  between  them  so  far  as  State  affairs  axe 
concerned.  No  evils  are  reformed.  No  constructive  policies 
are  inaugurated.  The  x>oliticians  draw  their  salaries. 
That  is  the  beginning  and  the  end  of  the  whole  x)erform- 
ance.  In  the  meantime,  we  proceed  for  another  four  years 
without  lifting  a  finger  to  build  the  State. 

The  first  item  in  an  enlightened  program  for  California 
would  be  this  : 

7^0  vitalize  the  -politics  of  the  State  and  compel  it  to  deal 
with  living  measures  of  constructive  character. 

WATBR — THE    PROBLEM  OF  PRGBI^EMS. 

The  overshadowing  question  in  the  economic  life  of 
California  is  this — How  shall  we  get  the  water  distributed 
over  the  largest  possible  area  of  land  ? 

A  few  favored  localities  have  solved  this  problem  for 
themselves  by  tireless  labor  and  daring  investment.  But 
speaking  broadly,  this  is  a  State  which  needs  irrigation 
and  has  no  present  means  of  getting  it.  We  are  practically 
no  better  off  with  our  present  laws  than  we  would  be  if  we 
had  no  laws  at  all.  Indeed,  while  none  of  our  laws  are 
helpful,  some  of  them  are  positively  harmful.  Such  is  the 
riparian  law.  The  anarchy  resulting  from  present  methods 
of  appropriating  and  distributing  water,  and  the  deep 
menace  to  the  economic  liberties  of  our  people  involved  in 
the  growing  monopoly  of  this  vital  element,  have  been 
treated  in  recent  numbers  of  this  magazine.  The  specific 
reforms  suggested  for  this  condition  of  things  by  the 
government  are  presented  elsewhere  in  this  number. 

But  when  these  important  reforms  shall  have  taken  the 
place  of  our  present  meager  and  illogical  water  code,  and 
of  that  thing  of  shreds  and  patches — the  judicial  decisions 
construing  the  present  code — what  then  ?    Litigation  over 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  ^^1 

existing  rights  will  cease.  That  is  a  great  thing.  The 
supply  will  then  be  distributed  in  a  legal  and  orderly 
manner  by  public  authority.  That  is  another  great 
thing.  But  there  will  be  no  more  water  than  there 
is  now.  And  there  is  not  enough  now  to  fill  existing 
canals.  Where  is  the  increasing  supply  to  come  from  ?  It 
can  only  come  by  the  storage  of  flood  waters.  Is  it  to  be 
stored  by  private  enterprise  ?  If  so,  it  will  strengthen  and 
entrench  the  principle  of  private  water  monopoly  in  Cali- 
fornia. Furthermore,  even  this  dangerous  method  of  get- 
ting our  lands  watered  is  a  remote  possibility,  since  irriga- 
tion is  much  too  slow  in  its  returns  to  tempt  investment  in 
a  large  way. 

There  is  but  one  remedy.  It  is  the  remedy  of  Italy, 
Prance  and  Spain  ;  the  remedy  of  India,  Egypt,  Australia, 
and  Canada.  That  remedy  is  a  comprehensive  system  of 
public  works. 

There  are  two  classes  of  arid  land  in  California — 
public  and  private  land.  The  former  is  remote  from  rail- 
ways, mostly  east  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains.  We 
now  look  hopefully  to  the  government  to  store  the  flood 
waters  essential  to  the  irrigation  of  these  public  lands. 
And  let  it  be  remembered  that  this  policy  will  be  the 
nation's  endorsement  of  the  proposition  for  public  irriga- 
tion works.  But  no  one  expects  the  nation  to  water  our 
millions  of  acres  of  private  land.  How,  then,  shall  it  be 
done  ?  It  can  only  be  accomplished  by  public  works  built 
by  the  State.  They  must  be  paid  for  by  direct  taxation, 
which  should  probably  be  levied  upon  neighborhoods  im- 
mediately benefited,  but  the  State  itself  must  vouch  for  the 
securities  issued  for  this  purpose  and  must  assume  the 
burden  of  administration.  We  have  tried  local  districts 
with  local  management  and  they  have  failed.  But  the 
great  principle  underlying  public  works  and  the  attachment 
of  the  water-right  to  the  soil  is  vindicated  by  centuries  of 
experience  in  foreign  lands,  as  it  is  also  vindicated  in  the 
successful  experience  of  our  own  race  in  Australia. 

Therefore,  the  second  item  in  a  program  for  California 
would  be  this : 


^W  LAND   OF  SUNSHIN£. 

Public  irrigatum  woris — construcUd  by  the  nation  ivken 
public  lands  are  to  be  watered^  and  by  the  State  when  frivnte 
lands  are  to  be  watered. 

to  GIVE  THB  PEOPI«S  ACCESS   TO  THE  LAND. 

California  cannot  be  a  sTi'^at  State  in  the  full  sense  of 
the  term  until  it  solves  the  problem  of  g'iving'  the  masses 
of  men  easy  access  to  the  soil.  What  now  stands  in  the 
way  of  this  result  ?  First,  the  fact  that  many  of  the 
richest  localities  are  held  in  large  private  estates  dating: 
back  to  the  Spanish  sfrants  or  to  the  time  when  such  hold- 
ings were  easily  consolidated  under  the  loose  land  laws  of 
the  United  States.  Second,  to  the  fact  that  when  private 
lands  are  offered  for  sale  they  are  generally  held  at  a  price 
which  precludes  their  acquirement  by  men  of  small  means; 
or,  when  they  may  be  cheaply  had,  that  they  are  quickly 
taken  up  for  speculation  in  large  areas. 

These  facts  are  notorious.  Consider  two  typical  in- 
stances. 

There  is  the  splendid  Bidwell  estate  in  the  Sacramento 
Valley,  near  Chico.  Here  is  one  of  the  grandest  tracts  of 
land  in  the  State.  Greneral  Bidwell  bought  it  for  a  trifling 
sum  half  a  century  ago.  He  farmed  it  upon  a  large  scale 
in  grain,  but  planted  extensive  orchards  and  vineyards, 
also.  He  loved  it  so  well  that  he  would  not  sell  a  foot  of 
it.  He  was  the  lord  of  a  little  kingdom,  with  fertile  bottom 
land,  woods  and  upland,  streams  and  mountains.  In  the 
midst  of  this  paradise  he  built  a  stately  home.  But  in  the 
end  the  enterprise  was  not  a  financial  success  and  the  losses 
of  many  years  left  it  heavily  encumbered.  Since  its  owner's 
death  a  portion  of  it  has  been  subdivided  and  offered  for 
sale  at  prices  ranging  from  $50  to  $150  per  acre.  It  is  well 
worth  the  price  if  any  land  is  worth  it,  but  when  the 
pecuniary  resources  of  the  landless  class  of  the  United 
States  are  considered,  the  price  is  seen  to  be  practically 
prohibitory. 

The  result  of  having  this  estate  owned  by  one  man  is 
found  to  be  this  :  During  Bidwell's  lifetime  the  growth  of 
Chico  and  the  Sacramento  Valley  was  hindered  by  the 
existence  of  this  great  holding.  When  the  General  died, 
the  property  was  offered  at  a  price  reasonable  enough,  all 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST,  493 

things  considered,  and  yet  beyond  the  reach  of  those  who  need 
homes. 

Take  a  different  instance,  where  equally  good  land,  enjoying 
the  very  best  water  supply  in  the  State,  is  offered  at  a  low  price. 
Such  is  the  case  on  the  Colorado  Delta.  Land  and  water  are 
sold  at  $20  an  acre,  though  a  year  ago  they  could  be  had  at 
$5.75.  The  prices  were  gradually  raised  to  the  present  terms. 
Over  100,000  acres  have  been  taken  up  at  an  average  price 
probably  not  exceeding  $10  per  acre.  A  very  large  proportion 
of  it  went  not  to  homeseekers,  but  to  speculators  who  expect  to 
make  large  profits  from  real  homeseekers  later  on.  It  does  not 
follow  that  the  managers  of  the  enterprise  or  the  speculators 
are  open  to  blame.    The  fault  resides  in  the  system. 

The  fact  is  that  the  masses  of  men  crowded  into  the  cities 
East  and  West  cannot  get  easy  access  to  the  soil  under  present 
conditions.  The  loss  resulting  from  this  fact  is  not  merely  the 
loss  of  those  who  would  like  to  acquire  homes.  It  is  the  loss 
of  railroads,  banks,  and  merchants.  It  is  the  loss  of  entire 
local  communities,  of  the  State,  and  of  the  nation.  It  is  the 
loss  of  the  race  and  the  loss  of  civilization. 

Is  there  any  reasonable  way  in  which  these  large  estates 
may  be  opened  to  the  public  without  injustice  to  their  present 
owners  and  on  such  terms  as  the  mass  of  men  can  accept  ?  Is 
there  any  practical  method  by  which  the  forestalling  of  actual 
settlers  on  cheap  public  lands  may  be  prevented?  If  it  be  pos- 
sible to  answer  these  questions  affirmatively  it  would  mean  a 
tremendous  gain  for  California  and  the  world. 

The  first  thing  that  we  need  to  learn  in  dealing  with  the 
subject  is  that  we  of  California  do  not  know  everything.  We 
have  not  all  the  wisdom  and  valuable  experience.  Other  men 
in  other  lands  have  dealt  with  the  same  problem.  It  is  just 
possible  that  we  may  learn  something  from  them. 

New  Zealand  is,  perhaps,  the  most  progressive  country  in 
the  world.  Years  ago  its  people  were  so  anxious  to  interest 
capital  and  settlers  in  that  far  island  that  they  threw  open  their 
natural  wealth  of  land  and  waters  on  the  easiest  terms.  The 
result  was  that  the  best  land  and  most  valuable  river-fronts 
were  quickly  taken  up  as  the  foundation  of  great  estates.  By 
the  end  of  a  generation  it  was  found  that  if  New  Zealand 


^^  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

was  ever  to  become  the  home  of  large  numbers  of  small  farm- 
ers,— ^if  the  surplus  town  population  was  ever  to  have  the  op- 
portunity to  swarm  upon  the  soil, — ^it  would  be  necessary  to 
adopt  some  entirely  new  principles  in  legislation  and  admin- 
istration. 

What  did  New  Zealand  do?  It  decided  to  acquire  the  great 
estates  gradually  by  purchase.  Generally  their  owners  were 
not  unwilling  to  exchange  their  property  for  government 
bonds,  since  large  holdings  are  seldom  profitable  when  con- 
sidered over  a  period  of  years.  So  it  happened  that  more 
property  was  offered  the  government  than  it  has  thus  far 
cared  to  buy.  But  sometimes  particular  properties  have  been 
desired  which  the  owners  were  unwilling  to  part  with.  Then 
the  government  condemned  them  and  took  them  for  just  com- 
pensation. The  New  Zealanders  have  a  shrewd  way  of  hand- 
ling such  matters.  They  assess  property  for  taxation  at  what 
they  consider  its  real  value.  They  then  provide  that  if  the 
owner  complains  of  exorbitant  valuation  the  State  may  pur- 
chase the  property  at  that  price,  plus  ten  per  cent.  Hence, 
the  landowner  bears  his  full  burden  of  taxation  or  sells  his 
property  to  the  State. 

Having  acquired  these  lands  what  does  the  State  do  with 
them  ?  It  provides  them  with  necessary  public  improvements, 
such  as  roads,  bridges,  and  canals,  and  then  proceeds  to  sub- 
divide them  for  small  farms  with  convenient  village  centers. 
This  done,  it  opens  them  to  settlement  under  a  plan  which 
brings  them  within  easy  reach  of  the  masses  of  the  people. 

The  little  farms  are  not  sold,  but  leased  in  a  way  that  is 
equivalent  to  ownership.  The  leases  are  for  999  years.  Why 
are  they  are  not  sold  outright?  For  two  reasons.  First,  be- 
cause that  means  that  they  would  be  mortgaged,  sold,  and 
finally  consolidated  again  into  great  estates.  This  is  the  his- 
tory of  the  world.  For  instance,  look  at  the  thousands  of 
acres  which  have  passed  to  banks  in  California.  The  second 
reason  is  that  the  State  considers  it  good  public  policy  to  dic- 
tate the  size  of  farms,  the  character  of  improvements,  and  the 
manner  in  which  they  shall  pass  from  one  proprietor  to  an- 
other. 

Upon  what  terms  do  the  people  get  these  lands?  They 
pay  no  purchase  price  and  are  thus  able  to  use  all  their  little 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  495 

capital  for  improvements  and  to  sustain  themselves  until  their 
places  come  into  bearing.  They  lease  them  at  five  per  cent 
on  the  cost  to  the  State.  Thus  if  the  land  and  improvements 
cost  the  State  $30  an  acre  the  settler  pays  an  annual  rent  of 
$1.50,  or  $15  a  year  for  ten  acres,  including  the  advantages 
of  public  improvements.  If  the  cost  be  $50  an  acre  the  rent 
is  $2.50 ;  if  $100  an  acre,  the  rent  is  $5.00.  Few  men  are  so 
poor  that  they  cannot  get  land  enough  to  sustain  their  families 
on  these  favorable  terms. 

The  first  great  advantage  of  the  New  Zealand  plan  is  that 
It  kills  land  monopoly.  The  second,  that  it  kills  land  specu- 
lation. The  third,  that  it  throws  wide  open  the  door  of  op- 
portunity to  millions  of  people  possessing  very  moderate 
means.  The  fourth,  that  by  encouraging  rapid  settlement  it 
benefits  railroads,  banks,  merchants, — every  element  in  the 
community.  The  adoption  of  these  plans  here  would  make 
California  indeed  the  paradise  of  the  common  people  and  the 
Mecca  of  homeseekers  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Therefore,  the  third  item  in  a  program  for  California  would 
be  this: 

To  adopt  the  New  Zealand  method  of  purchasing,  improv- 
ing, and  leasing  the  great  estates  as  a  means  of  giving  the 
masses  of  men  easy  access  to  the  soil. 

ABOLISH  DISASTROUS  STRIKES  IfOREVER. 

The  recent  strike  in  San  Francisco  is  a  blot  on  the  history 
of  California.  Thousands  of  men  were  idle  for  weeks.  The 
children  of  some  of  them  no  doubt  suflFered  the  pangs  of  hun- 
ger. Assaults  were  committed  and  blood  was  shed.  Ships 
lay  idle  in  the  harbor  while  people  suffered  for  their  unloaded 
cargoes.  The  evil  consequences  were  not  confined  to  the  em- 
ployers and  workmen  immediately  involved,  nor  even  to  the 
city  in  which  they  lived.  All  the  economic  elements  which  go 
to  make  up  the  industrial  life  of  the  State  are  interdependent. 
When  the  grain-ship  lies  idle  in  the  stream  the  wheat  must 
remain  on  the  wharf.  Tfiat  means  that  ranches  far  remote 
from  the  scene  of  the  strike  cannot  sell  their  product.  And 
that  fact  means  further  that  the  farmer  cannot  pay  his  bills 
to  the  storekeeper,  nor  the  storekeeper  settle  with  the  whole- 
sale merchant  or  the  bank.  The  result  is  general  business 
paralysis  and  widespread  suffering.    In  the  meantime,  capital 


♦^  LAND   OF  SUNSHINE. 

and  labor  stand  face  to  face  with  no  means  of  settling  their 
differences  except  by  actual  force.  The  strike  must  go  on  until 
the  employer  is  confronted  with  loss  and  ultimate  ruin  or  until 
his  workmen  are  starved  into  submission.  And  that  is  bar- 
barism. 

Have  a  few  employers  and  workingmen  in  San  Francisco 
any  moral  right  to  imperil  the  welfare  of  the  entire  State 
whenever  they  happen  to  have  a  disagreement  among  them- 
selves? Have  they  a  moral  right  even  to  inflict  wanton  injury 
upon  their  own  families?  If  so,  why  do  we  restrain  men 
from  committing  suicide?  Why  do  we  compel  them  to  sup- 
port their  wives  and  children?  Why  do  we  do  anything  to 
subserve  the  common  good  ? 

New  Zealand  is  happy  and  prosperous  as  "the  land  without 
strikes."  It  has  a  system  of  compulsory  arbitration.  It  would 
have  been  impossible  for  the  San  Francisco  strike  to  have 
occurred  at  Wellington,  Dunedin  or  Christchurch. 

In  California  we  have  compulsory  arbitration  about  every- 
thing else  but  leave  the  most  important  disputes  to  be  settled 
by  those  two  grim  arbiters,  the  Depleted  Bank  Account  and 
the  Empty  Stomach.  When  two  men  disagree  about  a  matter 
of  five  dollars,  or  a  matter  of  boundary  lines  between  their 
back  yards,  either  can  bring  the  other  into  court  and  compel 
him  to  submit  the  matter  to  compulsory  arbitration.  But 
when  one  hundred  employers  have  a  disagreement  with  ten 
thousand  workmen  about  a  matter  which  involves  the  welfare 
of  fifty  thousand  men,  women  and  children  directly,  and  of  a 
million  and  a  half  people  indirectly,  we  stand  impotent  and 
helpless  in  the  face  of  the  emergency. 

Such  a  condition  of  affairs  amounts  to  an  indictment  of 
our  intelligence,  of  our  patriotism,  of  our  Christianity.  The 
details  of  the  New  Zealand  plan  will  be  published  in  this  de- 
partment later.  In  the  meantime,  the  need  of  such  a  sensible 
and  statesmanlike  solution  of  the  constantly-recurring  labor 
troubles  in  our  principal  cities  makes  it  plain  that  the  fourth 
item  in  a  program  for  California  should  be  this: 

To  adopt  the  New  Zealand  system  of  compulsory  arbitration 
for  the  settlement  of  all  disputes  between  capital  and  labor. 

DEVELOP  THE  POSSIBIUTIES  O^  CO-OPERATION. 

Naturally  and  almost  imperceptibly,  in  logical  response  to 


20TH    CENTURY    WEST.  497 

its  economic  necessities,  California  has  entered  in  the  last  few 
years  upon  the  practice  of  commercial  co-operation.  A  large 
proportion  of  its  enormous  fruit  output  is  controlled  by  ex- 
changes organized  and  conducted  by  producers.  Co-operative 
stores  and  creameries  are  spreading  throughout  the  State.  The 
famous  Rochdale  system  maintains  a  wholesale  department  at 
San  Francisco. 

It  is  already  plain  that  co-operation  is  to  be  the  most  vital 
force  in  our  future  economic  life,  but  it  must  go  much  further 
than  it  has  yet  done  and  it  must  be  supported  by  the  public 
opinion.  One  of  the  great  unsettled  questions  of  California  is 
the  question  of  markets.  The  problem  is  to  extend  the  demand 
for  California  products  and  to  have  those  products  handled 
as  economically  as  possible,  so  that  the  largest  share  of  profits 
may  find  its  way  into  the  pockets  of  the  actual  producers.  This 
problem  will  become  more  urgent  as  settlement  and  production 
increase.  Closely  related  to  the  problem  of  selling  advantage- 
ously is  the  problem  of  buying  necessary  supplies  as  cheaply 
as  possible.  "A  penny  saved  is  a  penny  earned.''  Hence,  co- 
operative buying  is  just  as  important  as  co-operative  selling. 

In  many  foreign  countries  the  cultivation  of  co-operative 
methods  in  industry  is  considered  as  much  a  concern  of  gov- 
ernment as  the  oversight  of  banking  and  insurance  business 
is  in  this  State.  In  Holland,  Belgium,  and  other  countries  the 
common  prosperity  has  been  wonderfully  increased  by  these 

methods.  In  Ireland  the  whole  face  of  industry  has  been 
changed.     The  reorganization  of  English  agriculture  on  the 

same  basis  is  now  under  careful  consideration. 

It  should  be  the  policy  of  California  to  encourage  the  study 
of  co-operation  as  one  of  the  most  important  means  of  increas- 
ing its  prosperity.  The  whole  influence  of  the  State  should 
be  thrown  upon  that  side.  The  university  should  take  up  the 
matter  as  a  legitimate  and  very  practical  part  of  the  economic 
training  supplied  to  its  students.  We  must  have  in  the  future 
a  great  body  of  trained  co-operators  to  assist  our  producers 
in  buying,  selling,  and  manufacturing  upon  scientific  lines. 
The  fifth  item  in  a  program  for  California  should  be  this : 

To  encourage  the  extension  of  co-operative  methods 
throughout  the  industrial  life  of  the  State  for  the  purpose  of 
widening  the  California  market,  at  home  and  abroad,  and  of 


498  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

effecting  the  utmost  economy  in  sale  of  products  and  purchase 
of  supplies. 

TO  MAKE  THE  IDEAL  A  REALITY. 

Such  is  the  program  for  California  which  this  magazine  will 
take  up  for  elaborate  discussion  during  the  next  twelve 
months.  In  doing  so  it  will  furnish  the  fullest  exposition  of 
the  material  resources  and  of  the  social  and  economic  life  of 
our  great  Pacific  commonwealth  which  has  ever  been  made  in 
any  single  publication.  The  subject  will  be  considered  from 
the  standpoint  of  many  different  localities  and  from  the  point 
of  view  of  many  different  men.  The  treatment  of  the  matter 
will  not  take  the  tone  of  special  pleading.  We  believe  all  the 
features  of  this  program  are  well  adapted  to  the  peculiar  con- 
ditions of  California  and  most  other  Western  States,  but  there 
are  many  persons  of  great  intelligence  and  undoubted  sincerity 
who  will  think  otherwise.  There  are  men  who  believe  the 
riparian  right  a  sacred  thing  which  must  not  be  disturbed. 
There  are  those  who  prefer  competition  to  co-operation,  those 
who  think  private  ownership  of  water  is  superior  to  public 
control,  and  those  who  would  regard  the  compulsory  settle- 
ment of  labor  disputes  as  a  dangerous  invasion  of  individual 
rights. 

Those  holding  views  in  utter  opposition  to  our  convictions 
— ^thc  best  and  ablest  of  them,  too, — will  be  invited  to  antago- 
nize every  feature  of  this  program  for  California  and  to  do 
it  in  these  pages.  We  believe  the  truth  can  stand  the  light. 
And  if  what  seems  to  us  like  the  truth  be  error  instead,  then 
God  forbid  that  we  should  mislead  a  single  soul  into  sup- 
porting it. 

But  our  position  has  been  carefully  considered.  We  do  not 
believe  it  can  be  shaken  by  all  the  forces  that  are  proverbially 
opposed  to  change  of  any  sort.  We  expect  to  see  it  emerge 
from  the  fires  of  discussion  stronger  and  clearer  than  it  goes 
in — the  invincible  and  unanswerable  program  for  the  making- 
of  a  great  State  from  the  raw  materials  of  California.  So 
believing,  we  propose  to  fight  for  it,  to  offer  it  to  the  people 
as  the  solution  of  existing  social  stagnation  and  econmic  evils, 
and  to  lend  all  the  aid  in  our  power  to  the  development  of  an 
earnest,  aggressive  movement  in  its  support. 

William  E.  Smythe. 


499 

The  Proposed  Reforms. 

CONCLUSIONS  OF  THE  GOVERNMENT  EXPERTS. 

The  specific  recommendations  for  the  reform  of  the  Cal- 
ifornia water  laws  submitted  by  the  nine  experts  who  pre- 
pared the  government  report  on  the  subject  are  as  follows  : 


i< 


1.  There  shotild  be  created  in  California  a  special  tribunal  entitled 
The  Board  of  Control  of  Waters,"  which  shall  have  the  determi- 
nation of  existing-  water  rights  and  the  control  of  the  establishment 
of  rights  hereafter.  This  board  shall  consist  of  one  attorney,  one 
business  man  and  one  civil  engineer,  all  of  good  character  and  estab- 
lished reputation,  to  be  selected  and  appointed  by  the  Supreme  Court 
of  the  State  and  to  hold  office  until  removed  for  cause.  The  salary 
of  this  board  should  not  be  less  than  $3,000  per  annum  each,  and  they 
should  be  allowed  a  clerk  at  a  salary  of  $1800  per  annum,  to  be  ap- 
pointed by  the  board. 

2.  There  should  be  an  executive  officer  of  the  board,  appointed  by 
them,  who  should  be  a  competent,  experienced  civil  engineer  and 
have  supreme  control  over  the  administration  of  the  water  supply 
and  its  distribution  to  the  parties  entitled  to  its  use.  The  title  of  the 
officer  should  be  *'  State  hydraulic  engineer." 

3.  The  State  legislature  should  by  statute  declare  that  the  com- 
mon-law doctrine  of  riparian  rights  is  inapplicable  to  the  prevailing 
conditions  in  California,  except  so  far  as  to  make  riparian  owners  on 
streams  preferred  users  of  the  natural  stream  flow  for  domestic  and 
stock  purposes. 

4.  The  statutes  of  California  passed  for  the  government  of  the 
appropriation  of  streams  shaU  declare  that  all  unappropriated 
waters  not  utilized  for  irrigation  at  the  date  of  the  passage  of  the 
act,  either  by  canals  or  reservoirs,  are  public  property,  and  all  irri- 
gation rights  to  be  established  hereafter  shall  be  attached  to  the 
land  for  which  the  appropriation  is  made.  The  volume  permitted  to 
be  appropriated  should  in  all  cases  be  limited  to  the  actual  necessi- 
ties of  economical  use,  to  be  determined  from  time  to  time  by  the 
State  hydraulic  engineer.  Priority  of  use  should  give  the  better 
right  as  between  parties  using  water  for  the  same  purpose. 

5.  There  should  be  entire  harmony  and  cooperation  between  the 
State  and  national  governments,  looking  to  the  fullest  possible  use 
of  the  waters  of  the  State  for  irrigation,  particularly  in  all  cases 
where  the  diversion  of  water  from  the  streams  may  tend  to  render 
navigable  streams  non-navigable.  To  accomplish  this  purpose  the 
national  government  should  take  measures  for  canalizing  the  rivers 
and  making  slackwater  navig-ation  on  the  streams,  thus  giving 
maximum  navigability  with  minimum  use  of  water.  A  wise  adjust- 
ment and  determination  of  the  volume  which  can  be  safely  taken 
from  the  tributaries  of  navigable  streams  for  irrigation  without  in- 


SCO  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

terfering'  with  tke  aUckwB.ter  naTi^tion  ahonld  be  nrgvd  upon  the 
national  eroTemment  as  an  argent  necesuty. 

6.  The 'work  of  the  national  government  in  promoting-  irrigation 
(ICTelopment,  in  addition  to  the  improvement  of  narigatioti,  sbonU 
also  inclnde  the  fullest  protection  of  the  forests,  constmction  of 
storag-e  reservoirs  for  impounding  water  to  be  used  on  the  pnblic 
lands,  and  a  continaation  of  the  hydrograpbic  and  topographic  work 
of  the  Geological  Survey  and  the  work  of  the  Department  of  Agri- 
caltnre  for  the  promotion  of  economic  methods  of  irrigation. 

7.  National  aid  in  constructing  storage  works  to  be  used  for  pri- 
vate lands  should  be  discouraged,  although  cases  might  occur  where 
reservoirs  built  to  serve  public  lands  would  also  be  serviceable  to 
adjacent  lands  in  private  ownership  that  had  once  been  owned  by  the 
United  States.  In  such  cases  the  use  of  reservoired  water  for  private 
lands  should  not  be  prohibited. 

8.  The  use  of  water  for  domestic  purposes  should  take  precedence 
over  all  other  uses.  The  use  of  water  for  the  production  of  power 
applied  to  the  pumping  of  water  for  domestic  purposes  and  irriga- 
tion should  be  recognized  as  oext  in  right.  In  those  sections  of  the 
State  where  mining  is  the  prevailing  industry,  mining  rights  to 
water  should  also  take  precedence  over  all  other  uses,  domestic  use 
alone  excepted. 

9.  The  Governor  of  the  State  should  be  asked  to  appoint  an  er- 
pert  nonpartisan  commission  to  frame  an  irrigation  law  or  laws 
which  should  fit  and  adapt  the  foregoing  recommendations  to  the 
State  constitution  and  present  the  results  in  the  form  that  they 
should  be  passed  by  the  State  Legislature. 

10.  The  State  Board  of  Control  should  be  intrusted  with  the 
power  and  duty  of  fixing  equitable  rates  for  the  sale  of  water  for 
irrigation  by  private  reservoir  and  canal  companies,  as  well  as  for 
-the  sale  of  water  rights. 


Saunterincs  at  Idyllwild 

no  bnrry  abont  anytbiaE  in  tbs  sDlversal  world.— Geo.  Euot. 

gRjrtODAY  there  is  rain  and  mists  quite  obscure  the  mountains, 
^^1  but  the  nearby  pines  and  oaks  in  shades  of  orang'e,  russet  and 
*  green  look  fair  and  fresh  from  my  tent  door.  The  rush  of 
the  little  stream  is  clear  through  the  open  silence  and  nature 
is  restfully  renevring'  her  wonderful  life.  Tomorrow  when  the  sun 
bursts  over  the  range,  the  glories  of  these  colors  and  the  intense  blue 
of  the  sky  may  seem  almost  garish  in  contrast  with  this  gray  day. 
After  one  rests,  the  first  wide  outlook  dispels  all  memories  of  the 


"  Tub  PiCTcrREsoDE  Samatokidu."      Pboto.  bf  Antolnetic  Wi] 

dusty  stage  ride  from  San  Jacinto  and  gives  the  salient  points  of  this 
charming  spot. 

On  the  northeast  rises  Tauquitz  Peak  and  just  below  lies  Lily 
Rock.  With  a  cultivated  imagination  it  is  easy  to  evolve  a  bowed 
and  cowled  bead  from  these  white  out-jutting  rocks,  and  to  call  this 
point  "  The  Weeping  Monk."  Mt.  San  Jacinto  is  quite  shut  out  from 
dwellers  in  the  valley,  but  all  hear  epic  lays  of  rugged  trail  through 
flower-decked  mountain-locked  valleys,  the  steep  ascent,  the  sheer 
perpendicular  walls  from  which  are  seen  the  vast  stretches  of  the 
Colorado  desert.  Three  days  suffice  for  this  gypsy-like  excursion 
through  delighful  wind-swept  solitudes  with  nightly  camp  fire  and 
homely  camp  fare.  Is  this  not  what  John  Muir  has  called  the  joy 
of  life? 

On  the  west,  low-shouldered  hills  are  lying,  and  here  from  Insfura- 
tion  Point  the  outlook  into  the  wide  valley  is  superb.  Sheltered  on 
the  west  by  the  Coast  range,  this  broad  valley  cradles  its  children  in 


504  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

nanuth  and  sunahine,  while  they  in  their  turn  embrace  their  way* 
ward  nestlingrs,  the  crowding:  foothills. 

Yonder,  behind  that  great  saddle-backed  mountain,  lies  the  home 
of  Modjeaka.  Awaj  to  the  northwest  is  shadowy,  misty  Mt.  San 
Antonio.  In  the  afternoon  light.  Lake  Blsinore  Bhittes  resplendent, 
and  later  is  lost  in  the  soft,  blue,  all-enfolding-  haze. 

Standing-  here,  the  murmur  of  water  comes  clearly,  distinctly,  to 
the  ears.  Just  a  fen  steps  to  the  left  a  rough  path  over  smooth  and 
slippery  boulders  leads  into  the  heart  of  Coldwater  Canon,  the 
favorite  jaunting  spot  of  -the  whole  valley. 

Another  incture  long  to  be  remembered  is  that  from  Tauquitz  Peak. 
This  trail,  winding  throngh  open  spaces  between  tall  yellow  pines 
and  graceful  oaks,  through  buckthorn,  lilac  and  manzanita  thickets, 
by  painter's  brush,  aster  and  fragrant  pennyroyal,  ever  higher  and 
ever  widening  in  view,  is  like  a  jewel  in  the  morning.     Up  past  the 


"  Thb  Suiw-MovlNb  OxKK  OF  TUB  LoaoBRS."      Phuto.  by  D.  S.  Mer 

the  slow-moving  oxen  of  the  loggers,  where  chaparral  grows  low 
and  lower  still,  where  gnarled  storm-swept  cedars  stretch  protect- 
ingly  over  the  way,  then  to  turn  and  find  the  wide  open  beneath  is  a 
joy  indeed.  On  one  side  lies  the  desert  softly  gray,  and  there  in  the 
broad  sunlight  are  the  little  hamlets  of  San  Jacinto  and  Hemet.  like 
faintly  traced  rectangles  and  square.  Nearer  and  more  distinct  are 
the  winding  courses  ot  the  erstwhile  torrent  beds,  and  ranches 
marked  by  clustering  trees.  Over  all  the  bright  foreground  and  far 
blue  perspective  lies  a  lofty  and  unbroken  silence. 

A  frost-touched  morning  and  stout  walking  boots  are  much  to  be 
desired  for  a  ramble  in  Lily  Caiion.  There  in  midsummer  swayed 
yellow  bells  of  Lilium  Parryi  and  starry  clusters  of  wild  azalea. 
Down  in  the  rank  growth  by  the  water's  edge  were  fragrant  hedges 
of  the  wild  rose.     With  the  feathery  fronds  of  the   Woodward! a  fern 


SAUNTERfNGS    AT   IDYLLWILD.  SOS 

grew  nodding  columbine  and  scarlet  monkej-flowcr.  Now  the  touch 
of  King-  Midas  leads  color  to  the  green  solitude,  and  gorgeous  golden 
oaks,  the  vivid  yellows  of  the  willow,  and  softer  tones  of  the  wild 
current  bring-  sunshine  into  the  shady  places.  All  is  silent  here  save 
the  fall  of  water,  the  swift  movement  of  lixard  or  ground  squirrel, 
the  faint  call  of  a  bird,  yet  the  camp  with  its  bustle  and  stir  is  not  a 
half  mile  awaj. 

Nearer  the  picturesque  sanatorium  with  its  gaj  company  of  tents, 
lie  golf  links,  a  tennis  court,  and  grounds  for  croquet.  Farther  on 
past  the  links,  through  sweet-scented  bracken  runs  the  laughing< 
hurrying  stream.  Just  here,  where  the  road  crosses  the  shallows' 
alders  crowd  with  smooth  while  trunks — the  leaves  a  delicate  tracery 
against  the  sky.    Here  willows  bend,  tangles  of  clematis  wave  and 


"Thb  PiCTUMBiiouB  Sanatoriou."  Photo.  by  Anioineiie  Wll 
late  scarlet  penstemon  and  fuchsia  still  fringe  the  way.  This,  as  welt 
as  every  other  out-going,  is  gladdened  by  the  birds.  That  distant 
tap,  tap,  is  from  the  carpenter  woodpecker  with  his  saucy  red  cap 
and  yet  more  saucy  ways,  Of  the  trees,  the  yellow  pine  knows  him 
best,  for  in  its  bark  he  bores  innumerable  holes  for  storing  acorns. 
Stellar's  crested  jay,  the  Western  bluebird  with  ruaty-red  breast. 
Brewer's  blackbird,  Anna's  hummer,  the  slender-billed  nuthatch, 
the  mountain  chickadee  are  all  most  familiar.  To  the  lover  of  burro 
rides,this  rocky  turn  of  the  road,  the  gleam  of  richly  reddened  cherries, 
the  great  uprooted  pines  on  either  side  are  guides  making  the  begin- 
ning of  a  beautiful,  yet  rather  difficult,  trail  leading  into  a  nameless 
cafion  just  across  from  Lily  Kock.  The  charm  of  this  caiion  is  moat 
potent ;  for  its  lovers  inevitably  return  and  the  temptation  to  linger 
there  is  strong.  After  the  deep-breathing  hour  of  climbing,  beds  of 
jrine  needles  bring  the  longing  for  a  lazy  half-awake  siesta,  lying 
prone  in  the  warm  sunlight,  fanned  by  soft  air  heavily  laden  here 
with  odors  of  cedar  and  balsam  fir. 


S06  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

Two  red-letter  dajn  a.re  those  which  mark  the  rides  to  Pine  Flats 
and  Strawberry  Hill.  'Tis  a  wild,  rough  trail  to  the  lonely  little 
valley— past  huge,  moaay  boulders,  down  into  bracken-filled  dells, 
across  the  tiny  thread  of  a  stream,  up  the  soft  leaf -cushioned 
knolls  and  out  into  the  light  with  the  flats  below.  To  Straw^- 
l)erry  Hill  the  road  winds  smoothly  along.  Here  Coulter  pin«s 
are  burdened  with  giant  cones  beaded  and  glistening;.  Sugar  pines 
swing  long,  light  pendants  from  the  extreme  tips  of  their  highest 
branches,  and  all  frame  distant  vistas  of  mountain  and  valley.  The 
little  climb  to  Sunset  Rock  is  preliminary  training  for  the  longer 
excursions  and  as  such  it  has  its  place.  The  long  drives  to  Hemet 
dam  and  lake,  together  with  the  detour  to  Thomas'  ranch  are  inter- 
esting in  their  own  way.  The  big  dam  holds  thirty-seven  thousand 
acre -fee  t^t  hat  is,  it  would  cover  thirty-seven  thousand  acresone  foot 

When  night  falls  on  Idyllwild,  it  is  rarely  beautiful.  First  come 
the  after-gtow  with  its  clear,  cold  tints,  then  the  deepening  dusk 
with  its  black  silhouettes  of  leafless  pines  stretching  bare  arms 
as  if  in  benison.  The  early  lights  of  Venus  and  Jupiter  gleam  low 
in  the  west ;  and  when  hours  are  "  wee  and  sma"  Orion  mounts 
high  and  shines  glowing,  scintillating,  above  the  sleeping  valley — 
the  valley  that  still  dreams  of  the  days  when  it  sheltered  Ramona 
and  Alessandro. 


In  Tropic  America. 

Jp^  F  late  years,  as  capital  has 
ImA  increased  in  tb«  United 
^-^  States,  add  rates  of  inter- 
est have  lessened,  the 
eyes  of  many  American  inves- 
tors have  been  turned  to  the  rich 
and  prom i sing'  fields  for  invest- 
ment to  the  south  of  us,  in  the 
Spanish -speaking  republics  of 
Mexico  and  Central  America. 
It  is  not  strange  that  this 
should  be  so.  but  rather  that  the 
enterprising  Yankees,  who  have 
been  reaching  out  alt  over  the  . 
world  in  their  quest  for  the  al-. 
*  CoBTA  RiCAK  Home.  mighty   dollar,    should   so   long 

have  overlooked  these  compara- 
3  rich  in  natural  resources,  nhich  are 
1  continent.  Of  late  quite  a  number  of 
Los  Angeles  people  have  become  interested  in  enterprises  of  various 
kinds  in  the  Spanish -American  countries  t>etween  the  United  States 
line  and  the  Isthmus.  It  is  not  difficult  to  foresee  a  time  when  Los 
Angeles  may  become  headquarters  for  American  investments  in 
those  countries.  Geographically,  the  city  is  within  a  little  more 
than  a  hnndred  miles  of  the  Mexican  line,  and  Spanish  is  widely 
spoken  in  Southern  California,  so  that  it  is  quite  natural  for  our 
capitalists  to  extend  their  operations  in  that  direction. 

Among  the  Spanish -American  countries  which  have  been  attract- 
ing special  attention  of  late  is  Costa  Kica,  a  land  that  is  known  to 
few  Americans,  except  by  name.  It  is  a  smalt  country,  as  we  are 
accustomed  to  estimate  size,  embracing  an  area  of  23,000  miles,  or 
rather  less  than  that  of  West  Virginia.  The  present  population  of  the 
country  is  estimated  at  about  300,000,  or  less  than  15  to  the  square 
mile.  Liike  California,  only  still  more  so,  it  is  a  land  of  great  cli- 
matic contrasts.  The  country  is  divided  into  three  zones,  the  hot 
lands,  in  the  low  region,  extending  from  the  seashore  to  an  elevation 
of  about  3,000  feet,  where  the  mean  annual  temperature  varies  from 
72  to  82  degrees,  the  temperate  lands,  extending  to  an  altitude  of  . 
7,500  feet,  and  the  /terras  /rias,  or  cold  lands,  lying  between  that  ele- 
vation and  the  summit  of  the  mountains.  Here  the  difference  be- 
tween the  temperature  of  day  and  night  is  keenly  felt.  The  ground 
is  sometimes  covered  with  white  frost  in  the  morning,  but  snow  is 
extremely  rare.  The  temperate  zone  possesses  a  climate  of  wonder- ' 
ful  salubrity.  The  land  is  well  watered  and  very  fertile,  and  the. 
landscape  is  a  succession  of  lovely  tropical  scenes.  The  mean  an- 
nual temperature  in  this  section  varies  from  57  degrees  to  68  degrees. 
As  in  California,  there  are  in  the  high  altitudes  two  seasons,  the  dry 

innttratloa*  tbrouvta  con  [teg;  of  Itae  Coflta  Rica  Drtelopment  Co. 


«»  LAND    OF    SUNSHINE. 

and  the  rainj.  It  usually  raina  there  from  Maj  to  Movember  oa  the 
Pacific  side,  but  on  the  Atlantic  coast  the  reverse  is  the  mle. 

Costa  Rica  poBsessea  an  enviable  gvograpbicat  location,  with  its 
long  line  of  sea  coast  on  both  oceans,  affordinff  many  fine  harbors 
within  easy  reach  of  the  great  markets  of  the  United  States,  With 
the  completion  of  the  Nicaragua  canal,  n-tiich  will  extend  along  th« 
northern  boundary  of  the  country,  the  ships  of  the  world  will  be 
brought  to  her  ports  and  the  value  of  land,  which  is  at  present  ab- 
surdly low,  in  proportion  to  the  value  of  the  products,  will  inevi- 
tably increase  greatly. 

The  natives  of  Costa  Rica  are  a  umple,  kindly  people,  who  arc 
satisfied  with  little,  leading  a  contented  life  and  having  few  ambi- 
tions.    The   materials  for  their  dwellings  are  cnt   in   the   forests. 


IN    TROPIC    AMERICA.  «» 

They  have  little  need  for  clothing-,  and  nature  provides  them  with 
ao  abundance  of  food.  Under  American  overseers  they  make  good 
laborers.  Plantation  hands  are  paid  from  50  to  75  cents  per  day  in 
gold. 

The  principal  products  of  the  soil  in  Costa  Kica  are  rubber,  cacao, 
bananas,  vanilla,  pineapples,  oranges,  lemona  and  coffee.  Kemark- 
sble  stories  are  told  of  the  big  profits  earned  by  the  few  enterprising 
Americana  who  have  gone  into  the  culture  of  these  products,  in  a 
business-like  way.  The  profits  per  acre,  after  the  first  few  years, 
are  said  to  range  from  SlOO  to  $600. 

Of  these  products,  by  far  the  most  profitable  is  rubber.  Knbber  is 
one  of  the  few  articles  of  universal  consumption  for  which  no  auc' 
cessfnl  substitute  has  yet  been  discovered.  When  the  late  CoUia  P. 
Huntington— -one  of  the  shrewdest  businesa  men  that  the  United 


States  has  produced — was  asked  what  he  would  do  to  make  a  fortune, 
if  he  were  a  young  man,  he  replied  that  he  would  go  into  the  rubber 
business  in  Africa.  The  rubber  grown  in  Costa  Rica  is  superior  to 
that  grown  in  Africa,  and  it  ia  an  interesting  fact  that  seeds  of  the 
rubber  tree  were  recently  shipped  from  Costa  Rica  to  the  Dark  Con- 
tinent. The  world's  supply  of  rubber  has  hitherto  been  derived  from 
wild  trees.  Owing  to  the  steadily  increasing  demand,  entire  forests 
have  been  ruthlessly  destroyed  by  the  natives,  so  that  the  world's 
supply  was  threatened.  Thia  led  a  fen  far-sighted  men  to  experi- 
ment with  the  artificial  growth  of  the  tree,  in  section))  where  it  ia 
indigenoUB,  and  the  results  have  been  excedingly  encouraging,  es- 
pecially in  Costa  Rica,  where  the  soil  and  climate  appear  to  t>e  better 


LAND    OPF   SUNSHINE. 

>  the  growth  of  this 
n  any  other  section,  *rith 
|sible  exception  of  the 
long  the  Amaaon,  in 
South  America.  Another  ad- 
vantage which  Coata  Rica  has  in 
the  production  of  rublwr  ia  that 
the  tree  begias  to  yield  a.t  an 
early  agre.  Along  the  Amazon 
the  trees  do  not  begin  to  yield 
until  they  are  from  12  to  15 
years  old,  and  even  then  produce 
only  a  small  quantity,  whereas 
the  Coata  Kica  variety  of  mbt>er 
tree,  in  a  suitable  location,  at- 
tains a  diameter  of  from  12  to  15 
inches  in  six  to  eight  years, 
when  its  production  will  averagie 
three  pounds  of  commercial  rut>- 
ber,  worth  75  cents  per  pound  on 
the  spot.  A  conservative  esti- 
mate of  the  net  profit  from  each 
tree  is  said  to  be  one  dollar,  and 
2O0  trecH  are  planted  to  the  acre. 
A  Spanish -American  writersums 
up  the  argimentB  in  favor  of 
rubt>er  cultivation  as  follows: 
Tbe  WA^fgWiLD  Rdbbbm  Tiibk.1  There  is  a  shortage  in  the  sup- 

ply, which  will  continue,  ^hile 
the  demand  for  rublier  is  increasing  at  an  accelerating  rate.  New 
uses  for  rubber  are  discovered  almost  daily.    Prices  have  been  ad- 


IN    TROPIC   AMERICA.  511 

vaucing  for  the  past  ten  years.     The  trees  are  easily  cultivated,  and 
the  profits  are  as  large  and  ^wftain  as  from  any  known  business. 

Another  profitable  tree  in  Costa  Rica  is  the  cacao,  from  the  bean 
of  which  cocoa  is  made.  Owing  to  the  similarity  of  name,  some 
people  have  an  idea  that  cocoa  is  derived  in  some  way  from  the 
cocoanut  tree.  The  cacao  tree  has  the  size  and  general  appearance 
of  the  peach  tree,  with  a  thick  growth  of  poda  extending  directly  out 
from  its  body.  The  beans  are  ground  up,  refined  and  sweetened,  by 
a  simple  process.  The  cacao  tree  begins  to  produce  pods  at  the  age 
of  three  or  four  years,  and  at  five  years  of  age  is  in  full  bearing. 
So  great  is  the  demand  for  this  product  that  agents  are  always  ready 


Gatherinc  Cacao  Podb. 

to  buy  the  crop  on  the  trees.  Profits  are  reported  to  run  from  $150 
to  $300  per  acre,  after  the  trees  are  in  full  bearing.  Rubber  and 
cacao  trees  thrive  best  at  an  elevation  of  100  to  700  feet,  but  will 
grow  as  high  up  as  1,500  feet  above  sea-level. 

It  is  not  surprising  that,  in  view  of  these  alluring  opportunities, 
many  Americans  should  be  casting  longing  eyes  at  the  Spanish- 
speaking  republics  of  Central  America,  through  which  Uncle  Sam 
expects  soon  to  construct  his  big  waterway.  It  is  not  improtiable 
that  the  next  decade  may  witness  a  peaceful  conquest  of  that  section 
by  the  irrepressible  Yankee. 


\ 


Raymond  Villa  Tract. 

A  PmHwmcT  Place  rvm  HoMts. 
igJjMHBKE  are  probably  no  other  cities  anywhere  to  which  so  lar^ 
^*'j  a  part  of  their  citizens  have  come  mainly  because  they  pre- 
*  ferred  to  live  there,  as  l<os  Angetes  and  Pasadena. 
Their  peculiar  drawing-  power  has  been  the  rare  combination  of  an 
almost  perfect  climate  with  the  educational,  social  and  commercial 
advantag-es  of  a  progressive  modern  city. 

Now  people  for  whom  a  delightful  home  has  been  the  prime  factor 
in  deciding  where  they  shall  pitch  their  tents  are  apt  to  pick  prettj 
carefully  the  exact  spot  to  drive  the  pegs.  Considering  the  great 
tide  of  home-builders  that  has  been  steadily  pouring  into  Los  An- 
geles all  these  years  one  might  fairly  suppose  that  the  choicest  loca- 
tions would  all  have  been  occupied  before  this  time,  and  that  later 
comers  must  make  shift  with  something  distinctly  less  than  the  best. 
Natural  as  this  conclusion  seems,  it  would  be  a  mistake.  There  are 
still  to  be  had,  within  easy  distance  of  the  center  of  E<ob  Angeles, 
many  home  sites  as  beautiful,  attractive,  convenient,  and  wholly 
desirable  as  heart  could  wish. 

No  better  evidence  is  needed  to  make  good  this  assertion  than  the 
facts  concerning  the  Raymond  Villa  Tract.  Here,  in  a  single  body, 
as  close  to  the  heart  of  Los  Angeles  (measuring  by  the  time  it  takes 
to  get  there)  as  some  of  the  most  beautiful  and  favored  residence  por- 
tions of  that  city,  right  on  the  edge  of  charming  Pasadena — "The 
Crown  of  the  Valley  "^surrounded  by  inspiring  scenery,  lies  a. 
broad  expanse,  offering  ample  room  for  some  hundreds  of  homes. 
Today  it  lies  open  and  ready  for  settlement,  and  yet  surrounded 
by  beautiful  modern  houses,  magnificent  hotels,  orange  groves  and 


WhbKE  IiOVBLV    BOHES  WlU.  RiSB. 


514  LAND    OF   SUNSHINE. 

flower  g'ardcas,  with  shade  treea,  beautiful  streets  and  avenues  al- 
ready traversed  daily  by  tourists  and  pleasure  seekers  by  the  huu' 
dreds,  as  the  most  enchanting:  and  agreeable  spot  for  driviag-  and 
picknickiag^  par- 
ties. It  takes  no 
gift  of  prophetic 
vision  to  see  it  in 
the  near  future  a 
great  park  of 
flowers  and  lawns 
and  shrubbery  — 
the  fit  setting:  for 
the  dwelling- 
places  that  are 
sure  to  rise  upon 

Does  this  seem 
over-enthusiastic? 
Consider,  tben,  a 
closely  pruned 
statement  of  the 
bare  facts  con- 
cemiDK  it. 

The  Raymond 
Villa  Tract  con- 
sists of  some  two  hundred  acres  of  gently  sloping  land  in 
the  eastern  part  of  the  valley  of  South  Pasadena.  It  was 
originally  part  of  the  San  Pasqual  Rancho,  but  has  been 
owned  for  many  years  by  the  Raymond  Improvement  Co.,  which 
has,  up  to  this  time,  preferred  not  to  press  the  sale  of  building  sites 
upon  it.  Now,  however,  the  construction,  right  through  the  property, 
of  the  new  "short  line"  of  the  Los  Angeles  and  Pasadena  electric  road, 
the  erection  of  the  magnificent  Hotel  Raymond  immediately  adjoin- 
ing it,  and  the  pressure  of  eager  home-seekers,  have  made  the  time 
seem  ripe  for  devoting  the  tract  to  the  needs  for  which  it  is  so  plainly 
destined  and  dividing  into  plots  suitable  for  building  purposes. 

To  the  hotels,  "  shopping,"  and  business  districts  of  Los  Angeles, 
the  running  time  of  the  electric  cars  will  be  twenty-five  minutes. 
The  business  centers  of  Pasadena  will  be  fess  than  ten  minutes  away 
by  the  same  route.  No  part  of  the  tract  is  at  a  greater  distance  from 
the  electric  line  than  can  be  covered  in  five  minutes'  brisk  walk. 
The  officials  of  the  road  expect  to  start  regular  service  over  it,  at 
few-minute  intervals,  early  in  January.  The  service  on  the  older 
routes  of  this  line,  in  respect  of  comfort  of  cars,  courtesy  of  em- 
ployes and  genuine  effort  to  accommodate  its  patrons  has  been  for 
years  up  to  a  high  standard — a  guarantee  of  what  the  service  on  this 
new  express  line  will  be. 

The  average  elevation  of  the  tract  above  sea-level  is  some  62S  feet, 
or  nearly  double  that  of  the  more  cloaeIy-built-«p  parts  of  Loa 
Angeles.  The  air,  of  course,  is  wholly  free  from  the  smoke  and  other 
impurities  inseparable  from  large  cities.  Partly  on  account  of  the 
ranges  of  hills  between  it  and  the  ocean,  and  partly  on  account  of  dis- 


RAYMOND    VILLA    TRACT.  515 

tance  and  elevation,  fog  is  comparatively  rare  on  this  tract,  yet  it 
gets  its  full  share  of  the  stimulating  and  refreshing  breezes  that 
liven  up  the  summer  days.     Frost  hardly  ever  nips  the  most  delicate 


little   home  plot,  one   may  Sthhets  *nn  avenues 

gather,      if      he      chooses,  ""  R*vmusi>  villa  Tract. 

green  peas  in  January,  and  strawberries  almost  any  month  in  the 
year.  As  for  roses,  one  need  only  meiilion  the  fact  that  the  Pasa- 
dena "Tournament  of  Roses"  is  held  aach  year  on  New  Year's 
Day.  One  of  the  famous  rose-bushes  even  of  Pasadena,  counting 
its  blooms  in  the  season  literally  by  hundreds  of  thousands,  is  the 
"Gold  of  Ophir"  on  the  Merwin  place,  juat  across  the  boundary 
line  of  the  Raymond  Villa  tract. 


RaVHONIi  VltLA  Tkact  Ho»i 


RAYMOND    VILLA    TRACT  517 

The  scenic  viens  from  any  part  of  the  property  are  superb.  To 
the  North,  and  only  a  few  miles  away,  looms  the  ^reat  front-wall  of 
the  Sierra  Madre  range,  stretcbinK  away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
and  often  gleaming-  with  snow  In  winter  far  down  its  shoulders.  In 
the  eastern  distance  the  lofty  peaks  of  San  Antonio.  San  Bernardino. 


San  Jacinto  and  San  Gorg^onio  tower  above  the  orange  groves  closer 
by.  At  the  South,  a  picturesquely  broken  line  of  hills  adds  variety, 
while  westward,  beyond  the  quiet  village  and  the  abrupt  descent 
into  the  Arroyo  Seco,  rise  yet  other  hills.  Truly  a  series  of  pictures 
on  which  the  eye  may  linger  long,  and  to  which  it  may  return  day 
after  day  without  tiring.  Yet  if  one  wishes  an  even  greater  variety 
of  scene  or  a.  total  change  of  atmosphere,  both  may  be  had  in  very 
short  time  and  at  trifling  cost.  Little  more  than  an  hour's  ride  on 
the  "  trolley"  will  convey  him  to  the  seashore  at  Santa  Monica,  while 
in  about  the  same  time  a  similar  conveyance  will  land  him  at  the 
Alpine  Tavern,  near  the  summit  of  Mount  Lowe. 
An  excellent  and  sufficient  water-supply,  good  natural  drainage. 


V  RAVHOKD  VIU.A  Tut 


518  LAND   OF   SUNSHINE. 

unsurpaaaed  gfenera.)  aaiiita.rj  conditioas,  broad  and  well-shaded 
streets,  and  connections  for  electric  lighting  and  telephone  service 
— all  these  go  to  round  out  the  requirements  of  a  flawless  residence 
section.  Furthermore,  clauses  in  each  deed  will  prevent  intoxicatinfr 
liquors  from  ever  being  made  or  sold  on  the  tract,  will  bar  the  en- 
trance of  factories,  shops,  livery -a  tables  or  anything  else  which 
might  mar  the  character  of  the  neighborhood,  will  establish  build- 
ing-lines, and  will  set  a  limit  t>elow  which  the  cost  of  a  house  ^Ul 
not  be  allowed  to  fall.  That  is  tosay,  the  whole  tract  will  be  strictly- 
devoted  to  homes,  and  every  precaution  will  be  taken  to  make 
all  the  surroundings  congenial  and  agreeable. 

One  of  the  most  important  points  concerning  this  property  —  the 
pocket-nerve  being  admittedly  among  the  most  sensitive  anatomical 
features  oE  mankind — can  barely  be  mentioned  here.  This  is  not 
the  place  for  figures  as  to  the  cost  of  building  sites ;  but  it  may  be 
stated  generally  that  prices  for  the  present  are  act  at  a  very  low- 
mark.  The  coat  of  a  single  lot  in  some  parts  of  Loa  Angeles  no 
closer  to  the  city's  center  by  the  time  measure,  and  certainly  no  whit 
superior  in  respect  of  natural  advantages,  will  buy  an  acre  here  ;  or 
the  cost  of  the  lot  alone  there  will  pay  for  the  lot  and  build  the  house 
here.  Besides  this,  further  special  concessions  will  be  made  for  a 
time  to  those  who  build  at  once.  It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  prices 
will  remain  long  at  this  low  level,  and  whether  for  investment  or 
for  immediate  occupancy,  just  now  is  a  good  time  to  look  into  the 

The  sale  and  managementlof  the  Raymond  Villa  Tract  is  in  the 
handsof  The  S.  W.  Pergusson  Co.,  from  whose  office  at  No.  224W. 
Fourth  street,  Lios  Angeles,  any  desired  information  can  be  obtained 
on  request,  either  in  person  or  by  letter. 


Ra>^inond  Villa   Tract. 

Is  believed  by  its  owners  to  be  the  best  property  now  offered  to  homeseekers  in 
Southern  California.     Following  is  a  brief  summary  of  the  facts  about  it : 

Location » 

Raymond  Vii^i^a  Tract  is  in  South  Pasadena,  adjoining-  the  grounds  of  the 
Raymond  Hotel  on  the  south. 

Surface  Character, 

Raymond  Vii,i,a  Tract  is  from  600  feet  to  700  feet  above  sea-level.  There  is 
sufficient  gentle  slope  to  assure  perfect  drainage  ;  but  the  surface  is  so  nearly 
level  that  no  costly  grading  will  be  required  in  preparing  home  sites.  Some  of 
the  streets  and  avenues  are  already  shaded  by  large  pepper-trees  ;  on  others  no 
shade  trees  have  been  planted,  leaving  the  future  owner  to  make  his  own  choice. 

Surroundings. 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  has  for  neighbors  :  On  the  north,  the  Raymond  Hotel, 
with  its  beautiful  grounds  and  golf  links  ;  on  the  east  and  south,  elegant  homes, 
set  among  orange  groves,  palms,  roses,  and  a  bewildering  wealth  of  shrubs  and 
vines ;  on  the  west,  the  pleasant  village  of  South  Pasadena. 

Ctimate, 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  has  no  harsh  winds,  practically  no  frost,  rarely  any 
fog,  and  a  dry  and  balmy  atmosphere  nearly  every  day  in  the  year.  In  Southern 
California  **  Climate  is  King" — ^and  this  very  spot  is  the  heart  of  its  kingdom. 

Transportation, 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  will  have,  within  60  days,  the  best  electric  line  in  the 
United  States  in  full  operation,  connecting  it  with  L/OS  Angeles  and  Pasadena. 
No  part  of  the  tract  is  more  than  five  minutes  walk  from  the  line.  Time  to 
Fourth  street,  Los  Angeles,  will  be  less  than  25  minutes,  thus  bringing  this 
property  closer  to  the  business  part  of  the  city  than  the  corner  of  West  Adams 
and  Twenty-fifth  streets. 

Watery  Sewage,  Electric  Lights,  Telephone, 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  is  under  the  operation  of  a  mutual  water  company  ; 
every  purchaser  of  property  will  become  part  owner  in  the  cheapest,  best  and 
finest  and  purest  water  supply  in  Southern  California.  The  same  methods  of 
disposing  of  sewage  are  employed  as  'in  the  West  Adams  tract,  and  give  full 
satisfaction.  Electric  lights  and  telephones  are  already  on  the  property. 
Franchise  for  gas  has  just  been  granted. 

Improvements . 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  now  has  in  progress  grading  streets,  laying  sidewalks, 
pruning  trees,  building  offices  and  houses,  and  otherwise  laying  the  foundation 
for  beautiful  and  substantial  improvements. 

Subdivision, 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  is  being  subdivided  into  lots  of  50  to  65  feet  frontage 
and  140  to  185  feet  deep.    Villa  sites  of  an  acre  or  more  may  also  be  had. 

Restrictions^ 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  deeds  will  all  contain  clauses  restricting  character  and 
cost  of  residences  ;  preserving  a  uniform  frontage  line ;  confining  business  to 
certain  blocks  ;  prohibiting  entirely  the  sale  of  liquor  and  other  objectionable 
industries. 

Prices  and  Terms, 

Raymond  Villa  Tract  will  be  sold  at  prices  far  below  that  of  any  other 
property  approaching  it  in  advantages.  Special  terms  to  those  who  will  build 
at  once. 

Who  to  See  About  It, 
Raymond  Villa  Tract  is  in  the  hands  of 

THE  S.   W.   FERGUSSON  CO., 

Z2A  West  Fourth  street,  Los  Angeles. 


MISCELLANEOUS 


Uf ILL  iBvatip  or  rtiau 
"  Hf  Mrt  tf  the  taiy 

t  IWtM  dKplnioD  B_iiUIa> 

Bswvtr  tf  WrWdM 

DrjohnWIIiMGIbbs' 

THB  ONLY 


ZANE  NOItNX  A  CO., 
P.  O.  Box  Mas.  Phlladslphlii.  Fw. 

Rtvolvtog  Ttinpli-Ctcsp  EyiglasMt. 

Briuga  imtent  with  Electric 
ittAcnmeiit.   For  - 
lomlort  nnd  cure, 

.if  the  past  100  yeara  equals  it. 
Fit  by  mail  (riiarant«*d.     Gond 
ealcBmcn  mnke  great 
Excliiaive  territory  ( 


Ci^    321 


■r.ILT 


lino  iHuimiiiL  w  iwEU.; 


ANTVO  CO.,  4n  N    Hal 


St.,   LmAdiheIh. 


TThte     Land    of    Sunshine 

PUBUSHKD  MONTHI«Y  BY 

^Ke  Land  of  SuiiAfilxie  PubliAlilzis  Co. 

(  Df  COXPOXATBD  ) 

Rooms  5,  7,  9 ;    121>i  South  Broadway,  Los  Angeles,  Cal.,  U.  8.  A. 


HEADS  OF  DBPARTMSNTS  SUBSCRIPTION  RATES 

£_•••  S^V®       '  ^"'  5&!?5!i       •*  *  y^r  *«  ^^  united  states,  Canada  and 

Ckab.  F.  LuMifxs  -    Editorial  Mexico. 

OiiAB.  ^^ooDT     "     -    '     -    "   SubscriptSS       ^-^^a  year  to  other  conatries  in  the  Foetal 

Union. 

Entered  at  the  Los  Ansvles  FostoflBce  as  second-class  matter. 


A 


A    Years    Output. 

S  compiled  by  the  Los  Angeles  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the  lead- 
ing products  of  Southern  California  for  1900  are  estimated 
as  follows: 


Citrus  Fruits $8,000,000 

Gold  and  Silver 6,400,000 

Petroleum,  estimated....  4,400,000 

Borax 1,150,000 

Hay 1,000,000 

Vegetables    and   Fruit 

consumed 1,500,000 

Dried  Fruit  and  Raisins      475,000 

Grain 150,000 

Canned  Goods 825,000 

Sugar 1,000,000 

Fertilizers 1,000,000 

Copper 700,000 

Nuts 800,000 

Cement,  Clay  and  Brick      651,000 

Wine 850,000 

Beer 600,000 


Butter,  estimated $    500,000 

Beans,  estimated 1,000,000 

Asphaltum 425,000 

Eggs,  estimated 325,000 

Celery,  estimated 300,000 

Poultry 250,000 

Hides 200,000 

Fresh  Fish 240,000 

Canned  Fish 115,000 

Wool 150,000 

Vegetables,  exported....      325,000 

Cheese,  estimated 120,000 

Olives,  estimated 100,000 

Salt,    Mineral    Water 

and  Lead 180,000 

Lime 95,000 

$33,826,000 


The  Los  Angeles  Chamber  of  Commerce. 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce,  althoug'h  its  work  is  for  the  public,  is  a  private 
corporation,  possessing*  a  membership  of  business  and  professional  men  of  I^os 
Angeles  and  Southern  California,  about  one  thousand  in  number.  These  con- 
tribute one  dollar  per  month  toward  the  expense  of  maintaining  the  institution. 
One  of  the  main  features  of  the  organization  is  to  supply  information  and  answer 
correspondence  relative  to  the  resources  and  productive  features  of  the  southern 
portion  of  the  State.  It  also  maintains  a  free  exhibit  of  natural  and  manufac- 
tured products. 

a  The  following  pamphlets,  issued  by  the  Chamber,  can  be  had  on  application  at 
the  office,  or  will  be  sent  to  any  address  upon  receipt  of  five  cents  for  postag'e  : 
"  Climate  and  Health ;  "  **  Petroleum  ;  "  Citrus  Fruits ; "  "  Nuts  of  Lros  Angeles 
County  '*;  "Guide  to  Los  Angeles  "  ;  "City  of  Pasadena  "  ;  "Riverside  County"  ; 
"Orange  County";  "San  Diego  County";  Santa  Barbara  County";  "Ven- 
tura County";  "Fresno  County."  Copies  of  the  Annual  Special  Editions  of 
the  lyos  Angeles  Times,  Herald  and  Express.  "  Rain  Charts  and  Temperature 
Charts." 


Gold  Mining  with  the  Gamble  Left  Out. 


tt 


Statistics  show  that  of  all  industrial  occupations  mining'  is  the  most 
profitable.  The  annual  averae^e  product  or  earning-  in  California,  of  those 
engaged  in  mining.... is  nearly  $1,500.*' — Slafe  Mineralogists  Report  f on Sgt. 

Everyone  knows  that  investments  in  gold  mining,  when  fortunately  made,  are 
unequaled  in  profit-making  possibilities ;  few  realize  that  when  prudently  made, 
they  may  be  among  the  most  secure  and  least  liable  to  loss.  Yet  this  is  the  plain 
truth,  and  may  be  well  illustrated  by  a  brief  statement  of  the  facts  concerning 
the  Ekiuitable  Mining  and  Milling  Company,  of  Stockton,  and  the  method  by 
which  it  absolutely  insures  investors  in  its  stock  against  loss  of  any  part  of  the 
money  invested. 

In  the  first  place,  the  Company  has  been  organized  along  the  soundest  busine5% 
lines,  under  the  wise  protective  laws  of  California.  Its  officers  and  directors  are 
conservative,  experienced  and  trustworthy  mining  and  business  men,  and  each  of 
them  owns  a  substantial  block  of  the  stock.  Their  holdings  (aggregating*  a  con- 
trol of  the  entire  capital  stock — ^$300,000  at  par  value)  are  pooled  under  an  iron- 
clad trust  agreement,  until  September,  1907,  shutting  out  any  chance  that  the 
management  will  pass  to  less  tried  and  able  hands,  or  be  used  for  purposes  of 
stock  manipulation. 

The  Arbona  mine,  operated  by  the  Company,  is  near  Tuttletown,  Tuolumne 
county,  and  is  upon  the  mighty  **  Mother  I^ode,''  the  immense  and  unfailing 
gold-output  of  which  is  known  to  all  the  world.  The  records  of  mint,  expre^^s 
companies  and  banks,  up  to  a  recent  date,  credit  this  single  county  with  the  pro- 
duction of  more  than  $215,000,000  in  gold,  and  this  figure  is  certainly  under 
rather  than  over  the  actual  product.  Immediately  adjoining  the  Arbona  to  the 
northwest,  the  *'  Paterson "  has  been  worked  to  a  depth  of  800  feet,  and  has 
yielded  well  toward  a  million  dollars  in  gold.  One  and  three-quarter  miles  to 
the  southeast  lies  the  famous  *'Kawhide."  which  has  made  more  than  one 
millionaire. 

The  development  of  the  Arbona  mine  during  the  five  years  since  the  present 
Company  took  possession  has  been  mainly  directed  to  gaining  depth  and  putting 
the  property  in  condition  for  large  and  continuous  production.  The  double-com- 
partment shaft  is  now  621  feet  deep,  and  several  levels  have  been  started,  some 
of  which  are  already  in  ore,  and  actual  mill-runs  prove  the  ore  to  be  "  pay," 
values  increasing  as  depth  is  gained.  Hoisting  machinery  is  ample  for  double 
the  present  depth.  A  ten-stamp  rapid-drop  mill  and  concentrating  plant  is  fully 
equipped,  with  capacity  for  treating  forty  tons  of  ore  daily. 

The  management  at  the  mine  is  in  the  hands  of  men  of  long  experience  and 
proved  ability,  all  of  whom  are  interested  in  the  ownership  of  the  mine.  Much 
of  the  stock,  by  the  way,  is  held  by  mining  men  of  the  district  in  which  it  is  lo- 
cated, who  have  been  familiar  for  years  with  the  property  and  its  manage- 
ment. 

The  purpose  for  which  the  Company  now  desires  to  raise  funds  is  to  put  in 
power-drills,  in  order  to  explore  the  various  levels  and  open  up  stoptng-g-round  as 
rapidly  as  possible  to  furnish  a  continuous  supply  of  ore  to  the  mill.  According 
to  present  indications  four  hundred  feet  of  drifting  will  accomplish  this. 

The  closest  investigation  will  satisfy  any  man  that  the  funds  of  the  Company 
have  been  consistently  and  judiciously  applied  to  the  development  of  the  mine ; 
that  its  affairs  have  been  and  will  be  faithfully  administered  for  the  best  inter- 
ests of  all  the  stockholders,  and  that  its  managers  are  in  the  mining  business  to 
get  gold  out  of  the  ground — not  to  make  money  from  sales  of  stock  or  speculative 
•*  stock- jobbing." 

The  facts  already  stated  are  sufficient  to  place  the  shares  of  the  Equitable 
Mining  and  Milling  Company  in  the  conservative  class  of  mining  investments. 
But  it  has  recently  made  such  arrangements  with  the  Pacific  Coast  Underwriting 


The  AkBONA  Gold  Mine.  Tcoluunb  Codntv.  Cal. 

Company,  of  San  Francisco,  as  secure  the  investor  beyond  peradventure  ag-ainst 
loss  of  any  part  of  his  principal.  Space  is  lacking-  to  give  full  details,  but  the 
practical  working- of  the  plan  maybe  thus  illustrated:  The  investor  of  S1,000 
(for  example)  would  receive  for  his  money,  Rrst,  an  Investment  Certificate  of  the 
Continental  Building  and  Loan  Company,  of  San  Francisco  (one  of  the  soundest 
and  strongest  institutions  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States),  guaranteeing  abso- 
lutely the  payment  of  $1,000  at  the  end  of  ten  years ;  and,  second  a  Stock  Coupon 
which  may  be  exchanged  at  any  time  for  400  shares  of  stock  of  the  Equitable 
Mining  and  Milling  Company.  The  present  selling  price  of  this  stock  being  SI. SO 
per  share,  this  is  equivalent  to  a  payment  of  interest  in  advance  for  ten  years  at 
the  rate  of  six  per  cent  per  annum.  This  takes  no  account  of  any  dividends  on 
the  stock  during  the  ten  years,  nor  of  the  probable  great  advance  in  its  cash  sell- 
ing price.  Yet  the  management,  owningi  the  control  of  the  stock,  depend  en- 
tirely for  their  profits  precisely  upon  such  dividends  and  increased  value  of 
stock.     (The  directors,  by  the  way,  are  not  on  salary.) 

Now,  right  here,  is  the  meat  of  the  matter.  The  worst  that  can  happen  to  any 
investor  under  this  plan — even  if  the  Mining  Company  should  tail  utterly — would 
be  to  lose  the  interest  on  his  money  for  a  term  of  years.  The  principal  is  secure 
in  any  event.  And  if  the  Mining  Company  is  successful,  as  now  seems 
assured,  the  returns  will  far  exceed  any  that  could  be  obtained  by  any  other  form 
of  investment  involving  so  little  risk. 

Investments  on  this  plan  may  be  made  in  sums  of  $100  and  upwards. 

In  conclusion,  it  U  worth  while  to  quote  from  a  recent  publication  of  the  Com- 
pany ;  "  We  promise  you  only  what  we  know  we  can  fulfill,  viz  :  to  earnestly 
work  for  success ;  to  guard  your  every  interest  ;  to  give  jou  your  full  share  of 
the  protits  ;  to  protect  you  absolutely  against  loss  of  principal  invested  in  the 
Guaranteed  Investment  Certificates." 

It  has  been  entirely  impossible  in  these  pages  to  give  the  reasons  which  justify 
the  managers  of  this  enterprise  in  their  confident  expectation  of  large  returns. 
Any  person  desiring  further  information,  including  maps  and  photographs  of  the 
property,  can  obtain  it  by  addressing  the  Equitable  Mining  and  Milling  Com- 
pany, Stockton,  California. 


MISCELLANEOUS 


THE 


Pianola 


The  most  wonderful  and  most 
satisfactory  Piano-player  that  is 
made.  Expression  and  touch  are 
controlled  by  the  operator— and 
anyone  can  operate  it.  Plays  any 
piano.  Attached  or  detached  in 
an  instant.  You  get  the  full 
value  of  your  piano  when  you 
have  a  Pianola.  Come  in  and 
see  the  wonderful  instrument. 

THE 


Aeolian 


Practically  a  whole  orchestra  in 
itself  for  the  home,  and  playable 
by  anyone,  irrespective  of  musical 
training.  Gives  the  full  orches- 
tral effects,  such  as  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  obtain  from  any  other 
single  instrument.  Directly  un- 
der the  control  of  the  player, 
whether  he  has  or  has  not  any 
musical  knowledge  whatever. 
Write  us  about  or  come  in  and 
see  it. 

Southern  California  Music  Co. 

2J6-2J8  Ve«t  Third  Streett 
Los  Angelest  California* 


Send  Us  $3.50 

For  the  finest  pair  of  tan  shoes 
you  ever  bought  for  that  price. 

FOR  WOMEN : 

Lacing,  Golf  and  Oxford  styles. 

FOR  MEN: 

Lacing  and  Oxford  styles. 
They'll  wear  well,  fit  well    and 
give  you  style  and  comfort .    Send 
us  an  order  today. 


C.  M.  Staub  Shoe  Co. 

25S  S.  Broadway 


What  is... 

"The  Photo- 
Miniature?" 

A  monthly  magazine  of 
photographic  information ; 
not  lilce  any  other  photo- 
grraphic  Journal,  but  differ- 
ent.    Every  numlier  is 
complete  in  itself— tells  all 
worth  the  knowing  about 
one  subject  at  one  time, 
with  dainty  illustrations. 
No.  28,  now  ready,  tells  all 
about  ••  Seashore  Photos^, 
raphy."     Ask  your  dealer 
to  get  you  a  copy.     Price 
25  cents. 

Obtainable  from  all  dealers 
in  photo  supplies.  Ask  for 
list  of  the   complete   series. 

NO  FREE  SAMPLES. 

TENNANT  A  WARD,  Pnblisliert.  NEW  YORK 


mm  lettiRicm  coio  cutiii  s;ra.^r''A^i"v'S^o.Vi«T/M;'!?''ii.'=tii-ii^s: 


MISCELLANEOUS 


^ 


for  Your  Pet  Negative  | 

There  is   a  Perfection  and  Quality  about  the   Famous 

BRADLEY    PLATINUM    PAPER 

7         which  justly  makes  it  "  Without  a  Rival."     It  bears  the        sjc 
^         maker's  guarantee,  and  is  sold  only  by  first<lass  dealers        ^ 


in  photo  supplies,  which  is  a  double  guarantee.   >  >  .j*        ^ 

Maaufacturcd  only  by 

JOHN    BRADLEY,    Chemist,    PHILADELPHIA 


CREATES  A  PERFECT  GOHPLEXIDN 
Mrs.  Qraham's 

!  Cucumber  and  Elder 


I 


J  Flower  Cream 

i  

ilt  cleanses,  whitens  and  beautifies  the  *k 
feeds  and  nourishes  skin  tissues,  tlius  bajii~~ 
ing  wrinkles.     It  is  harmless  as  dew,  azic  j. 
nourishing'  to  the  skin  as  dew  is  to  the  flonc 
§  Price  fl.OO  at  drug-g-ists  and  agenta,  or  ^-' 

anywhere  prepaid.     Sample  bottle,  10  ce--, 
^  A  handsome  book.  "  How  to  be   Beautifu;, 

t  '•"■ 

I    MRS.     GRAHAM'S    CACTICO     HAIR     GROWER 
I  QUICK    H  A m^  RESTORER 

fBolb  snanntecd  taarmlesa  ag  valer.    Sold  b^  beat  I>ni|(Iats,  o,  xent  In  pUid  xealed  wrap^Er   i 
xxoTcsfi.  nrenaid.    Fiios.  ■!  .OO  ttach.    For  sale  by  all  DrsKslsla  and  Hairdealcrs. 

''A  CDnfidential  Chal  with  Bald  Headed.  Thin  Haired  a.ad  Crar  Bi.:i: 
ems  wanted. 

BEDINOTON  A  CO.,  Bita  rrknoliDo,  Oea.  PaelBc  Cokit  Asenta. 
*  MRS.  OERVAISE  ORAHAM,   IS61   HlolllBlul  A.V*.,   Ohlur 

1     MBS.  WKAVBK- JACKSON,  Bitlr  Store!  »ad  Toilet  fulora,   91S  8.  SprlnK  St..   Loi  Ji- 
C  Selei.    9*  Fall  Okki  Are.,  eor.  GreeD  Bt.,  PundeOB- 


/ 


3  2044  041   831   447 


This  book  is  not  to  be 
taken  from  the  Library 


3  2044  041   831   447 


• 


This  book  is  not  to  be 
taken  from  the  Library 


3  2044  041   831   447 


r 


This  book  is  not  to  be 
taken  from  the  Library 


V