i7n^ LAS'f Journals
J AM £ S HAN N I NGTON
mMICaJ
{^DrftiD BY E, C. DAWSON. M, A,
PRINCETON, N. J.
SAe/f
BV 3625
.U4
H36 1888
1
Hannington,
James,
1847-
1885.
The last
journals
of
Bishop
__H^nn_inrt^
hnn
i*^:Mf
LAST JOURNALS
OF
BISHOP HANNINGTON
GIANT HOUSE OF BASHAN.
THE LAST JOURNALS
I OF
BISHOP 'hANNINGTON
being Narratives of
A Journey through Palestine in 1884
and
A Journey through Masai-Land and U-Soga in 1885
EDITED BY
E. C. DAWSON, M.A. Oxon.
Incumbent of S. Thomas's Church, Edinburgh
Author of " The Life and Work of James Hannington, First Bishop of
Eastern Equatorial Africa."
WitA Illustrations Jroin the Bishop's Sketches
LONDON
SEELEY & CO., 46, 47, 6- 48, ESSEX STREET, STRAND
1888
CONTENTS.
Chapter I. AT HOME — June 12th — November
Sth, 1884.
Home again — Kew and British Museum — In-
terview with Medical Board — Rest ordered
— Holiday in Devon and Cormvall — Medi-
cal Board — ''''Never to go again to Africa ''
— Deputation Work — An African Travell-
ing Hut — Medical Board — "Go Anywhere
but Africa " — Elected Fellow of Linnean
Society — First Mention of the Bishopric —
Consults with the Bishop of Chichester —
Satisfactory Testimonial from Sir J . Fayrer
— Elected Bishop of E. Equatorial Africa
— Article in the ^''Graphic"' — Anmial Meet-
ing of C.M.S. in Exeter Hall — Letter from
the Archbishop of Canterbury — Consecrated
as Bishop — Conference at Southampton —
]\lr. Spurgeon — Canon Wilhci force — Mar-
tinhoe — Norwich Cathedral — Yarmouth —
The Rev. E. A. Fitch ^'' A Troublesome
Bishop'"' — Bath — Sir Fozuell Buxton — Mr.
Joseph Thomson — " / love my Chaplain "
— D.D. at Oxford — Farewells — Valedic-
tory Meeting at Salisbtiry Square
vi CONTENTS— coniiimed.
Chapter IL THE PALESTINE JOURNAL—
November 5th, 1 8(84 — January 5th, 1885.
Off at last— The ^' NepaiiV'—In the Bay of
Biscay — School of Whales — " Tommy
Atkins''^ — First View of ^'^ Dear Africa''^
— Gibraltar — Alalia — A Missionary
Meeting on Board — The Suez Canal —
Ismailia — Tel-el- Kcbir — An Agreeable
Jew — The Captain and the Biilbnl . . 23
Chapter IIL THE PALESTINE JOURNAL—
November 2 3rd — December 1 3th, 1 8 84.
Qnar antine at Beyrotit — Examining Schools
— Addresses and Receptions — American
Missionaries — An Undenominational Day
— On the Diligence — Mr. Connor — Damas-
ciis — Prison and Leper Hospital — Turkish
Interference with Protestant Missions —
Start for the Hanran — Feast in the Desert
— Druse Villages and Sheikhs — Giant
Houses — Tents of Kedar — An Arab Ban-
quet — Titrkish Misrule — An Excitable Host
— Karrawat — A Flourishing C.M.S. School
— A Provoking Coin — " The Ancient Alex-
ander'''' — An Improving School — Alexander
comes off well — A Land tinder a Cnrse . 46
Chapter IV. THE PALESTINE JOURNAL—
December 13th — 20th, 1884.
Circassian Refugees — Arab Alarms — Wrath
— Gadara — Atnong the Tombs — My Horse
CONTENTS— co«/;«;/^./. vii
lies down in the River Jarmuk — Crossing
the Jordan — Kept Aivakc by a Convent
Bell— On the Sea of Galilee— Tabor-
Nazareth — Dr. Vartans Hospital — A
Jesnit Priest who loants to chajige His
Religion — C. M. S. Church — Confirmation
— A German Feast — A Blind Infant — A
Frenchman Travelling as a Frenchman
should — Jenin — School at Nablons — Sama-
ritan Sabbath and Rites — A Talk about
Africa . . . . . . .8^
Chapter V. THE PALESTINE JOURNAL—
December 20th — 25th, 1884.
Gun-shots in the Night — Fbal and Gerizim —
The Domes of the Holy City — In the
Preparandi School — Snnday in J ernsalem
— " Where will you go ? "— " To the Ash-
heaps " — The Mount of Olives — A Lost
Sheep — Jericho — A Bathe in the Dead Sea
— Monastery of Mar Saba — Sanitary Dates
— The Hill where David sang his Songs —
The Roman Patriarch — Miss Jacombs^
School — Hamsir ! (Pig!) — The Father-
land in Palestine. . . . . .105
Chapter VI. THE PALESTINE JOURNAL—
December 25th, 1884 — January
5th, 1885.
Elijalis Body miisthave been Bigger than that
of Goliath I — Preparation for Confirmation
CONTENTS— con/inueif.
at Jerusalem — Ordination of two Deacons
— Confirmatio7i Service — The American
ConsuVs Museum — Inspection ojthe Mosque
of Omar — Good-bye to Wi/son — Dearth of
Mosses — " Hold on^ Chaplain / " — The
Orange-growers of Joppa — Miss Arnotfs
School — " What will poor Robin do then^
poor thing ? " — Port Said — Alexandria —
In Time for Church — An Unexpected
Meeting 120
Chapter VII. THE LAST JOURNAL— August
ist — October 29th, 1885 — Through
Masai-Land to Ngongo-a-Bagas.
Arrival at Frere Town — Start from Rabai —
Northward Ho ! — Ndi; Alarm of Fire —
Lost in the Jungle — River Sabaki—Haul
of Fish — The Nyika Horrida — Mutito Wa
Andei — Lunched off Weasels — Vexations —
Last Letter Home from Kikumbuliu —
River Kuombi — Boy decamps with Medicine
Chest — '■^ I suppose I ought to turn back^ but
no, not yet^^ — Ulu — Mobbed and Stopped —
Forcing a Way — A Wizard — The Um-
brella to the Front^Machako's Village —
Deep Valleys— Dense Population — People
Naked, bittCourteous — Lanjora — 5 ,500 Feet
above the Sea, and Bitterly Cold— On the
Plain of Kapte — A Charge of Rhinoceroses
— Abundant Game 14^
CO'NTENTS—con/tnueJ. ix
Chapter VIII. THELAST JOURNAL— August
26th — September 14th, 1886 —
Ngongo-a-Bagas to Lake Nakuko.
An Alarm of Masai — T/ie Wa-Kikiiyn —
Splendid Forests — A Starving Caravan —
Treacherous Marketers — The Camp in
Desperation — No Food — A Volley of
Poisoned Arrows — MenWoimded — Tn trad-
able Porters — Pule of the Rod — The Camp
on Fire — The Bishop'' s Life Threatened —
Enough Food at Last — An Ambuscade
Repulsed — Routed by Bees — Lions — Lake
Naivasha — 7,000 Feet^ Very Cold — The
Masai — A Dreadful Day — Almost Torn to
Pieces — Will the Sun never go down? —
Flight — Masai as Bedfellows — Lake
Elmeteita . . . . . . .160
Chapter IX. THE LAST JOURNAL —
September 15th — October nth, 1886
— Lake Nakuro to Kavirondo.
The Effect of Masai on the Nerves — A
Wounded Buffalo — The Fall of an Elephant
— Wild Boars — A Chain of Destruction —
A Ravine in Lykipia — A Tremendous
Climb — A Peaceful Sunday — Njemps^ Lake
Baringo^ and the Wa-Kwafi — Tigirish
River — Coee — Kamasia — A Porcupine for
Dinner — Kapute — The Escarpment of
Elegeyo — A Climb of ^^ooo Feet — Quite an
English Climate — Thunderstorms — Colobus
X CONTENTS— conltmeff.
Gtiereza Monkeys — Angata Nytiki —
Crossing the River Ktborinn — Shiftlessness
of Frere Town Porters — First View oj
Kavirondo — Swahili Slave-raids — A Fry
of White Ants and Sweet Potatoes — The
Niidest People in Africa — Kwa-Siindu —
Good Health — Sunstroke in the Foot —
Confined to Bed . . . . . 1 90
Chapter X. THE LAST JOURNAL— October
1 2th — 29th — Through U-Soga to
THE Nile.
Start with Fifty Picked Men — Passage of the
Rapid Nzoia — Perverse Guides — The
Lake! — Mock '■'■ Stiltans''^ — A Drnnken
People — War Drums — Suspense — Increas-
ing Troubles — "'' I Remember Romwaf'' —
First Encounter with Baganda — Pushing
a Way through — •''''A Chief called Lubwa''^
— A View of the Nile — Rufianly Assault —
Dragged to Prison — Fearfully Bruised
and Strained — Stared at — Sick and Shat-
tered — Offers of Escape — The Return of
the Messengers from Alwanga — The End
— Letter from Bishop Parker^ with Ukittus
Report 212
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
GIANT HOUSE OF BASHAN
A PEEP IN ISMAILIA.,
RAILWAY PLATFOKM, TEL-EI.-KEBIR ..
TEL-EL-KEBIR
DAMASCUS — VIEW FROM MV HOTEL WINDOW
RUINS AT KARRAWAT
TIBERIAS, FROM MV TENT DOOR
THE VIEW OF THE LEJA
KIBO, FROM KITIMBIRIU
LAKE JIPE . .
DONVO LONGONOT ..
LAKE NAKURO
WESTERN ESCARPMENT, KAMASIA
LAVA CAP OF ELEGEVO ESCARPMENT .,
SAMIA IN U-SOGA
VILLAGE IN SAMIA , .
MAP OF EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA..
Frontisbicce.
40
42
44
54
74
80
82
140
142
180
192
197
199
213
215
240
"We ring true still when an3'thing strikes home to us ; and though
the idea that everything should ' pay ' has infected our very
purpose, . . . there is a capacity of noble passion left in our
heart's core ; . . . and there is hope for a nation while this can
be said of it." — RusKIN.
THE LAST JOURNALS
OF
BISHOP HANNINGTON
INTRODUCTORY.
It has been remarked by more than one re-
viewer that the period between June, 1883,
and November, 1884, was very lightly touched
upon in the Life and Work of Bishop Han-
nington. But, as one kindly critic shrewdly
suggested, " the materials were not abundant."
When the Life was published, the Bishop's
diaries which relate to that period, and which
have since been sent home, one by one, from
the centre of Africa, had not been recovered.
Among these was a detailed description of
his visitation to the Churches in Palestine
2 Introductory.
and Syria. This Palestine journal is written in
a good-sized, leather-bound note-book, and was
evidently compiled either during his journey
northward through Masai-Land, or else during
his imprisonment in U-Soga. It breaks off
rather abruptly. It was not concluded. Ap-
parently it was scribbled in his travelling tent
when the day's march was done, or during such
long compulsory halts as that at Ngongo-a-
Bagas, while he was negotiating for supplies
with the shy and suspicious natives. This
seems clear, since the Bishop mentions* that,
while in Jerusalem, the American Consul
showed him an animal " the very counterpart
of which," he says, " I killed afterwards in
U-Kamba." Now U-Kamba is a district to the
north of Kikumbuliu, from whence he wrote
his last letter home. It was probably jotted
down mostly from memory, for many of the
names of villages and places are left blank,
and the exact dates are not always inserted.
It is, however, wonderfully complete, and
but few emendations have been necessary in
order to prepare it for the public eye.
'^Page 125.
Introductory. 3
That the Bishop should have found time or
incHnation for such an occupation amidst the
toils and worries of a caravan, and amidst the
excitements and hazards of a journey of that
sort through a country where everything inter-
ested him, and in which his eyes and ears were
open to everything that was new or notable,
is another evidence of his singular mental
activity, and of the manner in which he was
accustomed to fill in every moment of his day.
In addition to this journal of his visit to
Palestine, he kept two diaries of his march to
U-Ganda. In one of these he noted only such
facts as might be useful to those who should
come after him, whether travellers or mission-
aries — facts anthropological, geographical, zoo-
logical, climatic, and so forth ; with careful
memoranda of the amount of hongo required
for the passage of each tribe, and the price of
provisions in each district. In the other diary
he gives an account, in almost microscopic
writing, of the general events of each day's
pilgrimage. This latter diary was recovered
from King Mwanga, on the 19th of June, 1886.
It did not, however, reach home until October
4 Ijttrodiictory.
the 25th, when the Life was fully written, and
the printed sheets were actually in the binder's
hands. I was not, therefore, able to do more
than supplement Mr. Jones' account of the
journey by a few extracts from it ; and was
obliged to be content with publishing in full
only those last leaves into which were crowded
that most pathetic narrative of the long-strained
sufferings of the concluding days of his life.
With regard to the recovery of this diary,
Mr. Ashe wrote from U-Ganda, " This evening
Mackay obtained the most valuable thing
belonging to the Bishop which has yet come to
light — the diary of his march, full of thrilling
adventures and hairbreadth escapes, written up
to the very day of his murder." As this
African journal has been read by few outside
the immediate circle of those who are specially
interested in the missionary periodicals which
are issued by the Church Missionary Society,
it seems possible that there may be some who
will welcome a popular edition of it. It has,
therefore, been published in full, together with
the Palestine Journal, in order that all those
who were interested in the career of Bishop
Introductory. 5
Hannington, as narrated in the volume of his
Life, may hear the details of his last heroic
endeavour in the hero's own words.
I w^ill try to let the diaries which follow tell
their own tale, with as few interpolations of
my own as may be necessary to form the con-
necting links of the narrative. For myself —
" I but advance a moment, only to wheel and hurry
back in the darkness."
CHAPTER I.
AT HOME.
(JUNE i2th, 1883— NOVEMBER 5th, 1884.)
" Awake, arise ! speak forth what is in thee ; . . . Higher task
than that of Priesthood was allotted to no man : wert thou but the
meanest in that sacred Hierarchy, is it not enough therein to spend
and be spent ? " — Sartor Resartus.
" Incipiat mundum contemnere, pro nihilo habere qu:e homines
amant . . . omnes sui cognati commoventur. Quid insanis ? Ista
stultitia est, ista dementia est" . . . "Si autem perseveraverit, et eos
superaverit perdurando, . . convertunt se et dicere incipiunt,
Magnus homo, sanctus homo . . . Honorant, gratulantur, bene-
dicunt, laudant." — August. Sertn.
When James Hannington boarded the home-
bound steamer at Zanzibar, on May the 12th,
1883, he was in a very poor way. Quite a
broken-down wreck of a man. However, the
complete rest of the voyage and the lusty sea
breezes soon set him up again ; and when, after
an exceptionally fine and rapid passage of less
than a month, he again sighted the shores of
Old England, mother of pioneers, he felt — so he
tells us — almost as though he were "a fraud,"
Welcome. 7
and as though his proper place were Rubaga,
at the source of the Nile. On June nth, the
steamship brought up below Gravesend. The
familiar faces of "dearest Sam, best of brothers,"
and of his sister-in-law had greeted him at
Plymouth, and accompanied him to London.
There he hoped to meet his wife.
^'' June 1 2th. — Anxiety about Blanche.
Started 3 a.m., but fog compelled us to return
to Tilbury, where we landed. Met Blanche at
station. Went to C.M.S. ; welcome. Arrived
home 2.15. Welcome all quarters. Very
exhausted."
Old friends from all the country round came
to greet him at Hurst, and the faithful band
of " Hannington's saints " soon clustered
about him once more. At the Saturday-
evening prayer-meeting that week there was,
he says, "a happy reunion." On Sunday, too,
large congregations filled St. George's Chapel
to welcome their pastor.
Hannington, however, soon found that he
could do very little work. In spite of his
apparently rapid recovery, his constitution had
received a severe shock from the tremendous
8 At Home.
strain to which it had been subjected in
Africa. He was soon fatigued to prostration.
Notwithstanding, he took, at first, no regular
holiday, and not only did the work of his
parish, but found time for several visits to
London.
" Thursday^ yiine 2 \st. — Went to towm with
Sam. Visited Kew ; poor reception. Went
to British Museum ; warm reception. Slept
at CM. College. Gave address to the
students.
''^ Friday ^jf line 22nd. — Gave another address
at morning prayers. Brighton 1 1 a.m. Gave
address at the C.M.S. meeting in the
Pavilion.
" Saturday^ June 2y'd. — Rather tired with
the week."
On Monday^ J^^b ~^^^i Hannington pre-
sented himself for examination before the
Medical Board at Salisbury Square. Their
verdict was, that he must rest during the next
six months. This was wholesome advice, but
not very easy to follow in his then state of
mind. He was excited and eager, and intensely
anxious to be up and doing. He hurried back-
Holiday in Nortli Devon and Cornwall. 9
wards and forwards between London and
Hurst : now at Salisbury Square, " writing a
report upon portable houses," or something
else for Africa ; again at the British Museum,
making arrangements about his various collec-
tions ; then at some meeting at Brighton or
Hurst. At last it was seen that the only thing
for him was that he should be packed away
to some holiday place where he might find
scope for his feverish activity without mental
fatigue. Accordingly he passed the greater
part of July and August in revisiting his
old, familiar haunts among the breezy
downs of North Devon and Cornwall. He
also wandered a little in Wales. Here his
health rapidly improved. His former vigour
began to return. The following entry was
made on August loth —
" Went to volunteer inspection at Bwch.
Very prosy. Walked back fourteen miles
without fatigue."
In September he visited Clifton. '^ When
out to-day, met U-Ganda Wilson and wife, to
great surprise. Went for a walk with him.
News of Mrs. Cole's death."
lo At Home.
In October, Hannington recommenced his
work at Hurst, and got on so well that he went
up on the 8th with quite a good heart to be ex-
amined again by the CM. Medical Board. The
doctors, however, did not take such a favour-
able view of his condition as he did himself.
^^ October %th. — Went up to town, ii a.m.
Saw Medical Board. Never to go again to
Africa ! Words cannot tell pain it was. Had
an interview about going out elsewhere. Am
to wait till April."
Then follow jottings in the small Letts'
diary which refer to sermons preached and
meetings held in various places in behalf of
the Church Missionary Society. Only the
names of places, and perhaps that of the
clergyman, or some leading friend of the cause,
are to be found in the diary ; with such addi-
tions as " hearty reception," or " good meeting ;
people greatly interested," or, it might be,
the reverse.
I scarcely think that I need occupy space
in attempting to describe Hannington's many
journeyings to and fro as a deputation for the
C.M.S. No doubt many interesting anecdotes
Deputation Work. ii
about him could be fished up from the parson
ages in which they now lie buried ; but, after
all, there must always be a certain sameness
about the experiences of a " deputation."
His work is seldom a light one. He is not
only " in journeyings often," and perhaps even
" in perils," but almost certainly often " in
weariness and painfulness " at the hands of in-
considerate brethren who are determined to get
the utmost possible amount of work out of their
visitor while he is among them. But there is, as
a rule, little in the career of a deputation
about which it would interest the general
public much to hear. It may be sufficient,
therefore, to say that Hannington did not
spare himself as an advocate of Foreign
Missions during the next twelve months.
Whenever he was not required at Hurst, he
was to be found running up and down, to
and fro, throughout the length and breadth
of England, preaching and speaking with an
earnestness and persuasive power which has
left its impression upon many memories, and
which brought many a willing offering into the
treasury at Salisbury Square. But in the midst
12 At Home.
of all this zealous running about dc propaganda
fide Hurst was not forgotten. We read : —
'' November 2yd. — Busy making an African
travelling hut for the C.M.S. bazaar."
Of this " caravan " a Brighton paper says,
"On the platform were three African huts made
of willow and straw, and all about were un-
dressed ostrich feathers and skins of wild beasts.
An acacia and a palm added to the effect of
the representation, while on the platform lay a
large elephant's tusk, spears, drums, shields,
and other articles from Africa."
On December yd^ Hannington was again
examined bv the Medical Board, and this time
with a better result. " Report, Go anywhere
but Africa. Again, hallelujah ! "
On December 8///, he was elected a Fellow
of the Linnean Society.
On the 14/// of the same month, he went to
London to meet Mr. Gray with regard to a
missionary appointment in India. This, how-
ever, came to nothing.
The early part of 1884 was occupied largely
with the advocacy of Foreign Mission work
in various parts of the kingdom. In January
First mention of the Bishopric. 13
of this year he visited Edinburgh, and
stayed a week with us. It was quite evident
that, in spite of the adverse verdict of the
doctors, he had by no means lost heart about
returning to Africa — " dear Africa," as he
somewhere writes of it.
" March loth. — Interview with Dr. Baxter
on subject of return to Africa. I can see he
is against it. Cole of Mpwapwa dined at St.
eorge s.
In the entry of March ijth, occurs a men-
tion of the proposed Bishopric. — " Went up
to town. Met Dr. Baxter, and visited Sir J.
Fayrer, w^ho passed me for Africa. The
Medical Board, however, refused to pass me,
so that I cannot be appointed Bishop."
The next reference to this subject appears
in the entry of April Slh. — "Confirmation at
Hurst. Bishop gave an excellent address.
Lunch at Rectory. Consulted Bishop as to
whether I should accept Bishopric of E. Eq.
Africa. He advised me to do so.
" Letter from Mr. Wigram, saying if I get
testimonial from Fayrer they saw their way
clear to appoint me.
14 At Home.
" Wrote to F. for certificate, and to Mr.
Wigram asking for conditions."
" April gz'//.— Satisfactory testimonial from
Fayrer.
''April 11/^.— Letter from Mr. Wigram
saying that the business about the Bishopric
would be brought forward on Tuesday next.
" Tuesday the i^th. — Town with Clement
Gardner. Business about my being appointed
Bishop had to be postponed through an error
in agenda.
'•'■ April 2()th. — Correspondence Committee
elected me Bishop of East Equatorial Africa.
This has, however, to pass the General Com-
mittee, and the Archbishop."
Thus, since there was no reason to suppose
that the Archbishop would refuse to appoint
the Committee's nominee, the matter was
virtually brought to a conclusion. Hannington
had had some three months to think over the
proposal. He had tried to weigh it and scan
it from every point of view. He had prayed
that the intense desire of his heart to return to
Africa might not be suffered to mislead him ;
and he now was fully prepared to accept the
Article in the Graphic. 15
offer together with all its heavy responsibilities.
^^ May ^th, — Long interview with the editor
of the Graphic!'
About this time Hannington published the
illustrated sketch of his first African journey,
which appeared in the Gr<2//zzc newspaper, and
which has since been published in a small
volume by the Religious Tract Society.
On May ^th and 6///, Hannington took part
in the annual meeting of the C.M.S. in Exeter
Hall, and spoke at the evening meeting.
^^ April 22nd. — Letter from the Archbishop,
offering me the Bishopric of E. Eq. Africa.
Wrote and accepted, for the matter has been
long before me.
^^ April 2>oth. — To breakfast with the Arch-
bishop. He was exceedingly chatty. Chapel
afterwards, and then had an interview with
him in his study.
^^ y^une 22nd. — A prayer-meeting after even-
ing service, to ask for a new man to be raised
up to take my place (in St. George's)."
The consecration to the office of Bishop
took place on St. John the Baptist's Day, June
24th, in the parish church of Lambeth.
1 6 At Ho77tc.
^^ August ist. — A tumour has formed in
my chest. It is painful, but I don't think
dangerous. I want to go to my diocese.
Would that my loving Father would spare me
to work long, and to win souls for Him !
" Four old friends present at the prayer-
meeting to night. (Here follow the names.)
God be praised, I believe I was instrumental
in leading them all to Jesus. To Him be all
the 2:lorv. Amen. Amen."
On August the <^th^ Hannington attended
a conference at Southampton, to which re-
ference is made in the " Life." * There he met
many friends, and made many others. The
following brief extracts from the diary may be
interesting : —
" Met Mr. Spurgeon, and sat with him while
he smoked.
" Eleven a.m. meeting. Spurgeon spoke.
Very, very beautiful.
" Long conversations with Stanley Smith,
stroke of Cambridge eight.
"I am much taken with Canon Wilberforce,
■* Page 301. (Cheap Ed., p. 261.)
Canon Wilbcrforce and Air. Spiirgeon, 17
and his son Herbert. The curates strike me
as much in earnest."
Towards the close of the month he again
visited Southampton.
'' August 2^t]i. — Preached at St. Mary's, to
a thronging congregation. Choral celebration
of Holy Communion. Three p.m. spoke at
children's service. About 1,200 present.
Evening, preached at Chapel of Good Shep-
herd, and gave an after-meeting address."
Hannington now refreshed himself by a visit
of a few days to Martinhoe.
" I went with Cecil (a young African, a
convert from the Universities' Mission*) over
all the old haunts on the cliff, and had a lovely
time of it. At one place, the Eyes, near where
Rowden almost lost his life, Cecil lowered me
over the cliff by my coat collar.
"The old ladies (some of his old friends
from the cottages) came to tea and enjoyed
themselves much. I afterwards had a long
talk with and fully believe that he
was converted to God. Cecil M. has deli2:hted
*Life^ p. 232. (Cheap Ed., p. 200.)
1 8 Al Home.
Copplestone and myself much by his sound,
clear views.
" Septefnber ^th, — Preached in Norwich
Cathedral, from 2 Cor. ii. 12 and 13, with great
liberty, to a breathless congregation.
" September ']th. — Preached in the parish
church, Yarmouth, the largest in England. I
had strength given to fill it from end to end,
and had a most attentive audience.
''September 8///.— Met E. A. Fitch, with
whom I spoke about going out to Africa. He
has been much on my mind.
" September 20//^.— Preached at Hurst
College, for the Universities' Mission.
" September 22nd, — Interviewed Fitch. Al-
though matters are far from settled, yet I do
believe that the Lord will let him come with
me.
"Salisbury Confcjrence. T very bitter
about Ceylon question and CM. secretaries,
and grew very bitter with me because I up-
held them.
" September 23;"//.— I had a day of great
trial. The fact is I don't know my own heart.
1 thought that I did not mind taking a low
A Troub/esome Bishop. 19
place. But when others with rough hands
shoved me into it, I had a fearful struggle with
myself and Satan.
" September 24///. — Spent a much happier
day ; less of self and more of the Lord. O for
' none of self but all of Thee ! '
" September '^oth. — Dismissal meeting. I
spoke, and said I hoped to be a very trouble-
some Bishop.
" October 1st. — During the past nine months
I have travelled 9,292 miles, or thereabouts.
I have preached during the same time one
hundred and eleven times, and spoken at one
hundred and eighty-seven meetings, besides
being present at thirty-four others.
" October ^t/i. — Hurst. Preached morning
and evening. Fine congregations, but I did
not feel much power. I had given no time to
preparation : so busy, or, at least, thought so.
" October ^tli. — Bath. Preached to fine
congregation at St. Mark's, with much mani-
fest power.*
*A Bath newspaper says : — " The Bishop of Equatorial
Africa deHvered a sermon which rivetted the attention of
all present. Seldom has it been my lot to hear a more
20 At Home.
" October I'^th. — Left Cromer 6.27. Sir
Fowell saw me off. Met Lombe, and went on
with him to Salisbury Square. One hundred
and twenty present on T 's motion about
Ceylon. It was marvellous how the Lord,
in answer to prayer, steered us through
the difficulty, and how the motion was with-
drawn ; and, without a division, agreement
arrived at.*
" October 21st. — Interview with Thomson
of R.G.S. I liked him exceedingly."
October 22nd. — contains a warm - hearted
entry, which strikes a string upon which the
Bishop harps rather continuously during this
period. ''''Hove my Chaplain^ Hannington's
friendships were singularly fresh, and his tribute
of admiration to those for whom he cared were
most ungrudging. Friendship with him was
never a mere synonym for acquaintanceship ;
able discourse, so plain that the most ignorant could not
have failed to benefit by it, and yet one that could be
listened to and enjoyed by the cultured mind. . . . He
brought tears into the eyes of many of those present, who
will not readily forget Bishop Hannington's address,"
*" Life^'' p. 302. (Cheap Ed. p. 262.)
D.D. at Oxford, 21
he gave his heart with an ahnost boyish ardour,
and admired with something of a boy's enthu-
siasm those whom he made his friends indeed.
Elsewhere he notes, "I am deeply thankful for
my Chaplain," and again, with a sort of fatherly
pride, when Mr. Fitch was accepted by the
Correspondence Committee, " I have never
heard anybody come with higher recommend-
ations."
On Friday^ October ^^ist^ Hannington
received his D.D. degree at Oxford.
During this month of October, he spoke in
public thirty-six times, and travelled nearly
two thousand miles. The time of his departure
drew near.
^'■November 1st. — Spent a rather miserable
day, making incessant calls to say farewell.
" November 2nd. — Preached in St. George's
to a densely-crowded congregation, sitting in
pulpit and elsewhere wherever there was
room.
" November J[th. — The dismissal took place
at Salisbury Square. My Chaplain spoke very
nicely. I was very poor and washed out. Left
town 3.27. Met by Sam at the station (Hurst);
22 At Home.
and as the train to-morrow does not start until
two, I am going to remain the night.
" It was a very dull* time, but the Lord
helped me greatly.
" November ^th. — What a sad morning !
Dear little Meppy was inclined to cry, which
very nearly set me off. I had great difficulty in
taking prayers, but my dearest wife kept up so
well. I went off alone at 9.14 a.m.
" Went to Salisbury Square ; settled up
remaining matters. Said good-bye, and went
to the steamer accompanied by dear Eugene
Stock and his sister.
*' I completely broke down when saying
good-bye to Mr. Fitch and to Stock ; but
after they left I set to work to tidy my cabin
and get ready for sea."
* Comp. letter to Mr. Wigram. Life^ p. 268. (Cheap
Ed. p. 232.) "Dull "was a favourite expression of Han-
nington's. In his vocabulary it represents the equivalent
of the old meaning of the word " dreary," of which Trench
gives as an example : —
" Now es a man light, now es he hevy,
Now es he blithe, now es he drery''
CHAPTER II.
THE PALESTINE JOURNAL.
(NOVEMBER 5th, 1884— JANUARY 5th, 1885.)
" Do you think of me as I think of you,
My friends, my friends ?"
E. B. Browning.
"Joking decides great things,
Stronger and better oft than earnest can."
Milton, Trans. Hoy.
Here the Palestine Journal takes up the
narrative. This Journal was, as has been said,
evidently compiled from loose jottings during
the journey through Masai-Land to U-Ganda.
It is written in a light strain, and was, very
probably, intended partly for the children at
home ; but in it will be found much, too, that
is deeply serious, and worth perusal by all
who are interested in the Holy Land, and the
condition of the Church there.
^^ November ^th^ 1884, — What a bustle there
is at the Liverpool Street Station ! What an
unusual amount of leave-taking ! Even as the
train moves out of the station many run along-
24 Palestine journal.
side well-nigh the length of the platform to
give one last look, one more parting blessing.
" What does it all mean ? Why that we
are in the special train that is conveying P.
and O. passengers to Tilbury, thence to em-
bark for their several destinations.
" It was but eighteen months ago that I
was hurried along that same line in exactly
the opposite direction. And with what differ-
ent feelings ! Each beat of the engine was then
conveying me nearer home, and now it is
tearing me away — but I must not soliloquise,
for I have many things yet to say to those who
have so kindly determined to see the last of
us ; nor can we refrain from enquiring who
that queer old gentleman is in the corner.
We learn that he is uncle to a noble earl, and
is to occupy a berth in the same cabin as our-
selves, so more of him by-and-by.
" Wedged in on the steamer that is running
up alongside the P. and O. boat we hear a
voice at our elbow, ' Hulloa ! there is to be a
bishop on board, won't you get dosed with
! " with what I never heard, for just at that
moment the speaker's eye was raised from the
Hiilloa ! a Bishop on Board. 25
list of passengers to the strings on my hat,
thence it wandered to my gaiters, and finally
stole a furtive peep at my face — where, to judge
from the confusion that followed, it read in my
enquiring glance, ' Dosed with what, sir ? '
"What a motley crowd there was on deck !
Officers in uniform (we learn with horror that
there are three hundred troops on board),
Lascars, British tars, Chinese, Indian ayahs,
agents, and passengers, and nobody knowing
exactly what to do or say next, until at length
the bell rings, and relatives who have come to
say farewell must do so now as best they can.
The final wrench, the most agonising of all,
because it breaks the last link with England
and home.
"There may be but little time for a man to
get his cabin shipshape before he finds himself
battling with the billows, so I take the
initiative and slip below, put a week's supply
close at hand, and arrange a few little
mysteries, as O. D. C, toilet vinegar, Eno,
matches, and plenty of spare pocket-handker-
chiefs. You expect, then, to catch a cold ?
No, but it might be rough for a few days !
26 Palestine journal.
Having completed my arrangements to my
own thorough satisfaction, I was not sorrv to
hear the unmistakable peal of the dinner-bell ;
we congratulate ourselves that w^e are still in
the Thames.
'^Novejnber 6th. — We woke and could hardly
believe we have left the river, it is so smooth ;
however, to our great delight, we find, on
arriving on deck, that we are off Hastings.
We found our appetite for breakfast
sharpened by the fact that we had expected we
should prefer going without it. Judging from
the breakfast table we must have put several
passengers ashore during the night, or perhaps
they have merely overslept themselves ; but
listen — a sea chorus, with Bass-in accompani-
ment (the Ncpaiil is an old-fashioned ship,
cabins all round the saloon), informs us what
has become of them. With many breakfast
was but a sorry meal ; even on deck silence
reigned, and not a few mouths were firmly
compressed with a determined pout which
said, in the unmistakable language of silence,
'not yet.' A little gang of 'brutes,' as read
in a lady's eye rightly, have lighted their
''''Tommy Atkins!' 27
cigars, and are laughing hilariously ; — laughing
at what I should like to know — I, I, I don't
see m-much to lau-laugh at. Yeow ! Ya !
Ya-a-a ! Yu-u-up ! why do they make the bul-
warks so high ? you can scarce lean over to
admire the beautiful colour of the ocean.
Three of that little gang I named respectively
the World, the Flesh, and Mephistopheles, and
ventured to prophesy that they would develop,
and curiously enough they did. The World
was the leading man at cards. The Flesh, a
fat man without anv whiskers, became M.C.,
and undertook the concerts. Mephistopheles
took charge of the sweepstakes, lotteries, etc.
" By dinner-time more of the passengers had
disappeared, and stewards were seen gliding
to and fro mvsteriouslv like ghosts.
" The sea is no respecter of persons ; the
other Bishop* we have on board, some of the
officers, and many of the soldiers utterly
collapsed.
" Tommy Atkins intoxicated is a sad, sad
sight ; but Tommy Atkins sea-sick is certainly
worse to behold, if not to think of. He be-
* Bishop Caldwell, Coadjutor of the Bishop of Madras.
28 Palestine jfournal.
comes so utterly limp and angular and raw
and drivelling, crying, in fact, for his mother
to wipe his mouth. More than one ex-
claimed — Can this be the man to face the fierce
and wary Boer ? Even one of the officers'
servants had the weakness to turn up. I
heard his master, a whiskerless little cub in
an eyeglass, who dwank bwandy-and-sodah,
anathematising his optic organs in no measured
terms for his impudence in giving way to such
self-indulgence when he ought to have been
waiting on him. 'Tis a singular thing, people
in that position of life will try and imitate
their masters. Can you explain why they
take such liberties ? The ' Bay ' did not mend
matters ; it was not until Saturday, when we
ran under the lee of Cape Finisterre, that the
butterflies crept out of their corners to air
themselves in the genial atmosphere of sunny
Spain ; many strange faces appeared on deck,
and acquaintances that one had almost re-
garded as dead and buried suddenly came to
light again.
" Sunday^ <^th, proved to be a delightful
day, even the whales and dolphins seemed
'* O yc Whalcsr 29
eager to swell creation's chorus of praise.
Alleluia ! Bless ye the Lord ! whose mercy
endureth for ever !
"A grand giant of the deep, a sperm, leapt
high into the air, close to the ship, as if in an
ecstasy of delight, and curious to take a flying
glance at the noisy monster that was churning
its way through his dominion.
" It was truly delightful to assemble together
in Thy name, O Lord, and praise Thee who
spreadest out the heavens as a curtain, and
rulest the raging of the sea, for Thy mercies in
having preserved us and brought us thus far
on our journey in safety.
" I believe the majority of the passengers felt
this. I preached to the soldiers, and to judge
by the attention they paid, they seemed to
appreciate the Service as much as any of us.
"During the day we safely stole past the
Berlengas Islands, Torres Vedras, Cintra, and
Lisbon. I don't know whether it was fancy,
but I certainly thought that I scented the
perfume of the myrtle groves of fair Cintra ;
perhaps it was imagination, I may only have
caught a whifif from the cook's galley, which is
30 Palestine journal.
very agreeable in these appetising regions. I
had enough historic enthusiasm to pace the
deck till we were almost at St. Vincent, and
then retired to rest and to dream of Nelson,
Trafalgar, and the Peninsular heroes.
^^ Monday, loth. — I was usually early on deck,
for between Tommy Atkins, who, is an early and
a noisy riser, and the elders in my cabin not
caring for much ventilation, there was not
much to keep me below. This morning,
however, Tommy distinguished himself. I
have already remarked that he is not a sailor.
At three o'clock a.m., it struck six bells, which
Tommy mistook for six o'clock ; accordingly
he and his mates turned out, and three hun-
dred pairs of the hobbiest-nailed boots began
in one incessant stream to clatter up and
down the companion. How thankful I felt
that two hundred pairs are to part company
with us to-day, and to embark on the Orontes^
which is awaiting them at Gibraltar.
" There is one more who is an early riser, S. P.,
nephew to our good President. It is delightful
to find even one amongst the passengers eager
to see all that there is to be seen. He will
First View of Dear Africa. 3 1
miss no headland, finds a charm in every sunset
and moonrise, discourses on the stars with fer-
vour, and watches with a merry twinkle a gour-
met opposite to us enjoying his dinner. By-
the-bv, for a man to be a complete epicure on
board a P. and O. vessel he must have a small
bag with him in which he carries a particular
breed of ' Bombay-ducks,' a bottle of his own
chutnee, and a reserve of curry powder such as
can only be obtained in a certain street (name
unknown) and shop in that street in Bangalore
or Tivandrum.
" This morning P. and I were disappointed.
We expected to see Trafalgar, but no Trafalgar
appeared in view ; broad ocean, nothing more.
"About midday the beautiful mountains of
Morocco became visible. Africa? — yes, that is
Africa ; there was something about it, I could
not tell what, very thrilling. It is there,
beneath its burning sun, and amid its almost
trackless forests, that mv lot is cast, and I could
not look upon Africa once again without a
deep feeling of emotion.*
* Elsewhere he writes, ^^ November \oth. — Clear and
calm ; beautiful views of dear Africa."
32 Palestine journal.
" Late in the afternoon we entered the
Government harbour of Gibraltar, and they
commenced hauling alongside the quay to dis-
embark the two hundred pairs of naily boots.
It only struck one little group of passengers
that there was really no occasion to wait until
that operation was accomplished. These
slipped very quietly down ithe other side of
the ship into a boat, and for a shilling were
landed at the flag-staff a good half-hour
before any one else.
" I shall not describe the town nor our vain
attempt to climb to the signal station in the
dark, nor my rage at purchasing a tea-pot,
beating the man down to such a low price that
it ought to have set me thinking rather than
chuckling, and then, when safely on board,
finding the spout was stuck on with glue ; and
how all my little schemes and,hopes of afternoon
teas melted with the glue which dissolved at
once in the cold water which I poured into
the pot to wash the dust out.
"The town, with its many lights in the terraced
streets piled one over the other, reflected in
the calm sea, was like a fairy scene, and pretty
Beautiful^ biit Beggarly Malta. 33
enough, and yet, in spite of all its beauty, we
were not sorry to give our last glance, and then
steam round the headland, losing sight of town,
moles, and shipping almost instantaneously.
" lAfth. — We were close to Malta. I was
very early on deck, and not finding P., ran to
his cabin and awoke him from a most refresh-
ing morning nap. I was forgiven. We had a
beautiful sunrise, and saw St. Paul's Bay as I
have not seen it before. There was a rock
where a ship certainly might have been
jammed, standing out as clearly as possible.
I was glad to have had such a delightful view
of it.
"Malta seemed to me more beautiful and yet
more beggarly than ever. At every turn of
the streets one was saluted, shouted at, touted,
and pestered ; ordinary shrugs of the shoulders,
abnegations, and abjurations seemed utterly
useless ; however, we succeeded better than
some, who, in spite of all protests, were
followed by a guide who finally siicceeded in
extorting blackmail.
" It was a clear, cool day with threatening
rain, storms which never came, but which added
34 Palestine 'journal.
greatly to the light and shade of the landscape ;
but a kind of day with thunder in the air which
makes one irritable, and flies and beggars
particularly hovering and trying.
" I acted as guide to the sights — a kind of
Waterloo hero going over the scenes of the
battlefield.
" During our twelve hours' stay in Malta,
winds had arisen which soon produced the
usual marine disasters amongst the passen-
gers. My Scotch friend attributed it to the
fact that he had ' nae ta'en twa peels ' the night
before. I think it was the good lunches, and
the melons, leeks, and cucumbers of Malta,
rather than the absence of the pills.
" \^th. — Sunday has come round once more.
Just such another day as the last Sunday oft
Portugal ; — a day when the great deep
seemed to shout with gladness the praise of
the Creator.
"We still have one hundred troops onboard,
so, having instituted myself as army chaplain, I
again preached to a very attentive audience.
A steward was found who could play the
accordion, and we had quite a musical Service.
MissioJiary Meeting on Board. 35
" Immediately after the soldiers' Service I
hurried aft, and at special request preached to
the passengers. In the evening I gave a mis-
sionary address on East Africa, and was agree-
ably surprised at the largeness of the audience
and at the presence of some who I scarcelv
thought would venture. The address quite
unexpectedly produced a large donation.
" Late on Monday night we arrived at Port
Said.
" Mil. — What a night we had ; we sat till
nearly two a.m. to hear about Gordon and
to receive letters from the agent. I was bit-
terly disappointed about home letters, nothing
but business communications. Went below,
but Tommy Atkins was still tramping about,
and the engineers amused themselves blowing
off steam ; then coaling commenced and dis-
charge of cargo ; so that altogether we had very
little sleep. Went ashore as soon as possible ;
perhaps, after such a night I was biassed, but
Port Said did not appear to improve on ac-
quaintance. The only redeeming point about
it — if it is a redeeming point — is that the natives
are not so pestering as those of Malta, but they
36 Palestine yournal.
are more impudent, so that the gain is almost
infinitesimal ; then everything is french, and
french without a capital F — viz., of the most
meagre and vulgar descriptipn.
" Enquiring about a boat to Jaffa, I could
hear of nothing definite until Saturday, so, fear-
ing five days in Port Said, I asked permission
of the captain to continue in the Nepaiil
until they reached Ismailia, and received a
very gracious permission, and, further, a warm
expression of welcome from my friends on
board.
"We started about 8.15 a.m.; however a
small, slow merchant vessel managed to steal
in just before us, and, as we thought, delayed us
greatly. I doubt if she went more than regula-
tion pace — five miles an hour. There was the
usual mirage and the usual dispute, which, how-
ever, rose to a very unusual height and anima-
tion ; part asserting that there was no mirage ;
part that all the scene before us of sandhills
and rippling water was mirage ; and part that
the water was mirage while the bushes and
sandhills existed, though perhaps exaggerated.
So warm was the discussion that the first officer,
Theory of the Mirage. 37
boatswain, and pilot were all called in. The
verdict then was that those were right who
looked upon the water as mirage, and the sand-
hills, etc., as real. When one went aloft the
water disappeared. I account for the mirage
in this case (and the pilot tells me it is always
to be seen there) in the following way : The
sandhills are bevond the horizon, rather more
than seven miles off. The ground is virtually
perfectly level, and therefore anything upon
its surface beyond the horizon line is out of
sight. Thus, the space between the line of
the horizon and the more distant range of high
sandhills appears as water ; the ripple being
caused by heat, dazzle, and evaporation.
" This theory may be utterly wrong ; so far
as I am concerned it has the merit of origi-
nality. I have frequently seen the same effect
on the mud at Lymington.
A. Vessel in the canal. Between A. and B. Level sand plain.
B. Horizon. C. D. Sandhills. B. E. Beyond horizon, and
hence not seen. Between B. and C. appears as water.
3^ Palestine jfotirnal.
" About noon we passed Kantara, the spot
where the canal crosses the pilgrim or desert
road from Syria to Egypt, and vice versa. For
ages travellers have passed this way. Won-
derful associations — Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, the
patriarchs and Joseph, Moses in his flight to
Midian, Jeremiah, Joseph and Mary, and the
Holy Child — what a tale Kantara could tell
us ! and there, as in the days of old, was a
camel caravan, now by modern progress com-
pelled to be ferried over the silver streak of
water that entirely divides the continent from
the peninsular.
" Not far from here we were compelled to
anchor ; so no Ismailia to-night.
" The passengers gave a waxwork entertain-
ment ; it was capitally done, but amusing as it
was it seemed a little out of place in the midst
of the land of the patriarchs.
" i<^th. — Quite a new experience in the canal,
a dense fog and no starting at six. It will clear,
they cried, at seven ; but no, it grew denser
than ever. The oldest hands on board were
certain it would be gone at night ; but at night-
fall it was still very thick. We shall be off by
Ismailia. 39
nine, said the captain cheerily ; of course, he
was an authority whom all relied on. Pilot,
what do you say ? Peut-etre, messieurs, pciit-
ctrc, 710US verrons. At nine o'clock it seemed
hopelessly thick ; however at about ten o'clock
we were under way, but had no hopes of
catching the train for Cairo. At Ismailia we
were soon comfortably housed in the Hotel de
Paris, a very unpretentious place. Madame
presided at the dinner-table ; Monsieur — was
he Monsieur ? we could not quite make out —
was a very secondary person. Then came in
the chef de gave, carefully folding up his
braided coat before he joined the repast ; he
dined with us in his shirtsleeves. By-and-by
came the postmaster, and, for a special treat I
should say, since the two Englishmen called
forth all the efforts of the cuisine, the telegraph
clerk added himself to the table d'hote. It was
amusing to note the unexpressed yet unfeigned
astonishment of the chaplain. This was his
first introduction to foreign manners. Wider
and wider did his eyes dilate as the haricots
were skilfully manipulated and conveyed to
mouths on dinner knives, and as chicken bones
40 Palestine jf our rial.
were cleanly picked with no other implements
than hands and teeth. As the conversation
waxed more and more animated, and the enfant
terrible developed with the conversation, and
when Madame, true to her southern education,
drew forth her case and Hghted a cigarette, I
thought it better to retire to our rooms lest his
optic nerve should materially suffer by the
intense strain put upon it.
"Except the one little quarter called the
Arab town, Ismailia is utterly French, or modern
Egyptian. It is an immense improvement on
Port Said, for everywhere it is well planted ;
even in the midday ^sun shelter can be ob-
tained under the beautiful Leblekh trees. I
most unhesitatingly advise anybody compelled
to remain a few days in this neighbourhood, if
it is a choice between Port Said and Ismailia,
to choose the latter even at the expense of the
journey in the steamer there and back. The
sights of Coursi you may put in a nutshell — the
canal, the waterworks, and the broken-down
palace of the late Khedive, and the Arab town
to boot, might occupy, at an expansion, three
hours ; and if you did not put yourself out of
^: . ,j
1.
iv <''!§•►•"''
i>-^'
"::r
-.., k
%' .*S. *'• c«>
Tel-cl-Kehir. 41
the way to see one or the other — well, you
would not be a very great loser.
" 20th. — Cairo being for the present out of
the question, we decided to-day to visit
Tel-el-Kebir, the scene of the recent battle.
The trains were agreeable to our going and
returning the same day, so we took second-
class tickets and proceeded to cross the desert
by the worst-laid line in the world, let alone
the most dusty. In many parts quite a sand
storm was raging. It is, however, intensely
interesting thus to cross a desert, you see it
without sharing its horrors ; all the peculiar
natural features present themselves one by one
without the fearful fatigue and the burning heat
that one has experienced during only a short
march.
" But little is to be seen at Tel-el-Kebir.
Only Arabi's barracks, the trenches and English
lines, the sad little cemetery, and a great many
date palms. This is one of the principal
Egyptian date districts ; the trade being suffi-
ciently large in the season to demand an extra
service of luggage trains. I have drawn a
sketch or two of the spot. We found it difficult
42 Palestine Journal.
to occupy the two hours the train allotted to us,
in fact, half the time was spent at the railway
station, for the encampment was too hot a walk
for us to attempt, and we saw its general
appearance from the line as we went past.
'' When the train drew up, great was our
astonishment to see the dusty but famihar face
of John Barton protruding from the window.
No, he would not speak, he refused to recognise
us, and it was not for some seconds that
' Bishop ! I never ! ' burst from his aston-
ished lips. How we who ought to have been safe
at Jerusalem turned up at Tel-el-Kebir, was
more than even a more than ordinary man
could possibly imagine, and it was not until a
full explanation had been given that he
abandoned the idea that we were ghosts.
" 21^/. — Went up this morning to see the train
arrive with the troops from the NepaiiL One
or two of the passengers and W. E. Taylor
were there. After a very quiet day we em-
barked on board the steam launch which
carries the mails at five p.m. — an awkward
time, for Madame's dinner is not till six o'clock,
and we had forgotten that we ought to take
; I.
TJie Captain atid the Biilhiil. 43
food. I fumbled in my bag and found some
chocolate, and from one of my pockets turned
out a neglected biscuit. It had no longer need
to complain of want of appreciation. Between
eight and nine o'clock we stopped at Kantara ;
I ran up to the station house and was highly
delighted to secure a good big lump of some-
what sour bread, on which we thankfully dined.
Twelve at midnight we reached Port Said.
" 22nd. — Even the few hours we had to spend
here to-day were very wearisome, and one was
glad to embark on board the . Our
only other first-class passenger was a Jew
from Jerusalem, who proved, as far as his
English carried him, a very agreeable com-
panion. The captain at once struck us as
being particularly boorish and sour, nor did he
improve until he had had a severe attack of
indigestion, which softened him considerably.
The doctor whom he consulted had told him
to feed simply ; so he confined himself to one
meal a day, his dinner, at which he would eat
in about five minutes an immense plateful of
beef-steak, and a huge mass of watercress or
beetroot. He was then surprised that he felt
44 Palestine jfoiirnal.
queer, and quoted his simple diet ! But to see
the old gentleman at the best advantage was
when he employed himself carressing a sweet
little bulbul (a Persian nightingale). A grim
smile overspread the hugely-heavy jowl, and
many a tender kiss proceeded from the thickly^
moustached lips, while the gentle little dicky
would lie quite passive under the operation.
But the captain of the has drawn me to
run on faster than the ship.
" 23r<^. — The next morning we sighted land
early, and ran close by the Bay of Acre ; still
closer to Tyre, the once mighty mistress of
these seas ; and quite close to pretty little
Sidon. At five p.m. we entered Beyrout, and at
once were thrust into quarantine. As dinner
followed almost immediately after, and all the
meals were good on board, we did not mind
very much. It was on the morrow, the 24th,
that we began to pace the decks like caged
lions and wonder how four days could possibly
be got through, especially as the Jew had
migrated to the second class. However, it
was noised abroad that I had arrived, and boat
after boat came alongside to call and bring
^M'
?^ ; I'
X.
An Agreeable yew. 45
letters, and so-forth ; and the result was that
the time fled so rapidly that when Friday
morning came we scarce felt ready to disem-
bark and again enter the battle of life."*
•'•' " I am, as usual, full of cliflFerent items — reading,
painting, writing, etc. — so that I find very little spare
time." — (^Letter home from quarantine.)
CHAPTER III.
(NOVEMBER 23rd— DECEMBER nth, 1884.)
" Thy watchmen shall lift up the voice ; with the voice
together shall they sing : for they shall see eye to eye, when
the Lord shall bring again Zion." — Isai. Hi. 8.
"What an abomination this quarantine is!
It is protracted and protracted by this
wretched Turkish Government,because three or
four otherwise ill-paid officials make a market
out of it. One has the profits arising from
the sale of food in provision boats ; another
has the tax that is charged to all who call on
friends, a man having to accompany each boat
to see that they only talk and don't enter the
ship ; while finally the doctor has six shillings
a head for the final examination of the patients ;
and so it is prolonged and prolonged, and the
Holy Land nearly emptied of travellers, while
the hotel-keepers are fainting under the bad
season.
Examining Schools^ Beyrout. 47
" 2%t/L — Out of quod the first thing this
morning. Mr. Bellamy brought a boat, and
Cook's agent likewise, and accompanied us to
the shore and the Hotel Belle Vue.
" Beside the quarantine which brought us
here, I have business with regard to a dispute
that has arisen about the J. Wilson Memorial
Schools. Disputes are always painful, and so
I shall let all the details pass, and merely note
that I believe that my visit will do somewhat
to set matters on a better footing.
" After being pent up on board ship, a visit to
the old quarter of the towm, and a drive to the
Pasha's Gardens outside, w^as a delightful
change, and caused past grievances to evapo-
rate like the dew on the Lebanon before us.
" But I was not allowed to play long. The
afternoon was filled with a round of visits to
the various Christian institutions in the town.
To anvbodv who has followed the historv of
European work in Palestine, it will seem quite
natural that we should first proceed to the late
Mrs. Bowen Thompson's schools. I was a
little nervous examining various classes of
girls through an interpreter, and my discomfi-
48 Palestine journal.
ture was nearly completed when an enormous
Persian cat went off in the most fiendish yells
pen can describe ! Having just read the life
of the sainted foundress, a hallowed charm
seemed to clothe everything with intense
interest. One would have thought that the
little Scottish school we visited next would
have been seen to a disadvantage, but could a
bed of forget-me-nots in the master's garden —
for such it was — do aught but delight one's
inmost soul ? And then the Prussian Hos-
pital, and the sweet sisters, fair, fat, and
genuine Germans ; none of your angular,
pinched-up, mouth-drawn ladies, but buxom,
easy, and good-natured, just such as one
would choose to nurse him were he taken
here with a nervous malady. Dinner over (it
was meagre, and not improved by the presence
of a fast middle-class French family), we hurried
away to a full-dress reception, given in honour
of the Bishop pro-tem., by Mrs. Mentor Mott,
sister to Mrs. Thompson, and who now carries
on her work. The various consuls and resi-
dents had been gathered together to meet me,
and after a certain time I was invited to give a
Addresses and Receptions. 49
history of the work in my diocese, and to
relate my travels.
" Before breakfast the next dav I was at the
American Institution and gave an hour's
address in English to the upper classes of
students. Then came various calls, and Mrs.
Low and dear old Mr. D. had to be got off by
the steamer, which was taking its departure.
A long afternoon was spent examining the
above-mentioned college, and its most inter-
esting Palestinian museum, and above all
making the acquaintance of its various pro-
fessors, nearly all of whom I met again at an
after-dinner reception at Mr. Marriott's, at
which Mr. Sharpe, of Hampstead, who arrived
to-day from South Palestine, was present. To
be candid, there is a spicy juice about Americans
that we phlegmatic Britishers do wholly lack.
Enquiring into their work, and as to how far
self-support could be looked for, I was told
with a marked nasal twang that when Paul
first went to Europe he made a collection for
the poor saints in Palestine, and they had been
counting on the same collection ever since,,
and he (the speaker) supposed they always
50 Palestine jfoiirnal.
would ! At the same time I got a great deal of
valuable information from them, and found
them to be men of no ordinary power or parts.
" Sunday was a day to be recorded in my
episcopal annals, and only such a day as a
Bishop could spend happily in a spot where
much could conveniently be laid aside. The
Scotch Presbyterian Church had been offered
and accepted, and I and my chaplain, Mr.
Marriott, and the Scotch minister officiated.
The sermon fell to me, and met with the most
marked attention from Elders w^ho could far
better have stood up to teach me. Then a
quiet dinner with the Marriotts, and, imme-
diately after, addresses through an interpreter
to the large native Sunday schools, held under
the auspices of the Americans, many of whom
were present. Next followed the Baptism of
the daughter of the Danish Consul, and then
evening Service, followed by Confirmation of
several candidates. I administered the Holy
Communion to a large number, I think I may
say, of many denominations. A day of work,
but of much peace and happiness. Had there
been no spiritual reward I would have given
" They shall see eye to eye!' 5 1
double the labour, could I have done so, to the
kind friends amongst whom I had fallen, and
would have expended, if necessary, twice the
strength to have enjoyed, as I did, meeting in
His name many so free from party spirit.
Another delight of this joyful Sunday was,
that during the night there had been heavy
snowstorms on the Lebanon, which had com-
pletely covered the various peaks with a mantle
of white, not only affording us exquisite scenery,
but also leading us to Bible associations.
^^ Monday, about 2.30 a.m., our dragoman,
N'jem, called us up to get breakfast, or what-
ever you like to call it, before taking our seats
in the diligence, at 3.45. What was my surprise,
horror, and yet gratification, to find that
dear Mr. M. M. was awaiting our exit on the
steps of the hotel, having got up at that
unearthly hour at his great age to bid us
farewell, bringing with him English roses and
Bevrout orano^es.
" The coach proved to be crammed full. Our
seats were in the front banquette, and would
have served comfortably for two at either end,
but to have a dirty Armenian priest in one
52 Palestine 'journal.
corner, and a still dirtier conductor in the other,
and to have to share what remained in the
centre with your chaplain and a patent break,
was not even tolerable in the intense cold of a
winter's morning. However, I had had ex-
periences of the kind before, and I relieved
the chaplain's intense misery by prophesying
that we should get smaller and shake down
better as our food digested ; and so we did.
But oh ! my friends, picture to yourself the
Damascus ' 'bus ' — a diligence that once ran
in France, but was superseded by the modern
invention of railways. It is within the bounds
of possibility that, before I was born, my father
in his journeys to Paris rode in that self-same
diligence ; but never mind, I have to enjoy as
best I can under such circumstances, and
through the dusty panes of the windows, the
lovely scenery of the Lebanon. Beautiful,
indeed, even though not seen to special ad-
vantage on this route. Ever and anon the
landscape was enriched by magnificent flocks
of sheep following in the wake of their good
shepherds, who, it is said, not unfrequently lay
down their lives in defence of their sheep.
On the Damascus ^ Bus. 53
" Towards the middle of the day we came
across an almost continual flow of camel
caravans, either bearing the riches of the
East westwards, or carrying American oil and
the commodities of the West to Damascus,
and parts yet more remote. How strange ! —
Solomon's apes, peacocks, and almug trees,
giving place to paraffin, Manchester cotton,
and Brumagem brittles.
*'We ascended several thousand feet and
experienced a great many changes of temper-
ature during the day ; sometimes scorched by
the sun, sometimes perished by biting wind ;
and yet it was a most enjoyable day. At the
last stage, in the beautiful valley of Barada,
we espied two English faces, and found that
Mr. Connor, the C.M.S. missionary, and the
Rev. , agent to the Jews' Society, had come
to meet us with a carriage, for, said they, if
strangers ride through this valley in an open
carriage (N.B. — The diligence was close shut),
they are sure to get fever. We felt intensely
gratified at their kindness, but I felt a feverish
shiver run down my back w^hen I found that
we were to have a tighter squeeze than before,
54 Palestine journal.
and that by some unlucky accident the carriage
refused to shut, so that I almost got fever by
thinking about it ; the more so, as from my
African experience I was fain to believe I was
a very feverish subject. However, no harm
came of it in the long run, and we were soon
comfortably ensconced in the new hotel.
" In Damascus : perhaps the oldest city in
the world, ever altering, modernising, and yet
remaining in many respects so much the same.
Eleazar of Damascus still sits under the shadow
of Abraham's tree, still leads his camels laden
with rich stuffs through the streets and
crowded bazaars, yea, the very street that
was called Straight in the days of St. Paul is
called Straight still. Fragments of all ages,
associations of all known times, are met with
on every hand. One breaks away from a few
wretched Franco-Turkish modern barbarous
vulgarisms into all the rich beauty of the East.
Out of our new hotel we plunged into a maze
of bazaars, with a marvellous admixture of
Damascene works, and Sheffield and Paris ;
yet all looked strangely bright and beautiful
and different to anything we had seen before
"^$^:^e^'%^->
Damascus. 55
To me one of the most striking scenes that
meets the eye is from some dirty narrow lane —
street you can scarce call it — to get a peep into
a rich Arabesque court, with its fountain of
water and intensely-beautiful Mauresque work.
Some of our friends w4iom we visited lived in
exquisite houses, at least as regards the
internal decoration. Little alhambras with
niches, and a variety of patterns over which
the eye could wander, tracing their meander-
ing without wearily harking back again and
again to the point from which it started.
" Of course we visited the legendary spots ; it
is a duty, and it sets one a-working out one's
own theories upon mooted questions. Our
time, however, was so short that we were
rather inclined to let the traditions stand un-
questioned, and try to realise more fully that
it was indeed in this city that the eyes of the
great Apostle were opened to see the glories
of the Gospel of Christ ; it was here, too,
that he first began to realise the trials and
sorrows which awaited him in the world, being
let down from the wall in a basket to escape
his former friends. Some years ago I met a
56 Palestine '^oiirnaL
man in the ancient capital of Russia who told
me that he was more reminded of Damascus
by the view outside Moscow than of any other
spot. We climbed the hills, which encircle
the city, to some little distance, but the view
of the town is disappointing, its minarets are
comparatively few, and not, to my mind, in
any way to be compared to the bright domes
of Moscow.
"The most interesting sight in the city to me
was the early Christian church, which is now
the grand mosque ; and the climb through
various narrow passages to the roofs of the
surrounding bazaars to see the great inscrip-
tion, was not the least interesting part of our
visit. It is sad to see how, under Turkish
misrule, the ancient Damascus work of the
mosque is falling to pieces. But the special
charm of Damascus is its bazaars and their
occupants. Bedouins, Druses, and various
Easterns in their gay clothing throng them.
As long as we were able to take things quietly
and go on foot I enjoyed strolling about
immensely ; driving, however, was a perfect
misery, for we were ever running the closest
Prison and Leper Hospital. 57
shaves of killing old and young — the streets
are not built for the modern carriage, even
though perhaps at one time they may have
been bejostled with chariots of iron. My
duties soon called me from sight-seeing. First
there was a Confirmation, then a Baptism,
then a Bible reading, and after that the differ-
ent schools and institutions were visited. I
then made calls on the devoted workers who
are spending and being spent in the good
cause. I must not forget to note a visit to
the prison inside the castle ; a douceur to the
captain of the guard obtained admittance.
The horrid, close stench that met us at the
doors, and the look of misery on the faces of
those at the very entrance, was enough to
damp the ardour of exploration. There are
three prisons, one inside the other, out of the
third and innermost dungeon prisoners are
supposed never to come out alive ; into this
awful den we did not venture.
" The Lepers' Hospital — if hospital you can
call it — we also visited. There seemed to be
almost a deeper keynote of despair ringing
through it than even through the darkest
5^ Palestine jfournal.
dungeon of the prison. If anything can help us
to realise how hideous sin is in God's sight it is
the fact that leprosy is its type. At length
time came to start. Since my arrival plans had
altered. Turkish misrule, while it had been per-
mitting the French Jesuits to work freely in the
Hauran, had been seriously interfering with
the movements of Mr. Connor, the C.M.S.
missionary. I found that he had been
threatened with arrest should he attempt to
enter the district ; the only reason being that
the Jesuits do not hesitate to bribe the
wretched officials heavily. The C.M.S. cannot
work in this way. However, after much con-
sultation and searching of heart — for a visit to
the Hauran is fraught with danger on account
of the dangerous Druses and Bedouins of the
Leja — I determined to go and visit the schools
there, and to take Mr. C. with me. I felt that
if I were arrested it would bring the question
to a crisis. If I were robbed I was but
travelling with a small outfit, and little worse
threatened, since the Arabs appeared to be
thieves and robbers, rather than murderers.
For instance, the Brighton tragedy of the
Resolves to traverse the Hauran. 59
' one-horse shay ' was repeated upon the
persons of a gentleman and his wife, in the
neighbourhood of Damascus. They were
so completely stripped that a Times news-
paper had to be divided between them in which
to clothe themselves. The day before the
start I called officially on the consul, and told
him I had not come for advice or permission,
but to tell him I was going, and much hoped
that my visit would give him no trouble ;
since, although he ignored all responsibility,
yet, had anything happened, he must have
closely investigated the case. He was rather
ominous and reticent, and hoped that we might
get safely through. ' Yes, yes, I should think
perhaps you might, but nobody has visited
those parts for a long time ; an English Bishop
never.'
" So the dragoman N'jem was sent for, and
won my admiration by raising no difficulties
whatever, not even asking for a Turkish
escort, which would have been sure to bring
us utterly to grief.
" Our intention was to make a small detour
to visit a school in the neighbourhood of
6o Palestine jfoiirnal.
Damascus, but Mr. C. having failed to keep
the appointment which I had made with him,
there was not sufficient time, so we mounted
our horses and struck straight for the Hauran.
" The country was strange but not beautiful ;
in a short time scarce anything green graced
the landscape and rough lava beds, while
fallows that in the wet season wave with corn
stretched away bare and brown for miles. In
the middle of the day N'jem called a halt, and
astonished our hungry eyes by the feast which
he spread before us. N'jem's cases were like
the magic boxes of Fairyland. A never-ending
variety came out of them, and everything just
as it was wanted. How it was managed I do
not know, but we lived like aldermen in the
midst of a desert land. I only wish we could
manage a little more like it in E. Eq. Africa !
At night we halted at a Druse village. The
sheikh was ill, and our visit to him was con-
sequently not very interesting. We heard
there were some hieroglyphics in a neigh-
bouring mountain ; they asked us to stop to
interpret them, supposing they related to hid-
den treasure.
Crossing- the Frontier. 6i
" The next day was an exciting one. In the
first place we were approaching the north
border of the Leja, the stronghold of the
fierce Bedouins ; and in the next place towards
noon we must run the gauntlet of the Turkish
fort, where they had one hundred soldiers to
block, or — as they call it — to ' guard ' the
entrance to the Hauran.
"After riding a short time the smoke of Arab
encampments was discerned, and at last we
came across a few stragglers ; but if all are as
quiet as these we shall not get much hurt.
Presently we were rendered still more un-
comfortable by seeing the Turkish banner
floating over a modern barrack, and by-and-
by we met soldiers, but apparently they took
our approach very quietly. Nearer and nearer
we drew, and at last one of them came up and
spoke to us, asking the news of the day.
There did not seem any signs of the guard
turning out or even disturbing itself on our
account. The captain, I imagine, was either
asleep or playing cards with his subordinates,
and, having received no instructions from
Damascus, let us pass without a question. So
62 Palestine JournaL
I am not to be sent back in irons to the ancient
city, and henceforth we have only to keep a
watchful eye upon Druses and Arabs. To-
wards sunset we camped at the foot of a fine
mass of ruins, standing on a considerable
eminence. The day was too far spent to
admit of our making a survey there and then,
although this was really our first introduction
to a giant city of Bashan.
" Saturday, December .—The chief of the
village was absent, so his son, a lad of twelve
years, did the honours, and led us round the
ruins and pointed out a few fragmentary Greek
inscriptions. The remains here were mostly
ofthe classical period ;allthe more ancient ruins
have been removed by constant occupations ;
so there was little to delay us. A village or
two further on the chief was a friend of
Connor's, so we turned aside and made a call.
We were received with the true hospitality of
the East, and, as we protested against a feast,
light refreshment was provided for us. The
measure of our march to-day being fixed, not
by the setting sun, but by the nearest of the
C.M.S. schools, I had time to turn aside and to
Giant Houses, 63
inspect some stray ruins which seemed sunk in
the rents and chasms of a lava spur projecting
from the Leja into the Hauran, and I certainly
was richly rewarded by my venture. I found
a three-storied house almost as entire as when
it left the hands of the Anakim, or whoever
built it. It had been left a nameless ruin, over
which the hand of Time had passed but liofhtlv :
and in this dry chmate even lichens and mosses
had been unable to mar the fresh appearance
of the basalt which seemed but yesterday to
have left the mason's hand. There hung the
huge stone doors, turning easily in their sockets
of stone. Seven feet high, together (for thev
were double) five feet broad, and about nine
inches thick. There, too, were windows of
stone ; here one shut, there one open. Giant
monoliths resting on corbels formed the roofing
of the chambers and the floor of the story
above ; and all I saw w\as so fresh that, except
for the desolation of stones around, and a few
broken places in the walls, it scarce looked
like a ruin, far less one over w-hich more than
three thousand years had rolled. On our
arrival at we met with a hearty reception
64 Palestine jfoiirnal.
from the Druse chief and the schoolmaster and
elders of the villaije. We were sorrv, how-
ever, to find that the chief had not vet given
the schoolmaster either a habitable house or a
schoolroom. It must, however, be said that
not much time had slipped away, and water is
just now so valuable that all dealings in bricks
and mortar are brought to a standstill, and will
be until rain falls.
^^Sunday, December . — We greatly needed
a day of rest, and we at least had it as regards
the saddle, but it was rather like an African
camp Sunday. Connor, who is an able and
a fluent Arabic scholar, held a Service, inviting
all who liked to come, and several of the
Druses heard the Words of Life. Messages
had been sent to all the neighbouring sheikhs
of our arrival, so one after the other thev
came in gala-attire to pay their respects,
with their retainers ; and the chief of the
village prepared a large feast for the evening.
Not only Druses, but also Arab chiefs from the
Leja came ; for just at present they are at
peace with each other — a lucky circumstance
which very seldom occurs. Some of the prin--
Tents of Kedar. 65
cipal Arabs of the north part of the district
being camped near, we also found time to pay
them a visit. The black tents of Kedar are
mere curtains of camel-hair bent over a few
short poles, and look in the distance like a
gipsy encampment. A traverse curtain
separates the women's quarter from the men
and the guest, above and below which inquisi-
tive eyes might be seen to peep. Out of all
keeping with the kind of Irish squalor of
chickens and goats and sheep all around
(pigs are excepted) were the magnificent
Persian carpets on which we were stretched.
I don't think it has ever been my lot to
sink down into richer dyed wools, and
had it not been for its other occupants, I think
I should have been tempted to slip round that
way at night to see if the Arabs sleep soundly !
The great event of the visit is the coffee. The
host has a kind of brazen shovel brought, in
which he roasts the beans ; then he takes a pestle
and mortar of the oak of Bashan, and with his
own hand he pounds it to powder, making the
hard oak ring forth a song of welcome to the
guest. Many of these pestles and mortars are
66 Palestine Journal.
heirlooms, and are richly ornamented, and
beautifully black and polished by age and use :
such was the one in question. Having drunk
coffee (for the honoured guest the cup is filled
three times), you are quite safe in the hands of
the most murderous. So far do they carry this
superstition, that a man who had murdered
another fled to the dead man's father, and
before he knew what had happened drank
coffee. Presently friends came in, and, as they
were relating the news to the bereaved father,
recognised the murderer crouched beside the
fire. They instantly demanded vengeance.
No, said the father, it cannot be ; he has drunk
coffee, and has thus become to me as my son.
Had he not drunk coflTee the father would
never have rested until he had dyed his hands
in his blood. As it was, it is said that he
further gave him his daughter to wife.
" After a round of visitors, a servant came to
the tent to say, 'Come, for all things are
ready,' so, putting on my robes by Connor's
advice, we crossed over the fosse to the sheikh's
house. The houses in these ruined cities are
nearly all the same, they occupy the solid
An Arab Banquet. 67
ground story of one of the best giant houses,
which have often had fine vaulted arches added
by the Romans, or inferior ones by the Arabs
themselves. On entering the door there is the
public court into which you walk with your
boots or sandals, and which is as open to all
comers as the street itself; then, under the
same roof, only a step higher, and railed off by
a low stone wall, is the guest chamber. Before
stepping up, shoes are removed. I was con-
ducted to the chiefs corner, where the best
carpet was spread, and cushions for the elbow
provided ; and the other guests were placed
according to their respective rank. Coffee must
of course first be served, and then the guests'
tray laden with the delicacies of the day ;
these are of various descriptions, meat and
sweets are rather promiscously mixed up, and
clarified butter and honey play a large part in
the ingredients. Easterns believe strongly
that fingers were made before forks ; the host
advances to the tray and tears off a delicious
mouthful or two, and either places them before
the chief guest or thrusts them into his mouth ;
then with the thin, flexible wafer-bread, which
68 Palestine journal.
serves as a table-cloth, napkin, spoon, and fork,
you help yourself to one or all of ^the dishes,
as fancy bids you, only breaking silence to
entreat the host to partake with you of that
which he has provided. The honoured guests
having satisfied themselves, water is again
brought, and the right hand, which alone must
be used to eat with, is washed as it was before
the feast. Then a huge tray is brought, around
which other guests of less importance and the
family seat themselves, and it is marvellous to
see how the huge masses of provisions silently
disappear. After dinner conversation began,
and we endeavoured to limit it to the object
of our visit, and the reasons for missionary
effort. The principal Arab sheikh of the
north part of the Leja was particularly anxious
that we should send him a schoolmaster to
teach his children and people ; in fact, one and
all are anxious for education, and, to put it in
plain language, will brook any amount of
Christian teaching, provided only their children
can move with the times. But the topic w^hich
is nearest to their hearts is English occupation.
Druses and Bedouins groan under Turkish
An After-dinner Talk with the Arabs. 69
oppression, and possess an extraordinary
amount of information about foreign politics
and Mr. Gladstone, and would rise to a man, at
a moment's notice, to drive the Turk from the
holy soil. Next to politics comes finance and
money-lending ; they are all more or less in
fearful thraldom to Jewish usurers. Nothing
they possess can be really called their own ;
they groan under a yoke which they them-
selves have forged ; utterly dishonest in their
dealings, they can only get dishonest scoundrels
to deal with them. And yet none, I should
say, are more quick to recognise and honour
an honest man, either amongst themselves or
others ; they say of such, if an Eastern, ' He
is a man with the word of a Frank.' I firmly
believe that an honest substantial firm of
bankers would make a fine fortune in Damascus,
in spite of having to deal with clients who
could only be designated as thieves and cheats.
" Monday^ December Wi. — Nothing in the
shape of direct payment for yesterday's hospi-
tality must be given, much as a few dollars
were needed. Matters have to be arranged
with the subtle delicacy of the East. The
70 Palestine jfoiirnal.
sheikh was asked to send his chief servant to
hold my stirrup as I mounted horse, and,
perhaps as a matter of curiosity, the price of
sheep asked, and if I wanted to buy ; then,
with a good bit of pretended secrecy, though
in reality with an immense amount of clinking
and fumbling, in order that not only his fellow-
servants but his master might know exactly
what he received, the value of the sheep
killed was thrust into his hand, and away we
rode leaving them to adjust matters to their
own satisfaction. A very big chief would
leave all with the servants, seeing perhaps a
fair division, content to hear them sing his
praises in terms of this sort : ' The sheikh is
a very great man. See what a feast he gives ;
what rich guests gather round his board ! " but
mostly the chief would, when our backs were
turned, have the douceur handed over as a
matter of course.
" Between the two Bedouin sheikhs whom
we met yesterday, there was a striking con-
trast in appearance. The one looked savage
and wicked to a degree, the other mild and
benevolent — a remarkably handsome man, he
How the Bill was Paid. 7^
would have made a splendid artist's model for
an Abraham or Jacob. Conversation, however,
took a warlike turn, and this sheikh bared his
body and showed an amazing number of scars,
and, as he dilated on one and the other, his
eyes flashed fire, his brow grew fierce and
gloomy, a change gradually crept over the
mild-eved old man, and when at last, at our
instance, he took a sling and showed us how he
could strike a rock at one hundred yards dis-
ance with a force that broke the stone slung, he
was changed into a veritable fury. Then again the
storm that had gathered under the excitement
of the moment sank to rest, and there re-
appeared the sage of the tribe and our hospi-
table host. We shivered and felt glad that we
were his guests and not his foes.
" Skirting the Leja for some distance, and at
times even dipping into this extraordinary lava
field, we at last turned off in the direction of
the Druse mountains, and, after an intensely
hot climb, entered Philipopolis, a very exten-
sive late Roman city. Much remains standing-
columns, houses, amphitheatre, gates, and well-
paved streets ; and under the shade of one of
72 Palestine journal.
the JSnest city portals, we ate our lunch. The
Jesuits have a school here, the master was
very anxious to show us everything, and that
we should examine his scholars, we, however,
thought better not. Ascending a steep hill on
the east side of the town, we entered a lava
field of the very roughest description, and
having reached the top, we were delighted to
find the verdant landscape before us dotted
with veritable oaks of Bashan. After three or
four days without a tree, scarce a blade of
grass at this time of the year to be seen, it
was an immense treat, a feast to the eye
wearied with stones and jagged lava. The oak
of Bashan has a magnificent acorn, but is very
stunted, gnarled, and knotted. Looking at the
trees you can easily understand how it is that
the coJBfee pestles and mortars formed of them
are so handsome. Descending a steep valley
we came to the crater of a volcano, above
which was a fine ruined fortress ; to this C. and
I climbed, while the less adventurous F. and
N'jem rode quietly round the foot. Going
down on the other side we lost our way in a
maze of vineyards, and, curiously enough,
Karrawat, 73
came across a native in whom C. recognised a
friend of former days. Sunset brought us to the
majrnificent ruins of Karrawat. Here we had
the opportunity of seeing something of a Druse
marriage festival, but, as it lasted about seven
days, we only saw, as may be imagined, a small
portion of it. The chief of the village was a
lad of about seventeen, who had learnt to read
in the C.M.S. schools ; but he was too much
taken up with the feast to pay us any attention.
" December C)th. — The early morning we
devoted to the ruins, which are Roman and
Greek, and on a very extensive scale. There
are fine remains of an early Christian church,
and fragments of beautiful moulding and reliefs,
but the gem of Karrawat — the ancient Ker-
ioth — is its Greek Temple. Tt is simply a
small group of Corinthian columns, irregular
now from the gaps made by the rude hand of
Time ; but Corinthian columns are always
beautiful, and, with an eye to the picturesque,
seldom neglected in early days, these have
been placed on a slight eminence which isolates
them from all around, and adds to their mag-
nificent loftiness. Immediately behind them,
74 Palestine J-oiirnal.
and yet below, are the green oaks of Bashan ;
yet further, stretches away the black field of
Leja, with its singular eminences and peaklets ;
and, yet further still, snowclad Hermon, and the
Lebanon, Tabor, and, in faint, blue outline,
yea, even Carmel on the shore of the Medi-
terranean : a Pisgah view of the possessions
of the Northern tribes. No ruin that I have
ever seen appeared to me so beautiful as these
few remains of the Karrawat Temple. But we
had to tear ourselves away, since there was
much business to get through that day.
'' Taking a westerly direction we reached and
took bv storm the little town of , where
we were led to expect that we should find a
flourishing C.M.S. school. We called on
the chief, who accompanied us, and then,
without warning, entered the schoolroom and
found it in perfect working order. It was a
refreshing treat to hear the answers of the
children, and to watch the evident delight with
which the parents, who had now flocked into
the room, listened to my astonished comments.
I was the more pleased when I found that the
bright young schoolmaster had only been there
^ jl
K- •*
■ft'*'
■sr.>,
A Flourishing C.M.S. School. 75
about six months. I think I am right in savino:
he was trained by the Americans at Beyrout,
and his brother is doctor at Jenin. It was
an immense disappointment to them that we
insisted on hurrying on. The sheikh and
people were prepared to display the utmost
hospitality, but much work was before me, and
although a few strokes of the pen suffice for a
description of what we did, there was, in
reality, much pleasant toil to be undergone,
and, much as one might wish it, delay was
impossible. A horse is soon to be obtained in
these parts, so, dismissing the school for a half-
holiday — no treat to them — the schoolmaster
quickly leapt into the saddle and accompanied
us to the next village, where arrangements had
to be made about the fulfilment of a promise
to open a school. Here, at C.'s instance, I
bought a very beautiful coin of Ptolemy. We
had not gone very far when I subjected it to a
close examination, and pronounced it to be a
' duffer.' Why not examine it at first ? I was
completely taken in by the extreme out-of-
the-way ness of the place where I bought it —
a spot without one attraction to draw a
76 Palestine journal.
stranger, Jew or Gentile. I did not at all like
having been cheated, especially as there was
plenty of opportunity to have examined it.
However, to follow it up, I showed it to two
or three Palestinian ' conosers ' and got
laughed at ; sold it in fun to an amateur, then
told him how I had taken him in, and took back
my bargain. Finally, in Egypt, I gave it away
as a model, hereafter to learn that it was an
original, but of such pure, soft silver that it
cut like lead. That coin was a disappointment
to me from first to last ! I felt more taken in
by its genuineness than when I thought it was
a forgery.
" Resuming our march, we arrived at the
important Druse stronghold of . We
found here a powerful chief and a telegraph
station, and a great thirst for European news.
There were several Turks about, doubtless
in the capacity of spies, for South Druse-Land
has ever been a thorn in the sides of the Turks.
The sheikh had built a large guest chamber
for summer use, and had conveyed thither a
few interesting fragments ; but though the
situation was fine the ruins were nothing very
Druse and African Fleas. 77
particular ; and fleas, the scourge of the Holy
Land, afflicted me as I never was afflicted
before ; fortunately, the African fleas, though
at times they jump upon you in countless
numbers, far exceeding even the inhabitants of
a Druse village, are not nearly so virulent in
their biting powers. During the night a tre-
mendous gale of wind raged, and besides being
swamped by dust and perished by cold, we had
the utmost difficulty to keep the tent on its
legs.
''''Wednesday^ December loth. — A short ride
brought us to the village of , the most im-
portant of Druse sheikhs. He has lately been
signalising himself by oppressing the Christians
in his district, but he received us with the
greatest politeness, and at once ordered a meal
to be prepared, and sent for an old man named
Alexander, who was formerly a Greek priest,
but has since become, under the most des-
perate persecution, a Protestant. It was
delightful to see the old man fall on Connor's
neck and kiss him on both cheeks ; it seemed
to be an illustration of the meeting of Jacob and
Joseph. The chief, amongst other questions,
78 Palestine jfoiirnal.
asked about bishops ; he had heard of
priests and deacons, but the office of overseer
was new to him ; whereupon Alexander
brought forth the New Testament and read
I Timothy iii., which seemed to please the chief
much. He was himself able to read, and pro-
fessed to have read the Bible through, but
could see no necessity for reading it again.
He had heard what it had to say. The ancient
Alexander to day feasted in the house of his
arch-enemy and oppressor, to whose care we
especially commended him, asking the chief, as
a favour to us, not to oppress either Greeks,
Protestants, or Roman Catholics, but to be
kind to all who professed to call themselves
Christians. The request received a ready
assent, but I could not help feeling that it was
not unlikely that it might rather stir up a fresh
burst of persecution. The feast over, we broke
away from the direct route as regards work to
visit Bostra, the most important town in these
parts and the largest pile of ruins in the im-
mediate neighbourhood. Like Karrawat, it is
late classical with ruins of early Christian
churches, Greek temples, streets and buildings,
"77/c Ancient Alexander!' 79
and a fine ruined fort now containing a Turkish
garrison. Here one could trace the touches
of many hands, and we could well have delayed
had the place not been in such a filthy state
that one feared to tarry for fear of catching a
plague. As it was I sadly grudged the time
we had to give to sipping coffee with the
Turkish commandant, and felt, too, rather sad
that I could not slip the backsheesh into his hand
instead of the sergeant's ; the poor man would
have been so glad of it, could only pride have
been disposed of. No doubt, however, at
ecarte or some such game, the coin went
the round of the authorities of the fort before
daylight again dawned upon them.
" We had now reached the farthest and most
easterly point in our journey, but still we had
no steps to retrace. We arrived in the even-
ing at the Christian village of , where
the C.M.S. have another school. Here our
arrival was anticipated, for ancient Alexander
had mounted a horse and crossed a plain to
have the pleasure of seeing more of Connor
All the village turned out and gave us quite
an ovation, the Greek priest at their head, but
8o Palestine journal.
it was too late for anything more than welcome,
and the news of the day must be left for
morning light.
'^ Thursday^ December nth. — Work first,
pleasure after, is an excellent motto, so before
sitting down to breakfast with the village
authorities I inspected the school. The last
tnne Connor had visited this school he had
found it necessary to reprimand the school-
master somewhat severely, I was therefore
very pleased to find that there were great signs
of alteration, and that the answers of the pupils
were most satisfactory. The priest lent his
church for the purpose — a primitive building
considerably below the level of the ground
outside, and bearing traces of the hands of
Bashan builders. It was very pleasurable to
see the building crammed with children and
parents, and to watch the intense eagerness of
all as to the answers given, the fathers scarcely,
able to refrain from answering for their chil-
dren. Having pronounced favourably on the
work, we adjoined to my tent for breakfast.
N'jem and staff being chiefly Greeks, they had
taken, if possible, extra pains with the feast.
■\.M-'<a^6ji'^
..^..-^..^.1
r^X*--^ ■%
Alexander s Compensations. 8i
Unfortuately, however, it was a fast day. Will
the priest take some steak ? No, it is a fast. 'Am
I to fast too,' said the chief elder of the village,
in such a piteous whine that it nigh brought
tears to my eyes. ' Yes, man,' was the terse
reply. I so far forgot my own importance as not
to think of overruling the priest's decision, for
they have, I believe, sufficient reverence for
an English bishop to accept his dispensation,
especially on such an occasion. The ancient
Alexander had, for once in a way, the best of
it. He has suffered even more at the hands of
the Greeks than of the Druses, and while
sharing persecution equally with the Greeks
from the Druses, simply as a Christian, his
most bitter cup is from his own relations and
friends as a Protestant. I fancy I saw a grim
smile of satisfaction steal over the old man's
face as he, alone of the guests, laid in a break-
fast for himself and them. After the feast — I
suppose I ought to call it a fast — we mounted
our steeds, and Alexander, having been secretly
bidden to follow a little and kiss the bishop's
hand, he found to his glee that he was kissing
a solid silver lining.
82 Palestine Journal.
'' As there were spies in the village, the Greek
elder sent on with me a man to ostensibly show
the way, but virtually to pour into my ear a
dismal story of the persecutions and oppres-
sions they were receiving at the hands of the
Druses. The tale of woe touched my heart,
although I could not help remembering how
cruelly they had dealt with Alexander, and how
bitterly the Christians, Greeks, and Roman
Catholics, in parts where they w^ere the
strongest, were at that very time persecuting
the Druses, who had many of them been com-
pelled to leave their homes and fly to other
parts. To my mind, every corner of the Holy
Land, every section of work, every denomina-
tion, with a few bright exceptions, seem.s to
tell the same tale, that on the land there rests
at present a curse."
- <
5^
CHAPTER IV.
(DECEMBER 13th— 20th.)
"When men are rightly occupied, their amusement grows out of
their work, as the colour-petals out of a fruitful flower." — RusKiN
Sesame and Lilies.
" Our ride to-day was not an interesting one
until the ancient Edrei came close in view • its
natural situation is very fine although there is
nothing in its remains to cause delay. So sel-
dom does it appear to be visited by Europeans
that all who passed us said we were Circassian
refugees. The Circassians at the present time
are fleeing from Russian oppression and taxa-
tion in very great numbers, and taking refuge
in Mohammedan lands to the south.
" What a tale a fact of this kind tells !
" The people here were rather inclined to be-
have badly towards us, but scarce enough to
complain about. We experienced a worse
inconvenience by getting lost in the dirty
streets, and night was well advanced before we
discovered N jem and the tents. And a hearty
84 Palestine jfournal.
meal, with hunger — the best sauce — soon bids
one forget troubles of that sort.
^''December 12th. — Leaving Dehat, we took a
more southerly direction, and although the
villages were less and less interesting, and all
traces of hands older than late classic period
were wanting, except perhaps in a socket or
fragment of an ancient door, yet Nature rose to
the occasion, and the scenery vastly improved.
At one place we came to so steep a cutting in
chalk cliffs that the muleteers absolutely
refused to try the descent, and, taking the law
into their own hands, turned back by another
route. On this occasion, and this only, my
wrath broke forth upon N'jem in a storm that
took away his breath. And for this reason :
We wanted to leave the w^ell known route and
go by another less known road, upon which
N'jem and the muleteers declared that there
were dangerous Arabs ; but both the Arabs
and the deep cutting were an excuse that I saw
through. The fact w^as, that they wanted to
make a wide circuit which would take two
extra days, while we wished to reach Tiberias
by Sunday ; and, besides, the way they wished
Wrath. 85
to take would have missed several interesting
corners. I felt there was a reason to break
forth upon N'jem, when, after having fought
the battle and insisted on going by the road
which we had determined upon, I found that
the muleteers had after all slipped back, and
that we had only to follow. Descending the
valley at another place, I thought that a judg-
ment had come upon me when we suddenly
espied an Arab emcampment! the men however
were all away, and, in any case, I daresay they
were quiet enough.
" We camped early in a very pretty spot, and
while wandering round the town, we thought
we discovered, in fact doubtless did discover,
an unopened tomb, but none of our weapons
or the tools we could borrow in the village
rose to the occasion ; the men of that city,
though desperately anxious to find treasure,
could not be induced to work with a will,
their object being to tire us out and open it as
soon as we had departed in peace.
" December i2)th. — I held to my original plan,
and, despite the detour of yesterday, started
for Mkes, the ancient Gadara. Every step of
86 Palestine journal.
the way the scenery improved, until we found
ourselves in a beautiful forest region, but
travelling over slippery limestone rocks, on
which I had two very dangerous stumbles
with my horse. By the middle of the day we
found ourselves literally among the tombs, the
whole place swarming with broken sarcophagi
and rock-hewn chambers, the doors of which
in many instances remained perfectly entire
and in working order. There was a weirdness
about the whole scene that marvellouslv
pressed upon me the demoniac tomb-dweller,
and the destruction of the herd of swine.
But Gadara, whether it be its tombs, or its
site, or its Roman remains, is intensely inter-
esting. I suppose that the tombs have had
more than one set of tenants, and although
they have been stamped as Roman by Roman
ornamentation and bas-reliefs cut upon them,
I imagine that they also beai traces of much
older hands. We lingered over them even
too long, for we had much yet before us.
Descending a very deep hill we entered the
valley, and soon came to the Jarmuk, across
whose rapid stream we with great difficulty
My Horse lies down in the River Jarmiik. 87
crossed. My horse attempted to lie down,
and one mule was as nearly as possible swept
away, and bedding and several things were
badly wetted.
" We are to be attacked by Arabs at last, and
on the very threshold of the City of Refuge,
for, once across Jordan, there is very little to
fear. About twenty horsemen are scouring
the plain we are crossing : they are not follow-
ing one behind the other, as usual on the road ;
thev are not even ridins: abreast, as if in con-
versation ; they are scouring in search of prey
and coming rapidly towards us. I made up
my mind I would have the honour of being
first attacked, so I put spurs to my horse and
moved a little ahead of the rest, while N jem
examined the locks of his s^un. On thev draw.
Those are not Arabs surely ! They are Euro-
peans, we shall perhaps get some news : it is a
party of travellers. No, they are not Euro-
peans, in spite of one party carrying an
umbrella aloft. They prove to be a party
of Turkish soldiers in search of some
sheep-stealers. And so excitement dies away
as suddenly as it rose, and we turn our
88 Palestine Journal.
speculations to Jordan. ' If we scarce crossed
the small Jarmuk, what about the larger waters
of Jordan ? ' N'jem has no fears. Sacred associ-
ations are again interrupted, and our medita-
tions broken, not by robbers, but by a horse
fair, held at a small village south of the sea ;
but our recent experience has in no wise
tempted us to renew our acquaintance with the
trade. So we pass on, and find ourselves on the
banks of the Jordan and the shore of Tiberias,
just at the very spot where the stream has its
exit. N'jem was right ; there was nothing to
fear. The river is broad, shallow, and slow,
and very different to the narrow but deep,
stony Jarmuk. But already daylight is growing
dim. I made up my mind to reach Tiberias,
and, in fact, now we have come so close all are
anxious to press on, but we had a very rough
ride, and at last had to abandon our steeds, and
then, after arrival, had immense difficulty in
getting our tents pitched in a suitable spot.
" Sunday^ i/\th. — Slumbers were during the
night slightly shaken by the piety of the sisters
in the Roman Catholic Convent. A huge bell
reminded them of the hours, and about four a.m.
Above Tiberias. 89
clanged all sleep away, so that, personally,
I did not find myself so refreshed as I should
have been. We had hoped to have camped in
the usual spot, so near to the banks of the lake
that in the morning you dash from your tent
and drop into the sweetly fresh waters of the
lake, but that special plot of ground had been
sown with corn ; and so in the hours of dark-
ness we had searched for a hap-hazard plot,
and lighted on a most picturesque nook on the
hill to the north, overlooking the town and
lake. From here one could enjoy the whole
panorama in its various aspects of sunrise and
sunset, and the lights and shades of bright sun-
shine, and, as we hoped, also a raging storm. I
don't think I shall compare the little sea with
any other I have visited. It has a beauty of its
own, though its shores are so arid and treeless ;
but it is not so much that Nature has made
the place beautiful, but the fact that here, on
every side, the great Master wrought so many
of his miracles both bv land and sea. Where-
ever the eye turns it feasts unweariedly, and
lingers and turns to feast again — it feasts on
the mystery of association, connected, not
90 Palestine journal.
with doubtful sites, but with the whole expanse
and with every nook and corner of hill and
dale. Everywhere the Master's feet have
pressed, except, indeed, the Herodian metro-
polis where we stand, for we never hear of
our Lord in Tiberias.
" Tiberias is, however, to-day one of the great
Jewish centres, one of their most revered cities,
the burying place of many of their great and
rabbles. It is quite a Jewish stronghold, and
that is as much as to say that it is in a most
filthy state. The only interesting things I
noticed there were the Herodian walls, which
remain very fairly intact, and the hot springs,
which are a mile or two without the city.
Mind, I do not say that there is absolutely
nothing else, we were in a frame of mind
which sought diligently, not for sights, but for
rest — and we found it.
^^ Monday^ i$th. — As soon as we could we
entered a boat — yes, there was an association
in that — and sailed across the lake to the
ingress of the Jordan and the coasts of
Bethsaida, and having lingered for a time, we
rowed around the northern shore to the now,
0)1 tlic Sea of Galilee. 91
I believe, almost imiversaily-received site of
Capernaum, and stood within the ruins of the
White Marble Synagogue. The few beautiful
fragments that remain — stones that echoed to
the voice of Jesus — are in great danger of
bein<T destroyed by the wretched Arabs who
linger near the spot, breaking off bits to sell
to passers-by. Well could we have tarried
here, but back towards the other Bethsaida,
where the cast net was thrown, and the fishes
caught and broiled on embers by the water
side. Then Magdala, its coasts crowned by a
low bluff, perhaps the most striking spot on
the whole lake, especially if you see it as we did,
lighted with a golden glory by the western
sun. And then ? — why mar the beauty of the
day with the bitter question of backsheesh?
No, it is beyond being marred ; and having
spent a few hours in a mystical mood in the
ages gone by, and having grasped histories and
scenes as we never grasped them before, we
will not let them go and suddenly return to
our dismal day, but just for once, even selfishly
at the expense of those who follow after us,
we will give the men the backsheesh they
()2 Palestine jfoiir^iaL
demand, and return to our tents in peace and
thankfulness. This has been one of the most
interesting days I ever spent.
" Tuesday^ December i6th. — We cannot
leave the lake behind, though tear ourselves
away we must. We make our w^ay past the
two ruined forts, to the foot of Tabor. The
ascent, which has been very abrupt for horses,
is being improved by a broad road now in
construction, which is to lead to the two mon-
asteries which crown the summit— wTetched
modern structures tacked on to the more
ancient crusaders' buildings, which to one who,
like myself, revels in architecture, are of
the very deepest interest.
" Apart from association with the Trans-
figuration, the view from the summit is more
than worth the climb. Here, as elsewhere,
one is amazed to find how the sacred scenes of
the Holy Land lie in a nut-shell. There is
no difficulty in understanding how the un-
dimmed eye of Moses beheld the whole of that
then bright land, for wherever one climbs,
Pisgah views, so to speak, are obtained. I
need not run over what we could see, it were
View from Tabor. 93
briefer to say what we could not see. The
immediate surroundings, battle-ridden Esdra-
elon, threaded by "that ancient river Kishon,"
were enough to hold our eyes for longer time
than we could allow for a survey of the whole.
N jem had the refectory of the Roman Catholic
Monastery placed at his disposal, and had
brightened the foreground by a display of well-
filled plates and dishes. The lay brother who
served us would receive no open remuneration,
so, after the fashion of Haroun al Raschid, we
deposited a donation beneath the cloth, to be
revealed to his wondering eye when the
remains of the repast was removed. I hope
the good man kept every penny of it for his
own little comforts.
" From the heights of Tabor, Nazareth was
soon reached. I am inclined to think that from
almost any point the view of the modern town
is the most striking of anything of the kind we
saw, excepting the Holy City ; but it is so
modern and modernised, and such a whited
sepulchre, so bright without, so filthy within,
that hallowed associations seemed to fly away.
What remained were almost blotted out from
94 Palestine J-oiiniat.
our mind when three sites for the Hill of Preci-
pitation — the brow, mark you, on which the
ancient city was built — were pointed out. What
do you argue from that ? Why, that next to
nothing as to the actual site of the little village
is now known. Only around the ancient foun-
tain, which has gently flowed on for ages, seemed
to linger some traces of the Divine footprints.
Very similar in His day, and at that very spot,
must have been the scene that we witnessed.
There, village maidens still vie with one another ;
there, still rise the joyous shouts of children
at play ; but to myself everything else seemed
lost and gone. Not that we could forget, when
we had escaped from the modern town, and
could shake off" all connections with Romans,
Greeks, and Protestants, that it was amongst
these lovely hills and dales, and on the heights
around, that so much of His life was spent.
Here He increased in favour with God and
man. Here was the school-yard of the Boy
Christ. It was this spot which the Father
chose for the early education of the Son of Man.
" Wed]iesday, December ijth. — One of those
April days in the life of a bishop when one
Dr. Vartan s Hospital. 95
hour seems filled with joy of the sunshine and
the next is black as a cloud. Our first visit
was to Dr. Vartan's hospital, which still
remains in an unfinished state on account of
the various hindrances put in its way by the
Turkish authorities. It is dismal to think how
much philanthropic work they stop merely
through an ignorant jealousy. In the mean-
time, Dr. V. is surrounding the fine property
with a wall, and carrying on dispensing work
in the town. Then, following round the hills,
we came to the Nazareth schools, which occupy
the thoughts and prayers of so many excellent
English ladies. Here, in spite of changes
which had made the work very uphill, I w^as
more than pleased with what was being done,
and with the fine pile of buildings. And now
a little recreation while we climb above to the
Neby Ishmael, and enjoy the magnificent
prospect. A spot, tradition says, and we can
easily believe it, dear to the Master. Here He
would have a panorama of the fields of His
future labours, and here He w^ould behold
many of those spots sacred by association with
the history of His people Israel.
96 Palestine jfoiirnaL
" Then a descent — a very descensus Avcrni
— into the filthy streets ; and after a few wind-
ings — and the fewer the better — we found our-
selves in the C.M.S. Boys' School. There are a
grand number of scholars, and their replies are
very able. The schoolmaster impressed us
with his ability as a master, whatever he may
be in other respects. We now led away dear
old H., the C.M.S. missionary, for an hour or
two's quiet and a meal in the tent. Quiet, did
I say? I found, first, N'jem in a clamorous
state of excitement. One of his men, and the
man who carried our bedding on his mule — he
need not have told us that — had undoubtedly
developed small-pox. Secondly, an old man
persistingly trying to sell some coins, and
refused to be driven away. Thirdly, more
clamorous than all, a Jesuit priest anxious to
change his religion. We received the latter
with great caution, and found him to be a
Hungarian, who for some time had been work-
ing under the Bishop of Portsmouth. By a
little skilful manipulation we discovered that
the good brethren of his persuasion, though not
of his order here, had treated him to but pilgrim
Wantmg to CJiangc his Religion. 97
fare ; and, by a little more beating about the
bush, we elicited that he was exceedingly
anxious to visit the Holy City and had no
money. Loud was his abuse of his religion
and all connected with it, but here he
stopped ; so, while I examined into the
small-pox case, which was also very pressing.
I got H. to put him through a cross-
examination in his vernacular German.
Meanwhile, N'jem, who had put him through
his facings as to what he wanted with
me, for he had waited my return no small
time, had come to the conclusion he wanted
a wife, and told him so. We decided to
offer him a five-franc piece, which he
instantly flung down in disgust, and stalked
off asking if he was a common beggar, and,
as he took his departure, a murmur of a
distant anathema, or something like it,
smote our ears. H. naively said, If you had
made it five pounds you would have had
his blessinc:.
-' We now proceeded to the neat httle C.M.S.
Church, and robed for the Confirmation. My
address was interpreted by the Rev. O. Nasir,
98 Palestine Journal.
the native curate of Nazareth. The number
was large. To show the unsettled state of
episcopal administration in the Holy Land,
there had been no Confirmation for thirteen
years. A very German feast followed, as dear
old H., during his many years in English ser-
vice, has lost little of his nationality, and now
we said to ourselves, this heavy day is to close
with the bright little gathering at his house.
But not so : when we returned to the tent, a
deputation waited upon us begging me to
come to the house of one of the leading Pro-
testants, a large gathering having assembled
to interview me. Not liking to refuse I went,
only to hear — though it was better I should
hear it — a bitter tale of faction and wrath
within that little community. Till the early
hours of morning we tarried, trying to give
the best advice, and to pour oil on troubled
waters.
" Thursday^ December iWi. — Early next
morning I was astir again, for two pleasant
little pieces of work had had to be omitted
through absolute want of time, so, before
mounting horse, I inspected the Girls' and
A Blind Infant. 99
Infants' School, and fell desperately in love
with a dear little blind infant. God, who makes
the dumb and deaf, the seeing and the blind,
lighten that life with His Light !
" A large cavalcade followed us, but I had
more especially to occupy my time as we
ascended the mountain pass between Nazareth
and the plain of Esdraelon with entering into
the conversation of the past night, and telling
H. what had been done and said, for I could con-
sent to nothing secret, or that had the shadow
of underhandedness about it. In the plain we
were treated to a display of horsemanship.
The springs of Kishon, now at this time of the
year dry, Nain, Endor, Shunem, and the moun-
tains of Gilboa were passed on the left hand ;
while to the right rose the ridges of Carmel.
Then the utter ruin of Jezreel, finely situate
on the spur of a hill commanding views on all
sides, and away past Gideon's well and Beth-
shan to the Jordan, from the other side of
which (Ramoth Gilead) came Jehu furiously
driving his chariot, his approach becoming
visible soon after crossing the river. Here we
made our midday halt, and were astonished at
lOO Palestine Journal.
the immense number of cisterns which pierced
the rocks on every side, and which made walk-
ing ahnost dangerous. Here, too, we met the
only traveller, excepting Mr. S., whom we
encountered during the whole journey (I ex-
cept priests and pilgrims), a Frenchman
travelling as you might expect a Frenchman to
travel : Hessian boots, holsters, cartridge belt,
and the tricolour proudly floating on his tent.
We exchanged civiHties and passed on. Jenin
was our halting place for the night — an extra-
ordinary change from the country through
which we had passed. In its present condition
a perfect garden of fruit trees ; and we camped,
I think I may say for the first time, in a shel-
tered grove of olives and figs. The native
doctor I found to be brother to the promising
young schoolmaster in the Hauran. He joined
us at our evening meal, and confirmed of his
own accord much that I heard yesterday
in Nazareth, which makes me the more re-
solved to bring these matters before the
CM. Committee.-
^^ Friday^ December ic)th. — I find a great
change in the vegetation from this point, and
School at Nablotis. lOi
the number of fine olive groves is especially
noticeable. . . . Away in the far distance
could be seen Cesarea across the plain of
Sharon, and soon the picturesque ruins of the
ancient capital came in view. They were more
than worth the detour that we made, and tell
an eloquent tale of the princely magnificence
of Herod the Great, for most of the present
remains and the fine colonnade date from his
time. In the afternoon three weary and be-
travelled horsemen presented themselves at
the door of the C.M.S. School in Nablous, the
ancient Shechem. ' The children have gone
to their homes. Master has finished for the day.
You can see nothing at this time.' 'Ah well,
I am disappointed, and must move on first
thing to-morrow. Is the missionary about ? '
' He is out for a walk, will be here shortlv.
Any news of the Bishop's, coming this way?'
' Well — yes — hm — ha — yes. I did not tell you
that this is the Bishop.' In a marvellously
short time schoolmaster, scholars, and mis-
sionary were all on the spot, and I found in
one of the most bigoted Mohammedan towns
in the land a very flourishing school and work,
I02 Palestine journal.
and I took them as may be perceived quite at
a disadvantage. There ought to have been a
Confirmation here, but owing to the most
serious illness of Mr. Hall, the able Secretary
of the C.M.S. Mission, matters had all gone
adrift, I made one or two suggestions, one of
which was to meet me in about ten days'
time at Jaffa, which is within a day's ride, but
matters could not be arranged.
*' We had arrived unwittingly on the right
day, for it was the commencement of the
Samaritan Sabbath, and after inspecting their
ancient copy of the Pentateuch, and having
some conversation with the High Priest, we
were invited to be present at their service,
which consisted in a monotonous recital of
prayers and portions of Pentateuch, accom-
panied by various prostrations always in one
direction, I think towards their ruined temple
on Gerizim ; for although they had their
sacred books and shrine in front of them, I
especially noticed that these were placed in
the angle of the synagogue or room (it was
nothing more) that pointed that way, and that
the congregation, led by their priests, knelt all
A Talk about Africa. J 03
of them in the same direction, out of square
with the walls of the chamber.
"Nablous itself has a very ancient and Eastern
appearance ; the streets, which are extra filthy,
tunnel under the houses, and are dark and
stifling. The inhabitants are, as I have said,
most bigoted ; not long ago, Mr. Falscheer the
missionary was shot at, or rather, his horse was
shot under him. Having dropped in so unex-
pectedly, we were the entertainers and gave
the dinner ; in fact, this was generally the case,
for N'jem's arrangements were so excellent
that a baronial feast was produced on the
shortest notice. Dinner, however, having had
justice duly done to it, we adjourned to larger
quarters, and a reception of the elders of the
place was held in my honour. After I had
heard their difficulties and encouragements
they drifted the conversation into an African
groove, and were intensely interested in hearing
about our special doings. Thus the hours ot
evening unwittingly stole away, and as I par-
ticularly wanted to keep the feast at Jerusalem,
fresh horses and fast had been ordered for
Connor and myself, and we decided to leave
I04 Palestine journal.
N'jem and his tents in the charge of the
chaplain and to proceed before daylight to-
wards the Holv Citv."
CHAPTER V.
(DECEMBER 20th— 24th).
" Here all is dust. After the destruction of the city, the whole
earth blossoms from its ruins ; but here there is no verdure, no
blossom, only a bitter fruit — sorrow. Look for no joy here, either
from men or from mountains.'' — Farrar, From Dr. Frank!.
" Let him that wishes to have neither ajt/om haze (' the pleasures of
this life '), nor aukni haho (' those of the life to come '), live at
Jerusalem.' ' — Ibid.
^^Sattwday, December 20th. — Having heard no
good thing of the Shechemites, it was not plea-
sant to have the short time we had allotted to
sleep broken by gun-shots and bullets whist-
ling in the air not far from the tent, followed
by the most piercing shrieks as of women being
murdered. We heard afterwards that it was a
sheep-stealing case. Before daylight C. and I
were in the saddle, and were presently joined
by Mr. F., who had decided to see us on our
way. Despite a very long and rough ride,
Ebal, Gerizim, Jotham's Pulpit, and above all,
the well ft Sychar must be inspected. Little or
nothing remains of the sacred spot, but some
io6 Palestine journal.
foundations of crusaders' ruins. It is, perhaps,
part of the same well that is pointed out — one
likes to think it is, nor does there seem much
occasion to doubt. Anyhow, the locality is
the same, and one could picture the whole
scene with a feeling that the mind-painted
picture at least approached to the great original.
F. has bidden farewell, and soon C. falls sick,
and the faint hopes of seeing Jerusalem to-day
have almost disappeared. Shiloh is passed ;
steep hills are climbed ; rough valleys are
descended ; we reach a very weird spot where
Arab attacks are reputed to be made, but we
pass on unscathed, and find ourselves sitting
near a bright spring taking a little well-earned
rest at Bethel. The chief object of interest there
appears to be an enormous water-tank. And
now the domes of the Holy City come in sight,
and with thrilling emotions we move on, enter-
ing a little into the spirit of the Songs of Degrees.
Beer is left behind, and Gibeon. Neby Sam-
weel on its lofty eminence has long been in
view ; but there is a black figure on horseback,
and yet another, and in a short time I have
grasped my old college companion, my brother
The Doines of the Holy City. 107
in African toil, my dear friend Wilson, by the
hand. Others are behind, our cavalcade has
considerably increased, and we forget our
fatigue and the ridges on the saddle, which
but half-an-hour before we could have de-
scribed with far greater accuracy than the
road we had lately passed. We reached the
Holy City in triumph, and found we were to
lodge with Wilson in the Preparandi School,
on the hill of Zion. Despite the late hour,
callers came, and arrangements had imme-
diately to be made for the morrow.
^^ Sunday, December 21st. — I am not going to
say very much about Jerusalem, Jerusalem
society, or Jerusalem work. The prophets
always found that they got stoned when they
sojourned there. Had I found that things had
been made pleasant and comfortable for me,
I might have been led seriously to consider
whether I was not one of the false prophets,
and whether my mission was not rather for ill
than for good ; but in the midst of the party
distractions, we found shelter in the dear
Preparandi School under Wilson's wing. Per-
haps if the baby — but never mind. We found
io8 Palestine Journal.
ourselves revelling in a hundred recollections
of the past, and had much to say about the
present — and future, too, all unknown. I had
but a light Sunday, preaching at the Jews'
Church in the morning and the C.M.S. in the
afternoon, being present at the Jews' Church
again in the evening. Saddened by the sight of
the tombs of the three bishops ; — but why
should I be sad ? Charmed to an intense degree
by a stroll down the valley of Hinnom and Jehos-
haphat, past the beautiful tombs of Zechariah,
James, and Absolom ; and I still think, of all
spots within and without the city, this is the
one that charms me most — viz., to stand
opposite these tombs, gazing across the Brook
Kedron, on the Mount of Olives. And near the
same spot to grub amongst the ash-heaps that
fill the valley of Hinnom, and secure little
treasures of ancient pottery, was my most
delightful employment. My good friends, when
we had spare time, would ask me, ' Where
will you go ? What do you want to see ? '
My answer invariably would be, ' The ash-
heaps ! ' They were exceedingly cruel to me,
for it was very seldom I was allowed the treat ;
The Ash Heaps. 109
there was almost always on such occasions
some particular sight I must see.
^^ Monday^ December 22nd. — But where had
my chaplain been all this time ?- I left him at
Nablous, he spent Sunday at Bethel, and to-day-
he is making his way past Ai to Jericho, where
I am to join him. The ride is not a long one,
and as holidays commence almost directly, I
filled up the morning by inspecting the Jews'
Society Boys' and Girls' Schools and buildings,
the C.M.S. Girls' School and Preparandi Col-
lege. Amongst the catch questions I some-
times ask — I am not fond of catch questions as
a rule — is this, ' Did the shepherds of Beth-
lehem worship the Child Jesus ? ' I receiyed
from a yery little boy a perfect answer which
intensely delighted me, ' We are not told so.'
"Bidding a short farewell to our friends,
Connor and I mounted fresh horses and
climbed the Mount of Oliyes, and it is as you
mount here that you get the finest yiew of the
Holy City, completely oyerlooking it. It is
curious that while in ancient warfare the situa-
tion of Jerusalem was so wondrously strong, in
modern warfare it would be the y^y reyerse,
no Palestine y^ounial.
and if armies gather once more around it they
will be able to pour in shot and shell from
distant heights on every side. I refused the
tomb of Lazarus, at Bethany ; such sights are
not worth the delay, better far to linger on the
verv paths that Divine feet must necessarily
have often trod. ^lay I thus too tread in the
spiritual track and follow after Him. In these
regions the blackmail system is still in full
force, and there are still plenty of robbers
waiting for those who travel from Jerusalem
to Jericho. Travellers, however, are unneces-
sarily terrified by exaggerated tales in order
that thev mav be frightened into taking an
escort of soldiers, or rather, mounted Arabs,
and the pay for their unnecessary services in
reality inflicts blackmail upon all who pass that
way.
'' On the way we passed an enormous Circas-
sian caravan travelling with their goods from
very distant parts. It was an interesting sight,
and one to be remembered ; even more inter-
esting was a lost sheep which cried pitifully
and seemed at once to touch a chord in all our
hearts. One of the soldiers picked it up in his
Jericho. 1 1 1
arms, for it was too faint to walk, and carried
it some distance to another shepherd who
recognised it by its mark, and promised to
restore it to its owner. About half way to
Jericho the scenery becomes almost grand ;
one deep valley is really quite so, and is
unique of its kind, at least so far as my expe-
rience goes in deep tufa cuttings. Presently
the broad Jordan valley came into view, and by
a rapid descent we reached Er-Riha, a far
pleasanter camping-place than Jericho itself.
There we found the chaplain safely housed in
the tent and a repast ready ; but before we sat
down a furious fight broke out amongst the
men, and, of all people in the world, the
Bishop was seen to rush in, knock one man on
the head and send him in one direction, and
seize hold of the other and thrust him aside
like a wisp of straw, but then he had had a
little training in such kind of scenes in Africa.
^^ Tuesday, December 2yd. — From Er-Riha
we passed over to Jericho, the city of no palm
trees, and thence on to the fords of the
Jordan, another really beautiful and interesting
spot. The river, which is thick and muddy.
112 Palestine y^otirnal.
flows through a lovely grove of tamarisk trees,
and some prettily-stratified tufa cliffs. Thence
we followed on to the Dead Sea, How many
times have I gazed wistfully at the map and
longed to stand on the shore of the Dead Sea !
I found it hard to realise that one of my fond
wishes (and fond I can scarce tell why) had at
length been gratified. But there it was,
desolate to a degree : here the bitter, clear
water; here the lumps of bitumen and the
pickled fish brought down by the fresh water
of the Jordan. I stripped, put in one foot,
then another ; it was cold — all water is cold on
December 23rd in northern latitudes — I pressed
on to the knees ; I expected peculiar sensa-
sions, but expected in vain ; even to the chin
the waters rose, and I could still keep my feet
to the ground. It was not easy to detect the
difference between this and ordinary salt water
until indeed we tried to get dry, and then we
found that we had suddenly become like Lot's
wife. Intense irritation followed, and it took
some days of washing before we got really rid
of the unpleasant effects. Njem told me that
had we bathed at the south end of the sea, we
The Dead Sea. 113
should have found its floating powers very
niuch greater ; the north end is much affected
by the large amount of fresh water poured in
by the Jordan. We followed round the north-
east bank for some little distance, and then began
to climb towards Mar Saba. Here Connor was
taken ill from the effects of the salt water, and
we were obliged to leave him in charge of the
two Arab soldiers to seek refuge in a shepherd's
camp, while we pressed on to our own tents
which had gone by another road. It soon
proved that N'jem was utterly lost, and
Baedeker's Guide, which had been most useful
to us, but a great bugbear to him, now rose
fully to the occasion, and I led the way in
triumph. At length, lighting upon some
Arabs, he preferred their advice to the book ;
and as the road now became dangerouslv
steep, and I had been almost precipitated over
a cliff, my horse falling wdth me in a fearful
place, I gave in, and the result was that we
got thoroughly lost and benighted. At last we
again came across an Arab camp, were shown
the Cherith valley, and soon found ourselves
in our tents at Mar Saba. Connor, for whom I
114 Palestine journal.
was most anxious, came in a short time after-
wards, having fairly recovered from his sick-
ness.
" Wednesday ^ December 24///. — Mar Saba, in
the Cherith gorge, built in and out of the
corners and crevices of stupendous rock, is very
fine. In some respects it may be spoken of as
a monastic Gibraltar. The monks have bored
and tunnelled into the rock, and again have
built battlements and turrets and filled every
practicable spot with their bastions, ramparts,
and buttresses, which they share equally with
the wild birds, here as tame as domestic
fowls. In Mar Saba we found the very realisa-
tion of oar ideal monastic retreat. The Greek
monks are also custodians of Mar Saba's date-
trees, the fruit of which is a specific against
barrenness. Our cook's wife being thus afflicted,
he took the opportunity of laying out a franc
on two dates, one of which he was to eat
himself, the other to give to his wife, and then
followed some very sanitary advice, which, we
could not help thinking, was a very shrewd
accompaniment to the sacred fruit, and far
more likely to be productive of result.
Monastery of Mar Sad a. 115
" Mounting the hills above the monastery and
obtaining some very striking views of the
Dead Sea and mountains of Moab behind us,
and the Frank mountain to our left, v^e soon
entered the sweet vales of Bethlehem, which
once rang with the joyous shouts of the reapers
of Boaz and re-echoed to the songs of the
sweet singer of Israel. Here David pastured
and fought for his flocks ; here, in that cave
to the left, tradition says the shepherds watched
by night — that great night of w^hich this is the
anniversary. We were soon encamped in a
magnificent spot overlooking the town and
commanding wide views^ on every side. The
town was thronged with pilgrims, chiefly
Roman Catholics, for this is their great festival.
Presently the Roman Patriarch entered the
town on horseback in purple robes, followed by
a long cavalcade of ecclesiastics, and preceded
by the various cavasses of the Roman Catholic
Consuls. The entry of the pro. tem. Anglican
Bishop of Jerusalem was not quite so demon-
strative.
" As to the reputed cave, many do not doubt
its authenticity, and both it and the church
ii6 Palestine journal.
built on it at so early a date are intensely
interesting ; I scarcely expected though that I
should find them so, especially on a day when
they were thronged with worshippers. But
it struck us, as it has and must strike every-
body else, both here in the Church of the
Nativity and of the Holy Sepulchre, as sad be-
yond measure to see Turkish sentinels standing
everywhere to keep the peace between Greeks
and Roman Catholics, and to prevent the free
fighting w^hich not unfrequently breaks out
between them. I spent several hours within
the church, and more than once visited the
cave, I paid a delightful quiet little visit to
Miss Jacombs, who keeps the small school
for ^irls, known as the Bethlehem Schools,
to which my wife was a subscriber even be-
fore we were married. We knocked at the
door in our riding costume, and asked to see
the lady of the house and the school ; we did
not give our names, nor were we asked. The
ladies receved us, ordered in afternoon tea, and
then gathered together their scholars. I exa-
mined them, and was charmed with their
thorough answers and the excellent punctua-
Miss ^acomhs' School. ' 117
tion of their reading ; there was a natural
manner and a readiness in reply that are so
often found lacking in schools. ' Tell them,
Mr. Connor,' I said, ' that the Bishop is
delighted with their answers,' and, as I said
this, my eye stole a furtive glance at the ladies,
who each gave a slightly convulsive jump, and
exchanged looks. It was unkind, you will say,
thus to take them unawares ; and my Chaplain
was right down angry with me, because he
thought he traced a mischievous twinkle in one
of my eyes ; but experience proves that if the
Bishop announces himself unexpectedly, every-
body — teachers and children — are thrown into
a flutter and become unnatural and excited,
and do not do themselves proper justice.
" As to-day is to be our last day of tent life
until we camp beside Afric's sunny fountains,
N'jem gave us our Christmas feast to-night — a
spread worthy of a prince. To conclude with,
Peter, our valet, brought in with much triumph
an extra sweetmeat beautifully served with
rich syrup. ' Whatever is this, Peter ; it looks
amazingly like a sausage?' 'Oh, no !' he said,
with protestation, ' it is not meat, it is a rich
ii8 Palestine your nal.
Damascus sweetmeat that N'jem has kept on
purpose for Christmas.' The Chaplain's eyes
sparkled, he has a sweet tooth, and the Bishop's
is not a sour one. I took a slice with confi-
dence, and basted it with the clarified syrup at
which our cook is especially clever. A new
dish this entirely to me. The Chaplain's eye
glowed like a firefly, and all watched intently
as the delicate morsel was raised to my mouth
in a silver spoon. 'Hamsir!' (' pig! ') I cried
in an excited voice, as I ejected a mouthful of
Bologna sausage and sugar from my mouth.
' Pig!' yelled the waiter in a shrill scream, as
he caught up the dish, rushed from the tent
and absolutely flung it at the cook's head.
' Pig!' shouted the man who was washing the
dishes, and fled in terror lest he should be ren-
dered unclean for to-morrow. 'Pig!' ex-
claimed N'jem, 'impossible!' as he hurried
into the tent, bringing a tin box which was
labelled indeed with the name of some sweet-
meat made in England, but into which un-
doubtedly a German sausage had been put.
Thus, tragically closed our Christmas dinner.
Immediately after we were wafted away to the
The Fatherland in Palestine. 119
Fatherland — the German sausage was surely a
prelude to it. Visiting the German pastor who
was busy entertaining his flock, we found the
good man presiding at a Christmas-tree, at the
foot of which, and around, were models of
German houses, water-mills, fountains which
Avere made to play — all so intensely German,
that I was back again to a Christmas-Day
which I spent years ago in Berlin. But, in
spite of all our mixed surroundings, the Roman
pomp and ceremony, the simple pastor, the
crowds surging in the narrow streets, we were
enabled, as we sang the shepherd's song in our
tent by the light of the moon, to realise that
we were come ' even unto Bethlehem.' "
CHAPTER VI.
(DECEMBER 25th— JANUARY 5th, 1888.)
" We have come, I know not how, to imagine that Heaven may be
gained 'in an easy chair,' and that crowns of victorious amaranth will
be dropped quite naturally on dozing brows. It is not so. It never can
be so. All Scripture is a protest against our thinking so." — Farkar,
S/. fames' Lectures.
" Christmas-Day. — I could not afford to set
apart this bright day to entire rest, it was not
to be expected that I should. Almost before
daylight we were in our saddles and on the way
to Jerusalem ; for while I was very anxious to
spend Christmas in Bethlehem, friends at
Jerusalem were equally anxious that I should
spend the day with them.
" We passed Rachel's tomb, and then a rock
where EHjah is supposed to have rested
and left the imprint of his body ; — by-the-
by, he must have been a much bigger man
than Goliath. Some Russian pilgrims, who
had arrived before us, bade us dismount and
kiss the ground, but this request I saw no
Ordination of Five Deacons. 121
occasion whatever to comply with, although I
hope I am always unwilling to violate the feel-
ings of anybody.
" We spent a quiet day with the Wilson
family, attending service at the Jews' Church,
privately. To-morrow begins the examination
of candidates for Ordination, and their papers
have already been handed in to me.
" December 26th and2^th. — During the next
two days we were very busy. The history ot
each of the five candidates we had to examine
was full of interest. My own heart-searchings
and the anxiety of this my first Ordination,
and the intense desire which possessed me to
do right under most difficult circumstances, I
can scarcely write about. When I could snatch
a few minutes, Wilson was always ready to re-
fresh me by leading me off to som.e interesting
spot, generally not one of my ash-heaps. Thus
the tombs of the kings and the Church of the
Sepulchre, and what our Palestine explorers
suppose to be Calvary, were all visited. I
dare say my next good friend will tell me that
I did not see the very most interesting and
important thing in Jerusalem. That is always
122 Palestine journal.
the way. Anyhow, my guides were most care-
ful to show me almost every nook and corner.
" On Friday we went to see the Jews' wailing
place. The wailing struck me as a hollow sham.
There may have been mourning hearts. The
eye of God alone could see. They have cause.
Poor things, I could wail for them! Strangers,
outcasts, despised and oppressed in their own
city, they well might wail. Next to the
Hinnom ash-heaps the few remaining stones
of Solomon's building rivetted my attention.
Their enormous size — I measured one thirty-
five feet long, seven feet high, and of about the
same thickness — is most astonishing. They
are simple oblongs, ornamented only by the
'Jewish bevel,' yet there is an exquisite
beauty in their perfect symmetry. They fit
one upon the other with an accuracy that is
wonderful.
"We were some time in deciding where
the Ordination should be held. The claims of
both ' Jew ' and ' Gentile ' were strong. The
Jews' Church was the best. It has always been
the Pro-Cathedral, and my mind was most
towards it. I, however, decided in favour of
Ordination and Confirmation. 123
the C.M.S. Church of St. Paul, since the
C.M.S. had in the first place invited me out ex-
pressly to ordain their candidates, while the
others, who were connected with the Jews'
Society, had been added to my list afterwards.
On Saturday evening, therefore, we met in St.
Paul's, and I addressed the candidates and
those connected with the work. Then a state
reception was given by Wilson, at which all
Jerusalem was supposed to be present, and I
was asked to give an account of my travels and
to describe my diocese. Wilson himself was
far more fit to undertake this, but he sternly
declined, remarking that plenty of oppor-
tunities would present themselves for him to
descant upon Africa, so I did my best.
" Sunday^ December 2^th. — ' Beginning at
Jerusalem ' — yes, it was to me a happy omen
that I should have been permitted to hold my
first Ordination there in the Holy City. How
humblv fateful I feel that I have entered
J o
into so deep an association with the Apostles
of our Lord, and how earnestly do I pray that
those upon whom my unworthy hands have
been laid may be true followers of the first
124 Palestine JoiirnaL,
Deacons upon whom hands were laid in
Jerusalem.
" In the evening we assembled in Christ
Church, and I held a Confirmation Here,
again, a deeply-interesting tale might be told
of some of the candidates, who were all of
them connected with the work of the
Jews' Society in the Holy Land. The cere-
mony was made additionally striking by the
presence of the newly-ordained deacons, who
took part in the Service. This day also has
been one of the most interesting in my life.
^''Monday, December 2<^tli. — Pleasure is
harder than work ! So my grandfather used
to say, and would impress upon us that it
made old clothes and old bones. How-
ever, in spite of all the wisdom of the
ancients, we determined to-day to throw off
the yoke and make the most of our last day
in Jerusalem.
" The American Consul occupied the early
hours of the morning by kindly showing us his
collection of Palestinian birds, which is fast
assuming quite important proportions. We
were able to discourse upon not a few of them,
Inspection of the Mosque of Omar. 125
some of which had not yet been named ; as an
additional object of interest he had that morn-
ing had a fresh-killed wolverine brought in,
the very counterpart of which I killed after-
wards in Ukamba,
" I was then conducted in state to the Mosque
of Omar, with a large party of friends, by
Mr. Schick, the architect to the Mosque, and
the chief sheikh, and was shown everything
that it is permitted to anybody to see. Mr.
Schick made the visit especially interesting,
for he not only has access to all parts, but he
has made them his special study ; and after-
wards he took us to his house to see the
models he has made of the three buildings,
Solomon's Temple, Herod's Temple, and the
Mosque and its buildings as it now stands — an
exquisite work of art, and showing extraordinary
insight into all that is known of past and
present. I scarce like to say which delighted
me most, whether the colourings in the dome
of the rock, or the massive approach by which
Solomon went up to the house of the Lord.
When the Queen of Sheba had seen all
Solomon's wisdom and the house that he had
126 Palestine jfoiirnal.
built . . . and, finally, ' his ascent by
which he went up into the house of the Lord/
there was no more spirit in her ; and I for one
do not wonder at it.
" Then again there are the underground
stables, and the Mosque of Omar proper,
perhaps the least interesting part of the whole
enclosure. The chief sheikh was verv amusins^
with a few grotesque sentences of English he
had picked up ; a little tiresome too at times,
as ' Come this way, if you please ' was a large
part of his vocabulary, and was exercised upon
us directly Mr. Schick began a description
that left him out in the cold. So at last we
abandoned the ladies to the sheikh's care, and
I am shocked to say he was not in any way
backward ; while one or two of the choicer
spirits entered deep into all that was before
them, and many hours of the day silently stole
away. What remained was spent in a round
of visits, running from one house to another,
for there was not time to walk, and the day
concluded with a Christmas feast given at the
Jews' Mechanic Institution, at which I had to
speak. No, it did not conclude, for when I
A Talk in the Dormitory. 127
returned to the College the young men, who
by-the-by had retired to their beds, sent word
they wanted me ; so, having made a throne of
a bed whose occupant had gone into the
country for Christmas, they kept me for a
while answering and asking questions, and
listening with deep interest to some of their
Eastern anecdotes.
^^ Tuesday, December 30///. — Another parting
wrench as I said farewell to Wilson, for we
have known each other long, having, as I have
said, been at college together, and our African
experiences having brought us very close
together.
"A carriage, no, a char-a-banc, three seats
one behind the other, with insufficient room to
sit straight, and two squeezed in to whom the
bargain had not extended. N'jem, therefore,
retired to await another carriage that would
for certain have only two ladies in it, and
having nearly played us out, saw no harm in
picking up an odd franc or two by a little out-
side civility ; and all I say is I hope he did,
for, though growing old (he fights against it
with hair-dye and a padded great-coat), he is a
128 Palestine jfo^irnal.
splendid dragoman, and, curiously enough, was
dragoman to old R., and to B., whose book
has been so useful to us. N'jem, in the
morning, astride a very pretty little palfrey
(he took care to be well mounted, whatever we
were), in Greek gaiters, richly-embroidered
great-coat, and crowned with the best silken
Arab head-gear that gold could purchase, to
say nothing of the jet-black moustache fiercely
twirled, shone forth (N'jem means star) as a
bright constellation, Arcturus in Bootes, or
at least in gaiters. But N'jem in his night-cap,
after a shower of rain had streaked his face
with the dye and taken the curl from his
moustache, while gaiters and coat were hung
across a clothes-line to dry, was more like the
Pleiades in a foggy night.
We squeezed ourselves into the char-a-banc
with sad hearts as we bade Wilson and the
interesting students of the Preparandi fare-
well, and soon we had our last views of the
Holy City from the only remaining side from
whence we had not yet beheld it. ' Glorious
things of thee are spoken, Zion, city of our
King.' Beautiful, sadly beautiful in deepest
Dear til of Mosses. 129
degradation, and yet, we believe, to be the
joy of the whole earth.
" I was told on all sides I should be disap-
pointed with what I saw, and so, thanks to such
preparation, I met with no disappointments,
except in the cryptogamic world, and this I had
been fully prepared for too, though I could
scarcely believe that I should find such utter
barrenness. Fortunately for me, my interest in
the Holv Land was not tightly pinned to
sites. I could draw a charm out of Nazareth,
for instance, without the further association
which we might have had, could we have
identified one of those three Hills of Precipita-
tion. I could carry away a little store of
sweet recollections from Bethlehem without
necessarily believing or disbelieving in the
cave which is shown as the stable. The ficti-
tious surroundings did not prevent me from
full enjoyment of what undoubtedly still exists.
Turks and extortion would be better out of
the way, but one can survive them, and, like a
busy chick, scratch away the dirt and pick up
the grain.
" My three regrets are Hebron, Banias, and
K
130 Palestine Joiirnal.
Baalbek, but something should be left to
supply a collation, however cold, for hope to
feed upon.
" Hold on, Chaplain ! I see a drop in the
road at least a foot deep, and we are going at
a sharp spin down this hill. Too late ! the
Chaplain's head has come into collision wath the
waggon-frames that shelter us from the sun.
Oh, what a rough road this, the only other
road, besides the Lebanon-Damascus, that the
country possesses ! Oftentimes it paid us to
leave it altogether and drive across the open
fields which now lie fallow. One's liver which
had run a little danger of getting overgrown
from Jerusalem plum-puddings and the other
dainties of Christmas cheer, was now reduced,
jolted down indeed to proper dimensions ; and
w^e all agreed, though two of us were not fond
of the saddle, that it was arm-chair work to
this. However, miles flew by. Emmaus was
passed — the midday rest for the horses ; and at
last Ramleh, where I delayed for a little to
inspect the C.M.S. Schools, and where the
scholars made me a present of a blue silken
scarf of their own w^ork ; then the orange-
Tlic Orange -Groves of Joppa. 131
groves of Joppa — acres laden with the fresh
fruit ; and finally the hotel. Why, instead
of being an infliction, an hotel is quite a
treat in Palestine ; we have not entered one
since Damascus. Hearing that a boat was
immediately starting northwards we made a
dash and got off, Connor to be welcomed home
by his friends as the Reverend. I would pay
a parting eulogy to his excellence both as a
man and a fellow-traveller ; for not only is he
a capital Arabic scholar, never appearing to
be at a loss for a word, but he is stored with
rich information and folk-lore which wiled
away many an otherwise dreary hour on the
road, and took many uncomfortable ridges out
of mv saddle. Then we called at the house of
one called Simon a Tanner — whether Simon's
or not the guide books must determine, but a
fragment, and an interesting fragment, of the
ancient city it appears to be. Afterwards
we visited the able Secretary of the Society,
whom we found still very ill and weak —
he would see us, though I felt that he ought
not ; it was however almost unavoidable.
" Last day of Old Year. I have no oppor-
132 Palestine journal.
tunity here* of seeing where I was and what I
was doing at the beginning of the year, but I
expect I was not idle, at all events I found
plenty to do to-day. It has been a wonderful
year in my history. It has been a year of much
travel and moving about. I have traversed, if I
mistake not, nearly 15,000 miles, and I think
never got through more work in any year of
my life. At Jaffa, the first thing I inspected
Mr. Hall's Schools, and then, after seeing
the town and its surroundings — it is a pretty
spot — and most interesting market, we mounted
horse and went on to Lydda. We ought to be
in pretty good training after being for a month
nearly every day and all day in the saddle, but
the horse I picked up here quite beat me from
first to last; I could not get into its pace
except in a short gallop after some gazelles on
the plains of Sharon. If the rose of Sharon is
the scarlet anemone (it is the autumn crocus
according to R.V.) it is out very beautifully
just at the present time, and seems constantly
inviting me to dismount and pluck it. But we
were late in starting, and so had to go at a
* Written somewhere in Masai-Land or U-Soga.
Miss Arnotfs School. 133
rapid pace and give as little time as they
would allow us to the place itself. We tried to
keep ourselves incognito, but could not be hid,
as it was known we were in the neighbourhood.
Hurrying back we lost our way, or took a
long 'short cut,' got benighted, had to swallow
down our dinner in a mouthful, so to speak,
and then hurry away through the wearying
sand — it is about fourteen inches deep in the
streets — and arrive breathless and wet through
at the little church, where we addressed a good
congregation without an interpreter being
necessary, and thus closed the Old Year.
''''J^amiary Jsf, 1885. — One trembles on the
threshold, it seems fraught with such great
difSculty and dangers, but
' Peace, perfect peace, the future all unknown :
Jesus we know, and He is on the throne.'
Up early to inspect Miss Mangan's dispensary
work, and to see the patients assemble at
prayers. Then I called on Mr. Hall and took
leave of him, and went on to Miss Arnott's
School, which, excepting the Bethlehem School
which is very much smaller, bears the palm
from any that I saw, and leaves a most
134 Palestine jfoiunial.
delightful recollection as the last school I
inspected in the Holy Land. It was more
than charming, deeply touching to me, to hear
them sing, in English, ' What will poor robin
do then, poor thing?' I nearly dissolved in a
flood, it brought back so forcibly, ' Home,
sweet home,' and the dear little ones there.
And so farewell to Canaan's shore. The
Austrian Lloyd was waiting to hurry us away —
hurry, did I say, there was very little of that
about it ; we were told to be off punctually at
two, and I think it was at all events after our
arrival that they discovered that there was
a fresh batch of cargo — chiefly cows, which
they cruelly hauled up by their horns, and
the hornless ones by their fore-legs. The
boat was crowded with deck passengers, and
greater part of the first-class quarters were
given over to their use. However, after
seeing the sun set over against the picturesque
city, and the moon rise behind it — who shall
say the delay was not worth that ? — we took our
departure, and woke up to find ourselves
nearing Port Said.
^^ Saturday^ jfaniiary 2nd. — Great was our
Port Said. 135
horror to be politely informed that, owing to
the large amount of extra cargo, the steamer
must delay until to-morrow, Saturday evening,
instead of starting this afternoon as advertised.
Then came a deep searching and examination
into what we should gain and lose by starting
at twelve at night for Cairo, arriving there late
Saturday evening after a wearying journey. I
came to the conclusion that our bargain would
be worth next to nothing, and we should lose
a peep at Alexandria, which I greatly wanted,
before it had recovered itself from the effects
of the siege.
" Port Said seemed more vile than ever.
Not only had they had a deal of rain which
made it filthy, but we had now lost the sense
of whatever little charm it ever possessed, on
account of its slight Eastern appearance which
arrests a new comer from the West, but only
disgusts a fresh arrival from the East by its
mongrel Orientalism ; and then again, knowing
every corner, every agent's house, every shop,
it was unendurable to be incessantly touted by
the most pertinacious of guides. We broke away
from the town and strolled on the sand flats of
136 Palestine jfournal.
the Mediterranean, only to find filth and gar-
bage instead of, as I hoped, pearly shells. We
fled to the canal, only to find ourselves gett-
ing wet feet in black mud, and in the midst
of worse filth than before ; and the country
upon which we happened in this direction
is poisonous, and tells a tale of terrible
mortality, at least, if my judgment is not
misguided. But it is a long lane that has no
turning, we did leave at last on Sunday morn-
ing, and found ourselves at daylight getting a
view of Damietta, then, presently, Aboukir
Bay, and soon were rivetting our attention on
Alexandria. We were fortunate in having on
board a fellow-passenger, a resident at Alex-
andria, Mr. C. N,, who was well acquainted
with the story of the siege ; so, as we slowly
steamed up to our moorings, he kindly dilated
on all the points of interest. This alone was
worth all our delay at Port Said. We were
fairly early in harbour, in fact in time to lodge
our eff"ects at the hotel, and join the congre-
gation in the handsome English church close
at hand in the Communion Service. Alex-
andria is, as regards its streets and general
Alexandria. 137
appearance, a slice of Paris cut off somewhere
about the Pare Monceau, and dabbed down
around a beautiful harbour ; but Port Said is
a sore offence in the eyes of Alexandria and
the Egyptian authorities ; and who would not
confess that it is disgusting to see that mis-
erable upstart now crippling the trade of this
fine historic city ?
"Deluges of rain fell in the afternoon and
rather thinned the evening congregation to
which I preached, but the small number was
atoned for bv their earnest attention. Mr. D.,
the chaplain, afterwards dined w^th us at the
hotel.
^^ Monday J J^annary ^th. — The very first
train, in spite of its slowness, and that it runs
upon one of the worst lines in the world, and
several other objections, carried us at last into
Cairo. Irrigation and ibises and the intense
fertility of the delta were the striking points
of the line, if you let alone a drunken Bright-
onian soldier, for whom, in spite of his dis-
gusting state, I felt a great liking for home's
sake. We had a mutual recognition with the
Ismailia station-master, who dined with us in
138 Palestine J-oiirnal.
his shirt sleeves, and has since been promoted
to a station on this line. And, on nearing
Cairo, at a small side station, to our intense
astonishment, I recognised the well-known
figure of W. E. Taylor, who I fondly imagined
had departed long since for Mombasa. His
delight in thus meeting us found vent in his
suddenly introducing me in Arabic to the
astonished station-master, who, in common
with myself, seemed unable to conceive any
possible reason for the introduction.
'' A thrill of delight — resting the eye un-
expectedly on the pyramid group. It far
exceeded my fondest expectation, for grown
old in travel, I take the sour side and expect
to be disappointed.
" By-and-by we found ourselves at the cele-
brated Shepherd's with the best part of the
day still before us. But business before
pleasure, so on to Dr. Klein's and to Miss Jane
Whatelev: thouo:h far be it from me to exclude
very great pleasure and interest from those
visits, especially from that to the strong-minded
lady who, in spite of all difficulties, has carried
on so large and successful a work in the
Cairo. 139
Egyptian capital. Then into a really luxurious
carriage, and to the magnificent mosque that
crowns the city, and the astonishing view of
the city and Upper Egypt from the various
stand-points around.
" It seems strange, in the midst of mosques,
minarets, and pyramids, to see the English
soldier mounted sentry and apparently master
of the situation. It was not Jemadari Abou
Shakahdi, or Daoud Pasha who gave leave for
me to inspect the fort, but Major of the
ist Sussex. ******"
CHAPTER VII.
THE LAST JOURNAL.
(AUGUST 1st— OCTOBER 29th, 1885.)
Through Masai-Land to Ngongoa-Bagas.
"A boundless continent
Dark, waste, and wild under the frown of night."
Milton.
"We are not visionaries. . . . Nor do those waste their
lives who waste themselves in striving to extend the Kingdom of God
on Earth. This is what life is for."
Prof. H. Drummond.
Bishop Hannington's work in Palestine was
finished. The serious work of his episcopate
was about to begin. He welcomed the fact,
and set his face gladly toward " dear Africa."
As has been described in his Life, he arrived
at Frere Town, after a rapid and weather-
favoured voyage, on January 24th, 1885, ^^d at
once took up the reins of government. We
must again refer our readers to the Life for
the manner in which he was able to set in
order the things that were wanting, and for
the various plans which he made for the
!J*55*3^ "-^f*"
r
*M...
Start from Rahai. 141
organisation of his vast diocese. An account
will there be found of his visit to Chagga and
the districts which lie between the coast and
Mount Kilima-njaro. The reasons are there
also fully set forth which induced him to
think that a shorter and healthier route to
U-Ganda might be found than that which had
hitherto been pursued through the deserts and
fever-haunted swamps of U-Gogo. He was
moreover fired with the holy ambition of opening
up Masai-Land, and establishing a station and
a shepherd somewhere in the midst of those
unruly flocks whose fine promise had strongly
attracted him.*
Accordingly he left Rabai on July 23rd
with a caravan of two hundred porters, and
accompanied by Mr. Jones, a native deacon
whom he had himself ordained, and to whose
* Had Bishop Hannington's journey been successful,
there are indications in his correspondence that he would
have endeavoured to push the outposts of the Church as
far as the Albert Nyanza. It is almost certain that, if he
had been spared, and if he had been able to keep the new
route open, he would not long have allowed Emin Pasha
to complain that he could not persuade missionaries to
come and labour in his Province.
142 The Last jf our rial.
journal the account of the march which is
given in the Life is largely indebted. He
reached Kavirondo, at the north-east corner of
the Victoria Nyanza, on October 8th. There he
left Mr. Jones, and proceeded alone with fifty
porters through U-Soga toward U-Ganda.
He succeeded in almost reaching the place
where the Nile issues from the lake, but was
there arrested by order of King Mwanga, and,
after a week's imprisonment, was put to death
together with the greater number of his porters.
The diary which follows commences at Ndi,
which lies to the north of the Mission-station of
Taita, where the Bishop branched off from the
ordinary route to Chas^ga and made his first
plunge into the unknown. I have connected
the Bishop's brief jottings with words of my
own only where it would seem that the sense
really required it.
''''Saturday^ August ist. — We have come too
much to the west, but I see the reason : there
is food to be obtained here, and we can rest.
The men have had a hard time this week, and
many are complaining. I myself am not over
well.
-^,
^.'
Mil"
i'' ^^^
SH"
f
Ndi ; Alarm of Fire. 143
"About one a.m. roused by sudden cry of fire,
and found my tent all of a glow. Terrified I
sprang from bed, dashed into shoes and trousers,
seized a gun — I could find no stick — yelled to
Jones, who was still fast asleep, and rushed to
help beat it out. I thought for a short time
all was lost, as the flames leapt into the air,
but soon found it was not so bad as it looked,
and that nothing was hurt. I fell on my knees
and thanked God for the preservation.
"Spent a quiet day re-arranging loads,
washing, and mending.
" Sunday^ August 2nd. — Since there is food
here we can enjoy the Divmely-given rest ;
two days is not too much rest for any of us,
and this week should, if all goes well, be a
very hard one. I am not over well, having
never yet thoroughly recovered from the in-
tense strain of starting, and there is, though
there ought not to be, a fear of failure. For
instance, we have only about three days' food
remaining, and seven days' journey to go
through the desert country of Kikumbuliu ;
nor can we buy here beyond our daily want.
" The men are in good spirits.
144 ^'^^^ Last journal.
" Monday^ August yrd. — We were off early.
The men vowed they knew the way ; but we
soon got lost, so we forced a way across
country and found a road which the men again
vowed they knew. All then went well till
Jones and the guides pressed ahead. Presently
I and the men lost them, then lost ourselves.
I climbed a tree and saw some rocks, which
Bedue declared was the place at which Thomson
slept, and that there was water. So we made
our way across country, but found no road. I
got lost again, and was in the depth of black
despair, when we came upon an open space
and saw our way. Presently we found Jones,
to my intense thankfulness, urged the men on,
and at sunset arrived at the rocks. No water !
Bedue then quietly turned round and said,
' This is not the place, it is over there ! '
We were all greatly exhausted. I had a
little water, but not enough to refresh me.
^^ Tuesday^ August ^th. — Slept in the open.
Men very noisy. Up twice and boxed some of
their ears. Slept very badly. Felt cold keenly.
Up at six ; men very fractious, and we lost a
good hour of the cool part of day. Last night
The Nyika Horvida. 145
we took advice of everybody we knew and
struck for Mount Mchatzo.
" Finding wild beast paths, we got astray once
or twice. Sun intensely hot. Nyika utterly
shadeless. Once or twice I crouched under the
trunk of a tree ami gasped for breath. Then,
quite suddenly we came upon a magnificent
river about one o'clock, which greatly revived
our spirits. I, however, had a sharp attack of
sun-fever soon after arrival. The men suffered
much to-day. They caught numbers of fish in
the river. Through mercy we have lost little
by our getting astray. It has greatly fatigued
and worn me, but there is some great gain, no
doubt, which I now see not.
''Wednesday, August 5^'//. — Men cooked
their food at the river. I and two or three
others started early, and marched on till about
noon, when I halted and waited for the rest.
Shot a brace of partridges and slept. Saw
spoor of giraffes, rhinos, and buffalo quite fresh.
" Halted without water at three o'clock in an
open space in the forest.
" It has been a nice cool day, but I have felt
very poorly and complaining, and have had
146 The Last Journal.
great difficulty in getting along. I think the
intense monotony of the Nyika horrida has
much to do with it. You seldom see more
than a gunshot ahead. The thorns are terrific,
and every moment you expect to see a change
of scene and are disappointed. My sufferings
have been rather severe to-dav. I don't feel
like getting through.
^^ Thursday, August 6th. — Off at break of
day, having first despatched some men to look
for a boy who has apparently decamped, and
has probably thrown my tent poles which he
was carrying in the road.
" I led and thought the jungle more dismal
than ever. Jones sighted a cow rhinoceros
and two calves, and another crossed the cara-
van and led some to drop their loads. About
eleven, and most unexpectedly to all, for we
understood we were not to get anv till to-
morrow, we came upon water. My joy was
intense, for I dreaded many of the men break-
ing down before the day was out, to say
nothing of to-morrow. How gracious God
has been ! — (Ps. ciii. i, 2.) After cooling,
we march on again at two. I sighted giraffe
Lunched off Weasels. 147
and zebra, but only got a. long shot. Dined on
roasted parrot and pigeons. Still poorly, but I
have walked better.
" Friday, August 7//^.— During the first part
of the dav the jungle was much more open ;
game was sighted, and a rhino scare got up.
I fired at a hartebeeste without success. About
ten, we came upon water at Mutito wa
Andei (not as Thomson), and presently a
hunter crept out of the bushes. It seemed
pleasant to come across a stranger after seeing
no man all the week. Lunched off weasels
curried, but they were not a success. A man
brought in taken very ill, but I could not
discern what was the matter with him except
that he seemed to be dying. Off again about
two, and encamped without water at Ngurunga
Nyoka. Shot a very large partridge, off
which we dined, but, as spurs an inch long
betokened, he was about a hundred years old !
The Mkamba gave me some wild honey, which
also added to the feast.
" Saturday, August 8//^.— That poor man
died in the night. The ground was so hard
that we could not bury him. The men
148 The Last Journal.
covered him with thorns. Met some Wakamba
in the road, one of whom, a woman, on seeing
me, fell down in a fit as if dead. I expected
they would say that I had done it, but found
out that it was a frequent occurrence. Arrived
in the Kamba country at ten. Pleasant to get
out of this terrible desert and to be in a land
of food and water. God has been very
gracious, though I am an ungracious sinner.
The people seem very kindly disposed.
" I went out for the pot with Jones and killed
an eagle, also a huge baboon ; he was so
heavy that Jones, I, and my boy could not
carry him. The Wanyika eat both freely.
J.'s excitement was very amusing. Doubt-
less these very large apes when wounded are
very dangerous. No. 5 shot finished him.
" Sunday^ August <^th. — Service at eight
o'clock. There turns out to be very little
food here, and the head men wanted to march
on, but I resisted a move being made. A
chief came and saw me and was very friendly,
and small presents were exchanged. Once I
was nearly ordering a start because the head
men had neglected to buy food. I was so
Vexations. 149
anerv and distressed that I went afterwards
and took a quinine pill, thinking fever must be
near.
" O Lord, help me to run with patience !
" Service again in the evening.
''Monday, August 10///.— Off at break of day,
and after about a five hours' march, we reached
our destination amidst streams and in the
midst of a very populous country. Dozens of
Wakamba soon surrounded us, and I was an
object of great attraction. Food soon began
to pour into camp in great plenty, and the men
are in for a regular feast. I took a short round,
and killed a fine monkey for dinner.
" Meeting with a man who professes to be
going to the coast before very long, I set to
work and wrote letters, in hopes of their
reaching in a month or six weeks' time.
''Tuesday, August nth. — Crowds of people
pour into the camp, and food is sufficiently
plentiful to enable us to buy a little ahead. In
consequence, and on the men's account, I have
delayed our start until the afternoon. We
were off at half-past twelve, and marched on till
about four. This brings us to the outskirts
150 The Last J-ournal.
of Kikumbuliu, close by the Mbiianzau
Mountains. I tried in vain to get a shot at
monkeys or anything else.
" Wednesday^ August 12th. — Off early and
brought down a beautiful black monkey, a
long shot, No. 5. Presently a flock of guinea-
fowl rose, and two fell to my gun. Jones,
coming up after, likewise bagged two. The
boy had neglected to bring cartridges, and the
other boy with the spare supply had remained
far behind, so my sport and the men's supper were
now curtailed. Met two parties of Wakamba,
and lost our road, arriving about five in evening
at water — River Kuombi. Found that the boy
with my medicine-chest had disappeared — the
rerdict is, he has run away. I suppose we ought
to turn back, but no, not yet. I have one or two
bottles of extras. I must trust and not be
afraid. I was, for a short time, very impatient
with my wretched crew of head men, who are
greatly to blame. In addition to this blow we
are again lost in the desert.
^^ Thursday^ A ugust 1 3///. — Sent a search party
of ten back, which delayed our start consider-
ably. Shot a wolverine and sighted large herds
Loss of Medicine Chest. 151
of hartebeeste and zebra, and a vvaterbuck. We
arrived at the Warnia at about ten, and cooked.
Then crossed a large open plain, with large
herds of zebra and antelopes. We then camped
in the open forest, exceedingly fatigued with our
long march. Shortly after our arrival, a rhino-
ceros came out from a jungle close by and
took a good look at us, standing some time
and then strolled leisurely away. I was dozing
and saw him not, and the men who reported
the case were a long way off.
^^ Friday, August i^th. — I led the way, and
sighted a fine specimen of a male ostrich, the
green species with red feathers. Pigs and
other game and huge black baboons abounded.
"We arrived at the Kiangeni, after a long
march of five hours and a half ; then, hearing
that the camping-ground and villages were only
an hour ahead, we marched on without halt or
food for another five hours. I arrived more
dead than alive, but a greater bustard flying
up, and pitching again near at hand, I was
obliged to go, and bowled him over with No. 5
and at once a table was spread in the wilder-
ness.
15^ Tlie Last Joiirnal.
" Sorry to say I lost my temper with the men
and with Jones, whom I thought rather per-
verse, but now" think it was a misunderstanding.
He afterwards behaved exceedingly well. The
elders of the village assembled and refused to
sell food until we had paid hoiigo. I made
our people nervous by taking high ground with
them.
" SaUirday^ August i^th. — Delayed a little,
and settled verv easilv with the elders ; we
marched off ; then there was a rush of natives
to try and stop the men. We had proceeded but
a short distance when we found the road blocked
by a body of men. I ordered a forward march,
and led the way. An old man rushed at me
with bow and arrows and seized me, another
with a spear. I forced them back and dragged
and lugged my way through, closely followed
by Jones. After passing, I ordered him to
proceed slowly while I returned to see the
men safely past. I found that they had
been stopped, so I scolded the men for
halting, and then sat down and called the old
man who had seized me, and laughed at him,
and made excellent friends. Our way was
Forcifig a Way. I53
obstructed no more. Arrived at the sultan's
village about twelve, and found the people
very friendly, but food rather scarce.
" Sunday, August i6th. — Spent a very quiet
day. The chief came and visited me, and
sadly wanted to give me two oxen, but I
steadfastly refused, as it only means buying
them at an exorbitant price. We had our two
Services as usual. Jones preached both times,
as always. He took a portion from the Sermon
on the Mount — ' The House built on the Sand,'
and our situation on a mount with a sandy
torrent below singularly illustrated it. People
particularly well-behaved and kind.
^^ Monday^ August ijth. — Started badly;
could not get the men on their feet, and it is
so important to me to get the cool hours. I
got sadly angry, and afterwards despaired of
ever getting through the journey.
" We suffered much from the burning sun,
arrived in camp about one o'clock. People
came in crowds, and at first assumed an
unpleasant air, and met in solemn conclave.
They were, however, reasonable in their
demands, and we were soon on the best of
154 '^^^^ Last journal.
terms, and dinner revived our drooping spirits.
A wizard appeared on the scene, and pro-
phesied a pleasant journey and a present of
milk to-night ! 'Tis with much misgiving that
I have consented to break awav from Thom-
son's route for a little, and take a still more
northerly direction.
" Tuesday^ August \%th. — The effects of my
rage yesterday markedly manifest to-day.
We started in splendid time. Our way led
through a densely populous district, crowds
following, and yelling and hooting in a deaf-
ening manner.
" Twice lion go was demanded, to which I
turned a deaf ear. At last I found the caravan
on the halt, and proceeding to the front I
found a panic among the leaders. The Wak-
amba had most peremptorily ordered us to
camp, and were threatening to fight. I said I
am ready, and marched on with my umbrella.
Swords were drawn, bows strung, and the
offensive assumed. I laughed and proceeded.
The people of the next district now came and
urged us to proceed, while our enemies rushed
in front of me and drew up in line to fight
The Unihrella to the Front. 155
them. I broke through and stood between
the lines, so that I must have received the
arrows of either party, and still continued to
laugh in spite of the horrid yells, and the
intense alarm of those with me. Quite sud-
denly matters assumed a peaceful aspect, and
the enemy said camp as soon as you reach
their river, and we will come and sell vou
things.
" Wednesday^ August i(^th. — Yesterday the
elders made a plea of levying a small hongo,
because we had moved an ostrich egg which it
appears had been placed under a tree as a
charm. Made another splendid start, and found
the natives everywhere numerous, and anxious
for us to stop, but friendly withal. After a
long march north-west on a high plateau, our
guides suddenly turned us to the north-east.
I strongly objected, but was assured by our
men that they were right, so, after dinner, I
proceeded for an hour. At last I utterly
refused to go further, and said I would find my
own way, and was manfully followed by Jones.
' As you will go that way,' said one guide,
'may I go home and get some things to sell
156 The Last journal.
you?' His treachery was now patent; we had
been led into deep valleys to reach his home,
and our proper route was left behind. It was
impossible to recover ourselves, so we had to
sleep in a ravine not altogether knowing where
we were ; but all are agreed that we are to
reach the village of Machako, a great
Wakamba chief.
" Thursday y August 20th. — We plunged into
a tremendous valley, and then began to climb,
when our guide wanted to go back. I refused,
and took the lead, and soon arrived in a
densely populated district, where we were con-
ducted to the usual camping-ground. We asked
about the chief, and were told that if we wanted
to see him we must send and tell him so ; but
it did not matter, so we decided not to do so.
Heaps of provisions were poured into the
camp — butter, milk, and Indian corn.
''We find that we must buv for the men, so
we opened a market. I found that two yards of
cloth would buy food for one man for ten
days.
" Shot a partridge which supplied my table
for the day.
5,5oo Feet above the Sea. 157
" People exceedingly friendly and well be-
haved, but, except ornaments, entirely naked.
I am an object of intense interest.
^''Friday, August 21st. — Having food to buy
for four davs for two hundred odd mouths we
are compelled to stop where we are. The
market is very brisk and the price is falling con-
siderably. The climate here is very cold ; we
are 5,500 feet above sea level, so we rejoice in
fires all day, and at night pile up a perfect
bonfire.
"The natives swarm round me, but are always
well-behaved and kind, and they resent any-
thing like a liberty being taken by anybody.
They are, however, a little afraid of me, and
the slightest gesture of impatience causes a
stampede. I never liked savages so well.
They say I am a child of God, and so they are
afraid.
^^ Saturday, August 22nd. — We were off as
soon as we could, but we had to give out food
to the porters first. Soon after starting I shot
a fennec. A covey of partridge got up, and I
brought nine down. A rhinoceros now hove
in sight, so Jones and I started for him. We
158 The Last Journal.
stalked him within sixtv vards, when he winded
us and went off. I gave him a shot which
made him jump into the air, and we were
quickly after him, but he soon out-distanced
us. A guinea-fowl fell next to my gun, and
another to Jones.
'' We reached Lanjora at about one o'clock,
5,500 feet above sea level, and bitterly cold.
The men were utterly collapsing.
" Sunday^ August 22,rd. — We could not
arrange to stay all this time at Machako's, and
even if we had done so, we should have had
a most noisy and uncomfortable day. We
could not, however, stop in the wilderness, so
w^e marched on. I refused to go by Thom-
son's road, although on the map it appears
shorter. We arrived in excellent time at the
Attie. In a pool close by my tent I saw five
huge hippopotami. I saw, too, about five
rhinoceroses, giraffe and ostrich, besides
numerous herds of antelopes.
^^ Monday, August 2^t/L — Off at daybreak.
The men again wanted to take a wrong direc-
tion, but were overruled by my compass.
A bittern fell to my gun, and as two rhino-
Abundant Game. 159
ceroses now hove in sight I gave a chase, but
thev heard the caravan and made off. Three
more appeared in the distance, but did not
tempt me. Soon two more were sighted, and
these we approached to within fifty yards,
when they made a furious charge upon us. I
fired at thirty yards at the bull and caught his
flank ; he now turned viciously at me, and
those who were with me retreated precipitately.
At five yards' distance I gave him my second
barrel in the head, and expected to see him fall
at my feet ; he wheeled round and fled badly,
but not mortally, wounded, and we could not
come up with him. My wretched little twelve-
bore is a mere pop-gun against such monsters.
A quarter of an hour later two huge buff'aloes
w^ere met with, but we could not get near
them. Afterwards we saw other rhinoceroses
and an enormous drove of buff'aloes fully a
mile long. The men caught great numbers
of fish, many over a pound, at our camping
place, and thus, in spite of our ill-luck with
the gun, did not fare badly."
CHAPTER VIII.
(AUGUST 25th— SEPTEMBER 14th.)
Ngongo-a-Bagas to Lake Nakuro.
" The plain was grassy and wild and bare,
Wide, wild, and open to the air,
Which had built up everywhere
An under-roof of doleful gray ;
Some blue peaks in the distance rose,
And white against the cold, white skj^,
Shone out their crowning snows."
Tennyson.
" Thrice blest is he to whom is given
The instinct that can tell
That God is in the field when He
Is most invisible.''
Faber.
" Tuesday, August 2$fh. — Various wild
schemes were suggested by the headmen, who
had made up their minds that we could not
reach Ngongo to-day. A herd of gnus trotted
past on the opposite side of the river ; I counted
a hundred and thirty. I next saw some thousand
zebras, and three or four ostriches. Soon after
I beean to stalk two elands, when I was dis-
tracted by two rhinos. Following them I w^as
again distracted by Jones, and made nervous.
An Alarm of Masai. i6i
I bit the bull in the flank, at about thirty-
yards, and both of them made off". During
the chase a man picked up an ostrich egg.
We sighted ten rhinos to-day. Presently
we entered the lovely Kikuvu forests, and
soon after, to everybody's astonishment, found
ourselves at Ngongo. Not a soul to be seen.
" Wednesday, Aiigitst 26th. — At about eleven
o'clock I went after guinea-fowl and bagged
five. I only missed one, and that was through
my gun going off before I expected.
''At one p.m. there was an alarm of Masai,
who proved to be some Wa-Kikuyu women
returning home from a Masai kraal. They
say that the Masai have all gone to Naivasha.
We anxiously waited all day for people to
come to us with food, and sent men, but they
returned empty.*
* The Wa-Kikuyu inhabit the recesses of an inacces-
sible forest. They are excessively timid and treacherous.
They are accustomed to deal with the unscrupulous
Swahili slave-traders, and upon the least alarm fly back
from the open to their fastnesses, and leave the traveller
to starve. To enter their forest glades without a strong
force would be to court a massacre. Bishop Hannington
M
1 62 The Last Journal.
^^ Thursday, Atigust zjth. — As soon as I
could I was off to buy food, but found the men
had been before me and had caught up the
Httle that was brought, so I could not get a
word with a native. Nor could I see any game
beyond a guinea-fowl which fell to my gun.
"These forests are particularly beautiful. I
found to-day Thomson's celebrated larkspur,
and have obtained seed in fine condition.
" The men are simply starving, so I made up
my mind that if I saw a rhino I would walk
up to him, if possible, and blow his brains out
at a yard distance. Alas ! none appeared. It
now leaks out that the Swahili caravan last
year fought the people and took many slaves.
Consequently, they are afraid to come out of
their dense forests, and are very probably
waiting for a good opportunity to take revenge.
I must be most careful about the men. I don't
anticipate personal danger. I searched part
of the forest with only one boy, it is very
beautiful.
put his life in great danger more than once in his
anxiety to prove to them that Christians both trusted
others and were themselves to be implicitly trusted.
The Wa-Kikiiyii. 163
^''Friday August 2^th. — Off at daybreak to
try and get food. Found a gang of men
before me, but, coming up to them, I
drove them back. After waiting in a certain
spot near a river for three hours, I rose in
despair to return, when a loud voice broke
the stillness, and from the dense thicket oppo-
site we were bidden to come on further. My
men were all terrified to enter the forest, as,
according to all, the Wa-Kikuyu are very
dangerous. I said ' I shall go alone ' ; so off I
started ; the rest then followed at a sufficient
distance to bolt if I was attacked. Commit-
ting myself into His hands I went forward
through the dense forest for an hour. Pre-
sently emerging into an open glade I saw
some armed men. Ordering my timid fol-
lowers to stand still, I advanced alone and
unarmed, with a bunch of leaves in my hand
to show peace, at the same time calling out
' friend.' They advanced, evidently full of
fear. I now sat on a rock, shook hands, gave
beads, and made peace, and bought all that
they had, which proved barely sufficient for
two hundred mouths. The mental experiences
164 The Last Journal.
of this day alone have been enough to fill half
a volume, let alone the curious experience
with the Kikuyu people.
'' Saturday, August 29///. — Off at daybreak to
search for food. I had especially ordered that
no man should leave camp before me, when,
to my wrath, I discerned that two had done so.
After waiting in the appointed place for three
hours I returned, and found that the men
had again disobeyed orders, and were in
eight small gangs close about where I had
waited, as though they were in ambuscade. It
will be our own fault if no food is obtained to-
day. Very much over-tired and over-wrought ;
the burden of two hundred starving men is a
terrible weight ; and yet I keep saying ' I will
trust and not be afraid.' We are three days in
any direction from food. Here it is abundant,
but the natives were so badly treated by the
Swahilis last year that they are afraid to come.
•* The men returned terribly crestfallen, and
without food. The natives refuse to trade with
us unless we make a present to ten villages. We
held a long counsel as to what we should do.
Many said, Go back, which obviously is bad
A Starving- Caravan. 165
advice. I determined to pay the demand and
let the men try again to-morrow. I am not to
go myself. We continued advising till far into
the night. Just able to give men a cap box
full of food each,*
^^ Sunday J August 2)Oth. — I spent much of the
night in praver, and was up at earliest dawn to
start the men. But even in a matter of their
own life and death I could not get them to
start as early as I wanted them to do. Jones
went in charge of the party, while I spent
the dav in prayer, fasting, and rest, with the
blessed assurance that He will supply our need.
About three an alarm was given, and a war cry
heard from the direction our men had taken.
The camp armed itself, whilst I, ordering them
to keep their place in camp, advanced with my
walking-stick to meet the foe. One man alone
stole after me. The shouts grew louder ; my
feelings were awful. Our men had been mur-
dered, and now the rest were coming to attack
the camp ! With a sigh of relief I caught
sight of the glittering spears of some Masai —
the first I had seen ! Confidence being
''-' A small tin box, made to hold percussion caps. See
Life, p. 397.
1 66 The Last Journal.
restored, I again advanced to meet them.
About seventeen young warriors appeared, and
I at once saw that their spears were stained
with fresh blood. I went round among them,
and soon we were the best of friends. Their
look was enough to paralyse my men with fear.
Far, however, from meeting their demands, we
refused half their requests. Presently a fresh
anxiety beset me ; no news came of our men
from Kikuyu. I walked to meet them, and at
sunset had the joy of seeing them return with
a little food, but with a dismal tale also of
quarrelling with the natives, who had shot
several poisoned arrows at them. Jones, with
much difficulty, had restrained our men from
retaliating upon them, and all are more or less
in great tremor. I have assured the men, who
are loud in their cries to return, that it is only
their fear which threatens them, and that had I
been there I should have driven the Wa-Kikuyu
oif with a stick ! I further laughed at them
right and left, which caused, I am afraid, a
little wrath to Jones, who had never had
poisoned arrows shot at him before, and was
feeling especially heroic.
Men Wounded. 167
^^ Mo7iday^ August 315/. — It was thought
advisable that I should remain at home again,
as we expected a return of the Masai. I sent
about fifty men to the forest to buy food, and
soon news came that things were going well ;
w^iereupon all wanted to start at once. Had
I been away from camp it would have been
deserted. I gave permission to a few, but
others disobeyed and also left. Presently the
first party returned, having bought a little, but
had then begun to quarrel with the natives.
In vain the headman ordered the others who
had just arrived to return in vain. They dis-
obeyed. Presently a man came running into
camp stark-naked, with a sword-cut on his
shoulder. 'What news?' 'Good news!' — (the
stock reply) — 'but the savages have killed two
men, and wounded me here, and another one in
the head, and stolen four guns.' ' Are the men
dead ? ' ' Quite, I saw them killed.' Great
was my despair. Somehow I seemed crushed.
In came the other man clubbed in the head.
'Are they killed or left wounded ? ' ' Killed —
dead.' 'Well,' I said, 'it is no use getting
their corpses, the Masai won't let us bury
1 68 The Last journal.
them ; there seems nothing else to be done.
Half an hour afterwards, during which I
suffered intensely, in walked the two dead
men, one w^ith a dreadful sword-cut in the leg,
which I proceeded to sew up and dress ; but
with what altered feeling. Bless the Lord, O
my soul, we have been preserved from death.
But what about the morrow ? Sufficient unto
the day is the evil thereof.
''^ Tuesday^ September ist. — We have begun
the month in this horrible place ; after yes-
terday many seemed to be for moving off, but
without food it is next to impossible to do so.
I said I would go and see what I could effect,
so, taking about sixty men, I arrived on the
ground. I soon saw two natives making
frantic signs and shouting. Ordering the men
to stop, I advanced alone ; I was in
rather a perilous position, but did not feel
nervous. We made friends again and the
market went on briskly ; my men, however,
nearly succeeded in spoiling everything. I
began a discussion about the four guns stolen
yesterday, and got promises of restoration.
Several times I had to go with the natives
Intractable Porters. 169
quite alone, in spite of the fear of my men.
At last one youth made a grab at Brahim's
cloth, and carried it oif, when B., like a fool,
not only gave chase, but fired his gun right
into the middle of them. The retreating
natives dropped their things right and left,
amongst other things one of our guns. My
fury with B. w^as intense. The peace I had
been at such pains to make was again broken,
and my hopes dashed to the ground. I picked
up some of their things, and ignoring the
danger, followed them alone, shouting to them
to return. At last I got the ear of one man,
and threw him a basket, which, on my re-
treating, he picked up. I then showed him
where the rest of the things were. On mv
retreating again he came up to these, I then
by various spittings and waving of grass, got
him to let me come up and shake hands, and
we parted on the understanding that wx would
meet again to-morrow\ I had a better lot of
stuff bought to-day, and some in hand after
supplying the wants of the caravan. After
reaching camp I had a long, wearying, un-
successful hunt after some zebra.
170 The Last Journal.
" Wednesday^ September 2nd. — It is far
harder work for me here than when on the
road, and a most anxious time. We were off
again soon after daybreak, the men being
very troublesome. The market opened briskly,
but some new comers appearing suddenly
round the corner, my men shouted 'Masai!'
and off went the natives at full speed. One
or two returned afterwards, but the market
was over for the day, and we had bought
next to nothing. I had a most exciting chase
after a huge herd of black baboons, but with-
out success.
^^ Thursday^ September yd. — Took about
seventy men with me with orders that nobody
but myself was to buy anything. Arriving on
the battlefield I found the foe readv with
goods — Indian corn and sweet potatoes. Then,
the preliminaries having been gone through, a
brisk trade began. My first wrathful burst was
occasioned by Brahim who was behind me,
and who thinking I had no eyes in the back of
my head, stole beads and bought. Then the
natives, among whom there are three opposing
parties, began to fight between themselves, and
Vigorous Peacaiiaking. 171
I had to make peace, passing first to one party,
then to another.
"At last their numbers overwhelmed me, and
my men, seeing the state of things, broke loose,
scattered hither and thither, and fought for
themselves to the utmost peril of us all. Mild
measures were in vain, and shouts of no avail ;
it was a matter of life and death. Kicks and
blows alone got them together once more into
the spot which I had marked out as our camp.
During the scrimmao^e I nearlv broke mv toe,
and once fell exhausted to the ground while
giving a man a shaking. I suffer far more
from the folly of my own men, who at the risk
of everything will try and buy, and scatter
right and left, than from the Wa-Kikuyu. In
spite of all, I was able to buy potatoes enough
for two hundred men, and Indian corn sufficient
for six hundred men for one dav, which means
about as many as eight hundred separate pur-
chases, each with a string of beads. On the
way back another headman stole a small load,
but again I had eyes in the back of my head.
^^ Friday^ September /\th. — This is a most
wearying delay. We hear that there is no food
172 The Last Journal.
ahead for a fortnight at least. Thomson
collected a month's food here, and speaks of
that as the minimum which can safely be taken.
The Swahilis make a point of collecting three
months' food, and often stay nearly as long to
do it. By this time I have gathered sufficient for
nearly two hundred men for a short four days.
To-day I took Jones with me, and he looked
after the men while I bought. The natives
came by scores, and one or two stampedes
took place. One man's cloth was stolen, and
finally I had the utmost difficulty in preventing
one of my fools — I can call them nothing else
— from being killed. It was so close a shave
that I who had remained far behind in the
midst of the natives, while my man retreated
at the double, had to sound the war crv.
Fortunatelv our men were too fris^htened to
think of returning, and the threatened man
bolted beyond the reach of harm. I believe
myself to be safe with them. They know that
I am not afraid. Twice I seized the man who
tried to spear Togiki, and held him tight in the
midst of them, and followed him unarmed
when he was again charging him with his spear.
Stripes for the Backs of Fools. 173
" They never attempt to offer me the
slightest show of insult. Half a mile from
the men I was not unfrequently alone with
them, while if a black man is with me it
is with the utmost difficulty they keep their
hands off him, nearly stabbing him at mv side.
God is more than gracious in giving me a
strong nerve, so that I walk up to them
unarmed, w^hen their poisoned arrows are
poised on outstretched bows. Having bought
as much as we could retreat with quite earlv
to-day, in spite of great fatigue and a painful
foot I returned to the fray ; the result of the
two purchasings was one hundred measures of
corn. The natives the second time, however,
came much closer to meet us, which made
matters easy.
*' The disobedience of mv men is fearful —
the first few days hunger and the savagery
of the natives have utterly dissipated them.
I have had to administer some hearty thrash-
ings. People may say what they like, it is a
matter of life and death.*
* "Frequently order has to be introduced into the
fighting pack by the dread uplifting of the birch."
Thomson.
174 '^^^^ Last journal.
" Saturday^ September ^th. — After our expe-
rience yesterday we attempted to entice the
natives to the place to which they came
yesterday. After waiting for a long time, and
building a fence, when nobody came we went
further till we came within sight of each other.
Three hours passed, and the Wa-Kikuyu
withdrew, so we still followed them. In a short
time some old people emerged from the
bushes, and began making the usual fuss about
preliminary presents ; this I refused and drew
back, when they entreated me to return, and
business soon began with a vengeance. To-day
I may say hundreds of them surrounded me.
Of a sudden the war crv was raised, and,
leaping to my feet, I saw an arrow fly towards
the camp, and the natives and my men posed
for war. I instantly seized a stick, dashed into
the middle of my men, and made them drop
their guns, and sit (the attitude of peace), and
then I advanced into the midst of the lines of
the foe, single-handed and unarmed, and made
peace. Twice more did matters assume the
same phase, until, having bought sufiicient, I
ordered a hasty retreat, while I remained alone
The Camp on Fire. 175
in the midst of the enemy. Even then my
villainous men rushed hither and thither, trying
to buy against orders, and to the utmost peril
of their lives and the wrecking of the whole
party. Through infinite mercy we escaped
without harm, but the danger was several times
acute, and the strain was very, very great.
" Sunday, September 6t/i. — Last night, close
to my tent and possessions, the boys acci-
dentally set fire to their hut. Amongst other
things, there was a loaded gun in the midst.
A scrimmage took place, and Brahim bravely
rushed in and seized the gun, while I confess
(as all property inside was evidently destroyed)
to having cried to all to run away and myself
set them the example. The men were clearing
Indian corn at the time, and, with eyes in the
back of mv head, I saw one avail himself of
the general confusion and steal, while in
an opposite direction I saw a pair of shoes,
which had been carelessly left in the hut,
abstracted from the embers and hidden.
In a few days time it would have been,
* Where are those shoes ? ' Every box
would have been hunted, and then, finally,
176 The Last Joiirnal.
' Possibly they were burnt, master ! ' Such
are the people among whom I dwell. A
double portion of food was provided yesterday,
so that to-day we have no need to buy, although
the temptation to get sufficient to enable us to
move on is very great. When I told the
men last night that no leave to buy would be
given to anybody, because since it was Sunday
I would not go, and that it was unsafe for them
to do so alone, almost a rebellion broke out,
and many cried, ' We will go though we die ! '
and, yet, I am giving them plenty to eat now ;
it is simply wilfulness ; they ivill buy for
themselves, though all might die for it. We
had our two usual Services, Jones preaching
both times, and I spent a very quiet Sunday.
The dav opened with bitter cold. Though the
thermometer was only down to 50°, I thought
it was freezing. It then turned to an intensely
hot, cloudless day, and everything looked most
beautiful.
" Monday^ September ytli. — Still obliged to
stop and buy, and I doubt if even to-day we
shall obtain sufficient. I am obliged to confes
to having felt a little nervous at starting. My
The Bishop's Life Threatened. lyj
men are such fools ! Arriving on the ground
I at once found that we were in the midst of
the very worst set. SteaHng began immedi-
ately, and a fight took place between the
natives themselves. I at once ordered a
retreat, buying as I went, and so retreating and
buying, retreating and buying, men carrying
sacks in front of me, and receiving beads, a
string at a time, I went on. The men lost
several things ; two guns were stolen, I
redeemed them ; when, looking behind me,
I saw a man aiming a poisoned arrow at me.
There was nothing to be done but to go on
quietly, buying and retreating, and taking no
notice of the danger, for there was not provo-
cation enough to fire, and to betray the slightest
sign of discomposure would have been fatal ;
besides, I wanted to buy. Presently my men
turned traitors again, and scattered right and
left to purchase, and our danger was extreme. I
dealt blows on all sides, and got matters a
little square again, but the result was that I
had to give up buying long before I otherwise
need have done. I afterwards went to redeem
a gun alone into the midst of these savages ;
178 The Last jfournal.
but in this way I don't fear them, in fact I
asked to be taken alone to one of their villages,
for nobody yet has been able to visit them in
their homes. We were not, however, able to
arrange it, they wanted me to sleep the night,
which I felt was impossible, on account
of insect life. I found on return that I had
bought a most astonishing quantity of food —
one hundred and thirty-four measures of corn,
besides an immense number of potatoes. We
can now, d.v., start.
'"''Tuesday^ September St/i. — We made every-
thing ready overnight and slipped off as still
as mice very early in the morning, hoping that
the murderers would not find us out.* In
about an hour we reached a large pond. I
might easily have shot a goose, but I feared to
rouse the natives. Presentlv, as we were
resting, I heard a gun-shot behind, and was told
that some sick men had straggled. I seized my
gun and dashed back in time to see one of the
sick men hotly pursued with the spear. With-
out a moment's hesitation, in order to save his
* The Wa-Kikuyu are accustomed to harass retreating
caravans, and to cut off all stragglers.
Routed by Bees. 179
life, I gave them a charge of No. 2 shot at
about one hundred vards, and magical was
the effect — they fled right and left. Having
got my scattered adherents together, none
killed or wounded, we hastily proceeded, and
reached another pond, where natives again hove
in sight. (Read Thomson^ chap, viii.) I went
alone unarmed to parley with them, and found
them peaceable.
" Presently I saw my men, who were about
half a mile off, flying in all directions like
madmen, and no foe nor wild beast to be seen.
Very near the spot I heard a shout, ' Bees !
Bees ! ' and instantly I was attacked in the
most savage way. Loads were scattered by
the terrified men, and the natives accumulated
around. I was frantic, as I felt sure the natives
would dash in and seize the loads, bees or no
bees. I wrapped myself in a cloth and essayed
to go, but was utterly put to flight, hundreds
of bees surrounded me. Then I bethought me
of my mosquito net, and, enveloping myself,
tried again and again, but was driven back ;
about twenty bees got inside and I was nearly
mad. A third attempt and I succeeded
i8o
The Last Journal.
better, and made a rescue or two. Jones
also attempted, and got worse stung than I
did, and many of the men also were fear-
fully stung ; out of one's back we took, I think,
fifty stings. The natives made an attempt, I
think, to steal, but were utterly routed, and
about three hours passed before we succeeded
in getting straight. For a radius of three hun-
dred yards bees raged in every direction. On
halting, a rhinoceros bolted through the
caravan, but I could not get a shot, though
I gave him hot chase.
Donyo Longonot.
" Wednesday^ September ^th. — Through the
good hand of our God no attempt was made to
attack us by the natives, though we more than
half expected it ; and, from what I hear, very
few of the men enjoyed anything like a night's
rest. We were off quite early, and rejoiced to
Lions. 1 8 1
leave the Wa-Kikuyu behind. Although what
success awaits us among the Masai, who are
now in dense numbers at Naivasha, I know not.
" I came across the coniferous tree, dis-
covered by Thomson, to-day, and saw many
interesting specimens. The scenery was some-
thing grand, and unlike anything I have yet
seen in Africa.
" At eleven o'clock we stopped and cooked at
Guaso Kedong, and then proceeded until we
reached a deserted Masai kraal, of which we
took summary possession. As we came out of
the thicket two lions made a bolt, and so did I
after them, but I could not come up to them.
I. forgot I was not to chase lions !
"After having got comfortably to sleep, I was
aroused by the cry of fire, and beheld through
the corners of the tent a strong blaze. Had
great difficulty in getting out my things and
myself from the tent, and thus learnt a
lesson, however cold, not to have the doors
tied. Two men had set the kraal on fire, and
the wind spread it at a fearful rate. By
pulling down a part we saved the rest, and had
the other fires put out. I expected a restless,
r82 The Last jfoiirnal.
nervous night, but soon fell sound asleep, and
did not wake again till morning.
'•''Thursday^ September lot/i. — The road at
first went straight, but presently we had to
turn off to get water. A rogue elephant
crossed my path about one hundred yards off,
but I got no shot. After a hot walk Naivasha
suddenly came into view, a grand sight indeed
to one who had been nervously expecting to
see it for many days. And now that we do
see it, who can tell whether we shall pass it ?
Several fires in the distance betoken the
presence of Masai ; we heard at Ngongo that
they have mostly come here for pasture. We
camped in a deserted kraal. Just before
reaching it two magnificent ostriches made off
across the plain.
^^ Friday, September nth. — The cold was
quite intense. We were not far from 7,000
feet above sea level.
" Our road lay across a plain which was
literally covered with antelopes, jackals, and
pigs. Presently the bray of an ass sounded in
my ears far more terrific than the roar of a
lion, for it betokened the close proximity of
The Masai. 183
Masai. By-and-by herds of cattle came into
view, and lastly, the Masai themselves. The
first whom we met were very quiet, and we
passed without hindrance. After a little,
however, we were stopped, and hongo (very
small) was demanded ; this we meekly paid,
but I declined to camp as they demanded.
Others came and almost insisted on our stop-
ping where we were. I, however, refused
until we reached the proper place — near a
small stream and a mimosa thicket. Here we
soon ran up a fence of thorns, but in spite of
it the camp was soon besieged, and the usual
hongo shauri began, first with the warriors and
then with the old men. The shatiri was going
on when I unfortunately put in an appearance,
and wrathfully demanded whether they expected
to receive all we had. This led to a display of
wrath on their part and a feint at an entire
withdrawal. My people were dreadfully
frightened and angry with me, and I began
to feel a little nervous. However, we pre-
sently found they were all more meek, and
matters were satisfactorily settled ; but my
misery was about to begin ; I was besieged
184 The Last 'journal.
on all sides, pawed, and begged from, until I
was nearly crazy. I would have broken up
camp and left, as the Masai did, at sunset, but
everybody was against our departure at
present. To-morrow they say things will be
quite different, so, worn out with worry, and
with these pleasant assurances, but with grave
misgivings, I went to bed.
'' Saturday^ September 12th. — Flies and mos-
quitos swarmed, and so did Masai. As soon
as ever the sun showed, a fresh and powerful
band of warriors came at once and demanded
hongo. A very covetous and wicked-looking
old medicine-man came with them. After
some delay we settled their claims, but, before
doing so, a fresh band had arrived, and far
more insolent ; and then a third ; and then a
fourth ; and now the elders began to be even
more troublesome than the rest ; at length
matters reached a pitch, and the women were
ordered from camp, and fighting seemed
imminent. Jones and I rushed hither and
thither, and got matters straight again some-
how, but I was nearly torn to pieces by the
warriors pulling my hair and beard, examining
Wt// the Sun never go down f 185
my boots, toes, etc. ; at last, nearly demented, I
went to hide myself from them amid the trees.
After three ineffectual attempts I at last suc-
ceeded, when Jones, who knew where I was,
came rushing to call me. The warriors were
attacking the loads. I dashed back and found
them in a most dangerous mood, and backed
by the elders, who were worse than all. By
dint of the keenest policy I amused the war-
riors while Jones gave presents to the elders.
Then a fresh and yet more exacting band of
warriors arrived, and had to be satisfied. How
often I looked at the sun ! It stood still in the
heavens, nor would go down. I agonised in
prayer, and each time trouble seemed to be
averted ; and, after all, we came out of it far
better than could be expected, and really paid
very little — not two loads altogether, and
bought six goats to boot. About sunset things
grew quiet, so I went out and bagged three
geese. All the men, elders, Jones, and
myself agree that we must try and escape
to-morrow.
^^ Sunday, September i^t/i. — I had gone to
bed and asleep, when I heard a noise. The
1 86 TJie Last journal,
loads were being attacked. I rushed out and
found that two thieves had been seen to enter
through a thin place in the fence. I was on
the spot so soon that I heard them in the
bushes, and had a bullet sent over their heads.
We immediately turned out all hands and
made the fence much stronger. I expected a
bad night, but, unmindful of Masai, fell
asleep, nor woke till the proper time to move
off. After starting, what was my horror to
find Esau insisting upon accompanying Jacob,
otherwise, a band of warriors determined to
show us the road, and our men very weak
some of them, and inclined to straggle. How-
ever, in spite of all our fears, they be-
haved very well, and let us camp in a strong
kraal in peace. A fresh party of warriors
arriving, however, they became more exacting,
though not what you might call insolent, for
I had made warm friends with many on
the road by a constant display of the curio-
sities of my person and pocket. Again the
day refused to depart, and when utterly ex-
hausted, a third small party, yet exceeding any
in insolence, arrived. We were all tired and
Lake Elmeteita, 187
cross, and refused to be bullied, giving them
next to nothing-, rather ao^ainst mv wishes, for
I was flattered into a most meek mood. How-
ever, Jones and the interpreter prevailed
against me, and consequently we all parted
right down bad friends, a circumstance which
fidgetted me terribly, the more especially as I
had but just read of a caravan being cut to
pieces for a trifling dispute. We expected
thieves in this neighbourhood (see Thomson^ p.
347), but were left unmolested. My nerves,
however, are in a shattered condition, and
overstrained.
^^ Monday, September ij^tli. — We left camp
at daybreak. The men were very trouble-
some about starting. We soon came upon an
extensive kraal of Masai. As, however, there
were n'o warriors I got off" with three strings of
beads, much to my joy. Though they seemed
to have immense herds of cattle thev refused to
sell, saying they had but few, many having died
of the plague. The views to-day were very
beautiful, especially when we opened the pretty
little lake Elmeteita. Having arrived at
Thomson's second camping-place (return
1 88 The Last jfoiirnal,
journey) we brought to an anchor, without
seeing any traces of Masai. I sat down in
peace to write my diary, when my pen nearly
fell from my hand at the words, ' Masai warriors.'
There proved, however, to be only three, with
a magnificent ox to sell. God indeed feeding
Elijah by ravens. The day was far spent
before a somewhat dear bargain (though cheap
to us at any price) was concluded, when what
was my horror as I said as a matter of course,
' You will sleep in camp ? ' a thing which war-
riors never do, to hear them say, ' Yes, we
will.' However, they seemed so amiable,
that I began to feel pleased ; and to keep them
in view, I invited them to sleep in my own
tent, an offer which they to my astonishment
accepted gratefully. In spite of Jones declar-
ing I should be most miserable with three
such evil bedfellows, I felt I would rather
have them under my own eye than chance their
prowling about the camp. The warmest
friendship now seemed to spring up between
us, and, having strewn the floor of the tent
with the leaves of the sweet-scented caleshwa,
a herb which the Masai use for beds, we laid
Masai as Bedfellows. 189
us down to rest, their spears and shields at
their sides. They packed themselves • away
like sardines in a box, and I covered them
over first with a leopard's skin, then with a grass
mat, and finally a waterproof sheet. They
fell almost instantly into a most gentle sleep.
I followed their example, and, with one ex-
ception, I did not wake until time to start.
Wherever we meet we are to be brothers.
CHAPTER IX.
Lake Nakuro to Kavirondo.
(SEPTEMBER 15th— OCTOBER nth.)
" We reached
A mountain like a wall of burrs and thorns."
Tennyson.
"When men are rightly occupied, their amusement grows out of
their work, as the colour-petals out of a fruitful flower." — RUSKIN,
Sesame and Lilies.
" Tuesday^ September i^th. — To add to my
poverty a man has lost my gaiters to-day. I
got so wet and cold in the dewy grass that I
had to stop and change after about half-an-
hour's walk. Small streams and springs were
in marvellous abundance, and the pretty little
salt lake of Nakuro was in sight most of the
day. Without much difficulty we passed one
of Thomson's camps, and brought up at the
second without any especial adventure, and
without seeing any Masai — two circumstances
which were a cause of great thankfulness, for
I was so prostrated nervously and exhausted
with our Masai experiences at Naivasha, that I
nearly dropped after firing a shot at a wild
boar.
A Wounded l^iiffato. 19!
''''Wednesday^ September i6th. — The men
were most aggravating at the start, but my
temper was rectified when Brahim and I
between us knocked over a fine zebra. The
meat I did not taste, but it made deHcious soup,
and the liver was excellent. A short march
brought us to Thomson's camp. There I
suggested striking the other side of the valley,
much to our men's objection ; but, passing on,
we came across two enormous herd of buffaloes,
one of which I took after, but only got a long,
unsuccessful shot. I got close to an old bull
and gave him two shots, whereupon he imme-
diately charged me, and, having an empty gun,
I dodged behind a tree, and he passed on,
stumbling from his wounds, but was soon lost
to sight. I thought he had fallen, and was
going along when I almost landed myself on
his horns. I drew back to take aim, but
Brahim, who was with me, insisted on my
coming away, as he was in a most dangerous
state. Seeing our undecision, he made off
and we lost him. A quarter of a mile or less
and I nearly stumbled over a rhinoceros,
but got no shot. We were surprised by
192 The Last J-ournal.
coining across a new lake about four miles
square, and find we have missed the road.
" Thursday ^September i Jth. — First, two lions
in sight ; then three ostriches ; then a water-
buck ; then about three hundred buffaloes ;
then two rhinos ; next a very large elephant,
after which I took without success ; then again
I was enticed into an unsuccessful chase by
twentv ostriches of the red kind ; we then
stumbled on four elephants. I gave the huge
leader three balls, all of which I think took
effect. Brahim fired at a cow, the bull
wheeled round and fled a little, but, catching
sight of me, charged with the utmost fury. At
the same moment two rhinos charged towards
me, and crossed the elephant's path, so he
made at them and completely routed them ;
then he retired a little, and I pursued ; and at
the same moment a leopard gave chase to the
dog. The wounded bull led the way up a clift
path, but had reached the top before I could
get near enough. Not so the cow behind. I
gave her two balls and brought her to a stand,
two more and Brahim one, and dead she fell.
I rushed after the bull, but, though streams of
#;
■\
-!■>..
"U
?-.
if '
^^^
* :
,J-
'■«".<
^
«x
3.
A /I Elephant Killed. 193
blood marked his track, I had not time to come
up with him. After the meat had been cut up
we resumed our way. I had an exciting chase
after eland and zebra, and finally lodged a
bullet in a wild boar ; the men giving him his
despatch. One man stayed behind at the
elephant ; I sent after him at night, but he
could not be seen, and the next morning he
was found dead.
^^ Friday, September iSt/i. — After leaving
camp we soon entered a deep valley, and had
to bore our wav through haunts of wild beasts,
and sometimes to climb steep boulders. After
a bit a rhinoceros was seen at the foot of a
tree. I advanced close up to it, followed by
Jones and Brahim, and fired. Up it jumped,
and proved to be a cow with a calf sleeping by
her. I have no doubt that I struck the
ground, as I fired low for the heart, thinking
her to be standing ; the others, perhaps, did
the same.
" We have altogether lost our way, and have
got into a dreadful hole in the Lykipia hills ;
nor can I yet see the way out for a day or two^
The place seems to swarm with buffaloes
194 The Last jfournaL
rhinoceroses, and elephants, but we don't see
them.
" Saturday^ September \Q)th. — After crossing
the river ten times in about two hours, we
climbed a tremendous hill, only to find our-
selves surrounded by very deep valleys with
nothing to do but to descend and climb again.
We then found ourselves upon a wide-stretch-
ing lava field with water nowhere to be seen ;
and, as we had been crossing the river so
frequently and left it quite unexpectedly,
nobody had carried water, and the heat on the
black lava was terrific. Views of Baringo and
the Njemps plain, and Lykipia hills w^ere very
beautiful. We made our wav down another
J
terribly stony lava field, where I shot an eland
bull. We then came to another escarpment,
and had to circumnavigate for ever so far to
find a track to descend. At the foot was a
beautiful stream. Many of the men did not
reach it till two hours after sunset. I think I
never had a harder day's march, and was dread-
fullv exhausted.
J
" Sunday^ September 20th. — I seem to see
now why we lost our way. The elephant and
Njcmps^ Lake Baringo^ etc. 195
eland gave us meat and saved our corn, so now
we can keep Sunday in a beautiful spot, with-
out natives, in peace and quiet. Otherwise we
should have been in Njemps, in the thick of
\vorry and bustle. The heat is very intense,
as Baringo lies in a deep hole. We have
descended 3,000 feet since last Sunday.
" We had our two pleasant Services, and the
day passed in the most absolute rest and
peace. I don't think that I left the tent fifty
yards' distance all day and spent a goodly time,
stretched on my back in quiet contemplation,
and sweet dreams of dear ones at home, and
oft longing, oft wondering whether I shall be
permitted to see them.
^^ Monday y September 2 ist. — After crossing in
about two hours and a half a rich plain thickly
strewn with umbrella mimosa, we reached
Njemps. Another stage in our journey safely
accomplished. The people are Wa-Kwafi, a
tribe of Masai, and are most friendlv, but our
attempts to purchase food were futile. It is
almost a rule everywhere, that nothing is to
be got on the first day. Fortunately we had
sufficient provisions in hand, though I should
196 The Last Journal.
have been glad to have kept it in reserve.
The river was swarming with fish, which kept
our men usefully employed.
^^ Tuesday, September 22nd. — We settled our
hongo question to-day, which was looked upon
on both sides as voluntary. In fact, nothing
could exceed the friendliness of the people.
The market was fairly brisk in Mtama only,
and a few rhinoceros horns were brought to us
for sale. As we had rested all Sunday and
had a short day's march yesterday, I determined
to press on ; so at one o'clock a move was
made. Our route lay across a dry sandy, or
rather mud, plain, thinly strewn with trees
and grass patches, swarming with game
and intensely hot. In about two hours
the Tigirish was reached, and here we are
camped. Many of the Wa-Kwafi followed us
and brought things to sell. I quite agree
with Thomson that they have deteriorated,
or else never did compare for beauty with
their Masai brethren.
" Wednesday, September 2'^rd. — At dayhght
we started and had beautiful views of Baringo.
A very rough and trying road led to Kamasia,
Kamasia.
197
The people live on the top of the hills, and
announced our arrival by a kind of Indian
coee-coee, and, as soon as we camped, came
trooping down upon us in tolerable numbers.
They were exceedingly pleasant and were
satisfied with a small present, taking it without
Western Escarpment^ Kamasia.
demur. They are handsome and well-to-do,
and remind me much of the Masai. A war
dance was executed in my honour, but was
interrupted by a boy who had a most fearful
fit. We found great diflficulty in buying any-
thing • to-day. To-morrow, to-morrow, was
the cry. The camping-ground is very prettily
198 The Last 'journal.
situated under a large sycamore-tree, from
which it takes the SwahiH name, Mukuyu-ni,
^^ Thursday, September 2^th. — We here
began to enter the heart of Kamasia, and a
more lovely country I have seldom seen ; the
views are simply magnificent, and the vegeta-
tion is very like that of Europe in several of
its appearanoes. There seems to be a large
population, but though the forest is luxuriant,
they can only grow a kind of millet. We
paid hongo twice, and camped near a lovely
Devonshire-like stream, after ascending and
descending various hills and dales with shock-
ing roads. We have now gained an elevation
of about 6,000 feet. The people continue to
be most amiable. We dined off porcupine
and found it delicious.
^''Friday, September 2^th. — People literally
came all night to sell flour, in spite of a vain
attempt on our part to drive them to their
homes. However, there was no anxiety about
their stealing, they appear singularly honest.
We opened a brisk market before daylight,
and then I started with the caravan, leaving
Jones to continue to buy.
The Escarpment of Elegeyo. 199
" After mounting a severe hill we descended
into a deep valley and camped opposite
Elegeyo, which stands up as a wall 9,000 feet
hioh, and has to be surmounted next week.
We paid a small Iioiigo three times, and did
not find the people quite so amiable here as
they have been, but I think it was our owm
fault. The elders would not listen to my
advice and stop when wanted to.
i\-n _
■^.
Lava Cap of Elegeyo Escarpment.
^^ Saturday, September 26///. — Descending
the western escarpment we crossed a rich
plain, though apparently uninhabited, the
people on both sides living on the hills.
Guinea-fowl, partridges, and especially quail,
200 The Last Journal.
swarmed. I had an exciting chase after a
buffalo, and a rhinoceros broke away at an-
other time close to me.
'' The men at the tail of the caravan fell in
with bees again, and got utterly routed. I
was more fortunate.
"At about noon we arrived at a pretty spot
near the eastern escarpment, and with great
difficulty got the men to camp at a distance.
"The people here are related to the Wa-
Kamasia, but are more noisy, and demand
rather more ; however, they gave us little or
no trouble.
" Sunday. September I'jth. — We had finished
all OLir buying last week, so we were able to
have a very quiet Sunday. A fresh band came
asking for hongo. At first I refused to pay
any attention to them, as I felt sure some
Wa-Kwafi who are living here w^ere urging them
on ; but finding we should have no peace, I gave
way, and made them a small present. We had
our two Services ; and feasted on tough goat,
millet, and honey — the products of the land.
" As a sign how tired one can be, on Friday
last, when going to bed, I took a bite from a
A Climb of 8,000 Feet 201
biscuit, and fell asleep with the first mouthful
still in my mouth and the rest in my hand.
''Monday, September 2W1. — We began
almost at once a fierce climb of the magni-
ficent escarpment. It looked all along very
steep and difficult ; and Thomson had written
so much about it, that, like many other diffi-
culties, it turned out to be much less than I
had expected.
" We succeeded in covering two of his
marches and reached not only the top, 8,000
feet, but also the outskirts of the gorgeous forest
that crowns it. The sub-vegetation is exceed-
ingly English — peppermint, white clover,
pink orchis, etc. Soon after camping we felt
the cold very keenly, and were glad to nestle
near the fire and retire early to our blankets.
" Tuesday, September 2C)th. — Fortunately
there was neither wind or fog, and so the men
did not suffer from cold. I have an exceed-
ingly bad stye, and can scarce see with my
right eye. We began to cross a very treeless
plain with a certain amount of wild beasts
upon it. I suppose through the day one never
looked up without seeing something far or
202 The Last Journal.
near, but I shot nothing. I tried to take a
short cut, but found a huge swamp in the way,
which we had to encircle. About three p.m.
we reached a sheltered nook with a little fire-
wood, and here we camped. A heavy
thunderstorm threatened in the distance,
from which we only got a few drops of rain.
Truly God is gracious to us ! *
" Wednesday^ September 30///. — We con-
tinued our march across the plain, which now
has become dotted with trees. Large herds of
hartebeeste (the South African variety), dot
the landscape, and an immense herd of buffaloes
appeared in the distance. Arriving at length
at a beautiful wood, I come across a troop of
the lovely and rare Colobus Guereza monkey,
and had the good fortune, after an exciting
chase, to bring down the leader — a magnificent
specimen.
"We camped just below at the junction of
two rivers, in a very sheltered nook.
''''Thursday^ October 1st. — We broke away
from Thomson's route to-day, going more to
* See Life, p. 352, for the effect of continuous heavy
rain upon the coast porters.
Crossing the River Kiboruui. 203
the north to avoid crossing the river so many
times. A huge herd of buffaloes being sighted,
I gave leave to two men to go in chase, not
feelinfT well enou2:h to do so mvself. Pre-
sently, while sitting quietly under a tree, we
heard a tremendous stampede. My boys
rushed round me in terror, hampering my
movements ; otherwise I should have had a
splendid shot at two buffaloes which had
dashed straight for the tree.
" When we reached our camp I found that a
sick man had been left far behind, having
refused to be carried. I was very much
upset, and decided to send back. He was
found dead.
" We reached the river Kiborum very late in
the evening. Many sick and weary.
^^ Friday^ October 2nd. — To-day we en-
deavoured to cross the swift, deep river, but
after several attempts we had to hold on our
way downwards, and at length found a spot
where some elephants had crossed and where
the current was a little less rapid, though
even here the water was chest deep. The
shiftlessness of nearly all the Rabai and
204 The Last jfoiirnal.
Frere Town men was here apparent. In fact,
out of the whole caravan about twenty men
had to undertake the work of getting the loads
over ; consequently the time occupied was
enormous, and we had scarcely completed
when night set in. In a few days' time we
ought to be crossing a much bigger stream.
We camped immediately after we had got all
over, and can scarce be said to have made any
progress.
" Saturday^ October yd. — Our track lay
through very long grass to-day, and there
were numerous small streams to cross with
beautiful clear pools like Dartmoor rills ; a
shrub covered with magnificent camelia-like
blossoms was common ; and the distant undu-
lating hills made a very pretty landscape.
"We crossed a long valley and ascended a
rather sharp hill, and theie lay Kavirondo
before us.
'As when the weary traveller gains
The height of some o'er-looking hill,
His heart revives if 'cross the plain
He sees the goal, though distant still.'
" We next lost our w^ay in the dense, tall grass,
Swaliili Slave-raids. 205
and finally camped for the night in a shel-
tered nook. Food having almost run out we
must move on if nothing prevent to-morrow.
" Sunday, October^ ^ih. — We arrived at
Kabaras, the first village of Kavirondo, about
nine. The Swahili have assents here carrvina:
on one of their abominable slave raids, but,
through the mercy of God, the people received
us very kindly after the edge of suspicion had
been taken off by my going up to them and
sitting down in their midst and refreshing
myself with a Huntley and Palmer's biscuit.
They say they have famine here from the w^ar,
but enough and to spare soon flow^ed in for
the men. The people seem particularly
friendlv, and free from suspicion and roguery,
and I do all 1 can to make them understand
that I have nothing to do with the Swahili.
Having heard about this fighting in Elegeyo
from many different quarters, we were rather
anxious lest they should attempt to wreak
vengeance upon us. And who could blame
them ? I felt, however, that the good hand of
our God was upon us, and at once went fear-
lessly on in front into their very midst.
2o6 The Last Journal.
^^Monday^ October ^th. — The people were
still very friendly, so I remained until nine to
buy a few things from them, but I thought that
it would be better to get off early as the men
seemed inclined to scatter. Arriving at a river
we found it to be literallv alive with fish, and
so rested for half-an-hour to have a haul.
Every mile, or even less, we came to a fresh
village, but everywhere met with a friendly
and kind reception. Thomson, who has inno-
cently been rather a bugbear lately, was
more than ever so to-day. As my leading
men were with him I must needs do every-
thing that he did, and follow his route slavishly.
This afternoon I wanted to stop. No,
Thomson had not stopped here ; consequently
we got overtaken in a fearful thunderstorm
which literally drenched us, and we had to
take refuge in a very dirty little village, startling
the poor inhabitants out of their wits. We
had a feast to-night of sweet potatoes and
fried white ants, which are by no means un-
palatable, and greatly prized by the natives.
" Tuesday^ October 6th. — We started at dav-
break and found ourselves in a vet more
Kiva-Sakiva. 207
densely populated district, but almost every-
where, on our approach, the inhabitants fled
into their mud-walled cities and shut the
doors, talking to us over the walls. In one
place where I ordered a rest, they came out
and sold milk and honey ; and at another place
I hired a guide, as a great part of the morning
had been wasted in following by-paths. At
length three of Sakwa's warriors approached
us, learnt who we were, and dashed off" with
the news. Then a body-guard arrived, and I
was conducted in great state to Sakwa, a
grand old man with twenty lusty sons. He
gave me leave to camp where I liked, so I
chose a spot outside the village. The usual
present had to be sent, but there w^as no
rumpus about it, and both chief and people
seem very amiable. I politely refused an ox,
as you only let loose the reins of incessant
begging and dissatisfaction on both sides if you
accept presents.
" Wednesday, October jih. — The chief
wanted me to stay three days. I promised to
remain to-day as it seems to fit in with our
arrangements. Sakwa is a very kindly disposed
2o8 The Last journal.
old man, and although his sons beg for him, they
have an agreeable way of doing it, which makes
one more disposed to give. Our own men
have been very trying and troublesome, and
one or two bad cases of stealing have come to
light. Amongst these people are a large
number of refugee Wa-Kwafi, who are doing
theWa-Kavirondo no good, but imparting Masai
manners to them. Naturallv the natives seem
to be most good-natured and polite to strangers,
and are by no means importunate. Another
bad element among them is that of the
runaways from caravans, who teach them
Swahili ways. Then there are the abominable
slave caravans. O that we might possess fair
Kavirondo for Christ !
"I enjoyed a day of tolerable quiet, feasting
on millet flour and honey, milk, and sweet
potatoes. The village is clean and picturesque.
^^ Thursday, October %th. — To-day we moved
on to our head-quarters and the so-called
terminus of this route, Kwa-Sundu ; and the
good God has brought me thus far without one
day's ill-health or fever. I have had head-
aches, a few internal pains, such as happen in
Kiva-Sundu. 209
everyday life, and have been occasionally a
little poorly, and often fatigued, but not once
anything like ill. How thankful I ought to be !
We reached Kwa-Sundu in about three hours,
and were received by the young chief at the
gates of his village. First experience would
speak of him as a quiet, meek man, and his
people likewise ; and the place is a very nice one
for head-quarters, and seems more healthy as
regards situation than any other spot I have
seen in Kavirondo. Food seems plentiful, but
not abundant to any extraordinary degree, as
I had been led to suppose. I have pitched
camp outside the village. Standing about in
the sun to-day I have got a sunstroke in my
foot through sock and boot, which in a few
minutes has given me great pain, so that I can
scarcely hobble about.
''''Friday^ October <^th, — Quite incapacitated
by my foot, and scarcely able to move off my
bed. However, it did not hinder me from
repacking and arranging my things for a start
with fifty men to the lake. I rather doubt,
however, if I shall be able to go for some days.
The chief is exceedingly anxious that I should
210 The Last J^ouriial,
make medicine for his enemies, who keep him
in constant terror. He is also more than
willing that a white man should come and
teach his people. They seem intelligent, in
spite of the utter nakedness of both men and
women, the women being even nuder than the
men. Looking at the pictures in Thomson's
book, they were able to make minute dis-
tinctions in the various figures which he has
illustrated, and were especially delighted with
the Kavirondo women.* There is no great
variety of food to obtained.
^^ Saturday, October loth. — I am still almost
confined to my bed, though perfectly well in
health. I do not think I shall be able to move
on Monday. It may just be the Lord's way of
showing me I am to stop here a little longer
for some unforeseen cause. My times are in
His hands. The people here are very little
trouble to us, although a good many come
round about my tent and watch my every
move. The only ones who are inclined to be
overbearing are the refugee Wa-Kwafi. The
chief has been absent all day making medicine
* Through Masai-Land^ P- 475-
Confined to Bed. 211
for rain, which is much needed. I have been
busy preparing to start, and am compelled to
hope that there will be no rain until I have
crossed the rivers ahead, one or two of which
are very large.
''Sunday, October nth.—WQ held both our
Services to-day in perfect peace, nobody inter-
rupting us. In fact, the whole day passed
very pleasantly, notwithstanding our numerous
visitors. The Wa-Kwafi are the only trouble-
some ones ; they all beg incessantly, and are
very noisy.
" This would be a splendid place, in my esti-
mation, for a mission-station. Not only are
you in the the heart of Kavirondo, but also
amongst a vast number of Wa-Kwafi, who are
simply north-country Masai, pure and simple.
We did our buying yesterday, so to-day we
have been able to refuse trade of any kind,
which often, as regards food, is impossible. 1
am still confined to the outside of my bed, but
yet am able to announce a certain amount of
hope as to my starting to-morrow. Everybody
is to hold himself ready.
CHAPTER X.
(OCTOBER i2th— 29th.)
Through U-Soga to the Nile.
" God is never so far off
As even to be near." — Faber.
''Monday^ October y 12th. — At daylight, and
almost before, I made a dash at my boot,
and, with fear and trembling, laced it up
and put foot to the ground. I stood, I
walked, and without great pain ; so I organ-
ised a start. The passage of the river which
flows close by occupied till about eleven
o'clock,* and by this time my foot was painful.
However, I climbed the opposite hill intending
to camp, descended the valley beyond, thinking
rather less about it ; then village after village
was left behind, and at length I discovered
that our guide had taken us by a roundabout
way in order to reach his father's village.
* " The Nzoia rushes fiercely over a rocky bed three
feet deep." Through Masai-Land, p. 488.
Start with Fifty Picked Men. 213
This was more than I could stand, especially
as the men were siding with him, so, in spite of
my lameness, I pulled myself together and
arrived at Mtinde's at five p.m., tired but none
the worse.
" Crowds of people surrounded me, and the
elders of the village were slightly tipsy and
very noisy, but I camped outside. Dark
drove them away. The situation is very
picturesque. There is an immense Masai
town close at hand.
v^*
w
,f!%
Samia, in U-Soga.
" Tuesday, October i^^th. — I called the men
very early and got off before people were
astir, as I expected the chief would try and
delay us with excuses as to giving me an ox.
214 The Last J-ournaL
And no sooner had I started than men were
sent to ask me to return ; but I pushed on,
and a guide was sent to conduct me to the
next chief. Our direction was nearly due
westjwhich brought us to the south of the Samia
Hills ; and about one or half-past we arrived
at a large village, and learnt that the chief had
gone out to fight. About sunset he returned,
and announced we must stay two days. To
this I objected, and said that we would talk
about that when I returned. He then annouced
his intention of accompanying me to the lake,
and acting as our guide.
'' Wednesday ^ October i^th. — I again started
before people were about, but was soon pursued
and asked to await the sultan. After going
some little distance I did so. He said that it
was too cold to go on, he wanted cloth. Mind-
ful of our other experiences I objected. He
then led the way across the Sio — a direction I
did not want to take. Next he stopped and said
the sun was very hot, he wanted cloth. This
I declined to give. After a long march I
found that villages were getting scarce, and
made anxious inquiries about food ahead, and
Esau accompanies J^acob.
215
was assured that there were plenty of villages
before us. CHmbing a hill the lake burst
suddenly upon us, long before I expected it, for
hills that I saw miles away proved to be islands.
We were to the west of the deep Sio Bay.*
Village in ,Sa»iia.
Marching on until two p.m., and within half an
hour from the lake, we discovered that the
Wa-Ganda had recently attached the Samia
coasts, and that all the people had fled. The
places at which Thomson had stayed were
* This was Mr. Thomson's furthest point.
2i6 The Last yoiirnal.
now desolate. So instead of reaching the lake
just for the poetry of the thing, I prosaically
turned back to the villages. We had only just
camped when down came the rain terrifically.
This has been a day of great fatigue and of no
small anxiety, since Esau was again conducting
Jacob.
^^ Thursday, October i^th. — The chief came
first thing, and made exorbitant demands for
cloth, guns, and powder. I had previously
arranged to stay here the day and collect food,
and send men back to what was Massalatosee
if I could get any news ; but the attitude of
the chief being so unpleasant, I dealt out beads
to the men, told them to buy two days' food,
and prepare to fly the country for the Nile.
The beads I had served out took the fancy of
the people, and food flowed in in plenty. The
chief now forbade us to move, and made further
demands, I told him to come and take all I
had. I laughed at him, packed up my things
and started, going up to him and shaking his
hand, and wishing him good-bye with a super-
cilious smile. I then struck in a western
direction, crossing one or two strong roads to
Extortionate Chiefs, 217
the north. We soon found we were in a compar-
atively waterless country, so different to our late
experience, or even to the district of yesterday.
So at about twelve, we struck towards some
deserted villages, and came across a dirty pool
of water with which we had to be satisfied.
We next entered forest regions swarming with
elephants. At about four o'clock, as rain
threatened, we camped near another dirty
pool and were soon in the midst of the almost
daily evening storm.
^^ Friday^ October i6th. — We started with the
idea that no food was to be got for three days,
so espying a quantity of banana trees (we had
passed lots yesterday with no fruit), we thought
we would try again. We were just about to
help ourselves to abundant fruit, when lo ! a
man appeared, and we found that we had
reached a village, where we were most kindly
received by people calling themselves Wa-Kori.
No doubt this is Akola of our maps. They
were so pleasant that our men began congratu-
lations. Wait, said I, till we come across the
elders. The headman of this village then
said he must take us to the sultan, and as it
2i8 The Last J^ournaL
was in a westerly direction I agreed. We
started well enough and soon found ourselves
in a densely populated country, then we began
to turn off, reached the village of an elder and
were delayed. Then at another village our
guides, who had increased, asked leave to eat.
I found they meant drink ; and in a short time
they were half drunk. Foreseeing danger, I
grew firm and started alone, but they followed
and led on, or rather off, to another village
where they asked leave to eat again. I now
tried to get information, and found that my
own interpreter was drunk. It was then about
four p.m., I was dead knocked up, when they
brought us to a village which they said was the
sultan's, but that he was making pombe. I
asked leave to camp, but was refused. After
we had waited an hour, and seeing that the
usual storm was impending, I said that I would
have our things unfastened, but just then the
said sultan appeared, himself drunk, and said
that he would show us where to camp. We
followed and pitched our tents. Then a
drunken brawl took place between two parties
on my account, which led me to see that there
War Drums, 219
was no sultan in reality. Presently they
themselves confessed there was not.
*'As soon as it was dark some attempts were
made to pillage. The war drums were beaten
in one or two quarters, so that I went to bed
feeling very uncomfortable.
^^ Saturday^ October I'jth. — Pinto* screamed
in his sleep ! He does so from time to time.
I sprang out of bed, could find no matches, no
boots, no shoes, so I rushed out barefoot, only
to find all still and to guess what it was. I
called the men very early to get off before the
drunkards of yesterday were about, but they
must needs delay most provokingly. How-
ever, we got off, and I undertook to lead.
Presently the caravan pulled up: a message was
brought from the pretended sultan that we
should await him. I refused to do so, and
refused a guide. A dense population appeared
everywhere. They are friendly and show no
fright at our approach. To the surprise of all
of us we struck the lake at about ten a.m., we
had, in fact, run out on a headland before we
knew we were even near to it, for again distant
* The Bishop's cook and body-servant.
220 The Last jfournal.
islands deceived us. I found an enormous
market in full swing, and canoes from the islands,
but none of my inquiries satisfied me as to where
we were, though I have strong suspicions that
we have only reached a deep inlet opposite
the M in Utamba of Thomson's map. They
said we must go to the sultan, who was close
at hand. To my horror we then turned due
east, and so continued for an hour. I suddenly
struck, especially as I heard he was gone to
make pombe, and was on the verge of returning
in spite of the danger, when lo ! he appeared.
A better-looking man this time, but I am con-
vinced only a village or district elder. We
are in the midst of awful swamps, and
mosquitoes as savage as bees, but I have made
up my mind to stop till over Sunday if the
way is made plain, as I may incapacitate my-
self by overwalking. The Lord keep me
from fever ! The chief was very friendly and
gave us no trouble at all ; in fact, all the
people here are singularly nice ; however, I
shall wait until I get away before I pronounce
finally on the chief. I remember Romwa ! *
* Life^ 259 — 262. (Cheap Ed., 225.)
LicreasvKT Troubles. 221
"t)
^^Siinday, October \^th. — I can hear nothing
about the Nile ; nobody has heard of a river
running north, nor of the Ripon Falls, so I
judge the distance to be greater than we think.
The country is exceedingly fertile and beau-
tiful, swarming with banana groves, and very
like Uzinza, broken up with beautiful low
rocky hills. The leap from Samia, which is
dry, treeless, sterile-looking at this time of the
year, was most marked. So also with the
people. From an utterly naked people, we
found ourselves amongst a tribe loaded with
tapper cloth and skins, and most eager for coast
cloth, and scarcely wearing any ornaments at all.
Everywhere they hold large markets. One of
them is enormous. Articles — bananas in all
stages and states except ripe, fish, cloth, and
tobacco. There are no cows, and only a few
goats, but chickens are abundant. Yesterday I
caught sight of Elgon, N.E., and of the south
point of the Samia range about S.E. Elgon per-
haps thirty- five miles distant. Samia twenty
miles distant, scarcely so much. We have un-
avoidably made terrible circuits. I have but
little doubt that my conjecture of yesterday was
2 22 The Last Journal.
right — these are the Wa-Kola of Thomson's
map. They call themselves Wa-Kori. I passed
a very restful and pleasant day, although it was
difficult not to fidget myself nervous about the
swamps and bad water. The nearer I get the
more anxious I seem, wrongly, to be about
arriving, though I am sure I ought not to be so,
since God has been so very gracious to me,
and has thus far led me by the hand.
^^ Monday, October i(^th. — The so-called
sultan of this place insisted on sending guides
to accompany me. They struck due south with
a shadow of east. Against this I rebelled and
insisted on taking westerly roads, and presently
they confessed that they wished to avoid
U-Soga, but that it was much shorter. Then
some Wa-Ganda came out to meet us, and were
inclined to be impudent, so I refused to listen
to them and passed on for a bit. Then others
instituted themselves as our guides, and again
insisted on our stopping for a so-called sultan.
This again I refused. Presently we came to
symptoms of war, and finally we fell in with a
Wa-Ganda mob sent to subdue and settle in
U-Soga. Their excitement at seeing me was
Pushing a Way through. 223
intense. Many of them knew Mackay. Most
of their leaders were drunk, and in a most
dangerous mood, coming round me, shouting
and yelHng, and ordering me about. Where-
upon I took the high hand, and, in spite of
overwhehning numbers, I refused to stop,
shook my list in the faces of the most noisy,
gathered my scattered men, and pushed
through the mob. Once clear we retreated at
a rapid pace, twisting and turning in all
manner of directions to avoid pursuit. All the
neighbourhood is decimated by war ; hundreds
of fine banana trees cut down and huge bunches
lying about rotting. Our men had a full meal.
We camped between the two war parties. I
could hear them both, and was in a very
dangerous situation, as it was dark and my
men such fools they would not keep still.
" Tuesday^ October 20th. — Through the
mercy of God — and every step of the way is
through His mercy — nothing happened during
the night, but I fear we have arrived in a
troublesome country. However, we passed
on very quietly, I being guide, until we most
unfortunately asked questions about the Nile,
2 24 The Last journal.
and were told it was too far to reach
the same day, and that we must sleep at a
chiefs called Lubwa, which was on the direct
road. This set us asking for Lubwa's, and at
last I was fool enough to let a man guide us.
Instantly he took us to another chief ; and it
was then too late, when I found out the error,
to proceed further. We have, however, made
fine progress to-day, and almost in the right
direction that should bring us to the Nile, near
about the Ripon Falls ; and I don't think I am
much out in my reckoning. Here at least we
seem to have peace for a night.
^^ Wednesday, October 2\st. — About half an
hour brought us to Lubwa's. His first demand,
in a most insolent tone, was for ten guns and
three barrels of powder ; this, of course, I
refused. They then demanded that I should
stay three days ; this I refused, and when the
same demands were made, I jumped up and
said, ' I go back the way I came.' Meantime
the war drums beat. More than a thousand
soldiers were assembled. My men implored
me not to move, but, laughing at them, I
pushed them and the loads through the crowd
Liihwas. 225
and turned back. Then came an imploring
message that I would stay but for a short time.
I refused to hear till several messages had
arrived ; then, thinking things were turning
my way, I consented ; said I would give a
small present and pass. My present was
returned, and a demand made that I would
stay one day ; to this I consented, because I
fancy this man can send me on in canoes
direct to Mwanga's capital, and save a week's
march. Presently seven guns were stolen
from us ; at this I pretended to rejoice ex-
ceedingly, since I should demand restoration
not from these men, but from Mwanga. A
soldier w^as placed to guard me in my tent, and
follow me if I moved an inch. I climbed a
neighbouring hill, and to my joy, saw a splendid
view of the Nile, onlv about half an hour's
distance, country being beautiful ; deep creeks
of the lake visible to the south. I presently
asked leave to go to the Nile. This was
denied me. I afterwards asked my headman,
Brahim, to come with me to the point close at
hand whence I had seen the Nile, as our men
had begun to doubt its existence ; several
226 The Last Journal.
followed up, and one, pretending to show me
another view, led me further away, when
suddenly about twenty ruffians set upon us.
They violently threw me to the ground, and
proceeded to strip me of all valuables. Think-
ing they were robbers, I shouted for help,
when they forced me up and hurried me away,
as I thought, to throw me down a precipice
close at hand. I shouted again, in spite of
one threatening to kill me with a club. Twice
I nearly broke away from them, and then grew
faint with struggling, and was dragged by the
legs over the ground. I said, ' Lord, I put
myself in Thy hands, I look to Thee alone.'
Then another struggle, and I got on to my
feet, and was thus dashed along. More than
once I was violently brought into contact with
banana trees, some trying in their haste to
force me one way, others the other, and the
exertion and struggling strained me in the most
agonising manner. In spite of all, and feeling
I was being dragged away to be murdered at
a distance, I sang ' Safe in the arms of Jesus,'
and then laughed at the very agony of my
situation. My clothes torn to pieces so that I
Betrayed. 227
was exposed ; wet through with being dragged
along the ground ; strained in every Hmb, and
for a whole hour expecting instant death,
hurried along, dragged, pushed, at about five
miles an hour, until we came to an hut, into
the court of which I was forced. Now, I
thought, I am to be murdered. As they
released one hand, I drew my finger across my
throat, and understood them to say decidedly,
No. We then made out that I had been seized
by order of the sultan. Then arose a new
agony. Were all my men murdered ? Another
two or three hours' awful suspense, during
which time I was kept bound and shivering
v/ith cold, when to my joy, Pinto (the Portu-
guese cook) and a boy were brought with my
bed and bedding, and I learnt that the sultan
meant to keep me prisoner until he had received
word from Mwanga, which means, I fear, a
week or more's delay, nor can I tell whether
they are speaking the truth. I am in God's
hands."
The man who enticed the Bishop away
from his followers, a few of whom had accom-
panied him to the summit of the hill, was one
2 28 The Last J^oiirnal.
Masudi bin Suleiman, a renegade Moham-
medan, who has renounced his race and creed,
and cast in his lot with the heathen. He is
well known as a violent opponent of Chris-
tianity in U-Ganda. The Bishop was dragged
by a circuitous route to the village ; but one
of the men, who happened to be wandering, was
a horrified witness of his master's fate. He ran
to tell his companions, and soon all was con-
fusion and dismay. The panic-stricken men
lost all nerve, and some of their goods were at
once scrambled for by the natives. They
were then all seized and detained as prisoners.
The Bishop continues :
^^ Thursday, October 22nd. — I found myself,
perhaps about ten o'clock last night, on my
bed in a fair-sized hut, but with no ventilation,
a fire on the hearth, no chimney for smoke,
about twenty men all round me, and rats and
vermin ad lib.; fearfully shaken, strained in
every limb ; great pain, and consumed with
thirst, I got little sleep that night. Pinto may
cook my food, and I have been allowed to have
my Bible and writing things also, I hear the
men are in close confinement but safe, and the
A Prisoner. 229
loads, except a few small things, intact. Up
to one o'clock I have received no news what-
ever, and I fear at least a week in this black
hole, in which I can barely see to write.
Floor covered with rotting banana peel and
leaves and lice. Men relieving nature at night
on the floor ; a smoking fire, at which my
guards cook and drink pombe ; in a feverish
district ; fearfully shaken, scarce power to
hold up small Bible. Shall I live through it ?
Mv God, I am thine.
" Towards evening I was allowed to sit out-
side for a little time and enjoyed the fresh air ;
but it made matters worse when I went inside
my prison again, and as I fell exhausted on
my bed I burst into tears — health seems to
be quite giving way with the shock. I fear
I am in a very caged-lion frame of mind, and
yet so strained and shattered that it is with the
utmost difiiculty I can stand ; yet I ought to
be praising His Holy name, and I do.
" Not allowed a knife to eat my food with.
The savages who guard me keep up an un-
ceasing strain of raillery, or at least I fancy
they do, about the Mzungu.
230 The Last journal.
''Friday^ October 2yrd. — I woke full of pain
and weak, so that with the utmost difficulty I
crawled outside and sat in a chair, and vet
they guard every move as if I were a giant.
My nerves, too, have received such a shock
that, some loud yells and war cries arising out-
side the prison fence, I expected to be
murdered, and simply turned over and said :
' Let the Lord do as He sees fit ; I shall not
make the slightest resistance.' Seeing how
bad I am, they have sent my tent for me to use
in the daytime. Going outside I fell to the
ground exhausted, and was helped back in a
gone condition to my bed. I don't see how I
can stand all this, and yet I don't want to give
in, but it almost seems as if U-Ganda itself was
going to be forbidden ground to me — the
Lord only knows. Afternoon. — To my sur-
prise my guards came kneeling down, so
different to their usual treatment, and asked
me to come out. I came out, and there was
the chief and about a hundred of his wives
come to feast their eyes on me in cruel
curiosity. I felt inclined to spring at his
throat, but sat still, and presently read to
Sick and Shattered. 231
myself Matthew v. 44, 45, and felt refreshed.
I asked how many more days he meant to keep
me in prison. He said four more at least. He
agreed, upon my earnest request, to allow me
to sleep in my own tent, with two armed
soldiers at each door. The object of his visit
was to ask that I would say no bad things of
him to Mwanga. What can I say good ? I
made no answer to the twice repeated request.
He then said if I would write a short letter,
and promise to say nothing bad, he would send
it at once. I immediately wrote a hasty
scrawl (I scarce know what), but said I was
prisoner, and asked Mackay to come. God
grant it may reach. But I already feel better
than I have done since my capture, though
still very shattered.
" Saturday, October 24///. — Thank God for a
pleasant night in my own tent, in spite of a
tremendous storm and rain flowing in on the
floor in streams. Personally I quite forgave
this old man and his agents for my rough
treatment, though even to-day I can only move
with the greatest discomfort, and ache as
though I had rheumatic fever. I have, how-
232 The Last jfoiirnal.
ever, to consider the question in another Hght ;
if the matter is passed over unnoticed, it
appears to me the safety of all white travellers
in these districts will be endangered, so I shall
leave the brethren who know the country and
are most affected to act as they think best.
The day passed away very quietly. I amused
mvself with Bible and diarv.
'^Sunday\ October 2^th. — (Fourth day of
imprisonment.) Still a great deal of pain in
my limbs. The fatigue of dressing quite
knocks me over. My guards, though at times
they stick to me like leeches, and, with two
rifles in hand, remain at night in my tent, are
gradually getting more careless. I have already
seen opportunities of escape, had I wanted so to
do, and I doubt not that in a few days' time,
especially if I could get a little extra pombe
brought to them, I could walk away quite
easily, but I have no such intention. I should
be the more inclined to stop should they say
go, to be a thorn in the old gentleman's side,
and I fear from that feeling of contrariness
which is rather inborn. I send him affectionate
greetings and reports on my health bv his
My White-man. 233
messencjers twice a day. What I fear most
now is the close confinement and utter want
of exercise. When I was ahnost beginning to
think of my time in prison as getting short the
chief has sent men to redouble the fence
around me. What does it mean ? I have
shown no desire or intention of escaping.
Has a messenger arrived from Mwanga ?
There is just time for him to have sent w^ord
to tell them to hold me fast. The look of this
has cast me down again.
"One of my guards, if I understand him
rightly, is making me offers of escape. He has
something very secret to communicate, and
will not even take mv bov into confidence. I
do not, however, want to escape under the
present circumstances ; but at the same time
I take great amusement in watching and
passing by various little opportunities. My
guards and I are great friends, almost affec-
tionate, and one speaks of me as ' My white-
man.'
"Three detachments of the chief's wives, they
say he has a thousand nearly, have been to-day
to see me. They are very quiet and well.
2 34 T^^ic. Last journal.
behaved, but greatly amused at the prisoner.
Mackay's name seems quite an household
word ; I constantly hear it.
" My men are kept in close confinement,
except two who come daily backwards and
forwards to brino: mv food. This thev take in
turns, and implore, so I hear, for the job.
" Monday^ October 2(:>th. — (Fifth day in
prison.) Limbs and bruises and stiffness better,
but I am heavy and sleepy. Was not inclined
to get up as usual, and if I mistake not, signs
of fever creep over me. Mackay should get
my letter to-day, and sufficient time has passed
for the chief to receive an answer to his first
message sent before I was seized, the nature of
which I know not, probably ' White man is
stopping here. Shall I send him on ? Waiting
your Majesty's pleasure.' If they do not guess
who it is they will very likely, African fashion,
talk about it two or three days first of all, and
then send a message back leisurely with
Mwanga's permission for me to advance.
"About thirty-three more of the chief's wives
came and disported themselves with gazing at
the prisoner. I was very poorly and utterly
Stared at. 235
disinclined to pay any attention to them, and
said in English, ' O ladies, if you knew how ill
I feel, you would go.' When my food arrived
in the middle of the day I was unable to eat.
The first time, I think, since leaving the coast
I have refused a meal. To-day I am very
broken down both in health and spirits, and
some of the murmuring feelings which I
thought that I had conquered have returned
hard upon me. Another party of wives
coming, I retired into the hut and declined to
see them. A third party came later on, and,
being a little better, I came out and lay upon
my bed. It is not pleasant to be examined as
a caged lion in the Zoo, and yet that is exactly
my state at the present time. My tent is
jammed in between the hut and the high fence
of the Boma, so scarce a breath of air reaches
me. Then at night, though the tent is a vast
improvement on the hut, yet two soldiers,
reeking with pombe and other smells, sleep
beside me, and the other part of my guard, not
far short of twenty, laugh and drink and shout
far into the night and begin again before day-
light in the morning, waking up from time to
236 The Last journal.
time to shout out to my sentries to know if all
is well. I fear all this is telling on my health
tremendously.
^'' Tuesday^ October 27///. — (Sixth day as pris-
oner.) All I can hear in the way of news is
that the chief has sent men to fight those parts
we passed through. I begin to doubt if he has
sent to Mwanga at all, but thinks I am in
league with the fighting party, and is keeping
me hostage. I begin the day better in health,
though I had a most disturbed night. I am
very low in spirits ; it looks so dark, and
having been told that the first messengers
would return at the latest to-day. Last night
the chief's messenger said perhaps they might
be here as soon as Thursday, but seemed to
doubt it. I don't know what to think, and would
say from the heart, ' Let the Lord do what
seemeth to Him good.' If kept here another
week I shall feel sure no messengers have
been sent, and if possible shall endeavour to
flee, in spite of all the property I must leave
behind and the danger of the undertaking.
" Only a few ladies came to see the wild
beast to-dav. I felt so low and wretched that
Fever. 237
I retired within my den, whither they, some of
them, followed me ; but as it was too dark to
see me, and I refused to speak, they soon left.
The only news of to-day is that two white
men, one tall and the other short, have arrived
in Akota, and the sultan has detained them.
It is only a report that has followed me. I am
the tall man, and Pinto, my Goa cook, the
short one ; he is almost always taken for a
white man, and dresses as such. I fear, how-
ever, with these fearfully suspicious people,
that it may affect me seriously. I am very
low, and cry to God for release.
" Wednesday, (9c/'o/?c;'2 8///.— (Seventh day's
prison.) A terrible night, first with noisy,
drunken guard, and secondly with vermin,
which have found out my tent and swarm. I
don't think I got one hour's sound sleep, and
woke with fever fast developing. O Lord, do
have mercy upon me and release me. I am
quite broken down and brought low. Com-
forted by reading Psalm xxvii.
"In an hour or two fever developed rapidly.
My tent was so stuffy that I was obliged to go
inside the filthy hut, and soon was delirious.
238 The Last jfonrnal.
" Evening : fever passed away. Word came
that Mwanga had sent three soldiers, but what
news they bring they will not vet let me
know.
"Much comforted bv Psalm xxviii.
" Thursday, October 29///. — (Eighth day's
prison.) I can hear no news, but was held up
by Psalm xxx., which came with great power.
A hyena howled near me last night, smelling a
sick man, but I hope it is not to have me yet."
These are the last words in the little pocket-
diary. The ink was perhaps scarcely dry when
the Bishop was led forth to his death. The
following extract from a recent letter of his
able and devoted successor," Bishop Parker,
who so manfully stepped into the breach, and
who, like the First Bishop, has been so swiftly
struck down on the shore of the fatal Lake,
throws further light upon the manner in w^hich
he faced and met " the last Enemv": —
" Ukutu,* who was with the Bishop constantly
during his imprisonment, and undid his hands
* One of the boys who escaped the general massacre of
Bishop Hannington's porters.
Letter from Bishop Parker. 239
when thev bound him to lead him off to the
spot where he was murdered, told us that as
the Bishop walked to that spot he was singing
hymns nearly all the way. As they were
in English, he did not know their meaning ;
but he noticed that in them the word JESUS
came very frequently."
The spears of Mwanga's soldiers cut him oft
from U-Ganda, indeed, but they were not un-
welcome ; they opened a way, sharp but
swift, to the attainment of the long-desired
vision of Him Whose Presence had gone with
His servant throughout the whole of that
arduous journey. Our's is the loss, and
Africa's ; his the eternal gain. For him we
rejoice and yet we mourn, as for one who —
" Hath had the vision face to face.
And now his chair desires him here in vain,
However they may crown him otherwhere."
THE END.
LONDON
PRINTED BY COOKB AND HALSTED
THE MOORFIELDS PRESS, E.G.
0.,^
Date Due |
2 'sn
^f^2 ^sfi
^
