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HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
HOW I FOUND
LIVINGSTONE:
TMYELS, ADYENTURES AND DISCOYERIES
IN
CENTEAL AFKICA:
INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF
Four Months' Residence with Dr. Livingstone.
BY
HENRY M. STANLEY,
TRAVEIXING CORBESrONDENT OF TUE " KEW YORK UERALD."
With Maps ancl IlluHtra,tion.s after Drawings by tho Author.
PUBLISHED ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION.
SCRIRNER, ARMSTRONG & CO.
1 8 7 ;s.
Boston: (Jeo. M. Smith & Co. Poutland: II. A. McKknny & Co.
Syuacl'sk: Watson Gill. . Dicthoit: Bootiiuoyd & (Jiiuis.
t'liicAGo: Hadley Huos. & Kane. New Okleans: Kain & Co.
San Francisco ; A. L. Bani koft & Co.
Entered according to act of Congress, In the year 1872, by
BCRIBNER, ARMSTRONG & CO.,
m tne Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
LaNUK, LiTTLK ic HtLLMAN,
PBINTKBIl, ■I.KCTKOTVPBKH AND STKRSOTTPXRS,
108 to 114 WooBTiiK St., N. Y.
i i ■
I I
I
j " JAMES GOEDON BENNETT, ESQ.,
I (PBOPRIhTOK OF THE "NEW TOKK HEKALD,";
THIS RECX)RD OF
THE EXPEDITION SENT IN SEARCH OF DOCTOR TJVTNGSTONL.
AND OP
TRAVELS, ADVENTURES, AKD DISCOVERIES IN CENTRAL AFRICA,
I |s ^tsptttfullg gflrtcattb,
AS A TRIBUTE
! 'E GENEROSITV AND THE LIBERALITY WHICH ORIGINATED, SUSTAINED,
I AND CROWNED THE ENTERPRISE,
BY HIS GRATEFUL SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT,
HENRY M. STANLEY,
I,ATB OOMKANDEU "MEW TUHK HEKALD" EXTKDITION
CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE I.
ZANZIBAR.
Arrival at Zanzibar — Eeception by Captain Webb, U.S. Consnl —
Life at Zanzibar — System of Trade with the Interior — The town
of Zanzibar — Population — Introduction to Dr. Kirk — Bishop
Tozer Pages 1 to 20
-CHAPTER II.
ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
Difficulty of obtaining information — Engagement of J. W. Shaw
and W. L. Farquhar — Mbaralc Bombay — Visit to the Sultan's
Palace — Embarkation for Bagamoyo — Courtesy and Character
of the Sultan Pages 21 to 40
CHAPTER III.
BAGAMOYO.
Arrival at Bagamoyo — Hospitality of the Jesuit Mission — Life
at Bagamoyo — Ali bin Salim — Dishonest Prowlers — Donkey
stolen — Packing the Bales — Difficulty in procuring Pagazis —
Cost of Carriage and Goods — Soor Hadji Palloo— His pecca-
dilloes— Visit to the Livingstone Caravan — Arrival at Bagamoyo
of Dr. Kirk — Climate of Bagamoyo — Departure of the Five
Caravans ....... Pages -11 to G8
viii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE IV.
THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AXD UDOE, TO USEGUHHA.
Arrival at first Camp, " Shamba Goncra " — The Valley of the
Eingani — Building Bridge across the Kingani — The crossing —
Peppering Hippopotami — Arrival at Kikoka — Eoute never
travelled by a White Man — Rosako, the Frontier Village of
Uk^ ere— Impertinent Curios'ty of the Wagogo — My VTatch-
dog "Omar"— Tie tisect Tribe — The Tsetse Fly— The
Chufwa Fly : its voracity — Commencement of the Masika, or
Eainy Season — Death of Arab Horse — Interview with Chief of
Kingaru — Death of Bay Horse — March to Imbiki— Arrival at
Msiiwa — Jungle troubles — Chained Slave-gang — Kisemo — The
Belles of Kisemo — Desertion of Khamesi : his punishment —
Crossing the Ungerengeri — The Capital, Useguhha Simba-
mwenni — The Sultana — Stormy Dispute with Shaw — African
Ague — ^Visit from the Sultana . . . Pages 69 to 120
CHAPTER V.
TO UGOGO.
The Rainy Season — Innumerable Hosts of Creeping Things — Cross-
ing the Ungerengeri — The Flogging of Bunder Salaam : he is
Lost : his Discovery — Soldiers imprisoned by the Sultana — The
Makata "Wilderness — Desertion and Capture of Soldier — Terri-
ble Difficulties in crossing the Makata Swamp — Encampment
at Usagara — Shaw's Letter to Farquhar — Farquhar's Reply —
His extravagant Expenditure — Shaw's Dilatorincss — Novel
mode of using a Cart — Lake Ugombo — Shaw and Farquhar at
Breakfast — Shaw " measures his length " on the ground —
Asks for his Discharge — He Repents — A Shot fired through my
Tent — Farquhar left behind at Mpwapwa — Abdullah bin
Nasili — Scenery of Mpwapwa . . . Pages 121 to 170
CHAPTER VL
THROUGH MARENGA MKAI.I, L'GOGO, UYANZl, TO UNYAKYEMBE.
Arrival at Chunyo — Bitter Water — Marenga Mkali — No Water
for Tliirty-six Hours — A Dangerous Fever attack — Arrival
CONTENTS. ix
at TJgogo — ^Fnrio'-<s Mob — Plentiful Supplies at Mvnmi—
Tribute to the Great Sultan — The Sultan of Matam-buru —
March to Bihawana — "Whipping the Wagogo — ^Visit from the
Sultan of Mizanza — The Waliumba a fine Eace — Arrival at
LIukonduku — Departure — Counsel with Arabs as to Eoute —
Dispute and Separation from* them — They follow — Ugogo
proves to be a Land of Gall and Bitterness — Arrival at Kiti —
Sultan bin Mohammed — Halt «t Kusuri — Thief shot — Mud-
f sh — Rubuga in Euins — Amir bin liultai — Crossing tb; Mtcni
— -Arri val in Um anye tnbe .... Page^ 171 to 2 22
CHAPTEE VIT.
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REJIARKS.
Pages 223 to 257
CHAPTEE VIII.
LIFE IN UXTANYEMBE.
Hospitality of the Governor, Sayd bin Salim — Comfortable
Quarters — Tabora, tlie principal Arab Settlement — Mirarabo,
Chief of Uyoweh — His Depredations — A Council of War — Tlie
Livingstone Caravan found — Terrible attack of Fever — March
for Ujiji — Arrival at Masangi — Shaw taken 111 — Join the Arab
Army at Mfuto — Fitjht with Mirambo — Capture of the Village
of Zimbizo — Fever again — Defeat and great Slaughter of the
Arabs by Mirambo— Eetreat to ]Mfuto . . Pages 258 to 286
CHAPTEE IX.
LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
The Ara\)8 Eetreat to Tabora — I proceed — Arrival at Kwihara —
Try another Eoute — Bfy Position most Serious — Death of
Farqubar reported — Defeat of the Arabs at Tabora — Kliann's
bin Al)dullah slain — Tabora in Flames — Preparations for
Defence — The Philosopher Sheikh bin Nasil) — I determine to
lead a Flying Caravan to Ujiij — Death of Baruti — Jlen dis-
pirited— The little Boy Kalnlu — His bajitism — Mirnmho
attacks l^Ifuto, and is defeated — Sclim Delirious from constant
Fevers — Two Guides, Asmani and Mabruki — My Eesolution to
find Livingstone Pages 287 to 300
z
CONTENTS,
CHAPTEE X.
TO MEERA, UKOKONGO.
Start from Kwihara — Bombay gets a«Thrashing — Shaw wishes to
stay behind — I compel him to go on — Another Fever attack
— Livingstone's Letter-carrier missi^ng — Arrival at Kasegera —
Shaw gives in, and is sent back to Kwihara — The splendid
Forests of Unyamwezi — We reach Ugunda — The Mukunguru —
Description of this Fever — A magnificent Sycamore — A Victim
to Small-pox — Numerous Skeletons found on the Eoad-side —
Arrival at Manyara — Dispute as to Tribute with the Sultan —
Visit from him — A Dose of Concentrated Ammonia — The
Sultan's Astonishment — The Hunter's Paradise — My first Game,
an Antelope shot — Zebra-stalking — Adventure with a Croco-
dile— Two Days' Hunting — Mutiny — Asmani and Mabruki
present their Guns at me — Peace restored — Bombay Thrashed
again, and put in Chains — Characters of the Principal Men-
Arrival at Ziwani — The Honey-Bird — IJtende — Mwaru —
Arrival at Mrera — Shoe-mending . . , Pages 310 to 3G0
CHAPTER XL
THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI,
Departure from Mrera — Camp in the Jungle — I sink to my
Neck in the Ooze of the Eungwa — The Mpokwa Eiver — The
Home of the Lion first seen — A Troop of Monkeys — Adventure
with a huge Wild Boar — Followed by a laon — A Day of great
Troubles — A Buifalo shot — A Leopard — Bufiiilo-stalking —
Famine stares us in the face — Welled Nzogcra's — Food plentiful
— A Donkey sinks in the Morass — Embassy to Chief Kiala —
Seven Hours of Talk — On the Banks of the Malagarazi — Our
Donkey " Simba " seized and carried away by a Crocodile —
News of Livingstone! — Halt at Kawanga — Disputes about
Tribute — Exorbitant Demands — We cross the Pombwe and
the Kancngi Rivers — A Midnight March through the Jungle —
A Crazy Woman almost betrays us by yelling — Thunder from
the Tanganika — On the Banks of the Eugufu — Nianitaga —
The Tanganika! Hurrah! Unfurl the Flags ! — Susi, Dr. Living-
stone's Sei-vant, says, "Good-morning, Sir!" — "Dr. Ltving-
BTONE, I I'UESUME?" " Yesl" — Conversation with the Doctor
—Good-night Pages 3G1 to 419
CONTENTS.
xi
CHAPTEE XII.
INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI.
Summary from my Note-book of Livingstone's Travels
Pages 420 to 474
CHAPTER XIII.
OUR CRUISE OX THE TANGANIKA.
Ottr Ship, a cranky Canoe — Enormous Dog-nosed Monkey —
The Fishermen of the Tanganika — The Zassi Elver and
Village — Soundings of the Lake — Nyabigraa Island — Disturbed
at Supper — Hostility of the Natives — War between Mukamba
and Warumashanya — A Mgwana asserts that the Eusizi flows out
of the Lake — I am struck down by Fever — Nursed by the
Doctor — The Mgwana's Report contradicted by Mukamba —
Swarms of Crocodiles — Ruhinga's Information — The Head of
the Lake and the Jrouth of the Rusizi — The Question, Was the
Eusizi an Effluent or Influent, answered for ever — The Doctor
still believes in an Outlet — Burton and Speke's Extreme Point
— Signs of Disturbance in Mruta's Village — " New York Herald
Islets " — Cape Luvumba — Fight about to Commence — The
Sultan Pacified — A serio-comic Scene — Return to Ujiji
Pages 475 to 515
CHAPTER XIV.
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS.
Pages 516 to 557
CHAPTER XV.
OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE.
Chat with Livingstone over the Incidents of the " Pic-nic " — The
Doctor declines to return Homo until his Work is done —
Blames Dr. Kirk for sending him Slaves, and commanding
thera to bring him back — Eecovory of his Enfield Eifles — Tho
Doctor resolves to accompany mo to Unyanycmbc — Attack of
Remittent Fever — How we spent Christmas-day— Departure
from Ujiji — Our Voyage down tho Tanganika — Arrival at, and
crossing tho Liuclic — Crossing the Malagarazi — No Current in
tho Tanganika — Arrival at Uriniba — Zebra-shooting — The
Valley of Loajeri — Buffalo Cow shot — Confronting an Ek'pliaut
— Travellers' Tales — Eed-beardcd Monkeys— ^Magdala sighted
xii CONTEXTS.
— The Yalley of Imrera — The Doctor foot-sore — Herds of
Game in Mpokwa Plain — Two Zebras shot — A Herd of Giraffe
— Giraffe Tvounded — Ibrahim's Slave Ulimengo absconds —
Latitude of Mpokwa — Zinc Canteens converted into Bullets —
Giraffe brought down therewith — Start for Misonghi — The
Doctor dreadfully Stung by Wild Bees— Mirambo famished — •
Death of Shaw — Incidents in the Career and Death of Robert
Livingstone — A Lion in the Grass — A Triplet of Lions —
Arrival at TJgunda — Oaptire of tho De5erter, Hamdallah— •
Arrival at Unyaiyem be . . • . Page! 558 to 607
CHAPTER XVL
HOMEWAllD BOUND.
Livingstone's Stores opened — Found to be a Delusion — Asmani
found Guilty— Wliite Ants consuming the Brandy and replac-
ing the Corks !— The Goods turned over to Dr. Livingstone —
He writes his Letters home— His Letter to James G. Bennett
— Native Song — Last Night with Livingstone — His Journal
scaled up — Our final Departure — Farewell — Halt at Tura —
Letters from the Doctor — Arrival at JK^iwyeh — Wagogo War
Horns sounding everywhere— Full Fighting Costume — A false
Alarm— Khonze Chief resists our Advance — Preparation for a
Fight — Mnyamwcjci seized by the Throat, and Peace restored —
Arrival at Kanycnyi - Visit from the Sr.ltau— The Village of
Mapanga— Sudden Bush of Armed Natives— Forty Spears
against Forty Guns — Tribute Demanded and Paid — Leucole's
Account of Farquhar's Death— The Valley of the Mukondokwa
—Privation from the JIasika— Awful Floods— Fighting Swarms
of Mosquitoes— The Doctor's Despatch-Box in Jeopardy-
Dragged through the Eivcr by Eopcs — Arrival at Simba-
mwenni —The Wall swept away— Terrific Storm— Destruction
of One Hundred Villages— The Msunva Jungle— Its Horrors—
"Hot-water " Ants— News from Zanzibar— Arrival at Bagamoyo
— The meeting with the Livingstone Search and Belief E.xpc-
ditiou Pages 608 to 657
CHAPTER XVIL
VALKDICTORY Tagcs 658 to G92
APPENDIX
Pages 693 to 719
4
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS.
<full-pagj lllustralioits.
1. Portrait of James Gordon Bennett, Esq. to face Introduction.
2. A VIEW OF Zanzibar to face page 3
3. A VIEW OF Bagamoyo ..... , , 41
4. SiMBAMWENNi — " The Lion City " . . . , , Ho
5. Discomforts of African travel— The Makata
Swamp . . . . . . . • 135
6. Shaw's mode of marching .... , , 152
7. 'I'liE Lake and Peak of Ugumbo . . . I54,
8. Mount Kibwe, and the Valley of the Mokon-
DOKWA lilVER ...... , , 245
9. We attack Mirambo ..... , , 280
10. View of Kwihara ..... , , 31O
11. Ma-manyara takes medicine . . . 334.
12. The mutiny on the Gombe Eiver , . 345
'13. Selim, the Intkrpueter .... 352
14. The wounded boar comes to a halt . . 37I
15. " Dr. Livingstone, I presume ?" . . . , , 412
16. Our lev&e at Magala, Urundi . . , 494
17. At the mouth of the liusizi . . , 504
18 I
19 implements, and pipes . at pages 544 and 545-
20. Dr. Livingstone at work on his journal . to face page 563
21. On Lake Tanganika — homeward bound . , , 567
22. " He is shot ! He is shot !" — shooting a buf- ^
falo cow . ...... 577
23. A surprise ....... 580
24. A lion in the grass ..... , , 602
25. My house IN Kwihara, Unyanyemee . . 612
26. The Wagogo on the war path ... , , 632
27. Symptoms of a fkjht ..... , , 636
28. " Look out I You drop that box — I'll shoot
vou" . . . . , . . G12
Smaller |lluslrnfions.
PAOIt
1. View of Bagamoyo 41
2. Portrait of Uombay and Mabruki ..... 69
3. Woman grinding corn ...... 106
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
4. Portrait of Shaw and Farquhab , . . . . 121
5. Our camp at Chunyo 171
6. Mgogo man akd woman ....... 223
7. a gate of a village ....... 239
8. Weapons of war ........ 242
9. Touthfcl Wasagara ....... 248
10. Bird's-eye view of a tbmbe ...... 253
11. View in front of my tembe ...... 258
12. Group of Wanyamwezi ....... 287
13. Gigantic sycamore and camp ...... 328
14. View in Uvinza 3q1
15. Village in Uzavira — native potteuy .... 367
16. Our house in Ujiji 420
17. View on Lake Tanganika ...... 475
18. Susi, the servant of Livingstone ..... 499
19. Ujiji cow, Unyamwezi cow, pariah dog, and fat-tailed sheep 516
20. The fishes of the Tanganika ...... 532
21. An idol 552
22. Daggers and spear-heads 55G
23. Our camp at Urimba 558
24. Making the most of a halt 609
25. The Memorial 71<j
Map of Eastern Central Africa — Frontispiece.
Plan of Central Unyanyembe to face page 259. "
Plan of water system in jjage 229.
Sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to fivce page 449.
Survey of northern half of Tanganika to face page 475.
Small sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 1.
EERATA.
13,
Page line
-I'i et passim, line 25, &c.
41 plate . .
G2, (13 passion .
137 et passi7n, line
142 29 . . .
lOG 19 . . .
171 10 (col. 1)
237 20 . . .
245 plate . .
2.59 23 . . .
330 18 . . .
311 3;5 . . .
370 33 . . .
3S3 2(i . . .
C . . .
8 . . .
391
408
for
Sycd . .
IJaKomoyo .
O'lJeilly .
Sarmian
liaii^Iiy .
(|iialiary
INIanieka
representations
IMiikandokwa
Is'gliema
Stamped
(rUeilly .
its . . .
beasts .
has not spoken
insei-t " of " at beginning
read
Scyd.
llugamoyo.
Reilly.
Sarmean.
banpliy.
Kwaheri.
JIunieka.
representatives.
5Iukon<lokwa.
Ngenia.
tamped.
IJcilly.
Ills
reptiles,
has spoken.
of line.
*
INTRODUCTORYc
On" the sixteenth day of October, in the year of our
Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, I am in
Madrid, fresh from the carnage at Yalencia.. At 10 a.m.
Jacopo, at No. — Calle de la Cruz, hands me a telegram :
on opening it I find it reads, " Come to Paris on
important business." The telegram is from Jas. Gordon
Bennett, jun., the young manager of the " New York
Herald."
Down come my pictures from the walls of my apart-
ments on the second floor ; into my trunks go my
books and souvenirs, my clothes are hastily collected,
some half washed, some from the clothes-line haff dry,
and after a couple of hours of* hasty hard work my
portmanteaus are strapped up, and labelled for " Paris."
The express-train leaves Madrid for Hendaye at
3 P.M. I have yet time to say farewell to my friends.
I have one- at No. 6 Calle Goya, fourth floor, who
hajopens to be a contributor to several London dailies.
He has several children, in whom I have taken a warm
xvi
INTBODUCTORJ.
interest. Little Charlie and Willie are fast friends of
mine ; they love to hear of my adventures, and it has
been a pleasure to me to talk to them. But now I
must say farewell.
Then I have friends at the United States Legation
whose conversation I admire — there h«s come a sudden
ending of it all. " I hope you will write to us, we
shall always be glad to hear of your welfare." How
often have I not during my feverish life as a flying
journalist heard the very same words, and how often
have I not suffered the same pang at parting from
friends just as warm as these.
But a journalist in my position must needs suffer.
Like a gladiator in the arena, he must be prepared for
the combat. Any flinching, any cowardice, and he is
lost. The gladiator meets the sword that is sharpened
for his bosom — the flying journalist or roving corre-
spondent meets the command that may send him to
his doom. To the battle or the banquet it is ever the
same — " Get ready and go."
At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliged to
stop at Bayonne a few hours, did not arrive at Paris
until the following night. I went straight to the
" Grand Hotel," and* knocked at the door of jMr.
Bennett's room.
" Come in," I heard a voice say.
Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed.
" Who are you ?" he asked.
" My name is Stanley 1" I answered.
INTRODUCTORY. ' xvii
" Ah, yes ! sit down ; I have important business on
hand for you."
After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre,
Mr. Bennett asked, " Where do you think Living-
stone is ?"
" I really do not know, sir !"
" Do you think he is alive ?"
" He may be, and he may not be !" I answered.
" "Well, I think he is alive^ and that he can be found,
and I am going to send you to find him."
" What !" said I, " do you really think I can find Dr.
Livingstone ? Do you mean me to go to Central Africa ?"
" Yes ; I mean that you shall go, and find him
wherever you may hear that he is, and to get what
news you can of him, and perhaps" — delivering himself
thoughtfully and deliberately — "the old man may be in
want : — take enough with you to help him should he
require it. Of course you will act according to your
own plans, and do what you think best — but find
Livingstone !
Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one
to Central Africa to search for a man whom'!, in
common with almost all other meri, believed to be dead,
" have you considered seriously the great expense you
are likely to incur on account of this little journey?"
" What will it cost ?" he asked, abruptly.
" Burton and Speke's journey to Central Africa cost
between £3,000 and £5,000, and I fear it cannot be
done under £2,500."
sviii *
INTRODUCTOEY.
" Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a
thousand pounds now ; and when you have gone
through that, draw another thousand, and when that
is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have
finished that, draw another thousand, and so on; , but,
FIND LtYIXGSTONE.
Surprised hut not confused at the order, for I knew
that Mr. Bennett when once he had made up his mind
was not easily drawn aside from his purpose, I yet
thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he
had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and
cons of the case ; I said, " I have heard that should
your father die you would sell the ' Herald ' and retire
from business."
" Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not
money enougli in New York city to buy the ' New
York Herald.' My father has made it a great paper,
but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be
a news paper in the true sense of the word. I mean
that it shiill publish whatever news will be interesting
to the world at no matter wliat cost."
' " After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say.
Do you mean me to go straight on to Africa to search
for Dr. Livingstone ?"
" No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the
Suez Canal first and then proceed up the Nile. I hear
Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. Find out
what you can about his expedition, and as you go up
describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for
INTEODUCTOEY.
tourists ; an(J then write up a guide — a practical one —
for Lower Egypt, tell us about whatever is worth
seeing and how to see it.
" Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear
Captain Warren is making some interesting discoveries
there. Then visit Constantinople, and find out about
that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan.
"Then — let me see — you might as well visit the
Crimea and those old battle-grounds. Then go across
the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea, I hear there is a
Russian expedition bound for Khiva. From tlience
you may get through Persia to India ; you could write
an interesting letter from Persepolis.
" Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppose
you go there, and write up something about the Eu-
phrates Valley Railway. Then, when you have come
to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you
will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way
to Zanzibar ; but if not, go into the interior and find
him, if alive. Get what news of his discoveries you
can ; and, if you find he is dead, bring all jjossible
proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night,
and God be with you."
" Good-night, sir," I said ; " what it is in the power
of human nature to do I will do ; and on such an errand
'as I go upon, God will be with me."
I lodged with young Edward King, who is making
Buch a name in New England. He was just the man
who would have delighted to tell the Journal he waa
XX INTRODUCTORY. *
engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett w^s doing, and
what errand I was bound upon.
I should have liked to exchange opinions with him
upon the probable results of my journey, but I dared
not do so. Though oppressed with the great task
before me, I had to appear a*s if only going to be
present at the Suez Canal. Young King followed me
to the express-train bound for Marseilles, and at the
station we parted — he to go, and read the newspapers
at Bowles' Eeading-room— I to Central Africa and —
who knows ?
There is no need to recapitulate what I did before
going- to Central Africa.
I went up the Nile, and saw Mr. Higginbotham,
chief-engineer in Baker's Expedition, at Philte, and
was the means of preventing a duel between him and a
mad young Frenchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Hig-
ginbotham with pistols, because that gentleman re-
sented the idea of being taken for an Egyptian, through
wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt, Warren
at Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a
sergeant of engineers to see the marks of the Tyrian
workmen on the foundation stones of the Temple of
Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with
the Minister Resident of the United States, and the
American Consul General. I travelled over the
Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books
for reference in my hand. I dined with the widow of
General Liprandi at Odessa. I saw the Arabian
INTBODUCTORT.
xxi
traveller Palgfave at Trebizond, and Barou Nicolay,
the Civil Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived
with the Russian Ambassador while at Teheran, and
wherever I went through Persia I received the most
hospitable welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo-
European Telegraph Company ; and following the
examples of -many illustrious men, I wrote my name
upon one of the Persepolitan monuments. In the
month of August, 1870, I arrived in India.
On the r2tli of October I sailed on the barque
" Polly " from Bombay to Mauritius. As the " Polly "
was a slow sailer, the passage lasted thirty-seven days.
On board this barque was a William Lawrence
Farquhar — hailing from Leith, Scotland — in the ca-
pacity of first-mate. He was an excellent navigator,
and thinking he might be useful to me, I employed
him ; his pay to begin from the date we should leave
Zanzibar for Bagamoyo. As there was no opportunity
of getting to Zanzibar direct, I took ship to Seychelles.
Three or four days after arriving at Mahe, one of the
Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get a
passage for myself, William Lawrence ^'arquhar, and
Selim— a Christian Arab boy of Jerusalem, who was to
act as interpreter — on board an American whaling
vessel, bound for Zanzibar, at which port we arrived
on the Gth of January, 1871.
I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because
these do not concern the reader. They led over many
lands, but this book is only a narrative of my search
INTRODUCTORY
after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is
an Icarian flight of journalism, I confess; some even
have called it Quixotic; but this is a word- 1 can now
refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives at the
" Finis."
I have used the word " soldiers " in this book. The
armed escort a traveller engages to accompany him
into East Africa is composed of free black men, natives
of Zanzibar, or frsed slaves from the interior, who call
themselves " askari," an Indian name which, translated,
means " soldiers." They are armed and equipped like
soldiers, though they engage themselves hIso as ser-
vants ; but it would be more pretentious in me to call
them servants, than to use the word " soldiers ;" and
as I have been more in the habit of calling them
soldiers, than my watuma — servants — this habit has
proved too much to be overcome. I have therefore
allowed the word " soldiers " to appear, accompanied,
however, with this apology.
I have also used the personal pronoun first person
singular, " I," oftener, perhaps, than real modesty would
admit.
But it must be remembered that I am writing a
narrative of my own adventures and travels, and that
until I meet Livingstone, I presume the greatest interest
is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles, my
thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may
sometimes write, " my expedition," or " my caravan,"
it by no means follows that I arrogate to myself this
BfTBODUCTOBT.
xxiii
right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is
the " ' Xew York Herald ' Expedition," and that I am
onlj charged with its command bv Mr. James Gordon
Bennett, the proprietor of the ' Xew York Herald,' as
a salaried employe of that gentleman.
One thing more ; I have adopted the narrative form
of relating the story of the search, on account of the
greater interest it appears to possess over the diary
form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the great
fault of repetition for which some travellers have been
severely criticised.
Having explained so much, I do not think it neces-
sary to say any more in the Introduction, and shall
therefore commence my narrative.
HEXRY M. STANLEY.
8, Duchess Street, Portland Place, London.
October, 1872.
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
CHAPTER I.
ZANZIBAR.
One of the fruitfulest islands of the Indian Ocean is
Zanzibar, Wlien I left Bombay for the purpose of
leading the ' New York Herald ' expedition into the
unknown heart of Africa, my abstract conception of the
island was that it was but a little better than a great
sandbar, or a patch of Sahara, with a limited oasis or two,
surrounded by the sea, rife with cholera, fever, and
nameless but dreadful diseases ; populated by ignorant
blacks, with gjeat thiclc lips, whose general appearance
might be compared to Du Cliaillu's gorillas, who were
ruled over by a despotic and surly Arab.
How it had become thus distorted in my imagina-
tion I cannot conceive. I had read books and articles
on Zanzibar, which were by no means unfavourably
disposed towards it, yet it floated in my brain as an
island whose total submersion in the sea wOuld l)eiiefit
the world. I am not certain, but I think I caught the
idea from Capt. Burton's 'Lake Regions of Central
Africa,' along with many other eccentric ideas. The
whole book, although wonderfully clever and truthful,
B
2
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
is somewhat bilious in tone, and I think its effect was
manifest in me by a rush of a part of its bile into my
head, for while I read it I saw a lethal stream, which
drifted with me' towards the eternal feverish region of
Africa, from which a sickening presentiment said there
was no return. But hail ! to the blessed dawn that
dispels the dreadful dream under which you groaned in
agony throughout the night. Hail ! to the letter that
brings good news, and hail ! to the verdant shores of
Zanzibar, that said to me, " Hope ; things are seldom
so bad as they are painted."
It was in the early morning that I sailed through
the channel that separates Zanzibar from Africa. The
high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening
shadow in the grey of dawn. The island lay on our
left, distant but a mile, coming out of its shroud of
foggy folds, bit hj bit as the day advanced, until it
finally rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as
the fairest of the gems of creation. It appeared low,
but not flat ; there were gentle elevations cropping
hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of
the cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and
there were depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to
indicate where a cool gloom might be found by those
who sought relief from a hot sun. With the excep-
tion of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green
water rolled itself with a constant murmur aiid moan,
the island seemed buried under one deep stratum of
verdure.
The noble bosom of the strait bore several dhows,
speeding in and out of the bay of Zanzibar with bellying
sails. Towards the south, above the sea line of the
horizon, tliere appeared the naked masts of several
large ships, and to the east of these a dense mass of
4
Jak. 1871.]
ZANZIBAR.
3
white, flat-topped houses. This was Zanzibar, the
capital of the island ; — which soon resolved itself into a
pretty large and compact city, with all the characteristics
of Arab architecture. Above some of the largest houses
lining the bay front of the city streamed the blood-red
banner of the Sultan, Syed Burghash, and the flags of the
American, English, North German Confederation, and
French Consulates. In the harbor were thirteen large
ships, four Zanzibar men-of-war, one English man-of-
war — the "-Nymphe," two American, one French, one
Portuguese, two English, and two German merchantmen,
besides numerous dhows hailing from Johanna and
Mayotte of the Comoro Islands, dhows from Muscat and
Cutch — traders between India, the Persian Gulf, and
Zanzibar.
It was with the spirit of true hospitality and courtesy
that Capt. Francis R, Webb, United States Consul,
(formerly of the United States Navy,) received me.
Had this gentleman not rendered me such needful
service, I must ha\ e condescended to take board and
lodging at a house known as " Charley's," called after
the proprietor, who is a Frenchman with a crooked
nose, and withal very eccentric, who has won con-
siderable local notoriety for harboring penniless itine-
rants, and manifesting a kindly spirit always, though
hidden imdcr such a rugged front ; or I should have
been obliged to pitch my doubled-clothed American
drill tent on the sandbeach of this tropical island,
an in-no-wise desirable thing.
But Capt. Webb's opportune proposal to make his
commodious and comfortable hoiise my own ; to enjoy
myself, with the re([uest that I would call for whatever
I might require, obviated all unpleasant alternatives.
One day's life at Zanzibar, made me thoroughly
u 2
4
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
conscious of my ignorance respecting African people
and things in general. I imagined I had read "Burton
and Speke through, fairly well, and that consequently
I had penetrated the meaning, the full importance and
grandeur, of the work I was about to be engaged upon.
But my ' estimates, for instance, based upon book in-
formation, were simply ridiculous, — fanciful images of
African attractions were soon dissipated, anticipated
pleasures vanished, and all crude ideas began to resolve
themselves into shape.
I strolled through the city. My general impressions
are of crooked, narrow lanes, white-washed houses,
mortar-plastered streets, in the clean quarter ; — of seeing
alcoves on each side, with deep recesses, with a fore-
ground of red-turbaned Banyans, and a back-ground of
flimsy cottons, prints, calicoes, domestics and what
not ; or of floors crowded with ivory tusks ; or of dark
corners with a pile of unginned and loose cotton ; or
of stores of crockery, nails, cheap Brummagem ware,
tools, &c., in what I call the Banyan quarter ; — of streets
smelling very strong— in fact, exceedingly malodorous,
witli steaming yellow and black bodies, and woolly
heads, sitting at the doors of miserable huts, chatting,
laughing, bargaining, scolding, witli a compound smell
of hides, tar, filth, vegetable refuse, excrement, &c., in the
negro quarter ; — of streets lined witli tall, solid looking
houses, flat roofed, of great carved doors with large
brass knockers, with baabs * sitting cross-legged watch-
injr the dark .entrance to their masters' houses ; of a
shallow sea-inlet, with some dhows, canoes, boats, an odd
steam-tug or two, leaning over on their sides in a sea
of mud which the tide has just left behind it ; of
a place called " Nazi-Moya," " One Cocoa-tree," whither
• Porters.
Jan. 1871.]
ZANZIBAR.
6
Europeans wend on evenings with most languid, mori-
bund steps, to inhale the sweet air that glides over
the sea, while the day is dying, and the red sun is
sinking westward; of a few graves of dead sailors, who
paid the forfeit of their lives upon arrival in this land ; of
a tall house wherein lives Dr. Tozer, " Missionary Bishop
of Central Africa," and his school of little Africans ;
and of many other things, which got together into such
a tangle, that I had to go to sleep, lest I should never
be able to separate the moving images, the Arab from
the African ; the African from the Banyan ; the Banyan
from the Hindi ; the Hindi from the European, etc.
Zanzibar is the Bagdad, the Ispahan, the Stamboul,
if you like, of East Africa. It is the great mart which
invites the ivory traders from the African interior. To
this market come the gum-copal, the hides, the or-
chilla, the timber, and the black slaves from Africa.
Bagdad had great silk bazaars, Zanzibar has her ivory
bazaars ; Bagdad once traded in jewels, Zanzibar ti ades
in gum-copal; Stamboul imported Circassian and Geor-
gian slaves ; Zanzibar imports black 'beauties from
Uliiyow, Ugindo, Ugogo, Unyamwezi and Galla.
The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all
Moliammedan countries — nay, the mode was in vogue
long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes.
He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when
he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab
here, as at Muscat or Bagdad ; wherever he goes to live,
he carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe,
his shirt, his watta,* and his dagger. If he penetrates
Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make
him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not
become Oriental ; the Arab has not been able to change
• Slippers.
s
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the atmosphere. The land is semi-African in aspect ;
the city is but semi- Arabian.
To a new.-comar into Africa, the Muscat Arabs of
Zanzibar are studies. There is a certain empressement
about them, which we must admire. Tliey are mostly
all travellers. There are but few of them, that have
not been in many dangerous positions, as they pene-
trated Central Africa in search of the precious ivory ;
and these, with their various experiences, have given
their features a certain unmistakeable air of self-
relian(3e, or of self-sufficiency ; there is a calm, resolute,
defiant, independent air about them, which wins un-
consciously one's respect. The stories that some of
these men could tell, I have often thought woidd fill
many a book of thrilling adventures.
For the half-castes I have great contempt. They
are neither black nor white, neither good nor bad,
neither to be admired nor hated. They are all things,
at all times, they are always fawning on the great
Arabs, and always cruel to those unfortunates brought
under their yoke. If I saw a miserable, half-starved
nefiro, I was always sure to be told, he belonged to a
half-caste. • Cringing and hypocritical, cowardly and
debased, treacherous and mean, I have always found
him. He seems to be for ever ready to fall down and
■v^orship a rich Arab, but is relentless to a poor black
slave. When he swears most, you may be sure he lies
most, and yet this is the breed which is multiplied most
at Zanizibar — this syphilitic, blear-eyed, pallid-skinned,
abortion of an Africanized Arab.
The Banyan is a born trader, the beau-ideal of a
sharp money-making man. Money flows to his pockets
as naturally as water down a steep. No pang of con-
science will prevent him from cheating his fellow man.
Jas. 1871.]
ZANZIBAR.
7
He excels a Jew, and his only rival in a market is a
Parsee ; an Arab is a babe to him. It is worth money
to see him labour with all his energy, soul, and body, to
get advantage by the smallest fraction of a coin over
a native. Possibly the native has a tusk, and it may
weigh a couple of frasilahs, but, though the scales
indicate the weight, and the native declares solemnly
that it must be more than two frasilahs, yet our Banyan
will asseverate, and aver, and declare, and vow, that the
native knows nothing whatever about it, and that the
scales are wrong; he musters up courage to lift it,
it is a mere song, not much more than a frasilah.
Come," he will say, " close, man, take the money and
go thy way. Art thou mad ?" If the native hesitates,
he will scream in a fury ; he pushes him about, spurns
the ivory with contemptuous indifference, — never was
such ado about nothing; but, though he tells the
astounded native to be up and going, he never intends
the ivory shall leave his shop.
The Banyans exercise, of all other classes, most
influence on the trade of Central Africa. With the ex-
ception of a very few rich Arabs, almost all other traders
are subject to the pains and penalties which nsury
imposes. A trader desirous to make a journey into
tlie interior, whether for slaves or ivory, gum-copal,
or orchilla weed, proposes to a Banyan to advance hinl
$5,000 at 50, GO, or 70 per cent, interest. The Banyan
is safe enough not to lose, whether the speculation tlie
trader is engaged upon pays or not. An experienced
trader seldom loses, or if ho has been nnfortuiiate,
through no deed of his own, he docs not lose credit;
with the help of the Banyan, he is easily set on his
feet again.
We will suppose, for the sake of illustrating how
8
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
trade with the interior is managed, that the Arab
conveys by his caravan $5,000 worth of goods into
the interior. At Unyanyembe the goods are worth
$10,000; at Ujiji, they are worth $15,000: they have
trebled in price. Five doti, or $7*50, will purchase a
slave in the markets of Ujiji that will fetch in Zanzibar
$30"00. Ordinary men-slaves may be purchased for
$6"00 which would sell for $25*03 on the coast. "We
will say he purchases slaves to the full extent of his
means — after deducting §1,500 expenses of carriage to
Ujiji and back — viz. $3,500, the slaves — 464 in number,
at $7*50 per head — would realize $13,920 at Zanzibar!
Again, let us illustrate trade in ivory. A merchant
takes $5,000 to Ujiji, and after deducting $1,500 for
expenses to Ujiji, and back to Zanzibar, has still remain-
ing $3,500 in cloth and beads, with which he purchases
ivory. At Ujiji ivory is bought at $20 the frasilah, or
35 lbs., by which he is enabled with $3,500 to collect
175 frasilahs, which if good ivory is worth about $60
per frasilah at Zanzibar. The merchant thus finds
that he has realized $10,500 net profit! Arab traders
have often done better than this, but tliey almost
always have come back with an enormous margin of
profit.
The next people to the Banyans in power in Zanzi-
bar are tlie Mohammedan Hindis. Really it lias been a
debateable subject in my mind whether the Hindis are
not as wickedly determined to cheat in trade, as the
Banyans. But, if 1 have conceded the palm to the
latter, it has been done very reluctantly. This tribe of
Indians can produce scores of unconscionable rascals
where they can show but one honest merchant. One
of the lionestest among men, white or black, red or
yellow, is a Mohammedan Hindi called Tarya Topau.
Ja.x. 1S71.]
ZANZIBAR.
9
Among the Europeans at Zanzibar, lie has become
a proverb for honesty, and strict business integrity.
He is enormously wealthy, owns several ships and
dhows, and is a prominent man in the councils of Syed
Burohash. Tarva has manv children, two or three
of whom are grown-up sons, whom he has reared up
even as he is himself. But Taryais but a representative
of an exceedincrlv small minoritv.
The Arabs, the Banyans, and the ^Mohammedan
Hindis, represent the higher and the middle classes.
These classes own the estates, the ships, and the
trade. To these classes bow the half-caste and the
negro.
The next most important people who go to make
Tip the mixed population of this island are the negroes.
They consist of the aborigines, AVasawahili, Somalis,
Comorines, TVanyamwezi, and a host of tribal repre-
sentatives of Inner Africa.
To a white stranger about penetrating Africa, it is a
most interesting walk through the negro quarters of the
"Wauyamwezi and the Wasawahili. For here he begins
to learn the necessity of admitting that negroes are
men, like himself, though of a different colour; that
they have passions and prejudices, likes and dislikes,
sympathies and antipathies, tastes and feelings, in
common with all human nature. The sooner he per-
ceives this foot, and adapts himself accordingly, the
easier will be his journey among the several races of
the interior. The more plastic his nature, the more
prosperous will be his travels.
Though I had lived some time among the negroes of
our Southern States, my education was Northern, and
I had met in the United States black men, whom I was
proud to call friends. I was thus prepared to admit any
10
now I FOUND LIVING STONK
black man, possessing the attributes of true manliood,
or any good qualities, to my friendship, even to a
brotherhood with ruyself ; and to respect him for such,
as much as if he were of my own colour and race.
Neither his colour, nor any peculiarities of physiognomy
should debar him witli me fi'om any rights he could fairly
claim as a man. *' Have these men — these black savages
from pagan Africa," I asked m3'self, " the qualities
which make man loveable amons,- his fellows ? " " Can
these men — these barbarians — appreciate kindness or
feel resentment like myself ? " was my mental question
as I travelled through their quarters and observed their
actions. Need I say, that I was much comforted in
observing that they were as ready to be influenced by
passions, by loves and hates, as I was myself; that the
keenest observation failed to detect any great difference
between their nature and my own.
The negroes of the island probably number two-
thirds of the entire population. They compose the
working-class, whether enslaved or free. Those en-
slaved perform the work required on the plantations,
the estates and gardens of the landed proprietors, or
perform the work of hamals or carriers, whether in the
country or the city. Outside the city they may be seen
carrying huge loads on their heads, as happy as pos-
sible, not because they are kindly treated or that their
work is light, but because it is their nature to be gay
and light-hearted, because they have conceived neither
joys nor hopes which may not be gratified at will, nor
cherished any ambition beyond their reach, and there-
fore have not been baffled in their hopes, nor known
disappointment.
AVithin the city, negro hamals may be iieard at all
hours, in couples, engaged in the transportation of
Jan. 1871.]
ZANZIBAR.
11
clove-bags, boxes of merchandise, &c., from store to
" go-down " and from " go-down " to the beach, singing
a kind of monotone chant for the encouragement of
each other, and for the guiding of their pace as they
shuffle through the streets with bare feet. You may
recognise these men readily, before long, as old ac-
quaintances, by the consistency with which they sing
the tunes they have adopted. Several times during
a day have I heard the same couple pass beneath the
windows of the Consulate, delivering themselves of the
same invariable tune and words. Some might possibly
deem the songs foolish and silly, but they had a certain
attraction for me, and I considered that they were as
useful as anything else for the purposes they were
intended.
The town of Zanzibar, situate on the south-western
shore of the island, contains a population of nearly one
hundred thousand inhabitants ; that of the island alto-
gether 1 would estimate at not more than two hundred
thousand inhabitants, including all races.
The greatest number of foreign vessels trading with
this port are American, principally from N&w York
and Salem. After the American come the German,
then come the French and English. They arrive
loaded with American sheeting, brandy, gunpowder,
muskets, beads, English cottons, brass-wire, china-ware,
and other notions, and^ depart with ivory, gum-
« copal, cloves, hides, cowries, sesamum, pepper, and
cocoa-nut oil.
The value of the exports from this port is estimated
at i?3, 000,000, and the imports from all countries at
$3,500,000.
The Europeans and Americans residing in the town
of Zanzibar are either Government oflScials, independent
12
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
mercliants,^ or agents for a few great mercantile houses
in Europe and America.
The most important consulate at Zanzibar is the
British. The acting Britisli Consul and political resi-
dent, when I was at Zanzibar preparing my expedition
for tlie African interior, was Dr. John Kirk.
I felt quite a curiosity to see this gentleman, from
the fact of his name being so often coupled with the
object of my search — Dr. David Liviugstone.
In almost all newspapers he was mentioned as the
" former companion of Dr. Livingstone." I imagined,
from the tone of the articles that I saw published, and
from his own letters to the Indian Government, that if
I could obtain any positive information from any person
regarding the whereabouts of Dr. Livingstone I should
be able to procure it from Dr. Kirk.
It was with feelings of no small impatience, therefore,
that I awaited 'the honour of an introduction to him
through Capt. AVebb.
On the second morning after my arrival at Zanzibar,
according to the demands of Zanzibar etiquette, the
American Consul and myself sallied out into the street,
and in a few moments I waS in the presence of this
much-befamed man. To a man of rather slim figure,
dressed plainly, slightly round-shouldered, hair black,
face thin, cheeks rather sunk and bearded, Capt.
"Webb said, Dr. Kirk, permit me to introduce Mr.
Stanley, of the ' New York Herald.' "
I fancied at the moment that he lifted his eyelids
perceptibly, disclosing the full circle of the eyes. If I
were to define such a look, I would call it a broad stare.
During the conversation, which ranged over several
subjects, though watching his face intently, I never
saw it kindle or become animated but once, and that
Jas. 1871.]
ZANZIBAE.
13
■was wliile relating some of liis hunting feats to us.
As the subject nearest my heart was not entered
upon, I promised myself I would ask him about
Dr. Livingstone the next time I called upon him.
Tuesday evenings " Dr. and ]\[rs. Kirk are at home,"
Zanzibarites are informed. The pleasures of those
evenings the civilised community of Zanzibar gene-
rally ignore, but the representatives of the European
colony do visit them nevertheless. This special
evening, there was quite a "sprinkling" of the
upper-ten-dom.
As the American party of visitors arrived early, I
was enabled to note how other guests entered into con-
versation, and I wondered to hear each and all after
the first greeting inquire anxiously of the Consul and
his lady, if they had been to " Nazi-Moya " that evening,
to which they responded in the negative ; for it hap-
pened that they had not extended their recreative walk
so far as the classic grounds of Nazi-!Moya that par-
ticular evening.
" Oh," each guest said, in a tone of triumphal and
deli":hted wonderment, " I thono-ht I had not seen vou
there."
""Where, and what is Nazi-Moya?" I was fain to
ask of Capt. Webb.
" Xazi-Moya," said this pleasant cynic, "Xazi-Moya
means in English, ' One Cocoa-tree ;' it is a rendezvous
just behind Ras Shangani (Sandy Point), whither we go
on afternoons to enjoy the fresh sea-breeze. It is the
usual form of opening a conversation, owijig to the
terriljle dearth of topics just now we have to talk
about."
Capt. "Webb spoke truly when he said there was a
"terrible dearth of topics," and subsequent experience
14
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
proved to me that the good Europeans of Zanzibar, in
the absence of legitimate matter, were never slow to
avail themselves of the least bit of scandal, in order to
make the evenings pleasant and agreeable.
The entertainment which the British Consul and his
lady provided for the visitors on their reception evening
consists of a kind of mild wine and cigars ; not, because
they have nothing else* in the house — no decoction of
bohea, or hyson, with a few cakes — but I suppose
because it is the normal and accustomed habit of a free
Zanzibarized European to indulge in something of this
sort, mixed with a little soda or seltzer-water, as a
stimulant to the bits of refined gossip, generally pro-
mulgated under the vinous influence to sympathizing,
interested, and eager listeners.
It was all very fine, I dare say, but I thought it was
the dreariest evening I ever passed, until Dr. Kirk,
pitying the wearisomeness under which I was labouring,
called me aside to submit to my inspection a magnificent
elephant rifle, which he said was a present from a
governor of Bombay. Then I heard eulogies upon its
deadly powers and its fatal accuracy ; I heard anecdotes
of jungle life, adventures experienced while hunting,
and incidents of his travels with Livingstone.
" Ah, yes. Dr. Kirk," I asked carelessly, " about
Livingstone — where is he, do you think, now?"
" AVell, really," he replied, '^you know that is very
difficult to answer ; he may be dead ; there is nothing
positive whereon we can base sufficient reliance. Of
one tlu'ng I am sure, nobody has heard anything definite
of him for over two years. 1 should fancy, though, ho
must be alive. We are continually sending something
up for him. There is a small expedition even now at
Bagamoyo about starting shortly. I really think the
Jan. 1871.]
ZANZIBAR.
15
old man should come home now ; he is growing old, you
know, and if he died, the world would lose the benefit
of his discoveries. He keeps neither notes nor journals ;
it is very seldom he takes observations. He simply
makes a note or dot, or something, on a map, which
nobody could understand but himself. Oh, yes, by all
means if he is alive he should come home, and let a
younger man take his place."
" What kind of a man is he to get along with,
Doctor ?" I asked, feeling now quite interested in his
conversation.
" "Well, I think he is a very diflScult man to deal with
generally. Personally, I have never had a quarrel
with him, but I have seen him in hot water with
fellows so often, and that is principally the reason, I
think, he hates to have any one with him."
" I am told he is a very modest man ; is he ? " I asked.
" Oh, he knows the value of his own discoveries ; tio
man better. He is not quite an angel," said he, with
a laugh.
""Well now, supposing I met him in my travels — I
might possibly stumble across him if he travels any-
where in the direction I am going — how would he
conduct himself towards me ?"
" To tell you the truth," said he, " I do not think he
would like it very well. I know if Burton, or Grant,
or Baker, or any of those fellows were going after him,
and he heard of their coming, Livingstone would ])ut a
hundred miles of swamp in a very short time between
himself and them. I do, upon my word I do."
This was the tenor of the interview I held with
Dr. Kirk— former companion of Livingstone — as well
as my journal and memory can recall it to me.
Need I say this information from a gentleman known
16
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to be Tvell acquainted with Dr. Livingstone, rather had
the effect of damping my ardor for the search, than
adding vigor to it. I felt very much depressed, and
would willingly have resigned my commission ; hut
then the order was, " GrO and find Livingstone."
Besides, I did not suppose, though I had so readily
consented to search for the Doctor, that the path to
Central Africa was strewn with roses. "What though I
were rebuked, as an impertinent interloper in the
domain of Discovery, as a meddler in things that con-
cerned not myself, as one whose absence would he far
more acceptable to him than my presence — had I not
been commanded to find him ? Well, find him I
would, if he were above ground ; if not, then I would
bring what concerned people to know, and keep.
Dr. Kirk very kindly promised to give all the assist-
ance in his power, and whatever experience he
poesessed he was willing, he said, to give me its. full
benefit. But I cannot recollect, neither do I find a
trace of it in my journal, that he assisted me in any
way. Of course, he was not aware that my instruc-
tions were to hunt up Dr. Livingstone, otherwise Dr.
Kirk, I have no doubt, would have made good his
word. He believed I was about to ascend the Rufiji
River to its source. But what newspaper would
despatch a " special " to discover the sources of an in-
significant river like the Rufiji?
The climate o!" Zanzibar is not the most agreeable in
the world. I have heaixl Americans and Europeans
condemn it most heartily. I have also seen nearly one-
half of the white colony laid up in one day from sick-
ness. A noxious malaria is exhaled from the vshallow
inlet of Malagash, and the undrained filth, the garl)age,
offal, dead molhisks, dead pariah dogs, dead cats, all
Jax. 1871.]
ZANZIBAR.
17
species of carrion, remains of men and beasts unburied,
assist \o make Zanzibar a most unbealtby city; and,
considering tbat it ougbt to be a most bealtby city,
nature baving pointed out to man tbe means, and
baving assisted bim so far, it is most wonderful tbat
tbe ruHng prince does not obey tbe dictates of reason.
Tbe bay of Zanzibar is in tbe form of a crescent, and
on tbe soutb-western born of it is built tbe cit}-. On
tbe east tbe city is bounded almost entirely by tbe
Malagasb Lagoon, an inlet of tbe sea. It penetrates to
at least two bundred and fifty yards of tbe sea bebind
or soutb of Shangani Point. Were tbese two bundred
and fifty yards cut tbrougb by a ten foot ditcb, and tbe
inlet deepened sligbtly, Zanzibar city would become an
island of itself, and wbat wonders would it not effect as to
bealtb and salubrity ! I bave never beard tbis sugges-
tion made, but it struck me tbat tbe foreign consuls
resident at Zanzibar migbt suggest tbis work to tbe
sultan, and so get tbe credit of baving made tbe city as
bealtby a place to live in as any near tbe equator. But
apropos of tbis, I remember wbat Capt. Webb, tbe
American Consul, told me on my first arrival, wben I
expressed to bim my wonder at tbe apatby and inert-
ness of men born with the indomitable energy which cha-
racterizes the Europeans and Americans, of men imbued
with tbe progressive and stirring instincts of the white
people, who yet allow themselves to dwindle into pallid
phantoms of their kind, into hypochondriacal invalids,
into hopeless believers in the deadliness of the climate,
with hardly a trace of that daring and invincible spirit
which rules tbe world.
" Oh," said Capt. Webb, " it is all very well for you to
talk about energy and all that kind of thing, but I
assure you tbat a residence of four or five years on this
18
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
island, among such people as are here, would make you
feel that it was a hopeless task to resist the infliie'nce of
the example by which the most energetic spirits are
subdued, and to which they must submit in time,
sooner or later. We were all terribly energetic when
we first came here, and struggled bravely to make things
go on as we were accustomed to have them at home,
but we have found that we were knocking our heads
against granite walls to no purpose whatever. These
fellows — the Arabs, the Ban3'ans, and the Hindis, yoii
can't make them go faster by ever so much scolding and
praying, and in a very short time you see the folly of
fighting against the unconquerable. Be patient, and
don't fret, that is my advice, or you won't live long
here."
There were three or four intensely busy men, though,
at Zanzibar, who were out at all hours of the day. I know
one, an American ; I fancy I hear the quick pit-pat of his
feet on the* pavement beneath the Consulate, his cheery
voice ringing the salutation, " Yambo ! " to every one he
met ; and he had lived at Zanzibar twelve years.
I know another, one of the sturdiest of Scotchmen, the
most pleasant-mannered, unaffected, and sincere in what-
ever he did or said, who has lived at Zanzibar several
years, subject to the infructuosities of the business he has
been engaged in, as well as to the calor and ennui of
the climate, who yet presents as formidable a front as
ever to the apathetic native of Zanzibar. No man can
charge Capt. H. C. Fraser, formerly of the Indian
Navy, with being apathetic, whatever else malice may
suggest.
I might with ease give evidence of the industry of
others, but they are all my friends, and they are all
good. The American, English, Germans, and French
Jan. 1871.]
ZANZIBAB.
residents have ever treated me with a courtesy and
kindness I am not disposed to forget. Taken as a body,
it would be hard to find a more generous or hospitable
colony of white men in any part of the world.
In a great tall house with a certain grandeur of vast-
ness about it, topped with the queerest of all steeples,
situated on Shangani Point, Bishop Tozer, his disciples,
his choristers and his flock, have found excellent quar-
ters. The Bishop, who styles himself " Missionary Bishop
of Central Africa," is one of the politest men lever knew.
I believe he is called the "fighting parson" — a plagia-
ristic appellation when bestowed on him, since Dr.
Livingstone first received it from the Duke of Wellington.
Bishop Tozer, however, is said to have fought an insolent
rowdy, on his way to church ; and after having punished
him at a boxing-match, offered to punish his com-
panions one aftej" another in the same way, which offer
was refused. This feat of pugilism by Bishop Tozer
converted these wolves into lambs, and won for him the
title of Bishop, and the happy sinecure he holds.
The Bishop in his crimson robe, and with his sacer-
dotal title "Missionary Bishop of Central Africa" (why
he should be so named I cannot conceive), has reached
the bourne of aspiring priesthood, and is consequently
ineffably happy. But this High Church (very High
Church indeed) prelate in his crimson robe of office,
and in the queerest of all head-dresses, seen stalking
through the streets of Zanzibar, or haggling over the
price of a tin-pot at a tinker's stall, is the most ridiculous
sight I have seen anywhere outside of a clown show. I
as a white man solemnly protest against the absurdity.
A similar picture to the Bishop, in his priestly robes and
a paper cap, in a tinker's stall, is tlie King of Dahomey
in a European hat with his body naked, promenading
0 2
20
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
pompously about in this exquisite full dress. Whatever
the Bishop in his blissful innocence may think of the
effect which it produces in the minds of the heathen, I
can inform him, that to the Arabs and Wanguana who
have settled in Unyanyembe he is only an object of
supreme ridicule ; and also, that most of his pale-faced
brothers entertain something of the sSme opinion.
Poor, dear Bishop Tozer ! I would fain love and
• admire thee, were it not for this exhibition of extreme
High-Churchism in a place like Zanzibar !
The French missionaries have proceeded actively to
work in a true practical spirit. They not only endea-
vour to instil into the minds of their numerous converts
the principles of religion, but also to educate them in the
business of life. They teach their young disciples various
useful trades ; they produce agriculturists, carpenters,
blacksmiths, boat-builders, and mechanical engineers
among them. Their various departments of instruction
have able, efficient, and laborious teachers. Their
shops at Zanzibar form one of the sights which a
stratlger would wish to see. At Bagamoyo, on the
mainland, their mission station is on an extensive scale.
The estate adjoining the mission station, cultivated
by their young pupils, is a model of industry ; and the
products serve to more than support the institution
with all the necessaries of life. The converts and
pupils they are educating exceed more than two
hundred.
Jak. 1871.]
CHAPTER II.
ORGAXIZATIOX OF THE EXPEDITIOX.
I VTAB totally ignorant of the interior, and it was difficult
at first to know what I needed, in order to take an
expedition into Central Africa. Time was precious,
also, and much of it could not be devoted to inquiry
and investigation. In a case like this, it would have
been a godsend, I thought, had either of the three
gentlemen. Captains Burton, Speke, or Grant, given
some information on these points ; had they devoted a
chapter upon, " How to get ready an Expedition for
Central Africa." The purpose of this chapter, then, is
to relate how I set about it, that other travellers
coming after me may have the benefit of my expe-
rience.
These are some of the questions I asked myself, as I
tossed on my bed at night : —
" How much money is required ? "
" How many pagazis, or carriers ? "
How many soldiers ?"
" How much cloth?"
" How many beads ? "
" How much wire ?"
" What kinds of cloth are required for the differeut
tribes ? "
22
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Ever so many questions to myself brought me no
nearer tlie exact point I wished to arrive at. I scribbled
over scores of sheets of j^aper, making estimates, draw
ing out lists of material, calculating the cost of keeping
one hundred men for one year, at so many yards of dif-
ferent kinds of cloth, etc. I studied Burton, Speke,
and Grant in vain. A good deal of geographical,
ethnological, and otlier information appertaining to the
study of Inner Africa was obtainable, but information
respecting the organization of an expedition requisite
before proceeding to Africa, was not in any book. I
threw the books from me in disgust. The Europeans
at Zanzibar knew as little as possible about this par-
ticular point. There was not one white man at Zanzi-
bar, who could tell how many dotis a day a force of one
hundred men required for food on the road. Neither,
indeed, was it their business to know. But what should
I do at all, at all ? This was a grand question,
I decided it were best to hunt up an Arab merchant
who had been engaged in the ivory trade, or who was
fresh from the interior.
Sheikh Hashid was a man of note and of wealth in
Zanzibar. He had himself despatched several caravans
into the interior, and was necessarily acquainted with
several prominent traders who came to his house to
gossip about their adventures and gains. He was also
the proprietor of the large house Capt. Webb occu-
pied ; besides, he lived across the narrow street which
separated his house from the Consulate. Of all men
Sheikh Hashid was the man to be consulted, and he
was accordingly invited to visit me at the Consulate.
From the grey-bearded and venerable-looking
Sheikh, I elicited more information about African
cuiicncy, the mode of procedure, the quantity and
Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF TEE EXPEDITION.
23
quality of stuffs I required, than I had obtained from
three months study of books upon Central Africa ; and
from other Arab merchants to whom the ancient Sheikh
introduced me, I received most valuable suggestions
and hints, which enabled me at last to organize an
expedition.
The reader must bear in mind that a traveller
requires only that which is sufficient for travel and
exploration; that a superfluity of goods*or means will
prove as fatal to him as poverty of supplies. It is on
this question of quality and quantity that the traveller
has first to exercise his judgment and discretion.
My informants gave me to understand that for one
hundred men, 10 doti, or 40 yards of cloth per diem,
would suftice for food. The proper course to pursue, I
found, was to purchase 2,000 doti of American sheeting,
1,000 doti of Kaniki, and 650 doti of the coloured
cloths, such as Barsati, a great favourite in Unyam-
wezi ; Sohari, taken in Ugogo ; Ismahili, Taujiri,
Joho, Shash, Rehani, Jamdani or Kunguru-Cutch,
blue and pink. These were deemed amply sufficient
for the subsistence of one liundred men for twelve
months. Two years at this rate would require 4000
doti = 16,000 yards of American sheeting; 2,000
doti = 8,000 yards of Kaniki ; 1,300 doti = 5,200
yards of mixed coloured clotlis. This was definite
and valuable information to me, and excepting the lack
jf some suggestions as to the quality of the sheeting,
Kan i i, and coloured cloths, I had obtained all I desired
upon this point. Second in importance to the aKUjunt
of cloth required was the quantity and quality of the
beads necessary. Beads, I was told, took the place of
cloth currency among some tribes of the interior. One
tribe preferred white to black beads, brown to yellow,
24
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
red to green, green to white, and so on. Thus, in
Unyamwezi, red (sami-sami) beads would readily be
taken, where all other kinds would be refused ; black
(bubu) beads, though currency in Ugogo, were posi-
tively worthless with all other tribes ; the egg (sungo-
mazzi) beads, though valuable in Ujiji and Uguhha,
would be refused in all other countries ; the white
(Merikani) beads, though good in Ufipa, and some
parts of Usagara and Ugogo, would certainly be
despised in Useguhha, and Ukonongo. Such being the
case, I was obliged to study closely, and calculate the
probable stay of an expedition in the several countries,
so as to be sure to provide a sufEciency of each kind,
and guard against any great overplus. Burton and
Speke, for instance, were obliged to throw away as
worthless several hundred fundo of beads.
For example, supposing the several nations of Europe
had each its own currency, without the means of
exchange, and supposing a man was about to travel
through Europe on foot, before starting he would be
apt to calculate how many days it would take him to
travel through France ; how many through Prussia,
Austria, and Russia, then to reckon the expense he
would be likely to incur per day. If the expense be
set down at a napoleon per day, and his journey through
France would occupy thirty days, the sum required for
going and returning might be properly set down at
sixty napoleons, in which case, napoleons not being
current money in Prussia, Austria, or Russia, it would be
utterly useless for him to burden himself with the weight
of a couple of thousand napoleons in gold.
My anxiety on this point was most excruciating.
Over and over I studied the hard names and measures,
conned again and again the polysyllables, hoping to be
Jah. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
25
able to arrive some time at an intelligible definition of
the terms. I revolved in my iiind the words Mukun-
guru, Ghulabio, Sungomazzi, Kadunduguru, Mutunda,
Sami-sami, Bubu, Merikani, Hafde, Lunghio-Rega,
and Lakhio, until I was fairly beside myself. Finally,
however, I came to the conclusion that if I reckoned
my requirements at fifty khete, or five fundo per day,
for two years, and if I purchased only eleven varieties,
I might consider myself safe enough. The purchase
was accordingly made, and twenty-two sacks of the
best species were packed and brought to Capt. Webb's
house, ready for transportation to Bagamoyo.
After the beads came the wire question. I discovered,
after considerable trouble,' that Nos. 5 and 6 — almost
of the thickness of telegraph wire — were considered the
best numbers for trading purposes. While beads stand
for copper coins in Africa, cloth measures for silver ;
wire is reckoned as gold in the countries beyond the
Tan-ga-ni-ka.* Ten frasilah, or 350 lbs., of brass-wire,
my Arab adviser thought, would be ample.
Having purchased the cloth, the beads, and the wire,
it was with no little pride that I surveyed the comely
bales and packages lying piled up, row above row, in
Capt. Webb's capacious store-room. Yet my work was
not ended, it was but beginning ; there were provisions,
cooking-utensils, boats, rope, twine, tents, donkeys,
saddles, bagging, canvas, tar, needles, tools, ammu-
nition, guns, equipments, hatchets, medicines, bedding,
presents for chiefs — in short, a thousand things not yet
purchased. The ordeal of chaffering and haggling
with steel-hearted Banyans, Hindis, Arabs, and halt-
castes was most trying. For instance, I i)urchased
* It will bo 80CU that I differ from dipt. Bm'tou in tlic spelling
of this word, as I deem tlio letter " y " Buperfluous.
26 EOW I FOUXn LIVINGSTONE.
twenty-two donkeys at Zanzibar. $40 and $50 were
asked, which I had to reduce to $15 or $20 by an
infinite qmount of argument worthy, I think, of a nobler
cause. As was my experience with the ass-dealers so it
was with the petty merchants ; even a paper of pins
was not purchased without a five per cent, reduction
from the price demanded, involving, of course, a loss
of much time and patience.
After collecting the donkeys, I discovered there were
no pack-saddles to be obtained in Zanzibar. Donkeys
without pack-saddles were of no use whatever. • I in-
vented a saddle to be manufactured by myself and my
white man Farquhar, wholly from canvas, rope, and
cotton.
Three or four frasilahs of cotton, and ten bolts of
canvas were required for the saddles. A specimen
saddle was made by myself in order to test its efficiency.
A donkey was taken and saddled, and a load of 140 lbs.
was fastened to it, and though the animal — a wild
creature of Unyamwezi — struggled and reared franti-
cally, not a particle gave way. After this experiment,
Farquhar was set to work to manufacture twenty-one
more after the same pattern. Woollen pads were also
purchased to protect the animals from being galled. It
ought to be mentioned here, perhaps, that the idea of
such a saddle as I manufactured, was first derived from
the Otago saddle, in use among the transport-trains of
the English army in Abyssinia.
A man named John William Shaw — a native of
London, England, lately third-mate of the American
ship 'Nevada' — apitlied to me for work. Though his
discharge from the ' Nevada ' was rather suspicions,
yet he possessed all the requirements of such a man as
I needed, and was an experienced hand with the palm
Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF TEFl EXPEDITION.
27
and needle, could cut canvas to fit anything, was a
pretty good navigator, ready and willing, as far as his
professions went. I saw no reason to refuse his service.?,
and he was accordingly engaged at $300 per annum,
to rank second to William L. Farquhar.
Farquhar was a capital navigator and excellent ma-
thematician ; was strong, energetic, and clever ; but, I
am sorry to say, a hard drinker. Every day, while we
lived at Zanzibar, he was in a muddled condition, and
the dissipated, vicious life he led at this place proved
fatal to him, as will be seen, shortly after penetrating
into the interior.
The next thing I was engaged upon was to enlist,
arm, and equip, a faithful escort of twenty men for the
road. Johari, the chief dragoman of the American
Consulate, informed me that he knew where certain of
Speke's " Faithfuls " were yet to be found. The idea
had struck me before, that if I could obtain the services
of a few men acquainted with the ways of white men,
and who could induce other good men to join the
expedition I was organizing, I might consider myself
fortunate. More especially had I thought of Seedy
Mbarak Mombay, cOmmonly called " J3ombay," who
though his head was " woodeny," and his hands
" clumsy," was considered io be the " fiithfulest " of
the " Faithfuls."
With the aid of the dragoman Johari, I secured in a
few hours the services of Uledi (Capt. Grant's former
valet), Ulimengo, Baruti, Ambari, Mabruki (Muinyi
Mabruki — Bull-headed Mabruki, Capt. Burton's former
unliappy valet) — five of Speke's " Faithfuls." When I
asked the'm if they were willing to join another white
man'8 expedition to Ujiji, they replied very readily that
tlicy were willing to join any brother of '* Speke's."
28
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Dr. John Kirk, Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, who
was present, told them that though I was no brother
of " Speke's," I spoke his language. This distinction
mattered little to them, and I heard them, with great
delight, declare their readiness to go anywhere with
me, or do anything I wished.
Mombay, as they called him, or Bombay, as we
Wasungu know him, had gone to Pemba, an island ly-
ing north of Zanzibar. Uledi was sure Mombay would
jump with joy at the prospect of another expedition.
Johari was therefore commissioned to write to him
at Pemba, to inform him of the good fortune in store
for him.
On the fourth morning after the letter had been
despatched, the famous Bombay made his appearance,
followed in decent order and due rank by the " Faith-
fuls" of " Speke." I looked in vain for the " woodeny
head " and " alligator teeth " with which his former
master had endowed him. I saw a slender short man
of fifty or thereabouts, with a grizzled head, an un-
commonly high, narrow forehead, with a very large
mouth, showing teeth very irregular, and wide apart.
An ugly rent in the upper front row of Bombay's
teeth was made with the clenched fist of Capt. Speke
in Uganda, when his master's patience was worn out,
and prompt punishment became necessary. That Capt.
Speke had spoiled him with kindness was evident,
from tlie fact that Bombay had the audacity to stand up
for a boxing match with him. But. these things I only
found out when, months afterwards, I was called upon
to administer punishment to him myself. But, at
his first appearance, I was favourably impressed with
Bombay, though his face was rugged, his mouth large,
his eyes small, and his nose flat.
Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
29
"Salaam aliekum," were the words be greeted me
with.
" Aliekum salaam," I replied, with all the gravity I
could muster. I then informed him I required him as
captain .of my soldiers to Ujiji. His reply was that he
was ready to do whatever I told him, go wherever I
liked — in short, be a pattern to servants, and a model
to soldiers. He' hoped I would give him a uniform,
and a good gun, both of which were promised.
Upon inquiring for the rest of the Faithfuls " who
accompanied Speke into Eg}^t, I was told that at
Zanzibar there were but six. Ferrajji, Maktub, Sadik,
Sunguru, Manyu, Matajari, Mkata, and Almas, were
dead ; Uledi and Mtamani were in Unyanyembe ;
Hassan had gone to Kilwa, and Ferahan was supposed
to be in Ujiji.
Out of the six " Faithfuls," each of whom still retained
his medal for assisting in the " Discovery of the Sources
of the Nile," one, poor Mabruki, had met with a sad
misfortune which I feared would incapacitate him from
active usefulness.
Mabruki the " Bull-headed," owned a shamba (or a
house with a garden attached to it), of which he was
very proud. Close to him lived a neighbour in similar
circumstances, who was a soldier of Syed Majid, with
whom ]\Iabruki, who was of a quarrelsome disposition,
had a feud, which culminated in the soldier inducing
two or three of his com.rades to assist him in punish-
ing the malevolent Mabruki, and this was done in a
manner that only the heart of an African could con-
ceive. They tied the unfortunate fellow by his wri.sts
to a branch of a tree, and after indulging their brutal
appetite for revenge in torturing him, left him to hang
iu that position for two days. At the expiration of
30
HOTV J FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the second day, he was accidentally discovered in a
most pitiable condition. His hands had sTvollen to an
immense size, and the veins of one hand having been
ruptured, he had lost its use. It is needless to say that,
when the affair came to Syed Majid's ears, the miscreants
were severely punished. Dr. Kirk, who attended the
poor fellow, succeeded in restoring one hand to some-
thing of a resemblance of its former shape, but the other
hand is sadly marred, and its former usefulness gone
for ever.
However, I engaged Mabniki, despite his deformed
hands, his ugliness and vanity, despite Burton's bad
report of him, because he was one of Speke's " Faith-
fuls." For if he but wagged his tongue in my
service, kept his eyes open, and opened his mouth at
the proper time, I assured myself I could make him
useful.
Bombay, my captain of escort, succeeded in getting
eighteen more free men to volunteer as " askari "
(soldiers), men whom he knew would not desert, and
for whom he declared himself responsible. They were
an exceedingly fine-looking body of men, far more
intelligent in appearance than I could ever have
believed African barbarians could be. They hailed
principally from Uhiyow, others from Unyamwezi, some
came from Useguhha and Ugindo.
Their wages were set down at $36 each man per
annum, or $3 each per month. Each soldier was pro-
vided with a flintlock, musket, powder horn, bullet,
pouch, knife, and hatchet, besides enough powder and
ball for 200 rounds.
Bombay, in consideration of his rank, and previous
faithful services to Burton, Speke, and Grant, was en-
gaged at $80 a year, half that sum in advance, a good
Jan. 1871.] OBGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION. 31
muzzle-loading rifle, besides, a pistol, knife, and hatchet
were given to him, while the other five " Faithfuls,"
Ambari, Mabruki, Ulimengo, Baruti, and Uledi, were
engaged at $40 a year, with proper equipments as
soldiers.
Having studied fairly well all the East African
travellers' books regarding Eastern and Central Africa,
my mind had conceived the difficulties which would
present themselves during the prosecution of my search
after Dr. Livingstone.
To obviate all of these, as well as human wit could
suggest, was my constant thought and aim.
*' Shall I permit m3'self, while looking from Ujiji over
the waters of the Tanganika Lake to the other side,
to be balked on the threshold of success by the insolence
of a King Kannena or the caprice of a Hamed bin
Sulayyam ? " was a question I asked myself To guard
against such a contingency I determined to carry my
own boats. " Then," I thought, " if I hear of Livingstone
being on the Tanganika, I can launch my boat and
proceed after him."
I procured one large boat, capable of carrying twenty
persons, with stores and goods sufficient for a cruise,
from the American Consul, for the sum of $80, and a
smaller one. from another American gentleman for $40.
The latter would hold comfortably six men, with suit-
able stores.
I did not intend to carry the boats whole or bodily,
but to strip them of their boards, and carry the timbers
and thwarts only. As a substitute for the boards, I
proposed to cover each boat with a double canvas skin
well tarred. The work of .stripping them and taking
them to pieces fell to me. Tliis' little job occupied me
five days. I also packed them up, for the pagazis.
32
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Each load was carefully weighed, and none exceeded
68 lbs. in weight.
J ohn Shaw excelled himself in the workmanship dis-
played on the canvas-boats ; when finished, they fitted
their frames admirably. The canvas — six bolts of Eng-
lish hemp, No. 3 — was procured from Ludhai Damj,
who furnished it from the sultan's storeroom.
An insuperable obstacle to rapid transit in Africa is
the want of carriers, and as speed was the main object
of the Expedition under my command, my duty was to
lessen this difficulty as much as possible. My carriers
could only be engaged after arriving at Bagamoyo,
on the mainland. I had over twenty good donkeys
ready, and I thought a cart adapted for the goat-
paths of Africa might prove an advantage. Accord-
ingly I had a cart constructed, eighteen inches wide
and five feet long, supplied with two fore-wheels of a
light American wagon, more for the purpose of con-
veying the narrow ammunition-boxes. I estimated
that if a donkey could carry to Unyanyembe a load of
four frasilahs, or 140 lbs., he ought to be able to draw
eight frasilahs on such a cart, which would be equal to
the carrying capacity of four stout pagazis or carriers.
Events will prove, how my theories were borne out by
practice.
When my purchases were completed, and I beheld
them piled up, tier after tier, row upon row, here a
mass of cooking-utensils, there bundles of rope, tents,
saddles, a pile of portmanteaus and boxes,, containing
every imaginable thing, I confess I was rather abashed
at my own lemerity. Here were at least six tons of
material ! " IIow will it ever be possible," I thought,
"to move all this inert mass across the wilderness
stretching between the sea, and the great lakes of
Jan. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF TEE EXPEDITION.
33
Africa ? Bah, cast all doubts away, man, and have at
them ! ' Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof,' with-
out borrowing from the morrow."
The traveller, with a lake in the centre of that
broad African continent before him, must needs make
his way there after a fashion very different from that to
which he has been accustomed in other countries. He
requires to take with him just what a ship must have
when about to sail on a long voyage. He must have
his slop chest, his little store of canned dainties, and his
medicines, besides which, he must have enough guns,
powder, and ball to be able to make a series of good
fights if necessary. He must have men to convey these
miscellaneous articles ; and as a man's maximum load
does not exceed 70 lbs., to convey 11,000 lbs. requires
nearly 160 men.
Europe and the Orient, even Arabia and Turkestan,
have royal ways of travelling compared to Africa.
Specie is received in all those countries, by which a
traveller may carry his means about with him on his
own person. Eastern and Central Africa, however,
demand a necklace, instead of a cent ; two yards of
American sheeting, instead of half a dollar, or a florin,
and a kitindi of thick brass-wire, in place of a gold piece.
The African traveller can hire neither wagons nor
camels, neither horses nor mules, to proceed with him
into the interior. His means of conveyance are limited
to black and naked men, who demand at least $15 a
head for every 70 lbs. weight carried only as far as
Unyanyembc.
One thing amongst others my predecessors omitted
to infoim men bound for Africa, which is of importance,
and that is, that no traveller should ever think of c6ming
to Zanzibar with his money in any other shape than
D
34
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
gold coin. Letters of credit, circular notes, and such
civilized things I have found to be a century ahead of
Zanzibar people.
Twenty and twenty-five cents deducted out of every
dollar I drew on paper is one of the unpleasant, if not
unpleasantest things I have committed to lasting
memory. For Zanzibar is a spot far removed from
all avenues of European commerce, and coin is at a
high premium. A man may talk and entreat, but though
he may have drafts, cheques, circular notes, letters of
credit, a carte-blanche to get what he wants, out of
every dollar must be deducted twenty, twenty-five and
thirty cents, so I was told, and so was my experience.
What a pity there is no branch-bank here !
I had intended to have gone into Africa incognito.
But the fact that a white man, even- an American, was
about to enter Africa was soon known all over
Zanzibar. This fact was repeated a thousand times in
the streets, proclaimed in all shop alcoves, and at the
custom-house. The native bazaar laid hold of it, and
agitated it day and night until my departure. The
foreigners, including the Europeans, wished to know
the pros and cons of my coming in and going out.
My answer to all questions, pertinent and impertinent,
was, I am going to Africa. Though my card bore the
words
Heath y M. Stanley.
NetB York Herald.
very few, I believe, ever coupled the woids "New
Jan. 1871] OBGANIZATION OF TEE EXPEDITION.
35
York Herald " -^ath a search after " Doctor Living-
stone." It was not my fault, was it ?
Ah, me ! what hard work it is to start an expedition
alone ! TVhat with hurrying through the baking heat
of the fierce relentless sun from shop to shop,
strengthening myself with far-reaching and enduring
patience for the haggling contest with the livid-faced
Hindi, summoning courage and wit to brow-beat the
villainous Goanese, and match the foxy Banyan, talking
volumes throughout the day, correcting estimates,
making up accounts, superintending the delivery of pur-
chased articles, measuring and weighing them, to see
that everything was of full measure and weight, over-
seeing the white men Farquhar and Shaw, who were
busy on donkey saddles, sails, tents, and boats for the
Expedition, I felt, when the day was over, as though
limbs and brain well deserved their rest.- Such labours
were mine unremittingly for a month.
Having bartered drafts on Mr. James Gordon
Bennett to the amount of several thousand dollars for
cloth, beads, wire, donkeys, and a thousand necessaries,
having advanced pay to tbe white men, and l)lack escort
of the Expedition, having fretted Capt. Webb and his
family more than enough with the din of preparation,
and filled his house with my goods, there was nothing
further to do but to leave my formal adieus with the
Europeans, and thank the Sultan and those gentlemen
who had assisted me, before embarking for Baganioyo.
The day before my departure from Zanzibar the
American Consul, having just habited himself in his
black coat, and taking with him an extra black hat,
in order to be in state apparel, proceeded with me to
the Sultan's palace. The Prince had been generous
to me ; he had presented me with an Arab horse, had
P 2
36
HOW I FOUND LB'ING STONE.
furnislied me with letters of introduction to his agents,
his chief men, and representatives in the interior, and
in many other ways had shown himself well disposed
towards me.
The palace is a large, roomy, lofty, square house
close to the fort, built of coral, and plastered thickly
with lime mortar. In appearance it is half Arabic and
half Italian. The shutters are Yenetian blinds painted
a vivid green, and presenting a striking contrast to the
whitewashed walls. Before the great, lofty, wide
door were ranged in two crescents several Baluch
and Persian mercenaries, armed with curved swords
and targes of rhinoceros hide. Their dress was a
muddy-white cotton shirt, reaching to the ancles,
girdled with a leather belt thickly studded with silver
bosses.
As we came in sight a signal was passed to some
person inside the entrance. When within twenty yards
of the door, the Sultan, who was standing waiting,
came down the steps, and, passing through the ranks,
advanced toward us, with his right hand stretched out,
and a genial smile of welcome on his face. On our
side we raised our hats, and shook hands with him, after
which, doing according as he bade us, we passed forward,
and arrived on the highest step near the entrance door.
He pointed forward ; we bowed, and arrived at the foot
of an unpainted and narrow staircase to turn once more
to the Sultan. " Go on," he said, and we ascended the
stairs with my feelings greatly shocked, for the Sultan
coming immediately after me, was placed in a most
ignominious position for a sovereign prince. The
Consul, I perceived, was ascending sideways, a mode
of progression which I saw was intended for a compro-
mise with decency and dignity ; I imitated him as well
Jan. 1871.J ORGANIZATION OF TEE EXPEDITION.
37
as I was able, but I nevertheless thought my position
rather peculiar. At the top of the stairs we waited,
with our faces towards the up-coming Prince. Again
we were waived magnanimously forward, for before us
was the reception hall and throne-room. I noticed, as I
marched forward to the furthest end, that the room was
high, and painted in the Arabic style, that the carpet
was thick and pf Persian fabric, that the furniture con-
sisted of a dozen gilt chairs and a chandelier.
We were seated ; Ludha Damji, the Banyan collector
of customs, a venerable-looking old man, with a shrewd
intelligent face, sat on the right of the Sultan ; next to
him was the great Mohammedan merchant, Tarya
Topan, W'ho had come to be present at the interview,
not only because he was one of the councillors of His
Highness, but because he also took a lively interest
in this American Expedition. Opposite to Ludha sat
Capt. Webb, and next to him I was seated, opposite
Tarya Topan. The Sultan sat in a gilt chair between
the Americans and the councillors. Johari the drago-
man stood humbly before the Sultan, expectant and
ready to interpret what we had to communicate to
the Prince.
The Sultan, so far as dress goes, might be taken for a
Mingrelian gentleman, excepting, indeed, for the turban,
whose ample folds in alternate colours of red, yellow,
brown, and w'hite, encircled his head. His long robe
was of dark cloth, cinctured round the waist witii his
rich sword-belt, from which was suspended a gold-hilted
scimitar, encased in a scabbard also enriched with gold.
His legs and feet were bare, and had a ponderous look
about them, since he suffered from that strange curse
of Zanzibar — elephantiasis. His feet were 8lip])ed
into a pair of watta (Arabic for slippers), with thick
88
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTON!!.
soles, and a strong leathern band over the instep. His
light complexion and his correct features, which are
intelligent and regular, bespeak the Arab patrician.
They indicate, however, nothing except his high descent
and blood ; no traits of character are visible unless there
is just a trace of amiability, and perfect contentment
with himself and all around.
Such is Prince, or Syed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzi-
bar and Pemba, and the East coast of Africa, from
Somali Land to the Mozambique, as he appeared to me.
Coffee was served in cups supported by golden fin-
jans, also some cocoa-nut milk, and rich sweet sherbet.
The conversation began with the question addressed
to the Consul,
" Are you well ?"
Consul. — " Yes, thank you. How is His Highness ?"
Highness. — " Quite well !"
Highness to me. — "Are you well ?"
Answer. — " Quite well, thanks ! "
The Consul now introduces business ; and questions
about my travels follow from His Highness —
"How do you like Persia?"
"Have you seen Kerbela, Bagdad, Masr, Stamboul ?"
" Have the Turks many soldiers ? "
" How many has Persia ? "
" Is Persia fertile ? "
" How do you like Zanzibar ? "
Having answered each question to liis Highness
satisfaction, he handed me letters of introduction to his
officers at Bagamoyo and Kaole, and a general intro-
ductory letter to all Arab merchants whom I might
meet on the road, and concluded his remarks to me,
with the expressed hope, that on whatever mission I
was bound, I should be perfectly successful.
Feb. 1871.] ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDITION.
39
We bowed ourselves out of his presence in much the
same manner that we had bowed ourselves in, he
accompanying us to the great entrance door.
Mr. Goodhue of Salem, an American merchant long
resident in Zanzibar, presented me, as I gave him my
adieu, with a blooded bay horse, imported from the Cape
of Good Hope, and worth, at least at Zanzibar, $500.
Feb. 4. — By the 4th of February, twenty-eight days
from the date of my arrival at Zanzibar, the organization
and equipment of the " New York Herald Expedition "
was complete ; tents and saddles had been manufac-
tured, boats and sails were ready. The donkeys brayed,
and the horses neighed impatiently for the road.
Etiquette demanded that I should once more present
my card to the European and American Consuls at
Zanzibar, and the word "farewell " was said to every-
body.
On the fifth day, four dhows were anchored before
the American Consulate. Into one were lifted the two
horses, into two others the donkeys, into the fourth,
the largest, the black escort, and bulky moneys of the
Expedition.
When about to give the order to sail, the two M'hite
men, Farquhar and Shaw, were absent. They were
found, after a vigorous hunt, among the liquor shops,
surrounded by about a dozen boon companions, hold-
ing forth upon the greatness of the art of African
exploration, trying to stave off with the aid of whisky
the dread presentiments tliat would insidiously now and
then obtrude them.selves into their minds, warnino- them
that though new lands were about to be revealed to
them, with all the fantastic scenes credited to tlie new
country, there might be something in these strange
parts that might — " well, what ?"
40
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
" Get into the dhows at once, men. This is rather a
bad beginning after signing contracts," I said, as I saw
them reeling to the beach in company of Bombay, and
four or five of the newly-enlisted escort.
" If you please, sir, may I ask if — if — if you think I
have done quite -right in promising to go with you to
Afriky ?" asked Shaw, in a most hesitating and dolor-
ous tone.
Have you not received your advance ? Have you
not signed the contract ?" I asked ; " and do you now
wish to withdraw ? Gret into the boat, man, at once.
We are all in for it now, sink or swim, live or die —
none can desert his duty."
A little before noon we set sail. The American flag,
a present to the Expedition by that kind-hearted lady,
Mrs. Webb, was raised to the mast-head; the Consul, his
lady, and exuberant little children, Mary and Charley,
were on the housetop waving the starry banner, hats,
and handkerchiefs, a token of farewell to me and mine.
Happy people, and good ! may their course and ours be
prosperous, and may God's blessing rest on us all !
CAMP AT BAGAMOYO
CHAPTER III.
LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
The Isle of Zanzibar with its groves of cocoa-nut,
mango, clove, and cinnamon, and its sentinel islets of
Churabi and French, witli its whitewashed city and jack-
fruit odor, with its harbor and ships that tread the deep,
faded slowly from view, and looking westward, the
African continent rose, a similar bank of green verdure
to thatwhicli had just receded till it was a mere sinuous
line above the horizon, looming in a northerly direction
to the sublimity of a mountain chain. The distance
across from Zanzibar to Bagamoyo may be about twenty-
five miles, yet it took the dull and lazy dhows ten hours
before they dro[)i)ed anchor on the top of tlie coral
reef plainly visible a few feet above the surface of the
water, within a hundred yards of the beach.
42
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The newly -enlisted soldiers, fond of noise and excite-
ment, discharged repeated salvos by way of a salute to
the mixed crowd of Arabs, Banyans and Wasawahili,
who stood on the beach to receive the Mnsiiogu (white
man), which they did with a general stare and a chorus
of " Yambo, Bana ?" (how are you, master ?)
In our own land the meeting with a large crowd is
rather a tedious operation, as our independent citizens
.insist on an interlacing of digits, and a vigorous shaking
thereof before their pride is satisfied, and the peaceful
manifestation endorsed ; but on this beach, well lined
with spectators, a response of " Yambo, Bana!" sufficed,
except with one who of all there was acknowledged the
greatest, and who, claiming, like all great men, indi-
vidual attention, came forward to exchange another
" Yambo !" on his own behalf, and to shake hands.
This personage with a long trailing turban, was Jema-
dar Esau, commandant (French), commander (English),
of the Zanzibar force of soldiers, police, or Baluch gen-
darmes stationed at Bagamoyo. He had accompanied
Speke and Grant a good distance into the interior,
and they, like all English travellers, had rewarded
him liberally. He took upon himself the responsibility
of assisting in the debarkation of the Expedition, and
unworthy as was his appearance, disgraceful as he was
in his filth, and with his hirsute face, I here commend
him for his influence over the rabble to all future East
African travellers. Foremost among those who wel-
comed us was a Father of the Society of St.-Esprit, who
with other Jesuits, under Father Superior Horner, have
established a missionary post of considerable influence
and merit at Bagamoyo. We were invited to partake
of the hospitality of the Mission, to take our meals
there, and, should we desire it, to pitch our camp on
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAOAMOTO.
43
tlieir grounds. But however strong the geniality of
the welcome and -sincere the heartiness of the invita-
tion, I am one of those who prefer independence to
dependence,if it is possible. Besides, my sense of the
obligation between host and guest had just had a fine
edge put upon it by the delicate forbearance of my
kind host at Zanzibar, who had betrayed no sign of
impatience at the trouble I was only too conscious of
having caused him. I therefore informed the hospitable
Padre, that only for one night could I suffer myself to
be enticed from my camj).
I selected a house near the western outskirts of the
town, where there is a large open square through
which the road from Unyanyembe enters. Had I been
at Bagamoyo a month, I could not have bettered my
location. My tents were pitched fronting the tembe
(house) I had chosen, enclosing a small square, where
business could be transacted, bales looked over, examined,
and marked, free from the intrusion of curious sight-
seers. After driving the twenty-seven animals of the
Expedition into the enclosure in the rear of the house,
storing the bales of goods, and ])lacing a cordon of
soldiers round, I proceeded to the Jesuit Mission, to a
late dinner, being tired and ravenous, leaving the
newly-formed camp in charge of the white men and
Capt. Bombay.
The Mission is distant from the town a good half mile,
to the north of it; it is quite a village of itself, num-
bering some fifteen or sixteen houses. There are some
ten padres engaged in the establishment, and as many
sisters, ;ind all find ])lenty of occupation in educing
from native crania the fire of iiitelligence. Truth com-
pels me to state that they are very successful, having
over two hundred pupils, boys and girls, in the Mission,
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
and, from the oldest to the youngest, they show the
impress of the useful education they have received.
The dinner furnished to the padres and their guest
consisted of as many plats as a first-class hotel in Paris
usually supplies, and cooked with nearly as much skill,
though the surroundings were by no means equal. I
feel assured also that the padres, besides being tasteful
in their potages and entrees, do not stultify their ideas
for lack of that element which Hoiace, Hafiz, and
Byron have praised so much. The champagne — think of
champagne Cliquot in East Africa ! — Lafitte, La Rose,
Burgundy, and Bordeaux were of first-rate quality,
and the meek and lowly eyes of the fathers Avere not
a little brightened under the vinous influence. Ah !
those fathers understand life, and appreciate its dura-
tion. Their festive board drives the Mukunguru
(African jungle fever) from their doors, while it soothes
the gloom and isolation which strike one with awe,
as one emerges from the lighted room and plunges
into the depths of the darkness of an African night,
enlivened only by the wearying monotone of the frogs
and crickets, and the distant ululation of the hytena.
It requires somewhat above human effort, unaided by
the ruby liquid that cheers, to be always suave and
polite amid the dismalities of native life in Africa.
After the evening meal, which replenished my failing
strength, and for which I felt the intensest gratitude,
the most advanced of the pupils came forward, to the
number of twenty, with brass instrurnents, thus forming
a full band of music. It rather astonished me to hear
the sounds issue forth in such harmony from such
woolly-headed youngsters ; to hear well-known French
music at this isolated port, to hear negro boys, that a
few months ago knew nothing beyond the traditions
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAG AMD TO.
•46
of their ignorant mothers, stand forth and chant Parisian
songs about French valor and glory, with all the sang-
froid of gamins from the purlieus of Saint-Antoine.
I had a most refreshing night's rest, and at dawn I
sought out my camp, with a will to enjoy the new
life now commencing. On counting the animals, two
donkeys were missing ; and on taking notes of my
African monevs, one coil of No. 6 wire was not to
be found. Everybody had evidently fallen on the
ground to sleep, oblivious of the fact that on the Mrima
there are many dishonest prowlers at night. Soldiers
were despatched to search through the town and
neighbourhood, and Jemadar Esau, he of the trailing
lurban, the filthy face and neck, was apprised of our loss,
and stimulated to discover the animals by the promise of
a reward. Before night one of the missing donkeys was
found outside the town nibbling at manioc-leaves, but
the other animal and the coil of wire were never found.
Among my visitors this first day at Bagamoyo was
Ali bin Salira, a brother of the famous Sayd bin Salira,
formerly Ras Kafilah to Burton and Speke, and subse-
quently to Speke and Grant. His salaams were very pro-
fuse, and moreover, his brother was to be my agent in
Unyamwezi, so that I did not hesitate to accept his offer
of assistance. But, alas, for my white face and too
trustful nature ! This Ali bin Salim turned out to be a
snake in the grass, a very sore thorn in my side. T
was invited to his comfortable house to partake of colfee.
I went there : the coffee was good though sugarless, his
promises were many, but they proved valueless. Said
he to me, '* I am your friend ; I wish to serve you ;
what can I do for you r" — Replied I, " I am obliged
to you, I need a good friend who, knowing the language
and customs of the Wanyamwezi, am procure me the
4G
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
pagazis I need and send me off quickly. Your brother
is acquainted with the Wasungu (white men), and knows
that what they promise they make good. Get me a hun-
dred and forty pagazis and I will pay you your price."
With unctuous courtesy, the reptile I was now warmly
nourishing, said, " I do not want anything from you, my
friend, for such a slight service, rest content and quiet ;
you shall not stop here fifteen days. To-morrow morn-
ing I will come and overhaul your bales to see what is
needed." I bade him good morning, elated with the happy
thought that I was soon to tread the Unyanyembe road.
The reader must be made acquainted with two good
and sufficient reasons why I was to devote all my
energy to lead the Expedition as quickly as possible
from Bagamoyo. First, I wished to reach tJjiji be-
fore the news reached Livingstone that I was in
search of him, for my impression of him was that
he was a man who would try to put as much dis-
tance as possible between us, rather than make an
effort to shorten it, and I should have my long journey
for nothing. Second, the Masika, or rainy season,
would soon be on me, which, if it caught me at Baga-
moyo, would prevent my departure until it was over,
which meant a delay of forty days, and exaggerated as
the rains were by all men with whom I came in contact,
it rained every day for forty days without intermission.
This I knew was a thing to dread ; for I had my
memory stored with all kinds of rainy unpleasantnesses.
For instance, there was the rain of Virginia and its
concomitant horrors — wetness, mildew, agues, rheuma-
tics, and such like ; then there were the English rains,
a miserable drizzle causing the blue devils ; then the
rainy season of Abyssinia with the flood-gates of the
firmament opened, and an universal down-pour of rain,
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
47
enough to submerge half a continent in a few hours ;
lastly, there was the pelting monsoon of India, a steady
shut-in-house kind of rain. To which of these rains
should I compare this dreadful Masika of East Africa ?
Did not Burton write much about black mud in
Uzaramo ? Well, a country whose surface soil is
called black mud in fine weather, what can it be called
when forty days' rain beat on it, and feet of ^^ftgazis and
donkeys make paste of it ? These were natural reflec-
tions, induced by the circumstances of the hour, and I
found myself much exercised in mind in consequence.
Ali bin Salim, true to his promise, visited my camp
on the morrow, with a very important air, and after
looking at the pile of cloth bales, informed me that I
must have them covered with mat-bags (makandas).
He said he would send a man to have them measured,
but he enjoined me not to make any bargain for the
bags, as he would make it all right.
While awaiting with commendable patience the 140
pagazis promised by Ali bin Salim we were all employed
upon everything that thought could suggest needful for
crossing the sickly maritime region, so that we might
make the transit before the terrible fever could unnerve
us, and make us joyless. A short experience at Baga-
moyo showed us what we lacked, what was superfluous,
and what was necessary. We were visited one night
by a squall, accompanied by furious rain. I had $1,500
worth of pagazi cloth in my tent. In the morning I
looked, and lo ! the drilling had let in rain like a sieve,
and every yard of cloth was wet. It occupied two
days afterwards to dry the cloth.s, and fold them again.
The drill-tent was condemned, and a No. 5 hemp-canvas
tent at once prepared. After which I felt convinced
that my cloth bales, and one year's ammunition, were
48
FOW I FOVND LIVINGSTONE.
safe, and that I could defy the Masika. In the hurry of
departure from Zanzibar, and in my ignorance of how
bales should be made, I had submitted to the better judg-
ment and ripe experience of one Jetta, a commission
merchant, to prepare my bales for carriage. Jetta did
not weigh the bales as he made them up, but piled the
Merikani, Kaniki, Barsati, Jamdani, Joho, Ismahili, in
alternate layers, and roped the san^e into bales. One or
two pngazis came to my camp and began to chaffer ; they
wished to see the bales first, before they would make a
final bargain. They tried to raise them up — ugh !
ugh ! it was of no use, and withdrew. A fine Salter's
spring balance was hung up, and a bale suspended to
the hook ; the finger indicated 1 05 lbs. or 3 frasilah,
which was just 35 lbs. or one frasilah overweight.
Upon putting all the bales to this test, I perceived that
Jetta's guess-work, with all his experience, had caused
considerable trouble to me. The soldiers were set to
work to reopen and repack, which latter task is per-
formed in the following manner : — ^We cut a doti, or
four yards of Merikani, ordinarily sold at Zanzibar for
$2' 7 5 the piece of thirty yards, and spread it out.
We take a piece or bolt of good Merikani, and instead
of the double fold given it by the Nashua and Salem
mills, we fold it into three parts, by which the folds have
a breadth of a foot ; this piece forms the first layer, and
will weigh nine pounds ; the second layer consists of six
pieces of Kaniki, a blue stuff similar to the blue blouse
stuff of France, and the blue jeans of America, though
much lighter ; the third layer is formed of the second ,
piece of Merikani, the fourth of six more pieces of
Kaniki, the fifth of Merikani, the sixth of Kaniki as
before, and the seventh and last of Merikani. We
have thus four pieces of Merikani, which weigh
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOTO.
49
36 lbs., and 18 pieces of Kaniki weighing also 36 lbs.,
making a total of 72 lbs., or a little more than two
frasilahs; the cloth is then folded singly over these
layers, each corner tied to another. A bundle of coir-
rope is then brought, and two men, provided with a
wooden mallet for beating and pressing the bale,
proceed to tie it up with as much nicety as sailors
serve down rigging.
When complete a bale is a solid mass three feet and a
half long, a foot deep, and a foot wide. Of these bales
I bad to convey eighty-two to Unyanyembe, forty of
which consisted solely of the Merikani and Kaniki. The
other forty-two contained the Merikani and colored
cloths, which latter were to serve as honga or tribute
cloths, and to engage another set of pagazis from Un-
yanyembe to Ujiji, and from Ujiji to the regions beyond.
The fifteenth day asked of me by Ali bin Salim for
the procuring of the pagazis passed by, and there was
not the ghost of a pagazi in my camp. I sent Mabruki
the Bull-headed — one of Burton's men — to Ali bin
Salim, to convey my salaams and express a hope that
he had kept his word. In half an hour's time Mabruki
returned w ith the reply of the Arab, that in a few days
he would be able to collect them all ; but, added
Mabruki, slyly, " Bana, I don't believe him. He said
aloud to himself, in my hearing, ' Why should I get the
Musungu pagazis ? Sycd Burghash did not send a letter
to me, but to the Jemadar. Why should I trouble myself
about him ? Let Syed Burghash write me a letter to that
purpose, and I will procure tliem within two days.' "
To my mind this was a time for action: Ah' bin
Salim sliould see that it was ill trifling with a white
man in earnest to start. I rode down to his house to
ask him what he meant.
50
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
His reply was, Mabruki had told a lie as black as his
face. He had never said anything approaching to such
a thing. He was willing to become my slave — to be-
come a pagazi himself. But here I stopped the voluble
Ali, and informed him that I could not think of em-
ploying him in the capacity of a pagazi, neither could
I find it in my heart to trouble Syed Burghash to write
a direct letter to him, or to require of a man who had
deceived me once, as Ali bin Salim had, any service of
any nature whatsoever. It would be better, therefore,
if Ali bin Salim would stay away from my camp, and
not enter it either in person or by proxy.
I had lost fifteen days, for Jemadar Sadur, at Kaole,
had never stirred from his fortified house in that village
in my service, save to pay a visit, after the receipt of
the Sultan's letter. Naranji, custom-house agent at
Kaole, solely under the thumb of the great Ludha
Damji, had not responded to Ludha's worded request
that he would procure pagazis, except with winks,
nods, and promises, and it is but just stated how I
fared at the hands of Ali bin Salim. In this extremity
I remembered the promise made to me by the great
merchant of Zanzibar — Tarya Topan — a Mohammedan
Hindi — that he would furnish me with a letter to a
young man named Soor Hadji Palloo, who was said to
be the best man in Bagamoyo to procure a supply of
pagazis.
I despatched Selim, my Arab interpreter, by a dhow
to Zanzibar, with a very earnest request to Capt. Webb
that he would procure from Tarya Topan the intro-
ductory letter so long delayed. It was the last card
in my hand.
On the third day the boy Selim returned, bringing
with him not only the letter to Soor Hadji Palloo, but
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
51
aij abundance of good things from the ever-hospitable
house of Mr. Webb. In a very short time after the
receipt of his letter, the eminent young man Soor Hadji
Palloo came to visit me, and informed me he had been
requested by Tarya Topan to hire for me one hundred
and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe in the shortest time
possible. This he said would be very expensive, for
there were scores of Arabs and "Wasawahili merchants
on the look-out for every caravan tliat came in from
the interior, and they paid 20 doti, or 80 yards of
cloth, to each pagazi. Not willing or able to pay more,
many of these merchants had been waiting as long as
six months before they could get tlieir quota. " If 3 0U,"
continued he, " desire to depart quickly, you must pay
from 25 to 40 doti, and I can send you off before one
month is ended." In reply, I said, " Here are my cloths
for pagazis to the amount of $1,750, or 8,500 doti, suffi-
cient to give one hundred and forty men 25 doti each.
The most I am willing to pay is 25 doti : send one
hundred and forty pagazis to Unyanyembe with my
cloth and wire, and I will make your heart glad with
the richest present you have ever received." "With a
refreshing naivete, the " 3'oung man " said he did not
want any present, he would get me my quota of
pagazis, and then I could tell the " Wasungu " what
a good " young man " he was, and consequently the
benefit he would receive, would be an increase of" busi-
ness. He closed his reply with the astounding remark
that he had ten pagazis at his house already, and if
I would be good enough to have four bales of cloth,
two bags of beads, and twenty coils of wire carried to
his liouse, the pagazis could leave Bagamoyo llie next
day, under charge of three soldiers. "For," he re-
marked, " it is much better and cheaper to send many
E 2
52
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
small caravans than one large one. Large caravans
invite attack, or are delayed by avaricious chiefs upon
the most trivial pretexts, wliile small ones pass by with-
out notice."
The bales and beads were duly carried to Soor
Hadji Palloo's house, and the day passed with me
in mentally congratulating myself upon my good for-
tune, in complimenting the young Hindi's talents for
business, the greatness and influence of Tarya Topan,
and the goodness of Mr. Webb in thus hastening my
departure from Bagamoyo. I mentally vowed a hand-
some present, and a great puff in my book, to Soor
Hadji Palloo, and it was with a glad heart I prepared
these soldiers for their march to Unyanyembe.
The task of preparing the first caravan* for the
Unyanyembe road informed me upon several things
that have escaped the notice of my predecessors in
East Africa, a timely knowledge of which would have
been of infinite service to me at Zanzibar, in the purchase
and selection of sufficient and proper cloth. I append
here, as an example, the bill of costs for the sending of
a caravan of ten pagazis, and three soldiers as guards,
to Unyanyembe.
Cost of Carriage.
To 10 pagazis' hire, at 25 doti, each doti of cloth
being 50c g 125 -00
Matama grain for 4 days* food 1 • 00
For Food on the Road.
Merikani, 25 doti 12-50
Kauiki, 20 doti 25"" each ........ 5-00
Taujiri, 2 doti 60'='" each 1-00
6ami-Sanu, 9 lbs 3 "05
Bubu, 3 1bs -33
Merikani, 7 lbs 1-05
KU8-93
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOJO.
68
Food for Tliree Soldiere.
3 lbs. Bubu beads g -33
3 lbs. Mcrikani '45
3 lbs. Sami-Sami I'Olf
Merikani clotbs, 7^ doti 3-75
Barsati, 2 doti 1 • 00
Kaniki, 2 (loti '50
Wages for 3 months, at S 9 per month . . . . 27-00
To money to pay for ferry-boat crossing the Kingani 2*00
g36 04f
Total cost of pagazia g 148 • 93
„ soldiers 36 -041
^184 -971
Value of Goods earned by a portion of the First Caravan.
3 bales of cloth containing —
90 doti of Kaniki, at 25c g 22-50
112^ doti of Mcrikani, at 50c 56-25
3 loads of wire, or 4 frasilahs 36*87^
1 bag of Sungomazzi, or 1000 14-00
1 bag of Sami-Sami beads, or 2 frasilahs . . . 26-00
gl55-62i
Thus the cost of carriage was a httle over $29 in
excess of the value of the goods carried.
Supposing I despatched one hundred pagazis, the cost
of carriage for ten times the quantity of goods con-
veyed as estimated above would amount to $1849-761,
while the cost of the goods themselves would reach the
sum of $1556-25, and together would make $3406-01f.
And while I am about this system of transporta-
tion, being a methodical man, I might as well annex
the hill of costs of a portion of the third caravan, led
by my white man Farquhar, which consisted of ten
donkeys, three soldiers, one white man, and one cook,
54
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
SO that the reader may compare the expenses, for he
must remember I include everything in the bill.
Cost of Carriage.
To 9 donkeys bearing goods, at g 18 . . . g 162-00
To 1 donkey for white man 18 '00
To 10 saddles 17-60
1 saddle, thus :
Canvas 33^
Twine 5
Cotton 25
Iron rings 10
American di-ill 15
Cotton band 12 J
Rope 20
1-21
3 months' wages to cook at g 9 27-00
8 ' „ white man at g 25 . . . . 75-00
1 tent 8-00
Sugar, 4 lbs 25
Tea 4-00
Medicine 3-00
Eice 1-00
To 3 soldiers' wages at g 9 each. . . . . . 27-00
Ferry money 2-00
Matama grain, 16 measures . , 1-00
To food on the road for donkeys, 16 doti Merikani . 8-00
To food for 5 men, 25 doti 12-50
„ „ 15 lbs. of beads 3-00
Value of Goods convened.
To 18 bales of cloth containing —
540 doti Kaniki at 25c
675 doti Merikani at 50c
The cost of carriage in this case is much less, and
what is in favor of the donkey as a beast of burden, is,
that it carries much more than two pagazis will, upon
occasion. Two pagazis with all the necessaries cost
g 363 -83
g 135 -00
337-50
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOTO.
55
about $3 7' 01, one donkey costs upon the same terms
say about $36-40. These are only according to the
sums above quoted. But Farquhar could have led into
Unyanyembe, twenty donkeys as easily as ten ; the cost
of carriage would then be greatly in favor of the donkeys.
If we take into consideration that Burton's thirty-three
donkeys all died before they reached Unyanyembe, we
must also remember that he states that all his pagazis
deserted or tried to desert on the march. But we shall
be better able to judge of the relative value of donkeys
and pagazis after I have arrived at Unyanyembe ; until
then we will leave the question open.
The setting-out of the first caravan enlightened me
also upon the subject of honga, or tribute. Tribute
had to be packed by itself, all of choice cloth ; for the
chiefs, besides being avaricious, are also very fastidious.
They will not accept the flimsy colored cloth of the
pagazi, but a royal and exceedingly high-priced dab-
wani, Ismahili, Rehani, or a Sohari, or dotis of crimson
broad cloth. The tribute for the first caravan cost $25.
Having more than one hundred and forty pagazis to
despatch, this tribute money would amount finally to
$330 in gold, with a premium of 25c. on each dollar.
Ponder on this, 0 traveller ! I lay bare these facts for
your special instruction.
But before my first caravan was destined to ])art
company with me, Soor Hadji Palloo — worthy young
man — and I, were to come to a definite understanding
about money matters. The morning appointed tor de-
jsarture Soor Hadji Palloo came to my hut and pie-
sented )iis bill, with all the gravity of innoeenci", for
supplying the pagazis with twenty-five doti each as
theiv liirc to Unyanyembe, begging immediate payment
in money.. Words fail to express the astonishment I
56
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
naturally felt, that this sharp-looking young man should
so soon have forgotten the verbal contract entered into
between him and myself the morning previous, which
was to the effect that out of the three thousand doti
stored in my tent, and bought expressly for pagazi
hire, each and every man hired for me as carriers from
Bagamo-yo to Unyanyembe, should be paid out of the
store there in my tent. When I asked if he remem-
bered the contract, he replied in the affirmative : his
reasons for breaking it so soon were, that he wished to
sell his cloths, not mine, and for liis cloths he should
want money, not an exchange. But I gave him to
comprehend that as he was procuring pagazis for me,
he was to pay my pagazis with my cloths ; that all the
money I expected to pay him, should be just such a sum
as I thought adequate for his trouble as my agent, and
that only on those terms should he act for me in this or
any other matter, and that the " Musimgu " was not
accustomed to eat his words.
The preceding paragraph embodies many more words
than are contained in it. It embodies a dialogue of an
hour, an angry altercation of half-an-hour's duration, a
vow taken on the part of Soor Hadji Palloo, that if I
did not take his cloths he should not touch my busi-
ness, many tears, entreaties, woeful penitence, and
much else, all of which were responded to with, " Do as
I want you to do, or do nothing." Finally came relief,
and a happy ending. Soor Hadji Palloo went away
Avith a bright face, taking with him the three soldiers'
posho (food), and honga (tribute) for the caravan.
Well for me that it ended so, and that subsequent
quarrels of a similar nature terminated so peaceably,
otherwise I doubt whether my departure from Bagamoyo
would have happened so early as it did. While I am
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOTO.
57
on this theme, and as it really engrossed every moment
of my time at Bagamoyo, I may as well he more ex-
plicit regarding Soor Hadji Palloo and his connection
with my business.
Soor Hadji Palloo was a smart young man of
business, energetic, quick at mental calculation, and
seemed to be born for a successful salesman. His ej'es
were never idle, they wandered over every part of my
person, over the tent, the bed, the guns, the clothes,
and ha\ang swung clear round, began the silent circle
over again. His fingers were never at rest, they had a
fidgety, nervous action at their tips, constantly in the
act of feeling something ; while in the act of talking to
me, he would lean over and feel the texture of the
cloth of my trousers, my coat, or my shoes or socks ;
then he would feel his own light jamdani shirt or dab-
wain loin-cloth, until his eyes casually resting upon a
novelty, his body would lean forward, and his arm was
stretched out with the willing fingers. His jaws also
■were in perpetual motion, caused by vile habits he had
acquired of chewing betel-nut and lime, and sometimes
tobacco and lime. They gave out a sound similar to that
of a young shoat, in the act of sucking. He was a
pious Mohammedan, and observed the external cour-
tesies and ceremonies of the true believers. He would
aftably greet me, take off his shoes, enter my tent
protesting he was not fit to sit in my presence, and
after being seated, would begin his ever-crooked errand.
Of honesty, literal and practical honesty, this youth
knew nothing ; to the pure truth he was an utter
stranger; the falsehoods he had uttered during his
short life seemed already to have quenched the bold
gaze of innocence from his eyes, to have banished the
color of truthfulness from his features, to have trans-
58
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
formed him — yet a stripling of twenty — into a most ac-
complished rascal, and conaummate expert in dishonesty.
During the six weeks I encamped at Bagamoyo,
waiting for my quota of men, this lad of twenty gave
me as much trouble as all the scoundrelism of New
York gives to her Chief of Police. He was found out
half a dozen times a day in dishonesty, yet was in
no way abashed by it. He would send in his account
of the cloths supplied to the pagazis, stating them to be
25 paid to each ; on sending a man to inquire I would
find the greatest number to have been 20, and the
smallest 12. Soor Hadji Palloo described the cloths to
be of first-class quality, Ulyah cloths, worth in the
market four times more than the ordinary quality given
to the pagazis, yet a personal examination would prove
them to be the flimsiest goods sold, such as American
sheeting 2| feet broad, and worth $2*75 per 30 yards a
piece at Zanzibar, or the most inferior Kaniki which is
generally sold at $9 per score. He would personally
come to my camp and demand 40 lbs. of Sami-Sami,
Merikani, and Bubu beads for posho, or caravan rations ;
an inspection of their store before departure from their
first camp from Bagamoyo would show a deficiency
ranging from 5 to 30 lbs. Moreover, he cheated in
cash-money, such as demanding $4 for crossing the
Kingani Ferry for every ten pagazis, when the fare was
$2 for the same number ; and an unconscionable amount
of pice (copper coins equal in value to j of a cent) was
required for posho. It was every day for four weeks
that this system of roguery was carried out. Each day
conceived a dozen new schemes ; every instant of his
time he seemed to be devising how to plunder, until I
was fairly at my wits' end how to thwart him. Ex-
posure before a crowd of his fellows brought no blush of
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOTO.
69
shame to his sallow cheeks ; he would listen with a
mere shrug of the shoulders and that was. all, which I
might interpret any way it pleased me. A threat to
reduce his present had no effect ; a bird in the hand was
certainly worth two in the busli for him, so ten dollars'
worth of goods stolen and in his actual possession was
of more intrinsic value, than the promise of $20 in a few
days, though it was that of a Musungu's.
Readers will of course ask themselves why I did not,
after the first discovery of these shameless proceedings,
close my business with him, to which I make reply, that
I could not do without him unless his equal were forth-
coming, that I never felt so thoroughly dependent on
any one man as I did upon him ; without his or his
duplicate's aid, I must have stayed at Bagaraoyo at least
six months, at the end of which time the Expedition
would have become valueless, the rumour of it havinsr
been blown abroad to the four winds. It was imme-
diate departure that was essential to my success — depar-
ture from Bagamoyo — after which it might be possible
for me to control my own future in a great measure.
These troubles were the greatest that I could at this
time imagine. I have already stated that I had $1,750
worth of pagazis' clothes, or 3,500 doti, stored in my
tent, and above what my bales contained. Calculating
one hundred and forty pagazis at 25 doti each, I sup-
posed 1 had enough, yet, though I had been trying to
teach the young Hindi that the Musungu was nwt a
fool, nor blind to his pilfering tricks, tliough the 3,500
doti were all spent ; though I had only obtained one
hundred and thirty pagazis at 25 doti each, which in
the aggregate amounted to 3,200 doti : Soor Iladji
Palloo's bill was $1,400 cash extra. His plea was that
.he had furnished Ulyah clothes for Muhongo 240 doti,
60
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
equal in value to 960 of my doti, that the money was
spent in ferry pice, in presents to chiefs of caravans of
tents, guns, red broad cloth, in presents to people on
the Mrima (coast) to induce them to hunt up pagazis.
Upon this exhibition of most ruthless cheating I waxed
indignant, and declared to him that if he did not
run over his bill and correct it, he should go without
a pice.
But before the bill could be put into proper shape,
my words, threats, and promises falling heedlessly on a
stony brain, a man, Kanjee by name, from the store of
Tarya Topan, of Zanzibar, had to come over, when the
bill was finally reduced to $738. Without any dis-
respect to Tarya Topan, I am unable to decide which is
the most accomplished rascal, Kanjee, or young Soor
Hadji Palloo ; in the words of a white man who knows
them both, " there is not the splitting of a straw be-
tween them." Kanjee is deep and sly, Soor Hadji
Palloo is bold and incorrigible. But peace be to them
both, may their shaven heads never be covered with
the troublous crown I wore at Bagamoyo !
My dear friendly reader, do not think, if I speak out
my mind in this or in any other chapter upon matters
seemingly trivial and unimportant, that seeming such
they should be left unmentioned. Every tittle related
is a fact, and to know facts is to receive knowledge.
How could I ever recite my experience to you if I did
not enter upon these miserable details, which sorely
distract the stranger upon his first arrival ? Had I
l)een a Government official, I had but wagged my finger
and my quota of pagazis had been furnished me within
a week, but as an individual arriving without the
graces of official recognition, armed with no Govern-
ment influence, I had to be patient, bide my time,
»
Feb. 1871.] LIFE AT BAQAMOYO. 61
and chew the cud of irritation quietly, but the bread I
ate was not all sour, as this was.
The white men, Farquhar and Shaw, were kept
steadily at work upon water-proof tents of hemp canvas,
for I perceived, by the premonitory showers of rain that
marked the approach of the Masika that an ordinary
tent of light cloth would subject myself to damp and my
goods to mildew, and while there was time to rectify
all errors that had crept into my plans through igno-
rance or overhaste, I thought it was not wise to
permit things to rectify themselves. Now that I have
returned uninjured in health, though I have suffered the
attacks of twenty-three fevers within the short space of
thirteen months, I must confess I owe my life, first, to
the mercy of God ; secondly, to the enthusiasm for my
work, which animated me from the beginning to the
end ; thirdly, to having never ruined ray constitution by
indulgence in vice and intemperance ; fourthly, to the
energy of my nature ; fifthly, to a native hopefulness
which never died ; and, sixthly, to having furnished
myself with a capacious water and damp proof canvas
house. And here, if my experience may be of value,
I would suggest that travellers, instead of submitting
their better judgment to the caprices of a tent-maker,
who will endeavour to pass off a handsomely made
fabric of his own, which is unsnited to all climes, to
use his own judgment, and get the best and strongest
that money will buy. In the end it will prove the
cheapest, and perhaps be the means of saving his life.
On one point I failed, and lest new and young
travellers fall into the same error which marred much
of my enjoyment, this paragraph is written. One
must be extremely careful in his choice of weapons,
whether for sport or defence. A traveller should have
62
EOWI FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
at least three different kinds of guns. One should be
a fowling-piece, the second should be a double-barrelled
rifle, No. 10 or 12, the third should be a magazine-
rifle, for defence. For the fowling-piece I would
suggest No. 12 bore, with barrels at least four feet in
length. For the rifle for larger game, I would point
out, with due deference to old sportsmen, of course,
that the best guns for African game are the English
Lancaster and O'Reilly rifles ; and for a fighting
weapon, I maintain that the best yet invented is the
American Winchester repeating rifle, or the " sixteen-
shooter " as it is called, supplied with the London
Eley's ammunition. If I suggest as a fighting weapon
the American Winchester, I do not mean that the
traveller need take it for the purpose of offence, but as
the best means of efficient defence, to save his own life
against African banditti, when attacked, a thing likely
to happen any time.
I met a young man soon after returning from the
interior, who declared his conviction that the " Express "
rifle was the most perfect weapon ever invented to
destroy African game. Yery possibly the young man
may be right, and that the " Express rifle " is all he
declares it to be, but he had never practised with it
against African game, and as I had never tried it, I
could not combat his assertion : but I could relate my
experiences with weapons, having all the penetrating
powers of the " Express," and could inform him that
though the bullets penetrated through the animals, they
almost always failed to bring down the game at the
first fire. On the other hand, I could inform him, that
during the time I travelled with Dr. Livingstone the
Doctor lent me his heavy " O'Reilly " rifle with which
I seldom failed to bi ing an animal or two home to the
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
63
camp, and that I found the Fraser shell answer all
purposes tor which it was intended. The feats related
by Capt. Speke and Sir Samuel Baker are no longer
matter of wonderment to the young sportsman, when
he has a Lancaster or an O'Reilly in his hand.
After a very few trials he can imitate them, if not excel
their deeds, provided he has a steady hand. And it
is to forward tliis end that this paragraph is written.
African game require " bone-crushers ;" for any ordinary
carbine possesses sufficient penetrative qualities, yet
has not the disabling qualities which a gun must pos-
sess, to be useful in the hands of an African explorer.
I had not been long at Bagamoyo before I went
over to Mussoudi's camp, to visit the " Livingstone
caravan " .which the British Consul liad despatched
on the first day of November, 1870, to the relief of
Livingstone. The number of packages was thirty-five,
which required as many men to convey them to Un-
yanyembe. The men chosen to escort this caravan
were composed of Johannese and Waliiyow, seven in
number. Out of the seven, four were slaves. They
lived in clover here — thoughtless of the errand they
had been sent upon, and careless of the consequences.
What these men were doing at Bagamoyo all this time I
never could conceive, except indulging their own vicious
propensities. It would be nonsense to say there were
no pagazis ; because I know there were at least fifteen
caravans which had started for the interior since the
Ramadan (December L5th, LS70). Yet Livingstone's
caravan had arrived at this little town of Bagamoyo
November 2nd, and here it had been lying until the
10th February, in all, 100 days, for lack of the Hmited
number of thirty-five pagazis, a number that might be
procured within two days through consular influence.
64
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE,
If the British Consul puts forward a plea that he was
not aware that his supph'es to Livingstone were still
halted at Bagamoyo, it will only prove to me that he
was more culpably negligent than ever of his duty to a
British subject and a brother official,' who was left
completely dependent on him for even the means to
live. For it was at Zanzibar on the first evening of
my arrival that I was first informed that there was a
caravan at Bagamoyo about to start for the interior
with supplies for Dr. Livingstone ; I then did not
know whether it was an easy or a difficult thing to
despatch a caravan into the interior. My surprise may
be better imagined than described, when I discovered
that this caravan, requiring only thirty-five men, de-
spatched by the British Consul, had left Zanzibar on
about the 1st or 2nd of November, 1870, and was still
encamjied at Bagamoyo on the 10th February, 1871, a
period of oxe hundred days ! " Why," I asked myself,
" if a small body of thirty-five men cannot be collected
within one hundred days by a British Consul, how many
days must elapse before a mere private individual like
myself can collect one hundred and forty men ?"
On or about the 10th of February, a rumour was
spread throughout the bazaars at Bagamoyo, which
reached my camp, that the " Balyuz " — technically
interpreted ''ambassador" — was coming to visit Baga-
moyo, for the purpose of despatching Livingstone's
caravan. That same evening or the next -morning
Livingstone's caravan in a fright started for the in-
terior with but four of the escort.
Two days afterwards H.M.S. Columbine, Capt.
Tucker, appeared off Bagamoyo, witli Dr. Kirk, the
•acting British Consul and political resident, on board.
The evening of the Columbine's arrival off our African
FuB. 1871.]
LIFE AT BAGAMOYO.
f55
port, I rode up to the French mission, whither Dr. Kirk,
Capt. Tucker, and his executive officer, accompanied by
M. de Yienne, the French Consul, had gone, according to
a hospitable invitation from Pere Horner, superior of
the Mission. I found them at dinner and was invited
to take wine with them. The conversation turned
Dartly upon the anticipated pleasures of a hunt which
they were organizing.
At 6 A.M. the next morning Dr. Kirk, Capt
Tucker, his executive officer, Consul de Yienne, - and
P^re Horner started for the Kingani River ; later in
the day I also proceeded to the Kingani with Farquhar,
Shaw, and Sayd bin Sayf, to shoot hippopotami.
As we were returning to camp, in the plain of the
Kingani, we met Pere Horner, coming, so he said,
from Kikoka, the first camp on the Unyanyembe road
from Bagamoyo, whither he had gone to accompany
the sportsmen.
On the following Friday evening the English Con-
sul's party returned from the hunt. I dined with
them that evening, and the subject of conversation was
mainly upon their experiences in the woods beyond the
Kingani. I was informed by Dr. Kirk that the officers
of the " Columbine," with their pea-rifles, had not been
able to shoot a thing. The only animals killed l^ad
been f?hot by himself; and, to get any sport at all, he
had been obliged to proceed alone into the forest.
"They know now" (referring to the officers), said
Dr. Kirk, " what reliance is to be placed on Snidurs
when levelled against African game."
At 9 A.M. the next morning Dr. Kirk and a French
padre paid me a visit at my camp. The former could
only be prevailed upon to take a cup of tea, as he was
going, he said, to see about Livingstone's caravan.
p
C6
ffOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
About 11 A.M. I heard that Dr. Kirk had gone on board
the " Columbine," and that the children of the French
Mission had also gone with a full brass-band of musicians
to entertain the sailors. Between 3 and 4 p.m. the
" Columbine " departed for Zanzibar.
Bagamoyo has a most enjoyable climate. It is far
preferable in every sense to that of Zanzibar. We
were able to sleep in the open air, and rose refreshed
and healthy each morning, to enjoy our matutinal bath
in the sea : and bvthe time the sun had risen we were
engaged in multitudinous preparations for our departure
for the interior. Our days were enlivened by visits
from the Arabs who were also bound for Unyanyembe ;
by comical scenes in the camp, sometimes by court-
martials held on the refractory, by a boxing-match
between Farquhar and Shaw, necessitating my prudent
interference when they waxed too wroth ; by a hunt-
ing excursion now and then to the Kingani plain and
river ; by social conversation with the old Jemadar and
his band of Baluches, who were never tired of warning
me that the Masika was at hand, and of advising me
that my best course was to hurry on before the season
for travelling expired.
John Shaw would get sadly out of temper when
these visits were paid by the swart magnates of Baga-
moyo. Upon these occasions my first duty, following
the custom of the Arabs, was to offer refreshments and
coffee to my visitors, and to serve them first, before
passing the tray to the white men.
I observed that Shaw seemed very indignant, and upon
inquiring the cause, I was informed that I had given
him great offence by having the Arabs — " niggers " as
he was pleased to terra them — served before he —
white man — was. Poor Shaw ! ignorant as a babe of the
Feb. 1871.]
LIFE AT B40AM0T0.
67
calamities in store for him in that country to which his
thoughts were now directed, what would he not have
given to know that this supposed slight on his colour was
the least trouble to be borne on this venturesome Expedi-
tion ! He fully showed the uneducated Anglo-Saxon's
inaptitude for travel and intercourse with other races.
As the days passed by I found it was necessary to
separate Farquhar from Shaw. The latter proved to be
a character without a grain of humor, but with a fund
of vanity that was easily alarmed, and a fond ambition
which soared into the empyrean with him, carrying
him often beyond all bounds of human conception.
Farquhar by himself I thought would be much better
off than with Shaw, who had certainly a most irri-
tating manner to a man of Farquhar's temper and
intelligence. I therefore chose him to lead the third
caravan into the interior," and upon this announcement
of my intentions peace was immediately restored between
the contumacious belligerents.
Among the employe's with the Expedition were two
Hindi and two Goanese. They had conceived the idea
that the African interior was an El Dorado, the ground
of which was strewn over with ivory tusks, and they
had clubbed together, while their imaginations were
thus heated, to embark in a little enterprise of their
own. Their names were Jako, Abdul Kadcr, Bunder
Salaam, and Aranselar ; Jako engaged in my service as
carpenter and general help; Abdul Kader as a tailor.
Bunder Salaam as cook, and Aranselar as chief butler.
But Aranselar, with an intuitive eye, foresaw that I
was likely to prove a vigorous employer, and wliile
there was yet time he devoted most of it to conceive
how it were possible to withdraw from the engagement.
He received permission upon asking for it to go to
Zanzibar to visit his friends. Two days afterwards I
P 2
68
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
was informed he had blown his right eye out, and
received a medical confirmation of the fact, and note of
the extent of the injury, from Dr. Christie, the physician
to His Highness Syed Burghash. His compatriots I
imagined were about planning the same thing, but a
peremptory command to abstain from such folly, issued
after they had received their advance-pay, sufficed to
check any sinister designs they may have formed.
A groom was caught stealing from the bales, one
night, and the chase after him into the country until
he vanished out of sight into the jungle, was one of the
most agreeable diversions which occurred to wear away
the interval employed in preparing for the march.
I had now despatched four caravans into the interior,
and the fifth, wliich was to carry the l^ats and boxes,
personal luggage, and_ a few cloth and bead loads, was
ready to be led by myself. The following is the order
of departure of the caravans.
1871. Feb. 6. — Expedition arrived at Bagamoyo.
1871. Feb. 18. — First caravan departs with twenty-
four pagazis and three soldiers.
1871. Feb. 21. — Second caravan departs with twenty-
eight pagazis, two chiefs, and two soldiers.
1871. Feb. 25. — Third caravan departs with twenty-
two pagazis, ten donkeys, one white man, one cook, and
three soldiers.
1871. March 11. — Fourth caravan departs with fifty-
five pagazis, two chiefs, and three soldiers.
1871. March 21, — Fifth caravan departs with
twenty-eight pagazis, twelve soldiers, two white men,
one tailor, one cook, one interpi'eter, one gun-bearer,
seventeen asses, two horses, and one dog.
Total number, inclusive of all souls, comprised in
caravans connected with the " New York Herald
Expedition," 192.
rORTRAIT OF BOMBAY AND MABRUKI.
CHAPTER ly;
THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE TO USEGUHHA.
From Bagamoyo to —
h.
m.
Shamba Genera .
. 1
30
Kikoka
. 3
40
Kosako
. 6
0
Kingaru .
6
0
Imbiki ....
4
30
Msuwa . . . .
4
30
From Msuwa to — h.
Kiseme .... 4
Mussoudi .... 4
Mikeseh .... 7
Muhallch .... 6
Sinibamwcnni ... 3
m.
30
20
0
45
0
Before I proceed with this chapter a Lrief space must
be given to an apolog^y wliich I tender to my readers.
Euo iH first and foremost in this book. I am oblig^ed to
exhibit him as he actually was, not as he sliould be ; as
he behaved, not as he sliould have behaved ; as he
travelled, not as he ouprht to have travelled. I must,
for conscience' sake, report all things literally as thov
occurred, and to the -best of my ability record the
70
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTON^;.
incidents and accidents whicli befell the Expedition.,
However stay-at-home, chimney-corner, and easy-chair
loving people may regard the merits of this book, the
greatest praise and the greatest thanks will be bestowed
on it by travellers who may succeed me in East Africa ;
for they will at once perceive the useful lessons taught
them by my haps and mishaps.
On the 21st of March, exactly seventy-three days
after my arrival at Zanzibar, the fifth caravan, led by
myself, left the town of Bagamoyo for our first journey
westward, with " Forward !" for its mot du guet. As
the kirangozi unrolled the American flag, and put him-
self at the head of the caravan, and the pagazis, animals,
soldiers, and idlers were lined for the march, we bade a
long farewell to the dolce far niente of civilised life, to
the blue ocean, and to its open road to home, to the
hundreds of dusky spectators who were there to cele-
brate our departure with repeated salvoes of musketry.
Our caravan is composed of twenty-eight pagazis, in-
cluding the kirangozi, or guide ; twelve soldiers under
Capt. Mbarak Bombay, in charge of seventeen donkeys
and their loads ; Selim, my boy interpreter, in charge
of the donkey and cart and its load ; one cook and sub,
who is also to be tailor and ready hand for all, and
leads the grey horse ; Shaw, once mate of a ship, now
transformed into rearguard and overseer for the caravan,
who is mounted on a good riding-donkey, and wearing
a canoe-like topee and sea-boots ; and lastly, on a
splendid bay horse (presented to me by Mr. Goodhue,
an American gentleman, long resident at Zanzibar),
myself, called " Bana Mkuba," the " big master," by my
* people — the vanguard, the reporter, the thinker, and
• leader of the Expedition.
The several members composing the caravan are well
March, 1871.] TJIHOUGE UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEGUEHA. 71
known to me already. They have been the subjects of
study and selection, and no fauk has been found with
them yet ; still, as it is rather premature to describe
their characters, I shall confine myself at this time to
simply naming the principal personages in the order and
rank they hold :
1. John W. Shaw, rearguard and overseer.
2. Mbarak Bombay, captain of soldiers.
3. Uledi (Speke's valet), sergeant.
4. Mabruki (Burton's valet), tentguard.
5. Mabruki the Little . . . soldier.
6. Mabruk Saleem
7. Zaidi ...
8. Kamna ...
9. Sarmian ...
10. Ferajji (a runaway of Speke's)
11. Kingaru
12. Ambari ...
13. Selim (boy from Jerusalem), Arab ihterpreter,
14. Bunder Salaam (of Malabar), cook.
15. Abdul Kader „ tailor and help.
16. Hamadi (Wangwana), kirangozi.
17. Sarboko „ ... pagaz'i.
18. Jafooneh „
19. Farjalla „
20. Khamisi „
21. Asmani „
22. Chamba
23. Shubari „
24. Makoriga „
25. Khamis „
Probably some of these people above named will
acquire habits or exhibit characters very different from
72
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
those I imagined them to have while en route to Un-
yanyembe. We shall be better judges of them and
their points when we shall have arrived at Tabora,
where a general muster will be made for inspection,
and to hear the reports of the four caravans which have
preceded us. Altogether the Expedition numbers on the
day of departure three white men, twenty-three soldiers,
four supernumeraries, four chiefs, and- one hundred and
fifty-three pagazis, twenty-seven donkeys, and one cart,
conveying cloth, beads, and wire, boat-fixings, tents,
cooking utensils and dishes, medicine, powder, small
shot, musket-balls, and metallic cartridges ; instruments
and small necessaries, such as soap, sugar, tea, coffee,
Liebig's extract of meat, pemmican, candles, &c., which
make a total of 153 loads. The weapons of defence
which the Expedition possesses consist of one double-
barrel breech-loading gun, smooth bore ; one American
Winchester rifle, or " sixteen-shooter ;" one Henry rifle,
or "sixteen-shooter;" two Starr's breech-loaders, one
Jocelyn breech-loader, one elephant rifle, carrying balls
eight to the pound ; two breech-loading revolvers,
twenty-four muskets (flint-locks), six single-barreled
pistols, one battle-axe, two swords, two daggers (Per-
sian kummers, purchased at Shiraz by myself), one
boar-spear, two American axes 4 lbs. each, twenty-four
hatchets, and twenty-four butcher-knives.
The Expedition has been fitted with care ; whatever
it needed was not stinted ; everything was provided.
Nothing was done too hurriedly, yet everything was
purchased, manufactured, collected, and compounded
with the utmost despatch consistent with efficiency and
means. Should it fail of success in its errand of rapid
transit to Ujiji and back, it must simply happen from
an accident which could not be controlled. So much
Mabch, 187L] THBOUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 73
for the personnel of the Expedition and its purpose, until
its point de mire be reached.
"We left Bagamoyo the attraction of all the curious,
with much eclat, and defiled up a narrow lane shaded
almost to twilight by the dense umbrage of two parallel
hedges of mimosas. We were all in the highest
spirits. The soldiers sang, the kirangozi lifted his
voice into a loud bellowing note, and fluttered the
American flag, which told all on-lookers, " Lo, a Mu-
sungu's caravan !" and my heart, I thought, palpitated
much too quickly for the sober face of a leader. But I
could not check it ; the enthusiasm of youth still cluug
to me — despite my travels ; my pulses bounded with the
full glow of staple health ; behind me were the troubles
which had harassed me for over two mouths. With
that dishonest son of a Hindi, Soor Hadji Palloo, I
had said my last word ' of the blatant rabble of Arabs,
Banyans, and Baluches I had taken my last look ;
with the Jesuits of the French Mission I had exchanged
farewells, and before me beamed the sun of promise
as he sped towards the Occident. Loveliness glowed
around me. I saw fertile fields, riant vegetation,
strange trees — I heard the cry of cricket and pee-wit,
and sibilant sound of many insects, all of which seemed
to tell me, " At last you are started." What could I
do but lift my face toward the pure-glowing sky, and
cry, " God be thanked !"
The first camp, Shamba Gonera, we arrived at in
1 hour 30 minutes, equal to 3i miles. This first, or *' little
journey," was performed very well, " considering,"
as the Irishman says. The boy Selim upset the cart not
more than three times. Zaidi, the soldier, only once let
his donkey, which carried one bag of my clothes and a
box of ammunition, he in a puddle of black water. The
74
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
clothes had to be re- washed; the ammunition-box,
thanks to my prevision, was waterproof. Kamna
perhaps knew the art of donkey-driving, but, over-
joyful at the departure, had sung himself into oblivion
of the difficulties with which an animal of the pure asi-
nine breed has naturally to contend, such as not know-
ing the right road, and inability to resist the temptation
of' straying into the depths of a manioc field ; and the
donkey, ignorant of the custom in vogue amongst ass-
drivers of flourishing sticks before an animal's nose,
and misunderstanding the direction in which he was
required to go, ran off at full speed along an opposite
road, until his pack got unbalanced, and he was fain
to come to the earth. But these incidents were trivial,
of no importance, and natural to the first " little
journey " in East Africa.
The soldiers' points of character leaked out just a
little. Bombay turned out to be honest and trusty, but
slightly disposed to be dilatory. Uledi did more talking
than work ; while the runaway Ferajji and the useless-
handed Mabruki Burton turned out to be true men
and staunch, carrying loads the sight of which would
have caused the strong-limbed hamals of Stamboul to
sigh.
The saddles were excellent, surpassing expectation.
The strong hemp canvas bore its one hundred and fifty-
pounds' burden with the strength of bull hide, and the .
loading and unloading of miscellaneous baggage was
•performed with systematic despatch. In brief, there
was nothing to regret — the success of the journey
proved our departure to be anything but premature.
The next three days were employed in putting the
finishing touches to our preparations for the long land
journey and our precautions against the Masika, which
Maech, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 75
was now ominously near, and in settling accounts.
The soldiers and pagazis eniplo3'ed the interval in
visiting their female friends ; but I forbear the chro-
nique scandaleuse.
Shamba Gonera means Gonera's Field. Gonera
is a wealthy Indian widow, well disposed towards the
Wasungu (.whites). She exports much cloth, beads,
and wire into the far interior, and imports in return
much ivory. Her house is after the model of the town
houses, with long sloping roof and projecting eaves,
affording a cool shade, under which the pagazis love to
loiter. On its southern and eastern sides stretch the
cultivated fields which supply Bagamoyo with the
staple grain, matama, of East Africa ; on the left grow
Indian corn, and muhogo, a yam-like root of whitish
color, called by some manioc ; when dry, it is ground
and compounded into cakes similar to army slapjacks.
On the north, just behind the house, winds a black quag-
mire, a sinuous hollow, which in its deepest parts always
contains water — the muddy home of the brake- and rush-
loving " kiboko " or hippopotamus. Its banks, crowded
with dwarf fan-palm, tall water-reeds, acacias, and
tiger-grass, afford shelter to numerous aquatic birds,
pelicans, &c. After following a course north-easterly, it
conflows with the Kingani, which, at the distance of four
miles from Gonera's country-house, bends eastward into
. the sea. To the west, after a mile of cultivation, fall
and recede in succession the sea-beaches of old in
lengthy parallel waves, overgrown densely with forest
grass and marsh reeds. On the spines of these land-
swells flourish ebony, calabash, and mango.
" Sofari — sofari leo ! Pakia, pakia !" — " A journey —
a journey to-day ! Set out ! — set out !" rang the cheery
voice of the kirangozi, echoed by that of my drum-
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
major, servant, general help and useful hand, the Arab
boy Selim, on the morning of the fourth day, which
was that fixed for our departure in earnest. As I hurried
my men to their work, and lent a hand with energy to
drop the tents, I mentally resolved that, if my caravans
ahead should give me clear space, Unyanyembe should
be our resting-place before three months expired. By
6 A.M. our early breakfast was despatched, and the
donkeys and pagazis were defiling from Camp Gonera.
Even at this early hour, and in this country place,
there was quite a collection of curious natives, to whom
we gave the parting " quahary" with sincerity. My bay
horse was found to be invaluable for the service of a
quarter-master of a transport-train ; for to such was I
compelled to compare myself. I could stay behind
until the last donkey had quitted the camp, and, by a
few minutes' gallop, I could put myself at the head,
leaving Shaw to bring up the rear.
The road was a mere footjDath, and led over a soil,
which, tliough sandy, was of surprising fertility, produc-
ing grain and vegetables a hundredfold, the sowing and
planting of which was done in the most unskilful
manner. In their fields, at heedless labor, were men
and women in the scantiest costumes, compared to which
Adam and Eve, in their fig-leaf ajDparel, must have been
en grande tenue. Nor were they at all abashed by the
devouring gaze of men who were strangers to clotheless
living bodies, nor did they seem to comprehend why
inordinate curiosity should be returned with more than
interest. They left their work as the Wasungu drew
nigh ; such hybiids in solar topees, white flannels, and
horse-boots were they ! Had the Wasungu been desirous
of studying the outlines of anatomy and physiology,
what a rich field for study ! We passed them with
I
March, 1871.] THBOUGU UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHEA. 77
serious faces, while they langhed and giggled, and
pointed their index fingers at this and that, which to
them seemed so strange and bizarre.
In about half an hour we had left the tall matama
and fields of water-melons, cucumbers, and manioc ;
and, crossing a reedy slough, were in an open forest of
ebony and calabash. In its depths are deer in plentiful
numbers, and at night it is visited by the hippopotami
of the Kingani for the sake of its g'rass. In another
hour we had emerged from the woods, and were looking
down upon the broad valley of the Kingani, and a scene
presented itself so utterly different from what my foolish
imagination had drawn, that I felt quite relieved by the
pleasing disappointment. Here was a valley stretching
four miles east and west, and about eight miles north
and south, left with the richest soil to its own wild
growth of grass — which in civilisation would have been
a most valuable meadow for the rearing of cattle — in-
vested as it was by dense forests, darkening the horizon
at all points of the compass, and folded in by tree-clad
ridges.
At the sound of our caravan the red antelope bounded
away to our right and the left, and frogs hushed their
croak. The sun shone hot, and while traversing the
valley we experienced a little of its real African fervor.
About half-way across we came to a sluice of stagnant
water which, directly in the road of the caravan, had
settled down into an oozy pond. The pagazis crossed
a hastily-constructed bridge, thrown up a long time
ago by some Washensi Samaritans. It was an extra-
ordinary affair ; rugj^ed tree limbs resting on very
unsteady forked piles, and it had evidently tested the
patience of many a loaded Mnyamwczi, as it did those
porters of our caravan. Our weaker animals were
78
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
unloaded, the puddle between Bagamojo and Gronera
having taught us prudence. But this did not occasion
much delay, the men worked smartly under -Shaw's
supervision.
The turbid Kingani, famous for its hippopotami, was
reached in a short time, and we began to thread the
jungle along its right bank until we were halted point-
blank by a narrow sluice having an immeasurable
depth of black mjid. The diflSculty presented by this
wari very grave, though its breadth was barely eight
feet ; the donkeys and least of all the horses, could not
be made to traverse two poles like our biped carriers,
neither could they be driven into the sluice where they
would quickly founder. The only available way of
crossing it in safety was by means of a bridge, to
endure in this conservative land for generations as the
handiwork of the Wasungu. So we set to work, there
being no help for it, with American axes — the first of
their kind the strokes of which ever rang in this part
of the world — to build a bridge. Be sure it was made
quickly, for where the civilised white is found, a diffi-
culty must vanish. The bridge was composed of six
stout trees thrown across, over these were laid cross-
wise fifteen pack saddles, covered again with a thick
layer of grass. All the animals crossed it safely, and
then for a tliird time that morning the process of wading
was performed. The Kingani flowed northerly here,
and our course lay down its right bank. A half mile
in that direction through a jungle of giant reeds and
extravagant climbers brought us to the ferry, where
the animals had to be again unloaded — verily, I wished
when I saw its deep muddy waters that I possessed the
power of Moses with his magic rod, or what would have
answered my purpose as well, Aladdin's ring, for then
March, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 79
I could have found myself and party on the opposite
side without further trouble : but not having either of
these gifts I issued orders for an immediate crossing,
for it was ill wishing sublime things before this most
mundane prospect.
Kingwere, the canoe paddler, espying us from his
brake covert on the opposite side, civilly responded to
our halloes, and brought his huge hollowed tree skilfully
over the whirling eddies of the river to where we stood
waiting for him. While one party loaded the canoe with
our goods, others got ready a long rope to fasten around
the animals' necks wherewith to haul them through
the river to the other bank. After seeing the work
properly commenced, I sat down on a condemned canoe
to amuse myself with the hippopotami by peppering
their thick skulls with my No. 12 smooth-bore. The
"Winchester rifle (calibre 44), a present from the Hon.
Edward Joy Morris — our minister at Constantinople —
did no more than slightly tap them, causing about as
much injury as a boy's sling ; it was perfect in its accu-
racy of fire, for ten times in succession I struck the tops
of their heads between the ears. One old fellow, with
the look of a sage, was tapped close to the right ear by
one of these bullets. Instead of submerging himself
as others had done he coolly turned round his head as
if to ask, *' Why this waste of valuable cartridges on
us?" The response to the mute inquiry of his sageship
was an ounce-and-a-quarter bullet from the smooth-
bore, which made him bellow with pain, and in a few
moments he rose up again tumbling in his death
agonies. As his groans were so piteous, I refrained
from a useless sacrifice of life, and left the amphibious
horde in peace.
A little knowledge concerning these uncouth inmates
80
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
of the African waters was gained even during the few
minutes we were delayed at the ferry. When undis-
turbed by foreign sounds, they congregate in shallow
water on the sand bars, with the fore half of their
bodies exposed to the warm sunshine, and are in
appearance, when thus somnolently reposing, very like
a herd of enormous swine. When startled by the noise
of an intruder, they plunge hastily into the depths,
lashing the waters into a yellowish foam, and scatter
themselves below the surface, when presently the heads
of a few reappear, snorting the water from their nostrils,
to take a fresh breath and a cautious scrutiny around
them ; when thus, we see but their ears, forehead, eyes,
and nostrils, and as they hastily submerge agaio it
requires a steady wrist and a quick hand to shoot them.
I have heard several comparisons made of their appear-
ance while floating in this manner : some Arabs told
me before I had seen them that they looked like dead
trees carried down the river ; others who in some country
had seen hogs, thought they resembled them, but to my
mind they look more like horses when swimming —
their curved necks and pointed ears, their wide eyes,
and expanded nostrils, favor greatly this comparison.
At night they seek the shore, and wander several
miles over the country, luxuriating among its rank
grasses. To within four miles of the town of Bagamoyo
(the Kingani is eight miles distant) their wide tracks
are seen. Frequently, if not disturbed by the startling
human voice, they make a raid on the rich corn-stalks
of the native cultivators, and a dozen of them will in a
few minutes make a frightful havoc in a large field oi
this plant. Consequently, we were not surprised, while
delayed at the ferry, to hear the owners of the corn
venting loud halloes, like the rosy -cheeked farmer boys
March, 1871.] THROUGH USWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 81
in England when scaring the crows away from the
young wheat.
The caravan in the meanwhile had- crossed safely —
bales, baggage, donkeys, and men. I had thought to
have camped on the bank, so as to amuse myself with
shooting antelope, and also for the sake of procuring
their meat, in order to save my goats, of which I had a
number constituting my live stock of provisions ; but,
thanks to the awe and dread which my men entertained
of the hippopotami, I was hurried on to the outpost of
the Baliach garrison at Bagamoyo, a small village called
Kikoka, distant four miles from the river.
The western side of the river was a considerable
improvement upon the eastern. The plain, slowly
heaving upwards, as smoothly as the beach of a
watering-place, for the distance of a mile, until it
culminated in a gentle and rounded ridge, presented
none of those difficulties which troubled us on the other
side. There were none of those cataclysms of mire and
sloughs of black mud and over-tall grasses, none of that
miasmatic jungle with its noxious emissions ; it was
just such a scene as one may find before an English
mansion — a noble expanse of lawn and sward, with
boscage sufficient to agreeably diversify it. After
traversing the open plain, the road led through a grove
of young ebony trees, where guinea-fowls and a
hartebeest were seen ; it then wound, with all the
characteristic eccentric curves of a goat-path, up and
down a succession of land-waves crested by* the dark
green foliage of the mango, and the scantier and lighter-
coloured leaves of the enormous calabash. The depres-
sions were filled with jungle of more or less density,
while here and there opened glades, shadowed even
during noon by thin groves of towering trees. At our
a
82
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
approach fled in terror flocks of green pigeons, jays,
ibis, turtledoves, golden pheasants, quails and moorhens,
with crows and hawks, while now and then a solitary
pelican winged its way to the distance.
Nor was this enlivening prospect without its pairs
of antelope, and monkeys which popped away like
Australian kangaroos ; these latter were of good size,
with round bullet heads, white breasts, and long tails
tufted at the end.
We arrived at Kikoka by 5 P.M., having loaded and
unloaded our pack animals four times, crossing one
deep puddle, a mud sluice, and a river, and performed
a journey of eleven miles.
The settlement of Kikoka is a collection of straw
huts, not built after any architectural style, but after a
bastard form, invented by indolent settlers from the
Mrima and Zanzibar, for the purpose of excluding as
much sunshine as possible from the eaves and interior.
A sluice and some wells provide them with water,
which though sweet is not particularly wholesome or
appetizing, owing to the large quantities of decayed
matter which is washed into it by the rains, and is then
left to corrupt in it. A weak effort has been made
to clear the neighbourhood for providing a place for
cultivation, but to the dire task of wood-chopping and
jungle-clearing the settlers prefer occupying an open
glade, which they clear t)f grass, so as to be able to
hoe up two or three inches of soil, into which they cast
their seed, confident of return.
To induce my readers to open the map which I have
prepared, and which accompanies this book, I must
state that the route traversed by me was never traversed
by a white man previously. If they will also take the
trouble of ascertaining the route undertaken by Burton
Mabch, 1871.] THROUGH UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEGUJIEA. 83
and Speke, subsequently hj Speke and Grant, there
will be found to be a wide difference between mine
and that of my predecessors. On Burton's map, th&
country, for five degrees of longitude directly west of
Bagamoyo, is entirely barren of towns and villages and
settlements ; on my map this deficiency is supplied, and
thus little by little the great heart of Africa is becoming
better known. Whatever may be discovered by me on
this route, to white men hitherto unknown or unverified,
I beg to lay claim even to that little as its discoverer.
My object in tendering this request is that a certain
travelled gentleman at Zanzibar, who has been residing
there some years, tried to deter me from proceeding by
this road, by stating that such a journey would be
totally devoid of interest, as the wdiole country was
well known. His motives were most generous, he
would have wished that I should ascend the Rufiji
Eiver, so that it might become known to geographers.
From my heart I wished that I could, but circumstances
forbade the effort. I was sent out on an errand, not
as a discoverer, and the quickest and shortest metliod
of fulfilling my duty was to be my study. If that
quickest and shortest method took me along a well-
known road traversed by three gentlemen, each of
whom has written what he knows of it, the blame or
fault is not mine ; but as it has proved that it took
me along an untravelled road, through a hitherto mi-
known 'country, so much the more fortunate am I. I
excluded the Rufiji route from my mind as being
totally impracticable with my means, and preferred to
choose the road through Ukwere, Ukami, Udoe,
Useguhha, Usagara, and Northern Ugogo ; the result
and duration of the march proves that I could not have
bettered myself, it being a direct western course.
Q 2
64
EOW I FOUND LIVING STONK
The next day was a halt at Kikoka ; the fourth
caravan, consisting solely of Wanyamwezi, proving a
sore obstacle to a rapid advance. Maganga, its chief,
devised several methods of extorting more cloth and
presents frona me, he having cost already more than
any three chiefs together, but his efforts were of no
avail further than obtaining promises of reward if he
would hurry on to Unyanyembe so that I might find
my road clear.
On the 27th, the Wanyamwezi having started, we
broke camp soon after at 7 a.m. The country was of
the same nature as that l}^ng between the Kingani
and Kikoka — a park land, attractive and beautiful in
every feature.
I rode in advance to secure meat should a chance
present itself, but not the shadow of vert or venison did
I see. Ever in our front — westerly — rolled the land-
waves, now rising, now subsiding, parallel one with
the other like a ploughed field many times magnified.
Each ridge had its knot of jungle or its thin combing
of heavily foliaged trees, until we arrived close to
Rosako, our next halting place, when the monotonous
wavure of the land underwent a change, breaking into
independent hummocks clad with dense jungle. On
one of these, veiled by an impenetrable jungle of thorny
acacia, rested Rosako, girt round by its natural fortifica-
tion, neighbouring another village to the north of it
similarly protected. Between therA sank a valley ex-
tremely fertile and bountiful in its productions, bisected
by a small stream which serves as a drain to the valley
or low hills surrounding it.
Rosako is the frontier village of Ukwere, while
Kikoka is the north-western extremity of Uzaramo.
We entered this village, and occupied its central
March, 1871.] THROUGH UEWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 85
portion with our tents and animals. A kitanda, or
square light be'dstead, without valance, fringe, or
any superfluity whatever, but nevertheless quite as
comfortable as with them, was brought to my tent for
my use by the village chief. The animals were, imme-
diately after being unloaded, driven out to feed, and
the soldiers to a man set to work to pile the baggage up,
lest the rain, which during the Masika season always
appears imminent, might cause irreparable damage.
Among other experiments which I was about to try in
Africa was that of a good watch-dog on any unmannerly
people who would insist upon coming into my tent at
untimely hours and endangering valuables. Especially
did I wish to try the effect of its bark on the mighty
Wgogo, who, I was told by certain Arabs, would lift the
door of the tent and enter whether you wished them or
not ; who would chuckle at the fear they inspired, and
say to you, " Hi, hi, white man, I never saw the like of
you before ; are there many more like you ? where do
you come from ?" Also would they take hold of your
watch and ask you with a cheerful curiosity, " What
is this for, white man ?" to which you of course would
reply that it was to tell you the hour and minute. But
the Wgogo, proud of his prowess, and more unmannerly
than a brute, would answer you with a snort of insult,
saying, " Oh, you fool !" or, " You be damned for a
liar !" I thought of a watch-dog, and procured a good
one at Bombay not only as a faitliful companion, but to
threaten the heels of just such gentry.
But soon after our arrival at Rosako it was found
that the dog, whose name was " Omar," given liim from
his Turkish origin, was missing ; lie had strayed away
from the soldiers during a rain-sqnall and liad got
lost. I despatched Mabruki Burton back to Kikn]<a tti
86
EOW J FOUND LIVINGSTON JS.
search for him. On the following morning, just
as we were about to leave Rosako, the faithful fellow
returned with the lost dog, having found him at
Kikoka.
Previous to our departure on the morning after this,
Maganga, chief of the fourth caravan, brought me the un-
happy report that three of his pagazis were sick, and he
would like to have some " dowa " — medicine. Though
not a doctor, or in any way connected with the pro-
fession, I had a well-supplied medicine chest — without
which no traveller in Africa could live — for just such a
contingency as was now present. On visiting Maganga's
sick men, I found one suffering from inflammation of
the lungs, another from the Mukunguru (African inter-
mittent), and the third from a venereal affection. They
all imagined themselves about to die, and called loudly
for " Mama !" " Mama !" though they were all grown
men. It was evident that the fourth caravan could not
stir that day, so leaving word M'ith Maganga to hurry
after me as soon as possible, I issued orders for the
march of my own.
Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which
we have passed there were no traces of cultivation.
The country extending between the several stations
is as much a wilderness as the desert of Sahara, though
it possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed, had
the first man at the time of the Creation gazed at his
world and perceived it of the beauty which belongs to
this part of Africa, he would have had no cause of com-
plaint. In the deep thickets, set like islets amid a sea
of grassy verdure, he would have found shelter from
the noonday heat, and a safe retirement for himself and
spouse during the awesome darkness. In the morning
he could have walked forth on the sloping sward,
Makch, 1871.] THBOUQH VKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHIIA. 87
enjoyed its freshness, and performed Lis ablutions in
one of the many small streams flowing at its foot. His
garden of fruit-trees is all that is required ; the noble
forests, deep and cool, are round about him, and in their
shade walk as many animals as one can desire. For
days and days let a man walk in any direction, north,
south, east, and west, and he will behold the same scene.
Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe,
still a heart-felt anxiety about the arrival of my
goods carried by the fourth caravan, served as a
drag upon me, and before my caravan had marched
nine miles my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch,
and caused me to order a camp there and then. The
place selected for it was near a long straggling sluice,
having an abundance of water during the rainy season,
draining as it does two extensive slopes. No sooner
had we pitched our camp, built a boma of thorny
acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them
round our camp, and driven our animals to grass, than
we were made aware of the formidable number and
variety of the insect tribe, which for a time was another
source of anxiety, until a diligent examination of the
several species dispelled it.
As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted
for the several specimens- of the insects, I here append
the record of it for what it is worth. My object in
obtaining these specimens was to determine whether
the genus Glossina morsitans of the naturalist, or the
tsetse (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone, A'ardon,
Gumming, and Kirk, said to be deadly to horses, was
amongst them. I wished to preserve my two horses, if
po.ssil)le; but Dr. Kirk had, with all the enthusiasm
and dogmatism of a hobbyist, foretold the certain death
ol' niy horses from the tsetse fly, which, he said,
88
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONS.
abounded in great numbers in the country west of
Bagamoyo. Up to this date I had been nearly two
months ip East Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse ;
and my horses, instead of becoming emaciated — for
such is one of the symptoms of a tsetse bite — had con-
siderably improved in condition. There were three
different species of flies which sought shelter in my
tent, which, unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of
sounds — one performed the basso profondo, another a
tenor, and the third a weak contralto. The first
emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long,
having a ventral capacity for blood quite astonishing.
The terrible fears engendered by Dr. Kirk's asser-
tion made it out to be the tsetse, so this was the one
chosen for the first inspection, which was of the intensest.
I permitted one to alight on my flannel pyjamas, which
I wore while en deshabille in camp. No sooner had he
alighted than his posterior was raised, his head lowered,
and his weapons, consisting of four hair-like styles,
unsheathed from the proboscis-like .bag which concealed
them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by
a dexterous lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I
permitted him to gorge himself, though my patience
and naturalistic interest were sorely tried. I saw his
abdominal parts distend with the plentitude cf the
repast until it had swollen to three times its former
shrunken girth, when he flew away of his own accord
laden with blood. On rolling up my flannel pyjamas
to see the fountain whence the fly had drawn the fluid,
I discovered it to be a little above the left knee, by a
crimson bead resting over the incision. After wiping
the blood the wound was similar to that caused by a
deep thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished
with the departure of the fly.
Mabch, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 89
Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next pro-
ceeded to institute a comparison between it and the
tsetse, as described by Dr. Livingstone on pp. 56-57,
' Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa '
(Murray's edition of 1868). The points of disagree-
ment are many, and such as to make it entirely im-
probable that this fly. is the true tsetse, though my
men unanimously stated that its bite was fatal to horses
as well as to donkeys. A descriptive abstract of the
tsetse would read thus : " Not much larger than a
common house-fly, nearly of the same brown colour as
the honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars
across it. It has a peculiar buzz, and its bite is death
to the horse, ox, and dog. On man the bite has no
effect, neither has it on wild animals. When allowed
to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle prong of three
portions into which the proboscis divides, it then
draws the prong out a little way, and it assumes a
crimson color as the mandibles come into brisk opera-
tion ; a slight itching irritation follows the bite."
The fly which I had under inspection is called
mabunga by the natives. It is much larger than the
common house-fly, fully a third larger than the common
honey-bee, and its color more distinctly marked ; its
head is black, with a greenish gloss to it ; the after-
part of the body is marked by a white line running
lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and on
each side of this white line are two other lines, one of
a crimson color, the other of a light brown. As for its
buzz, there is no peculiarity in it, it miglit be mistaken
for that of a honey-bee. \\'hen caught it made
desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to
bite. This fly, along with a score of others, attacked
my grey horse, and bit it so sorely in the legs that they
90
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE:
appeared as if bathed in blood. Hence, I might have
been a little vengeful if, with more than the zeal of an
entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever pecu-
liarities its biting parts .possessed.
In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible
before my readers, I may compare its head to a most
tiny miniature of an elephant's, because it has a black
proboscis and a pair of horny antennae, which in color
and curve resemble tusks. The black proboscis, how-
ever, is simply a hollow sheath, which encloses, when
not in the act of biting, four reddish and sharp lancets.
Under the microscope these four lancets differ in thick-
ness, two are very thick, the third is slender, but the
fourth, of an opal color and almost transparent, is
exceedingly fine. This last must be the sucker when
the fly is about to wound, the two horny antennae are
made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed,
and on the instant the incision is performed. This I
consider to be the African " horse-fly."
The second fly, which sang the tenor note, more
nearly resembled in size and description the tsetse. It
was exceedingly nimble, and it occupied three soldiers
nearly an hour to capture a specimen ; and, when it was
finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand, and
never ceased its efforts to attack until it was pinned
through. It had three or four white marks across, the
after-part of its body ; but the biting parts of this fly
consisted of two black antennas and an opal colored
style, wliich folded away under the neck. When about
to bite this style was shot out straight, and the antennsB
embraced it closely. After death the fly lost its dis-
tinctive white marks. Only one of this species did we-
see at this camp.
The tliird fly, called " chufwa," pitched a weak alto-
March, 1871.] THBOUGU UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 91
crescendo note, was a third larger than the house fly, and
had long wings. If this insect sang the feeblest note,
it certainly did the most work, and inflicted the most
injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with blood, and
reared and kicked through the pain. So determined
was it not to be driven before it obtained its fill, that
it was easily despatched; but this dreadful enemy to
cattle constantly increased in numbers. The three
species above named are, according to natives, fatal to
cattle ; and this may perhaps be the reason why such a
vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic
cattle of any kind, a few goats only being kept by
the villagers. This fly I subsequently found to be the
" tsetse."
On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I
deemed it more prudent to await the fourth caravan.
Burton experimented sufficiently for me on the pro-
mised word of the Banyans of Kaole and Zanzibar,
and had to wait eleven months before he received the
promised articles; As I did not expect to be much
over that time on my errand altogether, it would be
ruin, absolute and irremediable, should I be detained
at Unyanyembe so long a time by my caravan.
Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase.
I was but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had
shot a little on the plains of America and Persia, yet
I considered myself a fair shot ; and on game ground,
and within a reasonable proxinlity to game, I doubted
not but I could bring some to 'camp.
After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the
open, wo gained the glades between the jungles. Un-
successful here, after ever so much piying into fine
hiding-places and lurking corners, I struck a trail well
traversed by small antelope and hartebeest, which we
followed. It led me into a jungle, and down a water-
92
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
course bisecting it ; but, after following it for an hour,
I lost it, and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my
way. However, my pocket-compass stood me in good
stead ; and by it I stored for the open plain, in the
centre of which stood the camp. But it was terribly
hard work — this of plunging through an African
jungle, ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle.
In order to travel quickly, I had donned a pair of
flannel pyjamas, and my feet were encased in canvas
shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone a few
paces a branch of the acacia honrida — only one of a
hundred such annoyances — caught the right leg of my
pyjamas at the knee, and ripped it almost clean off ;
succeeding which a stumpy kolquall caught me by the
shoulder, and another rip was the inevitable conse-
quence. A few yards farther on, a prickly aloetic
plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my
pyjamas, and almost immediately I tripped against a
convolvulus strong as ratline, and was made to measure
my length on a bed of thorns. It was on all fours, like
a hound on a scent, that I was compelled to travel ; my
solar topee getting the worse for wear every minute ;
my skin getting more and more wounded ; my clothes
at each step becoming more and more tattered. Besides
these discomforts, there was a pungent, acrid plant,
which, apart from its strong odorous emissions, struck
me smartly on the face, leaving a burning effect similar
to cayenne ; and the atmosphere, pent in by the density
of the jungle, was hot and stifling, and the perspiration
trajisuded- through every pore, making my flannel
tatters feel as if I had been througli a shower. AVlieu
I had finally regained the plain and could breathe free,
I mentally vowed that the penetralia of an African
jungle should not be visited by me again, save under
most urgent necessity.
March, 1871.] TBROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUEEA. 93
Notwithstanding the ruthless rents in my clothes
and my epidermal wounds, as I looked over the grandly
undulating plain, lovely with its coat of green verdure,
with its boundaries of noble woods, heavy with vernal
leafage, and regarded the pretty bosky islets amid its
wide expanse, I could not but award it its meed of
high praise. Daily the country advanced in my estima-
tion, for hitherto I felt that I was but obeying orders ;
and sickly as it might be, I was in duty bound to
go on ; but, for fear of the terrible fever, made more
terrible by the feverish perspective created in my ima-
gination by the embitterment of Capt. Burton's book,
I vowed I would not step one foot out of my way.
Shall I inform you, reader, what 'The Lake Regions
of Central Africa,' and subsequently the reports of
European merchants of Zanzibar, caused me to imagine
the interior was like ? It was that of an immense
swamp, curtained round about with the fever — " a
species of Yellow Jack," which was sure, if it did not
kill me outright, so to weaken body and brain as to
render me for the future a helpless imbecile. In this
swamp, which extended over two hundred miles into
the interior, sported an immense niimber of hippopo-
tami, crocodiles, alligators, lizards, tortoises, find toads ;
and the miasma rising from this vast cataclysm of mud,
corruption, and putrescence, was as thick and soi'ely
depressing as the gloomy and suicidal fog of London.
Ever in my mind in the foreground of this bitter
picture were the figures of poor Burton and Speke,
" the former a confirmed invalid, and the other perma-
nently afiected" in the brain by this fever. The worm-
wood and fever tone of Capt. Burton's book I regarded
as the result of African disease. But ever since my
arrival on the mainland, day by day the pall-like
94
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
curtain had been clearing away, and the cheerless
perspective was brightening. We had been now two
months on the East African soil, and not one of my
men had been sick. The Europeans had gained in
flesh, and their appetites were always in prime order.
The second and third day passed without any news
of Maganga. Accordingly, Shaw and Bombay were
sent to hurry him up by all means. On the fourth
morning Shaw and Bombay returned, followed by the
procrastinating Maganga and his laggard people. Ques-
tions only elicited an excuse that his men had been
too sick, and he had feared to tax their strength before
they were quite equal to stand the fatigue. Moreover
he suggested that as they would be compelled to stay
one day more at the camp, I might push on to Kin-
garu and camp there, until his arrival. Acting upon
which suggestion I broke camp and started for Kin-
garu, distant five miles.
On this march the land was more broken, and the
caravan first encountered jungle, which gave consider-
able trouble to our cart. Pisolitic limestone cropped out
in boulders and sheets, and we began to imagine ourselves
approaching healthy highlands, and as if to give con-
firmation to the thought, to the north and north-west
loomed the purple cones of Udoe, and topmost of all
Dilima Peak, about 1,500 feet in height above the
sea level. But soon after sinking into a bowl-like
valley, green with tall corn, the road slightly deviated
from north-west to west, the country still rolling before
us in wavy undulations.
In one of the depressions between these lengthy land-
swells stood the village of Kingaru, with surroundings
significant in their aspect of ague and fever. Perhaps
the clouds surcharged with rain, and the overhanging
Mabch, 1871.] TEROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 95
ridges and their dense forests dulled by the gloom, made
the place more than usually disagreeable, but my first
impressions of the sodden hollow, pent in by those dull
woods with the deep gully close by containing pools
of stagnant water, were by no means agreeable.
Before we could arrange our camp and set the tents
up, down poured the furious harbinger of the Masika
season, in torrents sufficient to damp the ardor and
new-born love for East Africa I had lately manifested.
However, despite rain, we worked on until our camp
was finished and the property was Safely stored from
weather and thieves, and we could regard with resigna-
tion the raindrops beating the soil into mud of a very
tenacious kind; and forming lakelets and rivers of our
camp-ground.
Towards night, the scene having reached its acme
of unpleasantness, the rain ceased, and the natives
poured into camp from the villages in the woods with
their vendibles. Foremost among these, as if in duty
bound, came the village sultan — lord, chief, or head —
bearing three measures of matama and half a measure
of rice of which "he begged, with paternal smiles, my
acceptance. But under the smiling mask, bleared eyes,
and wrinkled front of him was visible the soul of
trickery, which was' of the cunningest kind. Responding
under the same mask adopted by this knavish elder,
I said, " The chief of Kingaru has called me a rich
sultan. If I am a rich sultan why comes not the chief
with a rich present to me that he might get a rich
return ?" Said he, with another leer of his wrinkled
visage, " Kingaru is poor, there is no matama in the
village." To which I replied that sii^ce thcie was no
mat{iraa in the village I would pay him half a sliukka,
or a yard of cloth, which would be exactly equivalent
96
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to his present ; tbat if lie preferred to call his small
basketful a present, I should be content to call my yard
of cloth a present. With which logic he was fain to
be satisfied.
April 1st. — To-day the Expedition suffered a loss in
the death of the grey Arab horse presented by Syed
Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. The night previous
I had noticed that the horse was suffering. Bearing in
mind what Dr. Kirk, acting British Consul at Zanzibar,
had so frequently asserted, namely, that no horses
could live in the interior of Africa because of the tsetse,
I had him opened, and the stomach, which I believed
to be diseased, examined. Besides much undigested
matama and grass there were found twenty-five short,
thick, white worms, sticking like leeches into the
coating of the stomach, while the intestines were almost
alive with the numbers of long white worms. I was
satisfied that neither man nor beast could long exist
with such a mass of corrupting life within him.
In order that the dead carcase might not taint the
valley, I had it buried deep in the ground, about a score
of yards from the encampment. From such a slight
cause ensued a tremendous uproar from Kingaru —
chief of the village — who, with his brother-chiefs of
neighbouring villages, numbering in the aggregate two
dozen wattled huts, had taken counsel upon the best
means of mulcting the Musungu of a full doti or two
of Merikarii, and finally had arrived at the conviction
tliat the act of .burying a dead horse in their soil with-
out "By your leave, sir," was a grievous and fineable
fault. Affecting great indignation at the unpardonable
omission, lie, Kingaru, concluded to send to the Musungu
four of liis young men to say to him that "since you
have buried your horse in my ground, it is well ; let
April, 1871.] THROUOn USWEffE, ETC., TO USEQUniTA. 97
him remain there, but yon must pay me two doti of
Merikani." For reply the messengers were told to say
to the chief that I would prefer talking the matter over
with himself face to face, if he would condescend to visit
me in my tent once again. As the village was but a
stone's throw from our encampment, before many
minutes had elapsed the wrinkled elder made his
appearance at the door of my tent with about half the
village behind him.
The following dialogue which took place will serve
to illustrate the tempers of the people with whom I was
about to have a year's trading intercourse : —
WIdte Man. — " Are you the great chief of Kingara?"
Kingaru. — " Huh-uh. Yes."
W. M.—'' The great, great chief?"
. Kingaru. — " Huh-uh. Yes."
W. M. — " How many soldiers have you ?"
Kingaru. — " Why ?"
W. M. — " How many fighting men have you ?"
Kingaru. — '* None."
W. M. — " Oh ! I thought you might have a thou-
sand men with you, by your going to fine a strong
white man, who has plenty of guns and soldiers, two
doti for burying a dead horse."
Kingaru (rather perplexed). — " No ; I have no
soldiers. I have only a few young men."
W. M. — " Why do you come and make trouble,
then ?"
Kingaru. — " It was not I ; it was my brothers who
said to me, * Come here, come here, Kingaru, see
what the white man has done ! Has he not taken
possession of your soil, in that lie has put his horse into
your ground without your permission ? Come, go to
him and see by what right.' Therefore have I come
u
98
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to ask you, who gave you permission to use my soil for
a burying-ground ?"
W. M. " I want no man's permission to do what is
right. My horse died ; had I left him to fester and
stink in your valley, sickness would visit your village,
your water would become unwholesome, and caravans
would not stop here for trade; for they would say, *This
is an unlucky spot, let us go away.' But enough said ;
I understand you to say that you do not want him
buried in your ground ; the error I have fallen into is
easily put right. This minute my soldiers shall dig
him out again, and cover up the soil as it was before ;
and the horse shall be left where he died." (Then
shouting to Bombay.) " Ho ! Bombay, take soldiers
with jembes to dig my horse out of the ground, drag
him to where he died, and make everything ready for a.
march to-morrow morning."
Kingaru, his voice considerably higher, and his head
moving to and fro with emotion, cries out, " Akuna,
akuna, Bana !" — " No, no, master ! Let not the white
man get angry. The horse is dead, and now lies
buried ; let him remain so, since he is already there,
and let us be friends again."
The Sheikh of Kingaru being thus brought to his
senses, we bid each other the friendly " quahary," and
I was left alone to ruminate over my loss. Barely
half an hour had elapsed, it was 9 p.m., the camp was
in a semi-doze, when I heard deep groans issuing from
one of the animals. Upon- inquiry as to what animal
was suffering, I was surprised to hear that it was my
bay horse. With a bull's-eye lantcrti, I visited him,
and perceived that the pain was located in the stomach,
but whetlier it was from some poisonous plant he had
eaten while out grazing, or from some equine disease.
April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEQUHIIA. 99
I did not know. He discharged copious quantities of
loose matter, but there was nothing peculiar in its
color. The pain was evidently very great, for the
groans were truly piteous, and his struggles very
violent. I was up all night, hoping that it was but a
temporary effect of some strange and noxious plant ;
but at 6 o'clock the next morning, after a short period
of great agony, he also died ; exactly fifteen hours
after his companion. When the stomach was opened,
it was found that death was caused by the internal
rupture of a large cancer, which had affected the larger
half of the coating of his stomach, and had extended an
inch or two up the larynx. The contents of the
stomach and intestines were deluged with the yellow
viscous efflux from the cancer.
I was thus deprived of both my horses, and that
within the short space of fifteen hours. With my limited
knowledge of veterinary science, however strengthened
by the actual and positive proofs obtained by the
dissection of the two stomachs, I can scarcely dare con-
tradict the assertion of Dr. Kirk, and state that horses
can live to reach Unyanyembe, or that they can travel
with ease through this part of East Africa. But should
I have occasion at some future day I should not hesitate
to take four horses with me, though I should certainly
endeavour to ascertain previous to purchase whether
they were jjerfectly sound and healtliy, and to those
travellers who cherish a good liorse I would say, " Try
one," and be not discouraged by my unfortunate
experiences.
The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd of April passed, and nothing
had we heard or seen of the ever-lagging fourth earaviui.
In the meanwhile the list of casualties was being aug-
mented. Besides the loss of this precious time, through
II 2
100'
ffOW I FOUND LIVnWSTONK
tliO perverseness of the chief of the other caravan, and the
lo^s of my two horses, a pagazi carrying hoat-fixtnres
improved the opportunity, and deserted. My interpreter,
Selim, was struck down with a severe attack of ague and
fever, and was soon after followed by the cook, then
by the assistant cook and tailor, Abdul Kader. Finally,
before the third day was over, Bombay had rheumatism,
UTedi (Grant's old valet) had a swollen throat, Zaidi
had the flux, Kingaru had the Mukunguru ; Khamisi, a
pagazi, suffered from a weakness of the loins ; Farjalla
had a bilious fever ; and before night closed Makoviga
had diarrhoea. My meditated rush towards TJnyanyembe,
and rapid transit througli the dread maritime region,
seemed destined to end somewhat similarly to the rush
upon Magdaia which Dr. Austin, of the London
"Times," so particularly urged upon Sir Robert Napier
in Abyssinia. Out of a force of twenty-five men one had
deserted, and ten were on the sick-list, and the presenti-
ment that the ill-looking neighbourhood of Kingaru
would prove calamitous to me, was verified.
On the 4th April, Maganga and his people appeared,
after being heralded by musketry -shots and horn-
blowing, the usual signs of an approaching caravan in
this land. His sick men were considerably improved,
but they required one more day of rest at Kingaru.
In the afternoon he came to lay siege to my generosity,
by giving details of Soor Hadji Palloo's heartless
cheats upon him ; but I informed him, that since I had
left Bagamoyo, I could no longer be generous ; we were
now in a land where cloth was at a high premium ; that
I had no more cloth than I should need to furnish food
for myself and men ; that he and his caravan had cost
me more money and trouble than any three caravans I
had, as indeed was the case. With this counter-state-
April, 1871.] TEROUOH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUBHA. 101
ment he was obliged to be content. But I again solved
his pecuniary doubts by promising that, if he hurried
his caravan on to Unyanyembe, he should have no
cause of complaint.
The 5th of April saw the fourth caravan vanish for
once in our front, with a fair promise that, however
fast we should follow, we should not see them the
hither side of Sinbamwenni.
The following morning, in order to rouse my people
from the sickened torpitude they had lapsed into, I beat
an exhilarating alarum on a tin pan with an iron ladle,
intimating that a sofari was about to be undertaken.
This had a very good effect, judging from the extra-
ordinary alacrity with which it was responded to.
Before the sun rose we started. The Kingaru villagers
were out with the velocity of hawks for any rags or
refuse left behind us.
The long march to Imbiki, fifteen miles, proved that
our protracted stay at Kingaru had completely demo-
ralized my soldiers and pagazis. Only a few of them
had strength enough to reach Imbiki before night. The
others, attending the laden donkeys, put in an appear-
ance next morning, in a lamentable state of mind and
body. Khamisi — the pagazi with the weak loins — had
deserted, taking with him two goats, the property tent,
and the whole of Uledi's personal wealth, consisting
of his visiting dish-dasheh — a long shirt of the
Arabic pattern, 10 lbs. of beads, and a few fine cloths,
which Uledi, in a generous fit, had entrusted to him,
while he carried the pagazi's load, 70 lbs. of Bubu beads.
This defalcation was not to be overlooked, nor should
Khamisi be permitted to return without an effort to
apprehend hini. Accordingly Uledi and Fcrayi ^^'ero
despatched in pursuit while we rested at Imbiki, iu
102 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
order to give the dilapidated soldiers and animals time
to recruit.
On the 8th we continued our journey, and arrived at
Msuwa. This march will be remembered by our caravan
as the most fatiguing of all, though the distance was but
ten miles. It was one continuous jungle, except three
interjacent glades of narrow limits, which gave us three
breathing pauses in the dire task of jungle travelling.
The odour emitted from its fell plants was so rank, so
pungently acrid, and the miasma from its decayed vege-
tation so dense, that I expected every moment to see my-
self and men drop down in paroxysms of acute fever.
Happil}' this evil was not added to that of loading and
unloading the frequently falling packs. Seven soldiers
to attend seventeen laden donkeys were entirely too
small a number while passing through a jungle ; for
while the path is but a foot wide, with a wall of thorny
plants and creepers bristling on each side, and pro-
jecting branches darting across it, with knots of spikey
twigs stiff as spike-nails, ready to catch and hold any-
thing above four feet in height, it is but reasonable to
suppose that donkeys standing four feet high, with
loads measuring across from bale to bale four feet, would
come to grief. . This grief was of frequent recurrence
here, causing us to pause every few minutes for re-
arrangements. So often had this task to be performed,
that the men got perfectly discouraged, and had to be
spoken to sharply before they set to work. By the time
I reached Msuwa there was nobody with me and the
ten donkeys I drove, but Mabruk the. Little, who,
though generally stolid, stood to his work like a
man. Bombay and Uledi were far behind, with the
most jaded donkeys. Shaw was in charge of the cart,
and his experiences were most bitter, as he informed
April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWEBE, ETC., TO USEOUHEA. 103
me he had expended a whole vocabulary of stormy
abuse known, to sailors, and a new one which he had
invented extempore. He did not arrive until two o'clock
next morning, and was completely worn out. Truly I
doubt if the most pious divine, in travelling through
that long jungle under such circumstances, with such
oft-recurring annoyances and Sisyphean labor, could
have avoided cursing his folly for coming hither. How
in this difKcult march I regretted my former easy
circumstances — the soft repose of my too easy chair in
Madrid ! The man who first said that travelling was
a fool's paradise must certainly have been inspired by
the experiences of a similar day to this.
Another halt was fixed at Msuwa that we and our
animals might recuperate. The chief of the village, a
white man in everything but color, sent me and mine
the fattest broad-tailed sheep of his flock, with five
measures of matama grain. The mutton was excellent,
unapproachable. For his timely and needful present
I gave him two doti, and amused him with an exhibi-
tion of the wonderful mechanism of the Winchester
rifle, and my breechloading revolvers.
He and his people were intelligent enough to com-
prehend the utility of these weapons at an emergency,
and illustrated in expressive pantomime the powers
they possessed against numbers of peoj)le armed only
with spears and bows, by extending their arms with
an imaginary gun and describing a clear circle.
" Verily," said they, *' the Wasungu are far wiser
than the Washensi. AVhat heads they have! What
wonderful things they make ! Look at their tents,
their guns, their time-pieces, their clothes, and that
little rolling thing (the cart) which carries more than
five men, — que I"
104
HOW I FOUND LIVINOSTONE.
On the lOth, recovered from the excessive strain of
the last march, my caravan marched out of Msuwa,
accompanied by the hospitable villagers as far as their
stake defence, receiving their unanimous " quaharys."
Outside the village the march promised to be less
arduous than between Imbiki and Msuwa. After
crossing a beautiful little plain intersected by a dry
gully or mtoni, the route led by a few cultivated
fields, where the tillers greeted us with one grand
unwinking stare, as if fascinated.
Soon after we met one of those sights common in
this part of the world, to wit, a chained slave-gang,
bound east. The slaves did not appear to be in any
way down-hearted ; on the contrary, they seemed imbued
with the philosophic jollity of the jolly servant of
Martin Chuzzlewit. Were it not for their chains, it
would have been difficult to discover master from
slave ; the physiognomic traits were alike — the mild
benignity with which we were regarded was equally
visible on all faces. The chains were ponderous, they
might have held elephants captive ; but as the slaves
carried nothing but themselves, their weight could not
have been insupportable.
The jungle was scant on this march, and though in
some places the packs met with accidents, they were
not such as seriously to retard progress. By 10 a.m.
we were in camp in the midst of an imposing view of
green sward and forest domed by a cloudless sky. We
had again pitched our camp ift the wilderness, and, as
is the custom of caravans, fired two shots to warn
any Washensi having grain to sell, that we were williug
to trade.
Our next halting-place was Kisemo, distant but eleven
miles from Msuwa, a village situated in a populous dis-
Apeil, 1871.] THBOUQH UKWEBE, ETC., TO UaEaUEEA 105
trict, having in its vicinity no less than five other
villages, each fortified by stakes and thorny abattis,
with as much fierce independence as if their petty lords
were so many Percys and Douglases. Each topped a
ridge, or a low hummock, with an assumption of defiance
of the cock-on-its-own-dunghill type. Between these
humble eminences and low ridges of land, wind narrow
vales which are favored with the cultivation of matama
and Indian corn. Behind the village flows the Unger-
engeri River, an impetuous Tramontana during the
Masika season, capable of overflowing its steep banks,
but in the dry season it subsides into its proper status,
which is that of a small stream of very clear sweet
water. Its course from Kisemo is south-west, then
easterly ; it is the main feeder of the Kingani River.
The belles of Kisemo, of gigantic posterioral propor-
tions, are noted for their vanity in brass wire, which is
wound in spiral rings round their wrists and ancles,
and the varieties of style which their hispid heads
exhibit ; while their poor lords, obliged to be contented
with dingy torn clouts and split ears, show what wide
sway Asmodeus holds over this terrestrial sphere —
for it must have been an unhappy time when the
hard-besieged husbands finally gave way before their
hotly-pressing spouses. Besides these brassy ornaments
on their extremities, and the various hair-dressing styles,
the women of Kisemo frequently wear lengthy necklaces
which run in rivers of colors down their black bodies.
But a more comical picture is seldom presented than
that of one of these higlily-dressed females with the
magnificent development already noted, engaged in the
homely and necessary task of grinding corn for herself
and liunily. The grinding ai)paratus consists of two
portions : one, a thick pole of hard wood about six feet
106
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
long, answering for a pestle ; the other, a capacious
wooden mortar, three feet in height. Swaying with
the pestle as it rises and falls the pectoral and pos-
terioral exuberances alternate to her strokes in the very
WOMAN GRINDING CORN.
drollest rhythm ; so strongly marked that I feared for
the walls of the hut before which I saw the corn-
pounding going on.
While engaged in setting his tent, Shaw was obliged
to move a small flat stone, to drive a peg into the
ground. The village chief, who saw him do it, rushed
up in a breathless fashion, and replaced the stone
instantly, then stood on it in an impressive manner,
indicative of the great importance attached to that
stone and location. Bombay seeing Shaw standing in
silent wonder at the act, volunteered to ask the chief
wliat was the mattei*. The Sheikli solemnly answered,
with a finger pointing downward, " Uganga !" Where-'
April, 1871.] THEOUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUBEA. 107
upon I implored him to let me see what was under the
stone. With a graciousness quite affecting he complied.
My curiosity was gratified with the siglit of a small
whittled stick, which pinned fast to the ground an
insect, the cause of a miscarriage to a young female
of the village.
During the afternoon, Uledi and Ferajji, who had
been despatched after the truant Khamisi, returned with
him and all the missing articles. Khamisi, soon after
leaving the road and plunging into the jungle, where
he was mentally triumphing in his booty, was met by
some of the plundering Washensi, who are always on
the qui vive for stragglers, and unceremoniously talcen
to their village in the woods, and bound to a tree
preparatory to being 'killed. Khamisi said that he
asked them why they tied him up, to which they
answered, that they were about to kill him, because he
.was a Mgwana, whom they were accustomed to kill as
soon as they were caught. But Uledi and Ferajji shortly
after coming upon the scene, both well armed, put an
end to the debates upon Khamisi 's fate, by claiming
him as an absconding pagazi from the Musungu's camp,
as well as all the articles he possessed at the time of
capture. The robbers did not dispute the claim for the
pagazi, goats, tent, or any other valuable found with
him, but intimated that they deserved a reward for
apprehending him. The demand being considered just,
a reward to the extent of two doti and a fundo or ten
necklaces of beads was given.
Khamisi, for his desertion and attempted robbery,
could not be pardoned without first suffering ])unish-
ment. He had asked at BaganiQyo, before enlisting in
my service, an advance of $5 in money, and had
received it ; and a load of Bubu beady, no heavier
108
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
than a pagazi's load, had been given him to carry ; he
had, therefore, no excuse for desertion. Lest I should
overstep prudence, however, in punishing him, I con-
vened a court of eight pagazis and four soldiers to sit in
judgment, and asked them to give me their decision as
to what should he done. Their unanimous verdict was
that he was guilty of a crime almost unknown among
the Wanyamwezi pagazis, and as it was likely to give
bad repute to the Wanyamwezi carriers, they therefore
sentenced him to be flogged with the " Great Master's "
donkey whip. I then ordered him to be bound, and
considering that by his act the pagazis Jiad suffered in
name, the soldiers, in the master's estimation, as efficient
guards, Shaw in being reprimanded by me for not
looking better after the stragglers, I ordered that each
of tlie pagazis and soldiers and Shaw should punish
him with one blow each, which was accordingly done,
to poor Khamisi's crying sorrow.
Before night arrived a small caravan of Wanguana,
who brought with them a long letter from the kind-
hearted American Consul at Zanzibar, as well as a file
of late " Heralds," latest date of which was February 4.
Among other gratifying intelligence found in them
concerning the doings of Congress and the New York
Legislature, and the revelations of startling crimes in
America, was an account of President Grant's second
levee, in which Jenkins described with laboured ver-
bosity the toilets of the ladies who attended this notable
rece})tion ; how a lavender ostrich plume waved among
the lovely grey curls of Mrs. ; how diamonds
finished the magnificent toilet of Mjie. , that lady
who presented such an imposnig appearance ; how
Mrs. had an overskirt with ruchings of crimson
satin ; how Mrs. radiated a blaze of light from
Afeil, 1871.] TRROUan UKWEkE, ETC., TO USEGUEEA. 109
her diamonds, as slie moved along in royal purple
satin ; and how the President, with the deep manly
voice and the pair of searching grey eyes, was sacri-
ficing himself for the sovereign people on this occasion
of his second levee ; and much else of the same
adulatory tenor.
Looking up from this refreshing reading, I beheld
my tent door crowded with the dark-skinned bodies of
Kisemo's daughters, who had become lost in vain en-
deavours to penetrate the mystery of those long sheets
of paper over which I had been bending so long. So
sudden and vast was the contrast between what my friend
Jenkins had been describing, and this most real sight
visible to my naked eyes, that it required a strong effort
of mind and memory to recall what such grandly-dressed
ladies were like, to decide where lay the difference
between a " blonde beauty with a mass of glittering,
golden hair, with eyes which vied with the lustre of
her diamonds," and one of these plump black girls of
twelve or thirteen, ripening into womanhood, with a
cock's-comb of woolly hair on the top of her head,
with the redundant luxuriance behind veiled but by two
yards of old sheeting, with 3 lbs. of brass wire ornainent
on each lirlib, and streams of beads round her neck ;
one out of the many who were attending my levee in
the natural glory and beauty of nakedness. But indeed
and indeed there is a vast difference between my court
and tliat of the President, which has such* an able
Jenkins for its reporter !
On the 12th the caravan reached Mussoudi, on the
Ungercngeri river. Happily for our patient donkeys
this march was free from all the annoying trouhles of
the jungle. Happily for oin-selves also, for we had no
more the care of the packs and the anxiety aijout
110
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
arriving at camp before niglit. The packs once put
firmly on the backs of our good donkeys, they marched
into camp — the road being excellent- — without a single
displacement or cause for one impatient word. If
the road to Unyanyembe were all like this I should
consider it as comfortable as crossing over to Staten
Island for a Sunday holiday, or riding in the horse-
cars to Central Park. Take away the gravelled paths,
the lakes and ponds, the museums within, the trellised
arbors, the kiosk, the uniformed policemen and well-
dressed visitors, — in short, all particulars and evidences
of the presence of ripe civilization, and Central Park
thus denuded, with only its refreshing lawns, gentle
hollows, and grove-clad ridges, would present, to those
who could imagine the New York park in this state, a
not unfaithful image of the country which opened
before us soon after leaving Kisemo. This beautiful
prospect, glorious in its wild nature, fragrant with its
numerous flowers and variety of sweetly-smelling
shrubs, among which I recognised the wild sage, the
indigo plant, &c., terminated at the foot of Kira Peak
and sister cones, which mark the boundaries between
Udoe and Ukami, yet distant twenty miles. Those
distant mountains formed a not unfit background to
this magnificent picture of open plain, forest patches,
and slojiing lawns — there was enough of picturcsque-
ness and sublimity in the blue mountains to render it
one complete whole.
When drawing near the valley of Ungerengcri,
granite knobs and protuberances of dazzling quartz
showed their heads above the reddish soil. Descending
the ridge where these rocks were prominent, we found
ourselves in the sable loaui deposit of the Ungerengcri,
and in llie midst of teeming fields of sugar-cane and
April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. Ill
matama, Indian corn, muliogo, and gardens of currj,
egg, and cucumber plants. On the banks of the Un-
gerengeri flourished the banana, and overtopping it by
seventy feet and more shot up the stately mparamusi,
the rival in beauty of the Persian chenar and Abyssinian
plane. Its trunk is straight and comely enough for
the mainmast of a first-class frigate, while its ex-
panding crown of leafage is distinguished from all
others by its density and vivid greenness. There ^were
a score of varieties of the larger kind of trees whose
far-extending branches embraced across the narrow but
swift river. The depressions of the valley and the
immediate neighbourhood of the river were choked
with young forests of tiger-grass and stiff reeds.
Mussoudi is situated on a higher elevation than the
average level of the village, and consequently looks
^down upon its neighbours, which number a hundred
and more. It is the western extremity of Ukwere. On
the western bank of the Ungerengeri the territory of
the "Wakami commences. We had to Imlt one day at
Mussoudi because the poverty of the people prevented
us from procuring the needful amoinit of grain. The
cause of this scantiness in such a fertile and populous
valley was, that the numerous caravans which had
preceded us had drawn heavily for their stores for the
up-marches.
On the 14th we crossed the Ungerengeri, which here
flows southerly to the southern extremity of the valley,
where it bends easterly as far as Kisemo. After crossing
the river here, fordable at all times and only twenty
yards in breadth, we had another mile of the valley
with its excessivly moist soil and rank growth of grass.
It then ascended into a higher elevation, and led through
a forest of mparamusi, tamarind, tamarisk, acacia, and
112
JIOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the blooming mimosa. This ascent was continued for
two hours, when we stood upon the spine of the largest
ridge, where we could obtain free views of the wooded
plain below and the distant ridges of Kisemo which we
had but lately left. A descent of a few hundred feet
terminated in a deep but dry mtoni with a sandy bed,
on the other side of which we had to regain the eleva-
tion we had lost, and a similar country opened into
view .until we found a newly-made boma with well-
built huts of grass near a pool of water, which we at
once occupied as a halting-place for the night. The
cart gave us considerable trouble ; not even our strongest
donke}', though it carried with ease on its back 196 lbs.,
could draw the cart with a load of only 225 lbs. weight.
Early on the morning of the 15th we broke camp
and started for Mikeseh, By 8.30 a.m. we were as-
cending the southern face of the Kira Peak. When »
we had gained the height of two hundred feet above the
level of the surrounding country, we were gratified
with a magnificent view of a land whose soil knows no
Sabbath, which, had Professor Malthus himself but
seen, he had never penned that foolish pamphlet of his
about legislating for the prevention of early marriages,
and raved like " Adversity Hume " about over-crowded
populations and certain ruin to England. If there are too
many English-speaking people in any one place I have
as much laith in them as the far-seeing editor of ' Noctes
Ambrosianae ' had in " Brother Jonathan," and know
that their stout elbows will make room somewhere, let
the weal or woe of those who withstand them light
where it may. There are plenty of Hengists and
Horsas, Capt. John Smiths, and Pilgrim Fathers among
the Anglo-Saxon race yet, and when America is filled
up with their descendants, who shall say that Africa,
April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 113
and especially this glorious part of it, shall not be their
next resting-place"? s
After travelling the spine of a ridge abutting against
the southern slope of Kira we again descended into the
little valley of Kiwrima, the first settlement we meet
in Udoe, where there is always an abundant supply of
water. Two miles west of Kiwrima is Mikiseh.
On the 16th we reached Ulagalla after a few hours'
march. Ulagalla is the name of a district, or a portion
of a district, lying between the mountains of Uruguru
which bound it southerly, and the mountains of Udoe
lying northerly and parallel with them, and but ten
miles apart. The principal part of the basin thus
formed is called Ulagalla.
Muhalleh .is the next settlement, and here we found
ourselves in the territory of the Waseguhha. On this
march we were hemmed in by mountains — on our left
by those of Uruguru, on our right by those of Udoe
and Useguhha — a most agreeable and welcome change
to us after the long miles of monotonous level we had
hitherto seen. When tired of looking into the depths
of the forest that still ran on either side of the road, we
had but to look up to the mountain's base, to note
its strange trees, its plants and vari colored flowers,
we had but to raise our heads to vary this pleasant
occupation by observing the lengthy and sinuous spine
of the mountains, and mentally report upon their out-
line, their spurs, their projections and ravines, their
bulging rocks and deep clefts, and, above all, the dark
green woods clothing them from summit to base. And
when our attention was not required for the mundane
task of regarding the donkeys' packs, or the pace of
the cautious-stepping pagazis, it was gratifying to watch
the vapors pkiy about the mountain summits-^ to see
I
114
now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
them fold into fleecy crowns and fantastic clusters,
dissolve, gatLer togetLer into a pall tliat threatened
rain, and sail away again before the brightening sun.
At Muhalleli was tlie fourth caravan under Maganga
with three more sick men, who turned with eager eyes
to myself, " the dispenser of medicine," as I approached.
Salvos of small arms greeted me, and a present of rice
and ears of Indian corn for roasting were awaiting my
acceptance; but, as I told Maganga, I would have pre-
ferred to hear that his party were eight or ten marches
ahead. At this camp, also, we met Salim bin Rashid,
bound eastward, with a huge caravan carrying three
hundred ivory tusks. This good Arab, besides welcom-
ing the new-comer with a present of rice, gave me news
of Livingstone. He had met the old traveller at Ujiji,
had lived in the next hut to him for two weeks,
described liim as looking old, with long grey mous-
taches and beard, just recovered from severe illness,
looking very wan ; when fully recovered Livingstone
intended to visit a country called Manyema by way of
Marungu.
The valley of the Ungerengeri with Muhalleli
exhibits w^onderful fertility. Its crops of matama
were of the tallest, and its Indian corn would rival
the best crops ever seen in the Arkansas bottoms. The
numerous mountain-fed streams rendered the great
depth of loam very sloppy, in consequence of which
several accidents occurred before we reached the camp,
such as wetting cloth, mildewing tea, watering sugar,
and rusting tools ; but prompt attention to these neces-
eary things saved us from considerable loss.
Thei'e was a slight difference noticed in the de-
meanour and bearing of the Waseguhha compared with
the Wadoe, Wakami, and Wakwere heretofore seen.
Apeil, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 115
There was none of that civility we had been until now
pleased to note : their express desire to barter was
accompanied with insolent hints that we ought to take
their produce at their own prices. If we remonstrated
they became angry ; retorting fiercely, impatient of
opposition, they flew into a passion, and were glib in
threats. This strange conduct, so opposite to that of
the calm and gentle Wakwere, may be excellently
illustrsfted by comparing the manner of the hot-headed
Greek with that of the cool and collected German.
Necessity compelled us to purchase eatables of them,
and, to the credit of the country and its productions be
it said, their honey had the peculiar flavour of that of
famed Hymettus.
Following the latitudinal valley of the Ungerengeri,
within two hours on the following morning we passed
close under the wall of the capital of Useguhha — Sira-
bamwenni. The first view of the walled town at the
western foot of the Uruguru mountains, with its fine
valley abundantly beautiful, watered by two rivers, and
several pellucid streams of water distilled by the dew
and cloud-enriched heights around, was one that we
did not anticipate to meet in Eastern Africa. In
Mazanderan, Persia, such a scene would have answered
our expectations, but here it was totally unexpected.
The town may contain a population of 3,000, having
about 1,000 houses; being so densely crowded perhaps
5,000 would more closely approximate. The houses in
the town are eminently African, but of the best type of
construction. The fortifications are on an Arabic Persic
model— combining Arab neatness with Persian plan.
Through a ride of 950 miles in Persia I never met a town
outside of the great cities better fortified than Simbam-
wenni. In Persia the fortifications were of mud, even
lie
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
those of Kasvin, Teheran, Ispahan, and Shiraz ; those of
Simbamwenni are of stone, pierced with two rows of
loopholes for musketry. The area of the town is about
half a square mile, its plan being quadrangular. "Well-
built towers of stone guard each corner ; four gates, one
facing each cardinal point, and set half-way between the
several towers, permit ingress and egress for its inhabi-
tants. The gates are closed with solid square doors made
of African teak, and carved with the infinitesimally
fine and complicated devices of the Arabs, from which I
suspect that the doors were made either at Zanzibar or
on the coast, and conveyed to Simbamwenni plank by
plank ; yet as there is much communication between
Bagamoyo and Simbamwenni, it is just possible that
native artisans are the authors of this ornate workman-
ship, as several doors chiselled and carved in the same
manner, though not quite so elaborately, were visible
in the largest houses. The palace of the Sultan is after
the style of those on the coast, with long sloping roof,
wide eaves, and veranda in front.
The Sultana is the eldest daughter of the fiimous
Kisabengo, a name infamous throughout the neigh-
bouring countries of Udoe, Ukami, Ukwere, Kingaru,
Ukwenni, and Kiranga-Wanna, for his kidnapping pro-
pensities. Kisabengo was another Theodore on a small
scale. Sprung from humble ancestry, he acquired dis-
tinction for his personal strength, his powers of harangue,
and his amusing and versatile address, by which he
gained great ascendency over fugitive slaves, and was
chosen a leader among them. Fleeing from justice which
awaited him at the bands of the Zanzibar Sultan, he
arrived in Ukami, which extended at that time from
Ukwere to Usagarn, and here he commenced a career of
conquest, the result of which was the cession by the
April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUHHA. 117
"Wakami of an immense tract of fertile country, in
tlie valley of the Ungerengeri. On its most desirable
site, with the river flowing close under the walls, he
built his capital, and called it Simbamwenni, which
means " The Lion," or the strongest city. In old age
the successful robber and kidnapper changed his name
of Kisabengo, which had gained such a notoriety,
to Simbamwenni, after his town ; and wlien dying,
after desiring that his eldest daughter should succeed
him, he bestowed the name of the town upon her also,
v^^hich name of Simbamwenni the Sultana now retains
and is known by.
While crossing a rapid strearp, which, as I said
before, flowed close to the walls, the inhabitants of
Simbamwenni had a fine chance of gratifying their
curiosity of seeing the " Great Musungu," whose several
caravans had preceded him, and who unpardonably, be-
cause unlicensed, had spread a report of his great wealth
and power. I was thus the object of a universal stare.
At one time on the banks there were considerably over
a thousand natives going through the several tenses and
moods of the verb " to stare," or exhibiting every phase
of the substantive, viz. — the stare peremptory, insolent,
sly, cunning, modest, and casual. The warriors of the
Sultana, holding in one hand the spear, the bow, and ^
sheaf or musket, embraced with the other their respec-
tive friends, like so many models of Nisus and Euryalus,
Theseus and Pirithous, Damon and Phintias, or Achilles
and Patroclus, to whom they confidentially related their
divers opinions upon my dress and color. The words
" Musungu kuba " had as much charm for these
people as the music of the Pied Piper had for the rats
of Ilamclin, since they served to draw from within
the walls across their stream so large a portion of
118
ffOW I FOUND LIVING STOXE.
the population ; and when I continued the journey
to the Ungerengeri, distant four miles, I feared that the
Hamelin catastrophe might have to be repeated before
I could rid myself of them. But fortunately for my
peace of mind, they J&nally proved vincible under the
hot sun, and the distance we had to go to camp.
As we were obliged to overhaul the luggage, and
repair saddles, as well as to doctor a few of the
animals, whose backs had by this time become very
sore, I determined to halt here two davs. Provisions
were very plentiful also at Simbamwenni, though com-
paratively dear.
On opening the Makanda-bound luggage, we found
it to be much better than we had anticipated,
considering the series of thorough drenchings it had
lately stood ; it being now the full height of the Masika
season. But several valuable things, such as cases
of ammunition and gun-boxes and tea, had suffered, all
of which I ascribed to Shaw's thoughtlessness in
driving the donkeys across gulleys breast deep with
water, when common prudence could have told him to
unload. In calling Shaw to my tent to exhibit to him
tine loss, my gentleman flew into a passion, and charged
me with requiring from him too much work, with
4)eing too fastidious, and impossible to please, with much
else of the same tenor, ending his stormy reply with
stating his intention to quit my service, and to return
by the first caravan we should meet. Responding, I
informed him that, as he had proved himself inefficient
and careless, loving his ease better than work, I would
oppose no obstacle to his departure ; that he might
depart that moment if he pleased, but must go without
his personal baggage, which I should retain in lieu of
the money advanced to bim at Zanzibar. This perti-
April, 1871.] THROUGH UKWERE, ETC., TO USEGUEEA. 119
nent announcement of my intention restored Shaw to
his proper equilibrium, which he had somewhat lost
during his wrathful mood ; and before many hours had
elapsed he was purposely busy on' my concerns, and
peace was restored.
On the second day I was, for the first time, made
aware that my acclimatization in the ague-breeding
swamps of Arkansas was powerless against the Mu-
kunguru of East Africa. The premonitory symptoms
of the African type were felt in my system at 10 a.m.
First, general lassitude prevailed, with a disposition to
drowsiness ; secondly, came the spinal ache which, com-
mencing from the loins, ascended the vertebrte, and
extended around the ribs, until it reached the shoulders,
where it settled into a weary pain ; thirdly, came a chil-
liness over the whole body, which was quickly followed
by a heavy head, swimming eyes, and throbbing temples,
with vague vision, which distorted and transformed all
objects of sight. This lasted until 10 p.m., and the
Mukunguru left mc, much prostrated in strength.
The remedy, applied for three mornings in succession
after the attack, was such as my experience in Arkansas
had taught me was the most powerful corrective, viz.,
a quantum of fifteen grains of quinine, taken in three
doses of five grains each, every other hour from dawn
to meridian — the first dose to be taken immediatelv
after the first efiect of the purging medicine taken at
bed-time the night previous. I may add that this
treatment was perfectly successful in my case, and in
all others which occurred in my camp. After the
Mukunguru had declared itself, there was no fear, witli
sucli a treatment of it, of a second attack, until at least
some days afterwards.
On the third day the camp was visited by the ambas-
120
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
sadors of Her Highness the Sultana of Simhamwenni,
who came as her representatives to receive the tribute
which she regards herself as powerful enough to enforce.
But they, as well as Madame Simhamwenni, were in-
formed, that as we knew it was their custom to charge
owners of caravans but one tribute, and as they remem-
bered the Musungu (Farquhar) had paid already, it
was not fair that I should have to pay again. The
ambassadors replied with a "Ngema" (very well), and
promised to carry my answer back to their mistress.
Though it was by no means " very well in fact," as it
will be seen in a subsequent chapter how the female
Simhamwenni took advantage of an adverse fortune
which befell me to pay herself. With this I close the
chapter of incidents experienced during our transit
across the maritime region.
PORTRAIT OF SHAW AND FARQUHAR.
CHAPTER y.
TO UGOGO.
TJSEGUHHA.
h.
m.
h.
m.
Ungercngeri Rivei* to —
Rohenneko to —
2
0
Camp on mountain.
3
30
Camp in plain.
4
10
Kiora ....
3
40
Makata Kivor .
2
30
Camp on river .
4
50
Madete . . . .
2
30
USAOARA.
Lake Ugombo .
3
0
Camp west of Makata
0
5
Matamombo
6
0
Camp in plain.
4
30
Mpwapwa .
7
0
Camp ,, . .
2
0
Kisokwch .
2
0
Relionncko
3
15
Cliunyo . . . .
1
30
TiiR distance from Bnnrnmnyo to Simbamwonni we
found to he 119 miles, and was accomplislied in four-
teen marches. Rut these marches, owing to difiicuhies
arising from the Masika season, and more esjiccially to
the lagging of the fourth caravan under Mnganga,
extended to twenty-nine days, thus rendering our
i;>2
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
progress very slow indeed — hut a little more than four
miles a-day. I infer, from what I have seen of the tra-
velling, that had I not been encumbered by the sick
Wanyamwezi porters, I could have accomplished the
distance in sixteen days. For it was not the donkeys that
proved recreant to my confidence ; they, poor animals,
carrying a weight of 150 lbs. each, arrived at Simbam-
wenni in first-rate order ; but it was Maganga, com-
posed of greed and laziness, and his weakly-bodied, syphi-
litic tribe, who were ever falling sick. In dry weather
the number of marches might have been much reduced.
Of the half-dozen of Arabs or so who preceded this
Expedition along this route, two accomplished the
entire distance in eight days. From the brief descrip-
tions given of the country, as it day by day expanded
to our view, enough may be gleaned to give readers
a fair idea of it. But, casting a retrospective glance
away from Simbamwenni to distant Bagamoyo on the
coast, I know of one state in our country that might be
very well compared to this tract in fertility, in physical
contour, in its forests and bits of level prairie inclosed
by tall woods, in its cones, in its ridges and grand
undulations, verdure-clad — and that is Missouri. The
elevation of Simbamwenni cannot be much over 1,000
feet above the level, the rise of the land having been
gradual. It being the rainy season, about which so
many ominous statements were doled out to us by those
ignorant of the character of the country, we naturally
saw it under its worst aspect ; but, even in this adverse
phase of it, with all its depth of black mud, its excessive
dew, its dripping and chill grass, its density of rank
jungle, and its crouching fevers, I look back upon the
scene with pleasure, lor the wealth and prosperity it
promises to some civilized nation, which in some future
Apbil, 1871.]
TO UOOGO.
123
time will come and take possession of it. A railroad
from Bagamoyo to Simbamwenni might be constructed
with as much ease and rapidity as, and at f\ir less cost
than the Union Pacific Railway, whose rapid strides
day by day towards completion the world heard of and
admired. A residence in this part of Africa, after a
thorough system of drainage had been carried out,
would not be attended with any more discomfort than
generally follows upon the occupation of new land. The
temperature at this season during the day never exceeded
85° Fahrenheit. The nights were pleasant — too cold
without a pair of blankets for covering ; and, as far as
Simbamwenni, they were without that pest which is so
dreadful on the Nebraska a'tid Kansas prairies, the
mosquito. The only annoyances I know of that would
tell hard on the settler is the determined ferocity of
the. mabungu, or horse-fly, the chufwa, &c., already
described, which, until the dense forests and jungles
were cleared, would be certain to render the keeping
of domestic cattle unremuiierative.
Contrary to expectation the Expedition was not able
to start at the end of two days ; the third and the fourth
days were passed miserably enough in the desponding
valley of Ungerengeri. This river, small as it is in the
dry seasons, becomes of considerable volume and power
during tlie ^la.sikn, as we experienced to our sorrow.
It serves as a drain to a score of peaks and two long
ranges of mountains ; winding along their base, it is the
recipient of the cascades seen flashing during the few
intervals of sunlight, of all the nullahs and ravines
which render the lengthy frontage of the mountain
slopes so rugged and irregular, until it glides into the
valley of Simbamwenni a formidable body of water,
opposing a serious obstacle to caravans withourt means
124 , HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to build bridges ; added to wbicli was an incessant
downfall of rain — such a rain as shuts people in-doors
and renders them miserable and unamiable — a real
London rain — an eternal drizzle accompanied with mist
and fog. AVhen the sun shone it appeared but a pale
image of itself, and old pagazis, wise in their traditions
as old whaling captains, shook their heads ominously at
the dull spectre, and declared it was doubtful if the
rain would cease for three weeks yet. The site of the
caravan camp on the hither side of the Ungerengeri
was a hot-bed of malaria, unpleasant t© witness — an
abomination to memory. The filth of generations of
pagazis had gathered innumerable hosts of creeping
things. Armies of black, white, and red ants infest the
stricken soil ; centipedes, like worms, of every hue,
clamber over shrubs and plants ; hanging to the under-
growth are the honey-combed nests of yellow-headed
wasps with stings as harmful as scorpions ; enormous
beetles, as large as full-grown mice, roll dunghills over
the ground ; of all sorts, shapes, sizes, and hues are the
myriad-fold vermin with which the ground teems ; in
short, the richest entomological collection could not vie
in variety and numbers with the species which the four
walls of my tent enclosed from morning until nigbt.
On the fifth morning, or the 23rd April, the rain
gave us a few hours' respite, during wliich we managed
to wade through the Stygian quagmire reeking with
noisomencss to the inundated river-bank. The soldiers
commenced at 5 a.m. to convey the baggage across from
bank to bank over a bridge which was the most rustic
of the rustic kind. Only an ignorant African would
have been satisfied wiih its small utility as a means
to cross a deep and rapid body of water. Even for light-
footed Wanyamwezi pagazis it was anything but com-
Aprii., 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
125
fortable to traverse. Only a professional tight-rope
performer could have carried a load across with ease.
To travel over an African bridge requires, first, a long
leap from land to the limb of a tree (which may or may
not be covered by water), followed by a long jump
ashore. With 70 lbs. weight on his back, the carrier
finds it difficult enough. Sometimes he is assisted by
ropes extemporized from the long convolvuli which
hang from almost every tree, but not always, these
being deemed superfluities by the Washensi.
Fortunately the baggage was transferred without a
single accident, and though the torrent was strong, the
donkeys were dragged through the flood by vigorous
efforts and much objurgation without a casualty. This
performance of crossing the Ungerengeri occupied fully
five hours, though energy, abuse, and fury enough
were expended for an army.
Reloading and wringing our clothes dry, we set out
from the horril)lc neighbourhood of the river, with its
reek and filth, in a northerly direction, following a road
which led up to easy and level ground. Two obtruding
hills were thus avoided on our left, and after passing
them we had shut out the view of the hatefid valley.
I always found myself more comfortable and light-
hearted while travelling tlian when chafing and fretting
in camp at delays which no effort could avoid, and
consequently I fear tliat some things, while on a march,
may be tinted somewhat stronger than their appearance
or merit may properly warrant. But I tliouglit tliat
the view opening before us was much more agreeable
than the valley of Simbamwenni with all its indescrib-
able fertility. It was a series of glades opening one
after another between forest clumps of young trees,
hemmed in distantly by isolated peaks and scattered
126
EOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
mountains. Kow and again, as we crested low emi-
nences we caught siglit of the blue Usagara mountains,
bounding the horizon westerly and northerly, and looked
down upon a vast expanse of plain which lay between.
At the foot of the lengthy slope, well-watered by
bubbling springs and mountain rills, we found a com-
fortable kharabi with well-made huts, which the natives
call Simbo. It lies just two hours or five miles north-
west of the Ungerengeri crossing. The ground is
rocky, composed principally of quartzose detritus swept
down by the constant streams. In the neighbourhood
of these grow bamboo, the thickest of which was about
two and a half inches in diameter ; the " myorabo," a
very slmpely tree, with a clean trunk like an ash, the
" imbite," with large, fleshy leaves like the " mtamba,"
sycamore, plum-tree, the " ugaza," or tamarisk, and the
" mgungu," a tree containing several wide branches
with small leaves clustered together in a clump, and the
silk-cotton tree.
Though there are no villages or settlements in view
of Simbo Khanibi, there are several clustered within
the mountain folds, inhabited by Waseguhha somewhat
prone to dishonest acts and murder.
On the morning of the 24th, as we were about to
leave Simbo, au accident occurred which was the cause
of much anxiety to me for many days. Bunder Salaam,
a native of Malabar, employed as my cook, was caught
for the fifth time })i]fering the rations of my mess.
His confederate and bosom-friend Abdul Kader, sub-
cook, tailor, and supernumerary, and Selim the Arab
boy, were the informers and witnesses, and, accord-
ingly, after an impartial examination and forgive-
ness for the fourth time, Shaw was ordered to
administer to him one dozen lashes. The flogging was
April, 1871.]
TO UGOOO.
127
given to Lim over his clothes, and consequently was
not very severe, and hut reasonably adequate to the
offence ; hut the severest measure was his expulsion
from camp, he and his donkey and kit, with the
declaration that I would hear with no such incorrigible
thief. I did not mean that he should be really driven
away, and put at the mercy of every greedy Mshensi
he should meet, but I thought that a good scare would
have a good effect in amending his evil propensities.
But the cook took it in good earnest, and as soon as his
hands were released he rushed out from camp towards
the mountains without regarding hat, donkey, or pro-
perty. Bombay and Abdul Kader used "their lungs in
vain to recall tlie fugitive. Bunder Salaam would not
return, but, thinking that he might possibly do so, his
donkey, with his property, was tied to a tree near the
camp, while we proceeded on our march.
The long broad plain visible from the eminences
crossed between the Ungerengeri and Simbo was now
before us, and became known to sorrowful memory sub-
sequently, as the Makata Valley. The initial march was
from Simbo, its terminus at Rehenneko, at the base of
the Usagara mountains, six marches distant. The valley
commences with broad undulations, covered with young
forests of bamboo, which grow thickly along the
streams, the dwarf fan-palm, the stately Palmyra, and
the nigungu. These undulations soon become broken by
gulleys containing water, nourishing dense crops of cane
reeds and broad-bladed glass, and, emerging from this
district, wide savannahs covered with tall grass open
into view, with an isolated tree here and there agree-
ably breaking the monotony of the scene. The Makata
is a wilderness containing but one village of the
Waseguhha throughout its broad expanse. Venison,
128
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
consequently, abounds within the forest clumps, and
the kudu, hartebeest, antelope, and zebra may be seen at
early dawn emerging into the open savannahs to feed.
At night, the cyn-hy<'Bna prowls about with its hideous
clamour seeking for sleeping prey, man or beast.
The slushy mire of the savannahs rendered marching
a work of great difficulty; its tenacious hold of the
feet told terribly on men and animals. A ten-mile
march required ten hours, we were therefore compelled
to camp in the middle of this wilderness, and construct
a new khambi, a measure which was afterwards adopted
by half a dozen caravans.
The cart did not arrive until nearly midnight, and
with it, besides three or four broken-down pagazis,
came Bombay with the dolorous tale, that having put
his load — consisting of the property tent, one large
American axe, his two uniform coats, his shirts, beads
and cloth, powder, pistol and hatchet — on the ground,
to go and assist tlie cart out of a quagmire, he had
returned to the place where he had left it and could
not find it, that he believed that some thieving
Washensi, who al\\"ays lurk in the rear of caravans to
pick up stragglers, had decamped with it. Which
dismal tale told me at black midnight was not received
at all graciously, but rather with most wTathful words,
all of which the penitent captain received as his
proper due. Working myself into a fury, I enume-
rated his sins to him : he had lost a goat at Muhalleh,
he had permitted Khamisi to desert with valuable
property at Imbiki ; he had frequently shown culpable
negligence in not looking after the donkeys, permit-
ting them to be tied up at night wnthout seeing that
the}'' bad water, and in the mornings, when about to
march, he preferred to sleep until 7 o'clock, rather
«
April, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
129
than wake up early and saddle the donkeys, that we
might stai t at 6 o'clock ; he had shown of late great
love for the fire, cowering like a bloodless man before
it, torpid and apathetic ; he had now lost the property-
tent in the middle of the Masika season, by which
carelessness the cloth bales would rot and become
valueless; he had lost the axe which I should want
at lljiji to construct my boat ; he had lost a pistol and
hatchet, and a flaskful of the best powder ; and, finally,
had come to camp without the cook, when he well
knew that I never meant that the poor fellow should
be driven out by himself to be murdered. Considering
all these things, how utterly incompetent he was to
be captain, I would degrade him from his office and
appoint Mabruki Burton instead. Uledi, also (Grant's
valet), following the example of Bombay, instead of
being second captain, should give no orders to any
soldiers in future, but should himself obey those given
by Mabruki — the said Mabruki being worth a dozen
Bombays, and two dozen Uledis ; and so he was dis-
missed with orders to return at daylight to find the
tent, axe, pistol, powder, and hatchet.
The next morning the caravan, thoroughly fatigued
with the last day's exertions, was obliged to halt.
Bombay was despatched after the lost goods ; Kingaru,
Mabruki the Great, and Mabruki tlic Little were de-
spatched as far as Simbamwenni after the missing cook,
and on their return with him were to bring back three
doti-worth of grain, on which we were to subsist in the
wilderness.
Three days passed away and we were still at camp,
awaiting, with what patience we possessed, the return
of tlio soldiers sent after the foolish Hindi. In the
meantime provisions ran very low, no game could be
K
130
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
procured, the birds were so wild. Two days' shooting
procured but two potfulls of birds, consisting of grouse,
quail, and pigeons. Bombay returned unsuccessfully
from his search after the missing property, and suffered
deep disgrace.
On the fourth day I despatched Shaw with two more
soldiers, to see what had become of Kingaru and the
two Mabrukis. Towards night he returned completely
prostrated, with a violent attack of the Mukunguru, or
ague ; but bringing the missing soldiers, who were
thus left to report for themselves.
The summary of their report amounts to this : —
On leaving our camp they had marched quickly to
Simbo, which place they reached by 10 a.m. After
searching the neighbourhood of our late kharabi at
that place, for traces of Bunder Salaam, or of his
donkey and property, and finding none, they decided
to proceed straight to the Ungerengeri bridge, and
make inquiries of its proprietors concerning the
passengers who had crossed since the departure of the
Musungu. At the bridge they heard that a white
donke}^ such as had been seen with the Musungu,
crossed the river towards Simbamwenni ; but no
Hindi in Kisungu clothes had been seen. My three
dusky detectives were spurred to quicker motion by
this intelligence, believing without a doubt that the
cook had been murdered by those Washcnsi, who
were seen driving his donkey, with all the cook's
property on its back. At Simbamwenni they arrived
in short time, and to the wondering warriors at its
western gate, they breathlessly imparted the intelli-
gence that twp Washensi, who must have passed their
town driving a white donkey, had murdered a man
in Kisungu clothes, belonging to the Musungu. The
April, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
131
men of Simbamwenni conducted my messengers to
the Sultana, to whom they told their story. The
Sultana demanded of the watchmen of the towers if
they had seen the two "Washensi with the white
donkey. The watchmen answered in the aflSrmative ;
upon which she at once despatched twenty of her
musketeers in pursuit to Muhalleh, who returned before
night, bringing with them the two Washensi, and the
donkey with the cook's entire kit. The Sultana, who
is evidently possessed of her father's energy, with all
his lust for wealth, had my messengers, the two
Washensi, the cook's donkey and property, at once
brought before her. The two Washensi were ques-
tioned as to how they became jiossessed of the donkey,
and such a store of Kisungu clothes, cloth, and beads ;
to wliich they answered that they had found the
donkey tied to a tree, with the property on the ground
close to it ; that seeing no owner or claimant anywhere
in the neighbourhood, they thought they had a right
to it, and accordingly had taken it with them. My
soldiers were then asked if they recognized the donkey
and property, to which question they unhesitatingly made
answer that they did. They further informed Her
Highness that they were not only sent after the donkey
and property, but also after the owner, who had deserted
their master's service ; they would like to know fi om
the Washensi what they had done with him. Her
Highness was also anxious to know what the Washensi
had done with the Hindi, and accordingly, in order to
elicit the fact, she charged them with murdering liim;
and informed them, she but wished to know what they
had done with the body. Tlie Washensi decLared niost
earnestly that they had spoken the truth, that they had
never seen any such man a.s described ; and if the
K 2
132
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Sultana desired it thej would swear to such a state-
ment. Her Highness did not wish them to swear to
what she helieved in her heart to be a lie; but she
would chain them, and send them in charge of a cara-
van to Zanzibar to Sjed Burghash, who would know
what to do with them. Then turning to my soldiers,
she demanded to know why the Musungu had not paid
the tribute for which she had sent her chiefs. The
soldiers could not answer, knowing nothing of such
concerns of their master. The heiress of Kisabengo,
true to the character of her robber sire, then informed
mv trembling men, that as the Musungu had not paid
the tribute, she would now take it ; their guns should
be taken from them, together with that of the cook —
the cloth and beads found on the donkey she would also
take, the Hindi's personal clothes her chiefs should
retain ; while they themselves should be chained until
the Musungu himself should return to take them by
force. And as she threatened, so was it done. For
sixteen hours my soldiers were in chains in the market-
place, exposed to the taunts of the servile populace.
It chanced the next day, however, that Sheikh Thani,
whom I had met at Kingaru, and had since passed by
five days, had arrived at SimbamwennJ, and proceeding
to the town to purchase provisions for the crossing of
the Makata wilderness, saw my men in chains, and at
once recognized them as being in my employ. After
hearing their story, the good-hearted Sheikh sought the
presence of the Sultana, and informed her that she was
doing very wrong — a wrong that could terminate only
in blood. " The Musungu is strong," he said, " very
strong ; he has got two guns which shoot forty times
without stopping, carrying bullets half an hour's
distance ; he has got several guns which carry bullets
Apbil, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
133
that burst, and tear a man in pieces. He could go to
the top of that mountain, and could kill every man,
woman, and child in the town, before one of your
soldiers could reach the top. The road will then be
stopped, Syed Burghash will march against your
country, the Wadoe and Wakami will come and take
revenge on wbat is left ; and the place that your ftither
made so strong will 'know the "Waseguhha no more.
Set free the Musungu's soldiers ; give them their food,
and grain for the Musungu ; return the guns to the
men and let them go ; for the white man may even
now be on his way here."
The exaggerated report of my power and dread pic-
ture sketched by the Arab Sheikh produced good effect,
inasmuch as Kingaru and the Mabrukis were at once
released from durance, furnished with food sufficient to
last our caravan four dnys, and one gun, witli its ac-
coutrements and stock of bullets and powder, was
returned, as well as the cook's donkey, with a pair
of spectacles, a book in Malabar print, and an old hat
which belonged to one whom we all now believed to be
dead. The Sheikh took charge of the soldiers as far as
Simbo ; and it was in his caujp, partaking largely of
rice and ghee, that Shaw found them, and the same
bountiful hospitality was extended to him and his
companions.
I heard this long story in much astonishment, with
my bosom surging with the various and conflicting
emotions it evoked, it was so utterly diflerent in its
entirety from wlmt I had anticipated. First, I believed
the cook would be found, and had not the least idea
that any dire fiitc had befallen him ; then there were
keen regrets that I had punished him, and mental vows
that, whatever member of niy caravan robbed mc of
134
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
any valuable, I would not drive him out to perish at
the hands of such ruthless assassins. Secondly, there
was much astonishment at the conduct of the Amazon
Simbamwenni, for it was contrary to custom that she
should demand two tributes from one owner ; and had
it not been the custom, the four days I encamped on the
Ungerengeri allowed sufficient time to rectify any error
I may have committed by refusal to render tribute ;
and I surely would not have imperilled the safety of
my caravan liad her ambassadors returned to reiterate
the demand. And this feeling was succeeded by hot
indignation at the base robbery of my guns, which
might have prompted me to retaliate on the suburbs of
the town had I been nearer to Simbamwenni ; but the
delay of four days, which the search after the cook had
occasioned, cooled my ire to such an extent, that I began
to feel thankful tluit my ill luck was no worse. Thirdly,
there was much amusement at the well-intentioned exag-
gerations of Sheikh Thaui, and the woeful tale of the
three soldiers. That night I wrote a full account of
what transpired, to be despatched to the American
Consul by the first caravan bound eastward, so that
Syed Burghash might know both sides of the story
which the unaccountable disappearance of the cook had
created.
With most thankful hearts did we quit our camp,
where so much anxiety of mind and fretfulness had
been suffered, not heeding a furious rain, which, after
drenching us all night, miglit have somewhat damped
our ardor for the march under other circumstances. The
road for the first mile led over reddish ground, and was
drained by gentle slopes falling east and west ; but,
leaving the cover of the friendly woods, on whose
eastern margin we had been delayed so long, we
Apbil, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
135
emerged into one of the savannahs, whose soil during
the rains is as soft as slush and tenacious as thick
mortar, where we were all threatened with the fate of
the famous Arkansas traveller, who had sunk so low in
one of the many quagmires in Arkansas county, that
nothing but his tall stove-pipe hat was left visible.
Shaw was sick, and the whole duty of driving the
foundering caravan devolved upon myself. The AYan-
yamwezi donkeys stuck in the mire as if they were
rooted to it. As fast as one was flogged from his stub-
born position, prone to the depths fell another, giving
me a Sisyphean labour, which was maddening under
pelting rain, assisted by such men as Bombay and Uledi,
who could not for a whole skin's sake stomach the storm
and mire. Two hours of such a task enabled me to
drag my caravan over a savannah one mile and a half
broad ; and barely had I finished congratulating myself
over my success before I was halted by a deep ditch,
which, filled with rain-water from the inundated savan-
nahs, had become a considerable stream, breast-deep,
flowing swiftly into the Makata. Donkeys had to be
unloaded, led through a torrent, and loaded again on the
other bank — an operation which consumed a full hour.
' Presently, after straggling through a wood clump,
barring our progress was another stream, swollen into
a river. The bridge being swept away, we were obliged
to swim and float our baggage over, which delayed us
two hours more. Leaving this second river-bank, we
splashed, waded, occasionally half-swimming, and reeled
through mire, water-dripping grass and matania stalks,
along the left bank of the Makata proper, uTitil farther
progress was effectually prevented for that da}' by a
deep bend of the river, which we should be obliged to
cross the next day.
136
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Though but six miles were traversed during that
miserable day, the march occupied ten hours. •
Half dead with fatigue, I yet could feel thankful that
it was not accompanied by fever, which it seemed a
miracle to avoid; for if ever a district was cursed
with the ague, the Makata wilderness ranks foremost of
those afflicted. Surely the sight of the dripping woods
enveloped in opaque mist, of the inundated country
with lengthy swathes of tiger-grass laid low by the
turbid flood, of mounds of decaying trees and canes, of
the swollen river and the weeping sky, was enough
to engender the Mukunguru ! The well-used khambi,
and the heaps of filth surrounding it, were enough to
create a cholera !
The ]\Iakata, a river whose breadth during" the dry
season is but forty feet, in the Masika season assumes
the breadth, depth,' and force of an important river.
Should it happen to be an unusually rainy season,
it inundates the great plain which stretches on either
side, and converts it into a great lake. It is the main
feeder of the Wami river, which empties into the sea
between the ports of Saadani and Whnide. About
ten miles north-east of the Makata crossing, the Great
Makata, the Little Makata, a nameless creek, and
the Rudewa river unite ; and the river thus formed
becomes known as the Wami, Throughout Usagara
the Wami is known as the MukondokM^a. • Three of
these streams take their rise from the crescent-like
Usagara range, which bounds tlie Makata plain south
and south-westerly ; while the Rudewa rises in the
northern horn of the same range.
So swift Avas tlie flow of the Makata, and so much
did its unsteady bridge, half buried in the water,
imjjeril the safety of the property, that its transfer
April, 1871.] TO UGOGO. 187
from Lank to bank occupied fully five hours. No
sooner had we landed every article on the other side,
undamaged by the water, than the rain poured down
in torrents that drenched them all, as if they had
been dragged through the river. To proceed through
the swamp which an hour's rain had formed was
utterly out of the question. We were accordingly
compelled to camp in a place where every hour fur-
nished its quota of annoyance. One of the "Wauguana
soldiers engaged at Bagamoyo, named Kingaru, im-
proved an opportunity to desert with another Mgwana's
kit. My two detectives, Uledi (Grant's valet), and
Sarraian, were immediately despatched in pursuit, both
being armed with American breech-loaders. They went
about their task with an adroitness and celerity which
augured well for their success. In an hour they
returned with the runaway, having found him hidden
in the house of a Mseguhha chief called Kigondo, who
lived about a mile from the eastern bank of the river,
and who had accompanied Uledi and Sarmian to
receive his reward, and render an account of the
incident.
Kigondo said, when he had been seated, " I saw
this man carrying a bundle, and running hard, by
which I knew that he was deserting you. We (my'
wife and I) were sitting in our little watch-hut watch-
ing our corn ; and, as the road runs close by, this man
was obliged to come close to us. We called to him
when he was near, saying, * Master, where are you
going so fast? Are you deserting the Musuiigu, for
we know you belong to him, since you bought from
us yesterday two doti worth of meat?' ' Ye.s,' said
he, ' I am running away ; I want to get to Sim-
bamweuni. If you will take me there, I will give you
138
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
a doti.' We said to him then, ' Come into our house,
and we will talk it over quietly.' "When he was in our
house in an inner room, we locked him up, and went
out again to the watch ; buj; leaving word with the
women to look out for him. We knew that, if you
wanted him, you would send askari (soldiers) after him.
We had but lit our pipes when we saw two men armed
with short guns, and having no loads, coming along
the road, looking now and then on the ground, as if
they were looking at footmarks. We knew them to be
the men we were expecting ; so we hailed them, and
said, ' Masters, what arc ye looking for ?' They said,
* We are looking for a man who has deserted our master.
Here are his footsteps. If you have been long in your
hut you must have seen him. Can you tell us where
he is ?' We said, ' Yes ; he is in our house. If you
will come with us, we will give- him up to you ; but
your master must give us something for catching
him.' "
As Kigondo had promised to deliver Kingaru up, there
remained nothing further to do for Uledi and Sarmian
but to take charge of their prisoner, and bring him
and his captors to my camp on the western bank of
the Makata. Kingaru received two dozen laslies, and
was chained ; his captor a doti, besides five khete of red
coral beads for his wife.
That down-pour of rain which visited us the day
we crossed the Makata proved the last of the
Masika season. As the first rainfall which we had
experienced occurred on the 23rd March, and the last
on the 30th April, its duration was thirty-nine days.
The seers of Bagamoyo bad delivered their vaticina-
tions concerning this same Masika with solemnity.
" For forty days," said they, *' rain would fall inces-
Mat, 1871.]
TO uaoao.
139
saatly ;" whereas we had but experienced eighteen
days' rain. Nevertheless, we were glad that it was
over, for we were tired of stopping day after day to
dry the bales and grease the tools and ironware, and
of seeing all things of cloth and leather rot visibly
before our eyes.
The 1st of May found us struggling through the
mire and water of the Makata with a caravan bodily
sick, from the exertion and fatigue of crossing so many
rivers and wading through marshes. Shaw was still
suffering from his first Mukunguru, exhibiting himself
under a new phase — a phase none of the pleasantest.
Besides delivering himself of certain desires not at all
complimentary to the Expedition within nervous hear-
ing, he seemed to assume by degrees the character of a
chronic hypochondriac, which, at all times an unlovely
character, is positively -hateful to the Mtongi of an
African expedition battling with swamps and rain, with
a sickened caravan ; Zaidi, a soldier, was critically ill
with the small-pox ; the kichuma-chuma, " little irons,"
had hold of Bombay across the chest, rendering him
the most useless of the unserviceables ; Mabruk Saleem,
a youth of lusty frame, following the example of
Bombay, laid himself down on the marshy ground,
professing, while imitating a man who vomits, his total
inability to breast the Makata swamp, but a plaited
tliong vigorously laid across his naked shoulders ex-
purged the seeming nausea from the stomach ; Abdul
Kader, the Hindi tailor and adventurer — the weakliest
of mortal bodies — was ever ailing for lack of " force," as
he expressed it in Frencli, i.e. " strength," ever indis-
posed to work, shiftless, mock-sick, but ever hungry.
" Oh ! God," was the cry of my tired soul, " were all
the men of my Expedition like this man I should be
140
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
compelled to return, but not before taking summajj
vengeance upon the whole of them." The virtue of a
good whip was well tested by me on this day, and
Abdul Kader (and may he carry the tale to all his kith,
kin and race), one may make sure, will never accom-
pany a white man again to Africa. Solomon was wise
perhaps from inspiration,, perhaps from obseiVatiou ; I
was becoming wise by experience, and I was compelled
to observe that when mud and wet sapped the physical
energy of the lazily-inclined, a dog-whip became their
backs, restoring them to a sound — sometimes to an
extravagant activity.
For thirty miles from our camp was the Makata
plain, an extensive swamp. The water was on an
average one foot in depth ; in some places we plunged
into holes three, four, and even five feet deep. Plash,
splash, plash, splash, were the only sounds we heard
from the commencement of the march until we found
the bomas occupying the only dry spots along the
line of march. This kind of work continued for two
days, until we came in sight of the Rudewa river,
another powerful stream with banks brimful of rushing
rain-water. Crossing a branch of the Rudewa, and
emerging from the dank reedy grass crowding the
western bank, the view consisted of an immense sheet
of water topped by clumps of grass tufts and foliage of
thinly scattered trees, bounded ten or twelve miles off
by the eastern front of the Usagara mountain range.
The acme of discomfort and vexation was realised on
the five-mile march from the Rudewa branch. As
myself and the Wanguana appeared with the loaded
donkeys, the pagazis were observed huddled on a
mound. When asked if the mound was the camp, they
replied "No." "Why, then, do you stop here?" —
Mat, 1871.]
TO mooo.
Ill
"Ugh ! water plenty! !" One drew a line across his
loins to indicate the depth of water before us, another
drew a line across his chest, another across his throat,
another held his hand over his head, by which he
meant that we should have to swim. Swim five miles
through a reedy marsh ! It was impossible ; it was
also impossible that such varied accounts could all be
correct. Without hesitation, therefore, I ordered the
Wanguana to proceed with the animals. After three
hours of splasliing through four feet of water we
reached dry land, and had traversed the swamp of
Makata. But not without the swamp with its horrors
having left a durable impression upon our minds ; no
one was disposed to forget its fatigues, nor the nausea
of travel which it almost engendered. Subsequently,
we had to remember its passage still more vividly, and
to regret that we had undertaken the journey during
the Masika season, when the animals died from this date
by twos and threes, almost every day, until but five
sickly worn-out beasts remained ; when the Wanguana,
soldiers, and pagazis sickened of diseases innumerable ;
when I myself was finally compelled to lie a-bed with
an attack of acute dysentery which brought me to the
verge of the grave. I suffered more, perhaps, than I
might have done had I taken the proper medicine,
but my over-confidence in that compound, called
" Collis Brown's Chlorodyne," delayed the cure which
ultimately resulted from a judicious use of Dover's
powder. In no one single case of diarrhoea or acute
dysentery had this " Chlorodyne," about which so much
has been said and written, any effect of lessening the
attack whatever, though I used three bottles. To tlio
dysentery contracted during the transit of the Makata
swamp, only two fell victims, and those were a pagazi
142
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
and my poor little dog " Omar," my companion from
India.
The only tree of any prominence in the Makata
valley was the Palmyra palm (Borassus flahelliformis\
and this grew in some places in numbers sufficient to be
called a grove ; the fruit was not ripe while we passed,
otherwise we might have enjoyed it as a novelty. The
other vegetation consisted of the several species of
thorn bush, and the graceful parachute-topped and
ever-green mimosa.
The 4th of May we were ascending a gentle slope
towards the important village of Eehenneko, the first
village near to which we encamped in Usagara. It
lay at the foot of the mountain, and its plenitude and
mountain air promised us comfort and health. It
was a square, compact village, surrounded by a
thick wall of mud, enclosing cone-topped huts, roofed
with bamboo and holcus-stalks ; and contained a popu-
lation of about a thousand souls. It has several
wealthy and populous neighbours, whose inhabitants
are independent enough in their manner, but not
unpleasantly so. The streams are of the purest water,
fresh, and pellucid as crystal, bubbling over round
pebbles and clean gravel, with a music delightful to
hear to the traveller in search of such a sweetly
potable element.
The bamboo grows to serviceable size in the neigh-
bourhood of Rehenneko, strong enough for tent and
baughy poles; and in numbers sufficient to supply an
army. The mountain slopes are densely wooded with
trees that might su])ply very good timber for building
purposes.
"We rested four days at this pleasant spot, to recruit
ourselves, and to allow the sick and feeble time to
Mat, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
143
recover a little before testing their ability in the ascent
of the Usagara mountains.
The 8th of May saw us with our terribly jaded
men and animals winding up the steep slopes of the
first line of hills ; gaining the summit of which we
obtained a view remarkably grand, which exhibited as
in a master picture the broad valley of the Makata,
with its swift streams like so many cords of silver, as
the sunshine played on the unshadowed reaches of
water, with its thousands of graceful palms adding not
a little to the charm of the scene, with the great wall
of the Uruguru and Uswapanga mountains dimly blue
but sublime in their loftiness and immensity — forming
a fit background to such an extensive far-embracing
prospect.
Turning our faces west, we found ourselves in a
mountain world, fold rising above fold, peak behind
peak, cone jostling cone ; away to the north, to the
west, to the south, the mountain tops rolled like so many
vitrified waves ; not one adust or arid spot was visible
in all this scene. The diorama had no sudden chanQ:es
or striking contrasts, for a universal forest of green
trees clothed every peak, cone, and summit.
To the men this first day's march through the
mountain region of Usagara was an agreeable interlude
after the successive journey over the flats and heavy
undulations of the maritime region, but to the loaded
and enfeebled animals it was most trying. We were
minus two by the time we had arrived at our camp, but
seven miles from Rehenneko, our first instalment of the
debt we owed to Makata. Water, sweet and clear, was
abundant in the deep hollows of the mountains, flowing
sometimes over beds of solid granite, sometimes over a
rich red sandstone, whose soft substance was soon pcne-
144
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
trated by tlie aqueous element, and whose particles were
swept away constantly to enrich the valley below ; and
in other ravines it dashed, and roared miniature thunder,
as it leapt over granite boulders and quartz rock.
The 9th of May, after another such an up-and-down
course, ascending hills and descending into the twilight
depths of deepening valleys, we came suddenly upon
the Mukondokwa, and its narrow pent-up valley
crowded with rank reedy grass, cane, and thorny
bushes ; and rugged tamarisk which grappled for exist-
ence with monster convolvuli, winding their coils
around their trunks with such tenacity and strength,
that the tamarisk seemed grown but for their support.
The valley was barely a quarter of a mile broad in
some places — at others it widened to about a mile. The
hills on either side shot up into precipitous slopes,
clothed with mimosa, acacia, and tamarisk, enclosing a
river and valley whose curves and folds were as various
as a serpent's.
Shortly after debouching into the Mukondokwa
valley, we struck the road traversed by Captains Surton
and Speke in 1857, between Mbumi and Kadetamare
(the latter place should be called Misonghi, Kadetamare
being but the name of a chief). After following the
left bank of the Mukondokwa, during which our route
diverged to every point from south-east to west, north
and north-east, for about an hour, we came to the ford.
Beyond tlie ford, a short half-hour's march, we came to
Kiora.
At this filthy village of Kiora, which was well-grounded
with goat-dung, and peopled with a wonderful number of
children for a hamlet that did not number twenty
families, with a hot sun pouring on the limited open
space, with a fury that exceeded 128° Fahrenheit; which
Mat, 1871.]
TO mOGO.
145
swarmed with flies, and insects of known and unknown
species ; I found, as I had been previously informed,
the third caravan, which had started out of Bagamoyo
so well fitted and supplied. The leader, who was no
other than the white man Farquhar, was sick a-bed
with swollen legs (Bright's disease, engendered by
general debauchery), unable and perhaps not a little
unwilling to move, knowing the condition into which
he had brought his caravan.
While sick with dysentery at Rehenneko I had re-
quested Shaw to write to Farquhar to obtain exact
information respecting the state of his caravan, which
had been reported to me by passing caravans as being
most pitiable. Shaw accordingly nerved himself to the
production of the following epistle: —
" Dear Farquhar,
" At the request of Mr. Stanley I write you to
asertain all your misfortunes, what quanterty of clorth
you have expened and how much you have left, how
many donkeys is dead, and, in fact, all the perticlurs.
How many pagazis have you discharged, and how
many have you with you. What have you done with
all the baggage the donkeys had, and who is your
parangozery. What is the mutter with you. What
is the matter with Jacko, and what was the matter with
the donkeys that dide. What sort of baggage have
you left in your camp. Send Sarmcan back to-morrow
morning in return with Williiningo and Barickca, and
■^be full reply to the abeve questions. In two days we
shall be up with you."
However ungrammatical and misspelt tlie above note
is, it is far more intelligible to me, and I believe will
be to the reader, than the reply which was received
L
146
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
from the leader of the third caravan, worded as
follows : —
" Dear Mr. Stanley,
" Everything is all right, but I have used a
good bit of cloth to pay pagazis ; one bale is entirely
finished. The Kirangozi was a rascal, I took
his cloth from him and drove him from camp. He
said he would come to you, I made Kiranga Kirangozi
and gave him ten doti. Food is very dear here ; only
two chickens for a shukka, and one goat costs five doti,
and I can't get out of here.
" I hired six pagazis yesterday and sent them on with
Uredi. Jooma said he was starving, so I gave him two
bales of Merikani. He says he will wait for you in
Ugogo. Jacko has been sick, I don't know with what,
and he can't do anything for me. Wellymingoe is my
cook now. Can you sepd me some sugar ? If you want
any help I shall send my pagazis to help you for it is
between where you are and this place that nine of my
donkeys died, and I have only one left. All the Kaniki
is finished, but I have got some more Merikani left.
" Give my respects to Mr. Shaw and Selim.
" Yours truly,
" W. L. Farquhar."
This was the precious response I received to an
anxious inquiry as to the condition of himself and
caravan. Had the man been stark crazy he could
hardly have indited anything better calculated to
confuse one.
In the first line he states " Everything is all right,"
when, according to the words immediately following,
everything appears to me to be wrong. He turns the
Mat, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
147
Kirangozi away for a personal piqne ; and to a Mgwana
soldier of mine detailed to accompany the fifth caravan,
Jumah by name, he gives, upon his mere asking, two
bales of Merikani, worth |150 in gold, containing 150
doti, a sufficient supply to feed a caravan of fifty men
from Bagamoyo to Unyanyembe. " All his Kaniki is
finished" also, which shows great carelessness. In
short, the letter is incomprehensible to me unless the
man Farquhar is hydl-ophobially insane, which fact I
made haste to ascertain as I entered the enclosure of
Kiora, and perceived his tent pitched on a heap of
goat-muck.
As he heard my voice, Farquhar staggered out of his
tent, as changed from my spruce mate who started from
Bagamoyo as if he had been expressly fattened by the
Wabembe of the Tanganika, as we do geese and
turkeys for the Christmas dinner — as interesting a
case of hypertrophy as Barnum's fat woman. I saw
and regarded, not without wonder, the bloated cheeks
and neck of my man Farquhar. His legs were also
donderous, elephantine, since his leg-illness was of ele-
phantiasis, or dropsy. His face was of a deathly pallor ;
but that was easily accounted for afterwards, when his
men informed me that he had not been out of his tent
for two weeks. He had made free use of the soldiers
and pagazis, as the least of his wants required their
services. In return, he paid them with a goat each day,
when a goat cost five doti. Sometimes he changed the
gift for chickens.
A breezy hill, overlooking the village of Kiora, was
chosen by me for my campingrground, and as soon
as the tents were pitched, the animals attended to, and
a boma made of thorn bushes, Farquhar was carried up
by four men into my tent. Upon being questioned as
L 2
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to the cause of his illness, he said he did not know
what had caused it. He had no pain, he thought, any-
where. I asked, " Do you not sometimes feel pain on
the right side ?"— " Yes, I think I do ; but I don't
know." — " Nor over the left nipple sometimes — a quick
throbbing, with a shortness of breath ?" — " Yes, I think
I have. I know I breathe quick sometimes." He did
not suffer from constipation ; he said his only trouble
was in the legs, which were swollen to an immense size.
Though he had the appetite of a horse, he yet felt weak
in the legs.
From the scant information of the disease and its
peculiarities, as given by Farquhar himself, I could only
make out, by studying a little medical book I had with
me, that " a swelling of the legs, purse, and sometimes
of the body, might result from either heart, liver, or
kidney disease." But, as the bowels were quite the re-
verse of being sluggish, I did not *know to what to
ascribe the disease, unless it was to elephantiasis — a
disease most common in Zanzibar ; nor did I know how
to treat it in a man who could not tell me whether he
felt pain in his head or in his back, in his feet or in his
chest.
Having found out that Farquhar's illness did not
need any immediate and paramount attention from me,
I set about resolving the contents of that recondite note
he had written to me at Rehenneko, and which had
exercised me so much ever since. But, incomprehensible
as was his note, Farquhar's verbal information as to
the state of the property entrusted to him was tenfold
more perplexing, complicated, and enigmatic. Not one
thread of his story could be unravelled to suit a me-
thodical mind. What he did do, and what he did not
do, wliat he had expended on cloth and beads, and
Mat, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
149
what he had not expended, were so inextricably
jumbled up together, that I felt myself drifting towards
helpless insanity, in endeavouring to create some order
out of the chaos of verbiage. The only way to cut
short the difficulty was to personally overhaui every
bale of cloth and load of beads, and ascertain, by
reference to my account of the third caravan, what
was missing.
The reader will perhaps remember that I have stated
that each caravan, before departing from Bagamoyo, or
from any other part of the coast for the interior, must
be furnished with cloth and beads •sufficient for four
months' subsistence on the road, independent of the
cloth set aside for the tribute to be paid in Ugogo, and
separate also from the bales for the carriage of which
the owner has contracted with the pagazis.
Farquhar's caravan was not an exception to this
custom and rule ; but, being a white man's caravan, it
was especially favoured for the leader's sake. It was
composed of 23 men and 10 donkeys, and was supplied
with 120 doti Merikani and Kauiki,and 35 lbs. of mixed
beads to buy food. As there are 240 shukka in 120
doti, and as one shukka bought on an average 25 kubaba
of grain, and as one kubaba was the customary allow-
ance for each man, it is as self-evident as an axiom that
240 shukka were sufficient to keep the caravan in grain
for eight months ; but as the journey to Unyanyembe
would not occupy 120 days, there would be left for the
tehite man to buy little luxuries, such as chickens, eggs,
and sometimes a goat, 120 shukkas of good marketable
cloth, and 35 lbs. of beads.
Now followed the examination of the ])r()j)erty.
I was anxious to see if it corresponded with what
was written on the list before the departure of the
150
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
caravan from Bagamoyo. The weighing, unpacking,
and repacking, occupied an hour, at the end of which I
knew the exact extent of the losses the Expedition
had incurred from the belly-greed and wanton care-
lessness of this feebly-intellectual white man. Within
seventy-three days he had "consumed the 240 shukka
given him for provisions, and 12 doti of colored cloths ;
he had then broached the bales, out of which he had
abstracted 82 doti, or 164 shukka, all of which had
been expended to supply his lust for goatmeat', eggs,
and poultry. Out of the bales of cloth which had
been entrusted to him to convey to Unyanyembe
there remained but two whole bales, all the other bales
had been expended to purchase goats, or paid out as
pagazi hire, for nine of his donkeys were dead, and
one was moribund.
On making out the list of the expenditure of the
sixth caravan, consisting of 43 souls and 17 donkeys led
by myself for fifty days, I perceived it only amounted to
43 doti, or 86 shukka, from which I knew that Farquhar
had no excuse for the waste of so much valuable cloth.
" Set a beggar on horseback and he will ride to the devil "
is a proverb the truth of which was manifest in this
case. I had given him a capital Zanzibar riding-ass for
himself which he had ridden to death. He had never
condescended to dismount from the moment he left one
camp until he arrived at another, and, not knowing
how to ride, he had see-sawed from side to side until the
poor animal's back was so terribly chafed that it soon
died. Had he continued his journey to Unyanyembe
— how or by what means I know not — and continued
his extravagant expenditure, not one shukka or one
pound of beads would have been left. It was therefore
fortunate for me that I overtook him at Kiora ; though
Mat, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
151
he was about to prove a sore incumbrance to me,
for he was not able to walk, and the donkey-carriage,
after the rough experience of the Makata valley, was
failing. I could not possibly leave him at Kiora,
death would soon overtake him there ; but how long I
could convey a man in such a state, through a country
devoid of carriage, was a question to be resolved by
circumstances.
On the 11th of May, the third and fifth caravans, now
united, followed up the right bank of the Mukoudokwa,
through fields of holcus, the great Mukondokwa
ranges rising in higher altitude as we proceeded west,
and enfolding us in the narrow river valley round
about. We left Muniyi Usagara on our right, and
soon after found hill-spurs athwart our road, which we
were obliged to ascend and descend.
A march of eight miles from the ford of ^lisonghi
brought us to another ford of the Mukondokwa, where
we bid a' long adieu to Burton's road, which led up to
the Goma pass and up the steep slopes of Rubeho. Our
road left the right bank and followed the left over
a country quite the reverse of the Mukondokwa valley,
enclosed between mountain ranges. Fertile soils and
spontaneous vegetation reeking with miasma, and over-
powering from their odour, we had exchanged for a
droutliy wilderness of aloetic and cactaceous plants,
where the kolquall and several thorn bushes grew
paramount.
Instead of the tree-clad heights, slopes and valleys,
instead of cultivated fields, we saw now the confines of
an uninhabited wilderness. The hill-tops were bared
of their bosky crowns, and revealed their rocky natures
blcrtched white by rain and s\m. Jsguru Peak, the
loftiest of tlie Usagara cones, stood right shoulder-
152
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
wards of us as we ascended the long slope of dun-grey
soil which rose beyond the brown Mukondokwa on the
left.
At the distance of two miles from the last ford, we
found a neat khambi, situated close to the river, where
it first broke into a furious rapid.
The next morning the caravan was preparing for the
march, when I was informed that the " Bana Mdogo "
— little master — Shaw, had not yet arrived with the
cart, and the men in charge of it. Late the previous
night I had despatched one donkey for Shaw, who had
said he was too ill to walk, and another for the load
that was on the cart ; and had retired satisfied that
they would soon arrive. My conclusion, when I learned
in the morning that the people had not yet come in,
was til at Shaw was not aware that for five days we
should have to march through a wilderness totally
uninhabited. I therefore despatched Chowpereh, a
Mgwana soldier, with tjie following note to him : —
" You will, upon receipt of this order, pitch the cart into
the nearest ravine, gulley, or river, as well as all the extra
pack saddles ; ajid come at once, for God's sake, for we
must not starve here
One, two, three, and four hours were passed by me in
the utmost impatience, waiting, but in vain, for Shaw.
Having a long march before us, I could wait no longer,
but went to meet his party myself. About a quarter
of a mile'*from the ford I met the van of the laggards —
stout, burly Chowpereh — and, 0 cartmakers, listen ! he
carried the cart on his head — wheels, shafts, body, axle,
and all complete ; he having found that carrying it was
much easier than drawing it. The sight was such a
damper to my regard for it as an experiment, that
the. cart was wheeled into the depths of the tall reeds,
Mat, 1871.] TO UGOGO. 158
and there left. The central figure was Shaw himself,
riding at a gait which seemed to leave it doubtful on my
mind whether he or his animal felt most sleepy. Upon
expostulating with him for keeping the caravan so long
waiting when there was. a march on hand — in a most
peculiar voice which he always assumed when disposed
to be ugl^'^-tempered — he said he had done the best he
could ; but as I had seen the solemn pace at which he
rode, I felt dubious about his best endeavours ; and
accordingly requested him if he could not mend his
gait, to dismount and permit the donkey to proceed to
camp, that it might be loaded for the march. Of course
there was a little scene, but the young European
Mtongi of an East African e:xpedition must needs sup
with the fellows he has chosen.
We arrived at Madete at 4 p.m., minus two
donkeys which had stretched their weary limbs in
death. We had crossed the Mukondokwa about 3 p.m.,
and after taking its bearings and course, I made sure
that its rise took place near a group of mountains about
forty miles north by west of Nguru Peak. Our road
led W.N.W., and at this place finally diverged from
the river.
On the 14th, after a march of seven miles over
hills whose sandstone and granite formation cropped
visibly here and there above the surface, whose stony
and dry aspect seemed reflected in every bush and
plant, and having gained an altitude of about eight
hundred feet above the flow of the Mukondokwa, we
sighted the Lake of Ugombo — a grey sheet of water
lying directly at the foot of the liill, from whose
summit we gazed at the scene. The view was neither
beautiful nor pretty, but what I should call refreshing;
it afforded a pleasant relief to the eyes fatigued from
154
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
dwelling on the bleak country around. Besides, the
immediate neighbourhood of the lake was too tame to
call- forth any enthusiasm ; there were no grandly
swelling mountains, no smiling landscapes — nothing
but a dun brown peak, about one thousand feet high
above the surface of the lake at its western extremity,
from which the lake derived its name, Ugombo ; nothing
but a low dun-brown irregular range, running parallel
with its northern shore at the distance of a mile ;
nothing but a low plain stretching from its western
shore far away towards the Mpwapwa ]\Iountains
and Marenga Mkali, then apparent to us from our
coign of vantage, from which extensive scene of
dun-brownness we were glad to rest our eyes on the
quiet grey water beneath.
The outline of the lake resembles, in my mind, a
' map of England without Wales. Northumberland
would represent very justly the western end of the
lake, where the hippopotami sported in great numbers ;
the coast fronting the German Sea, with its bold bends
and inlets, might find a miniature parallel in the
northern shore of the lake ; while the eastern side,
which was very long, was almost the exact copy of
the English coast as it is outlined from Kent to
Cornwall.
Descending from the summit of the range, which
bounded the lake east for about four hundred feet, we
travelled along the northern shore. The time occupied
in the journey from the eastern to tlie western ex-
tremity was exactly one hour and thirty minutes.
As this side represents its greatest length, I conclude
that the lake is three miles long by two miles greatest
breadth. The immediate shores of the lake on all
bides, for at least fifty feet from the water's edge,
f
i
May, 1871.] TO UOOOO. ' 155
is one impassable morass nourishing rank reeds and
rushes, where the hippopotamus' ponderous form has
crushed into watery trails the soft composition of the
morass as he passes from the lake on his nocturnal
excursions ; the lesser animals, such as the " mhogo "
(buffalo), the " punda-terra " (zebra), the " twiga "
(giraffe), the boar, the kudu, the hyrax or coney, and
the antelope, come here also to quench their thirst
by night. The surface of the lake swarms with an
astonishing variety of water-fowl, such as black swan,
duck, ibis sacra, cranes, pelicans; and soaring above
on the look-out for their prey are fish-eagles, and
hawks, while the neighbourhood is resonant with the
loud chirps of the guinea-fowls calling for their yoimg,
with the harsh cry of the toucan, the cooing of the
pigeon, an'd the " tu-whit, tu-whoo " of the owl. From
the long grass in its vicinity also issue the grating and
loud cry of the florican, woodcock, and grouse.
Being obliged to halt here two days, owing to tlie
desertion of the Hindi cooper Jako with one of my
best carbines, I improved the opportunity of exploring
the northern and southern shores of the lake. At the
rocky foot of a low, humpy hill on the northern side,
about fifteen feet above the present surface of the
water I detected in most distinct and definite lines
the agency of waves. From its base could be traced
clear to the edge of the dank morass tiny lines of
comminuted sliell as plainly marked as the small par-
ticles which lie in rows on a beach after a receding
tide. There is no doubt that the wave marks on the
sandstone might have been traced much higher by
ond skilled in geology ; it was only its elementary
cliaracter that was visible to me. Nor do I entertiiin
the least doubt, after a two days' exploration of the
156
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
neighbourhood, especially of the low plain at the western
end, that this Lake of Ugombo is but the tail of what
was once a large body of water equal in extent to the
Tanganika ; and, after' ascending half way up Ugombo
Peak, this opinion was confirmed when I saw the long-
depressed line of plain at its base stretching towards the
Mpwapwa Mountains thirty miles off, and thence round
to Marenga Mkali, and covering all that extensive sur-
face of forty miles in breadth, and an unknown length.
A depth of twelve feet more, I thought, as I gazed upon
it, would give the lake a length of thirty miles, and a
breadth of ten. A depth of thirty feet would increase
its length over a hundred miles, and give it a breadth
of fifty, for such was the level nature of the plain that
stretched west of Ugombo, and north of Marenga
Mkali. Besides, the water of the lake partook shghtly
of the bitter nature of the Matamombo creek, distant
fifteen miles, and in a still lesser degree of that of
Marenga Mkali, forty miles off.
Towards the end of the first day of our halt the
Hindi cooper Jako arrived in camp, alleging as an
excuse, that feeling fatigued he had fallen asleep in
some bushes a few feet from the roadside. Having
been the cause of our detention in the hungry wilder-
ness of Ugombo, I was not in a frame of mind to
forgive him ; so, to prevent any future truant tricks on
his part, I was under the necessity of including him
with the chained gangs of runaways.
Two more of our donkeys died, Farquhar having
killed another with his weight and see-sawing method of
riding. To prevent any of the valuable baggage being
left behind, I was obliged to send Farquhar off on my
own riding-ass to the village of Mpwapwa, thirty miles
off, under charge of Mabruki Burton. Farquhar liad
Mat, 1871.]
TO uooao.
157
become the laughing-stock of the caravan, from his
utter helplessness to do anything for himself. He was
continually crying out like a sick baby for half a dozen
people to wait upon him, and if they did not happen to
understand the English language in which he addressed
them, he poured out a volley of the most profane abuse
that ever offended the ears of a Christian gentleman.
Jako, whom I detailed as cook for him when despatched
with the third caravan, he had beaten and flogged
until he was almost imbecile ; and the Wanguana
soldiers were in such dread of his insane violence, that
they feared to go near him, and consequently Farquhar's
voice, at no time one of the most harmonious, was
heard night and day at the highest pitch of discordant
querulousness.
For six days I bore with this annoyance, and had my
donkeys lived, I might have borne longer with it, but
as they were all feeble, and such a rider as Farquhar
would destroy them all one after another, to save the
Expedition from ruin, I was reluctantly compelled to
come to the conclusion that it were better for me, for
him, and all concerned, that he be left with some kind
chief of a village, with a six months' supply of cloth
and beads until he got well, than that he should ruin
me, and make his own recovery impossible.
At breakfast time, on the 15th, as usual, Farquhar
and Shaw were invited to breakfast. It was evident
from their surly greeting to me, that somctliing was
the matter — or that sometliing was about to haj)peu.
The faces of both men wore a settled dark frown, which
seemed to bode no happy things for me. They did not
reply to the " Good morning" with which I greoted
them. They turned their faces aside as I looked at
them closely. It now struck me that their convcr-
168
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINQSTONE.
sation, the animated tones of which I had every now
and then heard, was about myself.
I asked them to take seats.
" Selim," said I, " bring breakfast."
A breakfast consisting of a roast quarter of goat,
stewed Kver, half a dozen sweet potatoes, some hot
pancakes, and coffee, was served.
*' Shaw," said I, " please carve, and serve Far-
quhar."
" What dog's meat is this ?" asked Shaw, in the
most insolent way imaginable.
" What do you mean ?" I asked.
" I mean, sir, that' it is a downright shame the way
you treat ns," said he, impudently, turning his face
towards me. " I mean to say, for myself, that you are
walking me too hard. I thought we were to have
donkeys to ride every day, and servants to wait upon
us. Instead of which I have now got to walk every
day through the hot sun, until I feel as if I would
rather be in than in this Expedition ; and
I wish every soul in this may sink to this
minute, so I do — there now ! "
" Listen to me, Shaw, and you, Farquhar. Ever
since you left the coast, you have had donkeys to ride.
You have had servants to Avait upon you ; your tents
have been set up for you ; your meals have been cooked
for you ; you have eaten with me of the same food I have
eaten ; you have received the same treatment I have
received. But now, all Farquhar's donkeys are dead ;
seven of my own have died, and I have had to throw
away a few things in order to procure carriage for the
most important goods. Farquhar is too sick to walk,
he must have a donkey to ride ; in yet a few days all
our animals will be dead ; after which I must have
Mat, 1871.]
TO UGOaO.
159
either over twenty more pagazis to take up the goods,
or wait weeks and weeks for carriage. Yet, in the
face of these things, you can grumble, and curse, and
swear at me at my own table. Have you considered
well your position ? Do you realize where you are ?
Do you know that you are my servant, sir, and not my
companion ? "
" Servant be ," said he.
But before Mr. Shaw could finish his sentence he
had measured his length on the ground.
" Is it necessary for me to proceed further to teach
you ?" I asked.
" I tell you what it is, sir," he replied, raising him-
self up. " I think I had better go back. ' I have had
enough, and I do not mean to go any further with you.
I ask my discharge from you."
" Oh, certainly. What, who is there ? Bombay,
come here."
After Bombay's appearance at the tent door, I said
to him, " Strike this man's tent," (pointing to Shaw.)
" He wants to go back. Bring his gun and pistol here to
my tent, and take this man and his baggage two hundred
yards outside of the camp, and there leave him."
In a few moments his tent was down, his gun and
pistol in my tent, and Bombay returned to make his
report, with four men under arms.
" Now go, sir. You are at perfect liberty to go.
These men will escort you outside of the camp, and
there leave you and your baggage."
He walked out, the men escorting him, and carrying
his baggage for him.
After breakfast, I began to explain to Farquhar how
necessary it was to me, to be able to proceed ; tliat I
had plenty of trouble, without having to think of men
160
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
who were employed to think of me and their duties ;
that as he was sick, and would be probably unable to
march for a time, it would be better I should leave him
in some quiet place, under the care of a good chief,
who would, for a consideration, look after him until he
got well. To all of which Farquhar agreed.
I had barely finished speaking before Bombay came
to the tent door saying, " Mr. Shaw would like to speak
to you."
I went out to the gate of the camp, and there met
Shaw, looking extremely penitent and ashamed. He
commenced to ask my pardon, and began imploring me
to take him back, and promising that I should never
find fault with him again.
I held out my hand, saying, " Don't mention it, my
dear fellow. Quarrels occur in the best of families.
Since you apologize, there is an end to it."
That night, as I was about falling asleep, I heard a
shot, and a bullet tore through my tent, a few inches
above my body. I snatched my revolvers, and rushed
out of my tent, and asked the men around the watch-
fires, " Who shot ?" They had all jumped up, rather
startled at the sudden report.
" Who fired that gun ?"
One said, the " Bana Mdogo " — little master.
I lit a candle, and walked with it to Shaw's tent.
" Shaw, did you fire ? "
There was no answer. He seemed to be asleep, he
was breathing so hard.
" Shaw ! Shaw ! did you fire that shot ?"
" Eh — eh ?" said he, suddenly awaking — " me ? — me
iire ? I have been asleep.*'
My eye caught sight of his gun lying near him. I
seized it — felt it — ]mt my little finger down the barrel
Mat, 1871.]
TO uaoGo.
161
The gun was warm ; my finger was black from the
burnt gunpowder !
" What is this ?"I asked, holding my finger up ; " the
gun is warm. The men tell me you fired."
" Ah — yes," he replied ; " I remember it. I dreamed
I saw a thief pass my door, and I fired. Ah — yes — I
forgot. I did fire. Why, what is the matter ? "
" Oh, nothing," I said. " But 1 would advise you in
future, in order to avoid all suspicion, not to fire into
my tent, or at least so near me. I might get hurt, you
know, in which case ugly reports would get about, and
this perhaps would be disagreeable, as you are probably
aware. Good night."
We all had our thoughts about this matter ; but I
never uttered a word about it to any one until I met
Livingstone. The Doctor embodied my suspicions in
the words, " He intended murder ! "
But what a clumsy way to murder ! Surely, had he
done so, ray own men would have punished him as the
crime deserved. A thousand better opportunities than
this would be presented in a month's mafch. I can
only account for it by supposing he was momentarily'
insane.
The 16th of May saw us journeying over the plain
which lies between Ugombo and Mpwapwa, skirting
close, at intervals, a low range of trap-rock, out of which
had become displaced by some violent agency several
immense boulders. On its slopes grew the kolquall to
a size which I had not seen in Abyssinia. In the plain
grew baobab, and immense tamarind, and a variety of
thorn.
Within five hours from Ugombo the mountain range
deflected towards the north-east, while we continued on
a north-westerly course, heading for the lofty mountain-
M
162
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
line of the Mpwapwa. To our left towered to the blue
clouds the gigantic Rubeho. The adoption of this new
road to Unyanyembe by which we were travelling was
now explained — we were enabled to avoid the passes
and stiff steeps of Rubeho, and had nothing worse to
encounter than a broad smooth plain, which sloped
gently to Ugogo.
After a march of fifteen miles we camped at a dry
mtoni, called Matamombo, celebrated for its pools of
bitter water of the color of ochre. Monkeys and rhino-
ceroses, besides kudus, steinboks, and antelopes, were
numerous in the vicinity. At this camp my little dog
*' Omar " died of inflammation of the bowels, almost
on the threshold of the country — Ugogo — where his
faithful watchfulness would have been invaluable to me.
The next day's march was also fifteen miles in
length, through one interminable jungle of thorn-
bushes. Within two miles of the camp, the road led up
a small river bed, broad as an avenue, clear to the
khambi of Mpwapwa, which was situated close to a
number of streams of the purest water.
The following morning found us much fatigued after
the long marches from Ugombo, and generally disposed
to take advantage of the precious luxuries Mpwapwa
ofFercd to caravans fresh from the fly-plagued lands oi
the Waseguhha and Wadoe. Sheikh Thani — clever but
innocently-speaking old Arab — was encamped under
the grateful umbrage of a huge Mtamba sycamore, and
had been regaling himself with fresh milk, luscious
mutton, and rich bullock humps, ever since his arrival
here, two days before ; and, as he informed me, it did
not suit his views- to quit such a happy abundance so
soon for the saline nitrous water of Marenga Mkali,
with its several terekezas, and manifold disagreeables.
Mat, 1871.]
TO UOOGO.
163
"No!" said he to me, empLatically, "better stop here
two or three days, give your tired animals some rest ;
collect all the pagazis you can, fill your inside with
fresh milk, sweet potatoes, beef, mutton, ghee, honey,
beans, matama, maweri, and nuts; — then, Inshallah !
wo shall go together through Ugogo without stopping
anywhere." As the advice tallied accurately with my
own desires and keen appetite for the good things he
named, he had not long to wait for my assent to his
counsel. '* Ugogo," continued he, " is rich with milk
and honey — rich in flour, beans, and almost every eat-
able thing ; and, Inshallah ! before another week is
gone we shall be in Ugogo !"
I had heard from passing caravans so many extremely
favourable reports respecting Ugogo and its productions
that it appeared to me a very Land of Promise, and I was
most anxious to refresh my jaded stomach with some of
the precious esculents raised in Ugogo ; but when I
heard that Mpwapwa also furnished some of those deli-
cate eatables, and good things, most of the morning
hours were spent in inducing the slow-witted people to
part with them ; and when, finally, eggs, milk, honey,
mutton, ghee, ground matama and beans had been col-
lected in sufficient quantities to produce a respectable
meal, my keenest attention and best culinary talents
were occupied for a couple of hours in converting this
crude supply into a breakfast which should be ac-
cepted by and befit a stomach at once fastidious and
famished, such as mine was. The subsequent healthy
digestion of it proved my endeavours to have been
eminently successful. At the termination of this
eventful day, the following remark was jotted down in
my diary : " Thank God ! After fifty-seven days of
living upon matama porridge and tough goat, I liave
M 2
164
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
enjoyed with unctuous satisfaction a real breakfast and
dinner."
It was in one of the many small villages which are
situated upon the slopes of the Mpwapwa that I found
a refuge and a home for Farquhar until he should be
enabled by restored health to start to join us at Unyan-
yembe.
Food was plentiful and of sufficient variety to suit
the most fastidious, — cheap also, much cheaper than
we had experienced for many a day. Leucole, the
chief of the village, with whom I made arrangements
for Farquhar's protection and comfort, was a little old
man of mild eye and very pleasing face, and on being
informed that I intended to leave the Musungu entirely
under his charge, suggested that I should appoint some
man in my employ to wait on him, and interpret his
wishes to his people. I had thought of this further
charge which Farquhar's illness might impose on me,
but had hoped that Leucole would have relieved me of
this for extra payment. The time, however, which had
elapsed between Farquhar's arrival and our own, had
been enough to prove to the chief his utter inability to
minister to the wants of a man like Farquhar, who per-
sisted in calling for the least thing in modern Anglo-
Saxon instead of Kisagara or Kisawahili, and who,
when not understood, would first roundly curse the
natives in English, and then, when he found that his
cursing was of no avail, would relapse into stubborn and
fierce silence. No amount of money would suffice to
bribe Leucole to undertake such a charge without an
interpreter. It was of no use to mourn my folly in
taking such a man as Farquliar on the Expedition : he
was in the interior of Africa and sick ; the duty devolved
on me to see that he was cared for. Accordingly I con-
Mat, 1871.]
TO UQOQO.
166
suited with Bombay as to what man could best be
spared to stop with Farquhar. To my suprise, Bombay
said, " Oh ! master, have you brought us to Africa to
throw us away like this ? We signed no contract to
stop behind, but to go with you to Ujiji, Ukerewe, or
Cairo. If you tell one of the soldiers to stop, he will
obey you until you are gone — he will then run away.
No, no, master, it will not do ! " Despite Bombay's
assertion — though there was no reason to doubt his
word — I inquired of each man personally whether he
would be willing to stay behind, and wait upon the sick
Musungu.
From each man I received an answer in the negative,
delivered most resolutely, and their reason they stated
to be the violent conduct of the Musungu towards the
three soldiers detailed to accompany his caravan from
Bagamoyo. They were afraid of him, he damned
them so on all occasions ; and Ulimengo mimicked him
so faithfully, yet so ludicrously, that it was almost
impossible to abstain from laughing. As, however, the
sick man absolutely needed some one to attend him, I
was compelled to use my authority, and, as Jako was
the only one who could speak English, except Bombay
and Selim my Arab interpreter, Jako, despite his pro-
testations and prayers, was appointed, and the chief
Leucole was satisfied. Six months' provisions of white
beads, Merikani and Kaniki cloth,- together with two
doti of handsome cloth to serve as a present to Leucole
after his recovery, were taken to Farquhar by Bombay,
together with a Starr's carbine, 300 rounds of cartridge,
a sot of cooking pots, and 3 lbs. of tea.
Abdullali bin Nasib, whom 1 found encamped here
with five hundred pagazis, and a train of Arab
and AVasawahili satellites, who revolved around his
166
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
importance, treated me in somewhat the same manner
. that Hamed bin Sulayman treated Speke at Kasenge.
Followed by his satellites, he came (a tall nervous-
looking man, of fifty or thereabouts) to see me in my
camp, and asked me if I wished to purchase donkeys.
As all my animals were either sick or moribund, I
replied very readily in the affirmative, upon which he
graciously said he would sell me as many as I wanted,
and for payment I could give him a draft on Zanzibar.
I thought him a very considerate and kind person,
fully justifying the encomiums lavished on him in
Burton's * Lake Regions of Central Africa,' and accord-
ingly I treated him with the consideration due to so
great and good a man. The morrow came, and with it
went Abdullah bin Nasib, or " Kisesa," as he is called*
by the Wanyamwezi, with all his pagazis, his train
of followers, and each and every one of his donkeys,
towards Bagamoyo, without so much as giving a
^ quahary," or good-bye.
At this place there are generally to be found from
ten to thirty pagazis awaiting up-caravans. I was
fortunate enough to secure twelve good people, who,
upon my arrival at Unyanyembe, without an exception,
voluntarily engaged themselves as carriers to Ujiji.
With the formidable marches of Marenga Mkali in
* front, I felt thankful for this happy windfall, which
resolved the difficulties I had been anticipating ; for
I had but ten donkeys left, and four of these were so
enfeebled that they were worthless as baggage animals.
Mpwapwa — so called by the Arabs, who have
managed to corrupt almost every native word — is
called " Mbambwa " by the Wasagara. It is a mouu-
tain range rising over 6,000 feet above the sea, bounding
on the north the extensive plain which commences at
Mat, 1871.]
TO UGOGO.
167
Ugombo lake, and on the east that part of the plain
which is called Marenga Mkali, which stretches away
beyond the borders of Uhumba. Opposite Mpwapwa,
at the distance of thirty miles or so, rises the Anak
peak of Rubeho, with several other ambitious and tall
brethren cresting long lines of rectilinear scarps, which
ascend from the plain of Ugombo and Marenga Mkali
as regularly as if they had been chiselled out by the
hands of generations of masons and stonecutters.
Upon looking at Mpwapwa's greenly-tinted slopes,
dark with many a dense ly-foliaged tree ; its many rills
flowing sweet and clear, nourishing besides thick
patches of gum and thorn bush, giant sycamore and
parachute-topped mimosa, and permitting my imagi-
nation to picture sweet views behind the tall cones
above, I was tempted to brave the fatigue of an ascent
to the summit. Nor was my love for the picturesque
disappointed. One sweep of the eyes embraced hun-
dreds of square miles of plain and mountain, from
Ugombo Peak away to distant Ugogo, and from
Rubeho and Ugogo to the dim and purple pasture
lands of the wild, untameable Wahumba. The plain
of Ugombo and its neighbour of Marenga Mkali^
apparently level as a sea, was dotted here and there
with " hillocks dropt in Nature's careless haste," which
appeared like islands amid th ; un and green expanse.
Where the jungle was dense the color was green, alter-
nating with dark brown ;* where the plain appeared
denuded of bush and brake it had a whity-brown ap-
pearance, on which the passing clouds now and again
cast their deep shadows. Altogether this side of the
picture was not inviting ; it exhibited too plainly the
true wilderness in its sternest aspect ; but perhaps the
knowledge that in the bosom of the vast plain before
168
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
me there was not one drop of water but was bitter as
nitre, and undrinkable as urine, prejudiced me against
it. The hunter might consider it a paradise, for in its
depths were all kinds of game to attract his keenest
instincts ; but to the mere traveller it had a stern out-
look. Nearer, however, to the base of the Mpwapwa
the aspect of the plain altered. At first, the jungle
thinned, openings in the wood appeared, then wide
and naked clearings, then extensive fields of the hardy
holcus, Indian corn, and maweri or bajri, with here
and there a square tembe or village. Still nearer ran
thin lines of fresh young grass, great trees surrounded
a patch of alluvial meadow. A broad river-bed, con-
taining several rivulets of water, ran through the
thirsty fields, conveying the vivifying element which
in this part of Usagara was so scarce and precious.
Down to the river-bed sloped the Mpwapwa, roughened
in some places by great boulders of basalt, or by rock
masses, which had parted from a precipitous scarp,
where clung the kolquall with a sure hold, drawing
nourishment where every other green thing failed ;
clad in others by the hardy mimosa, which rose like a
.sloping bank of green verdure almost to the summit.
And happy sight to me, so long a stranger to it, there
were hundreds of cattle grazing, imparting a pleasing
animation to the solitude of the deep folds of the moun-
tain range.
But the fairest view was' obtained by looking north-
ward towards the dense group of mountains which
buttressed the front range, facing towards Rubeho. It
was the home of- the winds, which starting here and
sweeping down the precipitous slopes and solitary
peaks on the western side, and gathering strength as
they rushed through the prairie-like Marenga Mkali,
May, 1871.]
TO UGoao.
169
howled through Ugogo and Unyamwezi with the force
of a storm. It was also the home of the dews, where
sprang the clear springs which cheered by their music
the bosky dells below, and enriched the populous
district of Mpwapwa. One felt better, stronger, on
this breezy height, drinking in the pure air and feast-
ing the eyes on such a varied landscape as it presented,
on spreading plateaus green as lawns, on smooth
rounded tops, on mountain vales containing recesses
which might charm a hermit's soul, on deep and awful
ravines where reigned a twilight gloom, on fractured
and riven precipices, on huge fantastically-worn
boulders which overtopped them, on picturesque tracts
which embraced all that was wild, and all that was
poetical in Nature. •
Mpwapwa, though the traveller from the coast will
feel grateful for the milk it furnished after being so
long deprived of it, will be kept in mind as a most
remarkable place for earwigs. In my tent they might
be counted by thousands ; in my slung cot they were
by hundreds ; on my clothes they were by fifties ; on
my neck and head they were by scores. The several
plagues of locusts, fleas, and lice sink into utter insig-
nificance compared with this damnable one of earwigs.
It is true they did not bite, and they did not irritate
the cuticle, but what their presence and numbers
suggested was something so horrible that it drove one
nearly insane to think of it. Who will come to East
Africa without reading the experiences of Burton and
Speke ? AVho is he that having read them will not
remember with horror the dreadful account given by
Speke of his encounters with these pests? My intense
nervous watchfulness alone, I believe, saved me from a
like calamity.
170 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Second to the earwigs in importance and in numbers
were the white ants, whose powers of destructiveness
were simply awful. Mats, cloth, portmanteaus, clothes,
in short, every article I possessed, seemed on the verge
of destruction, and, as I witnessed their voracity, I felt
anxious lest my tent should be devoured while I slept.
This was the first khambi since leaving the coast where
their presence became a matter of anxiety ; at all other
camping places hitherto the red and black ants had
usurped our attention, but at Mpwapwa the red species
were not seen, while the black were also very scarce.
After a three days' halt at Mpwapwa I decided on
a march to Marenga Mkali which should be unin-
terrupted until we reached Mvumi in Ugogo, where
1 should be inducted into the art of paying tribute to
the Wagogo chiefs. The first march to Kisokweh was
purposely made short, being barely four miles, in order
to enable Sheikh Thani, Sheikh Hamed, and five or
six Wasawahili caravans to come up with me at Chunyo
on the confines of Marenga Mkali.
OLR CAMI" Al C'IRNVO.
CHAPTER YI.
THROUGH MARENGA MKALT, UGOGO, AND UYANZI^ TO
UNYANYEMBE.
h.
m.
From Marenga Mkali to-
Mvumi, Little Ugogo
12
30
Mvurai, Great Ugogo
4
0
MaUmburu „
4
0
Bihawana „
4
0
Kididimo „
2
0
Pombcra Pereh „
10
0
Mizauza „
5
30
Mukondoku „
6
30
Manieka „
5
0
Mabuiiguru Mtoni, U-
yaiizi ....
8
0
Kiti, Uyauzi .
6
30
Msalalo ....
6
30
From Msalalo to —
h.
m.
Welled Ngaraiso .
3
30
3
15
Mgongo Terubo .
3
30
„ Mtoui
3
30
Nghwlialah Mtoni
2
40
Madedita ....
2
30
Central Tura, Unyam-
wczi ....
3
0
Kwala River .
7
0
liubuga ....
7
15
5
0
7
0
Kwihara ....
3
0
The 22n(l of May saw Thani and Hamcd's caravans
united with my own at Cliunyo, three and a lialf
4
172 SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
hours' march from Mpwapwa. The road from the
latter place ran along the skirts of the Mpwapwa
range ; at three or four places it crossed outlying spurs
that stood isolated from the main body of the range.
The last of these hill spurs, joined by an elevated cross
ridge to the Mpwapwa, shelters the tembe of Chunyo,
situated on the western face, from the stormy gusts
that come roaring down the steep slopes. The water
of Chunyo is eminently bad, in fact it is its saline-
nitrous nature which has given the name Marenga
Mkali — bitter water — to the wilderness which sepa-
rates Usagara from Ugogo. Though extremely offensive
to the palate, Arabs and the natives drink it without
fear, and without any bad results ; but they are care-
ful to withhold their baggage animals from the pits.
Being ignorant of its nature, and not exactly under-
standing what precise location was meant by Marenga
Mkali, I permitted the donkeys to be taken to water,
as usual after a march ; and the consequence was
calamitous in the extreme. What the fearful swamp of
Makata had spared, the waters of Marenga Mkali
destroyed. In less than five days after our departure
from Chunyo or Marenga Mkali, five out of the nine
donkeys left to me at the time — the five healthiest
animals — fell victims. The water appeared to cause
retention of urine ; for three of the animals died from
this cause.
We formed quite an imposing caravan as we emerged,
from inhospitable Chunyo, in number amounting to
about four hundred souls. We were strong in guns,
flags, horns, sounding drums and noise. To Sheikh
Ilamed, by permission of Sheikh Thani, and myself
was allotted the task of guiding and leading this great
caravan through dreaded Ugogo ; which was a most
unhappy selection, as will be seen hereafter.
MiT, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNTANTEMBE. 173
Marenga Mkali, over thirty miles across, was at last
before us. This distance had to be traversed within
thirty-six hours, so that the fatigue of the ordinary
march would be more than doubled by this. From
Chunyo to Ugogo not one drop of water was to be found.
As a large caravan, say over two hundred souls, seldom
travels over one and three-quarter miles per hour, a
march of thirty miles would require seventeen hours of
endurance without water and but little rest. East
Africa generally possessing unlimited quantities of
water, caravans have not been compelled for lack of
the element to have recourse to the mushok of India
and tl;e khirbeh of Egypt. Being able to cross the
waterless districts by a couple of long marches, they
content themselves for the time with a small gourdful,
and with keeping their imaginations dwelling upon
the copious quantities they will drink upon arrival at
the watering-place.
The march through this waterless district was most
monotonous, and a dangerous fever attacked me, which
seemed to eat into my very vitals. The wonders of
Africa that bodied themselves forth in the shape of
flocks of zebras, giraffes, elands, or antelopes, galloping
over the jungleless plain, had no charm for me ; nor
could they serve to draw my attention from the severe
fit of sickness which possessed me. Towards the end of
the first march I was not able to sit upon the donkey's
back ; nor would it do, when but a third of tlie way
across the wilderness, to halt until the next day ;
soldiers were therefore detailed to carry me in a
hammock, and, when the terekeza was performed in
the afternoon, I lay in a lethargic state, unconscious of
all things. With the niglit passed the fever, and,
at 3 o'clock in the morning, when the march was
174 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
resumed, I was booted and spurred, and the recognized
mtongi of my caravan, once more. At 8 a.m. we
had performed the thirty-two miles. The wilderness of
Marenga Mkali had been passed and we had entered
Ugogo, which was at once a dreaded land to my
caravan, and a Land of Promise to myself.
The transition from the wilderness into this Pro-
mised Land was very gradual and easy. Yery slowly
the jungle thinned, the cleared land was a long time
appearing, and when it had finally appeared, there
were no signs of cultivation until we could clearly make
out the herbage and vegetation on some hill slopes to
our right running parallel with our route, then we saw
timber on the hills, and broad acreage under cultivation
— and, lo ! as we ascended a wave of reddish earth
covered with tall weeds and cane, but a few feet from us,
and directly across our path, were the fields of matama
and grain we had been looking for, and Ugogo had
been entered an hour before.
The view was not such as I expected. I had
imagined a plateau several hundred feet higher than
Marenga Mkali, and an expansive view which should
reveal Ugogo and its characteristics at once. But instead,
while travelling from the tall weeds which covered the
clearing which had preceded the cultivated parts, we
had entered into the depths of the taller matama
stalks, and, excepting some distant hills near Mvumi,
where the Great Sultan lived — the first of the tribe to
whom we should pay tribute — the view was extremely
limited.
However, in the neighbourhood of the first village a
glimpse at some of the peculiar features of Ugogo was
obtained, and there was a vast plain — now flat, now
heaving upwards, here level as a tiible, there tilted up
Mat, 1871.] THROUGH VQOGO TO UNYANTEMBE. 175
into rugged knolls bristling with scores of rough
boulders of immense size, which lay piled one above
another as if the children of a Titanic race had been
playing at house-building. Indeed, these piles of
rounded, angular, and riven rock formed miniature
hills of themselves, and appeared as if each body had
been ejected upwards by some violent agency beneath.
There was one of these in particular, near Mvumi,
which was so large, and being slightly obscured from
view by the outspreading branches of a gigantic
baobab, bore such a strong resemblance to a square
tower of massive dimensions, that for a long time I
cherished the idea that I had discovered something most
interesting which had strangely escaped the notice of
my predecessors in East Africa. A nearer view dis-
pelled the illusion, and proved it to be a huge cube of
rock, measuring about forty feet each way. The baobabs
were also particularly conspicuous on this scene, no
other kind of tree being visible in the cultivated parts.
These had probably been left for two reasons : first,
want of proper axes for felling trees of such enormous
growth ; secondly, because during a famine the fruit of
the baobab furnishes a flour which, in the absence of
anything better, is said to be eatable and nourishing.
The first words I heard in Ugogo were from a Wa-
g:)go elder, of sturdy form, who in an indolent way
tended the flocks, but showed a marked interest in the
stranger clad in white flannels, with a Ilawkes' patent
cork solar topee on his head, a most unusual thing in
Ugogo, who came walking past him, and there were
*' Yambo, MuHungn, Yauibo, Bana, Bana," delivered
with a voice loud enough to make itself heard a full
mile away. No sooner had the greeting been delivered
than the word " Musungu " seemed to electrify his
176
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
* entire village ; and the people of other villages, situated
at intervals near the road, noting the excitement that
reigned at the first, also participated in the general frenzy
which seemed suddenly to have possessed them. I con-
sider my progress from the first village to Mvumi to
have been most triumphant ; for I was accompanied by
a furious mob of men, women, and children, all almost
as naked as Mother Eve when the world first dawned
upon her in the garden of Eden, fighting, quarreling,
jostling, staggering against each other for the best view
of the white man, the like of whom was now seen for
the first time in this part of Ugogo. The cries of admi-
ration, such as " Hi le !" which broke often and in con-
fused uproar upon my ear, were not gratefully accepted,
inasmuch as I deemed many of them impertinent. A
respectful silence and more reserved behaviour would
have won my esteem ; but, ye powers, who cause
etiquette to be observed in Usungu, respectful silence,
reserved behaviour, and esteem are terms unknown in
savage Ugogo. Hitherto I had compared myself to a
merchant of Bagdad travelling among the Kurds of
Kurdistan, selling his wares of Damascus silk, kefiyehs,
&c. ; but now I was compelled to lower my standard,
and thought myself not much better than the monkey
in the zoological collection at Central Park, whose
funny antics elicit such bursts of laughter from young
New Yorkers. One of my soldiers requested them to
lessen their vociferous noise ; but the evil-minded race
ordered him to shut up, as a thing unworthy to speak
to the Wagogo ! When I imploringly turned to the
Arabs for counsel in this strait, old Sheikh Thani,
always worldly wise, said, " Heed them not ; they are
dogs who bite besides barking."
At 9 A.M. we were in our boma, near Mvumi village ;
May, 1871.1 THnOUGH UGO&O ¥0 UNTANTEMBE. 177
but here also crowds of Wagogo came to catch a glimpse
of the Musungu, whose presence was soon made known
throughout the district of Mvtimi. But two hours later
I was oblivious of their endeavours to see me ; for,
despite repeated doses of quinine, the Mukunguru had
sure hold of me.
The next day was S, march of eight miles, from East
Mvuini to "West Mvumi, where lived the sultan of the
district. The quantity and variety of provisions which
arrived at our boma did not belie the reports respect-
ing the productions of Ugogo. Milk, sour and sweet,
honey, beans, matama, maweri, Indian corn, ghee, pea-
nuts, and a species of bean-nut very like a large
pistachio or an almond, water-melons, pumpkins^ mush-
melons, and cucumbers were brought, and readily
exchanged for Merikani, Kaniki, and for the white
Merikani beads and Sami-Sami, or Sam-Sam. The trade
and barter whicli progressed in the camp from morning
till night reminded me of the customs existing among
the Galias and Abyssinians. Eastward, caravans were
oljliged to despatch men with cloth, to purchase from
the villagers. This was unnecessary in Ugogo, where
the people voluntarily brought every vendible they
possessed to the camp. The smallest breadth of white
or blue cloth became saleable and useful in purchasing
provisions — even a loin-cloth worn threadbare.
The day after our march was a lialt. We had fixed
to-day for bearing the tribute to the Great Sultan of
Mvumi. l*rudent and cautious. Sheikh Thani early
began this important duty, the omission of which would
have been a signal for war. ITnmed and Thani sent
two faitliful slaves, well nji to the eccentricities of the
Wagogo sultans — well spoken, having glib tongues
and the real instinct for trade as carried on amongst
N
178
ITOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Orientals. They bore six doti of cloths, viz, one doti of
Dabwani Ulyah contributed by myself, also one doti of
Barsati from me, two doti Merikani Satine from Sheikh
Thani, and two doti of Kaniki from Sheikh Hamed, as
a first instalment of the tribute. The slaves were absent
a full hour, but having wasted tlieir powers of plead-
ing, in vain, they returned with the demand for more,
which Sheikh Thani communicated to me in this wise.
" Auf ! this Sultan is a very bad man — a very bad
man indeed ; he says, the Musungu is a great man,
I call him a sultan ; the Musungu is very rich, for he
has several caravans already gone past ; the Musungu
must pay forty doti, and the Arabs must pay twelve
doti each, for they have rich caravans. It is of no use
for you to tell me you are all one caravan, otherwise
why so many flags and tents ? Go and bring me sixty
doti, with less I will not be satisfied."
1 suggested to Sheikh Thani, upon hearing this
exorbitant demand, that had I twenty Wasungu armed
with Winchester repeating rifles, the Sultan might be
obliged to pay tribute to me ; but Thani prayed and
begged me to be cautious lest angry words miglit irritate
the Sultan and cause him to demand a double tribute,
as he was quite capable of doing so ; " and if you
preferred war," said he, " your pagazis would all desert,
and leave you and your cloth to the small mercy of the
Wagf)go." But I hastened to allay his fears by telling
Bombay, in his presence, that I had foreseen such de-
mands on the part of the Wagogo, and that having set
aside one hundred and twenty doti of honga cloths, I
should not consider myself a sufferer if the Sultan
demanded and I paid forty cloths to him ; that he must
therefore open the honga bale, and permit Sheikh Thani
to extract such cloths as the Sultan might like.
May, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNTAN7EMBE. 179
Sheikh Thani, having put on the cap of consideration
and joined heads with Hamed and the faithful serviles,
thought if I paid, twelve doti, out of which three should
be of Ulyah quality, that the Sultan might possibly
condescend to accept our tribute ; supposing he was
persuaded by the oratorical words of the *' Faithfuls,"
that the Musungu had nothing with him but the
mashiwa (boat), which would be of no use to him,
come what might, — with which prudent suggestion the
Musungu concurred, seeing its wisdom.
The slaves departed, bearing this time from our boma
thirty doti, with our best wishes for their success. In
an hour they returned with empty hands, but yet un-
successful. Tlie Sultan demanded six doti of Merikani,
and a fundo of bubu, from the Musungu ; and from the
Arabs and other caravans, twelve doti more. For the
third time the slaves departed for the Sultan's tembe,
carrying with them six doti Merikani and a fundo of
bubu from myself, and ten doti fromtlie Arabs. Again
they returned to us with the Sultan's words, " That, as
the doti of the Musungu were short measure, and the
cloth of the Arabs of miserable quality, the Musinigu
must send three doti full measure, and the Arabs five
doti of Kaniki." My three doti were at once measured
out with the longest fore-arm — according to Kigogo
measure — and sent off by Bombay'; but the Arabs
almost in despair declared they would be ruined if tliey
gave way to such demands, and out of the five doti
demanded sent only two, witli a pleading to the Sultan
that he would consider what was paid as just and fair
Muhoiigo, and not ask any more. But the Sultan of
^Ivumi was by no means disposed to consider any such
proposition, but declared he must have three doti, and
these to be two of Ulyah cloth, and one Kitambi Barsati,
N 2
1 80 HOW I FO UND L I VINGS TONE.
which, as he was determined to obtain, were sent to him
heavy with the deep maledictions .of Sheikh Hamed
and the despairing sighs of Sheikh Thani.
Ahogether the sultanship of a district in Ugogo
must be very remunerative, besides being a delightful
sinecure, so long as the sultan has to deal with timid
Ayab merchants who fear to exhibit anything approach-
ing to independence and self-reliance, lest they might
be mulcted in cloth. In one day from one boma the
sultan received forty-seven doti, consisting of Merikani,
Kaniki, Barsati, and Dabwani, equal to $35'25, be-
sides seven doti of superior cloths, consisting of Rehani,
Sohari, and Daobwani Ulyah, and one fundo of Bubu,
equal to $14'00, making a total of $49*25 — a most
handsome revenue for a Mgogo chief.
On the 27th May we gladly shook the dust of Mvumi
from our feet, and continued on our route — ever west-
ward. Five of my donkeys had died the night before,
from the effects of the water of Marenga Mkali.
Before leaving the boma of ]\Ivumi, I went to look at
their carcases ; but found them to have been clean
picked by the hygenas, and the bones taken possession
of by an army of white-necked crows.
As we passed the numerous villages, and perceived
the entire face of the land to be one vast field of grain,
and counted the people halted by scores on the roadside
to feast their eyes with a greedy stare on the Musungu,
I no longer wondered at the extortionate demands of
the-Wagogo. For it was manifest that they had but
to stretch out their hands to possess wliatever the
wealth of a caravan consisted of; and I began -to think
better of the people who, knowing well their strengtli,
did not use it — of people who were intellectual enough
to comprehend that their interest lay in permitting
May, 1^71.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNTANYEMBE. 18i
the caravans to pass ou without attempting any
outrage.
• Between Mvumi and the next sultan's district, that
of Mataniburu, I counted no less than twenty -five
villages scattered over the clayey, colored plain.
Despite the inhospitable nature of the plain, it was
better cultivated than any part of any other country
we had seen since leaving Bagamoyo.
When we had at last arrived at our bonia of
Matamburu, the same groups of curious people, the
same eager looks, the same exclamations of surprise,
the same peals of laughter at something they deemed
ludicrous in the Musungu's dress or manner, awaited
us, as at Mvumi. The Arabs being " Wakonongo "
travellers, whom they saw every day, enjoyed a com-
plete immunity from the vexations which we had to
endure.
The Sultan of Matamburu, a man of hetculean form,
and massive head well set on shoulders that might vie
with those of Milo, j)roved to be a very reasonable person.
Not quite so powerful as the Sultan of Mvumi, he yet
owned a fair share of Ugogo and about forty villages,
and could, if he chose, have oppressed the mercantile
souls of my Arab companions, in the same way as he
of Mvumi. Four doti of cloth were taken to him as a
preliminary offering to his greatness, which he said he
would accept, if the Arabs and Musungu would send
him four more. As his demands were so reasonable,
this little affair was soon terminated to everybody's
satisfaction ; and soon after, the kiraiigozi of Sheikh
Hamed sounded the signal for the morrow's march.
At the orders of the same Sheikh, the kirango/i
stood up to speak before the assembled caravans.
" Words, words, from the liana," he shouted. " Give
182
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
ear, kirangozis ! Listen, children of Unyarawezi ! The
journey is for to-morrow ! The road is crooked and
bad, bad ! The jungle is there, and many Wagogo lie
hidden within it ! Wagogo spear the pagazis, and cut
the throats of those who carry mutumba (bales and
ushanga beads) ! The "Wagogo have been to our
camp, they have seen your bales; to-night .they seek
the jungle : to-morrow watch well, 0 Wanyamwezi !
Keep close together, lag not behind ! Kirangozis walk
slow, that the weak, the sick, and the young may
keep up with the strong ! Take two rests on the
journey ! These are the words of the Bana (master).
Do you hear them, Wanyamwezi ? (A loud shout in
the affirmative from all.) Do you understand them
well ? (another chorus) ; then Bas ;" having said which,
the eloquent kirangozi retired into the dark night, and
his straw hut.
The march to Bihawana, our next camp, was rugged
and long, through a continuous jungle of gums and
thorns, up steep hills and finally over a fervid plain,
while the sun waxed hotter and hotter as it drew
near the meridian, until it seemed to scorch all vitality
from inanimate nature, while the view was one white
blaze, unbearable to the pained sight, which sought
relief from the glare in vain. Several sandy water-
courses, on which were impressed many a trail of
elephants, were also passed on this march. The slope
of these stream-beds trended south-east and south.
In the middle of this scorching plain stood the
villages of Bihawana, almost undistinguishable, from
the extreme lowness of the huts, which did not reach
the height of the tall bleached grass which stood
smoking in the untempered heat.
Our camp was in a large boma, about a quarter of a
May, 1871.] THROUGH UOOQO TO UNTANYEMBE. 183
mile from the Sultan's tembe. Soon after arriving at
the camp, I was visited by three Wagogo, who asked
me if I had seen a Mgogo on the road with a woman
and child. I was about to answer, very innocently,
" Yes," when Mabruki — cautious and watchful always"
for the interests of the master — requested me not to
answer, as the Wagogo, as customary, would charge me
with having done away with them, and would require
their price from me. Indignant at the imposition they
were about to practise upon me, I was about tg raise my
whip to flog them out of the camp, when again Mabruki,
with a roaring voice, bade me beware, for every blow
would cost me three or four doti of cloth. As I did
not care to gratify my anger at such an expense, I was
compelled to swallow my wrath, and consequently the
Wagogo escaped chastisement.
We baited for one day at this place, which was a
great relief to me, as I was suffering severely from inter-
mittent fever, which lasted in tins case two Aveeks, and
entirely prevented my posting my diary in full, as was
my custom every evening alter a march.
The Sultan of Bihawana, though his subjects were
evil-disposed, and ready-handed at theft and murder,
contented himself with three doti as honga. From this
chief I received news of my fourth caravan, which had
distinguished itself in a fight with some outlawed
subjects of his; my soldiers had killed two who had
attempted, after waylaying a couple of my pagazis, to
carry away a bale of cloth and a bag of beads ; coming
up in time, the soldiers decisively frustrated the attempt.
The Sultan thought that if all caravans were as well
guarded as mine were, there would be less depredations
committed on them while on the road ; with this I
heartily agreed.
184
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The next sultan's tembe through whose territory we
marched, this being on the 30th May, was at Kididimo,
but four miles from Bihawana. The road led through
a flat elongated plain lying between two lengthy hilly
ridges thickly dotted with the giant forms of the baobab.
Kididimo is exceedingly bleak in aspect. Even the
faces of the Wagogo seemed to haye contracted a bleak
hue from the general bleakness around. The water of
the pits obtained in the neighbourhood had the flavor
of warm Jiorse-urine, and two donkeys sickened and
died in less than an hour from its effects. Man suffered
belly-ache, nausea in the stomach, and a general irrita-
bility of the system ; and accordingly revenged himself
by cursing the country and its imbecile ruler most
heartily. The climax came, however, when Bombay
reported, after an attempt to settle the Muhongo, that
the chief's head had grown big since he heard that the
Musungu had come, and that its " bigness " could not
be reduced unless he could extract ten doti as tribute.
Though the demand was large, I was not in a humour
— being feeble, and almost nerveless, from repeated
attacks of the Mukunguru — to dis^Dute the sum : conse-
quently it was paid without many words. But the
Arabs continued the whole afternoon negociating, and
at the end had to pay eight doti each.
Between Kididimo and Nyambwa, the district of
the Sultan Pembera Pereh, was a broad and lengthy
forest and jungle inhabited by the elephant, rhinoceros,
zebra, deer, antelope, and giraffe. Starting at dawn
of the 3 1st, we entered the jungle, whose dark lines
and bosky banks were clearly visible from our bower
at Kididimo ; and, travelling for two hours, halted for
rest and breakfast, at pools of sweet water surrounded
by tracts of vivid green verdure, which were a great
May, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UXTANYEMBE. 185
resort for the wild animals of the jungle, whose tracks
were numerous and recent. A narrow nullah, shaded
deeply with foliage, afforded excellent retreats from the
glaring sunshine. At meridian, our thirst quenched,
our hunger satisfied, our gourds refilled, we set out
from the shade into the heated blaze of hot noon. The
path serpentined in and out of jungle, and thin forest,
into open tracts of grass bleached white as stubble,
into thickets of gums and thorns, which emitted an
odor as rank as a stable ; through clumps of wide-
spreading mimosa and colonies of baobab, through a
country teeming with noble game, which, though we
saw them frequently, were yet as safe from our rifles as
if we had been on the Indian Ocean. A terekeza,
such as we were now making, admits of no delay.
Water we had left behind at noon : until noon of the
next day not a drop was to be obtained ; and unless we
marched fast and long on this day, raging thirst would
demoralize everybody. So for six long weary hours
we toiled bravely; and at sunset we camped, and still
a march of two hours, to be done before the sun was an
hour high, intervened between us and our camp at
Nyambwa. Jhat night the men bivouacked under
the trees, surrounded by many miles of dense forest,
eujoying the cool night unprotected by hat or tent,
while I groaned and tossed throughout the night in
a paroxysm of fever.
The morn came ; and, while it was yet young, the
long caravan, or string of caravans, was under way.
It was tbe same forest, admitting, on the narrow line
wliich we threaded, but one man at a time. Its view
was as limited. To our right and left the forest was
dark and deep. Above was a riband of glassy sky
flecked by the floating nimbus. AVe lieard nothing save
186
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
a few stray notes from a flying bird, or the din of the
caravans as the men sang, or hummed, or conversed,
or shouted, as the thought struck them that we were
nearing water. One of my pagazis, wearied and sick,
fell, and never roge again. The last of the caravan
passed him before he died. Fortunately so, otherwise
we must have committed the barbarism of leaving him
unburied, whilst knowing he was dead.
At 7 A.M. we were encamped at Nyambwa, drinking
the excellent water found here with the avidity of
thirsty camels. Extensive fields of grain had heralded
the neighbourhood of the villages, at the sight of
which we were conscious that the caravan was quick-
ening its pace, as approaching its halting-place. As
the Wasungu drew within the populated area, crowds
of Wagogo used their utmost haste to see them before
they passed by. Young and old of both genders
pressed about us in a multitude — a very howling mob.
This excessive demonstrativeness elicited from my
sailor overseer the characteristic remark, " Well, I
declare, these must be the genuine Ugogians, for
they stare ! stare ! — my God, there is no end to their
staring. I'm almost tempted to slap 'em, in the face!"
In fact, the conduct of the Wagogo of Nyambwa was
an exaggeration of the general conduct of Wagogo.
Hitherto, those we had met had contented themselves
with staring and shouting ; but these outstepped all
bounds, and my growing anger at their excessive
insolence ^•ented itself in gripping the rowdiest of
them by the neck, and before he could recover from
his astonishment administe ring a sound thrashing with
my dog-whip, which he little relished. This proceeding
educed from the tribe of starers all their native power
of vituperation and abuse, in expressing which they
Mat, 1871.] THEOUQH UGOGO TO UNYANTEMBE. 187
were peculiar. Approaching in manner to angry tom-
cats, they jerked their words with something of a
splitting hiss and a half bark. The ejaculation, as
near as I can spell it phonetically, was " hahcht "
uttered in a shrill crescendo tone. They paced back
wards and forwards, asking themselves, " Are tlie
Wagogo to be beaten like slaves by this Musungu ?
A Mgogo is a Mgwana (a free man) ; he is not used to
be beaten, — hahcht." But whenever I made motion,
flourishing my whip, towards them, these mighty
braggarts found it convenient to move to respectable
distances from the irritated Musungu.
Perceiving that a little manliness and show of
power was something which the Wagogo long needed,
and that in this instance it relieved me from annoyance,
I had recourse to my whip, whose long lash cracked
like a pistol shot, whenevet they overstepped modera-
tion. So long as they continued to confine their
obtrusiveness to staring, and communicating to each
other their opinions respecting my complexion, and
dress, and accoutrements, I philosophically resigned
myself in silence for their amusement, but when they
pressed on me, barely allowing me to proceed, a few
vigorous and rapid slashes right and left with niy
serviseoble thong, soon cleared the track.
Pembera Pereh is a queer old man, very small, and
would be very insignificant were he not the greatest
sultan in Ugogo ; and enjoying a sort of dimediate
power over many other tribes. Though such an im-
portant chief, he is the meanest dressed of his subjects, —
is always filthy, — ever greasy — eternally foul about
the mouth ; but these are mere eccentricities : as a wise
judge, he is without parallel, always has a dodge ever
ready for the abstraction of cloth from the spiritless
168
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Arab merchants, wlio trade with Unyanyembe every
year ; and disposes with ease of a judicial case which
would overtask ordinary men.
Sheikh Hamed, who was elected guider of the
united caravans now travelling through Ugogo, was
of such a fragile and small make, that he might
be taken for an imitation of his famous prototype
" Dapper." Being of such dimensions, what he lacked
for weight and size he made up by activity. No
sooner was he arrived in camp than his trim dapper
form was seen frisking about from side to side of the
great boma, fidgeting, arranging, disturbing every-
thing and everybody. He permitted no bales or packs
to be intermingled, or to come into too close proximity
to his own ; he had a favourite mode of stacking his
goods, which he would see carried out ; he had a special
eye for the best place for his tent, and no one else must
trespass on that ground. One would imagine that
walking ten or fifteen miles a day, he would leave
such trivialities to his servants, but no, nothing
could be right unless he had personally superin-
tended it ; in which work he was tireless and knew
no fatigue.
Another not uncommon peculiarity pertained to
Sheikh Hamed ; as he was not a rich man, he laboured
hard to make the most of every shukka and doti ex-
pended, and each fresh expenditure seemed to gnaw his
very vitals : he wa§ ready to weep, as he himself expressed
it, at the high prices of Ugogo, and the extortionate
demands of its sultans. For this reason, being the
leader of the caraVans, so far as he was able we were
very sure not to be delayed in Ugogo, where food was
BO dear.
The day we arrived at Nyanibwa will be remembered
May, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNYJJTTEMBB. 189
by Hamed as long as he lives, for the trouble and
vexation which he suffered. His misfortunes arose
from the fact that, being too busily engaged in fidgeting
about the camp, he permitted his donkeys to stray into
the matama fields of Pembera Pereh, the Sultan. For
hours he and his servants sought for the stray donkeys,
returning towards evening utterly unsuccessful, Hamed
bewailing, as only an Oriental can do, when hard fate
visits him with its inflictions, the loss of a hundred
dollars worth of Muscat donkeys. Sheikh Thani, older,
more experienced, and wiser, suggested to him that he
should notify the Sultan of his loss. Acting upon the
sagacious advice, Hamed sent an embassy of two slaves,
and the information they brought back was, that Pem-
1 lera Pereh's servants had found the two donkeys eating
the unripened matama, and thj^t unless the Arab who
owned them would pay nine doti of first-class cloths, he,
Pembera Pereh, would surely keep thenoi to remunerate
him for the matama they had eaten. Hamed was in
despair. Nine doti of first-class cloths, worth $25 in
TJnyanyembe, for half a shukka's worth of grain, was,
as he thought, an al)surd demand ; but then if he did
not pay it, what would become of the hundred dollars
worth of donkeys? He proceeded to the Sultan to show
him the absurdity of the damage claim, and to endeavour
to make him accept one shukka, which would be more
than double the worth of what grain the donkeys had
consumed. But the Sultan was sitting on porabe, lie
was drunk, which I beHeve to be his normal state — too
drunk to attend to business, consequently his deputy, a
renegade Unyamwezi, gave ear to tlio business. With
most of tlie Wagogo chiefs lives a Unyamwezi, as their
right-liand man, prime minister, counsellor, executioner,
ready man at all things save the general good ; a sort
190
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
of harlequin Unyamwezi, who is such an intriguing,
restless, unsatisfied person, that as soon as one hears
that this kind of man forms one of and the chief of a
Mgogo sultan's council, one feels very much tempted
to do damage to his person. Most of the extortions
practised upon the Arabs are suggested by these crafty
renegades. Sheikh Hamed found that the Unyamwezi
was far more obdurate than the Sultan — nothing under
nine doti first-class cloths would redeem the donkeys.
The business that day remained unsettled, and the
night following was, as one may imagine, a very sleep-
less one to Hamed. As it turned out, however, the
loss of the donkeys, the after heavy fine, and the
sleepless night, proved to be blessings in disguise; for,
towards midnight, a robber Mgogo visited his camp,
and while attempting to steal a bale of cloth, was
detected in the act by the wide-awake and irritated
Arab, and was made to vanish instantly with a bullet
whistling in close proximity to his ear.
From each of the principals of the caravans, the
Unyamwezi had received as tribute for his drunken
master fifteen doti, and from the other six caravans six
doti each, altogether fifty-one doti, yet on the next
morning when we took the road he was not a whit
disposed to deduct a single cloth from the fine imposed
on Hamed, and the unfortunate Sheikh was therefore
obliged to liquidate the claim, or leave his donkeys
behind.
After travelling through the corn-fields of Pembera
Perch we emerged upon a broad flat plain, as level as
the still surface of a pond, whence the salt of the
Wagogo is obtained. From Kanyenyi on the southern
road, to beyond the confines of Uhumba and Ubanarama,
this saline field extends, containing many large ponds
May, 1871.] THROUGH UOOGO TO VNTANIEMBE.
191
of salt Litter water whose low banks are covered with
an effervescence partaking of the nature of nitrate.
Subsequently, hvo days afterwards, having ascended the
elevated ridge which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi, I
obtained a view of this immense saline plain, embracing
over a hundred square miles. I may have been
deceived, but I imagined I saw large expanses of
greyish-blue water, which causes me to believe that
this salina is but a corner of a great salt lake. The
Wahumba, who are numerous, from Nyambwa to the
Uyanzi border, informed my soldiers that there was a
" Maji Kuba " away to the north.
Mizanza, our next camp after Nyambwa, is situated
in a grove of palms, about thirteen miles from the latter
place. Soon after arriving I had to bury myself under
blankets, plagued with the same intermittent fever
which first attacked me during the transit of Marenga
Mkali. Feeling certain that one day's halt, which
would enable me to take regular doses of the invaluable
sulphate of quinine, would cure me, I requested Sheikh
Thani to tell Hamed to halt on the morrow, as I should
be utterly unable to continue thus long, under repeated
attacks of a virulent disease which was fast reducing
me into a mere frame of skin and bone. Hamed, in a
hurry to arrive at Unyanyembe in order to dispose
of his cloth before other caravans appeared in the
market, replied at first that he would not, that he could
not, stop for the Musungu. Upon Thani's reporting his
answer to me, I requested him to inform Hamed that,
as the Musungu did not wish to detain him, or any
other caravan, it was his express wish that Hamed
would march and leave him, as he was quite strong
enough in guns to march through Ugogo alone. What-
ever cause modified the Sheikh's resolution and hia
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
anxiety to depart, Haraed's horn signal for the march
was not heard that night, and on the morrow he had
not gone. •
Early in the morning I commenced on my quinine
doses ; at 6 a.m. -I took a second dose ; hefore noon I had
taken four more — altogether, fifty measured grains —
the effect of which was manifest in the copious per-
spiration which drenched flannels, linen, and blankets.
After noon I arose, devoutly thankful that the disease
which had clung to me for the last fourteen days had at
last succumbed to quinine.
On this day the lofty tent, and the American flag
which ever flew from the centre pole, attracted the
Sultan of Mizanza towards it, and was the cause of a
visit with which he honored me. As he was notorious
among the Arabs for having assisted Manwa Sera in
his war against Sheikh Sny bin Amer, high eulogies
upon whom have been written by Burton, and sub-
sequently by Speke, and as he was the second most
'^powerful chief in Ugogo, of course he was quite a
curiosity to me. As the tent-door was uplifted that he
might enter, the ancient gentleman was so struck with
astonishment at the lofty apex, and internal arrange-
ments, that the greasy Barsati cloth which formed his
sole and only protection against the chills of night and
the heat of noon, in a fit of abstraction was permitted
to fall down to his feet, exposing to the Musungu's unhal-
lowed gaze the sad and aged wreck of what must once
have been a towering form. His son, a youth of about
fifteen, attentive to the infirmities of his father, hastened
with filial duty to remind him of his nakedness, upon
which, with an idiotic titter at the incident, he resumed
his scanty apparel and sat down to wonder and gibber
out his admiration at the tent and the strange things
Jdke, 1871.] TEROUGE UGOGO TO UNTANTEMBE. 193
which formed the Musungu's personal baggage and
furniture. A Yarangian soldier ushered into the blaze
and magnificence of the Imperial Palace of Byzantium
could not have been struck with more astonishment than
was the Sultan of Mizanza at the fittings of my tent.
After gazing in stupid wonder at the table, on which
was placed some crockery and the few books I carried
with me ; at the slung hammock, which he believed was
suspended by some magical contrivance ; at the port-
manteaus which contained my stock of clothes, he
ejaculated, " Hi le ! the Musungu is a great sultan
who has come from his country to see Ugogo." He then
noticed me, and was again wonder-struck at my pale
complexion and straight hair, and the question now
propounded was, " How on earth was I white when the
sun had burned his people's skins into blackness ?"
"Whereupon he was shown my cork topee, which he
tried on his woolly head, much io his own and to our
amusement. The guns were next shown to him ; the
wonderful repeating rifle of the Winchester Com-pany,
which was fired thirteen times in rapid succession to
demonstrate its remarkable murderous powers. If he
was astonished before he was a thousand times more so
now, and expressed his belief that the Wagogo could
not stand before the Musungu in battle, for wherever a
Mgogo was seen such a gun would surely kill hiin.
Then the other tirearms were brough tforth, each with
its peculiar meclianism explained, until, in a burst of
enthusiasm at my riches and power, he said he would
.>end me a sheep or goat, and that he would be my
brother. I thanked him for the honor, and promised to
accept whatever he was pleased to send me. At the
instigation of Sheikh Thani, who acted as interpreter,
who said that Wagogo chiefs must not depart with
194
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
empty hands, I cut off a shukka of Kaniki and pre-
sented it to him, which, after being examined and
measured, was refused upon the ground that, the
Musungu being a great sultan should not demean
himself so much as to give him only a shukka. This,
after the twelve doti received as muhongo from the
caravans, I thought, was rather sore ; but as he was
about to present me with a sheep or goat another
shukka would not matter much.
Shortly after he departed, and true to his promise,
I received a large, fine. sheep, with a broad tail, heavy
with fat ; but with the words, " That being now his
brother, I must send him three doti of good cloth." As
the price of a sheep is but a doti and a half, I refused
the sheep and the fraternal honor, upon the ground
that the gifts were all on one side ; and that, as I had
paid muhoiigo, and given him a doti of Kaniki as a
present, I could not afford to part with any more cloth
without an adequate return.
During the afternoon one more of my donkeys died,
and at night the hyaenas came in great numbers to feast
upon the carcase. Ulimengo, the chasseur, and best
shot of my Wangwanas, stole out and suceeded in
shooting two, which turned out to be some of the
largest of their kind. One of them measured six feet
from the tip of the nose to the extremity of the tail,
and three feet around the girth.
On the 4th June we struck camp, and after travelling
westward for about three miles, passing several ponds of
salt water, we headed north by west, skirting the range
of low hills which separates Ugogo from Uyanzi.
After a three hours' march, we halted for a short time
at Little Mukondoku, to settle tribute with the brother
of him who rules at Mukondoku Proper. Three doti
TtjsE, 1871.1 THROUGH UGOGO TO UNTANYEMBE. 195
satisfied the Sultan, whose district contains but two vil-
lages, mostly occupied by pastoral Wahumba and renegade
Wahehe. The Wahumba live in plastered (cow-dung)
cone huts, shaped like the Tartar tents of Turkestan.
The' Wahumba, so far as I have seen them, are a fine
and well-formed race. The men are positively hand-
some, tall, with small heads, the posterior parts of
which project considerably. One will look in vain for
a thick lip or a flat nose amongst them ; on the con-
trary, the mouth is exceedingly well cut, delicately
small ; the nose is that of the* Greeks, and so universal
was the peculiar feature, that I at once named them
the G-reeks of Africa. Their lower limbs have not the
heaviness of the Wagogo and other tribes, but are long
and shapely, clean as those of an antelope. Their necks
are long and slender, on which their small heads are
poised most gracefully. Athletes from their youth,
shepherd bred, and intermarrying among themselves,
thus keeping the race pure, any of them would form a
fit subject for the sculptor who would wish to immor-
talize in marble an Antinous, a Hylas, a Daphnis, or
an Apollo. The women are as beautiful as the men
are handsome. They have clear ebon skins, not coal-
black, but of an inky hue. Their ornaments consist of
spiral rings of brass pendent from the ears, brass ring
collars about the necks, and a spiral cincture of brass
wire about their loins for the purpose of retaining their
calf and goat skins, which are folded about their bodies,
and, depending from the shoulder, shade one half of
the l)Osom, and fall to the knees.
The Wahehe may be styled the Romans of Africa.
Resuming our march, after a halt of an hour, in
four hours more we arrived at Mukondoku Proper.
This extremity of Ugogo is most populous. The
0 2
196
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
villages whicli surround the central tembe, where the
Sultan Swaruru lives, amount to thirty-six. The
people who flocked from these to see the wonderful
men whose faces were white, who wore the most
wonderful things on their persons, and possessed the
most wonderful weapons ; guns which " bum - bum-
med " as fast as you could count on your fingers,
formed such a mob of howling savages, that I for an
instant thought there was something besides mere
curiosity which caused such commotion, and attracted
such numbers to the roadside. Halting, I asked what
was the matter, and what they wanted, and why they
made such noise ? One burly rascal, taking my words
for a declaration of hostilities, promptly drew his bow,
but as prompt as he had fixed his arrow my faithful
"Winchester with thirteen shots in the magazine was
ready and at the shoulder, and but waited to see the
arrow fly to pour the leaden messengers of death into
the crowd. But the crowd vanished as quickly as they
had come, leaving the burly Thersites, and two or three
irresolute fellows of his tribe, standing within pistol
range of my levelled rifle. Such a sudden dispersion
of the mob which, but a moment before, was over-
whelming in numbers, caused me to lower my rifle, and
to indulge in a hearty laugh at the disgraceful flight of
the men-destroyers. The Arabs, who were as much
alarmed at their boisterous obtrusiveness, now came up
to patch a truce, in which they succeeded to everybody's
satisfaction. A few words of explanation, and the mob
came back in greater numbers than before ; and the
Thersites who had been the cause of the momentary
disturbance was obliged to retire abashed before the
pressure of public opinion. A chief now came nj),
whom I afterwards learned was the second man lo
JirsE, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE. 197
Swaruru, and lectured the people upon their treatment
of the " White Stranger."
'^Know ye not, Wagogo," shouted he, "that this
Musungu is a sultan (mtemi — a most high title). He
has not come to Ugogo like the Wakonongo (Arabs),
to trade in ivorj, but to see us, and give presents.
Why do you molest him and his people ? Let
them pass in peace. If you wish to see him, draw-
near, but do not mock him. The first of you who
creates a disturbance, let him beware ; our great mtemi
shall know how you treat his friends." This little bit of
oratorical effort on the part of the chief was translated
to me there and then by the old Sheikh Thani ; which
having understood, I bade the Sheikh inform the chief
that, after I had rested, I should like him to visit me
in my tent.
Having arrived at the khambi, which always sur-
rounds some great baobab in Ugogo, at the distance of
about half a mile from the tembe of the Sultan, the
Wagogo pressed in such great numbers to the camp, that
Slieikh Thani resolved to make an effort to stop or
mitigate the nuisance. Dressing himself in his best
clothes, he went to appeal to the Sultan for protection
against his people. The Sultan was very much inebri-
ated, and was pleased to say, " What is it you want,
you thief? You have come to steal my ivory or my
cloth. Go away, thief 1" But the sensible chief, whose
voice had just been heard reproaching the people for
their treatment of the Wasungu, beckoned to Slieikh
Thani to come out of the tembe, and then procet^dod
with him towards the khambi.
The camp was in a great uproar ; the curious Wagogo
monopolized almost every foot of ground ; there was no
room to turn anywhere. The Wanyamwczi were quar-
198 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
relling with the Wagogo, the Wasawahili servants were
clamouring loud that the "Wagogo pressed down their
tents, and that the property of the masters was in
danger ; while I, busy on my diary within my tent,
cared not how great was the noise and confusion out-
side as long as it confined itself to the "Wagogo, "Wan-
yamwezi, and Wangwana.
The presence of the chief in the camp was followed
by such a deep silence that I was prevailed upon to go
. outside to see what had caused it. The chief's words
were few, and to the point. He said, " To your tembes,
"Wagogo — to your tembes ! Why do you come to
trouble the "Wakonongo ? "What have you to do with
them ? To your tembes : go ! Each Mgogo found in
the khambi without meal, without cattle to sell, shall
pay to the mtemi cloth or cows. Away with you!"
Saying which, he snatched up a stick and drove the
hundreds out of the khambi, who were as obedient to
him as so many children. During the two days we
halted at Mukondoku we saw no more of the mob, and
there was peace.
The muhongo of the Sultan Swaruru was settled
with few words. The chief who acted for the Sultan as
his prime minister having been " made glad " with a
doti of Rehani Ulyah from me, accepted the usual tri-
bute of six doti, only one of which was of first-class
cloth.
There remained but one more sultan to who;:) mu-
hongo must be paid after Mukondoku, and this was the
Sultan of Kiwyeh, whose reputation was so bad that
owners of property wlio had control over their pagazis
seldom passed by Kiwyeli, preferring the hardships of
long marches througli the wilderness to the rudeness
and exorbitant demands of the chief of Kiwyeh. But
JoKK, 1871.] THROUGH UGOGO TO UNYANYEMBE. 199
the pagazis, on whom no burden or respousibiHty fell
save that of carrying their loads, who could use their
legs and show clean heels in the case of a hostile out-
break, preferred the march toKiwyeh to enduring thirst
and the fatigue of a terekeza. Often the preference of
the pagazis won the day, when their employers were
timid, irresolute men, like Sheikh Hamed.
The 7th of June was the day fixed for our departure
from Mukondoku, so the day before, the Arabs came to
my tent to counsel with me as to the route we should
adopt. On calling together the kirangozis of the re-
spective caravans and veteran Wanyamwezi pagazis, we
learned there were three roads leading from Mukon-
doku to Uyanzi. The first was the southern road, and
the one generally adopted, for the reasons already stated,
and led by Kiwyeh. To this Hamed raised objections.
" The Sultan was bad," he said ; " he sometimes charged
a caravan twenty doti ; our caravan would have to pay
about sixty doti. The Kiwyeh road would not do at all.
Besides," he added, " we have to make a terekeza to
reach Kiwyeh, and then we will not reach it before the
day after to-morrow." The second was the central road.
We should arrive at Munieka on the morrow ; the day
after would be a terekeza from Mabunguru Nullah to a
camp near Unyambogi ; two hours the next day would
bring us to Kiti, where there was plenty of water and
food. As neither of the kirangozis or Arabs knew this
road, and its description came from one of my ancient
pagazis, Hamed said he did not like to trust the
guidance of such a large caravan in the hands of an old
Unyamwezi, and would therefore prefer to hear about
the third road, before rendering his decision. The third
road was the northern. It led past numerous villages
of the Wagogo for the first two hours ; then we should
200
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
strike a jungle ; and a three hours' march would then
bring us to Simbo, where there was water, but no village.
Starting early next morning, we would travel six hours,
when we would arrive at a pool of water. Here taking
a short rest, an afternoon march of five hours would
bring us within three hours of another village. As this
last road was known to many, Hamed said, " Sheikh
Thani, tell the Sahib that I think this is the best
road." Sheikh Thani was told, after he had informed
me that, as I had marched with them through Ugogo,
if they decided upon going by Simbo, my caravan would
follow.
The routes being settled after much discussion, I
took compass bearings of the respective points. It will
be remembered that I said Mukondoku had been
reached after a three hours' march direct west from
Mizanza, that we had then travelled for about four hours
and a quarter north by west, skirting the base of a ridge
which ran from the neighbourhood of Kanyenyi north by
west to the borders of Uhumba, and which served as a
boundary line between Ugogo and the adjacent land of
the Wayanzi. Mukondoku was but two miles on the
easter-n side from this ridge : Kiwyeh pointed S.S.W.
from Mukondoku, thence was a march of seven d^ys
to Kusuri. The direction of Simbo was N.N.W.,
thence to Kusuri was a march of six days. It is thus
obvious enough that the shortest road was the one by
Kiti, and the only objection to it was that it was
unknown to any of the Arabs or kirangozis.
Immediately after the discussion among the princijials
respecting the merits of the several routes, arose a dis-
cussion among the pagazis which resulted in an obsti-
nate clamour against the Simbo road, for its long
terekeza and scant prospects of water, the dislike. to the
June, 1871.] TEBOUGH UGOGO TO UNTANYEMBE. 201
Simbo road communicated itself to all the caravans,
and soon it was magnified by reports of a wilderness
reaching from Simbo to Kusuri, where there was
neither food nor water to be obtained. Hamed's
pagazis, and those of the Arab servants, rose in a body
and declared they could not go on that march, and if
Hamed insisted upon adopting it they would put their
packs down and leave him to carry them himself.
Hamed Kimiani, as he was styled by the Arabs,
rushed up to Sheikh Thani, and declared that he must
take the Kiwyeh road, otherwise his pagazis would all
desert. Thani replied that all the roads were the same
to him, that wherever Hamed chose to go, he would
follow. They then came to my tent, and informed me of
the determination at which the Wanyamwezi had arrived.
Calling my veteran Mnyamwezi who had given me
the favourable report once more to my tent, I bade him
give a correct account of the Kiti road. It was so
favourable that my reply to Hamed was, that I was the
master of my caravan, that it was* to go wherever I
told the kirangozi, not where the pagazis chose ; that
when I told them to halt they must halt, and when I
commanded a march, a march should be made; and
that as I fed them well and did not overwork them, I
should like to see the pagazi or soldier that disobeyed
me. "You made up your mind just now that you
would take the Simbo road, and we were agreed upon
it, now your pagazis say they will take the Kiwyeh
road, or desert. Go on -the Kiwyeh road and pay
twenty d(;ti miihongo. I and my caravan to-morrow
morning will take the Kiti road, and when you find me
in Uuyanyembe one day ahead of you, you will be sorry
you did not take tlie same road."
This resolution of mine had the effect of again changing
202
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the current of Hamad's thoughts, for he instantly said,
"That is the best road after all, and as the Sahib is de-
termined to go on it, and we have all travelled together
through the bad land of the Wagogo, Inshallah ! let us
all go the same way," and Thani — good old man — not
objecting, and Hamed having decided, they both joy-
fully went out of the tent to communicate the news.
On the 7th the caravans — apparently unanimous that
the Kiti road was to be taken — were led as usual
by Hamed's kirangozi. We had barely gone a mile
before I perceived that we had left the Simbo road, had
taken the direction of Kiti, and, by a cunning detour,
were now fast approaching the defile of the mountain
ridge before us, which admitted access to the higher
plateau of Kiwyeh. Instantly halting my caravan,
I summoned the veteran who had travelled by Kiti, and
asked him whether we were not going towards Kiwyeh.
He replied that we were. Calling my pagazis together,
I bade Bombay tell them that the Musungu never
changed his mind ; that as I had said my caravan should
march by Kiti, to Kiti it must go whether the Arabs
followed or not. I then ordered the veteran to take up
his load and show the kirangozi the proper road to
Kiti. The Wanyamwezi pagazis put down their bales,
and then there was every indication of a mutiny. The
Wangwana soldiers were next ordered to load their
guns and to flank the caravan, and shoot the first
pagazis who made an attempt to run away. Dis-
mounting, I seized my whip, and, advancing towards
the first pagazi who had put down his load, I motioned to
him to take up his load and march. It was unnecessary
to proceed further ; without an exception, all marched
away obediently after the kirangozi. I was about bid-
ding farewell to Thani and Hamed, when Thani said,
June, 1871.] THROUGH UGOOO TO UNTANTEMBE. 203
" Stop a bit, Sahib ; I have had enough of this child's
play ; I come with you," and his caravan was turned
after mine. Hamed's caravan was by this time close
to the defile, and he himself was a full mile behind it,
weeping like a child at what he was pleased to call our
desertion of him. Pitying his strait — for he was almost
beside himself as thoughts of Kiwyeh's sultan, his ex-
tortion and rudeness, swept across his mind — I advised
him to run after his caravan, and tell it, as all the
rest had taken the other road, to think of the Sultan of
Kiwyeh. Before reaching the Kiti defile I was aware
that Hamed's caravan was following us.
The ascent of the ridge was rugged and steep, thorns
of the prickliest nature punished us severely, the acacia
horrida was here more horrid than usual, the gums
stretched out their branches, and entangled the loads,
the mimosa with its umbrella-like top served to shade
us from the sun, but impeded a rapid advance. Steep
outcrops of syenite and granite, worn smooth by many
feet, had to be climbed over, rugged terraces of earth
and rock had to be ascended, and distant shots resound-
ing through the forest added to the aiarm and general
discontent, and had I not been immediately behind my
caravan, watchful of every manoeuvre, my Wanyamwezi
had deserted to a man.
Though the height we ascended was barely 800
feet above the salina we had just left, the ascent
occupied two hours.
Having surmounted the plateau and the worst dif-
ficulties, we had a fair road comparatively, which ran
through jungle, forest, and small open tracts, which in
three hours more brought us to Munieka, a small
village, surrounded by a clearing richly cultivated by a
colony of subjects of Swaruru of Mukonduku.
204
HOW 1 FOUND LIVimSTONK
By the time we had arrived at camp everybody had
recovered his good humour and content except Achmet.
Thani's men happened to set his tent too close to
Hamed's tree, around which his bales were stacked.
Whether the little Sheikh imagined honest old Thani
capable of stealing one is not known, but it is certain
that he stormed and raved about the near neighbour-
hood of his best friend's tent, until Thani ordered its
removal a hundred yards off. This proceeding even, it
seems, did not satisfy Hamed, for it was quite midnight
— as Thani said — when Hamed came, and kissing his
hands and feet, ou his knees implored forgiveness, which
of course Thani, being the soul of good-nature, and as
large-hearted as any man, willingly gave. Hamed was
not satisfied, however, until, with the aid of his slaves,
he had transported his friend's tent to where it had at
first been pitched.
The water at Munieka was obtained from a deep '
depression in a hump of syenite, and was as clear as
crystal, and cold as ice-water — a luxury we had not '
experienced since leaving Simbamwenni.
We were now on the borders of Uyanzi, or, as it is
better known, " Magunda Mkali " — the Hot-ground, or
Hot-field. We had passed the village populated by
Wagogo, and were about to shake the dust of Ugogo
from our feet. We had entered Ugogo full of hopes,
believing it a most pleasant land — a land flowing with
milk and honey. We had been grievously disfip-
pointed ; it proved to be a land of gall and bitterness,
full of trouble and vexation of spirit, where danger was
imminent at every step — where we were exposed to the
caprice of inebriated sultans. Is it a wonder, then, that
all felt happy at such a moment ? With the prospect
before us of wliat was believed by many to be a real
Jdnk,1871.] MAGUNDA MKALI to UNTANYEMBE. 205
wilderness, our ardour was not abated, but was rather
strengthened. The wilderness in Africa proves to be,
in many instances, ijaore friendly than the populated
country.
The kirangozi blew his Kudu horn much more mer-
rily on this morning than he was accustomed to do
while in Ugogo. We were about to enter Magunda
Mkali. At 9 a.m., three hours after leaving Munieka,
and two hours since we had left the extreme limits of
Ugogo, we were halted at Mabunguru Nullah. The
Nullah runs south-westerly after leaving its source in
the chain of hills dividing Ugogo from Magunda
Mkali. During the rainy season it must be nearly
impassable, owing to the excessive slope of its bed.
Traces of the force of the torrent are seen in the
syenite and basalt boulders which encumber the course.
Their rugged angles are worn smooth, and deep basins
are excavated where the bed is of the rock, which in
the dry season serve as reservoirs. Though the water
contained in them has a slimy and greenish appearance,
and is well populated with frogs, it is by no means un-
palatable.
At noon we resumed our march, the Wanyamwezi
cheering, shouting, and singing, the Wangwana soldiers,
servants, and pagazis vieing with them in volume of
voice and noise — makinsf the dim forest tlirouo:li which
we were now passing, resonant with their voices.
The scenery was much more picturesque than any
we had yet seen since leaving Bagamoyo. Tlie ground
rose into grander waves — hills croi)j)ed out here and
there — great castles of syenite appeared, giving a stra nge
and weird appearance to the forest. From a distance
it would almost seem as if we were approaching a bit of
England as it unist have ap])eared during feudalism ;
I
206 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the rocks assumed such strange fantastic shapes. Now
they were round boulders raised one above another,
apparently susceptible to every breath of wind ; anon,
they towered like blunt-pointed obelisks, taller than the
tallest trees ; again they assumed the shape of mighty
waves, vitrified ; here, they were a small heap of frac-
tured and riven rock ; there, they rose to the grandeur
of hills.
By 5 P.M. we had travelled twenty miles, and the
signal was sounded for a halt. At 1 a.m., the moon
being up, Hamed's horn and voice were heard through-
out the silent camp awaking his pagazis for the march.
Evidently Sheikh Hamed was gone stark mad, other-
wise why should he be so frantic fol- the march at such
an early hour ? The dew was falling heavily, and
chilled one like frost ; and an ominous murmur of deep
discontent responded to the early call on all sides. Pre-
suming, however, that he had obtained better information
than we had. Sheikh Thani and I resolved to be governed
as the events proved him to be right or wrong.
As all were discontented, this night march was per-
formed in deep silence. The thermometer was at 53°,
we being about 4,500 feet above the level of the sea.
The pagazis, almost naked, walked quickly in order to
keep warm, and by so doing many a sore foot was
made by stumbling against obtrusive roots and rocks,
and treading on thorns. At 3 a.m. we arrived at the
village of Unyambogi, where we threw ourselves down
to rest and sleep, until dawn should reveal what else
was in store for the hard-dealt with caravans.
It was broad daylight when I awoke; the sun was
flaring his hot beams in my face. Sheikh Thaui came
soon after to inform me that Hamed had gone to Kiti
two hours since ; but he, when asked to accompany
June, 1871.] MAOUNDA MKALI TO UNYANTEM3E.
207
him, positively refused, exclaiming against it as folly,
and utterly unnecessary, when my advice was asked by
Thani. I voted the whole thing as sheer nonsense ;
and, in turn, asked him what a terekeza was for ?
Was it not an afternoon march to enable caravans to
reach water and food? Thani replied that it was.
I then asked him if there was no water or food to be
obtained in Unyambogi. Thani replied that he had
not taken pains to inquire, but was told by the villagers
that there was an abundance of matama, hindi, maweri,
sheep, goats, and chickens in their village at cheap
prices, such as were not known in Ugogo.
" Well, then," said I, " if Hamed wants to be a fool,
and kill his pagazis, why should we ? I have as much
cause for haste as Sheikh Hamed ; but Unyanyembe
is far yet, and I am not going to endanger my
property by playing the madman."
As Thani had reported, we found an abundance
of provisions at the village, and good sweet water
from some pits close by. A sheep cost one shukka ; six
chickens were also purchased at that price ; six measures
of matama, maweri, or hindi, were procurable for the
same sum ; in short, we were coming, at last, into
the land of plenty.
On the 10th June we arrived at Kiti after a journey
of four hours and a half, where we found the irrepres-
sible Hamed halted in sore trouble. He who would be
a Caesar, proved. to be an irresolute Antony. He had
to sorrow over the death of a favourite slave crirl, the
loss of five dish-dashes (Arab shirts), silvered-slecve and
gold-embroidered jackets, with which he had tlioiight to
enter Unyanyembe in state, as became a meicliant of
his standing, whicli had disappeared with three ab-
Bco'.id!' g servants, besides copper trays, rice, and pilau
208 • EOW 1 FOUND. LIVINGSTONE.
dishes, and two Bales of cloth with runaway Wan-
gwana pagazis. Selim, my Arab interpreter, asked
him, " What are you doing here, Sheikh Hamed ?
I thought you were well on the road to Unyanyemhe."
Said he, " Could I leave Thani, my friend, behind ?"
Kiti abounded in cattle and grain, and we were
able to obtain food at easy rates. The Wakimbu,
emigrants from Ukimbu, near Urori, are a quiet race,
preferring the peaceful arts of agriculture to war ; of
tending their flocks to conquest. At the least rumor
of war they remove their property and family, and
emigrate to the distant wilderness, where they begin
to clear the land, and to hunt the elephant for his
ivory. Yet we found them to be a fine race, and
well armed, and seemingly capable, by their numbers
and arms, to compete with any tribe. But here, as
elsewhere, disunion makes them weak. They are mere
small colonies, each colony ruled by its own chief;
whereas, were they united, they might make a very
resj)ectable front before an enemy.
Our next destination was Msalalo, distant fifteen
miles from Kiti. Hamed, after vainly searching for
his runaways and the valuable property he had lost,
followed us, and tried once more, when he saw us
encamped at Msalalo, to pass us; but his pagazis failed
him, the march having been so long.
Welled Xgaraiso was .reached on the 15th, after a
three and a half hours' march. It is a flourisliing
little place, where provisions were almost twice a ;
cheap as they were at Ilnyambogi. Two hours' march
south is Jiweh la Mkoa, on the old road, towards which
the road which we have been travelling since leaving
Bagamoyo was now rapidly leading.
Unyauyembe being near, the pagazis and soldiers
June, 1871.] MAGUNDA ME ALT TO UNTANTEMBE. 209
having behaved excellently during the lengthy marches
we had lately made, I purchased a bullock for three
doti, and had it slaughtered for their special benefit,
I also gave each a khete of red beads to indulge his
appetite for whatever little luxury the country afforded.
Milk and honey were plentiful, and three frasilah of
sweet potatoes were bought for a shukka, equal to
about 40 cents of our money.
The 13 th June brought us to the last village of
Magunda Mkali, in the district of Jiweh la Singa, after a
short march of eight miles and three-quarters. Kusuri
— so called by the Arabs — is called Konsuli by the
Wakimbu who inhabit it. Tliis is, however, but one
instance out of many where the Arabs have misnamed
or corrupted the native names of villages and districts.
Between Ngaraiso and Kusuri we parsed the village
of Kirururao, now a thriving place, with many a
thriving village near it. As we passed it, the people
came out to greet the Musungu, whose advent had been
so long heralded by his loud-mouthed caravans, and
whose soldiers had helped them win the day in a battle
against their fractious brothers of Jiweh la Mkoa.
A little further on we came across a large khambi,
occupied by Sultan bin Mohammed, an Omani Arab of
high descent, who, as soon as he was notified of my
approach, came out to welcome me, and invite me to his
kiiambi. As his harem lodged in his tent, of course I
was not invited thither ; but a carpet outside was ready
for his visitor. After the usual questions had been
asked about my health, the news of the road, the latest
from Zanzibar and Oman, he asked me if I had much
cloth with me. This was a question often asked by
owners of down caravans, and the reason of it is that
the Arabs, in their anxiety to make as much as possible
P
210
7/0 TI' I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
of their cloth at the ivory ports on the Tanganika and
elsewhere, are liable to forget that they should retain a
portion for the down marches. As, indeed, I had but a
bale left of the quantity of cloth retained for provision-
ing my party on the road, when outfitting my caravans
on the coast, I could unblushingly reply in the negative.
A few minutes later Sheikh Hamed was announced,
and immediately appeared, making a profound saluta-
tion before the great man, with great pretensions to
kiss his hands, and his " Kaif halek " evinced great
anxiety to know if Sultan bin Mohammed was " well —
quite, quite well." For about five minutes the two Arabs
exchanged anxious inquiries as to each other's health
and prospects. Then there was a little breathing pause,
and the same question which had been propounded to
ine about my cloth was given to Hamed. " Very little
indeed," answered the Sheikh ; and yet Sultan bin Mo-
liammed and I, knew well that he had fifty-five bales
with his caravan.
The stranger Arab sent his servant with a goat's
skin full of the beautiful and white rice of Unyanyembe
to my khambi at Kusuri, a gift I felt very much dis-
posed to decline, after the negative I had been com-
pelled to give him. He also offered to convey any
letters or small parcels I might wish to send to
Zanzibar ; and, on being informed that I had left a
white man sick at Mpwapwa, he promised to conduct
him to Zanzibar.
Soon after arriving at Kusuri, a party of Wasawahili
elepharvt hunters settled at Jiweh la Singa, paid me a
visit, under the leadership of an old man who had once
been Dlwan of Bagamoyo. Tliougli they brought no-
thing with them as a ])resent, they did not fail to beg
for paper, curry, and soap — three things I could very
June, 1871.] MAGUNDA MKALl TO UNYANTEMBE. . 211
ill spare, as the Makata swamp had made such stock
but small.
I halted a day at Kusuri to give my caravan a rest,
after its long series of marches, -before venturing on the
two days' march through tlie uninhabited wilderness
that separates the district of Jiweh la Singa Uyanzi
from the district of Tura in Unyanyembe. Hamed
preceded, promising to give Sayd bin Salim notice of
my coming, and to request him to provide a tembe
for me.
On the 15th, having ascertained that Sheikh Thani
would be detained several days at Kusuri, owing to the
excessive number of his people who were laid up with
that dreadful plague of East Africa, the small-pox, I
bade him farewell, and my caravan struck out of Kusuri
once more for the wilderness and the jungle. A little
before noon we halted at the khambi of Mgongo Tembo,
or the Elephant's Back — so called from a wave of rock
whose back, stained into dark brownnessby atmospheric
influences, is supposed by the natives to resemble the
blue-brown back of this monster of the forest. My
caravan had quite an argument with me here, as to
whether we should make the terekeza on this day or
on the next. The majority was of the opinion that the
next day would be the best for a terekeza ; but I, being
the "bana," consulting my own interests, insisted, not
without a flourish or two of my whip, that the terekeza
should be made on this day.
Mgongo Tembo, when Burton and Speke passed by,
was a promising settlement, cultivating many a fair acre
of ground. Jiut two years ago war broke out, for some
bold act of its people upon caravans, and the Arabs
came from Unyanyembe with their Wangwana servants,
attacked them, burnt the villages, and laid waste the
P 2
212
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
work of years. Since that time Mgongo Terabo has
been but blackened wrecks of houses, and the fiekls a
sprouting jungle.
A cluster of date paJm-trees, overtopping a dense
grove close to the ratoni of Mgongo Tembo, revived
my recollections of Egypt. The banks of the stream,
with their verdant foliage, presented a strange contrast
to the brown and dry appearance of the jungle which
lay on either side.
At 1 P.M. we resumed our loads and walking staffs,
and in a short time were e7i route for the Ngliwhalah
Mtoni, distant eight and three quarter miles from the
khambi. The sun was hot ; like a globe of living,
seething flame, it flared its heat full on our heads ;
then as it descended towards the west, scorched the air
before it was inhaled by the lungs which craved it.
Kibuyus of water were emptied speedily to quench the
fierce heat that burned the throat and lungs. One
pagazi, stricken heavily with the small-pox, succumbed,
and threw himself down on the roadside to die. AYe
never saw him afterwards, for the jirogress of a caravan
on a terekeza, is something like that ' of a ship in a
hurricane. The caravan must })roceed — woe befall him
who lags behind, for hunger and thirst will overtake
liim — so must a ship drive before the fierce gale to
escape foundering — woe befall him who falls over-
Ijoard !
An abundance of water, good, sweet, and cool, was
found in the bed of the mtoni in deep stony reservoiis.
Here also the traces of furious torrents were clearly
visible as at Mabunguru.
The Nghwhalali commences in Ubanarama to the
north — a country famous for its fine breed of donkeys —
and after running south, south-south-west, crosses the
June, 1871.] MAGUNDA MEALI TO UNYANTEMBE.
213
Unyanyembe road, from which point it Las more of a
westerly turn.
On the 16th we arrived at Madedita, so called from
a village which was, but is now no more. Madedita is
twelve and a half miles from the Nghwhalah Mtoni.
A pool of good water a few hundred yards from the
roadside is the only supply caravans can obtain, nearer
than Tura in Unyamwezi. The tsetse or chufwa-fly, as
called by the Wasawahili, stung us dreadfully, which is
a sign that large game visit the pool sometimes, but
must not be mistaken fur an indication that there is
any in the immediate neighbourhood of the water. A
single, pool so often frequented by passing caravans,
which must of necessity halt here, could not be often
visited by the animals of the forest, who are shy in this
part of Africa of the haunts of man.
At dawn the next day we were on the road striding
at a quicker pace than on most days, since we were
about to quit Magunda Mkali for the more populated
and better land of Unyamwezi, The forest held its
own for a wearisomely long time, but at the end of
two hours it thinned, then dwarfed into low jungle,
and finally vanished altogether, and we had arrived on
the soil of Unyamwezi, with a broad plain, swelling,
subsiding, and receding in lengthy and grand un-
dulations in our front to one indefinite horizontal line
which purpled in the far distance. The view consisted
of fields of grain ripening, which followed the contour
of the j)lain, and which rustled merrily before the
morning breeze that came laden with the chills ot
Usagara.
At 8 A.M. we had arrived at the frontier village of
Unyamwezi, Eastern Tura, which we invaded without
any regard to the disposition of the few inhabitauta
214 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
who lived there. Here we found Nondo, a runaway
of Speke's, one of those who had sided with Baraka
against Bombay, who, desiring' to engage himself with
me, was engaging enough to furnish honey and sherbet
to his former companions, and lastly to the pagazis.
It was only a short breathing pause we made here,
having another hour's march to reach Central Tura.
The road from Eastern Tura led through vast fields
of millet, Indinn corn, holcus sorghum, maweri, or
panicum, or bajri, as called by the Arabs ; gardens of
sweet potatoes, large tracts of cucumbers, water-melons,
mush-melons, and pea-nuts which grew in the deep
furrows between the ridges of the holcus.
Some broad-leafed plantain plants were also seen in
the neighbourhood of the villages, which as we ad-
vanced became very numerous. The villages of the
Wakimbu are like those of the Wagogo, square, flat-
roofed, enclosing an open area, which is sometimes
divided into three or four parts by fences of matama
stalks.
At Central Tura, where we encamped, we had evi-
dence enough of the rascality of the AVakimbu of Tura.
Haraed, who, despite his efforts to reach Unyanyembe
in time to sell his cloths before other Arabs came with
cloth supplies, was unable to compel his pagazis to the
double march every day, was also encamped at Central
Tura, together with the Arab servants who preferred
Hamed's imbecile haste, to Thani's cautious advance.
Our first night in Unyamwezi was very exciting indeed.
The Musungu's camp was visited by two crawling
thieves, but they were soon made aware by the por-
tentous click of a trigger that the white man's camp
was well guarded.
Hamed's camp was next visited ; but here also the
Juke, 1871.]
TUHA TO UXYANTEMBE.
215
restlessness of tlie owner frustrated tlieir attempts, for
he was pacing backwards and forwards through his
camp, with a loaded gun in his hand ; and the thieves
were obliged to relinquish the chance of stealing any
of Ins bales. From Hamed's they proceeded to Has-
san's camp (one of the Arab servants), where they were
successful enough to reach and lay hold of a couple of
baled ; but, unfortunately, they made a noise, which
awoke the vigilant and quick-eared slave, who snatched
his loaded musket, and in a moment had shot one of
them through the heart. Such were our experiences of
the Wakimbu of Tura.
The following morning the neighbouring villages
were made aware of the sad accident which had befallen
their number ; but though they were bold thieves by
night, they proved to be soulless cowards by day, and
did not resent the deed by word or even a look. This
day was a halt, and the inhabitants of Tura brought to
the camp such abundant stores of honey and ghee,
sweet potatoes and grain, that I was enabled for two
doti to feast my men, for the celebration of our arrival
in Unyamwezi.
On the 18th tlie three caravans, Hamed's, Hassan's,
and my own, left Tura by a road which zig-zagged
towards all points through the tall matama fields. In
an hour's time we had passed Tura Perro, or Western
Tura, and had entered the forest again, whence the
Wakimbu of Tura obtain their honey, and where
they excavate deep traps for the elephants with which
the forest is said to abound. An hour's march from
Western Tura brougiit us to a ziwa, or pond. Tlieie
were two, situated in the midst of a small open mbnga,
or plain, which, even at this late season, was yet sott
from the water which overflows it during: th<j raiiiv
216
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
season. After resting three hours, we started on the
terekeza, or afternoon march.
It was one and the same forest that we had entered
soon after leaving Western Tura, that we travelled
through until we reached the Kwala Mtoni, or, as
Burton has misnamed it on his map, " Kwale." The
water of this mtoni is contained in large ponds, or
deep depressions in the wide and crooked gully of
Kwala. In these ponds a species of mud-fish was
found, off one of which I made a meal, by no means to
be despised by one who had not tasted fish since leaving
Bagamoyo. Probably, if I had my clioice, being, w4ien
occasion demands it, rather fastidious in my tastes, I
would not select the mud-fish.
From Tura to the Kwala Mtoni is seventeen and
a half miles, a distance which, however easy it may
be traversed once a fortnight, assumes a prodigious
length when one has to travel it almost every other day,
at least, so my pagazis, soldiers, and followers found it,
and their murmurs were very loud when I ordered the
signal to be sounded on the march. Abdul Kader, the
tailor who had attached himself to me, as a man readv-
handed at all things, from mending a pair of pants,
making a delicate entremets, or shooting an elephant,
but w^hom the interior proved to be the weakliest of the
weakly, unfit for anything except eating and drinking
— almost succumbed on this march.
Long ago the little stock of goods which Abdul had
brought from Zanzibar folded in a pocket-handkerchief,
and with which he was about to buy ivory and slaves,
and make his fortune in the famed land of Unyamwezi,
had disappeared with the great eminent hopes he hrfd
built on them, like those of Alnaschar the unfortu-
nate owner of crockery in the Arabian tale. He came
JUHB, 1871.]
TURA TO UNYANYEMBE.
217
to me as we prepared for the march, with a most
dolorous tale about his approaching death, which he felt
in his bones, and weary back : his legs would barely
hold him up; in short, he had utterly collapsed — would
I take mercy on him, and let him depart ? The cause
of this extraordinary request, so unlike the spirit with
which he had left Zanzibar, eager to possess the ivory
and slaves of Unyamwezi, was that on the last long
march two of my donkeys being dead, I bad ordered that
the two saddles which they had carried, should be Abdul
Kader's load to Uuyanyembe. The weight of the
saddles was 16 lbs., as the spring balance -scale indicated,
yet Abdul Kader became weary of life, as he counted
the long marches that intervened between the mtoni
and Unyanyembe. On the ground he fell prone, to
kiss ray feet, begging me in the name of Grod to
permit him to depart.
As I had had some experience of Hindoos, Mala-
barese, and coolies in Abyssinia, I knew exactly how to
deal with a case like tliis. Unhesitatingly I granted the
request as soon as asked, for as much tired as Abdul
Kader said, he was of life, I was with Abdul Kader's
worthlessness. But the Hindi did not want to be left in
the jungle, he said, but after arriving in Unyanyembe.
" Oh," said I, " then you must reach Unyanyembe first ;
in the meanwhile you will carry those saddles there for
the food which you must eat." "Have you no mercy ?"
he implored. " None for such an incorrigibly lazy
wretch as you," I replied, accompanying my words
with a vigorous and most necessary application of my
donkey lash, which resuscitated the moribund into
active, if not useful life.
I confess I was somewhat ill-tempered on the morn-
ing of the 18th, somewhat tired also, and my kirangozi
218
BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
came in for a fair share of scolding'. I had no energetic
Muinyi Kidogo such as Burton had, otherwise I should
have valued such a man, rnethinks, much more highly
than, my predecessor. Many a time I sighed for such a
man, when, all my eloquence failing to inspire my
caravan for the march, I had recourse to threats, and
sometimes to flogging right and left to rouse the
pagazis and soldiers up. Upon every occasion of a
terekeza it was I who had to oider, no one ever had
occasion to request that T should make one — it was I
who had to argue its utility and necessity, I who was
obliged to cut short Bombay's vain words of pleading,
and rouse the pagazis out of the khambi by premonitory
cracks of my whip.
Very passionate were my reproaches to the kirangozi
for his mulish obtuseness in not perceiving that as
we neared Unyanyembe I could not fail to remember
when I bakshished those who had pleased me — that the
•kirangozi, instead of going when I told him, alwa^^s
abided by the advice of the pagazis. I asked him
with how many doti he had been bribed by the pagazis
to make small marches and long halts. He replied
that not one of the pagazis was going to give him any
cloth that he knew of. " Well, then," I asked, " how
many doti could I give you if you pleased me, and did
what I told you ?" " Oh, many, many !" he answered.
" Very well, then," I said, " take up your load, and let
me see from here to Unyanyembe how hard and how
fast you can walk ;" upon which he promised most
solemnly to abide by my word, only to march when
I ordered him, to halt only when I deemed it ne-
cessary.
As the march to Rubuga was eighteen and three-
quarter miles, the pagazis walked fast and long without
June, 1871.]
BUBUOA TO UNYANTEMBE.
219
resting. The kirangozi had made, as he had promised,
his legs and arms strong with a vengeance, for he
travelled the whole distance to Rubiiga Central without
a lialt, much to the dismay of his train of pagazis,'who
thought he was gone mad. Hitherto, we had been
compelled by the kirangozi to make an afternoon
march when the distance was but fifteen or sixteen
miles.
Kubuga, in the days of Burton, according to his book,
was a prosperous district. Even when we passed, the
evidences of wealth and prosperity which it possessed
formerly, were plain enough in the wide extent of its
grain fields, which stretched to the right and left of the
Unyanyembe road for many a mile. But they were
only evidences, of what once were numerous villages, a
well-cultivated and populous district, rich in herds of
cattle and stores of grain. All the villages are burnt
down, the people have been driven north three or four
days from Rul)uga, the cattle were taken by force, the
grain fields were left standing, to be overgrown with
jungle and rank weeds. We passed village after
village that had been burnt, and were mere blackened
heaps of charred timber and smoked clay ; field after
field of grain ripe years ago was yet standing in
the midst of a crop of gums and thorns, mimosa and
kolquall.
We arrived at the village, occupied by about sixty
"WangAvana, who have settled here to make a living by
buying and selling ivory. Food is provided for them
in the deserted fields of the people of Rubuga. We
were very tired and heated from the long march, but
the paga/is had all arrived by 3 p.m.
At the VVangwana village we met Amer bin Sultan,
the very type of an old Arab sheikh, such as we read
220
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
of ill books, witli a snowy beard, and a clean reverend
face, who was returning to Zanzibar after a ten years'
residence in Unyanyembe. He presented me M'ith a
goat, and a goat-skin full of rice ; a most acceptable gift
in a place where a goat cost five shukkas.
After a day's halt at Rubuga, during which I
despatched soldiers to notify Sheikh Sayd bin Salim
and Sheikh bin Nasib, the two chief dignitaries of
Unyanyembe, of my coming, on the 21st of June we
resumed the march for Kigwa, distant five hours. The
road ran through another forest similar to that which
separated Tura from Rubuga, the country rapidly
sloping as we proceeded westward. Kigwa we found
to have been visited by the same vengeance which
rendered Rubuga such a waste.
The next day, after a three and a half hours' rapid
march, we crossed the mtoni — which was no mtoni —
separating Kigwa from Unyanyembe district, and after
a short halt to quench our thirst, in three and a half
hours more arrived at Shiza. It was a most delightful
march, though a long one, for its picturesqueness of
scenery which every few minutes was revealed, and the
proofs we everywhere saw of the peaceable and indus-
trious disposition of the people. A short half hour
from Shiza we beheld the undulating plain wherein the
Arabs have chosen to situate the central depot which
commands such a wide and extensive field of trade.
The lowing of cattle and the bleating of the goats and
sheep were everywhere heard, giving the country a
Iiappy, pastoral aspect.
The Sultan of Shiza desired me to celebrate my
arrival in Unyanyembe, with a five -gallon jar of
pombe, which he brought for that purpose.
As the pombe was but stale ale in taste, and milk and
Joke, 1871.]
UNTAXYEMBE.
221
water in color, after drinkiiig a small glassful I passeil
it to the delighted soldiers and pagazis. At mj request
the Sultan brought a fine fat bullock, for which lie
accepted four and a half doti of Merikani. The
bullock was immediately slaughtered and served out to
the caravan as a farewell feast-
No one slept much that night, and long before
the dawn the fires were lit, and great steaks were
broiling, that their stomachs might rejoice before part-
ing with the Musungu, whose bounty they had so often
tasted. Six rounds of powder were served to each
soldier and pagazi who owned a gun, to fire away
when we should be near the Arab houses. The meanest
pagazi had his best cloth about his loins, and some
were exceedingly brave in gorgeous Ulyah " Coombeesa
Poonga " and crimson " Jawah," the glossy " Rehani,"
and the neat " Dabwani." The soldiers were mustered in
new tarbooshes, and the long white shirts of the Mrima
and the Island. For this was the great and happy day
which had been on our tongues ever since quitting the
coast, for which we had made those noted marches
latterly — one hundred and seventy-eight and a half
miles in sixteen days, including pauses — something over
eleven miles a day !
The signal sounded, and the caravan was joyfullj* off
with banners flying, and trumpets and horns blaring.
A short two and a half hours' march broue:ht us within
sight of Kwikuru, which is about two miles south of
Tabora, the main Arab town; on the outside of which
we saw a long line of men in clean shirts, whereat we
opened our charged batteries, and fired a volley of
small arms such as Kwikuru seldom heard before. The
pagazis closed up and adopted the swagger of veterans :
the soldiers blazed away uninterruptedly, while I,
222
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
seeing that the Arabs were' advancing towards me, left
the ranks, and held out my hand, which was immediately
grasped by Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, and then by about
two dozen people, and thus our entree into Unyanyembe
was effected.
m
CHAPTER YII.
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS.
The geography of the country through which we have
just traversed has been described ab-eady under its
various aspects — as we were informed through native
reports, and as we saw it ourselves — in the preceding
pages. But it would be as well to summarise, as
cleaily as possible, in a chapter specially devoted to
the geography and ethnography of the country, what
additional knowledge we have gained of the interior of
Africa.
There were three routes to Unyanyembe from Baga-
moyo, either of which might have been taken by our
Expedition ; but two of them were already known by
the minute description which we have received from
my predecessors in this part of Ai'riea — Messrs. Burton,
224
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Speke, and Grant. There was one, a more northern
and direct route to Unyanyembe, which was said to
lead through Northern Uzaramo, Ukwere, Ukami,
Udoe, Usegiihha or Usegiira, Usagara, Ugogo, Uyanzi,
thence to Unyamwezi. It was this which I adopted.
As the crow flies, or, in geographical parlance,
rectilineally, the distance from Bagaraoyo to Unyan-
yembe is nearly 6° of longitude, or three hundred and
sixty miles. The sinuosity of the path taken by
caravans, which in Africa is adapted to the lay of
the coimtry, and follows the easier, less dangerous,
more available course, extends the distance to be
traversed, to over five hundred and twenty miles.
I reckon of course by the time occupied by the
marches, and the rate of progress, which I presume to
be not more nor less than 2*5 miles per hour.
That portion of country extending from , Bagamoyo
to Kikoka is called the " Mrima " — the hill ; it may
also be designated Sawahili, and also Zanguebar. We
recognize the latter name as figuring prominently in
our ancient maps, as the designation given to a lengthy
strip of sea-coast extending from the mouth of the
Jub, to Cape Delgado, or from the equator to
S. lat. 10° 41". Sawahili means the " sea-coast," hence
the people who live on this sea-coast of Zanguebar
are called Wasawahili, and their language, Kisawahili.
And it may licre be mentioned that the prefix U, means
country,* Wa, for persons in the plural, M, is the sin-
gular for one person. Thus U-zaramo, means country
of Znramo; Wa-zaramo, would mean people of Zaramo;
M-zaramo, one person of Zaramo; Ki-zaramo, language
of Zaramo.
Bagamoyo is a small port on the Mrima, Sawahili, or
Zanguebar coast, which stands nearly opposite the port
OEOGRAPEICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 225
of Zanzibar, wliither caravans generally bound for Un-
yanyembe land. A few miles higher up, north, are the
ports of Whinde and Saadani, situated one on each side
of the mouth of the Eiver Wami. Four miles south of
Bagamoyo is Kaole, a small village which contains ,
a gurayza or fort, with about a dozen Baluches for a
garrison. South of Kaole is Konduchi, and southward
still is Dar Salaam, a new port established by the late
Sultan. South of Dar Salaam is Mbuamaji, quite an
important rendezvous for caravans bound for the
interior. About sixty miles south of Mbuamaji is the
most northern mouth of the Rufiji river, opposite the
island of Mafia or Monfia ; and a degree further south
we come to the famous port of Kilwa, that great
entrepot of slave traders.
The strip of land known as the Mrima is a most
important one in the eyes of the civilized world, for
upon here, now that the slave question is being
agitated, our attention should be seriously concentrated.
Its importance to us, arises from the fact that by means
of its ports, Mombasah, Bueni, Saadani, Whinde, Baga-
moyo, Kaole, Konduchi, Dar Salaam, Mbuamaji, and
Kilwa, three-fourths of the slaves captured, kidnapped,
or bought in the interior, are shipped abroad. This
fact should be remembered.
Once we cross the Kingani River on our road to
Unyanyembe, we may be said to have left the country
of the Wamrima, and to have touched upon the most
northern extremity of Uzaramo. The Sultan of Zanzibar
has established a post at Kikoka, four miles west of the
Kingani, and by this has made good his claim to call
the ten miles of country from Bagamoyo to Kikoka his
own. As there are no inhabitants between the river
and Kikoka, his claim is not disputed.
Q
226
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
On our right — which is to the north of the Un3'-an-
yembe road — stretches Ukwere, two days' march, or
twenty-five miles. West, Ukwere extends from Eosako
to Kisemo, a distance of sixty miles. From Kisetno,
west, half-way to Mikeseh, or east of the Kira Peak,
extends Ukami. This country formerly stretched as far,
as and included Simbamwenni, the capital of the Wase-
guhha ; but the Wadoe, their northern neighbours, in-
vaded and conquered the inhabitants, who were in
their turn conquered by the powerful tribes of the
"Waseguhha. From Kira Peak to Ulagalla is included
under the name of Udoe, still a large country, which
overlaps, on the north, Ukami, eastward beyond
Ukwere to the Mrima, or the coast. This portion,
between Kira Peak and Ulagalla is the south-western
extremity of the territory of the Wadoe.
Useguhha begins at Ulagalla, and its western extre-
mity is on the eastern bank of the Makata.
The whole of this country, embracing these several
districts of Ukwere, Ukami, Udoe, and Useguhha, is
drained by the Kingani, and its tributaries — or, I should
fay, by its chief tributary, the Ungerengeri. By
adopting this northern route I was enabled to discover
the principal branch of the Kingani in the Ungerengeri,
called Rufu by the natives, as it enters into the main
river. Speke and Grant discovered the Mgeta, another
branch, flowing from west of the Mkambaku range, and
circling southerly round about, thus draining the whole
of Ukutu and Uzaramo. The area of land drained by
the Kingani and its tributaries may be estimated at
not more than twelve thousand square miles.
It will be noticed by those who study African
geograpliy, that Speke has placed on his map, near
long. E. 37°, a range of mountains called the Mkam-
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 227
baku range, extending north at least 1°. That part of
the range called the " Mkambaku " our Expedition saw,
but the most northern portion of it is known as the
Uruguru mountains. At the foot of its most northern
extremity, as the range deflects eastward, the capital of
southern Useguhha, Simbamwenni, is situated.
Speke says, in 'Journal of the Discovery of the
Sources of the Nile,' p. 32 : " Where the Kingani itself
rises,' I never could find out ; though I have heard that ,
its source lies in a gurgling spring on the eastern face
of the Mkambaku ; by which account the Mgeta is
made the longer branch of the two." By whatever
name we distinguish this river — whether it be the Kin-
gani, or the Haradallah, as the Wamrima call it, or the
Rufu, as the Wakwere, Wakami, Wadoe, and Wase-
guhha call it — its source can be no longer matter of
conjecture. Speke has discovered that the Mgeta, one
of the two main branches, rises on the western slope of
the Mkambaku, and has seen it sweeping round the
south of Khutu. I have discovered that the second
main branch — called Ungerengeri — rises west of the
Mkambaku, or rather, the Uruguru mountains, and that
it sweeps northward through Useguhha and Udoe to
southern UJiwere, and Ukami, and thence into the Kin-
gani. This river by the natives is known as the Rufu
from the time it enters Ukwere, to its exit into the'
ocean tliree miles north of Bagamoyo. To the Arabs,
however, this river, from the point of confluence of the
several branches, is known as the Kin-rani. Undor tliat
name it will be best known to students of African tra-
vellers' maps.
The* highest altitude reached by our Expedition
between l^agamoyo and Simbamwenni in Useguhha,
did not exceed one thousand feet, and, excepting for a
Q 2
228
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
cone here and there visible to the north of Kingaru
Hera, and known as DiHma peaks, and in the neigh-
bourhood of Mikeseh, the land appears to rise gradually,
in a series of lengthy and parallel undulations, exten-
sively wooded, jungly, or in smooth grassy ridges, the
slopes falling easterly and westerly into depressions like
wave-troughs, by means of which the drainage is
carried southerly and south-westerly into the Unge-
^ rengeri.
Beyond Simbamwenni and westward of the Unge-
rengeri we suddenly front towering and isolated cones
with truncated summits, and these cones connected one
with another by means of low saddles, or ridges, to an
isolated group of mountains at least two thousand feet
above the Ungerengeri, at the base of which, on the
northern side of this stream, a lengthy, wooded ridge
sweeps easterly, separating the Ungerengeri from the
Wami.
This bold aspect of the country is most gratifying to
the eye of the stranger, who fancies that he is about to
ascend higher altitudes, and obtain immunity from the
fevers, which those ignorant of the nature of the
African interior attribute only to the jungles and
marshes of the maritime region.
In one march, however, from Simbamwenni by a pass
between tlie mountain group, we arrive at Simbo,
whence we may obtain a clear view of the broad valley
of the Great Makata, bounded by the high and bold
group at our backs, on the cast, by the glorious
mountain range of Usagara, whose bold peaks and
aspiring summits are buried in tlie clouds.
I have devoted much time to tlie elucidation of the
difference existing between the Kingani and the Wami
river. It is only after satisfying myself that I have
OEOORAPHICAL AND ETBNOQRAPHICAL REMARKS. 229
ventured to assert that the difference between these
rivers is clear and positive. Arabs, Wamrima and
natives, and my own personal knowledge of the country
and its superficial configuration, tend to establish be-
yond further doubt that the Kingani and the Wami are
two separate and entirely distinct rivers. The Kingani
enters the sea three miles north of Bagamoyo ; the
"Wami at nearly half-way between the ports of Whinde
and Sa'adani.
Tlie following plan will best illustrate the water-
system of this region :
We have found tliat the Ungerengeri flows south-
westerly to the Kingani, and from this point where we
stand (Simbo) the formation of the country is clearly
visible. On our right, as we turn our faces west, is
the valley of the Makata, or the Wami, flowing north-
ward and eastward ; on our left is the valley of the
Ungerengeri with the river flowing, after a bold sweep
northward, to the south-east. Our line of march
hither from Bagamoyo has been nearly cqui-distant
from each liver, wilh the Wami on our right and the
Ungerengeri, or the Kingani, on our left.
#
230
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
It will be seen, on reference to tlie above diagram,
how one and the same river bears three or four dis-
tinctly different names, and how very easily travellers
may be baffled in the pursuit of geographical informa-
tion. Like the Kingani with its series of different
designations, the river issuing into the sea between
the Mohammedan ports of Whinde and Sa'adani
is called the Wami, the Rudewa, the Makata, and the
Mukondokwa.
The first important stream which we find as we enter
the broad plain, or the valley of Makata, is the Little
Makata, which, though fordable at all seasons, becomes
a swift and dangerous river to travellers in the height
of the Masika season. After the Little Makata we
come to a deep nullah which overflows with water during
the rains, and a few hundred yards beyond we come
to the Great Makata — the TTami, or the Mukondokwa
— a stream capable of expanding into a mighty river
five or six hundred yards broad. Beyond the Great
Makata we come to the Mbengerenga, a branch of
the Rudewa, which here flows parallel with our
line of march, emptying into the Wami at or near
the confluence of the Great Makata with the Little
Makata. Crossing the Mbengerenga, we presently come
to another small branch of the Rudewa, and see the
Rudewa itself, as it approaches our road and whirls
round sharply to the east. Beyond this, as we turn
our faces south-west, we come to the Uronga, a river
rising in Mundu, northern Usagara, and, having
reached our camp at Rehenneko, we strike across an
angle of the mountains and arrive at the Makata again
under the name of the Mukondokwa, as it is called by
the Wasagara. Pursuing our way up the Mukondokwa
Pass, along the same route pursued by Capts. Burton
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETENOGRAPBICAL REMABKS. 231
and Speke, we arrive at a point in this valley where
our various routes diverge, that of Burton and Speke
leading up and along the summit of the Rubeho range,
ours inclining northward considerably, yet keeping
on a parallel line with their route with an interval of
from twenty to thirty miles between.
Burton, soon after leaving the valley of the Mukon-
dokwa, came to a plateau which " ended in a descent
with rapid slopes, over falls and steps of rock and
boulder, into the basin of the Rumuma river. It is a
southern influent, or a bifurcation of the Mukondokwa,
and it drains the hills to the south-west of the Rumuma
district, whereas the main stream arising in the high-
lands of the "Wahumba, or "Wamusai, carries off the
waters of the lands to the west."
Not eleven miles from the ford where Burton and
Speke's and my own route parted, I came to a. lake, the
Lake Ugombo, which, though of limited dimensions,
plays a small part in the water system of East Africa.
For this small lake, barely three miles in length, receives
the Rumuma and discharges it through a narrow chasm
into the Mukondokwa. " The main-stream does not
rise in the highlands of the Wahumba, or the Womusai,
nor does it carry the waters of the lands on the west ;"
but rises at least one degree north of the latitude of
Ugombo in the mountains of Kema Kaguru, in what is
known in Kisagara as Mundu, which is also the birth-
place of the stream Uronga, or Ulonga.
Among the other feeders of this Mukondokwa river
besides the Rumuma are the streams Rufuta and
Mdunku, which rise in Kivya, the jMyombo and
Mdunwi.
The " lands on the west " of the longitude of Rubcho
— at least, on our route — are drained by means of
232
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
nullahs, wliicli, on account of the general drought in
this dry region, fail to carry the water into any stream.
These nullahs, or dry water-courses, or deepened
fiumaras — which we in America would call gulches —
absorb all the water that flows into them from the
sterile regions beyond, or west of the Usagara moun-
tains. The Mukondokwa river runs from north to
south through the mountains of Usagara, thence swerv-
^ing easterly, serves to convey the waters discharged
into it by the Rufuta, Rumuma, Myombo, and Mdunwi,
easterly into the Indian Ocean.
The rainfall west of Usagara is so slight that the
sandy fiumaras, or gulches, seldom contribute any
water to the Rufiji river. For from westward of
Ugogi to Tura, in Unyamwezi, the drainage slopes
southwards into the Ruhwha, or the Rufiji River.
That sterile region, which comprises the northern
Marenga Mkali, the whole of Ugogo and southern
Uhumba, or Umasai, Iliange, and Mbogwe, have no
drainage. Whatever rain falls is received by the
shallow pools or small lakes, which dot the interior
of this region so thickly. During the dry season eva-
poration takes place, and the water is drained from
these pools by the steady north-east monsoons into
the grander reservoirs of the lakes occupied by the
Victoria N'Yanza, and thence into the Nile. After
the evaporation has taken place, the surface of this
sterile region exhibits large expanses of country
covered with saline incrustations, or with nitrate of
soda. Those visible west of Chaga, in the district of
Angaruka, the saline lagoons of Balibali, west of Kikui,
and those seen by myself north of Mizanza, must tend
to establish this theory.
Beyond Ugogo the only streams worth mentioning
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 23S
here are the Mdaburu and' the Mabunguru, which
flow southerly into the Kisigo, which is placed one
degree south of Kiwjeh. We are told that it is an
important stream, and swift, by the Wagogo of Kiwyeh,
and that it is haunted by numbers of hippopotami and
crocodiles. The Kisigo empties into the Rufiji.
Briefly it may be said of our march to TJnyanyembe
that its first stage was across the basin of the Kingani ;
the second, across the basin of the Wami ; the third,
across the water-shed of the Wami ; the fourth, across
the most northern portion of the basin of the Ruhwha,
and the waterless region ; and the fifth, into the borders
of the water- shed of the Lake Tanganika.
Now, the reader might ask — and yery properly
too — " What profiteth it all — these tiresome descrip-
tions of rivers, &c., with such odd, incomprehensible
names ?"
Patience ! reader ; that is precisely the point I was
about to arrive at. If you look at the map accom-
panying this book, you will perceive the suggestion
conveyed to you by my description of two particular
rivers.
First, it appears to me, that the Wami River is
available for commerce. I know that it can be navi-
gated with ease by light-draught steamers drawing two
or three feet — for a distance of two degrees rectilineally,
or nearly two hundred miles by water — from the port
of Whinde to Mbumi, Usagara. All impediments
to free navigation — such as the mangrove trees which
on either bank in some places, especially near Ki-
gongo's village, interlace their far-spreading branches
— could be easily removed by an axe.
Mbumi is within a couple of miles from the foot
of the Usagara mountains, the sanatoria of East Africa.
234
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The distance from Whinde to Mbiimi could with ease
be traversed by a steamer in four days.
Who wishes to civilize Africa ? Who wishes to
open trade direct with Usagara, Useguhha, Ukutu,
Uhehe ; to get the ivory, the sugar, the cotton, the
orcliilla-weed, the indigo, and the grain of these
countries ? Here is an opportunity !
Four days by steamer bring the missionary to the
healthy uplands of Africa, where he can live amongst
the gentle Wasagara without fear or alarm ; where he
can enjoy the luxuries of civilized life without fear
of being deprived of them, amid the most beautiful
and picturesque scenes a poetic fancy could imagine !
Here is the greenest verdure, purest water ; here are
valleys teeming with grain stalks, forests of tama-
rind, mimosa, gum-copal tree ; here is the gigantic
mvule, the stately mparamusi, the beautiful palm — a
scene such as only a tropic sky covers ! Health and
abundance of food are assured to the missionary ; gentle
people are at his feet ready to welcome him ! Except
civilized society, nothing that the soul of man can
desire is lacking here !
From the village of Kadetamare a score of admirable
mission sites are available, with fine health-giving
breezes blowing over them, water in abundance at
their feet, fertility unsurpassed around them, with
docile, good-tempered people dwelling everywhere at
peace with each other, and all travellers and neighbours.
As the passes of Olympus unlocked the gates of the
Eastern empire to the hordes of Othman ; as the passes
of Kumayle and Suru admitled the British into Abys-
sinia— so the passes of the Mukondokwa may admit the
Gospel and its beneficent influences into the heart of
savage Africa.
QEOGRAPHICAL AND ETENOGRAPEICAL REMARKS. 235
. I can fancy old Kadetamare rubbing his hands with
glee at the sight of the white man coming to teach his
people the words of the " Mulungu " — the Sky Spirit ;
how. to sow, and reap, and build houses ; how to cure
their sick, how to make themselves comfortable ; — in
short, how to be civilized. But the missionary, to -be
successful, must know his duties as well as a thorough
sailor must know how to reef, hand, and steer. He must
be no kid-glove, eifeminate man, no journal writer, no
disputatious polemic, no silken stole and chasuble-loving
priest — but a thorough earnest laborer in the garden of
the Lord — a man of the David Livingstone, or of the
Robert Moffatt stamp.
The other river, the Rufiji or Ruhwha, is a still more
important stream than the Wami. It is a much longer
rivSr, and discharges twice as much water into the
Indian Ocean. It rises near some mountains about
one hundred miles south-west of Ubena. Kisigo River,
the most northern and most important affluent of the
Ruhwha, is supposed to flow into it near E. longitude
35° ; from the confluence to the sea, the Ruhwha
has a length of 4° of direct longitude. This fact of
itself must prove its importance and rank among the
rivers of East Africa. Very little is known of it except
that it is navigable by small boats for eight tides, or
say sixty miles up ; that Banyans trade for this distance
up the river, and collect the ivory from the tribes ^n its
banks.
The traveller perceives a striking contrast between
the lower and upper regions, or the maritime and sterile
regions, in the growth of vegetation. In the valleys of
the Ungerongeri and Wami, the power of production
in the soil is remarkable. The rich black alluvial, the
deposit for many ages of these riyers, knows no bounds
236
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to its fertility. Every species of vegetation is shot up
to gigantic proportions. The grass stalks are enlarged
to the size of ordinary bamboo ; and the trees, such as
the mparamusi, and the mvule-trees, have stems a
hundred feet high. The Indian corn grown in these
valleys eclipses the finest crops in the bottom lands
of Arkansas, ^lissouri, and Mississippi. The holcus
sorghum, or matama, have stalks rivalling in thickness
the finest sugar-cane, and some reach to the height of
twelve feet. The density of the jungles is something
appalling, and the variety of species of plants and trees
would task the skill* of the most learned botanists to
class them.
In my diurnal accounts of our marches and expe-
riences I have attempted to sketch out the nature of the
country as it appeared to us during the time of transit.
Through the maritime region our transit occurred
during the Masika season, and as it progressed we were
enabled to observe its effect on the grasses.
"When the Masika season begins, these grasses hardly
ever appear above the knee ; but towards the end, they
have grown to their full height. A month after the
Masika, wlien they present quite a bleached appearance,
the natives set fire to them, and the country for days
afterwards, resounds with the roar of the fierce con-
flagrations, canopied by a thick curtain of black smoke,
whicli even lends its sombre coloring to the sky.
When these fires have raged througli the forests, and
have devoured the grass, then is the best time for tra-
velling. Progress is easy, and almost double the num-
ber of marches is effected, tlian while tlie grass presents
constant impediments, from its density and height. The
eye is then permitted to rove free over the swelling
contours and low knolls, without the glance being dis-
QEOGBAPHICAL AND ETHNOQEAPHICAL BEMAEKS. 237
turbed by a young forest of thick grasses directly be-
tween you and the pleasing prospect, over whose tops
only a man fifteen feet high could gratify his love of
natural scenery.
It were a difficult task to distinguish nice ethnical
differences between the Wamrima and the more occi-
dental \Yashensi. I am constantly wondering how Capt.
Burton has been able to draw his fine lines — which,
I must assure the reader, are imperceptible to ordinary
men like myself.
After Zanzibar, our debut into Africa is made vid
Bagamoyo. At this place we may see AVangindo, Wa-
sawahili, Warori, Wagogo, Wanyamwezi, Waseguhha,
and "Wasagara ; yet it would be a difficult task for any
person, at mere sight of their features or dresses, to note
the differences. Only by certain customs or distinctive
marks, such as tattooing, puncturing of the lobes of the
ears, ornaments, wearing the hair, &c., which would
appear at first too trivial to note, could one discriminate
between the various tribal representations. There are
certainly differences, but not so varied or marked as
they are reported.
The Wasawahili — of course through their intercourse
with semi-civilization — present us with a race, or tribe,
influenced by a state of semi-civilized society, and are,
consequently, better dressed, and appear to better ad-
vantage than their more savage brethren further west.
As it is said that underneath the Russian skin lies the
Tartar, so it may bo said that underneath the snowy
dish-dasheh, or shirt, of the Msawahili one will find the
true barbarian. In the street, or bazaar, he appears semi-
Arabized; his suavity of manner, his prostrations and
genuflexions, the patois he speaks, all prove his contact
and affinity with the dominant race, whose subject he is.
233
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Once out of the coast towns, in the Washensi villages,
he sheds the shirt that had half civilized him, and
appears in all his deep blackness of skin, prognathous
jaws, thick lips — the pure negro and barbarian. Kot
the keenest eve could detect a difference between him
and the Mshensi, unless his attention had been drawn
to the fact that the two men were of different tribes.
The next tribe to which we are introduced are the
Wakwere, who occupy a limited extent of country be-
tween the Wazaramo and the "Wadoe. They are the
first representatives of the pure barbarian the traveller
meets when but two days' journey from the sea-coast.
They are a timid tribe, and a very unlikely people to
commence an attack upon any body of men for mere
plunder's sake. They have not a very good reputation
among the Arab and Wasawahili traders. They are
said to be exceedingly dishonest, of which I have not
the least doubt. They furnished me with good grounds
for believing these reports while encamped at Kingaru-
Hera and Imbiki. The chiefs of the more eastern part
of Ukwere profess nominal allegiance to the Diwans of
the Mrima. They have selected the densest jungles
wherein to establish their villages. Every avenue into
one of their valleys is jealously guarded by strong
wooden narrow gates, seldom over 4i feet high, and so
narrow sometimes that one must enter sideways.
These jungle islets, which in particular dot the extent
of Ukwere, present formidable obstacles to a naked
enemy. The plants, bushes, and young trees which
form their natural defence are generally of tlie aloetic
and thorny species, growing so dense, interlaced one
with another, that the liardiest and most desperate
robber would not brave the formidable array of sharp
thorns which bristle everywhere.
OEOGRAPEICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 239
Some of these jungle islets are infested witli gangs of
banditti, who seldom fail to take advantage of the weak-
ness of a single wayfarer, more especially if he he a
Mgwana, a freeman of Zanzibar, as every negro re-
sident of the island of Zanzibar is distinguished by the
Washensi natives of the interior.
A OATE OF A VILLAGE
I should estimate the population of Ukwere, allowing
about 100 villages to this territory (wliicli is not more
than Ijiirty miles square, its bounds on the south being
the Rufu river, and on the north the river Wami), at
not more than 5000 souls. Were all these handed
together under the command of one chief, the Wakwere
might become a powerful tribe.
After the Wakwere we dome to the Wakami, a rem-
nant of a once grand nation which occupied the lands
from the Ungcreugeri to the Great Maiiata River.
Frequent wars with the Wadoe and the Waseguhha
240
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
have reduced them to a narrow belt of country, ten
rectihnear miles across, which may be said to be com-
prised between Kira Peak and the stony ridge bounding
the valley of the Ungerengeri on the east, within a
couple of miles from the east bank of the river.
They are as numerous as bees in the Ungerengeri
valley. Its unsurpassed fertility has been a great in-
ducement to retain for these people the distinction of a
tribe. By the means of a spy-glass one may see, as he
stands on that stony ridge looking down into the fair
valley, clusters of brown huts visible amid bosky clumps,
fulness and plenty all over the valley, and may count
easily over a hundred villages.
From Ukami we pass to Southern Udoe, and find a
warlike, fine-looking people, with a far more intelligent
cast of features, and a shade lighter than the Wakami
and Wakwere — a people who are full of traditions of
race, a people who have boldly rushed to war upon the
slightest encroachment upon their territories, and who
have bravely defended themselves against the Wase-
guhha and Wakami, as well as against nomadic
marauders from Uhumba.
Udoe, in appearance, is amongst the most picturesque
countries between the sea and Unyanyembe. Great
cones shoot upward above the everlasting forests,
tipped by the light fleecy clouds, through which the
warm glowing sun darts its rays, bathing the whole in
sunlight^ which brings out of those globes of foliage
which rise in tier after tier to the summits of the
hills, colors which would mock the most ambitious
painter's efforts at imitation, Udoe first evokes the
traveller's love of natural beauty after leaving the sea :
her roads lead him up along the sharp spines of hilly
ridges, Avheuce he may look down upon forest-clad
GEOOEAP'mCAL AXD ETESOGBAPEICAL REMARKS. 241
slopes, declining on either side of him inlo the depths
of deep valleys, to rise up bej^ond into aspiring cones
which kiss the sky, or into a hig]i ridge with deep
concentric folds, which almost tempt one to undergo
much labor in exploring them, for the provoking air of
mystery in which they seem to be enwrapped. Sup-
posing a Byron saw some of these scenes in Udoe, he
would be inclined to say, —
" Morn dawns ; and with it stem Udoe's hills,
Dark Uiniguru's rocks, and Kira's peak,
Robed half in mist, bedewed with various rills,
Arrayed in many a dun and purple streak."
And how true each word would be !
What a tale this tribe could relate of the slave-
traders' deeds ! Attacked by the joint forces of the
Waseguhha from the west and north, and the slave-
traders of Whinde and Sa'adani from the east, the
TVadoe have seen their wives and little ones carried
into slavery a hundred times, and district after district
taken from their country and attached to Useguliha.
For the people of Useguhha were hired to attack their
neighbours the "Wadoe by the Whinde slave-traders,
and were also armed with muskets and supplied with
ammunition by them to effect large and repeated cap-
tures of Wadoe slaves. The people of this tribe, espe-
cially women and children, so superior in physique and
intelligence to the servile races by which they were
surrounded, were eagerly sought for as concubines and
domestics by the lustful Mohammedans.
This tribe we first note to have distinctive tribal
marks — by a line of punctures extending lengthwise
on each side of the face, and a chij)ping of the two
inner sides of the two middle teeth of the upper row
The arms of this tribe are similar to the arms ot the
R
242
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Wakami and AVakwere, and consist of a bow and
arrows, a shield, a conple of light spears or assegais, a
long knife, a handy little - bnttleaxe, and a club with a
large knob at one end of it, which latter is dexterously
swung at the head of an enemy, inflicting a stunning
and sometimes a fatal blow
WEAPONS OF WAE
Emerging from the forests of Mikeseh we enter the
territory of the Waseguhha, or Wasegura,* as the
Arabs wrongly call this country. Useguhha extends
over two degrees in length, and its greatest breadth is
ninety geographical miles. It has two main divisions,
that of Southern Useguhha from Uruguru to the Wami
* All the interior tribes know this tribe fts the Wiisegnhha, and
none other. Burton adopts the Arabic corrupted term Wasegura.
Krapf, New, Wakefield and myself have adopted the native pronxm-
ciation, Waseguhha.
GEOOEAPIIICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 243
River, and Northern Useguhha, under the chieftain
Moto, from the Wami River to Umagassi and Usum-
bara.
In the rise of this tribe into prominence and power,
we have an example before us of the vicissitudes which
the barbarian races have experienced during ages.
Thirty years ago the Waseguhha were hmited to a
narrow belt of country between the Wasambara and
the Wadoe. The Wadoe were the supreme race east
of the Usagara mountains, but the slave-traders,
bringing ruin with them, betrayed them into the hands
of organized banditti, consisting of renegade Wamrima,
runaway slaves, offenders against the law of Zanzibar,
convicts, and kidnappers, which infested the forests
between Usagara and the sea. These bands made war
on some of the sub-tribes of the Wadoe, and since the
slaves of this tribe were in great demand, and were
readily bought owing to their beauty of form, their fine
physique and general superiority, these raids against
the tribe increased until in a few years the Wadoe were
almost driven entirely away from the fair valleys and
beauteous country of the Ungerengeri. Foremost
among these raiders was the notorious Kisabengo,
whom I have already traced through his nefarious
career, to the time of his establishing his stronghold,
Simbamwenni, near the Ungerengeri.
Mostly all the Waseguhha warriors are armed with
muskets, and the Arabs supply them with enough
ammunition, in return for which they attack Waruguru,
Wadoe, and Wakwenni, to obtain slaves for the Arab
market, and it is but five years since the Waseguhha
organized a successful raid into the very heart of the
Wasagara mountains, during which they desolated the
populated portions of the Makatji plain, capturing over
R 2
244
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
five hundred slaves. Formerly wars in this country
were caused by blood-feuds between different chief's ;
they are now encouraged by tlie slave-buyers of the
^frima, for the purpose of supplying these human
chattels for the market of Zanzibar.
The East African squadron has the power to crush
this hornet's nest, and stop the inhuman traffic in
slaves, so far as concerns Useguhha's ability to main-
tain it. Let a steam launch with fifty men on board be
detached for this service up the "Wami river. By
ascending the river as far as Kigongo's they would
arrive within twenty miles of the town of Simba-
mwenni, which could be marched in a night, and in
the morning they could attack and burn the place, and
break up this nucleus of the slave-trade in East Africa
at once and for ever. The Waseguhha, aided by the
slave-buyers, are the real scourge of this part of East
Africa, and once their stronghold was taken and
destroyed they would be powerless for evil.
The Waseguhha are about the most thorough be-
lievers in witchcraft, yet the professors of this dark
science fare badly at their hands. It is a very common
siglit to see cinereous piles on the roadside, and the
waving garments suspended to the branches of trees
above them, which mark the fate of the unfortunate
" waganga " or medicine men. So long as their pro-
dictions prove correct, and have a happy culmination,
these professors of " uchawi," magic arts, are regarded
with favor by th^ people ; but if an unusual calamity
overtakes a family, and they can swear that it is the
result of the magician's art, a quorum of relentless inqui-
sitors is soon formed, and a like fate to that which over-
took the " witches " in the dark days of New England
surely awaits him. Enough dead wood is soon found
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETENOGRAPEICAL REMARKS. 245
in their African forests, and the unhappy one perishes
by fire, and as a warning to all false professors of the
art, his loin-cloth is hung up to a tree above the spot
where he met his doom.
The Wasagara are mountaineers. The country which
they inhabit is the mountain ehain and its immediate
base, extending from the Makata River to the desert of
Marenga Mkali, a breadth of seventy-five geographical
miles, and a length of very nearly three degrees of
latitude.
The mountain range lies longitudinally in a north-by-
east direction. The highest peak may probably have
an elevation of about 6,000 feet above the sea. Mount
Kibwe must be about 2,500 feet above the Mukondokwa
Valley near Kadetamare, and Kadetamare must be
2,000 feet above the sea. But there are peaks in the
Nguru group near Ugombo which I should estimate
to be at least 1,500 feet higher than Mount Kibwe.
To the north, as we approach the range from the
Makata River, the mountains loom up more stupendous
and lofty than those contiguous to the Pass of the
Mukondokwa. On tlie tops and slopes of these moun-
tains the vapours drifted hither by the monsoon winds
shed their burden of water, and become rivers as the
streams trickle down the slopes and unite in the valleys
at their eastern base.
However much geographers may disagree with iiie,
my opinion is that .this chain of mountains is to East
Africa what the Rocky Mountains are to Central North
America. I regard it as the backbone of East Africa.
Travellers j)lace Kiliuia-Nj;iro in east longitude 37" 27',
and Mount Kenia in 37° 35' east, and 1 pla«e Mount
Kibwe in longitude 36'' 50'; and Burton believes tliat
this same mountain chain of Usagara has " its culmi-
246
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
nating apex in Njesa-TJhiyou." If the Euhwha Valley,
through which the Rufiji issues into the sea from the
highlands beyond, is only a gap in the Usagara range,
why is not the Mukondokwa Valley a gap ? Why
may not the low plain of Uhumba, or Masai, be a gap ?
Why should the Ngaserai Hills, the mountain group of
Kilima-Njaro, the snowy peak of Kenia, its southern
neighbour Doeno Camwea, and its northern neighbour
Msarara Mount, all heaving upward on the same
line of longitude, not belong to this same Usagara
Range ?
The same effect observable in the plains to the east
and the west of the Rocky Mountains is visible at
either base of the Usagara Range. In Western North
America it is well known that the Plain of Colorado,
Wyoming, and a large portion of Nebraska, on the
east, and that portion of Colorado and Utah at the
western base of the Rocky Mountains, do not appear to
possess that remarkable fertility observable near the
Missouri River and eastward, or west of Utah. These
denuded regions of America are from 500 to 800 miles
in breadth on either side of the Rocky Mountains, and
have a length of nearly 2,000 miles. But it must be re-
membered that the Rocky Mountains have an average
altitude of about 11,000 or 12,000 feet above the level
of the sea. Such gigantic physical features are not to
be seen in East Africa. I should estimate the average
altitude of the more easterly portion of the Usagara
Range to be about 3,500 feet above the sea level, while
the most westerly should be estimated at 1,000 feet
higher. The Makata Plain or Valley, east of Usagara,
has the . same denuded appearance that our western
plains have, and the region west of Usagara, embracing
the whole of Marenga Mkali and Ugogo, may be com-
GEOGBAPniCAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 247
pared, for the effect given by its denuded sterile
aspect and saline incrustations, to Utah and Western
Colorado.
But in Uyanzi, west of Ugogo, the country heaves
upward longitudinally into an altitude of about 1,000
feet higher than the plain of Ugogo, and the conse-
quence is that as they intercept the vapors borne
westward by the monsoons, they appear more pro-
ductive, second only in fertility to the Yulley of the
Mukondokwa. This sterile region, embracing the
Marenga Mkali, though it has only a breadth of about
100 to 150 geographical miles, has a length of about
600 geographical miles, perhaps more.
In Southern Usagara the people are most amiable ;
but in the north, in those districts adjacent to the
Wahumba, the people partake of the ferocious character
of their fierce neighbours. Repeated attacks from the
Waseguhha kidnappers, from the Wadirigo or Wahehe
robbers on the south-west, from the Wagogo on the
west, and from the Wahuml^a on the north — have
caused them to regard strangers with suspicion, but
after a short acquaintance they prove to be a frank,
amiable, and brave people. Indeed, they have good
cause to be distrustful of the Arabs and the Wangwana
of Zanzibar. Mbumi, Eastern Usagara, has been twice
burnt down within a few years by the Arab and
Waseguhha kidnappers ; Rehenneko has met the same
fate, and it is not many years ago since Abdullah bin
Nasib carried fire and sword from IMisonghi to
Mpwapwa. Kanyaparu, lord of the hills around
Chunyo, or Kunyo, once cultivated one-fourth of the
Marenga Mkali, but is now restricted to the hill-tops
from fear of the Wadirigo marauders.
In Eastern Usagara the broad distinctions which
248
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
mark the pure Wasagara from the "Waseguhha are not
to be seen. We first find them among the villages of
Mpwapwa. Here the long slender ringlets, ornamented
with brass and copper pendicles, balls, with bright pice
from Zanzibar, with a thin line of miniature beads
running here and there among the ringlets, are first
seen. A youthful Msagara, with a faint tinge of ochre
embrowning the dull black hue of his face, with four or
five bright copper coin ranged over his forehead, with
a tiny gourd's neck in each ear, distending his ear-
lobes, with a thousand ringlets well greased and orna-
mented with tiny bits of brass and copper, with a head
well thrown back, broad breast thrown well forward,
and muscular arms, and full-proportioned limbs, repre-
sents the beau-ideal of a handsome young African
savage.
OEOGRAPEICAL AND ETHNOQRAPEIOAL EEMAEKS. 249
The Wasagara, male and female, tattoo the forehead,
bosom, and arms. Besides inserting the neck of a
gourd in each ear — which carries his little store of " tum-
hac," or tobacco, and lime which he has obtained by
burning land shells — he carries quite a number of most
primitive ornaments around his neck, such as two or
three snowy cowrie-shells, carved pieces of wood, or a
small goat's horn, or some medicine consecrated by the
medicine-man of the tribe, a fundo of white or red
beads, or two or three pierced Sungomazzi egg-beads,
or a string of copper coin, and sometimes small brass
chains, like a Cheap Jack watch-chain. These things
they have either made themselves or purchased from
Arab traders for chickens or goats. The children all
go naked ; youths wear a goat or a sheep-skin ; grown
men and women, blessed with progeny, wear domestic,
or a loin-cloth of Kaniki, or a barsati, which is a
favourite coloured cloth in Usagara ; chiefs wear caps
such as are worn by the Wamrima Diwans, or the Arab
tarboosh.
Next on our line of march appear the Wagogo, a
powerful race inhabiting the region west of Usagara
to Uyarizi, which is about eighty miles in breadth, and
about one hundred in length. The traveller lias to
exercise great prudence, discretion, and judgment in
his dealings with them. Here he first hears the word
" honga," after passing Simbamwenni, a word which
signifies now, tribute, though it formerly meant a
present to a friend. Since it is exacted from him with
threats that if it is not paid, tiiey will make war on
him, its best interpretation would be, " force-extorted
tribute " or toll.
Tlie following are three routes through Ugogo, from
which the tr;i\ eller may tjike his choice, and the sum
250 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
of the tribute to be paid by a caravan of a hundred and
fifty men.
Northern.
Tribute.
Central.
Tribute.
Southern.
Tribute,
Cloths.
Cloths.
Cloths.
Mvumi
35
Mvumi ,
35
Kifukuru
25
TIT i. 1 -
Matamburu .
Munalata .
OK
150
Kisewah.
OA
oO
Bihawana
10
Mafanya
15
Kanyeni .
40
Kididimo .
26
Kanyenyi ,
50
Sanza
15
Pembera Pereh
30
Sanza .
15
Usekke .
21
Mizauza .
22
Khonse .
20
Khonko .
20
Miikoudoku .
32
Khonko
20
Kiwyeh .
27
Kiwyeh
27
179
197
178
These cloths are only paid by the up-caravans ; hoes
and ivory are generally taken by the return caravans.
Naturally, if the traveller desires to be mulcted of a
large sum, he will find the Wagogo ready to receive
every shred of cloth he gives them. Mvumi will
demand sixty cloths, and will wonder at his own mag-
nanimity in asking for such a small number of cloths
from a great Musuugu (white man). The traveller,
however, will be wise if he permits his chief men to
deal with them, after enjoining them to be careful, and
not to commit themselves too hastily to any number.
They are, physically and intellectually, the best of the
races between Unyamwezi and the sea. Their colour
is a rich dark brown. There is something in their
frontal aspect which is almost leonine. Their faces
are broad and intelligent. Their eyes are large and
round. Their noses are flat, and their mouths are very
large ; but their lips, though thick, are not so mon-
strously thick as those our exaggerated ideal of a negro
has. For all this, though the Mgogo is a ferocious man,
capable of proceeding to any length upon the slightest
OEOQBAPEIOAL AND ETENOGBAPHICAL REMARKS. 251
temptation, he is an attractive figure to a white
traveller. He is proud of his chief, proud of his
country, sterile and unloveable though it be ; lie is
proud of himself, his prowess, his weapons, and his
belongings; he is vain, terribly egotistic, a bully, and a
tyrant, yet the Mgogo is capable of forming friend-
ships, and of exerting himself for friendship s sake.
One grand vice in his character, which places him in a
hostile light to travellers, is his exceeding avarice, and
greed for riches ; and if the traveller suffers by this, he
is not likely to be amiably disposed towards him.
This sturdy native, with his rich complexion, his
lion front, menacing aspect, bullying nature, haughty,
proud, overbearing, and quarrelsome, is a mere child
with a man who will devote himself to the study of his
nature, and not offend his vanity. He is easily amused,
as his curiosity is easily aroused. A traveller with an
angular disposition is sure to quarrel with him ; but in
presence of this rude child of nature, especially when
he is so powerful, it is to his advantage and personal
safety to soften these angles of his own nature. The
Kigogo " Rob Roy " is on his native ground, and has a
decided advantage over the white foreigner. He is
not brave, but he is at least conscious of the traveller's
weakness, and he is disposed to take advantage of it,
but is prevented from committing an act because it is
for his interest to keep the peace. Any violence to a
traveller would close the road ; caravans would seek
other ways, and the chiefs would be deprived of much
of their revenue.
The Mgogo warrior carries as his weapons a bow,
and a sheaf of murderous-looking arrows, pointed,
pronged, and barbed ; a couple of light, beautifully-
made assegais, a broad sword-like spear, with a blade
252
HOW 1 FOUND LI FINOS TONE,
over two feet long ; a battle-axe, and a rungu, or knob-
club. He has also a shield, painted with designs in
black and white, oval-shaped, sometimes of rhinoceros,
or elephant, or bull-hide. From the time he was a
toddling urchin he has been familiar with his weapons,
and by the time he was fifteen years old he was an
adept with them.
He is armed for battle in a very short time. The
messenger from the chief darts from village to village
and blows his ox-horn, the signal for war. The warrior
hears it, throws his hoe over his shoulder, enters his
house, and in a few seconds issues out again, arrayed
in war paint, and full fighting costume. Feathers of
the ostrich, or the eagle, or the vulture, nod above his
head ; his long crimson robe streams behind him, his
shield is on his left arm, his darting assegai in his left
hand, and his ponderous man-<;leaver — double-edged
and pointed, heading a strong staff — is in his right
hand ; jingling bells are tied around his ancles and
knees ; ivory wristlets are on his arms, with which 'he
sounds his approach. With the plodding peasant's hoe
he has dropped the peasant's garb, and is now the
proud, vain, exultant warrior — bounding aloft like a
gymnast, eagerly sniffing the battle-field.
The strength and power of the Wagogo are derived
from their numbers. Though caravans of Wagogo
sometimes are found passing up and down along the
Unyamw^ezi road, they are not so generally employed
as the NVanyamwezi in trade. Their villages are thus
always full of warriors. Weak tribes, or remnants of
tribes, are very glad to be admitted under their pro-
tection. Individuals of other tribes, also, who have
been obliged to exile themselves from their own tribes,
for some deed of violence, are often found in the
*
GEOGBAPEICAL AND ETHXOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 253
villages of the Wagogo. In the north, the "Wahumba
are very numerous; in tlie south may be found the
Wahehe and Wakinibu, and in the east may be found
many a family from Usagara. Wanyamwezi are also
frequently found in this country. Indeed these latter
people are like Scotchmen, they may be found almost
everywhere throughout Central Africa, and have a
knack of ptishing themselves into prominence.
As in Western Usagara the houses of the Wagogo
are square, arranged around the four sides of an area —
to which all the doors open. The roofs are all fiat,
DIRD's-EYK VlliW OF A TIOMBE.
on Avliicli are spread the grain, lierbs, tobacco, and
pumpkins. The back of each apartment is })ierced with
small holes for observation and for defence.
The tenibe is a fragile affair as constructed inUgogo;
it merely consists of a line of slender sticks daubed
over with mud, with three or four strong poles planted
254
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
at intervals to support the beams and rafters on which
rests the flat clay roof. A musket-ball pierces the
wattled walls of a Kigogo tembe through and through.
In Uyanzi the tembe is a formidable affair, because of
the abundance of fine trees, which are cut down and
split into rails three or four inches thick.
The tembe is divided into apartments, separated from
each other by a wattled wall. Each apartment may
contain a family of grown-up boys and girls, who form
their beds on the floor out of dressed hides. The father
of the family, only, has a kitanda, or fixed cot made of
oxhide stretched over a frame, or of the bark of the
myombo tree. The floor is of tamped mud, and is
exceedingly filthy, smelling strongly of every abomina- .
tion. In the corners, suspended to the rafters, are the
fine airy dwellings of black spiders of very large size,
and other monstrous insects.
Rats, a peculiarly long-headed, dun-colored species,
infest every tembe. Cows, goats, sheep, and cats are
the only domestic animals permitted to dwell within
the tembe. The dogs (the pariah breed) lodge outside
with the cattle.
The Wagogo believe in the existence of a god, or sky
spirit, whom they call Mulungu. Their prayers are gene-
rally directed to him, when their parents die. A Mgogo,
after he has consigned his father to the grave, collects his
father's chattels together, his cloth, his ivory, his knife,
his jembe (lioe), his bows and arrows, his spears, and his
cattle, and kneels before them repeating a wish that Mu-
lungu would increase his worldly wealth, that he would
bless his labours, and make him successful in trade.
The following conversation occurred between myself
and a Mgogo trader :
" Who do you suppose made your parents?"
*' Why, Mulun-gu, white man !"
•
OEOGRAPHICAL AND ETENOQRAPEICAL EEMARKS. 255
" "Well, who made vou ?"
" If God made my father, God made me, didn't he?"
" That's very good. Where do you suppose your
father is gone to, now that he is dead ?"
" The dead die," said he, solemnly : " they are no
more. The sultan dies, he becomes nothing — he is then
no better than a dead dog, he is finished, his words are
finished — there are no wofds from him. It is true," he
added, seeing a smile on ray face, " the sultan becomes
nothing. He who says other words is a liar. There !"
" But then he is a very great man, is he not ?"
" While he lives only — after death he goes into the
pit, and there is no more to be said of him than of any
• other man."
" How do you bury a Mgogo ?"
" His legs are tied together, his right arm to his
body, and his left is put under his head. He is then
rolled on his left side in the grave. His cloth he wore
during his life is spread over him. We put the earth
over him, and put thorn bushes over it to prevent the
fizi (hyaena) from getting at him. A woman is put
on her right side in a grave apart from the man.''
" What do you do with the sultan when he is dead ? "
"We bury him too, of course, only he is buried in
the middle of the villao-e, and we build a house over
it. Each time they kill an ox, they kill before his
grave. When the old sultan dies, the new one calls for
an ox, and kills it before his grave, calling on Mulungu
to witness that he is the rightful sultan. He then
distributes the meat in his father's name."
" Who succeeds the sultan. Is he the eldest son ?"
" Yes, if he has a son ; if childless, the great chief
next to him in rank. The msagira is the next to
the sultan, whose business it is to hear the cause of
♦
266 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
complaint and convey it to the sultan, who, through the
sultan, dispenses justice ; he receives the honga, carries
it to the mtemi (sultan), places it before him, and
when the sultan has taken what he wishes, the rest
goes to the msagira. The chiefs are called manya-para ;
the msagira is the chief manya-para."
" How do the "Wagogo marry ?"
" Oh, they buy their women."
" "What is a woman worth ?"
" A very poor man can buy his wdfe from her father
for a couple of goats."
" How much has the sultan got to pay?"
" He has got to pay about one hundred goats, or so
many cows, so many sheep and goats, to his bride's father.
Of course he is a chief. The sultan would not buy a
common woman. The father's consent is to be obtained,
and the cattle have to be given up. It takes many
days to finish the talk about it. All the family and
friends of the bride have to talk about it before she
leaves her father's house."
" In cases of murder, what do you do to the man
who kills another ?"
" The murderer has to pay fifty cows. If he is too
poor to pay, the sultan gives his permission to the
murdered man's friends or relatives to kill him. If
they catch him, they tie him to a tree, and throw spears
at him — one at a time first : they then spring on him,
cut his bead off, then his arms, and limbs, and scatter
them about the countr}-."
How do you punish a thief?"
" If he is found stealing, lie is killed at once, and
nothing is said about it. Is he not a thief?"
" But suppose you do not know who the thief is?"
" If a man is brought before us accused of stealing,
OEOGRAPEICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 257
we kill a chicken. If the entrails are white, he is
innocent — if yellow, lie is guilty."
*' Do you believe in witchcraft ?"
*' Of course we do, and punish the man with death
if he bewitches cattle, or stops rain."
Next to Ugogo is Uyanzi, or the " Magunda IVIkali "
— the Hot Field. In former days before the Magunda
Mkali was inhabited by emigrants from Ukimbu, carriers
complained of the excessive heat and thirst they suffered
during its transit. Water was scarce on the route they
adopted, and the all-day marches were frequent : hence
it was termed by the "Wanyamwezi pagazis the "Hot
Field."
Uyanzi, or Magunda Mkali, is at present veiy
populous. Along the northern route — that leading
vid Munieka — water is plentiful enough, villages are
frequent, and travellers begin to perceive that the title
is inappropriate. The people who inhabit the country
are Wakimbu from the south. They are good agricul-
turists, and are a most industrious race. They are some-
thing like the Wasagara in appearance, but do not
obtain a very high reputation for bravery. Their
weapons consist of light spears, bows and arrows, and
battle-axes. Their tembes are strongly' made, showing
considerable skill in the art of defensive constructions.
Their bomas are so well made, that one would require
cannon to effect an entrance, if the villages were at all
defended. They are skilful also in constructing traps
for elephants and buffaloes. A stray lion or leopard is
sometimes caught by them.
After marching through Magimda Mkali, we come
to Unyamwezi, or the Land of the Moon ; but I shall
leave a description of the people inhabiting this in-
teresting district to a future chapter.
B
VIEW IN FEONT OF 51Y TUMBE.
CHAPTEE VIII.
LIFE IN UNTANYEMBB.
I RECEIVED a noiseless ovation as I walked side hj
side with the governor, Sayd bin Salim, towards
his tembe in Kwilvuru, or the cai)ital. The Wanyam-
wezi pagazis were out by hundreds, the warriors of
Mkasiwa, the sultan, hovered around their chief, the
children — naked dusky cherubs — were seen between the
legs of tlieir parents, even infants, a few months old,
slung over their mothers' backs, all paid the tribute
due to my color, with one grand concentrated stare.
The only persons who talked with me were the Arabs,
and aged Mkasiwa, ruler of Unyanyembe.
Sayd bin Salim's house w^as at tlie north-western
corner of the inclosure, a stockaded boma of Kwikuru.
JuxE, ]8:i.] LIFE IN UNTANTEMBE. 259
"We had tea made in a silver tea-pot, and a bountiful
supply of " dampers " were smoking under a silver
cover ; and to this repast I was invited. When a man
has walked eight miles or so without any breakfast,
and a hot-tropical sun has been shining on him for three
or four hours, he is apt to do justice to a meal, especially
if his appetite is healthy. I think I astonished the
governor by the dexterous way in which I managed
to consume eleven cups of his aromatic concoction of an
Assam hetb, and the easy effortless style with which I
demolished his high tower of " slap-jacks," that but a
minute or so smoked hotly under their silver cover.
For the meal, I thanked the Sheikh, as only an earnest
and sincerely hungry man, now satisfied, could thank
him. Even if I had not spoken, my gratified looks
had well informed him, under what obligations I had
been laid to him.
Out came my pipe and tobacco-pouch.
" My friendly Sheikh, wilt thou smoke ?"
" No, thanks ! Arabs never smoke."
'* Oh, if you don't, perhaps you would not object to
me smoking, in order to assist digestion ?"
" Nghema — good — go on, master." Then began the
questions, the gossipy, curious, serious, hght questions :
" How came the master ?"
" By the Mpwapwa road."
'* It is good. "Was the Makata bad ?"
" Very bad."
""What news from Zanzibar?"
*' Good ; Syed Toorkee has possession of Muscat, and
Azim bin Ghis was slain in the streets.
"Is this true, Wallahi ?" (by God.)
" It is true."
Heh-heh-h ! This is news ;" — stroking his beard.
s 2
260
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
" Have you heard, master, of Suleiman bin Ali ?"
" Yes, the Bombay governor sent him to Zanzibar, in
a man-of-war, and Suleiman bin Ali now lies in the
gurayza (fort)."
" Heh, that is very good."
" Did you have to pay much tribute to the AYagogo ?"
" Eight times ; Hamed Kimiani wished me to go by
Kiwyeh, but I declined, and struck through the forest
to Munieka. Hamed and Thani thought it better to
follow me, than brave Kiwyeh by themselves''
" Where is that Hajji Abdullah that came here, and
Spiki r
"Hajji Abdullah! What Hajji Abdullah? Ah!
Sheikh Burton we call him. Oh, he is a great man
now ; a balyuz, at El Scham."
" Heh-heh ; balyuz ! Heh, at El Scham ! Is not that
near Betlem el Kudis ?"
" Yes, about four days. Spiki is dead. He shot him-
self by accident."
"Ah, ah. Wallah (by Grod), but this is bad news.
Spiki dead ? Mash- Allah ! Ough, he was a good man —
a good man ! Dead !"
" But where is this Kazeh, Sheikh Sayd ?"
" Kazeh ? Kazeh ? I never heard the name before."
But you were with Burton, and Speke, and the
other man, Grant, at Kazeh ; you lived there several
months, when you were all stopping in Unyanyembe ;
it must be close here somewhere. Where did Hajji
Abdullah and Spiki live when they were in Unyan-
yembe ? Was it not in Musa Mzuri's house ?"
" That was in Tabora "
Well, then, where is Kazeh ? I have never seen the
man yet who could tell me where that place is, and yet
the three white men have that word down, as the
June, 1871.]
LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
261
name of the place they lived at when you were with
them. You must know where it is."
" Wallahi, bana, I never heard the name ; but stop,
Kazeh, in Kinyamwezi, means ' kingdom.' Perhaps they
gave that name to the place they stopped at. But then,
I used to call the first house Sny bin Amer's house,
and Speke and G-rant lived at Musa ]\Izuri's house, but
both houses, as well as all the rest, are in Tabora."
" Thank you, Sheikh. I should like to go and look
after my people ; they must all be wanting food."
" I shall go with you to show you your house. The
tembe is in Kwihara, only an hour's walk from Tabora."
On leaving Kwikuru we crossed a low ridge, and
soon saw Kwihara lying between two low ranges of
hills, the northernmost of which was terminated west-
, ward by the round fortress-like hill of Zimbili. There
was a cold glare of intense sunshine over the valley,
probably the effect of an universal bleakness or an
autumnal ripeness of the grass, unrelieved by any
depth of color to vary the universal sameness. The
hills were bleached, or seemed to be, under that dazzling
sunshine, and clearest atmosphere. The corn had
long been cut, and there lay the stubble, and fields, — a
browny-white expanse ; the houses were of mud, and
their flat roofs were of mud, and the mud was of a
browny-whiteness ; the huts were thatched, and the
stockades around them of barked timber, and these were
of a browny whiteness. The cold, fierce, sickly wind
from the mountains of Usagara sent a deadly chill to
our very marrows, yet the intense sunshiny glare never
changed, a black cow or two, or a tall tree here and
there, caught the eye for a moment, but they never
made one forget that the first impression of Kwihara
was as of a picture without color, or of food without
262
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
taste ; and if one looked up, there was a skj of a pale
blue, spotless, and of an awful serenity.
As I approached the tembe of Sayd bin Salim, Sheikh
bin Nasib and other great Arabs joined us. Before the
great door of the tembe the men had stacked the bales,
and piled the boxes, and were using their tongues at a
furious rate, relating to the chiefs and soldiers of the
first, -second, and fourth caravans, the many events
which had befallen them, and which seemed to them
the only things worth relating. Outside of their own
limited circles they evidently cared for nothing. Then
the. several chiefs of the other caravans had in turn to
relate their experiences of the road ; and the noise of
tongues was loud and furious. But as we approached, all
this loud-sounding gabble ceased, and my caravan chiefs
and guides rushed to me to hail me as " master," and to .
salute me as their friend. One fellow, faithful Baruti,
threw himself at my feet, the others fired their guns and
acted like madmen suddenly become frenzied, and a
general cry of '* welcome " was heard on all sides.
" Walk in, master, this is your house, now ; here are
your men's quarters ; here you will receive the great
Arabs, here is the cook-house, here is the store-house ;
here is the prison for the refractory ; here are your white
man's apartments ; and these are your own : see, here is
the bedroom, here is the gun-room, bath-room, (fee. ;" so
Sheikh Sayd talked, as he showed me the several places.
On my honor, it was a most comfortable place, this,
in Central Africa. One could almost wax poetic, but
we will keep such ambitious ideas for a J'uture day.
Just now, however, we must have the goods stored, and
the little army of carriers paid off and disbanded.
Bombay was ordered to unlock the strong store-
room, to pile the bales in regular tiers, the beads in
June, 1871.]
LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
263
rows one above another, and the wire in a separate
place. The boats, canvas, &c., were to be placed high
aboVe reach of white ants, and the boxes of ammunition
and powder kegs were to be stored in the gun-room,
out of reach of danger. Then a bale of cloth was
opened, and each carrier was rewarded according to
his merits, that each of them might proceed home to
his friends and neighbours, and tell them how much
better the white man behaved, than the Arabs.
The reports of the leaders of the first, second, and
fourth caravans were then received, their separate
stores inspected, and the details and events of their
marches heard. The first caravan had been engaged in
a war at Kirurumo, and had come- out of the fight
successful, and had reached Unyanyembe without loss
of afiything. The second had shot a thief in the
forest between Pembera Pereh and Kididimo ; the
fourth had lost a bale in the jungle of Marenga Mkali,
and the porter who carried it had received a " very
sore head" from a knob stick wielded by one of the
thieves, who prowl about the jungle near the frontier
of Ugogo. I was delighted to find that their mis-
fortunes were no more, and each leader was then and
there rewarded with one handsome cloth, and five doti
of Merikani.
Just as I began to feel hungry again, came several
slaves in succession, bearing trays full of good things
from the Arabs ; first an enormous dish of rice, witli a
bowlful of curried cliicken, another with a dozen huge
wheaten cakes, another with a plateful of smoking hot
crullers, another with papaws, another with pome-
granates and lemons ; after these came men driving
five fat hump-backed oxen, eight sheep, and ten goats,
and another man came with a dozen chickens, and a
264
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
dozen fresh eggs. This was real, practical, noble
courtesy, munificent hospitality, which quite took my
gratitude by storm.
My people, now reduced to twenty-five, were as
delighted at the prodigal plenitude visible on my tables
and in my yard, as I was myself. And, as I saw their
eyes light up at the unctuous anticipations presented to
them by their riotous fancies, I ordered a bullock to be
slaughtered and distributed.
The second day of the arrival of the "New York
Herald Expedition " in tlie country which I now looked
upon as classic ground, since Capts. Burton, Speke, and
Grant years ago had visited it, and described it, came
the Arab magnates from Tabora to congratulate me.
Tabora* is the principal Arab settlement in Central
Africa. It contains over a thousand huts and tefnbes,
and one may safely estimate the population, Arabs,
Wangwana, and natives, at five thousand people.
Between Tabora and the next settlement, Kwihara,
rise two nigged hill ridges, separated from each other
by a low saddle, over the top of which Tabora is always
visible from Kwihara.
They were a fine, handsome body of men, these
Arabs. They mostly hailed from Oman ; others were
Wasawahili ; and each of my visitors had quite a re-
tinue with him. At Tabora they live quite luxuriously.
The plain on which the settlement is situated is exceed-
ingly fertile, though naked of trees ; the rich pasturage
it furnishes permits them to keep large herds of cattle
and goats, from which they have an ample supply of
milk, cream, butter, and ghee. Rice is grown every-
where, sweet potatoes, yams, muhogo, holcus sorghum,
maize, or Indian corn, sesame, millet, field peas, or
* There is no such rccoguiscd place as Kazoh.
JlTNE, ] 871.]
LIFE IN UNYANTEMBE.
265
vetches, called clioroko, are cheap, and always pro-
curable. Around their tembes the Arabs cultivate a
little wheat for their own purposes, and have planted
orange, lemon, papaw, and mangoes, which thrive here
fairly well. Onions and garlic, cliilies, cucumbers,
tomatoes, and binijalls, may be procured by the white
visitor from the more important Arabs, who are un-
doubted epicureans in their way. Their slaves convey
to them from the coast, once a year at least, their stores
of tea, coffee, sugar, spices, jellies, curries, wine, brandy,
biscuits, sardines, salmon, and such fine cloths and
articles as they require for their own personal use.
Aloio^t every Arab of any eminence is able to show a
wealth of Persian carpets, and most luxurious bedding,
complete tea and coffee services, and magnificently
carved dishes of tinned copper and Inass lavers.
Several of them sport gold watches and chains, mostly
all a watch and chain of some kind. And, as in Persia,
Afghanistan, and Turkey, the harems form an essential
feature of every Arab's household, the sensualism of the
Mohammedans is as prominent here as in the Orient.
Each Arab, according to his means, maintains a troop of
concubines, for the pruriency of his animal nature must
be gratified here as in the " City of Victory." The eye
that at first despised the unclassic face of the black woman
of Africa soon loses its regard for fine lines and mellow
pale color ; it finds itself ere long lingering wantonly
over the inharmonious and heavy curves of a negroid
form, and looking lovingly on the broad, unintellectual
face, and into jet eyes that never flash with the dazzling
, lovelight that makes poor humanity beautiful.
The Arabs who now stood before the front door
of my temhe were the donors of the good things
received the day before. As in duty bound, of course,
266
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
I greeted Sheikli Sayd first, then Sheikh bin Nasib,
his Highness of Zanzibar's consul at Karagwa, then I
greeted the noblest Trojan amongst the Arab popula-
tion, noblest in bearing, noblest in courage and mjinly
worth — Sheikh Khamis bin Abdullah ; then young
Amram bin Mussoud, who is now making war on the
king of Urori and his fractious people ; then handsome,
courageous Soud, the son of Sayd bin Majid ; then
dandified Thani bin Abdullah ; then Mussoud bin
Abdullah, and his cousin Abdullah bin ^lussoud, who
own the houses where formerly lived Burton and
Speke ; then old Suliman Dowa, Sayd bin Sayf, and
the old Hetman of Tabora — Sheikh Sultan bin Ali.
As the visit of these magnates, under whose loving-
protection white travellers must needs submit them-
selves, was only a formal one, such as Arab etiquette,
ever of the stateliest and truest, impelled them to, it
is unnecessary to relate the discourse on my health, and
their wealth, my thanks, and their professions of loyalty,
and attachment to me. After having expended our
mutual stock of congratulations and nonsense, they
departed, having stated their wish that I should visit
them at Tabora and partake of a feast which they were
about to prepare for me.
Three days afterwards I sallied out of my terabe, es-
corted by eighteen bravely dressed men of my escort, to
pay Tabora a visit. On surmounting the saddle over
which the road from the valley of Kwihara leads to Ta-
bora, the plain on which the Arab settlement is situated,
lay before us, one expanse of dun pasture land, stretch-
ing from the base of the hill on our left as far as the banks
of the northern Gombe, which a few miles beyond Tabora
heave into purple-coloured hills and blue cones.
Within three quarters of a'h hour we were seated on
June, 1871,]
LIFE IN VNYANIEMBE.
2G7
the mud veranda of the tembe of Sultan bin Ali, who,
because of his age, his wealth, and position — being
a colonel in Syed Burghash's unlpvely army — is looked
upon .by his countrymen, high and low, as referee and
counsellor. His boma-or enclosure contains quite a
village of hive-shaped huts and square tembes. From
here, after being presented with a cup of Mocha coffee,
and some sherbet, we directed our steps towards
Khamis bin Abdullah's house, who had, in anticipation
of my coming, prepared a feast to which he had invited
his friends and neighbours. The group of stately Arabs
in their long white dresses, and jaunty caps, also of
a snowy white, who stood ready to welcome me to
Tabora, produced quite an effect on my mind. I was
in time for a council of war they were holding — and I
was requested to attend — Selira, my Arab interpreter,
forming one of the number.
Khamis bin Abdullah, a bold and brave man, ever
ready to stand up for the privileges of the Arabs, and
their riglits to pass through any countries for legitimate
trade, is the man ^vho, in Speke's ' Journal of the
Discovery of the Source of the Nile,' is reported to
have shot Maula, an old chief who sided with Manwa
Sera during the wai's of 1860 ; and who subsequently
after chasing his relentless enemy for five years through
Ugogo and Unyamwezi as far as Ukonongo, had the
satisfaction of beheading him, was now urging the
Arabs to assert their rights against a chief called
Mirambo of Uyoweh, in a crisis which was advancing.
This Mirambo of Uyoweh, it seems, had, for the last
few years, been in a state of chronic discontent with the
policies of the neighbouring chiefs. Formerly a pagazi
for an Arab, he had now assumed regal power, with the
usual knack of unconscionable rascals who care not by
268
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
what means they step into power. TVhen the chief of
Uyoweh died, Mirambo, who was head of a gang
of robbers infesting the forests of Wilyanknru, suddenly
entered Uyoweh, and constituted himself lord para-
mount by force. Some feats of enterprise, which he
performed to the enrichment of all those who recognised
his authority, established him firmly in his position.
This was but a beginning ; he carried war through TJgara
to TJkonongo, through Usagozi to the borders of Uvinza,
and after destroying the populations over three degrees
of latitude, be conceived a grievance against Mkasiwa,
and against the Arabs, because they would not sustain
him in his ambitious projects against their ally and
friend, with whom they were living in peace.
The first outrage which this audacious man committed
against the Arabs was the halting of an Ujiji-bound
caravan, and the demand for five kegs of gunpowder,
five guns, and five bales of cloth. This extraordinary
demand, after expending more than a day in fierce
controversy, was paid ; but the Arabs, if they were
surprised at the exorbitant black-mail demanded of
them, were more than ever surprised when they were
told to return the way they came ; and that no Arab
caravan should pass through his country to Ujiji except
over his dead body.
On the return of the unfortunate Arabs to Unyan-
yembe, they reported the facts to Sheikh Sayd bin
Salim, the governor of the Arab colony. This old
man being averse to war, of course tried every means
to induce Mirambo as of old to be satisfied with
presents, but Mirambo, this time was obdurate, and
sternly determined on war unless the Arabs aided him
in the warfare he was about to wage against old
Mkasiwa, sultan of the "Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe.
June, 1871.] LIFE IN UNTANTEMBE. 269
" This is the status of affairs," said Khamis bin Ab-
dullah. " Mirambo says : that for years he has been
engaged in war against the neighbouring Washensi
and has come out of it victorious, he says this is a great
year with him ; that he is going to fight the Arabs, and
the Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe, and that he shall
not stop until every Arab is driven from Unyanyembe,
and he rules over this country in place of Mkasiwa.
Children of Oman, shall it be so ? Speak, Salim, son
of Sayf, shall we go to meet this Mshensi (pagan) or
shall we return to oiir island ?"
A murmur of approbation followed the speech of
Khamis bin Abdullah, the majority of those present
being young men eager to punish the audacious
Mirambo. Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch,
slow of speech, tried to appease the passions of the
young men, scions of the aristocracy of Muscat and
Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the Desert, but Khamis's
bold words had made too deep an impression on their
minds.
Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed
already as the son of Sayd the son of Majid, spoke :
" My father used to tell me that he remembered the days
when the Arabs could go througli the country from
Bagamoyo to Ujiji, and from Kilwa to Lunda, and
from Usenga to Uganda armed with canes. Tliose
days are gone by. TVe have stood the insolence of the
Wag(%o long enough. Swaniru of Usui just takes
from us whatever he wants ; and now, here is Mirambo,
who says, after taking more than five bales of cloth
as tribute from one man, that no Arab caravan shall
go to Ujiji, but over his body. Are we prepared to
give up the ivory of Ujiji, of Urundi, of Karagwah,
of Uganda, because of this one man ? I say war — war
270
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
until we have got his beard under our feet — war until
the whole of Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is destroyed — war
until we can again travel through any part of the country
with only our walking canes in our hands !"
The universal assent that followed Soud's speech
proved beyond a doubt that we were about to have a
war. I thought of Livingstone. What if he were
marching to Unyanyembe directly into the war country ?
Having found from the Arabs that they intended
to finish the war quickly — at most within fifteen
days, as Uyoweh was only four marches distant — I
volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded cara-
van with me as far as Mfuto, and there leave it in
charge of a few guards, and with the rest march on
with the Arab army. And my hope was, that it might
be possible, after the defeat of Mirambo, and his forest
banditti — the Ruga-Ruga — to take my Expedition direct
to Ujiji by the road now closed. The Arabs wQre
sanguine of victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm.
The council of war broke, up. A great dishful of
rice and curry, in which almonds, citron, raisins, and
currants were plentifully mixed, was brought in, and it
was wonderful how soon we forgot our warlike fervor
after our attention had been drawn to this royal dish.
I, of course, not being a Mohammedan, had a dish of
my own, of a similar composition, strengthened by
platters containing roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers,
cakes, sweetbread, fruit, glasses of sherbet and len^bnade,
dishes of gum-drops and ^Nluscat sweetmeats, dry raisins,
prunes, and nuts. Certainly Khamis bin Abdullah
proved to me that if he had a warlike soul in him, he
could also attend to the cultivated tastes acquired
under the shade of the mangoes on his father's estates in
Zanzibar — the island.
June, 1871.]
LIFE IN UNYANTEMBE.
271
After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties,
some of the chief Arabs escorted me to other tembes
of Tabora. When we went to visit Mussoud bin
Abdullah, lie showed me the very ground where
Burton and Speke's house stood — now pulled down
and replaced by his office — Sny bin Amer's house was
also torn down, and the fashionable tembe of Unyan-
yembe, now in vogue, built over it, — finely-carved
rafters — huge carved doors, brass knockers, and lofty
airy rooms, a house built for defence and comfort.
The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram
bin Mussoud, who paid sixty frasilah of ivory — over
$3,000 — for it. Very fair houses can be purchased for
from twenty to thirty frasilah of ivory. Amram's
house is called the " Two Seas " — " Baherein." It is
one hundred feet in length, and twenty feet high, with
walls four feet thick, neatly plastered over with mud
mortar. The great door is a marvel of carving-work
for Unyanyembe artisans. Each rafter within is also
carved with fine designs. Before the front of the house
is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, which
flourish here as if they were indigenous to the soil. A
shadoof, such as may be seen on the Nile, serves to
draw water to irrigate the gardens.
Towards evening we walked back to our own finely
situated tembe in Kwihara, well satisfied with what we
had seen at Tabora. My men drove a couple of oxen,
and carried three sacks of native rice — a most superior
kind — the day's presents of hospitality from Khamis bin
Abdullah.
In Unyanyembe I found the Liyingstone caravan,
which readers must remember I said started off in a
fright upon the mefe rumour that Kirk, the English
"balyuz," was coming. As all the caravans were now
272
HOW I FOTJND LIVINGSTONE.
halted at Unyanyembe because of the now approaching
war, I suggested to Sayd bin Sahm, that it were better
that the men of the Livingstone caravan should live
with mine in my tembe, that I might watch over the
white man's goods. Of course since Dr. Kirk had never
asked me or authorized me to take charge of Living-
stone's goods, I could not interfere with the governor
or the caravan. Fortunately Sayd bin Salim agreed
with me, and the men and goods were at once brought
to my tembe.
One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone's
caravan, the other having died of small-pox, two or
three days before, brought out a tent to the veranda
where I was sitting writing, and shewed me a packet
of letters, which to my surprise was marked : —
" To Dr. Livingstone,
" Ujiji,
"November 1st, 1870.
" Registered letters."
Here was the best evidence in the world that the
letters were sealed up in that packet on the date men-
tioned on the bag. From November 1st, 1870, to
February 10th, 1871, just one hundred days, at Baga-
moyo ! A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men
halting one hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five
miles by water from Zanzibar ! Poor Livingstone ! Who
knows but he may be suffering for want of these very
supplies that have been detained so long within easy
reach of the British Consulate, and will be detained
here in Unyanyembe, now, God knows how long !
The caravan arrived in Unyanyembe sometime about
the middle of May. About the latter part of May the
•
Jm.T,.lS7].] LIFE IX VXTAXYEMBE. 273
first disturbances took place. Had tins caravan arrived
here in the middle of March, or even the middle of
April, they might have travelled on to Ujiji without
trouble.
I asked Asmani :
" When did you see Dr. Kirk last ?"
" About five or six weeks before the Ramadan."
" "When did you get this packet of letters ? "
*' The dav before I left Zanzibar for Ba^amovo.''
" Did you not see him at Bagamoyo, when he came to
shoot near the Kingani ? "
" Xo, we heard he was coming, and we left. "We
heard he had been there. Two days from Kikoka we
stopped a week, to wait for four men of the escorting
party Avho had not yet started from Bagamoyo.
On the 7th of July, about 2 p.m., I was sitting on the
burzani as usual ; I felt listless and languid, and a drowsi-
ness came over me ; I did not fall asleep, but the power
of my limbs seemed to fail me. Yet the brain was busy ;
all my life seemed passing in review before me ; when
these retrospective scenes became serious, I looked
serious ; when they were sorrowful, I wept hysterically ;
when they were joyous, I laughed loudly. Reminiscences
of yet a young life's battles and hard struggles came
surging into the mind in quick succession ; events of
boyhood, of youth, and manhood ; perils, travels, scenes,
joys, and sorrows ; loves and hates ; friendships and
indifferences. My mind followed the various and rapid
tran.sition of my life's passages ; it drew the lengthy,
erratic, sinuous lines of travel my footsteps had passed
over. If I had drawn them on the sandy floor, what
enigmatical problems they had been to those around
me, and what plain, readable, intelligent histories they
had been to me !
T
2;4
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a
noble, and true man, who called me son. Of my life in
the great pine forests of Arkansas, and in Missouri, I
retained the most vivid impressions. The dreaming
days I passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita's
shores ; the new clearing, the block-house, our faithful
black servant, the forest deer, and the exuberant life I led,
were all well remembered. And I remembered how
one day, after we had come to live near the Mississippi,
I floated down, down, hundreds of miles, with a wild
fraternity of knurly giants, the boatmen of the Missis-
sippi, and how a dear old man welcomed me back, as '\i
from the grave. 1 remembered also my travels on foot
through sunny Spain, and France, with numberless
adventures in Asia Minor, among Kurdish nomads. I
remembered the battle fields of America and the stormy
scenes of rampant war. I remembered gold mines, and
broad prairies, Indian councils, and much experience in
the new western lands. I remembered the shock it
gave n^e to hear after ray return from a barbarous
country of the calamity that had overtaken the fond
man whom I called father, and the hot fitful life that
followed it. Stop ! ****** Pear me ; is it the
21st of July? Yes, Shaw informed me that it was the
21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack oi
fever ; the true date was the 14th of July, but I was
not aware that I had jumped a week, until I met
Dr. Livingstone. We two together examined the
'Nautical Almanack,' which I brought with me. We
found that the Doctor was three weeks out of his
reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one
week out, or one week ahead of the actual date. The
mistake was made by n\y being informed that I had
been two weeks sick, and as the day I recovered my
Jtn.Y, 1871.]
LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
275
senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were
morally sure that I was in bed two weeks, I dated it on
my Diary the 21st of July. That Shaw had lost his
reckoning also can easily be accounted for, for the
fever was rapidly destroying his memory, and indeed
his reason. Selim had attended me, according to
directions plainly written, which he had been ordered
to follow in case of such a crisis. I had diligently
taught him, until he knew every medicine in the chest,
and its uses. He told me he had fed me with tea and
a little brandy in it ; Shaw had three or four times fed
me with sago gruel. However, on the tenth day after
the first of my illness, I was in excellent trim again,
only, however, to see and attend to Shaw, who was in
turn taken sick. By the 22nd July Shaw was re-
covered, then Selim was prostrated, and groaned in
his delirium for four days, but by the 28th we were all
recovered, and were beginning to brighten up at the
prospect of a diversion in the shape of a march upon
Mirambo's stronghold.
The morning of the 2nth I had fifty men loaded with
bales, beads, and wire, for Ujiji. Wlien they were
mustered for the march outside the tembe, the only
man absent was Bombay. While men were sent to
search for him, others depaa'ted to get one more look,
and one more embrace with their black Delilahs. Bom-
bay was found sometime about 2 p.m., his foce faithfull}^
depicting the contending passions under which he was
labouring — sorrow at parting from the fleshpots of
Unyanyembe — regret at parting from his Dulcinea of
Tabora — to be bereft of all enjoyment now, Tiothing
but marches — hard, long marches — to go to the war —
to be killed, perhaps. Oh ! Inspired by such feelings,
no wonder Bombay was inclined to be })Ugnaciou8
T 2
276
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
when I oidered him to his place, and I was in a
shocking bad temper for having been kept waiting
from 8 A.M. to 2 p.m. for him. There was simply a
word and a savage look, and my cane was flying
aronnd Bombay's shoulders, as if he were to be anni-
hilated. I fancy that the eager fury of my onslaught
broke his stubbornness more than anything else ; for
before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying
for " pardon." At that word I ceased belaboring him,
for this was the first time he had ever uttered that word.
Bombay was conquered at last.
" March !" and the guide led off, followed in solemn
order by forty-nine of his fellows, every man carrying a
heavy load of African monies, besides his gun, hatchet,
and stock of ammunition, and his ugali-pot. We pre-
sented quite an imposing sight while thus marching on
in silence and order, with our flags flying, and the red
blanket robes of the men streaming behind them as the
furious north-easter blew right on our flank.
The men seemed to feel they were worth seeing, for
I noticed that several assumed a more martial tread as
they felt their royal Joho cloth tugging at their necks, as
it was swept streaming behind by the wind. Maganga,
a tall Mnyamwezi, stalked along like a very Goliah
about to give battle alone, to'Mirambo and his thousand
warriors. Frisky Khamisi paced on under his load,
imitating a lion ; and there was the rude jester — the
incorrigible Ulimengo — with a stealthy pace like a cat.
But their silence could not last long. Their vanity was
so much gratified, the red cloaks danced so incessantly
before their eyes, that it would have been a wonder if
they could have maintained such seiious gravity or dis-
content one half hour longer.
Ulimengo was the first who broke it. He had cou-
July, 1871.]
LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
277
stituted himself the kiraiigozi oi* guide, and was the
standard-bearer, bearing the American flag, which the
men thought would certainly strike terror into the hearts
of the enemy. Growing confident first, then valorous,
tlien exultant, he suddenly faced the army he was
leading, and shouted
" Hoy ! Hoy !
Chorus. — Hoy ! Hoy !
Hoy ! Hoy !
Chorus. — Hoy ! Hoy !
Hoy ! Hoy !
Chorus. — Hoy ! Hoy !
"Where are ye going ?
Chorus. — Going to war.
Against whom ?
Chorus. — Against Mirambo.
Who is your master ?
Chorus.— The Wliite Man.
Ough ! Ough !
Chorum. — Ough ! Ough !
Hyah ! Hyah !
Chorus.— B.y?i\i ! Hyah !"
This was the ridiculous song they kept up all day
without intermission.
We camped the first day at Bomboraa's village,
situated a mile to the south-west of the natural hill
fortress of Zimbili. Bombay was quite recovered
from his thrashing, and had banished the sullen thoughts
that had aroused my ire, and the men having behaved
themselves so well, a five-gallon pot of pombe was
brought to further nourish the valour, which they one
and all thought they possessed.
The second day we arrived at Masangi. I way
278
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
visited soon afterwards by Soud, the son of Sayd
bin Majid, who told me the Arabs were waiting for
me ; that they would not march from Mfuto until I had
arrived.
Eastern Mfuto, after a six hours' march, was reached
on the third day from Unyanyembe. Shaw gave in,
laid down in the road, and declared he was dying.
This news was brought to me about 4 p.m. by one of
the last stragglers. 1 was bound to despatch men to
carry him to me, into my camp, though every man
was well tired after the long march. A reward stimu-
lated half-a-dozen to venture into the forest just at
dusk to find Shaw, who was supposed to be at least
three hours away from camp.
About two o'clock in the morning my men returned,
having carried Shaw on their backs the entire distance.
I was roused up, and had him conveyed to my tent. I
examined him, and I assured myself he was not suffering
from fever of any kind ; and in reply to my inquiries
as to how he felt, he said he could neither walk nor
ride, that he felt such extreme weakness and lassitude
that he was incapable of moving further. After ad-
ministering a glass of port wine to him in a bowlful of
sago gruel, we both fell asleep.
We arrived early the following morning at Mfuto, the
rendezvous of the Arab army. A halt was ordered the
next day, in order to make ourselves strong by eating
the beeves, which we freely slaughtered.
The personnel of our army was as follows : —
Shoikh Sayd bin Salira 25 half castes
„ Khamis bin Abdullali 250 slaves
„ Thani bin Abdullah 80 „
„ Musfioud biu Abdullah .... 75 „
„ AlxhiUali biu Mussoud .... 80 „
„ Ali biu Sayd bin Nasib .... 260 „
August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANTEMBE. 279
Shcikli Nasur bin Mussoud 50 slaves
„ Hamed Kimiani 70 „
„ Sheikh Hamdarn 30 „
„ Sayd bin Habib 50 „
„ SalimbinSayf 100 „
„ Sunguru . 25 „
„ Sarboko 25 „
„ Soud bin Sayd bin Majid ... 50 „
„ Mohammed bin Mussoud .... 30 „
„ Sayd bin Hamed 90 „
„ The ' Herald ' Expedition ... 50 soldiers
„ Mkasiwa's Wanyamwezi .... 800 „
„ Half-castes and Wangwana . . . 125 „
„ Independent chiefs and their followers 300- ,,
These made a total of 2,255, according to numbers
given me by Thani bin Abdullah, and corroborated by
a Baluch in the pay of Sheikh bin Nasib. Of these
men 1 ,500 were armed with guns — flint-lock muskets,
German and French double barrels, some English
Enfields, and American Spring-fields — besides these
muskets, they were mostly armed with spears and long
knives for the purpose of decapitating, and inflicting
vengeful gashes in the dead bodies. Powder and ball
were plentiful : some men were served a hundred rounds
each, my people received each man sixty rounds.
As we filed out of the stronghold of Mfuto, with
waving banners denoting the various commanders, with
booming horns, and the roar of fifty bass drums, called
gomas — with blessings showered on us by the mollahs,
and happiest predications from the soothsayers, astro-
logers, and the diviners of the Koran — who could have
foretold that this grand force, before a week passed
over its head, would be hurrying into that same strong-
hold of Mfuto, with each mair.s heart in his moiitli
from fear ?
The date of our leaving Mfuto for battle witt
280
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Mirambo was the 3rd of August. All my goo :1s were
stored in Mfuto, ready for the march to Ujiji, should
we be victorious over the African chief, but at least for
safety, whatever befel us.
Long before we reached Umanda, I was in my ham-
.mock in the paroxysms of a fierce attack of intermittent
fever, whicb did not leave me until late tliat night.
At Umanda, six hours from Mfuto, our warriors
• bedaubed themselves with the medicine which the
wise men had manufactured for them — a compound of
matama flour mixed with the juices of a herb whose
virtues were only known to the Waganga of the Wan-
yam wezi.
At 6 A.M. on tlie 4th of August we were once more
prepared for the road, but before we were marched out
of the village, the " manneno," or speech, was delivered
by the orator of the Wanyamwezi :
" AVords ! words ! words ! Listen, sons of Mkasiwa,
children of Unyamwezi ! the journey is before you, the
thieves of the forest are waiting ; yes, they are thieves,
they cut up your caravans, they steal your ivory, they
murder your women. Behold the Arabs are with you,
El Wali of the Arab sultan, and the white man are
with you. Go, the son of Mkasiwa is with you ; fight,
kill, take slaves, take cloth, take cattle, kill, eat, and
fill yourselves ! Go !"
A loud, wild shout followed this bold harangue, the
gates of the village were thrown open, and blue, red,
and white-robed soldiers were bounding upward like so
many gymnasts, firing their guns incessantly, in order
to encourage themselves with noise, or to strike terror
into the hearts of those who awaited us within the
strong enclosure of Zimbizo, Sultan Kolongo's place.
As Zimbizo was distant only five hours from Umanda,
August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNTANYEMBE.
281
at 11 A.M. we came in view of it. We halted on the
verge of the cultivated area around it and its neign-
bours, within the shadow of the forest. Strict orders
had heen given by the several chiefs to their respective
commands not to fire, until they were within shooting
distance of the boma.
Khamis bin Abdullah crept through the forest to the
west of the village. The "Wanyamwezi took their
position before the main gateway, aided by the forces
of Soud the son of Sayd on the right, and the son of
Habib on the left, Abdullah, Mussoud, myself, and
others made ready to attack the eastern gates, which
arrangement effectually shut them in, with the exception
of the northern side.
Suddenly, a volley opened on us, as we emerged from
the forest along the Unyanyembe road, in the direction
they had been anticipating the sight of an enemy, and
immediately the attacking forces began their firing in
most splendid style. There were some ludicrous scenes
of men pretending to fire, then jumping off to one side,
then forward, then backward, with the agility of hop-
ping frogs, but the battle w as none the less in earnest.
The breech-loaders of my men swallowed my metallic
cartridges much faster than I hked to see ; but happily
there was a lull in the firing, and w^e were rushing into
the village from the west, the south, the north, through
the gates and over the tall palings that surrounded the
village, like so many Merry Andrews ; and the poor
villagers were flying from the enclosure towards the
mountains, through the northern gate, jnirsued by the
fleetest runners of our force, and pelted in the back by
bullets from breech-loaders and shot-guns.
The village was stiongly defended, and not more
than twenty dead bodies were found in it, the strong
282
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE
thick wooden paling having afforded excellent protec-
tion against our bullets.
From Zimbizo, after having left a sufficient force
within, we sallied out, and in an hour had cleared the
neighbourhood of the enemy, having captured two
other villages, which we committed to the flames, after
gutting them of all valuables. A few tusks of ivory,
and about fifty slaves, besides an abundance of grain,
composed the " loot," which fell to the lot of the
Arabs.
On the 5th, a detachment of Arabs and slaves, seven
hundred strong, scoured the surrounding country, and
carried fire and devastation up to the boma of Wilyan-
kuru.
On the 6th, Soud bin Sayd and about twenty other
young Arabs led a force of five hundred men against
Wilyankuru itself, where it was supposed Mirambo
was living. Another party went out towards tlie low
wooded hills, a short distance north of Zimbizo, near
which place they surprised a youthful forest thief asleep,
whose head they stretched backwards, and cut it off as
though he were a goat or a sheep. . Another party
sallied out southward, and defeated a party of Mirambo's
" bush-whackers," news of which came to our ears at
noon.
In the morning I had gone to Sayd bin Salim's
tembe, to represent to liim how necessary it was to
burn the long grass in the forest of Zimhizo, lest it
might hide any of the enemy ; but soon afterwards I
had been struck down with another attack of inter-
mittent fever, and was obliged to turn in and cover
myself with blankets to produce perspiration, but not,
however, till I had ordered Shaw and Bombay not
to permit any of my men to leave the camp. But I
August, 1871.] LIFE IN UN7ANYEMBE.
28£
was told soon afterwards by Selim that more than
one half had gone to the attack on Wilyankuru, with
Soud bin Sayd.
About G P.M. the entire camp of Zimbizo was elec-
trified with the news that all the Arabs who had
accompanied Soud bin Sayd had been killed ; and that
more than one-half of his party had been slain. Some
of my own men returned, and from them I learned
that Uledi, Grant's former valet, Mabruki Khatalabu
(Killer of his father), Mabruki (the Little), Baruti
of Useguhha, and Ferahari had been killed. I learned
also that they had succeeded in capturing Wilyankuru
in a very short time, that Mirambo and his son were
there, that as they succeeded in effecting an entrance,
Mirambo had collected his men, and after leaving the
village, had formed an ambusli in the grass, on each
side of the road, between TVilyankuru and Zimbizo,
and that as the attacking party were returning home
laden with over a hundred tusks of ivory, and sixty
bales of cloth, and two or three hundred slaves, Mir-
ambo's men suddenly rose up on each side of them,
and stabbed them 'with their spears. The brave Soud
had fired his double-barreled gun and shot two men,
and was in the Eict of loading again when a spear was
launched, which penetrated through and through him :
all the other Arabs shared tlie same fate. This sudden
attack from an enemy they believed to be conquered, so
demoralized the party that, dropping their spoil, each
man took to his heels, and after making a wide detour
througli the woods, returned to Zimbizo to repeat the
dolorous tale.
The effect of this defeat is indescribable. It was
impossible to sleep, from the shrieks of the women
whose husbands had fallen. All night they howled
28i
now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
their lamentations, and sometimes might he heard the
groans of the wounded who had contrived to crawl
through the grass unperceived by the enemy. Fugi-
tives were continually coming in throughout the night,
but none of my men who were reported to be dead,
were ever heard of again.
The 7th was a day of distrust, sorrow, and retreat ;
the Arabs accused one another for urging war without
expending all peaceful means first. There were stormy
councils of war held, wherein were some who proposed
to return at once to Unyanyembe, and keep within their
own houses ; and Khamis bin Abdullah raved, like an
insulted monarch, against the abject cowardice of his
compatriots. These stormy meetings and propositions
to retreat were soon known throughout the camp, and
assisted more than anything else to demoralize com-
pletely the combined forces of Wanyamwezi and
slaves. I sent Bombay to Sayd bin Salim to advise
him not to think of retreat, as it would only be inviting
Mirambo to carry the war to Unyanyembe.
After despatching Bombay with this message, I fell
asleep, but about 1.30 p.m. I was awakened by Selim
saying, " Master, get up, they are all ' running away,
and Khamis bin Abdullah is himself going."
With the aid of Selim I dressed^ myself, and stag-
gered towards the door. My first view was of Thani
bin Abdullah being dragged away, who, when he
caught sight of me, shouted out " Bana — quick —
Mirambo is coming." He was then turning to run, and
putting on his jacket, with his eyes almost starting out
of their sockets with terror. Kliamis bin Abdullah
was also about departing, he being the last Arab to
leave. Two of my men were following him ; these
Selim was ordered to force back with a revolver.
August, 1871.]
LIFE IX UNTANTEUBE.
2S5
Shaw was saddling his donkey with my own saddle, pre-
paratory to giving me the slip, and leaving me in the
lurdi to the tender mercies of Mirambo. There were
only Bombay, Mabruki Speke, Chanda who was coolly
eating his dinner, Mabruk Unyanyembe, ^[taraani.
Juma, and Sarmian ■ — only seven out of fifty. All
the others had deserted and were by this time far away,
except Uledi (Manwa Sera) and Zaidi, whom Selim
brought back at the point of a loaded revolver. Selim
was then told to saddle my donkey, and Bombay to
assist Shaw to saddle his own. In a few moments we
were on the road, the men ever looking back for the
coming enemy ; they belabored the donkeys to some
purpose, for they went at a hard trot, which caused me
intense pain. I would gladly have lain down to die,
but life was sweet, and I had not yet given up all hoj)e
of being able to preserve it to the full and final accom-
plishment of my mission. My mind was actively at
work planjiing and contriving during the long lonely
hours of night, which we employed to reach Mfuto,
whither I found the Arabs had retreated. In the nie-ht
Shaw tumbled off his donkey, and would not rise,
though implored to do so. As I did not despair myself,
so I did not intend that Shaw should despair. He was
lifted on his animal, and a man was placed on each side
of him to assist him ; thus we rode through the dark-
ness. At midnight we reached Mfuto safely, and were
at once admitted into the village, from wliich we had
issued so valiantly, but to which we were now retunied
so ignominiously.
I found all my men had arrived here before dark.
Ulimengo, the bold guide who had exulted in his
weapons and in our numbers, and was so sanguine of
victory, had performed the eleven hours' march in
286
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
six hours; sturdy Chowpereli, whom I regarded as
the faithfulest of my people, had arrived ouly half an
hour later than Ulimengo; and frisky Khamisi, the
dandy — the orator — the rampant demagogue — yes — be
had come third ; and Speke's " Faithfuls " had proved
as cowardly as any poor " nigger " of tliem all. Only
Selim — the Arab boy from Jerusalem, had proved brave
and faithful. Shaw, though an European born, proved
he possessed a soul as base and mean as, if not
meaner than, that of the negroes.
I asked Selim, " Why did you not also run away, and
leave your master to die ?"
" Oh, sir," said the Arab boy, naively, " I was afraid
you would whip me."
GROUP OF WANYAMWEZI.
CHAPTER IX.
LIFE i.v UNYANYEMBE — {continued).
It never occurred to the Arab magnates tliat I had
cause of complaint against them ; it never occurred to
tliem that I had a right to feel aggrieved at their conduct,
for tlie base desertion of an ally, who had, as a duty to
friendship, taken up arms for their sake. Their
" salaams " the next morning after the retreat, were
given as if nothing had transpired to mar the good
feeling that had existed between us.
They were hardly seated, however, before I began
to inform them that as the war was only between them
and Mirambo, and that as I was afraid, if they were
accustomed to run away after every little check, that the
288
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
war might last a much longer time than I could afford
to lose ; and that as they had deserted their wounded
on tlie field, and left their sick friends to take care of
themselves, they must not consider me in the light of
an ally any more. " I am satisfied," said I, " having
seen your mode of fighting, that the war will not be
ended in so short a time as you think it will. It took
you five years, I hear, to conquer and kill Manwa Sera,
you will certainly not conquer Miramho in less than a
year. I am a white man, accustomed to wars after a
different style, I know something about fighting, but
I never saw people run away from an encampment
like ours at Zimbizo, for such sliglit cause as you had.
By running away, you have invited Mirambo to follow
you to Unyanyembe ; you may be sure he will come."
The Arabs protested one after another that they had
not intended to have left me, but the Wanyamwezi of
Mkasiwa had shouted out that the Musungu " was
gone, and the cry had caused a panic among their
people, which 'it was impossible to allay.
Later that day the Arabs continued their retreat to
Tabora, which is twenty -two miles distant from Mfuto.
I determined to proceed more leisurely, and on the
isecond day after the flight from Zimbizo, my Expedition,
with all the stores and baggage, marched back to
Masangi, and on the third day to Kwihara.
The following extracts from the Diary I kept will
serve to show better than anything else, my feelings
and thoughts about this time, after our disgraceful
retreat :
Kwihara. Friday, Wth August, 187'1. — Arrived to-
day from Zimbili, village of Bomboma's. I am quite
disappointed and almost disheartened. But I have one
consolation, I have done my duty by the Arabs, a duty
August, 1871.] LIFE IN UKTANTEMBE.
289
I thought I owed to the kindness they received me
with ; now^ however, the duty is discharged, and I
am free to pursue my own course. I feel happy, for
some reasons, that the duty has been paid at such a
sh'ght sacrifice. Of course if I had lost my life in
this enterprise, I should have been justly punished.
But apart from my duty to the consideration with
which the Arabs had received me, was the necessity of
trying* every method of reaching Livingstone. This
road which the war with Mirambo has closed, is only
a month's march from this place, and if the road could
be opened with my aid, sooner than without it, why
should I refuse my aid ? The attempt has been made
for the second time to Ujiji — both have failed. I am
going to try another route : to attempt to go by the
north would be folly. Mirambo's mother and people, and
the Wasui, are between me and Ujiji, without including
the Watuta, who are his allies, and robbers. The
southern route seems to be the most practicable one.
Yery few people know anything of the country south ;
those whom I have questioned concerning it speak of
"want of water" and robber Wazavira, as serious
obstacles ; they also say that the settlements are few and
far between.
But before I can venture to try this new route, I
have to employ a new set of men, as those whom I
took to Mfuto consider their engagements at an end,
and the fact of five of their number beiu<r killed rather
damps their ardor for travelling. It is useless to hope
that Wanyamwezi can be engaged, because it is against
their custom to go with caravans, as carriers, during
war time. My position is most serious. I have
a good excuse for returning to the coast, but my
conscience will not permit me to do so, after so much
D
290 • HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
money has been expended, and so much confidence has
been placed in me. In fact, I feel I musj die sooner
than return.
Saturday, August 12th. — My men, as I supposed they
would, have gone ; they said that I engaged them to
go to Ujiji by Mirambo's road. I have only thirteen
left. AVith this small body of men, whither can I go ?
I have over one hundred loads in the storeroom.
Livingstone's caravan is also here ; his goods consist of
seventeen bales of cloth, twelve boxes, and six bags of
beads. His men are lux.uriating upon the best the
country affords.
If Livingstone is at. Ujiji, he is now locked up with
small means of escape. I maj' consider myself also
locked up at Unyanyembe, and I suppose cannot go to
Ujiji until this war with Mirambo is settled. Living-
stone cannot get his goods, for they are here with mine.
He cannot return to Zanzibar, and the road to the Nile
is blocked up. He might, if he has men and stores,
possibly reach Baker by travelling northwards, through
Urundi thence through Ruanda, Karagwah, Uganda,
Unyoro, and Ubari to Gondokoro. Pagazis be cannot
obtain, for the sources whence a supply might be
obtained, are closed. It is an erroneous supposition to
think that Livingstone, any more than any other
energetic man of his calibre, can travel through Africa
without some sort of an escort, and a durable supply of
marketable cloth and beads.
I was told to-day by a man that when Livingstone
was coming from Nyassa Lake towards the Tanganika
(the very time that people thought him murdered) he
was met by Sayd bin Omar's caravan, which was bound
for Ulamba. He was travelling with Mohammed bin
Gharib, This Arab, who was coming from Urungu,
August, 1871.]
LIFE IN VNTANYEMBE.
291
met Livingstone at Chi-cumbi's, or Kwa-chi-kumbi's,
country, and travelled with him afterwards, I hear, to
Manyuema or Manyema. Manyuema is forty marches
from the north of Nyassa. Livingstone was walking ;
he was dressed in American sheeting. He had lost all
his cloth in Lake Lieraba while crossing it in a boat.
He had three canoes with him ; in one he put his cloth,
another he loaded with his boxes and some of his men,
into the third he went himself with two servants and
two fishermen. The boat with his cloth was upset.
On leaving Nyassa, Livingstone went to Ubissa, thence
to Uemba, thence to Urungu. Livingstone wore a cap.
He had a breech-loadino- double-barreled rifle with him,
which fired fulminating balls. He was also armed with
two revolvers. The Wahiyow with Livingstone told
this man that their master had many men with him at
first, but that several had deserted him.
August 13th. — A caravan came in to-day from the
sea-coast. They reported that William L. Farquhar,
whom I left sick at Mpwapwa, Usagara, and his cook,
were dead. Farquhar, I was told, died a few days
after I had entered Ugogo, his cook died a few weeks
later. My first impulse was for revenge. I believed
that Leukole had played me false, and had poisoned
him, or that he had been murdered in some other
manner ; but a personal interview with the Msawahili
who brought the news informing me that Farquhar
had succumbed to his dreadful illness has doaie away
with that suspicion. So far as I could understand him,
Farquhar had in the morning declared himself well
enough to proceed, but in attempting to rise, had fallen
backward and died. I was also told that the AVasngara,
possessing some superstitious notions respecting the dead,
had ordered Jako to take the body out for burial, that
202 DOW I FOUXD LIVINGSTONE.
Jako, not being able to carry it, bad dragged tbe bodj
tx) tbe jungle, and tbere left it naked without the
slightest covering of earth, or anything else.
There is one of us gone, Sbaw, my boy ! Who ■^ ill
be the next ?" I remarked that night to my companion.
August 14:th. — "Wrote some letters to Zanzibar.
Shaw was taken very ill last night, whether of fever or
what, I do not know. I do not think it is the fever.
I suspect it is a fierce attack of a venereal affection.
I have no medicines for this disease. So I have sent
three soldiers to Zanzibar for them, having bribed them
to haste, with a promise of $50 each.
August 19tk. Saturday. — ^ly soldiers are employed
stringing beads. Shaw is still a-bed. "We hear that
Mirambo is coming to Unyanyembe. A detachment
of Arabs and their slaves have started this morning to
possess themselves of the powder left there by the
redoubtable Sheikh Sayd bin Sahm, the commander-in-
chief of the Arab settlements.
AugUrSt list. Monday. — Shaw still sick. One
hundred fundo of beads have been strung. The Arabs
are preparing for another sally against Mirambo. The
advance of Mirambo upon Unyanyembe was denied by
Sayd bin Salim, this morning.
August 2 Ind. — We were stringing beads this morning
when, about 10 a.m., we heard a continued firing from
the direction of Tabora. Rushing out from our work
to tbe front door facing Tabora, we heard considerable
volleying, and scattered firing, plainly ; and ascending
to tbe top of my tembe, I saw with my glassts the
smoke of the guns. Some of my men who were sent
on to ascertain tbe cause came running back with the
information that Mirambo had attacked Tabora with
over two thousand men, and that a. force of over one
August, 1871.]
LIFE IN UNTANYEMBE.
293
tliousand "VVatuta, who had allied themselves with him
for the sake of plunder, had come suddenly upon
Tabora, attacking from opposite directions.
Later in the day, or about noon, watching the low
saddle over wliich we could see Tabora, we saw it
crowded with fugitives from that settlement, who were
rushing to our settlement at Kwihara for protection.
From these people we heard the sad information that
the noble Khamis bin Abdullah, his little prote'ge,
Khamis, Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Eashid,
and Sayf, the son of AK, the son" of Sheikh, the son of
Nasib, had been slain.
When I inquired into the details of the attack, and
the manner of the death of .these Arabs, I was told
that after the first firing which warned the inhabitants
of Tabora that the enemy was upon them, Khamis bin
Abdullah and some of the principal Arabs who
happened to be with him, had ascended to the roof of
his tembe, and with his spyglass he had looked towards
the direction of the firing. To his great astonishment
he saw the plain around Tabora filled with approaching
savages, and about two miles off, near Kazima, a tent
pitched which he knew to belong to Mirambo, from its
having been presented to that chief by the Arabs of
Tabora when they were on good terms with him.
Khamis bin Abdullah descended to his house saying,
" Let us go to meet him. Arm yourselves, my friends,
and come with me." His friends advised him strongly
not to go out of his tembe ; for so long as each Arab
kept to his tembe they were more than a match for
the Ruga-Ruga and the Watuta together. But Kliamis
broke out impatiently with, " Would you advise us
to stop in our tembes, for fear of this Mshensi (pagan) ?
Who goes with me?" His little protege, Khamis, son
294
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
of a dead friend, asked to be allowed to be liis gim-
bearer ; Mohammed bin Abdullah, Ibrahim bin Rasliid,
and Sayf, the son of Ali, young Arabs of good families,
who were proud to live with the noble Khamis, also
offered to go with him. After hastily arming eighty
of his slaves, contrary to the advice of his prudent
friends, he sallied out, and was soon face to face with
his cunning and determined enemy Mirambo. This
chief, upon seeing the Arabs advance towards him,
gave orders to retreat slowly. Khamis, deceived by
this, rushed on with his friends 'after them. Suddenly
Mirambo ordered his men to advance upon them in a
body, and at the sight of the precipitate rush upon their
party, Khamis's slaves incontinently took to their heels,
never even . deigning to cast a glance behind them,
leaving their master to the fate which was now over-
taking him. The savages surrounded the five Arabs,
and though several of them fell before the Arabs' fire,
continued to shoot at the little party, until Khamis bin
Abdullah received a bullet in the leg, which brought
him to his knees, and, for the first time, to the knowledge
that his slaves had deserted him. Though wounded, the
brave man continued shooting, but he soon afterwards
received a bullet through the heart. Little Khamis, upon
seeing his adopted father's fall, exclaimed ! " My father
Khamis is dead, I will die with him," and continued
fighting until he received, shortly after, his death wound.
In a few minutes there was not one Arab left alive.
Late at night some more particulars arrived of this
tragic scene. I was told by people who saw the bodies,
that the body of Khamis bin Abdullah, who was
a fine, noble, brave, portly man, was found with
the skin of his forehead, the beard and skin of the lower
part of his face, the fore part of the nose, the fat over
August, 1871.]
LIFE IN UNTANYEMBE.
295
the stomach and abdomen, the genital organs, and,
lastly, a bit from each heel, cut off, by the savage
allies of Mirambo. And in the same condition were
found the bodies of his adopted son and fallen friends.
The flesh and skin thus taken from the bodies was
taken, of course, by the waganga or medicine men, to
make what they deem to be the most powerful potion
of all to enable men to be strong against their enemies.
This potion is mixed up with their ugali and rice, and
is taken in this manner with the most perfect confidence
in its efficacy, as an invulnerable protection against
bullets and missiles of all descriptions.
It was a most sorry scene to witness from our excited
settlement at Kwihara, almost the whole of Tabora in
flames, and to see the hundreds of people crowding into
Kwihara.
Perceiving that my people were willing to stand by
me, I made preparations for defence by boring loop-
holes for muskets into the stout clay walls of my
tembe. They were made so quickly, and seemed so
admirably adapted for the efficient defence of the tembe,
that my men got quite brave, and AVangwana refugees
with guns in their hands, driven out of Tabora, asked
to be admitted into our tembe to assist in its defence.'
Livingstone's men were also collected, and invited to
help defend their master's goods against Mirambo's
sup})Osed attack. - By night I had one hundred and fifty
armed men in my courtyard, stationed at every possible
point where an attack might be expected. To-morrow
Mirambo has threatened that he will come to Kwihara.
I hope to God he will come, and if he comes within
range of an American rifle, I ^hall see what virtue lies
in American lead.
Auymt 23rd. — We have passed a very anxious day in
L'96
now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the valley of Kwiliara. Our eyes were constantly directed
towards unfortunate Tabora. It has been said that
three tenibes only have stood the brunt of the attack.
Abid bin Suliman's house has been destroyed, and over
two hundred tusks of ivory that belonged to him have
become the property of the African Bonaparte. My
tembe is in as efficient a state of defence as its style and
means of defence will allow. Rifle-pits surround the
house outside, and all native huts that obstructed the
view have 'been torn down, and all trees and shrubs
which might serve as a shelter for any one of the
enemy have been cut. Provisions and water enough
for six days have been brought. I have ammunition
enough to last two weeks, and, without boasting, I
do not think that 10,000 Africans could take it, though
a body of 400 or 500 Europeans might easily do it,
unassisted by cannon ; with cannon 50 Europeans
could easily take the place. The walls are three feet
thick, and there are apartments within apartments, so
that a desperate body of men could fight until the last
room had been taken.
The Arabs, my neighbours, endeavour to seem brave,
but it is evident they are about despairing ; I have
heard it rumoured that the Arabs of Kwihara, if Tabora
is taken, will start en masse for the coast, and give the
country up to Mirambo. If such are their intentions,
and they are really carried into effect, I shall be in a
pretty mess. However, if they do leave me, Mirambo will
not reap any benefit from my stores, nor from Living-
stone's either, for I shall burn the whole house, and
everything in it ; that's my idea. But what in the
name of everything will become of Shaw ? In such a
crisis nobody would carry him.
August 2^Wi. — The American flag is still waving
August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
297
above my house, and the Arabs are still in Unyan-
yembe.
About 10 A.M., a messenger came from Tabora,
asking us if we were not going to assist them against
Mirambo. I felt very much like going out to help
them ; but after debating long upon the pros and cons
of it, — asking myself, Was it prudent? Ought I to
go ? What will become of the peo{)le if I were killed ?
Will they not desert me again ? What was the
fate of Khamis bin Abdullah? — I sent word that I
would not go ; that they ought to feel perfectly at
home in their tembes against such a force as Mirambo
had, that I should be very glad if they could induce
him to come to Kwihara, in which case I would try and
pick him off.
They say that Mirambo, and his principal oflScer,
carry umbrellas over their heads, that he himself has
long hair like a Mnyamwezi pagazi, and a beard. If
he comes, all the men carrying umbrellas will have
bullets rained on them in the hope that one lucky bullet
may hit him. According to popular ideas, I should
make a silver bullet, but I have no silver with me. I
might make a gold one.
About noon I went over to see Sheikh bin Nasib,
leaving about 100 men inside the house to guard it
while I was absent. This old fellow is quite a philo-
soplier in his way. I should call him a professor of
minor philosophy. He is generally so sententious —
fond of aphorisms, and a very deliberate character. I
was astonished to find him so despairing. His aphorisms
have deserted him, his philosophy has not been able to
stand against disaster. He listened to mo, more like a
man moribund, than one possessing all the means of
defence and offence.
298
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
I loaded his two-pounder with ball, and grape, and
small slugs of iron, and advised him not to fire it until
Mirambo's people were at his gates.
About 4 P.M. I heard that Mirambo had deported
himself to Kazima, a place north-west of Tabora a
couple of miles.
August 26th. — The Arabs sallied out this morning
to attack Kazima, .but refrained, because Mirambo
asked for a day's grace, to eat the beef he had stolen
from them. He has asked them impudently to come
to-morrow morning, at which time he says he will give
them a bellyful of fighting.
Kwihara is once more restored to a peaceful aspect,
and fugitives no longer throng its narrow limits in fear
and despair.
August 21th. — Mirambo retreated during the night;
and \vhen the Arabs went" in force to attack his village
of Kazima, they found it vacant.
The Arabs hold councils of war now-a-days — battle
meetings, of which they seem to be very fond, but
extremely slow to act upon. They were about to make
friends with the northern Watuta, but Mirambo was
ahead of them. They had talked of invading Mirambo's
territory the second time, but Mirambo invaded Un-
yanyembe with fire and sword, bringing death to many
a household, and he has slain the noblest of them all.
The Arabs spend their hours in talking and arguing,
while the Ujiji and Karagwah roads are more firmly
closed than ever. Indeed, many of the influential
Arabs are talking of returning to Zanzibar ; saying,
" Unyanyembe is ruined." I have lost all my respect
for them.
Meanwhile, with poor success, however, perceiving
the impossibility of procuring Wanyamwezi pagazis,
August, 1871.] LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE. • 299
I am hiring the Wangwana renegades living in
Unyanyeinbe to proceed with me to Ujiji, at treble
prices. Each man is ofifered 30 doti, ordinary hire of "
a carrier being only from 5 to 10 doti to Ujiji. I want
fifty men. I intend to leave about sixty or seventy
loads here under charge of a guard. I shall leave all
personal baggage behind, except one small port-
manteau.
August 2%th. — No netvs to-day of Mirambo. Shaw
is getting strong again.
Sheikh bin Nasib called on me to-day, but, except^
on minor philoi^ophy, he had nothing to say.
I have determined, after a study of the country,
to lead a flying caravan to Ujiji, by a southern road
through northern Ukonongo and Ukawendi. Sheikh
bin Nasib has been informed to-night of this deter-
mination.
August 1%th. — Shaw got up to-day for a little work.
Alas ! all my fine-spun plans of proceeding by boat over
the Victoria N' Yanza, thence down the Nile, have been
totally demolished, I fear, through this war with
Mirambo — this black Bonaparte. Two months have
been wasted here already. The Arabs take such a long
time to come to a conclusion. Advice is plentiful, and
words are as numerous as the blades of grass in - our
valley ; all that is wanting is decision. The Arabs'
hope and stay is dead — Khamis bin Abdullah is no
more. Where are the other warriors of whom the
Wangwana and Wanyamwezi bards sing ? Where is
mighty Kisesa— great Abdullah bin Nasib? Where
is Sayd, the son of Majid ? Kisesa is in Zanzibar,
and Sayd, the son of Majid, is in Ujiji, as yet ignorant
that liis son has fallen in the forest of Wilyankuru.
Shaw is improving fast. I am unsuccessful as
300
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
yet in procuring soldiers. I almost despair of ever
being able to move from here. It is such a drowsy,
.sleepy, slow, dreaming country. Arabs, Wangwana,
Wanyamwezi, are all alike — all careless how time
flies. Their to-morrow means sometimes within a
month. To me it*is simply maddening.
August 30th. — Shaw will not work. I cannot get
him to stir himself. I have petted him, and coaxed
him ; I have even cooked little luxuries for him myself.
And, while I am straining every nerve to get ready
for Ujiji, Shaw is satisfied with looking on listlessly.
What a cliange from the ready-handed bold man he
was at Zanzibar !
I sat down by his side to-day with my palm and
needle, in order to encourage him, and to-day, for the
first time, I told him of the real nature of my mission.
I told him that I did not care about the geography
of the country half as much as I cnred about fixdixg
Livingstone ! I told him, for the first time, " Now, my
dear Shaw, you think probably that I have been sent
here to find the depth of the Tanganika. Not a bit of
it, man ; I was told to find Livingstone. It is to find
Livingstone I am here. It is to find Livingstone I am
going. Don't you see, old fellow, the importance of
the mission, don't you see what reward you will get
from Mr. Bennett, if you will help me. I am sure, if
ever you come to New York, you will never be in want
of a fifty-dollar bill. So shake yourself; jump about;
look lively. Say you will not die ; that is half the
battle. Snap your fingers at the fever. I will
guarantee the fever won't kill you. I have medicine
enough for a regiment here !"
Bah ! Bah \ I was talking to a lifeless mummy.
His eyes lit up a little, but the light that shone in them
Sept. 1871.]
LIFE IN UNTANTEMBE.
301
shortly faded, and died. I was quite disheartened. I
made some strong pmich, to pnt fire in his veins, that I
might see life in him. I put sugar, and eggs, and
seasoned it with lemon and spice. " Drink, Shaw,"
said I, "and forget your miserable infirmities. Don't
breathe in my face, man, as if you were about to die.
Leave off this pantomime. You are not sick, dear
fellow ; it is only ennui you are feeling. Look at Selim
there. Now, I will bet any amoimt, that he will not
die ; that I will carry him home safe to his friends at
Jerusalem ! I will carry you home also, if you will
let me !"
Piff-puff at his nasty pipe. Hear him breathe ! You
would think he was dying ; but he is not even sick.
He told me, only the other day, that he knew every
trick of old sea-salts, when they wished to shirk duty at
sea. I am sure he is practising a trick on me. 'This
intermittent fever ! I know every stage of it ; and I feel
convinced he has not got it.
Of one thing I feel sure, that if I took a stick I
could take the nonsense out of him.
September \st. — According to Thani bin Abdullah
whom I visited to-day, at his tembe in Maroro, Mirambo
lost two hundred men in the attack upon Tabora,
while the Arabs' losses were, five Arabs," thirteen free-
men and eight slaves, besides three tembes, and over
one hundred small huts burned, two hundred and
eighty ivory tusks, and sixty cows and bullocks
captured.
September 3rc?. — Received a packet of letters and
newspapers from Capt. Webb, at Zanzibar. What a
good thing it is that one's friends, even in far America,
think of the absent one in Africa ! They tell me, that
no one dreams of my being in Africa yet !
302
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
I applied to Sheikh bin Nasib to-day to permit
Livingstone's caravan to go under my charge to Ujiji,
but he would not listen to it. ' He says he feels certain
I am going to my death.
September 4:th. — Shaw -is quite well to-day, he says.
Selim is down with the fever. My force is gradually
increasing, though some of my old soldiers are falling
off. Umgareza is blind ; Baruti has the small-pox very
badly ; Bilali has a strange disease, an ulcer or some-
thing, rear-ward ; Sadala has the Mukunguru (the
intermittent).
September 5th. — Baruti died this morning. He was
one of my best soldiers ; and was one of those men
who accompanied Speke to Egypt. Baruti is number
seven of those who have died since leaving Zanzibar.
To-day my ears have been poisoned with the reports
of the Arabs, about the state of the country I am about
to travel through. " The roads are bad ; they are all
stopped ; the Euga-Ruga are out in the forests ; the
Wakonongo are coming from the south to help
Mirambo ; the Washensi are at war, one tribe against
another." My men are getting dispirited, they have
imbibed the fears of the Arabs and the Wanyamwezi.
Bombay begins to- feel that I had better go back to the
coast, and try again some other time.
We buried Baruti under the shade of the banyan-
tree, a few yards west of my tembe. The grave was made
four and a half feet deep and three feet wide. At the
bottom on one side a narrow trench was excavated, into
which the body was rolled on his side, with his face
turned towards Mecca. The body was dressed in a doti
and a half of new American sheeting. After it was
placed properly in its narrow bed, a sloping roof of
sticks, covered over with matting and old canvas, was
Sept. 1871.]
LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
303
made, to prevent the eartli from falling over the bodj.
The grave was then filled, the soldiers laughing merrily.
On the top of the grave was planted a small shrub, and
into a small hole made with the hand, was poured water
lest he might feel thirsty — they said — on his way to
Paradise ; water was then sprinkled all over the grave,
and the gourd broken. This ceremony being ended,
the men recited the Arabic Fat-hah, after which they
left the grave of their dead comrade to think no more
of him.
Septemher Itlt — An Arab named Mohammed pre-
sented me to-day with a little boy slave, called "Ndugu
M'hali " (my brothers wealth). As I did not Jilte the
name, I called the chiefs of my caravan together, and
asked them to give him a better name. One suggested
" Simba " (a lion), another said he thought " Ng.ombe "
(a cow) would suit the boy-child, another thought he
ought to be called " Mirambo," which raised a loud
laugh. Bombay thought " Bombay Mdogo " would suit
my black-skinned infant very w^ell. Ulimengo, however
after looking at his quick eyes, and noting his celerity
of movement, pronounced the name Ka-lu-lu as the
best for him, "because," said he, "just look at his eyes,
so bright ! look at his form, so slim ! watch his move-
ments, how quick ! Yes, Kalulu is his name." " Yes,
bana," said the others, " let it be Kalulu."
"Kalnlu" is a Ki.saAvahili term for the young of the
blue-buck (perpusilla) antelope.
" Well, then," said I, water being brought in a huge
tin pan, Selim, who was* willing to stand godfather
holding him over the water, " let his name henceforth be
Kalulu, and let no man take it from him," and thus it
was that the little black boy of Mohammed's came to be
called Kalulu.
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The Expedition is increasing in numbers ; it is now
composed of :
2 white men.
1 Arab boj.
1 Hindi.
29 Wangwana.
1 boy from Londa (Cazembes).
1 boy from Uganda.
1 boy from Liemba, or Uwemba.
"We had quite an alarm before dark. Much firing
was heard at Tabora, which led us to anticipate an
attack on Kwihara. It turned out, however, to be a
salute fired in honor of the arrival of Sultan Kitambi
to pay a visit to Mkasiwa, Sultan of Unyanyembe.
September 8th. — Towards night Sheikh bin Nasib
received a letter from an Arab at Mfuto, reporting that
an attack was made on that place by Mirambo and his
Watuta allies. It also warned him to bid the people
of Kwihara hold themselves in readiness, because if
^Mirambo succeeded in storming Mfuto, he would march
direct on Kwihara.
September dth. — Mirambo was defeated with severe
loss yesterday, in his attack upon Mfuto. He was
successful in an assault he made upon a small "Wanyam-
wezi village, but when he attempted to storm Mfuto, he
was repulsed with severe loss, losing three of his
principal men. Upon withdrawing his forces from the
attack, the inhabitants sallied out, and followed him to
the forest of Umanda, where he was again utterly
routed, himself ingloriously fiying from the field.
The heads of his chief men slain in the attack were
brought to Kwikuru, the boma of Mkasiwa.
Septembtr lUh. — Shaw is a sentimental driveller,
Sept. 1871.]
LIFE IN UNTANYEMBE.
306
with a large share of the principles of Joseph Surface
within his nature. He is able at times to kindle
into an eloquent rant about the vices of mankind,
particularly those of rich people. His philippics on tliis
topic deserved a better audience than I furnished him.
He has a habit of being self-absorbed — is an oddity
quite the reverse of Jack Bunsby. Instead of looking
towards the horizon, he regards the ground at his feet
with a look which seems to say, there is something
wrong somewhere, and I am trying to find out where
it can be, and how to rectify it.
He told me to-day his father had been a captain in
Her Majesty's navy, that he had been present at four
levees of Queen Victoria. This can hardly be, liowever,
as I cannot imagine a naval captain's son being so
ignorant of penmanship as scarcely to be able to write
his own name, nor can I see how it is possible that he
could have been presented to the Queen, for I have
always understood that the Court of St. James's is the
most aristocratic in Europe.
He is very angry, though, with me, because I laugh
at him, and has just opened a sentimental battery on
me which makes mc almost cry out with vexation that
I encumbered myself with such a fool.
September \Ath. — The Arab boy Selim is delirious
from constant fevers. Shaw is sick again, or pretends
to be. These two occupy most of my time. I am turned
into a regular nurse, for 1 have no one to assist me in
attending upon them. If I try to instruct Abdul Kader
in the art of being useful, his head is so befogged with
the villainous fumes of Unyamwezi tobacco, that he
wanders bewildered about, breaking dishes, and up-
setting cooked dainties, until I get so exasperated that
my peace of mind is broken completely for a full hour
X
306
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
If I ask Ferajji, my now formally constituted cook, to
assist, bis thick wooden head fails to receive an idea, and
I am thus obliged to play the part of chef de cuisine.
September I5th. — The third month of my residence
in Unyanyembe is almost finished, and I am still here,
but I hope to be gone before the 23rd inst.
All last night, imtil nine A.M. this morning, my
soldiers danced and sang to the manes of their dead
comrades, whose bones now bleach in the forests of
Wilyankuru. Two or three huge pots of pombe failed
to satisfy the raging thirst which the vigorous exercise
they were engaged in, created. So, early this morning,
I was called upon to contribute a shukka for another
potful of the potent liquor.
To-day I was busy selecting the loads for each
soldier and pagazi. In order to lighten their labor as
much as possible, I reduced each load from 70 lbs. to
50 lbs., by which I hope to be enabled to make some
long marches. I have been able to engage ten pagazis
during the last two or three days.
I have two or three men still very sick, and it is
almost useless to expect that they will be able to carry
anything, but I am in hopes that other men may be
engaged to take their places before the actual day of
departure, which now seems to be drawing near
rapidly.
September IGth. — We have almost finished our work —
on the fifth day from this — God willing — we shall march.
I engaged two more pagazis besides two guides, named
Asmani and Mabruki. If vastness of the human form
could terrify any one, certainly Asmani's appearance is
well calculated to produce that effect. He stands con-
siderably over six feet without shoes, and has shoulders
broad enough for two ordinary men.
Sept. 1871.]
LIFE IN UJSYANTEMBE.
307
To-morrow I mean to give the people a farewell feast,
to celebrate our departure from this forbidding and
unhappy country.
September 17th. — The banquet is ended. I slaugh-
';ered two bullocks, and had a barbacue ; three sheep,
two goats, and fifteen chickens, 120 lbs. of rice, twenty
large loaves of bread made of Indian corn-flour, one hun-
dred eggs, 10 lbs. of butter, and five gallons of sweet-
milk, were the contents of which the banquet was
formed. The men invited their friends and neighbours,
and about one hundred women and children par-
took of it.
After the banquet was ended, the pombe, or native
beer, was brought in in five gallon pots, and the people
commenced their dance, which continues even now as I
write.
September I9ih. — I had a slight attack of fever to-day,
which has postponed our departure. Selim and Shaw
are both recovered. Selim tells me that Shaw has said
that I would die like a donkey ; and that he said he would
take charge of my journals, and trunks, and proceed to
the coast immediately, if I die. This afternoon, he is
stated to have said that he does not intend to go to
Ujiji, but that when I am gone, he will stock the yard
full of chickens, in order to be able to get fresh eggs
every day, and that .he will buy a cow, from which
he will be able to procure fresh milk daily.
At night Shaw came to me while the fever was at its
height, to ask me to whom I would like to have him
write, in ca.se I should die, because, said he, even the
strongest of us may die. I told him to go and mind his
own business, and not be croaking near me.
About 8 P.M. Sheik bin Nasib came to me imploring
me not to go away to-morrow, because I was so sick.
308
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Tliani Sakhburi suggested to me that I might stay
another month ; in answer, I told them that white men
are not accustomed to break their words. I had said
I would go, and I intended to go.
Sheikh bin Nasib gave up all hope of inducing me
to remain another day, and he has gone away, with a
promise to write to Syed Burghash to tell him how
obstinate I am, and that I am determined to be killed.
This was a parting shot.
About flO P.M. the fever had gone. All were asleep
in the tembe but myself, and an unutterable lone-
liness came on me as I reflected on my position, and
my intentions, and felt the utter lack of sympathy
with me in all around. Even my own white assistant,
with whom I had striven hard, was less sympathizing
than my little black boy Kalulu. It requires more
nerve than I possess, to dispel all the dark pre-
sentiments that come upon the mind. But probably
what I call presentiments are simply the impress on
the mind of the warnings which these false-hearted
Arabs have repeated so often. This melancholy and
loneliness I feel, may probably have their origin from
the same cause. The single candle, which barely lights
up the dark shade that fills the corners of my room,
is but a poor incentive to cheerfulness. I feel as though
I were imprisoned between stone walls. But why
should I feel as if baited by these stupid, slow-witted
Arabs and their warnings and croakings? I fancy a
suspicion haunts my mind, as I write, that there lies
some motive behind all this. I wonder if these Arabs
tell me all these things to keep me here, in the hope
that I might be induced another time to assist them in
tlieir war with Mirambo ! If they think so, they are
much mistaken, for I have taken a solemn, euduri)'g
Sept. 1871.]
LIFE IN UNYANYEMBE.
309
oath, an oath to be kept while the least hope of life
remains in me, not to be tempted to break the resolution
I have formed, never to give up the search, until I find
Livingstone alive, or find his dead body ; and never
to return home without the strongest possible proofs
that he is alive, or that he is dead. No living man,
or living men, shall stop me, only death can prevent
me. But death — not even this ; I shall not die, I will
not die, I cannot die ! And something tells me, I do
not know what it is — perhaps it is the ever-living hope-
fulness of my own nature, perhaps it is the natural
presumption born out of an abundant and glowing
vitality, or the outcome of an overweening confidence
in one's self — anyhow and everyhow, something tells
me to-night I shall find him, and — write it larger —
Find him ! Find him ! Even the words are inspiring.
I feel more happy. Have I uttered a prayer ? I shall
sleep calmly to-night.
I have felt myself compelled to copy out of my Diary
the above notes, as they explain, written as they are on
the spot, the vicissitudes of my " Life at Unyanyembe."
To me they appear to explain far better than any
amount of descriptive writing, even of the most graphic,
the nature of the life I led. There they are, un-
exaggerated, in their literality and entirety, precisely
as 1 conceived them at the time they happened. They
speak of fevers without number to myself and 'nen,
without entering into any diagnosis of or disquisition
upon them; they relate our dangers, and little joys, our
annoyances and our pleasures, as they occurred.
810
EOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
CHAPTER X.
TO MRERA, UKONONGO.
Untamwezi.
From Kwiliara to —
Mkwenkwe
Inesuka .
Kasegera
Kigandu .
Ugunda .
Benta
Kikuru
Ziwani .
Manyara .
h. m.
1 30
2 0
3 0
2 45
7 0
3 15
5 0
4 0
6 30
TJkonongo,
From Manyara to —
Gombe Eiver
Ziwani
Tongoni
Camp
Marefu
Utende
Mtoni
Mwaru
Mrera
m,
15
20
30
15
0
15
0
15
13
The 20th of September had arrived. This was the day
I had decided to cut loose from those who tormented
me with their doubts, their fears, and beliefs, and com-
mence the march to TJjiji by a southern route. I was
very weak from the fever that had attacked me the day
before, and it was a most injudicious act to commence a
march under such circumstances. But I had boasted to
Sept. 1871.]
TO MR EE A, UKONONGO.
311
Sheikh bin Nasib that a wliite man never breaks his
word, and my reputation as a white man would have
been ruined had I stayed behind, or postponed the
march, in consequence of feebleness.
I mustered the entire caravan outside the tembe,
our flags and streamers were unfurled, the men had
their loads resting on the walls, there was considerable
shouting, and laughing, and negroidal fanfaronnade.
The Arabs had collected from curiosity's sake to see us
oflf — all except Sheikh bin Nasib, whom I had offended
by my asinine opposition to his wishes. The old Sheikh
took to his bed, but sent his son to bear me a last morsel
of philosophic sentimentality, which I was to treasure
up as the last words of the patriarchal Sheikh, the son of
Nasib, the son of Ali, the son of Sayf. Poor Sheikh ! if
thou hadst only known what was at the bottom of this
stubbornness — this ass-like determination to proceed
the wrong way — what wouldst thou then have said, 0
Sheikh ? But the Sheikh comforted himself with the
thought that I might know what I was about better
than he did, which is most likely, only neither he nor
any other Arab will ever know exactly the motive that
induced me to march at all westward — when the road
to the east was ever so much easier.
My braves whom I had enlisted for a rapid march
somewhere, out of Unyanyembe, were named as fol-
lows : — _
1. John William Shaw, London, England.
2. Selim Heshmy, Jerusalem, Palestine.
3. Seedy MLarak Mombay, Zanzibar.
4. Mabruki Speke, ditto.
5. Ulimengo, ditto.
6. Ambari, ditto.
7. Uledi, ditto.
312
HOW I FOUND LIVINQSTONE.
8. Asmani, Zanzibar.
9. Sarmian, ditto.
10. Kamna, ditto.
11. Zaidi, ditto.
12. Khamisi, ditto.
13. Chowpereh, Bagamoyo.
14. Kingaru, ditto.
15. Belali, ditto.
16. Ferous, Unyanyembe.
17. Rojab, Bagamoyo.
18. Mabruk Unyanyembe, Unyanyembc!.
19. Mtamani, ditto.
20. Chanda, Maroro.
21. Sadala, Zanzibar.
22. Kombo, ditto.
23. Saburi the Great, Maroro.
24. Saburi the Little, ditto.
25. Marora, ditto.
26. Ferajji (the cook), Zanzibar,
27. Mabruk Saleem^ Zanzibar.
28. Baraka, ditto.
29. Ibrahim, Maroro.
30. Mabruk Ferous, ditto.
31. Baruti, Bagamoyo.
32. Umgareza, Zanzibar.
33. Hamadi (the guide), ditto.
34. Asmani, ditto ditto.
35. Mabruk, ditto ditto.
36. Hamdallah, ditto, Tabora.
37. Jumah, Zanzibar.
38. Maganga, Mkwenkwe.
30. Muccadum, Tabora.
40. Dasturi, ditto.
41. Tumayona, Ujiji.
Sept. 1871.] TO MREBA, UKONONGO.
313
42. Mparamoto, Ujiji.
43. Wakiri, ditto.
44. Mufn, ditto.
45. Mpepo, ditto.
46. Kapingu, ditto.
47. Mashishanga, ditto.
48. Muheruka, ditto.
49. Missossi, ditto.
50. Tufura Byah, ditto.
51. Majwara (boy), Uganda.
52. Belali (boy), Uemba.
53. Kalulu (boy), Limda.
54. Abdul Kader (tailor), Malabar. •
These are the men and boys whom I had selected to
be crowned as Immortals, whom I had chosen to be my
companions on the apparently useless mission of seek-
ing for the lost traveller, David Livingstone. The
goods with which I had burdened them, consisted of
1,000 doti, or 4,000 yds. of cloth, six bags of beads, four
loads of ammunition, one tent, one bed and clothes, one
box of medicine, sextant and books, two loads of tea,
coffee, and sugar, one load of flour and candles, one
load of canned meats, sardines, and miscellaneous
necessaries, and one load of cooking utensils.
The men were all in their places except Bombay.
Bombay had gone ; he could not be found. I despatched
a man to hunt him up. He was found weeping in the
arms of his Delilah. •
" Why did you go away, Bf)ml)ay, when you knew I
intended to go, and was waiting?"
" Oh, master, I was saying good-bye to my missis."
" Oh, indeed ?"
" Yes, master ; you no do it, when you go away ?"
314
HOW I FOUND LWINQSTONE.
" Silence, sir."
" Oh ! all right."
" What is the matter with you, Bombay ?"
" Oh, nuffin."
As I saw he was in a humor to pick a quarrel with
me before those Arabs who had congregated outside of
my tembe to witness my departure, and as I was not
in a humor to be balked by anything that might turn
up, the consequence was, that I was obliged to thrash
Bombay with my dog-whip, an operation which soon
cooled his hot choler, but brought down on my head a
loud chorus of remonstrances from my pretended Arab
friends — ^' Now,, master, don't, don't — stop it, master :
the poor man knows better than you what he and you
may expect on the road you are now taking."
If anything was better calculated to put me in a rage
than Bombay's insolence before a crowd it was this
gratuitous interference with what I considered my own
especial business ; but I restrained myself, though I
told them, in a loud voice, that I did not choose to be
interfered with, unless they wished to quarrel with me.
" No, no, bana," they all exclaimed ; " we do not
wish to quarrel with you. In the name of God ! go on
your way in peace."
" Fare you well, then," said I. shaking hands with
them.
" Farewell, master, farewell. We wish you, we are
sure, all success, and God be with you, and guide you !"
March !"
A parting salute was fired ; the flags were raised up
by the guides, each pagazi rushed for his load, and in a
short time, with songs and shouts, the head of the Expe-
dition had filed round the western end of my tembe
along the road to Uguuda.
Sept. 1871.]
TO MREBA, UKONONGO.
315
" Now, Mr. Shaw, I am waiting, sir. Mount your
donkey, if you cannot walk." ,
" Please, Mr. Stanley, I am afraid I cannot go."
''Why ?"
*' I don't know, I am sure. I feel very weak."
" So am I weak. It was but late last niglit, as you
know, that the fever left me. Don't back out, man,
before these Arabs ; remember you are a white man.
Here, Selim, Mabruki, Bombay, help Mr. Shaw on his
donkey, and walk by him."
" Oh, bana, bana," said the Arabs, " don't take him.
Do you not see he is sick ?"
" You keep away ; nothing will prevent me from
taking him. He shall go."
" Go ou, Bombay."
The last of my party had gone. The tembe, so lately
a busy scene, had already assumed a naked, desolate
appearance. I turned towards the Arabs, lifted my hat,
and said again, " Farewell," then faced about for tl)e
south, followed by my four young gun-bearers, Selim,
Kalulu, Majwara, and Bebli.
Before we had gone five hundred yards the wild
Kinyamwezi donkey, probed behind by sly Mabruki,
lifted up his heels, and John Shaw, never a very good
rider, measured his length on the ground near a thorn-
bush. Shaw screamed,- and we all ran up to assist
him.
" What is it, my dear fellow ?" I asked. " Are you
hurt ?"
" Oh dear, oh dear ! Let me go back, please, Mr.
Stanley."
" Why ? Because you have had a fall from a donkey ?
Come, pluck up courage, man. I should be so sorry to
have to say you backed out. In four or five days you
316
HOW I FOUND LIVIBG STONE.
will be laughing at this little mishap. Mostly all people
feel a little downhearted when they leave a pleasant
place. Get on your donkey again, old fellow. Say
you will go — that's the ticket."
"We assisted him once more ; but I was all the time
wondering, nevertheless, if it were not much better to
send him back, rather than carry an unwilling man
almost by force with me over the hundreds of miles that
must lie between me and Ujiji. What if he died on the
road ! Perhaps he really is sick ! No, he is not — he
is only pretending ! But I confess that, had I been
assured that I would not be laughed at by the Arabs, I
would have sent him back there and then.
After half an hour's march the scenery became more
animated. Shaw began to be amused. Bombay had
forgotten our quarrel, and assured me, if I could pass
Mirambo's country, I should " catch the Tanganika ;"
Mabruki Speke believed we should. Selim was glad to
leave Unyanyembe, where he had suifered so much
from fever ; and there was a something in the bold
aspect of the hills which cropped upward above fair
valleys, that enlivened and encouraged me to proceed.
In an hour and a half, we arrived at our camp in the
Kinyamwezi village of Mkwenkwe, the birthplace of our
famous chanter Maganga.
My tent was pitched, the goods were stored in one of
the tembes ; but one-half the men had returned to Kwi-
hara, to take one more embrace of their wives and
concubines.
Towards night I was attacked once again with the
intermittent fever. Before morning it had departed,
leaving me terribly prostrated with weakness. I had
heard the men conversing with each other over their
camp-fires upon the probable prospects of the next day.
Sept. 1871.]
TO MRERA, UKOXOXGO.
317
It was a question with them whether I should continue
the march. Mostly all were of the opinion that, since the
master was sick, there would be no march. A super-
lative obstinacy, however, impelled me on, merely to
spite their supine souls ; but when I sallied out of my
tent to call them to get ready, I found that at least
twenty were missing ; and Livingstone's letter-carrier,
"Kaif-Halek" — or, How-do-ye-do ? — had not arrived
with Dr. Livinsrstone's letter-bag.
Selecting twenty of the strongest and faithfulest
men, I despatched them back to Unyanyembe in search
of the missing men ; and Selim was sent to Sheikh bin
Xasib to borrow, or buy, a long slave-chain.
Towards night my twenty detectives returned with
nine of the missing men. The Wajiji had deserted in
a body, and they could not be found. Selim also re-
turned with a strong chain, capable of imprisoning
within the collars attaclied to it, at least ten men. Kaif-
Halek also appeared with the letter-bag which he was
to convey to Livingstone under my escort. The men
were then addressed, and the slave-chain exhibited to
them. I told them that I was the first white man who
had taken a slave-chain with him on his travels ; but,
as they were all so frightened of accompanpng me, I
was obliged to make use of it, as it was the only means
of keeping them together. The good need never fear
being chained by me — only the deserters, the thieves,
who received their hire and presents, guns and ammu-
nition, and then ran away. I would not put any one
this time in chains ; but whoever deserted after this
day I phould halt, and not continue the march till I
found him, after which he should marcli to Ujiji with the
slave-chain round his neck. " Do you hear ?" — " Yes,"
was the answer. " Do you understand ?" — " Yes."
318
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
We broke up camp at 6 p.m., and took the road for
Inesiika, at whicti place we arrived at 8 p.m.
When we were about commencing the march the
next morning, it was discovered that two more had
deserted. Baraka and Bombay were at once despatched
to Unyanyembe to bring back the two missing men
— Asmani and Kingaru, with orders not to return with-
out them. This was the third time that the latter had
deserted, as the reader may remember. While the
pursuit was being effected we halted at the village of
Inesuka, more for the sake of Shaw, than any one else.
In the evening the incorrigible deserters were brought
back, and, as I had threatened, were well flogged and
chained, to secure them against further temptation.
Bombay and Baraka had a picturesque story to relate
of the capture ; and, as I was in an exceedingly good
humor, their services were rewarded with a fine cloth
each.
On the following morning another carrier had ab-
sconded, taking with, him his hire of fifteen new cloths
and a gun ; but to halt anywhere near Unyanyembe
any longer was a danger that could be avoided only by
travelling without stoppages towards the southern
jungle-lands. It will be remembered I had in my train
the redoubte'd Abdul Kader, the tailor, he who had
started from Bagamoyo with such bright anticipations
of the wealth of ivory to be obtained in the great in-
terior of Africa. On this morning, daunted by the
reports of the dangers ahead, Abdul Kader craved to be
discharged. He vowed he was sick, and unable to
proceed any further. As I was pretty well tired of
him, I paid him off in cloth, and permitted him to go.
About half way to Kasegera Mabruk Saleem was
suddenly taken sick with vomiting, looseness, and
Sept. 1871.]
TO MREHA, UKONONGO.
319
constant discharge of worms. I treated him with a
grain of calomel, and a couple of ounces of brandy.
As he was unable to walk, I furnished him with a
donkey. Another man named Zaidi was ill with a
rheumatic attack ; and Shaw tumbled twice off the
animal he was riding, and required an infinite amount
of coaxing to mount again. Yerily, my Expedition was
pursue^ by adverse fortunes, and it seemed as if the
Fates had determined upon our return. It really
appeared as if everything was going to wreck and
ruin. If I were only fifteen days from Unyanyembe,
thought I, I should be saved.
Kasegera was a scene of rejoicing the afternoon and
evening of our arrival. Absentees had just returned
from the coast, and the youths were brave in their
gaudy bedizenment, their new barsatis, their soharis,
and long cloths of bright new kaniki, with which they
had adorned themselves behind some bush before they
had suddenly appeared dressed in all this finery. The
women " Hi-hi'ed " like maenads, and the " Lu-lu-
lu'ing " was loud, frequent, and fervent the whole of that
afternoon. Sylph-like damsels looked up to the youth-
ful heroes with intensest admiration oh their features ;
old women coddled and fondled them ; staff-using,
stooping-backed patriarchs blessed them. This is fame
in Unyamwezi. All the fortunate youths had to use
their tongues until the wee hours of next morning had
arrived, relating all the wonders they had seen near the
Great Sea, and in the "Unguja," the island of Zan-
zibar ; of how they saw great white men's ships, and
numbers of white men, of their perils and trials during
their journey through the land of the fierce Wagogo,
and divers other facts,- with which the reader and 1
are by this time well acquainted.
820
BOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
On the 24th we struck camp, and marched through
a forest of imbiti wood in a S.S.W. direction, and in
about three hours came to Kigandu.
On arriving before this village, which is governed
by a daughter of Mkasiwa, we were informed we
could not enter unless we paid toll. As we would not
pay toll, we were compelled to camp in a ruined, rat-
infested boma, situated a mile to the left of Kigandu,
being well scolded by the cowardly natives for deserting
Mkasiwa in his hour of extremity. We were accused
of runiling away from the war.
Almost on the threshold of our camp Shaw, in
endeavouring to' dismount, lost his stirrups, and fell
prone on his face. This little by-play of Mr. Shaw's was
getting too frequent. So, as the men rushed to assist
him, I ordered them to leave him alone. The foolish
fellow actually laid on the ground in the hot sun a full
hour ; and when I coldly asked him, if he did not feel
rather uncomfortable, he sat up, and wept like a child.
" Do you wish to go back, Mr. Shaw ?".
" If you please. I do not believe I can go any
farther ; and if you would only be kind enough, I
should like to return very much."
" Well, Mr. Shaw, I have come to the conclusion
that it is best you should return. My patience is worn
out. I have endeavoured faithfully to lift you above
these petty miseries which you nourish so devotedly.
You are simply suffering from hypochondria. You
imagine yourself sick, and nothing, evidently, will
persuade you that you are not. Mark my words
— to return to Unyanyembc, is to dip: ! Should you
happen to fall sick in Kwihara who knows how
to administer medicine to you? Supposing you are
delirious, how can any of my soldiers know what you
Skpt. 1871.] TO MREEA, UKOXONGO.
321
want, or what is beneficial and necessary for you?
Once again, I repeat, if you return, you die !"
" Ah, dear me ; I wish I had never ventured to
come ! I thought life in Africa was so different from
this. I would rather go back if you will permit me."
The next day was a halt, and arrangements were
made for the transportation of Shaw back to Kwihara
A strong litter was made, and four stout pagazis were
hired at Kigandu to carry him. Bread was baked,
a canteen was filled with cold tea, and a leg of a kid
was roasted for his sustenance while on the road.
The night before we parted we spent together,
Shaw played some tunes on an accordion which I had
purchased for him at Zanzibar; but, though it was
only a miserable ten-dollar affair, I thought the homely
tunes evoked from the instrument that night Avere
divine melodies. The last tune played before retiring
was "Home, sweet Home ;" and I fancy that before
it ended we had mutually softened' towards each
other. •
The morning of the 27th we w^ere all up early.
There was considerable vis in our movements. A
% long, long march lay before us that day ; but tlieu I
was to leave behind all the sick and ailing. Only
those who were healthy, and could march fast and
long, were to accompany me. Mabruk Saleem I left
in charge of a native doctor, who was to medicate him
for a gift of cloth which I gave him in advance.
The horn sounded to get ready. Shaw was lifted
in his litter on the shoulders of his carriers. My men
formed two ranks ; the flags were lifted ; and between
these two living rows, and under those bright streamers,
which were to float over the waters of the Tanganika
before he should see them again, Shaw was borne away
322
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
towards the north ; while we filed off to the south, with
quicker and more elastic steps, as jf we felt an incubus
liad been taken from us.
We ascended a ridge bristling with syenite boulders
of massive size, appearing above a forest of dwarf trees.
The view which we saw was similar to that we had
often seen elsewhere. An illimitable forest stretching
in grand waves far beyond the ken of vision — ridges,
forest-clad, rising gently one above another until they
l eceded in the dim purple-blue distance — with a warm
haze floating above them, which, though clear enough
in our neighbourhood, became impenetrably blue in the
far distance. Woods, woods, woods, leafy branches,
foliaged globes, or parachutes, green, brown, or sere in
color, forests one above another, rising, falling, and
receding — a very leafy ocean. The horizon, at all
points, presents the same view ; there may be an in-
distinct outline of a hill far away, or here and there a
tall tree higher than the rest, conspicuous in its outlines
against the translucent sky — with tins exception it is
the same — the same clear sky dropping into the depths
of the forest, the same outlines, the same forest, the
same horizon, day after day, week after week ; we hurry
to the summit of a ridge, expectant of a change, but
the wearied eyes, after wandering over the vast expanse,
return to the immediate surroundings, satiated with
the ever-sameness of such scenes. Carlyle, somewhere
in his writings, says, that though the Vatican is great,
it is but the chi}j of an eggshell compared to the star-
fretted dome where Arcturus and Orion glance for
ever ; and I say that, though the grove of Central Park,
New York, is grand compared to the thin gioves seen
in other great cities, that, though the Windsor and the
New Forests may be very fine and noble in England,
Sept. 1871.]
TO ME ERA, UKONOXGO.
323
yet they are but faggots of sticks compared to these
eternal forests of Unyamwezi.
"We marched three hours and then halted for refresh-
ments. I perceived that the people were very tired,
not yet inured to a series of long marches, or rather,
not in proper trim for earnest, hard work after our long
rest in Kwihara. "When we resumed our march again
there were several manifestations of bad temper and
weariness. But a few good-natured remarks about
their laziness put them on their mettle, and we reached
Ugunda at 2 p.m. after another four hours' spurt.
Ugunda is a very large village in the district of
Ugunda, which adjoins the southern frontier of Unya-
nyembe. The village probably numbers four hundred
families, or two thousand souls. It is well protected by
a tall and strong palisade of three-inch timber. Stages
have beea erected at intervals above the palisade^witli
miniature embrasures in the timber, for tlie niusRts of
the sharpshooters, who take refuge within these box-
like stages to pick out the chiefs of an attacking force.
An inner ditch, with the sand or soil thrown up three
or four feet high against the palings, serves as pro-
tection for the mahi body of the defenders, who kneel
in the ditch, and are thus enabled to withstand a
very large force. For a mile or two outside the village
all obstnictions are cleared, and the besieged are thus
warned by sharp-eyed watchers to be i)repared for the
defence before the enemy approaches within musket
range. Mirambo withdrew his force of robbers from
before this strongly-defended village after two or three
ineffectual attempts to storm it, and the Wagunda have
lieen congratulating themselves ever since, upon having
driven away the boldest marauder that Unyamwezi has
seen for generations.
324
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The Waguuda have about three thousand square
acres under cultivation around their principal village,
and this area suffices to produce sufficient grain not
onlj for their own consumption, but also for the
many caravans which pass by this way for Ufipa and
Marungu.
However brave the Wagunda may be within the
strong enclosure with which they have surrounded
their principal village^ they are not exempt from the
feeling of insecurity which fills the soul of a Mnygim-
wezi during war-time. At this place the caravans are
accustomed to recruit their numbers from the swarms
of pagazis who volunteer to accompany them to the
distant iv^ory regions south ; but I could not induce a
soul to follow me, so great was their fear of Mirambo
and his Ruga-Ruga. They were also full of rumors of
wars^iead. It was asserted that Mbogo was advancing
towards Ugunda with a thousand Wakonongo, that
the Wazavira had attacked a caravan four months
previously, that Simba was scouring the country with a
baud of ferocious mercenaries, and much more of the
same nature and to the same intent.
On the 28th we arrived at a small snug village
embosomed within the forest called Benta, three hours
and a quarter from Ugunda. The road led through the
cornfields of the Wagunda, and then entered the clear-
ings around the villages of Kisari, within one of which
we found the proprietor of a caravan who was drumming
up carriers for Ufipa. He had been halted here two
months, and he made strenuous exertions to induce my
men to join his caravan, a proceeding that did not tend
to promote harmony between us. A few days after-
wards 1 found, on my return, that he had given up the
idea of proceeding south. Leaving Kisari, we marched
Sept. 1871.]
TO MIIERA, UKONONQO.
325
through a thin jungle of black jack, over sun-cracked
ground with here and there a dried-up pool, the bottom
of which was well tramped by elephant and rhinoceros.
Buffalo and zebra tracks were now frequent, and we
were buoyed up with the hope that before long we
should meet game.
Benta was well supplied with Indian corn and a
grain which the natives called choroko, which I take to
be vetches. I purchased a large supply of choroko for
my own personal use, as I found it to be a most
healthy food. The corn was stored on the flat roofs of
the tembes in huge boxes made out of the bark of the
mtundu-tree. The largest box I have ever seen in Africa
was seen here. It might be taken for a Titan's hat-box ;
it was seven feet in diameter, and ten feet in height.
On the 29th, after travelling in a S.W. by S. direc-
tion, we reached Kikuru. Tlie march lasted for five
hours over sun-cracked plains, growing the black jack,
and ebony, and dwarf slirubs, above which numerous
ant-liills of light chalky-colored earth appeared like
sand dunes.
The mukunguru, a Kisawahili term for fever, is fre-
quent in this region of extensive forests and flat plains,
owing to the imperfect drainage provided by nature for
them. In the dry season there is nothing very offensive
in the view of the country. The burnt grass gives rather
a sombre aspect to the country, covered with the hard-
baked tracks of animals which haunt these plains during
the latter part of the rainy season. In the forest
numbers of trees lie about in the last stages of decay,
and working away with might and main on the pro-
strate trunks may be seen numberless insects of various
8j)ecies. Impalpably, however, the poison of the dead
and decaying vegetation is inhaled into the system
326
EOW I FOUND LIViyGSTOSE.
•with a result sometimes as fatal as that which is said to
arise from the vicinity of the Upas-tree.
The first evil results experienced from the presence
of malaria are confined bowels and an oppressive languor,
excessive drowsiness, and a constant disposition to
yawn. The tongue assumes a yellowish, sickly hue,
colored almost to blackness ; even the teeth become
ytllow, and are coated with an offensive matter. The
eyes of the patient sparkle lustrously, and become
sufiused with water. These are sure symptoms of the
incipient fever which shortly will rage through the
system, laying the sufferer prostrate and quivering with
agony.
Sometimes this fever is preceded by a violent shaking
fit, during which period blankets may be heaped on the
patient's form, with but little amelioration of the deadly
chill he feels. It is then succeeded by an unusually
severe headache, with excessive pains about the loins
and spinal column, which presently will spread over
the shoulder-blades, and, running up the neck, find
a final lodgment in the back and front of the head.
Usually, however, the fever is not preceded by a chill,
but after languor and torpitude have seized him, with
excessive heat and throbbing temples, the loin and spinal
column aches, and raging thirst soon possesses him.
The brain becomes crowded with strange fancies, which
sometimes assume most hideous shapes. Before the
darkened vision of the sufiering man, float in a seeth-
ing atmosphere, figures of created and uncreated
reptiles, which are metamorphosed every instant into
stranger shapes and designs, growing every moment
more confused, more complicated, more hideous and
terrible. Unable to bear longer the distracting scene,
he makes an effort and opens his eyes, and dissolves the
Oct. 1871.]
TO MRERA, UKONONOO.
327
delirious dream, only, however, to glide again uncon-
sciously into another dream-land where another unreal
inferno is dioramically revealed, and new agonies suf-
fered. Oh! the many many hours that I have groaned
under the terrible incubi which the fits of real
delirium evoke. Oh ! the racking anguish of body
that a traveller in Africa must undergo ! Oh ! the
spite, the fretfulness, the vexation which the horrible
phantiismagoria of diabolisms induce ! The utmost pa-
tience fails to appease, the most industrious attendance
fails to gratify, the deepest humility displeases. During
these terrible transitions, which induce fierce distraction,
Job himself would become irritable, insanely furious,
and choleric. A man in such a state regards himself
as the focus of all miseries. When recovered, he feels
chastened, becomes urbane and ludicrously amiable, he
conjures up fictitious delights from all things which, but
yesterday, possessed for him such awful portentous
aspects. His men he regards with love and friendship ;
whatever is trite he views with ecstasy. Nature
ap[)ears charming ; in the dead woods and monotonous
forest his mind becomes overwhelmed with delight. I
speak for myself, as a careful aualysation of the attack,
in all its severe, plaintive, and silly phases, appeared
to me. I used to amuse myself with taking notes of the
humorous and the terrible, the fantastic and exagge-
rated pictures that were presented to me — even while
suffering the paroxysms induced by fever.
We arrived at a large pool, known as the Ziwatii,
after a four hours' march in a S.S.W. direction, the
1st of October. We discovered an old half-burnt
khaml)i, sliellered by a magnificent mkuyu (sycamore),
the giant of the forests of Unyamwezi, which after an
hour we transformed into a splendid camp.
328
EOW 1 FOUND LirimSTONB.
If I recollect rightly, the stem of the tree measured
thirty-eight feet iu circumference. It is the finest tree
of its kind I have seen in Africa. A regiment might
with perfect ease have reposed under this enormous
dome of foliage during a noon halt. The diameter of
the shadow it cast on the ground was one hundred
and twenty feet. The healthful vigor that I was
enjoying about this time enabled me to regard my
GIGANl'IC SYCAMORE, AND CAMP BENEATH IT.
surroundings admiringly. A feeling of comfort and
perfect contentment took possession of me, such as L
knew not while fretting at Unyanyembe, wearing my
life away in inactivity. I talked with my people as to
my friends and equals. We argued with each other
about our prospects in quite a companionable, sociable
vein.
When daylight was dying, and the sun was sinking
down rapidly over the western horizon, vividly paint-
Oct. 1871.]
TO MEEBA, UKONONQO.
329
ing the sky with the colors of gold and silver, saffron,
and opal, when its rays and gorgeous tints were re-
flected upon the tops of the everlasting forest, with the
quiet and holy calm of heaven resting upon all around,
and infusing even into the untutored minds of those
ahout me, the exquisite enjoyments of such a life as we
were now leading in the depths of a great expanse of
forest, the only and sole human occupants of it — this
was the time, after our day's work was ended, and the
camp was in a state of perfect security, when we all
would produce our pipes, and could best enjoy the
labors which we had performed, and "the contentment
which follows a work well done.
Outside nothing is heard beyond the cry of a stray
florican, or guinea-fowl, which has lost her mate, or
the hoarse croaking of the frogs in the pool hard
by, or the song of the crickets which seems to lull the
day to rest ; inside our camp are heard the gurgles of
the gourd pipes as the men inhale the blue ether, which
I also love. I am contented and happy, stretched on
my carpet under the dome of living foliage, smoking
my short meerschaum, indulging in thoughts — despite
the beauty of the still grey light pf the sky, and of the
air of serenity which prevails around — of home and
friends in distant America, and these thoughts soon
change to my work — yet incomplete ; to the man who
to me is yet a myth, who, for all I know, may be dead,
or may be near or far from me tramping through just
such a forest, whose tops I see bound the view outside
my camp. We are .both on the same soil, perhaps, in
the same forest — who knows ? — vet is he to me so far
removed that he might as well be in his own little
cottage of Ulva. Though I am even now ignorant of
his very existence, yet I feel a certain complacency, a
330
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
certain satisfaction which would be difficuh to describe
Why is man so feeble, and weak, that he must tramp,
tramp hundreds' of miles to satisfy the doubts his
impatient and uncurbed mind feels ? Why cannot ray
form accompany the bold flights of my mind and
satisfy the craving I feel to resolve the vexed question
that ever rises to my lips — " Is he alive ?" 0 ! soul
of mine, be patient, thou hast a felicitous tranquillity,,
which other men might envy thee ! SuflScient for the
hour is the consciousness thou hast that thy mission is
a holy one ! Onward, and be hopeful !
Monday, the 2nd of October, found us traversing the
forest and plain that extends from the Ziwani to Man-
yara, which occupied us six and a half hours. The sun
was intensely hot ; but the mtundu and miombo trees
grew at intervals, just enough to admit free growth to
each tree, while the blended foliage formed a grateful
shade. The path was clear and easy, the stamped and
firm" red soil offered no obstructions. The only provo-
cation we suflPered was from the attacks of the tsetse, or
panga (sword) fly, which swarmed here. We knew we
were approaching an extensive habitat of game, and we
were constantly on the alert for any specimens that
might be inhabiting these forests.
While we were striding onward, at the rate of nearly
three miles an hour, the caravan I perceived sheered off
from tlie road, resuming it about fifty yards ahead of
something on the road, to which the attention of the
men was directed. On coming up, I found the object to
be the dead body of a man, who bad fallen a victim to
that fearful scourge of Africa, tbe small-pox. He was
one of Oseto's gang of marauders, or guerillas, in the
service of Mkasiwa of Unyanyembe, who were hunting
these forests for the guerillas of Mirambo. They had
Oct. 1871.]
TO MRERA, UKONONOO.
331
been returning from Ukonongo from a raid they had
instituted against the Sultan of Mbogo, and they had
left their comrade to perish in the road. He had appa-
rently been only one day dead.
Apropos of this, it was a frequent thing with us to
discover a skeleton or a skull on the roadside. Almost
every day we saw one, sometimes two, of these relics of
dead, and forgotten humanity.
Shortly after this we emerged from the forest, and
entered a mbuga, or plain, in which we saw a couple of
giraffes, whose long necks were seen towering above a
bush they had been nibbling at. This sight was greeted
with a shout ; for we now knew we had entered the
game country, and that near the Gombe creek, or river,
where we intended to halt, we should see plenty of
these animals.
A walk of three hours over this hot plain brought
us to the cultivated fields of Manyara. Arriving before
the village-gate, we were forbidden to enter, as -the
country was throughout in a state of war, and it
behoved them to be very careful of admitting any party,
lest the villagers might be compromised. We were,
however, directed to a khambi to the right of the vil-
lage, near some pools of clear water, where we disco-
vered some half dozen ruined huts, which looked very
uncomfortable to tired people.
After we had built our camp, the kirangozi was fur-
nished with some cloths to purchase food from the village
for the transit of a wilderness in front of us, which was
said to extend nine" marches, or 135 miles. lie was
informed that the Mtemi had strictly prohibited his
people from selling any grain whatever.
This evidently was a case wherein the exercise of a
little diplomacy could only be effective ; because it
«
332 EOW I FOUND LIVlisGSTONE.
would detain us several days here, if we were compelled
to send men back to Kikuru for provisions. Opening
a bale of choice goods, I selected two royal cloths, and
told Bombay to carr}' them to him, with the compli-
ments and friendship of the white man. The Sultan
sulkily refused them, and bade him return to the white
man and tell him not to bother him. Entreaties were
of no avail, he would not relent ; and the men, in ex-
ceedingly bad temper, and hungry, were obliged to go
to bed supperless. The words of Njara, a slave-trader,
and parasite of the great Sheikh bin Nasib, recurred to
me. " Ah, master, master, you will find the people
will be too much for you, and that you will have to
return. The Wa-manyara are bad, the Wakonongo are
very bad, the Wazavira are the worst of all. You have
come to this country at a bad time. It is war every-
where." And, indeed, judging from the tenor of the
conversations around our <;amp-fires, it seemed but too
evident. There was every prospect of a general decamp
of all my people. However, I told them not to be
discouraged ; that I would get food for them in the
morning.
The bale of choice cloths was opened again next
morning, and four royal cloths were this time selected,
and two dotis of Merikani, and Bombay was again
despatched, burdened with compliments, and polite
words. It was necessary to be very politic with a
man who was so surly, and too powerful to make an
enemy of. AVhat if he made up his mind to imitate
the redoubtable Mirambo, King of Uyoweh ! The effect
of my munificent liberality was soon seen in the
abundance of provender which came to my camp.
Before an hour went by, there came boxes full of cho-
roko, beans, rice, matama or dourra, and Indian corn,
Oct. 1871.]
TO MEERA, UKONONGO.
333
carried on tlie heads of a dozen villagers, and shortly-
after the Mtemi himself came, followed by about thirty
musketeers and twenty spearmen, to visit the first
white man ever seen on this road. Behind these
warriors came a liberal gift, fully equal in value
to that sent to him, of several large gourds of honey,
fowls, goats, and enough vetches and beans to supply
my men with four days' food.
I met the chief at the gate of my camp, an^ bowing
profoundly, invited him to my tent, which I had arranged
as well as my circumstances would permit, for this
reception. My Persian carpet and bear skin were
spread out, and a broad piece of bran-new crimson
cloth covered my kitanda, or bedstead.
The chief, a tall robust man, and his chieftains, were
invited to seat themselves. They cast a look of such
gratified surprise at myself, at my face, my clothes, and
guns, as is almost impossible to describe. They looked at
me intently for a few seconds, and then at each other,
which ended in an uncontrollable burst of laughter, and
repeated snappings of the fingers. They spoke the
Kinyamwezi language, and my interpreter Maganga
was requested to inform the chief of the great delight
I felt in seeing them. After a short period expended in
interchanging compliments, and a competitive excellence
at laughing at one another, their chief desired me to
show him my guns. The " sixteen -shooter," the
Winchester rifle, elicited a thousand flattering obi-erva-
tions from the excited man ; and the tiny deadly
revolvers, whose beauty and workmanship they thought
were superhuman, evoked such gratified eloquence tliat I
was fain to try something else. The double-barreled
guns fired with heavy charges of powder, caused them
to jump up in affected alann, and then to subside
334 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to their seats convulsed with laughter. As the
enthusiasm of my guests increased, they seized each
other's index fingers, screwed them, and pulled at them *
until I feared they would end in their dislocation.
After having explained to them the difference between
white men and Arabs, I pulled out my medicine chest,
which evoked another burst of rapturous sighs at
the cunning neatness of the array of vials. He asked
what they meant.
" Dowa," I replied sententiously, a word which may
be interpreted — medicine.
" Oh-h, oh-h," they murmured admiringly. I suc-
ceeded, before long, in winning unqualified admiration,
and my superiority, compared to the best of the Arabs
they had seen, was but too evident. " Dowa, dowa,"
they added.
" Here," said I, uncorking a vial of medicinal brandy,
"is the Kisungu pombe " (white man's beer); ' take
a spoonful and try it," at the same time handing it,
" Hacht, hacht, oh, hacht ! what ! eh ! what strong
beer the white men have ! Oh, how my throat
burns !"
" Ah, but it is good," said I, " a little of it makes men
feel strong, and good ; but too much of it makes men
bad, and they die."
"Let me have some," said one of tlie chiefs; "and
me/' " and me," " and me," as soon as each had tasted.
I next produced a bottle of concentrated ammonia,
which as I explained was for snake bites, and head-
aches ; the Sultan immediately complained he had
a head-ache, and must have a little. Telling him
to close his eyes, I suddenly uncorked the bottle, and
presented it to His Majesty's nose. The effect was
magical, for he fell back as if shot, and such contortions
Oct. 1871.]
TO MEERA, UEONONQO.
335
as his features underwent are indescribable. His chiefs
roared with laughter, and clapped their hands, pinched
each other, snapped their fingers, and committed many-
other ludicrous things. I verily believe if such a scene
were presented on any stage in the world the effect of
it would be visible instantaneously on the audience ;
that had they seen it as I saw it, they would have
laughed themselves to hysteria and madness. Finally
the Sultan recovered himself, great tears rolling down
his cheeks, and his features quivering with laughter,
then he slowly uttered the word " kali," — hot, strong,
quick, or ardent medicine. He required no more, but
the other chiefs pushed forward to get one wee sniff,
which they no sooner had, than all went into paroxysms
of uncontrollable laughter. The entire morning was
passed in this state visit, to the mutual satisfaction of
all concerned. " Oh," said the Sultan at parting,
"these white men know everything, the Arabs are dirt
compared to them !"
That night Hamdallah, one of the guides, deserted,
carrying with him his hire (27 doti), and a gun. It was
useless to follow him in the morning, as it would have
detained me many more days than I could afford ; but
I mentally vowed that Mr. Hamdallah should work out
those 27 doti of cloths, before I reached the coast.
Wednesday, October 4th, saw us travelling to the
Gombe River, which is 4 h. 15 m. march from Manyara.
AVe had barely left the waving cornfields of my
friend Ma-manyar"a before we came in sight of a
herd of noble zebra; two hours afterwards we had
entered a grand and noble expanse of park land,
whose glorious magnificence and vastness of })rospect,
with a far-stretching carpet of verdure, darkly flecked
here and there by miniature clumps of jungle, with
336
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
spreading trees growing here and there, was certainly
one of the finest scenes to be seen in Africa. Added
to which, as I surmounted one of the. numerous small
knolls, I saw herds after herds of buffalo and zebra,
giraffe and antelope, which sent the blood coursing
through my veins in the excitement of the moment, as
when I first landed on African soil. AYe crept along
the plain noiselessly to our camp on the banks of the
sluggish waters of the Gombe.
Here at last was the hunter's Paradise ! How petty
and insignificant appeared my hunts after small ante-
lope and wild boar, what a foolish waste of energies
those long walks througli damp grasses and through
thorny jungles ! Did I not well remember my first
bitter experience in African jungles when in the
maritime region ! But this — where is the nobleman's
park that can match this scene ? Here is a soft, velvety
expanse of young grass, grateful shade under those
spreading clumps ; herds of large and varied game
browsing within easy rifle range. Surely I must feel
amply compensated now for the long southern detour I
have made, when such a prospect as this opens to the
vfew ! Xo thorny jungles and rank smelling swamps
are here to daunt the hunter, and to sicken his aspira-
tions after true sport ! No hunter could .aspire after a
nobler field to display his prowess.
Having settled the position of the camp, which over-
looked one of the pools found in the depression of the
Gombe creek, I took my double-bafreled smooth bore,
and sauntered off to the park-land. Emerging from
behind a clump, three fine plump spring-bok were seen
browsing on the young grass just within one hundred
yards. I knelt down and fired ; one unfortunate ante-
lope bounded upward instinctively, and fell dead. Its
Oct. 1871.]
TO MREBA, UKONOXGO.
companions sprang high into the air, taking leaps about
twelve feet in length, as if they were quadrupeds prac-
tising gymnastics, and away they vanished, rising up
like India-rubber balls, until a knoll hid them from
view. My success was hailed with loud shouts by the
soldiers, who came nmning out from the camp as soon
as they heard the reverberation of the gun, and my
gun-bearer had his knife at the beast's throat, uttering
a fervent " Bismillah !" as he almost severed the head
from the body.
Hunters were now directed to proceed east and north
to procure meat, because in each caravan it generally
happens that there are fundi, whose special trade it is
to hunt for meat for the camp. Some of these are
experts in stalking, but often find themselves in
dangerous positions, owing to the near approach neces-
sary, before they can fire their most inaccurate weapons
with any certainty.
After luncheon, consisting of spring-bok steak, hot
corn-cake, and a cup of delicious Mocha coffee, I strolled
towards the south-west, accompanied by Kalulu and
Majwara, two boy gun-bcareis. The tiny perpusiha
started up like rabbits from me as I stole along through
the underbrush ; the honey-bir(J hopped 'from tree
to tree chirping its call, as if it thought 1 was seeking
the little sweet treasure, the hiding-place of which it
only knew; but no! I neither desired perpusilla nor the
honey. I was on the search for something great this
day. Keen-eyed fish-eagles and bustards poised on trees
above the sinuous Gombe thought, and probably with
good reason, that I was after them ; judging by the
ready fiighl witli which both species disai)peared as
they sighted my approach. Ali, no! nothing but
hartebecst, zebra, giraffe, eland, and bulTalo this day !
z
now I FOUSB LIVIXGSTOSE.
After following the Gombe's course for about a mile,
delighting my eyes with long looks at the broad and
lengthy reaches of water to which I was so Ions: a
stranger, I came upon a scene which delighted the
innermost recesses of my soul ; five, six, seven, eight,
ten zebras switching their beautiful striped bodies, and
biting one another, within about one hundred and fifty
yards. The scene was so pretty, so romantic, never did
I so thoroughly realize that I was in Central Africa. I
felt momentarily proud that I owned such a vast do-
main, inhabited with such noble beasts. Here I pos-
sessed, within reach of a leaden ball, any one I chose of
the beautiful animals, the pride of the African forests !
It was at my option to shoot any of them 1 Mine they
were without money and without price ; yet, knowing
this, twice I dropped my rifle, loth to wound the royal
beasts, but — crack ! and a royal one was on his back
battling the air with his legs. Ah. it was such a pity!
but, hasten, draw the keen sharp-edged knife across the
beautiful stripes which fold around the throat ; and —
what an ugly gash ! it is done, and I have a superb
animal at my feet. Hurrah I I shall taste of Ukonongo
zebra to-night.
I thought a spring-bok and zebra enough for one
day's sport, especially after a long march. The Gombe,
a long stretch of deep water, winding in and out of green
groves, calm, placid, with lotus leaves lightly resting
on its surfiice, all pretty, picturesque, peaceful, as a
summer's dream, looked very inviting for a bath. I
sought out the most shady spot under a wide-spreading
mimosa, from which the ground sloped smooth as a
lawn, to the still, clear water. I ventured to undress,
and had already stepped in to my ancles in the water,
and had brought my hands together for a glorious dive,
Oct. 1871.]
TO MBERA, UKOXOXGO.
339
when my attention was attracted hj an enormously
long body which shot into view, occupying the spot
beneath the surface that I was about to explore by a
" header." Great heavens, it was a crocodile ! I sprang
backward instinctively, and this proved my salvation,
for the monster turned away with the most disappointed
look, and I was left to congratulate myself upon my
narrow escape from liis jaws, and to register a vow
never to be tempted again by the treacherous calm of
an African river.
As soon as I had dressed I turned away from the
now repulsive aspect of the stream. In strolling
through the jungle, towards my camp, I detected the
forms of two natives, looking sharply about them, and,
after bidding my young attendants to preserve perfect
quiet, I crept cm towards them, and, by the aid of a
thick clump of under-bush, managed to arrive within
a few feet of the natives undetected. Their mere
presence in the immense forest, unexplained, was a
cause of uneasiness in the then disturbed state of the
country, and my intention was to show myself suddenly
to thera, and note its effect, which, if it betokened any-
thing hostile to the Expedition, could without difficulty
be settled at once, with the aid of my double-barreled
smooth-bore.
As I arrived on one side of this bush, the two suspi-
cious-looking natives arrived on the other side, and we
were separated by only a few feet. I made a bound,
and we were face to face. The natives cast a glance
at the sudden figure of a white man, and seemed pe-
trified for a moment, but then, recovering themselve.s,
they shrieked out, " Bana, bana, you don't know us.
Wo are Wakonongo, who came to your camp to accom-
pany you to Mrera, and we are looking for honey."
HOW I FOCSlf LmSGSTOSE.
" Oh, to be eiiie, you are the TTakonongo. Yes —
Yes. Ah, it is ^ right now, I thought jon might be
Rnga-RngaL"
So the two parties, instead of being on hostile termB
with each other, burst oat laughing. The TVakoncmgo
enjored it very mnch, and laoghed heartilj as thej
proceeded (m their way to search for tilie wQd hone j.
On a piece of bark they earned a little fire widi which
they anoked the bees ont from their nest in the great
mtnnda- trees.
The adventures of the day were over ; the azure of
the had dianged to a dead grey; the nHwn was
appearing jiKt over the trees ; the water of the G<Naabe
was Uke a sQver belt ; hoarse frogs bellowed ibeai notes
kmdly bj the margin of the creek; the fish-eagles
uttered their diige-like cries as they were perched h%h
on the taQest tree ; elands snorted their warning to the
herds in the forest; stealthy forms of the carnivora
stole throngh the dark woods outside of our camp.
Within Idle high indosnre of bosh and diom, which we
had raised aromid onr camp, all was jollity, laughter,
and radiant, genial ocnofort. Aronnd every camp-fire
dark forms of men were seen squatted : one man gnawed
at a loscioiis bone ; another sacked the rich marrow in
a zebra's leg-bone ; another tamed the stick, garnished
with huge kabob^ to the bright blaze ; another held a
large rib over a flame ; there were others busy stirring
indostrioQsly great black potfols of ngali, and watdiing
anxiously the meat smmering, and the soap babbling,
while the fire4ight flickered and danced bravely, and
cast a bright glow over the naked fisrms of the men,
and gave a crimson tinge to the tall tent that rose in
the centre of the camp, like a temple sacred to aooke
mysterioos god ; the fires cast their reflecti<His upon toe
Oct. 1S;1.]
TO ME Eli A, UEONOXGO.
341
massive arms of tlie trees, as tliey branched over our
camp, and, in the dark gloom of their foliage, the most
fantastic shadows were visible. Altogether it was a
wild, romantic, and impressive scene. But little recked
my men for shadows and moonlight, for crimson tints,
and temple-like tents — they were all busy relating their
various experiences, and gorging themselves with the
rich meats our guns had obtained for us. One was
telling how he had stalked a wild boar, and the furious
onset the wounded beast made on him, causing him to
drop his gun, and climb a tree, and the terrible grunt
of the beast he well remembered, and the whole welkin
rang with the peals of laughter which his mimic powers
evoked. Another had shot a buffalo-calf, and another
had bagged a hartebeest; the Wakonongo related
their laughable rencontre with me in the woods, and
were lavish in their description of the stores of honey
to be found in the woods; and all this time Selim
and his youthful subs were trying their sharp teeth
on the meat of a young pig which one of the hunters
had shot, but which nobody else would eat, because
of the Mohammedan aversion to pig, which thev had
acquired during their transformation from negro
savagery to the useful docility of the Zanzibar freed-man.
We halted the two following days, and made frequent
raids on the herds of this fine country. The first day I
was fairly successful again in the sport. I bagged a
couple of antelopes, a kudu {A. strepsiceros) with tine
twisting horns, and a pallah-buck (.1. melamptis), a
reddish-brown animal, standing about three and a half
feet, with broad posteriors. I might have succeeded in
getting dozens of animals had I any of those accurate,
heavy ritles manufoctured by Lancaster, O'Keilly, or
Blissctt, wliose every sliot tells. But my weapons,
242
BOJr I FOUSD LIViyOhTOXE.
save my light smooth-bore, were unfit for African game.
My weapons were more for men. "With the Winchester
rifle, and the Starr's carbine, I was able to hit an^-thins:
within two hundred yards, but the animals, though
wounded, invariably managed to escape the knife, until
I was disgusted with the pea-bullets. What is wanted
for this country is a heavy bore — Xo. 10 or 12 is the
real bone-crusher — that will drop every animal shot,
in its tracks, by which all fatigue and disappointment
are avoided. Several times during these two davs
was I disappointed after most laborious stalking and
creeping along the ground. Once I came suddenly
upon an eland while I had a Winchester rifle in my
hand — the eland and myself mutually astonished — at not
more than twenty-five yards apart. I fired at its chest,
and the bullet, true to its aim, sped far into the internal
parts, and the blood spouted from the wound : in a few
minutes he was far away, and I was too much disap-
pointed to follow him. All love of the chase seemed to
be dying away before these several mishaps. What
were two antelopes for one day's sport to the thousands
that browsed over the plain ?
The animals taken to camp during our three days'
sport were two buffaloes, two wild boar, three hartebeest,
one zebra, and one pallah ; besides which, were shot
eight guinea-fowls, three florican, two fish-eagles, one
pelican, and one of the men caught a couple of large
sihirus fish. In the meantime the people had cut, sliced,
and dried this bounteous store of meat for our transit
throuDfh the longr wilderness before us.
Saturday tlie Tth day of October, we broke up camp,
to the great regret of the meat-loving, gormandizing
Wangwana. They delegated Bombay early in the
morning to speak to me, and entreat of me to stop
Oct. 1871.]
TO MREBA, UKONONOO.
343
one day longer. It was ever the case ; tbey had always
an unconquerable aversion to work, when in presence of
meat. Bombay was well scolded for bearing any such
request to me after two days' rest, during which time
they had been filled to repletion of meat. And Bombay
was by no means in the best of humor, flesh-pots full
of meat were more to his taste than a constant tramping,
and its consequent fatigues. I saw his face settle into
sulky ugliness, and his great nether lip hanging down
limp, which meant as if expressed in so many words,
** Well, get them to move yourself, you wicked hard
man ! I shall not help you."
An ominous silence followed my order to the kiran-
gozi to sound the Lorn, and the usual singing and
chanting were not heard. The men turned sullenly
to their bales, and Asmani, the gigantic guide, our fundi,
was heard grumblingly to say he was sorry lie had en-
gaged to guide me to tlie Tanganika. However, they
started, though reluctantly. I stayed behind with my
gunbearers, to drive the stragglers on. In about half an
hour I sighted the caravan at a dead stop, with the
bales thrown on tlie ground, and the men standing in
groups conversing angrily and excitedly.
Taking my double-barrel gun from Selim's shoulder,
I selected a dozen charges of buck-shot, and slipping
two of theui into the barrels, and adjusting my revolvers
in order for handy work, I walked on towards them.
I noticed that the men seized their guns, as I ad\ anced.
When within thirty yards of the groups, I discovered
the heads of two men appear above an anthill on my
left, with the barrels of their guns carelessly pointed
toward the road.
I halted, threw the barrel of my gun into the hollow
of the left hand, and then, taking a deliberate aim ut
344
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
them, threatened to blow their heads off if they
did not come forward to talk to me. These two men
were, gigantic Asmani and his sworn companion
Mabruki, the guides of Sheikh bin Nasib. As it was
dangerous not to comply with such an order, they
presently came, but, keeping my eye on Asmani, I saw
him move his fingers to the trigger of his gun, and
bring his gun to a " ready." Again I lifted my gun,
and threatened him with instant death, if he did not
drop his gun.
Asmani came on in a sidelong way with a smirking
smile on his face, but in his eyes shone the lurid light
of murder, as plainly as ever it shone in a villain's
eyes. Mabruki sneaked to my rear, deliberately
putting powder in the pan of his musket, but sweeping
the gun sharply round, I planted the muzzle of it at
about two feet from his wicked-looking face, and
ordered him to drop his gun instantly. He let it fall
from his hand quickly, and giving him a vigorous
poke in the breast with my gun, which sent him
reeling away a few feet from me, I faced round to
Asmani, and ordered him to put his gun down, accom-
panying it with a nervous movement of my gun,
pressing gently on the trigger at the same time. Never
was a man nearer his death than was Asmani during
those few moments. I was reluctant to shed his blood,
and I was willing to try all possible means to avoid
doing so ; but if I did not succeed in cowing this
ruffian, authority was at an end. The truth was, they
feared to proceed further on the road, and the only
possible way of inducing them to move was by an
overpowering force, and exercise of my power and
will in this instance, even though he miglit pay the
penalty of his disobedience with death. As I was
Oct. 1871.]
TO MBERA, UEONONGO.
343
beginning to feel that Asmani had passed his last
moment on earth, as he was lifting his gun to his
shoulder, a form came up from behind him, and swept
his gun aside with an impatient, nervous movement, and
I heard Mabruki Speke say in horror-struck accents :
" Man, how dare you point your gun at the master? "
Mabruki then threw himself at my feet, and en-
deavoured to kiss them and entreated me not to punish
him. " It was all over now," he said ; " there would be
no more quarreling, they would all go to the Tanga-
nika, without any more noise ; and Inshallah ! " said
he, "we shall find the old Musungu at Ujiji."
" Speak, men, freedmen, shall we not ? — shall we not
go to the Tanganika without any more trouble ? tell
the master with one voice."
" Ay Wallah ! Ay Wallah ! Bana yangd ! Hamuna
manneno mgini ! " which literally translated meaiis,
" Yes by God ! Yes by God ! my master ! There are no
other words," said each man loudly.
" Ask the master's pardon, man, or go thy way,"
said Mabruki peremptorily, to Asmani : which Asmani
did, to the gratification of us all.
It remained for me only to extend a general pardon
to all, except to Bombay and Ambari, the instigators
of the mutiny, which was now happily quelled. For
Bombay could have by a word, as my captain, nipped
all manifestation of bad temper at the outset, had he
been so disposed. But no, liombay was more averse
to marching than the cowardliest of his fellows, not
because he was cowardly, but because he loved in-
dolence, and made a god of his belly. So snatching up
a spear, I laid its stalT vigorously on his shoulders, and
then sprang upon Ambari, wlK)se mocking i'ace soon
underwent a remarkable transformation, and then
346
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
clapped tliem both in chains, with a threat that they
•would be kept chained until they knew how to ask my
pardon ; and Asmani and Mabruki were told to be
cautious not to exhibit their ugly tempers any more,
lest they might taste the death they had fortunately
escaped.
Again the word was given to march, and each man,
with astonishing alacrity, seized his load, and filed off
quickly out of sight, Bombay and Arabari in the rear
in chains, with Kingaru and Asmani, the deserters,
weighted with the heaviest loads.
We had barely travelled an hour from the Gombe
before Bombay and Ambari in trembling accents
implored my pardon, which I permitted them to con-
tinue for half-an-hour longer, when I finally relented,
releasing them both from their chains, and restoring the
former to his full honors as captain.
"While on this subject, I may as well give here a
sketch of each of the principal men whose names must
often appear in the following chapters. According to
rank, they consist of Bombay, ^labruki Speke, Asmani
the guide, Chowpereh, Ulimengo, Khamisi, Ambari,
Jumah, Ferajji the cook, Maganga the Mnyamwezi,
Selim the Arab boy, and youthful Kalulu a gunbearer.
Bombay has received an excellent character from
Burton, Speke, and Grrant, but I am sorry to say he
will never be able to have it endorsed by me. " In-
carnation of honesty " Burton grandly terms him.
The truth is, though, that Bombay was neither very
honest nor very dishonest, i.e., he did not venture to
steal much. He sometimes contrived cunningly, as he
distributed the meat, to hide a very large share for his
own use. This peccadillo of his did not disturb me
much ; he deserved as captain a larger bliarc than the
Oct, 1871.]
TO MREEA, UKONONGO.
347
others. He required to be closely watched, and when
aware that this was the case, he seld m ventured to
appropriate more cloth than I would have freely given
him, had he asked for it. As a personal servant, or
valet, he would have been unexceptionable, but as a
captain or jemadar over his fellows, he was out of his
proper sphere. It was too much brain-work, and was
too productive of anxiety to keep him in order. At
times he was helplessly imbecile in his movements,
forgot every order the moment it was given him,
consistently broke or lost some valuable article, was
fond of argument, and addicted to bluster. He thinks
Hajji Abdullah one of the wickedest white men born,
because he saw him pick up men's skulls and put them
in sacks, as if he was about to prepare a horrible
medicine with them. He wanted to know whether his
former master had written down all he himself did,
and when told that Burton had not said anything, in
his books upon the Lake llegions, upon collecting-
skulls at Kilwa, thought I would be doing a good work
if I published this important fact.* Bombay intends to
make a pilgrimage to visit Speke's grave some day.
Mabruki, "llas-bukra Mabruki," Bull-headed Mabruki,
as Burton calls him, Mabruki Speke, as he was called by
us in distinction from other Mabrukis, is a very much
abused man in my opinion. Burton and Mabruki had
glorious quarrels with each other, so the latter tells me,
and if he is to be believed his master did not come off
always best. The great traveller used to call to liim in
Arabic, and abuse him in the ciioice vocabulary of El
Scham. " Ji'ib el haleeb Bil-alek," Mabruki says, used
* I find upon returning to England, that Capt. Burton lias informed tho
world of this "wicked and aboniinablo deed," in his book upon Zanzibar,
and that tlio interesting collection may bo seen at the lioyal College of
SurgeoiLS, London.
348
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to be told him often ; which means, " Bring the milk,
you ." Well, I am sure I am not sufficiently
up in Syrian Arabic to be able to translate the last
word. It' is something awful, I have no doubt, because
it still exercises Mabruki considerably. Mabruki says
he would like to have a stand-up fight with his former
master," but I do not think he would hurt him very
much, after all. But Mabruki, though he is stupid, is
faithful. He is entirely out of his element as valet, he
might as well be clerk. As a watchman he is invaluable,
as a second captain or fundi, whose duty it is to bring
up stragglers, he is superexceilent. He is ugly, and
vain, but he is no coward.
Asmani the guide is a large fellow, standing over six
feet, with the neck and shoulders of a Hercules.
Besides being guide, he is a fundi, sometimes called
Fundi Asmani, or hunter. A very superstitious man, who
takes great care of his gun, and talismanic plaited cord,
which he has dipped in the blood of all the animals he has
ever shot. He is afraid of lions, and will never venture
out where lions are known to be. All other animals he
regards as game, and is indefatigable in their pursuit.
He is seldom seen without a smile on his face, not a
kindly kind, but an apologetic, a treacherous smile. He
could draw a knife across a man's throat and still smile.
Chowpereh is a sturdy short man of thirty or there-
abouts ; very good-natured, and humorous. "When
Chowpereh speaks in his dry Mark Twain style, the
whole camp laughs. I never quarrel with Chowpereh,
never did quarrel with him. A kind word given to
Chowpereh is sure to be reciprocated with a good
deed. He is the strongest, the healthiest, the amiablest,
the faithfullest of all. He is the embodiment of a good
follower.
Oct. 1871.]
TO MRERA, UKOXONGO.
Khamisi is a neat, cleanly boy of twenty or there-
abouts, active, loud-voiced, a boaster, and the cowardliest
of the cowardly. He will steal at every opportunity.
He clings to his gun most affectionately ; is always
excessively anxious if a screw gets looser or if a flint
■will not strike fire, yet 1 doubt that he would be able to
fire his gun at an enemy from excessive trembling.
Khamisi would rather trust his safety to his feet, ■which
are small, and well shaped.
Ambari is a man of about forty. He is one of the
" Faithfuls " of Speke, and one of my Faithfuls. He
■would not run away from me except when in the
presence of an enemy, and imminent personal danger.
He is clever in his way, but is not sufiSciently clever to
enact the part of captain, could take charge of a small
party, and give a very good account of them. Is lazy,
and an admirer of good living, abhors marching, unless
he has nothing to carry but his gun.
Jumah is the best abused man of the party. Not by
me, however, for I very seldom quarrel with him,
because he has old-womanish ways with him, and in
his old-womanish ways is disposed to do the best he can
for me, though he will not carry a pound in weight
without groaning terribly at his hard fate. To me he
is sentimental and pathetic ; to the unimportant members
of the caravan he is stern and uncompromising. But
the truth is, that I could well have dispensed with
Jumah's presence : he was one of the incorrigible
inuiilcft, eating far more tlian he was worth ; besides
being an excessively grumbling and querulous fool.
Ullmengo, a strong stalwart fellow of thirty, was the
maddest and mo.st hare-brained of my i)arty. Tliough
an arrant coward, he was a consummate boaster. I>ut
though a devotee of pleasure autl fun, lie was nut averse
350
HOW I FOUXD LIVINGSTONE.
from work. "With one hundred men such as lie, I could
travel through Africa provided there was no fighting
to do. It will be remembered that he was the martial
coryphfeus who led my little army to war against
Mirambo, chanting the battle-song of the "Wangwana ;
and that I stated, that when the retreat was determined
upon, he was the first of my party to reach the strong-
hold of Mfuto. He is a swift runner, and a fair
hunter. I have been indebted to him on several
occasions, for a welcome addition to my larder.
Ferajji, a former dishwasher to Speke, was my cook.
He was promoted to this office upon the defection of
Bunder Salaam, and the extreme non-fitness of Abdul
Kader. For cleaning dishes, the first corn-cob, green
twig, a bunch of leaves or grass, answered Ferajji's
purposes in the absence of a cloth. If I ordered a plate,
and I pointed out a black, greasy, footy, thumbmark
to him, a rub of a finger Ferajji thought sufficient to
remove all objections. If I hinted that a spoon was
rather dirty, Ferajji fancied that with a little saliva,
and a rub of his greasy loin cloth, tlie most fastidious
ought to be satisfied. Every pound of meat, and every
three spoonfuls of musk or porridge I ate in Africa,
contained at least ten grains of sand. Ferajji was
considerably exercised at a threat I made to him that
on arrival at Zanzibar, I would get the great English
doctor there to open my stomach, and count every grain
of sand found in it, for each grain of which Ferajji
should be charged one dollar. The consciousness that
my stomach must contain a large number, for which
the forfeits would be heavy, made him feel very sad at
times. Otherwise, Ferajji was a good cook, most
industrious, if not accomplished. He could' produce a
cup of tea, and three or four hot pancakes, within ten
Oct. 1871.1
TO MRERA, UKOXONGO.
£51
minutes after a halt was ordered, for which I was most
grateful, as I was almost always hungry after a long
march. Ferajji sided with Baraka against Bomhay
in Unyoro, and when Spehe took Bombay's side of the
question, Ferajji, out of love for Baraka, left Speke's
service, and so forfeited his pay.
Maganga was a Mnyamwezi, a native of Mkwenkwe,
a strong, faithful servant, an excellent pagazi, with an
irreproachable temper. He it was who at all times,
on the march, started the wildly exuberant song of the
Wanyamwezi porters, which, no matter how hot the
sun, or how long the march, was sure to. j)roduce
gaiety and animation among the people. At such
times all hands sang, sang with voices that could
be heard miles away, which made the great forests
ring with the sounds, which startled every animal big
or little, for miles around. On approaching a village
the temper of whose people might be hostile to us,
Maganga would commence his song, with the entire
party joining in the chorus, b}' which mode we knew
whether the natives were disposed to be friendly or
hostile. If hostile, or timid, the gates would at once
be closed, and dark foces would scowl at us from the
interior ; if friendly, they rushed outside of their gates
to welcome us, or to exchange friendly r^narks.
The most important member of the Expedition, next
to myself, was Selim, the young Arab boy, a Chiistian
from Jerusalem. He was educated by good Bishop
Gobat, and if all the Arab boys of his school turn out
as well as Selim, then Bishop Gobat deserves the
highest praise for his noble work. Without Selim I
must have perislied at Mfuto ; without Selim I could
not have so well obtained the friendshii) of the chief
Arabs in the interior ; neither could I have well com-
C52 ^ now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
municated with them, for though I understood Arabic,
I could not speak it. I employed this boy in January
1870 ; since which time he had travelled with me through
Southern Russia, the Caucasus, and Persia. In my
service he was honest and faithful, if called to the
death ; he was without fear, and without reproach ;
and I feel while recording these praises of him that
they are totally insufficient to convey my sense of the
services he rendered to me.
I have already related how Kalulu came to be in my
service, and how he came to bear his present name. I
soon found how apt and quick he was to learn, in
consequence of which, he was promoted to the rank of
personal attendant. Even Selim could not vie with
Kalulu in promptness and celerity, or in guessing my
wants at the table. His little black eyes were con-
stantly roving over the dishes, studying out the
problem of what was further necessary, or had become
unnecessary.
We arrived at the Ziwani, in about 4 h. 30 m.
from the time of our quitting the scene which
had well-nigh witnessed a sanguinary conflict. The
Ziwani, or pool, contained no water, not a drop,
until the parched tongues of my j^eople warned them
that they must proceed to excavate for water. This
excavation was performed (by means of strong hard
sticks sliarply pointed) in the dry hard-caked bottom.
After digging to a depth of six feet their labours were
rewarded with the sight of a few drops of muddy
liquid percolating through the sides, which were
eagerly swallowed to relieve their raging thirst. Some
voluntarily started with buckets, gourds, and canteens
south to a deserted clearing called the " Tongoni " in
Ukamba, and in about three hours returned with a
SKI,IM THK TNTKUrRKTER.
Oct. 1871.]
TO MREBA, UKONONQO.
353
plentiful supply for immediate use, of good and clear
water.
In 1 h. 30 m. we arrived at this Tongoni, or de-
serted clearing of the Wakamba. Here were three or
four villages burnt, and an extensive clearing desolate,
tjie work of the Wa-Ruga-Ruga of Mirambo. Those
of the inhabitants who were left, after the spoliation
and complete destruction of the flourishing settlement,
emigrated westerly to Ugara. A large herd of buffalo
now slake their thirst at the pool which supplied the
villages of Ukamba with water.
Great masses of iron hfematite cropped up above the
surface in these forests. Wild fru t began to be abun-
dant ; the wood-apple and tamarind and a small plum-
like fruit, furnished us with many an agreeable repast.
The honey-bird is very frequent in these forests
of Ukonongo. Its cry is a loud, quick chirrup.
The Wakonongo understand how to avail themselves
of its guidance to the sweet treasure of honey, which
the wild bees have stored in the cleft of some great tree.
Daily, the Wakonongo who had joined our caravan
brought me immense cakes of honey-comb containing
delicious white and red honey. The red honey-comb
generally contains large numbers of dead bees, but our
exceedingly gluttonous people thought little of these.
They not only ate the honey-bees, but they also ate
a good deal of the wax.
As soon as the honey-bird descries the traveller, he
immediately utters a series of wild, excited cries, hops
about from twig to twig, and from branch to branch,
then liops to another tree, incessantly repeating his
chirruping call. The native, understanding the nature
of the little bird, unhesitatingly follows him ; but per-
haps his 6.:eps are too slow for the imjsatient caller,
2 A
354
* HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
upon which he flies back, urging with louder, more
impatient cries, to hasten, and then darts swiftly for-
ward, as if he would show how quickly he could go to
the honey-store, until at last the treasure is reached,
the native has applied fire to the bees' nest, and secured
the honey, while the little bird preens himself, and
chirrups in triumphant notes, as if he were informing
the biped that without his aid he never could have
found the honey.
Buffalo gnats and tsetse were very troublesome on
this march, owing to the numerous herds of game in
the vicinity.
On the 9th of October we made a long march in a
southerly direction, and formed our camp in the centre
of a splendid grove of trees. The water was very
scarce on the road. The Wamrima and Wanyamwezi
are not long able to withstand thirst. When water
is plentiful they slake their thirst at every stream and
pool ; when it is scarce, as it is here and in the deserts
of Marenga and Magimda Mkali, long afternoon-
marches are made ; the men previously, however, filling
their gourds, so as to enable them to reach the water
early next morning. Selim was never able to endure
thirst. It mattered not, how much of the precious
liquid he carried, he generally drank it all before
reaching camp, and he consequently suffered during
♦ the night. Besides this, he endangered his life
by quaffing from every muddy pool ; and on this day
he began to complain that he discharged blood, which
I took to be an incipient stage of dysentery.
During these marches, ever since quitting Ugunda,
a favourite topic at the camp-fires were the Wa-Buga-
Buga, and their atrocities, and a possible encounter
that we might liave with these bold rovers of the forest.
Oct. 1871.]
TO MR ERA, UKONONOO. ^
S65
I verily believe that a sudden onset of half a dozen of
Mirambo's people would have set the whole caravan
a-running.
We reached Marefu the next day, after a short three
hours' march. We there found an embassy sent by the
Arabs of TJnyanyembe, to the Southern Watuta, bear-
ing presents of several bales, in charge of Hassan the
Mseguhha. This valiant leader and diplomatist had
halted here some ten days, because of wars, and ru-
mours of wars in his front. It was said that Mbogo,
Sultan of Mbogo in Ukonongo, was at war with the
brother of Manwa Sera, and as Mbogo was a large
district of Ukonongo, only two days' march from Marefu,
fear of being involved in it was deterring old Hassan
from proceeding. He advised me also not to proceed,
as* it was impossible to be able to do so without being
embroiled in the conflict. I informed him that I
intended to proceed on my way, and take my chances,
and graciously offered him my escort as far as the
frontier of Ufipa, from which he could easily and
safely continue on his -way to the Watuta, but he
declined it.
We had now been travelling fourteen days in a
south-westerly direction, having made a little more
than one degree of latitude. I had intended to have
gone a little further south, because it was such a good
road, also since by going further south we should liave
laboured under no fear of meeting Mirambo ; but the
report of this war in our front, only two days off, com-
pelled me, in the interest of the Expedition, to strike
across towards the Tanganika, on a west-by-north
course through the forest, travelling, when it was advan-
tageous, along elephant tracks and local paths. This
new j)lan was adopted after consulting with Asmani,
3o6
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the giiide. "We were now in Ukonongo, haVing entered
this district when we crossed the Gombe creek.
The next day after arriving at Marefu we plunged
westward, in view of the villagers, and the Arab
ambassador, who kept repeating until the last moment
that we should " certainly catch it."
We marched eight hours through a forest, where the
forest peach, or the " mbembu," is abundant. The tree
that bears this fruit is very like a pear-tree, and is
very productive. I saw one tree, upon which I esti-
mated there were at least six or seven bushels. I ate
numbers of the peaches on this day. So long as this
fruit cai^ be procured, a traveller in these regions need
notfear starvation.
At the base of a graceful hilly cone we found a
village called Utende, the inhabitants of which were in
a state of great alarm, as we suddenly appeared on the
ridge above them. Diplomacy urged me to send forward
a present of one doti to the Sultan, who, however, would
not accept it, because he happened to be drunk with
pombe, and was therefore disposed to be insolent.
Upon being informed that he would refuse any present,
unless he received four more cloths, I immediately
ordered a strong boma to be constructed on the summit
of a little hill, near enough to a plentiful supply of
wat«r, and quietly again packed up the present in the
bale. I occupied a strategically chosen position, as I
could have swept the face of the hill, and the entire
space between its base and the village of the Watcnde.
Watchmen were kept on the look-out all night; but
we were fortunately not troubled until tlie morning,
when a delegation of the principal men came to ask
if I intended to depart without having made a present
to tlie chief. I replied to them that I did not intend
Oct. 1871.J TO MREItA, UKOKONGO. • 857
passing through any country without making friends
with the chiefs ; and if their chief would accept a good
cloth from me, I would freely give it to him. Though
they demurred at the amount of the present at first,
the difference between us was finally ended by my
adding a fundo of red beads — sami-sami — for the chief's
wife.
From the hill and ridge of Utende sloped a forest
for miles and miles westerly, which was terminated by
a grand and smooth-topped ridge rising 500 or 600 feet
above the plain.
A four liours' march, on the 12th of October, brought
us to a nullah similar to the Gombe, which, during the
wet season, flows to the Gombe Eiver, and thence into
the Malagarazi River.
A little before camping we saw a herd of nimba, or
pallah ; I had the good fortune to shoot one, which was
a welcome addition to our fast diminishing store of
dried meats, prepared in our camp on the Gombe. By
the quantity of bouse de vache, we judged buffaloes were
plentiful here, as well as elephant and rhinoceros. The
feathered species were well represented by ibis, fish-
eagles, pelicans, storks, cranes, several snowy spoon-
bills, and flamingoes.
From the nullah, or mtoni, we proceeded to Mwaru,
the principal village of the district of Mwaru, the chief
of which is Ka-mirambo. Our march lay over deso-
lated clearings once occupied by Ka-mirambo's peo])le,
but who were driven away by Mkasiwa some ten years
ago, during his warfare against Manwa Sera. Niongo,
the brother of the latt.M-, now waging war against
Mbogo, had pa.-sed through Mwaru tlie day before we
arrived, after being defe ited by his enemy.
The hilly ridge that bounded the westward horizon.
358 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
visible from Utende, was surmounted on this day. The
western slope trends south-west, and is drained by the
River Mrera, which empties into the Malagarazi River.
We perceived the influence of the Tanganika, even
here, though we were yet twelve or fifteen marches
from the lake. The jungles increased in density, and the
grasses became enormously tall ; these points reminded
us of the maritime districts of Ukwere and Ukami.
We heard from a caravan at this place, just come
from Ufipa, that a white man was reported to be in
"TJrua," which I supposed to mean Livingstone.
Upon leaving Mwaru we entered the district of
Mrera, a chief who once possessed great power and
influence over this region. Wars, however, have
limited his possessions to three or four villages snugly
embosomed within a jungle, whose outer rim is so
dense that it serves like a stone wall to repel invaders.
There were nine bleached skulls, stuck on the top of as
many poles, before the principal gate of entrance,
which told us of existing feuds between the Wako-
nongo and the Wazavira. This latter tribe dwelt in a
country a few marches west of us ; whose territory we
should have to avoid, unless we sought another oppor-
tunity to distinguish ourselves in battle with the
natives. The Wazavira, we were told by the Wako-
nongo of Mrera, were enemies to all Wangwana.
In a narrow strip of marsh between Mwaru and
Mrera, we saw a small herd of -wild elephants. It was
the first time I had ever seen these animals in their
native wildness, and my first impressions of them I
shall not readily forget. I am induced to think that
the elephant deserves the title of "king of beasts." His
huge form, the lordly way in which he stares at an
intruder on his domain, and his whole appearance indi-
Oct. 1871.1 TO MBERA, UKONONGO. 359
cative of conscious might, afiford good grounds for his
claim to that title. This herd, as we passed it at the
distance of a mile, stopped to survey the caravan as it
passed ; and, after having satisfied their curiosity, the
elephants trooped into the forest which bounded the
marshy plain southward, as if caravans were every-day
things to them, whilst they — the free and unconquerable
lords of the forest and the marsh — had nothing in com-
mon with the cowardly bipeds, who never found courage
to face them in fair combat. The destruction which a
herd makes in a forest is simply tremendous.. When the
trees are young, whole" swathes may be found uprooted
and prostrate, which mark the track of the elephants as
they " trampled their path through wood and brake."
The boy Selim was so ill at this place that I was
compelled to halt the caravan for him for three days.
He seemed to be affected with a disease in the limbs,
which caused him to sprawl, and tremble most painfully,
besides suffering from an attack of acute dysentery.
But constant attendance and care soon brought him
round again ; and on the fourth day he was able to
endure the fatigue of riding.
I was able to shoot several animals during our stay at
Mrera. The forest outside of the cultivation teems with
noble animals. Zebra, giraffe, elephant, and rhinoceros
are most common : ptarmigan and guinea-fowl were
also plentiful.
Tlie warriors of Mrera are almost all armed with
muskets, of which they take great care. They were
very importunate in their demands for flints, bullets,
and powder, whicli I always made it a point to refuse,
lest at any moment a fracas occurring they might use
the ammunition thus supplied to my own disadvantage.
The men of this village were an idle set, doing little
360
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE
but hunting, gaping, gossiping, and playing like great
boys.
During the interval of my stay at Mrera I employed
a large portion of my time in mending my shoes, and
patching up the great rents in my clothes, which the
thorn species, during the late marches, had almost
destroyed. Westward, beyond Mrera, was a wilderness,
the transit of which we were warned would occupy
nine days ; hence arose the necessity to purchase a large
supply of grain, which, ere attempting the great unin-
habited void in our front, was to be ground and sifted.
VILW IN UVINZA.
CHAPTER XI.
THROUGH UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.
Ukonongo. h. m.
From Mrera to Mtoni . 4 30
Misonghi .... 4 30
Mtoni 6 0
Mpokwa in Utanda . 4 45
Mtoni 3 0
Ukawendi.
Mtainhu River. . . 4 30
Imrcra . . ... 4 20
Rusawa Mts. ... 2 30
Mtoni 4 0
Mtoni 5 0
Camp in Forest ..60
Camp in Forest . . 5 30
UVINZA.
Welled Nzogera . . 2 30
h. m.
Camp in Forest . . 4 15
Siala on the Malagarazi 2 45
Ihata Island in the
Malagarazi ... 1 30
Eatalambula . . 1 45
UiinA.
Kawanga in Uhha . 5 30
Lukomo „ .10
Kahirigi „ .40
Rusngi River ... 5 0
Lake Musunya ..40
Rugufii River ... 4 30
Sniinzzi „ . . . 3 0
Nianitaga Ukaranga . 9 30
Ujiji. PortofUjjii . 6 0
We bade farewell to Mrera on the ITtli of October,
to continue our route north-westward. All the men
362
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
and I were firm friends now; all squabbling had long
ceased. Bombay and I had forgotten our quarrel ; the
kirangozi and myself were ready to embrace, so loving
and affectionate were the terms upon which we stood
towards one another. Confidence returned to all hearts
— for now, as Mabruk Unyanyembe said, " we could
smell the fish of the Tanganika." Unyanyembe, with
all its disquietude, was far behind. We could snap our
fingers at that terrible Mirambo and his unscrupulous
followers, and by-and-by, perhaps, we may be able to
laugh at the timid seer who always prophesied por-
tentous events — Sheikh, the son of Nasib. We laughed
joyously, as we glided in Indian file through the young
forest jungle beyond the clearing of Mrera, and boasted
of our prowess. Oh ! we were truly brave that
morning !
Emerging from the jungle, we entered a thin forest, .
where numerous ant-hills were seen like so many sand
dunes. I imagine that these ant-hills were formed
during a remarkably wet season, when, possibly, the
forest-clad plain was inundated. I have seen the ants
at work by thousands, engaged in the work of erecting
their hills in other districts suffering from inunda-
tion. What a wonderful system of cells these tiny
insects construct ! A perfect labyrinth — cell within
cell, room within room, hall within hall — an exhibition
of engineering talents and high architectural capacity
— a model city, cunningly contrived for safety and
comfort !
Emerging after a short hour's march out of the
forest, we welcome the siglit of a nnu-muring trans-
lucent stream, swiftly flowing towards the north-west,
which we regard with the pleasure which only men
who have for a lung time sickened themselves with
Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJl. 363
that potable liquid of the foulest kind, found in salinas,
mbugas, pools, and puddle-holes, can realize. Beyond
this stream rises a rugged and steep ridge, from the
summit of which our eyes are gladdened with scenes
that are romantic, animated, and picturesque. They
form an unusual feast to eyes sated with looking into
the depths of forests, at towering stems of trees, and at
tufted crowns of foliage. We have now before us
scores of cones, dotting the surface of a plain which
extends across Southern Ukonongo to the territory of
the Wafipa, and which readies as far as tlie Rikwa
Plain. The immense prospect before which we are sud-
denly ushered is most varied ; exclusive of conical hills
and ambitious flat-topped and isolated mountains, we
are in view of the watersheds of the Rungwa River,
which empties into the Tanganika south of where we
, stand, and of the Malagarazi River, which the Tan-
ganika receives, a degree or so north of this position.
A single but lengthy latitudinal ridge serves as a
dividing line to the watershed of the Rungwa and
Malagarazi ; and a score of miles or so further west
of this ridge rises another, which runs north and
south.
We camped on this day in the jungle, close to a
narrow ravine with a marshy bottom, through the oozy,
miry contents of which the waters from the watershed
of the Rungwa slowly trickled southward towards the
Rikwa Plain, This was only one of many ravines,
however, some of which were several hundred yards
broad, others were but a few yards in width, the
bottoms of which were most dangerous quagmires,
overgrown with dense tall reeds and papyrus. Over
the suiface of these great depths of mud were seen
hundreds of thin threads of slimy ochre-colored water,
364
EOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
which swarmed with animalculae. Bj-and-by, a few
miles south of the base of this ridge (which I call
Kasera, from the country which it cuts in halves),
these several ravines converge and debouch into the
broad, marshy, oozy, spoiigy " river " of Usense, which
trends in a south-easterly direction ; after which,
gathering the contents of the watercourses from the
north and north-east into its own broader channel, it
soon becomes a stream of some breadth and conse-
quence, and meets a river flowing from the east, from
the direction of Urori, with which it conflows in the
Rikwa Plain, and empties about sixty rectilineal miles
further west into the Tanganika Lake. The Eungwa
River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line
between the country of Usowa on the north, and Ufipa
on the south.
We had barely completed the construction of our ,
camp defences when some of the men were heard
challenging a small party of natives which advanced
towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his
garb and head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar.
After interchanging the customary salutations, I was
informed that this party was an embassy from Simba
(" Lion "), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern Unya-
mwezi. Simba, I was told, was the son of Mkasiwa,
King of Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the
Wazavira, of whom I was warned to beware. He had
heard such reports of my greatness that he was sorry I
did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have
had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends
with me ; but in the absence of a personal visit Simba
had sent this embassy to overtake me, in the hope that
1 would present him with a token of my friendship in
the shape of cloth. Though 1 was rather taken aback
4
♦
Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHJTA, TO UJIJI. 365
by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this
powerful chief my friend, lest on my return from the
search after Livingstone he and I might fall out.
And since it was incumbent on me to make a present,
for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit my
desire for peace by giving — if I gave at all — a royal
present. The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba,
or the " Lion " of Kasera, two gorgeous cloths, and two
other doti consisting of Merikani and Kaniki ; and, if I
might believe the ambassador, I had made Simba a
friend for ever.
On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual
hour, we continued our march north-westward by a
road which zig-zagged along the base of the Kasera
mountains, and which took us into all kinds of diffi-
culties. We traversed at least a dozen marshy ravines,
the depth of mire and water in which caused the
utmost anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep holes
in the Stygian ooze caused by elephants, and had to
tramp through the oozy beds of the Rungwa sources
with ray clothes wet and black with mud and slime.
Decency forbade that I should strip, and wade through
the sedgy marsh naked ; and the hot sun would also
blister my body. Moreover, these morasses were too
frequent to lose time in undressing and dressing, and,
as each man was weighted with his own proper load, it
would liave been cruel to compel the men to bear me
across. Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on,
all encumbered as I was with ray clothing and accoutre-
raents, into these several raarshy watercourses, with all
the pliilosophical stoicism that ray nature could muster
for such emergencies. But it was very uncomfortable,
to say the least of it.
We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Waza-
366 HOW J FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
vira, but no enemy was in sight. Simba, in his wars,
had made clean work of the northern part of Uzavira,
and we encountered nothing worse than a view of the
desolated country, which must have been once — judg-
ing from the number of burnt huts and debris of ruined
villages — extremely populous. A young jungle was
sprouting up vigorously in their fields, and was rapidly
becoming the home of wild denizens of the forest. In
one of the deserted and ruined villages, I found quarters
for the Expedition, which were by no means uncom-
fortable. I shot three brace of guinea fowl in the
neighborhood of Misonghi, the deserted village we
occupied, and Ulimengo, one of my hunters, bagged an
antelope, called the " mbawala," for whose meat some
of the Wanyaiuwezi have a superstitious aversion. I
take this species of antelope, which stands about three
and a half feet high, of a reddish hide, head long, horns
short, to be the " Nzoe " antelope discovered by SpeUe in
Uganda, and whose Latin designation is, according to
Dr. Sclater, " Tragelaphus Spekii." It has a short
bushy tail, and long hair along the spine.
A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting
six hours, through a forest where the sable antelope
was seen, and which was otherwise prolific with game,
brought us to a stream which ran by the base of
a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite a
forest of feathery bamboo.
On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between
the stream and the conical hill above mentioned, and
surmounting a low ridge which sloped from the base of
the hill-cone, we were greeted with another picturesque
view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved
upward in all directions. A march of nearly five hours
through this picturesque country brought us to the
Oct. 1871.] UKA WENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 367
Mpokwa River, one of the tributaries of the Rungwa,
and to a village lately deserted by the Wazavira. The
huts were almost all intact, precisely as they were left
by their former inhabitants. In the gardens were yet
found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat„
were most grateful to us. On the branches of trees still
rested the Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, in the
shape of large and exceedingly well-made earthen pots.
VlLLAGl:: IN UZAVJRA — NATlVli POTTERY.
In the neighboring river one of my men snccceded,
in a few minutes, in catching sixty fish of tin; silurus
species by the hand alone. A number of birds
hovered about the stream, such as the white-headed
fish-eagle and the black kingfisher, enormous snowy
spoonbills, ibis, martins, &c. This river issued from
a mountain clump eight miles or so north of the
village of Mpokwa, and comes flowing down a narrow
thread of water, sinuously winding amongst tall reeds
368
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
and dense brakes on either side — the home of hun-
dreds of antelopes and buffaloes. South of Mpokwa,
the valley broadens, and the mountains deflect eastward
and westward, and beyond this point commences the
^lain known as the Rikwa, which, during the Masika
is inundated, but which, in the dry season, presents the
same bleached aspect that plains in Africa generally do
when the gi'ass has ripened.
Travelling up along the right bank of the Mpokwa,
on the 21st we came to the head of the stream, and
the sources of the Mpokwa, issuing out of deep defiles
enclosed by lofty ranges. The mbawala and the buffalo
were plentiful.
On the 22nd, after a march of four hours and a half,
we came to the beautiful stream of Mtambu — the water
of which was sweet, and clear as crystal, and flowed
northward. We saw for the first time the home of the
lion and the leopard. Hear what Freiligrath saj'S of
the place :
" Where the thomy brake and thicket
Densely fill the interspace
Of the trees, through whose thick branches
Never sunshine lights the place,
There the lion dwells, a monarch.
Mightiest among the brutes ;
There his right to reign supremest
Never one his claim disputes.
There he layeth down to slumber,
Having slain and ta'en his fill ;
There he roameth, there he croucheth,
As it suits his lordly will."
"We camped but a few yards from just such a place
as the poet describes. The herd-keeper wlio attended
the goats and donkeys, soon after our arrival in camp,
drove the animals to water, and in order to obtain it
Oct. 1871.] UKA WENDI, UVINZA, AND UEHA, TO UJIJl. 369
they travelled through a tunnel in the brake, caused by *
elephants and rhinoceros. They had barely entered the
dark cavernous passage, when a black-spotted leopard
sprang, and fastened its fangs in the neck of one of
the donkeys, causing it, from the pain, to bray hideously.
Its companions set up such a frightful chorus, and
so la.shed their heels in the air at the feline marauder,
as to cause the leopard to bound away through the
brake, as if in sheer dismay at the noisy cries which
the attack had provoked. The donkey's neck exhibited
some frightful wounds, but the animal was not dan-
gerously hurt.
Thinking that possibly I might meet with an adven-
ture with a lion or a leopard in that dark belt of tall
trees, under whose impenetrable shade grew the dense
thicket that formed such admirable coverts for the car-
nivorous species, I took a stroll along the awesome
place with the gunbearer, Kalulu, carrying an extra
gun, and a further supply of ammunition. "We crept
cautiously along, looking keenly into the deep dark
dens, the entrances of which were revealed to us, as
we journeyed, expectant every moment to behold the
reputed monarch of the brake and thicket, bound for-
ward to meet us, and I took a special delight in pictur-
ing, in my imagination, the splendor and majesty of
the wrathful brute, as he might stand before me. 1
peered closely into every dark opening, hoping to see
the deadly glitter of the great angry eyes, and the
glowering menacing front of the lion as he would
regard me. But, alas ! after an hour's search for
adventure, I had encountered nothing, and I accord-
ingly waxed courageous, and crept into one of these
leafy, thorny caverns, and found myself shortly stand-
ing under a canopy of foliage that was held above my
2 B
370
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
head fully a hundred feet by the shapely aud towering
stems of the royal mvide. ' Who can imagine the
position ? A smooth lawn-like glade ; a dense and
awful growth of impenetrable jungle around us ; those
stately natural pillars — a glorious phalanx of royal
trees, bearing at such sublime heights vivid green
masses of foliage, through which no single sun-ray
penetrated, while at our feet babbled the primeval
brook, over smooth pebbles, in soft tones befitting the
sacred quiet of the scene ! Who could have desecrated
this solemn, holy harmony of nature ? But just as I
was thinking it impossible that any man could be
tempted to disturb the serene solitude of the place, I
saw a monkey perched high on a branch over my head,
contemplating, with something of an awe-struck look,
the strange intruders beneath. Well, I could not help
it, I laughed— laughed loud and long, until I was
hushed by the chaos of cries and strange noises which
seemed to respond to my laughing. A troop of
monkeys, hidden in the leafy depths above, had been
rudely awakened, and, startled by the noise I made,
were hurrying away from the scene with a dreadful
clamor of cries and shrieks.
Emerging again into the broad sunlight, I strolled
further in search of something to shoot. Presently, I
saw, feeding quietly in the forest which bounded the
valley of the Mtambu on the left, a huge, reddish
colored wild boar, armed with most horrid tusks. Leav-
ing Kalulu crouched down behind a tree, and my solar
helmet behind another close by — that I might more
safely stalk the animal — I advanced towards him
some forty yards, and after taking a deliberate aim,
fired at its fore shoulder. As if nothing had hurt him
whalcver, the animal made a furious bound, and theu
•
Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.' 371
stood with his bristles erected, and tufted tail, curved
over the back — a most formidable brute in appearance.
While he was thus listening, and searching the neigli-
bourhood with his keen small eyes, I planted another
shot in his chest, which ploughed its way through his
body. Instead of falling, however, as I expected he
would, he charged furiously in the direction the bullet
had come, and as he rushed past me, another ball was
fired, which went right through him ; but still he kept
on, until, within six or seven yards from the trees
behind which Kalulu was crouching down on one
side, and the h-elmet was resting behind another, he
suddenly halted, and then dropped. But as I was
about to advance on him with my knife to cut his
throat, he suddenly started up ; his eyes had caught
sight of the little boy Kalulu, and were then, almost
immediately afterwards, attracted by the sight of the
snowy helmet. These strange objects on either side of
him proved too much for the boar, for, with a terrific
grunt, he darted on one side into a thick brake, from
which it was impossible to oust him, and as it was now
getting late, and the camp was about three miles away,
I was reluctantly obliged to return without the meat.
On our way to camp we were accompanied by a
large animal which persistently followed us on our left.
It was too dark to see plainly, but a large form was
visible, if not very clearly defined. It must have been
a lion, unless it was the ghost of the dead boar.
That night, about 11 P.M., we w.ere startled by the
roar of a lion, in close proximity to the camp. Soon
it was joined by another, and another still, and the
novelty of the thing kept me awake. I peered through
the gate of the camp, and endeavoured to sight a riflo
— n;Y little Wincliester, in the .accuracy of which I had
372. ' HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
perfect confidence ; but, alas ! for the cartridges, they
might have been as well filled with sawdust for all
the benefit I derived from them. Disgusted with the
miserable ammunition, I left the lions alone, and turned
in, with their roar as a lullaby.
That terrestrial paradise for the hunter, the valley
of the pellucid Mtambu, was deserted by us the next
morning for the settlement commonly known to the
Wakawendi as Imrera's, with as much unconcern as
though it were a howling desert. The village near
which we encamped was called Itaga, in the district of
Rusawa. As soon as we liad crossed the River Mtambu
w6 had entered Ukawendi, commonly called " Kawendi "
b}' the natives of the country.
The district of Rusawa is thickly populated. The
people are quiet and well-disposed to strangers, though
few ever come to this region from afar. One or two
"Wasawahili traders 'visit it every year qr so from
, Pumburu and Usowa ; but very little ivory being
obtained from the people, the long distance* between
the settlements serves to deter the regular trader from
venturing hither.
If caravans arrive here, the objective point to them is
the district of Pumburu, situated south-westerly one
day's good marching, or, say, thirty statute miles from
Imrera ; or they make for Usowa, on the Tanganika, vid
Pumburu, Katuma, Uyombeh, and Ugarawali. Usowa
is quite an important district on the Tanganika, popu-
lous and flourishing. This was the road we had
intended to adopt after leaving Imrera, but the
reports received at the latter place forbade such a
venture. For Mapunda, the Saltan of Usowa, though
a great friend to Arab traders, was at war with the
colony of the AVassavira, who we must remember were
Oct. ItiTl.j UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 373
driven from Mpokwa and vicinity in Utanda, and who
were said to have settled between Pumbiiru and Usowa.
It remained for us, like wise, prudent men, having
charge of a large and valuable Expedition on our hands,
to decide what to do, and what route to adopt, now that
we had approached* much nearer to Ujiji than we were to
Unyanyembe. I suggested that we should make direct
for the Tangauika by compass, trusting to no road or
guide, but to march direct west until we came to the
Tanganika, and then follow the lake shore on foot until
we came to Ujiji. For it ever haunted my mind, that,
if Dr. Livingstone should hear of my coming, which
he might possibly do if I travelled along any known
road, he would leave, and that my search for him
would consequently be a' " stern chase." But my
principal men thought it better that we should now
boldly turn our faces north, and march for the Mala-
garazi, which was said to be a large river flowing from
the east to the Tanganika. But none of ray men
knew the road to the Malagarazi, neither could guides
be hired from Sultan Imrera. We were, however,
informed that the Malagarazi Avas but two days' march
from Imrera. I thought it safe, in such a case, to
provision my men with three days' rations.
The village of Itaga is situated in a deep mountain
hollow, finely overlooking a large extent of cultivation.
The people grow sweet potatoes, manioc — out of which
tapioca is made — beans, and the holcus. Not one
chicken was to be purchased for love or money, and,
besides grain, only a lean, scraggy specimen of a goat,
a long time ago imported from Uvin/.a, was ]>rocurable.
October the 25th will be remembered by me as a
day of great troubles; in fact, a series of troubles began
Irom this date. We struck an easterly road in order to
♦
374 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
obtain a passage to the lofty plateau which bounded
the valley of Imrera on the west and on the north.
We camped, after a two and a half hours' march, at its
foot. The defile promised a feasible means of ascent to
the summit of the plateau, which rose upward in
a series of scarps a thousand feet above the valley of
Imrera.
I was given to understand by my men that they
wished to halt at this camp one day, for the purpose of
eliciting further information from Imrera concerning
the nature of the country between us and the Malagarazi.
This was, of course, nonsense, as I had already halted
one day at Imrera, and the guides had urged me to
adopt this road, as — so they argued — they had obtained
reliable information from the natives about the country.
I remembered General Andrew Jackson's advice to a
young friend of his, which was, " Look well before you
attempt to do a thing, but, when 'you have decided to
do it, go and do it, and never look behind," and this
was precisely what I intended tp do.
Towards night one of my men shot a buffalo, and
this little incident was another cause of dissension and
angry retort. The buffalo managed to escape into a
jungle, where he would be sure to be found dead in the
morning. I was asked by several belly-worshippers
and lazy gluttons if I would stop but just one day more,
that they might make their limbs strong with eating
meat. " Not an hour after sunrise to-morrow," was
my answer. Immediately ensued a general cry of " No
* posho ' — food," " You have three days' food," I an-
swered ; " but if you wish more, here is cloth : go and
buy."
But, wlien challenged to proceed to the village to
purchase, tliey each and all pleaded fatigue. They
Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJlJh 375
insisted, however, that I was in duty bound to halt one
day longer, for, even if they purchased grain, the grain
required to he ground before they could eat it. The
pampered fellows maintained this kind of argument
long. But I was inexorable. And all night they were
debating what steps to take to induce me to halt ; but
Bombay and Mabruki were already prohibited from
coming to me with any such request, upon pain of
battle k la Heenan ; and Bombay always remembered
the terrible punishment he received from Speke too well ^
to ever desire a repetition of it.
The next morning, at sunrise, I issued the order to
march " in as stern and uncompromising a tone as I
could assume,* thus precluding any allusion to a halt.
They were very sulky, and in fit mood to rebel, but, as
nothing more was left whereon to hang au argument,
they fi.nally, though reluctantly, yielded to my wiK
By the time we arrived at our caiup at the head of the
Rugufu Kiver, the men had forgotten the fat buffalo,
and were in excellent humor.
While ascending that lofty arc of. mountains which
bounded westerly and northerly the basin of Imrera,
extensive prospects southward and eastward were re-
vealed. The character of the scenery of Ukawendi is
always animated and picturesque, but never sublime.
The folds of this 'ridge contained several ruins of
bomas, which seemed to have been orected during war
time.
The mbembu fruit was plentiful along this march,
and every few minutes I could see from the rear one or
two of the men hastening to secure a treasure of it
which they discovered on the ground.
A little before reaching the camp I had a shot at a
leoj)iinl, but failed to bring him down as he bounded
376
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
away. At night tlie lions roared as at the Mtambu
River.
A lengthy march under the deep twilight shadows
of a great forest, which protected us from the hot
sunbeams, brought us, on the next day, to a camp
newly constructed by a party of Arabs from Ujiji, who
had advanced thus far on their road to Unyanyembe,
but, alarmed at the reports of the war between Mirambo
and the Arabs, had returned. Our route was along
the right bank of tlie Rugufu, a broad sluggish stream,
well choked with the matete reeds and the papyrus.
The tracks and the house de vache of buffaloes were
numerous, and there were several indications of rhino-
ceros being near. In a deep clump of timber near this
river we discovered a colony of bearded and leonine-
looking monkeys.
As we were about leaving our camp on the morning
of the 28th a herd of buffalo walked deHberately into
view. Silence was quickly restored, but not before the
animals, to their great surprise, had discovered the
danger which confronted them. We commenced stalk-
ing them, but we soon heard the thundering sound of
their gallop, after which it becomes a useless task to
follow them, with a long march in a wilderness before
one.
The road led on this day over immense sheets of
sandstone and iron ore. The water was abominable,
and scarce, and famine began to stare us in tlie face.
We travelled for six hours, and had yet seen no sign
of cultivation anywhere. According to my map we
were yet two long marches from the Malagarazi — if
Captain Burton had correctly laid down the position of
the river; according to the natives' account, we should
have arrived at the Malagarazi on this day.
Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UYINZA, AND UHEA, TO UJIJI. 377
On the 29tli we left our camp, and after a few
minutes, we were in view of the sublimest, but rug-
gedest scenes we had yet beheld in Africa. The country
was cut up in all directions by deep, wild, and narrow
ravines trending in all directions, but generally toward
the north-west, while on either side rose enormous
square masses of naked rock (sandstone), sometimes
towering, and rounded, sometimes pyramidal, some-
times in truncated cones, sometimes in circular ridges,
with sharp, rugged, naked backs, with but little vege-
tation anywhere visible, except it obtained a precarious
tenure in the fissured crown of some gigantic hill-top,
whither some soil had fallen, or at the base of the
reddish ochre scarps which everywhere lifted their
fronts to our view.
A long series of descents down rocky gullies, wherein
we were environed by threatening masses of disinte-
grated rock, brought us to a dry, stony ravine, with
mountain heights looming above us some thousand
feet high. This ravine we followed, winding around in
all directions, but which gradually widened, however,
into a broad plain, with a western trend. The road,
leaving this, struck across a low ridge to the north ;
and we were in view of deserted settlements where the
villages were built on frowning castellated masses of
rock. Near an upright mass of rock over seventy feet
high, and about f^ty yards in diameter, which dwarfed
the gigantic sycamore close to it, we made our camp,
after five hours and thirty minutes' continuous and rapid
marching.
The people were very hungr/; they had eaten every
scrap of meat, and every grain they possessed, twenty
hours before, and there was no immediate prospect of food.
I li;ul but a pound and a-half of flour left, and this would
378
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
not have sufficed to begin to feed a force of over forty-
five people ; but I had something like thirty pounds of
tea, and twenty pounds of sugar left, and I at once, as
soon as we arrived at camp, ordered every kettle to be
filled and placed on the fire, and then made tea for all.
giving each man a quart of a hot, grateful beverage,
well sweetened. Parties stole out also into the depths
of the jungle to search for wild fruit, and soon returned
laden with baskets of the wood-peach and tamarind
fruit, which, though it did not satibfy, relieved them.
That night, before going to sleep, the Wangwana set
up a loud prayer to " Allah " to give them food.
We rose betimes in the morning, determined to travel
on until food could be procured, or we dropped down
from sheer fatigue and weakness. Rhinoceros' tracks
abounded, and buffalo seemed to be plentiful, but we
never beheld a living thing. "We crossed scores of
short steeps, and descended as often into the depths of
dry, stony gullies, and then finally entered a valley,
bounded on one side by a triangular mountain with
perpendicular sides, and on the other by a bold group,
a triplet of hills. "While marching down this valley —
which soon changed its dry, bleached asj^ect to a vivid
green — we saw a forest in the distance, and shortly
found ourselves in corn-fields. Looking keenly around
for a village, we descried it on the summit of the lofty
triangular hill on our right. A loud exultant shout was
raised at the discovery. The men threw down their
packs, and began to clamor for food. Volunteers
were asked to come forward to take cloth, and scale
the heights to obtain h from the village, at any price.
While thiee or four salhed ofi'we rested on tla ground,
quite worn out.
In about an hour the foraging party returned with
Oct. 1871.] UKAWENDl, UUNZA, AND UUIIA, TO UJIJL 879
the glorious tidings that food was plentiful ; that the
village we saw was called, " Welled Nzogera's " — the
son of Nzogera — by which, of course, we knew that we
were in Uvinza, Nzogera being the principal chief in
Uvinza. We were further informed that Kzogera, the
father, was at war with Lokanda-Mira, about some salt-
pans in the valley of the Malagarazi, and that it would
be difficult to go to Ujiji by the usual road, owing to
this war ; but, for a consideration, the son of Nzogera
was willing to supply us with guides, who would take
us safely, by a northern road, to Ujiji.
Everything auguring well for our prospects, we en-
camped to enjoy the good cheer, for which our troubles
and privations, during the transit of the Ukawendi
forests and jungles, had well prepared us.
Then begun a diplomatic course of arguments re-
specting the quantity and quality of the cloths which
the son of Nzogera usually demanded from travellers.
From ten doti, we succeeded in reducing the demand
to seven and a half doti of Merikani and Kaniki, and
were successful in procuring the guides we desired.
I am now going to extract from my diary of the
march, as, without its aid, I deem it impossible to relate
fully our various experiences, so as to show them pro-
perly as they occurred to us ; and as these extracts
were written and recorded at the close of each day,
they possess more interest, in my opinion, than a cold
relation of facts, now toned down in memory.
October Zlst. Tueaday. — Camp in jungle. Direc-
tion of road, nortli-by-east. Time occupied by march,
4 hours 15 minutes.
Our road led E.N.E. for a considerable time after
lea\ ing the base of the triangular mountain whereon
tlic sou of Nzogera has established his strougliold, in
380
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
order to avoid a deep and impassable portion of marsh,
that stood between us and the direct route to the
Malagarazi Eiver. The valley sloped rapidly to this
marsh, which received in its broad bosom the drainage
of three extensive ranges. Soon we turned our faces
north-west, and prepared to cross the marsh ; and the
guides informed us, as we halted on its eastern bank,
of a terrible catastrophe which occurred a few yards
above where we were preparing to cross. They
told of an Arab and his caravan, consisting of thirty-
five slaves, who had suddenly sunk out of sight, and who
were never more heard of. This marsh, as it appeared
to us, presented a breadth of some hundreds of yards,
on which grew a close network of grass, with much
decayed matter mixed up with it. In the centre of this,
and underneath it, ran a broad, deep, and rapid stream.
As the guides proceeded across, the men stole after them
with cautious footsteps. As they arrived near the centre
we began to see this unstable grassy bridge, so curiously
provided by nature for us, move up and down in heavy
languid undulations, likfe the swell of the sea after a
storm. Where the two asses of the Expedition moved,
the grassy waves rose a foot high ; but suddenly one un-
fortunate animal plunged his feet through, and as he was
unable to rise, he soon made a deep hollow, which was
rapidly filling with water. With the aid of ten men,
however, we were enabled to lift him bodily up and laud
him on a firmer part, and guiding them both across
rapidly, the entire caravan crossed without accident.
On arriving at the other side, we struck off to the
north, and found ourselves in a delightful country, in
every way suitable for agriculturists. Great rocks rose
here and there, but in their fissures rose stately trees,
under whose umbrage nestled the villages of the people.
Nov. 1871.] UEAWENDI, XJVINZA, AND UHEA, TO UJIJI. 381
We found the various village elders greedy for cloth,
but the presence of the younger son of Nzogera's men
restrained tlieir propensity for extortion. Goats and
sheep were remarkably cheap, and in good condition ;
and, consequently, to celebrate our arrival near the
Malagarazi, a flock of eight goats were slaughtered,
and distributed to the men. **
November \st. — Striking' north-west, after leaving
our camp, and descending the slope of a mountain, we
soon beheld the anxiously looked-for Malagarazi, a
narrow but deep stream, flowing through a valley pent
in by lofty mountains. Fish-eating birds lined the trees
on its banks ; villages were thickly scattered about.
Food was abundant, and cheap.
After travelling along the left bank of the river a
few miles, we arrived at the settlements recognizing
Kiala as their ruler. I had anticipated we should be
able at once to cross the river, but difficulties arose.
We were told to camp, before any negotiations could
be entered into. When we demurred, we were informed
we might cross the river if we wished, but we should
not be assisted by any Mvinza.
Being compelled to halt for this day, the tent was
pitched in the middle of one of the villages, and the
bales were stored in one of the huts, with four soldiers
to guard them. After despatching an embassy to
Kiala, eldest son of the great chief Nzogera, to request
permission to cross the river as a peaceable caravan,
Kiala sent word that the white man should cross his
river after the payment of fifty-six cloths! Fifty-six
cloths signified a bale nearly ! Here was another
opportunity for diplomacy. Bombay and Asmani were
empowered to treat? with Kiala about the honga,
but it was not to exceed twentv-five doti. At 0 a.m..
382
MOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
haviftg spoken for seven hours, the two men returned,
with the demand for thirteen doti for Nzogera, and ten
doti for Kiala. Poor Bombay was hoarse, but Asmani
still smiled ; and I relented, congratulating myself
that the preposterous demand, which was simply
robbery, was no worse.
Three hours later another demand was made. Kiala
had been visited by a couple *of chiefs from his father ;
and the chiefs being told that a white man was at the
ferry, put in a claim for a couple of guns and a keg of
gunpowder. But here my patience was exhausted, and
I declared that they should have to take them by force,
for I would never consent to be robbed and despoiled
after any such fashion.
Until 11 p. 31., Bombay and Asmani were negotiating
about this extra demand, arguing, quarrelling, threaten-
ing, until Bombay declared they would talk him mad if
it lasted much longer. I told Bombay to take two
cloths, one for each chief, and, if they did not consider
it enough, then I should fight. The present was taken,
and the negotiations were terminated at midnight.
November 2nd, — Ihata Island, one and a half hour west
of Kiala's. We arrived before the Island of Ihata, on
the left bank of the Malagarazi, at 5 p.m. ; the morning
having been wasted in puerile talk with the owner of
the canoes at the ferry. The final demand for ferriage
across was eight yards of cloth and four fiuido* of
sami-sami, or red beads ; which was at once paid.
Four men, with their loads, were permitted to cross in
the small, unshapely, and cranky canoes. When the
boatmen had discharged their canoes of their passengers
and cargoes, they were ordered to halt on the other
side, and, to my astonishm'ent, another demand was
• 4 fumlo = AO ncikhiccs; i fundo bciug 10 necklaces.
It
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UIIIIA, TO UJIJI. 383
made. The ferrymen had found that two fundo of these
were of short measure, and two fundo more must be
paid, otherwise the contract for ferrying us across would
be considered' null and void. So two fundo more -svere
added, but not without demur and " talk," which in
these lands are necessary.
Three times the canoes went backwards and forwards,
when, lo ! another demand was made, with the usual
clamor and fierce wordy dispute ; this time for five
khete* for the man who guided us to the ferry, a
shukka-of cloth for a babbler, who had attached him-
self to the old-womanish Jumah, who did nothing but
babble and increase the clamor. These demands were
also settled.
About sunset we endeavoured to cross the donkeys,
" Siraba," a fine wild Kinyamwezi donkey, went in
first, with a rope attached to his neck. He had arrived
at the middle of the stream when we saw him begin to
struggle — a crocodile had seized him by the throat.
The poor animal's struggles were terrific. Chowpereh
was dragging on the rope with all his might, but to no
use, for the donkey sank, and we saw no more of him.
The depth of the river at this place was about fifteen
■feet. "We had seen the light-brown heads, the glitter-
ing eyes, and the ridgy backs, hovering about the
vicinity, but we had never thought that the beasts would
advance so near such an exciting scene as the vicinity
of the ferry presented during the crossing. Saddened
a Httle by this loss, we resumed our work, and by 7 p.m.
we were all across, excepting Bombay and the only
donkey now left, which was to be brought across in the
morning, when the crocodiles should have deserted the
river.
* Necklaces.
884
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
November 3?'c?. — What contention have we not been a
witness to these last three days ! What anxiety have
we not suffered ever since our arrival in Uvinza ! The
Wavinza are worse than the Wagogo, and their greed is
more insatiable. We got the donkey across with the
aid of a mganga, or medicine man, who spat some
chewed leaves of a tree which grows close to the stream
over him. He informed me he could cross the river
at any time, day or night, after rubbing his body with
these chewed leaves, which he believed to be a most
potent medicine.
About 10 A.M. appeared from the direction of Ujiji
a caravan of eighty Waguhha, a tribe which occupies a
tract of country on the south-western side of tlie Lake
Tangauika. We asked the news, and were told a
white man had just arrived at Ujiji from Manynema,
This news startled us all.
" A white man ? " we asked.
" Yes, a white man," they replied.
*' How is he dressed ?"
" Like the master," they answered, referring to me.
" Is he young, or old ?"
" He is old. He has white hair on his face, and
is sick."
" Where has he come from ?"
" From a very far country away beyond Uguhha,
called Manyuema."
" Indeed ! and is he stopping at Ujiji now ?"
" Yes, we saw him about eight days ago."
" Do you think he will stop there until we see
him ?"
" Sigue " (don't know).
" Was he ever at Ujiji before ?"
" Yes, he went away a long time ago."
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDl, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 385
Hurrah ! This is Livingstone ! He must be
Livingstone ! He can be no other ; but still ; — he
may be some one else — some one from the West Coast
— or perhaps he is Baker ! No ; Baker has no white
hair on his face. But we must now march quick, lest
he hears we are coming, and runs away.
I addressed my men, and asked them if they were
willing to march to Ujiji without a single halt, and
then promised them, if they acceded to my wishes, two
doti each man. , All answered in the affirmative, almost
as much rejoiced as I was myself. But I was madly
rejoiced ; intensely eager to resolve the burning ques-
tion, " Is it Dr, David Livingstone ?" Grod grant me
patience, but I do wish there was a railroad, or, at least,
horses in this country. With a horse I could reach
Ujiji in about twelve hours.
We set out at once from the banks of the Malagarazi,
accompanied by two guides furnished us by Usenge,
the old man of the ferry, who, now that we had crossed,
showed himself more amiably disposed to us. We
arrived at the village of Isinga, Sultan Katalambula,
after a little over an hour's march across a saline
plain, but which as we- advanced into the interior
became fertile and productive. We were warned after
camping that to-morrow's march would have to be
made with caution, as a band of Wavinza, under
Makumbi, a great chief of Nzogera's, were returning
from war, and it was the custom of Makumbi to leave
nothing behind him after a victory. Intoxicated with »
success, he attacked even the villages of his own tribe,
cai)turing the live stock — slaves and cattle. The result
of a month's campaign against Lokanda-^Iira was the
destruction of two villages, the killing of one of the
children of that chief, and the slaughter of several men ;
2 0
336
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
MakumLi also lost five men from thirst duriner the
crossing of a saline desert south of the Malagarazi.
November 4th. — Started early with great caution,
maintaining deep silence. The guides were sent for-
ward, one two hundred yards ahead of the other, that
we might be warned in time. The first part of the
march was through a thin jungle of dwarf trees, which
got thinner and thinner until finally it vanished alto-
gether, and we had entered Uhha — a plain country.
Tillages were visible by the score among the tall
bleached stalks of dourra and maize. Sometimes three,
sometimes five, ten, or twenty beehive-shaped huts
formed a village. The Wahha were evidently living in
perfect security, for not one village amongst them all
was surrounded with the customary defence of an
African village. A narrow dry ditch formed the
only boundary between Uhha and Uvinza. On
entering Uhha, all danger from Makumbi vanished.
We halted at Kawanga, the chief of which lost no
time in making us understand that he was the great
Mutware of Kimenyi under the king, and that he was
the tribute gatherer for his Kiha majesty. He declared
that he was the only one in Kimenyi — an eastern divi-
sion of Uhha — who could demand tribute ; and that it
would be very satisfactory to him, and a saving of
trouble to ourselves, if we" settled his claim of twelve
doti of good cloths at once. TVe did not think it the
best way of proceeding, knowing as we did the
character of the native African ; so we at once pro-
ceeded to diminish this demand ; but, after six hours'
hot argument, the Mutware only reduced it by two.
This claim was then settled, upon the understanding
that we should be allowed to travel through Uhha as
far as the Rusugi Eiver without being further muUjtcd.
Nov. 1871.] UEAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UREA, TO UJIJl. 387
November 5th. — Leaving Kawaiiga early in the morn-
ing, and continuing our marcli over the houndless plains,
vrhich were bleached white by the hot equatorial sun,
we were marching westward full of pleasant anti-
cipations that we were nearing the end of our troubles,
joyfully congratulating ourselves that within five days
we should see that which I had come so far from
civilisation, and through so many difBculties, to see, and
were about passing a cluster of villages, with all the
confidence which men possess against whom no one
had further claim or a word to say, when I noticed ■
two men darting from a group of natives who were
watching us, and running to.wards the head of the
Expedition, with the object, evidently, of preventing
further progress.
The caravan stopped, and I walked forward to
ascertain the cause from the two natives. I was
greeted politely by the two "Wahha with the usual
" Yambos," and was then asked,
" Why does the white man pass by the village of
the King of Uhha without salutation and a gift ?
Does not the white man know there lives a kine: in
Uhha, to whom the Wangwana and Arabs pay some-
thing for right of passage ?"
" Why, we paid last night to the chief of Kawanga,
who informed us that he was the man deputed by the
King of Uhha to collect the toll."
" How much did you pay ?"
"Ten doti of good cloth."
" Arc you sure ?"
" Quite sure. If you ask him, he will tell you so."
" AVell," said one of the Wahha, a fine, handsome,
intelligent-looking youth, "it is our duty to the King
to l^lt you here until we find out the truth of this.
388
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Will you walk to our village, and rest yourselves
under the shade of our trees until we can send mes-
sengers to Kawanga ?"
" No ; the sun is but an hour high, and we have far
to travel ; but, in order to show you we do not seek to
pass through your country without doing that which is
right, we will rest where we now stand, and we will
send with your messengers two of our soldiers, who
will show you the man to whom we paid tlie cloth."
The messengers departed ; but, in the meantime, the
handsome youth, who turned out to be the nephew of
the King, w^hispered some order to a lad, who imme-
diately hastened away, wjth the speed of an antelope, to
the cluster of villages which we had just passed. The
result of this errand, as we saw in a short time, was the
approach of a body of warriors, about fifty in number,
headed by a tall, fine-looking man, who was dressed in
a crimson robe called Joho, two ends of which were
tied in a knot over the left shoulder ; a new piece of
American sheeting was folded like a turban around his
head, and a large curved piece of polished ivory was
suspended to his neck. He and his people were all
armed with, spears, and bows and arrows, and their
advance was marked with a deliberation that showed
they felt perfect confidence in any issue that might
transpire.
We were halted on the eastern side of the Pombwe
stream, near the village of Lukomo, in Kimenyi, Uhha.
The gorgeously-dressed chief was a remarkable man
in appearance. His face was oval in form, high cheek-
bones, eyes deeply sunk, a prominent and bold fore-
head, a fine nose, and a well-cut mouth ; he was tall in
figure, and perfectly symmetrioal.
When near to us, he hailed me with the words,
Nov. 1871.] UEAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHEA, TO UJIJI. 389
" Yambo, bana ? — How do you do, master ?" in quite
a cordial tone.
I replied cordially also, " Yambo, mutware ? — How-
do you do, chief?" ■
We, myself aud men, interchanged " Yambos" with
his warriors ; and there was nothing in our first intro-
duction to indicate that the meeting was of a hostile
character.
The cliief seated himself, his haunches resting on his
heels, lad ing down his bow and arrows by his side ;
his men did likewise.
1 seated myself on a bale, and each of my men sat
down on their loads, forming quite a semicircle. The
Wahha slightly outnumbered my party ; but, while
they were only armed with bows and arrows, spears,
and knob-sticks, we were armed with rifles, muskets,
revolvers, pistols, and hatchets.
All were seated, and deep silence was maintained by
the assembly. The great plains around us were as
still in this bright noon as if they were deserted of
all living creatures. Then tlie chief spoke :
" I am Mionvu, the great Mutware of Kimenyi, and
am next to the King, who lives yonder," pointing to a
large village near some nalted hills about ten miles to
the north. "I have come to talk with the white man.
It has always been the custom of the Aiabs and the
Wangwana to make a present to the King when they
pass through his country. Does not the white man
mean to pay the King's dues? Why does the white
man halt in the road ? Why will he not enter the
village of Lukomo, where there is food and slmde —
where we can discuss this thing quietly ? Does the
white man mean to fight ? I know well he is stronger
than we are. His men have guns, and the Wahlia
390
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
have but bows and arrows, and spears ; but Uhba is
large, and our villages are many. Let him look about
bim everywhere — all is Uhha, and our country extends
much further than he can see or walk in a day. The
King of Uhha is strong ; yet he wishes friendship only
with the white man. Will the white man have war or
peace ?"
A deep murmur of assent followed this speech of
Mionvu from his people, and disapprobation, blended
with a certain uneasiness, from my men. When about
replying, the words of General Sherman, which I
heard him utter to the chiefs of the Arapahoes and
Cheyennes at North Platte, in 1867, came to my mind ;
and somethmg of" their spirit I embodied in my reply
to Mionvu, Mutware of Kimenyi.
" Mionvu, the great Mutware, asks me if I have
come for war. When did Mionvu ever hear of white
men warring against black men ? Mionvu must under-
stand that the white men are different from the black.
White men do not leave their country to fight the
black people, neither do they come here to buy ivory
or slaves. They come to make friends with black
peojile ; they come to search for rivers, and lakes, and
mountains ; they come to discover what countries, what
peoples, what rivers, what lakes, what forests, what
plains, what mountains and hills are in your country ;
to know the different animals that are in the land of
the black people, that, when they go back, they
may tell the white kings, and men, and children,
what they have seen and heard in the land so far
from them. The white people are different from the
Arabs and Wangwana ; the white people know every-
thing, and are very strong. , When they fight, the
Arabs and the Wangwana run away. We have gn^at
Kov. 1871.] UKA WENDI, U7INZA, AND UHEA, TO UJIJI. 391
guns which thunder, and when they shoot the earth
trembles ; we have guns which carry bullets further than
you can see : even with these little things " (pointing
to my revolvers) " I could kill ten men quicker than
you could count. "We are stronger than the Wahha.
Mionvu has not spoken the truth, yet we do not wish
to fight, I could kill Mionvu now, yet I talk to him
as to a friend. I wish to be a friend to Mionvu, and
to all black people. "Will Mionvu say what I can
do for him ?"
-As these words were translated to him — imperfectly,
I suppose, but still, intelligibly — the faces of the Wahha
showed how well they appreciated them. Once or
twice I thought I detected something ^ke fear, but my
assertions that I desired peace and friendship with
them soon obliterated all such feelings.
Mionvu replied :
, " The white nian tells me he is friendly. Why does
he not come to our village ? Why does he stop on the
road? Tbe sun is hot. Mionvu will not speak here
any more. If the white man is a friend he will come
■ to the village."
" "We must stop now. It is noon. You have broken
our march. "We will go and camp in your village," I
said, at the same time rising and pointing to the men
to take up their loads.
"We were compelled to camp ; there was no help for
it ; the messengers had not returned from Kawanga.
Having arrived in his village, Mionvu had cast himself
at full length under the scanty shade afforded by a few ,
trees within the boma. About 2 p.m. the messenfrers
returned, saying it was true the chief of Kawanga
had taken ten cloths ; not, however for the King of
Uhha, but for himself I
392
SOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Mionvu, who evidently was keen-witted, and knew
perfectly what he was about, now roused himself, and
began to make miniature faggots of thin canes, ten in
each faggot, and shortly he presented ten of these small
bundles, which together contained one hundred, to me,
saying each stick represented a cloth, and the amount
of the " honga " required by the King of Uhha was
ONE HUNDRED CLOTHS ! — nearly two bales !
' Recovering from our astonishment, which was almost
indescribable, we offered ten.
" Ten ! to the King of Uhha ! Impossible. You do
not stir from Lukomo until you pay us one hundred !"
exclaimed Mionvu, in. a significant manner.
I returned no answer, but went to my hut, which
Mionvu had cleared for my use, and Bombay, Asmani,
Mabruki, and Chowpereh were invited to come to me
for consultation. Upon my asking them if we could
not fight our way through Uhha, they became terror-
stricken, and Bombay, in imploring accents, asked me
to think well what I was about to do, because it was
useless to enter on a war with the Wahha. " Uhha is
all a plain country ; we cannot hide anywhere. Every
village will rise all about us, and how can forty-five
men fight thousands of people ? They would kill us all
in a few minutes, and how would you ever reach Ujiji
if you died ? Think of it, my dear master, and do not
throw your life away for a few rags of cloth."
" Well, but, Bombay, this is robbery. Shall we submit
to be robbed ? Shall we give this fellow everything"
he asks ? He might as well ask me for all the cloth,
and all my guns, without letting him see that we can
fight. I can kill Mionvu and his principal men myself,
and you can slay all those howlers out there without
much trouble. If Mionvu and his principal were dead,
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AJSID UHHA, TO UJJJI. 3'J3
we should not be troubled much, and we could strike
south to the Malagarazi, and go west to Ujiji."
" No, no, dear master, don't think of it for a moment.
If we went near the Malagarazi we should come across
Lokanda-Mira."
Well, then, we will go north."
" Up that way Uhha extends far ; and beyond Uhha
are the Watuta."
" Well, tlien, say what we shall do. AVe must do
something ; but we must not be robbed."
" Pay Mionvu what he asks, and let us go away from
here. This is the last place we shall have to pay. And
in four days we shall be in Ujiji.."
" Did Mionvu tell you that this i^ the last time we
would have to pay ?"
» He did, indeed."
"What do you say, Asmani? Shall we fight or
?>>
Asmani's face wore the usual smile, but he replied^
" I am afraid we must pay. This is positively the last
time."
" And you, Chowpereh ?"
" Pay, bana ; it is better to get along quietly in this
country. If we were strong enough they would pay
us. All, if we had only two hundred guns, how these
Wahha would run !"
" What do you say, Mabruki ?"
" Ah, master, dear master ; it is very hard, and
these people are great robbers. I would like to chop
their heads off, all ; so I would. But you had better
pay. This is the last time ; and what are one hundred
cloths to you ?"
" Well, then, Bombay and Asmani, go to Alionvu,
and offer him twenty. If he will not take twenty,
394
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
give him thirty. If he refuses thirty, give him forty ;
then go up to eighty, slowly. Make plenty of talk ;
not one doti more. I swear to you I will shoot Mionvu
if he demands mgre than eighty. Go, and remember
to be wise !"
I will cut the matter short. At 9 p.m. sixty-four doti
were handed over to Mionvu, for the King of Uhha ; six
doti for himself, and five doti for his sub ; altogether
seventy-five doti — a bale and a quarter ! No sooner
had we paid than they began to fight amongst them-
selves over the booty, and I was in hopes that the
factions would proceed to battle, that I might have
good excuse for leaving them, and plunging south to
the jungle that I believed existed there, by which
means, under its friendly cover, we might strike west.
But no, it was only a verbose war, which portended
nothing more than a noisy clamor.
November Qth. — At dawn we were on the road, very
silent and sad. Our stock of cloth was much diminished ;
we had nine bales left, sufficient to have taken us to the
Atlantic Ocean — aided by the beads, which were yet
untouched — if we practised economy. If I met many
more like Mionvu I had not enough to take me
to Ujiji, and, though -we were said to be so near,
Livingstone seemed to me just as far as ever.
We crossed the Pombwe, and then struck across a
slowly-undulating plain rising gradually to mountains
on our right, and on onx left sinking towards the valley
of the Malagarazi, which river was about twenty m,iles
away. Yillages rose to our view everywhere. Food
was cheap, milk was plentiful, and the butter good.
After a four hours' march, we crossed the Kanengi
River, and entered the boma of Kahiiigi, inhabited
by several Watusi and Wahha. Here, we were told,
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UEEA, TO UJIJI. 395
lived the King of Uhha's brother. This announcement
was anything but welcome, and I began to suspect I
had fallen into another hornet's nest. "We had not
rested two hours before two "Wangwana entered my
tent, who were slaves of Thani bin Abdullah, our
dandified friend of TJnyanyembe. These men came, on
the part of the, king's brother, to claim the Hong a !
The king's brother demanded thirty doti ! Half "a bale !
If I only dared publish all the wild, furious thoughts
that raged in my mind when this was announced I
should be shocked myself at some future calm moment,
I dare say. But I was angry. Angry ! angrj- is not
the word. I was savage — rendered desperately savage !
Able, ready, and willing to fight and die, but not to be
halted by a set of miserable naked robbers ! Within
sight of Ujiji, one may almost say — but four days
march from this white man whom I take to be Living-
stone, unless there is a duplicate of him travelling
abouf in these countries. Merciful Providence ! What
shall I do ?
We had been told by Mionvu that the honga of
TJhha was settled — and now here is another demand
from the King's brother ! It is the second time the lie
has been told, and we have twice been deceived. We
shall be deceived no more.
These two men informed us there were five more
chiefs, living but twu hours from each other, who would
exact tribute, or black-mail, like those we had seen.
Knowing this much, I felt a certain calm. It was far
better to know the worst at once. Five more chiefs
with their demands would assuredly ruin us. In view
of which, what is to be done ? How am I to reach
Livingstone' without being beggared ?
Dismissing the men, I called Bombay, and told him
396
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to assist Asmani in settling the honga — " as cheaply
as possible." I then lit my pipe, put on the cap of
consideration, and began to think. Within half an hour,
I had made a plan, which was to be attempted to be put
in execution that very night.
I summoned the two slaves of Thani bin Abdullah,
after the honga had been settled to everybody's satis-
faction— though the profoundest casuistries and diplo-
matic arguments failed to reduce it lower than twenty-
six doti — and began asking them about the possibility
of evading the tribute-taking Wahha ahead.
This rather astonished them at first, and they declared
it to be impossible ; but, finally, after being pressed,
they replied, that one of their number should guide us
at midnight, or a little after, into the jungle which
grew on the frontiers of Uhha and Uvinza. By
keeping a direct west course through this jungle until
we came to Ukaranga we might be enabled — we were
told — to travel through Uhha without further trolible.
If I were willing to pay the guide twelve doti, and if I
were able to imj^ose silence on my people while passing
through the sleeping village, the guide was positive I
could reach Ujiji without paying another doti. It is
needless to add, that I accepted the proffered assistance
at such a price with joy.
But there was much to be done. Provisions were to
be purchased, sufiScient to last four days, for the tramp
through the jungle, and men were at once sent with *
cloth to purchase grain at any price. Fortune favoured
us, for before 8 p.m. we had enough for six days.
November 7t/i. — I did not go to sleep at all last
night, but a little after midnight, as the moon was
beginning to show itself, by gangs of four, the men
stole quietly out of the village ; and by 3 a.m. the entire
Nov. 1871.] UKAWEKDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 397
Expedition was outside the boma, and not the sh'ghtest
alarm liad been made. After whistling to the new-
guide, the Expedition began to move in a southern
direction along the right bank of the Kanengi River.
After an hour's march in this direction, we struck
west, across the grassy plain, and maintained it, despite
the obstacles we encountered, which were sore enough
to naked men. The bright moon lighted our path :
dark clouds now and then cast immense long shadows
over the deserted and silent plains, and the moonbeams
were almost obscured, and at such times our position
seemed awful —
" Tni the moon,
Rising in clouded majesty, at length,
Apparent qneen, unveiled her peerless light,
And o'er the dark her silver mantle thi-ew."
Bravely toiled the men, without murmur, though their
legs were bleeding from the cruel grass. " Ambrosial
morn " at last appeared, with all its beautiful and lovely
features. Heaven was born anew to us, with com-
forting omens and cheery promise. The men, though
fatigued at the unusual travel, sped forward with quicker
pace as daylight broke, until, at 8 a.m., we sighted the
swift Rusugi River, when a halt was ordered in a
clump of jungle near it, for breakfast and rest. Both
banks of the river were alive with buffalo, eland, and
antelope, but, though the sight was very tempting, we
did not fire, because we dared not. The report of a gun
would have alarmed the whole country. I preferred
my coffee, and the contentment which my mind expe-
rienced at our success.
An hour after we had rested, some natives, carrying
salt from the Malagarazi, were seen coming up the right
bank of the river. When abreast of our hiding-place
398
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
they detected us, and dropping their salt-bags, they
took to their heels at once, shouting out as they ran, to
alarm some villages that appeared about four miles
north of us. The men were immediately ordered to
iake up their loads, and in a few minutes we had crossed
the Rusugi, and were making direct for a bamboo
jungle that appeared in our front. Almost as soon as
we entered, a weak-brained woman raised a series of
piercing yells. The men were appalled at this noisy
demonstration, which would call down upon our heads
the vengeance of the Wahha for evading the tribute, to
which they thought themselves entitled. In half an
hour we should have hundreds of howling savages
about us in the jungle, and probably a general mas-
sacre would ensue. The woman screamed fearfully,
again and again, for no cause whatever. Some of the
men, with the instinct of self-preservation, at once
dropped their bales and loads, and vanished into the
jungle. The guide came rushing back to me, imploring
me to stop her noise. The woman's husband, livid with
rage and fear, drew his sword, and asked my permission
to cut her head off at once. Had I given the least
signal, the woman had paid with her life for her foUy.
I attempted to hush her cries by putting my hand over
her mouth, but she violently wrestled with me, and
continued her cries worse than ever. There remained
nothing else for me to do but try the virtue of my whip
over her shoulders. I asked her to desist after the first
blow. " No !" She continued her insane cries with in-
creased force and volume. Again my whip descended
on her shoulders. " No, no, no !" Another blow, " Will
you hush ?" " No, no, no !" louder and louder she cried,
and faster and faster 1 showered the blows for the
taming of this shrew. However, seeing I was as
Nov, 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UIIHA, TO UJIJT. 399
determined to flog as she was to ciy, she desisted before
the tenth blow, and became silent. A cloth was folded
over her mouth, and her arms were tied behind her ;
and in a few moments, the runaways having returned
to their duty, the Expedition moved forward again with
redoubled pace. On, on, we kept steadily until, at 1 p.m.,
we sighted the little lake of Musunya, as wearied as
possible with our nine hours' march.
Lake Musunya is one of the many circular basins
found in this part of Uhha. There was quite a group
of them. The more correct term for these lakes would
be immense pools. In the Masika season. Lake Mu-
sunya must extend to three or four miles in length by
two in breadth. It swarms with hippopotami, and its
shores abound with noble game.
We were very quiet, as may be imagined, in our
bivouac ; neither tent nor hut was raised, nor was fire
kindled, so that, in case of pursuit, we could move off
without delay. I kept my Winchester rifle (the gift of
my friend Mr. Morris, and a rare gift it was for such a
crisis) with its magazine full, and two hundred car-
tridges in a bag slung over my shoulders. Each
soldier's gun was also ready and loaded, and we retired
to sleep our fatigues olF with a feeling of perfect
security.
November Sth. — Long before dawn appeared, we were
on the march, and, as daylight broke, we emerged from
the bamboo jungle, and struck across the naked plain
of Uhha, once more passing several large pools by the
way — far-embracing prospects of undulating country,
with here and there a characteristic clump of trees
relieving the general nudity of the whole. Hour after
hour we toiled on, across the rolling land waves, the
sun shining with all his wonted African fervor, but
400
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
witli its heat slightly tempered by the welcome breezes,
which came laden witli the fragrance of young grass,
and perfume of strange flowers of various hues, that
flecked the otherwise pale-green sheet which extended
<50 far around us.
We arrived at the Rugufu River — not the Ukawendi
Rugufu, but the northern stream of that name, a tri-
butary of the Malagarazi. It was a broad shallow
stream, and sluggish, with an almost imperceptible
flow south-west. While we halted in the deep shade
afibrded by a dense clump of jungle, close to the right
bank, resting awhile before continuing our journey, I
distinctly heard a sound as of distant thunder in the
Avest. Upon asking if it were thunder, I was told it was
Kabogo.
" Kabogo ? what is that ?"
" It is a great mountain on the other side of the
Tanganika, full of deep holes, into which the water
rolls ; and when there is wind on the Tanganika, there
is a sound like mvuha (thunder). Many boats have
been lost there, and it is a custom with Arabs and
natives to throw cloth — ]\Ierikani and Kaniki — and
especially white (Merikani) beads, to appease the
mulungu (god) of tlie lake. Those w^lio throw beads
generally get past without trouble, but those who do
not throw beads into the lake get lost, and are drowned.
Oh, it is a dreadful place !" This story was told me by
the ever-smiling guide Asmani, and was corroborated
by other former mariners of the lake whom I had
with me. . .
At the least, this place where we halted for dinner,
on the banks of the Rugufu River, is eighteen and
a half hours, or forty-six miles, from Ujiji ; and, as
Kabogo is said to be near Uguhha, it must be over
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UEHA, TO UJIJI. 401
sixty miles from Ujiji ; therefore the sound of the thun-
dering surf, which is said to roll into the caves of
Kabogo, was heard by us at a distance of over one
hundred miles away from them.
Continuing our journey for three hours longer,
through thin forests, over extensive beds of primitive
rock, among fields of large boulders thickly strewn
about, passing by numerous herds of buffalo, giraffe, and
zebra, over a quaking quagmire which resembled peat,
we arrived at the small stream of Sunuzzi, to a camp-
ing place only a mile removed from a large settlement
of Wahha. But we were buried in the depths of a
great forest — no road was in the vicinity, no noise was
made, deep silence was preserved ; nor were fires lit.
We might therefore rest tranquilly secure, certain that
we should not be disturbed. To-morrow morning the
kirangozi has promised we shall be out of Uhha, and if
we travel on to Niamtaga, in Ukaranga, the same day,
the next day would see us in Ujiji. Patience, my soul !
A few hours more, then the end of all this will be
known ! I shall be face to face with that white man
with the white hairs on his face, whoever he is !
November Wi. — Two hours before dawn we left our
camp on the Sunuzzi River, and struck through the
forest in a north-by-west direction, having muzzled our
goats previously, lest, by their bleating, they might
betray us. This was a mistake which might have
ended tragically, for just as the eastern sky began to
assume a pale greyish tint, we emerged from the jungle
on the high road. Tlie guide thought we had passed
Uhha, and set up a shout which was echoed by every
member of the caravan, and marched onward with new
vigor and increased energy, when plump ue came
to the outskirts of a village, the inhabitants of which
2 D
402
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
were beginning to stir. Silence was called for at oi^ce,
and the Expedition halted immediately. I walked
forward to the front to advise with the guide. He did
not knt)\v what to do. There was no time to consider,
so I ordered the goats to be slaughtered and left on the
road, and the guide to push on boldly through the
village. The chickens also had their throats cut ; after
which the Expedition resumed the march quickly and
silently, led by the guide, who had orders to plunge
into the jungle south of the road. 1 staid until the
last man had disappeared ; then, after preparing my
"Winchester, brought up the rear, followed by my gun-
bearers with their stock of ammunition. As we were
about disappearing beyond the last hut, a man darted
out of his hut, and uttered an exclamation of alarm, and
loud .voices were heard as if in dispute. But in a short
time we were in the depths of the jungle, hurrying
away from the road in a southern direction, and edging
slightly westward. Once I thought we were pursued,
and I halted behind a tree to check our foes if they
persisted in following us ; but a few minutes proved to
me that we were not pursued. • After half-an-hour's
march we again turned our faces westward. It was
broad daylight now, and our eyes were delighted with
most picturesque and sequestered little valleys, where
wild fruit-trees grew, and rare flowers blossomed, and
tiny brooks tumbled over polished pebbles — where all
was bright and beautiful — until, finally, wading through
one pretty pure streamlet, whose soft murmurs we took
for a gentle welcome, we passed the boundary of
wicked Uhha, and had entered TJkaranga ! — an event
that was hailed with extravagant shouts of joy.
Presently we fpund the smooth road, and we trod gaily
with elastic steps, with limbs quickened for the march
Xov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 403
which we all knew to be drawing near its end. What
careS we now for the difficulties we had encountered —
for the rough and cruel forests, for the thorny thickets
and hurtful grass, for the jangle of all savagedom, of
which we had been the joyless audience ! To-morrow !
Ay, the great day draws nigh, and we may well
laugh and sing while in this triumphant mood. "We
have been sorely tried ; we have been angry with each
other when vexed by troubles, but we forget all these
now, and there is no face but is radiant with the
happiness we have all deserved.
We made a short halt at noon, for rest and refresh-
ment. I was shown the hills from which the Tanganika
could be seen, which bounded the valley of the Liuche
on the east. I could not contain myself at the sight of
them. Even with this short halt I was restless and
unsatisfied. We resumed the march again. I spurred
my men forward with the promise that to-morrow
should see their reward. Fish and beer should be
given them, as much as they could eat and drink.
We were in sight of the villages of the Wak^ranga ;
the people caught sight of us, and manifested consider-
able excitement. I sent men ahead to reassure them,
and they came forward to greet us. This was so new
and welcome to us, so different from the turbulent
Waviuza and the black-mailers of Uhha, that we were
melted. But we had no time to loiter by the way to
indulge our joy. I was impelled onward by my almost
uncontrollable feelings. I wished to resolve my doubts
and fears. V/as he still there ? Had he heard of my
coming ? Would he fly ?
How beautiful Ukaranga appears ! The green hills are
crowned by clusters of straw-thatched cones. The hills
rise and fall ; here denuded and cultivated, there in
404
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
pasturage, here timbered, yonder swarming with huts.
The country has somewhat the aspect of Maryland.
We cross the Mkuti, a glorious little river! We
ascend the opposite bank, and stride through the forest
like men who have done a deed of which they may be
proud. We have already travelled nine hours, and the
sun is sinking rapidly towards the west ; yet, appa-
rently, we are not fatigued.
We reach the outskirts of Niamtaga, and we hear
drums beat. The people are flying into the woods ;
they desert their villages, for they take us to be Ruga-
!^luga — the forest thieves of Mirambo, who, after con-
quering the Arabs of Unyanyembe, are coming to
fight the Arabs of Ujiji. Even the King flies from his
village, and every man, woman, and child, terror-
stricken, follows him. We enter into it and quietly
take possession, and my tent is set. Finally, the word
is bruited about that we are Wangwana, from Unyan-
yembe.
" Well, then, is Mirambo dead ?" they ask.
" No," we answer.
" Well, how did you come to Ukaranga ?"
" By way of Ukonongo, Ukaweridi, and Uhha."
"Oh — hi-le!" Then they laugh heartily at their
fright, and begin to make excuses. The King is intro-
duced to me, and he says he had only gone to the
woods in order to attack us again — he* meant to have
come back and killed us all, if we had been Euga-
Ruga. But then we know the poor King was terribly
frightened, and would never have dared to return, had
we been Ruga-Ruga — not he. We are not, however,
in a mood to quanel with him about an idiomatic
phrase peculiar to liiin, but rather take him by tlie
hand and shake it well, and say we are so very glad to
Nov. 1871.J UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHIIA, TO UJIJI. 406
see him. And he shares in our pleasure, and imme-
diately three of the fattest sheep, pots of beer, flour,
and honey are brought to us as a gift, and I make him
happier still with two of the finest cloths I have in
my bales ; and thus a friendly pact is entered into
between us.
While I write my diary of this day's proceedings, I
tell Selim to lay out my new flannel suit, to oil my
boots, to chalk my helmet, and fold a new puggaree
around it, that I may make as presentable an appear-
ance as possible before the white man with the grey
beard, and before the Arabs of TJjiji ; for the clothes I
have worn through jungle and forest are in tatters.
Good-night ; only let one day come again, and we shall
see what we shall see.
November Friday. — The 236th day from Baga-
moyo, and the 51st day from Unyanyembe. General
direction to Ujiji, west- by-south. Time of march, sire
hours.
It is a happy, glorious morning. The air is fresh
and cool. The sky lovingly smiles on the earth and
her children. The deep woods are crowned in bright
green leafage ; the water of the Mkuti, rushing under
the emerald shade afforded by the bearded banks, seems
to challenge us for the race to Ujiji, with its continuous
brawl.
"We are all outside the village cane fence, every man
of us looking as spruce, as neat, and happy as when we
embarked on the dhows at Zanzibar, which seems to us
to have been ages ago — we have witnessed and ex-
perienced so much.
" Forward !"
" Ay Wallali, ay Wallah, bana yango !" and the light-
hearted braves stride away at a rate wliicli must soon
406
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
bring us 'wdtliin view of Ujiji. We ascend a hill over-
grown with bamboo, descend into a ravine through
which dashes an impetuous little torrent, ascend
another short hill, then, along a smooth footpath
running across the slope of a long ridge, we push
on as only eager, light-hearted men can do.
In two hours I am warned to prepare for a view of
the Tanganika, for, from the top of a steep mountain
the kirangozi says I can see it. I almost vent the
feelings of my heart in cries. But wait, we must
behold it first. And we press forward and up the hill
breathlessly, lest the grand scene hasten away. We
are at last on the summit. Ah ! not yet can it be seen.
A little further on — just yonder, oh ! there it is — a
silvery gleam. I merely catch sight of it between the
trees, and — but here it is at last ! True — the Tanga-
nika ! and there are the blue-black mountains of
Ugoma and Ukaramba. An immense broad sheet, a
burnished bed of silver — lucid canopy of blue above —
lofty mountains are its valances, palm forests form its
fringes ! The Tanganika ! — Hurrah ! and the men
respond to the exultant cry of the Anglo-Saxon with
the lungs of Stentors, and the great forests and the
hills seem to share in our triumph.
" Was this the place where Burton and SpeKC stood,
Bombay, when they saw the lake first ?"
" I don't remember, master ; it was somewhere about
here, I think."
" Poor fellows ! The one was half-paralyzed, the
other half-blind," said Sir Eoderick Murchison, when
he described Burton and Speke's arrival in view of the
Tanganika.
And I ? Well, I am so happy that, were I quite
paralyzed and blinded, I think that at this supreme
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDl, UVINZA, AND UffEA, TO UJIJI. 407
moment I could take up my bed and walk, and
all blindness would cease at once. Fortunately, bow-
ever, I am quite well ; I bave not suffered a day's
sickness since tbe day I left Unyanyembe. How
much would Shaw be willing to give to be in my place
now ? Who is happiest — he, revelling in the luxuries
of Unyanyembe, or I, standing on the summit of this
mountain, looking down with glad eyes and proud heart
on the Tanganika ?
We are descending the western slope of the mountain,
with the valley of the Liuche before us. Something
like an hour before noon we have gained the thick
matete brake, which grows on both banks of the river ;
we wade through the clear stream, arrive on the other
side, emerge out of the brake, and the gardens of the
Wajiji are around us — a perfect marvel of vegetable
wealth. Details escape my hasty and partial obser-
vation. I am almost overpowered with my own emo-
tions. I notice the graceful palms, neat plots, green
with vegetable plants, and small villages surrounded
with frail fences of the matete-cane.
We push on rapidly, lest the news of our coming
might reach the people of Bunder Ujiji before wc come
in sight, and are ready for them. We halt at a little
brook, then ascend the long slope of a naked ridge, the
very last of the myriads we have crossed. This alone
prevents us from seeing the lake in all its vastness.
We arrive at the summit, travel across and arrive at its
western rim, and — pause, reader — the port of Ujiji is
below us, embowered in the palms, only five hundred
yards from us! At this grand moment we do not
think of the hundreds of miles we have marched, of the
hundreds of hills that we have ascended and descended,
of the many forests we have traversed, of the jungles and
408
EOW I FOUSD LIVINGSTONE.
thickets that annoyed us, of the fervid salt plains that
blistered our feet, of the hot suns that scorched us, nor
^^the dangers and difBculties, now happily surmounted.
^ At last the sublime hour has amved ! — our dreams, om-
hopes, and anticipations are now about to be realized !
Our hearts and our feehngs are with our eyes, as we
peer into the palms and try to make out in which hut
or house lives the white man with the grey beard we
heard about on the Malagarazi.
" Unfurl the flags, and load your guns !"
" Ay "SVallah, ay "Wallah, bana !" respond the men,
eao^erlv.
" One, two, three — fire !"
A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute
from a battery of artillery : we shall note its effect
presently on the peaceful-looking village below.
" Xow, kirahgozi, hold the white man's flag up
high, and let the Zanzibar flag bring up the rear.
And you men keep close together, and keep firing
until we halt in the market-place, or before the white
man's house. You have said to me often that you
could smell the fish of the Tanganika — I can smell the
fish of the Tanganika now. There are fish, and beer,
and a long rest waiting for you. March !"
Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated
volleys had the effect desired. "We had awakened Ujiji
to the knowledge that a caravan was coming, and the
people were witnessed rushing up in hundreds to meet
us. The mere sight of the flags informed every one
immediately that we were a caravan, but the American
flag borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was
one vast smile on this day, railier staggered them at
first. However, many of the people who now ap-
[iroached us remembered the flag. They bad seen it
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENBI, UVINZA, AND UEEA, TO UJIJI. 409
float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-
head of many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and
they were soon heard welcoming the beautiful flag with
cries of " Bindera Kisuno-u !" — a white man's flae: !
" Bindera Merikani !" — the American flag !
Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji,
Wanyamwezi, Wangwana, Warundi, Waguhha, Wa-
manyueraa and Arabs, and were almost deafened with
the shouts of " Yambo, yambo, bana ! Yambo, bana !
Yambo, bana !" To all and each of my men the
welcome was given.
"We were now about three hundred yards from the
village of TJjiji, and the crowds are dense about me.
Suddenly I hear a voice on my right say,
" Good morning, sir 1"
Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such
a crowd of black people, I turn sharply around in search
of the man, and see him at my side, with the blackest
of faces, but animated and joyous — a man dressed in a
long white shirt, with a turban of American sheeting
around his woolly head, and I ask :
" Who the mischief are you ?"
" I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone,"
said he, smiling, and showing a gleaming row of
teeth.
" What ! Is Dr. Livingstone here ?"
" Yes, sir."
« In this village ?"
" Yes, sir,"
" Are you sure ?"
" Sure, sure, sir. Why, I leave him just now."
"Good morning, sir,'' said another voice.
" Hallo," said I, " is this another one ?"
" Yes, sir."
410
EOW- 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
" Well, what is your name ?"
" My name is Chumali, sir."
" What ! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani ?"
" Yes, sir."
" And is the Doctor well ?"
" Not very well, sir."
" Where has he been so long ?"
" In Manyuema."
"Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am
coming."
" Yes, sir," and off he darted like a madman.
But by this time we were within two hundred yards
of the village, and the multitude was getting denser,
and almost preventing our march. Flags and streamers
were out ; Arabs and Wangwana were pushing their
way through the nati"\;es in order to greet us, for,
according to their accaunt, we belonged to them. But
the great wonder of all was, " How did you come from
Unyanyembe ?"
Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my
name ; he had told the Doctor that I was coming, but
the Doctor was too surprised to believe him, and, when
the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather
staggered.
But, during Susi's absence, the news had been con-
veyed to the Doctor that it was surely a white man
that was coming, whose guns were firing and whose
flag could be seen ; and the great Arab magnates of
TJjiji — Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin
Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others — had
gathered together before the Doctor's house, and the
Doctor had come out from his veranda to discuss the
matter and await my arrival.
In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had •
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHEA, TO UJIJI. 411
halted, and the kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding
his flag aloft, and Selim said to me, " I see the Doctor,
sir. Oh, what an old man ! He has got a white beard."
And I what would I not have given for a bit
of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my
joy in some mad freak, such as idiotically biting my
hand, turning a somersault, or slashing at trees, in
order to allay those exciting feelings that were well-
nigh uncontrollable. My heart beats fast, but I must
not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall
detract from the dignity of a white man appearing
under such extraordinary circumstances.
So I did that which I thought was most dignified. I
pushed back the crowds, and, passing from the rear,
walked down a living avenue of people, until I came in
front of the semicircle of Arabs, in the front of which
stood the white man with the grey beard. As I
advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale,
looked wearied, had a grey beard, wore a bluish cap
with a faded gold band round it, had on a red-sleeved
waistcoat, and a pair of grey tweed trousers. I would
have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence
of such a mob — would have embraced him, only, he
being an Englishman, I did not know how he would
receive me ;* so I did what cowardice and false pride
* " This Euglishmon, as I afterwards found, was a military man
returning to his country from India, and crossing tbo Desert at this
part in order to go through Palestine. As for me, I had come pretty
straight from England, and so here we met in tho wilderness at about
half-way from our respective starting-points. As wo approached
each other, it became with me a question whether we should speak; I
thought it likely that tho stranger would accost me, and in tho event
of his doing so, I was quite ready to be as sociable and chatty as I
could bo, according to my nature ; but still I could nut tbiuk of
anything particular that I had to say to him ; of course among
civilized people, tbe not having anything to say is no excuse at all
412
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
suggested was the best thing — walked deliberately to
him, took off my hat, and said :
" Dr. Livingstone, I presume ?"
" Yes," said he, with a kind smile, lifting his cap
slightly.
I replace my hat on my head, and he puts on his
cap, and we both grasp hands, and I then say aloud :
" I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see
you."
He answered, "I feel thankful that I am here to
welcome you."
I turn to the Arabs, take off my hat to them in
response to the saluting chorus of " Yambos " I receive,
and the Doctor introduces them to me by name. Then,
oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of the men who shared
with me my dangers, we — Livingstone and 1 — turn
our faces towards his tembe. He points to the veranda,
or, rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging
eaves ; he points to his own particular seat, wliich I see
his age and experience in Africa' has suggested, namely,
a straw mat, with a goatskin over it, and another skin
nailed against the wall to protect his back from contact
with the cold mud. I protest against taking this seat,
which so much more befits him than me, but the Doctor
will not yield : I must take it.
"We are seated — the Doctor and I — with our backs to
the wall. The Arabs take seats on our left. More than
a thousand natives are in our front, filling the whole
square densely, indulging their curiosity, and discussing
for not speaking, but I was shy, and indolent, and I felt no groat wish
to stop, and talk like a morning visitor, in the midst of those broad
solitudes. The traveller perhaps felt as I did, for except that we
lifted our hands to our caps, and waved our arms in courtesy, we passed
each other as if we had passed in Bond Street." — Kinglako's Edthen,
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AXD UEHA, TO UJIJL 413
the fact of two white men meeting at Ujiji — one just
come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from
Unyanyembe, in the east.
Conversation began. What about? I declare I
have forgotten. Oh ! we mutually asked questiops of
one another, such as :
" How did you come here ?" and " Where have you
been all this long time ? — the world has believed you to
be dead." Yes, that was. the way it began ; but what-
ever the Doctor informed me, and that which I commu-
nicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found
myself gazing at him, conning the wonderful man at
whose side I now sat in Central Africa. Every hair of his
head and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness
of his features, and the slightly wearied look he wore,
were all imparting intelligence to me — the knowledge I
craved for so much ever since I heard the words, " Take
what you want, but find Livingstone." What I saw
was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and un-
varnished truth. I was listening and reading at the
same time. What did these dumb witnesses relate to
me ?
Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in
Ujiji, how eloquently could be told the nature of this
man's work ! Had you been there but to see and hear !
His lips gave me the details ; Hps that never lie. I
cannot repeat what he said ; I was too much engrossed
to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his
story. He had so much to say that he began at the
end, seemingly oblivious of the fact that five or six
years had to be accounted for. But his account was
oozing out ; it was growing fast into grand proportions
— into a most marvellous history of deeds.
The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if
414 EOW I FO UND LI VINGSTONE.
they intuitively knew that we ought to be left to our-
selves. I sent Bombay with them, to give them the
news they also wanted so much to know about the
affairs at Unyanyembe. Sayd bin Majid was the father
of the gallant young man whom I saw at Masange, and
who fought with me at Zimbizo, and who soon after-
wards was killed by Mirambo's Ruga-Euga in the forest
of Wilyankuru ; and, knowing that I had been there,
he earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight ; but
they had all friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but
natural that they should be anxious to hear of what
concerned them.
After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the
provisioning of the men of the Expedition, I called
" Kaif-Halek," or " How-do-ye-do," and introduced
him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in
charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, w^hom I
had compelled to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might
deliver in person to his master the letter-bag he had
been entrusted with by Dr. Kirk. This was that
famous letter-bag marked "Nov. 1st, 1870," which was
now delivered into the Doctor's hands 365 days after it
left Zanzibar! How long, I wonder, had it remained
at Unyanyembe had I not been despatched into Central
Africa in search of the great traveller ?
The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then,
presently, opened it, looked at the letters contained
there, and read one or two of his children's letters, his
face in the meanwhile lighting up.
He asked me to toll him the news. " No, Doctor,"
said I, " read your letters first, which I am sure you
must be impatient to read."
" Ah," said he, " I have waited years for letters, and
I have been taught patience. I can surely afford to
Nov. 1871.] UKAWENDI, UVTNZA, AND UEHA, TO VJIJI. 415
wait a few hours longer. No, tell me the general
news : how is the world getting along ?"
" You probahlv know much already. Do you know
that the Suez Canal is a fact — is opened, and a regular
trade carried on between Europe and India through it ?"
"I did not hear about the opening of it. Well, that
is grand news ! "What else ?"
Shortly I found myself enacting the part of an
annual periodical to him. There was no need of exag-
geration— of any penny-a-line news, or of any sensa-
tionalism. The world had witnessed and experienced
much the last few years. The Pacific Railroad had
been completed ; Grant had been elected President
of the United States ; Egypt had been flooded with
savans ; the Cretan rebellion had terminated ; a
Spanish revolution had driven Isabella from the throne
of Spain, and a Regent had been appointed ; General
Prim was assassinated ; a Castelar had electrified Europe
with his advanced ideas upon the Jiberty of worship ;
Prussia had humbled Denmark, and annexed Schleswig-
Holstein, and her armies were now around Paris ; the
"Man of Destiny" was a prisoner at Wilhelmshohe ;
the Queen of Fashion and the Empress of the French
was a fugitive ; and the child born in the purple had
lost for ever the Imperial crown intended for his head ;
the Napoleon dynasty was extinguished by the Prus-
sians, Bismarck and Yon Moltke ; and France, the
proud empire, was humbled to the dust.
What could a man have exaggerated of these facts ?
What a budget of news it was to one wdio had emerged
from the depths of the primeval forests of Manyueraa !
The reflection of the dazzling light of civilization was
cast on him while Livingstone was thus listening in
wonder to one of the most exciting pages of history ever
416 ffOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
repeated. How the puny deeds of barbarism paled
before these ! Who could tell under what new phases
of uneasy life Europe was laboring even then, while
we, two of her lonely children, rehearsed the tale of
her late woes and glories? More worthily, perhaps,
had the tongue of a lyric Demodocus recounted them ;
but, in the absence of the poet, the newspaper corre-
spondent performed his part as well and truthfully
as he could.
Not long after the Arabs had departed, a dishful of .
hot haslied-meat cakes was sent to us by Sayd bin
Majid, and a curried chicken was received from Mo-
hammed bin Sali, and Moeni Kheri sent a dishful of
stewed goat-meat and rice ; and thus presents of food
came in succession, and as fast as they were brought we
set to. I had a healthy, stubborn digestion — the exer-
cise I had taken had put it in prime order ; but Living-
stone— he had been complaining that he had no appetite,
that his stomach reCased everything but a cup of tea
now and then — he ate also — ate like a vigorous, hungry
man ; and, as he vied with me in demolishing the pan-
cakes, he kept repeating, " You have brought me new
life. You have brought me new life."
" Oh, by George ! " I said, " I have forgotten some-
thing. Hasten, Selim, and bring that bottle ; you
know which ; and bring me the silver goblets. I
brought this bottle on purpose for this event, which
I hoped would come to pass, though often it seemed
useless to,expect it."
Selim knew where the bottle was, and he soon
returned with it — a bottle of Sillery champagne;
and, handing the Doctor a silver goblet brimful of
the exhilarating wine, and pouring a small quantity
into my own, I said,
Nov 1871.] UKAWEXDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 417
" Dr. Livingstone, to your very good health, sir."
" And to yours," he responded.
And the champagne I had treasured for this happy
meeting was drunk with hearty good wishes to each
other.
But we kept on talking and talking, and prepared
food was being brought to us all that afternoon ; and
we kept on eating every time it was brought, until
I had eaten even to repletion, and the Doctor was
•obliged to confess that he had eaten enough. Still,
Halimah, the female cook of the Doctor's establishment,
was in a state of the greatest excitement. She had
been protruding her head out of the cookhouse to make
sure that there were really two white men sitting down
in the veranda, when there used to be only one, who
would not, because he could not, eat anything ; and she
had been considerably exercised in her mind about this
fact. She was afraid the Doctor did not properly
appreciate her cuHnary abilities ; • but now she was
amazed at the extraordinary quantity of food eaten,
and slie was in a state of delightful excitement. We
could hear her tongue rolling off a tremendous volume
of clatter to the wondering crowds who halted before
the kitchen to hear the current of news with which
she edified them. Poor, faithful soul ! Wliile we
listened to the noise of her furious gossip, tlie Doctor
related her faithful services, and the terrible anxiety
she evinced when the guns first announced the arrival
of another white man in Ujiji ; how slie bad be<Mi
flying about in a state of the utmost excitement, from
the kitchen into his presence, and out again into the
square, asking all sorts of questions ; how she wna
in despair at the scantiness of the general larder and
treasury of the strange household ; how she was anxious
2 £
418
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to make up for tlieir poverty by a grand appearance —
to make up a sort of Barmecide feast to welcome
the white man. " Why," said she, " is he not one
of us ? Does he not bring jslenty of cloth and beads ?
Talk about tlie Arabs ! Who are they that they should
be compared to white men ? Arabs, indeed !"
The Doctor and I conversed upon many things,
especially upon his own immediate troubles, and his
disappointment, upon his arrival in Ujiji, when told
that all his goods had been sold, and he was*
reduced to poverty. He had but twenty cloths or
so left of the stock he had deposited with the man
called Sherif, the halt-caste drunken tailor, who was
sent by the British Consul in charge of the goods.
Besides which he had been suffering from an attack of
dysentery, and his condition was most deplorable.
He wan but little improved on this day, though he
had eaten well, and already began to feel stronger and
better.
This day, like all others, though big with happiness
to me, at last was fading away. We, sitting with our
faces looking to the east, as Livingstone had been
sitting for days preceding my arrival, noted the dark
shadows which crept up above the grove of palms
beyond the village, and above the rampart of moun-
tains which we had crossed that day, now looming
through the fast approaching darkness ; and we listened,
with our hearts full of gratitude to the great Giver
of Good and Dispenser of all Happiness, to the sonorous
thunder of the surf of the Tanganika, and to the
chorus which the night insects sang. Hours passed,
and we were still sitting there with our minds busy
upon the day's remarkable events, when I remembered
that the traveller had not yet read his letters.
1871.] UKAWENDI, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI. 419
" Doctor," I said, " you had better read your letters.
I will not keep you up any longer."
*' Yes," he answered, " it is getting late ; and I will
go and read my friends' letters. Good-night, and God
bless you."
" Good-night, my dear Doctor ; and let me hope that
your news will be such as you desire."
And now, dear reader, having related succinctly
" How I found Livingstone," I bid you also " Good-
night."
OUR HOUSE IN UJIJI.
CHAPTER XII.
INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI.
" If tliere is love between us, inconceivably delicious, and profit-
able will our intercourse be; if not, your time is lost, and you will
only auaoy me. I sball seem to you stupid, and the rci)utation I
Lave false. All my good is magnetic, and I educate not by lessons,
but by going about my business." — Emerson's Representative Men.
I WOKE up early next morning with a sudden stort.
The room was strange ! It was a house, and not my
tent ! Ah, yes ! I recollected I had discovered Living-
stone, and I was in his house. I listened, that the
knowledge dawning on me might be confirmed by the
sound of his voice. I heard nothing but the sullen
roar of the surf.
♦ • • •
I lay quietly in bed. Bed ! Yes, it was a primitive
four-poster, with the leaves of the palm-tree spread u]ion,
it instead of down, and horsehair and my bearskin
«
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOVBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 421
spread over tliis serving me in place of linen. I began
to put myself under a rigid mental cross-examination,
and to an aualysation of my position.
" What was I sent for ?"'
" To find Livingstone."
" Have you found him ?"
" Yes, of course ; am I not in his house ? Whose
compass is that hanging on a peg there ? Whose
clothes,- whose boots, are those ? Who reads those
newspapers, those ' Saturday Reviews ' and numbers of
' Punch ' lying on the floor ?"
" Well, what are you going to do now ?"
" I shall tell him this morning who sent me, and
what brought me here. I will then ask him to write a
letter to Mr. Bennett, and to give what news he can
spare. I did not come here to rob him of his news.
SufScient for me is it that I have found him. It is a
complete success so far. But it will be a greater one if
he gives me letters for Mr. Bennett, and an acknowledg-
ment that he has seen me."
" Do you think he will do so ?"'
Why not? I have com® here to do him a service.
He has no goods. I have. He has no men with him.
I have. If I do a friendly part by him, will he nut do
a friendly part by me ? What says the poet ? —
' Nor hope to find
A friend, but who has found a friend in thee.
All like the purchase ; fovr the price will pny :
And this makes friends such wonders here below.'
I have paid the purchase, by coming so far to do him a
service. But I think, from what I have seen of him last
night, that he is not such a niggard and misanthrope as
I was told he was by a man who said ho knew bin). He
422 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
exhibited considerable emotion, despite the monosyllabic
greeting, when he shook my hand. Neither did he run
away, as I was told he would ; though perhaps that
was because he had no time. Still, if he was a man
to feel annoyance at any person coming after him, he
would not have received me as he did, nor would he
ask me to live with him, but he would have surlily
refused to see me, and told me to mind my own business,
and he would mind his. Neither does he mind my
nationality ; for ' here,' said he, ' Americans and Eng-
lishmen are the same people. We speak the same
language and have the same ideas.' J ust so. Doctor ;
I agree with you. Here, at least, Americans and Eng-
lishmen shall be brothers, and whatever I can do for
you, you may command me as freely as if I were flesh
of your flesh, bone of your bone."
. I dressed myself quietly, intending to take a stroll
along the Tanganika before the Doctor should rise ;
opened the door, which creaked horribly on its hinges,
and walked out to the veranda.
" Halloa, Doctor ! — you ujd already ? I hope you
have slept well ?''
" Good-morning, Mr. Stanley ! I am glad to see
you. Hope you rested well. I sat up late reading my
letters. You have brought me good and bad news.
But sit down." He made a place for me by his side.
" Yes, many of my friends are dead. My eldest son
has met with a sad accident — that is, my boy Tom ; my
second son, Oswald, is at college studying medicine,
and is doing well, I am told. Agnes, my oldest daughter,
has been enjoying herself in a yacht, with ' Sir Parafiine
Young and his family. Sir Roderick, also, is well, and
expresses a hope that he will sopn see me. You have
brought me quite a budget."
Nov. 1871.] INTEBCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
423
The man was not an apparition, then, and yesterday's
scenes were not the result of a dream ! and I gazed on
him intently, for thus I was assured he had not run
away, which was the great fear that constantly haunted
me as I was journeying to Ujiji.
" Now, Doctor," said I, " you are, probably, won-
• dering why I came here ?"
" It is true," said he ; "I have been wondering. I
thought- you, at first, an emissary of the French
Government, in the place of Lieutenant Le Saint, who
died a few miles above Gondokoro. I heard you had
boats, plenty of men, and stores, and I really believed
you were some French officer, until I saw the American
flag; and, to tell you the truth, I was ratlier glad it
was so, because I could not have talked to him in
French ; and if he did not know English, we had been
a pretty pair of white men in Ujiji ! I did not like to
ask you yesterday, because it was none of my business."
" Well," said I, laughing, " for your sake I am glad
that I am an American, and not a Frenchman, and tliat
we can understand each otlier perfectly without an
interpreter. I see that the Arabs are wondering tliat
you, an Englisliman, and I, an American, understand
each other. "We must take care not to tell them that
the English and Americans have fought, and that there
are ' Alabama ' claims left unsettled, and that we have
such people as Fenians in America, who hate you.
But, seriously, Doctor — now don't be frightened when I
tell you that I have come after — you!"
" After me ?"
" Yes."
" How ?"
" Well. . You have heard of the ' New York
Uerald?' "
424
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
" Oh — who has not heard of that newspaper ?"
" Sh-sh ! Without his father's knowledge or consent,
Mr. James Grordon Bennett, son of Mr. James Gordon
Bennett, the proprietor of the * Herald,' has commis-
sioned me to find you — to get whatever news of your
discoveries you like to give — and to assist you, if I can,
with means."
" Young Mr. Bennett told you to come after me, to
find me out, and help me ! It is no wonder, then, you
praised Mr. Bennett so much last night."
" I know him — I am proud to say — to be just what I
say he is. He is an ardent, generous, and true man."
" Well, indeed ! I am very much obliged to him ;
and it makes me feel proud to think that you Americans
think" so much of me. You have just come in the
proper time ; for I was beginning to think that I should
have to beg from the Arabs. Even they are in want
of cloth, and there are but few beads in TJjiji. That
fellow Sherif has robbed me of all. I wish I could
embody my thanks to Mr. Bennett in suitable words ;
but if I fail to do so, do not, I beg of you, believe me
the less grateful."
" And now. Doctor, having disposed of this little
affair, Ferajji shall bring breakfast; if you have no
objection."
" You have given me an appetite," he said. " Halimah
is my cook, but she never can tell the difference between
tea and coffee."
Ferajji, the cook, was ready as usual with excellent
tea, and a dish of smoking cakes ; " dampers," as the
Doctor called them. I never did care much for this
kind of a cake fried in a pan, but they were necessary
to the Doctor, who had nearly lost all his teeth from the
hard fare of Lunda. He had been compelled to subsist
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
425
on green ears of Indian corn ; there was no meat in
that district ; and the effort to gnaw at the corn ears
had loosened all his teeth. I preferred the corn scones
of Virginia, which, to my mind, were the nearest
approach to palatable bread obtainable in Central
Africa.
The Doctor said he had thought me a most luxurious
and I'ich man, when he saw my great bath-tub carried
on the shoulders of one of my men ; but he thought me
still more luxurious this morning, when my knives and
forks, and plates, and cups, saucers, silver spoons, and
silver tea-pot were brought forth shining and bright,
spread on a rich Persian carpet, and observed that I
was well attended to by my yellow and ebon Mercuries.
This was the beginning of our life at Ujiji. I knew
him not as a friend before my arrival. He was only
an object to me — a great item for a daily newspaper, as
much as other subjects in which the voracious news-
loving public delight in. I had gone over battlefields,
witnessed revolutions, civil wars, rebellions, emeutes
and massacres ; stood close to the condemned murderer
to record his last struggles and last sighs ; but never
had I been called to record anything that moved me so
much as this man's woes and sufferings, his privations
and di.sappointments, which now were poured into my
ear. Verily did I begin to perceive that " the Gods
above do with just eyes survey the affairs of men." I
began to recognize the hand of ?in overruling and
kindly Providence.
These are facts worthy for reflection. I was com-
missioned for the duty of discovering Livingstone
sometime in October, 1800. Mr. Bennett was ready
with the money, and I was ready for the journey. But,
observe, reader, that I did not proceed directly. upou
426
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
tlie searcli mission. I had many tasks to fulfil before
[roceeding with it, and many thousand miles to travel
over. Supposing that I had gone direct to Zanzibar
from Paris, seven or eiglit months afterwards, |)erhaps,
I should have found myself at Ujiji, but Livingstone
would not have been found there then ; he was on the
Lualaba ; and I should have had to follow him on
his devious tracks through the primeval forests of
Manyuema, and up along the crooked course of the
Lualaba for hundreds of miles. The time taken by me
in travelling up the Nile, back to Jerusalem, then to Con-
stantinojole, Southern Russia, the Caucasus, and Persia,
was employed by Livingstone in fruitful discoveries
west of the Tanganika. Again, consider that I arrived
at Unyanyembe in the latter part of June, and that
owing to a war I was delayed three months at Unyan-
yembe, leading a fretful, peevish and impatient life. But
while I was thus fretting myself, and being delayed by
a series of accidents, Livingstone was being forced back
to Ujiji in the same month. It took him from Jane to
October to march to Ujiji. Now, in September, I
broke loose from the thraldom which accident had
imposed on me, and hurried southward to Ukonongo,
then westward to Kawendi, then northward to Uvinza,
then westward to Ujiji, only about three weekfe after
the Doctor's arrival, to find him resting under the
veranda of his house with his face turned eastward, the
direction from which I was coming. Had I gone direct
from Paris on the search I might have lost him ; had I
been enabled to have gone direct to Ujiji from Unyan-
yembe I might have lost him.
The daj's came and went peacefully and happily,
under the palms of Ujiji. My companion was im-
proving in health and spirits. Life had been brought
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 427
back to him ; Lis foding vitality was restored, his
enthusiasm for his work was growing up again into a
height that was compelling him to desire to be up and
doing. But what could he do, with five men and
fifteen or twenty cloths ?
" Have you seen the northern head of the Tanganika,
Doctor ?" I asked one dav.
" No ; I did try to go there, but the Wajiji were
doing their best to fleece mc, as they did both Burton
and Speke, and I had not a great deal of cloth. If I
had gone to the head of the Tanganika, I could not
have gone to Manyueraa. The central line of drainage
was the most important, and that is the Lualaba.
Before this line the question whether- there is a
connection between the Tanganika and the Albert
N'Yanza sinks into insignificance. The great line of
drainage is the river flowing from latitude 1 1° south,
which I followed for over seven degrees northward. The
Chambezi, the name given to its most southern ex-
tremity, drains a large tract of country south of the
southernmost source of the Tanganika ; it must, there-
fore, be the most important. I have not the least
doubt, myself, but that this lake is the Upper Tanga-
nika, and the Albert N'Yanza of Baker is the Lower
Tanganika, which are connected by a river flowing
from the upper to the lower. This is my belief, based
uj)on reports of the Arabs, and a test I made of the
flow yvith water-plants. But I really never gave it
much thought."
*' Well, if I were you, Doctor, before leaving Ujiji, I
should explore it, and resolve the doubts upon the
subject; lest, after you leave here, you should not return
by this way. The Royal Geographical Society attach
much importance to this supposed connection, and
428
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
declare you are the only man who can settle it. If I
can be of any service to you, you may command me.
Though I did not come to Africa as an explorer, I liave
a good deal of curiosity upon the subject, and should be
willing to accompany you. I have with me about
twenty men who understand rowing ; we have plenty
of guns, cloth, and beads; and if we can get a canoe
from the Arabs we can manage the thing easily."
" Oh, we can get a canoe from Sayd bin Majid. This
man has been very kind to me, and if ever there was
an Arab gentleman, he is one."
" Then it is settled, is it, that we go ?"
" I am ready, whenever you are."
" I am at your command. Don't you hear my
men call you the ' Great Master,' and me the ' Little
Master ?' It would never do for the ' Little Master ' to
command."
By this time Livingstone was becoming known to
me. I defy any one to be in his society long witliout
thoroughly fathoming him, for in liim there is no
guile, and what is apparent on the surface is the thing
that is in him. I hope that in my summary of his
character, and of his discoveries, I offend no one.
I simply write down my own opinion of the man as I
have seen him, not as he represents himself ; as I know
him to be, not as I have heard of Inm. I lived with
him from the 10th November, 1871, to the 14th March,
1872 ; witnessed his conduct in the camp, and on the
march, and my feelings for him are those of unquahfied
admiration. The camp is the best ]ilace to discover a
man's weaknesses, where, if he is flighty or wrong-
headed, he is sure to devek)p his hobbies and weak
side. I think it possible, however, that Livingstone,
with an unsuitable companion, might feel annoyance.
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 429
I know 1 should do so very readily, if a man's character
was of that oblique nature that it was an impossibility
to travel in his company. I have seen men, in whose
company I felt nothing but a thraldom, which it was
a duty to my own self-respect to cast off as soon as
possible ; a feeling of utter incompatibility, with whose
nature mine could never assimilate. But Livingstone's
was a character that I venerated, that called forth all
my enthusiasm, that evoked nothing but sincerest
admiration.
Dr. Livingstone is about sixty years old, though after
he was restored to health he appeared more like a
man who had not passed his fiftieth year. His hair
has a brownish color yet, but is here and there
streaked with grey lines over the temples ; his beard
and moustaches are very grey. His eyes, which
are hazel, are remarkably bright ; he has a sight keen
as a hawk's. His teeth alone indicate the weakness
of age ; the hard fare of Lunda has made havoc in
their lines. His form, which soon assumed a stoutish
appearance, is a little over the ordinary height, with
the slightest possible bow in the shoulders. When
walking he has a firm but heavy tread, like that of an
overworked or fatigued man. He is accustomed to
wear a naval cap with a semicircular peak, by which
he has been identified througliout Africa. His dress,
when first I saw him, exhibited traces* of patching and
repairing, but was scrupulously clean.
I was led to believe that Livingstone possessed a
splenetic, misanthropic temper; some have said tliat he
is garrulous, that he is demented ; that he has utterly
changed from the David Livingstone whom pco])le knew
as the reverend missionary ; that he takes no notes or
430
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
observations but sucli as those which no other person
could read but himself; and it was reported, before I
proceeded to Central Africa, that he was married to an
African princess.
I respectfully beg to differ with all and each of the
above statements. I grant he is not an angel, but
he approaches to that being as near as the nature of
a living man will allow. I never saw any spleen
or misanthropy in him : as for being garrulous, Dr.
Livingstone is quite the reverse ; he is reserved, if
anything ; and to the man who says Dr. Livingstone
is changed, all I can say is, that he never could have
known him, for it is notorious that the Doctor has a
fund of quiet humor, which he exhibits at all times
whenever he is among friends. I must also beg leave
to correct the gentleman who informed me that Living-
stone takes no notes or observations. The huge Letts's
Diary which I carried home to his daughter is full of
notes, and there are no less than a score of sheets within
it filled with observations which he took during the
last trip he made to Manyuema alone ; and in the middle
of the book there is sheet after sheet, column after
column, carefully written, of figures alone. A large
letter which I received from him has been sent to Sir
Thomas MacLear, and this contains nothing but obser-
vations. During the four months I was with him, I
noticed him every evening making most careful notes ;
and a large tin box that he has with him contains
numbers of field note-books, the contents of which I
dare say will see light some time. His maps also
evince great care and industry. As to the report of
his African marriage, it is unnecessary to say more
than that it is untrue, and it is utterly beneath a
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITE LIVINGSTONE.
431
gentleman even to hint at such a thing in connection
with the name of Dr. Livingstone.
You may take any point in Dr. Livingstone's cha-
racter, and analyse it carefully, and I would challenge
any man to find a fault in it. He is sensitive, I
know ; but so is any man of a high mind and generous
nature. He is sensitive on the point of being doubted
or being criticised. But who are they who doubt him ?
Easy-chair geographers, of course ; not the hard-working
travellers who number hundreds on the list of the
Royal Geographical Society. I have not found a
Richard Burton or a Winwood Reade criticising him.
And to have one's maps and observations altered to
suit the caprices of irresponsible parties is no pleasant
thing to a man who has been so painstaking and
indUvStrious. Livingstone may be mistaken in his
conclusions on certain points, but the geographer who
stays at home cannot correct him unless he has data to
go upon received from parties who have explored the
same region. No Francis Galton or Dr. Beke, with
ever so many opinions, can prove tlie Lake Tanganika
a myth ; four travellers have seen and reported upon
it. No Francis Galton or Dr. Beke can prove to
Colonel Grant that there is no such stream as the
Victoria Nile. Yet how much of tbis river — of this
stream — did Colonel Grant see ? Not fifty miles. But,
because he saw it flow north and north-westerly, he
beUeves, sincerely and honestly, that it is tlic same
river which he observed flowing past Gondokoro.
Livingstone also believes that — after following the
Cliambezi, Luapula, and Lualaba, over seven degrees of
latitude, and seeing it still flow northward, and hearing
from natives that tliere is a large lake north of where
he halted in his grand march northward, following the
432 SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
current of tlie mighty Lualaba — that this Lualaba is
none other than the Nile. Has he no right, then, to
feel vexed that easy-chair geographers draw a great
range of mountains, extending over three degrees of
latitude, simply to demonstrate by that black, sinister-
looking line " that he has been knocking his head
against a stone wall ?" Livingstone, with all his know-
ledge of African mysteries, knows not yet how to
manufacture a mountain. He is too humble-souled to
dare attempt to transform the face of nature after the
arbitrary method known to stay-atrhome geographers.*
In Livingstone I have seen many amiable traits.
His gentleness never forsakes him ; his hopefulness
never deserts him. No harassing anxieties, distraction
of mind, long separation from home and kindred, can
make him complain. He thinks " all will come out
right at last;" he has such faith in the- goodness of
Providence. The sport of adverse circumstances, the
j)laything of the miserable beings sent to him from
Zanzibar — he has been baffled and worried, even almost
to tlie grave, yet he will not desert the charge imposed
upon him by his friend. Sir Roderick Murchison. To
the stern dictates of duty, alone, has he sacrificed his
home and ease, the pleasures, refinements, and luxuries
of civilized life. His is the Spartan heroism, the
inflexibility of the Roman, the enduring resolution of
ihe Anglo-Saxon — never to relinquish his work, though
his heart yearns for home ; never to surrender his
obligations until he can write Finis to his work.
There is a good-natured abandon about Livingstone
* All the criticisms which I have Been upon Livingstone's dis-
coveries aro tainted with too much of the odium cieographicum to bo
received with the weight duo to the cool and calm declaration of sound
and logical opinion of experienced travellers and scientific men.
Nov. 1871.] INTEB COURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 433
which was not lost on me. Whenever he began to
langh, there was a contagion about it, that compelled
me to imitate him. It was such a laugh as Herr
Teufelsdrockh's — a laugh of the whole man from head
to heel. If he told a story, he related it in such a way,
as to convince one of its truthfulness ; his face was so
lit up by the sly fun it contained, that I was sure the
story was worth relating, and worth listening to.
The wan features which had shocked me at first
meeting, the heavy step which told of a^e and hard
travel, the grey beard and bowed shoulders, belied the
man. Underneath that well-worn exterioi- lay an
endless fund of high spirits and inexhaustible humor ;
that nigged frame of his enclosed a young and most
exuberant soul. Every day I heard innumerable jokes
and pleasant anecdotes ; interesting hunting stories, in
which his friends Oswell, Webb, Vardon, and Gordon
Gumming were almost always the chief actors. I was
not sure, at first, but this joviality, humor, and abundant
animal spirits were the result of a joyous hysteria ; but
ag I found they continued while I was with him, I am
obliged to think them natural.
Another thing which specially attracted my attention
was his wonderfully retentive memory. If we re-
member the many years he .has spent in Africa,
deprived of books, we may well think it an uncommon
memory that can recite whole poems from Byron,
Burns, Tennyson, Longfellow, Whittier, and Lowell.
The reason of this may be found, perhaps, in the fact,
that he has lived all his life almost, we may say,
within himself. Zimmerman, a great student of
human nature, says on this subject : " The unen-
cumbered mind recalls all that it has read, that all
pleased the eye, and delighted the ear ; and reflecting
2 F
i34
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
on every idea which either observation, or expe-
rience, or discourse has produced^ gains new infor-
mation by every reflection. The intellect contemplates
all the former scenes of life ; views by anticipation
those that are yet to come ; and blends all ideas of past
and future in the actual enjoyment of the present
moment:" He has lived in a world which revolved
inwardly, out of which he seldom awoke except to
attend to the immediate practical necessities of himself
and people ; j;hen relapsed again into the same happy
inner world, which he must have peopled with his own
friends, relations, acquaintances, familiar readings,
ideas, and associations; so that wherever, he might
be. or by whatsoever he was surrounded, his
own world always possessed more attractions to his
cultured mind than were yielded by external cir-
cumstances.
The study of Dr. Livingstone would not be
complete if we did not take the religious side of his
character into consideration. His religion is not of
the theoretical kind, but it is a constant, earnest,
sincere practice. It is neither demonstrative nor loud,
but manifests itself in a quiet, practical way, and is
always at work. It is not aggressive, which sometimes
is troublesome, if not .impertinent. In him, religion
exhibits its loveliest features ; it governs his conduct not
only towards his servants, but towards the natives, the
bigoted Mohammedans, and all who come in contact
with him. Without it, Livingstone, with his ardent
temperament, his enthusiasm, his high spirit and
courage, must have become uncompanionable, and a
hard master. Religion has tamed him, and made him a
Christian gentleman ; the crude and wilful have been
refined and subdued ; religion has made him the most
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINOSTONE.
435
compaiiionable of men and indulgent of masters — a
man whose society is pleasurable to a degree.
I have often heard our servants discuss our respective
merits. " Your master," say my servants to Living-
stone's, " is a good man — a very good man ; he does
not beat you, for he has a kind heart ; but ours — oh !
he is sharp — hot. as fire" — "mkali sana, kana moto."
From being hated and thwarted in every possible wa^
by the Arabs and half-castes upon first arrival in Ujiji,
he has, through his uniform kindness and mild, pleasant
temper, won all hearts. I observed that universal
respect was paid to him. Even the Mohammedans
never passed his house without calling to pay their
compliments, and to say, " The blessing of Grod rest on
you." Each Sunday morning he gathers his little
flock around him, and reads prayers and a chapter from
the Bible, in a natural, unaffected, and sincere tone ;
and afterwards delivers a short address in the Kisawa-
hili language, about the subject read to them, which is
listened to with evident interest and attention.
There is another point in Livingstone's character
about which readers of his books, and students of his
travels, would like to know, and that is his ability to
withstand the dreadful climate of Central Africa, and
the consistent energy with which he follows up his
explorations. His consistent energy is native to him ,
and to his race. He is a very fine example of the
perseverance, doggedness, and tenacity which charac-
terise the Anglo-Saxon spirit ; but his ability to
withstand the climate is due not only to the happy
^ constitution with which he was born, but to the strictly
temperate life he hns ever led. A drunkard and a
man of vicious habits could never have withstood the
climate of Central Africa.
436
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The second day after my arrival in Ujiji I asked tlie
Doctor if he did not feel a desire, sometimes, to visit
his country, and take a little rest after his six years'
explorations ; and the answer he gave me fully reveals
the man. Said he :
" I would like very much to go home and see my
children once again, but I cannot bring my heart to
abandon the task I have undertaken, when it is so
nearly completed. It only requires six or seven
months more to trace the true source tliat I have
discovered with Petherick's branch of the White Nile,
or with the Albert N'Yanza of Sir Samuel Baker
which is the lake called by the natives ' Chowambe.'
Why should I go home before my task is ended, to
have to come back again to do what I can very well
do now ?"
" And why," I asked, " did you come so far back
without finishing the task which you say you have got
to do ?"
" Simply because I was forced. My men would not
budge a step forward. They mutinied, and formed a
secret resolution — if I still insisted on going on — to
raise a disturbance in the country, and nfter they had
effected it to abandon me ; in which case I should have
been killed. It was dangerous to go any further. I had
-explored six hundred miles of the watershed, had traced
all the principal streams which discharged their waters
into the central line of drainage, but wlien about start-
ing to explore the last hundred miles the hearts of ray
people failed them, and they set about frustrating me
in every possible way. Now, having returned seven
hundred miles to get a new supply of stores, and an-
other escort, I find myself destitute of even the means
to live but for a few weeks, and sick in mind and body."
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
437
Here I may pause to ask the reader how he would
have comported himself in such a crisis, under such an
accumulation of difficulties. Many would have been in
exceeding hurry to get home to tell the news of the
continued explorations and discoveries, and to relieve
the anxiety of the sorrowing family and friends await-
ing their return. En'ough surely had been accom-
plished towards the solution of the problem that had
exercised the minds of his scientific associates of the
Royal Geographical Society. This was no negative
exploration, it was hard, earnest labor of years, self-
abnegation, enduring patience, and exalted fortitude,
such as ordinary men fail to exhibit.
Suppose Livingstone, following the custom of other
travellers, had hurried to the coast after he had dis-
covered Lake Bangweolo, to tell the news to the geo-
graphical world ; then bad returned to discover Moero,
and run away again ; then came back once more only
to discover Kamolondo, and to race back again. But
no ; he not ordy discovers the Chambezi, Lake Bang-
weolo, Luapula River, Lake Moero, Lualaba River, and
Lake Kamolondo, but he still tirelessly urges his steps
forward to put the final completion to the grand
lacustrine river system. Had he followed the example
of ordinary explorers, he would have been running
backwards and forwards to tell the news, instead of
exploring ; and he might have been able to write
volume upon the discovery of each lake, and earn
much money thereby. They arc no few months' explo-
rations that form the contents of his books. His
' Missionary Travels ' embi-aces a period of sixteen years ;
his book on the Zambezi, five years ; and if the great
traveller lives to come home, his third book, tlie grandest
of all, must contain the records of eight or nine years.
438
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
It is a principle with Livingstone to do well what
he undertakes to do ; and in the consciousness that
he is doing it, despite the yearning for his home
which is sometimes overpowering, he finds, to a cer-
tain extent, contentment, if not happiness. And
though to men differently constituted a long residence
amongst the savages of Africa -would be contemplated
with horror, yet Livingstone's mind can find pleasure
and food for philosophic studies. The wonders of pri-
meval nature, the great forests and sublime mountains,
the perennial streams and sources of the great lakes,
the marvels of the earth, the splendors of the tropic
sky by day and by night — all terrestrial and celestial
phenomena are manna to a man of such self-abnegation
and devoted philanthropic spirit. He can be charmed
with the primitive simplicity of Ethiop's dusky children,
with whom he has spent so many years of his life ; he
has a sturdy faith in their capabilities ; sees virtue in
them where others see nothing but savagery ; and
wherever he has gone among them, he has sought to
elevate a people that were apparently forgotten of God
and Christian man.
One night I took out my note-book, 'and prepared to
take down from his own lips what he had to say about
his travels ; and unhesitatingly he related his expe-
riences, of which the following is a summary :
Dr. David Livinjrstone left the island of Zanzibar
in March, 18(36. On the 7th of the following month he
departed from Mikindiny Bay for the interior, with an
expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys from Bombay,
nine men from Johanna, of the Comoro Islands, seven
liberated slaves, and two Zambezi men, taking them as
an experiment; six camels, three buffiiloes, two mules,
and three donkeys. He had thus thirty men with him,
Nov. 1871.] INTEBCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
439
twelve of whom, viz., tlie Sepoys, were to act as guards
for the expedition. They were mostly armed with the
.Enfield rifles presented to the Doctor by the Bombay
Government. The baggage of the expedition consisted
of ten bales of cloth and two bags of beads, whicli were
to serve as the currency by which they would be enabled
to purchase the necessaries of life in the countries the
Doctor intended to visit. Besides the cumbrous moneys,
they carried several boxes of instruments, such as chro-
nometers, air thermometers, sextant, and artificial
horizon, boxes containing clothes, medicines, and per-
sonal necessaries. The expedition travelled up the left
bank of the Rovuma River, a route as full of difficulties
as any that could be chosen. For miles Livingstone
and his party had to cut their way with their axes
through the dense and almost impenetrable jungles
which lined the river's banks. The road was a mere
footpath, leading in the most erratic fashion into and
through the dense vegetation, seeking the easiegt outlet
from it without any regard to the course it ran. The
pagazis were able to proceed easily enough, but the
camels, on account of their enormous height, could not
advance a step without the axes of the party first
clearing the way. These tools of foresters were almost
always required ; but the advance of the expedition was
often retarded by the unwillingness of the Sepoys and
Johanna men to work.
Soon after the departure of the expedition from the
coast, the murmurings and complaints of these men
began, and upon every occasion and at every oppor-
tunity they evinced a decided hostility to an advance.
In order to prevent the progress of the Doctor, in hopes
that it would compel him to return to the coast, these
men so cruelly treated the animals that before long there
»
m EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
was not one left alive. But as this scheme failed, they
set about instigating the natives against the white man,
whom they accused most wantonly of strange practices.
As this plan was most likely to succeed, and as it was
dangerous to have such men with him, the Doctor
arrived at the conclusion that it was best to discharge
them, and accordingly sent the Sepoys back to the
coast ; but not without having first furnished them with
the means of subsistence on their journey to the coast.
These men were such a disreputable set that the natives
spoke of them as the Doctor's slaves. One of their
worst sins was their custom of giving their guns and
ammunition to carry to the .first woman or boy they
met, whom they impressed for that purpose by such
threats or promises as they were totally unable to
perform, and unwarranted jin making. An hour's march-
ing was sufficient to fatigue them, after which they lay
down on the road to bewail their hard fate, and concoct
new schemes to frustrate their leader's purposes. To-
wards night they generally made their appearance at
the camping-ground with the looks of half-dead men.
Such men naturally made but a poor escort ; for, had
the party been attacked by a wandering tribe of natives
of any strength, the Doctor could have made no defence,
and no other alternative would have been left to him
but to surrender and be ruined.
The Doctor and his little party arrived on the 18ih July,
1866, at a village belonging to a chief of .the Wahiyou,
situate eight days' march south of the Rovuma, and over-
looking the watershed of the Lake Nyassa. The terri-
tory lying between the Rovuma River and this Wahiyou
chieftain was an uninhabited wilderness, during the
transit of which Livingstone and his expedition suffered
considerably from hunger and desertion of men.
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
4il
Early in August, 1866, the Doctor came to tlie country
of Mponda, a chief who dwelt near the Lake Nyassa.
On the road thither, two of the liberated slaves deserted
him. Here also, Wekotani — not Wakotani — a protege
of the Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleging as
an excuse — an excuse which the Doctor subsequently
found to be untrue — that he had found his brother.
He also stated that his family lived on the east side
of the Nyassa Lake. He further stated that Mponda's
favourite wife was his sister. Perceiving that Weko-
tani was unwilling to go with him further, the Doctor
took him to Mponda, who now saw and heard of him
for the first time, and, having furnished the ungrateful
boy with enough cloth and beads to keep him until his
" big brother " should call for him, left him with the
chief, after first assuring himself that he would
receive honourable treatment from him. The Doctor
also gave Wekotani writing-paper — as he could* read
and write, being accomplishments acquired at Bombay,
where he had been put to school — so that, should
he at any time feel disposed, he might write to Mr.
Horace Waller or to himself. The Doctor further
enjoined him not to join in any of the slave raids
usually made by his countrymen, the men of Nyassa,
on their neighbours. Upon finding tliat his a])})lication
for a discharge was successful, Wekotani endeavoured
to induce Chumah, another protege of the Doctor's, and
a companion, or chum, of Wekotani, to leave the
Doctor's service and proceed with him, promising, as a
bribe, a wife and plenty of pombe from liib " big
brother." Chumah, upon referring the matter to the
Doctor, was advised not to go, as ho (the Doctor)
strongly suspected tliat Wekotani wanted only to niako
him his slave. Chumah wisely withdrew from his
442
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
tempter. From Mponda's, the Doctor proceeded to the
heel of the Nyassa, to the village of a Babisa chief,
who required medicine for a skin disease. With his
usual kindness, he stayed at this chief's village to treat
his malady.
While here, a half-caste Arab arrived from the
western shore of the lake, and reported that he had
been plundered by a baud of Mazitu, at a place which
the Doctor and Musa, chief of the Johanna men, were
very well aware was at least 150 miles north-north-
west of where they were then stopping. Musa, how-
ever, for his own reasons— which will appear presently
— eagerly listened to the Arab's tale, and gave full
credence to it. Having well digested its horrible
details, he came to the Doctor to give him the full
benefit of what he had heard with such willing ears.
The traveller patiently listened to the narrative, which
lost nothing of its portentous significance through
Musa's relation, and then asked Musa if he believed it.
" Yes," answered Musa, readily j " he tell me true, true.
I ask him good, and he tell true, true." The Doctor,
however, said he did not believe it, for the Mazitu
would not have been satisfied with merely plundering
a man, they would have murdered him ; but suggested,
in order to allay the fears of his Moslem subordinate,
that they should both proceed to the chief with whom
they were staying, who, being a sensible man, would
be able to advise them as to the probability or impro-
bability of the tale being correct. Together, they pro-
ceeded to the Babisa chief, who, when lie had heard the
Arab's story, unhesitatingly denounced the Arab as a
liar, and his story without the least foundation in fact ;
giving as a reason that, if the Mazitu had been lately in
that vicinity, he should have heard of it soon enough.
Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOmSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 443
But Musa broke out with " No, no, Doctor ; no, no,
no ; I no want to go to Mazitu. I no want Mazitu to
kill me. I want see my father, my mother, my child,
in Johanna. I want no Mazitu." These are Musa's
ipsissima verba.
To which the Doctor replied, " I don't want Mazitu
to kill me either ; hut, as you are afraid of them, I
promise to go straight west until we get far past the
beat of the Mazitu."
Musa was not satisfied, but kept moaning and sorrow-
ing, saying, " If we had two hundred guns with us I
would go ; but our small party of men will attack by
night, and kill all."
The Doctor repeated his promise, " But I will not go
near them ; I will go west."
As soon as he turned his face westward, Musa and
the Johanna men ran away in a body.
The Doctor says, in commenting upon Musa's con-
duct, that he felt strongly tempted to shoot Musa and
another ringleader, but was, nevertheless, glad that he
did not soil his hands with their vile blood. A day or
two afterwards, another of his men — Simeon Price by
name — came to the Doctor with the same tale about
the Mazitu, but, compelled by the scant number of his
people to repress all such tendencies to desertion and
faint-heartedness, the Doctor silenced him at once, and
sternly forbade him to utter the name of the Mazitu
any more.
Had the natives not assisted him, he must have de-
spaired of ever being able to penetrate the wild and
unexplored interior which he was now about to tread.
"Fortunately," as the Doctor stiyswith unction, "I was
in a country now, after leaving the shores of Nyassa,
which the foot of the slave-trader has not trod ; it
144 MOW I FO UND LIVINGS TONE.
was a new and virgin land, and of course, as I have
always found in such cases, the natives were really good
and hospitable, and for very small portions of cloth
my baggage was conveyed from village to village by
them." In many other ways the traveller, in his ex-
tremity, was kindly treated by the yet unsophisticated
and innocent natives.
On leaving this hospitable region in the early part
of December, 186G, the Doctor entered a country where
the Mazitu had exercised their customary marauding
propensities. The land was swept clean of provisions
and cattle, and the people had emigrated to other
countries, beyond the bounds of those ferocious plun-
derers. Again the expedition was besieged by the
pinching hunger they suffered ; they had recourse to
the wild fruits which some parts of the country fur-
nished. At intervals the condition of the hard-pressed
band was made worse by the heartless desertion of some
of its members, who more than once departed with the
Doctor's jDersonal kit, changes of clothes, linen, &c.
With more or less misfortunes constantly dogging
his footsteps, he traversed in safety the countries
of the Babisa, Bobemba, Baruugu, Ba-ulungu, and
Luuda.
In the country of Lunda lives the famous Cazembe,
who was first made known to Europeans by Dr. Lacerda,
the Portuguese traveller. Cazembe is a most intelUgent
prince ; he is a tall, stalwart man, who wears a peculiar
kind of dress, made of crimson .print, in the form of a
prodigious kilt. In this state dress. King Cazembe
received Dr. Livingstone, surrounded by his chiefs and
body-guards. A chief, who had been deputed by the
King and elders to discover all about the white man,
then stood up before the assembly, and in a loud voice
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOTJBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
445
gave the result of the inquiry he had instituted. He had
heard that the wliite man had come to look for waters,
for rivers, and seas ; though he could not understand
what the white man could want with such things, he
had no doubt that the object was good. Then Cazembe
asked what the Doctor proposed doing, and where he
thought of going. • The Doctor replied that he had
thought of proceeding south, as he had heard of lakes
and rivers being in that direction. Cazembe asked,
" "What can you want to go there for ? The water is
close here. There is plenty of large water in this neigh-
bourhood." Before breaking up the assembly, Cazembe
gave orders to let the white man go where he would
through his country undisturbed and unmolested. He
was the first Englishman he had seen, he said, and he
liked him.
Shortly after his introduction to tlie King, the Queen
entered the large Ijouse, surroimded by a body-guard
of Amazons with spears. She was a fine, tall, handsome
young woman, and evidently tliought she was about to
make an impression upon the rustic white man, for she
had clothed herself after a most royal fashion, and was
armed with a ponderous spear. But her appearance —
so different from what the Doctor had imagined — caused
him to laugh, which entirely spoiled the effect in-
tended ; for the laugh of the Doctor was so contngious,
that she Jierself was tlie first to imitate it, and the
Amazons, courtier-like, followed suit. Much discon-
certed by this, the Queen ran back, followed by her
obedient damsels — a retreat most undignified and un-
queenlikc, compared with lier majestic advent into the
Doctor's presence. But Livingstone will have much to
say about his reception at this court, and about this
interesting King and Queen ; and who can so well relate
446
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the scenes he witnessed, and which belong exclusively
to him, as he himself?
Soon after his arrival in the country of Lunda, or
Londa, and before he had entered the district ruled over
by Cazembe, he had crossed a river called the Chambezi,
which was quite an important stream. The similarity
of the name with that large and noble river south,
which will be for ever connected with his name, misled
Livingstone at that time, and he, accordingly, did not
pay to it the attention it deserved, believing that the
Chambezi was but the head-waters of the Zambezi, and
consequently had no bearing or connection with the
sources of the river of Egypt, of which he was in search.
His fault was in relying too implicitly upon the cor-
rectness of Portuguese information. This error it cost
him many months of tedious labour and travel to rectify.
From the beginning of 1867 — the time of his arrival
at Cazembe's — till the middle of March, 1869 — the time
of his arrival at Ujiji — he was mostly engaged in cor-
recting the errors and misrepresentations of the Por-
tuguese travellers. 'The Portuguese, in speaking of
the River Chambezi, invariably spoke of it as " our
own Zambezi," — that is, the Zambezi which flows
through the Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique.
" In going to Cazembe from Nyassa," said they, " you
will cross our own Zambezi." Such positive and
reiterated information — given not only orally, but in
their books and maps — was, naturally, confusing.
When the Doctor perceived that what he saw and
what they described were at variance, out pf a sincere
wish to be correct, and lest he might have been mis-
taken himself, he started to retravel the ground he
had travelled before. Over and over again he traversed
the several countries watered by the several rivers of
Nov. 1871.] INTEECOURSE Wim LIVINGSTONE.
^7
the complicated water system, like an uneasy spirit.
Over and over again he asked the same questions from
the different peoples he met, until he was obHged to
desist, lest they might say, " The man is mad ; he has
got water on the brain !"
But his travels and tedious labours in Luuda and
the adjacent countries have established beyond doubt
— first, that the Chambezi is a totally distinct river
from the Zambezi of the Portuguese ; and, secondly,
that the Chambezi, starting from about latitude 11
.south, is no other than the most southerly feeder of
the great Nile ;* thus giving that famous river a length
of over 2,000 miles of direct latitude ; making it, second
to the Mississippi, the longest river in the world. The
real and true name of the Zambezi is Dombazi. When
Lacerda and his Portuguese successors, coming to
Cazembe, crossed the Chambezi, and heard its name,
they very naturally set it down as " our own Zambezi,"
and, without further inquiry, sketched it as running in
that direction.
During his researches in that region, so pregnant
in discoveries, Livingstone came to a lake lying
north-east of Cazembe, which the natives call Liemba.
from the country of that name which bordered it on
the east and south. In tracing the lake north, he
found it to be none other than the Tanganika, or
the south-eastern extremity of it, which looks, on the
Doctor's map, very much like an outline of Italy. The
latitude of the southern end of this great body of water
is about 8° 42' south, which thus gives it a length,
from north to south, of 360 geographical miles. From
the southern extremity of the Tanganika lie crossed
Marungu, and came in sight of Lake ]\Ioero. Tracing
ihis lake, which is about sixty miles in length, to its
448
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
soutbern head, he found a river, called the Luapula,
entering it from that direction. Following the Luapula
south, he found it issue from the large lake of Bang-
weolo, which is nearly as large in superficial area as
the Tanganika. In exploring for the waters w^hich
discharged themselves into the lake, he found that by far
the most important of these feeders was the Chambezi ;
so that he had thus traced the Chambezi from its source
to Lake Bangweolo, and the issue from its northern
head, under the name of Luapula, and found it enter
Lake Moero. Again he returned to Cazembe's, well
satisfied that the river running north through three
degrees of latitude could not be the river running
south under the name of Zambezi, though there might
be a remarkable resemblance in their names.
At Cazembe's he found an old white-bearded half-
caste named Mahomraed bin Sali, who was kept as a
kind of prisoner at large by the King because of certain
suspicious circumstances attending his advent and stay
in the country. Through Livingstone's influence
Mahommed bin Sali obtained his release. On the
road to Ujiji he had bitter cause to regret having
exerted himself in the halt-caste's behalf. He turned
otit to be a most ungrateful wretch, who poisoned the
minds of the Doctor's few followers, and ingratiated
himself v^'ith them by selling the favours of his con-
cubines to them, by which he reduced them to a kind of
bondage under him. The Doctor was deserted by all
but two, even faithful Susi and Chumah deserted him
for the service of Mahommed bin Sali. But they soon
repented, and returned to their allegiance. From the
day he had the vile old man in his company manifold
and bitter misfortunes followed the Doctor up to his
arrival at Ujiji in March, 18G9.
Nov. 1871.] INTEBCOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONB.
449
From tlie date of his arrival until the end of June,
1869, he remained at Ujiji, whence he dated those
letters which, thongh the outside world still doubted
his being alive, satisfied tlie minds of the Royal
Geographical people, and his intimate friends, that he
still existed, and that Musa's tale was the false though
insrenious fabrication of a cowardlv deserter. It was
during this time that the thought occurred to him of
sailing around the Lake Tanganika, but the Arabs and
natives were so bent upon fleecing him that, had he
undertaken it, the remainder of his goods would not
have enabled him to explore the central line of drainage,
the initial point of which he found far south of Cazembe's,
in about latitude 1 1°, in the river called Chambezi.
In the days when tired Captain Burton was resting
in Ujiji, after his march from the coast near Zanzibar,
the land to which Livingstone, on his departure from
Ujiji, bent his steps was unknown to the Arabs save by
vague report. Messrs. Burton and Speke never heard
of it, it seems. Speke, who was the geographer of
Burton's expedition, heard of a plnce called Urua,
which he placed on his map, according to the general
direction indicated by the Arabs ; but the most enter-
prising of the Arabs, in their search after ivory, only
touched the frontiers of Rua, as the natives and Living-
stone call it ; for Rua is an immense country, with a
length of six degrees of latitude, and as yet an un-
defined breadth from east to west.
At the end of June, 18(50, Livingstone quitted
Ujiji and crossed over to Uguhba, on tlie western
shore, for his last and greatest series of explorations ;
the result of which was the further discovery of a lake
of considerable magnitude connected with Moero by
tlie large river called the Lualaba, and which was a
2. o
450
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
continuation of the chain of lakes he had previously
discovered. "
From the port of Uguliha he set off, in company with
a body of traders, in an almost direct westerly course,
for the country of Urua. Fifteen days' march bi'ought
them to Bambarre, the first important ivory depot
in Manyema, or, as the natives pronounce it, Ma-
nyuema. For nearly six months he was detained at
Bambarre from ulcers in the feet, which discharged
bloody ichor as soon as he set them on the ground.
When recovered, he set off in a northerly direction, and
after several days came to a broad lacustrine river,
called the Lualaba, flowing northward and westward,
and in some places southward, in a most confusing way.
The river was from one to three miles broad. By
exceeding pertinacity he contrived to follow its erratic
course, until he saw the Lualaba enter the narrow, long
lake of Kamolondo, in about latitude G° 30'. Eetracing
this to the south, he came to the point where he had
seen the Luapula enter Lake Moero.
One feels quite enthusiastic when listening to Living-
stone's description of the beauties of Moero .scenery.
Pent in on all sides by high mountains, clothed to the
edges with the rich vegetation of the tropics, the Moero
discharges its superfluous waters through a deep reiifc
in the bosom of the mountains. Tlie impetuous and
grand river roars through the chasm with the thunder
of a cataract, but soon after leaving its confined and
deep bed it expands into the calm and broad Lualaba,
• stretching over miles of ground. After making gj^eat
bends west and south-west, and then curving north-
ward, it enters Kamolondo, I5y the natives it is called
the Lualaba, but tiie Doctor, in order to distinguish it
from other rivers of tlic same name, has given it the
Xov. 1871.] INTERCOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
451
name of " Webb's River," after Mr, "Webb, the wealthy
proprietor of Newstead Abbey, whom the Doctor distin-
guishes as one of his oldest and most consistent friends.
Away to the south-w^est from Kamolondo is another
large lake, which discharges its waters by the important
River Loeki, or Lomarai, into the great Lualaba. To
this lake, known as Chebungo by the natives, Doctor
Livingstone has given the name of " Lincoln," to be
hereafter distinguished on maps and in books as Lake
Lincoln, in memory of Abraham Lincoln, our murdered
President. This was done from the vivid impression
produced on his mind by hearing a portion of his
inauguration speech read from an English pulpit, which
related to the causes that induced him to issue his
Emancipation Proclamation, by which memorable deed
4,000,000 of slaves were for ever freed. To the me-
mory of the man whose labours on behalf of the negro
race deserves the commendation of all good men,
Livingstone has contributed a monument more durable
than brass or stone.
Entering "Webb's River from the south-south-west, a
little north of Kamolondo, is a large river called Lufira,
but the streams that discharge themselves from the water-
shed into the Lualaba are so numerous that the Doctor's
hiap would not contain them, so he has left all out except
the most important. Continuing his way north, tracing
the Lualaba through its manifold and crooked curves
as far as latitude 4° south, he came to where he heard of
another lake to the north, into which it ran. But here
you may come to a dead halt, and read what lies beyond
tiiis spot thus This was the furthermost point,
whence he was compelled to return on the weary road
to Ujiji, a distance of 700 miles.
Li tiiis brief sketch of Dr, Livingstone's wonderful
452
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
travels it is to be hoped the most superficial reader, as
-^ell as the student of geography, comprehends this
grand system of lakes connected together by Webb's
Eiver. To assist him, let him glance at the map
accompanying this book. He will then have a fair
idea of what Dr. Livingstone has been doing during
these long years, and what additions he has made to the
study of African geography. That this river, dis-
tinguished under several titles, flowing from one lake
into another in a northerly direction, with all its great
crooked bends and sinuosities, is the Nile — the true
Nile — the Doctor has not the least doubt. For a long
time he entertained great scepticism, because of its deep
bends and curves west, and south-west even ; but,
having traced it from its head waters, the Chambezi,
through 7° of latitude— that is, from 1 1° S. to lat. 4° N.
— he has been compelled to come to the conclusion that
it can be no other river than the Nile. He had thought
it was the Congo ; but has discovered the sources of the
Congo to be the Kassai and the Kwango, two rivers
which rise on the western side of the Nile watershed,
in about the latitude of Bangweolo ; and he was told of
another river, called tl;e Lubilash, which rose from
the north, and ran west. But the Lualaba, the Doctor
thinks, cannot be the Congo, from its great size and*
body, and from its steady and continued flow north-
ward through a broad and extensive valley, bounded
by enormous mountains westerly and easterly. The
altitude of the most northerly point to which the Doctor
•traced the wonderful river was a little in excess of
2,000 feet ; so tliat, though Baker makes out liis lake
to be 2,700 feet above the sea, yet the Bahr Ghazal,
through which Pctherick's branch of the White Nile
issues into the Nile, is but 2,000 feet ; in which case
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITE LIVINGSTONE. 453
there is a possibility that the Lualaba may be none other
than Petherick's branch.
It is well known that trading stations for ivory have
been established for about 500 miles up Petherick's
branch. We must remember this fact when told that
Gondokoro, in lat. 4° N., is 2,000 feet above the sea,
and lat. 4° S., where the halt was made, is ouly a little
over 2,000 feet above the sea. That the two rivers
said to be 2,000 feet above the sea, separated from each
other by 8° of latitude, are one and the same river,
may among some men be regarded as a startling state-
ment. But we must restrain mere expressions of
surprise, and take into consideration that this mighty
and broad Lualaba is a lacustrine river broader than
the Mississippi ; that at intervals the body of water
forms extensive lakes ; then, contracting into a broad
river, it again forms a lake, and so on, to lat. 4° ;
and even beyond this point the Doctor hears of a large
lake again north.
We must wait also uniil the altitudes of the two
rivers, the Lualaba, where the Doctor halted, and tlie
southern point on the Bahr Ghazal, where Petherick
has been, are known with perfect accuracy.
Now, for the sake of argument,- suppose we give this
nameless lake a length of 6° of latitude, as it nu»y
be tlie one discovered by Piaggia, the Italian traveller,
from which Petherick's branch of the White Nile
issues out through reedy marshes, into the Bahr Ghazal.
thence into the White Nile, south of Gondokoro. I'y
this method we can suppose the rivers one ; for if
the lake extends over so many degrees of latitude,
the necessity of explaining the diflerences of ahitude
that must naturally exist between two points of a
river 8° of latitude apart, would be obviated.
454
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Also, Livingstone's instruments for obseTvation and
taking altitudes may have been in error ; and tbis is
very likely to have been the case, subjected as they
have been to rough handling during nearly six years
of travel. Despite the apparent difficulty of the alti-
tude, there is another strong reason for believing
Webb's River, or the Lualaba, to be the Nile. The
watershed of this river, 600 miles of which Livingstone
has travelled, is drained from a valley which lies north
and south between lofty eastern and western ranges.
This valley, or line of drainage, while it does not
receive the Kassai and the Kwango, receives rivers
flowing from a great distance west, for instance, the
important tributaries Lufira and Lomami, and large
rivers from the east, such as the Lindi and Luamo ;
and, while the most intelligent Portuguese travellers
and traders state that the Kassai, the Kwango, and
Lubilash, are the head waters of the Congo River, no
one has yet started the supposition that the grand
river flowing north, and known by the natives as the
Lualaba, was the Congo.
This river may be the Congo, or, perhaps, tlie Niger.
If the Lualaba is only 2,000 feet above the sea, and
the Albert N'Yanza 2.700 feet, the Lualaba cannot
enter that lake. If the Bahr Ghazal does not extend
by an arm for eight degrees above Gondokoro, then
the Lualaba cannot be the Nile. But it would be
premature to dogmatize on the subject. Livingstone
will clear up the point himself; and, if he finds it to
be the Congo, will be the first to admit his error.
Livingstone admits the Nile sources have not been
found, though he has traced the Lualaba through
seven degrees of latitude flowing north ; and, though
he has not a particle of doubt of its being the Nile,
Nov. 1871.1 INTERCOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
not yet can the Nile question be said to be resolved
and ended. For two reasons :
1. He has heard of the existence of four fountains,
two of which give birth to a river flowing north, "Webb's
River, or the Lualaba, and to a river flowing south,
which is the Zambezi. He has repeatedly heard of these
fountains from the natives. Several times he has
been within 100 and 200 miles from them, but some-
thing always interposed to prevent his going to see
them. According to those who have seen them, they
rise on either side of a mound or level, which contains
no stones. Some have called it an ant-hill. One
of these fountains is said to be so large that a man,
standing on one side, cannot be seen from the other.
These fountains must be discovered, and their position
taken. The Doctor does not suppose them to be south
of the feeders of Lake Bangweolo. In his letter to the
' Herald ' he says : " These four full-grown gushing
fountains, rising so near each other, and giving origin
to four large rivers, answer in a certain degree to the
description given of the unfathomable fountains of the
Nile, by the secretary of Minerva, in the city of Sais,
in Egypt, to the father of all travellers — Herodotus."
For the information of such readers as may not have
the original at hand I append the following from Gary's
translation of Herodotus : —
With respect to the sonrces of the Nile, no man of all tlio
Egyptians, Libyans, or Grecians, with whom I have conversed, ever
prottindcd to know anything, excopt tho registrar of Minerva's treasury
at Sais, in Egypt. lie, indeed, seemed to be trifling witli me when ho
said ho know perfectly well ; yet his account was as foUows : " That
there are two mountains, rising into a sharp peak, situated between
tho city of Syeno, in Thcbais, and Eiophantino. The names of these
mountains are, tho ono Crophi, tho other Mophi ; tiiat the sources of
tho Nile, which aro bottomless, flow from between theso mountains;
456
EOW I FOUXD LiriXGSTOXE.
and that haK of the water flows over Egypt and to the north, the other
half over Ethiopia and the south. That the fountains of the Nile are
hottomless, he said, Psammitichus, King of Egypt, proved by experi-
ment : for, having caused a line to be twisted many thousand fathoms in
Length, he let it down, but could not find a bottom." Such, then, was the
opinion the registrar gave, if, indeed, he spoke the real truth ; proving,
in my opinion, that there are strong whirlpools and an eddy here, so that
the water beating against the rocks, a sounding-line, when let down,
cannot reach the bottom. I was unable to learn anything more from
any one else. But thus much I learnt by carrying my researches as
far as possible, having gone and made my own observations as far as
Elephantine, and beyond that obtaining information from hearsay.
As one ascends the river, above the city of Elephantine, the coimtry is
steep ; here, therefore, it is necessary to attach a rope on both sides of
a beat, as one does with an ox in a plough, and so proceed ; but if the
rope should happen to break, the boat is carried away by the force of
the stream. This kind of country lasts for a four-days' passage, and
the Xile here ^vinds as much as the Maander. There ai"e twelve
sehoeni, which it is necessary to sail through in this manner ; and after
that you will come to a level plain, where the Nile flows round an
island ; its name is Tachompso. Ethiopians inhabit the country
immediately above Elephantine, and one half of the island ; the other
half is inhabited by Egj-ptians. Near to this island lies a vast lake,
on the borders of which Ethiopian nomades dwell. After sailing
through this lake you will come to the chaimel of the Nile, which flows
into it : then you will have to land and travel forty days by the side of
the river, for sharp rocks rise in the Nile, and there are many sunken
ones, through which it is not possible to navigate a boat. Having
passed this country in the forty days, you mnst go on board another
boat, and sail for tv\elve days : and then you will arrive at a large city,
called Meroe : this city is said to be the capital of all Ethiopia. The
inhabitants worship no other gods than Jupiter and Bacchus. ; but these
they honour with great magnificence. They have also an oracle of
Jupiter ; and they make war whenever that god bids them by an oracular
warning, and against whatever country he bids them. Sailing from
this city, you will arrive at the country of the Automoli, in a space of
time equal to that which you. took in coming from Elephantine to the
capital of the Ethiopians. These Automoli are called by the name of
Asrnak, which, in the language of Greece, signifies " those that stand
at the left hand of the king." These, to the number of two hundred
and forty thousand of the Egyptian war-tribe, revolted to the Ethio-
pians on the following occasion. In the reign of King Psammitichus
garrisons were stationed at Elephantine against the Ethiopians, and
Nov. 1871.] INTEBCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
457
another at the Pelusian Daphnae against the Arabians and Syrians,
and another at Marea against Libya ; and even in my time garrisons
of the Persians are stationed in the same places as they were in the
time of Psammitichus, for they maintain guards at Elephantine and
Daphnte. Now, these Egyj^tians, after they had been on duty three
years, were not relieved ; therefore, having consulted together and
come to an unanimous resolution, they all revolted from Psammitichus,
and went to Ethiopia. Psammitichus, hearing of this, pm-sued them ;
and when he overtook them he entreated them by many arguments,
and adjured them not to fopsake the gods of their fiithers, and their
children and wives. But one of them is reported to have uncovered
his private parts, and to have said, " that wheresoever these were,
there they should find both childi-en and wives." These men, when
they arrived in Ethiopia, offered their services to the king of the
Ethiopians, who made them tlie following recompence. There were
certain Ethiopians disafiected towards him ; these he bade them expel,
and take possession of their land. By the settlement of these men
among the Ethiopians, the Ethiopians became more civilized, and
learned the manners of the Egyptians.
Now, for a voyage and land journey of four months, the Nile is
known, in addition to the part of the stream that is in Egypt ; for,
upon computation, so many months are known to be spent by a person
who travels from Elephantine to the Automoli. This river flows fi'om
the west and the setting of the sun ; but beyond this no one is able
to speak with certainty, for the rest of the country is desert by reason
of the excessive heat. But I have heard the following account from
certain Cyrenseans, who say that they went to the oracle of Ammon,
and had a conversation with Etearchus, King of the Ammonians, and
that, among other subjects, they happened to discourse about the Nile
— that nobody knew its sources ; whereupon Etc^archus said that
certain Nasamonians once came to him — this nation is Lybian, and
inhabits the Syrtis, and the country for no great distance eastward of
the Syrtis — and that when these Nasamonians arrived, and were asked
if they could give any further information touching the deserts of
Libya, tlicy answered, that there were some daring youtlis amongst
them, sous of powerful men ; and that they, having reached man's
estate, formed many other extra vugaut plans, and, moreover, chose fivo
of their number by lot to explore the deserts of Libya, to see if thoy
could make any further discovery than those who had penetrated the
farthest. (For, as respects the parts of Libya along tho Northern
Sea, beginning from Egypt to tho promontory of Solois, where is the
extremity of Libya, Libyans and various nations of Libyans roach
all along it, except those parts which aro occupied by Grecians and
453
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Phoenicians ; but as respects the parts above the sea, and those nations
which reach down to the sea, in the npper parts Libya is infested by
wild beasts ; and all beyond that is sand, dreadfully short of water,
and utterly desolate.) They further related, " that when the young
men deputed by their conjpanions set out, well furnished with water
and provisions, they passed first through the' inhabited country ; and
having traversed this, they came to the region infested by wild
beasts ; and after this they crossed the desert, making their way
towards the west ; and when they had traversed much SiUidy ground,
during a journey of many days, they at length s;\w some trees
growing in a plain ; and that they approached and began to gather
the fmit that grew on the trees ; and while they were gathering, some
diminutive men, le*s than men of middle stature, came up, and having
seized them carried theni away ; and that the Xasamonians did not at
all understand their language, nor those who carried them off the
language of the Xasamonians. However, they conducted them through
vast morasses, and when they had passed these, they came to a city,
in which all the inhabitants were of the same size as their conductors,
and black in color : and by the city flowed a great river, rimning from
the west to the east, and that crocodiles were seen in it." Thus far I
have set forth the account of Etearchus the Ammonian ; to which may
be added, as the Cyrenaeans assured me, " that he said the Xasamonians
all returned safe to their own country, and that the men whom they
came to were all necromancers." Etearchus also conjectured that this
river, which flows by their city, is the Xile ; and reason so evinces :
for the Xile flows from Libya, and intersects it in the middle ; and
(as 1 conjecture, inferring things unknown from things known) it
sets out from a point corresponding with the Ister. For the Ister,
beginning from the Celts, and the city of P%Tene, divides Europe in its
course ; but the Celts are beyond the pillars of Hercules, i\nd border
on the territories of the Cynesians, who lie in the extremity of Europe
to tho westward ; and the Ister terminates by flowing through all
Europe into the Euiine Sea, where a Milesian colony is settled in
Istria. Now the Lster, as it flows through a well-peopled country, is
generally known ; but no one is able to speak about the sources of
the Nile, because Libya, through which it flows, is tminbabited and
desolate. Respecting this stream, therefore, as far as I was able to
reach by inquiry, I have already spoken. Ii however discharges
itself into Egypt ; and Egypt lies, as near as may be, opposite to the
mountains of Cilicia ; from whence to Sinope, on the Euxine Sea, is a
five days' journey in a straight line to an active man ; and Sinope is
opposite to the Ister, where it discharges itseK into the sea. So I
think that the Nile, traversing the whole of Libya, may be properly
Nov. 1871.] INTEECOUBSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 459
compared with the Ister. Such, then, is the account that I am able to
give respecting the Nile.
2. Webb's River must be traced to its connection
with some portion of the old Nile.
When these two things have been accomplished,
then, and not till then, can the mystery of the Nile be
explained. The two coimtries through which the
marvellous lacustrine river, the Lualaba, flows, with its
manifold lakes and broad expanse of water, are Rua
(the Uruwwa of Speke) and Manyuema. For the first
time Europe is made aware that between the Tangan-
ika and the known sources of the Congo there exist
teeming millions of the negro race, who never saw, or
heard of, the white people who make such a noisy and
busy stir outside of Africa. Upon the minds of those
who had the good fortune to see the first specimen of
these remarkable white races in Dr. Livingstone, he
seems to have made a favourable impression, though,
through misunderstanding his object, and coupling him
with the Arabs, who make horrible woYk there, his life
was sought more than once. These two extensive coun-
tries, Rua and Manyuema, are populated by true heathens,
governed, not as the sovereignties of Karagwah, Urundi,
and Uganda, by despotic kings, but each village by its
own sultan or lord. Thirty miles outside of their own
immediate settlements, the most intelligent of these
small chiefs seem to know nothing. Thirty miles from
the Lualaba, there were but few people who had ever
heard of the great river. Such ignorance among the
natives of their own countries naturally increased the
labours of Livingstone. Compared with these, all
tribes and nations in Africa with whom Livingstone
came in contact may be deemed civilized, yet, in the
460
HOW I FOUXB LiriNGSTO^^JS.
arts of liome manufacture, these "wild people of Ma-
nyuema were far superior to any lie had seen. "Where
other trihes and nations contented themselves with
hides and skins of animals thrown i.egHgentlj over
their shoulders, the people of Manyuema manufactured a
cloth fi'om fine grass, which may favourably compare
with the finest grass cloth of India. They also know
the art of dyeing them in various colours — black,
yellow, and purple. The Wangwana, or freed-men
of Zanzibar, struck with the beauty of the fabric,
eagerly exchange their cotton cloths for fine grass
doth ; and on almost every black man from Manyuema
I have seen this native cloth converted into elegantly
made d amirs (Arabic) — short jackets. These countries
are also very rich' in ivory. The fever for going to
Manyuema to exchange tawdry beads for its precious
tusks, is of the same kind as that which impelled
men to the gulches arid j)lacers of California, Colorado,
Montana, and Idaho ; after nuggets to Australia, and
diamonds to Cape Colony. Manyuema is at present
the El Dorado of the Arabs and the ^amrima tribes.
It is onlv about four vears since that the first Arab
returned from Manyuema, with such wealth of ivory,
and reports about the fabulous quantities found there,
that ever since the old beaten tracks of Karagwah,
Uganda, Ufipa, and Marungu, have been comparatively
deserted. The people of Manyuema, ignorant of the
value of the precious article, reared their huts upon
ivory stancjiions. Ivory pillars were common sights
in Manyuema, and, heaiiug of these, one can no
longer wonder at the ivory palace of Solomon. For
generations they have used ivory tusks as door-posts
and supports to the eaves, until they had become
perfectly rotten and worthless. But the advent of
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOUESE WITE LIVINGSTONE.
461
the Arabs soon taught them the vahie of the article.
It has now risen considerably in price, though still
fabulously cheap. At Zanzibar, the value of ivory per
frasilah of 35 lbs. weight is from $50 to $G0, according
to its quality. In Unyanyembe it is about $1"10 per
pound, but in Manyuema it may be purchased for from
half a cent to Ij cent's worth of copper per pound of
ivory. The Arabs, however, have the knack of spoiling
markets by their rap&city and cruelty. With muskets,
a small party of Arabs is invincible against such
people as those of Manyuema, who, until lately, never
heard the sound of a gun. The discharge of a musket
ii'«5pires mortal terror in them, and it is almost im-
possible to induce them to face the muzzle of a gun.
They believe that the Arabs have stolen the lightning,
and that against such people the bow and arrow can
have little effect. They are by no means devoid of
courage, and they have often declared that, were it not
for the guns, not one Arab would leave the country
alive ; this tends to prove that they would willingly
engage in fight with ' the strangers who have made
themselves so detestable, were it not that the startling
explosion of gunpowder inspires them with terror.
Into what country soever the Arabs enter, they con-
trive to render their name and race abominated. But
the mainspring of it all is not the Arab's nature, color,
or name, but simply the slave-trade. So long as the
slave trade is permitted to be kept up at Zanzibar, so
long will these otherwise enterprising people, the
Arabs, kindle against them the hatred of the natives
throughout Africa.
On the main line of travel from Zanzibar into the
interior of Africa these acts of cruelty are unknown,
for the very good reason that the natives having
462
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE,
been armed with guns, and tauglit bow to use those
weapons, are by no means loth to do so whenever
an opportunity presents itself. AYben, too late, they
have perceived their folly in selling guns to the
natives, the Arabs now begin to vow vengeance on
the person who will in future sell a gun to a native.
But they are all guilty of the same mistake, and it
is strange they did not perceive that it was folly
when they were doing so. In former days the Arab,
when protected by his slave escort, armed with
guns, could travel through Useguhha, Urori, Ukonongo,
Ufipa, Karagwah, Unyoro, and Uganda, with only a
stick in his hand ; now, however, it is impossible for
him or any one else' to do so. Every step he takes,
armed or unarmed, is fraught with danger. The
Waseguhha, near the coast, detain him, and demand
the tribute, or give him the option of war ; entering
Ugogo, he is subjected every day to the same oppres-
sive demand, or to the fearful alternative. The Wa-
nyamwezi also show their readiness to take the
same advantage ; the road to Karagwah is besieged
with difficulties ; the terrible Mirambo stands in the
way, defeats their combined forces with ea^e, and makes
raids even to the doors of their houses in Unyanyembe ;
and should they succeed in passing Mirambo, a chief —
Swaruru — stands before them who demands tribute by
the bale, and against whom it is useless to contend.
These remarks have reference to the slave-trade inaugu-
rated in Manyuema by the Arabs. Harassed on the
road between Zanzibar and Unyanyembe by minatory
natives, who with bloody hands are ready, to avenge
the sliirhtest affront, the Arabs have refrained from
kidnapping between the Tanganika and the sea ; Imt
in Manyuema, where the natives are timid, irresolute.
Nov. 1871.J INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
463
and divided into small weak tribes, thej recover their
audacity, and exercise their kidnapping propensities
unchecked. The accounts which the Doctor brings
from that new region are most deplorable. He was
an unwilling spectator of a horrible deed — a massacre
committed on the inhabitants of a populous district who
had assembled in the market-place on the banks of the
Lualaba, as they had been accustomed to do for ages.
It seems that tlie Waman^'uema are very fond of mar-
keting, believing it to be the summum bonum of human
enjoyment. They find endless pleasure in chaffer-
ing with might and main for the least mite of their
currency — the last bead ; and when they gain the point
to which their peculiar talents are devoted, they feci iu-
tenselj' happy. The women are excessively fond of this
marketing, and, as they are very beautiful, the market-
place must possess considerable attractions for the male
sex. It was on such a day, amidst such a scene, that
Tagamoyo, a half-caste Arab, with his armed slave
escort, commenced an indiscriminate massacre by firing
volley after volley into the dense mass of human beings.
It is supposed that there were about 2,000 present, and
at the first sound of the firing these poor people all
made a rush for their canoes. In the fearful hurry to
avoid being shot, the canoes were paddled away by the
first fortunate few who got possession of them ; those
tliat were not so fortunate sprang into the deep waters
of the Lualaba, and though many of them became an
easy prey to the voracious crocodiles which swarmed to
the scene, the majority received their deaths from the
bullets of the merciless Tagamoyo and his villanous
band. The Doctor believes, as do the Arabs them-
selves, that about 400 people, mostly women and
children, lost their lives, while many more were made
464
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
slaves. This outrage is onlj one of many such he has
unwillingly witnessed, and he is utterly unahle to
describe the feelings of loathing he feels for the inhu-
man perpetrators. Slaves from Manyuema command a '
higher price than those of any other country, becaust
of their fine forms and general docility. The women,
the Doctor said repeatedly, are remarkably pretty crea-
tures, and have nothing, except the hair, in common
with the negroes of the West Coast. They are of verv
light color, have fine noses, well-cut and not over-full
* lij)s, while the prognathous jaw is uncommon. These
women are eagerly sought after as wives by the half-
castes of the East Coast, and even the pure Omani
Arabs do not disdain to take them in marriage. To
the north of Mauj^uema, Livingstone came to a light-
complexioned race, of the color of Portuguese, or our
own Louisiana quadroons, who are very fine people,
and singularly remarkable for commercial " 'cuteness "
and sagacity. The women are expert divers for oysters,
which are found in great abundance in the Lualaba.
Eua, at a place called Katanga, is rich in copper. The
copper-mines of this place have been worked for ages.
In the bed of a stream, gold has been found, washed
do^vn in pencil-shaped pieces or in particles as large as
split peas. Two Arabs have gone thither to prospect
for this metal ; but, as tliey are ignorant of the art of
gulch-mining, it is scarcely possible that they will
succeed. From these highly-important and interesting
discoveries. Dr. Livingstone was turned back, when
almost on the threshold of success, by the positive
refusal of his men to accompany him further. They
were afraid to go on unless accompanied by a large force
of men ; and, as these were not procurable in Manyuema,
the Doctor reluctantly turned his face towards Ujiji.
Nov. 1871.] INTEECOUnSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
465
It was a long and weary road back. The journey
had now no interest for him. He had travelled the road
before when going westward, full of high hopes and
aspirations, impatient to reach the goal which promised
him rest from his labors — now, returning unsuccessful,
baffled, and thwarted, when almost in sight of the end,
and having to travel the same path back on foot, with
disappointed expectations and defeated hopes preying
on his mind, no wonder that the old brave spirit
almost succumbed, and the strong constitution almost
went to wreck.
Livingstone arrived at Ujiji, October 16th, almost at
death's door. On the way he had been trying to cheer
himself up, since he had found it impossible to contend
against the obstinacy of his men, with, " It won't take
long ; five or six months more ; it matters not since it
cannot be helped. I have got my goods in Ujiji, and
can hire other people, and make a new start again."
These are the words and hopes by which he tried to
delude himself into the idea that all would be right yet ;
but imagine the shock he must have suffered, when he
found that the man to whom was entrusted his goods
for safe keeping had sold every bale for ivory.
The evenin_g of the day Livingstone had returned to
Ujiji, Susi and Chuma, two of his most faitliful men,
were seen crying bitterly. The Doctor asked of tliem
what ailed them, and was then 'informed, for tlie first
time, of the evil tidings that awaited him.
Said they, " All our things are sold, sir ; Sherif has
sold everything for ivory."
Later in the evening, Sherif came to see him, and
shamelessly offered his liand, but Livingstone re])ulsed
him, saying he could not shake hands with a, thief. As
an excuse, Sherif said he had divined on the Koran,
2 H
466
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
and tliat this had told him the Hakim (Arabic for
Doctor) was dead.
Livingstone was now destitute ; he had just enough
to keep him and his men aHve for about a month, when
he would be forced to beg from the Arabs.
The Doctor further stated, that when Speke gives
the altitude of the Taiiganika at only 1,800 feet above
the sea, Speke must have fallen into that error by a
frequent writing of the Anno Domini, a mere slip of
the pen ; for the altitude, as he makes it out, is 2,800
feet by boiling point, and a little over 3,000 feet by
barometer.
The Doctor's complaints were many because slaves
were sent to him, in charge of goods, after he had so often
implored the people at Zanzibar to send him freemen.
A very little eifort on the part of those entrusted with the
despatch of supplies to him might have enabled them
to procure good and faithful freemen ; but if they
contented themselves, upon the receipt of a letter from
Dr. Livingstone, with sending to Ludha Damji for
men, it is no longer a matter of wonder that dishonest
and incapable slaves were sent forward. It is no new
fact that the Doctor has discovered when he states that
a negro freeman is a hundred times mo;:e capable and
trustworthy than a slave. Centuries ago Eumaeus, tho
herdsman, said to Ulysses —
" Jove fixed it certain, that whatever day
Makes man a slave, takes half his worth away."
Dr. Livingstone states that he has repeatedly enjoined
on Dr. Kirk not to send him slaves. None knew better
how trustless they were ; and one can conceive — each
time he was thwarted and baffled by these incapables —
how hopeless his mission would seem to him. It must
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 467
be for ever a matter of regret to the friends of both
gentlemen that Dr. Livingstone's entreaties on this
subject were not better understood.
There is one point, also, on which I wish to make
some observations, and that is, on the "doctoring" of
Livingstone's despatches. If a traveller in Central
Africa discovers anything, whether it be a lake, moun-
tain, plain, or river, and arrives at some conclusions
respecting his discovery, his reasons, above all others,
should have greatest weight. Often the reasons are
manifold — too many, at least, to be written in a despatch
— and he is compelled, for lack of space, to withhold them,
until such time as he can embody them in a book. In
such a case, it must be obvious to all, that easy-chaiv
geographers, in the absence of accurate data, cannot
improve upon the despatch of the original discoverer
and explorer ; and no opinions, advanced with the view
of disproving the fact, should justify readers in attaching
weight or importance to them.
Livingstone has refrained from communicating with
the Royal Geographical Society as a body ; but he wrote
to his friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, and, whatever
was contained in the lengthy letters, the President of
the Society would be justified in laying them — as he
was expected to do — before the august scientific body of
which he was chief. But, as Livingstone has related
to me, and as he has written to other friends, the rejxsou
that he has refrained from giving detailed disclosures is
his fear that his despatches maybe subjected to captions
emendations, to suit pet theories — many of the critics
being oblivious of the fiict that what he .relates ho
4GS
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
has been permitted to know only after persevering
exploration.
It is a lamentable thing, truly, that discoverers
may not utter ■ what they know to be indisputable
truths, without being supposed to belong to a partisan
clique to unsettle the pet theories of geographers at
home, or without being accused of " distorting well-
known facts." If the " learned Mr. Cooley " has drawn
from the hearsay of an Arab the outlines of a large
lake which occupies the whole of Central Africa, em-
bracing the several lakes of Nyassa, Tanganika, and
the N'Yanza, why should he not admit at once that he
is in error, when Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Grant,
"Wakefield, New, Roscher, Vonderdecken, and Baker,
prove that there are several lakes, far and wide apart,
bearing different names ? There is very little extra
labor in sketching six lakes more than there is in the
outlining of one large one. And the testimony of such
an array of travellers, surely, ought to have greater
weight than that of one Arab. Yet Mr. Cooley accuses
me of deafness, or misapprehension, when I state that
the Lake Tanganika is a separate body of water by
itself ; and he has been angry with Captain Burton ever
since his discovery of that lake. With all his erudition
on geographical matters, he yet lacks the nioi al courage
of confessing himself in error. But Mr. Cooley is only a
type of a small body of geographers ; this Cooleyism
— despite large experience, erudition, and high faculties
— evidently is contagious; for Mr. F. Galton, with a
wonderful suavity of manner, and an elongated smile,
called my defence of the explorer " a sensational story ;"
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE.
4G9
while Dr. Beke, with all the persistence of a man with
a hobby, emphatically declared that Livingstone had
NOT discovered the sources of the Nile, This emphatic
declaration of a hastily-formed opinion cannot, surely,
be anything but deplorable fatuity on the part of
Dr. Beke. Neither of the three gentlemen whose
names I have mentioned are entitled to more credence
than tlie great explorer, who has written his notes
on this point in lat. S. 4° and long. E. 25° in Central
Africa.
"Well, Doctor Livingstone, despising this Cooleyism,
which means obstinacy, intolerance, and narrow-minded-
ness, declares he will keep his notes to himself ; and
indeed, in my humble opinion, he has done very right.
The Geographical Society was instituted to disseminate
and promote the knowledge of the true geography
of all countries. If the Society were leavened with
this Cooleyism, and resolutely closed its ears against
the revelations of explorers, how could it ever attain the
object for which it was constituted and incorporated ?
Would such conduct be encouraging to explorers ? If
the members allowed themselves to be swayed by petty
jealousies, jjet fiincies, crude and impossible theories,
Mould men go and expend thousands of dollars to the
enlightenment of the world respecting the mysterious
interior of Africa ?
I have advanced no opinions of my own respecting
anything I have not seen, :is I am not ambitious of
being vilified muvQ than I have been already. I am,
unfortunately, under the ban of the displeasure of some
geographers, because, unconsciously, I have performed
470
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
what they desired to have had done by one of their
own number.
I beheved — and so, indeed, did all the world — that
their great Associate was an object of concern to them ;
— they were anxious to know — so they said — if David
Livingstone was alive. This anxiety was shared by
Americans ; and an American newspaper proprietor
suddenly undertook to despatch a man on a mission of
search and relief to Central Africa. . The man selected
happened to be successful, returned back to civilisation,
and proclaimed that Livingstone, the great explorer, was
alive. Whereupon the news was pooh-poohed ! The
President of the Royal Geographical Society declared
it to be nonsense ; the Vice-President declared it to be
a sensational story ; Cooleyism declared it to be deaf-
ness and misapprehension ; and a Beke declared that
the theory of Dr. Livingstone was impossible. Nearly
all England, and a. great part of America, was plunged
into perplexity ; but, gradually, proofs were brought
forward of the great fact, that Livingstone was not
only alive, but that he wrote every letter which pur-
ported to have been written by him, without a single
phrase, suggestion, or interpolation from any other
hand. Then began attacks on the chaiacter of the
unfortunate newspaper correspondent. One individual
called him a " charlatan, and a liar ;" another insinuated
that he was anything but what he professed to be ;
while others thouglit that the much-abused journalist
had stolen the despatches from a messenger ; and much
else of everything that was vile and unjust.
Permit the humble newspaper correspondent to ask
*
Nov. 1871.] INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. 471
all geograpliers, editors, reviewers, critics, and scandal-
mongers, if you had continued your debating, theorising
and discussing, wrangling, guessing and speculating-
— good God ! gentlemen, between you all, whither
had David Livingstone, the illustrious explorer, gone
to, if some one had not conveyed to him comfort,
health, and aid ?
Little did Dr. Livingstone think that his humble
friend would be rewarded by attacks such as these, and
little thought I that my humble efforts, which had
been carried out with singleness of purpose and uncon-
sciousness of the possibility of envy or malice, would
have been so received. In my innocence I thought I
had only to tell my story honestly and truly,
and that it would be at once received by all with-
out cavil and without doubt, and it is not unnatural
that I should feel aggrieved at attacks upon my
honour and my veracity in quarters where I had
least expected it, and where I had most hoped for a
different reception.
The Doctor entertained grave doubts as to the
propriety of sending any despatches to the Royal
Geographical Society, without a guaranty that the infor-
mation conveyed to it would not be made the subj(>ct
of pecuniary profit. For the private information of the
members he was very willing to relate what he knew;
but he was unwilling that his discoveries should be at
the beck and call of any member who had a desire to
enrich himself at his expense. He also complained
that a certain member had unscrupulously made use
of a rough sketch-map he had sent to the Society,
472
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to illustrate bis route ; and, on Livingstone's return,
when he declared his wish to have a correct map
made, according to observations verified and corrected
by the Cape of Good Hope Observatory, this member
turned round, and informed him how he had been
working at that map five or six months, and he could
not think of making a new one unless he was paid some-
thing like £200 for his trouble. Such facts as these Dr.
Livingstone complains of. Of the Eoyal Greographical
Society, as a body, he entertains the highest respect,
and thinks with pride of his relations with them. He
complains only against the few members whom he
supposes to have " doctored "'his despatches, icQ-matized
and theorized agclinst him, and altered his maps, to
suit their own idiopatliies and Cooleyistic fancies. But
though these members are few, they are too influential
to be passed by without notice.
We passed several happy days at Ujiji, and it was
time we were now preparing for our cruise on the
Tanganika. Livingstone was improving every day
under the different diet which my cook furnished him.
I could give him no such suppers as that which Jupiter
and Mercury received at the cottage of Baucis and
Philemon. We had no berries of chaste Minerva,
pickled cherries, endive, radishes, dried figs, dates,
fragrant apples, and grapes ; but we had cheese, and
butter which I made myself, new-laid eggs, chickens,
roast mutton, fish from the lake, rich curds and cream,
wine from the Guinea palm, egg-plants, cucumbers,
sweet potatoes, pea-nuts, and beans, white honey liom
Ukaranga, luscious singwe — a plum-like fruit — from the
Nov. 1871.] IXTEBCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE. ' 473
forests of Ujiji, and corn scones and dampers, in place
of wheaten bread.
During the noontide heats we sat under our veranda
discussing our various projects, and in the early morning
and evening vre sought the shores of the lake — prome-
nading up and down tlie beach to breathe the cool
breezes which rulBed tlie surface of the water, and
rolled the unquiet surf far up on the smooth and
whitened shore.
It was the dry season, aud we had most lovely
weather ; the temperature never was over 80° in the
shade.
The market-place overlooking the broad silver water
afforded us amusement and instruction. Representatives
of most of the tribes dwelling near the lake were daily
found there. There were the agricultural and pastoral
"Wajiji, with their flocks and herds ; there were the
fishermen from Ukaranga and Kaole, from beyond
Baiigwe, and even from Urundi, with their whitebait,
which they called dogara^ the silurus, the perch, and othfer
fish ; there were the palm-oil merchants, principally
from Ujiji and Urundi, with great five-gallon pots full
of roildish oil, of the consistency of butter ; there were
the salt merchants from the salt-plains of Uviiiza and
Uhha ; there were the ivory merchants from Uvira
and Usowa ; there were the canoe-makers from Ugoma
and Urundi ; there were the cheap-Jack pedlers from
Zanzibar, selling flimsy prints, and brokers exchanging
blue mutunda beads for sami-sami, and sungomazzi, and
sofi. The sofi beads are like pieces of thick clay-pipe stem
about half an inch long, and are in great demand here.
474 ' EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Here were found Waguliha, Wamanyuema, "Wagoma,
Wavira, Wasige, Warundi, Wajiji, Waha, Wavinza,
Wasowa, Wangwana, Wakawendi, Arabs, and Wasa-
wahili, engaged in noisy chaffer and barter. Bare-
headed, and almost barebodied, the youths made love to
the dark-skinned and woolly-headed Pbyllises, who
knew not how to blush at the ardent gaze of love, as
their white sisters; old matrons gossiped, as the old
women do everywhere ; the children played, and
laughed, and struggled, as children of our own lands ;
and the old men, leaning on their spears or bows, were
just as garrulous in the Place de Ujiji as the aged
elders of other climes.
STANLF.VS SI |tVe\
l.AKK TAXCA.n'i'k a" '
/
VIEW ON LAKE TANGASIKA.
CHAPTER XIII.
OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.
"I distinctly deny that 'any misleading by my instructions from
the Royal Geographical Society as to the position of tho White Nile '
made me unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining tho
direction of tho Rusizi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach
it, and we failed." — Burton's Zanzibar.
" The universal testimony of the natives to tho Rusizi River being
an influent is tho most conclusive argument that it does run out of
the lake." — Speke.
" I therefore claim for Lake Tanganika the honour of being tlie
SoDTHEiiNMosT Resebvoib OF THE NiLE, uutil somo moro positivo
evidence, by actual observation, shall otherwise determine it." —
Findlay, R.G.S.
Had Livingstone anfl myself, after making up our
minds to visit the northern head of tho Lake Tanganika,
been compelled b}' the absurd demands or fears of a
crew of Wajiji to return to Unyanyembe without having
476
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
resolved the problem of the Rusizi River, we had surely
deserved to be greeted by everybody at home with
a universal giggling and cackling. But Capt. Burton's
failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji, and that ridi-
culous savage chief Kannena, had warned us of the
negative assistance we could expect from such people
for the solution of a geographical problem. We had
enough good sailors with ns, who were entirely under
our commands. Could we but procure the loan of a
canoe, we thought all might be well.
Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once
generously permitted us to use his canoe for any service
lor which we might require it. After engaging two
Wajiji guides at two doti each, we prepared to sail
from the port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my
entrance into Ujiji.
I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and
I undertook the exploration of the northern half of the
Tanfranika and the River Rusizi, about which so much
had been said and written.
Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone
had not definitely made up his mind which course
he should take, as his position was truly deplorable.
His servants consisted of Susi, Chumah, Hamoydah,
Gardner, and Halimah, the female cook and wife of
Hamoydah ; to these was added Kaif-IIalek, the man
whom I compelled to follow me from Unyanyembe to
deliver the Livingstone letters to his master.
Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these
few men, and the few table-cloths and beads that re-
mained to him from the store squandered by the imbe-
cile Sherif? This was a puzzling question. Had Dr.
Livingstone been in good health, his usual hardihood
and indomitable spirit had answered it in a summary
Nov. 1871.] OUB CBUISE ON TEE TANGANIKA. 477
way. He might have borrowed some cloth from Sayd
bin Majid at an exorbitant price, sufficient to bring
him to Unyanyembe and the sea-coast. But how long
would he have been compelled to sit down at Ujiji,
waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be
at Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping
day after day that the war would end — hoping week
after week to hear that his goods were coming ? Who
knows how long his weak health had borne up against
the several disappointments to which he would be
subjected ?
Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Living-
stone's vast experience as a traveller, I made bold to
suggest the following courses to him, either of which
he could adopt :
1st. To go home, and take the rest he so well de-
served, and, as he appeared then, to be so much in
need of.
2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods,
and enlist pagazis sufficient to enable him to travel
anywhere, either to Manyuema or Rua, and settle the
Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of
doing.
3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan,
enlist men, and try to join Sir Samuel Baker, either
by going to Muanza, and sailing through Ukerewe or
Victoria N'Yanza in my boats — which I should put up
— to Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by Mirambo
and Swaruru of Usui, who would rob him if he took
the usual caravan road to Uganda ; thence from Mtesa
to Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, where he would of course
hear of the great white man who was said to be with a
large force of men at Gondokoro.
4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan,
478
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
enlist men, and return to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema
by way of Uguhlia.
5tli. To proceed by way of tbe Rnsizi through
Ruanda, and so on to Itara, Unyoro, and Baker.
For either course, whichever he thought most ex-
pedient, I and my men would assist him as escort and
carriers, to the best of our ability. If he should elect to
go home, I informed him I should be proud to escort
him, and consider myself subject to his commands —
travelling only when he desired, and camping only
when he gave the word,
6th. The last .course which I suggested to him, was
to permit me to escort him to Unyanyembe, where
he could receive his own goods, and where I could
deliver up to him a large supply ol first-class cloth and
beads, guns and ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing,
boats, tents, &c., and where he could rest in a comfort-
able house, while I would hurry down to the coast,
organize a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty
faithful men, well armed, by whom I could send an
additional supply of needful luxuries in the shape of
creature comforts.
After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the
last course, as it appeared to him to be the most feasible
one, and the best, though he did not hesitate to com-
ment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at
Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and
vexation, and weary marching of hundreds of miles.
Our ship — though nothing more than a cranky canoe
hollowed out of the noble mvule tree in Ugoma— was
an African Argo, bound on a nobler enterprise than its
famous Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no
mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps
to discover a highway for commerce which should
Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TAXGANIKA. 479
bring tlie ships of the Nile up to Ujiji, Usowa, and far
Marungu. We did not know what T^e might discover
on our voyage to the northern head of the Tanganika ;
we supposed that we should find the Rusizi to be an
effluent of the Tano:anika, flowino; down to the Albert
or the Victoria N'Yanza. We were told by natives
and Arabs that the Rusizi ran out of the lake.
Sayd bin ^lajid had stated that his canoe would
carry twenty-five men, and 3,500 lbs. of ivory. Acting
upon this information, we embarked twenty-five men,
several of whom had stored away bags of salt for the
purposes of trade with the natives ; hut upon pushing
off from the shore near Ujiji, we discovered the boat
was too heavily laden, and was down to the gunwale.
Returning in-shore, we disembarked six men, and
unloaded the bags of salt, which left us with sixteen
rowers, the Arab boy Selim, Ferajji the cook, and the
two Wajiji guides.
Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again
pushed off, and steered her head for Bangwe Island,
which was distant four or five miles from the Bunder
of Ujiji. While passing this island the guides informed
us that the Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on it during .
an incursion of the Watuta — which took place some
years ago — when they came and invaded Ujiji, and mas-
sacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refiiffe
on the island were the only persons who escaped the fire
and sword with which the Watuta had visited Ujiji.
After passing the island and following the various
bends and indentations of the shore, we came in sight
of the magnificent bay of Kigoma, which strikes one
at once as being an excellent harbor from the variable
winds which blow over the Tanganika. About 10 a.m.
we drew in towards the village of Kigoma, as the east
480
EOW I FOUND LIVING STONBt,
■wind was then rising, and threatened to drive ns to
sea. With those travelling parties who are not in
much hurry Kigoma is always the first port for canoes
bound north from Ujiji. The next morning at dawn
we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked, and drank
coffee, and set off northward again.
The lake was quite calm ; its waters, of a dark-green
color, reflected the serene blue sky above. The
hippopotami came up to breathe in alarmingly close
proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads
again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek with us.
Arriving opposite the high wooded hills of Bemba, and
being a mile from shore, we thought it a good oppor-
tunity to sound the depth of the water, whose color
seemed to indicate great depth. We found thirty-five
fathoms at this place.
Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore,
with a range of hills, beautifully wooded and clothed
with green grass, sloping abruptly, almost precipitously,
into the depths of the fresh-water sea, towering imme-
diately above us, and as we rounded the several capes
or points, roused high expectations of some new wonder,
or some exquisite picture being revealed as the deep
folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were we dis-
appointed. The wooded hills, with a wealth of boscage
of beautiful trees, many of which were in bloom, and
crowned with floral glory, exhaling an indescribably
sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied contour
— one pyramidal, another a truncated cone ; one table-
topped, another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church ;
one a glorious heave with an even outline, another
jagged and savage — interested us considerably ; and the
pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head of the
Eeveralbays, evoked many an exclamation of admiration.
Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIEA.
481
It was the most natural thing in the world that I should
feel deepest admiration for these successive pictures of
quiet scenic beauty, but the Doctor had 'quite as much to
say about them as I had myself, though, as one might
imagine, satiated with pictures of this kind far more
beautiful — far more wonderful — he should long ago
have expended all his powers of admiring scenes in
nature.
From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to com-
pare to them — none of these fishing settlements under
the shade of a grove of palms and plantains, banians
and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the right and left
of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking
down upon a quiet bay, whose calm waters at the early
morn reflected the beauties of the hills which sheltered
them from the rough the boisterous tempests that so
often blew without.
The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably
situated. The lake affords them all the fish' they re-
quire, more than enougli to eat, and the industrious a
great deal to sell. The steep slopes of the hills,
cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of
grain, such as dourra and Indian corn, besides cassava,
ground-nuts or pea-nuts, and sweet potatoes. The
palm trees afford oil, and the plantains an abundance
of delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply
them with the tall shapely trees from which they cut
out their canoes. Nature has supplied them bountifully
with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It
is while looking at what seems both externally and
internally complete and perfect happiness that the
thought occurs — how must these people sigh, when
driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes
between the lake country and the sea-coast, for such
2 I
482
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
homes as these! — those unfortunates who, bought by
the Arabs for a couple of doti, are taken away to
Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work !
As we drew ' near Niasanga, our second camp, the
comparison between the noble array of picturesque hills
and receding coves, with their pastoral and agricultural
scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great.
A few minutes, before we hauled our canoe ashore,
two little incidents occurred. I shot an enormous dog-
faced monkey, wliich measured from nose to end of tail
4 feet 9 inches; the face was 8^ inches long, its body
weighed about 100 lbs. It had no mane or tuft at end
of tail, but the body was covered with long wiry hair.
Numbers of these specimens were seen, as well as of the
active cat-headed and long-tailed smaller ones. The
other was the sight of a large lizard, about 2^ feet long,
which waddled into cover before we had well noticed
it. The Doctor thought it the Monitor terrestris.
We encamped under a banian tree ; our surroundings
were the now light-grey waters of the Tanganika, an
ampliitheatral range of hills, and the village of Niasanga,
situated at the mouth of the rivulet Niasanga, with its
grove of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain
arid cassava fields. Near our tent were about half-a-
dozen canoes, large and small, belonging to the villagers.
Our tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh
water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant
Ugoma and Ukaramba, and the Island of Muzimu,
whose ridges appeared of a deep-blue color. At our
feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles, borne
upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf.
A seaich amongst these would reveal to us the
malcn'al of the mountain heaps which rose behind and
on our right and left; there was scliist, conglomerate
Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.
483
sandstone, a hard white clay, an ochreisli clay containing
much iron, polished quartz, &c. Looking out of our
tent, we could see a line on each side of us of thick tall
reeds, which formed something like a hedge between
the beach and the cultivated area around Niasanga.
Among birds seen here, the most noted were the merry
wagtails, which are regarded as good omens and
messengers of peace by the natives, and any harm done
unto them is quickly resented, and is fineable. Except
to the mischievously inclined, they offer no inducement
to commit violence. On landing, they flew to meet us,
balancing themselves in the air in front, within easy
reach of our hands. Tlie other birds were crows,
turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and ibis
religiosa, flocks of whydah birds, geese, darters, paddy
birds, kites, and eagles.
At this place the Doctor suffered from diarrhoea — it
is his only weak point, he says ; and, as I afterwards '
found, it is a frequent complaint with him. Whatever
disturbed his mind, or any irregularity in eating, was
sure to end in diarrhoea. "With me it was quite the
reverse ; any exposure to malaria, encamping near a
fetid swamp, or mind disturbed, was sure to produce
excessive costiveness, and perhaps an attack of ague.
The third day of our journey on the Tanganika
brought us to Zassi River and village, after a four
hours' pull. Along the line of road the mountains
rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of the lake.
I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and
animated at every step, and thought it by far lovelier
than anything seen near Lake George or on the
Hudson. The cosy nooks at the head of the many
small bays constitute most admirable pictures, filled in
as they are with the ever-beautiful feathery palms and
2 I 2
484
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
broad green plantain fronds. These nooks have all
been taken possession of by fishermen, and their
conically beehive-shaped hnts always peep from under
the frondage. The shores are tlms extremely populous ;
every terrace, small plateau, and bit of level ground
is occupied.
Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills
which rise near by, and are called Kirassa. Opposite to
these, at the distance of about a mile from shore, we
sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on the previous
day. Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole
length of my line, 115 fathoms, and obtained no
bottom. In drawing it up again the line parted, and
I lost, the lead, with three-fourths of the line. The
Doctor stated, apropos of this, that he had sounded
opposite the lofty Kabogo, south of IJjiji, and obtained
the great depth of 300 fathoms. He also lost his lead
and 100 fathoms of his line, but he had nearly 900
fathoms left, and this was in the canoe. We hoped
to use this long sounding line in going across from the
eastern to the western shore.
On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy
island in Urundi. We had passed the boundary line
between Ujiji and Urundi half-an-hour before arriving
at N3'abigma. The Mshala River is considered by both
nations to be the proper divisional line ; though there
are parties of Warundi who have emigrated beyond the
frontier into Ujiji ; for instance, the Mutware and
villagers of populous Kagunga, distant an hour north
from Zassi. There are also several small parties of
Wajiji, who have taken advantage of the fine lands in
the deltas of the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Luaba
Rivers, the two first of which enter the Tanganika in
this" bay, near the head of which Nyabigma is situated.
Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON TEE TANGANIKA.
485-
From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep
curve in the great mouutain range which stretches
from Cape Kazinga and terminates at Cape Kasofu,
may be obtained — a distance of twenty or twenty- five
miles. It is a most imposing scene, this great humpy,
ri.lgy, and irregular line of mountains. Deep ravines
and chasms afford outlets to the numerous streams and
rivers which take their rise in the background ; the
pale fleecy ether almost always shrouds its summit.
From its base extends a broad alluvial plain, rich
beyond description, teeming with palms and plantains,
and umbrageous trees. Villages are seen in clusters
everywhere. Into this alluvial plain run the Luaba,
or Ruaba River, on the north side of Cape Kitunda, aifd
the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala Rivers, on the
south side of the cape. All the deltas of rivers empty-
ing into the Tanganika are hedged in on all sides
with a thick growth of matete, a gigantic species of
grass, and papyrus. In some deltas, as that of Luaba
and Kasokwe, morasses have been formed, in which the
matete and papyrus jungle is impenetrable. In the
depths of them are quiet and deep pools, frequented by
various aquatic birds, isuch as geese, ducks, snipes,
widgeons, kingfishers and ibis, cranes and storks, and
pelicans. To reach their haunts is, however, a work of
great difficulty \o the sportsman in quest of game ; a
work often attended with great danger, from the
treacherous nature of these morasses, as well as from
the dreadful attacks of fever which, in these regions,
invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes.
At Nyabigma we prepared, by distributing ten rounds
of anuaunition to each of our men, for a tussle wilii the
Warundi of two stages ahead, should they invite it by a
too forward exhibition of their prejudice to strangers.
486
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
At dawn, of the fifth day we quitted the haven of
Nyabigma Island, and in less than an hour had arrived
off Cape Kilunda. This cape is a low platform of con-
glomerate sandstone, ext^ding for about eight miles
from the base of the great mountain curve which gives
birth to the Luaba and its sister streams. Crossing the
deep bay, at the head of which is the delta of the Luaba,
we came to Cape Kasofu. Tillages are numerous in this
vicinity. From hence we obtained a view of a series
of points or capes, Kigongo, Katunga, and Buguluka,
all of which we passed before coming to a halt at the
pretty position of Mukungu.
At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we
vere asked for honga, or tribute. The cloth and
beads upon which we subsisted during our lake voyage
were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder of .the two,
more experienced, and the " big man " of the party, had
the charge of satisfying all such demands. Many and many
a time had I gone through the tedious and soul-wearying
task of settling the honga, and I was quite curious to
see how the great traveller would perform the work.
The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of
Mukungu asked for two and a half doti. This was the
extent of tlie demand, which he made known to us a
little after dark. The Doctor asked if nothing had
been brought, to us. He was answered, "No, it was
too late to get anything now ; but, if we paid the
honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us some-
thing when we came back." Livingstone, upon hearing
this, smiled, and tlie Mateko being then and there in
front of him, he said to him, " Well, if you can't get us
anytliing now, and intend to give us something when we
return, we had bettc-r keep the honga until then." The
Mateko was rather taken aback at this, and demurred
Nov. 1871.] OUIl CBUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.
487
to any such proposition. Seeing that he was dis-
satisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep — one httle
sheep — for our stomachs were nearly empty, having
been waiting more than half a day for it. The appeal
was successful, for the old man hastened, and brought
us a lamb and a three-gallon pot of sweet but strong
"kogga, or palm toddy, and in return the Doctor gave
him two and a half doti of cloth. The lamb was killed,
and, our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us ;
but, alas, - for the effects of zogga, or palm toddy !
Susi, the invaluable adjunct of Dr. Livingstone, and
Bombay, the headman of my caravan, were the two
charged with watching the canoe ; but, having imbibed
too freely of this intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily,
and in the morning the Doctor and I had to regret the
loss of several valuable and indispensable tilings ; among
which may be mentioned the Doctor's 900-fathom
sounding-line, 500 rounds of pin, rim, and central-fire
cartridges for my arms, and ninety musket bullets,
also belonging to me. Besides these, which were indis-
pensa,ble in hostile Warundi, a large bag of flour and
the Doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen.
This was the third time that my reliance in Bombay's
trustworthiness resulted in a great loss to'me, and for
the ninety-ninth time I had to regret bitterly having
placed such entire confidence in Speke's and Grant's
loud commendation of him. It was only the natural
cowardice of ignorant thieves that prevented tlje
savages from taking the boat and its entire contents,
together witlrBombay and Susi as slaves. I can well
imagine the joyful surprise which must have been called
forth at the sight and exquisite taste of the Doctor's
sugar, and the wonder with which they must have
regarded the strange ammunition of the Wasungu. It
488
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
is to be sincerely hoped they did not hurt themselves
with the explosive bullets and rim cartridges through
any ignorance of the nature of their deadly contents ;
in which case the box and its contents would prove a
very Pandora's casket.
Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day
at the usual hour on our watery journey. We coasted
close to the several low headlands formed by the rivers
Kigwena, Kikumu, and Kisunwe ; and when any bay
promised to be interesting steered the canoe according
to its indentations. While travelling on the water —
each day brought forth similar scenes— on our right
rose the mountains of Urundi, now and then disclosing
the ravines through which the several rivers and streams
issued into the great lake ; at their base were the
alluvial plains, where flourished the oil palm and grate-
ful plantain, while scores of villages were grouped under
their shade. Now and then we passed long narrow
strips of pebbly or sandy beach, whereon markets were
improvised for selling fish and the staple products of
the respective communities. Then we passed broad
swampy morasses, formed by the numerous streams
which the mountains discharged, where the matete and
papyrus flourished. Now the mountains approached to
the water ; their sides descending abruptly to the
water's edge, then ihey receded into deep folds, at the
base of which was sure to be seen an alluvial plain
fjom one to eight miles broad. Almost constantly
we observed canoes being punted vigorously close to
the surf, in fearless defiance of a catastrophe, such as
a capsize and gobbling-up by voracious crocodiles.
Sometimes we sighted a canoe a short distance ahead
of us ; whereupon our men, with song and chorus,
would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake
Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON TEE TANGANIKA. ^ 489
it. Upon observing our efforts, the natives would
bend themselves to their tasks, and paddling standing
and stark naked, give us ample opportunities for study-
ing at our leisure comparative anatomy. Or we saw-a
group of fisherm'en lazily reclining in puris naturalibus
on the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes
as they passed their neighbourhood ; then we passed a
flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting quietly in their
huts, busily plying the rod and hook, or casting their
nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets
close in shore for a haul ; or children sporting fearlessly
in the water, with their mothers looking on approvingly
from under the shade of a tree, from which I infer that
there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the
neighbourhood of the large rivers.
After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed
by the Kisunwe River, we c;ime in view of Murembwe
Cape, distant about four or five miles : the intervening
ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly beach.
Close to the beach are scores of villages, while the
crowded shore indicates the populousness of tlie place
beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe and
Murembwe, is a cluster of villages called Bikari,
which has a Mutware who is in the habit of taking
honga. As we were rendered unable to cope for
any length of time with any mischievously inclined
community, all villages having a bad reputation with
the Wajiji were avoided by us. But even the Wajiji
guides were sometimes mistaken, and led us more than
once into dangerous places. The guides evidently
had no ol^jections to halt at Bikari, as it was the
second camp from Mukungu ; because with them
a halt in the cool shade of plantains was infinitely
preferable to sitting like carved pieces of wood in a
490 ^ BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
cranky canoe. But before tlaey stated their objections
and preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud
voice to come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance
of the great Wami if we did not halt. As the voices
were anything but siren-like, we obstinately refused to
accede to the request. Finding threats of no avail,
they had recourse to stones, and, accordingly, flung
them at us in a most hearty manner. As one came
within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be
sent in return in close proximity to their feet ; but
Livingstone, though he said nothing, yet showed
plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this.
As these demonstrations of hostility were anything but
welcome, and as we saw signs of it almost every time
we came opposite to a village, we kept on our way
until we came to Murembwe Point, which, being a.
delta of a river of the same name, was well protected
by a breadth of thorny jungle, spiky cane, and a thick
growth of reed and papyrus, from which the boldest
Mrundi might well shrink, especially if he called to
mind that beyond this inhospitable swamp were the
guns of the strangers his like had so rudely chal-
lenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a
limited area of clean sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-
ready cook, lit his fire, and manufactured for us a
supply of most delicious Mocha coffee. Despite the
dangers which still beset us, we were quite happy, and
seasoned our meal with a little moral philosophy, which
lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior beings
to the pagans by whom we were surrounded — upon
whom we now looked down, under the influence of Mocha
coffee and moral philosophy, witli calm contempt, not
unmixed with a certain amount of compassion. The
Poctor related some experiences he had had among
Nov. 1871.] OUB CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 491
people of similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe
them, with the wisdom of a man of ripe experiences, to
the unwise conduct of the Arabs and half-castes ; in
this opinion I unreservedly concur.
From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee
and ended our discourse on ethics, we proceeded on our
voyage, steering for Cape Sentakeyi, which, though it
was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before
dark. The Wangwana pulled with right good will, but
ten hours went by, and night was drawing near, and we
were still far from Sentakeyi. As it was a fine moon-
light night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous
position in which we might find ourselves, they con-
sented to pull an hour or two more. About 8 p.m., we
pulled in shore for a deserted spot — a clean shelf of sand,
about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay
bank rose about ten or twelve feet above, while on each
side there were masses of disintegrated rock. Here
we thought, that by preserving some degree of silence,
we might escape observation, and consequent annoyance,
for a few hours, when, being rested, we might con-
tinue our journey. Our kettle was boiling for tea, and
the men had built a little fire for themselves, and had
filled their black earthen pot with water for porridge,
when our look-outs perceived dark forms creeping
towards our bivouac. Being hailed, they at once came
forward, and saluted us with tlie native " Wake."
Our guides explained that we were "Wangwana, and
intended to camp until morning, when, if they had
anything to sell, we should be glad to trade with them.
They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they
had exchanged a few words more — dining which time
we observed that they were taking mental notes of the
camp — they went away. Upon leaving, they promised
492
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to return iu the morning with food, and make friends
with us. While drinking our tea, the look-outs warned
us of the approach of a second party, which went through
the same process of saluting and observing as the first
had done. These also went away, over-exuberant, as I
thought, and were shortly succeeded by a third party,
who came and went as the others had. From all this
we inferred that the news was spreading rapidly
through the villages about, and we had noticed two
canoes passing backwards and forwards with rather more
haste than we deemed usual or necessary. We had good
cause to be suspicious; it is not customary for people
(at least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visit-
ing and saluting after dark^ under any pretence ; it is
not permitted to persons to prowl about camp after dark
without being shot at ; and this going backward and for-
ward, this ostentatious exuberance of joy at the arrival
of a small party of Wangwana, which in many parts of
Urundi would be regarded as a very common event,
was altogether very suspicious. While the Doctor and
I were arriving at the conclusion that these move-
ments were preliminary to or significant of hostility, a
fourth body, very boisterous and loud, came and visited
us. Our supper had been by this time despatched, and
we thought it high time to act. The fourth party having
gone with extravagant manifestations of delight, the
men were hurried into the canoe, and, when all were
seated, and the look-outs embarked, we quietly pushed off,
but not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding
from the darkened light that surrounded us, I called
the Doctor's attention to several dark forms ; some of
whom were crouching behind the rocks on our right,
and others scrambling over them to obtain good or
better positions ; at the same time people were approach-
Nov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON TEE TANGANIKA.
403
ing from the left of our position, in the same suspicious
wav; and directly a voice hailed us from the top of the
clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had
lately been resting. " Neatly done," cried the Doctor,
as we were shooting through the water, leaving the
discomfited would-be robbers behind us. Here, again,
my hand, was stayed from planting a couple of good
shots, as a warning to them in future from molesting
strangers, by the jnere presence of the Doctor, who, as I
thought, if it were actually necessary, would not hesitate
to give the word.
After pulling six hours more, during which we had
rounded Cape Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small
fishing village of Mugeyo, where we were permitted
to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our
journey, and about 8 a.m. arrived at the village of the
friendly Mutware of Magala. "We had pulled for
eighteen hours at a stretch, which, at the rate of two
miles and a half per hour, would make forty-five miles.
Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala, one
of the most prominent points in travelling north from
Ujiji, we found that the large island of ]\Iuzimu,
which had been in sight ever since rounding Cape
Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about south-south-
west, and that the western shore had considerably
approached to the eastern ; tlie breadth of the lake
being at this point about eight or ten miles. We had
a good view of the western highlands, which seeiyed to
be of an average height, about 3,000 feet above the
lake. Lulianga Peak, rising a little to the north of
west from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher;
and Sumburizi, a little north of Luhanga, where lived
Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the country opposite to this
part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher than the neigh-
494
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONS.
boring heights. Northward from Magala Cape the
lake streamed away between two chains of mountains ;
both meeting in a point about thirty miles north of us.
The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and pro-
found starers. They flocked around the tent door, and
most pertinaciously gazed on us, as if we were subjects
of most intense interest, but liable to sudden and
eternal departure. The Mutware came to see us late
in the afternoon, dressed with great pomp. He turned
out to be a boy whom I had noticed in the crowd of
gazers for his good looks and fine teeth, which he
showed, being addicted to laughing, continually. There
was no mistaking him, though he was now decorated
with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces, and with
heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets. Our
admiration of him was reciprocated ; and, in return for
our two doti of cloth and a fundo of samsam, he gave
a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of milk.
In our condition both were extremely acceptable. .
At Magala we hfeard of a war raging between
Mukamba, for whose country we were bound, and
Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district ; and
we were advised that, unless we intended to assist one
of these chiefs against the other, it would be better
for us to return. But, as we had started to solve the
problem of the Rusizi River, such considerations had
no weight with us.
On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade
farewell to the hospitable people of Magala, and set off
for Mukamba's country, which was in view. Soon
after passing the boundary between Urundi proper,
and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south-
west arose ; and the fearful yawing of our canoe
into the wave trough warned us from proceeding
Xov. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.
495
further ; so we turned her head for Kisuka village,
about four miles north, where Mugere, in Usige,
begins.
At Kisuka a Mgwana living with Mukamba came to
see us, and gave us details of the war between Mu-
kamba and Warumashanya, from which it seemed that
these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It is
a tame way of fighting, after all. One chief makes a
raid into the other's country, and succeeds in making
off with a herd of cattle, killing one or two men who
have been surprised. Weeks, or perhaps months elapse
before the other retaliates, and effects a capture in a
similar way, and then a balance is struck in which
neither is the gainer. Seldom do they attack each
other with courage and hearty good will, the constitu-
tion of the African being decidedly against any such
energetic warfare.
This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave
us information far more interesting, viz., about the
Rusizi. He told us positively, with the air of a man
who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted
him might well be set down as an egregious ass, that the
Rusizi River flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's
(Mtesa's) country. " Where else could it flow to ?" he
asked. The Doctor was inclined to believe it, or,
perhaps, he was more inclined to let it rest as stated until
our own eyes should confirm it. I was more inclined to
doubt, as I told the Doctor ; first, it was too good to be
true ; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon a
subject that could not possibly interest him. His
"Rarikallahs" and "Inshallahs" were far too fervid; his
answers too much in accordance with our wishes. The
Doctor laid great stress on the report of a Mgwana
he met far south, who stated that the grandfather or
496
EOW 2 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
fatlier of Rumanika, present King of Karagwali, had
thought of excavating the bed of the Kitangule River,
in order that his canoes might go to Ujiji to open a
trade. From this I imagine, coinciding as it did with
his often-expressed and present firm behef that the
waters of the Tanganika have an outlet somewhere, the
Doctor was partial to the report of the Mgwana ; but
as we proceed we shall see how all this will end.
On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours
after sunrise, we passed the broad delta of the Mugere,
a river which gives its name also to the district on the
eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had come
directly opposite the most southern of its three mouthg,
when we found quite a difference in the colour of the
water. An almost straight line, drawn east and west
from the mouth would serve well to mark off the
difference that existed between the waters. On the
south side was pure water of a light green ; on
the north side it was muddy, and the current could
be distinctly seen flowing north. Soon after passing
the first mouth we came to a second, and then a third
mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each dis-
charging sufficient water to permit our following the
line of tlie currents several rods north beyond the re-
spective mouths.
Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend dis-
closed itself, with groups of villages beyond on its
bank. These were Mukamba's, and in one of them
lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had yet never
seen a white man, and, of course, as soon as we landed
we were surrounded by a large concourse, all armed
with long spears — the only weapon visible amongst
tliem save a club-stick, and here and there' a
hatchet.
Nov. 1871.] OUn CRUISE ON THE TANQANIKA.
497
. We were shown -into a hut, which the Doctor and I
shared between us. What followed on that day I have
but a dim recollection, having been struck down by
fever — the first since leaving Unyanyembe. I dimly
recollect trying to make out what age Mukamba might
be, and noting that he was good-look !g wiihal, and
kindly-disposed towards us. And during the intervals
of agony and unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw,
Livingstone's form moving towards me, and felt, or
fancied I felt, Livingstone's hand tenderly feeliug my
hot head aud limbs. I had suffered several fevers
between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe, without anything
or anybody to reheve me of the tedious racking
headache and pain, or to illumine the dark and gloomy
prospect which must necessarily surround the bedside
of the sick and solitary traveller. But though this fever,
* having enjoyed immunity from it for three months,
was more severe than usual, I did not much regret its
occurrence, since I became the recipient of the very
tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose
companion I now found myself.
The next morning, having recovered slightly from
the fever, when Mukamba came with a present of an
ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend to the
answers which he gave to the questions about the
Ilusizi River and the head of the lake. The ever
cheerful aud enthusiastic Mgu ana was there also, and
he was not a whit abashed when, through him, the
chief told us that the Rusizi, joined by the Ruanda, or
Luanda, at a distance of two days' journey by water, or
one day by land from the head of the lake, flowed into
the lake.
Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive
and repeated assurances that the river flowed out away
2 K
498
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
towai ds Karagwah, collapsed as speedily as they were
raised.
We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti
and nine fundo of samsam, lunghio, muzurio n'zige.
The printed handkerchiefs, which I had in abundance
at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here. After
receiving his present, the chief introduced his son, a
tall youth of eighteen or thereabouts, to the Doctor, as
a would-be son of the Doctor ; but, with a good-
natured laugh, the Doctor scouted all such relationship
with him, as it was instituted only for the purpose of
drawing more cloth out of him. Mukamba took it in
good part, and did not insist on getting more.
Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's
servant, got gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal
and profuse gifts of pombe. Just at dawn next morn-
ing I was awakened by hearing several sharp, crack- *
like souTids. I listened, and I found the noise was
in our hut. It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards
midnight, had felt some one come and lie down by his
side on the same bed, and, thinking that it was me, he
had kindly made room, and laid down on the edge of
the bed. But in the morning, feeling rather cold, he
had been thorouglily awakened, and, on rising on his
elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he discovered, to
his great astonishment, that it was no other than
his black servant, Susi, who taking possession of his
blankets, and folding them about himself most
selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed. The
Doctor, with that gentleness characteristic of him,
instead of taking a rod, had contented himself with
slapping Susi on the back, saying, " Get up, Susi,
will you? You are in my bed. How dare you, sir,
get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often
Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA,
not to ? Get up. You won't ? Take that, and that,
and that." Still Susi slept and grunted ; so the slapping
continued, until even Susi's thick hide began to feel it,
and he was thoroughly awakened to the sense of his
want of devotion and sympathy for his master in the
usurping of even his master's bed. Susi looked very
much crestfallen after this expose of his infirmity before
the "little master," as I was called.
SUSI, THE SERVANT OF LIVINQSTONE.
The next day at dusk — Mukamba having come to
bid us good-bye, and requested that as soon as we
reached his brother Ruhinga, whose country was at the
head of the lake, we would send our canoe back for
him, and that in the meanwhile we sbould leave two of
our men with liim, with their guns, to help defend liira
in case Warumashanya should attack him as soon as we
were gone — we embarked and pulled across. In nine
600 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
honrs we had arrived at the head of the lake in
Mugihewa, the country of Riihinga, Mukamba's elder
brother. In looking back to where we had come from
we perceived that we had made a diagonal cut across
from south-east to north-west, instead of having made a
direct east and west course ; or, in other words, from
Mugere — which was at least ten miles from the north-
ernmost point of the eastern shore — we had come to
Mugihewa, situated at the northernmost point of the
western shore. Had we continued along the eastern
shore, and so round the northern side of the lake, we
should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of "Waru-
mashanya, and Usumbura of Simveh, his ally and friend.
But by making a diagonal course, as just described, we
had arrived at the extreme head of the lake without
any difficulty.
The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugi-
hewa, is situated in the delta of the Rusizi River. It
is an extremely flat country, the highest part of which
is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous depres-
sions in it overgrown with the rankest of matete-
grass and the tallest of papyrus, and pond-like hollows,
filled with stagnant water, which emit malaria whole-
sale. Large herds of cattle are reared on it ; for where
the ground is not covered with marshy plants it pro-
duces rich, sweet grass. The sheep and goats, espe-
cially the former, are always in good condition; and
though they are not to be compared with English or
American sheep, they are the finest I have seen in
Africa. Numerous villages are seen on this land,
because the intervening spaces are not occupied with
the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts
of Africa. Were it not for the Euphorbia kolquall of
Abyssipia — which some chief has caused to be planted
Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANOANIKA. 501
as a defence round the villages — one might see from
one end of Mugihewa to the other. The waters along
the head of the lake, from the western to the eastern
shores, swarm with crocodiles. From the banks, I
counted ten heads of crocodiles, and the Rusizi, we were
told, was full of them.
Ruliinga, who came to see us soon after we had
taken up our quarters in his village, was a most amiable
man, who always contrived to see something that ex-
cited his risibility ; though older by five or six years
perhaps — he said he was a hundred years old — than
Mukamba, he was not half so dignified, nor regarded
with so much admiration by his people as his younger
brother. Ruhinga had a better knowledge, however,
of the country than Mukamba, and an admirable
memory, and was able to impart his knowledge of the
country intelligently. After he had done the honours
as chief to us — presented us with an ox and a sheep,
milk and honey — we were not backward in endeavour-
ing to elicit as much information as possible out of him.
The summary of the information derived from Ru-
hinga may be stated as follows :
The country bordering the head of the lake from
Urundi proper, on the eastern shore, to Uvira on
the western, is divided into the following districts :
1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which
issued into the lake the small rivers of Mugere and
Mpanda. 2nd. A^ukanigi, governed by Warumush-
anya, which occupied the whole of the north-eastern
head of the lake, through which issued into the lake
the small rivers of Karindwa and Mnofera wa Kani>>i.
3rd. On the eastern half of the district, at tlie head of
the lake, was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally
and friend of Warumashanya, extending to tiie -eastern
G02
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
bank of the Rusizi. 4th. Commencing from the
western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme north-
western head of the lake, was Mugihewa — Ruhinga's
country. 5th. From Uvira on the west, running north
past Mugihewa, and overlapping it on the north
side as far as the hills of Chamati, was Ruwenga,
also a country governed by Mukamba. Beyond
Ruwenga, from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda
River, was the country of Chamati. West of Ruwenga,
comprising all the mountains for two days' journey in
that direction, was Uashi. These are the smaller sub-
divisions of what is commonly known as RuM'enga
and TJsige. Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ru-
wenga and Mugihewa ; Usige, the countries of Usum-
bura, Mukanigi, and Mugere. But all these countries
are only part and parcel of Urundi, which comprises
all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River,
on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extend-
ing over ten days' journey direct north from the head
of the lake, and one month in a north-eastern direction
to Murukuko, the capital of Mwezi, Sultan of all
Urundi. Direct " north of Urundi is Ruanda ; also a
very large country.
The Rusizi River — according to Ruhinga — rose
near a lake called Kivo, which he said is as long as
from Mugihawa to Mugere, and as broad as from
Mugihawa to Warumashanya's country, or, say
eighteen miles in length by about 'eight in breadth.
The lake is surrounded by mountains on the western
and northern sides : on the south-western side of one
of these mountains issues the Rusizi — at first a small
rapid stream ; but as it proceeds towards the lake it
receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan, Mohira, Nyam-
a^ana, . Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu Kavimvira,
Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANG AN IK A.
503
Myove, Ruhuha, Mukindu, Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba,
and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which seems to be the
largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the
country in which it is situated. On one side is Mu-
tumbi (probably the Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on
the west is Ruanda; on the east is Urundi. The
name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura.
After so many minute details about the River
Rusizi, it only remained for us to see it. On the
second morning of our arrival at Mugihewa we
mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore the
head of the lake and the mouth of the Rusizi. We
found that the northern head of the lake was indented
with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to three
miles broad ; that long broad spits of sand, overgrown
with matete, separated each bay from the other. The
first, starting from west to east, at the broadest part, to
the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about
three miles broad, and served as a line of demarcation
between Mukamba's district of Ruwenga and Mugihewa
of Ruhinga ; it was also two miles deep. The second
bay w^as a mile from the southern eitremity of Mugi-
hewa to Ruhiuga's village at the head of the bay, and
•'t was a mile across to another spit of sand which was
terminated by a small island. The third bay stretched
for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of
which was another island, one and a quarter mile in
length, and was tlie western side of the fourth bay, at
the head of which was the delta of the Rusizi, This
fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles in depth,
and penetrated half a mile further inland than any
other. Soundings indicated six feet dee[), and the
same depth was kept to within a few hundred yards
of the principal mouth of the Rusizi. The current
504 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
was very sluggish ; not more than a mile an hour.
Though we constantly kept our binocular searching
for the river, we could not see the main channel until
within 200 yards of it, and then only by watching by
what outlet the fishing canoes carae out. The bay at
this point had narrowed from two miles to about
200 yards in breadth. Inviting a canoe to show us
the way, a small flotilla of canoes preceded us, from
the sheer curiosity of their owners. We followed, and
in a few minutes were ascending the stream, which was
very rapid, though but about ten yards wide, and very
shallow ; no't more than two feet deep. We ascended
about half a mile, the current being very strong, from
six to eight miles an hour, and quite far enough to
observe the nature of the stream at its embouchure. We
could see that it widened and spread out in a myriad of
channels, rusliing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete
grass ; and that it had the appearance of a swamp. We
had ascended the central, or main channel. The western
channel was about eight yards broad. We observed, after
we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel
was about six yards broad, and about ten feet deep, but
very sluggish. We had thus examined each of its
three mouths, and settled all doubts as to the Rusizi
being an effluent or influent. It was not necessary to
ascend higher, there being nothing about the river itself
to repay exploration of it.
The question, " Was the Rusizi an effluent or an
influent ?" was answered for ever. There was now
. no doubt any more on that point. In size it was
not to be compared with the Malagarazi River,
neither is it, or can it be, navigable for anything
but the smallest canoes. The only thing remarkable
about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not
Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA. 505
one hippopotamus was seen ; which may be taken
as another evidence of its shallowness. The bays
to the east of the Rusizi are of the same conforma-
tion as those on the west. Carefully judging from
the width of the several bays from point to point, and
of the several spits which separate them, the breadth of
the lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen
miles. Had we contented ourselv^es with simply looking
at the conformation, and the meeting of the eastern and
western ranges, we should have said that the lake
ended in a point, as Captain Speke has sketched it on
his map. But its exploration dissolved that idea.
Chamati Hill is the extreme northern termination of
the western range, and seems, upon a superficial ex-
amination, to abut against the Ramata mountains of
the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati ; but a
valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges,
and through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the
lake. Thougli Chamati terminates the western range,
the eaf^tern range continues for miles beyond, uorth-
westerly. After its issue from this broad gorge, the
Rusizi runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream,
through a wide alluvial plain, its own formation, in a
hundred channels, until, approaching the lake, it flows
into it by three channels only, as above described.
I should not omit to sta\e here, that thougli the
Doctor and I have had to contend against the strong
current of the Rusizi River, as it flowed swift and
strong INTO the Tanganika, the Doctor still adheres to
the conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays,
there must be an outlet to the Tanganika somewhere,
from the fact that all fresh-water lakes have outlets.
The Doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons far
better than I can for him ; and, lest I misconstrue the
606 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
subject, I shall leave it until be has an opportunity to
explain them himself ; which his great knowledge of
Africa will enable him to do with advantage.
One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the
Doctor, that Sir Samuel Baker will have to curtail tha
Albert N'Yanza by one, if not two degrees of latitude.
That well-known traveller has drawn his lake far
into the territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has
been placed on the eastern side ; whereas a large portion
of it, if not all, should be placed north of what he has
designated on his map as Usige. The information of
such an intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be
despised ; for, if Lake Albert came within a hundred
miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of
its existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally
he came from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that
country into Mugihewa, the district he now governs.
He has seen.Mwezi, the great King of Urundi, and
describes him as a man about forty years old, and as a
very good man. •
Our work was now done ; there was nothing more to
detain us at Mugihewa. Ruhinga had been exceedingly
kind, and given us one ox after another to butcher
and eat. Mukamba had done the same. Their women
had supplied us with an abundance of milk and butter,
and we had now bounteous supplies of both.
The Doctor had taken a series of observations for
latitude and longitude ; and Mugihewa was made out
to be in 3° 19' S. latitude.
On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left
Mugihewa, and rowing past the southern extremity
of the Katangara Islands, we approached the highlands
of Uashi, near the boundary line between Mukamba's
country and Uvira. The boundary line is supposed
Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.
507
to be a wide ravine, in the depths of which is a
grove of tall, beautiful, and straight-stemmed trees,
out of which the natives make their canoes.
Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the
lake close to the market-ground of Kirabula, the ex-
treme point of Burton and Speke's explorations of the
Tanganika, we steered south along the western shore of
the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, wliere we
halted to cook breakfast.
The village where lived Mruta, the King of Uviri,
was in sight of our encampment, and as we observed
parties of men ascending and descending the mountains
much more often than we thoiight augured good to our-
selves, we determined to continue on our course south.
Besides, there was a party of disconsolate-looking
Wajiji here, who had been plundered only a few days
before our arrival, for attempting, as the Wavira
believed, to evade the honga payment. - Such facts as
these, and our knowledge of the general state of in-
security in 4.he country, resulting from the many wars
in which the districts of the Tanganika were engaged,
determined us not to halt at Kavimba.
We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira
had collected themselves, and headed south against a
strong gale, which came driving down on us from the
south-west. After a hard pull of about two hours
in the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising,
we pointed tlie head of the boat into a little quiet cove,
almost hidden in tall reeds, and disembarked for the
night.
Cognizant of the dangers whicli surrounded us,
knowing that savage and implacable man was the
worst enemy we liad to fear, we employed our iitmost
energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn
508
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
bushes, and then sat down to supper after our work was
done, and turned in to sleep ; but" not before we had
posted watchmen to guard our canoe, lest the daring
thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in which case we
should have been in a pretty plight, and in most un-
enviable distress.
At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our
humble breakfast of coffee, cheese, and dourra cakes was
despatched, we steered south once more. Our fires had
attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious
fishermen of Kukumba ; but our precautions and the
vigilant watch we had set before retiring, had proved
an effectual safeguard against the Kivira thieves.
The western shores of the lake as we proceeded
were loftier, and more bold than the wooded heights of
Urundi and bearded knolls of Ujiji. A back ridge —
the vanguard of tlie mountains which rise beyond —
disclosed itself between the serrated tops of the front
line of mountains, which rose to a height of from 2,500
to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the folds of the
front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable
magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very
picturesque. The greater part of these hills have the
rounded and smooth top, or are tabularly summited.
The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at intervals,
j)romontorial projections of gradual sloping outlines,
which on the map I have designated capes, or points.
When rounding these points, up went our compasses for
the taking of bearings, and observing the directions of all
prominent objects of interest. Often these capes are
formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may
be sure a river will be found flowing. These pretty
alluvial plains, enfolded on the south, the west, and the
north by a grand mountain arc, present most luxurious
Dec. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIEA.
509
and enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be
of spontaneous growth. Groups of the Elasis Guinensis
palm embowering some dun-brown village ; au array
of majestic, superb growth of mvule trees; a broad
extent covered with vivid green sorghum stalks;
parachute-like tops of mimosa ; a line of white sand,
on which native canoes are drawn far above the
reach of the plangent, uneasy surf ; fishermen idly
reclining in the shade of a tree ; — these are the scenes
which reveal themselves to us as we voyage in our canoe
on the Tanganika. When wearied with the romance
of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have but to lift
our eyes to the great mountain tops looming darkly
and grandly on our right ; to watch the light pencilling
of the cirrus, brushing their summits, as it is drifted
towards the north by the rising wind : to watch
the changing forms which the clouds assume, from
the fleecy horizontal bars of the cirrus, to the denser,
gloomier cumulus, prognosticator of storm and rain,
which soon settles into a portentous group — Alps above
AljDs, One above another — and we know the storm
which was brewing is at hand, and that it is time to
seek shelter.
Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the
tall mvule tree. As lar as Bemba the Wabembe
occupy the mountain summits, while the "VVavira culti-
vate the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes
of the mountain. At Bemba we halted to take in
pieces of pipe-clay, in accordance with the superstition
of the Wajiji, who thought us certain of safe pas.sage
and good fortune if we complied with the ancient
custom.
Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which
curved ofi' to Cape Kabogi at tlie distance of ten miles.
610 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
About two-thirds of the way we arrived at a group of
islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky ; the
largest about 300 feet in length at the base, and about
200 feet in breadth. Here we made preparations
to halt for the night. The inhabitants of the island
were a gorgeously-feathered old cock, which was kept
as a propitiatory offering to the spirit of the island, a
sickly, yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed stork,
and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken posses-
sion of what had been rehgiously reserved for them,
took flight to the most western island, where from
their perches they continued to eye us most solemnly.
As these islands were with difficulty pronounced by
us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were
the only objects we were likely to discover, named
them the " New York Herald Islets and, in confirma-
tion of the new designation given them, shook hands
with me upon it. Careful dead-reckoning settled them
to be in lat. 3° 41' S.
The summit of the largest island was well adapted
to take bearings, and we improved the opportunity, as
most extensive views of the broad and lengthy lake
and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were
attainable. The Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and
bore N.N.E. from it ; Katanga Cape, S.E. by S. ;
Sentakeyi, E.S.E. ; Magala, E. by N. ; south-western
point of Muzimu bore S., northern point of Muzimu
island, S.S.E.
At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to
resume our voyage. Once or twice in the night we had
been visited by fishermen, but our anxious watchful-
ness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me, how-
ever, that the people of the opposite shore, who were
our visitors, were eagerly watching an opportunity to
Dko.1871.] our cruise ON THE TANG ANTRA.
511
pounce upon our canoe, or take us bodily for a prey ; and
our men were considerably affected by tbese thoughts,
if we may judge from the hearty good-will with which
they rowed away from our late encampment.
Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory
of the Wasansi. We knew we were abreast of a dif-
ferent tribe by the greeting " Moholo," which a group
of fishermen gave us ; as that of the Wavira was
*' Wake," like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uhha.
We soon sighted Cape Luvumba — a sloping projec-
tion of a mountain ridge which shot far into the lake.
As a storm was brewing, we steered for a snug little
cove that appeared before a village ; and, drawing our
canoe from the water, began to set the tent, and make
other preparations for passing the night.
As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we
saw no reason to suspect tliat they entertained any
hostility to Arabs and Wangwana. Accordingly we
had our breakfast cooked, and as usual laid down for
an afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep), and was dreann'ng
away in my tent, in happy oblivion of the strife and
contention that had risen since I had gone to sleep,
when I heard a voice hailing me with, " Master,
master ! get up, quick. Here is a fight going to
begin!" I sprang up, and snatching my revolver belt
from the gun-stand, walked outside. Surely, there
appeared to be considerable animus between the several
factions ; between a noisy, vindictive-looking set of
natives of the one part, and our people of the other
part. Seven or eight of our people had taken refuge
behind the canoe, and had their loaded guns half
pointing at the passionate mob, which was momentarily
increasing in numbers, but I could not see the Doctor
anywhere.
512 HOW I FOUND LIVING STOXE.
" "Where is the Doctor ?" I asked.
" He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass,"
said Selira.
" Anybody with him ?"
" Susi and Chumah."
" You, Bombay, send two men oflf to warn the Doctor,
and tell him to hurry up here."
But just at this period the Doctor and his two men
appeared on the brow of the hill, looking down in a
most complacent manner upon the serio-comic scene
that the little basin wherein we were encamped pre-
sented. For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it,
there was much that was comical blended with it — in
a naked young man who — perfectly drunk, barely able
to stand on his feet — was beating the ground with his
only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away like a
madman ; declaring by this, atid by that, in his own
choice language, that no Mgwana or Arab should halt
one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father,
the Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not
quite so violent in his behaviour.
In the meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene,
and Selim had slipped my Winchester rifle, with the
magazine full of cartridges, into my hand. The Doctor
calmly asked what was the matter, and was answered
by the Wajiji guides that the people wished Us to leave,
as they were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because
the eldest son of the Sultan of Muzimu, the large island
nearly opposite, had been beaten to death by a Baluch,
named Khamis, at Ujiji, because the young fellow had
dared look into his harem, and ever since peace had
been broken between the Wasansi and Arabs.
After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I
came to the conclusion that it were better that wo
Deo. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.
513
should endeavour to pacify the Sultan by a present,
rather than take offence at a drunken boy's extravagant
freak. In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at'
one of my men with a billhook he carried. This had
been taken ae a declaration of hostilities, and the soldiers
were ready enough to engage in war ; but there was no
necessity to commence fighting with a drunken mob,
who could have been cleared off the ground with our
revolvers' alone had we desired it.
The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was
not a Mgwana, or an Arab, but a white man ; that
Arabs and Wangwana had no such color as we had.
We were white men, different people altogetlier from
those whom they were accustomed to see ; that no
black men had ever suffered injury from white men.
This seemed to produce great effect, for after a little
gentle persuasion the drunken youtli, and his no less
inebriate sire, were induced to sit down to talk quietly.
In their conversation with us, they frequently referred
to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu, who
was brutally murdered. " Yes, brutally murdered !"
they exclaimed several times, in their own tongue ;
ilhistrating, by a faithful pantomime, how the unfor-
tunate youth had died.
Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild,
paternal way, and their loud protestations against Arab
cruelty were about to subside, when the old Sultan
suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an excited
manner, and in one of his perambulations deliberately
slashed his leg with the sharp blade of his spear, and
then exclaimed that the Wangwana had wounded him!
At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight,
but one old woman, who carried a strong staff with a
carved lizard's body on its top, commenced to abuse the
2 L
514 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
chief with all the power of her voluble tongue, charging
him with a desire to have them all killed, and other
women joined in with her in advising him to he quiet,
and accept the present we were willing to give.
But it was evident that there was little needed
to cause all men present in that little hollow to begin a
most sanguinary strife. The gentle, patient bearing of
the Doctor had more effect than anything else in
making all forbear bloodshed, while there was left the
least chance of an amicable settlement, and in the .end
it prevailed. The Sultan and his son were both sent
on their way rejoicing.
While the Doctor conversed with them, and en-
deavoured to calm their fierce passions, I had the tent
struck, and the canoes launched, and the baggage stowed,
and when the negotiations had concluded amicably, I
begged the Doctor to jump into the boat, as this
apparent peace was simply a lull before a storm ;'
besides, said I, there are two or three cowardly creatures
in the boat, who, in case of another disturbance, would
not scruple to leave both of us here.
From Cape Luvumba, about 4*30 p.m., we commenced
pulling across; at 8 p.m. we were abreast of Cape
Panza, the northern extremity of the island of Muzimu ;
at G A.M. we were southward of Bikari, and pulling for
Mukuiigu,inUrundi,at which place we arrived at 10 A.M.,
having been seventeen hours and a half in crossing the
lake, which, computing at two miles an hour, may be
said to be thirty-five miles direct breadth, and a little
more than forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba.
On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling,
we arrived at picturesque Zassi again ; on the 12th, at
the pretty cove of Niasanga ; and at 11 a.m. we had
rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us.
Deo. 1871.] OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.
515
We entered the port very quietly, without the usual
firing of guns, as we were short of powder and ball.
As we landed, our soldiers and the Arab magnates came
to the water's edge to greet us.
Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what
had occurred during our absence. This faithful man,
left behind in charge of Livingstone's house, had done
most excellently. Kalulu had scalded himself, and
had a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence.
Mabruki had locked up Marora in chains for wounding
one of the asses. Bilali, the stuttering coward, a bully
of women, had caused a tumult in the market-place,
and had been sharply belaboured with the stick by
Mabruki. And, above all most welcome, was a letter I
received from, the American Consul at Zanzibar, dated
June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as
April 22nd of the same year! Poor Livingstone
exclaimed, " And I have none. What a pleasant thing
it is to have a real and good friend !"
Our voyage on tlie Tanganika had lasted twenty-
eight days, during which time we had traversed over
300 miles of water.
UJIJI cow, DNYAMWEZI COW, PARIAH DOG, AND FAT-TAILED SHEEP.
CHAPTER XIV.
•GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS.
(Second Series.)
Let us now relate, in a chapter sj)ecially devoted to
them, what new geographical and ethnographical facts
we have discovered since we left Uyanzi, or Magunda
Mkali, concerning the countries of Unyamwezi, Uko-
nongo, Ukawendi, Uvinza, Uhha, Ukaranga, Ujiji,
Urundi, Usowa, Ukaramba, Ugoma, Uguhha, Rua,
and Manyuema.
The first country for our consideration is U-nya-
mwezi, which might be pronounced, according to the
natives, Oo-nya-mwezi. I beg to differ from all
preceding writers as to the exact meaning of the word.
Messrs. Krapf and Eebman, to whom the world is in-
debted for first rousing its curiosity respecting the
interior of East Africa, translate the word U-nya-niwezi
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 517
into " Country of the Moon " — U being always a prefix
for " country," nya meaning " of," and mwezi, " moon."
The erudite Capt. Burton seems inclined to the same
opinion ; while Speke unhesitatingly adopts the same
interpretation. "With all due deference to the more
mature knowledge of Africa which these gentlemen
possess over me, I would suggest to those interested in
the discussion of nice topics, such as these, that a Kisa-
wahili definition has been given to a Kinyamwezi word.
In the Kisawahili language, if it were a country of the
moon, it would be called Umwezi. Unyamwezi is a
Kinyamwezi word, and cannot be interpreted, from the
accidental similarity of the last two syllables, with the
well-known Kisawahili word mwezi, which means
moon. If we take the Kisawahili standard for in-
terpreting the word U-nya-mwezi, we might just as
well accept the other meaning of the last two syllables
mwezi, which mean thief, as well as moon, in the
Kisawahili language.
Capt. Burton says that Mr. Desborough Coofey
prefers "lord of the world" for the meaning of the
word Unyamwezi, which he spells " Monomoezi." I
piefer Mr. Cooley's interpretation to Capt. Burton's,
yet I beg to differ with Mr. Cooley also in the precise
translation. So far as I could ascertain from the
Wanyarawezi, and Arabs learned in the lore of the
country, there once lived a king of Ukalaganza — which
is the original name of the country, and by which name
alone the western tribes know it — whose name was
Mwezi, who ruled over all the land from Uyanzi to
Uvinza. He was the greatest king then known ; none
could stand before him in the battle, none ever reigned
so wisely as he. But, after this great king's death, his
sous fought among themselves for the possession of the
518
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
supreme power ; and in the several wars which followed,
in the course of time, the districts which the sons had
gained became known only by their distinctive names,
as distinguished from the central and greater portion -of
the country, which still retained its old designation of
Ukalaganza. But the people who occupied Ukalaganza,
and who recognized the heir appointed by old Mwezi,
the king, came to be known by-and-by as children of
Mwezi, and the country as Unyamwezi ; and the other
districts as Konongo, Sagozi, Gunda, Siinbiri, &c.
To support this theory, based upon the tradition related
to me by the old chief of ]\fasangi, which lies on the
road to Mfuto, I will state that tlie name of the present
king of Urundi is Mwezi ; and it is notorious that the
name of almost every village in Africa is simply
derived from some ruler, either living or dead. In-
stances :■ — The village of Misonghi is known from
Kwihara to Bagamoyo as Kadetamare, the name of
the chief; Capt. Burton can confirm this fact himself,
having placed it on his map as Kadetamare. The
district of Nyambwa, in Ugogo, is fast losing its old
title, and is more extensively known as Pembera
Pereh, which is the name of the decrepit old Sultan of
Nyambwa. Mrera, in Ukonongo, is the name of the
chief, while the ancient designation of the district was
Kasera. " Mbogo," or " Buffalo," has also given his
name to a large and populous district in Ukonongo ;
then there is Pumburu, the name of a neighbouring
chief to Mapunda, of Usowa. Uganda is fast giving
way to the famous name of King Mtesa ; and, in a few
years, a decade perliaps, future travellers will hear
from the Arabs of tlie great country called Unyamtesa,
or Umtesa. No ; I decidedly object to having Unya-
mwezi interpreted into the poetic " Land of the Moon,"
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 519
or tlie ill-meaning " Land of the Thief." Unjamwezi
simply means the Land of Mwezi.
Also do I differ most positively with Capt. Burton,
if he supposes that " Ximeamaye," the country said to
be • sixty days from the Atlantic Ocean by the Dutch
historian Dapper, can be Unyamwezi. A man travelling
on horseback could not accomplish the distance from
the Atlantic Ocean to Unyamwezi, even in 1671 — two
hundred years ago — when the country extended to
within ten days of the Tanganika Lake, in sixty days ;
but a native unencumbered with a load might possibly
reach Manyuema in that time ; and " Nimeamaye " is
probably a corruption, caused by misapprehending the
correct sound of Manyuema, or " Manyuemaye."
At the present day Unyamwezi extends from east to
west a rectilineal distance of about 145 miles ; that
is, from the River Ngwhalah, between Mgongo Tembo
and Madedita, in E. long. 34°, to Usenye, E. long.
31° 25', which is considered the western extremity of
Ukalaganza, or Unyamwezi ; and from north to south,
from the southern extremity of the Victoria N'Yanza,
in S. lat. 3° 51', to Gombe River, S. lat. 5° 40', a
distance of 149 geographical miles, comprising a square
area of more than 24,500 miles.
This large area is divided into several districts, such
as Unyanyembe, Usagari, Ugunda, Ugara, Ngnrn,
Msalula, Usongo, Khokoro, Usimbiri, Nasangaro,
Ugoro, &c. ; of which Unyanyembe is the most
important in Unyamwezi, both from its central position
and populousness. The people north of Unyanyembe
are known as the Wasukuina, and those to the soutli as
Watakama. The latter term is seldom used in Unyan-
yembe, though often by the Wasukuma.
Taken altogether, Unyamwezi may be said to bo the
520
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
finest country in the Tvhole of East and Central Africa.
It is one grand rolling table-land, with a gentle western
trend towards the Tanganika, which drains the greater
part of it. If one were to take a bird's-eye view of it
he would see forests, a purple-colored carpet of leafage,
broken here and there by naked plains and clearings,
stretching to all points of the horizon, with now and
then dark heaving masses of rocky hill, rising like
blunted cones above the gentle undulations, which
rise and subside over and beyond the horizon, like
the heavy, exhausted waves of an ocean after a storm.
Stand upon any coign of vantage you like, on the
height of some of those great Titanic boulders of
syenite which crop up above the crest of the hills around
Mgongo Tembo, or the rocky humps of Ngaraiso, and
you will behold a scene the like of which you never
saw before. They are no grand mountains, or sublime
heights ; there is no picturesqueness about it — you
would call it prosaic, monotonous, perhaps, for you will
have witnessed the same scene a hundred times before
you will have arrived in Uyanzi ; but in this excessive
monotony there is sublimity. The oceanj churned into
foam and wild waves, is sublime; the ocean, slumbering
under the equatorial sun, reflecting the deep blue of the
firmament— extending without a ruffle vou know not how
far — is sublime ; and so is there sublimity in this view
of the great, the infinite, apparently endless extent of
forests in Unyamwezi. The foliage is of all 'the colors
of the prism; but as the woods roll away into the
distance the calm, mysterious haze enwraps them in
its soft shroud ; paints them first a light blue, then
gradually a deeper blue, until, in the distance, there
appears but a dim looming; and on gazing at its f;\ded
contour we find ourselves falling into a day-dream, as
GEOGBAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 521
indistinct in its outline as the view which appears on
the horizon. I defy any one to gaze on such a scene
long without wishing that his life would fade away as
serenely as tlie outlines of the forests in Unyamwezi.
'V\^e found a species of pisolitic limestone in the
maritime region ; schist and syenite in alternate lines
in Ugogo ; but in Unyamwezi the enormous smooth
sheets which have appeared with bare humps in Uyanzi
loom up into solid bills — great disintegrated fragments
and craggy ridges, softened, of course, by the wealth of
vegetation, which liides tbe rough and uneven lines
from human view.
Tbere are only two rivers worthy of the name in
Unyamwezi, and those are the Northern and the
Southern Gombe. The northern river, under the name
of Kwala, sometimes called Wallah, rises south of
Bubuga, and after sweeping with a north-westerly curve,
enters the Gombe north of Tabora — even here a stream
of some magnitude and importance. With good light
boats in the latter part of the rainy season, a man
might easily — eight miles or so from Tabora — embark
his people, and float down happily enough to the
Tanganika Lake ; provided, of course, that all 'the
tribes were willing. A properly-equipped expedition
might work wonders in this way. •
The Nghwhalah River — known to rise nortli of
Kusuri, intersecting the Unyanyembe path frequently,
as one may see as he proceeds towards Tura — few
miles east of Madedita takes its steady course south-
west, and passing through Nguru, comes into view
again in Manyara, and is then known as the Southern
Gombe, but which lias a current only during the very
height of the rainy season. From Manyara it runs
across Ugala country in a north-by-west direction ; and
522
SOW I FOUND LIVINCtSTONE.
before its junction with the Malagarazi it receives the
streams of Mrera and Mtambu, which, after skirting
the eastern base of the Rusawa Mountains, glide north-
easterly across the park lands oit Uvenda to the
Gombe.
All other streams, which are few in Unyamwezi, and
of no importance, discharge their waters into either the
Northern or Southern Gombe. The water is gene-
rally supplied by large pools, or in deep, lengthy
hollows, which, in India, would be called nullahs, but,
with Americans, gullies. Where nullahs and pools
fail, pits are dug, by which a pale, milky kind of water
is obtained. This color of the water, to a native of
Unyamwezi, is considered by him to be a sure sign of
its goodness ; and he is apt to evince his admiration
of its qualities, if he is asked whether the water is
good, by the fervent expression, " 0 miope sana " —
" Oh, it is quite white ;" by which, of course, you must
understand that it is very good, if very white.
The productions of the forests of Unyamwezi, as well
as those of Ukonongo and Uvinza, are similar to those
of Uyanzi ; and, indeed, such as are coftimon to all
the tree-clad uplands under or near the equator.
The most gigantic tree fbund between Uyanzi and the
Tanganika is the mtamba — sycamore, which is equal in
jjze to the mighty baobabs of Ugogo. It produces a
kind of pleasant fig, which, when ripe, is eaten readily
by the natives. But these sycamores are few and far
between. Other trees frequent in the forests are known
by the Kisawahili terms — mtundu, miombo, mkora,
mkurongo, mbembu, mvule, mtogwe, msundurusi,
mninga, mbugu, matoiiga.
The natives have ingeniously found uses fpr all of
them. The imbite forms rafters, as beautiful as cedar,
GEOQBAPniOAL AND ETHNOGBAPEICAL REMARKS. 523
capable of being carved ornamentally. It also forms
doors and carved pillars, which range along the
veranda. It emits quite an agreeable perfume, and
its dark-reddish mahogany-like lines of red and pale
yellow are very pretty and rich-looking.
The mkora is a fine large tree, growing into stately
proportions in the forests of Ugunda and some parts
of Ukonongo, out of which the natives carve most
laboriously the kiti, or stool, in such frequent use with
the elders and chiefs throughout Africa ; as well as
their huge mortars, in which the dourra, or sorghum,
grain, and Indian corn is pounded into 'flour.
The mkurongo is the tree out of which the pole
which tlie natives use as a pestle throughout Central
Africa for the pounding of the grain is made. It is
harder and more durable than hickory, and, when
polished, has a whitish glistening appearance.
The mbugu supplies the soft useful barls which is
used by the natives to make cloth. The bark, after
being well soaked, is pounded, and, after some drying
and rubbing, presents the appearance of a thick loose
felt. Rope is also sometimes made of it, but more fre-
quently it is employed in the manufacture of kirindos,
or round boxes, like primitive band-boxes, which are
painted and ornamented with a composition of various
clays. These kirindos are sometimes very gigantic,
and are used to store grain, supported above the ground,
out of the reach of white ants, by a strong structure
of logs. The bark of the mbugu forms admirable sheds,
and is often used to form a kitanda, or a rude bed-
stead, by the fathers of families and luxuriously-inclined
youtlis. It is out of the bark of this tree that the
Warori dwelling on the Rufiji construct their bark
canoes.
524 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The mvule tree is that out of which the lake tribes
form their canoes. The largest canoes on the Tanga-
nika are considerably over sixty feet long. The tree
attains its greatest size in the ravines of Ugoma,
opposite Ujiji, on the western shore. Uvira, Urundi,
and Usowa also possess very many fine specimens of
it. It is a great work of labor, the cutting down of
these trees, and the excavating of the enormous logs into
canoes. It requires over three months' labor before tlie
canoe may be said to be ready for launching. During the
excavation of the huge log the owner makes a series of
fires, out of the chips, along the upper side of it, and his
neighbors are called to assist him in the work for a ti ifle
of grain or palm oil. When the canoe is ready for
launching, he brews several pots of pombe, and invites
all his neighbors to push it into the sea ; and, after
a spurt, they regale themselves with the native beer
frequently, a,nd again set about their work with renewed
strength and vociferous shouting. A large canoe may
be bought with one liundred and twenty doti of cloth,
or, say, a 7 5 -lb. bale ; but the Arabs, or the Wajiji, when
they proceed to purchase a canoe, generally take with
them an assortment of goods, such as a dozen pots of
palm oil, a dozen goats, a number of various cloths
several hoes, and a number of bags of salt and grain, by
which the purchase is made with profit.
The other trees which the Central African forests
produce are the kolquall, or candelabra tree ; the msun-
durusi, or copal-tree, frequent in Ukawendi ; the moumbo,
or palmyra ; the raiombo ; the beautiful and fragrant
mimosa ; the- mtundu ; and on the shores of Lake Tunga-
nika is seen the beautiful Guinea palm tree, called
mchikichi, and the plantain tree.
The palm oil is extracted from the fruit of the palm
GEOORAPEIOAL AND ETHNOORAPHICAL REMARKS. 525
tree, which hangs pendent, somewhat hke the date.
This is pounded and hoiled, and, when allowed to cool,
the oil is collected into great earthen pots, which will
contain from two to five gallons. Four yards of cloth,
or a doti, will purchase one of tlie largest pots full of
palm oil, which in appearance is like soft, yellow,
ochre-coloured butter. The Wajiji and others use the
oil for cooking frequently.
Out of the same tree, the Guinea palm, is extracted
an intoxicating liquor, called tembo, which is a far
more agreeable drink than the pombe, or beer.
Plantains are abundant also in all the villages
bordering the lake. The toddy called " zogga " is
made by pounding the plantains in the huge wooden
mortar wherein the various grains are also converted
into flour.
The cactaceous and aloetic plants are visible all over
the country, but in the arid plains of Ugogo and
Southern Uvinza more especially.
The tamarind trees are frequent throughout the
forests, but they attain their greatest growth in Usa-
gara, and west of Unyanyembe. Their fruit forms a
grateful acidified beverage when steeped in water.
The tamarisks and the several species of acacia
deserve notice, if one had only space. The latter grow
everywhere, and are a sore trouble to a caravan, on
account of their wide-spreading branches. The thorn
trees and gums are among the most obnoxious to
travellers. The former species bristle with all kinds of
hurtful thorns. One of the " wait-a-bit " kind caught
Selim, my interpreter, by the neck one day when riding
while sick with dysentery, and tore an ugly wound in
the nock in alarming proximity to the jugular vein, the
mark of which ho will carry to his dying day.
526
EOW I TOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Among the fruif-bearing kind of tvecs are the
mbembii, or wood peach ; the rnatonga, or nux vomica ;
the tamarind ; the sing-we, or wood plum ; the mtogwe,
or wood apple ; and in TJkawendi there are numerous
varieties of grapes. But there are scores of species,
some of which are dangerous, and others innocuous,
which are indigenous to the soil, whose names or pro-
perties I could not obtain.
Among the fruit-trees planted and carefully nourished
by the Arabs of Unyanyembe in their gardens are the
papaw, guava, lime, citron^ pomegranate, mango, ba-
nana, orange.
The principal food of the several tribes dwelling in
Unyamwezi and the countries west as far as Lake
Tanganika consists of matama (Kisawahili), or dourra
(Arabic), or jowar (Hindostanee), the Linnaean title of
which is the Holcus sorglium ; b&jri (Holcus spicatus) ;
millet {Panicum italicum) ; maweri, or sesame ; maize, or
Indian corn. The pulse kinds are numerous, but the
vetch, the field and large garden beans are most common.
Eice is plentiful' in Unyanyembe and Ujiji ; wheat is
grown by the Arabs only.
Sweet potatoes, yams, and manioc are abundant in
Unyanyembe and Ujiji, and in some parts of Ukawendi.
Sugar-cane flourishes at Ujiji.
There is only one harvest, which takes place in April
on the Tanganika, in May in Unyamwezi, and in June
in the maritime region.
Cotton, tobacco, and the castor-oil plant are grown
everywhere throughout the central regions. Gourds
and cucumbers are also numerous and plentiful. Indigo
grows wild.
Among the shrubs, plants, and grasses indigenous to
Central Africa may be mentioned the wild thyme and
GEOGBAPHIGAL AND ETHmGRAPEIGAL REMARKS. 527
sage, the holly and sunflower, bird-pepper, chilies,
ginger, turmeric, the oleander, gloriosa superba (near
the Tanganika) ; the poppy-flower (grows wild in the
neighborhood of villages in Ukawendi), as also wild
mustard and curry. But in the great forests bordering
the lake may be seen a hundred varieties of flowering
shrubs, exhaling an exquisitely sweet fragrance. Among
the grasses are the hawk-weed, ox-eye, the grass known
as bhota in India, and whitlow, besides scores of rank
species, such as the tiger and spear grass.
The lotus, water, and leafless lilies may be seen
in the still Gombe lakes, and in the pools of Uka-
wendi.
Papyrus and the matete cane margin all the un-
inhabited spots on the alluvial plains on the shores of
the Tanganika. The cschinomenae, or the pith tree,
may be seen at the mouths of all the large rivers issu-
ing into this lake.
As the limits to which I am necessarily restricted in
a chapter such as this prevent Tny entering into a
detailed zoological account of the species of- animals
and birds of Central Africa, my readers will perhaps
pardon me if I am brief.
I shall commence with the quadrumanous order, as
the most higldy organized of the brute species.
The largest of this kind is what is known as the
Wanderoo baboon. It is distinguished for its groat
size and leonine aspect. From a distance it resembles
a small lion, and its hoarse hollow roar in the dense forests
of Ukawendi serves not a little to heighten tlie illusion.
A long greyish mane surrounds the head and covers
the neck. The hair on its back is of a dark grey, mixed
with light brown. The tail is long, and ends in a tuft.
It dw(;lls in the hollows of large trees and in caves.
528
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
This was the -kind we saw near the sources of the
Rugufu, but on some of the feeders of the same river
further west we saw large numbers of this babpon, of
a true tawny color.
After this comes the immense dog-faced baboon, a
description of which I have given in the preceding
chapter. There are other and smaller species found in
Ukawendi and Western Ukonongo, with black faces,
similar to the tota of Abyssinia. They are exceedingly
active, and good climbers. They lead a gregarious
life, and feed on wild berries, mbembu, or wood peach,
and insects.
The larger feline animals which we saw were the
lion and the leopard, in the forests of Ukawendi. The
hide of the lion becomes the property of the Sultan.
The lion inhabits the dark thick belts of timber which
border the streams, and wherever game is found in the
park lands this proud beast is also sure to be found.
The cry of the spotted cyn-hysena was heard almost
every night on our journey throughout Africa, especially
in Utanda and TJgogo. This animal is as large as a
mastiff, with a most powerful head, indicating great
strength of jaw. Its color is a dirty tawny mixed with
grey, and with black spots that seem faded. Its ears
are large and thick, spotted with black. The dental
system is similar to that of a dog, but the hyajna has
three false molars in the upper row, and four in the
lower. Their teeth are armed with formidable cutting
points, which enable them to crush the largest bones.
The jackals we met were similar to our prairie
coyotes, and their cries had the same sharp yelping
tones. They are similar to foxes in their muzzles, and
have thick bushy tails. Their color is of a dark grey.
Other animals which we met were elephants, rhino-
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 529
ceroses, the camelopard, or the giralFe, the zebra, the
hartebeest, the eland, the buffiilo, spring-bok, pallah,
or water buck, the sable anteloj)e, the brindled gnu,
the reddish and lead-colored hog and wild boar, the
hyrax, or coney, the kudu (^Ant. strepsiceros), the tiny
perpusilla, or blue-buck, and scores of the reit-bok,
or red -buck {A. Eliotragus). As I hav^e already
described them, it is imnecessary to repeat my observa-
tions. I may mention here that I have seen numbers
of prairie dogs, or ground squirrels, on the banks of the
Rugufu or the Gombe. Of the hippopotami and croco-
diles we saw numbers, in the Kingani, the Gombe, and
the Malagarazi Rivers, and the Lake Tanganika.
The domesticated animals are such as are common
to all countries. The oxen are of two kinds; that
which we saw in Ugogo, Unyanyembe, and Uliha, was
distingwished by a hump between the shoulders, such as
has the American bison. The other kind, which we saw
in Ujiji only, was distinguished by long legs, thin body,
and enormously long horns.
Sheep are common with all tribes, and are distin-
guished by broad, fat, heavy tails. Goats are numerous,
and of various colors. But the finest goats in Africa
are those of Manyuema, which are short-legged and
stout-bodied.
The asses, great numbers of which are found in
Ubanarama, are strong and large, but vicious and wild.
Dogs are numerous, and are seen in every village.
They are of the true pariah breed, and are a cowardly
and mangy set.
Tame cats are also frequent in every ^■il]age, and
they must have a fine time of it, as the rats infest eveiy
house, hut, and tembe.
The tc^athered race is very numerous in Central
2 M
530
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Africa. The most common of the birds which we saw
were fish-eagles, bustards, kites, vultures, white-necked
crows, turtledoves, ortolans, saddle-billed, storks, on the
Gombe, the Mpokwa, and the Rugufu : the ibis nigra,
the ibis religiosa, toucans, wild geese (armed with spurs
on their wings), wald ducks, black Madagascar ducks,
and gulls on the Tanganika : paddy birds, thrushes,
hammer-headed storks, pelicans, lead-colored and tuft-
headed cranes, divers, kingfishers, and Egyptian geese,
eared grebes, terns, guinea-fowl, quail, jitarmigan, and
florican. I also saw some ostriches in Ugogo ; swans
on Lake Ugombo ; snipe and wagtails on the Tanganika,
near the Rusizi River ; besides great and little owls, bats,
barbets, and the balaenceps and sand-pipers. Others which
I recognized were hoopoes, parrots, jays, WTens, red-
wings, golden fly-catchers, and the little egrets. This,
as you may see, is far too long a list to enter into any
description of the several species.
Among the reptiles w^e met were a long green snake,
the boa, and a little silver-backed snake. Rock lizards
were innumerable ; tortoise, iguanas, the gymuopus,
toads, frogs, and terrapin w^ere also met with.
The insects seen principally were the common house
flies, mosquitoes, fleas, .lice, tsetse, horse and gadflies,
enormous beetles, dragon-flies, tarantulas, garden and
house spiders, yellow scorpions, centipedes, myriapedes,
caterpillars, pismires, white, red, and black ants.
The fishes of the Tanganika are of great variety.
(1.) The first is the silurus, called by the Wajiji singa,
which grows, according to native report, to four, and even
six feet in length. The one I sketched was 38i inches
long, and weighed 102 lbs. in weight, but was considered
to be a small one. It is an extremely fat fish, of a
dark-brown color on the back, and light brown, nclined
GEOaBAPinCAL AND ETIJNOGHAPHJCAL BEMARKS. 531
to whiteness, on the belly. This fish is scaleless. It is
the same kind which we find in the pools and rivers.
It is caught in the Gombe River by hundreds, is cut
up and dried, and carried into Unyanyembe for sale
to the Arabs, the Moharnraedanized negroes, and
Wasawahili.
(2.) The next in importance and size is the sangara,
scaled, considered good for food. The one Avhich the
woodcut represents was 23 inches long, and 15i inches
round the body, and weighed 6^ lbs.
(3.) Next comes tlie mvuro, a thick, fleshy fish,
considered excellent eating. This, also, is scaled. The
engraving on p^ge 532 represents one 18 inches long,
15| inches round the body, and weighing 5i lbs.
(4.) A scaled fish called the " chai," which I sketched,
was %\ inches long, 4 inches round the body, bad a
greenish tint on its back, and was light underneath. .
(5.) A scaleless fisli, j7 inches long, 4 inches broad,
marked with pale inky stripes a quarter of an inch
broad, belly white, a handsome fish, is very numerous
in the lake, and large captures of this kind are made
daily by the fishermen of Ujiji.
(().) Another scaleless fish, (J inches long, with silvered
belly, had a taste like trout, and is a great favorite.
(7.) A perch, general size 8 inches long, and G inches
round the lK)dy, was a very dry fish, and seldom \)\\y-
chased except by tlie poor classes.
(8.) A short, thick eel, is a fine-flavored fish. The
one sketched was 17 inches long, and 4 inches round
the body.
The above-mentioned species are among the most
important of the fishes of the Tangaiiilca ; but there is
another variety, which, though the smallest fish, yet
contributes more than any other to the food of the
532
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 533
jjeople, and that is the minute " dogara," a species of
white-bait, which is caught in great nets by the thou-
sand. They are spread out in tlie sun to dry, or are
salted, and are in this manner exported even as far as
Unyanyembe. There are also several varieties of fish
like the sardines of the French coast, which are caught
with rod and line, or hand-nets. The markets of Ujiji
also expose shrimps, and a kind of oyster, for sale.
The metals known to the tribes under consideration
are copper and iron. The copper is conveyed from the
coast and from Rua ; the wrought iron from Usukuma,
or the northern states of Unyamwezi, and from Uvira.
All brass ornaments worn in the far interior are manu-
factured by the natives frojn the thick brass wire sold
by caravans. Though iron ore is abundant — even
cropping above the ground in scores of places between
Unyamwezi and Ujiji — yet it is seldom worked ; though
there are instances, in Ukonongo and Uvinza, where
the natives smelt the ore, and make their own iron.
The diseases by which the natives are commonly
afflicted, west of Unyanyembe, are acute dysentery,
chronic dysentery, cholera morbus, remittent fever,
intermittent fever, or ague, typhoid fever, low con-
tinuous fever, heart disease, rheumatism, paralysis,
small-pox, itch, ophthalmia, sore throat, consumption,
colic, cutaneous eruptions, ulcers, syphilis, gonorrhea,
convulsions, prolapsus ani, umbilical hernia, and
nephritis.
But the great and terrible scourge of East and
Cential Africa is the small-pox. The bleached skulls
of the victims to this fell disease, which lie along every
caravan road, indicate but too clearly tlic havoc it makes
annually, not only among tlie ranks of the several
trading expeditions, but also among the villages of llir
534 • EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
respective tribes. Some caravans are decimated by it,
and villages have been more than half-depopulated.
Dr. Livingstone has saved many a poor life in Africa
by vaccination ; and it is affliction at witnessing the
ravages daily made amongst the people that has com-
pelled him to make an appeal for some vaccine matter
to be sent to him.
The remedies used by the people themselves are
simple herbs, or decoctions of herbs, delivered by the
" waganga," or medicine-men. The medicinal use of
the castor-oil plant is not known ; the oil extracted
from 'the seeds is used only to smear their heads and
bodies with. Emetics are obtained from the bark of a
certain tree, and the Arabs state it to be most powerful.
For nephritic diseases the waganga compound a medi-
cine from the root of a plant, and from the leaves of a
shrub which grows near TJnyamwezi, but whose name
they would never tell me, though I endeavoured to
purchase it with a cloth. Though I have seen a man use
it daily for a month, I never observed it had any effect
on him. Among the Arabs the remedy is gum-mastic,
boiled in water, and a cupful of the liquid taken every
evening before retiring, or a cuj)ful of new milk taken
every morning and evening. For rheumatism the re-
medy is lying down in the sun, or being rubbed briskl}- .
Colic is supposed to be cured by inserting the finger
down the throat, and causing vomiting. For dysentery,
warm stones are employed over the abdomen, and to
the posterior parts. Patients suffering from miasmatic
fevers fold themselves in cloths, and lie down in the sun
imtil perspiration ensnes ; but I have seen this treat-
ment terminate with death among the men of my
own Expedition. In cases of small-pox, quarantine is
rigorously enforced, no one venturing near the patients
6E0GBAPEICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 535
except those who have already suffered from it. Members
of a caravan attacked by the small-pox are excluded
from the society of the healthy, and have special sheds
set apart for them outside of the camp. But the suc-
ceeding caravans contain several reckless young fellows,
who thoughtlessly enter within, and in a few days after-
wards begin to feel ill, and to complain of loss of appe-
tite, pains in the back, and low fever ; and before long
we know they have become victims, and are in their
turn ostracised, and if unable to walk are left to. die,
for no settlement will permit them to approach their
gates, and a caravan cannot halt in the wilderness.
When thus driven from the face of man as one accursed,
he seeks the jungle, witji his store of food and water ;
builds his hut, and there rests until his recovery or death.
Upon leaving the noble park lands and forests of
Unyamwezi, we find ourselves in Ukonongo; famous for
it^wild wood-peach trees, and its fine teak- wood, and
its broad sheets of iron-ore, which crop out frequently
as we journey toward the south and west. The eastern
part of Ukonongo is but a continuation of the park
land of Unyamwezi ; but as wo approach its western
frontier, bordering on Ukawendi, enormous lumpy
ridges rise prominently into view, which serve as a
watershed to the River Mrera, and the numerous oozv,
marshy ravines trending towards the Rikwa Plain.
It is very pretty and agreeable, and, stretching a
point, we might say picturesque, the first view we get
of the blue conical hills, which either rise singly or in
triplets above the far-reaching plain which, so I was
informed, extends across the ]\ungwa River to the
pastoral lands of the Southern Watuta. Many of the
feeders of the Rungwa River take their rise just where
Ukonongo and Ukawendi unite. Several rise in the
now J FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
district of Kasera. I have been informed that the
Rungwa River is as large as the Malagarazi, and that its
principal source is in Central Urori. Dnring the rainy
season this river overflows the plain aronnd it, just
as the Mukondokwa River inundates the Makata Plain.
Hence, Speke, on his map, has a bluish patch, which is
supposed to represent the Rikwa Lagoon ; but much
questioning on this point has failed to elicit any
knowledge of it, save that the plain is covered with
water during the wet season.
If it be true that the Rungwa River rises in Central
Urori, then we must accept the statement that the
Rufiji, or the Ruhwha River, has its sources south-west
of Ubena, as probable, at a group of mountains which
may possibly be the same whence the Chambezi takes
its rise.
South of Ukonongo is the territory of the Watuta ;
south-east are the districts of the Warori : south-w tst
are Ufipa and Karungu ; west is Ukawendi ; north is
TJtakamn, or the southern provinces of Unyamwezi.
Ukawendi we find to be an almost uninhabited
country, with an irregular surface, forested, well drained
by myriads of fine streams, a fertile and a favored land
with an abounding fauna and flora. The only settle-
ments of any importance are those of Mana Msenge, in
the north ; those of Ngondo and Tongwe, in the west, on
the Tanganika ; those of Rusawa, in the centre ; Pum-
buru, in the south, and Utanda, in the south-east.
The more important rivers are the Rugufu, which,
rising in the hilly group near Pumburu, flows parallel
with the lake through a deep valley north, issuing into
the lake south of the Malagarazi. The next is the
Loajeri, which, rising between Kagungu and Pumburu
ranges, issues into the lake near the chief village of
QEOGRAPEICAL AND ETENOGEAPEICAL BEMABKS. 537
TJrimba. There are scores of sucb rivers as the Uwe-
lasia, Signnga, Mviga, and Kivoe.
Ukawendi, ranking third in size among the countries
in the central region, stretches from the Malagarazi
Eiver, from about S. lat. 5° 10' to about S. lat. 6° 18'.
It is bounded on the north by Southern Uvinza and
the Malagarazi River ; on the east by Ugara and
TJkonongo ; on the south by Usowa and Ufipa ; and on
the west by the Tanganika Lake.
Proceeding north from Ukawendi, we arrive in
Southern Uvinza, a country much cut up by deep
ravines, of a mountainous and ruo-nred character, inter-
sected in all directions by dun-colored lines of naked
ridges. In the alluvial valley of the Malagarazi are
numerous salt-pans, out of which the natives extract
considerable quantities of salt. There are but few
streams flowing through it. Among the special pro-
ductions are goats and grain.
Crossing the ^lalagarazi, we come to a lengthy,
latitudinal strip of poor country, called Northern
Uvinza, The soil is poor, nourishing but a sparse
jungle of gums, thorns, tamarind, mimosa, and a few
stunted specimens of teak. The salt plains are exten-
sive, and the possession and exclusive right to these
are fruitful subjects of contention between the two
gi'cat chiefs, Lokanda Mira and Nzogera.
The Malagarazi at its head-waters is known as tlie
Northern Gombe. -As it flows through extensive
Salinas, its waters have a slightly saline taste, but not
disajriecablv so. It falls into the Tanj^anika, south
of Ujiji Bunder. I believe it is navigable by boats all
the way from the lake to Wilyankuru. I know it is
navigable thus far in the raiuy season.
Northern Uvin/a is bounded by the pastoral country
»
538 now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONK
of TJlilia on the north ; on the east by TJkalaganza and
Usagozi, or Western Unyamwezi ; on the south by the
Malagarazi ; and on the west by Ukaranga.
Its principal settlements are Mpete, Usenye, Yambeho,
Siala, Isinga, Nzogera's Island, and Lokanda Mira's
district. The chief productions are goats, sheep, grain,
and salt.
From Uvinza we proceed to TJhha. This latter is
an immense plain comitry, similar in appearance to
our prairies of Nebraska. It is known under the two
divisions, Kimenyi and Antari. Uhha, in its most exten-
sive sense, is bounded on the north by Ututa, on the south
and east by Uvinza, on the west by Ukaranga and Ujiji.
The range of mountains which are said to form the
divisional line between Uhha and Ututa give birth to
two streams of note, the Rusugi and Rugufu. Other
streams are called Sunuzzi, Kanengi, and Pombwe.
Mostly all these streams that run through Uhha are
slightly brackish, especially the Pombwe, Kanengi, and
the Rusugi. *
The denuded plains of Uhha support large herds of
hump-backed cattle and broad-tailed sheep. The goats
are also very fine. The soil is fertile, and produces
fine crops of Holcus sorghum and maize. The climate
is good, and the heat is tempered by the breezes of the
Tanganika and the winds of Usagnra.
The small lakes or large pools of Uhha are a
conspicuous feature. They occupy extensive but
shallow circular depressions, or basins. Evidences are
not wanting to prove that at one time or another much
of Uhha was inundated, and that the valley of the
IMalagarazi River was nothing but a deep arm of the
Tanganika. An accomplished geologist would find
subjects of surpassing interest in this region.
OEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL -REMARKS. 539
Proceeding westward, and crossing the small stream
Simuzzi, we arrive in Ukaranga, a country exceedingly
diversified in its character. North, as it joins Northern
Uhha, it is mountainous ; south, it is a lengthy smooth
slope, covered with tall teak trees ; in the centre it
consists of rolling hills, drained by swift, clear streams
— a fertile and delightful district. From the east, a
number of parallel ridges, all tree-clad*, strike out at
right angles westward from the main range which
separates North-eastern Uhha fj-om Ukaranga, and
subside suddenly as they approach the alluvial valley
of the Liuche.
The trees of Ukaranga are principally teak, the
mbugu, and bamboo. The climate is exceedingly soft
and moist. A constant drizzle seems to be pouring
over the tops of the Ukaranga ridges, whence arise the
numerous streams that discharge themselves into the
Liuche.
From the heights of Ukaranga we descend into the
Liuche valley, and find ourselves in Ujiji, a district of
surpassing beauty and fertility, and come in vieAv of
that mighty inland sea wliose shores must from lience-
forth be considered sacred, for " the place that a good
man has trod remains hallowed to all time." And,
indeed, nature has assisted us in the love which we
now feel for the classic lands borderinc: the Tanfranika.
No man, however prosaic his nature, can stand on the
beach of Ujiji, and look westward across the broad
belt of silver waters at sunset, without being affected,
in the innermost recesses of his heart, at ihe display of
colors which the sun reveals on the face of the lieaven
in which he is set. The ethereal colors come and £2:0
with the rapidity of magic. They are of gold and
azui-e, })ink and silver, purple and saffron ; in thin lines
*
540 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
and broad bars, cirri and cumuli are transformed into
burnished flaming gold ; they reflect their refulgence
on the gigantic blue-black barrier which bounds the
Tanganika westward ; they reveal the whole panorama
of mountains, spread over them lovely rosy hues, and
bathe them in a flood of silver light.
The most remai'kable tribe in Central Africa are the
Wanyamwezi. A beau-ideal of a Mnyamwezi to me
will be a tall long-limbed black man, with a good-
natured face, always with a broad smile upon it ;
'displaying in the centre of the upper row of teeth
a small hole, which was cut out when he was a boy, to
denote his tribe ; with hundreds of long wiry ringlets
hanging down his neck ; almost naked ; giving me a
full view of a form which would make an excellent
model for a black Apollo. I have seen many of this
tribe in the garb of the freedmen of Zanzibar, sporting
a turban of new American sheeting, or wearing the
long dishdasheh (shirt) of the Arab, presenting as fine
and intelligent an appearance as any Msawahili fiom the
Zanguebar coast ; but I cannot rid myself of my ideal.
A Mnyarawezi is the Yankee of Africa ; he is a born
trader and traveller. From days inunemorial his tribe
has monopolized the carrying of goods from one
country to another. The Mnyamwezi is the camel, the
horse, the mule, and the ass — the beast of burden to
which all travellers anxiously look to convey his
luggage from the coast to the far African interior.
The Arab can go no vIk re without his help ; the white
traveller, bound on an exploiing trip, cannot travel
without him. He is generally Ibund in great numbers
at Bagamoyo, Konduclii, Kaole, Dar Salaam, and Kilwa,
waiting to be hired for a long voyage. He is like the
sailor, having his habitat in certain sailors' boarding-
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 541
houses in great seaport towns ; and, like the sailor, is
a restless rover. The sea-coast to a Mnyamwezi is like
New York to an English sailor. At New York the
English sailor can re-ship with higher pay, so can the
Mnyamwezi re-hire himself on the coast, for a return
trip, at a higher rate than from Unyamwezi to the sea.
He is in such demand, and during war time so scarce,
that his pay is great, ranging from thirty-six yards of
cloth to one'liundred yards. A hundred of these human
bete^de somme will readily cost the traveller 10,000 yarOs
of cloth, even as far as Uuyauyembe, a three months'
journey. 10,000 yards of cloth at Zanzibar represent
$5,000 in gold. But with patience and rigid economy
the same number may be procured for 83,000.
The Wanyamwezi, weighted with the bales of
Zanzibar, containing cottons and domestics from
Massachusetts, calicoes from England, prints from Muscat,
cloths from (.'utch, beads from Germany, brass wire
from Great Britain, may be found on the Lualaba, in
the forests of Ukawendi, on the hills of Uganda, the
mountains of Karagwah, on the plains of Urori, on the
plateau of Ugogo, in the park lands of Ukonongo, in
the swamps of Useguhha, the defiles of Usagara, in the
wilderness of Ubena, among the pastoral tribes of the
Watuta, trudging along the banks of the Rufiji, in slave-
trading Kil\v;i — everywhere throughout Central Africa.
"While journeying with caravans, they are docile and
tractable ; in their villages they are a merry-making
set ; on trading expeditions of their own they are keen
and clever ; as Ruga-Ruga they are unscrupulous and
bold ; in Ukonongo and Ukawendi they are hunters ;
in Usukuma they are drovers and iron-smelters ; in
Lunda they are energetic searchers for ivory ; on the
coast they are a wondering and awe-struck people.
♦
512 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The Wanyamwezi, I fear, are dying cut, or tliey
have emigrated to distant pai ts ; but I base my first
statement upon the large tracts of their country that
are desolated, such as Mgongo Tenibo, Rubuga, Kigwa,
Utanda, Mfuto, Masange, "Wilyankuru. Such uneasy,
dissatisfied spirits as Manwa Sera, Niongo, Mirambo,
and Oseto tend by the constant strife they are engaged
in to materially depopulate Unyamwezi. The hardships
of travel on the gristle of tlie race are not favorable
to its multiplication. Eight out of ten of the bleached
skulls seen along the paths of commerce in the interior
are those of the unfortunate Wanyamwezi wlio have
succumbed to the perils and privations attending the
footsteps of every caravan. Slavery, with its abomina-
tions, assists in their demoralization and extermination.
It is sad to think that huch people should perish from
the earth, as the warrior race of the Makololo have,
even within the memory of man, since Livingstone first
sighted Liuyanti. What a power in the laud might
not a philanthropic government make of these people !
What a glorious testimony to the charity of civilization
might they not become ! What docile converts to the
Gospel truths, through a practical missionary, would
they not make !
Great is the power of "uganga" — medicine — in
Unyamwezi. I was reported to be able to make rain, to
be able to poison all the wells in the country, to kill all
Mirambo's people with a medicinal preparation, until I
took the trouble to deny all such power as was attributed
to me. At first they would bring their sick to me — the
ulcerous, the syphilitic, sufferers from the itch and the
small-pox, the consumptive, and those afHicted with
dysentery — until they all finally became convinced by
my earnestness that I could do nothing for them. One
GEOGRAFHICAL AND ETENOGEAPEICAL llEMARKS. 543
old. man, suffering from chronic dysentery, brought me
a fine fat sheep and a dish of choroko — vetches — for
medicine to cure his disease. I might have taken the
sheep, and given him a worthless compound, but I told
him at once that I could do nothing for his sickness.
I gave Ijim, however, about one hundred grains of
Dover's powders, and a couple of doti of good cloth to
cover himself and wife with, but refused his sheep, I
felt so much for the man's sufferings.
No himting expedition of Wanyamwezi starts with-
out having consulted the niganga — medicine-man —
who, for a consideration, supplies them with charms,
potions, herbs, and blessings. A bit of the ear of a
zebra, the blood of a lion, the claw of a leopard, the lip of
a buffalo, the tail of a giraffe, the eyebrow of a harte-
beest, are treasures not to be parted with save for a
monetary value. To their necks are suspended a bit of
quartz, polished and of a triangular shape, and pieces of
carved wood, and an all-powerful talisman in the shape
of a plant sewn up jealously in a small leathern
pursue.
The Wanyamwezi as a race are arrant cowards.
Their caravans steal through Ugogo humbly enough,
but, when out of that dreaded country, they make a
great blustering show amongst other tribes. During
war-time in their country their custom is never to
engage themselves to caravans. Their chiefs discourage
all trading enterprises, and the commands of their elders
are laws.
The system of government is an hereditary monarchy
in Unyamwezi. The King is allied Mtemi. Except in
Unyanyembe, Usagozi, and Ugala, no chief in Unya-
mwezi deserves that title, though it is given by courtesy
to the chiefs of districts. The j^reseut King of I'nya-
544
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
nyembe is Mkasiwa ; Pakalambula is King of Ugara ;
and " Moto," or Fire, of Usagozi.
Mkasiwa can raise 3,000 warriors in Unyanyembe
out of a population of nearly 20,000 people. The
small districts of Tabora and Kwihara could alone
supply 1,500 warriora.
There are some curious customs among the Wanya-
mwezi. When a child is born the father cuts the caul,
and travels with it to the frontier of his district, and
there deposits it under the ground ; if the frontier is
a stxeam, he buries it on the banks ; then taking the
root of a tree, he conveys it on his return, and buries it
at the threshold of his door. He then invites his friends
to a feast which he has prepared. He kills an ox, or half
a dozen goats, and distributes pombe. If twins are born,
they never kill one, but rather think it a greater bless-
ing. The mother, when approaching childbirth, hastens
to the woods, and is there attended by a female friend.
The marriage ceremonies are similar to those amongst
the Wagogo. The wife is purchased from her father
for cows or goats, according to the means of the several
parties.
Witchcraft, devoted to evil pur[)0ses, is punished
with death. The same ceremony in vogue among the
Wagogo, concerning the detection and conviction of
miscreants, is similar to the custom in Unyamwezi.
Crimes against the state and the community are also
punished with death. A detected thief, with the evi-
dences of his guilt on him, may be either slaughtered
on the spot, or, according to the judgment of the Mtemi,
or King, become the slave of the owner of the property
he has attempted to defraud.
After death, the Wanyamwezi remove the body
either into the jungle, or, if a person of importance,
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. 543
bury it in a sitting posture, or on its side, as the
"Wagogo. On the march the body is merely thrown
aside, and left for a prey to the hyaena, the cleanest
sf-avonger of the forest. The Sultan is buried within
the village.
The Northern Wanyamwezi are a very industrious
people. Their iron they themselves smelt, and manu-
facture almost all the hoes from the Tanganilva to
Usagara. No caravan returns from Unyanyembe with-
out purchasing hoes, with which they pay the l eturn
tribute to the "Wagogo. The iron ware thus im^jorted
serves for a multitude of instruments to the eastern and
western tribes; from it they manufacture their spears,
arrowheads, billhooks, and war hatchets. In Unyan-
yembe may be often seen the native artizan peddling
his deadly instruments for cloth. Two yards will buy
a new spear, or a dozen arrows ; four yards of sheeting
will purchase a first-class bow, ornamented with brass
and copper wire ; and two yards will purchase a for-
midable-looking hatchet. This last weapon, as may be
seen from the illustrations in this book, is similar to
that used by the Picts in the stone age, and by the
Romans and Egyptians in their early historical periods,
and is uniform with that used fiom Bagamoyo to San
Salvador — from Nubia to Kaffir-land.
The Deity in Kinyamwezi is called Miringu ; in
Kigogo he is called Mulungu ; in Kisawahili, Mienzi
Mungu. The "Wanyamwezi regard him as the dispenser
of wealth, and the Creator. He is seldom entreated,
save for adding to their worldly wealth. When death
has taken away a member of the family in Unyamwezi,
it is said by the relatives of the deceased that the
" Miringu has taken him or her ;" oi-, " lie or she is
lost." " It is God's work." And the tone of awe with
2 N
546 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
which they speak of it implies also " that it is marvellous
in their eyes,"
" Can a maid forget her ornaments, or a bride her
attire ?" It seems not in Unyamwezi. From the hour
that she begins to call for " mamma " her ornaments are
her constant solicitude. She loves to look at the pretty
wristlets of red, yellow, white, and green beads which
appear in such contrast against the dark hue of her
skin ; she loves to twine her fingers through the lengthy
necklaces of variegated beads that are susj)ended from
her neck, or to play with the bead belt that encompasses
her waist ; she even sets them in her hair, and loves to
be told that they become her. It is a pleasure with her
to possess a spiral wire cincture, even though she
possesses no garment to be supported by it. She awaits
with impatience the day when she can be married, and
have a cloth to fold around her body — until she can
have authority to dispose of her fowls for the cheap
tinsel vended by Arab merchants.
The ladies' tea-parties in Anglo-Saxon lands seem to
have had an early, origin. They were in vogue, or at
least there were gatherings similar to them, when Egypt
stood highest in the list of civilized nations. Who has
studied the pictures of ancient Egypt on the walls of
recovered Memphis, and has not seen the ladies' social
circle ? I have seen these symposia in Abyssinia — that
land so tenacious of ancient customs. A ladies' party
may be seen in Unyamwe?:;i, also; and seldom have I be-
held anything so approaching to happiness and perfect
contentment as the faces of the old and young women
of a Kinyamwezi tembe, as they have gathered together
near sunset from the various houses to sit and chat
together of the events of the day, on the very trite
subjects of interest that a Kinyamwezi social circle can
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS 547
have to converse about. Each female has her short
stool and her growing daughter by her side, who, while
the mother chats and smokes with her face radiant with
contentment, employs her nimble hands in converting
her parent's woolly locks into a series of plaits and
ringlets. The elder females, squatted in a circle, begin
to recite their experiences, chattering away like swallows :
one tells how her cow has stopped giving milk ; another,
hoAv well she has sold her milk to the white man ;
another, of her experiences in the field while she was
hoeing ; another, of how her master has not yet returned
from the Kinj^amwezi capital, whither he had gone with
some grain to sell.
While the village matrons indulge in harmless gossip,'
the paterfamilias may be found in the Young Men's
Gossip Institute, or the Exchange, where the prices
of things and the politics of the district they live
in are discussed, with perhaps as much acumen and
sense as other things are in like places in more
civilized lands. This public assembly room in a Ki-
nyamwezi village is called in the dialect " Wanza," or
" Uwanza," and is generally situated on one side of the
. square area within the village. During idle times —
and it is seldom there are busy times — they smoke, sit
on their heels, and have a discussion on perhaps the
very same topics we have just heard the matrons talk
• about : most probably the topic is the white man wno
has just arrived. "We may rest assured that, if it is the
white man, it is a most interesting subject; though,
however interesting it is, and however great their
curiosity to know all .about him, they are never so
impertinent as to doubt the fact of his being a white
man, or to dispute his statements, as certain peo])lo
calling themselves civilized have been pleased to do.
548 , HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
A man lias a spear to sharpen, or a sword to decorate,
or an axe helve to make, or a pipe to smoke, or gossip
to impart, and he enters the Wanza to do it. If the
place is deserted he hurries through his work, and seeks
tlie group under the large tree almost always found
in a village, where, under its shade, he can indulge his
love for intellectual conversation. What the Agora
was to Athens, and the Exchange is to the modern
capitals of civilization, the "Wanza- is to a village in
TJnyamwezi.
The Wanyamwezi, as may be gathered from the
above remarks, are addicted to smoking. By glancing
at the illustrations of the various kinds of pij)es it will
be noticed that they display considerable skill in their
manufacture, and it will be observed also that the
style of them is very similar to that of the North
American Indian pipes. While our Indians employ
red steatite for their pipes the Wanyamwezi use black
steatite, which is found in Western Usukuma. But as
this soft stone is somewhat difiScult to obtain they
manufacture them out of black mud, mixed with finely-
chopped straw. The tobacco of Unyamwezi is not of
a superior kind. They manufacture it into the same
form as the tobacco loaves of Abyssinia. A doti, or
four yards of cloth, will purchase a three-pound loaf ;
and a pipe made of black steatite, and stem highly orna-
mented with fine brass or copper wire, may be obtained
for the same quantity of cloth.
The natives are also very fond of using bhang with
their tobacco. Tlieir narghileh is a very primitive
affair, made out of a gourd and a hollow stick. One or
two inhalations are sufficient to send any of them into a
series of horrible coughs, which seem to rack their
frames. They, however, delight in this, for frequently
GEOGBAPEICAL AND ETUNOGEAPHICAL REMARKS. 649
they affect it; but it is impossible to describe tlie
irritabib'ty and disgust which their noisy, harsh, grating
cough provokes.
The Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe own several herds
of cattle. In whichever country cattle are seen, one
may take it for granted that it is seldom invaded.
Between the coast and Ujiji, cattle were found only in
Usagara, Ugogo, Unyanyembe, and Uhha ; all other
countries reared only goats, sheep, and chickens. Some
of the wealthier Arabs of Unyanyembe possess large
herds of cattle, and have as many as forty and fifty
milch cows, but there are few Wanyamwezi who possess
more than thirty. A milch cow is worth from twenty
to thirty doti, or 80 to 120 yards of sheeting ; though
in Usukuma one may be purchased for from two to four
doti. Half a gallon of milk is considered good milking
for a cow ; but this is not often the case : I should say
the average produce was three pints. I was accustomed
to have one gallon of milk supplied to me every day
for ten days for four yards of cloth, given in the shape
of a kitambi, or a colored cloth. With this supply of
milk I was accustomed to make my own butter and
clieese, and in Unyanyembe tiiey were the greatest
luxuries a white man could have.
This tribe are, like all negroes, great lovers of music.
It is true that it is barbarous, and becomes monotonous
after a while, but the best of their musicians can always
make it aumsing. Many of them are great imjjro-
visers ; the latest scandal, or political news or personal
gossip, is sure, if it is of sufficient public interest, to
find expression in village music. Within a week after
thu declaration of war by Mirambo, there was not a
village throughout Unyamwezi which did not at evening
have Mirambo, somehow or another, mentioned in theii
550
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
songs; and as they were all well-known tunes in that
part of the country, the name of this now famous king
had been interpolated instead of the one previously
used. The Musungu, or Muzungu, as it is sometimes
pronounced, was also a favorite subject upon first
arrival, but this soon lacked novelty.
The food of these natives, as indeed of all throughout
Central Africa, consists of flour of matama — the Holms
sonjhum, or tlie Arabic dourra, or dura, converted into
a kind of thick porridge, which is simply a scalded mess.
This is accompanied with leaves of garden plants, such
as the bean and the cucumber-plant, which are boiled
and mashed up. They seldom eat meat, as it would be
too expensive, and tliere are many animals from which
they are averse. They will eat the foetus and entrails
with rare relish, and if they can obtain meat at another's
expense they are very apt to gorge themselves. In my
caravan, when I succeeded in my hunts, the Wanyamwezi
would sit up all night to finish their portion of meat,
as if it were a sacred duty with them. The mush of
America, made of Indian corn, is well known throughout
all Central Africa. When this humble meal is cooked
the males of the family assemble around their pot, and
scooping out a large handful, dip it into the mess of
greens, or ghee, and cram it into their mouths. The
females eat separately, it being derogatory to male dig-
nity to be seen eating with female relatives.
Very old age is unusual in Central Africa. Grey hair
and stooping backs are to be seen in almost every village.
The oldest people I saw were in Ugogo and Unya-
nyembe — ancient, secure, and well-established countries.
I should estimate the age of Magomba, Sultan of
Kanyenyi, at near ninety: in 1858 — fourteen years ago
— Capt. Burton mentions him as old and decrepit. He
GEOGRAPniCAL AND ETENOGBAPHICAL REMARKS. 551
lives yet, but is unable to walk far without assistance.
His eldest son, Kisewah, must be considerably ovei
sixty, and bis youngest son, Mtundu Ngondeh, near fifty.
The Saltan of Mizanza, who slew Sny bin Amer, the
friend of Burton and Speke, in my opinion cannot be
much under eighty ; and Penibera Pereh, chief of
Nyambwa, must be of the same age.
I regard the Wakonongo and the Wa-kawendi as
belonging formerly to the same race as the Wanya-
mwezi ; their languages, manners, and customs are
identical. But when we cross the Malagarazi, and
enter Uvinza, we find ourselves among different people •
and in describing the Waviuza's manners and customs
I include the Wajiji, Wakaranga, Warundi, Wavira,
Watuta, and Watusi.
The greeting which we hear upon our arrival in
Uvinza tells us of new tribes, and new customs, to
which we are about to be introduced. It is a most
tedious ceremony, a first introduction between two
Wavinza. As they advance tliey stretch out both
hands to one another, uttering the words " Wake,
wake ;" then, grasping each other by the elbows, they
begin to rub each other's arms, saying rapidly, " T^'ake,
wake, waky, waky,"ending with grunts of " Huh, huh,"
which imply mutual satisfaction. The women greet the
males — even half-grown youths — by bending their
backs forward until the tips of their fingers rest on the
toes of their feet, or in turning their bodies sideways,
clapping their hands, exclaiming, " Wake, wake, waky
waky; Huh, huh;" and the males reply by clapping
their hands, and responding with the same words.
The dress of all these people, if they are not rich
enough to purchase cloth from travelling caravans, or
skilful enough in the manufacture of their own cloths.
552 now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
like the Wajiji and Warundi, consists of a goat-skin,
suspended by a knot fastened over the shoulder, and
falling over one side of their bodies.
For ornaments they affect the solid brass rings around
their ankles or wrists, or the kitindi (brass wire, which
is twisted into a spiral coil). The polished tusks of the
boar, or a polished piece of thin and curved ivory, are
favourite ornaments for the neck throughout the dis-
tricts of Uvinza, Uhha, TJjiji, and Urundi.
AN IDOL.
The Wajiji are skilful manufacturers of their own
cloth, from the cotton which tliey cultivate, and it is
similar in texture to the Mexican Scrape. They are a
superstitious race, like tlie Wakaranga. In Niamtaga,
near the gate of the village, I saw their tutelar deity,
which was the carved head of a man in wood, painted.
The face was colored white, with black staring eyes,
OEOGBAPEICAL AND ETHNOQBAPHICAL REMARKS. 553
the figure had square upright shoulders, and a kind
of head-dress painted a yellow color. Each man or
woman, upon entering at the gate, bowed profoundly
to the idol, as Koman Catholics do before the image
of the Blessed Virgin.
The Wajiji believe that they have power over the
crocodiles ; that they are so friendly with those amphi-
bious reptiles that they can compel them to do whatever
they wish. There is a report current in TJjiji that there
is a crocodile, as learned as the seal of Barnum's Museum
in New York, which obeys the commands of his friends
implicitly, even to taking a man out of his house into
the lake, or to travelling into a crowded market, and
detecting a thief out of a large assembly of natives.
The caverns of Kabogo, on the western side of the lake,
are a horror to the Wajiji, who, whenever they pass
that terrible place, think to mollify the angry god of
the lake by throwing beads and cloth into the waters.
They report that this is necessary, and that the god has
a preference for white (Merikani) beads ; and the
Wangwana of Zanzibar and the Arabs must comply
with this traditional custom ere the Wajiji will pull
oars across. In passing Bemba, also, every boat must
chip a certain portion of the pipe-clay ere it can be
assured of a fortunate voyage. That it has been a
custom complied with for generations is evident by the
enormous excavation they have made in the chalk cliff.
No more varied customs have I observed anywhere in
regard to the dressing of the hair than I have seen in
Urundi and TJjiji. Tt is either shaved off" entirely, or left
in diagonal and horizontal lines ; or in combs, ridges,
tufts, stripes, little curls on the temple and forehead ; or
in front bands, and sometimes in narrow wavy or straight
lines : from which we may conclude that the friseur's is
651
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
a high art in savage as in civilized lands. And in the
ornamentation of their bodies by tattooing they are
superior to other tribes. You will find a tattooed wheel
encircling the navel, and around each bosom ; on the
arms the tattooing marks are in wavy lines, or con-
centric folds, or in lines running diagonally across the
chest to the shoulder ; in bracelets around the wrist ;
then from left shoulder to right hip, from right shoulder
to left hip, over the stomach, in a most intricate system
of lines wavy and horizontal ; and over the abdomen in
great blotch pieces, with no design whatever. The
operation of tattooing, though, must be a painful one.
if one may judge from the immense blisters raised after
the punctures.
Nothing limits the vanity of the negro for ornament
except poverty. Those able to afford the expense wear
as many as thirty and forty necklaces of sami-sami,
Merikaui, sofi, or pipe-stem beads, kadunduguru, and the
pink beads. I refer to the Wajiji and Warundi, more
especially the latter. Suspended to their necks are the
thin curved pieces of ivory, hippopotamus teeth, and
boar tusks ; and at the back of the neck heavy pieces of
carved ivory. Some wear attached to their necks long
narrow miniature bells of native iron, twisted iron wire,
and charms, or white polished stones or shells, as
amulets. Encircling their wrists are armlets of sami-
sami or blue mutunda, which latter is a favourite bead ;
belts of these beads also surround their waists.
Their clothing consists of a tanned goat, calf, or
sheep skin, dyed with the reddish porous clay swept down
the ravines by the rivulets. These hide-garments are
further ornamented with black lines, spots, and circles,
after the manner in vogue amongst our American
Indians.
, GEOORAPBICAL AND ETENOORAPHICAL REMARKS. 555
Like the Wagogo, and perhaps to a greater extent,
the "Warundi are fond of ochre on their bodies. Besides
rubbing their bodies witli this clay, which considerably
lightens the color, they daub their faces, heads, eyelids,
and eyebrows a deep red with it.
Their women are in the habit of tying down tlieir
long purse-like breasts upon their chests with a cord
twined round their bodies. They carry for defence, or
from habit, long sticks, which are sometimes decorated
with a small figure of a lizard, or a crocodile, on the
head.
The tribes bordering the lake carry heavy spears for
close action, or for quartering a man, and light assegai,
which they are able to throw most accurately fifty and
seventy yards. The bows are shorter than those used
\y the Wanyamwezi and Wakonongo, but the arrows
are the same, though more skilfully and tastefully made.
The Wabembe, or the "Wavembe — the cannibals
who inhabit the rugged range of mountains west of
the Tanganika, and opposite North-eastern Urundi — are
a people seldom seen by travellers on the lake. They
seem to infer, from their own practices, that other
people eat their kind, and when boats with Arabs and
Wangwana appear in their vicinity they keep close
to their own mountain villages. It is said, though
I do not vouch for the truth of the report, that
when they have known an Arab merchant to have a
sickly or a moribund slave, they have oflered to pur-
chase him for grain and vegetables ; that when they
have seen an unusually fat freedman of Zanzibar,
they have put their hands to their mouths, and ex-
claimed, with astonishment, " C/iukula, mjcina stma^
hapal CItumvi mengiT — Food, good, indeed, here!
Salt plenty !
o5e EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
The Wasansi — or Basansi, as Dr. Livingstone thinks
they should be called — are neighbors of the Wabembe,
and I fear thej must be classed with the man-eaters of
Ubembe. The Wasansi were those who at Cape
Luvumba made such a disturbance with the Doctoi
and myself because of the murder of the son of Sultan
Kisesa by Khamis, the Baluch, and who declared to us
they never wished to behold another " Murungwana " —
Zanzibar freeman. Positively, I never beheld such
DAQGERS AND SPEAR-HEADS.
excitement in my life as these people exhibited when
they saw one of my soldiers cutting up a goat for
distribution. They seemed to be attacked with a kind
of frenzy at the sight of the meat, such as one might
expect from any hungry carnivorous animal. They
implored with wild eyes for the smallest portion ; they
fought among themselves when one of my men threw a
piece into a crowd ; they eagerly gathered the clotted
GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETENGGEAPEICAL REMABKS 557
blood of the goat from the ground, and gazed with an
esurient avidity at every mouthful of meat a man ate.
"Whatever may be true respecting the man-eating pro-,
pensities of the Wabembe, I feel assured that the Wasansi
are cannibals.
The Manyuema are the cleverest manufacturers of
weapons, as may be seen by the foregoing sketch of
daggers and spear-heads.
558
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
CHAPTER XY.
OUR JOURNEY FROM UJIJI TO UNYANYEMBH.
We fcH quite at home wlien we sat down on our black
bear-skin, gay Persian carpet and clean new mats, to
rest with our backs to the wall, sipping our tea with the
air of comfortable men, and chat over the incidents
of the " picnic," as Livingstone persisted in calling our
journey to the Ilusizi. It seemed as if old times, which
we loved to recall, had come back again, though our
»
Dec. l^^TL] OUB JOURNEY TO VNYANYEMBE. 559
house was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants
were only naked barbarians ; but it was near this house
that I had met him — Livingstone — after that eventful
march from Unyanyerabe ; it was on this same veranda
that I listened to that wonderful story of his about tliose
far, enchanting regions west of the Lake Tangatiika ; it
was in this same spot that I first became acquainted
witli him ; and ever since my admiration has been
growing for him, and I feel elated when he informs
me that he must go to Unyanyembe under my escort,
and at my expense. The old mud walls and the bare
rafters, and tlie ancient thatched roof, and this queer-
looking old veranda, will have an historical interest for
me while I live, and so, while I can, I have taken
pains and .immortalized the humble old building by a
sketch.
I have just said that my admiration for Livingstone
has been growing. This is'true. The man that I was
about to interview so calmly and complacently, as I
would interview any prominent man with the view of
specially delineating his nature, or detailing his ojjinions,
has conquered me. Shall I tell you what I intended
to do ? It is true as the gospel. I intended to interview
him, report in detail what he said, picture his life and
his figure, then bow him my " au revoir" and march
back. That he was specially disngreeable and brusque
in his manner, which would make me quarrel with him
immediately, was fiimly fixed in my mind. Besides,
he was au Englishman — perhaps a man who used an
eye-glass, through which he would glare at me fero-
ciously or icily — both amounting to the same thing —
and like the young cornet of the Scinde Horse in Abys-
sinia, ask me deliberately, after retreating from me
several paces, " Whom have I the honor to address?"
«
560 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
or like tha{ ancient general at Senafe, Sir ,
who snorted out, " Well, sir, who are you ? What do you
want here ?" Indeed, the results of my acquaintance
with Euglish gentlemen were such, that I should not
have heen surprised if he had said, " Might I ask you,
sir, if you have a letter of introduction for me ?" But
what a question this had been on the shores of Lake
Tanganika ! I would have just ordered a retreat to the
hill above Ujiji ; there rested for two days, and then
returned, to tell the world how I had been snubbed.
But Livingstone — true, noble Christian, generous-
hearted, frank man — acted like a hero, invited me
to his house, said he was glad to see me, and got well
on purpose to prove the truth of his statement, " You
have brought new life unto- me ;" and when I fell sick
with the remittent fever, hovering between life and
death, he attended me like a father, and we ha\ e now
been together for more than a month. Can you wonder
that I like this man, whose face is the reflex of his
nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness, whose aims
are so high, that I break out impetuously sometimes :
" But your family. Doctor, they would like to see you,
oh ! so much. Let me tempt you to come home witli me.
I promise to carry you every foot of the way to the
coast. You shall have the finest donkey to ride that is
in Unyanyembe. Your wants — you have but to hint
them, and they shall be satisfied. Let the sources of
the Nile go — do you come home and rest ; then, after
a year's rest, and restored health, you can return and
finish what you have to do."
But ever the answer was, " No, I should like to see
my family very much indeed. My cliildren's letters
affect me intensely; but I must not go home; I must
finish my task. It is only the want of supplies that
Dec. 1871.]
OUR JOUE'NET TO UNTANYEMBE.
561
has detained me. I should have finished the discovery
of the Nile by this, by tracing it to its connection with
either Baker's Lake, or Petherick's branch of the Nile.
If I had only gone one month further, I could have
said, ' the work is done.' But Dr. Kirk has kept
on sending me slaves over and over again ; and he
ought to know, too, what slaves are. Why he
should have gone to Banyans for men I can't make
out."
Some of these men who had turned the Doctor back
from his interesting discoveries were yet in TJjiji, and
had the Government Enfield rifles in their hands, which
they intended to retain until their wages had been paid
to them ; but as they had received $60 advance
each at Zanzibar from the English Consul, with the
understanding entered into by contract that they should
follow their master wherever he required them to
go ; and as they had not only not gone where they
were required to proceed with him, but had baffled and
thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few men
should triumph over the Doctor, by keeping the arms
given 'to him by the Bombay Government. I had
listened to the Arab sheikhs, friends of the Doctor,
advising them in mild tones to give them up ; I had
witnessed the mutineers' stubbornness; and it was then,
on the burzani of Sayd bin Majid's house, {hat I took
advantage to open my mind on the subject, not only
for tlie benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the
benefit of the Arabs ; and to tell them that it was well
that I had found Livingstone alive, for if they had but
injured a hair of his head, I should have gone back to
the coast, to return with a party which would enable
me to avenge him. I had been waiting to see Living-
2 0
562 , BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
stone's guns returned to him every clay, hoping that I
should not liave to use force ; but when a month or
more had elapsed, and still the arms had not been
returned, I applied for permission to take them, which
was granted. Susi, the gallant servant of Dr. Living-
stone— who would have been ^^rth his weight in silver
if he were not an incorrigible thief — was immediately
despatched with about a dozen armed men to recover
them, and in a few minutes we had possession of them,
without further trouble.
The Doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unya-
nyembe, in order to meet his stores, which had been
forwarded from Zanzibar, November 1st, 1870, by the
British Consul. As I had charge of the escort, it was
my duty to study well the several routes to Unya-
nyembe from Ujiji. I was sufficiently aware of the
difficulties and the responsibilities attached to me
while escorting such a man. Besides, my own personal
feelings were involved in the case. If Livingstone
came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine
while he was with me, it would immediately be said,
" Ah ! had he not accompanied Stanley, he would have
been alive now."
I took out my chart — the one I had made myself —
in which I had perfect faith, and I sketched out a
route which would enaWe us to reach Unyanyembe
without paying a single cloth as tribute, and without
encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which
we could avoid all the Wavinza and the plundering
AVahha. And this peaceable, secure route led by
water, soiiin, along the coast of Ukaranga and Uka-
wendi, to Cape Tongwe. Arriving at Cape Tongwe,
I should be opposite the village of Itaga, Sultan Imrera,
Dec. 1871.] OUR JOURNET TO UNTANYEMBE.
563
in the district of Eusawa of Ukawendi ; after wliicli we
should strike mj old road, which I had traversed from
Unyanjerabe, when bound for Ujiji. I explained it to
the Doctor, and he instantly recognised its feasibility
and security ; and if I struck Imrera, as I proposed to
do, it would demonstrate whether my chart was correct
or not.
We arrived at Ujiji from our* tour of discovery, north
of the Tanganika, December 13th; and from this date
the Doctor commenced writing his letters to his nume-
rous friends, and to copy into his mammoth Letts's
Diary, from his field books, the valuable information
he had acquired during his years of travel south and
west of the Tanganika. I sketched him while sitting
in his shirt-sleeves in the veranda, with his Letts's
Diary on his knee ; and the likeness on the other page
is an admirable portrait of him, because the artist who
has assisted me has, with an intuitive eye, seen the
defects in my own sketch ; and by this I am enabled to
restore him to the reader's view exactly as I saw him —
as he pondered on what he had witnessed during his
long marches.
Soon after my arrival at Ujiji, he had rushed to his
paper, and indited that letter to James Gordon
Bennett, Esq., wherein he has recorded his thanks ;
and after he had finished it, I asked him to add the
word " Junior " to it, as it was young Mr. Bennett to
whom he was indebted. I thought the letter admirable,
and requested the Doctor not to add another word to
it. The feelings of his heart had found expression in
the grateful words he had written ; and if I judged
Mr. Bennett rightly, I knew he would be satisfied with
it. For it was not the news he cared 89 much about,
as the grand fact of Livingstone's being'alive or dead.
564
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
In this latter part of December he was writing letters
to his children, to Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord
Granville. He had intended to have written to the
Earl of Clarendon, but it was my sad task to inform
him of the death of that distinguished nobleman.
In the meantime I was preparing the Expedition for
its return march to Unyanyembe, apportioning the bales
and luggage, the Doctor's large tin boxes, and my own,
among my own men ; for I had resolved upon per-
mitting the Doctor's men to march as passengers,
because they had so nobly performed their duty to
their master.
Sayd bin Majid had left, December 12, for Mirambo's
country, to give the black Bonaparte battle for the
murder of his son Soud in the forests of Wilyankuru ;
and he had taken with him 300 stout fellows, armed
with guns, from Ujiji. The stout-hearted old chief was
burning with rage and resentment, and a fine warlike
figure he made with his 7-foot gun. Before we had
departed for the Rusizi, I had wished him bon voyage,
and expressed a hope that he would rid the Central
African world of the tyrant Mirambo.
On the 20th of December tJie rainy season was
ushered in witli heavy rain, thunder, lightning, and
hail ; the thermometer falling to 66° Fahrenheit. The
evening of this day I was attacked with urticaria, or
" nettle rash," for the third time since arriving in
Africa, and I suffered a woeful sickness; it was the
forerunner of an attack of remittent fever, which lasted
four days. This is the malignant type, which has
proved fatal to so many African travellers on the
Zambezi, the White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger.
The head throjas, the pulses bound, the heart struggles
painfully, while the sufferer's thoughts are in a* strange
Dec. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE.
565
world, such only as a sick man's fancy can create. This
was the fourth attack of fever since the day I met
Livino-stone. The excitement of the march, and the
high hope which my mind constantly nourished, had
kept my body almost invincible against an attack of
fever while advancing towards Ujiji ; but two weeks
after the great event had transpired my energies were
relaxed, my mind was perfectly tranquil, and I be-
came a victim. However, as' I had never been prone
to intemperance, or to the indulgence of other vicious
habits which destroy so many fine constitutions, my
frame, happily, did not succumb to the repeated attacks
of the insidious disease.
Christmas came, and. the Doctor and I had resolved
upon the blessed and time-honored day being kept as
we keep it in Anglo-Saxon lands, with a feast such as
Ujiji could furnish us. The fever had quite gone from
me the night before, and on Christmas morning, though
exceedingly weak, I was up and dressed, and lecturing
Ferajji, the cook, upon tlie importance of this day to
white men, and endeavoring to instil into the mind
of the sleek and pampered animal some cunning secrets
of the culinary art. Fat broad-tailed sheep, goats,
zogga and pombe, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, singwe,
fine corn-flour, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, &c., &c.,
were procured in the Ujiji market, and from good old
Moeni Klieri. But, alas! for my weakness. Ferajji
spoiled the roast, and our custard was burned— the
dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained rascal
escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift
my hands for punishment; but my looks were dreadful
and. alarming," and capable of annihilating any one
except Ferajji. The stupid, hard-headed cook only
chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent gratifica-
566
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
tion of eating the pies, custards, and roast that his
carelessness had spoiled for European palates.
Sayd bin Majid, previous to his departure, had left
orders that we should be permitted to use his canoe for
our homeward trip, and Moeni Kheri kindly lent his
huge vessel for the same purpose. The Expedition, now
augmented by the Doctor and his five servants, and
their luggage, necessitated the employment of another
canoe. We had our flocks of milch-goats and provision
of fat sheep for the jungle of Ukawendi, the transit
of which I was about to attempt. Good Halimah,
Livingstone's cook, had made ready a sackful of fine
flour, such as she only could prepare in her fond devo-
tion for her master. Hamoydah, her husband, also had
freely given his assistance and attention to this im-
portant article of food. I purchased a donkey for
the Doctor, the only one available in Ujiji, lest the
Doctor might happen to suffer on the long march from
his ancient enemy. In short, we were luxuriously
furnished with food, sheep, goats, cheese, cloth, donkeyp,
and canoes, sufiScient to convey us a long distance*
we needed nothing more.
The 27tli of December has arrived; it is the day of
our departure from Ujiji. I was probably about to give
an eternal farewell to the port, whose name will for
ever be consecrate in my memory. The canoes —
great lumbering hollow trees — are laden with good
things ; the rowers are in their places ; the flag of
England is hoisted at the stern of the Doctor "s canoe ;
the flag of America waves and rustles joyously above
mine ; and I cannot look at them Avitliout feeling a
certain pride that the two Anglo-Saxon nations are
represented this day on this great inland sea, in the face
of wild nature and barbarism.
Dec. 1871.] OUR JOURNET TO UNYANYEMBE.
567
We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab
merchants, by the admiring children of TJnyamwezi,
by the freemen of Zanzibar, by wondering Waguhha
and Wajiji, by fierce Warundi, who are on this day
quiet, even sorrowful, that the white men are going —
" Whither ?" they all ask.
At 8 A.M. we start, freely distributing our farewells
as the Arabs and quidnuncs wave their hands. On the
part of one or two of them there was an attempt to say
something sentimental and affecting, especially by the
convicted sinner Mohammed bin Sali ; but though
outwardly I manifested no disapprobation of his words,
or of the emphatic way in which he shook my hand, I
was not sorry to see the last of him, after his treachery
to Livingstone in 1869. I was earnestly requested to
convey to Unyanyembe " Mengi salaams " to every-
body, but had I done so, as he evidently desired me
to do, I would not have been surprised at being re-
garded by all as hopelessly imbecile.
We shoved off from the clayey bank at the foot of
the market-place, while the land party, unencumbered
with luggage, under the leadership of gigantic Asmani
and Bombay, commenced their journey southward along
the shores of the lake. We had arranged to meet
them at the mouth of every river to transport them
across from bank to bank.
The Doctor being in Sayd bin Majid's boat, which
was a third or so shorter than the one under my com-
mand, took the lead, with the British flag, held aloft by
a bamboo, streaming behind like a crimson meteor.
My boat — manned by Wajiji sailors, wliom we had
engaged to take the canoes back from Tongwe Cape to
Ujiji Bunder — came astern, and had a much taller flag-
staff, on which was hoisted tlie ever-beautiful Stars and
668
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Stripes. Its extreme height drew from the Doctor, — ■
whose patriotism and loyalty had heen excited, — the
remark that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for
his flagstaff, as it was not fitting that the British flag
should be so much lower than that of the United
States.
Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in light-
heartedness at the thought of going to Unyanyembe.
They struck up the exhilarating song of the Zanzibar
boatmen, with the ecstatic chorus —
Kinan de re re Kitunga,
rowing away like madmen, until they were compelled
to rest from sheer exhaustion, while the perspiration
exuded from the pores of their bodies in streams. When
refreshed, they bent back to their oars, raising the song
of the Mrima —
0 mama, re de mi Ky,
which soon impelled them to an extravagant efibrt
again. It was by this series of ferocious spurts, racing,
shouting, singing, perspiring, laughing, groaning, and
puflSng that our people vented their joyous feelings, as
the thought filled their minds that we were homeward
bound, and that by the route I had adopted between
us and Unyanyembe there was not the least danger.
We have given the Waha, the slip ! ha, ha !
The Wavinza will trouble us no more I oh, oh 1
Mionvu can get no more cloth from us 1 hy, hy !
And Kiala will see us no more — never more 1 he, he !
they shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by
tremendous and rapid strokes with their oars, which
caused the stiff old canoes to ouiver from stem to stern.
Dec. 1871.] OUR JOUBNEY TO UNYANYEMBE.
569
Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excite-
ment, and joined in the wild refrain of the mad African
song. We watched them urging their steps forward to
keep pace with us, as we rounded the capes and points,
and rowed across the bays whose margins were sedge,
and rush, and reed. The tiny and agile Kalulu, little
Bilali, and Majwara were seen racing the herds of goats,
sheep, and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and
the animals even seemed to shaie the general joy.
Nature, also — proud, wild nature — with the lofty
azure dome upheaved into infinity — with her breadth
and depth of vivid greenness and enormous vastness
on our left — with her immense sheet of bright, glancing
water — with her awful and intense serenity — she par-
took of and added to our joy.
About 10 A.M. we arrived at Kirindo's, an old chief,
noted for his singular kindness to Dr. Livingstone,
while he bore animosity to the Arabs. To the Arabs
this was unaccountable — to the Doctor it was plain :
he had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all
the Arabs spoke to him as if he were not even a man,
least of all a chief.
Kirindo's place is at the mouth of the Liuche, which
is very wide ; the river oozes out through a forest of
eschinomenae (pith tree). This was a rendezvous agreed
upon between shore and lake parties, tluit the canoes
might all cross to the other side, distant a mile and a
half. The mouth of the Liuclie forms the Bay of
Ukaranga, so named because on the other side, whither
we were about to cross our party, was situated the
village of Ukaranga, a few hundred yards from the lake.
All the baggage was taken out of the largest canoe,
and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few select
oarsmen having taken seats, pushed off with the Doctor
570
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
on board, who was to superintend pitching the encamp-
ment at Ukaranga ; while I remained behind to bind
the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow -them
away in the bottom of the large canoe, that no danger
of upsetting might be incurred, and a consequent gob-
bling-up by hungry crocodiles, which were all about us
waiting their opportunity. The tlock of goats were
then embarked, and as many of our people as could be
got in. About thirty still remained behind with myself,
for whom my canoe was to return.
"We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got
dangerously near a herd of hippopotami. The crossing
of the wide mouth (the Liuche being then in flood)
was effected in about four hours.
The next day, in the same order as on our departure
from TJjiji, we pursued our way south, the lake party
keeping as closely as possible to the shore, yet, when
feasible, wind and weather permitting, struck off boldly
across the numerous small bays which indent the shores
of the Tanganika. The shores were beautifully green,
the elTect of the latQ rains ; the waters of the lake were
a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above. The
hippopotami were plenty. Those noticed on this day
were colored with reddish rings round the base of their
ears and on the neck. One monster, coming up rather
late, was surprised by the canoe making full for him, and
in great fright took a tremendous dive which showed
the whole length of his body. Half way between
the mouth of the Malagarazi and that of the Liuche we
saw a camp on shore — that of ^lohammed bin Gharib, a
Msawahili, who figured often in Livingstone's verbal
narrative to me of his adventures and travels as one of
the kindest and best of the Moslems in Central Africa.
He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with a face
Dzo. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UN7ANTEMBE.
571
seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual character-
istic on it — that of sincerity.
The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was
truly tropical, each curve revealed new beauties. With
the soft chalky stone, of which most of the cliffs and
bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the
Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.
We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about
2 P.M., having rowed eighteen miles from Ukaranga.
The shore party arrived, very much fatigued, about
5 P.M.
The next day was employed in crossing the caravan
across the broad mouth of the Malagarazi to our camp,
a couple of miles north of the river. This is a river
which a civilised community would find of immense
advantage for shortening the distance between the
Tangaiiika and the coast. Nearly one hundred miles
might be performed by this river, which is deep enough
at all seasons to allow navigation as far as Kiala, in
Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily made to
Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might reap the same
benefit from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha,
and Ugala. Pursuing our way on the 30th, and
rounding the picturesque capes of Kagongo, Mviga and
Kivoe, we came, after about three hours' rowing, in sight
of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid Rugufu.
Here we had again to transport the caravan over the
crocodile-infested mouth of the river.
On the morning of the 31st we sent a canoe with
men to search for food in the two or three villages that
were visible on the other side. Four doti purchased
just sufficient for four days for our caravan of forty-
eight persons. AVe then got under weigh, having
572
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
informed the kirangozi that Urimba was our destinatfon,
and bidding him keep as closely as possible to the lake
shore, where it was practicable, but if not, to make the
best he could of it. From the de'bouchement of the
Rugufu, the head-waters of which we had crossed on our
random route to Ujiji, to Urimba, a distance of six days
by water, there are no villages, and consequently no
food. The shore party, however, before leaving Ujiji,
had eight days' rations, and on this morning four days',
distributed to each person, and therefore was in no
danger of starvation should the mountain headlands,
now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one after another,
prevent them from communicating with us. It must
be understood that such a journey as this had never
been attempted before by any Arab or Msawahili, and
every step taken was in sheer ignorance of where the
road would lead the men ashore. Rounding Kivoe's
steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged
slope, wooded down to the water's edge, whose exqui-
site coves and quiet recesses, might well have evoked
a poetical eflusion to one so inclined, we dared the
chopping waves of Kivoe's bay, and stood direct for
the next cape, Mizohazy, behind which, owing to wind
and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night.
After Mizohazy is the bold cape of Kabogo — not the
terrible Kabogo around whose name mystery lias been
woven by the superstitious natives — not the Kabogo
whose sullen thunder and awful roar were heard when
crossing the Rugufu on our flight from the Wahha —
but a point in Ukaranga on whose hard and uninviting
rocks many a canoe has been wrecked. We passed
close to its forbidding walls, tliankful for the calm of
the Tanganika. Near Kabogo are some very fine
Dec. 1871.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNTANYEMBE.
573
mvTile trees, well adapted for canoe building, and there
are no loud-mouthed natives about to haggle for the
privilege of cutting them.
Along the water's edge, and about three feet above it,
was observed very clearly on the smooth face of the
rocky slopes of Kabogo the high-water mark of the
lake. This went to show that the Tanganika, during
the rainy season, rises about three feet above its dry
season level, and that, during the latter season, evapora-
tion reduces it to its normal level. The number of
rivers which we passed on this journey enabled me to
observe whether, as I was told, there was any current
setting north. It was apparent to me that, while the
south-west, south, or south-east winds blew, the brown
flood of the rivers swept north ; but it happened that,
while passing, once or twice, the mouths of rivers, after
a puff from the north-west and north, that the muddied
waters were seen southward of the mouths, from which
I conclude that there is no current in the Tanganika
except such as is caused by the fickle wind.
Finding a snug nook cf a bay at a place called
Sigunga, we put in for lunch. An island at the mouth
of the bay suggested to our minds that this was a
beautiful spot for a mission station ; the grandly sloping
hills in the background, with an undulating shelf of
land well-wooded between them and the bay, added
to the attractions of such a spot. The island, capable
of containing quite a large village, and" perfectly defen-
sible, might, for prudence' sake, contain the mission
and its congregation ; the land-locked bay would pro-
tect their fi.shery and trade vessels : the fertile ground
between the hills and the bay would more than sustain
a hundred times the number of the population of the
island. Wood for building their canoes and houses is
574
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
close at hand ; the neighboring country would afford
game in abundance ; and the docile and civil people of
Ukaranga but waited religious shepherds.
From beautiful Sigunga, after a brief halt, we set off,
and, after three hours, arrived at the mouth of the
River Uwelasia. Hippopotami and crocodiles being
numerous, we amused ourselves by shooting at them,
having also a hope of attracting the attention of our
shore party, the sound of whose guns we had not
heard since leaving the Rugufu.
On the 3rd of January we left Uwelasia, and, passing
by Cape Herembe, were in the Bay of Tongwe. This
bay is about twenty-five miles broad, and stretches from
Cape Herembe to Cape Tongwe. Finding themselves
so near their destination, Urimba being but six miles
from Herembe Point, the men of both boats bent them-
selves to their oars, and, with shouts, songs, and laughter,
encouraged each other to do their utmost. The flags of
the two great Anglo-Saxon nations rippled and plaj-ed
in the soft breeze, sometimes drawing near caressingly
together, again bending away, like two lovers coy to
unite. The tight little boat *f the Doctor would keep
ahead, and the crimson and crossed flag of England
would wave before me, and it seemed to say to the
beautiful laggard astern, " Come on, come on ; England
leads the way." But was it not England's place to be
in the front here ? She won the right to it by discovering
the Tanganika ; America came but second.
Urimba, though a large district of Kawendi, has a
village of the same name peopled by refugees from
Yombeh, who found the delta of the Lonjeri, though
the unheal thiest of spots — equal to that of the Rusfzi —
far preferable to the neighbourhood of Sultan Pumburu,
of Southern Kawendi. A good chase by the victors
Jak. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNTANTEMBE.
575
seems to have given a shock to their systems, for they
* are very timid and distrustful of strangers, and would
by no means permit us to enter their village, of which,
to say the truth, I was very glad, after a glance at the
reeking corruption on which they were encamped. In
the immediate neighbourhood — nay, for a couple of
miles on either side — I should suppose that to a white
man it were death to sleep a single night. Leading the
way south of the village, I found a fit camping-place at
the extreme south-east corner of Tongwe Bay, about a
mile and a half due west of the lofty peak of Kivanga,
or Kakungu. By an observation taken by the- Doctor,
we found ourselves to be in latitude 5° 54' south.
None of the natives had heard of our shore party,
and, as the delta of the Loajeri and Mogambazi extended
for about fifteen miles, and withal was the most im-
passable of places, being perfectly flat, overgrown with
the tallest of matete, eschinomenjB, and thorny bush,
and flooded with water, it was useless to fatigue our
men searching for the shore party in such an inhos-
pitable country. No provisions were procurable, for
the villages were in a state of semi-starvation, the
inhabitants living from hand to mouth on what re-
luctant Fortune threw into their nets.
The second day of our arrival at Urimba I struck off"
into the interior with my gun-bearer, Kaluln, carrying
tlie Doctor's splendid double-barreled rifle (a " Keilly,'
No. 12), on the search for venison. After walking about
a mile I came to a herd of zebras. By creeping on all-fours
I managed to come within one hundred yards of them ;
but I was in a bad spot — low prickly shrubs ; and tsetse
flies alighting on the rifle-sight, biting my nose, dashing
into my eyes, completely disconcerted me ; and, to add
to my discontent, my efibrts to disengage myself from
676-
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the thorns alarmed the zebras, which all stood facing tne
suspicious object in the bush. I fired at the breast of
one, but, as might be expected, missed. The zebras
galloped away to about three hundred yards off, and I
dashed into the open, and, hastily cocking the left-hand
trigger, aimed at a prond fellow trotting royally before
his fellows, and by good chance sent a bullet through
his heart. A fortunate shot also brought down a huge
goose, which had a sharp horny spur on the fore part
of each wing. This supply of meat materially con-
Iributed towards the provisioning of the party for the
transit of the unknown land that lay between us and
Mrera, in Rusawa, Kawendi.
It was not until the tliird day of our arrival at our
camp at Urimba that our shore party arrived. They
had perceived our immense flag hoisted on a twenty-
feet long bamboo above the tallest tree near our camp
as they surmounted the sharp lofty ridge behind
Nerembe, fifteen miles off, and had at first taken it for
an immense bird ; but there were sharp eyes in the
crowd, and, guided by it, they came to camp, greeted
as only lost and found men are greeted.
I suffered from another attack of fever at this camp,
brought on by the neighborhood of the vile delta, the
look of which sickened the very heart in me.
On the 7th January we struck camp, and turned our
faces eastward, and for me, home ! Yet regretfully !
There had been enough happiness and pleasure, and
pleasantest of social companionship found on the shores
of the lake for me. I had seen enough lovely scenes
which, siren-like, invited one to quiet rest ; gentle
scenes, where there was neither jar nor tumult, neither
strife nor defeat, neither hope nor disappointment, bu^
rest — a drowsy, indolent, yet pleasant rest. And only a
Jan. 1872.] OUR JOUSNET TO UNTANYEMBE.
677
few drawbacks to these. There was fever ; there were
no books, no newspapers, no wife of my own race and
blood, no theatres, no hotels, no restaurants, no East
River oysters, no mince-pies, neither buckwheat cakes,
nor anything much that was good for a cultivated palate
to love. So, in turning to say farewell to the then
placid lake and the great blue mountains, that grew
bluer as they receded on either hand, I had the courage
to utter that awful word tearlessly, and without one
sigh.
Our road led up through the valley of the Loajeri,
after leaving its delta, a valley growing e\?er narrower,
until it narrowed into a ravine choked by the now
roaring, bellowing river, whose resistless rush seemed
to affect the very air we breathed. It was getting
oppressive, this narrowing ravine, and opportunely the
road breasted a knoll, then a terrace, then a hill, and
lastly a mountain, where we halted to encamp. As we
prepared to select a camping place, the Doctor silently
pointed forward, and suddenly a dead silence reigned
everywhere. The quinine which I had taken in the
morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of my
brain ; but a bitter evil remained, and, though I
trembled under the heavy weight of the " Reilly "
rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor was pointing.
I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the
other bank of which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling
upward. She had just reached the summit, and was
turning round to survey her enemy, when I succeeded
in planting a shot just behind the shoulder-blade, and
close to the spine, evoking from her a deep bellow
of pain. "She is shot! she is shot!" exclaimed the
Doctor; " that is a sure sign you have hit her." And
the men even raised a shout at the prospect of meat.
2 P
678
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
A second, planted in lier spine, brought her to lier
knees, and a third ended her. "We thus had another
supply of provisions, which, cut up and dried over a
fire, as the Wangwana are accustomed to do, would
carry them far over the unpeopled wilderness before us.
For the Doctor and myself, we had the tongue, the
hump, and a few choice pieces salted down, and in a
few days had prime corned beef. It is not inapt to
state that the rifle had more commendations bestowed
on it than the hunter by the Wangwana.
The next day we continued the march eastward,
under the guidance of our kirangozi ; but it was evi-
dent, by the road he led us, that he knew nothing of
the country, though, through his volubility, he had
led us to believe that he knew all about Ngondo,
Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts. When recalled from
the head of the caravan, we were about to descend
into the rapid Loajeri, and beyond it were three ranges
of impassable mountains', which we were to cross in a
north-north-easterly direction, quite out of our road.
After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the
head of the caravan, and following the spine of the
ridge, struck off due east, regardless of how tlie road
ran. At intervals a travelled road crossed our path,
and, after following it a while, we came to the ford of
the Loajeri. The Loajeri rises south and south-east of
' Kakungu Peak. We made the best we could of tlie road
after crossing the river, until we reached the main path
that runs from Karah to Ngondo and Pumburu, in
Southern Kawendi.
On the 9th, soon after leaving cump, we left the tra-
velled path, and made for a gap in the arc of hills
before us, as Pumburu was at war with the people of
Manya Msenge, a district of Northern Kawendi. The
Jak. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNTANYEMBE. 579
country teemed with game — the buffaloes and zebras
were plentiful. Among the conspicuous trees were the
hyphene and borassus palm trees, and a tree bearing a
fruit about the size of a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called
by some natives " mabyah,"* according to the Doctor,
the seeds of which are roasted and eaten. They are
not to be recommended as food to Europeans.
On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men,
with my compass in hand, I led the way east for three
hours. A beautiful park land was revealed to us ; but
the grass was very tall, and the rainy season, which had
commenced in earnest, made m^^ work excessively dis-
agreeable. Through this tall grass, which was as high as
my throat, I had to force my way, compass in hand, to
lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign of a
road, and we were now in an untravelled country. We
made our camp on a beautiful little stream flowing
north ; one of the feeders of the Rugufu River.
The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass,
which showered drops of rain on me every time I made
a step forward. In two hours we crossed a small
stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in its bed, showing
the action of furious torrents. Mushrooms were in
abundance, and very large. In crossing, an old pagazi
of Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in a deplorable
tone, " My kibuyu is dead ;" by which he meant that
he had slipped, and in falling had broken his gourd,
which in Kisawahili is " kibuyu."
On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after
an hour and a half's march, arrived at another
stream, which I took to be the Mtambu, at first, from
the similarity of the land, thougli my niaj) informed nie
• lu tho Kisawabili tonguo, " nmbyali," " nibyali," " byah," mean
bad, unpleasant.
580 HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
that it was impossible. The scenery around was very
similar, and to the north we had sighted a similar
tabular hill to the " Magdala " Mount I had discovered
north of Imrera, while going to the Malagarazi.
Though we had only travelled three and a half hours
the Doctor was very tired, as the country was exceedingly
rough.
The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious
scenes of surpassing beauty everywhere around us, we
came in view of a mighty and swift torrent, whose bed
was sunk deep between enormous lofty walls of sand-
stone rock, where it roared and brawled with the noise
of a little Niagara. •
Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque
knoll, I thought I would endeavor to procure some
meat, which this interesting region seemed to promise.
I sallied out with my little Winchester along the banks
of the river eastward. I travelled for an hour or two,
the prospect getting more picturesque and lovely, and
then went up a ravine which looked very promising.
Unsuccessful, I strode up the bank, and my astonish-
ment may be conceived when I found myself directly
in front of an elephant, who had his large broad ears
held out like studding sails — the colossal monster, the
incarnation of might of the African world. Methought
when I saw his trunk stretched forward, like a warning
finger, that I heard a voice say, " Siste, Yenator !" But
whether it did not proceed from my imagination )r —
No; I believe it proceeded from Kalulu, who must have
shouted, " Tembo, tembo ! bana yango !" " Lo ! an
elephant ! an elephant, my master !" For the young
rascal had fled as soon as he had witnessed the awful
colossus in such close vicinage. Recovering from my
astonishment, I thought it prudent to retire also —
Jan. 1872.] OUB JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE.
581
especially with a pea-shooter loaded with treacherous
sawdust cartridges in my hand. As I looked behind, I
saw him waving his trunk, which I understood to
mean, " Good-bye, young fellow, it is lucky for you
you went in time, for I was going to pound you to a
jelly."
As I was congratulating myself, a wasp darted
fiercely at me and planted its sting in my neck, and for
that afternodn my anticipated pleasures were dispelled.
Arriving at camp I found the men grumbling ; their
provisions were ended, and there was no prospect for
three days, at least, of procuring any. With the im-
providence usual with the gluttons, they had eaten
their rations of grain, all their store of zebra and dried
buffalo meat, and were now crying out that they were
famished.
The tracks of animals were numerous, but it being
the rainy season the game was scattered everywhere ;
whereas, had we travelled during the dry season
through these forests our larders might have been
supplied fresh each day.
Some time about 6 p.m., as the Doctor and I were
taking our tea outside the tent, a herd of elephants,
twelve in number, passed about 800 yards off. Our
fundi, Asmani and Mabruki Kisesa, were immediately
despatched in pursuit. I would have gone myself
with the heavy " Reilly" rifle, only I was too much
fatigued. We soon heard their guns firing, and hoped
they were successful, as a plentiful supply of meat
might then have been procured, while we ourselves
would have secured one of the elephant's feet' for a nice
delicate roast; but within an hour they returned un-
successful, having only drawn blood, some of which
they exhibited to us on a leaf.
582
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
It requires • a very good rifle to kill . an African
elephant. A No. 8 bore with a Fraser's shell, planted
in the temple, I believe, would drop an elephant each
shot. Faulkner makes some extraordinary statements,
about walking up in front of an elephant and planting
a bullet in his forehead, killing him instantly. The
tale, however, is so incredible that I would prefer not to
believe it ; especially when he states that the imprint
of the muzzle of his rifle was on the elephant's trunk.
African travellers — especially those with a taste for the
chase — are too fond of relating that which borders on the
incredible for ordinary men to believe them. Such
stories must be taken with a large grain of salt, for
the sake of the amusement they afford to readers at
home. In future, whenever I hear a man state how he
broke the back of an antelope at 600 yards, I shall
incline to believe a cipher had been added by a slip
of the pen, or attribute it to a typographical error,
for this is almost an impossible feat in an African forest.
It may be done once, but it could never be done twice
running. An antelope makes a very small target at
600 yards distance ; but, then, all these stories belong
by right divine to the chasseur who travels to Africa
for the sake only of sport. I have heard young
officers on the Zanzibar qoast, who were but just past
their teens, relating with an astonishing glibness and
volubility the tremendous adventures they had had with
elephants, leopards, lions, and what not. If they shot
at a hippopotamus in the river, they had killed him ; if
they had met an antelope near the coast, it was almost
sure to be a lion, and they had bowled him over ; if
they had seen an elephant in a zoological garden, it
was sure to be told tliat he had been met in Africa, and
" bagged, sir, without any trouble ; and I have the tusks
Jan. 1872.] OUR JOUBNEY TO UNYANTEMBE.
588
at home now, whicli I can show, if you Hke, some day."
It is a disease, a mania with some people, that they
never can relate the positive, literal, exact truth. Tra- .
veiling in Africa is adventurous enough as it is, with-
out any fiction. Mostly all men who were with the
Abyssinian Expedition will recollect that wonderful
*' Major" who was accustomed to unfold the dire, the
terrible, and the extraordinary, in stories by the busliel.
1 gave that gentleman one day a buffalo skin which I
had received from Satanta, chief of the Kiowas, near
Medicine Lodge, Kansas ; yet the next day I heard it
given out that he had shot the buffalo on an American
prairie with a pistol bullet. This is only an illustration
of the imaginary which many t-ravellers love to relate ;
it is a tendency with some men to exaggerate. South
and North African hunters are famous for their variety
of hunting anecdotes, which I consider to have been
simply flourishes of the pen.
On the 13th we continued our march across several
ridges; and the series of ascents and descents revealed
to us valleys and mountains never before explored ;
streams rushing northward, swollen by tlie rains, and
grand primeval forests, in whose twilight shade no
white man ever walked before.
On the 14th the same scenes were witnessed — an
unbroken series of longitudinal ridges, parallel one
with another and with Lake Tanganika. Eastward the
faces of these ridges present abrupt scarps and terraces,
rising from deep valleys, while the western declivities
have gradual slopes. These are the peculiar features
of Ukawendi, the eastern watershed of the Tanganika.
In one of these valleys on this day we came across a
colony of reddish-bearded monkeys, whose howls, or
bellowing, rang amongst the cliffs as they discovered
584
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the caravan. I was not able to approach them, for
they scrambled up trees and barked their defiance
•at me, then bounded to the ground as I still persisted
in advancing ; and they would have soon drawn me in
pursuit if I had not suddenly remembered that my
absence was halting the Expedition.
About noon we sighted our Magdala — the grand
towering mount whose upright frowning mass had
attracted our eyes, as it lifted itself from above the
plain in all its grandeur, when we were hurrying along
the great ridge of Rusawa towards the " Crocodile '
River. We recognized the old, mystic beauty of the
tree-clad plain around it. Then it was bleached, and a
filmy haze covered it lovingly ; now it was vivid green-
ness. Every vegetable, plant, herb, and tree, had sprung
into quick life — the effect of the rains. Rivers that
ran not in those hot summer days now fumed and
rushed impetuously between thick belts of mighty tim-
ber, brawling hoarsely in the glades. We crossed many
of these streams, all of which are feeders of the Rugufu.
Beautiful, bewitching Ukawendi ! By what shall I
gauge the loveliness of the wild, free, luxuriant, spon-
taneous nature within its boundaries? By anything
in Europe ? No. By anything in Asia ? Where ?
India, perhaps. Yes ; or say Mingrelia and Imeritia.
For there we have foaming rivers ; we have pic-
turesque hillocks; we have bold hills, ambitious
mountains, and broad forests, with lofty solemn rows
of trees, with clean straight stems, through which you
can see far, lengthy vistas, as you see here. Only in
Ukawendi you can almost behold the growth of ve-
getation ; the earth is so generous, nature so kind and
loving, that without entertaining any aspiration for a
residence, or a wish to bre;ithe the baleful atmosphere
Jak. 1872.] OUR JOUBNET TO UNYANTEMBE.
585
longer than is absolutely necessary, one feels insensibly
drawn towards it, as the thought creeps into his mind,
that though all is foul beneath the captivating,
glainorous beauty of the land, the foulness mighty be
removed by civilized people, and the whole region made
as healthy as it is productive. Even while staggering
under the pressure of the awful sickness, with mind
getting more and more embittered, brain sometimes
reeling with the shock of the constantly recurring
fevers — though I knew how the malaria, rising out of
that very fairness, was slowly undermining my con-
stitution, and insidiously sapping the powers of mind
and body — I regarded the alluring face of the land
with a fatuous love, and felt a certain sadness steal
over me as each day I was withdrawing myself from it,
and felt disposed to quarrel with the fate that seemed,
to eject me out of Ukawendi.
On the nhith day of our march from the shores of
the Tanganika we again perceived our "Magdala
Mount," rising like a dark cloud to the north-east, by
which I knew that we were approaching Imrera, and
that our Icarian attempt to cross the uninhabited jungle
of Ukawendi would soon be crowned with success.
Against the collective counsel of the guides, and hypo-
thetical suggestions of the tired and hungry souls of
our Expedition, I persisted in being guided only by
Ihe compass and my chart. The guides strenuously
strove to induce me to alter my course and strike in
a south-west direction, which, had I listened to theni,
would have undoubtedly taken me to South-western
Ukoiiongo, or North-eastern Ufipa. The veteran
and experienced soldiers asked mournfully if 1 were
determined to kill them \vith famine, as the road I
should have taken was north-east ; but I preferred
586
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
putting my trust in the compass. No sun shone upon
us as we threaded our way through the primeval forest,
by clumps of jungle, across streams, up steep ridges,
and down into deep valleys. A thick haze covered the
forests ; rain often pelted us ; the firmament was an
unfathomable depth of grey vapor. The Doctor had
perfect confidence in me, and I held on my way.
As soon as we arrived at our camp the men scattered
themselves through the forest to search for food. A
grove of siugwe trees was found close by. Mush-
rooms grew in abundance, and these sufficed to appease
the gnawing hunger from which the people suffered.
Had it not been such rainy weather I should have been
enabled to procure game for the camp ; but the fatigue
which I suffered, and the fever which enervated me,
utterly prevented me from moving out of the camp
after we once came to a halt. The fear of lions, which
were numerous in our vicinity, whose terrible roaring
was heard by day and by night, daunted the hunters so
much, that though I offered five doti of cloth for every
animal brought to camp, none dared penetrate the
gloomy glades, or awesome belts of timber, outside the
friendly defence of the camp.
The morning of the tenth day I assured the people
that we were close to food ; cheered the most amiable
of them with promise of abundant provender, and
hushed the most truculent knaves with a warning not
to tempt my patience too much, lest we came to angry
blows ; and then struck away east by north through the
forest, with the almost exhausted Expedition dragging
itself weakly and painfully beliind me. It was a most
desperate ]iositi()n certainly, and I pitied the poor people
far more than they pitied themselves; and though I
fumed and stormed in their presence when they were
Jan. 1872.] OUB JOUBNEY TO UNTANYEMBE. 587
disposed to lie down and give up, never was a man
further from doing them injury. I was too proud of
them ; but under the circumstances it was dangerous —
nay, suicidal —to appear doubtful or dubious of the road.
The mere fact that I still held on my way according to
the Doctor's little pearly monitor (the compass) had a
grand moral effect on them, and though they de-
murred in plaintive terms and with pinched faces, they
followed my footsteps with a trustfulness which quite
affected me.
For long miles we trudged over smooth sloping
sward, with a vision of forest and park-land beauty
on our right and left, and in front of us, such as is
rarely seen. At a pace that soon left the main body
of the Expedition far behind, I strode on wath a few
gallant fellows, who, despite their heavy loads, kept
pace with me. After a couple of hours we were
ascending the easy slope of a ridge, which promised
to decide in a few minutes the truth or the inaccuracy
of my chart. Presently we arrived at the eastern
edge of the ridge, and about five miles away, and
1,000 feet below the high plateau on which we stood,
we distinguished the valley of Imrera !
By noon we were in our old camp. The natives
gathered round, bringing supplies of food, and to con-
gratulate us upon having gone to Ujiji and returned.
But it was long before the last member of the p]xpedi-
tion arrived. The Doctor's feet weie very sore, and
bleeding from the weary march, 11 is shoes were in a
very worn-out state, and he had so cut and slashed them
with a knife to ease his blistered feet, that any man ol
our force would have refused them as a gift, no raatici
how ambitious he might be to encase his feet a la
Wasungu.
588-
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Asmani, the guide, was very much taken aback when
he discovered that the tiny compass knew the way
better than he did, and he declared it as his solemn
opinion that it could not lie. He suffered much in
reputation from having contested the palm with the
" little thing," and ever afterwards his boasted knowledge
of the country was considerably doubted.
After halting a day to recruit ourselves, we continued
our journey on the i8th January, 1872, towards Unya-
nyembe. A few miles beyond Imrera, Asmani lost the
road again, and I was obliged to show it to him, by
which I gained additional honor and credit as a leader
and guide. My shoes were very bad, and it was diffi-
cult to decide whose were the worst in condition, the
Doctor's or mine. A great change had come upon the
face of the land since I had passed northward en route
to Ujiji. The wild grapes now hung in clusters along
the road ; the corn ears were advanced enough to pluck
and roast for food ; the various plants shed their flowers ;
and the deep woods and grasses of the country were
greener than ever.
On the 19 th we arrived at Mpokwa's deserted
village. The Doctor's feet were very much chafed
and sore by the marching. He had walked on foot all
the way from Urimba, though he owned a donkey;
while I, considerably to my shame be it said, had ridden
occasionally to husband my strength, that I might be
enabled to hunt after arrival at camp.
Two huts were cleared for our use, but, just as we
had made ourselves comfortable, our sharp-eyed fellows
had discovered several herds of game in the plain' west
of Mpokwa. Hastily devouring a morsel of corn-bread
with coffee, I hastened away, with Bilali for a gun-
bearer, taking with me the famous Reilly rifle of tlie
Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNTANYEMBE.
589
Doctor and a supply of Fraser's shells. After plunging
through a deep stream, and getting wet again, and
pushing mj way through a dense brake, I arrived at a
thin belt of forest, through which I was obliged to
crawl, and, in half an hour, I had arrived within one
hundred and forty yards of a group of zebras, which were
playfully biting each other under the shade of a large
tree. Suddenly rising up, I attracted their attention ;
but the true old rifle was at my shofilder, and " crack —
crack " went both barrels, and two fine zebras, a male
and female, fell dead under the tree where they had
stood. In a few seconds their throats were cut, and,
after giving the signal of my success, I was soon sur-
rounded by a dozen of my men, who gave utterance to
their delight by fulsome compliments to the merits of
the rifle, though very few to me. TThen I returned to
camp with the meat I received the congratulations of
the Doctor, which I valued far higher, as he knew from
long experience what shooting was.
When the eatable portions of the two zebras were
hung to the scale, we found, according to the Doctor's
own figures, that we had 719 lbs. of good meat, which,
divided among forty-four men, gave a little over 16 lbs.
to each person. Bombay, especially, was very happy,
as he had dreamed a dream wherein I figured promi-
nently as shooting animals down right and left ; and,
when he had seen me depart with that wonderful Reilly
rifle, he had not entertained a doubt of my success, and,
accordingly, had commanded the men to be ready to
go after me, as soon as they should hear tlie re[)orts of
the gun.
The following is quoted from my diary :
January 20th, 1872. — To-day was a halt. On going
out for a hunt I saw a herd of eleven giraffes. After
590
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
crossing Mpokwa stream I succeeded in getting within
one hundred and fifty yards of one of them, and fired
at it ; but, though it was wounded, I did not succeed in
dropping it, though I desired the skin of one of them
very much.
In the afternoon I went out to the east of the village,
and came to a herd of six giraffes. I wounded one of
them, but it got off, despite my efforts.
What remarkable creatures they are ! How beautiful
t^leir large limpid eyes ! I could liave declared on oath
that both shots had been a success, but they sheered oS
with the stately movements of a clipper about to tack.
When they ran they had an ungainly, dislocated
motion, somewhat like the contortions of an Indian
nautch or a Theban danseuse — a dreamy, undulating
movement, which even the tail, with its long fringe of
black hair, seemed, to partake of.
The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent but
■ disappointed young hunter, attributed my non-success
to shooting with leaden balls, which were too soft to
penetrate the thick hide of the giraffes, and advised me
to melt my zinc canteens with which to harden the
lead. It was not the first time that I had cause to
think the Doctor an admirable travelling companion ;
none knew so well how to console one for bad luck —
none knew so well how to elevate one in his own mind.
If I killed a zebra, did not his friend Oswell — the South
African hunter — and himself long ago come to the
conclusion that zebra meat was the finest in Africa ?
If I shot a buffalo cow, she was sure to be the best of
her kind, and Jier horns were worth while carrying
home as specimens ; and was she not fat ? If I returned
without anything, the game was very wild, or the
people bad made a noise, and the game had been
Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNET TO UNTANTEMBE.
591
frightened ; and who could stalk animals already
alarmed ? Indeed, he was a most considerate com-
panion, and, knowing him to be literally truthful, I
was proud of his praise when successful, and when I
failed I was easily consoled.
Ibrahim, the old pagazi whose feelings had been so
lacerated in Ukawendi, when his ancient kibuyu broke,
before leaving Ujiji invested his cloth in a slave
from Manyuema, who bore the name of " Ulimengo,"
which sigTiifies the " World." As we approached
Mpokwa, Ulimengo absconded with all his master's
property, consisting of a few cloths and a bag of salt,
which he had thought of taking to Unyanyembe for
trade. Ibrahim was inconsolable, and he kept lamenting
his loss daily in such lugubrious tones that the people,
instead of sympathizing, laughed at him. I asked him
why he purchased such a slave, and, while he was with
him, why he did not feed him ? Replied he, tartly,
" Was he not my slave ?• Was not the cloth with which
I bought him mine ? If the cloth was my own, could I
not purchase what I liked ? Why do you talk so ?"
Ibrahim's heart was made glad this evening by the
return of Ulimengo with the salt and the cloth, and the
one-eyed old man danced with his great joy, and came
in all haste to impart to me the glad news. " Lo, the
* World ' has come back. Sure. My salt and my cloth
are with him also. Sure." To which I replied, that
he had better feed him in future, as slaves required
food as well as their masters.
From 10 r.M. to midnight the Doctor was employed
in taking observations from the star Canopus, the result
of which was that he ascertained Mpokwa, district of
Utanda, Ukonongo, to be in S. latitude (;° 18' 40".
On comparing it with its position as laid down in my
592 EOW I FOUND LIVING STONE.
map by dead reckoning, I found we diifered by tbree
miles ; I having laid it down at 6° 15' south latitude.
The day following was a halt. The Doctor's feet
were so inflamed and sore that he could not bear his
shoes on. My heels were also raw, and I viciously cut
large circles out of my shoes to enable me to move
about.
Having converted my zinc canteens into bullets, and
provided myself with a butcher and gun-bearer, I set
out for the lovely park land and plain west of Mpokwa
stream, \nth the laudable resolution to obtain some-
thing ; and seeing nothing in the plain, I crossed over
a ridge, and came to a broad basin covered with tall
grass, with clumps here and there of hyphene palm,
with a stray mimosa or so scattered about. Nibbling
off the branches of the latter, I saw a group of giraffes,
and then began stalking them through the grass, taking
advantage of the tall grass-grown ant-hills that I
might approach the wary beasts before their great eyes
could discover me. I contrived to come within
175 yards, by means of one of these curious hummocks;
but beyond it no man could crawl without being
observed — the grass was so thin and short. I took a
long breath, wiped my perspiring brow, and sat down
for a while ; my black assistants also, like myself, were
almost breathless with the exertion, and the high
expectations roused by the near presence of the royal
beasts. I toyed lovingly with the heavy Reilly, saw
to my cartridges, and then stood up and turned, with
my rifle ready ; took one good, long, steady aim ; then
lowered it again to arrange the sights, lifted it up once
more — dropped it. A giraffe half turned his body ; for
the last time I lifted it, took one quick sight at the
region of the heart, and fired. He staggered, reeled,
Jan. 1872.] OUR JOUBNEY TO USTANYEMBE.
693
then made a sliort gallop ; but tlie blood was spouting
from the wound in a thick stream, and before lie had
gone 200 yards he came to a dead halt, with his ears
drawn back, and allowed me to come within twenty-
yards of him, when, receiving a zinc bullet through the
head, he fell dead.
Allah ho, akhhar r cried Khamisi, my butcher,
fervently. "This is meat, master!'
I was rather saddened than otherwise at seeing the
noble animal stretched before me. If I could have
given him his life back I think I should have done so.
I thought it a great pity that such splendid animals, so
well adapted for the service of man in Africa, could
riot be converted to some otlier use than that of food.
Horses, mules, and donkeys died in these sickly regions;
but what a blessing for Africa would it be if we
could tame the giraffes and zebras for the uses of
explorers and traders ! Mounted on a zebra, a man
would be enabled to reach Ujiji in one month from
Bagamoyo ; whereas it took me over seven months to
travel tlmt distance !
The dead giraffe measured 10 feet 9 inches from his
right foi e-hoof to the top of his head, and was one of
the largest size, though some have been found to
measure over 17 feet. He was spotted all over with
large black, nearly round, patches.
I left Khamisi in charge of the dead beast, while I
returned to camp to send off men to cut it up, and
convey the meat to our village. But Khamisi climbed
a tree for fear of the lions, and the vultures settled on
it, so that wlien the men arrived on the s[)ot, the eyes,
the tongue, and a great part of the posteriors were
eaten up. What remained weighed as follows, when
brought in and hung to the scales : —
2 Q
594
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
1 hind leg . • •
134 lbs.
1 „ . . .
. 136 „
1 ■foTfi IfiC . - .
160
1
J. „ ...
160
Eibs ....
. 158 „
Neck ....
• 74 „
Eump ....
. 87 „
Breast ....
. 46 „
Liver ....
. 20 „
Lungs ....
. 12 „
Heart ....
. 6 „
993 lbs.
Total weight of eatable poi"tions
Skin and head, 181 lbs,
The three days following I suffered from a severe
attack of fever, and was unable to stir from bed. I
applied my usual remedies for it, which consisted of
colocynth and quinine ; but experience has shown me
that an excessive use of the same cathartic weakens its
effect, and that it would be well for travellers to take
with them different medicines for clearing the bowels,
and to cause proper action in the liver, such as colo-
cynth, calomel, resin of jalap, Epsom salts ; and that
no quinine should be taken until such medicines shall
liave prepared the system for its reception.
The Doctor's prescription for fever consists of 3 grains
of resin of jalap, and 2 grains of calomel, with
tincture of cardamoms put in just enough to prevent
irritation of the Stomach — made into the form of a pill
' — which is to be taken as soon as one begins to feel the
excessive languor and weariness which is the sure
forerunner of the African type of fever. An hour or
two later a cup of coffee, unsugared, and without milk,
ought to be taken, to cause a quicker action. The
Doctor also thinks that quinine should be taken with
the pill; but mv experience — though it weighs nothing
Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNTANYEMBE.
595
against what he has endured — has proved to me that
quinine is useless until after the medicine has taken
effect. My stomach could never bear quinine unless
subsequent to the cathartic. A well-known missionary
at Constantinople recommends travellers to take
3 grains of tartar-emetic for the ejection of the bilious
matter in the stomach ; but the reverend doctor
possibly forgets that much more of the system is
disorganized than the stomach ; and though in one or
two cases of a slight attack, this remedy may have
proved successful, it is altogether too violent for an
enfeebled man in Africa. I have treated myself faith-
fully after this method three or four times ; but I
could not conscientiously recommend it. For cases of
urticaria, I could recommend taking 3 grains of tartar-
emetic ; but then a stomach-pump would answer the
purpose as well.
On the 27th we set out for Misonghi. About half-
way I saw the head of the Expedition on the run, and
the motive seemed to be communicated quickly, man
after man, to those behind, until my donkey commenced
to kick, and lash behind with his heels. In a second, J
was made aware of the cause of this excitement, by a
cloud of wild bees buzzing about my head, three or
four of which settled on my face, and stung me fright-
fully. We raced madly for about half a mile, behaving
in as wild a manner as the poor bestung animals.
As this was an unusually long march, I doubted if
the Doctor could march it, because his feet were so
sore, so I determined to send four men back with the
kitanda ; but the stout old hero refused to be carried,
and walked all tlie ^\'ay to camp after a march of
eighteen miles. He had been stung dreadfully in the
head and in the face ; the bees had settled in handfuls
59fi
EOW I FOUXD LIVINGSTONE.
in his hair ; but, ufter partaking of a cup of warm tea
and some food, he was as cheerful as if he had never
travelled a mile.
At Mrera, Central Ukonongo, we halted a day to
grind grain, and to prepare the provision we should
need during the transit of the wilderness between Mrera
and Manyara.
On the 31st of January, at Mwaru, Sultan Ka-mi-
rambo, we. met a caravan under the leadership of a
slave of Sayd bin Habib, who came to visit us in our
camp, which was hidden in a thick clump of jungle.
After he was seated, and had taken his coffee, I asked,
" What is thy news, my friend, that thou hast
brought from Unj'auyembe ?"
" My news is good, master."
" How goes the war ?"
" Ah, Mirambo is where ? He eats the hides even.
He is famished. Sayd bin Habib, my master, hath pos-
session of Kirira. The Arabs are thundering at the
gates of Wilyankuru. Sayd bin Majid, who came from
Ujiji to Usagozi in twenty days, hath taken and slain
' Moto ' (Fire), the King. Simba of Kasera hath taken
up arms for the defence of his father, Mkasiwa of
Unyanyerabe. • The chief of Ugunda hath sent five
hundred men to the field. Ough — Mirambo is where ?
In a month he will be dead of hunger."
" Great and good news truly, my friend."
"Yes — in the name of God."
" And whither art thou bound with thy caravan ?"
" Sayd, the son of Majid, who came from Ujiji, hath
told us of the road that the white man took, that he
had arrived at Ujiji safely, and that he was on his way
back to Unyanyembe. So we have thought that if the
white man could go there, we could also. Lo, the Arabs
Jak. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBE.
897
coine by the hundred by tbe white man's road, to get
the ivory from Ujiji."
" I am that white man."
" You ?"
-Yes."
" Why, it was reported that you were dead — that you
fought with the Wazavira."
" Ah, my friend, these are the words of Njara, the
son of Khamis. See" (pointing to Livingstone), " this
is the wliite man, my father,* whom I saw at Ijjiji. He
is going with me to Unyanyembe to get his cloth, after
which he will return to the great waters."
" "Wonderful ! — thoU sayest truly."
" What hast thou to tell me of the white man at
Unyanyembe ?"
" Which white man ?"
" The white man I left in the house of Sayd, the son
of Salim — my house — at Kwihara."
" lie is dead."
" Dead !"
' Irue.
" You do not mean to say the white man is dead ?"
" True— he is dead."
" How long ago ?"
" Many months now."
"What did he die of?"
'* Homa (fever)."
" Any more of my people dead ?"
" I know not."
" Enough." I looked sympathetically at the Doctor,
and he repHed,
" I told you so. When you described hiui to me as
• It is a courteous custom in Africa to address elderly people as
" Baba " (Father).
59?
BOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
a drunken man^ I knew he could not live. Men who
have been habitual drunkards cannot live in this
country, any more than men who have become slaves
to other vices. I attribute the death that occurred in
my expedition on the Zambezi to much the same
cause."
" Ah, Doctor, there, are two of us gone. I shall be
tlie third, if this fever lasts much longer."
" Oh no, not at all. If you would have died from
fever, you would have died at Ujiji when you had that
severe attack of remittent. Don't think of it. Your
fever now is only the result of exposure to wet. I
never travel during the wet season. This time I have
travelled because I was anxious, and I did not wish to
detain you at Ujiji."
" Well, there is nothing like a good friend at one's
back in this country to encourage him, and keep his
spirits up. Poor Shaw ! He was a bad man ; but I
am sorry — very sorry for him. How many times have
I not endeavoured to cheer him up ! But there was no
life in him. And among the last words I said to him,
before parting, were, ' Remember, if you return to
Unyanyembe, you die !' "
We also obtained news from the chief of Sayd bin
Habib's caravan that several packets of letters and
newspapers, and boxes, had nrrived for me from Zanzibar
by my messengers and Arabs ; that Selim, the son of
Sheikh Hashid of Zanzibar, was amongst the latest
arrivals in Unyanyembe. The Doctor also reminded
me with the utmost good-nature that, according to his
accounts, he had a stock of jellies and crackers, soups,
fish, and potted ham, besides cheese, awaiting hira in
Unyanyembe, and that he would be delighted to share
his good things ; whereupon I was greatly cheered, and,
Jan. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANTEMBE.
599
during the repeated attacks of fever I*feiifFered about
this time, ray imagination loved to dwell upon the
luxuries at Unyanyembe. I pictured myself devouring
the hams and crackers and jellies like a madman. I
lived on my raving fancies. My poor vexed brain
rioted on such homely things as wheaten bread and
butter, hams, bacon, caviare, and I would have thought
no price too high to pay for them. Though so far away
and out of the pale of Europe and America, it was
a pleasure to me, during the terrible state of athumia or
despondency into which I was plunged by ever-recur-
ring fevers, to dwell upon them. I w^ondered that
people who had access to such luxuries should ever get
sick, and become tired of life. I thought that if a
wheaten loaf with a nice pat of fresh butter were pre-
sented to me, 1 would be able, though dying, to spring
up and dance a wild fandango.
Though we lacked the good things of this life above
named, we possessed salted giraffe and pickled zebra
tongues ; we had ugali made by Halimah herself ; we
had sweet potatoes, tea, coffee, dampers, or slap-jacks ;
but I was tired of them. My enfeebled stomach, har-
rowed and irritated with medicinal compounds, with
ipecac, colocynth, tartar-emetic, quinine, and such things,
protested against the coarse food. " Oh, for a wheaten
loaf!" my soul cried in agony. " Five hundred dollars
for one loaf of bread !"
The Doctor, somehow or another, despite the incessant
rain, the dew, fog, and drizzle, the marching, and sore
feet, ate like a hero, and I manfully, sternly, resolved to
imitate the persevering attention he paid to the welfare
of his gastric powers ; but I miserably failed.
Dr. Livingstone possesses all the attainments of a
traveller. His knowledge is great about everything
600
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
concerning Africa — tlie rocks, the trees, the fruits, and
their virtues, are known to him. He is also full of phi-
losophic reflections upon ethnological matters. With
camp-craft, with its cunning devices, he is au fait. His
bed is luxurious as a spring-mattress. Each night he
has it made under his own supervision. First, he has
two straight poles cut, three or four inches in diameter ;
which are laid parallel one with another, at the distance
of two feet ; across these poles are laid short sticks, sap-
lings, three feet long, and over them is laid a thick pile
of grass ; then comes a piece of waterproof canvas and
blankets — and thus a bed has been improvised fit for a
king.
It was at Livingstone's instigation I purchased milch
goats, by which, since leaving Ujiji, we have had a
supply of fresh milk for our tea and coifee three times a
day. Apropos of this, we are great drinkers of these
welcome stimulants ; we seldom halt drinking until we
have each had six or seven cups. We have also been
able to pi'ovide ourselves with music, which, though
harsh, is better than none. I mean the musical screech
of parrots from Manyuema.
Half-way between Mwaru — Kamirambo's village —
and the deserted Tongoni of Ukamba, I carved the
Doctor's initials and my own on a large tree, with the
date February 2nd. I have been twice guilty of this in
Africa : once when we were famishing in Southern
Uvinza I inscribed the date, my initials, and the
word " Starving !" in large letters on the trunk of a
sycamore.
In passing through the forest of Ukamba, we saw
the bleached skull of an unfortunate victim to the priva-
tions of travel. Referring to it, the Doctor remarked
that he could never pass through an African forest,
Feb. 1872.] OUR JOURNEY TO UXTANTEMBE.
COl
with its solemn stillness and serenity, without wishing
to be buried quietly under the dead leaves, where he
would be sure to rest undisturbed. In England there
was no elbow-room, the graves were often desecrated ;
and ever since he had buried his wife in the woods of
Shupanga he had sighed for just such a spot, where
his weary bones would receive the eternal rest they
coveted.
The same evening, when the tent door was down,
and the interior was made cheerful by the light of a
paraffin caudle, the Doctor related to me some incidents
respecting the career and the death of his eldest son,
Robei t. Readers of Livingstone's first book, ' South
Africa,' without which no boy should be, will probably
recollect the dying Sebituane's regard for the little boy
"Robert." Mrs. Livingstone and family were taken to
the Cape of Good Hope, and thence sent to England,
where Robert was put in the charge of a tutor ; but
wearied of inactivity, when he was about eighteen,
he left Scotland and came to Natal, whence he endea-
vored to reach his father. Unsuccessful in his attempt,
he took ship and sailed for New York, and enlisted in
the Northern Army, in a New Hampshire regiment of
Volunteers, discarding his own name of Robert Moffatt
Livingstone, and taking that of Rupert Vincent, that
his tutor, who seems to have been ignorant of his duties
to the youth, miglit not find him. In one of the battles
before Richmond, he was conveyed to a North Carolina
hospital, where he died from his wounds.
On the 7th of February we arrived at the Gombe,
and camped near one of its largest lakes. This lake is
probably several miles in length, and swurnis with
hippopotami and crocodiles.
From this camp 1 despatched Ferajji, the cook, and
602
EOW I FOUND LiriNQSTONE.
Chowpereh to Unyanyembe, to bring the letters and
medicines that were sent to me from Zanzibar, and
meet us at Ugimda, while the next day we moved to
our old quarters on the Gombe, where we were first
introduced to the real hunter's paradise in Central
Africa. The rain had scattered the greater number of
the herds, but there was plenty of game in the vicinity.
Soon after breakfast I took Khamisi and Kalulu with
me for a liunt. After a long walk we arrived near a
thin jungle, where I discovered the tracks of several
animals — boar, antelope, elephant, rhinoceros, hippo-
potamus, and an unusual number of imprints of the
lion's paw. Suddenly I heard Khamisi say, " Master,
master! here is a ' simba !' (lion);" and he came up
to me trembling with excitement and fear — for the
young fellow was an arrant coward — to point out the
head of a beast, which could be seen just above the
tall grass, looking steadily towards us. It immediately
afterwards bounded from side to side, but the" grass was
so high that it was impossible to tell exactly what it
was. Taking advantage of a tree in my front, I crept
quietly onwards, intending to rest the heavy rifle
ajrainst it, as I was so weak from the effects of several
fevers that I felt myself utterly incapable of supporting
my rifle for a steady aim. But my surprise was great
when I cautiously laid it against the tree, and then
directed its muzzle to the spot where 1 had seen him
stand. Looking further away — to where the grass was
thin and scant — I saw the animal bound along at a
great rate, and that it was a lion : the noble monarch
of the forest was in full flight ! From that moment I
ceased to regard him as the "mightiest among the
brutes ;" or his roar as anything more fearful in broad
daylight than a sucking dove's.
Feb. 1872.] OVR JOUENET TO UNTANYEMBE.
603
The next day was also a halt, and unable to contain
my longing for the chase, where there used to be such
a concourse of game of all kinds, soon after morning
coffee, and after despatching a couple of men with
presents to my friend Ma-manyara, of ammonia-bottle
memory, I sauntered out once* more for the park.
Not five hundred yards from the camp, myself and men
were suddenly halted by hearing in our immediate
vicinity, probably within fifty yards or so, a chorus of
roars, issuing from a triplet of lions. Instinctively my
fingers raised the two hammers, as I expected a general
onset on me ; for though one lion might fly, it was
hardly credible that three should. While looking
keenly about I detected, within easy rifle-shot, a fine
hartebeest, trembling and cowering behind a tree, as if
it expected the fangs of the lions in its neck.. Though
it had its back turned to me, I thought a bullet might
plough its way to a vital part, and without a moment's
hesitation I aimed and fired. The animal gave a tre-
mendous jump, as if it intended to take a flying leap
through the tree ; but recovering itself it dashed through
the underbrush in a different direction from that in
which I supposed the lions to be, and I never saw it
again, though I knew I had struck it from the bloody
trail it left; neither did I see or hear anything more
of the lions. I searched far and wide over the park
land for prey of some kind, but was compelled to return
unsuccessful to camp.
Disgusted with my failure, we started a little after
noon for Manyara, at which place we were hospitably
greeted by my friend, who had sent men to tell me that
his white brother must not halt in the woods, hut must
come to his village. We received a present of honey
and food from the chief, which was most welcome to us
604
HOW 2 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
in our condition. Here was an instance of that friendly
disposition among Central African chiefs when they
have not been spoiled by the Arabs, which Dr. Living-
stone found amo-ng- the Babisa and Ba-ulungu, and in
Manyuema. I received the same friendly recognition
from all the chiefs, from Irarera, in Ukaweudi, to Unya-
nyembe, as I did from Ma-manyara.
On the 14th we arrived at Ugunda, and soon after
we had established ourselves comfortably in a hut
which the chief lent us for our use, in came Ferajji
and Chowpereh, bringing with them Sarmian and Uledi
Manwa Sera, who, it will be recollected, were the j;wo
soldiers sent to Zanzibar with letters and for medicines
for Shaw's disease ; and who should Sarraian have in
charge but the deserter Hamdallah, who decamped at
Manyara, 'as we were going to Ujiji. This fellow, it
seems, had halted at Kigandu, and liad informed the
chief and the doctor of the village that he had been
sent by the white man to take back the cloth left there
for the cure of Mabruk Saleem ; and the simple chief
had commanded it to be given up to him upon his mere
word, in consequence of which the sick man had died,
as well as another that I had left in Unyanyembe.
Upon Sarmian's arrival in Unyanyembe from Zanzi-
bar, about fifty days after the Expedition had departed
for Ujiji, the news he received was that the white man
(Shaw) was dead ; and that a man called Hamdallah,
who had engaged himself as one of my guides, but who
had shortly after returned, was at Unyanyembe. He
had left him unmolested until the appearance of Ferajji
and his comiDanion, when they at once, in a body, made
a descent on his hut and secured him. "With the zeal
which always distinguished him in my service, Sarmiau
had procured a forked pole, between the prongs of
Feb. 1872.] OVE JOURXEY TO UXTANTEMBE.
605
which the neck of the absconder was placed ; and a
cross stick, firmly lashed, effectually prevented him from
roJieving himself of the incumbrance attached to him
so deftly.
There were no less than seveij packets of letters and
newspapers from Zanzibar, which had been collecting
during my absence from Unyanyembe. These had
been entrusted at various times to the chiefs of cara-
vans, who had faithfully delivered them at my tembe,
according to their pi'omise to the Consul. There was
a packet for me from Dr. Kirk, which contained two or
three letters for Dr. Livingstone, to whom, of course,
they were at once transfei-red, with my congratulations
that he was not quite forgotten by his friend. In the
same packet there was also a letter to me from Dr. Kirk,
requesting me to take charge of Livingstone's goods
and do the best I could to forward them on to him,
dated 25th September, 1871, five days after I left
Unyanyembe on my apparently hopeless task. It also
contained some wild advice about taking an impossible
route by way of the Ukerewe Lake, but the tone of the
letter was good-natured and hearty.
" "Well, Doctor," said I to Livingstone, " the English
Consul requests me to do all I can to push forward
your goods to you. I am sorry that I did not get the
authority sooner, for I should have atTemi)ted it ; but in
the absence of these instructions I have done the best
I. could by pushing you towards the goods. The
mountain has not been able to advance towards
Mohammed, but Mohammed has been compelled to
advance towards the mountain."
But Dr. Livingt;t(Mie was too deeply engrossed in his
own letters from home, which were just a year old.
I received good and bad news from New York, hut
€0B
EOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the good news was subsequent, and wiped out all feelings
that might have been evoked had I received the bad
only. But the newspapers, nearly a hundred of thein,
New York, Boston, and London journals, were full of
most wonderful news. The Paris Commune was in
arms against the National Assembly ; the Tuileries, the
Louvre, and the ancient city Lutetia Parisiorum had
been set in flames by the blackguards of Saint- Antoine !
French troops massacring and murdering men, women,
and children ; ramj^ant diabolism, and incarnate revenge
were at work in the most beautiful city in the world!
Fair women converted into demons, and dragged by
ruffianly soldiery through the streets to universal exe-
cration and pitiless death ; children of tender age pinned
to the earth and bayoneted ; men, innocent or not,
shot, cut, stabbed, slashed, 'destroyed — a whole city
given up to the summa injuria of an infuriate, reck-
less, and brutal army ! Oh, France ! Oh, Frenchmen !
Such things are unknown even in the heart of bar-
barous Central Africa. We spurned the newspapers
with our feet ; and for relief to sickened hearts gazed
on the comic side of our world, as illustrated in the
innocent pages of ' Punch.' Poor ' Punch !' good-
hearted, kindly-natured ' Punch !' a traveller's benison
on thee ! Thy jokes were as physic ; thy innocent satire
was provocative of hysteric mirth.
Our doors were crowded with curious natives, who
looked with indescribable wonder at the enormous
sheets. I heard tiiein repeat the words, " Khabari
Kisungu " — white man's news — often, and heard them
discussing the nature of such a quantity of news, and
expressing their belief that the *' Wasungu " were
" mbyah sana," and very " mkali ;" by which they
meant to say that the white men were very wicked.
Feb. 1872.] OUB JOURNEY TO UNTANTEMBE. 607
and very smart and clever ; though the term wicked is
often employed to express high admiration.
. On the fourth day from Ugunda, or the 18th of
February, and the fifty-third day from Ujiji, we made
our appearance with flags flying and guns firing in the
valley of Kwihara, and when the Doctor and myself
passed through the portals of my old quarters I formally
welcomed him to Unyanyembe and to my house. Since
the day I had left the Arabs, sick and weary almost
with my life, but, nevertheless, imbued with the high
hope that my mission would succeed, one hundred and
thirty-one days had elapsed — with what vicissitudes of
fortune the reader well knows — during which time I had
journeyed over twelve hundred miles. The myth after
which I travelled through the wilderness proved to be
a fact ; and never was the fact more apparent than
when the Living Man walked with me arm in arm to
my old room, and I said to him, " Doctor, we are at
last at Home !"
MAKING THE MOST OF A HALT.
CHAPTER XVI.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
UxYANTEMBE was now to me a terrestrial Paradise,
Livingstone was no less happy ; he was in comfortable
quarters, which were a palace to his luit in Ujiji. Our
store-rooms were full of the good things of this life,
besides cloth, beads, wire, and the thousand and one
impedimenta and paraphernalia of travel with which I
had loaded over one hjmdred and fifty men at Bagamoyo.
I had seventy-four loads of miscellaneous things, the
most valuable of which were now to be turned over to
Livingstone, for his march back to the sources of the
Nile.
It was a great day with us when, with hammer and
chisel, I broke open the Doctor's boxes, that we might
feast our famished stomachs on the luxuries which were
Feb. 1872.1
HOMEWARD BOUND.
609
to redeem us from the effect of the cacotrophic dourra
and maize food we had been subjected to in the
wilderness. I conscientiously believed that a diet on
potted ham, crackers, and jellies would make me as
invincible as Talus, and that I only required a stout
flail to be able to drive the mighty Wagogo into the
regions of annihilation, should they dare even to wink
in a manner that I disapproved.
The first box opened contained three tins of biscuits,
six tins of potted hams — tiny things, not much larger
than thimbles, which, when opened, proved to be nothing
more than a table-spoonful of minced meat plentifully
seasoned with pepper : the Doctor's stores fell five
hundred degrees below zero in my estimation. Next,
were brought out five pots of jam, one of which was
opened — this was also a delusion. The stone jars
weighed a pound, and in each was found a little over a
tea-spoonful of jam. Verily, we began to think our
hopes and expectations had been raised to too high a
pitch. Three bottles of curry were next produced — but
who cares for curry ? Another box was opened, and
out tumbled a fat dumpy Dutch cheese, hard as a brick,
but sound and good ; though it is bad for the liver in
TJnyamwezi. Then another cheese was seen, but this
was all eaten up — it was hollow, and a fraud. The
third box contained nothing but two sugar-loaves ; the
fourth, candles ; the fifth, bottles^ of salt, Harvey,
Worcester, and Reading sauces, essence of ancliovies,
pepper, and mustard. Bless me ! what food were these
for the revivifying of a moribund such as I was ! The
sixth box contained four shirts, two pairs of stout shoes,
some stockings and shoe-strings ; which delighted the
Doctor so much when he tried them on that he ex-
claimed, "Richard is himself again!" "That man,"
2 R
610
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
said I, " whoever lie is, is a friend, indeed." " Yes,
that is raj friend. Waller."
The five other boxes contained potted meat and soups ;
but the twelfth, containing one dozen bottles of medicinal
brandy, was . gone ; and a strict cross-examination of
Asmani, the head man of Livingstone's caravan, elicited
the fact, that not only was one case of brandy missing,
but also two bales of cloth and four bags of the most
valuable beads in Africa — sami-sami — which are as gold
with the natives.
I was grievously disappointed after the stores had
been examined ; everything proved to be deceptions in
my jaundiced eyes. Out of the tins of biscuits, when
• opened, tliere was only one sound box ; the whole of
which would not make one full meal. The soups — who
cared for meat soups in Africa ? Are there no bullocks,
and sheep, and goats in the land, from which far better
soup can be' made than any that was ever potted?
Peas, or any other kind of vegetable soup, would have
been a luxury; but chicken and game soups! — Vt^hat
nonsense !
I then overhauled my own stores. I found some
fine old brandy and one bottle of champagne still left ;
though it was evident, in looking at the cloth bales,
that dishonesty had been at work ; and some person
happened to suggest Asmani — the head man sent by
Dr. Kirk in change of Livingstone's goods — as the
guilty party. Upon his treasures being examined, I
found eight or ten colored cloths, with the mark of
my own agent at Zanzibar on them. As he was unable
to give a clear account of how they came in his box,
they were at once confiscated, and distributed among
the most deserving of the Doctor's people. Some of
the watchmen also accused him of having entered into
Feb. 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
611
my store-room, and of having abstracted two or three
gorah of domestics from my bales, and of having,
some days afterwards, snatched the keys from the hands
of one of my men, and broken them, lest other people
might enter, and find evidences of his guilt. As Asmani
was proved to be another of the " moral idiots," Living-
stone discharged him on the spot. Had we not have
arrived so soon at Unyanyembe, it is probable that the
entire stock sent from Zanzibar had in time disappeared.
Unyanyembe being rich in fruits, grain, and cattle,
we determined to have our Christmas dinner over
again in style, and, being fortunately in pretty good
health, I was enabled to superintend its preparation.
Never was such prodigality seen in a tembe of Unya-
mwezi as was seen in ours, nor were ever such delicacies
provided.
There were few Arabs in Unyanyembe when we
arrived, as they were investing the stronghold of
Mirambo. About a week after our return, " the little
mannikin," Sheikh Sayd bin Salim — El Wali — who
was the commander-in-chief of their forces, came to
Kwihara from the front. But the little Sheikh was
in no great hurry to ^reet the man he had wronged
so much. As soon as we heard of his arrival we took
the opportunity to send men immediately after the
goods which were forwarded to the Wali's care soon
after Livingstone's departure for Mikindany Bay. The
first time we sent men for them the governor declared
himself too sick to attend to such matters, but the second
day they were surrendered, with a request that the
Doctor would not be very angry at their condition, as
the white ants had destroyed evcrytliing.
The stores this man had detained at Unyanyembe
were in a most sorry state. The expenses were prepaid
612 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
for their carriage to TJjiji, but the goods had been
purposely detained at this place by Sayd bin Salim
since 1867 that he might satisfy his appetite for liquor,
and probably fall heir to two valuable guns that were
known to be with them. The white ants had not only
eaten up bodily the box in which the guns were packed,
but they had also eaten the gunstocks. The barrels
were corroded, and the locks were quite destroyed.
The brandy bottles, most singular to relate, had also
fallen a prey to the voracious and irresistible destroyers
— the white ants — and, by some unaccountable means,
they had imbibed the potent Hennessy, and replaced
the corks with corn-cobs. The medicines had also
vanished, and the zinc pots in which they had been
snugly packed up were destroyed by corrosion. Two
bottles of brandy and one small zinc case of medicines
only were saved out of the otherwise utter wreck.
I also begged the Doctor to send to Sheikh Sayd, and
ask him if he had received the two letters despatched
by him upon his first arrival at XJjiji for Dr. Kirk and
Lord Clarendon ; and if he had forwarded them to the
coast, as he was desired to do. The reply to the
messengers was in the affirmative ; and, subsequently,
I obtained the same answer in the presence of the
Doctor.
On the ,22nd of February, the pouring rain, which
had dogged us the entire distance from Ujiji, ceased, and
we had now beautiful weather ; and while I prepared for
the homeward march, the Doctor was busy writing his
letters, and entering his notes into his journal, which I
was to take to his family. When not thus employed,
we paid visits to the Arabs at Tabora, by whom we
were both received with that bounteous hospitality for
which they are celebrated.
Feb. 1872.]
SOME WARD BOUND.
613
Among the goods turned over by me to Dr. Living-
stone, while assorting such cloths as I wished to retain
for my homeward trip, were —
First-class American sheeting
„ Kaniki (blue stuff)
Medium „ (blue stuff)
„ Dabwani cloth
Barsati cluths
Printed handkerchiefs
Medium Eehani cloth .
„ Ismahili „
„ Sohari „
4 pieces fine Kimguru ( red check)
4 gorah Eehani
Total number of cloths
Dotl
285
16
60
41
28
70
127
20
20
22
8
Yards.
1140
64
240
164
112
280
508
80
80
88
32
697 = 2788 yds.
Besides : —
Cloth, 2788 yards.
Assorted beads, 16 sacks, weight = 992 lbs.
Brass wire, Nos. 5 and 6, 10 fi'aslilah = 350 lbs.
1 canvas tent, waterproof.
1 air-bed.
1 boat (canvas). •
1 bag of tools, carpenter's.
1 rip saw.
2 barrels of tar.
12 sheets of ship's copper = 60 lbs.
Clothes.
1 Jocelyn breech-loader (metallic cartridge).
1 Starr's „ „ „ ^
1 Henry (16-shooter) „ „
1 revolver. ♦
200 rounds revolver ammunition.
2000 „ Jocelyn and Starr's ammunition.
1500 „ Henry rifle ammunition.
Cooking utensils, medicine chest, books, sextant, canvas
bags, &c., &c., &c.
The above made a total of about forty loads. Many
things in the list would have brought fancy prices in
614
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Unyanyembe, especially the carbines and ammunition,
the saw, carpenter's tools, the beads, and wire. Out of
the thirty-three loads which were stored for him in
my tembe — the stock sent to Livingstone, Nov. 1,
1870 — but few of them would be available for his
return trip to Rua and Manyuema. The 696 doti
of cloth which were left to him formed the only
marketable articles of value he possessed ; and in
Manyuema, where the natives manufactured their own
cloth, such an article would be considered a drug ;
while my beads and wire, with economy, would suffice
to keep him and his men over two years in those
regions. His own cloth, and what I gave him, made
in the aggregate 1,393 doti, which, at 2 doti per day
for food, were sufficient to keep him and sixty men 696
days. He had thus four years' supplies. The only
articles he lacked to make a new and completely fitted-
up expedition were the following, a list of which he and
I drew up : —
•A few tins of American wheat-flour.
„ „ 6oda crackers.
„ „ preserved fruits-
„ „ sardines.
„ „ salmon.
10 lbs. Hyson tea.
Some sewing thread and needles.
1 dozen oflScial envelopes.
Nautical Almanac for 1872 and 1873.
1 blank journal.
1 chronometer, stopped.
1 chain for refractory people.
With the articles just named he would have a
total of seventy loads, but without carriers they were
an incumbrance to him ; for, with only the nine
men which he now had, he could go nowhere with
Feb. 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
615
such a splendid assortment of goods. 1 was there-
fore commissioned to enlist, — as soon as T reached
Zanzibar, — fifty freemen, arm them with a gun and
hatchet each man, besides accoutrements, and to
purchase two thousand bullets, one thousand flints,
and ten kegs of gunpowder. The men were to act as
carriers, to follow wherever Livingstone might desire
to go. For, without men, he was simply tantalized
with the aspirations roused in him by the knowledge
that he had abundance of means, which were totally
irrealizable without carriers. All the wealth of London
and New York piled before him were totally unavail-
able to him without the means of locomotion. No
Mnyamwezi engages himself as carrier during war-time.
You who have read the diary of my ' Life in Uaj'a-
nyembe ' know what stubborn Conservatives the Wanya-
mwezi are. A duty lay yet before me which [ owed
to my illustrious companion, and that was to hurry to
the coast as if on a matter of life and death— act for
him in the matter of enlisting men as if he were there
himself — to work for him with the same zeal as I would
for myself — not to halt or rest until his desires should
be gratified. And this I vowed to do ; but it was a
death-blow to my project of going down the Nile, and
getting news of" Sir S. Baker.
The Doctor's task of writing his letters was ended.
He delivered into my hand twenty letters for Great
Britain, six for l^ombay, two for New York, and one
for Zanzibar. The two letters for New York were for
James Gordon Bennett, Junior, as he alone, not his
father, was responsible for the Expedition sent under
my command. I beg the reader's pardon for re})ub-
lishing one of these letters here, as its spirit and style
6X6
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
indicate the man, the mere knowledge of whose hfe or
death was worth a costly Expedition : —
Ujiji, on Tanganika,
East Africa, November, 1871.
James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq.
My dear Sir — It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one
we have never seen — it feels so much like addressing an abstract idea
— but the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley, in this
distant region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise have
felt, and in writing to thank you for the extreme kindness that
prompted you to send him, I feel quite at home.
If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will
easily perceive that I have good reason to use very strong expressions
of gratitude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between four hundi-ed
and five hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical sun, having been
baffled, worried, defeated and forced to return, when almost in sight
of the end of the geographical part of my mission, by a number of
half-caste Moslem slaves sent to me from Zanzibar, instead of men.
The sore heart made still sorer by the woeful sights I had seen of
man's inhumanity to man racked and told on the bodily frame, and •
depressed it beyond measure. I thought that I was dying on my feet.
It is not too much to say that almost every step of the weary sultry
way was in pain, and I reached Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones.
There I found that some five hundred pounds' sterling worth of
goods which I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been
entrusted to a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after squander-
ing them for sixteen months on the way to Ujiji, finished up by
selling off all that remained for slaves and ivory for himself. He
had " divined " on the Koran and found that I was dead. He had
also wi'itten to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves
after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease, and
begged permission to sell off the few goods that his drimkeu appetite
had spared.
He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that
I was alive, and waiting for the goods and men ; but as for morality,
ho is evidently an idiot, and there being no law hero except that of
the dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness, destitute
of everything save a few barter cloths and beads, which I had taken
the precaution to leave hero in case of extreme need.
Tho near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.
Feb. 1872.]
BOMEWAMD BOUND.
617
I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who, on
reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted to
despair on breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have no
success after that. Afterward the idea of despair had to me such a
strong smack of the ludicrous that it was out of the question.
Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of
an English visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man who
went down from Jerusalem to Jericho ; but neither priest, Levite nor
Samaritan could possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan was
close at hand, and one of my people rushed up at the top of his
speed, and. in great excitement, gasped out, " An Englishman coming I
I see him !" and off he darted to meet him.
An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head of
a caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.
I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually
reputed to be ; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was, in-
deed, overwhelming, and I said in my soul, " Let the richest blessings
descend from the Highest on you and yours !"
The news Mi-. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty
political changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic cables;
the election of General Grant, and many other topics riveted my
attention for days together, and had an immediate and beneficial
efiect on my health. I had been without news from home for years
save what I could glean from a few ' Saturday Eeviews ' and
' Punch ' of 1868. ' The appetite revived, and in a week I began to
feel strong again.
Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from
Lord Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I havo
received from the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that the
British Government had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling to my
aid. Up to his arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary aid. I came
unsalaried, but this want is now happily repaired, and 1 am anxious
that you and all my friends should know that, though unclieered by
letter, I have stuck to the task which my friend Sir I?oderick
Murchison set mo with " John Bullish " tenacity, believing that all
would come riglit at last.
The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred
miles in length. The fountains tlioreon are almost innumerable —
that is, it would take a man's lifetime to count them. From the
watershed they converge into four large rivers, and these again into
two mighty streams in the great Nile valley, which begins in ten
degrees to twelve degrees south latitude. It was long ere light
618
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
dawned on the ancient problem and gave me a clear idea of the
drainage. I had to feel my way, and every step of the way, and tvas,
generally, gi-oping in the dark — for who cared where the rivers ran ?
" We drank our fill and let the rest run by."
The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory,
and heard of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and
cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as
afflicted with hydrocephalus.
My lagt work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of
suitable attendants, was following the central line of di-ainage down
through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or, shortly,
Manyema. This line of di'ainage has foiu- large lakes in it. The
fourth I was nei-a: when obliged to turn. It is from ens to three
miles broad, and never can be reached at any point, or at any time of
the year. Two western di-ains, the Lufira, or Bartle Frere's Eiver,
flow into it at Lake Kamolondo. Then the great Eiver Lomame
flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems to form the
western arm of the Nile, on which Petherick traded.
Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and
unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the
whole ; for in it, if I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from an
earthen mound, and the last of the four becomes, at no great distance
off, a large river.
Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two
run south into inner EthioiJia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and
the Kaful.
Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary
of Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus ?
I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I
cannot doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for
home that seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to finish
up by their rediscovery.
Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again un-
accountably been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year on
the way, instead of four months. I must go where they lie at your
expense, ere I can put the natural completion to my work.
And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijiau slavery should
lead to the suppi-ession of the East Coast slave trade, I shall regard
that as a greater matter Dy far than the discovery of all the J^ilo
sources together. Now that you have done with domestic slavery for
ever, lend us your powerful aid toward this great object. This fine
country is blighted, as with a cui'so from above, iu order that thj
Feb. 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
619
slavery privileges of the petty Sultan of Zanzibar may not be in-
fringed, and the rights of the Crown of Portugal, which are mythical,
should be kept in abeyance till some future time when Africa will
become another India to Portuguese slave-traders.
I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great
generosity, and am,
Gratefully yours,
DAVID LIVINGSTONE.
To the above letter I have nothing to add — it speaks
for itself; but T then thought it was the best evidence of
my success. For my own part, I cared not one jot or
tittle about his discoveries, except so far as it concerned
the newspaper which commissioned me for tlie " search."
It is true I felt curious as to the result of his travels ; but,
since he confessed that he had not completed what he
had begun, I felt considerable delicacy to ask for more
than he could afford to give. His discoveries were the
fruits of his own labors — to him they belonged — by
their publication he hoped to obtain his reward, which
he desired to settle on his children. Yet Livingstone had
a higher and nobler ambition than the mere pecuniary
sum he would receive : he followed the dictates of duty.
Never was such a willing slave to that abstract virtue.
His inclinations impelled him home, the fascinations of
which it required the sternest resolves to resist. With
every foot of new ground he travelled over he forged a
chain of sympathy which should hereafter bind the
Christian nations in bonds of love and charity to the
Heathen of the African tropics. If he were able to
complete this chain of love — by actual discovery and
description oi them to embody such peo^iies and nations
as still live in darkness, so as to attract the good and
charitable of his own land to bestir themselves for their
620
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
redemption and salvation — this, Livingstone would con-
sider an ample reward. " A delirious and fatuous enter-
prise, a Quixotic scheme !" some will ga}\ Not it, mj
friends ; for as sure as the sun shines on both Christian
and Infidel, Civilized and Pagan, the day of enlighten-
ment will come ; and, though the Apostle of Africa may
not behold it himself, nor we younger men, nor yet our
children, the Hereafter will see it, and posterity will
recognise the daring pioneer of its civilization.
The following items are extracted in their entirety
from my Diary :
March 11th. — The Arabs have sent me as many as
forty-five letters to carry to the coast. I am turned
courier in my latter days ; but the reason is that no
regularly organized caravans are permitted to leave
Unyanyembe now, because of the war with Mirambo.
What if I had stayed all this time at Unyanyembe
waiting for the war to end ! It is my opinion that the
Arabs will not be able to conquer Mirambo under nine
months yet.
To-night the natives have gathered themselves to-
gether to give me a farewell dance in front of my
house. I find them to be the pagazis of Singiri, chief
of Mtesa's caravan. My men joined in, and, captivated
by the music despite myself, I also struck in, and per-
formed the " liglit fantastic," to the intense admiration
of ray braves, who were delighted to see their master
unbend a little from his usual stiffness.
It is a wild dance altogether. The music is lively,
and evoked from the sonorous sound of four drums,
which are arranged before the bodies of four men, who
stand in the centre of the weird circle. Bombay, as ever
comical, never so much at home as when in the dance
March, 1872.] EOMEWAED BOUND. 621
of the Mrima, has my water-bucket on his head ;
Chowpereh — the sturdy, the nimble, sure-footed Chow-
pereh — has an axe in his hand, and wears a goatskin on
his head ; Baraka has my bearskin, and handles a
spear ; Mabruki, the " Bull-headed," has entered into
the spirit of the thing, and steps up and down like a
solemn elephant ; Ulimengo has a gun, and is a fierce
Drawcansir, and you would imagine he was about to do
battle to a hundred thousand, so ferocious is he in
appearance ; Khamisi and Kamna are before the drum-
mers, back to back, kicking up ambitiously at the stars ;
Asmani, — the embodiment of giant strength, — a tower-
ing Titan, — has also a gun, with which he is dealing
blows in the air, as if he were Thor, slaying myriads
with his hammer. The scruples and passions of us all
are in abeyance ; we are contending demons under the
heavenly light of the stars, enacting only the part of a
weird drama, quickened into action and movement by
the appalling energy and thunder of the drums.
The warlike music is ended, and another is started.
The choragus has fallen on his knees, and dips his head
two or three times in an excavation in the ground, and
a choir, also on their knees, repeat in dolorous tones the
last words of a slow and solemn refrain. The words
are literally translated : —
Choragtts. Oh-oh-oh 1 the white man is going home !
Choir. Oh-oh-oh ! going homo !
Going homo, oh-oh-oh !
Clioragua. To tho happy island on tlio sea.
Where tho beads are plenty, oh-oh-oh f
Choir. Oh-oh ohl whore tho beads are plenty,
Oh-oh-oh!
622
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Choragus. While Singiri has kept us, oh, very long
From our homes very long, oh-oh-oh I
Choir. From our homes, oh-oh-oh !
Oh-oh-oh !
*
CliorajUS. And we have had no food for very long —
We are half-starved, oh, for so long
Bana Singiri I
Choir. For so very long, oh-oh-oh !
Bana Singiri-Singiri !
Singiri ! oh, Singiri !
Choragus. Mirambo has gone to war
To fight against the Arabs ;
The Arabs and Wangwana
Have gone to fight Mirambo !
Choir. Oh-oh-oh ! to fight Mirambo !
Oh, Mirambo ! Mirambo 1
Oh, to fight Mirambo 1
Choragus. But the white man will make us glad.
He is going home ! For he is going home,
Apd he will make us glad ! Sh-sh-sh !
Choir. The white man will make us glad ! Sh-sh-sh !
Sh sh-h-h— ^sh-h-h-h-h-h I
Um-m — mu — mn-m-m — sh !
This is the singular farewell wliich I received from
the "Wanyamwezi of Singiri, and for its remarkable
epic beauty, rhythmic excellence, and impassioned force,
I have immortalized it in the pages of my book, as
one of the most wonderful productions of the chortis-
loving children of Unyamwezi.
March IWi. — The last day of my stay with Living-
stone has come and gone, and the last night we shall
be together is present, and I cannot evade the morrow !
I feel as though I would rebel against the fate which
drives me away from him. X^^^ minutes beat fast, and
March, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 623
grow into hours. Our door is closed, and we are both
of us busy with our own thoughts. What his thoughts
are I know not. Mine are sad. My days seem to
have been spent in an Elysian field; otherwise, why
should I so keenly regret the near approach of the
parting hour ? Have I not been battered by successive
fevers, prostrate with agony day after day lately ?
Have I not raved and stormed in madness? Have I
not clenched my fists in fury, and fought with the wild
strength of despair when in delirium ? Yet, I regret
to surrender the pleasure I have felt in this man's
society, though so dearly purchased. And I cannot
resist the sure advance of time, which flies this night
as if it mocked me, and gloated on the misery it
created ! Be it so ! How many times have I not
suffered the pang of parting with friends ! I wished
to linger longer, but the inevitable would come — Fate
sundered us. This is the same regretful feeling, only
it is more poignant, and the farewell may be for ever !
For ever ? And " for ever," echo the reverberations
»
of a woful whisper.
I have noted down all he has said to-nia-ht ; but the
reader shall not share it with me. It is mine !
I am jealous as he is himself of his Journal ; and I
have written in German text, and in round hand, on
either side of it, on the waterproof canvas cover,
"Positively not to be opened;" to which he has
affixed his signature. I have stenographed every word
he has s^id to me respecting the equable distribution
of certain curiosities among his friends and children,
and his last wish about " his dear old friend. Sir
Roderick Murchison," because he has been getting
anxious about him ever^ since we received the news-
624 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
papers at TJgunda, when we read that the old man was
suffering from a paralytic stroke. I must be sure to
send him the news, as soon as I get to Aden ; and I
have promised that he will receive the message from
me quicker than anything was ever received in Central
Africa.
" To-morrow night, Doctor, you will be alone !"
" Yes ; the house will look as though a death had
taken place. You had better stop until the rains,
which are now near, are over."
*' I would to God I could, my dear Doctor ; but every
day I stop here, now that there is no necessity for me
to stay longer, keeps you from your work and home."
" I know ; but consider your health — you are not
fit to travel. What is it ? Only a few weeks longer.
You will travel to the coast just as quickly when the
rains are over as you will by going now. The plains
Avill be inundated between here and the coast."
" You think so ; but I will reach the coast in forty
days ; if not in forty, I will in fifty — certain. The
thought that I am doing you an important service will
spur me on."
March lith. — At dawn we were up, the bales and
baggage were taken outside of the building, and the
men prepared themselves for the first march towards
home.
We had a sad breakfast together. I could not eat,
my heart was too full ; neither did my companion
seem to have an appetite. We found something
to do which kept us longer together. At 8 o'clock
I was not gone, and I had thought to have been off
at 5 A.M.
" Doctor," said I, " I will leave two men with you,
March, 1872.]
EOMEWAED BOUND.
625
who will stop to-day and to-morrow with you, for it
may be that you have forgotten something in the hurry
of my departure. I will halt a day at Tura, on the
frontier of Unyamwezi, for your last word, and your
last wish ; and now we must part — there is no help for
it. Good-bye."
" Oh, I am coming with you a little way, I must
see you off on the road."
" Thank you. Now, my men. Home ! Kirangozi,
lift the flag, and March !"
The house looked desolate — it faded from our view.
Old times, and the memories of my aspirations and
kindling hopes, came strong on me. The old hills
round about, that I once thought tame and uninteresting,
had become invested with histories and reminiscences
for me. On that burzani I have sat hour after hour,
dreaming, and hoping, and sighing. On that col I stood,
watching the battle and the destruction of Tabora.
Under that roof I have sickened and been delirious, and
cried out like a child at the fate that threatened my
mission. Under that banian tree lay my dead comrade
— poor Shaw ! I would have given a fortune to have
had him by my side at this time. From that liouse I
started on my journey to Ujiji ; to it I returned as to a
friend, with a newer and dearer companion ; and now
I leave all. Already it all appears like a: strange
dream.
We walked side by side ; the men lifted their voices
in a song. I took long looks at Livingstone, to
impress his features thoroughly on my memory.
"The thing is. Doctor, so far as I can understand
it, you do not intend to return homo until you have
satisfied yourself about the 'Sources of the Nile.'
2 S
626
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
When ybii have satisfied yourself, you will come home
and satisfy others. Is it not so ?"
" That is it, exactly. "When your men come back, I
shall immediately start for Ufipa ; then, crossing the
Rungwa River, I shall strike south, and round the
extremity of the Tanganika. Then, a south-east course
will take me to Chicumbi's, on the Luapula. On cross-
ing the Luapula, I shall go direct west to the copper-
mines of Katanga. Eight days south of Katanga, the
natives declare the fountains to be. When I have
found tliem, I shall return by Katanga to the under-
ground houses of Eua. From the caverns, ten days
north-east will take me to Lake Kamolondo. I shall
be able to travel from the lake, in your boat, up the
River Lufira, to Lake Lincoln. Then, coming down
again, I can proceed north, by the Lualaba, to the
fourth lake — which, I think, will explain the whole
problem ; and I will probably find that it "is either
Chowambe (Baker's lake), or Piaggia's lake."
" And how long do you tliink this little journey will
take you ?"
" A year and a half, at the furthest, from the day I
leave Uuyanyembe."
" Suppose you say two years ; contingencies might
arise, you know. It will be well for me to hire these
new men for two years ; the day of their engagement
to begin from their arrival at Unyanyembe."
*' Yes, that will do excellently well.''
" Now, my dear Doctcn-, the best friends must
part. You have come far enough ; let me beg of you
to turn back."
" Well, I will say this to you : you have done what
few men could do — far better than some great travellers
March, 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
627
I know. And I am grateful to you for what you have
done for me. God guide you safe home, and bless you,
my friend."
"And may God bring you safe back to us all, my
dear friend. Farewell !"
" Farewell !"
TVe wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear
myself away before I unmanned myself; but Susi, and
Chumah, and Hamoydah — the Doctor's faithful fellows
— they must all shake and kiss my hands before I could
quite turn away. I betrayed myself!
" Good-bye, Doctor — dear friend !"
" Good-bye !"
" March ! Why do you stop ? Go on ! Are you
not going home ?" And my people were driven before
me. No more weakness. I shall show them such
marching as will make them remember me. In forty
days I shall do what took me three months to perform
before.
My friendly reader, I wrote the above extracts in my
» Diary on the evening of each day. I look at them now
after six months have passed away ; yet I am not ashamed
of them ; my eyes feel somewhat dimmed at the recollec-
tion of the parting. I dared not erase, nor modify what I
had penned, while my feelings were strong. God grant
that if ever you take to travelling in Africa you will get
as noble and true a man for your companion as David
Livingstone ! For four months and four days I lived
witli him in the same house, or in the same boat, or in
the same tent, and I never found a fault in him. I am
a man of a quick temper, and often without sufficient
cause, I dare say, have broken ties of friendship ; but
with Livingstone I never had cause for resentment, but
628
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
each day's life with him added to my admiration for
him.
I am not going to inflict on the reader a repetition of
our march back, except to record certain incidents which
occurred to us as we journeyed to the coast.
March 17th. — We came to the Kwalah River, which
a native of Rubuga called Nyahuba, and another Unya-
huha. Tlie first rain of the Masika season fell on this
day ; I shall be mildewed before I reach the coast.
Last year's Masika began at Bagamoyo, March 23 rd,
and ended 30th April.
The next day I halted the expedition at "Western
Tura, on the Unyamwezi frontier, and on the 20th
arrived at Eastern Tura ; when, soon after, we heard a
loud report of a gun, and Susi and Hamoydah, the
Doctor's servants, with Uredi, and another of my men,
appeared with a letter for *' Sir Thomas MacLear,
Observatory, Cape of Good Hope," and one for
myself, which read as follows : —
" KwiHARA, March 15, 1878.
" Dear Stanley,
" If you can telegraph, on your arrival in
London, be particular, please, to say how Sir Roderick
is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, when you
said that I was ' not yet satisfied about the Sources ;
but as soon as I shall be satisfied, I shall return and
give satisfactory reasons fit for other people.' This is
just as it stands.
I wish I could give you a better word than the
Scotch one to ' put a stout heart to a stey brae ' — (a
steep ascent) — for you will do that ; and I am thankful
that, before •going away, the fever had changed
Maech, 1872.]
nOMEWABD BOUND.
629
into the intermittent, or safe form. I would not have
let you go, but with great concern, had you still been
troubled with the continued type. I feel comfortable
in commending you to the guardianship of the good
Lord and Father of all.
" I am gratefully yours,
" David Livingstone.
*' I have worked as hard as I could copying obser-
vations made in one line of march from Kabuire, back
again to Cazembe, and on to Lake Bangweolo, and am
quite tired out. My large figures fill six sheets of fools-
cap, and many a day will elapse ere I take to copying
again. I did my duty when ill at Ujiji in 1869, and
am not to blame, though they grope a little in the dark
at home. Some Arab letters have come, and I forward
them to you. " D. L.
" Marcb 16, 1872.
" P.S. — I have written a note this morning to Islr.
Murray, 50, Albemarle Street, the publisher, to help
you, if necessary, in sending the Journal by book
post, or otherwise, to Agnes. If you call on him you
will find him a frank gentleman. A pleasant journey
to you.
" David Livingstone.
" To Henry M. Stanley, Esq.,
Wherever bo may bo found."
Several Wangwana arrived at Tura to join our re-
turning Expedition, as they were afraid to pass through
Ugogo by themselves ; others were reported coming;
but as all were sufficiently warned at Unyanyembe that
630
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
tlie caravan would take place positively on the 14th,
I was not disposed to wait longer.
As we were leaving Tura, on the 21st, Susi and
Hamoydah were sent Lack to the Doctor, while we con-
tinued our march to Nghwhalah River.
Two days afterwards we arrived before the village of
Ngaraiso, into which the head of the caravan attempted
to enter, but the angry Wakimbu forcibly ejected them.
On the 24i:h, we encamped in the jungle, in what
is called the " tongoni," or clearing-. It was a most
romantic place, as may be gathered from the sketch
on page 609.
This region was at one period in a most flourishing
state ; the soil is exceedingly fertile ; the timber is
large, and would be valuable near the coast ; and, what
is highly appreciated in Africa, there is an abundance
of water. We camped near a smooth, broad hump of
syenite, at one end of which rose, u^Jright and grand, a
massive square rock, which towered above several small
trees in the vicinity ; at the otber end stood up another
singular rock, which was loosened at the base.
The members of the Expedition made use of tbe great
sheet of rock to grind tbeir grain ; a connnon proceed-
ing in these lands where villages are not near, or when
the people are hostile.
On the 27th of March we entered Kiwyeh. At dawn,
when leaving Mdaburu River, the solemn warning bad
been given that we were about entering Ugogo ; and as
we left Kaniyaga village, with trumpet-like blasts of
the guide's horn, we filed into the depths of an expanse
of rustling Indian corn. Tbe ears were ripe enough for
parching and roasting, and thus was one anxiety dis-
pelled by its appearance ; for generally, in early March,
March, 1872.]
HOME WARD BOUND.
631
caravans sufifer from famine, which overtakes both
natives and strangers.
We soon entered the gum-tree districts, and we knew
we were in Ugogo. The forests of this country
are chiefly composed of the gum and thorn species —
mimosa and tamarisk, with often a variety of wild fruit
trees. The grapes were plentiful, though they were not
quite ripe ; and there was also a round, reddish fruit
with the sweetness of the Sultana grape, with leaves
like a gooseberry -bush. There was another about the
size of an apricot, which was excessively bitter.
Emerging from the entangled thorn jungle, the
extensive settlements of Kiwyeh came into view ; and
to the east of the chief's village we found a camping
place under the shade of a group of colossal baobab.
The population of Kiwyeh is composed of Wakinibu
and Wagogo, in about equal [)roportions. Old Kiwyeh,
who hved in the days of Speke and Grant, is dead, and
his young son reigns over the district. Though the
young man's dominion is fair to the eye, and bis loyal
subjects number their cattle by hundreds, yet his position
is a precarious one, for his extreme youth offers great
temptations to the "Wagogo chiefs about him.
W'e had barely encamped when we heard the boom-
ing, bellowing war horns sounding everywhere, and
we espied messengers darting swiftly in eveiy direc-
tion giving the alarm of war. AVhen first informed
that the horns were calling the people to arm them-
selves, and prepare for war, I half suspectLHl that an
attack was about to be made on the E.xpedition*; but the
words " Urugu, warugu " — (thief! thieves!) — bandied
about, declared the cause. Mukondokii, the chief of the
populous district two days to the north-east, wliere wo
632
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
experienced some excitement when westward-bound,
was marching to attack the young Mtemi, Kiwyeh, and
Kiwyeh's soldiers were called to the fight. The men
rushed to their villages, and in a short time we saw
them arrayed in full fighting costume. Feathers of the
ostrich and the eagle waved over their fronts, or the
mane of the zebra surrounded their heads ; their knees
and ankles were hung with little bells ; joho robes
floated behind, from their necks ; spears, assegais, knob-
sticks, and bows were flourished over their heads, or
held in their right hands, as if ready for hurling. On
each flank of a large body which issued from the prin-
cipal village, and which came at a uniform swinging
double-quick, the ankle and knee bells all chiming in
admirable unison, were a cloud of skirmishers, consist-
ing of the most enthusiastic, who exercised themselves
m mimic war as they sped along. Column after
column, companies, and groups from every village
hurried on past our camp until, probably, there were
nearly a thousand soldiers gone to the war. This scene
gave me a better idea than anything else of the weak-
ness of even the largest caravans which travelled be-
tween Zanzibar and Unyanyembe.
At night the warriors returned from the forest ; the
alarm proved to be without foundation. At first it
was generally reported that the invaders were Wahehe,
or the Wadirigo, as that tribe are scornfully called from
their thieving propensities. The Wahelie frequently
make a foray upon the fat cattle of Ugogo. They
travel from- their own country in the south-east, and
advance through the jungle, and, when about to ap-
proach the herds, stoop down, covering their bodies
with their shields of bull-hide. Having arrived between
Makch, 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
633
the cattle and the herdsmen, they suddenly rise up
and begin to switch the cattle heartily, and, having
started them ofif into the jungle in the care of men
already detailed for the work, they turn about, and
plant their shields before them, to fight the aroused
shepherds.
On the 30th we arrived at Khonze, which is remark-
able for the mighty globes of foliage which the giant
sycamores and baobabs put forth above the plain. The
chief of Khonze boasts of four teflSbes, out of which he
could muster in the aggregate fifty armed men ; yet
this fellow, instigated by the Wanyamwezi residents,
prepared to resist our advance, because I only sent him
three doti — twelve yards of cloth — as honga.
We were halted, waiting the return of a few friendly
Wagogo travellers who had joined us, and who were
asked to assist Bombay in the negotiation of the tribute,
when the Wagogo returned to us at breathless speed, and
shouted out to me, " Why do you halt here ? Do
you wish to die? These pagans will not take the
tribute, but they boast that they will eat up all your
cloth."
The renegade Wanyamwezi who had married into
Wagogo families were always our bane in this country.
As the chief of Khonze came up I ordered the men to
load their guns, and I loaded my own ostentatiously in
his presence, and then strode up to him, and asked if
he had come to take the cloth by force, or if he were
going to accept quietly what I would give him. As
the Mnyamwezi who caused this show of hostilities was
beginning to speak, I caught him by the throat, and
threatened to make his nose flatter if he attempted to
speak again in my presence, and to shoot him first, if
634
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
we should be forced to fight. The rascal was theu
pushed away into the rear. • The chief, who was highly
amused with this proceeding, laughed loudly at the
discomfiture of the parasite, and in a short time he
and I had settled the tribute to our mutual satisfaction,
and we parted great friends. The Expedition arrived
at Sanza that night.
. On the 31st we came to Kamyenyi, to tlie great
Mtemi — Magomba's — whose son and heir is Mtundu
M'gondeh. As we passed by the tembe of the great
Sultan, the msagira, or chief counsellor, a pleasant grey-
haired man, was at work making a thorn fence around
a patch of young corn. He greeted the caravan with
a sonorous " Yambo," and, putting himself at its head,
he led the way to our, camp. "When introduced to me
he was very cordial in his manner. He was offered a
kiti — stool — and began to talk very affably. He re-
membered my predecessors. Burton, Speke, and Grant,
very well ; declared me to 1?e much younger than any
of them ; and, recollecting that one of the white men
used to drink asses' milk (Burton ?), ofi"ered to procure
me some. The way I drank it seemed to give him
very great satisfaction.
His son, Unamapokera, was a tall man of thirty or
thereabouts, and he conceived a great friendship for
me, and promised that the tribute should be very light,
and that he would send a man to show me the way to
Myumi, which was a village on the frontier of Kanyenyi,
by which I would be enabled to avoid the rapacious
Kisewali, who was in the habit of enforcing lai-ge
tribute from caravans.
With the aid of Unamapokera and his father, we
contrived to be mulcted very lightly, for we only paid
April, 1872.]
EOMEWABD BOUND.
635
ten doti, while Burton was compelled to pay sixty doti,
or two hundred and forty yards of cloth.
On the 1st of April, rising early, we reached Myumi,
after a four hours' march ; then plunged into the
jungle, and, about 2 p.m., arrived at a large ziwa, or
pond, situate in the middle of the jungle , and on the
next day, at 10 a.m., reached the fields of Mapanga.
We were j^assing the village of Mapanga to a resting-
[jnamapoki:ra.
place beyond the village, where we might breakfast and
settle the honga, when a lad rushed forward to meet
us, and asked us where we were going. Having
received a reply that we were going to a oamping-])lace,
he hastened on ahead, and presently wc heard hlni
talking to some men in a field on our right.
In the meantime, we had found a comfortable shady
636
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
place, and had come to a halt ; the men were reclining
on the ground, or standing up near their respective
loads ; Bombay was about opening a bale, when we
heard a great rush of men, and loud shouts, and, imme-
diately after, out rushed from the jungle near by a
body of forty or fifty armed men, who held their spears
above their heads, or were about to draw their bows,
with a chief at their head, all uttering such howls of
rage as only savages can, which sounded like a long-
drawn " Hhaat-uh — Hhaat — uhh-uhh," which meant,
unmistakably, "You will, will you? No, you will
not !" — at once determined, defiant, and menacing.
I had suspected that the voices I heard boded no
good to us, and I had accordingly prepared my weapons
and cartridges. Yerily, what a fine chance for adven-
ture this was ! One spear flung at us, or one shot fired
into this minatory mob of savages, and the opposing
bands had been plunged into a fatal conflict ! There
would have been no order of battle, no pomp of war,
but a murderous strife, a quick firing of breech-loaders,
and volleys from flint-lock muskets, mixed with the
flying of spears and twanging of bows, the cowardly
running away at once, pursued by yelping savages ;
and who knows how it all would have terminated ?
Forty spears against forty guns — but how many guns
would not have decamped ? Perhaps all, and I should
have been left with my boy gun-bearers to have my
jugular deliberately severed, or to be decapitated,
leaving my head to adorn a tall pole in the centre of a
Kigogo village, like poor Monsieur Maizan's at Dege la
Mhora, in Uzaramo. Happy end of an Expedition ! .
And the Doctor's Journal lost for ever — the fruits of
six years' labor !
April, 1872.]
EOMEWABD BOUND.
637
But in tliis land it will not do to fight unless driven
to the very last extremity. No belligerent Mungo Park
can be successful in Ugogo unless he has a sufiicient
force of men with him. "With five hundred Europeans
I could traverse Africa from north to south, by tact^
and the moral effect that such a force would inspire.
Very little fighting would be required.
Without rising from the bale on which I was seated,
I requested the kirangozi to demand an explanation of
their furious hubbub and threatening aspect ; — if they
were cOme to rob us.
" No," said the chief; "we do not want to stop the
road, or to rob you ; but we want the tribute."
" But don't you see us halted, and the bale opened
to send it to you? We have come so far from your
village that after the tribute is settled we can proceed
on our way, as the day is yet young."
The chief burst into a loud laugh, and was joined by
ourselves. He evidently felt ashamed of his conduct ;
for he voluntarily offered the explanation, that as he
and his men were cutting wood to make a new fence
for his village, a lad came up to him, and said that a
caravan of Wangwana were about passing through the
country without stopping to explain who they were.
We were soon very good friends. He begged of me
to make rain for him, as his crops were suffering, and
no rain had fallen for months. I told him that though
white people were very great and clever people, much
superior to the Arabs, yet we could not make lain.*
Though very much disappointed, he did not doubt my
. statement, and after receiving his honga, which was
very ligbt, he permitted us to go on our way, and
even accompanied us some distance to show us the rbad.
638
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
At 3 P.M. we entered a thorny jungle ; and by 5 p.m.
we had arrived at Muhalata, a district lorded over by
the chief Nyamzaga. A Mgogo, of whom I made a
friend, proved very stanch. He belonged to Mulowa,
a country to the S.S.E., and south of Kulabi ; and was
active in promoting my interests by settling the tribute,
with the assistance of Bombay, for me. When, on the
next day, we passed through Kulabi on our way to
Mvumi, and the Wagogo were about to stop us for the
honga, he took upon himself the task of relieving us
from further toll, by stating we were from Ugogo qr
Kanyenyi. The chief simply nodded his head, and we
passed on. It seems that the Wagogo do not exact
blackmail of those caravans who intend only to trade
in their own country, or have no intention of passing
beyond their own frontier.
Leaving Kulabi, we traversed a naked, red, loamy
plain, over which the wind from the heights of Usagara,
now rising a bluish-black jumble of mountains in our
front, howled most fearfully. With clear, keen, in-
cisive force, the terrible blasts seemed to penetrate
through and through our bodies, as though we were
but filmy gauze. Manftilly battling against this mighty
'* peppo " — storm — we passed through Mukamwa's, and
crossing a broad sandy bed of a stream we entered the
territory of Mvumi, the last tribute-levying chief of
Ugogo.
The 4th of April, after sending Bombay and my
Triendly Mgogo with eight doti, or thirty-two yards of
cloth, as a farewell tribute to the Sultan, we struck off
through the jungle, and in five hours we were on the
borders of the wilderness of " Marenga Mkali " — the
" hard," bitter or brackish, water.
April, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND.
639
From our camp I despatched three men to Zanzibar
with letters to the American Consul, and telegraphic
despatches for the ' Herald,' with a request to the Consul
that he would send the men back with a small case
or two containing such luxuries as hungry, worn-out,
and mildewed men would appreciate. The three mes-
sengers were charged not to halt for anything — rain or
no rain, river or inundation — as if they did not hurry
up we should catch them before they reached the coast.
With a fervent " Inshallah, bana," they departed.
On the 5th, with a loud, vigorous, cheery " Hurrah !"
we plunged into the depths of the wilderness, which,
with its eternal silence and solitude, was far preferable
to the jarring, inharmonious discord of the villages
of the Wagogo. For nine hours we held on our
way, starting with noisy shouts the fierce rhinoceros,
the timid quagga, and the herds of antelopes which
crowd the jungles of this broad salina. On the 7th,
amid a pelting rain, we entered Mpwapwa, where my
Scotch assistant, Farquhar, died.
We had performed the extraordinary march of 338
Eiiglish statute miles from the 14th of March to the
7th of April, or within twenty-four days, inclusive of
halts, which was a little over fourteen miles a day.
Leukole, the chief of Mpwapwa, with whom I left
Farquliar, gave the following account of the death of
the latter : —
" The white man seemed to be improving after you
left him, until the fifth day, when, while atteinj)tiiig
to rise and walk out of his tent, he fell back ; from
that minute he got worse and worse, and in tlie after-
noon he died, like one going to sleep. His legs and
abdomen had swollen considerably, and something, I
640
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
think, broke within him when he fell, for he cried out
like a man who was very much hurt, and his servant
said, ' The master says he is dying.'
'* We had him carried out under a large tree, and
after covering him with leaves there left him. His
servant took possession of his things, his rifle, clothes,
and blanket, and moved off to the tembe of a Mnya-
mwezi, near Kisokweh, where he lived for three months,
when he also died. Before he died he sold his master's
rifle to an Arab going to Unyanyembe for ten doti
(forty yards of cloth). That is all I know about it."
He subsequently showed me the hollow into which
the dead body of Farquhar was thrown, but I could not
find a vestige of his bones, though we looked sharply
about that we might make a decent grave for them.
Before we left Unyanyembe fifty men were employed
two days carrying rocks, with which I built up a solid
enduring pile around Shaw's grave, eight feet long and
five feet broad, which Dr. Livingstone said would last
hundreds of years, as the grave of the first white man
who died in Unyamwezi. But though we could not
discover any remains of the unfortunate Farquhar, we
collected a large quantity of stones, and managed to
raise a mound near the banks of the stream to com-
memorate the spot where his body was laid.
It was not until we had entered the valley of the
Mukondokwa River that we experienced anything like
privation or hardship from the Masika. Here the
torrents thundered and roared ; the river was a mighty
brown flood, sweeping downward with an almost resist-
less flow. The banks were brimful, and broad nullahs
were full of water, and the fields were inundated, and still
the rain came surging down in a shower that warned us
Apbil, 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUXD.
641
of what we might expect dnring our transit of the
sea-coast region. Still we urged our steps onward
like men to whom every moment was precious — as if a
deluge was overtaking us. Three times we crossed
this awful flood at the fords by means of ropes tied to
trees from bank to bank, and arrived at Kadetamare
on the 11th, a most miserable, most woe-begone set of
human beings ; and camped on a hill opposite Mount
Kibwe, which rose on the right of the river — one of the
tallest peaks of the range.
On the 12th of April, after six hours of the weariest
march I had ever undergone, we arrived at the mouth
of the Mukoudokwa Pass, out of which the river
debouches into the Plain of Makata. "We knew that
it was an unusual season, for the condition of the
country, though bad enough the year before, was as
nothing compared to this year. Close to the edge of
the foaming, angry flood lay our route, dipping dowu
frequently into deep ditches, wherein we found ourselves
sometimes up to the waist in water, and sometimes up
to the throat. Urgent necessity impelled us onward,
lest we might have to camp at one of these villages
until the end of the monsoon rains ; so we kept on, over
marshy bottoms, up to the knees in mire, under jungly
tunnels dripping with wet, then into sloughs arm-pit
deep. Every channel seemed filled to overflowing, yet
down the rain poured, beating the surface of the river
into }^ellowish foam, pelting us until we were almost
breathless. Half a day's battling against such difli-
culties brought us, after crossing tlie river, once again
to the dismal village of Mvumi.
We passed the night fighting swarms of black
and voracious mosquitoes, and in heroic endeavors to
642
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
win repose in sleep, in which we were partly successful,
owing to the utter weariness of our bodies.
On the 13th we struck out of the village of Mvumi.
It had rained the whole night, and the morning brought
no cessation. Mile after mile we traversed, over fields
covered by the inundation, until we came to a branch
river-side once again, where the river was narrow,
and too deep to ford in the middle. We proceeded
to cut a tree down, and so contrived that it should
fall right across the stream. Over this fallen tree the
men, bestriding it, cautiously moved before them their
bales and boxes ; but one young fellow, Rojab —
through over-zeal, or in sheer madness — took up the
Doctor's box which contained his letters and Journal
of his discoveries on his head, and started into the
river. I had been the first to arrive on the opposite
bank, in order to superintend the crossing, when I
caught sight of this man walking in the river with
the most precious box of all on his head. Suddenly
he fell into a deep hole, and the man and box
went almost out of sight, while I was in an agony
at the fate which threatened the despatches. Fortu-
nately, he recovered himself and stood up, while I
shouted to him, with a loaded revolver pointed at his
head, " Look out ! Drop that box, and I'll shoot
you."
All the men halted in their work while they gazed
at their comrade who was thus imperilled by bullet
and flood. The man himself seemed to regard the
pistol with the greatest awe, and after a few desperate
efforts succeeded in getting the box safely ashore. As
the articles within were not damaged, Rojab escaped
punishment, with a caution not to touch the box again
Apeil, 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
643
on any account, and it was transferred" to the keeping
of the sure-footed and perfect pagazi, Maganga.
From this stream, in about an hour, we came to the
main river, but one look at its wild' waters was enough.
We worked hard to construct a raft, but after cutting
down four trees and lashing the green logs together, and
pushing them into the whirling current, we saw them
sink like lead. We then tied together all the strong
rope in our possession, and made a line 180 feet long,
with one end of which tied round his body, Chowpereh
was sent across to lash it to a tree. He was carried far
down the stream, but being an excellent swimmer he
succeeded in his attempt. ' The bales were lashed around
th§ middle, and, heaved into the stream, were dragged
through the river to the opposite bank, as well as the
tent, and such things as could not be injured mucli by
the water. Several of the men, as well as myself, were
also dragged through the water; each of the boys being
attended by the best swimmers ; but when we came to
the letter-boxes and valuables, we could suggest no
means to take them over. Two camps were accordingly
made, one on each side of tlie stream ; the one on the
bank which I liad just left occupying an ant-hill of
considerable heiglit ; while my party had to content
itself with a flat, miry marsh. An embankment of
soil, nearly a foot high, was thrown up in a circle
thirty feet in diameter, in the centre of which my tent
was pitched, and around it bootlis were erected.
It was an extraordinary and novel position that we
found ourselves in. Within twenty feet of our camp
was a rising river, with flat, low banks; above, us was a
gloomy, weeping sky ; surrounding us on three sides
was an immense forest, on whose branches we licard
344,
BOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
the' cDBstant, pattering rain ; beneath our feet w.is a
gre?&t depth of mud, black and loathsome ; add to these
th^ thought that the river might overflow, and sweep
us to utter destruction.
In the morning the river was still rising, and an
inevitable doom eeemed to hang over us. There was
vet time to act — to bring over the people, with the most
valuable effects of the Expedition — as I considered Dr.
Livingstone's Journal and letters, and my own papers,
«f far greater value than anything else. While looking
at the awful river an idea struck me that I might pos-
sibly carry the boxes across, one at a time, by cutting
two slender poles, and tying cross sticks to them, making
a kind of hand-barrow, on which a box might rest
when lashed to it. Two men swimming across, at the
same time holding on to the rope, with the ends of the
poles resting on the men's shoulders, I thought, would
be enabled to convey over a 70 lb. box with ease. In a
short time one of these was made, and six couples of
the strongest swimmers were prepared, and stimulated
with -a rousing glass of stiff grog each man, with a
promise of cloth to each also if tliey succeeded in
getting everything ashore undamaged by the water.
When I saw with what ease they diagged themselves
across, the barrow on their shoulders, I wondered that
I had not thought of the plan before. Within an hour
after the first couple had gone over, the entire Expedition
was safe on the eastern bank ; and at once breaking
camp, we marched north through the swampy forest,
which in some places was covered with four feet of water.
Seven hours' constant splashing brought us to Rehen-
neko, after experiencing several queer accidents. We
were now on the verge only of the inundated plain of
Apbil, 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
645
the Makata, which, even with the last year's rain, was
too horrible to think of undertaking again in cold blood.
We were encamped ten days on a hill near Rehenneko,
or until the 25th, when, the rain having entirely ceased,
we resolved to attempt the crossing of the Makata.
The bales of cloth had all been distributed as presents
to the men for their work, except a small quantity which
I retained for the food of my own mess.
But we should have waited a month longer, for the
inundation had not abated four inches. However, after
we once struggled up to our necks in water, it was
useless to turn back. For two marches of eight hours
each we plunged through slush, mire, deep sloughs,
water up to our necks, and muddy cataclysms, swam
across nullahs, waded across gullies, and near sunset
of the second day arrived on the banks of the
Makata River. My people are not likely to forget that
night ; not one of them was able to sleep until it was
long past midnight, because of the clouds of mosquitoes,
which threatened to eat us all up ; and when the horn
sounded for the march of another day there was not one
dissentient amongst them.
It was 5 A.M. when we began the crossing of the
Makata River, but beyond it for six miles stretched one
long lake, the waters of which flowed gently towards
the Wami. This was the confluence of the streams :
four rivers were here gathered into one. The natives
of Kigongo warned us not to attempt it, as the water
was over our heads ; but I had only to give a hint to
the men, and we set on our way. Even the water —
we were getting quite amphi])ious — was better than the
horrible filth and piles of decaying vegetation which
were swept against the boma of the village.
646
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
We were soon up to our armpits, then the water
shallowed to the knee, then we stepped up to the neck,
and waded on tiptoe, supporting the children above
the water; and the same experiences occurred as
those which we suffered the day before, until we were
halted on the edge of the Little Makata, which raced
along at the rate of eight knots an, hour ; but it was
only fifty yards wide, and beyond it rose a high bank,
and dry park lands which extended as far as Simbo. We
had no other option than to swim it ; but it was a slow
operation, the current was so swift and strong. Activity
and zeal, high rewards, presents of money, backed by
the lively feeling that we were nearing home, worked
wonders, and in a couple of hom's we were beyond the
Makata.
Cheery and hopeful, we sped along the dry, smooth
path that now lay before us, with the ardor and
vivacity of heroes, and the ease and power of veterans.
We rolled three ordinary marches iuto one that day,
and long before night arrived at Simbo.
On the 29th we crossed the Ungerengeri, and as we
came to Simbamwenni — the " Lion City " of Useguhha
— lo ! what a change ! The flooded river had swept
the entire front wall of the strongly-walled city away,
and about fifty houses had been destroyed by the torrent.
Villages of Waruguru, on the slopes of the Uruguru
Mountains — Mkambaku range — had also suffered dis-
astrously. If one- fourth of the reports we heard
were true, at least a hundred people must have pe-
rished.
The Sultana had fled, and the stronghold of Kisa-
bengo was no more ! A deep canal that lie had caused
to be excavated when alive, to bring a branch of the
April, 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
647
Ungerengeri near his city — which was his glory and
boast — proved the ruin of Simbamwenni. After the
destruction of the place the river had formed a new
bed, about 300 yards from the city. But what asto-
nished us most were the masses of debris which seemed
to be piied everywhere, and the great numbers of trees
that were prostrate ; and they all seemed to lie in the
same direction, as if a strong wind had come from the
south-west. The aspect of the Ungerengeri valley was
completely changed — from a Paradise it was converted
into a howling waste.
We continued our march until we reached Ulagalla,
and if was evident, as we advanced, that an unusual
storm had passed over the land, for the trees in some
places seemed to lie in swathes.
A most fatiguing and long march brought us to
Mussoudi, on the eastern bank of the Ungereaigei i ;
but long before we reached it we realized that a terrific
destruction of human life 'and property had occurred.
The extent and nature of the calamity may be imagined,
when I state that nearly oxe hundred villages,
according to Mussoudi's report, were swept away.
Mussoudi, the Diwan, says that the inhabitants had
gone to rest as usual — as they had done ever since he
had settled in the valley, twenty-five years ago — when,
in the middle of the night, they heard a roar like many
thunders, which woke them up to the fact that death was
at work in the shape of an enormous volume of water,
that, like a wall, came down, tearing the tallest trees
with it, carrying away scores of villages at one fell,
sure swoop into utter destruction. The scene six days
after the event — when the river has subsided into its
normal breadth and depth during the monsoons — is
simply awful. Wherever we look, we find something
648
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
very suggestive of the devastation that has visited the
country ; fields of corn are covered with many feet of
sand and debris ; the sandy bed the river has deserted
is about a mile wide ; and there are but three villages
standing of all that I noticed when eti route to Unya-
nyembe. When I asked Mussoudi where the people had
gone to, he replied, " God has taken most of them, but
some have gone to Udoe." The surest blow ever struck
at the tribe of the "Wakami was indeed given by the
hand, of God ; and, to use the words of the Diwan,
" God's power is wonderful, and who can resist him !"
I again resort to my Diary, and extract the following :
April 30th. — Passing Msuwa, we travelled hurriedly
through the jungle which saw such hard work with
us when going 'o Unyanyembe. What dreadful odors
and indescribable loathing this jungle produces ! It is
so dense that a tiger could not crawl through it ; it is
so impenetrable that an elephant could not force
his way ! Were a bottleful of concentrated miasma,
such as we inhale herein, collected, what a deadly
poison, instantaneous in its action, undiscoverable in its
properties, would it be ! I thiuk it would act quicker
than chloroform, be as fatal as prussic acid.
Horrors upon horrors are in it. Boas above our
heads, snakes and scorpions under our feet. Land-
crabs, terrapins, and iguanas move about in our vicinity.
Malaria is in the air we breathe ; the road is infested
with " hot-water " ants, which bite our legs until we
dance and squirm about like madmen. Yet, somehow,
we arc fortunate enough to escape annihilatioUj and
many another traveller miglit also. Yet here, in verity,
are the ten plagues of Egypt, tlirough which a traveller
in these regions must run the gauntlet :
Mat, 1872.1
HOMEWARD BOUND.
649
1. Plague of boas.
2. Eed ants, or " hot-water."
3. Scorpions.
4. Thorns and spear cacti.
5. Numerous impediments.
6. Black mud knee-deep.
7. Suffocation from the density of the jungle.
8. Stench.
9. Thorns in the road.
10. Miasma.
May \st. Kingaru Hera. — We heard news of a
great storm having raged at Zanzibar, which has
destroyed every house and every ship, — so the story
runs ; — and the same destruction has visited Bagamoyo
and Whinde, they say. But I am by this time pretty
well acquainted with the exaggerative tendency of the
African. It is possible tliat serious loss has been
sustained, from the evidences of the elfects of the storm
in tliC interior. I hear, also, that there are white men
at Bagamoyo, who are about starting into the country
to look after me (?). Who would look after me, I
cannot imagine. I think they must have some confused
idea of my Expedition ; though, how they came to know
that I was looking for any man 1 cannot conceive, be-
cause I 'never told a soul until I reached Unyanyembe.
May 2nd. JRosako. — I had barely arrived at the
village before the three men I despatched from Mvumi,
Ugogo, entered, bringing with them from the generous
American Consul a few bottles of champagne, a few
pots of jam, and two boxes of Boston crackers. These
were most welcome after my terrible experiences in the
Makata Valley. Inside one of these boxes, carefully
put up by the Consul, were four numbers of the
' Herald one of which contained my correspondence
from Unyanyembe, wherein were some curious typo-
650
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
graphical errors, especially in figures and African
names. I suppose my writing was wretched, owing to
my weakness. In another are several extracts from
various newspapers, in which I learn that many edi-
tors regard the Expedition into Africa as a myth.
Alas ! it has been a terrible, earnest fact with me ;
nothing but hard, conscientious work, privation, sick-
ness, and almost death. Eighteen men have paid the
forfeit of their lives in the undertaking. It certainly
is not a myth — the death of my two white assistants ;
they, poor fellows, found their fate in the inhospitable
regions of the interior.
One of these critical articles, which emanated from
the pen of a Tennessee editor, after humorous banter of
the Expedition, ends as follows :
" The fate of that Expedition is fixed, and unless Livingstone
makes his reappearance in civilized society we need never exjiect to
hear from that 'Herald' commissioner again. He'll get into some
other big Makata swamp, and go the way of his hapless dog ' Omar.'
Sic semper."
So, while I was travelling in Africa, upon an errand
that I supposed, in my innocence, would have com-
mended itself to most Christians, there were people
praying for my failure. It is wonderful what little
difierence exists between civilization and barbarism —
what a thin line divides some white men from negro
savages. The latter I have found kind and agreeable
people when well treated — the sentiment embodied in
the above extract proves to me what I may expect
when I reach home. At all events, I have the laugh
on my side now. If I only live to reach home I may
have occasion to laugh more.
One of my letters received from Zanzibar by my
messengers states that there is an expedition at Baga-
Mat, 1872.] HOMEWARD BOUND. 651
moyo called the " Livingstone Search and Relief Expe-
dition." What will the leaders of it do now ? Living-
stone is found and relieved already. Livingstone says
he requires nothing more. It is a misfortune that they
did not start earlier ; then they might, with propriety,
proceed, and be welcomed.
May 4:th. — Arrived at Kingwere's Ferry, hut we
were unable to attract the attention of tlie canoe
paddler. Between our camp and Bagamoyo we have
an inundated plain that is at least four miles broad.
The ferrying of our Expedition across this broad
watery waste will occupy considerable time.
Jiay 5th. — Kingwere, the canoe proprietor, came
about 1] A.M. from his village at Gongoni, beyond the
watery plain. By his movements I am fain to believe
him to be a descendant of some dusky King Log, for I
have never seen in all this land the attributes and
peculiarities of that royal personage so faithfully illus-
trated as in Kingwere. He brought two canoes with
him, short, cranky things, in which only twelve of us
could embai'k at a time. It was 3 o'clock in the after-
noon before we arrived at Gongoni village.
iJ/ay 6ih. — After impressing Kingwere with the
urgent necessity of quick action on his part, with a
promise of an extra five-dollar gold piece, I had the
satisfaction to behold the last man reach my camp at
3.30 P.M.
An hour later, and we are en route, at a pace that I
never saw equalled at any time by my caravan. Every
man's feelings are intensified, for there is an animated,
nay, headlong, impetuosity about their movements tliat
indicates but too well what is going on in their minds.
Surely, my own are a faithful inde\ to their fi'clings ;
and I do not feel a whit too proud to acknowledge the
652
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
great joy that possesses me. I feel proud to think that
I have been successful ; but, honestly, I do not feel so
elated at that as at the hope that to-morrow I shall sit
before a table bounteous with the good things of this
life. How I will glory in the hams, and potatoes, and
good bread ! "What a deplorable state of mind, is it
not ? Ah, my friend, wait till you are reduced to a
skeleton by gaunt famine and coarse, loathsome food —
until you have waded a Makata swamp, and marched
525 miles in thirty-five days through such weather as
we have had — then you will think such pabula, food fit
for gods !
Happy are we that, — after completing our mission,
after the hurry and worry of the march, after the
anxiety and vexation suffered from fractious tribes, after
tramping for the last fifteen days through mire and
Stygian marsh, — we near Beulah's peace and rest ! Can
we do otherwise than express our happiness by firing
away gunpowder uutil our horns are emptied — then
shout our " hurrahs " until we are hoarse — then, with
hearty, soul-inspiring " Yambos," greet every mother's
son fresh from the sea ? Not so, think the Wangwana
soldiers ; and I so sympathize with them that I permit
them to act their maddest without censure.
At sunset we enter the town of Bagamoyo. " More
pilgrims come to town," were the words heard in
Beulali. " The white man has come to town," were
the words we heard in Bagamoyo. And we shall cross
the water to-morrow to Zanzibar, and shall enter the
golden gate ; we shall see nothing, smell nothing,
taste nothing that is offensive to the stomach any
more !
The kirangozi blows his horn, and gives forth blasts
potential as Astolpho's, as the natives and Arabs throng
Mat, 1872.] EOMEWARB BOUND
653
around us. And that bright flag', whose stars haye
Waved over the waters of the great lake in Central
Africa, which promised relief to the harassed Living-
stone when in distress at Ujiji, returns to the sea once
again — torn, it is true, but not dishonoured — tattered,
but not disgraced.
As we reached the middle of the town, I saw on the
steps of a large white house a white man, in flannels
and helmet similar to that I wore ; he was young and
Teddish-whiskered ; he had a bright, lively, humorous
Tace, while his head was slightly inclined oh one side,
which gave him somewhat of a pensive appearance. I
thought myself rather akin to white men in general,
and I walked up to him. He advanced towards me,
and we shook hands — did everything but embrace.
" Won't you walk in ?" said he.
" Thanks."
" What will you have to drink — beer, stout, brandy ?
Eh, by George ! I congratulate you on your splendid
success," said he, impetuously.
I knew him immediately. He was an Englishman.
It is their habit to do things after that fashion ; but it
was different in Central Africa. (Splendid success !
Is that the view they take of it? It is better still.
But how does he know anything about it ? Oh, I forgot.
My messengers have been talking, I see.)
" Thanks. I will take anything you like to give
me.
" Let's have soiiie beer, boy, quick, or I will knock
seven d s out of you," said he, in a lively tone.
It Avould be useless to relate every detail of the
conversation that took place between us. He soon
informed me, in that light, vivacious way peculiarly
his own, who he was, what he came for, what were his
654
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
hopes, his ideas, and his feelings upon almost every
subject. He was Lieut. William Henn, R.N., chief
of the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, about
to be despatched by the Royal Geographical Society to
find and relieve Livingstone. The former chief, as the
expedition was at first organized, was Lieut. Llewellyn
S. Dawson, who, as soon as he heard from my men
that I had found Livingstone, had crossed over to
Zanzibar, and, after consultation with Dr. John Kirk,
had resigned. He had now nothing further to do with
it^ the command having formally devolved on Lieut.
Henn. A Mr. Charles New, also, missionary from
Mombasah, had joined the expedition*, but he had
resigned too. So now there were left but Lieut. Henn
and Mr. Oswald Livingstone, second son of the Doctor.
" Is Mr. Oswald Livingstone here ?" I asked, with
considerable surprise.
" Yes ; he will be here directly."
" What are you going to do now ?" I asked.
" I don't think it worth my while to go now. You
have taken the wind out of our sails completely. If
you have relieved him, I don't see the use of my going.
Do you ?"
" Well, it depends. You know your own orders best.
If you have come only to find and relieve him, I can
tell you truly he is found and relieved, and that he
wants nothing more than a few canned meats, and some
other little things which I dare say you have not got.
I have his list in his own handwriting with me. But
his son must go anyhow, and I can get men easily
enough for him."
" Well, if he is relieved, it is of no use my going.
««««««
I thought I should have some good sport. I am very
May, 1872.]
HOMEWARD BOUND.
655 •
fond of shooting. I should like to shoot an African
elephant."
" Oh, Livingstone doesn't want you. He says he has
plenty of stores — enough to enable him to finish up
comfortably ; and I am sure he ought to know best.
If he lacked anything, he would have mentioned it in
the list. Any more than he has got would be an
incumbrance — he could not get the men to carry them.
What have you got here ?"
"Oh," said he, with a light laugh, "we have the
store-room full of cloth and beads. We have over one
hundred and ninety loads of stores."
" One hundred and ninety loads !"
« Yes."
"Why, where could you go with all these loads?
There are not enough men on the whole coast to carry
such a quantity. One hundred and ninety loads ! Why,
you would require two hundred and fifty men to carry
them, because you would be obliged to take at least
fifty supernumeraries !"
At this time in walked a tall, slight, young, gentle-
manly man, with light complexion, light hair, dark,
lustrous eyes, who was introduced to me as Mr. Oswald
Livingstone. The introduction was hardly necessary,
for in his features there was much of wliat were the
specialities of his father. There was an air of (^uiet
resolution about him, and in the greeting which lie
gave me he exhibited rather a reticent character ; but
I attributed that to a receptive nature, which augured
well for the future. A greater contrast than these
two young men could hardly have been presented.
One was volatile, redundant, inconsistent, effervescent,
boiling over with his uncontrollable vitality, irrepres-
sibly mercurial, hilarious, and jovial ; the other was
Eow 2 POUND Livingstone.
composed, even to a little sternness, nnruffled in liis
demeanor, demurely staid, with a tranquil, resolute,
and fixed face, but with flashing eyes, that vivified an
otherwise _ immobile expression. Of the two, I should
have said the latter would have been the fittest leader
of an Expedition ; but Henn, if he possessed enduring
qualities — not such as belong to the physical constitu-
tion, but the moral courage to bear with fortitude,
and persevere under constantly recurring calamities,
fevers, privations, and difficulties — was an eligible com-
panion, with his elan, high spirits, and bubbling hilarity.
Livingstone seemed to be able by nature to support
the burden of responsibility ; while Henn, from his
natural vivacity and impulsive disposition, seemed yet
too young for such a charge, though he had acquired
the quality of manhood.
" I was telling Lieut. Henn that, whether he goes or
not, you must go to your father, Mr. Livingstone."
" Oh, I mean to go."
" Yes, that's right. I will furnish you with men and
what stores your father needs. My men will take you
to Unyanyembe without any difficulty. They know the
road well, and that is a great advantage. They know
how to deal with the negro chiefs, and you will have no
need to trouble your head about them, but march. The
^reat thing that is required is speed. Your father will
be waiting for the things."
" I will march them fast enough, if that is all."
" Oh, they will be going up light, and they can easily
make long marches."
It was settled, then. Henn made up his mind that,
as the Doctor had been relieved, he was not wanted ;
but, before formally resigning, he intended to consult
with Dr. Kii'lc, and for that purpose he would cross
May, 1872.]
EOMEWABD BOUND.
657
over to Zanzibar the next day with the ' Herald '
Expedition.
At 2 A.M. I retired to sleep on a comfortable bed.
There was a great smell of newness about certain
articles in the bedroom, such as havresacks, knapsacks,
portmanteaus, leather gun-cases, &c. Evidently the
* new Expedition had some crudities about it ; but a
journey into the interior would soon have lessened the
stock of superfluities, which all new men at first load
themselves with.
Ah ! what a sigh of relief was that I gave, as I threw
myself on my bed, at the thought that, " Thank God !
my marching was ended."
2 U
658
HOW I FO UND LIVimSTONE.
CHAPTER XVII.
VALEDICTORY.
At 5 P.M., on the 7tli of May, 1872, the dhow which
conveyed my Expedition buck to Zanzibar arrived in
the harbor, and the men, delighted to find them-
selves once more so near their homes, fired volley after
volley, the American flag was hoisted up, and we soon
saw the house-roofs and wharves lined with spectators,
many of whom were Europeans, with glasses levelled
at us.
"We drew ashore slowly ; but a boat putting off to
take us to land, we stepped into it, and I was soon in
presence of my friend the Consul, who heartily wel-
comed me back to Zanzibar ; and soon after was intro-
duced to the Rev. Charles New, who was but a day or
two previous to my arrival an important member of
the English Search Expedition — a small, slight man
in appearance, who, though he looked weakly, had a
Mat, 1872.]
VALEDICTORY.
659
fund of energy or nervousness in him whicli was
almost too great for such a body. He also heartily
congratulated me.
After a bounteous dinner, to which I did justice in a
manner that astonished my new friends, Lieut. Dawson
called to see me — a stalwart young man, splendid
figure, handsome appearance, with quick and intelligent
features, and said :
" Mr. Stanley, let me congratulate you, sir."
Lieut. Dawson then went on to state how he envied
me my success ; how-1 had taken tiie wind out of his
sails " (a nautical phrase, similar to that used by Lieut.
Henn) ; how, when he heard from my men that Dr.
Livingstone had been found, he at once crossed over
from Bagamoyo to Zanzibar, and, after a short talk
with Dr. Kirk, at once resigned.
" But do you not think, Mr. Dawson, you have been
rather too hasty in tendering your resignation, from the
mere verbal report of my men ?"
" Perhaps," said he ; " but I heard that Mr. Webb
had received a letter from you, and that you and
Livingstone had discovered that the Rusizi ran into the
lake — that you had the Doctor's letters and despatches
with you."
" Yes ; but you acquired all this information from
my men ; you have seen nothing yourself. You have
therefore resigned before you had personal evidence of
the fact,"
"Well, Dr. Livingstone is relieved and found, as Mr.
Henn tells me, is he not ?"
" Yes, that is true enough. He is well supplied ; he
only requires a few little luxuries, which I am going to
send him by an expedition of fifty freemen. Dr. Living-
stone is found and relieved, most certainly ; and I have
660
EOW I FOUND* LIVINGSTONE.
all the letters and despatches which he could possibly
send to his friends."
" But don't you think I did perfectly right ?"
" Hardly — though, perhaps, it would come to the same
thing in the end. Any more cloth and beads than he
has already would be an incumbrance. Still, you have
your orders from the Royal Geographical Society. I
have not seen those yet, and I am not prepared to
judge what your best course would have been. But I
think you did wrong in resigning before you saw me ; for
then you would have had, probably, a legitimate excuse
for resigning. I should have held on to the expedition
until I had consulted with those who sent me ; though,
in such an event as this, the order would be, perhaps, to
* Come home.' "
" As it has turned out, though, don't you think I did
right ?"
" Most certainly it would be useless for you to go to
search for and reheve Livingstone now, because he has
already been sought, found, and relieved ; but perhaps
you had other orders."
" Only, if I went into the country, I was then to
direct my attention to exploration ; but, the primary
object having been forestalled by you, I am compelled
to return home. The Admiralty granted me leave of
absence only for the search, and never said anything
about exploration."
" In your orders, which you say you have, is there
nothing said as to what you were to do in the event of
your meeting me ?"
" Not a word, though they knew it well ; for one of
the members of tlie Royal Geographical Society sug-
gested to me privately that I might possibly be able to
relieve you. I knew nothing about your expedition
May, 1872.]
VALEDICTORY.
661
except from your letter to the ' Herald ;' but we had
been informed that you were sick from fever, and pro-
bably dead. When I arrived here I heard much about
you, and we heard a report that you had found Living-
stone the very day we came here ; but we did not pay
much attention to it. It was not until I talked with
your own men that I came to the conclusion that I was
not wanted, and therefore resigned."
" Why did they not mention my name in the instruc-
tions ? They knew, according to what you say, that
I was in the country ; and, no matter ho"vv poor a
traveller I may have been, it was a contingency that
might arise."
"The truth is, they didn't want you to find him.
You cannot imagine how jealous they are at home
about this Expedition of yours."
" Not find Livingstone ! What does it matter to
them who finds and helps him, so long as he is found
and relieved ?"
This was the first shock I received, and from this
moment I regarded myself as a doomed man with the
English people. That anyone should have been so
inhuman as to desire my failure, because it was an
American Expedition, was the remotest idea that I
could have entertained. Until this moment I had never
given a thought as to how people would regard my
success or failure. I had been too busily employed in
my work even to think of such wild and improbable
things, as that any people would rather hope that Dr.
Livingstone would be irrecoverably lost than that an
American journalist should find him.
But I was not long at Zanzibar before I was tho-
roughly aware of the animus that prevailed in England
I was shown clippings from newspapers, wherein several
C62
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
members of the Royal Geographical Society had ridi-
culed the American Expedition ; and one member had
even gone so far as to say that it required the "steel
head of an Englishman " to penetrate Africa. Dr. Kirk
had written in a kindly spirit, and had stated that his
" sole reliance was in me ;" for which I felt grateful,
and regretted that I was the bearer of a formal letter
to him from Dr. Livingstone.
That evening I despatched a boy over to the English
Consulate with letters from the great traveller for Dr.
Kirk and Mr. Oswald Livingstone.
I was greeted warmly by the American and German
residents, who could not have shown warmer feeling
than if Dr. Livingstone had been a near and dear
relation of their own. Capt. H. A. Eraser and Dr.
James Christie were also loud in their praises. It seems
that both of these gentlemen had attempted to despatch
a private exipedition to the relief of their countryman,
but througJi some means it had failed. They had contri-
buted the sum of $500 to effect this laudable object ;
but the man to whom they had entrusted its command
had been engaged by another for a different purpose, at
a higher sum. But, instead of feeling annoyed that I had
performed what they had intended to do, they were
among my most enthusiastic admirers.
The next day I received a call from Dr. Kirk, who
warmly congratulated me upon my success. He
never alluded in any way to the contents of the letter
received from Dr. Livingstone. Bishop Tozer also came,
and thanked me for the service I had rendered to Dr.
Livingstone.
On this day I also discharged my men, and re-engaged
twenty of them to return to the " Great Master." Bom-
bay, though in the interior he had scorned the idea of
Mat, 1872.]
VADEDICTORT.
663
money rewards, and though he had systematieally, in
my greatest need, endeavoured to baffle me in every
way, received, besides his pay, a present of $50, and
each man, according to his merits, from $20 to $50.
For this was a day to bury all animosities, and condone
all offences. They, poor people, had only acted accord-
ing to their nature, and I remembered that from Ujiji
to the coast they had all behaved admirably.
I saw I was terribly emaciated and changed when I
presented myself before a full-length mirror. All con-
firmed my opinion that I was much older in my
appearance, and that my hair had become grey. Capt.
Fraser had said, when I hailed him, " You have the
advantage of me, sir !" and until I mentioned my name
he did not know me. Even then he jocosely remarked
that he believed that it was another Tichborne affair.
I was so different that identity was almost lost, even
during the short period of thirteen months ; that is, from
March 23rd, isTl, to May 7th, 1872.
Lieut. Henn came to me also on the morning after
my arrival, and requested permission to see the order
which I received from Dr. Livingstone, which was
granted. I append a copy of the order :
" Untantembe, 14th March, 1872.
" I have been subjected to so much loss by the
employment of slaves in caravans sent to me by H.M.
Consul, that, if Mr. Stanley meets another party of the
sort, I beg of him to turn them back, but use his discre-
tion in the whole matter.
" David Livixqstone."
" This does not refer to our expedition at all," said
Lieut. Henn.
«
664 now 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
*' Of course not," I replied ; " it refers to slave cara-
vans. With your expedition I have nothing whatever
to do ; you are perfectly free to go, so far as I am
concerned. But, if you recollect, you asked me last
night li Dr. Livingstone was relieved. I answer you
again that he was, and here are the things " (showing
him the Doctor's list) " that he says he wants. If you
think that you ought to go to him, I would advise you
to go. Anyhow, I should advise you not to sell the
goods, which I hear you intend doing, until you hear
from the Eoyal Greographical Society. They may have
other views for you, since you have gone to such a vast
expense in preparing the expedition."
" Oh, I shall resign, and turn the whole thing over
to young Livingstone."
" You please yourself. You know your own business
best."
" I know what I will do. I shall go with Capt.
Fraser to Kilima-Njaro, and have some good shooting
there. New tells me that there's lots of game in that
country."
Lieut. Henn went direct from the American Con-
sulate and formally resigned, and the expedition was
from this time in the hands of Mr. Oswald Livingstone,
who made up his mind to sell the stores, retaining
such as would be Useful to his father. But, before he
sold them, I advised Dr. Kirk that it would be best to
store them, because the Eoyal Geographical Society
might wish something to be done in the way of explo-
ration.
" No," said Dr. Kirk, " these goods belong to Dr.
Livingstone, and, as he does not need them, they can
be converted into money for him withou^ much loss."
From tlie Rev. Charles New, a resident missionary
May, 1872 ]
VALEDICTORY.
665
on the East Coast of Africa, a few miles west of Mom-
basah, I obtained a great many particulars respecting the
collapse of the English expedition. Though he ver-
bally communicated his remarks, he subsequently em-
bodied them in the shape of a letter to me. I extract
such paragraphs as bear on the matter :
After a long residence in East Africa I was returning to England,
when, at Zanzibar, I met with the English expedition party. Quite
unexpectedly, and at the instance of the Council of the Royal
Geographical Society, I was asked to join the expedition. After a
great deal of consideration, and some hesitation, I did so, accepting
the position of interpreter and third in command. My agreement,
drawn up by Lieut. Dawson, ran as follows : —
" I agree to give my gratuitous services in, and to join, the
Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, as originally organized
in England by the Royal Geographical Society, on the following
understanding —
" 1st. Should accident incapacitate Lieut. Dawson from continuing
the command, I agree to consider Lieut. William Henn the commander
of the expedition, and to act under him as such.
" 2nd. Should Lieut. William Henn be also incapacitated, I agree
to take command, and use my best endeavours to carry out the objects
of the expedition as laid down in tho instructions of the Royal
Geographical Society."
That was the agreement I signed. Having joined tho expedition,
I did my utmost to push forward its preparations till all was ready
and wo were to start. Lieut. Dawson, Lieut. Ilenn, and myself
crossed the Channel to Bagamoyo, with the goods and guard, with the
view of engaging wa-pagazi forthwith, and starting without delay.
On our arrival at Eagamoyo we met three men who had arrived two
or three days before us, and who were said to have come domi from
tho interior from you. Wo examined them, learning from them
that you had met Dr. Livingstone at Ujiji ; that you and tho Doctor
had gone together to the north end of tho lake ; had seen tho river
Eusizi running into tho lake ; that you had then returned to Ujiji,
and had thenco pushed your way eastward as far as Unyanyombo ;
that there Dr. Livingstone remained with tho view of prosecuting
further researches, but that you were returning with all speed to tho
coast; that you had already reached Ugogo, and might bo cxi>ected in
Bagamoyo in two or three days' time.
666
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Dawson and Henn then expressed their intention of throwing up
the expedition, and of retnrniifg to England, on the ground that you
had done the work they had come to Africa to do. But that evening
Lieut. Dawson asked me, if, provided it were deemed necessary to
send on relief to Dr. Livingstone, I should be willing to take it on.
I expressed my readiness to consider such a proposal. Next day
Lieut. Dawson returned to Zanzibar to consult with Dr. Kirk. Two
days after I received a letter each from Dr. Kirk and Lieut. Dawson.
Both offered to place the Relief Expedition in my hands ; Mr. Oswald
Livingstone cousenting to act under my own guidance, he being
anxious still to go on to his father. I WTote to Dr. Kirk, expressing
my readiness to take charge of the Relief Expedition. But, in the
meantime, Lieut. Henn had changed his mind, and he now insisted
upon assuming the command. 1 was obliged to retire in his favour. It
was hoped, however, that I would act under Lieiit. Henn as second in
command ; and, had it been needful, or even possible, I would have
done so.
But the expedition was no longer what it had been as originally
organized in England : it was become a comparatively iusiguificant
trip to Unyanyembe, which any two men, with an ordinary amount of
real interest in it, and a fair share of pluck and perseverance, might
have accomplished. That is most certainly the view I took of the
matter. I tliei-cfore retired, on the ground that my services were no
longer necq,ssary, and that my presence would only complicate a very
easy task. It is generally thought that I had signed an agreement
to act under Lieut. Henn under auy circumstances. This is not the
case. My agreement was with the expedition as origUialhj organized in
England, and to serve under Lieut. Henn, provided Lieut. Dawson
were incapaT^tated through acccidenf. But Lieut. Dawson was not in-
capacitated through accident. Ho resigned ; and his resignation, as
originally organized, upset, as Dr. Kirk said in his letter to me, all
previous arrangements, and upon this ground the expedition waa
offered to me. After Lieut. Dawson's withdrawal new arrangements
had to be made, and each individual was at liberty to go on or
retire as he pleased.
But I had other reasons for not accepting a second place in such an .
expedition, under Lieut. Henn. In my opinion ho was unfit, and in-
capable of conducting such an expedition. At starting he had
declared that his (main object) was for sport — to try his hand at
shooting buffaloes and elephants. Now such a man, in my opinion,
was not the man to send to the relief of Dr. Livingstone, and I do not
think I ought to have been asked to act second to him ; though, had
the original expedition stood, I would have gone forward nt all risks.
Mat, 1872.]
VALEDICTORY.
667
Another point : Lieut. Henn had threatened to retire from the
expedition before we heard anything of your return ; tlius exhibiting
an instability which augured the worst things in regard to his success
as commander. Learning that Lieut. Henn had threatened to retire,
I called upon Dr. Kirk expressly to talk with that gentleman about
the matter. I pointed out to Dr. Kirk that this state of things
seriously* involved the success of the expeflition, and suggested that
the party be called together, in order to bring about a better under-
standing between Lieut. Dawson and Lieut. Henn. Dr. Kirk said,
" No ; do nothing of the kind. Henn will go with you two or three
days into the coimtry, and then quietly retire."
"We will stop here. I have done a friendly part bj
Mr. New, as I have a high idea of his capabilities for
his high and noble vocation ; and I am sure he will
pardon me if I point out, in a friendly, critical way, his
own little faults. The reader may gather from the
above letter that affairs stood on no amiable footing
between Messrs. Dawson, Henn, and New. Indeed,
from what was current at Zanzibar, a stranger would
have imagined that the three gentlemen • were at
daggers drawn towards one another ; but this was only
apparent and superficial— there was no deep hostility.
It was rather early in the day for a real quarrel to
have taken place. "While they were all united under
one absolute and firm leader, trivial antipathies slum-
bered and were passive ; but, as soon as the leader —
Lieut. Dawson — retired, a little jealousy appeared, which
was provoked into activity by the question which Dawson
^ asked New, ""Whether, in the event of relief being neces-
sary, he would be willing to hike command?" Mr. New
wished to deliberate upon it ; but we must also remem-
ber that Mr. Henn desired to do the same thing, as it
was but a verbal and thoughtless expression he used
when he said he would "throw up" the expedition: he
had not arrived at any final conclusion. After two days'
668
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
deliberation, Mr. New declared his " readiness to accept
the command ;" but, just at this juncture, Mr. Henn
expressed his determination to proceed with the relief
party ; and, as he was second in command, he had the
option to dispose of that right as he pleased, and the
several parties conceded it to him, as they were bound
by contract to do so. Mr. New, however — according to
his own statement — resigned, and pleaded as an excuse
that the " expedition was no longer what it had been
but Mr. New is inclined to be inconsistent when he
states its constitution was altered. It is true that the
former chief had retired ; but, according to his own
version, he had pledged himself to obey Lieut. Henn —
if Lieut. Dawson was incapacitated by accident. The
" accident " — nothing less than my appearance — did
occur, and Lieut. Dawson incapacitated himself by a
voluntary resignation, by voluntarily depriving himself
of the power to command ; therefore, Lieut. Henn had
the right to command, and Mr. Charles New was bound
to obey him. " Should accident incapacitate Lieut.
Dawson from continuing the command, I agree to
consider Lieut. "William Henn the commander of the
expedition, and to act under him as such." In this
agreement there is no mention of original organization.
Mr. New further adds, that it had become a " com-
paratively insignificaiit trip to Unyanyembe, which
any two men, with an ordinary amount of real interest
in it, and a fair share of plnck and perseverance, might ,
have accomplished." I agree with him there ; and not
only two, but one could have gone ; and accomplished
the designs of the expedition far better tlian two
quarrelsome men. About its comparative insignificance
I differ with him. I should say it was far more difficult
for an inexperienced party to take a caravan to
Mat, 1872.]
VALEDICTORT.
669
Unyanyembe, than for an experienced party to lead
one from Unyanyembe beyond. By the time the party
arrived at Unyanyembe, it would have been educated
in the school of experience, and the after journey would
be as nothing compared to the first essay in a new field.
At least, I found it so. I had more trouble in going to
Unyanyembe with my caravans than I had in all the
other journeys together. The experience I had ac-
quired in marching the first half enabled me to accom-
plish the other journeys with ease and rapidity. If the
experience of Mr. Charles New, as an African traveller,
was worth anything, or was even going to be of value
to a raw party, it was from the coast to Unyanyembe,
and not from Unyanyembe beyond.
After reaching Unyanyembe, I should say that
Lieut. Henn and Mr. Livingstone would have been
perfectly competent to take the caravan anywhere,
without Mr. New; the lessons they had acquired on
the march would have enabled them to utterly ignore
him. No ; I should say if Mr. New, " after a little
hesitation," agreed to join the party when a man like
Dawson had charge of it, in order to give it the benefit
of his experience, and if, after Dawson retired, he con-
sidered Henn incapable, in the opinion of all right-
minded men he was more than ever bound to sustain
both Henn and Livingstone with his experience, until
he had taught them how to travel without him ; then
Mr. New might have retired, had he wished it, with
grace and credit to himself.
Though Henn's main object might be to shoot buffalo
and elephant, it does not absolve Mr. New from his
duty of accompanying, advising, and encouraging him
in his loyalty — when all sport failed — to the real and
principal object of the expedition, to which they had
670 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
one and all pledged their support. Lieut. Henn might
have been of an unstable and mercurial disposition by
nature ; but he proved himself to be more consistent —
even though his object were sport — in proceeding for
the second time to Bagamoyo, than Mr. New, who,
when he returned from Bagamoyo, never returned to
his duty, but resigned his position, then proffered his
aid, and again withdrew it ; and all because he was
offered the command when Henn had not quite decided
to go, and because, when he did decide to go, the com-
mand was given to him as a right to which ho was
fairly entitled, and not to the Rev. Charles New.
It was Mr. New's duty to have gone on under Henn,
as he had pledged himself to do ; then, if Henn
should have verified the prediction of Dr. Ku'k, he
could have stepped with honor and credit to himself
into the command which he seems, by his own account,
to have so much coveted.
Though Mr. New does not appear in an enviable
light in this act of the little comedy of " How not to
do it," in the first act he shines as something heroic,
and I feel myself admiring him intensely, as a true,
earnest, and brave-hearted man. After a nine years'
residence in Africa, he meets^ on the eve of departure
for England, whither he proposes to go for the invi-
goration of his enfeebled frame, with a request to
accompany the English Search Expedition as inter-
preter ; and after a little hesitation only, he gives his
utmost aid, and pledges himself to do the best in his
power for the furtherance of the charitable mission on
which the little knot of Englishmen are bound. Until
he hears from my men that Livingstone is found and
relieved, he devotes himself to his task with all the
energy of his nature ; sails from Zanzibar to Mombasah,
Mat, 1872.]
VALEDICTORY.
671
and presently returns with twenty soldiers, as guard
for the expedition ; and through his loyalty and devo-
tion to his w^ork wins all hearts. Mr. New has left a
very good impression in Zanzibar among the European
residents, and their unanimous belief is that, if I had
not come so soon to the coast, he would have carried
the large and costly expedition through in fine order.
I have no hesitation in saying that he was perfectly
qualified for his work, from his energetic nature and
long experience.
£ut the great fault of the organization was the
attempt to assimilate so many uncongenial characters
into one harmonious unity. Not one member had the
least affinity of character with the other. One was
ambitious, positive, hasty, and inclined to be aggres-
sive ; another was mercurial, impulsive, inconsistent by
nature ; another was nervous, energetic, religious, and
too candid ; the other was reticent, earnest, and deter-
mined. New and Livingstone would have succeeded
admirably. Dawson, by himself, would have been
better than with anybody else. Henn, charged wnth
tlfe sole command, would have honorably performed
his duty, for pluck and honor w'ere the two principal
ingredients of his character. As a body, uniform
and harmonious, the elements of cohesion were wanting
in three of them ; while one would have joined neither
party, but remained a neutral witness to factions. Had
they gone the party must have quarrelled ; and it
would have been a worse disgrace than not going at all.
It was therefore fortunate for the credit of Englishmen
that my arrival saved their expedition from collapsing
and being wrecked in the interior.
Few opportunities present themselves at Zanzibar
for departure from the island. II. M.S. ' Magpie ' liad
672
SOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
departed the very next morning after my arrival for a
cruise, and we found afterwards that she had gpoken
the * "Wolverine ' at sea, as was her intention, and had
transmitted letters and despatches by that war-vessel
to Seychelles and England. If it be true, as reported
to me, that an English man-of-war would not have
stayed an hour, even, for Dr. Livingstone, I have no
right to feel aggrieved that she did not wait for me to
send even a, small despatch by her about Livingstone ;
but at the same time I thought it strange, if a captain
of a man-of-war could steam his vessel to Bagamoyo
for a hunting party, that another captain could not stay
even a few minutes, to take a letter announcing the
safety of Livingstone.
I was told on the authority of an English clergyman
that even if Dr, Livingstone himself had appeared at
Zanzibar, a British cruiser could not be detained an
hour beyond time to convey him away ; but I can
hardly suppose that the necessary discipline of a
British man-of-war would not, in such an exceptional
case, have been relaxed.
After disbanding my Expedition I set about preparing
another, according to Dr. Livingstone's request. What
the English expedition lacked I purchased out of the
money advanced by Mr. Oswald Livingstone. The
guns, fifty in number, were also furnished out of the
stores of the English expedition by him ; and so were
the ammunition, the honga cloth, for the tribute to the
"Wagogo, and the cloth for provisioning the force. Mr.
Livingstone worked hard in the interests of his father,
and assisted me to the utmost of his ability. He delivered
over to me, to be packed up, 'Nautical Almanacs'
for 1872, 1873, 1874; also a chronometer, which was
m the charge of Dr. Kirk, and which formerly belonged
s
May, 1872.] VALEDICTOBT. • 673
to Dr. Livingstone. All these things, besides a journal,
envelopes, note-books, writing-paper, medicines, canned
fruits and fish, a little wine, some tea, cutlery and table
ware, newspapers, and private letters and despatches,
were packed up in air-tight boxes of tin, as well as
100 lbs. of fine American flour, and some boxes of soda
biscuits.
Until the 19th of May it was understood that Mr.
Oswald Livingstone would take charge of the caravan
to his father ; but about this date he changed his mind,
and surprised me with a note stating he had decided
not to go to Unyanyembe, for reasons he thought just
and sufficient. I ventured to suggest that it was his
duty to go, since he had come so far as Zanzibar ; but
it was evident he acted as he thought best ; and, taking
» into consideration the fact that Dr. Kirk advised him
not to injure his health, and waste his studies, when
there was no absolute necessity of his personal super-
intendence of the caravan, I think he acted quite right
in resigning. Dr. Kirk was his father's friend, his
father's former companion on the Zambezi; and as
young Mr. Livingstone had abundant fiiith and con-
fidence in his judgment, more than he had in his own,
it was but natural that he should adopt the advice of
his father's friend.
Under these circumstances, ray duty was to follow
out the instructions of Dr. Livingstone, in procuring a
good and efficient leader — an Arab — for leading the
expedition to Unyanyembe ; and with this view I
wrote a letter to Dr. Kirk, requesting his influence with
the Sultan. The reply I received from Dr. Kirk reads
thus :
2 X
674
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
" British Agency, Zanzibar, 20tli May, 1872.
" My dear Sir,
" Dr. Livingstone's own letter to Seyd Burghash
has been long ago transmitted and explained to him,
but I then mentioned that you no longer thought of
troubling him for the responsible head man described.
Under the altered circumstances, Mr. W. 0. Livingstone
having abandoned the idea of following his father, I
shall be only too glad to aid you with the Sultan, and
shall, if you desire, at once send, and tell him to pick
out the proper man, whom you will, of course, review,
and reject or approve, as you think best.
" Very truly yours,
(Signed) " John Kirk."
The application of Dr. Kirk to the Sultan for a man
was imsuccessful, so he subsequently informed me ; and,
upon receiving this information, I set about looking for
a leader in another direction, and in a few hours suc-
ceeded in obtaining one highly recommended from
Sheikh Hashid, whom I engaged at an advance of $100.
The young Arab, though not remarkably bright, seemed
honest and able, but I left his further employment after
reaching Unyanyembe to Dr. Livingstone, who would
be able to decide then whether he was quite trust-
worthy.
On the 25th, Lieut. Dawson, after engaging passage
in the American barque, ' Mary A. Way,' Capt, Russell,
for New York, sailed on that day. I supplied him
with a letter of introduction to a friend of mine in New
York. We parted on terms of the utmost amity and
goodwill, as I regarded him as a most chivalrous
gentleman.
On the morning of the 26th, Dr. Kirk called at the
Mat, 1872.]
VALEDICTORY.
675
American Consulate to visit his friend, Mr. Webb, and
while in the house I took the opportunity of saying to
him, " Doctor, I fear I will not be able to despatch the
expedition to Dr. Livingstone so early as I hoped. If
the steamer which Mr. Henn, Mr. Livingstone, and
myself have chartered is obliged to sail before I can
embark the expedition, I shall have to ask you to take
charge of it."
To which Dr. Kirk replied, " If you do, I shall have
to decline it. I am not going to expose myself
to needless insult again.* I am not going to do any-
thing more for Dr. Livingstone in a private capacity.
Officially I will, as I would for any other British
subject."
" Needless insult, did you say, Dr. Kirk ?" I asked.
« Yes."
" May I ask what it consists of ?"
" He blames me for the failure of the caravans to.
reach him, and charges me with having employed
slaves. If the men did not reach him, how can I
help it T
" Pardon me. Dr. Kirk, but if you were in
Dr. Livingstone's place, you would have done so
yourself. Your best friend would have been suspected
of coldness — to say nothing else — ^had you been told,
time after time, by leaders of caravans, that they had
been commanded by the Consul to bring you back, and
on no account to go with you anywhere."
" But he could see by the contracts that they had
been engaged to follow him wherever he chose. If he
prefers to believe negroes, and half-castes, and doubt
* Readers interested in this subject may bo curious to know wliat
this insult was. It refers to Dr. Livingstouo's letter to Dr. Eirk.
dated Ujiji, Oct. 30, 1871.— See Appendix.
676
now I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
mf word and official comraunications, he is a fool ; that
is all I have got to say."
" Mj dear sir, how can Dr. Livingstone help doubting
the contract ? Do not all the men swear to him that
yoti have commanded them to bring him back ? All
his entreaties are of no avail, and the whole ends by
them forcing him back from his discoveries. What
was he to do, but believe that there was something
inexplicable in it ? All through the interior he has
heard the same tale over and over again, that you have
sent a letter to him, ordering him to come back."
" I cannot help it. I have written him a letter just
as good as he sent me."
" Well," said I, " it won't do for me to leave the
caravan in Zanzibar. I must send it off myself, then."
The next day I collected the men together, and as it
was dangerous to allow them to wander about the city,
I locked them up in a courtyard, and fed them there,
until every soul, fifty-seven in number, answered to
their names.
In the meantime, through the American Consul's
assistance, I obtained the services of Johari, the chief
dragoman of the American Consulate, who was charged
with the conduct of the party across the inundated
plain of the Kingani, and who was enjoined on no
account to return until the expedition had started on
its march from the western bank of the Kingani Iliver.
Mr. Oswald Livingstone generously paid him a douceur
for the promise of doing liis work thoroughly.
A dhow having been brought to anchor before the
American Consulate, I then addressed' my old com-
panions, saying, " You are now about to return to
Unyanyembe, to tlie 'Great Master.' You know hi in ;
you know he is a good man, and has a kind heart. He
May, 1872.]
YAJjEDICTOET.
677
is different from me ; he will not beat you, as I have done.
But you know I have rewarded you all — how I have
made you all rich in cloth and money. You know how,
when you behaved yourselves well, I was your friend.
I gave you plenty to eat and plenty to wear. When
you were sick I looked after you. If I was so good to
you, the Great Master will be much more so. He has a
pleasant voice, and speaks kind. When did you ever
see him lift his hand against an offender ? When you
were wicked, he did not speak to you in anger — he
spoke to you in tones of sorrow. Now, will you
promise me that you will follow him — do what he tells
you, obey him in all things, and not desert him ?"
" We will, we will, my master !" they all crie'd,
fervently.
"Then there is one thing more. I want to shake
hands with you all before you go — and we part for
ever ;" and they all rushed up at once, and a vigorous
shake was interchanged with each man.
" Now, let every man take up his load !"
In a short time I marched them out into the street,
and to the beach ; saw them all on board, and the
canvas hoisted, and the dhow speeding westward on
her way to Bagamoyo.
I felt strange and lonely, somehow. My dark
friends, who had travelled over so many hundreds of'
miles, and shared so many dangers with me, were gone,
and I — ^was left behind. How many of their friendly
faces shall I see again ?
On the 2nth, the steamer ' Africa,' belonging to the
German Consulate, chartered by Messrs. Henn, Living-
stone, New, Morgan, and myself, departed from
Zanzibar for Seychelles, with the good wishes of almost
all the European residents on the island.
678 EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
On our voyage eastward, we sighted the 'Mary
A. Way,' in which poor Dawson had taken passage. It
was a matter of wonder to us that Dawson should have
sailed for England by such a roundabout way. But
after arriving in England, I saw a letter sent by him
to the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society,
wherein he says : —
"I should have proceeded by the same route; but,
though I do not grudge Mr. Stanley his well-earned
success, it would be distasteful to me, if not to both of
us, to travel in company ; and opportunities are but
few from Zanzibar to Europe."
I cannot imagine the spirit in which this letter is
dictated. It differs very much from the frank, generous
nature I took him to have. I can understand, however,
that it would be distasteful to him to sail with me, if
any one were guilty of ungenerous and invidious com-
parisons ; but why it should be distasteful to me, I
cannot conceive.
We arrived at Seychelles on the 9th of June, about
twelve hours after the French mail had departed for
Aden. As there is only monthly communication
between Mahe (Seychelles) and Aden, we were com-
pelled to remain on the island of Mahe one month.
Messrs. Livingstone, New, Morgan, and myself, hired
a nice little wooden house, which we called the
' Livingstone Cottage," while Mr. Henn resorted to
an hotel.
My life in Mahe is among the most agreeable things
cuiiuected with my return from Africa. I found my
companions estimable gentlemen, and true Christians.
Ml'. Livingstone exhibited many amiable traits of
character, and proved himself to be a studious,
thoughtful, earnest man. When at last the French
May, 1372.]
VALEDICTORY.
679
steamer came from Mauritius, there was not one of our
party who did not regret leaving the beautiful island,
and the hospitable British officers who were stationed
there. Tlie Civil Commissioner, Mr. Hales Franklyn,
and Dr. Brooks, did their utmost to welcome the
wanderer, and I take this opportunity to acknowledge
the many civilities I personally received from them.
At Aden, the passengers from the south were
transferred on board the French mail steamer, the
' Mei-kong,' en route from China to Marseilles. At
the latter port I was received with open arms by
Dr. Hosmer and the representative of the * Daily
Telegraph ;' and was then told how men regarded the
results of the Expedition ; but it was not until I arrived
in England that I realized it.
Mr. Bennett, who originated and sustained the
enterprise, now crowned it by one of the most generous
acts that could be conceived. I had promised Dr.
Livingstone, that twenty-four hours after I saw his
letters published in the London journals, I would post
his letters to his family and friends in England. In
order to permit me to keep my plighted word, his
agent telegraphed the two letters I received from him,
by cable, at an expense of nearly £2,000.
ih * * * *
A few more words, and I shall conclude, my dear
reader. It were, perhaps, more dignified in me if I
halted here, and wrote finis to this record of Travels,
Adventures, and Discoveries ; but there are some
things which I cannot pass by in silence, and amongst
them is, the treatment I have received in England.
The English Press seemed to have been laboring,
before I arrived in England, under a tissue of errors.
680
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
Hardly an African word was correct — dates were all
wrong — facts were distorted m the most incompre-
hensible manner; and these seemed to give rise to
doubts and suspicions. Except a letter from Unya-
nyembe, despatches on my return to Zanzibar, and my
letters at Marseilles, I repudiate all else. What I
have written only will I father. What is published in
the ' New York Herald,' as my letters and despatches, I
assert to be correct— except where typographical errors
have crept in, which- were natural, owing to the
strangeness of the names, and, perhaps, to my own
handwriting ; which, when a man is suffering from
fever, is not likely to be very perspicuous or neat.
But it is an astounding fact, that English editors felt
jealous that it had been left to an American corre-
spondent to discover Dr. Livingstone. Almost all the
English journals expressed their views upon this point
in unmistakable terms, though the principal and most
respectable did not hesitate at the same time to give
me a large meed of praise — I refer to the * Times,' the
' Daily Telegraph,' the ' Daily News,' and ' Morning
Post.'*"
Gentlemen editors, though I thank you for your
compliments to a journalist, yet young, and in no
way distinguished, in his own humble opinion, I must
say, frankly, you have no right "to feel jealous of me, or
of any one else. I am only a Special Correspondent, at
the beck ahd call of the journal which I have the honor
to serve. I was bound by my engagements with it to
proceed to any quarter of the globe whenever the order
came. I sought not the distinction of searching after
Livingstone. When I received the call I was compelled
to obey, or to resign. I preferred to obey rather than
to resign. If you have read this book, you will know
VALEDICTORY.
681
what became of the mission with which- 1 was entrusted ;
how it began, and how it ended.
Neither have you a right, gentlemen, to feel jealous
of the gentleman who employed me. Africa was as
much open to you as it was to him. Americans felt^ as
great an interest in Dr. Livingstone as Englishmen did.
As many Americans had read his books as English-
men had done. Prompted by the desire to satisfy
the craving which Americans felt in regard to the
safety of Dr. Livingstone, he conceived the idea of
despatching a " Special " into Central Africa to search
for him. He had abundant means, and had the will.
If one Special had refused the errand, another had
accepted it; there were enough of them at his com-
mand. Had each of the permanent employe's on his
journal refused the task, a volunteer frOm the intelligent
masses had easily been found, and the results, through
God's good pleasure, would have been the same as they
are now — probably better. Had any of you thought of
accomplishing the task, and willed that it should be
accomplished, a thousand Englishmen had volunteered
for it at once, and the same results would have been
obtained — perhaps better. You have all distinguished
yourselves. The ' Times,' in the Crimea, in the Lidian
Mutiny, and in politics ; its title is well known in every
part of the globe. The ' Daily Telegraph ' has distin-
guished itself also in a hundred instances, and so has the
* Daily News.' If the ' New York Herald ' desired to carry
the enterprise of the Press into the heart of Africa, into
the domain of fable and mystery, who will gainsay it ?
If it can afford the cost, why should other journals
murmur ? It is simply a question of money, which is the
sinew of all enterprises. "With a suflicient supply of it
all Africa can be explored easily. Not only explored,
682
HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
but conquered and civilized. Not only civilized, but
intersected by railroads from one end to the other,
through and through. Why, then, be jealous ? The
whole world is as open to you as to the ' New York
Herald.'
Where is the greatness of the deed ? The traveller
whom I sought was not lost. He vvas alive. Had he
been dead, and his papers scattered among the tribes,
and I had recovered every scrap of paper and every
item of his discoveries, as well as his bones, and
delivered them to whom they were of value — that had
been great. What I had the good fortune to accom-
plish was not so great as it was meritorious. I found
him ailing, and destitute ; by my mere presence I cheered
him — with my goods I relieved him.
Is the fact that I cheered and relieved him a source
of annoyance to yftu ? Ah, gentlemen, would you not
have rendered to him this needful service in like
manner ? If you witnessed a child fall into the gutter,
would you not stretch forth a hand to lift him up ? If
you witnessed honest penury, would you not give
the wherewithal to relieve it ? If you were in presence %
of weakness, would you not assist it with a portion
of your strength ? If you saw suffering, would you
not endeavor to alleviate it ?
Well, then, how did you reward me for doing what
you would have done yourselves in a like case ? Some
of you first doubted the truth of my narrative; then
suspected that the letters I produced as coming from
him were forgeries ; then accused me of sensation-
alism ; then quibbled at the facts I published, and
snarled at me as if I had committed a crime. With a
simple tale — unvarnished, plain, clear, literal truth — you
could find fault 1 What weakness ! What puerility!
VALEDICTOET.
683
But, believe me or not, Editors and Critics, what is
related in this book has transpired even so, to the best
of my knowledge and belief.
But what have you to say for yourselves, gentle-
men geographers ? Think you to slay me with your
unbelief, as you slew James Bruce, Kene Caillie, or
Paul du Chaillu? Think you to wound me with
your unkindness, as you wounded the illustrious
Burton and the gallant Petherick ? You caused the
world to believe that you were anxious about your
great Associate. You wished men to believe, during
the silence that covered him, that you craved to know
what had become of him. Without aid or counsel from
you, the mission to find him was begun, carried through,
and ended, and you were told, " Livingstone is found,
and relieved : your great Associate is alive, and is
about to prosecute his discoveries with greater vigor
than ever." What was your reply ? " There is one
point on which a little eclaircissement is desirable,
because a belief seems to prevail that Mr. Stanley has
discovered and relieved Doctor Livingstone ; whereas,
>* without any disparagement to Mr. Stanley's energ}'-,
activity, and loyalty, if there has been any discovery,
and relief, it is Dr. Livingstone who has discovered and
relieved Mr. Stanley. Dr. Livingstone, indeed, was in
clover, while Mr. Stanley was nearly destitute. It is
only proper that the relative position of the parties
should be correctly stated. We trust that the expedition
sent out by the Society will relieve both Dr. Livingstone
and Mr. Stanley, and enable them to continue the
researches upon which they are engaged."
Gentlemen, mny I ask, why, if you believed Dr.
Livingstone " was in clover," you fceut out au expedition
to relieve him ?
684
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
What did you do wlien I arrived in England, after you
had had the letters from your Associate a week in your
hands ? Let friendly ' Punch ' reply : " The President
of the Royal Geographical Society, who discovered
that Livingstone discovered Stanley, and not Stanley
Livingstone, has at last discovered that Stanley is in,
England. This is not a bad discovery. It seems,
however, to have heen accomplished only after a
severe effort. Mr. Stanley hears, on the 6tli August,
after having been in England for a week, that the
Geographical Society has discovered bim." Let the
' Daily Telegraph ' speak : " A serious and honest
amende is due to Mi;. Stanley from the representatives
of the Royal Geographical Society, for the sake of
which he (Mr. Stanley) has saved the life of the great
traveller, and safely brought us all these precious
documents (letters)." I received a cold letter of thanks
— a week after I arrived in England.
How else did you manifest your feelings after you
heard the good news that your friend was alive ?
Your Vice-President, instructed by your Council, in-
vited me to attend a session of the Geographical Section
of the British Association. I complied with the
request. But, after I read my paper, and defended
Livingstone from rather severe criticisms, your Vice-
President rose, and, in a sweet, smooth, bland voice,
said, " We don't want sensational stories, we want
facts."
What was the sensational story I uttered ? Subsequent
to the reading of my paper on * Diiscoveries at the
Northern Head of Lake Tanganika,' Mr. C. R. Mark-
ham read a paper written by Colonel Grant (the com-
panion of Speke), which was to the effect that Living-
etoue had conceived a most extravagant idea when he
VALEDICTOBY.
685
believed that lie had found the Sources of the Nile
in 11° S.; that ' since he (Grant) had not discovered
traces of gorillas, or cannibals, or of natives eating
pigs, he could not but think that Livingstone had got
much further west than he supposed. Soon after,
Dr. Charles Beke rose to give his opinions upon the
subject, viz., Livingstone's discoveries. Beke was
certain Livingstone had not discovered the Sources
of the Nile. The most important objection to this
theory of the Lualaba being the Nile arose from Dr.
Schweinfurth's explorations. This eminent botanist
had discovered the Uielle, a large river flowing from
east to west, in lat. 3° 45', and it appeared that that
river rose in the Blue ]\Iountains, to the west of
Albert N'Yanza, and completely cut off the basin of
the Nile. Sir Henry Rawlinson, after a complimentary
reference to myself, said that he had strong misgivings
as to whether Livingstone was upon the Nile basin, and
that he believed the Lualaba terminated in some grand
central lake, the discovery of which he sincerely hoped
would crown Livingstone's labors.
Now let us analyse the motives which underlie these
adverse opinions ; we shall then know what value to
place on them. Colonel Grant was the companion of
Speke in his famous march to Gondokoro from Zanzibar,
and he believes implicitly that Speke discovered
the Nile source in tlie river issuing from the Victoria
N'Yanza, and ruianing north-west to a lake, a corner of
which Sir Samuel Baker subsequently discovered. As
a friend of Spoke's, and as his companion during the
expedition, the gallant gentleman dislikes to hear any
other person claiming to have discovered another Nile
source. It is a piece of chivalrous friendship on his
part, I will admit ; but what does Colonel Grant know
683
HOW 1 FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
personally about Speke's source of the Nile ? Let Speke
himself testify : " I arranged that Grant should go to
Kamrasi's direct, with the property, cattle, and women,
taking my letters and a map for immediate despatch to
Pethcrick, at Gani, whilst I should go up the river to
its source or exit from the lake, and come down asrain,
navigating as far back as practicable."
This is evidence to prove that, personally, Grant never
saw the river issuing out of the Victoria N'Yanza. "With
the utmost good faith and blissful innocence he struck off
overland about sixty miles to Kamrasi's, whither he went
like an ordinary messenger to convey Speke's despatches,
and while he is gone Speke discovers the " Ripon Falls,"
and then marches after Grant to Unyoro. The defence of
Speke is chivalry joar excellence ; but it js not geography.
Never was such a costly expedition so barren of results
as this of Speke and Grant. From merely having seen
a southern and' a northern point of some lake, Speke
has sketched a large body of water covering an area of
over 40,000 square miles.
Because Grant saw neither gorillas, nor cannibals, nor
people eating pigs, he fancies that Livingstone has been
much further west than he thought he was. This is absurd,
I myself saw the cannibals of Ubembe and Usansi, and.
heard of the cannibals of Manyueraa from all the Arabs
at Ujiji. Baker heard of cannibals two hundred miles
west of Gondokoro. Burton and Speke saw the can-
nibals of Ubembe. But Livingstone was 4° of longitude
further west than the western shore of the Tanganika.
What becomes now of Grant's objections ? As for tribes
" eating pigs," almost every tribe throughout Africa
eats the flesh of wild boar. I have never heard of tribes
keeping tame pigs ; but Livingstone has seen them, and
there is every good reason to believe that the Manyuema
VALEDICTOliY.
687
are a superior tribe to any we meet east, near the
equator.
Sir Henry Eawlinson, the President of the Eoyal
Greographical Society, is an ardent supporter of the
theory that all fresh-water lakes must have an outlet ;
yet, at the same time, he thinks the great River Lualaba
terminates in a marsh, or a fresh-water lake, which has
no outlet. Is not Sir Henry thus a little inconsistent ?
If all fresh-water lakes must naturally have an effluence,
why should the " great inland lake," which is supposed
to receive the Lualaba, have no effluence ?
Yet, for the defence of Livingstone after this style,
Mr. F. Galton, the President of the Geographical
Section of the British Association, with remarkable
suavity, charged me with being a sensationalist.
Why ? Livingstone started to discover the Ngami,
held on his way dauntlessly, and his efforts were
crowned with its discovery. Francis Galton undertook
to discover the Lake Ngami. How he succeeded, let
his companion, Andersson, relate (Andersson's ' Lake
Ngami,' page 238): "I must confess that on first per-
using my friend's (Galton's) narrative, I was somewhat
startled on coming upon his pleasant assertion that he
did not much care about reaching the Lake Ngami. It
is true that, when landing at Walfisch Bay, we had but
little hope of arriving there ; but at least for my own
part, I had always conceived the great goal of our
journey to be precisely the Ngami." Again, see page
251 : "Galton appeared delighted with the prospect of
soon returning to civilized life. Though he had proved
himself to be capable of enduring hardships and fatigue
as well as any of us, it was evident thart he had iiad
enough of it." Page 240 : " Our failure (Galton and
Andersson's) in not reaching the Lake Ngami deeply
688
nOJV I FOUXD LIVINGSTONE.
mortified me." Page 252: "Not long subsequently
to his return, the Royal Geographical Society, I was
happy to learn, bestowed on him their gold medal, as a
reward for his services in the cause of science."
I cannot close this book without saying one word for
the yomig gentlemen connected with the English
" Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition." I must
confess my utter inability to perceive what just grounds
the Council of the Royal G-eographical Society have to
condemn them for returning. The money which
supplied their outfit and stores was sul scribed by
the British public only for the relief of Dr. David
Livingstone, at a time when they were informed that
my Expedition had failed ; the advertisement which the
Council put in the public journals was with the view of
obtaining volunteer commanders to take the relief up to
Dr. Livingstone. Messrs. Dawson, Henn, and Living-
stone were those who were charged with that duty. At
a meeting of the Society, Lieut. Dawson publicly an-
nounced that, since the eyes of the British public were
on him, the knowledge of that fact was all the more
a stimulus to him to endeavor to clear up the mj-stery
attending Livingstone's fate, or to find out his where-
abouts. These young gentlemen departed from Eng-
land for Zanzibar with the view of executing faithfully
.the instructions for the search and relief of Dr. Living-
stone. When the commander arrived at Bagamoyo,
the initial point on his line of route, he heard that Dr.
Livingstone was found and relieved, and he hastened back
to Zanzibar to consult with the British Consul, as he
was commanded to do ; who advised him that, under
the circumstances, it was useless for him to continue the
mission : he heard also through the same medium, cor-
roborated by a certain postscript in a certain Blue Book,
YALEDICT0E7.
689
that Dr. Livingstone was inimical to the geographers at
home. Whereupon the commander (Lieut. Dawson)
resigned, because he had been led to believe that his
presence would be distasteful to Dr. Livingstone.
Lieut. Henn next undertook to guide the relief party ;
but just as he arrived at the initial point, I appeared
upon the field in person, and informed him, in reply to
questions as to whether Dr. Livingstone was in need of
supplies, that the traveller had all the supplies he
required, except a few luxuries, and fifty good
freemen, according to a list which I produced for his
examination. He also returned to Zanzibar, consulted
with his friend Dr. Kirk, and resigned the command to
Mr. Oswald Livingstone. Lastly, this gentleman, who
13 a son of the traveller, undertook to lead a relief
party to his Either. But this young gentleman was
begiiming to suffer from a severe malady, which in the
opinion of his father's friend Dr. Kirk would totally
incapacitate him from undertaking such a journey.
He therefore, though with great reluctance, formally
resigned.
In a spirit of candor and fair play, lot us see who is
responsible for the withdrawal and return of the English
search party. In my humble opiiiion, it is not Lieut.
Dawson, nor any of his companions. They were told
to go and relieve Livingstone, but to consult with
Dr. Kirk. If Dr. Kirk advised the party not to go
on, because he thought Dr. Livingbtone would di.sliiic
their presence, "the young gentlemen, in my opinion,
did perfectly right in returning ; because he, as chosen
umpire of their fortunes, had a right to advise them
to return, if, in his opinion, the fact of .their presence
in Unyanyembe would be objectionable to Dr. Living-
stone. But I disagree with Dr. Kirk, if he opines that
2 Y
600
SOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
it would be objectionable. I know Dr. Livingstone
would bare welcomed tliem if tbe young men came
to do bim a service, and tbat, so far as be was
concerned, tbey migbt pick up tbe " tbreads of
bis work." I agree witli bim, tbougb, tbat tbeir
presence was unnecessary, tbeir relief not required. I
differ also witb Dr. Kirk, tbat Dr. Livingstone bas bad
a quarrel witb tbe Royal Geograpbical Society, or is
inimical to its members in any way. During tbe four
montbs I lived witb bim, I never beard bim utter
a word against tbe Eoyal Geograpbical Society.
Almost all bis personal friends are members of tbis
same Society.
But tbe real and prime cause of tbe collapse of tbe
expedition was tbe omission on tbe part of tbe Council
to instruct tbe commander, Lieut. Dawson, wbat to do,
in tbe event of meeting witb me with Dr. Livingstone's
despatcbes and letters, and receiving tbe assurance
tbat be was well and amply supplied witb stores. Had
tbey olJicially admitted tbat it was possible tbe
American Expedition bad already succeeded on its
errand of mercy and cbarity, and bad prepared tbe
young men for tbis contingency, tbe Council bad now no
need to cbarge Lieut. Dawson or his companions with
disloyalty or impotence, nor Lieut. Dawson and bis
gallant companions to feel regret tbat tbey voluntarily
offered tbeir fortunes and tbeir lives in tbe service of
the Society. Since the Council omitted this most
important article of instructions, the members of tbe
Council themselves, and tbey alone, are responsible
for tbe collapse of tbe English Search and Relief Ex-
pedition.
And now, my dear reader, I must close. I have
bidden a farewell to tbe Wagogo, with tbeir wild
POSTSCrJPT.
691
effroutery ; to ^lionvu, chief of tribute-talcers and black-
mailers ; to tlie noisj' clatter of the Waviiiza ; to the
inhospitable Warundi ; to tlie Arab slave-traders and
half-castes ; to all fevers, remittent and intermittent ;
to Makata swamps and crocodiles ; to Ijrackish waters
and howling plains ; to ray own dusky friends and
faithful followers ; to the Hero-traveller and Christian
gentleman, Liyixgstoxe ; and to you, Critics, and all
friends and enemies — 0113 and all — I bid you farewell !
POSTSCRIPT.
I wisn to sa,y that in the course of this book I have
written some rough things respecting certain geographers
^ and others. If, in so doing, I have touched tho
feelings of any individual, I regret it, !My apology is,
that what I have written is the outcome of rav feeliners
at the time I was writing ; I am a traveller and a
journalist, more accustomed to rapid writing than to
' polished diction, but I have preferred to let these thoughts
and impressions stand as they are, and for what they
are worth, rather than have them edited into a style
which might have been infinitely better in a liter iry
point of view, but which would not have been mine.
At the very last moment, and when these sheets had
nearly all been printed off, I was not less gratified than
I confess I was surprised to receive an invitation to
dine with the members of the Royal G('Ogra])hical
Society. Somehow, ever since, and indeed almost
before, my lauding in England, the impression had
become fixed in my mind that the humble service
which I have been providentially permitted to render
692
EOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.
to geographical science in finding out and in rescuing
the great Explorer, and in bringing to England the
results of his many years of toil, was a performance
not welcome to the Royal Geographical Society. That
impression may have given a tone of bitterness to some
of the remarks in my book ; with all candour, I am now
willing to admit, that that impression was unfounded.
Great bodies move slowly : I was impatient ; and,
doubtless, I was wrong in my hopes and anticipations
that the story I had to tell would be received at once
without hesitation and without doubt or cavil. I had
thought that for the sake of my story I should have
been received at once by the Royal Geographical
Society, but I had not weighed the difficulties which
necessarily surround the movements of so august and
scientific a body. The mills of the gods are said to
grind slowly but surely; in like manner the Royal •
Geographical Society discovered slowly but surely that
I was not a charlatan, and that I had done what I said
I had done, and then they extended to me the right
hand of fellowship with a warmth and generosity whiclj
I shall never forget. I beg now to assure the members
of the Royal Geographical Society that their recognition
of my poor services is not the less welcome to me
because it comes somewhat late. Especially do I thank
Sir Henry Rawlinson, not only for the kind and
generous words he spoke of myself, but also for the
noble and handsome manner in which he withdrew a
remark he once hastily made before he knew me, and
when he was unaware of certain facts which have since
come to light. I will only add that pext to the honor
which Her Majesty the Queen of England has done
me I shall ever treasure the medal of the Royal
Geographical Society,
APPENDIX.
The following interesting abstracts, taken from the Eoyal Geo-
graphical Society's Proceedings, are published with the permission of
Mr. Bates, Permanent Secretary, E.G.S. :
The Peesident read to the meeting the following official letter, which he
had received from Lord Clarendon, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, la
reply to his petition urging upon the Government to grant siid to Dr. Living-
stone. He was sure they would all unite with him in returning the grateful
thanks of the Society to Lord Clarendon and her Majebty's Government for
the communication.
" Foreign Office, May 19, 1870.
"Sir, — I have lost no time in submitting to my coUeasues your observa-
tions upon the position in which Dr. I^ivin^^'stone is jtiaced in consequence of
his want of uiomy, and her Majebty's Government have not failed to consider
all you have ur^ied in favour of a further grant to the distinguished traveller,
viz., that he has stru^gKd without aid or conimiiuiciuion with England for the
last three years ; that, by the last accounts, he had reached a point from which
he can neither advance nor retreat without supplies ; and that the money
granted to him at his departure being exliausted, further funds are earnestly
required to provide a fresh equipmeut and the means of conveying it into the
interior.
" I have now great pleasure in informing you that her Majesty's Govern-
ment are prepared to autliorise a grant of £1000 on account of i)r. Living-
stone's exix-'ditioii, in the earnest hope tliat the sum may be the means of
promoting his return in safety to this country.
"I am, Sir, your obedient humble servant,
" Clabesbok."
"Sir R. 1. MuEcnisoN, Cart."
On the 23rd of May, 1870, Sir R. Murchison speaks as follows of his
friend Dr. Livings tone :
Hiroughout the pitst year we have been kept in a state of anxious suspense
respecting the position of our great traveller Livingstone, and I grieve to close
this address without being able to olVcr some encouraging sentences ou tho
pros[)ect of speedily welcumiu;^ him home. At the same time, there is no
694
APPENDIX,
cause for despondency as to his life and safety. We know that he has been
for some time at Ujiji oQ the Lake Tanganyika, whence he wrote home on the
30th of May last, though unable to make any movement for want of carriers
and sui)plies. These were, indeed, forwarded to him by Dr. Kirk from Zan-
zibar, when, alas ! an outbreak of cholera stopped and paralysed the relieving
[larty. Recent intelligence, however, has reached the Foreign Office to the
effect that the pestilence had subsided to so great an extent that we may
presume the communication between the coast and Ujiji has before now been
re-opened.
The work which still lies before Livingstone has been often adverted to,
and it is hoped that he will live to advance to the north end of the Tanganyika,
and there ascertain if its waters flOw into the Albert Nyanza of Baker. If the
junction should be proved we may indulge the thought that, informed as
Livingstone must now be of the actual carrying out of the great project of
Sir Samuel Baker, h6 may endeavour to meet his great contemporary, ITie
progress of the great Egyptian expedition of Baker having been delayed in its
outset, we know that it only left Khartoum to ascend the White Nile in
February. After reaching Gondokoro, as was expected to be the case, in the
first days of March, some time must necessarily ela[)se in estabh'shing a factory
above the upper rapids and beyond the tributary Asua, where the steam
vessels are to be put to^cfher before they are launched on the Nile water, on
which they are to pass to tliC great lake Albert Nyanza. As soon, however,
as a steamer is on that lake we may be assured that Baker, with his well-
known energy and jtromptitude, will lose not a moment in the endeavour to
reach its southern end, in the expectation of there giving hand and help to
Livingstone. Let us therefore cherish this cheering hope, which would indeed
be the most happy consummation pur hearts can desire.
The British public will be much better informed than they liave been on
this subject when they examine a recent small work by Mr. Keith Johnston,
jun. In this pamphlet the author has given a succinct history of all tho
explorations in South Africa, and has also put together from the best autho-
rities (I'etermann and others) a map which shoe's clearly to what extent the
rivers wliich flow from the southern highlands, on the south and S.S.W. of Lake
Tanganyika, are for tlie most pnrt indcjiendent of that lake, and may prove to
be tributaries of the Coni^o. On the other hand, the streams which enter the
Lake Tanganyika through the Lake Lieniba of Livingstone, are ])robabIy the
ultimate sources of the Nile itself, while the Kasai and other streams
which feed the lalces Bangweolo and Moero may be found to issue in the
Congo.
If this last hypothesis should prove to be true, the waters which Living-
stone has been the first to exi'lore will be found to be the sources both of tho
Kile and the Congo. As respects the Nile, however, my sagacious friend
must feel that until he proves that some of these waters of the Tanganyika
flow into the Albert Nyanza, the problem in regard to tho Nile remains
luisolved.
In the nienntime the Nile hypnthcsis of Mr. Findlny and others (that the
Lake Tanganyika will be found to unite with the Albert Nyanza) is, accord-
ing to the now estimated relative altitudes of these southern waters, the
most probable. God {irant that the illustrious Livingstone may demonstrate
APPENDIX.
695
this to be tlie case, and that we shall soon sne him at home as the dis-
coverer of the ultimate sources of both the Nile and the Congo.
On this important and exciting subject it is gratifying to state that our
medallist, Dr. Petermann, has laid down, ou a general map of South Africa
in the last number of his ' Mittheilungen,' that which he terms a chronological
sketch of all Livingstone's wonderful and arduous travels from 1841 to 1869.
In respect to the tributaries of the Cun^o, the map of Petermaun differs hypo-
thetically from that of Jlr. Keith Johnston, jun., inasmuch as he indicates
that the waters of the Bangweolo, Motro, and Ulenge lakes probably point
to north and by east ; and if this should prove to be the case they also will
fall into the great Albert Nyanza of Baker.
In concluding the consideration of this absorbing topic, I rejoice to be
enabled to state, that in consequence of my representing to Lord Clarendon
the isolated position of Livingstone at Ujiji, where he was without carriers or
supplies, whilst he was, comparatively, near his ultimatum, the north end of
the La'<e Tangamika, her INLijesty's Government have kindly afl'orded the
means whereby the great traveller may be efl'ectively relieved belorc he returns
to his admiring country.
In tlie address of tlio President of the Eoyal G cograpliical Society,
it is stated that great credit is to be assigned to Dr. Beke, Mr. Arrow-
smith, and Mr. Findlay, for their support on tLcoretical groimds of
the great southerly extent of the Nile basin, should the great modern
problem of the southern watershed of the Nile bo solved.
Credit for tlicory ! Then, now that Sir E. Murchison, the consistent
friend of Dr. Livingstone, is dead, and Dr. Bekc has retracted his
support of the above tlicory, what credit sliall be assigned to Dr. Beke
by Sir H. llawlinson for the theoretical support this gentleman gives
to the same watershed being, not that of the Nile, but the Congo's?
At tho 14th Meeting of the Eoyal (Jeographical Society, held
18th of June, 1870, it will be observed that the President of the
Koyal Geographical Society states that no expedition for the search of
Livingstone had ever been intended. My orders were given me to go
after Livingstone in October, 1869. The Royal Geographical Society
then should not charge mc with doing that which they intended to do,
and should not feel anger at my having found him, since I clabhcd
sot with their duties.
The PnESinENT, before proceeding to the consideration of the papers that
were to be read, exjilained to the meeting the nature of tho succour tliat
bad, to the great credit of the Earl of Clan udon and her Miijesty's Oovern-
nient, been sent to Dr. Livingstone. Tiiere hud been much misnpprehen-
eion on the matter, juflging from the numerous applications he had received
from active young men anxious to go in search of Dr. Livingstone, it being
BuiipoKcd fiiat there was an expedition about to start for that purix>se from
this country. No nuch erjiedition hod, houci'fr, been iuiended. Dr. Living-
Bloue had been more than three yeaas and a half iu the heart of Africii without
696
APPENDIX,
a siugle European attendant. He (the President) was not sure that the sight
of an unacclimatised young gentleman sent out from England would not pro-
duce a very bad effect upon the Doctor, because, in addition to his other labours,
he would have to take care of the new arrival. He had therefore to announce
that the £1000 which the Government had given will be sent by Mr. Churchill,
the Consul of Zanzibar, who happens, accidentally, to be in this country, and
who is going out immediately. He will instruct Dr. Kirk to fit out a similar
expedition to that which started last year, -but which was impeded by an attack
of cholera. The epidemic has greatly subsided, and the only difficulty now is
to get to Ujiji, where Dr. Livingstone was when last heard of, unable to move
forwards or backwards for want of carriers and supplies. It will take two
months or more for these supplies to reach Ujiji from Zanzibar, therefore
aJl anxiety must be put aside for months to come. In about seven or eight
months good news might be expected, and soon after that he (the Tresideut)
hoped we might see our friend again in his native country.
Letter from Mr. Chuhchill, Consul at Zanzibar^ concerning
Dr. Livingstone.
" Zanzibar, November 18, 1870.
"My Lord, — After a vast amount of delay, that will appear unnecessary
to those who are not acquainted with the coiniirj', I have succeeded in send-
ing off to Dr. Livingstone a rcinlbrcemcnt of seven men, who have engaged to
place themselves at the disposal of the Doctor, as porters, boatmen, &c., and
a quantity of beads, clothus, and provisions for his use. He will receive, by
the same opportunity, the letters and papers confided to me by Lord Clarendon
and the Geographical Society, together with son)e wearing apparel sent by the
Doctor's relatives. 1 am in hopes that these will reach Ujiji in the month of
February, but nothing certain can be said about it. In a future despatch I
will send an acco>int of the expenditure attending this expedition. News
was received about a month ago of the arrival at Unyanyenibe, in June last,
of men and supplies sent up in October IStil) by Dr. Kirk ; seven of the men
had died of cholera, and the ren-,ait)der, having consumed the jjrovisions for-
warded lor them, had, with the advice of the Governor of Unyanyenibe, drawn
upon the supplies ol which tliey were tlie bearers for their subsistence. This,
at first sight, appears preposterous ; but on consideration it may be explained
by the fact that, without supplies from some source or other, the progress of
the caravan would have been stopped, and, in the absence of an authority to
that effect from the Sultan, the Governor of Unyanyembe refused to grant th ;
necessary sulsistence-money.
"The latest accounts from the interior state that Dr. Livingstone, after
visiting a place called Manime (Manyuema), had returned to Ujiji."
The Chairman, in continuation, said the letter from Dr. Kirk, mentioned in
Sir Roderick Jlurchison's letter to the Times, was thrco weeks later in date
than that of Jlr. Churchill, and as he (Dr. Kirk) did not state that Dr. Living-
stone had really arrived at Ujiji, althouLih deriving his information from the
same source as Mr. Churchill, it would be seen tliat the latter had announced
the event, as it were, by aniieipation. Dr. Kirk merely said that a letter
written in Arabic had been received from the (;hicf of Unyanyembe, dated
July, 1870, and stating that Livingstone was expected to arrive in Ujiji at the
same time as the men and stores which were then on their way to the samo
APPENDIX.
697
place. It also stated that the traveller had been to a distant country called
Manime. To understand the importance of this communication it was neces-
sary to refer to the last letter written home by Dr. Livingstone himself. It
was one addressed to Dr. Kirk from Ujiji, and dated the 30th of May, 1869.
In it Livingstone s.aid, " As to the work to be done by me, it is only to con-
nect the sources which I have discovered, from 500 to 700 miles south of
Speke and Baker's, with their Nile. The volume of water which flows north
from lat. 12° S. is so large, 1 suspect that I have been working at the sources
of tlie Congo as well as those of the Nile. 1 have to go down the eastern line
of drainage to Baker's turning-point, Tanganyika, Nyigc Chowambe (Baker's?)
are one water, and the head of it is 300 miles south of this. The outflow of
this, whether to Congo or Nile, 1 have to ascertain. The people west of this,
called Manyerna, are cannibals, if Arabs speak truly. I may have to go there
first, and down Tanganyika, if I come out uneaten, and find my new squad
from Zauzibar."
The following is an important letter from Dr. Kirk, written a day
or so after his return from a hunting excursion he made to Kikoka,
the first camp beyond the Kingani:
" Zanzibar, 18th February, 1871.
" My Loud, — I have the honour to report (hat, information having reached
me, tbrougli a native, tliat the men sent olf by Mr. Churchill with stores for
Dr. Livingstone, as reported in his desjiatcli of the 18th of November, 1870, were
siill at Biiganioyo, a coast town on the opposite main-lanil, aiiil had not taken
any steps to procure porters and proceed on their journey, I determined, if
possibU-, to go myself and see them oil". 'Captain Tucker, commanding H.M.S.
Columbine, on niy request, kindly offered to place his ship at my disposal for
this iiurpose.
"Un reaching Bagamoyo I found that the men referred to were still living
in the vill.ige, while Arab caravans set out on the same journey. It is tnie
that porters this year are dillicult to obtain, few of the jieople of Unyamwezi
liaving Come down in consequence of deaths last year from cholera among
their friends.
" However, by using try influence with the Arabs I succeeded at once in
sending off ail but four loads, and followed inland one day's journey myself.
The reiiiaining four loads 1 arranged on niy return were to bo taken as far
as lUisanyenibe by an Arab caravan, and thence sent to Ujiji by Said bin
lialini, the governor.
" Once fairly off on the road, there is little to induce these people to
delay; whereas at I'aganioyo, living in good huts among their own jieople,
tmii thinking that there, unknown, they might enjoy thems^'lves and earn
monthly pay, had I not gone in person they might have loit( red yet several
months.
" While passing along the trade route on the short excursion I mftdo from
Bagamoyo we met several caravans on their way from Unyamwezi, I'rori, &a ;
and by questioning the natives as well as the h adeis, found that no new.s had
been received lately at Unyanvenibe from I'jiji, and nothing known of Dr.
Liviiigst(me. All wore aware that ho had gone on a journey from which he
had not yet returned up to the latest -dates.
" The country I jiassed through after crossing the River Kingani was like a
beautitul jjark aiul woodland, full of all sorts of big game, including the
giraffe, elaud, zebra, harte-beestu, wild-bcestc, &c., some of which I shot not
698
APPENDIX.
more than twelve miles from the coast town of Ba^amoyo. The Kinganl
River was full of hippopotami, and on its baniss wild buffaloes were found.
" Unfortunately, wherever the giraife exists in numbers this rich and com-
paratively healthy region is infested by the tsetse fly, so dangerous to cattle
and horses.
" On my return to Bagamoyo I devoted a day to the study of the French
mission estalilishraent and their maDagement of freed slaves. On this I shall
do myself the honour to submit a separate report to your Lordship.
" Since my visit four years ago I found the town of Bagamoyo to have
trebled its extent. Native huts were fast being replaced by stone buildings,
and here, as elsewhere on the coast, the trade is rapidly passing into the hands
of the Kutchees.
" Jomr KiEK."
"DR. KIRK AND DR. LIVINGSTONE.
" To the Editm- of ' The Daily Telegraph.'
« G8, Portsdown Road, Maida Yale, July 25th, 1872.
" Sir, — I have read with great interest your correspondent's account of the
interview he had yesterday at Marseilles with Mr. Stanley, the discoverer of
Dr. Livingstone, and I feel called upon to .stand by my friend Dr. Kirk. Let
me begin by saung that if there has been any neglect at Zanzibar in commu-
nicating with Dr. Livingstone, I, as the political agt'nt and Her Majesty '.s
consul there during the last five years, must share with Dr. Kirk the blame,
as within that lap.se of time I am responsible for what apathj' may have been
displayed while 1 was at my post — viz., upwards of two years.
" During my first stay at Zanzibar (from June, 18'i7, to April, 1S69\ it will
be remembered that Dr. Livingstone was supposed to have been killed ; so
that very few, if any, letters were sent to Zanzibar for him. I can vouch for
the I'act that no letters passed through my hands during the whole of that
time.
"In compliance with Dr. Living.stone's request, I sent to Ujiji, towards the
middle of the yi ar 1868, a certain quauliiy of sujiiilies and meiiicines, but I
am not aware that any private letters were sent, except those that Dr. Kirk
and 1 wrote to him, for the na-ion that is nu'nii<ined above. On a previous
occasion Dr. Seward had sent n\\ v>d Kihva, quinine and stores, which were
to await the Docior's arrival at Ujiji. In both the.se expeditions Dr. Kiik's
valuable assistance was readily obtained, anil I must here bear testimony to
the great interest that Dr. Kirk always took in anything connected with his
friend Dr. i.ivingstune. On no occision did 1 ever perceive the slightest
indication of jealousy on the part of Dr. Kirk.
"Alter my departure from Zanzibar in April, 1869, Dr. Kirk organised a
further ex|ieiiitiiin, con.'sisting of fourteen men ami a large caravan of su]iplies,
to meet the great traveller at Ujiji. Cholera intervened and delayed ihi.s
expedition, and out of the fourteen men oidy seven reached Unyanyembe.
There the remaining partj' appear to have heipcil themselves out of tho
supi)lies ; biit for this Dr. Kirk surely cannot be blamed; and, after all it was
better that they .should have done this than have declared theniselves nuablo
to proceed on their journey for want of uu ans of sulxsistence.
" On my return to Zanzibar in August, 1870, furnished as I was with
ample means by Her Majesty's Oovernnient, I iirepared a third expedition,
antl cho.<G seven men wlio knew the country in the neighboinhood (if Ujiji to
replace those who were reported to have died; with instructions to proceed to
Ujiji, and there to await Dr. Livingstone's arrival ; but the road was unsafe,
and no caravan would venture up country for a considerable time after tho
expedition was organised, so that it was detained at Bagamoyo until after my
APPENDIX.
699
departure on sick leave in the following December. This is the caravan
mentioned by Mr. Stanley as having left Bagamoyo two days before Dr. Kirk's
visit to the coast in the Columhin«f With it went the letters and parcels that
I had taken out to Zanzibar for Dr. Livicgstone. Kirk is said to have made
shooting the primary object of his visit to Bagamoyo, and to have nej:lected
the caravan altogether ; but Mr. Stanley's own statement shosvs that the
caravan had already started when Kirk reached that spot ; and surely a village
of 500 inhabitants is not so large that he could not learn in ten minutes how
matters stood. If, therefore, he went out on a shooting excursion with the
officers of the Columbine, he did so knowing that the object of his going to
Bagamoyo was accomplished. Mr. Stanley's statement would indeed show
tliat the simple rumour of Dr. Kirk's approaching arrival Lad had the good
eflect of putting the caravan in motion.
"To those who are unacquainted with Zanzibar, the statement that eleven
packages of letters from home, sent to Mr. Stanley in the course of nine
months, had reached Ujiji, while in three years Dr. Livingstone had not been
able to receive a single letter, would certainly appear strange; but let me
explain that in every likelihood those eleven packages, together with the tele-
gram, were received at Zanzibar by the same mail, and that they were sent up
to Ujiji by tlie same messenger. One caravan may pass through the country
where another may fail to reach its destination; and the very fight that
occurred at Unyanyembe, in which Mr. Stanley was involved, may have
cleared the way for future caravans. But 1 have only to mention Mr. Stanley's
own adventures to show the difficulties that sometimes attend caravans on
their way to Ujiji ; and if Dr. Livin'.;stone, on the other hand, did not get
anj' letters, it is because, as I have shown, no letters were written to him, his
friends believing him to be dead.
"I ho])e Mr Stanley has given Dr. Kirk the opportunity of justifying him-
self; but, however this may be, I have felt it my duty to conjc forward and
make known to the public, through your columns, the s3'miiathy and friendly
feeling that Dr. Kirk has always entertained for his old friend and fellow-
traveller, Dr. Livingstone.
" I am, Sir,
" Your obedient humble servant,
" Hy. A. ClIUKCHILL."
Hero is a letter vvliich will makq Dr. Livingstone smilo as it
makes mo. It is from the " moral idiot " Shcrif, the half-caste tailor,
who divined on the Koran that Dr. Livingstone was dead, and upon
this divination sold the Doctor's goods for ivory :
(Communicated by the Foreign Office through Lord Enfield.)
" Zanzibar, March 10, 1H71.
"My Loed, — I have the honour to forward, in translation, copies of letters
just received from Ujiji, from which it will be seen that up to five mouths
i'go Dr. Livingstone was at a ]ilace named Maiiakoso, and only awaiting tlio
men and supplies sent oil' by mo last year, and that they have uuw reiu;hed
him, or at least been forwarded from Ujiji to the i)lace where he is.
" It being now time to clo.se letters lor transmis.sion by the present occasion,
I shall not be able to make incjuiry among the Arabs ac([uainted with these
parts as to the iwsition of the places named, but which I suppose are on the
western side of the lake.
*• John Kirk."
700
APPENDIX.
(Translation.)
" To Consul KiEK from Sherif Basheikh bin Ahmed.
" I have to inform you that on the 15th of Shahan (10th November) a
messenger came from the people of Menama with letters from the Arabs who
are there, and one from the Doctor, and these letters were dated the 20th
Eejib (loth October).
" In answer to my inquiries they told me that the Doctor was well, althoufrh
he had been suffering:, and that he is for the present at the town of Manakoso
with Mohamed bin Gharib, waiting for the caravans, being helpless, without
means and with few followers — only eight men — so that he cannot move
elsewhere or come down.
" We have sent off twelve of our men with American cloth, kaniki, beads,
sugar, coffee, salt, two pair of shoes, shot, powder, and soap, and a small bottle
of medicine (quinine).
"All that he was in need of we have sent to him, and I remain at Ujiji
awaiting bis orders.
" Dated 20th Shaban, 1287 (15th November, 1870).
" True translation. John Kibk."
The following was read :
Sir lioDERiCK MuBonsoN communicated that he had received a letter from
Dr. Kirk, dated 30th April, 1871, in which he stated that although no one
at Zanzibar had been to Manemeh (the place where Dr. Livingstone was last
heard of), he had ascertained that it was about a month's journey, say 200 or
300 miles, west of Tanganyika, and is a thriving ivory mart.
Dr. Kirk is of opinion that Livingstone had been led thither to examine a
western lake he had heard of, and into which the waters from Cazembo
flowed, and to ascertain whether they go to the west and the Congo or to
the noj th and Nile basin. He further hopes that if Livingstone should have
settled the outflow of the Tanganyika he will be satisfied, and leave all the
rest of the work to luture travellers, seeing that he has been out upwards of
five years and must sorely want rest.
It is satisfactory to know that abundant supplies are waiting for the Doctor
at Ujiji on his return.
Dr. Kirk adds, that as the rains will soon be over he can send any letters
or parcels to Ujiji in about a month, that is, about the 1st of June.
The President said he found some difBculty in believing that there was an
interval of nearly 300 miles between Manakoso and Lake Tanganyika. The
letter received from Livingstone by the Arabs in charge of his stores at Ujiji
was only twenty-five days in transit. Now the average rate of travelling in
those countries was only ten miles a day ; so that, judging from the time
occupied by the transit of the letters, there could only be an interval of 250
miles between Ujiji and Manakoso, including the passage of the lake. It was,
moreover, satisfactory to find that Livingstone was not stationed in an un-
known cannibal territory, as had been supposed, but in a thriving ivory mart,
between which and the sea-coast there was a constant trade communication."
Juno 26th, 1871. — Sir Ilom-y Eawlinson in his Prosidontial Address
under this dato, said, among other things relating to geographical
matters :
APPENDIX.
701
With regard also to our other great African explorer, Dr. Livingstone, we *
are still kept in a state of the most paiuful suspense. We learn by the last
reports from Dr. Kirk at Zanzibar, dated in the middle of August, that the
Arab merchants with whom Dr. Livingstone had travelled from the south up
to Manyemeh, had passed on from that place to Ujiji, and early in the month
of June were daily expected at Unj'anyembe. From Livingstone himself,
however, no direct intelligence had recently reached Zanzibar, and it was only
by inference that Dr. Kirk supposed him to be still at Manyemeh. The
second batch of supplies intended for him had in the mean time passed on
through TJnyanyembe, en route to Ujiji, and Dr. Kirk was anxiously
awaiting news of the arrival of the American traveller, Mr. Stanley, at that
place. This gentleman, who is said to be of the true exploring type, left
Bagamoyoon the coast for Ujiji in February last, and intended to communi- ■
cate with Livingstone before proceeding further into the interior, so that we
must receive before long, from this, if not from any other quarter, some definite
intelligence of our great traveller's ])resent condition and his plans for the
future. Those who know Mr. Stanley personally are much imj)ressed with
his determined character and his aptitude for African travel. His expedition
is (Veil equipped, and he enjoys the great advantage of having secured the
services of ' Bombay,' the well-known factotum of Speke and Grant. He is
entirely dependent, I may add, on his own resources, and is actuated apparently
by a mere love of adventure and discovery ; and I need hardly say that if he
succeeds in restoring Livingstone to us, or in assisting him to solve the great
problem of the upper drainage into the Nile and Congo, he will be welcomed
by this Society as heartily and as warmly as if he were an English explorer
acting under our own immediate auspices.
It will be seen from the above that Sir Henry Eawlinson was
inclined to be complimentary wbou speaking of me at that date.
The next letters received about Dr. Livingstone and myself are
dated 25tb and 22nd of September, 1871, and are as follows :
" Zanzibar, September 25, 1871.
" Dear Sib Roderick, — You will see, by the account sent to the Foreign
Office, that difficulties have sprung up in Unyamwezi and cut off Ujiji from
the coast ; and as it happens no Ujiji news has been received for some time
back, we may be a long time in getting any certainty of Dr. Livingstone's
movements.
"All I can say is, that I lack reports from that ]'lace : neither he nor his
Arab friend Mohamed bin Gharib had arrived ; but there was a story, wliich I
think worthless, to the effect that they were Iwth to go round the south end
by way of Wemba.
" I can yet get no correct account of Manyema : every one knows it, but I
find uo one who has been there. I have seen people who have crossed the
Tanganyika from Ujiji, and seen the Manyema caravans setting out, btit it
seems to be rather a nuw and special line of trade.
" I am glad that the Governor of UnyanyomlMj is to Iw removed: he is the
one on whom the war there is laid, and if he had been killed we sliould all
have been better satisfied.
" Mr. Stanley was at Unyanyembe and in the fiaht, but the Arabs aban-
doned him ; four of his men were killed, but he escajxid. His ])rospect of
getting on is at present small, but I really cannot say where he desires to go
702
APPENDIX.
4 to ; he never disclosed bis plans here. I sent up letters for Dr. Livingstone
uuder his care, and put also the things (of the second lot — the first has reached
Ujiji,) for Livingstone into his hands.
" I fancy he will make a point of meeting Livingstone first ; but whether,
having seen what is best to do, he will push on or come back, I cannot say.
He was ill of fever when he wrote, but has got tolerabl}' well.
" The men who came down return to-morrow, and ought to be there in
twenty-five days, for the road is fine, and grass and food plenty.
" Believe me, dear Sir Roderick, yours most sincerely,
« John Kiee."
" Zanzibar, September 22, 1871.
" My Lord, — Letters just received by special messengers, who left Unya-
nyembe about a month ago, inform us of a sad disaster that has befallen the
Arab settlement there, and that will in all likelihood stop the road to Ujiji and
Karague for some time to come.
" All accounts agree as to the main facts ; . but naturally the letters written
by Mr. Stanley, an American gentleman, who was on the Sjxjt, are the most
circumstantial and reliable. 1 am indebted to Mr. Webb, the American
Consul here, for some details related in those letters, which will, no doubt, be
published in full elsewhere. Briefly the position is this : the Arab colony
of the interior, whose centre is Unyanj'embe, has for some time been led by
a set of avaricious, unprincipled men, whose acts of extortion, both on natives
and the poorer Arabs, have for si me time back been comjilained of to Seyd
Burghash, who is impotent to interfere at such a distance so long as things go
well for the Arabs. A chief, whose village was one day's journey distance on
the main road to Ujiji and Karague, fell under tlie disjileasnre of the Unya-
nyembe settlers, and his place was attacked in due course by a force of about
1.^00 muskets. Seeing that he could not hold the blockaded village, he retired
with his followers, and formed an ambush for the return of the attacking
party, when laden with ivory and other booty. The result was disastrous to
the Arabs, and a great many were killed, including ten or twenty of the
leaders, men of good family here. The Arab retreat soon became a rout, and
much property was lost. Fortunately Mr. Stanley, who was weak and ill
from fever, managed to return to r'nyanyembe, but he was abandoned by the
^rabs, whose conduct he speaks of as cowardly in the extreme.
" Such is the constant state of things in Central Africa. The road to Ujiji
will now be shut for a time, and when we may again hear of Dr. Livingstone
is most uncertain. One of the men who came down now says that there was
a rumour that Maliomed bin Gliarib and the white man (Dr. Livingstone)
would come back from Mauyema by way of Marungu and Wemba. The
report is wortli nothing, 1 consider, but I may as well mention it.
" The last lot of things sent by Mr. Churchill had reached Unyanyembc, as
I have before reported ; but 1 now learn that the headman, in whose charge
they were, died the day alter setting out for Ujiji, and the goods were brought
back to Unyanyembe. I have little faith now in the sheikh Saeed bin
Salim, and shall write to Mr. Stanley, wlio will probably not have been able
as yet to quit the [jlace, and authorize him to make such arrangements as ho
can to get the goods forwarded, or if not, to act for me to the best of his
judgment in protecting them i'roni plunder ; but in such a state of things as
this it will be most l"ortuuatc if they have escaped, and ever reach their
destination.
" The messenger? will atait on their return in a day or two, and should be
APPENDIX.
703
able to accomplish the journey easily in seventy or seventy-five days, for the ^
■way so far is open and food plenty.
" To the Arab ivory trade the present position of affairs is most serious ;
they have now settled far up in the country, and collected about them
thousands of slaves drawn from the country itself; these they cannot do
without, and yet cannot trust ; they are all armed, and may tm-n against their
masters.
" The chief with whom they are at war is well provided with arms, and a
caravan of his is now on the way up with several hundred kegs of {wwder.
To stop these people on the way, the Wasacjara have been told already to
attack and plunder them; but this too may be but the beginnins; of similar
attacks on Arab caravans ; for the wild tribes, when once plunder has been
encouraged, will care little whom they attack.
" I have, &c.,
" John Kiek,
" Acting Political Agent and Consul for Zanzibar.
" Earl GEAirvniE."
Captain R. F. BtmTON said this was not the first time that distiirbances
had broken out between the Arab trading communities and the natives of
Unyanycmbe and Unyamwezi. Tlie present state of things might continue
for two or three years; but if Livingstone wished to avoid passing tlirough
that district there would be no difficulty in his returning by the south of
Lake Tanganyika. At the same time,. a white man like Livingstone, fearless,
and speaking the native languages, would be able safely to pass through
places in which no black man dare venture. He had not the slightest fear
'with regard to Livingstone. He was convinced that the moment anything
happened to him the news would rapidlj' spread to the coast, and the Society
would hear of it almost as if it came by telegraph.
November 27th. — Sir Henry IIawuxson' announced that he had a com-
munication to make to the meeting on anotber subject in which the Geographical
Society took an equally warm interest — namely. Dr. Livingstcue. At the last
meeting he had occasion to read certain letters which had been addressed by
Dr. Kirk to our late revered President and to the Government of Bombay, in
wliich he described the accidental outbreak of troubles in Africa whicli hadcutotT
the communication between the sea-coast and Lake Tanganyika. The despatch
on the same subject addressed by Dr. Kirk to the Foreign Oflice had since then
been received, and proved to be a duplicate of that before read, addressed to
the Government of Bombay. He wished now to announce the measures which
the Council had that day proposed to undertake in consequence of the nceipt
of these letters. It appeared to the Council and himself, now, that the hope
which we had of commuuicatiug with Dr. Livingstone through Mr. Stanley,
the American traveller, must for the present be abandoned ; and it had Ix'cotne
consequently their duty to cast about for some other means of reaching him.
Their intention now was to address the Foreign Oflice, with a view of arranging,
either directly from the Foreign Oflice or thrmmh co-operation iH'twcon the
Foreign Oflice and our Society, some means of communicating with the interior
district where Livingstone was supinjsed to be. One plan proposed was to send
native messengers, off"ering a reward of one hundred guineas to whichever
would bring back a letter in Dr. Livingstone's handwriting to tho sca-coast;
APPENDIX.
another, recommended by one of our African travellers, was to organise a direct
expedition headed by some experienced and well-qualified European. Which
of those two arraogements might be most advisable to pursue would depend
upon the result of their communication with the Foreign OfBce ; but the
Society might rest assured that tlie Council would leave no means untried of
ascertaining whether Dr. Livingstone was detained at Manyema, where he has
been so long reported to be staying, in company with the Arab trader Mohamed
bin Gharib.
Mr. HoRMUZD Rassam, on being asked for his opinion, said his experience
in Abyssinia taught Jiim that the best way to get information from indi-
viduals at a distance was by sending native messengers. On three different
occasions he adopted this plan of communicating with the Magdala captives
from Massowah. He employed three different messengers — one Christian,
another a Mohammedan, and a third a native of Western Abyssinia. He sent
them by different routes, and was perfectly convinced that they were ignorant
of each other's niovements. One of them, it was true, concocted a letter and
brought it back ; but the other two returned within ten days of the promised
time with authentic intelligence. Several Arabs at Muscat, who had travelled
as far as Lake Tanganyika, had assured him that there was no difficulty in
going up and down with beads and other articles for barter.
General Riqbt felt convinced that the plan recommended by Mr. Rassam
would entirely fail. In Abyssinia single travellers might go from one distant
part of the country to another, but on the east coast of Africa they could not.
All travellers must there be accompanied by caravans with a body of armed
men. The only caravans that performed the journey to the lakes were those
of traders, to whom the time occupied was of no momi nt, and if the Society
depended on any single native going in with a caravan and liaving to wait until
he could return with another, they might probably have to wait five years or
more. He was convinced the only means of communicating with Livingstone
and of rescuing him would be by sending an enterprising English traveller
from Zanzibar with a small armed party, well provided with supplies.
Mr. Rassam wished to add that he had communicated by means of mes-
sengers with chiefs in the distant Galla country, to reach whom p. journey of
thirty or forty days was required. He thought there might be no harm in
trying both plans.
The President said the Council had decided first to try the plan of offering
a reward to native messengers, and if that failed they might then undertake
the more serious aflair of sending an expedition.
The following correspondence relating to supplies forwarded to
Dr. Livingstone has been issued from the Foreign Office :
" Dr. Livingstone to Dr. Kirk.
" Ujiji, October 30, 1871.
" Sir, — I wrote on the 25th and 28th two very hurried lett»'rs, one for you
and the other for Lord Clarendon, which were t'orwanled to Unyanycmhc. 1
had just reached this place, thoroughly jaded in body and mind, and found
tliat your agent, Shcreet Hasha, had sold ofi' all the goods you sent for slaves
and ivory for himself. He had divined on the Koran and found that I waa
APPENDIX.
706
dead, also wrote to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves
to Mauyema, who returned and reported my decease, and he wished the per-
mission of the Governor to sell the goods. He, however, knew from men who
came from me in Manyema that I was near Ujiji, at Bambarre, and waiting
for him and supplies; but when my friends here protested against the sale of
my goods, he invariably answered, ' You know nothing about the matter ; I
alone know that the Consul ordered me to remain one month at Ujiji, and then
sell off and return.' When I came, he said Ludha had so ordered him. From
the Baniau slaves you sent I learn that Ludlia went to Ali bin Salim bin
Rashid, a person notoriously dishonest, and he recommended Shereef Basha as
leader of the caravan. No sooner did he obtain command than he went to
Muhamad Nassur, who furnished twenty full boxes of soap and eight cases ol
brandy, to be retailed in the course of the journey inland. At Bagamoyo Shereef
got a quantity of opium and gunpowder from two Banians there, whose names
are unknown to me. In their house Shereef broke the soap boxes and stored
the contents in my bales ; the brandy cases were kept entire, and pagazi em-
ployed to carry them and the opium and gunpowder, and paid out of my bales.
The Banians and Shereef had interposed their own trade speculation between
two Government officers, and thenceforward all the expenses of the journey
wure defrayed out of my supplies, and Shereef was able to send back to his
accomplices five frasilahs of ivory from Unyanyembe, value some £60; the
pagazi al^ain paid by me. He was in no hurry to aid me, but spent fourteen
months in traversing a distance that could easily have been accomplished in
tiiree. If we deduct two months' detention by sickness, we have still twelve
mouths, of which nine were devoted to the private interests of the Banians and
Shereef. He ran riot with my goods, buying the best provisions and drink
the country afibrdcd; lived in my tent till it was so rotten and full of hole^ I
never could use it once ; remained two months at three several places retailing
brandy, opium, gunpowder, and soap, and, these being finished, on reaching
Ujiji he would go no further. Here it is commonly reported he lay drunk for
a month at a time, the dura, pombe, and palm-toddy all bought with my fine
samsani beads. He issued twenty-four yards of calico per month for himself,
eight yards ditto for each of his two slaves, eight yards ditto for his woman, and
eight yards ditto to Avvathe, the other headman ; aud when he sent seven of the
Banian slaves emjiloyed by Ludha to me at Bambarre he would not allow me
more than two frasilahs of the very coarsest beads, evidently exchanged for
my fine samsams, a few pieces of calico, and, in great mercy, half of the coffee
and sugar. The slaves came without loads. Shereef fini8lie<l up, as above
stated, by selling ofl'all except the other half of the coffee and sugar and one
bundle of unsaleable beads, and four pieces of calico. He w( nt off from this,
but hearing of disturbances at Unyanyembe, dejwsited his ivory in a village
near to this, and coming back took the four pieces of calico, and I received, of
all the fine calico and beads you sent, not a single yard or string of beads.
Awathe, the other headman employed, was a spectator of all the plunder by
Shereef, from the coast upwards, and never opemd his mouth in remonstrance
or in sending back a rejiort to his employer. He carefully concealed an infir-
mity from you which prevented him from p rformiiig a single duty for me.
He had his shepa long Wfore he was engaged, and he stated to me that the
large fleshy growth came up at once on reaching Ujiji. It is not hydrocele
but sarcocelc, and his own statement proved that the pain he feigned had
entirely ceased when a friend of mine, Dugumbe, offered to convey him by
short easy stages to me. He refused, from believing that the Banians have so
much power over us that he will be paid in full for all the time he has been
devouring my goods, though quite luiable to do any duty. Dugumbe also
offered to convey a packet of letters that was delivered to Shereef here as my
agent, but when he told him that he was alxuit to start it was not forthcoming
It was probably destroyed to prevent my seeing the list of gowls you sent by
2 z
TOG
APPENDIX.
one Hassani io Unyanyembe, "With due deference to your judgment, \ claim
all the expenses incurred, as set down against me in Ludha's books, from the
J5anians, who by fraud converged a caravan to help me into a gratification of
their own greed. Muhamad Nassur can reveal the names of the other I'>anian
accomplices of Shcreef wno connived in supplanting help for me into a trade
speculation ; they ought to pay the slaves sent by Ludha, and let them, the
Banians, recover from Shereef. I report this case to her Majesty's Government
as well as to yon, and believe that your hands will thereby bo strengthened to
see that justice is done to me and that due punishment be inflicted on the Bani-
ans, on Shereef, and Awathe, and on the Bauian slaves who baffled and thwarted
me instead of fulfilling the engagement entered into in your presence. In intrust-
ing the matter of supplies and men for me to the Banian Ludha, you seem to
iiave been tmaware that our Government forbids its servants to employ slave.^.
The commissioner and consul at Ijoanda, on the West Coast, sent all the way
to St. Helena for ni'her stupid servants, so as not to incur the displeasure of
the Foreign Oflice by using very clever Portuguese slaves within call. In the
very trying circiim>tances you mention, during the visitation of cholera, and in
the absence of the iiistnietions I had enclosed to eniploj^ tree men and not
slaves, as also in the non-apiu-arance of the checks for money enclosed in the
lust packet, the call on [judha was, perhaps, the easiest oiirse, an<l 1 trust that
you will not consider me ungrateful if I point out that it involved a great mis-
take. Ludha is polite enoiigh, but the slave trade, and, indeed, most other
trades, is carried on chiefly by the money of Banians — Ihiiish subjects, who
receive most of the profits, and adroitly let the odium of slaving tall on
the Arabs. They hate us English, and rejoice mure .over our failures than
successes. Ludha sent his own and other Banian slaves, at $60 a year,
while the usual ])ay of free men at Zanzibar is from $25 to $30 a year. He
will charge enormous interest on the money advanced — it is reported of 20
or 25 per cent. ; and even supposing Shereef's statement that Ludha told
him not to go beyond Ujiji, but alter one month sell off all and return, to be
quite unirue, it is passing "tiange that every one of the Banian slaves em-
jiloyed stonily asserted that they were not to follow, but to force me back.
1 liad no hold on people who knew that they would not be allowed to
keep their wages. It is aLso very remarkable that the objects of your
carnvan should be so completely frustrated by Banians conniving with
Shereef almost within the shadow of the Consulate, and neither dragoman
nor other paid officials under your orders give any information. The cha-
r.icters of Ali bin Salem bin Baschid and of his chum Shereef could scarcely
have been hid from them. V\ hy employ them without characters?
" Yours Very truly,
" Davh) Livingstone.''
" P.S. — November IC, IBTl. — I regret the necessity of biingiug the fore-
going very unpleasant subject before yon, but I have jnst reeeivcil information
and letters that make the matter doubly serious. Mr. Churchill inlonned me,
by a letter of Se|)tember, 18T0, that her Majesty's tiovernmcnt luid most
kindly seat lOOOZ. for su]iplies to be forwarded tome; some difticultics had
occurred to prevent 500/. worth from starting, but in the beginning of
November all were r. moved. But yon Imd recourse to slaves again, and
one of these slaves now iiilorms mo that they remained at Ba;:amoyo four
months, or till the end of February, 18T1. No one looked near them during
that time, but a rumour reached them that the CVmsul was coming, and off
they started two days belbie your arrival, iiui on tlieir business, but on some
private trij) of your own. 'i'hese slaves came to Unyanyembe in May last,
and there they say that the war broke out in July, and gave them a goixl
excuse to be there still. A whole year has thus been spent in (easting slave;
APPENDIX.
701
on 500Z. sent by Government to me. Like the man who was tempted tc
despair when he broke the photograph of his wife, I feel inclined to relin-
quish the hope of ever getting help from Zanzibar to finish the little work
1 have still to do. I want men, not slaves, and free men are abundant in
Zanzibar ; but if the matter is committed to Ludha, instead of an energetic
Arab, with some little superintendence by your dragoman or others, I may
wait twenty years, and your slaves feast and fail."
" Dr. Livingstone to Dr. Kirk.
" Unyanyembe, February 20, 1872.
" My dear Kirk, — As I am sending by Mr. Stanley for fifty freemen
from Zanzibar to enable me to finish up my work, I beg you to favour
me with your influence with the Sultan, that he may give me an able
headman to lead them quickly here, and continue with me till 1 have
finished what I have still to do — a man of good character, willing to work
for me, and on no account to attempt to inflict (sic) any private speculation
vn my cxptdition. It is necessary to be explicit on this point; but if he
proves himself a good energetic headman, when we come into the country
where ivory is abundant 1 shall try to make it worth his while to have
come by means of my own gooils. If he has gone with a caravan previ-
ously, he will know what duties he owes to the chief of it. We shall see,
on his arrival here, by the manner in which he has obeyed Mr. Stanley's
instructions as to the donkeys and men, whether he is qualified to accompany
me further. His duty, ,as you very properly told others, is to do what he is
ordered, and see that those under him do the same, without reference to the
customs or practices of any other caravan. I wish you to hand over to
Mr. Henry M. Stanley the sum ol £500 out of the money placed in your hands
for my use by her Majesty's Government, to be laid out by him, ami you will
receive his receipt as a suiificient acknowledgment from me. He knows the
kind of men and necessaries I need, and I am sure your consular influence will
be used to hel[) him to get all I re(|uire, and a speedy de])arture of the party
inhmd. If you received two letters written hastily on the 28th of October,
1H71, as soon as I reached UJiji,one for yon and the other for Lord Clarendon,
you may have been led to employ Banian or other slaves again instead of free
men. Do not hesitate ; please at once to discharge them, no matter what
expense may have been incurred. I have given Mr. Stanley a draft on
Bombay in case ol'your havin;i spent all the money (lOCO/.) sent by (iovern-
ment. No slaves must be sent, for alt those already employed came full
of the idea that they were not to follow but force me back, and they
positively swon; (falsely, of course,) that you, the consul, had so instructed
them. 1 enclose a receipt for a pocket chronometer from the captain of
anv man-of-war who may be able and willing to lend me one without inter-
fe\ 'ift, with the navigation of his own ship; and before leaving this an<l pecu-
niary matters, 1 would just add tliat haste is of vital importance, and if any
other way of i^ettin.; money quickly suggests itself, either from Mr. Yotnis; nr
Irom my bankers, Coutts & Co., ])lrase ado])t it, and I hereby engage to refund
the whole by cheque as soon as Mr. Stanley's men reach l'nyan\ cmhe. By
pome newspajiers sent by Mr. Wehb to Mr. Staidey, I sec thnt yon are uniler
the iuipression that <;oods anil packets committed by you to Banians may
reach lljiji in about a month after delivery. 'I'lio box packed by you was
about four years in the way ; goods, and 1 sujjposo letters, were "sent by
one Hassain, and totally disappeared. Letters sent by Shercef were fourteen
703 APPENDIX.
months on the way to Ujiji ; cue packet of them was destroyed. All tlie
goods were sold off for slaves and ivory. But you were misled to cause Earl
Granville to say in the House of Lords that all ray wants had been supplied.
I need not enlarge further than give a bird's-eye view of your last supplies
through Ludha and slaves. The letters were fourteen months in the way to
Ujiji, and came only through Mr. Stanley accidentally seeing and seizing them
for me. The slaves you sent would not accompany him to Ujiji. Why
should they all have been taught not to follow me ? They told me that
they lay four months at Bagamoyo. Three bags of beads and one bale of
cloth disappeared there ; then the two headmen ran riot on the goods here.
One died of smallpox, and Athman, the survivor, broke the bolt and keys of
Mr. Stanley's store in open day, and stole his goods. Dismissed.
" I am, &c.,
" David Livingstone,
" Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa."
Dr. KiEK to Earl Gbanville.
" Zanzibar, May 9, 1872
" I HAVE the honour to report that yesterday Mr. Stanley, whose approach
I had already announced, entered Zanzibar and placed in my hands letters
from Dr. Livingstone, of which I herewith furnish copies. Dr. Livingstone
having studiously refrained from affording the smallest hint either of his past
laboiirs during the three years he has been silent, or regarding the new ex-
plorations he is about to embark on and for wliich he orders, throui^h Mr.
Stanley, a grant of fifty armed men, and authorizes an expenditure of 500^., I
must allow Mr. Stanley, who has been intrusted with the secret, to disclose it in
the way that liest suits the interests of his employer. To Mr. Stanley has
been confided the whole of Dr. Livingstone's diary and notes, with special
instructions to allow nothing to transpire here as to his route or plans ; and
letters formerly written, in which some information was given, have been sup-
pressed or lost. The balance of the Government grant of 1000/., placed by your
Lordship in Mr. Churchill's hands, havingbeen transferred at your directions to
the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition, is already at the disfwsal of Mr.
W. 0. Livingstone, who now represents that expedition, the senior members
having judiciously retired on its being known that Dr. Livingstone was safe
and within easy access at Unyanyembe, and in possession of ample stores for
the years that he still purposes remaining in the country. Mr. Stanley has
shown me the list of things now ordered through him, almost all of which are
already in the outfit of the expedition and in the hands of Mr. W. 0. Living-
stone. The expensive cotton goods and beads already packed for the journey
will therefore, in all probability, be sold, as we know they are no longer
needed by Dr. Livingstone. In the hands of the ex]icditioii there are also
tifty rifled carbines, that will render unnecessary any fresh outlay on this head
in arming the fifty men to be selected by Mr. Stanley ; in fact, slave-chains
ordered by Dr. Livingstone to be provided for the guard, to be used in case of
their refusing work, as did those whom he before had, are about the only
things not already purchased, but the conduct of the whole matter as it affects
the expedition is now in the hands of Dr. liivingstone's own son, and the
st^lection of men is jealously jilaced in Mr. Stanley's hands. Tiie party, at
Dr. l^ivingstone's exjiress request, will start off at once in light marching
order. The bulky corresjiondence I enclose shows clearly that the agent,
bhoreof Basha, intrusted to convey stores to Ujiji, did so ia the most dilatory
APPENDIX.
and dishonest manner ; but it seems that the trading speculations on the first
part of the way were chiefly carried on with goods borrowed on the coast,
which he mixed with Government stores in order to escape the cost of transit.
He arrived at Ujiji, however, with an ample store of Government goods, which,
if honestly given up, would have long sufiSced for all Dr. Livingstone's wants.
At Ujiji, thinking that Dr. Livingstone would not return from Manyema, he
made away with the most valuable, sending only a very little to the Doctor.
" The second supply forwarded, being a duplicate of the first order, has
reached Uuyanyembe. This party was first organised and sent off by Mr
Churchill, but the men slsulked on the coast until after Mr. Churchill's de-
parture from Zanzibar. Having reason to suspect that this was the case, I
first sent a consular servant and followed myself; most of the party bad
started off precipitately on heari)ig of my approach, but there remained several
loads wljich I had personally to expedite from Bagamoyo. It is however
these goods that are now in Dr. Livingstone's hands, and it was re;:ar(lii'g
them, on learning war had broken out, that I requested Mr. Staidey, who was
at Unyanyembe, to act for me in forwarding them to Dr. Livingstone. At
that time it was not known here that Mr. Stanley had gone in search of
Dr. Livingstone, for this he had carefully concealed at starting ; but finding a
white man on the spot I requested him to do what he could to push on stores
intended for a fellow-traveller. Much of Dr. Livingstone's correspondence with
this office relates to formal charges of slave-holding against several of the most
important members of the British Indian conmninity. 1 can vouch for it ttiat
each man fully understood every word written in the contract ; and further,
that these men, said to be slaves of Banians, declared themselves freed men.
That these men have turned out badly there can be no doubt ; but Mr. Stanley
tells me that he has been compelled, with his own escort under his eye, to
march them in .'^lave-chains to prevent similar disasters, and Dr. Livingstone,
in a paper in his own handwriting, orders cliains for such a use for the men
who now go up to join him. With the old athiir of the Johanna men and Dr.
Livingstone's pecuniary claim against them, 1 .shall await your Lordship's
orders ; but as Johanna is not within my jurisdiction 1 enclose the paper
relating thereto in original. 1 refrain from making any observations on the
very uncourfeous tone of these official letters, or tlie ungenerous personal in-
sinuations affecting myself and Mr. Churchill's conduct, but 1 shall be ready,
when required, to answer any point on which your Lordship may call for an
explanation. I am wlioUy at a loss to explain why Dr. Livingstone, accredited
as her Majesty's consul, should not at once have taken the strou'^est measures
to put an end to murder, slave-stealins;, and robbery, all of which, he stiy.s,
were openly carried on by Xassick boys — British jroteyes — who, if not now
part of his escort, were at least introduced into the country by him, and at the
time, in the same camp. If he, on the siiot, armed with the consular autho-
rity, after seeing what he describes, finds himself powerless to interfere, how
can ho expect justice to overtake the accused from this distance, in a region
not in any way within the power of tlie Zanzibar Sultan V"
(Extract.)
" Dr. KiBK to Earl Gbakvillk. (Received July 22.)
" Zanzibar, May 18, 1872.
" I have the honour to report that, on receipt of ct rtain intelligence that
Dr. Livingstone was at Unyanyembe, distant only thirty days' journey from
the coast, in good health, and in possession of ample supplies, but without any
710
APPENDIX.
intention of leaving Africa for the present, Lieutenant Dawson, leader of the
' Search and Relief Expedition,' determined that his services as a hydrographer
and skilled surveyor were not required. Dr. Livingstone's son still insisting on
proceeiliug to join his father and follow him, and Lieutenant Henn, under this
circumstance, thinking it hardly well to allow him to proceed alone, took
command on Lieutenant Dawson retiring. Mr. New, missionary, who had
joined the expedition here as interpreter, offered also to go, and the new party
were ready for a start when Mr. New resigned, on the ground that, after
better reflection, he could not accei^t a second position. His services were at
once disiiensed with and his resignation accepted. Lieutenant Henn, Mr.
W. 0. Livingstone, and the native guard next proceeded to the African main-
land, where the goods had already been collected under Lieutenant Dawson.
The pa)'ty was ready to start, and perhaps no expedition ever set out under
better auspices or better fitted out, when Mr. Stanley, the American news-
paper correspondent, who a J ear ago had gone olT, reached Bagan.oyo. Mr.
Stanley lost no time in assuring Lieutenant Henn that he had written orders
irom Dr. Livingstone to turn any expedition ho might meet coming up
country to him, and informed Lieutenant Henn that he and his party would
be far from welcome, and their presence only an incumbrance, as he (Mr.
Stanley) held the Doctor's own orders for a gang of men and the special
supplies he still required. On returning to Zanzibar, where it was obvious
from the tenour of Ur. Livingstone's official correspondence that he would not
welcome the arrival of any assistance unless throu:;h Mr. Stanley, his con-
fidential agent, Lieutenant Henn, necessarily retired, but Mr. W. 0. Living-
stone still persisting in his purpose to reach his father at all hazards in
conipauy with Mr. Stanley's men, the expedition stores were transferred to
his caiv. Mr. Stanley lost no time in applying for the £500 that Dr. Living-
stotie had, in a letter 1 have already sent in C'lpx', oidered me to deliver over.
1 inftnnied him that I then held no such funds, all having been some time
before made over by youi- Loidship's orders to the Search Expedition, and that
the whole responsibility of the same rested with Mr. W. 0. Livingstone. Mr.
Stanley thereupon destroj-ed a check of Dr. Livingstone for the sum of £500,
drawn on HomVjay. Mr. W. 0. Livingstone, since perusing bis father's letters,
refused to accompany Mr. Stanley's party or go to his father. He has given
Mr. Stanley all he needed in stores and money, and the American partj' left
yesterday for the coast. I shall here add, as otherwise my conduct may be
misrepresented, tiiat Mr. Stauley, in order to evade blame if his men did not
reach Unyanyembe in time, applied to me to see them started off after his
departure from Zanzibar. This was positively and at once declined, and I
informed him that I could not, after what Dr. I^ivingstone ha<l done ami said,
act in any but an official capacity. Mr. W. O. Livingstone has sold off here
the surplus stores of the expedition and will render his accounts to the lloyal
Geographical Society."
From the above we see that Dr. Livingstone writes a formal com-
plaint to Dr. Kirk, and, of coiu-so, is obliged to adibcss his friend by
the formal term of " Sir." He then goes on 'to relate the results of
the several caravans sent to him from Zanzibar, and in a postscript
confesses that ho regrets the necessity of writing upon au unpleasant
subject.
In the letters of Dr. Kirk, which evidently show that he resents
the complaint, we find him retaliating with the following chargea
against Dr. Livingstone and myself:
APPENDIX.
711
1st. Dr. Livingstone has "studiously" refrained from affording the
smallest hint either of his past labours during the three years he has
been silent, or regarding his new explorations.
2nd. IVIr, Stanley has special instructions to allow nothing to trans-
pire here as to his (future) route or plans.
3rd. Letters formerly written in which some information was given
have been suppressed or lost.
4th. Mr. Stanley has been compelled to march his men in slave
chains to prevent similar disasters from those which Dr. Livingstone
has suffered.
5th. Dr. Livingstone, in a paper in his owti handwriting, orders
chains for such a use (to prevent disasters) for the men who now go
up to join him.
6th. The tone of the official letters of Dr. Livingstone are un-
courteous, and the personal insinuations affecting myself and Mr.
Churchill's conduct are ungenerous.
7th. I wonder that Dr. Livingstone, armed with the consular
authority, finds himself powerless to interfere to put an end to murder,
slave-stealing, and robbery, openly carried on by Nassick boys —
British protegh.
8th. Mr. Stanley lost no time in assm-ing Lieutenant Hcnn that ho
had written orders from Dr. Livingstone to turn any expedition ho
might meet coming up country to him.
9th. It is obvious, from the tenor of Dr. Livingstone's official cor-
respondence, that he would not welcome the arrival of any assistance
unless through Mr. Stanley, his confidential agent.
10th. Mr. W. O. Livingst(me, since perusing his father's letters,
refused to accompany Mr. Stanley's party or to go to his father.
Since Dr. Livingstone is absent, and as I can answer the above
charges as well as if he were in England himself, and as I am in-
volved in s(mic of the statements and charges made, it is my fluty to
explain them as correctly as possible. My replies will bo made in the
same order as the statements are made.
Ist. Dr. Livingstone has not studiously refrained from affording
clues to his futme plans or his piist labours. Time and time again
he wrote letters — copies of which 1 have seen iu Lis diary — detailing
his discoveries.
2n(l. Mr. Stanley never received special instructions to allow
nothing to transpire as to Dr. Jjivingstone's future roiito or plans,
either from Dr. Living.st(me or IMr. lU imett, a proof of which is that,
when the correspondent of the Dalhj Tclcijraph came to me at Marseilles
for information, I freely gave it to him.
3rd. Letters with information from Dr. Livingstone to Dr. Kirk
712
APPENDIX.
and Lord Clarendon, written soon after his arrival in Ujiji, were sent
by couriers to Unyanyembe and received by Sayd bin Salim. They
were subsequently " suppressed or lost " between Sayd bin Salim at
Unyanyembe and the British Consulate at Zanzibar while I was
travelling with Dr. Livingstone from Ujiji to Unyanyembe.
4th. I was only compelled to march the few refractory and deserters
in chains — men who constantly endangered my Expedition by leaving
the property on the road, or by mutiny.
5th. Dr. Livingtone, according to my suggestions, promised to try
the moral effect of a chain on the refractory and deserters, as I had
done. Some means of punishment are as necessary in Central Africa
for the incori'igible as prisons in civilised lands.
6th. The tone of the letters of Dr. Livingstone are not uncourteous.
Discourtesy was never intended ; they are mere formal complaints.
7th. Dr. Livingstone, armed even with despotic and royal authority,
unless he had means to enforce it, would be as powerless as with only
consular authority. He could not punish the British proteges with
capital punishment or imprisonment in the wilds of Central Africa
were he armed with the authority of all the civilized nations, unless
he had means to enforce that sublime authority. He could only
dismiss the miscreants.
8th. I advise readers to read the chapter entitled " Valedictory."
9th. It is not obvious, from the tenor of Dr. Livingtone's ofiBcial
letters to Dr. Kirk, that he would not welcome any assistance unless
through Mr. Stanley. Dr. Livingstone was not aware that the British
public was organising assistance for him. Li the absence of this
knowledge he requested me to do the best I could for him ; but the
men and stores such as he said he required were sent to him from
Zanzibar wholly from English support.
10th. Mr. W. 0. Livingstone, since perusing his father's letters, did
not " refuse to accompany Mr. Stanley's party or to go to his father."
Mr. Livingstone merely withdrew according to the friendly and
medical advice given to him by Dr. Kirk, that in the then poor state of
his health, it would have been extremely unwise, if not dangerous, for
him to attempt reachiug Unyanyembe during the worst monsoon that
ever visited East Africa.
I conclude with the hope that when Dr. Livingstone returns, tho
feeling which Dr. Kirk seems to entrrtuin for him now will bo replaced
by one more courteous and forbearing, which will tend to re-establish
the friendly intimacy that formerly characterised tho intercourse be-
tween these two old friends when they travelled and lived together in
the regions of the Zambezi and Nyassa Lake. On Dr. Livingstone's
side I think I may promise a cheery and hearty response to this sonti-
APPENDIX.
T13
ment. As for myself, nothing would delight me more than to see a
general shake-hands all round. Dr. Livingstone is well aware of the
sentiments I entertain for him, and Dr. Kirk may rest assured that I
have a sincere admiration for himself.
The following is the very latest intelligence (received at the Foreign
Office on the 19th of October last past) from Dr. Livingstone, and
goes to prove precisely what I have stated, that he meant no
discourtesy to Dr. Kirk, or to attack his conduct, and that I judged
his feelings correctly in the preceding paragraph.
Dr. Livingstone to Loud Granville.
" Unyanyembe, July Ist, 1872.
" My Lord, — It is necessary to recall to memory that I was sub-
jected to very great inconvenience by the employment of slaves instead
of freemen. It caused me the loss of quite two years of time, inflicted
1,800 or 2,000 miles of useless marching, imminent risk of violent
death four several times, and how much money I cannot tell. Certain
Banians, Indian British subjects, headed by one Ludha Damji, seem
to have palmed oS their slaves on us at more than double freemen's
pay, and all the slaves were imbued with the idea that they were not
to follow, but to force me back. By the money and goods of these
Banians nearly all the slave trade of this region is carried on. They
employed dishonest agents to conduct the caravans, and tliis has led
to my being plundered four several times. No trader is thus robbed.
I sent a complaint of this to Dr. Kii-k, and in my letter of the 14th of
November last I enclosed a copy, in the hope that, if necessary, his
hands might be strengthened by the Foreign Office in administering
justice, and I was in hopes that ho would take action in the matter
promptly ; because the Banians and their dishonest agent, Shereef,
placed a private trade speculation between Dr. Kirk and me, and wo
were unwittingly led into employing slaves, though wo all objected to
Captain Fraser doing the same on his sugar estate. I regret very
much to hear incidentally that Dr. Kirk viewed my formal complaint
against Banians as a covert attack upon himself. If I had foreseen
this, I should certainly have borne all my losses in silence. I never
had any difference with him, though wo were together for years, and
I had no intention to give offence now. But the public interest taken
in this expedition enforces publicity as to the oVstaclos that i)revente(l
its work being accomplished long ago*. I represented the Banians and
their agents as the cause of all my losses, and tliat tlio Governor hero
is their chief trade agent. This receives confirniati<m by the fact that
Shcrocf, and all the first gang of slaves, are now living comfortably
714
APPENDIX.
with him at Mfutu, a village about twelve miles distant from the spot
at which I write.
" Having, as I mentioned in my above letter, abundant supplies to
enable me in a short time to make a feasible finish-up of my work, and
the first and second gangs of slaves having proved so very unsatisfac-
tory, I felt extremely anxious that no more should come, and requested
Mr. Stanley to hire fifty freemen at Zanzibar ; and should he
meet a party of slaves coming, by all means to send them back, no
matter what expense had been incurred. I would cheerfully pay it
all. I had no idea that this would lead to the stoppage of an English
expedition sent in the utmost kindness to my aid. I am, really and
truly, profoundly grateful for the generous effort of my noble coun-
trymen, and deeply regret that my precaution against another expe-
dition of slaves should have damped the self-denying zeal of gentlemen
who have not a particle of the slave spirit in them. As I shall now
explain, but little good could have bceu done in the direction in which
I propose to go ; but had we a telegraiA, or even a penny post, I
should have advised work in another direction that would have jjleased
the Council.
" A war has been going on here for the last twelve months. . It
resembles one of our own Caffre wars in miniature, but it enriches no
one. All trade is stopped, and there is a general lawlessness all over
the country. I propose to avoid this confusion by going southwards
to Fipa, then round the south end of Tanganyika, and crossing the
Chambeze, proceed west along the shore of Lake Bangweolo. Being
then in latitude 12 degrees south, I Avish to go straight west to the
ancient fountains reported at that end of the watershed, then turn
north to the copper mines of Katanga, which are only about ten days
Bouth-west of the underground excavations. Returning thence to
Katanga, twelve days south- south-west leads to the head of Lake
Lincoln. Arrived there, I shall devoutly thank Providence and
retii-e along Lake Kaniolondo towards Ujiji and home. By this trip
I hope to make up for the loss of groimd caused by the slaves. I was
forced back from near the confluence of the Lomame with Webb's
Lualaba. Lomame is the prolongation of Lake Lincoln into the <
lacustrine central line of di-ainage — Webb's Lualaba. The route in-
dicated utilizes my return tramp by going round outside, or say south,
about all the sources together, and this, going back tlirough Manyuema
to take up the thread»of exploration, would not do. It also takes me
outside the area of the Ujijian or mainland slaving and bloodshed,
which the Manyuema are leaming to revenge. If I retired now, as I
wisli witli all niy heart I could do with honour, I should bo conscious
of Laving left the discovery of the somccs unfinished, and that soon
APPENDIX. 715
some one else would come and show the hollowness of my claim, and
worse than that by far, the Banians and their agents, who I believe
conspired to baffle me, would virtually have success in their design.
I already know many of the people among whom I go as quite
friendly, because I travelled extensively in that quarter in eliminating
the error into which I was led by the Chambeze being called, by the
Portuguese and others, the Zambesi. I should very mucli like to
visit the Basafigo, who are near my route ; but I restrict myself to six
or eight months to undo the losses I sustained. About five genera-
tions ago, a white man came to the highlands of Basafigo, which are
in a line east of the watershed. He had six attendants, who all died,
and eventually their head man, called Charura, was elected chief by
the Basafigo. In the third generation he had sixty able-bodied spear-
men as lineal descendants. This imjDlies an equal number of tlie
other sex. They are very light in 'colour, and easily known, as no
one is allowed to wear coral beads such as Charura brought except
the Royal family. A book he brought was lost only lately. The
interest of the case lies in its connection with Mr. Darwin's celebrated
theory on the 'origin of species,' for it shows that an improved variety,
as we wliites modestly call ourselves, is not so liable to be swamped
by nujnbers as some have thought.
"Two Mazitu chiefs live near tlie route. I would fain call and
obtain immunity for Englishmen such as has been awarded to the
Arabs of Seyed IVIajid, but I am at present much too rich to go among
thieves. At other times I could have gone safely, because, to use a
Scotch proverb, 'No one can take the breeks of a Highlander.' With
ordinary success I hope to be back at Ujiji eight mouths hence. If
any one doubts the wisdom of my decision, or suspects me of want of
love to my family in making this liual trip, I can confidently appeal
for approbation to the Council of the Royal Geographical Society as
thorouglily understanding the subject.
"Had it been possible for me to know of the coming of the late
Search Expedition, I should certainly have made use of it as a branch
expedition to explore Lake Victoria, for which the naval- officers
selected were no doubt perfectly adapted. The skeleton of a boat
left here by Mr. Stanley would liave served tlieir purpose, and they
woiild have had all the merit of independent exploration and success.
I travelled for a considerable time in company with three intelligent
Sanheli, who liad lived three, six, and nine years respectively in the
country east of the Victoria Lake, there called Okara, but on tliis side
Mkara. They described three or four lakes, only .one of whicli sends
its waters to the north. Okara seems to be Lake Victoria i)roper ;
ttbout its middle it gives off an arm eastwards called Kidette, in
716
APPENDIX.
whicli many weirs are set and many fish caught. It is three days in
length by canoe, and joins Lake Kavirondo, which may not deserve
to be called a lake, but only an arm of Okara. Yery dark people
live on it, and have cattle. The Masai are further east. J'o the
south-east of Kavirondo stands Lake Neibash, or Neybash; they
travelled along its southern bank for three days, and thence saw
Mount Kilimanjaro, also in the south-east ; it had no outlet. Away
far to the north of Kavirondo they described Lake Bariiigo (not Bahr
Ngo). A river or rivulet, called Ngare na Eogwa, flows into it from
the south or south-east. Its name signifies that it is brackish.
Bariiigo gives forth a river to the north-east, called Ngardabash.
The land east and north of Baringo is called Burukineggo, and
Gallahs with camels and horses are reported ; but my informants did
not see them. I give their information only for what it may be
worth ; their object was plunder, and they could scarcely be mistaken
as to the number of lakes where we suppose there is only one.
The Okara, or Lake Victoria proper, is the largest, and has many very
large islands in it. I have not the faintest wish to go near it, either
now or at any future time. In performing my one work I desire to
do it well, and I think that I may lay claim to some perseverance.
Yet if ordered to go anywhere else, I should certainly plead ' severe
indisposition,' or ' urgent private afiairs.' I have been reported as
living among the Arabs as one of themselves ; that only means that I
am on good terms with them all. They often call me the ' Christian,
and I never swerved from that character in any one respect.
" An original plan of getting the longitude, which I submit to
Sir Thomas Maclear, of the lioyal Observatory at the Cape, gives
27 degrees cast as the longitude of the great river Lualaba, in latitude
4 degrees 9 minutes south. It runs between 26 degrees and 27 degrees
east, and is therefore not so far west as my reckoning— carried on
without watch, through dense forests and gigantic grasses — made it.
It is thus less likely to bo the Congo, and I ought to meet Baker on
it. In reference to the ancient fountains, I already know the four
rivers that unquestionably do arise near or on the western end of the
watershed. Mr. Oswell and 1 were told, about 1851, that the KafUB
and Liambai (Upper Zambesi) arose at one spot, though wo were then
some three hundred miles distant. The two rivers Lomamo and
Lufira come from the same quarter; the only point that remains
doubtful is the distances of their fountain heads, and this I am very
anxious to ascertain. I send astronomical observations and a sketch-
map to Sir 'i homas Maclear by a native. Tho map is very imperfect,
from want of conveniences for traciii^^, and no position is to bo con-
sidered settled or published until it is recalculated at tho Obsorvatorj.
APPENDIX.
717
" There is a good deal of risk in so doing, but not so mncli danger
as if I intrusted it to my friend the Governor, A former sketch-map,
a multitude of astronomical observations, and nearly all my letters,
always disappeared here ; but it is better that they run the risk in
the hand of a native than go with me over waters innumerable. The
fear of losing my journal altogether led me to intrust it to Mr. Stanley
to be kept by my daughter till I return, and I hope it has arrived
safely. I am waiting here only till my fifty men arrive. The natural
anxiety I feel for the safety of my son Oswell coming through the
feverish districts between this cold highland and the coast would have
been threefold increased had the naval gentlemen come.
" In conclusion, let me beg your lordship to offer my very warmest
thanks to them, to the Council and Fellows of the Eoyal Geographical
Society, and to all who kindly contributed in any way towards se-
curing my safety. I really feel that no one in this world ought to
fee more deeply grateful than your most obedient servant,
" David Livingstone,
** Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa."
CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
The following correspondence, and especially the last letter, which
was accompanied hj a beautiful and valuable gold snuff-box set with
brilliants, will be treasured by me as among the pleasantest results
of my undertaking.
H. M. S.
" Foreiom Office, August 1.
' Sir, — I am directed by Earl Granville to acknowledge the receipt of a
] acket containing letters and despatches from Dr. Livingstone, which j'ou were
good enough to deliver to her Majesty's ambassador at Paris for transmission
to this department ; and 1 am to convey to you his Lordship's thanks for
taking charge of these interesting documents.
" I am. Sir,
" Your most obedient humble servant,
" Ekfield."
" Henby M. Stanley, Esq., New York Herald Bureau,
" 46, Fleet Street, London."
" London, August 2.
" Hekry M. Stanley, Esq., has banded tome to-day the diary of Dr. Living-
stone, my father, scaled and signed by my father, with instructions written on
the outside, signed by my fatiier, for the care of which, and for all his actions
concerning and to my father, our very best thanks are due. We have not the
slightest reason to doubt that this is my lather's journal, and I certify that the
letters he Las brought home are my father's letters, and no others.
" Tom S. Livingstone."
" August 2, 1S72.
" Sir, — I was not aware until you mentioned it that there was any doubt as
to the authenticity of Dr. Livingstone's despatches, which you delivered to
Lord Lyons on the 31st of July. But, in consequence of what you said 1
have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. Hammond, the under-
Rccrctary of the P'orcign (.Jflice, and Mr. WyUle, the head of the Consular and
Slave Trade Department, liave not the slightest doubt as to the genuineness of
the papers which have been received from Lord Lyons, and which are being
APPENDIX.
719
'* I cannot omit this opportunity of expressing to you my admiration of the
qualities which have enabled you to achieve the object of your mission, and to
attain a result which has beea hailed with so much enthusiasm both in the
United States and in this country.
" I am, Sir,
" Your obedient,
" Granville."
" Heney Stanley, Esq."
" Foreign Office, Angiist 27.
" Sir, — I have great satisfaction in conveying to you, by command of the
Queen, her Majesty's high ajipreciation of the prudence and zeal which you
have displayed in opening a communication with Dr. Livingstone, and relieving
her Majesty from the anxiety which, in common with her subjects, she had
felt in regard to the fate of that distinguished traveller. •
" The Queen desires me to exjjress her thanks for the service yOu have
thus rendered, together with her Majesty's congratulations on your having so
successfully carried on the mission which you fearlessly undertook. Her
Majesty also desires mc to request your acceptance of the memorial which
accompanies this letter.
" I am, Sir,
" Your most obedient humble servant,
" GnANVILLE."
THE HF.MOBIAU
GLOSSARY.
Boma. • . enclosure.
Bubu . . . black beads.
Diwan . . elder, chief, or magistrate.
Doti . . . four yards of cloth.
Dowa. . • medicine.
Fundo . • ten necklaces, or ten khetes.
Ghulabio . . a species of bead.
Hafdo . . a species of bead.
Hamal . . carrier.
Honga , . tribute.
Ismahili . , a native name for a particular kind of cloth.
Kadunguru . . a brick-colored species of bead.
Kaif-Halek . . " How do you do ?"
Kaniki , .a blue cloth manufactured in India.
Kharabi . . camp.
Khote . . one necklace, or a tenth of a fundo.
Kichuma-chuma . " Little Irons," a disease of the liver.
Kirangozi . . guide,
Eitambi • .a cloth.
Eiti . . . stool
Lakhio . .a pink-colorcd species of bead.
Lunghio . . blue beads.
Lunghio mbamba. small blue beads.
Lunghio roga . large bluo beads. ^
BI . . .a prefix to denote a person of any country; such
as M-jiji, a native of JijL
3 A
722 APPENDIX.
Manyapara . . elder, or eub-cliief.
Matama . , Holcus sorghum, or the Arabic dourra.
Mbcmbu . . forest peach.
Merikani . , unbleached domestics manufactured in America.
Mganga , . a medicine man, or magic doctor.
Miezi-Mungu . a Kisawahili term for " God."
Mtemi . , a term synonymous with king.
Mtoni. , , nullah.
Muhongo , . tribute.
Mulungu . , a native term for " Grod."
Mukungui'U . Lutermitteut fever.
Mvuha • • thunder.
Ngombe . .a cow.
Pagazi . .a porter, or carrier.
Posho , , food.
Sami-Sami . , the name of red beads,
Shamba . . a field.
Shash , .a muslin cloth.
Sheikh . • a title of courtesy given to an elderly man
Shukka . . two yards of cloth .
Sobari , . a kind of colored cloth.
Sungomazzi , large glass or china beads of the size of marbles.
Toujiii . . the name for a particular kind of cloth.
U . • .a prefix to denote the country: thus U-jiji sig-
nifies the couiitry of Jiji.
f Uganga . . medicine.
Wa- , • .a prefix to denote persons : thus Wa-jiji would
signify people of Jiji.
Washensi • • a term of contempt applied to the natives.
Yambo . . " How are you '
Ziwa . . .a pool, or laka
Ziwani . • a pond.
INDEX.
AMul Kader, tailor of the Expedi-
tion, 67, 216 ; retirement of, 318
Abdullah bin Nasib, 1C5
Acacia horrida, 203
African brid:^es, 125
Ali bin Saliiii, 45, 47, 49
Aloes, 525
Anibari, 345, 349
Anicr bin Sultan, type of an old Arab
Sheikh, 219
Amram bin Mussood, 271
Anderson, Mr., on the failure to reach
Lake Ngarai, G87
Animals, domesticated, of Central
Africa, 529
Ant-hills, remarkable, 362
Ants, white, dustructivcness of, 170
Arabs, antipathy to, as slave-traders,
in Alrica, 461
Aranselar, chief butler of the Expedi-
tion, 67 ; his desperate expedient
to cscajie service, 68
Asmani, giant stature of, 306, 348;
liis murderous dei)ortn)ent, 344
Austin, Dr., of London, 100
Eaba (Father), term of courtesy in
addressin;^ elderly persons, 597
Balxwns, Wanderoo, 527 ; dog-faced,
528
Bagamoyo, French Mission Station
at, 20, 43 ; life at, 41 ; climate of,
66
— to Unyanyembe, distance of, 224
Bambarre, ivory d^pot, 450
Baua Mkuba, the " Big Master," 70
Bangwe Island, 479
Bangweolo Lake, 448
Banyans, 4 ; keen trading of, 6 ; their
inlluence on African trade, 7
Baobab, fruit of the, 175
Baruti, one of Speke's Faithfuls, death
of, 302
Beads as currency in the interior, 23
Bees, attack of, on the caravan, 595
Beke, Dr., dogmatism of, 468, 685
Beinba, wooded hills of, 480
Bennet, Mr. James Gordon, 424 ;
Letter to, from Dr. Livin;j;stone,
617 ; generous act of, in respect to
Dr. Livingstone's kttcis, 679
Benta forest, 324
Bihawana, 182
Bi^ari, cluster of villages, 489
Birds of Central Africa, 530
" Bombay," or Mombay, 28, 30, 314,
345, 487
Boniboma's village, 277
Uonissus Jlabelli/ormi.i, or Palmyra
palm, 142
Brooks, Dr., 679
BuUalo gnats, 354
herd, 376
Bunder Sala;im, cook of the Exi)cdi-
tion, 67
Burial ceremonies, 302
Burton, Cajit., ' Lake Itogions of Cen-
tral Africa/ 1 ; his map of rcjjion
724
INDEX.
of Bagamoyo, a blanV, 83 ; expe-
rience of Banyans, 91 ; dread of
fever by, 93 ; 517, 519
Bustard, 337
Cacti, 525
Cazembe, King, 444 ; Ids Queen and
her Amazons, 445
Chamati Hill, 505
Chambezi, drainage of, 427
, Livingstone's difficulty about
the, 446
" Charley's " lodging-house at Zan-
zibar, kindly spirit of its land-
lord, 3
Chowpereh, Mgwana soldier, 152,
348
Christie, Dr., physician to Seyd Bur-
ghash, 68, 662
Chufwa fly, 90
Chuma, Dr. Livingstone's servant,
409
Cloth as currency in the interior, 23
'Columbine,' H.M.S., 64
Comoriues, 9
Cooley, Mr., his unwillingness to give
up a pet theory, 468, 517
Corn-j;rinding women of Kisemo,106
Crocodile, narrow escape of the author
from, 339
Customs, curious, of the Wanya-
mwezi, 544
Dahomey, King of, 19 »
' Daily Telegraph,' representative of,
at Aden, 679
Dar Salaam, port of, 225
Dawson, Lieut., visit from, con-
versation as to his resigning com-
mand of the Search Expedition,
660 ; misapprehension as to the
author's feelings towards him, 678 ;
justification of Lis action in regard
to the !;^earch and llelief Expe-
dition, 689
Deity, notions of natives as tu, 515
Dhows, 2
Diliuiu i'caks. 94, 2bS
Diseases common to the natives, 533
Dogara, or whitebait, 473, 533
Donkeys, equipment of, 26; fine
breed of, in Ubanarama, 212
'* Dowa," medicine, 86
Earwigs, plague, of at Mpwapwa, 169
Elephantiasis common in Zanzibar,
148
Elephants, herd of, 358 ; difficulty of
shooting, 582
Emancipation Proclamation of Abra-
ham Lincoln, 451
English press, misconceptions and
inaccuracies of, 630
Esau, Jemadar, 42
Farquhar, W. L., 26, 39, 67, 145, 156,
157 ; his death, 291 ; account of,
639
Faulkner, Mr., incredible statements
of, 582
Fauna of Central Africa, 527
Ferajji, 350
Fire-arms, what most suitable to the
traveller, 62
Fish of the Tanganika, 530
Fish-eagle, 337
Food of the Arab tribes, 526; of
Central Africa, 550
Forest peach, 356
Forest scenery of Unyamwezi, 322 ;
sublime aspect of, 520
Foreign Office, letters from, 616
Franklyn, Mr. Hales, 679
Eraser, Capt., 18, 662, 663
Frciligrath's description of the lion's
habitat, 368
French IMissionaries, practical cha-
racter of, 20; Mission Station at
Bagamoyo, 20, 43
Fruit-trees, 526
Galton, Mr. F., his designation of the
author's defence of Dr. Living-
stone as a sensational story, 468
684 ; his failure to reach Lake
Kganii, 688
Girallcs, difficulty of killing, 590
INDEX.
725
Glossiva morsitans, or tsetse fly,
87-90
Great Makata River, 230
Goma Pass, 151
Gombe Rivers, North and Sonth, 521
Grant, Col., 685
Granville, Lord, letter from, convey-
ing the thanks of Queen Victoria
and the announcement of the Royal
present, 716
Goodhue, Mr., or " Bana Mkuba," 39,
70
Guinea palm, 524 •
Haematite, 353
Half-castes, contemptible character
of, 6
Halimah, Dr. Livingstone's cook,
417
Hassan, the Mseguhha, 355 ^
Henn, Lieut., his meeting with the
author, 653 ; resigns the leader-
ship, 664
Herembe, Cape, 574
Herodotus, his account of the Nile
sources, 455
Hindis, ilohammedan, cheating cha-
racter of, 8
Hippopotami, 571
Honey-bird, 337 ; habits of, 353
Hon'.'a, or tribute, 55, 395
Homer, Pere, 65
Hosmer, Dr., 679
Hunter's Paradise, the, 336
Hyasnas, 191, 528
Ibrahim bin Rashid slain, 293
Imbiki, 101
Insects of Central Africa, 530
Itage village, 373
Jackals, 528
Jackson, Gen. Andrew, advice of, 374
Jako, employ^ of the Expedition, 67,
165
Jesuit Missyn at Bagamoyo, 20, 43
Jiwcb la SiTiga district, 209
Johari, dragoman, 27, 37 ; engaged to
conduct the caravan conveying
stores to Dr. Livingstone as far as
the Kingani, 666
Jumah, 349
Jungle of Msuwa, its horrors, 648
Kabogi, Cape, 511
Kabogo Mountain, singular pheno-
menon of, 400
Kadetamare,or Misonghi, village, 144;
favourable situation of, as mission
field, 234
Kahirigi, boma of, 394
Kaif-Halek or " How-do-ye-do," tlie
letter-carrier, 317
Kalulu, the boy-slave, 303, 352
Kamolondo Lake, 450
Kamyenyi, 635
Kanengi River, 394, 397
Kaniyaga village, 630
Kanjee, 60
Kanyamabengu River, 507
Kanyenyi, 190
Kaole village, 225
Kaseh, a myth, 260
Kasera ridge, 364
Katanga, copper mines of, 464
Katangara Islands, 506
Kavimba, 507
Kema Kaguru Mountains, 231
Kharais bin Abdullah, 267 ; his death,
293
Khamisi, desertion of, 101 ; his nar-
row escape, 107 ; flogged for deser-
tion, 108; precis of chaiacter, 319
Khonze, remarkable globes of foliage
at, 633
Kiala, chief, 381
Kibwc, Mount, 245
Kigoma Bay, 479
Kigondo, chief, 137
Kigwa, 220
Kigwena River, 488
Kikoka village, 81, 82
Kikuma River, 488
Kihv.i, port of, 225
Kingani River, 78, 81 ; area drained
by, 226 ; Valley, 77
726
INDEX.
Kingaru village, 94
Kiagwere, the canoe paddler, 79
Kiora village, 144 ; Peak, 110, 112
Kirk, Dr., Mr. Stanley's introduction
to, 12 ; his nonchalance in regard
to Dr. Livingstone, 14; deprecia-
tory remarks, 15 ; his interview
with Speke's "Faithfuls," 28;
tardy visit to Bagamoyo in refer-
ence to the " Livingstone caravan,"
64 ; wish that the author should
explore the Eufiji route, 83 ; objec-
tion to horses in the interior, 99 ;
congratulates the author on his
success, 662 ; decides as to the sale
of part of the stores for Livingstone,
664 ; advises Mr. O. Livingstone not
to go on to his father, 673 ; letter
to the author on securing an effi-
cient leader from Seyd Burghash,
674 ; his refusal to act for Dr. Li-
vintrstone except in an official ca-
pacity, 675
Kirondo, chief, 569
Kirurumo village, 209
Kisabengo, chief, a minor Theodore,
116
Kiscmo village, 104 ; belles of, 105
Kisuka village, 495
Kisigo Pviver, 235
Kisunwe liiver, 488
Kitanda or bedstead, 85
Kiti defile, 203
Kitunda Cape, 486
Kiwyeh, Sultan of, 198 ; village, 630;
population of, 631
Kiwrima Valley, 113
Kolquall or candelabra tree, 161,
524 _
Kotiduchi village, 225
Krai)f and Kebiuan, Messrs., 516
Kudu, 311
Kukuinba Point, 508
Kulabi, 639
Kusuri or Konsuli, 209
Kwnla or North Gombc Pviver, 521
Kwala Mtoiii, 216
Kwikurkura, 201
Ladies' tea-parties, early origin
546.
Lares and Penates of the Wazavira,
367
Leopard of Central Africa, 528
Letter of Shaw, 145 ; of Farquhar,
146
Leukole, chief, 164; his account of
Farquhar's death, 639
Liemba, Lake, 447
Limestone, pisolitic, 521
Lincoln, Abraham, lake named after,
by Livingstone, 451
Lion and leopard, home of the, Freilig-
rath's description of, 368 <
Lion of Central Africa, 528
Little Makata River, 230
Liuche, valley of the, 407
" Livingstone Cottage " at Mah^ (Sey-
chelles), happy intercourse at, 679
Livingstone, Dr., the author's first
interview with, at Ujiji, 412 ; his
anxiety for news, 414 ; the low ebb
of his resources, 418; his early
• rising, 422 ; took the author for an
emissary of the French Govern-
ment, 423 ; his hard fare, 424 ;
his sufferings and privatioi\s, 425 ;
revival of his enthusin.sm, 427 ; his
guileless character, 428 ? his phy-
sical appearance, 429 ; absurd re-
port of his marriage, his general
character and careful observations,
430; sensitiveness of criticism, 431,
amiable traits of his character, and
his Spartan hei oism, 432; his high
spirits, inexhaustible humour, and
retentive memory, 433; sincerity
of his religion, 434 ; his Sunday
services, 435 ; ability to withstand
the African climate duo to his tem-
perate life, 435 ; his determination
to complete his task, spite of all
difliculties, 436 ; completeness of
his discoveries, 437 ; summary of
his experiences, 438 ; interview
with King Cazcmbo, 444; diffi-
culty as to the Chambczi, 447
INDEX.
727
discovery of Lalce Liemba, 447;
investigation of the Lnapula, 448 :
intervention in behalf of Mahomed
bin Sali repaid by base ingrati-
tude, 448 ; exploration of Uguhha,
449; sufferings at Bam\»arre, dis-
covery of the Lualaba, description
of the beauties of Moero scenery,
450 ; admiration of Abraham Lin-
coln, 451 ; his belief that the I-ua-
laba or Webb's Eiver is the true
Nile, 452 ; his admission that the
Nile sources have not been found,
454 ; his opinion as to the account
of Herodotus, 455; thwarted by
the cowardice of his men, 464 ;
return to Ujiji, dishonesty of Sherif,
465; destitute condition of the
Doctor, his complaint of the Zan-
zibar people not sending him free-
men, 466; his objection tcr the
" doctoring " of his despatches at
home, 467 ; his relations with the
Boyal Geographical Society, 469-
471 ; improvement of his health from
more generous diet, contemplated
cruise on the Tanganika, 472 ; start
from Ujiji, 479 ; liability to diar-
rhoea, 483 ; manner of dealing with
demands for honga, 486; loss of
stores, &c., from Bombay's intoxi-
cation, 487 ; his unwillingness to
retaliate on the hostile natives,
490; his tenderness in sickness,
497 ; disturbed in bed by his ser-
vant Susi in a state of intoxication,
498 ; his opinion that the Tanga-
nika must have an outlet, 505;
names the Kavunvweh islands the
"New York Herald Islets," 510;
his coolness at the hostility of the
AVasansi, 512; calms them down
by his gentle bearing and conver-
sation, 513 ; his resolve to finish
his task, 560; complaint of Dr.
Kirk's sending only slaves, 561 ;
resolves to accompany the author
to Unyanyembo, 562; his suffer-
ings on the road, 587 ; atMpokwa's
village, 588 ; his value as a travel-
ling companion, 590 ; stung by wild
bees, 596 ; his qualifications as a
traveller, 599 ; peaceful recollections
of his wife's grave, his relation of
incidents of the life of his son Ro-
bert, 601 ; arrival at Ugiindo, 604 ;
letters from Dr. Kirk and home, 605;
welcome to Unyanyembe, 607 ; i"
comfortable quarters and in pos
session of stores, 608 ; wreck of the
stores detained by Sayd bin Salim,
612; in possession of four years'
store of supplies, 613 ; his letter to
Mr. Bennett, jun., 616; probable
results of his perseverance in Afri-
can discovery, 619 ; his last day
with the author, 622; his inten-
tions as to the future, 626 ; the
parting farewell, 627 ; instructions
to turn back any slave caravan sent
to his relief, 663
, Mr. Oswald, introduction to,
655 ; equipment of his proposed ex-
pedition, 672 ; determines to resign,
by Dr. Kirk's advice, 673
, Robert Moffatt, incidents of his
life, 601
, Mr. T. S., testimony of, to the
genuineness of the Despatches from
his father, 615
Lizard, large, 482
Loajeri River, 536
Loeki or Lomani River, 451
Lualaba or " Webb's River" of Liv-
ingstone, 450 ; thought by him to
be the true Nile, 452
Luapula River, 448
Lubilash River, 452
Ludha I'amji, 37
Lufira River, 451
Luliaiiga I'uak, 493
Lukomo village, 388
Luvumba Cajx), 511
Mabruki, cruel treatment of, 29 ; 347
728
INDEX.
Mabnngura Nullah, 205 ; River,
233
Madcdita, 213
Magala, Mutware of, 494
Maganga, 86, 94, 100
Magunda ilkali, 204
Mahommed bia Sali, his release by
Livingstone and subsequent in-
gratitude, 448
Maizun, Mens., 637
Makata Valley, 127 ; Elver, 136, 645 ;
Plain, 641
Makololo race, extinction of, 542
Makumbi, chief, 385 "
Malagash Inlet, 16, 17
Malagarazi Eiver, 381, 537
Manyuema country, people of, 459 ;
the El Dorado of the Arabs, 460 ;
sought as slaves, 464
■ tribe, clever weapon manufac-
turers, 557
JIapanga, 635
Marefu, 355
Marenga Mkali, 162, 172, 638.
Masangi, 277
JIasika, or rainy season, 46, 95, 123,
138, 640
Matamombo, 162
Mazitu, marauding propensities of,
444
Mbawala, species of antelope, 366
Mbembu, or forest peach, 356, 375
MbengereUga River, 230
Mbegu-tree, 523
Mdaburu River, 233, 630
Medical appliances used by the na-
tives, 534
Medicine for daubing warriors, 280
Metals known to the tribes of Central
Africa, 533
Mfuto, Eastern, 278
Mganga, medicine-man of Unya-
mwezi, 543
Mgongo Tcmbo, or " Elephant's
Back," 211
Mcovana, 107
Mikiseh, 113
Mionvu, Mutwaro of Kimenyi, 388
Mirambo, 280; defeated at Mfulo,
304
Misonghi, deserted villagp, 366
Mizanza, 191
Mkambaku range of Speke, 226
Mkora tree, 523
MkurongoVee, 523
Mkuti River, 404
Mkuyu, gigantic sycamore, 327
Moero Lake, 447; beauty of the
scenery, 450
Mohammed bin AbduUa slain, 293
Mohammed bin Gharib, 570
Monkeys, troop of, 370
Morris, Hon. E, J., 79
Mpokwa River, 367
Mponda, chief, 441
Mpwapwa, its fruitfulness, 163;
Mountains, 154, 166
Mrera, chief, 358
— , warriors of, 359
Mrima, portion of country so called,
224
Msagara, youthful, the heau-ideal of
African savage, 248
Msuwa, 102
Mtamba sycamore, gigantic size of,
522
Mtemi, chief, 333
Mud-fish, 216
Muc;ere River, 496
Mugeyo village, 493
Mugiliewa territory, 500
Mukamba, chief, 496
Mukondoku, chief, 632
Mukoiidokwa Range, 151 ; Pass, 230,
642; River, 151, 230, G ;1; leedcrs
of, 231
Mukun':;u, 486
Mukimguru, African intermittent
fever, 86, 119, 130, 325
Munieha, 203
Muuiyi Usagara, 151
Musa, chief of the Johanna men, 442
Muretnbwe Cape, 489 ; Point, 490
M nscat Arabs of Zanzibar, 6
Miissoudi, tlie Diwan's account of an
extraordinary flood, C47
INDEX.
729
MusTinya Lake, 399
Muzimu Island, 482,493
Mvule tree, 524
Mvumi village, 641
Mwaru, 357
Myombo tree, 126
Mussoud bin Abdullah, 266
Mussoudi, 109 ; beautiful prospect at,
110
" Nazi-Moya " at Zanzibar, 5, 13
Negroes of Zanzibar, 9 ; character of,
10
New, Rev. Charles, introduction to,
659 ; his account of the collapse of
the F^nglish Relief Expedition, 615
" New York Herald " Islets, 510
Ngaraiso village, 630
Nghwhalah River, 521, 630
Ngura Peak, 151, 153
Niamtaga, 404
Niasanga village, 482
Niongo, 357
Nondo, Speke's runaway, 214
Nullahs, description of, 232
Nyabigma island, 484
Nyambwa, 186
Nzoe, antelope of Speke, 366
"Oniar," Mr, Stanley's watch dog,
85 ; death of, 162
Pallah Inick, 341
Peacii trees, wild, 535
Pembcra Pereh, Sultan, 184, 187
Perpusilla, the, 337, 529
Piag?;ia, the Italian traveller, 453
Pisolitic limestone, 94
Plantains, toddy made from, 525
Pottery, native, of the Wazavira, 367
Queen Victoria, letter conveying the
thanks of Her Majesty and the
announcement of the Royal pre-
sent, 616.
Rawlinson, Sir ITenry, 685, 687, 692
Ras Shangani, " Sandy Point," 13
Rehenneko village, 142, 641
Reptiles of Central Africa, 530
Rocky Mountains and East African
chain compared, 246
Rosako village, 84
Royal Geographical Society, their
relations with Dr. Livingstone,
467; leavened with Cooleyism,
469 ; their conduct towards the
author, 683 ; their censure of the
"Search and Relief Expedition"
undeserved, 688 ; its collapse due
to their neglect in issuing instruc-
tions contingent on the author's
success, 690 ,
Rua country, 449 ; people, 459
Rubeho Slopes, 151 ; Peak, 167
Rnbuga, 219
Rudewa Hiver, 140
Rufiji, or Ruhwha River, 235
Rugufu Lake, 400 ; River, 376, 536
Ruhinga, chief, 501
Ruslzi River, 495 ; problem of, 476 ;
delta of, 500
Saada'mi, port of, 225
Said bin Majid, 414
Salim bin Rashid, 114
Saline lagoons, origin of, 232
Sultana of Simbamwcnni, 116, 131,
132
Sami-sami, red beads, 357
Sawahili, meaning of the term, 224
Sayf, son of All, slain, 293
Sayd bin Salim's house, 258
Selim, interpreter, 70
, the Arab boy, 351
Sitting on Pombe, 189
Sentakeyi, Cape, 493
Sliaw, j". W., 26, 32, 39, 66, 70, 118,
139, 152, 157, 278, 305, 315 ; leaves
the Expedition, 321
Shaniba Gonera, or, "Goncra's
Field," good disposition of the
Indian widow towards the whites;
ajipcaranco of the place, tratle, &c.,
75
Sheikh Sayd bin Salim, 266, 268, 612
Ilamed, 188
730
INDEX.
Sheikh Hassid, 22
Khamis bin Abdullah, 266
bin Nasib, 266, 297
Sultan bin Ali, 266
Thani, 162, 178
Sherif, Dr. Livingstone's servant, dis-
honesty of, 465
Shiza, 220
Sigungwa, 575
Shrubs, &c. of Central Africa, 526
Simbamwenni, 115 ; desolation of, by
flood, 646
Sultana of, 120, 131, 132
Simba, ruler of Kaser^, 364
Simbo, 228, 645
Khambi, 126
Simeon Price, Livingstone's servant,
443
Singwe, a plum-like fniit, 472
Slave-trade, 225, 244
Slave-gang, chained, 104
Small-pox, terrible scourge of East
and Central Africa, 533
Smoking among the Wanyamwezi,
548
Sofi beads, 473
Somalis, 9
Soor Hadji Palloo, 50, 51, 52, 55, 56,
57, 100
Soud, the Arab, 269
, son of Sayd bin Majid, 266
bin Sayd, his attack on Wilyan-
kuru, 282 ; his death, 283
Spekc, Capt., 227, 517 ; his "Faith-
fuls," 27 ; treatment of " Bombay "
by, 28 ; error of, as to altitude of
Tanganika, 406
Stanley, Mr., start from Bcmbay, 1 ;
landing at Zanzibar, hospitable re-
ception by Capt. Webb, 3 ; im-
pressions of the city, 4 ; interview
with Dr. Kirk, 12 ; organization of
the expedition, 21 ; visit to the
Sultan, 36 ; departure from Zanzi-
bar, 40 ; landing at Baganioyo, 41 ;
troublesome experiences, 47 ; visit
to the " Livingstone caravan," 63 ;
interview with Dr. Kirk, 65 ; pre-
parations for departure into the
interior, 66t; difficulties with em-
ployes, 67 ; chase after a thief,
despatch of four caravans, 68;
apology for egotism, 69 ; departure
of the fifth caravan, led by himself,
70 ; members composing it, 71 ;
outfit, 72 ; the start, first camp,
Shamba Gonera, 73, 75 ; crossing
the Kingani, 78 ; hippopotami
shooting, 80 ; Kikoka village, 82 ;
map of Bagamoya region, 83 ; halt
at Eosako, 84 ; " Omar," watch-
dog, missing, 85 ; formidable num-
ber of insects, the tsetse-fly, 87-
90; game hunting, 91; difficulty
of penetrating an African jungle,
92 ; camp at Kingani, 94 ; death
of the grey Arab horse, and offence
given by its interment, 96 ; inter-
view with the king of Kingaru, 97 ;
loss of the remaining horse from
cancer, 99 ; desertion and sick-
ness, 100; appearance of Ma-
ganga's caravan, 100 ; march to
Imbiki, 101 ; reach Msuwa, perils
of the jungle, 102 ; astonishment
of the chief, 103 ; chained slave-
gang, 104 ; halt at Kisemo, 104 ;
belles of, 105; narrow escape of
Khaniisi, 107 ; flogged for deser-
tion, 108; arrival of Wangwana
caravan with file of ' Heralds,' &c.,
108 ; visit of Kisemo's daughters,
109; Mussoudi, 109; beautiful
l)rosi)cct, 110 ; cross the Ungeren-
geri, 111 ; start for Mikeseh, 112 ;
Ulagalla and Muhalleh, 113; over-
take Maganga's caravan, meet with
Sulim bin Hashid, news of Living-
stone, 114 ; pass town of Simba-
mwenni,115; its fortifications, 116;
curiosity of the inhabitants, 117;
four days' halt and overhaul of the
luggage, 118; attack of ague, 119;
visit of ambassadors of tlie Sultana
of Simbamwenni, 120; wretched
encampment on the Ungerengori,
INDEX.
731
124; difficulty of crossing the
river, 125 ; Simbo Khambi, Bun-
der Salaam, the cook, flogged for
pilfering, 126; Makata Valley,
127 ; loss of Bombay's equipage,
128; assistance of the Sultana of
Simbamwenni in its recovery, 131 ;
her appropriation of tribute claimed
as due, 132 ; intervention of Sheikh
Thani, 132 ; difficulties of the Ma-
kata Valley, 135 ; escape and cap-
ture of Kingaru, 137 ; emerge from
the swamp Makata, attack of dy-
sentery, 141 ; halt at Behenneko,
142 ; ascent of the Usagara Moun-
tains, 143 ; Mukondokwa Valley
and River, 144 ; Kiora, 144 ; camp
at, illness of Farquhar, 147 ; unsatis-
factory state of his caravan, 148 ;
ford of tlie Mukondokwa Kiver,
151 ; Madete, Lake of Ugombo,
153; revolt of Shaw and Farqu-
har, 157; Shaw's penitence and
subsequent attempt at assassina-
tion, 160 ; departure from Ugumbo,
161 ; camp at Matamombo, death
of the dog " Omar," Sheikh 'I'hani
in clover at Mpwai)wa, 162 ; a
good breakfast and dinner, 163 ;
I'arquhar left to be nursed, 164 ;
twelve pagazis engaged, 106 ;
abundance of earwigs, 169 ; white
ants, 170; Chunyo, badness of the
water, 172; attack of fever, 173;
Ugogo, 174; frantic conduct of
the population, 176 ; West Mvumi,
177 ; the Sultan's exorbitant de-
mand of K()n(la,.178; Mataiubtini,
rcasoiiai)lcness of the Saltan of,
181; lliliiwana, 182; attack of in-
termittent fever, 183; Kidiilinio,
bleak aspect and bad water, 184 ;
Nyanibwa, demonstrativeness of
the jjeople, 186; Mizanza, 191;
benefit from quinine, visit from
the Sultan, 192; l.ittlo Mukon-
doku, 191 ; Mukondoku Proper,
195 ; coiiinn>tioii iiiid cowardice,
196; uproar in the camp, 197;
debate as to route, 199 ; threatened
mutiny, 202 ; Munieka, 203 ; Ma-
bunguru Nullah, 205; Unyam-
bogi, 206; Kiti, 207; Msalalo,
Ngaraiso, 208; Kirurumo, greet-
ing from the villagers, inter-
view with Sultan bin Mahommed,
209 ; Kusuri, visit from Sheikh
Hamed, and party of elephant-
hunters, 210; halt at Mgongo
Tembo, 211; Nghwhalah Mtoni,
abundance of sweet water, 212 ;
Madedita, tsetse-fly troulSesome,
213 ; reach Unyamwezi territory
at Eastern Tura, cultivated region,
213; Nondo, Speke's runaway,
214; Central Tura, attempted
night robbery, 214; a thief shot
dead, pass Western Tura, 215 ;
Kwala Mtoni, mud-fish, illness of
the tailor, Abdul Kader, 216;
wishes to give up his post, 217 ;
Rubuga, desolation of, since Bur-
ton's visit, 219; meeting with
Amer bin Sultan, 219; Kigwa,
wasted condition of, 220; Shiza,
pastoral aspect of, visit from the
Sultan, 220; rejoicings in camp
on reaching Unyanyembe territory,
221 ; geography and ethno;j;rapliy
of the country traversed, 223-257 ;
life in UnyanyemlJe, 258; break-
• fast and gossip with Sayd bin
Salim, 259 ; Kazeh, a myth, 260 ;
leave Kwikuru, 261 ; in comfort-
able quarters, 262 ; visit from the
Taborii Arab magnates, 26 1 ; Ta-
bora, chief Arab settlement in (,'en-
tral All ien, 266 ; attend a council
of war, 267 ; feast at the close of the
council; return to Kwihara, 271;
the I.ivingstone caravan's halt of
100 days, 272 ; attack of fever, 273 ;
preparations for the march, 275 ;
warlike demonstration, 277 ; l iast-
ern Mfuto, illness of Shaw, y/er-
soiiiitl of tbo army, 278 ; I mauda,
732
INDEX.
medicine daubing, war harangue,
280; Ziinbizo, attack on the vil-
lage, 281 ; fate of Soud bin Sayd
and his Arabs, 283 ; retreat and
stormy councils of war, 284 ; fur-
ther retreat of the Arabs to Tabora,
288 : serious position of the Expe-
dition, 289 ; intelligence of Living-
stone, 290 ; news of death of Far-
quhar, 291 ; illness of Shaw, attack
of Mirambo on Tabora, 292 ;
Khaniis bin Abdullah, &c., slain,
293 ; preparations for Jlirambo's
threatened attack on Kwihara,
295 ; visit to ISheikh bin Nassib,
297; retreat of Mirambo, 298;
determination to lead a flying ca-
ravan to Ujiji, 299 ; apathy of
Shaw, 300 ; visit to 'J'hani bin Ab-
dullah, arrival of letters, 301 ;
death of Barusi, evil reports by the
Arabs, 302 ; present of a boy-
slave, 303; defeat of Mirambo at
Mfuto, 304 ; nursing experiences,
305 ; farewell feast at Unyanye-
mbe, 307 ; march to L'jiji com-
menced by southern route, 310;
list of " braves " of the Expedition,
311 ; Bombay's tender passion,
313 ; the start, 314 ; Shaw shows
the white feather, 315 ; Kinya-
mwezi village, attack of fever, 316 ;
arrest of runaways, threat of slave-
chain, 317 ; lueseuka, furtlier de-
sertions, punishment, witlulrawal
of Abdul Kader tlie tailor, 318 ;
sickness in camp, adverse apjiear-
ances, 319 ; Kasegara, rejoicings
at 319; Kikandu, Shaw's by-play,
320 ; his withdrawal, 321 ; biauty
of Unyamwczi forest scenery, 322 ;
Uganda, 323 ; Benta, 324 ; Ki-
kuru, the mukunguru or fever,
325; camp at Ziwani, 327; gi-
gantic sycamore, 328 ; Mauyara,
cultivated region, 331 ; dilliculty
of buying provisions, 332 ; visit of
Mtbmi, 333; his aiitouishniuiit at
the anther's medicine-chest, 334:
Gombe River, its beautiful neigh-
bourhood, 336; narrow escape
from a crocodile, suspicious-looking
natives, 339 ; a peaceful camp-
scene, 340 ; symptoms of revolt at
starting onwards, 343 ; murderous
aspect of Asmani and Mabruki,
344; Bombay and Ambari in
chains, the march resumed, sketch
of the principal men of the Expe-
dition, 348 ; Ziwani (pool), water-
less condition of, 352 ; Tongoni,
abundance of honey-birds, 353 ;
Marefu, rumours of war in our
front, 355 ; march through a forest
abounding with peach-trees, 356 ;
Utende village, 356 ; Mwaru, 357 ;
supposed report of Livingstone,
Mrera's district, wild elephants,
358; Selim falls ill, 359; start
from Mrera north-westward, 361 ;
confidence restored in the camp,
remarkable ant-hills, 362 ; camp
in the jungle, 363 ; embassy from
Simba, 364 ; Uzavira, ruined neigh-
bourhood of, 366 ; Misonghi, 366 ;
Mpokwa River, deserted village
near, 367 ; Mtambu stream, its
beauty, 368 ; attack by a leopard,
369; shot at a wild boar, 370;
proximity of lions, 371 ; Itaga
village, beginning of troubles, 373 ;
shortness of provisions, 377 ;
" Welled Nzogera's " village, abun-
dant supiilies, 379 ; crossing a
marsh, 380; reach the Malagarazi,
heavy exaction of the chief Kiala,
381 ; island of lhata, fre>h de-
mands for ferriage, 382; donkey
seized by crocodile, 383; Uvinza,
news of Livingstone, 384 ; depar-
ture from the Malai;ai'a/.i, 385;
country of I'lilia, halt at Kawan-
ga, 386; halt on the roiulnvo
stream, 388 ; interview wiih Rlion-
vu, 389; exiirliilant demand of
honga, 392; cross the Kanengi
INDEX.
733
River, 394 ; more claims of honga,
395 ; departure by stealth, 396 ;
Kanengi River, 397 ; cross the
Busugi, taming a sable shrew, 398 ;
Lake Musunya, 399; Eugiifu
Kiver, Kabogo Mountain, singular
phenomenon of, 400; Sunuzzi
stream, 401 ; enter Ukaranga, 402 ;
beauty of the landscape, 403;
Mkute River, Niamtaga, alarm of
the people, 404 ; first view of the
Tanganika, 406; Port of Ujiji in
view, 407 ; salute announcing the
approach of the caravan, 408;
meeting \vitL Susi, the serviint of
Dr. Livingstone, 409 ; excitement
of the inhabitants, 410; appear-
ance of the Doctor, 411 ; the intro-
duction, 412; conversation, 413;
the over-due letter-bag, 365 days
from Zanzibar, 414 ; budget of
news, 415 ; intercourse with Li-
vingstone, 420, et seq. ; suggestions
as to his future course, 477 ; start
with Livingstone for cruise on the
Tanganika, 479 ; pass Bangwe Is-
land, 479 ; wooded hills of Bemba,
480 ; camp at Niasanga, 482 ; Ny-
abigma Island, 484 ; Mukungu,
486 ; loss of valuables from Bom-
bay's intoxication, 487 ; hostile de-
monstrations of the Bikari jKJople,
490 ; bivouac on the shore disturbed
by natives, 491 ; round Cape Sen-
takeyi, and sleep at Mugeyo, 493 ;
Magala, hospitality of the people,
visit of the Mutware of, 494 ; ru-
mours of wars, 494 ; Kisiku, native
report as to the Rusizi River, 495 ;
Mugere, delta of the, 496 ; visit
Mukamba, attacked by fever and
experience Livingstone's tender-
ness, 497 ; Mugiliewa territory on
the delta of the Rusizi, 500 ; visit
of the chief Ruhiu.;a, his goo-
graphical information, 501 ; explo-
ration of the Rusizi debouchure,
604; Kukumba Point, enchanting
scenery near, 508 ; halt at Bemba.
superstition of the Wajiji, 509:
' New York Herald Islets,' so named
by Livingstone, 510; Cape Lu-
vumba, hostile aspect of the Wa-
sansi, 511 ; return to Ujiji, domestic
and foreign news, 515 ; geographical
and ethnographical notes, 514 et
seq.; preparations for march to
Unyanyembe, 562 ; attack of fever,
564 ; Christmas Day at Ujiji, 565 ;
the departure, 566 ; meet with
Mohammed bin Gharib, 570; Si-
gunga, beautiful aspect of, 574;
spoit. at Uriu:ba, 575, homowarC
bound, 576 et seq. ; an elephant
herd, 581 ; Ukawendi, luxuriance
of its vegetation, 584 ; painful
march to Imrera, 586 et seq. ; a
girafife shot, 503 ; severe attack of
fever, the Doctor's prescription,
594 ; the caravan attacked by bees,
595 ; Mrera, meeting with caravan
sent by Sayd bin Habib, exchange
of news, 596 ; encounter a lion,
600; Ugundu, the deserter Ham-
dallah retaken, 604 ; receipt of
letters and newspapers, 605 ; wel-
come to Unyanyembe, 607 ; stores
found tampered with, 610 ; a second
Christmas celebration, 611 ; four
years' store of supplies turned over
to the Doctor, 613; commission to
• enlist at Zanzibar fifty freemen as
his Ciirriers, 615; forevvcll dance of
natives, 620 ; choragic adieu of the
Wanyamwezi, 621 ; last night with
Livingstone, 622; the last walk in
his comimny, 625; the farewell,
627 ; a letter from the Doctor, 628 ;
Ngaraiso, hostility of the \Va-
kimbu, 630; Ugogo, warlike de-
monstrations, 631 ; march of war-
riors arrayed for the fight, 632;
Khonze, determined mode of deal-
ing with the chief successful, 633;
Kamyenyi, cordial reception by
the Msagira of, 634; Maiwnga,
734
INDEX.
hostile demonstration, 636; asked
to act as rain-maker, 637 ; Kulabi,
experience of a " peppo," 638 ;
Marenga Mkali, 639; Mukon-
Jokwa valley, experience of the
Masika, 640; Makata plain, bat-
tling with the floods, 641 ; Mvumi
village, fighting with mosquitoes,
641 ; the Doctor's despatches in
danger, 642 ; a perilous ford, 644 ;
ten days' camp at Rehenneko, diffi-
culties of the march to the Makata
River, 645 ; arrive at Simbo, cross
the Unkerengere, and reach Sim-
bamwenni, its desolated aspect,
646; Ulagalla, extraordinary de-
vastation by flood, 647; Msuwa,
horrors of its jungle, 648 ; Kingaru
Hera, news of the Zanzibar storm,
649; Eosako, welcome consign-
ment from the American Consul,
649; ill-natured criticisms, infor-
mation as to the " Livingstone
Search and Relief Expedition,"
G60; Kingwcre's ferry, a watery
waste, four miles broad, 651 ; wel-
come to Bagamoyo, 652 ; meeting
with Lieut. Henn, 653 ; introduc-
tion to Mr. Oswald Livingstone,
655 ; the march ended, 657 ; wel-
come at Zanzibar, the American
Consul and Rev. C. New, 658;
congratulation of Lieut. Dawson,
discussion as to his resignation,
599; visit from Dr. Kirk and
Bishop Tozer, 662 ; change in the
author's appearance on his return,
663 ; conversation with Lieut.
Henn, 664 ; cxi)lanation8 from the
Rev. C. New, 665, et seq. ; prepa-
rations for Mr. 0. Livin<_'stone's
Expedition, 672 ; his resignation,
673 ; selection of an Arab leader,
674 ; parting with Lieut. Dawson,
674; discussion with Dr. Kirk on
the misunderstanding with Living-
stone, 675 ; farewell to old travel-
ling companions, 666 ; departure
from Zanzibar in the 'Africa,'
677 ; reach Seychelles, a month's
delay at Mahe, agreeable inter-
course at " Livingstone Cottage,"
678; arrival at Aden and Mar-
seilles, 679 ; a few remarks as to
the English Press, 679; and the
Royal Geographical Society, 683;
defence of the English Expedition
against the censure of the Council,
689 ; honor rendered to the author
by the Royal Geographical Society,
691 ; award of the Victoria Medal,
692.'
Sultan bin Mohammed, 209
Sultan of Zanzibar, Mr. Stanley's in-
terview with, 37
Sunuzzi stream, 401
Sunset at Ujiji, magnificence of, 539
Susi, Dr. Livingstone's servant, 409,
498
Swaruru, Sultan, 196
Sycamore, gigantic, 327
Syed Burghash, Sultan of Zanzibar,
37, 38
Tabora, 264
Tagamoyo, massacre of the Wama-
nyuema by, 463
Tamarind-trees, 525
Tamarisks, 525
Tanganika Lake, first visit to, 406 ;
cruise on, with Dr. Livingstone,
479 et seq.
Tarya Topan, integrity of, 9, 37, 50
Tembe, the, 253
Thani bin Abdullah, 266, 301
, Sheikh, 132
'I'hata Island, 382
Tongoni, 353
Tozer, Bp., his residence at Zanzi-
bar, 5,19; his character and High
Church practices, 19, 20 ; his con-
gratulations at the author's success,
663
Trade, mode of conducting, in Africa,
8
Tsetse fly, 87, 213, 330, 354
INDEX.
Tura, Eastern, 213; Central, 214;
Western or Tura Perro, 215
Udoe, cones of, 94
— , picturesque aspect of, and war-
like character of the people, 240
" Uganga," or charm, 106
Ugombo, Lake, 153, 231 ; Peak, 156 ;
Plain, 167
Ugunda village, 323
Uhha country, geological interest of
538 ; king of, 387
Ujiji, magnificence of sunset at, 539 ;
port of, 407
Ukaranga territory, its beautiful as-
pect, 403, 539
Ukawendi country, 536, 537, 585;
scenery of, 375
Ukonongo, 535
Ukwere, territory of, 226
Ulagalla district, 113
Ulimengo, absconding slave, 349,592
Unamapokera, friendliness of, 635
Ungcrengeri River, 105, 111, 123,
647 ; rise of, 227 ; Valley, 110
Urundi Mountains, 488
Unyamwezi forest scenery, beauty of,
322; meaning of the name, 516;
territory, 213
Unyambogi, 206
Uplands of Africa, health and abun-
dance in, 234
Urimba, 575
Uronga River, 230
Urimba, camp at, 558
Usagara Mountains, 126, 143
Useguhha, teiritory of, 226
Ut(inde village, 356
Uvinza, Southern and Northern, 537
Uwelasia River, 575
Uyanzi, Magunda Mkali, or " Hot
Field," 257
Uyoweh, Mirambo of, 267
Uzavira, village in, 367
Victoria Medal of the Royal Geo^
graphical Society awarded to the
author, 692.
735
Wabembe, or Wavembe, tribe of can-
. nibals, 555
Waganga or medicine men, 244 ;
filthy war-potion concocted by, 295
Wagogo tribe, 249 ; villages of, 214
Wagtails regarded as birds of good
omen, 483
Waguhha tribe, 384
Wagunda tribe, 324
Wahumba tribe, 195
"Wait-a-bit" thorn, 525
Wajiji tribe, 552 ; superstition, 509
Wakimbu of Tura, rascality of, 214
tribe, 208 ; villages of, 214
Wakwere tribe, 238
Wakonongo, 339
Wamanyuema, fondness of, for mar-
keting, 463
Wami River distinct from the Kin-
gani, 229 ; available for commerce,
233
Wangwana caravan, 108
village, 219
■ tribe, gormandizing of the, 342
Wanyamwezi tribe, 9, 197; their
superstitious aversion to antelope
meat, 366 ; the Yankees of Africa,
540
War, council of, 267
Warfare, tame mode of conducting,
495
Wa-Ruga-Ruga, 354
Warundi tribe, 555
Wasawahili tribe, 9, 237
Wasansi or Basansi tribe, 511
Waseguhha territory and tribe, 114,
442
Washenshi, 103, 104
Wavinza tribe, 385 ; groed of, 384
Webb, Capt. F. R., U.S. Consul, his
hospitality and courtesy, 3, 12, 17,
37
, Mr., of Newstiad Abbey, 451 ;
river named after him, 451
, Mrs., 40
Wago-o, cool impudence of the, 85
Whindc, port ol, 225
Wildornoiis, African more favourable
*
736
nmBX.
to the traveller than the populated
country, 205
Wild-boar, 372
Wilyaukuni, attack on, 282
Wine, high value of, in the interior,
25
Zanzibar city, view of, from the bay,
harbor, " Charley's " lodging-house,
3 ; character of the streets and po-
pulation, trade, "Nazi-Moya," 4;
house of Bishop Tozer, mart of the
interior, mode of commerce un-
changed for agos, 5; population.
11 ; filth and unhealthiness of, 16 »
inertness induced by, 17 ; Palace
of the Sultan, 36
Island, misconceptions as to
its character, 1 ; its aspect from
the sea, 2 ; malarious climate, 16
Zassi Eiver and viUage, 483
Zebra, 338
Zimbizo, attack on the village, 281
Zimmerman on the benefit of an un-
encumbered mind, 433
Ziwa, or pond, 216
Ziwani (pool), 327, 352
Zogga, palm toddy, 487
OF
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
The great African traveller, the search for, and relief
of whom this book describes, was born near Glasgow,
March 19th, 1813. At the very early age of ten he was
employed in a factory as a " piecer," by w'hich he earned
suflBcient money to contribute his mite towards the sup-
port of his family. A portion of his wages he was per-
mitted to devote to the purchase of books, whereby he
laid the foundation of a useful and sound knowledge.
At sixteen he was pretty well acquainted with the
writings of classic authors. Horace and Virgil were
favourites, but his readings were not limited to this
branch of education, they ranged over every field of
literature save fiction. Books of travels were especially
delightful to him ; scientific works, books on natural
history, medicine, and theology served not only to
lighten tedious hours at the spinning jenny, but to
fit him for the career for which he was destined, and
which he has since pursued with honour to himself and
credit to the family from which he sprung.
At nineteen years of age he was promoted to a cotton
h
X
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
spinner, in which capacity he obtained a higher wage,
which enabled him to support himself while attending
the Greek and Medical classes, as also Divinity lectures
during the winter in Glasgow. After confining himself
to the study of Medicine and Divinity, with a view to
offer himself, by the advice of friends, as a Missionary
Physician for service, under the auspices of the London
Missionary Society, in China, at twenty-five years of
age he was summoned to undergo the necessary exami-
nation, out of which test he emerged as a Licentiate of
Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons.
He was then sent as a Probationer to the establishment
of the Eev. Mr. Cecil, at Chipping Ongar, in the county
of Essex.
About the time he became qualified for the vocation for
which he had been preparing himself, the Chinese Opium
War broke out, and it became inexpedient for him to pro-
ceed to China. For such reason his services were diverted
to South Africa, for which Mission-field he embarked, after
a short course of theological training, in the year 1840.
The Kev. David Livingstone, M.D., landed at the Cape
of Good Hope, after a voyage of three months from Eng-
land, in his twenty-eighth year. He proceeded into the
interior, via Algoa Bay, and arrived, after a journey of
700 miles, at the Mission Station of Kuruman, which had
been established thirty years before by Messrs. Hamilton
and Moffat. '
After a nearly five years' residence at Kiiruman, he be-
came united in marriage to the daughter of Robert
Moffat — from whom, in course of time, were born Robert
MEMOIB OF LIVINGSTONE.
Moffat Livingstone, Thomas Steele Livingstone, Agnes
Livingstone, and W. Oswell Livingstone.
During his preparatory labours at the Kuruman
Mission, which extended from 1840 to 1845, that spirit
to explore which has since distinguished him, developed
itself. In the year 1845 he proceeded to Chonuane, and
thence to Kolobeng, where he established a mission
house, cultivated a vegetable garden, and a farm, besides
ministering to the spiritual necessities of the Bechuana
population which surrounded Kolobeng.
This post was the most advanced in the missionary
field, and David Livingstone was the vanguard of the
soldiers of the Ci'oss, who were marching northward
into the African interior to attack the stronghold of
barbarism.
It was at Livingstone's house that enterprising travellers,
lured to this far region by the report of multitudes of
large game, while on their way to the game countries
beyond, halted to refit. Here they stored their supplies,
to this house they returned to rest from their sport ;
and of the humble missionary's house, and the kindly
hospitality they received, Gordon Gumming, Mr. Oswell,
Mr. Webb of Newstead .Abbey, Major Frank Vardon— all
great hunters — speak and write in terms of enthusiastic
praise.
Years roll by, the Christian congregations flourish
under his careful supervision and constant labour, and he
begins to move onward towards the North. He has
heard of a lake situated beyond the desert of Kalahari :
no white man has ever seen its shores; and seeking
h 2
xu MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE,
a site whereon to build a new mission and sow tlie seed
of the Gospel, he determines to go and search for it.
The very name of a lake of fresh waters and numerous
streams had a charm for him, dwelling as he was within
a thirsty and dry region. Water was precious at Kolo-
beng. The Bechuana believed that if they had but
plenty of water, the neighbourhood of Kolobeng could not
be excelled for the salubrity of its climate and fertility
of its soil, [fhe Kalahari desert was crossed by Living-
stone, Oswell, and Murray, and the Lake Ngami was
discovered by the three friends on the 1st of August, 1849.
From this discovery Livingstone returned to Kolobeng,
where he arrived on the 10 th of October, having been
absent on his first expedition of exploration four months
and ten days.
Lake Ngami lies between south latitudes 20° and 21°,
and near the 20° longitude. It is from fifty to seventy
miles in length, and is 2,825 feet above sea level. For
this discovery Livingstone was awarded half of the usual
premium placed at the disposal of the Koyal Geographical
Society by the Queen.
In April, 1850, the second journey of exploration was
undertaken by Livingstone, this time taking with him
his wife and three children, Eobert, Thomas, and Agnes.
Taught by experience, derived from his first expedition, of
the obstacles to be met, he selected a feasible route
presenting but few difficulties as far as the Zouga Eiver.
Crossing the river, the family proceeded up the northern
bank, with the intention of going to Linyanti, where
Sebituane, chief of the Makololo tribe, resided. But he
MEMOIR OP LIVINGSTONE.
Xlll
•was unable to proceed beyond the Zouga, and he was re-
luctantly compelled to forego his intention. Livingstone's
uprightness of character, however, soon won the heart of
the warrior Lechulathebe, who at once tendered his
friendship, and assistance for the furtherance of his
labours, in proselytising the heathen under him. He
was not able to avail himself of the offer for any length
of time, as the lives of his wife and children were
threatened by the terrible fever of the country, and
he was compelled to return in consequence to Kolobeng.
Early in 1857 he began his third journey, accompanied
by his wife, children, and Mr. Oswell the hunter. On
the arrival of the party at Linyanti, the great chief
Sebituane warmly received them, offered to replace the
cattle slain by the tsetse fly, and in other ways mani-
fested the interest he felt in them.
During Dr. Livingstone's residence with the Makololo,
Sebituane died. His nominee to the chieftainship was a
daughter, but she disclaimed the supreme authority
m favour of a younger brother called Sekeletu, then aged
nineteen, who was at once recognised by the Makololo, as
their chief.
The chapters of ' Missionary Travels,' relating to his
life and labours among the Makololo, are among the most
interesting which Livingstone ever wrote.
Alarmed by the weak health of Mrs. Livingstone
and of his children, he returned once more to Kolobeng,
and finally concluded to escort his family to the Cape ol
Good Hope, and see them embark for England.
From the Cape of Good Hope he started on his journey
xiv
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
alone back to Linyanti, whence with the brave band of
Makololo, that Sekeletu the chief supplied him, he
proceeded to St. Paul de Loanda on the West Coast
of Africa, where he arrived at the house of a Mr. Grabrielle,
sick almost to death. But his strong constitution
triumphed over the disease, and after a few months' stay
at Loanda, he returned to the interior to Linyanti.
From Linyanti he proceeded eastward, during which
travels he discovered the great Victoria Falls of the
Zambezi, and finally emerged on the East Coast of Africa
near Kilimane in 1856.
From 1840 to 1856 are sixteen years of hard labour, as
a missionary and traveller. In what a brief sentence can
we sum up so much earnest, hearty work, so many
fatigues from marches, privations consequent upon in-
salubrious climates ; fevers, the result of rain and
marshes ; dangers which at all times surround the
explorer in Africa !
Livingstone left Kilimane on the 12th of August, 1856,
and proceeded to Mauritius, where he was most hospitably
received by Major-General C. M. Hay, who constrained
him to remain with him until through the influence of a
healthier climate, and abundant comfort, he could be freed
from an enlarged spleen, which resulted from the frequent
attacks of fever he had sufi'ered on his journeys.
Arriving in England after such a long sojourn in
Southern Central Africa, on December 12th, 1856, he
was received with open arms by every man in Great
Britain who was interested in Africa, or was an admirer
of physical endurance and matchless perseverance.
MEMOIR OP LIVINCtSTONE.
XV
He closed his admirable book ' Missionary Travels in
South Africa,' wherein he records his numerous adven-
tures, the instruction he derived from his patient observa-
tions, with words which reveal his character more fully
than anything the present author could write, as
follows : —
■ I have not mentioned lialf the favours bestowed, but I may just add
that no one has cause for more abumiant gratitude to his fellow-men,
and to his Maker, than I have ; and may God grant that the effect on
my mind be such that I may be more humbly devoted to the service of
the Author of all our mercies !
The London 'Times' of the 11th of December, 1856,
contained the following interesting report of Dr. Living-
stone's arrival in Europe : —
The Rev. Ur. Livingstone arrived at Marseilles from Tunis on the
6th inst., and was then in good henlth. His left arm is, however,
broken, and partly useless, it having been broken by a lion. When he
was taken on board lier Majesty's ship Frolic, on the Mozambique coast,
he had greatdifticulty in speaking a sentence of English, having disused it •
so long while travelling in Africa. He had with him a native from the
interior of Africa. Tliis man, when he got to the Mauritius, was so
excited with the steamers and various wonders of civilisation, that he
went mad, and jumped into the sea and was drowned. Dr. Livingstone
lias been absent from England seventeen years. He crossed the great
African continent almost in the centre, from west to east; has been
where no civilised being has ever been before, and has made many
notable di.scoveries of great value. He travelled in the twofold character
of missionary and phj'sician, having obtained a medical dijiloma. He
is rather a short man, with a pleasing and serious countenance, which
betokens the most determined resolution. He continued to wear the
caj) which he wore while performing his wonderful travels. On board
the (Jandia, in which ho voyaged from Alexandria to Tunis, he was re-
markable for his modesty and unassuming manners. He never spoke of
his travel.s, except in answer to (lueetions. The injury to h's arm was
sustained iti the deH(!rt while travelling with a friendly trilie of Africans.
A herd of lions broke into their camp at night, and carried ofl' .some of
xvi
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
their cattle. The natives, in their alarm, believed that a neighbouring
tribe had bewitched them. Livingstone taunted them with suffering
their losses through cowardice, and they then turned out to face and
hunt down the enemy. The Doctor shot a lion, which dropped wounded.
It afterwards sprang on him and caught him by the arm, and, after
wounding two natives who drew it otf him, it fell down dead. The
wounded arm was not set properly, and Dr. Livingstone suffered ex-
cruciating agony in consequence.
The following sketch of the traveller as he appeared
then is so good that I transcribe it from the pages of the
' Nonconformist ' journal : —
A foreign-looking person, plainly and rather carelessly dressed, of
middle height, hcmy frame, and Gaelic countenance, with short-cropped
hair and mustachios, and generally plain exterior, rises to address the
meeting. He appears to be about forty yeais of age. His face is
deeply furrowed and pretty well tanned. It indicates a man of quick
and keen discernment, strong impulses, inflexible resolution, and
habitual self-command. Unanimated, its most characteristic expres-
sion is that of severity ; when excited, a varied expression of earnest
and benevolent feeling, and remarkable enjoyment of the ludicroiis in
circumstances and character passes over it. The meeting rises to wel-
come him with deafening cheers. When he speaks, you think him at
first to be a Frenchman ; but as he tells you a Scotch anecdote in true
Glasgowwegian dialect, you make up your mind that he must be, as
his face indicates, a countryman from the north. His command of his
mother-tongue being imperfect, he apologises for his broken, hesitating
speech, by informing you that he has not spoken your language for
nearly sixteen years; and then he tells you, as best a modest yet
earnest man can, concerning his travels. In doing this he leaves out
all about his personal sufferings, just remarking that he intends to
save those anecdotes lor his " garrulous dotage." Much of what he says
he has alieady, of course, written in his journals, and of some circum-
tances he has before told at other places ; but he is one from whom you
could hear the same thing moie than three times. His narrative is not
very connected, and his manner is awkward, excepting once, when he
justifies his enthusiasm, and once when he graphically describes the
Mosiatunya — the great cataract of Central Africa. He ends a speech
of natural eloquence and witty simplicity by saying that he has begun
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
XVU
his work, aud will carry it on. His broken thanks are drowned by the
applause of the audience.
The ' Daily News ' of a later date sums up a glowing
eulogy on Livingstone's character as follows : —
Dr. Livingstone is one of the few men wliose words are realities.
Tliere is a quiet, curt energy about his statements which irresistibly
impresses the hearer with a conviction that he has done what he says,
and that lie will do it again when occasion offers. There is a trans-
parency in the simplicity of his diction which lets us see the workings*
of his mind, as if by some process of intuition. . . . There is true
sublimity in Dr. Livingstone's allusion to the immetliate resumption of
the arduous task wliich he has been prosecuting for sixteen years, aud
is about to return to after an interval of only a few months. " He saw
it to be his duty to go, and he was determined to do his duty, whatever
others might say about the matter.". . . It was impossible to look
round upon those assemblies without feeling a thrill of exultation at the
thought tliat, literally, the whole earth is full of our labours — that there
is no region in which our industrial enterprise, our skill in arms, our
benevolent eagerness to diffuse the blessings of civilisation and pure and
true religion, have not been displayed.
The ' Leader ' also in a similar enthusiastic strain con-
cludes thus : —
For seventeen years, smitten by more than thirty attacks of fever,
endangered by seven attempts u[)on his life, continually exposed to"
fatigue, hunger, and the chance of perishing miserably in a wilderness
shut out from the knowledge of civilised men, the missionary pursued
his way, an ajxjstle and a pioneer, without ftar, without egotism, with-
out desire of reward. Such a work, accomplished by such a man, de-'
serves all the eulogy that can be bestowed upon it, for nothing is more
rare than brilliant and unsiUlicd success.
On December 15th, 1856, the Koyal Geographical So-
ciety, then under the able and graceful presidentship
of Sir Koderick Murchison, testified their regard and
admiration for the perseverance with which he had accom-
XVlll
MEMOIK OF LIVINGSTONE.
plished the extraordinary series of geographical explora-
tions, with the presentation of the Patron's Gold Medal.
On the 5th of January, 1857, at an enthusiastic meet-
ing at the Mansion House of London, a " Livingstone
Testimonial Fund " was begun, and before the meeting
had terminated, the sum of £450 was subscribed. This
purse was subsequently increased, until it reached the
sum of one thousand guineas. Scotsmen, proud of their
countryman, formed another fund, and in Glasgow and
Edinburgh another purse of one thousand guineas was
raised. But to repeat all the encomiums lavished on the
great traveller subsequent to his return, or to enumerate
the many friendships he formed with the most loving and
generous, the noblest and best of his countrymen, would
be to extend this memoir beyond proper limits.
After a rest of nearly two years in England, he under-
took a governmental expedition in 1858, to explore the
Zambezi, to extend his previous explorations into the
interior, with the view of pioneering the advent of
commerce into that part of Africa whence he had
returned in 1856. He was at this period in his forty-
sixth year. He was accompanied on this expedition
by his brother Charles Livingstone (since H.B.M. Consul
at Fernando Po, who died in the latter part of October,
1873, while on his way to England, of yellow fever).
Dr. John Kirk was the botanist of this expedition, Mi.
Francis Skead, K.N., was the surveyor, and Mr. Kichard
Thornton was the geologist.
This expedition, the account of which is given in
Livingstone's book, ' The Zambezi and its Tributaries,'
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
XIX
lasted five years. In the fourth year of his second period
of exploration, Mrs. Livingstone, who had followed her
husband, died, and was buried on the bank of the Zambezi,
at a place called Shupanga.
Of this brave lady and faithful wife Charles Living-
stone writes : —
Those who ure not aware how this brave, good, En;j;lish wife made
a delightful home at Kolobeng, a thousand miles inland from the Cape,
and as the daughter of Mofi'at, and a Christian lady exercised most
beneficial influence over the rude tribes of the interior, may wonder
that she should have braved the dangers and toils of this down-trodden
laud. She knew them all, and in the disinterested and dutiful attempt
to renew her labours, was called to her rest instead. Fiat, Domine,
voluntas tua.
After journeying through Southern Africa in company
with her illustrious husband over upwards of five thousand
miles, the remains of this heroic lady lie in serene solitude
by the waters of the Zambezi. Around the grave are
palm forests and luxuriant tropical vegetation, with the
colossal crown of Morambala towering amid clouds and
blue ether, as it stands the guardian mount, over those
melancholy shades.
This East African or Zambezi Expedition was not so
fruitful in discoveries as the journey Livingstone made
while travelling alone. But there were many most
important results obtained by it. A port was discovered
which miglit easily be made available for commerce, when
it would direct itself to the Zambezi region. The noble
River Zambezi was proved to be navigable for light
draught river steamers, as far as the Kebrabassa Ilai)ids.
The liiver Shire was explored and Lakes Shirwa and
XX
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Nyassa were discovered. The Shire is capable of floating
paddle-wheeled steamers, drawing three feet of water
at all seasons, and Nyassa Lake, whence the Shire flows,
is a capacious inland sea with many hundred miles of
coast.
Livingstone's experiences on this journey are recorded
in his book, published by John Murray, of Albemarle
Street, London. It is replete with facts, gathered after
patient investigation with African history and geography
and much scientific instruction, and is an invaluable guide,
for that region bordering on the Mozambique.
In 1863, a despatch was received by Dr. Livingstone
from the Home Government, recalling the Expedition,
and accordingly the great explorer started down the
Zambezi for home.
Upon arriving at the mouth of the Zambezi, Living-
stone sailed in the Lady Nyassa for Zanzibar ; thence
he left for Bombay on the 16th of April, 1864, navigating
the vessel himself. This was no small feat, of crossing
2,500 miles of ocean in a small steamer, for an African
explorer ! The vessel was so small that no one noticed
his arrival in the harbour, and it was not known that he
had arrived until the next day, when he went to ask the
harbour-master where his little steamer should lie in port.
It remains for the author of this memoir, as the latest
friend of Livingstone, to whom were told certain facts by
the traveller himself, when subsequently we met in
Central Africa, to disabuse the impression, which I know
to exist with many men — -that Livingstone was rich.
The money which the explorer made on the sale of his
MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
xxi
first book, ' Missionary Travels,' was sufiicient to sustain
him for life with a modest competence, had it been wisely
put out at good interest ; but the instincts and spirit of
the explorer prevailed against more worldly wisdom.
When he departed on his second period of exploration,
under the auspices and in the pay of Government — it is
true that the Government equipped a steam launch which
Livingstone called the Ma Robert — a Makololo term for
Mrs. Livingstone — and subsequently despatched another
steamer, called the Pioneer, to him. But the Ma Robert
was so defective in her construction, that after a very
brief period of negative usefulness, she sank in the Shire
river, and the Pioneer drew too much water for active
work. The waters of the Eovuma and the Shire were
too shallow for such a vessel as the Pioneer, and accord-
ingly Livingstone, who had the success of the expedition
nearer to his heart than his own pecuniary interests,
ordered the construction of the Lady Nijassa, which cost
him, personally, the sum of £6,000. Before she was able
to prove of much service to him, the expedition was
recalled. The Lady Nyassa, on arriving at Bombay, was
sold for what she would fetch, which was only £2,000.
The entire proceeds of the sale of his steamer were
deposited in a banker's hands for safe keeping, but within
a short time afterwards the banker became a bankrupt !
Reflective readers may see much in the above to account
for the peculiar spirit with which he was accredited in
England at that period.
Tlie sura Livingstone derived from the .sale of ' The
Zambezi and its Tributaries '—the fruits of five years'
xxu
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
labour, did not approach to one-half the sum of £6,000,
expended in the purchase of the Lady Nyassa.
On the 20th of July, 1864, he reached London, and
again he was received with enthusiasm in his native
country. Societies, deputations, and cities tendered the
traveller the honours he deserved for his indomitable
labours in the cause of geographical science.
Mr. and Mrs. W. F. Webb, of Newstead Abbey, prevailed
upon him to accept their hospitalities. The Doctor had
become acquainted with Mr. Webb in 1862, while the
latter pursued with youthful ardour and a hunter's intincts
the large game inhabiting South Central Africa. Both
men from that period, mutually respecting each other's
good qualities and virtues, became warm friends, and the
friendship began in 1852 among the Bakwains of Africa,
lasted until Livingstone's death in 1873.
The Doctor always remembered his friends ; he never
ceased to speak of those who befriended him when he
returned to England from his long explorations, and
among the manifold kindnesses and attentions he received
none made a greater impression on his memory than
those which he received from the master and mistress of
Newstead Abbey.
From the month of August, 1864, to April, 1865,
Livingstone resided at Newstead. It was here he wrote
the second record of his travels, since which time the
room he occupied has gone under the name of " Living-
stone's room." The outlook from it is that of a soft
velvety lawn, where the young laughing grass ever wears
its spring-time colouring, of a silvery lake, whose tiny
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
XXlll
wavelets sing eternal music to the whispering breeze ; of
expanses of pasture land, invested by most lovely-
groupings of trees and groves. Often he must have
thought as he gazed upon the scene, wearied with the
strange toil of literary composition, what a wide contrast
existed between that happy and healthy English paradise
and the primeval solitudes and fatal atmosphere of
Central Africa.
That room, which saw the good man's labours as he
penned the sad litany of woes which the children of Africa
suffer under, will have an attraction for many generations
yet unborn.
In his Preface to his second work, Dr. Livingstone
hints at undertaking a third Expedition. He says : —
The Government have supported the proposal of the Royal Geo-
graphical Society, made by my friend Sir Eoderick Murcliison, and
have united with that body to aid me in another attempt to open
Africa to civilisinij influences, and a valued private friend has given a
thousand pounds for the same object.
I propose to go inland north of the territory which the Portuguese
in Euro|)e claim, and endeavour to commence that system on the East
which has been so eminently successful on the West Coast, a .system
combining the repressive efforts of H.M. cruisers with lawful trade and
Christian missions, the moral and material results of which have been
so gratifying.
I hope to ascend the Rovuma or some other river north of Cape
Delgado, and in addition to my other work shall strive, by passing along
the northern end of Lake Nyassa, and round the southern end of Lake
Tanganika, to ascertain the watershed of that part of Africa. In .so
doing, I have no wish to unsettle what, with so much toil and danger,
was accomplished by Speke and Grant, but rather to confirm their
illustrious discoveries.
The above is what Livingstone has written, but with
his own lips he supplied to me, among many other things,
xxiv
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
the details of how it came about that when nearly fifty-
three years old, he shoiild undertake a third Expedition
to Central Africa, which was to eclipse everything he had
accomplished before.
" One morning,"' said Livingstone, " Sir Roderick Mur-
chison visited me while I was stopping a day or two in
London and said to me, as well as I can remember, ' My
dear Livingstone, your disclosures respecting the interior
of Africa have created a profound excitement in the
geographical world. We (the Society) are of opinion
that we ought to send another Expedition into the heart
of Africa to resolve the problem of the watershed between
the Nyassa and the Tanganika Lakes ; for when that is
settled, all questions about Central Africa will be de-
finitely resolved. Whom could you recommend to take
charge of it as a proper man ?' "
Livingstone, after reflecting a short time, gave him the
name of . Sir Roderick, when he heard of the name,
was delighted ; he had also thought that should Living-
stone himself refuse to go, no better man could be ob-
tained. The President of the Royal Geographical Society
departed to sound the gentleman whom his friend Living-
stone had recommended so strongly. When questioned
as to his willingness to undertake the command of this
new Expedition, this gentleman at once politely refused
upon the grounds that unless he could be guaranteed a
sufl&cient rumuneration for his services, he could not
think, at his time of life, to undertake anything of the
sort unless it was remunerated.
Regarding this gentleman's answer to Sir Roderick's
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
XXV
proposition from a practical point of view, all sane men
will at once recognise the wisdom which guided him in
his reply, as it is scarcely fair to expect a man of advanced
years to undertake a mission of this nature without ample
compensation for exchanging the conveniences of civilized
life for the dangers and privations that constantly menace
and surround an explorer in Central Africa.
Sir Eoderick then said that the society could not
guarantee any pecuniary reward, but he could promise
that on his return to England from his exploration he
would find himself not neglected. The gentleman, how-
ever, declined to proceed to Africa on the strength of a
verbal promise of a reward.
In sore distress of mind at this refusal, the enthusiastic
geographer returned to Livingstone, and after imparting
to the sympathising explorer the negative results of his
mission, said to Livingstone :
• " Why cannot you go ? Come, let me persuade you ;
I am sure you will not refuse an old friend."
The result of Sir Roderick's appeal was, that Living-
stone consented to go as soon as possible after the pub-
lication of his book on the Zambezi. He had, however,
thought that he could have enjoyed a long holiday before
departing on another long journey. " Indeed," said he,
" I had flattered myself that I had much prospective
comfort in store for me in my old days. And pecuniary
matters required looking after for the sake of my family ;
but since you ask me in that way, I cannot refuse you."
Sir Roderick Murchison replied, out of sincere friend-
ship and admiration,
0
XXvi MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
" Never mind about pecuniary matters, my dear
Livingstone. It shall be my task to look after that ; you
may rest assured your interests shall not be forgotten."*
These little incidents do more than anything else
towards revealing the true character of the simple-
hearted David Livingstone. They will show how ready
he was to sacrifice — for it has been a sacrifice indeed —
himself upon the altar of friendship, and before the
shrine of science. They will also show what induce-
ments were held forth to make him commit himself at the
age of fifty-three— an age when most men begin to think
they have done enough for fame, science, or friendship —
to this last lengthened period of exploration, which, alas !
has ended so unhappily.
Another instance of his self-abnegation I can relate.
Mr. Hayward, the Queen's Counsel, was sent to him by
the then Prime Minister, Earl Eussell, to ask what he
would like the Grovernment to do for him — if he had any
particular views as regarded himself. This referred, of
course, as to what honour he coveted for himself ; so that
the Government of England might bestow it on him, to
show how his services were appreciated. But Living-
stone, ever unmindful of himself, said, " If you stop the
Portuguese slave trade, you will gratify me beyond
measure." Mr. Hayward asked again if anything could
be done for himself. "No, he could not think of any-
* In his last letter to Sir Roderick Murchison, which I had the
honour to convey to England, Livingstone reminded Sir Roderick of
his promise, but Sir Hoderick was dead, and all his estates and property
had been bequeathed to his nephew Sir Kenneth.
MEMOIB OF LIVINGSTONE.
XXVH
thing ;" and it was not until Mr. Hayward had departed,
that he began to reflect on the very pointed manner the
lawyer had spoken to him, and to think he had lost the
opportunity to provide for his children, and to give them
a proper education.
The money necessary for this Expedition was subscribed
by Mr. J Y , who, for the sake of his friend of
college days, generously furnished him with £1,000. The
Government also gave £500, while the Koyal Geographi-
cal Society subscribed £500. Besides the generous sum
which he placed at Doctor Livingstone's disposal, as he
was about to set out on his Expedition, Mr. J Y
promised that whenever he lacked funds, he, Mr. Y ,
would supply him to any amount, and almost commanded
him not to refuse himself anything he wanted, but to
draw at once on him. Mr. Y • has amply fulfilled his
promise ; and during the great traveller's absence has
supplied the father to his family. For all his kindness
to himself and children, Livingstone's last words about
Mr. Y - were " May God in his infinite goodness re-
ward him !'' Amen !
Dr. Livingstone left England to set out on his last Ex-
pedition on the 14th of August, 1865, accompanied by his
daughter Agnes as far as Paris. From Paris he went to
Bombay, and there commenced his preparations. Thence
he proceeded to Zanzibar, accompanied by two boys he had
picked up in the Shire country — Chumah and Wekotani —
as well as by a number of men from the Johanna Islands
(one of the Comoro Isles), a Sepoy Havildar, a few
enlisted Sepoys and some Wasawahili.
c 2
xxvai
MEMOIB OF LIVINGSTONE.
On the 28th of March, 1866, the great explorer and his
motley followers crossed over to the mainland, from the
island of Zanzibar, and at once started for the interior by
way of the Kiver Kovuma. As he journeyed on, letters
came from him occasionally, informing the delighted
public of his progress, and of the extremely interesting
incidents which one would naturally suppose would
characterise his march to the interior. But in December
of the same year the leader of the Johanna men who had
accompanied the Doctor arrived at Zanzibar with a tale
which saddened all who heard it — that Dr. Livingstone,
the great African traveller, had been murdered on the
shores of Lake Nyassa, by a band of the Ma-zitus. The
tale bore such an appearance of truth about it that very
few people indeed had the slightest idea of doubting it.
As it may be interesting to know what Musa's tale was,
the following account from the ' Times of India ' will not
be out of place, if published here : —
The hopes raised by the news of the rumoured safety of Dr. Living-
stone have speedily been dispelled, and there can no longer be any
doubt that he was Idlled by a savage of the Mafite tribe. The nar-
rative of the Sepoy belonging to the Marine Battalion (21st Native
Infantry) who Ibrmed one of the Doctor's escort, and who arrived
from Zanzibar in the Gazelle on the 14th of May, turns out to be
altogether inaccurate; and, substantially, the tale told by Musa is
proved correct.
The Kadir Shtih, a vessel of war belonging to the Sultan of Zanzibar,
at present used as a trader, reached Bombay on the loth of May in
cargo; and from information we obtained on board we are enabled to
give a more detailed account of the circumstances in connection with
the melancholy story of the Doctor's fate than has yet been published.
The Nadir mhah left Zanzibar on the forenoon of the 28th of March,
so that the news she brings is nearly a month later than that brought
MEMOIR OP LIVINGSTONE.
xxix
by the Gazelle, and three days later than the last despatch received
from Zanzibar by the Bombay Government.
Dr. Livingstone took his departure iiom Zanzibar in March, 1866,
and was conveyed by her Majesty's ship Penguin to Mikindany, near
the mouth of the Rovuma River. 'I"he expedition consisted of Dr. Living-
stone and thirty-five men, ten of whom were natives of Johanna, one
of the Cornoio Islands, thirteen Africans, and twelve Se[x>ys of the
Bombay Marine Battalion. It was thought by Dr. Livinjzstone that
these Africans would be of service to him on his journey into the
interior. The Africans were formerly slaves, who had been liberated
and educated in the Bombay Presidency. There was no other European
in the party exce]it the Doctor himself. The beasts taken were— six
camels, four buffaloes from Bombay, five asses, and two mules, and
among the baggage there were torage, gunpowder, &c. The Ptnguin
started from Zanzibar on the 19th of March, 1866, and the men in the
Doctor's train and the beasts were taken from Zanzibar in a large dhow,
which was towed by the Penguin. In three days the Penguin arrived off
the Eovuma River, but, owing to the strong current, the dhow could not
be got into the mouth of the stream. The expedition then made for
Mikindany Bay, about thirty miles northward of Cape Delgoa, where
Dr. Livingstone and his party were successfully landed on the 28th of
March.
The Johanna men, who had been engaged for the Doctor's service by
Mr. Sundley, the English consul at Johanna, were considered preferable
for the service to Zanzibar men. On the march into the interior the
Hepoys seem to have suffered much, and Dr. Livingstone thought it
neces.siiry to leave them on the route to enable them to return to
Zanzibar. In returning they had but little to eat, and ran great risk of
.starving. One by one all the Sepoys fell ill, and the sickness that
attacked the havildar was fatal, as he died of dysentery. None of the
twelve Sepoys who started with the Doctor reached Nyas.sa, and those
who survived returned to Zanzibar in August or September. In
October last the Johanna men made their appearance in Zanzibar, and
presented themselves before Dr. Seward, the British Consul, when for
the first time the intelligence was received of the disaster which had
befallen Dr. Livingstone. From the accounts of these Johanna men it
would .seem that the expedition reached Lake Nyassa in safety and
crossed the Lake. They pushed on westward, and in the course of
some time reached Goomani, a fishing village on a river. This would
appear to have been on the second or third week of August last. The
XXX
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
people of Goomani warned Dr. Livingstone that the Mafites, a wander-
ing predatory tribe, were out on a plundering expedition, and that it
would not be safe to continue the journey. But the dangers thus
presented to view were not sufficient to deter a man who had braved so
many before ; and, treating the warnings as but of slight moment, he
crossed the river in canoes the next morning, with liis baggage and
train of followers, in safety. Previously to this time the whole of the
baggage animals had perished on the journey from the want of water;
and on reaching the further side of the river the baggage had to be
carried by the Doctor's men. Being a fast walker. Dr. Livingstone
kept some distance in advance of the baggage-encumbered men ; and
Musa only, or Musa and a few others of the party, kept up with
him. The march had continued some distance, when Dr. Livingstone
saw three armed men ahead, and thereupon he called out to Musa,
" 'J'he Mafites are out, after all," or some such words as those, and these
seem to have been the last he uttered. 'J'he three Mafites were armed
with bows and arrows and other weapons, and they immediately com-
menced hostilities. Evidently the men must have closed on the Doctor,
when, finding matters desperate, he drew his revolver and shot two of
his assailants; but while thus disposing of the two, the third managed
to get behind Dr. Livingstone, and with one blow from an axe clove in
his head. 'I he wound was mortal, but the assassin quickly met his
own doom, for a bullet from Musa's musket passed through his body,
and the murderer fell dead beside his victim. Musa .«tates that the
Doctor died instantly, and that, finding the Mafites were out, he ran
back to the baggage jiai ty, and told them that their master had been
killed. The baggage was hastily abandoned, and the Johanna men,
Musa, and the rest of the party sought safety by a hasty flight, which,
according to Musa's story, they continued until suuset, when they'
reached a secure hiding-place in the jungle. 'J'hey held a consultation,
and it is alleged that Musa prevailed on them to go back to look after
the body of their late master, and that on regaining the place where the
murder had been perpetrated they found Dr. Livingstone's body lying
there. The Doctor's watch bad been carried away, together with his
clothes, the only article that remained on the body being the trouser.s.
Musa and the men who had accompanied him " scratched " a hole in
the ground just deep enough to bury the body in, and there left, in a
far remote and unknown spot, the remains of the self-denying and noble
man who, all too -soon for his country and for the cause of civilization,
but not too soon for him to have earned an enduring fame, found his
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
ZXXl
end at the hand of an ignoble savage. The corpses of the three Mafites
were lyins; on the spot where they had fallen ; but no nttention was
l)aid to them by Musa, who, on searching, could find no memento ot
his late master to bring with him to Zanzibar. In making their way
to the coast great hardships were experienced by Musa and the other
survivors of the party, who were in such a starving condition that they
had to live upon the berries the}' could gather by the way, until they
fell in with an Arab caravan, which entertained them kindly. They
were thus enabled to reach Kilwa, in the territory of the Sultan of
Zanzibar. They were here provided with clothes and necessaries, and
sent on to Zanzibar, at which place they reported all the circumstances
to Dr. Seward, by whom they were closely examined. Dr. Kirk, of
Zanzibar, also questioned them carefully, and found that their state-
ment of the country through which they alleged they had passed,
correctly answered to the leading featiu-cs of the wilds through which
Dr. Livingstone had intended to track liis way.
1'he Johanna men were taken to Johanna, and carefully interrogated
by the Sultan, as well as by Mr. Sundley, and their answers tallied
with Musa's naiTative. The Johanna men asked Mr. Sundley to pay
them the nine months' wages due to them for their services with the
expedition, and, as they were entitled to what they demanded, the
money was paid to them. Some of the men who went away with the
expedition, and who were not accounted for as having died, were still
missing.
On the 26th of December Dr. Seward left Zanzibar in Her Majesty's
ship Wasp, and proceeded to Kllwa, but he was unable to obtain
any fresh information, or to gather adilitional details.
Her Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar, Dr. G. E. Seward,
a sincere friend of the traveller, who was thus reputed to
be lost, communicated to the Foreign Office the in-
formation which he received as follows :—
Zanzibar, December 10th, 1866.
My Lord,
I send you the saddest news. Dr. Livingstone in his despatch
from Ngomano, informed your Lord.ship that he stood " on the threshold
ot the unexplored." Yet, as if that which should betide him had
already thrown its shadow, he added :— " I have but little to say of the
future."
XSXU MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
My Lord, if the report of some fugitives from Lis party be truu, tliis
brave and good man has " crossed the threshold of the unexplored " — he
has confronted the future and will never return. He was slain, so it is
alleged, during a sudden and unprovoked encounter with these very
Zulus of whom he says, in his despatch, that they had laid waste the
country round about liim, and had "swei)t away the food from above
and in the ground." Witli an escort reduced to twenty, by desertion,
death, and dismissals, he had traversed, as 1 believe, that terra incognita
between the conflueiice of tlie Loende and Rovuma Rivers, at Nsjomano,
and the eastern or north-eastern littoral of Lake Nvassa; had crossed
the lake at some point as yet unascertained; had reached a station
named Kompoonda or Mapoonda, on its western (probably its north-
western) shore, and was pushing west or north-west, into dangerous
ground, when between Marenga and Mukliosowa a band of implacable
savages stopped the way, a mixed horde of Zulus, or Mafit« and Nyassa
folk. The Nyassa folk were armed with bow and arrow, the Zulus
with the traditional shield, broad-bladed sjiears, and axes. With
Livingstone there were nine or ten muskets ; his .Johanna ujen were
resting with their loads far in the rear.
The Mafite instantly came on to fight ; there was no parley, no
avoidance of the combat ; they came on with a rush, with war cries and
rattling on their shields their spears. As Livingstone and his party
raised their pieces, tlieir onset was for a moment checked, but only for
a moment. Livingstone fired, and two Zulus were shot dead (his boys
fired too, but their fire was harmless) ; he was in the act of reloading
when three Mafite leaped U[ion him through the smoke. There was no
resistance— there could be none— and one cruel axe-cut from behind
him put him out of life. He fell, and when he fell, his terror-stricken
escort fled, hunted by the Mafite. One, at least, of the fugitives
escaped ; aud he, the eye-witness, it is who tells the tale— Ali Musa,
chief of his escort of porters.
The party had left the western shores of Nyassa about five days.
ITiey had started from Kompoonda, on the lake's borders (they left
the Havildar of Sepoys there dying of dysentery ; Livingstone had
dismissed the other Sepoys of the Rombay 21st, at Mataka), aud
had rested at Marenga, where Livingstone was cautioned not to
advance. The next station was Mahlivoora; they were traversing
a flat country, broken by small hills, and abundantly wooded.
Indeed, the scene of the tragedy so soon to be consummated, would
appear to have been an open forest glade. Livingstone, as usual, led
MEMOIE OF LIVINGSTONE.
XXXUl
the way, his nine or ten unpractir.ed musketeers at his heels. All
Musa had nearly come up with them, having left his own Johanna
men resting with their loads far in the rear. Suddenly he heard
Livingstone warn the hoys that the Me-zitus were coming. The boys
in turn beckoned Musa to press forward. Musa saw the crowd here
and there between the trees.
He had just gained the party and sunk down behind a tree to
deliver his own fire, when his leader fell. Musa fled for his life along
the path he had come. Meeting his Johanna men, who threw down
their loads, and in a body really passed Musa, his escape, and that of
his party verges on the marvellous. However, at sunset, they, in great
fear, left their forest refuge, and got back to the place where they
hoped to find their bag!j;age. It was gone, and then, with increasing
dread, they crept to where the slain traveller lay.
Near him, in front, lay the grim Zulus who were killed under
his sure aim ; here and there lay scattered some four dead fugitives of
the expedition. That one blow had killed him outright, he had
no other wound but this teirible gash ; it must have gone— from their
description— til rou^ih the neck and spine up to the throat in front, and
it had nearly' decapitated him. Death came mercifully in its instant
suddenness, for David Livingstone was ever readv.
They found him stripped of his upper clothing, the Ma-zitus had
respected hiin when dead. 1'hey dug, with some stakes, a shallow
grave, and hid from the stai li^ilit, the .stricken temple of a grand spirit—
the body of an apostle, who.se maityrdom should make sacred the
shores of tiiat sea which his labours made known to us, and which now,
Ijaptized with his life's blood, men should henceforth know as ' Lake
Livingstone.'
The Johanna men made the most of their way back to Kompoonda
or Mapoonda, not venturing near any village or station. They lost
them.scives in the jungle, and were fourteen days on their way. At
Kompoonda they witnessed the end ol the Haviidar of Sei)oys, Bombay
2l8t Native Infantry. He alone of all the Indian.s was faithful ; on the
threshold ol this Consulate at Zanzibar, he pledged himself at the
moment of starting never to forsake his leader — nor did he ; to the last
he struggled on, worn with dysentery, but broke down hopt^lessiy
on the road to Marenga. A day or two later and he would have shared
his leader's fate.
Insubordinate, lazy, impracticable, and useless, Livingstone had
dismissed the other Sei)oys at Mataka. Hiid they been faithful like
MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
their Havildar, I should not have had to inscribe a record of this sad
happening. Their unfitness for African travel might have been
predicated. At Kompoonda the Johanna men were deprived of their
weapons by the Chief, who also kept tlie Havildar's. Here they joined
an Arab slave-cavavan, re-crossed the Nyassa, and made for Kilwa, the
great slave outlet on the Zanzibar coast.
But here again, and where least expected, they encountered the
Mafite. They had reached Keepareygree, eiglit days south-west of
Kilwa, when the ajipearance of a band of these savages scattered the
caravan. Abandoning ivory, slaves — their all — the Arab leaders
thought but of saving their lives. The Johanna men again made their
escapv?, and reached Kilwa, whence by the kindness of the Customs
people they were at once sent on to Zanzibar, They arrived here on
the 6th of December.
It will be gratifying to the many and true friends of Dr. Livingstone
to learn that when, ou his sad end being known, the British flag was
lowered at this Consulate, the French, the American, and Hanseatic
flags were at once flown half-mast high, the Consuls paying a
six)ntaneous tribute to his memory — an example shortly followed by
all the foreign vessels in the harbour. The Sultan's flag was also
lowered.
I must reserve other details for a subsequent letter ; but I may
state that no papers, effects, or relics of Livingstone are likely to
be recovered.
G. Edward Seward.
At first this sad intelligence was believed throughout
Europe and America, but the keen strong sense of Sir
Eoderick Murchison discovered flaws in the ingenious
fabrication of Musa, and by his resolute denial, and
utter disbelief, which he lost no time to make public
through the ' Times,' he made many converts to his
view of Musa's story. Dotibt grew fast in many
minds, and doubt finally became conviction. But to
establish conviction in the popular mind, Sir Roderick
and the Society induced the Government to despatch a
boat expedition to the Zambezi, whence an ascent to the
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
XXXV
Shire and Lake Nyassa, to near the spot where the
traveller was reported to be killed, was easy.
Volunteers were called for, and hundreds of resolute
men offered their services at once to command the Ex-
pedition, out of whom were selected Mr. Edward Daniel
Young, a warrant officer in Her Majesty's Navy, and
Lieutenant Henry Faulkner of the 17th Lancers.
Mr. Young on taking command of the Search Expedi-
tion, requested that a steel boat should be given him, so
constructed as to be disconnected into portable sections,
whereby the difficulty of passing the Murchison Falls of
the Shire might be surmounted by postage overland.
This lirst Expedition left England on the 11th of June,
1867, to prosecute the search for Livingstone. In the
following letter, Mr. Young reports how he succeeded in
his enterprise.
To Sir Rudi rlclc Murchison, Bart., K.C.Ii., &c.
Sib,
I have the honour to lay beforo you a brief outline of the pro-
ceedings of the Expedition under my command, sent out to Africa by
the Royal Geographical Society, for the purpose of ascertaining the
truth or falsehood of the reported death of Dr. Livingstone. 1 ara
happy to inform yon that our efforts have been crowned with success,
and I have satisfactory evidence that Dr. Livingstone was not murdered
by the Mazitu, nor by any other tribe, at the place named by the
Johanna men, but had gone on in safety far beyond. I liave also
satisfactory evidence that the Johanna men deserted shortly alter
leaving Mareiiga, returning by the same route as they had gone.
But I must first be^in the narrative from the time of our landin" at
the mouth of the Zambesi. Immediately on landing I succeeded in
gettmg a negro crew to take the boats up as far as Sliupanga, where I
arrived on the 2nd of August. I at once engaged a fresh crew to go on
to Chibisa, and the next day started for Senna. Arrived there on the
6th; found the Portuguese authorities very obliging; made what
xxxvi
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
arrangements were thought necessary, and proceeded on the next day.
I learned from the Portuguese that the Mazitu were in full force on the
Shire, and were threatening Chibisa, so I arranged with the authorities
at Senna to send on to me at Chibisa (should 1 require them) 100 men
fearina as the Mizitu were there, I should not be able to "et the
Makololo to accompany me.
We arrived at Chibisa on the 17th, and found that the reports about
the Mazitu having been there were quite true, and that they had been
down in force to the left bank, robbing and burning the houses,
murdering some of the people they caught, and taking others prisoners.
The Makololo put off in canoes from the opposite bank and shot three
of them. Of course I was quite unprepared to meet the Mazitu in this
part of the country.
The Makololo, as well as the people who were of the old mission
party, received us gladly. 1 requested the Makololo to attend the next
morning, which they did, when I acquainted them with the object of
my mission. They agreed to accompany me on certain conditions,
which 1 agreed to. One was that I should leave some ammunition
behind with those that remained, so that should the Mazitu attempt to
cross the river below the Cataracts they would be well able to encounter
them. After arrangements had been completed, we started on the 19th
for the Cataracts; arrived the same day, and at once began takin<: the
boat to pieces. Hitherto all had gone on well, but no sooner had we
got the boat to jiieces, and everything was ready for the journey over-
land, than fresh reports about the Mazitu reached the Makololo, which
very much daunted them, and had al.so a tendency to lower our spirits,
for without their help we could do nothing, as it was not only their
help that we required, but also that of their people, they being the
chiefs of the country round about. After a good deal of persuasion the
whole atlair was settled to our satisfaction, and on the evening of the
liSrd the Makololo appeared in force with about loO men.
We started next morning with the boat, provisions, luggage, &c.,
making in all 180 loads. The men worked well, and we airived with
everything in good order at Pomfunda, above the Cataracts, in four and
a half days. The heat during the journey was excessive, even for
Africa. We at once commenced rebuilding the boat, and everything
appiared to be going on well when fresh reports reached us about tiie
Mazitu. We were visited by some of the Ajawa chiefs who had been
driven out of their own country, and were obliged to cross the river to
Bave themselves from being miudered. There was an encampment,
MEMOm OF LIVrs-GSTONE.
xxxvii
close by the place where we were building the boat, of about 200
Ajawas, the sole survivors of the once powerful people under the chief
Joey.
Every day fresh reports reached us, and the JIaki.lolo wanted to
return home, which of course I could not consent to. At this place we
first heard from a native of a white man having passed through
Maponda at the south end of Lake Xyassa. He stated that he had
seen him, and gave a description of his dress, &c.
Launched the boat on the 30th, and started up the river next
morning. The Makololo not working well, and making every ex-
cuse, not being well, &c., thinking perliaps we would turn back.
They stated that the risk was too great, that there was little chance
of our ever returning, but as they had gone so far they would go on
and die with us; of course all was agreed to. As we proceeded on we
found vast numbers of Ajawas and Macldnkas on the left bank, living
in temporary huts, who had retreated before the overwhelming numbere
of ^Slazitii. Reached tlie small lake Pamalombe on the evening of the
5th of !Sej)ti'mber.
During our passage up tiie river heard several rei^rts that a white
man a twelvemonth before had stopped at Majwnda for some time,
having cro.s.sed from the opjiosite side, and that after resting there some
time he had gone on in a westerly direction. I now felt almost con-
vinced that it must have been Livingstone, but I almost feared to stop
there, for I felt certain had the Makololo been satisfied that it was him
they would have gone no further; for my agreement with them was,
that as soon as we bad sati.sfactory evidence that the Doctor had gone
on in safety, ur that he liad been killed in the way described by the
Johanna men, I would return with them immediatc-ly. But now, as it
appeared that he had passed over the south end of Nyassa instead of
the north, I wanted to find out where he had first struck the lake.
The Makololo stated that they were certain that if a white man had
been killed, or had died within a month's journey of where we were, we
should certainly have heard of it before we got thus far.
The next morning crossed the Pamalombe, but miM not find a
l^ssage in to Maponda, owing to the quantity of rushes and grass, and
it blowing very hard at the time we made for the river. Here again we
met great numbers of natives, who appeared very hostile. They lined
the banks with their guns, and demanded that we should come into
them. The Makololo appeared very much afraid, .so I laid the boat
to, to await the approach of two armed canoes that had shoved off from
XXXVUl
MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
the shore. I soon made matters right with them, and shortly after-
wards entered Lake Nyassa, and slept the first night on the Rock
Boasuam.
Started the next morning with a fine breeze for the east side of the
lake, steering as near as possible for the Arab crossing-place, as laid
down by Livingstone. We had not run more than two hours before a
heavy gale began to blow, and for three hours we had to run along the
coast to try and find shelter, but the rocks and breakers met us at
every hand. Tliis proved the finishing stroke to the Makololos' courage
who all laid down at the bottom of the boat to die, and although the
boat was constantly shi[)ping heavy seas, they refused to bale out the
water. The steel boat behaved well, but was far too deep for the
stormy Lake Nyassa. At length after tlnee houi's' weary watcliing, we
succeeded in finding a sheltered spot where we stopped to dry our
clothes. Only one native appeared at this i)lace, who when he saw us
first was much frightened ; but as soon as wc stated we were English
he willingly came towards us. He told us an Englishman had passed
through his village a year ago, and that he had come from the
Arab settlement, and had gone south to Maponda. Started again
for the former place, but found the distance too great to reach
before dark ; ]mt into a small sandy bay, where we found some natives,
fishing.
I must here remark that at any place, on first visiting it, no one
was allowed by me to get out of the boat, escejit myself, Mr. Faulkner,
and the interpreter. I soon got into conversation with these men, when
they spoke of a white n-an who had been there, without being asked.
They stated that he had first made that place coming from Makata,
had stopped nine or ten days to rest, and then went north to the Arab
settlement to try and get them to carry him and his party across the
lake, but aft<;r waiting there some time he returned, making his way
south for Makata. They described his dress, what luggage he had,
imitated him taking .sights, and sleeping under a mosquito curtain, and
stated that he had a dog with him named Chetane. They said the
head-man of the carriers was named Musa ; two of the boys spoke tiic
Ajawa and Mananja language, and were named Juma and Wako.
They told us what barter goods he traded with ; on being shown
an album with ntimbers of likenesses, they at once recognised the one
of Livingstone. That there were nine of Musa's countrymen with
him, who did not speak either the Ajawa or Mananja language. He
did not buy slaves or ivory ; he had come to see tlie country. Besides
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
XXXIX
numerous other things that left no doubt on my mind that it was
Livingstone.
Next day we arrived at the Arab settlement, where we were re-
ceived kindly, and found all that I heard before was quite correct.
Livingstone waited at this place nine or ten days for the Arab boat
which did not arrive, so he started south again, and they traced him
as tar as Maponda. I visited the house Livingstone lived in during his
stay, and I purchased a few articles (all English make) that he liad
traded with, such as small round looking-glasses, a knife, razor, iron
spoons, &c. Of course most of the calicoes, &c., were already worn out,
but the chief still possessed an Indian manui'actured scarf tliat Living-
stone had presented, to him on leaving. I sent two of tlie most trust-
worthy Makololo with my ever faithful interpreter (whom I brought
from the Cape) on the road to JIakata to see if that was tlie road he hud
come, while we again went south, making short marches inland, to try
and find the route the Johanna men took in going back, as they had
not visited this place or the last. We obtained ether trifling articles in
the shape of barter goods, and while waiting for the return of the
Makololo obtained from a chief further south an English Common
Prayer Book, wliich he stated had been left behind by the Englishman
in the hou.se he had slept at.
On the 13th the searching party returned, having gone two days'
march on the road to Makata. Livingstone had come that way. They
brought back some glasses, fish-hooks, &c., that he had traded with.
They would have gone lurther, but were ill-treated by some of the
natives and driven back : their rea&on for so doing, they said, was that
the Englishman had brought fighting into the country, for the Mizitu
had been killing their people ever since he left.
Sept. 14 <A. — Started for the opposite side of the lake, made for
Chinsamba's. Although we started with little or no wind, it again
blew a gale before we reached tiie opposite shore. We found that
Chinsamba had been killed some time since, and nothing remained
of his village. Skeletons now met our eyes in great numbers,
whenever we landed along this side. Saw several natives the first
day, both Ajawas and Mananja; and those who had not seen the white
man further south had heard of him, but not in a single instance was
he spoken of as being dead. I wished to learn, by coming over this
side, in what direction he had gone after leaving Maponda. We had
not cross(-d long when we saw a man who had lielped to carry the
Englishman's luggage for two days. He described him :is before. This
xl
MEMOIB OF LIVINGSTONE.
man had been living inland some distance, but had been driven out by
the Ajavva. He pointed in a north-westerly direction, and stated it was
five days' journey oflf, which, of course, would be very much more from
Marenga.
Our progress south was slow, owing to the heavy gales of wind. On
our way we met several who had seen the Englishman, and more than
one had helped to carry his luggage from \ illage to village, and there
was not in all their reports the slightest variation. They were not all
from the same place, but they all maintained that he had gone on in a
north-westerly direction towards the Loangwa. These natives were
full of complaints about their neighbours, and would only have been too
ready to inform against each other if Livingstone had come to an un-
timely end at either of their hands, and they all maintained that the
Mazitu had never been in that part of the country.
Sept. \%th. — Reached Marenga. Seeing the boat ajiproach the shore
they lined the beach with their guns, &c. ; but, as soon as we told
them we were English, they laid their arms down and welcomed us.
I at once asked to see Marenga, when I was conducted up to his house
by one of his wives. Marenga rushed towards me, and, seizing me by
the hand, shook it heartily, saying, " Where have you come from, and
where is your brother that was here last year ?" and as soon as I told
him I had come to follow him, he began and told me all he knew of
him. He said he had come there fiom Maponda, had stojjped there two
days; he was very kind to him, making him presents, &c., and he in
return gave him what food he required. Livingstone gave him medi-
cine, which was done up in doses; the i)apers he used ibrnied part of a
' Nautical Almanack ' for the year 18G(). He lent Livingstone four
canoes to take himself and luggage across the marsh, while the Johanna
men carried the remainder round. He had seen him before ; he said he
saw him when he was up here with a boat a long time ago. He traced
him a month's journey oft', giving the names of the places in the same
order as I had previously heard. He was quite willing to give me any
guides to go to Maksuro, or where it once was ; but he stated, as I had
previously heard, that Maksuro had been driven out and killed by the
Ajawa, and his i)eople almost annihilated ; as also had C66mo, two
days' journey beyoiid. Marenga stated that the Johanna men returned
alter being absent two days. They gave as their reason for returning
that they had merely agreed with Livingstone to take his goods as far
only as they liked. The head man stilted that he had been in that
direction before with him, and had met tho Mazitu, and that they were
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Xli
going no further To prove their independence they passed themselves
olf as Arabs. JIarenga gave them food, and they slept there one night,
and then set out tor Maponda.
ilarenga is a Babisa, and rules over a populous district ; he made us
a present of a bullock and as much native lood for our crew as we re-
quired, and he invited us to remain a long time. He has a great
number of wives — I and ilr. Faulkner being introduced to forty, who
were all sitting round him.
Having satisfied myself thus far, 1 asked him if he thought it possible
that Livingstone coukl have died a month's journey off, and he not know
it ? He at once said No, and had he dud three months off he should
have heard of it ; but as soon as 1 told him I had heard that the Mazitu
had killed him not tar distant, he laughed, and said he told me he was
going the way to avoid them, and that the Mazitu had never been in
that part of the country described b\' the Johanna men.
Marenga then sent tor a man who had gone live days" journey with
him, and when he returned the Johanna men had gone back. I had
previously heard the .same account from the same man.
The Makoloio now got very impatient to return home, and nothing
was talked of day or night but the Mizitn. They stated that they had
fulfilled their engagement, but 1 very nmch wished to try and get to the
north end of the lake. But they would not listen to it. No induce-
ment 1 could offer would persuade them to go; so there was no alter-
native but to go round to Ma]>()nda, •j.vt what information I could, and
return.
Marenga was full ol complaints about his neighbours, and what he
wished for more than anything else was medicine lor his guns, so that
if the Ajawas came to tight him his shot would kill some one every
time they were fired. We, being satisfied that Livingstone had gone
on in safet) , started on the 20th for Maponda, calling at the several
places along the coast to gain what information I could ; but all I ob-
tained only went to confirm what I had previously heaid.
Arrived at MaiKjuda on the 25fh. 'i'he chief himself was not at
home, having gone on a trading e.\i)ediliou, leaving his mother to act
during his absence. Immediately on arrival 1 sent a messenger to
acquaint her of arrival and my w isli to see her. She 8ix)n came, with
a train of followers, bringing us pre-sents of native foot! and beer. She
stated that an En>;lishmiin had been there a year before, had stopped
three weeks to rest his piirty, and then left for Marenga, stopped there
a day or two, and then left to go to the Loaugwa, calling at Maksura,
d
xlii
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Coomo, &c. One of the boys was left behind here, being unable to
travel, having very bad feet and le^s, but had now quite recovered and
gone with Maponda. She stated that the Englishman had left a paper
with him, but that he had taken it with him on the journey. She
brought some books belonging to him, one of which had his name on
(" Wakitane, from Dr. Wilson, Dec, 1864," &c.), which she allowed
me to take. The Johanna men returned this way, stop{ied one day,
and proceeded on. She swore, in the presence of us all, that Maponda
did not take away their guns, neither did any of the party die there.
She stated that the Englishman was great friends with her son, and
that if any one had molested him (even Marenga, as strong as he was)
lie would have gone to war with him. The old lady laughed at the
idea of Livingstone having been killed by the Mazitii. Mr. Faulkner
(juestioned her regarding the Havildar. She gave a description of a
man with straight black hair, with the top of his head shaved, &c.
Mr. Faulkner states it answers the description of the Indian very well.
Marenga also told us the same, and I felt convinced had he died there
we should have heard it from some of the numbers I questioned on the
subject.
I'he Makololo now told me that if I intended going into the lake
again, they were not going with me ; and, being entirely dependent on
these men, there was no alternative but to return and to get their aid
in carrying the boat back. So, having got all the news 1 could at
Maponda, I decided on going to Makfita ; but although I offered a large
amount for a guide, no one would attempt to cross the river. They
stated that Makata had taken to the mountains for fear of the Mazitu,
and they were afraid of being cut off.
Started for the Cataracts on the 27th. Found the same state of
things alung the river as on coming up. Arrived at the Cataracts on
the 2nd of October, and commenced taking the boat to pieces. Mean-
while we heard from Chibisa that the road was clear, and that the Mazitu
had made Chore, not far from the lower Shire, their headquarters.
Oct. 8th. — Started for (Jhibisa with the boat, luggage, &c.; where
we arrived on the 12th. We found the boats safe, and the men left
with them in very fair health. Again built the steel boat, and while
there n'pau ed the graves of the late missionaries who died there.
22nd. — Started from Chibisa.
26tli. — Arrived at the Rno, stopped and repaired the grave of the
late Bishoj) Mackenzie. Arrived at the Kongone on the 11th of
November, but on our way down we visited Senna.
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
xliii
H.M.S. Bdfoon arrived ou the 2nd of December.
Arrived at the Cape on the evening of the 17th.
Embarked on board the mail-steamer ou the 19th.
In conclusion, 1 must again state that this is but a brief outline of
our proceedings. 1 should have liked to have done more by going to
the north end of the lake, but was jirevented by circumstances un-
foreseen when 1 left England ; for, had the Mazitu not threatened
Chibisa, 1 should have had little difBculty in getting the Makololo to
accompany me. Under the circumstances, I hope that what has been
done will meet with your approval, as well as that of the Royal Geo-
graphical Society.
I have the honour to be, Sir, your very obedient servant,
E. D. Young.
The report proves that though Mr. Edward Young did
not see Dr. Livingstone, he procured ample and satis-
factory evidence that Musa's story was a tissue of the
grossest falsehoods, and for his gallant service the Society
tendered him unanimously their thanks.
In 1808, letters dated February 1867 from Bemba (Lake
Bangweolo), were received from Dr. Livingstone by Sir
Eoderick Murchison, which, when read, elicited bursts
of enthusiasm from Sir Samuel Baker, and the other
geographical associates of the illustrious explorer. In
these he stated he had been staying a long time with
Mataka, a chief who rules over a division of the Ajawa tribe.
The reasons for his long silence were that he was
unable, after leaving the shores of the Nyassa, to despatch
letters to England, until his arrival at Bemba in 10'
10' S. lat. 31° 50' long., where he found a party of
Zanzibar slave-traders (See ' How I found Livingstone,'
Chap. IX., Life in Unyanyembe (continued), Saturday,
August 12th, 1871), one of whom was with Speke.
On the 8th July, 1808, Livingstone wrote another
d 2
xliv
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
letter from uear Lake Bangweolo. The time between
these two letters was occupied in convincing himself, by a
series of journeys south-west of Lake Tanganika, that the
Chambezi River, emptying into Lake Bangweolo, was the
same river w-hich flowed into Lake Moero.
On leaving the valley of the Loangwa, which he crossed
west of Nyassa, on his way to the Babisa, and to Lunda,
he climbed up to a plateau which had an altitude of from
three thousand to six thousand feet above sea level, and
which extended over an area of about three hundred and
fifty miles square. This plateau was generally covered
with dense or open forest, was undulating, sometimes
cropping up into hills, had a rich soil, and was well
watered by streams. East of the plateau were the up-
lands of Usango, and the west was bounded by the Kone
Mountains. As he advanced north, the streams hitherto
emptying themselves into the valley of the Loangwa,
changed their course with a general trend towards the
north-west, or towards the Chambezi, which he believed —
his convictions strengthened by much travel north-west
and east — to be the headwaters of the Nile. The river
Chambezi henceforth became an object of great interest to
him, inasmuch as it ran from a plateau to the eastward,
west into Lake Bangweolo, thence to Lake Moero, under
different names, and further north it was reported to run
into Lake Ulenge, after a course of some five hundred or
six hundred miles.
The above is the pith of his geographical discoveries
and report on the watershed of the country between
Lukes Tanganika and Nyassa, up to July, 1868.
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
xlv
On the 30th May, 1869, a letter was received by the
British Consul at Zanzibar, from Dr. Livingstone, who
was at Ujiji.
This letter complains of the disreputable conduct of
the driver of certain buffaloes which were sent to
Livingstone, and also requests the Consul to be good
enough to send to him at Ujiji thirty pieces of sheeting,
forty pieces of blue cloth, and four hundred and twenty
pounds of red coral beads, besides a few pairs of shoes.
He summarises the work remaining for him to accomplish
west of the Tanganika, in the following words : —
As to the work to be done by me, it is ouly to connect tlie :;oiirces
which 1 have discovered from five hundred to .seven hundred miles
south of Speke and Baker's with their Nile. The volume of water
which flows north from lat. 12" S. is so large, I suspect that I have
been working at the sources of the Congo as well as those of the Nile
1 have to go down the eastern line of drainage to Baker's turning-point.
Tanganika, Nzige Chowambe (Baker's V) are one water, and the head
of it is three hundred miles south of this. The western and central
lines of drainage converge into an uuvisited lake west or south-west of
this. The outflow of this, whether to the Cuugo or the Nile, I have to as-
certain. The people west of this, called Manyeuia, are cannibals, if Arabs
speak truly. I may have to go there flrst, and down Tanganika, if I
come out uneaten, and find my new ssquad from Zanzibar. I earnestly
hope that you will do what you can to help me with the goods and
men. £400, to be sent by Mr. Young, must surely have come to you
through Fleming and Co.'
Sir Roderick, remarking upon this letter after it was
read to the Geographical Society, said, " If Livingstone
should he supplied with carriers and provisions, he will, I
doubt not, follow these waters, and thus being led on
perhaps to the C(mgo, we may be once more subjected to
a long and anxious period of suspense."
xlvi
MEMOIR OP LIVINGSTONE.
The letter of the 30th May, 1869, was the last received
in Europe direct from Dr. Livingstone, until the autumn
of 1872.
In his address of Nov. 8th, 1869, Sir Eoderick Murchi-
son, the ever staunch and enduring friend of Dr. Living-
stone, says : —
In his wonderful labours Livingstone has not merely been the
Cliristian Missionary and Geographical Explorer. He was also ac-
credited as Her Majesty's Consul to all the native states in the interior.
(See the ' Gazette ' of March 24th, 1865, p. 1676.) Such being the
public mission with which the great traveller was entrusted, let us now
confidently believe that Her Majesty's Government will authorize, on
his return, the grant of a suitable pension to the man whose labours
have shed so much renown on Britain, and that our gracious Sovereign,
who has, 1 know, taken the deepest interest in his career, will reward
him with some appropriate tokeii of lier goodwill.
Every now and then driblets of news came from
Zanzibar, but they were merely vague echoes of Arab
opinions and reports, all of which, however, described him
to be somewhere west of Tanganika in a state of utter
destitution. Few people remained in the belief that
Livingstone was alive, despite the publication of his
letters of 1867-68-69; nay, the firm belief among the
largest number was that the illustrious man had passed
the threshold of the unexplored, thjit bourn whence no
traveller returns.
To resolve all doubts and anxieties respecting the fate
of Dr. Livingstone, Mr. James Gordon Bennett, junr.
(son of the then James Gordon Bennett, sen., proprietor
of the 'New York Herald,' a daily newspaper published
in the city of New York), commissioned the author of this
memoir, then pursuing his avocations of Special War
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE. xlvii
Correspondent in Spain, to equip an expedition for the
search and relief of Dr. Livingstone.
My instructions were not to regard expense, to draw
whatever sums of money were necessary for the prosecu-
tion of the search, and a sufficiency for his relief, until he
could communicate with his friends.
A condensed diary of my travels from the date of my
instructions will serve to make this brief memoir
connected.
IGth October, 1869 . Received my instructions at Paris.
16th November , , . Arrive at Port Said to witness the opening of
the Suez Canal.
16th December , , . Arrive at Philae, and interview Mr. Higgin-
bothara, of Sir Samuel White Baker's
Expedition.
16th January, 1870 .
Arrive at Jerusalem.
16 th February , , .
> >
Constantinople.
16th March , , .
the Crimea.
16th April , , .
9 >
Bakou, on the Caspian Sea.
6th May , , .
9 »
Teheran, Persia.
1st J une , ,
» 1
Ispahan , ,
16th June , , .
> >
Bushirc , ,
13th July , , .
Muscat, Arabia.
12th ,, ,, .
> >
Bombay, India.
12th October , , .
Leave
19th November , , .
Arrive at Mauritius, Indian Ocean.
31st , , > > •
Mahd Seychelles.
6th January, 1871 .
> >
Zanzibar, East Coast of Africa.
6th February , ,
Bagamoyo — Africa.
18th ,, ,, .
First caravan departs for the interior.
21st ,, .
Second
9 9 9 9
25th ,, ,, .
Third
9 9 9 9
11th March , , .
Fourth
9 9 9 9
21st ,, ,, .
Fifth and last , , , ,
23rd June , ,
Search Expedition arrives at Unyanyembe.
4th August , ,
, , fight with Mirambo, King
of Uyoweh.
8th ,, ,, .
, , returns to Unyanyembe.
I
xlviii
MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
Search Expedition Departs for Ujiji.
» ) Hears of a white man being
at Ujiji.
, , Discover Livingstone at
Ujiji, on Lake Tan-
ganika.
I > Livingstone and self set out
to explore north end of
Lake Tanganika.
Livingstone and self return to Ujiji.
Livingstone and self depart from Ujiji south
to L^rimba.
Livingstone and self arrive at Mwaru
Ukonongo.
Livingstone and self arrive at Unyanyembe,
having journeyed 750 miles together.
Livingstone and self part.
Search Expedition arrives at Zanzibar.
Doctor Livingstone's des{)atches are delivered
at the Foreign Office, for which Viscount
Enfield gives a receipt in the name of Earl
Granville.
The letter wherein the explorer relates best his an-
noyances, his hopes, his fears, his joys, and his sorrows,
is addressed to his old friend Sir Roderick Murchison,
who, a few days before the author discovered Livingstone
at Ujiji, died of an attack of paralysis. Extracts only
may be published here. All those who desire to penetrate
to the bottom the causes which lead to his long detention,
which has finally culminated in his lamented death, may
read these plainly written sentences to advantage.
Unyanyembe, March 13, 1872.
My Dear Sib Kodekick,
***••♦*»
I have wrritten you a long account of the worry, thwarting, and
bafiBing I have endured in trying to work my way through the cannibal
20th September, 1871
4th November , , .
10th
11th December , ,
27th ,, ,,
31st January, 1872
18th February , ,
14th March , ,
7th May
1st August
MEMOIK OF LIVINGSTONE.
xlix
Manyuema down the central line of drainage — Webb's Lualaba ; but
it is not worth sending now. I got one letter from you in February,
1870, the first I received from you since one dated 13th March, 1866,
but I could not doubt that you had written oftener. The loss of your
letters has left me very much in the dark. I did not know that I had
a penny of income till Mr. Stanley came, and brought a mail he seized
for me here, after it had been fourteen months on the way, and in it I
saw the Royal Geographical Society's Report stated that 3,500Z. had
been received for the East African Expedition, which I ventured to
suppose means mine. [This is an error ; no such sum was ever given. —
Author.'] I don't know where that money is, or if it really is for me ;
I wish to give my children a little, but I have to ask the Messrs. Coutts
to inquire of you about it. I have been trusting to part of the price of
my little steamer at Bombay, and determined, pay or no pay, to finish
my work if 1 live. The want of letters was bad ; the want of goods
was worse, and the only supplies that I virtually received were part of
a stock I paid ibr, and, with Dr. Seward, sent off from Zanzibar, in
1866, to be placed in depot in Ujiji. They were plundered by the
governor here, but I got a share ; and it was a part of this share that 1
took the precaution to reserve at Ujiji in case of extreme need, and
found on my return lately. Rut for this I should have been in beggary ;
for a lot of goods sent oft' by , through a Banian slave-trader, called
Ludha Daniji, were all sold oft' at Ujiji by the drunken half-caste tailor,
Shereef, to whom they were entrusted. Jle must have reported' that
he had delivered all, for the statement was made in the House of Lords
that all my wants had been supplied. He divined on the Koran, and
found that I was dead, and then invested all in slaves and ivory foi
himself. There being no law except that of the gun or dagger, I had
to wait in misery till Mr. Stanley came and proved himself truly the
good Samaritan.
Another lot of goods was entrusted to Ludha again, and he to slaves
again with two free head-men who were thieves. Mr. wrote on
the 19th October, 1870, that they were all ready to leave, all impedi-
ments had been removed, and he remarked rather pleasantly " that
they were not perfect, but had exjire-ssed willingness to go ;" and then
they lay at Bagamoio three and a half months, and no one looked near
them. Near the end of February they heard that the consul was
coming, and started ofl' two days before his arrival, not to look after
them, but to look after the wild beasts along the Ujiji road, and
show them to the captain of a man-of-war. Here they lofiised to go
1
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
with Mr. Stanley to Ujiji, because of a war which did not prevent him
from going, nor him and me from coming, though it is still going on.
I seized what remained of the goods after the slaves had feasted sixteen
months. On the 18th ultimo one of the head-men died of small-pox ;
the other non-perfect head-man, besides running riot on my goods,
broke the lock and key of Mr. Stanley's store, and plundered his
goods too.
Traders get their goods safely by the same carriers we employ ; but
all our slaves are deeply imbued with the idea that they are not to
follow, but force me back. My expedition is looked on with disfavour
by all the Banians, who are really and truly the great slave-traders of
tlie country. But for the goods, guns, ammunition, advanced by the
Banians, no Arab who travels could go inland to slave. It is by their
money tliat the slave-trade is carried on. The wretched governor
here — the same who plundered Burton and Speke pretty freely — is
their trade-agent ; but simple people call him the " great Sheikh Syde
ben Salem," &c. All my letters disappeared here. My sketches, maps,
astronomical observations, &c., sent before cholera began, were never
heard of beyond this. When Shereef sold off all my stores, except a
few pounds of worthless beads, a little coffee and sugar, the governor
wrote to me that he had no hand in it. I never said he had. I suppose
that the Banians did not sit down and instruct their slaves to rob and
baffle me ; a mere hint would be sufficient, and then, when they reached
me, they swore tliat the Consul told them not to go with me — and he
had paid them more than double freemen's pay. Had they been with
me and mutinied, I should have blamed myself as partly the cause,
from want of tact or something ; but after they had been paid and fed
for sixteen months, it was mortifying to find myself virtually without
men. I have lost two full years of time, being burdened by one
thousand eight hundred miles of extra tramp, and how much waste of
money 1 cannot say, all through the matter of supplies and men being
unwittingly committed to slave-dealing Banians and slaves. Mr. Webb
sent nine packets and packages in the eleven months of his (Stanley's)
trip. 'I'he sixteen months that elajised from my last mail of November,
1870, included those eleven months, but Mr. Webb's messengers were
not allowed to lie feasting at Bagamoio, in sight of the consulate, for
three and a hall' months, as mine were. Nor were the Banian low
cunning and duplicity instilled into their minds. may probably
be able to explain it all.
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
li
Now I am all right. I have abundant sup[)lies of all I need to finish
my work. Some I seized from 's slaves, and Mr. Stanley gave me
more ; so I am thankful to say that I am now better off than when I
got a share of what I sent ofi" in 1866. I feel quite exhilarated by the
prospect of starting back as soon as Mr. Stanley can send me fifty free
men from the coast. Don't imagine, from my somewhat doleful tone,
that I am trying to excite commiseration and pity. When Zanzibar
failed me so miserably, I sat down at Ujiji ouly till I should become
strong, and then work my way down to Mteza. I am now strong and
well and thankful, and wish only to be let alone, to finish by the re-
discovery of the ancient fountains. In 's letter he talks hazily
about Tanganyika and my going home from being tired, and the
work being finished by another. You remember that I recommended
him for the task, and he would not accept it from you without a
good salary, and some thing lo fall back on afterwards. 1 went un-
.salaried ; the sole hope I had was tiie statement in yours of Match 13,
1866 : " Do your work, and leave pecuniary matters to Young and me."
I have been tired often, and began again. 1 have done it all on foot,
except eight day.s' illness with pneumonia and the trip down Tanganyika.
I could never bear the scorn tlie Portuguese endure in being carried
when quite well. I am sorry to have to complain of any one; but the
loss of time, useless tramps, and waste of money, are tmly no faults of
mine. Jf you share in 's idea that 1 must have been all this time
trying if Tanganyika communicated with Albert Nyanza, I regret the
destruction of my sketch maps and astronomical observations ; but in
a former case an imperfect sketch map was made the means of fleecing
me, and in the lost maps 1 did my duty notwithstanding.
Tanganyika is of no importance in connection with the Nile, except
in a very remote degree. Tlie interesting and great valley lies altogether
west of it. In that valley there are five great lakes and three large
rivers — Bangweolo, Moero, Kamolondo, Lake Lincoln and another,
which the slaves forced me to leave as the Unknown Lake. The large
rivers — Bartle Frere's, otherwise Lufira ; Webb's Lualaba — the central
line of drainage ; then Sir FarafBn Young's Lualaba,' with its name
further down Lomame— all go into the central Webb's Lualaba ; Hartic
Frere's through Lake Kamolondo ; Young's (I have been nbliged to
knight him t(j distinguish him from our friend the man-of-war's man)
Liiahiba through Lake Lincoln, and, as Lomame into Webb's, and four
or five days beyond the confluence into the Unknown Lake, which,
• Sir Paraffin Young is .-» facetious term applied by Dr. LivingHtone to Mr.
James Young of Kelley, the inventor of paraffine.
lii
MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
from the great westing I made, some 5° W. of Ujiji, must be part of
Petherick's branch. This is the interesting field. The correlation of
the structure and economy of the watershed with these great lakes and
lacustrine rivers is the theme of my prize. When you heard that the
sources were further south than any one dreamed, in the exuberance of
your kindly heart you were going to award something to B , F ,
and A , for having dreamed about it. You had no idea that the
watershed was seven hundred miles long and the fountains innumerable.
I smiled, of course good naturedly, to think that you would need to
divide the seven hundred miles among the three, and thereby show a
great physiological discovery by your friends — the division of labour in
dreaming. I am much more savage now than you, and any one who
competes after I have given my own explanation will be ordered out
for instant execution without benefit of clergy. I doubt if there is an
Ujiper Nile basin. I found it a gradual slope from the sources down,
and I reached the altitude ascribed to Gondokoro. Mr. Stanley will
tell you about what he saw of Tanganyika. I declined to examine it
in 1869 because Ujijians wished to mulct me of the few goods I had,
and there was no inducement to spend all in patching up Burton's
failure rather than work out the great main line of drainage from the
watershed.
I earnestly hope that you will be so far recovered when this reaches
you as to live in comfort, though not in the untiring activity of your
earlier years. The news of our dear Lady Murchison's departure filled
me with sincere sorrow. Had I known that she kindly remembered
me in her prayers it would have been a source of great encouragement.
I often thought that Admiral Washington and Admiral Beaufort looked
down from their abodes of bliss, to which she has gone, with approba-
tion. Sir Francis's words to the Arctic explorers, that they " were going
on discovery and not on survey," have been a guide to me, and I am in
hopes that, in addition to discovery, my disclosures may lead to the
snppiessiun of the Kast Coast Slave Trade by Batn'an British subjects.
If the good Lord of all grants me this, I shall never irrudge the toil,
time, and trouble 1 have endured. I pray that His blessing may
descend on you according to your need, and am, &c.
(Signed) David Livingstone.
P.S, — Mr. Stanley will be at the Langham Place Hotel when tliis
reaches you; attentions to him and James Gordon Bennett will gratify
me. Agnes will keep my London box and my Journal, which I send
home, sealed, by Mr Stanley. D. L.
MEMOIB OF LIVINGSTONE.
liii
The account of the Search and Relief Expedition, de-
spatched by the proprietor of the ' New York Herald,' is
given in the following book, ' How I found Livingstone.'
On arriving at Zanzibar from the successful search after
the traveller. May 7, 1872, 1 despatched to Dr. Livingstone
as per request a force of fifty-seven men, who were destined
to convey his supplies from Unyanyembe westward until
he should have resolved the problem to his satisfaction
whether the Lualaba was the Nile River or the Congo.
The following are their names : —
1. Chowpereh.
2. Sarmean.
3. Tabimt.
4. Amanvu.
5. tsunguru.
6. Msa.
7. Hassani.
8. Bclali.
9. Khamisi.
10. Rqjah.
11. Tmijiki.
12. Twakali.
13. Kliatib.
14. Shumari.
15. Ilussani.
16. Tom.
17. Chunda.
18. Farjalla.
19. Mahruki (^Burton).
20. Ulimenyo.
21. Zauli.
22. Maganod.
23. Mukudum.
24. Bukhet.
25. Baraka.
26. Ilamadi (gtiide).
27. Makawa.
28. Sunguru (^Stanley).
29. Jumah.
30. Sheban.
31. Moeni Falumi,
32. Resasi.
33. Khamseen.
34. Mabraki (Speke).
35. Khamisi (^Stanley').
36. Undi Man wa Sera (^Leader).
37. Majvara (_Bot/).
38. Ferousi.
39. Ramadan.
40. Fernhan.
41. Mdamungu.
42. Muriko.
43. Pangawassi.
44. Hamadi Swadi.
45. Khamisi.
46. Mabruk (Stanley).
47. Salina.
48. Car V' IS Ferrar (Nassick Boy),
49. <7oAh Wainwright (Nassick
Boy).
50. Richard Rutton (Nassick
Boy).
51. Matthew Wellington (Nassick
Boy.
52. Benjamin Rutton (Nassick
Boy).
53. Jacoft Wainwright (Nassick
Boy).
54. Mvaltm.
55. Hamadi (Stanley).
56. Mubniki ( Unyanye^nbe).
57. Uojab the Little.
liv
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
The people whose names are mentioned in the above
list arrived at Unyauyembe about the middle of July,
1872, having conducted themselves remarkably well, and
having performed their contract faithfully during the
journey from Zanzibar to Unyanyembe. The leader of
the men, Uledi Manwa Sera, who had accompanied
Speke and Grant, and subsequently performed faithful
service to the ' Herald ' Expedition, vsras chosen by
me for his good sense, and was highly recommended to
Livingstone.
But there remained at Unyanyembe with Livingstone,
during my journey to Zanzibar after parting from him,
his own faithful souls who had followed his fortunes from
March, 1866 to 1873, and had accompanied him during
journeys— with extraordinary fidelity — which measured in
the aggregate over eight thousand miles. As everything
now connected with poor Livingstone has a melancholy
interest, the names of these faithful people should not be
forgotten ; they are
1. Susi (chief, and confidential servant).
2. Chumali (second leader) from Nassick School.
3. Hamoydah, released from slavery on the Zambezi.
4. Edward Gardner, from Nassick School.
5. Haliniali, cook, and wife of Hamoydah. .
On the 2nd August, 1872, Livingstone properly equipped
with an Expedition numbering about eighty souls, in-
clusive of his own people and the fifty-seven despatched
to him by myself, with stores sufficient to last him three
years, left Unyanyembe for Lunda, in a south-south-
westerly direction. A glance at the map accompanying
this volume will indicate the route he would naturally
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Iv
follow as far as Mpokwa on the borders of Ufipa. Each
camping-place is plainly marked out, and located.
Beyond Mpokwa is new ground to European travellers,
but Arab information has enabled us to trace his sub-
sequent footsteps through Ufipa, ITemba, or Wemba,
Liemba, Marungu, and thence to Lunda and Lake Bang-
weolo. Which way he travelled beyond Lake Bangweolo
is left to conjecture for the present.
In January, 1872, a circular was issued by the Eoyal
Geographical Society, inviting subscriptions from the
British public, in order that they might make a deter-
mined effort to Find and Believe Livingstone. This
society, of which Livingstone was an associate, subscribed
the sum of £500. The interest the public entertained in
respect to Livingstone was signally manifested on this
occasion by the munificent sums which were in a very
short time subscribed.
The sums received by the society, inclusive of its own
grant of £500, amounted to £4,889 Is. 5d., to which was
promised an additional sum of £296 3s. Od. The balance
of a Government grant of £1,000 granted by Lord Claren-
don in 1870, amounting to £557 7s. IQd., was also
transferred to the Belief Fund, and a half-year's interest
on £2,500 Exchequer Bills, amounting to £30 10s. lOd.,
swelled the total to the magnificent amount of £5,770 3s. Id.
On the strength of this fund collected by the Geogra-
phical Society for the search and relief of their illustrious
associate, an Expedition was equipped, and despatched at
uhort notice on the 7th of February, 1872, under the com-
Ivi
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
maud of Lieut. Llewellyu Dawson, Lieut. "William Henn,
and W. Oswell Livingstone, son of the traveller.
In the concluding chapters of ' How I found Living-
stone,' I have related how this Expedition, arriving at
Zanzibar after the purchase at considerable outlay of the
goods necessary for the Expedition, withdrew from the
mission they had undertaken to accomplish.
Out of the Belief Fund was expended for outfit, passage
money, instruments, maps, presents for native chiefs,
advertising, stationary, stamps, &c., sundry small charges,
pay of natives employed at Zanzibar, pay of natives and
goods supplied for the Native Eelief Expedition, despatched
by the author on his return from Livingstone ; miscel-
laneous expenses at Zanzibar, loss on sale of goods, on the
disbanding of the Dawson Expedition ; passages to Eng-
land of the leaders, the sum of £2,671 15s. lid., of which
sum £2,359 6s. Qd. was made by the return of the Dawson
Expedition — a dead loss to the Society's fund for the
relief of Dr. Livingstone.
The balance then remaining in the hands of the Society
amounted to £3,175 16s. 6d. How to employ this for
the benefit of the traveller was an anxious qiiestion to the
Eoyal Geographical Society. Some proposed that the
money should be placed in the bank to draw interest, for
the benefit of Livingstone's family. Others, composing
the majority, proposed that a second Expedition should be
equipped for the finding and relief of Livingstone, which
was accordingly done, though now it appears, considering
the melancholy history of this Expedition, as if it might
have been the wiser course to have adopted the firat
MEMOIR OF LrV'INGSTONE.
Ivii
suggestion. However, there is no blame attached to the
trustees of the fund, for it may be assumed that they
thought themselves acting for the best.
The second Belief Expedition, under the command of
Lieut. Lovett Cameron, R.N., Lieut. Cecil Murphy, R.A.,
Dr. W. E. Dillon, R.N. — to whom was shortly attached as
a junior member and assistant Robert Moffatt, nephew of
Livingstone — arrived at Zanzibar, under the auspices of
Sir Bartle Frere, on the 9th of February, 1873.
These young gentlemen were fully equipped with from
two to four years' supplies ; and it was reported by the
Society to be the best equipped expedition which ever
left Zanzibar for the purpose of exploration.
During the early part of April the advance caravan
departed from Bagamoyo for the interior. News of its
advance was received regularly, and everything promised
well for a time ; but in May news was received of the
death of young Moffatt near a place called Simbo. (See
' How I found Livingstone,' chap, v.)
The remaining members of the Expedition arrived in
Unyanyembe about the middle of September, only to hear
shortly after the sad, sad account of Livingstone's death
from the lips of the faithful Chumah, who, with a select
party of men, had hurried forward to Unyanyembe in
advance of the main portion of Livingstone's Expedition,
that he might transmit the intoUigonce of the mournful
event by first caravan proceeding to Zanzibar.
Close upon the footsteps of Chumah came the solemn
funeral procession which had borne the body of the illus-
trious traveller many hundreds of miles, through the
Iviii
MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
many tribes that dwell between Bangweolo and TJnyan-
yembe.
After but a short stay at Unyanyembe the Expedition
continued their return march to Zanzibar under the
charge of Dr. W. E. Dillon and Lieut. Cecil Murphy,
while Lieut. Cameron is reported to have continued his
march to Ujiji for the purpose of securing a box of papers
deposited with Moeni-Kheri by Livingstone.
Soon after the return march had begun towards the
coast, Dr. Dillon, rendered delirious by his sufferings from
fever, and afflicted with blindness, committed suicide.
The following compose the most circumstantial details
received up to the beginning of April, 1874 : —
Suez, Sunday.
The body of Dr. Livingstone, arrived per Malwa, left this morning
for England, via the Canal. Dr. Livingstone died on the 4th of May,
at Muilala, in the kingdom of Bisa, of dysentery, after five days'
march through the marshy coimtry. The body, which was escorted
by Lieutenant Murphy to the coast, left Zanzibar on the 12th inst., in
charge of Arthur Laing, who proceeds via Briudisi with his papers and
eflects. The body will go to Southampton, attended by Jacob, Dr.
Livingstone's servant. The body was disemboweled and embalmed
by a native, and was put on a bush to dry. Twelve days afterwards
it was placed in two coftins.
The following is the copy of a telegram forwarded to the London
oflBce of the ' New York Herald ' : —
" The Malwa arrived off Suez at eleven on Saturday night, having
Mr. Arthur Laing and Jacob Wainwright aboard, with the body of
Dr. Livingstone. He had been ill with chronic dysentery for several
months piist. Although well supplied with stores and medicines, he
seeuiS to have had a presentiment that the attack would prove fatal.
He rode a donkey, but was subsequently caiTicd, and thus arrived at
Muilala beyond Lake Bt-mba, in Bisa country, when he siiid, ' Build
me a hut to die in.' The hut was built by his followers, who first
made him a bed. He suffered greatly, groaning day and night. On
MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
lix
the third day he said, ' I am very cold ; put more grass over the hut.'
His followers did not speak or go near him. Kitumbo,* Chief of Bisa,
sent flour and beans, and behaved well to the party. On the fourth
day Livingstone became insensible, aud died about midnight. Majwara,
his servant, was present. His last entry in the diary was on April 27tb.
He spoke much and sadly of his home and femily. When first seized
he told his followers he intended to exchange everything for ivory, to
give to them, and to push on to Ujiji and Zanzibar, and try to reach
England. On the day of his death his followers consulted what to do.
They determined to preserve the remains. They were afraid to in-
form the chief of Livingstone's death. The servants removed the
body to another hut, around which they built a high fence, to insure
privacy. They opened the body and removed the internals, which
were fjlaced in a tin bo.\ and buried inside the fence, under a large
tree. Jacob Wainwright cut an in.scription on the tree as follows :
— ' Dr. Livingstone died on May 4th, 1873,' and superscribed the
name of the head-man, Susi. Tlie body was preserved in salt, and
dried in the sun for twelve days. Kitumbo was then informed of the
death, and beat drum and fired as a token of respect, and allowed the
followers to remove the body, which was placed in a coflSn formed of
bark, then journeyed to Unyanyembe about six Tuonths, sending an
advance party with information, addressed to I^ivingstone's son, which
met Cameron. The latter sent back bales of cloth and powder. The
body arrived at Unyanyembe ten days alter a<lvance party, and rested
there a fortnight. Cameron, Murphy, and Dillon together there,
latter very ill — blind, and mind affected, suicided at Kasagera, buried
there.
" Here Livingstone's remains wei* put in anothi'r bark case, smaller,
done up in a bale to deceive natives, who objected to the passage of the
corpse, which was thus carried to Zanzibar, Livingstone's clothing,
papers, and instruments accompanying tlie body. When ill Living-
stone prayed much. At Muilala he said ' I am going home.' Chumah
remains at Zanzibar.
"Mr. Webb, American Consul at Zanzibar, is on his way home, and
has letters handed to him by Murphy from Livingstone, for Stanley,
which he will deliver personally only.
"Geographical news follows. After Stanley's departure the doctor
left Unyanyembe, rounded the south end of Lake Tangauika, and
Kitumbo is another way of gpvUiug the Chiliinbwa of Dr. I.ivingiitoiie.
0 2
Ix
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
travelled south of Lake Bemba or Bangweolo, crossed it south to north,
then along east side, returning north through Marungu to Muilala. All
papers sealed and addressed to Secretary of State, are in charge of Arthur
Laing, a British merchant, from Zanzibar."
Majwara, who seems according to the above report to
have attended Livingstone during his last hours, is a boy
about sixteen years old, and a native of Uganda. I ob-
tained him from an Arab caravan while he was afflicted
with a sore disease. He accompanied me to Ujiji, when
Livingstone's medical knowledge, with the aid of some of
my medicines, soon cured him.
When about to despatch the second Eelief Expedition
to Unyanyembe, Majwara voluntarily offered to return to
Livingstone, and he was accordingly sent to him in the
capacity of personal attendant, gun and over-coat bearer.
It appears that the boy Majwara has faithfully performed
his duties to his master, and had become a favourite, for he
was the only one permitted to hear the last sighs of the
dying explorer.
Livingstone's description of the place near which he
breathed his last on the 4th of May, 1873, cannot be
better given than in his own words in his letter to the
' Herald.'
At a spot some eighty miles S.W. of the south end of Tanganika
siauds tlie stockaded village of the chief Chitimbwa. A war had
ci>ninienced between a party of Arabs numbering six hundred guns
and the chief of the district situated west of Chitimbwa while I was at
the south end of tlie lake. The Ai-abs hearing that an Englishman
was in the country, naturally inquired where he was ; and the natives,
fearing that mischief was intended, denied ]x)sitively that they had
ever seen him. 'I'hey then strongly advised me to take refuge on an
inhabited island ; but not explaining their reasons, I am sorry to
think tlial 1 suspected them ol a design to make lue a prisoner, which
ilEMOlB OF LIVINGSTONE.
Ixi
they could easily have done by removing the canoes — the island being
a mile from the land. They afterwards told me how nicely they had
cheated the Arabs and saved me from harm. The end of the lake is in
a deep cup-shaped cavity, witli .sides running sheer down at some
parts 2,000 feet into the water. The rocks, of red clay schist, crop
out among the sylvan vegetation, and here and there pretty cascades
leap down the precipices, forming a landscape of surpassing beauty.
Herds of elephants, buffaloes, and antelopes enliven the scene, and,
with the stocka<led villages embowered in jialms along the shores of
the peaceful water, realise the idea of Xenophon's Paradise. When
about to leave the village of Mbette, or Fambette, down there, and
climb up the sleep path by which we had descended, the wife of the
chief came forward and .said to her husband and the crowd looking at
us packing up our things, " Why do you allow this man to go away?
He will certainly fall into the hands of the Mazitu (here called Batuba)
and you know it and are silent." On inquiry it appeared certain that
these marauders were then actually jilunderiug the villages up above
the precipices at the foot of which we sat. We wailed six days, and
the villagers kept watch on an ant-hill outside the stockade, all the
time looking up for the enemy. When we did at last ascend we saw
the well-known lines of march of the Mazitu — straight as arrows
through the co\nitry, without any regard to the native paths ; and in the
details of their plundering, for in this case there was no blood.sliL'd, we
found that the really benevolent lady had po.sse.ssed accurate informa-
tion. On going thence round the end of the lake, we came to the
village of Karambo, at the confiuence of a large river, and the head
man refused us a passage across. " Because," said he, " the Arabs have
been fighting with the people west of us; and two of their people have
since been killed, though only in search of ivory. You wisli to go
round by the west ol' the lake, and the people may suppose that you
are Arabs ; and 1 dare not allow you to run the risk of being killed by
mistake." On seeming to disbelieve, Karambo drew his finger across
his throat, and said " If at any time you iliscover that I have spoken
falsely, 1 give you leave to cut my thioat." That same afternoon two
Arab slaves came to the village in search of ivory, and confirmed every
word Karambo had spoken. Having previously been much plagued by
fever, and witliout a particle of medicine, it may have been the irrita-
bility produced by that disease that made me so absurdly jjigheaded
in doubting the intentions of my nally kind i)enffae;ors tiine .several
times. The same cau.se may he in operation when moilern travellers
Ixii
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
are unable to say a civil woid about the natives ; or if it must be
admitted, for instance, that sava?;es will seldom deceive you if placed
on their honour, why must we turn up the whites of our eyes, and
say it is an instance of the anomalous character of the Africans ?
Beinc; heaps of anomalies ourselves, it would be just as easy to say
that it is interesting to find other people like us. The tone which we
n;odern tiavellers afi'ect is that of infinite superiority, and it is utterly
nauseous to see at every step our great and noble elevation cropping
(H'.t in low cunning.
Unable to go north-west, we turned oft" to go due south one hundred
and fifty miles or so ; then proceeded west till we were past the disturbed
district, and igain resumed our northing. But on going some sixty miles
we lieard that the Arab camp was twentj' miles furtlier south, and we
went to hear the news. 1'he reception was extremely kind, for this
party consisted of gentlemen i'rom Zanzibar, and of a very diffeivnt
stamp from the murderers we afterwards saw in Manyuenia. They
were afraid that the chief with whom they had been fighting might
flee southwards, and that in going that way I might fall into his hands.
Being now recovered, I could readily believe them, and they being
eager ivory traders, as readily believed me wl)en I asserted that- a con-
tinuance of hostilities meant shutting up the ivory market. No one
would like to sell if he stood a chance of being shot. Peace, therefore, was
to be made; but the process of " mixing blood,'' forming a matrimonial
alliance with the chiefs daughter, <Src., &c., required three and a half
month.s, and during long intervals of that time 1 remained at Chitimbwa's.
The stockade was situated by a rivulet, and had a dense grove of high,
damp-loving trees round a spring on one side, and open country, pretty
well cultivated, on the other. It was cold, and over 4,700 feet above
the sea, with a good deal of forest land and ranges of hills in the dis-
tanee. The Arabs were oil the west side of the stockade, and one of
thitimbwa's wives at once vacated her house on the east side for my
convenience. Chitimbwa was an elderly man, with grey hair and beard,
and of quiet, self-i>ossessed manners. He had five wives, and my hut
being one of the circle whicli their houses formed, 1 often sat reading
or writing outside, and had a good opportunity of seeing the domestic life
in this Central African harem, without appearing to be prying. The
chief wife, the mother ol Chitimbwa's son and lieir, was somewhat aged,
but was the matron in authority over the establishment. The rest were
young, with fine shapes, pleasant countenances, and nothing of the
West Coast African about them.
MEMOIR OF LrvmCrSTONE.
Ixiii
Three of them had each a child, making, with the eldest son, a
family of four children to Chitimbwa. The matron seemed to
reverence her husband, for when she saw him approaching she
invariably went out of the way, and knelt down till he had passed.
It was the time of year for planting ami weeding the plantations, and
the regular routine work of all the families in the towa was nearly as
follows: Between three and four o'clock in the morning, when the
howling of the hyajnas ami growling of the lions or leopards told that
they had spent the night fasting, the first human so'mds he;ird were
those of the good wives knocking off the red coals from the ends of
the sticks in the tire, and raising up a blaze to which young and old
crowded for warmtli from the cold, which at this time is the most intense
of the twenty-four hours. Some Bang^ smoker lights his pipe, and
makes the place ring with his nasty .screamiii.;, and stridulous couching.
Then the cocks begin to crow (about four a.m.), and the women call
to each other to make ready to march. They go off to their gardens in
companies, and keep up a brisk, loud conversation, with a view to
frighten away any lion or buffalo that may not yet have retired, and for
this the human voice is believed to be efficacious. The gardens, or
plantations, are usually a couple of miles from tht? village. This is
often for the purpose of securing safety for the crojis from their own
goats or cattle, but more frequently for the sake of the black loamy
soil near the banks of rivulets. This they prefer for maize and dura
(ffolcus sorfjhum), while for a small species of millet, called mileza,
they select a patch in the forest, which they manure by burning the
branches of tree.s. The distances which the go;id wives willingly go to
get the best soil adapted for different plants make their arrival just
about dawn. Fire has been brought from home, and a little pot is set
on with beans or pulse— something that requires long simmering; and
the whole family begins to work at what seems to give them real
pl(;asure. The husband, who had marched in front of each little squad
with a sjiear and little axe over his shoulder, at once begins ti> cut off
all the sprouts on the stumps left in clearing the groimd. All bushes
also lall to his share, ami all the branches of tall trees too hard to bo
cut down are piled round th^ root to be fired when dry. lie must also
cut branches to make a low fence rouml the plantation, for few \vild
beasts like to cross over anythin'.; having the apfwarance of human
workmanship. The wart-hog having a great weakness for ground-
nuts, otherwise called pig-nuts (yliv/cA/s hijiuxjirn), muat be circumvented
by a .series of [litfails, or a deep ditch, and earthern dyke all round the
Ixiv
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
nut-plot. If any otlier animal lias made free with the food of the
family, papa carefully examines the trail of the intruder — makes a deep
pitfall in it, covers it carefully over — and every day it is a most
interesting matter to see whether the thief has been taken for the pot.
The mother works away vigorously with her lioe, often adding new
patches of virgin land to that already under cultivation. The children
help by removing tlie weeds and grass which she has uprooted into
heaps to be dried and burned. They seem to know and watch every
plant in the field. It is all their own ; no one is stinted as to the land
he may cultivate; the more they plant the more they have to eat and to
spare. In some parts of Africa the labour falls almost exclusively on
the women, and the males are represented as atrocioitsly cruel to them.
It was not so here, nor is it so in Central Africa generally — indeed the
women have often decidedly the upper hand. The clearances by law
and custom were the work of the men ; the weeding was the work of
the whole family, and so was the reaping. The little girls were nursing
baby under the shade of a watch-house perched on the tops of a
number of stakes about twelve or fourteen feet high, and to this the
family adjourns when the dnra is in ear to scare away birds by day
and antelopes by night. About eleven a.m. the sun becomes too hot
for comfortable work, and all come imder the .shade of the lofty watch-
tower, or a tree left for the purpose. Mamma serves out the pottage,
now thoroughly cooked, by placing a portion into each pair of hands —
it is bad manners here to receive any gift with but one hand They
eat it with keen apjietites, and with so much relish that for ever after-
wards they think that to eat with the hand is far nicer than with a
spoon. Mamma takes and nurses baby while slie eats her own share.
Baby seems a general favourite, and is not exhibited till he is quite a little
ball of fat. Every one then takes off beads to ornament him. He is
not born with a silver spoon in his mouth, and one may see poor
mothers who have no milk mix a little flour and water in the palm
of the hand, and the little sisters look on with intense interest to see
the little stranger making a milk-bottle of the side of the mother's hand,
the crease therein just allowing enough to p;iss down. They are wide-
awake little creatures, and I thought thaf my own little ones imbibed
a good deal of this quality from I don't know what. I never saw such
unwearied energy as they displayed the livelong day, and that too in
the hot season. The meal over, the wife, and perhaps daughter, goes
a little way into the forest and collects a bundle of dry wood, and, with
the baby slung on her back, in a way that suggests the flattening of
MEMOIK OF LIVINGSTONE.
Ixv
the noses of many Africans, the wood, on her head and the boy
carrying the hoe, the party wends home. Each wife has her own
};ranary, in which the iiroduce of the garden is stowed. It is of the
beehive shape of the huts, only the walls are about twelve feet high,
and it is built on a stage about eighteen inches from the ground. It i.-^
about five feet in diameter, and roofed with wood aud grass. The door
is near the roof, and a ladder, made by notches being cut in a tree,
is used to enable the owner to climb into it. The first thing the
good wife does on coming home is to get the ladder, climb up, and
bring down millet or dura grain sufficient for her family. She s[)reads
it in the sun, and while this is drying or made crisp occurs the
only idle time I have seen in the day's employment. Some rested,
others dressed their husband's or neighbour's hair, others strung
beads. I should hrvve liked to have seen them take life more easily,
for it is as pleasant to see the negro reclining under his i)alm as it is to
look at the white lolling on his ottoman. But the great matter is,
they enjoy their labour, and the children enjoy life as human beings
ought, and have not the sap of life squeezed out of them by their own
parents as is the case with nailers, glass-blowers, stockingers, fustian-
cutters, brick-makers, &c., in England. At other periods of the year,
when harvest is home, they enjoy more leisure and jollification with
their native beer called " pombc," but in no ca.se of free people, living
in their own free land under their own free laws, are they like what
sl.ives become.
When the grain is dry it is pounded in a large wooden mortar to
separate the scales from the seed. A dexterous toss of the hand drives
all the chatr to one corner of the vessel. This is lifted out, and then
the dust is tossed out by another peculiar up-and-down, half horizontal
motion of the vessel, diilicult to describe or do, which leaves the grain
quite clean. It is then ground into fine meal by a horizontal motion
of the upper millslone, to which the whole weight is applied, and at
each stroke the flour is shoved ofl' the further end of the nether mill-
stone. The Hour finished, late in the afternoon, at the time maidens go
forth to draw water, the lady poi.ses a huge earthen jwt on her head,
fills it full at the rivulet, anil, though containing tin or twelve gallons,
balances it on her hiad, and, without lifting up hir hands, walks
jauntily home. They have meat but seldom, and make relishes for the
lK)rridge into which the flour is cooked of the leaves of certain wild and
cultivated plants ; or they roast some ground nuts, grind them fine,
and make a curry. They seem to know that oily matter such as the
Ixvi
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONB.
nuts contain is requisite to modify their otherwise farinaceons food,
and some even grind a handful of castor-oil nuts with the grain for the
same purpose. The husband having employed himself in the afternoon
in making mats for sleeping on, in preparing skins for clothing, or in
making new handles for hoes or cutting out wooden bowls, joins the
family in the eveninsj, and all partake abundantly of the chief meal of
the day before going off to sleep. They have considerable skill in
agriculture, and great shrewdness in selecting the soils proper lor
different kinds of produce. When Bishop Mackenzie witnessed their
oix;rations in the field, he said to me, " When I was in England and
spoke in public meetings about our mission, I mentioned that among
other things I meant to teach them agriculture, but now I see that the
Africans know a great deal more about it than I do." One of his
associates, earnestly desiring to benefit the people to whom he was
going, took lessons in basket-making before he left England; but the
sj)ecimens of native workmanship he met with everywhere led him to
conclude that he had better say nothing about his acquisition ; in fact,
he could " not hold a caudle to them." The foregoing is as fair an
example of the every-day life of the majority of the people in Central
Africa as I can give.
The Peninsular and Oriental steamship Malua arrived
at Southampton on the 16th of April. As she hove to
abreast of Netley Hospital she was boarded by Admiral
Sir William Hall, William F. Webb, Esq , of Newstead
Abbey, General Kigby, formerly Political Eesident at
Zanzibar, Colonel J. A. Grant, companion of Speke, the Eev.
Eobert Moffatt, father-in-law of Dr. Livingstone, William
Oswell Livingstone, the great traveller's second son, the
Kev. Horace Waller, formerly of the Zambezi Mission,
and now Vicar of Leytonstone, and Arthur Laing, Esq., of
Zanzibar, Mr. Fenton, representative of the ' Times,' Mr.
Walter Wood, of the ' Standard,' Mr. Mackenzie, of the
' Telegraph,' and Mr. Senior, of the ' Daily News,' and
other gentlemen connected with the reception of the
remains of Livingstone at Southampton.
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Ixvii
Mr. Thomas Steele Livingstone, who was a passenger
on board, was soon recognised, and the Eev. Mr. Price,
after seeking for Jacob Wainwright, brought him to the
above-mentioned gentlemen, by whom he was warmly-
applauded for the fidelity which had characterised his
service with the great traveller.
The information supplied by Jacob Wainwright, on
being examined by me on board the Molwa, confirmed
what was obtained from him by the ' Herald ' corre-
spondent at Suez. Beyond this he stated that Livingstone
first had a relapse of dysentery at Kasera, in Ukonongo
(see ' How I found Livingstone,' p. 295), while he was
but twenty days from Unyanyembe, and that all the
streams they journeyed across from Unyanyembe flowed
westerly and northerly, which proves conclusively now
that the Tanganika has no outlet in any part of the
north-western, northern, eastern, or southern coasts of
the lake, and that the mystery will be found to be
between the north end of the island of Muzimu and the
southern end of TJguhha on the western shore, which no
doubt will be discovered by Lieutenant Cameron, who
must have reached Ujiji in the early part of January of
this year.
After the arrival of the Malwa in the dock, the coflin
containing the mortal relics of the traveller was lifted from
the mailroom of the ship and placed on board another
steamer, to be conveyed to the Royal Pier, to be received
ceremoniously by the Mayor and the Corporation of
Southampton, and the Committee of the Koyal Geogra-
phical Society; and while this was being done all hats
Ixviii
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
were reverently doffed. Every flag was at half-mast.
Mostly all the citizens of Southampton wore the mark of
sorrow.
About eleven o'clock the procession ;rom the Audit
House, in the High Street, arrived at the Eoyal Pier,
where the hearse, drawn by four horses, was in waiting.
In a few moments the procession resumed its line of
march to the South Western Station in the following
order : —
The Worshipful the Mayor.
The Sheriff.
The Senior and Junior Bailiffs.
The Aldermen.
The Councillors.
. The Magisirate.s of the Horough.
The Pier and Harbour Commissioners.
Sir F. Perkins, M.P.
THE HEARSE.
The Relatives of Dr. Livingstone.
The President and Fellcnvs of the Ro3'al (leographical Society.
The Clergy and Ministers of the Town.
The President of the Medical Society of Southampton.
Members of the Medical Society and of the Medical Profession
generally.
The Consuls of different Nations.
The Guardians of the Southampton Incorporation
The Council of the Hartley Institutibn.
The Members of the Southampton School Board.
The Committee of each Literary and Philosophical Society in the
Town.
The Representatives of other Public Bodies.
The Mayor, Aldermen, and the other members of the
Corporation wore their official robes and insignia, but
with crape on their arms. The maces and regalia were
also encased in black.
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Ixix
The crowds were vast— people from all sections of the
County of Hants had gathered in the streets on this day,
to pay the only tribute in their power to all that was
left of the greatest of African explorers. The mani-
festation of their sentiments was remarkably impressive.
On the arrival of the hearse at the station, it was
placed on a truck, and a special train conveyed it to
London. At Waterloo Station a hearse and mourning
coaches were in readiness to take the coffin and the
Committee of Arrangements to the rooms of the Koyal
Geographical Society, where the coffin was covered with
a pall to await burial, and to be inspected by the public.
The exhibition of the respect of the good people of
Southampton towards the remains of Livingstone was
only wliat might have been expected from a people
so appreciative of usefulness and virtue as the English.
The worthy mayor— Edwin Jones, Esq., has faithfully
demonstrated it by the large-minded hospitality with
which he received the Committee of the Geographical
Society and the friends of the traveller, and the per-
fection of the arrangements for the reception of the
body.
Meanwhile an appeal has been made to the Britisli
public by Baroness Burdett-Coutts, Lord Kiniiaird, Sir
Bartle Frere, Hon. A. Kiniiaird, W. ¥. Webb, Esq.,
Kcv. Horace Waller, James Young, Esq., of Kelley, and
W. C. Oswell, Esq., for means to support the family
of the traveller, which no doubt will be liberally re-
sponded to.
In the following portion of a letter which Captain Webb
Ixx
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
brought the aiithor from Zanzibar, which was given to
him by Lieutenant Murphy, Dr. Livingstone expresses his
thanks to me for the promptitude and care with which I
despatched to him his supplies from Zanzibar.
* Lake Bangweolo, South Central Africa.
My Dear Stanley,
I wrote hurriedly to you when on the eve of starting from
Unyanyembe, and the mind being occupied by all the little worries
incidental to the starting of the caravan, I felt, and still feel, that I
had not expressed half the gratitude that wells up in my heart for all
the kind services you have rendered to me. I am also devoutly thank-
ful to the loving Father above for lieljiing you through all your manifold
Masika (rainy season) toils, and bringing you salely to Zanzibar, with
your energies unimpaired, and with a desire to exert yourself to the
utmost in securing all the men and goods needed for this ray con-
chiding trip.
I am perpetually reminded that I owe a great deal to you for the
drilling of the men you sent. With one exception, the party is
ivorking like a machine. I give my orders to Manwa Sera, and
never need to repeat them. 1 parted with the Arab sent without any
disagreement. He lo.st one of the new donkeys at I!agamoyo. He
then put the two stragglers on the chain without fastening the free
end, and they wi.sely walked off with the bridle, bits and all — then
suffered a lazy Moinbasian to leave the cocoa somewhere, and got five
dotis at Unyanyembe. Well, no one either before or after that could
get any good out of him.
Added to this, the Arab showed a disposition to get a second $500,
supposing we should be one month over the year, though he could do
nothing except through my native headmen. I therefore let him go,
and made Manwa Sera, Chnwpereh, and Susi, heads of departments at
$20 if they gave satisfaction. This they have tried faithfully to do,
and hitherto have been quite a contrast to Bombay, wlio seemed to
think that you ought to please him.
Maj wara has behaved perfectly — but is slow! slow ! ! and keeps your
tine silver teapot, spoons, and knives as bright as if he were an
English butler; gets a cup of coffee at five a.m. or sooner, if I don't
* Tliis letter must have been written some time after Christmas of 1872.
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Ixxi
advise him to lie down again ; walks at the head of the caravan as
drummer, this instrument being the African sign of peace as well as of
war. He objected at first to the ofQce, because the drum had not been
bought by either you or me. Some reasons are profound — this may be
one of them.
The fruits, fish, pork, biscuits, fowl have been selected far better
than I could have done it. No golden syrup could be found, or you
would have sent some. The tea was very nicely secured.
Your wish for joy of the plum-pudding was fulfilled, though it
would have been better had we been nearer to Chambezi, where we
spent Christmas, to enjoy it. I keep most of your handsome presents
of champagne for a special occasion. One rifle was injured at Baga-
moyo ; your revolver and .splendid rifle were all I could desire for
efiiciency. The fifteen-shooter cartridges are not satisfactory, but
everything else gives so much satisfaction that I could not grumble
though 1 were bilious. I thank you very much and very sincerely for
all your kind generosity.
My reason for publishing the above is to show the
reader how susceptible of gratitude was the heart of
Dr. Livingstone. It is a complete and certain proof that
if proper care had been taken to send him supplies
Livingstone would not only have been most grateful,
but would undoubtedly have been living to-day in Eng-
land to express his thanks in person for the assistance he
received while in Africa.
As the author of this memoir was one of the pall-
bearers at the funeral of Dr. Livingstone, it is neces-
sary that some writer unconnected with the ceremony
should be left to describe what took place at Westminster
Abbey, on Saturday, April 18th, 1874.
Yesterday morning. Dr. Livingstone was buried in Westminster
Abbey amidst such testimonies of profound respect and mournful
veneration as has seldom been shown for the fate of any since the
deatli of the lamented Prince Consort, 'J'here w.as something touching
Ixxii MEMOm OF LIVINGSTONE.
in the tate of poor Liviugstoue. His loug absence — the loss of his wife
in the heart of the wilds of Africa — the rumours of his death, which
were only contradicted to be again revived, the search of the gallant
Stanley for him, which at length set all auxiel}' and misgivings at rest,
and then the last news of all — the death of the great explorer. None
believed in this, because none wished to do so, but kept on hoping
against hope, till the terrible calamity of the late which had overtaken
the great man was found at last to be but too true. The fate of Muugo
Park, of Olapperton, of Lander, in no way excited any interest in their
discoveries, or more than a passing regret for their loss. Africa was
then an unknown land ; and, to say the truth, people cared as little
about it as they knew. Lately it has been opened up to us like a
region of romance, by Baker, Sjjeke, Grant, and last, and greatest
of all, the marvellous man who was to rest in England's sanctuary of
sanctuaries. That the greatest of the great of this land lie beneath its
sandy soil we all know, but among the mighty tiead whose plain
gravestones chequer its pavement, or whose monuments adorn its walls,
there are none more distinguished for courage and moderation, for
singleness of purpose and the simplicity of his great philanthropy, than
David Livingstone. How we have all followed him in his adventures
from the time tliat the lion first seized him thirty yeais ago and left
such fractures in the bones of his arm as led, even after the lapse of
about a year after death, to the instaut identification of the body by
the great sui-geou who attended him when last in England ! There
seems to be a sort of lurking suspicion among noma that the body after
all may not be that of the tamous geographer, and this no doubt may
be accounted for by the fact that so many rumours have obtained
tjedence as to his death. But if there is anything that was incon-
testably ])roved it is that the poor, emaciated remains which were
yesterday laid under the centre of the nave of our great Abbey, were
those of the most famous explorer of any time, ancient or modern. Not
only has Sir William Fergussou identified what he had done to the
bones of the left arm, but with the body the faithful servant, Jacob
Wainwright, has brought all the diaries, the instruments, the journals,
and even the poor clothes in which Livingstone breathed his last. If
these are not proofs of identity, it would be hard to .say what is re-
quired. They are but far too certain.
The Abbey had the usual quiet, solemn, and stately aspect, that
makes, as Coleridge says, a religion in stone. The choir had a line of
biack cloth down it, which was met by another from the door of the
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Ixxiii
western cloisters, where the body was to be received, and in the centre
of the nave was a black aperture, amid the black cloth, of the shape of
a coffin, and just rimmed round with a broad band of white. Without
such a precaution one might have inadvertently slipped into it in the
early gloom of the morning, but as the day wore on during service the
sun came out in a flood of light, which, pouring through the stained
windows, tinted the columns and ancient monuments with all the hues
of the rainbow. The grave of Livingstone is in the very centre of the
west part of the nave. The spot is in the central line, exactly half-
way between the western doors and the choif. On the north side is
the grave of the Countess of Clanricarde, and on the other side that of
Thomas Campion, a noted watchmaker. Clo.se by lie Major Rennell,
and Telford and Stephenson, the engineers. Like all the graves in
Westminster Abbey, it is not a dccji one, for there arc no vaults under
the Abbey, and the soil is .so sandy that it is scarcely safe to far down.
As it was, both sides of the j;rave had to be shored to prevent the sand
from slipping. These supports, however, were hidden by black cloth,
which gave, as usual, a most forbidding as])ect to the large aperture
and one of most unusual depth. The central position of the grave
made the whole ceremony far more conspicuous than was the
case with the funerals of Lord Lytton or Ijord Macaulay. That
of Dickens was absolutely private. Before the procession started
from the house of the Geographical Society in Saville Row, there
was a funeral service conducted liy tlie Kev. H. W. Hamilton,
Minister of the Established Church of Scotland. The pall was
adorned with wreaths of flowers, on(! of them, composed of white
azaleas and delicate ferns, having been .sent by her Majesty. The
service consisted of the o9th Psalm, and three other short passages
from the Bible — Mark xiii. 33-37, 1 Thessalonians, iv. 13-78, and
liev. vii. 9-17 — followed by an extempore prayer. The procession
was then formed, and passed slowly through the streets to the Abbey
It was nearly twelve o'clock before those who were fortunate
to have tickets began to take their seats. Without a single ex-
ception, all were more or less in mourning — that is to .say, some in
deeji mor.rning, others only in ordinary black. The choir soon filled
and tlio.se beyond it made up a throng in the nave and the aisles.
Hut all was as silent as the grave itself; not even the u.sual mild
whisper of a waiting congregation went round. Earlier than all came
a group of seven ladies, some very young, and all dressed in the
deejiest mourning. They took their places in the seats allotted to
/
Ixxiv
MEMOIK OF LIVINGSTONE.
mourners in the southern side of the choir, just in front of the two
black velvet trestles on which the cofSn was to be placed. Each lady
had with her a large chaplet of myrtles and violets or camellias and
cypresses, which were ranged in front of them, and, in spite of their
beauty, were, with their associations, a mt'lancholj'-looking row.
Towards twelve the Abbey began to fill, and there was a faint though
audible noise of the crowd which was waiting without to watch the
arrival of what was most truly a melancholy procession. Soon after
twelve o'clock such of the public as had tickets were allowed mto the
building, and filled the aisles, while others who were more privileged
occupied the Sacrarium. By-and-bye all spaces were filled, and even
in the clerestory there were some lining the old monks' walk, and
looking down with a curious aspect from rather a dizzy height on to
the crowd below. At a quarter to one the bells of St. Margaret's
began to toll. The bell of the Abbey, like that of St. Paul's, never
tolls but for Royalty. The coffin was conveyed through Dean's Yard to
the entrance of the western cloisters. 'J'hence past the time-worn fret-
work of carved mullions and pilasters, which were old and grey when
Africa was only a name, and America an unknown sound. Through
these cloisters it was reverently borne at a very slow pace.*
I'he pall-bearers were Mr. Henry M. Stanley, who was foremost on the
right, the Kev. Horace Waller, Vicar of Leytonstone, Dr. John Kirk,
Mr. Edward Daniel Young, who had been his companions on the
Zambezi ; W. C. Oswell, Esq., Major-General Sir Thomas Steele, W.
E. Webb, Esq. (of Newstead Abbey), who had been his companions in
South Central Africa, in the region of Lake Ngami, and lastly Jacob
Wainwright, the coloured boy Ironi Nassick School, who had been sent
by Mr. Stanley from Zanzibar to form |(art of the escort of the great
explore)' on his last journey from Unyanyembe to Lake Bangweolo.
Among the mourners, were Thomas Steele Livingstone, William
Oswell Livingstone, Agnes Livingstone, and Mary Anna Livingstone,
the dead traveller's children ; Janet and Anna Livingstone, his sisters ;
Mrs. Livingstone, widow of the Rev. Charles Livingstone ; Rev. Robert
Moffatt, his father-in-law, Livingstone and Bruce Moflatt, young rela-
tives of the traveller ; Sir W. Fergusson, Rev. H. W. Hamilton, Dr. J.
Loudon, Mr. James Hannan, the Duke of Sutherland, Hight Hon. Sir
Bartle Frere, K.C.B. (President Royal (ieographical Society), Sir H. C.
Rawlinson, K.C.B. (Vice-President Geograjihical Society), Mr. K. R.
Murchisou, General Rigby, Colonel J. A. Grant, C.B., Mr. J. Murray
* From tlie " Sunday Dispatch."
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
Ixxv
Mr. J. Young, jun. (of Kelley), Vice- Admiral Baron de la Ronciere le
Noury (President French Geoj;raphical Society), Dr. Hooker (President
Royal Society), Mr. H. W. Bates (Assistant Secretary Royal Geo-
graphical Society), Lord Houghton, the Provost of Hamilton, Mr. J. B.
Braithwaite, Mr. C. R. Markham, Mr. R. H. Major (Secretaiies Royal
Geographical Society), Rev. Dr. Stuart, Mr. T. Kichoison, Mr. Ralston,
(friends of the family), the Lord Provost of Edinburgh, Mr. Duncan
M'Laren, M.P., Mr. James Cowan, M.P., Mr. Josiah Livingstone, the
Lord Provost of Glasgow, Dr. Watson (Pres. Faculty Pliys. Glasgow),
Baillie Walls (Chief Magistrate, Glasgow), Baillie Bain, Mr. Edwin
Jones (the Mayor of Southampton), Sir Frederick Perkins, Mr. A. Laing,
Mr. Elliott (who brought the body from Southampt(jn) ; Mr. George
Sauer, Mr. Edmund Yates, and Mr. J. H. MacGahaii, Correspondents
of the ' New York Herald ;' the Duke of Manchester, the Earl of
Ducie, Lord Cottesloe, Lord Kinnaird, the Bishops of Lincoln and
Sierra Leone, the Lord Mayor and City Remembrancer and twenty
members of the Corporation of London : the Mayor of Nottingham,
the Provost of Dumbarton, the Provost and Town Clerk of Ayr,
Lady Frere, Lady Rawlinson, Lady Strauuford, Hon. Mrs. Forester,
Mrs. W. F. Webb, of Newstead Abbey, Mrs. and Miss Goodlake, Sir
Ruthcrlbrd Alcock, Sir T. Fowcll Buxton, Sir C. Nicholson, Sir C.
Russell, M.P., Sir W. Thompson, Sir Harry Verney, Major-General
Sir F. Goldsmid, the Right Hon. Russell Gurney, M.P., the Hon.
G. C. Brodrick, Hon. A. F. Kinnaird, Count Gosloff, Chevalier
Cadorna (Italian Minister), Viscount Duprat (Portuguese Consul
General), Mr. Moran (United States Charii^ d' Affairs), Capt. Francis
R. Webb and lady, from Zanzibar U.S. Consulate, Count Munstur (the
German Ambassador), General Scott, Admirals Codrington, CoUinson
Sir W. Hall, Sherard Oslxjrn, and Oinmauney ; the Rev. Wm. Monk,
who presented Dr. Livingstone in 18G7 to the Vice Chancellor in
the Cambridge Senate House; Colonel Guseley, Profe-ssor Brock, and
a deputation from the Anthrojiological Institute, and other deputations
from the Royal Botanical Society of Ijondim, National Temperance
League, Social Science Association, African Section of the Society
of Arts, Reception Committee of Southampton Church Missionary
Society, London Mis.sionary Society, British and Foreign Anti-Slavery,
East African, and other societi(,'s.
Most notable among the throng, as they airry the coiliu to the
grave, are the African travellers who constitute such a natural guard of
honour for this dead man. Foremost among them in right of gallant
Ixxvi
MEMOm OF LIYINGSTONE.
si>tcial service, and nearest to Livingstone's head, stands Stanley — sun-
tanned anew from Ashantee — whose famous march of relief gives
America the full right to celebrate at this moment, as we know she is
doing, simultaneously with England, the obsequies of the explorer.
But for Stanley, Livingstone would have died long back, without aid
or news from lis ; but near him are Grant, the discoverer, along witii
Speke, of the Nyanza ; Young, who was with Livingstone in old days,
and who sailed the Nyassa Lake and the Shire River in quest of him ;
Oswell, tanned and grizzled with hunting and exploring under an
African sun ; and beside them Rigby, and Moffat, and Webb, the
godfather of the Lualaba, and the faithful friend who buried Mrs.
Livingstone in tlie sad day of the separation of husband and wife;
Colonel Shelley, of Lake Ngami ; Waller, of the Zambesi ; Galton,
Keade — what a band of African! ! Such a gathering of sunburnt
visages and far-travelled men was never seen before; and, indeed,
the list might be lengthened with the names of a hundred other famous
travellers present, who listen with wistful looks round tlieir great dead
chieftain, while Tallis's hymn is being sung, after the lesson read by
Oiuiou Conway. It is a well-known hymn — one which sings of
ultimate rest after wandering — the only real rest for all toils and
travels. These are the words : —
" 0 God of Bethel, by whose hand
Thy people still are fed.
Who through this weary pilgrimage
Hast all our fathers led ;
" Our vows, our prayers, we now present
Before thy throne of grace;
God of our Fathers ! be the God
Of each succeeding race.
" Through each perplexing path of life
Our wandering footstc]>s guide ;
Give us each day our daily bread,
And every want provide.
" 0 spread thy covering wings around
Till all our wanderings cease,
And at our Father's loved abode
Our souls arrive in peace 1 "
MEMOIK OF LIYINGSTONE.
Ixxni
After the conclusiou of this hyniu, in w liich the congregation joined
with much effect, the coffin is borne down the choir into the centre of
the nave, where towards its western end tlie grave has been prepared.
Here also among the dead lying around are ancient far-travelled
worthies — companionable ashes for those which are now to be con-
signed to the same unbroken and majestic rest. Sir John Chardin lies
nigh at hand, who saw Suleiman II. crowned Monarch of Persia two
hundred years gone by — a much-wandering Knight, " qui sibi nonien
fecit euudo ;" and Major James Reimell, who wrote on the geography
of Herodotus and founded the African Society. The pall is withdrawn,
and the ixdished oaken coftin is prepared for lowering into the dark
cavity which o[)ens no narrowly and so abruptly iu the Abbey pave-
ment, while the choir .sing " Man that is bom of a woman " to Croft's
setting, and then the tender strains of I'urcell's, " Thou knowest Lord."
This is the very last that will be seen of " this our dear brother," and
now indeed strong men are fain to bend their heads, and sobs, not from
women only, mingle with the alternate sighing and rejoicing of the
solemn music. The dizzy edges of the clerestory, eighty feet overhead,
are crowded with iieople looking down from that perilous eminence
upon the throng round the grave, and shadow.s are .seen at many of the
Abbey windows, of others peering through lor a glinijjse of the " last
scene of all." As the precious burden descends th(; inscription on the
plate may be seen—" David Livingstom-, born at Blantyre, Lanarkshire,
Scotland, I'Jth March, IS 13, died at Ilala, Cential Africa, 4th May,
1873." And then there falls the "dust to dust;" and, looking at the
solemn dusky faces of the two Africans, Wainwright and little Kalulu,
Mr. Stanley's boy, who are standing among the nearest, the mind
reverts to that widely-different scene a year ago, when Livingstone,
after much pain, which is not spared to the best 5nd kindliest, gave up
his gallant, loving, pious sjjirit to his Master and Maker, and when yonder
negro lad read over him the very service which has now again been so
grandly celebrated for him
" With pomp and rolling music, like a King."
The African — a simple-looking, quiet, honest lad — attracts many
eyes as he stands by the grave ; he knows alone of all present the
aspect of that other burial spot, and to him more than all this one
must be impressive. But he tjikes his wonder, like his duty, stolidly
— his th<jughi8 appear lost in his master's memory. Alas! that
Ixxviii
MEMOIR OF LIVINGSTONE.
matiter did uot dream ia the suj)reirie closing hour of loneliness and
agony that his body would fixid such honour and peaceful repose at
home. Of that nnd of all other reward, however, he never thought
while he wrought patiently and constantly his appointed work for the
sake of Africa — tramping, discovering, noting, hunting out the slave-
hunters, and leaving himself and the results of his self-sacrifice to
Heaven. And Heaven, which has given him this sweet rest in English
earth, will assuredly bring forth fruits of his labour — of that we may
remain well convinced ; meanwhile, the work of England for Africa
must henceforward begin in earnest where Livingstone left it off.
The service draws to its end with the " Forasmuch " and the follow-
ing prayers, read in a clear, sustained voice of the deepest solemnity
and feeling by Dean Stanley ; and then once more the organ speaks the
unspeakable — as music only can — sounding forth, " I heard a voice
from heaven." But the very finest musical passage of all comes last in
the beautiful anthem of Handel, " His bodj' rests in peace, but his
name liveth evermore." Tenderly and meditatively the first sad dreamy
sentence is set, as though it were uttered by some spirit of melody looking
downward into the quiet, silent haven of the grave, where all the
storms and toils of mortal life are over. Radiantly and triumphantly
comes afterwards the jubilant antiphon, as though the same gentle
spirit had conceived it, mindful of the sacred words, " Come ye blessed
children of my Father, receive the kingdom prepared for you from the
beginning of the world." Last of all, there rains down upon the lid of
Livingstone's coffin a bright and fragrant shower of wreaths and fare-
well-flowers from a hundred living hands; and each of those present
takes a long parting glance at the great traveller's resting-place, and at
the oaken coffiu buried in the spring blossoms, and palms, and garlands,
wherein lies " as much as could die " of the good, great-hearted, loving,
fearless, and faithful David Livingstone.*
ILALA— May, 1873.t
The swarthy followers stood aloof,
Unled — unfathered ;
He lay beneath that grassy roof,
Fresh-gathered.
* From the ' Daily Telegraph.'
t From the ' Times."
MEMOIR OF LIVINaSTONE.
Ixxix
He bade them, as they passed the hut,
To give no warning
Of tbeir still faithful presence but
" Good Morning."
To him, may be, through broken sleep
And pains abated,
These words were into senses deep
Translated.
Dear dead salutes of wife and child,
Old kirkyard greetings ;
Sunrises over hill-sides wild —
Hearts-beatings.
Welcoming sounds of fresh-blown seas,
Of homeward travel.
Tangles of thought's last memories
Unravel.
• » • • ♦
'Neath England's fretted roof of fame—
With flowers adorning
An open grave — comes up the same
" Good Morning."
Morning's o'er that weird continent
Now slowly breaking —
Europe her sullen self-restraint
Forsaking.
Mornings of symjjathy and trust
For such as bore
Their Master's spirit's sacred crust
To England's shore.
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sketching succintly the most important epochs in the world's history, always making
the history of a nation subordinate to this more general idea. No attempt will be
made to recount all the events of any given period. The aim will be to bring out in
the clearest light the salient incidents and features of each epoch. Special attention
will be paid to the literature, manners, state of knowledge, and all those character-
istics which exhibit the life of a people as well as the policy of their rulers during
any period. To make the text more readily intelligible, outline maps will be given
with each volume, and where this arrangement is desirable they will be distributed
throughout the text so as to be more easy of reference. A series of works based
upon this general plan can not fail to be widely useful in popularizing history as
science has lately been popularized. Those who have been discouraged from attempt-
ing more ambitious works because of their magnitude, will naturally turn to thece
Epochs of History to get a general knowledge of any period ; students may use
them to great advanuge in refreshing their memories and in keeping the true per-
spective of events, and in schools they will be of immense service as text books, — a
Doinl which shall be kept constantly in view in their preparation.
THE FOLLOWING VOLUMES ARE NOW READY:
The ERA of the PROTESTANT REVOLUTION. By F. Sekbohm, Author
of "The Oxford Reformers — Colet, Krasmus, More.''
The CRUSADES. Hy the Rev. G. W. Cox, M.A., Author of the "History of
Greece."
The THIRTY YEARS' WAR, I618— 1648. By Samuel Rawson Gardinbr.
^Br~ Copitt sent post-paid, on receipt a/ price, hy th* Publishers.
A NEW SERIES OF
IIIusfraiFii HiliFaFg of MonbPFS,
EtfLARGED IN SIZE, IN A NEW STYLE OF BINDING, AND
EDITED BV PROMINENT AMERICAN AUTHORS.
Ihb extraordinary success of the Illustrated Library op Wonders has encouragca
the publishers to still further efforts to increase the attractions and value of these admu^abla
boolcs. In the new series, which has just been commenced with Thb Wonders of Water
ihu siie of the volumes is increased, the style of binding changed, and the successive /o!-
umes are edited by distinguished American authors and scientists.
Th* following vohunes will introduce
THE SECOND SERIES.
WONDERS OF ELECTRICITY. Ed-
ited by Dr. J. W. Armstrong, President
of the Stale Normal School, Fredonia,
N. Y. $1.50
WONDERS OF VEGETATION.
(Over 40 Illustrations. ) Edited by Pryf.
ScHELR De Vkre. $1.50
WONDERS OF WATER. (64 Illustra-
tions.) Edited by Prof. Schele De Verb.
WONDERS OF THE MOON. (Witi
50 Illustrations.) Edited, with addiciuns,
by Miss Maria Mitchell, of Vassal
College, Poughkeepsie.
THE WONDERS OF SCULPTURE.
From the French of I^uis Viardot. With
a chapter on American sculpture. With
over sixty illustrations. $^.50
THB RBD CLOTH, ORIGINAL STYLE OF THE FIRST SERIES OF
Reduced from $l.BO per volume to $1.SB per volume,
AND
From $30.00 to $'J5 per set of twenty volumes.
The First Series comprises :
No. lllus.
iVonderful Escapes 26
Bodily Strength and Skill 70
Balloon Ascents 30
Great Hunts 32
Egypt 3,300 Years ago 40
The Sun. By Guillemin 58
Wonders of Heat 93
Optical Wonders 71
Wonders of Acouitics 110
The Heavens 48
Na. lUus.
The Human Body 43
The Sublime in Nature 44
Intelligence of Animals 54
Thunder and Lightning 39
Bottom of the Sea 88
Italian Art al
European Art 11
Architecture 6a
Glass-Making... 63
Wonders of Pompeii M
Take Special Notice.— To get advsnt»)?e of this reduction, be particular to
jpeci/y f\te Ked Cloth Edition in ordering. The price of seta of the first serii^«,
'bonnd in half roan ($30.00, with rack), and that of Bin|;le volumes of the (eooad
iarica($1.50 pi-rvol.^ bound in green cloth, remains onciianged.
SUPPLEMENTARY VOLUMES TO THE FIRST SERIES.
MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES. (30; WONDERS OF ENGRAVING.
lUuslralions.) Edited by Hon. J. T. j Illustrations. ) Translated from the Kre»ci
HiuDLBV. I of Geokces Duflkssis.
Any or all the volume* of the Illustratrf Library of Wonders semt to «J}
tddrcis, post or express charges paid, on receipt of the price.
A Dttcri^lnit Catatogut 0/ thi Wonimir Library, with t/tcimtn Ulmtratim^
ttmt U Mmy ^ddrttt, oh afplicatim.
SoRiBNKR. Armstrong *. Co., 654 Broadway, ^ I
9
THE BRIC-A-BRAC SERIES.
P«raonal Reminisences of Famoua Poets and Novelists, Wits
And Htunorists, Artists, Actors, Musicians, and the like«
^1
" InfiniU richts in a iittU room."
™ii(lcl|il,|BR!ES|
Sf^A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A AAA&'oA A A'A A A A A AAA
4
• |. • I • I • I • I •
MA
mm
EDITED BY
I^H.;5T0DDAI^D.
Now Ready.
Tbe Second Volnme of
this Series.
Anecdote Biograpliies
OF
THACKERAY, DICKENS,
And Others.
JUST PUBLISHED.
PERSONAL REMINISCENCES
BY
Ciorley, PlaDclie»dYonD2
>| ■ 654 Broadway,^_t<0^j|>
a
K
O
C
C w
K n
• Z
o
w
CO
>
>
s
One vol. lamo, beantifolly boond in extra cloth, black and ^It, $LSC.
" No more refreshing volumes could be carried into the country or to the sea-shore, ic
(Hi up the niches of time that intervene between the pleasures of the summer holidays."
— Brston Post.
'•Mr. Stoddard's work appears to be done well nigh perfectly. There is not a duD
pace in the book." — A'. V. Evening Post.
Sent Post-paid, cpon REOtirr of Pxice, bt
»C£IBK£B, AEXSTBOKO & CO., 664 Broadway, New Tork.
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