Lawns, golf courses, polo fields, and how to treat them

ree

7 7 ue 7
Mastin Wert Pads ee
ih § Piers

:~

tt ae

a. iid,

i] 5
< 4 :
, i“ ia} ' 2 | 9

Ve 1) i Ty are at
i i * haan ; at Pie Mien mind tee ae
Th

LM iis : t PY
y ¥ An aa : ne
i uel aah oe an
5 Ma ge My a, +0 i mT a Shes sa hon iL} : d

%

Be
1 ) 1h
ra!
y i
j
i j
‘iy
\
i
f
’ 4
/
iy
i
\
|
|
i)
‘
i
ary
im
ft
ae 1
LGN ee A
fea Twas pay
bhakti
ates ul
if i Ly
t {
1 f r a
i i tif
fil i

i

peel

Tg a ate! Ulan li
We PA a

1a
nee
i
j
5
i
:
'
i
a
bale
t
i
n

Lawns, Golf Courses,
Polo Fields

By S.ACunningham and. George D. Leavens

TheCoe. Mortimer Company
NewYork.

Me
ae,

~ Lawns, Golf Courses, Polo Fields,
and How to Treat Them

By S. A. CUNNINGHAM
Chairman of the Green Committee of the Englewood Golf Club

and

GEORGE D. LEAVENS, B. S.
Formerly of the Department of Fertilizers, Massachusetts Agricultural Experiment Station

Published by
THE COE-MORTIMER COMPANY
New York

Copyright, 1914
The Coe-Mortimer Company, N. Y.

NMW]T GNV JWION) TAT) AYLNAO) S,ANVdWO/;)

TRAN

OFFICE

4914

QOPYRIGH

MAR 28 1914

AUG

Kt
(|

LAWNS, GOLF COURSES, POLO FIELDS,
AND HOW TO TREAT THEM

By
Ss. A. CUNNINGHAM AND GEORGE D. LEAVENS

NTIL the attempt has been made, the
difficulties encountered in making
good lawns, polo fields, or golf greens
are not apparent, although liberal
sums of money are generally expended
for these purposes. There is, however,
such a conflict of opinion and such a
dearth of definite information as to
how desirable results may be obtained,

that it is believed that the writers’
suggestions, based upon many years of practical experience,
may not be unwelcome.

No attempt is made to discuss herein details of engineering
problems in connection with the making of golf courses and
polo fields, other than a few remarks on the subject of drainage.
The details of grading, levelling, tile draining, etc., should all
be arranged by a competent engineer. The writers of this
booklet have confined themselves strictly to matters covered by
their own personal experience, realizing that in so doing they
are certain to remain on safe ground and in all probability
be of much greater assistance to their readers.

3

LAWNS.

A good lawn is the first essential to a beautiful landscape
or to attractive home grounds. The two problems commonly
presented in this connection are: first, the improving or
re-making of an old lawn; second, the making of a new lawn
from the very beginning.

A Goop LAWN MAY BE MAINTAINED IN A SHADED LOCATION IF PROPER GRASS
SEEDS AND FERTILIZERS ARE USED.

Re-Making an Old Lawn.

The first step is to dig out with a very slender trowel
or stout knife, all the weeds that infest the lawn. The best
implement for this is an ordinary asparagus knife or cutter.
Having removed the weeds, go over the old lawn vigorously
with a: sharp toothed iron rake, scratching the earth to a depth
of half an inch or more. Where the old sod is vigorous and
healthy, rake lightly ; but give severe treatment to the bare spots.

A’ sod perforator may be made by driving some good-size
spikes through a piece of plank, and then attaching to this a
handle from an old shovel or manure fork. The spikes should
protrude through the plank three or four inches. By going
over the lawn with this implement, the soil will be opened up

4

<

to receive grass seed, plant food and moisture, and yet no
unsightly disturbance of the surface will be made.

On a large scale (on fair greens and polo fields) the same
or better results are obtained by using a perforating roller, to
which reference will be made later. In case a sod perforator
is used, it should be followed by a vigorous raking, as described
above, and if a quantity of fine or medium fine sand can be
obtained, this may also be raked over the lawn evenly to the
depth of about one-fourth inch.

Next, broadcast The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country
Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of two
and one-half to three pounds to each one hundred square feet
of surface. The fertilizer should be mixed with an equal
quantity of medium to coarse sand. Fine sand may be used
when the soil is naturally coarse and open, but coarse sand is
to be preferred wherever the soil is especially compact and
inclined to cake. The sand should be well raked in.

Grass seed should now be sown, carefully raked in, and
the land thoroughly rolled. Grass seed mixtures for this
purpose are as follows:

First, for use on neutral or alkaline soils where Kentucky
Blue Grass grows well. Such conditions are particularly apt
to prevail in those parts of the country where the soil is
underlaid by limestone deposits. Under such conditions, when
renovating the old lawn, use the following mixture:

Re-cleaned Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis).. 30 lbs.

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)............ 30 Ibs.
Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)........ 20 lbs.
Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)........ 10 lbs.
Wood Meadow Grass (Poa nemoralis)............- 10 lbs.

ANCHE) Aes cid no pocor nt Sr OuOCaane 100 lbs

Apply this mixture at the rate of eighty to one hundred pounds
per acre. (About one-fourth pound per 100 square feet.)

Mixture Numper 2. — Where acid soil conditions prevail,
Kentucky Blue Grass will not thrive, and a different mixture
of grass seeds must therefore be used. Acid soil conditions

i)

‘COOMTIONT LV Nagao) HLENIALHOIY GNV dsAOP]T ANID AH,

age

—

prevail generally throughout most of the Atlantic Seaboard
states, and the following mixtures will be found generally useful:

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)............ 50 Ibs.
Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)....... 25 Ibs.
Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)........ 25 Ibs.

OU carr harna2 sine eile Wants ea 100 Ibs.

“Sow evenly at the rate of 80 to 100 pounds per acre. (About
one-fourth pound per 100 square feet.)

After distributing, the seed should be lightly raked in and
the lawn thoroughly rolled.

Abundant moisture is necessary for the life of any lawn,
and this will be discussed later in the remarks about “watering.”

A second application of fertilizer will be needed about
August first to August tenth. At that time apply The Coe-
Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer,
Brand A, at the rate of two and one-half to three pounds per
hundred square feet. The fertilizer should be mixed with an
equal quantity of sand as previously mentioned.

Making a New Lawn.

If the work is being conducted on a small scale, the ground
should be well spaded up and thoroughly pulverized with a
sharp rake. Then rake to a smooth, level surface and follow
the same general treatment as that described for large areas.

If large areas are to be treated, it may be necessary to
consider carefully the matter of drainage. A competent
engineer should be consulted and such stone drains or tile drains
as may be needed should be put in place. The best time for
making a lawn is from mid-summer to early September and
if the necessary work can be accomplished so that the seed
can be sown about August fifteenth to September tenth, the
grass will get a good start before cold weather.

Frequently however, for special reasons, spring seeding
is necessary and in this case if possible, the land should be
plowed in the fall so that the action of the frost may assist
in pulverizing and conditioning the soil.

t

Whether spring seeding or summer seeding is to be
followed, the general operations necessary for good results
are the same. Stones and stumps, if any, should be removed.
The entire surface should then be broken up by using a cutaway
disc harrow, set at a sharp angle so that it will thoroughly tear
up the old surface growth. This harrowing should be repeated
at intervals of three or four days until all old growth is entirely
killed out and dried up.

The land should then be plowed to a depth of from eight
to ten inches and it is important to see that the plow is equipped
with a coulter so that all old growth may be completely buried.

After plowing, the land should be harrowed with a cutaway
disc harrow. If the land is inclined to bake and cake, coarse
sand should now be applied to a thickness of from one-half
inch to an inch. This sand should be thoroughly worked into
the soil by the subsequent harrowings with the cutaway disc
harrow, and these harrowings should be continued at frequent
intervals, say every four days, until the time of seeding.

The fertilizer should now be broadcasted very evenly.
Use The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of two and one-half to
three pounds per hundred square feet. (On large areas, 1300
to 1500 pounds per acre.) At least two harrowings should
be given after the fertilizer is applied.

The heavy cutaway disc harrow should be followed by a
smoothing harrow and clod crusher or leveler. It is generally
best also, to go over the land with a roller to insure getting
a smooth and level surface. Just before sowing the seed the
surface of the ground should be finally prepared by going
over it once more with a smoothing harrow. The seed should
then be distributed evenly and worked into the soil with an
ordinary weeder or with an ordinary bush harrow. This latter
implement is made by spiking medium sized birch saplings to
a piece of 5x5 or 6x6 timber; but unless one is familiar
with the construction and use of this implement, the weeder
had better be employed.

8

a

The land should now receive a thorough rolling. Roll
in several directions; at right angles, also diagonally. It is
desirable that the soil should be well compacted at this time
in order to re-establish capillary action.

For seeding a new lawn, the following mixtures may be
used. The first mixture given is suitable for use on neutral
or slightly alkaline soils, such as we have previously referred
to. Under these conditions use the following mixture per acre:

Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis).............. 45 lbs.
Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)........ 30 Ibs.
Fancy Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)...... 45 lbs

Totnle per ati: tio: wate waeintiods 120 Ibs.

(A little over one-fourth Ib. per 100 square feet.)
Second, a mixture to be used where acid soil conditions
exist.
Fancy Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)......... 45 lbs.
Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)

POta: Mee arrest oi TE aS tedden ete we oe .120 lbs.
(A little over one-fourth lb. per 100 square feet.)

A third mixture is given for use in shady places.
There are of course some conditions where the shade is so
great that no grass will grow, but under conditions of moderate
shade, the following mixture will generally prove successful.

Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis).............. 35 lbs.
Wood Meadow Grass (Poa nemoralis).............. 35 Ibs.
Crested Dogs’-Tail (Cynosurus cristatus)........... 15 lbs.
Various-Leaved Fescue (Festuca heterophylla)..... 15 lbs.

Total, (Pee Ble Secs e Sec eh ha oles 100 Ibs.

(On small areas use at the rate of one-fourth lb. per
100 square feet.)

Clipping, Rolling and Watering.

A newly seeded lawn should not be clipped the first time
until the grass has made a good growth. Set the blades of
the lawn mower as high as possible. Let the young grass
grow so that the mower set in this way will just clip off the
ends of the leaves.

9

‘VOIUSWY NI SUIOF{[ TION Wag AHL 4oO ANO NOMWSIAY LAOHLIA, ‘COOMAIONGY LV N

After the first clipping the lawn may be clipped closely
with the lawn mower and frequent cuttings will prove beneficial.
If clipped frequently and the grass kept at a height of from
one and one-half to two inches, clippings will be so fine that
it will not be necessary to rake them off. It is particularly
desirable to leave these fine clippings on poor or light soils;
on rich moist soils, the clippings may be removed by having
a grass catcher attached to the lawn mower. This obviates
the necessity of removing the clippings by raking.

During the extreme hot weather of mid-summer, do not
crop the grass too close. Burning of the roots may be in a
measure prevented by allowing the grass to shade itself.

Lawns should be rolled each spring as soon as the excess
of moisture has dried out. A heavy roller is preferable, so
that any grass roots that have been loosened by frost may
be imbedded in the soil. The roller should be used after every
cutting, as its continued use makes a firm and compact sod.

Watering of lawns should preferably be done late in
the afternoon or at night; thus preventing the immediate .-
evaporation of the water by the intense heat from the sun.
Many lawns are seriously injured by frequent small applications
of water. It is much better to give a lawn a thorough soaking
once or twice a week, than to give small waterings daily. Use
plenty of water; sufficient to wet the soil at least three inches
deep.

Fertilizing Lawns After They Are Established.

After a lawn is well established it should be regularly
fertilized with The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club
Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of two and
one-half to three Ibs. per one hundred square feet. (On large
areas at the rate of 1300 lbs. per acre.)

The first application should be made in the spring, as
soon as:the frost is well out of the ground, and the second
application about the 10th of August. The fertilizer should
be mixed with an equal weight of medium coarse sand and
should be distributed very evenly.

Ll

GOVE COURSES:
Putting Greens.

HE preparation of the soil for putting
greens is in general the same as
that described for lawns. Especial
attention, however, should be given
to the matters of draining, grading
and leveling, and finally to very
careful raking.

When seeding down a new putting
green, use from two and one-half to
three lbs. per one hundred square feet

of The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and Lawn

Fertilizer, Brand A, mixed with an equal quantity of fine sand.

This should be raked into the soil shortly before sowing the

seed. A sandy soil is preferable for putting greens, and if

the soil is not naturally sandy, large quantities of sand must
be applied.

It is necessary that the turf on a putting green should
be composed of fine grasses, dense and low and sufficiently
tough to stand the hardest possible use. The grass must be
kept cut short and rolled with a light roller frequently. If
the putting green is seeded in the spring (and it probably
will be), a second application of fertilizer should be made
during the latter part of June. At this time apply one and
one-fourth lbs. per 100 square feet of The Coe-Mortimer
Company’s Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A,
mixed with an equal quantity of fine or medium fine sand as
before.

About the middle of August, still another application of
the same fertilizer should be made at the rate of one and
one-fourth lbs. per one hundred square feet of surface and as
previously described, it is desirable that this fertilizer should
be mixed with an equal quantity of sand.

12

at]

RAD

Seed Mixtures for Putting Greens.

Grasses of a low growing habit, of firm tough texture
and those that will thrive upon acid soils are required for
putting greens. A neutral or alkaline condition of the soil
gives encouragement to the growth of clover which is especially
to be avoided in putting greens, and it should be noted that
the fertilizers recommended for putting greens, while especially

A small force feed grass
seeder made especially for
putting greens and lawns.

(By courtesy of The Excelsior
Drill Co., Springfield, Ohio.)

adapted to encourage the growth of the desirable grasses, are
intended at the same time to discourage the growth of clovers.
Probably the best mixture for putting greens is the following:

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)........ 50 lbs.
Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)........ 50 Ibs.
Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)............ 20 lbs.

NS) PLA Son Re reer OTE oO Goo mm eAriC 120 lbs.

Use this mixture at the rate of 120 lbs. per acre or at
the rate of a little over one-fourth lb. (5 ounces) per one
hundred square feet.

This same grass seed mixture should be used for all
re-seeding. When re-seeding is needed on account of bare
spots or weak growth of grass it should be done early in the
spring; about a week after the first application of fertilizer.
Rake in thoroughly with a fine rake and roll immediately after
with a heavy roller.

13

‘COOMAIONG LV Nagug HLUAOTy IH,

If further re-seeding is necessary and it generally is, in
order to keep the greens up in first class condition, sow the
seed the last week in August or the first week in September.
Fall seeding may be regarded as even more important than
the spring seeding. It should be raked in with a very fine
rake, and the roller should follow immediately.

“Golf Cart” an ex-
tremely useful com-
bination of roller and
cart body.

(By courtesy of The
Excelsior Drill Co.,
Springfield, Ohio.)

General Care of Putting Greens.

In addition to close clipping, frequent rolling and thorough
watering, especial attention is called to the importance of top
dressing the greens at least three times each season as mentioned
above. Never use stable manure of any sort on a putting
green. It is sure to introduce quantities of weed seeds and is
almost certain to kill out the grass in spots. In addition to
this it is extremely unsightly and further injures the playing
qualities of the greens.

The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, is especially adapted for use upon
putting greens and its proper use gives results that are
encouraging and demonstrates that as good greens can be
developed in the United States as in Great Britain.

q Sanding the Greens.

Medium to fine sand should be applied to the depth of
one-fourth inch over the entire surface of the putting greens,
during the latter part of December or early in January. It

15

SSS SSS

a SSS

is desirable to apply this sand after the ground is frozen but
before there has been a fall of snow. Do not apply any soil
or loam as a surface dressing, using clean sand exclusively.

Eradication of Worms.

It is extremely annoying to have the putting greens
disfigured by unsightly worm casts and the playing qualities
of the greens are also impaired by them. To eradicate angle
worms, use The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Worm
Eradicator at the rate of one-half lb. per square yard. The
Worm Eradicator should be applied evenly over the putting
greens and the greens flooded with water. The Worm
Eradicator is most effective when used on a warm damp day.
After the flooding the worms will come to the surface where
they may be raked up, or swept up and removed. One
application of the Worm Eradicator in the spring should
prove sufficient to keep the greens free from worms throughout
the summer.

Unlike many preparations for eradicating worms, our
Country Club Worm Eradicator is not poisonous for human
beings, although hardly pleasant to the taste. It does not
burn the grass plants, even when used in much larger quantities
than recommended above. We have recommended one-half lb.
per square yard of the Country Club Worm Eradicator as
an, economical quantity that will give good results; but as the
Worm Eradicator also enriches the soil and encourages the
growth of the grass, a larger application may at times prove
desirable.

Watering.

Putting greens should never be allowed to burn out in
dry weather. The general remarks concerning watering lawns
apply also to putting greens, except that as the greens are
kept clipped very close, it is necessary to be sure that the ~
waterings penetrate to a good depth. Watering once or twice
a week, thoroughly, and to a good depth is to be preferred
to a light sprinkling every day.

16

—— i a

Fair Greens.

Two problems are commonly presented in regard to fair
greens. First, the improvement of old greens without plowing ;
second, plowing and establishment of new greens.

In renovating old greens, first remove all stones, twigs,
sticks, dead grass, etc., and then go over the greens with a
perforating roller, such as is illustrated herein. If clover is
not objected to in the fair greens, the mechanical condition
of the soil may be greatly improved and at the same time the
land be greatly enriched by broadcasting 1300 Ibs. per acre
of The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and Lawn
Fertilizer, Brand B. This fertilizer is entirely unlike the
Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, as Brand B
encourages’ the growth of clovers as well as the growth of
grasses, while Brand A is suited to the development of grasses
only.

If clover is an objection in the fair greens, broadcast
1300 lbs. per acre of The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country
Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A. This should be
applied after the land has been treated with the spike toothed
roller and following this application the fair greens should be
gone over with a cutaway disc harrow with the discs set
practically straight, so that they may have a slicing action
and not a digging action.

Combination seeder
and weeder. A convenient
implement for seeding fair
greens.

wera wee :

(By courtesy of The Eureka
Mower Company, Utica,
Nz 2)

Follow this with a thorough scarifying, by means of an
ordinary spring tooth weeder and then broadcast evenly one of
the grass seed mixtures given on page 19. After distribut-

17

‘GNQOWOMOVG FHL NI AVM-WIVY HL AO ASMWITD V HLIM “GOOMTIONY IV Fay, WLATIM], AH],

— = Be

ing the grass seed, go over the greens again with the weeder to
thoroughly incorporate the seed, then roll thoroughly with a
heavy roller, which for this purpose should have no spike tooth
attachment.

New Fair Greens.

If new fair greens are to be established, follow the same
general directions as given for the preparation of lawns, but in
seeding down, bear in mind that The Coe-Mortimer Company’s
Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, should be
used when clover is not desired and that the Country Club
Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand B, should be used when clover
is desired. The objection to clover of course is its more or
less slippery character. The advantage claimed for it is that
it remains green and presents an attractive appearance if
clipped close, even through extremely dry weather.

1300 to 1500 Ibs. per acre of one of the above fertilizers
should be well worked into the soil as directed under Preparation
of Lawns. The directions there given for distributing and
working the seed into the soil apply equally well to fair greens.

Grass Seed Mixtures for Fair Greens.

First, a mixture where clover is desired.

Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis)............ 30 lbs.
Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)............ 40 lbs.
Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)........ 10 lbs.
Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)........ 10 lbs.
White Clover (Trifolium repens)...........-.+.+++ 10 lbs.

Total, per Acre.......... eee eee eee eeees 100 Ibs.

Second, a mixture where clover is not desired.

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)............ 40 Ibs.
Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)........ 20 Ibs.
Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)........ 20 Ibs.
Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis).........--. 10 lbs.
Canadian Blue Grass (Poa compressa)...........- 10 lbs.

Potals Per ATE s .e)2. esas fa yes ne 100 Ibs.

Subsequent Care of Fair Greens.

Whether the work in hand is the renovation of old greens
or the making of new greens, 500 lbs. per acre of The Coe-
Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer,
Brand A, or Brand B (as indicated by conditions) should be
applied about the first of ‘September of the first season. Each
subsequent year, 1,000 lbs. per acre of one of the above
fertilizers should be applied in the spring, as soon as the frost
is well out of the ground. The second application in September,
will probably not be required after the first year; though on
the fair greens, if the growth of the grass is insufficient,
indicating lack of plant food, an application of 500 lbs. per
acre of one of the Country Club Fertilizers shouldbe made
about the first of September.

Both spring and fall applications of the fertilizer should
be mixed with an equal weight of medium sand. The grass
should be kept well rolled and clipped during the entire season.

20

yaar“ _ 7“.

2 SE eS
——— == ee
=

POLO FIELDS:

N MAKING a polo field, special em-
phasis should be laid upon drainage,
leveling and grading. A competent
engineer should be employed to make
“assurance doubly sure” concerning
these points. The general directions
given for plowing and fitting the soil
for lawns, apply also to polo fields,
except that in addition to the work
indicated for lawns, sub-soil plowing

is generally desirable for polo fields.

After plowing with the turning plow, follow in the same
furrows with the sub-soil plow; the object being to loosen the
sub-soil without bringing any of it to the surface. In sub-soil
plowing, however, great care must be taken not to disturb any
drains that may have been laid near the surface of the field.

Tue Crus Hovse at tHe Pipinc Rocx Cuivus, Locusr Vautey, L. I.

Special precautions should be observed in harrowing, to
be sure that the ground is finely pulverized and that all old
growth is entirely killed out. Mid-summer seeding, about
August 15th to September Ist is generally preferable, as this

21

gives ample time during the early part of the season for
thorough preparation of the land.

In seeding down a new polo field, apply 1500 lbs. per
acre of The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A. This should be worked into the
soil thoroughly with the cutaway disc harrow and great pains
should be taken to see that the fertilizer is distributed evenly.

The grass seed may be distributed either by hand or by
means of a combination weeder and seeder, such as is illustrated
herein. After the seed has been distributed and thoroughly
worked into the soil, the field should of course be rolled
repeatedly with a heavy roller.

Looxine across THE Porto Fietps ar THE Pip1nc Rock Civs,
Locust Vattey, L. I.

Subsequent treatment of the polo field consists of the
application of 700 Ibs. per acre of Country Club Golf and
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, the last week in June, and the
application of a similar amount of the same fertilizer about
the middle of August. In both cases the fertilizer should be
mixed with an equal weight of medium sand.

Old polo fields should be treated as follows: As soon as
the frost is out of the ground in the spring, apply 1,000 lbs.
per acre of The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf
and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, mixed with an equal quantity

22

of medium sand. The last week in June, apply the same
fertilizer at the rate of 600 Ibs. per acre, mixed with an equal
weight of sand.

When the soil on old polo fields is badly compacted, great
benefit will be derived from the use of the perforating roller,
similar to the one herein illustrated. This serves to perforate

ichorrerrve
*
orm Ohi ‘de. sah, 944, MM

Perforating Roller for Fair Greens, Polo Fields and Lawns. The depth of
perforation is regulated accurately.

(By courtesy of R. W. Whitehurst Company, Norfolk, Va.)

the sod and permits circulation of both air and water in the soil,
and prevents the hard baked and caked condition that is so
objectionable on a good playing field.
Supplementary seeding at the rate of from 60 to 80 lbs.
per acre, of the grass seed mixture mentioned on page 25, will
23

‘GOOMAIONDT LV Nagy HLATAM], AH,

SS Se

Se —E eh

be found helpful, especially on bare and weak spots. Customary
care in regard to replacing sods that have been torn up in
play, and customary frequent rolling should of course receive
careful attention.

About the middle of August apply the same fertilizer
again, at the rate of 600 lbs. per acre mixed with an equal
weight of medium sand. The grass on polo fields should be
cut close and rolled frequently with a heavy roller. Polo fields
in general will be benefited by an application of about one-
fourth inch of fine to medium sand during the latter part of
December or early in January.

Grass Seeds for Polo Fields.

It is absolutely necessary that the turf on a polo field
should be both tough and elastic. It is also necessary that
clover should be excluded, as during dry weather, when the
fields are apt to become hard, clover gives a slippery surface.

The Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A,
recommended above for polo fields is specially made to
discourage the growth of clover.

It is also important to avoid the use of lime on land
intended for polo fields. Quick lime, hydrated lime, carbonate
of lime, wood ashes and ground bone are all objectionable,
because they encourage the growth of clover.

The following combination of grass seeds gives a firm,
tough and elastic sod and these grasses are especially benefited
by the use of the Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer,
Brand A.

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)............ 50 Ibs.
Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)........ 50 lbs
Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)........ 20 Ibs.

PRG eae rv azsiatolatsr a nekonol referers seversioes-© sheik 120 lbs.

This is the correct quantity for one acre and should be
distributed evenly.

25

Eradication of Clover.

In cases where polo fields have become infested with clover,
especially vigorous measures are necessary to discourage its
growth. In such cases we recommend The Coe-Mortimer
Company’s Polo Field Special, to be applied, 1,000 lbs. per
acre early in the spring, as soon as the frost is well out of
the ground and 1,000 lbs. per acre late in August. The fertilizer
should be mixed with an equal weight of sand in both cases
and distributed evenly.

When the Country Club Polo Field Special is used, no
other fertilizer should be employed. Once clover is established,
its eradication is at best a slow process, but by the persistent
use of the Country Club Polo Field Special, the desired effect
will ultimately be obtained.

This fertilizer is so made as to discourage the growth
of clover and at the same time to encourage the growth of
such grasses as Redtop, Rhode Island Bent Grass and Creeping
Bent Grass, all of which will thrive under its application. This
is a very powerful and concentrated fertilizer and special care
should be taken to emphasize the necessity for even distribution.

TURF TENNIS COURTS.

The instructions given for the preparation of lawns and
putting greens apply to the preparation of turf tennis courts.
New courts should receive three lbs. per one hundred square
feet. of The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, prior to seeding. The fertilizer should
be mixed with fine sand and thoroughly worked into the soil.

Later in the season, about the middle of June, apply
The Coe-Mortimer Company’s Country Club Golf and Lawn
Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of one and one-fourth lbs. per
one hundred square feet. Late in August repeat this treatment.

Old turf courts should receive three Ibs. per one hundred
square feet of surface of Country Club Golf and Lawn
Fertilizer, Brand A, as soon as the frost is out of the ground

26

pS

l=

and should receive the same applications in June and in August
as mentioned above. On old courts the spring application
should be mixed with an equal weight of fine sand, as should
the two later applications. Close clipping, frequent rolling
and watering are essential to good courts.

Grass Seed for Turf Tennis Courts.

A fine, close springy turf is the prime essential and under
average conditions is best obtained by using the following
mixture:

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina)........ 40 lbs.
Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera)........ 50 lbs.
Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris)............ 30 lbs.

POtal aces cnet a cba lee as beehe knees weal 120 lbs.

This indicates the quantity to be used for one acre, and
smaller areas should be seeded in the same proportion.

Fertilizers for Lawns, Golf Courses and Polo Fields.

To produce and maintain a fine elastic turf of uniform
color and even texture requires fertilizers made with especial
care. Comparatively few of the lawn fertilizers that have
heretofore been offered have been prepared with due regard
to the special problems presented. Unlike fertilizers for hay,
the fertilizers for lawns must contain plant food in forms
that are not only available to the plants, but also in forms
that extend this available action over a considerable period
of time.

In other words, correctly made lawn fertilizers should feed
the grass plants gradually but constantly. There must be
no intermittent period when the grass plants do not receive
suitable nourishment.

For six years past The Coe-Mortimer Company has been
making Country Club Golf, Lawn and Polo Field Fertilizers
for a select private trade. These fertilizers are made in
accordance with the formule of the Chairman of the Green

27

‘GOOMTIONG LY NAG ONILLOG Lsuly GNV ay, HLNIN JH,

Se Ss

2 — es = ae

Committee of the Englewood Golf Club, Mr. S. A. Cunningham,
who has perfected Country Club brands, after many years of
experimental work.

Associated with Mr. Cunningham in the development and
preparation of these fertilizers, is Mr. George D. Leavens,
formerly of the Massachusetts State Experiment Station and
for over fifteen years a specialist in grass fertilization.

The results from the use of Country Club brands have
been uniformly superior and the demand for them has become
increasingly urgent. They are now offered generally to those
buyers who realize that fertilizers of high quality are absolutely
essential to the growing of good grass.

For many years stable manure was highly regarded as
a lawn dressing. The objections to its use are however, obvious.
When it is used as a top dressing the lawns so treated resemble
a barnyard for several months each year. Large quantities
of weed seeds are introduced by the stable manure and these
weeds can be gotten rid of only at a great expense.

Furthermore many grass plants are frequently smothered
and killed out by small lumps of manure. This results in the
lawn having a spotted or uneven appearance.

Said the late Luke J. Doogue, for many years Superin-
tendent of the Boston Public Grounds Department: “Strange
as it may seem, many good lawns have been ruined by being
given a heavy application of manure year after year.”
Country Club Golf, Lawn and Polo Field Fertilizers are offered
to discriminating buyers as being the highest grade fertilizers
obtainable for the purposes indicated.

Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A.

This special fertilizer is specially manufactured for use
upon lawns, putting greens, polo fields, fair greens and tennis
courts where clover and blue grass are not desired. The same
soil conditions that favor the development of clover also favor
the development of blue grass and while blue grass in itself
may be desirable for certain purposes, it should be constantly
borne in mind that if the soil is so treated as to encourage

29

> —__== 2 SSS = = ———— .

5 tak a
ae 8 eo \

the growth of blue grass, then the risk of encouraging an
abnormal growth of clover will be very great.

Clover seed will lie dormant in the soil for from 25 to 40
years waiting for favorable conditions to cause its germination
and growth. Inasmuch as perfect lawns, polo fields, putting
greens and grass tennis courts can be made without the use
of blue grass or clover, it is apparent that Country Club Golf
and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, possesses a wide range of
usefulness.

It encourages the growth of Redtop, Creeping Bent Grass,
Rhode Island Bent Grass, and all grasses belonging to this
family, feeding them abundantly and continuously, at the same
time discouraging the growth of clover.

Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand B.

This special fertilizer is intended for use upon, lawns and
fair greens where clover and blue grass are desired. It should
never be used upon putting greens or polo fields or upon grass
tennis courts, as the presence of clover in any of these is
always objectionable.

There are, however, occasions when individual taste or
preference call for lawns containing a large amount of fine
white clover. Also there are occasions when clover is desired
in fair greens, particularly on extremely light and dry soils.
Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand B, will
encourage the growth of clover and also encourage the growth
of Kentucky Blue Grass and is intended to! be used only when
these results are desired.

Country Club Polo Field Special.

As indicated above, Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer,
Brand A, is the correct fertilizer to use on polo fields under
normal conditions. In cases where polo fields are already badly
infested with clover, more radical treatment may be necessary.

When polo fields contain a large amount of clover, the
Country Club Polo Field Special Fertilizer should be used.

30

This brand is so made as to act even more vigorously than
the Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, and brings about soil
conditions extremely unfavorable to the growth of clover and
also greatly encourages the growth of the fine and tough
grasses, thus aiding these to choke out the clover.

For special directions for use, see remarks on “‘Eradication
of Clover.”

Country Club Worm Eradicator.

Frequently, common earth worms or “angle worms”
become a decided nuisance in lawns or putting greens. Not
only do the worm casts disfigure the greens, but they also
injure the playing qualities.

To rid greens or lawns of worms, apply Country Club
Worm Eradicator at the rate of one-half pound per square
yard, spreading evenly over the green and then flooding the
green with water. If possible the application should be made
on a warm damp day early in May. The worms will come
to the surface where they may be raked up or swept up and
removed. One application each season is usually sufficient, but
should the worms again become troublesome, a second application
may be made about the middle of September.

Especial attention is called to the fact that Country Club
Worm Eradicator is non-poisonous to human beings, and is
decidedly beneficial to the grass. It has a direct but slow
fertilizing action which adds materially to its value.

It is well to bear in mind that in purchasing Country
Club Golf, Lawn and Polo Field Fertilizers, you are securing
fertilizers that have been thoroughly and repeatedly tested and
have proved their merit by the results that they have given.
All experimental work has been done for you.

Combining as they do, the latest teachings of agricultural
science with long practical experience, these fertilizers cannot
fail to meet with your appreciation and approval.

31

— MB
Pe 1,00.

an

iret:
a ales

i rs

a :
RWS !
e eA \ ws 4 ~~. Q a — 4 2 mae i YAR i ——-~ so
NA le: SRL <a 6 7 im lo, etn Se dk ry, em

00009250785

HINO